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  <row Id="1" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:39:48.853" Score="11" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume the following situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Italy at war with France but not CW. Italian navy is in port in La Spezia, along with one German SUB and a German AA. CW DOWs Italy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the port strike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the Italian units considered surprised if the German SUB is not included in the combat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the German AA fire if the German SUB is not included?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprise rules on naval combat and port strikes say surprise occurs if only units of the surprised major or minor is involved in the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the Italians are surprised, and the Germans aren't - and the Germans decide whether to include the SUB or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a non-included SUB &quot;involved&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T08:44:35.827" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T08:44:35.827" Title="What is considered suprise" Tags="|world-in-flames|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="269" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:40:37.753" Score="7" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Puzzle Strike, the &quot;Pilebunker&quot; chip says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Opponents reveal their hands, trash their largest [Gem chip], then &lt;strike&gt;you&lt;/strike&gt; gain that many [1 Gems chip]s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&#xA;How does this work when trashing 2-Gem, 3-Gem, or 4-Gem chips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specific example: if it's a 2 player game and I play Pilebunker, and my opponent trashes a 4-Gem chip, which do i gain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1-Gem chip, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 1-Gem chips?&#xA;&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; As per @lilserf's answer, I had misread the tile completely.  A full list of tiles can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlingames.com/pages/puzzle-strike-chip-images&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. And here is what the chip &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qbp9E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pilebunker: +1 Chip. Opponents reveal their hands, trash their largest (Gem chip), then gain that many (1 Gems chip)s.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T02:23:53.023" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T02:23:53.023" Title="How does DeGray's Pilebunker chip work when trashing Gems of size 2+?" Tags="|puzzle-strike|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-02-10T16:51:03.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:41:00.827" Score="28" ViewCount="9193" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 epidemic cards in the pile are easy in Pandemic. 5 cards - it is interesting. Our win / lose ratio is about 50% with 5 epidemic cards. But I can't imagine how to play with 6 epidemic cards. Are you just very lucky to win this way, or are there are some strategy secrets I still don't get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw there is a 7th epidemic card in the expansion &quot;On the Brink&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anybody who usually plays (and wins) with 6 or 7 epidemic cards on the pile? What's your secret?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T17:36:45.693" LastActivityDate="2019-08-04T16:20:04.783" Title="Does anybody need the 6th epidemic card in Pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="4" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:41:27.270" Score="37" ViewCount="34831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing board games but often there's not many people around that share my passion. For that reason I'm looking for board games that can be played with just one player. I've discovered Arkham Horror few months ago and I think it's a fabulous game but I was wondering for some time now if there are other good board games that are as good or even better for single person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="14" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T02:36:55.217" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:25:02.853" Title="Good board games for single player" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="23" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:32:11.290" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:41:31.587" Score="23" ViewCount="3843" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt; you choose 10 of the 25 Kingdom cards to play with in a given game, generally at random. Is it possible/advisable to play with less or more sets? I've considered playing with less to make it simpler for new players, and likewise more to add possibilities for players that are already familiar with the card types, but I've never heard of anyone else trying it before. It would throw off the end conditions (one of which is running out of three stacks of Kingdom cards, which is respectively more/less likely in my examples); would it unbalance any other game aspects or lead to problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T18:09:27.407" Title="Playing with less or more than 10 Kingdom card types in Dominion" Tags="|dominion|house-rules|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="6" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="59" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:41:33.630" Score="20" ViewCount="5244" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Dominion, how do you go about organizing all of the various cards and sets while maintaining a priority to getting games started quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditorDisplayName="anon77" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T16:35:54.897" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:35:54.897" Title="What is the best way to keep everything organized and spend less time setting up?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="7" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="471" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:42:23.553" Score="54" ViewCount="17971" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the scoring for fields and cities in &lt;strong&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/strong&gt; varies -- has this changed over the years, or is this a difference between the US and international versions? Are there generally-accepted correct scoring rules for fields and cities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T03:47:06.443" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T00:32:49.893" Title="There seem to be several different scoring systems for fields/cities in Carcassonne -- which is correct?" Tags="|carcassonne|scoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="8" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:42:30.727" Score="15" ViewCount="3881" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, cloister tiles in Carcassonne are often &quot;too lucky&quot;. If you draw a cloister tile in the beginning of the game, it will typically still require an investment of quite a bit of &quot;meeple&quot; time to obtain the full 9 points, which makes it a fair trade-off. However, after about half of the game, it's relatively likely that you can &quot;parachute&quot; a cloister tile in some spot and get 8 or 9 points immediately. This adds a lot of randomness to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What house rules work well to diminish this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:05:14.773" Title="House rules to make the cloister less of a game winning tile in Carcassonne?" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="9" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:42:36.093" Score="114" ViewCount="13638" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife loves board games, but dislikes very competitive games, and is completely uninterested in aggressive &quot;beat up the other guy&quot; games. We recently discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;, where each player works together to try and halt the spread of a number of deadly diseases. We really liked it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other games are there that are cooperative in nature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T22:09:38.493" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T13:10:27.417" Title="What cooperative board games are there that I could safely play with my wife?" Tags="|recommendations|cooperation|" AnswerCount="22" CommentCount="15" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:35:48.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="10" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:43:29.497" Score="15" ViewCount="5556" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion: Alchemy, you can play Possession to &quot;possess&quot; the player to your left and effectively take over his next turn.  What happens if he has a Possession in his hand, and you play it during that possessed turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Example&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Turn order is Alex, then Bob, then Carl)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alex plays Possession.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;He controls Bob's next turn, and plays a Possession from Bob's hand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This means someone will possess Carl on the next turn - but is it Bob, or Alex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T23:48:17.017" Title="If Possession is played while executing another Possession, who takes the next turn?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="11" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="95" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:44:21.643" Score="8" ViewCount="9599" Body="&lt;p&gt;Italy is almost the worst country to start with. But that makes it a nice challenge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your winning strategy with Italy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:12:49.893" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T06:14:50.043" Title="What is a winning strategy for Italy with Diplomacy" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-01-27T23:07:58.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="12" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:44:29.453" Score="30" ViewCount="2685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read in a somewhat old book that castling was to be done as soon as possible, but some of my playing friends don't bother to do it in the opening. What's the modern usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T20:46:29.317" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T13:38:14.983" Title="Is castling still done in the openings in modern chess?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="13" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="62" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:45:09.600" Score="7" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/555/the-princes-of-florence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Princes of Florence&lt;/a&gt;, the bugbear is this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may move his figure backwards&#xA;  on the fame track at any time during&#xA;  the game.  For each space moved&#xA;  backward, the player takes 100 Florin&#xA;  from the bank. (p.10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've seen (and experienced...) a few times is a player sacrificing their chances of victory by spending ludicrous numbers of prestige points to deny other players auctions in the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm trying to find a house rule that will prevent this &quot;taking you with me&quot; behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T03:07:48.897" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T07:21:30.573" Title="House rule to fix vindictive behavior in Princes of Florence" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:45:31.860" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt; has a supported one player option.  I find it doesn't have the same feel.  It's more of a puzzle, but it is still very enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:45:31.860" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="15" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:46:18.893" Score="22" ViewCount="24299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just starting out with Seafarers of Catan—what are the key strategy differences between Settlers of Catan and Seafarers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="2774" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T22:00:06.387" LastActivityDate="2017-06-17T13:36:01.367" Title="What are the key strategy differences between Settlers of Catan and Seafarers? " Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:46:37.957" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can look for games with single-player mode. There are few realy good games with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the best game - &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;has single player game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Race for the Galaxy with an expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34499/race-for-the-galaxy-the-gathering-storm&quot;&gt;&quot;The&#xA;Gathering Storm&quot;&lt;/a&gt; has also single&#xA;player mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt; - designed for 2-5 players, but you still can play alone (because it its cooperative game).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastEditorUserId="842" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T22:28:55.257" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T22:28:55.257" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:46:45.850" Score="14" ViewCount="8136" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Resilient Population&quot; card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take a card from the Infection Discard Pile and remove it from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you play the &quot;Resilient Population&quot; card, what exactly are you allowed to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T15:05:03.570" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T15:05:03.570" Title="Pandemic: &quot;Resilient Population&quot; card" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:46:48.847" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Bob plays Possession, even if he is currently being possessed by Alex, Bob will control Carl's next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This basically means if you are possessing someone, you should &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have them play Possession.  Especially in a 2 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that sometimess you can't avoid playing a Possession - for example if you play a Golem, you might end up being required to play Possession as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:46:48.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="20" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="104" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:47:23.977" Score="10" ViewCount="7305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are bingos added to the basic score of the word and then modified by multipliers or are they added on after the play is scored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="37" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T23:45:44.020" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T03:55:08.527" Title="How are Scrabble Bingo's calculated with regard to word multipliers?" Tags="|scoring|scrabble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3418" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:47:44.927" Score="17" ViewCount="15491" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40398/monopoly-deal-card-game&quot;&gt;Monopoly Deal&lt;/a&gt;, if I'm forced to sell off one of my properties, and that property is part of a complete set with a House on it, what happens to the House?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think it should be discarded, but this came up today and I wasn't sure what the proper ruling was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:58:54.943" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T22:44:05.063" Title="What happens to the House card in Monopoly Deal if I lose my complete set?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="22" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:48:04.380" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's normally a very good idea to castle early, but 'as soon as possible' is not really a correct rule. It depends on a number of factors, including your choice of opening, and your opponent's response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaving your king in the middle of the board is a bad idea. Your pieces can be pinned, you're much more vulnerable, and your rooks can become isolated, trapped on the sidelines. One exception to this rule sometimes arises if you have exchanged queens. Once this happens it is considerably harder to mount a successful direct mid-game assault on the king, and it may sometimes be reasonable in this situation to treat the king as an additional fighting piece, rather than as a delicate thing to hide away on the sidelines and protect at all costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of rare openings where not castling is a valid strategy, but they are unusual. Castling does not occur, or occurs very late, in some variations of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_defense&quot;&gt;French Defense&lt;/a&gt;. See for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://susanpolgar.blogspot.com/2008/10/kramnik-anand-game-8-live.html&quot;&gt;Kramnik-Anand, 2008&lt;/a&gt;. Similar things can happen in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessopening?eco=B46&quot;&gt;Sicilian Taimanov&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedgehog_%28chess%29&quot;&gt;Hedgehog Defense&lt;/a&gt;. Sometimes giving up castling is a valid line for white, as happens for example in some variations of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessopening?eco=C33&quot;&gt;King's Gambit Accepted&lt;/a&gt; such as the King's Bishop's Gambit, where Black checks on h4, and white plays Kf1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1672" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T07:15:06.537" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T07:15:06.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="991" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:48:31.417" Score="10" ViewCount="7426" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis &amp;amp; Allies (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2nd Edition Rules&lt;/a&gt;), is it every a smart move to spend IPCs to research weapons development? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually forego doing any weapons development, but I play with others who spend 5 IPC every turn or who will turn to researching weapons development when their cause looks close to hopeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2011-01-20T16:53:35.997" LastActivityDate="2017-05-28T21:20:37.827" Title="Is it ever a good idea to research weapons development?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="25" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="37" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:48:54.630" Score="18" ViewCount="3060" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to play a Beer card in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3955/bang&quot;&gt;Bang!&lt;/a&gt; even if I am at full life?  Some scenarios where I might want to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't want someone else to &quot;Panic&quot; it from my hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm Suzy Lafayette and I want to empty my hand so I can keep drawing more cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T21:00:07.640" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T10:03:25.530" Title="Can I play a Beer to no effect in Bang?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="26" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:49:13.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/177/advanced-civilization&quot;&gt;Advanced Civilization&lt;/a&gt; just because it can be played mostly cooperative. Unfortunately it is out of print, but you still can get it used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to build a civilization. There can be little conflicts between players, but these can be settled peacefully. The only problem is with the calamities. (Calamities are part of the trading system so you can trade calamities to other players). But most of the time this can be settled too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T03:51:49.117" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T03:51:49.117" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="27" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:49:31.147" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Island is another cooperative game created by the same guy that made Pandemic.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="54" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:49:31.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="28" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:50:32.970" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three versions of the Carcassonne rules; citing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne_%28board_game%29&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the first and second editions of the game, completed cities covering just two tiles scored two points (one per tile) and one extra point for every pennant that resides in the city. This exception is removed from the third edition, in which there is no difference between two-tile cities and cities of larger size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The greatest divergence in scoring rules between the editions of Carcassonne is in scoring for fields. In the first edition, the players with the greatest number of followers adjacent to a city were awarded four points for that city. Thus, followers from different fields contributed to the scoring for a city, and followers on a field may contribute to the scoring for multiple cities. The second edition considered different fields separately — for each field, the players with the greatest number of followers in a field scored three points for each city adjacent to the field, although points were only be scored once for any given city. The third edition removes these exceptions and brings field scoring in line with the scoring of other features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that tournaments will typically use the newest official version of the rules, but for recreational play there is no such thing as &quot;correct&quot; rules. Use whichever version your co-players and you agree on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:50:32.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="29" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:50:56.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me the big strategy for seafarers is to realize that most of the time the islands are not worth it.  If it is very convenient to go for an island then do it, but usually I find that the resources I expend could have been better used elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Though if everyone is following this strategy, then the islands are great because of the free space.  Basically you want everyone else to go for the islands but you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:50:56.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="30" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:51:16.923" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Resilient Population&quot; card lets you remove one city from the discard pile.  If you are afraid you're about to get an Epidemic (or you have just gotten one!) and have the existing discard pile shuffled back onto the top, you can remove the most dangerous city so that there's no risk of an outbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:51:16.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="31" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="191" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:51:42.300" Score="36" ViewCount="2691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner at this great game, and I would like to improve my skills at the game of Go. What resources would you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="2995" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T05:28:02.493" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T02:26:03.117" Title="What do you recommend to learn Go?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-06-24T17:02:52.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="32" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:52:38.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need sheeps and wood to build a ship, so sheep are slightly more important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, most games give extra victory points for the first settlement on a new island. This can be nice, but realise that you will have at least two settlements on a coast, reducing the number of goods for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2017-06-17T13:36:01.367" LastActivityDate="2017-06-17T13:36:01.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:52:45.923" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt; is almost completely cooperative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the players against a Great Old One(GOO) of Cthulhu mythos.  Players need to work together to arm themselves and find clues that will enable them to seal gates that open from other realms.  There is a large number of expansions, but the basic game is very enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the expansions make the game harder and should be avoided until you can regularly beat the GOO in the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/140/is-it-possible-to-play-2-player-2-character-arkham-horror-successfully&quot;&gt;Is it possible to play 2-player, 2-character Arkham Horror successfully?&lt;/a&gt; for a question about the viability of a popular 2 player variant for Arkham Horror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:47:26.167" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="34" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:52:52.570" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group played with six once, and had virtually no problems; at no point were we even worried we might lose. On the other hand, the last two times we played with five cards we lost miserably, so I don't think the sixth card is as big of an upset as you're expecting. I'd recommend just trying it to see how your group does; a lot depends on if you get two epidemics close together and what cities they hit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:52:52.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="35" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="38" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:52:55.353" Score="60" ViewCount="91512" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a monthly game night, my friend interprets the rules to say that if I have a village or city on my road, it reduces the &quot;longest road&quot; length. I interpret the rules as saying that &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; village/city on &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; road does not impact the road length. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the correct interpretation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-22T02:51:21.923" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T23:29:11.763" Title="Do my own villages/cities interrupt my &quot;longest road&quot; in Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="36" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:53:51.560" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think playing with less would be fine.  From the games I've played with there are about 2-5 stacks that never get any buys, and 1-2 that get bought down really fast.  For inexperienced players I think it would be a big plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for experienced players it could change some of the strategy a bit.  The other stacks, even if unbought, can serve as a threat that players may buy those.  For example, if there were multiple reaction cards then the attack cards seem less desirable.  So right there 2-4 stacks may be off-limits on the premise of mutually assured destruction.  However, with no reactions attack cards gain a lot of value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus adding more cards would be bad IMHO for experienced and inexperienced players but for different reasons.  The inexperienced players would be too confused while the experienced players would settle on 'sure fire' strategies with so many other strategies to game against.  A limited selection limits the amount of competing strategies, and hence may reduce the number of spoilers to more entertaining card selections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T06:44:36.740" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T06:44:36.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="37" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:54:48.420" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play a beer card on your turn, even if it has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; play a beer card off-turn if you've taken a lethal hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:54:48.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="38" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:55:15.927" Score="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are correct.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your own cities do not affect your status towards the &quot;Longest Road&quot; You can view the official rules &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/gamerules.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, from pg. 9 (emphasis is mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can break an &lt;strong&gt;opponent’s&lt;/strong&gt; road by building a settlement&#xA;  on an open intersection along his road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 8, in the example, Emily has the longest road card with 7 segments.  She has two houses within those 7 segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4607-longest-road-do-my-own-settlements-interrupt-my-continuous-road&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;answered directly&lt;/a&gt; in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faqs/93&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online FAQ&lt;/a&gt; as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/35/catan-longest-road-clarification/43#43&quot;&gt;pointed out&lt;/a&gt; by @shemmon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T23:48:00.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="40" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:55:31.873" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a Possession turn, it is still Bob's turn - only three things are different than a normal turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alex makes all decisions for Bob&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alex gains all cards Bob would normally gain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any cards trashed are discarded instead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any card text that says &quot;you&quot; still refers to Bob, regardless of the fact that Alex is making the decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So playing a Possession will cause Bob to possess Carl next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:55:31.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="41" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:55:43.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have bad experiences with cloisters. But if they count too heavy, you can rule that an unfinished cloister counts as 0 points in the end. Which makes it harder to spend too much meeple on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible rule is that cloisters must have unique 9 squares, not shared with another cloister.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But use them wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:55:43.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="42" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:56:01.617" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I played and loved &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot;&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/a&gt; for years before Pandemic existed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many cooperative games around now, and some are on my radar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38453/space-alert&quot;&gt;Space Alert&lt;/a&gt; looks cool and I love a couple of the designer's other games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65532/defenders-of-the-realm&quot;&gt;Defenders of the Realm&lt;/a&gt; looks like it takes the lessons learned in co-op gaming and goes back to my beloved fantasy theme, too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:56:01.617" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="43" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="35" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:56:19.073" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;To affect the road length, the village/city must be from another player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it only limits the counting of the road &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; that village/city.  You can count up to the village/city that is not yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, here's a more official 'no:'&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/faq/4607-longest-road-do-my-own-settlements-interrupt-my-continuous-road&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.catan.com/faq/4607-longest-road-do-my-own-settlements-interrupt-my-continuous-road&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="27861" LastEditDate="2019-07-28T23:29:11.763" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T23:29:11.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="44" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:56:28.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option that I've used before is to disallow placing cloister tiles in spots where they are adjacent to more than three existing tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:56:28.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="45" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:56:31.740" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of expansions that reduce the usefulness of cloisters. You don't get the points until all the surrounding squares are filled, which is a safe bet in 'vanilla' Carcassonne, but not such a sure thing with expansions. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21385/carcassonne-the-tower&quot;&gt;The Tower&lt;/a&gt; expansion makes it less attractive to leave meeple on the board for any length of time, because they are sitting ducks for capture by a tower. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38855/carcassonne-catapult&quot;&gt;Catapult&lt;/a&gt; expansion makes it possible to remove Meeple from the board, or replace them with your own. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15158/carcassonne-the-princess-the-dragon&quot;&gt;The Princess and the Dragon&lt;/a&gt; expansion also encourages Monk removal as dragon-food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could ban the 'instant cloister' case, disallowing the dropping of a cloister into a hole for an immediate 9 points. I personally don't find this a huge problem though. You have equivalent 'instant city' and 'instant road' cases. Ultimately, there is quite a lot of luck involved in Carcassonne, by design, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:56:31.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="46" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:56:33.207" Score="56" ViewCount="39313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody always goes for the dark blues in Monopoly (Mayfair and Park Lane in the UK edition), but I'm convinced that the cheaper colour groups offer a better return on investment, partly because you can fully develop them quicker, and partly because you can own more squares, thereby giving you more &quot;hits&quot; and a steadier income. But is there any analysis to support (or refute) this view?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T03:56:19.150" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T18:15:10.287" Title="Which property group colour gives the best ROI , undeveloped or fully developed, in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="47" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="198" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:56:46.030" Score="37" ViewCount="29684" Body="&lt;p&gt;Initial settlement placement in Catan can really affect the outcome of the game.  What strategy do you follow in Settlers of Catan for initial settlement placement.  Does this strategy change if you have first, or last placement?  Also, when playing Seafarers, do you alter your placement strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T23:05:09.797" Title="How do you place your initial settlements in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="48" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="66" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:57:40.113" Score="50" ViewCount="6423" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, how do you overcome bad initial settlement placement?  In a lot of games of Catan I've played, initial settlement placement seems to really make or break the game for a player.  Are there any good strategies for overcoming a weak starting placement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T21:27:26.673" LastActivityDate="2021-03-12T05:34:18.080" Title="In Settlers of Catan, how do you overcome bad initial settlement placement?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="49" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:57:43.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of the Lepanto opening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Spring 1901: Rom - Nap, Nap - Ion&#xA;Fall 1901: Nap - Ion - Tun&#xA;Build F Nap&#xA;Spring 1902: Ion - Eme, Nap - Ion&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting up a fall 1902 convoy into the heart of Turkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main weakness is that this leaves your defenses entirely the responsibility of your northern army, and so requires that you use diplomacy to keep your neighbors from attacking you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:57:43.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="50" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:58:05.640" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Dominion setup much faster than many (most?) board games, but generally we have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person who pulls out the gold and VPs and deals out the starting hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person that chooses the kingdom types (there's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dominion-kingdom-deck/id350024780?mt=8&quot;&gt;iPhone app&lt;/a&gt; that will make a random selection for you, which probably saves a lot of time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person that pulls out the types as they're read off the iPhone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes maybe three minutes and we're ready to go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:58:05.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="52" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:59:49.533" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never had this experience with Carcassonne either - typically in our games it's more likely that a late-game cloister will be wasted because the player doesn't have the meeples to spare for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even an 8-point late game cloister will be outpaced by a decent sized field, and it will tie up that meeple too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factor that can affect this is experience of the players - experienced folks are wary of creating an easy 9-point-parachute-cloister spot on the board and will avoid it if they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T04:07:35.663" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T04:07:35.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="53" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-19T20:59:52.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recent Castle Ravenloft boardgame has a few scenarios for a single player that are quite fun to play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T20:59:52.590" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="54" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:00:40.820" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing that cloisters can have this effect is half the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than adding a house rule to a very popular game I would advise you to alter your strategy a bit to account for future cloisters that you may not control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave a good cloister spot next to an open road that you own.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When considering placing a tile between two relatively equal spots determine if one or the other creates a better cloister opportunity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep track of how many have been played!  If you get down to 10 tiles left and 4 of them are cloisters, make sure you have the meeples available to use them.  Alternatively, keep your opponent from freeing his meeples from the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:00:40.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="55" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="58" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:00:50.573" Score="27" ViewCount="4409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Power Grid once so far. What is a good beginner's strategy in the initial accumulation of power plants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T20:05:01.270" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T21:07:20.740" Title="Power plants in Power Grid" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="56" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2551" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:02:25.097" Score="4" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drunter_und_Dr%C3%BCber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drunter und Drüber&lt;/a&gt; a tile that covers a toilet must be voted on by all players. The rules say that the tile is placed if the yes votes exceed the no votes, and the tile is not places if the no votes exceed the yes votes.  But what if the votes are equal?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ruled that in that case the tile is not placed, but the rules are not clear on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T23:36:16.143" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T23:36:16.143" Title="Can a toilet be covered if the votes are tied in Drunter und Drüber?" Tags="|drunter-und-druber|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="58" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:04:25.173" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some mix of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy the biggest one you can afford  - &lt;em&gt;Remembering that you have to afford fuel as well.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to get a plant that has dual fuel sources&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't buy a coal only plant if 2 other people already have coal fired plants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't get into bidding wars with more experienced players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above isn't working out, switch tactics - save your money and get the cheapest one you can this turn and get a better plant next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T16:43:50.873" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T16:43:50.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="59" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:05:12.940" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For card selection, I highly recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/idominion/id351815216?mt=8&quot;&gt;iDominion iPhone app&lt;/a&gt;.  Lets you specify which sets to include, blacklist individual cards, require Reactions if there are Attacks, and even re-roll one card of the 10 if you just hate the Smithy.  There's also a &quot;lite&quot; free version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have all of my cards (Dominion, Intrigue, Seaside, and Alchemy) in two collectible-card-game &quot;long boxes&quot;, sorted by set and by name.  (Mine are sleeved as well, but that's not required).  Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/44521/dominion-tabbed-dividers-for-trading-card-box-stor&quot;&gt;one of the many dividers&lt;/a&gt; on BoardGameGeek to assist in locating cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easy to have one person take each box and pull out the cards you need, and for others to chip in parceling out the gold, VPs and starting decks as they're pulled from the boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can divide up the work this way with the original boxes, but card boxes take up a LOT less table space and the ordering of cards in the original boxes can be highly confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T18:03:33.117" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T18:03:33.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="60" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:05:16.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very hard to say really. It depends on so many factors. The best strategy is to have the power plants that use the resources that your competitors do not use. This then makes the cost of goods cheap to buy, and therefore cheap to fire up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:05:16.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="61" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:05:18.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not waste your money on plants up to plant number 13, you'll ned to change them soon. Later ones are better. And also you don't have many cities at the begining. Later I'm trying to get plants which could electrify as many cities as possible. These plants waste a lot of resources, but you will not need to change them until the end of game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastEditorUserId="6483" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T21:07:20.740" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T21:07:20.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="62" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:08:16.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative to a house rule is often a good defensive strategy. In this case: try to create a situation where multiple of the auction options would be acceptable; if all the other players bankrupt themselves to outbid you, you win! I believe this is really the essence of the game: to manoeuvre yourself into a position where there is nothing that you &lt;strong&gt;absolutely need&lt;/strong&gt; in order to do OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:08:16.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="63" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:09:16.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/35677/le-havre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Le Havre&lt;/a&gt; has an enjoyable one player experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game involves managing many goods while buying up valuable businesses with an eventual goal of having a shipping empire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:09:16.420" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="64" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:09:47.213" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://playgo.to/iwtg/&quot;&gt;The interactive way to Go&lt;/a&gt;. It is only rudiments, but helpful at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:09:47.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="65" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="568" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:09:49.617" Score="26" ViewCount="9637" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40692/small-world&quot;&gt;Small World&lt;/a&gt;, the only combination we've encountered that we consider &quot;broken&quot; in any way is Merchant Elves - the Merchant property doubles the value of every occupied area, while the immortality of the Elves means that eliminating that race becomes impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially deadly is the situation where Merchant Elves are taken by a player who put his first race into decline early. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found a counter for this (admittedly rare) problem in Small World?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T16:53:24.583" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T04:03:48.133" Title="How can I counter Merchant Elves?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="66" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:09:50.243" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main thing you need to do is correctly identify your strengths and weaknesses, and don't try to force a strategy you're not set up for.  If you don't have abundant brick and wood, don't even bother going for Longest Road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the worst placement will have some resources they are rich in.  Try to get a port that capitalizes on your resources, and make the necessary trades with other players to get the resources you're poor in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're rich in...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brick or Wood -- try for longest road and build plenty of settlements&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Grain or Ore -- upgrade your starting settlements to cities and buy development cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sheep -- go for Largest Army via development cards, or depending on your next best resource, you'll probably follow one of the other two basic strategies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course even with all of this, sometimes the dice just won't drop your way :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="186" LastEditDate="2011-11-24T03:01:46.380" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T03:01:46.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="68" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:10:42.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, the big benefit of playing Seafarers is the diversity of maps, and the ability to play random maps.  I find the default random map is a little sparse on land, but this only makes you think harder on where you want to build.  These new maps open up new strategies, and change the dynamic of land settlement from being contained on a single land mass.  Depending on the map and the starting positions, you could want to focus on boats or completely ignore them.  As said above, you might want to strike out visit new land in order to get more victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what scenario your playing, and what the map looks like, changes how you play.  Seafarers games take longer, but if your playing random maps, it makes each new game different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the discovery map, where you never know what tile your uncover next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:10:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="69" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:10:43.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could borrow the &quot;Abbey&quot; idea from the Abbyes and Mayors expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abbeys are special tiles (6 of them divided equally among all players) which you can play rather than drawing and playing a random tile. The abbey counts as a cloister for scoring and playing a meeple on, and has a solid edge, so that it ends a road, and walls off citys and farms that it borders. Abbeys can only be played in holes - spaces that have tiles on all four sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of this is that areas that are prime &quot;gotcha&quot; cloister locations at end game are a little less likely as they either get Abbeys dropped into them, or players shy away from letting such places appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without Abbeys and Mayors, you could allow each player once or twice a game, the option of playing a tile face down in a whole rather as an Abbey than as a normal play, and otherwise following the normal Abbey rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:10:43.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="71" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:13:39.703" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/823/lord-of-the-rings&quot;&gt;The Lord of the Rings&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative board game that I like. The one thing to watch out for (as with many other cooperative games) is that a few enthusiasts take over the whole running of the game, and others just passively do as they are told.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has an extension that converts it to a one-against-many game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/3819/lord-of-the-rings-sauron&quot;&gt;Lord of the Rings: Sauron&lt;/a&gt;. So don't get that extension if you're looking for the cooperative experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T21:34:28.497" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:34:28.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="72" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:14:49.700" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're playing with 3 or 4 players, use the 1-2-3-4-5-6-6 strategy. That is, first power plant should power 1 city, second 2, etc. Then you'll grow your capacity in a measured pace, and you'll end up with a capacity of exactly 17. A bad strategy would be: 1-1-3-4-4-5-... because that will make it very hard to reach 17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, by not buying top-of-the-line power plants, you'll probably never be in first place and having to pay most for fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T10:32:26.720" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T10:32:26.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="73" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:15:18.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of it will depend on your long term strategy; buying a low power plant puts you up first for the cheap resources and the prime places on the board. While more expensive and efficient power plants can give you a leg up in accumulating cash early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I prefer to start with a relatively inexpensive power plant (as low and cheap as feasible - never more than 2x than the initial value is my rule of thumb to start out) until I've seen the board locations and then focus on keeping my power plants close to the number of cities I actually own. With the auction system don't be afraid to let one go if it gets too expensive - the green power plants can be a real bonus if you aren't paying an arm and a leg for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:15:18.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="74" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="90" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:16:52.377" Score="24" ViewCount="7934" Body="&lt;p&gt;What Major Improvements do you see as most useful in Agricola, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T01:37:19.650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T09:29:00.450" Title="What are the most useful Major Improvements in Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="75" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="85" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:17:09.413" Score="15" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34635/stone-age&quot;&gt;Stone Age&lt;/a&gt; is one of my personal favourite games. The game dynamics are excellent and requires plenty of skill and strategy to win, with the only exception of the dice roll when determining resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone modified the rules to make the game less dependant on the luck of the dice? I find it a shame to lose a game due to luck, rather than skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-07-29T19:06:19.210" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T19:53:28.013" Title="Removing the Luck from Stone Age" Tags="|house-rules|luck|stone-age|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="76" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:17:25.707" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your initial placement is bad, hopefully you can still build a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first couple road placements are critical.  By then you should be able to figure out which commodities are in short supply &lt;strong&gt;this game&lt;/strong&gt;.  Either because they haven't been rolled yet, or they're sitting on a 3 and an 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use your first two roads to build for that scare resource, claim it, and then see who will overtrade you for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:17:25.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="77" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="125" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:18:23.327" Score="9" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two- and three-player Citadels, if I have Bishop, am I always protected from the Warlord?  Or, am I only protected if my second character is the Bishop (i.e. I was most recently the Bishop during the Warlord's turn)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T15:16:50.573" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T15:16:50.573" Title="In two- and three-player Citadels, how does the Bishop's ability work?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="78" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="361" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:20:04.163" Score="23" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good book about the history of board games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably the book would cover all the way from the ancient games to the newest fads in the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T15:47:48.330" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T17:24:33.837" Title="History of board games" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-02-09T19:32:55.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="79" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:20:11.557" Score="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the best three property groups are light blue (Angel Islington, Euston Road, Pentonville Road), orange (Bow Street, Marlborough Street, Vine Street), and dark blue (Park Lane, Mayfair). Light blue is good because the buildings are very cheap but give excellent returns. Orange is good because the likelihood of landing there is substantially higher, due to forced starting from Jail (gets you on a 6, 8 or 9). Finally, the dark blues are a good choice because &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; someone will draw the &lt;code&gt;Advance to Mayfair&lt;/code&gt; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a much more &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tkcs-collins.com/truman/monopoly/monopoly.shtml&quot;&gt;detailed analysis here&lt;/a&gt;. The names are from the American set, but the calculations are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:20:11.557" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="80" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:20:34.147" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my rankings of the Major Improvements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fireplace&lt;/strong&gt; (2 clay): Hands down, the best Major Improvement.  The person who gets this has an easy food engine.  In most cases it will take 2 actions for someone else to get into the action giving you time to collect your sheep.  You also are first in line to get a cheap cooking hearth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Well&lt;/strong&gt;: 4 resources for 4 victory points, and it comes with food! This should be taken every game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooking Hearth&lt;/strong&gt;: The default food engine of the game.  No matter what you have, you can probably produce food with a Cooking Hearth.  You should try to get one of these unless your minor improvements grant you a decent food engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clay Oven&lt;/strong&gt;: Overrated by many, still 5 food for one grain is hard to ignore!  Takes a lot of actions to get up and running, but will then produce a lot of food.  In 2-3 player games coming up with stone can be an issue.  With 4-5, the one sow/bake action can be problematic to obtain when you need it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fireplace&lt;/strong&gt; (3 clay): Less important than the 2 clay version.  Paying extra to be the second person in a food engine isn't great.  Better to get the extra clay and go straight to a Cooking Hearth in most cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stone Oven&lt;/strong&gt;: The victory points are the main thing here.  Taken late in many games for the VP and the free bake action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basketmaker's Workshop&lt;/strong&gt;: Collecting all the reed can deny other players house expansion, buying this gives you something to do with all the reed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pottery&lt;/strong&gt;: With the right minors you can make something of this, otherwise it is just 2 VPs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Joinery&lt;/strong&gt;: It isn't too many games that you have much extra wood.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T18:12:59.303" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:12:59.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="81" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:21:09.340" Score="20" ViewCount="39962" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard game Werewolf, has just a few roles: Citizen, Werewolf, Witch, Cupid, Hunter, Seer, Thief.  I know there are lots of other roles created. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which roles do you use and what is the impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Default Roles&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Citizen&lt;/strong&gt;, cast a vote during the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wolf&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;citizen&lt;/em&gt;, knows other &lt;em&gt;wolves&lt;/em&gt;, chose each night a victim to eliminate from the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Witch&lt;/strong&gt;, has two potions, each night the witch knows the victim of the &lt;em&gt;wolves&lt;/em&gt;. She has one potion to save a victim and one to poison another player (hopefully a werewolf).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cupid&lt;/strong&gt;, choses two players the first night. These are the lovers. The lovers know each other and they have to survive together. If one dies the other dies too. If a &lt;em&gt;werewolf&lt;/em&gt; and a &lt;em&gt;citizen&lt;/em&gt; are lovers, they have to kill the others to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hunter&lt;/strong&gt;, if the hunter dies, he choses another player to die with him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seer&lt;/strong&gt;, the seer can query a players role each night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Other roles&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Executer&lt;/strong&gt;, during the voting, the executer can present himself and execute another player. Voting continues afterwards. The executer can execute only once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Priest&lt;/strong&gt;, if the votes are counted, the priest can present himself and use holy water on the victim. If it is a &lt;em&gt;werewolf&lt;/em&gt; or the &lt;em&gt;witch&lt;/em&gt; the victim dies, else the victim lives. Priests can have one or more bottles of holy water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Guardian Angel&lt;/strong&gt;, each night a guardian angel can protect a player. This player cannot be eaten by the &lt;em&gt;werewolves&lt;/em&gt;. The guardian angel cannot protect himself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;*&lt;em&gt;Alpha Werewolf *&lt;/em&gt;, this &lt;em&gt;werewolf&lt;/em&gt;, can select another player to become a werewolf. This can happen only once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soul mates&lt;/strong&gt;, soul mates are &lt;em&gt;citizens&lt;/em&gt; that know each other. They can't become werewolves, if the &lt;em&gt;Alpha werewolf&lt;/em&gt; tries to convert a soul mate, the attempt is failed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T07:31:09.020" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T07:31:09.020" Title="What extra roles have you used with Werewolves?" Tags="|house-rules|werewolf|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-06-30T21:29:12.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="82" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:21:22.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're a little more flexible on the definition of 'board game', the recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=118&amp;amp;enmi=Death%20Angel&quot;&gt;Space Hulk card game&lt;/a&gt; is fast-paced and easy to learn, while being completely cooperative (players VS the deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:21:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="84" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:21:59.293" Score="8" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are &quot;Implied Odds&quot; in Texas Hold'em Poker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditorUserId="2175" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T18:09:22.903" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T15:45:45.250" Title="What are &quot;Implied Odds&quot; in Texas Hold'em Poker?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="85" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="75" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:22:00.073" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, visit the Tool Hut.  Tools are explicitly there to negate the luck factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to get more people.  There will still be luck in the rolls, but if you put two people on a space instead of one, you'll produce more each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:22:00.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="86" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="94" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:22:46.637" Score="16" ViewCount="7361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a chess beginner, and I was wondering: why was this movement introduced to chess, and why is it important to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T20:42:05.107" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T12:08:14.260" Title="What's the name of the move where the player swaps King and Rook/Castle in Chess? Why is this move important?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="87" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:22:57.807" Score="6" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is &quot;Pot Odds&quot; in Poker Texas Hold'em?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T13:15:04.000" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T13:15:04.000" Title="What is “Pot Odds” in Poker Texas Hold'em?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="88" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:23:17.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably won't break the game to tweak the number of Kingdom cards if that's really what you want to do, but that magic number of 10 was presumably arrived at after a lot of playtesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find that beginners have an easier time if you play some of the recommended sets or play with the simpler cards (many of the base Dominion cards fill this bill).  Another way to cater to beginners is to &quot;draft&quot; the set of Kingdom cards by letting each player select a pile from the 25 in turn.  That way each player is familiar with a few piles at least, since they selected them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For advanced players, drafting the set is also a great way to liven things up because they'll choose cards that synergize well and are generally powerful.  The other way I like to enliven the game for advanced players is to increase the card pool by mixing more expansions in.  Selecting from the nearly 100 cards in the first 4 sets will basically always give you new combinations that are ripe for experimentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with 6 advanced players and 4 or 5 sets worth of cards is quite a cutthroat, enjoyable experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:23:17.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="89" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:23:41.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not a direct answer, check out the recent &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1932442960&quot;&gt;Hobby Games, the 100 best&lt;/a&gt;&quot; book.  It has games from the last 100 years and there is a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of history contained within its page.  Each entry is written by a game designer as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoyed the book very much, learned a ton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:23:41.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="90" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:23:59.240" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a grain-based strategy the Clay Oven is key. It's incredibly efficient (1 grain-&gt; 5 food), and crucially, requires only one stone, so you can get it early (guaranteed before the second harvest). In most of my Agricola games, one player will take the fireplace/animal eating option, and the other will go for a grain/baking option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other key improvement is the Well. The in-game effect (5 food) is marginal, but the 4 points at the end make a huge difference, and are great value (often equivalent to renovating your entire house, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T01:33:29.983" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T01:33:29.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="91" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:24:14.980" Score="7" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are &lt;em&gt;Outs&lt;/em&gt; in &lt;strong&gt;Texas Hold'em Poker&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T18:11:46.980" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T02:57:22.960" Title="What are “Outs” in Texas Hold'em Poker?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="92" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="260" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:24:56.303" Score="22" ViewCount="12210" Body="&lt;p&gt;My local gaming group has been playing the heck out of &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=18&amp;amp;esem=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/a&gt; for some time now.  Are there any other board games that can be recommended that have a similar theme, or similar mechanics?  Obviously, we're not talking about clones or rip-offs here, but games that embody the &quot;Everyone's in it together except for 1 or 2 who are out to get you.  You better find out who they are!&quot; theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T13:25:37.723" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T05:12:50.493" Title="Games with features like Battlestar Galactica's &quot;Traitor&quot; Mechanic?" Tags="|recommendations|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:21:00.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="93" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:24:57.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called &quot;castling&quot;.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castling#History&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; has information about the origins of the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The move is important to build a fortress for your king, and to free the rook for attacking the enemy king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T17:25:48.967" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T17:25:48.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="94" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:25:26.880" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;castling&lt;/a&gt;. It's important because it gets your king out of danger (the centre is not safe), while simultaneously moving your 'tower' (also called a Castle, or a Rook) into the centre, where it is much more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this related question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12/is-castling-still-done-in-the-openings-in-modern-chess&quot;&gt;Is castling still done in the openings in modern chess?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:25:26.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="95" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:25:42.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Diplomacy Archive has a large number of strategies for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/strategy/italy.htm&quot;&gt;Italy&lt;/a&gt; and all &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/strategy.htm&quot;&gt;the other countries&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/articles_by_allan.htm&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; articles by Allan B. Calhamer (the inventor of Diplomacy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:25:42.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="97" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:26:41.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of the move is castling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The history of the move is explained well on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:26:41.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="98" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:27:14.007" Score="8" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is &quot;ICM&quot; in Poker Texas Hold'em?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know some mathematical equations in answers on this question, because this part is important for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditorDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T13:19:29.643" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T17:26:19.007" Title="Poker Texas Hold'em Sit-and-Go - Independent Chip Model (ICM)" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="99" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="87" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:27:26.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pot Odds is a term that describes the ratio of the current bet to the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, consider if the pot is $100 and you need to make a $10 bet to stay in.  Your hand is a dog, and you estimate only a 20% chance for you to win.  Pot odds would say that you should make the bet as you are getting 10-1 on your $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get more information from the Wikipedia entry on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_odds&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pot Odds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:27:26.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:29:55.730" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually don't believe you can play a beer if you cannot take the effect just as you could not play a panic if both players next to you had an appaloosa.  By my reading of the rules the only way to willingly discard a card is to have more cards than your hand limit at the end of your turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Kevin is correct that you may only play a beer out of turn on a lethal hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:29:55.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:30:35.980" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend you check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/a&gt; it was the first game I played with a traitor mechanic. It's a cooperative boardgame with (obviously) an Arthurian theme, and if I remember correctly, a traitor is &lt;strong&gt;possible&lt;/strong&gt; in each game, not &lt;strong&gt;mandatory&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you get &quot;Is there a traitor?&quot; questions instead of just &quot;Which one is the traitor?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:30:35.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:30:48.447" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/scrabble/en_US/scoringRules.cfm&quot;&gt;Hasbro's rulesheet&lt;/a&gt; the fifty point bonus is added to the word score after all the letter and word multipliers have been taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:30:48.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:30:58.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those types of games are normally called &quot;uninformed majority games&quot;; one game I quite like that's in that class is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafia_(party_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mafia&lt;/a&gt; (Werewolf, Assassins, etc.). The base game is pretty much as simple as uninformed majority games get; every night the mafia players choose someone to eliminate, and every day the townspeople try to figure out who the mafia players are. Mafia is entertaining mostly because there are dozens of extra roles and house rules people have added that can be played in ridiculous numbers of combinations, so you can almost certainly find something that your particular group enjoys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:30:58.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="115" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:32:22.247" Score="14" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/treehouse.html&quot;&gt;Icehouse game system&lt;/a&gt; has caught my eye.  I've looked through a ton of rules on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/&quot;&gt;Icehouse Wiki&lt;/a&gt; but haven't found any really engaging game for two players.  What well designed Icehouse games are available for two people? The amount of stashes is not really and issue for me.  I'm looking for games that flow well, are not too complex, and are enjoyable for two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T17:14:08.570" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T17:14:08.570" Title="What well designed Icehouse games are available for two people?" Tags="|recommendations|icehouse|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-08-20T17:14:18.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:33:43.087" Score="6" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;How important is Bankroll Management in Texas Hold'em Poker, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditorUserId="2175" LastEditorDisplayName="Svisstack" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T19:21:40.663" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:21:40.663" Title="How important is Bankroll Management in Texas Hold'em Poker, and why?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:34:52.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Outs&quot; are the cards left in the deck that could possibly make you win.  Usually these are discussed most when players are all-in and the cards have been revealed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the only way you can win is to draw one of the 3 Aces left in the deck, you have 3 Outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:34:52.640" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="127" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:36:53.153" Score="12" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the key differences between the Steam and Age of Steam games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-29T19:51:53.063" LastActivityDate="2012-07-29T19:51:53.063" Title="Differences between Steam and Age of Steam?" Tags="|steam|railroad|age-of-steam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:37:24.107" Score="21" ViewCount="171554" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general what do you recommend at the beginning of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T04:34:52.957" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T11:11:21.880" Title="What are some good tactics for the early game in Risk?" Tags="|risk|tactics|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-29T13:28:28.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="120" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:37:32.233" Score="75" ViewCount="4047" Body="&lt;p&gt;A generic question across most board games: once a player has taken their turn (taken their finger off the piece they are playing), should they be allowed to change their mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if a player forgets to take a privilege, such as an occupied building in Puerto Rico giving an extra worker, or plantation, if they remember a few moves later, should they be allowed to take the privilege?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very few rules explicitly express how these events should be dealt with, so they are generally left up to the group. However, my group's rules will change depending on the personality of the players playing (not all members are available each time we play). I would like to make this consistent, and would appreciate feedback on how others deal with this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:57:41.403" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T13:10:12.143" Title="Taking back turns, and forgotten privileges" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-01-12T08:57:52.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:39:27.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite 2-player Icehouse game is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13084/volcano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volcano&lt;/a&gt;, you need to print out one sheet of paper with the &quot;board&quot; (though you could still play without it), rules are simple but the game is quite deep in strategy. The game requires 6 stashes of different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T11:24:11.747" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T11:24:11.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:39:40.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the game is friendly, taking back a turn shouldn't be a problem. With competition, it is and it should be communicated to all players in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:39:40.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:41:12.050" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another good cooperative game might be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37046/ghost-stories&quot;&gt;Ghost Stories&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ghost Stories is a cooperative game in which the players try to defeat the spirit of Wu-Feng, the lord of hell, and his legions of ghosts before they haunt a town and recover the ashes that will allow him to return to life. Each Player represents a taoist monk ghost hunter who is working together with the others to fight off waves of spirits and other beings mostly inspired by eastern mythology.Blockquote&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:41:12.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:41:37.170" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can grab a continent, go for it. But don't forget about the other parts of the map. Too often players focus on the easy continents and ignore the harder ones, allowing an easy win for another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:41:37.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:42:43.983" Score="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If no new information has been disclosed since a decision, then a player is allowed to take back any action or inaction where this is practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information could be cards in a deck, rolls of dice, but also intentions of a fellow player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:42:43.983" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:43:29.013" Score="22" ViewCount="3547" Body="&lt;p&gt;How I can become a full- or part-time professional developing games? Are there specific courses? What specific knowledge should I be looking to learn? How do I enter the industry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T22:48:02.900" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T22:48:02.900" Title="How do I become a professional game designer?" Tags="|game-development|professional|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-10-22T13:28:35.793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="143" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:43:31.977" Score="67" ViewCount="5525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several of my gaming friends are victim to more or less chronic &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Analysis_paralysis#Board_games&quot;&gt;analysis paralysis&lt;/a&gt;, which can drag down even the simplest of games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've occasionally used an hourglass to combat this, but it tends to aggravate the slow-playing contestants and doesn't work well in interactive games (such as when trading in Settlers of Catan). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of countermeasures to this common issue you have found to be effective? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T00:32:21.440" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T21:28:06.633" Title="Countermeasures to &quot;analysis paralysis&quot;?" Tags="|play-time|" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:44:24.360" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty lenient in general.  Unless it is a tournament or something akin to it, denying someone their privilege may result in hard feelings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception is if another person made a move that would have been different if the privilege had been taken. To use your example, in Puerto Rico, if a person used the builder and forgot to deduct $1 a went to take it back a bit later I would disallow it if another players pipes up with, &quot;I looked at the start of my turn, you had no money.  Based on that I chose to XXXX&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, its too late, and the first person is stuck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:44:24.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:44:37.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We generally have very friendly games, but it of course depends on your particular group. Our games tend to be so uncompetitive that we'll ask each other for advice and reveal our hands if we're trying to make a decision on our turns; it's more of trying to find the optimal move as a group. So generally as long as we can rollback enough to figure out how the game would play up to that point with the modification, it's ok. If something significant has happened since then that wouldn't have happened with the change, or if something has happened since then that &lt;em&gt;prompted&lt;/em&gt; the change (which would be rather rude), we generally won't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:44:37.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="77" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:44:43.450" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two and three player citadels each player still only has one city so the protection of the bishop will protect it no matter your other character.  Your two characters do not directly interact, you simply get two turns and the perks for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you draw both the assassin and the bishop, the murder by the assassin is not undone by the bishops turn.  If you draw the bishop and the merchant, the protection of the bishop is not undone by the merchant turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:44:43.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:44:47.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends heavily on the complexity of the game - I'd generally allow a lot more take backs in ASL (Advanced Squad Leader) or WiF (World in Flames) than in chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="22346" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T13:10:12.143" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T13:10:12.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="112" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:45:04.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're referring to the &quot;standard&quot; version of Steam, the two major differences from Age of Steam are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split income and VP tracks. When delivering goods, you must choose where your points go, either to an income track (that goes from -10 to +10) or to your victory point track. Early in the game, you'd usually concentrate on income to grow your business, then at some point switch to VPs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no board with randomized upcoming goods for each city and therefore no &quot;production&quot; action. Instead, 12 sets of 3 goods are available for use with the new &quot;city growth&quot; action or when you place down a new city tile while &quot;urbanizing&quot;. A startup city can only get one new set of goods with city growth, and urbanized cities cannot get another set after being placed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller rule changes include tile costs, tile distribution, no income reduction, loco is not allowed if you're on 6 already, final scoring for tracks is 1 VP per &lt;em&gt;link&lt;/em&gt;, and when shipping you can't give more points to any other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/381942/steam-a-review-and-comparison-to-age-of-steam-3rd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great review&lt;/a&gt; contains a more detailed list of differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T22:42:51.240" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:42:51.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:46:01.890" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hum the Jeopardy tune once you feel someone has gone too far!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, it works :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:46:01.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:47:11.463" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually game with my family and friends. And we generally have a &quot;one takeback&quot; rule in effect, especially our first few times through a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone will make a bad decision, or miss out on a privilege, and will ask, &quot;Can that be my takeback?&quot; and if everyone agrees that they could and / or should have made the other play and it doesn't impact what's happened since, we generally let them change it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way, everybody gets one during a game. It's not usually disruptive (because of the limited number) and nobody feels like people who make bad decisions are rewarded with endless do-overs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is predicated on the idea that you're playing for fun and want to stay friends with everybody after the game is over. And when we're really playing hard, we'll announce before the game starts that there will be no takebacks and players will just have to live with suboptimal plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:47:11.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:47:56.767" Score="26" ViewCount="1493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I can buy boards, cards, dice, fake money, figures, and any sort of pieces? It would be nice if the store sells on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good reason is to buy replacements for damaged or lost pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-11-05T05:26:39.600" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T01:39:51.600" Title="Where I can buy good resources to build games?" Tags="|game-development|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-08-25T19:04:05.973" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:50:33.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think once people get experienced with a game, they get better at the game and take less time.  If people understand the rules, they're going to be much better at decided what to do.  Be polite about nagging them to move.  If you badger someone to much, they're not going to want to play again.  Some games, like chess are naturally going to be slow.  If the other players in the group are fast, hopefully they'll learn to step up pace after a few playthroughs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're teaching someone a new game, let them ask you questions and don't make the environment so competitive where they have to make the best possible decision each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T14:16:52.970" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T14:16:52.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:51:00.150" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've tended to favor games that have either cooperative decision making or simultaneous decision making, instead of sequential decision making where your turn will rely heavily on what the previous players did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is good because, while not cooperative, everyone plays simultaneously. You need to start each turn together, which means you need to wait at the end of the turn for everyone to finish, but you don't have a point where one slow player starts and finishes a turn while everyone glares at him&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is perfect because it's a cooperative game, and the way we play there almost aren't individual players -- it's like there are 4 of us controlling 4 pieces as a group, and none of us particularly owns one piece. We make all the decisions as a group and whoever is closest to the piece will move it, so it's impossible for one player's turn to bog down the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be good, but is risky; we've had success with it because we've tended to play only the base game, where most cards don't affect the other players. That means the slow player can draw their next hand right after their turn ends and spend the next three players' turns deciding what to do, and their decision won't be substantially thrown off by the other player's actions. This isn't a perfect solution, and we've still had a number of turns where people took forever, particularly if they play cards that cause them to draw other cards, but it works sometimes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T01:16:44.660" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T01:16:44.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="572" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:52:17.590" Score="5" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards like Warrior Priest from Empire deck has a damage redirection rule. How exactly does this rule work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: if my opponent assigns 1 damage to my Warrior Priest can I simply move the damage token to any unit surviving the battle and ignore the damage on the Priest or is it an extra damage that Priest will deal but will die anyway because he was assigned enough damage to kill him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ixJa.png&quot; alt=&quot;Warrior Priests&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T05:28:00.837" Title="Damage redirection in Warhammer Invasion" Tags="|warhammer-invasion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:53:47.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend taking a strong area that you intend to make yours, and a number of satellite areas that are either easy to defend by themselves (eg: Australia), or that are relatively proximal to your strong area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, starting with South America, grab a few locations in North America, Africa and Europe. This will make it more difficult for your opponents to capture those continents, and will give you some support when you go to take them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:53:47.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:58:04.307" Score="3" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at the following combat scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players had counted their forces strength and assigned the damage to opponents forces (assigned but not yet applied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now according to the rules players can play Tactics cards (as in between every other combat phases).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: can one player play now the tactics card that will give him extra strength? The damage has been assigned already and having this ability would move the game back to previous phase (damage assignment) but the rule book doesn't clarify this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T13:21:41.623" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T13:21:41.623" Title="Tactic cards in combat in Warhammer: Invasion" Tags="|warhammer-invasion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-10-19T21:58:19.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is kind of an indirect answer to the question, but I've played with the following alternate rules (for 2 players only):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lay out treasure, victory, and curse cards as normal.  Optionally lay out a randomly chosen defense card (Moat, Lighthouse, etc.) and a randomly chosen alternate victory card (Garden, Harem, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player writes down five kingdom cards that he would like to play with (A card may be chosen by both player).  The lists are swapped and each player can veto one of his opponent's five cards and replace it with any card of the same cost.  Lists are returned to their owner and each owner gets his own &lt;em&gt;five private stacks&lt;/em&gt; of 5 cards each according to the list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player can purchase cards from the communal piles (treasure, victory, curse, and the optional cards), or from his own private five piles, but he cannot purchase from his opponents'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the game, players swap their five private piles and play a game with their opponent's chosen cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T21:58:19.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="145" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:07:05.283" Score="32" ViewCount="12760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried playing Arkham Horror with 1, 2 and 4 players. I've found that the game seems extraordinarily difficult with less than 4 characters. Simply put, you don't have enough gos to do everything. Gates keep opening, monsters keep appearing, and it only takes 1 curse, a bad monster, or a couple of delayed turns and it's all over. Adding any expansions simply kicks the difficulty up further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After several frustrating games, I now don't play with less than 4 characters. In a two player game, each of us takes two characters, and plays the game as if there were 4 players. This seems to give a better balance, but is a lot to remember and keep track of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had success playing Arkham with less than 4 characters? In particular, have you managed a reasonable game with two players and two characters (i.e., one character each)? How did you manage it? Did you have to adjust any of the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="3324" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T18:26:28.183" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T18:20:17.133" Title="Is it possible to play 2-player, 2-character Arkham Horror successfully?" Tags="|house-rules|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="146" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:08:08.393" Score="21" ViewCount="2583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a number of games that come in large boxes that do not have sectioned compartments for individual pieces. Whenever I take them over to people's houses everything rattles around and gets mixed up, and the first thing I have to do is sort them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendation on any cases you can use inside of game boxes to keep the pieces sorted? Obviously different games have somewhat different requirements, but I am looking for broad suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of my friends have suggested trays from tackle boxes might be a good solution, though most of the ones I have looked at do not have any sections large enough for decks of cards, which are a pretty common kind of game piece for many boardgames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="83" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T14:10:01.783" Title="Game piece storage" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:10:19.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some games, I use boxes with small spaces to store the contents.&#xA;For other games, I made some paper internal to divide the open box into several compartments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:10:19.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:11:16.797" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gentle prodding is probably the best suggestion, but if that doesn't do the trick sit them down after the game and let them know what they're doing. A player that over analyzes every move generally isn't much fun to play with, and telling them that (nicely) can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't work, try practicing with some simple games (for example poker). Once they get used to making faster decisions, it often translates into other games, especially when combined with gentle prodding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final resort, try playing timed games, where the impulse to think long and hard about a decision is countered by a running clock. Good examples are chess/go with a timer, outburst, trivial pursuit, and cranium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:11:16.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="170" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:13:46.780" Score="5" ViewCount="2868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting to play Warhammer 40k with Orks and I need a clarification to one of the rules for Orks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orks have &lt;strong&gt;Mob Rule&lt;/strong&gt; so they can exchange their Leadership value with a number of models in unit. And if there are more then 11 models in unit with that rule this unit is given &lt;strong&gt;Fearless&lt;/strong&gt; special rule (which make perfect sense because with 12 models you have 12 Ld value so you can't fail the test).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the Fearless special rule isn't that great IMO because if changes leadership tests to wounds which in case of Ork Boyz means immediate casualties. This is written somewhere in manual where morale tests are explained but it's not mentioned in Special Abilities section of the manual. Can someone clarify if my understanding is correct or wrong, because this special ability sounds quite unfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:53:32.740" Title="Orks Mob Rule in Warhammer 40k" Tags="|warhammer-40k|orks|space-orks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="140" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:14:00.017" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, We've played this way many times and it works quite well for an enjoyable game.  I highly recommend it.  You don't need to make any adjustment to the rules to do so, just make sure that you keep each character's possessions separate!  Also remember that certain game elements are based on the number of characters, not players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One variation you might try is to play two people with one character each.  Just skip every other Mythos phase.  Essentially each character gets 2 turns between Mythos phases.  If you do this, consider yourselves to be playing a 4 character game for all relevant settings.  This will ease your bookkeeping headaches although it will also make the game a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your statement that you find the game difficult under 4 people, you aren't the only one!  Here are the stats from 5200 games taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzdEszdXpoRVJQNGltTU5wMi1qWEJnQkE&amp;amp;hl=en#gid=4&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror statistics report&lt;/a&gt;.  If your winning percentage doesn't quite measure up to the below, keep in mind that folks submitting their games to this collection probably have quite a bit more experience playing Arkham Horror than most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Investigators   Win %   Close % Seal %  Combat % Games&#xA;1               38%     3%      6%      29%      100&#xA;2               52%     4%      25%     23%      606&#xA;3               60%     7%      30%     23%      767&#xA;4               65%     11%     39%     15%      2,941&#xA;5               69%     16%     39%     14%      378&#xA;6               67%     16%     43%     7%       387&#xA;7               68%     16%     39%     14%      44&#xA;8               73%     25%     42%     7%       60&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, as the investigator count decreases from 5, the game gets progressively tougher.  Also you will probably find more success if you are open to the possibility of a combat victory with 1-3 players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T18:42:54.873" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:42:54.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:14:32.683" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use small plastic baggies for almost every game I buy. When I open a game, I expect to need a few snack sized, sandwich sized, and tiny hobby-sized baggies. These satisfy my needs for most games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25417/battlelore&quot;&gt;BattleLore&lt;/a&gt; for which I purchased a couple of small-parts boxes (intended for crafting, I think) from my local Hobby Lobby. They have worked out great. Here's a link to the same (or very similar) &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00005QWYF&quot;&gt;item on Amazon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; has many storage solution suggestions, including individual tuckboxes customized on a per-game basis. For example, here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/53580/agricola-tile-tuckbox&quot;&gt;one for Agricola&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T03:42:18.870" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T03:42:18.870" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:14:59.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One winning strategy is to make an early alliance, preferably with Austria and then knock out Turkey and turn on France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably have to backstab Austria at some point - certainly, I've never got to 18 without Trieste - but that's the usual backstab timing question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:14:59.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:15:01.233" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A zip-lock bag can work amazingly well for most situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:15:01.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="160" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:15:19.690" Score="20" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Race For The Galaxy, I'm usually focused on my own cards, and only find out who wins during the scoring at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a feature of the game — that is, is it low on interaction? Or is my strategy inadequate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T22:23:02.407" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T20:02:35.063" Title="Interaction in Race For The Galaxy" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="162" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:15:52.810" Score="9" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a team has 3 tricks and the other scores a trick, you can throw in all the cards because you know the team of 3 tricks will get one point only. There is no sense playing out the final trick. I have played both ways and do not have a preference as long as everybody is consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to determine the &quot;speed&quot; at which the game is played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="82" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T23:06:56.527" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T14:51:32.303" Title="What's the proper etiquette when a Euchre trick is earned?" Tags="|euchre|etiquette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:18:24.903" Score="15" ViewCount="5457" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group of gaming buddies, after playing plenty of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9220/saboteur&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt;, has found that the &quot;good dwarves&quot; can pretty easily win consistently once they learn which pieces are most valuable and how to best respond to revealed saboteurs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good house rules to even things up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T23:21:37.307" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T23:21:37.307" Title="What are some good house rules to balance the sides in Saboteur?" Tags="|house-rules|saboteur|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-02-25T23:53:59.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="181" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:18:38.660" Score="8" ViewCount="16957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently stumbled upon the Asian game Mahjong and came to like it.  I already play Go and Chess online, but had difficulties finding a good, English-language Mahjong server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any English servers, and if so what are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T04:03:32.763" LastActivityDate="2021-03-06T23:27:57.200" Title="Are there any English servers where I can play Mahjong online?" Tags="|mahjong|online|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="151" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:21:48.367" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;One technique we've used is to ensure that the saboteurs know each others's identities before starting the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everyone has checked their role cards, everyone puts their heads down.  One player calls out for the saboteurs to put their heads up and identify each other.  They put their heads back down, then everyone puts their heads up and starts playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lets the saboteurs be much more effective and strategic - if one of the other saboteurs reveals himself, you can play more cautiously to reserve for sabotage later.  You can also collaboratively lie about Map results if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my group of (fairly experienced) players this rule has resulted in a much more balanced ratio of wins for the good dwarves and the saboteurs, while not going so far as to outright allow the saboteurs to directly communicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another house rule we use is to always guarantee the maximum number of saboteurs, rather than having a chance for one fewer as in the normal rules.  Otherwise the saboteurs are typically screwed when they're one man down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-10-19T22:27:02.673" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:27:02.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:23:32.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main advantage is that you move 2 at the same time. It's important to note that the 2 castlings are not the same. The long one is more aggressive and if you do it right, you get your rook in line with your queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, taking the center should be an objective. Castling enables this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider myself a strong player, but in my experience, Castling is best used for positioning rather as a defense for your King. Remember, you need to have the Initiative...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:23:32.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:23:43.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dice will probably be the least of your problems since you can buy them at any game store. As for other elements I'd look on eBay. You could probably buy some cheap board games and combine them to make your dream game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="1391" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T03:48:23.487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T03:48:23.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:24:42.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my group, we tend to adjust the number of piles based on the number of players.  With 3-5 players, we keep 10 piles.  6-7 players 11-12 piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that, if you have all 5 Dominion box sets (like I do), you have 112 Kingdom cards to choose from, so you may want to mix and match them.  115 if you have the 3 promo card sets as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, we've been doing one of the following methods to choose cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player chooses 2 cards.  If there are not 10 cards yet, discuss what other cards to add as a group.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a randomizer program (&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dominion-kingdom-deck/id350024780?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Kingdom Deck&lt;/a&gt; for the iPod Touch/iPhone seems to be popular where I work) to select 10 cards.  Each player can then opt to swap out 1 card for a card of their choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we have multiple games, we do the second between each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:24:42.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:25:46.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9220/saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent card-based game with one or more traitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a group of dwarves tunneling toward gold, but some of you are traitors paid by a rival mining company.  Saboteur is especially great with large groups (7 or 8, the game supports up to 10) as the accusations fly fast and furiously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Individual games go quickly, and you play 3 games in a row to decide an overall winner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T14:24:55.937" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:24:55.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:30:14.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Medic - Each night he/she selects someone that will not die that night. (Hopefully that someone is not himself). Everyone knows who is the Medic, but he can be a Werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:30:14.670" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3450" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:30:44.810" Score="11" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the 90s, I enjoyed collecting &lt;em&gt;SimCity: The Card Game&lt;/em&gt;. I can't help but feel excited that there's a lot of potential in the game, but that the rules are broken and in certain aspects, to be honest, downright absurd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQBJc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;SimCity: The Card Game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am especially bothered by a number of things that are either annoying or out of balance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sheer amount of &lt;strong&gt;counting&lt;/strong&gt; the rules have you do.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have a decent city going, keeping track of the number residents within however many of blocks&amp;mdash;either by road or rail&amp;mdash;is a headache.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worse yet, add a couple of &lt;em&gt;Receive # for every [card type] within # blocks&lt;/em&gt; into the mix, and you'll spend a good deal of the evening counting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zoning bonuses&lt;/strong&gt; become crazy. Once a residential zone has reached a modest size, the value of putting &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; card down is dwarfed by the massive bonus of appending it to a zone. There's no sense in trying to close off a zone, either, because your opponent will eat you alive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Council members&lt;/strong&gt; are useless. Never does the game reach a point in which rezoning is really an issue, because it takes too many members to veto the mayor and/or council chairman. You require much too many in the deck, and pretty much any other card yields more value in the long run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;City services&lt;/strong&gt; pay off much too much. Put down a few schools and a few police stations, and you'll be &quot;adding&quot; &amp;amp; &quot;receiving&quot; yourself to bliss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many of the &lt;strong&gt;event cards&lt;/strong&gt; are either extremely focused on the council, or, like &lt;em&gt;Fire!&lt;/em&gt;, extremely destructive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Phase one cards&lt;/strong&gt; pollute your deck once you have passed beyond that phase, but there's a dilemma: you can't really have less than a third of your deck filled with them unless you intend to sit around collecting cards for the first hour or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these rules might be somewhat alleviated by limiting the playing area to something like 6&amp;times;6, and having the good sense not to add too many city services, but that doesn't cut it for me. I sometimes get the impression that I might not be fully understanding the rules, but the official rulebook leaves so many questions unanswered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, I feel very attached to the game, but the rules just let me down. Are there any good alternatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=card&amp;amp;w=31684698%40N07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Flickr stream&lt;/a&gt; has some photos, for those who haven't played for the past 15 years and wish to refresh their memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="81" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T12:17:03.267" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T12:17:03.267" Title="Alternative rules for SimCity: The Card Game" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:32:04.280" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;While low interaction is a frequent critique of the game, I think most experienced players would tell you that you're not playing the game as effectively as you could. First, I'm assuming you're playing the game without the Brink of War rules which add direct player conflict to the game. Second, a large part of the subtlety of the game is the need to very carefully make decisions about role selection - optimally, you want to balance your selection against the roles you think other players will select while avoiding selections that benefit other players more than they benefit you (in other words, you want to maximize the value/activity you achieve during a term while minimizing the value/activity of your opponents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another subtle point is the need to review other player's tableaus for point scoring combos - when you see someone else's combo fall into place, it's generally advisable to move the game to its end (unless of course your own combo is up and running and superior). The last tidbit that is typically overlooked is card denial. In most games of RftG, the deck will be shuffled a few times, increasing the odds that your opponents will get the chance to play rarer cards that can shift the victory point totals significantly. Holding on to cards that you intend to spend for a bit longer can mean that a useful card never sees play due to the timing of shuffles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T06:18:44.217" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T06:18:44.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:32:19.930" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Game Crafter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2011-01-29T05:31:48.283" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T05:31:48.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:34:31.833" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used to play a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of Euchre the side that didn't call trump would often toss in their cards after taking one trick conceding the rest of the tricks to the caller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes all it would take is to show the left bower after the right had been played on the first trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each group has to decide what they are comfortable with, but I think the more you play the faster you will get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:34:31.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="550" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:34:36.923" Score="13" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Republic of Rome, if Rome falls, &lt;em&gt;everyone loses.&lt;/em&gt;  Some gaming groups I've been in grok this concept completely and players will make major sacrifices of their positions (donating lots of money from personal treasuries to the state to fight off the Punic Wars in the Early Republic, for example), while others regard Rome falling as a draw, and deliberately play to cause Rome to fall if they think they can't win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a mixture of both types of player, then the fall-of-Rome-is-a-draw players can exploit the fall-of-Rome-is-a-loss players by threatening to bring Rome down and demanding concessions for saving it.  This tends to provoke resentment on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions for (a) how to prevent this conflict and (b) how to resolve it before punches start being thrown?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T08:53:04.520" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T08:53:04.520" Title="How do you prevent deliberately losing in Republic of Rome?" Tags="|republic-of-rome|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:35:50.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Via wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any tile played from the player's rack onto a previously vacant square that is a &quot;double-letter&quot; or &quot;triple-letter&quot; premium square has its point value doubled or tripled as indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add the normal point value of all other letters in the word (whether newly played or existing).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For each newly played tile placed on a &quot;double-word&quot; premium square, the total of each word containing that tile is doubled (or redoubled).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For each newly placed tile placed on a &quot;triple-word&quot; premium square, the total of each word containing that tile is tripled (or re-tripled).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Premium squares affect the score of each word made in the same play by constituent tiles played upon those squares. Premium squares, once played upon, are not counted again in subsequent plays.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a player uses all seven of the tiles in the rack in a single play, a bonus of 50 points is added to the score of that play (this is called a &quot;bingo&quot; in Canada and the United States, a &quot;Scrabble&quot; in Spain and a &quot;bonus&quot; elsewhere). These bonus points are added after totaling the score for that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:35:50.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:36:14.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some game stores do sell a number of game creation items.  I would check with your friendly local game store and see if they carry the Fantasy Flight Game Supply line which currently includes card sleeves, game tokens, and plastic stands.  Dice should be relatively easy to come by at your game store as well, and I know Chessex carries a full line of white or creme blank dice in 4,6,8,10,12 or 20 sided varieties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My local gamestore also carries pawns and blank playing cards, but I know that isn't necessarily the norm.  For any items you can't find locally, the internet is always worth a search.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="64" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:36:14.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:43:37.237" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a lot of cooperative games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The two that we currently play are:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/207790000&quot;&gt;Castle Ravenloft&lt;/a&gt; - Based on the old D&amp;amp;D theme.  Fun and simpler to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=36&quot;&gt;Red November&lt;/a&gt; - Gnomish Submarine that continually gets less seaworthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also some great quick card games:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.necreaux.com/&quot;&gt;The Isle of Dr. Necreaux&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=118&amp;amp;enmi=Death%20Angel&quot;&gt;Space Hulk&lt;/a&gt; (as mentioned above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All games are co-op and &quot;all win or all lose&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:43:37.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="279" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:47:40.117" Score="10" ViewCount="2271" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is a good time to backstab an ally in Diplomacy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I backstab if I can grab a Supply Centre or two, or should I wait for an opportunity to eliminate an enemy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T13:52:28.903" LastActivityDate="2023-07-02T19:22:13.880" Title="Timing a backstab in Diplomacy" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:49:13.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to find that beginners backstab too early, and do so to just grab an SC or two.  Real experts seem to play with much more fluid alliance systems where it's not entirely clear what a backstab would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as an intermediate player, my usual plan is to try to backstab just as we eliminate our first victim, or a little later - somewhere in the 7-10 SC range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time the backstab to cripple the former ally, so you can eliminate them pretty quickly, and you're well on the way to winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:49:13.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="416" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:52:07.170" Score="18" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I can learn more if I see what people some kyu above me do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31/what-do-you-recommend-to-learn-go&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;, but I think, this one is more specific and might diverge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T09:29:15.647" Title="Where can I watch recorded Go games from Masters?" Tags="|go|study|kifu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="144" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:53:32.740" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid you do understand the ruling correctly (there is no GW statement on this that I'm aware of since there's no conflict in the two rules). The important thing to remember is that the substitution is optional - if you're likely to take massive damage from fearless, take a chance on the dice and use their adjusted leadership (adjusted for modifiers from the combat). I think that you will find that your decision on taking casualties vs risking a failed leadership check will greatly depend on the unit and what you're trying to do with it (a unit of 30 gretchin designed to hold up an assault squad is going to happily take the casualties while your boyz are likely to take their chances with a roll - though even these examples are dependent on what you're trying to do and the current situation on the table). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T22:53:32.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T22:57:59.680" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne_%28board_game%29&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;. You can be competitive if you want, but there's no need. Beautiful maps you can create. And if needed you can play with more people. It's quite easy to explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T03:49:59.883" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T03:49:59.883" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="739" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:01:53.547" Score="9" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that FFG's Descent and Doom board games use roughly the same mechanics, but my understanding is that there are numerous small differences that lead people to prefer Descent over Doom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the differences in theme, what are the mechanical differences between these two games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastEditorDisplayName="user3678" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T13:09:38.860" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T13:09:38.860" Title="What are the mechanical differences between Doom and Descent from Fantasy Flight Games?" Tags="|descent|doom|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="121" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:03:30.643" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can start here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/forum/26/boardgamegeek/board-game-design&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek Design Forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find that there are lots of people who make there own games, and lots of examples of how to make and/or publish your games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the first pinned topic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/322382/game-design-self-publishing-a-resource-for-game&quot;&gt;Game Design &amp;amp; Self-Publishing – A Resource for Game Designers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:03:30.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="175" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:03:50.947" Score="7" ViewCount="1218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most card games have a fairly common etiquette.  One rule for Rummy I know of is that you should announce any intention to adjust the visible cards before touching them, to indicate you are not taking one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the other common rules of etiquette for Rummy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T11:07:17.993" Title="What are the standard rules of etiquette for Rummy?" Tags="|rummy|etiquette|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:04:57.320" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a list from BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/66420/attention-industry-sources&quot;&gt;Industry Sources&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should get you started on the path to finding everything you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:04:57.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="187" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:06:05.187" Score="16" ViewCount="16719" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told by several people that different countries are statistically better choices for Axis and Allies?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any evidence that one or more countries have a significant advantage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T14:14:16.280" Title="Axis and Allies - Is there a best country?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|statistics|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="232" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:14:33.163" Score="20" ViewCount="5469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been looking into the rules a bit but can't find all the answers I want and it's possible this is more of a house rule with no definitive answer, but what I'm looking for is some official ruling if it exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do grass continue under bridges? i.e. is the grass connected? I'm thinking of the bridges from for example River 2 that cross the river.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PE7Yt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/123798/carcassonne-the-river-ii&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also does the grass go around the well/pond from River expansions? Usually even if no other tiles connect the grass we do play as if the grass does connect on well/pond. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VoX5X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/205624/carcassonne-river-ii&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do grass continue around the monastery from Catapult (that has the yellow fair thing stretching from one end to another)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jOmbL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/399169/carcassonne-catapult&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally Bridges, Castles and Bazaars I'm assuming grass under the wooden bridges does connect? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NcJ69.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/763467/carcassonne-bridges-castles-and-bazaars&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot more pieces in the expansions that basically asks the same question about farmer grass. If there is no official ruling I'm still interested in what is most common out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="1246" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T01:54:10.507" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T03:14:29.577" Title="Carcassonne: The Grass Connection" Tags="|carcassonne|carcassonne-river|carcassonne-catapult|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="358" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:16:58.890" Score="85" ViewCount="109883" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering, the decks are required to be no less than 60 cards, but can be larger.  Since you can only have 4 of each card (except for basic lands), it seems you would want the limit size to improve your chances of getting the cards you want.  Why would you want to play with a larger deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T18:21:09.463" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T19:45:18.243" Title="Why would you want to play with a deck bigger than 60 cards in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="152" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:23:13.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;a href=&quot;http://games.yahoo.com/games/login2?page=mjs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mahjong&lt;/a&gt; online through Yahoo. But, there usually aren't that many players on their server. Yahoo also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://games.yahoo.com/games/login2?page=mjs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;solitaire&lt;/a&gt; Mahjong games, if that's what you're referring to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mahjongexpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MahjongExpress&lt;/a&gt;. I've never played on there, but it looks like it requires you to install software, kind of like the online poker games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:23:13.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="694" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:26:12.620" Score="4" ViewCount="2442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a list of Star Players for 2nd Edition of Blood Bowl somewhere? Obviously the ones from Star Players Handbook and Companion Rulebook is simple enough but the ones printed in White Dwarf etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T16:32:42.940" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:32:42.940" Title="Blood Bowl 2nd edition: Star Players" Tags="|blood-bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="190" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:38:42.200" Score="8" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I understand the rules correctly in that all center cards are replaced when defeated/bought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I can if I have good power cards spend some runes on replacing cheap cards in order to hope something stronger with a better reward will come up to replace them cards, or is the turn played with the cards at the center and then replaced when your turn finishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules as I read them seems to suggest that they are replaced when fought/bought but that made the game feel very strange. This might simply be a feeling based on playing a lot of Dominion lately with its restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="274" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T04:45:50.857" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T04:45:50.857" Title="Replacing center cards in Ascension" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:41:27.197" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the perfect game for you guys: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/lastnightonearth/&quot;&gt;Last Night On Earth&lt;/a&gt;. I've played dozens of board games, and I really don't go back to any of them anymore except for this one. It is a co-op game, as long as you have more than 3 players. The reason for this is that you have Heroes and Zombies and someone has to be zombies. However, this is why it's not a highly competitive game: as much as Heroes may want to win, the chances of that happening are unlikely. Ok, I know this sounds ridiculous: &quot;why would I want to play a game which one side almost always wins?!.&quot; The answer is simple, Last Night on Earth's charm lies in recreating B zombie movie cliches and playing through impossible odds. You are encouraged to create your own rules and try new things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="101" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:41:27.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:46:17.367" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Statistically, I think the Axis get the short end.  I tried finding some web site specifically discussing stats on various countries, but came up empty, so you'll have to settle for qualitative data from me at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I havn't played this game in years, but I always like playing Russia.  I would say Russia is the best in terms of fun to play, but it's not the strongest.  Overall, A&amp;amp;A is an economic game &amp;amp; the Allies have the advantage.  So from that perspective, the US &amp;amp; UK might be considered 'best countries', if there is such a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like playing the Axis side, I would rank Germany as having a small advantage on the first turn, but it erodes quickly. If you haven't wiped out the British fleet early in the game and made solid progress into Africa by the time the Americans start showing up, well... lets just say a bunker suicide might not sound so bad after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A risky strategy has Germany taking Leningrad early.  If you can hold it at the beginning of your turn, the game is basically over. You have to have plenty of luck on your side.  A safer approach is to go for Africa &amp;amp; have Japan invade Asia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UK, US &amp;amp; Russia are all good late game countries.  If you can keep a UK fleet alive through the early phases of the game, you can effectively pin Germany down in Europe build up major industry in India.  Early in the game, the UK is mostly a punching bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Russia, you can prevent an early assault by massing infantry on you borders, especially against Germany. You make attacks against you prohibitively expensive, but you are free to send waves of infantry into Germany if you see any weakness there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.criticalgamers.com/archives/board-games/strategies_for_wwii.php&quot;&gt;http://www.criticalgamers.com/archives/board-games/strategies_for_wwii.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/taxonomy/term/27&quot;&gt;http://www.axisandallies.org/taxonomy/term/27&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:46:17.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:48:48.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A city cuts a field in two, as does a road, even if it appears elevated in the drawing.  So that tile from River 2 has four fields on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the field wraps around a feature on the tile--such as the lake at the end of the river, a cloister at the end of a road, or the river source--then the field is connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played with Catapult, but judging from the picture, it looks to me like that Cloister and the stuff connected to it &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; divide the field.  I'm sure the rules that came with that expansion address it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:48:48.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:51:47.810" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not necessarily &quot;board games&quot; there are a few card games that have a nice solo option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.necreaux.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Isle Of Dr. Necreaux&lt;/a&gt; has a great pulp sci-fi theme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=118&amp;amp;enmi=Death%20Angel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Hulk: Death Angel&lt;/a&gt; is a good single or two player game that recreates the feel of the board game well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1827/chainsaw-warrior&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chainsaw Warrior&lt;/a&gt; — you, a chainsaw, and stuff that needs chainsawing... nuff said.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:25:02.853" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:25:02.853" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="184" CreationDate="2010-10-19T23:59:47.563" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only played one game of Ascension, and I got the same idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the ruling directly from the download-able &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ascensiongame.com/download/rules/ascension_faq.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q:  When does a card in the center row get replaced?  If I defeat Mephit, do I banish a card &#xA;  in the center row before or after a new card replaces the Mephit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A:  Whenever a card leaves the center row, &lt;strong&gt;the first thing that happens is that it is replaced from the center deck&lt;/strong&gt;.  There should be six cards in the center row at all times.  In this instance, if you &#xA;  defeat Mephit, you replace the Mephit from the center deck and then make your decision about &#xA;  what card to banish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ascensiongame.com/download/rules/ascension_faq.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-10-19T23:59:47.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:07:21.030" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you have learned some basic strategy, the best way to learn is to play.  If you don't have a friend or neighbor to play with, then I highly recommend the American Go Association.  They have a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usgo.org/resources/index.html&quot;&gt;resources page&lt;/a&gt;, links to clubs, books and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usgo.org/resources/computer.html#teaches&quot;&gt;teaching software&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AGA maintains a list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usgo.org/resources/servers.html&quot;&gt;Internet Go Servers&lt;/a&gt; for on-line play, including some turn-based servers.  Turn-based servers are good for beginners because there is no pressure to move quickly — you play via email.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragongoserver.net/&quot;&gt;Dragon Go Server&lt;/a&gt; is dedicated to Go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The great thing about Go is that it is easy to handicap.  You and a much more accomplished player can both enjoy a game together, you just have to handicap the expert player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T11:41:42.917" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T11:41:42.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:08:00.890" Score="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a strategy standpoint, my answer would be &amp;quot;You wouldn't&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mathematics of probability in drawing from a 60 card deck vs a 61 or 62 card deck change (almost dramatically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think that often you can start with more than 60 cards when 'testing' a deck. Often you find that a card doesn't fit or '&lt;em&gt;play nice with others&lt;/em&gt;' and should come out.  Same with cards that you draw and think &amp;quot;I wish I hadn't drawn that&amp;quot;.  Those cards come out also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to summarize, when testing ideas, 60+ is okay.  For tournament play, reduce to 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="11689" LastEditDate="2023-01-24T19:45:18.243" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T19:45:18.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:08:24.573" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding diversity seems to the biggest reason you'd want to go over 60.  Since most decks are designed around getting certain cards, increasing the size of the deck beyond sixty decreases the probability of drawing any one card.  Since a deck is limited to only four copies of a non land card usually, this added diversity comes at the cost of significantly reducing the chances of getting a certain card in a given game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think for players looking to experiment, or looking for decks that deliver truly random results, having a deck larger then sixty isn't an issue.  Larger decks could be fun for some people to play since they can have a much larger selection of spells, but I don't there are any strategic reasons for doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Larger decks are going to be much less constant on getting the cards you need, when you need them.  Most magic decks are highly focused one or at most two strategies for winning.  Especially when your looking for a certain card combination to win, having extra cards will just reduce the odds of you getting the cards you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:08:24.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="879" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:13:25.303" Score="24" ViewCount="5737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there something anyone knows of that you can apply to the surface of a board game to protect it against wear so that it lasts longer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T03:01:38.980" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T14:20:41.010" Title="Protecting the surface of your board games..." Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:14:25.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Age of Steam expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/30929/age-of-steam-expansion-barbados-st-lucia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barbados&lt;/a&gt; is a one-player map. The random cube distribution at the beginning makes it interesting to replay. Note that this map is included in the 3rd edition of Age of Steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:14:25.323" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:15:07.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four is thought to be one of the best ones to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll be assured of going first or second (though I'd avoid three), and you can buy a full boat of coal that will tide you over until turn 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:15:07.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="466" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:21:53.550" Score="5" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;When on New Caprica in the Pegasus expansion, can a crisis effect move a player from Detention to the Medical Center?  The Cylon players allowed it in the individual instance to try and keep the game running and fun, but we had some doubts about whether or not it is legal to be forced out of Detention simply by a crisis forcing the current player to move someone on New Caprica to the Medical Center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T18:17:35.660" Title="When on New Caprica, can a crisis effect move a player from Detention to the Medical Center?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:22:33.287" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm the first player, I always go for the most powerful settlement, since I have no idea what I'll get when it comes back around to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm last, I grab spots that based on the numbers and the available ports will get me an advantage.  I also like to try to place the second settlement on a brick/wood combo so I can start with a road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other positions are variations in between the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I try very hard for number diversity.  I love it when I can get both a 6 and an 8 placement.  Next in line is at least 3 of the following: 5, 6, 8, 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final thing you have to look out for is that you have somewhere to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:22:33.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:22:38.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Independent Chip Model (ICM) is a way of calculating the right decision when playing the bubble in Texas Hold'em tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A = Player 1's Stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B = Player 2's Stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C = Player 3's Stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T = Total chips in play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A * 0.5 + B * (A * 0.3 + C * 0.2) / (A + C) + C * (A * 0.3 + B * 0.2) / (A + B)) / T&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="32310" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T17:26:19.007" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T17:26:19.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:24:54.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play many games (Settlers, Puerto Rico, Ticket to Ride) against the computer.  Their strategies get old after a while, but it gives me some practice.  Lots of the popular games are also online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:24:54.853" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="194" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:25:50.187" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual recommendation is to get a sheet of plexiglass (known as Perspex&amp;reg; in the UK) and lay that across the board when you're playing.  It's an especially good solution for &quot;board&quot; games that don't actually have a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well-made board-backed games don't really need any help, but many small-press games have the board printed on stiff card or even paper.  Paper gaming surfaces go back at least to SPI's foundation in 1969, and so do plexiglass coverings to prevent them getting ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:25:50.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:26:34.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Initial placement is critical, but once you've seen the layout, you can devise a strategy that will get you something.  One of the big goals you should be going for is number diversity, so that you're always getting something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:26:34.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="243" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:27:17.327" Score="13" ViewCount="3355" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in Tsuro are very vague about what happens once the players start to run out of tiles.  What's the best way to handle how titles are drawn in Tsuro when a player goes out, and other players are lacking tiles.  I know the dragon title is placed at the end of the deck, and signifies that a player who draws the dragon tile should received a card once one becomes available, but what happens if more then one player has less then three tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's conceivable for a player to go out to take out more then one player, possibly freeing multiple tiles.  Should all player lacking tiles go back up to three if they can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="387" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T15:44:09.483" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T04:04:18.197" Title="How to handle late game tile drawing in Tsuro" Tags="|end-game|tsuro|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:32:18.507" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Implied odds or implied pot odds are calculated the same way as pot odds, but consider future betting. You figure implied odds in situations where you expect to fold in the next round if you don't make your draw. You lose no more bets if you miss, but can expect to gain extra bets if you hit the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example. Say you see the flop with 2 other players acting before you in a NL game. You flop a gutshot straight draw. The first player bets and the second calls and now the pot is laying you 7:1. For a gutshot you want 10:1 or better; however, if you hit your straight on the turn, you stand to stack off one or both of your opponents. Thus your implied odds are considerably greater than 7:1, so you call. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Implied odds with a flush draw can be dicier. Namely because you can hit your flush on the turn and that kills the action. And your implied odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example is a very simple one. If you were in the same scenario, but 2nd to act instead of last; you would be in a much different situation in that the last player could raise and ruin (or not) your implied odds. Additionally, stack sizes matter. If your opponents are short stacked you may not have the odds for the call. So, when considering implied odds be very aware of the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T00:58:51.700" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:58:51.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:33:06.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We try to be as lenient as possible, no one wants a crappy game because they forgot one thing.  I always give slack, because I always want slack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:33:06.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4210" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:39:39.303" Score="24" ViewCount="4169" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first started playing Dominion, I saw the Bureaucrat and thought, &lt;em&gt;cool, free silver and an attack!&lt;/em&gt;  I bought one almost every time it was available.  The more I played, though, I began to realize I didn't seem to do very well in the end when I used it heavily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I thought about it, I realized there is one big detriment to Bureaucrat: it adds to your draw pile, and thus slows down how quickly you can rotate through your deck.  It may help your next hand, but that Gold you just bought will take longer to come back around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: Are there key strategies that make excellent use of the Bureaucrat's abilities, and if so, what are they?  How do you capitalize on this card, and when are you best to ignore it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T20:04:06.547" LastActivityDate="2020-03-29T03:13:22.237" Title="When is the Bureaucrat worth buying?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:43:52.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to balance it out with other cards that will give you buying power for the current turn.  It is especially powerful if you have multiple actions, and can use a later play to draw cards immediately getting that Silver into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:43:52.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="109" CreationDate="2010-10-20T00:52:38.507" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bankroll is your safe haven. The bankroll is what makes you different from a gambler, betting, bet again, breaks and puts more money in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bankroll is a fundamental part of you being a poker player. Treat it with due importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bankroll should be large. It's more than you think you need. It is much larger than you want it. The truth is that you need a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why you need a lot? Because of something called a variance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know that poker is a game of skill, but in the short term, luck plays a great importance. Even the best players end up having to go through hard times. This is part of the game and every player should be able to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that your bankroll vary up and down over the course of the game is known as variance. The more aggressive style, the greater the variability. And the more you play a game of high variance (as MTT or 6-max), the greater the ups and downs will meet your bankroll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no escaping the variance. Even if you are prudent and cautious, your bankroll will experience ups and downs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in high, it's just joy, but the low that you need a good bankroll. You need a box that allows you to resist the bad times without breaking. Because if you break, will not be able to enjoy the sound stage, which will certainly come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bankroll should always be calculated in relation to buy-ins or stakes of the games you want to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bankroll of $ 1000 can be big or little ... depends on the buy-in. If you're playing $ 5 SNG's (Sit and Go) tournament, this is a pretty good bankroll. Have to play $ 50 SNGs, it is little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bankroll of $ 2000 is big enough for you to face without fear NL cash tables 0.10 to 0.20. But the same bankroll can not stand the jolt of the NL tables 1-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are methods to calculate the bankroll according to your ROI, ie its return on investment. I do not advise a beginner to use this method. To know your ROI and you need a good time and a lot of hands in poker tournaments or played (even many). Moreover, the game changes, changing tables, opponents change. Your ROI will not be the same as six months ago, it will fluctuate a lot over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for those just starting out, I suggest being guided by the amount of buy-ins. It is simpler and is guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said above, in relation to the bankroll, you better be cautious. Here are my recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cash games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6-Max: 100 buy-ins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Down to level 60 with buy-ins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full Ring: 80 buy-ins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Down to level 55 with buy-ins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournaments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sit and Go: 50 buy-ins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Level down to 30 buy-ins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MTT: 100 buy-ins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Down to level 60 with buy-ins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These numbers mean the minimum number of buy-ins that you must have to a certain level and when you should go down a level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you want to play SNG tournaments of $ 2, your bankroll should be $ 100. If your bankroll drops to $ 60 or less, switch to the $ 1 SNG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play $ 10 SNG, the bankroll should be $ 500. The bankroll has dropped below $ 300? Change to the $ 5 SNG. No need to take into account the rake calculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cash games, is the same thing with just one more detail: if you play with full stack, the value of each buy-in is the sum of 100 big blinds. If you are a shortstacker each buy-in is worth 20 big blinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to play 6-max 0.10-0.20, your bankroll should be $ 2000. If your bankroll drops below $ 1200, go to the games of 0.05-0.10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are entering a shortstacker with 20% of the buy-in, your bankroll at 6-max from 010 to 0.20 to be $ 400. Where to stay under $ 240, get off of level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T00:52:38.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-20T01:02:33.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my circle of friends, our Settlers of Catan games started sprawling uncontrollably, so we started playing with a clock that gave, I believe, one minute per turn and saved our spare time to use in future turns. (It also handled the switchback start for initial placement. We're all software engineers so writing our own wasn't especially difficult.) After playing with the clock for a few games we got the hang of how to speed the game along, especially thinking and planning ones' next move between turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It also helped that we all had roughly the same level of experience with Catan, so no one felt especially overwhelmed by the idea of jumping unprepared into the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T01:02:33.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="662" CreationDate="2010-10-20T01:46:42.960" Score="11" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21763/mr-jack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Jack&lt;/a&gt; a balanced game, or do experienced gamers tend to win more often with either the Inspector or Jack the Ripper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T12:41:29.597" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T12:41:29.597" Title="Is Mr. Jack balanced?" Tags="|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="307" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:03:17.450" Score="41" ViewCount="21921" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I enjoy playing board games (having gotten hooked on Settlers of Catan and expanded from there) but we don't often have the opportunity to play with other people. The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9/what-cooperative-board-games-are-there-that-i-could-safely-play-with-my-wife&quot;&gt;What cooperative board games are there that I could safely play with my wife?&lt;/a&gt; is similar but we're less concerned about avoiding conflict and more interested in gameplay. (The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4/good-board-games-for-single-player&quot;&gt;Good board games for single player&lt;/a&gt; is also similar.) What board games are good for two players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Having done a poor job in limiting the scope of my question, since there are clearly too many board games to list them all, let me try to clarify. I'm looking for games with similar scope, time requirements, cost, and complexity to &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; that play well with two adult players. I'm not especially concerned by the level of cooperation or competition required, but I'd like to avoid anything especially blood-thirsty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T01:10:22.060" Title="Board games for two players" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="28" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-10-15T16:48:59.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:13:54.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a ton of variables to deal with, such as where everyone else has already placed, the numbers on the resources, and nearby ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always like to try and get my brick/wood combo on my first placement, because that's absolutely necessary for roads and settlements.  For my second placement, I'll go for whatever I'm lacking.  If you have to skip out on a resource, I generally skip out on ore, because you don't need it until late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are always exceptions -- I'm a sucker for a high-number resource with a matching port nearby.  I'm also a sucker for placing two settlements so I can get both numbers -- yesterday I managed to get lumber and brick on 6's -- instant roads for every six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Seafarers, can't help you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:13:54.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:18:50.687" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=48&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; -- the game is better with more people, but you can certainly play it with two people, and since it's a tile-laying game, the board will always be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the game bogs down with expansions, but the core set (with or without the River Expansion), is a lot of fun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:18:50.687" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="215" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:23:10.207" Score="16" ViewCount="7893" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any other board games that have similar game mechanics to &lt;strong&gt;Risk&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T23:53:48.330" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T23:53:48.330" Title="What games are similar to Risk?" Tags="|recommendations|risk|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-02-17T23:53:56.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8870" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:30:47.567" Score="20" ViewCount="19151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;strong&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Europe&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/520/axis-allies-europe&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; quite a few times now. It seems that Germany always wins by rushing for Moskva in all the games I've played. Usually USA never plays an important role, coming late to Europe.  By the time England is strong enough to invade Germany, the race is more or less over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What good counter strategies against Germany am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T21:08:44.913" LastActivityDate="2017-05-20T08:41:24.133" Title="How can I beat Germany in Axis &amp; Allies: Europe?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:33:58.140" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally think of Axis and Allies as being like advanced Risk.  Also there are all of the different Risk clones, 2210, LoTR, Star Wars, Godstorm and others which introduce slight variants in maps and rules.  Of those I'd recommend 2210, but if you can handle the complexity, which isn't bad in the grand scheme, Axis and Allies is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:33:58.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:45:15.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20963/fury-of-dracula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fury of Dracula&lt;/a&gt; has a fog-of-war mechanic in which one player plays Dracula, whose moves are generally hidden from the other players, while the other players collude (in plain view of both each other and Dracula) to kill Dracula. Everyone knows up front who is playing Dracula, but the other players have to guess what Dracula is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:45:15.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:47:06.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to love Memoir '44 and the Battlelore system by Days of Wonder. Now Fantasy Flight owns the rights to Battlelore and has also released a Westeros version based off George RR Martins A Song of Ice and Fire series.  It's pretty quick and easy to set up and the system itself is very versatile.  With many different games/scenarios/expansions using roughly the same rules you can pick and choose the setting and the exact game in the set that's right for you.  The basic premise involves two players coordinating small units in a single battle on a hex grid based map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also a fan of classic card games including cribbage, which is played with a board, but probably not what you were going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T02:47:06.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:47:25.477" Score="41" ViewCount="59194" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would I set up a good placement in Stratego, especially with bombs and the flag?  What is a good strategy for varying the placement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T16:35:44.680" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T13:19:20.310" Title="What are good placement strategies for Stratego?" Tags="|stratego|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-10-17T19:11:17.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="406" CreationDate="2010-10-20T02:49:12.800" Score="11" ViewCount="6702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any national or world level governing body that holds an annual Championship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T22:28:35.617" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T18:32:29.363" Title="Is there a Risk World Championship?" Tags="|risk|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:01:40.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of the game, the Allies have a significant advantage over the Axis due a variety of reasons, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their combined economic power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fact that there are three Allies playing against two Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US's economic strength and the fact that its richest territories are virtually safe from attack due to their distance from the European and Asian theaters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the Allies have the best chance to win at the start of the game, it would seem to follow that the &quot;best country&quot; would be one of the Allies. Of the three, the US has the most enviable position - they have the strongest economy and their homeland is far away from the Axis powers. Yes, Japan can sink America's Pacific fleet and take Hawaii or Alaska if they so desire, but unless the American player is really green, there's no way Japan should take Eastern or Western US. Therefore, I'd rate the US as the &quot;best country.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That aside, Germany has the strongest position of any one country at the start. They have a good ratio of infantry to tanks to fighters and bombers for offensive maneuvering, and they control the very rich European heartland. Unfortunately, their naval strength is in the Mediterranean and the German player must decide whether to leave them there to reinforce Africa or whether to move them to aid in delaying the Allies controlling the Atlantic. Also, because Russia gets to go first they can greatly reinforce their Western front, thereby slowing any German advance toward Moscow, giving the UK and US an opportunity to build, supply, control the Atlantic, and reinforce Russia via Finland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All said, I'd rank the countries as follows from strongest to weakest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Japan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Germany&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually rate Japan higher than Germany because traditional Allies strategy is to have the US abandon the Pacific and focus 100% on supplying troops to Russia and aiding UK in taking and holding Africa and, ideally, Western Europe. In that scenario, the Axis's chance for victory hinge on Japan. If Russia is to fall, it's usually ideal for Japan to take out Russia's capital rather than Germany, since it's not uncommon for Germany to be under siege by that point in the game. With too little IPC and with the US and UK in Europe, Germany's possession of Russia does it little good. Conversely, if Japan holds Russia she can build tanks and infantry to reinforce Europe, hold southern Asia, or breeze through Africa, depending on what's needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:01:40.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:05:54.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Carcassonne Big Box (containing The Tower, Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, Traders &amp;amp; Builders, and The Princess &amp;amp; the Dragon). I consulted those rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fields do not continue past bridges. This is shown on page 7, using a tile that looks like a + of roads, one of them containing a bridge that looks like it could feasibly not split the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[emphasis theirs] The bridge is &lt;strong&gt;not a crossing!&lt;/strong&gt; One road rune [sic] from left to right across the tile and the other runs from top to bottom across the tile. The &lt;strong&gt;field segments&lt;/strong&gt; are all separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fields do wrap around the edges of the River. This is stated on page 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The field space on the lake and spring tiles wraps around those features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot answer the Catapult question or the Bridges, Castles, and Bazaars question with authority. I would guess the Catapult ones are divided while the Castles ones are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:05:54.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:13:22.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/a&gt;.  (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9209/ticket-to-ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek link&lt;/a&gt;)  The rules are simple, and the game can move fairly quickly with two experienced players.  Since your trying to get to different destinations each time you play, it also provides diversity when playing with two people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:13:22.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:14:08.760" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no hard and fast answer for a good placement in Stratego, in part because as soon as someone learns your regular setup they can easily counter.  Many good strategies can work once but not regularly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, common logic is to keep the flag in the back of your field surrounded by bombs.  Corners are also great because they only require two bombs instead of three to cover.  Both are excellent strategies with the weakness being predictability.  It is still a good idea to protect a flag on as many sides as possible with mines.  Setting up dummy flags with a Sergeant in wait for a miner is also common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite ploys is to leave the flag behind one of the lakes unprotected, or protected only on one side or both as not to be conspicuous.  Many players will assume that the flag is in the back row and go charging past that ignored Lieutenant or Sergeant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also commonly pick one of my three entrances and double bomb it off.  If the other player is set to attack all three fronts evenly it can throw a kink in their plans as they need to move a miner in to clear the way.  Also the miner is sure to be gobbled up as soon as it defuses one of the mines to clear a path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:14:08.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="56" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:20:56.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some rules &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamecabinet.com/sumoRulesBank/DrunterUndDruber.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow, here's some tricky wording.  Emphasis mine for this quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are &lt;strong&gt;more yes votes than no votes&lt;/strong&gt; then the player lays the tile in the normal way. If however the number of no votes &lt;strong&gt;beats&lt;/strong&gt; the yes votes then the player returns the tile to his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It clearly says &quot;Yes &gt; No&quot; to place the tile. However, it doesn't actually say &quot;No &gt; Yes;&quot; rather, it says &quot;No &lt;em&gt;beats&lt;/em&gt; Yes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of that is that the number of &lt;strong&gt;yes votes must be strictly greater than the no votes&lt;/strong&gt; to cover a toilet; otherwise, including on a tie, the nos have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:20:56.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:21:31.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/117/ta-yu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ta Yü&lt;/a&gt; is one of my favorite 2 player games.  It is a tile placing game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player plays a tile in the middle of a large square gridded board.  The tiles are 2x1 blocks that have a river section on them with 3-4 outlets on each tile.  Each player in turn plays tiles which have to match the river flow.  The object is to direct river outlets to opposite sides of the board.  One player controls the top and bottom of the board, the other controls the left and right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The score at the end is the product of the number of river outflows on each side.  This forces each player to work in two directions for themselves while frustrating their opponent on two directions as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly anyone can pick up the basics of the game quickly and it rewards repeated play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a really good three player version, but it requires that all 3 people have some experience with the game first as the players need to bid at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T22:03:29.720" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T22:03:29.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="235" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:30:27.957" Score="8" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Royal Garden states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At game end, the owner of the occupied royal garden takes 1 VP for each noble on his &lt;strong&gt;island&lt;/strong&gt;.  As each noble is normally worth 1 VP (whether on a building, plantation or in San Juan), with the occupied royal garden each is worth 2 VPs to that player&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico defines &quot;island&quot; as the twelve spaces at the bottom of the board to place plantation tiles; the Royal Garden states that you get 1 VP for each noble on his &lt;strong&gt;island&lt;/strong&gt; (which I would assume means &quot;nobles on plantations&quot;) but then goes on to state that nobles in San Juan and buildings are worth 1 extra VP as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... which is it?  Do nobles on island tiles get the extra VP, or nobles on your entire board get the extra VP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T21:30:10.130" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T00:59:00.717" Title="Clarification on the Royal Garden from Puerto Rico expansion 2" Tags="|puerto-rico|puerto-rico-expansion-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="234" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:32:39.653" Score="31" ViewCount="15641" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which type of ports do you find more useful in Settlers of Catan, General 3-to-1 ports or 2-to-1 ports for a specific resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T06:10:08.243" Title="Are general 3-to-1 or specific 2-to-1 ports better in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:33:01.430" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be playing in a format that mandates it. One example is &lt;em&gt;Commander&lt;/em&gt;, which uses a deck of precisely 100 cards, with no cards repeated save basic land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T20:08:45.167" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T20:08:45.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:35:45.963" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule in all cases is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A field is contiguous only if there is an unbroken path of green on the tile(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large wooden bridge does not interrupt the green so it does not break the field.  Everything else you mentioned does except for the path around the well/pond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:35:45.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:42:12.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I really enjoy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/50/lost-cities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HSkx8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a pretty simple card game, but there is a fair amount of depth to it, and only takes around 30 minutes to finish 3 rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="4" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T02:12:28.947" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T02:12:28.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:44:23.990" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the initial layout you want to try to identify which resources will be scarce and dominate them.  At the same time you want to try to identify which resources will be plentiful and dominate them and position yourself for the related 2-1 port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unusual that you will be able to accomplish all of that :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the layout is down, and folks have placed their initial cities you can then work to determine if you will have significant extra of a commodity.  If so, see if you can angle towards the 2-1 port.  If not, the 3-1 can work out just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:44:23.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:44:55.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, a player's &lt;strong&gt;island&lt;/strong&gt; is their game board, unless explicitly referring to plantations.  Its semantically tricky, as the island on the board contains San Juan which is implicitly the player's city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit, that's kind of shaky reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to the Royal Garden explicitly, an unofficial translation of the original rules was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At game’s end the owner of the Garden&#xA;  gains 2 VP for each Noble he owns&#xA;  instead of the usual 1VP/Noble. This&#xA;  is true wherever his Nobles are:&#xA;  building, plantation, San Juan, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/43381/english-rules-v1-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it makes more sense in terms of design as the rest of the expansion clearly wants you to place Nobles on buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T03:44:55.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T03:51:46.750" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8217/san-juan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;San Juan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is a really fun game that works well with two players (although it plays up to 4). Puerto Rico is a very popular and highly acclaimed board game; San Juan is its card-driven little brother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LNdT9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you are responsible for developing the city of San Juan by growing crops and building buildings.  There are many viable strategies, so the game changes from one play to the next, and it's a lot of fun to discover just what those viable strategies are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not a whole lot of direct interaction with your opponent in the game, although the decisions you make are certainly heavily influenced by what your opponent is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="4" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T02:14:01.520" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T02:14:01.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:11:32.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History of the World&lt;/strong&gt; is played much like &lt;strong&gt;Risk&lt;/strong&gt;.  There are 7 epochs.  During each epoch a player takes control of a different empire from the past.  They expand and conquer as much as they can (this part plays out very similar to Risk).  Next epoch they play a new vibrant empire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring is based on area control at the end of each player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last year a new edition was released called, &lt;strong&gt;A Brief History of the World&lt;/strong&gt; which is supposed to play to completion quicker.  I haven't yet tried it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T04:11:32.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:18:17.097" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple Bureaucrat's are generally a good investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to limit the total number of Action cards in your deck that do not give +Actions.  They are all dead ends.  If there are several cards that give +Actions, maybe you can get a few extra Bureaucrat's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silver is a pretty good turn early in the game, but you need to progress to gold and Provinces.  If there is a way that you can trash Bureaucrats in the mid to late game, that would be advantageous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T04:18:17.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:23:23.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife's favorite game is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5716/balloon-cup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Balloon Cup&lt;/a&gt;. 2-player only, plays quickly, nice components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T04:23:23.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:43:03.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two variants of games that are originally better suited to 3+ people:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/30746/ticket-to-ride-switzerland&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Switzerland&lt;/a&gt; brings a board that is far tighter than the original (or the European variant). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7717/carcassonne-the-castle&quot;&gt;Carcassonne: The Castle&lt;/a&gt; is explicitly a two-player game in which the building the courtyard of the castle is constricted by the walls.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T04:43:03.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:56:03.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, I find that 2-to-1 ports are more valuable. They produce resources of your choice at half again the rate as 3-to-1, and you will usually have a resource that you will have a surplus of and can shoot for the 2-to-1 in that resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it does depend on the circumstances; sometimes, you just can't reach the appropriate 2-to-1 or really have an even balance of resources, and it's better to shoot for a 3-to-1 instead. But I'd say that all else being equal, a 2-to-1 that you have a good chance of a surplus in is preferable to 3-to-1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T19:37:24.013" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:37:24.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="203" CreationDate="2010-10-20T04:58:58.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree - this has always bugged me about the Tsuro rules. What we've done is:&#xA;Whenever a player is eliminated, if there are players who are short tiles, then starting with the player holding the dragon, go around clockwise and give each player who is short one more tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that works best and spreads out the influx of new tiles on a player death. My concern with giving all the new tiles to whoever's holding the dragon is that it's not fair to the other players who may &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; be short tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="114" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T04:58:58.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:08:37.560" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Kosmos_two-player_series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kosmos 2-player series&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;; not all of the games are great, but most of them are solid, and they're all geared specifically for two players, they come in small and easily portable boxes, and they're generally reasonably light while having just enough strategic depth to keep them interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/394/kahuna&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kahuna&lt;/a&gt;, as I find the gameplay a bit more strategically interesting than most, and my girlfriend likes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4396/odins-ravens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Odin's Ravens&lt;/a&gt; best. I've heard good things about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/50/lost-cities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/a&gt;, but never had a chance to play it. There are many good games in the series; you can try sorting them by rank on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/78/kosmos-two-player-series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;, and look through the first few pages to find the best ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7uU6R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kahuna box cover; an aerial view of verdant tropical islands, arranged in the shape of a handprint.&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s8iQD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lost Cities box cover; two adventurers stand in the gate of a ruin, with sunlight streaming from above.&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3iok.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Odin&amp;#39;s Ravens box cover; An old bearded man with a spear and horned helm stands, with two ravens flying past&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T16:21:05.543" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T16:21:05.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:26:49.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/29109/dust&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dust&lt;/a&gt;, which is set in an alternate World War II. There you have mechs and tanks, submarines and destroyers, bombers and fighters. New additions also include character-based powers, fortified positions and capitals. Unlike vanilla RISK, it uses a VP track to determine victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the interesting part of the combat is that tanks soak damage before mechs, fighters soak damage before bombers and destroyers soak damage before submarines (If I recall correctly). Mechs, Bombers and Submarines provide more offense in the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official site for the game is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T05:26:49.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="268" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:33:16.330" Score="13" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I stay strong enough to avoid being eliminated while at the same time avoid being too strong and making myself a target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T03:02:29.947" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T18:14:30.657" Title="How to Maintain the Balance of Power on Risk?" Tags="|risk|balance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="472" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:38:07.697" Score="3" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a player takes a card from the Chancery, can he only take the top card, or can he look through the entire pile from the Chancery and picks a card he wants (except the one he just sold).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T22:36:52.233" Title="Domaine - How does the Chancery work?" Tags="|domaine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:49:28.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expansion for Pandemic includes a 'bio-terrorist' where one of the players is secretly a 'traitor'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T05:49:28.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T05:52:17.267" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20551/shogun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shogun&lt;/a&gt; is another similar game. The combat is different in this game (you are not using dice at all) but gathering resources and conquering other provinces (which act like countries in Risk) has the same basic principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T05:52:17.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:00:55.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with backstabbing in a &quot;best time to backstab&quot; is that your ally might also backstab you or be expecting you to backstab. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once backstabbed France when I was England. We could have won a two way victory. But I saw He was getting stronger much faster than me, so I backstabbed him and evened our strenghts. The problem was that now I totally lost credibility and was in danger of having to fight my former ally and the third player who was left. We ended up in a three way victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to provide an answer to your question. I think that the best time for a backstab is when you can make it look like to everyone else that you were doing the right thing. And/or already have other allies upon who you can rely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:00:55.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:03:41.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/447332/doom-vs-descent-the-ultimate-showdown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BGG forum topic&lt;/a&gt; is a great comparison of those two games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:03:41.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:04:14.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about Twilight Imperium. We always play and when I explain to someone who is not into the scene what it is I always end up saying:&quot;Ok, do you know Risk? Well it's like that but more complicated&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I guess there are loads of game that then qualify as advanced Risk :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:04:14.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:10:11.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18012/ozymandia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ozymandia&lt;/a&gt; is simultaneous Risk, simplified to its essence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:10:11.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:14:10.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an entire &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/What_to_Play_With_Your_Spouse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of lists&lt;/a&gt; of games to play with your loved one on Board Game Geek. My wife enjoys the Settlers of Catan card game, but some people hate it. I recommend the Kosmos two-player games, particularly Odin's Ravens and Balloon Cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T06:22:26.393" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:22:26.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:26:23.003" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many games with a &quot;traitor&quot; or &quot;uninformed majority&quot; type mechanics. In some of them, such as Mafia and Are You The Traitor?, that is the main point of the game; you are trying to discover each person's role, with not much else on top of that. In others, it's a more incidental feature, usually involving the win conditions for each player or team, but with more traditional gameplay mechanics for the main duration of the game. In the following descriptions, I sketch only out how the &quot;traitor&quot; mechanics work for each game, not how the whole game works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafia_%28party_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mafia&lt;/a&gt;, also known as Werewolf or Assassin, which is probably the most well known, and one of the oldest, of the genre. In its most basic form (using Werewolf terminology), you have two Werewolves, one Seer, and the rest are Villagers, though only the Werewolves know who each other are. Each day, everyone (Villagers, Seer, and Werewolves) try to decide who the Werewolves are, and hang one person. Each night, the Werewolves silently and secretly choose one person to kill. Each night, the Seer gets to discover, silently and secret, whether one player is the Werewolf. The humans (Villagers and Seer) win if they kill both of the Werewolves, the Werewolves win if they equal the humans in number. The Seer is trying to help guide the Villagers to kill the Werewolves instead of innocent Villagers, without revealing himself as he will be killed by the Werewolves the next night (unless he identifies both of them openly; but of course, a Werewolf could also claim to be the Seer...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Traitor/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Are You The Traitor?&lt;/a&gt; from Looney Labs, there is a Key-Holder, trying to deliver a key to the Good Wizard, while the Evil Wizard tries to get the key instead (only the wizards know which is which). The Guards are trying to help the Key-Holder get the key to the Good Wizard, but there's a Traitor in their midst, who's trying to (secretly) reveal to the Evil Wizard who has the key, without being caught by the Guards. The Good team wins if the Key-Holder delivers the key to the Good Wizard, or the Guards catch the Traitor. The evil team wins if the Key-Holder accidentally delivers the key to the Evil Wizard, the Guards attack someone other than the Traitor, or the Evil Wizard catches the Key-Holder is before the Key-Holder delivers the key (the Traitor can never win directly, only by communicating secretly to the Evil Wizard). It's an interesting twist on traitor mechanics, lots of different roles, all with very different goals, but still has the basics of the traitor mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The multi-player version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Homeworlds/HomeworldsRules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;, an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icehouse_pieces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Icehouse game&lt;/a&gt; has a traitor mechanic, though the 2 player version, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Andy/Games/ILoveHomeworlds.html#BinaryHomeworlds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Binary Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;, is more popular. In the multi-player version, players are secretly assigned Good and Evil roles. The basic mechanics of the game are an abstract strategy game, in which players are trying to eliminate each other (I won't go into the details, as they aren't relevant to the traitor mechanic). The Good players are on a team; they win if all Evil players are eliminated. Each Evil player is playing for themselves; they win if they eliminate any other player, Good or Evil. So, Good players are all cooperating, and Evil players are all competing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bang!&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bang!&lt;/a&gt; is a spaghetti western card game, with a Sheriff who is known to everyone, and Deputies, Outlaws, and a Renegade. The Outlaws are trying to kill the Sheriff, the Sheriff and Deputies are trying to kill the Outlaws and Renegade, and the Renegade is trying to be the last man standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/picture/napoleon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Napoleon&lt;/a&gt; is a trick-taking card game (played with ordinary playing cards) originally from Japan (and apparently over 100 years old, though not in its exact present form). 10 cards are dealt to each player, and two blinds are left. The players bid a number of tricks and a trump suit, similar to Bridge. The winning bidder is Napoleon. He names another card, and the player who has that card becomes his General (but only the General knows that); they together need to make the bid to win the game. Napoleon now gets to take the two blinds, and discard two cards; if the card he named was one of the blinds, he's playing alone, with no General. The game is then played as a trick taking game with the named trump. No one but the General knows who that is, and Napoleon and the General (or Napoleon alone) are playing on a team against the other players, who are also on a team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/shadowsovercamelot/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative game, but there is a variant in which one player might be a traitor (or there may be no traitor). The players are working together against the game, but the traitor will try and sabotage the progress of the other players while remaining undiscovered. The loyal knights may accuse someone of being the traitor; if they're correct, they get an advantage, if they're wrong, they're set back; of course, depending on the game, there might not even be a traitor. If the traitor remains secret until the end of the game, he can set the players back and turn victory into defeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indieboardsandcards.com/resistance.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Resistance&lt;/a&gt; you are a group of resistance fighter running missions against a corrupt and evil government. However, there are government spies in your midst. You need to complete three out of five missions successfully, without a spy sabotaging the mission. Each round, a new player is the leader, and must select a team, trying to choose only loyal resistance fighters and no spies. After selecting the team, the players vote on whether that team should be formed. If the spies sow discord, and no team can be formed after 5 tries, the spies win and the government crushes the resistance. Otherwise, they go on the mission; but any spies on the mission have the chance to sabotage it, causing it to fail. If they do, however, they risk being found out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T05:12:50.493" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T05:12:50.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:28:33.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6268/maze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maze&lt;/a&gt; is a chess-like game that is cooperative. It's basically a puzzle where each player moves the pieces on his side of the board. The publisher specializes in cooperative games, but most of them are for kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:28:33.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:39:38.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered games that are more like puzzles? They can still be competitive, but it's more of a race than a fist fight. The best example I can think of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/51/ricochet-robots&quot;&gt;Ricochet Robots&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar category is deduction games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2392/mastermind&quot;&gt;Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; and its relatives &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/165/black-box&quot;&gt;Black Box&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3066/zone-x&quot;&gt;Zone X&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For another kind of puzzle game, see if you can track down &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1572/situation-4&quot;&gt;Situation 4&lt;/a&gt;. It's a competitive jigsaw puzzle. (I'm not kidding.) This is mostly aimed at kids, but I find the idea hilarious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:39:38.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:47:11.760" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to ease the competitive pressure is to play silly games so that the players don't take them too seriously. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/&quot;&gt;Cheapass Games&lt;/a&gt; are a good choice, with Kill Dr. Lucky being my favourite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like dexterity games for the same reason. Some have a bit of strategy, but nobody takes them too seriously. I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/150/pitchcar&quot;&gt;Pitch Car&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2596/villa-paletti&quot;&gt;Villa Paletti&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1231/bausack&quot;&gt;Bausack&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/380/polarity&quot;&gt;Polarity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:47:11.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:47:41.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=58&amp;amp;esem=1&quot;&gt;Knizia's Lord of the Rings game&lt;/a&gt; is the only truly cooperative game I know of. The players are playing against the board so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people like it because of the &quot;working together to reach a goal&quot; without a human adversary element (most other coop games feature one player to be the 'bad guy').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T06:47:41.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:50:42.937" Score="7" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations or variants for playing Crokinole? We say that you have to stay seated in your chair with at least one cheek touching to make your shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditorDisplayName="anon77" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T02:52:40.323" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T17:50:36.003" Title="House rules for Crokinole?" Tags="|house-rules|crokinole|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="469" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:53:56.323" Score="10" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Shark I think the game ends in one of two ways.  Either one company reaches 15 points, or one pile of counters runs out.  In the first case what happens if a company &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; reach 16 points?  In the second case does the game end immediately after placing the counter, or does it continue until that colour is rolled again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T17:47:39.643" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T17:47:39.643" Title="Game end in Shark" Tags="|scoring|shark|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="341" CreationDate="2010-10-20T06:59:18.687" Score="6" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any (official/unofficial) alternatives to the major improvements in Agricola?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T17:36:58.813" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:50:08.000" Title="Alternative major improvements for Agricola" Tags="|house-rules|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="247" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:04:07.590" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hold a medium-to-small sized continent (like South America or Africa) and avoid aggression while you build up.  Attempting to take Asia, Europe, or North America will raise a lot of red flags, and Australia's defensibility makes it suspicious too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RISK is defined in the later game by the ridiculous armies you get when trading in cards, so your main task is to be in the position to trade in for a lot, then bust out of your home and take another continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T07:04:07.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:18:04.537" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't gain anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pilebunker's actual wording is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Opponents reveal their hands, trash their largest [Gem chip], &lt;strong&gt;then gain&lt;/strong&gt; that many [1 Gem chip]s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's &quot;then gain&quot;, not &quot;then you gain&quot; - each opponent gains the 1-Gems. &#xA;Pilebunker effectively splits their biggest gem in their hand into 1-gems, diluting their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T14:02:07.427" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:02:07.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:23:22.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games of Descent take MUCH longer! This may be because of the added complexity of a 'role-playing' style game I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base mechanics of both games are mostly the same, so if you need to pick one, go with the one which has the theme that suits you best (fantasy dungeon-crawling or sci-fi/horror shooting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T19:10:00.590" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T19:10:00.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="247" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:24:36.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two sides to Risk, one of them being the actual armies, countries and cards you hold. As lilserf correctly points out, you usually aren't allowed to hold any major continents. I don't quite agree with Australia. It's easy to defend, but it's usually not near the tension and there's the danger that you get isolated, so I don't find it superior over South America or Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the other side of risk that you shouldn't underestimate is your mouth. Making deals, persuading etc, can have a huge impact on how the other players react. The most dangerous thing is often a player getting a lot of armies without really having a plan of what to do. Here the weapon is not what's on the board, but what's in your mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T07:24:36.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:30:33.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_2210_A.D.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Risk 2210 A.D.&lt;/a&gt;.  Basically a faster, more Aggressive risk (also more luck and less strategy, but this does not take away from the fun of nuking a continent :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.questforthedragonlords.com/aboutthegame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quest for the Dragonlords&lt;/a&gt; also plays a little like risk, but, to be honest, fails miserably at being any fun to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T06:51:18.407" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T06:51:18.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:38:30.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knizia's Lords series (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/10908/minotaur-lords&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minotaur Lords&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funagain.com/control/product?product_id=013910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scarab Lords&lt;/a&gt;) is a lot of fun for a 2 player head-to-head card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It incorporates elements from area domination, as well as deck customisation (as you would in a trading-card-game). Easy to learn, hard to master!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T07:38:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:58:50.740" Score="9" ViewCount="4481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've discovered that Army Painter is selling a can of pigmented varnish called Quickshare. Has anyone had any experience with this or other similar products? On the pictures I've found models finished with this stuff look really amazing, but I'd like to know if it's really that good, or were the pictures Photoshopped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sample photo comparing different tones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J3q0h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quickshade&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T23:51:56.070" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T23:51:56.070" Title="Is using Quickshade a good way to finish miniature painting?" Tags="|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T07:59:21.170" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt; is a similar game in that its aim is to conquer other players land. However it removes the dice and the element of chance, replacing it with face to face negotiation (making it a much better game IMHO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://webdiplomacy.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;play it online&lt;/a&gt; for a quick taster. There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/index.py&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;lots&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/strategy.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;other&lt;/a&gt; web based learning resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T08:18:47.070" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T08:18:47.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="280" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:37:08.033" Score="27" ViewCount="19755" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's a good game for six players? Many games can be played by 6 players, but suffer from a loss of pace, and long waits between turns. What games have parallel planning phases, or lots of interaction during turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one game per answer please (from now on) for voting purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="31" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T18:38:28.893" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T19:32:00.523" Title="Recommendations for 6-player board game" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="23" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:36:21.453" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:44:22.627" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides a few mentioned above I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt; as a two player game as well as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/69789/ascension-chronicle-of-the-godslayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ascension&lt;/a&gt; (so far).&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BOuAL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dominion&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dfyIj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ascension&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T09:14:49.630" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T09:14:49.630" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:45:38.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15987/arkham-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt; is the great game for that purpose, especially if you add some expansions to it to make it a bit more harder (core set will be quite easy for so big group of Investigators). You don't wait too long between turns because players take actions in phases and these are resolved pretty quick. And the game is also tons of tun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T08:45:38.647" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:48:01.243" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of good (and bad) times to back stab, I'm not sure there is an out and out correct answer. This is one of the fun aspects of Diplomacy: its variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, early back stabbing is probably almost always best avoided, as you will probably lose credibility with the other players if they think you are unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the best back stabs are against players you have had very long alliances with, when they least expect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also sometimes wait until I have a (usually hidden) alliance with another player, against the same player I am planning to back stab. That way they get hit with a double whammy and you have an extra level of insurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, just past the 5th playing hour, as the tiredness and alcohol kicks in, if my experiences are anything to go by, is usually a good time to back stab and lose friends ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T13:28:01.313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T13:28:01.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:48:35.690" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Catan has an Expansion that allows for two more players to join in on the fun. The rules have been adapted for intermediate building phases in between player turns, which helps prevent long downtimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twilight Imperium (Although a pretty hardcore game) allows for 6 players out of the box (I believe). It also has a pretty cool action sequence system in play that makes all players make small moves one at a time, instead of one long turn. Downtime between turns is also minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the more lighthearted games : Koehandel (Don't know the english name), The big Dalmuti, Set and Jungle Speed are all 6+player games, which are also quick and fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T20:19:33.320" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:19:33.320" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:48:54.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/221/samurai-swords&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Samurai Swords&lt;/a&gt; (also known as Shogun) as a kid. It's a lot like Risk, with several unit types, more complex battles, and more territories. It takes forever though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T08:48:54.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="286" CreationDate="2010-10-20T08:54:22.930" Score="29" ViewCount="3899" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two children aged 8 and 6 and they like to play board games.  Some of the ones they have are for very young children and boring for an adult to play.  Are there any suggestions for games that they will understand and I can enjoy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="130" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:46:30.133" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T05:57:42.047" Title="Interesting boardgames to play with children" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="30" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:36:10.707" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:01:02.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not in really fast paced games (Where doing something stupid can really be a mood-lifter) like Mag-Blast for example. Almost all other games shouldn't be played too competitively. Usually you don't get to take back a move as soon as an effect of the move is being resolved (dice/cards/etc), but before that, absolutely no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of chess: Touch a piece, and that will be the one you are moving. Let it go, and it is set! (I must admit that I treat chess more like a sport than a game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="121" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T08:13:49.560" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T08:13:49.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="294" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:02:09.843" Score="14" ViewCount="2933" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt; only seems to have one set &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/s2kjz&quot;&gt;available to buy widely&lt;/a&gt; that I am aware of, built by Gibson Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's nothing special, an averagely constructed cardboard board with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/371445/diplomacy&quot;&gt;plastic piece&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other officaly distributed boxes available? Preferably available to order online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also lots of variations of Diplomacy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/Online/variants.html&quot;&gt;available online&lt;/a&gt;, have any of these made it 'into the wild'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2011-11-17T11:15:25.263" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T11:15:25.263" Title="Official Diplomacy sets, variations and where to buy" Tags="|variants|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:17:04.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to admit I have not yet tried it but I have two children aged 6 at home and I just bought a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16440/the-alley-cats-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Alley Cats&lt;/a&gt; on ebay hoping it will be the game we can play with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T09:17:04.253" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:18:10.517" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Legendary &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2223/uno&quot;&gt;Uno&lt;/a&gt;. Its card game. Description from BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players race to empty their hands and&#xA;  catch opposing players with cards left&#xA;  in theirs, which score points. In&#xA;  turns, players attempt to play a card&#xA;  by matching its color, number, or word&#xA;  to the topmost card on the discard&#xA;  pile. If unable to play, players draw&#xA;  a card from the draw pile, and if&#xA;  still unable to play, they pass their&#xA;  turn. Wild and special cards spice&#xA;  things up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T09:18:10.517" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:24:53.170" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3955/bang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bang&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description from BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four different Roles are available, each with a unique victory condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheriff - Kill all Outlaws and the Renegade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deputy - Protect the Sheriff and kill any Outlaws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outlaw Kill the Sheriff &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Renegade - Be the last person standing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player's Role is kept secret, except for the Sheriff. Character cards are placed face-up on table, and also track strength (hand limit) in addition to special ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastEditorUserId="42" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T10:58:12.327" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T10:58:12.327" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="512" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:26:13.767" Score="3" ViewCount="2100" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meeplepeople.com/products.php?cat=44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MeeplePeople&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameextras.co.uk/index.php?sub_category=Extra+Player+Sets&amp;amp;category=Carcassonne&amp;amp;sub_cat=1&amp;amp;cat=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameExtras&lt;/a&gt; carrying replacement/extra sets for Carcassonne. I am however missing Mayor, Farm and the Cart(?) from those sets (possibly some expansion I have not played has other tokens as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can get extra/replacement parts for the full range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditorDisplayName="anon77" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:15:56.853" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:15:56.853" Title="Carcassonne: Replacement/Extra player sets." Tags="|carcassonne|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:28:34.893" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I and my gf loves &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Race For The Galaxy&lt;/a&gt;. This game is still very interesting when playing 2, 3 or 4 persons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OXxKR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T09:28:34.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:49:59.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some bigger wargames can be played in teams as three-v-three games.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1499/world-in-flames&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World in Flames&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7614/a-world-at-war&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A World at War&lt;/a&gt; come immediately to mind as monsters that play better with teams than one-on-one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more competitive, individualistic game, I adore &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1513/the-republic-of-rome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Republic of Rome&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T09:49:59.333" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T09:51:04.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/prod/betrayalhouse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Betrayal at the House on the Hill&lt;/a&gt; is rather light and is fast-paced even at 6 players. You plays as a character exploring a haunted house, and your available option before the scenario is revealed is to move, turn up a new tile and draw a card. When a scenario starts, and the traitor is revealed, the turn could stretch longer because of combat, but it is still quite fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Song of Ice and Fire features simultaneous hidden orders. Aside from the analysis paralyze typical of the game and resolution, the hidden order feature makes the game faster than other war-games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T09:51:04.370" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:00:35.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My old favourite, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt;, isn't particularly fast paced (although the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/Online/variants2.html#g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;'Gunboat' variant&lt;/a&gt; speeds things up considerably), but both the diplomacy and move planning phases take place in parallel. Only the actual moving of pieces is done one after the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The diplomacy stage, when you face any or all of your opponents face to face, in secret, or in the open, is of course as interactive as it can get!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T10:00:35.000" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:02:12.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/24037/avalon-hill-hasbro-edition&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;original Hasbro Edition&lt;/a&gt; is probably the physically best edition ever made - much better than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/Avalon-Hill-221930000AVH-Diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;current&lt;/a&gt; US version with cardboard counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other highly recommended edition is the 1992 &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0032O9REG&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deluxe Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt; by Avalon Hill, which turns up very occasionally and very expensively on eBay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only professionally printed Dip variants I know of are Colonial Diplomacy and Machiavelli.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="49" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T12:53:39.253" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T12:53:39.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:33:17.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pictionary is always good for a laugh. Or you could also try Balderdash (or Absolute Balderdash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T10:33:17.983" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:37:51.937" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible (although you need luck on your side) for Germany to take the UK capital on their first turn....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, each country has its own strategy, so my thinking is that it ultimately comes down to choice and style of play. I personally like going Russia for the additional challenge...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T10:37:51.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="420" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:43:36.653" Score="6" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any other games in the Cluedo series that has the same characters? The only other one I could find was The Great Museum Caper...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T23:46:15.947" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T23:46:15.947" Title="Cluedo and the Great Museum Caper characters" Tags="|cluedo|cluedo-the-great-mystery-caper|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="301" CreationDate="2010-10-20T10:45:36.303" Score="6" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you able to use magic/tricks (e.g. a Teleport spell) to circumvent the final creature, and thus win the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T11:20:48.560" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T11:20:48.560" Title="Can you avoid the Boss in Munchkin Quest?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:34:31.980" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hands down, &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/games.html?id=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt; is fantastic.  Whenever our gaming group has a game night, Power Grid gets played at some point.  The nice thing is it comes with two different boards, and if you get tired of those, there are expansions for around $10-$15 that come with two new maps and rules.  Once you get the rules down, even with six players, we've found it plays incredibly fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=51&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/a&gt; expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;, you can play with six players, and Carcassonne is another personal favorite of mine.  It's fun to watch people figure out how to sneak their meeples into a city or farmland for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something lighthearted, sets from the Munckhin series such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/goodbadmunchkin/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Good, the Bad and the Munchkin&lt;/a&gt; are fun for playing, and have plenty of interaction between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T11:34:31.980" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="297" CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:40:18.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a long list of &lt;em&gt;official&lt;/em&gt; Clue variants which can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cluedo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cluedo&lt;/a&gt;.  According to wikipedia, &quot;The great-museum-caper&quot; is not an official variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[This Answer was edited to improve it's value.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastEditorUserId="133" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T05:58:07.110" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T05:58:07.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="298" CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:46:17.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules seem pretty clear on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No card or power will let you bypass this combat!&#xA;  The Boss ignores any rules, cards, or powers that&#xA;  would take it out of the Entrance. It can never be&#xA;  controlled and will never ignore a Level 10&#xA;  munchkin for any reason, even if its card says it will.&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;It always fights.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pretty much have to fight the boss... while teleporting him away would be the Munchkinly thing to do, you'll have to slug it out with the boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T11:46:17.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T11:49:23.797" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastermind_%28board_game%29&quot;&gt;Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; - It's only playable by two people at a time (and one of them will have to be you), but my mom got it for me when I was about 7 or 8 and I &lt;em&gt;loved&lt;/em&gt; it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I still have it and even broke it out again the other night.  It's challenging, educational, and it's a game that makes kids &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt;, but can be just as rewarding for adults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T11:49:23.797" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T12:08:58.320" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt;. A deep, strategic game, which excels as a two player contest. There is plenty of interaction in blocking your opponents moves, plus the card sets ensure no two games are exactly the same. Should make for some good cut and thrust gaming fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T12:08:58.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T12:17:00.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one mentioned the great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gipf.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Project GIPF&lt;/a&gt; series yet.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's a series of six abstract games for two players. I played three of them, we own two of them (DVONN and TZAAR) and they are our favorite two-player games. We play them &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user135" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T12:17:00.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="314" CreationDate="2010-10-20T12:18:26.783" Score="12" ViewCount="2843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to show some card games to my kids (4 and 6), but they have difficulty holding the cards in their hands. Maybe it's because their hands are too small, or not strong enough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a trick to help them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T18:49:07.230" LastActivityDate="2020-06-01T19:16:05.660" Title="How to help kids to hold their cards in their hands ?" Tags="|kids|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="311" CreationDate="2010-10-20T12:29:37.977" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Patience is the only thing I can think of, with my kids (aged 6) I started by fanning them out and place them in their hands finished, lately they collect them and take a grip and I only fan them out for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative just buy a couple of Playing Card Holders and worry about it later on :)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1lxOw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card Holder&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These should be available a little everywhere but the image is taken from: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.peta-uk.com/acatalog/Playing_Card_Holder.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peta&lt;/a&gt; (first image of them I found on google image search)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T12:29:37.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:05:22.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00000IWD7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Game of Life&lt;/a&gt; could be good. Your kids should be able to follow what's going on in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:05:22.777" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:10:36.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just checked the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crokinole&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;standard rules on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are any enemy discs on the board, a player must make contact, directly or indirectly, with an enemy disc during the shot. If unsuccessful, the shot disc is 'fouled' and removed from the board, along with any of the player's other discs that were moved during the shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always played with this rule : If there are any enemy discs on the board, a player must &lt;strong&gt;make contact with an enemy disc directly and before making contact with any friendly disk&lt;/strong&gt;  during the shot (bumpers use is tolerated). If he miss, &lt;strong&gt;only the disk shoot by the player is fooled.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:10:36.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:12:17.000" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41833/creationary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creationary&lt;/a&gt;. Especially if the kids already enjoy LEGOs. The game works very similar to Pictionary, but instead of drawing an image for others to guess, you build it with LEGO pieces. The rules allow for a lot of flexibility and also promote the use of other LEGOs to be used to build your creations. It's very fun for adults, but I can imagine that children of 6 and 8 would also enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:12:17.000" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:12:53.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on @lilserf's answer...  An &lt;strong&gt;out&lt;/strong&gt; is a mathematical probability that one player has to win the hand depending on the situation, and they are always used, not just mostly in all-in situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to treat them as probabilities because there is always the chance for runner-runner cards which produce a winning hand.  For instance, if you have three to a flush, and making a flush is your only opportunity to win the hand on the flop, you still have outs even though there isn't a single card in the deck that will put you in the lead on the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:12:53.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:18:06.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite two-player Icehouse games are &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Volcano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volcano&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Binary_Homeworlds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Binary Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category:2-player&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2-player games&lt;/a&gt; on the Icehouse Wiki, but of course, that has tons of games of varying quality. You can find some of the best and most popular games on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Existing_Games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Existing Games&lt;/a&gt; page, which points out out games that have been published and games that have won competitions to help guide you to the games most likely to be good and well known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:18:06.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:19:01.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While @wdypdx22's definition is correct, implied odds cannot be explained completely on a Q&amp;amp;A site.  To fully understand the concept requires an immense amount of study and you will spend the rest of your life refining them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better example of when they effect the outcome of the hand more is for hidden draws.  For instance, if two to a suit come up on the flop, but the turn and river give you a runner runner straight, your opponent is far less likely to put you on the hand you actually made and pay you off more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculating implied odds is more of an art than a science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:19:01.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:27:24.567" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/&quot;&gt;Ticket to ride&lt;/a&gt; is good balance to play with children and parents. Only from 8 though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:27:24.567" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="434" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:28:46.313" Score="8" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies, how many submarines do I need to have a greater than 60% chance to take down a lone aircraft carrier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T23:47:51.803" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T23:47:51.803" Title="How many submarines do I need to take down an aircraft carrier?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|probability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:31:21.533" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the key to Stratego lies in-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover your flag with bombs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kill all enemy miners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO NOT MOVE a new piece when moving an old one will suffice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of those, I find that #3 is the most crucial.  Most players have a very hard time attacking pieces about which they have no information;  every time you touch a piece, or even visibly consider moving it, you inform your opponent that that piece is NOT a bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:31:21.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:43:30.847" Score="9" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[B][5][6][3][1][7][6][6][6] &#xA;[7][B][6][S][2]&#xA;[B][7][B][F][3][4][5]&#xA;[7][B][7][B][9][9][9][9] &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above you have a classic 6 bomb matrix - your opponent will have no choice but to position 8's and 6's to get through it.  This should give you plenty of moves to attack.  Use the top row 7's and 6's to test enemy units. then use the row nearby 1,2,3... to kill enemy units once you know what they are.  Leave the spy near the flag as a failsafe.  Keep the nines close to each other to make a little 9 highway, they can get out of the way of each other very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:43:30.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:48:51.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=278&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt; and its expansions are fantastic with 6 players, although to support 6 you must own both Dominion and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=306&quot;&gt;Dominion: Intrigue&lt;/a&gt;.  Once all players have some experience wait times are very short, and with 6 players the competition for the best Kingdom cards is furious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:48:51.223" CommentCount="11" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T13:58:34.733" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Bohnanza&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players play bean farmers and try to harvest crops to collect coins. This scales up to 7 players and there is a lot of interplayer action on every turn. There is lots of trading between players and the game rewards those who pay attention even when it's not their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T13:58:34.733" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="247" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:00:26.950" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't underestimate the importance of visual cues or psychological warfare;  in games like Risk and Diplomacy, these are the very underpinnings of your negotiation platform.  For example, if you are playing one of the game sets that features little men and cannons, then arrange them on your spaces facing away from one enemy, and massed on the 'border' with another enemy.  It has no in-game effect whatsoever, but sends a very definite visual message, which is interpreted on a subconscious level.  When it comes to your turn to attack, mull over your options, or pretend to be doing some dice-math in your head, while staring down intently at a given enemy.  Even if you don't actually attack, you've conveyed to the rest of the table that you WOULD attack that enemy, if only you COULD, which leads to the &quot;He must be doing too well&quot; syndrome from everyone else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:00:26.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:02:56.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40692/small-world&quot;&gt;Small World&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a game for 2-5 players and is very enjoyable at each size. Two player games go very quickly and I've been known to play several games of this in an evening. The gameplay rarely gets stale, too, because of the nature of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a cooperative game for 2-4 players where each player assumes a role that grants them abilities throughout the game. Each game has the roles randomized, giving each player a chance at a different play style. A two player game is especially challenging, but still a very good time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:02:56.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:03:26.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original has wooden pieces, not plastic. Blocks for the armies and flat pointed ovals for the fleets. But I haven't seen that in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been versions in other languages (at least I know of a Dutch version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry no links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:03:26.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:03:43.760" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd warn against the common tactic of trying to take Australia.  Frequently, its seen as an overly defensible position, leading to an 'early-leader', situation, which itself spawns a coalition effort to break you down or at worst, lock you in Australia.  If you're going to shoot for an early continent, I recommend South America or Africa;  and don't do it turn 1, do it turn 2 or 3.  The reason for that being that the first person to take any continent is going to attract hate; don't let it be you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:03:43.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:07:08.790" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb has always been:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Never backstab an opponent in a way that leaves them capable of retaliation.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:07:08.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:08:38.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely need to have some dirt on Austria;  it will be very difficult for Italy to do well in the face of a hostile Austria.  Even if you join a coalition against Austria early on, you'll find that most of the SCs wind up falling into Turkish hands, rather than yours, leaving you with little better in the way of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:08:38.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:11:11.327" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blokus. My 6 and 10 year old equally love this game of fitting pieces on the board. As a parent I find its even more challenging to work with the stuff my 6 year old does and extend the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blokus encourages creative thinking&#xA;  and has received a Mensa award for&#xA;  promoting healthy brain activity. The&#xA;  goal of this game is for players to&#xA;  fit all of their pieces onto the&#xA;  board. When placing a piece it may not&#xA;  lie adjacent to the player's other&#xA;  pieces, but must be placed touching at&#xA;  least one corner of their pieces&#xA;  already on the board. The player who&#xA;  gets rid of all of their tiles first&#xA;  is the winner and strategic thinking&#xA;  helps as you block moves from your&#xA;  opponent. Blokus sometimes comes to an&#xA;  end because there are no more possible&#xA;  moves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Four players make this abstract game&#xA;  especially fast and exciting; however,&#xA;  it can be just as fun for two or three&#xA;  players. Blokus has come up with a&#xA;  number of different ways to play the&#xA;  game to make it more thrilling when&#xA;  playing with less than four players.&#xA;  Draft Blokus allows a player to use&#xA;  more than one color and Reverse Blokus&#xA;  reverses the entire game so that the&#xA;  person who places the least amount of&#xA;  tiles on the board is the winner. It&#xA;  can even be played in a solitaire&#xA;  version when one player attempts to&#xA;  place all of their pieces in a single&#xA;  sitting. A game of Blokus typically&#xA;  lasts a 30 minutes. As a practical&#xA;  feature, raised edges on the board&#xA;  help keep the tiles in place and allow&#xA;  convenient clean-up. This game&#xA;  includes 84 pieces in four vibrant&#xA;  colors, an instruction guide, and one&#xA;  gameboard with 400 squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T19:26:23.270" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T19:26:23.270" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:14:23.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I just realized I misread the question and answered a way more complicated case than what you asked. In the case where you literally already have three tricks and the other team has one, definitely throw it in. My answer below is for the more complicated case where you know what the final score will be without having played enough tricks to actually decide it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on the group, and it can get complicated. You can be in a situation where you each have one point and you know that you can win two of the next three (without knowing which two), and in my normal group that plays all the time showing your hand is generally fine, since everyone else can figure out pretty fast how you were guaranteed to win. In a new group I've only played with maybe three times I did that and there was mass confusion and I ended up spending about a minute explaining why I was guaranteed to win, which is much longer than it would've taken to just play the hand (and probably just annoyed people)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as it's a friendly game and it's obvious to everyone why it's a win I would do it; if you think you'll need to explain it I would probably just play the hand out anyway, unless you're trying to teach someone how to tell that a hand is won&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T14:53:24.060" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:53:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:18:00.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should only backstab an ally if that means the difference between losing or winning the game. So you shouldn't backstab for 1 or 2 centers. Settle for 3 or more and be sure you can grab them and keep them too. And to mention the obvious, do not backstab in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you backstab often, players remember and refuse to ally with you (or at least the aliances aren't that stable). If you never backstab, players remember too and just walk over you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:18:00.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:20:07.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 12 territories you get +1 unit.  You can achieve in Asia without taking a continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:20:07.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="175" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:24:11.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the etiquette for Rummy is built into the rules. For example, it is etiquette to &quot;call&quot; a Joker as both a card and a suit the instant it is placed on the table within a combo. That said, tournament rules do add a bit of game play to them that you often find implemented in various groups to some extent. I've also been at a new table (mostly with relatives it seems) before and been surprised to see play accepted that is widely considered &quot;coffee-housing.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite on-line help page to point new players at is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rummytalk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rummy Talk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:24:11.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:27:00.677" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 8 year old daughter has really enjoyed playing the Fluxx games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:27:00.677" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:31:31.303" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's more of a card game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt; offers strong player interaction.  Each round, players do a character draft to determine who they'll be in the next round as they try and build up their city.  The game actually plays better with more people, and can seat up to 8 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:31:31.303" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="267" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:38:32.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Z-Man Games has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/agricola/Of%20the%20Moor/OftheMoor_Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Farmers of the Moor&lt;/a&gt; as an expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:38:32.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:42:35.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my precious calculations were simple, just to get a rough idea since you only wanted to know what was needed to get above 60%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now more advanced calculations show (this is not exact, but close)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 sub: less than 50% (around 48%)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 subs: about 87.5%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 subs: 98-100%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can calculate it more precisely, but it won't make much sense though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastEditorDisplayName="user108" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T19:05:09.913" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:05:09.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="349" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:48:56.410" Score="19" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the appeals of traditional games such as Chess, Go, Backgammon, or Poker is the depth that they have acquired over the years; long-standing communities and traditions, wide range of players from different backgrounds, depth of strategic analysis that has occurred over the years, and wide range of skill levels with very strong top players that comes about from years of study and training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many newer games are mere flashes in the pan; fun for a while, but ultimately replaced after a few years with something newer and shinier. Many of them have the potential to gain such depth, but they are crowded in a field of other games, and do not really develop their own independent communities nor a significant pool of people to put in the time and dedication to create a strong competitive system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What recent games (defined as having been invented within the past century or so) have managed to achieve this sort of durability; their own cultures and communities, high-level tournament play, strong strategic analysis and a broad range of player skill? What games have not yet had time to (past 10 years or so), but do you feel have the seeds of such depth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some criteria that can help determine if a game has reached this level. Not all criteria need apply, or may not apply exactly, but the more the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significant tournaments with professional or semi-pro players; or large amateur tournaments at a national or international level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Official rating or ranking system (or more than one) with hundreds of players and a wide range of abilities represented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Significant coverage in mainstream media, not just passing references or coverage in game-specific media.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple independent publications discussing the game specifically (not as one of many, but dedicated to the game in question). Books, magazines, professional level blogs or e-zines, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Professional on-line or software implementations dedicated to this game, or many independent computer implementations in systems which cover multiple games with hundreds of active players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Popularity in groups of people outside of of traditional gamer groups; cultural relevance of the game outside of the gaming community.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple clubs (regional, city, or university) dedicated to this game in particular, not gaming or a particular genre of gaming in general.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-02-02T15:43:30.733" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T18:05:14.407" Title="Lasting  games in the past century" Tags="|recommendations|tournament|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:37:19.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:55:27.850" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Age of Renaissance and Advanced Civilization are two oldies but goodies that play great with 6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They take some time to finish, but it is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/26/age-of-renaissance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Age of Renaissance&lt;/a&gt; is about trading empires in the Mediterranean during the middle ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/177/advanced-civilization&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced Civilization&lt;/a&gt; is about world building in the Mediterranean from the dawn of time up until the Roman republic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:55:27.850" CommentCount="7" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:55:34.230" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shadows over Camelot is one of my favourite 6 player games. Downtime between turns is minimised, because, as a co-operative game, you can always advise the active player, or plan for your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a traitor, you can spend other people's turns giving subtly bad advice, too :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T14:55:34.230" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:57:40.790" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing several games of Warhammer: Invasion Core Set with my friend and a couple of times we've encountered a situation where he had pretty good attack force set up in his battlefield and I has good one as well. But I already had one district burning and he had bunch of damage tokens on two of his districts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I wanted to do in this situation is to attack his forces so his chances for gathering enough strength to finish me off would be smaller. I've attacked his battlefield and what he usually did is he didn't set any defenders and allowed the whole damage to be dealt to his district (even if it meant burning it down). Then in his turn he launch his full force agains one of my other districts and burn it down thus winning the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering are there any cards or rules in this game or it's expansions that would force him to fight me instead of letting all the damage to be dealt to his capital? This would allow for more tactical approach in my opinion because right now his best tactics is to ignore all my attacks and hope to get stronger force to destroy a district in one round then me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T19:30:28.277" Title="Forcing the combat in Warhammer: Invasion" Tags="|warhammer-invasion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-10-20T14:58:45.077" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has all of these things - a distinctive culture, played in tournaments, ranking systems, extensive opening and endgame analysis with named opening patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a still-extant play-by-mail culture, PBEM through the Judges and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conquestofnations.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;string&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playdiplomacy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;of&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://webdiplomacy.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on-line&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.olidip.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;play&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://apps.facebook.com/phpdiplomacy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sites&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was first published in 1958, so it's now 50 years old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a number of amateur tournaments, starting from the early 1970s, up to the annual World DipCon, running since 1988.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a lot of unofficial ranking systems, but there is neither an official one, nor one that covers the diversity of ways to play (websites, PBEM/judges, PBM, face-to-face, tournament).  Many PBM 'zines and most websites have ranking systems for their users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diplomacy got more coverage in the past than it does now, but when Kissinger spends a lot of time talking about the game, you know it's had a mainstream impact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dedicated publications coming out of your ears: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacyworld.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy World&lt;/a&gt; is up to issue 117 (as of April 2012).  I don't think there has ever been a fully-pro periodical, but there are a number of published books.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple independent software implementations - yes, and so much so that there is now a standardised complete test suite for conformance to the rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.inter.nl.net/users/L.B.Kruijswijk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DATC&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Popularity outside of gamer-culture, probably the weakest, though getting a Secretary of State and a President playing is still kinda impressive. JFK played as well as Kissinger; Nixon is thought to have done so.  I dread to imagine playing with both Nixon and Kissinger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clubs,  Oh yes.  75 just counting those listed on one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/DipPouch/Face/hobby_info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;relatively obscure website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastEditorUserId="1450" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T18:05:14.407" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T18:05:14.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="385" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:08:17.473" Score="19" ViewCount="3047" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many times, I have limited space to pack games, and don't know how many players there are going to be. I frequently end up in a situation in which we have 5 players, but games that only work with 3 or 4 players, or something of the sort. In these situations, games which are flexible in the number of players they support are useful; one or two such games can cover most situations you end up in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem is that while many games nominally work with a given number of players, they are really best played with a narrower range of players. For instance, there are many multi-player games that have a two-player variant, but the two-player variant is quite different than the multi-player game, and couldn't really be called the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what games support a wide range of number of players well? Since there are many games which support 2-4 or 3-5 players, let's limit it to games that support at least 4 different player numbers well, such as 2-5 or 3-6 or any odd number from 7 to 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit to add&lt;/strong&gt;: Let's limit this to non-party games; party games as a genre tend to be fairly flexible in the number of players, so it's not all that interesting to list each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T03:17:51.650" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T03:17:51.650" Title="Games that play well with a wide range of different numbers of players" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="27" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:20:44.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:10:19.380" Score="28" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Magic - The Gathering&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This simple looking card game transformed the industry quickly leading to huge tournaments culminating in a World Championship.  It has been going strong for over 15 years and shows no sign of stopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategies mutate and change with every release, but the good players are able to adapt and continue to remain strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournaments&lt;/strong&gt;: The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Events.aspx?x=events/magic/worlds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Championship&lt;/a&gt; is the culmination of many levels of feeder tournaments.  There are a large number of people in many countries that play the game on a semi-pro basis.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Official Rating system&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dci/welcome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;check&lt;/a&gt;, The rating system has been active and supported for over a decade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mainstream coverage&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/1996/02/19/nyregion/magic-casts-a-spell-on-players-there-s-mayhem-and-money-in-fantasy-card-game.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NY Times&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usatoday.com/life/lifestyle/2004-06-20-magic_x.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;USA Today&lt;/a&gt;, GAMES magazine &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamesmagazine-online.com/gameslinks/hallofame.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hall of Fame&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.poetv.com/video.php?vid=34890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;broadcasts on ESPN&lt;/a&gt;, many others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Publications&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;529 book references on Amazon for &quot;Magic the Gathering&quot;, a lot of magazine have publishing price guides and articles for Magic over the years.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scrye&lt;/a&gt; was my favorite back in the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/InQuest_%28magazine%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;InQuest&lt;/a&gt; was another popular magazine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Online or Software support&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two videogames released in 1997 (&lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering: Battlemage&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering Online&lt;/em&gt; was released in 2002 and is still played by hundreds of thousands of people&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T23:52:44.087" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T23:52:44.087" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:14:31.207" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once again I can't recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt; enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base set supports 2-4 players and really plays the same for all of those, and if you also get &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=306&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion: Intrigue&lt;/a&gt; (or a second copy of Dominion, or just some extra copies of a few of the victory cards) you can play with anywhere from 2-6 players.  4 players is probably the &quot;sweet spot&quot; that the game was balanced around, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few basic rules are adjusted based on the number of players - the amount of available victory points and the game end conditions scale with the number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game times will be affected most, naturally - in a 6-player game you'll be waiting longer between turns.  The other factor that changes is competition for cards - in a 2-player game you will mostly be able to get whatever cards you want, while a 6-player game will require more adjusting of your strategy on the fly to respond to cards going to other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, the core gameplay works very well for any number of players from 2 to 6 without excessive special-case 2-player rules or dummy players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T19:57:46.993" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T19:57:46.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2161" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:25:49.117" Score="5" ViewCount="2817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of different terms for the same result in Euchre, but is it just preference or is there more to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Call trump and get all 5 tricks:&lt;/strong&gt; Is this called a &quot;March&quot; and/or a &quot;Euchre&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Earn 3 or more tricks when the opposing team calls trump:&lt;/strong&gt; Is this &quot;Setting Them&quot; and/or &quot;Euchring Them&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T20:42:43.717" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:21:07.357" Title="What's the difference between a Euchre, a March and a Set?" Tags="|euchre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:29:05.020" Score="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmjEq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Battle of Wits card&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, if you have 200 or more cards in your library, you win the game.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;The wizard who reads a thousand books is powerful. The wizard who memorizes a thousand books is insane.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="142" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2023-01-24T19:11:40.473" LastActivityDate="2023-01-24T19:11:40.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:29:31.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your looking for a game that plays well with a lot of people, I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/74/apples-to-apples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt;.  It's word association game, and it lets you play up to 10 people.  I've played it with more then ten people myself, although I do have the expansions to the game which adds a lot more cards.  It's not very strategic though, and a party game at heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, check out the related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/276/recommendations-for-6-player-board-game&quot;&gt;Recommendations for 6-player board game&lt;/a&gt;.  On that post I recommended &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCMQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fboardgamegeek.com%2Fboardgame%2F478%2Fcitadels&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=citadels&amp;amp;ei=kwq_TIz2BYWksQOP-OmODQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFlTedMNp-kx9OGRXqwOBVf3yYAow&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt;, a really good game that plays well with larger crowds, but only up to 8 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T15:29:31.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="351" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:36:51.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is how I've understood it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Calling trump and getting all 5 tricks&lt;/strong&gt; -- that is called a &quot;March&quot;, although I've heard it called &quot;getting a Euchre&quot; which I feel is wrong, because of below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Earn 3 or more tricks when opposing team calls trump&lt;/strong&gt; -- If your opponent calls trump, and you get 3 or more tricks, you have &quot;euchered&quot; or &quot;set&quot; them, and they have been &quot;set&quot; or &quot;euchred&quot;.  These are used interchangably from what I've ever seen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T15:36:51.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="356" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:41:55.573" Score="18" ViewCount="7268" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6/what-is-the-best-way-to-keep-everything-organized-and-spend-less-time-setting-up&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; I received two different recommendations for iPhone specific apps to assist with Dominion setups.  My group uses a third (non iPhone specific).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the best, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please, only one app per answer, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditorDisplayName="anon77" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:05:15.127" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T01:05:15.127" Title="What is the Best Random Card Setup Tool?" Tags="|dominion|recommendations|game-accessories|game-setup|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-30T05:27:11.697" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:46:58.340" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zack Hiwiller's Dominion Card Randomizer is nice. It works fine on laptops and mobile devices, is free, has card images, and has some nice options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&quot;&gt;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downside: requires internet connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T15:46:58.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:47:19.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer - No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to try research when I first learned the game, but now I see no point in it.  I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; seen players who still insist on researching for the off-chance of getting long-range heavy bombers, and then going the whole game without getting it.  That seems like a complete waste to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cause looks close to hopeless, you're probably out of luck anyways.  I guess you could research weapons development as a way to speed up the game and get closer to finishing, instead of buying units, but I rather fight to the finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get an armor for 5 IPC every turn -- I would much prefer that.  Over a few turns, that significantly adds up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T15:47:19.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:48:14.710" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can easily run yourself out of cards if you build a standard-sized deck based around card-drawing, decking mechanics (where you try and exhaust your opponent's deck), or graveyard-pilfering (where you want to get as much stuff into your graveyard as possible). This can quickly happen if you play with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=recycle&quot;&gt;Recycle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=worry%20beads&quot;&gt;Worry Beads&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3589&quot;&gt;Anvil of Bogardan&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39733&quot;&gt;Riptide Director&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4503&quot;&gt;Tolarian Serpent&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=36034&quot;&gt;Cephalid Vandal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=10816&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=34378&quot;&gt;Ambassador Laquatus&lt;/a&gt;... or any of the infinite card drawing combos. These are some of my favourite kinds of decks for casual play, and are routinely large.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another strong argument is if you expect to be on the receiving end of someone trying to 'deck' you. I built a deck specifically for this purpose after getting annoyed with my friend's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=1126&quot;&gt;Millstone&lt;/a&gt; deck. Clearly this is not a general approach, but is handy for wiping the smirk off your regular gaming partner's face. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third reason is if you want to keep your deck general, and include lots of options for dealing with different types of enemies. You can build powerful decks around this approach, using the idea of cycling, digging or searching through your deck with e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=60&quot;&gt;Tutors&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=29293&quot;&gt;Skyship Weatherlight&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25976&quot;&gt;Captain Sisay&lt;/a&gt;, and so on, to find the exact card you need for any situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T15:55:56.720" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T15:55:56.720" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:49:33.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For word games, I like playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001RN88DK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taboo&lt;/a&gt; in large or small groups. It's fairly flexible because you can pair off, or have varied sized teams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T15:49:33.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-10-20T15:53:35.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/idominion/id351815216?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iDominion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT: iDominion has not been updated for several sets - it lacks Cornucopia and Hinterlands&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Features&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn each expansion on or off (supports all expansions through Prosperity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn each promo card (Envoy, Black Market, Stash) on or off&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generates the Black Market deck as well if you're using it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sort the resulting list by name, cost, or set (or a combination) to facilitate easy retrieval of the cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Randomization Options&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure Attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure Reaction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Curses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No 6 Plus Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure +Buy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure +Action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blacklist for cards you're just sick of&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swipe to replace any card in the set with a new one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Correctly selects 3-5 Alchemy cards or none at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cons&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not free (although iDominion Lite is free, and a fully functioning randomizer.  It doesn't offer the blacklist and randomization options)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Correct&quot; Alchemy selection means you may have to refresh several times before it actually chooses any Alchemy cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T18:24:13.190" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T18:24:13.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:01:01.767" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Oxford History of Board Games&lt;/em&gt; is a very thorough book that discusses board games from their ancient inception to the (almost) present-day dividing into Race Games, Space Games, Chase Games, Displace Games, and War Games (such as chess). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T16:33:30.090" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T16:33:30.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:04:46.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;After thinking about my recommendation for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25613/through-the-ages-a-story-of-civilization&quot;&gt;Through the Ages&lt;/a&gt;, it occurs to me that you and your wife might be well served by a wide variety of eurogames. Many euros have very low player interaction, and while not exactly cooperative, they certainly avoid the &quot;beat up the other guy&quot; problem. In fact, many of the best-regarded euros have been accused of being &quot;multiplayer solitaire&quot;, an accusation which might turn out to be a ringing endorsement in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interaction between players in many games comes down to denial-of-choice or denial-of-resources. For example, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;, if you choose the Craftsman role all players will produce goods, but you'll get an extra for choosing the role. And in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt;, if you go fishing no other player can get food from fishing that turn. In both cases, you've denied the other player the opportunity of making that choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are three of the best games in the world (don't just take my word for it, ask &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/browse/boardgame?sort=rank&amp;amp;rankobjecttype=subtype&amp;amp;rankobjectid=1&amp;amp;rank=1#1&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;), and big favorites at my family's table, which often includes just my wife and me. I answered originally with some strictly cooperative games, but thought you might enjoy the low player interactivity of these exemplary eurogames, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T16:04:46.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:10:53.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have a group of unknown size to bring a game for, I always bring &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37904/formula-d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Formula D&lt;/a&gt;. It plays up to 10, and while I haven't played that many, I have played 7 and it works just great. There's a little more downtime, but everyone remains interested throughout everyone else's turns because of the risk of collision, and just because you want to follow the race!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it seems impossible for a boardgame to create a tense and exciting race, but Formula D manages the trick! The rules are light enough to explain to even a new group in a short time and it has just the right mix of luck and significant choices to make sure that smart play makes the difference and sometimes a big gamble can pay off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T16:10:53.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="428" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:23:52.253" Score="16" ViewCount="9587" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=false&amp;amp;multiverseid=4454&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doomsday&lt;/a&gt; - The card text reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pay half your life, rounded up: Put your graveyard on top of your library, then remove all but five cards of your library from the game. Put the rest on top of your library in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; managed to do anything useful with this card. Ever!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could I do to use it successfully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T18:26:40.093" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T18:26:40.093" Title="What is a good strategy for using the Doomsday card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-25T12:13:57.367" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:41:06.603" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/320/scrabble&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game mechanics are very simple, but the game is far from simple.  Unlike a game like Magic the Gathering, Scrabble achieves it's depth of near infinite possibilities with a simple board and a 100  wooden tiles.  Each play on the board has an immediate effect on what future possible actions players can take.  Scrabble &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0877794200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;has it's own dictionary&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrabble_%28game_show%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;had a TV show&lt;/a&gt;, has an established tournament structure, and can be played online.  Scrabble has appeared also on numerous consoles and computer systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing scrabble well requires critical thinking, and good spelling.  First published in 1948, Scrabble continues to remain popular even today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T16:41:06.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:42:15.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;H3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.multimanpublishing.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advanced Squad Leader&lt;/a&gt; (ASL)&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate game of WW2 squad level fighting, where anything that could be done in WW2 can be modeled (rockets, paratroopers, any vehicle ever used, etc.).  It has a dedicated community with ongoing tournaments.  There are over two thousand scenarios for it, and many modules and addons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has clubs throughout the world, tournaments all year round, many publications that support it solely and many publications that print scenarios and other articles for it.  It has two different rating systems, OARS which is just for ASL, and AREA which is used for many wargames (though nowadays I think AREA is mostly used).  It has many websites, forums and blogs that discuss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T20:49:07.827" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:49:07.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:48:06.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;H3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/594/sleuth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sleuth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/H3&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A classic deduction game that will play up to seven players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T16:48:06.393" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T16:59:00.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16986/ubongo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ubongo&lt;/a&gt;, even as an adult. Form tangram-like shapes, and collect shiny objects. What more do you want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T16:59:00.880" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-10-20T17:25:58.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hex&lt;/strong&gt; and other connection games like Twixt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cameron Browne has written a book of analysis and online play is pretty active. I haven't heard of any tournaments in person, though. As much as I love Hex, my personal favourite connection game is Akron, invented by Cameron Browne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T17:25:58.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-20T17:43:00.980" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a slow player myself, and I often used to play games with a person who is a very quick decision maker. It would driver her completely bonkers, which wound me up, etc. Eventually we settled on a solution where she would read a book while I was thinking. Of course it's not ideal; I wouldn't recommend it to everyone and it won't work for groups of more than two people. But for us it rescued gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T17:43:00.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:29:02.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We used to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/a&gt; with my son and his friends when he was younger. The cooperative nature of the game meant that giving advice was OK and that the kids weren't pitted against adults.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We established a few house rules for kid games that allowed easier victories - the one I remember off the top of my head was that the first quest completed just disappeared instead of remaining on the table, flipped over, causing catapults or Saxons to appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet several of the current generation of cooperative games could be played this way with bright kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T18:29:02.467" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:33:47.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=3-High&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3-High&lt;/a&gt;, a recent game using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/treehouse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Treehouse&lt;/a&gt; pyramids, is fully cooperative: 2-4 players are trying to reach a goal together before running out of cards in the deck.  It was one of the more pleasant gaming experiences I've shared with my wife, though replay value is a bit low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T18:33:47.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2238" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:37:09.987" Score="9" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Myself and some friends meet up for some games every so often, and enjoy a good game of Descent to Darkness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recently tried a campaign over an extra long weekend (the idea of carrying equipment and characters over to a new game sounded appealing) but found that we'd barely scratched the surface, and that a lot of time was spent setting up and messing around in markets etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any recommendations (or even better, tested method) for a middle ground between an evening's single dungeon and full-on month-lasting campaign?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T02:50:47.207" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T20:28:16.783" Title="Descent Campaign Shortening" Tags="|house-rules|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="311" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:50:17.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative to Don's pretty comprehensive solution: Have you considered playing some games with the hands 'open' (the cards showing, usually inevitably spread on the table)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this removes a large chunk of the strategy in most games (which may well be beyond them initially), it will give them a chance to look at their opponent's hands and anticipate their next move. Thus allowing them an easier introduction to closed-hand game strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T18:50:17.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T18:52:55.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/Default.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; in groups from 2 through 10; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/Zombie/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zombie Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; seems to work even better at the ends of that range.  With too many people, though, you need to have a good conversation going while people wait for the turn to come back around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T18:52:55.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:02:21.533" Score="27" ViewCount="19578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Googling reveals several sites listing standard tactics for Dominion. Let's collect ideas here, and discuss and judge them using the voting system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tactic per post please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="69" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T21:17:59.287" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T21:17:59.287" Title="What are good standard tactics for Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-01-28T21:18:09.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:08:16.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/115/im-the-boss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I'm the Boss&lt;/a&gt; is another Sid Sackson classic that plays best with 6. Every turn is about getting enough players together to make a deal. Everybody can participate or at least advise on every deal. When the &quot;I'm the Boss&quot; cards start flying it can get pretty hectic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:08:16.240" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-22T16:41:10.160" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:21:21.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get a lot of flexibility with a game system like &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizoGames/library&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stonehenge&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/treehouse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Icehouse&lt;/a&gt;. There are some games that are good for 2 all the way up to party games for 100. The downside is that you have to sift through a lot of weak games to find the good ones. There's an excellent article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamesjournal.com/articles/GameSystems1.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Game Systems&lt;/a&gt; in the Game Journal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:21:21.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="297" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:26:55.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3269/clue-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clue: The Card Game&lt;/a&gt; uses the same characters as the U.S. version of Clue: Colonel Mustard, Miss Scarlet, Professor Plum, Mr. Green, Mrs. White, and Mrs. Peacock.  In some ways, it's even more fun than the board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17700/cluedo-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cluedo card game&lt;/a&gt;, too, but I can't personally vouch for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:26:55.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:29:54.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great book called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0806959150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Super Party Games&lt;/a&gt; that describes a bunch of games that can be played by groups of 10 or more. I generated a set of puzzles for one of the games described in the book. Each player is given a sheet of paper that they tie to their forehead where they can't see it. On each sheet of paper are three letters, and you have to arrange yourselves to spell out a secret quote without telling anybody what letters are on their heads. You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/donkirkby/wiki/FortunePuzzles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;download the puzzles&lt;/a&gt; and print out one of the puzzles for your group size. There are currently puzzles from 4 to 95 people, although I've never tried it with a group larger than 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:29:54.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:35:50.023" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably just a psychological memory bias, but I keep finding that when I reach a 2-to-1 port, even when I'm on good numbers for its associated resource, I start collecting a surplus of something &lt;em&gt;else&lt;/em&gt;.  Usually something relatively worthless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:35:50.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="311" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:37:34.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a kid, I would put my cards on a chair beside me. That way my parents couldn't see them, but I didn't have to hold them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:37:34.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:38:00.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40692/small-world&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Small World&quot;&gt;Small World&lt;/a&gt; is for 2-5 players and is very entertaining for each size. There are four different boards that come with the game (2 physical boards printed front and back) with the larger player groups having more spaces and fewer turns on the turn counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:38:00.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:45:33.743" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a solution for everybody, but Andy Looney (of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/&quot;&gt;Looney Labs&lt;/a&gt; fame, inventor of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/&quot;&gt;Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icehouse_pieces&quot;&gt;Icehouse pyramids&lt;/a&gt;) solves his frustration with waiting for other people's turn by playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Andy/Games/AndyVsEverybody.html&quot;&gt;Andy Vs. Everybody&lt;/a&gt;. He plays multiple games against dozens of opponents at once. Everyone else sits in a ring of tables around him, and raises a flag when it's his turn. He in turn runs madly around to raised flags, takes his turn, puts the flag down, and then moves on to another table. The rest of the players can have all of the analysis paralysis they want; he's got plenty of other games to play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T20:19:13.587" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:19:13.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2010-10-20T19:57:29.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key interaction that we've found has been the timing of production and consumption roles. If your opponent is always playing the consumption roles, they're getting a bunch of extra cards and points that you aren't. Sometimes you have to play these roles a bit earlier than you would like, just to avoid getting scooped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T19:57:29.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="311" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:02:14.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the answer! You will need to purchase some Pringles, or something else that comes in plastic-lidded cylindrical cans like that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take two lids and punch a hole in the center of them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the lids top-to-top and use a brass brad through the hole to hold them together&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can put the kids' cards in them - face down and you're not even peeking!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh. I see that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/311/how-to-help-kids-to-hold-theirs-cards-in-their-hands/314#314&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; has a picture of what I'm describing a DIY version of....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:02:14.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:07:48.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Charles_Bell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;R.C Bell&lt;/a&gt; wrote several books on board games, though I don't think they were as structured as the Oxford book that Jeremiah already mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:07:48.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:08:44.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.librarything.com/work/171618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A History of Board Games Other Than Chess&lt;/a&gt; is one of the definitive books in this category. The Library Thing page I linked to also has several related books to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:08:44.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:14:13.287" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Resign. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it's almost impossible to work yourself out of last place in this game. There's often a struggle between the top two players, but if you're a few turns in and somebody has badly blocked your expansion, I think you're doomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:14:13.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:20:08.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/823/lord-of-the-rings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lord of the Rings&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative game, but a friend of mine highly recommends playing it solitaire. I would guess that other cooperative games could be played this way, but it would depend on how much information was intended to be hidden from the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:20:08.980" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="405" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:45:12.417" Score="30" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a9R6z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within my group its taken for granted that some seats in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Rico_(board_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt; are better (if only slightly) than others.  There's a general consensus that 3rd and 4th seat are strictly better than 1st, where 2nd and 5th lie is a matter of debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember stumbling across some hard numbers (data collected from tournament play if I recall correctly) backing some of this up, but can't seem find them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, does anyone have those numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also appreciate some opinions as to why this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal pet theory is that 3rd and 4th seat are in the sweet spot for &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; diversified production and an early game Factory.  Although that's not a guarnateed victory, it should keep you competitive in most games (all else being equal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:03:52.547" Title="Seating orders effect on Puerto Rico" Tags="|puerto-rico|turn-order|balance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:51:14.937" Score="33" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Remove Your Bad Cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This involves slimming your deck down as small as possible by trashing or otherwise removing your starting Estates and Coppers (as well as any Curses you have ended up with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common cards that can enable this strategy (with set in parantheses):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple Card Trash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chapel (B) - 4 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forge (P) - Any number of cards from your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steward (I) - 2 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single Card Trash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apprentice (A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishop (P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expand (P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loan (P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lookout (S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Masquerade (I)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moneylender (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mine (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remodel (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salvager (S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trade Route (P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading Post (I)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmute (A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade (I)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove Cards From Play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island (S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Native Village (S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing your starting Copper and Estates will let you draw your more powerful cards that you've bought more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T21:19:37.460" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T21:19:37.460" CommentCount="10" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T21:00:41.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:54:27.880" Score="26" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Draw  A Lot Of Cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This involves chaining actions together to draw as much of your deck as possible every turn, letting you use your good cards more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common cards that can enable this strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alchemist (A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caravan (S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City (P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laboratory (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Library (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Market (I)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smithy (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Village (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wharf (S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any card with +Cards and +Actions on it can be chained with other such cards to keep searching your deck until you find your high-value Treasure.  Cards like Laboratory (+2 Cards, +1 Action) are even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards that combo into this strategy are things like Scout that will clear out upcoming Victory cards so that everything you draw is playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T18:28:27.750" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T18:28:27.750" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T21:01:16.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-20T20:58:10.223" Score="26" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Big Money&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This involves just buying Silver and Gold, skipping any Action cards in favor of building up your Treasure as quickly as possible.  Once you've built up a deck full of Gold, you buy Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy can be quite successful, especially against beginners, but a good strategy using combos of Action cards can beat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T20:58:10.223" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T21:01:32.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="401" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:03:16.890" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seating is very important in Puerto Rico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The seat that wins the most is 1st Corn (based on World Boardgaming Championship stats).&#xA;Here's one of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbook09/propge.htm&quot;&gt;the tourney pages with stats&lt;/a&gt;, if you look around you'll find more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the compilation of stats from 2002 to 2009:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Seat 1 indigo 41.53 scoring average, 19.9% of wins&#xA;Seat 2 indigo 40.73 scoring average, 19.5% of wins&#xA;Seat 3 corn   43.48 scoring average, 30.8% of wins&#xA;Seat 4 corn   43.35 scoring average, 29.7% of wins&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having corn allows you to produce sooner, and more, so you can make more points shipping.&#xA;It requires less men, so you can do more with the men you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the big reasons that it gives an advantage is that it's a simple strategy, just make corn and ship.  The other strategies take more thought and hard decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other factor that comes into play in Puerto Rico is that you have to change your tactics and maybe your strategies based on the player to the left and what he does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-11-02T22:26:30.100" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T22:26:30.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="222" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:25:14.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Risk Tournament of Champions celebrated their 20th championship in 2008, the 2009 championship was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conquerclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&amp;amp;t=105236&quot;&gt;cancelled&lt;/a&gt;.  The web page @ risktoc.org is defunct. You can view the old web pages via &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20080613195150/http://www.risktoc.org/&quot;&gt;The Internet Archive Wayback machine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replacement is the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.annualriskclassic.com/index.php&quot;&gt;Annual Risk Classic&lt;/a&gt;.  The 1st championship will be decided November 6-7, 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T21:25:14.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:36:25.320" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;General rule that applies to any specific strategy of play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plan your first four turns in advance.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your opening hand ready, you should plan your first two purchases.  Then you have a decent chance of planning turns three and four based on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use these key early turns to mark a clear path to your first Gold and/or powerful 5-cost card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T21:36:25.320" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-20T21:37:46.347" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="169" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:51:48.060" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place I find to watch amateur games and learn to play go is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/&quot;&gt;KGS&lt;/a&gt;. It's a fairly friendly Go server with an emphasis on teaching. You can watch and kibbitz on games in progress, or you can look through many game records. It's also good for finding stronger players to play in teaching games, in which they review how you played afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pandanet.co.jp/English/&quot;&gt;IGS/PandaNet&lt;/a&gt; tends to broadcast more professional games, so if you want to watch and learn from pro games, rather than higher level amateurs, that might be a good place to look. There are other Go servers as well; there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoServers&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt; on Sensei's Library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in reviewing older games, not watching live games, there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoDatabases&quot;&gt;many professional games&lt;/a&gt; available for purchase or sometimes even free download, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gogod.co.uk/&quot;&gt;&quot;Games of Go on Disk&quot;&lt;/a&gt; collection. Or if you prefer paper, you can find collections of games by master players, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?InvincibleTheGamesOfShusaku&quot;&gt;Honinbo Shusaku&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?WuQingyuansCollectedGames&quot;&gt;Go Seigen&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T21:51:48.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="297" CreationDate="2010-10-20T21:57:23.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theartofmurder.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theartofmurder.com/&lt;/a&gt; is probably the most comprehensive list I know of. It goes through all the editions, variants, spinoffs etc of Clue/Cluedo. Which are mostly the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Great Museum Caper&lt;/em&gt; is a 1991 variant in the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T21:57:23.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:11:32.677" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;For half your life, you get to stack your deck and set yourself up for a number of combos.  There's a combo going around that involves &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info/query?q=!Shelldock+Isle&quot;&gt;Shelldock Isle&lt;/a&gt;/ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info/wl/en/8.html&quot;&gt;Doomsday&lt;/a&gt;/ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info/query?q=emrakul%2C+the+aeons+torn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; to pop out the Emrakul for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info/us/en/45.html&quot;&gt;Serra Avatar&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info/5dn/en/61.html&quot;&gt;Beacon of Destruction&lt;/a&gt;, and other cards that shuffle back into your library afterwards can be used to stall running out of cards.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info/mi/en/228.html&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; can help keep you from losing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's a pretty hard card to build around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T22:11:32.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="457" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:19:28.413" Score="22" ViewCount="125990" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between an &quot;ante&quot; and a &quot;blind&quot; in poker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2019-10-27T16:16:50.943" Title="What's the difference between ante and blinds?" Tags="|poker|terminology|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="322" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:22:12.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies Combat Simulator/Calculator&lt;/a&gt;. You can choose which variant of the game you're playing (Original, Revised Edition, etc.), how many simulations to run, and a number of other options. (There's even a iPhone and Android versions!) The combat simulator then tells you the average IPC loss for both sides and the average winning percentage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presuming you play with the Revised Edition (a/k/a, the 2nd Edition), here are the odds. (Note that each simulation has a link to the combat simulator with the attacking and defending units already entered. The link sets the simulation runs parameter to 1,000, but the results I present here were computed using 5,000 runs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html?&amp;amp;rules=0&amp;amp;battleType=2&amp;amp;attSubmarine=1&amp;amp;defAircraftCarrier=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1 sub&lt;/a&gt;: 49.8% chance of winning, average IPC loss: 4 for attacker, 8 for defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html?&amp;amp;rules=0&amp;amp;battleType=2&amp;amp;attSubmarine=2&amp;amp;defAircraftCarrier=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2 subs&lt;/a&gt;: 85.4% chance of winning, average IPC loss: 4 for attacker, 14 for defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html?&amp;amp;rules=0&amp;amp;battleType=2&amp;amp;attSubmarine=3&amp;amp;defAircraftCarrier=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 subs&lt;/a&gt;: 97.9% chance of winning, average IPC loss: 2 for attacker, 16 for defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about super subs (which attack at a 3 instead of a 2)? If so, here are how the odds unfold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html?&amp;amp;rules=0&amp;amp;superSubmarines=true&amp;amp;battleType=2&amp;amp;attSubmarine=1&amp;amp;defAircraftCarrier=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1 supersub&lt;/a&gt;: 67.1% chance of winning, average IPC loss: 3 for attacker, 11 for defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html?&amp;amp;rules=0&amp;amp;superSubmarines=true&amp;amp;battleType=2&amp;amp;attSubmarine=2&amp;amp;defAircraftCarrier=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2 supersubs&lt;/a&gt;: 95.0% chance of winning, average IPC loss: 2 for attacker, 15 for defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html?&amp;amp;rules=0&amp;amp;superSubmarines=true&amp;amp;battleType=2&amp;amp;attSubmarine=3&amp;amp;defAircraftCarrier=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 supersubs&lt;/a&gt;: 99.6% chance of winning, average IPC loss: 1 for attacker, 16 for defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, because a sub has the benefit of &quot;first attack,&quot; there will never be a scenario where &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; the sub and carrier are destroyed. In this type of battle you know that one side (and only one side) will be standing at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T22:22:12.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="459" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:34:15.477" Score="14" ViewCount="1463" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Citadels it's possible to build both the Library and Observatory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Library&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you choose to draw cards when you take an action, you keep both of the cards you have drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Observatory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you choose to draw cards when you take an action, you draw three cards, keep one of your choice, and put the other two on the bottom of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when I draw district cards when I have both districts in my city?  Do I draw three cards and keep all of them, or do I draw three cards and keep two of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T12:27:36.000" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T12:27:36.000" Title="What happens when I draw cards if I've built the Library and the Observatory?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:47:33.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to say you should try and meet as much of the criteria as possible.  That said, you would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw three cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep both (both meaning &lt;code&gt;two&lt;/code&gt;) of the cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the remaining cards (one) on the bottom of the deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T22:47:33.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="542" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:48:02.647" Score="30" ViewCount="12905" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never buy development cards in the beginning: the Knights are fairly useless, the Largest Army bonus is not a priority, and it's too risky to gamble on drawing a Road Building card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is the best time to start buying development cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T23:13:30.353" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T20:25:52.880" Title="Catan: when to buy development cards?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:52:06.327" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally buy developments when I have the ore-grain-sheep combination, absolutely nothing else to buy, and I have six or seven cards in my hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have to pick between losing half my cards or getting a development card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had some games where the robber is on one of my hexes, I've had abysmally bad rolls and can't roll a 7, and I'll buy a development card for a chance at a Soldier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Development cards can be nice in a larger game when you've been ringed in, and you need the VP cards just for a fighting chance to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-20T23:04:23.790" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T23:04:23.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:52:48.890" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I start buying development cards when I have the resources and I am looking to break out of a stalled position.  In the early part of the game, being lucky enough to draw the Year of Plenty card can really help you break out.  I also buy development cards when I'm concerned I have two many cards in my hand, and I'm likely to have to discard cards if the robber comes up.  If things are going well, and I'm able to keep expanding, I don't buy development cards till the game is coming to the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expanded what I said to Brian Campbell in comments on his answer, if your trying to focus solely on development cards, your still going to need three settlements upgraded to cities.  With only two cities, you would need to draw 4 victory points out of a possible 5, and have largest army.  While it's possible, it's not probable.  The odds are two much against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Biran's strategy of early development card buying is useful, but also emphasizes flexibility.  Using developments cards that grant resources to buy more settlements is exactly what I was talking about drawing a year of plenty card early on, and a point I agree on.  I personally favor focusing on getting land first, and then building cities and buying development cards.  the amount of land of the map is limited, and the more of it you control, the more resources you can generate.  On a flip side, the more of the land your control, the less of it your opponents can control.  Settlements with low production potentials are of course less desirable, but are still worth points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do with what the resources your getting allow you to do.  I generally focus more on development cards after the early part of the game, but if have the resources in your hand right then buy a development card.  The best strategies in Catan are flexible, and usually involve combining multiple tactics.  Since resources are generated by the random roll of the dice, don't be afraid to adjust your strategy based on resource availability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T17:54:27.350" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T17:54:27.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2010-10-20T22:56:26.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll buy a development card early if I'm ok on grain and sheep (position-wise), and I'm still a road away from the next settlement spot.  The real bummer is if you draw a VP card early, any other card will do something for you, but that just slows you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's good to have a soldier card to hold in case the robber gets set on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T22:56:26.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="470" CreationDate="2010-10-20T23:12:51.910" Score="5" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sunrise rule states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the talisman moves to the Sunrise, all vampires that are outside must immediately move to the closest indoor space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;Summon Eclipse&amp;quot; card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the Phase Talisman to the first New Moon space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Talisman has to move &lt;em&gt;past&lt;/em&gt; the Sunrise space to get to the first New Moon space, does this trigger Sunrise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say, &amp;quot;No&amp;quot;, since you're moving the Talisman &lt;em&gt;to&lt;/em&gt; the first New Moon space (effectively skipping over the Sunrise space), but others in our group insist it does in fact trigger &amp;quot;Sunrise&amp;quot;, since they argue you move the Talisman forward (and through Sunrise) to the first New Moon space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2022-12-23T20:58:40.883" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T20:58:40.883" Title="Sunrise versus &quot;Summon Eclipse&quot; in Buffy the Vampire Slayer" Tags="|buffy-the-vampire-slayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-20T23:22:24.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are four games that I would recommend for families:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 6 and under group:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1806/russelbande&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Piggyback Brigade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Russelbande)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circus pigs that race through the fields on their days off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to play, different every time and everyone can win (I mean, more than one person can win)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/23656/chuck-it-chicken&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chuck-it Chicken&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Kiki Ricky)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A rooster is taking over the hen house, and it's up to you to stop him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basically a dice rolling game, get to the top first to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the older than 6 group, we play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/43868/the-adventurers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Adventurers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indiana Jones-style temple exploration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty fun, complete with rolling boulder. Often the winner is the only one who makes it out alive.  Often, there is no winner.... :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18/roborally&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robo Rally&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Robot race in an ever changing factory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A fun game, but this can run long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  My son's 4th Birthday was last weekend and we got:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14076/the-ladybug-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Ladybug Game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lost Ladybugs have to travel home, meeting mantis and ants on the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great game for kids.  Fun, no reading needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple to learn, easy to go from first to last then first place again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designed by a young girl.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-04-24T05:57:42.047" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T05:57:42.047" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="431" CreationDate="2010-10-20T23:26:06.593" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ante and blinds are both forced bets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betting_%28poker%29#Ante&quot;&gt;Ante&lt;/a&gt; is a bet that &lt;em&gt;everyone&lt;/em&gt; in the game must make in order to stay at the table. It forces there to always be at least some payout in the pot, increasing the relative value of playing a hand to folding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betting_%28poker%29#Blinds&quot;&gt;Blinds&lt;/a&gt; are bets that only one or two players are forced to make, usually a small blind and a big blind, the small blind at half the big blind. They are bet by the two players after the dealer, and thus rotate around as the dealer rotates. The blinds start betting off; bidding starts with the player after the big blind, and players must call or raise the blind bet to stay in the game, otherwise they fold. It puts less in the pot than ante does, thus it does less to incentivize staying in the game, but it still puts enough in that it's worth it for some people to stay in as they do stand to win something, and the players who played the blinds stand to lose them if they simply fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T16:20:31.957" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T16:20:31.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="431" CreationDate="2010-10-20T23:32:39.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ante is given by all players before cards are dealt. It's effect is to make sure that everyone has some skin in the game, and that people don't instantly fold when dealt less than stellar cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blinds are a different way of dividing up the ante so that only a few player are committed to the game before seeing their cards. They are generally split into big and small blinds. The big blind is the full 'ante' for the round. The small blind is a smaller sum. The blinds are bet before cards are dealt, but after seeing the initial cards, players can either fold, pay so that they have equaled the big blind, or place a higher bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="79" LastActivityDate="2010-10-20T23:32:39.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="442" CreationDate="2010-10-21T00:28:05.390" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: What if a player has both Library&#xA;and Observatory in his city? How do&#xA;their effects combine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: If this&#xA;player draws cards, he draws three and&#xA;keeps two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faidutti.com/index.php?Module=mesjeux&amp;amp;id=328&amp;amp;fichier=105&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's straight from the horse's mouth, so to speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T00:28:05.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-21T00:52:41.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personal favourite is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zooloretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zooloretto&lt;/a&gt;. As you would expect from Rio Grande Games, it has a great board, good pieces and good gameplay. It is also very easy to learn, and because it is based on a Zoo, it keeps the interest of the kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have known kids of 7 and 8 playing this game, and in a few years time being introduced to the more adult games such as Agricola and Puerto Rico etc. It is easy enough for them to understand, but has enough variety to make it strategic enough for adults to play and enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27588/zooloretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt;, its users recommend it for ages 6 and up, although the manufacturer says 8 and up. Most of the other games in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/familygames/browse/boardgame?sort=rank&amp;amp;rankobjecttype=family&amp;amp;rankobjectid=5499&amp;amp;rank=#40&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Family Rank&lt;/a&gt; are generally for kids of 8 and upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, by daughter is only two, so I am still playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2767/snails-pace-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snail's Pace Race&lt;/a&gt; with her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T19:52:06.627" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T19:52:06.627" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:26:44.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had lots of fun with a few free print-and-play dice games.  The rules and game boards can be printed out for free, though you'll need to provide your own dice (obviously).  Here are a few good ones that I keep coming back to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/61028/d-day-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D-Day Dice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pph1J.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This dice game depicts the attack on Normandy Beach on June 6, 1944.  You start with a few soldiers and a printout of the beach divided into sectors.  Roll dice to recruit more soldiers, recruit specialists, gain courage (allowing you to advance), and so on.  It's a lot of fun, and actually quite difficult to beat.  I won the first game I played, and I haven't won since!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54201/the-d6-shooters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The d6 Shooters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uiBx9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this game, you play the role of the leader of a posse escorting an outlaw to his trial in Reno.  By rolling dice, you gather food, mine for gold, move toward Reno, and fight any outlaws you encounter on the way.  There's a lot to like about this game, and it plays in about 20 minutes.  It's a game that falls into that &quot;Just one more time!&quot; category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice thing about both of these games is that there are several different scenarios available, and new ones come out periodically.  Just follow the links above to their respective pages on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek.com&lt;/a&gt;, and check out the &quot;Files&quot; sections for the rules and downloadable material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. - If you enjoy these games, it might be worth your while to laminate the player sheets.  That way, you can use dry-erase markers and simply erase when you're done.  No need to keep printing the game boards over and over again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T01:26:44.053" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:35:59.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsuro&quot;&gt;Tsuro&lt;/a&gt; is simple and easy to follow.  It also plays fairly quickly and requires very minimal setup.  The game can play anywhere from 2-8 people, useful if you need a game to play with a group of kids.  While the suggested age is 8 and up, the users on BoardGameGeek have suggested it for 6 and up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T01:35:59.370" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-21T01:37:30.007" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Give &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/438/scotland-yard&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scotland Yard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B52xJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scotland Yard a great game where one person is Mr. X, a fugitive from the law, and the other players team up as detectives.  Mr. X takes various modes of public transportation to move stealthily around the city of London, and it's up to the detectives to figure out where he is and capture him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great game of deduction and logical thinking, plus it's tons of fun.  It's fun for Mr. X, since there's something exciting about trying to escape from London's finest, and it's fun for the detectives since they get to work as a team to capture the slippery scofflaw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game won the prestigious &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiel_des_Jahres&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spiel des Jahres&lt;/a&gt; (Game of the Year) award in 1983, and I think it is a game that has aged quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T01:37:30.007" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="465" CreationDate="2010-10-21T02:09:31.367" Score="20" ViewCount="3148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have the &lt;strong&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/strong&gt; base set plus &lt;strong&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/strong&gt; which expands the game to 6 players. I've found that I can buy extra sets of Meeples in different colors which would effectively add additional players. Are there any potential downsides to doing this? Should I also get additional expansions to maintain some sort of &quot;tiles per player&quot; ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:12:58.970" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:12:58.970" Title="7+ Players in Carcassonne - Problematic?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2010-10-21T02:16:22.760" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider getting another expansion or two -- with the base set plus Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, you'll have 90 tiles (72 core + 18 expansion) to play with.  Assuming seven players, you'll have 12-13 tiles per person to play with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Builders will give you an extra 24 tiles to play with, including some really funky shapes for finishing those hard-to-finish cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep the game shorter, you can just use the two sets listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T02:16:22.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="197" CreationDate="2010-10-21T03:00:17.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'de say no.  Even thought the rules don't spell it out explicitly I think it's clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, detention and the bring are treated to be the same thing, especially for player powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 2, bottom of the first column) nothing can move a player out of the brig except a successful skill check for the brig location action.  So by extension this applies to the detention center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, thematically it didn't happen (spoiler follows).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; When Tigh was in the detention center and Cavil ripped his eye out, he left him there.  Even when he kicked the snot out of him as well he left them there.  He totally should have gone to the medical tent but didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T17:32:23.037" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T17:32:23.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2010-10-21T03:04:22.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;During your turn, the House can be moved to any other set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have one, or it isn't your turn then just leave the House on the table in play for you until you are able to attach it to a set again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T03:04:22.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="266" CreationDate="2010-10-21T03:36:58.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Didn't figure to have to dig my copy of &lt;strong&gt;Shark&lt;/strong&gt; out of the garage for this site!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the end of game rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is over as soon as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a company's share price indicator reaches 15,000 on the value scale, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all of the building in a particular colour have been used, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all of the shares have been sold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bonus that is due in the last round and any share profits or losses need to be resolved.  The players multiply their shares by the current share price and ad their cash to the amount.  The player with the most money has won the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT - Addition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game Shark has gone thru a couple revisions.   The original Flying Turtles version has a couple rules differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The big on is the &amp;quot;Rule of 7&amp;quot; - adding to a group of 7 or more does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; increase the share price.  This will make it much harder to get to 15,000 (you need a minimum of 3 building groups to get there).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Furthermore, the rules clearly state that 15,000 is the &lt;strong&gt;maximum&lt;/strong&gt; share price, so even if you still manage to arrange to shoot to 16,000 or higher, you will be limited to 15,000.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, (and the folks over on the 'geek) would recommend that you add these rules to your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T21:18:56.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="455" CreationDate="2010-10-21T03:47:44.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going off of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.orderofgamers.com/downloads/Buffy_v1.2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;version of the rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Sunrise space is moved past in&#xA;one turn, these effects still take&#xA;place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the token always advances, and passing through the Sunrise space is sufficient to trigger the vampire actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="39076" LastEditDate="2022-12-23T20:52:00.867" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T20:52:00.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:05:37.957" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;The third edition scoring is now what is shipped by both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=48&quot;&gt;Rio Grande Games&lt;/a&gt;(US distributor) and Hans im Glück(Original, German publishers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rio Grande Games made the changes for the english version of the game (1st and 2nd edition scoring).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a summary of the scoring rule changes by edition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1st Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small City scoring (Completed 2 tile cities only score 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Farmer scoring:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a city&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the farmers in fields touching that city&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player with the majority of farmers on all farms touching that city scores 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat for each city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2nd Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small City scoring (Completed 2 tile cities only score 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Farmer scoring:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a farm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the farmers on that farm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player with the most farmers scores 3 for each city touching that farm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat for each city.  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;However, each city can only be scored once&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3rd Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All city scoring is 2 points per tile, no small city exception&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Farmer Scoring:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a farm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Count the farmers on that farm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player with the most farmers scores 3 for each city touching that farm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat for each farm.  Each city can be scored multiple times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rio Grande Games only recently (2009) starting shipping the 3rd edition rules, while Hans im  Glück issued them in 2004.  The reason given is that RGG prefers not to issue rule changes when reprinting a game. This meant that they had to rewrite the rules of most expansions issued to ensure they were compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that Jay Tummelson (Head of Rio Grande Games) has stated why the switch was made in 2009.  I think there are two possible explanations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Abbey and Mayor expansion introduced the barn piece.  The barn piece is scored essentially like a farm (it scores and eliminates all farmers in the farm).  This is easily understood for those familiar with the 3rd edition rules, but confusing for those using 1st.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All electronic editions of the game use 3rd edition scoring.  This could have forced RGG's hand.  When everyone in the US was playing just the RGG version it was easy to maintain a consistent rule set.  Now, a lot of us play on our Xbox or Ipad as well as using the board game.  This makes the differences more noticeable.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T00:32:49.893" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T00:32:49.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="249" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:26:23.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/game.php?id=85&amp;amp;stock=MFG4102&amp;amp;name=Domaine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full rules&lt;/a&gt; on Mayfair Games site: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: If you sell an action card, you may not chose to draw that card when you refill your hand to 3 cards at the end of your turn.  You may chose any other card in the Chancery, or draw from the action deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T22:36:52.233" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T22:36:52.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="538" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:34:20.397" Score="54" ViewCount="47108" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst I haven't played Magic in a while, use of the stack was something that I always found a little confusing. When I first started out, our group could tap an opponents attacking creature after attackers had been declared and effectively take it out of combat? Is this right? Or did we have the stack order backwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T14:52:01.437" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T20:26:39.837" Title="In Magic, when can I tap my opponent's creatures to prevent them from attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="995" CreationDate="2010-10-21T04:46:52.033" Score="10" ViewCount="3996" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Axis &amp;amp; Allies as Japan I occasionally have an opponent use the &quot;Kwabang&quot; opening against me, which is where UK attacks Kwangtung on her opening move with the two infantry and fighter in India (landing the fighter in China, typically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual opening move with Japan involves attacking the Pearl Harbor fleet, but when UK opens with a successful Kwabang attack (meaning they capture the territory with at least one infantry) I call that attack off and instead do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send one infantry from Burma into India.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send my two transports with four infantry into Kwangtung, along with the two battleships (and pray that the transport doesn't strike a blow).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throw all of my available infantry (3 in Manchuria, 1 in Burma) plus all air power into attacking China, especially if the UK fighter is based there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move all remaining naval units to the Japan Sea Zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this strategy usually works well enough to retake Kwangtung and to capture China (and, more importantly, to remove the US and UK fighters in Asia), it has the following undesirable consequences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It leaves the Pearl Harbor fleet unmolested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It leaves Manchuria and Burma unguarded. Granted, these are two territories that are usually easy to take back because they are reachable from Japanese transports in one turn, but if Russia has stacked infantry in east Asia on turn 1 then it can take up to two turns to get Manchuria back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious how others deal with this opening and if there are any recommendations on how to refine my response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T20:48:19.970" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:29:54.323" Title="Advice for responding to &quot;Kwabang&quot; attack when playing Japan?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2010-10-21T05:42:02.927" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are an offensive player, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamebeast.com/risk-board-game-strategies-south-america.html&quot;&gt;Craig Reade wrote a good strategy page discussing starting in South America&lt;/a&gt;, which is a continent I like to start in, if I can.  The basic elements of the strategy are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't play defensively.  You'll get boxed in and die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't want to gain the continent, but lose the game because it cost you too much to take it.  That said, if you are not holding onto the entire continent early, you'll find yourself in an indefensible position, surrounded by foes and your turns will be numbered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab some North American territories during initial placement - especially Central America.  North America is likely to be the next area you'll be heading into, so any territories you can grab now, go for it.  Plus Central America makes a great early buffer against attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't play defensively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally, plan on having gained a second continent before your Australian opponent starts their offensive push.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't allow yourself to get trapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can hold both of the Americas, you're in excellent position: 2 continents with 13 territories and only 3 access points.  Sweet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I mentioned this, but you don't want to play defensively ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T05:42:02.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="565" CreationDate="2010-10-21T05:52:31.287" Score="3" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Domaine rules, you must have more knights in your domain than your opponent's domain to expand into his.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both domains have no knights, does it mean that neither domain can expand into each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T03:33:26.040" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T03:33:26.040" Title="Domaine - Can you expand into an opponent's domain if your domain and his have no knights?" Tags="|domaine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-10-21T05:54:04.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent question.  This answer is bucking the trend somewhat from the other answers here, but what about a game like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usgo.org/usa/pairgo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pair Go&lt;/a&gt;? Obviously, you'd have to be interested in a traditional strategy game like Go, first.  Also, since Go is a metaphor for war, I don't know if Go counts as a 'beat up the other guy' game for your wife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pair Go would involve you &amp;amp; your wife playing the same side of a Go game against another couple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dynamics get interesting, at least for me, because I never seem to know what my wife is thinking ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, that may be a metaphor for my entire marriage...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T05:54:04.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="483" CreationDate="2010-10-21T06:25:42.697" Score="11" ViewCount="1676" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Illuminati_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiEi2.jpg&quot; width=&quot;210&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hacker_(card_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DoTgx.jpg&quot; width=&quot;210&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these games (both from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steve Jackson Games&lt;/a&gt;) you build a network of cards you &quot;control&quot; over the course of the game.  The main difference between the two is that in Hacker's, the &quot;card network&quot; is shared and in Illuminati each player has one (though you can steal pieces of other players').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its kind of fun in and of itself to build up these insane networks (the flavor of the games helps alot too), so I'm wondering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other (good, hopefully) games out there with a similar mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarifying &quot;network building&quot; per &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/112/brian-campbell&quot;&gt;Brian Campbell&lt;/a&gt;'s request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players should assemble a connected set (or sets, as in Illuminati) of pieces over the course of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There should be a notion of ownership (but not necessarily exclusive ownership), and the structure (the way the pieces are connected, and who owns them) should have a direct impact on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pieces used to build the network should be pretty varied.  In Illuminati and Hackers each piece is unique, although absolute uniqueness isn't required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T08:57:53.153" Title="Other &quot;network building&quot; style games, like Hackers and Illuminati?" Tags="|recommendations|mechanics|illuminati|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:21:27.653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-21T06:26:01.340" Score="5" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an old box in our storeroom containing the game Chainstore.  My brother and I bought the game when we were kids (ages ago).  Now my children wants to play it, but the rules are missing.  I've tried to figure it out, but that's not the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody have a copy of the rules of Chainstore?  It looks like Monopoly-based game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:51:37.653" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T20:51:37.653" Title="Rules for the game &quot;Chainstore&quot;" Tags="|chain-store|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="480" CreationDate="2010-10-21T06:44:50.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/user/newboy1721&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dave Elder&lt;/a&gt; has a copy of Chainstore for trade listed at boardgamegeek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try contacting him via GeekMail there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T06:44:50.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2010-10-21T06:48:50.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; is a tile laying game where each player contributes to the same board while placing tokens to control different zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Farms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloisters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very easy to learn and there are a plethora of expansions that add a huge variety of different mechanics if you wish to make the game more challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T06:48:50.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2010-10-21T06:55:17.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easy way to expand it without complicating it further with expansions (if that is what you want) is to simply add another base set into the bag at the point of 6+ players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few promo expansions that just add a couple of tiles. Of course if you prefer expanding and adding more to the rules then expansions will suit just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T06:55:17.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="562" CreationDate="2010-10-21T07:47:03.863" Score="2" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been assembling a warbiker mob recently and I've wanted to make one unit a Nob. According to the Ork Codex I can then give him either a &lt;code&gt;Big Choppa&lt;/code&gt; (+10 points) or a &lt;code&gt;Klaw&lt;/code&gt; (+25 points). I know the &lt;code&gt;Klaw&lt;/code&gt; is more powerful but it also carries the disadvantage to Initiative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the &lt;code&gt;Klaw&lt;/code&gt; really worthy the extra points or is it better to stick with the &lt;code&gt;Big Choppa&lt;/code&gt; (which also looks much better on a model)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Big Choppa - gives +2 Strength&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Klaw - energy weapon (ignores armor) and doubles the Strength&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T02:36:26.440" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T04:49:23.960" Title="What's better for Ork Nob in Warbiker Mob: Big Choppa or Klaw?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|orks|space-orks|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="464" CreationDate="2010-10-21T08:35:02.440" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played with eight players using Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals and Traders &amp;amp; Builders.  Technically the game works fine, but the waiting between goes was horrendous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider is that as the number of players increases, the game changes from being focused on clever placement of tiles to being more focused on negotiation skills.  In my experience this also adds to the game length, as everyone wants to make a suggestion for every tile drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T08:35:02.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9413" CreationDate="2010-10-21T09:18:32.023" Score="5" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have often considered using the optional rule of a sabotage run on a War Sun, but have always decided it would be a waste of fighters. I was wondering if there exists a situation when you might want to do a sabotage run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoted from the rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game option: Sabotage Runs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although the mighty War Sun unit is the undisputed king of space, history has shown that such hubris of creation often hides a fatal flaw that can be exploited by the smallest of spacecraft.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When using this game option, Fighter units have adesperate chance of a pre-Space Battle strike at an enemy War Sun in the contested system. This desperate attack is called the “sabotage run.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Announce the Run&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A sabotage run takes place before an actual Space Battle begins, immediately after any Destroyer Anti-Fighter Barrage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Both players (attacker first) may announce that they are making a Sabotage run against an enemy War Sun in the battle (if no War Sun is present among the enemy units, a player cannot undertake a sabotage run).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If both players have War Suns, the attacker should resolve his sabotage run first, followed by the defender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After announcing a sabotage run, a player must commit a number of Fighter units to the dangerous task. After a number of Fighters have been committed, the sabotage run is executed over two rounds of die rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) The Outer Defenses&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Roll a die for every Fighter committed to the sabotage run. On an unmodified result of 9 or 10, the Fighter makes it through the outer defenses of the War Sun. All other results destroy the Fighter unit, which receives no return fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) The Inner Defenses&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  For every Fighter unit that made it past the outer defenses of the War Sun, roll another die (one at a time). If the fighter rolls an unmodified result of 10, the sabotage run is successful and the War Sun is immediately destroyed. Such a destroyed War Sun receives no return fire. All other die results instantly destroy the Fighter unit, which receives no return fire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Surviving Fighter units are able to participate in the subsequent Space Battle. An unharmed War Sun is able to participate in the Space Battle with no ill effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should an opponent have two War Sun units, a player is allowed to make a sabotage run against both units by dividing his committed Fighters into two separate pools. With each of these pools attacking one specific War Sun, simply resolve each separate sabotage run, one at a time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:16:11.300" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T20:11:52.680" Title="Is there a situation or way that a sabotage run is a good idea in TI:3?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="574" CreationDate="2010-10-21T09:48:49.377" Score="3" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever we play TI:3, we play free-for-all. Of course, during play you can make agreements with fellow players whom you are still free to backstab later. I was thinking about playing with fixed teams, like 3 vs 3, just to try it out. The problem is that my buddies have never agreed to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I was wondering: has anyone else has ever done this? And did it work out or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:18:07.060" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:18:07.060" Title="Is it a good idea in TI:3 to play with fixed alliances?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:52:46.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of &lt;strong&gt;avoiding conflict&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/50/ire-and-curses&quot;&gt;ire_and_curses&lt;/a&gt; recommends &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9/what-cooperative-board-games-are-there-that-i-could-safely-play-with-my-wife&quot;&gt;&quot;where each player works together to try and halt the spread of a number of deadly diseases&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T11:52:46.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="500" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:57:00.010" Score="24" ViewCount="7049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested to know if there exists something like a chess timer, but for an arbitrary number of players.  I would like to use this for games such as Carcassonne and Settlers of Catan, where each player's turn is largely independent of the other player's involvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming there is a product like this I would like to hear whether you have found it helpful to play with, or whether you think it causes more problems than it solves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2017-06-16T07:32:18.203" Title="Multiplayer timer for board games" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="215" CreationDate="2010-10-21T11:59:52.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but there are various Risk variants that use exactly the same rules and mechanics, but on a different board. I've got the Lord of the Rings and Star Wars variants, and there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_%28game%29#Official_licensed_Risk_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;others&lt;/a&gt;. As far as I can tell (from the LOTR and Star Wars verions) they normally/often have some extra (and optional) themed rule and unit variations, which, combined with the new map topology, can keep it interesting if you're bored of classic Risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T10:55:45.933" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T10:55:45.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:19:47.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if they exist, but it is fairly easy to create using kitchen clocks or stopwatches. One for each player. Or it can be programmed on the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:19:47.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="502" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:23:03.197" Score="14" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing the 18xx games (create routes for trains and try to get the most money with your trains), it sometimes takes a lot of time to find the optimal route for the trains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know if there is any software available to help with this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="6358" LastEditDate="2013-12-20T19:23:07.750" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T11:59:34.397" Title="Does software for optimizing the train route in 18xx systems exist?" Tags="|18xx|railroad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:26:17.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I an game like Settlers of Catan, a timer like that wont really work. What should happen when a player uses too much time? Should he be excluded from the game? Using cumulative timing in multi player games usually wont work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for Settlers of Catan, there is a lot of player interaction going on, trading haggling etc, which is a big part of the game. This holds true for most of such types of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it much more useful to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a single timer, fx you can only use a certain amount of time each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If things are deadlocked, fx can't make a trade in Settlers that both parties can agree upon, give a count of 5 to make a move, or pass the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:26:17.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:27:10.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing for fun with friends I wouldn't use a timer to limit someone, after all not everyone has the same favorite game and spend different amount of times on it so they'll know the combinations faster/slower. It just feels (for me) wrong and more competitive then a social fun thing which is why I play them at all. So I'd vote for not using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway if you disagree then there's always those small sand timers that even comes with some games (drawing games I think?) you can pick up a few of those for multiplayer where each has his own I suppose. 1 min sand timer on Amazon is like $1-2 a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T12:27:10.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:30:49.350" Score="13" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Watch what other players buy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly attack cards when defense cards are in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be aware of how close to running out the piles are.  Remember, the game ends when any 3 piles are gone from Supply (non-Supply piles like Cornucopia's Prizes or Dark Ages's Spoils do not affect this), when all the Provinces are gone, or when all the Colonies are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Buy piles other players want&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is related to the above.  In particular, don't let one player buy down a single pile, particularly if said pile has plus actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T14:27:57.937" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T14:27:57.937" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-21T18:16:30.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="152" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:48:29.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend notified me of a site he occasionally plays on: &lt;a href=&quot;http://tenhou.net/&quot;&gt;http://tenhou.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to him, it's a nice site. Problem is that it's entirely in Japanese. He's lucky enough to understand Japanese but most people don't so I added this answer just for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Update:&lt;/b&gt; I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamedesign.jp/flash/mahjong/mahjong_e.html&quot;&gt;a nice site&lt;/a&gt; where you can play (only) against the computer. English language, no setup, completely free and easy to use - a great introduction into Mahjong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Update 2:&lt;/b&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong.wikidot.com/list-of-online-clients&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; lists several clients. I did not try them yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragonkong.com/&quot;&gt;DragonKong Mahjong&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://janryumon.plaync.jp/&quot;&gt;Janryumon (雀龍門)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamedesign.jp/flash/mahjong/mahjong_e.html&quot;&gt;Japanese Mahjong by Game Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kinma.jp/main.php&quot;&gt;Kinma Mahjong Online Battle (近代麻雀オンラインバトル)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kong88.com/&quot;&gt;Kong 88&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mahjongtime.com/&quot;&gt;MahjongTime&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.maru-jan.com/&quot;&gt;Maru-Jan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pairon.jp/&quot;&gt;Pairon (ぱいろん)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ron2.jp/&quot;&gt;Ron2 (ロン2)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tenhou.net/&quot;&gt;Tenhou (天鳳)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tetsuya-tonpu.com/&quot;&gt;Tetsuya@Tonpuusou (哲也＠東風荘)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mj.giganet.net/&quot;&gt;Tonpuusou (東風荘)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toupai-ou.com/&quot;&gt;Toupaiou (闘牌王)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tsumo.jp/&quot;&gt;Tsumo (ツモ)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://games.yahoo.com/mj&quot;&gt;Yahoo! Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://games.yahoo.co.jp/games/login.html?page=jmj&quot;&gt;Yahoo!ゲーム - 無料ゲーム - 麻雀&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T14:58:19.263" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T14:58:19.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2010-10-21T12:59:31.743" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;G8 Game Timer&lt;/strong&gt; sounds like what you're looking for, and Greg Aleknevicus has has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamesjournal.com/reviews/G8GameTimer.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a very nice review of it&lt;/a&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamesjournal.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Games Journal&lt;/a&gt;. It seems like it might be &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0009JE7WE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hard to come by&lt;/a&gt; these days, as its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timewellspentgames.com/html/gamepage.php?id=1102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;out of stock&lt;/a&gt; in many stores, &lt;strike&gt;though it appears the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dreamgreen.org/games/g8-game-timer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manufacturer still sells them directly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the review:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To my mind the device only really works well when playing games in which the players take sequential, non-interactive turns of several minutes duration. While this might seem rather restrictive there are lots of games that do fall into this category. Also, it's precisely these games in which a timer is most useful. The aforementioned Tikal is one such example and Vinci is another with which it worked quite well. Ultimately, I can't really say whether I recommend this or not. Not because I don't think it's a worthy piece of game equipment, it is. Rather, because its usefulness will depend so much on the particular game and group that's using it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in the review, a timer is less useful in certain games. Games that involve lots of interaction with other players during your turn, such as trading in Settlers of Catan, mean that the length of your turn doesn't depend only on how fast you play, but also on how fast your opponents make decisions. I don't think that Settlers of Catan would work well with a timer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also need to consider what you do when a player runs out of time; do you simply eliminate them from the game? In a two player game, when you run out of time you lose, and the other player wins; in some multiplayer games, elimination can disproportionately benefit one player over the other ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are games in which people's turns generally go fast enough that the timer is more of a distraction than a benefit. I would put Carcassonne in this category; it doesn't usually take long for someone to place a single tile. If people are taking too long, there's a simple house rule that I use: people draw their tile at the end of their previous turn, instead of the start of the next one. That way, they have everyone else's turn to think about where they want to place it, and the board only changes a bit by the time it gets back around to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some games in which the timer would be useful. Games in which elimination doesn't disrupt the game, which have long turns in which each player plays independently of the others, and which are prone to analysis paralysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T18:22:03.333" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T18:22:03.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="493" CreationDate="2010-10-21T13:29:37.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've done to assist with this problem is to use a pile of D6's of a couple different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place a D6 on each city of one color to represent your smallest train and work your way up to your largest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are finished, pick up the D6's generating your total run profit as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards the end of the game, we usually help each other, as the diesel runs can become quite dramatic as I'm sure you're aware!  It just speeds the game along as we don't want one person obsessing over his run for twenty minutes to gain an extra $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T13:29:37.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2010-10-21T13:43:42.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always played against the same circle of friends and family in the past, and I normally win.  My experience is limited to their playing styles, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start in Australia (against popular advice, it seems), and then progress from there conservatively.  I will never weaken my front by going for that extra territory at all cost. &#xA;Breach out to Japan, and then north.  Strengthen the access point to North America, and then head for Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't forget the power of diplomacy&lt;/strong&gt;!  Don't anger the guy who controls or is trying to control North America - leave that till later.  My experience is that the game ends in a big war between East and West, me being East (for no other reason that the game plays to my liking that way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T13:43:42.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1181" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:01:25.183" Score="10" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been playing the new Space Hulk card game, &quot;Death Angels&quot; at our gaming sessions of late.  We've noticed that the Force Field card (the Librarian Support) seems to be a game-winner, to the extent that our strategies revolve around it 100% when it is available.  Since it can shut down a single swarm of an arbitrarily large size, and since swarms move collectively and merge when they arrive at the same square, our tactics tend to center around herding all the swarms onto a single square, then using &quot;Force Field&quot; infinitely to lock it down while we move through the Hulk at will and eventually reach the last room.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon reaching the last room, frequently the objective has nothing to do with killing all the 'stealers, so we auto-win.  On the few occasions where it does require killing all the stealers, the location card itself frequently provides an out, or we stack all of our support tokens on the librarian and have him 'chain-gun' the swarm down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card itself seems to have robbed the game of much of its challenge. Is this correct, or are we missing something about how the card works and how its mechanics interact with the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T20:32:50.263" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T20:32:50.263" Title="Death Angels - Is the Force Field Overpowered?" Tags="|balance|death-angel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:15:31.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fingertip drumming, tapping your feet and frequently asking &quot;Is it my turn yet?&quot; will help resolve this issue in future game sessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T14:15:31.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:20:17.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the US send over fighters and bombers to Russia as soon as possible. This is the fastest way of reinforcing the front, as russia is able to 'confiscate' allied units in their ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have England concentrate mostly on keeping the seas clean early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T04:50:38.010" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T04:50:38.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="509" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:28:41.577" Score="4" ViewCount="3413" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group of friends really enjoys playing Cranium, but we played it so often that we all more or less memorized the questions and have plans for all the activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there more content available for Cranium, and if so, where can it be found?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T21:31:56.630" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T21:31:56.630" Title="Additional questions for Cranium?" Tags="|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="508" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:53:56.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are booster packs for Cranium that add more cards for each category. For example, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000028F51&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;set&lt;/a&gt; and this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000063XNO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;set&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000Q7I6VW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cranium WOW&lt;/a&gt; edition. It has a whole new set of cards. I've played this version and a lot of the red cards seemed easier than the original version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="100" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T15:04:50.833" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T15:04:50.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="487" CreationDate="2010-10-21T14:57:21.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it helps if you imagine how hard you will laugh when one actually gets through!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not doing the most logical/sensible action can be a lot of fun, even if it costs some fighters (Which are cheap anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't there a technology upgrade that increases the chances of a successful sabotage run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T14:57:21.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-21T15:13:13.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/treehouse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Icehouse Game System&lt;/a&gt; can handle variable amounts of players.  There is a list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Category%3aN-player&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;N-player games&lt;/a&gt; at the Icehouse Game Wiki.  It may not be the most strategic game, but I've played a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/icehouse/MartianCoasters/Index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Martian Coasters&lt;/a&gt; (2-5 Players).  It scales well up to 5 players.  There are tons of other games that support many different amounts of players so there is much to choose from in this game system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="75" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T15:13:13.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="288" CreationDate="2010-10-21T15:31:09.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did find possible Farm &amp;amp; Cart replacement on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamebits.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&amp;amp;cPath=1_44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameBits&lt;/a&gt; not the correct ones but if it is for replacement it might help someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T15:31:09.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-21T16:00:33.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;. My wife and I play the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/1583/puerto-rico-variant-for-2-players-doc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2-player variant&lt;/a&gt; (official variant from the designer) all the time and find it quite satisfactory. Since it's the top rated game on BGG, I think it will probably appeal to both of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also have been enjoying &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/45315/dungeon-lords&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeon Lords&lt;/a&gt; lately. It is quite a bit more complex than PR, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We love &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37380/roll-through-the-ages-the-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roll Through the Ages&lt;/a&gt;, though admittedly, we have both only ever played the version on the iPhone. The full-on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25613/through-the-ages-a-story-of-civilization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Through the Ages&lt;/a&gt; is a great game, but it's a long one. You'll spend your whole afternoon on anything but the introductory version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as games designed expressly for two players, I recently traded in a couple of games that were fairly highly rated, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7804/dracula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dracula&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21763/mr-jack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Jack&lt;/a&gt;, because neither of us particularly liked them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game I put the proceeds towards is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36932/claustrophobia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt;. It's a 2-player asymmetrical game built on direct conflict and interaction between the players. Tons of fun though, we both like it more than the two we sold put together!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T21:28:13.667" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T21:28:13.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2010-10-21T16:16:12.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some people win with a &quot;cities and development cards&quot; strategy. If you have the appropriate combination of resources from your initial settlements (lots of ore and wheat), you can basically spend almost all of your resources on dev cards and cities. Dev cards can help you with the things you're weaker in; road building can help you build roads even if you're short on wood and brick, and other dev cards can help supplement your other resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will need to build at least one more settlement, but you can probably trade for the resources needed for that (or get them through dev cards). And if you buy dev cards early and often, you can rack up a few secret VPs, get the largest army and get rid of the robber to help you produce more of that vital ore and wheat. In this strategy, you generally want to buy at least one city before you start buying dev cards, but after that, alternate between dev cards and cities, with just enough emphasis on your extra road and settlement to make sure it doesn't get blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use this strategy, you don't depend on the exact outcome of two VPs, largest army, and 3 cities. You need to be flexible based on what you draw; if you draw lots of development cards that give you resources, you build out more, possibly getting 4 cities, or you might just wind up with lots of VPs and not even need the third city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you draw lots of soldiers, the person I knew who played this way most often would use them to extort good trades out of people; threaten to put the robber on their best producing tiles, unless they gave him very favorable trades (he used to demand that they simply give him resources, until we noticed the rule that a trade must involve both players giving the other something). Thus, there are two paths to victory; one by VP/largest army, and one by generating lots of resources through dev cards (plus largest army; this strategy pretty much guarantees you that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T17:29:00.320" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T17:29:00.320" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-21T16:18:33.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Awful Green Things from Outer Space is a great two player game, that is always a little different thanks to the unpredictability of what each weapon will do each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T16:18:33.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-21T16:20:21.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OGRE can be a good two player game. One player gets an army, the other gets a giant cyborg-tank. It's a pretty even match-up. There are some strategies that are pretty quick to learn, but you can use a variety of scenarios too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T16:20:21.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-21T16:59:21.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Havre_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Le Havre&lt;/a&gt; with 3, 4 and 5 players, and although the dynamics of the game change, the game is designed to deal with the differing number of players effectively in the way that the end of round 'feeding' phase determines how much food is required. The more the players, the less food required, ensuring that that the game is well balanced regardless of the player numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excellent consideration has gone into this game to deal with the problem of some games being best for a certain number of users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T16:59:21.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="519" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:01:49.347" Score="19" ViewCount="2399" Body="&lt;p&gt;When would you ever want to buy this instead of just buying a Silver for the same price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R684b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Loan Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T21:00:24.143" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T21:02:27.230" Title="When is Loan worth buying?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:21:16.087" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see two benefits to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it's helping you cycle through your deck quickly, which is almost always a good thing.  Theoretically, your discard pile should contain new cards that make your deck stronger, so you want to get to shuffling them in as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, though you don't mention it, Loan gives you the option of &lt;em&gt;trashing&lt;/em&gt; the revealed treasure instead of just discarding it.  If the treasure is a Copper (especially likely early in the game), you will probably want to trash it instead of discarding it, since this can hone down your deck.  But since Loan itself is worth a coin, it always has &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; value, so it won't be clogging your deck with a useless card late in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether this is worth more than a Silver probably depends on your strategy and the other cards available.  If this were the only trashing card available, I would be tempted to buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/2010/11/16/prosperity-loan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this blog post&lt;/a&gt; (and the comments) for a discussion of the statistics concerning Loan. The short version is this: &lt;em&gt;If the Loan does not pull a Treasure you want to trash, it statistically does no harm to your deck, unless your deck is very small.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T21:02:27.230" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T21:02:27.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="527" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:24:36.153" Score="9" ViewCount="6723" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a flush beat a straight in three-card poker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T19:25:20.393" Title="Does a flush beat a straight in three-card poker?" Tags="|poker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:25:19.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mine is similar to Michael Mrozek, but up until recently, we'd had 5-6 people on average playing, and we've had 8 show up before at once (we split into two games then).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to divide responsibilities like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person chooses the kingdom types (using an app)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person has Dominion to pull out cards the first person names.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person has Intrigue to pull out cards the first person names.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person has Seaside to pull out cards the first person names.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If we have any more people, they pull out the treasure and victory cards.  If not, either the person who has Dominion or Intrigue does.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, two of our usual players left, leaving us with 3-5 at any given time.  Plus, we now have Prosperity.  We handle this by having the people pulling cards out of two sets instead of just one, alternating between the two pulling cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T17:25:19.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="564" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:25:50.223" Score="11" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing bridge which bids need to be pointed out/alerted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-03T05:41:53.653" LastActivityDate="2019-04-03T05:41:53.653" Title="In bridge which bids need alerting?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="566" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:31:06.480" Score="10" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter is a huge Blue card fan (she loves mermaids especially). How can I build a solid blue deck on a limited budget with easily obtainable cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastEditorDisplayName="anon77" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T12:18:01.927" LastActivityDate="2017-08-16T01:43:40.230" Title="Building a Blue Deck on a budget?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-08-17T19:30:33.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-10-21T17:43:03.733" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/entertainment/dominion-shuffle_ezmb.html&quot;&gt;Dominion Shuffle&lt;/a&gt; for Android&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd have to go back and use iDominion some more to compare the two, but this is the best option I've found for Android users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn various expansions on and off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require or prohibit a certain card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can set minimums and maximums for any number of things&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Examples: Require at least one card each of costs 2 through 5; require three cost-5 cards; require no more than 4 cards from Intrigue; require [X] +Action/+Buy/trashing cards; etc.  If you can dream it up, you can probably do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows you to set up a pretty detailed list of rules, like requiring a minimum number of X when any Y cards show up.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This lets you do the obvious reaction card(s) to go with attack cards, but you can even use it for odd preferences like: require Mine if prosperity cards are in play; require at least 4 Alchemy cards if any Alchemy cards are in play; require a Moat if a Witch is in play; require Embargo if that annoying card your friend likes is in play; etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T21:58:58.780" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T21:58:58.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="520" CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:01:27.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't beat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike 'normal' Poker, where a flush does beat it, a straight is much less likely with three cards and is ranked higher as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order of probability (least likely first) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight flush &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three of a kind &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Straight &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flush&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pair&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T19:25:20.393" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T19:25:20.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="540" CreationDate="2010-10-21T18:56:35.053" Score="32" ViewCount="27974" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, I'm sitting in a bar, hanging out with a friend or three, and we run out of things to talk about. I think &quot;this would be a great time to play a game, but I don't have one on me.&quot; My local pub has a collection of games in the corner, but they consist of about half a chess set, half a scrabble set with a beat up board, and two thirds of a nice backgammon set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What games are good for playing in a bar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some criteria that can help determine if a game will be appropriate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not too many fiddly little components to get lost; or easily replaceable components if they do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat resilient to spilled beer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything is easy to see, as bars can sometimes be a bit dark&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not too complex; after a couple of beers, remembering a lot of rules can be hard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easily portable, and fits on a small table, or the space between two people at the bar itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, please let me know if you actually have played this game in a bar, and how it went. Some games might seem good for the venue, but turn out not to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note: despite the beer-and-pretzels tag, I'm not interested in solely beer and pretzels games, though those are welcome; games that are a bit deeper can be fine for bars too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T23:55:36.957" Title="Good games for playing in a bar" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="34" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:32:21.897" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:14:52.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played with several of the roles invented by &lt;a href=&quot;http://fringe.davesource.com/Fringe/Entertainment/Games/Indoors/Mafia/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Graduate Mafia Brotherhood of Princeton University&lt;/a&gt;, but the most memorable was the &lt;a href=&quot;http://fringe.davesource.com/Fringe/Entertainment/Games/Indoors/Mafia/v30.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kingmaker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A despotic regime has siezed power, usurping democracy. Each turn, there will be a King or Queen who has the sole power to decide who will be lynched. Open debate is allowed, but the day ends as soon as the King/Queen makes his/her choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kingmaker is a civilian, who, each night, names a King/Queen for the following round. The Kingmaker cannot choose himself, and he cannot choose the same person for two consecutive rounds. The Kingmaker must choose someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One game in particular, the Kingmaker's pleas of &amp;quot;Don't bite the hand that feeds you&amp;quot; went entirely unheeded.  We played the rest of that game democratically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also noticed that with too many roles in use, moderation can get ridiculously hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T19:14:52.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T19:46:52.143" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checkers, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mancala&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mancala&lt;/a&gt; or Backgammon come to mind, granted after a few drinks your moves may not be optimal but hey that's the fun, playing with a &quot;handicap&quot;. And all of these can be purchased in liquid resistant varieties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user61" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T19:46:52.143" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:09:09.737" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A deck of cards can do wonders.  Admittedly not a single game, however that's the strength.  You can pick different games given the preferences and number of players.  Also, you can also get plastic cards which are water resistant and a single deck is quite cheap and portable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for actual game suggestions i like &lt;strong&gt;Cribbage&lt;/strong&gt;.  It can require a separate board for scoring, but it could just as easily be written by hand.  It's a great game for two and there is a three player variant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also happen to be keen on &lt;strong&gt;Pinochle&lt;/strong&gt;, which requires either two decks or buying a special deck.  It's a fun trick taking game with a little bidding for three or four players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="74" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:09:09.737" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:11:14.227" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities go onto the stack when they are cast, activated, or triggered.  Before they resolve, any player is allowed to play other (instant-speed) spells or abilities, which themselves go on the stack and can be responded to.  If no player responds to an item on the stack, the top (most recently played) spell or ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, however, several actions that do not use the stack.  Among them are the turn-based actions, the game actions that happen automatically when steps or phases begin or end.  Declaring attackers is one of those turn-based actions: As soon as the &quot;Declare Attackers&quot; step begins, the attacking player declares any attacking creatures, before anyone gets to play any spells or abilities that step.  This action cannot be responded to; once a creature is declared as an attacker, you cannot tap it to prevent it from attacking.  Even if it has vigilance, tapping it will not remove it from combat unless it's due to regeneration or an effect that explicitly removes something from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are occasions before the Declare Attackers step when opponents are allowed to tap potential attackers; in particular, the end of the pre-combat main phase, and the end of the &quot;beginning of combat&quot; step.  For convenience, most players respect &quot;In response to your declaration to attack&quot; as shorthand for playing something at the end of the main phase.  Note, however, that the attacker is not obligated to declare attackers before such a response, and is free to change any declaration that was proposed before you interrupted it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if your opponent plays Arc Runner and immediately declares it as an attacker, you may play Twitch on that Arc Runner &quot;in response,&quot; by which you really mean at the end of his or her pre-combat main phase.  However, if you do, your opponent is then allowed to attack with any other creatures he or she controls.  On the other hand, if you specifically ask which creatures your opponent is attacking with, you have implicitly given up the ability to play Twitch until after they're attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tapping a creature to remove it from combat, something similar used to apply to &lt;em&gt;blockers&lt;/em&gt;, not attackers.  That rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/advanced/6e/6e_letter.asp&quot;&gt;was removed&lt;/a&gt; in the sixth edition rules update, when the stack was introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:11:14.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:13:38.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gin Rummy is a game I have played in bars, coffee shops, on trains, and in cafes, etc. It requires nothing more than a deck of cards, a notepad and a pen/pencil. For a darker bar, you can always use vision impaired cards with big pips. Plastic cards are resilient to spilled beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for difficulty, it's not very hard to learn and the rules are not overwhelming. It may be better to learn before imbibing; but once you (and others) learn the game it can be played most anywhere. &#xA;Here's a link to the basics: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_3998_play-gin-rummy.html&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_3998_play-gin-rummy.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:13:38.463" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:17:00.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bar games, brings back memories...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to play a game, but I'm not sure about the english name. It was some poker game with three dice and a cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea was that the dice (for example 4, 6 and 2) create the higest possible number (in this case 642). You called the number and the other player accepted or lifted the cup. If the call was accepted, the other player must exceed the number by rerolling one or more dice. Or pass the cup blind with a higher call. If the cup was lifted, and the call was a lie, the caller paid a point, else the lifter paid a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The points where represented by an extra die, starting at 6 and counting down. If you lost on a 1, you had to pay for this round of drinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was simple but fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:17:00.903" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:33:07.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like push your luck games would fit the atmosphere in a bar. The classic push your luck game is Sid Sackson's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41/cant-stop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Can't Stop&lt;/a&gt;. I suspect if you had four dice, pencil, pen, and paper you could work out a way to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:33:07.323" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T20:37:19.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.convivium.org.uk/pdfs/Decathlon_E_v20060701.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reiner Knizia's Dice Decathlon (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; in many strange places, but not in a bar. All you need is 8 dice, pen and paper for keeping score, and the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T20:37:19.827" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:02:07.833" Score="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not so much about the stack, as the order of the turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Phase&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of Combat step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first main phase, there's a step where you can play abilities like tapping, but before they can attack you: Beginning of Combat step. Every turn goes in this order (with minor exceptions) But when we play, we usually don't bother talking about every phase and step, often because nothing happened in them! But they're still part of every turn, if we need to do something then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's nothing wrong with your opponent playing a spell, then moving right on to &quot;I attack you with this guy.&quot; All you have to say is &quot;wait, I want to do stuff at the Beginning of Combat&quot; and back up to that point. Then you tap whoever you want to tap. Just remember, after the tapping your opponent gets to decide how they want to attack, knowing their creature is tapped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after they know you can tap things, in future turns they should stop and ask you before they declare attackers. (You can ask them nicely to do this.) That way they don't give away the info of who they want to attack with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T20:26:39.837" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T20:26:39.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:03:37.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/au/app/dominion-kingdom-deck/id350024780?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Kingdom Deck&lt;/a&gt; for iPhone, free!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the iTunes description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;offers an optional structured randomization mode. In this mode, it guarantees that there is at least 1 card each of 2 cost, 3 cost, 4 cost and 5 cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All current cards for Dominion, Intrigue, Seaside, Alchemy and Prosperity as well as the promo cards Black Market, Envoy and Stash are included as starting data. All sets can be turned on and off to match your playing situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't like a card in the list? Swipe the row and replace it with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a custom set? Add it in with the built-in set editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had a particularly interesting mix of cards? Save the list and recall it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T21:03:37.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:07:18.797" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perudo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Perudo&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liar%27s_dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liar's Dice&lt;/a&gt;) would work great in a bar. You need 5 dice and a cup per person, the rules are easy but the game is hard, there's a lot of interaction, and playing dice and drinking traditionally go together very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The related game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/92415/skull&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skull&lt;/a&gt; can be played with bar coasters and a pen, and is one of the better games for drunk people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T23:55:36.957" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T23:55:36.957" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="541" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:08:17.957" Score="9" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people complain, when they first try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Traitor/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Are You the Traitor?&lt;/a&gt;, that they don't know where to start; a lot of people will just sit there and think about it, without saying anything, or will accidentally reveal their role quickly by the questions they ask or fail to ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good opening questions or strategies for getting the ball rolling, if you're a guard, traitor, or keyholder? While you have different goals in all of those cases, you're trying not to reveal that, so your opening questions or discussion should probably be the same regardless of which role you take. The same question could be asked for the wizards, but for the purpose of this question, lets restrict it to the Adventurers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're an Adventurer, what are good ways to start the game and get the ball rolling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T20:17:48.093" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T20:17:48.093" Title="Good opening questions for Adventurers in Are You the Traitor?" Tags="|openings|are-you-the-traitor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:21:01.797" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you buy a development card, it increase your options because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Development Cards solve your problems.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get a resource you couldn't otherwise, with Monopoly, Year of Plenty, or stealing using a Knight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get more resources by getting the Robber off your land. (Remember you can do this before you roll!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow down an opponent by putting the Robber on their land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build roads quickly to cut someone off or reach a settlement first, with Road Building.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And they don't, on average, actually cost 3 resources. Monopoly, Year of Plenty, and Knight all gain you at least one back, which you can choose (even somewhat when stealing with the knight). Road Building is worth 4 resources. Even if you get a victory point, how many resources do other victory points cost? Settlement is 4, City is 5. Longest Road is a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the low effective cost of development cards, and the gains you get from them, buying development cards actually banks your resources in a fairly fluid way, yet out of your hand so you don't have too many cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, when should you buy development cards? Anytime you can and you don't have something else you'd rather build THAT TURN. Buying the card means all the better chance of building whatever you want next turn. I buy Development Cards whenever I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One last note, if you are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/48/in-settlers-of-catan-how-do-you-overcome-bad-initial-settlement-placement/66#66&quot;&gt;richest in sheep, development cards are probably your shortest path to victory&lt;/a&gt; (combined with some expansion/cities).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2017-08-03T15:14:57.177" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T15:14:57.177" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="557" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:29:35.130" Score="22" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family enjoys playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boggle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boggle&lt;/a&gt;. Usually it's all adults that play, but come the holidays it's not uncommon to have elementary and junior high aged cousins, nieces, and nephews interested in playing but lack the vocabulary (and practice time!) the adults enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions on how to handicap the adults to make the game more balanced when younger players join? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T14:33:07.267" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:03:48.023" Title="Ideas for handicapping strong players?" Tags="|house-rules|kids|boggle|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:36:44.523" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could require the more experienced players to find words with a minimum number of letters. Like, they need at least 5 letters in the word to count? Or, the younger players could be given additional time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastEditorUserId="100" LastEditDate="2010-10-21T21:43:00.313" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T21:43:00.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-21T21:41:08.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have nothing but a pen and a napkin, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Dots_and_Boxes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dots game&lt;/a&gt; could be something super simple to pass the time. And, it doesn't require a whole lot of brain power. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T21:41:08.427" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2010-10-21T22:16:08.977" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife kicks serious butt at Boggle, so much so that I don't like playing with her anymore.  I asked her this question, and without hesitating, she said &quot;Either give the kids double the time, or the adults half the time&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have to try this with her at some point (with me receiving the handicap) :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T22:16:08.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="559" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:06:43.227" Score="4" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the chain of events: I activate &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/The_Shallow_Grave&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Shallow Grave&lt;/a&gt; to special summon a needle worm from my graveyard (and my opponent chooses their monster), and then my opponent uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/D.D._Crow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;D.D. Crow&lt;/a&gt; to remove the needle worm from play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my opponent still get the monster he has chosen to special summon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T01:50:11.637" Title="Question about The Shallow Grave (Spell Card)" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:18:41.930" Score="37" ViewCount="14678" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, there's a variant where instead of rolling the dice, you use a stack of 36 cards with each combination. This reduces the luck component, but has as disadvantage that you can predict future rolls to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iPhone Catan game also allows this rule variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you tried this and do you think it's an improvement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Have you tried other methods of reducing the importance of luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T12:39:16.093" LastActivityDate="2019-04-07T16:50:57.633" Title="What are some alternatives to using dice in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|variants|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:25:14.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's not part of any sort of larger tournament or ranking system, then there's pretty much no difference between everyone losing and a draw, so it's just going to wind up being an issue of perception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution, then, would be to play it in the context of a ranking system or tournament. I don't know the game in question, so I don't know what the possible outcomes are, but you could assign different point values to different results; winning gets you 1 point, losing gets you 0, and Rome falling gets everyone -1. Then people will have an incentive not to let Rome fall; if they do, they will lose rank compared to other players not in that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, this sort of brinksmanship between the fall-of-Rome-is-a-loss and fall-of-Rome-is-a-draw crowds may be an intentional feature of the game. After all, it's not all that uncommon for some politicians or political parties to focus so hard on winning their own particular issues that they're willing to put the whole country at risk (state, nation, empire, what have you) if they don't get their way. It sounds like a pretty realistic political situation, if you ask me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T00:15:32.707" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T00:15:32.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:27:11.567" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this variation, and to be honest, I don't think I would want to either.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Randomness in games can bother me, but Settlers of Catan is one of those games where I don't mind the randomness.  With the deck-of-cards variation, you know at some point in the next 36 cards that, for example, a 2 and a 12 &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; come up at some point, and if you can count cards, you can most certainly predict what the next results will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me, I rather be amused when we spend six turns in a row rolling a 3.  That's just part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T23:27:11.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:36:19.810" Score="13" ViewCount="2077" Body="&lt;p&gt;After getting the Rio Grande Treasure Chest for the two Puerto Rico expansions, I want to spice up my set of Puerto Rico a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend any good sites where I could get physical coins to use instead of the $1 and $5 pieces in the game?  I was thinking period-authentic replicas, or just even nice looking small gold and silver doubloon-looking coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T15:39:48.373" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T02:59:52.873" Title="Alternatives to the coins supplied in Puerto Rico" Tags="|puerto-rico|components|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-04-01T21:36:17.560" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="552" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:44:46.940" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamebits.com/store/&quot;&gt;Board Game Bits&lt;/a&gt; has little wooden disks in various sizes.  You could get some cheap plastic pirate coins you can get at pirate stores.  This might help spice things up also.  There is also a company out of Australia, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.campaigncoins.com.au/&quot;&gt;Campaign Coins&lt;/a&gt;, that specializes in coinage useful for games and LARPs.  They're prices are a little steep at $7 for ten coins, but they have a good selection of different designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-21T23:44:46.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-10-21T23:55:43.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5460/the-deck-of-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deck of cards&lt;/a&gt;, but everyone I play with just wants to roll dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I bought &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dice#Manufacturing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;precision dice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="10112" LastEditDate="2019-04-05T23:53:30.203" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T23:53:30.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-22T00:04:32.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phase 10&lt;/a&gt;.  The cards are fairly easy to play, and you can play it with a couple friends.  Decks are also very inexpensive so once they get really dirt, buy another one.  Having played it enough at coffee shops to wear out one set of cards, I think it fits the bill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T00:04:32.040" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2010-10-22T00:05:31.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fall-of-Rome-is-a-draw players are right: they realize that, like all games, it's a zero-sum game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To solve this the other players should make sure that any players that can bring Rome down still have a chance of victory. They have power and deserve the concessions they ask for. It's very interesting from a game theorical perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T00:05:31.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2010-10-22T00:30:36.930" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Group the players according to skill level. Each of your words are eliminated if anybody in your group or below has a duplicate word. Players in groups higher than yours cannot eliminate your words, but you can eliminate theirs. I think there should be at least two players in the lowest group, but maybe you want to be really kind to the most junior player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tested this, it might be too unbalanced. Try experimenting with the group sizes. I suspect fewer groups would be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T00:30:36.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-22T00:38:08.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a whole bunch of appropriate games listed in this article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamesjournal.com/articles/GameSystems4.shtml&quot;&gt;low tech game systems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T00:38:08.973" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="547" CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:50:11.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on this ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Disappear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Disappear&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a card that selects a card in the Graveyard as a target, such as &quot;Monster Reborn&quot;, &quot;Mask of Darkness&quot;, &quot;Magician of Faith&quot;, &quot;Spear Cretin&quot;, or &quot;The Shallow Grave&quot;, is activated, you may chain &quot;Disappear&quot; to remove the targeted card from play, and the &quot;Monster Reborn&quot;, etc., will &lt;strong&gt;resolve without effect&lt;/strong&gt;. This is because these cards select their target at activation, not resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings%3aDisappear&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent wouldn't get the monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D.D. Crow appears to work exactly like Disappear when discarded.  So the same ruling should apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T01:50:11.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2010-10-22T01:54:27.510" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use different scoring for the kids and the adults. The normal scoring is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Word length 3 4 5 6 7 8+&#xA;Points      1 1 2 3 5 11&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the less skilled players, you could try something more like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Word length 3 4 5 6 7  8+&#xA;Points      2 3 4 6 10 15&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which increases the reward for finding &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; words not found by the veteran players, and gives huge bonuses for large words (which are even more unlikely for them). You can adjust the values up or down depending on the relative skill levels of the junior players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea, related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/543/ideas-for-handicapping-strong-boggle-players/557#557&quot;&gt;Don Kirkby's interesting answer&lt;/a&gt;, is to automatically score words over a certain size for the juniors (instead of discounting them if others have them) - for example, any word over 5 letters. This encourages the children to put the effort in for the larger words, which for them is likely a much more challenging task than for the grown-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T01:15:46.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-22T02:29:38.097" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might seem surprising, but playing chess in a bar or pub can work really well, with the right people. A particularly fun social variation that I used to play a lot we called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bughouse_chess&quot;&gt;Exchange Chess&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. It's not a hugely skillful game, but it tends to be quick, loud, cooperative, and leads to lots of good-natured abuse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two or three boards, adjacent to each other, with alternating colours. The players on each side form a team (so there are two teams). The rules are the same as normal chess, with the following additions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever you take a piece, you pass the captured piece to your adjacent team-mate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it's your go, you can choose to either make a normal move, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; place one of your stash of received pieces on the board. There are a couple of restrictions; you may not place your opponent directly in check with a placed piece, and you may not place a pawn on the first, seventh or eighth ranks. It's fine to place a piece to block a check on your own king.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get a pawn to the end of the board, you can 'queen' it. But if the pawn is captured, it is passed to the other player as a pawn, not a queen (or any other piece).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are allowed to communicate with your team members (&quot;Hey, it would be great if I had a bishop available right now!&quot;), but you're not allowed to delay your game to wait for an adjacent game (this is called &quot;stalling&quot;). This is a gentleman's agreement; there are no hard and fast rules for stalling. Expect to be yelled at if you delay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's considered bad form to think for more than a few seconds for each move. Play should be fast and fluid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If an individual game ends, chalk up the result to the winning team, and reset the board (the other boards continue to play). If you don't have enough pieces, you must use what you've got. Extra pieces beyond those of a normal game setup are not placed, but are available for placement in subsequent turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The winning team is the first to some number of points (5 works quite well). There tends to be a snowball effect where once one team gets the upper hand, things go rapidly downhill for the others. Having a fixed winning point, and then starting the series again with equal pieces helps keep things fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the cool things about this game is the bizarre situations that can arise. It's perfectly possible to have 4 white-squared bishops, for example. The other big advantage is that poor players have a much better chance against chess aficionados, especially if the teams are balanced, because there's a lot of unpredictability to the game. This gives the game a much wider appeal to beginners than standard chess (where, if you're a beginner, you almost always lose to even a moderately skilled amateur).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T21:53:18.593" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T21:53:18.593" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="485" CreationDate="2010-10-22T02:48:45.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few things to weigh up here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What else could you get with the points?&lt;/em&gt; It's easy to go overboard on your 'hero' units, and forget that you could spend that extra 15 points on more basic troops. With Orks, huge numbers is a core strategy. A few extra Boyz could be much more valuable to you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Who do you expect to be facing?&lt;/em&gt; Ignoring armour is a much more useful ability against Space Marines and Necrons than it is against Dark Eldar or Tyranids. If you regularly play against a few particular armies, then this is particularly relevant. More tactically, consider whether your Ork Nob will be likely to be in a situation where he can make use of armour-ignoring abilities. Will he be attacking tanks, Dreadnoughts, or souped up heroes? Or is the primary role of the squad to act as cannon fodder, or take down more generic troops? Bottom line - there's no point taking expensive custom stuff if you don't make use of it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What do your other models have?&lt;/em&gt; I like giving identical units different weapons, just for variety. This is also handy when you need to pull out a specialised weapon combo for a particular scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What do you like the look of more?&lt;/em&gt; This is actually an important point, in my opinion. Warhammer is about aesthetics and cool models just as much as it is about optimising armies and strategies. If you think the &lt;code&gt;Big Choppa&lt;/code&gt; looks much better, that's a strong argument for taking that as a weapon!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing the answers to these questions, I can't give you a straight recommendation. The &lt;code&gt;Klaw&lt;/code&gt; is clearly a much more powerful weapon. But whether the cost (both points and aesthetic) is justified depends on all these factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T02:48:45.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:02:33.897" Score="8" ViewCount="4659" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several &lt;strong&gt;18xx&lt;/strong&gt; games easily available, maybe 8 or so that have mass produced and a few dozen kits that can be purchased or downloaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love 18xx games, but I've found that not everyone I teach shares my enthusiasm.  I understand that some games will never appeal to certain folks but I think that part of the problem is the relative complexity of 18xx games.  As a group, they have several different mechanics that have to be learned for a new player to play a credible game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this question I'm looking for recommendations for the best 18xx game to teach a new player.  The game should have the best chance of hooking new players and getting them to want to explore the genre deeper.  I think that the best game would have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a shorter playing time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The importance of Private companies should be minimized. I've found that asking people to bid right at the start of the game on things they don't understand is very intimidating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tolerance for mistakes (I'm thinking of the ease of sliding into bankruptcy for even experienced players in 1830 here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T22:45:05.293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T13:25:44.940" Title="What is the best 18xx game to teach someone?" Tags="|recommendations|teaching|18xx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:39:44.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="522" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:24:55.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general you must alert when your bid does not conform to the expectations of the people at the event/table you are playing at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various organizations and clubs have more specific bids and conditions that you must alert on.  Some have bids that never require alerts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T03:24:55.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="477" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:32:37.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, that is correct.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your domain has no knights it can only expand into territory that is not part of any domain.  In this case you should get some knights into your domain and take advantage of your neighbor before he does the same to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T03:32:37.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2010-10-22T03:45:16.917" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to build a reasonable deck of any colour for casual play using just standard commons. It won't be particularly exciting, but as long as you have a reasonably large fraction of creatures, go easy on the enchantments, and choose cards to follow the mana curve (i.e. some low cost, some high cost, most in-between), you'll be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not entirely sure what you mean by 'mermaids'. If you're referring to Merfolk, then yes, you should be able to build a reasonable deck based on that theme relatively cheaply. A basic idea would be 4x &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=106642&quot;&gt;Lord of Atlantis&lt;/a&gt;, 4x &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159155&quot;&gt;Sunken City&lt;/a&gt;, and then your choice of Merfolk cards (of which there are lots; many are common). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a list of Merfolk to give you an idea of the possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5Bmerfolk%5D&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5Bmerfolk%5D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2010-11-16T02:18:20.397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T02:18:20.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="575" CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:01:00.213" Score="28" ViewCount="4058" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play Settlers of Catan, I often find myself rapidly bored by the trading component of the game. This is normally because of one or two players who insist on endlessly protracted negotiations for any item. These always start at ludicrous extremes (&quot;I want a lumber.&quot;, &quot;I'll give you a lumber - for 3 sheep, a brick and two ore!&quot;, &quot;No way!&quot;, etc. etc.) and take forever to converge (if they ever do). I find this type of thing can quickly suck the life out of the game. This is a shame, as, apart from that aspect, the game is quite entertaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you handle this sort of behaviour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T08:50:32.153" Title="How do I avoid the endless trade negotiations in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|trading|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:14:10.550" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Small World&lt;/strong&gt;, as soon as you discover that someone has a combo that seems powerful you need only to do a couple things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kill off any declined empire of his&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regularly snipe a territory or two of his every turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at least one other players agrees with you, the declined empire should be gone by the start of his second turn with the powerful combo (at the latest).  Without a declined empire regularly gaining a few VPs/turn, it is very hard to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next you have to deal with the elves.  You definitely don't want him expanding to 8 territories and taking 16VPs/turn!  8 elves can be knocked back pretty easily.  He has no combat bonuses on either offense or defense, so you should be able to reduce him to a max of 2 territories at the start of his turn pretty fast.  Bottle him up with stacks 2-3 high, this will limit his expansion and should keep his VP generation below yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to go into decline early and often.  Grab any combo with a combat advantage of some sort and exploit it.  Once it plays out, get another one.  The Merchant Elves will be stuck fighting for the same 2-4 territories every turn until he goes into decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merchant only gives +2 troops, everything else except Fortified (+3) gives at least +4 troops.  This means that Merchant is meant to be a very powerful ability, on the other hand, you will almost certainly outnumber him.  Grab a combat oriented power on top of that and the battles should greatly favor you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some combos that might be particularly annoying to the merchant elves are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flying Ratmen or Amazons (attack his soft underbelly with a ton of troops)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounted Skeletons should have him restricted to the mountains in no time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stout anything - just throw them at him and go get another empire while he cleans up the carnage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commando Giants - grab mountains, anything around them will probably fall to 1 attacking giant!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T04:14:10.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:31:09.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just a case of a player taking too long to take their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just house rule in a turn time limit, say &quot;You should finish your turn in X minutes/seconds/whatever, except in really extraordinary circumstances.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming everybody's just playing for fun, it shouldn't be too contentious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you find your games are really competitive you might consider a proper time piece to enforce stricter time limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T04:31:09.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2010-10-22T04:37:04.733" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played with some slow players, but those folks sound extreme!  Here is how I would handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, agree on a time limit for trading and enforce it.  Next, initiate trading with the players you know are more reasonable.  If an agreement can be reached, ask the problem traders if they can beat it.  Don't give them long to answer and then move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider starting closer or even on a good port if you are playing with these players.  If they know you can trade 3:1 or better it should loosen them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be sure to enforce the rule that requires you to be a part of all trade discussions during your turn.  IE, this should not happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You - I need Lumber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 - I'll give you a lumber for 3 sheep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 to Player 1 - I'd do it for 3 sheep and a brick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T04:37:04.733" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2010-10-22T05:18:53.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If people want exorbitant quantities of resources for a trade, I just don't bother trading with them.  Encourage your friends to be reasonable, or deny trades.  A little mediation on your own part might even be worth it.  I know I've successfully encouraged other players to trade to my own determent.  I would have won when my turn came by claiming largest army had my friend not gotten the resources to build that city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your going to take forever to cut a deal, I don't mind commenting.  If people are willing to pay exorbitant rates, I'll undercut them if I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T05:18:53.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="134" CreationDate="2010-10-22T05:28:00.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The order should proceed like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All damage is assigned (leave the damage tokens near the unit to be damaged)  Note: a target may be over assigned damage at the player's discretion but this is not required except in the case of damage cancellation even when you know the unit will survive due to other protective effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Certain effects trigger and are resolved including redirecting damage.  In this case, the Priests are able to redirect one damage point, preferably to a unit with toughness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage is moved onto the card, destroying any cards that still have damage equal to its hit points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source - FAQ and Rules on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=85&amp;amp;esem=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight's&lt;/a&gt; website&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T05:28:00.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="587" CreationDate="2010-10-22T05:46:01.657" Score="15" ViewCount="16621" Body="&lt;p&gt;My grandparents passed away recently, and my mother is cleaning out their house. They have some vintage board games (ca. 1960's, maybe?) in their house, and she's wondering what to do with them. I don't know if any of them are collectible or not; she sent me a rather low-res picture in which a few are identifiable: Mille Bornes, Barrel of Monkeys, Flinch, Contack, Yahtzee, a few card games like Old Maid and Crazy Eights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about finding out if there's a market for any of these? I tried checking &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;, which shows what's for sale there and on eBay, but that tells me nothing about whether anyone is actually buying those games (well, in some cases it tells me a little; if there are a bunch of eBay auctions, all with no bids, there probably isn't much demand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any good way for me to determine if there's a demand for any of these games? Is there a good place I should try and sell them? Or should I just give them to the local thrift store, as it probably won't be worth the hassle of storing them and listing them for sale?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T08:37:18.543" LastActivityDate="2019-05-13T22:11:14.193" Title="How can I tell if these vintage boardgames are worth anything?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="488" CreationDate="2010-10-22T07:21:02.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never tried it, and I think that making and breaking alliances is a big part of the game. The fact that there can be only one winner keeps everyone on their toes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you resolve secret objectives? Will you still go for the victory point path or would you try galaxy domination?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T07:21:02.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2010-10-22T07:26:46.070" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't engage in it. Start with your offer (Make it a fair one the first time round), and break it off as soon as someone tries to squeeze a little more out of the deal. People will tend to loosen up as soon as they realize they are not getting any deals done thanks to their negotiation urges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple 'no's work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T07:26:46.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="581" CreationDate="2010-10-22T07:39:43.190" Score="5" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ork codex says that Ork Boyz has the following option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For every ten Orks in the mob, one Ork may exchange his slugga or shoota for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;big shoota (+5 points per model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;rokkit launcha (+10 points per model)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I have a 30-Ork mob. Does that mean that I can have 3 big shootas AND 3 rokkit launchas in it or I can only have 3 of either big shoota or rokkit launcha?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T11:08:24.893" Title="Replacing weapons in Ork mob" Tags="|warhammer-40k|orks|space-orks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="625" CreationDate="2010-10-22T08:08:14.313" Score="76" ViewCount="11511" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, I sometimes try to ask people if they want to trade a certain resource, tricking them into revealing the approximate amount of that resource in everyone's hand. After this I play the monopoly card. This has on some occasions not been received very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this fair play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T00:26:52.850" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T17:24:05.967" Title="Is pretending to want to trade before playing a monopoly card objectionable?" Tags="|catan|trading|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-22T08:18:06.037" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, its not illegal.  It is... a bit underhanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd change the way I played with you, but I wouldn't house rule it away or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T08:18:06.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-22T09:46:30.583" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's lame :P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at my table you wouldn't be reprimanded, but expect future trade to get a little more difficult. This is an awesome way to get the rest to gang up on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T09:46:30.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:06:05.860" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building an inexpensive blue deck means concentrating on one of the strategies it does well at common, which could mean &quot;mill&quot; (causing your opponent to draw out his or her deck), cheap flyers, card drawing, or creature denial (cards like Unsummon or Sleep). These strategies tend to dovetail nicely with merfolk. Merfolk themselves have a &quot;strategy,&quot; as there are many cards that give bonuses to other merfolk you control, or allow you to tap them for various effects. These &quot;fish&quot; decks are playable in many different formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/displaythemedeck.asp?set=lorwyn&amp;amp;decknum=4&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;preconstructed blue/white Merfolk deck&lt;/a&gt; was released in 2008; they're still fairly easy to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T11:20:33.077" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T11:20:33.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="576" CreationDate="2010-10-22T11:08:24.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are allowed 1 heavy weapon per 10 Orks, but you can choose which one it is - a Big Shoota (BS) or Rokkit Launcha (RL). They don't all have to be the same type. In other words, with 30 Orks, the maximum heavy weapons you are allowed to have are either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3RL&#xA;1BS + 2RL&#xA;2BS + 1RL&#xA;3BS&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T11:08:24.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-22T12:14:39.317" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends how it's done, when done with a glimpse in the eye after you have proclaimed  how you have loads of resource x, it can actually be quite fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole trading in Settlers is used for much more than simply getting resources. While you do it, you learn about what resources players have and that can be used to form better tactics concerning road/village building, when you're in a race against another player. You should be aware about this when talking about trades as you don't really want to reveal too much about what you have in your hand. Getting the monopoly card played on you isn't the biggest danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T12:14:39.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-10-22T12:40:30.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally bought an old 1960 Mille Bornes game on eBay. I wanted the old game for sentimental reasons, but I wasn't willing to pay too much for it.  When I was shopping for those, there were some at around $20.00 USD, but with patience I found one for $12.60 USD  including shipping. While I was happy to find one, this is not an outstanding value for this particular game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes there is always demand for these games; I personally think eBay is a good place to evaluate the values of those. But you will only get a good price if you are patient and/or lucky. Is it worth the hassle? It depends of how you evaluate the whole process of selling them. But I would personally pack them in the basement and wait for the next garage sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T16:25:24.687" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T16:25:24.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="563" CreationDate="2010-10-22T12:50:06.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1830, 1870, 1856 and 1833. Of them, I think &lt;strong&gt;1830&lt;/strong&gt; is the most suitable for new players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains the basics of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Private companies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Track building&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Route optimization&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Company management&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock manipulations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a simpler game, you can ignore the private companies. Lower the starting money a bit if you like. I have played with and without privates and it seems to make no significant changes to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stock market is too confusing, you can ignore that too. Just have one company per player. It's possibly wise to reduce the number of trains, else you never get rid of those 2 trains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most players run away from these, so no need to get a more complex game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 18xx have their own focus. I like 1856, because you can get away with mismanagement and get rewarded in the end (just like in real life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T16:54:10.287" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T16:54:10.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-22T14:08:35.243" Score="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's not as bad as actually trading all of one of your resources away for other things, and then using &quot;Monopoly&quot; to get it all back. I've seen people play that way before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Underhanded, yes. Illegal, no. The problem with playing this way is that it can really poison the friendly feel of the game. I had a player who used this tactic, as well as other aggressive ones like extorting good trades from people by threatening them with the robber. When someone plays like that regularly, the best way to deal with it is for others to gang up on them, which then leads to arguments about people being out to get them, and grudges held between games. It wound up being so bad that I stopped playing Settlers if this other player was going to be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as just using trade offers to find out what people have, that's not nearly so bad. Heck, you don't even need to do that; you can keep track of what resources everyone has. The only way someone might get resources that you don't know about are with the robber, but that leaves the same set of resources on the table, just in a different person's hand. So, you shouldn't even have to do this; just keep better track of what resources people earn and what they spend. If you can't remember, just try and think back for what the last few numbers rolled were, and what the last few things they built; you should be able to work out pretty well what they have a lot of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you offer trades to people, and then just grab the resources with &quot;Monopoly&quot; instead, they'll think that's cheap and feel burned; you've gotten their hopes up for a trade, and then dashed them by stealing resources. If you just keep track of what resources they have, and then seem to &quot;magically&quot; guess the right ones, they'll be disappointed that they lost the resources, but impressed that you managed to get so lucky with your &quot;guess.&quot; How would you rather people feel about you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T04:15:11.733" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T04:15:11.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-10-22T14:17:37.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.millersantiquesguide.com/browse/games/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Games section&lt;/a&gt; of the well respected &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.millersantiquesguide.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Miller's Antiques &amp;amp; Collectables Price Guide&lt;/a&gt; might be a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T23:19:10.197" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T23:19:10.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-10-22T14:47:57.070" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at who wants a game on BoardGameGeek, you can get an idea if there is any demand for the game.  (It's under the statistics section on BoardGameGeek.)   Unfortunately, for any item in a market, it's hard to know if people are actually buying that item.  While I haven't done it for board games, I've followed eBay auctions with active bids to see what they close at.  It can be difficult to see if an item will sell, without trying to sell it.  I'm skeptical of price guides for antiques cause just cause people say something will sell for X, doesn't meany anyone will pay that for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always donate them to a something like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.salvationarmyusa.org/&quot;&gt;Salvation Army&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goodwill.org/&quot;&gt;Goodwill&lt;/a&gt; if you'd just like to have them find new homes.  I'm not sure it costs money to put things up in the BoardGameGeek marketplace, but you could list them on their instead to see if they're interesting to general gamers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T14:47:57.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="590" CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:21:14.460" Score="9" ViewCount="2396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that Hasbro released a new version of Clue last year named &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0017RQYDC&quot;&gt;Clue: Discover the Secrets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need to use a different strategy in this game, or is it similar to the earlier Clue games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played both the original Clue and its Master Detective variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know because I was thinking of getting it, but wanted to know if it was different enough from the original to warrant a purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-11-01T18:23:58.273" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T18:23:58.273" Title="Differences between Clue/Cluedo and Clue: Discover the Secrets" Tags="|cluedo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:32:43.810" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our group we have the same problem. Usually we urge everybody to &lt;strong&gt;think ahead&lt;/strong&gt;. So when it's your turn you don't have to think of everything at that time. That usually works pretty well. Of course things can change during the other person's turn, but in most games, thinking ahead and keeping everyone's attention on the game definitely will speed things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem we sometimes have is that someone constantly has to look stuff up because he is not 100% sure of the rules. Playing a certain game on a regular basis will solve that problem though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="117" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T15:58:56.057" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T15:58:56.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="588" CreationDate="2010-10-22T15:59:09.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Character changes, mostly now its a teen approach: Kasandra Scarlet, Jack Mustard, Diane White, Jacob Green, Eleanor Peacock, Victor Plum. Starting spaces have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The House is now complete with Spa and Observatory inhabited by the Hollywood elite such as the bat wielding ex-football player and software billionaire fond of dumbbells. Rooms are: Hall, Guest House, Dining Room, Kitchen, Patio, Spa, Theater, Living Room, Observatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characters have special powers. I.e., Kasandra Scarlet can once a game look at a card that one player has just shown another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intrigue cards offer new rules. And there are some slight other changes in rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Purists hate it. My kids think its fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="anon77" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-22T16:06:23.760" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T16:06:23.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="594" CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:19:17.370" Score="40" ViewCount="28622" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight I'll be playing Power Grid for the second time with my game group. It's the second time for all of us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What key strategy or tactic should I focus on to give me the best chance of winning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:11:42.703" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T18:26:35.630" Title="Beginner Power Grid strategy" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:40:24.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this would qualify as a party game, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/140/pit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pit&lt;/a&gt; starts to work well at 3-4 players and works up to at least 10 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to use different cards than the original, though, which does not always have support for very many players (depending on the edition). What I have done with great success is take three decks of regular playing cards and use as many &lt;em&gt;numbers&lt;/em&gt; as there are players, with nine cards of each number (necessarily selecting across all three decks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T16:40:24.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2010-10-22T16:43:55.883" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really isn't a set strategy here, but a number of tips I've found useful from playing Power Grid, and I hope they can help you, too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at what everyone is buying -- if you're playing 3rd in a 5 player game, and the first two players bought coal plants, consider going with a different fuel source, as coal could get expensive quickly if everyone is buying it.  Pay attention to how quickly fuel sources will replenish at the end of the turn as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are first to buy resources, consider buying the maximum amount.  It may cost you a little extra to buy them, but anyone else needing those resources is going to have to pay that much more.  Feel free to put the squeeze on people this way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't overpay for Enrvironmental plants -- the environmental plants (the wind plants) are definitely a good buy, and everyone knows that.  If you get lucky and can buy one at the end of the round for face value, go for it.  If the #37 shows up and it gets bid up to $60 or $70 quickly, think very hard about how much you'll be saving if you buy it.  They're good, but don't overpay for them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Beware the East coast -- there are lots of cheap connections in the East coast, which is great for expanding quickly, but if you buy lots of houses quickly, you'll be in first position, which means you'll be going last lots of the time.  Also, with cheap connections, people might crowd around you and block you in, meaning you may have to expand two or three hubs away, and pay some steep connection costs.  I personally like moving into the East coast during phase 2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nuclear plants are great later on -- early on, nuclear fuel is very expensive.  Within a few turns, however, the fuel can get down to $7 or $8 for a single piece.  Compared to how much coal and oil may end up costing, nuclear plants are good for mid- to -late game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Time when you buy cities -- sometimes there may be a good plant on the table coming up, and you want first shot at it.  If everyone else is buying cities, consider staying at a lesser amount of cities so you have a better chance at going first.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't buy plants for the sake of buying plants -- If a good plant comes up, feel free to bid on it, but don't feel like you have to bid every turn.  Try to buy as few plants as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a long-term strategy -- if the game will end when someone has built their 14th house, figure out what combination of plants will best get you to 14, such as a 4/4/6 setup, 4/5/5 setup, 3/5/6 setup, whatever.  There are some fantastic plants mid-game that you can use for the rest of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I think of anything else, I'll add them here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T16:43:55.883" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:19:24.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I alway do is search for them on &lt;a href=&quot;http://toys.shop.ebay.com/Games-/233/i.html?_trksid=p3910.c0.m485&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ebay&lt;/a&gt; and see how things are going.  If there's a few auctions there then follow them to see how they end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T17:19:24.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:29:10.993" Score="13" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to minimize the number of plants you buy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aim to end up with enough plants to power the endgame # of houses&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't buy more than one four plant unless it's great deal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look carefully at the resource costs and double buy if it looks like a resource is in demand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A simple strategy is to alternate being first and being last&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't think that $1 doesn't matter&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't always take the cheapest cities, sometimes you need to block others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place your first houses where the connections are cheap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to bid up other power plants, carefully&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hide your money, don't let others make accurate calculations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T17:29:10.993" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-22T17:36:05.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people get upset over less underhanded Monopoly grabs, but I wouldn't expect the bad feeling to linger excessively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I made a legitimate trade request for a resource I knew an opponent had (it had been recently rolled), but was rejected.  I responded with the Monopoly card, even though it netted only one of the resource, because I really needed it that turn.  The other players were much more wary of my trade requests for the rest of the game; one even asked what would happen if they refused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T17:36:05.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="604" CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:31:00.870" Score="27" ViewCount="3485" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love Diplomacy. The alliances, intrigue, negotiation, backstabbing, and the relatively simple mechanics that help emphasize the diplomatic aspect over the game mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it can be hard to find a group of people to play it with; not everyone likes such a cutthroat game, it requires 7 players (I hear you can do it with fewer, but that it's not as good), and it takes up a whole day to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good games that have a similar diplomatic and negotiation focus, but which play quicker, require fewer players or are more flexible in player number? A game will be a good fit if the diplomatic aspect of alliances, backstabbing, and the like is a substantial or the majority of the game, with less emphasis on individual strategy, tactics, and luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:37:45.280" Title="Diplomacy &quot;lite&quot;?" Tags="|recommendations|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:19:08.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="629" CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:38:18.610" Score="14" ViewCount="4780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played both regular Settlers of Catan and the Seafarers of Catan Expansion, but I haven't yet played Cities &amp;amp; Knights and I’m curious about how it plays.  I've noticed a lot of people speak very favorably of Cities &amp;amp; Knights, some even claim it’s the only way to play Catan.  I've read about how the game works, but I'm skeptical about the changes made in the expansion.  How does the expansion improve gameplay in Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T17:01:58.257" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T17:01:58.257" Title="How is gameplay improved in the Cities &amp; Knights Expansion?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-22T18:51:16.093" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/242/junta&quot;&gt;Junta&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Junta you play leaders of a Banana republic.  Each turn the elected El Presidente hands out various offices and announces the budget for the year and who will be receiving how much.  He doesn't reveal how much he's keeping for himself though :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone is unhappy with their allocation they can arrange a coup, marshal their forces and try to unseat El Presidente.  If they don't wish to go with the open war route, they can try to assassinate any other player by guessing their location from among the 5 allowed each turn.  Assassinations are only a temporary inconvenience as your brother/uncle/cousin will be happy to take over the family business :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to get as much cash as you can into your swiss bank account.  The only way to put money into it is to go to the bank, and survive the inevitable assassination attempts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game will take upwards of 2 hours, but a shorter game can easily be done by not using the full money deck.  It is a lighthearted game, but full of diplomacy, bluffing, and backstabbing.  On turns without a coup (probably every other turn) there is no significant use of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T18:51:16.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:00:09.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The whole knight/barbarian system makes up for some interesting scenarios, in that you can both gain victory points or cause other players to loose their cities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knights can be used in a variety of ways instead of just moving the thief. You can destroy other knights by forcing them to move when they can't you can block the roads, to prevent the longest road achievement, etc, which gives some nice strategy options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I really like the new resource system, where you can focus on advancing or building using cities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are more ways to achieve victory points and &quot;steal&quot; victory points, which enables more strategies and games often end quite close.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, there are just many more possibilities which makes gameplay much more unique from each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can highly recommend that you try it. I have a hard time playing the original version, with this expansion available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T20:00:09.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:18:25.280" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best advice I can offer is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;don't buy a city unless you can fire it up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially important in the early game, when turn order hinges on a single city. If you do, then all you are doing is sacrificing turn order. Even if it makes no difference because you have the highest value plant, it may make a difference next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When bartering for a power plant, consider a few things&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much will you save in terms of raw materials by having this plant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even if you are the only person buying garbage, coal, oil etc, how long is that really likely to last&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how much is it worth to your opponents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to think as long term as you can with all of your decisions. If you base your decisions on the current status, it will change within a round or two and your decision may quickly look unwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green powerplants&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely have found these to be worth it. At cost price they can be, but often they are a hindrance and quickly replaced anyway. It of course depends on how much other resources are costing, but do not overbid as it will cost you in the long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T20:18:25.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="608" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:31:40.860" Score="16" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember playing a game with my parents when I was a kid (in the mid 1990s) where you played either as the crew on a ship being invaded by multiplying aliens or as the aliens themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board was a series of rooms on the ship with the crew-members and weapons strewn all over the place. The part I remember most was that weapons had a random effect (picked from a pile), so you never knew if they would damage the aliens or cause them to multiply until you used one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the crew was to escape the ship, and obviously for the aliens it was to kill the crew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the game I'm talking about, or have I got my games mixed up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2014-01-25T06:38:03.047" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T06:38:03.047" Title="What is this game with multiplying aliens and random weapons?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="607" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:39:34.380" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/awfulgreen/&quot;&gt;The Awful Green Things From Outer Space&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/&quot;&gt;Steve Jackson Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="121" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T20:39:34.380" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:40:45.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17967/origins-of-world-war-i&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Origins of World War I&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played this as described in Sid Sackson's Gamut of Games.  I think it might be less negotiation than you're looking for, but one of the key mechanics is forming an alliance before the end of the game. You basically have to balance whether you think you are better off ganging up with another player to tackle the current leader. Apparently, there's a print-and-play version you can download from Board Game Geek, and there was a published version called Origins of World War II.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T20:40:45.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:44:34.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logicmazes.com/games/switch.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Switch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; published as High Hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is very light. Build poker hands from a tableau of cards, but there is an alliance/partnership mechanic in it. It was designed by Robert Abbott, known for inventing Eleusis and Epaminondas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T20:44:34.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="767" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:47:36.923" Score="6" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Engine Room is used during Roslin's turn, would either Crisis Card she chooses automatically have a jump icon, or just the first one drawn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T20:23:10.423" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T15:26:57.300" Title="How does Engine Room work with Roslin’s Religious Visions ability?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="939" CreationDate="2010-10-22T20:51:23.063" Score="5" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a Cylon leader is infiltrating and still on New Caprica when Galactica jumps away, do they count as a &quot;human character left on New Caprica&quot;, thus triggering their execution? This could be relevant for the agenda cards: Join the Colonials and Show Their True Nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T20:23:29.923" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:20:59.993" Title="What happens to Infiltrating Cylons on New Caprica when Galactica jumps away?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-22T21:13:04.960" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/prod/houseonthehill&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill&lt;/a&gt;, someone becomes a traitor part of the way through the game. The traitor gets a secret agenda, but the group of remaining players gets a related counter agenda. Each side is unaware of what the other side is trying to accomplish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T20:08:47.993" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T20:08:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2010-10-22T22:22:24.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chucksmith.de/dominion-minion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Minion&lt;/a&gt; (iOS Only)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to iDominion - was the first Dominion related app on the App Store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enable/Disable Expansions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blacklist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change ordering - cost, alphabetical, by set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can only show Alchemy cards if at least 3-5 Alchemy cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="65" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-22T22:22:24.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-22T23:39:39.423" Score="11" ViewCount="9522" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the chances of any particular player being able to go out in the first round of rummy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For two players the hand size is 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For all other numbers the hand size is 5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going out requires a that a card is drawn, and that all but one card is played, and the last card is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T00:59:18.917" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T15:20:37.183" Title="What are the chances of going out on the first hand in Rummy?" Tags="|probability|rummy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="618" CreationDate="2010-10-22T23:40:35.977" Score="13" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Chess what is the Queens or Kings Indian, and why might it be useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-05T16:25:08.717" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T13:56:05.757" Title="In Chess what is the Queens or Kings Indian?" Tags="|chess|terminology|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="628" CreationDate="2010-10-23T00:21:40.163" Score="17" ViewCount="1711" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Rico_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WL1Ah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Puerto Rico&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one thing that bugs me a little bit in my (5 player) games is how stable the first round is, with regards to role choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It (almost) always goes:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Builder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mayor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Craftsman&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Captain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rationale is pretty straightforward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quarry will be manned by round 2*, since Mayor will almost certain be chosen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guaranteed to have highest purchasing power, and all buildings are available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guaranteed to have an unmanned building (with a chance of a first round indigo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Practically guaranteed to have a manned corn, and no other player can produce 2 goods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No-one can ship for more than 2 victory points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every now and then we'll get &lt;em&gt;crazy&lt;/em&gt; and swap the order on Builder and Settler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;are there any significantly different first round role orders that are just as viable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*Which is great efficiency for a quarry.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T15:41:56.407" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:04:58.480" Title="Viable, alternative, first round role orders in 5-player Puerto Rico" Tags="|puerto-rico|turn-order|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="616" CreationDate="2010-10-23T00:26:44.117" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a high level, an &quot;Indian&quot; in &lt;strong&gt;Chess&lt;/strong&gt; is just advancing the pawn which is in front of a knight by one square.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King or Queen indicates which side the advanced pawn is on.  This move will usually be followed by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fianchetto&quot;&gt;fianchetto&lt;/a&gt; of the bishop nearest the pawn.  This puts the bishop in front of the knight and allows him to control one of the long diagonals on the board from a safe location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two common openings using this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;King's Indian Attack&lt;/strong&gt;, usually done in response to the French defense.  A famous &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1044267&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt; is from 1967.  Bobby Fisher against Lhamsuren Myagmarsuren.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Queen's Indian Defense&lt;/strong&gt; starts like this 1.d4 Nf6 2.c4 e6 3.Nf3 b6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T00:26:44.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="624" CreationDate="2010-10-23T03:32:20.587" Score="28" ViewCount="59263" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some good general guidelines for strategies when playing Agricola? I know it will depend on the exact games, but are there any typical dos and/do nots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T02:00:50.967" Title="Good General Strategies for Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-02-27T23:25:11.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="621" CreationDate="2010-10-23T03:33:22.630" Score="14" ViewCount="13388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any online (or iPhone, iPad, PC, Xbox, PS2, or PS3 for that matter!) versions of Agricola - or know if any are in the works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-06T17:04:38.097" LastActivityDate="2021-07-28T09:56:45.747" Title="Agricola Online" Tags="|agricola|online|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2010-10-23T03:37:39.250" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/&quot;&gt;play-agricola.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 playable boards, images directly from the game.  All expansions, and the site owners appear to have a hot line to the designer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T03:37:39.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2010-10-23T04:06:07.603" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the available actions change based on the number of players, I'll say up front that this advice is primarily for the 4p game.  Also, these are general guidelines.  There are exceptions for everything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't play too many occupations!  No more than 3 before the first harvest.  2 is probably better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reed/Stone/Food is the best square in the game.  Stone is very scarce, reed isn't common.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to be the first person to build, and to get Family Growth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4p has more food available than 3p and 5p.  It is OK to take a few chances with food in 4p&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't fence before the first harvest.  Ideally you want to play 2 fence actions in the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do your best to take advantage of everything your cards allow.  Try to get an improvement after Family Growth, Renovation and getting starting player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good Major improvements to shoot for are the Well and the first Fireplace.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When in doubt buy a major, they are good VPs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to any cards that award bonuses at the end of the game.  Make sure you get yours, and try to steal an opponents if possible (Reeve, Church Warden, House Steward)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work towards a food engine that noone else is using&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't overvalue renovating.  If you have to spend 3 actions to gather materials and another to renovate, it isn't worth it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T04:06:07.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2010-10-23T04:59:58.390" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/619/good-general-strategies-for-agricola/622#622&quot;&gt;Pat Ludwig&lt;/a&gt; has mentioned some good ideas. In my opinion, the four most important things are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Decide and work towards your food strategy early.&lt;/em&gt; You need a solid plan to get food. This is the foundation that gives you the breathing space to do everything else. The first couple of turns feel relaxed, because it's ages before the first harvest. Don't let that fool you! Time constricts sharply in later turns, and what you do here can make or break your later game. Getting something planted by first harvest is usually a good idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't obsess over Occupations.&lt;/em&gt; Most of them will theoretically help you. However you probably can't easily play more than 3 without impacting other areas. Come up with a straightforward plan (also considering your Minors), and then prioritise ruthlessly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Have a baby as soon as possible.&lt;/em&gt; Extra family members are the key to getting lots done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Be flexible.&lt;/em&gt; The best strategy depends heavily on what the other players decide to do. If everyone else is grabbing animals, prioritise farming. If lots of wood is available, consider a building spree. Sometimes the Occupation square is occupied for long enough to render your plan worthless. Move on. Most people have a preferred play style. But the key to winning is to realise that you often won't be able to play the game according to your desires.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T04:59:58.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-23T05:25:44.780" Score="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the people you're playing with and the tone of the game you're in. I play with two groups: my family (wife and two teenage boys); and a group of long-time friends. I think this tactic has been used in both groups, and everybody acts shocked but takes it in the spirit of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a good rule of thumb is 'will this change how they play the game with me in the future (this game and future games)?' or 'will this affect &lt;em&gt;whether&lt;/em&gt; they play the game with me in the future?' If it makes them more wary of you, and more cut-throat themselves, then that's fair enough - you've made a tactical decision, upped the ante a bit, and maybe made it more difficult to get information and trades from them. If it makes them less likely to want to play with you in the future, then you've overstepped the mark - don't do it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T05:25:44.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-10-23T05:43:14.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just from looking at the rules and cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Engine Room specifically refers to the next card &lt;strong&gt;drawn&lt;/strong&gt;, not played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus Roslin choose between two cards, but the first one drawn would now have a jump icon on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find an errata/ruling about that particular interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T05:43:14.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="617" CreationDate="2010-10-23T06:19:44.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt there's a significantly different first round order.  Certainly at the beginning there are very few options that are of use.  We often see a prospector in fourth and fifth, the rational being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the fourth player produces then the fifth player may take prospector (or trader in the unlikely event they managed to get a small market).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player on corn wants to save up for a more profitable good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short the five player first round sequences that we tend to see are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Settler/Builder], [Builder/Settler], Mayor, [Craftsman/Prospector], [Captain/Craftsman/Prospector/Trader].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T06:19:44.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="603" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:03:38.963" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often describe Cities and Knights as &quot;the version of Catan where every limitation has a way around it.&quot; You can only hold seven cards… unless you build these walls. You only get cards when your numbers roll… unless you have an aqueduct. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cities and Knights takes Catan and adds a layer of interesting shortcuts, passthroughs, special cases and escape hatches on top. There's slightly more to learn, but it's still a simple game. But the increase in complexity is outweighed by the vast increase in interesting mechanics between players and events in the gameworld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="163" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T07:03:38.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:11:26.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot imagine why you ask this. But anyways, with the rules you just put it's easy to calculate. (Though I have not played with the last card discarded rule.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can win from the start with either Three+Straight or 7 Straight or Three+Poker. Now we just add the probabilities. Assuming you play with 4 jokers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypergeometric_distribution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hypergeometric distribution&lt;/a&gt; you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 1,420'494,075 hands... in combinatoric that's C(56, 8). You can take 8 from 56 cards no matter in what order you take them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One Set (three of a kind) and a Poker requires (C(4, 3) * C(4, 4) * C(4, 0)^12)/C(56, 7). However we have to consider jokers. In the case of 1 in the set, 2, 3, the full set is wildcards, 1 in the poker, 2, 3, the full poker is wild card, plus combinations, 1 and 1, 1, and 2, 2 and 1, 2 and 2, 3 and 1, 1 and 3. We add all of these scenarios. We should avoid counting twice any scenario...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple (or 0 jokers in set, 0 in poker): (C(4, 3) * C(4, 4) * C(4, 0)^12) / C(56, 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1, 0: (C(4, 2) * C(4, 4) * C(4, 0)^11 * C(4, 1)) / C(56, 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2, 0: (C(4, 1) * C(4, 4) * C(4, 0)^11 * C(4, 2)) / C(56, 8) --Ignorable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3, 0: (C(4, 3) * C(4, 4) * C(4, 0)^12) / C(56, 8) --Ignorable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3, 1: (C(4, 3) * C(4, 3) * C(4, 0)^11 * C(4, 1)) / C(56, 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3, 2: Not possible, only 4 jokers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2, 2: (C(4, 1) * C(4, 2) * C(4, 0)^11 * C(4, 4)) / C(56, 8) --Ignorable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1, 3: (C(4, 2) * C(4, 1) * C(4, 0)^11 * C(4, 4)) / C(56, 8) --Ignorable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0, 4: (C(4, 3) * C(4, 4) * C(4, 0)^12) / C(56, 8) --Ignorable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that #4 &amp;amp; #9 are the same as #1. So we can ignore them and count #1 thrice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#2, #3, #7, #8 are the same in different order; let's ignore but #2 and count it 4 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C(N, 0) is equal to 1. There's only one way to not take things from N available, right? Same with C(N, N)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 * C(4, 3) / C(56, 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 * (C(4, 2) * C(4, 1)) / C(56, 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(C(4, 3)^2 * C(4, 1)) / C(56, 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C(4,3) = C(4, 1) = 4. Taking one or not taking one out of 4 has 4 variants.&#xA;That's 3*4 + 4*6*4 + 4^3 = 4*(3+24+16) = 4*(3+40) = 172.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There you have it to win with a Set and a Poker you 172 hands out of C(56,8)... 1.2108463036003863655679098837494271139427315105133402... × 10^-7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 7 Straight flush the calculation is the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first card is unimportant. However the second one, there's only one that works. And so on. That's (D equals the number of cards in the deck and N the number of cards in the straight):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 * 1/(D-1) * 1/(D-2) * ... * 1/(D-[N-1])&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However that is only true if the straight had to show up exactly in the order. So we have to multiply times all the ways those N cards could be ordered. That's N!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;N! * 1 * 1/(D-1) * 1/(D-2) * ... * 1/(D-[N-1])&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play a bit with the factors you can get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;D * N/D * (N-1)/(D-1) * (N-2)/(D-2) * ... * 1/(D-[N-1])&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;D * 1/D * 2/(D-1) * 3/(D-2) * ... * N/(D-[N-1])&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway that's, ignoring the jokers for now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;52 * 1/52 * 2/51 * 3/50 * 4/49 * 5/48 * 6/47 * 7/46&#xA;1/2572780&#xA;3.8868461353088876623729973025287820956319623131398720... × 10^-7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to figure a good model for straight flushes with wildcards. But I'm guessing the final answer will be about 1 in a million.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will edit this as soon as I get more info...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="17" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T06:28:16.483" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T06:28:16.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="958" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:29:33.170" Score="18" ViewCount="10003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Mahjong with friends every now and then, using a set of rules that we sort of invented along the way: we knew the basics, but had no internet connection for one summer and played with what made the most sense. Now, we'd like to settle on established rules, but there are so many of them... I'd like to have rules that are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stable (no changing every year like American Mahjong)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uses a 14-tiles hand, 4 winds, 3 dragons, flowers and seasons, no jokers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scoring doesn't have to be zero-sum operation (we don't play money)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="2995" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T05:27:57.187" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T22:49:56.777" Title="What Mahjong set of rules can be recommended to beginners?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:33:09.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've worked out an approximation based on a seven card hand with a standard deck.  I leave it as an exercise to do the same calculations for a five card hand :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are four ways of winning the hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 of a kind and 3 of a kind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 of a kind and 3 straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 of a kind and 4 straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 straight and 3 straight (this includes a 7 straight hand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my approximation I have overcounted the number of winning hands by assuming the 8th card could be any card.  This makes calculations a lot easier, but counts some hands more than once (e.g. two 4 of a kinds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 of a kind, 3 of a kind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 13 4oKs, and then 48 3oKs for each 4oK.  The remaining card is one of 45 left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total = 13*48*45 = 28080&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 of a kind, 3 straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 13 4oKs and then at least 32 straights for each 4oK (some have more).  Counting them all gives 440 posibilities.  The remaining card is one of 45 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total = 440*45 = 19800&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 of a kind, 4 straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each 3oK there is an untouched suit with 10 straights in it.  The other three suits have different numbers of straights depending on the rank of the 3oK.  Counting them gives 769, and the last card is again one of 45.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total = 769*45 = 34605&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 straight, 3 straight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the straights are in different suits then there are 1320 combinations.  If they are in the same suit then there are 184 combinations.  The last card is again one of 45 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Total = (1320+184)*45 = 67680&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 52C8 possible hands which works out as 752,538,150 possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So finally a slight overestimate on the probability is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(28080+19800+34605+67680)/752,538,150 ~ 1/5,000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2019-06-11T15:20:37.183" LastActivityDate="2019-06-11T15:20:37.183" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="654" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:42:18.710" Score="38" ViewCount="10058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many games have a rectangular grid, some even use hexagonal but it's quite rare to see triangles. I have heard the argument that hexagons confuse players. Is that true? Is there any evidence to suggest it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My inner game designer thinks that hexagonal games have more choices. So a casual player might be paralyzed by so many options compared with what he &quot;knows as normal&quot;. So a 'hardcore' player will love it, again for the extra choices. If that's true, and not just a rationalization I made up, then will a triangular board feel constricted to both demographics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that line of reasoning sound? Is there something I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T21:17:27.870" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T11:36:47.490" Title="Why are there fewer board games with a triangular grid?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-10-23T07:57:14.533" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Humans tend to think on the rectangular grid. We've built our cities on the rectangular grid, and the primary coordinate system is on the rectangular grid. As a result, people don't know how to work with other systems very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T07:57:14.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-23T09:53:04.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/122/quo-vadis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;b&gt;Quo Vadis?&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players seek to move their policians through a set of committees and eventually to sit on the Roman Senate.  To move politicians forward from each committee to the next requires a majority of members in the committee to approve it.  Players make deals with each other in a &quot;I'll vote for you here if you vote for me there&quot; kind of way.  The points are scored by collecting chips along the way to the senate, and the winner is the player with the most points when the senate is filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played the game for quite a while now, and don't own it, but I'm going to be looking out for a copy now I've remembered it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an 'at a glance' overview of several Board Game Geek reviews:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/344583/what-you-need-to-know-and-what-people-think-about&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/344583/what-you-need-to-know-and-what-people-think-about&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T09:53:04.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="687" CreationDate="2010-10-23T10:11:11.863" Score="19" ViewCount="89279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for examples of good social games, the kind that can be played at parties where rather than using stuff like dice most of the play is done through social interaction &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example of the sort of thing I mean is &quot;Werewolves&quot; or &quot;Villagers and Werewolves&quot;. In that game everyone assumes the roles within a village with some people being the werewolves. There are a number of rounds in which the group try to reason among themselves about who the werewolves are, the interest of course supplied by the fact that the werewolves are present trying to hijack the discussion. The game made excellent by of the nuances introduced by the roles and the restrained cooperative aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know anything similar or a place where I can find games like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2010-10-24T19:04:04.970" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T02:43:31.920" Title="Anyone know more 'social' games like 'Werewolves&quot;" Tags="|recommendations|party|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:18:38.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-23T10:46:46.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/patience/spit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;'Split' or 'Speed'&quot;&gt;&quot;Split&quot; or &quot;Speed&quot;&lt;/a&gt; scales very well with slight modifications. Be creative about the arrangement of the shared cards and add more decks of cards and players to your hearts content. The only limiting factor is arranging the shared cards such that everyone can reach them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T09:02:43.557" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T09:02:43.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-10-23T12:15:11.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you may be interested in Pervasive games.  If so the best place I know of is the Ludocity wiki page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ludocity.org/wiki/Main_Page&quot;&gt;http://ludocity.org/wiki/Main_Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these are street games, but many can be played in a single room with a relatively low number of players.  As well as rules and printable resources, many of the games feature detailed game session reports giving advise on how to get the most out of each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T12:15:11.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="648" CreationDate="2010-10-23T12:50:36.447" Score="21" ViewCount="4825" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems likely that I may be involved in a game of Monopoly soon.  I'm not a big fan of Monopoly for a number of reasons, one of which is that part way through the game someone will reveal that they assumed we were playing with a house rule that no one else has heard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the most straightforward way to deal with this is to collectively read through the rule book before the start of the game.  In practice this is going to be very unpopular, and will add a significant amount of time to an already long game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What house rules have you encountered and what set makes for a better more well rounded game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T14:24:24.010" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T19:52:55.177" Title="Clarifying house rules for Monopoly" Tags="|house-rules|monopoly|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2010-10-23T13:08:44.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand your complaint -- you don't want to read the rules before playing a game?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about time spent reading the rules, everyone can download the rules from Hasbro &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/DeluxeMonopoly.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and read it any time before coming over and playing (the rules say &quot;Deluxe Edition&quot;, but there's no difference in the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We really can't tell you what house rules you should play with; before playing, simply ask everyone if there are any house rules they want to play with, and agree on those.  If someone forgets to bring something up, or assumed it was a rule, that's too bad.  Whoever is hosting should have final say, hence the term &quot;house&quot; rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only house rule I have ever seen is putting money paid for Community, Chance or Luxury Taxes put into the middle of the board, and whoever lands on Free Parking gets it.  I'm not really a fan of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T13:08:44.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="644" CreationDate="2010-10-23T13:20:18.370" Score="22" ViewCount="108591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played scrabble with different groups of people and their rules on first turns vary a lot.  The rules I've seen used are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double score for first turn (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabblepages.com/scrabble/rules/&quot;&gt;Scrabble rules&lt;/a&gt; confirms this and is the first thing a scrabble player learns)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The word's middle letters have to be dead-center. (&quot;JUG&quot;'s &quot;U&quot; must be in the middle of the board)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can only play a word horizontally. (Never seen this in writing but noticed that I haven't seen anyone play vertically either.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these are official?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-11-09T14:56:17.780" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T00:02:51.610" Title="Which of these rules for a Scrabble first turn play are official?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2010-10-23T13:27:00.727" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you said, the center tile counts as a &lt;em&gt;Double Word Score&lt;/em&gt; tile, so whoever plays first gets double the points.  That is an official rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second and third rules mentioned are house rules, and are not supported in the Scrabble rules.  The second rule would prevent you from hitting one of the adjacent &lt;em&gt;Double Letter Score&lt;/em&gt; spaces, as even a 7 letter word wouldn't be long enough to reach it, since they are 5 spaces away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabble-assoc.com/rules/nsa-rules-200906.html#_Toc218751165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;most recent Scrabble Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; clearly indicate that the first word played must simply cover the center tile, and be spelled top-to-bottom or left-to-right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="24460" LastEditDate="2018-07-09T00:02:51.610" LastActivityDate="2018-07-09T00:02:51.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-10-23T14:43:12.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apples_to_Apples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt; is a great party game, and able to handle large crowds.  When I play with my friends, they're very vocal and do a lot of lobbying for the cards as they come up.  We also get some really good laughs out of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fun in Apples to Apples is in the totally random cards people play.  This is a game that encourages people to talk and socialize as a group.  Each round a new player is the judge, and the judge chooses a green card at random.  Let's say &quot;Disturbing&quot; is the green card for this example.  Then all the other players will submit one red card to see which is the most disturbing card.  Some of the cards are going to be a close match, and others won't be.  From a set or cards like &quot;Whoopi Goldberg&quot;, &quot;Chain Saws&quot;, and &quot;The Midwest&quot;, one card has to be chosen as the winner.  It is this random, bizarre combination of cards that provides the laughs and enjoyment of playing apples to apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no right or wrong answers in Apples to Apples.  When I play with my friends, we usually comment and lobby for cards as they're read out loud.  The judge for a round is always the final arbiter though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt;  I by no means consider Whoopi Goldberg to be disturbing.  Although I did once win a game of Apples to Apples because she was Fuzzier then all the other cards submitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T03:50:08.423" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T03:50:08.423" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2010-10-23T14:58:04.590" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the free parking rule mentioned by LittleBobbyTables is quite common, there are a lot of other house rules people use in Monopoly.  I know we never used the auction rule when we've played Monopoly, and that keeps property available much longer, since when someone lands on a parcel, it isn't necessarily sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopoly_%28game%29#House_rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia has a great list of house rules people use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Monopoly/House_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;More house rules you can use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a shorter game, try out some of the rules that help shorten the game.  My second link has a the original rules for a short game that can help alleviate some of the boredom of longer Monopoly games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2022-10-05T19:52:55.177" LastActivityDate="2022-10-05T19:52:55.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-10-23T15:16:19.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this isn't too long and rambling, but I'm writing this kind of &quot;stream of consciousness&quot; style...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triangular pieces would have lower surface area touching the board, which would make them somewhat more unstable unless they were shorter in height.  I.e. easier to knock over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shorter pieces may be more difficult to manipulate, since you have fewer free sides.  Think of a Scrabble board - you can extract almost any piece without significantly affecting the pieces around it.  This could be mitigated by providing a nub or grip sticking up from the piece to be grasped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As McKay mentioned, we tend to think in squares.  Up, down, left and right are simple to grasp.  How do you describe directions or positions on a triangular board?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perhaps not as big of an issue, but manufacturing - particularly at the prototype level - would require additional expertise.  Just about anybody can easily cut square pieces, but equilateral triangles would require more effort to make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games played on a hexagonal board are typically because of the increased freedom of movement.  Triangles would actually constrain movement even more tightly than squares.  So a triangular board may work best for &quot;tile&quot;-like games that don't require much movement of pieces once they are placed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens when you bump the board?  On a square (or hexagonal) board, there are always two faces parallel to one another, so the pieces will slide in a straight line.  Triangular pieces will push their way to one side or the other from the axis of movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T15:16:19.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2010-10-23T15:17:25.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever we played, we used the following house rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No auctions.  You have to land on a property to buy it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free parking jackpot.  Any taxes, payments from chance or community chest, or payments to get out of jail get put in the middle of the board.  Anyone who lands on free parking gets it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the way I played it with everyone growing up.  I also played it once or twice with some people who played the same way, but added in the &quot;landing on GO gives you 2x the money&quot; rule.  That didn't change the balance of the game too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should make sure to bring up these rules, and others, and make sure that all house rules have been discussed before you begin.  If someone brings up a house rule halfway through the game, it's unfair, and shouldn't be allowed.  Everyone should know the rules of the game before you start, and it's the homeowner or game owner's responsibility to know exactly which house rules are being used and fill everyone in before the game starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="158" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T15:17:25.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="653" CreationDate="2010-10-23T16:48:37.703" Score="8" ViewCount="3614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried playing two-player Settlers, where each player controls one set of pieces, and each time a player builds they need to play a piece of the same type for one of the two uncontrolled colors (so there are two non-player nations in play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to add to this is for the uncontrolled nations to have resource cards and some mechanic for them to allow trading with the players in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any two-player rules that support this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T16:52:28.027" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:33:27.293" Title="Are there good two player rules for resource trading in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|trading|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2010-10-23T17:01:05.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I've never tried it out, there is a variant set of rules &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techfeed.net/2PlayerSettlers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that uses the white player as a neutral third party.  It looks a little interesting, but the rules in the link only allow the neutral player to build roads, and nothing else.  Building roads for the neutral player is determined by highest dice roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; allow for trading with the neutral player using a special trading chart.  The chart may or may not need to be tweaked to your liking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T18:33:30.903" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T18:33:30.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-10-23T17:34:57.330" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hexagonal grid and a triangular grid are duals of each other; that is, if you put a dot in the center of each hexagon, and connect them to each adjacent one, then you get a triangular grid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FloqG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hexagonal grid and its triangular dual&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, playing on the vertices of a triangular grid is equivalent to playing in the spaces on a hexagonal grid, and likewise playing on the vertices of a hexagonal grid is equivalent to playing in the spaces on a triangular grid. An example of this is the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hex_(board_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hex&lt;/a&gt;, so named because of the hexagonal grid it is played on; however, you can also play it on a triangular grid by playing it like Go, on the vertices instead of the spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pPba9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hex board&quot; /&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7FhEG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hex played on a triangular board&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the big difference between playing (in the spaces) on a hexagonal grid and a triangular grid is that in a hexagonal grid, each space is connected to six spaces around it; in a triangular grid, each space is connected to only three. This can significantly limit the number of options, if for instance you are only allowed to move to adjacent spaces, or only are allowed to make connections to adjacent spaces. A square grid gives you four connections, or eight if you can move or connect diagonally. A hexagonal grid gives you six. In many game designs, only have three moves or connections available is likely to be fairly limiting, though it may be possible to do something interesting with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are games played with triangular grids. One example that comes to mind is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21550/blokus-trigon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blokus Trigon&lt;/a&gt;. This is an interesting case, as each piece consists of triangles joined by their edges, but you join your pieces together by their corners, with the restriction that each piece must touch another of the same color on a corner but not on an edge. In the traditional square version of Blokus, this means that only two of the pieces which touch at a given intersection may be the same color; while in the triangular version, you have 6 spaces around each intersection, and thus can fit three pieces of the same color in. In this way, it manages to take advantage of both the triangular and hexagonal properties of the triangular grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jjCmt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blokus Trigon&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example of using triangular and hexagonal boards is attempting to play Go on both. Xah Lee has some &lt;a href=&quot;http://xahlee.info/math/go_board_variations.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;notes on how that works&lt;/a&gt;. As Go is played on the intersections, not in the spaces, each piece connects to only three others on the hexagonal board, and thus each piece has only three liberties, while on the triangular board, each space connects to six others. In the hexagonal version, only three spaces means that each piece is very vulnerable to capture; the game is very unstable. In the triangular version, each piece has lots of liberties, and is quite hard to capture. It sounds like for Go, 4 connections really is the ideal balance for just enough risk to have good tactical battles, while enough stability to be able to form live groups and be able to think more about strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, triangular grids are used occasionally, but I believe that in many cases they provide too few options or connections to provide interesting strategic play. However, if you're interested in designing games, perhaps you should take that as a design challenge; try to design a game that takes good advantages of the limited number of options a triangular grid gives you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Image credits&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4005042/language-or-package-for-drawing-geometric-diagrams/4006563#4006563&quot;&gt;Dual of hexagonal grid&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/users/237428/antal-spector-zabusky&quot;&gt;Antal Spector-Zabusky&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/&quot;&gt;StackOverflow&lt;/a&gt;. Licensed under &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike 2.5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Hex_board_11x11.svg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hex board&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Special:Contributions/Tiltec&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tiltec&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://commons.wikimedia.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikimedia Commons&lt;/a&gt;. Released into the public domain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hexwiki.org/index.php?title=Image:Hexposition02.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go-style hex board&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hexwiki.org/index.php?title=Special:Contributions/Twixter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twixter&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hexwiki.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;HexWiki&lt;/a&gt;. Licensed under &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creative Commons Attribution Share-Alike 3.0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/761381/blokus-trigon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blokus Trigon&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/gangster1930&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gangster 1930&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;. Licensed under &lt;a href=&quot;http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial Share-Alike 3.0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="421" LastEditDate="2022-06-02T11:36:47.490" LastActivityDate="2022-06-02T11:36:47.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2010-10-23T17:49:22.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a two player option &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/140910/two-player-rules-for-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;developed Nick Barko where players can only trade with the bank and played on a smaller board&lt;/a&gt;.  You remove 2 roads, 1 settlement and 1 city from each player.  You also reduce the size the development card deck by removing a few cards.  There are six ports on the map in this variant, encouraging players to build ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trading in Catan helps both players involved in a deal get the resources they need.  Players who refuse to trade with the other players on the board often don't do as well I've noticed.  Thus, each deal two players work out, can bring them closer to victory over the other players.  With just two players, this effect is lost since they only have each other to trade with.  If you use a proxy player, it's doesn't really act as a party with it's own self interest since it's controlled by the two other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T17:49:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="657" CreationDate="2010-10-23T18:34:19.030" Score="2" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spear of Longinus text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you're a Hunter and your attack is successful, you may reveal your identity. If you do, or if you are already revealed, you give 2 points of extra damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a revealed, non-Hunter has the spear do they inflict the extra damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the intent of the card was probably to only benefit Hunters, but it could be read as any revealed character using the spear gives the extra damage. But, only Hunters would get the ability to reveal their identity on a successful attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T20:22:38.660" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T20:22:38.660" Title="In Shadow Hunters, can only Hunters benefit from the Spear of Longinus?" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="656" CreationDate="2010-10-23T18:42:43.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I read it, &quot;If you're a Hunter&quot; applies to the entire rules paragraph.  Therefore, you could re-read it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you're a Hunter and your attack is successful, you may reveal your identity.  If you're a Hunter and you do, or if you are already revealed, you give 2 points of extra damage.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could certainly see the argument, though, that two sentences are two completely separate, and so that any revealed non-Hunter could do 2 points of extra damage as well.  I believe the intent is for Hunters only, but it isn't very clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T19:46:33.160" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T19:46:33.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="659" CreationDate="2010-10-23T18:43:23.287" Score="4" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Bob attacks a character equipped with the Holy Robe and rolls a 2 for damage, can Bob's special ability be immediately triggered? Or, does the Holy Robe reduce the damage Bob would inflict before Bob can choose to activate his special ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob's special ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you inflict 2 or more damage to a character, you may take an Equipment card of your choice from that character instead of giving them damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holy Robe's ext:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your attacks do 1 less damage and the amount of damage you receive from attacks is reduced by 1 point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T14:11:30.463" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T14:11:30.463" Title="In Shadow Hunters, can Bob’s special ability be triggered before damage is reduced?" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="658" CreationDate="2010-10-23T18:52:47.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no, Bob's special ability does not trigger.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob's ability requires you to inflict 2 or more damage, and while you may &lt;em&gt;roll&lt;/em&gt; 2 damage, you only &lt;em&gt;inflict&lt;/em&gt; 1 point of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T18:52:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-23T19:12:59.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is based on a novel and has a bunch of expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it is that much simpler though. It has more other mechanics than diplomacy, but the supporting and backstabbing part is a bit simpler. I've played it once now and it was quite fun. It 'only' took a few hours, even though it was the first time. Also the fact that not everything is executed in parallel makes it a bit easier to understand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the fundamental part where you promise to your ally to do certain things and then it later turned out you did the exact opposite is still very much there. E.g. you agree to support someone's attack, put a command counter on a province and later it turns out that you didn't support him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T19:12:59.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="673" CreationDate="2010-10-23T20:13:07.763" Score="6" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy very much playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarto_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quatro&lt;/a&gt;, as I find that the small board, small set of pieces and symmetry. However, I am at loss in playing the beginning of the game anyway other than randomly. Because the pieces placed are neither yours nor the opponent's, thinking in terms of &quot;occupying the central ground&quot; make no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any strategies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T16:51:05.010" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T16:51:05.010" Title="What different opening strategy exist when playing Quatro?" Tags="|openings|quatro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="211" CreationDate="2010-10-23T20:24:58.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excellent question: I play it a lot, often with the same people (my wife, family, friends). It's one of the few games for two that I really enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, maybe we haven't fully explored the possible strategies, but we find that the game is quite biased in favour of the Inspector. Other people who have played with us seem to agree. Also, I discovered while browsing the web that there are extensions (referred to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/514359/i-love-it-but-its-just-not-the-same-&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for example) that make the game more balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note, while Jack sometimes win, I have only once seen him win by escaping (and that was because of a terrible mistake made by the Inspector). All the other times I've seen Jack win, it was by reaching the last turn, or by the inspector accusing someone at random because time was short anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T20:24:58.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-23T21:48:07.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=18&amp;amp;enmi=Battlestar%20Galactica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/a&gt; with the Pegasus expansion supports 3-7 players, and works well anywhere in that range. This is one of my all-time favorite games. It's a cooperative game using a traitor mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-23T22:04:57.473" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T22:04:57.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-23T21:57:44.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warfroggames.com/struggle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Struggle of Empires&lt;/a&gt; is a good game that supports 2-7, though I think you need at least 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-10-23T21:57:44.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-23T22:01:40.340" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citadels_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt; (the later editions, or first edition plus expansions) supports 2-8. Once people get the hang of it, it goes pretty quickly. An 8-player game typically takes around an hour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-24T14:37:01.417" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T14:37:01.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="672" CreationDate="2010-10-23T22:30:39.480" Score="4" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for the Royal Supplier state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The owner of an occupied Royal Supplier can supply the Royal Warehouse (the supply) with a number of goods from his windrose equal to the number of nobles on his island and take 1 VP for each.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  NOTE:  Such supplied goods must all be of different kinds (no duplicates).  Regardless of other buildings or abilities, the player may gain no additional bonuses from supplying these goods to the royal warehouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, we've got two things going on here - &quot;goods equal to the number of nobles on his island&quot; and &quot;must all be of different kinds&quot;.  Assuming that &quot;island&quot; means game board (as answered &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/229/clarification-on-the-royal-garden-from-puerto-rico-expansion-2&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), how do you resolve this if you have more nobles than distinct goods?  And do you have to send all or nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1: I have 6 nobles on my island.  There are 2 corn, 1 indigo, 2 sugar, 3 tobacco and 1 coffee on my windrose.  I clearly can't supply 6 barrels of goods, because there are only 5 distinct types in the game.  Do I send 5 distinct barrels to the royal supply in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2: I have 2 nobles on my island,  There are 2 corn, 1 indigo and 1 sugar on my windrose.  If I choose to use the Royal Supplier, can I only ship 1 good to the royal supply, or do I have to supply 2 distinct barrels, since I have 2 nobles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T21:28:45.250" Title="Royal Supplier in Puerto Rico Expansion II -- is it all or nothing?" Tags="|puerto-rico|puerto-rico-expansion-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="680" CreationDate="2010-10-23T23:11:52.140" Score="15" ViewCount="8121" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;Play&quot; phase of Cribbage (31's), what is the optimal leading card to play. I have always played a 4 if I had one, because it can't be fifteened and is less likely to result in a run, because an opponent is unlikely to play a 5 or a 6. It is also not as useful as 1s, 2s or 3s at the later part of the Play when it gets close to 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I fear that this tactic is becoming too predictable, and my fellow players will know that my hand lacks a 4 if I have not played it immediately as a Leading card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other cards are optimal leading cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:16:05.013" Title="Optimal Leading Card in Cribbage" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="786" CreationDate="2010-10-23T23:29:07.913" Score="11" ViewCount="3736" Body="&lt;p&gt;During this haunt, the adventures collect clue tokens.  According to the haunts special rules, the clues can be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traded, like any other item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stolen, like any other item&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they 'drop' in an item pile when the character dies, like other items?  The rules seem silent on this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:49:00.210" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:49:00.210" Title="Betrayal at House on the Hill - Scenario 50 - Do the Clue Tokens drop when a character dies?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="669" CreationDate="2010-10-24T05:58:34.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can find no ruling on this, but there's &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; precedent to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first expansion, the Small Wharf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may ship different barrels of&#xA;  goods during one of his turns during&#xA;  the captain phase, but he gets only 1&#xA;  VP for every two barrels he ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further clarifications on that building show that a player can ship &amp;lt; 2 goods*, and need not ship all remaining goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd reason based on precedent (and in the absence of any other errata) that buildings that modify the captain phase allow the player to choose the selection of goods involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1: You can send &lt;strong&gt;up to&lt;/strong&gt; 5 goods (1 of each kind) to the royal treasury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2: Likewise, you may send &lt;strong&gt;up to&lt;/strong&gt; 2 goods, provided they are different, to the royal treasury.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*There's some deviousness to be had in combination with Lighthouse, and effectively trading for 1 doubloon at the end of every Captain.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T05:58:34.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="661" CreationDate="2010-10-24T10:21:26.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know that you're going to do much better than random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, when you are not the first placing player your piece choice doesn't matter.  All the pieces are equivalent (the same number of potential matches will remain after play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are the first placing player, then there are only 2 distinct opening moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing any of the pieces on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &quot;corner*&quot;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &quot;inner&quot; pieces are functionally equivalent to outer corners on the first move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a &quot;wall&quot; but not a &quot;corner&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due the board's symmetry, and the lack of piece ownership, coupled with the equivalence of the piece &quot;types.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these moves deny any potential win condition, clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the first choice that has &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; impact on the outcome of the game can't occur until the second piece choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, the first placing player can choose a piece with 3, 2, 1, or no commonalities with one just placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that by the end of the first placing player's turn, there can be only 8 functionally distinct boards.  Not a lot to choose from in terms of strategy.  In comparison, Chess has 20 at this point and Checkers has 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit less fairly, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20041012023358/http://ssel.vub.ac.be/Members/LucGoossens/quarto/quartotext.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;analysis&lt;/a&gt; suggests that given perfect play the first placing player will always win or force a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*I apologize for the paraphrasing but I haven't actually played this game personally, only read about it.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T10:21:26.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-24T10:47:06.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/254/empires-in-arms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Empires in Arms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be described as Diplomacy-heavy rather than &quot;lite&quot;.  It's a classic monster wargame, but it falls into the multi-player competitive category - most big multi-player wargames are in pre-defined teams (e.g. Axis vs Allies in WWII games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EIA is a pretty good grand-strategic simulation of Napoleonic warfare, with a diplomatic system that has formal declarations of war, alliances and peace treaties.  You'll probably find there's too much wargame there and not enough diplomacy, but it's a classic for a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also incredibly long - you'll do well to finish in a full weekend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T10:47:06.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2010-10-24T10:55:55.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1513/the-republic-of-rome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Republic of Rome&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plays a little quicker than Diplomacy - 4-5 hours which makes it just playable in an evening, rather than needing a full day.  The game mechanics are more complex than diplomacy, but most of them are on cards, so you only have to deal with a fairly modest set at a time.  If you can arrange for your inexperienced players not to be HRAO for the first turn or two, it's easy enough to learn, and reasonably experienced players hardly ever refer to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially if you play the Middle Republic or Late Republic scenario rather than the Early, it's a game all about diplomacy and negotiations between the players as they try to scramble to the top.  Early Republic is more about the players as a team trying to defeat the game-system (aka Carthage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T10:55:55.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:09:57.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 'group' is almost always 2 players, here are some of our favorites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned on the co-op question, my wife and I really enjoy Pandemic. It's quick to setup, quick to play, and co-operative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lnf4l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Munchkin games are also a lot of fun for two players. They're also really quick to set up,  it's not too competitive and the tone of the game makes it a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FClUd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A recent favorite has been Thunderstone, it's a deck building game similar to Dominion (as mentioned in other answers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Etr2D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through the Ages is a great resource management game, especially if you like the Civilization video games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fa4dx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally if you're looking for something a bit more 'hard-core' I'd recommend Arkham Horror. It's tough, and it's brutal but we have a lot of fun with it two-player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2OJ9H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T15:09:57.373" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:35:39.047" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having spent some time trying to work out probabilities and carrying out some research, I have come up with a few conclusions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Almost NEVER lead with a 5 or a 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are 16 cards that value 10 in the pack (30%), so playing a 5 gives a very high probability that the other player will get 2points for 15.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same theory for leading with a 10. Although far fewer 5s are in the pack, these are highly valuable cards and often not sent to the crib. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep back Aces for the end&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They come in very useful for getting 31 for 2, and possible doubles or triples.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;6s, 7s, 8s, 9s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These are strong cards in a hand, so are often quite easy to 15. Leading with a 9 or 6 allows the other player to get a 15 with little worry of a run occurring. 7s and 8s can trick the other player into going for a 15 to gain you a run, but can be followed by another card to make a further run from the other player. This would give the other player 7 points and you 3 points. Not a great return.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deuces and Treys&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2s and 3s are what is left. A 2 is probably useful to hold back for the same reason as the Aces, but 2s and 3s are the safest options for leading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer to vary the leading card (i.e. instead of always playing a 4) is to use a 3, or even possibly a 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T06:25:01.740" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T06:25:01.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="689" CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:39:19.550" Score="112" ViewCount="26763" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group has determined that buying (almost exclusively) money and points is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most kingdom cards are ignored, or are bought very sparingly. This has lead to games feeling 'samey' and has taken a lot of the fun out for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategies should we use to counter &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/big-money/&quot;&gt;Big Money&lt;/a&gt;&quot;?  Or are house rules needed here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:54:38.317" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T03:52:33.653" Title="How can I beat &quot;Big Money&quot; in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:42:02.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no rule about it, so I'd say it's fair play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's a social game so if you keep 'crying wolf' then you might find your game-mates less likely to trade with you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T15:42:02.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-24T15:47:45.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15987/arkham-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt; supports single player play. However, it would probably be more fun to have someone else to co-miserate with!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:24:38.227" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:24:38.227" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2010-10-24T16:23:14.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On occasion, there may be value in playing a card of the same rank as that turned up in the cut, since there's a reduced chance of your opponent being able to pair it. &quot;See one, play one&quot;, was how it was usually described. I wouldn't recommend it for a 5, though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T16:23:14.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="98" CreationDate="2010-10-24T16:29:05.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ICM assumes that each player's chance to win, ability being equal or indeterminable, is proportional to his/her stack size. Chances to come in other positions can be calculated conditionally, allowing an assessment for each player of their equity at any point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reasonably good explanation (with some equations) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokerjunkie.com/icm-explaining-the-independent-chip-model&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and a calculator to play with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icmpoker.com/Calculator.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T16:29:05.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2010-10-24T16:34:25.710" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little surprised that strategy is having so much success. But rather than come up with rule variants, why not simply take advantage of the game's design and choose kingdom cards which hurt that strategy? Try drafting instead of pure randomization. The next time you play try using the Thief, Pirate Ship or Saboteur. If your opponents continue to use the same strategy against those cards, I can almost guarantee you'll win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T13:38:13.543" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T13:38:13.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-10-24T16:52:10.810" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on exactly what type of social interaction you're looking for. There is a very broad category of games known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Party_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;party games&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which loosely meets your definition. Party games tend to favor social interaction over luck and strategy (in many cases, no equipment at all), tend to require less per-player equipment, and tend to be flexible in the number of players they support. Take a look at the linked Wikipedia article for more information, or you can browse the party games &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamecategory/1030/party-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;category&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamesubdomain/5498/party-games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;subdomain&lt;/a&gt; on BoardGameGeek. A somewhat older category, that has considerable overlap with party games, are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parlour_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;parlour games&lt;/a&gt;, so you can look there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the broad category of party games, there are a few subcategories. The one you mention, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafia_%28party_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Werewolf (also known as Mafia)&lt;/a&gt;, is known as an &quot;uninformed majority&quot; game, in which some people have information that the rest of the players are trying to figure out, mostly through social means. There's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/92/games-with-features-like-battlestar-galacticas-traitor-mechanic&quot;&gt;another thread on games with uninformed majority mechanics&lt;/a&gt;, though many of them are more traditional board or card games. Other party games in this category include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Traitor/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Are You the Traitor?&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_to_Host_a_Murder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Host a Murder&lt;/a&gt; series of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other subcategories of party games include word games, creativity games, and icebreakers, with some overlap between them. Word games tend to involve someone having one or more secret words, and giving clues that other people use to guess the word or definition. Creativity games involve being given some sort of creative prompt (a pair of words, a picture, an object), and doing something creative with them, such as telling a story, drawing a picture, inventing a product, or the like. Icebreakers are games in which people reveal facts about themselves, in order to provide a structure to break the ice and allow people to get to know each other better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the word games category are games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_%28word_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Contact&lt;/a&gt;, in which one player has a word, gives the first letter, and players try and discover the word by giving clues that indicate their guesses, making the player who has the word try to figure out what word they're guessing or give up another letter if they can't. There's also &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taboo_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taboo&lt;/a&gt;, in which someone is given a word, and has to get their teammates to guess the word, but has a list of other words that they cannot say while describing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As both word games and creativity games, there are games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balderdash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Balderdash&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fictionary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fictionary&lt;/a&gt; in which you pick an obscure word, one person gets the real definition, and a few people make up definitions. The other players have to then figure out which definition is real. There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charades&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pictionary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pictionary&lt;/a&gt;, in which you get a word or phrase and must describe that to your teammate, in charades by acting it out, in Pictionary by drawing it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apples_to_Apples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt; is a very popular party game, which might be considered a word game, in which someone draws a card with an adjective, and everyone must play nouns that closely match that adjective, at least according to the person who is the current judge; due to the limited selection people have to choose from, you get some very amusing juxtapositions in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other creativity games include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/products/cardgames/cag040.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Big Idea&lt;/a&gt; from Cheapass Games, in which you get pairs of words such as &quot;electric pants&quot; and must describe that as an invention and get people to invest in it, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/10559/why-did-the-chicken-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why Did The Chicken?&lt;/a&gt; by Kory Heath in which you must make up jokes, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Nanofictionary/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nanofictionary&lt;/a&gt; by Looney Labs in which you get cards for Characters, Problems, Settings, and Resolutions, and must combine those into the best tiny story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there are the icebreakers. These are games like Two Truths and a Lie, in which each person in turn will tell two truths and one lie, and the other players have to guess which is the truth and which is the lie. There's Never Have I Ever, in which each person says something that they've never done, and everyone who has done it gets a point (or has to drink, as it's commonly played as a drinking game, however it's not necessary to play this way, you can simply keep score instead); if only one person has done the thing in question, they need to tell the story. There are many more such games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little further afield than what you're looking for, I think, but still involving more social interaction than traditional game mechanics, are negotiation and alliance type games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt;. I have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/602/diplomacy-lite&quot;&gt;question open now looking for &quot;lighter&quot; versions of it&lt;/a&gt;, and there are few games that look promising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another somewhat further category of games, that can be more social interaction based, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Role-playing_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;roleplaying games&lt;/a&gt;; some creative one-shot roleplaying games can have a lot of the same elements of games like Werewolf, with intrigue, cooperation, and backstabbing. I recall one that a friend ran in which all but one of the players were minions of the dark trying to take over the world, but there were two dark lords, a Satanic type and a Cthulhoid monster, competing with each other, plus all of the minions were competing to be favored by their lord. So everyone had three sets of enemies; the Good, the other Evil team, and the other minions on their own Evil team. It was quite the treacherous game, involving lots of intrigue and social interaction; it turned out that Evil had too much infighting, and Good won. There's an &lt;a href=&quot;https://rpg.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;entire other StackExchange for roleplaying games&lt;/a&gt;, so check in there if you want to learn more about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, there are a lot of games that have more social interacting and less traditional board, card, and dice mechanics. I hope I've given a good overview; feel free to ask about a more specific category or game if you want more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:45:50.650" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T05:51:52.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2010-10-24T18:09:54.833" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you need house rules yet.  I suspect that y'all are trying to use too many kindgom cards.  You definitely want to limit the number of kindgom cards in any deck.  The number of terminal actions needs to be pretty low to have a functional deck.  (A terminal action is one which does not give +Actions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counter a money deck, specifically using the base set, I would consider using these cards if available, along with the number I would use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cellar (1-2) - Discard VP cards, draw more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chapel (1) - Trash copper in mid to late game to thin your deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moat (1-2 even if no attacks) - Even without an attack it gives you a replacement card plus one more, helping you to get to 8 gold for that province&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bureaucrat(2) - Gain a silver, slow everyone else down, what is not to like?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Militia (2-3) - worth 2 coins and hurts your enemies - nice!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moneylender(1) - thin your deck, buy bigger things&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smithy(2) - Terminal action, but it replaces itself and brings 2 other cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spy(2) - Replaces itself and slows down your opponents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thief(2+) - Kills money decks dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mine(1) - Helps a money deck out by trashing the copper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Witch(2+) - If you are the only player with witches, you should do pretty well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adventurer(1) - Works well late game if you were able to trash some copper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short - Attacks are always good if nobody else is using them.  Just concentrate on a couple kindgom cards and use them to speed up your deck by trashing copper or by making sure you get more cards/actions than you spend using them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2022-11-18T03:52:33.653" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T03:52:33.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2010-10-24T19:00:04.447" Score="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;There comes a time in every Dominion group's life where they figure out that Big Money (the strategy you describe) is beating everyone else who is going heavy on action cards. Do not fret - it's most often not actually the best strategy.  For example, if everyone else is going Big Money, buying a single Smithy will win a 4-player match about 60% of the time and a 2-player match about 80% of the time (via a trial run of 5000 matches on my simulator program).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is pretty much always a superior strategy to Big Money on the table; you just have to find it.  A common mistake is to spend turns buying &lt;em&gt;too many&lt;/em&gt; Kingdom cards to have giant crazy combos that don't pan out. Another thing to watch out for is going for a longer game with a fantastically combo-heavy deck, but then by the time your deck is all situated someone else has bought all the Provinces.  Even still, combo decks do sometimes work - I have been in some thrilling Village+Bridge decks that beat the pants off Big Money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been playing around enough with it to know for sure, but it seems that the new expansion Prosperity also lends itself toward Kingdom card strategies winning more often. The reason I feel this way is because Prosperity seems to stretch out the game a big longer such that bigger decks with lots of cool combos can succeed quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I like to measure my strategies against Big Money - if it can't reliably beat Big Money, it's not a good strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even still: when in serious doubt, buy a Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T19:00:04.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="182" CreationDate="2010-10-24T20:55:05.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games Workshop is incredibly protective about their IP, so it can be hard to find stuff like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I found a thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talkfantasyfootball.org/viewtopic.php?f=27&amp;amp;t=28881&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that tries to collate the list of star players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the list they've compiled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Star Players&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axebreaker Jones &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Asperon Thorn &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barik Farblast &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dieter Hammerlash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dirty Dan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duke Luthor Von Hawkfire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eldril Sidewinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ernald Spirtburner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frank N. Stein&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Garbage Throttlesnot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Granite Rivalblade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greaser Geargrinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Griff Oberwald&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grimwold Grimbreath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hak Demoncutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harg Vainkill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hawthorn Tullaris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Highelm Lyrpadre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hoshi Komi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hubris Rakarth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ibrahim Golddawn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jacob Von Altdorf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Krug Painspear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moravis Curfew&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Morg'th N'hthrog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Odium Khan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Pick' Seamsunder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pierrot Rainforest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puggy Baconbreath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ramtut III&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rasta Tailspike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rip Sorepain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ritter Von Baum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slarga Fourstrike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soaren Hightower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split Tendoncutter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stuka Schmidtt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Surehanded' Gregor Meissen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tuern Redvenom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Urfrik Skillhack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valen Swift&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Varag Ghoul-chewer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warmglow Vindaloo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wilhelm Chaney&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Withergrasp Doubledrool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wormhowl Greyscar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ziggi Abschuss&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zug&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Companion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bardin Ironglove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bellow Thunderslam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Big' Gunn Schonn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bilerot Vomitflesh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Borg'th N'hthrog&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dolfar Longstride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dorjak Sureclaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eoarn Harkon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flint Churnblade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Galmen Goreblade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gorflem Rot-breath&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grak'ng'grak Gorthag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grograt Crunchskull&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jordell Freshbreeze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kolath Head-ripper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lewdgrip Whiparm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Luarn Proudbow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M'gorg'gn'throg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Petro D'Arvill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siggi 'The Boot' Schuster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spiky Norman&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ugroth 'Ripper' Bolgrot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They sure printed a lot -- hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T20:55:05.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-10-24T21:19:53.560" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason why the less natural hexagonal grid is so popular in wargames and other games where the board represents real-world terrain is that it measures distances much closer than the others.  All six adjacent hexes are the same distance from the central hex, and the variations even out to four or five hexes are small.  Both square and triangular grids have serious problems with unequal distances as a result of the diagonals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're measuring the range of a gun by counting hexes then it won't be far off; if you're measuring on a square grid then it will be either 40% further or 30% less far along the diagonal.  Variations on a hex grid are in single-digit percentages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a triangular grid is that you have the unnatural non-square grid without the advantages you get from the hex grid in not having any diagonals and having a more accurate representation of distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-24T21:19:53.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-10-25T01:26:53.017" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another difference between the three grids is the following: for spaces that &quot;touch&quot;, a square grid has two different relative positions: sharing an edge or touching diagonally. For hex grids, two spaces that &quot;touch&quot; can only share an edge. For a triangular grid, however, there are &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt; options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VPNad.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the red triangle. It touches each of the three other non-white triangles; but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it shares an edge with the black triangle;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is &quot;opposite&quot; the green triangle (that is, you get the green triangle by mirroring the red triangle in one of it vertices);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;neither is true for the blue triangle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By looking at the dual hex grid, we can see that the blue triangle is two steps away from the red triangle, whereas the black one is only one step away and the green one is three steps away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can use the different relationships that triangles can have to eachother, to your advantage when designing a game, by differentiating among them. In some sense, Settlers of Catan does that in some sense - it uses the triangular grid underlying the hex grid of the tiles for placing the cities and streets on, and streets can clearly only be used to connect &quot;triangles that share an edge&quot;. However, cities whose triangles touch share a resource producing hexagon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T01:26:53.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2010-10-25T03:42:33.527" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attack Cards, Attack cards, Attack cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the more useful ones against big money are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pirate Ship (S), $4&lt;/strong&gt;: All other players flip the top two cards of their deck. If any Treasure cards are revealed, trash one of the attacker's choice.  Also accrues tokens each turn you successfully attack and destroy at least 1 treasure, which can be used as money instead of attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saboteur (I), $5&lt;/strong&gt;: Because the players have to keep flipping cards until they reach a card that costs 3 or more, and the card they get in exchange costs 2 less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mountebank (P), $5&lt;/strong&gt;: Players discards a Curse.  If they don't have a Curse in hand, they gain a Curse and Copper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ambassador (S), $3&lt;/strong&gt;: Returning up to two of the same card to Supply.  Give all other players a copy of that card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jester (C), $5&lt;/strong&gt;: All other players flip their top card.  If they flip a Victory card, they gain a Curse.  For any other type of card, you choose whether you get a copy of that card or if they gain a copy of that card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less useful, but still might work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thief (B), $4&lt;/strong&gt;: Steal their money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Noble Brigand (H), $4&lt;/strong&gt;: Steal their Silvers or Golds.  If they didn't flip any money, they gain a Copper. Also, +$1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ghost Ship (S), $5&lt;/strong&gt;: All other players discard down to 3 cards. The discarded cards go on top of their deck. Also, +3 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Militia (B), $4&lt;/strong&gt;: All other players discard down to 3 cards. Also, +$2.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goons (P), $6&lt;/strong&gt;: All other players discard down to 3 cards. In addition, +$2, +1 Buy, and +1 Victory Token for each card you buy this turn.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torturer (I), $5&lt;/strong&gt; - All other players discard 2 cards or gain a Curse.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;…Any attack that gives players Curse cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expansion key used above:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(B) - Base&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(I) - Intrigue&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(S) - Seaside&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(A) - Alchemy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(P) - Prosperity&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(C) - Cornucopia&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(H) - Hinterlands  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T14:11:12.260" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T14:11:12.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="717" CreationDate="2010-10-25T03:49:07.870" Score="16" ViewCount="4576" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play Settlers of Catan with my family we sometimes allow bribing of the person placing the robber to not place it in a particular spot.  Does anyone else play this way and if so do you find this a net benefit to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification: This is a house rule and we realize it is not part of the normal rules.  The question is more to determine whether anyone else plays this way or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="171" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T11:54:00.423" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T08:21:18.650" Title="Is bribing off the robber a good addition to Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-04T19:21:08.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-10-25T04:09:28.300" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules of Catan, players can't trade unless they're both exchanging resources.  Thus, it's not legal for one player to pay a bribe to keep the knight from being placed on their tiles.  If you can come to a gentleman's agreement about placing the robber that's fine, but I've never played it with people using it to extort resources from other players.  I imagine playing like that would be rather unfun if you had to pay protection money to the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, if you have to give up a resource to keep the robber away, you're still being robbed.  Your tiles just aren't blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit - How this could affect play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are strengthening the robber mechanic in the game and changing the game balance.  If each player is willing to give up one or two resources to keep the robber away, this can be huge boost to the person placing the robber.  You're also encouraging people to buy more development cards so they can place the robber more often by playing knights.  Following that logic, wood and brick could become much less valuable resources to collect since they can be demanded from the other players, and don't directly let you buy knights.  This could shift how people choose settlements in the game and encourage all players to try push this mechanic ahead.  It would also punish those not willing to pay bribes by being the target of the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certainly one way to play the game and depending who you're playing will determine how it plays.  This can also reduce the effectiveness of using the robber to hold back the leader from getting further ahead.  I personally can see this producing more tension among players, and don't think I would enjoy this rule change myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T18:09:43.097" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T18:09:43.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-10-25T06:23:26.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it can be a good addition, but beware of the chance to backfire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are known to bribe easily, you are a prime first target for the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution would be to place the robber where it hinders the front runner the most. It's almost the only mechanism to hinder (not stop) the leader in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T18:04:37.530" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T18:04:37.530" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2010-10-25T07:07:54.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have two human players (A &amp;amp; B) and a neutral player X played by A &amp;amp; B. The solution is easy.  If A wants to trade with X, let B handle the trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T07:07:54.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="709" CreationDate="2010-10-25T07:49:06.277" Score="3" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now and again I play the The New Dungeon (with people who don't normally play board games), but I'm always struck by how fast the game is over. It seems like you're barely getting started on the higher levels before someone's off back to the staircase with a winning bagful of loot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any simple custom rules for lengthening the game, or even to make it more interesting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T02:49:31.793" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T02:49:31.793" Title="The New Dungeon lengthening" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2010-10-25T10:02:48.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some rules not mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give other players a cake (preferably self baked) if caught cheating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;don't pay rent to a owner that is in jail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; Ok, the three times a double roll lands you in jail rule is from the original rules. It was always presented as a counter measure for a player with a lucky roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T05:59:29.130" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T05:59:29.130" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="707" CreationDate="2010-10-25T11:40:41.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, I was just looking at this game again the other day, too funny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't played in a few years, I do remember our group has used one (or both) of he following rules to make things play longer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase by 50% or 100% (depending on how long you want the game to play) the amount of loot necessary to win the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Require that in addition to collecting enough loot, you must have collected at least one piece of treasure from each floor, or from a specified number of floors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T11:40:41.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-10-25T12:13:43.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be possible to &lt;em&gt;bribe&lt;/em&gt; players during the placing of the thief, but anyways goes after the thief has been placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen bribes being made in some of the games I've played, but what I've seen a lot more is threats. It could a player holding a lot of evolution cards, promising, the prompt return of the thief if it's placed on certain spots, or more loose threats that they will return the favor should they roll a 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of cause there is also the usual persuading of where the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; spot really is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, a lot can happen during the placement of the thief, but it's really only talks, sometimes backed by actions later, be it knights, resources or a vengeance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user108" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T12:13:43.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="713" CreationDate="2010-10-25T13:18:46.247" Score="6" ViewCount="4267" Body="&lt;p&gt;What other kinds of games are like Hero Quest...? In that, what other games are around with a degree of character development (although not the depth of something like D&amp;amp;D), items etc, that actually takes place on a board...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not chasing something like Munchkin Quest, as your character does not carry over from session to session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T16:34:02.783" Title="Hero Quest type games" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-12-20T23:00:41.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2010-10-25T13:26:07.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There has been a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6366/dungeons-dragons-the-fantasy-adventure-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;D&amp;amp;D board game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T13:26:07.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2010-10-25T13:35:38.170" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think of the greatest of this kind is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17226/descent-journeys-in-the-dark&quot;&gt;Descent: Journeys in the Dark&lt;/a&gt; especially with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/29298/descent-the-road-to-legend&quot;&gt;Road to Legend&lt;/a&gt; expansion which makes carrying over your characters between sessions slightly easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastEditorUserId="43" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T09:30:57.433" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T09:30:57.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2010-10-25T14:55:54.820" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;LittleBobbyTales is correct about the tournament rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond what he has said, (in tournament rules) if the first player for one reason or another accidentally does not make their first play across the center tile and then hits their clock (signaling the end of their turn), the second player has the option to point this out and make the first player remove the play and play again or accept the play.  If the play stands, the first play is not doubled, but it is scored according to whatever premium squares that it covers.  The second player may then play across the center star, earning a double word score.  In this sense, the center star is &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; like a &lt;em&gt;Double Word Score&lt;/em&gt; square.  This does actually happen occasionally in tournaments, sometimes leading to a rare &quot;triple-double,&quot; where the second player plays an 8 letter word from the &lt;em&gt;Triple Word Score&lt;/em&gt; on the edge of the board to the center star, through the first word, garnering a six times word score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also be pointed out that it is often good Scrabble strategy to play the first word off-centered from the center star (i.e. contrary to the second bullet point).  Tournament Scrabble players specifically study 5-letter words with high point tiles at the beginning or the end in order to play them with the high point tile on the &lt;em&gt;Double Letter Score&lt;/em&gt; five squares away from the center star.  Also, it is good technique to avoid putting vowels next to the &lt;em&gt;Double Letter Score&lt;/em&gt; squares in the rows above and below the center star row (or to the left and right, if the word is played vertically).  This avoids the danger of having the second player make a parallel play with a high point letter on the &lt;em&gt;Double Letter Score&lt;/em&gt;, garnering four times the value of that letter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a number of tournament players play their first word vertically, but the majority don't.  It makes no difference, particularly in a casual game, since the board is symmetric, but some tournament players do it to throw their opponent off of their rhythm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2017-11-08T21:44:16.217" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T21:44:16.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-10-25T16:14:59.167" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played this and it absolutely degrades the fun factor of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You end up getting everyone paying off to not get robbed.  The person who will pay the least gets the robber.  We had the person rolling the seven getting huge amounts of resources.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really disrupted the flow of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: we did not change the rules to allow this.  It was done as an agreement that was payed at a legal trading time.  One fun aspect is that, because it was not part of the rules, you could renege on your &quot;payoff&quot; commitment.  (Though this meant you were a sure target the next time around.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there was some fun elements (and gave us a few really fun games), I would absolutely not recommend it for more that variation in a game or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T16:14:59.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-25T16:21:29.627" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the most &lt;strong&gt;EVIL&lt;/strong&gt; play in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is legal though.  Just very very &lt;strong&gt;EVIL&lt;/strong&gt;.  So &lt;strong&gt;EVIL&lt;/strong&gt; that many people get mad when you do it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very frowned on at my table.  If you do it most players will not even acknowledge your trade attempts in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T16:21:29.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="752" CreationDate="2010-10-25T16:40:39.493" Score="10" ViewCount="3693" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Lord of the Rings Risk, in the variant where the Ring moves one territory per turn, requiring a roll of 4 or higher to leave certain territories, and the game ends when the Ring reaches Mt. Doom and is destroyed. At the game's end, victory points are allotted for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Territories owned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete regions (=&quot;continents&quot;) controlled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strongholds owned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adventure cards played throughout the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that once the Ring reaches Mt. Doom, the next player to go has a strong incentive to abandon strategic position and defensibility and just expand as much as he possibly can in order to maximize his points. If the Ring isn't destroyed, then the next player to go does the same thing. If this happens several times, the endgame has a tendency to become a series of ridiculous expansions and contractions that obliterates whatever strategic shape the board had beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What house rules have others used to avoid these problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T23:49:55.287" Title="House rules to fix LotR Risk endgame" Tags="|house-rules|risk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2265" CreationDate="2010-10-25T16:42:43.250" Score="8" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Descent each character has a number of dice representing their skill with melee, ranged, or magic.  There are also dice added for their weapons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a character attack without a weapon?  Are there any special rules for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T18:02:17.393" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T20:35:54.003" Title="In Descent, can you make an attack without an implement?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-25T17:36:57.320" Score="8" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Descent there are various cursed items, which we always played as bind on pickup?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the case?  Can you wield any other weapon while you have a cursed item?  How do you work around this completely making useless a character that gets an item it can't use well (a mage with a two handed sword).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T21:33:46.263" Title="Descent: Can you get rid of cursed items?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="151" CreationDate="2010-10-25T17:43:32.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I agree with the ways @lilserf listed to make it less difficult for the saboteurs to win, the game is intended to be difficult for the saboteur team.  From my experience, the saboteurs shouldn't be able to win any more than a third of the time.  It is because of the difficulty that if the saboteurs win, each saboteur gets 3 gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A win by the good dwarves &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; result in one or more receiving three gold but it is likely that only 1 or 2 gold will be handed out to each since the gold cards are drawn randomly for good dwarves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This alone has been sufficient to keep play balanced and fun in my many plays of this game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T17:43:32.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-10-25T18:26:15.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always considered this fair game (with the bribe always being just a promise to pay off, which could be reneged on), just like you can offer a bribe (technically, I guess, a trade of zero resources for some nonzero number of resources) if another player is willing to not build a road in a direction that would impede you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand them, the official rules do not forbid this, since all you are doing is just talking to other players and then performing some actions that are legal within the game. In fact, I don't even see how you could write house rules that &lt;strong&gt;forbid&lt;/strong&gt; this type of shenanigans, short of restricting the communication between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(A more determined house rules writer could try to restrict this behaviour by specifically stating that both parties have to trade a nonzero number of resources whenever a trade takes place. An attack against that would be to propose &quot;I'll trade you one wood plus two bricks for one wood if you put the robber there&quot;. You could counter that by requiring that there is no overlap in resources between the two batches of resources offered by the parties. Then still, you can promise &quot;I'll trade you three bricks for a wood and then I'll trade you one wood for one brick, if you put the robber there&quot;, or just offer a single very good trade. I don't think you could shut it down completely.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibly as a consequence, I've never enjoyed Catan as much as many other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T18:26:15.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2010-10-25T18:26:28.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since all weapons and skills etc. are essentially adding dice to your standard black dice, I would say you'd use only the black dice (or die) you have as standard for that type of attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course such an attack would be absolutely pants in comparison to a normal attack (1/3 chance of doing 1 damage with no surge conversion), but then so would fists in comparison to an actual weapon; I doubt you could judo throw a dragon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose this would presume ranged attacks would use bits of rock/rubble from nearby (or spit given the effectiveness), and magical attacks would be using the mage's own innate skill (or just meaningful frowning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T18:26:28.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:02:11.930" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you make someone play Possession&#xA;  during a turn in which you Possessed&#xA;  them, that will make that player&#xA;  Possess the player to his left, rather&#xA;  than you getting to Possess anyone&#xA;  further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion: Alchemy Official Rules,  Kingdom Card Descriptions booklet, page 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In other words, this one is literally in the rulebook)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And before you ask, this affects Outpost the same way; the deck owner plays the Outpost hand, I just didn't quote that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T20:14:48.453" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T20:14:48.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="734" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:11:51.760" Score="13" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10/if-possession-is-played-while-executing-another-possession-who-takes-the-next-tu/18#18&quot;&gt;previous question's answer&lt;/a&gt;, you may be forced to play an Outpost or Possession while you are possessing someone else's hand, despite the deck's owner getting to play the Outpost/Possession hand and not you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Outpost creates an ambiguity.  Outpost's rules say to play another hand immediately after this one.  However, due to the Possession, the player's normal turn has not yet taken place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the player take their normal turn next or the Outpost turn next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T11:52:57.523" Title="If an Outpost is played during a Possessed hand, is the Outpost hand played next?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="732" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:29:50.570" Score="5" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/352/trumpet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trumpet&lt;/a&gt; includes three &quot;trumpet&quot; cards &lt;em&gt;without a suit&lt;/em&gt; that always trump any other card.  However, the rules aren't particularly clear on whether they are truly &quot;wild&quot; in the sense that they could count as a card of any suit.  In particular, if you have another card of the suit that has been led, are you allowed to play a trumpet card instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T17:06:29.460" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T17:06:29.460" Title="Does a Trumpet card count as following suit?" Tags="|trumpet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="731" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:47:09.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most games with a trump suit, you must follow with a card of the suit that has been led, unless you are void in that suit (have no cards of that suit), at which point you may play a trump card. Given that, I would assume the rules in Trumpet are the same, and you cannot play a Trumpet unless you're void in the suit led.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/419412/clarification-about-play-of-trumpet-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; agrees, so I'd say it's fairly common to play by that rule, even if the original rules are unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T20:47:09.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="730" CreationDate="2010-10-25T20:50:03.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The turn Outpost is referring to is &quot;this one&quot;, the Possession turn.  Outpost doesn't really care what turn it was played on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So during the clean-up phase of the Possession turn, the possessed player will draw 3 cards instead of 5, and immediately take their Outpost turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the Outpost turn, the originally possessed player will draw 5 cards as normal.  Turn order then returns to where we were before the Possession was played, so it's now the possessed player's turn (finally!) and they take a normal turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your opinion is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T20:50:03.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:26:08.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dice games work well. We used to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greed_%28dice_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greed&lt;/a&gt; at the bar back in college.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-10-25T22:58:33.467" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T22:58:33.467" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-25T21:27:52.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've got a little bit of table space, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saboteur_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt; would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-10-25T21:27:52.807" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2010-10-26T00:32:33.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't recall there being any rules for auto-equipping cursed items; you can elect to use it if you want to, but you don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get a curse token for equipping a cursed item, and while you can remove the cursed item as normal, you do not lose the curse token for un-equipping the item (so if you re-equip it later, you get another curse token).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, if the mage can simply choose not to equip the weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, &lt;strong&gt;Dark Relics&lt;/strong&gt;, on the other hand, must be equipped when found, and the only normal way to remove them is to die.  Fun fun...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T00:32:33.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2010-10-26T03:19:17.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One significant difference that leads me to prefer Descent over DOOM is Ammo.&#xA;In DOOM, Ammo is &quot;full of fail&quot;.  Ammo scarcity is a thematic element that happens to be implemented in an abstract way that is often flat out not fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The breadth of characters and skill and item combinations make Descent really come to life compared to the relatively lackluster variety in DOOM.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surge mechanism in Descent is really novel and can give you a lot of interesting tactical options in battles.  DOOM has no analogue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T03:19:17.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="745" CreationDate="2010-10-26T04:00:43.403" Score="10" ViewCount="2598" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of Hive, envision the following sequence of turns to start the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White plays Beetle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black plays Queen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White moves Beetle on top of Queen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, Black cannot lay any pieces, since every potential spot on the Hive touches White, and Black's only played piece (the Queen) cannot move since it is covered by the Beetle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the rules say that if one side cannot move, then the other player continues to play until the game ends or until there is a legal move for both players.  Is this just a degenerate version of that scenario, and White wins in a ridiculously fast manner by placing all of its pieces around the Beetle/Queen stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T18:49:30.217" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T05:31:13.583" Title="What happens in Hive if you cannot lay a piece?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-26T04:05:35.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2655/hive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hive&lt;/a&gt; is a great abstract game for two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nZ3mM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to completely surround your opponent's Queen Bee.  There are several different types of pieces; each is a bug of some sort, and each has unique rules governing how it moves around the board.  This game is very quick to teach, it's fast to play, and there is a world of depth to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good game for a couple to learn together, as they'll get to discover the best strategies and tactics as they play - each game evolves a bit based on what the players learned in the last game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T04:05:35.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="741" CreationDate="2010-10-26T04:45:01.757" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gen42.com/games/hive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; say you can't move any pieces until you've played the queen. I don't know, it may still be possible to have no legal moves, but the scenario you gave isn't legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2018-12-22T05:31:13.583" LastActivityDate="2018-12-22T05:31:13.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-10-26T04:57:09.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great book called &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0806959150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Super Party Games&lt;/a&gt; that describes a bunch of games that can be played by groups of 10 or more. I generated a set of puzzles for one of the games described in the book. Each player is given a sheet of paper that they tie to their forehead where they can't see it. On each sheet of paper are three letters, and you have to arrange yourselves to spell out a secret quote without telling anybody what letters are on their heads. You can &lt;a href=&quot;https://donkirkby.github.io/donkirkby-old/FortunePuzzles.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;download the puzzles&lt;/a&gt; and print out one of the puzzles for your group size. There are currently puzzles from 4 to 95 people, although I've never tried it with a group larger than 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, imagine that the secret quote is &amp;quot;I'll have what she's having.&amp;quot; That has 21 letters in total, so it makes seven sheets with three letters each. In order, the seven sheets would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ILL&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;HAV&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;EWH&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ATS&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;HES&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;HAV&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;ING&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the sheets are shuffled, so you don't know what order they should go in. To help, you get a clue sheet that shows word lengths and punctuation, as well as card boundaries. It would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A'bc abca bcab cab'c abcabc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each card is represented as &amp;quot;abc&amp;quot;, so you can see where the word boundaries land within each card. I really like playing it, but it's hard to coordinate the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2021-02-19T02:43:31.920" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T02:43:31.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="805" CreationDate="2010-10-26T05:14:46.133" Score="14" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/rwhe/status/28663804050&quot;&gt;Ron Hale-Evans&lt;/a&gt; mused about creating a benchmark game that could be ported to many different game systems as a design exercise. Do you think that would be a useful tool, and can you suggest a game that would be simple enough and flexible enough to fit in many game systems, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludism.org/ppwiki/&quot;&gt;piecepack&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizoGames/library&quot;&gt;Stonehenge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/treehouse.html&quot;&gt;Icehouse&lt;/a&gt;, standard playing cards, or even &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.decktet.com/&quot;&gt;Decktet&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the benefit of the exercise would be that someone could compare several game systems by seeing how their differing components were used to implement similar mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Porting Games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Porting a game to a game system means to take an existing game and modify its rules so that it can be played with a multi-purpose game system. Some examples of game systems are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludism.org/ppwiki/&quot;&gt;piecepack&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizoGames/library&quot;&gt;Stonehenge&lt;/a&gt;, and the others I mentioned above. Some games are trivial to port, such as Nim. (It just involves piles of objects and removing objects from one pile at a time.) But many games are quite a challenge, and can require elegance to bring the essence of the game without all the original equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see some examples of porting games to the piecepack in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludism.org/ppwiki/GoodPortsmanship&quot;&gt;Good Portsmanship contest&lt;/a&gt;, and further discussion of porting games in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludism.org/piecepack/pp7.html&quot;&gt;contest announcement&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T20:26:24.900" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T15:26:56.007" Title="Hello World game for many game systems" Tags="|icehouse|game-design|game-system|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2010-10-26T05:17:36.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought is that games are too delicate to be ported between many systems. I almost regard successful ports as accidental - the game just happened to fit both systems reasonably well. You might argue that a poem is equally delicate, yet Hofstadter and friends made many translations of the same French poem in Le Ton beau de Marot. However, I think the comparison is unfair because natural languages have so many more options than a typical game system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'm still up to experiment. Nim seems too simple and dry; it wouldn't use any interesting features of each system. Eleusis seems too different from most games to be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mancala? The sowing mechanic seems flexible enough to fit in many different environments. Am I being too abstract? It seems like trying to port a theme as well as the mechanics just makes it even harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T05:17:36.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2010-10-26T05:44:13.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koryheath.com/games/zendo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zendo&lt;/a&gt; is an Icehouse game which can be ported to different game systems; none of the fundamental rules refer to any sort of specific pieces, you just need pieces that can be combined together into structures such that there can be some rule that distinguishes two classes of structures built out of the pieces; or if you're familiar with Zendo terminology, you need to be able to build koans out of the pieces, and come up with a rule that distinguishes which koans have the Buddha nature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played Zendo with playing cards before (rules can be things like &quot;a koan has the buddha nature if the red cards add up to 10&quot;), and it could just as well be played with Piecepack (&quot;a koan has the buddha nature if it has at least one sun square and one moon coin&quot;), or likely could be adapted to most any game system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about porting Zendo to other game systems is that the rules you make up will adapt to the attributes of the game system in question; the mechanics don't rely on things you could do with any pieces whatsoever, like count them or put them in piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some other game systems than Icehouse, it might help to have more than one copy, as you need to be able to use identical pieces in different koans to test out theories. An Icehouse set is almost ideally suited, as you have 5 copies of every piece, with just enough attributes different between the pieces (4 colors, 3 sizes, a few different orientations you can place them in, a few ways to stack them) that rules are relatively easy to judge and not too hard to guess; but you can use pretty much any game system you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T05:44:13.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="721" CreationDate="2010-10-26T06:09:05.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that when considering house rules, its best to think about &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; something is happening and attack the cause of the behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The root problem as I see it, is that once the ring is one die roll away from destruction the game has a 50% chance of ending before the current player can lose any newly acquired gains.  Conversely, any reserves not spent that turn are increasingly unlikely to be used productively for each additional player in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider adding one last &quot;round&quot; of play after the ring would be destroyed at Mt. Doom.  Essentially, when the player who &quot;destroyed&quot; the ring finishes his &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; turn the game ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By adding an extra round, you remove the random element of the game ending, allowing everyone to plan ahead and try and defend their territory rationally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T06:09:05.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="760" CreationDate="2010-10-26T07:34:42.073" Score="7" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=170&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Juan&lt;/a&gt; is a admittedly a game with a good deal of luck involved.  However the luck element seems to be emphasised when we play, as some of the cards seem significantly better than other cards of the same value.  For example, given the choice we would always pick a smithy over an archive, a poor house over a crane or a prefecture over a carpenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know or have experience of a variant that attempts to balance the cost-to-quality ratio of the buildings?  Or is our perception wrong - are the buildings priced appropriately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T02:47:43.357" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T18:13:41.033" Title="San Juan variant to balance prices" Tags="|house-rules|san-juan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-26T08:43:57.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41247/mia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mia&lt;/a&gt; is a traditional bar or travel game. All you need is something to count points with, two dice and a opaque cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daihinmin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Daifugō&lt;/a&gt; is another suitable game. Nothing more than a deck of cards is required to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15889/scopa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scopa&lt;/a&gt; requires a 4 color 40 card deck and some way to count points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also many other traditional trick taking games are suitable for pubs or bars as they require little space to be played on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T08:43:57.287" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-26T09:02:05.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt; is a very fun multiplayer trading game. It's a bit more fun if you understand the German word plays on the cards but that's far from necessary. The core game is for 3-5 players and there are numerous expansions that add new twists or simply additional cards for more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that you grow beans. Every card is a bean of a particular sort. You and only grow two sorts of beans at a time and you have to plant your beans in the order you receive them. So in order to turn a profit you need to plan ahead and trade well. It's a very social game that involves a lot of haggling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T09:02:05.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-10-26T09:22:45.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahh Pandemic. There's quite a bit of luck involved. Hitting back to back pandemics can screw you over even in a 4 epidemic game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we got the hang of it we've never lost a 5 epidemic game. So we've been thinking about tackling the 6th card. A big factor in the game are the roles you get. Some combinations just aren't that useful while other simply rock. My suggestion would be to choose your roles and see what combinations suit you most and then try with one of those...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T09:22:45.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2010-10-26T11:19:17.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tiny note to add to the more than sufficient existing answers: When using circular pieces (or pieces with a circular base) a hexagonal board is a more efficient use of space. Hexagons are the shape with the largest number of sides (hence being closer to a circle) that tessalate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence a triangular grid board with the same number of spaces would have to be larger than its hexagonal equivilent to accomodate the same size circular pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T11:19:17.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="753" CreationDate="2010-10-26T11:41:34.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you played with the San Juan expansion buildings from the Treasure Chest set?  While I agree that there are some cards that are simply better than others, the expansion tries to fix this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;code&gt;Park&lt;/code&gt; is a 3-cost building that gives you a discount of 6 instead of 3 if you overbuild it with a &lt;code&gt;Crane&lt;/code&gt;, which might make the crane more enticing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Residence&lt;/code&gt; allows you to score points extra points for each set of 3 buildings with the same building cost.  This could convince you to build some of the less-desired buildings to get the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And personally, I like the &lt;code&gt;Carpenter&lt;/code&gt; -- I've had a few games where I bought a ton of purple buildings, and was able to refill my hand quickly.  It could have been a few lucky draws, but the Carpenter is at least decent in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T11:41:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2010-10-26T13:10:21.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always play with a &lt;strong&gt;quick start&lt;/strong&gt; house rule: In the beginning of the game we shuffle all the properties and everyone draws one. They have to pay for it but have an asset from the get go. We sometimes exclude the most expensive and the cheapest properties from the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We never once played with the auction rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and ever since that last time where my father got his mother to essentially give him all her properties for a bit of money I'm insisting on the &lt;strong&gt;No favors for friends, families or significant others&lt;/strong&gt; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T13:10:21.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="766" CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:33:59.560" Score="14" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before buying a board game, I would like to read some detailed reviews.  It's also hard to tell if the review is just a paid announcement from the publisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any website that is &quot;&lt;em&gt;the reference&lt;/em&gt;&quot; for those? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:11:43.133" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:11:43.133" Title="Where can I find reviews of board games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-01-14T16:15:30.267" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:36:32.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; has lots of user reviews and ratings of board games.  It's a little hard to navigate sometimes, but there's a lot of valuable information there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T14:36:32.657" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-10-26T14:56:48.507" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; can be a great resource, but it can be a bit hard to figure out where everything is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you can search for games by name, if you know what game you're looking for. Or you can use the &quot;Browse&quot; feature to find games by category or mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've found a game, you find yourself on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot;&gt;a page that's stuffed full of information&lt;/a&gt;, somewhat haphazardly laid out. At the top, there is the name of the game, a picture, and some basic information on number of players, suggested age range, and so on. This can be useful to determine if it will work well for your group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then see a description of the game, followed by some places it might be for sale, followed by some additional information. Keep on looking as you go down, you eventually come to the Forums. Click on the &quot;Reviews&quot; link, and you will see a list of all of the reviews for that game. Look through these; they tend to be fairly detailed, explaining the mechanics of the game and how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not all that BGG has to offer, though. If you keep looking further down the page, you come to the Statistics section. This is where statistics about people's ratings and the game's ranking are collected. One of the links is to &quot;Personal comments.&quot; This will give you a list of many short comments that people have made on the games, organized by their rating. I find this invaluable for getting a quick feel of why some people liked the game, and some didn't; I usually try to check out a few of the comments with a 10 rating, a few with a 7 rating, and a few with lower ratings, to get a sense of how different people see the game. Only a few people leave long, detailed reviews, but there are usually hundreds of people who leave comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T15:37:09.580" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T15:37:09.580" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="611" CreationDate="2010-10-26T15:26:57.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I submitted this question to Fantasy Flight support. Here's the response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the purposes of using the Engine Room during Roslin's turn, whichever card Roslin chooses to resolve is treated as &quot;the next Crisis Card drawn.&quot; Hope that clears things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T15:26:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-10-26T16:05:16.113" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41114/the-resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;La Resistance!&lt;/a&gt; This is a great Werewolf/Mafia game that runs without a moderator, and even works for 5 players! It's tense, tactical, emotionally draining, and best of all, everyone plays right up until the end of the game, no-one gets eliminated during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one drawback is that is becomes a little luck-based as the number of players reaches 8 and beyond, so at that point, we tend to switch back to Werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T16:05:16.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-10-26T17:40:09.223" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had fun playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merchant_of_venus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Merchant of Venus&lt;/a&gt; 2 player, after not having played it for a few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T17:40:09.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:29:41.893" Score="45" ViewCount="47020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only just discovered Carcassonne (thanks to the iPhone app), but I keep losing (in 3-player games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which standard strategies are there? (game without extensions, 3-4 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One strategy per answer please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T03:57:50.833" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T02:17:05.810" Title="What are good standard strategies for Carcassonne ?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:34:07.833" Score="36" ViewCount="6838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people consider tactics and strategy to be distinct (as they apply to boardgames), while I regard them both as &quot;structured methods and plans to win&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they distinct? And what are the differences? (I'm aware of the difference between tactics and strategy in the military).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T03:50:00.350" LastActivityDate="2020-10-20T16:50:42.437" Title="What's the difference between a tactic and a strategy?" Tags="|terminology|tactics|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:35:26.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/46422/nostra-city&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nostra City&lt;/a&gt; is nice, I played it once a few weeks ago.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The story is that the mafia godfather is arrested and faces enough charges to spend the rest of his life in prison.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;He makes clear to his men that when they manage to save him from prison, he will retire and the one who did most to save him will take his place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The players are his lieutenants and try to bribe or threaten witnesses, judges and so on in order to get him found unguilty. Plus, they have to collect victory points (called &quot;respect&quot; in this game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But some of the players are FBI agents (when I recall it correctly from the one game I played, there were two of them in a five player game).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unlike in Battlestar Galactica, roles are not assigned at the start of the game. Instead, there is a deck of cards where every player draws from in each round anyway, and the &quot;You are an FBI agent&quot; cards are somewhere in there.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So at the beginning of the game all players are on the same side, but during the game some of the players will secretly change sides and become FBI agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the winner is declared like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Godfather is not guilty, the FBI agents have lost and the lieutenant with the most respect (victory points) is the winner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Godfather is found guilty, the lieutenants have lost and the FBI agent with the most respect is the winner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user135" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T18:35:26.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:45:44.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't specify if you want complex or light games.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If light games are okay, I'd recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/494/ave-caesar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ave Caesar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a light chariot-racing game. There's nearly no downtime (every player has three movement cards with values between 1 and 6 in his hand and must choose one, move his pawn and that's it), and there's interaction because the race track has narrow places where you can block your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; light, but with 6 players, it's fun (the box says 3 to 6 players, but IMO it's not that good with less players)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user135" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T18:45:44.337" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T18:45:44.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:54:42.640" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My strategy for Carcassonne has always been to build reasonably big cities. It means that other players are not scoring as many points by farming, as there are fewer cities, plus big cities are very rewarding. I do try to finish cities with a reasonable time left to play however, to ensure other players don't disrupt the building, which can result in limited scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessandpoker.com/carcassonne-rules-and-strategy-guide.html&quot;&gt;very good write up&lt;/a&gt; of my strategy, quoted below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build Big and Complete&lt;/strong&gt;: In general,&#xA;  it's a solid strategy to build and&#xA;  complete as many large structures as&#xA;  you can. Building up your segments&#xA;  fast and effectively, by avoiding time&#xA;  wasting tile placements that don't&#xA;  immediately benefit or protect your&#xA;  segments, is essential to both putting&#xA;  a healthy dose of points on the board&#xA;  and also to reclaiming your meeples in&#xA;  a timely manner. Of course, too much&#xA;  of a good thing may turn out to be&#xA;  detrimental to your success. Be&#xA;  careful not to get too ambitious when&#xA;  it comes to gargantuan constructions&#xA;  since you will eventually have to&#xA;  complete these monsters to gain the&#xA;  lions share of the points. If someone&#xA;  comes along and plays a tile that will&#xA;  prevent you from completing your work&#xA;  of art, or you simply run out of time&#xA;  and tiles, you'll score the minimum&#xA;  points with the end-of-game scoring&#xA;  rules. Additionally, your poor&#xA;  meeple(s) will be stranded in the&#xA;  segment the entire time it's being&#xA;  built as well. Being reasonable and&#xA;  knowing when it's time to cap off the&#xA;  segment will help you avoid the&#xA;  dangers of greedily (and unwisely)&#xA;  going wild with your building plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T14:39:07.390" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T14:39:07.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-26T18:57:49.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if the two games I first thought of are already mentioned in other answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly every cooperative game is ideal for single play, because you can just play two or more players without having to make any rule changes. (The two that I play alone are Pandemic and Arkham Horror, both already mentioned.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception is of course when the game is cooperative, but every player has his own information and is not allowed to share it with others. I consider that rather strange for a cooperative game (and didn't like the idea), but I played one where this was the case, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38506/witch-of-salem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Witch of Salem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user135" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:24:15.817" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:24:15.817" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:00:28.250" Score="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tactics in a board game usually refer to short-term optimizations to get a better local position in the game. Strategy refers to your long-term plans, for combining the results of many shorter term interactions into a winning game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games have only tactical considerations, or an emphasis on them, while some games are more amenable to long-range planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28game%29&quot;&gt;Go&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, you may study tactical issues such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?LifeAndDeath&quot;&gt;life and death&lt;/a&gt; (whether you can save or kill a particular enclosed group) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Tesuji&quot;&gt;tesuji&lt;/a&gt; (clever tactics for killing and splitting your opponents stones, or saving or connecting your own), while also important are strategic issue like &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?PositionalJudgment&quot;&gt;positional judgement&lt;/a&gt; (figuring out in the middle game who is ahead, and where they are ahead), &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?DirectionOfPlay&quot;&gt;direction of play&lt;/a&gt;, and balancing between &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?TerritoryVersusInfluenceStyles&quot;&gt;territory and influence&lt;/a&gt;. Effective strategic play must of course be built on solid tactical play, but it can determine who winds up having the advantage in most tactical battles, and who winds up with the most territory even if they lose small battles here and there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept can apply to other games as well. Tactics will usually influence how you play best for one or a few turns in a row, while strategy guides what you are doing for the whole game; how you will win. Strategy is about what you are trying to do, and tactics how you are trying to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Settlers_of_Catan&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt;, some strategic options may be going for roads and settlements, to try and get the longest road and a lot of settlements (with just enough cities to allow you to build more), or your strategy may be going with cities and development cards, with just enough settlements to allow you to build the cities you need; or you might have a ports based strategy, in which you try and obtain favorable ports and can thus buy any resources you need. The tactics used to support these strategies may be somewhat different, but they will involve tricks for getting the best trade, blocking your opponent quickly so you can get to the space you need, proper placement of the robber to slow down someone else competing with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-26T19:09:49.207" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:09:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:02:14.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not directly what you asked for, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problem is that there are no other people around &lt;strong&gt;in person&lt;/strong&gt; who want to play board games, you could play with other people online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the most known site for this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://brettspielwelt.de/?nation=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brettspielwelt.de&lt;/a&gt;. It's a German site, but you can switch the site language to English, there are lots of international players around and nearly everyone there speaks English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user135" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:22:40.063" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:22:40.063" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:03:01.300" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, not a ton of strategy, mostly tactics.  Just make sure you're doing the math on the &quot;upside&quot; of every move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How many points will you expect to earn with this move?  How much of that will be because your opponents have helped out?  (such as when you place a city caddy-cornered and try to join them later)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roughly how many moves are left in the game?  That will guide you on how aggressive to be about placing pieces where you need subsequent pieces to complete a city/road/cathedral.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When placing a piece where you need another piece next to it to complete it, measure the difficulty of completing that piece.  In general, the number of pieces already surrounding that other spot, the harder it is to complete, and cities/roads are slightly harder to connect to than field.  By the way, this calculation can also be used to place pieces to make things harder for your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:03:01.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:03:07.670" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Put farmers on valuable farms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that if people are building smaller cities, then it's good to get farmers in early; you can monopolize the farms, and make a lot of points at the end. You need to be careful with this approach, as having your meeples locked up in farms means you can't use them later when you need them, but if there's a valuable enough farm to be had, then take it before someone else does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:03:07.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="941" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:12:29.010" Score="3" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a viable strategy in Saint Petersburg that involves focusing on buildings (blue cards) while buying at most, say, one or two aristocrats (orange cards)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please clarify whether your analysis is with or without the expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-04T05:27:37.293" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T05:27:37.293" Title="Is there a Saint Petersburg strategy that doesn't involve buying Aristocrats?" Tags="|saint-petersburg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:36:37.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that in wargames, tactics and strategy have exactly the same meaning as they do in the military.  In fact, when it comes to tactics, questions you often need to ask in a game are &quot;how does this game implement concentration of force&quot; or &quot;where is a good spot in game terms to keep a reserve&quot; - which can all be strongly affected by things like ZOC rules, and the ability of the enemy to concentrate firepower on stacked units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategic considerations may be out of scope of the game, but when you're playing something like &lt;strong&gt;World in Flames&lt;/strong&gt; then, you need to build plans and flex them on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:36:37.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="671" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:39:42.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 12 of the rule book says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many haunts put one or more item tokens in the house, which have special rules for their use. Unless the haunt says otherwise, item tokens can be traded, dropped, or stolen just like item and omen cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why they felt it necessary to mention that they can be stolen or traded in the haunt, since that would already be the case according the above rule. However, it does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; say they cannot be dropped, therefore they can. If they can be dropped, then I would assume they are also dropped when a character dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:39:42.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:40:38.953" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strand your opponents Meeples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you place a piece, of course try to make it advantageous to yourself.  But if you can, place it to hinder your opponent.  If he is trying to complete a city and you weren't able to figure out a way to share it, then place a tile next to the potential closing piece.  This will limit his options.  By slowing down the rate that his meeples return you will gain an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times, it is possible to leave an empty space that no tile can be placed in.  If your opponent has an unfinished city or road that connects to that empty space then his meeple will not be returning to his hand and will generate a sub-standard score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 main empty squares that cannot be filled using pieces from only the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no tile containing 1 road, 1 city, and 2 field sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no tile containing 1 road, 2 city, and 1 field sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a little practice it is pretty easy to get this to work against even moderately experienced players.  I played a game online recently that followed this general sequence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent had a couple pieces towards a city&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I played a city tile with a meeple to try to encourage sharing the city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He played another city+meeple to defend and was able to connect his 2 before I could share&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was able to complete my city while surrounding an empty square, making it unplayable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a bonus, he also had an unfinished road running into the empty square.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent had 3 meeples stranded and it we were only 1/3rd of the way through the game!  He stood no chance to win the game at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:40:38.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:40:53.523" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that there's a direct relationship between the near-ubiquitous Free Parking and no-auctions rules and people's perception that Monopoly is a game that takes forever to play.  The playing time of Monopoly is a function of how fast people run out of money, which is a function of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) how quickly all the properties get sold and developed and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) how slowly new money enters the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't auction properties, it takes a lot longer for all the properties to get sold.  If you put fines in Free Parking, they come back into the game.  You've now turned a 60-90 minute game into one that takes 3-4 hours to play.  The next step in this process is getting on boardgamegeek.com and telling everyone how terrible a game Monopoly is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T05:53:32.663" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T05:53:32.663" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:43:51.330" Score="9" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Sabotage your opponents&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One element that is a much bigger factor in the iPhone game than in real life is using your tiles to prevent an opponent from completing something they're working on.  The iPhone game will show an &quot;X&quot; when no remaining tiles can be played in a given spot, and will show you all the remaining tiles yet unplayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use this to your advantage by placing a piece that will leave an opponent's city, road, or cloister unfinished, or leave a field unable to be connected to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the tabletop game this is less common because you generally don't know precisely which tiles are left and you have to do the computation of whether there are any pieces playable in a given spot yourself instead of having the game do it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:43:51.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:49:40.177" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strategy is the long term plan. It is how you intend to play your game, such as &quot;the money route&quot;, &quot;the resource route&quot;, or &quot;the balanced route&quot;. It is your plan, its your high level approach to achieving your goal, i.e. winning the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactics are the finer detail. Your tactics are HOW you are going to achieve your strategy. If you are going &quot;the money route&quot;, in turn X, what actions are you going to take to maximise the amount of money you get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Strategy without tactics is the&#xA;  slowest route to victory. Tactics&#xA;  without strategy is the noise before&#xA;  defeat.&quot; - Sun Tzu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:49:40.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-10-26T19:56:49.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An interesting game that I'm pretty sure no one else will mention is a 1998 German game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/564/die-seidenstrasse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Die Seidenstrasse&lt;/a&gt;.  This is a sort of economic race game in which the players are merchants travelling along the Silk Road.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes it work so well with six players:  On your turn, you can do one of two things:  you play a card from your hand to the table in front of you, and apply its effect to you, or you play a card on the table on front of you, and apply its effect on another player.  You can't play a card from your hand if you already have three cards on the table, so after the game gets under way, half the time you're compelled to move someone else on your turn.  Also, you can't just move anyone; you have to move one of the two players who least recently moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes for a game that seems very chaotic, unless people have played it before and know the cards, in which case there's a surprising amount of strategy for a game where all you do on your turn is play a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T19:56:49.330" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-10-26T19:56:49.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2010-10-26T20:12:50.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strategy is a plan.  Tactics are the details used to implement that plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;, you may have a building strategy, this might lead you to use tactics in the beginning like getting quarries, and buying buildings that will help you make money.  A shipping strategy may have you use the tactic of pulling corn when settler comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T20:12:50.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="796" CreationDate="2010-10-26T20:23:57.523" Score="19" ViewCount="4018" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many board games have a special deck of cards and over time get worn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they start to get worn out, they get &quot;sticky&quot; and difficult to shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way or a product that can be applied to a deck of cards to make them &quot;slippery&quot; again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T20:29:03.297" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T20:29:03.297" Title="Restoring worn-out deck of cards." Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="793" CreationDate="2010-10-26T20:32:51.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stickiness of cards is typically just due one of two things, the surface of the card becoming rough or warped due to actual wear, or the build up of oils from contact with the fingers.  In the case of oils, which you can tell thats what it is because the cards still have a reflective surface, you can just use a damp rag (not wet) with soap on it, and give it 2 fast light swipes on each side, making sure to hit the corners and dry it off with a paper towel afterward.  You can also just take a hair dryer to them, in a spray paint motion where you never stop moving the airflow, then wipe them with a dry paper towel immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any products to return them to slippery state, but most games you can buy replacement parts for through the manufacturer, right down to individual cards that may have been damaged or destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T20:32:51.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="865" CreationDate="2010-10-26T20:39:50.113" Score="7" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tactics can you use to help determine what your opponent is looking for in two player 10 card Gin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2022-03-30T12:52:50.697" LastActivityDate="2022-03-30T12:52:50.697" Title="In 2 player, 10 card Gin, figuring out opponents cards" Tags="|gin-rummy|skill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="793" CreationDate="2010-10-26T20:49:14.853" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=deck+sleeves&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;prmd=s&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbs=shop:1&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;ei=JD3HTNTLMsGp8Abk__XkDw&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=product_result_group&amp;amp;ct=title&amp;amp;resnum=3&amp;amp;ved=0CDQQrQQwAg&quot;&gt;deck sleeves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should be available at your local game store, or from any number of online suppliers.  They are available in various sizes, so be sure to bring a sample card along while shopping (or measure it precisely before hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online you can find lower quality sleeves for around 1 cent apiece in bulk.  Higher quality sleeves may cost upwards of 10 cents/sleeve.  The higher quality will give you a sleeve that shuffles much easier and can optionally have an opaque back.  (An opaque back is desirable if some of your cards are marked or bent due to heavy use).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultra-Pro and Fantasy Flight are two high quality well known manufacturers to ask for if you want somewhere to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T05:26:05.503" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T05:26:05.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="798" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:00:43.927" Score="21" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is not about a particular situation in the game, but rather how to study the game in the sense of if I wanted to learn Scrabble, I would spend time focusing on how certain uncommon letters can be used in words of length X or the goals of different strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one had ever played Risk before, how would we go about learning to evaluate which moves are better for a particular situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="136" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T07:18:35.397" Title="How would you &quot;study&quot; Risk?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="797" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:15:00.920" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is purely off the top of my head, but the following come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn the most likely die rolls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at paths of contact (eg, you can only get to Australia through Siam)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find &quot;choke points&quot; (building off the contact paths)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that Continent bonuses are in proportion to not only size, but difficulty in holding/winning them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gameplay &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be wildly different with two players instead of 3, 4, 5, or 6&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ultimately &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; games devolve into 2 player games, but knowing how to handle the higher number of players is key to surviving long enough to be in the final pairing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Neutral player in a 2 player game can have some interesting consequences when playing strictly&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because they are not required to be eliminated to win, you might only attack to gain a Risk card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depending on how the cards were dealt, they can be used to your (or the other player's) advantage as a buffer to weaken attacks (or strengthen defense), forcing the attacker to expend more armies to defeat the defender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else I can think of come with time and practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;like when to attack / when not to attack&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for example, if your contact territories are heavily defended, but your non-contact territories only have one or two armies, it may be a Bad Idea&amp;trade; to attack from there if the enemy territories are moderately-well defended (ie, they could attack back form multiple directions easily against a weakened contact territory and wipe-out the middle of your holdings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when to hold cards / when to turn them in&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for example, if you &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; that your opponent &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; turn his cards in on his next turn (he has 5, and therefore has a set), but you have the option (perhaps you have a set, but you have four cards, and can therefore wait a turn), it may be worthwhile holding yours till after he turns his in to get the next-higher army value from them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in my experience, holding your trades only notably impacts the game early on (before the turn-in exceeds 10 armies)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget the psychology of the game, too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some players &quot;want&quot; Africa and will do [almost] anything to get/keep it (for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aggressive vs non-aggressive play styles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T13:24:30.927" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T13:24:30.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="811" CreationDate="2010-10-26T21:46:28.883" Score="14" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;Between the World Championship Match against Spassky in 1972 and his rematch against Spassky in 1992, Bobby Fischer played no tournament games, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobby_Fischer#Forfeiture_of_title&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;not even to defend his title&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; published games in existence played by Fischer during this period?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T11:11:10.150" Title="Are there any published games of Bobby Fischer as world champion?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="721" CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:14:30.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The variant that we've experimented with is to give no victory points for territories owned, only for adventure cards, regions, and strongholds. Most of the point swing comes from the masses of undefended junk territories that you can acquire on your last turn, while getting entire regions and strongholds requires more effort. Strongholds in particular are hard to take and easy to defend, meaning they're less likely to change hands en masse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T22:14:30.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:48:04.397" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battleship_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battleship&lt;/a&gt; is a ease to setup and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T22:48:04.397" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-26T22:52:42.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waterworks_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Waterworks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is very fun from 8 to 80 years old. It's like a domino game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="150" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T22:52:42.003" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2010-10-26T23:36:44.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;( abstracted from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/buzz/ludism/FCQD89cPwBr/rwhe-It-would-be-interesting-to-create-a-benchgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.com/buzz/ludism/FCQD89cPwBr/rwhe-It-would-be-interesting-to-create-a-benchgame&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial answer for best benchgame was &quot;The Lady or the Tiger?&quot;, which is the &quot;benchfic&quot; used by these folks, who inspired the benchgame idea in the first place. They probably use it because (a) it's in the public domain, (b) it's about a highly significant choice in a simple game, and (c) it's a ripping good story:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://writerresponsetheory.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Benchmark_DAC_proposal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://writerresponsetheory.org/mediawiki/index.php?title=Benchmark_DAC_proposal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Frank Richard Stockton story itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/396&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/396&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, there is no existing &quot;The Lady or the Tiger&quot;-themed game in BoardGameGeek, which is weird, but very good for this project. The field is clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we treat LoT as the benchgame, we can retain compatibility with the benchfic project and still have plenty of flexibility for individual style in ports to various game systems, as well as room for more direct ports among them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A port of this story should be non-trivial, more fleshed out than Hello, World, and probably more so than Cloak of Darkness ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.firthworks.com/roger/cloak/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.firthworks.com/roger/cloak/&lt;/a&gt; ), but still very short, like the story itself. The story is readable and fun, so a board or card game port should be playable and fun. I envision certain versions of LoT -- say for the piecepack -- as a social game, possibly a couples' game. Maybe an iterated Prisoner's Dilemma kind of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I suggested a pan-game-system design competition a while back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/#!/rwhe/status/27115198293&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://twitter.com/#!/rwhe/status/27115198293&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/#!/rwhe/status/27158778288&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://twitter.com/#!/rwhe/status/27158778288&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don had the idea that all games in this contest would have to be ports of &quot;The Lady or the Tiger?&quot;. I think that's a great idea. Anyone game? I've run two previous contests, including Good Portsmanship, and I'd like to be involved in this one, but I don't have the time to run it by myself right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="194" LastEditorUserId="194" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T04:03:09.897" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T04:03:09.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2010-10-26T23:37:03.600" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would add a single advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plan your turn before the auctions start.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually plan my turn backwards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many cities can I connect to with the money I have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much will I (likely) need to pay for resources for my current plants?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now how much is there left for auctions? (counting both the plant price and its resources for at least 1 turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this initial calculation I can adjust the numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I don't have enough to pay for resources, build 1 fewer city unless there's an obvious new plant that would use cheaper resources or replace an expensive one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only bid on power plants that help reach at least the new number of cities, ideally more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes it can be worth throwing this plan out the window if there is a really juicy plant, especially if you can get it at face value and you won't have to replace it for a long time, or even ever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recognise that this could potentially engender some analysis paralysis, so unless everybody does it, please be nice and move on quickly, keep it fun! Or practice to do it faster; I'm slow at mental calcs so I just split the money on my lap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T03:55:14.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:55:14.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="721" CreationDate="2010-10-26T23:49:55.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played my copy of LotR: Risk enough to have developed house-rules, however, I do have a couple ideas that might help in this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could state that only territories with # armies on them score points at the end of the round.  That would force the last player to leave behind armies and would think out the attacking force.  Of course the player would likely choose to attack enemy territories until they were below the threshold to take points away from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea that I like better because it is somewhat in keeping with the story (stretching a bit perhaps) would be to declare that as the ring reaches Mt. Doom the player turns end as normal then the armies of Mt. Doom make one final push to take over the land.  Each territory would be attacked 1 time by 3 attacking armies (3 dice). Only surviving territories would be counted in the player scores.  From a story standpoint think  &quot;cleansing of the shire&quot;.  I think this has the advantage of making all players be careful about how thinly they spread their armies.  You could adjust the number of Mt. Doom armies that attack (# of dice) or the number of times they attack to make it harder to finish with territories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, I haven't played LotR Risk much so maybe this is a horrible idea.  I suppose I should pull it out of the closet and playtest my idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2010-10-26T23:49:55.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-10-27T00:50:36.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgame-reviews.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGame Review&lt;/a&gt; is a blog that provides useful board game reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T00:50:36.953" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="800" CreationDate="2010-10-27T00:57:56.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chess.pl?page=38&amp;amp;pid=19233&amp;amp;eresult=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chessgames.com has three games Fischer played against the Greenblatt computer program&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those seems to be the only games of Fischer available online during this time period. There don't appear to be any copies online of Fischer's five minute 1981 games with Peter Biyiasas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2022-01-14T11:11:10.150" LastActivityDate="2022-01-14T11:11:10.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2010-10-27T01:07:14.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We do a bit of houserulery and slowly change the game between each session.&#xA;At the end of a game each player will pick one kingdom to remove, and then we'll split the randomisers about equally and everyone picks a kingdom to replace the ones they've removed.&#xA;We wait to pick the replacements until everyone has selected the ones that are going away, and generally try and keep the various costs between 2-5 in play.&#xA;After a 3 player game whomever came in third gets to remove and replace 2 kingdoms. In a two player, both player removes two. This way there are four new cards each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T01:07:14.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2010-10-27T01:17:10.653" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time the loan is really worthwhile is if there no other means of trashing cards or upgrading them. If there is a Steward, Upgrade, Mine, Forge, Bishop, etc. in play, don't bother buying a loan...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really feel the Loan should have been &lt;code&gt;Discard or Trash it. If you trash it +1 {money}.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T01:17:10.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="818" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:26:49.530" Score="9" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has the math been done on an optimal setup of security cameras and painting locations in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1484/clue-great-museum-caper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cluedo: The Great Museum Caper&lt;/a&gt;...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditorDisplayName="anon77" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T23:45:28.030" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T23:45:28.030" Title="What's the optimal setup for Cluedo: The Great Museum Caper?" Tags="|cluedo-the-great-mystery-caper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="835" CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:33:21.730" Score="9" ViewCount="1357" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it has been a while since I last played Carcassonne using The Tower expansion, I seem to recall a level of confusion as to how the rules surrounding The Tower interacted with the rules of the Dragon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can the Dragon destroy towers...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:21:41.977" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T04:21:41.977" Title="Carcassonne - The Tower and The Dragon" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="827" CreationDate="2010-10-27T02:44:40.523" Score="3" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any backstory to the different races in Warhammer 40K...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="131" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T21:56:58.827" Title="Warhammer 40K backstory" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1100" CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:05:27.960" Score="12" ViewCount="26777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently gotten Cities &amp;amp; Knights and plan to play it with my existing Seafarers of Catan expansion once I get the hang of it.  Looking through the manuals for both Seafarers of Catan and Catan: Cities &amp;amp; Knights, I can't find how many victory point should I play to when combining the expansions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both expansions can be played together, but it doesn't say how many victory points to play to.  I assume since Cities &amp;amp; Knights increases the number of victory points you play on the base settlers map, it would do the same for the Seafarers maps, but I can't find a reference for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing a Seafarers Scenario with Cities &amp;amp; Knights, do you play to the number of victory points for the scenario, or do you increase the number of victory points you play too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T06:35:00.493" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T08:03:35.277" Title="With both Seafarers and Cities &amp; Knights expansions, how many victory points should I play to?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="823" CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:07:16.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A basic introduction is available via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?pageMode=multi&amp;amp;categoryId=cat440130a&amp;amp;pIndex=4&amp;amp;aId=9300005&amp;amp;start=5&quot;&gt;Games Workshop&lt;/a&gt;, and a general overview can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warhammer_40,000&quot;&gt;Warhammer_40,000 page on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, there is an enormous amount of information available in the Codexes.  Games workshop produces a Codex for each race which contains a lot of backstory as well as units and rules specific to that race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="48" LastEditorUserId="1666" LastEditDate="2011-08-11T21:56:58.827" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T21:56:58.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="839" CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:31:18.620" Score="56" ViewCount="7367" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question asked as example on &lt;a href=&quot;http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/5220/board-and-card-games/6655#6655&quot;&gt;Area51&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember when I was a kid I hated to lose, and worse; I would try to cheat to win. I don't remember when or how this attitude changed but I started to hate players who tried to cheat or make the game too serious and don't accept losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, accepting a loss after doing your best has a significant role in every person's life. What are some good games or techniques for helping kids learn to &quot;lose gracefully&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="5270" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T20:44:16.547" LastActivityDate="2023-01-11T14:33:15.717" Title="What are some good games or techniques for helping kids learn to &quot;lose gracefully&quot;?" Tags="|teaching|kids|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="856" CreationDate="2010-10-27T03:49:59.767" Score="8" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;How to I avoid one player getting too strong by playing just to defend a small area or continent and only gaining territories just to obtain Risk cards to trade in for more armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T14:43:06.553" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T04:53:08.780" Title="How can I compete against the unit armies tactic in Risk?" Tags="|risk|tactics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:22:57.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure, but maybe playing games in partnerships or teams would lessen the sting of losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a mixture of cooperative and competitive games would also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any game where players can exclude an unpleasant player from deals or trading might be effective in letting a child see the consequences. However, it would have to be done very delicately to avoid upsetting the child too much. Some examples with trading and dealing are Settlers of Catan and I'm the Boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T04:28:11.797" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T04:28:11.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:27:17.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ludo_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ludo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a race game that I played a lot in my early days. I missed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T04:27:17.753" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="876" CreationDate="2010-10-27T04:52:58.137" Score="7" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a board game which I knew when I was a kid. Nobody let me play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's played in the Middle East. It has oil pipelines to link territories, oil tanker ships, perhaps an oil drill, dictator (a hand), artillery (tank), a head piece (sorry I don't remember what it is), and if I'm not wrong it has a king and a warrior or spy too. I don't remember if it had money, dice, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objective, if I remember correctly, was to gain power, economy control, etc. It has &lt;strong&gt;some&lt;/strong&gt; similarities to Risk and Diplomacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T11:58:49.690" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T02:26:03.350" Title="What's the name of this board game about a Middle East oil war?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="819" CreationDate="2010-10-27T05:01:25.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dragons can't eat tower pieces or barns (only followers). Dragons &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; eat followers on the tops of towers. This is discussed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/22896/annotatedrules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;huge annotated rules clarification&lt;/a&gt; on Board Game Geek, which has the following to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 45:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a follower is deployed to the top of a tower, the construction of the tower is finished&#xA;and it may not be built any further. The follower remains on top of the tower until the&#xA;end of the game and is not removed or returned to the player unless eaten by the&#xA;dragon or captured by another tower. This action may be useful when a player&#xA;wishes to protect a more valuable follower from capture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 54:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A barn cannot be removed by the dragon (from The Princess and the Dragon), nor taken prisoner by a tower (from The Tower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some relevant related rulings (footnotes in the document):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(105) Q: If there are 2 followers on 1&#xA;tile (tower and city) does the dragon&#xA;eat them both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: [It eats them ] all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(116) Q: If the dragon can eat a&#xA;follower on a tower, can the follower&#xA;also be seduced by a princess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The tower is not a part of the city: they are two separate areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(133) Q: If you place a dragon tile and add a piece to a tower, what happens&#xA;first: follower capture by the tower, or dragon movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Prisoners are taken first; placing a tower piece is an&#xA;alternative to deploying a follower, so occurs before dragon movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dragon food clarifications can be found on p.68-70. To summarise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dragon food: Follower, Big Follower,&#xA;Mayor, Wagon, Builder Pig, [Follower on] Tower&#xA;Block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not dragon food: Barn, Count,&#xA;Fairy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T05:01:25.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:06:39.077" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I personally suffered from this condition for a long time---and still do to some extent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the ability to lose gracefully is dependent on one's self esteem. It is much easier to shrug off a defeat if your self esteem is secure than when your whole life is a battle for every scrap of validation. With age (I'd say 20+) it does get easier to recognize and control such tendencies in oneself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing games where no one loses. There are games that do not employ the competitive aspect of most games. A good game shop should be able to help you find them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing games where winning and losing is shared among multiple players. Team based or completely cooperative games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not rubbing in defeats. Kinda obvious but there it is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help the child see what they did well. Point out good moves, complement them when they show self restraint during a loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that don't help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Telling the child they're a bad loser. The child is not going to see it that way. Any insistence on the topic is just gonna piss them off even more. Not only does it rub in the fact that they failed to win the game, but it aggravates the damage by insisting that they also failed at failing to win the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of self reflection necessary to recognize one has this problem comes only much later in life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Letting the child win. While sometimes effective as a stop gap measure it bears two dangers:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Children are quite smart. If they figure out that you've let them win they're gonna be pissed off even more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The child is not going to learn without having to face defeat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing more so it can get accustomed to defeat. Without the inner strength to withstand one defeat you can't train someone how to withstand ten of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm not a psychologist or child expert - just someone talking from his own experience. Take all of this with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Toughts:&lt;/strong&gt; In my opinion such behavior - especially if it persists - is only a symptom of an underlying problem. As I said in the beginning, it's a matter of self esteem and that can be heavily eroded over the years even by the smallest things. Do you often have arguments with the sore loser because they're stealing attention from their siblings at social events? Are they by any chance the older or middle child? Are they the less reliable one? If your answer is yes to any of these questions I suggest you go see a professional to determine &lt;strong&gt;IF&lt;/strong&gt; you are unwittingly undermining that child's self esteem. I don't want to paint you a horror picture - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;I might easily be wrong.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="1862" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T14:51:53.430" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T14:51:53.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1196" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:13:25.997" Score="4" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40276/masters-venice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Masters of Venice&lt;/a&gt;, what happen if after I have delivered a Guild Order, and upon drawing a new one, I still have enough goods to meet the newly drawn order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, I still take VP and adjust the prices of good as in my first order. However, do I count the second order as a new separate order (hence perhaps giving me more VP than the first order)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what does it meant by in the rules that &quot;You do not get to deliver the order&quot; in such cases? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T20:40:41.210" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T20:40:41.210" Title="Masters of Venice - On Delivering Guild Orders" Tags="|masters-of-venice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="823" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:18:02.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warhammer_40,000_species&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warhammer_40,000_species&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T08:18:02.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="731" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:23:53.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know this particular game but from my experiences with various card games trumps are rarely considered matching a suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most games one of the following scenarios is used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing a card of the trump suit is not considered to be &quot;following suit&quot; and forbidden as long as one still has cards of the suit that was lead. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1465/wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing a card of the trump suit is not considered to be &quot;following suit&quot; but explicitly allowed. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jass&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T08:23:53.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:35:03.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mahjong#Selected_Variations_Compared&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; table, Hong Kong, Classical (Babcock's red-book rules), and Korean variations fit your criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong.wikidot.com/rules%3akorean-overview&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; state that Korean rules don't use seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T08:35:03.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:48:48.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favourite two-player icehouse games are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koryheath.com/games/zendo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zendo&lt;/a&gt; and Volcano. Zendo is an excellent game for two players in two styles. The first is when competition isn't particularly difficult. Then the game is played normally and is functionally one person posing logic puzzles to the other. The second is the Dharma-duel which is an excellent way for both people to be &quot;master&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T08:48:48.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="859" CreationDate="2010-10-27T08:52:32.050" Score="5" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koryheath.com/games/zendo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zendo&lt;/a&gt; is an icehouse game of inductive logic. There are many different variables possible in the game (size, shape, orientation, pointing, etc...). One way of limiting rule difficulty is to limit the number of variables allowed in the rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your favourite set of variables when playing with new players? What's the best way to introduce new variables to escalate difficulty? What variables have caused more problems then they're worth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-11-04T15:39:14.067" LastActivityDate="2020-02-16T16:00:14.570" Title="What variables should a Zendo game contain if it's being played with new players?" Tags="|icehouse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="858" CreationDate="2010-10-27T09:04:09.917" Score="6" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;Necron codex says that Monolith is a skimmer that can move up to 6&quot;. Then it can fire it's weapons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that instead of firing I can move it to another 6&quot; like with any other vehicle or am I allowed to only move it 6&quot; a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="43" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T11:32:13.003" Title="Necron Monolith movement speed" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-27T09:19:34.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I'm not yet allowed to edit even CW posts, I'll just point out that &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=steward&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Steward&lt;/a&gt; is one of the best options for the &quot;trash your cards&quot; strategy: it's most of a Chapel that can also be a Silver once you don't need to trash any more. A friend of mine who loves Chapel-style decks argues cogently that it's the best card in the whole game so far for this kind of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T09:19:34.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2010-10-27T09:22:38.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting Silver on top of your deck is generally &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; than putting it in your discard pile. Later on you might not want to use the Bureaucrat every chance you get - particularly if your opponents have trashed their Estates - but early game, guaranteeing a Silver in your next hand is likely better than getting to your other purchases quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T09:22:38.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2010-10-27T09:26:50.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always found that a 3:1 port is useful, but never dominating. A 2:1 port combined with cities on that specific resource can be completely dominating. If there are three sheep hexes next to each other, then go for getting the six-sheep city and the sheep 2:1 port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T09:26:50.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-10-27T09:35:21.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The large majority of my games of Settlers, or more recently Cities and Knights, were done using a computer program to simulate the deck of 36 dice. It would randomly reshuffle at some point between 34 and 36 cards through, so you can't count rolls precisely, but it was a blissful solution to the frustration of the &quot;Settlers probability distortion field&quot;. I much prefer Settlers played with &quot;enforced probabilities&quot; like this: there's still plenty of randomness in what order the rolls come up, but you at least know that building on a 6 and an 9 you will get more resources than the person who built on 4 and 11, where in the dice version the opposite seems to happen frustratingly often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program we were using also provides for the Cities and Knights dice by colouring one number red, and giving a background colour of black (3 in 6) / yellow (1 in 6) / green (1 in 6) / blue (1 in 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can download it from &lt;a href=&quot;http://members.lycos.co.uk/qqzm/downloads/Projects/Other/SettlersDice.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://members.lycos.co.uk/qqzm/downloads/Projects/Other/SettlersDice.zip&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T09:35:21.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2010-10-27T10:10:33.523" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I have a house rule to let us choose the number of epidemics after we see what roles we get. We usually play &quot;If we have a Medic then 6, otherwise 5&quot;. That keeps the challenge ratio at a good spot in all cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T10:10:33.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2010-10-27T10:37:51.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Gnostica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gnostica&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent Icehouse game for two players, but it might fall foul of your &quot;not too complex&quot; restriction. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/icehouse/GnosticaRulesRef.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Reference&lt;/a&gt; helps, but even so, it's not really simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Binary_Homeworlds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Binary Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;. Although multiplayer Homeworlds has an explicit political element and some hidden information, the two-player version Binary Homeworlds loses those to become a pure-strategy game, with eminently simple rules, but astonishing depth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T10:37:51.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="829" CreationDate="2010-10-27T10:40:28.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Box him in and attack him elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he's boxed in, he can't gain territories around his base except by suffering heavy losses. Now he has to gain his Risk Card Territory elsewhere, where he's vulnerable. Whittle down the number of his territories, and soon he'll have to place some of his new armies outside his base to have a good chance of gaining a territory, which means those armies are not strengthening his base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="31" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T10:40:28.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-10-27T11:21:48.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is legal according to the rules.  At my table, it has been ruled as illegal (house rule).  It just feels against the spirit of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="133" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T11:21:48.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="847" CreationDate="2010-10-27T11:32:13.003" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Monolith is a verrrrrrrrrry slow skimmer -- it can only move 6&quot; per turn, but it can also ignore terrain features while moving.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the Codex handy, but I'm fairly certain the Monolith says it can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; ever move 6&quot; per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T11:32:13.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2010-10-27T12:57:18.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most basic, and easily visible, attributes are best for beginning players are the most obvious and easy to see. Color, size, basic orientation, number of pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules that involve simple combinations of these attributes are good (a koan has the Buddha nature if it has a small red piece). Rules that have too many relations going on (touching, pointing) at once are somewhat more difficult (a koan has the Buddha nature if it has a small red piece touching a large green piece). Rules that involve pip count arithmetic can be quite difficult for beginning players. Rules with an &quot;and&quot; in them (a koan has the Buddha nature if it has a red piece and a flat piece) are OK for beginning players, as long as they aren't too complicated; an &quot;or&quot; (a koan has the Buddha nature if it has a red piece or a flat piece) are more difficult and should probably be avoided at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few features that can be fairly non-obvious or hard to express for beginners (groundedness, weird orientation) and so should probably be avoided at first and introduced slowly. Also, introducing non-standard relationships (corner pointing, nesting without touching) should be avoided until people have a little more familiarity with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to simplify the game for beginners is to remove one color. With only three colors, it becomes much easier to figure out and test rules that involve colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to remember with Zendo is that it's almost always better to err on the side of a rule that's too easy rather than a rule that's too hard. It's frustrating when no one figures out the rule in Zendo. It's very easy to come up with a rule that's too hard, especially if you're trying to be &quot;clever&quot; about it (one of the more frustrating rules I've played with was &quot;the sum of yellow and blue pips must be a fibonacci number&quot;; that was especially bad, because 0, 1, 2, 3, and 5 are all fibonacci numbers, and you run out of pieces quickly when trying to test higher numbers to figure out the pattern).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T20:23:37.410" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T20:23:37.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:30:16.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41114/the-resistance&quot;&gt;La Resistance!&lt;/a&gt; This is a great Werewolf/Mafia game that runs without a moderator, and even works for 5 players! It's tense, tactical, emotionally draining, and best of all, everyone plays right up until the end of the game, no-one gets eliminated during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one drawback is that is becomes a little luck-based as the number of players reaches 8 and beyond, so at that point, we tend to switch back to Werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:30:16.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:39:02.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say... type of game, number of players, etc... are all factors... but being a &quot;good loser&quot; is a learned trait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to train him to be a good sport? Make sure he plays with respectful people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other answers are all and good... but the best way to encourage good behavior is to encourage good atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You stick your kid into a Halo server... or you stick your kid into a LAN with other church members. It's going to be obvious which group will encourage better manners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="241" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:39:02.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="487" CreationDate="2010-10-27T13:58:39.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty unlikely that a sabotage run will ever be the most &lt;em&gt;strategically sensible&lt;/em&gt; thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there could be several occasions when it'd be a &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt; thing to do. Given how it's a blatant &lt;em&gt;Star Wars&lt;/em&gt; reference, it's a good opportunity to throw around movie quotes. (In case anyone didn't realise: the War Sun is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/Expy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Expy&lt;/a&gt; of the Death Star.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the one time in 50 that it works, then it'll make for a very memorable occasion, which is a great part of a fun gaming experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T13:58:39.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:26:51.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Collaborative games (especially Pandemic, since it's quick and easy to teach) come immediately to mind. The thing is, it can teach you how to accept collective failure, but I'm not certain it has a lot to do with losing to another human being (especially a relative, with all the emotional weight they carry) in a child's mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know a grown up (not the most mature person around me, but still) who simply hates to lose, and continually &quot;raises the stakes&quot; orally during a game, so that every opponent ends up in the same competitive over-emotional state. I hate to lose to &lt;em&gt;her&lt;/em&gt;... Crucially, she hates the mere idea of &lt;em&gt;collaborative&lt;/em&gt; games and generally refuses to join them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the question inspires me is that kids are remarkably more prone to learn &lt;em&gt;by example&lt;/em&gt; than by drilling. You may want to try having adults (or more mature kids) losing games against him/her and recovering gracefully, showing their joy of having had a good time ostentatiously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="242" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T14:26:51.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:40:26.760" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to have a plan for food. You should choose one of these options and work hard towards it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Animals&lt;/strong&gt; - You want to get the first Fireplace, probably take a bunch of Sheep once they've accumulated up to about 4 and cook most of them. Sets you up well for the later game. You'll want to start breeding soon, so you'll need lots of wood for stables/pastures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bread&lt;/strong&gt; - Can be tricky if you don't have a helpful Occupation or Minor Improvement. Some people go as far as to say you should never aim to bake bread unless you have a good Occ/Imp, but I wouldn't agree. Nonetheless, generally it's vital to get the Clay Oven, and there's only one, so you need to get 1 Stone and 3 Clay ASAP. It helps a lot that you get a free bake when you build the Clay Oven - really try to have a grain on hand when you build it. Try to get grain sown as soon as possible, preferably into two or three fields.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vegetables&lt;/strong&gt; - It's hard to completely feed your family with Vegetables, unless you have the Lettuce Patch, but they can form a good sizeable chunk of a balanced diet. You definitely want a Cooking Hearth to maximise their value. It starts too late if you have to wait for the &quot;Take 1 Vegetable&quot; space, so you need a card like the Hobby Farmer or Grocer to really do this well. Others like the Potato Dibber or Window Box can make this much more effective.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Accumulators&lt;/strong&gt; - Travelling Players and Fishing are not really sustainable sources of food normally, but with a good occupation or two like Dancer or Fisherman, you can get quite a lot of food from these.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Cards&lt;/strong&gt; - With cards like Berry Picker, Sycophant or Patron+Bookshelf, you can obtain quite a lot of your food from unconventional sources. You're not likely to be fighting other people for it, which is good, but you will have to get animals and vegetables at some point to get a decent score, so you can't completely neglect those aspects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T14:40:26.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="795" CreationDate="2010-10-27T14:58:04.450" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Gin, you don't get any hard information on what is in your opponent's hand until the hand is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you have to make use of whatever information you can get.  The primary source of information is the discards.  To be successful you need to keep track of both&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What your opponent discarded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What you discarded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pay attention to both suits and the number of each card.  For example, if your opponent discarded the 5 of clubs, he is most likely not interested in 5's or mid range clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observe your opponent, if he usually plays fast but pauses even briefly to consider the jack of diamonds you just tossed then he most likely has several cards around that.  A couple examples of what he might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-K of diamonds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sets of 9's and 10's but he has diamonds of both and could make another run (like 7-8-9-10 of clubs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps from previous discards and pickups you could narrow down the options as to what he might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T04:27:06.267" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T04:27:06.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-27T15:09:24.140" Score="12" ViewCount="1020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Werewolves, if you're not aware, is a group game played with hidden roles. It's also best played with a fairly large group -- 10, 15 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During various stages of the night, people need to do certain things. However, both noise and movement can give certain things away. (Reaching across a table, or walking across a room, to flip a card, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution we've come up with is to play &lt;em&gt;very loud&lt;/em&gt; music during those times. This helps to mask a lot of the secret play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless, however, you're in a very large space, too, you can often feel the person near you move regardless of how loud the music is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone have any good ideas to such issues with this game? I realize it's also up to the players to &quot;play fair&quot; -- otherwise there's no point. But you also don't want to be accidentally handed the answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T06:58:45.007" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:54:46.417" Title="How do you configure the people playing Werewolves to not give each other away?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2010-10-27T15:16:26.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use an ipad (&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/werewolf-curse-of-pandora/id363976892?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of Pandora&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="72" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T15:16:26.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="834" CreationDate="2010-10-27T15:17:41.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple guesses, I'm not sure either matches everything you listed though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12237/oil-the-great-adventure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oil: The Great Adventure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4p7B7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22614/petroleo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Petróleo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1u5Kf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple GeekLists may have what you are looking for if I missed the mark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/14564/lets-play-the-oil-game-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Let's Play the Oil War&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/42079/oil-exploration-games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oil Exploration Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T15:17:41.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2010-10-27T15:46:01.453" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played this recently and the group I played with had established the practice of having everyone repeatedly smack their hand on the table while heads are down during the night phase. The table smacking creates enough noise and vibration to mask movements. The only caveat is that people need to remember to keep smacking while they point with the other hand. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T15:46:01.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:01:03.883" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Example is critical.  Lose to the child gracefully yourself.  Teach them by example to say thanks for the game when they win. (Graceful winning is the flip side of graceful losing, and I always found it much harder to do; I like gloating, dammit.  I have to consciously suppress that.)  And, importantly, demonstrate that it's to the child's benefit to lose politely.  Offer to play again when they lose (or to play something else, or do something else fun) - unless they're handling it badly, in which case go back to work.  The lesson &#xA;is: if you're no fun to play with, you don't get to play as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try playing any fast-play game repeatedly.  It makes it easy for you to demonstrate &#xA;the point; if the child knows you're playing ten in a row for three minutes each, it lowers the stakes and makes it easy to learn the principle.  Try (depending on the age of the child) something like Icetowers. (Several other Icehouse games come to mind, but Icetowers is very fast and easy to play, yet hard to win reliably, so it's a good example.)&#xA;James Ernest of Cheapass games is a good designer for this sort of thing also; try Lightspeed or &quot;Before I Kill You, Mr. Bond&quot; (sadly now &quot;The Totally Renamed Spy Game&quot; due to copyright issues...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally cooperative games may not help, but team games or group cooperative games can.  And several-on-one games (Space Crusade?) can be good - but put the child on the team, not the solo slot.  (Learning to lose gracefully when one of your team messes up is another key skill anyway.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad losing - in children and adults - should be handled like any other temper tantrum.&#xA;(We have one aggressive player and bad-tempered loser in our adult group - but he &lt;em&gt;tries&lt;/em&gt; to keep himself under control and is great fun to play with, so we let it pass.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T16:01:03.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6772" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:03:50.400" Score="6" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father in law is saying that his oncle's old solid wood Crokinole board outmatch the cheap cardboard game he actually got. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never played on this solid wood board and before upgrading to a better board, I'm wondering if anyone who tested many different board types could detail how the playing surface (cardboard vs lacquered vs solid wood) affect the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T16:09:18.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T20:34:11.647" Title="Does the Crokinole playing surface material really affect the gameplay?" Tags="|crokinole|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:09:57.723" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=blackmarket&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Market promo card&lt;/a&gt; may give you some of what you're hoping for. If a Black Market is one of your 10 Kingdom cards, it allows vast diversity in the actual Kingdom cards in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHUmD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black Market: Reveal the top 3 cards of the Black Market deck.  You may buy one of them immediately. Put the unbought cards on the bottom of the Black Market deck in any order.  (Before the game, make a Black Market deck out of one copy of each Kingdom card not in the supply.)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T03:14:01.593" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T03:14:01.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:36:56.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seat people far enough away so that they can't feel each other move.  Either get people on the floor  or in individual chairs.  If you have kitchen chairs and enough space this can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to have the judge walk around the room and point at people for the werewolves.  Their werewolves can nod their heads on who they want their next victim to be.  This way the judge is the only one doing the pointing movement.  If you have everyone drumming their hands as Todd suggested, you should have a fairly easy way to have the werewolves secretly select victims without giving each other away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T16:36:56.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:37:51.203" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think part of the answer is that you have to play the same games with different styles of game play (see below, speed games). We all succumb, at one time or another, to the min-max problem. Said another way, in many games, there actually is an optimal solution that can be calculated decisively at certain points (especially near the end). But calculating it in ones head can be a slow process for some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution (in my opinion) in those situations is to just work with the player. You'll all learn more about the game and be able to make the decision faster next time. They'll have the satisfaction of knowing they scored the best they could (or at least others agreed with them). In fact, if done right, &lt;em&gt;everyone&lt;/em&gt; can have a maximum score. (Doing this gets much harder as the number of players increases -- consider it a group challenge. And, recall, it's just a game and it'd be silly for someone to win or lose because of a mere accident or true mistake.) (Some games are well suited towards this style of group play. Highly recommended with the significant other, too. ;) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the type of game, mix in play of &quot;speed games&quot; where everyone has to take fast moves. Compare to a 2 minute speed chess game -- it's  a completely different game when played that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can balance full, thoughtful, strategy play with intense, and sometimes silly, action play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone is the only one affected by the &quot;rules of speed&quot; they'll feel picked on or just won't have as much fun. Everyone, at some time or another, probably takes a long turn. Another solution is to just have a limited number of &quot;long turns&quot; -- this way, the slow thinker or optimizing player can plan for one turn (or so) a game and the rest of the group can go refill their drinks and snacks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as others have said, unless it's chess, game familiarity will almost always speed everyone along. Give new players a chance. Play &quot;open discussion&quot; games. Open it up so the &quot;slow&quot; player can ask for advice and receive fair, honest answers. If it's a constant problem, the person is probably just unsure of their moves and boosting their confidence will go a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="243" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T16:37:51.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:41:11.290" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did - though it may be too late for some:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never, ever just &lt;strong&gt;let&lt;/strong&gt; my son win while he was growing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was not always easy. For a while, for example, I could always count on him to side with his mother when we played &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt;. It was OK, she was going to win anyhow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, he would score a win - usually in luck based games - and he would be congratulated. But I &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; told him when he played well, thanked him for the game, and helped him after the game was over by discussing what went wrong and what he might have done better. And I pointed out when he made good moves or decisions, during the game, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, he got a lot of practice losing - and what I hoped was a good model for a gracious winner, too. He also got an &lt;strong&gt;absolute certain knowledge&lt;/strong&gt; that when he won, he deserved it. Nobody can take a win away from him by saying, &quot;Well, I just &lt;strong&gt;let&lt;/strong&gt; you win that one,&quot; because it simply never happens. So now, when he regularly kicks my butt, he knows he did it legitimately, and he usually models excellent gracious winner behavior for me when he does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T16:41:11.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="834" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:47:21.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;With help from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/834/whats-the-name-of-this-board-game-about-middle-orient-oil-war/868#868&quot;&gt;Pat Ludwig's answer&lt;/a&gt; I found out the right game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1958/the-game-of-nations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Game of Nations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fy6QR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/38CIC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game probably was release to exploit the first oil big crisis in 1972. Good to know that the world changed :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T16:53:17.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="194" CreationDate="2010-10-27T16:54:57.307" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5709422#5709422&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try this...clear wallpaper, avaliable at any home improvement store and even Walmart, if you're lucky enough to find it there; about $10 a roll and the roll will do the tiles and more. The clear wallpaper will have to be cut after application (it's self adhesive), will have to be trimmed with an craft knife. Hope this helps. I'll be trying this on my set and I've used the clear wallpaper on other games over the years to protect them and 20 years later a lot of them are still in mint condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warning, don't buy the frosted clear wallpaper, you can't see through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't tried it myself, it looks like it might be worth a try.  Maybe on a cheaper game first, so that if it doesn't work, you haven't screwed up you're favorite game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will go to the local Fred Meyer today and see if they have something like this, and if so, try it out myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.contactpaper.net/clear-contact-paper.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clear contact paper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2021-06-18T14:20:41.010" LastActivityDate="2021-06-18T14:20:41.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="829" CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:07:11.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Force him to come towards you and leave the safety of his base.  Then he's either forced to attack territory outside of his base if he hopes to continue to gain Risk Cards and grow his armies, or stop collecting risk cards altogether.  Also, if you can gain and hold choke points on the map against him, you force him to seek those cards in other parts of the map.  If he continues to become to powerful, seek an alliance with the other players to cut him down to size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T17:07:11.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="829" CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:15:20.590" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Convince the other players of the power of his tactics and the need to 'break his continent' before he 'runs away with the game'.  Lead the coalition against his evil ways.  Use this coalition to mask your own strategy, as you set yourself up to emerge most powerful from the ashes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Risk is all about controlling the perceptions of the rest of the table.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T17:15:20.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:34:34.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh! I was thinking about this for a while, and couldn't come up with many good games; I can't believe I missed the family of Icehouse games &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Zarcana/rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zarcana&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Gnostica/GnosticaRules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gnostica&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Andy/Games/ZarkCity/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zark City&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zarcana was, I believe, the second game ever designed with Icehouse pieces (or at least one of the very early ones after Icehouse itself). It is played with an Icehouse stash per person and a deck of Tarot cards, with each card having particular powers. At the beginning of the game, 9 cards are laid out in a 3x3 grid. As you play, you try to take control of the cards with your Icehouse pieces; some cards are worth more than others, and you can use the powers of cards you occupy or cards in your hand. Some of the powers, however, involve being able to play more cards, which must be connected to existing cards; or destroy cards, leaving an empty space with a power vacuum. Thus, a changing network of cards emerges, and people develop their own islands or peninsulas of cards to defend from other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zarcana, as an early game design effort, had some problems. The rules were complex and fiddly, without the kind of consistency that allows them to be easily remembered. You had to refer to a rules reference all the time to figure out the power of the cards, or add stickers to help remind you. There wasn't much balance to the game; some cards were so much better than others that if you couldn't start on them you'd be at a significant disadvantage. And games would wind up with each person building out their own little territory, without much interaction from other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A group of players and designers (including John Cooper, the designer of Zarcana) decided to fix Zarcana, and redesigned it into Gnostica. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.playagaingames.com/games/zarcana_to_gnostica/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;history of how and why they developed Gnostica&lt;/a&gt; is a great read for anyone interested in game design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gnostica became Zarcana on speed. Gnostica is more aggressive, interactive, strategic, consistent, clean, exciting, and fun. We would never want to go back and play Zarcana anymore. In comparison, Zarcana was too stodgy, tactical, inconsistent, fiddly, random, and difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gnostica is much more of a gamer's game, with more strategic possibilities, more intense competition, and streamlined rules. Not everyone was a fan of the redesign, however. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andrew_Looney&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Andy Looney&lt;/a&gt;, of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Looney Labs&lt;/a&gt; fame, happens to like games that are somewhat more random, chaotic, and quirky, with quicker turns and lighter gameplay (as you might guess from his most popular game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;). He wrote &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Andy/Games/IPreferZarcana.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a great essay on why he prefers Zarcana&lt;/a&gt;, which is worth a read to help figure out which game you will prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to promote the 3HOUSE bundle, Andy Looney &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WhatsOld/2008/WN.02.21.08.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;developed&lt;/a&gt; a game that uses similar mechanics of controlling cards on a changing grid called Zark City. Zark City is a classic Andy Looney design; simpler, quicker playing, and more accessible than Zarcana or Gnostica, with a larger amount of luck. It uses ordinary playing cards, instead of Tarot cards, which also helps make it more accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Zarcana family of three games, all related and all using Icehouse pieces, involve a connected network of cards with different powers, which change throughout the game, and which players control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T17:34:34.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="903" CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:45:15.780" Score="17" ViewCount="30589" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature with Infect and Lifelink puts poison counters on a player, does the controlling player gain life? Do all abilities that trigger on combat damage still occur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link to an official ruling would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="140" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-13T03:32:23.680" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T03:32:23.680" Title="How does Infect interact with Lifelink?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2010-10-27T17:51:29.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another family of games, that do involve constructing a network but in a slightly different way, would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1017/fresh-fish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fresh Fish&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludism.org/ppwiki/AlienCity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alien City&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20623/alien-city&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Fresh Fish, so I won't try to describe it, but Alien City has been described as an adaptation of it, as they share some of the same basic mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Alien City, a game played with a Piecpack set and an Icehouse set, you build and claim certain buildings, while being required to leave a connected road network between them. At the end of the game, you score based on how many buildings of different colors are within two spaces, along the road, of your buildings, multiplied by the distance, along the road, to the nearest building of the same color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These games are in some way the inverse of the mechanics described in the question; you are not building and controlling a network of pieces, but you are building buildings and the network is the negative space between them, that emerges as the pieces are placed. It's a fascinating mechanic, and it makes for a real brain-burner of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T17:51:29.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9585" CreationDate="2010-10-27T18:18:35.177" Score="5" ViewCount="13182" Body="&lt;p&gt;This book states that &quot;a player who is furiten, is not allowed to win on a discard.&quot; What does furiten mean, and how does it affect the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T12:17:25.880" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T19:26:44.500" Title="What does it mean to be furiten?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2010-10-27T18:23:10.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to consider that people &quot;giving themselves away&quot; is part of the game, and an important source of clues for others. Advanced players will even sometimes &quot;wrongly&quot; emit noises or make gestures to confuse others into thinking they are what they're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My policy is that players who draw unwanted attention to themselves, be it werewolves pointing to their next victim, or simply flipping their card for checking what they should have in memory, should suffer the consequences (if their opponents pay attention...). The game is fast enough that this will serve as a lesson for next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only player that should care about not giving clues away is the Moderator. I try to take great care not to talk to people directly, sliding the head around all directions while speaking so that it's not easy to triangulate werewolves or the Seer, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="242" LastEditorUserId="242" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T19:14:26.150" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T19:14:26.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2010-10-27T18:25:48.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong.wikidot.com/furiten&quot;&gt;According to the mahjong wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Furiten in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong.wikidot.com/rules%3ajapanese-modern-overview&quot;&gt;riichi mahjong&lt;/a&gt; is a state in which a player has discarded a tile that would have otherwise completed his hand. A player who is furiten cannot win on an opponent's discard, but can only win by self-drawing the needed tile. This rule is the crux of riichi mahjong. This is why all discards and melded sets are organized to show ownership the tiles discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T18:25:48.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="829" CreationDate="2010-10-27T18:30:56.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play with the rules variant (which is in the manual in at least some versions of RISK) that tones down the trade-ins for armies.  Instead of the trade-ins escalating by 5 in the endgame, they simply go up by two every time (4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the other ways of obtaining armies more relatively important and downplays the importance of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T04:53:08.780" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T04:53:08.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1912" CreationDate="2010-10-27T18:40:36.227" Score="8" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many games, especially ancient ones, have their own set of manners. For instance, Go players bow before the game and greet each other (&quot;onegaishimasu&quot;) and play the first stone in the upper right corner [etc].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something similar in mahjong, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T19:28:14.763" LastActivityDate="2022-06-11T14:46:12.670" Title="What manners are specific to mahjong?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="892" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:03:31.097" Score="20" ViewCount="16638" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard rules for Trivial Pursuit say that in order to win, the player must collect all six wedges from the special category spaces, then proceed to the center and answer a final question in a category selected by the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, however (and especially if more than 3 players/teams are participating) it takes way to long for the game to end with a winner this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other set of &quot;universally accepted&quot; (or not) rules for Trivial Pursuit to ensure shorter games? I've seen (for example) proceeding to the center with less that 6 wedges, or specifying an ending time (with a &quot;penalty shootout&quot; if there is a tie) but none of them seem all that satisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="248" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T14:50:28.117" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T14:50:28.117" Title="Rules for a &quot;short to medium length&quot; game?" Tags="|house-rules|trivial-pursuit|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="893" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:12:12.100" Score="6" ViewCount="5485" Body="&lt;p&gt;This book states that &quot;If a claimed tile is not taken within the next two opponents’ turns, i.e. before another two discards has been made, the player has a dead hand.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a dead hand, and how does it affect the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T11:58:00.740" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T00:46:49.197" Title="What is a &quot;dead hand&quot;?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:16:51.143" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea if any of these are &quot;universally accepted&quot;, as I haven't consulted with the rest of the universe, but I have seen a few variations on ending the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A large number of people I've played with don't like getting back to the center for the final question, because you're basically holding out for a lucky roll to get back to the middle.  Instead, once you have your sixth pie wedge, you immediately are asked the final question; if you don't answer correctly, on successive turns you get another final question, no moving required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If we want a shorter game, we've altered the number of pieces required to win, anywhere from 4-6.  It's been pretty satisfactory for us.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make things a little more interesting to prevent people from avoiding their least-favorite category, we'll sometimes randomly select one of the six color wedges from a pile -- you must have this piece in your collection to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan of a time limit, because slower players can make the game end prematurely by (intentionally or not) dragging out the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T19:16:51.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:19:11.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dead hand&quot; has a few different meanings. It's hard to tell just from that one sentence, but it sounds like the one you're describing is the case where somebody forgets to take a tile, so their hand ends up short tiles (it's also a dead hand if the player forgets to discard and thus has too many tiles). A dead hand cannot be used to win the round, but the player still takes their turns as normal until the round ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dead hand&quot; also sometimes refers to a declared mahjong that turns out to be invalid (like above, that player cannot win anymore, and play continues), or a round where all tiles are drawn from the wall and nobody makes mahjong, but neither seems to be what you're referring to in this case&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T19:19:11.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="906" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:24:03.910" Score="8" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once an end condition is reached, I like the house rule where you play until just before the starting player.  It seems more fair to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any counterarguments?  It seems like the game designers have had ample opportunity to amend the rules or suggest this alternative in one of the expansions, and haven't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T21:07:53.163" Title="Are there disadvantages to the house rule that you always end before the starting player?" Tags="|house-rules|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="883" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:25:41.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to both. The FAQ for &lt;em&gt;Scars of Mirrodin&lt;/em&gt; states that creatures with infect deal damage to players in the form of poison counters; that's still dealing damage, so lifelink and other abilities that trigger on combat damage take place as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T19:25:41.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:36:17.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8462/why-couldnt-this-hand-win-with-ron&quot;&gt;Why couldn&amp;#39;t this hand win with ron?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, I try to Ron, but get prompted that I cannot due to a &quot;missing multiplier&quot;. What does this mean, and how can I avoid it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: The marked tile was just discarded, but I can't Ron.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TDilU.png&quot; alt=&quot;img&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: A quick explanation why this question is on-topic on this site instead of at gaming.stackexchange.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact term &quot;no multiplier&quot; is certainly specific to this implementation, but I believe the question applies to the game in general. This message does not appear to be a &quot;bug&quot; or &quot;error message&quot; but a valid notification that my hand is missing something. Maybe (I'm guessing here) it should just read &quot;Your hand does not have enough yaku yet!&quot; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T22:56:31.490" Title="Why can't I win due to &quot;missing multiplier&quot;?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|yaku|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-09-26T22:46:23.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:39:32.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to exploit this, is that you can move on another turn (for example a wolf can move on the seers turn). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is a vital role for the game master. I have seen games ruined by adressing the witch as he while there was only male player alive. &#xA;A good game master messes with several cards if a role has to be shown. Talks in a random direction (not to the player she talks to). And walks around the table touching several players (if they are seated close to eachother).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fun part of the game. People give themself away by small hints. And you can take advantage of it. I was once (as a wolf) trusted by another player because I was sitting next to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T19:39:32.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="883" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:40:41.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creatures with Infect still deal damage, so all abilities that trigger* (such as Lifelink) still function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a natural consequence of rule &lt;strong&gt;119.3b&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;119.3d&lt;/strong&gt; (and others, like 702.87x, omitted here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt to a player by a source&#xA;  with infect causes that player to get&#xA;  that many poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt to a creature by a source with wither and/or infect causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20101001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both Infect and Lifelink occur as a consequence of damage being dealt, thus it follows that &lt;em&gt;any other damage triggered* ability&lt;/em&gt; would also occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/234/alexc&quot;&gt;AlexC&lt;/a&gt; points out, the actually phrase &quot;trigger&quot; can be tricky.  Think &quot;caused to happen, through any of MTG's myriad rules.&quot;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T03:40:52.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="846" CreationDate="2010-10-27T19:54:52.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all the players are new, then I think the game includes some sample rules on cards. That doesn't work if some of the players remember the sample rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule of thumb for creating rules in this kind of game is to either combine two dead simple rules (No blue pieces and more than three pieces), or to have one slightly sophisticated rule that always applies (the top of each piece must be at the same height or above the tops of all pieces with fewer pips).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course new players have to be reminded that their rules are always harder than they think they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T19:54:52.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="871" CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:00:59.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think solid wood with a wax finish is the best. Basically, the rougher it is, the less finesse you can use. If it's really rough, then the movement starts to be less predictable. Of course, the surface of your cookies is also part of the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T20:00:59.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:26:20.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The group I regularly play with has a tradition of softly stomping your feet with your heads down.  Built into this is the opportunity for misdirection, which is all part of the game.  For instance, stopping your stomping when the magician is called to wake up, when you are in fact a werewolf.  I completely fell for it once.  ONCE. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="morganpdx" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T20:26:20.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="883" CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:28:07.977" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the creature's controller will gain life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infect and Lifelink are both abilities that modify how damage is dealt. They're not exclusive in any way; they just mean that the damage dealt has some effects different to what damage normally does. They can happily coexist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;119.3b Damage dealt to a player by a source with &lt;strong&gt;infect&lt;/strong&gt; causes that player to get that many poison counters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  119.3f Damage dealt by a source with &lt;strong&gt;lifelink&lt;/strong&gt; causes that source's controller to gain that much life, &lt;em&gt;in addition to the damage's other results.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage is still damage in every way. So it'll still trigger an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=ophidian+eye&quot;&gt;Ophidian Eye&lt;/a&gt;, get doubled by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205268&quot;&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/a&gt;, get prevented by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=132101&quot;&gt;Samite Healer&lt;/a&gt; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Scars of Mirrodin&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/downloads/EN_MTGSOM_FAQ_20100922.rtf&quot;&gt;FAQ document&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage from a source with infect is damage in all respects. &lt;strong&gt;If the source with infect also has lifelink, damage dealt by that source also causes its controller to gain that much life.&lt;/strong&gt; Damage from a source with infect can be prevented or redirected. Abilities that trigger on damage being dealt will trigger if a source with infect deals damage, if appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T20:28:07.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="905" CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:41:34.410" Score="1" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of only two hands that do not consist of 4 sets and a pair in riichi mahjong: Seven Pairs, and Thirteen Orphans. Are there more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T15:18:52.300" Title="Which hands do not consist of sets and a pair?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="904" CreationDate="2010-10-27T20:55:15.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.msoworld.com/mindzine/news/orient/mah_jong/overview_special.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt; I would say that those are the only ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T20:55:15.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="894" CreationDate="2010-10-27T21:07:53.163" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game with all the expansions has 3 ending conditions, all of which require you to keep an eye on the number of cards remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those endings are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Provinces have been bought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any 3 (2-4 players) or 4 (5-6 players) piles have been bought.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(New in Prosperity) All Colonies have been bought. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short version:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It would discourage players from buying the last card to end the game if it's not a Colony or Province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long version:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The idea is that you watch the piles as they go down and adjust your strategy to compensate.  For example, if I think my score is good enough to win, it's to my advantage to buy out the last pile needed to end the game, even if it's something I don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requiring the game to keep going around the table after that would likely discourage me from buying said card; I would rather buy more higher-point cards, hoping that someone else will end the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T21:07:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-10-27T21:08:17.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get lots of victory cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy lots of victory cards, such as a Duke(I)/Duchy(B) combination, or Gardens(B).&#xA;Since this heavily dilutes your deck, it only works with action cards that allow you to get cards without having many useful cards, such as Ironworks(I) or Remodel(B) or Workshop(B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="172" LastEditDate="2010-10-27T23:07:04.813" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T23:07:04.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-27T21:22:46.423" Score="6" ViewCount="7063" Body="&lt;p&gt;Made hands are very rare in mahjong. Is there a table that lists the possibilities of starting with a complete hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-29T11:40:37.137" LastActivityDate="2023-06-03T14:24:17.543" Title="In Mahjong , what is the chance to get a hand that allows a player to finish on their first turn?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="914" CreationDate="2010-10-27T21:29:50.130" Score="10" ViewCount="6416" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many classic board and card games have had their strategy studied, formalized, and &quot;digitized,&quot; for lack of a better word. For instance, there are a plethora of computer programs that can analyze or play a game of Chess, Backgammon, Connect 4, various games of poker, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any computer AI program for Axis and Allies? Ideally, I'd like to be able to setup certain scenarios and then watch the computer play against itself to learn new strategies. Also, a single player mode would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a (now serious outdated) &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00000K4CS&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies computer game&lt;/a&gt;, which I owned several years ago. This game had a single player option, meaning you could play against the computer, but the AI was very scripted and weak and the game lacked the ability to setup a scenario and let the computer play it out  (from what I remember).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T16:10:40.177" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T16:10:40.177" Title="Computer AI programs for Axis and Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-27T22:25:08.400" Score="7" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to run a Cripple Mr Onion tournament (the gambling variant of the game, but not for money), but I have never run a tournament before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I structure this tournament?  What do I, as an organizer need to know to have this tournament go off successfully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm willing to use and adapt a tournament format for similar card and/or board games but I need to know where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The game requires at least two players, but not more than seven&lt;/em&gt;. So probably six or seven to a table. In my own (small) experience playing the game (and I've never played the gambling variant myself), it works better with a larger number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no real idea how many players to expect. There'll be a couple of hundred at the Irish Discworld Convention, but no doubt the tournament will clash with other events. And some people there won't be interested. It might be two or three tables. Perhaps more. Perhaps just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules of the game (pdf): &lt;a href=&quot;http://filedump.xn--es-zka.info/Cripple%20Mr%20Onion.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cripple Mr Onion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="260" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2019-02-07T21:47:42.700" LastActivityDate="2019-02-07T21:47:42.700" Title="What is the best tournament format for Cripple Mr Onion?" Tags="|tournament|cripple-mr-onion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-27T22:30:21.750" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great bar games we play regularly: Icetowers (and other fast simple Icehouse games; the smaller pieces are easy to lose but also cheap to replace), Apples to Apples (the default party game choice), and Nanofictionary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a little table space, pretty-much-anything-by-Cheapass-Games, but especially Big Idea (one of the few card games that actually &lt;em&gt;improves&lt;/em&gt; when you're slightly drunk), Give Me the Brain (and it's sequel Lord of the Fries), and Lightspeed.  Button Men is golden; you can &lt;em&gt;wear&lt;/em&gt; the game and you only need enough table to roll five dice.  Gloom is also a favourite, if you're not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; worried about stains on the cards (which would be appropriate, anyway...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T22:30:21.750" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-27T22:37:58.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your requirements. Uno may be a terrible or a brilliant choice, depending on what you want. There's little strategy: it's something to do with your hands while you chat with a bunch of friends. That means the gameplay tends to be fast, so turns come around fairly quickly. And, playing in a large bunch, there's always the chance that the +4 cards go around the table, and someone ends up picking up 16 cards, which is always sweet (when it's not you). When the +2s go around, the pick ups can go into the twenties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for clever strategy games, you don't want Uno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uno works well with 5-9ish people, and perhaps more, and also works well with 2 people (though that's an entirely different game, really). I find it awkward with three or four people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="260" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T22:37:58.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:12:30.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not that I am aware of, but you could try using the popular &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Combat Simulator calculator&lt;/a&gt; as a starting point. It's html &amp;amp; javascript, so it's all visible.  It's not in the format you are looking for, exactly, but has a logical starting point &amp;amp; it's been maintained by someone who clearly loves the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in hand, I would try looking under the hood of your old PC game to see if the AI is customizable.  The Age of Empires series had a really excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://aoe.heavengames.com/siege/AIandPER/AIandPERIndex.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AI system&lt;/a&gt;, all based on relatively simple text files. It wasn't documented in the game, if I recall correctly (it's been a few years), but a really rich community of AI developers grew up around it.  You may find that there is some way to customize the clunky AI in the game to get it to do what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://triplea.sourceforge.net/mywiki/TripleA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TripleA&lt;/a&gt;.  It's a free Java-based turn based strategy game based on Axis and Allies.  Exactly how close it's AI is to the real Axis &amp;amp; Allies rule set, I don't know. Sadly, documentation is spotty, but there is a fan site with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aaazone.com/newbie-guide.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;newbie guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T23:12:30.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:15:52.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I loved &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Reversi&quot;&gt;Othello&lt;/a&gt; as a child. And still do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="260" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T23:15:52.680" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="908" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:24:35.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure I know what a 'made hand' is.  Are you asking what are the odds of being dealt the Nine Gates?  If yes, the odds are about 5000:1 in a 136 tile set. This page has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://netvigator.com/~tarot/Mahjong/mj_com05.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;combinatorial treatment&lt;/a&gt; of the 13 orphans vs the Nine Gates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="97" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T23:24:35.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:47:33.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like playing &quot;Irish Dice&quot; (for lack of a better name - I was introduced at an Irish pub).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal on three rolls of five dice is to get the lowest score - all sides have face value except 3s which are the wild/super side worth 0 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make it more interesting by putting a dollar on every round (though I wouldn't know anything about that from personal experience).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2010-10-27T23:47:33.967" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-27T23:50:47.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another set of rules I have seen is to count three correct answers (with no more than one wrong in the sequence) on the same color as counting for a pie piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could answer correctly blue, pink, green, blue; incorrectly blue; correctly orange, blue and get the blue piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requires a bit of accounting overhead, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another alternative is to set a number of total correct and total per category correct - perhaps 30 total, and at least 4 in each category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2010-10-29T14:12:23.827" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T14:12:23.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:01:12.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Senku/&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peg_solitaire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peg Solitaire&lt;/a&gt; is a good game to players of every age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T01:01:12.510" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="926" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:06:44.883" Score="30" ViewCount="17998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly following the rules of Monopoly will show that just because you have the cash to out-right buy hotels for your properties, you cannot if there are not enough houses in the bank to support an even build (ie, there are less than 12 in the bank for a 3 property street).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, when tearing-down hotels, there need to be an appropriate number of houses available to support the even tear-down (at least four houses to remove one hotel, and 8 more if you want to remove all of the improvements on a 3 property street).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if you cannot tear-down your hotels because there are fewer than four houses in the bank (or fewer than 12 for the whole street)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario is not that far-fetched - a property group has been fully improved, some large rent is now due, and the player needs to recoup the sunk cost of their improvements to pay the rent due.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they cannot tear-down the hotels, they cannot pay the rent. But property cannot be traded between players if improvements are on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the appropriate resolution to this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T04:49:05.740" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T18:16:25.870" Title="What happens when you need to tear-down a hotel but no houses are in the bank in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="925" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:17:42.077" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the Bank has no houses to sell,&#xA;  players wishing to build must wait for some player to return or sell&#xA;  his/her houses to the Bank before building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Houses and hotels may be sold back to the Bank at any time for&#xA;  one-half the price paid for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All hotels on one color-group may be sold at once, or they may be&#xA;  sold one house at a time (one hotel equals five houses), evenly, in&#xA;  reverse of the manner in which they were erected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that if it is NOT possible to break up a hotel into four houses, you must sell all hotels at once, at half-face value for the entire purchase of each hotel and four houses, thus satisfying the condition &quot;all hotels on one color-group may be sold at once&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T01:29:25.180" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T01:29:25.180" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="949" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:29:56.033" Score="11" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of different Carcassonne expansions available and I'm curious if anyone has any insight in to telling if combining them may break game play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently we've been using &lt;em&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;Cult, Siege and Creativity&lt;/em&gt;. It seems to have drastically changed the balance so that it's very dangerous to try and build a city of any size. Most cities end up being 2-3 tiles, putting a ton of them in the field. Sieged cities make being a farmer even more attractive. Last game, every big meeple was a farmer and three players had 5 meeples each in one large field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any general advice on combining expansions? Are we just experiencing different game play thanks to different tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T14:34:46.347" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T18:15:45.877" Title="Can Expansion Combining &quot;Break&quot; the Game?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="265" CreationDate="2010-10-28T01:44:48.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that rule to be incorrect, but interesting. You must hit an enemy disc, but you can hit a friendly disc first to make a combo shot.  It's higher risk because you can lose multiple discs. Check the WCC webpage for official rules.  Also the one cheek rule is standard here in clubs in Ontario as well as not being able to move/shift your chair in any way once play begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Brian" LastEditorUserId="19851" LastEditDate="2019-08-29T17:50:36.003" LastActivityDate="2019-08-29T17:50:36.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="988" CreationDate="2010-10-28T02:17:58.570" Score="5" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Steam&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4098&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Age of Steam&lt;/a&gt; provide a finite set of tiles, and the rules explicitly mention that if a certain type of tile runs out then it is effectively unavailable anymore -- unless a tile comes back after being replaced by another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule seems quite artificial, as in real life there shouldn't be any problems creating any kind of track as the train line is being built. The original designer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/3099003#3099003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Martin Wallace himself wrote that this constraint was artificial&lt;/a&gt; and tried to create a &quot;friendly&quot; set of tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do agree that it is currently part of the game and I sometimes use it myself to get rid of some particular tiles so that my opponents may not use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some expansion maps (e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/game/25487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sun&lt;/a&gt;) were designed with the limited set of tracks in mind, as an important aspect of that map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However for most maps I sometimes wonder if we could just forget this limitation, provided that there's a way to create missing tiles as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do you think? What would be the pros and cons of relaxing this rule. Also, how would you implement an &quot;infinite&quot; supply of tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T20:56:26.263" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T20:56:26.263" Title="Would Steam/Age of Steam benefit from a non-constrained set of tiles" Tags="|house-rules|steam|age-of-steam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="563" CreationDate="2010-10-28T03:16:28.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1870&lt;/strong&gt; is my current choice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XtmXg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played a bunch once or twice, but 1856 and 1830 are the only other ones I've played extensively.  All comparisons here are to 1830.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Private companies seem less important (can't specify why, it just feels that way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shares have several built in protections to maintain the price, therefore the finance game is less dangerous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No double O tiles (I find these are somewhat confusing to new players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small cities can be upgraded (people don't like being locked into a tile they laid on turn 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destination hexes give a default goal for laying track&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can play 2 yellow tiles/turn (building is easier for new players, here they get to do more of it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one major downside for beginners though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time to play is noticeably longer than 1830&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T03:16:28.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-28T03:19:01.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family started with the house rule of allowing kids to earn pie pieces anytime they answered a question.  There was no need to be on the special category spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on, that turned into a general use house rule if a shorter game was needed.  Or, most commonly, after playing for a while we'd declare &quot;everything counts&quot; just to finish up the game quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T03:19:01.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-28T04:09:04.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8098/jungle-speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jungle Speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="l0de" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T22:33:15.587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T22:33:15.587" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2010-10-28T04:50:14.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played with Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, Builders &amp;amp; Traders, Princess &amp;amp; Dragon, Tower, and River all in play simultaneously.  It didn't break the game, but neither was it really more fun in any way - it got very bogged down in mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick your favorites and combine 'em!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T04:50:14.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="951" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:07:57.780" Score="32" ViewCount="10618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear with me here.  In Dominion: Prosperity you can play King's Court and choose another King's Court as the target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z9A23.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;King&amp;#39;s Court&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are clear on the basics of what happens here: you pick three cards and play each one three times.  My question is when, precisely, the picking happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all three of those cards must be picked before executing any of them, it's a whole lot different from if you choose the cards one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Up-front&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must choose all three cards before playing card #1 three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One-at-a-time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose card #1 and play it three times, then choose and play card #2, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played it one-at-a-time since that seemed like it made a little more sense (and was more fun too).  If the first card you choose draws any cards at all, you have a high probability of picking up another action card to be the second target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anybody know for sure which method is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2017-05-21T02:27:48.367" Title="When you King's Court a King's Court, when must you pick the three target cards?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:12:50.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In almost every game, when the rules do not specify otherwise, it is safe to assume that the designers meant for effects to be handled in a stack-like fashion. M:tG codified this in their 6E rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, the effect of the first King's Court is to pick another card and play it three times. Each of those three plays is a unique event, as if two more copies of the card appeared in your hand to go with two extra actions. You will fully execute each of those three events before the next, each of them involving picking a card and playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:12:50.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:17:03.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One step towards implementing a wider set of tiles, without adding pieces, would be to allow players to swap tiles on the board if it doesn't change their top face. In a small but significant fraction of situations, the tile you need exists as the unused bottom side of a tile already on the table. Within the rules, I have encountered at least one scenario in which the game outcome was changed by my being able to &quot;waste&quot; money upgrading an apparently random tile on the board just to recover the other side of that tile for the move I actually want/need to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:17:03.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="612" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:20:59.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pegasus rulebook, pg 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Cylon Leader is considered a “human&#xA;  player” when he is Infiltrating and a&#xA;  “Cylon player” when he is not&#xA;  Infiltrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see an exception for infiltrating cylons on pg 17:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the Admiral has ordered Galactica&#xA;  to leave and ended the game, destroy&#xA;  all civilian ships still on New&#xA;  Caprica, and execute any human players&#xA;  still on a New Caprica location. If&#xA;  after resolving those losses, no&#xA;  resource has been reduced to 0 or&#xA;  lower, the humans win the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, infiltrating cylons are humans and would be executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="268" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:20:59.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:21:27.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that the additional mechanics of the expansions rarely combine constructively. I will play any of the expansions alone, and many of them in pairs, but usually decline a game that uses three or more because of the sort of undesirable consequences you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:21:27.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="784" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:31:06.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can claim the aristocrats that provide income based on the number of buildings (or, to a lesser degree, workers) you have early in the game then a strategy that orients on maximizing that type of card, particularly cheap ones, becomes viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:31:06.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-10-28T05:52:04.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8335/say-what&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Say What!?!&lt;/a&gt;, which is designed to be played in any social situation involving a lot of personal interaction and conversation. I like playing it during a game of Werewolf, or during various interrogate-your-neighbors mystery games, or even just at a house party where no other games are taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T05:52:04.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-28T07:23:02.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1198/set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Set&lt;/a&gt; should be a challenging game for all of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You lay out a number of cards with figures on them. The cards differ in the number, shape, color and shading of the figures on it. All players play concurrently trying to locate three cards where each attribute is either the same on all cards or different on all cards. The player who locates (and takes) the most sets wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T07:23:02.773" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="948" CreationDate="2010-10-28T07:25:26.187" Score="40" ViewCount="154031" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my opponent (o) has a road network:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;o - - - - - o&#xA;&#xA;       |&#xA;       x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as x, can I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;o - - -x- - o&#xA;       |&#xA;       |&#xA;       x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And break his already existing road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is not whether or not this will break his road; my question is if it is legal for me to build there and break an already-established road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a previous game, there was considerable controversy as to whether this was a legal place to build a settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="270" LastEditorUserId="20671" LastEditDate="2018-04-22T05:38:58.697" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T05:38:58.697" Title="Can a settlement disrupt roads in Settlers of Catan" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-28T07:29:58.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a fourth player I can recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2633/dog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dog&lt;/a&gt; as an awesome family game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2136/pachisi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pachisi&lt;/a&gt; but you play in teams of 2 and instead of throwing dice you play cards. This adds teamplay and a lot of strategy to the game. One of our favorite games at home and among friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T07:29:58.847" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="946" CreationDate="2010-10-28T08:00:16.910" Score="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you build a settlement on his road, you disrupt it yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/35/catan-longest-road-clarification&quot;&gt;catan-longest-road-clarification&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can build on any place if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can reach it by road or ship&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The vacant spot has no neighbouring settlements or cities. (There must be at least one empty spot between two settlements/cities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T23:13:46.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2010-10-28T08:04:51.743" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion you can combine any of the expansions (except possible the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38855/carcassonne-catapult&quot;&gt;Catapult&lt;/a&gt;) together to make a decent new game.  In fact we often combine different parts of different expansions if we want to avoid having too many rules.  We might play with the inns, pigs and mayors for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also we sometimes want a longer game but without too many extra rules.  For example, by playing with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/5405/carcassonne-traders-builders&quot;&gt;Traders and Builders&lt;/a&gt; we get a lot of extra tile shapes, which can be very satisfying if you like to fill in holes, but we might agree before the game that we won't use the resources associated with those tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One expansion which we never use alone is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/15158/carcassonne-the-princess-the-dragon&quot;&gt;Princess and Dragon&lt;/a&gt;.  We like to play with the dragon on a large board, as this helps to encourage more long-term strategies.  For example on a small board (with the dragon) you are unlikely to risk making a large city, or placing a farmer early.  If the board is bigger then the dragon is less likely to come near your meeples, so there is a bit more margin for prospective play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example it sounds like you are using a sensible number of rules.  If you're not a fan of small cities then you could maybe try playing without the siege tiles?  However at this stage it becomes a question of personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T08:04:51.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-28T08:05:45.890" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; is great with kids. Not too complicated, and they learn to divide their attention between long term and short term goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:27:13.237" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T04:27:13.237" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2010-10-28T09:03:24.240" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; You do the &quot;one at a time&quot; option as you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This case is precisely identical to the more common question of using Throne Room on a Throne Room, as the two cards are worded identically except for the number and a &quot;you may&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;official Dominion rules PDF&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You completely resolve playing the Action the first time before playing it&#xA;  the second time. If you Throne Room a Throne Room, you play an Action,&#xA;  doing it twice, and then play another Action and do it twice; you do not&#xA;  resolve an Action four times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, this means &quot;completely resolve playing King's Court the first time before [starting to] play it the second or third time&quot;. This means that yes, if your first Courted action was a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=smithy&quot;&gt;Smithy&lt;/a&gt;, you're going to have lots of choices for the second and third King's Court. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T09:03:24.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="904" CreationDate="2010-10-28T09:15:50.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some variants you have hands like Knitting (seven cross-suit pairs), Thirteen Grades of Imperial Treasure, and the Wriggling Snake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://w1.1332.telia.com/~u133200063/hands.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; matches the rulebook I learned from. It describes several others such as Windy Chows, Dragonfly, Heavenly Twins (a special case of All Pairs), Run Pung &amp;amp; Pair, and Red Lantern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe most of these should apply to riichi mahjong as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T09:15:50.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-28T12:48:55.507" Score="6" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the fun parts of the &lt;strong&gt;18xx&lt;/strong&gt; games, is that its fairly easy to create your own (local) version. I like to create a dutch version (yes there have been two already but with limited availability). One of the main features in dutch history is that it stared with lots of small companies that merged into one at the end (although there are some new companies started the last couple of years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1856&lt;/strong&gt; deals with the same situation, and they solved it with cash and loans (companies that couldn't pay their loan are merged into the national railway, which is fine but I like a different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;1870&lt;/strong&gt; companies can buy their own shares. But what if companies are allowed to buy shares of other companies. Would that be a workable solution. And how do the companies get enough cash to buy the shares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, is it a workable solution to allow (and even encourage) companies to buy other companies. Maybe only if the shares are in the lower part of the stock table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible extensions could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use of station markers of the owned company (or at least be able to pass through them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loan trains (only once per operation round so that a single train can't be run more than once).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;completely eat the company if 100% of the shares are owned. (including cash, trains and station markers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible problems could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two companies owing a third company&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;circular ownership (A owns B, B owns A) which can be solved by selling at least 50%(including the president share) at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T15:28:21.767" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T06:34:18.147" Title="18xx Companies able to buy other companies, what will be the impact" Tags="|house-rules|18xx|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-10-28T13:56:22.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a long-running German board game magazine called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielbox-shop.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spielbox&lt;/a&gt;. As of (I think) last year, they are also publishing an English version. I've only received one issue, but it is chalk full of reviews for new games. The translations can be... interesting, but it is quite readable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A VERY interesting resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="201" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T13:56:22.173" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-28T14:22:27.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kids are now sixteen and eight.  They have been raised, steeped in board games.  The first &quot;real&quot; game that my son was able to play with adults was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/827&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atilla&lt;/a&gt;.  And the first one my daughter got was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Settlers&lt;/a&gt;.  In both cases, they were in that same 6-8 age-range that you're talking about.  Those might be good ones to try for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="273" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T14:22:27.417" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-28T14:37:25.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple fun ways to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; with one player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build an outline of a 10x10 grid with randomly chosen tiles.  Attempt to fill it in completely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just play solo (possibly with a limited number of tiles and/or meeples) and try to maximize your score. Two examples.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The version in the Carcassonne iPhone game.  Draw+place tiles with no meeples.  Complete roads and cities of successively larger sizes starting at size 2 (features completed out of order do not count).  There are a few ways you could score this.&#xA;The iPhone game uses a method that may be too heavy for use by hand: tiles to compete scoring features are free, other tiles cost based on the size of the rectangle that encloses the area of play (cost=length+width after the tile is placed); you lose if the total cost exceeds 1000 before your size 6 road and city are built.&#xA;For less bookkeeping, you could try to maximize the road+city size you build while minimizing the size of the area of play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T14:37:25.460" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:01:12.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://santiago.mapache.org/games/mahjong/rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This set of rules for Chinese Mahjong&lt;/a&gt; might be a little terse, but are essentially the rules I have always played with.   The last chart gives a nice limited set of honor hands too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T15:01:12.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2647" CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:16:55.860" Score="6" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, on the Pegasus' various weapon stations, there is a result chart printed on the board.  It covers the possibilities of getting a die result of 1-8, on an 8-sided die.  But now suppose someone had played a Strategic Planning or Calculations card, adding +2 or +1 to the die roll, such that the die comes up a 9 or a 10.  What is the result?  The chart does not seem to cover this situation.  A similar situation arises on New Caprica with the human vs Cylon conflict rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T02:25:30.753" Title="What happens when you roll &quot;Off the top&quot; of a result table?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="78" CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:33:41.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warehouse23.com/item.html?id=DSP034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dork Tower #34: A Brief History of Gaming&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is a comic book featuring the early history of board games. &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/John_Kovalic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Kovalic&lt;/a&gt; is the author/illustrator (he is also a game designer) who created Dork Tower, a comic book that frequently features gaming of all kinds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="201" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T15:33:41.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="975" CreationDate="2010-10-28T15:41:14.643" Score="7" ViewCount="11469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by all the great answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/591/beginner-powergrid-strategy&quot;&gt;the similar question about Power Grid&lt;/a&gt;, I'd love to hear some suggestions for &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28720/brass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brass&lt;/a&gt;. I picked it up a little over a month ago, and we've only gotten it onto the table once. We pretty much struggled through it (ultimately, only finishing the Canal phase). I now feel like we have a basic grasp of the game mechanics, but basically no clue about strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the rules have a whole page devoted to this, but I like bullet points!  ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="201" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T07:26:33.340" Title="Beginner Brass Strategies?" Tags="|brass|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:16:09.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37380/roll-through-the-ages-the-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roll Through the Ages&lt;/a&gt;. This is a terrific civ game disguised as Yahtzee! It's a fun game in general, but I play it as a solitaire all the time on my iPhone. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/530882/roll-through-the-ages-on-the-iphone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The app&lt;/a&gt; is a great deal at 5 or 6 dollars. In fact, I own &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; the digital version! But it's a great game in either form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T16:16:09.793" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="954" CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:19:29.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd love to see a proper set of Merger &amp;amp; Acquisitions rules for 18xx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect I would start with something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Companies may buy each other's shares with company cash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Companies may not buy more than 20% of another company without making a takeover bid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make a takeover bid, a company must have enough cash to pay current market-price for all the shares it doesn't hold.  It first buys all shares of the target company that are not owned by players or other companies.  If that gets them &gt;50%, then the takeover is successful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it doesn't get them &gt;50%, then they offer current market price to the other shareholders.  If enough accept to get to &gt;50%, then success, otherwise, they can raise the offer until they succeed, run out of cash, or give up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any remaining shares are then forcibly bought at the highest price reached in the takeover auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the company has been taken over, the new company has then eaten it.  It can issue the share certificates of the takenover company as additional shares, diluting its own shareholdings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a hostile takeover system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A merger would go more like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If two companies each own 20% of each other and both presidents want them to merge, then they should announce this.  They need &gt;50% of the shares to vote in favour.  Shares owned by each other automatically vote yes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is now one, bigger company with all the station markers and trains.  If there are rules on the maximum number of trains a company can own, then this company can own twice as many.  Share certificates now represent half as large a percentage as previously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two Presidents' shares are combined into a single certificate, so that shareholding isn't diluted.  The new President will have to exchange some of his previous shares to get the shareholding right (ie Pres share is normally 20%, the President's certificate they had before is now only 10%, so they will have to hand over two other certificates to balance it out: if they don't have that many, then they can buy them from the company; it certainly owns at least 20% of itself).  If both of the Presidents of the pre-merger companies have the same shareholding in newco, then they have to agree when they announce the merger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any remaining shares that remain with the company after forced purchases by the new President and making change to the old President are now available to be bought on the open market.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new share price is the average of the share prices of the two old companies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T16:19:29.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:29:10.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/500_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;500&lt;/a&gt; if you have 4 players, its a card game with tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="138" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-28T16:30:27.920" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T16:30:27.920" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="966" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-28T16:32:35.797" Score="7" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;The river expansions, the wheel of fortune and other expansions all add their own sets of start tiles and blocks of tiles to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there good rules for combining these starting tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="55" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T18:53:51.210" Title="Good rules for combining the various expansions start tiles" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="972" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:07:04.097" Score="29" ViewCount="5747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played chess since I was kid and after much practice have become a decent player.  I still though, have little strategy to my opening moves besides starting with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King%27s_pawn_game&quot;&gt;King's Pawn Game&lt;/a&gt;.  I know professional players and grandmasters have a large repertoire of openings they know.  They also know a large number of responses to those openings.  How important is knowing different openings when playing chess casually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T15:11:45.057" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T21:13:16.903" Title="How important is memorizing chess openings in casual play?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:25:06.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess openings are very important if you are interested in winning games, as they are sets of moves that help develop your pieces quickly and gain some control of the centre of the board.  Having a grasp of an opening sequence that your opponent doesn't know should give you an edge in the early game that you may be able to turn into a clear lead during the middle game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are playing against an opponent who doesn't know the opening then you may quickly find yourself in an unexpected position - so try to concentrate on learning a shallow amount of an opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the other thing to say is that some openings are a must know.  See for example scholar's mate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T17:25:06.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:38:31.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest solution would be to let the first player select a start tile at random from the pile. You can decide to ignore the other start tiles or let the players select them as alternative to a normal tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T17:38:31.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="973" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:41:58.460" Score="27" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a player reveal a Reaction card, such as &quot;Secret Chamber&quot;, in response to the Minion action, even if the player who played the Minion chooses the +2$ option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SgpW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;(Minion)+1 Action. Choose 1:$2+;or discard your hand, +4 cards, and each other player with at least 5 cards in hand discards his hand and draws 4 cards. (5)Action-Attack&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7pzlk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;(Secret Chamber)Discard any number of cards, $1+ per card discarded. When another player plays an Attack card, you may reveal this card from your hand. If you do, +2 cards, then put 2 cards from your hand on the top of your deck.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T04:16:48.443" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T04:20:30.010" Title="Can I use a reaction card in response to Minion being used for +2 coins?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:47:21.627" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its far better to thoroughly understand a small number of openings than it is to mindlessly memorize a large number of openings.  Frequently, if you know &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; a set of moves is considered optimal, then you're in a better position to adapt once the board gets &quot;off the opening&quot;.  However, if you have a wide set of openings memorized, you may find that while you are moving down your 'optimal opening', ready to transition to a strong midgame, your opponent may have other plans, and make a move that takes him off your chosen opening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now frequently, there's a &lt;strong&gt;good reason&lt;/strong&gt; why that move is not covered by your opening chart;  that move may be terrible.  But if you don't understand &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; that move is terrible, then you may not be able to take advantage of it, and if the other player improvises better/faster than you, you may find yourself at a disadvantage despite your 'superior' play to this point in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't let that happen to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T03:56:23.610" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T03:56:23.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="971" CreationDate="2010-10-28T17:53:01.030" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can reveal Secret Chamber in response to Minion no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secret Chamber is a Reaction that can be played in response to Attack cards, and Minion is an Attack card.  The fact that the person played the card in a way that wasn't &quot;attacky&quot; doesn't change the fact that it is an Attack card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for Pirate Ship when using its +$ option. Yes, this makes Secret Chamber an amazing counter against Pirate Ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dflE6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;(Pirate Ship)Choose one: Each other player reveals the top 2 cards of his deck, trashed a revealed Treasure you choose, discards the rest, and if anyone traxhed a Treasure you take a Coin token; or, $1+ per Coin token you&amp;#39;ve taken with Pirate Ships this game.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T04:20:30.010" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T04:20:30.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="961" CreationDate="2010-10-28T18:18:37.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loans in Brass can be key to a successful game. Loans at the very beginning are very cheap to repay, where as loans later in the game can be very expensive. If you are likely to need a loan at any point during the game (which you almost certainly will), I would advise you to take the loan early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other pieces of advice I would offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to get some level 2 buildings in place before the end of the canal phase. It will make your position stronger. Choose the buildings that offer the most strategic positioning as the ones to upgrade, if you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you opponents are fighting it out for the Shipyard pieces, try to concentrate on the cotton route. The level 4 cotton buildings give victory points of 12 each when flipped. Two of these give you a better return (for far less manoeuvring) than a single ship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the iron or coal demand track has a few spaces empty, consider building immediately, to repopulate the demand track. You will potentially get the tile flipped immediately, and make some money for your troubles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't discount the idea of using two cards to place any industry on any city. Some will see this as a waste of a turn, but it can give you a tactical edge when there are few other options available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2010-10-29T18:25:38.180" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T18:25:38.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2010-10-28T18:51:04.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like this idea.&#xA;The ability to run out of tracks is not a key mechanic of (Age of) Steam, and adds some undesirable randomness, so I think it's expendable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing to be careful about is not to place track piece types that never existed in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, there are way too many straight and curved pieces anyway, at least in Age of Steam.  Just take a permanent marker and draw new tracks on existing pieces as you need them.  &quot;Build sidewalks where people walk.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T18:51:04.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:20:52.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't believe nobody's mentioned Cosmic Encounter yet.  Works &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well for 3-6, and the old 'kibitzer' variant from Mayfair adds a 7th moderately well.  (But don't play Cosmic for two.  In two-player Cosmic the objectives change for each player: they become 'go find another player first'.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Robo-rally works well from 3-8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the Talisman-esque games work for a wide range too, but they're not exactly small to pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Icehouse pieces are small, portable, and support several good multi-player or wide-ranging games:  Volcano/Mega-volcano, IceTowers, IceHouse, Zendo come to mind as good examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can still find it, Duel of Ages is a team game, is one of the few 3-6 player games which works just as well for 2, and it doesn't matter if the teams aren't balanced.  (In theory you could play it with any number on each team, but in practice more than about 3 players per team is slower without being more fun.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Played right, Twilight Imperium &lt;em&gt;works&lt;/em&gt; for 3-8, but it's definitely &lt;em&gt;strongest&lt;/em&gt; with 5-6.  And it's an FF big box game, so it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; small to pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:20:52.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:25:58.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Descent is definitely the good current choice, especially with either of it's campaign expansions.  (You don't need both campaigns; they largely overlap so one is enough, unles you play it roughly every night for a year.)  Although, get &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of the standard expansions Well of Darkness or Altar of Despair first; the campaign plays much better with the treachery cards from those expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a simpler, faster (and harder!) option, Descent's 'kid brother' Doom can work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(While we're on the family, Descent's older uncle Runebound is a bit less Hero-Questy but may still match what you're looking for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2010-12-26T00:44:23.090" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T00:44:23.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="541" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:28:07.837" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's the obivious one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;Are you the Traitor?&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that newbies especially, will telegraph their own identity by their behaviour in the first 20 seconds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking about the traitor ===&gt;  Guard.&#xA;Asking about the wizards ===&gt;  Keyholder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my suggestion for your own personal strategy is to form a habit (and importantly, be seen to form a habit) of always asking the same question (be it &quot;Are you the traitor&quot; or &quot;Are you the keyholder&quot;) to all players in the same order.  This stops them from gaining information from your question or question ordering.  What you want to do is watch the reactions.  For example, if you ask if Alice is the Keyholder, and she answers with an uncertain no, and Bob lights up and glances at the 2 wizards, its usually safe to accuse Bob of being the traitor (because he knows the keyholder, and now needs to signal evil wizard).  The key to that game is not the question, or the answer;  its regulating the flow of information by amassing as much for yourself as possible without revealing any of what you already know.  Your goal is not necessarily to discover your target;  your goal is to possess the sum of the public knowledge, while maintaining your monopoly rights on your private knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:28:07.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:29:20.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Treat any result higher than an 8 as an 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="39" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:29:20.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="823" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:31:44.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also hit up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lexicanum&lt;/a&gt; for relatively detailed historical entries;  just bear in mind that being a wiki, there is some information on there that is of disputed quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:31:44.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:33:52.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I liked to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concentration_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Concentration&lt;/a&gt; with my parents when I was a kid. It's entertaining and doesn't have complicated rules -- you just need to use your memory!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="248" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:33:52.013" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:38:59.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For casual play, I don't think &lt;strong&gt;memorizing&lt;/strong&gt; chess openings is all that important. However, studying and &lt;strong&gt;understanding&lt;/strong&gt; why some counter-moves are appropriate for this or that opening may prove quite useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="248" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:38:59.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:51:08.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, tactics focus on short-term, local results. The strategy should instead focus on your global, long-term objectives. This is why some tactically brilliant decisions (say, an effective surprise attack) can be, in the end, strategically detrimental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="248" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:51:08.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="931" CreationDate="2010-10-28T19:54:04.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laminate your boards, play with dry erase markers instead of tiles. Cuts the component count down a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: Be sure to document the legal types of tiles, unless you are also allowing arbitrary tiles as part of this change. I always hated finding out which tiles didn't exist just in time to need them :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T19:54:04.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2010-10-28T20:21:11.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looked through the rules and found nothing on point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_temas.asp?efid=24&amp;amp;efcid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BSG Forums&lt;/a&gt;, it is commonplace to see folks treating a roll higher than 8 as an 8.  There doesn't appear to be any dissent.  I didn't see anyone disagreeing or challenging that assertion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=24&amp;amp;efcid=1&amp;amp;efidt=327390&amp;amp;efpag=0#329567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Save nukes for when you really need them. Don't be afraid of throwing out a strategic planning card to thin some Raiders out too if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T20:21:11.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2010-10-28T22:12:47.900" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I asked a question over at math.stackexchange.com to get some advise on how to analyze the various weapon development options (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/8107/how-to-analyze-risk-vs-reward-for-spending-on-research-and-development-work&quot;&gt;How to analyze risk vs. reward for spending on research and development work&lt;/a&gt;). Mike Spivey suggested using a decision tree, which I had some familiarity with from past classes in probability and statistics. In short, the decision tree calculates the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expected_value&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;expected value&lt;/a&gt; for spending 0 through 30 IPC on a turn for weapons development research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To construct this decision tree (see below), I made some assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy bombers are the only weapons development &quot;worth&quot; anything. In short, any money spent that resulted in discovering a tech other than heavy bombers was considered wasted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discovering the heavy bombers tech is worth some amount of IPCs. Because this value may differ per player (that is, I may be willing to pay, say, 50 IPC to get heavy bombers while someone else may be willing to pay 100), I created an Excel spreadsheet where this &quot;worth&quot; could be plugged in and the expected value would be computed for spending 0 to 30 IPC on a turn for rolling for techs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the decision tree I constructed to compute the expected values for spending 0 to 30 IPC in a turn, meaning paying for 0 to 6 rolls of the die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5pqPt.png&quot; alt=&quot;Weapons development decision tree&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected value of one of the rolls is computed by adding together the value (the amount in the bottommost boxes) times the probability of getting there for a particular branch in the tree.  I presume the player has a purse of 30 IPC at the start of their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you do zero rolls (the far left branch) then you have an expected outcome of 100% * 30, or 30 IPC. In other words, you'll always end up with a purse of 30 IPC after the rolls. However, if you decide to spend money to do one roll then you have a ~2.75%  chance of getting Heavy Bombers (1/36). Doing so yields a purse of 25 + X, where X is the &quot;worth&quot; of having heavy bombers. There is ~97.25% chance that you will not get heavy bombers, in which case you have a purse of 25 IPC. So the expected value of one roll is 2.75% * (25 + X) + 97.25% * 25. Of course, the actual hard number depends on X, which is what heavy bombers is worth to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created a very simple Excel spreadsheet that calculated all seven expected values for a given value of X, where X was a number in a particular cell. Using this spreadsheet I could play with X to see at what point it actually makes sense to roll for weapons development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chart below shows how the expected value changes as the value of X grows. The X-axis shows the expected outcome for zero to six rolls. The series show how the expected value changes as the value of the heavy bombers tech (X) increases. Here I show the expected value for six different values: 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, and 270.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7HJNc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Expected values for various values of X and rolls of the die`enter code here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how at a &quot;worth&quot; of 180, heavy bombers have the same expected value regardless of how many times you roll the die. If the value is lower, however, it makes sense to abstain from weapons development altogether; if its higher to you, spend every last penny you have on development! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think heavy bombers are not worth this much. 180 IPC is the combined budget of 5-10 turns. It is equivalent to purchasing 12 standard bombers. Forgoing any sort of unit procurement for that many turns, just to get heavy bombers, is a suicidal thought. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In closing, keep in mind that this is a very simple model. It presumes heavy bombers are the only worthwhile tech. It does not factor in that if you discover other technologies, that the odds of discovering heavy bombers actually increase since if you roll an initial 6 you get to keep rolling for your discovered tech until you discover a new one. Also, the analysis presumes the player is in a vacuum of sorts and does not factor in that he must spend certain amounts of IPCs to hold his territories from the enemy, not to mention the monies needed to go on the offensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:19:19.487" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T22:12:47.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-10-28T22:18:08.370" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;1000x more important (and more fun!) than even studying theory is.. &lt;strong&gt;improving your tactics!&lt;/strong&gt;  The best place I know for this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chesstempo.com&quot;&gt;chesstempo.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily get up to 1700~1900 USCF never learning any theory at all &lt;em&gt;(casual players are usually &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_rating_system#Elo_rating_system&quot;&gt;800~1400&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;, and I've even met a few players over 2000 (master level) who have never studied any theory!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you &lt;em&gt;insist&lt;/em&gt; on studying theory, learn the barebone basics, then &lt;strong&gt;study endgames&lt;/strong&gt; - knowing an opening might give you a slight theoretical edge going into the middlegame, but &lt;em&gt;knowing an endgame could mean the difference between winning and drawing/losing&lt;/em&gt;. Remember, &lt;strong&gt;the winner is the person who makes the second-to-last mistake!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T00:19:19.463" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T00:19:19.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="828" CreationDate="2010-10-28T23:56:14.950" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of my children liked to lose but for very different reasons. I used very different strategies to help each of them through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My eldest took losing as an affront. It challenged his self-image. I followed the strategy of &quot;always play my best&quot; and by the time he was 7 or 8, he was beating me of his own accord and taking enormous delight from it. He doesn't mind losing either. I call that a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My youngest daughter is less self-confident. Losing confirms her self-image. I try to let her win sometimes (without being obvious about it). As a result, she still loves playing games and is just now starting to win a few games for real. I expect that strategy #1 on child #2 would have put her off playing for life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral: Tailor your strategy for your child's personality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A last thought: My wife hates to lose and hates playing games as a result. I don't mind losing at all, but I absolutely love winning. My wife doesn't understand the distinction but I made sure that my children do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2010-10-28T23:56:14.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-10-29T00:26:29.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cripple_Mr_Onion#Cripple_Mr_Onion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules for Cripple Mr Onion&lt;/a&gt;, and there's also the (older, I believe) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lspace.org/ftp/words/misc/cripple-mr-onion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lspace rules for the game&lt;/a&gt;.  The Terry Pratchett fan club &quot;the Guild of Fans and Disciples&quot; used to give new members a printed copy of the rules (the lspace version, I believe); I'm not sure if the organisation exists any more (their website is at Geocities, so...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are too long to reproduce here, but as a summary of the game (loosely paraphrased from the above sources):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cripple Mr Onion uses two decks of&#xA;  cards (ideally one English and one&#xA;  French) and revolves around forming&#xA;  groups of cards which either sum&#xA;  exactly to twenty-one (an onion) or&#xA;  come close to this total without&#xA;  exceeding it.  There is both a&#xA;  gambling and a non-gambling variant,&#xA;  and there are two forms of betting in&#xA;  the gambling game: &quot;matching the&#xA;  Dealer's stake&quot; and &quot;raising the&#xA;  Dealer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="284" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T00:26:29.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2010-10-29T02:29:34.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with the Kwabang attack is it can give the UK a decent foothold in Asia, as well as denying Japan some early IPC, and it &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; screws with Japan's starting strategies.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of me wants to say, &quot;Just ignore Kwangtung, go after Hawaii, and start grinding out transports and armor turn 2 for a mainland attack&quot;, but I think the Kwangtung attack swings things enough that you need to deal with it first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While 5 infantry plus 2 battleships against 1 infantry anywhere would normally be overkill, in this case I don't think it is, because:  what else are you going to do with them?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To successfully attack the Pearl Harbor fleet, I feel you should throw &lt;strong&gt;everything&lt;/strong&gt; in your fleet and air force at it, and if you're already sending your bombers into China instead of Hawaii, and you probably want at least one battleship in Kwangtung for the bombardment, there's not much left you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; send against the Pearl Harbor fleet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sooo... finally to your question, where does that leave us?  I guess it depends on what the US does.  With an intact fleet, I think the US have two options -- harass Japan so they can't start a mainland invasion, or swing through the Panama Canal and support UK's landfall into Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the US goes after Germany -- good news, it's not your problem, at least not directly.  You'll just have to push hard into the mainland to advance into Russia, and find other ways to support Germany (ideally by eliminating the US and UK presence, setting up a mainland factory, and cranking out infantry and armor from the east coast of China).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the US uses their first turn to move towards you, their fleet can't make it to Japan in one turn, so you'll have a turn to buy units and bulk up.  If you're playing with two-hit battleships, consider one; otherwise, consider subs and destroyers to counter their navy.  You'll want to go after the US navy pretty fast, because they'll do one of two things:  camp out in the Japan sea space, or start island-hopping with the UK to drain you of IPCs quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, as for Manchuria, if you think you can get away with it, leave one unit in Manchuria for the defense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow, that ended up being longer than I intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T02:29:34.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-10-29T04:23:16.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just saw a commercial for a game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B003AIM52A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hedbanz&lt;/a&gt; on TV, looked like it could be fun. It's more of a card/party game. The gameplay is kind of like 20 Questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T04:23:16.463" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1163" CreationDate="2010-10-29T04:39:17.133" Score="31" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many games, such as Liar's Dice or On The Underground, there is an advantage to be had by sitting immediately after (in the turn order) the player who is least experienced or just plain bad at the game. Are there any widely applicable ideas for resolving this problem? Or, is there some house rule or variant that improves this aspect of a particular game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2011-01-23T11:13:29.340" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T01:18:49.210" Title="How to eliminate advantages gained from the seating position of inferior players?" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-10-29T04:41:20.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given honest players, some of whom have a grasp of the game at hand and this problem, I have often found that simply seating players in order of skill/experience mitigates this problem somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T04:41:20.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-10-29T04:57:36.967" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can't have a serious, cutthroat game with a wide range of skills, so relax. Gently coach the new players, but no more than they're willing to receive. Play a couple of dummy rounds for the new players and then restart if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really serious, you can investigate ways to handicap the game, but that's really hard to do without ruining the balance of most games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T04:57:36.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-10-29T04:58:49.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it really depends on the game and the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am new to a game, it doesn't really matter where I sit, until I become experienced enough to understand the positives and negatives of a seat position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm just a bad player, well, then I am not in any better position no matter where I am.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, we try to shuffle seating regularly when playing several rounds of a single game.  Depending on the game, we will also sit according to final score/placement, winner getting the first seat, then on down to the left.  This helps with games like Puerto Rico and some other games that tend be a bit harder for those going first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2010-10-29T17:09:06.617" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T17:09:06.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-29T05:23:08.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The great book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0471536210&quot;&gt;New Rules for Classic Games&lt;/a&gt; by R. Wayne Schmittberger has some suggestions for different ways to play Trivial Pursuit. I think the best one is to add &lt;strong&gt;challenges&lt;/strong&gt;. If you think another player has answered incorrectly, you challenge them and give your own answer. If you're right, you get a pie for the category you answered. Already have that pie? choose your colour. If you already have six pies, he suggests removing a pie from the opponent, but I think you might rather call that a winning condition. If your challenge is incorrect, he suggests losing a pie, but that will slow down the game. I suggest you just skip your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option you might like is to play without the board. One suggestion in the book is called &lt;strong&gt;Going Out&lt;/strong&gt;. Each player takes a stack of cards, maybe 24 high. On your turn, choose a category to start with, read the question aloud and answer it. Flip the card to check and discard it. If you were correct, answer the next category of the next card. If you were incorrect, it's the next player's turn. First player to discard their last card wins. If you want to be extra fair, give remaining players one more turn until you get back to the first player. You may need to have some kind of trivia shoot out to break ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch more options in the book, including &lt;strong&gt;Trivia Tic-Tac-Toe&lt;/strong&gt;. It looks like it's out of print, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0471536210&quot;&gt;Amazon page&lt;/a&gt; includes the &quot;look inside&quot; feature, and I just searched for &quot;Trivial Pursuit&quot; to find all these rules. I had to sign in first, your mileage may vary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T05:23:08.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-10-29T05:47:31.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is too much of a difference between players such that winning is not an option for the &quot;lesser&quot; players, try to focus on having fun. The players won't return if they always lose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to team up. Make a team with a couple of an experienced players and a new player, so the new player can learn from the pro without the need to be beaten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T00:51:45.173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T00:51:45.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1007" CreationDate="2010-10-29T05:54:04.950" Score="14" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;When designing a board game to publish on the web, what components are safe to assume that most people will already have in their collection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T04:43:31.310" Title="What components does &quot;everybody&quot; have?" Tags="|game-design|components|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-10-29T05:54:41.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll state the obvious ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Checkers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Six-sided dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-11-03T05:17:47.043" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T05:17:47.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-10-29T06:03:19.030" Score="12" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;chess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;checkers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;six-sided dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;playing cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pen &amp;amp; paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple play pieces (meeples or other incarnations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-11-05T04:43:31.310" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T04:43:31.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-29T07:15:04.070" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to eliminate the element of chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player can move up to the number of empty spots (6 at game start) in any direction. Each time you got a piece this reduces the movement. If the movement is 0 you have won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T07:15:04.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2010-10-29T08:00:01.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to memorise every opening move and variation to be able to play it - not for casual play at least. It's better to just play and get a feel of the different characters that varied first moves and common responses can give a game. You may find you enjoy losing games trying to crack a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_Opening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;c4 first move&lt;/a&gt; more than winning with a King's Pawn game, and you'll learn to understand the opening better than you ever will by memorising the first X moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And let's face it, for most of us the game isn't won or lost in the first few moves; there are plenty more opportunities for middle and end-game blunders. A world of experimentation and catastrophic strategic mistakes awaits!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T08:00:01.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-10-29T08:12:09.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's always &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2807/the-settlers-of-catan-5-6-player-extension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5-6 player expansion pack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on hand. That covers 3 up to 6 fairly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is good with 2-5, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2993/carcassonne-inns-cathedrals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inns and Cathedrals expansion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; takes it up to 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also a big fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/438/scotland-yard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scotland Yard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which can adapt reasonably well to 2-6 players (although ideally with 3-6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 players: one player is Mr X, the&#xA;other takes 4 detectives 3 players:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one player is Mr X, two players take&#xA;2 detectives each 4,5 and 6 players:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one player is Mr X, the rest take 1&#xA;detective each&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scotland Yard is quite a bit of fun too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T08:12:09.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-10-29T08:45:36.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pens/pencils&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;playing cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2010-11-01T11:09:16.817" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T11:09:16.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1013" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2010-10-29T11:14:38.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power Grid is a strategy board game from Rio Grande games, designed by Friedemann Friese.  It is suitable for 2-6 players, ages 12 and up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players take turns bidding on power plants, buying resources to fuel those plants (coal, oil, trash or uranium), and buying stakes in cities for their power plants to power in order to generate revenue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power Grid features multiple expansions (which are double-sided game boards with unique rules), such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;France/Italy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China/Korea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Central Europe/Benelux.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brazil/Spain &amp;amp; Portugal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, an expansion deck of power plants is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power Grid's turn structure is arranged so that the person with the least amount of houses and lowest-numbered power plant gets to act first when buying resources and building in cities, to give them a chance at catching up; sometimes being in last place is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the turns progress, other players can buy stakes in cities, but for an additional cost.  The first person to build in a certain number of cities will trigger the end-game, and the person who can power the most cities in the end-game is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-29T11:21:36.817" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T11:21:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1014" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2010-10-29T11:14:38.213" Score="0" Body="Power Grid is a strategy board game from Rio Grande games, designed by Friedemann Friese.  It is suitable for 2-6 players, ages 12 and up.  Players take turns bidding on power plants, buying resources to fuel those plants, and buying stakes in cities for their power plants to power in order to generate revenue." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-10-29T11:14:38.213" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T11:14:38.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-10-29T14:08:45.390" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Meeples Efficiently&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're your only resource for scoring points, and they're a renewable resource.  A good starting point for your 7 meeples would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 for long-term goals: cloisters, farms, and large cities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 for short-term goals: roads and small cities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 in reserve for instant scoring&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you have to tailor this for the game situation you're in.  The general idea is to avoid tying up too many meeples on things that won't net you many points.  Smaller roads and cities are easier to complete - score the points and put your meeple to work somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T14:08:45.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-29T14:08:52.133" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that we've tried with some success in my family is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As soon as any team gets its sixth wedge, the regular part of the game ends and the final round begins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the final round, &lt;strong&gt;draw one card randomly and each team writes down its answers to the six questions on the card&lt;/strong&gt;. When everyone is done, add the number of correct answers in the final round to the number of wedges acquired during the regular game. A perfect score is 12; whoever has the most points out of 12 wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, you completely eliminate the mechanic of waiting for a lucky roll to land exactly on the middle spot, give teams that are behind a little bit of hope (but still a significant disadvantage), and prevent the game state from dragging on unchanged for any length of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="114" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T14:08:52.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1027" CreationDate="2010-10-29T14:24:08.537" Score="41" ViewCount="7311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it better to start with Wheat and Ore in order to rapidly upgrade settlements into cities, or is it better to start with Wood and Brick to build roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T20:04:59.093" LastActivityDate="2021-01-22T00:45:36.483" Title="Which resources are better at the start of a Catan game?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="106" CreationDate="2010-10-29T14:49:40.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just take a look at my own game here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pages.videotron.com/remneb/binary.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pages.videotron.com/remneb/binary.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Antoine Richard" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T14:49:40.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:04:13.070" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest trying to start the game by diversifying your resources and numbers.  While I've started games without any access to brick, it usually limits my ability to expand, and keeps me from building out as fast as the other players.  How you start affect what your going to do.  You'll also have to select sites that are available, since no matter what order you place your settlements, you never get to cherry pick the two best spots on the board.  Grain and Ore help you build cities, but you still need to get more settlements you can grow into cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer having access to grain, ore, and sheep on my better numbers, and having access to wood and brick on my slightly less common numbers.  I try to diversify myself through expansion, although I will settle for multiple instances of a resource if the numbers are good, and there is easy access to a port for those resources.  This is a game strategy though, and while you can win this way, it's difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginning player, I would suggest making sure you have access to brick and wood.  It helps you out immensely and doesn't make you feel stalled in the beginning part of the game.  I like getting access to a 6 chit or an 8 chit with different resources for each of my initial settlements, but only if the settlement locations I'm taking look useful.  Definitely avoid building your initial settlements on the coast if the location doesn't have a port.  You're reducing the number of resource tiles you have access too, and don't get a port in return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a note, I asked a very similar question when we first started the beta for the site, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/47/how-do-you-place-your-initial-settlements-in-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;How do you place your initial settlements in Settlers of Catan?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've played your settlements, I suggest first getting new settlements before going to cities and development cards.  Definitely though, if you have the resources to build a city, do it.  While early expansion is good, using your resources before the robber comes and reduces your hand size is a much better strategy then throwing things you want away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T01:53:37.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:25:48.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nearly everybody has &quot;play money&quot; around in some form or another - from Monopoly, Life, or similar games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many households that lack a chess set will still have pawns from Sorry, Parcheesi, etc..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T15:25:48.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1054" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:32:13.307" Score="13" ViewCount="3422" Body="&lt;p&gt;In backgammon, there comes a time when all pieces have passed each other; there is no more interaction, you are simply rolling it out until you can bear off all of your pieces. If one player is well ahead of the other at getting their pieces into their home board and bearing them off, then it might seem pointless to keep rolling it out; it may well be impossible, or at least extremely improbably, for the other player to make up the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May the player who is behind resign in such a situation, or do they need to play it out in case of a gammon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if they are allowed to resign, are there any good rules of thumb to decide when it's worthwhile to do so, and when it's worthwhile to keep playing? For instance, has anyone calculated out the possibilities such that you can say &quot;if player 1 has started bearing off, and player 2 has &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; pieces outside of their home board, there is no possible way for player 2 to win.&quot; Or, has anyone calculated out the probabilities, such that you can determine based on the position that there's only a one in a million chance of winning, and it's probably not worth hoping for that, while in another situation, you might have 10 to 1 odds and it's worth seeing if you make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit to add:&lt;/strong&gt; According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+1013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a thread on Backgammon Galore&lt;/a&gt;, along with their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/gloss/lookup.cgi?resign&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;glossary&lt;/a&gt;, you can offer to resign with any outcome (backgammon, gammon, or a simple win). If you offer one of the lower outcomes (gammon or simple win), your opponent can refuse in order to take the chance at getting the higher outcome. Of course, this only applies if you're playing in a tournament, a rating system, or for money where the value of the win matters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I've answered the first half of my question, but I'm still interested in the second half; when should you resign? Are there any good rules of thumb, or has anyone done a statistical analysis, of what points in the game one player can be guaranteed to lose, or have such a low probability of winning that it's worth it to just resign? Are there any good ways to tell when you should offer to resign with a gammon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T05:20:20.240" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:06:16.213" Title="In backgammon, can you resign, and how can you tell when you should?" Tags="|probability|backgammon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-10-29T15:32:40.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both strategies can be successful - as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/48/in-settlers-of-catan-how-do-you-overcome-bad-initial-settlement-placement&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; your strategy should be based on the initial settlements you are able to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly, if you have easy access to Brick and Wood, going for long roads and many settlements can be a good idea.  On the other hand, if you have easy access to Wheat and Ore, you'll want to emphasize upgrading your settlements to cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T15:32:40.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:13:14.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In professional play I can't say but if it were just you and I playing then I'd say sure you could resign just to finish the game and start a new game. Is it possible that the losing player could win ... yeah but if it's such a remote possibility then I'd call the game just for the sake of entertainment (I.E. lets play again, it's boring just to finish the game out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a rule of thumb ... I'm not sure of the mathematical calculations, but from just playing a lot I tend to know when I'm beat. I'll keep playing but in my head I know that I've been beat so psychologically I throw in the towel and start thinking of new strategies for the next game. It's probably not the ideal mindset, but then again I don't play professionally, in tournaments or for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user61" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:06:16.213" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:06:16.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:28:04.667" Score="4" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Glory to Rome, if a player leads with a role, say Architect (using a Jack, as it is important to this example) can I follow with an actual Architect card if I either have no legal plays (all in-town sites are built or my stockpile is empty/not applicable to my under construction buildings) or if I want to perform no action other than to get an architect role into the pool at the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Specifically this is so I can patron an Architect to win the game through the Forum's special ability, and Architects don't make it/remain in the pool.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T01:01:09.257" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T03:52:28.383" Title="Glory to Rome: play a role, perform no action" Tags="|glory-to-rome|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:40:25.047" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a counterpoint to ICodeForCoffee's answer: I much prefer having access to brick and wood on initial settlements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial brick and wood allow you to get to more positions on the map, to increase your ore and corn income. Initial corn and ore allow you to build cities, which get you... more corn and ore. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start on corn and ore, you can find yourself locked out of the other resources (brick and wood) much more easily than if you start on brick and wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T16:40:25.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1005" CreationDate="2010-10-29T16:44:21.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can look at what the Cheapass games come with and what they suggest you borrow from other games. Typically they assume players have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pawns / meeples / etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counters such as coins / beads / etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pen and paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stack of paper money &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T16:44:21.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="954" CreationDate="2010-10-29T17:33:48.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.proto.deepthoughtgames.com/home/1817-prototype-files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;prototype from Deep Thought Games named 1817&lt;/a&gt; that has playtested rules for what you are looking for - plus a selection of really interesting stock market rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't yet played it myself, but I have ordered all the wooden tokens for making station markers and wooden cubes for loan markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T17:33:48.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1486" CreationDate="2010-10-29T18:05:14.020" Score="18" ViewCount="21392" Body="&lt;p&gt;What rule variations do you recommend for playing Axis &amp;amp; Allies, from ones meant to balance the game to ones that add a little spice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the variants I've played with - always looking for new suggestions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russia cannot attack on first turn.&lt;/strong&gt; Personally, I don't consider this a rule variation because I only play games where this is enforced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bidding system for choosing Axis player(s)&lt;/strong&gt;. Namely, the unit of currency is decided - IPCs or infantry or tech rolls - and then each player writes down how much of the currency they'd need to play Germany or Japan after which all players reveal their bids. The lowest bidders are awarded the Axis power(s) and are given their compensation, either before the game begins or at the start of their first turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No economic victory for Axis.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No new factories.&lt;/strong&gt; This variation makes life very tough on Japan, especially if she has some poor luck in the Pacific to start the game off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Free weapons developments for Axis powers.&lt;/strong&gt; Traditionally, Germany gets Jet Power and Japan gets Super Subs, but I've played where Germany and Japan can choose a technology of choice other than Heavy Bombers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Every country must spend exactly 5 IPC per turn to do weapons development.&lt;/strong&gt; A somewhat silly variation, but invariably adds some twists to the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two hit battleships.&lt;/strong&gt; This variation makes for an interesting opening game, strengthening the UK Sea Zone fleet, making it harder for the Allies to take out the German Mediterranean fleet, and giving Japan a little more of an edge in the Pacific.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other variations you've played with that you'd recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T06:01:08.243" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T17:25:57.683" Title="Recommended Axis &amp; Allies alternative rules / variations?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-10-29T18:18:08.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variation on this rule occurred in a game we played last night. A rule was mis-interpreted while playing Brass. The move was discussed before the piece was placed to confirm it was valid, but later was found to be an invalid move as a supplementary rule clarified that move was illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did our best to roll-back the move to make it as &quot;fair&quot; as possible. I would never see this happening in a tournament scenario, but then again, clarifications of rules would not be so subject to mistakes, and the judges rule is final would take over here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general theme we have been playing however, is that a turn can be taken back, as long as no new information has become available. Privileges are allowed to be taken only if it does not affect someone else's decision (so simply forgetting to take £200 for passing Go, would be such a privilege we would allow to be back dated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T18:18:08.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:23:53.587" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We long-ago made a set of 'random position' counters for games where player order matters; one with the name of each player in our group.  Then we deal out the seating for the game at random.  This doesn't solve the problem in any individual game, but on average everyone comes out even.  Getting the worst player as in a good place for your or the best as your most-likely attacker becomes just another random factor of the game - in the long run, luck evens out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know any games offhand that are &lt;em&gt;absolutely ruined&lt;/em&gt; by this kind of position difference, unless the gap in skills is so great as to be a problem no matter what - in which case you might as well admit that and make it a relaxed teaching game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T20:23:53.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1042" CreationDate="2010-10-29T20:45:51.097" Score="32" ViewCount="3349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never played Magic. I briefly tried the original Vampire: The Masquerade (V:TM) themed CCG (Jyhad?). I had some Illuminati: New World Order (INWO) cards. I bought and listlessly toyed with a deck of the A Game of Thrones CCG. I really, really tried to like HeroClix. But every single time, the collectible element drove me away. I just couldn't see the merits of the game outweigh the pressure that random buys would put on my completist nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there are a number of games that seem to take the good parts of the collectible games and do away with the collectible part. Can anyone offer a compare / contrast thumbnail of what seem to be the big deck-building games out today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dominion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thunderstone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ascension&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nightfall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an experienced RPG and boardgamer, so it's not like I'll be put off by some complicated rules or emergent complexity arising from multiple card interactions. And it's not like I can't hit BGG for some reviews. I just want to know what these games share and how they differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's another game like this, I'd be open to hearing about that, too. I'm not sure that the Fantasy Flight Games Living Card Games for A Game of Thrones  and Call of Cthulhu qualify - aren't they just repackages of the old CCGs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T16:32:01.103" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:59:19.137" Title="Comparisons Betwen Deck-Building Games" Tags="|deck-building|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:00:25.037" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card system that you describe is not just a variant, it is an official expansion, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/20038/catan-event-cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan: Event Cards&lt;/a&gt;, which includes not only the rolls (in the form of the totals with the appropriate distribution) but also red dice for Cities and Knights and a selection of minor game events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aprvd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample Cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T21:00:25.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:29:14.973" Score="5" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is more of a wiki about what games would be fun to play at a baby shower. My wife is throwing one and the games are fairly boring. I was hoping I could help think of at least one, original, fun game for her and her friends. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="300" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-26T03:04:49.260" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T03:04:49.260" Title="Baby shower games" Tags="|party|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-11-06T15:35:41.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-10-29T21:42:58.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have enough people, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafia_(party_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Werewolf&lt;/a&gt; (a.k.a. Mafia or Assassin) makes a great party game - it often reveals exactly what your friends think you are capable of!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'turns' are fairly quick, so it works well with large groups (in the dozens) - although you might want to limit the length of discussion/argument in between!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has the added advantage of not needing any equipment and as a by-stander to the party you'd make the perfect 'Narrator' (they moderate the game, rather than participating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the wikipedia page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A party game modeling a battle between&#xA;  an informed minority and an uninformed&#xA;  majority. Players are secretly&#xA;  assigned roles: either &quot;mafia&quot;, who&#xA;  know each other; or &quot;townspeople&quot;, who&#xA;  know only the number of mafia amongst&#xA;  them. In the game's &quot;night&quot; phase the&#xA;  mafia covertly 'murder' a townsperson.&#xA;  During the day phase, all of the&#xA;  surviving players debate the&#xA;  identities of the mafia and vote to&#xA;  eliminate a suspect. Play continues&#xA;  until all of the mafia have been&#xA;  eliminated, or until the mafia&#xA;  outnumber the townspeople. A typical&#xA;  game starts with seven townspeople and&#xA;  three mafioso.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: The thread '&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/637/anyone-know-more-social-games-like-werewolves&quot;&gt;Anyone know more 'social' games like 'Werewolves&lt;/a&gt;&quot;' has a great list of similar 'party games'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T21:49:34.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:08:16.157" Score="48" ViewCount="43945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of my favourite games, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/483/diplomacy&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt;, have little or no element of luck - either via dice rolls, hands dealt, or other methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other games can you recommend that rely on 'skill' alone? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One game per answer, game name formatted as header and link to more information. Vote for your favourite if it exits already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2018-02-12T09:14:30.010" LastActivityDate="2018-02-12T09:14:30.010" Title="Games that have no element of luck." Tags="|recommendations|luck|skill|" AnswerCount="41" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:33:26.513" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:10:12.863" Score="55" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess&quot;&gt;Chess&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is an obvious and longstanding game of skill alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T22:10:12.863" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:49:31.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The LCG's aren't strictly &quot;just repackages&quot;.  While some of the cards are subtly modified from the CCG, they are essentially the same.  The rules are the current CCG rules yet have new gameplay elements present.  The most important distinction is there is none of the traditional CCG randomness to the Chapter Packs.  They are fixed card packs used purely to customize or expand your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I would agree, in my opinion they are not &quot;deck building&quot; games (because you don't build a deck as a primary component of gameplay) but deck building is a component if the owner chooses to buy Chapter Packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T22:49:31.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2010-10-29T22:52:54.267" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I'll give it a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, what they have in common:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Static Cards&lt;/strong&gt;: They are all static (meaning not CCG) card games.  Some (Dominion and Thunderstone) have expansions, but none of them require collecting or hunting down 'rare' cards to make the game better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory Points&lt;/strong&gt;: They all use a Victory Point system to determine the winner.  This is called &quot;honor&quot; in ascension (I think) but in essence, its still victory points.  The person with the most at the end wins.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flexibility in numbers&lt;/strong&gt;:They are all flexible on the number of players: Ascension is 2-4, Thunderstone is 2 - 5 (or 6) and I think Dominion is 2 - 6.  Not sure on the numbers exactly because Thunderstone has a nice single player variant, and both Thunderstone and Dominion can be expanded to include more players by playing with expansion cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deck Building&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dominion&lt;/strong&gt; is focused on building a deck to buy victory points.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While there are cards to interact and &quot;attack&quot; the other players, the game is centered around building a deck that will allow you to buy the most victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thunderstone&lt;/strong&gt; focuses on building a deck from a general pool of cards, and then using your hand to &quot;defeat monsters in the dungeon&quot;, thus gaining your Victory Points from the defeated monsters.  Some Victory Points can be purchased as well, but not usually enough to win the game, so defeating monsters is important to winning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ascension&lt;/strong&gt; is much more like Thunderstone than Dominion.  In Ascension, you must also build a deck to defeat monsters to gain Honor (Victory Points) but unlike Thunderstone, the cards in the general pool are revealed one at a time.  So you have a line of 8 cards, and when one leaves play (your deck, or the discard pile) another fills that spot.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All are fairly easy to pick up, especially if you have played CCGs before or one of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion is probably the most well known and most played, as it's been around longer and there are several (many...) expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like them all and while I played Thunderstone first, then learned the others, I think that they all can be quite fun.  Most game shops will probably have Dominion on their &quot;demo&quot; shelf.  Several around here have Thunderstone and Ascension as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-10-29T22:52:54.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T00:17:39.283" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a style of game that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chess&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; belongs to, as Jon already suggested, to which &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shogi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shogi&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Checkers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Checkers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halma&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halma&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; also belong. Modern family members are &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khet_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Khet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zertz&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZÈRTZ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and I think most other members of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GIPF_project&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GIPF&lt;/a&gt; project. These games have in common that, other than in Diplomacy where you have the written orders, all information is openly visible - except of course the secret plans plotted by your opponent. They are also all fairly abstract games, in that they do not pretend to model any aspect of the real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2010-10-30T15:40:37.953" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T15:40:37.953" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T01:48:08.783" Score="27" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blokus.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blokus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A personal favourite, You could try it online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blokus.com/online-game/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-31T07:35:04.397" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T07:35:04.397" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T01:50:31.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/boardgames/endeavor.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endeavor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also prefer games that have little to no randomness. One of the best ones I've come across lately is Endeavor. Other than the initial tile distribution (which isn't tremendously significant, just changes it up a bit), there's no randomness at all. One of my favorite games right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T01:50:31.637" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:11:48.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crokinole&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crokinole&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dexterity game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="23" LastEditorUserId="23" LastEditDate="2010-11-01T01:01:36.690" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T01:01:36.690" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T02:13:50.890" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_checkers&quot;&gt;Chinese Checkers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/H1&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the same vein as Checkers, but popular and distinct enough I felt it warranted its own post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T02:13:50.890" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T04:09:41.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/594/sleuth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;h2&gt;Sleuth&lt;/h2&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deduction game that uses cards, but they have small impact on the game, since you usually have plays that will be useful, and when you don't you can trade them all in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T04:09:41.657" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T07:22:29.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1198/set&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No luck at all, just plain skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T07:22:29.740" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2010-10-30T07:24:28.443" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the edit, there are two parts to the remaining question: &quot;When have you definitely lost?&quot; and &quot;How can you tell when you've probably lost?&quot;.  The first is easier to answer than the second, so I'll start with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimum you can roll on a go is a two and a one (note that a double one would give you four moves).  The maximum is double six.  So (assuming all pieces have passed each other) you can determine if you have definitely lost by assuming you will roll double sixes for the rest of the game, and assuming your opponent will roll two/ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be really nice to include a formula here that takes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/glossary.html#pip_count&quot;&gt;pip count&lt;/a&gt;, piece count and whose turn it is, and computes if you've definitely lost, but such a formula escapes me.  There are some situations that depend on more than these three variables - for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|24  23  22    |24  23  22&#xA;+---+---+---   +---+---+---&#xA;| O   O        | O       O&#xA;| O   O        | O&#xA;|              | O&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both these finishing positions the pip count and piece count are the same.  However the maximum number of rolls to finish is two in the left hand picture, but three in the right hand picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main metrics of backgammon positions (other than pip count).  These are the Thorp count and the Kleinman ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Thorp count is calculated for each player as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with the pip count.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 2 for each checker still on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 1 for each checker on the 1 point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subtract 1 for each occupied home board point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player on roll's count is greater than 30, multiply by 1.1. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+158&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; explaining how the Thorp count can be used to estimate the game winning probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kleinman ratio is calculated as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(D * D) / S&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where D is the pip count difference of the two players, plus 4 to compensate for the player on roll's additional pips; and S is the pip count sum, minus 4 to compensate for the player on roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+700&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; explaining how the Kleinman ratio can be used to estimate the game winning probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally there is an article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+500&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; which overlaps the previous two, but which recommends using the Kleinman ratio over the Thorp count assuming you are able to learn a large table of logarithms!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-30T15:32:05.090" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T15:32:05.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T08:01:26.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%2AStar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;*Star&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strategy game that looks good too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-10-31T07:38:02.007" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T07:38:02.007" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2010-10-30T09:59:13.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to get rid of the board altogether and just try to answer a question of every category correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T09:59:13.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T10:00:10.697" Score="11" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caylus&quot;&gt;Caylus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only random element within Caylus is the initial 6 buildings setup order. The rest of the game is pure skill. As with the Endeavor answer, there is a very very small advantage that may be had by going first with order of the buildings, but I think this adds more variety and skill to the game rather than luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T10:00:10.697" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T15:05:45.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Game_of_Thrones_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge the game has only 1 random event - flipping the Westeros cards.  This randomness can be nearly entlrely removed via the optional &quot;Westeros Phase&quot; rule variant in the &lt;em&gt;A Clash of Kings&lt;/em&gt; expansion (which allows you to see the results of the random card flip several turns in advance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the Westeros cards, everything is based on player skill. Games regularly feature numerous epic staredowns and healthy backstabbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is based on Diplomacy (and in my opinion is much better).  If you like Diplomacy you will probably love this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T15:05:45.153" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1060" CreationDate="2010-10-30T15:15:27.340" Score="22" ViewCount="7637" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last Puerto Rico game I played I wound up with all corn. I tried to make this work with the following strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Office + large market + small market for income&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harbor + wharf to ship all my corn for maximum points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This didn't work as well as I had hoped. In particular, even with the markets my income was lower than any other players, so it took me a long time to build the other buildings I needed for this strategy. I didn't get the large building I wanted, and I never occupied it. At the end of the game I did have the most point chips of any player, but the other players more than made up for it with their large buildings and other bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an alternate strategy that would make all-corn a viable route to victory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T20:06:27.663" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T12:14:24.923" Title="Is there a viable corn-only strategy for Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2010-10-30T15:23:23.627" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;With most games of this type, the key to winning is balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Puerto Rico strategy is to think of the game in 3 equal strategic phases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phase 1 - get money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phase 2 - get money/VPs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phase 3 - get VPs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a corn only strategy work, but only if you are playing against below-par players. But to get money in phase 1, corn doesn't really help you. To be able to make victory points in phase 2 and 3, a corn only strategy really stops you from preventing your opponents from shipping. Whilst a Wharf will help you, it will not be enough to win in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing against solid players, balance is the only option. I try to have 3 to 4 different goods being brought in, which gives great options for shipping and selling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="5911" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T12:14:24.923" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T12:14:24.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T16:06:39.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9675/la-strada&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;La Strada&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got a great diversity of initial setups, but once the game starts there's no chance at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T16:06:39.443" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T16:08:50.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6411/blokus-3d&quot;&gt;Rumis&lt;/a&gt; (aka Blokus 3D)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Blokus, no luck; an advantage to going first (more so than in Blokus), but a great game of strategy with simple rules but very interesting consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T16:08:50.413" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1068" CreationDate="2010-10-30T17:09:33.970" Score="13" ViewCount="5698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought the Rio Grande/Alea Games Treasure Chest box set to get the Puerto Rico and San Juan expansions, but the boxed set comes with other expansions for games I have never played, and most likely will never play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to deal with the hassle of selling them on eBay, and want to make sure the expansions go to go homes, so are there any sites where users can list their haves and wants for board and/or card game trading?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T20:47:31.357" Title="Good sites for trading unwanted board/card games and expansions?" Tags="|trading|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-03-27T20:28:42.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1066" CreationDate="2010-10-30T19:37:13.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used the features there, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; has &quot;haves/wants&quot; features and from what I understand there is plenty of trading that occurs among users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T19:37:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1066" CreationDate="2010-10-30T20:47:31.357" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; provides several ways to sell or trade boardgames online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is to simply list it as available for trade. Once you have an account on BoardGameGeek, at the bottom of every game page you can add the game to your collection (click on the &quot;user info&quot; link at the top to get there quickly; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4098/age-of-steam#collection&quot;&gt;for example&lt;/a&gt;). You can then click &quot;add a copy to your collection&quot; to list the fact that you own the game, and then fill in information on it; check boxes to indicate that you're willing to trade the game, fill in information on the condition of the game, etc. For games that you would like in trade, again go to the page for the game, go down to the &quot;user info&quot;, click &quot;record information&quot;, and check the &quot;want in trade&quot; box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've filled in some games you have available for trade, and want in trade, you can try and find trades. Go to the &quot;My Geek&quot; menu at the top, and select the &quot;Trades&quot; option. This will bring you to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/trade&quot;&gt;Trade Manager&lt;/a&gt;, where you can find potential trades and track the process of trades in progress. Click &quot;Direct Matches&quot; to find people who have games for trade that you want, and who want games that you have for trade. You'll likely get a long list of matches, telling you what games they want and what games they have. You can then propose a trade with them, which will send them a GeekMail proposing the trade, that they can accept or decline. If they accept, you work out the shipping details with them, and then send each other the games. If you leave games listed as available for trade, other people who find them through the trade finder may also initiate trades with you, so if you're hoping to trade some games, check back relatively often to see if you get any GeekMail with trade offers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other ways to trade games via BGG. Some of the popular ones are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/94566/a-guide-to-ultimate-trade-lists&quot;&gt;&quot;ultimate trades&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Math_Trades&quot;&gt;&quot;math trades&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. The principle behind both is the same, to try and create circular trades, though the mechanism is different. The idea is that if you have game A and want game B, you might not be able to find someone who has game B and wants game A; but there might be one person who has game B and wants game C, and another who has C and wants A, so you can do a circular trade, where you send A to the person who wants it, he sends C to the person who wants it, and that person sends B to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimate trades are generally posted as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/GeekLists&quot;&gt;GeekList&lt;/a&gt;, where someone starts the trade off by listing a game that he has for trade (so, it will start off as a list of one item). Then anyone who wants that game will come along, and post a new game that they would offer up for the original game (the new game should be of roughly equal value, or if it's a bit cheaper than you might also throw in a &quot;sweetener&quot; of a cheap game to even it out). This goes on, with each person in turn saying that they'll be willing to take the last item in exchange for a new one that they post. Eventually, the person who started the trade will see a game he likes, and close the loop by saying that he'll take that game. Then everyone shares shipping information with the person before them in the list, and sends their games to the people who claimed them. You can find examples of ultimate trades by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;objecttype=geeklist&amp;amp;q=ultimate+trade&amp;amp;searchfield=title&amp;amp;showbody=1&quot;&gt;searching for such GeekLists&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Math trades are a generalization of ultimate trades. The problem with ultimate trades is that they'll sometimes lose steam before you complete a loop, and so you will never complete them; or sometimes people have games to trade but don't want to initiate an ultimate trade nor do they find an existing, open one with games that they want. In a math trade, each person lists one or more games that they have for trade. Once they've done so, a list of games available is compiled, and everyone lists, for each game they have available for trades, one or more games from the list that they would like in exchange. Once all of this information has been submitted, someone runs one of several tools that will crunch all of the numbers, and try and find a set of trades that will maximize the total number of trades completed. It may find one big circular trade, but more likely it will find several smaller cycles, that satisfy more people than one big circular trade would have been able to. Then you all exchange shipping information, and ship the games. You can find examples of math trades by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;objecttype=geeklist&amp;amp;q=math+trade&amp;amp;searchfield=title&amp;amp;showbody=1&quot;&gt;searching for them&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these trading methods allow you to leave feedback on the reliability of the person you're trading with, just like eBay. I've only done a few trades through BGG, but I've found everyone that I've dealt with honest and prompt about shipping their games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geekstore.php3?action=manageaccount&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek Marketplace&lt;/a&gt;, where you can buy and sell games. If you list games for sale on there, they will appear on each game page, so people interested in the game can buy them quickly and easily. I have never used the marketplace, so I can't speak about it much, but you can find some more info on it on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/BGG_Marketplace&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And not exactly trade related, but similar, are the Secret Santa or other gift exchanges that go on. These are usually intended for new games (thus not directly relevant for trading purposes), but they are good ways for sharing your love for games with others. They will frequently be started as threads listing the rules for the exchange (the target price point for the games, any theme or other restrictions), and people can sign up to be given targets. It used to be run manually through GeekMail, but now there is a tool for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geekexchange/browse&quot;&gt;creating and browsing gift exchanges&lt;/a&gt;, which can be private or public.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T20:47:31.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1270" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:10:19.723" Score="5" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;To improve, I'd like to read game records of professional players, and to understand these commentaries would be useful. Do you know if these game commentaries exist, and where I can find them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T11:53:02.353" Title="Where can I read Mahjong game commentaries?" Tags="|mahjong|professional|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:21:08.277" Score="65" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go is an ancient game; at least 2500 years old, and possibly as old as 4500 or more. Originally from China, it is now most popular, and professionally played, in China, Japan, and Korea, though there are strong and growing amateur communities in Europe and the Americas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go is a simple, pure abstract strategy game, with no element of luck or hidden information. The rules are quire short and simple; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://homepages.cwi.nl/~tromp/go.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simplest expression of the basic rules&lt;/a&gt; is 10 sentences long, though &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~wjh/go/rules/AGA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; that cover a few extra conventions for ending the game sooner and making scoring easier, and provide more detailed explanation, are a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the simplicity of the rules, it is extremely strategically deep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starting player has a slight advantage in Go, which would give a slight luck-based advantage to who goes first, but because winning is based on total territory scored, you can even that advantage out by giving the second player &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Komi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a few extra points&lt;/a&gt;; generally somewhere between 5 and 8 extra points, with the number having drifted upwards a little in recent years as people have discovered that the original amount was still a bit too low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the great features about Go is that it allows you to play handicapped games against strong or weaker players. By letting one player start with a few extra stones on the board, you can even out a difference in skill, and still have an interesting game even though one player is considerably stronger than the other. This is great for small clubs or tournaments, when you don't have enough players of roughly equal level to compete against each other; instead you can play handicap games, and everyone has a chance to win while playing at their own skill level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go is a beautiful game, with a great balance between whole board strategy and local tactical battles. It has been studied deeply for centuries, and new innovative ways of playing are always being discovered. In recent years, &lt;a href=&quot;http://math.berkeley.edu/~berlek/cgt/gobook.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mathematical analysis of the endgame&lt;/a&gt; using the theory of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surreal_number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;surreal numbers&lt;/a&gt; has yielded insights that have helped even top professional players, who have devoted their life to learning the game, and have teacher lineages going back hundreds of years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could wax poetic about Go for hours, so I'll stop here, and invite you to check it out. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; gives a good overview, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt; is a wiki devoted to Go. There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoBook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;hundreds of books on Go&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hikaru_no_Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manga and anime series about it&lt;/a&gt;, professional players and teachers, &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Insei&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;schools&lt;/a&gt; devoted to teaching young Go players, &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoServers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;servers for online play&lt;/a&gt;, Go clubs all over the place, and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="14415" LastEditDate="2017-02-04T06:52:25.030" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T06:52:25.030" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:22:28.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest ruleset is Hong Kong Old Style (HKOS). It has simple scoring and very few special hands. Other forms may have few special hands but complex scoring - or simple scoring but many special hands to learn - or complex scoring &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; many special hands to learn (like American Mahjong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want even simpler rules, have a look at these &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sloperama.com/mjfaq/mjfaq02.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ultra-simplified Chinese rules&lt;/a&gt;. They even omit Kan and most of scoring, so you can understand and explain them in a few minutes. From experience I would say they are a good way to start. Once you got the basics, you can gradually add more rules of the HKOS set, and eventually also have a look at other rulesets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I especially like about the ultra-simplified rules is how scoring works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whoever won gets a chip or a coin from&#xA;  everybody. Or just use the &quot;ooh and&#xA;  aah&quot; method. When somebody wins,&#xA;  everybody goes &quot;ooh.&quot; You can keep&#xA;  track of score on a piece of paper&#xA;  too. Make a tick mark next to the&#xA;  winner's name. Whatever works for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you want to make things really&#xA;  exciting, award an extra chip, coin,&#xA;  or &quot;aah&quot; for a pung of dragons or&#xA;  winds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you want to recognize dragon or&#xA;  wind pungs for all players (not only&#xA;  for the player who goes mah-jongg),&#xA;  you can do that. It might be possible&#xA;  for a non-winning player to get a&#xA;  higher score than a winner, if you&#xA;  allow this. But that's OK, if you like&#xA;  it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2010-10-30T21:27:47.743" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T21:27:47.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:29:40.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12995/dungeon-twister&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dungeon Twister&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An unusual 2-player dungeon-crawl game.  Some luck in the initial setup (the board is random), but pure skill once the game starts.  Looks like Descent, but plays nothing like it - it's a game of positional advantage and smart maneuver.  Has a simple and effective handicap system - which is needed, as experience pays off in a big way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T21:29:40.407" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:33:37.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Icehouse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Icehouse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as Brian added Go, I'll get ahead of him on Icehouse for once.  A turnless game of pure skill and diplomacy.  (Also consider IceTowers and Zendo, which use the same pieces.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T21:33:37.860" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="487" CreationDate="2010-10-30T21:50:17.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there is an (unlikely) situation when the sabotage run is strategically sensible: When the fighters are of no value to you, you might as well throw them away on the off-chance.  This could happen if you're definitely about to lose the carriers/fighter bases, or if the war sun's about to do something that will lose you the game - you might as well go for the long shot.  (Never seen a situation where it makes sense happen though.  But we always allow the optional rule.  Many Star Wars fans in our group.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T21:50:17.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T22:28:48.553" Score="12" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Homeworlds&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homeworlds is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icehouse game&lt;/a&gt; about space conquest. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Homeworlds/HomeworldsRules.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;multi-player game&lt;/a&gt;, there is hidden information about who is good and who is evil, and thus there is a certain element of luck in your guess about who is who. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Binary_Homeworlds&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;two player game&lt;/a&gt;, however, there is no luck; it is a pure abstract strategy game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Andy/Games/ILoveHomeworlds.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andy Looney on Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I really like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Ginohn/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Cooper&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icehouse game&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Ginohn/games/Homeworlds/HomeworldsRules.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homeworlds&lt;/a&gt;. I think it's one of the very best Icehouse games we currently have. It's elegant and exciting, it looks great on the table, it's different every time, the theme rocks, and it makes excellent use of the pyramids. One of my criteria for a perfect Icehouse game is that it offer deep strategy while using little or no equipment other than the pyramids, especially including using the table itself as a featureless gameboard. Homeworlds is a perfect Icehouse game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where Chess is an abstract pure strategy game representing medieval warfare between kings, Homeworlds is an abstract pure strategy game representing interstellar warfare between planets. In both games, complicated forces have been reduced to elegant icons, but where Chess is played on a restrictive, 64-square grid, Homeworlds creates a free-form, dynamic space-map out of any plain surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whereas Chess was a game played by Renaissance Kings, Homeworlds is a game for Starship Captains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T22:28:48.553" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T23:48:22.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27833/steam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Steam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only luck element is the initial distribution of goods, but it's shared by everybody equally and I think it helps replayability. Also the initial turn order used to auction the real first turn order. After that it's all there on the table, no more luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4098/age-of-steam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Age of Steam&lt;/a&gt; has much more luck, with semi-random goods going to the cities during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2010-10-30T23:56:13.303" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T23:56:13.303" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-10-30T23:55:19.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20/full-metal-planete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Full Métal Planète&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wargame reimagined by boardgame designers! Combat involves absolutely no luck: Two attackers will clean out any enemy piece, no questions asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one small element of luck though: The tide, which impacts the board layout. However as long as you keep your weather-predicting piece, you know the tide for the next turn, so this mitigates luck down to almost nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2010-10-30T23:55:19.903" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1110" CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:31:11.317" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I have played about a dozen games of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16496/roma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roma&lt;/a&gt;, and it seems pretty consistent that the player with the most forum cards wins. They're just the fastest way to collect victory points. Has anybody successfully fought back against a player who has more forum cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T20:44:44.087" LastActivityDate="2019-04-20T12:17:33.040" Title="Any defense against the forum cards in Roma?" Tags="|roma|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1084" CreationDate="2010-10-31T04:33:22.683" Score="11" ViewCount="10535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I.e., Do you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll reinforcement die, and add troops to make the short fall?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare the number of troops you're using, and use the reinforcement die in an attempt to bolster your numbers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T15:03:09.993" Title="In Small World, with berserk, do you roll reinforcement die before you nominate how many troops you're attacking with?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-10-31T05:03:09.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great book called &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0806959150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Super Party Games&lt;/a&gt; that describes a bunch of games that can be played by groups of 10 or more. I generated a set of puzzles for one of the games described in the book. Each player is given a sheet of paper that they tie to their forehead where they can't see it. On each sheet of paper are three letters, and you have to arrange yourselves to spell out a secret quote without telling anybody what letters are on their heads. You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/donkirkby/wiki/FortunePuzzles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;download the puzzles&lt;/a&gt; and print out one of the puzzles for your group size. If you don't mind being excluded from the game, you could find a quote related to babies and make your own puzzle for the people at the party to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T05:03:09.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2010-10-31T06:14:11.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that in general Codemwnci's answer is a good one (+1), but I think the one thing missing from the discussion is that the game length in Puerto Rico is variable.  If you are playing with only corn, but other people are also aiming to ship large quantities of goods then the game may end earlier than usual due to lack of VP chips.  One way to try to improve your chances is to encourage others to invest in shippable goods, and also the other wharf/harbour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sidenote: Whenever someone seems to be going for an all out corn strategy I feel obligated to quote Teen Girl Squad - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homestarrunner.com/tgs10.swf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;It's Corn and Corn Alone Day!&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.  In my experience this starts to get thin on the third repetition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T06:14:11.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-10-31T06:41:08.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reinforcement die with Berserk provides a &quot;discount&quot; on the number required to take a given territory. It's just like a reinforcement roll at the end of a regular turn. That means you must be able to take the territory with your available troops plus 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got 5 counters and you want to take a territory that's got 2 counters on it and a mountain. That's 5:&#xA; - 2 for any space&#xA; - 2 for the counters&#xA; - 1 for the mountain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You roll 2 reinforcements. You take the territory with 3 counters. That leaves you 2 counters. If you now wanted to take an identical territory, it would be your final attack, because you would now be making an ordinary reinforcement roll at the end of your turn - because you couldn't take the territory if the reinforcements fail you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T06:41:08.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1080" CreationDate="2010-10-31T15:03:09.993" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Roll the die first; select the Region you wish to conquer; then place the required number of Race tokens (minus the die results) there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you roll the die even before you decide what to attack, it would seem very unlikely that you'd need to determine the number of attackers beforehand. This is further bolstered by &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/391216/what-we-know-so-far-clarification-of-rules&quot;&gt;a thread at the BoardGameGeek forums&lt;/a&gt; where a lot of Small World rules clarifications posted by the game developers are gathered. This is what it says about &lt;em&gt;Berserk&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may roll the die &lt;em&gt;once&lt;/em&gt; per attack. &lt;strong&gt;First, you roll the die. Then you choose an adjacent territory. Then, you deploy your tokens.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(emphasis added - ErikP)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;About the final roll, there is a very important sentence in the rulebook, in the &quot;Berserk&quot; section: &quot;If you do not have enough tokens left, this is your final conquest attempt for the turn.&quot; This sentence means that there is no &quot;end-turn&quot; die. For each conquest you roll the die and select your region: if you do not have enough tokens left, then your turn is over. You are not allowed to re-roll the die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T15:03:09.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1087" CreationDate="2010-10-31T15:12:34.803" Score="25" ViewCount="12913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing a fair amount of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; with the basic tiles and the original River expansion. What other expansion packs will add a bit of variety to the game but without changing the character too much? I've heard &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2993/carcassonne-inns-cathedrals&quot;&gt;Inns and Cathedrals&lt;/a&gt; is pretty good but don't know about any of the others. I'm especially interested in any that work well with 2 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T06:00:20.680" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T20:54:55.470" Title="What expansions for Carcassonne add variety without changing the character too much?" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2010-10-31T15:28:34.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne is one of &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; most expanded board games around. Last time I checked there were 8 full expansions, and 10 mini-expansions. The River is an example of a mini-expansion, and Inns and Cathedrals an example of a full expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only played a few of these expansions, so cannot offer my view of them all, but when choosing an expansion, I went for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/5405/carcassonne-traders-builders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Traders and Builders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It adds a little more dynamism to the game by encouraging cities to be completed sooner, and makes farming more beneficial. This generally suits my preferred style of game, which is why we bought it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other expansion bring different dynamics to the game. I would encourage you to check out the link below, and see which one sounds good to you, and hopefully others who have used other expansions can tell you their findings as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full list can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne_%28board_game%29#Expansions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:32:21.317" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T04:32:21.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2010-10-31T15:30:59.093" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/5405/carcassonne-traders-builders&quot;&gt;Carcassonne: Traders &amp;amp; Builders&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance with the builder to draw two tiles can make a huge impact on the game so it adds a dimension all on it's own. I however personally prefer not playing with the Traders part (the cloth, wine and grain tokens) just the builder and the tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/66646/carcassonne-bridges-castles-and-bazaars&quot;&gt;Carcassonne: Bridges, Castles, and Bazaars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridges makes for some interesting escapes and castles is a new fun thing to do with those small cities. As above I preferably skip parts of this expansion which is Bazaars (tile auction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2993/carcassonne-inns-cathedrals&quot;&gt;Carcassonne: Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty straight forward expansion that adds Inns (a road with an inn somewhere along it's path is worth 2 points when complete (0 if left unfinished) per tile. Cathedrals are in cities and makes the city tiles worth 3 points if completed (0 if not completed) per tile. Great ways to remove others points if drawn late in the game. Also the big meeple/guy is in here iirc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/18836/carcassonne-the-river-ii&quot;&gt;Carcassonne: The River II&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one, unlike first expansion can split and create two streams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I just recently started added &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/38431/carcassonne-the-cult&quot;&gt;Carcassonne: The Cult&lt;/a&gt; to my bag. Works just like cloisters but if you put it next to a cloister only the one scoring first gets any points. So far it's fun but it's only some 5 tiles or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2010-10-31T15:41:19.133" LastActivityDate="2010-10-31T15:41:19.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1109" CreationDate="2010-11-01T08:26:33.200" Score="22" ViewCount="17432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably you would trade in tiles if you thought you would get in one turn, after trading, more than what you'll get in the next two turns without trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then, maybe you should make defensive plays even in some of those situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T15:39:15.723" Title="Do great Scrabble players ever turn in their tiles?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-01T09:17:30.033" Score="22" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1917/stratego&quot;&gt;Stratego&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stratego may seem like a slightly strange choice since each game involves a completely a hidden setup, but it's a setup entirely devised by the opponent with distinct strategies, counter-strategies and bluffs available. If there's an element of luck it's in trying to guess your opponent's approach to a setup, but there are no dice rolls for combat or drawing of positions involved. First-move advantage is also minimal, and certainly seems less important than in chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T09:17:30.033" CommentCount="13" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-11-01T11:33:28.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One game that has &quot;not yet had time to, but...&quot; has the seeds of depth is &lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's too new to really have the depth of community analysis we're talking about here yet.  Yet it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have an entrenched and widespread community, multiple (electronic and board) reimplementations, and the strategic depth to support serious analysis.  (For example, a moment's web search reveals numerous articles on the mathematics of resource exploitation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be interested to see where it is in thirty years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2011-01-07T16:25:24.453" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T16:25:24.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-11-01T11:39:44.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a two-player game, but don't miss Space Alert.  It's a high-pressure game of cooperation and coordination (4-5 players cooperate to defend their spaceship).  The challenge comes from the need to coordinate actions under tight time pressure.  (If one player fires the main starboard gun four moves in a row to fend off a threat, someone else had better have thought to go down to engineering and divert power to recharge it... or come order resolution, it's going to go 'pffft' instead of 'zap'.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like playing RoboRally while &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; not to bump into the other players... but with no time to talk over all your moves in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has a group scoring system too; you're encouraged to keep track of the group's triumphs and deaths for future comparison.  Level of difficulty is higly customisable; more so than in Pandemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T11:39:44.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-11-01T11:44:48.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm hosting a large party I also find it's useful to have several different fast 4-15 player games out, so that people can circulate in and out of game-playing and casual conversation.&#xA;With that in mind: I'd start with Apples to Apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T11:44:48.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2010-11-01T11:45:45.210" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely situational, and I wouldn't call myself &quot;great&quot;, but I have traded in tiles before, for a number of reasons --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm behind, and I have a hand full of either all vowels or all consonants (usually all consonants)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm one letter away from a bingo, and I've calculated that I have a good chance of drawing that letter.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, using or blocking a triple-word-score tile trumps swapping in tiles, but if I have a really bad hand, swapping tiles is always an option, especially if I can't block the triple-word or worse, even use low-point tiles on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the tournament reports I have read (or the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slate.com/id/2152255&quot;&gt;&quot;830! How a carpenter got the highest Scrabble score ever&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, trading in tiles is a not-uncommon occurrence if you think you can get a better word out of it, especially a bingo.  In fact, according to the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cresta then traded in all seven of his tiles in the hope of getting more-playable letters, not an unusual move.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T11:45:45.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1097" CreationDate="2010-11-01T15:31:17.897" Score="15" ViewCount="2829" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is one player allowed to build the same building more than once in Puerto Rico? If so, do the bonuses stack, so that a player building both Large Markets would get +4 for trading? I wasn't able to find anything in the rulebook that specified this either way. My play group ruled that you can't build the same building multiple times, on the grounds that some of the bonuses seem overpowered if you can double up on them (e.g. Harbor), and other bonuses make no sense if applied more than once (e.g. Construction Hut). Is there any official rule on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:26:28.823" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T23:26:28.823" Title="Can you build the same building more than once in Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1095" CreationDate="2010-11-01T15:37:24.283" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brettspielwelt.de/Hilfe/Anleitungen/PuertoRico/?nation=en&quot;&gt;the rules for the online version on BrettspielWelt&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;no player may build a building more than once.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can confirm this by looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_4_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;the official rules from Rio Grande&lt;/a&gt;, page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For all buildings:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - Each player may build each building only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T15:37:24.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="826" CreationDate="2010-11-01T15:38:18.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure there's no official rule, but increasing the victory point target seems basically mandatory if you want the whole game to develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T15:38:18.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2010-11-01T16:34:58.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only expansion I have besides the original River is Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, but I'd say it's a necessity. In addition to ramping up the stakes and adding some interesting tiles, it adds the big meeple, with adds a lot of fun to hostile takeovers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T16:34:58.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="826" CreationDate="2010-11-01T17:00:38.627" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?Seafarers_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Seafarers (pdf)&lt;/a&gt; do not address combining the two expansions. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?CaK_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Cities and Knights (pdf)&lt;/a&gt; do address combining the two games (page 13), warning that only certain scenarios work well, and providing rules for things like how to treat ships as roads and how a knight can chase away the pirate. They do not, however, specify how many victory points to play to. The FAQ on combining the two expansions addresses a few questions, but not the victory point question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/113576/settlers-seafarers-cities-knights-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; about combining the two expansions, in which two separate people mention that the official rule is to add 2 victory points to the Seafarers scenario if you're playing with Cities and Knights. According to Daniel Johnson:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Klaus Teuber's website has a FAQ at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.klausteuber.com/en/index.php?page=seefahrer_staedte_und_ritter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.klausteuber.com/en/index.php?page=seefahrer_staedte_und_ritter.html&lt;/a&gt; with a few questions that might not be answered by the Almanac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2. The victory point goal should be 2 more than in the Seafarers scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly, the site linked to seems to have been reorganized, and that link just redirects to the home page of &lt;a href=&quot;http://catan.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;catan.com&lt;/a&gt;. However, this seems to be the best answer that is available so far; to add two victory points to the conditions listed in the Seafarers scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never tried this, as I tend to prefer not to combine expansions in games. I find that in general, combining too many expansions makes a game bog down too much. I love Seafarers, and find Cities and Knights nice too, but combining them would just add too many extra things to think about, and too many confusing interactions (like this one) that need to be answered in separate rules, FAQs, and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="32032" LastEditDate="2020-11-10T08:03:35.277" LastActivityDate="2020-11-10T08:03:35.277" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-11-01T18:26:52.593" Score="28" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Share in other people's structures&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can persuade other players that you're working &lt;b&gt;with&lt;/b&gt; them on a structure (usually a city), then you can get all the points for half the effort.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in a three player game, if you score 10 point for a city with opponent A and 10 points for a different city with opponent B, then you score 20 points in total, leaving them on 10 points each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; It's possible to put in less than half the effort - just one tile could suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T18:26:52.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-11-01T19:48:24.193" Score="22" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Place your meeples so you'll get them back quickly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to maximise your meeples throughput i.e. don't place them on tiles where you won't see them again until the end of the game. My tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cities that you you can complete easily. Avoid having two meeples in cities where you'll need the same tile type to complete them (unless you're hoping to steal some city points from someone else)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The same with roads: it's rarely worth having 2 on the go at once, since you'll very likely only be developing 1 at a time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monastries are great for the start of the game, not always so good at the midpoint if you won't get the meeple back, but can be useful again in the last few moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't worry much about farmers for the first quarter of the game until a few cities have taken shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always keep one meeple for quick &quot;place and score&quot; wins, like 4-point cities and short roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic principle is you want each meeple to do as much work as possible rather than being stranded on incomplete towns, roads and monastaries or farming an area that will never be developed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="231" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T19:48:24.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1026" CreationDate="2010-11-01T21:49:27.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Glory to Rome, I find the general answer to &quot;Can I do X?&quot; questions is yes.  Your question follows that pattern, or else I'd be very surprised for this reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were forced to have a valid move at the time that you followed, then you could never really follow a legionnaire, because you might have your hand reduced to nothing but jacks, in which case you couldn't actually demand anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2010-11-01T21:49:27.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-11-02T01:12:47.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this is not really a board or card game, but I think it could be fun for you to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one of my friend's baby showers, they played this game where they removed the labels on a few jars of baby food. Then, each guest (that wanted to play) had a taste from each jar. The goal was to try and correctly guess the type of baby food in each jar. And, they gave the winners - the top 2 or 3 people with the most correct answers - some prizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, not a BCG, but could definitely be fun, and memorable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="100" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T01:12:47.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-11-02T03:43:03.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a wonderful free party game called a number of names, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30618/eat-poop-you-cat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eat P**p You Cat&lt;/a&gt; which is best described as the love child of Pictionary and the telephone game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is hilarious and requires only pencils and paper for each participant. It requires no skill and can be explained in two minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T03:43:03.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2010-11-02T04:42:02.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you bet.  Read some of the books - Word Freak is a fun one.  If you aren't going for bingos, you should be - if you can't get play the tiles in your hand that are keeping from getting a bingo, dump 'em.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="csjoholm" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T04:42:02.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1132" CreationDate="2010-11-02T07:37:50.160" Score="15" ViewCount="108021" Body="&lt;p&gt;What card games work well with a large number of players (say 6+ players) and only require a standard pack of playing cards?  I'm particularly interested in games where the rules can be explained fairly quickly, but there is still a reasonable level of tactics.  Also it would be preferable if the game can be played in a single room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One game per answer please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T23:40:09.217" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T23:40:09.217" Title="What games are suitable for a large number of people with only a pack of playing cards?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-01-10T23:41:06.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-02T12:16:37.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have enough players (8+) you can play werewolf with playing cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clubs 2-9 == Wolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hearts 2-9 == Villagers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack of clubs == Hunter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack of diamonds == Thief&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Queen of hearts == Cupid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Queen of spades == Witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;King of diamonds == Seer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ace of Spades == Mayor marker&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T12:16:37.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2010-11-02T12:46:33.553" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, most definitely.  A good write up on exchange strategy can be found in Joe Edley's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=Uml_kpOO64gC&amp;amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;amp;dq=everything+scrabble&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ei=GwPQTIfRFoKC8gbewLHlBg&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;oi=book_result&amp;amp;ct=result&amp;amp;resnum=1&amp;amp;ved=0CDcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot;&gt;Everything Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;, pg. 89 and following.  Tournament players do exchange significantly less than they did when Everything Scrabble was first written, since the recent (well, not that recent any more, 2006) addition of &lt;code&gt;QI&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;ZA&lt;/code&gt; to the official Scrabble lexicon have made moves like exchanging only Q less favorable statistically.  However, good players will also know when it is right to &quot;fish,&quot; that is, make a nearly worthless play to get rid of certain tiles in order to greatly increase their probability of bingoing on the next turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great way to get some idea of the frequency with which championship players exchange is to look at some of the games from board 1 of the most recent National Scrabble Championships; all of the games are online in turn by turn form &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabble-assoc.com/games/nsc2010/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Many of the words in these games will be unfamiliar, but if you want an idea of what &lt;em&gt;great&lt;/em&gt; Scrabble players do, that would be the best place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you should note that the best frequency with which players should exchange is going to depend on how large Scrabble word knowledge is (which is almost completely unrelated to your vocabulary).  In other words, based on the words that &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; know, how soon will you be able to turn your rack into a bingo rack?  If you can't see yourself doing that in the next two or three turns assuming average draws, then you should probably exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other time to exchange is if &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; legal play would make your rack worse.  For instance, if your opening rack is &lt;code&gt;AEINQST&lt;/code&gt;, your best play by far is &lt;code&gt;exch Q&lt;/code&gt;.  Doing so will give you a 95.7% chance of having a bingo on your rack the next turn, and probably even greater than that of bingoing, depending on what your opponent plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T12:46:33.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1079" CreationDate="2010-11-02T13:46:52.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mercator is usually a sure fire way to beat a forum machine, but there are defenses against that too.  (Siccarius and Gladiator both do very well.)  If you Haruspex the Mercator and you have a Consiliarius and/or Scaenicus in play you can usually win handily against a forum machine.  This will usually force your opponent to play offensive with Legionarius and the like.  (The money you use to buy VP can quickly turn against you if your opponent gets decent draws - but they have to realize it and stop spending their action dice on VPs and draw cards or else they will likely lose.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mercatus though isn't so good since you only get points for the # of forums your opponent has, while your opponent is typically generating more VP than they have forums on average.  It could be good in some situations but I personally have never seen it shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Forgive my spelling of card names, I don't have them at hand to verify.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="294" LastEditDate="2010-11-02T14:05:09.627" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T14:05:09.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1114" CreationDate="2010-11-02T14:24:07.523" Score="9" ViewCount="1138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a board game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strongfortress.com/board-games/farlanthia-lords-of-war/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Farlanthia: Lords of War&lt;/a&gt;. And I need some help with resolving diplomacy during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My original idea was to have Diplomacy be a form of &quot;attack&quot; like in RISK.  This would force another player to perform an action (like a trade, or peace treaty, etc.)  The idea is that each &quot;season&quot; you would send a diplomat to court, and politics would play out.  Sometimes things go your way, sometimes they don't.  This would allow me to use modifier cards (say, you have as prisoner a general from the other player, this would give you +2 in diplomacy with them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as was pointed out on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/564277/new-board-game-combining-risk-and-carcasonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; this isn't optimal for everyone.  So I'm considering adding in a voluntary portion where if both parties agree to the treaty at hand, it goes into place without die rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?  I'm just not sure how to arbitrate the rules of diplomacy during an otherwise concrete game if the diplomatic actions aren't just as concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[EDIT] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gamedev.stackexchange.com/questions/5125/resolving-diplomatic-actions-in-a-risk-style-board-game&quot;&gt;(Cross-posted to GameDev in case it isn't appropriate for here.)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="330" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:18:55.490" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T12:46:27.733" Title="Resolving Diplomatic actions in a RISK-style board game" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:14:27.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One game I have played in the recent past that had an &quot;attack via diplomacy&quot; mechanic was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15/cosmic-encounter&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cosmic Encounters&lt;/a&gt;.  In that game, any &quot;main&quot; player (i.e., attacker or defender) can play either an &quot;attack&quot; card or a &quot;negotiate&quot; card.  If both players play attack, then they resolve using the relative value of the cards.  If they both play negotiate, then they have 60 seconds to conclude a peace deal on terms acceptable to both, or they suffer the consequences for failure (ship loss).  Finally, if only player plays attack and the other plays negotiate, the attack player automatically 'wins', but the negotiate player is entitled to draw &quot;compensation&quot; from his attacker, taking from his hand a card for each of his ships that was lost as a result.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not suggesting that you rip off their mechanism wholesale, but it may serve as good inspiration to flip through the rules of that section, as they do lay out the terms for successful negotiations and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T15:14:27.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1112" CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:45:59.310" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question to consider is whether diplomacy should even be something that is directly handled by the game mechanics, or something that happens purely through negotiation between players with game mechanics that encourage negotiation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great example of this is, of course, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt;. There are no mechanics directly related to diplomacy (nothing that says you're in a treaty, or that diplomacy was successful or not), but the fact that moves are submitted simultaneously, and that you generally need support from multiple armies in order to take territory, means that you need to ally with other players in order to get ahead, and you need to place a certain amount of trust in them that they will do what they say; and those facts means that there are complex, shifting alliances throughtout the game, backstabbing, and negotiated two or three way wins at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good example of this style of encouraging diplomacy and backstabbing is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond simultaneous movement mechanics, another way to encourage diplomacy without adding it explicitly to the game it through trading. If people are able to trade resources at some point in their turn, like in Settlers of Catan, then they may be able to negotiate a non-aggression pact and/or trade some resources, giving the players who negotiate such a pact an advantage over the other players in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be wary of making diplomacy be something you roll for. It's very easy to add too much rolling for action resolution to the game. People will wonder when playing &quot;why can't I just negotiate directly, why do I have to roll randomly to negotiate, even when what I'm proposing is directly to the advantage of both players involved?&quot; Try to make the diplomatic aspect more of an emergent property of your game, which comes about not because of explicit rules, but because it's the most sensible way to play the game, and I think your players will enjoy it much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T15:45:59.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-02T15:52:16.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best large-group card game that I know of is &lt;em&gt;Up and Down the River&lt;/em&gt;, which Wikipedia knows as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oh,_hell&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oh, Hell&lt;/a&gt;. I find the rules given by Wikipedia to be confusing, though, and found a better set &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4510231_play-card-game-up-down.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here at eHow&lt;/a&gt;. (Note that both of these rulesets differ slightly from the version I'm familiar with, as there are endless variants of most of these games.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T15:52:16.587" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-02T17:32:04.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many poker variants, including the very popular &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Texas_hold_%27em&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Texas Hold'em&lt;/a&gt;, can support a large number of players. In Texas Hold'em, each player is dealt only two cards of their own, there are 5 community cards, and 3 burn cards, meaning that you could in theory support 22 players if you deal out all of the cards, though generally you play with 10 or fewer players on a table, maybe up to 12 or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does require something to bet with—chips, pennies, stones, dried beans, or any other form of counter—so it can't be played with just a deck of cards, but usually it's pretty easy to find some kind of betting counters. If you don't like gambling, you can play it as a tournament, in which each person gets a fixed number of chips and the last player left with chips wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T17:32:04.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:11:53.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of my (7yo) son's and my favorites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Go&lt;/strong&gt; : A 2-player strategy game with a built-in handicapping system. Within the first week or so, my little guy was able to hold his own with the greatest handicap applied to him, so it kept things fun for both of us.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rummy&lt;/strong&gt; : A traditional card game played with a single deck.  While not intensive strategy-wise, there is enough there to keep it fun even for adults.  I may be biased: I grew up playing rummy with my brother and grandmother. :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chinese Checkers&lt;/strong&gt; : Everybody loves checkers, right?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dominoes&lt;/strong&gt; : Like rummy, dominoes employs a balance of luck and strategy that gives everyone a chance to win (and a chance to lose) regardless of age.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mancala&lt;/strong&gt; : Though only for two players, this is a fun strategy game that is simple to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrabble&lt;/strong&gt; : In our house, younger players may play on a team with an older player, or get a limited number of poker chips or other counters at the beginning of each game which may later be traded for peeks at the dictionary for help choosing a word.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clue&lt;/strong&gt; : Some strategy involved, and some luck.  Great for teaching deductive reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Operation&lt;/strong&gt; : Being grown-up doesn't make your hands any steadier!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T18:11:53.807" CommentCount="5" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-04T20:23:32.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1129" CreationDate="2010-11-02T18:57:07.700" Score="26" ViewCount="17699" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like Twilight Imperium (3rd edition), but I haven't really enjoyed my time playing it due to the long playtimes.  I've played one 4-player game, two 6-player, and one 8-player game.  The shortest game was the 4p - it clocked in at 6.5 hours.  And that was with experienced players.  I don't feel like anyone had serious Analysis Paralysis during the game but approximately one hour per full game round is just ridiculous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to play the variant where everyone starts with several systems (neighbor systems are just given to you for free).  I do enjoy the early expansion part of the game, so I'm leery about trying that.  Are there any other suggestions for speeding up play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:11:54.913" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:11:54.913" Title="How can you make Twilight Imperium games not take forever?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1157" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:10:52.347" Score="18" ViewCount="2604" Body="&lt;p&gt;In game theory, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-sum&quot;&gt;zero-sum&lt;/a&gt; or constant-sum game is a game in which there is a single constant payoff that will be divided equally between the players; in order for one player to get a better result, one or more other players have to get worse results. For instance, in many games, there can be one winner and everyone else loses; there is a single &quot;win&quot; available. In others, you might have draws, but a draw could be considered as all of the given players splitting the win equally; for instance, in chess, a win is 1 point, a loss 0, and a draw 0.5 for each player. In some games, like poker, that constant payoff to split is 0; in order for one player to make money, another has to lose money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cooperative game is not be zero-sum. There are two possible outcomes; either everyone wins, or everyone loses. Thus, from the perspective of game theory, there is one outcome in which the total payoff for the players is greater than in another outcome. However, this is somewhat trivially non-zero sum; there aren't any interesting decisions that affect how much the total payoff is. Poker played at a casino, likewise, is non-zero sum as you are always losing the rake to the casino; but again, it's not in an interesting way as you don't make any interesting decisions that affect the total value of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all of these non-zero sum games could be made zero-sum if you consider the game itself or the house as a player; then there is one &quot;win&quot; split between the players and the game, or one pool of money split between the players and the casino. This is true of any non-zero-sum game; you can always posit an extra hypothetical player, or consider the interests of the house, whose gain or loss is the negative of the gain or loss of the players of the game. But it's still interesting to consider games as non-zero sum from the perspective of the players themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, are there any games which are non-zero sum in an interesting way? That is, in which players have to make interesting decisions during the game, that affect the total payoff of the game. For instance, a game in which, depending on the action of the players, the outcome could be that one player gets 10 points, or two players each get 8, or three players all get 7 points would be non-zero sum game; the total value of the game depends on decisions that the players make within the game. A game like Shadows over Camelot, which will randomly be zero-sum or non-zero sum depending on whether there's a traitor, isn't really interesting as the actions of the players don't affect what the possible payoffs are, only a random card chosen at the beginning affects this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only interested in actual fun playable games, not hypothetical mathematical examples, and only interested in how games are actually played in practice, not hypothetical tournament setups that you could play; in almost any game with a variable score, you could institute a system in which your absolute score in the game was used in the tournament results, but that's not the way that most tournaments I've seen are played. I want to know about games or tournament structures that people actually play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in order for this question to even make sense, there may need to be some kind of external value associated with the game; some metagame that the game is played within, such as a tournament or ranking system, or a gambling game in which the players in an individual game may wind up with more or less money than they started with. If so, please describe how this metagame works, and interacts with the outcome of individual games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T02:56:37.130" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T14:47:12.863" Title="Interesting non-zero-sum games" Tags="|recommendations|metagame|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-10-12T20:19:07.813" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:27:29.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw good tiles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this takes some luck, but there a few things you can do to improve your odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Work on a couple of projects requiring different tiles at the same time, e.g., a big city and a long road.  This increases your chances that your next tile will be useful somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know the tiles.  You don't have to count cards, but you can help complete your cities by knowing the common tiles that will fill a given hole.  More importantly, you need to know which tiles don't exist so you avoid leaving an impossible space.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Expand outward.  It's easier to place tiles when your cities and roads aren't constantly bumping into other features.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T19:27:29.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-02T19:34:51.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I understood your question correctly, but my first thought is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; tournament where the players are ranked by total score.  Every game is different due to the random tile draws and the total points available in a given game varies by how people play.  A tournament where multiple games are happening simultaneously leads to interesting decisions.  For example, someone seeking to maximize total points might choose to make a losing move in one game if it means more points overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By extension, I think this includes any game with a non-deterministic amount of points (e.g., Scrabble) played more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T19:34:51.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:33:09.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bantha.org/~develin/creights.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creights&lt;/a&gt; is a very engaging, Uno-like party game played with a standard deck.  It is about 70% luck and 30% skill, in my estimation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It scales easily to about 7-8 players, but requires two decks shuffled together with 5/6+ players.  It doesn't require those two decks to have the same backs, but make sure to remove a couple of 5s from the deck if you play with two decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T22:33:09.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:37:05.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/wbc/grognard.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grognards&lt;/a&gt; tournaments at WBC, which are 10 classic wargames using a scoring system where you get points not just for the win (10), but you also get 2 points for each game that every opponent you beat won.  This rewards players for beating good opponents, thereby keeping them from just finding new or poor players to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T22:37:05.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-02T22:52:08.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some 3+ player games in which you can play kingmaker are implicitly non-zero-sum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take Risk.  Let's say you make a habit of hosing anybody who dares to place in your continent, even if it's not the best move for you.  In a future game, the other players will be less likely to place in your continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, you gained an implicit advantage in future games, based on your reputation, even though you lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each game's outcome thus not only yields a zero-sum account of who won and who lost, but also yields reputational factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="172" LastEditDate="2010-11-02T23:06:58.000" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T23:06:58.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:20:53.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Civilization (base or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/177/advanced-civilization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advanced&lt;/a&gt;) plays well with 5-7 players, not a very broad range but better than nothing. Yes, 6-7 is ideal, but playing in 5 people is still good enough to be &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; the complete game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/hacker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hacker&lt;/a&gt; plays well with 4-6 people. You may like it or not, since there are a few design flaws - I find it mostly fun anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2010-11-02T23:20:53.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2010-11-02T23:37:02.220" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a diceless variant where every village has a &lt;strong&gt;worker&lt;/strong&gt;, we use glass beads to represent them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you create the village, place the worker in an empty tile next to it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of your turn&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you get one resource for each worker based on the tile it is on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Or&lt;/em&gt; you may skip acquisition to remove another player's worker (he'll be able to re-assign it at the end of his next turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of your turn, you may re-assign your workers (still into empty tiles next to their village)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cities have two workers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is very different from the original version, and very interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T03:57:14.860" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T03:57:14.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2010-11-03T01:42:32.300" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some minor tweaks that can help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Use the variant Imperial II from the expansion.  Tricky juggling of the turn order to ensure you get Imperial is one cause of delay in selection.  (Also, Imperial is badly designed and dull...)  That variant expects the goals to be face-up - which speeds the game up; everyone can see which vps they're aiming for later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Play to 1-2 fewer vps; that'll normally save a full turn, without damaging the endgame too badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Use a fixed board instead of dealing out; then the host can set up in advance and skip the board dealing phase. (FFG publish suggestions for this at the TI site.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Assign admin tasks to players - make one player in charge of the planets deck, one in charge of action cards, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/51608/ti3-tech-tracker&quot;&gt;tech / status tracker&lt;/a&gt; or other &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/41657/ships-properties-reference-sheet&quot;&gt;ship reference sheet&lt;/a&gt; to keep quick track of tech effects on your units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Get in the habit of planning your builds during other people's turn, or allow 'honor builds' in which you announce a build and then the next player moves on with the game while you build.  Builds need time-consuming decision making and are rarely affected by the next player's move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T01:42:32.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-03T02:27:01.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19600/antike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Antike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another Civ-lite game. Battle is handled by removing troops one after another, and a lot of it is guessing what the other players are going for, and trying to beat them to the punch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T02:27:01.773" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2010-11-03T03:18:50.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I regularly play with Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals and Traders &amp;amp; Builders.  We're mostly interested in having more tiles for a longer game, but the extra rules do add some variety.  We sometimes ignore the expansion rules and just use the tiles, especially if we're feeling lazy or playing with less experienced players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use this one primarily for the extra tiles and the big Meeple.  A lakeside inn has little effect in 2p unless one player finds a way to hog them and complete those roads.  We score more total points, but they're usually split evenly.  A cathedral becomes a late game screw-you tile in 2p (our games get kinda cutthroat).  Play it on a big city to make it unfinishable and thus worth 0 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Builders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The builder meeple is critical in 2p.  You have to make good use of him or else the other player is going to run away with the extra turns.  As for trade goods, I usually see them as an equalizer against bad tile draws.  You can finish your opponent's city in exchange for a chance at +10 or even +20 points at endgame.  That's not always a good play in 3+ player games, but it can help a lot in 2p.  Assuming one of every trade good ends up in a completed city, somebody is going to at least get a 10 point advantage.  That's a big deal in 2p games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2010-11-03T16:02:29.017" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T16:02:29.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-03T05:27:57.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matuszek.org/eleusis1.html&quot;&gt;Eleusis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of my favourite card games. You have to use inductive reasoning to figure out the dealer's secret rule. It's actually better with a large group because you learn more from other players' mistakes while waiting for your turn to come around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a bit intimidating for new players, so you might want to start with a small group playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logicmazes.com/games/eleusis/express.html&quot;&gt;Eleusis Express&lt;/a&gt; to get the hang of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T05:27:57.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-03T05:40:49.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find lists of card games for different numbers of players at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/number/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pagat.com&lt;/a&gt;. In particular, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/kt5/pengyou.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Looking for Friends (找朋友)&lt;/a&gt; looks interesting, though I haven't tried it. It's described as a trick-taking game that works well with large groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T05:40:49.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-03T06:17:57.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an old game called Plank that might fit your description. When you play with three players, the player to the left of the winner receives a penalty of two points, and the third player receives a penalty of one point. When the players have played some multiple of three games, the player with the fewest points wins the match. This way, when a player has to choose between stopping one player or the other, he will always stop the player to his right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I first ran across Plank in Sid Sackson's &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4385/a-gamut-of-games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Gamut of Games&lt;/a&gt; book. He added the rule for  scoring three-player games to solve the king maker problem. Plank was described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.archive.org/stream/youngfolkscyclop00chamiala#page/540/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Young Folks' Cyclopaedia of Games and Sports&lt;/a&gt; in 1890 (complete rules at the link). I've since seen a commercial version called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3306/hack-attack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hack Attack&lt;/a&gt;. I really like the game as a light filler, and I made my own set out of Lego. For me it has a similar feel to Quarto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T06:17:57.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-03T07:42:03.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I understand your explanations I'd say many German style games should fit your description. For example in &quot;Settlers of Catan&quot; players gather victory points and the game ends once a player has collected a certain number of them. Since the total pool of victory points is usually far greater than the players are capable of achieving before the game ends - that should constitute a non-zero sum game. One player gaining a victory point does not significantly affect the chances of other players gaining one themself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly in &quot;Dominion&quot; - while play ends once the 6 points cards are depleted there are other cards that give victory points. Thus even if one player manages to grab more of the 6 point cards it is conceivable that another player wins because of additional 3 and 1 point cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That pattern is present in many other games, especially ones that keep all players in the game until the end (a core characteristic of German style games)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T07:42:03.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-03T13:38:30.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a few of our favourite games we maintain a high scores list.  If you come a close second place then the high scores list can give you some compensation for your efforts.  Also, by keeping the list of all-time low scores, we provide a bit of incentive for players who don't have a hope of winning the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T13:38:30.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1148" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:23:32.810" Score="22" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our gaming group, we have a very hard time picking out the Big Meeple from the other Meeples on the board.  While the Big Meeple certainly is bigger than the others, it's not by a significant factor, and most of our group (epsecially me) just can't tell it apart from other Meeples on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has gotten to the point where we have implemented a house rule that when you play the Big Meeple, you must state you are playing it, and if someone asks where your Big Meeple is, you need to point it out.  Still, it's easy to loose track of, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else experienced this?  Have you implemented a similar house rule?  Have you altered your Big Meeple (painting on it, drawing a smiley face on it, etc.) to help identify it?  Or are we all just seriously visually impaired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T02:48:03.710" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T10:13:16.740" Title="Carcassonne -- problem telling the difference between the Big Meeple and regular Meeples" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-11-03T15:57:47.590" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've mentally lost track of big meeples before, so I don't see a problem with visually altering it to make it stand out.  Perhaps you could borrow a hat from a set of Legos?  Honestly, I'm more surprised that your gaming group is cutthroat enough to need a rule to force people to announce when using big meeples.  Carcassonne is a game of perfect information (other than tile draws).  You should always be able to ask where something is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T15:57:47.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-11-03T17:23:45.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not visually impaired. Telling at a glance whether one thing is bigger than another, when they are not immediately next to each other, can be fairly difficult. I have never played Carcassonne with the big meeple, but I've noticed this problem in other games, such as distinguishing medium and large Icehouse pieces in certain circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution would be to alter the big meeple in some way. Paint its head, glue a helmet or coronet onto it, or something of the sort. That will make it stand out a lot more than size alone, and be a lot more convenient than a house rule requiring it to be announced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T17:23:45.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1154" CreationDate="2010-11-03T20:56:07.057" Score="15" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;How would you categorize gaming skill, based on your own talents, or those of people you know?  And what makes certain people good at those categories?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one example, I've noticed I tend to win most games that involve a long series of calculations or tactical decisions, like Carcassonne and Bohnanza, but get beaten much more often at strategic games that require having firm goals in mind and lots of planning, like Puerto Rico and Race for the Galaxy - and I know people who are phenomenal at those games, and often, the same people are great at both.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps that qualifies me as a Tactician but not a Strategist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trading, psychology, and speed are other possible categories I can think of off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T23:33:36.150" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T23:33:36.150" Title="Categories of Board Gaming skill" Tags="|psychology|skill|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-01-29T19:36:56.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1153" CreationDate="2010-11-03T22:55:15.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A list of categories of board game skills isn't something I've ever seen.  To actually come up with one, I think you have to first start by looking at research from the psychology field in relation to the different forms of IQ.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_multiple_intelligences&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;theory of multiple intelligences&lt;/a&gt; that was created in 1983 by Howard Gardner breaks out different types of intelligence.  Gardner lists &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thomasarmstrong.com/multiple_intelligences.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;8 different types&lt;/a&gt; of intelligence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the type of game, I would say some of those intelligences come into play.  Certainly if you have bodily-kinesthetic intelligence and interpersonal intelligence, you would be more likely to be a shrewd trader in games like Settlers of Catan.  If you can read people's body language to tell they're bluffing, this is a huge leg in games like Poker.  On the other end of the spectrum, spatial intelligence would be incredibly important for games where board position is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also how much planning people do to consider.  Good chess players, look ahead at more possible moves then weaker chess players, and a similar ability to analyze future events would be a good thing to look at.  This gets into &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game theory&lt;/a&gt; and prefect play.  A players ability to practice this would be another big skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed would be another topic to consider.  Players who arrive at decisions faster would also be better at games where timing matters.  This could also affect games where timing may not immediately be apparent.  Being able to realize any deal another player is offering before the others players accept, would usually be beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since research on psychology and artificial intelligence should also be considered, I personally don't feel qualified to give you an exhaustive list.  There is a book, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1841693367&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Moves in Mind: The Psychology of Board Games&lt;/a&gt; you might be interested in if you really want to delve deeply into this topic.  There is current active research by psychologist and programmers for using games to develop different skills in participants that looks at this question from a different angle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1467-8624.2007.01131.x/full&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Promoting Broad and Stable Improvements in Low-Income Children’s Numerical Knowledge Through Playing Number Board Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://portal.acm.org/citation.cfm?id=1180875.1180877&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SIDES: a cooperative tabletop computer game for social skills development&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T22:55:15.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2010-11-03T22:57:16.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Tynam's given the main sensible suggestions that don't distort the character of the game too much. If you want to shorten it more, then I think your options are going to have to be more drastic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the Status and Strategy phases! A friend of mine proposed a radical variant of TI3 where things move more fluidly and there aren't the defined rounds like there are in TI3. You can read his thought process at &lt;a href=&quot;http://toothycat.net/wiki/wiki.pl?DaybreakDictatorship&quot;&gt;http://toothycat.net/wiki/wiki.pl?DaybreakDictatorship&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like that idea... Well, what happened with our group is we discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27463/galactic-emperor&quot;&gt;Galactic Emperor&lt;/a&gt;. Which scratches a lot of the same itches as TI3, but takes 2 hours rather than 6-9. It doesn't have the big tech tree or the deck of politics cards, but, well, &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; has to go if you're cutting a 9 hour game down to 2 hours; and Galactic Emperor plays very much like a streamlined and simplified Twilight Imperium 3. You can read &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/358686/an-excellent-in-between-review-after-4-games-by-a&quot;&gt;my review of Galactic Emperor compared with TI3&lt;/a&gt; over on BoardGameGeek.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-11-03T22:57:16.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-04T01:50:28.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/23284/wayfinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wayfinder&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Movement mechanic similar to mancala.  Up to 4 players with a simultaneous movement element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Magnitus" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T01:50:28.300" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2010-11-04T11:43:42.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Republic of Rome is a potentially negative-sum game.  There are multiple possible endings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One Senator reaches 35 Influence: the player controlling that Senator wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One Senator is proclaimed Consul-For-Life and Rome survives to the end of the turn: The player controlling the Consul-For-Life wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A faction rebels and conquers Rome:  That faction wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the three outright wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The deck runs out (effectively the time limit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player with the most total influence wins; this is generally regarded as a lesser win than the outright wins above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rome falls (four active wars, popular revolt): all players lose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a complete defeat, which is supposed to be regarded as worse than another player winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various tournament approaches to scoring these, but one approach is to score an outright win as +1 per other player (so +5 in a six-player game), and losing in such a game as 0, a max-influence victory as +0.5 per other player (+2.5 in a six-player) and a survival in such a game as +0.5, and all lose as -1 for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T11:43:42.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-04T11:58:42.643" Score="8" ViewCount="1399" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most non-luck-free games use either open-ended randomizers (like dice, or spinners) or closed-ended randomizers (cards, chit pulls, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is an alternative, which is simultaneous revelation of chosen selections (rock-paper-scissors).  One example of games that use this type of randomizer are games with written orders, like Diplomacy - which is so completely driven by the diplomatic factor that most people regard it as being luck-free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any games that use rock-paper-scissors type mechanics as an explicit randomizer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="49" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T20:49:44.843" Title="Rock-paper-scissors type randomizers" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-05-11T06:37:28.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:16:14.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board game skill definitely transfers from game to game. If you really don't want to play Puerto Rico with an unskilled player because the person to their left will have an advantage, then play different games with them that do not have this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example. Power Grid has turn order that changes based on how many cities a player has. Of course good players will purposefully hold back on purchasing houses to get better position in the next round, but it is still a great mechanism to make sure that inferior players have limited ability to affect the game in a negative way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other games that solve this problem are Caylus, Agricola, Citadels, and pretty much any other game where turn order can be bid for, and is not set in stone. Also, many game sthat have limited player interactivity, such as pure racing games, do not suffer because turns are effectively, if not actually, simultaneous. Also, this problem obviously does not occur in two-player games or co-op games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally highly discourage any modification to games. Players are not game designers, and without incredibly thorough play-testing by professionals, any so-called house rule you come up with will probably just ruin the game, even if you don't realize it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely feel compelled to modify a game, here is a general method to follow. First, determine if it is better to go first or last in any given round. For the sake of example, let us say it is advantageous to go first. In the first round of the game proceed as normal. Then using some quantifiable measure, rank the players as to who is in the lead. Since going first is advantageous, have the person in last place go first, second to last place go second, and so on. Redo the turn order at the beginning of every round by this same measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This modification will in all likelihood ruin your game, as skilled players will take advantage of the system to go first/last when they need to. It also allows for increased chance of error, when someone no doubt accidentally takes their turn out of order. Yet, it will fix the problem of sitting to the left of the weakest player under most circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T01:18:49.210" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T01:18:49.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:27:32.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielematerial.de/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SpeilMaterial&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of options if painting the head in silver or something isn't enough&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cowboys (might have to paint yourself) &amp;amp; dwarfs for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JRJZB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cowboy&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xvfl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dwarfs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="13745" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T10:13:16.740" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T10:13:16.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:32:57.543" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once wrote a gadget to google wave for &lt;a href=&quot;https://wave.google.com/wave/ref?w=googlewave.com!w%252BEXmHDfzsB&amp;amp;src=nw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rock Paper Scissors Lizard Spock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is just the same as rock paper scissors but with more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T12:32:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2141" CreationDate="2010-11-04T12:33:00.850" Score="5" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2633/dog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dog&lt;/a&gt; there is a expansion from 4 to 6 players. The only variation I know and have played is 3 vs 3. Does anyone have experience with 2 vs 2 vs 2? Does that play well too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I'm thinking about doing a tournament and it would be easier to get the required number of boards if I could pit three teams against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T22:54:34.053" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T22:54:34.053" Title="6 player Dog variation" Tags="|variants|dog|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2010-11-04T13:25:42.527" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assign seats randomly.  Card draw, dice roll, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A part of strategy in games is knowing the situation you are in and adjusting your game play.  If you get the unlucky draw of being to the right of this person, you'll need to adjust your strategy knowing the person to your left may not make the play an experienced player may make.  Many times I make a play I normally wouldn't make when I sit the right of an inexperienced player if I cannot afford for the person to the left of the player to make specific play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my opinion situational awareness should dictate your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After every game we play, we re-assign seats randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T20:52:27.543" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T20:52:27.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-04T15:12:35.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand your question correctly, &lt;strong&gt;Duck Duck Go&lt;/strong&gt; could be an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play as rubber ducks in a bath tub, and you have a hand of three cards with different movement patterns on them.  Each player picks a card from their hand, and once all cards have been selected, everyone reveals their card simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is that each card also has a number in the upper-left corner, with the cards resolved in lowest-number order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T15:12:35.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-04T16:28:05.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sid Meier's Civilization, the board game based on the video game based on the board game, used this method for combat. You have three types of pieces, and you each reveal one of them simultaneously, and then use a rock paper scissors method to decide who wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is from the very first edition of the game, and I haven't played it in years, so I could be remembering this incorrectly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T16:28:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2010-11-04T16:34:00.953" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the Sheriff. This is an elected position. On the first day, before any lynchings, there is a public debate and vote to decide the Sheriff. The Sheriff then appoints a deputy who will take over if/when they are killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sheriff has two votes when it comes to lynching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="134" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T16:34:00.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-04T16:36:11.460" Score="7" ViewCount="6799" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only 3 player variant of Canasta that I know is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummy-games.com/rules/canasta-for-three.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cutthroat Canasta&lt;/a&gt;.  Are there any other good 3 player variations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="342" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T18:51:20.783" LastActivityDate="2021-03-02T04:52:24.430" Title="Is there another good 3 player variant of Canasta?" Tags="|variants|canasta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-04T16:36:44.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/26/age-of-renaissance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Age of Renaissance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This boardgame starts each turn with a bidding mechanic that I believe meets your criteria for simultaneous revelation of hidden choices.  Each player makes a bid which has two main effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn order (lowest to highest).  (Generally going earlier is desirable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of influence tokens to place (Generally placing more is desirable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to an interesting choice for everyone as they need to determine which is more important to them each turn, and then to pick the proper bid in relation to the other player's bids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give a simple example.  If the three revealed bids are 12, 13, and 30.  Two of the players will likely be happy (the 12 and the 30) while the person who bid 13 could have bid 29 and still gone second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've simplified things a bit here and there are of course exceptions.  The game is very enjoyable and takes 3-5 hours to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T16:36:44.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-04T17:52:16.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Race for the Galaxy has this kind of randomness in the action selection phase, although it has a lot of luck of the draw in it as well.  A typical early game example is the explore, settle, trade relationship in the early game.  Often, you want to explore if other players trade, settle if they explore, and trade if they settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I disagree that this is not inherently lucky.  If we play Rock Paper Scissors, and I play uniformly at random, the only way that you are going to beat me is luck.  Even if we introduce a little bit of information into the game, if I am making a decision that has any randomness in it, and I certainly should be if the game can be reduced to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strategy_(game_theory)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mixed strategy&lt;/a&gt;, then the game still has some luck involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T17:52:16.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-04T18:40:39.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Robo Rally&lt;/strong&gt; uses action cards — move 3, turn 90° right, move 1 — placed in predetermined slots; the cards laid down by other players may change how those cards translate into game actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T18:40:39.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-11-04T19:25:56.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baby Bingo - create bingo cards with baby-related words, randomly arranged.  (It's best to use a reasonably small set of 25-50 words; include specific words related to the mother or baby if possible.)  Write a story that includes all of the words.  Read it slowly and let people mark off the words on their cards.  First person to get 5 in a row wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="22" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T19:25:56.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1167" CreationDate="2010-11-04T21:39:14.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.members.shaw.ca/bvwhit/hand.html&quot;&gt;Hand and Foot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'm not a huge fan of this variant, &lt;strong&gt;everyone else&lt;/strong&gt; in my family is and it is now the only version of canasta played regularly for us.  There are a lot of slightly different rules set out there, I've linked to the one that seems to resemble the rules my family uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference for Hand and Foot is that each player is dealt 2 Hands (called a Hand and a Foot).  The player only uses the &quot;Hand&quot; to start.  When they drain the Hand of cards, they may immediately pick up the &quot;Foot&quot; and continue the turn they are on.  Timing the pickup of your Foot is the key to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any number of players is well supported, we play with three often.  Four decks will give you a nice game of Hand and Foot for three players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My objection to this variant is that you are really dependent on what is in your &quot;Foot&quot; each round.  For me, it introduces a larger luck factor than I prefer to play with.  This leads to more games with large differences in score which I don't find enjoyable.  It's definitely worth a try to see if it is your cup of tea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T21:39:14.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-11-04T23:54:42.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/74/apples-to-apples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt; is a really great game for moderately large groups. In my experience ladies tend to enjoy it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://scattergories.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scattergories&lt;/a&gt; is also fun, and scalable by dividing into teams. Lastly, my family and I recently discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2379/guesstures&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guesstures&lt;/a&gt;, and the best antics by far were those of my 80-year-old grandmother, on which fact my 14-year-old niece and I agree (read: good for all ages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-04T23:54:42.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="504" CreationDate="2010-11-05T03:53:44.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; chose an Action card that he resolved during the previous game round (pg11 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/death-angel/minisite/support/death-angel-rulebook-web.pdf&quot;&gt;Rule Book&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that rule, how can you use &lt;strong&gt;Force Field&lt;/strong&gt; indefinitely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T03:53:44.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-05T04:35:24.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/library/games/on/bl-simul-nibelungenlied.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nibelungenlied&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2003, Abstract Games Magazine and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;About.com's board games section&lt;/a&gt; held a game design contest for simultaneous movement games. I helped one of the judges play test, and Nibelungenlied was my favourite. How could you not love a game where the two players represent the forces of tragic destiny and natural order? It placed third in the contest. You can find several of the entries on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/cs/freesimultaneous/a/simul_winner.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;contest page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also look at board game geek's &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/search/boardgame?sort=rank&amp;amp;advsearch=1&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;include%5bdesignerid%5d=&amp;amp;include%5bpublisherid%5d=&amp;amp;range%5byearpublished%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5byearpublished%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bminage%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bnumvoters%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bnumweights%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bminplayers%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bmaxplayers%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bplayingtime%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgrating%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgrating%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgweight%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgweight%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;searchuser=imfurry&amp;amp;playerrangetype=normal&amp;amp;propertyids%5b0%5d=2003&amp;amp;B1=Submit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rock-paper-scissors mechanic&lt;/a&gt; and their &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/search/boardgame?sort=rank&amp;amp;advsearch=1&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;include%5bdesignerid%5d=&amp;amp;include%5bpublisherid%5d=&amp;amp;range%5byearpublished%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5byearpublished%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bminage%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bnumvoters%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bnumweights%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bminplayers%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bmaxplayers%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;range%5bplayingtime%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgrating%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgrating%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgweight%5d%5bmin%5d=&amp;amp;floatrange%5bavgweight%5d%5bmax%5d=&amp;amp;searchuser=imfurry&amp;amp;playerrangetype=normal&amp;amp;propertyids%5b0%5d=2020&amp;amp;B1=Submit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simultaneous action selection mechanic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-11-05T04:40:45.740" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T04:40:45.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4345" CreationDate="2010-11-05T05:18:53.300" Score="4" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/game_system&amp;amp;noredirect=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game System&lt;/a&gt; is a set of components and/or rules that are intended to be used to create games.  That is, one set of components that allows to play several diffrent games.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent game systems like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludism.org/ppwiki/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;piecepack&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://decktet.wikidot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Decktet&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20436/stonehenge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stonehenge&lt;/a&gt; have tons of games to try, but older game systems like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5096/sly&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sly&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8923/orion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orion&lt;/a&gt; only seem to have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/6107/slyrules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Orion.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules (PDF)&lt;/a&gt; that came with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somehow &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/LooneyPyramids.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icehouse&lt;/a&gt; managed to survive from the 1980's until the web could attract a community for it, does anybody know of any additional rule sets written for other game systems published before 1995?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T08:25:35.107" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T08:25:35.107" Title="Know any games designed for old game systems like Orion or Sly" Tags="|game-design|history|game-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-10-06T08:25:38.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2010-11-05T05:36:52.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15987/arkham-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game supports 1-8.  I've played 1-6 and all work well.  With 3 or less you may want each player to control 2 characters, but that isn't necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that with 7-8 there will be a fair amount of downtime between turns.  However, if the group enjoys the game and gets into it I don't think the problem is insurmountable.  I find that reading the event cards aloud really brings everyone into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T06:32:01.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2010-11-05T06:56:18.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another games that might fit your description is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/432/category-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Category 5 / 6 Nimmt!&lt;/a&gt;. Every player is dealt a number of cards which are numbered from 1 to 104. All players select a card to play and then simultaneously reveal it. They must then add their card to one of 4 or 5 rows on the table in ascending order. Any player who has to add the 6th card or cannot place his card in any of the rows must take one of the rows (which will count against him) and start a new one with his card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous games in that family...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T06:56:18.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2010-11-05T11:34:38.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually play it with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;Immortal&lt;/strong&gt; - if wolves choose to kill him, he doesn't die (he still can be lynched)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;Whore&lt;/strong&gt; - each night she must choose a person to lie with: she dies if she chose a wolf, otherwise nothing happens (henceforth she knows that that person is not a wolf)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind that using the whore two people can die in a single night, giving an advantage to the wolves; usually this outweighs the whore ability of sometimes knowing that someone is not a wolf, especially if she's unlucky enough to choose a wolf on the first night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T11:34:38.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2010-11-05T17:18:59.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for one-off pieces, for play testing purposes and such (rather than having custom pieces made for final production of something), I'd hit up yard sales and thrift stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically wouldn't recommend them, as you can't be sure most games are complete, but in this case, getting a bunch of partial games cheaply might be an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T17:18:59.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1192" CreationDate="2010-11-05T21:00:34.357" Score="20" ViewCount="25955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought the extension Cities and Knights (I don't know the rules very well at the moment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have the base game and the Seafarers of Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to combine, on the same board, the Basic game of Catan, the Seafarers of Catan extension, and the Cities and Knights extension?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T01:00:32.900" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T15:43:46.440" Title="Catan : Multiple extension combination" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2010-11-05T21:52:32.700" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?CaK_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Cities and Knights (pdf)&lt;/a&gt; address combining it with Seafarers (page 13). They warn that only certain scenarios work well, and provide rules for things like how to treat ships as roads and how a knight can chase away the pirate. There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/26-combination_cities-and-knights_seafarers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ on combining the two expansions&lt;/a&gt;, which addresses a few points that the published rules don't cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One crucial point which they don't cover, in either the rules or FAQ, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/826/with-both-seafarers-and-cities-knights-expansions-how-many-victory-points-shou/1100#1100&quot;&gt;as discussed in an earlier question&lt;/a&gt;, is how many victory points to play to. It seems that the consensus is that when combining Seafarers and Cities and Knights that you should add 2 victory points to the victory conditions listed in the Seafarers scenario. See the other linked question for more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-05T21:52:32.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1783" CreationDate="2010-11-06T17:57:50.207" Score="8" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone come across variant rules for Mille Bornes where the players don't play on teams?  I've seen rules for 2 player, 3 player, 2 vs 2 and 3 vs 3, but nothing for four or more solo players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For whatever reason, sometimes we'll have a group of four or more who feels like playing, but all playing solo.  The problem is, someone always ends up running out of fuel or getting a flat tire, and then never seeing a Petrol or Repair card for the rest of the game.  They end up just sitting there, which is pretty non-entertaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible that the deck just isn't suitable for more than three players, and playing with two decks is the only way to have more than three solo players, but I'm open to suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T13:11:58.870" LastActivityDate="2019-03-27T01:24:31.660" Title="Non-team variants for four or more players in Mille Bornes?" Tags="|house-rules|mille-bornes|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2010-11-06T18:30:57.623" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Dominion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't expect a lot of votes up because the game is very new, but I think Dominion has the potential to do a much better job qualifying in the long run than Magic: The Gathering. The problem with any Trading Card Game, in my opinion, is the high financial barrier to entry, as well as the potential significance of limited run cards. To put it more clearly, if you spend more money, show up at more promotional events and have been playing longer than I, you are going to have a much larger set of cards to choose from, and this could give you an insurmountable advantage. If I just don't understand and any starter deck could beat the deck of an experienced player, then I guess I'm mistaken, but I doubt that's the case. One could argue that this is part of the game or meta-game, but I would argue that one of the great virtues of games like chess, go, backgammon or poker is that you can own a set for very little cost to you, and introduce a new player without their having to purchase anything at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion, in contrast to Magic, has a much lower barrier to entry because new players can simply join in on a game with your set, and because in a given game all players have the same resources available to them at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to argue against both games' inclusion: chess, go, etcetera are expanded in depth as a result of exploration of new strategies within the existing game framework. Most modern games, including both Dominion and Magic, are expanded by the addition of new game elements. One could argue that games like chess and go must have gone through an evolutionary phase like this before reaching their current form, and I suppose that is possible, but I certainly think that a game that is still adding features cannot be called &quot;deep&quot; in the same way that these older games can. Perhaps one day Dominion will attain this status, but I think at this point I couldn't vote up my own answer in good conscience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T18:30:57.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="841" CreationDate="2010-11-06T20:20:33.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/41929/error/expired/errata-for-the-published-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;errata posted on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; that corrects the rules about delivering Guild Orders, and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rnrgames.com/images/ProductRules/MOVrules.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;updated set of rules&lt;/a&gt; (from the publisher's site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/41930/mov-rules-with-updates-from-errata-included&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;also available on BGG&lt;/a&gt;) which includes the correction. According to the errata and the new rules with the errata included, you do indeed count the second order as a new order, and thus get more VPs than the first gave you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• On page 8 under Guild Hall replace the last&#xA;  paragraph with the one below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;IMPORTANT! – If you have just delivered a Guild&#xA;  Order, then picked a new Guild Order and happen&#xA;  to have the Resources with you to fill it, you may&#xA;  turn them in immediately. Adjust prices and Orders,&#xA;  and collect VP’s, as described above.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also confirmed by the designer in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/550958/question-about-gaining-vp-when-turning-in-guild-or&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brian has it correct, the guild orders are placed in front of you to track how many you have completed. The value of the delivery increases for each you deliver. Hence, 3 for the first card delivered, 4 for the second, 5 for the third and 6 thereafter. Let's say you deliver two at the same time, and they happen to be your 2nd and 3rd cards delivered, you would thus receive 9 on that delivery of two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have the original rules before the correction, so I don't know what it said; in particular, in the updated version, I see nothing about &quot;you do not get to deliver the order,&quot; so I'm assuming that's something that the updated paragraph has replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T20:20:33.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-11-06T20:56:05.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Damage your opponents' decks and hands.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use attacks like the Witch, Spy, Bureaucrat, Ghost Ship, Swindler, Militia, etc. to make sure the other players are always playing with fewer and worse cards than they would like. Especially with the Witch, getting an early start at haranguing the other players can ensure you get a significant lead right off the bat. On the flipside, the Witch is a terrible card once the Curses run out. It's really nice when Upgrade is also in play so you can flip your Witches for Golds once this happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T20:56:05.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1200" CreationDate="2010-11-06T22:11:55.757" Score="5" ViewCount="2626" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently purchased some Carcassonne expansions, and I have some questions about the pigs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, pigs can be placed on your field to increase the multiplier. But what if fields are merged? Do pigs count as farmers, or are they just multipliers? Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red has a field with one farmer and a pig.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue has a field with just one farmer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fields are combined. Does red win, or do both red and blue share the spoils where red has the x4 and blue the x3 multiplier?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the expansion with the dragons introduces portals. Is it possible to place a pig through a portal, or is it meeple only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T18:34:51.313" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T12:54:03.400" Title="Questions about pigs" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2010-11-06T22:19:33.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both get points.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your pig gives you +1 for each city you gain points for (limited to the cities bordering the field the pig is in, of course). It doesn't give you an advantage for &quot;winning&quot; the points from a city. So in your example : yes, both players get the points : 4 for Red, thanks to the piggy, and 3 for Blue. (I don't get why you're mentioning &quot;multipliers&quot; though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't answer for the dragons, I don't own that expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="242" LastActivityDate="2010-11-06T22:19:33.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1198" CreationDate="2010-11-07T02:25:22.537" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traders and builders rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The pig counts only if he owns the field. For ownership of the field, only the farmers are counted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The PDF from Rio Grande Games for the princess and dragon does say that the magic portal can be used by a follower and the PDF from Rio Grande Games for Traders &amp;amp; Builders does call the pig a follower in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However checking with the Complete Annotated Rules that cites a lot of sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The original rules say: ’12 new&#xA;  followers in 6 colours (one builder&#xA;  and one pig for each player)’. In the&#xA;  Big Box rules, the builder and pig are&#xA;  no longer considered to be followers,&#xA;  which has a large number of&#xA;  consequences for their use. The RGG&#xA;  edition of the Big Box also changes&#xA;  this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always played the portal as Meeple (big and small), Mayor and Wagon are free to be deployed but nothing else which is in line with the above statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T02:25:22.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-11-07T04:57:55.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diversify! Don't compromise on starting with high numbers and 6 separate tiles, unless you are getting two of a 6 or 8, or a port for an item you are set to get a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of. You're also much better off with a spread of numbers: if you can, sit on a 6 and an 8 instead of two 8's. Spread out with settlements if you can before upgrading to cities. Ore is, for this reason, okay to miss at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T04:57:55.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-11-07T05:05:30.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Development Cards! These can seem less rewarding in terms of sustainable resource generation, but if you find yourself without road components, buy development cards! Knights can give you some control and protection along with 2 VP's, and the other cards can help you out quite a bit if well-used. Playing Monopoly after a big score of ore or brick can be very satisfying for you, and demoralizing for the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T05:05:30.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-07T08:39:29.733" Score="19" ViewCount="109972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was introduced to &lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt; just a few weeks ago here.  I plan on buying it and I would like recommendations as to which expansions I should get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="67" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T21:39:01.017" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T16:54:31.110" Title="Which Settlers of Catan expansions are recommended?" Tags="|catan|recommendations|expansions|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-03T06:36:23.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2010-11-07T16:58:09.313" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two biggest expansions for Catan are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CCwQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fboardgamegeek.com%2Fboardgame%2F325%2Fcatan-seafarers&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=Seafarers%20of%20Catan&amp;amp;ei=8NLWTMfSG8GAlAep8J39CA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNECfinGSYsRx4710htuukZj8gMCgg&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seafarers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCYQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fboardgamegeek.com%2Fboardgame%2F926%2Fcatan-cities-knights&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=Catan%3A%20Cities%20and%20Knights&amp;amp;ei=B9PWTJPuMIWdlgeUnPCLCg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNE7nkMTHyxT5e0XfHnY7FeKAdumbg&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan: Cities and Knights&lt;/a&gt;.  I previously asked the question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/603/how-is-gameplay-improved-in-the-cities-knights-expansion&quot;&gt;&quot;How is gameplay improved in the Cities &amp;amp; Knights Expansion?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; recently before buying it myself.  I would check out the answers there for some other opinions on that expansion.  There is also a third expansion, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCYQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fboardgamegeek.com%2Fboardgame%2F926%2Fcatan-cities-knights&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=Catan%3A%20Cities%20and%20Knights&amp;amp;ei=B9PWTJPuMIWdlgeUnPCLCg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNE7nkMTHyxT5e0XfHnY7FeKAdumbg&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan: Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&lt;/a&gt;, but that isn't as popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seafarers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was the first expansion for Catan.  The expansion expands the size of the board and gives you the ability to have islands separate from Catan.  The game comes with a number of different scenarios and the ability to create maps with random landmasses.  (Random maps on Seafarers is a favorite of one of the people I play with, and how we usually play.)  Besides adding boats which are roads going across the water, and a pirate to act as a robber, Seafarers doesn't significantly increase the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Catan: Cities &amp;amp; Knights&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cities &amp;amp; Knights was the second expansion for Catan and take the base game and builds up on it.  Three commodities are introduced to the game: Coin, Paper, and Cloth.  Cities, now instead of producing two resources, produce a resource and a commodity for ore, wood, and sheep.  The development cards are not used and progress cards in three colors are now used.  Progress cards are gained by developing your cities, and can't be bought.  You use the commodities to upgrade your cities through different levels to increase the speed of you earning progress cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knights also move from being cards to being tokens on the board.  In addition, every so many turns, the barbarians come and attack Catan.  All active knights defend, and if Catan wins, the person who helped to defend the most gets a victory point.  If Catan looses, the person who helped the least, looses a city.  A third event dice determines when the barbarian moves or when progress cards can be generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this increases the length of the game and makes Cities &amp;amp; Knights plays slower.  It's a much more strategic game with Cities &amp;amp; Knights.  The progress cards also give you a lot of different options.  A number of cards directly harm other players, while benefiting you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Catan: Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the one I haven't played, but I do know it adds a lot of different scenarios and variants to Catan you can play with.  It includes the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20038/catan-event-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan Event Card&lt;/a&gt;s, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/20247/settlers-of-catan-the-great-river&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan: The Great River&lt;/a&gt;.  (As a side note, I know my local game store carries The Great River as a separate expansion.)  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catan:_Traders_%26_Barbarians&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia article on this expansion&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of information available about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5-6 player Extensions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main game and each expansion, has a 5-6 player extension for it that lets you play 5-6 players.  I have extensions so I can play the main game or Seafarers but have never actually had 5-6 people to play it.  Friends of mine speak very highly of playing Catan with more people though.  Adding more people does slow the game down though and if you play Cities &amp;amp; Knights with 6 people, your looking at a very, very long game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love variety when playing games, and I find Seafarers adds a lot of variety that makes each game different.  You get this with playing random maps with the core game, but random landforms really diversifies what's going on.  We've had games with large landmasses or narrow landmasses.  If you want to break out of the standard Catan island, this is the expansion for you.  I can also speak highly of Cities &amp;amp; Knights.  It's a different type of game, but adds a lot of depth and if your looking for that, get it.  No one has recommended Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians to me yet, so I would say the jury is out on that one for me.  I would suggest both the other two expansions first, and get Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians if your still looking for more Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would get the  5-6 player extensions on as need basis.  If you at least get the core game extension, you can at least play Catan if you have more people then usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T16:58:09.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2010-11-07T17:30:12.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19343/settlers-of-catan-the-fishermen-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Fishermen of Catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a small expansion that I got in the now-defunct Games Quarterly magazine (according to BGG, it was in Issue 12 of Spring 2007).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, there are fishing segments on the shoreline, and if you have a settlement touching one of these fishing areas when the number is rolled, you get a random fish tile.  You can trade in fish for various favors, such as moving the robber back to the desert, getting a free resource, a development card, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was apparently included in the &lt;strong&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&lt;/strong&gt; boxed set, although if you only want this expansion, you'll most likely have to look on eBay to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T17:30:12.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2010-11-07T19:11:36.940" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite expansion is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seafarers_of_Catan&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seafarers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (sometimes also called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/325/catan-seafarers&quot;&gt;Catan: Seafarers&lt;/a&gt; or simply &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/catan-games/boardgame/seafarers.html&quot;&gt;Seafarers&lt;/a&gt; if the context is clear). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers adds ships to the game, which you can use to explore separate islands; they are like roads, but go over the sea. The addition of ships adds some balance that was missing in the original game; since ships cost wool and lumber (or sheep and wood, depending on the terminology you use), they increase the value of wool, which in the original game is frequently less useful. Apparently, ships were originally supposed to be part of the base game, but were removed to simplify it; but I find that adding them back in adds balance back to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers also increases the sense of exploration in the game. In the original game, you're just settling one island that you can see all of to start with. In Seafarers, you are exploring and settling new islands; in some cases, you don't even see what's there until you get to them. Seafarers comes with several different scenarios with slightly different rules and different map layouts; in some you have many small islands, while in others you have one large island like the original, with a few small satellite islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the other expansions I've tried less essential. Cities and Knights can be fun, but it focuses on city development and knights which protect you from barbarian attack, instead of adding more to explore and balancing the basic game. I've never tried Traders and Barbarians; I believe that it is a collection of several small expansions, that you can mix and match, or mix and match with Cities and Knights or Seafarers. The 5 &amp;amp; 6 player expansions can be good if you wind up with more players than basic Settlers can support, but I find that they make the game take longer without making it much more interesting, so I think that 4 player Settlers or Seafarers works better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2010-11-07T19:11:36.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1419" CreationDate="2010-11-07T23:48:04.627" Score="7" ViewCount="5932" Body="&lt;p&gt;In endgame, you typically have a hand in tenpai that is waiting for 1 more tile to be complete. Usually, it is better if you are able to wait for multiple tiles so your chance to finish are increased. From the rules, some typical wait patterns are derived. For instance, if you got 3 sets and a pair and an incomplete 23, you're waiting for either 1 or 4 to complete a chii (street).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experienced players know that certain patterns lead to especially high chances to finish. What are the most common patterns to know and strive for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-17T18:19:45.707" LastActivityDate="2023-01-05T13:12:34.957" Title="Common Mahjong wait patterns" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1223" CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:36:43.760" Score="7" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you are playing a game with a Cylon leader. He is not infiltrating. The humans reach New Caprica. Is there now no mechanic by which a Cylon Leader can infiltrate? So the only way for a Cylon leader to infiltrate is for him to already have been infiltrating when we arrived? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T02:07:33.580" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T02:38:15.993" Title="Infiltrating in new Caprica" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1222" CreationDate="2010-11-08T01:57:36.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct; there is no way for a Cylon leader to start infiltrating while on New Caprica. (See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Battlestar_Galactica%3a_Pegasus_Expansion_Unofficial_FAQ#toc3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unofficial FAQ at BGG&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Cylon leader needs the humans to win and wants to be able to help them out on New Caprica, s/he needs to be infiltrating when they get there. Otherwise, s/he won't be able to use the &lt;strong&gt;Human&lt;/strong&gt; actions, which is the main way to help the humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T02:38:15.993" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T02:38:15.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1229" CreationDate="2010-11-08T03:28:18.910" Score="22" ViewCount="2362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Dominion with the base + Intrigue sets for a while now, and one of the cards that I have trouble wrapping my mind around is the Coppersmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, it seems like a great card - it allows you to make all of your Coppers into Silvers, and in some cases - even Gold. However, I have yet to build a deck during a game that manages to use it effectively. Usually, in order to pull one or two of those with a nice amount of coppers, I need to create a deck that relies heavily on +cards/+actions chains, and the Coppersmith only begins to affect the game too late for it to be of any use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... how can this card be effectively used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wE225.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;(Coppersmith)Copper produces an extra (1) this turn. (4)Action&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T04:22:30.300" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T04:22:30.300" Title="How can I effectively use the Coppersmith?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-08T03:44:37.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power of this card is in the early game. Buy it on your first or second turn to get some extra buying power early on before you have a more Silver- and Gold-heavy deck.  This can get you a Gold as early as your third or fourth turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to try to trash it later, since it provides little benefit after mid-game or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T04:06:56.803" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T04:06:56.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-08T05:42:42.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that you should basically ignore the coppersmith unless there is a really good way to draw a lot of coppers and still have actions left.  It only pays off if you have more than 2 coppers in hand.  In practice, this means I will only consider it if there is a tactician or apothecary.  In my opinion, coppersmith is the worst 4 cost card in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's why:  It's only sometimes better than silver early, and late game, it's much worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume a standard 5 card hand, with a deck of mostly coppers, some estates, and a coppersmith:  If you buy a coppersmith instead of a silver early game, it will give you likely anywhere from +1 to +4 coins.  If it gives you +4 coins (meaning you have $8), it's probably not better than +3 or, since an early gold is almost always better than an early province.  If it had been a silver, you'd still hit $6, and you can still buy that valuable $6.  If it gives you +3, that's pretty nice, you can get an early gold or other useful 6 cost card, and no other card could fill it's particular role.  If it gives you +2, you were better off with buying a silver, since the silver does just as well there, and is much better late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T05:42:42.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="971" CreationDate="2010-11-08T05:54:45.970" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, the decision points/micro turn order goes  as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A plays a Minion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B reveals a Secret Chamber, and then can even grab a Moat from the next 2 cards into your hand, put two other cards on top of your deck, reveal the Moat, and then put the Moat back onto the top of the deck with another use of the same Secret Chamber.  See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Dominion_FAQ#toc19&quot;&gt;BGG Dominion FAQ&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/faq/&quot;&gt;Isotropic Dominion Server FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.  In general, you can use a single reaction card as many times as you want.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: that B does not yet know if he is forced to discard, and there can be a lot of thinking involved here.  If you are forced to discard, you want to take the best 2 cards with you, and leave 5 junky cards for the discard.  But if you aren't forced to discard, you don't want to wreck your current turn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A then makes his decision about taking $2 or discarding and taking 4 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T22:54:33.930" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T22:54:33.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-08T06:39:43.253" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coppersmith is a terminal action, therefore you have to design your deck to accomodate it.  (By terminal action, I mean it is an action that does not give +Actions).  As others have noted, Coppersmith is a card used to give you an early start.  By managing your deck, you can extend that advantage well into the mid game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a chart showing how 1 coppersmith can accelerate your early game.  I've compared it to Smithy, and &quot;Big Money&quot;  (A base strategy of buying only silver/gold/provinces which is actually fairly strong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;                    Chance of Having (once during the two turns)&#xA;Turn 1-2 purchases   $6      $7     $8       Notes&#xA;---------------------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;Coppersmith+Treasure 50.91%   0.00%  21.21% # 1 in 792 that 2 golds can be bought&#xA;Smithy+Silver        42.60%  19.39%   2.12% #Not possible with a 5/2 copper split&#xA;2 Silver             33.59%   8.84%   0.00% #Not possible with a 5/2 copper split&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows a few things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you have a vastly higher chance of affording a province.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The coppersmith gives you a 70% higher chance of being able to afford a gold than &quot;Big Money&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The coppersmith works with a 5/2 copper split on the first 2 turns, while the other two do not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coppersmith will not give you possibly annoying $5 and $7 hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is buying a province on turn 3 a good move?  Maybe not, but it could be.  My point is that if you buy coppersmith, you stand a higher chance of getting an early gold.  This advantage will carry over to future turns.  Coppersmith will help you hit the financial high points of $6 and $8 more often, while avoiding $5 and especially $7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every set of 10 cards in Dominion is different.  Coppersmith won't always be a great card, but it can be used to great effect.  Try playing it with wishing well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T19:51:22.127" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T19:51:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1234" CreationDate="2010-11-08T13:37:39.507" Score="17" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the weekend I was playing Agricola and played the occupation Outrider.  The rule for the outrider is &quot;Whenever you use the most recent Round card with one of your people, you receive 1 additional grain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In round three &quot;Sow and/or Bake&quot; was turned over, and so I wanted to pick that card and sow the grain I would receive from it immediately.  I wasn't sure about the legality of this move and so I asked for general consensus on it.  Everyone agreed that I couldn't play the move, and so I didn't, but I'm still interested to know whether our ruling was correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an answer which either cites a rule that we didn't find or an official clarification about this situation.  Failing either of those, I would be interested if there is a similar situation that has a definitive answer that might suggest a ruling here.  Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T15:35:28.943" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T12:34:57.493" Title="How does the Outrider work in Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-08T17:13:13.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the only circumstance where a Coppersmith will be likely to be better than a silver is if you're stuffing your deck with lots of copper, playing a lot of +Buy cards and using all the spare buys to get copper. A Gardens / Council Room kind of strategy might appreciate a Coppersmith or two. I've never seen anyone put lots of Laboratory together with +Buys for Gardens and copper, but if someone did that, then that could work with Coppersmith. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T17:13:13.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1232" CreationDate="2010-11-08T17:15:09.413" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/34558/the-unofficial-agricola-compendium&quot;&gt;Agricola Compendium&lt;/a&gt; is a superb resource for this kind of rules question. In this case, it has your answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You receive the grain before you've taken the action. For example, if you use a sowing action, you can immediately sow the grain from the Outrider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're interested in the principle behind the answer. I'd love to explain it, but I can't. The Agricola rules are generally very good about consistency of terminology - if something says &quot;an oven&quot; it means any of the cards with &quot;Oven&quot; in the name and no others. If something says &quot;receive wood on an action space&quot; (Pieceworker), that's different to &quot;take wood that is on an action space&quot; (Mushroom Collector). But sadly, one area where they're not so consistent is precise details of timing like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to be able to say things like in Magic: the Gathering, something like &quot;Some cards have the pattern &quot;Whenever [player] [takes action], [effect].&quot; In this case, the [effect] happens at the start of the [action].&quot; But that doesn't seem consistent with the rules on cards like Compulsory Education, Merchant. And it's unclear whether if the Wood Distributor has put some wood on a Major Improvement space, and you take it with a Clay Worker to get an additional clay, do you get the clay in time? I don't think Agricola has specific timing rules to allow you to state the answer with complete confidence in cases like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastEditorUserId="234" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T17:34:02.650" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T17:34:02.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1241" CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:15:56.750" Score="10" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is it considered a disadvantage to accept Queen's Gambit? How should I play to take advantage of an accepted Queen's Gambit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(All online guides I've seen simply state not to do it, but don't explain why it's bad or how to take advantage of it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T20:47:36.603" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T11:14:26.163" Title="Accepting Queen's Gambit" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="797" CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:22:50.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is helpful to know your odds of winning any given battle over a territory. Doing that involves quite a bit more than just learning the most likely die rolls. This paper from Mathematics Magazine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www4.stat.ncsu.edu/~jaosborn/research/osborne.mathmag.pdf&quot;&gt;www4.stat.ncsu.edu/~jaosborn/research/osborne.mathmag.pdf&lt;/a&gt; gives some nice charts and tables and an overall pretty readable analysis of win/lose odds, and expected losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T19:22:50.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1237" CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:36:40.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure it is a disadvantage. Here's a quote on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queen%27s_Gambit_Accepted#cite_note-Raetsky-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;QGA entry&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the 1990s, a number of players among the world elite included the Queen's Gambit Accepted in their repertoires, and the line is presently considered sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has gone in and out of favor over time, but apparently it's in vogue now. Maybe it's discouraged for beginning players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T20:02:07.093" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T20:02:07.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:43:18.553" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the odds laid out by Pat Ludwig, there are some cards that will make Coppersmith more or less useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that could make Coppersmith more useful.  Actions are terminal unless otherwise noted:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adventurer (B) - Flip cards from the top of your deck until you've revealed two Treasure cards.  Put the Treasure cards in your hand, discard all other cards.  Discard all other flipped cards.  Only useful if you have two or more actions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apothecary (A) - Draw a card, then flip the next 4 cards.  Put any Copper or Potion cards you flipped in your hand, discard all other cards you flipped.  Also has +1 action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counting House (P) - Take any number of Coppers from your discard pile and put them in your hand.  Only useful if you have two or more actions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Golem (A) - Flip cards until you get two action cards, then play them in either order.  Useful if you manage to get Coppersmith with one of the other actions mentioned here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King's Court (P) - Increase the value of each Copper by 3 when used with Coppersmith.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room (I) - Increase the value of each Copper by 2 when used with Coppersmith.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any cards with +Cards and +Actions, such as Village (B), Laboratory (B), Market (I), Bazaar (S), Caravan (S), Haven (S), Alchemist (A), City (P), Grand Market (P), etc... provided you have the Coppersmith in your hand already.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that could make Coppersmith less useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loan (P) [Treasure] - Flip cards from the top of your deck until you flip over a Treasure card, then trash or discard that card.  Discard all other flipped cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pirate Ship (S) - Other players' attacks can cause treasure cards to be trashed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swindler (I) - Other players' attacks can cause next card to be trashed.  If it was Copper, you'll likely be given a Curse back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thief (B) - Other players' attacks can cause treasure cards to be trashed or stolen (attacker's choice).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that could help or hurt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Venture (P) [Treasure] - Flip cards from the top of your deck until you flip over a Treasure card, then immediately play it.  Discard all other flipped cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T22:13:17.957" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T22:13:17.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1237" CreationDate="2010-11-08T19:45:53.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;White has a slight advantage in the Accepted line, but it will depend what level you play at.  Even at the higher levels both Anand and Kasparov have played it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You give up the center in the QGA as black, but white has an isolated Queen's pawn to deal with.  There are too many alternatives for the QGA to go over them all here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, white is taking the center, and hopes that his advantage will compensate for the pawn.  A very logical move then is 3. e4, grabbing the center with a pawn duo, though 3. Nf3 has been more popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Black tries to hard to keep the pawn, he'll only hurt himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-11-08T19:51:08.260" LastActivityDate="2010-11-08T19:51:08.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-08T23:20:45.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khet_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;khet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;fits the bill it is very chess like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually prefer it to chess because, although it is simpler in many ways, each player has the ability to move their opponents pieces making some interesting strategies possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="127" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T10:19:15.983" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T10:19:15.983" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1245" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:18:17.813" Score="12" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relevant part of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Juggernaut&quot;&gt;Darksteel Juggernaut&lt;/a&gt;'s rules text states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Darksteel Juggernaut's power and toughness are each equal to the number of artifacts you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is Darksteel Juggernaut's power and toughness determined? Can they change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T20:50:40.043" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T20:50:40.043" Title="When is Darksteel Juggernaut's power and toughness determined? Can they change?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1243" CreationDate="2010-11-09T01:54:27.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played MtG in quite a while, but I would assume the power and toughness change as the number of artifacts you control changes. For example, if you had no other artifacts in play when you played Darksteel Juggernaut, it would come into play as a 1/1 (I'm assuming an Artifact Creature counts as an artifact). If you later played two more artifacts, it would become a 3/3. So basically, whenever you need to know what the power or toughness is, you count the number of artifacts at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T01:54:27.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1243" CreationDate="2010-11-09T03:05:18.373" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a judge, but I believe the following sections from the comprehensive rules cover everything:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;207.2a The card may have a characteristic-defining ability that sets its power and/or toughness according to some stated condition. (See rule 604.3.) Such an ability is worded “[This creature’s] [power or toughness] is equal to . . .” or “[This creature’s] power and toughness are each equal to . . .” This ability functions everywhere, even outside the game. If the ability needs to use a number that can’t be determined, including inside a calculation, use 0 instead of that number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.3. Some static abilities are characteristic-defining abilities. A characteristic-defining ability conveys information about an object’s characteristics that would normally be found elsewhere on that object (such as in its mana cost, type line, or power/toughness box). Characteristic-defining abilities function in all zones. They also function outside the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you check the card rulings for Serra Avatar (with the same ability), it has the following ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10/4/2004: Its power and toughness are continuously calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, its power and toughness are always defined, in all zones, and always updated.  If anything needs to reference its power and toughness, determine what that is.  If a new artifact comes into play, it automatically goes up in power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T19:11:18.100" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T19:11:18.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:04:37.683" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connect_Four&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Connect Four&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object is to get four of your color in a row horizontally, vertically, or diagonally. No luck - just pure skill against the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:04:37.683" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:05:42.550" Score="14" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reversi/Othello&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial board position is fixed, pieces to be played are controlled, and the object is to have more of your color upright than the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:05:42.550" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-09T13:07:30.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mastermind_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mastermind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it could be argued that a first guess that is &amp;quot;right&amp;quot; would be lucky, but it &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be a game of logic based upon guesses leading to a pattern match against the hidden sequence of pegs setup by the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T13:07:30.317" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1237" CreationDate="2010-11-09T17:09:31.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the Queen's gambit it's not considered a true gambit, because white comes out ahead with an accepted queen's gambit. White is offering a wing pawn in exchange for a center pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretical disadvantage of an accepted Queen's Gambit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;d4 d5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c4 dxc4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Qa4+ c6 (or Qd7, or Bd7, or Nd7)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Qxc4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now white has a commanding control of the center of the field, and is not down any pieces. (though the queen is out and exposed very early)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least that's how it was explained to me 20+ years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that this is the way it's usually played, but white players consider that other things they can do with an accepted queen's gambit are better than this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" LastEditorUserId="144" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T20:06:22.887" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T20:06:22.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-09T18:21:19.897" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say that there is no luck element at all in Puerto Rico, but it is definitely extremely low. The game involves selecting roles to perform actions. Each person will perform the chosen action, but the actual chooser gets a bonus for it. The main theme is developing plantations to grow crops, and then shipping these goods off for victory points.&#xA;The only luck elements I can see in the game are the 5 random crops that are available to plant during a planting phase, and possibly the turn order. If you the skill level of the people playing is drastically different, then sometimes the person you are sitting next to and what role they choose can greatly affect your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="376" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T18:21:19.897" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1260" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:28:44.790" Score="22" ViewCount="4178" Body="&lt;p&gt;A basic strategy of using Remodel to upgrade Estates to Remodels, Remodels to Gold, and using Gold to buy or upgrade to Provinces is a powerful but slow strategy, so I haven't been able to win with it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there circumstances in which you would use a Remodel-heavy strategy?  Assume there are no Curses.  How would it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4XlIW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T21:00:01.743" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T16:12:22.757" Title="What are good strategies involving Remodel?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1237" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:50:06.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason it's discouraged for lower-rated players is that black gives up a center pawn and allows white to develop his bishop with a gain of tempo - two things we are trying to teach the players &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in higher levels it's considered ok, since the half-open d-file gives black control of d5, and in many lines white's d-pawn becomes isolated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in the end, at lower-level play the opening &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/967/how-important-is-memorizing-chess-openings-in-casual-play/992#992&quot;&gt;doesn't really matter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T19:50:06.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1323" CreationDate="2010-11-09T19:54:23.000" Score="5" ViewCount="2003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a set of Mystery Train expansion cards that I printed and laminated myself (they're not the most pleasant to play with, but they work). Since I got the 1910 expansion for Ticket to Ride, I haven't really used the Mystery Train expansion because the cards' sizes don't match. The destination tickets from Mystery Train are included, but I'm looking for the character cards (&lt;em&gt;Engineer&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Tycoon&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Inspector&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Station Agent&lt;/em&gt;, and the blank character card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a professionally-printed version or a printable PDF for the full-size cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:20:17.187" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T04:20:17.187" Title="Is the Mystery Train expansion for Ticket to Ride available in sizes matching the 1910 expansion?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:05:49.510" Score="7" ViewCount="50441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an online site to play the card game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phase 10&lt;/a&gt; on?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A clone is fine, but I'd really like to avoid a download.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4909" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-09-21T14:29:53.030" LastActivityDate="2017-04-19T14:09:51.053" Title="Where can I play Phase 10 online?" Tags="|online|phase-10|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2010-11-09T20:53:38.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you're discounting Curses here, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remodel can be used to turn a Copper/Curse into any 2-cost card.  If you played a Bridge first, you can turn a Copper/Curse into any 3-cost card (because they now cost 2, and a card's cost cannot go below 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remodel can also be used regain cards lost to Saboteur or Swindler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategies presented here also apply to the Prosperity card Expand, but for 3 more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNED2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-11-09T21:29:22.140" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T21:29:22.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2010-11-09T22:04:37.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Be Ruthless!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically an extension of the strategy of trashing all your lame cards presented &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/381/what-are-good-standard-tactics-for-dominion&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Don't limit yourself to only remodeling Coppers and Remodels. Be ruthless about it: if you get a Remodel in your hand, play it, even if it means passing up other actions, and even if it means you won't get to buy anything. This will keep your deck small and powerful. And, as Powerlord pointed out, this applies to Expand as well, and I'd throw &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=upgrade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Upgrade&lt;/a&gt; into the same box. If &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=workshop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Workshop&lt;/a&gt; happens to be around, it can speed up the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UB945.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Upgrade: Cost: 5 --- +1 Card, +1 Action. Trash a card from your hand. Gain a card costing exactly 1 coin more than it.&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wysDt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Workshop: Cost: 3 --- Gain a card costing up to 4 coins.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-07-24T15:35:42.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:09:23.250" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, heavy use of Remodel works best in conjunction with another strategy; you can't usually rely on it exclusively, but it can give you a strong boost.  Get into the Remodel game early and aggressively (especially when no other trashing options exist).  Most importantly, learn to recognize when other strategies are more powerful than Remodel, and don't be afraid to only buy one and use it only moderately when that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remodeling from Coppers and Estates all the way up to Provinces takes a long time, so find a way to buy or gain a lot of Golds through other means, and then use Remodel to bump them to Provinces.  Near the end game, you can be especially aggressive with dumping your Golds, even when it drops your coin in hand down and limits your purchase to a Duchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also beneficial to combine it with attacks to slow your opponents down enough to let your Remodel strategy come to fruition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:09:23.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1264" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:28:37.033" Score="6" ViewCount="1150" Body="&lt;p&gt;This card kind of has me stumped.  In my experience, the vast majority of games deplete the Province or Colony pile before any other, ending the game.  Which means in most circumstances, this card is basically an overpriced Village, which isn't a very strong card to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me the key is knowing when Supply piles are likely to run low.  Are there any things to look for in the setup of 10 Kingdom cards to help predict when this might happen?  Or are you better off waiting until it actually does happen before investing in this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4TN2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;+1 Card; +2 Actions; If there are one or more empty Supply piles, +1 Card.  If there are two or more, +1 Coin and +1 Buy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T20:29:42.693" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T20:29:42.693" Title="City card and predicting when Supply piles will run low" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1262" CreationDate="2010-11-09T23:48:02.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see some synergy with Treasure Map, which tends to disappear fast.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SgGiG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-09T23:48:02.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1262" CreationDate="2010-11-10T00:40:38.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;More supply piles tend to go in 5 or 6 player games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that synergize with themselves tend to get bought out quickly - like Caravan, Treasure Map, and Laboratory. Extra buys also seem to increase the rate at which Kingdom cards get bought out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminal actions (ones that do not give you +1 Action) tend to get bought less frequently, as each player would only consider 1-2 copies anyway. It seems lower cost cards (2 and 3) aren't bought out very much.  4-5 costs appear to go fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed City &lt;em&gt;itself&lt;/em&gt; is frequently the first one to get bought out if any will, and that immediately boosts all of them. Generally I tend to wait on City until I notice people are grabbing Kingdom cards, but I also generally lose to the guy who bought 5 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T00:40:38.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1069" CreationDate="2010-11-10T09:50:44.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I kept searching for the past few days, but the only thing I found was tenhou's logging feature. It basically lets you replay previous hands, so you &quot;only&quot; need to find strong players and links to their hand records. I do not yet know how to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://tenhou.net/0/?log=2008120919gm-0007-7447-xc9f52854acf6&amp;amp;tw=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://tenhou.net/0/?log=2008120919gm-0007-7447-xc9f52854acf6&amp;amp;tw=3&lt;/a&gt;. It starts with some Japanese advertisment, but just click the link at the bottom after a few seconds and you'll be lead straight to the game. Everything is self-explanatory from that point on. Sadly, I have no idea how strong the players in the link are, I just found it by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that there is a number of youtube videos, but it's rather hard to follow so I can't recommend it really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly neither of these options offers commentaries, so it's only partly useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://arcturus.su/tenhou/replays.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; tells how to watch replays on tenhou.net. It's a very comprehensive guide. Also have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://arcturus.su/tenhou/lobbies-games.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which explains how to watch live games of high dan players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replays on tenhou look like this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbzX7.png&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T11:53:02.353" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T11:53:02.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="904" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:18:52.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ofb.net/~whuang/ugcs/gp/mahjong/mahjong.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This source&lt;/a&gt; explicitly states that 13O and 7P are the only exceptions in Riichi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Winning hand is, except for two&#xA;  exceptions, composed of four MELDS&#xA;  (mentsu [面子]) and a PAIR (jantoo,&#xA;  [雀頭]). The two exceptions are the&#xA;  SEVEN PAIRS (chiitoitsu [七対子]) hands&#xA;  (covered in a later section) and the&#xA;  THIRTEEN ENDS (kokushimusoo [国士無双])&#xA;  hands (covered later in the special&#xA;  hands section)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T15:18:52.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8462" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:51:27.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ofb.net/~whuang/ugcs/gp/mahjong/mahjong.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; that explicitly states the problem in the OP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Essentially, certain properties of the hand give multipliers (yaku [役]). At least one multiplier is necessary for the hand to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiplier, or &quot;fan&quot;, is based on properties of the hand or how it was won (yaku). For instance, a fully concealed hand (menzenchin tsumohou [門前清模和]) gives 1 yaku, so the win condition is satisfied. In the example given in the OP, no multipliers apply. For a list of multiplier sources, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ofb.net/~whuang/ugcs/gp/mahjong/mahjong.html#multipliers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other common sources of yaku include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fanpai [翻牌] / yakuhai [役牌] - &quot;Pon of honors&quot; - A tri or a quad in any element / the round or position wind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tanyaochuu [断幺] - &quot;No Terminals&quot; - A hand with no terminals/honors. (Sometimes required to be closed though - this depends on the actual rules in effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-11-19T02:31:13.393" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T02:31:13.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1281" CreationDate="2010-11-10T15:55:08.210" Score="8" ViewCount="4602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Memoir 44 very interesting and exciting, but it seems everyone I introduce it to has the same gripe. They (and I) don't like having a unit getting pummeled by the opposing force without being able to fight back. It doesn't fit in with the game's realistic/historical feel, and/or it weakens the game's element of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to fix this issue with a rule modification without undermining some of the basic elements of the game like the luck of the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T16:12:11.910" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T17:44:16.033" Title="Without breaking the game, how can I fix Memoir 44's problem with having no cards to order units in a certain section?" Tags="|house-rules|memoir-44|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1278" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:30:37.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally like this element of the game.  If you know your opponent doesn't have cards for a section then pounce on it.  Also changing these rules would take away from the historical advantage/disadvantage of sides in terms of number of commands cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of ideas I could come up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a card and instead of doing what the card says, activate one unit in the section of your choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not play a card and have a rule saying you can activate one unit in the section of your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a rule where you can skip your turn and instead discard and replace any number of command cards of your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a rule where you can play any card or no card and instead of doing what the card says allow 1 or 2 units to a section of your choice to retreat 1 or 2 spots to a more defensive position and not allow any forward movement or attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T16:30:37.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1278" CreationDate="2010-11-10T16:31:17.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sure is frustrating when this happens to one or more sections of an army, I agree. I wonder though, if it would actually &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt; historical realism if it was somehow removed or mitigated.  The lack of order cards in a certain section could be analogous to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The commander losing radio contact with his troops.  He is then unable to tell them when or where to fight back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit experiencing mechanical difficulties and is unable to move or return fire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit having run out of ammunition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="95" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T21:52:44.753" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T21:52:44.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1278" CreationDate="2010-11-10T18:05:01.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;BattleLore, which also uses the Command and Colors system, has a &quot;battle back&quot; rule. Perhaps the rule could be adapted like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fight Back&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an Infantry or Armor unit is attacked in close combat, a player may choose to have the attacked unit Fight Back if it did not retreat and was not eliminated. Armor units, however, may not Fight Back if the attacking unit is Infantry. To Fight Back, roll the appropriate number of dice, checking for unit, terrain, and other effects. Resolve combat as usual. A unit that Fights Back may not Take Ground or Armor Overrun afterward even if the attacking unit retreats or is eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only one round of fighting back may occur per attack order (e.g., the attacking unit can't &quot;fight back&quot; after having attacked, even if the target fights back). A unit may, however, fight back more than once in a turn if it is attacked by multiple units in close combat (once for each unit that attacked it in close combat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Fight Back tactic may neither be used against or by Aircraft. Air Checks are resolved as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems reasonable to eliminate the restriction preventing a unit from fighting back unless it has a friendly unit adjacent to it (one example of &quot;bold&quot; morale in BattleLore) because close combat is much less common in Memoir 44 than the equivalent in BattleLore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also seems realistic. Units would not always shoot back when taking fire from the enemy (e.g., seeking to gain ground, keeping cover, pinned down, saving ammo, or orders). However, when in close combat, it becomes fight-or-die and (depending on the scale of distance represented by a hex) ammo becomes less of a question (knives, bayonets, fistfights, or picking up ammo from fallen soldiers). Tanks would have a much more difficult time fighting back when attacked by soldiers, and artillery would be difficult to aim quickly and safely enough in the duress of close combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T18:05:01.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-11-10T19:23:29.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We follow an (admittedly odd) rule whereby the distinction lies between forced moves and optional moves.  Essentially, if you forgot to do something you were required to do, we do our best to roll back to that point.  However, if you forgot to do something which you were allowed not to do, then you're stuck with that move.  This may come from the fact that we frequently play games like Battlestar Galactica, wherein &quot;I forgot to do move X&quot; may in fact be cover for &quot;I did not want to do move X, but don't want you to know that, so I will instead claim error&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T19:23:29.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1291" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:36:16.940" Score="14" ViewCount="876" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Calamity Janet has a Barrel, can she use it to generate a Missed! and then use her special ability to turn the Missed! into a Bang! in order to avoid Indians?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T02:50:44.523" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T02:50:44.523" Title="If Calamity Janet has a Barrel, can she use it to avoid Indians?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1289" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:58:37.330" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to counter Indians, you must &lt;strong&gt;discard&lt;/strong&gt; a Bang! card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calamity Janet can use Missed! cards as Bang! cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrel, however, does not give you a Missed! card when it works successfully - it just causes a Missed! effect that can be used to cancel a Bang!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you don't have a Missed! card to discard, Calamity Janet can't use Barrel to avoid Indians in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-11-10T21:16:26.460" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:16:26.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1292" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-10T20:59:21.993" Score="5" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Deluxe Illuminati from the beginning, and have all the original expansions and the Y2K expansion.  The problem is that when playing with Y2K, you end up with too many cards in the deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a good way of deciding which cards to use?  Is there an official method?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T11:11:47.567" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T15:24:58.070" Title="Is there a good method for choosing which cards to use in Deluxe Illuminati?" Tags="|illuminati|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-11-10T21:21:42.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My choice is the &lt;strong&gt;third alternative&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you play a game with the rule that &lt;em&gt;&quot;forgotten privileges are lost&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, then that game might be less fun. So, in such games it would be good to make the previous(/next) players to remember their privileges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it will be a problem with the &lt;em&gt;&quot;forgotten privileges are lost&quot;&lt;/em&gt; rule, then that game might probably be bad designed. Such a bad design can usually be easily fixed, using pen and paper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, any rule where &lt;em&gt;&quot;forgotten privileges are NOT lost&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, might still be worse than the lost rule, depending on the situation. So, there should be a third alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least as long as no privilege is forgotten and no pen and paper are used, &lt;strong&gt;pay attention to the previous(/next) players&lt;/strong&gt; and remind them of their privileges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First time&lt;/strong&gt; any privilege is forgotten should go with the rule &lt;em&gt;&quot;forgotten privileges are &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; lost&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any time, a player &lt;em&gt;forgets a privilege &lt;strong&gt;again&lt;/strong&gt;, it &lt;strong&gt;should be lost&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. So, the general usage of &lt;strong&gt;pen and paper&lt;/strong&gt; (for at least that player) should be established after the first time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dependent on the type of game, it is very irritating and therefore suboptimal to pay attention to the &lt;em&gt;previous player&lt;/em&gt;: Oneself has to be reminded whenever it is the previous player's turn, and one cannot think about the own turn while paying attention to the previous player. So, at least in that case, it will be better to pay attention to the &lt;strong&gt;next player's turn&lt;/strong&gt; instead. To do this is actually contra-intuitive, because one's stress is gone when the own turn ends; so, this has to be trained and secured by observing the observer: pay attention that the next player pays attention. If this is too bothersome, remember that pen and paper might be good alternatives to minimize the needed attention span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="371" LastActivityDate="2010-11-10T21:21:42.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1339" CreationDate="2010-11-11T04:02:53.913" Score="7" ViewCount="2253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a game board made of heavy card stock that doesn't lie flat at the creases, and the sections bow a little. Is there a way to keep it lying flat? Maybe a way to mount it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14105/commands-colors-ancients&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Commands &amp;amp; Colors: Ancients&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T02:45:31.080" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T02:45:31.080" Title="How can I get my heavy card stock game board to lie flat?" Tags="|do-it-yourself|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1846" CreationDate="2010-11-11T04:21:27.733" Score="9" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Played my first 4 player game of &lt;strong&gt;Roll Through the Ages&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rollthroughtheages.com/index.php&quot;&gt;official&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; last night.  I've played the solo game quite a bit but I quickly discovered that the multiplayer game plays a bit differently!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What development should be purchased first and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T17:43:58.783" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:46:01.440" Title="What is the best first development to purchase in Roll Through the Ages?" Tags="|openings|roll-through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-11-11T04:47:32.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is corrugated cardboard. Cheap and effective, but it looks bad from one end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to find a larger board from another game and glue your board to it, trimming the edges of the board and re-wrapping them with paper tape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T04:47:32.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-11-11T07:22:51.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the discussion about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/194/174&quot;&gt;protecting board sufaces&lt;/a&gt; comes the idea of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/194/protecting-the-surface-of-your-board-games/201#201&quot;&gt;placing a sheet of Plexiglas&lt;/a&gt; on top of your board. That just might have enough weight to push it down. If it doesn't you'll still have a flat albeit slightly tilted surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T07:22:51.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="55" CreationDate="2010-11-11T09:38:53.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't mind to, in the first turn, buying a cheap plant with a lot of storage space (say, three coal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cheap plant will help you in the turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I stock up on cheap resources (cheap because we are in the start of the game) so later my one-coal plant can run for 6 turns. This has the additional bonus that resources become more expensive for the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get a city where you can connect to the next city for free, the money saved allows you to stock up nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T09:38:53.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2010-11-11T13:56:53.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizardcards.com/phase-10.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;clone of Phase 10 called Wizard Cards&lt;/a&gt; you could download and install.  Magmic games has released versions of Phase 10 for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bplay.com/item/Phase10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blackberry&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/app/phase-10/id302049354?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iPhone&lt;/a&gt; also.  There doesn't seem to be a version you can play in your browser online at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T13:56:53.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1308" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:27:15.890" Score="23" ViewCount="5656" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my polished wood table any disturbance (and I have kids, so you can imagine the disturbances...) can shift tiles around, which I then feel compelled to try to adjust to be flush with those around them. I want to get a mat to fix this, and was wondering if anyone has had experience doing this, and can offer advice. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T11:11:30.997" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T12:09:55.480" Title="What's a good table-topping material for tile-based games?" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-11-11T16:48:24.880" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;, there is an expansion you can get that consists of six interlocking long sections that frame the pieces in.  At worst, your entire island will shift, instead of individual hexes.  I just picked it up recently from my local game store after seeing our island moved one too many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other tile-based games, I would suggest a tablecloth like Egg of P'an Ku suggested, or a large piece of fabric (or felt) that you can get at a craft store -- you don't want any fabric to be TOO slippery, though.  You can even go one step further and get those no-slip rubber mats for rugs to place between the table and the tablecloth.  The only downside to that I could see is the tablecloth may occasionally get bunched up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try a table-top gaming mat, or simply skip the tablecloth and just use a large number of the no-slip mats I mentioned above, and place your tiles directly on the rubber mats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T16:59:13.290" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T16:59:13.290" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2010-11-11T17:12:02.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my games, I almost always purchase Irrigation first, because Drought can be really devastating to your score and Irrigation provides some defense against the fact that you can't reroll skulls in multiplayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T17:12:02.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-11-11T18:35:47.450" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Small Deck&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to &quot;Remove Your Bad Cards&quot;, the small deck approach is not &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; about bad cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about keeping the deck size as small as possible to cycle through your deck as soon and often as possible (ideally, getting those trusty golds/actions in play more often).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the small deck approach, I will typically buy fewer actions, build out a solid set of golds, and then start hammering on the provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="388" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T23:59:13.533" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T23:59:13.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-11-11T20:21:16.533" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/s?keywords=shelf+liner&amp;amp;searchNodeID=1038576|1287991011&amp;amp;ref=sr_bx_1_1&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot;&gt;no-slip shelf liner&lt;/a&gt; (the kind you use for kitchen cabinets).  They're sold by the roll at various department stores, fairly cheaply.  They lay flat and can be cut into whatever shape you need.  If you can, I would splurge and err on the side of using a heavier-duty liner.  The cheap stuff is probably little better than a tablecloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Carcassonne specifically, you'll want to make sure you cover as much of the table as is practical.  You probably don't want to artificially constrain the game if your no-slip surface isn't big enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T20:21:16.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-11-11T20:38:43.627" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Strategic deck building&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game, you need to plan your deck.  Find cards that will work together well.  But choosing cards isn't all there is to it, it's very important to learn &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; to purchase certain cards.  There is no reason in the world to purchase a Village in your first few turns.  Likewise, you'll rarely want to buy a Chapel in the later stages of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most games, you can break the game down into three phases.  Some kingdom cards can change this approach, but in general, this is how I think about the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Early Game:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the ten kingdom cards available and learn to distinguish which are key &quot;jump start&quot; cards: cards that help you get to bigger purchases as fast as possible.  These cards are key for your first three or four times through your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your deck is still small, you will cycle through it quickly in the beginning, and they will come up frequently.  You generally only want one or two of these jump start cards, then fill out the rest of your purchases with Silver.  Occasionally, a good jump start card will also work as a strong mid-game card (such as Bridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your goal in the early game is to get to your &lt;em&gt;mid game&lt;/em&gt; strategy as quickly as possible.  Often, but not always, this means getting enough coin in your deck to enable you to purchase cards that cost 5 or more in nearly every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cards can (and should!) be purchased in your first two turns.  These cards generally cost 3 or 4 coin and give you a fast way to afford the out-of-reach 5-cost cards: Moneylender, Smithy, Bridge, Chancellor, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Low-cost Attack cards serve a similar function, by slowing down your opponents before they reach their mid-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mid Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is when you build the strategic deck you've planned from the available 10 Kingdom cards.  If you played your early game correctly, you should now consistently have the buying power needed to do so.  With the exception of terminal actions, you will probably want several of these powerful cards.  This means Golds &amp;amp; Platinums (first and foremost), Festivals, Grand Market, Tribute, Peddler, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the end of mid-game, your deck should be the powerhouse you envisioned at the beginning.  You have cards that synergize well and you can purchase at least a Province on most turns.  When you have that, pull the trigger on your late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Late Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy victory points!  Now that you've build your dream deck, use it for its key purpose: grabbing up Provinces.  You can mostly forget about your deck-building here, and just focus on the green cards.  On turns where you can't afford a Province, perform deck maintenance: buy another Gold or other mid-game action card so you don't lose too much power after you shuffle in the victory cards you've been buying.  As the supply piles dwindle, don't be afraid to cannibalize your deck by Remodeling Golds into Provinces or Forging your powerful cards into Colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A note on trashing cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards (Chapel especially) let you focus on narrowing down your deck by trashing unwanted cards.  Often, your best bet is to start with this immediately, &lt;em&gt;prior to&lt;/em&gt; your &quot;early game&quot; strategy.  All the cards you want to trash are right there in your deck at the beginning of the game: Coppers and Estates.  Before you add too many &quot;good&quot; cards to your deck, get rid of these while you are more likely to draw them along with your Chapel or other trashing card. (This same approach works well with Treasure Map: buy two or three treasure maps right off the bat and then &lt;em&gt;buy nothing&lt;/em&gt; until you can cash them in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seem counter-productive, as you spend several turns without progressing through early- and mid-game, but once you have concentrated your deck, you should be able to get through them to your late-game much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards that don't fit these definitions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also plenty of cards that don't fit into any of the above categories.  Village, Great Hall, Pawn, etc.  These don't hurt your deck (since they often have +1 Card &amp;amp; +1 Action), but they do little to help you progress through the phases of the game.  Buy these only when you can't afford any truly strategic purchases: when you think your deck is on its way to the next phase but you just got a bad shuffle, and yet another Silver would just dilute the Golds you are starting to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-11-11T20:43:59.720" LastActivityDate="2010-11-11T20:43:59.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-11-12T02:00:18.850" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Felt. A thousand casinos can't be wrong.&#xA;Padded felt also makes it easier to pick cards/chits up off the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T02:00:18.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2010-11-12T08:43:54.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an exact match and you may have considered it already, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uno_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uno&lt;/a&gt; is a broadly similar game (and a fellow member of the '&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_games#Shedding_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shedding&lt;/a&gt;' family of card games) - it has a huge number of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uno_%28card_game%29#Theme_packs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;theme packs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uno_%28card_game%29#Video_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online versions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T08:43:54.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="908" CreationDate="2010-11-12T09:14:58.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote a program to simulate mahjong hand dealings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;It's not verified yet, but so far, the ratio appears to be around 1 in 100,000 games.&lt;/strike&gt; (The output was the chance that the case happened to at least 1 out of 4 players)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the fixed program run for a bit (1.7 billion draws):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;3004 mahjong in 1057000000 random draws: 0.00028%, 1 in 351864&#xA;4392 mahjong in 1526000000 random draws: 0.00029%, 1 in 347449&#xA;4930 mahjong in 1695000000 random draws: 0.00029%, 1 in 343813&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the state space of the random number generator is likely rather close to exhausted, so further research requires a different implementation (this is easy, I just did not bother yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the math of @Jan is correct, it would be pretty easy to replace the RNG with a permutator and just perform a whole-space search to calculate a precise result. The above program calculates around 2m hands per second on my box, so it would take 40-ish hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I implemented a &lt;a href=&quot;http://xorshift.di.unimi.it/splitmix64.c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;proper RNG&lt;/a&gt;, optimized the program slightly and let it search through 25 billion random draws:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 737s: 15433 mahjong in  5000m random draws: 0.00031  %, 1 in 323981. 6.78m checks/s&#xA;1557s: 31080 mahjong in 10140m random draws: 0.00031  %, 1 in 326254. 6.51m checks/s&#xA;2281s: 46008 mahjong in 15000m random draws: 0.0003067%, 1 in 326030. 6.58m checks/s&#xA;3116s: 60971 mahjong in 20000m random draws: 0.0003049%, 1 in 328024. 6.42m checks/s&#xA;4020s: 75921 mahjong in 25000m random draws: 0.0003037%, 1 in 329289. 6.22m checks/s&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last line is the current state (previous lines for picturing variance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2020-05-19T13:05:37.357" LastActivityDate="2020-05-19T13:05:37.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2010-11-12T12:17:32.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Cities &amp;amp; Knights is my preferred expansion out of that and Seafarers. I'm hoping to get Traders and Barbarians soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers I feel didn't add much to the game, it's easy to pick up, but honestly most games are won by simply staying putt and not using ships/visiting islands which is what seafarers is all about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cities &amp;amp; Knights adds a whole new dynamic to the game, and you have to completely re-shift your strategies. The problem with it however, is once you pull into the lead it can be quite difficult for those dropping behind to make much impact in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T12:17:32.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-11-12T12:23:44.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just took one of my old Bridge tables and is using that for most games, it works great as long as we're 4 players. I also have a fairly cheap 8-sided poker foldable tabletop thing for bigger sessions (with the added bonus of drinkholders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means another table which is perhaps not an option for you but both options can be folded and take very little space when not playing at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T12:23:44.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1907" CreationDate="2010-11-12T12:34:11.797" Score="11" ViewCount="13665" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=card+shuffler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Card Shuffler&lt;/a&gt; on google will list loads of them, does anyone have experience with one that can be used for multiple card sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something that can preferably shuffle both small games like Gosu, big ones like Dixit as well as standard bridge playing cards. Sleeved and unsleeved alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommendations out here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T11:10:48.753" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T18:38:16.237" Title="Card shuffler for many sizes" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1037" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:29:12.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pictionary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pictionary&lt;/a&gt;? I've played it with quite large teams (about 10 on each side) and it's a riot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T15:29:12.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:45:29.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Kristo's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1304/whats-a-good-table-topping-material-for-tile-based-games/1308#1308&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;, if you have a wood shop you likely have a router mat which would accomplish something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T15:45:29.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-11-12T15:46:48.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try adhering the card stock to modeling plywood (the &amp;lt;1/8&quot; variety) to add rigidity, but keep the board from being too thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T15:46:48.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1322" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:10:54.367" Score="3" ViewCount="8971" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played a few games of the base set, but I already noticed some very powerful combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Laboratory can be repeatedly combo'd with itself to draw a massive amount of treasure from your deck early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remodel can be used on Gold to quickly convert it to provinces during endgame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Share your favorite powerful combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T23:06:56.730" Title="What are the most effective action combinations in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-11-11T01:36:34.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:20:35.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=nobles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nobles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobles combine very well with themselves, or with action multipliers like Throne Room, King's Court or Golem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T2YL7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qTcDY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ulMtf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GdU8E.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T16:20:35.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1257" CreationDate="2010-11-12T16:29:00.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/523268/mystery-train-officially-discontinued&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; in my digging through the web (posted Friday, May 7, 2010 4:48 pm):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The other day I was following some links and clicked on the URL for the Mystery Train expansion: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/mystery/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/mystery/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I noticed that the page for this was no longer valid (though it had been live just a few months ago)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Curious about this, I wrote Customer Support at Days of Wonder, and they replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Thank you for your request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Support for this expansion has been discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Best Regards,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Yann Corno - Customer Service -  Days of Wonder - Come out and play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, luckily, I had archived the old Mystery Train pages before they disappeared. My mirror of that site can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tannerworld.com/mysterytrain/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.tannerworld.com/mysterytrain/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are statements on two other pages on BoardGameGeek (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/221791/with-1910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/137055/mystery-train-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;) that say there's no such thing available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One workaround would be to resize the cards (and fix the images so they look okay at the new scale), but distributing the modified PDF could be copyright infringement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T19:11:58.580" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T19:11:58.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1326" CreationDate="2010-11-12T17:35:00.353" Score="2" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod630003a&amp;amp;rootCatGameStyle=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battle Missions book&lt;/a&gt;, near the end, features a scenario called Kill Teams, wherein:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your force org chart is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 elite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-2 troops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 fast attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exact Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Every man For Himself:&lt;/strong&gt; All models operate as individual units in this mission, even if they were chosen as part of a squad or squadron.  In addition, when a model shoots or fights in an assault, it may split its attacks up amongst any eligible targets if desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue:  The new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?aId=12500034a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dark Eldar&lt;/a&gt; are very dependent on their Pain Token abilities.  These grant &quot;pain tokens&quot; to the squad at certain times (1 to start, and gain additional ones for wiping out other units).  Are the pain tokens now tracked 'per model'?  Or still shared among the whole squad?  Do you now gain pain tokens for each model killed, or just when you wipe out all the models that make up an enemy squad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T21:07:47.770" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T21:07:47.770" Title="How do the new Dark Eldar interact with the Kill Team rules in the Battle Missons rulebook?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-12T17:37:26.360" Score="9" ViewCount="4659" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bang!&lt;/em&gt; has had a relatively large number of changes over the years. I know lots of people who are used to a different edition than I am. Often, this means they are used to a different set of rules and a different deck composition. What are the changes in each edition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of clarity, I mean only the editions having English text. (Italian/English versions are fine but not the versions like French or Czech/Slovak/Polish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever an expansion has been &lt;em&gt;included&lt;/em&gt; in an edition, I'd appreciate it if you would describe any changes from the separately-available expansion or which edition the expansion is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm aware, there are five different editions of &lt;em&gt;Bang!&lt;/em&gt;, listed below (printings' dates listed in parentheses):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1st Edition (2002)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd Edition (2003, 2005)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3rd Edition (2007)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Bullet (2007, 2009, 2010)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4th Edition (2008)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Your answer doesn't have to say all the changes for every edition; it will help even if you just mention a few changes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-05-01T15:35:09.760" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T15:35:09.760" Title="How have editions of Bang! been different from previous ones?" Tags="|bang|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:41:02.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1324" CreationDate="2010-11-12T18:10:07.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is nothign in the Kill Team rules that says individual models are considered to be a single squad of 1, then I would say the pain tokens are given to the entire squad (a squad being one elite, troop or fast attack choice) for wiping out an entire enemy squad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the Kill Team rules explicitly state that each model is conisdered to be its own squad, then I would say pain tokens are given on an individual model basis for each model they wipe out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T18:10:07.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2010-11-12T18:18:56.877" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you may, but only on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing this way is not considered a discard. Emiliano Sciarra (the game's creator and designer) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emilianosciarra.net/ENG/bang-1.html&quot;&gt;posted some answers on his site&lt;/a&gt; as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Can I play a &lt;em&gt;Beer&lt;/em&gt; if I am at full life points?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Yes: the &lt;em&gt;Beer&lt;/em&gt; will simply have no effect at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Can I play a &lt;em&gt;Beer&lt;/em&gt; card if there are only two players alive?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Yes, but it has no effect at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Can I voluntarily discard my cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. No, neither cards from your hand nor cards in play in front of you. ... [T]he character Sid Ketchum can discard exactly 2 cards when he chooses so to regain one life point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the creator explained that other cards with the &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TGpgd.png&quot; alt=&quot;Beer effect icon&quot; title=&quot;Beer effect icon&quot;&gt; icon are not the same as a &lt;em&gt;Beer&lt;/em&gt; card. They can be used to restore life points when only two players are in play, and can also be played without effect when your life points are full. However, they can't be used to restore your last life point (or played outside of phase 2 of your turn for any other reason).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T18:18:56.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-12T23:50:10.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With any other multiple action card:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4BoU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chancellor&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E7GAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counting House&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 Victory point tokens for trashing a card that could cost you nothing if you played 4 actions:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VkbnP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bishop&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufG6F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Peddler&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flYkD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Minion&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/flYkD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Minion&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GUtEp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ambassador&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OI2K7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Curse&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, seriously, the possibilities are endless.  There's a reason why card randomizers are so common... so that you play with a different set of 10 cards of the 112/115 available cards each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-11-12T23:59:50.197" LastActivityDate="2010-11-12T23:59:50.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-12T23:57:30.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like posting more combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lwv8V.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counting House&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QEmtO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GTwom.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mint&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tDnnZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Platinum&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ekef.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Apothecary&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/41kar.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alchemist&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T00:06:32.453" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T00:06:32.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-13T00:43:55.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a couple I've encountered recently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Treasure Map + Watchtower - being able to put new Treasure Maps on top of your deck in the early game significantly improves the odds that you'll get two in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Counting House + Cellar - discard all your Copper, draw replacements, then put the Copper back in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Herbalist + Platinum - really, this is just obscene.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scrying Pool + City - the Scrying Pool is so weak, and so cheap, and so horribly effective if you've got a lot of Cities in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and I forgot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Counting House + Vault - sure, you need +1 action to pull this off, but at a minimum it makes all the copper in your hand worth double.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Contraband + Gardens - especially if your opponent doesn't think to ban you from buying more Contraband with your Contraband.  It's not hard to average 3 cards a turn with this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastEditorUserId="162" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T18:42:55.213" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:42:55.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-13T01:39:31.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not mentioned thus far, but an important aspect of this card:  it stacks.  You need extra actions, of course - City, Laboratory, Worker's Village, etc. - but playing two Coppersmiths in a turn can be very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T01:39:31.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-13T01:42:30.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are trying to cash in Treasure Maps, use Chancellor to reshuffle your deck if you missed the pairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T01:42:30.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2369" CreationDate="2010-11-13T09:54:35.980" Score="4" ViewCount="2777" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night we played with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/66646/carcassonne-bridges-castles-and-bazaars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bridges, Castles, and Bazaars&lt;/a&gt; expansion for Carcassonne.  We also played with a few other expansions, but ran into several situations where we weren't sure of the rules.  Previously, for unfamiliar expansions, we have used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/22896/annotatedrules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;annotated rules by Matthew Harper&lt;/a&gt;, but they don't go as far as this expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a list of interaction rules for this expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to give examples: We weren't sure about the effect of builders in a bazaar round, from which tiles dragons can eat knights in castles (if at all), whether the castles can be used over two tile cities where the tiles aren't simple curves. Also whether the bazaar breaks the road and how to do bazaars near the end of the game when there's not enough tiles left (these last two aren't to do with interaction with other expansions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to give another example: Also do castles count as cities for the purposes of scoring the king?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm fairly certain I've missed off lots of combinations here, but the annotated rules has cleared up all the questions we've had with previous expansions.  I'm really after a reference like it for this expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:28:25.780" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T09:22:23.237" Title="Interaction between Carcassonne: Bridges, Castles, and Bazaars and other expansions" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1336" CreationDate="2010-11-13T12:31:42.410" Score="19" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;This goes for many games where players take turns to draw cards, but I specifically wondered about Carcassonne:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you allow players to pre-draw tiles and look at those tiles before it's their turn&lt;/strong&gt;? So they don't have to wait until it's their turn, but somewhere between their last turn and their new turn, they can draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I myself don't like this tactic too much, as the players now possess information which the game rules did not intend them to possess yet. Especially if you allow &amp;quot;discussion&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;persuasion&amp;quot; (&lt;em&gt;no, lay your road there and take it - aha, now I got the perfect hole for my cloister!&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Pro's&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players can think ahead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game advances faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Con's&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unintended possession of early information&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(only if the original order of drawing is broken:) less drawing choice for other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:23:33.433" Title="Pre-drawing cards or tiles" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-05-11T17:16:12.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-11-13T13:08:43.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've pretty much summed up nicely in your question, but I thought I'd answer anyway.  We've played three different ways with different groups of people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually we play the original rules - that is tiles must be drawn at the start of a turn.  This works well with smaller groups of players who don't insist on studying all the options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a large group of friends we have played that players are allowed to pre-draw and discuss.  This leads to faster play and advice based on tiles that are seen early.  It also causes a small amount of suspicion (are they recommending based on what they've got in their hand?), which can also be fun if not over analysed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third way is how we play with some of our friends more prone to analysis paralysis.  We allow pre-drawing, but once a player has seen their tile they may not give advice on where to place the current tile.  This is less fun as there is less conversation, but tends to speed games up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing to consider is pre-drawing near the end of the game.  For example if a player has their builder in play (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5405/carcassonne-traders-builders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Builders and Traders&lt;/a&gt;), then they may use two tiles in their turn, instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T13:08:43.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-11-13T13:23:50.370" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played it slightly different than &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/122/tttppp&quot;&gt;tttppp&lt;/a&gt;; we allow pre-drawing of tiles, as long as the drawing order remains unchanged, and there is &lt;i&gt;no&lt;/i&gt; discussion of the tile you have pulled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if we have players 1, 2 and 3, and it is player one's turn, player 3 can draw their next tile &lt;i&gt;as long as&lt;/i&gt; player 2 has already drawn their next tile.  Yes, tile drawing is random, but we prefer that the tiles are still drawn in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The no-discussion portion keeps the spirit of the game I think, because normally you wouldn't have pre-drawn a tile, and you wouldn't have that extra information from the pre-drawn tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-drawing makes the game go much faster, since your decision making can be done in advance, as long as a player before you doesn't take the space you wanted, and our groups have no problem with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T13:23:50.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-11-13T15:50:43.153" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that this is similar in nature to the question I raised about taking back turns / forgotten privileges&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/114/7&quot;&gt;Taking back turns, and forgotten privileges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The excellent answer given was &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If no new information has been disclosed since a decision, then a player is allowed to take back any action or inaction where this is practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in this context, I would say it is fine to take tiles early, as long as it does not give a player any unfair advantage. I think this situation is fairly reflected across all games, and not just carcassonne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T15:50:43.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:22:39.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We allow pre-drawing of the next tile, but the drawer can't even look at it.  He just speeds things up by having it in his hand ready to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-11-14T02:02:15.097" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T02:02:15.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2010-11-13T17:24:40.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always just &lt;strong&gt;overbent&lt;/strong&gt; the board at the creases, and it usually helps it lay flatter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T17:24:40.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2010-11-13T18:07:04.557" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Properly manage your reshuffling frequency&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advanced strategy is in certain situations to take cards like shanty town or lookout on turns 1/2 in order to increase your rate of reshuffles, and therefore give more value to each card you gain because you will draw this card sooner than you otherwise would, and you also get to use it more times throughout the course of the entire game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very important thing to consider is during your turn if you run out of cards, to decide whether it's good to reshuffle your discard pile into a new library or not.  Sometimes it's can be really good because this will set up your next few turns in a good way, something like all money for two turns and then youll have all your actions from this turn stacked together after the money.  Most of the time however it's a lot better to get your library to zero cards and leave it there, that way you don't get any clumps that will hurt you later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/457897/an-analysis-of-early-game-strategy&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; of mine from BGG for some more detail on this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="405" LastEditorUserId="405" LastEditDate="2010-11-13T18:19:00.730" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T18:19:00.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2010-11-13T18:15:19.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remodel has 2 major uses, both of which apply games of all very strong players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: in the early game, if there are no other better cards to take on turns 1/2 like baron/militia/smithy, then remodel can be a great pick because it let's you trash those estates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: in the late game, remodel is used on gold's and nobles to get provinces.  This will very often swing the game if your opponents do not take remodel at the correct time, and you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="405" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T18:15:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2010-11-13T19:29:45.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Some Ideas&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly I haven't tried the expansion yet, but here is my take on the specific issues you mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Builders in bazaar round: Just as bazaars gotten during bazaar round don't count as bazaars because it's not normal tile placement, the builder shouldn't do anything special, either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dragon with castle: I would force the follower to stay on the tile where he was before the city was converted, but I look forward to a more authoritative answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-oval castles: The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=4&amp;amp;ved=0CCYQFjAD&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.riograndegames.com%2Fuploads%2FGame%2FGame_359_gameRules.pdf&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=carcassonne%20bazaar%20rules&amp;amp;ei=A-HeTLisH5C-sQPkj-WMCw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGl2D9q91oFBy-Xt3uZQ2ts-etlBQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; specify &quot;consisting of only two semi-circular city segments&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bazaar road: It looks to me like it breaks it just as much as the Cloister from I &amp;amp; C, which must break the road, unlike the other Cloister in the Bazaar pic.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RhJm8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zf9gE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bazaar near end of game: No idea on this one.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-13T19:29:45.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-11-14T01:56:00.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play with a larger group, we usually have the face-down tiles in a bag instead of on the table.  It's often simpler to draw your next tile right after you've played your turn.  In effect, the bag follows the turn order around the table.  You just need to be careful that you don't accidentally draw a tile when you already have one.  Also, you'll want to avoid pre-drawing when you're close to running out of tiles.  It's important that endgame tile draws happen in the correct order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group has a lot of &quot;aggressive negotiation&quot; over tile placement, I would discourage drawing your tile until it really is your turn.  Otherwise you risk changing the outcome of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T01:56:00.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2010-11-14T02:40:31.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, there's a lot of questions in there.  For starters, I agree with everything in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1333/interaction-between-carcassonne-bridges-castles-and-bazaars-and-other-expansio/1342#1342&quot;&gt;Andrew's answer&lt;/a&gt;.  As for the two questions not yet answered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that a football town can be &lt;strong&gt;converted&lt;/strong&gt; to a castle, meaning it's not a town anymore.  Also, the scoring rules state (emphasis mine): &quot;a castle next to a field scores 4 points (instead of 3 &lt;strong&gt;like a city&lt;/strong&gt;).&quot;  I think that means a castle is clearly different from a town.  So you don't get the king tile if you convert the first town to a castle, and castles should not be counted when scoring the king.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A bazaar round when there aren't enough tiles left is an opportunity for a player to buy an extra turn when he wouldn't otherwise get one.  I'm totally in favor of that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just my opinions - I don't have that expansion so I don't know how it plays out in practice.  I too would like to see a more authoritative answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T02:40:31.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2010-11-14T02:43:25.030" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allow it?  We require it.  In vanilla Carcassonne, that is.  In versions where you could make material use of that information (e.g. The City, once walls come into play) we disallow it.  We just assume that a person giving you advice is using the information on his tie to slant it to his benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T02:43:25.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1347" CreationDate="2010-11-14T11:57:44.423" Score="8" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something that would let me store the board setup and move the pieces manually so that I can play with a friend via email/msn. It doesn't have to handle mailing or anything for me as long as I can move the pieces around :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T15:49:01.533" Title="Chess client for e-(g)mail" Tags="|chess|online|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1346" CreationDate="2010-11-14T13:51:53.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;h3&gt;GamesByMail&lt;/h3&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/44/scott-mitchell&quot;&gt;Scott Michtell&lt;/a&gt; just introduced me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GamesByMail&lt;/a&gt; to play Axis &amp;amp; Allies, and I noticed that it has chess as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need is an e-mail address to create a small profile, same thing for your opponent, and you're ready to play.  You should get e-mail reminders when it is your turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried chess there yet, but if it's anything like A&amp;amp;A was, you should be in good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T13:51:53.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1346" CreationDate="2010-11-14T14:52:13.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timeforchess.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Time for Chess&lt;/a&gt;*?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also has a great &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timeforchess.com/chess/iphone/play-chess-on-iphone.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iPhone optimised&lt;/a&gt; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a.k.a. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redhotpawn.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Hot Pawn&lt;/a&gt; ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T14:52:13.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1346" CreationDate="2010-11-14T15:49:01.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many options for online chess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very simple site I use is itsyourturn.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get email reminders and it just does what you need if you want play chess with a friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more advanced options look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://freechess.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;freechess.org&lt;/a&gt;. There are several different clients for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="412" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T15:49:01.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1357" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:39:37.660" Score="39" ViewCount="7426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love board games and don't mind sitting down for 10-15 minutes with some experienced players to learn how to play a complex game. However, I don't think most of my friends are as tolerable of complexity as I am. I have a feeling they might get a little spooked at seeing a shadows over camelot board, but might be able to handle something like dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good games that newcomers can get started at quickly and feel proficient within a couple turns? I love games where brand new people can start developing good strategies within a few minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;related: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2002/how-can-i-recognize-games-i-should-avoid-buying-if-i-only-play-with-non-hardcore&quot;&gt;How can I recognize games I should avoid buying if I only play with non-hardcore gamers?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T15:46:15.143" Title="Games that are quick to teach to new people, yet still fun and strategical" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="24" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:32:01.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:40:02.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 50th anniversary edition you have two starting layout to chose from. The other answers seem to discuss mostly what is called the 1941 start in 50th ann. ed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found that in the 1942 layout, Germany starts out MUCH stronger and is often able to wipe out Russia if they are not careful enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="414" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T20:40:02.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-14T20:55:31.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like No Thanks, a small little game from Z-MAN. The rules take about 3 minutes to explain and games go in no more than 10 minutes, and while there's a lot of luck, there's also a lot of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want something more involved, my single favorite card game to date is Wizard. It's fast-moving (but a bit long to play the whole game), and is familiar to players of Hearts, Spades or other trick-based card games. There's enough luck to let beginners get in the door, but enough strategy you can't win by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="413" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T20:55:31.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-14T21:38:56.793" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;H2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Settlers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/H2&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually introduce new people with Settlers, which lets them see that games can have different mechanics than the usual family games they're used to, but is still pretty simple to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T04:44:12.040" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T04:44:12.040" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-14T21:41:08.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;h1&gt;Power Grid&lt;/h1&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has very few rules to get to grips with, but strategically quite varied. It does not take long for someone to realise that money and resources is key to winning the game, but the change of turn order, buying the right power plants at the right time, give a great mix of strategic fun that is quick to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group introduced a new player using power grid, and he was up and running in minutes, and has never looked back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-11-14T21:41:08.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T00:25:38.067" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40692/small-world&quot;&gt;Small World&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've taught several people Small World as their first game outside the regular realm of Monopoly and Sorry, and almost everybody wants to play it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small World is an area control game dressed up as a wargame. People understand the point and the theme right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really only got one mechanic which makes it easy to teach, and a zillion combinations of race / special power which makes it eminently replayable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T00:25:38.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T01:11:57.947" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9209/ticket-to-ride&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; are the two games that we generally use. We have been so successful with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14996/ticket-to-ride-europe&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride Europe&lt;/a&gt; that not only have friends bought the game but they have taught it to friends of friends who have also gone and bought the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="380" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T01:31:18.437" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:31:18.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T02:21:03.700" Score="24" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base set for Dominion is really simple to teach. I find that non-gamers are able to grok the rules a bit easier than gamers.  The mechanics are simple although I think people can get hung up on the discarding your entire hand at the end of your turn.  It's pretty easy to see the strategic options, not very easy to get it working in your favor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T02:21:03.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T02:40:34.097" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/pandemic.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, cooperatives are easy to teach because there are no issues with advising players on what to do. With Pandemic, it's really not a problem to look at another player's cards and help them make decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T02:40:34.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-11-15T02:49:43.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/LooneyPyramids.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Treehouse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Treehouse and other Looney Labs pyramid games are excellent for playing in a bar evnironment, in fact the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.looneylabs.com/Martian-Coasters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Martian Coasters&lt;/a&gt; was created for with this in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T02:49:43.703" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T09:30:24.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2633/dog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dog&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/32346/super-tock-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tock/TAC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most folks should already be familiar with Pachisi style games so explaining the rest to them is easy and the game is a lot more fun that the more traditional versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T09:30:24.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T09:55:20.830" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khet_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Khet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fits the bill perfectly. Stratigically similar to chess but without much less complex rules. Most people pick it up after a few turns&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="127" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:47:12.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-15T10:38:14.840" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39856/dixit&quot;&gt;Dixit&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/55660/dixit-2&quot;&gt;Dixit 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played this last evening with my family which included my kids whom are 6 years old and my grandma who is 92. None of them knew the rules beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I spent roughly 3 minutes covering scoring and how to play. It's not overly strategic perhaps but it's loads of fun for everyone including people who normally do not play much games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2010-11-15T10:44:00.357" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T10:44:00.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="891" CreationDate="2010-11-15T11:57:31.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term &quot;dead hand&quot; is maybe ambiguous. The certainly most common use is for hands that may no further participate in the game due to a critical, usually accidental, mistake. This is related, but not identical to chombo (a usually intentional mistake by a player that ends the round and forces the offender to pay mangan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The OP was referring to MCR rules. I am not very familiar with MCR, but to gain a basic understanding of the term, let me refer you to these (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osamuko.com/japanese-general-laws-of-mahjong/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;simplified&lt;/a&gt;) rules for dead hands in riichi mahjong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The following actions result in a dead hand:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking at the tiles in an opponents hand or the dead wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawing a tile before the opponent before you has discarded, or drawing in any inappropriate way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making an invalid CHI, PON or KAN or declaring one invalidly. This includes KUIGAE.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A hand is dead immediately after any of the above conditions are noticed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player with a dead hand may not declare CHI PON KAN or a win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player with a dead hand is considered NOTEN, even if his hand is TENPAI.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://santiago.mapache.org/games/mahjong/mjdefs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found&lt;/a&gt; one other use of the term &quot;dead hand&quot;, but I have never seen this elsewhere:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A hand in which no one completes a winning hand before all tiles except the Dead Wall have been drawn. The round ends then with no winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T11:57:31.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1367" CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:21:25.217" Score="9" ViewCount="427" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many possible starting hands are there in Texas Hold'em?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="417" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T23:03:19.357" Title="Starting Hands in Texas Hold'em" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1365" CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:33:23.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1326&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia,  using the formula (52 * 51) / 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poker_probability_%28Texas_hold_%27em%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poker_probability_%28Texas_hold_%27em%29&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T18:33:23.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1365" CreationDate="2010-11-15T18:41:04.467" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;169&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Chris is technically correct, as far as strategy is concerned, there is no difference between having an Ace &amp;amp; King of spades vs. Ace &amp;amp; King of hearts. There is however a difference between having a suited Ace &amp;amp; King vs. a non-suited Ace &amp;amp; King. Looking at it that way, there are 169 possible starting hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="352" LastActivityDate="2010-11-15T18:41:04.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1371" CreationDate="2010-11-15T22:32:02.303" Score="16" ViewCount="16227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing Monopoly with my friends and I'm known for giving extra money or trading a cheaper property with a more expensive one and even paying some amount on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvioulsy I love the smaller cards, as I can buy more houses in a short amount of time and earn more money in the long run. This strategy did work really well most of the time, but lately I'm paying too much for those properties.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if there is a quick method to figure out when a trade gives me positive expected value (+ev).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="419" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T04:48:33.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T17:45:10.330" Title="Monopoly: Strategy in trading --how do I compute the expected value of a trade?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1382" CreationDate="2010-11-16T03:06:13.567" Score="10" ViewCount="48743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Axis &amp;amp; Allies in a while, and I'm currently getting my butt handed to me in an online match (partly due to a failed &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/475/6&quot;&gt;Kwabang&lt;/a&gt; attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got what I feel is a solid grip on Russia and US strategies (build tons of infantry, and put pressure on Africa and the Pacific, respectively), but I'm rusty on my U.K. strategies.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that Germany has taken out the U.K. fleet, and still has a strong fleet/air force available, what are the best opening moves for the U.K.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T09:19:56.593" Title="Axis &amp; Allies - Opening strategies for the U.K." Tags="|axis-and-allies|openings|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2010-11-16T10:51:19.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a quick method, but there are a few simple rules to consider when trading your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How much is the card worth to you. Therefore, what can you do with the money you gain as opposed to what could you do with the card you are selling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How much is the card worth to your opponent. If you are selling a card that allows an opponent to complete a row, you have to understand how likely they are to build houses/hotels and the likelihood of it affecting your game plan further into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If selling to an opponent who doesn't really need the card, consider the likelihood of them selling the card on, and the impact this will have, as per point 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For buying a card, the rules are pretty much the same as above, but inverse. You always need to weigh up the benefits you gain as opposed to what your opponent &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; gain, and think several moves ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, take a look at this thread about the best ROI for properties. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/46/7&quot;&gt;Which property group colour gives the best ROI , undeveloped or fully developed, in Monopoly?&lt;/a&gt;. This will help you to calculate the real values of the properties in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T10:51:19.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2010-11-16T12:52:23.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tikal_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tikal&lt;/a&gt; is a great board game for 2 to 4 players, and it plays very well with two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T12:52:23.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1378" CreationDate="2010-11-16T14:32:25.373" Score="12" ViewCount="2217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find myself always purchasing games that have similar game mechanics. I prefer worker-placement games, and railroad tycoon type games. All of these games borrow from each other in terms of how the game plays. I find this type of game suits my strategic style of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now want to introduce something new to my gaming group, and want to know what type of game mechanics I am really missing out on, and why they add to the overall experience of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is what other type of game mechanics make a game more interesting to play, increase the strategic element and really make the game what it is. The type of thing I am after is similar comments to a conversation at my last gaming meeting, which was&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I much prefer Age of Steam to Railroad Tycoon, because of the way the resources are replenished. Where as Railroad Tycoon can dry up a city's resource quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T20:25:14.090" Title="Board Game Mechanics" Tags="|mechanics|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-12-19T20:18:07.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-11-16T17:40:06.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We used to play Pieces of Eight when we were drinking, but the rules get so complicated a few beers usually had us trying to buy more beer with the coins. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/piecesofeight/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.atlas-games.com/piecesofeight/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Mutant" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T17:40:06.090" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:03:30.600" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thoroughly enjoy games that force players to interact with each other.  If players have to directly interact with each other in order to advance in the game, I find that rather fun.  It lets you get to know your friends better, and encourages them to talk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy resource trading in games likes &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; immensely.  While there are only a few rules governing how players trade, these interactions set the tone of the game.  If you can cut a deal that helps you get the resources you need, this really helps you advance towards the game.  However, how willing people are to trade with you is directly affected by how you've treated them in the past, this game and others, and what your offering them in return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also enjoyed how &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt; requires you to anticipate what other players think your doing.  Citadels requires you to choose characters that helps you with a special ability each around.  In Citadels, if your predictable in how you chose your character, you become an easy target to be either assassinated or robbed.  I find the decisions and thought process I go through to choose a character, and the interactions that develop very rewarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are downsides to games with a lot of social interactions.  I have one friend who is ruthless in Citadels and tends to cause one or more of the players to gang up on him during the course of the game.  A number of us prefer not to sit next to him since this gives him a leg up on guess what character you've chosen.  This tension though, makes the game more interesting to me.  I've also noticed he rarely wins in Citadels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are games though, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/74/apples-to-apples&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt;, that consist mostly of social interaction.  I enjoy those also, but find they can get a little boring after a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T18:03:30.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:10:48.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the way &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tigris_and_Euphrates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tigris and Euphrates&lt;/a&gt; allows a user to sabotage someone's game plan. In games like Brass, I have been in situations where a player has built a link that has blocked me off from building, due to the way coal must be shipped to the location. &#xA;Therefore, If I was able to blow up the rail link, and build over it, I think this would add an extra level of strategy, as a play could never become certain of their super position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T18:10:48.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-16T18:45:40.557" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resource track in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2651/power-grid&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt; leads to some interesting decisions.  If you haven't played it, the resource track has costs increasing left-to-right while the resources are replenished from &lt;em&gt;right-to-left&lt;/em&gt;.  This has a few interesting effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resources in demand tend to cost more.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get resources on the cheap if you have a power plant type no one else is using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can hoard resources (up to a point) to make them more costly for everyone else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have to make tough choices, especially since turn order is so important in Power Grid.  The player in the lead goes &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; when buying resources.  So a player can forego easy victory points in the short term to set up better prices for himself.  It adds another dimension to the decision-making process, and those decisions matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T18:45:40.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-16T19:10:58.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great element of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28720/brass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brass&lt;/a&gt; is that a Player gets two actions per turn, and the turn order changes based on the amount of money that is spent per round (the lowest amount spent is the first to go next). This allows a player to have upto 4 actions in a row, which makes hiding one's strategy quite effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mechanic keep players on their toes because it does not expose someone's strategy and makes it more difficult to defend against. This forces players to be more diverse in their own play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T19:10:58.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-16T21:36:45.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I particularly like the strategy cards from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12493/twilight-imperium-third-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twilight Imperium&lt;/a&gt;.  At the beginning of a round, everyone chooses a strategy card that gives each player a different special ability for that round.  On your turn, one of your options is to activate your special ability.  Most cards also come with a secondary ability that the other players can execute at that time.  Since the drawing order varies from round to round, it's an important strategic element to be able to choose the strategy card you want.  In a large game, odds are you won't be drawing first much of the time, so you'll need to make the best of what's available on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another game with a similar mechanic (though I've not played it) is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-11-16T21:36:45.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1384" CreationDate="2010-11-17T00:03:11.313" Score="14" ViewCount="4508" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite &lt;strong&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/strong&gt; being a cooperative game, one of the glaring holes I noticed the first time I played was that it doesn't appear that multiple investigators can attack a single monster, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read the rules a couple of times, but wanted to make completely sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two investigators are in the same space as a single monster, Investigator A has to either Evade the monster or pass a Horror check, then fight until they either win, flee or die.  If Investigator A flees or dies, Investigator B has the same option to either Evade or pass a Horror check, and fight as normal.  At no time can they somehow gang up together and add their Combat together against the monster, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T19:01:16.450" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T19:01:16.450" Title="Arkham Horror -- multiple investigators assisting in a combat?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2010-11-17T00:13:41.940" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are three basic strategies for the UK:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Focus on India&lt;/strong&gt; - with this approach, the UK cedes Africa to Germany. On the first turn, the UK builds a factory in India and uses its transport to move its two troops in Egypt to India, as well as the Egyptian tank and Syrian infantry into Persia (to move into India next turn). The fighters that start in the UK are moved to Karelia and then to India. For this tactic to work, UK must build troops and tanks in India each turn and continually harass Japan in Burma.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Focus on Africa&lt;/strong&gt; - here, UK cedes India to Japan and focuses on holding Africa. UK starts by moving her troops and fighter from India into Egypt. Sometimes people will build a factory in South Africa when going with this approach.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignore Africa and India in the Early Game&lt;/strong&gt; - with this approach UK does not build any factories. Some players build a bomber the first turn to have two bombers to take out the German fleet in the Mediterranean. Others build nothing the first turn, saving it for a carrier and transports for turn two. The general strategy here is to bide your time, prepare for a joint invasion of Africa and/or France with the US, and then make your move. In this approach, Germany will usually take Africa early on (although they won't hold it presuming their navy has been sunk) and Japan will take India early (and will hold all of Asia for most of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Focus on India&lt;/strong&gt; approach is designed to slow Japan down, to make her focus on building up forces and taking India rather than moving west toward Moscow. Against weaker players you may be able to force Japan off Asia from this factory (with reinforcement fighters from UK via Karelia), but against stronger players the factory is doomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Focus on Africa&lt;/strong&gt; approach is aimed at bottling Germany up in Europe. This works best if you still have your Med sub after turn one and if you were fortunate enough to take out a number of German fighters when they attacked the UK sea zone. With this approach you need to kill off the German Med navy ASAP and then reclaim Africa from within. This almost always works against weaker players, and usually works if Germany has poor rolls at the beginning. If Germany had decent rolls and the player is good, you're going to lose your South African factory sooner than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer and usually play the &lt;strong&gt;Ignore Africa and India in the Early Game&lt;/strong&gt;, especially if I'm going against someone who is a strong player. With this approach you don't spend any additional money or time on India or Africa in the early game. Instead, you build transports, a carrier, and coordinate with the US to take Africa back later (after the German Med navy is destroyed) via landing at Algeria from Spain Sea Zone. With this tactic you are letting Japan have Asia without much effort, so you'll need to make sure Russia heavily fortifies her capital and ensure that the US/UK can get their troop pipeline into Karelia going sooner than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't yet read &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Don's Axis and Allies Strategic Essays&lt;/a&gt;, I heartily recommend them. They give a good overview of the Axis and Allies primary goals and tactics, and then delve into suggested opening moves and game-long plans for each power. (Don is a proponent of the &lt;strong&gt;Focus on India&lt;/strong&gt; strategy for the UK.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-07T09:19:56.593" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T09:19:56.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-11-17T01:27:39.690" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct. With the exception of the Final Battle, all combat is one-on-one. Investigators cannot team up against monsters, and multiple monsters in a single location do not team up against an investigator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T01:27:39.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1391" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:01:16.463" Score="23" ViewCount="1915" Body="&lt;p&gt;It takes quite a lot of time to set up Puerto Rico, especially when switching between games with a different numbers of players; a quarter of an hour I'd say. The problem is that it is rather time consuming to separate the different types of chips, count the colonists and victory points, restrict the number of plantations, putting the buildings on the board, etc... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm probably asking the impossible, but does anyone know a trick to cut down this rather long set up time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:05:50.257" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T01:05:50.257" Title="How to minimize Puerto Rico setup time?" Tags="|puerto-rico|game-setup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:31:54.220" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly -- the trick is do all the prep work &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you finish a game.  Once you are done with the game, sort everything out for the next game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These instructions all assume you will want to take into account the &lt;strong&gt;2-Player variant&lt;/strong&gt; when sorting; if you want to ignore the 2-player variant, ignore the bullets flagged with two stars (**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I play a lot of the 2-player variant because I have a hard time finding a third, so I have plastic bags labelled &lt;strong&gt;2 Players&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;3 Players&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;4 Players&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;5 Players&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;** For the 2-player variant, I have sorted out 2 of each production building and 1 of each purple building into one of the trays, and have the remaining buildings in a separate tray labeled &quot;3+ Player Buildings&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;** I have removed three of each type of plantation, and placed the remainder of the plantations in one of the tray spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;** The &lt;strong&gt;2 Player&lt;/strong&gt;  bag contains:  65 victory points, 42 colonists.  It also contains all the barrels of goods &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; for 2 barrels of each type (per the 2-player rules).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;3 Player&lt;/strong&gt; bag contains 10 more victory points, 13 more colonists, and the remaining plantation tiles and goods barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternately, if you don't ever plan on playing with only 2 players, the &lt;strong&gt;3 Player&lt;/strong&gt; bag should contain the base 75 victory ponits and 55 colonists.  You won't need to sort out plantations or barrels in this case.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;4 Player&lt;/strong&gt; bag contains 25 more victory points, and 20 more colonists.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;5 Player&lt;/strong&gt; bag contains the last 22 victory points, and the last 20 colonists.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you write the contents of what the 3, 4 and 5 player bags should have, you can fill those up, and the remainder goes into the 2 player bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all you'll have to do is fish out the necessary corn and indigo plantations to determine who goes first, and you're all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T12:37:47.927" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T12:37:47.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1381" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:35:57.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, as mentioned above, combat is one-on-one. Just wanted to add that there are rules for &quot;team battles&quot; at Arkham Investigations if you want to use them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arkhaminvestigations.barkingdoginteractive.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://arkhaminvestigations.barkingdoginteractive.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:35:57.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1390" CreationDate="2010-11-17T12:39:57.553" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's two types of answer to this depending on whether you mind longer putting-away times or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're happy to put some extra effort into packing the pieces away, then a huge amount of time can be saved by storing the components in bags related to the number of players.  For example a &quot;3 player&quot; victory point bag with 75 VPs in, a &quot;4 player&quot; victory point bag with 25 VPs in (100-75), and a &quot;5 player&quot; victory point bag with 22 VPs in (122-100).  To play with 4 players simple get out the bags for three and four players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same trick can be applied to the colonists.  There is an example of this being done very neatly here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/841793/puerto-rico&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/841793/puerto-rico&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming instead that you want to save time overall then I know of a few other things that help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same idea behind having separate bags can be applied, by marking some of the victory point chips and colonists.  For example it wouldn't affect the gameplay to have colonists painted in three different shades of brown or the front of the victory point chips marked with small dots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively colonists can be counted very quickly when they are flat on a surface by using two straight edges.  The trick is to push them into a triangular shape and then select colonists by the number of rows.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/76638/puerto-rico&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt;, and the comments below it, for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final obvious, but sometimes overlooked, way to speed up the game set up, is to distribute the tasks.  I usually end up doing this as otherwise some players have a tendency to stand back until the game is ready to begin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T12:39:57.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:32:02.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dominion strategy blog&lt;/a&gt; has a bunch of interesting combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorites are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/2010/11/17/combo-of-the-day-11-black-markettactician/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black Market/Tactician&lt;/a&gt;: Use the black markets ability to play (not neccesarily even spend!) your money before the buy phase, to subvert the tacticians &quot;throw away your hand&quot; downside.  You got to keep your money AND play the tactician!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/2010/11/12/combo-of-the-day-5-ambassadorcurse/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ambassador/Curse&lt;/a&gt;:  After you get your deck small, intentionally buy a curse to &quot;upgrade&quot; your ambassador into a sea hag!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/2010/11/12/combo-of-the-day-1-quarrytalisman/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quarry/Talisman&lt;/a&gt;:  Talisman lets you gain an additional card when it costs &amp;lt;= 4.  Quarry reduces action costs by 2.  Play a Quarry and Talisman together and for a single buy of a six cost action for $4, you get an additional one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:32:02.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1399" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:40:42.450" Score="10" ViewCount="1464" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using a &quot;repeating&quot; action, such as Throne room, with a &quot;choice&quot; action, such as Pawn or Nobles, can you make a different choice on each repeated action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Throne Room states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose an action from your hand, play it twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobles states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose one: +3 cards, +2 actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing these two cards, can you make the choice to get +3 cards from the first play of Nobles, and +2 actions from the second play of Nobles triggered by Throne Room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you may choose each time, what order are these actions resolved? Would I gain 3 cards, then the second Nobles choice is made, or are both Nobles actions simultaneous, so both choices have to be made before the first can be resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T20:00:22.807" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T20:00:22.807" Title="Dominion rule clarification: Repeater actions + choice actions" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-17T15:59:07.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/202/targui&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Targui&lt;/a&gt; has a nice way to divide the turns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are 5 turn cards for each player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dice is thrown, if the result is 1-5 shuffle that amount of turn cards. On a 6 only one card is shuffled. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your color is drawn, you can have your turn. On a 6 everybody has 2 turns in a row.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player controls a tribe of desert people. The board consists of 7 x 7 tiles. Each having their own proberties. Your goal is to have the most resource points in the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use your camels to occupy territory and you can fight with each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each stack of turn cards has an event card added. Which can be benificial or sometimes even disastrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you never know when its your turn, you need to be prepared for almost anything. (the other player can have 3 or more turns before you can act).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T15:59:07.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-11-17T16:01:21.253" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read this as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Play it twice&quot; applied to &lt;code&gt;Pawn&lt;/code&gt; means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;code&gt;Pawn&lt;/code&gt; and then&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;code&gt;Pawn&lt;/code&gt; again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. there are two subsequent plays of pawn, which implies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can make different choices during each play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Benefits you gain during the first play are available during the second play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="432" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T16:01:21.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1396" CreationDate="2010-11-17T16:23:03.590" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as choice and action resolution goes, it's as though you have two of the card, and play them one after the other. Using Noble as the example in this case, one could choose to draw three cards during the first play, then, based on the cards you draw you could decide whether you want the +2 actions or three more cards. Nobles is my favorite card to stack with Throne Room, by far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another example, let's say you play a Golem on top of a Throne Room. You would draw through your deck until you get two action cards, then determine the order in which you want to play them, then resolve all their actions (if one of them were a Throne Room, you would also resolve the actions of the card you stack on it twice), then draw through your deck until you get two more action cards, then determine the order in which you want to play them, then resolve their actions, one after the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's important to note that what I'm saying here is really just an expanded version of S.P.Floyd - seanizer's answer, which was here before mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T16:23:03.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-17T18:13:08.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16992/tsuro&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tsuro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the absolutely simplest game I've ever had when it comes to teaching people how to play it.  Tsuro is an abstract strategy game where players lay a tile and following the path through the tile.  The object is to be the last person on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can describe the rules of the game in under two minutes, and have people playing shortly afterwards.  This isn't a deep game, but it's fun, and people quickly learn it.  I've used it as a warm up game when I've had friends over for game night before diving into something more complex.  It plays well with 2-8 players and plays fairly quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T18:13:08.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-17T18:55:11.713" Score="5" ViewCount="1798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Castle Ravenloft is a new game, but already it's struck a chord with me.  I enjoy playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with it being a new game is that the rules and errata haven't quite been fleshed out .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when you spawn two monsters on one tile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T05:23:48.323" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T05:23:48.323" Title="How to resolve spawning two monsters on one tile in Castle Ravenloft" Tags="|castle-ravenloft|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-17T20:32:21.690" Score="10" ViewCount="10451" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find other adventures for Castle Ravenloft? So far I've only found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Article.aspx?x=dnd/duad/20100816&quot;&gt;the two bonus adventures&lt;/a&gt; that WotC released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T05:23:22.847" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T15:00:26.567" Title="Extra Adventures for Castle Ravenloft" Tags="|variants|castle-ravenloft|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1407" CreationDate="2010-11-17T21:40:39.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BoardGameGeek &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/59946/dungeons-dragons-castle-ravenloft-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Castle RavenLoft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; has quite a few used-made scenarios and extra characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most are listed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/forum/553200/dungeons-dragons-castle-ravenloft-board-game/variants&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variants&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; forum, although you may look around in there a bit and find some others under &quot;rules&quot; maybe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my favorites is &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/564387/crypts-and-creepers-unofficial-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crypts And Creepers&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, although it's more of an &lt;em&gt;'expansion'&lt;/em&gt;, not just another scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WotC&lt;/a&gt; is also having a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/promotions.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build your own scenario&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&quot; competition, so you should see more available on-line when that happens also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link I just found that has most of the user-created adventures listed and ranked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/59113/item/1424794#item1424794&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG Castle RavenLoft Adventure Database&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T21:40:39.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1406" CreationDate="2010-11-17T21:53:43.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On each tile, there is a skull pile on the floor.  When the first monster is placed on the tile, it is placed on the skull tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each subsequent monster placed on that tile is placed as close to the skull pile as possible, so any square adjacent to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is stated in the rulebook, but I don't have it in fromt of me, so I will add the page number later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that there is a huge need for house rules.  I think that the rules are succinct and well written.  I think that it can be easy to put too much thought into this game, and if you let go of the need to make it &quot;D&amp;amp;D&quot;, you will find that the rules work quite nicely without customization &lt;em&gt;'needed'&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy this game and take it out whenever I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T21:53:43.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2010-11-17T23:11:24.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you try something with auctions or haggling. They provide immediate player interaction, but they also have strategic depth. (How much is this worth to me? How much is it worth to you?) One of the most popular games that I've played using auctions is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/46/medici&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Medici&lt;/a&gt;. A paper and pencil game that distills auctions and stock markets to their essence is Eric Solomon's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sholing.force9.co.uk/middlema.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Middleman&lt;/a&gt;. One of my personal favourites is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14/basari&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basari&lt;/a&gt;, and it's unusual in that I think it's best for three players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-11-17T23:11:24.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2010-11-18T00:17:20.120" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't say whether you're playing with the Farmers of the Moor expansion; if so, the following suggestion may not apply, as having to heat your 4-room wooden house becomes quite an operation, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the standard game, I'd say that growing your family is THE dominant strategy, especially playing against newbies.  If you can accumulate 10 wood and 4 reed and build two extra rooms (ideally, in one action) shortly after the first harvest, then grow your family twice in advance of most of the other players, all the extra actions you'll be getting will soon give you an insuperable advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, the real key to winning Agricola is to slurp up and make best use of undervalued resources; so, if everyone is dead set on building rooms, do something different!  Rather than battling strenuously for wood, be the first to 2 clay, build the Fireplace and see your food problems vanish when you pick up a flock of sheep that no one else could do anything with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that newbies often don't spot is that, while getting food through baking bread or slaughtering animals are both fine, especially when backed up with Occupations and/or Minor Improvements, there is a third way, the way of Major Improvements.  The Basketmaker's Workshop in particular is great at providing both food and victory points, in the many games where players undervalue reed because, after they've built a room or two, it doesn't do very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking of Major Improvements, notice that the Well is often cheaper and better than renovating to Stone; and if you get it early enough provides you with a nice little food bonus too.  Don't get fixated on renovation, unless you can get a really good Major Improvement (or in the last round, Fences) on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I concur with other posters who advise not to get hung up on Occupations too much.  Unless an Occupation is going to save you two or more subsequent actions in the course of the game, it's questionable whether you should be playing it at all.  As such, there are some which are obviously good to play (hello Field Watchman etc), but oh so many that are traps, when you could be doing something properly constructive on your farm.  Then again, it can be worth using the Occupation square early on, just to make sure other players don't get their busted cards out too easily!  Since your first Occupation costs no food, of course, and Occupations are usually at their best when played early.  But if the player to your right is hogging the space, don't worry, just smile and grab the Wood that he's foolishly neglecting to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's enough for the time being I think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T00:17:20.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="473" CreationDate="2010-11-18T00:28:10.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once attackers have been declared, tapping them usually has no effect, but there are exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose a creature with Vigilance has been declared as an attacker.  You can surely tap it, and perhaps gain an advantage thereby (e.g. being able to attack next turn without it being able to block); it just won't remove the creature from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little confusingly, if a creature is regenerated mid-combat, it is both tapped AND removed from combat.  But the removal from combat is a property of regeneration, not a property of becoming tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T18:11:11.293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T18:11:11.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1418" CreationDate="2010-11-18T00:41:29.200" Score="33" ViewCount="24677" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's quite a few Occupations in Agricola that elicit a traumatized shudder from hardened Agricola players.  I'm thinking of cards like the Taster, which basically allows one player to be in a position BETTER than being starting player during any round of the game, for the low low cost of 1 food per round.  I've heard that a lot of groups have physically removed the Taster from their set, rather than have to deal with the imbalance it creates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I've had very tight games both playing and playing against the Taster, and I completely crushed an inexperienced player who laid an early Taster in a 5-player game a few days ago, so I'm not TOO worried about &quot;busted&quot; cards.  Even so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have any cards been played in one of your Agricola games that seemed to tip the balance too far in favour of one player, too quickly?  In our group, we groan when we see the Field Watchman (such a no-brainer) and the Wet Nurse; cards whose value is just a little bit too transparent.  What about your group?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Minor Improvements tend to be a little bit better balanced on the whole (coming with costs and limitations as they do), but I'm sure some of them are a LOT better than others.  Any suggestions?  I'm never disappointed to have a plough of some kind among my opening seven...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2010-11-18T14:46:35.100" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T14:03:10.663" Title="What are the most busted cards in Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|balance|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-18T01:29:15.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puzzle games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/51/ricochet-robots&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ricochet Robots&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.matuszek.org/eleusis1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eleusis&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.koryheath.com/games/zendo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zendo&lt;/a&gt; seem to me to be easier to explain than a typical Euro game. Eleusis might not be that simple, but there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logicmazes.com/games/eleusis/express.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eleusis Express&lt;/a&gt; to introduce the game to new players who can then try the full game next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ricochet Robots is a fun series of small puzzles, a real brain burner and very stressful as you race against the other players to find a solution. Eleusis takes longer to investigate and solve each puzzle. It's got much less time pressure, so it feels more relaxed. Still, you are trying to get rid of your cards before the other players, and you can declare yourself a prophet if you think you've figured out the rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T01:29:15.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-11-18T05:43:24.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Go&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 7yo got the hang of go's mechanics in a few turns (you take one of your pieces, put it where two lines intersect on the board, surround opponent pieces or empty space to capture), however there is a great deal of strategy to go, and I've played it for years without learning it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Go's built-in handicapping system makes for challenging games even when players have a great disparity in skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="333" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T05:43:24.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2010-11-18T08:40:40.220" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occi1fieldwatchman.jpg&quot;&gt;Field Watchman&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occe4headofthefamily.jpg&quot;&gt;Head of the Family&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occe3braggart.jpg&quot;&gt;Braggart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In statistics gathered from about 2000 games that used &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/389250/draft-agricola-like-a-magic-booster-draft&quot;&gt;drafting&lt;/a&gt;, these occupations were picked on average earliest by the player who won the game.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/forums/index.php?topic=1598.0&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt; for the full details, and a list of the first chosen minor improvements too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: It turns out that several occupations are not included in these results as they were voted too overpowered by the game participants.  These are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occe3ratcatcher.jpg&quot;&gt;Ratcatcher&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occi4taster.jpg&quot;&gt;Taster&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occi1chamberlain.jpg&quot;&gt;Chamberlain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occk3lover.jpg&quot;&gt;Lover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/occk1wetnurse.jpg&quot;&gt;Wet Nurse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="1862" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T17:23:07.113" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T17:23:07.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1221" CreationDate="2010-11-18T10:46:44.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a basic answer on my question &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sloperama.com/mjfaq/mjfaq08.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;over here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Try to go out waiting for multiple&#xA;  tiles (not just one). Imagine that you&#xA;  have three complete sets and two&#xA;  pairs. Imagine that one pair is 2&#xA;  Bams, and you draw a 3 Bam from the&#xA;  wall -- which tile do you discard now?&#xA;  In this situation, many experienced&#xA;  players will discard a 2 Bam, keeping&#xA;  2-3. A two-way incomplete chow call is&#xA;  better than a two-pair call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Learn to&#xA;  shape the hand into calling patterns&#xA;  that give you multiple chances to win,&#xA;  such as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Tiles in hand     Call for &#xA;&#xA;2223              134 &#xA;2224              34 &#xA;2223344           2345 &#xA;2223334           2345 &#xA;2223456           14736 &#xA;22234 RR          25 R &#xA;23456             147** &#xA;34567             258** &#xA;45678             369**&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Highly skilled players of&#xA;  un-American mah-jongg (since American&#xA;  style alone does not use &quot;chows&quot;) know&#xA;  these patterns by heart. More complex&#xA;  call shapes are mostly extensions of&#xA;  these. Although the American game does&#xA;  not use chows, the strategy of having&#xA;  a multiple-tile call still applies to&#xA;  that game as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of special interest&#xA;  is the complexity of the pure hand. If&#xA;  you're working on a pure hand, it can&#xA;  often be difficult to tell what all&#xA;  the tiles are that can complete the&#xA;  hand. For instance:&#xA;  1-2-3-4-5-5-5-6-6-6-7-8-9 (5 chances);&#xA;  1-2-3-4-5-5-5-5-6-6--7-8-9 (5&#xA;  chances); 2-3-4-4-4-5-5-5-6-6-6-7-8 (7&#xA;  chances); and of course&#xA;  1-1-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-9-9 (9 chances).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: Additional links with a lot more waits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Mahjong_waits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Mahjong_waits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Complex_waits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Complex_waits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reachmahjong.com/en/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=52599&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.reachmahjong.com/en/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=52599&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially the latter is, from my beginner eyes, insanely exhaustive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T11:01:57.513" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T11:01:57.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-18T16:26:02.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a Tactician and a few Banks.  I just discovered this one yesterday; combined with a Festival, I was able to buy three Provinces in one turn, and still have change left over for a smaller card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k3ctF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AJed7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T16:26:02.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="151" CreationDate="2010-11-18T18:40:03.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;h3&gt;(8 players) Move the gold farther away&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group plays Saboteur most frequently with 8 players, and we've developed some house rules for that size that are probably not applicable for smaller groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were already playing with a guaranteed 3 Saboteurs in an 8-player game and with the Saboteurs having knowledge of each other, but wins for the Saboteurs were still very rare and highly dependent on an ideal draw for the Saboteurs' hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recently started moving the gold in this case - the middle treasure card moves back, so it is now 8 cards from the starting point.  The two side treasure cards move out, so that they are 7 cards away in the &quot;forward progress&quot; direction, but 2 cards away from the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We unanimously agree so far that this has led to some extremely fun games - the wider board gives more space to improvise, but punishes good dwarves who dig all the way to the wrong treasure card.  We had one win where the Saboteurs didn't even play any &quot;dead end&quot; pieces, but used their near-monopoly on Map cards to confuse the good dwarves and get them to dig to the wrong treasure.  At that point the good dwarves couldn't QUITE make it back to the correct one with the pieces available, but it would have been a trivial correction in a standard game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spreading the board out like this also makes the pieces that make &quot;sideways progress&quot;, especially the one that splits three ways (&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKqy1.png&quot; alt=&quot;3-way sideways piece&quot;&gt;), much more useful.  Under the normal rules I will almost always consider a straight-sideways piece to be useless as a good dwarf (though obviously it occasionally comes in handy), but with the spread board these pieces can be very key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T18:40:03.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1440" CreationDate="2010-11-18T19:41:51.603" Score="6" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have a friend who plays Cygnar in Warmachine.  I play Protectorate, and he has been playing a LOT of Epic Haley.  Her feat basically makes you 1) Forfeit either an action or a movement and 2) He chooses the order your units activate in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes me some problems, as the style of Protectorate I play is all about synergies and moving correctly.  I have been struggling against her for months now, and am trying to find some kind of strategy against her, whether that be play-style, units/casters, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T16:31:05.933" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T16:31:05.933" Title="What can Protectorate do to counter Epic Haley's Feat?" Tags="|warmachine|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2010-11-18T20:06:37.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doomsday + &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=46424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mind's Desire&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=135262&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beacon of Destruction&lt;/a&gt; is a quick win-the-game combo.  You wouldn't want to be casting Doomsday unless its text basically says &quot;win the game&quot;... if you set it up right, though, it DOES.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T04:53:24.020" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T04:53:24.020" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1427" CreationDate="2010-11-18T21:33:33.980" Score="12" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you use this card strategically?  Since you don't know where any other cards are in your deck, how do you choose where to put this one?  Are there other cards this combines well with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l4Exq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stash: 2 coin Treasure card.  When you shuffle, you may put this anywhere in your deck.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T04:23:09.567" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T04:23:09.567" Title="Dominion - Using Stash" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-11-18T21:38:05.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally you would want to put it on top of your deck.  Getting a silver (essentially) is generally a pretty good move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you create a deck that draws a lot of cards you will be shuffling in the middle of your turn fairly often.  In that case, you definitely know whether you want to draw more treasures now or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T21:38:05.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-11-18T22:01:32.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;How new is the player asking for a take-back to the game, and how much do you want them to want to play the game again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a veteran who regularly wins the game within your group is asking for a take-back, I'd call that very poor form.  If it's a new player who suddenly realizes their mistake, I'd call it poor form to refuse them a second chance.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I played Caylus - quite a complicated game to get your head around! - I asked another player during the move-the-Provost round if I would be safe not paying to move it.  &quot;Oh, I should think so,&quot; he said.  &quot;Okay then, I won't pay.&quot;  The player who'd given me the advice proceeded to pay 3 and deprive me of some key resources.  &quot;Oh,&quot; I said, &quot;so I could have paid the bargain price of 1 and been completely safe from that jerk move?  I didn't understand that, can I take it back?&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other players decided not to let me - which they were in their rights to do so, of course, but I'd still call it poor form.  As a result, I decided I didn't like Caylus much and didn't play it again for a couple of years.  At which point I discovered I actually really liked it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T22:01:32.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-11-18T22:11:56.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the real world, monopolistic business practices are lame and objectionable.  I see no reason why playing the evil, evil Monopoly card in as evil a fashion as possible.  Preferably accompanied with the twirling of one's moustache, and/or the line &quot;I didn't come to this island to make friends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, it's a game!  In which the actions you take may make life harder for the other players.  Is it &quot;objectionable&quot; to move the robber onto another player's tile instead of the Desert?  Yes, the more &quot;underhandedly&quot; you behave the more likely it is that the other players will stop trading with you, or otherwise act to make your life more difficult.  But let's try to remember that being fairly despicable in a competitive in-game persona is NOT the same as being despicable in real life.  Anyone who holds a grudge after the game has been cleared away is taking things a little &lt;i&gt;too&lt;/i&gt; seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T22:11:56.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-11-18T22:58:48.487" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's awesome.  If you milked some resources out of me with a trade, and then mono'ed them to the traded goods back, I would first scream in pain, and then offer you a hearty congratulations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am surprised so many people think it's poor form.  The first time I saw someone do it, I thought it was simply brilliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T12:29:59.597" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T12:29:59.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2010-11-18T23:38:35.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't do it unless it was VERY likely to win me the game. Having done it once I can attest that some people won't take it well. On the otherhand if someone did it to me, they had better have just won because I wouldn't trade w/ them again that game, and I'd apply all of my diplomatic skills towards hindering their trading w/ other players. I might also be a little more circumspect about trading w/ them in the next game or two, and also a LOT more likely to try and do the same thing back to them the first chance I got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-11-18T23:38:35.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:17:00.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like what they call in Magic design a &quot;skill-testing&quot; card to me.  For the price of this card, you could have bought a Silver instead.  A Silver will be better than a Coppersmith in your hand unless you have, what, 3 Coppers?  Crucially, a Silver won't cost you an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, there are probably some scenarios people can come up with where you draw a ton of cards including Coppers, and extra actions, and Coppersmiths, and you generate a fortune.  However!  If you can assemble that kind of drawing power, you could probably have assembled a different, better kind of deck instead.  Simply put, the Coppersmith is going to pay off once in a blue moon, when you draw Coppersmith plus four Copper in the same hand and buy yourself a Province.  The rest of the time it seems more likely to sit around and clog up your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do yourself a favour and buy a Silver instead!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T00:17:00.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:21:20.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fun w/ Wishing Well. Once you have 4 of them you can stack 'em together ensuring Province every deck-cycle. If there are other deck revealing/attack style stuff in play (Thief, Pirate Ship, Swindler, etc) you can put them near (but not directly on) the top of your deck so they aren't affected and you'll still draw them next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T00:21:20.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1224" CreationDate="2010-11-19T00:28:18.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coppersmith + Countinghouse + a card that gives extra actions (Village,Shanty, etc) is pretty ridiculous, especially if you also have something that gives extra buys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T00:28:18.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1464" CreationDate="2010-11-19T03:30:37.230" Score="8" ViewCount="3550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty straight-forward question here: In the 2- and 6-player versions of &lt;strong&gt;Power Grid&lt;/strong&gt;, you are instructed to use only &lt;strong&gt;3 areas&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;5 areas&lt;/strong&gt; respectively, but it doesn't say &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; to pick the areas, leaving it up to the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good recommendations for determining which areas are in/out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T03:17:14.900" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T03:17:14.900" Title="Determining which areas to use in 2- or 6-player Power Grid" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1435" CreationDate="2010-11-19T06:08:09.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it really matters so much.  But you could randomize it, or else agree to rotate through each of the possibilities on a game-by-game basis, to create as much variety as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many connoisseurs seem to think that Power Grid is much better for 3-5 players, mind you, so if the lack of hard-and-fast rules for how to set up the 2 or 6 player games is bugging you, it might not be a bad idea to try not to play with that many players, so far as possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T06:08:09.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1435" CreationDate="2010-11-19T09:15:11.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just let the guys who go first pick the areas one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T09:15:11.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1424" CreationDate="2010-11-19T12:07:01.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is incredibly obvious when this feat will be used. In competitive games it will most likely be turn 2 if the Cygnar player went first, or MAYBE turn 1 if you went first, so plan for it and know that your second turn will be spent largly doing nothing. Play that turn defensively, cast defensive spells and back up, or duck into terrain. Depending on your caster, you might be able to hide a significant portion of your force only to have it bust out of the trees the next round and deal maximum damage. Just don't let the Haley player bog you down. Insist that he pick which models activate in what order in a very timely fashion so that you can end your turn and be on to the next quickly.&#xA;If you make the Cygnar army unable to see your army he can't really capitalize on knowing that your next turn is going to be rubbish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T12:07:01.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1446" CreationDate="2010-11-19T12:56:35.503" Score="12" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the idea of a continuation bet, where you bet again on the flop, after a pre-flop raise. However, I'm not that sure on when I should and shouldn't do it. I tend to do it if I get the idea (from other players checking, say), that other players have missed the flop, but it would be useful to have more specific things to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how big should continuation bets be? I've heard between half and the full pot as a guide, with the higher end for if the flop has high draw potential (lots of hearts, say).  Is that reasonable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much does it make a difference if I have hit the flop or not? Also, how much of a difference is there between cash games and tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="442" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T17:03:21.530" Title="When to make a continuation bet and how much in Texas Hold'em?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1442" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-19T14:48:55.377" Score="7" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long does it take to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30380/cuba&quot;&gt;Cuba&lt;/a&gt;? And does the playing vary considerably between different numbers of players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-19T15:00:19.623" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:16:30.030" Title="How long does it take to play Cuba?" Tags="|cuba|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:52:55.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This site was AWESOME: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.agricolaonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.agricolaonline.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until the guy had to take it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;play-agricola.com was around before agricola online, but its interface is pretty atrocious and you still have to manually reload all the bits and everything.  I'd rather not play or just play the physical game than use play-agricola.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="445" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:52:55.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1435" CreationDate="2010-11-19T15:55:26.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always done it either a) randomly or b) let the newest player pick, which often leads to the same results as randomly.  :)  I have never had a case of only 2 players, but with 6 that seems to work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T15:55:26.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1441" CreationDate="2010-11-19T16:02:19.777" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that you want to make a continuation bet a large percentage of the time if you have signalled you are in the lead and no opponent has signalled otherwise.  What this &quot;large percentage&quot; is probably depends on what you are comfortable with and how aggressive you are, but I would estimate it would vary from 50% to 100%.  Continuation betting on every single flop will make you predictable.  You should also factor in how tight the table is - placing the bet more at a tight table and less at a loose table or against loose opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't vary your bet based on whether or not you hit the flop.  This gives a signal to your opponents which will eventually allow good opponents to tell whether you hit the flop. Vary your bet based only on the texture of the flop - as you mentioned, a flop with more draw possibilities rates a larger bet, although some flops may be so dangerous that you may not make a continuation bet at all (i.e. Jh, Qh, Kh) if you did not catch a piece of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T16:02:19.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2010-11-19T17:19:25.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4742165_play-liar-card-game.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liar&lt;/a&gt; is simple, requires some tactics to have a chance to win and can be played by all ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="309" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T17:19:25.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2010-11-19T18:02:38.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Spoof&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really short of materiel but can scrape together three coins per player, then &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoof_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoof&lt;/a&gt; might be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be useful in working out whose round it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T18:02:38.063" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-11-19T19:27:38.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as combinations go, this card is good with anything that makes you reshuffle your deck  more frequently - Chancellor, obviously, but also Chapel or Trade Route or anything else that's commonly used to keep your deck size down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T19:27:38.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1435" CreationDate="2010-11-19T19:28:04.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, we decide as a group whether we want to use the more-dense or the less-dense areas of the map (at least on the U.S. map).  It's all about whether we feel like making everybody pay those high connection prices in the west.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-19T19:28:04.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1454" CreationDate="2010-11-20T02:14:07.003" Score="22" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Arkham Horror for the first time and I randomly drew Bob Jenkins as my investigator. With some of the other players' characters, their &quot;purpose&quot; is pretty clear. There's the guy with high fight who starts with a sweet weapon, the guy with high lore and tons of spells, etc. With Bob, I'm not seeing a clear path to how I can best contribute. What type of strategies or tactics should I be employing to make the best use of my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="107" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:45:23.770" Title="Strategies for Bob Jenkins" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1453" CreationDate="2010-11-20T03:20:41.950" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob Jenkins is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rich!  $9 -&gt; Go shopping for Unique Items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has stuff: 2 common and 2 uniques, hopefully he starts with some good stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Well rounded: 4 Sanity and 6 Stamina is a great split.  Enough Sanity to allow missing a horror check or two, and enough stamina to get down and dirty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonably fast - speeds 4 and 5 are not out of the question.  Bob can get from place to place quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has a strong will, minimum 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can hopefully compensate for his somewhat poor fight skill with some good items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing Bob, you should be aggressive.  Bob has the stats and should have the items to allow him to survive most bad things.  If you get lucky and start with an &lt;strong&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/strong&gt;, go off world as quick as you can.  If not, see if you can buy an Elder Sign, or start grabbing clue tokens.  Favor the locations where common items are found to take advantage of the &lt;strong&gt;Shrewd Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; ability.  Bob may not be the best investigator at any particular thing, but odds are, he is the second best at most things in a normal group.  Use him to fill in for whatever your team is lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/lv?key=0AliZyklaTCWzcGFQTWdvZW5jc1JwcHEzUEVZV1htUVE&amp;amp;hl=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Statistics Report&lt;/a&gt;, Bob has the 7th highest winning percentage (out of 48 characters) in October 2010.  For November, he has moved to 6th.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T12:45:23.770" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:45:23.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1457" CreationDate="2010-11-20T17:13:29.050" Score="11" ViewCount="23682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like euchre, but I stink at statistics.  Last time we were playing euchre, people would get some crazy hands, and we kept saying, &quot;What are the odds?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I ask you all, what &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; the odds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the odds that you get dealt both Jacks of the same color, plus three other cards all of the same suit in the same color?  (i.e. Jack of Hearts, Jack of Diamonds, plus Ace, Queen and Ten of Diamonds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the odds you get dealt four of the cards asked in Scenario 1, and the fifth card you need is the face-up card in the pile of 4 remaining cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the odds you get dealt all 4 Jacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-20T18:55:01.380" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T17:57:15.660" Title="What are the odds of getting the following hands in euchre?" Tags="|euchre|probability|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1455" CreationDate="2010-11-20T18:25:49.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, the odds for Scenarios 1 and 3 are &lt;em&gt;the same!&lt;/em&gt; The chances for each:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1: 0.0047%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2: 0.0535%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3: 0.0047%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the calculations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The order you consider cards in these calculations doesn't matter, so I'll use the most convenient ordering possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, there are 24 cards in a Euchre deck. To calculate the number of possible Euchre hands of five, you multiply the number of possibilities for each card: &lt;code&gt;24 × 23 × 22 × 21 × 20 = 5,100,480&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we need to figure out how many unique ways you can get Scenario 1. We'll calculate the draw this way: &lt;strong&gt;(I)&lt;/strong&gt; number of Jacks (4), &lt;strong&gt;(II)&lt;/strong&gt; number of Jacks matching the color of the first Jack (1), &lt;strong&gt;(III)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards (A, K, Q, 10, 9) matching the color of the Jack (10; 5 in each suit of that color), &lt;strong&gt;(IV)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards matching the suit of card III (4), &lt;strong&gt;(V)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards matching the suit of cards II and III (3). This calculates as &lt;code&gt;4 × 1 × 10 × 4 × 3 = 480&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the chance of getting Scenario 1 is &lt;code&gt;480 / 5,100,480 = 1 / 10,626&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of ways to get a mismatch by missing a Jack: &lt;strong&gt;(I)&lt;/strong&gt; number of Jacks (4), &lt;strong&gt;(II)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards (A, K, Q, 10, 9) matching the color of the Jack (10; 5 in each suit of that color), &lt;strong&gt;(III)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards matching the suit of card II (4), &lt;strong&gt;(IV)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards matching the suit of cards II and III (3), &lt;strong&gt;(V)&lt;/strong&gt; number of cards that don't complete the set (19). This calculates as &lt;code&gt;4 × 10 × 4 × 3 × 19 = 9,120&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of ways to get a mismatch by missing another card: &lt;strong&gt;(I)&lt;/strong&gt; number of Jacks (4), &lt;strong&gt;(II)&lt;/strong&gt; number of Jacks matching the color of the first Jack (1), &lt;strong&gt;(III)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards (A, K, Q, 10, 9) matching the color of the Jack (10; 5 in each suit of that color), &lt;strong&gt;(IV)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards matching the suit of card III (4), &lt;strong&gt;(V)&lt;/strong&gt; number of cards that don't complete the set (17). This calculates as &lt;code&gt;4 × 10 × 4 × 3 × 17 = 8,160&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the number of ways to end up with four of the five cards in Scenario 1 is &lt;code&gt;(9,120 + 8,160) / 5,100,480 = 6 / 1,771&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the number of cards that would match (3) out of the number of possibilities for the face-up card (19) is &lt;code&gt;3 / 19&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the chance of both occurring (and thus Scenario 2) is &lt;code&gt;(6 / 1,771) × (3 / 19) = 18 / 33,649&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of ways of getting all four Jacks: &lt;strong&gt;(I)&lt;/strong&gt; number of Jacks (4), &lt;strong&gt;(II)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining Jacks (3), &lt;strong&gt;(III)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining Jacks (2), &lt;strong&gt;(IV)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining Jacks (1), &lt;strong&gt;(V)&lt;/strong&gt; number of remaining cards (20). This calculates as &lt;code&gt;4 × 3 × 2 × 1 × 20 = 480&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the chances of getting Scenario 3 is &lt;code&gt;480 / 5,100,480 = 1 / 10,626&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T19:29:47.613" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T19:29:47.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1730" CreationDate="2010-11-20T19:48:27.307" Score="3" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/232/serenissima&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Serenissima&lt;/a&gt; is a game of trade during the renaissance. Players have ships to carry the cargo across the Mediterranean. They try to controll the harbor cities in order to set the price and collect the victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each ship has 5 positions that can be filled with either cargo or sailors. Ships move faster with more sailors and they have better defences but the goal of the game is to move the cargo across the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good strategies for this game, and are the strategies different with different starting areas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T08:10:43.157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T08:10:43.157" Title="Strategy for Serenissima" Tags="|serenissima|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1810" CreationDate="2010-11-21T03:30:49.160" Score="36" ViewCount="10327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bridge is widely considered to be the queen of card games on both sides of the Atlantic.  However, there's one huge difference between the way that (most) Americans and (most) Britons play.  In American Standard, an opening 1NT bid signifies a balanced hand of 15-17 points.  In (British) ACOL, the same bid signifies 12-14 points balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As someone who learned Bridge in the UK, it seems to me obvious that weak no trump is the better system.  A 12-14 point balanced hand comes up WAY more often than a 15-17, so you're getting a lot more use out of the bid.  Yes, you will proceed to game from a weak no trump bid a lot less often than from a strong, but that doesn't seem very important.  The amount of bidding space that you &lt;i&gt;take away&lt;/i&gt; from your opponents by a 1NT bid where they have the balance of the points is a huge bonus, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that British players just prefer playing aggressive, interferential Bridge?  As well as weak no trumps, I also love weak jump overcalls, whose main purpose is to eat up large amounts of the opponents' bidding space, to prevent them easily making games and slams that they have the points for.  Do Americans prefer a &quot;fair&quot; game of Bridge, where you bid on the points you have, not to mess the opponents around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure that the strong no trump would not have remained central to American Bridge for so long if it wasn't pretty robust and well-thought-through, though.  So can any aficionados of it explain to me what's so good about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T16:25:18.177" LastActivityDate="2024-01-28T19:14:04.837" Title="Why is the strong 1NT so prevalent in Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1435" CreationDate="2010-11-21T06:58:51.357" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use the system where player 1 picks an area to keep, player 2 picks an adjacent area, etc. until we have the right number of areas. I'm nearly positive this is how the designer, Friedemann Friese, taught us. If not then we picked it up from the earlier version of the game, the crayon-based Funkenschlag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One tip: when the new (current) edition came out I had a chance to play with the designer explaining the rules. We used the pick-an-adjacent-area rule to pick our staring zones and were using the Germany map. With six players we picked five zones, and the one left out was the center zone, leaving a ring-shaped map. Friedemann immediately exclaimed, &quot;We never playtested it that way!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that's a pretty poor map to play on since you're restricted to expanding through other people's territory much earlier in the game than you normally would. The result was an extra-long game that frankly wasn't as fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the tip: if you play the Germany map with 6 players, do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; eliminate the center territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastEditorUserId="451" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T02:21:16.220" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T02:21:16.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1485" CreationDate="2010-11-21T21:53:42.317" Score="3" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game of The Pillars of the Earth today with 3 other people. I had a question about the King's Court which was not specifically addressed in the rules. If I have already placed a Master Builder there, may I place a second (or even third?) there in order to potentially &quot;force&quot; other players to have to pay taxes? Doing say may result in them losing victory points if they can't pay, so I thought it was an interesting strategic possibility. The owner of the game has only played a couple times, and also only with 2 players, so he hadn't come across the situation before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that often, there are likely better opportunities to take which will result in a greater net gain for yourself than that loss for your opponents, but I was wondering if it was at least possible. The decision we came to was that it wasn't explicitly stated in the rules that you &lt;em&gt;couldn't&lt;/em&gt; so we allowed it as a possibility, though no one took it in the game. Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T23:07:37.647" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T23:07:37.647" Title="Can I put more than one Master Builder in the King's Court?" Tags="|the-pillars-of-the-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1472" CreationDate="2010-11-22T02:35:47.797" Score="15" ViewCount="10916" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional players often offer draws in chess and accept them.  While draws can be very common in professional play, they appear to be very rare in casual play.  Naturally, if you're winning, accepting or offering a draw seems silly, but what if there isn't a clear winner?  When is a good time to offer a draw, and when should I accept one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T03:37:14.120" LastActivityDate="2020-01-28T06:50:30.730" Title="When is it a good time to offer a draw in chess, and when should I accept one?" Tags="|chess|psychology|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1467" CreationDate="2010-11-22T03:56:37.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I genuinely can't think of a better answer than &quot;when you consider there is no possibility of either player winning the game&quot;.  If your opponent doesn't see this, but you can explain to them how a win for anyone has become impossible, so much the better for your ego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either that or if the last bus leaves in five minutes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T03:56:37.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1467" CreationDate="2010-11-22T04:40:25.987" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;In casual play, the main reason to offer a draw is if the game is going on forever and shows no sign of concluding soon. Consider the motivation for the game. Maybe you're playing a game for fun after dinner, but at some point your wife is going to start making loud yawning noises. Maybe you're playing a grudge match with a friend, but both of you are hopeless at rook endings - which is where you've ended up. Maybe you made the mistake of starting a game with someone who takes hours to make any move. I've been in all of these situations! In these cases, achieving the win is secondary to the experience of playing the game. As soon as the experience becomes compromised, or real life starts to intrude, an escape becomes appealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One player may actually have an advantage, but if it's going to be necessary to grind out a difficult endgame to convert that advantage into a point, then it may not be considered worth it by the players to continue. A couple of times I have even conceded casual games that I believed I was winning, simply because I wasn't willing to continue to invest the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason is if the players are amateurish enough that forcing a win is difficult or impossible. I once spent a frustrating afternoon watching two friends with very basic chess playing abilities circle uselessly for several hours, trying to figure out how to achieve a checkmate. It was like watching Brownian motion on a chessboard; essentially random checks with the vague hope of accidental checkmate. In the end, they gave up and declared a draw. This situation is depressingly common among the large group of casual players who possess no knowledge beyond how to move the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final, rather dishonest reason is to protect the ego of your opponent. Too many casual players take losing at chess as a personal failure, or worse, an insult or demonstration of superiority by their opponent. If your opponent is your boss or your grandfather, and they take losing very badly, maybe a draw is a more political decision. In this case, the game is just part of a larger game - the game of maintaining workable relationships in the real world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T04:40:25.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-11-22T12:35:31.777" Score="12" ViewCount="5761" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you had the best players in the world, and they knew everything about Hearts and had decades of experience playing it, then if they were to each play the same identical game, would they all play the game exactly the same? That in my eyes would prove that in Hearts, given a situation and taking into account everything, there is always an optimal way of proceeding, and that would prove that there is a finite limit on how good you can get at Hearts.  Is this in fact the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="459" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T15:56:40.227" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T03:54:00.360" Title="Is there a limit on how good you can get at Hearts?" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1473" CreationDate="2010-11-22T12:43:58.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a better way of thinking about this question is &quot;Is it possible to create a Hearts playing program that would get the best possible result 100% of the time&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Hearts is similar to a simplified version of Bridge.  There are LOTS of studies of Bridge hands, and in most situations there is a clear optimal play.  But there are also times for intuition, reading your opponents, etc.  So I don't think you could ever just generate an algorithm that would make the &quot;optimal&quot; play in every situation and have it do as well or better than a human would 100% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth pointing out that Hearts is a game in which the individual play that earns you the best result might not be the best for your overall results, and part of optimal play is convincing your opponents to play in ways that are optimal to you.   Examples would be encouraging people to &quot;save&quot; hearts to throw at the leader, or to take the Queen of Spades themselves to prevent a potential Shoot the Moon by another player.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/calhamer/invention.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The inventor of Diplomacy has even said that playing lots of Hearts influenced his design of a game that is all about stopping the leader.&lt;/a&gt; This also makes me confident that there is no such thing as an algorithm for optimal play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T03:54:00.360" LastActivityDate="2020-02-05T03:54:00.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1508" CreationDate="2010-11-22T15:17:19.210" Score="6" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I was playing a friend who plays a lot of Hordes yesterday, and he mentioned that when his Warlock casts an Animus as a spell, it still counts as an Animus.  This means that it cannot be cast on a model that already has an animus on it.  Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, Say I am playing Legion.  I have a Carnivean and a Stinger in my battlegroup, and I want to cast the Stinger's animus (to get Bushwack) and the Carnivean's animus (to get the +2 armor).  Can I have both of them on me at the same time?  Or, as an even better example, say I have a Shredder in my battle group as well, and I want his animus up on my Warlock along with my Carnivean's animus - is that legal to do?  When I read the text of the Hordes rules, it did not seem clear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T21:02:48.137" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T13:57:34.573" Title="When a Warlock casts an Animus, is it still an Animus?" Tags="|warmachine|hordes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1473" CreationDate="2010-11-22T16:30:59.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of the thing about Hearts is that you pass cards between the players before the round starts.  This means that you can try to improve your hand and hope your opponents don't mess that up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at least in 4-player games, 1 of every 4 hands has no pass first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, the best hand involves taking every heart and the Queen of Spades, which usually depends a bit on luck based on what the other players play... but often you do need to keep track of which hearts were played when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T16:30:59.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1479" CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:39:10.603" Score="15" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/boardgameswithscott/~3/9Yf-EB6HiZc/&quot;&gt;Board Games with Scott&lt;/a&gt; episode [Breaking Up the Monopoly] has brought up an interesting question:  When someone that you know asks to play Monopoly with you, what game do you suggest playing with them?  I assume that you don't end up playing Monopoly with them.  If so, that's cool, just tell me why you do that instead (alternative rules, versions, etc.).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to limit your answer to one game, and explain the mechanic or &quot;hook&quot; that you use to entice them away from the dreaded Boardwalk, Park Place, and Free Parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2010-11-22T18:51:04.497" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T18:02:02.313" Title="Monopoly Alternatives" Tags="|recommendations|monopoly|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-08-21T06:20:39.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-22T18:50:52.097" Score="18" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For adults, I would suggest Settlers of Catan, since it's a much better game to me and a lot more fun to play.  If your willing to play a full game of Monopoly, then Catan is a prefect fit since it's actually shorter.  There's also a much more nuanced trade mechanic, and a board to stack our your share of.  I see it as a great chance to introduce them to Euro games if they haven't played one before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For young kids, if they want to play Monopoly, I wouldn't dare be a spoil sport and suggest something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T18:50:52.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2010-11-22T20:00:05.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terrace_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Terrace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the wikipedia write-up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terrace is an award-winning strategy game played by two, three, or four players on a multi-leveled 8×8 (or, more recently, 6×6) board. It is most widely known for also being a prop in the American television series &lt;em&gt;Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T20:00:05.867" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-22T20:42:33.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40398/monopoly-deal-card-game&quot;&gt;&lt;h2&gt;Monopoly Deal&lt;/h2&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;A card game based on the board game, everyone wins here -- they get to play something in the spirit of Monopoly, and you don't have to deal with a long, drawn-out game of landing in Jail and haggling for properties, or worse, reaching a stalemate where no one will budge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card game is fun, very inexpensive to purchase, and plays quickly.  It works better with multiple players, but is just as fine playing with two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T00:38:28.217" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T00:38:28.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-22T21:06:12.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pandemic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cooperative nature, quick play, and ease of play (especially without the expansion) makes it an instant shoo-in for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T21:06:12.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1466" CreationDate="2010-11-22T21:46:15.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After taking another pass through the rules, I see no reason this would be forbidden.  That being said, I see no case where this would be a good play.  You gain nothing by placing a second builder here, and at best you are causing one player to pay taxes.  I suppose in the very narrow situation where 1) this is the last space (and therefore you know which player will have to pay), 2) you know the player who will have to pay will not be able to afford it and therefore lose victory points, 3) that player is in first place, and 4) you are in second place that this play &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be worthwhile.  However, even in this case it seems likely that the player targeted could make up the one or two points they would lose (two to five divided by two, rounded down) with the action they choose instead.  I think it is always going to be preferable to take another action instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="444" LastActivityDate="2010-11-22T21:46:15.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1032" CreationDate="2010-11-22T22:23:02.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting variations you listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A house rule I sometimes play is paratroopers. A bomber can load up an infantry and drop it in a friendly or hostile territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axisandallies.org has a great discussion on Axis and Allies from the original to the 1940 World Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to their forums. Apparently I dont have enough rep to post more than one link but you will be able to navigate your way around Im sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link to their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?board=36.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;variations section&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And another link to their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?board=41.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;house rules section&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will be hard to find more hardcore fans so it would be worth while to poke around there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="449" LastEditorUserId="449" LastEditDate="2010-11-25T00:34:28.637" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T00:34:28.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-23T03:32:54.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/prod/vegasshowdown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vegas Showdown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the limited resources and bidding to get different rooms.  It can get pretty competitive, depending on the group, but I enjoy the mechanics and think of it as Monopoly only a little more fun and with a definite endgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T03:32:54.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-23T04:20:13.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamefaqs.com/ps/562893-top-shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top Shop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sue me, it's &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt; a videogame (for the original Playstation), but it's basically monopoly set in a mall, translated to Japanese and then back into English. It's a heck of a lot of fun, and plays pretty much just like a boardgame. Up to six can play at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you land on an empty square you can open a store. If you land on an opponent's store you have to buy at least one item, but can buy two. If there are no items in a store you've landed on you can take over it. If you land on your own store you can restock ANY one store you own. There are random events, and points you get that will let you do various game changing events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T04:20:13.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-23T08:05:26.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11147/easy-money&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easy Money / Money Money&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Faster Pace&lt;/strong&gt; - Everyone plays the same pawn. Everything that happens concerns all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shorter Play&lt;/strong&gt; - No stalemates. The game ends when the bank runs out of money, which takes a more or less predictable amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moaaar Money&lt;/strong&gt; - In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/136307/easy-money&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;middle of the board&lt;/a&gt; are stacks of bundles worth one million, half a million, 200k and 100k a piece!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, there is no buying or building properties, auctions or event cards. Basically it trades some of the complexity and duration for fun and more action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T08:05:26.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-23T15:36:46.333" Score="17" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Monopoly by the rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest playing Monopoly with no house rules to keep the game competitive and short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No bonus given for landing on Free Parking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No restriction on when properties can be bought, e.g. not until one trip around the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No building houses or hotels if the bank has none to sell. They're meant to be a limited resource.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auction properties. If someone doesn't want to buy a property, then it will be auctioned to the highest bidder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing by the actual rules makes Monopoly a much shorter and more enjoyable game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T15:36:46.333" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:47:56.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, it has to be Power Grid. It has many of the attributes of Monopoly, such as bartering of which power station to buy and is economically driven, plus the rules are pretty simple. Furthermore, it is such a great game, it is a brilliant introduction to the world of strategic board games, and I have known a few players hooked in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T16:47:56.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-11-23T16:53:02.677" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5/acquire&quot;&gt;Acquire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am surprised no one has mentioned this classic (back in print as of 2008) which is quite thematically similar (paper money, real estate).  Except, it is shorter, more strategic, and has no dice rolling (but still some randomness from tile drawing).  It is also pretty easy to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="183" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T16:53:02.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1499" CreationDate="2010-11-23T20:25:09.390" Score="31" ViewCount="143281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Blokus enough times to get a feel for the game and one thing that always bugs me is how to play the first few moves.  There seem to be a couple of competing aims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get rid of big, awkwardly shaped pieces;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create plenty of corners to leave lots of future moves open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is the case, which pieces are the 'most awkward', and does playing these achieve the goal of creating lots of corners?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how many moves can you have before you have to start worrying about what other players are doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help with answering this question here's a link to a picture showing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/112331/blokus&quot;&gt;Blokus naming convention&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T10:08:42.590" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T10:08:42.590" Title="What is a good opening in Blokus?" Tags="|openings|blokus|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2010-11-23T21:02:17.423" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ever since I learned about &quot;the Barasona opening&quot;, I've had a hard time not starting all my Blokus games with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that your first four pieces leave no possibility for an opponent to move &quot;through&quot; your corner, without the use of his one-piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pieces you use are F, X, W, and then N or Y.  You can see a picture of the Barasona in action here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/112251/blokus&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/112251/blokus&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the problem with the Barasona is that, while it provides a disincentive for other players to move towards your unprofitable corner, the moment the other players realize this they will probably all start using the Barasona themselves, and you're back to square one.  Blokus is an arms race!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2010-11-23T21:13:19.610" LastActivityDate="2010-11-23T21:13:19.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2010-11-24T00:20:23.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always try to use the largest farthest reaching pieces at the beginning to reach the center, and then go to stake out space.  If everyone is doing a similar thing, I don't worry about them until we meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T00:20:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1511" CreationDate="2010-11-24T03:38:18.103" Score="30" ViewCount="13463" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citadels_%28card_game%29&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt;, most versions that are currently available for sale also include the Dark City expansion.  Since those extra characters are available, what arrangement of characters do you find the most balanced and competitive?&#xA;Please clarify your response by indicating why you've chosen to add or remove these particular characters to balance gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T08:52:53.897" LastActivityDate="2022-03-12T09:13:53.890" Title="What is the most balanced/competitive character set in Citadels?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2010-11-24T04:09:25.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred opening is V W Z or V Z W. This gets you to the center of the board as quickly as possible, giving you potential access to the entire board. Any opening that concentrates on defense in the early game will be forfeiting access to at least 1/4 of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weakness of this opening is a very low ratio of corners to dead squares in your home corner, leaving you vulnerable to being walled in during the midgame if you have concentrated on the far side of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T04:09:25.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2010-11-24T07:41:23.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the - admittedly few - games of blokus I've played so far I found it to be easier in the long term to be confrontational: i.e seeking to wall in at least one opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a consequence to that strategy I try to get to the middle as fast as possible and then head towards one of my neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T07:41:23.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1506" CreationDate="2010-11-24T12:26:34.860" Score="13" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've run into what I believe might be an edge case for the rules of the Traders and Barbarians expansion to The Settlers of Catan. I'm hoping someone might be able to clarify (preferably with reference to rules I might have missed), or at least give me some solid opinions!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we have two players, and player 1 has 15 gold while player 2 has 14 gold. So, at the start of this scenario, player 1 has the 'richest settler' card. Let's also assume that both players are one victory point from winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of his turn, player 1 needs to move his caravan in such a way that he will traverse player 2's roads and thereby give player 2 some gold. This means that player 2 will - temporarily - become the richest settler. At the end of the turn, though, player 1 will collect 5 gold from delivering goods, which would give him back the richest settler card. He will also get a victory point for delivering goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is - at what point is the richest settler evaluated?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T18:12:01.220" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T18:12:01.220" Title="When is the Richest Settler evaluated?" Tags="|catan|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1505" CreationDate="2010-11-24T12:44:24.760" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latest core &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;(link to PDF)&lt;/sup&gt; rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have 10 or more victory points during your turn the game ends and you are the  winner! If you reach 10 points when it is not your turn, the game continues until any player (including you) has 10 points on his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?TaB_Rules_051908.pdf&quot;&gt;Traders and Barbarians&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;(link to PDF)&lt;/sup&gt; scenarios state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The normal rules for The Settlers of Catan apply. The changes are described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, we can infer that the rules for determining the winner apply here too, and while the amount of victory points required may change, when the winner is calculated is unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though Player 2 will have more victory points, it is NOT their turn, so Player 1 will win as soon as he/she has the necessary points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T12:44:24.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1516" CreationDate="2010-11-24T13:25:17.943" Score="1" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;In brass, there are only a small number of shipyards available, but it seems in the canal phase this is reduced further. There is a specific rule that says a shipyard cannot be built at the places connected via a rail link, but i don't understand why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i have a city card, meaning i can build within that city, what is stopping me build a level 1 shipyard? It has no materials needed to be shipped, so why is this place any different to any other city on the map? Am i missing a specific rule somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been a rule that initially confused out group, until we played online and realised the correct usage (which the rules do backup). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My confusion is that the specific rule says something like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hence the shipyard in the canal phase&#xA;  cannot be built at this location&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And i don't understand the rational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T13:54:09.863" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T21:15:55.740" Title="Building a shipyard during canal phase" Tags="|brass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1475" CreationDate="2010-11-24T13:57:34.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A model can have only one friendly animus in play on it at time. If another friendly animus is cast on a model, th eolder friendly animus expires and is replaced by the new one when the affected model is hit by the animus. This applies to animi used by warbeasts as well as those cast as spell. &#xA;cit from the quickstart rules pag 4 right column ANIMI block. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question your friend is right :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T13:57:34.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1510" CreationDate="2010-11-24T16:18:05.160" Score="10" ViewCount="1659" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crisis card 'Thirty-Three' has the following special rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Relentless Pursuit:&lt;/em&gt; Keep this card in play until a civilian ship or basestar is destroyed. If this card is in play when the fleet jumps, shuffle it back into the Crisis deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does this mean? My gaming group has come up with 3 possible interpretations so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the card is kept in play, &lt;em&gt;and has no effect, other than to be shuffled back into the deck afterwards&lt;/em&gt; -- in other words, the special rule is simply that &quot;there's a chance it may reappear later in the game&quot;, but that just seems a really weak rule, partly because the odds of it ever reappearing within the same game are pretty low, and partly because it's just not a very strong attack (place one basestar, no raiders and no heavy raiders)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the card is kept in play, &lt;em&gt;and all instructions on the card are repeated every turn&lt;/em&gt;. This seems to match the actual episode which the card is named after (the fleet is attacked every 33 minutes until they lose a civilian ship), but means &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of ships are put on the board every turn (two vipers, 4 civilians and a basestar), and that raiders are activated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the card is kept in play, and the &lt;em&gt;raider activation is repeated every turn&lt;/em&gt;. This seems a bit milder than the previous interpretation, in that new ships aren't put on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is there an official explanation somewhere? Or just some kind of consensus on which interpretation &lt;em&gt;makes sense&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T21:28:41.520" Title="Effect of &quot;keep in play&quot; on &quot;Thirty-Three&quot; crisis card?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2010-11-24T17:09:48.390" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've always played it as option #1, and I've only ever seen it played as option #1.  I agree its 'weaker' than the effect in the show, but its the only interpretation that is supported by hard-and-fast rules-as-written logic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T17:09:48.390" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2010-11-24T18:09:35.320" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found the default characters are the most balanced set of characters.  While I haven't played with all of the extra characters, some of them significantly change how the game plays.  Bruno Faidutti, the creator of Citadels, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faidutti.com/index.php?Module=mesjeux&amp;amp;id=328&amp;amp;fichier=106&quot;&gt;says he prefers the default characters on the game's Rules FAQ on his website&lt;/a&gt;.  Quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; What is your favorite character mix? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;The 8 basic characters, plus the Queen or the Artist when playing with 6 or 7 players.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; What's the best character mix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Many players prefer the Witch over the Assassin, but I disagree. The Assassin is simpler and naughtier. I prefer the original set, sometimes with adding the Queen, and sometimes with replacing the Merchant with the Alchemist.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the extra characters I have played with, I have a few impressions I can share with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tax Collector:&lt;/strong&gt;  I found without the threat of the thief, people started hoarding money.  This reduces some of the tension in the game.  Since players can't get robbed, they can save to build up to build the most expensive district.  Players were also careful to not have money to pay the tax collector after building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Emperor:&lt;/strong&gt; Since you can no longer take the crown for yourself, most people gave the crown to the player to their right.  This gave them a better choice of cards in the next character draft, while benefiting the player to the right.  The Emperor does make it fairer though how the crown is distributed, but it's also the only character ability the benefits someone else in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alchemist:&lt;/strong&gt; The ability to get all your gold back you spend is great, but the Alchemist replaces the Merchant.  Since the Merchant can tax green properties and the Alchemist can't, this makes green districts the most worthless ones in the deck.  They can't be taxed and provide no special benefit.  Green also happens to be the most common color in the district deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally while i haven't played with it, the Diplomat seems to be one of the most powerful characters in the game.  It will definitely change the dynamic of the game and make it harder to hold onto powerful purple districts.  That doesn't mean that any of these characters are bad, and the opportunity to try them out was a bad inclusion in the game.  I just think the default set of characters is the most balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T18:09:35.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1554" CreationDate="2010-11-24T19:02:15.473" Score="10" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attack with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vector%20Asp&quot;&gt;Vector Asp&lt;/a&gt; and use his activated ability to give him infect until the end of the turn. It's blocked by a 2/2 creature and goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpse%20Cur&quot;&gt;Corpse Cur&lt;/a&gt; next, can I return Vector Asp to my hand from the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand, the Vector Asp did have infect until the end of the turn. On the other, he may have lost that by going to the graveyard. Which is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T19:44:47.503" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T19:44:47.503" Title="Can I use a Corpse Cur to get a Vector Asp back from the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1512" CreationDate="2010-11-24T19:04:53.663" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corpse Cur says &quot;return target creature card with infect.&quot; Although Vector Asp had infect when it went to the graveyard, the creature &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt; Vector Asp in the 'yard doesn't have it. Not a valid target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T19:04:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2010-11-24T19:49:28.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently get all my pieces down (4 of my last 5 games I think) by playing the I along the side of the board, then work Barasona style to the middle (though I'd not heard that term 'til reading this thread)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="464" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T19:49:28.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1507" CreationDate="2010-11-24T21:00:41.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[a level 1 shipyard] has no materials needed to be shipped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you've got that part wrong: A shipyard &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; require coal (look at the brown square at the bottom-right corner of the tile), so a city must be connected to a source of coal through canals or rails before you can build a shipyard there.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/307212/brass&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/307212/brass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barrow-in-Furness and Birkenhead may only have rail links (notice that there's no blue line) to the rest of the map, from where coal may come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore during the canal phase, the only possible shipyard location is Liverpool as you can build a canal link to Wiggan or other potential coal sources; but there is no such potential canal link out of Barrow-in-Furness or Birkenhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastEditorUserId="46" LastEditDate="2010-11-24T21:15:55.740" LastActivityDate="2010-11-24T21:15:55.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-11-25T09:37:45.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not personally pulled this off but I have seen this in action - in which, you can use a Remodel card to remodel a remodel card so that you can increase your costs to gain a card of a higher value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very slow process but it can come in pretty handy when there are limited avenues of income within a very thin deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="466" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T09:37:45.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1569" CreationDate="2010-11-25T14:56:28.130" Score="33" ViewCount="8209" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt; at home. When browsing for some new games I stumbled over &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot;&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/a&gt; made by the same designer. I thought it could be interesting to have another cooperative game but when I read about the gameplay I got the sneaking suspicion that it would feel too much like Pandemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I read the selection of flooding tiles works exactly like the infection deck in Pandemic and obtaining the treasures exactly like finding the cures. So my question is: Do these two games &lt;strong&gt;feel different enough&lt;/strong&gt; to warrant buying both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-12-20T06:29:11.407" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T06:29:11.407" Title="Pandemic and Forbidden Island - How similar are they?" Tags="|pandemic|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2010-11-25T19:01:56.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For CITIES AND KNIGHTS, things change: 2-1 Wheat and 2-1 Brick become very valuable, as the other resources produce only one resource even with a city, whereas cities on wheat or brick produce two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="JAB" LastActivityDate="2010-11-25T19:01:56.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2010-11-25T19:45:12.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first option is the correct ruling. I think it was done mostly for flavor. However while it may not be the nastiest card in the deck, Thirty-three can be nasty if Galactica is currently under attack because it scatters so many civilian ships around and immediately activates the Raiders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T18:08:14.740" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T18:08:14.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2010-11-25T21:47:03.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer the standard set with the Diplomat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Diplomat improves the game in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's less luck. If I happen to get a great purple building, I can't expect to run away with the game because the Diplomat may take it from me. Also, 1-cost buildings are no longer complete garbage.&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Warlord's ability is worthless in a large game. Paying to harm an opponent just hands the game to everyone else.&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the Navigator, but you should then switch the Magician for the Wizard --- drawing 4 district cards makes you so tasty a Magician target that you de facto don't have the option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than those changes, I find it best to stick with the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, in my group the Witch is completely broken. Player 1 almost always chooses the Witch and is very likely to get the role she wants &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; avoid the Thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T19:41:40.070" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T19:41:40.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1598" CreationDate="2010-11-26T06:30:37.230" Score="12" ViewCount="5042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a large collection of boxes piling up for Carcassonne, both the little ones that fit in the palm or your hand (like River and The Count) and the medium size ones like (like Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals and The Princess and the Dragon)--currently three of each size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an elegant way to store the pieces all in the main box for easier storage and transportation?  The little boxes fit just as they are, but the bigger ones are little trickier. It seems there should be a good way to make use of all these cardboard inserts, but their shapes are all pretty generic and they waste a lot of space. Is there a good way to cut then up and reuse them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Space-wise, all the pieces from the expansions fit easily into the main box, but they are really loose. I also want to keep the tiles from each expansion grouped together and easy to pull out one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:18:34.910" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T22:37:35.233" Title="Condensing Carcassonne &amp; expansions into a single box" Tags="|carcassonne|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-11-26T06:52:11.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34119/tales-of-the-arabian-nights&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tales Of The Arabian Nights&lt;/a&gt; quite successfully with a six player group; because you have lots of things to be looking up at any given time, the two books are passed around the table, with player 1 having their turn while player 3 reads the scenario and player 5 looks up the numbers.  Because you're continually switching roles, you don't have to wait longer than a single player's turn with nothing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="477" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T06:52:11.617" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-26T06:52:11.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2010-11-26T09:51:25.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I use a very targeted set of cards, for example, having lots of power zero cards, in a game where the player who loves playing Cthulu gets on everybody's nerves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can build sets of cards geared for more income, remove all the non-group cards, and anything that comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I cannot be bothered. Sometimes I'll remove some cards that just seem to water down the deck, but other than that, I really do use a mechanical shuffler like LittleBobbyTables says, and then I just take the top 50-100 cards off the top, and we use those. The games end up being random enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T09:51:25.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1538" CreationDate="2010-11-26T09:54:39.530" Score="13" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just encountered this yesterday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=possession&quot;&gt;Possession&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, it's player B turn (with player A deciding), and there's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=masquerade&quot;&gt;Masquerade&lt;/a&gt; in the hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A decides to play the Masquerade,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A chooses the card to swap in both hands!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Swapping a province for a curse is so delightful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But also it seems too much powerful. Am I doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note that it does not work with 3 players or more, because of the rotation of the swapped cards between the 3 players.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T03:47:44.213" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T05:24:59.470" Title="Possession and Masquerade - are these too powerful in 2 player games?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1523" CreationDate="2010-11-26T10:01:47.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might sound a little silly, but why not just put them into medium or small zip-lock bags? Even if all the bags get tossed around inside the box, they'll be easy to paw through and find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then again, I just tossed everything I had into the cloth bag that came with the Builders &amp;amp; Trader expansion, and put each set of meepls into their own ziplock bag, and called it a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know, you can construct very sturdy, custom boxes from chipboard or foam-core board. It's lots of fun, and lets you get &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the type of box you always wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T10:01:47.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1600" CreationDate="2010-11-26T11:50:33.173" Score="12" ViewCount="4295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got several games that have all the pieces rattling around in the box, each set of pieces stored in its own Ziplock bag. But I'd really rather have my own custom inserts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into making vacum-formed inserts out of plastic, but construction of such a machine was too much work, and in my area there are no companies willing to make a  &quot;run&quot; of a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; formed piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I thought of getting foam and cutting it to shape around all the bits, but I haven't found a good guide about how to measure the cuts, and what types of foam are better for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice? I'm willing to accept &quot;You're wrong! You have to be doing &lt;em&gt;[something else]&lt;/em&gt; instead!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T04:18:52.017" Title="How does one make foam inserts for games?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1523" CreationDate="2010-11-26T15:21:42.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built two custom boxes for Carcassonne tiles using some check boxes from the bank and some spare cardboard.  I glued dividers into the boxes and labeled each section with the expansion title and number of tiles.  It's a little bit of work, but you get custom boxes that are sized perfectly for the tiles you have.  I then put the meeples and scoring tiles into their own zip-lock bags.  The tiles, meeples, scoring track, and rules all fit nicely within a small cloth bag.  It's much more compact and easier to transport than the massive Big Box 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2010-11-27T15:30:57.487" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T15:30:57.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1526" CreationDate="2010-11-26T17:20:37.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only person doing something wrong is the one who buys a Masquerade into their deck while Possession is on the table!  You can also do a similar thing with Ambassador.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T17:20:37.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-11-26T18:00:36.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of companies I can think of off the top of my head, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.saboldesigns.net/faq.html#90644&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sabol Designs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://battlefoam.com/catalog.php?category=64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battle Foam&lt;/a&gt; who have foam trays where you can pluck out squares to fit the shape of models you need.  Depending on how small the game pieces are, though, the squares may still be too big for you, and they're not exactly cheap either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make your own, I &lt;em&gt;believe&lt;/em&gt; that the trays mentioned above are made from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.closedcellfoams.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;polyethelyne sheets&lt;/a&gt;, but someone please correct me if I'm wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the models are fragile or expensive (Space Hulk comes to mind), I would stick with sandwich bags, it's just easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2010-11-26T18:06:12.637" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T18:06:12.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1509" CreationDate="2010-11-26T21:28:41.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that option #1 is the correct rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played with a house rule that states you shuffle thirty-three into the top 3 cards of the crisis deck. This makes things quite a bit more difficult because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The attacks are in general much worse than the other crisis cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thirty-three is much harder if there are ships to be activated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2010-11-26T21:28:41.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1542" CreationDate="2010-11-27T06:03:07.127" Score="9" ViewCount="1482" Body="&lt;p&gt;With The Princess and the Dragon expansion for Carcassonne, can I place a tile to complete one of my features, and then move the fairy in to it for the bonus 3 points, or are you supposed to score the city, road, or cloister before placing the fairy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2010-11-27T15:31:49.293" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T03:29:18.433" Title="Do you place the fairy before or after scoring a completed road/city/cloister?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1526" CreationDate="2010-11-27T06:06:38.977" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possession and Masquerade are just known to be wacky when used together.  That's just what happens when you have 100+ cards at this point.  Donald X. Vaccarino &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/4910970#4910970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;said&lt;/a&gt; &quot;Possession is a case where Masquerade ends up being a weird exception&quot;, but it's basically not worth special rules or changing the card for this one interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;keithjgrant is also right that if Possession is out, you'd better not buy Masquerade. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T15:27:20.077" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T15:27:20.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1523" CreationDate="2010-11-27T06:53:34.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Rubber bands, bags and boxes.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put all the tiles from the base game, minus the starting tile, in the cloth bag from Traders &amp; Builders, and the tiles from each major expansion (T &amp; B; Inns &amp; Cathedrals; Bridges, Castles &amp; Bazaars) in piles wrapped with a rubber band each. All my followers, builders and the like are in one ziplock bag, all my bridges in another, and my castles, along with resource chits, in a third. I keep the tiles from the mini-expansions I own in the boxes in which they came. All this fits nicely in my box from the base game since I removed the folded cardboard from the inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T06:53:34.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2010-11-27T07:28:20.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.exodusbooks.com/Samples/Games/21108rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a player places no follower on his turn, he may, instead, place the fairy on any tile where he has one of his followers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that fairy placement takes the place of follower placement, and happens at the same time. Since follower placement happens before scoring, you place the fairy before scoring the completed feature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T07:28:20.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="114" CreationDate="2010-11-27T10:55:43.640" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience of playing games, it doesn't really matter that much, as long as you are &lt;strong&gt;consistent&lt;/strong&gt;. That is the key for me, people will not feel aggrieved if you toe a hard line if it's the same for all, and the same is true if you are highly forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally though, I try to play as close to the rules as possible, as it teaches people to play to the rules, and makes them better players. If they are forgetting to take privileges, how closely are they really monitoring their strategy? While it is not nice to lose a game because you forget to take your bonus, it rarely affects a game that much because the better players tend not to make those basic mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="483" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-09T02:19:43.380" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T02:19:43.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1547" CreationDate="2010-11-27T11:34:04.623" Score="9" ViewCount="3256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often play (and often win) the card-game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1465/wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizard&lt;/a&gt; with 3 players. I call somewhat aggressively and it works out well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I played with more players, and my strategy didn't work as well in those circumstances. Especially with six players (the maximum), I don't have much success. How should I adjust my strategy for more players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T00:01:56.100" LastActivityDate="2017-07-26T03:08:13.083" Title="How should my strategy change for six players?" Tags="|wizard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1544" CreationDate="2010-11-27T23:22:07.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Call easy, Play aggressively&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only played it up to 5 players but in my experience the game works best if you don't go overboard with you calls. I prefer to call one or even two tricks less than I tought if someone else calls big numbers. But then I try to persue those tricks aggressively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because even if the calls add up nicely people generally don't manage to follow through. So waiting towards the end to get you tricks is risky as the chances that someone messes up increases with the number of players. Fighting for you tricks to soon is risky too because that's an easy way to waste good cards to wizards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-11-27T23:22:07.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1553" CreationDate="2010-11-28T01:29:19.197" Score="5" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text on Anastasia &quot;Dee&quot; Dualla's once per game says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per game, before making a Skill check, look at the top 3 cards of any Skill deck (even outside your Skill set), and add all of them to either the Skill check or your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is that ability meant to be played in timing?  Before Investigative Committee?  Before Reckless?  Before any players play any cards?  Before Dee plays any cards?  When is it too late to trigger her power in a given skill check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T02:02:20.163" Title="Anastasia &quot;Dee&quot; Dualla Once-Per-Game Ability Timing" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1552" CreationDate="2010-11-28T17:06:47.993" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the English card text ready but the German one translates roughly like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move an opponents person or hut (with or without sacrifice token) up to 3 hexes from it's current location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I move an opponents person which carries a sacrifice token with this card or can I only move the bare person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the parentheses I'd say that the part about sacrifice tokens moved along only applies to the huts...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T22:42:21.450" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T22:42:21.450" Title="Expulsion Card ruling in Mesopotamia" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1551" CreationDate="2010-11-28T17:34:06.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that text, I would rule that you could move &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; a person or a hut, and the ruling about sacrifice tokens applies to &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they had only intended the hut to have the sacrifice token clause, they should have written it as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move an opponent's hut (with or without sacrifice token), or move a person, up to 3 hexes from its current location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-12T12:22:42.307" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T12:22:42.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1548" CreationDate="2010-11-28T18:34:05.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official sequence of events for resolving a Skill Check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read Card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Two Cards from Destiny Deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Skills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle and Divide Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Strength&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine Result&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've generally interpreted the &quot;before making a skill check&quot; phrase to mean the time between steps 1 and 3 (when the Destiny Deck cards come out usually isn't important). So things like Investigative Committee, Reckless and Dee's ability should ideally be used during this time. However, things sometimes happen a little fast and people start throwing in cards before someone has a chance to announce an action. We're usually pretty lenient and let people do things after step 3 starts if it doesn't seem like they're gaming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any specific sequence between Investigative Committee, Reckless, Dee's ability, and the like. I think they could happen in any order. Generally we play it kind of loose and the first person to act goes first; normally it doesn't matter. Ideally, everyone that has something to do should indicate that they do. According to the rules, it's up to the currently player to decide the order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T02:02:20.163" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T02:02:20.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1512" CreationDate="2010-11-28T20:56:22.083" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the answer in the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7&lt;/strong&gt;. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once the Vector Asp goes to my graveyard, it has no memory of the infect I gave it with its activated ability. So, I can't use the Corpse Cur to get it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="1760" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T21:30:11.150" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T21:30:11.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1556" CreationDate="2010-11-28T21:44:47.003" Score="15" ViewCount="8029" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dragon Master: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, you may conquer a Region&#xA;  using a single Race token, regardless of the&#xA;  number of enemy tokens defending it. Once&#xA;  conquered, place your Dragon there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this allow you to conquer any region on the map, even if it's not adjacent to a region you already control? In a game I played last night, it was ruled that it could do this. However I don't agree with that ruling since it doesn't explicitly grant that exception. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T00:18:40.990" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T00:18:40.990" Title="Does Small World's Dragon Master allow conquering non-adjacent regions?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1555" CreationDate="2010-11-28T22:42:25.790" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dragon does not fly or give the race flying.  (Therefore you can normally&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; only conquer adjacent areas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dragon does not do the conquering, only allow you to conquer an area with a single race token.  You place the Dragon after you conquer the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;normally used as I don't have all the expansions and for all I know there is an edge case out there!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-11-28T22:42:25.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1605" CreationDate="2010-11-29T03:38:55.313" Score="4" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player passes, they must discard cards down to their Card Limit if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only when a player passes will they have to discard down to their Card Limit, which is determined by their Politics score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the following scenario:&#xA;Black is at their card limit. During an Action Phase, Black passes. Later that same Action Phase another player completes a Shipping Track which awards a Governor card to Black. Black now has too many cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does Black discard? Immediately, at end of turn, or not until they pass in the next Action Phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above rule quotes pretty clearly indicate that Black would not need to discard until they pass in the next Action Phase. But, what if there isn't another Action Phase? For example, what if the phase in question is the last Action Phase of the game? Does this mean a player could score more cards than their card limit allows? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the following quote seems to imply that the card limit is lifted only during the Action Phase (because it's not mentioned anywhere else):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When drawing cards during the Action Phase there is no restriction on how many cards a player may hold...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could indicate that the card limit is enforced continuously after a player passes (because they are no longer able to draw cards), but it's not worded very well because what about the rest of the Action Phase when not drawing cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2022-11-18T03:58:45.767" LastActivityDate="2022-11-18T03:58:45.767" Title="When does discard happen if player goes over limit after passing?" Tags="|endeavor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-11-29T07:29:17.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/943/dutch-blitz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dutch Blitz&lt;/a&gt;, also known as &quot;Ligretto&quot; and a bunch of other names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It plays 2-12 players very fast, since all play is simultaneous. I've heard it called &quot;speed solitaire&quot;, and that's a pretty apt description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the player are trying to clear away their piles into a common area, so you have a lot of high-speed interaction, but of very brief length. Mostly in the nature of &quot;hey, I was gonna do that!&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rounds take between 2-10 minutes, and there's a downtime of about 1-2 minutes while the scores are tallied. Apart from that, all the players are playing all of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to the game is its speed. There's a lot to keep track of, and many beginners will get confused. It the job of the experienced player to get them to stay calm and focus on the basics, until they get familiar enough to &quot;see everything&quot;. That only takes 1-2 rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T07:29:17.650" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-11-29T07:29:17.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2010-11-29T08:30:31.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Plastic Battery Cases&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For games with lots of little cardboard counters, like Arkham Horror, I bought a bunch of AAA- and AA-battery cases from e-bay. They ship world-wide for about 1-2 USD, and can easily store a lot of counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite thing about them is that they also act as trays, so players can take their components for themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helped a lot with reducing setup time for Arkham Horror. Instead of one person (me) handing out lots of tiny tokens, I just toss the cases on the table and tell everyone to take what they need, while I'm doing the rest of the setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T08:30:31.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1558" CreationDate="2010-11-29T09:18:48.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules do not specifically deal with this scenario, but the rules state as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player has a Card Limit, which is determined by their Politics score. A player’s&#xA;  Card Limit determines how many Asset Cards the player is permitted to keep &lt;strong&gt;after&#xA;  passing&lt;/strong&gt;. The absolute maximum will be 5 cards, one card per normal card slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have highlighted the important phrase here. So, once you have passed, you must discard down to your Card Limit. If your Card Limit changes as a result (due to losing a politic score etc), then you must keep discarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are awarded a card &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you have discarded, then you keep them. After passing, your round is effectively over, so you are starting the next round at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that this feels a little odd, in fact we always played that when we checked our status tracks we normally discard our cards at that point. However, re-reviewing the rules seems to be clear on when the discard happens, and therefore the side effects as you have stated are implied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/46651/endeavor-rules-english-pdf?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T09:18:48.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1565" CreationDate="2010-11-29T12:51:02.047" Score="13" ViewCount="1316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question about seafarers. Ports are added onto the map by placing them alongside the edge of a hex. Once a port is there is it right to consider that edge as Coastal or not? i.e. Can a ship be built along that edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T13:33:10.317" Title="Seafarers - Ships over Ports?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1564" CreationDate="2010-11-29T13:33:10.317" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A port is coastal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ship can be build if a settlement or city is present (or as a continuation of other ships).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T13:33:10.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-11-29T17:30:35.737" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I have both and definitely notice the similarities, I don't regret the purchase.  Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  Forbidden Island is easier to teach.  Not that I think Pandemic is very complicated, but I've been able to teach Forbidden Island to my 8 year old where Pandemic was a bit too much.   Also, the fewer number of bits (cubes and such) has made the game less intimidating to spouses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Forbidden island is easier to vary.  Beyond raising the &quot;damage coefficient&quot; (number of infections in Pandemic, beginning water level in Forbidden Island), you can alter the tile layout to form a new challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)  Forbidden Island plays quicker.  Faster setup, faster game play, faster tear down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, my usual gaming group prefers Pandemic with expansions to Forbidden Island because they feel it is a deeper experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to sum up:  I would only get Forbidden Island if difficulty, approachability, or time is keeping Pandemic from hitting the table more.  Otherwise, I'd go for another coop game such as Ghost Stories or Castle RavenCroft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T17:30:35.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1674" CreationDate="2010-11-29T17:43:35.793" Score="5" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Starfarers of Catan&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1897/starfarers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;|&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starfarers_of_Catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; once and loved it. Usually, I only have one other to play board games with. I'd like to know how similar Starship Catan&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2338/starship-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;|&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starship_Catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; is so I can decide whether it's worth the purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T00:05:18.803" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T00:05:18.803" Title="Is Starship Catan similar enough to be considered a two-player adaptation of Starfarers of Catan?" Tags="|starfarers-of-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1519" CreationDate="2010-11-29T18:20:49.623" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Forbidden Island is very similar to Pandemic in gameplay, it is worth purchasing both games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Island is definitely easier to teach to new players and has an overall shorter play time.  It is also worth noting that this game is dirt cheap, and has been seen as low as $10 on sale.  Games are only as fun as the people you have to play them with, so starting with Forbidden Island is well worth the cost.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one key gameplay difference in that after the 4 treasures have been found, players still have to meet up at the helicopter and escape the island.  This makes the end game strategy slightly different than Pandemic's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disagree with another answer here that claims Forbidden Island is more varied due to tile layout.  The initial seeding of disease tiles in Pandemic gives that same variety on a fixed physical board.  Still, it is worth owning both games.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T18:20:49.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1583" CreationDate="2010-11-29T21:06:55.303" Score="20" ViewCount="6516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohnanza&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;|&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=36&quot;&gt;Publisher&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; a few times, and it seems that most players will buy a third bean field card as soon as possible. A third bean field card costs 3 gold, but through the course of the game, it feels like the extra flexibility from owning a third bean field will more than pay for itself, as you can save up more beans of a given type in order to sell them for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it ever worthwhile not to buy the third bean field? Has anyone calculated how much a third bean field is worth (on average) over the course of the game? Should you buy a third bean field as soon as possible, or wait only until it's necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastEditorUserId="112" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T21:15:25.953" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T23:03:18.220" Title="When should you avoid a third bean field in Bohnanza?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1573" CreationDate="2010-11-29T21:33:26.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how good you are at trading, how long you hold out for rare cards, and how the other players behave (e.g., would the other players refuse a donation they need so they can force you to harvest earlier? do the other players always buy third bean fields immediately?). It also depends on the number of players, but the game has you take out different beans for different numbers of players, so having fewer players doesn't always mean you're better off buying a third bean field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've actually found that buying a third bean field (rather than getting one from a &lt;em&gt;Field Bean&lt;/em&gt;) is rarely worth it in the base game. The winner of the games I've played has usually been determined by less than three thalers. I rarely find myself wishing I had bought a third bean field in the base game. (In the High Bohn&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/913/high-bohn&quot;&gt;original BGG&lt;/a&gt;|&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/12677/high-bohn-plus&quot;&gt;Plus version BGG&lt;/a&gt;|&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=111&quot;&gt;Publisher&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; version, however, I will almost always obtain a third bean field.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In short:&lt;/strong&gt; In the base game, I would only recommend a third bean field when it's necessary (you are confident you will make more than 3 coins) or when a large majority of your opponents are also buying third bean fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2010-11-29T23:45:56.737" LastActivityDate="2010-11-29T23:45:56.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1573" CreationDate="2010-11-29T23:01:45.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ahh Bohnanza. We play this quite often and we always buy the 3rd fields. I usually win with a lead of about 3-6 coins. In our family we are all fairly accommodating when it comes to trades and (at least I myself) don't think too much about what kind of beans will be coming up. If you play in a more competitive environment then my personal strategy (buy asap) might not be suitable to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest we've never explored the option of not buying the third field. We always buy them the first chance we get. I don't have any hard data but only a feel that in the end the field pays off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I admit that both firefeather and thesunneversets make good arguments against buying the field. Your ability to trade well and read the table will reduce the need for the field. I guess it is possible that the usefulness of the field depends largely on how good of a player you are (probably compared to your opponents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion you should go for it as soon as possible instead of waiting until you absolutely need it. It will cost the same amount of coins but the timespan in which you can profit from the increased possibilities will be longer. So you should evaluate your situation in the beginning and make a guess on whether or not you'll eventually need it and plan with that decision from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indications that you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; the third field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is difficult for your to get good trades (hostile environment or bad trading abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are more kinds of beans per player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are additional constraints on your growing like &quot;Contracts&quot; from the expansion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many or all of your opponents have the third field&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which all leads to &lt;strong&gt;you having to prematurely harvest your fields often&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indications that you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; need the third field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get good trades (cooperative environment or good trading skills)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can predict the future beans with a good reliability and plan for it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;None of your opponents has the third field&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resulting in &lt;strong&gt;you rarely having to harvest a field prematurely&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T08:16:10.280" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T08:16:10.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1573" CreationDate="2010-11-30T06:57:57.743" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never, ever buy the third bean field in Bohnanza &lt;em&gt;except as a last resort&lt;/em&gt; (and yes, I win at least my fair share of games and consider myself a good player).  Look at the final scoring margins of your games: is the winner usually ahead by half a dozen points or more?  In my experience, this is not the case, it's usually much closer than that, and as such, those 3 coins you spent on a third bean field could be the difference between first place and a much less auspicious final position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the question really is, does a third field usually pay for itself, or not?  Obviously it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; pay for itself.  But shrewd bargaining, good timing, and paying attention to what cards have been cashed in for gold do too, and I think working hard at improving those skills is way more important than getting a third field at the earliest opportunity.  The third field makes the game feel a lot easier - once you have one, you will very rarely be at risk of losing a crop before you have a chance to make some gold out of it.  In my experience that leads to complacency and complacency leads to less profitable bean farming!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, either you regularly find yourself with not enough fields to make money with, or you don't.  If you don't, you don't need a third bean field.  If you do, I feel like you could probably benefit from tightening up your game a little - the bean field is an easy but expensive way out of your problems.  In one of Uwe Rosenberg's other fine games, At The Gates of Loyang, there's the option to increase the size of your storage barn for a small cost, at which point you can keep 4 vegetables from one turn to the next instead of 1.  And I feel that it's a trap in that game too: if you are regularly producing more vegetables than you can use, you're doing something wrong.  Unless you've exhausted all the other possibilities for fixing your supply/demand imbalance, you want to be VERY wary of spending your valuable coins!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T06:57:57.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1590" CreationDate="2010-11-30T07:11:05.013" Score="7" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played a 6-player game of Small World with the Necromancer Island expansion and a lot of fun it was too.  Our Necromancer pulled off a narrow win by getting his 14th ghost onto the map at the very end of the final turn, it doesn't get much more climactic than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the Necromancer's success of course was getting himself into a position where it was nearly impossible for the other players to effectively oust him from the map; and in part he achieved this by investing in Seafaring, and taking both one of the map-edge sea regions... and also the lake surrounding Necromancer Island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, the rules are slightly unclear about how Seafaring interacts with the Necromancer Island expansion.  Necromancer Island itself does not count as a normal board region, and the rules explicitly state that the island's &quot;Lake Region is immune to other players (even Seafaring ones)&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does that mean that, with the Necromancer's Island expansion in play, the central Lake region is completely out of bounds to Seafaring races?  Or out of bounds to other Seafaring races, but available for conquest by a Seafaring Necromancer?  Or that the Lake region can be conquered by Seafaring as usual, but the island is unconquerable (and can still attack territories bordering the lake even if the lake is occupied)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ruled on the night that the Necromancer could conquer his own Lake... if only because the Seafaring power seems pathetically bad in a Necromancer Island game otherwise!  But it's not at all clear to me that it's the right answer.  If anyone knows of, or can hazard a guess at, an official ruling, it would be much appreciated!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2010-11-30T14:39:02.263" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T17:12:59.600" Title="Small World: Seafaring Necromancer!" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2010-11-30T09:34:01.260" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with Blokus is that it pays to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be confrontational. If the board splits into two 1v1 games, and players A and B are being confrontational and denying each other access wherever possible, and players C and D are being semi-cooperative and leaving gaps to work around each other, then players C and D will naturally get more of their pieces onto the board. If there's a region you've trapped all the other players out of, then you'll only be able to take advantage of about half the space. Whereas a region twice the size, shared between two players, can let both those players get twice as many of their pieces down, if they leave space for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while I've encountered people using the Barasona opening, I don't use it myself. I find it pays far better to have fingers in as many pies (areas of the board) as possible, and not care who has fingers in my pies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this end, I try to run straight for the centre, and then extend tendrils towards any zones that are looking particularly contested. Specifically I'll start with (in some order) Z, V, W; sometimes amended to insert the X, which I often find hard to shift later on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also aim to have my first 12 plays be the 12 pentominoes. This often isn't possible - I'll want to get a finger into an area that needs me to use the 4-square line or some such - but when I do manage it, it leaves me very well set up for the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T09:34:01.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1573" CreationDate="2010-11-30T10:33:17.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As in every good designed game, any option may be two-sided. It depends on game-situation and your personal strategy, if it is right to buy the third field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you should observe your own games and evaluate it after the play. Did you buy a third field and thereafter one nearly all the time one of your fields was empty or the game came to an fast end? Buying the third field was wrong. Continued the game on the other hand a long time and all your fields were filled nearly all the time. Good decision! If you didn't bought a field and you had often to clear a field early, because you needed the space? A third field would have been good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in what cases is a third field useful or not? Here some cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you prefer collecting rare or common beans? In the case of the rare beans a third field is useful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you cash in early or try to get max-coins from a field? If you keep your beans longer on a field you might need the third.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you play with many people? Many players have two effects. First the game is faster (not really faster, but everyone plays fewer turns). And it is easier to trade away unwanted beans and get wanted beans. Both things reduce the usefulness of the third field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you play generally with rule-variations, that makes the game faster like drawing  more cards? Faster games reduce the usefulness of the third field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you play with contracts from the first extension? The contracts can be solved with first/second or second/third field. So the third field makes that easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you play with extensions, that introduce new sorts of beans? More different sort of beans makes the third field more useful. More players may cancel this effect, because you can trade the unwanted beans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="407" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T11:00:10.970" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T11:00:10.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1593" CreationDate="2010-11-30T12:01:16.490" Score="6" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've lost galactic progress map for Twilight Imperium 2 edition. So now we can only play till one person obviously dominates all the others, which takes a lot of time. Each progress step requirements are not written in the rulebook. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has this edition of the game, can you please tell me, what the requirements are?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T04:38:55.570" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T04:38:55.570" Title="What are the requirements for progress?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1596" CreationDate="2010-11-30T12:01:47.330" Score="4" ViewCount="2513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/278/the-settlers-of-catan-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan Card Game&lt;/a&gt;, played two partial games, and was very disappointed because of the &lt;b&gt;seemingly huge importance of luck&lt;/b&gt;. Just about every action is based on chance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resources are distributed based on dice rolls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;land tiles are drawn randomly, except if you were lucky enough to pull the magic card allowing you to actually choose the land tiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hand cards are randomly drawn, except if you are lucky enough to own some resources you can spare. However, even then you still need some luck in choosing the best card stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some action cards need some more dicing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I played, the &quot;mill&quot; event was thrown over and over again by my opponent, so I never had any resources to advance my kingdom  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I particularly hate investing effort to plan ahead, just to see my strategy crushed under bad dice rolls. I am seriously considering throwing away the game after having played it only twice. However, I bought this game because it received &lt;b&gt;a lot of good internet reviews&lt;/b&gt;, even from reviewers I trust. Therefore I ask myself: is there really some strategy involved in this game, or do you just need a large amount of luck to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T03:59:06.287" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T03:59:06.287" Title="Is the luck factor indeed overwhelming in the Catan Card Game?" Tags="|luck|catan-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1585" CreationDate="2010-11-30T17:12:59.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not explicitly stated, it seems clear to me that the lake region no longer exists outside of Necromancer Island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the example of play on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/necromancer-island/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;smallworld-game&lt;/a&gt; website.  There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/575225/seafaring-gets-hosed-no-water-pun-intended&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;statement&lt;/a&gt; from the publisher on BGG agreeing to the statement, &quot;Seafaring is hosed&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder - the Necromancer only checks for victory on his own turn, not the other players.  He cannot spawn his way to victory on other players turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T17:12:59.600" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1588" CreationDate="2010-11-30T19:46:22.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/159338/twilight-imperium-2nd-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Galactic Progression Chart&lt;/a&gt;: If you view the original size it should be big enough to read, and maybe even print off as a replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T19:46:22.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1595" CreationDate="2010-11-30T19:55:18.627" Score="67" ViewCount="10528" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a community maintained list of online resources to play boardgames with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of more resources for online play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers that address the following points would be much appreciated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What game or games are supported? If the answer &quot;many&quot;, please consider a link to the list.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the operating system requirements, or is it web-based?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it support &quot;live&quot; play, where players are connected at the same time, as if playing together at a table?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it support asynchronous play - like play by email or any other mechanism that allows each player to make his moves in turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it have an active community? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it easy to use? Or does it at least have good documentation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T08:00:01.350" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T18:23:43.907" Title="Boardgaming Online" Tags="|online|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="18" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-02-18T07:50:17.007" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:02:55.603" Score="49" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Specific sites hosting one game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Agricola  @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://play-agricola.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brass @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://brass.orderofthehammer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://brass.orderofthehammer.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;Dominion @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dominion.isotropic.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hive @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hivemania.com/play/?0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hivemania.com/play/?0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settlers of Catan @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playcatan.com/catan-online-world.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.playcatan.com/catan-online-world.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gokgs.com/&lt;/a&gt; (see specific answer below for more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Through the Ages @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgaming-online.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgaming-online.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the Flood @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slothninja.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.slothninja.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ticket to Ride @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/play/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/play/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Memoir '44 @ &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44-online/en/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44-online/en/download/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Game agnostic toolsets&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;These tools are generally used for Play-by-email games.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cyberboard.brainiac.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cyberboard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VASSAL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://acts.warhorsesim.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ACTS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Portal sites hosting many games&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brettspielwelt.de/?nation=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BrettspielWelt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (40 games, a sample is given here)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Castle for All Seasons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caylus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dominion (very limited card set available; see above for a site with all the cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imperial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pandemic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Grid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stone Age&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://board-games.pogo.com/?pageSection=categorybar_board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pogo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (21 boardgames, 29 cardgames)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Risk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Canasta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battleship&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boiteajeux.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boite à jeux&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (18 boardgames)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alhambra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shazamm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="21331" LastEditDate="2019-08-25T18:23:43.907" LastActivityDate="2019-08-25T18:23:43.907" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1589" CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:05:17.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, not in my experience. In fact, the Catan Card Game has a great depth of strategy and many ways to offset the luck of the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chances will be greatly helped if you've found a Scout card, certainly. It should ALWAYS be one of your starting cards if you have the chance. If you don't, then you know there's one in the three stacks that neither of you searched to start with. Use the ability to cycle a card from hand, and pay two useless resources (gold, or sheep or corn) to search more stacks for a Scout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do get a Scouted settlement, choose the numbers carefully. I try to choose a brick or ore that has the same number as my gold hex, so I get a real resource on every number. You could do the opposite and deliberately seek out both 5s so that you have a natural choice to Alchemist for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a game or two you acquire something of an instinct for which cards are good early, good late, good all the time (Merchant), or never good. Cycle your hand aggressively: you should always be aiming to draw a card per turn unless you have a really perfect hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different approaches / strategies for how you deal with the event die, depending on your attitude to the luck of the game. If you're playing cautiously, you'll try to keep windmill points at least balanced with your opponent so they can't steal from you, and try to seek out tournament-point knights to get the tournament resources. I personally tend to go for the windmill token anyway as one of my 11 VP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T20:05:17.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1523" CreationDate="2010-11-30T20:40:14.187" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great solution to this struck me as I was falling asleep a few nights ago (strange how the brain works): I won't need the expansion boxes anymore, so I could cannibalize those into smaller boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a lot of careful measuring, I took the expansion box lids and scored them across the top in three places with a pair of scissors and a ruler, creating straight fold-lines.  Then I trimmed off the bottom edge and a portion of each side, and folded on my scored lines.  I made my boxes a few eights of an inch taller than they are wide, but I think an even square (i.e. three equally spaced score marks on the lid) would be just fine, maybe even better, since a couple of mine turned out to be a tighter fit than I intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kept the two corners in the upper portion of the lid intact, so it could serve as a lid on my smaller box, hinging at one of my folds.  I folded the whole thing up and, after some final trimming, I taped the corners together.  I also supported each folds with a strip of tape, to make sure they don't wear out and fall apart later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new box with hinged lid closed:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p7xCY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reduced-size box closed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box holds tiles and a baggie with game pieces.  The lid is the intact portion from the top of the original box lid.  The front, bottom, and back are all from the top of the original lid, all rolled up along my score marks.  I kept a square from the sides of the original lid for the end pieces of the box.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8qKI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;reduced-size box with swinging lid, full&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I trimmed the original cardboard insert and just kept the long narrow part that holds the tiles (bottom of last photo, below).  This left room for my three re-sized expansion boxes (Princess, Traders, and Inns), plus my small expansions (The Count, King &amp;amp; Scout, River II, and River (rubberbanded)) and my meeples in a bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; Carcassonne expansions would fit using this method, but I own most of them, and it fit nicely for me.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nRL8D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;multiple expansion boxes inside main Carcassonne box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My attempt at a diagram.  This is the expansion box lid in original form, with cuts and folds marked.  Create a mock-up with a piece of scratch paper first, if that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use scissors to score the three dashed lines across the top of the box (equally spaced).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cut out the X'd portions - the entire bottom edge and the center portion of each side edge.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fold the three scored marks to transform the large surface of the original lid into the front, back, bottom, and top of the new box.  The top edge of the original lid will now be the front flap of the new box.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The new lid will be just a little too tall for your new box, so trim it to match.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tape up the corners.  You can also tape the folded edges for durability.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o4UsS.png&quot; alt=&quot;diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="78" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T19:52:57.777" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T19:52:57.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-11-30T21:45:26.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eyeplaygames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EyePlay Games&lt;/a&gt; has an online version of Robo Rally that allows for both live play and extended &quot;play by mail&quot; style games where people may only complete a turn or two each day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T21:45:26.627" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-11-30T22:54:45.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this would work well for you, as you didn't mentioned exactly what type of things you're transporting, but I'll throw it out there as a posibility for when you need to transport larger items (eg, I have a wh40k scale titan that I built for a friend when the Armageddon rules came out)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find a container of a suitable size for transporting the items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get two heavy duty plastic bags, each larger than the container (can be lighter weight, but then it won't be as durable.  The more in/out bits the item to be cushioned has protruding from it, the larger the bag you'll need. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get enough spray foam from the hardware store to fill the container.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;find a couple of heavy twist ties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tape a bag to the tube for the spray foam, leaving as much space as possible for the bag to expand.  Do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; fill the bag with air, only open it enough to get the tube on and secure the bag's opening.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using more than one can of spray foam, prepare the other bag, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place the first bag into the box, and fill it part-way with foam, then set the item onto the bag, and fill the bag until it's takes up about half of the empty space in the box.  (you may have to move the spray tube to the next can and/or just use a bag per can ... more bags means the foam will separate into more pieces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place the second bag on top, and close the lid as best you can, with the tube sticking out the side, and fill the bag with foam 'til it starts trying to come out the container.  (note -- some spray foams continue to grow after spraying ... it's a good idea to pay attention to how it grows w/ the first bag, so you can be prepared)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;let cure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works well for packing stuff once, but the foam sets up fairly hard, and so you sometimes have to break the foam when removing the item, which makes it less useful for repacking multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be able to just place all of the items in the bottom of a shallow box, use a single bag of foam over it, then once cured, flip the whole thing over to have little recesses for each piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the question was simply 'how do I keep the pieces from rattling together', I'd go with egg-crate foam; you place the pieces in the valleys of the foam, put another piece on top, then compress the whole thing together.  For anything but stuff with really fine and/or delicate parts, it works great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that still isn't enough for you, and you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; wanted to make one of those boards with various sized holes in it, then you'll need lots of free time, some sheets of foam (but not too rubbery ... it seems to attract hair and dirt), contact cement, a few sharp craft knives, and some free time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each tray, you'll need two pieces of foam -- one to hold the piece, and one as a 'bottom' to the tray.  The bottom should be stiffer, but fairly thin, such as camping pad.  The other one should be thicker, but 'softer' material, tall enough to sufficiently hold the piece laying down.  You should be able to find this at fabric stores, as it's used for upholstering.  You'll then want one of the thin but stiffer pieces as a lid to the whole thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're only going to be cutting the pieces that are thicker and softer.  For each hole, you'll want to cut it just under the size of the piece it's going to hold.  How much smaller depends on how soft the material is.  (the softer it is, the smaller you'll want the hole, basically, you want to wedge the piece in the hole and it to hold firmly if it's heavy such as metal figures; you want it less tight if it's lightweight with more delicate parts).  Cut all the way through to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got all of the holes cut in the sheet, use the contact cement to attach the cut piece of foam to one of the bottoms.  Make sure to read the warnings on contact cement; they're not kidding when they say shut off the pilot lights in the house as it's highly flamable.  I'd also recommend using a disposable brush (or a scrap of foam), as it's a pain to clean up after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're all done, you have a series of trays that you can stack together, and then put the lid on it, and transport.  (although, it also helps to identify a container to set it all into first, and make them to fit the container for easier transport)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-11-30T22:54:45.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:41:01.763" Score="0" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some worthy online versions of board games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete working versions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a site that is easily accessible (so no spam, lots of pop-ups or requires handing over excessive information to sign up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a true version of the original (same rules, look and feel, game play) so no poor quality clones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reasonably active community so there are enough players to have a game any time of day&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify they should be online games that replicate an existing board game. Not just any online board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2010-12-01T09:10:16.270" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T10:39:34.950" Title="What board games have good quality versions available for play online for free?" Tags="|online|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-01T00:56:01.140" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride can be played at the Days of Wonder site, and is a very authentic play experience.  Unfortunately, you can only play a few trial games before they expect you to fork over some cash to carry on, but it's a pretty nominal fee and if you really liked Ticket to Ride I'm sure it'd be worth it.  Anyway, the first few games do cost nothing, so I think this is a valid answer to your question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/play/&quot;&gt;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/play/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know people will recommend the play-agricola site and the like, but I personally find having to manually manage all your tokens, and other fiddly aspects of the turn, removes much of the joy from the experience.  I think I would happily pay a small subscription fee for a really good implementation of Agricola (my favourite boardgame!) online that removes the spadework.  If you'll forgive that farming-related pun...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T00:56:01.140" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-01T01:15:02.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another portal for lesser known games is &lt;a href=&quot;http://superdupergames.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SuperDuperGames.org&lt;/a&gt;. I haven't played anything on there in forever, it is turn based, but can go pretty fast if you happen to be online at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet another board game portal is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gametableonline.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game Table Online&lt;/a&gt;.  And yet again, haven't played there forever, I know that most of the games cost money to play, but there are some free ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T01:15:02.543" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1558" CreationDate="2010-12-01T01:48:24.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently even the two designers are not completely in agreement over this issue. It has come up on BGG more than once. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/446592/being-awarded-governor-card-after-passing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; references two other threads where each designer gives an opinion on whether or not you should discard at the end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jarret Gray says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard is part of pass. The cards are&#xA;  supposed to return immediately to&#xA;  their respective piles. This can&#xA;  create some interesting timing&#xA;  effects, like blocking an opponent&#xA;  from drawing a good card. The downside&#xA;  is that when a player discards you&#xA;  have to wait for them. If the cards go&#xA;  back at the end of the turn then you&#xA;  can carry on the game while they&#xA;  number crunch. The game is intended to&#xA;  be played the first way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carl de Visser says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You should still meet the card limit&#xA;  at the end of the turn. Checking the&#xA;  rules, this is only implied in the End&#xA;  of the Round section with &quot;Once&#xA;  discards are complete&quot;. Basically&#xA;  there should be another check at the&#xA;  end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;de Visser was specifically responding to the question of acquiring a governor card after passing, Gray was not. He was only answering the general question of whether discarding occurs after passing or at the end of the turn. So he probably wasn't considering the odd circumstance of getting another card after passing. Had that case been brought up he might have said both, as did de Visser, but all we have to go on is what they did say and Gray clearly says you don't discard at the end of the turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules-as-written are pretty explicit that discarding only occurs immediately after passing. That is also supported by the comment of one designer, but explicitly contradicted by the other. So there is certainly evidence to back up either ruling, but no definitive answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't like the idea of exceeding the card limit for a full turn, and really don't like the idea of getting to score cards that exceed the limit. So I'll probably go with discarding after passing and also at the end of the turn. I may even consider immediate discard as that makes the most sense to me, and there is some slight justification for that in the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T01:48:24.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-01T03:47:02.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to play Risk, Axis &amp;amp; Allies, Diplomacy, or a variety of other games online, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GamesByEmail.com&lt;/a&gt;. It's a pretty simple, easy to use site. Also, the guy who runs the site, Scott Nesin, happily let's others create/enhance games using the JavaScript library he created. If you are a programmer you can create your own games (or enhance existing ones) and get them up on the site! See &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/Developers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Developers Page&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The games are all JavaScript-based so there's no program you have to download or Java applet you have to run and you can create games by inviting certain players or by playing against other random users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T03:47:02.203" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-01T06:14:06.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although in beta, the quality of Memoir '44 online feels like a quality shrinkwrap product.  You can plenty of games for free before having to fork over money:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44-online/en/download/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44-online/en/download/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T06:14:06.097" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-01T09:09:16.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another I use fairly regularly is the Brass online game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brass.orderofthehammer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://brass.orderofthehammer.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is slightly different to most of the others, because it allows you to play turn by turn, and will notify you via email when it is your go. Therefore, you do not all need to be in session to play. I have played a game over a week before now.&#xA;If you are all online however, you can play it in a few hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T09:09:16.990" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1638" CreationDate="2010-12-01T11:16:55.877" Score="4" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the better strategy in Poison (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17025/poison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;)? Trying to get nothing at all may be a good strategy, but sometimes hard. Is it better to try to get the most of a color, so that this color doesn't count for you? Avoiding the poison, without a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T22:42:32.220" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T22:42:32.220" Title="Should I avoid getting any pot in Poison or try to pick a color and get as much as possible?" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-01T12:53:03.670" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Race for the Galaxy - you have to download but you can play online and single player&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keldon.net/rftg/&quot;&gt;http://www.keldon.net/rftg/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="500" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T12:53:03.670" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1616" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:00:57.403" Score="10" ViewCount="2393" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what situations is Upgrade (Intrigue) useful? I have never seen anyone buy Upgrade in the games I've played where it was available. Whenever I play with Upgrade and Swindler, I always give Upgrade to my opponents in exchange for their 5-cost cards. They never know what to do with it... What are we doing wrong? How can we make use of this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SaxSg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T17:52:03.027" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T18:13:51.527" Title="Proper use of Dominion card Upgrade" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:13:54.517" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Upgrade to gradually improve your deck while also carrying out a larger strategy.  Because Upgrade is non-terminal (that +1 Action) you can turn your Estates into Silver or middling 4-cost cards into more powerful 5-cost cards while still playing your other Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is tricky, I won't deny that, but it can have some value.  I don't see it as the core of your strategy, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T18:13:54.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1641" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:19:39.690" Score="14" ViewCount="75235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does the Dealer post the small blind and the other player post the big blind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the person to the left of the dealer will post the small blind then the second player to the left of the dealer will post the big blind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why does this switch when going heads-up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Texas_hold-em#Betting_structures&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When only two players remain, special 'head-to-head' or 'heads up' rules are enforced and the blinds are posted differently. In this case, the person with the dealer button posts the small blind, while his/her opponent places the big blind. The dealer acts first before the flop. After the flop, the dealer acts last and continues to do so for the remainder of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2017-09-18T02:25:01.730" Title="Texas Hold'Em Heads-Up Blind Structure" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1573" CreationDate="2010-12-01T18:55:28.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that every single new player has asked this in our group. The best we can come up with is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you haven't bought one by the time of the 2nd run through the deck, don't.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastEditorUserId="478" LastEditDate="2010-12-05T10:18:50.400" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T10:18:50.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2010-12-01T20:49:37.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrade allows you to thin your deck with a non terminal action.  Being able to get rid of coppers and curses is almost always helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You an also trade out poorly performing or obsolete cards for better cards.  Heck, upgrade an Upgrade to a gold :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love being able to thin my deck and will almost always grab 1-2 of these if there are no better deck thinning options available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T20:49:37.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2010-12-01T22:27:43.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Money-heavy play is indeed strong in the base set. You're simply better off buying a Silver or Gold most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, the expansions make action cards and combos much stronger. Unfortunately, the expansions cost money. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-12-01T22:27:43.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2010-12-01T22:27:49.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the +1 Card and +1 Action, Upgrade is one of only two &quot;gain a card costing X more&quot; (note: I'm ignoring Forge here) cards that has the word &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; on it (the other is Cornucopia's Remake).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning that if you Upgrade a Copper or Curse, you get nothing back (assuming you didn't play a Bridge before it).  With Remodel and Expand, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; gain another card costing &lt;strong&gt;up to&lt;/strong&gt; 2 or 3 more, even if the cost is lower than that of the card you trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/67kjf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Remodel&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWuJY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Expand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WGjdh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bridge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T18:13:51.527" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T18:13:51.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1631" CreationDate="2010-12-02T00:08:09.877" Score="13" ViewCount="4394" Body="&lt;p&gt;What the heck is the &quot;Traveling Player&quot; space for in Agricola (family game)? Besides gaining the food there, is there anything else significant about that space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="507" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T01:03:46.057" Title="Agricola: Traveling Player?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1628" CreationDate="2010-12-02T00:22:00.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the regular versions, &lt;strong&gt;Traveling Players&lt;/strong&gt; accumulates 1 food a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike the regular version, there are no occupations or minor improvements to play to gain a greater advantage from that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T00:22:00.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1628" CreationDate="2010-12-02T00:37:09.920" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traveling Players only becomes &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; relevant in the full game, when players' Occupations and Minor Improvements may trigger off using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why is it still there in the family game, you ask?  Well, Agricola is a pretty tough game for newbies to &quot;grok&quot; on the first play, or even the first few plays.  The last thing you want is for them to have three Begging cards by the end of the second harvest, and vow never to play this stupid game again!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By having multiple spaces that just contain food piling up, even the least clued-up player has an obvious way of saving his family from grim starvation at the end of the harvest rounds.  And that's good.  Once they get a bit more experienced, they will turn their noses up at such an inefficient way of turning actions into food... but's that another story, for a later day!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T00:37:09.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="563" CreationDate="2010-12-02T04:52:30.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;1830: Take a Ride on the Reading&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic 1830 with the addition of the Reading variant.  This variant can be downloaded from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/56839/1830-take-a-ride-on-the-reading&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardgame Geek&lt;/a&gt;.  It adds a new company, the Reading, which competes with the Pennsy.  More importantly it adds a delayed rust rule for trains which gives new players some extra protection against being choked out early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally there is r&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/469460/1830-second-edition-coming-in-2011-its-official&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;umor that the reprint&lt;/a&gt; may include one or more of the variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T04:52:30.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2010-12-02T06:11:39.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two key points here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your deck starts out bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many cards are much better in the early game than later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use upgrade to solve both problems. Getting rid of your starting copper (and likely estates) will improve your deck. So will trashing that first-turn buy that's just too weak to get you to provinces later. It's a non-terminal action, so it gives you a way to trash these cards &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; wasting turns, as you tend to do with something like chapel or steward. And do remember: it's an &lt;em&gt;upgrade&lt;/em&gt;. You're not just removing a weak link, you're replacing it with something to strengthen your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some great special cases, too, like upgrading four-cost actions to duchies in the end game, and trashing curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T06:11:39.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2010-12-02T07:12:20.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy many &lt;code&gt;Upgrade&lt;/code&gt; as early as possible in the game. This is a really good starting strategy. By many, I mean as much as 5 or 6 cards. It will clean your deck so quickly from all the &lt;code&gt;Copper&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Estate&lt;/code&gt;, you will be able to upgrade your &lt;code&gt;Upgrade&lt;/code&gt; into &lt;code&gt;Gold&lt;/code&gt; and reach the &lt;code&gt;Province&lt;/code&gt; much faster than you can imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget to upgrade your &lt;code&gt;Estate&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Great Hall&lt;/code&gt; (instead of &lt;code&gt;Silver&lt;/code&gt;) if both are on the table!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T07:12:20.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1613" CreationDate="2010-12-02T09:16:43.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I certainly favor taking a color. With good players it's impossible to get nothing, and if you pick a single color you'll have some control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start specializing in a color other players are unlikely to take any of that color if they can help it, ensuring you'll get the majority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that solid majority, towards the last half or third of the game, you can foist pots of that color onto other players, knowing they'll be stuck with points. This gives you power that you don't have if you take nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, everyone else is trying to do the same thing. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T09:16:43.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2010-12-02T09:31:53.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A third option along the lines of Vassal and Cyberboard is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zuntzu.com/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ZunTzu&lt;/a&gt;, and a fourth is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.battlegroundsgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battlegrounds&lt;/a&gt;. Games available for the first three highly favor wargames, though there are certainly decent eurogames on the lists. Battlegrounds, cautious about getting in trouble for copyright violation due to scans of game parts, doesn't have a list of games but there are quite a few out there, Google being your pal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only played actual games through Vassal, and found the interface to be clunky, but we were certainly able to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to create new games in the Vassal, Cyberboard, and ZunTzu systems and, despite being a programmer, gamer, and generally smart dude, found them to be some combination of impenetrable and too limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind you, plenty of people enjoy them, and there's not reason to think you won't, but they didn't turn out to be what I was hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T09:31:53.610" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:45:08.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-12-02T13:09:25.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25669/qwirkle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Qwirkle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fun, puzzly tactical decisions and people pick it up almost instantly. While it's not one of my personal favorites, I've introduced it to many groups of non- and light-gamers to great acclaim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/25159/qwirkle-score-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this scoreboard&lt;/a&gt; (or one of the others) or use anything besides their suggested method of tracking scores with pen and paper: not only is the pen and paper a hassle (everyone scores every turn and turns are fast) but knowing who's in the lead at a glance allows for a little leader-semi-bashing, making the result more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T13:09:25.860" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-02T22:35:44.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2010-12-02T13:18:24.947" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, as Wikipedia hints at, to make sure that a different player acts first before that flop than after the flop — just as in non-heads-up, where “Under The Gun” (the player after the Big Blind) acts first before the flop, and the Small Blind acts first after the flop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In heads up, if the non-dealer would post the Small Blind and the dealer the Big Blind, then the non-dealer would act first both before and after the flop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess it would be possible to “reverse” the rule, and instead “simply” let the dealer act first after the flop, but that would be a rule exception after the flop, so if someone would make a mistake in the order of play it would probably be more complicated to “clean up” or “reverse” that mistake after the flop than before it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="512" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T03:09:59.233" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T03:09:59.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-12-02T14:24:18.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;: I've found that Carcassonne is very easy to teach in a few minutes by simply demonstrating the game.  Shuffle up the tiles and play a few sample turns, explaining what the optimal move for each tile would be and why.  This will give players a basic understanding on the various ways to score points, and they can discover advanced strategies (adding additional meeples into fields or buildings, blocking other player's moves to freeze meeples on the board, etc.) as they play the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T14:24:18.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1645" CreationDate="2010-12-02T15:38:46.563" Score="14" ViewCount="3840" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have 1 or 2 new people who are interested in joining our lunch Dominion games where I work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd like to teach them about the various rules unique to each of these sets: Base, Intrigue, Seaside, and Prosperity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone recommend a card set that will teach all the important game rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: We've stopped using Alchemy's potions in our games and instead replace a card's potion cost with a 3-coin cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T02:05:30.587" Title="Good set of cards for teaching beginners" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|dominion-intrigue|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1325" CreationDate="2010-12-02T16:12:57.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;2nd Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This edition adjusted or clarified a few of the rules (and the matching graphics). The rule changes were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sheriff can't be put in jail. (1st Edition: Sheriff could be put in jail.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard &lt;em&gt;Jail&lt;/em&gt; after you skip one turn. (1st Edition: &lt;em&gt;Jail&lt;/em&gt; was not discarded until a heart ♥ or diamond ♦ was drawn.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When performing a &lt;em&gt;draw!&lt;/em&gt; for jail, the flipped-over card must be hearts ♥ to get you out of jail. (1st Edition: The flipped-over card could be hearts ♥ &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; diamonds ♦.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sid Ketchum has 4 life points. (1st Edition: Sid Ketchum had 3 life points.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were also a few changes in cards' names:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cavallo (Horse)&lt;/em&gt; became &lt;em&gt;Mustang&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maestrina (Mistress)&lt;/em&gt; became &lt;em&gt;Cat Balou&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Indiani! (Injuns!)&lt;/em&gt; become &lt;em&gt;Indiani! (Indians!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3rd Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bang! The Bullet!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a compilation release, it contained the 3 expansions released at that point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High Noon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dodge City&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Fistful of Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also included&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 special character cards&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncle Will&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Johnny Kisch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claus &quot;The Saint&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 additional high noon cards&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Identity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handcuffs &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A sheriff's badge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This release contained the 3rd edition of the basic game rules and the 2nd edition of the Dodge City rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;4th Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;—&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T19:51:39.177" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T19:51:39.177" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T07:41:02.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1643" CreationDate="2010-12-02T17:02:42.147" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend any one card set to teach all the important rules from each expansion.  That may be too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For brand new beginners, I recommend the &quot;Big Money&quot; set from the first game.  I use this before the one recommended by the base set rules (&quot;First Play&quot;?) because it teaches the trade off between money and actions.  First Play is really a preview of all the different card abilities, which may give the erroneous impression that the game is all about actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'd play random sets (with some drafting) from the combined sets and teach the rules as they come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T17:02:42.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1643" CreationDate="2010-12-02T18:12:53.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest avoid extra actions for the first game... Only use Throne Room/Expand if you have no +1 action cards, and don't use any +2 action cards. Combos can be fun, but they can both extend the length of the game, and are harder to grasp for a newbie, often leaving them wondering why their turns are always short and boring while yours take forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T18:12:53.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-12-02T18:54:40.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dice game similar to the ones suggested by Matt Dillard is &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AaMR1KWIUR9UZGRtYnhtdF80MmZiZHZjemhn&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Booty for Booty&lt;/a&gt;. You are in command of an unruly pirate crew and have to sail from place to place trying to collect booty. It has nice, whimsical humor and plenty of odd events which can happen to your ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea would be to take an existing game and set up an AI algorithm (I've done this myself with several Dvorak decks, and also the game of Hearts; just think of how you play and apply it to the opponents.) This option can amount to playing against yourself, though, and if you don't set up the algorithm well enough, you will find the AI making horrible moves. Sometimes I actually do both good and poor algorithms, since playing with both intelligent and unintelligent opponents livens things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Humble Penguin" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:23:55.177" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:23:55.177" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-12-02T19:07:00.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;a href=&quot;http://scrabble.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scrabble&lt;/a&gt; often as just a single player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All rules stay the same, but you're just looking to optimize every play for the most number of points (and I personally disallow myself to turn-in my tiles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also optimize for always playing the longest possible word, or finishing your personal game in, say, 25 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2010-12-02T19:07:00.657" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1651" CreationDate="2010-12-02T21:27:40.023" Score="27" ViewCount="41272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Settlers of Catan yet, but I've been considering asking my gaming group if they want to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, Settlers of Catan is now in its fourth major version.  If I do get a Catan box, should I just get the current (fourth) edition, or is there some reason to look for used copies of earlier editions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: I forgot to mention, we will also be getting the 5-6 player extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T06:49:24.083" LastActivityDate="2021-12-04T00:15:07.630" Title="What are the differences between the four editions of The Settlers of Catan base game?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-12-02T23:47:42.787" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new fourth edition has a few minor changes in appearance, and the biggest change is a new set of border pieces that surround the hexagon tiles to keep them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to know is that they do not mix and match very well: if you have the 3rd edition of Settlers, you should buy the 3rd edition of the expansions.  If you have the 4th edition of the base game, you should buy the 4th edition expansions.  So if you're just getting into it, I would suggest buying the new edition, since the corresponding expansions will be easier to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T15:55:02.797" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T15:55:02.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-12-03T00:49:57.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never thought of this as a problem, but always as &lt;em&gt;a deliberate feature&lt;/em&gt; - sometimes it's possible to slip a Big Meeple into a city without drawing attention to it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Okay, so I finish the city and I get the points, because I have two workers to your one.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Actually... you might want to look at my guy again...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that some groups' sense of fairness will result in a lynching if anyone tries to pull off something as &quot;underhand&quot; as this, but still, I'm pretty sure the Big Meeple is close in size to his smaller brethren as by a deliberate design choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T00:49:57.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-12-03T14:52:23.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a huge (and stupid) rule addition with the later editions, where if you run out of resource cards during a production phase, no one gets anything.  In the old rules (1999, Mayfair) there was no rule on it, so our group always played where you parcel out that resource starting at the die roller, and going clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new rules also allow you to move the robber to a desert hex, which was not allowed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2013-12-23T04:39:44.037" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T04:39:44.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-12-03T15:15:49.827" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cities &amp;amp; Knights, there changed what some of the progress cards are.  The card that lets you disable an opponents city has been removed in the 4th edition.  I'm not sure what additions it was in, but one of my friends complained quite loudly when he realized they had removed the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would get the 4th edition, since it's easier to find, and the expansions will be easier to get.  Most of the changes have been minor and make game play easier.  My only complaint about the quality of the 4th edition is that I wish the frame pieces were sturdier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T15:15:49.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2010-12-03T18:19:28.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the German version (Die Siedler von Catan), and it has different (plastic) pieces for roads, etc.  The board pieces are a slightly different size, as well as the resource cards.  Therefore, if you plan on getting the expansions, make sure that you stick with the US versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T18:19:28.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1665" CreationDate="2010-12-03T18:56:36.063" Score="30" ViewCount="22225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of discussions about the basic strategies newcomers to Dominion develop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First you buy as many action cards as you can get you hands on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After several games, someone discovers Big Money and wins over the clogged decks of strategy #1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You realize that selective purchase of just a few action cards augments Big Money enough to give winning strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I feel like the base set stops there.  I bought the base set several months ago, and soon after my friend bought Intrigue and Seaside.  My general strategy evolved into something a lot like #3 above, where his became huge on action chaining (and annoyingly long turns with some card setups).  When Prosperity came out, we both bought it, but for me, it just seemed to take my general strategy a little further with bigger money cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, owning the base set affected my key strategy a lot differently than owning Intrigue did for my friend.  He and I seem to be pretty equally paired when we play, however, when I go over to isotropic and play online, I find I get slaughtered especially when Intrigue (and sometimes Seaside) cards make up most of the 10 kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's my question: &lt;strong&gt;Most players went through stages 1 through 3 above when they get the base set.  What follows those after picking up Intrigue?&lt;/strong&gt;  I feel like I'm really missing something when it comes to the Intrigue cards; a lot more cards work together in a lot more combinations in a way the base set doesn't, so how do you learn to capitalize on that better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T18:04:47.923" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T18:04:47.923" Title="How does Intrigue change your general Dominion strategy?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1662" CreationDate="2010-12-03T19:31:57.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You allude to this, but I think a key in Intrigue is knowing which cards interact with each other.  There are a lot of ways this is important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identifying which Kingdom cards can mitigate the effects of the Attack cards your opponent bought&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finding ways to use two terminal actions in the same turn by supplementing them with +Action cards (for example, playing two copies of Bridge is fantastic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Intrigue cards, like all the expansions, have a lot more 'complex' cards that go beyond the +X +Y +Z pattern on a lot of the base cards.  All I can say is that the more you play with Intrigue (ideally with more than 2 people, also) the more you'll see and learn interesting interactions between the cards in the set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, nothing helps you in Dominion more than knowing the cards.  If you've played with every one of the 10 cards out there, you're not guaranteed a win or anything, but you will just be more familiar with the different pros and cons of each and you'll be able to come up with a strategy faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T19:31:57.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2010-12-03T20:37:36.203" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beginners in Dominion suffer from the same cognitive problem that beginners in Magic the Gathering do: they only see how much a card costs in terms of what they spent on it.  They don't notice another cost, that it &lt;i&gt;takes up space in their deck&lt;/i&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people start playing Magic they think &quot;Wow!  An Ornithopters costs 0 mana to cast?  I'll put 4 in my deck!&quot;.  And then keep drawing 0/2 flyers instead of something that actually does anything.  Likewise, those starting out in Dominion tend to always use a spare Buy to obtain more Copper coins.  Stuff is good, they think - not realizing that mediocre stuff can actually be worse than no stuff at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own Prosperity yet but: it looks to me as if Loan would be a great way of removing Coppers from your deck, until all you have are Silvers and Golds, which are what you really want to be drawing every turn!  I think the key to thinking about this card is understanding that it doesn't do anything &lt;b&gt;bad&lt;/b&gt; to your game even if you hit treasure cards you don't want to discard - it's cycled through your deck for you, which is a good thing.  At worst it's an expensive Copper that gets you to the good stuff in your deck faster.  At best, it efficiently kills off the Copper cards that are clogging up your deck, once you reach the stage where you have better treasure cards that you want to draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one player just buys Loans and another just buys Silvers, obviously Loans start to look hugely inferior.  But if one player buys only Silvers and the other buys Silvers but also 1 or 2 Loans... pretty soon the second player's Copper-light draws will start to be more efficient!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-03T20:37:36.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1662" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:17:36.997" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Intrigue generally has nastier attack cards than Base does, and you really need to avoid getting hit by them or at least learn how to deal with their fallout.  The three major attacks are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saboteur:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/l54UV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saboteur Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only card in the game that can force you to trash a Colony or Province (and not get one back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swindler:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bmOC7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swindler Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows your opponent to force you to trash a card and give you one of the same cost.  Essentially, they can dilute your deck, and even give you Curses if you trashed a Copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, for Colony and Province, this just wears down their respective piles, as the cost has to be the same.  Note: For any card, if there is no card of the same cost left, you just lose that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very late Edit: There is one other card that costs 8... Peddler.  I suggest not playing a game with both Peddler and Swindler in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torturer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qqAtX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torturer Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nasty card, particularly when used with Base's Throne Room or Prosperity's King's Court.  Unlike Militia, Ghost Ship, or Goons, Torturer does not stop when you only have three cards.  Also of note is that the Curse goes into your hand should you choose to take it, so you can use it with things like Chapel when your turn rolls around... or if it's King's Courted, take two curses then discard them for the third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one more attack card (Minion) and two pseudo-attack cards (Masquerade and Tribute; they're not attack cards, so you can't block them)... you really should look through all the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Intrigue&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intrigue cards&lt;/a&gt; to see what they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T22:01:33.907" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T22:01:33.907" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1666" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2010-12-03T21:52:11.987" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Board and Card Games - Stack Exchange&lt;/strong&gt; is for expert Q&amp;amp;A from people who like playing, discussing the strategy of, and getting rules clarifications of board games, designing board games or modifying the rules of existing board games.&#xA;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How do we define Board Games?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please see &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/174/if-you-cant-sit-down-at-a-table-and-play-it-its-not-a-board-or-card-game-goo/180#180&quot;&gt;this meta question&lt;/a&gt; for the full discussion, the summary is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be playable on or around a table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have objective rules of play and win conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Offer dynamic challenges, either through other players, randomization, or both&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be playable by hand, by human players implementing all of the rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What are some examples of boardgames that are on topic here?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is far from a complete list, but we have many questions on the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collectible Card Games&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic:The Gathering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokemon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;German&quot; style boardgames&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dominion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional boardgames&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axis&amp;amp;Allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Traditional Card games&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strategic games&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cooperative boardgames&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minature wargames (including the preparation of miniatures/terrain/etc)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warhammer 40k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warmachine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battletech&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a question to be on topic, it must relate to a game that is on topic, but the particular instance that the question is referring to may loosen those rules. Questions about playing games with giant pieces will make a game not playable around a table, but if it's a game that &lt;em&gt;could be&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;is normally&lt;/em&gt; played around a table, it's fine. Questions about Go problems or Chess problems are fine, even if they are static puzzles, since they are related to a dynamic game. Questions about computer implementations of board games are fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;We're not the right place to ask questions about:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer games, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://gaming.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;gaming.stackexchange.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Role Playing games, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://rpg.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;rpg.stackexchange.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puzzles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game Recommendation/Shopping questions, this includes all questions that could be phrased like:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best game for ... ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which game is like ... ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T06:44:05.700" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T06:44:05.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-12-04T05:56:20.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gmtgames.com/p-294-labyrinth.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Labyrinth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Labyrinth takes 1 or 2 players inside the Islamist jihad and the global war on terror. With broad scope, ease of play, and a never-ending variety of event combinations similar to GMT's highly popular Twilight Struggle, Labyrinth portrays not only the US efforts to counter extremists' use of terrorist tactics but the wider ideological struggle—guerrilla warfare, regime change, democratization, and much more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:22:54.377" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:22:54.377" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1716" CreationDate="2010-12-04T13:20:35.190" Score="2" ViewCount="1131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for full-text (or even better, image) spoilers for the old Shadowrun collectible card game (interchangeably known as Shadowrun TCG or CCG).  Basically, I'm looking for a list of all the cards, plus their rules in one convenient package.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There used to be a Geocities site that had them, but the site is long gone now, so I wondered if anyone knows of another site that might have them.  I've done a fair amount of searching, and nothing has come up yet, for what it's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-12T22:31:40.607" LastActivityDate="2018-10-12T22:31:40.607" Title="Looking for full spoilers for the Shadowrun CCG" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1684" CreationDate="2010-12-04T20:38:14.717" Score="18" ViewCount="11859" Body="&lt;p&gt;On any given day we can have any number of players, up to ten, so that's not a limitation. Keep in mind that setup, play and packing up needs to be done in the hour. My coworkers are all experienced board gamers, so complexity is not an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2010-12-04T22:33:22.727" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T22:54:55.680" Title="What are good games to play during a one-hour lunch break?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="28" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:28:53.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1570" CreationDate="2010-12-04T21:16:23.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has some similar ideas (e.g. your ship gets new abilities as you build it up), but it's really a totally different game.  And, I think, a better one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-12-04T21:16:23.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-05T02:41:51.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euchre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Euchre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's dead simple to set up and easy to learn.  I worked in a office where we regularly had two games going every day.  Anyone was welcome to play, just sit down and deal.  We usually could play two full games (to 10 points) in a one-hour lunch break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus (having just now skimmed the wikipedia page), there are apparently variations for 6 or 8 players if you need to support more people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T02:41:51.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-05T02:48:58.540" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluxx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another card game that's really simple to set up.  I find that I play better when I'm not fully paying attention - always a consideration when food is involved.  It theoretically supports as many people as you want (the wiki page says 2-6, but I've played many games with more).  You should be able to complete somewhere between 0 and 12 games in a one-hour lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T02:48:58.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-12-05T03:44:58.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes an attack card such as Thief or Spy can trigger a reshuffle.  In these cases, you would usually not want to put stash on top of your deck because it would get hit immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="519" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T03:44:58.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1662" CreationDate="2010-12-05T06:59:10.637" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is really an answer to a broader question, but I think a fair way to break down the various Dominion boxes would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Base:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build a powerful deck. Stack actions, and build up to buying Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Intrigue:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the rules of the game. Swap cards. Make cards cost less than normal. Make Coppers worth more. Victory cards double as actions or treasures. Play the same card with results of your choosing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Seaside:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions that affect the game beyond the turn on which they're played. Duration cards are a clear example of this, but Island, Pirate Ship and Native Village follow the same pattern. Treasure Map also forces you to plan a bit, and Smugglers even look back a turn. Treasury introduces the idea of putting a card you played back on top of your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Alchemy:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions! Six of the ten action cards introduced have +actions, and Golem also leads to more action stacking. Of course the dependence on the Potion treasure card is significant, and Possession is arguably one of the most powerful and confusing cards in the game. I'd say Alchemy also focuses a bit on general manipulation of your deck, with plenty of opportunity to trash bad cards, and return good ones to the top of your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Prosperity:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amplification, treasures that do stuff and Victory tokens. If you count Colony and Platinum, seven (The others I counted were Expand, King's Court, Grand Market, Worker's Village and Goons) of the 27 new cards are basically bigger, better versions of cards from the base set. Eight of the new cards are Treasures with fine print. Forge helps you turn lesser cards into more powerful ones. Even the reaction card costs more than two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T06:59:10.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1687" CreationDate="2010-12-05T10:23:25.017" Score="22" ViewCount="54735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought Pandemic, and really liked the game. But since the basic game is only 2-4 players, I ordered the expansion &quot;On the Brink&quot;, which brings it up to 5 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rules variant that would let me play with 6 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="478" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:10:10.430" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T07:49:37.930" Title="How can I play Pandemic with 6 players?" Tags="|house-rules|pandemic|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2010-12-05T13:35:50.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's one link to start you on your way: a &lt;a href=&quot;http://hem.passagen.se/kromange/srtcg/uwspoiler.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full text spoiler in PDF&lt;/a&gt; for the &quot;Underworld&quot; expansion, which was the only one released for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T13:35:50.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-05T14:02:13.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played Bang, Citadels, and Race for the Galaxy during our lunch break. Bang has the plus/minus of having people get removed from the game before the game ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T14:02:13.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1685" CreationDate="2010-12-05T22:02:06.160" Score="22" ViewCount="2605" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a long running debate with some folks I play with regarding concession. Some argue that is it is unsportsmanlike to concede a game if you are not doing very well. I contend however, that if it often more frustrating to sit there and be miserable if you know the outcome of the game; this is particularly true of longer games such as Catan with Cities and Knights. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm not really talking about &quot;just quitting&quot; every time you don't get your way. And I'm certainly not talking about being rude, snide or otherwise contemptible in such cases. I've been on the other side of the fence too and it seem appropriate to &quot;just call it&quot; in many instances but some would rather drag it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an acceptable middle ground or technique for dealing with these types of situations? Where one person has clearly won before they have &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; won?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T23:20:36.420" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T20:24:30.413" Title="Is it unsportsmanlike to concede when you believe you cannot win?" Tags="|catan|etiquette|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-05T22:09:03.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played a lot of Wizard, the card game. A full game (one card up to ten, then back down again) is sometimes a little too long, but its easy to shorten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T22:09:03.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-05T22:11:15.960" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion is a great game for lunch. It's  the only strategy game I can think of with a playtime under a half hour. We can often get through two rounds during lunch at my office.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-12-05T22:11:15.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2010-12-05T22:25:00.703" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a two-player situation I could see how this might be acceptable, but with more players I'd be very cautious. For instance, it may appear to you that player three is the foregone winner, but perhaps player two has a victory Development Card, along with a Road Building that could catapult him to longest road, if he can just get another brick to make one more road along with it. Let's imagine this would steal the longest road from player three, and result in the players being tied neck and neck. To you, it may look hopeless, but for player two to refute your assertion that such is the case, he will have to reveal that he sees a path to winning, which could cause player three to be more cautious, resulting in the spoiling of player two's plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I played I won, and was ahead the entire time, and yet until the very end at least two of the other players (six-player game) had a fighting chance, one unbeknownst to me (two victory points from Dev cards conveniently left in his lap). It's not fair to the other players for you to decide it's time to call it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: It's been awhile since I posted this, and I've played a lot more head-to-head games since. I think it should always be acceptable to concede in a head-to-head game. However, it can also be really fun as the player with the clear lead to actually play out whatever super cool plan you had. So, outside of tournament scenarios where time may be a limitation, I usually play it out even when I'm clearly losing. If I do want to quit and move on in a casual setting, I might say something like, &amp;quot;You've got this one, I concede, but we can play it out if you prefer.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T20:24:30.413" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T20:24:30.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-05T22:36:52.910" Score="16" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the different merits of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khet_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Khet&lt;/a&gt; opening set-ups - Classic, Imhotep &amp;amp; Dynasty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T13:46:53.020" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T20:58:35.950" Title="Khet opening set-ups" Tags="|openings|khet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2010-12-06T00:36:03.233" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen recommendations for six-player, but I can't think of a reason it can't be done. I think the only thing that needs to be decided is the size of the players' starting hands. 4 and 5-player games start with two cards. You could either go with two or drop it to one. I'd probably stick with two. Beyond that I think you can just play. There's nothing in the game that will break by having six people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'm not sure how well it will play. The consensus is that the game gets harder with more people, but fortunately it's very easy to tweak the difficulty in Pandemic. You can decrease the number of Epidemic cards, increase the Special Event cards, or allow players to choose their role, each of these will make the game easier to beat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were going to try it, I'd probably go with two cards for the starting hands, four epidemic cards, and I'd put all 13 Special Event cards in. I'd see how that goes and then tweak it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T00:36:03.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1694" CreationDate="2010-12-06T01:27:40.757" Score="27" ViewCount="6023" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say the bio-terrorist challenge is for three and four player games and is explicitly not recommended for five players. Why is that? If it's a difficulty issue, couldn't the number of Epidemic cards be adjusted to compensate? As easy as it is to tweak the difficulty of Pandemic, it's hard to imagine there isn't some way to get it to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? Is there some reason it just can't work? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2010-12-07T06:16:30.080" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T06:16:30.080" Title="Why is Pandemic's Bio-terrorist Challenge not recommended with five players?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2010-12-06T03:13:47.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would rather a player concede than that they make plays that are not in their best interest and thus play &quot;kingmaker&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Catan lately so this may or may not be applicable there, but I personally would rather someone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep striving to improve their own score OR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop playing entirely and let the rest of us finish the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than see them purposely cause the game to end early in a way that doesn't help them, or make unfavorable trades just to entertain themselves (which will favor whoever is the lucky recipient).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all players think the winner is clear, I've occasionally had my group just start a new game, but that's rare and usually only done with the approval of the &quot;winning&quot; player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T03:13:47.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2010-12-06T08:06:10.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Andrew raised some very good point on which I'd like to elaborate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like the idea of declaring yourself the winner. In most games it is unlikely that you can do this with reasonable certainty. Thus it is presumptuous and - like Andrew explained - potentially unfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do however see some use in conceding a game under certain circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tournament play - Lots of CCG's play 3 games per round with a time limit of 20/30 minutes. In such situations it can be preferable to concede a bad game early in order to ensure you have enough time for that 2nd or 3rd game in which you might at least even the score.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In games without termination mechanisms - like Monopoly - it is possible that the last two players develop a sort of stalemate even though one player does have an obvious advantage in assets. Instead of playing until the table rots away one player could simply concede the game - or they could agree to end the game at a defined moment (X more turns, next full hour, etc) and simply call the player with the most assets the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a player has accumulated such a big disadvantage that it is highly unlikely for him to recover. When the remainder of the game is short I'd still recommend playing it out but if there are still an hour to play then I can understand why they don't want to go through that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in multiplayer games one player conceding can have a serious impact on the dynamics of the game so it is often worth exploring other options like playing for second and third place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T08:06:10.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2604" CreationDate="2010-12-06T11:04:14.287" Score="19" ViewCount="2088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´m hooked on Carcassonne but feel that after you learned the basic tactics it is mostly a game of luck. This has me wondering, when designing board games how would one go about calculating the luck factor? Are there any known good methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="524" LastEditorUserId="524" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T11:59:32.687" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T02:01:21.313" Title="Calculating luck as a factor in board games?" Tags="|luck|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-06T16:03:34.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Traitor/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Are You the Traitor&lt;/a&gt;?  No setup to speak of, socially dynamic, and the play is rapid paced and doesn't require careful tracking of past events/actions/state (a plus when people are distracted by food).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T16:03:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1688" CreationDate="2010-12-06T16:34:46.100" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question! Amazingly enough, there's a definitive answer. The reason is described in detail in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/477223/bio-terrorist-variant-etiquette&quot;&gt;board game geek thread&lt;/a&gt;, where game designer Tom Lehmann explains that playtesting showed the game became too long and boring with 5 players. Basically the game becomes 50% longer, and there are large gaps where individual players don't get to do anything. The detailed analysis he provides is quite interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T16:34:46.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2010-12-06T16:56:37.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played with bribing allowed in several groups, and I've found it adds strategic depth and increases liquidity for trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because players in my groups always keep deals, we've actually commoditized protection -- a player often sells the right to be left-alone the next time he moves the robber, a right we call a &quot;Not-Hit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't worth a full resource card, so it's usually used to sweeten some borderline deal. For example, if I'm selling my sheep to someone who has a rock, a wheat, and a brick, I might request he give me a single Not-Hit in addition to the brick, lest I help make a Knight that will harm me later. Or I might simply offer a Not-Hit for a single use of someone's 3-1 port, which ordinarily isn't worth a whole card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often players are willing to accept a Not-Hit as a bribe, at least from 1-2 opponents, so fewer real resource cards trade hands than you might expect. We also sometimes perform coerced trades -- I agree not to rob you, but you have to trade your valuable brick for my worthless stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late-game, it's so valuable to rob the winning player that bribes simply don't happen. It's important enough to slow down the winner that the robber isn't a credible threat to the losing players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On balance:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My groups play with resource-cards face-up*, which strengthens the robber as you know whom you're going to target, but despite that we find bribes make Development cards much less variable in value. Monopoly, Road Building, and Year of Plenty all just-about pay for themselves (if not more-so), but without bribes, Knights aren't so great, despite letting you chase Largest Army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our games, playing a Knight usually gets you 0-2 crummy spare resource cards and 1-2 Not-Hits, plus 1 random resource card. In a certain sense, it's a hybrid between a Year of Plenty and a VP card (as it chases Largest Army), making it about even with the rest of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main harm in having bribes is that rolling a 7 is luckier. However, this isn't much worse than the standard variability in the game -- some rolls generally help certain players much more than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The robber takes a random card from the face-up hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2010-12-06T22:09:27.577" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T22:09:27.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2010-12-06T18:02:38.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on the game.  Certainly for games that involve rolling dice, the probability of certain events happening can be easily calculated.  For games where dice are thrown or cards or drawn, there are some games where some outcomes can really change the flow of the game.  There are also games where random events actually have minimal affect on the outcome of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly has a strong aspect of how luck factors into the game.  Where you pieces land, makes or breaks the game for you.  In Settlers of Catan, luck exists, but good players do their best to maximize their odds so the luck of the dice is less of a factor for them.  Chess, is completely a game of skill, there is no random factors are all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For games that combine luck and skill, experienced players make moves that are likely to benefit them the most.  Thus, their skill helps them depend less on luck to win.  That doesn't mean bad luck still can't keep them from winning.  You have to analyze how randomness created by dice or card drawing helps or hinders players when designing the game in order to determine how much luck affects the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are books on the subject of game design you can look into and an entire &lt;a href=&quot;http://edweb.sdsu.edu/courses/edtec670/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;course on the subject matter at one university&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some books I've seen on the subject are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0615218288&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Art of Game Design: A Deck of Lenses&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/158450580X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Challenges for Game Designers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1932111972&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Theory of Fun for Game Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="2664" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T02:01:21.313" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T02:01:21.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-06T19:01:55.987" Score="24" ViewCount="3083" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players in my Catan groups never reneg on deals, so we have a number of common contracts. For example, we often sell each other a &quot;Not-Hit,&quot; the right to be avoided the next time the seller gets to move the robber. We also often sell future cards -- I give you my wheat now in exchange for your next two rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took us a while to commoditize these now-ordinary contracts, though. What are other common contracts people use in Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T16:30:44.403" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T22:20:23.467" Title="What are common contracts in Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|trading|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2010-12-06T19:20:54.800" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;We don't use contracts with the group of friends I play Catan with.  While it's an interesting idea, trading resources for nothing in return during the trade is explicitly against the rules of the game.  Also, the player who's turn it is has to be involved in all trades being made during that turn.  So, a player giving resources to a player they promised them to previously would break two rules in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could have some of same problems as allows players to bribe off the robber if players start trying to extort resources from each other..  It would be easy to abuse, and adds complexity in the game since you would have to track contracts.  Players would have to be to surrender the resources promised when they generated them in order for this to work.  I personally don't think the added complexity would make the game better.  It would certainly deepen the trading aspect of the game though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those not familiar with the topic of bribing off the robber, we discussed this previously in, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/700/is-bribing-off-the-robber-a-good-addition-to-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;Is bribing off the robber a good addition to Settlers of Catan?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T19:32:41.000" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1701" CreationDate="2010-12-06T20:06:55.313" Score="19" ViewCount="7665" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose I play a King's Court on a Lighthouse. Do I get +$3 now and +$3 next turn? +$3 now and +$1 next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:46:31.600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T20:36:35.960" Title="In Dominion, how do Duration cards interact with King's Court / Throne Room?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1700" CreationDate="2010-12-06T20:24:21.780" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You get $3 now, and next turn as well.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seaside rules&lt;/a&gt; contain this blurb on page 4 that clarifies most such situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you play or modify a Duration card with another card, that other card also stays in your play area until it is no longer doing&#xA;  anything. For example if you play Throne Room on Merchant&#xA;  Ship, both cards stay in play until the Clean-up phase of your next&#xA;  turn. The Throne Room stays in play to remind you that you are&#xA;  getting the effect of Merchant Ship twice on that next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some individual exceptions for some of the more unusual effects. Throne Room can't overcome Outpost's &lt;code&gt;This can’t cause you to take more&#xA;than two consecutive turns&lt;/code&gt; clause, and you can't Throne Room a Tactician:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Because you must discard at&#xA;  least one card in order to gain the bonuses from Tactician, it is&#xA;  not possible to Throne Room a Tactician to get + 10 cards, +2&#xA;  Buys, and + 2 Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, bottom line, &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; Duration effects are simply doubled, but any time a combination with Throne Room starts getting confusing, it's best to check the rulebook - these situations are usually explicitly addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3472" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T20:35:52.617" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T20:35:52.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-06T23:05:24.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For two players, we have played Dominion - with and without an expansion.  We have also played some of the Gipf project games, although they are only two player and both people will need to stay focused to finish the game.  Short setup time and quick teardown mean most of the time can be spent playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options are more &quot;traditional&quot; games - I saw Euchre recommended.  Shanghai/Hollywood rummy (or any of the rummies) can be played usually in under an hour, and because they have &quot;hands&quot;, you can play over a few days if necessary.  Also, since it is just shuffling to setup, it is a quick setup.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:05:24.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-06T23:06:40.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My co-workers and I regularly play Magic over our lunch break. Setup time is minimal, and the game scales well from 2-6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 4-6 players, we often have time for two games; with 2-3 players, three or four games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having 10 people play at once might make the game run too long, though. In that case, I'd recommend splitting everyone up into two groups of 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:06:40.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-12-06T23:29:54.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Word games would be great for this, especially &lt;strong&gt;Bananagrams&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Boggle&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play against yourself to improve your fastest time in Bananagrams or your highest score in Boggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:29:54.123" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2010-12-06T23:30:29.177" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;A reasonable empirical measure of luck is the probability that the best player can beat a good player in a given game.  So if you can get data about a large player population (I have done this with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rftgstats.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt;), you can get an implicit measure by looking at the Elo rating difference at various skill percentiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, this only tells you about the amount of luck in the game as a whole, not in a particular game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2010-12-06T23:30:29.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1708" CreationDate="2010-12-07T01:16:53.073" Score="25" ViewCount="42949" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played one game of Small World.  I thoroughly enjoyed it, despite losing badly.  For one, I had no game plan, and was sort of just trying things randomly.  Is there an effective, yet basic, strategy I can use next time to at least play with a sense of purpose?  At the risk of asking too many questions at once...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I always spend coins to get a race with more troops?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do I know when to decline an active race?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a good VP target to earn per turn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T22:23:16.627" Title="What's an effective Small World strategy for new players?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2010-12-07T03:28:57.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should I always spend coins to get a race with more troops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  Those are victory points!  Spend them wisely and be eager to grab VPs that other folks put down.  Most race/power tokens can be useful if used correctly.  Just figure out how you get extra VPs with the combo and keep focused on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do I know when to decline an active race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to know is when your previously declined race has been wiped out or has been reduced to 1-2 territories that look like they won't last long.  I believe that you need to earn VPs from declined empires as often as you can.  It is better to decline too early, than too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a good VP target to earn per turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 more than everyone else? :)  Sorry, I can't give a definitive answer here as most of my &lt;strong&gt;Small World&lt;/strong&gt; experience actually comes from the game's predecessor &lt;strong&gt;Vinci&lt;/strong&gt;.  Always try to get a few VP's per turn, this fits with my &quot;Decline early and often&quot; strategy.  Then make the most of your big turns.  Know who is your competition at any point and be sure to take a territory or two from them each turn if at all possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T03:28:57.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2010-12-07T03:53:58.070" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are just some general suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go for numbers early. When&#xA;the map is still mostly empty, it&#xA;seems like quantity of troops is&#xA;slightly more valuable than quality.&#xA;I'm willing to give up a coin or two&#xA;on the first round to get a few more&#xA;troops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to abandon all&#xA;regions and relocate all your troops.&#xA;Sometimes this is a very good thing&#xA;to do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to place troops on mountains&#xA;before declining. They'll hold out a&#xA;little longer there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decline early to get two races working for you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a simple strategy that may work reasonably well is to start with a race that has a high number of troops, deploy those into as many mountainous regions as possible, and then decline on turn two. So on turn three you will already have two races working for you. I'm not saying it's a great strategy, but it's not a bad place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that you need to play off the powers you have. The powers and races you get make a big difference in what would be a good strategy and what would be a bad one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T03:53:58.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2010-12-07T10:48:23.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/980/al-cabohne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Al Cabohne&lt;/a&gt; (a Bohnanza-spin-off) has a single player option. In that case you draw random cards for your opponents (the bean mafia). Works quite well in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I know some riddle-games, there you solve crimes or similar things. You given some hints and place markers on the grid to represent encounters. That's more like a puzzle than a game though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T10:48:23.197" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-09T19:22:50.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-07T14:17:45.630" Score="10" ViewCount="6938" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trading is in my opinion often an overlooked aspect of rules for board games. The lack of such rules often results in players modifying or making up these rules themselves. While making up the rules can be part of the fun I was wondering if you know of any games that already have good such rules/mechanisms? Any examples of games that make trading and the interaction between multiple players when doing so an interesting part of the gameplay would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="524" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:28:30.200" Title="Examples of board games with good/interesting rules for trading?" Tags="|trading|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-03-05T02:53:38.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2010-12-07T19:45:08.543" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I'm discovering about Small World (especially in games with smaller number of players) is that it's &lt;em&gt;not inherently balanced&lt;/em&gt; - your opponents can easily snap up amazing race/ability combos for cheap, leaving you with much less attractive options, just by random virtue of the seating order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you simply have to play a competitive game.  Don't just look at your race/ability combo in isolation: look at it also in terms of how much it can do to hamper the efforts of the player currently winning the game (or the player most likely to stop you from winning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring special circumstances, you will generally have two races on the go at once: one Declined race in as defensible a position as possible, and one Active race doing things.  The Active race has a lot of work to do: it needs to take lots of territory (to get points here and now); take defensible territory (to keep getting points while in decline); and also, crucially, mess with the opponents: oust them from defensible areas and force them to go into Decline at points that are disadvantageous to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I'd agree with everything the other answers have said about this being a game about adapting to circumstances - Small World is nothing if not a game of taking advantage of opportunities as they arise - but I'd add that it's not a game you can play without reference to how well the other players are doing.  If they have some good race/power combos going, then grab an aggressive race, get in there and do them over, as quickly as possible!  Defensive powers and play is all very well, but save it for when you're obviously in the lead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T19:45:08.543" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-07T20:18:51.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khet_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Khet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's for two players only, but most games only take 30 mins or so and the rules can easily be picked up in 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T20:18:51.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-12-07T21:05:50.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a lot of Expands, it can be good to distribute them evenly in your deck so that you guarantee each hand has at least one 5-cost card you can turn into a Province. Granted, this is a pretty rare case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T21:05:50.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-12-07T21:25:58.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Container_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;h1&gt;Container&lt;/h1&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my favourite trading type games is Container. The idea of container is that a person has a number of elements to their island. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A group of factories &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A group of warehouses &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting mechanic of this game is that a player must produce items in their factory and sell them to an opposing player. They CANNOT sell to their own warehouses.&#xA;The opposing player then stores those goods in their warehouses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An opposing player can then visit the port to purchase the goods from the warehouse, to then ship to &quot;the island&quot; in their container ship. A player CANNOT visit their own port to purchase goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player must set their own prices for goods in the factory and goods in the warehouse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the player ships to the island, a blind auction takes place to see who purchases the goods. A player can choose to purchase them for themselves for the maximum bid, or choose to take the max bid in cash, plus a matched amount from the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each good is worth more at the end of the game to different players based on a random card drawn at the start, which makes the bidding process very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love this game because you need to work with other players to beat them, its an odd feeling to sell cheap, so that you can buy back your own goods, but you are all competing in a real market situation with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T21:25:58.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1426" CreationDate="2010-12-07T22:10:34.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy Blog&lt;/a&gt; has a nice post about leveraging &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/2010/12/01/combo-of-the-day-17-chancellorstash/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chancellor and Stash&lt;/a&gt; together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T22:10:34.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1668" CreationDate="2010-12-07T23:25:12.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; what I'm looking for (I was preferring some sort of spreadsheet or document), but a software program called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolflair.com/index.php?context=card_vault&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Card Vault&lt;/a&gt; (which allows you to create deck lists for games) has a Shadowrun module which can be downloaded &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolflair.com/rightframe.php?context=card_vault&amp;amp;page=supplemental_downloads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program allows you to download small images of the cards, and has spoilers for the core set, 2nd print, Underworld expansion, plus promos.  I've seen a few typos, and some incorrect rarities, but the overall it's pretty solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might make an Excel spreadsheet and/or XML and/or Word document spoiler based on this, and if I do, I'll update the answer here with a link here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-12-07T23:25:12.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-12-08T04:31:44.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Settlers_of_catan&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; is a classic game with trading elements.  Each player needs to build roads and buildings with various resources (wheat, clay, ore, sheep, wood), but most players will have scarcity in one or more of the resources needed; thus, they must trade resources with other players to be able to complete purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is that you need all of the resources, at some points, to win the game.  There is no strategy where you can get by on just three or four of the five, so you must trade often to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times you will see resources traded at uneven ratios.  A few groups add more advanced sorts of trading, such as futures, but those are not allowed in the basic rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T04:31:44.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2010-12-08T04:37:25.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common contract for those I play with is what instigated my question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/700/is-bribing-off-the-robber-a-good-addition-to-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;Bribing Off the Robber&lt;/a&gt; (noted by ICodeForCoffee).  This is similar to your Not-Hit contract, but with more immediacy.  It sounds like all of your contracts are futures tradings.  Our play would be loose enough to allow for such a thing and also has the keep a contract virtue, but I'm not sure we would be willing to risk future cards.  It would be interesting to see what happens if this were set up explicitly at the start of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T04:37:25.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-08T07:24:57.843" Score="3" ViewCount="6562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to play against other people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can't seem to find any sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="459" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T00:19:49.290" Title="Where can I play Hearts online?" Tags="|online|hearts|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-11-10T13:45:43.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1719" CreationDate="2010-12-08T09:46:58.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.play.yahoo.com/games/login?game=Hearts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yahoo! Games&lt;/a&gt; has Hearts. Actually I originally signed up for a Yahoo account so I could play Hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="398" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T09:46:58.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-12-08T12:04:53.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12493/twilight-imperium-third-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twilight Imperium&lt;/a&gt; has an interesting trade mechanic: Each player has two 'trade contract' cards (varying from 1-3 in value).  When a trade phase happens (which in TI3 is a player decision) you gain goods equal to the value of &lt;em&gt;other players'&lt;/em&gt; contract cards you're holding.  Then you can trade your contracts to other players.  (This sequence means you don't start to profit until the turn after you made the trade.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all races have equal contracts - trade-oriented races might have a 2 and a 3, while warlike ones have two 1s - so bargaining power is uneven.  But as an alternative to hosting a trade phase, a player can take the 'trade phase' order and use it to cancel all existing contracts... and a player who is the only one not profiting from trade will be tempted to do so, setting all the traders back by two turns while they reestablish profitable deals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contracts can be broken unilaterally at pretty much any time.  Going to war automatically breaks them.  So good trade deals can discourage conquest.  It's a nice interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T12:04:53.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1719" CreationDate="2010-12-08T18:03:36.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play mostly Bridge and occasionally Hearts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pogo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pogo.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Again it's a site that's been around for many years, though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T13:47:00.587" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T13:47:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-08T18:04:20.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to enjoy The Queen's Necklace &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6068/queens-necklace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;sup&gt;BGG&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. It provides an interesting and variable play experience in about 45 minutes. You can play it online to try it out, too. Check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/play/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder&lt;/a&gt; site. I think there's a link from the BGG page. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T18:04:20.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1706" CreationDate="2010-12-08T22:23:16.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of troops is really important. Until the endgame, don't fret too much about how many coins you're spending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should have have 2-3 races over the course of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target 8-11 points per turn once things get going. Overextending yourself is dangerous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarves deserve special mention: they are terrible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first race should try to spread to mountains, say 3 mountains and 1-2 non-mountains, then go into decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A bit on mountains:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountains are valuable for in-decline races because they make it much less desirable for someone else to interfere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if an opponent has 4 troops to spare and already has a race in decline, she's better-off conquering 2 open non-mountain regions than conquering your single mountain region, even if you're winning. She closes the gap with you by 2 territories either way, but she gets more coins versus her peers if she leaves you alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-12-08T22:23:16.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2010-12-09T15:03:46.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was in university we played many, many games using such contracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't use markers for the contracts except in a few extremely complicated cases, and we probably contracted just about everything, including robber placement, futures markets, and building patterns, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;I'll give you a wheat to not put the robber on me.&quot; &quot;Oh yeah, I'll give you a wheat and a wood to put it on him!&quot;, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;I'll build my settlement here (leaving you the third space on this lucrative tile), if you don't cut off my road over there.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When we played with Cities and Knights, lots of resources got tossed around by people try to cause or avoid the barbarian invasion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did retain the rule you could only trade on your turn, so you had to wait for either person's turn to finish the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also, rarely, reneged on contracts. The most common reason for reneging was that you could win that turn if you didn't honor it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user503" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T15:03:46.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-09T16:03:49.957" Score="13" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both standard Catan and Catan Seafarer, thinking about buying the player extension to expand both games to 5-6 players. If I only buy the Seafarer's player extension, can I also use it onto my standard Catan to play with 5-6 players? Or do I have to buy the 5-6 player extension for each game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Grace" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:09:18.780" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:09:18.780" Title="Catan and Seafarers 5-6 player expansion" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1726" CreationDate="2010-12-09T16:34:43.527" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need both player extensions in order to play with 5-6 players on Seafarers.  The Seafarers 5-6 player extension doesn't contain the pieces needed for the extra players.  You'll need the frame pieces, extra titles, houses, roads and cities from the regular Catan 5-6 player extension in order to play Seafarers with 5-6 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2010-12-10T03:46:01.913" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T03:46:01.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2010-12-09T18:05:03.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend buying a second copy of Pandemic and just playing seperate 3-player games.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T18:05:03.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2010-12-09T23:03:31.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back to the root of your question, one way I've found to diminish the role of luck in Carcassonne is to have all players draw a &quot;hand&quot; of tiles (3 to 5 seems to work well), and then on each turn you draw a tile and then play any tile from your hand. When there are no more tiles to draw at the end of the game, you just play one of the tiles from your hand until everyone has played all of their tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luck will still play a part, but this gives the players a little more control over which tile they play at a given time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other variants that affect the luck factor in Carcassonne are to deal out &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the tiles at the beginning of the game, play with the remaining tiles face up so you can choose exactly the tile you want as long as it's still available, or begin the game with a &quot;draft&quot; where you pick the tiles you want to have during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="320" LastActivityDate="2010-12-09T23:03:31.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1461" CreationDate="2010-12-10T08:36:58.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game there are several harbors. Each harbor sells one of seven goods. And each harbor can buy 2, 4 or 6 goods (as long as there are no duplicates and they won't buy their own goods). The sold goods stay there until the end of the game. So goods can become rare quickly. And ironically, the easy goods are depleted first. So you need to focus on them first. Because you need them all to fill the 6 point harbors (not surprisingly the home harbors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that does not mean you can mostly ignore the rare goods. Because if your opponent has a monopoly in one good he can determine the price, and that can seriously cripple you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reccommend to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;send ships out with 2 or 3 goods to get the most common goods to fill your home harbor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy new ships as soon as possible (need some goods in a harbor so think ahead).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to control at least 1 of the rare goods so you can negotiate prices with other owners. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in the end game, send some ships with 5 people around. To capture ships carrying the last goods and capture as many filled harbors (because they give you points in the end).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T08:36:58.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-10T16:07:00.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be too simple for an experienced group, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/74/apples-to-apples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt; is great for lunch breaks, particularly as you can add / remove people as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's dead simple, so it's easy to get new people involved, and the only real requirement is to have ~4 people.  I've played it with groups as large as 9 before ... 10 shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem I've run into with the games is that at my current place of work, there's a fair number of people who didn't grow up in the U.S. and aren't native english speakers, so some of the cultural references (mostly people) are difficult for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="143" LastEditDate="2010-12-10T22:18:04.783" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T22:18:04.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-10T18:12:31.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Treehouse&lt;/a&gt; - quick, pretty much as many players as you want, setup is easy, take down is easy. Not presently available from the manufacturer (Looney Labs) because they are changing their packaging, but you can probably still find sets in local game stores, or wait a bit for their new packaging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T18:12:31.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-10T22:14:26.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we go with the 'lunch' theme, although it only scales to 8 people with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/9665/lunch-money-sticks-and-stones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;expansion pack&lt;/a&gt; is the card game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/228/lunch-money&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lunch Money&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-12-10T22:14:26.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-12-11T10:31:44.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1345/genoa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Genoa&lt;/a&gt;, or as it was originally published, Traders of Genoa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a game where just about everything that anyone does involves making a deal with another player.  And everything in the game short of future promises can be part of the deal - wares, small orders, large orders, privileges, messages, extra-move tiles, everything.  It's a little daunting at first, because you don't always know how much everything's going to be worth at the end of the game and it's hard to cut tougher deals with the person in first place when you don't know who it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is by far the best negotiation game I've ever played, much better than Chinatown or Who's The Boss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T10:31:44.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-12-11T13:48:24.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always like that the rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/71/civilization&quot;&gt;Civilization&lt;/a&gt; seemed to encourage bluffing when trading -- you had to give them the number of cards you said you were going to, but you didn't have to be 100% truthful about what you were giving the other party.  (or maybe that was just the way our group played ... I don't have a copy, so can't verify the rules for trading)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-12-11T13:48:24.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="169" CreationDate="2010-12-11T15:11:11.167" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;sorry for the late answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following list might be useful to others:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.go4go.net/v2/modules/collection/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.go4go.net/v2/modules/collection/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://9-dan.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://9-dan.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gogameworld.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.gogameworld.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lifein19x19.com/gogames/database1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.lifein19x19.com/gogames/database1.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gokifu.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gokifu.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://baduk4all.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://baduk4all.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's enough to give you study material for a life :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastEditorDisplayName="user545" LastEditDate="2010-12-13T16:34:22.427" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T16:34:22.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1793" CreationDate="2010-12-11T17:48:49.303" Score="5" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player uses the Raider's Outpost by docking a 3-4-5 set of ships.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same player uses an Orbital Teleporter to move the 5 ship to another Orbital Facility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the 3 and 4 ships remain in the same position after the 5 is moved, or do they shift? What if the 3 or 4 were moved instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A higher value set of ships is required to use the Raider's Outpost when it is occupied. If the 5 ship had not been teleported, a 4-5-6 set would be required. However since the 5 ship has been moved, it's not clear what is now required to use the Raider's Outpost. Since it only has the 3-4 ships remaining, is a 3-4-5 set sufficient? Or is it played as if the 5 ship were still there, meaning a 4-5-6 set is required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T23:31:33.037" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T23:31:33.037" Title="In Alien Frontiers, how does Raider's Outpost work after a ship has been teleported to another Orbital Facility?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1745" CreationDate="2010-12-13T16:50:20.710" Score="21" ViewCount="14999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on some Terrain for Warmachine, and I am interested in making some water effects.  What is a good way to go about doing that?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on using Foam Core as the base of a lake, and some high-density insulation foam as the banks.  What is a good thing to use for the water portion?  I have heard that Woodland Scenics makes a product, but that is hardens as a Gel, and can be easily scarred from models.  Are there other resins that are easy to work with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T19:48:00.910" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T19:48:00.910" Title="What is a good way to make Water Effects in Terrain?" Tags="|modelling|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-13T18:17:19.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Race For The Galaxy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the default game for our group when under time constraints.  It's very complex for it's play time (20-45) minutes, often making you feel like you've played a game twice its actual length.  As such, it's also very rewarding.  Plus, there are multiple expansions if you wish to explore the game further, and they still keep the play time to under an hour.  The expansions also let the expand the number of players from 4 to eventually 6.  Because of the simultaneous turn mechanic, the game time is not usually lengthened by adding more players.  Just be warned that the first (learning) game will take much longer.  Our first game almost 2 hours, the very next game was 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="490" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T18:17:19.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1784" CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:00:18.863" Score="8" ViewCount="746" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have Novice Gerard in my hand early in the game, and quickly learn that player A has one Templar Novice crossed off and player B has one Templor Novice crossed off, I know I can eliminate all three Templar Novices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...However, if I learn early in the game that player A has one Templar Novice crossed off, and then learn &lt;em&gt;15 minutes later&lt;/em&gt; that player B also has one crossed off, I need to somehow deduce whether they have the same Novice eliminated, or two different ones.  It would be helpful if I could look at my sheet and determine how old my previous clue was, and whether or not these players have had the chance to share this information with each other or not.  (Obviously, this is a simplified example, but hopefully you get the point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a sheet covered in markings, it's easy to lose track of where and when I learned each piece of information, and this sometimes affects how I can interpret a new clue.  How do you go about tracking whether a clue on your sheet is &quot;stale&quot; or &quot;fresh&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:51:12.193" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:51:12.193" Title="Mystery of the Abbey - How to track clues over time?" Tags="|mystery-of-the-abbey|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1746" CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:05:22.760" Score="13" ViewCount="2217" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seem to be a lot of options when it comes to card sleeves.  What factors do I need to consider about different sizes, materials, and quality of sleeves when deciding which to purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much larger should the sleeves be compared to the cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What different materials are available, and how do they effect how well the cards are protected and shuffling?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What sleeves seem to be the best quality?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T03:45:47.830" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T03:45:47.830" Title="What factors should I consider when choosing card sleeves?" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2010-12-13T20:32:25.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sleeve the cards for my Card Driven Wargames, but be aware they never fit in the box right after that, and shuffling is way different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T20:32:25.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2010-12-13T22:42:58.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My teacher told me to learn hard to use weak opening, though it is risky. He said that most world best players use it. And he warned that it is often viewed as sort of &quot;heresy&quot; :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About British - he said that some of them use the following rule: open weak if non-vulnerable and strong if vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that strong NT opening is popular because it's not that risky. And I don't think it is purely American thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="556" LastActivityDate="2010-12-13T22:42:58.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2010-12-14T06:02:25.727" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint the base blue/green etc for the base, and then use a two part epoxy resin like  what is used for bar tops. If you want waves, let it dry for a little bit, and then tease up waves w/ a paintbrush w/ a little thinned white paint on it..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T06:02:25.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2010-12-14T14:23:38.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important aspect of sleeves is of course size. If the sleeves are to small then obviously your cards won't fit. But the sleeves being to big can also have a number of negative consequences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sleeves can get in the way during suffling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;harder to nicely stack the cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably most common are the sizes for the dimensions used in trading card games but there's also an increasing selection for board and cardgames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next on the list is thickness and rigidity. While thinner sleeves tend to be cheaper too they will also be a bit harder to shuffle and offer somewhat less protection. If you play on clean tables that's not an issue but rougher surfaces (i.e. outdoor) can wear through the thin sleeves faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally there are many designs to choose from - especially among the more common sizes used for ccg's. Anything from a clear plastic on both sides, over single colored backs to elaborate patters and themes can be found. Sleeves with simple opaque backs are favored in tournaments because they make it harder to mark cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a small addition I'd like to point out that shuffling with sleeved cards can be very different from what you are used to. Stripping can be difficult because some sleeves tend to cling to each other. Standard riffle shuffle is also harder because the sleeves do not grant the same fine control over the cards. Probably the easiest way to shuffle is by separating the deck in two stacks and pushing the corner of one stack into the side of the other. If the sleeves are sufficiently rigid it will be very easy to slide them together producing the equivalent of an almost perfect riffle shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T14:23:38.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1773" CreationDate="2010-12-14T16:29:11.383" Score="15" ViewCount="6714" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pandemic varies vastly in difficulty depending on the number of players. Does anyone know of any custom rules that make it more even?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="558" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T15:11:46.283" LastActivityDate="2021-07-11T23:35:41.010" Title="Do you know any rules that make Pandemic's difficulty more even?" Tags="|house-rules|pandemic|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2010-12-14T17:44:43.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allowing players to choose their roles, rather than having them assigned randomly, is one way to lower the difficulty. The players can choose roles that they prefer to work with and that have better synergy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T17:44:43.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1662" CreationDate="2010-12-14T18:39:06.123" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel like the biggest difference between the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Base&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Base&lt;/a&gt; set and &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Intrigue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Intrigue&lt;/a&gt; is that Intrigue focuses a lot more on action combos instead of big money with action augmentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Base game, action chaining is a great way to get the most out of your turn because it allows you to stack money and buys from action cards, as well as gets you a lot of draws to see a large percentage of your deck in a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in Intrigue, although action chaining still works, a lot of times you're better off using specific card combos instead of just &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=village&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Village&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=laboratory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laboratory&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=festival&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Festival&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=smithy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Smithy&lt;/a&gt;, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=scout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scout&lt;/a&gt; by itself is an okay card, but when you use it with the Dual-Type cards (&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=nobles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nobles&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=harem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harem&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=greathall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Hall&lt;/a&gt;) it becomes a great card.  The same goes for Scout + &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=wishingwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wishing Well&lt;/a&gt;.  Wishing Well is a shot in the dark usually, but if you use it in tandem with Scry cards (Scout or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=secretchamber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Secret Chamber&lt;/a&gt;), it becomes a Laboratory that only costs 3 Treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are a lot of other notable combos, and of course there are some usable combos in the Base set, but I feel that Intrigue really focused on using specific cards in tandem much more than the Base set did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="560" LastEditDate="2010-12-14T19:18:16.340" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T19:18:16.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-12-14T19:14:20.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of the Scout combos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrN56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kIXst.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrN56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmG0Y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrN56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jHyDb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrN56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NYuN4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CrN56.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MM4PJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="560" LastEditDate="2010-12-14T20:21:51.603" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T20:21:51.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1755" CreationDate="2010-12-14T19:28:25.207" Score="15" ViewCount="18390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any games with depth similar to Dominion or Puerto Rico that can be played with standard&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; playing cards? More than 1 deck is fine. A good answer should have &lt;strong&gt;plentiful, diverse opportunities for strategy and analysis&lt;/strong&gt;; flexibility in number of players, friendliness to new players, lack of empty spaces during the game-play, and general intensity are all a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1: 4 suits, 12 cards each&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2015-01-25T22:16:45.573" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T22:16:45.573" Title="Games that can be played with just normal playing cards that are engrossing enough for a hardcore gamer" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-08-21T06:17:35.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-14T20:05:15.673" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I generally enjoy &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trick-taking_game&quot;&gt;trick-taking games&lt;/a&gt; as they involve a bit more strategy than &quot;pick a card that's the same color&quot;.  Examples include Hearts, Spades, Pinochle, Oh Hell, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting elements to me are keeping track of what cards have been played, what order to play your cards in to achieve your goal, and trying to figure out your opponents' strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T20:05:15.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-14T20:23:54.537" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lacks in flexibility in number of players, and friendliness to new players, but it has a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of strategy once you get the hang of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T20:23:54.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1776" CreationDate="2010-12-14T21:24:12.033" Score="13" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tl5AD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Alchemist - +2 Cards, +1 Action; When you discard this from play, you may put this on top of your deck if you have a Potion in play.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who loves this card.  I know that every time it's on the table, he will load up on them, and chain long turns that take ages.  It's even more powerful when Scout and/or Apothecary are available, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I should be able to defeat this strategy by 1) beating him to it (which winds up being more of a luck thing), or 2) augmenting it with a particular card he may not have noticed on the table.  But to me, that makes all Alchemist games very monotonous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that sometimes an Alchemist deck is just the best strategy, but I also know that this shouldn't always be the case.  What are the weaknesses of this strategy?  Are there sorts of cards I should look for to play an alternate strategy that can still win out over an Alchemist-heavy deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T16:20:56.790" Title="Dominion - Defeating the Alchemist" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2010-12-14T21:39:45.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possession is great for making Alchemist fizzle. Attacks like Militia, Goons or Torturer would also help significantly, as would anything that would help you cram Curses, Estates and Coppers into his deck. If he's managing to get five Alchemists going, Masquerade could be fun, although by that time it may be too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T21:39:45.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1321" CreationDate="2010-12-14T23:06:56.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KWxRq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Golem&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h3l3X.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counting House&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when Golem fails to find two action card apart from other Golems? Your entire deck (minus your hand) is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when Golem finds one Counting House and nothing else?  Every single Copper in your deck comes into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy one Counting House, several Golems, and an extra Copper (or four, if you're going for Colonies), and you're guaranteed a Province every turn you have Golem and no Counting House in your hand.  It gets boring after a bit, but, man, is this combination fun to pull on your friends once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T23:06:56.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1779" CreationDate="2010-12-14T23:39:15.517" Score="8" ViewCount="9755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard there are a lot of different &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_trick-taking_games&quot;&gt;trick-taking games&lt;/a&gt; out there, such as whist, bridge, euchre, pinochle, oh hell, hearts etc. I've heard a lot of good things about these games, but have very little experience. A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's the easiest way to learn one's first trick-taking game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's a good trick-taking game to learn for someone who's never played one before? Which should beginners avoid?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How easy are new trick-taking games to pick up after one has gotten a good foundation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T13:09:16.233" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T13:09:16.233" Title="Getting started with trick-taking games (whist, euchre, bridge, pinochle, etc.)" Tags="|bridge|recommendations|teaching|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:28:32.793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2010-12-14T23:53:25.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Hearts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...is the easiest with which I'm familiar. I like Spades better, but it's a bit more complicated. A quick search will reveal many, many sites that allow you to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hearts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hearts&lt;/a&gt; online, and chances are good that your computer came with the game pre-installed, so you can play against a computer. I'd bet a six-year-old could learn it without too much struggle, and would be surprised if an eight-year-old couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2010-12-14T23:53:25.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1766" CreationDate="2010-12-15T00:27:56.347" Score="28" ViewCount="50443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game of Carcassonne last night with some friends, using amongst other expansions, the river.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their &quot;house rule&quot; was that both the river Source and Lake tiles do NOT wrap around: on each tile there was a corner that they designated a boundary between one pasture and the next.  I'm pretty sure that in my edition of the rules it specifies that these tiles DO wrap.  But I'm not a rules lawyer, I'm perfectly happy to play a variant, as long as it's clearly stated from the outset!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They had another rule for playing with the river, though, and in this case I realize I have no idea whether it's &quot;official&quot; or not: neither the Source or the Lake tiles counted as a &quot;turn&quot;, so in both cases no meeple could be placed, and the player whose turn it was drew another tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know for sure whether the Source and Lake tiles &quot;count&quot; for the purposes of taking a turn?  (I can't even remember whether the starting tile from the basic game &quot;counts&quot;, right now...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-20T14:34:06.677" LastActivityDate="2020-04-21T03:09:45.490" Title="What Are The Official Rules for Carcassonne: The River?" Tags="|carcassonne|carcassonne-river|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T01:42:49.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have three players, David Parlett's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davidparlett.co.uk/oricards/ninety9.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ninety-Nine&lt;/a&gt; is a terrific trick-taking game with an elegant gimmick:  the suits correspond to numbers, and you must declare how many tricks you intend to take each hand by secretly discarding three cards.  This makes figuring out &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; to bid what you want to bid almost as hard a problem as figuring out what your bid should be and how to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another unusual and ingenious game is Robert Abbott's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logicmazes.com/games/eleusis/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eleusis&lt;/a&gt;, one of the few real inductive-reasoning games.  (Zendo, which borrows liberally from Eleusis, is another.)  In this game, one player formulates a secret rule, and the other players ask questions, by playing cards, in order to determine what the rule is.  It can be really, really hard - a fairly easy rule to guess is &quot;red cards are only legal if played immediately after cards whose rank is even; black cards are only legal if played immediately after cards whose rank is odd.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T01:42:49.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1742" CreationDate="2010-12-15T01:53:51.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get polyurethane sleeves, not polypropylene.  The former are firm, strong, and have sharp edges that make them easy to shuffle simply by pressing two piles of cards together at their edges.  The latter are flimsy, floppy bags with cards inside them, and they're just as easy to manage as it sounds like they would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The brand I've used the longest is Ultra Pro, which manufactures card sleeves with opaque solid-color backs that are appropriate for just about any game that doesn't require you to see the backs of your cards (and is handy for those unfortunate CCGs whose card backs have changed over the years).  The only downsides to these are that they're not cheap, they tend to split with heavy usage over time (I can't tell if it's a function of age or not, though I bet it is), and every model I've seen has a little holographic dot on the front lower-left corner, which is less than ideal placement for games that use that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T01:53:51.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:30:10.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend who plays a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euchre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Euchre&lt;/a&gt;. He's a hard-core card player -- always has a deck in his pocket -- and this is his favorite game. I only played a few times with him, but it was lots of fun. There's a lot of strategy in trying to figure out which cards to play when, and in what order. You're playing with a teammate (across the table), so there's that aspect of the strategy too (since you can't really communicate with them without your opponents overhearing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He plays Sheepshead too (can't post the link 'cause I don't have enough reputation, it's on Wikipedia). I never played with him though, so I can't speak to it. I think it's similar to Euchre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="566" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T02:30:10.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1762" CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:32:24.667" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lance is right on the starting tile -- according to the rules (emphasis mine):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove the special starting tile from the game.  &lt;strong&gt;Instead, begin the game by laying the spring that starts the river.  Set aside the lake tile and shuffle the remaining 10 river tiles face down and draw from these before drawing from the tiles from the normal game.  These tiles are played and followers may be played as in the normal game&lt;/strong&gt; with one exception: a river tile may not be placed so that the river makes a &quot;U&quot; turn.  Followers may not be placed on rivers.  Once these 10 river tiles have been played, the next player plays the lake and then play continues with the normal tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to the Source and Lake, we've always played that they connect in all directions.  The following links seem to back this up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernjive.com/carcassonne/carcassonnetheriver.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF rules from ModernJive&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The statement from Hans im Glück is &quot;Officially, the farm goes around the spring. So it is a connected farm. I personally prefer to use it as a division, since otherwise, despite the river, there is still only one large farm.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/forum/index.php?topic=170&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Central&lt;/a&gt; is this (although the confirmation link in the thread is no longer valid):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, officially the farm does go around the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T02:32:24.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:45:04.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for speed and intensity, along with being beginner friendly, there are a lot of fast card games out there. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nertz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nertz&lt;/a&gt; allows for massive amounts of parallel play with each player playing from their own standard deck of cards and into the common area (easier if the cards have different backs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also dozens of variations of fast paced Uno type games that can be played with a regular deck of cards which are sped up by allowing for out of turn plays. Mao is an Uno variation where players are required to be silent during play, and the winner of each round creates a new unspoken rule which they can enforce by penalizing unwitting rule breakers with extra cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar fast paced game is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egyptian_Ratscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Egyptian Ratscrew&lt;/a&gt;, but elimination of players may not be as inclusive as desirable for a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="567" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T02:45:04.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T02:48:52.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Truco&lt;/a&gt; is very popular in Argentina, although it is played with a spanish deck. Playing 2 vs 2 or 3 vs 3 it is much better than 1 on 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="572" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T02:48:52.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:03:15.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egyptian_Ratscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Egyptian Ratscrew&lt;/a&gt; in high school, and I've never met a single person who didn't have a blast playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast paced, multi-player, and anyone can join or be eliminated, and even &quot;respawn&quot; by rejoining the game at random. excellent, exciting game :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="575" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T03:03:15.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T03:20:12.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card games with traditional decks of cards mostly fall into either trick-taking games (Whist-family games like Bridge, Pinochle, Euchre, Spades, or Hearts) and melding games (Rummy-family games like Gin, Go Fish, or Canasta). There are exceptions, but they are less well known and will likely not meet the accessibility criteria because of the learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In general&lt;/em&gt;, from my experience trick taking games are quicker to learn and play faster, and strategy is largely confined to individual hands (although your success in each hand will affect how you play the next). The king of trick-taking games is Bridge, and for the devoted student will be very rewarding, but learning the subtleties of bidding and play can be daunting, and expert play requires a partner that you have practiced with. Spades is more approachable to the beginner, has a fair amount of team strategy, and as has been noted has the potentially thrilling and aggressive play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melding games are equally varied in style, but in general tend &quot;feel&quot; longer and more strategic. My personal favorite is Canasta, popular enough in the 50s to challenge Bridge for the most popular four-handed game. Played with two decks of cards it has many strategic options around when to go out, what styles of melds to make, and taking the entire discard pile (risky, but potentially very lucrative!) On the other end of the spectrum is Cribbage, which is a fast-playing melding game which can be played either four- or (more commonly) two-handed. Not a lot of strategy across hands, and a fair amount of luck, but quick to learn and has some interesting strategic choices as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, you will not find games with traditional packs of cards to be as deeply strategic as a game like Dominion, simply because there is less variability in play, and early missteps are less likely to punish you in the end-game. If you want to find card-based games that are interesting yet approachable, I recommend looking at a number of custom card games such as Fluxx, Bottle Imp, Citadel, or Innovation (a new game for 2010 that's garnering a lot of praise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="578" LastEditorUserId="578" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T21:10:39.817" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T21:10:39.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T06:48:25.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I used to have a lot of fun playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://listing-index.ebay.com/games/Kimps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kimps&lt;/a&gt; on the bus - it is not a game of strategy, but of psychology.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are simple:  You play in pairs of two (usually for four people).  You each get four cards.  Then the dealer throws four cards on the table, and everyone trades cards from their hand for ones on the table, trying to make four-of-a-kind.  There are no turns - everyone just grabs whatever cards they want, as fast as they can.  When everyone is done with the cards on the table, they get discarded and four more are placed down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When someone finally gets four-of-a-kind, they have to get &lt;em&gt;their partner&lt;/em&gt; to say &quot;Kimps!&quot;  &lt;em&gt;(You are allowed to discuss signals ahead of time)&lt;/em&gt;.  If you believe someone on the other team has four-of-a-kind, you need to say &quot;Stop Kimps!&quot; before that person's partner can say &quot;Kimps.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone says &quot;Kimps&quot; and their partner has a four-of-a-kind (or they say &quot;Stop Kimps&quot; and either of the opponents has four-of-a-kind), that team wins.  If they're wrong, the other team wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The psychology comes from:  what cards did each person already pick up?  Are they actually collecting those cards, or are they trying to trick me?  How can I trick my opponents?  If someone is doing something suspicious, do they have Kimps, or are they trying to fool me?  You have to make this decision fast, because if you notice the signal, chances are their partner did too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T06:48:25.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T07:42:34.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We play a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheat_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheat&lt;/a&gt;. There's a fair amount of strategy that can go into it, but it's dead easy to learn. For 3-8 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="558" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T07:42:34.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2010-12-15T07:45:58.580" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could for example always play with the same amount of pawns. If you have 3 players everyone gets a pawn for themself and you have to discuss what happens with the 4th. Considering there's already a lot of discussion on what to do with your own pawns it's not going to be much of a problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T07:45:58.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1786" CreationDate="2010-12-15T08:34:12.460" Score="3" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a custom storage solution for my Dominion cards (to fit the expansions in the main box with the base set).  For part of this, I will need to cut some tabs similar to the ones in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/843042/dominion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this photo&lt;/a&gt;.  What weight of paper should I look for?  I assume the thicker the better, but if the best a store has is, say, 60# paper, should I hold out for something better at another place?  Are there other issues to consider with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:42:58.373" Title="Paper thickness (weight) to use for card tabs/dividers?" Tags="|dominion|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T10:29:45.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is another trick-game which hasn't been mentioned which I find very satisfying from a strategic point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Briscola chiamata, a 5-player variant of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Briscola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;briscola&lt;/a&gt;, has rules and a basic strategy easy enough to get started in 5 minutes, but the trump bidding makes the game unique, and the blind partnering mean you have to watch every move carefully, leaving no empty space and adding a “detective game”-like dimension.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(you don't really need a 40-card deck: you can just take a standard deck and take out the 8s, 9s, and 10s).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know the 5 player requirement is a bit tough, but it's worth it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I find myself with an odd number of friends (so we are 4 or 6 in total) I prefer instead to play Pinnacola. It is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rummy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rummy&lt;/a&gt;-derived game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You play it with two 52-cards decks, deal 13 cards to each player, then plays just like Rummy, with a number of differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teams of two, sitting alternating&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your melds are separated from the other team's&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sequences can 'loop', like this:  JQKA23&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can pick up already played jokers by substituting the card they are acting as.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The discard pile... is not a pile, but all the cards in it must be visible (they are put in a stripe). When you have to draw, you can draw a single card from the stock or pick up the last &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; cards provided you then play at least the nth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scoring: 100 points if you got out. Count points for your melds, subtract points for what you were left with, according to this: &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-5: 5 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6-10, J, Q, K: 10 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aces: 15 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jokers: 25 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-cards books doubles its value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6-cards (or longer) sequences &lt;em&gt;without a joker in it&lt;/em&gt; doubles its value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you manage to do a 13-card sequence (without jokers in it), it's called a Pinnacola, and you automatically won.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="583" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T10:29:45.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2010-12-15T15:30:00.763" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the short term, cards that make him discard cards are the best way to go.  Minion is the best because it makes him discard all of them:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUZUG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Minion Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards that help in the short term:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2PqdY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torturer&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NgvC9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Militia&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zsHbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goons&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(sadly, Ghost Ship does not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, there are several strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If Embargo is in play, Embargo Alchemist early on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uIpfN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Embargo Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Destroy his cards using Saboteur or Swindler.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZFLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Saboteur Card&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PrMHr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swindler Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Destroy or steal his money using Thief or Pirate Ship.  Note: These two cards will also flip his top two cards even if they aren't money.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3GwP3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thief Card&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ut1Sl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pirate Ship Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Give him Curses, or use Ambassador to give him unhelpful cards.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uKF6M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ambassador Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note: Each time he buys an Alchemist, he's buying another action card.  If he's buying action cards, he's not buying money cards.  As bad as it sounds, Alchemist-heavy can often be defeated by Big Money decks, even if they have 5 Alchemists in their hand (and thus essentially start with 10 cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;strong&gt;make sure&lt;/strong&gt; he isn't putting the Alchemists on top during turns he doesn't have a Potion in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;It's been a while, but one thing I noticed I forgot to mention when I answered this in 2010: Alchemist is only +1 Action, which means unless they have a +2 Action card somewhere, they only have one action at the end of the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T14:25:07.350" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T14:25:07.350" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T15:30:32.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whist, specifically, has always been my family's favorite.  Definitely plenty of strategy, plus massive differences between 2-person, 3-person and 4-person whist.  Highly recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with most of the other games listed is either there isn't enough strategy or they just plain aren't fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="588" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T15:30:32.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2010-12-15T15:46:19.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the 3-4 ships remain where they are after the 5 ship is removed, whether by the teleporter, or getting zapped by the Orbital Laser artifact, or whatever. Then a 3-4-5 set of ships will be sufficient to occupy the Outpost again, as a 3-4-5 straight is higher than a 3-4. The same would apply if the 3 or the 4 ship was removed; 3-4-5 still beats 3-5 or 4-5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="589" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T15:46:19.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2010-12-15T16:27:44.190" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spades.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Spades is the easiest starting point, because is (1) easy and (2) the point is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;winning&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; tricks, making it more consistent with the logic of other games. IMHO, spades shares more in common with the other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hearts has the reverse logic -- you are generally trying to LOSE tricks, not win them.  If you start with spades, you spend your time thinking about how to win tricks.  That means you can switch to Eucre or Bridge or Pitch or whatever...  Or you can learn hearts next.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades to Bridge --&gt; play is the same; add &quot;no trump&quot; and dummy hand; bidding more complicated &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades to Euchr --&gt; drop a bunch of cards from the deck, etc... but still  win tricks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades to Pitch --&gt;  multiple versions exist; typically a varient of spades  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades to Hearts --&gt; lose tricks, not win them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hearts to Bridge --&gt; more &quot;moving parts&quot;  than &quot;Spades to Bridge&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, once you know one trick taking game, it's somewhat trivial to learn the rules and basic play of one more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend you avoid Bridge as a first game. The bidding is really complicated. You can start having fun and start feeling competent much faster.  Pinochle is more complicated.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're only going to actually learn one game, I have to say that I find Hearts and Spades to be the most boring.   What makes a game better for beginners makes it worse for experienced players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="591" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:04:33.910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:04:33.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2010-12-15T17:11:40.053" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no bridge historian, but wouldn't the underlying answer have to do with the underlying  &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Path_dependence&quot;&gt;path dependence&lt;/a&gt;?&quot; This is a standard: Most people in Britain use weak 1 NT, so people in Britain first learn weak 1 NT. Conversely, most people in the US use strong 1 NT, so most people in USA first learn strong 1 NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main idea of path dependence is that there doesn't have to be some grand &quot;reason&quot; that a standard develops. A standard would only get undermined if it was radically inferior (e.g., people that play one system win &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; more often, ceteris paribus) . I'd guess that Truscott's book has some story... which gave a kernel of advantage to each system in different countries... which led to a &quot;lock in&quot; of each standard in each country. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not like the average player in the US plays often with people from Britain. And there's not this bias at the highest levels of bridge, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="591" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T20:01:06.330" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T20:01:06.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:09:14.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throughout college, my friends and I loved playing this 5-player variant of Rook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.georgejas.com/rook/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.georgejas.com/rook/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:09:14.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1442" CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:16:30.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The time does depend on # of players, as turns are sequential, yet total rounds is fairly constant.  I would say 30 minutes per player is a good average.  The game will change significantly with # of players, as it makes use of several first-come mechanics (limited board resource slots) and, of course, the voting mechanic.   4-5 players will be the closest in game-play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:16:30.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1193" CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:21:51.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened in my gaming group as well, we fixed it simply by having a remedy 'timer' which is once you've been stuck for 3 turns, any GO card would suffice to move again.  Likewise, if stopped for three turns, you could simply play mileage cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other variant we tried, which you might like is that remedy cards (and go cards) were played into a face-up draw stack, and instead of drawing normally, you could draw from any used card in the stack, so once someone had fixed their flat tire, anyone could spend the turn to draw the remedy the second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:21:51.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1741" CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:27:15.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do in games such as these is to make use of the directions my opponents face.  So, on the box for each monk, the player across from me will get the top-center of the box, while the player to my left gets the lower left of the box.  My notes will go in the appropriate location of the box for each player.  As for tracking the card movements, it's best to assume that knowledge is always shared, even if it wasn't, so the elimination note will pass from player A to player B anytime they exchange information.  This allows you to ask questions that you're SURE will leas to new information (if the question is answered as you hope), instead of possibly redundant information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:27:15.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:34:17.837" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest is probably to play Oh Hell, with the ascending variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone is dealt 1 card, and the trump is turned up.  Everyone decides if they're going to win that one trick or not.  Get good at that first, and the other games become much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:34:17.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1774" CreationDate="2010-12-15T20:42:58.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main consideration in my experience (many, many Magic cards) is that the thickness/weight of the paper doesn't matter as much as the stiffness and the smoothness of it.  you'll want something that slides out easily, so the cards can be retrieved without losing the divider in the box.  The stiffness is important because anything too flexible will tend to fray the tab portion.  Since dominion is a standard card size, I'd highly suggest plastic dividers, which can be obtained for as little as $0.10 each at various stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-15T20:42:58.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2010-12-16T02:01:41.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that if you wanted to do something simple to make the big meeple stand out, that doesn't cost a thing, juts make a house rule to play it on it's head or some other similarly different position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T02:01:41.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-16T02:34:16.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a new game from a new company that might fit the bill, except it's only for 4 players. The game is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DTSWI6?tag=httpwwwpearso-20&amp;amp;camp=213381&amp;amp;creative=390973&amp;amp;linkCode=as4&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B004DTSWI6&amp;amp;adid=1E65X7E59XWWQ60SNZ4H&amp;amp;&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Launch Pad&lt;/a&gt;, and the company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stratus Games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Launch pad is a simple quick strategy game that involves building rockets, and preventing others from building them. It's a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a game that would involve so many people, well, Bang is probably your best bet, and that's a really quick game. It works best with a lot of people, although it does have the disadvantage of having some people sit around with nothing to do for some time, as there are players eliminated early on in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T15:15:37.250" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T15:15:37.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1738" CreationDate="2010-12-16T05:15:48.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there has been official errata posted on this very question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bumping Ships from The Raiders' Outpost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A question has been raised about how the &amp;quot;Bump Rule&amp;quot; works for the Raiders' Outpost if one or more ships in the original run have been removed, either by the Plasma Cannon, the Orbital Teleporter, or by losing control of the Relic Ship. Does the new run have to be bigger than the original run or just bigger than the ship that are left over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the text from the rulebook...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Raiders’ Outpost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must dock a set of three sequentially numbered ships to use the Raiders’ Outpost. There are docking ports for one set of three ships. If the Raiders’ Outpost is occupied, you may dock a higher-value sequence here and move the original ships to the Maintenance Bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While docked at the Raiders’ Outpost you may steal a total of four resources from any mix of players or one alien tech card of your choice from one player. If you steal an alien tech card that you already have, the stolen card is discarded immediately and you gain no benefit from doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example : If a 1-2-3 is docked at the Raiders’ Outpost and the next player rolls a 2-3-4 then that player may remove the 1-2-3 and dock their 2-3-4 at the facility to conduct their own raid. If another player rolls a 3-4-5 or a 4-5-6 then they may remove the 2-3-4 and dock their own sequence and conduct their own raid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The addition of a second example should clear up this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 2: RED has docked a 3-4-5 at the Raiders' Outpost. On his turn GREEN uses the Plasma Cannon to send the 5 back to the Maintenance Bay, leaving a 3 and 4 on the Raiders' Outpost. To dock a higher-value sequence at the Raiders' Outpost GREEN must use a run of three ships that totals more than the sum of the ships currently docked there. The remaining ships total 7 so GREEN may not dock a 1-2-3 since they only total 6. GREEN may dock a 2-3-4 (total 9), a 3-4-5 (total 12) or a 4-5-6 (total 15) to use the Raiders' Outpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Errata can be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/572710/rule-book-errata&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T06:03:44.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2010-12-16T10:19:08.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider making the epidemic cards predictable.  Space them out as stated in the rules, but always put them at the bottom of each pile.  This keeps the fun of dealing with the challenge, while enhancing the requirement that players work together to handle what they know is coming.  It does make it easier though, in general, due to this predictability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T10:19:08.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-16T10:54:47.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have started playing Carcassonne during our lunch breaks. Generally lasts about 40-50 minutes including set up and tear down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="599" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T10:54:47.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-16T15:43:31.160" Score="6" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;What opening move should I prefer in Hansa Teutonica with 3, 4, or 5 players, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T02:23:47.023" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T08:28:04.770" Title="What is the best opening in Hansa Teutonica?" Tags="|openings|hansa-teutonica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-12-16T15:52:47.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the first player in a 4 or 5 player game, I like to play a merchant (disk) and a trader (cube), one on each road into the action city. In the crowd I play with, these roads are highly contended, so I will likely have 3 additional pieces on the board before my next turn. This will leave me in good position to become the third player to get a third action, or perhaps the first to improve the movement or refresh skill, or to get the &quot;remove 3 pieces&quot; bonus marker. In short, I find it maximizes my flexibility while getting additional pieces onto the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T19:11:37.783" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T19:11:37.783" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2010-12-16T16:09:17.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Keith that Spades would give the best introduction to the genre as a whole.  Hearts may be easy to learn, however it is counter intuitive compared to the rest of the games.  I have not played bridge, so I can't speak to that, however from my experience a good progression would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades - teaches bidding, fixed trump (always spades), and trick taking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Euchre - teaches rotating trump (highest bidder decides)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pitch - teaches tricks with different values and selective trick taking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pinochle (the king of card games IMO) - teaches meld as well as expounding on all the rest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as a good way to learn, either read the rules from a book or website to get the basics.  Although, the best way is to have it explained to you and play with someone who knows how to play.  A lot of these games are easier to learn by doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T16:09:17.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1800" CreationDate="2010-12-16T19:00:06.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While contending for the action city is a classic opening move, it by no means is the only way to go.  I recently won a 4 player game using the policy of non-competition, and worked on creating as big of a network as possible, as that has the most bonus.  In fact, I only gained one additional action the whole game, which balanced out because I didn't waste all those actions contending for the action city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go first, then this question makes some sense, but if you're not first player, the correct opening move will depending both on the other players' actions and their play-style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T19:00:06.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-16T22:27:43.273" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;So where i work we are between 5 and 8 depending on the days to play every lunchtime for around 1h. For now my impression are (Roughly sorted from best to worse but including only the good ones) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's one of the first game we played and still a hit in our group. There is a good level of strategy, medium amount of chance and great level of interaction between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the problem we had was the total time of the game that could vary a lot if you have players taking a long time to choose a character (There is a lot of strategy in this choice as if you are too greedy and so predictible you will either end dead or without any gold). We solved it by imposing a fixed 45s time to select a character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game need at least 5 players to begin being really fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25821/the-werewolves-of-millers-hollow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Werewolves of Miller's Hollow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always a big hit, it's easy to play, need nearly nothing (The cards could be contained in a pocket) each round is fast and being dead is as fun as being alive as you could see how good liars the others are... There is a big amount of strategy, small amound of randomness and very hight amount of interaction between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem of this game is that the number of players required for it to be fun is 8 and it require a non playing game master so our group is not often big enough to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11971/kakerlaken-poker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kaker Laken Poker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play it nearly every day after another game when we have time. It's a pure bluff, small amount of randomness, small amount of strategy, good amount of player interaction game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be played in 10-15min without problems even with 7 players (Even if the box say 6 max)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule that there is one losser and all the others win make it really interesting as every one try to attack the player that is losing, making him lose more xD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/30933/bang-the-bullet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bang!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the game we play the most even with it's problems as all players in our group like it and it became the default solution when game choice is too complex (due to one or two players refusing to play some other games this day)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is fun with lot of interaction between players, lot of randomness, and a moderate amount of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem of bang is it's randomness making some games very fast (Sherif with 4 life points near billy the kid with 4 bangs in hand being against him) and others very long. Also one player could die really fast and watch the other continue to play for a long time, witch is not fun at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the time to play on lunchtime you absolutely must get one of the extensions adding the one special rule per turn cards (Fistfull of cards or High Noon). As the number of extension cards is selected at start and the last one is fatal really fast for everyone it put an upper value to the number of turns possible. 8 cards for a 45min game with 6 players is a good bet for example. (6 players being one of the configuration that work the best)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link to boardgamegeek.com on the title point to the bullet that contain everything you may need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We currently played with only one green card authorized as otherwise it allow someone to protect himself too much and remove claus the saint from the game as it take too much time to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39856/dixit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dixit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for one of our player that doesn't have any immagination this game is really great and a lot of fun especially if you know the players you play with as you will tailor what you say for some of them to get the hint and others to miss it. Sometimes it work and sometimes you discover that everyone read the news yesterday and go your hint or that they all know the nearly unknow actor that you named...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is fast enough to play on lunchtime (The number of points or number of turns to win could be chosen depending on available play time), the maximum number of players is 6 (Playing with 3 or 4 players could be done but it is really less interesting, it should be limited to 5 or 6 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a small amount of randomness, moderate amount of reflection and no direct interaction between players outside of the narator/non-narator separation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box is uselessly big but could be discarded as a simple paper or a white-board is better to count points anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9220/saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fun, easy to play, pretty fast (as the array of cards is fixed, the time don't really depends on the number of player and stay around 20 minutes) playeable up to 10 players. It's a great game for lunchtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game have a high amount of randomness and player interaction and small amount of strategy for miners / great amount of strategy for saboteurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always play without a random amount of saboteurs as getting only one nearly assure that he will lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1927/munchkin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Munchkin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the number of player is limited to 4 or 5 it could be played in 1h (more and it's too long) and the game is really fun with lot of interaction between players (Playing a +10 levels to a monster the other player used all it's bonus to be able to kill is allways so much fun) a good amount of randomness and a little bit of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of our players don't like this game as the rules are not really well defined sometimes and lot of cards change them. It's also the only game where some editions explain that cheating is authorized (There is a rule for what happens to you if someone notice) and that if there is a debate the player owning the box decide the outcome :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/883/ivanhoe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ivanhoe / Camelot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is simple but there is finally a good amount of strategy as well as randomness and there are a moderate amount of player interactions. It's pretty fast so it could be played multiple times in one hour. The game is great at 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11945/linq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Linq&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good game of bluff and guess-who-i-am with a small amount of randomness, big amount of strategy and moderate amount of interaction between players. It could be played up to 8 players according to the box but more is ok. The rounds are very fast to play and you could do as many as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Games for two players follow we don't play them as often so i separate them. It's good to have them to be able to split the group.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/66587/gosu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gosu&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically an alternative to magic. Very strategic and interesting but should be limited to 2 players for lunchtime games as more players is too long, getting well over 1h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/72287/mr-jack-pocket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mr. Jack Pocket&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really great nearly pure reflection game for two players. The game is small to transport and could be played in 30min without problem (The time depends a lot on the reflection time of each player, as with chess a time limit for reflection is sometime usefull)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="602" LastEditDate="2010-12-16T22:44:17.027" LastActivityDate="2010-12-16T22:44:17.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-17T00:50:43.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there's a bit of setup it's still reasonably quick, and you get a lot of meaty gameplay in 30-45 minutes. It's designed for 3-7 players and has a very solid 2-player variant included (2-player takes longer than 3-7, be forewarned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T00:50:43.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2010-12-17T02:15:52.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main advantages I see to the strong 1 NT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your partner is very weak, the strong 1NT is far more likely to make (and far less likely to be doubled) than the weak 1NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Though 15-17 is much rarer than 12-14, when it does occur it is very easy to put the contract in the right place &lt;em&gt;with the strong hand as declarer&lt;/em&gt;. Hiding the partnership's strength makes defense more difficult.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against intermediate players, I suspect that the pre-emptive power of the weak 1NT gives it an edge (at least in America, where players have less experience against weak 1NT openers), but stronger players will be able to bid around the 1NT and accurately double for penalty more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T02:15:52.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:31:23.163" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick up the &lt;strong&gt;On the Brink&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/40849/pandemic-on-the-brink&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The forums at Boardgamegeek state that it definitely eases up the difficulty of the 4 and 5 player versions as well as providing more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T17:31:23.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-17T17:33:05.677" Score="2" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a version of the computer Scrabble game that uses the new dictionary (not really new anymore, came out in 2006)?  I know about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.isc.ro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ISC&lt;/a&gt;, but we're looking for something that my technophobic mother-in-law can use to play against her computer.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T06:52:27.410" Title="Scrabble computer version that uses the new dictionary? (OSPD4/OTCWL2)" Tags="|scrabble|computers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1814" CreationDate="2010-12-17T19:08:16.170" Score="13" ViewCount="14013" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somebody told me that he has an extension for Settlers of Catan that allows play with up to ten players. Who made it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still sold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:17:49.123" LastActivityDate="2017-08-23T20:57:28.870" Title="Is there a 10 player expansion for Settlers of Catan? Where can I get it?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1813" CreationDate="2010-12-17T19:18:11.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o78Xhjd7Lu8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video of a 10 player game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is anything official, but as the video demonstrates, its just a matter of putting together a couple extra sets to get a playable 10 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd imagine the trading rounds would be a bit chaotic though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T22:24:56.950" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T22:24:56.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1813" CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:31:27.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have played an 8 player game.  We simply used two sets, making the board huge.  We played with the expansion rules (IE special building phases)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~~edit~~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pieces, we already had the 6 player expansion.  For the additional 2 players, we used black and grey Lego pieces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastEditorUserId="487" LastEditDate="2010-12-17T20:46:14.497" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T20:46:14.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2010-12-17T20:44:56.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easiest way to learn your first trick-taking game is to play a few open hands.  Give a brief overview, then just deal out a hand face-up on the table.  It matters to some extent what game you play, but more than that, just play several hands with everyone leaving their cards on the table.  Each play, you explain both the rules and the reasoning behind plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once someone has a firm grasp of any trick-taking game, it is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier to teach them another one, instead of starting from ground zero.  In fact, every time I'm teaching someone a new-to-them card game, I always start by asking what other games they already know.   I then use that game(s) as a starting point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T20:44:56.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-17T22:03:14.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My coworkers and I would get great mileage off our Cribbage set during lunch breaks. An average game would last us 35 minutes or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="607" LastActivityDate="2010-12-17T22:03:14.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1825" CreationDate="2010-12-18T13:24:55.497" Score="5" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the ZMan version of Tales of Arabian Nights, you choose 20 points between Story and Destiny. I tend to do 10 of each or something similar. Is this the best strategy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the game is very random, which I'm OK with, but are there any variants where there is some strategy or planning involved? Especially with some of the quests, it's like it doesn't really matter where you go on the board, just that you go somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T22:42:13.883" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T22:42:13.883" Title="Tales of Arabian Nights -- Story versus Destiny and variants?" Tags="|variants|tales-of-arabian-nights|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1824" CreationDate="2010-12-18T13:43:45.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've pnly played the WEG version of this game once, so my memory is a bit foggy.  It was an interesting concept, but we had one player who rolled so badly that she hardly got to do anything the whole game.  The only strategy I tried to employ was try to make sure I had a &lt;em&gt;chance&lt;/em&gt; for something interesting to happen every turn.  I suppose you could invent your own variant where it's known ahead of time what will happen at each location instead of rolling for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-18T13:43:45.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-12-19T03:32:57.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to play Monopoly with this rule - properties automatically go up for auction when they are landed on.  This speeds up the game considerably and adds an extra layer of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="fred" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T03:32:57.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1847" CreationDate="2010-12-19T09:11:38.850" Score="27" ViewCount="1771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Dominion pretty regularly with one group of friends, but only occasionally with another group. This creates a pretty big experience gap between me and the second group, and I'm afraid they might lose interest in the game if I win the vast majority of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some successful handicapping methods you have tried?  Something that still challenges me, but levels out the playing field a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T20:36:03.460" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:00:43.907" Title="Any good way to add a handicap in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|house-rules|handicap|" AnswerCount="17" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T13:52:05.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how much open information there is in Dominion, but one thing you could try is offering helpful suggestions to the other players mid-game.  If someone makes an obviously inferior play, you could point it out and suggest something else.  That's what our group does, especially when one person is introducing a new game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T13:52:05.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T14:06:51.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that's very easy to do and explain is tweaking your starting deck: instead of 7/3 start with 6/4 or maybe 7/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried this so I can't say how big the handicap will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can try is simply skipping your first turn. This is probably a lighter handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why it didn't occur to me earlier, but of course you can also start by adding one or two Curses in your deck. Or swapping Estates with Curses, to keep the deck size constant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastEditorUserId="611" LastEditDate="2010-12-20T01:38:53.373" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T01:38:53.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1839" CreationDate="2010-12-19T14:08:23.053" Score="20" ViewCount="5451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game of Agricola yesterday.  Naturally, I'm left with a bunch of questions, but chief among them is: &lt;strong&gt;How do you pronounce the name of this game?&lt;/strong&gt;  Our group was split pretty evenly between &quot;AG-ri-co-la&quot; and &quot;a-GREEK-o-la&quot;.  Which side (or maybe neither!) is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T04:52:12.477" Title="How do you pronounce Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2010-12-19T14:13:13.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among my group, we pronounce it &quot;ah-greek-OH-la&quot;. Based on the fact that the designer is German, my so-so knowledge of German, and lack of facts that prove me wrong, I 'd say this is the &quot;correct&quot; pronounciation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I 'm Greek. We pronounce things quite differently than Americans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T14:13:13.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2010-12-19T14:27:57.177" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upgrade is quite strong by itself for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use it to trash 0-cost cards that you no longer want in your deck (coppers and curses). Trashing curses is obvious, but regarding copper: &lt;em&gt;do not underestimate the power of having a really small deck!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use it to turn your Estates into Silver (always a good choice) or, even better, into a highly contested 3-cost card in a 3 or 4 player game (think Village in a pool where it is the only action-gaining card).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These reasons are enough for Upgrade to be something you want to have in your deck, and not only in one copy. There are also, in my experience, two factors stemming from the kingdom card pool that &quot;modify&quot; Upgrade's usefulness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the pool is very strongly combo-oriented&lt;/strong&gt; (lots of cards with +actions and +cards plus cards with +gold and/or +buy), Upgrade may be too slow. For example, in a pool with Festival/Smithy/Village/Nobles/Throne Room I don't think you 'd have the time to do enough with Upgrade before combos start exploding left and right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the pool has no +buy actions&lt;/strong&gt;, Upgrade is stronger. It's the only way you will have to gain a second card in your turn. In this case, lots of Upgrades (3-4) can serve to turn your initial turn buys (2-4 cost) to 5-6 cost cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, don't forget that &lt;strong&gt;if you have too many Upgrades you can always use one to turn another into a Gold.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T14:27:57.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T15:57:48.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Along the same lines as giving yourself less starting resources, you could allow the other players to start with more... either silvers instead of coppers, or maybe 2 coppers and 2 silvers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T15:57:48.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2010-12-19T16:41:44.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned ah-GREE-ko-lah in school, and Wiktionary seems to bear me out: according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, the (classical) pronunciation in IPA was /aˈɡri.ko.la/, and according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_Phonetic_Alphabet#Suprasegmentals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this table on wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; the quote precedes the stressed syllable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T16:41:44.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:01:19.130" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Erik P's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/agricola&quot;&gt;reference to Wiktionary&lt;/a&gt; is correct, but he is interpreting the IPA pronunciation &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia%3aIPA#I&quot;&gt;incorrectly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;/aˈɡri.ko.la/&lt;/code&gt;  is &lt;em&gt;ah-GRIH-koh-lah&lt;/em&gt;.  You can hear it pronounced by Merriam-Webster &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/5Ug8W&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2010-12-19T17:06:33.227" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T17:06:33.227" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:04:34.373" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a more significant handicap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you have to shuffle your deck, you could gain a Curse just prior to shuffling.  This would provide a more continual handicap, rather than one you can just overcome in a few turns (like a weakened starting deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T17:04:34.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43205" CreationDate="2010-12-19T17:39:15.823" Score="32" ViewCount="15177" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the differences? And do these differences influence strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="35101" LastEditDate="2021-02-09T18:27:27.333" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T13:34:19.953" Title="What are the differences between Chinese and Japanese rules in Go?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="1842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T19:02:18.577" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an informal handicap, when I'm playing in a game like this I usually try to make myself take my 2nd strategy - instead of doing the most obvious thing on the board, I come up with something more oddball and see if I can make that work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that's not a huge handicap but can help is letting the less experienced players choose the 10 Kingdom cards, so they can pick things that fit into their own comfortable strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use both these techniques when playing with my wife (she plays every few months while I play 3 times a week at lunch) and thought I still win a lot, she has more fun this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T19:02:18.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:02:24.630" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Newer or less strategic players tend to favor a higher luck to skill ratio in games.  So, if your play group doesn't mind a house rule, you could across the board have everyone reshuffle their deck every turn.  This changes the game, for sure, but it is fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to singly handicap yourself, you need to decide if it's going to be a one time handicap or ongoing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One-time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweak starting deck (less copper/replace VPs with curses)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skipping turns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On-going:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything costs you 1 extra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Per-turn action-limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curse every-turn&#xA;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T20:02:24.630" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:25:52.170" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aforementioned &quot;gain a Curse on each shuffle&quot; handicap is pretty harsh, and may not be appropriate for all card sets.  It's conceptually interesting, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider letting the other players get a number of extra turns at the start.  That'll let them ramp up a little before you jump in.  Alternately, give each other player a special &quot;extra turn&quot; token that lets them take an extra turn at the end of their normal turn.  (Eh, actually, I don't like that idea as much, now that I've written it...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T20:25:52.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:27:39.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple way to handicap yourself a bit might be to replace your initial estates w/ curses. Obviously this won't be a good handicap always (FREX if there is an Ambassador or Chapel in play), but if Upgrade, Remodel, Salvager or the like are in play it could give a pretty decent advantage to the new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T20:27:39.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2010-12-19T20:47:49.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, I'm assuming you're playing The Late Bronze Age version (which is far superior to the game as sold off-the shelf – It's very clear that The Late Bronze Age version of the game is what was originally presented to the publishers, and they felt the need to &quot;simplify&quot; it to reach a wider audience by removing several really nifty mechanics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, &lt;strong&gt;Irrigation&lt;/strong&gt; is the simplest first pick, although &lt;strong&gt;Leadership&lt;/strong&gt; can be almost as good, if you're a little lucky and use it well.  If you can leapfrog to &lt;strong&gt;Quarrying&lt;/strong&gt;, that's a great start (it'll help you buy better advancements, and it combos very well with &lt;strong&gt;Engineering&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Architecture&lt;/strong&gt; later in the game).  If you're playing with three or four players, get &lt;strong&gt;Medicine&lt;/strong&gt; ASAP.  It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt;  save you at least 3 points in penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and that's my 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2010-12-20T14:49:14.553" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T14:49:14.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-19T22:19:36.883" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the easiest form of handicap would be to &lt;strong&gt;subtract&lt;/strong&gt; a certain number of &lt;strong&gt;VP's from your score&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of the game. That should allow of a pretty fine grained control over you handicap and you can still play exactly the same as you would in your other group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2010-12-19T22:19:36.883" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-20T00:23:43.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit wacky but it struck me just now and I was quite tickled by it... you could handicap a good player in Dominion by ADDING estates to their deck; they would technically start off with more Victory Points, but their early draws would be terrible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experienced players might want to compete over how many extra estates they could put in their deck and still survive, it'd take a brave player to add more than a few!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T00:23:43.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1850" CreationDate="2010-12-20T00:39:49.347" Score="15" ViewCount="9874" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I play a lot of Ticket to Ride: Nordic Countries but recently we discovered we'd been playing Ferries incorrectly.  Oops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ferry is depicted on the board as, e.g., 4 red spaces and 2 more red spaces with locomotive motifs.  We'd been playing under the assumption that, to claim this route, you needed to play exactly 4 red cards and 2 locomotives.  It seems, though, that there are several fine points to the rules that we hadn't noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) You can always use any 3 cards in place of a locomotive.&#xA;(b) You can always play an extra locomotive in place of a coloured card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for instance, you could buy the abovementioned red route with 3 red cards and 3 locomotives, 1 red card and 5 locomotives, or even 6 locomotives.  You could also buy it with 4 red cards and 6 blue cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our big question arising from these revelations: &lt;strong&gt;do these rules stack? That is to say, can I buy this route with 3 red cards and 9 yellow cards?  Eighteen assorted cards none of which are locomotives and reds?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tunnels I think - I hope - we've gotten pretty much correct.  You state you're trying to build a tunnel of, for example, 3 green cards.  You flip over a green card, a red card, and a locomotive from the deck.  We've assumed that you can now build your tunnel by adding two cards in any combination of green or locomotive to the initial three greens (i.e., you don't have to match the quality of the cards you flipped, just the quantity).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, our confusion over ferries possibly creates a new question.  If I had only 4 green cards (and no locos) in my hand... can I pay one extra green and &lt;em&gt;three cards of any colour, in place of a locomotive&lt;/em&gt; to build my tunnel?  I'm inclined to think not, but I just don't know for sure any more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T17:50:43.880" LastActivityDate="2019-07-30T16:09:07.067" Title="Ferries and Tunnels in Ticket to Ride Expansions" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-nordic-countries|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2010-12-20T01:45:40.440" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rules do not stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can only in 3 cards to fill the designated locomotive spots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use locomotives to fill in the colored spots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot use the first to get a locomotive and then trade that in for the colored card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was asked of designer Alan Moon, on BGG and his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/263764/use-of-three-card-jokers-in-ferries&quot;&gt;response&lt;/a&gt; was as I have given here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T01:45:40.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1849" CreationDate="2010-12-20T03:57:31.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I think Pat has provided an authoritative answer (which I will no doubt end up accepting), but let me see if I can phrase the (clarified) rules succintly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a route is marked with one or more locomotive symbols (i.e. it is a Ferry) then:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each space marked with a locomotive symbol can be paid for with a locomotive or any THREE other cards (regardless of the colour of the space).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each space not marked with a locomotive symbol can be paid for with a locomotive or a card of the colour of the route (if a grey route, then the colour chosen to pay for the route).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a route is marked as a tunnel then:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each space can be paid for with a locomotive or a card of the colour of the route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a route is not marked as a tunnel then:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each space can be paid for ONLY with a card of the appropriate colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the unique case of the grey Murmansk-Lieksa route:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each space can be paid for with a card of the colour chosen to pay for the route, or any FOUR other cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has all that clear in their head by the time they sit down to play their first game, they have better powers of rulebook comprehension than I do, that's all I can say!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T03:57:31.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-20T05:22:14.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a series of games we use the following house rule:&#xA;Starting w/ the whoever came in first each player picks a kingdom card to remove. Whoever came in last gets to pick 2. Then the last player divvies the randomizer deck up amongst the players, with each player getting an about equal portion of the randomizer deck to pick from, but the last place player getting two portions. Each person picks their randomizers and reveals them at the same time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that we keep the randomizer deck sorted approximately by cost of the cards from low to high.&#xA;For example, we're playing a series of 3 player games. &lt;strong&gt;Al&lt;/strong&gt; won, &lt;strong&gt;Bob&lt;/strong&gt; came in second and &lt;strong&gt;Carl&lt;/strong&gt; last.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Al&lt;/strong&gt; would pick a kingdom, then &lt;strong&gt;Bob&lt;/strong&gt;, then &lt;strong&gt;Carl&lt;/strong&gt; picks two. Those kingdoms are set aside (if we're using the Blackmarket a couple cards from each go into the Blackmarket deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carl&lt;/strong&gt; decides he wants to pick from the expensive cards, and so takes the bottom half of the deck, &lt;strong&gt;Bob&lt;/strong&gt; wants to pick from the cheap cards and takes the top quarter, leaving a quarter for &lt;strong&gt;Al&lt;/strong&gt; to pick from. Once everyone has picked a card to add in (&lt;strong&gt;Carl&lt;/strong&gt; picking two) they reveal them. This means each game changes a little, but some of the previous stuff is still in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T05:22:14.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:34:06.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt; is a great game with tremendously elegant mechanics.  Matt Leacock did fantastic job of using the infection deck and the draw deck as sequencer/timers.  This careful mechanical design is precisely what makes it difficult to expand the game to six players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;thinks for a while&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay.  Here's an idea that should let you play with as six players (and possibly more):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Assign roles to players at random.  Deal out cards as if playing with five players.  Also give each player an &quot;action&quot; token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• When it's your turn, you can spend your action token and take a turn, or pass.  If you do not have an action token, you must pass.  If you pass, your entire turn (including the infection phase) is skipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• When no player has an action token, every player gets an action token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might need to tweak the starting hand sizes, but this little hack just might suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T15:34:06.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:45:05.890" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't a huge handicap, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider allowing them to always have a 5/2 split for money the first two turns, and you always have a 4/3 split the first two turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the 5-cost cards all tend to be powerful, this gives them an advantage sometime during turns 3-5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One caveat: Don't do this during a game without 2-cost actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T15:45:05.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2010-12-20T15:56:47.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got beaten to recommending &lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt;, which certainly fits your needs (7 players, ~40 minutes), so consider this a +1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like &lt;em&gt;Dominion&lt;/em&gt;, consider &lt;strong&gt;AEG&lt;/strong&gt;'s &lt;em&gt;Thunderstone&lt;/em&gt;.  Deck-building, with a dungeon-delving theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steve Jackson Games'&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Cthulhu Dice&lt;/em&gt; are decent for large groups.  Of the two, I prefer &lt;em&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/em&gt;, as it has a bit more decision-making and agency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...while we're on dice games, there's &lt;strong&gt;Roll Through The Ages&lt;/strong&gt;  It's only up to 4 players, but it plays in an hour or less and conveys an enjoyable civ-building experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're okay with print-and play games, I made two that might fit the bill: &lt;strong&gt;Office Gossip&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/435/office-politics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/435/office-politics&lt;/a&gt; ) is a &lt;strong&gt;Werewolf&lt;/strong&gt;-style game that doesn't need a player to sit out and be the narrator – everyone gets to play.  &lt;strong&gt;Uncontrolled Squid&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/211/uncontrolled-squid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/211/uncontrolled-squid&lt;/a&gt; ) is a team-based contested bidding game – all you need are standard Poker decks (1 per four players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: One more suggestion – &lt;strong&gt;Prolix&lt;/strong&gt; from &lt;em&gt;Z-Man Games&lt;/em&gt; is a word game for 1 to 5 players that plays quickly, is very portable, and is quite fun.  The premise: Think of a word that uses as many of the (ten?) letters on the scoring board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T15:56:47.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1753" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:18:18.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spent 10 years posting one free print-and-play game each month.  Many of these games used simple, commonly found components – like a standard Poker deck.  Of those games, there are a few that may fit your needs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;Up 'N Over&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/24/up-and-over&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/24/up-and-over&lt;/a&gt; ): 2 to 5 players.  Take turns playing to a stack in the center, trying to get the sum to 21 on your turn, or force the player to your left to go over 21.  Royal cards are ), -2, or -4 points.  Aces are 1 or 11.  Has more strategy than you'll initially think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;Dungeon&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/392/dungeon-update&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/392/dungeon-update&lt;/a&gt; ): 2 to 4 players.  Play cards in sequence to escape from a dungeon.  Play cards on other players as monsters, or to cause cave-ins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;Uncontrolled Squid&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/211/uncontrolled-squid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/211/uncontrolled-squid&lt;/a&gt; ): 2 to 8 (or more) players.  Team-based bidding game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;Druid's Duel&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/470/druids-duel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/470/druids-duel&lt;/a&gt; ): Bluffing / Strategy game for 2 to 4 players.  Pick a form and a strategy, reveal your choices, and figure out what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you find something you like!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:18:18.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1710" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:28:30.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll Through The Ages&lt;/strong&gt; with The Late Bronze Age &quot;expansion&quot;.  It's a dice game that's quick to teach, quick to play, and has trading (which people often forget about, but it's really very useful!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider &lt;strong&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/strong&gt; (aka: That Bean Game).  Quick to teach, plays fast, and it's all about trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:28:30.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:42:43.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this doesn't offer a magic solution to your problem, I'd like to share a coping strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got &quot;bushwhacked&quot; by a few AP players at games I played at BGG Con in November.  I was too tired to politely handle the situation by attempting to change the AP players' behavior, so I did what I could to make it easier for myself:  I carefully analyzed the board, got out my notepad, wrote down my next move(s), then spent extra time having friendly conversation with unoccupied players, figuring out additional advance strategies, and jotting down assorted ideas in my notebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose my answer to your problem is (if you can't get the AP players to speed up, and you don't have enough game options that don't cause AP) to use the time to plot your next move, and spend the time chatting with the other players.  After all, you're (ostensibly) friends, so you should have plenty of stuff to talk about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other option: Set up a simple side-game, like &lt;strong&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;M:tG&lt;/strong&gt;, and play it while you're waiting.  If you do this, I strongly recommend jotting down ideas for your next move so &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; don't end up slowing the main game down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2010-12-20T16:52:50.313" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:52:50.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:53:19.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37380/roll-through-the-ages-the-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roll Through The Ages&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Both the basic version and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/47389/roll-through-the-ages-the-late-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Late Bronze Age&lt;/a&gt; expansion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick to teach, quick to play, and many paths to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted that it may take a new player one game to really grok the options, but it plays quickly enough that it's not a big loss/investment of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastEditorUserId="612" LastEditDate="2011-01-03T20:51:16.377" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T20:51:16.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2010-12-20T16:56:57.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to print out and assemble a free print-and-play game, consider &lt;strong&gt;Space Monster&lt;/strong&gt; ( &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/507/space-monster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/507/space-monster&lt;/a&gt; ).  Elevator pitch: &lt;em&gt;Alien&lt;/em&gt; – The boardgame.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neat features: The alien's special powers, immunities, and weaknesses are different every game.  Many player roles, so your &quot;crew&quot; is different every game.  Modular board, so the space ship is different every time.  The alien doesn't have hit points, but a health deck that controls how it reacts and behaves after it gets wounded.  Can be played co-op, co-op with possible traitor, and one-vs-many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Takes 1 to 5 (6?) players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T16:56:57.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:02:44.990" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/strong&gt;: Easy to teach.  Plays in 30 to 40 minutes.  Has a fun civ-building theme.  Simultaneous play.  Some interaction with the players to your left and right.  Completely fits the bill for what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T17:02:44.990" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2010-12-20T17:02:44.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:18:50.607" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your personal situation in the game.  In some situations, both have no value at all.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my usual tactics, 3:1 ports are much more useful.  2:1 ports are better only when they are of a specific resource that I have too much of in a given game, which generally happens when I have several settlements on several hex of that resource with values between 5 and 9.  The 2:1 port of the resources you lack is useless.  Since the resources you get changes during later stages of the game, the 3:1 has the advantage of staying useful during all the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, it's always better to not need a port.  If you use your resources to build without exchanging, or exchanging with other player at 1:1, or getting 2 (or more) for 1.  You don't need a port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also compare the opportunity to build of a port compared to the other building opportunities.  When a good spot that gives three resources is available, your port will be a more valuable investment only if you desperately need to trade.  When those places are gone and the only 3 resources spot are the ones with a 2 or 12, 2 resources and a port become one of the best places you can still build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation also changes when you build new settlements or cities.  At some point in the game, you might need to trade a lot to establish a settlement providing the missing resource, and after building it, you don't need to trade anymore.  If you lack wood or brick, a port is useful when your strategy is focused on new settlements, but it becomes useless when the good spots are all taken and you change your focus to cities and development cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know that you will run out of available settlement spots (when there are still several turns to play), you should should consider a wood or brick port, since you will have to exchange those resources after you run out of settlement spots.  (You can still compete for the  longest road, but if you have it, you can't get anymore points by building more roads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T06:10:08.243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T06:10:08.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1871" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:40:15.127" Score="13" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently experienced the problem mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9/what-cooperative-board-games-are-there-that-i-could-safely-play-with-my-wife/71#71&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, with myself being one of the enthusiasts pushing other party members around. It wasn't intentional, it's just that the structure of the game lends itself to giving each other &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in Arkham Horror, but want to know whether people have experienced the same problem with it. If you have experienced the problem, how? If not, and you think it's related to game mechanics, how so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:21:09.567" Title="Arkham Horror: dominant personality issue?" Tags="|arkham-horror|cooperation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2010-12-20T17:52:19.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We play we an implicit rule of offer, counter offer, response.   I suggest you discuss that rule with you players and you implicitly play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who is playing his turn something like : I would like a wood, I can offer a sheep.  The other players can accept, reject or making a counter offer.  The player who is playing his turn something can accept a counter offer or make a final counter that the other player can just accept or reject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the other player just reject the first player offer, its turn is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing that way, people making extreme demand just get reject by everybody and their turn is very short.  It force player to make reasonable offer at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not in favor of a time limit because it is hard to enforce.  But it should be clear that if a person is not decide after around 5 seconds, we told her to decide now how or think to it while the other are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T17:52:19.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1864" CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:13:29.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's just the nature of the beast, from what I have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was frankly shocked that Arkham Horror got so many votes in that question -- there's no way in this lifetime or the next that my wife, any of her friends, or any of my friends' wives would play that game more than once, partly for the reason you've listed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that Arkham Horror plays the best when everyone knows the game equally well, or very close to equal.  It's hard to measure, but everyone at a minimum should understand all the core rules, and there's probably going to be one or two people who have memorized the contents of each deck, and have read up on strategies for certain characters to help with decision-making.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For new players, I would do two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to go over as many of the rules and concepts as possible before starting.  I know that's a lot to ask, but if people don't understand the overall goal, the game can be extremely intimidating.  Try to explain what's in each deck so people have an idea of where to go for things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask new players up front if they want to be coached and advised, or if they want to just feel things out for themselves.  Some people take advise better than others, and some just want to learn by doing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I ever played, we played a six player game where only one of the guys had played with any regularity, so he acted as the GM for the session (managing the state of the game, reading the cards, moving monsters, enforcing rules, etc.).  However, the rules weren't thoroughly explained beforehand, so we just stumbled around the first four or five turns trying to figure out what to do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have &lt;em&gt;loved&lt;/em&gt; to have been given advice instead of stupidly stumbling through a portal with no way of closing it after returning.  The whole &quot;what the heck are we even trying to do here?&quot; feeling from just stumbling around left a bad impression on me about the game for a long time afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ended up sending out a PDF copy of the rules to everyone to read as &quot;homework&quot; so we could be better prepared next time we played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T18:13:29.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="637" CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:23:39.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the vein of &lt;strong&gt;Apples To Apples&lt;/strong&gt;, I strongly endorse &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1353/times-up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Time's Up!&lt;/a&gt;.  Why?  Because &lt;strong&gt;Time's Up!&lt;/strong&gt; does a great job of binding old friends and new acquaintances together in the rapid creation of group-specific ideocultural language and in-jokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being less esoteric: It's a great team game with no down-time for any player on any team.  This it true because you need to pay careful attention to what the other teams are doing on their turns because every team uses the same stack of cards as clue cards – the clues that one team uses on a card that they don't guess correctly may be just the clue you need to successfully recognize the same card later on in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: &lt;strong&gt;Time's Up!&lt;/strong&gt; has a heavy charades component to it, so if your group doesn't like charades, stay away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T18:23:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-12-20T18:52:39.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of &lt;a href=&quot;http://ogrecave.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ogre Cave&lt;/a&gt;.  They're good, down-to earth guys with an active community of commenters.  There's RPG stuff there too, but there's plenty of boardgame reviews too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T18:52:39.930" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:30:34.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The benefit of development card are constant during the game, the benefit of cities and colonies diminish each turn.  Generally, I tend to favor more colonies in the beginning of the game and cities in the middle and development card at the end.  Of course, depending of which number are played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use your resources for many development card at the beginning, your colonies will probably be in least interesting place that if you have build them at the beginning.   Other players will take the best spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, when the dice give you what you need for a development card and you don't have the possibility to trade to be able to build a colony, you are generally better to take the card.  But in the beginning, trade focusing on colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a special case, when the wood or brick all have extreme number (2,3, 11 or 12), it will be hard for all player to get road and colonies.  Investing early in several development cards can give you quick start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you have a stop that attract the robber.  Getting a few card to have a reserve of knight can be a good thing.  Then you let people know that whoever steal who will get the robber back on their best spot next turn.  And you do it.  I you successfully deter some player to rob you, it is a worthy investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T16:51:52.187" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:51:52.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:35:12.017" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to choose a handcap, I believe I would either add or replace existing cards in my starting deck with curse cards.  This would be a handicap in both total victory points and in unusable cards in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T19:35:12.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1864" CreationDate="2010-12-20T19:47:48.697" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've successfully played Arkham Horror several times with non-gamers (and myself being the kind who tends to push others around). My tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Think of yourself as the GM.  You'll be the one who keeps the game moving, and your primary job is making sure everyone is having fun.  As much as possible, give your character the supporting jobs and let them play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Simplify the game for them by focusing on the concepts, not the rules.  My super-simple explanation of the game to get someone started: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We win the game by sealing gates.  You need 5 clue tokens to seal a gate, but sealing a gate is dangerous so make sure you're ready.  You'll need 4+ stamina/sanity, and a weapon or two.  You can get weapons in a bunch of ways, but the easiest way is to go get some cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a gross over-simplification, but it gives them a roadmap for their character and a sense of progression, instead of random wandering around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let them play selfishly, even if it's not an optimal strategy.  Nothing ruins a new player's fun like having to give up a Tommy Gun because someone else could use it more effectively.  Each turn, they should have something to do to try and make their character more awesome: get an item, get a monster or gate trophy so they can trade it in, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Give options, not orders: &quot;You could go to the Newspaper and try to get some money, or you could go kill this monster, or go over here and help someone else&quot; etc.  If they make what seems like a bad choice, oh well, the game can still be fun even if you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to bend the rules in the first game.  An early monster or rumor draw can really make a game impossible.  I'll often quietly redraw in those cases if I'm playing with inexperienced players to give them a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, Arkham has been a great cooperative game for everyone I've played it with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T19:47:48.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:17:12.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; work:  Limited permission to trade.  Consider this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every player starts the game with a &quot;merchant&quot; token.  If you want to initiate a trade (ex: &quot;I'm looking for ore or wood.  I'm offering sheep and grain.&quot;), you have to spend your merchant token.  If you don't have a merchant token, you can't initiate a trade, but you can still offer responses to a trade request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all players but one are out of merchant tokens at the end of any player's turn, all players get a merchant token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea here is that the ability to initiate a trade becomes rare and valuable.  This makes  players who futz around with ridiculous (and time-consuming) offers less likely to initiate a trade when they're not desperate, and makes them less desirable to negotiate with when you're the one who initiated the trade.  It also prevents them from attempting to trade every turn, since they can only initiate a trade if they have a merchant token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T20:17:12.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2010-12-20T20:24:52.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/b/2007/11/05/monopoly-express-play-online.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monopoly Express&lt;/a&gt;?  It's got the Monopoly theme, but it's a dice game that takes about 25 minutes to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that vein, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28086/risk-express&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Risk Express&lt;/a&gt; is actually quite fun (but hard to find in the USA).  It's another dice game version of a Hasbro board game that keeps the flavor, but plays quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T20:24:52.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="92" CreationDate="2010-12-20T21:06:30.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've designed and released two free print-and-play games that have traitor mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/499/haunted-destinies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haunted Destinies&lt;/a&gt;: All players start as amnesiacs (Each player has a small set of face-down Psyche cards that you're not allowed to look at.).  The goal is to figure out who The Opener is and prevent that player from killing all of the other players.  If you realize that you're The Opener, your goal is to kill all of the other players.  If you die, and you're not The Opener, you become a Ghost.  Special &quot;Haunting&quot; cards come up during play that give the Ghosts special victory conditions.  There's also a novel mechanic that lets you &quot;steal&quot; destinies from other players, so it's possible to steal The Opener role from a player and take it for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/507/space-monster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Monster&lt;/a&gt;: Playable as pure co-op, one-vs-many, or with an &quot;up for grabs&quot; traitor.  The plot of &lt;em&gt;Space Monster&lt;/em&gt; parallels the movie Alien – Figure out the space monster's weaknesses and kill it before it eats all of you.  The &quot;up for grabs&quot; traitor mechanic comes into play with the escape pod.  There's one escape pod, with enough room for one person.  If you think that the monster will win, you can bail and leave in the escape pod.  If you do this, and the monster wins, you win instead.  With this set-up, any player can become a &quot;traitor.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T21:06:30.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="121" CreationDate="2010-12-20T21:17:17.887" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;An assortment of advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bgdf.com/&quot;&gt;Board Game Designers Forum&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attend &lt;a href=&quot;http://protospiel.org/&quot;&gt;Protospiel&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://protospielsouth.com/&quot;&gt;Protospiel South&lt;/a&gt;, or Protospiel North or West.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play lots of games, and a wide variety of games, both modern and classic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start designing games, taking them all the way from concept to completion.  Do it over and over again.  I designed and released one free print-and-play game each month at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/&quot;&gt;Invisible City Productions&lt;/a&gt;.  I did this from January 2000 to December 2010.  The first seven games were pretty hard, but it got easier after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn how to playtest your games, and how to integrate feedback into your designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamatradeshow.com/&quot;&gt;GAMA Trade Show&lt;/a&gt;.  Talk to publishers - especially smaller ones.  Take them out to dinner and ask them about the industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brush up on your math – especially probability and statistics.  Learn how to mathematically  model dice pools, bags of beads, and decks of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T21:17:17.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-12-20T22:46:48.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, you should go for the colonies.  However, you have more option if you still get all resources, just trying to have more frequent number for wood and brick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good colonies spot may be gone fast.  If you first upgrade your city, they might not be there.  Also, more colonies can bring complementary resources when cities when only gave you what you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a special case, when the wood or brick all have extreme number (2,3, 11 or 12), it will be hard for all player to get road and colonies.  In that case, you should first invest in development cards, which will allow you to get an edge in development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2010-12-20T22:46:48.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2010-12-21T02:47:38.870" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;@invisiblejon -&#xA;The Late Bronze Age was developed months after the game as sold in the box. I added some additional developments for those gamers looking for something meatier. (The publisher didn't water anything down.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and I like Irrigation as a first purchase too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="619" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-12-21T04:30:16.340" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T04:30:16.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1959" CreationDate="2010-12-21T03:57:29.693" Score="6" ViewCount="2904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this game, but I recently hosted a play with friends. With 8 people the game was very slow and difficult to play. What would you recommend to make the game a little more dynamic and fun when played with more than 5 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One particular thing that a friend of mine recommended is not reading the encounter cards directly, but rather ask someone else to read the card for you, and ask them not to tell you what happens if you fail/pass the check until you've made it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="57" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-17T07:32:23.387" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T07:32:23.387" Title="Arkham Horror - Tips for making the game more dynamic and fun when you play with more than 5 players?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-12-21T14:52:06.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameswithscott.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Games with Scott&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is an excellent review site that provides video reviews of games and attempts to describe whether the game in question is a good match for the type of game you'd like to own.  There are quite a few reviews available, but he isn't necessarily going to cover every single game on the market.  Scott has been reviewing fewer games lately, but the reviews that continue to come out are always of very high quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T14:52:06.807" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-12-21T19:30:40.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I write for MTV Geek, Wired GeekDad, and The Geek Collective.  None of the sites are as comprehensive as BGG (in fact, all of my reviews are cross-posted to their linked items list).  You cannot go wrong with BGG but if you really do want other sites, those are great places to check out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://geek-news.mtv.com/category/hobby-gaming/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTV Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.themoderndaypirates.com/pirates/category/toys/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Geek Collective&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/geekdad/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wired GeekDad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T19:30:40.313" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2010-12-21T21:14:03.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're still interested in vacuum-forming, Make magazine (by O'Riley Press) had an article on how to make your own vacuum-former in issue 11.  I followed their instructions and made one so I could quickly duplicate parts for a board game prototype I'm making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important note: You'll want to find a (local) source for sheets of .03&quot; or .02&quot; Styrene if you're going to do vacuum-forming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another route:  I'm not sure how pricey the foam people are suggesting is.  If it's fairly expensive, consider making your own custom holders with Crayola's Model Magic.  It's a foamy clay-like substance that's lightweight, easy to sculpt, and hardens fairly quickly when exposed to air.  I can easily imagine taking a hunk of it and modeling custom inserts for a game box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, the solution I chose when I had lots of bits rattling around in my copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22485/terra-prime&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terra Prime&lt;/a&gt; (which is a darn fun game, BTW), was to purchase a bunch of little snap-top craft boxes - like you'd store pins &amp;amp; needles, or buttons in - from a craft store.  Each token has its own box, and each player piece color has its own box, along with the tokens and chips you're supposed to start with.  Stuff still shifts around in the box, but not as much since it's all in larger boxes, and it all stays organized anyway.  On top of that, setup is much faster since players already have their starting tokens in their piece box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-21T21:14:03.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2010-12-21T21:54:38.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play on the difficult evenings at my local club (North-east of England), many of the players use a &quot;mini&quot; no-trump, opening 1NT on 10-12 (not vulnerable) and 12-14 (vulnerable). Try as I might this is rather a difficult system to overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T19:37:30.430" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T19:37:30.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1812" CreationDate="2010-12-22T08:31:00.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://apps.facebook.com/ea_scrabble_closed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Facebook Scrabble&lt;/a&gt; uses the new dictionary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also be played via your iPhone (connects to the same same servers, so players on different platforms may play).  The iPhone version has single-player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quadplex is another site that hosts Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T06:52:27.410" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T06:52:27.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1904" CreationDate="2010-12-22T14:25:36.923" Score="11" ViewCount="2423" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an EDH (Commander) game recently, Alice used &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/wwk/en/40.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thada Adel, Acquisitor&lt;/a&gt; to steal an artifact out of Bob's deck, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m11/en/206.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;, and cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That artifact's ability says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{2}, {T}: You gain 5 life. Shuffle Elixir of Immortality and your graveyard into your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Alice uses that ability, what happens to the artifact? Does it go into Bob's graveyard or get shuffled into Alice's library? Does Alice still even shuffle her graveyard into her library and gain 5 life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yur6z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thada Adel, Acquisitor&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Wrcg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Elixir of Immortality&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T00:51:54.730" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T02:56:04.500" Title="What happens if you steal an Elixir of Immortality and then use it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1903" CreationDate="2010-12-22T15:04:56.523" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It goes into Bob's library (the owner of the card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.3. If an object would go to any library, graveyard, or hand other than its owner’s, it goes to its &#xA;  owner’s corresponding zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also specific &lt;a href=&quot;http://dcirules.org/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=299%3ao-m11-errata-elixir-of-immortality&amp;amp;catid=54%3afaq&amp;amp;Itemid=64&quot;&gt;errata&lt;/a&gt; on the Elixir&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Elixir of Immortality - {1}&#xA;  Artifact&#xA;  {2}, {T}: You gain 5 life. Shuffle Elixir of Immortality and your&#xA;  graveyard into their owner's library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This new wording correctly instructs the player as to what to do in&#xA;  the case where the controller of the ability does not own Elixir of&#xA;  Immortality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Please pass this information on to other interested parties who may&#xA;  not have received it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2010-12-22T15:29:05.107" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T15:29:05.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1841" CreationDate="2010-12-22T16:31:50.057" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there are some minor differences between rule sets used in different countries, most notably in Chinese and Japanese scoring rules, &lt;strong&gt;these differences do not seriously affect the tactics and strategy of the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two basic scoring systems used to determine the winner at the end of a game; they almost always give the same result. Territory scoring counts the number of empty points your stones surround, together with the number of stones you captured. While it originated in China, today it is commonly associated with Japan and Korea. Area scoring counts the number of points your stones occupy and surround. It is associated with contemporary Chinese play and was probably established there during the Ming Dynasty in the 15th or 16th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the full article &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="629" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T16:31:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2010-12-22T16:37:50.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A battery-operated card shuffler can shuffle any deck of cards of width/height 1/2 the size of the bay all the way up to the full width/height of the bay. Slightly smaller cards shouldn't be an issue, but I've never seen one larger than a standard deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="629" LastActivityDate="2010-12-22T16:37:50.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="889" CreationDate="2010-12-23T04:35:33.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mahjong (actually Majiang - 麻将 in mandarin) is really just played like a card game.&#xA;It's mainly played in China and doesn't have the &quot;manners&quot; that you can find in Japanese traditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old people play mahjong like they would play a card game, some people play for money, but there are no manners to follow others than &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastersgames.com/rules/mah-jong-rules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules of the game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastActivityDate="2010-12-23T04:35:33.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2010-12-23T15:02:40.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would highly recommend the Inns and Cathedrals for a reason no one has listed that I've seen. If you play with Inns and Cathedrals, it allows you to play with 6 players. I often like to invite a couple of couples over to play board games with us, and 5 players is a rather odd number to be playing with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take the recommendations of getting at least the first two expansions (Inns and Cathedrals and Traders &amp;amp; Builders), any of the other ones are just icing on the cake;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2010-12-23T15:02:40.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2010-12-23T22:40:54.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wheat and ore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first city gives you far more dots of production than your third settlement. A starting settlement can have thirteen dots of production, while your third settlement rarely breaks seven dots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get your first city or two up, you can trade your valuable city materials to other players for clay and wood. 1-1 trades are pretty common, especially for wheat, but your production is so strong that you can afford imbalanced ratios (say, 3 ore for 1 clay and 1 wood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do be careful you don't get boxed out completely---you usually need to build two more settlements over the course of the game, if only to upgrade to cities for the VPs. If you're conservative about your initial road placement, this isn't hard to engineer, but it is a danger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2010-12-28T17:59:24.530" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T17:59:24.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="137" CreationDate="2010-12-24T18:29:14.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't state anywhere that you can roll back to a previous phase, and the core rules and FAQ don't explicitly cover this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that while you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; play a card that gives him extra strength, there will be &lt;strong&gt;no net effect&lt;/strong&gt; since damage has already been applied, and once damage is applied, that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2010-12-24T18:29:14.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1931" CreationDate="2010-12-26T01:53:07.180" Score="9" ViewCount="3021" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've played Fluxx in groups from 2&#xA;  through 10; Zombie Fluxx seems to work&#xA;  even better at the ends of that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/348/games-that-play-well-with-a-wide-range-of-different-numbers-of-players/379#379&quot;&gt;from here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boxes of all the Fluxx games say 2-6 players, but how well do the games play with 7+ players? I have Zombie Fluxx and the regular Fluxx, is there anything I can do to make the game play better with more people? Does anyone with experience of 7+ player Fluxx have any advice? I know combining different versions can often make it impossible to fulfil some goals, but I'm still curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:08:38.547" Title="Flexibility of number of players in Fluxx" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-12-26T03:57:34.297" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my group, Fluxx tends to end by accident, regardless of number of players.  Actively trying to win pretty much ensures that you won't.  Having lots of players (I think my largest was 10) doesn't seem to change that.  I've had large games end in 5 minutes and I've played in games where we got bored and quit.  I see what you mean by your question though.  Intuitively it seems like a large group would make it harder to win.  In practice, I think there are so &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; ways to win that the number of players doesn't really change the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only group size where Fluxx isn't as much fun is 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T03:57:34.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1930" CreationDate="2010-12-26T04:33:48.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played a few 10-player games of Fluxx and similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1930/fluxx-and-number-of-player-flexibility/1931#1931&quot;&gt;Kristo's answer&lt;/a&gt;, the number of players doesn't seem to change the game much.  That said, one drawback is that it may take a LONG time for your turn to come around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T04:33:48.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1934" CreationDate="2010-12-26T05:02:31.807" Score="14" ViewCount="3389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few frequently played card games where the cards no longer feel &quot;clean&quot;.  They aren't stained or anything, just a bit grimy.  Is there an effective way to clean the cards without damaging the graphics?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T18:11:33.087" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:11:33.087" Title="What is the best way to clean dirty cards" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1933" CreationDate="2010-12-26T15:17:51.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that a &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; damp washcloth with a little bit of plain old bar soap on it works just fine -- don't use those goofy hand soaps with the beads or anything fancy in them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightly rub the cloth on the card, dry it off with another washcloth, and let it sit for a few hours.  You definitely want to try this on one card first to make sure that nothing streaks on the card, and only do small batches at a time to make it manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;wouldn't&lt;/em&gt; do this to any Magic cards that you find valuable; those should have been in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1742/what-to-know-about-sleeving-cards&quot;&gt;card sleeves&lt;/a&gt; in the first place.  It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be safe, but I would hate to be responsible for damage to your Mox or Lotus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T15:17:51.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-12-26T15:46:51.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really an online resource, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamesmagazine-online.com/gameslinks/gamereviews.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Games Magazine&lt;/a&gt; does game reviews, too.  (board games, video games, etc.).  Even if you don't pick up the subscription, in the December issue each year they have a 'best games of the year' feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T15:46:51.483" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1951" CreationDate="2010-12-26T22:00:34.417" Score="15" ViewCount="8489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a few games of Settlers of Catan with friends and seen some deals emerge in the trading that don't seem quite right to me.  When do deals that extend beyond the current trade become unbalancing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:  Player A is planning to build a road that will block either Player B or Player C from longest road.  So Player A sets up a bidding war between B and C to control this future behavior.  B and C offer deals like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any time I have two of (favored resource) I will give one to you&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I will never attack you with the robber&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point do deals like these cause the balance of the game to shift too far where it's not fun or as good to play?  Balance seems to be the key in all games, and I just want to make sure deals like these don't kill it for the rest of the players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="222" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T17:12:43.720" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T23:03:49.467" Title="When do trading deals become too unbalancing?" Tags="|catan|trading|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1933" CreationDate="2010-12-26T22:15:28.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option is to get a razor blade or hobby knife, and carefully scrape the grime off. You want to use a very light touch here to avoid scratching the card. Basically put the whole of the blade in contact w/ the card, just slightly off of vertical, and lightly scrape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what method you use, if the cards are used frequently prevention is the best method, but if you do have success cleaning cards, you'll definitely want to get some sleeves to keep your cards nice and clean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2010-12-26T22:15:28.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2010-12-27T02:56:21.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deals in Catan are not binding.  There's no game rule to enforce the future promise.  Also, since the two players in question obviously established an alliance, your best bet is to ally with the fourth player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, these and other types of trades are a good thing rules-wise because players farther behind allying for mutual benefit helps balance out unfair randomness in the game (assuming rational play, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T02:56:21.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1941" CreationDate="2010-12-27T03:26:28.090" Score="29" ViewCount="41187" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to get a Dominion expansion (probably intrigue based on its popularity) but in the meantime I'm curious about what I can do with just the basic set. I know it was designed for 2-4, but I don't see any real solid reason why it can't go to at least 5. I'm perfectly fine with adding any sort of house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends when the provinces or gone or 3 stock piles are exhausted. I figure you could counteract running out of kingdom card piles by possibly &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5/playing-with-less-or-more-than-10-kingdom-card-types-in-dominion&quot;&gt;adding a few more kingdom cards&lt;/a&gt;. To combat the number of provinces we could just add some regular playing cards at the bottom, since they won't go through shuffling too much. My games are pretty relaxed and fun oriented, so some little hacks like that would be fine if they let more people join in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone with experience with playing Dominion with 5+ players, with or without expansions? Any other strategies to making it possible for an extra player or two to join in? How will the game change with more people and is there anything I should keep in mind to make things run smoothly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:09:18.503" Title="How can I play Dominion with 5+ players without expansions?" Tags="|dominion|house-rules|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2010-12-27T05:22:20.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary mechanism when playing with 5 or 6 players using an expansion is just that you get 3 more Provinces per additional person playing (15 with 5, 18 with 6).  Putting a dummy card in (I recommend a kingdom card you're not using if you can remember - that way the card backs don't give away any info) will probably do most of what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other rule is that you have to exhaust FOUR kingdom piles with 5 or 6 players.  You can do that whether you've got the expansion or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, you don't need an expansion to play with 6 players.  You just need 6 additional Provinces, and to play until 4 piles are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;strong&gt;aslum&lt;/strong&gt; points out that you also need 3 more Estates per extra player, and that technically you need more Curses as well.  The Curses and Estates will only matter, however, if you have Kingdom cards in play that promote buying or otherwise gaining from those piles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2010-12-28T06:01:21.010" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T06:01:21.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2010-12-27T06:24:01.913" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;To play with more than 4 players, the rules for Intrigue (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/45425/dominion-intrigue-rules-english-pdf&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; - page 7) give the following guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Provinces = players x 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curses = (players - 1) x 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhaust 4 Kingdom piles (instead of 3) to end the game. Province pile still ends the game on its own.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you'll need 3 more Estates per player at the beginning of the game, but for the Coppers you'll just have fewer in the supply.&#xA;All other rules are the same as in a 3- or 4-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that more players can make a game feel slower, and can make some cards (especially attack cards) more powerful than in a smaller game. Also, Intrigue is the only &quot;expansion&quot; that comes with the common (Copper, Silver, Gold, Estate, Duchy, Province, Curse) cards, but once you have it you can use those to boost your supply. Until then I recommend using a few unused Kingdom cards to fill in the blanks. Between the Base set, Seaside and Alchemy I found I had at least fifteen blank cards, which my wife lovingly inscribed with appropriate verbiage to reduce our need for unused Kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: For awhile now Rio Grande Games has had a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/419-Dominion-Base-cards&quot;&gt;just the Base Cards&lt;/a&gt; for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T19:56:20.313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T19:56:20.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2010-12-27T08:54:57.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best house rule I've played with for large numbers of players is the simultaneous turns rule.  Here, more than one player (up to all players) take their turns simultaneously.  If any play has an attack card, he announces it, waits for all others players to be ready.  (they can do as much or as little of their turns as they'd like, without knowing the attack card). Then the attack is resolved, and play continues of people have buys or actions left.  It's fun and allows dominion to scale quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T08:54:57.853" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2010-12-27T11:52:50.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Descent is a great game, but it's designed to play every level almost from scratch, unlike Hero Quest. While the Road to Legend expansion allows for a campaign, its game play suffers a lot and gets very boring soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike Descent, in Doom you keep your character as the game progresses. It has similar, simpler, rules. If you don't mind dying over and over ^^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T11:52:50.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1952" CreationDate="2010-12-27T13:32:24.467" Score="20" ViewCount="14317" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I got a copy of Small World, and in our first game, the &quot;Amazons&quot; came up early.  According to the rules, they get &quot;+4 when attacking&quot;.  What exactly does that mean?  We argued it out and what we eventually decided it meant was&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each of the Amazon player's turns, they receive 4 extra tokens.  When they end their &quot;conquering regions&quot; step, they remove 4 tokens of their choice from the board, then go on to compute VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we're not at all confident in our interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T19:00:35.490" Title="How does the Amazons &quot;+4 When Attacking&quot; power work?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2010-12-27T13:55:31.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's how it worked in the one game I've played.  At the time I felt like it was incorrect in some subtle way, but since it was my first and only game so far, I'm not sure either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T13:55:31.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-27T15:07:16.217" Score="13" ViewCount="6630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of good things about Puerto Rico, but from the 12-page manual it seems a little complex. I revel in the challenge of learning new and difficult games, but sadly the friends I play with aren't as hardcore as I am and are slightly less inclined to reading gigantic rule books. I have no experience whatsoever with Puerto Rico, and want to get some advice before buying. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How difficult is the game to teach to new players? Can non-board-game-geeks handle it with some good coaching in the beginning? Are there any other games I should be adding to my collection before Puerto Rico if I'm concerned about new player friendliness but still want  a good flexible strategy game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T06:39:02.417" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T07:32:46.877" Title="How difficult is Puerto Rico to learn for first time players?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1964" CreationDate="2010-12-27T15:23:07.683" Score="26" ViewCount="15005" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different variants and expansions for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/a&gt; series, and I'm curious about the differences. I know the standard version and the Europe version differ only by map, but I'm not so sure about the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between the different games? What are there strengths and weaknesses? Is the dice expansion worth getting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking for stuff like player #'s, game length, and any other things that change the experience. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T19:54:27.083" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T23:03:24.217" Title="Are there any differences between the Ticket to Ride games I should take into account when choosing one?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2010-12-27T16:52:21.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; is pretty simple to learn.  The rules are not too complex and the turn actions are pretty straight forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, like most games that have Victory Points, the game can take a few plays until you understand the flow of actions and which moves are &quot;best&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly reccommend this game.  I learned it at lunchtime at the office and, even with experienced players, did pretty well, even tying for the win my third game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T16:22:31.683" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:22:31.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2010-12-27T16:52:47.057" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico is one of those games that if you play a 'sample' round or two, the game mechanics and the different role cards can be quickly learnt. It is also such a great game that first time board gamers get hooked on board games because of it. The mechanics of the game are actually pretty simple, but has a good depth of skill required to be a good player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We often use Puerto Rico as the first game to play with new players. Our second choice is Power Grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T16:52:47.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:02:23.837" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;As ICodeForCoffee said in the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/700/is-bribing-off-the-robber-a-good-addition-to-settlers-of-catan/702#702&quot;&gt;bribing off the Robber&lt;/a&gt;&quot; question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to the rules of Catan, players can't trade unless they're both exchanging resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would seem to be the same issue with the agreement to give extra resources to other players.  They could form an alliance to trade the resources, but not just give the extras &quot;in the future&quot; for a favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T17:02:23.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2010-12-27T17:59:10.860" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amazons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four of your Amazon tokens may only be&#xA;used for conquest, not for defense, as&#xA;indicated by the +4 on the banner itself. So&#xA;you start your initial turn with 10 Amazon&#xA;tokens (plus any additional ones that may&#xA;be granted to you by the Special Power associated with the&#xA;Amazons, depending on your combo). At the end of each of&#xA;your Troop Redeployments (see Troop Redeployment, p. 5),&#xA;remove four tokens from the map, making sure to leave at least&#xA;one Amazon token in each of your Regions if possible, and only&#xA;take these four tokens back in hand to redeploy on the map&#xA;once you Ready your Troops (see Ready your Troops, p. 6) at&#xA;the start of your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2010-12-27T17:59:10.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2010-12-28T00:59:56.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on the group of people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm good at explaining games, and good at streamlining the concepts to make them easy to understand, but Puerto Rico is far, &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; too complex to teach to my parents and many of my friends. They would simply fade out after hearing &quot;there are two ways to earn points.&quot; These are folks who are thrown by the twelve points rule in Qwirkle, and are much more common than you might think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other friends, despite not being boardgame fans, would have no trouble learning the game, and would indeed pick things up after playing a couple of rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use caution and carefully scope out your audience. See if they're fading out and keep them in the explanation by asking if they have any questions so far, what you should cover again, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T00:59:56.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6791" CreationDate="2010-12-28T16:14:02.953" Score="49" ViewCount="60510" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played about 15 games of Seven Wonders now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I ask the winning player why they won, they tend to tell me &lt;b&gt;what&lt;/b&gt; they did rather than &lt;b&gt;why&lt;/b&gt; they did it, and rarely does it involve anything clever.  The smartest thing I've seen a winning player do was start with the board with Glass as a resource and bury to Glass cards to build up his wonder for the first two phases of his wonder.  But winning often is related to things out of your control, such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your neighbor builds up lots of resources so that you can use them for trading.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No other player goes for the same strategy as you so they don't build the cards you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your neighbors build up little military, so you don't need to waste resources contending with them and can still get lots of points from beating them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your neighbors pick the same strategy as each other, so you can get a valuable guild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get access to resources needed to progress through building your wonder early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, Dominion and Race for the Galaxy, both games that I really enjoy, a skilled player can exert a lot of control over the game.  I readily admit luck is a factor in both games, but there is a lot of room for skill to influence the outcome.  Whether its from picking a better strategy from the initial board setup and picking appropriate card counters as the game progresses in Dominion, or building a tableau to mitigate advantages in probable phase selections and choosing actions to counter opponents selections in Race, there is a big return on skill for both of those games.  I just don't see the same room for planning, strategic decisions and maneuvering in Seven Wonders.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T18:44:53.813" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:31:11.937" Title="Is there much strategy and planning in 7-Wonders or is mostly luck?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2010-12-28T17:15:45.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paint a surface blue, and then use Cling-Wrap, slightly crinkled in a regular pattern, glued over the top.  Very fast/cheap, but there are more quality methods available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T17:15:45.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2010-12-28T18:13:37.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty experienced with groups that have a similar play-style to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main deals that strike my groups as unfair are those which are 'kingmakers.' That is, a player is threatening to hand the game to someone else unless a third party gives him something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T18:13:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1958" CreationDate="2010-12-28T18:27:17.123" Score="8" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Christmas, I received &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/73833/agricola-the-goodies-expansion&quot;&gt;Agricola - The Goodies&lt;/a&gt;. It's a fun expansion that provides new themed farm boards, shaped resources and animals, stickers for your people, and four interesting decks of cards. One of the decks is called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/38733/agricola-x-deck&quot;&gt;X-Deck&lt;/a&gt;, and adds random events that trigger when you take stone. Here's one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carbonite Cousin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The family member taking this Action is frozen in Carbonite. He will be rescued during the Returning Home phase 3 rounds from now. At that time, place a Claim marker on any Action space of your choice. At the beginning of the following round, put the Family member on that Action space and carry out the action before the starting player takes his or her first action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have three questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does my Carbonite Cousin need feeding each harvest that he's not in my house? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does he still take up a space in the house (e.g. for family growth)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the game ends before he is rescued, what is his status? Does he still count towards my people score at the end?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T23:51:49.360" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T23:51:49.360" Title="Does my Carbonite Cousin need feeding?" Tags="|agricola|agricola-goodies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-12-28T18:52:00.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt; to all three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would have to be exceptions listed on the card, or in the rules insert to do otherwise.  There are none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can make assumptions based on what we &quot;know&quot; being frozen in carbonite means, however the current game rules do not support that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T18:52:00.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2010-12-28T19:22:33.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror is an interesting game in that it lies partway between a traditional board game and a full-on role-playing experience. The atmosphere of the game and the shared imagination of the players is much more important than in games like Agricola or Ticket to Ride, which are dominated by the rules mechanics. It also takes quite a long time to play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more players, it's critical to keep people enthused and involved. This requires active work, by you, if you're the host! Here are the main things I think about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Set the atmosphere.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I like to dim the lights and play horror movie soundtracks. It's obvious, cliched - and fun!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Identify with your characters.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; We always read out our investigator's back-stories and special rules. And if your players actually talk and act in character, then the game comes alive! If you can provide props or dress up, so much the better. If your players feel like they can relate to and care about their protagonist, they will be much more involved in the game. Staying in character also gives players something to think about when it's not their turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Identify with shared goals.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; If your players feel that they are working together for a common goal, then other player's turns immediately feel more interesting. If the players have the nervous sense that this move is important, then they will certainly pay attention! You want to make them feel that they and their teammates are playing for high stakes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know your rules.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Nothing kills a game like being bogged down searching for rules clarifications, or having long protracted arguments about ambiguous phrasing. Make sure you have a good grasp of the rules, and if necessary enforce rules decisions to keep the game moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep the game moving.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Some people like to carefully think through every permutation. Some people love calculating attack modifiers. Some people don't care, and want to just CHARGE at the nearest big looking monster. Some people just want to do random cool stuff, infuriating the other players. Striking the right balance between personalities, and gently nudging people along is very necessary. It's similar to chairing a meeting. Do it well, and no one will notice, but everyone will feel the experience &quot;went well&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Read all the cards out yourself.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I recommend doing all the reading yourself. It's much faster than passing cards around, and you can add tension and atmosphere by reading dramatically. Your idea of not reading the whole card out is a good one, but does depend on the situation. Remember that some cards in Arkham are optional tests, while others are mandatory. In the optional cases, your player is going to want to know what the risk/reward stakes are. In the mandatory case, it's more fun to drag out the suspense...!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Apply house rules to improve the game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Game designer Richard Launius has provided some excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/House%20Rules%20RL.pdf&quot;&gt;house rules&lt;/a&gt; which are well worth reading. These can adjust the speed and/or difficulty of the game as needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take breaks.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; If your players are getting tired or bored, take a break, make some drinks, or agree to resume some other time. Don't turn finishing the game into a death march.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actively manage the game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; This is the critical one. If you're hosting a large number of players, you need to run the game. This is quite a lot of work, but rewarding. Remember that the aim of the game is for everyone to have fun. Even if you are playing an investigator, you still have the extra responsibility for the game experience itself. The ideal game will be tense, nerve-wracking, involve some hardship and sacrifice, but ultimately a positive experience. You want your players to go away feeling they had an adventure, and did well, whether or not they ultimately win. Consider bending the rules where necessary to achieve this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T19:22:33.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2010-12-28T19:41:37.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on the newer Ticket to Ride editions, but you should know the original and Europe have a few differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Europe edition includes ferry and tunnel routes that have special rules about claiming them.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/content/rules_te&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/content/rules_te&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The original edition comes with small cards that I find a bit clumsy to shuffle. The 1910 expansion entirely replaces the small cards with large ones, and subsequent editions including Europe come with large cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Days of Wonder website provides Flash-based versions of several ticket to ride games, which would let you try before you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="653" LastActivityDate="2010-12-28T19:41:37.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2010-12-29T01:09:12.880" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;7 Wonders is a very different kind of game than Race or Dominion.  Race &amp;amp; Dominion are both &quot;group solitare&quot; games.  By that I mean that there is little one can do to affect one's opponent.  The game is mostly your own strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 Wonders is strictly an &quot;adaptive&quot; game. You cannot go in with any kind of strategy; even choosing wonders is random according to the rules.  Every decision you make affects all other opponents, neighbors more than the others.  If you don't take that into account, by, say knowing &quot;I'm going to pass these 6 cards, and I know my left neighbor will likely choose this card, so I should choose to do X&quot;, then yes, the game will feel random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest criticism of this type of game is that weak players give other players big advantages.  If you want to enjoy 7 wonders, play with people who know the game well, start thinking about everyone's tactics not just your own, and stop worrying about strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2010-12-29T16:38:18.867" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T16:38:18.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1947" CreationDate="2010-12-29T04:03:53.737" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original and Europe versions differ HUGELY, it's not just a different board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US version is the simplest formulation of the game.  It accommodates up to 5 players, I believe, and it'd be a great one to play with non-boardgame-obsessed family members, including the old and the young.  It's still got a great deal of strategy and depth to it once you know where to look, but it won't turn off anyone who can handle Monopoly, Scrabble or Risk.  (The 1910 expansion adds less unwieldy cards and a few new variants, but keeps things maximally simple and elegant.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Europe version is also good for large groups but takes the complexity level up a notch.  Now you have to deal with concepts such as tunnels, ferries and stations, which severely alter the dynamics of collecting cards and claiming routes.  It's a more gamer-y Ticket to Ride which I would probably recommended over the US version to anyone who plays with mostly hardened gamers.  The 1912 expansion offers variants at a similar complexity level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played the Marklin (German) edition but I believe it's got extra twists over the US version that probably put it on about a par with the European set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; played with the Nordic Countries edition and it's my personal favourite.  The caveat here is: it's only for 2 or 3 players, so don't get it if you need to regularly cater to a larger group!  It is even more complex than Europe, with a lot of exceptions to the normal rules that are pretty hard to grasp on the first play - but it's perfectly balanced and my wife and I come back to it again and again.  The Switzerland game is another 2-3 player outing, and again I haven't actually played this one, but most of what I've seen written about it suggests that most people prefer Nordic Countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T04:03:53.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1944" CreationDate="2010-12-29T04:09:30.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds right to me.  Compare and contrast to the Ratmen, who get 8 men both &quot;on attack&quot; and &quot;on defense&quot;, as it were.  The Amazons are balanced with that race by getting 2 more men (women?) to attack with... but 2 fewer to defend with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I started thinking about it that way, it became obviously right that the Amazons should attack with 10 but only defend with 6: the numbers match up nicely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T04:09:30.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-12-29T09:04:01.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Does my Carbonite Cousin need feeding each harvest that he's not in my house?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  He's frozen in carbonite.  As Threepio says &quot;He should be quite well-protected -- if he survives the freezing process, that is.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 Does he still take up a space in the house (e.g. for family growth)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  As Han Solo said, the point is: &quot;To freeze a being solid, then hang him on a wall like some trophy?&quot;.  Wall art doesn't need a bedroom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 If the game ends before he is rescued, what is his status? Does he still count towards my people score at the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, as Leia says: &quot;He's trapped in that thing forever unless somebody releases him.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Carbon_freezing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wookiepedia&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T23:03:23.070" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T23:03:23.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1972" CreationDate="2010-12-29T14:23:27.950" Score="14" ViewCount="13310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess this varies a lot from game to game, but I've seen everything from 120 to 360 minutes, and wondered where the average lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's closer to 360, I don't think I will bother to buy it. I know how rarely Axis &amp;amp; Allies is taken out of its box...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="469" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-10-15T06:46:45.857" LastActivityDate="2021-03-14T01:19:22.573" Title="How long does it take to play Diplomacy?" Tags="|diplomacy|play-time|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2010-12-29T14:58:36.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that its about 5 hours on average.  Its not that the game ends at that point so much as the game is agreed to be a foregone conclusion by that point, even when it might not have been, due to fatigue/disillusionment from the players :P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T14:58:36.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:02:05.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt; has user reviews for the vast majority of their products, and they also sell board games.  Some of the most well-written reviews I've seen for games has been on their Amazon page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T15:02:05.553" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2010-12-29T15:02:05.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experiences have been varied, but much like @GWLlosa, I have found it to be, at a minimum, 5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We often take a weekend day - say a Saturday or a Friday holiday off of work - to play the game.  This way we can start around 10 AM, have lunch in the middle, dinner later and then stop whenever people are done.  It is a fun, quality game, just one I never plan on finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I have heard of (but never been a part of) cut throat groups where the game goes much faster, but I think you have to have a group of people who are willing to backstab at the right times, and are willing to betray alliances for a win, something that tends to be less common amongst friends in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T15:02:05.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2005" CreationDate="2010-12-29T16:46:31.850" Score="17" ViewCount="7188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason why &lt;strong&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/strong&gt; wouldn't be able to handle 5 or maybe even 6 players with some simple variants. Does anyone have any experience with different player numbers with some wisdom to pass on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be slightly harder to gather the required 4 treasure cards at one person, but there would be more people total to trade with. The island would sink faster and it would take longer for a certain critical player to have their turn, even though the navigator and helicopter can move anyone. How can these disadvantages be offset to keep the game strong and sufficiently difficult?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:06:59.347" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:16:30.857" Title="Does Forbidden Island usually need any rule variants for playing with 5+ people?" Tags="|house-rules|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2010-12-29T18:47:32.987" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Odds are that you're not going to want to get it (which is tragic, as it's a great game), since it's a long-play game.  I've found that a game typically takes 4 hours or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, new player groups and experienced player groups will typically take about the same amount of time.  New players take time because they're figuring out the rules, but they're not going to be nearly as Machiavellian.  Experienced players take time because they're creating plots within plots and being devious, which leads to protracted engagements on multiple fronts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to make a game of Diplomacy cruise along, I recommend the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Have an experienced player resolve all orders at the end of each turn.  That helps speed things along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Set a solid time limit for each turn, like five minutes.  Five minutes is very long for the first three or four turns, but by the eighth turn it's barely enough time to write your orders.  Yes, setting a time limit impairs your ability to engage in negotiations, but it'll make the game end in a reasonable amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option:  Play in one-hour (or two-hour) sessions.  Leave the board set up between sessions.  Long ago, I made a copy of the board, mounted it on foam-core, and stuck color-coded push-pins in it to &quot;save&quot; the state of the board between games.  Something nice about this is that you can do all the diplomacy and negotiation you want to, and you can engage in diplomacy between games.  That's a big part of Diplomacy (go figure), and can make for a really fun experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T18:47:32.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1957" CreationDate="2010-12-29T19:23:04.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know The Goodies is &quot;just a bit of fun&quot; compared to, say, Farmers of the Moor, but I simply can't believe that Carbonite Cousin is meant to work as per the phrasing above.  Losing a family member FOR THREE ROUNDS - four rounds, if the initial action taken stopped the family member from doing something actually useful - is in no way compensated for by a one-shot Taster-type action four rounds later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure: I don't actually own The Goodies yet.  Am I missing a whole bunch of new rules that would help this card make any kind of sense &lt;em&gt;in terms of the Agricola rules&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, here's how I would make this card remotely playable.  Obviously, none of your Family Members are &quot;cousins&quot;.  The first two are man and wife, the others are their children, and marryin' cousins may be legal in some parts, but not in my neck of the woods.  Ergo, the Carbonite &lt;strong&gt;Cousin&lt;/strong&gt; cannot be an actual family member.  I would rule that the Carbonite Cousin be represented by a Guest Token, that is rescued three turns later and carries out an action out of gratitude the turn after that, as per the card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This eliminates any worries about whether the Cousin needs feeding and accommodating, whether he scores points at the end of the game, and whether he has to go to the Infirmary if his carbonite prison is not heated for a turn.  Even more pertinently, it turns the card into something that might be playable by someone other than a total Star Wars obsessive!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T19:23:04.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:28:11.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in other answers, 4-5 hours is an accurate average length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also go as far to say that 1/2 of all games are never 'officially' complete - more often a leading player and assumed winner is agreed upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd argue strongly that neither points detract from the game, it's length and involvement is half the fun - but if you don't feel you have that sort of time to invest, it may be worth avoiding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth pointing out that Diplomacy has a lot less pieces to wrestle with than Axis &amp;amp; Allies and to a certain extent, an easier ruleset to learn. Its slow point is diplomacy, which is easier to tweak, rather than the (very fiddly) physical move phases of Axis &amp;amp; Allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2010-12-31T10:38:17.050" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T10:38:17.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-12-29T21:38:48.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Totally missed when you gave the link to the rules.  That helped out a bunch.&lt;/strong&gt;  As I understand it, &lt;strong&gt;Cripple Mr. Onion&lt;/strong&gt; plays out much like Blackjack in that each player bets individually against the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a difference in that the dealer is a player too and the position of dealer is bid for each round.  I don't think that makes a ton of difference to what I'm proposing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up with 7 or less people you should do one table and one round.  At the end of the time, players are ranked by the number of chips that they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have more than 7 people you will need 2 rounds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the players up into X groups of Y people.  X and Y should both be between 3 and 7 (inclusive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split your available time in half, reserve 10 minutes for a break during which the chips will be counted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the first time period, the person with the highest chip count at each table will move on to the finals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the finals, collect all the chips and redistribute them evenly.  (You don't want someone who had an extremely weak first table having too much of an advantage in the finals)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the finals, players are ranked by the number of chips that they have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example, you have 20 people.  The first round will be 5 tables of 4 people.  The finals will then be one table of 5 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2010-12-29T21:38:48.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2167" CreationDate="2010-12-29T23:46:59.273" Score="7" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're playing our yearly Advanced Civilization game this Saturday, and we may have 9 people.  Does anyone have any 9-player rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have all the extension maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T02:54:50.850" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T08:43:04.963" Title="9-player Advanced Civilization rules" Tags="|house-rules|advanced-civilization|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2533" CreationDate="2010-12-30T02:00:13.363" Score="19" ViewCount="18014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other questions have asserted that many people don't actually auction properties as instructed in the rules.  Monopoly doesn't specify any rules to control the auction.  I have seen auctions stretch on with many +$1 bids, making the process painfully slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to me some combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/bid-increments.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eBay bid increments&lt;/a&gt; and/or Poker raise rules would be appropriate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What minimum bid increment rule(s) are recommended?&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Do these rule(s) lead to faster auctions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="299" LastEditDate="2018-01-19T15:01:13.963" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T05:03:58.847" Title="Minimum bid rule for Monopoly auctions" Tags="|house-rules|monopoly|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1978" CreationDate="2010-12-30T03:23:00.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing for &quot;fun&quot;, as I typically do, we set the minimum bid to be face value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, set a minimum increase bid of $5 or $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T03:23:00.830" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="910" CreationDate="2010-12-30T04:34:15.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Pat Ludwig states, position is important in the game.  So you always want each table to play a full round so everyone plays from all the good and poor positions.  Pat Ludwig's suggestions are good advice under the assumption that you want a quick tournament and that all players arrive on time for the start.&#xA;Fitting all the matches into an appropriate amount of time is a key success factor for a tournament director.  Plan your rounds starting from final table backwards.  I will assume this game takes ~10 minutes / player / round once everone knows the rules. Under the assumption that you have a little more time, I perfer a drop the low men approach.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like having your final table start with a full seven players.  Drop from 1 to 4 players after each round depending on time available.&#xA;For early to middle rounds in a really large tourneyment, I would suggest around four or five players to a table.  More players makes the rounds slower, fewer players makes the outcome too dependent who you face in the round.&#xA;Each assignment of players should play exactly once around then break for new assignments.  Drop X players after the round then reassign seeding by chip count.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my example 20 player 4+ hour tournament would be:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;First round  5 tables of 4 (~ 45 minutes)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Second round 4 tables of 4 (~ 45 minutes)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Third round  4 tables of 3 (~ 30 minutes)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Fourth round 1 table of 7 (~75 minutes)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Fifth round 1 table of 5 (~50 minutes)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Sixth round 1 table of 3 (continue as time allows, place per chip count at end of scheduled time)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to allow participation by late arrivers, here are some ideas:&#xA;1. Reserve a table for late arrivers.  But don't wait too long to get this table started.&#xA;2. Have players pair up for an initial seeding round as they arrive.  Only play two hands in this fashion use chip count to seed players for the initial full tables of the tourneyment.  This allows some time for late arrivers and helps insure that folks know the rules, before the beginners slow down a larger group.&#xA;3. In addition, Charge some minor fine on initial buy in for late arrivals.  Probably a little less than 1% per minute late.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial seeding is also a significant fairness factor.  Each starting table should have an even mix of beginners and experienced plays to the greatest extent possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="299" LastEditDate="2011-01-01T20:01:21.163" LastActivityDate="2011-01-01T20:01:21.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1967" CreationDate="2010-12-30T17:41:00.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the consensus opinion is: yes, it definitely will take you a whole day to get through a game of Diplomacy - why not play it as a PBM (or PBEM, or whatever kids are calling it these days) instead?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because something comes with a physical board doesn't mean you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to gather your friends and sit round a table.  A Diplomacy game is quite an undertaking, but you needn't complete it in one gruelling sitting.  Amortize the endless wrangling and backroom deals over a period of weeks - the thrill of finally backstabbing your &quot;dearest allies&quot; will stay just as sweet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T17:41:00.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2010-12-30T19:03:05.480" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played several times now - always with six to seven players - so I have a few thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Go with one major strategy and one minor strategy (Ex: Primary red, secondary blue.).  Which ones to go with varies from game to game of course, but blue is often ignored and easy to go with (especially if you're focusing on building off of prerequisites instead of using resources).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why?  Because you're spreading your risk.  Also, players tend to not have a strong strategy, and their scores suffer for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Science (green) is worth crazy points, and is often easy to sneak past your opponents. For reasons I don't understand, players tend to pay too much attention to your resources, and your warfare icons, and overlook the science icons. When in doubt, go for green as your primary strategy.  This is doubly true if your neighbors keep passing it to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The primary mechanics of the game are card drafting, followed by set collection.  If some of the players are weaker at card drafting than others, the players they're passing cards to have an advantage.  If the players receiving cards are very good at card drafting, they're going to do well.  Consequently, if you're playing in a group of unequally skilled card drafters, you should watch what everyone is laying out, make a point of pointing out players who are doing especially well (especially in green), and (however uncouth it may be) offer advice on what not to pass that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Money is worth points at the end of the game, and resources are useful during play, so it's worthwhile to have a lot of resources that you (and your neighbors) can use.  Money they give you turns into victory points later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) 7 Wonders is very much about assessing what you've been given, what your neighbors are ignoring, and what you'll be able to build into later.  Like I said above, it's a card-drafting game; if you understand card drafting, you'll do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Unless they fall into your lap, you can largely ignore red cards. Warfare doesn't net you massive points. On its own, a perfect warfare score will net you 18 points. Similar effort in other areas (green, blue) typically does better.  If you ignore it and fail as completely as possible, you'll net negative six points.  Typically, if you ignore it, at least one neighbor will also and you'll net negative three points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and that's pretty much what I have to say on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-30T19:03:05.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1991" CreationDate="2010-12-30T20:46:55.467" Score="13" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to decide if I should get the pandemic expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40849/pandemic-on-the-brink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on the brink.&lt;/a&gt; Here's the obvious advantages I can see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lets you play with 5 people&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adds some variety with new cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;options to make the game harder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything else I should know before buying on the brink? Does it add enough to pandemic that its worth getting even instead of an entirely new game? Does it really make the game last about 15 minutes longer? Does it give the opportunity to stretch the game to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1679/how-can-i-play-pandemic-with-6-players&quot;&gt;6 or 7 people without breaking?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T13:42:27.183" Title="What changes to the game will the &quot;On The Brink&quot; Pandemic expansion offer me?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-30T20:51:03.997" Score="20" ViewCount="2851" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously anything that puts curses into circulation would be anathema. I'm not necessarily looking for one player to have the highest score possible, so much as to have games where everyone's scores where really high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure Monument is obvious, and Great Hall, Island, etc. seem like they might also contribute to a high scoring game. &#xA;On the other hand if there are tons of non-terminal action cards and Vinyards that could lead to some pretty ridiculous scores as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T13:56:02.013" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T20:39:11.597" Title="What kingdom set would lead to the highest scoring games of Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6035" CreationDate="2010-12-31T01:48:02.523" Score="13" ViewCount="2268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to play the Catan Card Game more often than I can find someone with the patience to play it with me. I know there are some good solitaire rules for Settlers of Catan, but are there any for the Catan Card Game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="604" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T18:35:43.173" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T19:38:25.040" Title="Solitaire rules for Catan Card Game?" Tags="|house-rules|catan-card-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1984" CreationDate="2010-12-31T02:44:32.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick &quot;bonus&quot; from the revised game: It adds many new Roles, and upgrades one of them (the green one - I don't remember its name off the top of my head, but it lets you build operation centers wherever you are without spending a card).  That added a lot of value to the game for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T02:44:32.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1988" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2010-12-31T04:53:01.987" Score="11" ViewCount="16889" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's a good strategy game for 8 players? Many games can be played by 8 players, but suffer from a loss of pace, and long waits between turns. What games have parallel planning phases, or lots of interaction during turns? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for games that can safely be called strategy games, so apples to apples and some other party games don't really count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically an extension of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/276/recommendations-for-6-player-board-game&quot;&gt;this question for 6 players.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:06:11.457" Title="What are some good 8 player games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:29:08.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2010-12-31T05:26:03.463" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to do some analysis of games on the online dominion server at &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org&quot;&gt;http://dominion.isotropic.org&lt;/a&gt;.  The top 5 scoring games there all involve a combination of Goons and King's Court.  These are all solo games where people are trying to run up the score, so they aren't representative.  But from my experience, Colony, Goons, Vineyard, Bishop, Duke, and Gardens all contribute to really high scores in real games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101203-054736-3036b544.html.gz&quot;&gt;2941&lt;/a&gt;  Alchemist, City, Colony, Gardens, Goons, Grand Market, King's Court, Platinum, Potion, Steward, Throne Room, Vineyard, and Watchtower&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101110-210617-34546c57.html.gz&quot;&gt; 2760&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Ambassador, Bridge, Chapel, City, Council Room, Goons, King's Court, Throne Room, Watchtower, and Worker's Village&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101109-142833-d59e770a.html.gz&quot;&gt; 2722&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Bishop, Bridge, City, Colony, Council Room, Fishing Village, Goons, King's Court, Monument, Platinum, Wharf, and Worker's Village&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101118-145010-0ffca21d.html.gz&quot;&gt; 2681&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Bazaar, Bishop, Chapel, Colony, Council Room, Goons, Grand Market, King's Court, Market, Platinum, Throne Room, and Wharf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101116-192315-fc1ac214.html.gz&quot;&gt; 2625&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Bishop, Black Market, Bridge, Caravan, City, Colony, Goons, King's Court, Monument, Platinum, Throne Room, and Wharf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2012-02-06T05:07:13.140" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T05:07:13.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="1990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2010-12-31T10:23:08.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the highest scoring games I saw recently involved King's Court, Bridge, and Chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it may not seem that important, Chapel is a key cornerstone to a high-scoring game.  It allows you to get rid of your lower value cards, such as Coppers and Estates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King's Court and Bridge is obscenely powerful.  Together, they give you +3 Coin, +3 Buy, and every card costs 3 less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that Colony costs 8 to buy, Province costs 5 to buy, Duchy costs 2 to buy... and you have at least 4 buys.  Along with high-value coins, this has great benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards that can help you start this process earlier are Quarry, Contraband (until your opponents figure out what you're doing), and Tactician.  These cards can be trashed later with the Chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Village, Fishing Village, Mining Village, Worker Village, Fesitval, or Bazaar can all be useful as well, due to their +2 Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that gives you extra cards is a necessity for this strategy... Council Room or Library in particular.  Minion &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work, but at the expense of having to discard your other cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other misc cards that can help include: Royal Seal, Watchtower, Bank... basically anything that gives you lots of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you'd need 30 or more &lt;em&gt;actions&lt;/em&gt; for each Vineyard to be equal in value to a Colony, so you may want to skip it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2010-12-31T10:30:12.517" LastActivityDate="2010-12-31T10:30:12.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1984" CreationDate="2010-12-31T10:59:06.340" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer all your questions, but not in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things you should know:  Also adds some rather nice storage trays for the viruses, and some smaller pawns (including for the original base roles) which fit on the board better.  All of this stuff will &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; fit in the original box, but only if you're good at packing (the virus trays could actually do to be about 10% smaller).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new roles add significant variation to the base game even without using any of the other new mechanics in the set.  (There's also a reprinted Operations Expert card with revised wording, which I recommend also using for the base game.)  It becomes tempting to add house rules for how you select powers; there's one new power that's related to (but a major variation on) each of the original roles, and some completely unrelated new roles on top.  This means that purely random draw can, if you're unlucky, produce some very odd or tricky mixes.  (Some groups, of course, prefer it that way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansion makes the game last longer only if you're using the new disease variants.  The bioterrorist option in particular takes longer, as it adds a hunt-the-hidden-player mechanic (a little bit like Fury of Dracula).  Mutating diseases add a little more complexity and hence a few minutes more playtime.  (They also make it harder, so they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; dramatically shorten the playtime...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the variations on disease - and hence a lot of the set content - make the game more difficult. So if you regularly find Pandemic challenging, consider carefully: you might have trouble using some of the material without making it &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question you linked addresses 6-7 players better than I can here. Short form: it works, but not at all well unless you add house rules to cope with the massive difficulty increase.  (Personally, I'd always rather play something else with 6 or 7; Pandemic really wasn't designed for it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Personal opinion: I found it to be fun, but expensive for the amount of content.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it add enough that it's worth getting instead of an entirely new game?  Depends how much you play Pandemic.  If you play intermittently or are still finding the base game surprising you, probably not; use the revised Ops Expert wording and get another small game instead.  If you play Pandemic regularly and feel like you've seen all the base game has to offer, it's definitely worth getting.  If you regularly beat the pants off Pandemic and want some more challenging options, grab it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T13:42:27.183" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T13:42:27.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="1993" CreationDate="2011-01-01T21:51:51.997" Score="15" ViewCount="8233" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine got &lt;strong&gt;Dominion&lt;/strong&gt; for Christmas, and while the game plays wonderfully (I'm &lt;em&gt;hooked&lt;/em&gt;), we were both confused by the randomizer deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are there Curse, Copper, Silver, Gold, and victory point cards in the randomizer deck, when they're needed for &lt;strong&gt;every game&lt;/strong&gt;?  We figured out we would remove those cards from the randomizer deck before dealing out 10 of the Kingdom cards to set up the game, but why bother having the above-named cards in the deck in the first place?  Are we missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T13:55:53.073" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T16:28:37.350" Title="Dominion randomizer deck confusion" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1992" CreationDate="2011-01-01T21:59:41.560" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't use them to randomize.  Use one of the online card pickers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/355/what-is-the-best-random-card-setup-tool&quot;&gt;What is the Best Random Card Setup Tool?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use them as the last card in their respective stacks.  They are used to indicate that the stack has run out so that it is easier to know how close the game is to ending.  @krisa suggests that if you use sleeves to use a different colored sleeve for the randomizer cards.  This will make it much easier to keep them separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pg. 5 of the rules says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may also use the Randomizer cards&#xA;  as Placeholders to mark the card piles so&#xA;  empty piles are easily seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T22:28:28.583" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2011-01-02T05:26:00.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanics are not that difficult but the feeling that a newbie has no clue how to play well is intimidating. I always make sure that they understand that the first few turns don't really matter that much (in a newbie game) and that they'll get the hang of if in a couple of turns. They should just let the complexity wash over them for a couple of rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TRIVIA: The one rule that NO ONE remembers at first is that you can't have two of the same building. I make a point of telling them and adding &quot;...you'll deny that I told you this rule&quot;. They still deny it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T05:26:00.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2011-01-02T05:37:39.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not go with Hearts as it is almost &lt;strong&gt;the opposite&lt;/strong&gt; of a trick-taking game. The point is not to take tricks and the strategy is quite different from most trick-taking game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played a game as a kids called simply &quot;trumps&quot;. 7 cards each. Turn over the top card of the deck. Its suit is trumps. Whoever gets the most tricks is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next up in complexity (and way, way up in fun) is &quot;contract whist&quot;. 7 cards each. Hearts are trumps. Each player specifies a contract (how many tricks they will win) in order (contracts can't add to 7, so at least one player will not make theirs). Play the hand. 1 point for each trick with a bonus of 10 if you make your contract EXACTLY. Repeat with 6 cards each (clubs are trumps). Continue down to 1 card each cycling through the suit - H, C, D, S, NT - which is trumps. Most points at the end is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The queen of trick-taking games - better than bridge (really!) - is Nomination Whist. It's pretty much The Official Card Game of the Royal Navy and is always played for beer. Sadly, I don't have many card-playing friends these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="283" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T05:37:39.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2001" CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:36:39.417" Score="22" ViewCount="6301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throne Room: &quot;Choose any action in your hand and play it twice&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feast: &quot;Trash this card and gain a card costing up to 5$&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I use the Throne Room and play Feast twice. The first time it gets played it gets trashed and I gain a card up to five. The second time its played the Feast card is in the trash, and to play a Feast it needs to get trashed to gain a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recall the rules say something like when you play an action you must follow as many of the rules as you can, so I assume you would just trash the one Feast and gain 2 cards up to 5$. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T15:51:18.780" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T11:15:46.030" Title="Dominion: what happens when I play Throne Room on a Feast since Feast gets trashed when played?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2074" CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:47:01.497" Score="30" ViewCount="48385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot about the different Dominion expansions, but I'm still not really sure which direction to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what order would you suggest I buy the expansions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each one change the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what different behavior/strategies does each one promote?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-02T15:49:53.710" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T16:20:51.397" Title="I have the Dominion base set only, in what order should I buy the expansions?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-prosperity|dominion-seaside|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1996" CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:48:10.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first time Feast is played, it is moved to the trash, and you get a card costing up to 5. Then, Feast goes (stays) in the trash, and you get a card costing up to 5. In Dominion, the only times one instruction on a card is dependent on another (that I can think of) is when it's prefaced by something like &quot;If you do, &quot;, as in Moneylender, or when the following instruction calculates based off the preceding one, as in Remodel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T15:48:10.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="1999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1996" CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:48:34.550" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gain two cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, pg5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you use Throne Room on Feast, you will&#xA;  gain two cards, even though you can only trash Feast once.&#xA;  Gaining the card isn't contingent on trashing Feast; they're just&#xA;  two things that the card tries to make you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @MagRoader &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1996/dominion-what-happens-when-i-play-throne-room-on-a-feast-since-feast-gets-trashe/2001#2001&quot;&gt;pointed out&lt;/a&gt;, the general rule is on page 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player may still play an Action card even if he is not able to do everything the Action card tells him to do; but the player must do as much as he can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore the gaining of a card is not dependent on the trashing of the Feast (obviously you can't trash one card twice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T16:09:27.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1997" CreationDate="2011-01-02T15:55:52.830" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already answered this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1662/how-does-intrigue-change-your-general-dominion-strategy/1678#1678&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the other answers on that page are very good, but specific to Intrigue. If you have a friend you always play with who is getting Intrigue, I would get Seaside first. If not, get Intrigue first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T15:55:52.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1996" CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:04:32.263" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other answerers have written, the end result is you gain 2 cards (costing up to 5) and the Feast goes to the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general idea I like to remember is on page 6 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player may still play an Action card even if he is not able to do everything the Action card tells him to do; but the player &lt;strong&gt;must do as much as he can&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just this rule you can see what the result is of playing Throne Room + Feast - do everything the card tells you to that you can do... twice. (In this case, Trash the Feast and gain the 2 cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also covers several other tricky scenarios - for example, playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/scans/intrigue/upgrade.jpg&quot;&gt;Upgrade&lt;/a&gt; to trash a Copper. In this case, you will gain nothing because no card costs exactly 1 (unless you also played a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/scans/intrigue/bridge.jpg&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt; earlier that turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T11:15:46.030" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T11:15:46.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2013" CreationDate="2011-01-02T16:09:41.680" Score="11" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started with &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1350/games-that-are-quick-to-teach-to-new-people-yet-still-fun-and-strategical&quot;&gt;this question about good games for new players&lt;/a&gt; and got plenty of good answers. But now I want to look at things from the other end and figure which games I should definitely avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about buying Power Grid, Puerto Rico, and Arkham Horror to play with my family because they have tons of good reviews and are widespread. But when I asked if they would be a good choice at our local game store I was told to steer away from them due to complexity, and it seems there aren't many reviews on the complexity of games and friendliness to new people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love board games to death, and when I see a 40 page manual I think 'bring it on!' and have no trouble sitting there for a half hour learning to play the game.  Many of my friends aren't as hardcore, and they start to get bored if we don't get started in 15 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good ways to recognize if a game is probably not suitable for non board game enthusiasts? The outside of the box is usually unhelpful, and it can be difficult to figure this out before actually buying the game. Sadly I don't live very near a board-game store, so I can't try all of them out. If you list a game, please include &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; it doesn't meet the criteria, how this can be recognized, and its implications for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:57:18.800" Title="How can I recognize games I should avoid buying if I only play with non-hardcore gamers?" Tags="|complexity|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-01-02T22:14:57.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first and only game of Agricola involved about 30 minutes of setup and explanation before we got going.  It took a few turns to get the hang of it, and I think that's got to be on the short side of average.  I have two things going for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm probably more of a &quot;hard-core&quot; gamer than it sounds like your friends are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've played several games of Twilight Imperium, so I'm used to the core mechanic of choosing an action that no one else can do that round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/556118/five-things-to-know-if-you-are-considering-agricol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this review&lt;/a&gt; sums it up nicely.  Agricola is not a game your friends will be used to.  For starters, there's no direct interaction between players.  And the sheer volume of choices is likely to put unprepared players into a daze.  So if you're thinking about buying it specifically to play with that one group of friends, I'd recommend you stay away.  I'm not sure they'll like it enough to keep playing until they figure it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-02T22:14:57.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1971" CreationDate="2011-01-02T23:09:43.307" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the first reshuffle of the Treasure deck, go down to drawing only 1 Treasure card per turn. Since you'll have all the cards drawn fairly quickly, the challenge becomes maneuvering them to the right player. Usually by the time you get through the entire deck this way you've gotten at least one treasure and discarded the 4 cards, which means you won't have every single card be a &quot;Waters Rise!&quot;. This should let you play with 5 people just fine, and possibly 6 if you start at novice level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to do a little bit more work, you can beef up the game itself. This will give results closer to the feel of the original game. Keep using the rule I mentioned above! Here's what you'll need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 new treasure and 5 treasure cards for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 extra tiles and their flood cards. 4 of them are just normal tiles. 2 of them correspond to the 5th treasure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use index cards to make the tiles and regular playing cards for the flood and treasure cards. The four aces are the flood cards for the 4 new normal tiles, the King of Spades and King of Hearts are the flood cards for the 2 5th treasure tiles. 2-6 of Hearts are the treasure cards for the 5th treasure. Yes, it does look a little shoddy to have regular playing cards mixed in with the deck, but it works just fine and I've found it rarely hurts the gaming experience. If this still bothers you, just sleeve all the cards.This will let you handle 5 people just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play with 6 people, add &lt;strong&gt;one more card of each of the 5 colors&lt;/strong&gt;, so there will be 6 cards of each color. I  just used a marker to color some normal playing cards to match the others. Since you now have added cards for the new 5th treasure and the old treasures, the issue of knowing exactly what's coming up by what the card back looks like is reduced. I also recommend that you allow players to either give or take a treasure card from another player on the same tile for an action, instead of allowing giving only. This lessens the time spent waiting to get to the right player's turn. I have played this 6 player variant several times with great success, to the point where I actually prefer to play with 6 people to playing with less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play with 7 people, add another card of each color to the deck, so there are 7 of each color. I have not play-tested very often with 7, so I assume that the game starts to fall apart a little more, but it should still be playable. The nice thing about cooperatives is that you can have some players control 1 pawn as a team. Our groups tend to make decisions as a group often enough that we rarely notice that there are less pawns than players. If you need to support 7, you can choose if you want to try the 7 pawn rules or the 6 pawn with one team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tend to give good results as they keep the game fairly balanced. Having a bigger island suits extra players better as you have a better ratio of Waters Rise! to treasures and more island no-sink time. You'll have to plan a little more as you'll end up farther away from each other. The degradation of the island is more interesting as you can have bigger holes in the center. You can even start changing the shape of the island for extra fun. I will be posting a list of new roles shortly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to post any question, comments, or reviews of these rules if you've played with them. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2330" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T14:16:30.857" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:16:30.857" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-02T23:09:43.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:56:28.343" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you stipulate that a player must buy a card when he can, a two-player game with Monuments and Ambassadors could go on indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T03:56:28.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-03T03:58:59.167" Score="12" ViewCount="4621" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were confused by the + action cards.  It says you have to start at the top of the card and work your way down. so when do you play a second action card and are you allowed to play another action card if you havent done everything on the first action card.  Also, can you total up all of the extra coins on all of your action cards and combine them for one buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Andy" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-03T05:07:34.597" LastActivityDate="2017-12-05T17:16:49.427" Title="How are + Action cards used in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2007" CreationDate="2011-01-03T04:15:37.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an answer to your second question:  Yes, you should total all the coins on your (action) cards and combine them for your buy or buys.  (Note that you resolve buys &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; resolving actions.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T04:15:37.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2007" CreationDate="2011-01-03T05:05:26.500" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a +Action card do not resolve the extra action until the current card is finished.  From pg. 7 of the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It does not mean play another Action immediately. The&#xA;  instructions on the current Action card must be completed before playing&#xA;  any additional Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should total up all the extra coins on the cards you've played for one purchase unless you have played cards with + Buys.  (You don't have to spend everything you've gained in each turn BTW). (also page 7, under Buy Phase)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player may play&#xA;  some or all of the Treasure cards from his hand to his play area&#xA;  and add to their value the coins provided by Action cards played&#xA;  this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T05:05:26.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2007" CreationDate="2011-01-03T05:09:00.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should think of actions, coins and buys as value stores that you add to and subtract from throughout your turn by doing certain things. So, you start your turn with the ability to play 1 action and perform 1 buy. Playing Village costs you 1 action (bringing you down to 0), but adds 2 back, meaning you now have 2 actions available. Playing Smithy costs an action, bringing you down to 1, and you could still afford to play another card. But Village increments the value so you can play the actions after you finish playing the Village, as opposed to being forced to play them immediately. Similarly, buying a card costs a buy and a specific number of coins. If you've played actions that gave you +1 buy and +5 coins in total, and you have a Silver, you can afford to buy up to 2 cards worth up to 7 coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T05:09:00.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1978" CreationDate="2011-01-03T10:31:13.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; We've never played with the auctions at home. What I'm saying comes from experience with auctions in other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience most unregulated auctions drag on with people outbidding each other with minimal increases. The minimum bid usually isn't much of an issue. If people want the item then the price will quickly rise to a certain level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest to use the &quot;no house&quot; or &quot;one house&quot; rent (or so) as the minimum raise amount for each auction. That also has the advantage of scaling with the value of the property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a minimum opening bid I'd rather go with the mortage value than the face value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T10:31:13.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-01-03T12:00:51.027" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of going on to list one game after another I'll try to find some common points to help you out. I'd say there are three main factors in what might put off less hard-core gamers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upfront intimidation (should resolve during first game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continuous complexity (remains an issue indefinitely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Obscure effects&quot; (should resolve after one or two games)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Puerto Rico&quot; is a good example of &quot;Upfront intimidation&quot;. If you take the time to read the rulebook upfront that's gonna be a huge time investment. For many casual players that might be intimidating having to remember all of it. Having &quot;Lots of bits and pieces&quot; also falls into this category. For some that's a turn on for other's not so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Agricola&quot; is much faster to explain upfront but much more complex during gameplay. Handling all those bits and pieces, making sound decisions and trying to form some semblance of a strategy challenged me big time even after several solo games. There are so many different aspects to keep track of, that it requires a lot of concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;El Grande&quot; would be a good example for what I classified as &quot;obscure effects&quot; (to your choices). The game does not have much of upfront reading nor too many continuous choices. The problem is that it usually takes a few turns before your choices have their effect on your score. Some players don't really mind playing along and waiting to see what they get but others will find it frustrating. Especially in the beginning. This is something you can only find out through reviews or first hand experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boiling it down to a few signs to watch out for: Avoid games that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have lots of material. (The more abstract the material the worse it is)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;take close to or more than 90 minutes. (Anything above that is either complex or boring)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T12:00:51.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2017" CreationDate="2011-01-03T12:26:07.680" Score="14" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my solo campaign I played the &quot;Home teacher&quot; (The card that shows Obi Wan) and chose that as my first fixed profession for the following rounds. The card says something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the game you receive one bonus point for every profession you play after this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; In the second game when I already have the teacher laying on the table and choose profession. Is that profession free or does it cost 1 food?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; Also from the third game on I had the Teacher and other professions laying on the table from the start. Do all these professions give bonus points at the end or just the ones I actually play in that round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T14:27:06.507" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T14:27:06.507" Title="Agricola Solo &quot;Campaign&quot; professions" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-01-03T13:44:20.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Axis_%26_Allies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 30mins+ Axis &amp;amp; Allies takes to set up the hundreds of peices would switch most people off - even before you get into the convoluted turn process and thick rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T13:44:20.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2014" CreationDate="2011-01-03T16:34:06.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you need to pay 1 food for your second occupation.  Note that the action space on the board reads:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player's first occupation is free, each additional one costs 1 food&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say anything like &quot;first occupation played from your hand&quot; or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you get bonus points for any occupation played after the &lt;em&gt;Home Teacher&lt;/em&gt;.  Per the solo rules, you choose the occupations as you play them.  There is an implied ordering, just make sure you chose the Home Teacher first!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T16:34:06.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2011-01-03T16:38:40.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having just recently completed our first full game of Puerto Rico I have a fresh perspective on this. Previously we only played about an hour into the game. This time we had one new player and she came second place with 1 point behind and 10+ points ahead of the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all the individual parts of the game are &lt;strong&gt;not that difficult to learn&lt;/strong&gt;. The manual is very good and with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameswithscott.com/?p=80&quot;&gt;Scott's video&lt;/a&gt; you get a good overview on how to get points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However as others told you already the game is &lt;strong&gt;difficult to master&lt;/strong&gt;. There are a lot of options and it requires some experience to not make too many mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to what some commenter said, the game is [or at least can be] &lt;strong&gt;very unforgiving&lt;/strong&gt; for its length. A few bad choices early on coupled with some bad luck can essentially ruin you. To realize that you've doomed yourself to last place and then having to play the remaining 1.5 hours can really hurt! Thus I strongly support Codemwnci's suggestion of playing some sample rounds (~5) before you go for the full game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important points to pass on to new players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You win through shipping goods and constructing buildings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know exactly under what circumstances the game ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your options open. Make sure that you can profit from most roles even (perhaps even especially) when someone else picks it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not neglect your cash flow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What killed me in our game was cash. I ran out of it in the first or second round and had to pass up three or four building phases. After that everyone had such a big advantage over me that I was never able to catch up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T16:38:40.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2011-01-03T17:55:40.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the game is &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; complex.  I do think, from personal experience, that it's a tough game for newbies because they can get screwed over pretty easily.  When I first started playing Puerto Rico I was regularly reduced to despair by watching my hard-accumulated goods rot away on the pier.  Until you've played a few times and have a feel for how the timings work, you'll have to be supernaturally smart to see this kind of thing coming.  Many less hardcore gamers don't like this &quot;school of hard knocks&quot; route to success and will give up before they get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also always found that the buildings - which, let's not forget, are a bunch of nearly identical purple squares covered with tiny text - are impossible to &quot;grok&quot; the first time around.  Again, you have to have played the game a bit before their differences and uses become anywhere near obvious, and it takes some stamina to get that far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I've heard tell that experienced players get very frustrated with having newbies at the table... because in Puerto Rico you can get such huge advantages from the person sitting next to you producing goods at an opportune time for you, someone acting cluelessly can create a huge swing in the power balance of the game.  So not only is the game not much fun for the hapless newbie, it may also be not that much fun for those trying to teach the game to beginners!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after all that doomsaying, I do have to say that Puerto Rico &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; well worth it once everyone gets the hang of it.  I'd just recommend building up to this level of Eurogame (pretty much the top tier, eh?) in incremental steps, so no one's head explodes from coming to it direct from The Game of Life :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T17:55:40.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-01-03T19:03:00.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Civilization (or Advanced Civilization).   It takes at least 30 min just to explain the framework of the rules.  Then more time to explain all the details of the different advanced and calamities if you want to explain those upfront.  (I usually leave those until later). And it can take many hours to play a complete game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Advanced version actually is easier for non-hardcore gamers, because the changed rules make it easier to play a shortened version of the game.  But even then, it has a very high time-cost of new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2011-01-03T19:03:00.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2021" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-03T19:07:54.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion (2-4 players, 30-minutes) is a card game where each player starts with a small identical deck. Each game, 10 kingdom cards (most commonly actions, but sometimes extra treasure and victory cards) are selected to be available for purchase. Dominion won the Spiel des Jahres prize in 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Dominion set (released in 2008) contains 25 kingdom cards, allowing for 3,267,860 possible unique combinations. Many expansions are available (see below), greatly increasing the total number of kingdom cards available, and making the number of possible games astronomical. When compared to the expansions, the kingdom cards in the base set are noticeably straightforward; it's a very good set for introducing new players to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play, the &quot;base cards&quot; are needed. These consist of the basic treasure and victory cards, and are included in the base game (Dominion) and in the Intrigue expansion, or they can be purchased separately as &quot;Dominion Base Cards&quot;. All other expansions require the base cards to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Typical Questions and Tag Use&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; tag should be used for all Dominion-related questions, though if your question features elements from one of the expansions it's nice to add that tag as well. We welcome general and specific strategy questions, probability and statistical questions, accessory and storage questions and, of course, rules questions. (The Dominion rulebooks are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll  probably find your answer there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion community on this site is quite active. We invite new users to browse old questions and, if you think something has been missed, add a new answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Expansions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many expansions for Dominion. You can find content related to each of them through their tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-intrigue&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-intrigue&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-intrigue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-seaside&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-seaside&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-seaside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-alchemy&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-alchemy&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-alchemy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-prosperity&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-prosperity&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-prosperity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-promotional&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-promotional&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-promotional&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-cornucopia&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-cornucopia&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-cornucopia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-hinterlands&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-hinterlands&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-hinterlands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-dark-ages&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-dark-ages&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-dark-ages&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-adventures&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-adventures&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-adventures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-empires&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-empires&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-empires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-nocturne&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion-nocturne&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-nocturne&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Useful Links&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Webpage&lt;/a&gt; at Rio Grande Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Visual Spoilers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Card Randomizer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T05:15:39.793" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T05:15:39.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2022" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-03T19:07:54.487" Score="0" Body="Dominion (2-4 players, 30-minutes) is a card game where players start with small identical decks. They then transform their deck into victory-point producing machines as efficiently as possible by buying more cards. Each game, 10 kingdom cards (most commonly actions, but sometimes extra treasure and victory cards) are selected to be available for purchase." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:54:38.727" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:54:38.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:11:03.577" Score="21" ViewCount="3814" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends and I often play Agricola, and he's considerably better than me at it - I'm getting better, but he seems to be advancing at a faster rate, and it's getting to the point that although I like playing the game I'm finding it less fun to be constantly losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good ways of creating some custom/'house' rules to disadvantage him slightly, so that we're a little more even? I don't want to make it impossible for him to win, or to make it too easy for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know the purists out there will think this abhorrent, but hey, the goal is to have fun right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="113" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T16:33:20.597" LastActivityDate="2022-04-11T18:14:34.003" Title="Handicapping an experienced Agricola player." Tags="|house-rules|agricola|handicap|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2027" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:18:11.210" Score="19" ViewCount="2614" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently played a game of Settlers of Catan where for the first 3 rounds none of us got any brick at all, so there was no road construction at all and it dragged a little. I'm not looking to reduce the randomness, but a slight alteration of the game setup could probably do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've thought of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give players more starting resources. If everyone began with 2 of everything things could get going faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give everyone an extra free road at the beginning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other good ways to give Catan a bit more of a jump start? I find if one player gets a slow start in the beginning (like no brick) they can get screwed for most of the game. Different players being strong in different resources is core to the entire game, but a tiny early lack of wood can make one player suffer through the entire thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T16:15:45.770" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T16:26:02.623" Title="How to reduce slow starts at the beginning of the game?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|openings|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:31:52.283" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suggestion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd start you with one to three &quot;traveling worker&quot; tokens.  Once per turn, when it's your turn to place a family member, you can place a traveling worker token instead of a member of your family (ie: You get to occupy and take an extra action.). The traveling worker goes away at the end of the turn you used it.  You never have to feed your traveling worker tokens.  Functionally, traveling workers are members of your family that you can use one time, and you never have to feed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each traveling worker gives you two distinct advantages: It gives you an extra action, and it (may) block an action that your friend could have taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Agricola&lt;/em&gt; is all about efficient use of actions (and selecting the right things to purchase (and getting good combos)).  Traveling workers give you a little leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tweaking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the number of traveling workers you start the game with until the games feel &quot;right&quot;.  Given your description, I suspect that two traveling workers will do the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If giving you traveling workers is so powerful that you win all the time, even with just one traveling worker, add a cost in food to using the traveling worker (like one resource unit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T01:31:52.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:40:28.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variant on your, &quot;give players more starting resources&quot; idea:  After each player gets his or her starting resources, let each player take one (or two) resource(s) of his or her choice.  That way, each player can assess what he or she is &quot;short&quot; in and fill that gap (albeit temporarily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that you can use with, or instead of, the above: Start with the robber off the board entirely.  The first time a seven is rolled, put the robber in the desert.  From that point on, sevens have their normal effect.  This will give players more of a chance to shrink their hands of resources before getting zapped by the robber, and will keep the robber off the board longer, enabling the towns and cities to produce more resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T01:40:28.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:41:35.783" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget, you get a resource card for each resource you touch when you place your second settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still finding things going slow, here's some random ideas you can use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each player, remove a &lt;strong&gt;Year of Plenty&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Road Building&lt;/strong&gt; card from the deck, shuffle them up, and deal one to each player.  That should get things &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; going.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give each player one extra road as suggested.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let each player pick one extra resource when starting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NEW - The first time any player rolls a 7 (i.e. this will only happen once), after placing the thief the player has the option of taking a resource from the pile matching the tile they just played the thief on &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt; of taking a resource from a player (yes, it rewards a little bit of luck, but it also softens the blow of the first thief a little).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NEW - The first time each player rolls the dice in the game, if they get any resources, they may take one extra of a resource they just received.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-04T03:03:59.553" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T03:03:59.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2011-01-04T01:56:05.207" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while back some friends and I had played a few long, boring games of Monopoly in a row. Before we gave up on the game entirely we decided to try one more game with strict adherence to the rules. Not only was the game fun, but it was over in 45 minutes. Two common house rules break the game in the following ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Free parking money (free $500 and/or using it to collect and redistribute fine revenue are popular alternatives) leads to inflation in the same way it does in a real economy; except that in Monopoly prices are fixed which leads to a shortage of property/improvements because everyone can typically afford anything they want. Without free money it's easy to over-extend buying property or hotels and go bankrupt. Too much money eliminates the tension between cash flow and assets. Trying to walk that balance is part of the fun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No auctions. Development is the key to victory, but development requires monopolies, and monopolies require property to be bought from the bank. Actually having to land on all two or three tracts in a single group is statistically unlikely; this extends games as people try in vain to hit that last property. It also means more trips around Go before the development phase of the game starts: more Go means inflation (see #1).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best house rules are no house rules, both because they break the game and because the easiest set of rules to explain are the ones that are already written down in black and white. If they don't know what they are they can read the book. It's also worth a quick comment that strict rules mean auctions and no cash in Free Parking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T01:56:05.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-04T02:18:34.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Axis and Allies Chess&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago there used to be whole websites devoted to describing the rules to Axis and Allies chess, which is a no-luck version of the popular board game, but Google seems unable to find the rule set I remember, which I think was originally developed by the A&amp;amp;A club at MIT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic modification from the standard game is to replace rolling with a deterministic combat model. The standard model is to roll one die per unit and score hits against a unit specific threshold (i.e. an attacking tank hits on a 3+). In A&amp;amp;A Chess, the attacking or defending values are summed and divided by 6. Remainders of 4 or less are discarded and remainders of 5 or considered hits. For example, four attacking infantry can't do any damage, but two tanks result in one casualty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although theoretically this model would enable a player to work out a complex combat round in their head, this is impractical: first, it's too much math to keep in your head for multi-round combat; second, you don't know how the enemy will respond to taking casualties and/or if they will retreat (if attacking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-aircraft guns are resolved by the same rules: meaning an AA gun is ineffective against 4 or less aircraft attacking at once, but will automatically record (at least) one hit against 5 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically chess does away with tech research, but it would be easy to set a price for each technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-01-04T04:01:20.373" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T04:01:20.373" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2011-01-04T02:28:26.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about practicing and getting some revenge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Steps for Revenge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Board1/Agricola.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;play-agricola.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a couple games solo to get the hang of the interface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advertise in the public chat channel that you are a beginner looking for a game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play five games or so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet you can now beat your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It worked for me, and I wasn't even purposely trying to get better.  By exposing yourself to different folks with different strategies, you will escalate your game play rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also learn by watching some games, those folks are really good over there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-06T18:19:00.503" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T18:19:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1032" CreationDate="2011-01-04T03:26:06.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;One Hit Infantry&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For advanced players, the overarching strategy of A&amp;amp;A reduces to the infantry push mechanic as described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Don Rae's excellent essays&lt;/a&gt;--this is especially true for 2nd edition games, which have 3/2 tanks vice 3/3 tanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The essence of the IPM is that Germany and Russia should buy only infantry until the late game, after they have fortified their borders with infantry and established dead zones in Eastern Europe. The US, UK and Japan also play IPM, but after a short delay to build navies and/or factories to move/spawn all this infantry. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IPM works because the opportunity cost of all units is higher than infantry's (i.e. infantry are the cheapest unit in the game and are twice as effective on defense as they are on offense). Cheap means they are the only units you can ever afford to leave in a dead zone (i.e. open to counterattack by a superior force). Their effective defense means they are most valuable in large stacks that can devastate an attacking force with insufficient &quot;cannon fodder&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don suggests a brilliant and simple solution to the stalemated and long-developing game common between experienced players utilizing IPM: modify infantry so that they attack and defend on a roll of 1+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change takes some getting use to, but after only a game or two becomes second nature and dramatically changes the game for the better. What was once a defensive stalemate becomes a furor of attack and counter attack. 1/1 infantry means a one-on-one combat between two lone infantry becomes a fair fight, it means any additional attacking force is statistically overwhelming, and it means infantry alone defend so poorly as to be almost useless. All of these factors bias the game just enough in favor of the attacker to prevent large stacks of infantry from materializing. This change also makes a fighter-only vs. infantry attack feasible since the odds that the infantry will score a lucky hit have been cut in half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the traditional sitting around a table method you can try out this variation on the computer if you are lucky enough to have a copy of the out-of-print Iron Blitz (you can edit the infantry attack/defense values); it's also trivially easy to implement if you play-by-email. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-01-08T02:35:56.030" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T02:35:56.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2011-01-04T03:50:24.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Take India / Fortress Manchuria&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My response to this strategy is based on the 2nd edition map and is fairly simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move everything from Burma into India. This move have two purposes: first, it ensures you can hold India from a 2 inf + 1 fighter counter attack from Sinkiang and prevent the UK Indian factory; second, it leaves Burma enticingly open--you want the US or UK to take the bait and move a single inf there. (more on this in a minute).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the two transports to drop 4 infantry in either Burma or Manchuria. Manchuria is the preferred location, but your ability to do this depends on how much counter attack capability Russia has nearby. If you can hold Manchuria against the potential triple attack from the US, Russian and the UK--where hold means losing infantry is fine but losing aircraft is not--then land there. You should land with 4 inf and all your airpower that can't participate in Pearl Harbor. If playing with 2-hit battleships (a good rule mod that helps to balance out things for the axis), you can probably even land an additional fighter in Manchuria.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kwangbang also means I use a transport and infantry strategy as Japan instead of a factory and tank strategy. The reason for this is two fold. First, a factory in Burma or Manchuria could potentially be captured (even though you're bracing against it, why take the risk). Second, you want the flexibility of the transports on turn 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your next turn, your large transport fleet can attack Burma (with Indian support) or Kwangtung with Burma or Manchuria support. Once the ships and fighters get back from Pearl on turn 3 you can use the battle ships and fighters to ensure you own everything on the coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you want to entice them to take Burma is for them to divide their limited and irreplaceable defensive forces where you can pick them off and/or take them with overwhelming force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Kwangbang has perhaps cost you a turn of early expansion but the cost was completely forgoing the most effective UK strategy: the Indian factory. It looks good early, but you're in the game for the long-haul (especially if you understand the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1032/recommended-axis-allies-alternative-rules-variations/2032#2032&quot;&gt;infantry push mechanic&lt;/a&gt;) and this early advantage is not worth the fact that it cedes control of Asia to Japan after the 3rd turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of using transports vice factories is that when you find yourself with a spare transport it can be used to harvest free infantry from the South Pacific islands and use them to take African territory, New Zealand, and with the support of a soon-to-be useless battleship or two even defended islands like Australia. Don't underestimate the value of 1 or 2 IPC territories integrated over several turns in the mid game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T05:06:59.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1473" CreationDate="2011-01-04T04:17:52.333" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No, because in hearts there is private knowledge&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is a categorical no. Having a perfect memory of cards that have been played and in what order is insufficient to guarantee optimal play, and we can say this without even having to define optimal play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first turn of the game, you have limited knowledge of how the cards have been distributed. You know about the cards in your hand and those you've passed (if applicable), and you can potentially infer something from the cards you've received. But that's only 16 cards out of 52 and you don't know how the remaining cards are distributed. This private knowledge means there is no deterministically optimal play; you don't have enough information to know what move is always best. Even given a stochastic play model (where you're looking for the play most likely to give you the best results) it is possible for two different distributions of the hidden cards to suggest different plays, which means the hypothesized algorithm must make a random selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll prove the point with an obvious example: the first play of the first round. Since the scores are tied at zero, a good definition of optimal play is to get the lowest score in the round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had only three clubs in your hand, the Ace, a fairly high card and a low rank card, a typical play in the first round is to play the Ace and take the trick and then to lead the higher card to burn it before playing the low ranking card or switching suits. Given a fairly nominal distribution of clubs, the odds of someone being out of clubs on the second round (so they can sluff a heart or the Queen) AND someone else not playing a higher club are not insignificant but low and usually worth the risk. If you had perfect knowledge however the right play would be obvious, but without perfect knowledge the right play depends on knowledge you don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, the fact that there is private knowledge in hearts means that even with a perfect memory you cannot always guarantee optimal play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T04:17:52.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2011-01-04T04:28:39.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The first of a pair, or the middle card of a run&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key strategy to take away is that in the play you're trying to trap or entice the other player into playing something that might give them points but sets you up to get more, or you're trying to increase the number of cards they can play that will enable you to respond with a scoring play. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I have a pair, I typically lead with one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're hoping to entice the other player to play a pair-for-two so you can turn around and play triples for 6. An obvious exception is starting with a 5, as you're asking for them to take 15-2. Starting with a 10 is less risky as there are only four 5s in the deck but many 10-value cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The probability of the opponent getting dealt exactly 1 of the other cards of my pair is 23% (in their opening hand, they could have dumped it to the crib), while the probability of the opponent having both of the other cards of my pair is less than 1%.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I have a run I'll also often play the    middle card. That gives me run-for-3    options if they play any one of four    cards, the two ranks below and the    two ranks above what I played. For    example, if I have 6, 7, and 8 I'll    play the 7. If they play 6 and I can    play 8 run-for-3; 5 I play 6, 8 I    play 6 and 9 I play 8. This    particular run also had the advantage    of trapping them into playing the 8    to get 15-2, where you can answer    with a run-for-three. I know it's    only a one point advantage, but I've    won many a game by one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you have 6-7-7-8 then you can do both strategies simultaneously and you're really set, both for the play and for the killer hand you're about to lay down during the show. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Appendix&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compute the probability of my opponent getting dealt exactly 1 of the other 2 cards of my pair is (in octave or matlab code):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(nchoosek(44,5)*nchoosek(2,1))/nchoosek(46,6)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probability of getting dealt both of the remaining cards is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(nchoosek(44,4)*nchoosek(2,2))/nchoosek(46,6)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T00:16:05.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-04T05:15:39.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2346/dvonn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;h2&gt;DVONN&lt;/h2&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played the other &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/project_GIPF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Project GIPF&lt;/a&gt; games, but DVONN reminds me of a variation of chinese checkers -- but each time you move a piece, you affect how it can later move.  You also sometimes sacrifice some of your pieces to take out the opponents pieces by disconnecting from the red DVONN pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Um ... this explanation is probably more confusing than helping make the case, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T05:15:39.987" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2011-01-04T15:47:40.200" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play an open game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friend is willing, why not play a completely open game?  All players show all of their cards and explain why they're taking each action.  If your friend really is significantly better, you could learn a lot by discovering why he makes certain moves.  Perhaps there's some critical flaw in your strategy that's preventing you from scoring enough points to be competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T15:47:40.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1886" CreationDate="2011-01-04T16:31:47.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play I assign roles to each player, the upkeep phase is quite a daunting thing especially when you have rumors in play.&#xA;If each person has a little task to worry about then it'll move things along faster and no one is waiting for one person to figure out everything that needs to happen on the upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I second the &quot;reading the cards to yourself&quot;.  It kind of loses some of the flavor of the game, but some corners need to be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="678" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T16:31:47.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2011-01-04T18:06:06.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draft Occupations/Minor Improvements&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Family version of Agricola is a game of very low randomness.  If one player is consistently beating another, then the second player will just have to step up their game, there isn't really any satisfactory way around that!  Maybe I am a purist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However!  The full game, with the occupation and minor improvement cards, allows for games where one player is significantly advantaged over another: some cards, occupations especially, are just better than other cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's what I'd recommend, to give you a headstart on your opponent: deal two piles of 7 occupations, and then you pick the best one from BOTH piles.  Your opponent picks one from each pile, then back to you, until you have seven each.  Do the same for minor improvements.  (If your opponent really is thrashing you, maybe even pick two at a time instead!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have great cards and your opponent has mediocre ones, it will be much more of an uphill struggle for him to beat you.  And now you are playing a game of Agricola that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have been created by the luck of the draw - you don't have to make a new game that's Agricola in name only, and the purists remain mostly unirked :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T18:06:06.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:15:13.747" Score="9" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Forbid the strong player from taking the First Player action.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not terribly awkward to implement, and if you always get to choose the first action of the round you'll have a really significant advantage. In a multi-player game he could always play last regardless of the start player marker, but that's likely too much of a disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T20:15:13.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2055" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:18:24.457" Score="38" ViewCount="8049" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been noticing that there's a vogue in gaming recently for the starting player to be chosen by some method other than simple lot.  I'm wondering if this is a good fashion, or if it's just getting silly.  Here's a representative list of some of the starting-player-choosing mechanism I can think of off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Youngest player first (e.g. St Petersburg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player with the longest beard first (Once Upon A Time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player with the pointiest ears (Small World)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most well-travelled player (Ticket To Ride)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nicest player (Dungeon Lords)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player who lives closest to water (Le Havre)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others can probably add a few examples of their own.  My question is: are any of these actually superior, on a long-term basis, to just choosing at random?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like &amp;quot;youngest player first&amp;quot; in games where the first player has an advantage, on the assumption that if you're playing with children it's nice to give them a little help - but on the other hand, if the youngest player at your table is in their 30s and a boardgames fanatic, the rule may end up hurting more than it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, in Ticket To Ride the &amp;quot;best travelled-player&amp;quot; is charming to start with, but can get annoying as the same person who spent 3 months seeing Europe by train goes first forever.  And this is before we get onto largely subjective quantities like ear-pointiness and niceness (in all fairness to Dungeon Lords, I think that's a joke and really you're meant to end up choosing the start player randomly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these rules mostly just there to be cute - and quickly ignored - or should be follow them religiously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-07-28T20:57:19.833" LastActivityDate="2022-07-28T20:57:19.833" Title="Do non-random alternative methods of choosing a starting player actually WORK, and if so which?" Tags="|house-rules|game-setup|" AnswerCount="23" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:32:33.370" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always use our own method of choosing the starting player, regardless of what the rules say. To take your point about youngest player, I am 30, and the youngest player in our group, yet I probably have the highest win ratio. So, this would be unfair where the first player has an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our method is simple, we roll a die. If we can't find a die, we take all the players' victory point piece, or worker (anything to identify the players colour), and throw it across the board. The furthest away from the thrower goes last, the closest first. Simple, easy and fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of your list, I have only player Ticket to Ride and Le Havre, but we have never used most well travelled and lives closest to water (again I fear I would come first in these as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-01-05T16:53:23.273" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T16:53:23.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:36:49.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing that I've done in the past is to cap time per turn (no, this doesn't help with the resources issue) to, say, 180 seconds (ie 3 minutes). Most players (other than stark newbies) will be thinking on the other players' time, so limiting them to 3 minutes should help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T20:36:49.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2011-01-04T20:42:58.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be mentioned that the base game and Seafarers feel more like Monopoly (a family-friendly game of building and trading), while Cities and Knights feels more like Risk (even deeper strategy, and very cut-throat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not call Cities and Knights family-friendly at all - you get a lot of cards, and every other card (it feels like) is a &lt;em&gt;&quot;screw-someone-else-over&quot;&lt;/em&gt; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T20:42:58.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-04T21:09:12.973" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion has the &quot;player sitting to the left of the player who won the previous game&quot; mechanic.  Since play passes to the left, this means the person who won the previous game goes last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means every other player has a chance (on turn 3) to play attack cards before the player who won previously.  Or to buy up the last copies of a popular card (Lighthouse, Moat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T21:09:12.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2007" CreationDate="2011-01-04T21:19:08.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;+&lt;/code&gt; Actions add to your action total, but you do not play actions immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there are 3 cards that do cause immediate other actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1VlAk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Golem&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Golem forces you to play the other two action cards you turn up immediately, but you choose the order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aU2Vu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Throne Room&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2ctx5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;King&amp;#39;s Court&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Throne Room causes you to play another action from your hand twice.  King's Court causes you to play another action from your hand three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also 2 cards that play coin cards immediately:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxId6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Venture&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You don't have a choice whether or not to play the next coin card you turn up.  As soon as you play Venture, the top coin from your deck will be played, even if it is a Loan, Contraband, or Bank that you'd rather save until later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNOVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black Market&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A promo card.  When you play Black Market, you can choose to play some or all of the coin cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2011-01-04T21:25:30.567" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T21:25:30.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:03:02.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen at least one more rule which actually works well. Gold Mine-&gt; Player who is most excited to play goes first. But in general, I just pick a way, dice roll or similar. The alternative methods aren't really random, I'd say they are there for entertainment in rules, and perhaps for playing for the first time or two, but not for long term use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T23:03:02.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2061" CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:31:49.363" Score="15" ViewCount="8980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, what are some good games for mixed gamer/non-gamer parties?  I've had good luck with some light strategy games in the past, but nothing too serious.  What's good, quick, and can easily incorporate a lot of people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T12:20:29.950" Title="Best Light Strategy Party Games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:16:18.860" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-04T23:55:50.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you don't want something that is fun for gamers and non-gamers alike, but doesn't really count as a strategy game (Apples to Apples?  Dixit?)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got &quot;7 Wonders&quot; for Christmas, it's pretty light as strategy games go and has an easy theme that anyone who's heard of the computer game Civilization will quickly comprehend and enjoy.  It takes up to 7 players, as the name might suggest, and only lasts half an hour per game.  Each player only has to interact with their left- and right-hand neighbours so it's not too intimidating; and you have the choice of either cooperating with neighbours (buying their stuff, while they buy yours in return) or amassing superior military force, so it should appeal to most temperaments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't actually tried it with non-gamers, but it strikes me that it would be a perfect &quot;gateway game&quot;, while simultaneously accommodating a pretty large group.  Could be worth a try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-04T23:55:50.833" CommentCount="4" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-05T00:36:51.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3955/bang&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bang&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast, not too complex, contains casual violence towards your fellow partygoers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Cash and Guns works well for the same reasons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T00:36:51.730" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-05T00:45:11.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/815/chrononauts&quot;&gt;Chrononauts&lt;/a&gt; is one answer to your corollary question.  This is a pseudo-random start: first player is whoever guesses the time at a given mark most accurately.  This varies the player, but is definitely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; purely random.  Good time sense is an advantage.  (Fair enough, in a time travel game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T00:45:11.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-05T00:59:28.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Ingenious&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always a solid simple abstract strategy game; allows 2–4 equally well and has that useful party property of being easily taught by someone who only just learned it themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T14:39:05.847" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-05T02:31:09.943" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38318/start-player&quot;&gt;Start Player&lt;/a&gt; every time.  That gives us the fun and twisted subjective criteria that is such a blast to work out, but also injects the truly random so that no one player continuously gets picked as the starting player for any particular game.  Plus, the cards are hilarious!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the best of both worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="370" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T02:31:09.943" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-05T03:57:21.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wits_and_Wagers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wits and Wagers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like a fun version of Trivial Pursuit, only everyone guesses the answer and you get to bet on the right one.  Straightforward, and good for parties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="441" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T03:57:21.993" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-05T04:55:34.127" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'll go first&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game's all set up, people are chatting about random things, and when nobody's looking, you decide to go first.  I play in a somewhat casual group, and it's surprising how well this works.  No dice to roll, no questions to ask, just go.  If you don't like it, then you can go first next time.  ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T04:55:34.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-05T05:46:52.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems you're arguing against both subjective criteria and also randomness.  I seems in this case that you want some objective criteria.  If the game doesn't provide for such a thing you can use one among the your gaming group.  An obvious one is simply board gaming experience * experience with this board game.  It's generally easy to determine who's the best board gamer, and who's played the most.  In games with a first-turn advantage (an unbalanced game IMHO), just go in increasing order of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the other part of your question, the theme-based go-first do add to the game experience, but yes, they're meant to be thrown out when they get old.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the best method I've seen to balance starting player is when the game provides a mechanism to determine this in-game as a tactical decision.  For example, Innovation has players simultaneously reveal a hard from their hand, and first alphabetically goes first.  This allows one to decide between the card they want to play, and the less desirable card that will allow the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T05:46:52.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-05T05:50:29.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a few I pull out at parties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bonanza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kill Dr. Lucky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unexploded Cow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hey That's My Fish!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blockus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T05:50:29.430" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-05T08:45:44.443" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;For games where being the starting player matters I favor plain an simple randomness. The &quot;youngest player&quot; rule is cute when you're 8. It's not so cute when you're 18 and have a twin was born half a minute after you. And at 28 it starts to get really silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for upstream advantage, that's actually a pretty common effect. If this a serious problem in your group you'll have to find a solution for it outside the printed rules. Remember those are only suggestions. The only important thing is that everyone plays by the same rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are a few games with an interesting spin on this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;El Grande&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who's the starting player at the beginning of the game is largely irrelevant because it changes in every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every player has a stack of cards numbered from 1 to 13. Once you've used a card you can't use it again. The starting player chooses a card first and then it goes around the table. The higher the number you played the sooner you get your turn. The lower the number you played the more cubes you get to play with. And the player with the lowest card becomes starting player in the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mesopotamia&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone except the last player gets a disadvantage during their first turn. After that it's just one player after another and who went first is no longer important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T08:45:44.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-05T08:54:39.597" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are of course different definitions of light strategy games, so I will just mention some games, which I have introduced to nongamers in parties, and which have been interesting both for them as well as more experienced gamers (in random order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Games which can be explained in 5 min&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small pure card games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9220/saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt;: 3-10 players, 30 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;objecttype=boardgame&amp;amp;q=6+Nimmt!&amp;amp;B1=Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;6 Nimmt! or Category 5&lt;/a&gt;: 2-10 players, 45 min (usually less)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5782/coloretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coloretto&lt;/a&gt;: 2-5 players, 30 min (this one I really like despite its simple rules)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards and some bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt;: 2-7(8 with usually included expansion) players, 60 min - this one is a must have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39856/dixit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DiXit&lt;/a&gt;: 3-6 players, 30 min - almost no strategy but very good and can be easily played with upt to 8 players even using just the expansion and writing points down on a paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abstract:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/24568/rumis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rumis(+)&lt;/a&gt;: 2-4(6 with expansion) players, 45 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2453/blokus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blokus&lt;/a&gt;: 1-4 players, 20 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19237/cash-n-guns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ca$h'n Gun$&lt;/a&gt;: 4-6 players, 30 min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/60158/fast-food&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fast food&lt;/a&gt; or any other reaction game like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2944/halli-galli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halli Galli&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8098/jungle-speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;jugle speed&lt;/a&gt; are all around 2(3)-6(8) players and 10-15min&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37380/roll-through-the-ages-the-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roll through the ages: the bronze age&lt;/a&gt;: 1-4 players, 30 min (this is a nice gem, also pure gamers love it, and when you have taught all others some games and don't have anything to do, you can play it by yourself ;))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Games, that require a little longer explanation, but are still manageable&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt;: 2-7 players, 45 min. Even though this is an easy game, explaining it always takes me more time than I like&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3955/bang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bang!&lt;/a&gt;: 4-7 players, 30 min. This one is really good for more players, but explanation takes some time. Can be modified so, that healing beer cards make the player drink a tequila shot ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt;: 2-4 players, 30 min. Everybody loves this one, and it can be played as fast filler. Just don't overdose with expansions in the first session. If you have an expansion, you can run more than one parallel game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Agricola (Family version)&lt;/a&gt;: 1-5 players, 120 min. If you are really adventurous explainer and have longer time to kill in a small party, this actually can work really well. My nongaming in-laws understood the family version on ~10 min and really liked it (even though their score wasn't great)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7 wonders&lt;/a&gt;: 2-7 players, 30 min. As previously mentioned it might look intimidating, but is easily explained and a fast game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion one of the most important things for a game to be successful with non-gamers and casual gamers is the capability of &quot;getting in the game fast&quot; - you must generalize the important rules and guidelines and delve into details as you go. If you do so, and the game is not a total brain burner and doesn't exceed some 2h, you will be able to play almost any game with nongamers.&#xA;Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Persuade them, how cool the game is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't scare them away before they get into it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a good advice by Tynam - with some exceptions, like bang and saboteur, try to split the group in several smaller gaming sessions with similar expected game time, so they can mix the games during the evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: Added hyperlinks as promised&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T12:20:29.950" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T12:20:29.950" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T23:11:52.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-05T09:37:53.617" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, I don't like the non-random first player choices, because they either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the same person go first over and over again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or the method it self has to be chosen at random, and in this case it is just a longer random choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Our method of choice&lt;/strong&gt; (it doesn't require any props and is quite fast):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone at the same time &quot;throws&quot; 0-5 fingers on their hands. The number of fingers is summed up and counted in clockwise direction starting from previously chosen player (usually the one owning the game). The player on which the last count lands is the first player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method depends on random choices of all players so is quite random and quite unbiased. It replaces such mechanisms as &quot;rock,paper,schissors&quot; which have the disadvantage of possible ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T09:37:53.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4247" CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:16:30.190" Score="5" ViewCount="1940" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more a question for the big games with a lot of investigators. A few non-critical tokens seem to be able to run out, and I can't find anything about those specific tokens in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you just rip a piece of paper and create a clue token or are they out when out? I do know some of the tokens (like portals) awaken the Ancient One when they run out, but for the others there are no mentions in the rules (or I'm just missing them) about what to do when there are none left in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an 8 player game I've had this problem with Clue, Stamina, Sanity, Money and Explored (those you get once coming back from a portal) tokens. I don't believe the intention is to get sucked back into the portal just because there are no tokens left, but I might be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas about official rulings in these cases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="93" LastEditorUserId="93" LastEditDate="2011-01-06T20:26:25.693" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:20:15.193" Title="Arkham Horror: Tokens" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19803/martian-chess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Martian Chess&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/b&gt; is another Icehouse game with no element of luck.  It's not as deep as some of the other assorted games mentioned, but since I prefer light games that doesn't bother me. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="477" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T12:32:22.163" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-05T16:08:39.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many games that have just a tiny bit of luck, but zero-luck games are hard to come by (most are probably already listed here). I wouldn't be so quick to label games as no-luck just because they have no dice or cards though.  If a game is more than 2 players, one player could wind up benefiting greatly if the actions of other players are not focused at them.  For instance, if Players 1 &amp;amp; 2 wind up ganging up on Player 3, they could create a runaway leader in Player 4.  Would you say Player 4 was the benefit of some luck, having not been chosen as the target of these attacks?  Or would you say then simply made their obvious optimal moves in the face of unskilled play by Players 1 &amp;amp; 2?  I view the actions of an unskilled player as an element of luck, since at times they could be making decisions seemingly on a random basis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T16:08:39.540" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T16:08:39.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:33:18.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you play with the Farmers of the Moor expansion?  I've been finding, with that in the mix, that the Forester's Lodge is pretty amazing, definitely a valid alternative to grabbing an early Fireplace.  Played early it's a win-win Improvement: either it puts your Wood production into overdrive, or you get a ton of VPs for conserving Forest tiles on your board till the end of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Peat-Charcoal Kiln might be similarly good in a game where Stone is available from Turn 1, but unfortunately I mostly play 2 player, so I don't see enough of those!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the standard game I agree with Pat that the 2-clay Fireplace is the best, but only if you can grab it straightaway and then be the first to grab and slaughter 4-5 sheep!  It's not like it's much good later on, if you weren't the &quot;early bird&quot;.  Aside from that, see my comment on his answer.  Don't underestimate the potential power of the Basketmaker's Workshop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:33:18.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:45:37.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5459/no-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No Dice&lt;/a&gt; has no luck as one of it's selling points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:45:37.227" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T18:45:37.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-05T18:48:01.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2448/mancala&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mancala&lt;/a&gt; has no luck. Some might debate that if you are using irregular sized pieces and don't keep strict track of how many stones are in each space there is luck in picking the right space to &quot;move&quot;. However I'm not sure that applies, as it is simply a matter of counting to keep track the quantities of stone and the entire game state...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-01-05T18:48:01.127" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-05T18:48:01.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2071" CreationDate="2011-01-05T19:02:56.907" Score="23" ViewCount="9071" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother-in-law bought me Race For The Galaxy for Christmas so I've been playing a few games recently.  Obviously we are nowhere near mastering it; but what I've been seeing in all of our scorelines so far is someone getting a ton of points off one or other of the 6-point developments, and running away with the victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've been desperate to make a Produce-Consume strategy work, but so far I've had no luck at all.  It just seems as though having the right 6-cost development and building as many things as possible mentioned on that card completely trumps getting an &quot;engine&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions therefore occur.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Are 6-cost developments really this good?  If I don't see a good one early, should I be Exploring +5 in a frantic attempt to find one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) If I'm just being generally incompetent, and I expect I am, what are some efficient strategies for competing with someone whose 6-cost development is going to earn them ~10 extra points at the end of the game, when I don't have one of my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) What's the best way to get a really good Produce-Consume strategy working for you?  I expect it only seems slow and clunky to me right now because I'm doing it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me to zoom ahead from last place in this Race!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T06:16:18.443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T01:40:52.013" Title="Winning Race for the Galaxy Without 6-cost Developments?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2011-01-05T20:57:25.857" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to make this sound too much like an argument from authority, but I've won the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamers.org/yearbook/rfgpge.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WBC RftG tournament&lt;/a&gt; 3 years in a row.  I also mantain the &lt;a href=&quot;http://jburnim.github.io/rftgstats/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy Statistics&lt;/a&gt; page, which has some interesting play data on cards from 160,000 games played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) 6 devs are usually important for winning, but not required for doing so.  I build at least one 6 dev in more than 80% of the games that I play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the other hand, calling explore +5 early game isn't really a good move unless your whole hand is bad.  It's better to establish card flow so that you can keep most of the (somewhat fewer) cards that you see, instead of repeatedly exploring, which will leave you poor.  Repeatedly calling explore +5s leaves you too far on the quality over quantity spectrum.  It's not very useful to have great cards that you can't afford to build.  6 devs, especially multiple 6 devs, aren't great to have very early in the game, because they soak up valuable hand space that you need to get your card engine going.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Produce/consume is indeed the most viable way to win the game without building a 6 dev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, basic strategy.  Early game you want to get card flow.  The best way to do this is to settle a windfall world and trade off it.  The second best way is to settle a production world, produce on it, and then trade.  Windfall settle/trade is better than Production world settle/produce/trade because it is a turn faster.  This is pretty general opening advice for any strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) The key to a produce/consume strategy is to &lt;em&gt;build production worlds early&lt;/em&gt;.  So ideally you want to settle/trade a windfall, and then call some mix of settle, trade, and produce.  You want to avoid calling develop, which mostly fills up your tableau without increasing your production capacity, until you have at least 2 production worlds and a windfall.  After this, you might want to dev once to put down an efficient consumer card.   Mining Conglomerate, Diversified Economy and Consumer Markets are the best non-6 cost devs for consumption in the base game.  Free Trade Association and Mining League are good 6-cost consumers.  But you can likely use an opponent's develop, or settle worlds with consumption powers instead.  Galactic Trendsetters, Tourist World, and Old Earth are the best worlds for consumption in the base game.  You want to call trade rather than consume 2xVP until you can get at least 6 VP per consume 2xVP.  Also important with a consume/produce engine is the ability to draw cards so that your engine doesn't stall as you are produce/consuming.  It's especially good to have cards that draw on produce.  This makes cards like Lost Species Ark World, Mining World, Comet Zone, and Gem World particularly good production worlds in the base game, as you can see at the graph on &lt;a href=&quot;http://jburnim.github.io/rftgstats//base/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the base game rftgstats page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Addendum:&lt;/b&gt; How does this change for expansions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Produce/consume itself becomes marginally weaker in the expansions.  With the &lt;a href=&quot;http://jburnim.github.io/rftgstats//version_with_goals.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;card stats by game version animated graph&lt;/a&gt;, you can can see Galactic Trendsetters hastily moving left (less often played) and down (less winning when played), which is a bread and butter produce/consume world.  This is due to two factors.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The addition of goals, which give an extra point source that is mostly rewarded for building.  P/C itself sometimes misses early builds to set up production capability.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second is the introduction of the card Improved Logistics, which lets players settle twice in a single settle phase.  This card lets opponents quickly end the game, before a produce/consume player can get many cycles in.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the card Alien Toy Shop by itself is a 4 VP/cycle engine, which helps P/C a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, the fundamentals for produce/consume are the same, but the fraction of times you want to produce/consume should decrease with the introduction of the first expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansions also introduce another viable way to win without building a 6 dev, the tableau rush.  Since you can now get a substantial amount of points from goals, especially with the aid of improved logistics, you can grab a couple of goals and end the game really quickly with a middling score in the 30s.  But remember, the game is not about scoring big, it's about scoring more than your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T01:40:52.013" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T01:40:52.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2080" CreationDate="2011-01-05T21:46:49.870" Score="5" ViewCount="3344" Body="&lt;p&gt;The group I play with uses a character called The Little Girl.  She can peek each night at everyone else and see who the werewolves are, but if the werewolves spot her she's dead.  It seems that in the right hands, this could be a hugely overpowered position.  Anyone else use it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" LastActivityDate="2018-09-03T08:54:07.887" Title="Does anyone else use The Little Girl in Werewolf?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1997" CreationDate="2011-01-05T22:08:53.007" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, my favorite expansion is Prosperity.  My least favorite expansion is Alchemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I had to suggest an order, it would be:&#xA;Prosperity, Dark Ages, Seaside, Intrigue, Hinterlands, Cornucopia, Guilds, Alchemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the major new things in each set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Intrigue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intrigue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Mechanic: Multi-type cards (ex. Action &amp;ndash; Victory)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Actions tends to be more complicated than Base's actions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1662/how-does-intrigue-change-your-general-dominion-strategy/1665#1665&quot;&gt;Nastier attack cards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Standalone (doesn't require Base)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on attacks and special actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Seaside&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seaside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Mechanic: Durations (Multi-turn actions)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New types of Attack cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tokens and Mats for use with certain cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on setting up your next turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Alchemy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alchemy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller set (12 Kingdom cards instead of 25)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New basic Treasure card: Potion, costs $4 worth 1p&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Powerful cards, but 10 of 12 take a Potion to buy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on extra actions/action chaining  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Prosperity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New basic Treasure Card: Platinum, costs $9 worth $5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New basic Victory Card: Colony, costs $11 worth 10vp&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8 Kingdom Treasure cards that act like actions when played during Buy phase&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New Victory tokens, worth 1vp or 5vp each&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on treasure and victory points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Cornucopia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cornucopia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller set (12 Kingdom cards instead of 25)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on Actions and Drawing cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Doesn't mix well with Prosperity&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Jester is the real star of this set as it lets you gain one of a card an opponent flips up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Hinterlands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hinterlands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several new Kingdom Victory cards with special effects&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New Mechanic: On gain, do X&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on +Cards and gaining cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Puts a new twist on some existing card ideas (ex. Margrave instead of Militia)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Dark%20Ages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dark Ages&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More new Kingdom cards than any other set&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shelters provide an alternative to starting with 3 Estates&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New card type: Ruins. An action card that isn't very useful (brown border)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on giving other players junk and action chaining&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Guilds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guilds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Smaller set (12 Kingdom cards instead of 25)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;New Mechanic: Coin tokens that you gain and can spend later&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Emphasis on trashing cards and gaining coin tokens  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T16:20:51.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-01-06T02:31:40.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with warren, I would suggest that faster turns in the first few rounds will solve your problem as each turn is only as slow as the people playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lack of resources is likely due to one of the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Map setup: Make sure the map is based on one of the balanced examples provided. There are examples of balanced maps available online, use these until you get more experience playing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poor starting position selection: This comes down to experience, but having at least one square of brick in your starting 5/6 tiles is almost a necessity for new players.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crappy dice results: The only thing to do about this is just hurry up and take your turn and don't spend ages scanning the board. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to play Catan online as it's a good adaption and here are some things that I found help speed up a game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plan your turn when other people are playing theirs and try so you are ready to go when it's your turn. Try and pay attention to what resources other people have and where they are moving.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make the trading section ultra fast. Don't stare at your cards and think of the 100+ combinations you could possibly make if you just got that one card. Think about what you need and make your offer. If people don't have what you need or don't want to swap move on quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get to know which numbers come up frequently, so don't place your villages next to brick with 10 or 12, if you can't get 6 or 8 move near to 5 or 9.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, one common rule is the friendly robber. Which means you can't place the robber on a tile next to the village of a player with less than 3 points. This will give players some breathing space, especially those who are struggling to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T02:31:40.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2077" CreationDate="2011-01-06T04:32:16.747" Score="10" ViewCount="23803" Body="&lt;p&gt;With playing a long board game you have the satisfaction of the endurance and outsmarting your opponents. It's a struggle and winning is the glory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you play something like poker or Uno you are playing several games over and over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I play with friends we play with points or with poker chips and have either rewards or punishments to the winner or the loser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We try and avoid gambling with poker but this can result in people going all-in after less than 10 hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any suggestions for how you spice up games like Uno and poker to make them interesting without resulting to gambling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T03:50:20.537" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T19:41:05.643" Title="Rewards and punishments for card games" Tags="|house-rules|psychology|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="11" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-06T07:53:44.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Chores&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we went on holidays we'd often play card games in the evening to determine who had to get up in the morning to get fresh bread from the bakery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T07:53:44.003" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2073" CreationDate="2011-01-06T12:32:54.977" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have mostly played the game &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; this character, almost never without, so I can't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; compare. That being said, from our experience as a group, and from my personal experience of having been The Little Girl myself quite often, this character actually isn't all that powerful, and certainly not &quot;hugely overpowered&quot;. Whether I have seen the wolves or not, I still have just one vote, and I still have to defend it against others' views (with 10-15 people, our group is rather large). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I can always say &quot;listen up, people, I am the Little Girl, so follow my advice&quot;, but a) people don't have to believe me, since b) I might &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; be lying, and most importantly, c) the wolves will pay special attention to me from then on, and I'll probably get killed the very next night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, The Little Girl does become quite powerful when she's also the Village Chief, but then again, so does pretty much any character. Besides, from our experience, a Village Chief is even more likely to get killed quickly. I would say the game is pretty well-balanced, actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T12:32:54.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-06T14:18:40.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play poker &quot;without money&quot; if you use chips.  In order to give the chips value, you require that for anyone to &quot;re-supply&quot; their chips from the bank (that is, get more chips after losing all of theirs) they must perform some task;  this can range from &quot;Buy a round of beer&quot; to &quot;Is tasked with supplying the snacks next week&quot; or whatever your group can come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T14:18:40.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2073" CreationDate="2011-01-06T19:03:03.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played a lot of Werewolf, both with and without the Little Girl. One thing we've done to make sure the Little Girl works properly is adjusting lines of sight. Before even handing out the roles, we make sure that everyone can easily look at everyone else's face. It sounds simple, but we've found that it makes the Little Girl much more cautious - and the Werewolves more attentive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="528" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T19:03:03.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-06T20:48:17.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41114/the-resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Resistance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple 5-10 player social game where a set number of people are spies infiltrating a group of resistance fighters.  Brings out some of the witch hunt of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37111/battlestar-galactica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/a&gt; without all those pesky rules and components getting in the way.  Plays fast.  The recent printing has great quality components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="294" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T20:48:17.790" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-06T20:48:17.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2011-01-06T21:34:22.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple roles we use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vigilante&lt;/strong&gt; - A villager who picks someone they think is a werewolf to kill each night.  Can't be a werewolf.  Can choose not to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Little Girl&lt;/strong&gt; - Can peek out during the werewolf's turn at night and see who they are.  If she is spotted by the wolves, she dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magician&lt;/strong&gt; - Similar to the Seer, but where a seer can only query a player's role and get either is/is not a wolf, the magician can get role information about the player as well (for major roles we use; seer, healer, werewolf or villager, can be expanded with enough hand signs!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cupid&lt;/strong&gt; - In our version of cupid, the star-crossed lovers don't know each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="256" LastActivityDate="2011-01-06T21:34:22.790" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-06T21:34:22.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-07T00:06:16.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little surprised that no-one has mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/925/werewolf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Werewolf&lt;/a&gt; yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's quick to explain, quick to set up, works best with a large (9+) number of players, requires nothing more than a Poker deck, can be played by gamers and non-gamers, and still plays well if the players in the game have a wide range of play-skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T00:06:16.530" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-07T00:06:16.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1997" CreationDate="2011-01-07T03:46:06.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have answered how each expansion changes the game and what different behavior/strategies exist, so I'll comment on suggested order to buy expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Subjective/situational aspects&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it depends a lot on personal preference, whether you know anyone else with the game or intend to buy the game and how much money you want to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Personal preference&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like Intrigue as much because I prefer peaceful games over attacking/defending, but there are some cards in Intrigue that I definitely would not want to miss out on! My wife likes Prosperity the most because she likes games to last longer (more base victory points available with colony added) and she tends to prefer big money strategies. Neither of us like Alchemy very much. If you are going to buy them all anyways then order of purchase may not matter in the end, but if you only want certain experiences then I suggest you read all the answers/tips/suggestions and familiarize yourself with the cards so you can carefully make your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Friends&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a friend who enjoys playing base Dominion with you perhaps they might buy Intrigue so they will have a set of treasure/victory/curse cards themselves and then you could each decide who will buy the other expansions later. You can save money by ensuring you and your friends don't double up on games and expansions. If you are going over to someone else's home to play with them you won't need to carry as many boxes around and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cost&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you afford to buy them all? Do you want to buy them all? Your choice of expansions may be very situational...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;When everything is said and done...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are great cards in each set and the game has evolved over time so if you're going to buy them all why not buy them in the order they were released? That's what we did and I don't have any complaints, in fact I've enjoyed every minute of our experience with Dominion! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="689" LastEditorUserId="689" LastEditDate="2011-01-27T20:10:01.613" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T20:10:01.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-07T07:41:46.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Pool the Winnings&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just remembered something my parents did with Canasta. Instead of the looser paying the winner the looser paid into a pool. When the pool would grow large enough they'd spend it on holidays or something else they both liked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're playing in fixed group that might be an interesting alternative. If your group consists of different people all the time then they might not like that idea so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T07:41:46.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-07T17:24:28.933" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;There is no poker without gambling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Uno in ages, but perhaps the most fundamental mechanic in poker is the gambling. There is a modicum of skill in games like 5-card draw, where at least the player has a choice of what cards to discard, but in the most popular poker games, like Texas Hold'em or 5- and 7-card stud, the best hand is deterministic (slightly over-simplified because the way the cards get distributed is obviously modified as people fold, but given that no one knows what the next cards are poker is still effectively deterministic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poker is only fun because although the best hand is fait accompli to an omniscient observer the winner is not; players can only know and play the odds of what's to come, which they do with their bets. It is the betting and the concomitant broadcast of information (or mis-information) to the other players that makes the game, and without it Poker is like war (the card came) for adults: rote and pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the &quot;chips&quot; don't have to be money, as others have suggested, but they do have to have real value. Just playing with a stack of chips that hold no actual value to the players is meaningless because there's no disincentive to call every raise, which eliminates the ability to bluff and thus reduces the game to one played without chips. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice what I've found works best amongst adults is to pick a buy-in that's enough money that people care a little about losing it, but not enough that they're going to be bent out of shape if they go home empty handed--say $10-20. Then to ensure games don't end after 10 games, put a raise limit of say 25 cents and a re-raise limit of once per round. This naturally limits pot sizes and extends the game and works fairly well in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With kids (assuming you're willing to teach them how to play poker at all) a good system could involve one where chips can be purchased for doing extra chores and chips can be cashed in for privileges--with a side agreement on the chip value of various household tasks and treats. Then the kids can tend to their &quot;bank&quot; between settings and potentially learn something about delayed gratification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T17:24:28.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2809" CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:06:36.680" Score="31" ViewCount="8898" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, all games may be played with an ante, but it is often not mandatory for the game itself to be fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've long wondered what makes poker so different from everything else: poker, when played without real money, instantly becomes boring and random. And what's even more curious is that even a very small amount of money in play (say, 1€ per player on an 8-player table) is sufficient to turn the game into a very interesting and very disputed battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do there exist out there some other games that are meaningless when not played for money? I'm told that old timers always play backgammon with an ante, but I've played backgammon many times without, and found the game pretty interesting by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the big deal with poker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="694" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T03:34:42.127" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T08:13:05.763" Title="Why is real-money-betting necessary for poker to be fun?" Tags="|poker|psychology|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2011-01-07T18:31:55.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/805/buffy-the-vampire-slayer-the-game-us&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Buffy The Vampire Slayer, the 2000 Edition&lt;/a&gt; - sadly, this is now out of print and you have to get it from Ebay, but, it's a great co-op game with multiple players as good, and one player as evil.  Sadly, the later Buffy game is pretty lame.  But the 2000 one is a ton of fun - particularly if you're a Buffy fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T18:31:55.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2063" CreationDate="2011-01-07T19:25:31.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Pat in that it appears next to impossible to run out of any/all markers and tokens.  However, if this situation does arise, after reading the rules it appears that the intent is not to limit the players by the amount of tokens but rather that the supplies are given the numbers they are because they clearly can't just give you infinite of all supplies.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From reading through the rules I inferred that, should you run out of tokens that don't have any explicit result (like losing if you run out of gate tokens), they should just be replicated with paper and pen, or other odds and ends (pennies, paper clips, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T19:25:31.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-01-07T19:56:17.287" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poker is a game that really isn't very complex.  Once you have a basic grasp of some of the probabilities, you can sit down and start winning hands even against good players.  There aren't very many ways to &lt;em&gt;improve&lt;/em&gt; your odds of winning a given hand, important though it is to know what they are.  For boardgaming types like me, who like a complicated tangle of rules and factors in which it's possible to maximize one's chances, poker in and of itself does not seem to be a particularly interesting game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the very basic-ness of poker is actually what makes it a great game.  Once you've established that the major appeal of the game is not in its rules, it's pretty easy to see what poker becomes about: you're playing &lt;strong&gt;the other players&lt;/strong&gt;, not the cards.  Poker is all about the psychology of reading, bluffing and intimidating the other people at the table, free of the need to master a really complex set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I (and, I see, others) would say that this sort of thing can be fun without the introduction of real money to the equation.  But I can also see how real money does add something.  If there's nothing substantial at stake, then the players are basically jollying along and not taking the game very seriously.  If they lose concentration, go all in, and lose all their chips, so what?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd therefore suggest that real money poker is &quot;more fun&quot; insofar as, if you're pitting yourself against other players in a battle of deadly psychological warfare and stamina, you want them to be as focussed on the game as they possibly can be.  A real money stake sharpens the experience for all involved.  Makes the outcome actually &lt;em&gt;matter&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, as I've posited, there's not much more to poker than the psychological duel element, it will be highly unsatisfactory to play against people who are barely paying attention!  Whatever else you want to say about money, it sure gets people's attention...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T19:56:17.287" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2094" CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:23:55.767" Score="25" ViewCount="11282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired Dominion: Prosperity (yay Christmas) and came across the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=platinum&quot;&gt;Platinum&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=colony&quot;&gt;Colony&lt;/a&gt; Cards which are designed to be new Basic Cards (like Estate, Copper, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, should I (or do you) always play with Platinum and Colony even when you're not using Prosperity kingdom cards? Or do you only play with them if you're doing a Prosperity only game? Or do you use them whenever some (or certain) Prosperity cards are chosen as kingdom cards but otherwise you leave the Platinum and Colony to the side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2019-06-13T19:12:49.843" Title="Dominion: When to use Platinum and Colony" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2097" CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:29:47.543" Score="22" ViewCount="3311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=curse&quot;&gt;Curses&lt;/a&gt; always be laid out as a supply pile even when no kingdom cards give curses? Or should the only be available when a curse kingdom card is chose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An extension of this question could be should Curses be able to be purchased without being forced to get them by a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-02-05T18:57:00.993" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T18:57:00.993" Title="When should Curses be used? " Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:30:24.343" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Prosperity rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If only Kingdom cards from Prosperity are being used this game, then the Platinum and Colony piles are added to the Basic cards in the Supply for the game. If a mix of Kingdom cards from Prosperity and other sets are being used, then the inclusion of Platinum and Colony in the Supply should be determined randomly, based on the proportion of Prosperity and non-Prosperity cards in use. For example, choose a random Kingdom card being used - such as the first card dealt out from the Randomizer deck - and if it is from Prosperity, add Platinum and Colony to the Supply. Platinum and Colony are not Kingdom cards; when those are included, there are 10 Kingdom cards, plus Copper, Silver, Gold, Platinum, Estate, Duchy, Province, Colony, and Curse, in the Supply. Use 8 Colonies for a 2-player game, or 12 Colonies for a game with 3 or more players.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like there isn't much I can add to that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T20:30:24.343" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2093" CreationDate="2011-01-07T20:33:21.843" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules contain the following note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Curse cards are present in every game, however, they are rarely used in the basic game other than with the Witch card.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you can buy them just like any other card.  The question is, why anyone in their right mind would ever want to!  Just to show off, I guess :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T20:33:21.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-01-07T21:01:27.193" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Real money (or a real stake of some kind) makes poker more fun because it adds a basis for you to predict and interpret another player's actions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When no real money is involved, a player's bet will not be based on any real risk and thus will not tend to reflect the strength of their hand.  Their bet is correlated to their hand much more loosely, giving you less information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, you are less able to influence the other players with your own betting patterns.  If you make a big raise, there is very little reason for the other players to care - they can call your raise without any real risk, so they will tend to do so more often.  That is, their responses to your actions are ALSO correlated to their hand more loosely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately everyone at the table has less information to work with, so everyone's actions are more random and skill matters much less, making the game less fun for most people.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not much fun to discover someone stayed in the pot with a ridiculously lousy opening hand (like 2/7 offsuit) just because there was no risk involved.  This kind of thing happens much more with the absence of real money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T21:01:27.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-01-07T21:42:54.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poker requires a &quot;wager&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;–noun&#xA;  1.&#xA;  something of value risked or staked on an uncertain event; bet: to place a wager on a poker hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for poker to be fun or interesting at all, one must wager something with some sort of value. Usually it's chips or money. Could be anything, but it must be valuable in the context of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of a zero money holiday poker game. It's a holdem-tournament where all family members start with 100 chips. Basically, the top two winners get 1 week free from chores; and the bottom two are doing many dishes, shoveling snow, and taking out garbage. Believe me, the 10 and 12 year olds don't go &quot;all-in&quot; with crappy hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="52" LastEditDate="2011-01-07T21:48:48.317" LastActivityDate="2011-01-07T21:48:48.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2093" CreationDate="2011-01-08T03:43:35.133" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some subtle situations where you need to have curses on the table even without an explicit curse kingdom card. For example, the &lt;strong&gt;Swindler&lt;/strong&gt; from the Intrigue expansion lets you trash opponents cards and replace them with cards of equal value. If you're &lt;strong&gt;trashing a zero-value copper&lt;/strong&gt; you can &lt;strong&gt;replace it with a zero-value curse&lt;/strong&gt;. Without curses all you could do is replace it with another copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T03:43:35.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-08T05:11:47.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a group of friends who would play cards for water.  Hearts was the usual game.  A large glass of water was filled and placed in the center of the table.  Each hand, the person taking the most points (the loser) would drink the glass and refill it.  (In the event of a tie, everyone tied drinks a glass.)  It sounds like no big deal*, but give it a few games.  That glass of water &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; start to affect your play, especially with the queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(!) Drinking too much water too quickly can be very dangerous to your health.  That said, we never had any problems. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="669" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T05:11:47.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-08T05:22:06.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drinking Games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's the classic stand-by of weekend college parties...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any game can be a drinking game:  Make a mistake, take a drink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This is not my cuppa tea, but it's an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T05:22:06.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-01-08T05:27:41.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blam!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fun little piece-placing, abstract, unit management game...  No luck.  No hidden knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want one Icehouse stash per player.  Two to four players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules online: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/29/blam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/29/blam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asynchronous, online, at SuperDuper Games: &lt;a href=&quot;http://superdupergames.org/main.html?page=listgames#blam&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://superdupergames.org/main.html?page=listgames#blam&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T05:27:41.427" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-08T05:27:41.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2112" CreationDate="2011-01-08T10:34:22.607" Score="21" ViewCount="3044" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago I tried to learn to play contract bridge with some friends and I never really understood the philosophy (for want of a better word) of bidding.  It seemed as if we just had to learn a set of rules and apply them - e.g. if you have N points and a balanced hand, open with [whatever], if you're responding to your partner's bid of [whatever] do [something depending on your hand], etc.  It was some effort to learn even the basic set of these rules, and it appeared (at the very basic level we were playing) as if the whole bidding process could have been done perfectly by an algorithm running on a computer (or your phone :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, in bridge competitions one is obliged to disclose which conventions you and your partner use, which also suggests to me that the intention is that your bids are an open and deterministic description of your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with apologies for my naivety, my question is really where the skill lies in bidding well?  Or to what extent is the interest largely later on in the game, when applying what was learned through the bidding in playing the hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-06T15:29:55.240" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T15:29:55.240" Title="Is bidding in contract bridge just a matter of applying a set of rules?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2110" CreationDate="2011-01-08T12:42:31.257" Score="11" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often heard of the Carcassonne Catapult expansion, and I'm wondering, is it actually cool to use, or is it one of those novelties that will quickly wear off? Please give me your experience with this expansion. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T04:17:24.380" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:34:26.047" Title="Is the Catapult expansion as cool as it sounds?" Tags="|carcassonne|carcassonne-catapult|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2093" CreationDate="2011-01-08T16:42:15.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have all the expansions they're great for proxying other cards if you don't have attack cards that would use them. I only have the base set right now, and I've used curses to represent Colonies, platinums, and even more complicated cards from the other sets if everyone understands them. The blanks are also great for this. You can use kingdom cards as well, but I find its easier to forget that they actually mean something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T16:42:15.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:03:18.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer &lt;strong&gt;mild humiliation&lt;/strong&gt; to any actual risk. It tends to keep things good hearted and can easily be altered to suit any requirements. Naturally, everyone should consent to the rules to make sure fun stays the top priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;doing pushups while singing the national anthem for 30 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wearing something until a different person looses, like a jester's hat, while playing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loosing your chair and sitting on the floor until someone else looses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;altering the words you say when declaring your actions. IE every quantity has to be followed by a certain word, or every sentence must end with &quot;your excellency&quot; said to the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The possibilities are endless :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T18:27:53.880" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T18:27:53.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2106" CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:13:56.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen it demoed before, and I have no intention of getting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It definitely seems like a novelty, or at least for a younger demographic.  Judging by the reviews and ratings on BoardGameGeek, I'm not the only one who feels that way -- on their 1-10 scale, the Catapult expansion is rated a full 2.5 stars lower than the main Carcassonne set itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't like the idea of adding dexterity to my strategy games, and the new tiles look overly cutesy, but I could see kids getting a big kick out of it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T17:13:56.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2113" CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:38:20.680" Score="6" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;My curiosity in this variant was piqued by this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1039/games-that-have-no-element-of-luck/2030#2030&quot;&gt;comment&lt;/a&gt; in my '&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1039/games-that-have-no-element-of-luck&quot;&gt;Games that have no element of luck&lt;/a&gt;' thread. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to read an expanded explanation of the rule changes and peoples experience (positive or negative) with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-01-06T23:11:14.577" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T23:11:14.577" Title="How well does the Axis &amp; Allies Chess variant work?" Tags="|variants|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2105" CreationDate="2011-01-08T17:39:59.540" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bidding_system&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; says that any bridge bidding system is a well-defined form of legal table talk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each bidding system ascribes a meaning to every possible call by each member of a partnership, and presents a codified language which allows the players to exchange information about their card holdings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would seem to imply that there is no skill involved at all, but I think there's more to it than that.  I used to be a casual reader of the bridge quizzes printed in our newspaper.  They would tell stories of bridge tournaments where every table played the same hand, and different tables would arrive at slightly different contracts.  As the commenters have pointed out, there is some flexibility within the bidding system.  It's not an exact algorithm.  While everyone knows what your bid theoretically means in the context of your hand, you and partner still need to use that knowledge effectively to arrive at the most profitable contract.  The skill, therefore, is in correctly choosing the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; bid, not in decoding the bids or deceiving your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2011-01-09T22:03:07.507" LastActivityDate="2011-01-09T22:03:07.507" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2111" CreationDate="2011-01-08T20:30:43.863" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessvariants.org/wargame.dir/aa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies Chess Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay, I finally found the link to the website with the original &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessvariants.org/wargame.dir/aa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A&amp;amp;A Chess rules&lt;/a&gt;. To be honest I didn't play this variant much, but it seemed apropos to the original post about luckless games so I mentioned it. From my limited experience I can concur with the inventor's comments: although it looks identical to normal A&amp;amp;A they really are very different games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A&amp;amp;A Chess is about deciding how to position units to make them the most versatile: most able to contribute in an effective way on multiple fronts. It's about hiding your true attacking power by attacking with units based in multiple territories (i.e. using units your opponent didn't realize could reach) or by feinting one attack while intending all the while to make another (Calais v. Normandy?). In this way, the base strategies of Chess and A&amp;amp;A Chess are similar, although the mechanics have nothing in common except a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that there are two main reasons why people don't end up liking A&amp;amp;A Chess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They decided to play it because they'd been screwed by the dice too many times and are expecting this game to be normal A&amp;amp;A without bad rolls; it's not (see above).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Analysis paralysis. This is really a symptom of a certain style of player. Trying to understand the outcome of large, multi-round battles requires Rainman-like intuition or a lot of mental math. If you're playing with someone who's going to crunch numbers for 20 minutes before a battle then you're going to get bored.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preferred answer to both issues is also suggested on the site and goes by the name Low-Luck Axis and Allies. This variant still grants a hit for every six attack or defense points, but allows players to roll a single dice against their remainders. In statistical terms, LL A&amp;amp;A tightens up the variance around the expected result (i.e. reduces the potential influence of the random dice rolls). For mathematical reasons best explained on another stack exchange site, LL's effects are most noticeable in small battles, where a couple bad rolls can make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice is that if you're frustrated with bad dice rolling and just want to smooth out chance, go for LL A&amp;amp;A. If you're looking for a complicated and well-nigh impossible to optimize luckless war game then go with A&amp;amp;A Chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T13:09:33.060" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T13:09:33.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2116" CreationDate="2011-01-08T23:02:24.923" Score="49" ViewCount="290733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a player in checkers required to take a jump if one is available?  What about a double or triple jump if that is available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:31:23.770" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T04:11:37.143" Title="Must a player take a jump in checkers?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2011-01-08T23:23:14.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had the same rules that &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/cs/checkersdraughts/ht/play_checkers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; does (Rule 9), if you can jump, you have to jump at least once, but you don't have to jump any more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-01-08T23:23:14.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2011-01-08T23:24:27.153" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short -- for tournaments, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never played with forced jumps as a kid, but my father-in-law always plays with forced jumps.  So I did a little digging around, and this is what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The American Checker Federation seems to be the only sanctioned checkers organization I could find.  According to the American Checker Federation, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/rulesofcheckers.php&quot;&gt;rule #1.20&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.20  All capturing moves are compulsory, whether offered actively or passively...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="7258" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T04:11:37.143" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T04:11:37.143" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2125" CreationDate="2011-01-08T23:56:54.120" Score="20" ViewCount="154982" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the term for a stalemate in Checkers?  What are the official conditions for a &quot;no winner game&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="82" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T21:48:04.907" Title="What is the term for a stalemate in Checkers?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-01-09T04:46:21.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There used to be an A&amp;amp;A odds calculator that was unique because instead of the typical results of % chance of victory and perhaps the average number of units left, this program generated a plot. The x-axis was the number of units remaining at the end of combat. The far left was all attackers survive, the center mutual annihilation, and the far right defensive domination. The y-axis was the probability of any given outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this method of visualizing the results was so critical is because it opened my eyes to a key observation about combat in Axis and Allies. Given an even battle (where the vanilla calculator will predict a 50/50 chance of winning, one might suppose that they are therefore likely to win the combat with almost no surviving units. However, what the plot shows is that this is not what the laws of probability dictate actually occurs. In practice, even even if the chance of winning is 50/50, the number of units likely to survive is going to be surprising large for the victor. This happens because a good first round has a positive feedback effect, making that side more likely to win round 2, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with this knowledge your game play can improve dramatically. You realize the importance of re-assessing any attack after each round of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll keep looking for this calculator and post the link if I can find it. I first used it about 7 years ago. It wasn't online, it was a compiled program written in VisualBasic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-09T04:46:21.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-01-09T08:49:54.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the tactical level, the AI for A&amp;amp;A is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minimax&quot;&gt;minmax&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-sum&quot;&gt;zero-sum&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_tree&quot;&gt;game tree&lt;/a&gt; with some fuzziness.  We have a structure that represents game state (board and pieces), the relative score of each player for that state (value of troops and land income), and a set of transitions (i.e. moves) from that state to new states.  Transitions can weighted by probability of outcome (this is what the simulators in other answers supply).  The relative values of starting state and ending states can be compared to determine which moves seem good or bad. These results are scaled by the weight (likely outcome). More sophisticated implementations would go deeper into &quot;promising&quot; branches to check opponent payoff (i.e. whether this move give an opponent an even better counterattack opportunity).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_complexity&quot;&gt;very, very big game tree&lt;/a&gt;. Pruning will be essential, and there are some obvious things to try ignoring (attacking with less than all your troops, for example).  But it's relatively straightforward AI problem and there is a lot of info about solving it on the web. Maybe it's a bit harder because of the 5 players, 2 teams mechanic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to picking battles, there's the purchase, non-combat move, and deployment phases. The interesting problem with these choices is their impact will be felt 2-4 steps down the game tree.  It might be possible to model this into the tactics tree, or its own separate tree, but the breadth intimidates me.  2-4 turns, 5 actors, 1-11 (on average) new pieces, 12 or so possible pieces, multiple possible deployments...  If I had to try this, I'd tackle it in separate stages.  Movement can be handled as first minimizing opponent payoff in one transition.  If payoff is minimized without movement, stack to strongest front.  If no strongest front, go to front of preference.  I'd probably hardcode deployment, and placement of any additional factories, until everything else was working and I had lots of free time.  I'd try purchasing as a kind of lookup table based on current troop IPC value, or if playing with infantry defends on 1, try purchasing with troop ratios (that is, try to have 6 infantry to 2 artillery to 2 tanks to 1 plane, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the &quot;grand strategy&quot; level (i.e. if no strongest front), fronts of preference are defined per standard strategy--Axis prefer to attack Russia, then Britain, then US and Allies prefer to attack Germany, then Japan.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are other ways to do it and mine is just one step removed from brainstormed.  There's surely better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="669" LastActivityDate="2011-01-09T08:49:54.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2011-01-09T16:41:32.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such term, because there is no such thing as a stalemate in checkers. It is always possible for at least one player to win, although in some cases that would require extraordinarily poor play by the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT to reply to comment:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I know this is really getting into semantics, but the question &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; about terminology. Your position seems to be that &quot;stalemate&quot; and &quot;draw&quot; are synonymous. I believe &quot;stalemate&quot; is merely the specific case where a player must move but cannot make a legal move, resulting in a draw. The very rule you cited states that, in checkers, if one player cannot make a legal move, the other player wins. By definition, that's not a draw, so in my mind, that's not a stalemate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="704" LastEditorUserId="704" LastEditDate="2011-01-09T17:15:26.920" LastActivityDate="2011-01-09T17:15:26.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2105" CreationDate="2011-01-09T21:02:03.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, bidding was difficult for me to get my head around, at first, too.  I liked the idea of sharing a system with my partner - but intuitively it seemed as if this should be secret information, to be kept from the opponents, to hopefully confound and overwhelm them.  The fact that, if your opponents ask you &quot;what did your partner's bid mean?&quot;, you are obliged to answer them honestly was initially alien.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that: it's only your &lt;strong&gt;system&lt;/strong&gt; that has to be revealed to your opponents.  If they ask you &quot;what did your partner's bid mean?&quot;, all you need to disclose is what partner's bid &lt;em&gt;ought&lt;/em&gt; to mean, according to your system.  If your partner is getting a little bit creative with his bidding, based on the complexities of a particular hand... well, there's no realistic way to keep the opponents informed of that.  As a friend of mine was very fond of saying: &quot;If you lie to one partner and two opponents, you've made a profit on the deal.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So fundamentally I don't see any problem with bidding systems being open information.  There  would be no glory in beating your opponents because they doubled you assuming your no trump bid was weak, when in reality it was strong.  You have to work pretty hard to outsmart your opponents during the bidding sequence, which makes it all the sweeter when you manage to do it!  But in the end, the actual play is more important, and that's where the opportunities to be deceitful (through falsecarding and such) really shine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-09T21:02:03.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2117" CreationDate="2011-01-10T01:55:54.310" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/rulesofcheckers.php&quot;&gt;American Checker Federation&lt;/a&gt; (see rule 12), a tie game is called a &lt;strong&gt;draw&lt;/strong&gt;.  The conditions for a draw are similar to the 50-move rule in chess.  Basically, one player asks the other to prove he can win (or get closer to winning) in the next 40 moves or the game ends in a draw.  I imagine this would only really occur in high level play, perhaps by several kinged pieces moving endlessly around the board with neither side gaining an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A condition like a stalemate in chess (where a player has no legal move to make) results in a loss for the player whose turn it is to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T01:55:54.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2137" CreationDate="2011-01-10T02:11:43.237" Score="11" ViewCount="8155" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played my first game of Ticket to Ride and we loved it. Our only issue was making it a little faster. We had some small obvious ideas that wouldn't affect the gameplay much, like keep score on paper, play the game when each player has 4 less trains, start the game with 7 cards, and get a free route at the beginning. However I'm still curious about some more drastic boosts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here were a few other ideas that actually affect the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw 3 cards if you choose to draw train cards. Locomotives still cost 2 normal draws.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each turn you draw 2 cards AND get the opportunity to claim a route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can substitute 3 cards of any one color for a locomotive when building. (stolen from the ferries in the other versions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 cards stay face up instead of 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other affects will each of these have on the game? Are there any other good ways to speed things up? How can I decrease the time required to play while keeping as much of the original feel of the game as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-08T16:01:36.933" LastActivityDate="2023-02-16T13:55:51.537" Title="Good ways to speed up a game of Ticket to Ride" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:17:11.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say, just reduce the number of train cars in each players' pool.  This would have an obvious, linear effect on the speed of the game without any dramatic side effects on the strategy and gameplay.  The only thing you'd need to worry about is keeping enough trains in the pool that any cross-country route, if drawn, would still be playable - off the top of my head, I'd say that would be somewhere in the 20s, though it might be wise to add a few trains on top of that, to give wiggle room in the event of another player claiming a crucial route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say, I find it a tiny bit odd that you'd want to speed up Ticket to Ride - it never struck me as a particularly long game!  If you're consistently finding that to be the case, I suggest you try the strategy of just playing out lots of random routes really fast (instead of trying to build based on your destination cards) to end the game early, hopefully before other players can reach all the ambitious destinations in their hand.  After that, the rest of your group may not be &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; so keen on house rules to make the game even shorter :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T03:17:11.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2011-01-10T03:29:25.250" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play more games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said yourself that you've only played once.  It'll go faster once you get a few games under your belt and everyone gets over the initial analysis paralysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hesitant to recommend any of those proposed changes.  I've played maybe a half dozen games and my gut feeling is your suggested house rules would all have a negative impact in some way (and not actually make the game play faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T03:29:25.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-10T05:00:26.280" Score="14" ViewCount="2694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I told some of my friends and co-workers about a board game I designed, and we're hoping to play it sometime soon. However, I am not sure if I should let everyone sign a non-disclosure agreement or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a board game that I have put a lot of time into. I haven't made anybody sign an agreement so far (Played various times with friends and family), but as the game is getting closer to a finished product, I feel like it would be professional to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of agreement/document would be appropriate, if I do get an NDA? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="706" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T08:26:21.857" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T06:21:20.407" Title="Non-disclosure agreement or no?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2132" CreationDate="2011-01-10T06:49:53.897" Score="34" ViewCount="19597" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a scenario to illustrate my question.  My wife and I were playing Ticket To Ride: Nordic Countries earlier this evening - apologies if you don't own this particular edition, but hopefully the basic situation will be obvious to anyone who's played any TTR, even if you're unfamiliar with the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd both drawn a poor selection of Destination cards and kept only two each.  My first play was Orebro - Stockholm.  The next two routes were played by my wife: Kobenhavn - Karlskrona, and Karlskrona - Norrkoping.  At this point, with a spare red ticket in my hand, I opportunistically played Stockholm - Norrkoping!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With both the southern entries to Stockholm blocked, my poor wife now had no choice, if she wanted to link Kobenhavn to the top right segment of the board, to undertake a cruelly circuitous route, involving three turns and ten tickets, instead of one single ticket and a single turn.  I patiently endured the two minutes of dire recriminations and imprecations that followed my dastardly move, and ended up winning the game by in the region of 20 points - hardly a landslide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering whether this kind of thing would be considered poor sportsmanship in other groups.  I ask because there was a question on this very site about whether it was poor form, in Settlers of Catan, to pretend to want to trade for a good, to sneakily fish for information before playing a Monopoly card.  To me that seems like a perfectly sensible procedure, but a lot of people seemed horrified at such unsportsmanlike practice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an argument that one should play Ticket to Ride only &quot;by the book&quot; - making only plays that actively help to score Destination cards in one's hands.  I would counter that, in an exclusively 2/3 player game like Nordic Countries, blocking one or both of the other players can be just as beneficial as straightforwardly aiming to score routes, if not more so.  If another player has drawn and kept 5 amazingly compatible routes and I am going to struggle with my 2, why is it unfair for me to &quot;even the odds&quot; a little by throwing a spanner into my opponent's works?  Essentially, I don't understand why it's okay for me to try to crush an opponent by &quot;above board&quot; means, and not okay to do that by &quot;devious&quot; play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game with many players I think a purely blocking move could be slightly more dubious, on the ground that it will probably only mess with some players, allowing others to pull ahead: it's kingmaking, basically, and that can be really annoying.  But is there anything wrong with such tactics in a 2-3 player game, where it can obviously be an effective route to victory?  Would a player who regularly tries to spoil your plans rather than concentrate on his own be &lt;em&gt;persona non grata&lt;/em&gt; before too long?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly it really gets my wife's goat - I'm lucky I'm not sleeping on the couch tonight!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-15T17:04:15.987" LastActivityDate="2023-03-17T00:10:17.197" Title="How Unethical Is A Purely &quot;Blocking&quot; Move In Ticket To Ride?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|etiquette|tactics|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-01-10T07:51:10.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion this is a justifiable move. You compared it with the pretend trades in Catan. I'd say that the Catan situation is much more borderline than this: One exploits a player's trust to gain an advantage. In your situation you are merely speculating on your opponent's goals and sacrifice a turn to make a counter move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all however depends on your group. If it's a very non-confrontational group then this move will get you more criticism than in a cutthroat group. You'll also have to be prepared to handle the consequences when the rest of your group adapt to this play style and become more confrontational themself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Tock/Dog (Pachisi variant) games we usually play all nice and non-confrontational at the beginning. But at some point one person just has too good of an opportunity to send someone else home and takes it. After that, war is pretty much inevitable and people send each other home as often as they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T07:51:10.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-01-10T07:51:19.453" Score="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems nothing unethical about such a move - opposite to your example of pretending to want to trade (which in my book is clearly unethical because it involves active &lt;em&gt;lying&lt;/em&gt;), this move is just one of two main winning strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get more points for yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit points of the opponents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no &lt;em&gt;lying&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;obfuscation&lt;/em&gt; - you are making it harder to win for the opponent by legal game means without any metagaming (like looking at an opponent's cards or hustling opponents into telling you some information which you shouldn't know while playing by the rules, like in your Settlers example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically this move could be similar to a situation in Settlers when you put a robber on someone and also yourself - you are losing something (a turn in TTR) but in certain situations limiting the opponent more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T16:00:26.353" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T16:00:26.353" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2011-01-10T08:23:57.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer: Ask a lawyer.&lt;/strong&gt; Unless you happen to find one here, I wouldn't rely on information from the internet to be legally accurate. I'm not a lawyer and what I do know about laws pertains to Swiss Laws and is likely different in your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I was once told in a class about laws is that in such a situation you should &lt;strong&gt;make a copy&lt;/strong&gt; of your drafts and deposit it with a &lt;strong&gt;notary&lt;/strong&gt; and have him date the draft with a legally recognized &quot;certificate&quot;. That way if someday you need to prove that you had that particular idea first this will go a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that in a few months Hasbro (for example) publishes a game suspiciously similar to yours. What is it you really want? I assume it's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recognition for the idea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting them to stop selling the thing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting compensation from them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An NDA would only allow you to go after the person that passed the information along (if you even find out). But this is probably the least of your concerns. I'm no expert but I don't think you really need a formalized agreement to go after an imitator once you have established that it is you who is being imitated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-01-10T08:29:05.180" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T08:29:05.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1741" CreationDate="2011-01-10T10:16:01.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is that it's not actually possible, and as a result my single playing was sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was really disappointed because it's a beautiful game with a lot of neat ideas. If it was also a real deduction game I'd like it much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T10:16:01.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2011-01-10T12:28:30.623" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is no. I've played early and late prototypes from dozens of published boardgame designers including several who are successful enough to do it for a living and I've never been asked to sign an NDA by any of them. Boardgame ideas just aren't worth stealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I've been asked to sign boardgame NDAs is by unpublished designers who were inordinately fond of their ideas (no insult intended). Most ideas don't actually turn into publishable games, and even when they do, a very small percentage of &lt;em&gt;them&lt;/em&gt; actually get published.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, boardgame ideas aren't actually protectable: the only law that protects ideas is a patent, and no boardgame patent has been successfully defended in court (the only exceptions are games with mechanical designs, like &lt;em&gt;Hungry, Hungry Hippos&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;MouseTrap&lt;/em&gt;). If you want to see money wasted search the patent office for boardgame patents: I've paged through hundreds and have yet to find one that actually became a recognizable published game. I know of two examples of patented games that were published, and only one of them, &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; went on to make any money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about your idea being stolen. Focus on playing the game with as many people as possible, and then when you think you've got something publishable, get as many people as you can &lt;em&gt;that you don't know&lt;/em&gt; to play it &lt;em&gt;without you there&lt;/em&gt;, just with rules and a prototype (called &quot;blind playtesting&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your idea survives all of the changes you'll discover you need to make after you work through the results of blind playtesting, then start approaching publishers. You'll discover that none of them will sign NDAs either, though for a more practical reason: they may well have something in development that is astonishingly like your game, and they'd lose the ability to publish it due to the NDA. That, or they've already received submissions that are remarkably similar to yours, with the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that most ideas, including game ideas, build on what already exists, consciously or not, and that very similar or even identical ideas come to multiple people at about the same time, as they're exposed to much the same things. It doesn't mean it's not worth pursuing, it's just a matter of the reality of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I don't mean to discourage you; rather, I encourage you to go forth and test, redesign, and test some more until you've polished something really great. And then I look forward to playing it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am not an attorney, so do not take what I've told you as legal advice. I am relaying what I've learned from publishers and designers while involved in the game design world over the last ten years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T12:28:30.623" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-01-10T14:18:01.060" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends on how much longer you want to keep playing board games with your wife! :-)  Every gaming group tolerates a different level of &quot;screwosity&quot; - people making blocking moves such as yours only to derail an opponent.  My group loves it.  It sounds like your wife doesn't.  It's not specific to Ticket to Ride.  If your wife wants to play where you can only advance your own cause, then you'll have to adapt to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all fairness to you, your wife possibly made a tactical error.  If there's a critical leg in one of your routes, you need to claim it &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;.  You don't have to build your route in order.  We don't know if she had the card to do that though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T14:18:01.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2011-01-10T15:25:44.310" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will speed up with a few additional plays. Honestly, I suggest starting with people getting more experience before modifying the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked about how your ideas will effect gameplay, so I'll tackle that, having been involved in balancing a lot of games. The game was playtested hundreds of times to reach the balance it's at now, so some things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;keep score on paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll lose the easy checking to see who's ahead and who's behind, which should affect your play. On paper you'd either have to do without or keep asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;play the game when each player has 4 less trains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were playing I'd be much more likely to dump the long tickets because it's not at all uncommon that they're completed in the last couple of turns of the game, especially with 4 or 5 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;start the game with 7 cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably wouldn't cause any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;get a free route at the beginning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tricky. They'd have to be the same length (or same maximum length), and if it's long it will help people with western tickets much more than eastern ones. It would also change the early game quite a bit, where people traditionally build up a pretty large hand of cards before laying down, so as to not give anything away to others about how they could block you. It will likely hurt ticket completion a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You draw 3 cards if you choose to draw train cards. Locomotives still cost 2 normal draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this will help longer routes more than shorter ones, again with the western/eastern division. Each card draw will be slower (draw, fill, draw, fill, draw), but it would still likely be a speed-up. The bigger problem is that drawing cards will help your game much more than playing them, so it will again favor longer routes, making the already-somewhat-imbalanced longer routes much easier to complete, so the luck of the ticket draw will have an even stronger effect on what many consider an existing flaw (the 1910 ticket replacement add-on is designed to fix it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each turn you draw 2 cards AND get the opportunity to claim a route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This won't speed the game up as much as you'd think: the cleverness in the current system is that after you draw cards you have the whole rest of the round to think about what you'll do with them. With this change after drawing players will have to think through what they'll lay down while everyone waits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they play first and draw second, they'll still need to weigh the cards on display with what route to claim, knowing they're about to draw from them. With the regular game there's no point in thinking about them because they'll likely be significantly changed before it comes around to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can substitute 3 cards of any one color for a locomotive when building. (stolen from the ferries in the other versions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should have no negative effect, though I don't know that it will actually speed things up, since yes, you'll finish that route, but the train car to played card ratio will actually go down. More tickets will likely be completed, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7 cards stay face up instead of 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will also favor longer routes, exacerbating that problem. It will increase decision time a bit, but speed up route completion for everyone equally. You'll need to decide on a rule for how many locomotives have to be showing to wipe, likely 4 instead of 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, I'm not trying to knock all of your ideas. I just see rippling balance issues that are worth considering. If you implement any of them, I suggest getting a few more games under your belt first so you can more clearly see the consequences, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T15:25:44.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:34:42.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We definitely block in our group, though not as much anymore, since I've discovered that I'm usually too tight for trains for routes to be able to do it much.  I've really hosed myself sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play online, you'll definitely see blocking moves played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T16:34:42.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:37:11.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;A href=&quot;http://www.thedicetower.com/thedicetower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dice Tower Reviews&lt;/a&gt; goes over a mind-boggling variety of games.  They have a great &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/user/thedicetower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;youtube channel&lt;/a&gt; worth subscribing too.  I'd also suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.downtimetown.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Downtime Town&lt;/a&gt; for great, ludicrous, and nuanced reviews - the Scottsman who reviews there is a total nut.  Sadly, hasn't been updated lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T16:37:11.333" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-10T16:48:36.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2011-01-10T16:52:11.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same problem so I created a free iPhone/iPod touch app for this-- it supports up to 6 players and is very simple to use.  Check out &quot;Game MultiTimer Free&quot; on the app store.  As someone said above, it's not a great model for something like Settlers, but it works great for games like Rummikub or scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Tim" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T16:52:11.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1162" CreationDate="2011-01-10T20:38:02.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today I talked with a friend who has experience playing Dog this way. According to him the game is much more competitive when played 2 vs 2 vs 2 instead of 3 vs 3. There are more enemy pieces underway and they have more opportunities to intercept yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still looking forward to playing this variant myself one day, but at least the question is answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T20:38:02.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:13:30.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this a specialized house rules set of cards because normally with two players you would not use 12 of every card, and I don't think Colony and Platinum are meant to be used this way... but we had fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played a two player game where we decided to not end the game until the very last moment possible. We just wanted to see how high we could get our scores and how long the game would last (about 1-1.5 hrs). We played until two of the supply stacks ran out then it was a race to get whatever other supply cards we wanted until there was 1 left at which point we were no longer allowed to buy from that stack because it would end the game. We just kept buying from other supply stacks until nothing was left and we ended the game buying either the last Province or Colony. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final score was 223 to 205. We each had between 102-109 cards in our decks so Gardens were worth 10 each. I think only 3 Colonies were sold throughout the game. The score could have been higher if more Colony cards had been purchased before the game ended with the last Province sold or if more cards were in our decks causing the Gardens to be worth more. These are the cards we used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 x Great Hall&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Islands&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Gardens&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Dukes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Nobles&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Harem&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10 x Baron&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10 x Scout&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10 x Haven&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10 x Adventurer *   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 x Estate&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Duchy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Province&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Colony (as Kingdom not Supply)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;12 x Platinum (as Kingdom not Supply)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* We figured Adventurer was kind of a &quot;wild card&quot; that could be replaced with a number of different options. We chose Adventurer to keep the game simple but you could use anything here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="689" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T21:13:30.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2144" CreationDate="2011-01-10T21:26:47.680" Score="8" ViewCount="19041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey!  A few of my friends have gotten into ticket to ride, and we've been trying to determine a few strategies - obviously there's the build long trains and ignore tickets, or just accumulate a lot of tickets.  But what are some of your other favorite TTR strategies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T04:30:55.423" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T04:30:55.423" Title="Ticket to Ride Strategies" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-01-12T19:19:29.837" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:16:20.797" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finish your routes, prevent others from completing theirs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride doesn't strike me as a strategy-heavy game.  It's all about making good tactical decisions - completing your tickets in light of random card draws and other players' actions.  Remember that unfinished tickets count for &lt;em&gt;negative&lt;/em&gt; points at the end of the game.  My basic gameplay goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose tickets I think I can finish.  The big routes are much harder to complete in a 4- or 5-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If possible, avoid telegraphing where my routes are going.  Others can block you easily if they know you need a certain leg.  That leads directly into...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Claim the critical legs first.  If I need a one-train leg, get it as soon as I have the card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can block, do it, but make it a good block.  Spending your turn solely to block probably only scores you a few points.  If that player then goes around your block, he scores &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; points &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; he still completes his route.  Not worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once my routes are done, decide if a new route(s) is worth the risk.  There's a chance you could pull all 20's, basically guaranteeing you won't win.  With fewer trains remaining, I think the better play is to go for long links of opportunity.  A six-train link is 15 points, even if it doesn't connect to anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T22:16:20.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-01-10T22:17:45.683" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;By your mention of &quot;build long trains&quot; I take it you're talking about the USA edition.  (The Nordic Countries edition, for example, doesn't have a longest route bonus, but a &quot;most routes&quot; bonus instead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride USA is a pretty simple game, but there is still a reasonable depth of strategy.  One of my favourite tactics is: end the game early.  Keep a careful eye on how many trains are left in your pool.  Say you have 14 trains left: with the right cards you can play two 6-length routes, and that's the game ended.  Hopefully your opponents don't see it coming, and have a mitt full of unfulfilled destination cards that will score them big negative points - not to mention all the trains in their pool they now don't have time to play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, that's my number one strategy recommendation: &lt;strong&gt;keep an eye on how quickly you can bring about the end of the game&lt;/strong&gt;.  You certainly want to be in control of this if possible, rather than letting someone else dictate it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-10T22:17:45.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6" CreationDate="2011-01-11T06:00:29.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Fine the way it is?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't feel that Dominion's out-of-the-box card storage, setup, or clean-up need any improvement. The box comes with clearly labeled and organized trays: cards are grouped by type (kingdom, victory point, etc.) and then alphabetically. I have basic and two expansion sets and keep everything in the original boxes. It might be a little big if you were flying, but to go over to a friend's house via car it's hardly cumbersome. Plus, once the game's set up the boxes don't have to take up table space. Put them on the ground or on another table or stack them on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the ideas for divide and conquer during setup and cleanup make perfect sense. I assume that almost all play groups do this without even thinking about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several answers have mentioned an iPhone app for selecting Kingdom cards. This strikes me as a solution in search of a problem, and I'm curious why the app is so popular. lilserf explains it's capabilities well, but why is an app easier than the randomizer cards designed expressly for this purpose? What's easier than selecting 10 cards at random from a deck? I can do that before the app even loads. In fact, the old-school method is probably quicker because each card can be handed to someone as it's selected so the deck can be retrieved. Natural division of labor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like to play with cards from all the expansions then shuffle and store the randomizer decks together; otherwise, pick a few from each expansion set based on what kind of game you want. If you pull a card that folks don't like (Smithy for example) just draw another. If you all hate it, remove the card from your randomizer deck. If you're playing with black market, the unselected randomizer cards are the black market deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tailoring to ensure games with attack cards also have reactions, that undermines some of the charm of the game: learning to adapt to any situation that comes up. Prohibiting something a priori is doing your group a dis-service.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T22:30:42.270" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T22:30:42.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2171" CreationDate="2011-01-11T07:04:45.867" Score="7" ViewCount="2178" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my weekly boardgames night earlier this evening I was roped into an all-expansions, 6-player game of Dominion.  A girl on the sidelines piped up: &quot;You should take out the Goons card.  It takes all the fun out of the game.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say... one of the ten cards randomly selected was the Goons.  Those of us who hadn't played with the most recent expansions inspected the card.  Forcing everyone else to discard down to 3 did seem liable to slow the game to the crawl... but the card &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; cost a pricey 6.  How bad could it be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPokc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started with a 2-5 copper split and bought a Haven and a Trading Post.  From there I was able to whittle my deck free of Coppers and Estates until it was a pretty efficient collection of Silvers and Golds.  Even though the player who was buying up Goons was hitting me more turns than not, the three cards left in my hand tended to be worth 5-8 before too long, leaving me in a good position to keep buying Gold, Province and Duchy cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended the game with 36 points; second place.  The &quot;Goon player&quot; had a fairly crazy 48 points.  What annoyed me about this is that he hadn't really needed to bother scrabbling to buy Provinces with the rest of us: just playing a lot of Goons and buying stuff had allowed him to amass a stack of victory point chips that left the rest of us in the dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that there was a pile of Secret Chambers on the table that most of us failed to buy; I could certainly have done with a few, to sculpt my hand against the Goons and dodge the Spy attacks that almost all the other players at the table seemed to be throwing around with abandon.  But it still seems to me that there may be a fair accusation to be levelled against the Goons.  For the price of a Gold, they're a much improved Silver - they can easily net you a couple of Estate's worth of free victory points every time you play them, with none of the downsides to the efficiency of your deck! And if that wasn't bad enough, they are also a really annoying attack, with, as previously mentioned, the potential to slow the whole game to half speed if they are constantly being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously no card in Dominion is unconditionally broken: for any card, there will always be a configuration of available cards that will combat it efficiently.  But are Goons too far along the un-fun end of the spectrum?  Was the girl at my group right to propose that they should be removed from the game for its own good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:35:04.080" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T16:34:22.720" Title="Are the Goons un-fun?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|balance|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-04-04T07:28:29.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2147" CreationDate="2011-01-11T07:24:29.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;NO&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goons is just an upgraded Militia. Had your friend never played with Militia before? All Attack cards are designed to slow down your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xTqQb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZQR6j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;alt text&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T07:24:29.063" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-01-11T16:23:50.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;H2&gt;Concentrate your routes on the Main Cities&lt;/H2&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain cities that appear in a lot of routes, so making sure you get at least two and preferable three of these will help you when you pull more objective cards, since you'll be able to match more routes, and there are a lot of routes to these cities that give big points.  Even if you don't ever need to, you should plan your strategy ahead (based on the first cards you pull) to get three of the big four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a very analytical article on rating the most valuable cities, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.graphgraph.com/2011/10/most-valuable-cities-in-ticket-to-ride/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Its focus is on the number of points associated with a given city, and the number of paths into that city (points/paths).  It is good analysis, though I think there are more factors such as critical routes, blockability, helpful for longest train, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their breakdown for the 4-5 player Mega Game (USA) is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miami (30.67)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Las Vegas (25.00)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles (21.67)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver (19.67)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New York (13.86)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always used these as my cities of preference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New York&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Note: I will be doing more research on the numbers and will update this.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T19:26:14.087" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T19:26:14.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2152" CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:31:56.603" Score="27" ViewCount="30197" Body="&lt;p&gt;This had never even crossed my mind as an issue before, but someone brought it up in a comment on another TTR-related question, and having checked the USA rulebook I'm no longer 100% sure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When calculating who gets the &quot;Longest Route&quot; bonus card, do you go by number of train cars in the route, or number of links/cities in the route?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the official answer will be well-known to anyone who plays a lot of Ticket To Ride online, but for those of us who don't... what's the correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2021-08-17T01:03:34.130" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T21:43:47.780" Title="Is the &quot;Longest Route&quot; in Ticket to Ride determined by train cars or cities?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2151" CreationDate="2011-01-11T17:42:05.630" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner of the longest continuous number of train cars is the one who gets the Longest Path card.  (It works just like Longest Road in &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an image provided by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/451/matthew-frederick&quot;&gt;Matthew Frederick&lt;/a&gt; from his original edition of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XG2R0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Longest Path card showing that it's calculated based on the number of train cars - black route consists of 11 cars, while blue route consists of 8, so black has the longest path&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also notes that the online versions provided by &lt;em&gt;Days of Wonder&lt;/em&gt; work this way as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="13349" LastEditDate="2021-08-31T21:43:47.780" LastActivityDate="2021-08-31T21:43:47.780" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2222" CreationDate="2011-01-11T18:30:15.907" Score="5" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin Quest, what is the difference between 'passageways' and 'regular doors'? They both cost 1 movement, and I don't think monsters are affected. So, how are they different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="712" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-01-12T16:54:49.547" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T09:56:28.547" Title="What is the difference between 'passageway' and 'regular door' links?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2163" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:06:56.947" Score="20" ViewCount="11309" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you analyze a Dominion Kingdom set to determine what your strategy is going to be for the game? In other words, are you looking for specific cards? for abilities (e.g., trashing cards or chaining actions)? for combos (e.g., if I draw these two cards together then I can do X)? for counter-strategies? How do you rank those things in your evaluation process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to learn what the thought process behind the strategy looks like, so walking through specific examples, like the suggested Kingdom card setups, would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to use any Dominion expansions in your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T14:22:47.533" Title="Evaluating a Dominion Kingdom set" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:54:32.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You guys did a good job of pretty much everything, so I'll just add this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to draw destination cards early in the game. I almost always draw destinations in my first few turns. If you draw early you can plan routes that will let you easily access anywhere you need to get. Usually there's some redundant track between one of the new destinations and your current ones, and if you identify this early you can really slaughter by fulfilling lots of tickets that are super similar. Since you only have to keep one out of 3 you can usually get something useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T19:54:32.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2011-01-11T19:57:26.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only an occasional Dominion player so take any advice from me with a pinch of salt, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I'd be looking for &lt;strong&gt;a couple of cards that seem like they would combo well with each other&lt;/strong&gt;.  In my first few games I was like a kid in a candy store, buying one each of many different action cards.  This was all well and good, except the performance of my deck was pretty much completely random!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most newbies, like me, just don't get that building quick money and then early Provinces can often be a surer route to victory than splashing out on a dozen &quot;cool&quot; action cards.  If you are investing in actions, you'd better make sure they are (a) good, (b) good in combination with each other, and (c) not clogging up valuable slots in your deck that would be better off having Silvers in them!  As such, you want to err on the side of buying fewer action cards, not more, in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other important consideration: immediately check what Attack cards are available, and also what defences.  If there is a really good Attack out there, jumping on it early and in multiples can cripple your opponents' effectiveness before they have time to develop their game.  Conversely, if someone else beats you to the punch and is clearly about to start throwing out attacks every turn, make sure you have the Reaction cards you need to survive such an onslaught, if at all possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T19:57:26.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:13:25.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally the first thing I look for is trashing cards or other deck thinners - Chapel, Steward, Ambassador, etc.  Nothing opens up the opportunity for a powerful deck, regardless of other available cards, like a thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next I'll generally look for action-draw chains like Laboratory, Alchemist, or Village + a heftier draw card.  This is mostly because I personally get a kick out of splashy action chains, even though they're not always best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoping out the existing attacks is good - some Attack cards are more popular than others.  If Pirate Ship is out there, you'd better have a plan to account for it even if you're not personally going to buy any.  I personally don't tend to attack much so I mostly focus on how I'll defend the clear attacks on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all this basic stuff is clear in your mind, sometimes you really just have to wing it and hope to spot a cool interaction between cards on the board.  Sometimes the best play really is Silver + Silver the first two turns until you see what the others will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T20:13:25.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2317" CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:31:24.413" Score="3" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that there are 2 extra colors on the color die, and you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/pawns/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;buy the pawns separately&lt;/a&gt;, is there a way to play Munchkin Quest without the expansion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize there are no stands for the monsters, but would any of the rules be affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="712" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-11T21:44:57.603" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T00:00:05.903" Title="Is there a way to play Munchkin Quest with 5 people without the expansion?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2249" CreationDate="2011-01-11T20:56:42.790" Score="7" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently begun playing Claustrophobia &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36932/claustrophobia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;sup&gt;BGG&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and have found myself playing the human side almost every time. The problem I encounter is - I'm &lt;em&gt;winning&lt;/em&gt;. This is not usually a problem for me. But something about Claustrophobia has clicked for me, and I'm winning. A lot. It's making people not want to play with me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have discovered the handicaps, and my family has agreed to have the demon side start with 7 Threat Points instead of the usual 4, but I think that the game is more inherently balanced than our results would indicate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: What strategies do successful demon players pursue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you spend the first &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; turns building up Threat? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which powers do you consistently activate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Event Cards - worth it or not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which humans are your first targets? (Redeemer, right?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help my opponents! (And me, should I ever get to play the demon side...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1757" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T20:55:19.570" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T06:11:44.450" Title="Demonic Strategies for Claustrophobia" Tags="|claustrophobia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="351" CreationDate="2011-01-11T21:14:44.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calling and getting all five tricks is &lt;strong&gt;A March&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calling trump and failing to get 3 tricks is called a &lt;strong&gt;Euchre&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the earliest reference I could find to Euchre, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=bz8VAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;dq=The%20Game%20of%20Euchre&amp;amp;pg=PA259#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=The%20Game%20of%20Euchre&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoyle's 1845 edition&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=bz8VAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;dq=The%20Game%20of%20Euchre&amp;amp;pg=PA258&amp;amp;ci=193%2C977%2C612%2C115&amp;amp;source=bookclip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wvESem.png&quot; alt=&quot;Euchre&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=bz8VAAAAYAAJ&amp;amp;dq=The%20Game%20of%20Euchre&amp;amp;pg=PA259&amp;amp;ci=193%2C1191%2C593%2C70&amp;amp;source=bookclip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y6IaXm.png&quot; alt=&quot;A March&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This excerpt is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=azmZ0tWYeicC&amp;amp;dq=The%20law%20and%20practice%20of%20the%20games%20of%20euchre&amp;amp;pg=PA17#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Law and Practice of the Game of Euchre&lt;/a&gt; by Charles Henry Wharton Meehan.  Written in 1862, per &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euchre#Origins&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, it is believed to be the oldest book dedicated to Euchre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=azmZ0tWYeicC&amp;amp;dq=The%20law%20and%20practice%20of%20the%20games%20of%20euchre&amp;amp;pg=PA40#v=onepage&amp;amp;q&amp;amp;f=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ahigJm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=n_tD6dmWpxUC&amp;amp;lpg=PT167&amp;amp;dq=euchre&amp;amp;pg=PT165#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=euchre&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoyle's 2001 edition&lt;/a&gt; uses the same terms, as does &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=La7J1XQk1bAC&amp;amp;lpg=PA236&amp;amp;dq=euchre&amp;amp;pg=PA237#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=euchre&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scarne's Encyclopedia of Card Games&lt;/a&gt;.  Card Games for Dummies does as well, however they use the terms &quot;Marches or Sweeps&quot; for getting all five tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I've heard the other two terms, it does not seem that they have entered common enough usage to be documented into any formal listing of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T02:21:07.357" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:21:07.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2011-01-11T21:53:37.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to focus on which cards will net me the most points.  Perhaps that's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=colony&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Colony&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=duke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dukes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=duchy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duchies&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=gardens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gardens&lt;/a&gt;, etc...  If any of those exist I focus on building them to max potential, so in the example of having Gardens on the table, I would focus on cards with +Buy or &quot;Gain a card&quot; and stay away from deck thinning cards (Trash cards).  For Duke/Duchy I would look for cards that let me get extra cards costing 5 like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=feast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Feast&lt;/a&gt; (especially effective for this strategy if &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=throneroom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Throne Room&lt;/a&gt; is also available), or a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt; coupled with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=workshop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Workshop&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=ironworks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ironworks&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the idea of focusing on specific combos is right, but make sure that that combo works well with the Victory cards on the board.  A deck thinning strategy is great for cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=library&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Library&lt;/a&gt;, but would work against you with Gardens on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dual type cards can also be a huge boon and a great thing to focus on in your combo hunting.  Combos like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=scout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scout&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=nobles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nobles&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=harem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harem&lt;/a&gt; and Ironworks + &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=greathall&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Hall&lt;/a&gt; are good choices to focus on too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I look at is are there any cards that allow giving out curses, because being able to block them with a defensive card or being able to dole out curses in bundles can sometimes be a great strategy (Throne Room + &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=witch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Witch&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, focus on the kingdom cards that augment your VPs (both positive and negative) and focus your strategy around those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T21:53:37.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2011-01-11T22:11:08.857" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/381/what-are-good-standard-tactics-for-dominion/1309#1309&quot;&gt;Know the difference between an early game card and a mid game card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quickly evaluate what cards will be good for your first few buys (besides money). This is the only time where it doesn't matter if an action is terminal or not because you won't really have many actions. Deck thinning cards like chapel, cards that let you draw a lot like smithy, and cheap attack cards like militia can all be good investments. Plan your first few buys out of the good starter cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that give you +actions. This will help you judge how many combos to go for. If there's tons, stock up on those and draws to get some major combinations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that give you +buys. You definitely want a few of these for your later game, its a matter of what options you have. Don't go for woodcutter unless you don't really have any better choices. Having a good amount of buys can also help you end the game early if you want, but that requires some advanced planning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that give you +cards. How much money do I need to buy? Are cards that give +actions but NOT +cards going to be effective?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that give you +$. If your only source of $ is from treasures, don't skimp on gold because your action chains will only get you more cards and maybe some attacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack and reaction cards. Helps you judge how much interaction there will be and how you will prepare. If there's going to be a cursing war (witch), might as well not get left out/defenseless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How strong is big-money? This helps you know how hard you should go on actions. If all you need to win happens to be some silver, gold, a witch, and some counsel rooms, make sure you take that into account. Actually evaluating how strong this combo will be is more complex, but recognizing that it exists is a good start. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unique cards that need certain combos to work well. Don't get adventurer unless you have a higher density of gold in your deck. Only get gardens if you plan to have the cards to expand your deck to 40+ cards. Don't get a throne room unless you have something worth throne-rooming. Get a library or two if people are going hard on militia because it lets you redraw all the cards you lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per your request, here's an analysis of the starting cards they recommend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cellar, moat, village, militia, workshop, woodcutter, smithy, remodel, mine, market. They're listed &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Base&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one strong attack card, so a moat or two would probably be a good investment if people end up buying as they should. Hit the village and market pretty hard (maybe cellar as well if you have a lot of weak cards in your deck) because they're the only ones that give +actions and you're main hope for getting big combos if you choose to go that route. Remodel and mine will let you get rid of bad cards, like estates, so get on that soon if possible. woodcutter and market both give +buys. Woodcutter is one of my least favorite cards as a silver is almost always a better bet. Since you can get +buys from market I personally wouldn't buy any Woodcutters at all. Village will be good for combos because there's a few terminal actions that are very useful (militia, smithy, workshop, etc.) Since remodel is available you will able to hone your deck to a slight degree later in the game, so don't be super afraid of buying cards that will only be mostly useful short-term, like a mine at the beginning of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for the beginning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-5 split: Get either a moat or a cellar for the 2$ buy and a mine. At this point, anything that gives you extra actions isn't really very beneficial, AKA village. Anything you can do to get rid of your bad cards (AKA mine) in the beginning is almost always a good idea. A moat will protect you from the early militias that will likely be played, but a cellar would help you go through your deck more quickly and get to the better cards in it. I'd probably go with the moat first and then cellar in the next few turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3-4 split: Get a workshop and a smithy/remodel/militia. These are all great early 4$ cards, the smithy will let you draw lots of cards, the remodel will let you trash bad cards, and the militia will put you ahead and slow others players down, all of which are amazing strategies. I'd probably go with the remodel or militia, but you'll be able to get more 4 cost cards with workshop soon after anyway, so it won't make a huge difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some rough estimates of how many I'd go for long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cellar: 2-3, great cards that keeps your chain going. Good if you've only got 2$,  otherwise go with something more powerful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moat: 1-3, Only get if militia is being used a lot, or &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; you need to draw cards for cheap, a cellar won't work, and you don't have many action cards (otherwise you'd probably have something better to play in your hand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;village: 2-3, good for mid game combos, depends on how many +cards cards you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;militia: 1-3, beat on your opponents while getting money, what's not to like?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;workshop: 1-2, good at the beginning, only buy 2 if you can remodel into market later or have a strategy that works with lots of cards costing 4 or less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;woodcutter: 0, go with a silver instead. This isn't a kingdom set where trading an action for a buy is going to be worthwhile very often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;smithy: 1, good at beginning of the game, maybe remodel later into gold. Only get 2 if you have a couple of villages or a big money strategy (not many actions in your deck).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remodel/mine: 1-2 of each. Try to get them early so you can upgrade your deck. Think about the odds of you getting them and the cards you want to upgrade at the same time. A mine is a total disadvantage if you have very little copper or silver, so plan accordingly. Remodel I'd probably go with 2 just because you can remodel gold into provinces in the later game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;market: 2-5. This is a pretty generic cards that is almost always helpful and will be strong with this kingdom set, but be sure to weigh it properly against the other options and don't just choose it because its a good all-around card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gold: buy lots early, there's not a set number. As I said earlier you will want to determine how much money you'll want to buy early in the game. Buy some silver early if you like, or use mine/workshop to get it instead. In the beginning you'll want to get gold whenever you have 6, especially since you can remodel them into provinces. Once you get to late game you might want to go with a duchy instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potential combos: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remodel + gold = make money into provinces during end-game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remodel + workshop = get lots of cards costing 3-4 and crank them up to better stuff later. Workshop is a good early card that you can remodel later if you need to as its not very strong in the end-game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remodel + mine = get 2 mines early and upgrade as many copper and silver as possible. Then remodel the mine into a gold once you don't need it anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;workshop + village = Use workshops to get lots of villages and smithy's while you use you actual money for better things. A village in your deck never hurts as long as you aren't using to much energy to buy it, and the village + smithy combination can get you some mega drawing action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;village + militia = launch a relentless attack with 3+ militias to keep other players' cards down. Add village to keep your chains going. If you buy up moats you can be even more evil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cellar + moat + village = get some silver and gold&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;woodcutter + mine = &lt;s&gt;get some woodcutters early with $ or a workshop. Use the extra buys to stock up on copper, and have 2 or 3 mines to crank up the copper into silver and gold. This is sort of a modification of big money, so getting a smithy can help. Just watch your number of terminal actions.&lt;/s&gt; I crossed this one out because its actually pretty weak. Buying copper is rarely useful, and relying on getting lucky to use a mine to upgrade it to a silver is pretty bad as it really dilutes your deck. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are only guidelines. Dominion is a dynamic enough game that no strategy should ever be followed to the letter. Use your judgement and knowledge of combos to make a good choice, but flexibility is always important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very interesting read is about &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/368342/why-dominion-did-not-deliver-for-me&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the silver test&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which is basically where you weigh all your $3, $4, and $5 choices against a silver. &lt;em&gt;If you read this, be sure to skim through read the replies with +20 score to make sure you get both sides of the story!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evaluating a kingdom set properly takes practice, and experience is the best teacher. However, this should give you a pretty good start to learning some of the most important issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to see some other specific sets analyzed, post them in a different question and I'd be glad to help. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T16:16:07.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2147" CreationDate="2011-01-11T22:19:11.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the real issue you're having is with attack cards in general. If you want more player interaction, a bit more competition, the necessity for on the fly adaptations, and everybody's fine with keeping attacks in, then go for it. The choose between a more or less competitive game is one we have to make every time we sit down to play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, ask the other people what they think. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-11T22:19:11.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2170" CreationDate="2011-01-12T08:19:22.263" Score="13" ViewCount="4323" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you've been lynched by the villagers or ripped apart by the werewolves, I believe the rules say those players are completely out of the game and should not contribute in any way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the handful of Werewolves games I've played, some of those dead characters are put out that they aren't playing any more &amp;amp; decide they'll go and do something else, hence splitting up the party. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do people have any house-rules or innovative ideas for what dead players can be doing within (or around) the game as it continues? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="718" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T14:26:13.580" Title="What can dead Werewolves players be doing?" Tags="|house-rules|werewolf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2011-01-12T11:29:49.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always played with just 8-9 people, so the dead just wait for the next turn, which is going to happen in a matter of minutes (and it's fun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the &quot;official&quot; game rules actually have a role for dead people too, but I fear that it would make the game needlessly complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;update&lt;/em&gt;: I kind of found out. Those rules had people during the day first chose to nominees to be burnt, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; everyone could vote which one to burn between those two: this last vote could be cast by ghosts too, which anyway could not talk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an extremely lame and boring rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it adds unnecessary complexity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it either forces the ghosts to keep the eyes closed during the night (lame: it's fun to see what's going on!) or it makes them way too powerful (just terrible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="332" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T12:41:57.810" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T12:41:57.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1977" CreationDate="2011-01-12T17:34:07.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't know any, you can easily figure it out and try if that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Official rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;pla  pan  tok&#xA;9    -   &#xA;8    4/5  47&#xA;7    4/5  55&#xA;6    4    55&#xA;5    3w   47&#xA;4    2e+  55&#xA;3    2w-  47&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(players, panels, tokens)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it odd it allows 7 and 8 players to play with either 4 or 5 panels without varying the amount of token to use. I read it &quot;you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; use it, but we have to provide rules to allow you to play even if you don't have it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assumed that, there are two ways to amend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;pla  pan  tok&#xA;9    6    55&#xA;8    5    47&#xA;7    5    55&#xA;6    4    55&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the more &lt;strong&gt;conservative approach&lt;/strong&gt; is to just assume they meant the western extra panel to be used and keep the tokens as they were. Problem is you would need a sixth panel to add a ninth player, and it doesn't officially exist (nor unofficially, AFAIK). If you take this route, you'll automatically also get a 10-player version, using 6 panels and 47 tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;pla  pan  tok&#xA;9    5    47&#xA;8    5    55&#xA;7    4    47&#xA;6    4    55&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the &lt;strong&gt;optimistic approach&lt;/strong&gt; assumes they messed up the token amounts trying to allow 7 and 8-player games to work both with 4 and 5 panels, so you fix it as in this table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They would both need testing; before actually testing them in the field, actually counting territories and population in each panel could help (I didn't, yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T17:34:07.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1813" CreationDate="2011-01-12T18:16:08.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, you have to either nerf or totally remove the &lt;strong&gt;Monopoly&lt;/strong&gt; card. A suggestion could be to allow it to steal only 1 resource from each player, but I feel it could be too powerful even in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there would have to be a huge number of hexes, the luck would increase too much, hence I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/549/alternative-for-dice-in-settlers-of-catan/1128#1128&quot;&gt;a diceless variant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also allow at least two &quot;longest road&quot; and &quot;most knights&quot; bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you would really have to strictly limit the trade phase somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T18:16:08.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:15:29.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You mean I've been lying on the floor with my limbs twisted and an expression of ghastly terror frozen on my face all these times, and I didn't have to?  Man!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if perhaps people bitten by werewolves should become junior werewolves - or at least ghosts, who can silently haunt people they feel helped stitch them up, and perhaps suggest future victims to the werewolves by pointing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT - I didn't really mean that death should involve promotion to full werewolf status.  See my comment below for what was actually going through my mind when I typed that those bitten by werewolves should become a werewolf.  Whoops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-01-13T17:22:36.293" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T17:22:36.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:16:31.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple game variant is that dead people can become ghosts.  This means that they still close their eyes, but do not vote.  During the day, they can still talk and participate in discussions.  Obviously, one's status is NOT revealed when one is killed.  It's up to the moderator to say when the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This changes the game, since it's not possible to eliminate 'leaders', but it can keep everyone engaged.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T19:16:31.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2147" CreationDate="2011-01-12T19:58:32.410" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like that goons opens up the possibility of winning without buying green cards as well as the possibility to have monstrous turns when you've stacked a few goons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But fun is subjective, if it's not fun for a subset of the players in your group, it is simply not fun for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While attacks usually get meaner in Dominion games with more players, Goons isn't really one of the attacks that gets nastier in larger Dominion games.  Since being hit by 10 goons is no worse than being hit by 1, the number of players doesn't matter so much.  Contrast this with a card like witch, where the damage done scales in proportion to how many are played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Messing with all 5 opponents isn't necessarily better than messing with a single opponent.  You still have to beat all of your opponents.  Imagine you could either get 5 points, or cost every opponent in the game 3 points.  In a 6 player game, you could theoretically cost each opponent 3 points, for a total of 3 * 5 = 15 points, but you'd still only have a relative advantage on each opponent of 3 points.  If instead you took the five point gain, you would have gained 5 points on each of your opponents.  Even though the &quot;net damage&quot; increases with the number of players, the &quot;relative advantage per player&quot; is really the important metric, which is often number of players invariant in Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-01-12T19:58:32.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2178" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:06:54.370" Score="4" ViewCount="1431" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Werewolves there are many Villager roles: normally we play essentially the same roles every time and the players know exactly which are the roles that are going to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 8 players you could choose to play with, for example, 2 wolves, 3 plain villagers and 3 &quot;special villagers&quot; taking at random the 3 special villagers from a pool of say, 6 possible ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of this variant is that no one knows if a specific role even &lt;em&gt;exists&lt;/em&gt; in that round until the end of the round, which may or may not be fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downsides include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the moderator will have to spend more time calling for all the possible roles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using cards from a poker set becomes more of an issue with more roles, so you'll probably want to have cards that actually say which role you are&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the wolves can fake to be villagers much more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think about this variant?  Have you ever tried anything like this?  What elements were fun at first but weren't in the long run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T19:18:02.450" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T22:37:16.103" Title="What has been your experience with random villager roles in Werewolf?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2177" CreationDate="2011-01-13T16:11:41.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that if you introduce too much chaos it becomes way, &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; more difficult for the villagers to figure out what's going on. Even if they were picking 3 roles from among 4 you've added enough chaos that you'll likely need at least one more villager (depending on the roles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played it that way a few times and it's been kind of fun, but it throws deduction and intuition out the window, leaving it pretty much entirely a game of chance. Which, of course, the villagers almost always lose since only the wolves have any real idea of what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T16:11:41.610" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:22:12.750" Score="8" ViewCount="5646" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing holding me back from playing Settlers with BOTH the Traders and Barbarians set and the Seafarers set at once is the thought of sorting the pieces out at the end and getting everything back into the correct boxes. Is there a marking method out there that does not mar the beauty of the pieces but makes packing-up easier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jay" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T03:50:00.440" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T13:10:29.117" Title="How to easily differentiate Catan expansion pieces?" Tags="|catan|storage|components|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2179" CreationDate="2011-01-13T17:54:50.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the Traders and Barbarians expansion, but assuming it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; come with a list of components, you could do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a digital camera and a color printer, you could take one of each component from an expansion, group them together and take a picture of the components, print off a copy of the picture, and keep that picture with your expansion box.  Repeat for each expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when it is time to pick up, just refer to the picture list of components of where everything needs to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have a digital camera, I'm sure you could find images doing a Google Image Search for all the components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T17:54:50.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2179" CreationDate="2011-01-13T18:26:33.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just write down how much of what you need in each box and use that as a check list.  If you remember what the pieces are called, a list is easier to make and doesn't require printing.  Separating how many times of each tile goes in the Seafarers box and the base game box is a hassle.  I've already put a list of components in my 5-6 player boxes for the extensions, but not in my Seafarers main expansion box.  Next time I play Seafarers I'm going to add one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T18:26:33.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-01-13T19:46:37.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest to kept the rule as they are, but speeding up the play at the beginning.  For the first turns, just play the dice, collect your resources and pass the dice to your neighbor.   After a few games, distributing resources should take 10 seconds.  Even if the game take five turn to start, it's not an issue when those five turn are played in about a minute each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just set the example by doing it yourself and explain to the other players that there is no point discussing about trade when everybody want resources nobody have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastActivityDate="2011-01-13T19:46:37.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2184" CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:30:56.930" Score="13" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought the new Agricola &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/85704/agricola-gamers-deck&quot;&gt;&quot;Gamer's Deck&quot;&lt;/a&gt; from my local store - hooray!  119 sweet new Occupation / Minor Improvement cards that will keep me happy while I wrestle inwardly with the question of whether I can justify buying the silly-looking &quot;Goodies&quot; expansion for $60, just to scratch my completist's itch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through the new cards though I found two which seemed to contradict each other.  Can anyone tell me what happens if you get both of these in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pilgrim&lt;/strong&gt; (Occupation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You receive 2 Food before you pay the costs of playing this Occupation.  At the start of a round, if you have no building resources, you may take 1 building resource from the supply; if you have no Food, you may take 1 Food from the supply.  &lt;em&gt;(At any time, you many move resources from your personal supply to the general supply.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pine Forest&lt;/strong&gt; (Minor Improvement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of each round, you may place 1 Wood on this card if you have zero Wood in your supply.  When this card has 5 Wood, move the Wood from this card to your supply.  (&lt;em&gt;You may not give Wood to the general supply for nothing.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have both the Pilgrim and the Pine Forest in play, can you &quot;throw away&quot; your spare Wood to keep the Pine Forest growing... or not?  I am particularly confused on this point because both of the relevant lines on the cards are italicized, which gives them the air of being clarifications of the basic rules, rather than special abilities bestowed by the cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Pilgrim ruling override the Pine Forest's, or vice versa?  Are you allowed to throw away resources at will in the ordinary course of the rules?  (Not that a sane person would want to, but still...) You can sort of throw away animals you don't have room for... why not resources you don't want?  Anyone think they know the definitive answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T16:52:29.873" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T17:00:47.760" Title="The Pilgrim in the Pine Forest" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2183" CreationDate="2011-01-14T04:47:58.093" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definitive answer was given on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/584170/pilgrim-vs-pine-forest&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; by Hanno Girke (editor of the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pilgrim has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pine Forest just states a standard rule, it doesn't create a new rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, as soon as you play Pilgrim, you override this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some background at &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/forums/index.php?topic=2355.0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;play-agricola.com&lt;/a&gt;, where the Gamer's Deck was designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by Hanno, the standard rule is on the Pine Forest.  &lt;strong&gt;You may not give goods from your supply to the general supply&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T17:00:47.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1153" CreationDate="2011-01-14T05:29:02.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are likely to be several sophisticated models postulated here for categorizing gamers' attributes, but I've found a comically simple model that's proven accurate across a variety of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My model has two axes. The first is how quickly someone can learn a new game and rule set to become a competent player, where competent means they understand basic strategies, have discovered the obvious themes/patterns of successful game play, and don't make newbie blunders. The second is to what extent they are inwardly focused, where they spend their energy thinking about their moves and how to optimize them, versus outwardly focused, where they observe the play of others and actively tailor their strategy to exploit others weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's examine each of the four extremes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick-learning and inwardly focused&lt;/strong&gt; I start here because this is my self-identified type. This person will often dominate whenever a new game is introduced to a group. They get the basics before anyone else and rip off a string of wins while everyone else is climbing up the learning curve. But then, as people become familiar with the game they'll slowly start winning less and less. Ultimately perhaps not winning very often at all in games that reward careful observation of other players (e.g. poker, chess, Dominion).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slow-learning and inwardly focused&lt;/strong&gt; this player is doomed to mediocrity. While they are still trying to grasp the rules and basic strategy the rest of their group has mastered the basics and is well into fine tuning and optimization. Early on, this player is at the mercy of the quick learners; later on they're at the mercy of everyone else, who have now not only learned how to play but have an edge because they adapt their play as the game unfolds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slow-learning and outwardly focused&lt;/strong&gt; this player takes longer to come up to speed on a new game because they don't learn by trying to scheme based on the rules; this player spends their early games attempting to determine winning strategies by observing the play of others. They take a practical approach to learning, which results in early losses as they fumble for the winning formula but serves them well in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fast-learning and outwardly focused&lt;/strong&gt; good luck beating this person. They learn new games quickly and can scheme based on theory and observation. They start with a lead and adapt their play continuously to always stay one step ahead of the competition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importantly, I don't consider these traits immutable descriptions of a player. For example, I consider myself a fast learning and outwardly focused Axis and Allies player, but quick-learning and inwardly focused at Dominion. I'm always competitive at A&amp;amp;A, but after our third time playing have only sporadically won at Dominion. A&amp;amp;A has a static setup, fully public knowledge, and rewards good math skills and spatial reasoning. Dominion has reams of private knowledge and rewards understanding combinations and tailoring play to the random setup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ICodeForCoffee's description of intelligence types and game genres is useful in understanding how this is possible; a person's innate learning type may enable them to quickly learn the rules to a counting and pattern recognition game like cribbage but prevent them from ever really being able to perform the mental probability calculations required by Axis and Allies. Or someone might dominate at chess, where all knowledge is public, but be unable to deal with the implications of private knowledge and encoded communication in a game like Hearts, Spades, or Bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T05:29:02.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2196" CreationDate="2011-01-14T06:48:27.413" Score="25" ViewCount="9117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone give a good summary of each expansion for Race for the Galaxy, and explain how it changes the game? Is it worth it to buy the expansions straight out? Or is it fine to stick with the base game as long as you want? What's the compelling reason to expand? Just curious!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T05:52:36.343" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T23:35:17.700" Title="How do the expansions for Race for the Galaxy alter the game - are they worth buying?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2165" CreationDate="2011-01-14T14:26:13.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A house rule I've played is that the first dead person becomes a ghost. They can keep their eyes open and watch the rest of the game, and cannot speak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every morning they may write a clue in the form of a single letter (not using the player's initials) to show the people who are still alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it's only the first person to be killed is that they haven't had much of a chance to participate otherwise in the game, not even in the first round of lynching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be quite good if you have new players in the group, as it gives the people still alive a focus for their discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="625" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T14:26:13.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2179" CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:11:08.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the tiles it's quite easy to write the expansion (or print it out on a sticker for a nicer look) on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T15:11:08.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="797" CreationDate="2011-01-14T15:18:47.127" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing that seperates the newbies from the intermediate players in RISK is:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;KNOW WHEN TO&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;STOP&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;ATTACKING.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the inexperienced player will look at the board, look at the forces he has, the forces the enemy has, realize that he has enough men to carry the day, and attack.  He is, however, looking at the wrong pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, a player should look at the forces he has, the forces the enemy has, and then &lt;strong&gt;consider how many of his men would survive his planned attack&lt;/strong&gt;, comparing &lt;em&gt;those&lt;/em&gt; pieces to &lt;strong&gt;how many men the enemy will have available to retaliate with on his next turn&lt;/strong&gt;.  Its not enough to take territory (except for throwaway attacks for the sake of a Risk Card).  One must take the territory &lt;strong&gt;with sufficient survivors to hold it next turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2011-01-14T16:55:43.157" LastActivityDate="2011-01-14T16:55:43.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1441" CreationDate="2011-01-14T23:02:45.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assuming you play no-limit cash games:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like to cbet every single flop but only if i was the aggressor preflop (that means i raised before the flop - no one re-raised me and there are one or more callers). If the aggressor was someone else, you should be more careful: Obviously you want to raise the flop for value if hit something (and you think you are ahead). In that case, your bet size should depend on the structure of flop (draw heavy means bigger bets). If you miss, you have to consider to fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A few words regarding bet size:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bets less than 1/3 the pot are meaningless in almost every situation (exception are thin value bets and so on in higher stakes games - you probably have quite a few things to lean, before you need to worry about such things).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bets more than 1/1 the pot are usually to much - you just don't get called by weaker hands often enough to make it profitable in the long run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="737" LastEditorUserId="737" LastEditDate="2011-01-16T20:53:15.130" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T20:53:15.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2194" CreationDate="2011-01-15T00:22:50.653" Score="4" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I already understand that when Spirit Ghouls are the already-in-decline race, they cannot make any conquests on the turn that the active race declines, but do they score victory points for the territories they already hold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:42:20.703" Title="Small World: Do Spirit Ghouls Score When Active Race Declines?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2193" CreationDate="2011-01-15T00:43:59.047" Score="4" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Orcs get a bonus for conquering unoccupied territories.  If the Orcs abandon a territory and then re-conquer it later in a turn, do they get the bonus? Technically they are conquering an unoccupied territory, but should it read &quot;unoccupied at start of the player's turn?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:29:45.287" Title="Small World: Do Orcs Get Race Bonus When Conquering Abandoned Territories?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2192" CreationDate="2011-01-15T01:53:50.773" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have it backwards.  Orcs do not gain a bonus for conquering unoccupied territories.  From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule Book&lt;/a&gt;, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Orcs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each &lt;strong&gt;not empty&lt;/strong&gt; Region your Orcs conquered this turn is worth 1 bonus Victory coin, at the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vacating a territory would mean that it was unoccupied when conquered, and therefore the orcs would not get a bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T01:53:50.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2191" CreationDate="2011-01-15T02:43:18.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Spirit description in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule Book&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may thus end up with two different races In&#xA;  Decline on the map at the same time and &lt;strong&gt;score for them both&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T02:43:18.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2186" CreationDate="2011-01-15T04:09:55.700" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most compelling reason to get the RftG expansions is to get more cards overall. This makes the game more replayable and allows for different interactions between cards from the original set and the expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for each expansion, you can expect the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Gathering Storm:&lt;/strong&gt; Ups the total player count to 5, adds more cards, new start worlds, goals (ways to score VPs by accomplishing certain things), and a &quot;robot&quot; that allows you to play solitaire. It introduces drafting rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rebel vs. Imperium:&lt;/strong&gt; Ups the total player count to 6, adds more cards, new start worlds, introduces takeover/warfare mechanic that allows players to conquer other players military worlds (sounds more interesting than it really is).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Brink of War:&lt;/strong&gt; Adds more cards, more goals, new start worlds, more counters for the solitaire game, introduces Galactic Prestige mechanism and a once-per-game power to search cards or add bonuses to your selected phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play RftG with all of these expansions by using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.keldon.net/rftg/&quot;&gt;Keldon's RftG AI&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="740" LastEditorUserId="3565" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T19:05:27.817" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T19:05:27.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2186" CreationDate="2011-01-15T05:31:09.500" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expansions all have different themes to them, and they change up the game play in significant ways.  The first expansion, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/34499/race-for-the-galaxy-the-gathering-storm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Gathering Storm&lt;/a&gt;, is easily the most interesting in terms of changing up the game play.  It adds in the goals, which channels play in different ways in each game.  That, plus the new start worlds, provide enough extra variety that I'd suggest it's worth getting after playing roughly 25 games or so of the base game.  That many games allows you to see the different strategies that are available and become familiar with the approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/40210/race-for-the-galaxy-rebel-vs-imperium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rebel vs. Imperium&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent new start world mechanic, where each player gets dealt two start worlds with their opening hand and then gets to make a choice.  This, on its own, justifies the expansion I think.  The takeover mechanic isn't especially interesting, it just doesn't come up terribly often, so really here, you're talking about just beefing up the deck and providing more variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/66121/race-for-the-galaxy-the-brink-of-war&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Brink of War&lt;/a&gt;, honestly, I don't care for.  The prestige mechanics seem to tilt things pretty far back towards military being the most successful strategy.  Perhaps I'm just not very adept at it, but after about 15 games or so, I'm close to taking the cards out of my deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/92932/race-galaxy-alien-artifacts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alien Artifacts&lt;/a&gt; is actually the start of a new expansion cycle. It's designed to be played with just the base game, and it changes things in a very different way than the first three. It introduces a map that the players build, with the players moving around on the map to find new stuff. Explore becomes a first-class action with the expansion, which isn't really much true in the other ones. I only have four or so games with it, and I think some of the rules for building the map are kind of inelegant (although understandable why they are the way they are), but it's a fun experience. I'd still probably buy it third of the four expansions, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T05:14:08.473" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T05:14:08.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2199" CreationDate="2011-01-15T05:47:46.543" Score="15" ViewCount="15529" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/words-with-friends-free/id321916506?mt=8&quot;&gt;Words with Friends&lt;/a&gt;, a Scrabble clone for the iPhone, slang words - such as the following - are permitted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;za&lt;/strong&gt;, slang for &quot;pizza,&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;lez&lt;/strong&gt;, slang for &quot;lesbian,&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And so on...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are slang words allowed in official Scrabble games / tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T13:30:53.293" Title="Are slang words allowed in Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2011-01-15T06:34:02.327" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can check for yourself at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/scrabble/en_US/search.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Scrabble Dictionary&lt;/a&gt;.  According to that site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;za&lt;/strong&gt; is a legal word&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lez is not (Keep reading)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Words With Friends uses the Enhanced North American Benchmark Lexicon with a few additions per &lt;a href=&quot;http://newtoyinc.com:81/gameswithfriends/support/Words_With_Friends_Rulebook.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt;.  ENABLE is a public domain word list for use with word programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to @thesun's research it is obvious that the website is not the final word for Scrabble tournaments.  Apparently the Scrabble folks &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/review/R33RHO9KH25FAG/ref=cm_cd_pg_next?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;cdPage=3&amp;amp;asin=0877794200&amp;amp;store=books#wasThisHelpful&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;censor&lt;/a&gt; their website, and books of around 200 offensive words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the complete list you have to join the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.scrabble-assoc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;National Scrabble Association&lt;/a&gt; and pay for it.  For most tournaments that will be the list used.  If the tournament is &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/3542570.stm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;televised&lt;/a&gt; then perhaps those 200 offensive words will not be allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-17T04:37:48.087" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T04:37:48.087" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2050" CreationDate="2011-01-15T07:39:34.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most fun party games I've played (and the one that has generated the most laughter) is Eat Poop You Cat (or its commercial version, Telestrations). All you need is a stack of index cards (or paper) and a pen or marker for each player. Each person begins by writing a word or sentence on the top card or on top of the paper. They then pass their paper or card stack to the person on their left or right. This person looks at the words written and on the next card or below the words and then draws a picture illustrating the words. Then, they put the card with the words at the bottom of the stack or fold over the top of the paper, and pass it on to the next person who writes a word or sentence describing the picture. This repeats until everyone playing has gone through the process with each stack of card or paper. When people get their original stack or paper back, the chain of pictures and sentences is then revealed, generally to much laughter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T07:39:34.473" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-15T07:39:34.473" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3839" CreationDate="2011-01-15T11:31:36.803" Score="4" ViewCount="1747" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago I played a game of Puerto Rico with all of the buildings from Expansion II: The Nobles.  One of the players pretty much had a run-away game using Villa + Jeweler, and we were pretty much at a loss as to how to stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new expansion, each time the Colony Ship is refilled, one of the colonists is replaced by a Noble.  Each Noble is worth 1 VP at the end of the game, but more importantly they can trigger other buildings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mayoring became the hot action of the day, and the Corn player pretty much forsaking all building until they hit 6 doubloons + quarry + building privilege to buy the Jeweler (they were pretty much Captaining the rest of the time, if you're curious).  The Jeweler gives you 1 doubloon in the Craft phase for each Noble you have, which isn't exactly overpowered given it's cost, until you bring Villa into the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within two turns of Crafting, the Jeweler player had enough money to buy a Villa, which lets you take an additional Noble from the supply when anyone mayors.  Thus, if he would Mayor, he could actually get &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; Nobles, one from the ship and one from the supply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty much where the game got silly, because every Mayor gave him +1/2 endgame VP which translated into +1/2 more doubloons during the crafting phase, which, in turn let him buy the Royal Gardens (+1 VP for each noble at end of game) and other big-ticket items quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which part of the combo is broken, though, the Villa or the Jeweler?  The Jeweler is more expensive than the Factory, but rewards you for something you already want to do (collect Nobles).  The Villa simply gives you an extra Noble each turn (1 VP a turn isn't unreasonable), but put them together and the free money starts to roll in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of all other players buying Villas as soon as someone buys a Jeweler, or applying a house rule, how can you counter this?  Or have others seen that Jeweler + Villa is degenerate enough to simply not allow both buildings in the game at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T16:43:47.237" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T11:38:40.487" Title="Countering Villa + Jeweler in Puerto Rico: The Nobles" Tags="|puerto-rico|puerto-rico-expansion-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:06:47.020" Score="5" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;In playing Catan for 2 (the traders and barbarians expansion) on your turn, you roll the dice twice. Can you build or trade in between your dice rolls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Taylor" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T19:39:27.783" Title="Settlers of Catan for 2. Rolling the dice twice." Tags="|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:09:49.080" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Slang words are 100% allowed in Scrabble - well, as long as they've been around long enough to have found their way into the dictionary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea that slang is in some way verboten in Scrabble is mysteriously widespread among casual players I've run across.  I defy them to find that prohibition in the actual rules!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Za&quot; is a fairly recent addition to the canon of official Scrabble words - I think it was popularized by the TV show Friends, or something?  But it's now kosher, and a very welcome way of being able to quickly play a Z, especially in parts of the word that don't believe me when I tell them that ZO is a type of Himalayan ox.  (Similarly, where would the game of Scrabble be without QI?  Nearly unplayable, that's where.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Lez&quot; may or may not be allowed the wordlist Pat had checked, but I'm pretty damn sure that some Scrabble wordlists have it in.  (Mind you, I'm English, and the English official Scrabble wordlist is about twice the size of the American, so that could explain it.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a televised world Scrabble championship of some kind which was notorious for one of the players playing &quot;LEZ&quot; in the final - and the judges quickly ruling it legal in spluttering embarrassment, due to the word's obvious potential to deprave and corrupt youngsters in the viewing audience.  I'm pretty sure the implication was that LEZ was indeed in the wordlist: the guy was one of the top players in the world, and these people know their valid words.  Afterwards he, quite rightly, said &quot;I don't even think about what the words mean, I just play them if they're the best move&quot;.  Happily, I do believe he went on to win the game and the championship!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Here's a sample news article about the &quot;lez&quot; incident: &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/3542570.stm&quot;&gt;http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/3542570.stm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-01-16T04:42:49.647" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T04:42:49.647" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2203" CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:20:59.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say &lt;strong&gt;no, you cannot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules explicitly state what you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; do after each roll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Immediately after each of the two dice rolls, the two real players obtain resources and/or move the robber (a “7” result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is no mention of building or trading, I would say you could only build and trade after finishing all rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would make the order is Roll &gt; Get resources &gt; Roll a second time (repeating as necessary to get a different value than the first) &gt; Get resources from second roll &gt; Continue play as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way -- you are player two, and the other human player is player four.  You are effectively rolling for player one's roll, then you roll for yourself and can buy and trade as normal.  Then the other human player rolls for player three, and then they roll for themselves and can buy and trade as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-15T19:39:27.783" LastActivityDate="2011-01-15T19:39:27.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2209" CreationDate="2011-01-15T19:28:29.230" Score="3" ViewCount="5959" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2151/ticket-to-ride-longest-route-clarification&quot;&gt;recent question&lt;/a&gt; we securely established that the &quot;Longest Route&quot; bonus in Ticket to Ride is earned by the largest number of train cars used to make the route, not the largest number of stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This confused at least one smart user here, who had assumed the opposite to be true.  After all, any fool can build a direct train from New York to Los Angeles, but surely a train that makes a few stops along the way to accumulate passengers would be a much more valuable commodity!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally feel as if there could be a strong argument for switching the way that Longest Route works.  After all, you &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; get lots of points for building the efficient 5- and 6-length routes that are the bread and butter of winning the Longest Route bonus.  Wouldn't there be a more interesting tension in the game if building lots of inefficient, low-scoring routes was what lined you up for the bonus? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take this opportunity to suggest another variant, that I brainstormed up a little while ago: &lt;strong&gt;Contracts&lt;/strong&gt;.  Under this variant, any player could spend a move to sign a contract on a route: this is represented by taking one of their trains and placing it over the route, at right-angles to normal train placement.  This train can be later used to build the route in question, but cannot otherwise be picked up from the board.  At the end of the game, any uncompleted contracts score negative points equal to the positive points normally gained for completion of a route of that length.  &quot;Contract&quot; trains do not count as being in the player's supply, for the purposes of determining if the game is about to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What implications would adopting these variants have on Ticket to Ride strategy and gameplay?  Are they terrible ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T05:27:32.763" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T08:20:07.030" Title="How would these Ticket To Ride variants change the game?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|balance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2208" CreationDate="2011-01-16T01:46:53.007" Score="4" ViewCount="2895" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the base game of RftG, if you chose Consume&gt;Trade as the action, do you have to trade on a card that has a $ ability? If it is a +3 and do you get +3 cards in addition to the normal trade value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T19:51:07.827" Title="Consume&gt;Trade in RftG Base game" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2011-01-16T02:06:19.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You first sell any one of your available goods for the number of cards indicated by the kind of good (i.e. 2 cards for a Novelty good, up to 5 for an Alien good).  Some cards in your tableau may have Trade powers (marked with a $) that may affect what you get from this trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you must use as many of the Consume powers (marked with a IV) as you have on your cards as possible, on as many of the remaining goods that you have as you can.  You can use these powers once only each, but you can use them in any order you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the way you phrase your question, it sounds as though you think that the initial Trade is performed based on one of your Consume powers, somehow.  It isn't; the initial Trade is a completely independent bonus and takes place before you refer to the special powers of the cards in your tableau.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-01-17T18:10:12.837" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T18:10:12.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2011-01-16T05:13:43.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say they're terrible ideas. I REALLY like the first one as it would add another layer of depth to the game. The second I personally would leave out, just because racing to get the train cards you need is part of the fun. Being able to cut other players off too easily could change things. The penalty would need to be pretty hefty, because you could easily rob somebody of 20 points as they try to complete a long route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's usually a few routes that end up critical to certain people in the game, and I could see a mechanic of &quot;find out what destinations you opponents are trying to get to and do everything you can to stop them,&quot; which could make it a competition to see who has the highest negative score since nobody could complete their destinations. When you have to claim routes normally, you are loosing the privilege and resources to do something that would benefit you, and you need to have the right cards at the right time. Unless you happen to have a lot of cards or have been gathering cards of the same color by chance, you can't block. With contracts you'd be able to stop anyone at any time during your turn at the expense of just a few points if you didn't follow through later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original Ticket to Ride there's a powerful connection of short routes down the center of the country that link almost everything together. You could easily contract as many of these as possible in the beginning, work on your own destinations, then 'complete' your contracts at the end of the game since they're all short colorless routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found hardcore players have shot down almost many variations I've seen posted, such as drawing 3 cards per turn, having the option to build AND draw in a turn, having 7 cards face up the whole game, etc. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2126/good-ways-to-speed-up-a-game-of-ticket-to&quot;&gt;See a list of those here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; The game is very carefully balanced in the sense of East vs. West, long vs. short routes, and attack vs. defense. This doesn't mean variants are bad, and if you have any revisions or others I'd love to see them. It just means that there is a delicate balance you have to be careful not to destroy if you want the game to retain its original feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found many actual variants to the gameplay, but if you are able to print them and the additional cards &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/522334/comprehensive-guide-to-ttr-fan-created-maps-vote&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;there's a TON of fan created maps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that give the game a new feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and there's always &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/407611/the-catapult-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the catapult expansion...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T19:51:16.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2212" CreationDate="2011-01-16T10:05:57.307" Score="15" ViewCount="26568" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would be interested to hear if anyone had recommendations for 2-player games that are particularly suitable for playing while travelling on trains.  (I ask this as someone who mostly enjoys games like Carcassonne, Power Grid, Agricola, Pandemic, etc. around the table at home.)  To be specific, the things that I think are important properties for these games are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Needing minimal table space.  Most trains have a small table you could use, but not much more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being quiet to play, so that other passengers won't be disturbed.  For example, I imagine that games that involve repeatedly rolling dice wouldn't be appreciated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Packing down small, so that they don't take up much luggage space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not requiring batteries or a power socket.  (I appreciate that an iPhone or a Nintendo DS for each player might be a good solution more generally, but it's not what I'm after in this case.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not being so delicate to arrange that motion from the train will unduly disrupt the play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be best to recommend one game (or class of games) per answer, if that's appropriate, and explain why you think it's particularly suitable.  (Incidentally, I've read the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/298/should-we-allow-game-recommendations-answer-yes-but-read-on&quot;&gt;guidance on good questions about game recommendations&lt;/a&gt; and hope this question meets the criteria.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Thanks for so many excellent suggestions - we certainly won't be short of games for our next long train journey :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Unfortunately, I can't really playtest this many great games in any reasonable time period, so I'm going to accept the top-voted answer (Cribbage) and try out the others as soon as I can.  Thanks again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:45:47.567" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T06:17:41.853" Title="Good travel games for two players, especially for playing on trains?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="15" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2011-08-12T11:10:12.140" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-16T11:37:40.190" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest Cribbage. Not much space is required, it is quick to set up and put away, involves no more noise than any game between two players, and is a very good game. It is also best enjoyed with a glass of something in the other hand, increasing its suitability for a train journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know how to play (and it isn't terribly complicated, although rather different from other card games), have a look here... &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cribbage&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cribbage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T11:37:40.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2221" CreationDate="2011-01-16T16:09:02.253" Score="10" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what point in a Dominion game should a player stop buying middle value cards (e.g., Silver or other cards more suited to mid-game play than Province/Colony-buying sprees)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T01:40:51.603" Title="Transitioning to Dominion late-game" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2213" CreationDate="2011-01-16T16:27:54.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important thing is knowing &lt;strong&gt;how many reshuffles are left for you in the game.&lt;/strong&gt; Different kingdom cards will lend themselves to different deck sizes, which in turn can tell you how much victory cards are going to weigh down your deck. If another player is looking to end the game soon and is ahead, you probably want to scramble to get as many points as you can, even if its from duchies and estates instead of provinces. This is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; helpful when deciding when to buy the lower victory cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its usually fairly easy to get an idea of how many turns are going to go by before the game ends by looking at how many cards are left in the various relevant piles and how quickly players are buying them. You should always have a general sense of how many cards are in your deck. Within 5 cards of the total size is good, though I've seen people who can tell you how many cards are in their deck AND discard pile at any point in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Divide by the average number of cards you're drawing per turn to get a rough estimate of how many reshuffles are left. If you have a treasure heavy deck and not many sources of +cards, you may draw an average of 6 or less cards per turn. If you've got a super action chaining deck you may have an average of 9 or more cards per turn. Obviously its very difficult to get a precise estimate of the number of reshuffles left due to its many influencing factors, but you can usually do well enough. Unless you have more than 6 reshuffles left, just buy the dang province. If you have 3-4 reshuffles left, consider getting that duchy. I you have 1-2, get an estate or whatever the hell you can because there's no point in doing anything that doesn't get you direct points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is a very inexact science, and these are just very general rules. There's a ton of factors that affect your decisions on every turn. There's 2 important things in Dominion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knowing how to build an efficient deck in the beginning and mid-game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knowing when to stop making your deck efficient and just get those dang points! :D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-04-06T01:40:51.603" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T01:40:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-16T16:29:43.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blokus.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blokus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been on a ton of trains, but blokus should meet your requirements pretty well. The pieces stay well enough on the board you should be fine even with a bumpier ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T16:29:43.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-16T16:33:27.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1198/set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;set&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noise is minimal and the cards don't slip around very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T16:33:27.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-01-16T16:46:01.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forbidden island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are fairly simple, and like other cooperatives its a great first time game because you're not worried about losing alone, you're worried about your entire group losing. I've gotten several groups of friends &lt;em&gt;addicted&lt;/em&gt; to this game after one play, and soon they all knew the rules better than I did and were able to correct mistakes I didn't even know I was making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-01-16T22:28:14.970" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T22:28:14.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2219" CreationDate="2011-01-16T21:18:51.733" Score="12" ViewCount="1987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using all 7 tiles nets a Scrabble player a 50-point bonus and is sometimes referred to as a &quot;Bingo&quot;. I'm curious: how did that term come into use and why does it have such meaning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-09T13:56:09.030" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T13:56:09.030" Title="What's the etymology for the term &quot;Bingo&quot; in Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2218" CreationDate="2011-01-16T21:45:21.513" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a good detail on Scrabble Bingo's on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bingo_%28Scrabble%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bingo is a game where each player is issued a card with numbers. A caller calls out numbers drawn at random and the player will cross of numbers on their card. The first person to have all of their numbers crossed off will shout out Bingo! So there is a parallel between this game where all of the numbers have been marked on the card and using all of your tiles in Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more about the game Bingo on its &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bingo_%28U.S.%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki page&lt;/a&gt;. Note the wiki page mentions that game has its earliest recording in 1776. It is my assumption it was long popular before Scrabble and that is why the term was borrowed for Scrabble because of the parallel mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?search=bingo&amp;amp;searchmode=none&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Online Etymology Dictionary&lt;/a&gt; and it says the origin of the phrase is unclear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know more about the word itself you should try asking as a separate question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;https://english.stackexchange.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:09.400" LastActivityDate="2011-01-16T21:45:21.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2207" CreationDate="2011-01-17T00:35:55.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consume &gt; Trade gives you access to a special phase that only players who select Consume &gt; Trade can perform.  During that phase, you must sell any one good from any planet in your tableau for 2/3/4/5 (blue/brown/green/yellow) cards.  If you have any $ powers, those will change your payout for your single allowed trade, but you do not need any of them and the traded good can come from any world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T00:35:55.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2213" CreationDate="2011-01-17T01:13:56.193" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the first things I try and figure out when evaluating a set of kingdom cards is to try and figure out which way I think the game will end.  Is it going to be a three-stack game or a province/colony game?  Are there cards that push it in one direction or another?  Am I going to try and push it one way or another, and what do I know about the tendencies of my fellow gamers (and their first turn purchases)?  If I believe that it's going to be a three-stack game, or I will be pushing it that way, there is no mid-game for me.  I'm usually going to try and buy as many VP cards as I can while keeping my deck's head above water.  Since I've evaluated the tableau and decided that there won't be an extended run on Provinces/Colonies, the bar for success in my deck has changed.  Trying to keep a consistent 5 purchase power (for Duchies) is a much different thing than trying to build to a consistent 8 or more, and in such a deck, mid-power cards can always be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I've decided that it's going to be a game where one of the big VP stacks is going to run out, then presumably I've decided how I'm going to drive me economy.  At every step of the way, what matters more to me than anything else is answering two rolling questions:  what is the average value of the cards in my deck and how does my purchase change that number.  Adding silver to a starting deck changes things from .7 $/c to .82 $/c, pretty good.  A Laboratory, added to a starting deck, does a little worse, .76 $/c.  But, later on in the game, if you've got a deck that is averaging 1.5 $/c over, say, 25 cards, adding a silver doesn't do much, 1.52 $/c.  But a Lab does better, 1.62 $/c.  Etc.  Obviously, I'm not computing this stuff directly at the table, but you should have a rough idea of where you are at and should only buy cards that can move the needle.  Stuff like Silver (or similar cards that don't have +Cards attached to them) is limited, and should be avoided once the average value of your deck is getting close to their inherent value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T01:13:56.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2153" CreationDate="2011-01-17T09:56:28.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are monsters that can't pass through the doors, Dragon for example. And the Bullrog kicks out the doors and make them a passageway instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="759" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T09:56:28.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:46:40.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/258/fluxx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluxx and all the variants definitely meet all the requirements. However, if you want a strategy game its definitely not a good choice, so I expect this to get voted down just for that. Its a different game with two players, and fairly quiet if you ignore the zombie fluxx card that requires you to groan whenever a zombie creeper shows up. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T13:46:40.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2226" CreationDate="2011-01-17T13:58:25.163" Score="5" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played several games of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohnanza&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt; as a family, and one thing I quickly realized was how important it is to keep an eye on what cards have been taken out of the game as money for harvesting. Usually the cocoa and garden beans, as they are worth the same number of coins as beans, disappear from the game fairly early and never show up again. This makes the second time through the deck fairly different, and the third time is drastically different since so many cards are gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This got me thinking: How would the game change if we used counters to represent obtained money instead of facedown cards? It would obviously keep the game more consistent across rounds, leading to less variation and a more continuous game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would doing so 'ruin' the game? Are there any other consequences I should be aware of? What other possible variations are there on how to keep score?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T13:42:44.680" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T13:42:44.680" Title="How will using counters to represent money instead of facedown cards change the game?" Tags="|house-rules|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2224" CreationDate="2011-01-17T17:59:18.823" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would sort of ruin the game for me, I think.  One of the things I like about Bohnanza is that &lt;em&gt;superficially&lt;/em&gt; it's a pretty easy game: certainly you can bring it out with non-gamery types or children and it will be a hit, due to the colourful cards and the social aspect of the trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are strategic undercurrents to Bohnanza that set it apart from, I don't know, Uno and the like.  And one of the main ones is the fact that, if you're paying attention, you can realize that, as the game progresses, the value of beans is changing as cards leave play to become gold coins.  If you are paying more attention than other players, you can be planting the most advantageous beans remaining while they carelessly plant beans most of whose brethren are sitting in people's coin piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove the facedown cards rule, you still have a fun game, but I think it's a game that's almost totally ruled by charisma.  If you're the sort of person that people like trading with, you'll probably win.  (The ladies in our group are less cutthroat than the guys, and quite often do very well at Bohnanza, simply because we are obviously checking values of beans and saying &quot;no, no, that's not a very good trade for me, I'd need another card&quot; - so they stop trading with us!)  So it makes me much happier that there's an element to the game which allows good sense of which beans are in and out of the deck at any given point to make a profit.  I like that having some smarts can allow you to maximise your chances against the luck of the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, Bohnanza is above all a supremely fun game, and when I sit down to it I quite often don't bother to obsessively card count, or go into &quot;analysis paralysis&quot; over my moves.  You could change the money-representing mechanism and I'm sure I'd still enjoy Bohnanza about the same: I'd be sad that the potential for some cunning and counting had disappeared, on some level, too though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final thing that you want to watch for is that the game will last a lot longer if cards aren't being removed from the deck in each pass.  I really like the fact that the first pass is a pretty leisurely affair, while by the third pass people are saying &quot;holy moley, is the game that close to finishing?&quot;  It adds a lot of tension to proceedings.  In fact, the ability to cash in or to hold up from cashing is a way that players have to control the pace of the game and the constituency of the deck: that's another way that changing the rules would adversely effect players' chances of being &quot;clever&quot; in the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I think Bohnanza is a spectacularly well-designed game with a lot of depths that you might not notice on your first few games - as you'd expect from the great Uwe Rosenberg.  I personally wouldn't tinker with it, I think it would lose a lot.  But if you want a longer, more carefree, more socially-oriented game then it could be worth a try anyway!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-17T17:59:18.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1992" CreationDate="2011-01-17T23:26:07.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answers your actual question, rather than dance around the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion box sets always have a number of cards that ends in 0 (i.e. are a multiple of 10).  For any extra cards they need, they put in blanks.  There are 500 cards each for Intrigue; Base; and Dark Ages, 300 each for Seaside; Prosperity; and Hinterlands, and 150 each for Alchemy; Cornucopia; and Guilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that they didn't want to print too many of the blank cards, so Base included 7 randomizers for cards you would never actually need randomizers for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that Intrigue, despite also having those 7 decks, doesn't include those in the randomizers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intrigue has 6 more normal cards than Base does.  This is due to Intrigue having 4 Kingdom card Victory decks (Duke, Great Hall, Harem, and Nobles), while Base only has 1 (Gardens)... and Victory cards always have 12 cards per deck, rather than the usual 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T16:15:40.460" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T16:15:40.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2228" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:28:15.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Proper Usage&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should be used for variations to a game that come from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suplemental material from an official website (designer, publisher)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magazine articles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optional rules from the rulebook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Related Tags&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/house-rules&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'house-rules'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;house-rules&lt;/a&gt;: This tag should be used instead of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/variants&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'variants'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;variants&lt;/a&gt; when the change to a game originated outside of the sources noted above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:23:37.267" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:23:37.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2229" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:28:15.907" Score="0" Body="Officially sanctioned optional rules only. This is not for house rules, see below!" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:11:08.137" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:11:08.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2230" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:33:49.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is anything boardgamers like better than playing games, it might be thinking about ways to change or tweak them to suit our particular taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discussion about ways to vary a boardgame are definitely on topic here.  If the variation originates with an official source (the publisher or designer) then the question should be tagged with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/variants&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'variants'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;variants&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with most other subjects, you will get the best answers if you make the question specific. For house rules, this typically means giving a specific goal that you would want to achieve with a house rules. Thus, &quot;How can I prevent [boring yet effective strategy x in game y] from winning by adopting a house rule?&quot; is better than &quot;How do I make [game y] more fun?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:22:46.160" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:22:46.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2231" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-01-18T02:33:49.193" Score="0" Body="Rule changes, additions and options proposed by players for players. This is not for officially sanctioned variations - use the [variants] tag instead." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:47:41.633" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:47:41.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2218" CreationDate="2011-01-18T05:52:36.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2218/whats-the-etymology-for-the-term-bingo-in-scrabble/2219#2219&quot;&gt;xiaohouzi (little monkey?)&lt;/a&gt; said, &quot;bingo&quot; comes from the game of Bingo. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word &quot;bingo&quot; comes from the word &quot;bing&quot; for a pile of something. In this case, presumably, it would be a pile of coins that you win for getting the right pattern on your card. The word &quot;bing&quot; is an old-fashioned word but still in use in northern England. Here's an example from Robert Burns's poem, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.robertburns.org/works/133.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Brigs of Ayr&lt;/a&gt;. Robert Burns is a well-known Scottish poet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;'Twas when the stacks get on their winter hap, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And thack and rape secure the toil-won crap; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Potatoe-bings are snugged up frae skaith &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;O' coming Winter's biting, frosty breath; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bees, rejoicing o'er their summer toils, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unnumber'd buds an' flow'rs' delicious spoils, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Seal'd up with frugal care in massive waxen piles, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are doom'd by Man, that tyrant o'er the weak, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T05:52:36.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-18T06:07:26.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41/cant-stop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Can't Stop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I built my own travel version out of Lego, but you might not be that keen. It is a dice game, so that might be a down side for you. I used some tiny little dice in a clear plastic container, so that was quieter and avoided losing the dice. You could also use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5460/the-deck-of-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deck of Dice&lt;/a&gt; to reduce dice hassles. It might even have some interesting effects on the game since you can't roll four of a kind with two cards from a single deck of dice. If you're feeling crafty, you could mount four spinners from thrift-store games onto a piece of cardboard and write the numbers 1-6 around each spinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T06:07:26.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2129" CreationDate="2011-01-18T06:21:20.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done lots of playtesting and never been asked to sign anything. My friend Jay has recently gotten some games published and he's &lt;a href=&quot;http://inspirationtopublication.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;blogging about the experience&lt;/a&gt;. You might find his posts on playtesting interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T06:21:20.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2011-01-18T06:24:54.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.checkerschest.com/checkers-games/german-checkers.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Checkers variants&lt;/a&gt;, but I believe most of them use a forced capture rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T06:24:54.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-01-18T13:44:31.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics are very simple, and everyone I've played with makes all great decisions after the first round. Remembering which cards are still in the deck takes some focus, and the social aspect of trading keeps things interesting. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T13:44:31.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2011-01-18T13:45:03.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this may seem disappointing, my advice is: don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Descent is a great game in its single-dungeon mode, and while it might look appealing to bring your characters from a dungeon to another, it actually &quot;just doesn't work&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the fun things about this game is the weapon progression: as you go on, you might find cooler weapons to use. This works well in a single dungeon, but is crap in the campaign: after just a few encounters it is likely that every player will have the best-in-slot weapon for that campaign level, and anything else they can find will just be sold away. This takes away a lot of fun from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover due to setting and stuff you end up wasting so much time playing just a couple of (short) encounters in the campaign, that you could have played a whole (much longer) dungeon in the standard game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to keep a few things from one dungeon to another, you could keep the same characters, follow the standard rules about xp and progression, and change a character with another one if he dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T13:45:03.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2250" CreationDate="2011-01-18T13:55:53.840" Score="11" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With 3 players, remove the Cocoa Beans&#xA;  from the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With 4 or 5 players,&#xA;  remove the Coffee Beans from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With 6 or 7 players , remove the Cocoa&#xA;  Beans and the Garden Beans from the&#xA;  game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the logic behind this? Is there any reason cocoa beans only work with a medium number of players? I can see the potential logic of wanting to keep them occurring at a certain frequency, but how does that 'improve' the game. It they are common, players will scramble to get them due to rarity, and with more players they will be powerful in trade. These are key elements to the game, and I don't see why the rules specifically try to prevent these conditions that are just a natural part of the game. Same thing with coffee beans, why do the most common beans only work with a medium number of players? What effect will changing these rules have on the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T13:46:37.267" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:46:37.267" Title="What is the logic behind the bean cards to be removed from the deck in Bohnanza?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2239" CreationDate="2011-01-18T14:57:51.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, with 3 players, it is guaranteed that at least 1 player will draw more than 1 cocoa bean, which is a large advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With increasing numbers of players, it seems likely that they would just get thrown away.  Not sure if either of these thoughts were what the game designers were actually thinking, but it's a theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T14:57:51.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2239" CreationDate="2011-01-18T15:48:50.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ignore them&lt;/strong&gt; if you like, they aren't mandatory.  Those are all listed after the main rules section under a heading entitled, &quot;Variations based on the number of players&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a probable reason for those rules on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/529425/rio-grande-games-edition-variations-based-on-numbe&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.  To sum it up, the original German version of Bohnanza was for 3-5 players.  There was an expansion that included support for 6-7 players which added the 4 (Cocoa), 22(Wax) and 24(Coffee) beans.  This expansion was included for the english language release of the game by Rio Grande Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can make an assumption that between the release of the expansion in 1997 and the Rio Grande version in English (2000) that it was felt that the additional cards led to a longer, possibly less satisfying game.  The variations based on number of players appears to be an attempt to improve, and definitely shorten the game (particularly with &amp;lt; 6 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T15:48:50.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:06:10.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about any of the myriad &quot;travel-size&quot; games, such as chess, checkers, othello, scrabble, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T17:06:10.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:18:50.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34127/ticket-to-ride-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: The Card Game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My family took this on our trip to Europe expressly to play on trains, and we successfully conducted several three-player games that way. You get a solid variant of the award-winning TtR in a very small space. We packed it into a box meant to hold a deck of Magic cards and thought the space it took was well worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T17:18:50.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:22:56.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22484/ingenious-travel-edition&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ingenious: Travel Edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ingenious is a very solid abstract game in its own right - a Knizia design. This travel edition looks like exactly what you're looking for. The board holds the pieces and score markers firmly in place, and it's made for two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T17:22:56.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-18T17:59:22.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boggle&lt;/a&gt; is one of my favorite games and can be enjoyably played alone or with two, three, or four players. It's got a small form factor and requires little space in your suitcase. The only potential downside is shaking the tiles can be a bit noisy if you're not careful, but it is possible to shake them with only minimal noise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a variety of boardgames that offer travel-sized versions, from Chess to Go to Checkers. These are usually considerably smaller and have magnetic pieces to ensure there isn't slippage when going around a bend or coming to a stop and are more suitable for car rides, but I imagine they'd work for a train ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most portable gaming system is a deck of playing cards. Unfortunately, there aren't nearly as many card games for two players as there are for three or more, but there are still some gems. As Brian Hooper noted, Cribbage is a great two player card game and can be played without a board, keeping score on a piece of paper. Here are some other two player card games that you might give a try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/boston/honeymoon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Honeymoon bridge&lt;/a&gt; - if you enjoy bridge this is an entertaining variation for two. Not as much strategy as with four, but still fun and a great way to pass the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/ginrummy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gin rummy&lt;/a&gt; - played this a lot as a kid and, from what I remember, it was a lot of fun (at least for a kid!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/patience/spit.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speed&lt;/a&gt; - this might not be the most suitable game for a train ride since it involves each player &quot;discarding&quot; as quick as they can, which can make it a bit boisterous, but it is worth exploring and is especially fun after a cup (or two) of coffee.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/eights/crazy8s.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crazy 8s&lt;/a&gt; - fun and easy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most two player card games I've encountered are usually quite simple with straightforward rules and little to no strategy. They serve more as an outlet to pass the time. If you are looking for more of a thinking man's two player game, consider a classic like Chess or Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T03:58:00.223" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T03:58:00.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2252" CreationDate="2011-01-18T18:10:56.733" Score="13" ViewCount="4945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play Axis &amp;amp; Allies all the time when I was younger.  I recently purchased the Axis &amp;amp; Allies Revised Edition, and was floored by all the added complexity/new units/new rules/map changes.  It was definitely a whole pile of fun, but I notice now that there are many other versions of Axis &amp;amp; Allies available as well.  Are the &quot;new&quot; rules the same across all the &quot;new&quot; versions?  Does each version have its own rules?  Are the differences in the rules relatively minor, or do I need to keep track of six different sets of infantry rules for six different games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T19:00:18.280" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T04:26:16.880" Title="What are the differences between the various versions of Axis &amp; Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|variants|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2160" CreationDate="2011-01-18T20:11:26.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience from playing both sides is that the Demons win more often than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the demon player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to always have two troglodyte packs on the board, ideally from two sides, two packs of 3 troglodytes is very hard on the humans.  Keep them replenished, only power them up (ravenous, etc.) for sure hits or to position in front or behind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack the human with the lowest armor, if equal then attack human with most wounds, if equal then attack redeemer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Event cards are very much worth it, grab them whenever you can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The big demon usually isn't needed to win.  Troglodyte swarms are great on their own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="711" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T20:11:26.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2239" CreationDate="2011-01-18T20:13:17.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems clear that the very valuable, very scarce beans will work best when there are neither too many nor too few players at the table.  With too many players, these beans are too hard to make work: if you take a risk and plant one, at a competitive table you may never be allowed to plant another!  Conversely, with too few players, these beans are too easy to make work: you stand a good chance of just randomly drawing into them on your turn and making a killing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect the Coffee Beans exist to make up the numbers in games where the Cocoa and/or Garden beans have been removed.  They are a pretty generic bean, plentiful and of low value, unlikely to rock any boats.  I don't think the Coffee beans would be unbalanced in a 3/6/7 player game in and of themselves; but they need to be removed just because, if you'll allow me to mix my metaphors, too many beans spoil the broth.  The more types of bean you have in the mix at any one time, the more random the draws become, and the less easy it is to discern a hopefully optimal strategy.  (Equally, of course, too few beans makes it too easy to see the &quot;best&quot; plays.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the number of beans in play down to 9 or 10 at any one time keeps it easy, but not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; easy, to wrap your head around the numbers of what's going on.  If you just want a fun, random, noisy bean-collecting game where you don't really care about the finer points of game balance or cutthroat competitive strategy, I'd suggest that it's probably not worth your while removing and adding different types of beans between every game.  Depends entirely on your motivations for playing Bohnanza!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-01-18T20:25:24.900" LastActivityDate="2011-01-18T20:25:24.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2011-01-19T00:35:52.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; - The question was originally asked about the Revised edition, which is what this answer is based off of.  For 2nd Edition rules I agree with the above answers, in that it is not worth it. I'll leave this answer up in case anyone wants an opinion on the Revised edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;...but it is dependent on the situation. Speaking in terms of long range aircraft and heavy bombers(I haven't used the others before), I can think of several advantages to use them(non-tournament rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They provide an immediate benefit&lt;/strong&gt; - Every purchase you make won't be of any benefit until your next turn.  If you have a particularly important battle, a successful research can provide immediate benefit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example, If you in the purchase phase while playing Germany and you plan on assaulting Moscow during the next turn, you may choose to purchase bombers since they are the only unit that would be able participate in the battle(assuming you have no additional Industrial Complexes).  For the next turn, you could then research Heavy Bombers to effectively double the bombers hitting power. The only purchase you could make to help you in that fight is weapons development.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your opponent won't expect it&lt;/strong&gt; - Your opponents pieces are to a large extent based off what they think are your capabilities.  Since most people think weapons development is useless, they likely won't anticipate it.  Your opponent may have a zone that they think is well fortified against attack but researching Heavy Bombers could move the odds to your side.  They may also have a lone bomber or transport in an out of reach(by you) zone. Researching Long Range Aircraft could allow you to make a cheap kill and probably throw off their plans.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Range Aircraft&lt;/strong&gt; - Researching this means you need less planes to do the same amount. They could be used to attack Russia in one turn and then a fleet in the Atlantic in the next.  This is especially beneficial for America since this allows them to bring their planes into action much earlier after being built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heavy Bombers&lt;/strong&gt; - In addition to the obvious benefit of bombers increased firepower, another benefit is that needing less planes for the same firepower means less chances of being shot down by anti-aircraft and thus saves IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding the accepted answer&lt;/strong&gt;(I don't have the rep to comment), the math you used is based off rules in the Classic edition.  In the Revised edition, the odds of getting your technology with a single dice is 1 in 6 and not 1 in 36.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I think it is best not to expect a concrete answer on this.  The math on weapons development is never going to be very good because it is impossible to accurately gauge its benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that when I actually research a weapon, I always use 4-8 dice. You may get lucky with one or two but I research it only when I think it is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anecdote of when I lost a major battle due to research:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;I was playing Axis(2-person game) and Japan had its original territories plus a few in USSR.  It was the 5 or 6 turn and the Japan mainland only contained 6 bombers and a few fighters. America had a fairly large fleet off the Western U.S. coast whose purpose was to invade the Japanese mainland. I had a few carriers(with a couple planes) south of Japan but no other real naval force.  My plan was that since the American fleet would require two moves to launch the invasion, I would concentrate on attacking China until the U.S. made its move.  When that happens, I would throw 30 IPCs at Heavy Bombers(a calculated risk), then launch an air attack against the fleet(using the fighters as fodder and the carriers to land them on).  I don't remember the exact configuration of forces but I remember that I expected to destroy the fleet with at least 3 or 4 bombers left over.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;What my opponent did was during the turn where the American fleet made the move, she successfully researched long range aircraft.  She then sent fighters from China and fighters from her carriers in the Pacific and attacked the Japanese mainland.  She easily destroyed the fighters and all 6 bombers while taking light losses. This was my entire air force(and my then my navy was mostly gone) so I didn't have much chance of repelling the next turn's invasion.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;After she triumphantly ended her turn and started playing USSR, I pointed to my German transport off of the western coast of Algeria, the infantry in Algeria and the undefended Eastern U.S. As it turned out, the only ground units in North America were infantry in the Western U.S.(and Britain couldn't come to the rescue) thus making the U.S. unable to take back its capitol.  At this point my very peeved girlfriend conceded.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="757" LastEditorUserId="757" LastEditDate="2011-01-20T20:51:39.007" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T20:51:39.007" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2248" CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:11:25.633" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;##This is a community wiki&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a running list of the changes to the the traditional 1942 version of &lt;em&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies&lt;/em&gt; listing each progressive revision below it with all the changes from the previous version--just like software release notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please add to the list if you see something missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies (Nova Games Edition) — 1981&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initial release&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies — 1984&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;a.k.a. &amp;quot;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Classic&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Map and setup is changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sequence of play has been revised&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Costs and incomes are 1/100th that of the previous games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bombardment is added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neutral countries can no longer be occupied (previously, it could be done by paying a cost)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fighters can no longer be built directly onto carriers; they must be built in land areas and then travel to carriers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Air units no longer add 1 to their movement if they start on islands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Loading land units on ships is now part of the land movement phase, rather than naval movement phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Submarines now participate in normal naval combat, instead of firing a single salvo during their own phase prior to naval combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;National advantages have been removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The option to produce an atomic bomb through technology research has been removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies 2nd Edition — 1986&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1986 reprint&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commander-In-Chief rules deleted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transport rules changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amphibious assault rules changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple Force rules changed — such forces cannot attack together any more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Newly built and captured industrial complexes have limited production&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sea zone surrounding Panama is two sea zones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appendix IV added with five optional rules variations: (1) Total Victory condition that requires ownership of original capitals plus two enemy capitals; (2) Ability to place naval units in occupied sea zones; (3) Germany starts with jet fighters and Japan with super submarines; (4) Russia is not allowed to attack on the first turn; (5) No new industrial complexes may be bought or placed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Revised — 2004&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;a.k.a. Axis &amp;amp; Allies 20th Anniversary Edition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Map and setup has changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Artillery and Destroyer units have been added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost of fighters has been reduced from 12 IPCs to 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transports may now carry 1 armor + 1 infantry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Armor attacks and defends on a 3+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Victory cities have been added as a replacement for economic victory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: 50th Anniversary Edition — 2008&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Italy and China have been added as factions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 1941 setup has been added in addition to the standard 1942 setup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Cruiser unit has been added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Spring 1942 — 2009&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;a.k.a. Axis &amp;amp; Allies 25th Anniversary Edition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The changes from the 50th Anniversary Edition are not incorporated except as follows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Cruiser unit has been added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Spring 1942 (Second Edition) — 2012&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Anti-aircraft Artillery unit has been added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2022-01-06T04:26:16.880" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T04:26:16.880" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-01-19T01:11:25.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1032" CreationDate="2011-01-19T01:58:05.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Change Tech Research&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24/is-it-ever-a-good-idea-to-research-weapons-development&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; and the commonly held opinion described in its answers suggests that the A&amp;amp;A tech tree could use some work. Here's a set of house rules that fixes the two main problems with the 2nd Edition rules (I haven't played the newer versions as much so perhaps others can elaborate):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tech is too hard to get. That is, you have to spend too much money, on average, to get any tech at all, and a tremendous amount to get a specific advance. The opportunity cost of a tech in terms of foregone tanks and infantry is too high for even a player with a moderate risk profile and an absolute no-go for anyone who wants to win consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The advances, if they are ultimately achieved can be complete game breakers. Heavy bombers is a great example as every country can use them to devastating effect, but 2 IPC infantry are also too powerful, as are most of the other advances under slightly more restricted circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The changes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;4 IPCs&lt;/strong&gt; you get a technology of your choice on a roll of &lt;strong&gt;6&lt;/strong&gt;. This increases by a factor of six the probability of getting the technology of choice and decreases the expected cost by 20 percent. Besides making research cheaper it also enables strategic research: a player can go after something they actually consider useful given the game situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jet power&lt;/strong&gt;: fighters attack on a 4+ (improved from 3+) instead of the base rule of increasing defense from 4+ to 5+. The game needs more offensive firepower not better defense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rockets&lt;/strong&gt;: allow one rocket attack per AA gun, but give defending AA guns a chance to block each attack on a roll of 1. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evasive submarines&lt;/strong&gt; (replacing super subs): Submarines are immune to aircraft attack, or alternatively, are only subject to a single round of attacking at a 6+ for fighters or 5+ for bombers. This change can make a wolf pack strategy feasible for Germany.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long-range aircraft&lt;/strong&gt;: +1 movement instead of +2. Still provides a strategic advantage but doesn't extend the round-trip range by a full territory like the original rule did.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Improved AA guns&lt;/strong&gt; (replacing Industrial Technology): Re-roll any failed AA attempt. Great equalizer against all the airplane techs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategic bombers&lt;/strong&gt;: when strategic bombing roll two dice, pick the higher roll. Still cool, but much less powerful than adding the sum of three dice, which was crazy awesome.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T22:55:52.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-19T11:04:12.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy games that need no special equipment, those that can be played with just paper and pens. Examples are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bulls_and_cows&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bulls and cows&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TwixT&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TwixT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T11:04:12.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2011-01-19T16:05:05.760" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A corn-heavy strategy can be a good one, but corn-only is vastly inferior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, you spent 12 coin on the office, large market and small market, and you will be trading for three coin each time. You could have bought a coffee roaster and tobacco storage for less (11 coin), and be selling those for four and three respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even worse, if your opponents are even of average strength, they will never choose captain, and rarely choose craftsman. You will rarely benefit from their choices. Plus, you will probably have to waste several turns calling settler, to ensure that you get corn whenever it is the only one available. Your opponents will be able to play more opportunistically, mixing up their choices and collecting all of the bonus coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are forced to make decisions solely on the basis of how much it helps you, while your opponents will be able to make decisions based on how much it helps them AND how much it hurts their opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastEditorUserId="762" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T16:19:17.103" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T16:19:17.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-19T17:36:10.760" Score="4" ViewCount="2975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if anyone on here has played or knows the name of a card game similar to hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object of the game is to get rid of all your cards. If a player doesn't have a card that is played, he can play any card just like hearts. In this game there's no points system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When 2 players remain in the game, the player who has more cards than the player who has one remaining must play a lower card to extend the game. The cards are then laid out and the player with no cards must pick a card from pack of cards which have been played and pick a card lower than the other players cards to win. The other player obviously has to clear his cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also request to take another players cards.&#xA;I believe it is an Asian card game but wondered if it had an English name and if many people play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="764" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-07-15T03:20:27.743" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T03:20:27.743" Title="Name of card game similar to crazy-8s or Uno" Tags="|identify-this-game|uno|crazy8s|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="284" CreationDate="2011-01-19T20:31:36.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across the following variants whilst doing a bit more digging at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/442282/diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anniversary edition&lt;/a&gt; with metal pieces, an '&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/117882/diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Asmodee&lt;/a&gt;' edition, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/79736/diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;German variant&lt;/a&gt; from the 70's and some amazing custom-built boards (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/184079/diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/519804/diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt; - shown below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F8FMR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Custom Diplomacy Board at GenCon Ind&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T20:31:36.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2011-01-19T22:44:33.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Germany is smart, their first move will be to blockade the Atlantic and stop the IPC and flow of supplies heading to Britain.  Once they do that, the British have to funnel reinforcements into the Atlantic to clear it while the Germans can keep funneling u-boats out of the Mediterranean into the Atlantic forcing the British or the Americans to commit large scale naval forces to first clearing the Atlantic and simultaniously moving naval units to block Gibralter.  All the while the Germans can canabalize Western Europe and the Balkans for units and send them against Russia, and if they are smart destroy most of the Russian Army in the process without losing too many units themselves. That will just leave them Moscow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to stop this strategy is to first force the German fleet into a battle of annihilation in the beginning of the game quickly.  Then use well protected convoys of troops and aircraft to fly reinforcements to UK.  The US Navy can build fleets of destroyers each turn and keep moving out into the Atlantic.  The Germans will lose their U-Boats in a few turns.  The Royal Navy can sit off of Denmark and in the Barents Sea to force the Germans to defend Germany, but then it b/c a seige war.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is to use the Allied superiority in money to force the Germans into large engagements that will cause them casualties that they cannot afford to sustain. If you keep doing that, they Werhmacht will be a broken shell in about 6 turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Stuart Armstrong" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-19T22:50:28.883" LastActivityDate="2011-01-19T22:50:28.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2261" CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:32:47.093" Score="12" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just heard about a 15th-anniversary edition of the Settlers of Catan game, and I must be blind because I can't find anything on Mayfair's site about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What exactly are the contents?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this differ from the 10th-anniversary version?  Is it not 3D?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this in English or German?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T03:34:54.597" Title="Settlers of Catan 15th Anniversary Edition?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2260" CreationDate="2011-01-20T03:34:54.597" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I held this in my hands last week.  (Closed box)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All wood, large painted set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not 3D, but the tiles looked quite thick (nearly domino sized)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;English version&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retailed for $150 I believe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has the 5-6 player expansion in it as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/game.php?id=346&amp;amp;stock=MFG3102&amp;amp;name=Settlers+of+Catan+-+15th+Anniversary+Edition%99&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; at Mayfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T03:34:54.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2256" CreationDate="2011-01-20T06:10:12.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it might be a form of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/whist/minwhist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minnesota Whist&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it is not, I'd suggst starting with a cassification resource like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/whist/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat&lt;/a&gt; and seeing if anything else jogs your memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T06:10:12.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2011-01-20T14:08:29.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the comments made by other users, it should be noted that the ENABLE+ list used by Words with Friends and the North American Scrabble tournament lexicon, the Official Tournament and Club Word List, 2nd Edition (OTCWL2) are practically identical for the vast majority of words used casual, beginner, and intermediate tournament play.  The most notable omission from ENABLE+ is &lt;code&gt;JIVY,&lt;/code&gt; which is allowed in North American Scrabble, and the most notable addition to ENABLE+ is &lt;code&gt;ZEN,&lt;/code&gt; which is not allowed in North American Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you can easily obtain the full North American Lexicon by downloading the (free, open-source) program &lt;a href=&quot;http://zyzzyva.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zyzzyva&lt;/a&gt;, which has searchable versions with definitions of all of the various Scrabble dictionaries used worldwide.  Several iPhone apps, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/checkword/id284938074?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Checkword&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/zarf/id353428453?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zarf&lt;/a&gt;.  The tournament lexicon (as of July 2009) is no longer managed by Hasbro (the company that owns Scrabble), but rather by the North American Scrabble Players Association (NASPA) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabbleplayers.org/w/Dictionary_Committee&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dictionary Committee&lt;/a&gt;, and thus it is freely available through the sources mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="137" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2011-11-08T21:03:18.623" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T21:03:18.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="722" CreationDate="2011-01-20T20:35:54.003" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a character can attack unarmed.  &quot;If a hero attacks without a weapon, he attacks with his fists.  This is a melee attack that grants one red die and has no special abilities.&quot;  (Descent rules, p19.)  So it's a base melee attack using the minimum melee dice - the red plus however many black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ranged and Magic attacks cannot be made without a weapon.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to house-rule allowing weaponless attacks of all three kinds, I would argue strongly in favour of using the base red (melee), blue (range) or white (magic) die as well as the black; this is the basic die used for all weapons of that type and is important for game design in distinguishing the range/damage properties of each attack type.  These basic attack dice also carry the important one-in-six automatic-miss chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-01-20T20:35:54.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2273" CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:00:22.557" Score="17" ViewCount="10941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard people describe San Juan as Puerto Rico's little brother. What's actually the difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the game-play changed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it any easier to teach new people?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth buying if I already have Puerto Rico?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T19:35:56.480" Title="What's the difference between Puerto Rico and San Juan?" Tags="|puerto-rico|san-juan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:14:57.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One is played with cards (SJ) and one is played on a board (PR).  San Juan is certainly easier to teach and far faster to play (not to mention setup).  It's a quick fun game.  It's still rich in strategy in the way that Puerto Rico is, but, it lacks some of the complexity, depth, and nail-biting-ness that I've found in a good Puerto Rico game.  Oh, for a list of discussion threads on BGG that have gone over this, see &lt;A href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;q=puerto+rico+versus+san+juan#hl=en&amp;amp;q=+site:boardgamegeek.com+puerto+rico+versus+san+juan+game&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=fs84TcHdF8K78gbSkOneCg&amp;amp;ved=0CB8QrQIwAA&amp;amp;fp=1&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&amp;amp;cad=b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastEditorUserId="1666" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T19:35:56.480" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T19:35:56.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2011-01-21T00:20:04.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;San Juan takes a couple of the concepts from Puerto Rico: building assets that then provide points and resources or some other benefit, and per-turn role-picking, and implements them in a card game with similar imagery and item names to Puerto Rico. Aside from the 5 role tokens, San Juan is 100% cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I've come to playing Puerto Rico was about three turns on BSW, but it is definitely a much more complex game than San Juan. In addition to building structures, you have to manage placement of workers on them. If I understand correctly, produced resources can't be turned immediately into new buildings or workers, but must be shipped off first, shipping be another mechanic not found in San Juan. I'm guessing there are more differences, but as I said I haven't played a full game of Puerto Rico yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To boil it down, San Juan is a simple card game, and Puerto Rico is a (very?) complex board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T00:20:04.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:01:40.873" Score="18" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Answering the question with AAMC bid statistics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others have explained why the Axis have a significant disadvantage in the 2nd Edition rules. I'll attempt to provide hard evidence and quantify this advantage. The popular play-by-email (PBEM) site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aamc.net/&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies Members Club&lt;/a&gt; (which I have no affiliation with and which I hadn't logged onto in years until I did some research for this post) keeps statistics on the games played by its members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's such a strong belief that the game is unbalanced in favor of the allies that the club has introduced a concept known as bidding to even out the game. Before the game starts, each player bids for how many extra IPCs they would need to be given to play the Axis. Then are then allowed to use this money to purchase and place additional units on the board prior to the start of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bidding can either be hidden (both bids placed in secret and low bid plays the Axis) or open, where players bid each other down over multiple rounds until someone calls uncle (like the old game show Name that Tune). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played in years and looked up my old game logs. I had about a 0.500 win percentage with an average bid of about 12. There is a (fairly vapid) &lt;a href=&quot;http://aamc.net/bunker/forumsql/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=374&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on the AAMC message boards asking what bids are running now, the consensus seems to be the low 20s. Lastly, I logged on and checked the game logs for the club's top ranked player. The average bid over his last 20 games was something like 22. The difference in the bids is explained because I always played no first turn Russian attack, which is evidently worth about 10 IPCs to the Axis (because they can save the units in Finland, or at least the fighter). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, among the very seasoned 2nd edition players over at AAMC, the consensus is that it's not fair to take the Axis unless the Allies spot them the equivalent of &lt;strong&gt;more than 7 infantry on the first turn to be placed anywhere on the game board&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a fairly insane unbalance in the game. I believe the only reason it didn't tank the game completely is because although the Allied advantage is large it is also hard to capitalize on if you're inexperienced: the Allies require more finesse to play (flawless execution of strategies like &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/essay2.htm&quot;&gt;shuck-shuck&lt;/a&gt;), often much more than the novice A&amp;amp;A player has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T23:15:36.857" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T23:15:36.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2271" CreationDate="2011-01-21T01:38:07.660" Score="12" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook, when using Masquerade, the cards passed between players must remain invisible until each player chooses the card to pass and places it down. I've always assumed it means that the passing itself is also done when the cards are face-down, which makes it the only card in the game that adds uncertainty to the number of VPs each player has. It was strange, but interesting to play nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lately, however, I've begun playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://meandmydroid.blogspot.com/2010/11/androminion.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Androminion&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, and noticed that when passing cards using Masquerade in this version, the cards are passed face-up. I've checked the rulebook again, and it DOES seem like this is a gray area: the cards to pass should be selected when all the cards are face-down, but what happens later is not specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - which is the 'correct' use of Masquerade? Passing cards face-up, so all the players can fully see the implications of this turn, or passing them face-down, adding a bit of uncertainty to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/q3cnI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Masquerade&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T23:29:23.003" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T23:29:23.003" Title="Correct/Recommended use of Masquerade in Dominion: Intrigue" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2270" CreationDate="2011-01-21T02:13:20.993" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Intrigue rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First you draw 2 cards. Next, each player (all at the same time) chooses a card from his hand and places it face down on the table between him and the player to his left. The player to the left then puts that card into his hand. Cards are passed simultaneously, so you may not look at the card you are receiving until you have chosen a card to pass. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree this is ambiguous, but I think your original interpretation is correct: the cards are not public and people only know what they passed and what they received. There are three things that support my claim:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rules do state that the card is placed face down. The very next sentence says the card is put into the hand. I believe that if the intent was for the cards to be revealed that the rules would have explicitly told the players to turn the cards over, or to reveal them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The simplified description on the card (see picture above), is &quot;Each player passes a card from his hand to the left at once.&quot; The phrase &quot;at once&quot; implies that the passing should be done by all players simultaneously and that the only action they should be performing is the passing. That is, no looking at what you're being handed, no turning over what you're handing off so everyone else can see it--period. Pass the card at once.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The card is called &lt;strong&gt;Masquerade&lt;/strong&gt;, which is a party where the guests wear masks to disguise their identities. I think leaving the true identities of what is passed a mystery to the party at large is exactly the spirit of the card's name. The fact that Masquerade is the only way that to disguise how many victory points people actually have I find quite charming and not at all a reason to think the passed cards should be public knowledge (lots of Dominion cards of one-of-a-kind).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T02:13:20.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2270" CreationDate="2011-01-21T06:29:18.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not reveal the cards. Every time you are supposed to reveal cards, the card will explicitly direct you to do so. There are lots of cards that use the term &quot;reveal&quot; (e.g., Ambassador, Scout, Thief). The reason these cards specify to reveal other cards is that the default is not to reveal cards. Thus, since Masquerade does not direct otherwise, you should follow the default procedure of not revealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T06:29:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2011-01-21T07:27:11.333" Score="19" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Game Play Differences&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the games are thematically the same, and San Juan was designed as the &amp;quot;card game version&amp;quot; of Puerto Rico, the gameplay is actually quite different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Role Selection&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/em&gt; your choice of role has many implications. You need to consider how the role will affect your success, how it will affect the other players, and every bit as importantly, how your success and that of others will be affected if &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; player chooses it. You're commonly making a choice that, for example, hurts you the least, or hurts the leader the most, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &lt;em&gt;San Juan&lt;/em&gt; role selection has minimal affect on others. You do want to choose the role that's best for you, but that's about as far as it goes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Strategic Play&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/em&gt; strongly calls for selecting an overall strategy near the beginning of the game and sticking to it, very broadly the &amp;quot;shipping strategy&amp;quot; or the &amp;quot;building strategy.&amp;quot; There are clever things you can do within each strategy, tactical stuff that requires good decisions every turn, but if you don't decide on a strategy early or switch strategies mid-game you're very likely to lose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;San Juan&lt;/em&gt; is much more tactical, with very little in the way of strategic play. There are a few cards that call for trying to push the overall game in a certain direction, especially the game-end bonus cards, and some cards complement each other better than others, but it still hard to call it real strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Newbie Forgiveness&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/em&gt; isn't kind to new players, but worse, new players can easily throw the game to a certain player without realizing they're doing it. Sitting to the left of the newbie is an easy way to dramatically increase your odds of winning; seen from the other players' perspective it means the newbie can give you the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;San Juan&lt;/em&gt; isn't a game you're likely to win the first or second time you play if the others are experienced, but you're not going to &amp;quot;give&amp;quot; the game to anyone due to sub-optimal play, and you'll likely score within 20% of the winner no matter how poorly you play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Seating Order&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seating order doesn't just affect the possibility of a new player giving the game away in &lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico,&lt;/em&gt; it also has a strong affect on how easy it will be to achieve your goals. If after a few rounds you decide that your game strategy is to grow and ship as much tobacco as possible, if the player to your right starts growing tobacco you're screwed. The same holds true for the shipping/building strategy lines in general: if the person to your right is using the same broad strategy as you, you're going to have a much tougher time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to &lt;em&gt;San Juan's&lt;/em&gt; general lack of interactivity, you're much less likely to be affected by seating order. I've yet to hear a compelling case for it mattering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Teaching the Game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;San Juan&lt;/em&gt; is definitely easier to teach to new players, though I wouldn't say massively so. However, it is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; easier to teach how to play &lt;em&gt;well&lt;/em&gt; than is &lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico,&lt;/em&gt; and so is more forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is It Worth Buying?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I absolutely consider it to be worth buying. If it's like any game, it's really most like &lt;em&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/em&gt; (see below for inside scoop), but a much lighter version. It's much faster to play than &lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico,&lt;/em&gt; and is actually quite fun with just two players, something that can't really be said of &lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico.&lt;/em&gt; The two games are so dissimilar in play style and feel, you'll never mistake one for the other in any way, even if you played them back-to-back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Just a short bit of gossip about &lt;strong&gt;San Juan&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/strong&gt;: the story goes that when Alea Games saw the (comparatively) great success of Puerto Rico, they started hinting around that they were interested in a card game version. One submission was a game very much like Race for the Galaxy, though many years earlier. The Race-like game wasn't selected as the winner, but the eventual game, San Juan, turned out to have incredible similarities, including the cards-as-resources, cards-as-money, and cards-for-their-face-function game concepts. Whether any ideas were copied or not, in the end Race needed a fair bit of redesign to make it less like what San Juan turned out to be.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-21T22:42:12.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2266" CreationDate="2011-01-21T09:09:11.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing these games have in common is the artwork, theme, publisher and role selection mechanic.&#xA;Alhough with similar themes (building your infrastructure and producing and selling goods),&#xA;most of the game mechanics are completely different.&#xA;Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt; is a boardgame with lots of bits, more rules, takes longer to play (~90 min). Basically a good representative of Alea game series intended more for the gamers and people appreciating a deeper game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8217/san-juan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Juan&lt;/a&gt; is a somewhat light cardgame. It takes less time to play (~45min) and is very similar to a &quot;dumbed down&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt;, but much easier to teach to new people, so it is a good game not only for gamers but also for non-gamers and casual gamers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So answers to your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game play is completely different&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is significantly easier to teach new people&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is definitely worth buying even if you have Puerto Rico. (It will be a nice travel size game, which takes less time). Keep in mind, if you have Race for the Galaxy, then I would say - no need to buy this also.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S. They are both really good games, just really different.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T16:46:28.250" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:46:28.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2011-01-21T12:44:37.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I have not played prosperity yet, I am not entirely sold on this card. You have to go through your deck twice and play it hitting Copper before it increases your deck's efficiency at all. If you hit anything else with it early that can be very disadvantageous. Just think if you went Loan/Silver then on turn three played the Loan and hit the Silver. Obviously opening Loan/Silver is not good at all, but then you have just lowered your buying power to the point that you cannot get a 6cost on turn 3/4 unless you get a +2$ action. Early it actually hurts you if it hits anything other than Copper. Also at some point you might want a Platinum, and it is entirely possible, especially after removing a few Coppers with Loan earlier, that you might hit the Platinum with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the optimal scenario to buy Loan is if there are some good action cards that give +$, allowing you to forgo buying treasures, at least for the early part of the game, there is no quick way to trash cards (Chapel), and there are cards that allow you to get rid of it (Remodel) or cycle it(Vault/Cellar) once it has served its purpose. That isn't to say that is the only time to get it, but I would say that is the best case scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One scenario where I would consider getting it would be to go something like Loan/Monument for the first two turns, then collect a few Festivals while your Loan trashes some Coppers, then later buy a Remodel and turn it into a Festival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you open with loan + a non +$action , then your buying power just isn't increased enough and your deck starts to lag behind from the very beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-EDIT-1/22/11&#xA;The reasons not to get Loan/Silver are&#xA;A) It decreases your chance of removing a copper. This is especially painful given that Loan removes them so slow to begin with. &#xA;B) If it does not remove a copper, it will reduce your maximum hand value back to $5/$3 or $4/$4 for turns 3/4. You lost the most valuable card in your deck for that shuffle.&#xA;C) You waste $1 by purchasing 2 $3 costs rather than a $3 and a $4. This of course only means anything if you assume that $4 cards are better than $3 cards which I believe is a reasonable assumption in the majority of cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conclusion of my post is that the best thing to pair with a Loan at the beginning is a +$action, so if none are available that you want in your deck, you may want to forgo getting Loan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="774" LastEditorUserId="774" LastEditDate="2011-01-22T11:48:14.323" LastActivityDate="2011-01-22T11:48:14.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2288" CreationDate="2011-01-22T16:46:02.153" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing some of the old Avalon Hill games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PanzerBlitz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PanzerBlitz&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midway_%281964_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Midway (1964 edition)&lt;/a&gt; (I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Midway_%281991_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1991 edition&lt;/a&gt; as well, but haven't played it much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;PanzerBlitz&lt;/em&gt;, there are generally two approaches that work well: the widely-spaced unit approach and the heavy stacks approach. However, picking which method to use seems highly biased on how the other player will operate (ie, you've played against them several times and have gained an understanding of their tactical methods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise in &lt;em&gt;Midway&lt;/em&gt;, there are only a couple viable options for the Japanese player - come on full strength, or spread way out and converge from multiple angles from their entry side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many other games follow in these two examples' footsteps: what is the best way to gain an understanding of a particular opponent &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; playing a game with them? Or, asked another way, how can you quickly change &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; playing methodology based on your opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T16:30:08.907" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T16:30:08.907" Title="Evaluating an opponent in a game you're familiar with?" Tags="|psychology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2286" CreationDate="2011-01-22T23:56:48.573" Score="5" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a card in the Battlestar Galactica: Exodus expansion called &quot;Best of the Best&quot;.  It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play before a piloted viper makes an&#xA;  attack.  Instead of rolling the&#xA;  attack, roll the die and destroy that&#xA;  many raiders in the viper's space&#xA;  area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question is:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this card be used to destroy heavy raiders in the viper's space area?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be used to destroy heavy raiders in the viper's space area if a 7 or 8 is rolled on the die?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be used to destroy heavy raiders in the viper's space area if Samuel T. Anders' &quot;Longshot&quot; ability is used to declare that the die result is an 8? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T14:14:16.540" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T14:14:16.540" Title="&quot;Best of the Best&quot; and Heavy Raiders?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|exodus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2282" CreationDate="2011-01-23T03:59:25.527" Score="8" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love cooperative games, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/823/lord-of-the-rings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lord of the Rings&lt;/a&gt; seems to be fairly high on the list. (I have Pandemic, Forbidden Island, and Shadows over Camelot. I'm considering &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38453/space-alert&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Alert&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/71721/space-hulk-death-angel-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Hulk Death Angel&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the Lord of the Rings series, but how deep does the game get into the story line? If people who don't really know the Lord of The Rings books (however few of them there may be) can't play it I'll probably go with something else. How will having little familiarity with the books affect the other players' enjoyment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T23:13:29.903" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T09:00:07.710" Title="Does the cooperative Lord of the Rings game require a decent amount of experience with the books to be playable?" Tags="|lord-of-the-rings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2283" CreationDate="2011-01-23T04:14:43.330" Score="6" ViewCount="11316" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies seems to be a very popular game to the point where I've even seen copies in Toys 'R Us! Before I jump on the bandwagon, I want to be sure I'll be able to get some use out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How difficult is it to teach new people? Is it the kind of game you need to play several times before you really get it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would it be a good game to play with family?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have to be a Game-Geek to have a chance at enjoying it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:52:00.867" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:52:00.867" Title="How difficult is Axis and Allies to learn and teach new players?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2279" CreationDate="2011-01-23T05:07:32.673" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's absolutely not necessary for game play. Players that don't know the book will not get many of the story line references, but I don't think it means they can't enjoy the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T05:07:32.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-01-23T05:44:49.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Moderate Difficulty&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you're talking about A&amp;amp;A Revised or perhaps the 50th edition rules. I mention this because both are slightly more complicated in terms of rules than now obsolete 2nd edition (i.e. the new editions have more units and more special rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the following observations should apply across all versions, with the newer ones being marginally more difficult. I'll address how hard it is to teach into a few key categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules complexity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies is rules intense. I would put the rules complexity about equivalent to Diplomacy. Consider it a full tier above something like Monopoly, Risk, or Clue, but not quite as bad as Arkham Horror. Furthermore, unlike a game like Dominion, where the base mechanic is fairly straightforward and most of the rules are revealed on the cards themselves (i.e. instructions at the point of need), in A&amp;amp;A someone is going to need to have good grasp of the game from the start, or you're all going to be buried in the rule book for the first few games. Be prepared for the first game to take extra time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategy complexity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there is a steep learning curve between the novice and expert player, this should not be a problem for a play group learning together. There are optimal buys and well tested strategies, just like in chess. But if none of you know then you'll all learn together; years from now you'll all have a great laugh about the crazy stuff you tried when starting out. So yes, you need to play several times to get it, but unlike some games, I think A&amp;amp;A is fun when you're learning, so it's not like you'll have to put in four or five games for it to pay off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game geekery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you have to be a true game-geek to enjoy it. I've found its appeal is well calibrated with its rules complexity. Casual gamers who only like the most mass market of games will probably be intimated. But you don't have to be a hard core gamer who thinks Arkham or Twilight Imperium are too simple to like it. That is your group will need to want a challenge beyond the most common games, but being a geek not required. An interest in history in general, WWII, or war games helps as well, as the theme in this game is obviously very strong. If your group wish Risk wasn't so simple and boring, this might be a good option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Family appropriateness&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your family meets the criteria above (ready to graduate to slightly more complicated games) then it might be appropriate. It's a long game, so your family will need to be willing to spend a few hours doing this (or have a big table to leave it set up between sessions). That said, the game is robust to people with different learning curves because it's a team game (Axis vs. Allies). You can team up the strongest and weakest players and/or give the best player the most challenging country. The game is also easy to handicap with &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/177/axis-and-allies-is-there-a-best-country/2269#2269&quot;&gt;bidding&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say &lt;strong&gt;go for it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T05:44:49.340" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-01-23T19:46:06.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not that difficult to learn at a base level, but the large ruleset, range of move variations and many pieces definitely needs everyone's attention and interest from the start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time I tried with a couple of 'game geek' friends, we spent an hour and a half setting it up and reading the instructions, only to realise we'd never finish a full game that evening anyway. Set aside time for a good few trail runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no reason why it wouldn't make a good family game, maybe not so much with some younger kids due to it's complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One persons geekery is another persons passion but it is definitely is at the more complex end of the gaming spectrum. It would also possibly help if you are a fan of war games already - can you tell your British Cruisers from your Japanese Battleships?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't already, it might be worth trying &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Risk&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt; first (the latter is my personal all-time favourite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-01-23T19:46:06.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2278" CreationDate="2011-01-24T03:59:52.000" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card cannot be used to destroy Heavy Raiders. The word &quot;Raiders&quot; refers to normal Raiders only and not Heavy Raiders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to the question about whether or not nukes can destroy Heavy Raiders (the card also only refers to Raiders). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-3-new.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;'s answer is that nukes only destroy normal Raiders, not Heavy Raiders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T03:59:52.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2289" CreationDate="2011-01-24T04:30:15.810" Score="13" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've picked up the Battlestar Galactica: Exodus expansion, and now have the base game, the pegasus expansion, and the exodus expansion.  It has reached the point where it is near impossible to fit all of the components/cards/boards/pieces in the actual box, whilst retaining any semblance of organization.  Does anyone have any recommendations on the best way to build a custom case for this game?  It would have to fit the main board, the New Caprica board, the Pegasus board, the Cylon fleet board.  Ideally, it would have a means to store the 6 different small-sized card decks for the skill cards seperately so that they could be easily stored and retrieved.  Also, if it had small trays for segregating the various ship types (raptor/viper/mk7 viper/raider/heavy raider/basestar/civilian ship) and all the various tokens (damage/trauma/ally/etc) that would be great.  It'd also have to have space for the hundreds of crisis cards, the loyalty cards, the new caprica crisis cards, the super crisis cards, the secret agenda cards, the trial cards, etc.  These tend to be more standard-sized cards, being slightly slimmer than Magic cards but about as tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial impulse is some kind of modified tackle box.  Are there any better solutions?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T16:15:23.520" Title="Aftermarket Cases for Board Games" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2277" CreationDate="2011-01-24T07:55:08.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading people like this is something that takes years of practice and experience.  there are no easy answers.  However, to get you started, here's something:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common personality trait that distinguishes people, fairly 50/50, is risk-aversion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a game as you describe, ask yourself which of two strategies is more based on chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More risk averse people will choose a strategy that minimizes chance (variance), even at the expense of overall win percentage.  For example, in a dice game, a certain strategy might win only 40% of the time, but the decision of win/lose is more based on a player's positioning than the rolls of the dice.  Likewise, the 60% winning strategy can lose spectacularly, if lady luck isn't on the gambler's side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a situation, a risk-averse personality will choose the 40% strategy more often because in the case of a win or lose, they can 'blame' themselves instead of luck, and a win feels more sweet, and a loss doesn't feel uncontrolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determining risk-aversion is fairly simple before the game starts.  Everything from dress to occupation to speech patterns can betray one's temperament.  Salesmen tend to be gamblers, accountants risk-averse.  Suits: risk-averse. Flashy or colorful clothes: gamblers.  Tentative soft speakers: risk averse.  Loud, fast, highly social speakers, gamblers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T07:55:08.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2287" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:15:23.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general I try to do as little box customizing as possible, but here's some tips I've developed for storage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out the fishing section of your local department store. Not for whole tackle boxes, though. You want the little plastic divided trays. There's a lot of different sizes available and most brands even have repositionable dividers for further customization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that takes care of the organization. And by the way, even if everything does fit back in the original box, I recommend getting these trays to organize bitsy games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For storage, if you can't fit it into the original box (and if you're using a few tackle box trays you probably won't be able to) then you need a new box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of plastic tubs you can get (think halfway between a rubbermaid leftovers box for the fridge and a giant put-it-in-the-basement-and-forget-about-it box). Some places even have decent looking storage solutions. I was at walmart the other day and they have canvas-covered storage boxes in a variety of sizes that could be repurposed into game storage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really decorate my storage boxes, but if you wanted to there's plenty of images available for download from boardgamegeek.com for the particular game you're storing. You can print them out on full-page stickers and cut them out with an X-acto for an easy way to label what's in each storage box you make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a picture of what I did for Dungeon Lords:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OltLx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dungeon Lords storage&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily the box was big enough that everything fits back into it. You can see the tray has moveable dividers; some of them are in place for smaller bits, some are removed so I can fit the decks of cards in. You can also see there that I decided to use one big bag for all of the wooden bits. They could be broken out by type, but they're easily divided up come game-time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T16:15:23.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2291" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:17:50.810" Score="7" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Battlestar Galactica game, the quorum card &quot;Assign Vice President&quot; can be given to a player, and causes that player to be the only viable target for the &quot;Administration&quot; location that picks a new President.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, from the card, this is the only effect the card has, and it does not affect who becomes President if the current President is revealed to be a Cylon (or executed). It seems cooler thematically, however, for the Vice President to take the next spot in the succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why this wouldn't work? Is there something I'm missing where game balance would be affected by this rules tweak? It just kind of bugged me that the VP wouldn't take the Presidency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I realize this is slightly subjective in that we don't know Fantasy Flight's reasoning here, but I'm hoping some folks will have some insights I'm missing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T03:25:48.737" Title="Why does BSG's &quot;Assign Vice President&quot; card not affect succession?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2290" CreationDate="2011-01-24T16:28:38.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only mechanical effect I can see to this tweak is that a Cylon president could control who gets the presidency after they reveal, say if they know who the other unrevealed Cylon is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need thematic justification for the original rule, I seem to remember an episode of the show where Zarek (when he was VP) told Roslin that he didn't want to be president.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="659" LastActivityDate="2011-01-24T16:28:38.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2290" CreationDate="2011-01-25T03:25:48.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Vice President title wasn't well thought out, IMO. The way it officially works is that the title is permanent, even if that person becomes President. So, someone could be President and Vice President at the same time. It's not a big deal, it just seems a little silly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would unbalance the game if you adopted a house-rule that the Vice President title also makes the holder the next in line of succession for the Presidency. It would probably make sense for them to then assign the title to someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T03:25:48.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2011-01-25T03:43:21.110" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question makes me wonder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many games where turn order is the same from round to round would be &quot;ruined&quot; if you selected turn order randomly every round, with the caveat that no player could go twice in a row?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, what if you re-organized turn order at the end of every round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I don't think this is a very practical solution, since the act of re-ordering turns at the end of each round would add at least another two minutes per round, but it's conceptually interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T03:43:21.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-25T03:59:57.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you suggest avoiding dice games, but I strongly suspect that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/47389/roll-through-the-ages-the-late-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roll Through The Ages: The Late Bronze Age&lt;/a&gt; would fit the bill quite nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The box it comes in acts as a nice sound-dampening dice-rolling tray, making it far less disruptive than your average dice game. I can imagine playing it on a train without disturbing other passengers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Packs small, plays small, resistant to jostling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Plays two players just fine, and scales to three or four (just in case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) On that note: It's relatively quick to teach (to gamers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T03:59:57.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-25T06:26:41.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base version of Carcassonne can be played on a very compact space, if you get an alternative scoring track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cloth scoring track, plus the draw bag that comes with B&amp;amp;T (I think) that I can carry in a mini-expansion box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30662/travel-carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;travel version of Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iPad version of Caracassonne and Small World are also very nice. You only need one iPad, and the battery lasts ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="91" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T06:26:41.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2277" CreationDate="2011-01-25T06:32:32.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played those particular games, nor do I often play games like them, but here's what I say is the crucial temperamental divide I look out for in players even as I'm sitting down at the table with them: &lt;strong&gt;competitive versus cooperative players&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A competitive player is likely, though not guaranteed, to be loud, brash, and immediately vociferously concerned with their chances of winning the game at hand.  If they have you pegged as one of the good players at the table, they may well be trying to needle or intimidate you already, to gauge your capabilities or gain some kind of psychological advantage.  (Some competitive players, however, are just quiet and observant, watching everything like a hawk until they can go in for the kill.  These are the most dangerous ones.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cooperative player - for want of a better term - is much more likely, in the course of the game, to pursue their own, non-confrontational strategy in an attempt to get a handle on, or just master, the rules.  If you know the game better than they do, it's quite likely that you'll beat them (at least &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; time), because they won't get in the way of your completing your own diabolical masterplan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The competitive players are a different kettle of fish.  You can guarantee that, as soon as they see your strategy start to pay off, they'll attack you with all the force they can muster.  It can be a good idea not to appear too obviously &quot;in the lead&quot; at a table with a competitive player.  They're quite likely to try to destroy your chances of victory even at the cost of their own - propelling one of the diligent, plodding cooperative players into first place.  You have to play much more defensively with these guys on your case - leaving yourself wide open is almost always a mistake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you may be lucky, there may be two loudly competitive &quot;alpha male&quot; gamers at your table, in which case you can let them show off against each other while you pull steadily towards the win.  Just make sure they don't ally against you - that is the worst of all possible worlds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T06:32:32.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2298" CreationDate="2011-01-25T06:41:24.920" Score="33" ViewCount="20117" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guillotine is a fun, quick, bloodthirsty little card game that would grace any group's collection.  It is very simple, which is just as well, as the rulebook errs on the side of vagueness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one card, though, where it's hard to work out how the creators envisaged it to be played.  The Master Spy goes to the back of the line after any action card is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways of interpreting this.  Either the action card is fully resolved, and then the Master Spy goes to the back of the line.  This means that, basically, the Master Spy cannot be executed except fortuitously, when he is the only person left standing at the end of a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other interpretation is that the action card is played, the Master Spy goes to the back of the line, and then the action card is resolved.  So, supposing you play an action that reverses the line: the Master Spy goes to the back of the line, then the line is reversed, and then THWACK!  It's off with his head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter way of playing appeals to most of the groups I've been part of, simply because it allows for clever play (or at least as clever as you can get in a game like Guillotine).  I do suspect us of approaching the game too much like diehard Magic: the Gathering rules lawyers: drawing a fine temporal distinction between a card's being played and a card resolving is probably not something that would occur to casual card players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering, if anyone else here has ever played Guillotine, how do you play the Master Spy?  (I can't imagine Guillotine is a serious enough game for there to have been an &quot;official ruling&quot;, but if there has, that would constitute an even better answer!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T20:08:50.437" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T09:36:18.590" Title="How do you play the Master Spy in Guillotine?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-01-25T07:15:08.007" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Master Spy is quite hard to kill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boardgamegeek posed this question a while ago and got &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/5140/that-ded-elusive-master-spy&quot;&gt;this response&lt;/a&gt; from Wizards of the Coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;there is no way to play a card to get the master spy to the front of the line without him just going back after the cards effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further reference, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://groups.google.com/group/rec.games.board/msg/24a76e71ab308577?pli=1&quot;&gt;secondhand account&lt;/a&gt; but the ruling was during a WoTC run game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the way I've always played it as well.  He's the Master Spy!  Of course he's hard to kill :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T07:23:11.227" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T07:23:11.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-01-25T14:38:03.197" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pat's response is spot on, I think (and bonus points for the official response). However, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; still influence whether you get to kill the spy. The most obvious way would be to use a &quot;Double Header&quot; to kill two nobles if there are only two left in the queue. Also, if there are as many cards left as there are players, then you could try playing a card that makes you kill no nobles at all that turn and hope that the other players will all kill exactly one noble - which would leave the master spy for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T18:39:01.257" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T18:39:01.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:14:04.437" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When placing 1st or 2nd in the basic game, I always look at the board and determine which of the two basic strategies (ore/hay &amp;amp; wood/brick) works best.  If I place 3rd or 4th, and my opponents know what they are doing, I often have to use the opposite strategy (or one of the others i.e. balanced/monopoly/etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers adds wood/sheep as a third equally viable strategy.  I enjoy this since it gives you more options when placing 3rd or 4th.  Since both wood/sheep are needed for boats, players with higher probability wood/sheep hexes will be more able to explore.  Don't under value the 2 bonus points for building on an island.  Unlike longest road and largest army, you can't lose these points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One key difference to the wood/sheep strategy in seafarers is that it is a two-part strategy.  Building towards a high-probability outer island hex allows you to make-up for a lack of that resource on the main island.  In this way, you almost shift strategies mid-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first choice is to build towards a good Gold hex.  You can do anything with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second choice is to build towards a good hay or ore hex.  Both allow you upgrade your cities and free up settlement tokens for further expansion.  Good access to sheep/hay/ore also allows you to hoard development cards and go for largest army &amp;amp; victory point cards. (If you are using the wood/sheep strategy, I assume you already have good access to wool.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have good access to brick on the mainland, building towards brick helps to build settlements without having to trade-in, and also to go for longest road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="789" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T15:15:16.383" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T15:15:16.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2301" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:15:05.450" Score="5" ViewCount="3976" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the current rules in play are along the lines of 'Play 4', does that include any cards you have already played as the result of other actions / playing your Keepers, or do they have to be fresh cards from your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have 2 action cards and 2 keepers in my hand and I have to play 4, do I have to also play the keepers in front of me? (I've interpreted the rules as such in this case)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Zombie Fluxx in this case, but common to all variants of Fluxx I think?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:09:13.090" Title="Fluxx - What counts as a 'play'?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2303" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:15:39.147" Score="3" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of a turn before drawing cards? Or at the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Zombie Fluxx in this case, but common to all variants of Fluxx I think?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:16:53.223" Title="Fluxx - When should I carry out actions / use keepers?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:50:41.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You always draw cards before playing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general turn outline is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw cards (in following the current draw rule)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play cards (in following the current play rule)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard cards (to follow the 'card limit' rule, if applicable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastEditorUserId="487" LastEditDate="2011-01-25T21:56:12.807" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T21:56:12.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2011-01-25T21:54:38.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, putting a keeper on the table in front of you counts as a play, but having a keeper on the table that you previously played is not a play.  (I'm not sure I understand your first paragraph, so I'm trying to answer what I think you're asking)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the current rule is &quot;play 4&quot; you do have to play cards from your hand (including rules, actions, and keepers) until either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You run out of cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play a rule card that changes the play # rule&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have played 4 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T21:54:38.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2011-01-25T22:12:36.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When placing your 1st settlment, you don't usually consider a port when choosing a location.  There are just too many unknowns.  When placing your 2nd settlement, you can build on a 2:1 port or consider building towards it.  You would do this if there was an excess of one resource, and you expect to have good access to that resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To implement this strategy, you must look ahead and see where your opponents will place their second settlements.  Try to determine which strategy your opponents are using based on their first settlement, and figure out what the logical second location is.  If you don't build on the 2:1 port, and instead try to build towards it, you must consider that an opponent will get there first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 problems with trying to use a 2:1 port as part of an overall strategy.  First, you many not be able to predict where you opponents will place their 2nd/3rd settlements.  Second, if you have 2 settlements on a 5-6 or 8-9 hex of that resource, your oppenents will target this hex when they roll a 7.  Third, you will start getting resources in chunks later in the game after you have upgraded to a city/settlement on a hex.  Getting your resources in chunks increases the risk of loosing resources to the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are placing 3rd-4th, you will often only have 1 viable location to get access to brick or ore (since there are only 3 hexes of each).  If the hex is a lower probability (3-4, 10-11), you can build 2 settlements on it without drawing your oppenents attention.  If one of those happens to be on a 3:1 port, it enhances the value of the settlement.  Since it won't get rolled a lot, you won't have excess of this resource type, but you may have an excess of something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="789" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T22:12:36.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:05:02.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Putting a keeper in front of you counts as playing it, so yes, in your example you would have to play all 4 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="625" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:05:02.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2301" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:09:13.090" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that may be worth clarifying (for new players) is that, if you've played one card already this turn and your second play is &quot;Play 4&quot;, you don't play four more cards; you play two more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if you start your turn with &quot;Play 4&quot; in effect and your third play is &quot;Play 2&quot;, you don't play any more cards; you have already played more than your currently allotted number of cards for the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing cards as part of an action &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; count towards your Play 4 limit, though.  For instance &quot;Draw 3 and play 2 of them&quot; counts as one of your four plays for the turn, not two or three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing a Keeper or a Goal does very much count as playing a card.  Creepers don't, of course, but they're a well-documented special case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:09:13.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2302" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:16:53.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zombie Fluxx allows you to kill Zombies during your turn, after your draw.  If you look at the rulebook there is a panel which starts &quot;It's your turn.  Start by drawing 2 cards.&quot;  During the course of that example turn several zombies are killed by dint of the Zombie Season new rule and various Weapon keepers... but these are all completely free actions.  After that the player still has 2 plays (Draw 2 and Play 2 are in effect) to do other cool stuff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Killing zombies, easy when you know how!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-25T23:16:53.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2313" CreationDate="2011-01-25T23:58:26.183" Score="10" ViewCount="2493" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot;&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/a&gt; and its a great game, but it seems a shame that it only really works well with 5+ players. Is there anything I could do to combat this and make 3-4 player games more optimal when playing at home? Here's some ideas I had so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 3 players, each player gets to control 2 knights and alternates which one he plays. He plays them as if they were separate eg. he can't swap cards between their hands. Don't use the traitor when playing this way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 4 players, one knight is played by all the players. His hand is face up the entire game, and the players make decisions as a group. The collectively played knight cannot be a traitor, but the other players might be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have experience with improving the game with 3-4 people or suggestions to offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-01-26T05:49:43.740" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T17:40:45.797" Title="How can I make Shadows Over Camelot play better with 3 or 4 players?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2309" CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:35:08.157" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;SoC is one of my favorite games.  I'm going to assume that the answer you're looking for is how to make it easier for 3-4 players.  I actually quite like three to four players games as there are more interesting decisions, risks, and strategies to playing and winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it easier consider mixing and matching any of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play without a traitor.  Even&#xA;with three players you're likely&#xA;playing with 8 loyalty cards, so the&#xA;traitor isn't likely to be in the&#xA;game anyhow.  Removing infighting&#xA;and suspicion will make the game&#xA;easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're using a&#xA;traitor, don't look at loyalty cards&#xA;until 6 swords are around the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;REMOVE whole sets of fight cards from&#xA;the white deck (1-5).  In higher&#xA;numbers of players, the game is&#xA;easier partially because the knights get to cycle through the white deck making multiple use of special white and merlin cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only require two merlin cards to cancel special black cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not play with the grail.  Remove all despair, desolation, and holy grail cards from the decks.  This focuses the number of quests onto a smaller number of knights for balance.  Plus it eliminates a 'boring' quest.  (Grail duty!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase the starting cards and hand limits, allowing longer quests for the knights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T01:35:08.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2011-01-26T01:37:43.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my interpretation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) [e]ffect of builders in a bazaar round&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bazaar is just like any other round, except you are bidding for your pieces. If a dragon tile comes up, the dragon moves.  If you add to a city with a builder, you immediately get another piece, you may move the princess, if applicable, etc.  You get all the perks except for the chain bazaar (because that could cause players to have multiple tiles to choose from).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  [can] dragons can eat knights in castles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sure, why not?  Dragons are hungry.  Just make sure you keep note which tile the meeple belongs to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) [can]castles can be used over two tile cities where the tiles aren't simple curves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We have been allowing it.  The rules say semi-circular, but I think that the intent is for any two tile city. YMMV&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Also whether the bazaar breaks the road&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, just like cloisters.  Note that there are some cloisters that don't intersect the road too, so look closely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) how to do bazaars near the end of the game when there's not enough tiles left&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are not enough tiles left, then there is no Bazaar.  Play continues as normal. [I thought that this was in the instructions, but I don't see it, so this might be a house rule]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) Also do castles count as cities for the purposes of scoring the king?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depends.  If the castle is incomplete (ie. there is still a follower on it) then no, but if it has been scored, then yes.  This can get tricky to keep track of if a follower gets eaten off a castle or stolen from a tower, as the feature LOOKS complete, even though it really isn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- Snow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user791" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T01:37:43.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-01-26T05:23:10.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How difficult is it to teach new people? Is it the kind of game you need to play several times before you really get it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies is a turn-based game. When it's a player's turn, she goes through a series of steps to complete her turn, after which it is the next person's turn. There are a number of distinct tasks that can be performed during a turn and mastering that sequence takes at least one detailed reading of the rulebook along with a fair amount of practice time. But once you have the turn mechanics mastered, the game moves very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, if you are well-versed at the game it can take a little while to get a new player up to speed. It also requires a bit of patience because it will take the new player some time to get in the groove and it will take a bit of time for them to complete their turns!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be a good game to play with family?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have family members that enjoy lengthy, turn-based games, then yes. My family enjoys games, but more along the lines of card games or fast-paced board games. Spending 15-30 minutes setting everything up, just to &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; playing is not something any of my family members would subject themselves to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have to be a Game-Geek to have a chance at enjoying it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think so. I love the game and I'm not remotely close to what you'd call a board game geek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A Good First Step - Play Online&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you invest in the board game, it might be worthwhile to first read the rulebook and then try the game out online. That way you can get a feel for the turn-based mechanism and see if it's a type of game you (or your family) would enjoy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play the 2nd Edition of Axis &amp;amp; Allies online (for free) at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/Games/WW2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gamesbyemail.com/Games/WW2&lt;/a&gt;. (It's not an interactive game - rather, you make a move and then your opponent is notified. He can then make his move at his leisure, after which you'll be notified.) And you can read the 2nd Edition rulebook at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. If you're interested, drop me a line and I'd be happy to play a game with you and offer any advice or answer any questions you have during our play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, playing online is no substitute for playing it in-person, as you lose the social dynamic, but the nice thing about online play is that you don't have to commit 15-30 minutes for setup nor do you have to set aside a big block of time to play the game start to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T05:23:10.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-26T09:51:55.760" Score="6" ViewCount="3603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have various miniatures (sci-fi and fantasy one), some grounds (tree, hills, barricades) and many many dices. I host regularly every week in a Barcelona bar a boardgame meeting with new people to boardgames and from various language and nationality. I have many new enthusiasts, but few experts in gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking something to propose for the occasional gamer, and at the same time, a miniature wargame that is fairly easy to learn and have fun to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a bad suggestion:&lt;/strong&gt; Dungeon &amp;amp; Dragons, any of Warhammer series, historical reconstruction of fights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is a good suggestion:&lt;/strong&gt; A own made auto generated labyrinth game (I have plenty of tiles), a game with a 15 minutes creating character and quick battles, a game that can play several people at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you please help me with some suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="705" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T22:29:44.937" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T22:29:44.937" Title="Do you know any good miniature wargame that is fairly easy to learn and play?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-02-25T19:31:21.283" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2159" CreationDate="2011-01-26T13:39:15.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a rulesheet for expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/munchkinquest/lookingfortrouble/lookingfortrouble_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I took a glance on it, there are some special expansion-specific things, but I found nothing concerning gameplay changes, so I suppose you can buy (or make your own) munchkins and stands for the monsters of the appropriate colours and enjoy the game :-)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I can't recall any rule prohibiting it, and, as rules usually say, &quot;Like we could stop you&quot; ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="759" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T13:39:15.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-01-26T14:45:01.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We used to play Necromunda years ago--I'm not sure if it's still around. Like Warhammer it is/was a Games Workshop game, but I think it could suit your purposes. It came with enough &quot;terrain&quot; in the box to support a game. It would be well suited to a multi-player game (think of an urban gang-fight free-for-all). Only a few miniatures were needed so that barrier is low and a quick gang could be set up quickly by new players while the seasoned set up the terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T14:45:01.020" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2309" CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:40:45.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another idea: Allow players to choose which knight they play, instead of selecting randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T17:40:45.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2321" CreationDate="2011-01-26T17:59:57.027" Score="8" ViewCount="1768" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play the card &quot;Bridge&quot; twice, which says to reduce the cost of items by 1 (minimum of 0), does this reduce the cost of all items by 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="796" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T18:03:24.660" Title="In Dominion Intrigue does Bridge Stack with Itself" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2320" CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:03:24.660" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed it does.  From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The effect is cumulative; if you Throne Room a Bridge, all cards will cost 2 coins less this turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the effect will still be cumulative if you just play two Bridges in one turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T18:03:24.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:04:52.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rpggeek.com/rpg/286/savage-worlds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Savage Worlds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Savage Worlds is an RPG system - but contains a strong game of miniatures combat! The rules are &quot;Fast! Furious! and Fun!&quot; as advertised. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can learn the game from the book in an evening and teach it in minutes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use all your minis, tiles, and terrain. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can choose an existing setting or create one yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlike many wargames, it's designed to handle many participants in a battle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rulebook is small and inexpensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an active and welcoming Savage Worlds community online.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it makes a good fit for your criteria and hope you give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T18:04:52.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2327" CreationDate="2011-01-26T18:52:17.207" Score="19" ViewCount="7810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Twilight Imperium (3rd edition) a couple times with friends now, and we keep noticing the same thing: no amount of fancy maneuvering, planet conquest, etc. gets people enough victory points to overcome the Imperial strategy card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFSLw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFSLw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Draw the top card from the Objective Deck and place it face up in the common play area. Then receive 2 victory points.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 points from that card are massive, to the point where you can't afford to choose a different strategy card if that one is in the deck on your turn, or you almost certainly won't end up winning the game. Is there a way to deal with that? Are there any house rules that weaken it without messing up the game (e.g. only receiving 1 VP)? Or modifying some other part of the game such that the 2 VPs from Imperial aren't as game-deciding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:21:03.820" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:21:03.820" Title="Reducing the Imperial strategy's power in Twilight Imperium" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:03:38.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another simple game would be the pen-and-paper &quot;Dots&quot;, or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T21:03:38.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:15:00.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heroscape is a solid game that may you may be able to repurpose.  It uses hexes that you could either incorporate in or toss and use whatever you have.  Most importantly it has a &quot;simple rules&quot; variation built in to the rulebook that allows for pretty easy pick-up-and-play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T21:15:00.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2324" CreationDate="2011-01-26T21:20:27.743" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Imperial&quot; is Twilight Imperium's biggest design flaw (IMO, of course).  As you'll typically get the card about twice in a game, and 2 vps is a winning margin in almost all circumstances, it makes the mid/endgame entirely about being the first person to grab Imperial for a second time.  In turn, this forces choice of card 1 to get the initiative whenever possible, so you can take &quot;Imperial&quot;.  Which eliminates a lot of the interest provided by the &lt;em&gt;actual strategies&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opinion is widespread, and the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3variant.pdf&quot;&gt;Twilight Imperium variants FAQ&lt;/a&gt; has an &quot;Ancient Throne&quot; variant designed to deal with this problem.  Play with the &quot;Age of Empire&quot; variant in the rulebook (i.e. face-up Objective cards), and replace the primary ability of &quot;Imperial&quot; with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Imperial Claim&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose either a) or b).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) If you control Mecatol Rex, immediately gain 1 victory point. Also, regardless of your control of Mecatol Rex, during the upcoming Status Phase, you may qualify for any&#xA;number of Public Objective Cards (but must still meet the individually stated requirements of each card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) You may choose to execute the secondary ability of the Imperial Strategy Card (at no cost). No other player may execute this secondary ability this game round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play the secondary as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This became such a popular solution that they printed an &quot;Imperial II&quot; card with this wording in the &quot;Shattered Empire&quot; expansion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansion also contains a more complex solution: It has a variant completely-different set of strategy cards for an alternate style of play; obviously this avoids the problem entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-01-26T21:20:27.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2347" CreationDate="2011-01-27T16:32:15.053" Score="6" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question came up last night while we were playing a game of Warmachine.  A friend was running a Cyclone, and he noticed that the Dual Covering Fire special action is an *Action, not an *Attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that it can be used even if the Cyclone is engaged?  The Action is attached to the ranged weapon however, so does this make it the equivalent of an *Attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T01:07:14.983" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T01:07:14.983" Title="Can a Cyclone's &quot;Dual Covering Fire&quot; Special Action be used if the Cyclone is engaged in melee?" Tags="|warmachine|hordes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2334" CreationDate="2011-01-27T17:33:06.150" Score="5" ViewCount="5496" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1669/what-are-good-games-to-play-during-a-one-hour-lunch-break&quot;&gt;What are good games to play during a one-hour lunch break?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some games to play in short 10-15 minutes breaks in between classes. Here's some of my priorities, more or less in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quick to learn. Total teaching time preferably less than 3 minutes before gameplay starts. Have to be able to teach new people quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transportable. I'm mainly looking for stuff with regular decks of cards, but if other inexpensive proprietary games meet this criteria they're fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short playing time, preferable less than 10 minutes. Obviously I'd love to be able to play a full game of Settlers, but we just don't have enough time for playing or even teaching it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engaging. Fairly quick turns, more or less constant action. Inter-player interaction is always good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A moderate level of luck is fine, but not a TON, like Uno, if possible. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for 'in-between-classes' games that meet the criteria?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T04:54:31.273" Title="Quick engaging card games that can be learned quickly by a new group" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-07-21T04:58:28.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:09:47.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluxx&lt;/strong&gt; springs immediately to mind: almost zero teaching time (&quot;The rules are on the table!  Draw a card then play a card!&quot;), can easily be over inside of ten minutes, inconsequential enough that no one will really mind if the bell goes and you have to quit before anyone has won the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lunch Money&lt;/strong&gt; could probably work inside the given timeframe, but a disturbing game about children beating the crap out of each other in the playground might get you some strange looks, or even disciplinary action, in an academic environment :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought of a couple more good options, so I'm editing them in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Parade&lt;/strong&gt; has really taken off in our group lately - it's simple but brilliant.  There are 6 suits of (Alice in Wonderland-themed) cards, valued from 0 to 11.  Beginning with a &quot;parade&quot; of 6 random cards, each player adds a card to the end of the parade.  You must then add to your collection all cards that are equal-or-higher-valued or same-suited as the card you just played - except for the n cards immediately in front of your card, where n is your card's value.  (i.e. if you play the 10, you pick up nothing unless the parade is now 12 cards long.)  At the end of the game, you score negative face value of card, UNLESS you have the most cards in a suit, in which case they're only -1 each.  Trust me, it's really good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coloretto&lt;/strong&gt; is a simple card game which happens to be the engine behind popular boardgames like Zooloretto and Aquaretto.  Players either draw a card and add it to a pile or take a pile.  Most of the cards have a colour: at the end of the game, you score positive points for cards in 3 of those colours, and negative points for cards in other colours.  Pick up piles too early and you may end up short of cards; wait too long and the other players will screw you by leaving you with a pile of cards of multiple different unwanted colours.  Simple but a lot of fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T00:14:45.627" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T00:14:45.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-01-27T18:42:50.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Egyptian Ratscrew&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egyptian_Ratscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Egyptian ratscrew&lt;/a&gt; is a simple, fast-paced game that can be played with 2 or more players. It's more of  a game for children and adolescents as it focuses more on fast reflexes and pattern recognition than strategy or reading one's opponents. But it is very easy to learn, has a relatively short game play (usually around 10 minutes), and is a good source of silly fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-01-27T18:42:50.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2341" CreationDate="2011-01-27T22:45:13.873" Score="20" ViewCount="2142" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I ran into a situation where I had a single treasure, the Loan card.  I wanted to play the Loan card but I did not want to buy any cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can you play treasure cards and not buy anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I read in the rules that you play treasures first, then buy cards.  So I believe that means I can play treasures and not buy any cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just re-read my question and I failed to mention that I want to make sure I can use the &quot;powers&quot; of the treasure cards even if I don't buy anything.  So in the example above I want to use the powers of the Loan card, but not buy any cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T06:51:33.663" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T14:51:19.883" Title="Do you need to buy a card when playing treasures in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2011-01-27T23:04:10.843" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you do not have to buy a card.  You are free to use the power of Loan or any other treasure played during your turn.  &lt;strong&gt;There is no obligation to buy anything just because you used the power of a treasure.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook pg7, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player may play&#xA;  some or all of the Treasure cards from his hand to his play area&#xA;  and add to their value the coins provided by Action cards played&#xA;  this turn. The player &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; then gain any card in the Supply of equal&#xA;  or lesser value&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and later on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players do not have to&#xA;  use any or all of their Buys&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T07:04:39.140" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T07:04:39.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2011-01-27T23:05:42.467" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's fine.  From the Dominion rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;The cost of a card is in its lower left corner. &lt;strong&gt;The player may play some or all of the Treasure cards from his hand to his play area and add to their value the coins provided by Action cards played this turn.&lt;/strong&gt; The player &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; then gain any card in the Supply of equal or lesser value. He takes the purchased card from its Supply pile and places it face-up on his Discard pile. He my not use the ability of the card when it is gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player has multiple Buys, he combines Treasure cards and any coins available from Action cards to pay for all of the purchases. For example, if Tyler has +1 Buy and 6 coins provided by two Gold cards, he can buy a Cellar costing 2, placing it face-up in his Discard pile. Then, he can buy a Smithy with the remaining 4 coins and place that face-up in his Discard pile. If he wants to use all 6 coins to buy one card, he can buy a Copper (for free) with his second Buy or not buy a second card. &lt;strong&gt;Players do not have to use any or all of their Buys.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(bolded for emphasis by me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDITED&lt;/strong&gt;, to answer Chris' edit: Yes, it's fine to use Loan's &quot;power&quot; and then not buy anything.  As stated in the rules above, you play a Treasure card from your hand, in this case the Loan: at which point the Loan card's abilities kick in, and you carry out all the revealing, discarding and trashing.  Now you have (at least) 1 coin in your pool that you could spend on a Buy: but the rules make it clear that actually buying something is always optional, no matter how much cash or how many Buys you are entitled to!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T07:03:26.610" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T07:03:26.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2344" CreationDate="2011-01-28T00:39:02.953" Score="5" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards (Abbey for example) have a &lt;code&gt;(1x)&lt;/code&gt; next to the name.  What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T06:44:39.663" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T18:01:36.093" Title="Rivals for Catan card game clarification" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2342" CreationDate="2011-01-28T06:43:07.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?RfC-CG-Rules-092710.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; on page 7 has this note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note:&lt;/strong&gt; Some cards are marked &quot;1x.&quot;  This means that you may only have one of these cards in your principality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T06:49:19.830" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T06:49:19.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2339" CreationDate="2011-01-28T14:51:19.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add something minor to the other two answers, you can also play treasure without buying anything to gain the benefits of other cards, e.g. Alchemist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T14:51:19.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2332" CreationDate="2011-01-28T15:58:10.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, found this little tidbit here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?12489-Covering-Fire-while-engaged&amp;amp;highlight=dual+covering+fire+melee&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?12489-Covering-Fire-while-engaged&amp;amp;highlight=dual+covering+fire+melee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that, yes, they can, for the reasons I stated above - because it is a special action, not a special attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T15:58:10.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:13:16.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/177/advanced-civilization&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;H2&gt;Advanced Civilization&lt;/H2&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great strategy game that can plays well with 4-8 players.  The hardest part is finding a good copy since it's out of print, and you also have to have the original Civilization game, since Advanced is an expansion.  Be warned, it takes a full day to play an 8-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T16:13:16.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-01-28T16:15:11.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite difficult find good real strategy game managed to 8 players. But one thing comes to my mind: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37904/formula-d&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Formula D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It can be played up to 10 persons and it is almost strategy (it has a map at least :-).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TaNb0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Formula D&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I can suggest the game loved in my company - &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9220/saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (3 to 10 players). It is card game heavy related with bluffing. Where is bluffing factor, strategy comes too :-) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNWxU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="42" LastEditorUserId="42" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T16:23:24.563" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T16:23:24.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-01-28T17:18:24.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24310/the-red-dragon-inn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Dragon Inn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red Dragon Inn is the game of what happens after your adventuring party returns from the dungeon. They're flush with treasure and eager to party. Each turn, your character:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Performs an action, like starting a round of gambling, or stealing a coin, or punching someone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buys a drink for a friend&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drinks &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three economies in play:&#xA; - Fortitude&#xA; - Alcohol Content&#xA; - Money &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortitude and Alcohol content start at opposite ends of the same track. Fortitude almost never goes up, alcohol content almost never goes down and when they meet, the character is unconscious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a straightforward game with most of the rules outlined on the player boards and cards. It's got humor, but is best when players 'make their own fun' with voices, in-character banter, or just gleeful play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need any two Red Dragon Inn sets to play 8 - they play 4 each and mix just perfectly. The third set is coming soon, apparently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T17:18:24.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3819" CreationDate="2011-01-28T17:40:04.417" Score="5" ViewCount="1537" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dungeon Lords (amazing game!) has a free-to-download &quot;Minions Bearing Gifts&quot; expansion at its website.  However, the expansion is only recommended for expert players of the game, and to give an indication of just &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; expert, the designers have included a quiz that you are advised to score well on before you even think about downloading the expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quiz is really, really, hard.  Having played maybe half a dozen games of Dungeon Lords, I wasn't expecting to ace it... but I got 1/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it might be fun for us to try our hand at working out the answers to the questions together.  After all, there's no reason we can't collaborate in our efforts to become experts at the game!  Without further ado, the quiz:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are 7 pretty tricky questions. Think well, as there might be a catch. The correct answers might include situations that are theoretically allowed by the rules but probably never happen (as they require improbable yet possible card configurations and player behavior).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have to gain more evil than evilometer allows you, you are not gaining any. Can this theoretically happen in the second round of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. No.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b. Yes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c. Yes, but only if you hire at least one Vampire.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d. Yes, but only if you hire two Vampires.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the theoretical maximum number of imps a player can accumulate during a 4 player game?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the highest possible damage one trap can deal?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can it happen that an illusionary hero created by Second Year’s Illusion spell survives a combat round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. He usually does.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b. He never does.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c. He can survive only a round in which was party not conquering.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d. Theoretically, it can survive even a round in which was party conquering.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the theoretical maximum number of actually healed damage in a single round of combat if there is no paladin involved?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the lowest possible score you can achieve in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is start of the last round of a 2 player game (fall of Second Year) and opponent has no production room. If scored now, you would win all 7 exclusive titles. May it happen you score no title (exclusive nor shared) at the end of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. No, you will keep at least one shared title.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b. Yes, but your opponent has to use all three minion actions well this round.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c. Yes, even if your opponent does not perform one of his minion actions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d. Yes, even if your opponent does not perform two of his minion actions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2011-01-28T19:49:19.657" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T14:47:36.200" Title="Dungeon Lords Questions - Really Hard!" Tags="|dungeon-lords|puzzles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-01-28T19:48:12.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two 8-player games in my collection that I've brought along to my weekly cafe boardgames group.  (Well, they have variants or expansions that allow 8 players, anyway...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Citadels&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good, solid &lt;em&gt;gamery&lt;/em&gt; game.  I expect the 8-player version would be too intimidating for people who hadn't played before, but it's definitely the sort of game that people can become obsessed over, and want to play again and again.  Individual turns are really quick, and there's a lot of tension in the fact that everyone's role for the turn is secret until it comes around, so there's definitely plenty to hold people's interest while they're waiting for 7 other players to take their go!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bang!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of a polar opposite to Citadels, in that I would have no qualms about letting a beginner sit down to the game, but I don't think there's quite as much to hold the long-term interest of dedicated strategy-heads.  Bang! is a lot of fun, as players form alliances (or, more often, get embroiled in vendettas) in a Wild West shootout, where no one is quite sure who is on the Sheriff's side and who wants him dead (Werewolf style).  The one issue with it as an 8-player game is the same one that Werewolf has: it's possible to be knocked out of the game pretty quick, and if that happens it's tough to be just a spectator for the next half hour or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: Here's a list of LOTS of 8-player boardgames for anyone interested in really exploring the possibilities: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/tag/8-player&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/tag/8-player&lt;/a&gt;.  Hopefully we have already covered the major contenders between us!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-08T21:33:38.043" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T21:33:38.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:39:02.360" Score="5" ViewCount="1430" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the dragon eliminate only followers or does it also eliminate builders, pigs, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dragon eliminates a follower but leaves the builder in a city, what becomes of him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user812" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-29T21:18:49.447" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T23:38:13.927" Title="Princess &amp; Dragon with Traders &amp; Builders" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2353" CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:48:11.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne can be quite a bewildering game, in that its ruleset has been subject to repeated revision over the years!  There's a good resource here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/&lt;/a&gt; which may help to track the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the old days, builders and pigs counted as &quot;followers&quot; too.  Now they are apparently &quot;special figures&quot;.  But that hasn't granted them any new immunity from being chomped on by dragons!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;stranded builder&quot; scenario &lt;strong&gt;USED&lt;/strong&gt; to work as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;&quot;The builder stays where it is and continues its work, that is, the player can take two turns in the same way as before. It is indeed possible that the city will not belong to anyone, since the builder does not count towards the majority in the city. Then the builder will only be returned to the player when the city is completed, or when it too is eaten by the dragon or removed by a princess.&quot;&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if the dragon left behind a stranded pig by eating a farmer, the pig scored nothing by itself.  You had to get a majority of farmers back into the pig's field to make it useful... or else hope it got eaten by the dragon later too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOW&lt;/strong&gt;, as Pat has so rightly stated, the rules have been somewhat simplified: a builder or a pig that is left on the board as a lone operator starts to feel a bit isolated and sheepish, and returns at once to the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pat therefore has found the correct, up-to-the-minute answer!  I leave this answer up since the way the Carcassonne rules have changed over the years is quite interesting - and, of course, if someone doesn't like the new &quot;streamlined&quot; rules there's nothing to stop them from playing with the old ones.  (I personally always secretly preferred the 2-points-for-a-2-tile city, though I must confess the easier-to-calculate scoring for farmers came as a big relief.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-01-29T23:38:13.927" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T23:38:13.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2353" CreationDate="2011-01-28T20:48:46.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dragon eliminates followers, builders and pigs according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=view&amp;amp;id=47&amp;amp;Itemid=60&quot;&gt;Carcassonne annotated FAQ&lt;/a&gt; p37.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever the&#xA;  dragon enters a tile occupied by game figures (followers, builders or pigs), they are all returned to&#xA;  the relevant player&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules on what happens to a builder or pig when the last follower is removed from a feature have changed since the initial release of the rules.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_50_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Big Box&lt;/a&gt; contains this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player’s last thief, knight, or farmer is removed from a road or city with a&#xA;  builder, or field with a pig, the player takes take his builder or pig, putting it in his supply&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just noticed that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=366&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Big Box 3&lt;/a&gt; is available.  I checked and the rules are the same in there for this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-29T20:47:14.043" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T20:47:14.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-01-28T22:13:45.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41114/the-resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Resistance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always have a look at The Resistance, a recent publication that easily accommodates that number.  If you've ever played Werewolf or one of its many variants, you'll have a good idea of the type of game play, but it's a social deduction game with some clever bits to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-01-28T22:13:45.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2351" CreationDate="2011-01-29T06:12:22.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Yes you can, and I think &quot;C&quot;, but for sure &quot;D&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the board in front of me (so I don't remember what the amount you have to lose is to get to the maximum), but I think that it goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Turn one&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get 2 evil from Food&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy vampire (2 evil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Turn two&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy second vampire (2 evil)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Event &quot;PayDay&quot; makes you pay 4 more evil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's ten evil lost in two turns.  You can do it with one vampire if you only need to lose 8 (&lt;em&gt;substitute the second purchase for another -2 for food&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sound right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="20" LastEditDate="2011-01-29T20:55:16.107" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T20:55:16.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-01-29T12:50:22.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mao_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mao&lt;/a&gt; often in pub situations. A couple of decks of waterproof cards can go a long way, and my friends being who they are, they normally have a deck or two on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is flexible enough that it can be played even with the sort of incomplete decks that you tend to find at a pub. And it can be expanded to many players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unfortunate problem with this game is that you tend to need two or three people who know the basic rules already to bootstrap the game. Also, some people tend to find working the rules out frustrating enough to not have a good time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="816" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-30T03:02:03.047" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T03:02:03.047" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-01-29T20:06:36.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/35704/shadows-over-camelot-merlins-companyr.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merlin's Company Expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since its cooperative and you're all working on the same goal, everything that happens when its not your turn is still highly relevant and important, especially if you're the traitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T23:40:47.400" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T23:40:47.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-29T20:16:33.460" Score="6" ViewCount="1198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the belt in Munchkin Quest the hand, or is it a pile of cards face up on the table? Which cards counts to your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" OwnerDisplayName="Christopher Östlund" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T21:09:38.553" Title="The belt in Munchkin Quest" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2360" CreationDate="2011-01-29T21:09:38.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/munchkinquest/resources.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, p16:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Belt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an Item is not worn and does not require Hands, then it is carried&#xA;  “on your belt.” Typical belt items are one-shots, mostly Scrolls and&#xA;  Potions. You may have any number of Items on your belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-29T21:09:38.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-01-29T23:59:37.950" Score="10" ViewCount="6786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read the manual but don't fully get multi-monster fights. It says you can't chose to fight one, and flee from others. But do you sum up all the monster points and try to beat that in one single combat, or do you fight one monster at a time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="817" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T22:40:20.680" Title="Multi-monster fights in Munchkin Quest" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2365" CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:21:45.507" Score="34" ViewCount="5301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing MtG since Ice Age (mostly with friends) so I'm now sitting on a massive duffle bag of cards, plenty of decks, and quite some experience of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to teach the game to someone completely new. I know there once was a set called &lt;em&gt;Portal&lt;/em&gt; which was designed exactly for that purpose, is it a good resource for teaching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a lot to explain mana, phases, the stack, capabilities, planeswalkers, and all that at the same time using a full compliment of modern cards :-)  Which terms are key and must be taught?  Which can be avoided for a few games while I get them hooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm happy to buy starter decks or to print out some proxies to get my friends started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's the &quot;recommended&quot; way to teach someone MtG starting from the basics ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="694" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T13:54:12.070" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T07:47:27.783" Title="How should I approach teaching Magic:The Gathering to a new player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|teaching|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:34:18.073" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have to say, I &lt;em&gt;hated&lt;/em&gt; Portal.  If someone can't cope with the word &quot;block&quot; (Portal used &quot;intercept&quot; instead) or the concept of playing a spell at instant speed, they're not going to get on with Magic in the long run.  So why even bother with a watered-down version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern Magic Core sets, like M11, are pretty well designed so that they contain everything that makes the game great, while remaining pretty accessible to a beginner.  Sure, there are some moderately advanced concepts in the set... but they tend to be restricted to uncommon or rare cards.  The commons are pretty straightforward, and have important rules clearly reiterated on the cards, in the form of reminder text.  You don't have to worry about explaining at great length how Flying works: it says so on every common card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, Magic is a pretty complicated game. However, it's gotten a lot easier from the worst bad old days of interrupts, mana burn, damage on the stack and the subtle difference between &quot;destroy&quot; and &quot;bury&quot;.  Anyone who can cope with Settlers of Catan shouldn't have a problem getting their head around Magic!  All you really need to explain is one land a turn, sorceries only in your turn outside of combat vs. instants at any time, and the fact that you have a window to do things after attackers are declared, and then after blockers are declared, and you've explained 90% of the &quot;intricacies&quot; of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't sell your friends short - let them into the full and wonderful game.  If you must simplify it, then build some decks with only simpler cards in them, and play with those, gradually introducing more concepts as you go along.  But I really don't think there's any call for Portalizing the game.  Anything that is in a modern Core Set has been proven to be &quot;grokkable&quot; even by beginning players by extensive WotC market research.  I think people respond better, in general, to you giving their intelligence the benefit of the doubt, rather than patronizing them with a vastly reduced experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T00:34:18.073" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2363" CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:41:47.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The monsters combine their strengths: you don't fight them one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?p=922026&quot;&gt;was confirmed&lt;/a&gt; by the &quot;Munchkin Czar&quot; at the Steve Jackson Games Forums, and who would dare to argue with a Munchkin Czar?  (You may find extra clarification of how multi-monster fighting works by reading through the thread, if you're still at all confused.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T07:01:37.060" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T07:01:37.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:42:54.390" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only one advice: &lt;em&gt;Play on small boards !&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just start by understanding a &quot;simplified-but-faithful&quot; formulation of the rules, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?StrasbourgRules&quot;&gt;Strasbourg Rules&lt;/a&gt;, and then practice with a partner (either a beginner or an experienced player) &lt;em&gt;on a 5x5 board&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you both feel too cramped on 5x5 (typically after 5 to 10 games) then move to 7x7, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after quite a long time does it become enjoyable to play on 19x19. Don't try it too soon, or you'll be disoriented by the many possibilities and loose interest in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="694" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T00:42:54.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2351" CreationDate="2011-01-30T00:57:31.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably going to be an ongoing mission, but I'm going to post my workings here as I go along, and see what we end up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 1&lt;/strong&gt;: It's clearly possible to gain 10 evil by the end of the second turn by hiring Vampires at 2 Evil a pop, and then paying them off on PayDay.  The question is, can we get to 10 Evil in two turns without the help of Vampires?  I'm currently thinking that the answer is yes, and that this is acheived through the Special Event &quot;Title Envy&quot; (gain 1 Evil for each exclusive title you currently have).  Between this, gaining up to 4 Evil from Food acquisition, and up to 2 Evil from hiring Witches or Ghosts, I can't imagine it would be impossible to make it to 10 Evil without a single Vampire in one's employ.  Right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 2&lt;/strong&gt;: I spent forever wondering why the answer to this wasn't 31.  You start with 3 imps, you buy the Magic Room, you get 2 imps per turn with your actions, 1 new imp per turn in the Magic Room in the first year, 2 new imps per turn in the Magic room in the second year.  3 + 16 + 12 = 31.  But of course (these questions are fiendish!) you can't always get 2 imps with an action.  To use the same action every turn for the entire game you have to use it as your first action every time, or else it becomes an inaccessible action.  If you are always taking Imps as your first action, then it will sometimes coincide with you being first player, and you will only get 1 new imp that turn.  Suppose you are sitting in fourth seat: on the last turn of the second year you don't need Imps to be your first action, but on the last turn of the first year you do.  So you lose 1 imp to the seating order and end the game with a still fairly incredible army of &lt;strong&gt;30 Imps&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T21:04:28.057" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T21:04:28.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1333" CreationDate="2011-01-30T03:24:59.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is the Rules to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=366&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Box 3 set&lt;/a&gt;.  I believe it answers all of your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Builders in a Bazaar round:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After all tiles have been bought, the players place their purchased tiles, place followers, etc. using the normal rules,&#xA;  beginning with the player to the left of the active player&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not exactly on point, but &quot;using the normal rules&quot; strongly indicates that the builder bonus is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does Bazaar break the road&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, just like anything else.  The road needs to be continuous without breaks of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not enough tiles in a Bazaar round&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too few tiles&lt;/strong&gt;: if a player places a bazaar and there are not enough face-down tiles for all players, no tile auction&#xA;  occurs. The players ignore the bazaar on the tile and the tile is played as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T03:24:59.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2371" CreationDate="2011-01-30T04:59:21.850" Score="7" ViewCount="1660" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with the base game Zombies, is there an official rule for what to do when you run out of Zombies? I checked BGG and the official rulebook and found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T05:40:52.220" Title="What do you do when you run out of Zombies?" Tags="|zombies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2370" CreationDate="2011-01-30T05:40:52.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right, the official rulebook doesn't cover this, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twilightcreationsinc.com/en/zombies/faq/zombies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their FAQ&lt;/a&gt; does:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What if I run out of zombies or tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use any kind of markers you can get a hold of. You can keep track of the zombies you have killed in other ways, such as glass beads, and return the zombies to the pool. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more zombies, Twilight Creations sells a &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fastcommerce.com/twilightcreationsinc/zombies-bagozombies-non-glow-ff8081811779a41e01177f9ee37a5943-p.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bag O' Zombies&lt;/a&gt; for $10, which I believe contains 100 zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-01-30T05:40:52.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2387" CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:26:59.423" Score="46" ViewCount="200052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked at a lot of forum posts on several sites on Pandemic and it seems that there is a decent amount of luck. You may win two 6-epidemic games in a row, then lose three 5-epidemic games. I have no trouble at all with luck, but I'm curious: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Pandemic strategies did you figure out after several games that help you get better win %'s on normal and heroic modes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading through a large portion of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/300287/common-mistakes/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; I've gathered a few things that are important. &lt;em&gt;Any other suggestions on strategy are appreciated as well!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know special combinations: when a disease is cured you can use the dispatcher to walk the medic around, which automatically cures any cubes of the cured color on those cities. Any other good combos you've discovered?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know when it's worth it to eradicate a disease, and when to focus on curing diseases vs. removing cubes. How can I tell that? What other hard decisions are there that I should be aware of?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know the rules. I just found out that you can &lt;em&gt;take&lt;/em&gt; cards from another player if they would be able to give them to you on their turn. So if you're on the same tile as the researcher, you can take any other their cards for 1 action each. Any other rule gotchas that make the game easier?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="22137" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T18:20:05.880" LastActivityDate="2022-11-23T08:40:02.863" Title="What are good general strategies for Pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2377" CreationDate="2011-01-30T21:32:13.083" Score="19" ViewCount="4784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently have Fluxx and Zombie Fluxx, and I've noticed there are some differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;obviously, Zombie Fluxx is more centered around creepers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zombie Fluxx is considerably less random. Less crazy things like X=X+1 and less weird rule cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since it's less random, Zombie Fluxx tends to have &lt;em&gt;slighty&lt;/em&gt; more strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zombie Fluxx can seem to have more of a 'point' to new players. With regular Fluxx I often find new players getting bored because the goals are so random, and there's little to no choices they can make that will affect the game. In Zombie Fluxx you can at least focus on getting rid of your zombies and improve your chances of winning &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some reason, Zombie Fluxx works a little better with large numbers of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluxx also seems to be one of the few games where all the sequels are 'better' than the original, at least with BGG rankings and my personal preference. As I said above, the expansions seems to have just a little more strategy and just a little less randomness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you noticed any other general differences between the other Fluxx games that would be good to know before buying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T06:49:40.790" LastActivityDate="2018-04-26T06:06:10.947" Title="What are the differences between the Fluxx games?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2376" CreationDate="2011-01-30T22:44:59.983" Score="17" ViewCount="13959" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a ton of different expansions for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; base game. What are some of the differences between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does each one add to the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each one change the strategy and gameplay?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What new rules and tiles does each one add?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:01:51.970" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:01:51.970" Title="How do the expansions for Carcassonne change the game?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2011-01-31T00:18:28.947" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty vast question, as there must be at least a dozen expansions for Carcassonne now, ranging in style from the pretty logical to the completely whimsical (hello Catapult).  I'm afraid that I don't own ALL the expansions to Carcassone - if anyone here does, I salute them - so I can't give a truly definitive answer, so I'll give a brief description of what I think the various expansions in my old Big Box add.  And that should definitely be a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The River&lt;/strong&gt; is a small and pretty nonessential expansion.  Essentially it provides a new introductory phase to the game: instead of plunging the players right into the thick of random tile draw, they get a dozen fairly gentle and non-confrontational tiles to ease them into things.  This is probably good if you're playing with beginners; as a Carcassonne veteran I can't say I would really miss it.  I guess the main difference it makes is forcibly opening up the board the beginning, instead of starting players off all in the same area.... creating a play environment that's less instantly competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/strong&gt; introduces Inns and Cathedrals, of course, but its main contribution is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; the Big Follower, which makes for a much MORE cutthroat and competitive game.  Without the Big Follower it's really quite hard to muscle in on someone's city and steal all their points from under their nose.  With him it's a constant threat.  The inns and cathedrals add tiles to the game that basically double the value of roads or cities if you complete them... or give you nothing if you don't complete.  This kind of thing obviously appeals to gambling types... and also people who love to sabotage the overly ambitious projects of others!  I personally think the Inns tend to have a fairly minor impact on the game, but the Cathedrals are crucial - if one or more players start constructing a vast urban megalopolis that stands to gain them dozens of points, the chance to build a Cathedral and reduce all their plans to nothing - or possibly give them an insuperable lead, if you've underestimated their skills! - adds so much extra tension and strategy to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Builders&lt;/strong&gt; is another seemingly small expansion that in fact adds a ton of interest and options to the game.  Traders give players a strong incentive to complete each other's cities - something that would be ridiculous in the basic game.  The pig, like the inns, I can take or leave - it enables a few more points to be earned on top of a farmer dominated strategy, as long as you can maintain control of your vast pasture, that is!  Builders though are massive - with a builder in play you can get two turns for the price of one every time you expand a city or a road with a builder on it.  This is such a major effect that everyone has to try their damnedest to keep their builder in action - while trying to shut down other people's builders at the earliest opportunity!  As you can probably tell by now, I &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; like expansions that increase the potential for interaction and aggressive competition in Carcassonne.  Some people (my wife for instance!) hate games that feel too competitive - if you'd rather just work away on your Carcassonne game in one corner of the board, while the other players leave you to it, then you should take any recommendations by me with a pinch of salt...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to get a bit less verbose from here on in, because for me, the &quot;ideal&quot; Carcassonne setup is Inns, Cathedrals, Traders and Builders, with or without the River.  However my box does also contain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Princess &amp;amp; The Dragon&lt;/strong&gt;, which will appeal strongly to those who like a storytelling component to the game.  This expansion, for me, feels less tactical and more about the &quot;coolness&quot; appeal of a giant red dragon rampaging over the board eating meeples.  (I do really love the sheer size of the dragon meeple!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Tower&lt;/strong&gt; always struck me as a pretty bad expansion, and I believe it's been retired from more recent editions of the Big Box than mine.  Basically you're building high towers over the board: the higher your followers are, the further they can &quot;reach&quot; to kidnap and hold to ransom opposing followers.  This always seemed really abstract and counterintuitive to me; it didn't seem to work especially well in the two player game that I tried it in, though it might be more fun in a many-player game.  The expansion also contained a completely non-essential Tower component in which you can stack your game tiles, which I resented (presumably) being charged extra for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the other expansions: I own &quot;&lt;strong&gt;The Count&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, but have actually never played with it, as it seems to have a really complicated game of political manoeuvring and oneupmanship in it, and quite often I want to play Carcassonne because it's fairly simple and elegant!  One expansion that I don't own and have played with only once, but which I was favourably impressed with, was &quot;Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&quot;.  In particular I remember it introduced Abbey tiles which can be used to fill in difficult gaps... independently of whether cruel players have boxed you in with near-impossible demands on the final tile to complete your city!  This is obviously a huge change and one that no one can afford to ignore; I love expansions that are that game-changing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there was also something (Barns I think?) which enabled farms to be scored, and farmers to return to people's hands before the end of the game, which has similar ground-breaking implications on potential strategies for the game.  The next Carcassonne expansion I buy will definitely be this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final word how the expansions change the game: all of them contain a few or quite a lot of new tiles, which are much more complex than ones found in the basic set.  In the basic set, you can &quot;trap&quot; people's followers pretty effectively by making it impossible for them to find the right tile to complete their city.  Once you add in a few expansions, there are enough truly wacky tiles out there that, no matter what crazy limitations you place on a space, there's probably something out there that can fill it.  (Or an Abbey!)  The expansions therefore add an element of randomness to proceedings in that you can never be sure if a city is doomed or if you will draw into the perfect mad piece to finish it.  Some might not like that element of luck but I think most quite enjoy the possibility that, against all the odds and the machinations of the other players, the gods may smile and deliver that one-tile-in-a-hundred into their lap :D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T02:33:12.013" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T02:33:12.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2011-01-31T03:47:51.597" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introduces 6 &quot;joker&quot; abbey tiles. Six Mayor meeples, one for each player. Twelve new landscape tiles. Six wagon pieces, one for each player. And six barns, one for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wagons allow you to move from a road to an open city tile if you complete the road. This allows you to claim something new without using an extra turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mayor meeple can only be used on a city tile, and counts for an extra follower for every shield found on a city tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The six Abbey tiles allow you to fill a gap between a cross of tiles. It has to be surrounded from top, bottom, left, and right (diagonal is not necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barns allow you claim a farm on any corner where 4 green fields connect. Any farmers present on the farms at this point will get returned to their owners, and normal scoring rules will apply. The barn will remain, however, and score 4 points for each city at game end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor has the most impact of all the expansion packs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of challenges of Carcassone was farming. Farming was a critical component to winning. But committing too many farmers, and getting into a farm-war early on, was quite expensive. You would lose many of your meeples until game end, which prevents you from using them at a critical junction later in the game. Striking the right balance between farming and other objectives was critical. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barn invalidates this and allows you to be more reckless in the beginning to get a &quot;point rush&quot; until your farmers are eventually returned to you, freeing them up for other uses. Personally I'm not a fan of this feature; it places far too much emphasis on luck, and being the first to connect a barn is the most advantageous. This alters the beginning of the game where it's a race to farm and place a barn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mayor meeple changes game fundamentals too. For every shield the Mayor meeple counts as an extra follower. This does make for interesting cut-throat gameplay. The game becomes far more aggressive where everyone is actively trying to steal others' cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also something I'm not pleased with. I feel, over all, the Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor shifts the balance of the game to a far more aggressive posture, and this could be annoying to some as they will rarely be left alone and must respond to aggression on every turn instead of trying to play their game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the &quot;joker&quot; card, or Abbey tile, I feel is a cheap &quot;get out of jail&quot; card for the player, and invalidates some of your strategy if you like blocking your opponents while you work on your own objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am extremely competitive but I feel the game already has a fantastic balance with other expansions (Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, Builders &amp;amp; Traders) and this expansion just tips it a bit too far. My friends like this and as such I play this expansion very often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introduces 18 new landscape tiles, and six large followers. The new tiles include two special cathedral tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The landscape tiles now include Inns, which, if the road gets completed, let you score two points for each tile instead of one. This is a nice feature as it adds more value to road tiles, and shifts some of the emphasis from city building to road building. These tiles come with the added risk of, if they're not completed, not receiving any points for them. I think this is a nice feature in terms of risk/reward. It's very cool to watch others trying to join your long road that has an Inn for a share of the spoils!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cathedrals applies the same concept to city building. The reward in this case is three points for each completed city tile, and no points for an incomplete city. This is fascinating because you can use cathedral tiles offensively to prevent opponents from earning points on their cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The large follower, which counts for two followers, is also intriguing since it presents you with a chance to steal your opponents points by taking over their cities, farms, or roads. You now have an incentive to be aggressive, whereas in the original Carcassone such insidious plotting required more careful planning and an extra turn to place two followers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you include &lt;strong&gt;Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&lt;/strong&gt; such strategies are somewhat mitigated since the Mayor will likely trump a large follower (the Mayor can only be used on a city tile). The Abbey, or &quot;joker&quot; card, will go some way to allow a player to complete their feature even if you strived to make this task difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Builders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introduces 24 more landscape tiles. Twenty trade good tokens (9 barrels, 6 grain, and 5 cloth). Six pig meeples, and six builder meeples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pig meeple is a great addition. It allows your to earn 1 additional point for every city connected to a farm. You must already have a farmer on the farm in order to place the pig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The builder meeple is a fantastic addition and changes the gameplay substantially. You can add your builder to any city or road with a follower. On your next turn, if you can add to your city or road, you get an extra turn immediately for a maximum of two turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is great because it adds an element of risk that plays into the largest part of the expansion: The trade goods. Each of the new added tiles has an icon denoting a trade good. The player who closes a city, irrespective of the owner, gets to keep whatever trade good tokens are denoted on the city tiles. If you close a city with two tiles that have barrels on them, for example, you get two barrel tokens. This is exciting because having a builder on a city gives you an extra turn that increases your chances of completing your city and gaining the tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whoever has the most of each token by game end earns 10 points for each type. If you have the most barrel and cloth tokens you gain an additional 20 points to your total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This adds an incentive to close your opponents cities if you deem it beneficial to you, or damaging to your most threatening opponents. Closing a city with trade goods could deny your opponents points, or/and help you earn more points, or match their number of trade good tokens, thus invalidating their advantage. A lot of thought can be applied to how you manage this feature of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played any of the other expansions, but I know of Tower, River II, Count, King &amp;amp; Cult, Princess &amp;amp; Dragon, Wheel of Fortune. I will give Tower a try this week and update my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, of all of those I think the Count sounds most fascinating and will likely change gameplay drastically. It includes a separate set of pre-numbered tiles that must be assembled to create a castle. Your followers presence in the castle now and other events that take place on this castle now influence gameplay and scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T06:30:20.373" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T06:30:20.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2373" CreationDate="2011-01-31T04:13:46.920" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ecofluxx has a much bigger emphasis on &quot;X eats Y&quot; goals; where if you have X and &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; has Y, you win.  It theoretically makes it a little easier to win the game.  It also has a card named Extinction (I think?), to permanently remove any one keeper from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monty Python Fluxx has a lot of cards that say &quot;Do this on your turn to earn extra rewards&quot;, e.g. Speak in a funny accent to pick up another card.  It makes the game more...  Interactive.  It also has a number of the 'knight of the round table' keepers - they are often interchangable for goals.  In the same way as &quot;Food&quot;, sometimes it is one specific knight, but often it is &quot;X plus any knight&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stoner Fluxx has a number of cards that are meaningless unless you have marijuana available (e.g. &quot;Everybody Toke!&quot;); I suppose you could either remove them from the deck or have a house rule you can play them as cards when you really don't want to do anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upcoming Pirate Fluxx sounds like it will be awesome and different, with an emphasis on an incredibly strong keeper &quot;The Captain's Hat&quot;, that provides the player with a number of bonuses, along with everyone else receiving +1 Draw / +1 Play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="477" LastEditorUserId="477" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T04:23:11.257" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T04:23:11.257" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-01-31T05:45:53.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Alexandros&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best way to describe this game is that it's a combination of Carcassonne and Ticket to Ride. It's far more reliant on strategy than it is on luck, although the element of cards invariably means some luck is involved. The strategy, however, while very simple to learn, is rewarding and presents you with endless possibilities. It's a divide and conquer game with many twists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T18:51:59.557" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:51:59.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2373" CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:18:23.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only Fluxx variant I have played that has not yet been mentioned is Family Fluxx.  It's a greatly simplified version of the game that can easily be grasped by small children.  Ideally you do want to play it at a family gathering, as there are various cards that, e.g., give you a bonus if you're a grandparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually think it may be my favourite of all the Fluxxes.  In general I find Fluxx a bit too silly and random to hold my interest for long; while at the same time having the potential to get so complicated it makes your head hurt (notably when that X = X + 1 card, whatever it's called, comes into play).  Family Fluxx is for children so you can forgive it its lack of true strategic depth, and obviously it doesn't have any of the real brain-melting card combinations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's a sweet and charming game that you'd actual be happy to bring out when there are kids around - it certainly beats the Dora the Explorer boardgame into a cocked hat, plus it is clearly a gateway drug to ensure that your small relatives are likely to become proper gamers when they're a bit older!  Get 'em while they're young...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T06:18:23.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-31T06:32:44.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use Rock, Paper, Scissors when we are three players. If we're more, for the sake of simplicity we use dice. Thereafter the first game the winner always starts first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T06:32:44.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2011-01-31T08:02:45.807" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pandemic is an interesting game, with an interesting luck curve.  Actually, on heroic levels there's less randomness in the game than on normal levels, since fewer black cards will come into play in the game.  The players, therefore, have more predictability and can plan better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most important &lt;strong&gt;read the rules&lt;/strong&gt; trick is that the rules state that this is &lt;em&gt;not a game of memory&lt;/em&gt; and players are encouraged to look at all available information.  This means that when you're about to reshuffle black, study the cards.  The plans formed should &lt;strong&gt;not be about the cubes on the board&lt;/strong&gt;, but the cards about to be drawn from the top.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine that knowledge with the cubes on the board to make the plan.  Count the number of black cards that come up in the reshuffle pile to know when to switch to playing it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A corollary to this, is that most strategic players overestimate how bad outbreaks are.   The only really bad thing is a chain-reaction outbreak.  For heroic games, consider the outbreak counter a pool of resources to be consumed.  Don't worry about it until it's halfway used.  Time spent early curing disease is far better than time spent on 3 cube cities, since it's far cheaper to clean up after the disease has been cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, curing is everything, as that's the only way to win.  Don't waste time treating or worse, eradicating, if you can productively move game state towards a cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T20:06:58.957" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T20:06:58.957" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2386" CreationDate="2011-01-31T11:48:34.707" Score="11" ViewCount="5895" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're currently in the process of furnishing the 'games' room&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; in our house and we're planning to get some storage units to go along one wall.  I'm interested to know if anyone has recommendations as to the size of cupboards we should look to get.  In particular are there standard game box sizes, or is there a largest game box size we should try to cater for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine there are some games that are ridiculously large, but it would be nice to be able to store all our games in one place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* Also known as the 'craft' room by my significant other&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T14:58:58.820" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T19:34:01.537" Title="Cupboard size for storing board games" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2011-01-31T13:43:44.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we moved into our house, there was a hand-made storage unit in the basement that I ended up commandeering for all my board games because of its near-perfect size.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interior storage area of each shelf is &lt;strong&gt;9 1/2&quot; tall, 14&quot; deep, and 48&quot; wide.&lt;/strong&gt;   If you make the interior dimensions a little deeper and wider, you should be able to affix doors to the front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The storage unit has no doors, so a few games hang out by a quarter- to half-inch, but otherwise, the dimensions are spot on, assuming you don't mind stacking games on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all of the games I have are no wider than 14&quot;, and 1&quot; or 2&quot; tall, which makes things nice and consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give you an idea of what it can hold, I'm able to fit the following games onto two shelves horizontally except where noted as being rotated 90 degrees with an asterisk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf 1:  Carcassonne *, Puerto Rico, Risk, Axis &amp;amp; Allies, Dungeon, Hunt for Red October, Horus Heresy, two Munchkin games *, Boggle (Horus Heresy and Axis &amp;amp; Allies are stacked on top of each other with no more room; that should give you an idea as to how many &quot;big-box&quot; games you can stack on top of each other)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shelf 2:  Chaos in the Old World, Lord of the Rings, Mastermind, Power Grid, Buffy the Vampire Slayer, Scrabble, Monopoly, Upwords&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fireball Island and Battle Masters have to sit on top because they're too darn big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-01-31T13:48:50.923" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T13:48:50.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-01-31T17:58:26.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, because most of the games originating in Germany are designed to be played by families, having the youngest player go first (in the case where going first is an advantage) or the oldest player go first (in the case where going first is a disadvantage) actually makes reasonable sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of them are just for fun and work fine if you play a wide variety of games, but as noted are a problem if you play the same game multiple times in close temporal proximity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all my gaming is with groups of adults, we always choose randomly, most commonly by grabbing one of each player's color marker (commonly score markers are already stacked up and waiting) and randomly drawing one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases where the players don't have identifying markers (SmallWorld, for example), we either use a handy &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timewellspentgames.com/html/gamepage.php?id=2823&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spin-4-It&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (commonly one laying around, or I have one on my keychain):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0buj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spin-4-It metal table spinner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or since most of us have iPhones, the free &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spin-the-coke/id303018470?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spin The Coke app&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WxIZM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spin The Coke iPhone app screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A warning on Spin The Coke, though: at least in earlier versions the first spin always ends up at the same place. The second spin is random, though, so I just start a spin and then start the second spin immediately, no need to wait for the first to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T17:58:26.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2383" CreationDate="2011-01-31T19:34:01.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to buy a shelving unit, Ikea's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00071356&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Expedit&lt;/a&gt; bookcase is fantastic for board games.  It's available in a wide variety of sizes and most game boxes stack well inside.  The modular design also allows you to put drawers or doors on any section you want.  We store larger odd-sized game boxes on top of the bookcase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="95" LastActivityDate="2011-01-31T19:34:01.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2011-02-01T08:37:14.703" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movement is usually the most expensive action. Sure, you're getting closer to be being able to do something useful, but the moving itself isn't technically doing anything - it's just using up a turn. Because of this, if you go to a city with 3 disease cubes on it - strongly consider clearing them all off. If you don't, it just means you'll need to return sooner, and waste more turns getting there. The exception is late in the game - you're probably safe reducing it to the point where it cannot outbreak (ie. when there are two Epidemics left...you only need to reduce a city down to 1 disease cube).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have an Operations Expert in play, build research stations liberally. There are lots of instances where you can save someone else 2 (or many more) actions at the cost of building 1 research station with an Ops Expert. Even something that seems like a 1 for 1 tradeoff is probably worth it, especially if your Ops Expert doesn't have any pressing needs. Late game, you might be able to save someone who has a cure (or is about to have one) 3-4 movement actions that they would have needed just to get to a research station. Build a station in the city they are already in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to place one research station in the middle of a problem area, then fan out from it to clear the surrounding cities. Now I build one station at either end of a problem area, so I can enter on one side, sweep across the problem cities, and leave from the other side, without having to backtrack. (But don't leave huge gaps - I'm talking like: research station -&gt; city -&gt; city -&gt; research station)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be obvious, but pay attention to how many cards of a particular color you've already played. Later in the game, you'll have to make decisions about which to keep. Keep the colors that you've discarded the most of, since there are fewer of them in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when deciding what to keep: I used to think that it made sense to keep the cards that are furthest away from existing research stations. Now, I believe that it might be better to keep cards that are closest to research stations, since you'll be able to quickly get to that area, and you'll probably be there often since it's a problem area, you can use those cards for charter flights - which offer greater flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, wait as long as possible to make the decision of which color to go for (since you'll have to discard so you don't go above 7). If you have 3 red and 3 blue, don't even think about picking one and discarding the other. Get rid of whatever the 7th or 8th card in your had is. Even consider using a special, that is if it will provide a solid benefit at that moment. (An exception would be if another player has 4 red or 4 blue - then you know that &lt;em&gt;they&lt;/em&gt; will be curing that disease, not you - so you'd probably rather keep those 2 yellow cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I said movement is the most expensive action, but getting together 5 of one color is probably worse. It takes a TON of move actions to use the Share Knowledge action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you have the Researcher at the start, find someone with two or more cards of one color, and give them more of that color. This will be the easiest chance you'll have the entire game to use Share Knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for eradicating - I only do it if I can guarantee eradication in the next two player turns (using all 8 of their actions). No scientific basis for that really, but it's something that I have to be able to almost guarantee, given the state of the board (where an Epidemic is unlikely, or unlikely to stymie the attempt). The number of movement actions this will save you down the line is massive. This most often happens with the Dispatcher, Medic combo you mentioned. Also, don't eradicate late in the game (unless it somehow won't negatively affect your ability to cure the other diseases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan ahead as much as possible, but be wary of Epidemics. Don't plan out 4 player turns ahead if an Epidemic is probably going to happen before then. Having a long term plan get interrupted (because of a new emergency) can be devastating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-07T06:25:13.830" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T06:25:13.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-02-01T13:17:23.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often use to say that the person who is having his/her birthday next time. I bit like saying youngest/oldest player but it can still change, especially if its a new crowd of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="36" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T13:17:23.827" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:12:48.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fuzzyheroes.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fuzzy Heros&lt;/a&gt; seems like a nice simple set of rules, though you'll probably want to adjust the theme a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T14:12:48.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-02-01T14:34:41.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mordheim lends itself to a small model count pretty well, and the rules are available on Games Workshop's website for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T14:34:41.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2063" CreationDate="2011-02-01T19:29:54.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do in my playing is give the players enough stamina and sanity tokens to reach their maximum, in denominations so that the player can &quot;break&quot; their stamina and sanity totals without ever having to put them back into the pool, or take new ones out (unless their maximum goes up, obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if an investigator has a maximum of 5 sanity, I'll give them one 3 sanity token, and two 1 sanity tokens, for a total of five.  If they take two points of sanity damage, they move their two single sanity tokens off of their investigator card (or onto their card, it doesn't really matter so long as they are consistent in how they do it).  If they then take a further point of sanity damage, they move the 3 sanity token onto the card, and put the two singles back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same can obviously be done with stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no official rules that state that something happens when clues or money or explored tokens run out, so I would assume that it's safe to go ahead and replace those with stand-ins (small change works well for money: pennies for $1, nickels for $5, and dimes for $10, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that may be worth checking out if you have an iOS device is the Arkham Horror Toolkit released by Fantasy Flight Games on the App Store.  It can keep track of your sanity, stamina, money and clues.  It's not free, but it does have some other neat features (support for the expansions -also not free, but not too expensive), and a built in dice roller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T19:29:54.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2011-02-01T20:55:41.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limit the size of opponents farms.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, by building a road around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2011-02-01T21:04:51.583" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T21:04:51.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2011-02-01T21:03:53.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Merge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot place a Meeple in a castle that is already occupied, be it your own, or another players. However, you can start a new castle nearby and attempt to merge it on a subsequent move. In this case, both players get the fill points for the castle (or road, or farm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great way of neutralising their points, but better still if you can merge 2 Meeples into a castle where your opponent has one. In this case, the player with more men in the castle gets the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to roads and farms - and it is with farms that this kind of play can be crucial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Advice originally via my regular Carcassonne opponent and mentor, &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/#!/pockless&quot;&gt;@Pockless&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-02-01T21:03:53.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2395" CreationDate="2011-02-02T00:08:10.977" Score="10" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;While researching Fluxx for a different question, I came across this chronology for editions of the game in Wikipedia:&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&lt;i&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluxx 2.0&lt;/strong&gt; (new card layout, use of color, bridge-sized cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluxx 2.1&lt;/strong&gt; (reprint of 2.0 with minor changes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluxx 3.0&lt;/strong&gt; (many cards removed and added, to improve balance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluxx 3.1&lt;/strong&gt; (two cards removed, one card added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fluxx 4.0&lt;/strong&gt; (card number increased to 100, all color, introduction of Meta rule and creepers)&lt;/i&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;I am now officially intrigued by the way Fluxx has evolved since its earliest incarnations.  Can anyone provide a rundown?  In particular: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What were the differences been Fluxx 2 and Fluxx 3?  What unbalanced cards or combinations existed in 2.0 and 2.1?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What were the minor (but clearly vitally important) changes to the lineup between 3.0 and 3.1?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T07:09:04.393" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T10:40:36.623" Title="How Has The Fluxx Core Game Changed Over The Years?" Tags="|fluxx|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2394" CreationDate="2011-02-02T02:00:52.380" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Fluxx Wiki has lists of the composition of the various decks linked off &lt;a href=&quot;http://rabbits.continuation.org/wiki/Category:Fluxx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my attempts at answering your specific questions:&#xA;Cards in v2 not in v3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Doughnuts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Eye&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Pyramid&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Taxes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coffee &amp;amp; Doughnuts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Death &amp;amp; Taxes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Great Seal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Mind's Eye&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Money (No Taxes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pilfer the Trash&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trash Hand Limit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trash Keeper Limit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brain Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Final Card Random&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Government Cover Up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hand Limit 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Money Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Secret Data&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tax Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Time Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New cards in v3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sleep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Baked Goods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bed Time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dreamland&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hearts &amp;amp; Minds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rocket Science&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Squishy Chocolate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winning the Lottery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Empty the Trash&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go Fish&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I Need a Goal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jackpot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let's Do That Again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let's Simplify&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No Limits&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rotate Hands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Double Agenda&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reverse Order&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First Play Random&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No-Hand Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Poor Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rich Bonus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Inflation/X = X + 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Looney Labs newsletter from Nov 14, 2002 explains the changes in v3.0 this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.) What will be different? Roughly half of the cards in the deck have changed in some way, but in many cases the revisions are so minor that only a few people will notice them. Over 25% of the cards have been radically changed or are completely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.) Can you be more specific about what's changing? The 4 &amp;quot;Bonus&amp;quot; rules have been replaced with a trio of stronger ones, called the Rich bonus, the Poor Bonus, and the No-Hand Bonus. The 3 new rules which we made into promos for Origins 2002 (X=X+1, Double Agenda, and Reverse Order) have all been added. Those annoying &amp;quot;hide a Keeper&amp;quot; rules are all going away, and we're getting rid of 4 rather wimpy Actions and putting in 7 better ones. We thinned the Keepers down a bit, increased the number of Goals, and made sure no Keeper was useful for only 1 thing. The 5 Keepers being dropped are the Eye, the Pyramid, Coffee, Donuts, and Taxes, but in their place we're adding 2 totally new ones: Sleep and Dreams. Changing the Keeper mix required us to drop a number of Goals that no longer made sense, but of course others were needed for the new Keepers. A couple of Goals also got renamed. Other minor changes included replacing the artwork for War (as I described a few weeks ago) and for Chocolate (since we've learned that a certain powerful Chocolate Corporation has strong attitudes about their trademark on a little slip of paper sticking out of a piece of candy). Final Card Random has been changed to First Play Random (it works better), the blank card has been eliminated (it's obsolete), and the rules insert will be larger (featuring the cartoon shown here). The tuckbox will be the same size, but it will look a bit different; the 6-pack display carton will change only slightly. To sum up: it's way better than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking further at the v3.x page, I think these are the minor changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The chocolate keeper has a kiss in 3.0 and a bar in 3.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 3.0 &amp;quot;The Sun &amp;amp; the Moon&amp;quot; goal is called &amp;quot;Night &amp;amp; Day&amp;quot; in 3.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;Go Fish&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;I Need a Goal&amp;quot; actions are only in 3.0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;Jackpot&amp;quot; action is only in 3.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 3.0 &amp;quot;X = X + 1&amp;quot; rule is called &amp;quot;Inflation&amp;quot; in 3.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 3.1 Fluxx packaging included another card to &amp;quot;Join the Fluxx Fan Club&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T10:40:36.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-02-02T04:36:43.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In any game that revolves around points i like to let players blindly wager points.  Whoever offers the most pays it and selects the player that will go first.  Play continues clockwise.  It makes going first another dimension of the game, and not random chance that in some games seems to have an affect on the whole game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does not work well with new players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T13:21:36.573" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T13:21:36.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2374" CreationDate="2011-02-02T16:46:22.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the expansions have already been covered in the other answers, but I feel &lt;strong&gt;The Count&lt;/strong&gt; warrants a little extra commentary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most significant impact this expansion has is it gives players a strong incentive to complete other players' features (cities, roads, cloisters)--Whenever you play a tile that grants points to another player, you have the option of putting a follower in the big city (&quot;Carcassonne&quot; proper), which can then be brought in as a sort of reinforcement to earn you points on another feature later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, this one rounds out the strategy of the game the best, since it really speeds up game play and keeps the points rolling in more regularly.  I probably play with it 4 out of 5 games I play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="78" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T16:46:22.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2400" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:00:20.040" Score="14" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost to use an Elder Sign to seal a gate is 1 Sanity and 1 Stamina. If you are at 1 on either one of these (or both), can you essentially sacrifice yourself in order to use it? Will the sealing occur before you become insane/wounded/devoured? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T19:58:53.663" Title="Can you sacrifice yourself to use an Elder Sign in Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:12:49.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pat has come up with an authoritative answer, but even if the rulebook had left things ambiguous, that scenario sounds so atmospheric that, if it were my house and it came up, I would definitely want to allow it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror is a game that thrives on its atmosphere: if something so &lt;em&gt;cinematic&lt;/em&gt; was disallowed by the rules, I'd feel a bit cheated by them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-02T19:58:53.663" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T19:58:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2398" CreationDate="2011-02-02T17:35:20.787" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is explicitly allowed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, p18&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use an elder sign, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player removes 1 Sanity and 1 Stamina from his&#xA;investigator sheet. This may knock the investigator&#xA;unconscious or drive him insane, but the elder sign still&#xA;takes effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T17:35:20.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:04:17.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Fluxx's method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;whoever 'calls it' goes first. The easiest way to 'call it' is to draw from the deck and start playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone objects with a reason why they should go first, such as the fact that that player went first last time, then the group decides what to do. Otherwise, you just start playing the game. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-02-02T21:16:54.267" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T21:16:54.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-02-02T20:59:05.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B001037L8K&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BANG&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pretty quick-to-play game for 4 or more players that has gunfights, hidden information, and a western motif.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-02T20:59:05.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2404" CreationDate="2011-02-03T01:18:11.377" Score="31" ViewCount="74852" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cribbage scoring is fairly logical.  There are card combinations worth a given number of points and you can score every unique subset of cards independently and total up the score.  &lt;em&gt;Except for runs of 4 or 5&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a pair is worth 2.  Three of a kind is three different pairs (3 choose 2 is 3) and scores 6 (called a &quot;pair royal&quot;).  A run is 3 or more cards in a row (e.g. 4, 5, 6) and scores one point per card.  It seems to me that in keeping with the other scoring rules, a 4-card run should score 6 (2 3-card runs each made by dropping the end cards) and a 5-card run should score 9.  Instead, a run scores one point per card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a logical reason I'm missing or is this just an inconsistency in Cribbage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(afterthought:  a 5-card flush would score 20, which is a little too much)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T13:31:37.377" Title="Why does a run of 4 in Cribbage score only 4?" Tags="|scoring|cribbage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2011-02-03T03:12:06.443" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First off, taken one way this might be an unanswerable question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling with the question. It seems to be asking folks to guess on what they think the rationale might have been for scoring 4-card runs as 4-points instead of 6 (or some other number); however, since the game was invented in the 17th century its inventor is long-since dead, and absent some comprehensive history on the game and its inception that I'm not aware of the real answer to the question is not knowable. In other words, we can come up with some reasons that seem logical to us, but we will probably never understand the thought process of the game's inventor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That said, here's why I like the rule as-is&lt;/strong&gt; (and incidentally I like your question because I've had the same thought):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best possible hand in cribbage is 29, which involves the Jack that counts for nobs and all of the 5s. Now although hands with lots of fives are always good, often retaining just one or two will only result in a mediocre score where you count a few 15s, a pair, and are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, a strategy that relies on runs, pairs, and 15s will have a lower maximum score, but will get more points if the up card is not exactly as desired. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you're drawing for the best possible hand failing to get that last 5 as the up card will cost you 14 points, as you'll only score 15-8, a pair royal for 6 and 1 for his nobs for 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider now the runs, pairs, and 15s strategy, say for example, 6-7-&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;-8-9. Based on the rules this hand scores: 15-2 (7-8), 15-4 (&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;-8), 15-6 (6-9), run for 10 (6-7-8-9), run for 14 (6-&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;-8-9), and pair for 16 (7-&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;). A super solid hand. In the previous example there is only one card in the deck that gets you the extra 14 points. In this hand the best draw is one of the 4 nines, but the drop-off in points isn't that much if you draw another 8, or a 7, or a 6, or a 5. Less upside potential, but a much more robust hand statistically speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now here's why scoring runs differently breaks things.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If runs of 4 were scored as 6--or more precisely, if you got to count for 3 points every unique run of 3 that you could make, this hand scores much higher. The count to 15-6 is unchanged, but then: run for 9 (6-7-8), run for 12 (6-&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;-8), run for 15 (7-8-9), run for 18 (&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;-8-9), pair for 20 (7-&lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;). Or perhaps a much simpler but more dramatic example is a hand of 5-6-7-8-9, where the score for just the runs would go from 5 points to 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the value of runs is increased, this incentivises players to only go for the much more likely (and now also relatively more lucrative) run hands instead of the larger payoff but higher risk 15 hands. This would make the strategy of the game more myopic and because everyone would be playing the same way because the relative payoff of going for the knock-out blow would be much reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to make too much of all this (too late probably) because ultimately a players freedom is highly restricted by their cards (you only get to discard 2 after all), but the incentives of changing the rule appear to be to be tilted in the wrong direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T03:27:55.523" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T03:27:55.523" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-02-03T03:25:40.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asshole_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;President&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also goes by the less PC, but much more commonly used name of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asshole_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;@$$hole&lt;/a&gt;, but I thought I'd put the G-rated version in large bold letters. Wikipedia doesn't have much to say on the rules because it's so closely related to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dai_Hin_Min&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dai Hin Min&lt;/a&gt;, so the its page is mostly devoted to special rules used to make it into a drinking game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can vouch for its fun without the alcohol, and I think it meets the criteria of easy to learn, requires only a standard deck of cards, is very fast with lots of player interaction, and rewards skill but is still dependent on luck to win consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a &lt;strong&gt;quick summary of play&lt;/strong&gt;, all cards are dealt out and play proceeds around the circle. Players try to get rid of their cards as fast as possible, with the restriction that you have to play matched-ranked cards of a higher rank and quantity than were played previously. Often 2s are a special stack-clearing trump that gives whoever played them the ability to start over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One attribute of the game you might like is that after a given round, players are ranked according to their finish in the previous round, which is something you could remember after your 15-minutes were up and then carry into the next session. This will help to string your short breaks together and make them seem like part of a larger game, and would also provide bragging rights for the person on top when the bell rings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Although typically everyone is ranked, in practice remembering only the President and the a-hole is sufficient, as they trade cards to the President's benefit before each round.) Only remembering top and bottom will also allow new players to enter and leave the game without disrupting (i.e. having to worry about) the middle of the pecking order. Any n00b can enter at the bottom and have to work their way up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T03:25:40.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-02-03T08:17:01.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of traditional card games can be learned and played pretty quickly.  I like Spades and Hearts both quite a bit, and both are very easy to learn and one hand should only take about 15 minutes or less.  Other trick taking games like Oh Hell are similar in time and difficulty to learn (excepting Bridge of course.) The advantage of Spades or Hearts over Oh Hell, for example, is that you can write down the score real fast and then get together later for another hand.  So there's some continuity there.  Hearts is also pretty flexible to more or less than 4 players, so that's a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to cut down on time, a game like Euchre or Briscola, which use a reduced size deck, can play even faster.  Both are trick taking games.  Euchre is for 4 players in partnership, traditionally.  I've played versions of Briscola for 2 up through 5 players.  All are pretty good fun and fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as mentioned in another answer, President and it's eastern cousins Big Two/Three and Beat the Landlord are also quite a bit of quick fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If trick taking and climbing games aren't your style, there's also Rummy, which is dead easy to play but lots of fun.  It does tend to take a little longer though, I find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T08:17:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-02-03T14:15:30.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Set_(card_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Set&lt;/a&gt;. Rather specific, but I like it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;UPD&lt;/b&gt; Removed luck-dependent Uno, sorry for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="759" LastEditorUserId="759" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T14:33:54.663" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T14:33:54.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-02-03T15:29:58.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whist&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played this very frequently in Brazil. It was extremely quick, easy and a LOT of fun especially for larger groups. It's incredibly strategic yet extremely simple. It's one of the best card games for larger groups in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Need&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deck of cards and about seven tokens per player; a pen and paper to note scores. The tokens can be anything; we used corn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Objective&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Win by accumulating the most amount of points by game end. Win points by getting your bets right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At game start each player receives one card. The remaining deck gets placed face down. One card is drawn from the top and placed face up. The suite of this card is now the &lt;strong&gt;trump&lt;/strong&gt; suite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each subsequent round players receive one additional card at game start. So on round two players receive two cards each; on round three players receive three cards each, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck is reshuffled for each round and a new trump card is drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highest round is seven. At seven you reverse the count, and continue back to one. The game then ends after 13 rounds have been played (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,6,5,4,3,2,1), and the scores are tallied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step One: Bet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On every round each player makes a secret bet by placing the number of tokens they wish to bet in their hand. Keep the number of tokens hidden from other players. The number of tokens bet should reflect the number of hands a player thinks will win. When all players have decided on a bet they release their tokens at the same time. It is possible to bet 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to keep the tokens used for the bet separate from the original token stash. Bets are not mixed. A player's bet remains separate from that of others. Tokens are never transfered between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step Two: Play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play commences as with any normal card game. The holder of the highest card of the first suite played wins the hand, unless someone has a trump card. Trump cards can only be used if the player has no cards of the same suit being played. If a player has neither, he plays whatever he has to no effect. If a player does have a trump card, he or she can choose not to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On rounds that have more than one hand, the winner of the hand resumes by playing the suite of their choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step Three: Score&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the round ends, which is when all cards have been played, each player tallies the number of hands they won. All players get one point for each hand they won. Those who managed to match their bet to the number of hands won receive a bonus of 10 points each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I bet two tokens and at game end I have won two hands, I receive a total of 12 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the number of tokens bet is less than the number if players, the dealer must add an one additional token to his bet. We don't often play this rule, but it is rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T15:29:58.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-03T16:08:07.220" Score="17" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8273/alexandros&quot;&gt;Alexandros&lt;/a&gt; and after a few games I found that getting a head start makes you the primary target for land-takeovers. A slow start can also cost you the game, however, and make it very difficult to catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being targeted for land takeover twice can leave you trailing so badly that it's impossible to come back. Usually, the player in second place benefits the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any strategies to mitigate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T13:46:18.303" LastActivityDate="2018-09-17T10:00:50.423" Title="What are some good strategies against land takeovers in Alexandros?" Tags="|alexandros|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2427" CreationDate="2011-02-03T19:47:22.020" Score="16" ViewCount="3178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think, sad to say, this is still a common problem in modern boardgaming.  You buy a game and it's maybe &lt;em&gt;okay&lt;/em&gt;, but then you discover that there's an expansion set that makes all the difference.  If you don't go out and buy that too, you're not really experiencing the game as it was meant to be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's in all of our interests as consumers to know which games are going to be satisfactory straight out of the box, and which have hidden costs involved.  Which games in your collection wouldn't &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; be complete without one or more of their expansions?  Obviously I don't want vague answers like &quot;Dominion is really good but Dominion with all the expansions is even better&quot;: please provide concrete explanations of the actual problems a game's base set has, and how the expansion set goes on to fix them, if possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bugbear or two of my own to tell you about, but rather than shoehorn them into the question as &quot;examples&quot;, I'll post them as an answer below!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T10:19:36.953" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:17:33.723" Title="Which boardgames need expansion sets before they work properly?" Tags="|expansions|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:02:21.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my big one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;b&gt;St Petersburg&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty good mid-range boardgame, but its basic set has some serious problems.  It contains cards which are significantly undercosted, like the cheap Observatory and the seriously overpowered Mistress of Ceremonies.  Rather than fix these cards in a new printing of the base game, they released an expansion which contains replacements for the broken cards, as well as a 5-player option, and a few dozen new cards.  The problem being that this box costs over $20 for, basically, a slim deck of tiny undersized cards!  I really like fixed St Petersburg, but my local independent game store refuses to stock the expansion for being a rip-off, and I can't really fault his reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a couple of minor quibbles for good measure.  &lt;b&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/b&gt; I love, but the basic game is a pretty simplistic thing before you add in at least Traders &amp;amp; Builders and Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals.  I guess most people buy the Carcassonne Big Box these days for value, so it isn't often a problem... but some people may buy the basic set and not realise they're not getting anywhere near the full Carcassonne experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;Agricola&lt;/b&gt; is my favourite game ever, and it's superb straight out of the box, but I have to say I find it difficult to imagine going back after experiencing the Farmers of the Moor expansion.  There are some dominant strategies in basic Agricola, like building rooms for early Family Growth, that are hard to escape from: I have friends who have gotten bored of Agricola because, in their opinion, it's too obvious what move they should take at any turn, just take the resource that the other players have allowed to build up the most.  Farmers of the Moor really does fix all of that: now that you have to pay to heat your house, building lots of wooden rooms to fill with people is no longer a no-brainer strategy.  And the Free Actions really do give the starting player an agonizing choice between getting a choice pile of resources or an extra action in the turn.  Agricola is great, but FotM just makes it near perfect in my opinion.  Of course, the cost of both boxes is going to be well into three figures of dollars... :-/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T18:52:41.537" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:52:41.537" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:02:30.370" Score="-1" ViewCount="3552" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/212/board-games-for-two-players&quot;&gt;Board games for two players&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was a serious game player (years ago - 80's &amp;amp; 90's) even playtested games for a friend's father who was a game designer at Mayfair Games and explored patenting my own game. I am a serious chess player (roughly Expert level) and was a semi-pro Magic the Gathering player back in the 1990's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I haven't played a lot of board games since the 1990's, so I missed out on the whole Settlers of Catan craze and the rise of Eurogames. I own a bunch of the newer classic games - Puerto Rico, Catan (just the base set and the Catan card game), just bought the base set of Dominion but haven't yet played it and have a bunch of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we are looking for are good, fun games my girlfriend and I can play together. She is highly competitive but not quite as serious a game player (in the past at least) as I have been. We've been playing a bunch of various games - but have found ourselves frequently playing Uno for the retro fun but frankly we'd like some better games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played Carcassonne on my iPhone and frankly don't really like it much. Catan I kinda enjoy but don't love the trading aspects. Puerto Rico frankly intimidates me a bit with how intense many people are about the game. I want to play Dominion (though the setup time &amp;amp; hassle seems slightly high - I suspect we'll enjoy it especially with the variability between games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm open to suggestions that cover a range of game styles - but ideally are relatively quick, have some degree of luck/randomness so while skill is important it isn't the only factor (i.e. while I enjoy Chess playing chess with my gf isn't likely to be a lot of fun for her though we may play sometime I've been studying chess since for literally 30+ years). We do tend to like card games - have enjoyed games like Fluxx (in small doses - though more so with larger groups) but are certainly open to non-card game suggestions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I might enjoy games with a lot of parts and long play times (I've really enjoyed playing Descent in the past and want to get the new Wizards of Coast D&amp;amp;D board games) when it is just the two of us a game with a lengthy setup time and complex rules is less likely to get played after a long day of work, dinner &amp;amp; household tasks. But a game with nearly no setup time and quick gameplay is far more likely to be played (i.e. hence our falling back on Uno so often)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T01:10:07.567" Title="What are some great 2-player games for a couple to play?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2011-02-03T20:21:21.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:07:18.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's funny that you mention Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion's base set doesn't have any problems that &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; you to buy the expansions, but the Base set is extremely weak on variation.  In my opinion, Intrigue makes a much better starting set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other expansions are optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T20:07:18.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2412" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:15:25.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this game for my wife for Valentine's Day and totally got away with it - she loves it!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not to be confused with the Lost Cities boardgame - I'm talking about the 2 player card game.  Essentially players are archaeologists setting out to discover the Lost Cities of the title.  There are 5 different Lost Cities (each of a different colour), and the deck contains cards from 2-10 in each colour, and three multiplier cards.  You can play a card to an &quot;expedition&quot; or discard one to a central pile, and then pick one up from the deck or from a central pile; the problem is, once you play a numeric card to an expedition you can no longer play a multiplier, and you can never play a lower number onto a higher one.  At the end you total the value of each expedition, subtract 20, and times by the number of multiplier cards plus one (plus there's a bonus for an impressive 8-cards+ expedition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you can lose mad points as well as gain them from starting an expedition you can't follow through with!  There's a lot of strategy for a simple game, deciding when you can afford to play, when you can afford to discard, and when you just have to cling onto cards for dear life in your hand!  A game takes only 5 minutes, and a match is meant to be best of three games.  It's got a colourful theme, attractive (oversized) cards, and quite a lot of depth for a game that's so simple to get started with: it's a real couples game in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I don't like about the game is that there's allegedly a 4 player variant - but to play it you're encouraged to buy a second copy of the base game just so you can add it about 20 duplicate cards to your deck.  Yeah, &lt;em&gt;right&lt;/em&gt;.  This fact is not a problem if you just want a game to play as a couple though, thank goodness!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T20:15:25.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2011-02-03T20:35:13.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I posted this on another question about 2-player boardgames which was closed as a duplicate.  I appreciate that someone has already suggested Lost Cities to this question, but my answer does go into some extra detail, so I hope you won't begrudge me reposting it here!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought this game for my wife for Valentine's Day and totally got away with it - she loves it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not to be confused with the Lost Cities boardgame - I'm talking about the 2 player card game. Essentially players are archaeologists setting out to discover the Lost Cities of the title. There are 5 different Lost Cities (each of a different colour), and the deck contains cards from 2-10 in each colour, and three multiplier cards. You can play a card to an &quot;expedition&quot; or discard one to a central pile, and then pick one up from the deck or from a central pile; the problem is, once you play a numeric card to an expedition you can no longer play a multiplier, and you can never play a lower number onto a higher one. At the end you total the value of each expedition, subtract 20, and times by the number of multiplier cards plus one (plus there's a bonus for an impressive 8-cards+ expedition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you can lose mad points as well as gain them from starting an expedition you can't follow through with! There's a lot of strategy for a simple game, deciding when you can afford to play, when you can afford to discard, and when you just have to cling onto cards for dear life in your hand! A game takes only 5 minutes, and a match is meant to be best of three games. It's got a colourful theme, attractive (oversized) cards, and quite a lot of depth for a game that's so simple to get started with: it's a real couples game in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I don't like about the game is that there's allegedly a 4 player variant - but to play it you're encouraged to buy a second copy of the base game just so you can add it about 20 duplicate cards to your deck. Yeah, right. This fact is not a problem if you just want a game to play as a couple though, thank goodness!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T20:35:13.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-03T22:23:40.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite games for a group of players as large as 8 is &lt;strong&gt;The Great Dalmuti&lt;/strong&gt; (by Richard Garfield before he made Magic the Gathering) which is a fantastic and quick card game for large groups (it is based on a game that can be played with regular decks of cards but Dalmuti offers some great modifications that add to the game's enjoyment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't a full on strategy game so might not be exactly what you are looking for - however there is a lot of skill and because it is a game that resolves quickly - but importantly isn't just a one winner/7 losers game but one where there is a ranking of players based on when you go out each round, it works really well for the right group to play iteratively for how ever long you want to play. It also works well when players may need to drop out for a while and/or join in later (which with large groups is pretty common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always play with the rule that the order of physical seating while playing the game is dictated by the game results - this physical movement between rounds adds a lot to the game - not to mention makes it easier to play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary - really fun, iterative, skill but with enough luck to have real swings, and easy for players to join/leave/rejoin and can be played for as long as your group wants to play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-03T23:38:35.187" LastActivityDate="2011-02-03T23:38:35.187" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:26:53.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a fan of Nuclear War. The owner of the game goes first. Always nice to provide a bennie for the person who bought your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T06:26:53.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:27:53.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't a lot of games out there with no specific turn order, but it's worth taking a look at Race For The Galaxy where for the most part everyone goes simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T06:27:53.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-02-04T06:29:40.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't help much the first time you play, but pretty standard rule whenever we play a bunch of the same game is winner goes last (assuming of course first is desirable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T06:29:40.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-04T11:01:08.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18/roborally&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RoboRally&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;RoboRally is played with 8 players and is a free-for-all capture the flag race. Each player takes control of a single robot, but must program their moves 5 turns at a time. This makes the game quite fun with a dash of chaos, as your move for turn 1 will be obvious, but you must start predicting what others will try to do in order to maneuver around in subsequent turns. There is nothing more satisfying than bumping into another player, putting them off course, and watching their carefully pre-planned moves take them into a pit or off the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-04T14:26:05.120" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T14:26:05.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-02-04T14:45:25.877" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Civilization&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really a great game, but the so-called &quot;expansion&quot; &lt;strong&gt;Advanced Civilization&lt;/strong&gt; is actually more of a &quot;revised version&quot;, which fixes things which were a bit broken, and adds some variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T14:45:25.877" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-02-04T18:02:02.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two games with proprietary cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Thanks!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ingeniously simple press-your-luck game that takes maybe 2 minutes to explain and 10 to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6 nimmt&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An odd game of continually-diminishing possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as far as games with traditional cards go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oh Hell&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great, simple, evil trick-taking game, usually for 4-7 players.  (See the Wikipedia article &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oh,_hell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ninety-Nine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David Parlett's great, deep, even more evil trick-taking game for exactly 3 players. (The Wikipedia article &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ninety-nine_%28trick-taking_card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; says 2-4 players, but it's really designed for 3.)  A full game probably can't be played in 15 minutes unless everyone knows it well, but it's a game more people should know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T18:02:02.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2011-02-04T18:41:53.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't recommend Stefan Feld's &lt;strong&gt;Roma&lt;/strong&gt; (and its sequel, &lt;strong&gt;Roma II&lt;/strong&gt;) enough.  I can't think of many two-player games that I've played more than 100 times, but I'm sure I've topped that with Roma.  First, its basic design is ingenious.  The use of dice to activate cards is quite novel, and the fixed victory-point pool is such a good idea that I can't believe other games don't use it.  Second, it's tense from the very beginning:  both players start the game losing, and sometimes you win just by keeping your opponent from repairing his position faster than you repair yours.  It has fantastically sharp gameplay.  A phrase I've used to describe it is &quot;like a knife fight in a phone booth.&quot;  You don't have very much room to move, and you really don't want to make a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also love &lt;strong&gt;Attika&lt;/strong&gt;, a game whose reputation suffered badly by its being sold as a 2-4 player game.  It's fatally flawed with 4, and not very good with 3.  With 2, it's a deep and fascinating game of positioning, resource management, and timing, with two completely different ways to win.  (If you have 4 players, divide the tiles and the cards into two sets and play two two-player games.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's &lt;strong&gt;Innovation&lt;/strong&gt;, which I think is 2010's best game.  It's pretty easy to learn its mechanics, but you'll play it a dozen times before you start getting good at it.  It's going to top 100 plays for me before long.  It's a game that you keep learning more about the more you play it.  I'm beginning to believe that every single card in the deck can be crucial in the right game - I still haven't ever thought, &quot;Oh, thank God, I drew Clothing,&quot; but I'm pretty sure that some day I will.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T18:41:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-02-04T19:58:14.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My vote is Twilight Imperium. They made a lot of changes to the base game that really improved it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2011-02-04T19:58:14.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-02-05T01:59:13.740" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, I think the point of expansions is to improve &lt;em&gt;replayability.&lt;/em&gt; Most games are fine without any expansions, but might get boring after you play them enough time. How many 'enough' is varies greatly on the game, but the approach I'll take toward the question is &lt;em&gt;what games have relatively little re-playability without expansions.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Citadels&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is one that plays fine without the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/13291/citadels-the-dark-city-expansion&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;dark city expansion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, but Dark City adds SO much new variety its hard to imagine playing without it. With just the base there's one possible set of 8 characters; with the expansion there's 256 possibilities with 8, and an extra 256 if you play with 9. There won't always be a gigantic change when you switch some characters, but there's definitely at least 20 different combination that all make the game &lt;strong&gt;completely&lt;/strong&gt; different and require a total recalibration of strategy. The later editions of the game mostly come with the Dark City expansion in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is another where the expansions add a huge amount a re-playability. The base has a significant number of different maps, but as with Citadels the expansions increase the possibilities of the island exponentially, not to mention giving some completely different strategies. Ending up with smaller surrounding islands with Seafarers will definitely change your building plans, and you'll probably think differently about your military if you have to worry about being attacked in Cities and Knights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countless more games have similar situations, like &lt;strong&gt;Dominion, Three Dragon Ante, Carcassonne, Pandemic,&lt;/strong&gt; and probably at least 200 others. IMHO any good expansion should add a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of re-playability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they satisfactory without the expansions? Definitely. Are they really complete? That's a matter of opinion. Is the Dominion base set complete because it has 3,268,760 possible kingdom sets of 10? Or is it not complete until you have at least one big expansion and 10,272,278,170 possibilities? Or 2 big expansions and 828,931,106,355 possibilities? Or all the first 4 expansions and the 3 promo cards and 6.20885664 × 10^13? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I totally agree that there are some games that aren't very good standalone. My point is that the definition of completeness if very subjective. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T18:50:22.427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:50:22.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2436" CreationDate="2011-02-05T02:33:50.060" Score="8" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Citadels: Dark City expansion the Wishing Well purple district card reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, you score one point for every &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; purple district in your city&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The italicization is actually printed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the means &quot;every purple district that is not this card&quot; or &quot;every second purple district&quot;? If you had this and 3 other purple districts at the end of the game, would you have 3 extra points or 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning toward the first one, because it seems more balanced and the second would suggest a bit more clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel really stupid but asked anyway. Does anyone think this questions is valuable enough to leave up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:35:39.590" Title="Citadels: Wishing Well card 'every other purple district' clarfication" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2435" CreationDate="2011-02-05T03:14:04.363" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was 99% sure that that must mean &quot;every purple district that is not this card&quot;, as you suspect.  But how to prove that for sure?  My first thought in such matters is to look at foreign versions of the cards.  Rules text that is ambiguous in English is sometimes much clearer when read in other languages.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't (yet) found a scan of a foreign version of Wishing Well... but this French page, (which contains a comment by Bruno Faidutti the game designer himself, so it must be fairly respectable!) seems to suggest that the text of Fontaine aux Souhaits is along the lines of &quot;autres batiments violets&quot; counting for +1; and I think you'd be hard pressed to translate that as &quot;every second purple building&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.auteursdejeux.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=707&quot;&gt;http://www.auteursdejeux.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=707&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to keep looking for card scans I guess, but I'm pretty sure we're en route to the right answer here.  (What language was Citadels first published in, does anyone know?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-05T04:16:00.537" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T04:16:00.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-05T03:19:05.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blokus.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Official site at www.blokus.com&quot;&gt;Blokus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blokus has several interesting single player puzzles listed in the rules if that's what you're looking for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding a way for four players to all get all their pieces on the board is a pretty cool challenge of analysis and spatial calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:22:29.390" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:22:29.390" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-02-05T03:19:05.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2445" CreationDate="2011-02-05T03:48:53.707" Score="7" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Revealed Cylons can choose to enact Crisis cards from Caprica. At least one of these cards - &lt;em&gt;Fulfiller of Prophecy&lt;/em&gt; - says something along these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the Activate Cylon Ships step, return to the Resolve Crisis step [Draw a new Crisis card and resolve it.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state for a Cylon player's turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are no &quot;Activate Cylon Ship&quot; and &quot;Prepare for Jump&quot; steps during a revealed Cylon player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if a revealed Cylon uses this card, do we draw a new Crisis card or not? It's obvious the Activate Cylon Ships step doesn't happen, but it's not clear whether &quot;&lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the step&quot; occurs or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T03:30:20.100" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:20:00.870" Title="Do events that occur &quot;After the Activate Cylon Ships step&quot; occur on revealed Cylon turns?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2442" CreationDate="2011-02-05T17:19:15.590" Score="17" ViewCount="5609" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my gaming group, we are looking into getting a new boardgame. We're all relative novices with boardgames but not with games in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among our options are two games that seem rather similar: Le Havre and Agricola. They're designed by the same guy and offer similar mechanics (different theme though). Even though Agricola seems more popular and has a better overall score at the BoardGameGeek, there are quite a lot of people that describe Le Havre as an upgrade to Agricola. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have watched some introductory videos and have become familiar with the basics of the rules in each one, but obviously we can't get a real feel of them until we've tried them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do the games compare with each other? We're looking for information that's not immediately obvious, such as setup time, how much fiddling with bits and other bookkeeping there is, game flow, downtime, complexity of decisions, tactics vs strategy, extent of player interaction etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; looking for subjective opinions (unless they can be backed up somewhat) or obvious things that can be observed without playing the game, such as theme, mechanics, rules etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="238" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:50:30.543" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T18:52:01.813" Title="How does Le Havre compare with Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|le-havre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2441" CreationDate="2011-02-05T17:54:23.580" Score="4" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5782/coloretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coloretto&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27588/zooloretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aquaretto&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34194/aquaretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zooloretto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some of the differences between the three? I've noticed that Coloretto is smaller and doesn't take as long to play (30min vs. 45min for the other 2). Zoo and Aqua can be combined and Coloretto seems to stand alone, but other than that I'm at a loss for which to get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any differences in gameplay between them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they have different levels of strategy, player interaction, or replayability?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other prominent differences between them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:49:56.313" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:49:56.313" Title="Coloretto vs. Aquaretto and Zooloretoo, what are the differences and how can I tell which to buy?" Tags="|zooloretto|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2440" CreationDate="2011-02-05T18:35:23.670" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coloretto is MASSIVELY different to Zooloretto and Aquaretto.  To be more specific: Coloretto is the mechanic on which the other two games are based, but to compare them is a bit like comparing, say, addition to mathematics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Coloretto, your move is either to play a card onto a pile, or pick up a pile.  Once you've done that long enough, you look at everything that all players have picked up, and then score.  In Zooloretto and Aquaretto, the piles have become &quot;trucks&quot;, and the cards have become animals, or fish.  You still have the same basic mechanic - either draw and play an animal onto a truck, or take a truck - but collecting animals is no longer the sole object.  Once you take a truck you have to place the animals in various parts of your zoo.  There are placement restrictions, bonuses for filling areas, the chance to get extra free animals by placing breeding pairs in the same enclosure.  Players can, instead of taking their normal turns, pay to buy animals from each other, swap animals between enclosures, discard excess animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, just because the central idea of Coloretto is present and correct in all three of these Michael Schacht games, comparing them is like comparing milk and cheese!  I like all of them, but Coloretto is good when you want a quick, abstract game, and the others for when you want a moderately (but not very) complex game... with cute baby pandas.  (I think it's really the cute baby pandas, much more than the mechanic, that made Zooloretto a hit in my gaming group!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: One final point.  You might assume that Zooloretto and Aquaretto are fundamentally the same game but with mammals instead of fish, but they really aren't.  They have extremely different enclosure rules, animal behaviour rules, and ways of scoring points off specific animal configurations.  Essentially they are the Coloretto mechanic taken away and used in two different boardgames.  But they are of a similar complexity level.  I felt Aquaretto was a little bit more complicated, but maybe that's just because I've played Zooloretto a lot more.  I'm told that it's possible to combine Zooloretto and Aquaretto into one mega-zoo game, which would be intimidating but definitely fun.  Our group hasn't tried it yet, but it can only be a matter of time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-05T18:57:41.480" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T18:57:41.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2439" CreationDate="2011-02-05T19:17:34.210" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Agricola (my favourite game) about a million times, and Le Havre only once so far.  But I'll give you some of my basic impressions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agricola and Le Havre are much more similar to each other than, for example, to other Uwe Rosenberg games like Bohnanza and At The Gates Of Loyang.  Both are about creating a working food engine in an environment of resource scarcity and then making whatever profit you can on top of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key differences, as I see it are these: in Agricola, the resource tiles come out in a partially randomized but largely predictable order.  Once they're out, they're not &quot;owned&quot; by any player: if you're the start player, you get first dibs, but that's all.  In Le Havre, though, the development of the game can be intimately shaped by the players, because they choose which resource spaces to buy and introduce to the game.  Who owns that space is then a consideration - you may desperately desire a resource but desperately not want to pay its owner for it!  In addition, there's quite a nice mechanic in Le Havre that means you can sit on a resource square and thus deprive other desperate players from using it - though quite often you have much more important things for your people to be doing than sitting around, of course...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes Le Havre sound much deeper and more interesting than Agricola so far, and it's true, if you're a fan of games on the Caylus end of the complexity spectrum, then Le Havre may be more appealing to you.  But of course, Agricola has some tricks of its own up its sleeve.  Le Havre is completely lacking in an analogue to Agricola's &quot;Occupation&quot; and &quot;Minor Improvement&quot; cards&quot;, which are basically hands of cards that are private to each player, and which can exert dramatic effects on the game.  Now, some people HATE these cards: because they add a big whack of randomness to the game, especially if you just deal them out and don't draft them or anything.  I personally like them: they ensure that every game of Agricola is really different, even if, yes, sometimes someone will play a busted Occupation card for their first move and it'll be a huge uphill struggle for everyone else to win for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, and please forgive me for entering into subjective territory for my final paragraph, so far I prefer Agricola because the theme and mechanics mesh more satisfactorily for me.  Assembling a &quot;food engine&quot; just seems like a more appropriate occupation for a farmer in the Dark Ages than a businessman in an industrial port!  Plus the Occupations and Improvements, with their cartoony illustrations and all, bring the world of Agricola to life with greater verve than the world of Le Havre.  And Agricola is still a fantastic little game, mechanically, if you don't mind the randomness for the card deal.  Le Havre takes a bit longer, is a bit more complex, has a bit more interaction, and has enough randomness to keep things interesting but almost certainly not enough to give any player a significant advantage through sheer &quot;luck of the draw&quot;.  I feel like Le Havre was an attempt to improve the Agricola experience for really hardcore gamers, and it does succeed!  But it's still Agricola I want to bring out all the time, saving Le Havre for special occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T19:17:34.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="725" CreationDate="2011-02-05T20:24:38.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can drop them at any time or sell them when you are at a the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The curse applies when they are equipped and the curse can be removed by dying or by buying the voodoo doll for 200 gold in the store.  It came with one of the expansions and removes 3 status marks, which includes the curse marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="849" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T21:33:46.263" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T21:33:46.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="376" CreationDate="2011-02-05T20:28:16.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the Road to Legend or Sea of Blood campaigns you can start the campaigns at the silver or gold level to make them go much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the campaigns are designed for about 20 hours per campaign level so starting at a each higher level cuts about 20 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="849" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T20:28:16.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2011-02-05T20:32:25.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was apparently put to Fantasy Flight Games and their ruling was that the current player would simply discard the Crisis card and then resolve the top card of the Crisis deck (as instructed in the parenthesis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(According to this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/398485/rule-question-revealed-cylon-caprica-and-fulfill&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/398485/rule-question-revealed-cylon-caprica-and-fulfill&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only played BSG once and I was quite drunk at the time, so I'm hesitant to unpack things any further than that, but I hope this link is enough to settle your doubts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T20:32:25.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="173" CreationDate="2011-02-05T21:02:10.937" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Descent actually has more character progression.  You gain more equipment than just guns as you advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="849" LastActivityDate="2011-02-05T21:02:10.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:09:29.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16992/tsuro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tsuro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick, fairly light game. Very quick to teach new people and can be played even with 7 year olds. Every other players turn is going to change various players' locations, so its pretty riveting and keeps everyone intent on the gameplay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T03:09:29.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-06T03:28:28.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/432/category-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Category 5&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31503/slide-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;slide 5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The games play exactly the same and have the same cards, they only &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/392223/why-are-category-5-and-6-nimtz-together-but-not-sl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vary slightly in the endgame condition&lt;/a&gt; Both well with anywhere from 4-10, and even potentially up to 12. During the game, player's choose a card from their hands and reveal them simultaneously, so there's no real conception of turns. This also means a 10 player game won't take much longer than a 6 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T22:41:20.970" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T22:41:20.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2451" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:42:20.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15987/arkham-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt; is an atmospheric, cooperative adventure game set in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cthulhu_Mythos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cthulhu Mythos&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H._P._Lovecraft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;H.P. Lovecraft&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players take on the role of investigators, seeking to uncover clues about a series of strange events taking place in the city of Arkham. Along the way they can acquire allies, skills, spells, weapons and arcane artifacts which can assist them in battles against wandering monsters. The main goal of the game is to close the portals to other dimensions which have been opening up all across the city, before the Ancient One awakens... with unpleasant consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/arkham-horror-the-card-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt; at Fantasy Flight Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Arkham Horror Wiki&lt;/a&gt; has details of all the cards/monsters/investigators/etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15987/arkham-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror has many expansions, some of which have their own tags here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharoah &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/curse-of-the-dark-pharaoh&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;curse-of-the-dark-pharaoh&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;curse-of-the-dark-pharaoh-container&quot;&gt;curse-of-the-dark-pharaoh&lt;/a&gt; - There is a second edition with a fair number of changes&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6087/what-are-the-changes-in-the-revised-edition-of-curse-of-the-dark-pharaoh&quot;&gt;What are the changes in the Revised Edition of Curse of the Dark Pharaoh?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dunwich Horror &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dunwich-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dunwich-horror&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;dunwich-horror-container&quot;&gt;dunwich-horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kingsport Horror &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/kingsport-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;kingsport-horror&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;kingsport-horror-container&quot;&gt;kingsport-horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Black Goat of the Woods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The King in Yellow &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ah-king-in-yellow&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ah-king-in-yellow&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;ah-king-in-yellow-container&quot;&gt;ah-king-in-yellow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Innsmouth Horror - &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ah-innsmouth-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ah-innsmouth-horror&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;ah-innsmouth-horror-container&quot;&gt;ah-innsmouth-horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Lurker at the Threshold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miskatonic Horror - &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ah-miskatonic-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ah-miskatonic-horror&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;ah-miskatonic-horror-container&quot;&gt;ah-miskatonic-horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror-3rd-edition&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;arkham-horror-3rd-edition&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot; aria-labelledby=&quot;arkham-horror-3rd-edition-container&quot;&gt;arkham-horror-3rd-edition&lt;/a&gt; for the 3rd edition of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-08-31T11:54:04.237" LastActivityDate="2022-08-31T11:54:04.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2452" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-06T06:42:20.610" Score="0" Body="Arkham Horror is an atmospheric, cooperative adventure game set in the Cthulhu Mythos of H.P. Lovecraft. Use this tag for questions for the second edition of the game." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="12884" LastEditDate="2022-08-31T11:54:09.737" LastActivityDate="2022-08-31T11:54:09.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2453" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-06T07:16:05.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt; (1-5 players, 2 hour playtime) is a deeply strategic farming simulation game. Starting from almost nothing, you aim to build a prosperous farm based on the efforts of your hard-working farmer and his wife. You'll need to plow and sow fields, build pastures and stables, acquire different sorts of animals, and gather natural resources. You can expand your home, upgrade its construction, and even raise children to help out on the farm. But all these people need to be fed, so you'll need to learn how to bake bread, stew carrots, roast animals, or go fishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game revolves around the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2082/worker-placement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;worker placement&lt;/a&gt; mechanic. While players do not interact directly with one another's farms, they do select actions and acquire resources from a limited communal game board, so competition for actions is fierce, and the source of much of the strategy of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full version of the game makes use of two large decks of cards - Occupations and Minor Improvements. These ensure that no two games of Agricola are alike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/3865/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;number of expansions&lt;/a&gt; available for Agricola. Some, like &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/agricola-fotm&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'agricola-fotm'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;agricola-fotm&lt;/a&gt;, add significant new mechanics that greatly increase the depth and complexity of the game. Others provide additional new cards that adjust gameplay, or provide more aesthetically pleasing gaming pieces and farming plots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful Links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/agricola.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:29:18.117" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:29:18.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2454" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-06T07:16:05.683" Score="0" Body="A man and wife, a wooden shack, and an empty field. Get to work! Agricola is a deeply strategic farming simulation game." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T07:16:05.683" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T07:16:05.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2455" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-06T15:26:18.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal of Power Grid is to have the most number of cities &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; be able to provide power to the most number of cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game has a unique system of going first -- players are ranked by how many cities they have, then their greatest-numbered power plant.  In some phases, whoever is ranked first gets to act first; in other phases, they will be last to act.  This gives the person who is ranked the lowest a chance to catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each turn, players will have the option of bidding on power plants; after the initial standard plants have been bid on, other plants will be randomly turned over each turn, with the highest-ranked person bidding first.  These plants can be either coal, oil, trash, nuclear or green plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After buying plants, starting with the lowest-ranked player, each player has the option  of buying resources for their plants.  Resources are replenished each turn, but it is possible to collectively buy more resources than will be replenished, cause the price of these resources to increase.  Resources will replenish at different rates depending on the number of players and the current phase of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once resources have been bought, starting with the lowest-ranked player, each player has the option of buying into cities by paying the cost of buying into the city plus any connection costs necessary to connect to another city of yours.  As the game progresses into later phases, more people will be able to buy into the same city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, players use resources to power their power plants, and gain money based on how many cities they can power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first person to reach a pre-determined number of cities (based on the number of players) will trigger the end-phase of the game.  Whoever can power the most number of cities once the end-phase of the game has been triggered is the winner, with excess money being the tie-breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of expansions for the game, each providing new rules and a double-sided board with a different country on each side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt; core game &lt;sup&gt;(company web site)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Central Europe/Benelux&lt;/a&gt; expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Italy/France&lt;/a&gt; expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=337&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brazil/Iberia&lt;/a&gt; expansion w/box to hold the other expansions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=276&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Korea/China&lt;/a&gt; expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=369&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Russia/Japan&lt;/a&gt; expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, a new set of power plants is available as an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;expansion deck&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T15:26:18.243" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T15:26:18.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2456" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-06T15:26:18.243" Score="0" Body="Power Grid is a strategy game from Rio Grande games for 2-6 players in which you try to build the largest network on the board, and provide power to all of the cities in your network with a variety of power plants." OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T15:26:18.243" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T15:26:18.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2457" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-06T16:58:59.107" Score="6" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends have grown to love Bohnanza for its simple rules and constant negotiations, so I've grown curious about the expansions. Here are a few of the higher ranked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/6264/bohnaparte&quot;&gt;Bohnaparte&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/12677/high-bohn-plus&quot;&gt;high-bohn plus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/4377/ladybohn&quot;&gt;ladybohn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2571/mutabohn&quot;&gt;mutabohn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot;&gt;several more here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does each one add to the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each change the strategy and gameplay?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each one change the overall feel of the game, in terms of competition, complexity, etc.?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which are your favorites and why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other differences or recommendations would be awesome. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T09:38:00.417" Title="What's the difference between the different Bohnanza expansions? How do they change the game?" Tags="|bohnanza|expansions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2463" CreationDate="2011-02-06T17:34:17.223" Score="13" ViewCount="13644" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a set of one of each card, but with blue inner border on their backs instead of beige.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-03T19:03:50.860" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T19:03:50.860" Title="What are the blue-backed cards in Dominion for?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2011-02-06T17:51:42.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are called the &lt;strong&gt;randomizer cards&lt;/strong&gt;, and they are supposed to be kept separate from all the other cards and used to select 10 random kingdom cards at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally use one of many &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theplaywrite.com/tools-and-utilities/best-dominion-random-card-picker-lets-find-out/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online deck randomizer&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my favorite)&lt;/a&gt;,  for this and just leave them in with the rest. You can cheat and try to bring them to the top of your deck when shuffling so you can draw them more quickly, but I've never played a serious enough game for this to be an issue. Also, leaving them in will make the game infinitesimally different since each kingdom pile has one more card. If you were running a tournament, you might want to leave them out for maximum fairness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T01:30:29.010" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T01:30:29.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2464" CreationDate="2011-02-06T18:13:27.173" Score="4" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the third field stay forever once you have 3 coins to buy it? If not when does it disappear? The rules aren't terribly clear (or maybe I should say &quot;are terribly clear&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-06T19:03:31.197" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T19:03:31.197" Title="How long does one get to keep the third bean field in bohnanza?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2011-02-06T18:15:34.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6/what-is-the-best-way-to-keep-everything-organized-and-spend-less-time-setting-up&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; about Dominion organization and setup has some related answers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lilserf talks about an iPhone app that helps with game setup &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6/what-is-the-best-way-to-keep-everything-organized-and-spend-less-time-setting-up/2146#2146&quot;&gt;my answer &quot;fine the way it is?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; explains how we use the randomizer cards &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you're interested in using a computer program as a randomizer, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/355/what-is-the-best-random-card-setup-tool&quot;&gt;Pat asked a question&lt;/a&gt; about which apps are the best &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T18:15:34.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2011-02-06T18:16:13.783" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blue backed cards are the &lt;strong&gt;randomizer&lt;/strong&gt; cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are listed among the contents (on page 2) and the main use is detailed on pg 5 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, the players can shuffle the&#xA;  Randomizer cards for all Kingdom cards and&#xA;  draw 10 to select the cards for the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or,&#xA;  players can take turns selecting cards.&#xA;  Players may also use the Randomizer cards&#xA;  as Placeholders to mark the card piles so&#xA;  empty piles are easily seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of folks use a random deck generator, we have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/355/what-is-the-best-random-card-setup-tool&quot;&gt;list here at B&amp;amp;CG&lt;/a&gt;.  If you use sleeves, it may be helpful to use a different color sleeve for the randomizer cards so that they catch your eye easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not add them into the piles unless you want to change the balance of the game.  There are supposed to be 10 of each card, not 11. Some game strategies revolve around depleting piles fast or unexpectedly and you would impede those by having 11 cards in each stack.  Also, since they have a different back, they will be noticeable unless you are using opaque sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T19:00:37.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2461" CreationDate="2011-02-06T18:18:01.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You keep the third bean field for the duration of the game.  It would be harsh if it was limited as it does cost you 3 gold coins (victory points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a discussion about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1573/when-should-you-avoid-a-third-bean-field-in-bohnanza&quot;&gt;when to buy or not buy that third field&lt;/a&gt;.  Due to the cost, it is not always the right thing to do to purchase the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T18:35:46.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2457" CreationDate="2011-02-06T18:46:36.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer your question in its fullness, as the only one of these expansions I have played is Bohnaparte, and it was once and a couple of years ago!  But I can tell you what my impressions of that were...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bohnaparte constitutes a pretty drastic reworking of the Bohnanza game (to use a topical example, it's on a par with how Zooloretto expands on Coloretto).  Instead of a simple bean-farming game, you are now playing a Napoleonic wargame!  Albeit a simple, cartoonish one.  You lay out a map with areas of varying strategic import, and you now have to conquer it with your bean-troops, as well as growing beans in the usual way to maintain your economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time, I wasn't really a fan.  It didn't seem to me like a particularly deep wargame, or a particularly logical extension to the Bohnanza theme.  However, I do recall some nice mechanics: I believe the &quot;valuable&quot; beans (like Red) are weak in combat compared to the &quot;common&quot; beans (like Blue) - so it was a lot less clear which were the best beans: do you put a premium on combat or economic profit?  On the minus side, I remember the scoreline of our game being very close, and the result being basically decided on one player getting an extra turn over me due to the vagaries of the seating order.  That is probably true to the spirit of the original Bohnanza, I guess, but I remember being quite miffed at the time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess if you play a whole lot of Bohnanza, to the point where you're getting jaded, Bohnaparte will certainly inject fresh interest into proceedings!  But I did think it was more of a novelty expansion than a must-purchase.  Unless your two favourite things in the world are the Napoleonic era and Bohnanza.  Then you should almost certainly buy it without delay!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-06T18:46:36.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-06T20:12:45.233" Score="5" ViewCount="4131" Body="&lt;p&gt;What information do you gain when another player discards a tile apart from seeing which tile it is? In particular from the position from which the tile is discarded. I neglect the timing side-channel in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sort your tiles, but no good player will do that, since it increases the information your opponents gain while giving you no advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand the rules at &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong-europe.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mahjong-europe.org&lt;/a&gt; you can't regularly shuffle the tiles. In particular not between taking and discarding a tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this I conclude you can find out in which turn the discarded tile was drawn(all initial tiles count as a single turn), but nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct, or did I miss a way to gain additional information, or hide information about when the discarded tile was drawn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2011-02-08T08:43:18.670" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T20:25:19.133" Title="Information gain from discarded tiles in Mahjong" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2512" CreationDate="2011-02-06T22:15:16.150" Score="68" ViewCount="11242" Body="&lt;p&gt;If player A reaches 10 victory points on his turn but forgets to count, and immediately after his turn, the following player, player B, also reaches 10 victory points and claims victory, does player A have any grounds to be considered a winner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It recently happened when a player reached 10 victory points but forgot to count and claim victory. The player whose turn is immediately after also reached 10 victory on her turn and claimed victory. Only after player B counted her victory points it was also determined that player A had already reached 10 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is the rightful winner in that situation? Can the true winner be objectively determined based on anything in the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="20671" LastEditDate="2018-04-22T05:38:48.383" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T05:38:48.383" Title="Does a player win Catan if they forget to count their points?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-07T01:08:39.637" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;If you have 10 or more victory points during your turn the game ends and you are the winner! If you reach 10 points when it is not your turn, the game continues until any player (including you) has 10 points on his turn.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really find any way of interpreting this as reading &quot;if you have 10 or more victory points during your turn you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; claim the victory&quot;.  If at any point it was your turn and you had 10 victory points before anyone else did, you were objectively the winner, and the game should have stopped at once.  Sure, you've been really annoying in allowing the other players to labour on under false hopes, and deserve a slap, but in my opinion you cannot be said to have forfeited your rights to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mollify the other player, I'd tell them that at least your doziness allowed the objective determination of second place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T01:08:39.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-07T01:08:56.547" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your question is different than &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1505/rules-question-settlers-of-catan-traders-and-barbarians-expansion&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, the answer is the same.  The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have 10 or more victory points during your turn the game ends and you are the winner! If you reach 10 points when it is not your turn, the game continues until any player (including you) has 10 points on his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though your opponent reached 10 points on their turn, you technically had 10 points first during your turn, and are the winner since the game should have immediately ended there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why I always count how many victory points everyone has on the table -- barring victory point cards in players hands, it should be pretty obvious where everyone is VP-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, you probably want to keep a close eye on your VP total though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T01:08:56.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2458" CreationDate="2011-02-07T04:00:51.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They were primarily intended to be used for randomizing, but most people use some sort of application for that. However, as is suggested in the rules, they can also be used as placeholders to indicate depleted stacks. This can be useful, as it's easy to lose track of how many stacks have been used up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T04:00:51.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-07T05:14:04.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some further reading it appears that the Almanac adds further information and ambiguity, so it's worth noting; filed under &lt;em&gt;E&lt;/em&gt; with a title of &lt;em&gt;Ending the Game&lt;/em&gt; it reads the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have--or reach--10 victory points on your turn, the game ends immediately and you win. You can only win during your turn. If somehow you find you have 10 victory points during another player's turn, you must wait until your next turn to claim victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial line states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have--or reach--10 victory points on your turn, the game ends immediately and you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could interpret this in the following manner: The turn that followed player A's turn--where player B won--was illegal, and should not have happened. This is because player A reached 10 points first; the game should have ended immediately. The rules do not state you must &quot;claim&quot; or &quot;declare&quot; that you have 10 victory points. Thus the game should have ended immediately and any further turns were illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Almanac goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can only win during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could interpret this as one can not win if it is not one's turn; thus player A missed the opportunity to win as his turn had passed. However, I think this reasoning is invalid in this context since it is written to address other circumstances where one may find they have inadvertently reached 10 victory points, and must wait until it's their turn to claim victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is one such scenario given by &lt;em&gt;thesunneversets&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;supposing one of the players has Longest Road or Largest Army, but suddenly realises his bus is leaving in 5 minutes. The rest of the players agree to carry on. Suddenly you notice that if the other guy packs it in, YOU will have Longest Road and that will take you to 10 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Almanac goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If somehow you find you have 10 victory points during another player's turn, you must wait until your next turn to claim victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sentence also falls under that aforementioned reasoning where, inadvertently a player could find themselves with 10 victory points out of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone describe other scenarios where this could happen in the original game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given my interpretation, I would argue that player A should stand to win as any subsequent turns after a player had reached 10 victory points are illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T06:29:34.193" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T06:29:34.193" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2482" CreationDate="2011-02-07T11:16:54.207" Score="5" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are rare cases in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elfenland&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elfenland&lt;/a&gt;, where it is not possible to move away from a certain place for the whole remaining game. E.g. if you are in the desert city and you have no transportation cards for desert terrain. As you cannot play some cards, they never get exchanged.&#xA;It seems not to be described in the manual. What would you do? Exchange the players cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="534" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T13:40:03.817" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T16:31:33.640" Title="What to do in &quot;Elfenland&quot;, if stuck in the desert" Tags="|elfenland|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:43:59.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/508/blue-max&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Max&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Works well with anywhere from 2-21 according to BGG. You're constantly fighting the other players as you skillfully maneuver your various planes, so you need to keep an eye on as many people as possible to be successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T13:43:59.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-07T13:47:32.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24068/shadow-hunters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadow Hunters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of like Werewolf as everyone's secretly assigned a role and trying to survive without being killed by the other players, but a bit more involved as there's more character abilities and special items. Very player flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T13:47:32.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2476" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:20:14.370" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T15:20:14.370" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T15:20:14.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2477" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:20:14.370" Score="0" Body="Puzzle Strike is a deck-building game published by Sirlin Games that uses chips instead of cards and simulates a Puzzle Fighter-like video game." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-02-07T15:20:14.370" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T15:20:14.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2478" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:23:01.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battlestar Galactica is a 3-6 player game based on the Sci-Fi TV series, published by Fantasy Flight Games.  It is a mostly cooperative game featuring a &quot;hidden traitor&quot; mechanic.  Players select characters and work together to save humanity, but some portion of them are secretly Cylons, evil robots bent on destruction. (Playtime: about 3 hours.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three expansions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pegasus&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pegasus&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pegasus&lt;/a&gt; (Includes support for an additional Cylon leader player, the Pegasus board, New Caprica, and other additions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/exodus&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;exodus&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;exodus&lt;/a&gt; (Includes the Cylon fleet board, trauma, allies, and other additions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/daybreak&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;daybreak&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;daybreak&lt;/a&gt; (Includes mutiny, missions, two location boards, and other additions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:34:13.503" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:34:13.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2479" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:23:01.733" Score="0" Body="Battlestar Galactica is a 3-6 player game based on the Sci-Fi TV series, published by Fantasy Flight Games.  It is a mostly cooperative game featuring a &quot;hidden traitor&quot; mechanic.  Players select characters and work together to save humanity, but some portion of them are secretly Cylons, evil robots bent on destruction. (Playtime: about 3 hours.)" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T01:02:51.063" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T01:02:51.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2480" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:26:31.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/strong&gt; is a game where create a map of medieval countryside one tile at a time, scoring points by completing cities, roads, and other features. It is published by Hans im Glück and Rio Grande Games. 2-5 players, 30-45 minute playtime. It won the Spiel des Jahres prize in 2001.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several expansions for Carcassonne (ie. playing up to 6 player, new tiles, monsters, princesses, trading and so on...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansions&lt;/strong&gt; (that have tags here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/carcassonne-catapult&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;carcassonne-catapult&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;carcassonne-catapult&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/carcassonne-the-river&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;carcassonne-the-river&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;carcassonne-the-river&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/carcassonne-new-world&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;carcassonne-new-world&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;carcassonne-new-world&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Editions:&lt;/strong&gt; There have been 3 editions of the rules since the game was released.  We have several posts detailing the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7/there-seem-to-be-several-different-scoring-systems-for-fields-cities-in-carcasso&quot;&gt;There seem to be several different scoring systems for fields/cities in Carcassonne -- which is correct?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7437/how-is-game-feel-and-strategy-different-between-the-1st-and-3rd-edition-scoring&quot;&gt;How is game feel and strategy different between the 1st and 3rd edition scoring rules?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T13:01:59.543" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T13:01:59.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2481" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-07T15:26:31.183" Score="0" Body="Carcassonne is a game where create a map of medieval countryside one tile at a time, scoring points by completing cities, roads, and other features. It is published by Hans im Glück and Rio Grande Games. 2-5 players, 30-45 minute playtime." OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T00:32:20.213" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T00:32:20.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2473" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:31:33.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you playing with the Caravan rules?  From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player cannot play the Travel&#xA;  Card(s) required by the type of&#xA;  transportation, he can play any three&#xA;  Travel Cards (including Raft Travel&#xA;  Cards) instead. This move is called a&#xA;  “Caravan”. “Caravans” only move on&#xA;  roads that provide a type of&#xA;  transportation. Caravans do not travel&#xA;  on rivers and lakes. If there is an&#xA;  Obstacle on the road, the player must&#xA;  play any four instead of three Travel&#xA;  Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, Elfenroads did NOT have this rule, making it easier to get stranded.  Apparently some people hate the Caravan rule because it means players don't have to be supremely careful not to get themselves stuck any more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T16:31:33.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2485" CreationDate="2011-02-07T16:57:30.060" Score="7" ViewCount="3490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find official tournament and league rules for Dominion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T18:12:20.503" Title="Tournament and League Rules For Dominion" Tags="|dominion|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-07T17:57:33.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm of a somewhat different opinion. &#xA;The interpretation of the Almanac rule entry under ending the game seems to hinge on two key sentences: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alpha&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;If you have 10 or more victory points during your turn the game ends and you are the winner! If you reach 10 points when it is not your turn, the game continues until any player (including you) has 10 points on his turn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beta&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;If somehow you find you have 10 victory points during another player's turn, you must wait until your next turn to claim victory.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Alpha&lt;/strong&gt; above, the meaning seems to support the view that indeed, the game &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt; ended on player A's term (per the original post/question). This seems to be Mohamad's interpretation in declaring player B's turn an &quot;illegal&quot; turn. Indeed, were there some neutral, omniscient 3rd party (e.g. perhaps on a webbased game), victory would be determined by proxy immediately any player has 10 points on their turn, through some basic boolean calculation. No next turn would arise and there would be no potential for this mishap or oversight to occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the reality (not hypothetical) of playing a face-to-face strategy game, is that one is responsible for declaring when one has won. e.g. The rules of Monopoly state that when a player goes around &quot;go&quot;, they collect 200. In an automated version of the game, one's bank account may increase by 200 automatically upon passing go. However, in most competitive games, one must remember to actually claim that 200, or once the turn passes to the next player, your &quot;right&quot; to the 200 (per the rules) is often forfeited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when one buys a lottery ticket, one must choose the winning lottery numbers to win. However, while a person may take personal satisfaction from their ability to foresee winning numbers, they are not in fact rewarded for this if they fail to actually claim the winning numbers. In such a scenario, they would have picked the winning numbers (analagously, been the first to 10 points), but do not win the lottery (receive no reward for doing so) because they did not claim their win (analagously, person A did not in claim his win, and so the game did not &lt;em&gt;in fact&lt;/em&gt; end - though, per the rules, it &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt;).     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of person A's miscalculation/oversight, the game did not &lt;em&gt;in fact&lt;/em&gt; end. As person A seems to have handed the dice to person B and passed the turn onto B, the game &lt;em&gt;in fact&lt;/em&gt; continued. In the absence of an omniscient, neutral, rule enforcer, the onus must be on the player to declare that they have won. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the robber. If on Person X's turn, person X rolled 7, but moved the robber, but &quot;forgot&quot; to rob an opponent, and then passed his turn on to Person Y, it would seem that despite the rules clearly stating that when a person rolls 7 they must move the robber AND take a card from an opponent of their choice, person X through his own oversight, allowed the game to continue and therby forfeited his &quot;right&quot; to the card theft. Of course, if playing with lenient friends, one might expect them to allow one to fulfill that turn, however, play having moved on, there would be no obligation on the remaining players to allow him to return back to his turn and do what he &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt; done, per the rules, on his turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, by failing to bring an end to the game when he had 10 points, person A ignored the rules through his own oversight. The game &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt; ended - just as person X, in the example above, &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt; robbed a card from an opponent of his choice. &lt;strong&gt;In the absence of a neutral, omniscient, rule-enforcer, the onus is on each player to remember to claim his rights.&lt;/strong&gt; By failing to end the game on his turn, person A allowed the game to continue. Person B's turn can not then be rendered illegal as a result of Person A's oversight. Similarly, if person Y (following person X's failure to rob his card) was then to use a card to buy a development card, or build a settlement etc, person X could not then say &quot;oh wait - i forgot to rob you on my turn, so take back your settlement and let me do what I &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt; done on my turn, per the rules&quot;. That would require great leniency and tolerance! Person B should not be punished for Person A's oversight and consequent failure to follow the rules, and end the game on, just as Person Y can not be expected to reverse his turn to allow Person X such a great advantage that he forfeited through his own carelessness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having allowed the game to continue to Person B's turn, Person A finds himself now in the condition described by &lt;strong&gt;Beta&lt;/strong&gt; above: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beta&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;If somehow you find you have 10 victory points during another player's turn, you must wait until your next turn to claim victory.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now certainly there are multiple ways to find yourself in this situation. (e.g. someone builds a settlement inbetween an opponent's longest route and you now have the longest routes and suddenly have 10 points!). And in some of the expansions, indeed, there are other ways to earn points out of turn. This does not change the fact that person A is also now in this situation. And the rules are clear on what Person A's options are: he must wait until his next turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, it seems person A is unfortunately, simply out of luck. The game continued as a result of his own oversight, and as such, he has no claim to the victory as although the game &lt;em&gt;should have&lt;/em&gt; ended, &lt;strong&gt;in the absence of a neutral, omniscient, rule-enforcer&lt;/strong&gt;, the onus to end the game was on him. He neglected to do so, and thus, the game did not &lt;em&gt;in fact&lt;/em&gt; end. His turn passed, and person B declared victory. Any other conclusion would require retroactive enforcement of rules, just as person X would wish he could retroactively steal a card as he was entitled to do on his turn when he rolled a 7. Alas, such a request would require the leniency of their opponents, and such leniency can not be compelled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moral of the story: one needs to pay attention! Forgetfulness and inattention to detail are very costly in all strategy games and Settlers of Catan is no exception!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="856" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T17:57:33.643" CommentCount="25" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2483" CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:12:20.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are intentionally no official tournament rules for Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/457599/discussion-on-a-universal-tournament-format-for-do/page/1&quot;&gt;long, meandering discussion of tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; for Dominion on BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was pretty happy with the tournament rules used for Dominion at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbook/dompge.htm&quot;&gt;2010 World Boardgaming Championship.&lt;/a&gt;  Two things that it got right were&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An emphasis on game &lt;b&gt;placement&lt;/b&gt; rather than points per game to determine advancers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing two games per round and &lt;b&gt;reversing&lt;/b&gt; seating order between games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But don't expect anything near consensus on the best tournament rules for Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T18:12:20.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2440" CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:39:11.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As thesunneversets answered, Coloretto just uses the same basic mechanic, it's utterly different and incompatible with the other two games, and really shouldn't be associated with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm adding an answer to note that Zooloretto and Aquaretto can be played together as one larger game, and the combination makes for a really great, much more strategic game that takes about 90 minutes. It's by far my favorite way to play, and I was fortunate enough to be taught it by the designer himself, who did a good job of explaining the greater depth imbued by the pairing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T18:39:11.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2493" CreationDate="2011-02-07T18:57:25.833" Score="5" ViewCount="1713" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I get a good cheap set of blank cards? Amazon sells them, but it is apparently difficult to get a pen to work on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case I ask because I like bohnanza, but can't tolerate the illustrations. Others may have other uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T03:01:47.340" LastActivityDate="2018-03-07T11:05:30.867" Title="Best set of blank cards" Tags="|playing-cards|do-it-yourself|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-03-07T14:48:42.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-07T20:30:54.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40237/long-shot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Long Shot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horse racing game for 3-8 players, good amount of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-07T20:30:54.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-07T21:07:00.530" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote Mayfair Games and asked them for clarification. Their response was as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Rules Guru (rules &lt;em&gt;/at/&lt;/em&gt; mayfairgames.com) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can only declare a victory on your turn.  If player A has 10 pts visible on the board then he wins(kind of like poker “cards on table call”), if player A had VP cards and did not turn them over to declare victory on his turn, then he lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means player A, even if he forgot to end the game on his turn, should win. However, in the context of this particular case, player A only reached 10 points by indeed drawing a Victory Point Card, which he failed to declare. Therefore player B won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote back to clarify this point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Based on your answer, I would stand to reason that if player A had 10 points showing on the board, but forgot to declare victory, then player B declared victory, player A would still win (even though it's no longer his turn). This makes the line &quot;you can only declare victory on your turn&quot; not entirely accurate, unless we acknowledge that declaring victory does not automatically make you winner as this would have been the case had player A had 10 points on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To which I received the following response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes it is accurate.  If you’re playing you should know your point total, I guarantee most people playing with you know it.  If you build and achieve 10 on the board most people will say good game you win, even if you didn’t notice.  In a friendly game that is how it is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T21:22:24.653" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T21:22:24.653" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2011-02-08T01:06:16.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was poking around the other day looking for the same answer. &lt;a href=&quot;http://plaincards.com/&quot;&gt;Plaincards.com&lt;/a&gt; sells software to design your own cards and blank cards to print your designs on. Seems pretty cool, but it looks like you're limited to standard playing card sizes (i.e. no tiny Arkham cards). Their complete product line appears &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaincards.com/Store/shopdisplaycategories.asp&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure what size cards Bohnanza uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm in the midst of designing my own game but I need different sized cards (1.5&quot; by 2.5&quot;) so their apparent lack of that size is kind of a deal breaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.delanoservice.com/default.asp&quot;&gt;DeLano Service&lt;/a&gt; is another site that could get cards made. Sounds to be a bit more fancy that what you're looking for, perhaps more like a prototype company that an supplier of blank cards, but perhaps they'd sell blank cards if asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I have no affiliation with either site.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T01:06:16.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2495" CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:17:32.927" Score="4" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't even do the solo game without a question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just opened and punched Castle Ravenloft.  Running the intro solo adventure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place Strahd's Crypt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put your hero anywhere on the tile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put my Hero right on the edge of the crypt.  After all, the further he can get from Strahd the better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turn order is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hero phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exploration phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Villain phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it appears that during my first turn, I have a 4x3 area on Strahd's Crypt to explore.  (There is nothing there).  I can find no rules on placing new tiles during your hero phase so I don't believe my hero can move off the tile edge and needs to wait for the exploration phase to place a tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this interpretation correct?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I feel like I have to be missing something here.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T05:22:38.730" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T05:22:38.730" Title="Starting on a tile edge" Tags="|castle-ravenloft|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2494" CreationDate="2011-02-08T04:33:07.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is correct.  Tiles are normally placed during the exploration phase.  I haven't found a time when they are placed any other time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this scenario, the first turn is, basically, &quot;skip your hero phase&quot;, then explore, battle monsters and possibly deal with an encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T04:33:07.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2011-02-08T15:00:23.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not a particularly cheap solution, you could use a service like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/Card/Multi-purpose-Cards-Rectangle-394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Artscow&lt;/a&gt; to print off this redesign of Bohnanza:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/239278/bohnanza-redesign-for-the-uppish-and-the-posh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/239278/bohnanza-redesign-for-the-uppish-and-the-posh&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-02-08T15:00:23.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2501" CreationDate="2011-02-09T01:51:15.013" Score="24" ViewCount="3158" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some reason, I agreed to play Risk with my wife and her friend the other night, and we decided to try the Mission cards in Risk because no one wanted to go for global domination.  I would soon be reminded why I don't play this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the mission cards states &quot;Control two islands&quot;.  While there is nothing in the rules that states what exactly is an &quot;island&quot;, to me, islands would be any of the following countries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great Britain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iceland&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greenland&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indonesia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Guinea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Madagascar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Japan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, our friend also claimed Australia was an island, albeit a &quot;very big island&quot;.  Pulling up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Is_Australia_an_island_or_continent_or_both&quot;&gt;Wiki Answers&lt;/a&gt; article as well as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australia#Geography_and_climate&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; article state that Australia is a technically a continent and not an island, partly due to being on its own tectonic plate.  The Wikipedia article does mention that Australia has been dubbed the &quot;island continent&quot;, which was enough to give our lawyer friend something to hold on to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring common sense, are there any rulings as to which countries count for the mission card?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T02:38:53.810" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:35:11.430" Title="Missions in Risk -- is Australia really an island?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2498" CreationDate="2011-02-09T02:07:53.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within this context, I would define an island as a territory which is completely surrounded by water. By this definition Australia would not be an island, since in the game it's divided into two territories. That said, from a mechanical standpoint there's no difference between an island and a landlocked territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:35:11.430" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:35:11.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2498" CreationDate="2011-02-09T06:59:24.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consulting &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_%28game%29#Secret_Mission&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, I see that the Secret Missions have been changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I cannot find a full list of the newer mission cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the old cards, there are several of the form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;capture Europe, Australia and one other continent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;capture Europe, South America and one other continent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;capture North America and Africa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;capture Asia and South America&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;capture North America and Australia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your set of mission cards contain missions worded similarly then I think most reasonable people would grant you that &lt;strong&gt;Australia is a continent and therefore not an island&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T06:59:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2498" CreationDate="2011-02-09T09:14:16.883" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Australia is not an island.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the 2003 edition define an island as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A mission may require you to control an island. An island is a territory completely surrounded by water and only connected to other territories by sea-lines, for example Indonesia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See page 18 of the rules here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Risk_2003.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Risk_2003.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T09:14:16.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-09T11:11:15.537" Score="10" ViewCount="1717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like Scrabble for learning a foreign language or enriching my vocabulary in my native language. What other games also help you do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please submit one game per answer only - that works best with voting. If you want to submit multiple games, just leave multiple answers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="733" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T21:22:26.693" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T11:52:59.977" Title="Games to learn a foreign language or to enrich your vocabulary in your native language?" Tags="|recommendations|teaching|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:19:33.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-02-09T11:49:59.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00074FYAA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In a Pickle&lt;/a&gt; (English). For up to six players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PN1rh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can a giraffe fit in a phone booth? Does a sofa fit in a shopping cart? It all depends on how you size it up in this game of creative thinking and outrageous scenarios. Try to win a set of cards by fitting smaller things into bigger things — there's some juice in a pickle, in a supermarket, in a parking lot. Play the fourth word card to claim the set, unless one of your opponents can trump with a larger word. The player with the most sets at the end is the &lt;em&gt;big&lt;/em&gt; winner! Includes 300 cards and instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can tell from personal experience that the game is quite fun, for native and non-native speakers alike. It encourages thinking outside the box, re-interpreting words and defending your interpretation. Someone puts a president in a jam, but then someone else puts that jam in a glass. Or someone plays the card with the word &quot;universe&quot;, thinking that no one can beat that, but then the next person plays the card with the word &quot;dictionary&quot; and wins the set (after all, &quot;universe&quot; is a word &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; a dictionary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T11:52:59.977" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T11:52:59.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-02-09T14:02:43.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spellengek.nl/index.php/gameController/review/quizzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quizzle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a board game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spellengek.nl/index.php/gameController/review/quizzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quizzle&lt;/a&gt; in Dutch. I couldn't find the English name - I'm not sure it even exists in English. The idea is, every player has an 8x8 square board in front of them and places letters and &quot;black squares&quot; on it; players take turns selecting one or multiple letters that they can use, and then every player has to use a copy of that letter on their board. This yields a crossword-like arrangement on every player's board. At the end of the game, you get points for every horizontally or vertically oriented valid Dutch word delimited by either the edge of the board or the black squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2011-02-09T14:13:49.640" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T14:13:49.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-02-09T14:13:16.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fictionary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fictionary&lt;/a&gt; (Balderdash)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fictionary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fictionary&lt;/a&gt; by wikipedia, variations of which are known as Balderdash and under several other names. In it, one player selects a very uncommon word from a dictionary and tells the other players what the word is. It should be a word that none of the other players know the meaning of. Then the player that picked the word writes the dictionary definition on a small piece of paper, and the other players all try to come up with a definition of the word that sounds plausible and also write these definitions on pieces of paper. These pieces of paper are then shuffled by the first player and read in random order. All of the other players select which meaning of the word they find the most plausible (but they are not allowed to select their own invention). Once everyone has made their selection, these selections are revealed. Every player (other than the first player) gets a point if their definition was selected by another player or if they selected the correct definition. Then it is the next player's turn to pick a word from the dictionary, and the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best part of the game is the insane word definitions that you sometimes can't resist writing down, even though you know they will not attract any votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T14:13:16.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2206" CreationDate="2011-02-09T16:46:00.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I personally feel as if there could be a strong argument for switching the way that Longest Route works. After all, you already get lots of points for building the efficient 5- and 6-length routes that are the bread and butter of winning the Longest Route bonus. Wouldn't there be a more interesting tension in the game if building lots of inefficient, low-scoring routes was what lined you up for the bonus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is precisely why all of the TtR versions after the first don't use the Longest Route mechanism, and at least two use exactly the method you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="451" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T16:46:00.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-02-09T19:47:07.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Quiddler&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toycrossing.com/quiddler/basic-rules.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.toycrossing.com/quiddler/basic-rules.shtml&lt;/a&gt; (follow the link to see the rules) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is &quot;a cross between Scrabble and Rummy&quot; that might suit your needs - it's just a deck of cards with letters on really, so you could probably make your own if you needed to, and it'd be good for playing on trains too! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoyed it the few times I played it, though it suffers from all the same problems as Scrabble: one player with a phenomenal vocabulary can easily outmatch the rest of table; plus you will definitely need a good dictionary on hand to resolve disputes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T19:47:07.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:13:54.297" Score="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The True Winner is player A&lt;/strong&gt;.  The first player to obtain 10 points on his or her turn is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4616-victory-conditions-what-if-someone-has-reached-required-number-victory-points-for-win&quot;&gt;online FAQ about this situation&lt;/a&gt; at catan.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game ends as soon as a player has reached the required number of victory points on his turn. If he’s unaware of it, you should tell him, because you can’t take an already gained victory away from him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This means my earlier comments to the contrary are WRONG&lt;/strong&gt;, please ignore them as the rantings of a madman. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T10:04:24.810" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T10:04:24.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2011-02-09T21:58:10.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone introduced us to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/a&gt; the other day.  Easy to learn entertaining race against the system to recover items then escape as the waters rise and tiles disappear.  Not without some flaws though: our first game was over in failure almost as soon as it began due to some unlucky turn-ups, and sometimes it's so obvious what each player/character needs to do the game feels like it's running on rails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="871" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T21:58:10.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2516" CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:11:00.747" Score="5" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several cards beef up monsters (such as &quot;...with Eyes In the Back of Its Head&quot;).  These cards do not say &quot;Play at any time&quot; on them, so according to my reading of the rules they should only be playable during your own turn, but people I've played with claim you can play them when a opponent is facing a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T22:56:57.197" Title="When are you allowed to play monster boosters in Munchkin Quest?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:52:45.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the side bar entitled, &quot;Non-Helpers in Combat&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/munchkinquest/munchkinquest_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page 10 of the rules&lt;/a&gt; for the explanation of when you can play monster boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play a Monster Enhancer on one of the monsters in the&#xA;  fight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can play these at any time, not just during combat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T22:52:45.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2514" CreationDate="2011-02-09T22:56:57.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Pat I think, but it was a different section of the rules that caught my eye:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Certain cards, called monster&#xA;  enhancers, raise or lower the combat&#xA;  strength of individual monsters. (Yes,&#xA;  you can have a negative enhancement.)&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Monster enhancers may be played by any&#xA;  player during any combat.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if we're looking at the same version of the rules or different ones, but the general facts of the case seem clear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T22:56:57.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-02-09T23:41:17.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27225/bananagrams&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bananagrams&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it may be too similar to Scrabble, as an answer to your question, in Bananagrams your playing a more or less solo scrabble board. Playing tiles to make words in a &quot;crossword&quot;/Scrabble pattern.  When playing with others, there's a speed feel because when a player uses up their last tile, they yell &quot;peel!&quot; and everyone else is forced to take another tile and added it to their pile of tiles.  It's pretty enjoyable. I've rarely seen a game won by someone making a come back, once you're beating everyone a win is almost guaranteed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2011-02-09T23:41:17.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="617" CreationDate="2011-02-10T02:33:43.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 5 player game, if the 2nd player gets coffee, they may take prospector and then builder on the next round and build a coffee roaster as their first building. It can work out well for them, since the player will be able to trade coffee unblocked for several rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="874" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T15:43:23.923" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T15:43:23.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2530" CreationDate="2011-02-10T16:57:16.833" Score="5" ViewCount="1090" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bohnanza &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohnanza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is a card game where the goal for the player is to plant the maximum of beans in its two fields. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the first step of a player's turn, it is possible to play the two first cards of his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to plant the two cards in the same field in order to get rid of these two cards without touching the second field ?&#xA;(I mean, you plant the first bean in the field that you harvest immediately to be able to plant another type of bean in it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="289" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-10T17:23:29.383" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T20:18:36.573" Title="Is it possible to play two cards in the same field on the first step of a turn in Bohnanza ?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2524" CreationDate="2011-02-10T17:09:40.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It certainly is possible.  The cardinal rule of Bohnanza planting is &quot;you must plant your first card, you may plant your second card&quot;.  The only restriction on those two plantings is that they must both be legal.  And you can harvest at any time, even for no profit, even between one planting in the first step and the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially I misread your question and answered as if you were asking &quot;is it possible to play two cards of the same type in the same field in the first step of the first turn&quot;, which of course it is.  Simply because it would be totally bizarre to overplant in the same field.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Someone will doubtless correct me if I'm wrong, but I think there's &lt;strong&gt;no possible advantage&lt;/strong&gt; to keeping the second bean field free in this way in the first turn.  If you plant and then overplant, and then turn up two copies of the bean that is now in the discard pile, or someone (mystifyingly) wants to give you three free copies of the bean in the discard pile, then you have presumably lost out!  The absolute worst case scenario is that you will have to overplant the first bean field later in your first turn, or in your second turn, but that's not actually a very bad scenario at all: you lost nothing by letting the bean hang around in your field for a short time, while you were considering your options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on, it's possible to rapidly plant and overplant to cycle through your beans.  Just remember that you can &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; plant over a single bean if you have another field planted with multiple beans!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-02-10T20:18:36.573" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T20:18:36.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2524" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:52:35.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may plant both beans in the same field on any turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_36_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state that during step one you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Must&lt;/strong&gt; plant the first bean&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it matches a currently planted bean then plant the new bean there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have an empty field plant it there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise you must harvest and sell all beans in one field before planting the new bean in the newly empty field&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; plant the second bean using the same rules as the first bean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When planting the second bean, it is legal to harvest and sell the bean you just planted.  It's often a very good move to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T18:52:35.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1978" CreationDate="2011-02-10T18:55:32.537" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: this is an old answer.  I now recommend a 10% increment rule: any new bid must be at least 10% higher than current high bid. This is simple and enough to keep the bidding from dragging on and on. Been playing this way with my sons and need to help my 1st grader by announcing the next allowable bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The house rule I have come up with is that the minimum bid increment must be:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;1. At least 1% of the current bid (round up) AND&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;2. At least 50% of previous bid increment.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Here is an example aution of a railroad under these rules&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;A: $100 &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;B: $101 (minimum based on #1)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;C: $103 (minimum based on #1)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;A: $203 delta $100&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;C: $253 delta  $50 (minimum based on #2)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;A: $280 delta  $27 &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;C: $294 delta  $14 (minimum based on #2)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;A: $301 delta   $7 (minimum based on #2)&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2020-04-23T05:03:58.847" LastActivityDate="2020-04-23T05:03:58.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1978" CreationDate="2011-02-10T20:25:39.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have played with a minimum 1st bid of 1/4 the price of the property (to vary with property value, but to allow for unchallenged bids to be profitable from immediately mortgaging; this puts upward pressure on the 2nd bid, pushing it towards the mortgage price). Incremental bids are then at least the no-house rent amount (and so also varies with property value). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="856" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T20:25:39.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:24:00.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Poker&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some may object to a gambling game, but it's easy enough to just give everyone 5K or 10K in chips and play tournament style for the points. Or you could play candy poker: split a big bag of miniature chocolates up to use as chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Omaha Hold 'Em is a very exciting game that can play up to 11 (5 table cards, 3 burn cards, and 4 to a person, deals out the whole deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Texas Hold 'Em is quite strategic and popular as well, and can actually seat up to 22 people.  Mind you a 22 person Texas Hold 'Em game would be quite random and hard to follow, but you could do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T21:24:00.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2011-02-10T21:52:11.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I usually tell it to people is this: what do you like about Catan, and what would like to improve on?  Because each expansion generally tweaks one broad area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seafarers&lt;/strong&gt; is ideal if you think Catan is fine, but wish it was bigger.  More space to place things, more exploration, and generally just more Catan.  Same basic rules, new maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cities and Knights&lt;/strong&gt; is best if you think Catan is too simple, or too easy, or something like that.  It makes the game deeper instead of broader, and adds more strategy options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traders and Barbarians&lt;/strong&gt; is actually my recommended expansion in general, because it is very diverse.  It's good if you just want to tweak the game a little (I never play without Harbourmaster now, and I often bring in Fishers).  It's also great if you want something different: from a minigame that's like Cities and Knights light to a modification that basically turns Catan into an entirely different game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, for the money, T&amp;amp;B really just gives you the most stuff.  Seafarers I recommend second, unless as I said, you just want bigger Catan.  C&amp;amp;K I recommend last, unless the group just really wants a more complex game, and even then T&amp;amp;B probably covers that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5-6 Player expansions I consider obvious: if you often have 5 or 6 people who want in on Catan, you need the expansions.  You could also get the 5-6 basic game expansions as a kind of mini-seafarers, if you just wanted to play with four people a little less aggressively with a bigger island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T21:52:11.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2540" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-10T23:44:49.487" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-02-10T23:44:49.487" LastActivityDate="2011-02-10T23:44:49.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2541" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-10T23:44:49.487" Score="0" Body="Advanced Civilization (1991) is the upgrade to Civilization (1980) designed by Francis Tresham.  It's a game for from 2-8 people of civilization building; involving population expansion, trading, war and technology advances.  You must own Civilization to be able to play Advanced Civilization, though there is no in-print English edition currently." OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T00:07:35.950" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T00:07:35.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="617" CreationDate="2011-02-11T05:29:53.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you may be asking for a variant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can vary things in many ways&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-seed roles with money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a closed money auction mechanic instead of turn order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a certain role unavailable first round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw roles randomly first round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invert benefits first round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T05:29:53.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="617" CreationDate="2011-02-11T19:40:39.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player 4 shouldn't be playing Craftsman, knowing that player 5 will Captain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, if he player 4 uses Craftsman, players 4 and 5 get a 1-2 VP advantage over players 1-3, but they'd both be better off Prospecting this early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the following is a good alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 4: &lt;strong&gt;Prospector&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 5: &lt;strong&gt;Prospector&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Craftsman&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-11T19:50:30.350" LastActivityDate="2011-02-11T19:50:30.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2588" CreationDate="2011-02-11T22:11:39.467" Score="3" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing the Days of Wonder game Pirate's Cove earlier this evening; it's a lot of fun but the rules aren't exactly &lt;em&gt;watertight&lt;/em&gt;, and more than once I felt there was considerable ambiguity in how they should be interpreted. Here's one that I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a pirate ship flees or is sent packing from combat, their opponents remaining in the fight get 1 Fame point for seeing them off. At one point two of us sailed to the same island and a third player sprang the Royal Navy on us. The Royal Navy crippled one ship, which was forced to set sail for Pirate's Cove. The question: does the remaining player get a Fame point, on the grounds that they have outlasted an opponent in battle? Our group majority-voted no, because at the time both ships were fighting the Navy together, so it didn't count as seeing off an opponent. But I wasn't so sure...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T17:02:29.963" Title="Fleeing the Navy, in Pirate's Cove" Tags="|pirates-cove|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2591" CreationDate="2011-02-11T22:13:08.277" Score="4" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing the Days of Wonder game Pirate's Cove earlier this evening; it's a lot of fun but the rules aren't exactly &lt;em&gt;watertight&lt;/em&gt;, and more than once I felt there was considerable ambiguity in how they should be interpreted. Here's one that I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play the battle card that gives you a bonus of +6 to your Sails, when your Sails are the weakest aspect of your ship. Does this bonus only extend as far as letting you fire first in combat, i.e. if you get hit on your sails a couple of times are you still out for the count? Or do you have to be hit six extra times to be eliminated? I suspect the answer is the former, but as I've narrowly lost the game at least once because my Sails got speedily knocked down despite receiving the bonus from this card, I'd love to find out that the latter was true!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T18:57:55.090" Title="Boosting Sails, in Pirate's Cove" Tags="|pirates-cove|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2722" CreationDate="2011-02-11T22:16:29.413" Score="2" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing the Days of Wonder game Pirate's Cove earlier this evening; it's a lot of fun but the rules aren't exactly &lt;em&gt;watertight&lt;/em&gt;, and more than once I felt there was considerable ambiguity in how they should be interpreted. Here's one that I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of our pirates was fortunate enough to draw a Parrot as his starting card. Within the first couple of turns, though, our ships came into conflict. Being a hater of birds, I opened fire on his parrot and shot it clean off the mizzenmast instead of concentrating on sinking the shap. Losing one's parrot is obviously worth a humiliating -2 Fame. But if you had 0 Fame when you lost it, do you go to -2 or stay at 0? The scoring track is circular so it was easy enough to represent a negative score, but was this correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T03:55:41.233" Title="Proper Punishment for Parrot Perdition, in Pirate's Cove" Tags="|pirates-cove|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2563" CreationDate="2011-02-12T03:06:56.123" Score="4" ViewCount="3677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a wargame of any genre that has rules for creating stats for any miniature from any company. I know I've seen at least one set of rules like that, but I can't remember what the name of it was, nor can I find it through Google, as I'm not sure what to look for. It doesn't matter if it's a free game or if I have to pay for the rules, I just need a game where I can use the minis I've already got.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user886" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T04:35:40.173" Title="Wargame with customizable miniature stats?" Tags="|game-system|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-02-12T08:42:05.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Settlers of Catan website FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Requirements for Victory - What if someone has reached the required number of victory points for a win but is unaware of it? Did this player win anyway?&#xA;Answer:&#xA;Yes. The game ends as soon as a player has reached the required number of victory points on his turn. If he’s unaware of it, you should tell him, because you can’t take an already gained victory away from him.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the only way it seems that you can gain 10 points in the regular game is when it's not your turn is if someone breaks up a longest road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's likely that the confusing language was used &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in regards to the breaking up the longest road; and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in anticipation of the fact that in the expansion sets there are ways of getting points when it's not your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="887" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T06:59:55.237" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T06:59:55.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="56" CreationDate="2011-02-12T17:26:41.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On a tie vote, the Yes votes carry.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mayfair Games released this game as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/game.php?id=87&amp;amp;stock=MFG4104&amp;amp;name=Wacky+Wacky+West&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wacky Wacky West&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, on their website is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/video.php?id=275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;play demonstration/rules explanation video.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At about 3:15 the voting is explained and contains this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are more yes votes than no votes or if it's a tie the tile is played and the outhouse is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On BoardGameGeek, there is a file uploaded entitled &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/24602/rule-clarification-tied-voting-doc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule clarification - tied voting&lt;/a&gt; which has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German rules state the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Ueberwiegen die Ja-Stimmen oder waren Nein- und Ja-Stimmen gleich stark, bleibt das Plaettchen ueber dem Toilettenhaeuschen liegen.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be translated as follows: If there are more &amp;quot;Ja&amp;quot; votes than &amp;quot;Ne&amp;quot; votes, or if the &amp;quot;Ja&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Ne&amp;quot; votes are equally strong, the tile remains in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T17:26:41.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-12T17:45:05.030" Score="7" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Intrigue, and it seems cool that it opens up the game to 5 or 6 players. However, the common consensus seems to be that its possible, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40834/dominion-intrigue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;but not recommended&lt;/a&gt;. Is there anything I can do to make Dominion play better with 5 or 6 people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:05:08.667" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T00:14:50.763" Title="How can I make Dominion play better with 5+ players?" Tags="|dominion|house-rules|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2011-02-12T18:11:19.773" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem with extra players that I usually see is &lt;strong&gt;down-time&lt;/strong&gt;. Dominion is partially a group solitaire game. There is some interaction between players with attack cards, but otherwise your opponents turns won't matter a lot besides keeping an idea on what piles are low and the game end. I find with 5 the main problem is &quot;I know what I'm going to do, I just have to wait through 3 more people's turns to do it&quot;. You also might want to tweak the number of kingdom card piles to somewhere between 11 and 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first and easiest thing you can do is &lt;strong&gt;lessen the cards that take longer to resolve&lt;/strong&gt;. Spy, Throne room, Adventurer, Contraband, Counting House, Possession, and many others tend to make turns take a little longer. This doesn't mean that they are bad in any way, it just means if you are worried about long down-times with 5 or 6 people you might want to forgo them. Removing certain cards may annoy hardcore players who want a truly random layout, but my games usually aren't super serious and its worth it to fit in the extra person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do if you are adventurous with 6 is play &lt;strong&gt;3 teams of 2&lt;/strong&gt;. Turns pass from one team to another. Both members of that team take their turns at the same time and have totally separate decks. Their attack cards only affect the players on the other teams. It helps to use attack cards that don't depend on order very much in case you both attack. What do you do if one of you plays a spy and the other a thief? What order do they go in? Instead of trying to make rules about this, just use attacks that don't clash with others too easily, like militia and witch. The team mechanism is mainly to allow some simultaneous turns; you can play as a team and do some minor collaboration, like who should buy what or who should focus on attacks vs. victory points, or still make it every man for themselves and have the player with the most victory points win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T00:28:48.873" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T00:28:48.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2011-02-12T18:11:53.377" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not forever, but for a while at least, don't play with the cards that require a player to make a choice for every other player.  I'm thinking of cards like the Spy, where you get to choose whether or not to trash the top card of each player's deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest this because, if your group is inexperienced at Dominion, this kind of thing can easily slow the game down to a crawl.  Personally I find that a lot of &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; Dominion actions are really simple things like &quot;buy a Treasure&quot; or &quot;buy a Province&quot;.  It drives me crazy if I'm waiting 5 minutes between each move when I'm just autopiloting my strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everyone is experienced at Dominion, of course, they can get their moves done quickly and efficiently, even if multiple additional actions and draws are involved.  As long as the game is going pretty much as fast as it can go, there are no grounds can complaint.  But until then, it can be really frustrating to be sitting around non-interactively for minutes on end waiting to play a move that requires no thought on your part anyway.  So, yes, that's my suggestion: phase the more complex and fiddly cards in gradually!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-12T18:11:53.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2011-02-12T20:13:34.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One suggestion I have is that, once someone finishes playing all their actions, have the next person start playing.  There is only one Treasure card that involves any other player doing anything, and that is Contraband, where the person to your left can name a card you cannot buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if a player has a card that affects other players, they need to stop and wait for the other players to catch up.  Two non-attack cards this applies to are Masquerade and Vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to play an action that requires you to count cards (Counting House, Philosopher's Stone), count the cards in advance.  The only time you can't do this is if you have other actions that will affect the card count.  In the case of Philosopher's Stone, this is any card that causes you to draw cards (cards in your hand and in play are not counted by Philosopher's Stone).  For Counting House, this big one that affects this is Chancellor, as long as you have two or more actions this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This next part wasn't really what you were asking for, but for each player over 4, you should add 3 Estates, 7 Coppers, 10 Curses, and 3 Provinces to the game.  The Estates and Coppers make sure these piles stay at their respective starting numbers despite the number of players (12 and 32 respectively), as there are cards that may or may not manipulate these piles.  Increasing the number of Curses and Provinces is mentioned in the Intrigue rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-13T02:55:08.427" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T02:55:08.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2559" CreationDate="2011-02-13T09:42:34.980" Score="2" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Elfenland, it states that on step 6, all the transport counters that were placed on the map are to be removed and shuffled with the remaining face down counters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I understand from this, that the map will never be completely filled with counters?&#xA;If that is indeed correct, then if 4 players are in separate regions and have no way of interacting directly and no interest, can you only use your few counters to move around your position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="894" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-13T17:20:36.507" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T19:12:36.433" Title="Step 6 in Elfenland" Tags="|elfenland|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2558" CreationDate="2011-02-13T11:59:58.723" Score="8" ViewCount="29380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you pay with houses or hotels or do they remain with you forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="103" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T01:31:39.027" Title="In Monopoly Deal, can you pay with houses or hotels?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2011-02-13T16:25:58.743" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/monopoly/en_US/discover/faq.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monopoly Deal FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (scroll down to near the end):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q - WHICH CARDS CAN I USE TO PAY OTHER PLAYERS? (E.G. FOR RENT, BIRTHDAYS ETC.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A - You can choose to pay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from your Bank (with money or Action cards that you've Banked as money),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with Property cards, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with a combination of both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, you can only pay with cards that are on the table in front of you, never with cards from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot pay with Houses or Hotels you have on properties because they are not in your bank nor are they Property cards themselves.  If you had Banked them, you could use them to pay for things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T15:28:18.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2556" CreationDate="2011-02-13T19:12:36.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand it, the Transportation Counters are removed at the end of the turn, but all players play out the Transportation Counters before the movement phase starts.  In the movement phase, you can use the counters that other players have played onto routes.  If the players start the turn isolated from each other, it seems likely that a successful tactic would be to move towards and make good use of the Transportation Counters laid by another player!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T19:12:36.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2587" CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:20:38.207" Score="26" ViewCount="40617" Body="&lt;p&gt;At present I only own the Dominion Base set and my girlfriend and I have only played the game a few times. I figure we'll stick to the starter layout for a few more games but after that I'm curious what are some fun initial setups for 2-person play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I noted in comments below I'm looking for multiple setups which will be well suited for a fun two person game. By fun I mean multiple strategies and some interaction. I'm playing with my girlfriend, when we've played random setups we have had fun but have found many that aren't as engaging as others. Cards such as Council Room (which some don't like) at least engaged the other player during a turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am open to buying expansions in the future but initially I'm looking for suggestions to have fun with just the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="842" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T01:26:54.357" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T23:41:40.680" Title="What are some fun setups for Dominion for two players?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2011-02-13T20:37:38.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find most setups usually work equally well with different numbers of players, especially in the base set. Make some yourself, try an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online randomizer&lt;/a&gt;, or look for &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominiondeck.com/games/fun-all-family-base-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;highly rated games with just the base&lt;/a&gt;. Its hard to go wrong whatever you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, but if you want to keep your relationship together you might want to leave out the witch and the militia. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-13T20:37:38.830" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2011-02-14T00:13:52.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;FASA's &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4977/vor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; was designed to do exactly this for generic science fiction - it's set in a huge void which sucks in planets and life from all over the universe.  Unfortunately FASA's collapse prevented the detailed rulebook for custom miniature stats from ever being published, but the basic rules in the main set are workable, just not detailed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically it resembled a conventional 40k-ish skirmish wargame, d10-based, with an interesting order system that allowed for good tactical use of cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A new version has been in development, but it's Kickstarter project has just failed to raise the funds to get art and printing for the main rules printed, so I don't know if anything will happen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16533/atherverse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aetherverse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is also intended to allow flexible use of any force; this one set on multiple-parallel-Earths.  I haven't played it, so can't comment on the mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="245" LastEditDate="2011-03-26T14:53:04.577" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T14:53:04.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3588" CreationDate="2011-02-14T01:26:58.947" Score="8" ViewCount="13840" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing as Japan in Axis and Allies, 2nd edition, should Japan attack Pearl Harbor on its first turn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, why and what force structure do you use? Do your actions depend on what Russia and the UK have done on their first turn (e.g. heavily fortified Eastern Russia or build an Indian factory)? Do you press on with the attack no matter what or is there a point at which you'd cut your losses and retreat? If you win, do you take your fleet back to home waters on turn two, or do you continue South or East?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't attack, what's your rationale and what do you do with the units that might have participated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T14:27:39.920" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T17:34:23.647" Title="Axis and Allies 2nd Edition: to Pearl Harbor or not to Pearl Harbor" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2566" CreationDate="2011-02-14T01:55:29.967" Score="15" ViewCount="12320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression that the play time in Settlers of Catan was more modest than say, Risk. However it seems almost as long. This is often due to a lot of trading and talk which drags on for a lot of time as people propose variations on a declined trade. Have any of you found similar problems? How would you solve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="29" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:25:01.963" Title="Settlers of Catan play takes hours" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:24:20.633" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, make sure you're following the rule that the person who's turn it is must be involved in all trades during that turn. If you let everyone trade during the trading phase, discussions could take a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're following that rule, it really shouldn't take that person very long to figure out all of the available trades. If you start out by saying &quot;I'm looking for sheep and ore. Is anyone willing to trade those to me?&quot;, you can very quickly get a sense of whether any trades will be possible. If anyone says &quot;yes&quot;, you say &quot;I have wood or brick that I'm willing to trade, are you interested in either of those?&quot; Now you allow them to propose the precise details of the trade, or you let them say &quot;I'm interested in brick&quot; and you propose a precise trade. There really shouldn't be much of a back and forth; either there's a trade that both of you are interested in, or there isn't, and it shouldn't take more than a few seconds to figure that out. Yes, occasionally you will have a back-and-forth negotiation, but it shouldn't happen in the majority of trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can take some practice to get into the habit of trading quickly and efficiently. I'd recommend trying out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=36&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot;&gt;bgg&lt;/a&gt;|&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohnanza&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; with the group; it's a fairly quick and easy game that consists almost entirely of trading, so if you play it, you will get in the habit of trading quickly and efficiently or else the game will drag on forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, it's really a matter of being disciplined while you play. In almost any game, if you allow people to take too long making up their minds or getting distracted by something trivial, it will take a while. Try and set a reasonable pace for the trading by example and by encouraging other players to trade efficiently, and it should speed up after a little while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T03:24:20.633" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2011-02-14T03:25:32.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/122/countermeasures-to-analysis-paralysis&quot;&gt;If analysis-paralysis is your issue see here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; Some minor encouragement to speed things up usually helps, and if not you can think about imposing a turn timer if you think its necessary. Its tempting to figure out every possible trade you could make, but its rarely beneficial or a good use of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've played the game a few times, solved your long trades issue, and still want quicker game there's a few other tricks you can try. Granted these will change the strategy of the game in minor ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play to 9 victory points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/549/alternative-for-dice-in-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;use cards instead of dice.&lt;/a&gt; I just combine two decks to simulate a dice roll. Having one player do all the card picking can make things go a bit faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2025/how-to-reduce-slow-starts-at-the-beginning-of-the-game&quot;&gt;give the beginning of the game a little jump-start.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;roll the dice twice before each player's turn in a 2 or 3 player game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T03:25:32.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2584" CreationDate="2011-02-14T04:22:16.003" Score="26" ViewCount="19054" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone just spilled water on my Carcassonne tiles. The illustrations are coming apart from the cardboard (they're wrinkling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best thing to do? How can I dry them with best results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T03:48:18.133" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T22:40:45.457" Title="Water damage on cardboard pieces" Tags="|carcassonne|components|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2011-02-14T05:39:43.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry to add another non-answer, but I'd say that if you play several games in a row with the exact same set of cards, you'll quickly tire of it. Especially with the base set, most 10 card sets will have one or two best strategies, but often not much beyond that. Pretty soon, you're both just going to be going after the same strategy each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll learn the specific strategy of how to play those 10 cards well, but you won't really be learning the game the way you should, and will be slow to pick up on new strategies when you start mixing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T05:39:43.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2574" CreationDate="2011-02-14T09:12:52.507" Score="9" ViewCount="5636" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cities_and_Knights_of_Catan&quot;&gt;Cities and Knights&lt;/a&gt; at the weekend and halfway through the game realised that no one had earned the largest army card.  The reason behind this was that no one knew what it was earned for.  A couple of us scanned through the rule book in search of the answer, but to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having since looked at the Wikipedia page (linked above) I see that it's the player with the most knight points, but do the knights have to be active, and is there a minimum requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-07T16:38:50.370" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T02:14:18.277" Title="Largest Army in Settlers of Catan: Cities and Knights" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-02-14T13:25:03.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sad answer is that the only real shot you have at saving wet die-cut cardboard counters is when they're still wet, as far as I know. If you immediately put them on a tray, or in a plastic box (if in layers, separate the layers with wax paper), and put them in a very cold freezer and leave them there for a &lt;em&gt;long time&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. weeks or months), then the water freezing will tend not to mis-shape the cardboard, and gradual sublimation will happen very slowly over time and your counters should dry out. Taking them out of the freezer later will require care as condensation will occur on the counter surfaces: best to bring them into air that's as dry as possible and as cool as possible, and have lots of blotting material ready until the counters' temperature gets warm enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you're concerned about is functional tiles that don't have separating layers, you can try re-gluing with a decoupage solution (good decoupage glue will dry clear), but I have never tried that and I suspect such a project would require great patience and care (and again, I suspect would meet with more success if done while the tiles were still wet/damp). In terms of this particular game where it's important to have relatively non-distinguishable tiles, I suspect this solution isn't going to produce happy results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, you may find that the easiest, least expensive (in terms of materials and time) solution is to simply buy another copy of the game (and ask the water-spiller to help defray the cost, if you feel comfortable doing that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T13:25:03.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2011-02-14T13:36:45.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not massively familiar with wargames, but I thought this suggestion from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1883/free-warhammer-like-games&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt; may be of interest to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brikwars.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brikwars&lt;/a&gt; is a gaming system intended to be played with Lego-esque figures.  However, the stats for each figure are largely based on the figures dimensions (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brikwars.com/rules/2005/3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules about weapons&lt;/a&gt;), and so it is possible to create stats for any figure of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T13:36:45.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2011-02-14T15:11:57.787" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Largest Army&lt;/strong&gt; card is not used in &lt;strong&gt;Cities and Knights&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?CaK_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; p2, under &amp;quot;What you need from your Settlers game&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set aside  ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Largest Army card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T15:11:57.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2435" CreationDate="2011-02-14T15:44:53.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the German Ohne Furcht und Adel version in the tin. The Dark Lands. The rule book gives clarification on a handful of purple cards. It is quite clear. The Wishing Well itself does NOT get an extra point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user898" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T15:44:53.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2578" CreationDate="2011-02-14T16:14:34.663" Score="15" ViewCount="9997" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have seen people do is try to brig a player making a final attempt to sway someone to help.  The best success I have had in a game was grab the admiral position for a turn with a character power, and hit the FTL early.  Are there any better strategies?  Do you think you should deny it to the bitter end no matter what never taking openly hostile actions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-14T16:26:59.333" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T19:46:31.147" Title="What is the most damaging thing a cylon can do in BattleStar Galactica on a turn he is revealing himself?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-02-14T17:07:04.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Manners dictate the clumsy culprit should offer to buy you a new set. Beyond that, you can laminate the tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you have to see this from a cost-to-benefit perspective. Unless this particular set is dear to you, I would buy another one. Especially since laminating the damaged tiles also means laminating all of them; you don't want to make damaged tiles distinct from their intact brethren.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of that, you can try a one-sided pseudo-lamination by sticking plastic sheets only on one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T13:06:21.800" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T13:06:21.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:44:12.327" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the absolute best reveals I have seen typically involve either getting an executive order, or playing a critical situation, whilst abusing things like arrest orders.  Most recently, we had Laura Roslin, who had moved to the Admiral's Quarters with the intention of visiting the Ally there, receive an Executive Order from another player.  Roslin immediately played an arrest order with her first action, brigging that player, and then with her second action, activated the location, targetting another human, and then playing the new 6-strength yellow skill card that auto-passes locational checks in order to force him to the brig as well with no check.  That ended the turn of the unfortunate human; next up was... Laura Roslin, who played another arrest order, brigging the last human player, and then revealed as a Cylon (the shock!) damaging Galactica.  That particular game ended in a hurry as the two revealed cylons were now opposed by three inmates, and the damage mounted up fast and furious.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lesson:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NEVER&lt;/strong&gt; XO the player whose turn is next, unless all cylons are accounted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The contrapositive lesson for the cylon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get an XO when your turn is soon or next for maximum carnage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use communications to move civilians out of their defended areas straight into raider fleets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you use up any Once-Per-Game effects you have;  you lose them when you are revealed to be a Cylon.  That means re-roll successful FTL checks(Gaeta), force humans to decide badly on skill cards (Helo), force humans to lose on Legendary Discovery (Boomer), shoot the President/Admiral (Cally), etc.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brigging the admiral is more effective than brigging the president;  it throws the title in the air, and you may wind up with it.  If you do, squander the nukes :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are playing with the New Caprica expansion, the most lethal thing you can do is jump Galactica away before any civilians are launched.  Watch for timely opportunities to either be the Admiral (very difficult, lots of groups will execute the Admiral on principle to try to find the Cylon) or be someone who can become Admiral by power (Ellen Tigh) or by succession (be next in line, execute the Admiral).  As soon as Galactica returns, jump out, which causes &lt;strong&gt;EVERY CIVILIAN SHIP IN PLAY TO BE DESTROYED&lt;/strong&gt;. I've never seen a group survive that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are playing with the Ionian Nebula, visit lots of allies.  You can set up negative consequences on powerful allies, and then recommend to the other humans that they be visited :P.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are playing with the Ionian Nebula, you can try to eliminate a key human player during the trial by dumping trauma tokens on them with certain trial-crisis cards.  Also, in the leadup to that point, the more turns you can force humans to spend in sickbay/brig, the more likely they are to lose their trial or be flat-out executed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are Lee Adama, you can use your once per game to remove viper cover from civilian ships at a key moment.  Don't forget that every viper launch is a mini-XO for you;  if the player before you launches a Viper, you can use that to launch yourself, trigger your once-per game, wreck the humans viper coverage, and then on YOUR turn, carry out the rest of your nefarious plot.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the key to a successful reveal is to either cripple mankind directly with big stat hits, or to gain an advantage by wrecking their hands/freedom of movement through execution or brigging.  Bear in mind that in the Ionian Nebula, the longer any given person is in the brig (or sickbay) the more likely they are to get executed or eliminated in the trial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T19:44:12.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2576" CreationDate="2011-02-14T19:46:31.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being the Admiral before revealing is definitely the most damaging for the humans.  Firing nukes unnecessarily and making one or two really expensive FTL jumps (i.e. low jump distance and high fuel cost) can easily win the game for the Cylons, especially with the latest two expansions.  Putting someone in the brig, damaging Galactica, or killing a character is also good (and fun!), but the effects of those are usually temporary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user899" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T19:46:31.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2850" CreationDate="2011-02-14T20:58:53.793" Score="29" ViewCount="9154" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the early days, Magic had crazy, subpar mulligan rules: you could shuffle up and draw a new 7 if your hand had no lands or all lands, otherwise you were out of luck.  A long time ago the Paris Mulligan rule was introduced and it seems to have stuck.  If you don't like your hand, throw it back and draw 6.  If you don't like that one, try again drawing 5, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a pretty good rule and I didn't question it, but recently I've been playing &quot;Duels of the Planeswalkers&quot; on XBox (incidentally, if anyone else has that and wants to challenge me, let me know!).  The mulligan rule there is a little different.  You can throw your hand back and draw a new 7 once for free.  After that Paris rules are in force: every subsequent time you mulligan your hand size goes down by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that this &quot;lenient mulligan&quot; rule is really good for the game.  Magic is a game with a large element of randomness from the shuffle.  Quite often players &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; draw a 7-card hand that's basically unplayable and &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to throw it back, unless they're crazy gamblers with nothing left to lose.  If your opponent keeps and you mulligan to 6, you're at a significant disadvantage already.  If you have to mulligan to 5 or fewer, you'd better hope somebody up there likes you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know (or have an informed idea) why Magic retains a mulligan rule that allows unbalanced games to happen as often as they do?  It just feels like the XBox mulligan would allow players to play their decks &quot;as they were meant to work&quot; more often, and have to battle against long odds much less often.  What is the defence for the continued predominance in the Magic world of the Paris mulligan rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T16:21:07.110" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T16:21:07.110" Title="Why Does Magic Use The &quot;Paris Mulligan&quot; Rule?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|variants|mulligans|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:21:30.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Informed idea:  The problem with a more &quot;open&quot; mulligan rule is striking a balance between &quot;fair randomization&quot; and &quot;how a deck is supposed to work.&quot;  It's fairly easy to construct a deck in which the correct 6-8 cards being in your starting hand gives you a near-guaranteed win in 1-3 turns.  Preventing this is the reason decks have a minimum size, and individual cards have a quantity limit.  But if players could freely reshuffle and re-draw, they would.  Over and over, until they got that perfect hand which won the game.  The concept of &quot;how a deck is supposed to work&quot; would morph into perfect, 7-card combos.  To prevent this, and create more options in deck design, mulligans are very, very costly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="176" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T22:21:30.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-02-14T22:37:33.580" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm old and tired, and I haven't played Magic much in the last 15 years.  With that as a caveat, my recollection is that the harsh penalty for declaring a mulligan was to prevent excessive &quot;gaming&quot; of declaring a mulligan.  Part of the point of M:tG was to create a deck that was playable despite the fact that the order of the cards would be random.  Being able to mulligan out of a &quot;bad&quot; hand lets players create a less balanced deck that needs a specific start hand to succeed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, playing decks &quot;as they were meant to work&quot; should take into account the fact that sometimes things won't come out the way you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related link of possible interest: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af3&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2011-02-14T22:37:33.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-02-15T00:35:04.543" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/customer_service.html&quot;&gt;Customer Service&lt;/a&gt; at Rio Grande Games will replace pieces for a fee upon request. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ended up with a set second hand that was missing a tile, and they sent it to me. I'm not sure how cost effective it would be if a lot of tiles are damaged though, compared to getting a new set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T01:51:34.433" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T01:51:34.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-02-15T02:39:18.020" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I did, and they don't look bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used a towel to pat dry the tiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Used my fingers to press out the wrinkles and squish the expanding cardboard back together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laid them down between two towels, put a textbook on top, and pressed down to get some more water out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pressed out the wrinkles and squish cardboard together again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laid them down between two &lt;strong&gt;paper&lt;/strong&gt; towels (paper towels are thinner and I wanted to make sure they stayed flat) and laid several textbooks on top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After several hours, squished with fingers again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dry paper towels and textbooks again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next day, I pulled them out and laid them on a dry towel.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point they're holding together really well and are only marginally thicker than the undamaged pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPiPU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Formerly soaked piece on left. Dry on right.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damaged piece on the left is only a bit thicker than the dry one on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="859" LastEditorUserId="859" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T19:48:08.117" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T19:48:08.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2105" CreationDate="2011-02-15T09:22:32.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you have to disclose your system to the opposition there is certainly skill in designing bids and systems in the first place, which of course any partnership is free to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the bidding space forms a fixed code-space in which you would like to communicate much more than you can, so there are trade-offs. Every conventional bid you add replaces a natural bid so the trick is to replace 'boring bids' with conventions which give you extra help in e.g. finding slams or games, as they are weighted much more than getting part games in the scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to bear in mind is that your opponents aren't necessarily just going to sit there and let you bid to slam uninterrupted. There are numerous conventions for disrupting opponents bidding while not risking too much. The bidding space is potentially even more limited when your opponents bid as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="594" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T13:23:01.087" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T13:23:01.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2011-02-15T13:22:06.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more DIY answer: if the top has come off of the tile but not the bottom, then you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for the remainder of the tile to dry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover in paper towel and press it with heavy books until it's dry and as flat as you can get it (two blocks of wood and a vice can help with this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print out the image of the tile (there are lots of images on the game's entry on BoardGameGeek: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/images/thing/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/images/thing/822/carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; ).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut it out roughly, and paste to the top of your existing tile with PVA glue (white glue). Make sure the edges of the image slightly overhang the edges of the tile, and that you cover the back of the image in only a thin but consistent layer of glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a bit of that transparent, self-adhesive book-covering plastic, and smooth it over the top of your pasted-down image.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn the tile over, and using a sharp knife (wallpaper knife, scalpel, that kind of thing) trace lightly around the edge of the tile, applying only a little pressure until you've cut through all of the overhang of the image and the plastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bonus points, press it in the vice again to make sure it's as thin as you can get it; home lamination will nearly always be thicker than commercial printing, and waterlogged card will often swell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user902" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T13:22:06.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2011-02-15T14:17:04.707" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since random setups have already been recommended, let me suggest a couple of individual card combos that can form the core of an interesting set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Core strategies in the base set. Choose 2 of these, and fill in the rest of the cards randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Woodcutter/Workshop + Gardens (+ Cellar): obvious gardens path&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Roome + Remodel/Mine: TR helps the fact that these strategies are slow on their own&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chapel: trash as fast as possible and race for provinces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Witch/Militia (interesting both with and without Moats): slow down your opponent with attacks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smithy/Moneylender: accelerate the early game to 5+ coin hands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Interesting card interactions in the base set. Choose one and fill in the rest randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Witch + Gardens strategy cards: do you curse your opponent and make his/her Gardens more valuable?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Militia + Library: you can attack to slow down your opponent, but if he/she has a Library in hand then the attack is mostly wasted. Do you go for offense or defense?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chapel + Thief: if you trash your starting cards to accelerate your deck, you will be more vulnerable to having your few (and good) treasure cards stolen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if &lt;em&gt;player&lt;/em&gt; interaction is a really important criterion for you, you should seriously consider adding the Intrigue expansion. Not only is it built around the theme of interaction, but it also has lots of cards that combo well with base set cards to create interesting strategies (Duke/Duchy, Gardens/Bridge, Gardens/Ironworks, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T14:17:04.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2546" CreationDate="2011-02-15T17:02:29.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The remaining opponents get 1 Fame each.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Quotations are from the rules &lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/piratescove/en/img/pc_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/piratescove/en/img/pc_rules_de.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Scoring&lt;/strong&gt; section is somewhat confusing in the English version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pirates GAIN fame from each of the following actions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Winning Battles (1 point per player that is defeated or flees after being hit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German version (note that the original game was German) translates to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Winning battles (one point per player whose ship has been destroyed or flees after being hit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the emphasis seems to be on the action of a ship being disabled or a ship fleeing, not in the outcome being called &quot;winning&quot; a battle. The &lt;strong&gt;Forced retreat&lt;/strong&gt; section follows this thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A crippled ship brings all remaining opponents on that island 1 point of fame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the German is even clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All opponents remaining on the contested island receive one fame point for a destroyed ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the word &quot;opponents&quot; is plural and that the German still calls it a &quot;contested&quot; (&quot;umkämpften&quot;) island both refute the fact that a battle must be completely &quot;won&quot; by dispatching &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; other opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T17:02:29.963" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2547" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:39:16.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sails aren't strengthened; how would you track hits?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; is a Battle card, it lasts only for the duration of the battle. Damage to any of the ship's sections is represented physically (e.g., moving a ring, turning a card sideways). Likewise, the results of repair/upgrade are represented physically and they require discarding a payment (e.g., gold, the &lt;em&gt;Going on the account&lt;/em&gt; event card). If it made your sails temporarily able to take six more hits, how would that be represented without losing track of your sails' real strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Note: This argument is weakened by the fact that the answer, &quot;the same way as you'd track the legendary pirates' hull,&quot; is quite a reasonable counter-argument.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T18:39:16.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2547" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:40:52.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sails aren't strengthened; the deck composition would be different.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are already cards that add strength to sections of the ship (Parrot cards and the &lt;em&gt;Mastercraft&lt;/em&gt; card). These come with a cost for losing that additional strength; why would &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; strengthen your sails without a cost? Why would a card strengthening only sails be needed in addition to these cards? Wouldn't the rules also make it clear which card takes damage if you had &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; in addition to a &lt;em&gt;Mastercraft&lt;/em&gt; on sails, or &lt;em&gt;Squire Trelawney’s Parrot&lt;/em&gt; (who is &quot;equipped&quot; to the sails)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; was intended to absorb hits on the sails, why aren't there similar cards for cannons or crew (or hull, for that matter)? Perhaps a Battle card stating &quot;For the rest of this battle, your cannons and crew each have a bonus of +2&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the &lt;em&gt;Grapple attack&lt;/em&gt; card increases your ability to damage a ship, without increasing the strength (against damage) of crew or cannons. I'd say a similar effect is intended for &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T18:40:52.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2547" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:43:11.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sails aren't strengthened; this doesn't work in the representation of the theme.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Days of Wonder games attempt to do a good job matching the rules to the game's theme. I can see &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; thematically as having an advantageous positioning for the wind. I can also see the Parrot and &lt;em&gt;Mastercraft&lt;/em&gt; cards' thematic workings. However, it doesn't make sense that sails would suddenly, and temporarily, become harder to damage in a combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T18:43:11.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2547" CreationDate="2011-02-15T18:44:22.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Sails aren't strengthened; it doesn't make sense with the game's RPG-like mechanics.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played many role playing games (I'm not meaning RPG video games here—I'm referring to stuff like &lt;em&gt;Dungeons and Dragons&lt;/em&gt;), but I think I know enough about them for this argument. Pirate's Cove shares several mechanics with RPG gaming, so I'd expect the terminology to have a similar meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/piratescove/en/img/pc_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; describe &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; in this way: &quot;For the rest of this battle, your sail has a bonus of +6.&quot; It seems to me that RPGs use terminology like &quot;+6 bonus&quot; to represent an additive benefit to only one specified attribute of a character. For example (and correct me if I'm wrong!), if I had a +2 speed bonus from equipping certain shoes (making me run faster), it wouldn't necessarily mean it's harder for my character to hurt his/her foot or that the shoes are harder to break. Similarly, I'd expect &lt;em&gt;Blow me down!&lt;/em&gt; to mean I'm getting a +6 speed or initiative bonus without implying a +6 defense bonus on my sails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2011-02-15T18:57:55.090" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T18:57:55.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2596" CreationDate="2011-02-15T19:46:44.313" Score="33" ViewCount="9546" Body="&lt;p&gt;Especially for games which involve frequent card shuffling by multiple players of decks of uneven sizes is there is a technique for shuffling which is quick and easy for everyone to learn yet also reliably random? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally this would work with cards which were sleeved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking in particular for games of Dominion but have run into this question around many other games involving multiple decks as well. Back in my days of serious Magic the Gathering playing deck shuffling was always a complex subject especially in tournament situations (and even in more casual play as keeping the cards undamaged was a priority)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T16:02:39.527" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:02:39.527" Title="What is a safe and accurate technique for shuffling cards?" Tags="|dominion|playing-cards|shuffling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2594" CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:35:14.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I know of M:tG, a common shuffling technique is to deal the cards to a number of piles, say about 5 to 8, randomly sending a card to each pile until all are used up.  Then stack the piles in random order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Dominion, I commonly just use an under-over-hand shuffle.  That is, with cards in my right hand, I splash some amount off the top into my left.  Then I flip the left side up and splash some more so this new set is on the bottom of the left hand stack.  I'll randomly pick between top and bottom, sometimes even splitting the deck in my left and dumping some cards in the middle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not highly random, but if you do it several times in a row, it seems to mix the cards up pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T20:35:14.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2594" CreationDate="2011-02-15T20:43:19.867" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I shuffle I use a mixture of two techniques: riffle and stripping (as defined quite adequately in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on shuffling&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;strong&gt;Riffle&lt;/strong&gt; separates adjacent cards while &lt;strong&gt;stripping&lt;/strong&gt; cycles cards from the top of the deck to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use both because riffle alone will &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; slowly push cards in the bottom half of each cut down, but tends to leave the top of the deck the same; stripping mitigates this drawback. Stripping alone takes too long to separate adjacent cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early in the game when the deck is small (&amp;lt; 20 cards) it's very difficult--and unnecessary--to riffle so I only strip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia points out that riffling can be hard on cards; however, I've found that damage typically occurs because the person isn't good at shuffling and either excessively bends the cards or doesn't get good interspersion between the cuts. Being able to execute a bridge also reduces card wear as it evens out the bending and prevents the cards from acquiring a camber. In fact, I think proper riffle shuffling breaks in cards and makes them less stiff and prone to sticking to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that you're looking for something potentially easier to learn the riffling, but nothing is as fast (vital in Dominion) or as reliable at randomizing a deck. Honestly, anyone with reasonable motor skills should be able to learn to riffle with practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wash&lt;/strong&gt; shuffles are great for randomization but totally infeasible for Dominion since they take so long and take so much table space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weaves&lt;/strong&gt; have the same end results at riffles, so if you weave you should strip as well. A weave is easier for many people to do, but will damage cards quickly as you have to slam or wiggle the edges of the deck together. Cards were made to return to their original shape when gently bent; they were not made to take stresses on their edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T20:43:19.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2011-02-15T22:21:05.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What the Expert Says...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;excellent essays&lt;/a&gt;, Don Rae says Japan should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; attack Pearl Harbor on its opening turn (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/essay1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Essay #1&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Pearl Harbor attack (this should be obvious to all players) should be conducted, always, without exception.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this U.S. fleet is not removed, it will be used against you in the Pacific (non-optimal), or it can be driven through the Panama Canal to assist the U.S. Atlantic invasion front (optimal). Any anticipation of anything less than the optimal response movement from the U.S. player is generally considered as weak play....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this, you must always use enough forces to take out this sea zone area decisively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don then goes on to describe what units to use, which depend on whether you follow his suggestions for &amp;quot;basic&amp;quot; tactical play or &amp;quot;advanced&amp;quot; play. In the basic approach, he suggests throwing everything you've got at it except for your transports. That is, you're going to send two battleships, your sub, two fighters, and the carrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use the advanced play, Don suggests a more muted attack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 battleship (Japan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 submarine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 fighters (one from Japan, one from the carrier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 bomber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the carrier stationed off Solomon Islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-15T22:21:05.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2600" CreationDate="2011-02-16T01:40:40.500" Score="8" ViewCount="24077" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.settlers-strategy.com/settlers_of_catan_expansion_strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I've read a few reviews&lt;/a&gt;, and these are the things I've picked up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;game will be longer. This is totally fine and normal, but I'm curious, what's the average time increase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ports are a little less valuable and harder to get, and trade with other players increases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intermediate building between turns makes the robber a little weaker because its easier to get rid of resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these accurate? What other differences have you noticed when playing with 5 or 6 people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:04:20.230" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T20:54:44.643" Title="How is Settlers of Catan different when playing with the 5-6 player expansion?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2598" CreationDate="2011-02-16T03:18:04.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The time increase depends a LOT on who is playing. But probably double a normal game. I think the fun payoff of the extra people is worth it, though. There are still only one each of longest road and largest army, with two more people, so those tend to get stolen a bit more.&#xA;I suppose the increase in shoreline is not quite in direct proportion to the increase in acreage, but I don't think ports are dramatically different. You add real estate to make up for the added players, so the overall ease of getting good position is about the same, I think.&#xA;Building in-between turns is probably the biggest contributor to the game going longer, since you have an extra phase to do it in. That said, if everybody knows what they want it can go pretty fast. And yeah, it can save you from the robber, although IMO the robber would be way overpowered if you couldn't do it.&#xA;I think that 5-6 is the most fun when you do it with Seafarers, perhaps the scenario with the fog-of-war, since now you can have everybody exploring in different directions. Pretty cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T03:18:04.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2594" CreationDate="2011-02-16T08:42:41.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard some praising reviews of &lt;b&gt;shuffling machines&lt;/b&gt;.  I don't know how well they work with sleeved cards, but they are very quick, easy to use and fair.  They aren't prohibitively expensive either, and could certainly be justified for casual use if you play a lot of card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T08:42:41.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2602" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-16T11:05:17.083" Score="10" ViewCount="10665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to find a simple game in which several people need to interact with each other. The game should be simple for an analysis (it should be simple to describe what happens in the game, what players did). Because of this last reason, video games are not appropriate for my purposes. I am thinking of a simple, schematic, strategic game where people can make a limited set of simple moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, the moves of the game should not be conditioned only by a pure logic (like in chess or go). The behavior in the game should depend on psychological factors, on relations between people. In more detail, I think it should be a cooperation game where people make their decisions based on mutual trust. It would be nice if players can express punishment and forgiveness in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody knows a game that is close to what I have described above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDED&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As requested, I would like to provide more details. I do want to use a game for experimental purposes. To elaborate, my hypothesis is that people play differently depending on who their partner is in the game. Or, in other words, a player's strategies depend on their interpersonal relations. It is a very general statement. At the moment I do not know what kind of interpersonal relations can exist. In the simplest case we can speak about &quot;friends&quot; and &quot;strangers&quot; (people who know or do not know each other). Another aspect of interpersonal relations I can think of is trust. People can play differently depending on the level of trust between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a game that captures several aspects of interpersonal relations. The repeated Prisoner Dilemma game is close to what I need. But I am afraid that it is too trivial (people will just cooperate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="909" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T03:31:27.807" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T04:53:07.787" Title="Simple games that involve psychological factors?" Tags="|recommendations|psychology|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:33:36.387" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-02-16T13:48:38.650" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot think of a better game to match what you describe than &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/483/diplomacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Diplomacy&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt;. It requires seven players, and it is lengthy. You can speed it up by having all the negotiation happen at the table in front of everyone, but that changes the nature of the game. However, there are plenty of places on the internet where you can play &quot;by email&quot; for free (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://diplom.org/index.py&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;The Diplomatic Pouch&quot;&gt;The Diplomatic Pouch&lt;/a&gt;) -- there, you can enter games all by yourself, but the time taken to play a game typically spreads out over days, weeks, or months (because you spend a few days emailing negotiation letters, before each time you &quot;submit orders&quot; for the next turn's actions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diplomacy's rules do include strategy, and the rules are quite simple. The game has been around for fifty years, so there are lots of online resources describing various strategies and tips and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that BoardGameGeek has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamecategory/1026/negotiation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Negotiation games&quot;&gt;Negotiation&lt;/a&gt; style category for boardgames, and there are lots of other games listed in it; many would be suitable for fewer players and less playing time, but Diplomacy is pretty much the prototypical experience for what you describe in my opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-16T19:02:46.870" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T19:02:46.870" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1691" CreationDate="2011-02-16T16:48:55.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rob's answer on using a large population database to evaluate the roll of luck is absolutely the way to go--assuming this data is available. But the question also seems interested in how to evaluate the roll of luck during game design, when no such data is available. In this context, the question is about how to model or simulate a game to test the mechanics. The answer depends on the type of game being evaluated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Trial and Error&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The least satisfying method because it's so slow. Basically this means play testing to see if something rewards luck too much (based on the designers desire for luck/skill balance). Unfortunately since we're talking about luck you might have to play a lot to get a good feel for the balance. Basically you're generating Rob's database yourself. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Statistical analysis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more appropriate for modeling portions of games that involve dice--or a similar randomization mechanism. In a game like Arkham Horror (or even Risk) it's easy to test out individual battles (or write a computer program to do it) and quantify the impact of a change to the rules. This might be useful for making sure a custom Arkham character isn't too weak or too powerful, or if you were experimenting with a different Risk combat engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest to implement computer-based method is &lt;strong&gt;Monte Carlo&lt;/strong&gt; simulation: use a random number generator to simulate a single battle, then re-seed the generator and run it again; repeat tons of time and calculate statistics on the results. Such tools exist for games like Axis and Allies, but if you were savvy you could code one up yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Situational analysis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I just made this term up, but it's supposed to explain looking at a certain game situation and determining to what extent luck could influence the outcome--usually by bounding the best and worst case outcomes and seeing how large the variance is. Similarly, you can evaluate the extent to which the player can tailor their game play to insulate themselves from risk. Games that enable or encourage conservative play and that ultimately reward the more skilled player can greatly reduce the influence of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in a game of Axis and Allies where multiple aircraft are being shot at by an AA gun, the swing between best- and worst-case outcomes is huge: its varies from total annihilation to no damage. Obviously in this case luck can play a huge factor. That said, an experienced player over-matched verses their opponent probably shouldn't use aircraft to attack territories defended with AA guns. They know if they wait it out they'll win eventually and shouldn't take the risk of letting the dice even the playing field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-16T16:48:55.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-16T21:00:41.013" Score="7" ViewCount="5294" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shuffling question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2594/what-is-a-safe-and-accurate-technique-for-shuffling-cards&quot;&gt;What is a safe and accurate technique for shuffling cards?&lt;/a&gt; reminded me of a recent game of Munchkin with many expansions that taxed our shuffling endurance to the limit.  My wife picked up a cheap shuffler locally but it has several problems:  The left side doesn't draw cards as effectively as the right, so it always has remaining cards.  It also deposits the cards into an annoying tray which is difficult to remove and prone to spilling the cards.  It actually takes far longer to rotate a normal deck through the machine than to riffle it by hand.  We had hoped it would speed up Cribbage games (with many short hands) but we went right back to alternating between two decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can anyone recommend an effective, fast card shuffling machine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:48:37.207" Title="Please recommend a good shuffling machine" Tags="|shuffling|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:16:21.300" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafia_(party_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mafia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is a party game I've played which I've discovered was actually designed by a Russian psychologist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also commonly known as &lt;strong&gt;Werewolf&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Assassin&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Witch Hunt&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person is a moderator. Everyone else is dealt a card that gives them their &lt;strong&gt;secret role&lt;/strong&gt; as a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Roles:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Townspeople&lt;/strong&gt; (The &lt;strong&gt;innocents&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mafia&lt;/strong&gt; (Who win by killing off the&#xA;innocents)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sheriff&lt;/strong&gt; (An innocent who&#xA;can detect mafia members)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nurse&lt;/strong&gt; (An innocent who can protect other&#xA;innocents from attack)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two phases of the game, night and day. During the night the moderator tells everyone to close their eyes (the villagers are asleep.) There is then some general tapping by everyone involved to mask movement. Then the moderator tells the &lt;strong&gt;Mafia&lt;/strong&gt; to wake up and acknowlege each other. Wordlessly, they must choose someone to &amp;quot;assassinate&amp;quot; (i.e. remove from the game.) They silently gesture until they show unanimity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next the &lt;strong&gt;Sheriff&lt;/strong&gt; wakes up. He is asked to point out someone as a suspect. If the suspect is indeed Mafia, the moderator nods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sheriff is told to go back to sleep, then the &lt;strong&gt;Nurse&lt;/strong&gt; wakes up. She is told to point out someone to protect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the day phase begins. Everyone is told to &amp;quot;wake up&amp;quot;, open their eyes, and the moderator reveals who was assassinated (unless that person was protected by the Nurse.) For the enjoyment of all, this is embellished with narrative detail, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the players deliberate over who should be nominated for execution. Once the deliberation is over the moderator asks for a vote and whoever gets the most votes is &amp;quot;lynched&amp;quot; and removed from play. In some variants of the game (the way we played we did this) that player's card is flipped over so everyone knows the accused's true role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends either when the last &lt;strong&gt;Mafia&lt;/strong&gt; member is killed (Innocent victory) or the Mafia members outnumber or equal the &lt;strong&gt;Innocents&lt;/strong&gt; during the day (Mafia victory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I played it with several families, I found especially fascinating the interaction between spouses, and between spouses and their children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't take that long to play, and I think it might be close to what you're looking for. The Wikipedia article I linked in the heading has many different variations including additional roles that you can tweak to investigate what you want. One variant we played was a &lt;strong&gt;Spy&lt;/strong&gt; role, an innocent who was able to peek at any one person's role card each night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T19:49:59.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-02-17T01:32:40.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Modified Iterated Prisoner's Dilemma&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think an ideal co-operative game for your experiment is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prisoner%27s_dilemma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Iterated Prisoner's Dilemma&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is substantial literature in the field of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Experimental_economics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;experimental economics&lt;/a&gt; on this game, and ample &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nash_equilibrium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;theoretical&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prisoner%27s_dilemma#Iterated_prisoners_dilemma_experiments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;experimental&lt;/a&gt; bases for determining optimal play strategies. These experiments can form a baseline control group (as they are typically played with strangers) for you to compare your results to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned that you think the game is too simple and that people will simply co-operate. However, the experimental results show that for strangers this is not true. Tit-for-tat is one of the best strategies, yet even this only works if both players use it and if the game has indeterminate length. So I think it would be significant if the experimental results demonstrated alternative optimal playing strategies given non-stranger relationships.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The game is simple to play and players can quickly gain an intuitive feel for how they're doing. Compare this to a game like Diplomacy, where teaching your subjects to play with any skill is going to consume enormous amounts of time (unless you drew from a pool of experienced gamers, which would probably introduce unacceptable bias into the results anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be fascinated to see this kind of experiment with various types of uni-lateral and bi-lateral relationships:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strangers (baseline)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uni-lateral stranger: player A knows and trusts player B, but B thinks that A is a stranger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;false pretenses: player A plays many games with a fake player B who always co-operates, but then B is switched out part-way through the game for someone more nefarious&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perfect collusion: players who know each other very well or who are required to evenly split their winnings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perfect collusion with mutation: same as above, but sometimes, randomly, the computer switches their choice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sympathy: player A is given back story on B that B is a nun or an orphan or something else sympathetic and told that B gets to keep their winnings but A will not (hypothesis that A might as well co-operate because they have nothing to lose but has the ability to help B in the &quot;real world&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T03:20:59.453" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T03:20:59.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2605" CreationDate="2011-02-17T02:06:34.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000B6ACGA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6-deck shuffling machine&lt;/a&gt;. I can highly recommend it for the specific circumstances we purchased it for: shuffling lots (4 decks) of expendable (i.e. cheap to replace) cards. We just run the decks through, cut a few times, and repeat. Say 3 or 4 times. It fed evenly from each side for us, but I could see an identical model not not working as well; it's not like its precision machinery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We like it because the only real way to shuffle that many cards by hand is to split the deck up into multiple piles to be shuffled by humans and then combined, re-parsed out, and reshuffled. This way is much faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons I would not recommend this machine for your purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's not worth the trouble to load it for a single deck (although for Munchkin with expansions perhaps it would work)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it also has a tray, although we didn't have problems with it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's murder on cards (they're technically riffled, but get slammed together so hard the edges start to break down) we replaced the decks fairly frequently&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you still have to strip, since this machine only riffles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokerchips.com/poker_card_shufflers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;professional models&lt;/a&gt; that riffle and strip, but they're expensive, like $500 instead of the $15 we paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T02:06:34.097" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1467" CreationDate="2011-02-17T14:05:33.420" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In chess draws are not usually arbitrarily decided.  There are very specific conditions that trigger draws.  The most common is just the kings (and a knight or bishop) remaining.  This is the only time a draw should be accepted.  Any situation that is not listed as a read draw should be played out.&#xA;Chess games cannot be stuck if all rules are followed including the automatic draw for repeating a situation on the board, and people knowing basic mates (like the queen king mate)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do they happen often in high level play?&#xA;In chess the black side is considered at a disadvantage and in a very high level game is playing for the draw.  So the goal of a grand master is often, win all white games and draw all black games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-17T16:08:19.813" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T16:08:19.813" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1153" CreationDate="2011-02-17T17:58:19.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something I think is important, mainly because I think it's the reason why &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; win more games than I lose, is &lt;strong&gt;adaptability&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first, basic step in being good at boardgames is being able to get on top of, and not be confused by, the rules.  But just because you know all the rules doesn't mean you're out of the woods yet!  In my experience, a lot of players, having comprehended the rules, will locate what they think is a strong strategy and then repeatedly play that strategy.  And at first this will probably pay off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good boardgame, though, doesn't have a completely dominant strategy.  Any strategy should fall when met with an appropriately strong counter-strategy.  A bad player, when their strategy starts getting repeatedly thwarted, may blame bad luck for the sudden downturn in their fortunes.  (Actually, let me add this to my list of prime indicators of boardgaming talent: &lt;strong&gt;never blaming bad luck for a loss&lt;/strong&gt;.  Always looking back for a way you could have turned the game in your favour is a much better sign.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great boardgames player not only quickly understands what is likely to be a strong strategy in a game, he is also able to see numerous other strong or potentially strong strategies at once.  When he loses, he will be able to understand what weaknesses of his strategy permitted it to be undermined; he will refactor his strategy accordingly or try out a new one in the next game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A really strong player can see his strategy starting to be undermined as it happens and be able to &lt;em&gt;switch to a different strategy&lt;/em&gt; mid-stream.  When you have a counter-strategy planned, or can quickly create one, for any possible counter-strategy to your strategy adopted by your opponent, then you are what I'd call truly &quot;adaptable&quot;.  And I'm a little bit scared about the possibility of you joining my group and beating me lots!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T17:58:19.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-02-17T18:51:04.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Food&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poker and other games of chance can be played for fun using small foods.  Cookies and M&amp;amp;Ms are pretty good, though people concerned with germs and crumbs may prefer to use fun-size wrapped candies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting advantage of playing with mixed candies is that since different people like different candy, each &amp;quot;chip&amp;quot; takes on unique, asymmetrical value.  Some people will gladly gamble off their Milky Ways if it means a shot at winning some delicious mini Snickers, and vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful not to eat away all your stakes before you've had a chance to win more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T18:51:04.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:12:59.310" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from what others have said, certain variations of poker also take on very different aspects depending on the wagering structure and if there are stakes to back it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A clear example would be Texas Hold 'Em, as played in one of three variations: Limit Ring Games, No-Limit Ring Games, and No-Limit Single Table Tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ring game is a &quot;sit down, buy in for some chips, and play&quot; kind of game.  Each chip has a real, 1-to-1 correlation to a value of money.  In a tournament game, sometimes called a Sit-and-Go, players all pay a set wager (say $10 flat) and get a set number of chips (say $10,000 worth of chips).  Players compete until only one is left holding all the chips, and then the last few out (usually the top 3 players) get paid a percentage of the total stake.  In a tournament, the required bet (the blinds) will increase constantly to add pressure to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way that each game is played, and the psychology of the players, varied quite a bit from each game type. In a Limit Ring game, top players will tend to be very technical in play.  Since there is a limit to how much a bet can be, the correct play (check, call, fold, bet, raise) can be evaluated purely on a risk-vs-reward basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a No Limit ring game, any bet amount is allowed at any time, but this actually makes most players very cautious.  Since each chip is equivalent to real money, most feel an attachment to it and are afraid to bet too much, lest they risk a lot of money.  Good players can use that restraint to &quot;steal pots&quot; by wagering a large amount and scaring people into folding.  In contrast to the methodical play of Limit games, No Limit games require a bit of savvy in knowing how much to bet. Too much and you over extend yourself or scare off players.  Too little and lots of players call your wager, and you risk that one of them will luck into a better hand than you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, in contrast to both the Ring game types are tournament games.  A tournament still has the allure and risk of real money, but diluted into a large number of chips.  It can almost feel like play money at times, and the play reflects this.  Weak players will often wager all their chips on a long-shot, basically hoping to win a coin toss and win a big pot.  A typical tournament game goes through stages: an early game where good players play safe while loose players bust out, a mid game that resembles Ring play, and a late game of high-stakes bluffing and luck to try and be the last one at the table.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, that was a bit long, but what I'm trying to express is this. It's not just the notion of real money being at stake that affects the way a game of poker is played, but also the structure of the game and how much &quot;per chip&quot; value the players have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T19:12:59.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2617" CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:31:47.577" Score="1" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you play an item card (like a Barrel) if you don't already have one, but someone else does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T21:00:42.447" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T21:00:42.447" Title="Unique Item Cards in Bang?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2625" CreationDate="2011-02-17T19:33:47.980" Score="3" ViewCount="2778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several of the characters in the game have special rules that allow them to do things when they are damaged.  For example, one character, when &quot;damaged by another player&quot; may then draw a card from their hand.  Do these abilities trigger only when directly damaged by another player (i.e., Bang!) or do they also trigger off of effects like Duel! (which deal damage, but lack the Bang! icon) or even effects like Indians (wherein every player who does not discard a card loses a bullet)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T20:59:43.817" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T20:59:43.817" Title="Character Specials Triggering on Non Bang Cards?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2615" CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:40:15.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly you can.  Per the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;no player can ever have two identical&#xA;  cards face up in front of him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no restriction on an identical card being face up in front of &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; person!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:40:15.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2616" CreationDate="2011-02-17T20:43:59.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the copy of the rules I've consulted, El Gringo's rules text begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time he loses a life point due to&#xA;  a card played by another player...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's pretty clear from that that, as long as a card was played that can be held responsible for damaging him, El Gringo's special power will trigger.  Whether or not the damage was &quot;direct&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T20:43:59.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1467" CreationDate="2011-02-17T21:33:38.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general whether playing a &quot;serious&quot; (i.e. tournament, rated game) or playing casually a draw should be considered when a game is no longer interesting but isn't a clear victory by one side (which is when in either tournament or casual play the losing side should realize this and probably should resign).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I mean by &quot;no longer interesting&quot; - this will vary by your level of skill but it isn't uncommon at all for players a high level to try out an opening variation but if via their opponents play the game transposes into a position known from past games and openings both players may decide that they should call it a draw and in a casual situation play another game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual play there are many types of games people play - casual games without a clock can take almost literally any amount of time both players want to dedicate to it (if play by mail this could be months or even years) but in person it is polite to play reasonably quickly and to offer (and accept) a draw when the game bogs down or shifts into a fairly known area especially if the goal of playing is to explore new avenues of play between players of nearly equal strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual games with a chess clock (which could be speed chess or could just be close to a tournament speed) again draws may be offered when the game is falling into a duller, more repetitive pattern - but the opportunity to win via time often means that one player or the other may have a real advantage and often presses that even in an otherwise drawlike situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to be a very serious chess player - my favorite non-accepted draw came in a team tournament, the last of the season when I was in high school. I offered a draw to my opponent even though I was slightly down in pieces (but had some advantages in position) because I knew that my team's position would not be effected by a draw or my win and I knew that my opponent would advance to the end of the year individual tournament if he accepted my draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However he either forgot that or decided to press his luck and he turned my draw offer down. But then proceeded to fall into time pressure and in a few short moves he lost his queen and I won the game handily (though on later analysis with correct play he should have beaten me at the time I offered him the draw - but in time pressure he was unlikely to have found the right set of moves to do so as the position was highly dynamic) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offering a draw and NOT playing a game to the very bitter end is also a mark of respect to the other player - whether in a tournament or in casual play. Knowing when a game is drawn and equally importantly knowing when you have likely lost the game is a sign of a chess player of some skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the signs of chess players of less skill tends to be that they play every game to the bitter (and often for more serious chessplayers observing painfully slow) end. This isn't to say that you should resign or should offer (or accept) a draw when down a bit or when in a seemingly disadvantageous situation but it is to say that you should recognize when the game is mostly equally balanced and rather than play for dozens or more moves and often hours more, take (or offer) a draw (or if losing resign) and play another game. You will learn far more in the long run when you learn to recognize the difference between games which still have a lot of dynamic possibilities and games where they are drawn or where one side has a clear path to victory (even if it isn't a forced checkmate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disagree, strongly, with the other answer that suggests the only times when a chess game should be drawn is when it is technically a forced draw (i.e. neither side has sufficient pieces for a mate). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all else chess when played casually should be fun. Playing games out to their bitter end is rarely fun for both players and should be avoided.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-02-17T21:33:38.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2621" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-18T02:02:59.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why no more recommendation questions?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;There was extended discussion on the Board and Card Games Meta site regarding whether or not to support/tolerate/allow recommendation questions. This culminated in a comprehensive ban. You can read the final decision and discussion thereof &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/656/1749&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and searching the meta site for &quot;recommendation&quot; while let you catch up on the history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some recommendation questions can be shaped into good, allowable questions.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In the comments on the meta discussion linked above, someone asked about the question &quot;What games can I play with my blind son and my seeing son?&quot; As is, this is a recommendation question that we'd rather not have. One of the issues about answers to recommendation questions is that voting is more of a popularity contest than a measure of quality, which would be an issue here. However, reworked as &quot;How can I play games with both my seeing children and blind son?&quot; it becomes a question where more ideas could be shared, often with specific examples to back them up. There's a strong possibility of more helpful, creative answers that could be voted on somewhat objectively. That said, if you're just interested in finding more deck-building games like Dominion, try some of the resources below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where should I go for game recommendations?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/49/board-and-card-games&quot;&gt;The Board and Card Games Chat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a great place to ask for recommendations, or to just shoot the breeze with other board gamers. Don't be discouraged if no one's there, just leave a message and people will tag you in responses so you get notified.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boardgame Geek&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; has lists and reviews, lets you search games by categories such as number of players, game mechanic, and appropriate age, and forums where you can ask for all the opinions you want. Most online retailers selling games have reviews and can help you find games similar to others that you like.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Friendly Local Game Store:&lt;/strong&gt; Do a search, you might be surprised at how many there are. Other customers and the staff are great people to talk to about what you like, and they can usually help you find something and even let you try it out before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T06:29:00.853" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T06:29:00.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2622" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-18T02:02:59.590" Score="0" Body="Do Not Use&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Generally off-topic. Suggestions for games that meet specific requirements. (tag exists primarily for historical reasons)" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T16:29:09.580" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T16:29:09.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11390" CreationDate="2011-02-18T02:30:07.177" Score="30" ViewCount="37797" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Hearts, before three out of every four hands you get to pass three cards to another player. Some people seem to always pass the Queen of Spades while others like to keep her under certain conditions. Some people like to drain themselves of a suit, while others seem to like ditching hearts as a top priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategies/considerations do you evaluate when deciding what to pass, and why? Does your decision depend on if you're passing left, right, or across?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T18:03:36.990" Title="What are effective strategies for passing cards in Hearts?" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:18:21.307" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with most strategy games, I don't think there's an optimal way to answer this.  I tend to focus on what cards I want to keep.  I'll address a non-Shoot-The-Moon hand because that's the majority of hands I play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like the Ace of Clubs.  Having the early lead puts you in control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I prefer to void Clubs or Diamonds as soon as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I won't ever pass 2 through Jack of Spades to void the suit.  That leaves you open to get passed a single high spade that might stick you with the Queen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll hold the Queen of Spades if it's protected by several other spades and I can easily void another suit.  Otherwise, I say pass it so you reduce the risk of being stuck with it.  Again, it's about being in control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like holding A-2 of Diamonds.  I'll pass middle Diamonds to set that up.  You can usually win an early trick (before Hearts are broken) with the Ace, then lead the 2 (or similar low card) to void the suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't mind holding a high Heart or two.  At worst it's 4-8 points, and you have a play to stop a Shoot-the-Moon by someone else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never really considered &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; I'm passing cards.  I probably should, but I'm not serious enough of a player to learn why it might matter.  My main goal is &lt;strong&gt;flexibility&lt;/strong&gt;.  Unless I'm holding 2-5 of each suit, I'd rather not have to play follow-the-leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2011-02-18T04:23:31.520" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T04:23:31.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2616" CreationDate="2011-02-18T04:57:10.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer given is correct. If you consult the rulebook in the Bullet, which gives great explications of the character abilities, it says the following about El Gringo: &quot;each time he loses a life point due to a card played by another player, he draws a random card from the hands of that player (one card for each life point). If that player has no more cards, too bad!, he does not draw. Note that Dynamite damages are not caused by any player.&quot; Thus, any card played by another player that damages El Gringo, besides Dynamite, enables El Gringo to take a card from the attacker's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for Bart Cassidy, who for &quot;each time he loses a life point, he immediately draws a card from the deck.&quot; Thus, he draws a card for when he is hit by Indians!, BANG!, Gatling, etc. Since this character ability's activation is not specific to cards being caused by other players, if Bart Cassidy has Dynamite explode on him (and he survives), he draws 3 cards from the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interesting in BANG! modding, custom expansions, strategy, variants, card production, and FAQS, check out The BANG! Blog (http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com). TB!B released Death Mesa, and is also working to release Robber's Roost, both unofficial expansions to BANG!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user914" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T04:57:10.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2011-02-18T14:10:41.273" Score="15" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never try to pass away all your spades.  If someone then passes you the Queen, you have a high chance of getting stuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, never pass away a bunch of low hearts.  This again leaves you open to catching lots of unwanted tricks if you are passed the high ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only pass the Queen of Spades if you don't have a bunch of other spades;  having other spades makes you more likely to be able to drop the Queen (and only the Queen) at the most devastating moment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can completely get rid of all (or all high) cards of a certain suit, do it IF that suit is Diamonds or Clubs.  Don't do it otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T14:10:41.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:18:35.457" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're not trying to &lt;strong&gt;Shoot the Moon&lt;/strong&gt;, I usually approach it from the strategy of trying to take as few tricks as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you short yourself out of a non-Spades suit? The sooner you can be out of a suit, the sooner you can be dumping high cards from other suits (or just unloading hearts in general).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have spades, look at tossing the K&amp;amp;A - they're just plain dangerous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have the Queen of Spades, you need to decide if you're likely to be able to dump it on someone else. (If you had Q &amp;amp; K or A and are passing left, you can set them up as a patsy, for instance). If not, toss the sucker. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're short on clubs, feel free to hold on to one and pass a higher card from another suit. Since you always start on clubs &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you can't take points on the first hand, one club is always safe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-19T06:32:43.667" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T06:32:43.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2598" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:32:33.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it's slightly easier to get boxed in - even with the additional real estate, there's still only a few sweet spots that everyone will cluster around and fight over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ports are slightly less valuable, but I find that's balanced by the fact that most players avoid the water so you have more room to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T17:32:33.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-02-18T17:38:03.147" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old &quot;you can mulligan if you don't have lands in hand&quot; rule was killed fairly early on, because players would build decks with no lands (Moxes and other artifacts for mana instead), and then legally mulligan over and over until they drew their perfect hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T17:38:03.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1296" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:32:45.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Foam core board and spray adhesive&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem. The board in my case wasn't creased, but it was printed on flimsy card stock. The board was black so I bought a sheet of black foam core from a hobby store (Michaels in my case, but they carry it at Target, Staples, and many others). I sprayed the back of the game board with some spray adhesive and glued it to the foam core board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either cut the foam board to size before gluing or after. I cut it before and it seemed to work okay, although it made lining up the board during gluing pretty critical and difficult. I found a sharp Exacto knife was the best way to cut the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have several options about how to mount it: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cut the foam board to full-size obviously you won't be able to fit the board in the original box. Perhaps you don't care; or it could be a deal-breaker. If you don't care, this is the best option as it will take the most wear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could cut the board at the seam (leaving you with two mounted boards that will lie flat but won't be connected). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could leave the board uncut but cut two pieces of foam and glue them to each side of the crease. This will enable the board to fold in on itself and the two halves will be connected by the crease. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to above, you could try and cut through only the foam core backing and the foam, but not cut through the facing sheet that you intend to glue to. This would supply one more layer of paper connecting the halves besides the game board itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:32:45.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-02-18T18:55:48.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a well-designed deck, the possibility of a truly unplayable hand is small.  The possibility becomes vanishingly small after a single mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, there really should never be a need to mulligan more than once (unless you're fishing for your golden starting hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being down a single card is NOT a &quot;significant disadvantage&quot; - it's relatively minor.  The current mulligan rules are established in such a way to discourage fishing for gold while not preventing a relatively fair start for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T18:55:48.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2011-02-18T19:16:23.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are good but I'll also add, never pass your highest heart if it is J or higher. Otherwise, you are handing the other person a moon shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="917" LastActivityDate="2011-02-18T19:16:23.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-02-19T16:35:52.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jungle_Speed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jungle Speed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very nice game revolving around turning cards with similar symbols and grabbing a wooden totem in the middle of the table if cards match up. Very easy to learn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caution: you might get injured, especially when playing with people with long fingernails - you are warned!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="132" LastActivityDate="2011-02-19T16:35:52.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2649" CreationDate="2011-02-19T22:41:42.903" Score="3" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Battlestar Galactica, there is a card (Political Prowess) whose text reads thusly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play before making a skill check triggered by a location.  Do not make the skill check; instead, it automatically passes or fails (your choice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another player is in the Brig.  He wishes to escape, so he attempts to activate the location.   Can I use this card to force him to autofail the check and remain in captivity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:10:35.467" Title="Political Prowess someone else's activation?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|exodus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2011-02-20T00:06:35.910" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your card-passing strategy should also take into account the opponent you're passing your cards to. For example, if you are passing to an opponent that semi-regularly tries to &lt;strong&gt;shoot the moon&lt;/strong&gt;, make sure you aren't playing into their hand. For example, don't pass them the Ace, Queen, and Jack of Hearts. Mix in a low heart or a mid-range non-heart card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T00:06:35.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2636" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-20T02:41:44.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hearts is a trick-based card game where the players compete against each other to avoid taking Hearts and the Queen of Spades. It is played with a standard deck of cards and typically 4 people, although variants exist for other numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point is awarded for each heart and 13 for the Queen of Spades, but it is possible to take all 26 points and shoot the moon, which subtracts 26 points from your score (or gives 26 to each opponent). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winner is the player with the lowest score when the first player reaches 100 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T05:05:55.337" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T05:05:55.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2637" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-20T02:41:44.720" Score="0" Body="Hearts is a trick-based card game where the players compete against each other to avoid taking Hearts and the Queen of Spades." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T05:05:59.487" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T05:05:59.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2638" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-20T03:01:19.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions about do-it-yourself aspects of board and card gaming. Question may include discussions about how DIY change impact gameplay or balance, but should focus on the physical creation of game materials. For example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to manufacture custom cards, miniatures, boards, or other game materials to replaced lost or damaged materials, improve on what came in the box, or for use in a homemade game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to extend the life of poorly made game components (e.g. card sleeves, board mounting, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to build custom characters to expand a game like &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'arkham-horror'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkham-horror&lt;/a&gt;, or custom cards for a game like &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions purely focused on rule changes not concerned with physical game materials are more appropriate for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/house-rules&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'house-rules'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;house-rules&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/variants&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'variants'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;variants&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T18:01:32.213" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T18:01:32.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2639" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-20T03:01:19.337" Score="0" Body="Questions about do-it-yourself aspects of board and card gaming: questions about expanding published games, making gaming supplies, or modifying commercially bought games to extend their life or make the games easier to play" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-21T18:01:29.780" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T18:01:29.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2728" CreationDate="2011-02-20T03:14:18.583" Score="3" ViewCount="92912" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite bids in Spades are the riskiest ones: 10-for-2, nil, and blind nil. 10-for-2 is always worth 200 points, and most rule sets I've seen put nil at 100 and blind nil at 200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our group, we eventually had to put restrictions on these bids because they were making it too easy for people to catch up from being behind, which was diluting the value of solid play in less dramatic rounds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no bids of 10-for-2 or blind nil unless the bidding team is down by at least 100 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only one bid of blind nil per team per game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;players do not get to trade two cards if someone calls blind nil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other house-rules do people suggest for limiting the bomb effect of these three bids, or alternatively, do you not agree that it is a problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="8340" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T23:32:52.313" LastActivityDate="2019-11-19T20:44:30.660" Title="House rules for Spade bids of nil, blind-nil, and 10-for-2?" Tags="|house-rules|spades|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-02-20T05:22:29.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main rule I strongly endorse is that you only trade ONE card, on blind-nil bids only.  No trading cards in any other situation - the only purpose is to avoid the &quot;oops, guy going blind nil has the Ace of Spades&quot; case which makes the whole round more or less pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I have also frequently played with a &quot;must be X points behind&quot; rule on blind nil.  Is it really happening (successfully) so often that it overshadows all else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T05:22:29.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2011-02-20T05:26:14.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The core question here seems to be: does &quot;make a skill check&quot; refer only to yourself, or just refer to executing a skill check regardless of who triggered it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is that this phrasing usually means you can only use this on skill checks YOU triggered at a location.  The person taking the action is &quot;making the skill check&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, this card would be extremely powerful (for cases like the one you describe) if it could be used on anybody's skill check any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T05:26:14.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-02-20T17:46:12.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Hive&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is made of bakelite tiles showing different insects. On your turn, you play a tile touching the others or move one according to its specific move.  The goal is to surround the opposing queen bee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tiles are very sturdy, and there is no board, so the game is very easy to play anywere (I've played in the sand on the beach).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="923" LastEditorUserId="682" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T16:22:56.897" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T16:22:56.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2648" CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:23:50.170" Score="5" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game we just finished one player used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Images/mminorsurveyorsmap.jpg&quot;&gt;Surveyor's Map&lt;/a&gt; minor improvement.  When the field came up in round 11, he couldn't place it adjacently to his existing fields.  Should we have allowed him to place it elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T21:05:51.987" Title="Surveyor's Map in Agricola Farmers of the Moor" Tags="|agricola|agricola-farmers-of-the-moor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="959" CreationDate="2011-02-20T20:29:10.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has now officially been answered in the latest &lt;a href=&quot;http://fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-3-new.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can the result of a die roll be modified to be more than an &#xA;  “8”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No. After all modifications to a die roll have been calculated, &#xA;  any number greater than an “8” is treated as an “8.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T20:29:10.680" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2646" CreationDate="2011-02-20T21:00:34.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know there is no official ruling on this. However, most people seem to agree that the field should still obey the general rule for placing fields, i.e. it needs to be placed orthogonal to an existing field. This is for example the ruling for Surveyor's Map on page 28 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/34558/the-unofficial-agricola-compendium?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unofficial Agricola compendium&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Surveyor's Map M018&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place a field tile on the space for round 11, a moor tile on round 12, and a forest tile &gt; on round 13. At the start of the rounds, you must either place the tile on an empty space in your farm or return it to the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;=&gt; Placing the field tile does not count as a ploughing action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;=&gt; If you already have fields, you must place the field tile adjacent to an existing field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-20T21:05:51.987" LastActivityDate="2011-02-20T21:05:51.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2011-02-20T23:12:40.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe anyone can play Political Prowess before a location-based skill check, not just the current player. If not, the card doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Why would anyone activate a location and then use this card to fail the skill check? Even if the player were a Cylon, is there any location in the game which has a negative consequence for failing the check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T14:37:33.610" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T14:37:33.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-21T01:04:10.933" Score="1" ViewCount="2951" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh! has 6 phases, of which only 4 are actually visible to a player playing in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main phase 1, battle phase, main phase 2, end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally do not like the way these phases work, and am considering designing new rules that allows players to play without these phases being visible, so that there's only 1 phase where you can attack or play magic cards (and then end turn). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one problem that my friend has pointed out to be is that this changes the effectiveness of certain cards like Call of the Haunted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have no monsters on the field and the opponent has a panoply of monsters on the field, I would normally be able to save myself with Call of the Haunted. As a trap, I can activate it when the opponent attacks, and revive a strong monster to defend myself. However if the opponent has a magic card such as exiled force, they can kill my strong monster immediately, something they wouldn't be able to do in the attack phase of normal Yu-Gi-Oh! rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my solution to this is to add special exceptions to cards like Call of the Haunted, so that they or the monster they summon cannot be targeted by magic cards within the same turn as their activation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would that fix the problem of trap card balance? Are there any problems with my proposed system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some context: This is a new rule set based on Yu-Gi-Oh! rules. I don't intend to try to get anyone to play Yu-Gi-Oh! with my rules.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Some more context: Not working on existing cards, I have new cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a video demonstrating what I mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this new game note that there are no attack/main phases, just one END TURN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL1KS-qQrPw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cL1KS-qQrPw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="927" LastEditorUserId="927" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T17:35:50.860" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T06:03:18.107" Title="Designing a Yu-Gi-Oh! like card game - the game phases" Tags="|game-design|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2657" CreationDate="2011-02-21T17:16:25.847" Score="10" ViewCount="6987" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent quandary came up with some friends in a game of Ticket to Ride.  If, in the last turn, you have the cards to play a route longer than the number of trains that you have left, can you do so?  Or are you limited by your number of trains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T23:23:40.433" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T23:23:40.433" Title="At the end of the game, can you play a route that is longer than your number of trains?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2656" CreationDate="2011-02-21T17:32:11.177" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you are limited to the 45 trains you started with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, under Claiming a Route (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player may claim a route on the board by playing a set of Train Car cards that match the color and length of the route and &lt;strong&gt;then placing one of his colored trains on each space of this route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have the trains available to place on each space needed then you may not claim the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also how Days of Wonder's electronic implementation works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T17:32:11.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2666" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:37:58.523" Score="18" ViewCount="11543" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family and I have very much enjoyed playing the original Ticket to Ride, but I've noticed one issue that keeps coming up. It is very easy to be cheated out certain critical routes that could easily cost you 30+ points if they stopped you from completing a big destination card. In the American map every city has a least 3 ways out of it, but losing a critical route, even one that's only one train long in the case of Portland, can force you to use alternatives that are over 9 trains long, IF they are even available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand part of the strategy of the game is making sure you get the critical routes you need, but its gotten to the point where people want to quit if someone takes the last route out of a major city they needed as they now have almost no chance of winning. A good strategist will try to avoid this at all costs, but it seems unfair that if you get a tiny turn of bad luck at a critical point you're basically doomed to compete between last or second to last place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found in most other games, like Settlers, Citadels, Dominion, etc., even if you get a streak of bad luck you can usually find some path that will lead you to victory...if you can find it. This doesn't seem to be as true with TTR. When I was in this situation I started to focus on blocking everyone else and getting as many points as possible through 6 car routes, but I was only able to squeak out 100 points for 4th place, only beating the least experienced player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I just not played the game enough? Is there always a path to victory in TTR that will out-weigh whatever bad luck you've been hit with, be it bad train cards, terrible destination combos, or loosing critical routes? What can I do to reduce these total screw-overs to make the game slightly less cut-throat and luck based if I'm playing with new gamers? This is currently one of the few things holding TTR back from being one of my top choices &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1350/games-that-are-quick-to-teach-to-new-people-yet-still-fun-and-strategical&quot;&gt;as an intro game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some of my ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can create a duplicate route between any two cities that can only be claimed with the same number of locomotives. This would help if you lost that critical one-train route, but would still make you pay for not claiming it earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can always create new routes by using twice as many cards of the required color. This still makes claiming long routes normally important, but lets you snag that other one you needed in proportion to how difficult it was to take from you. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;add trading to the game. I know TTR was not designed with trading in mind and doesn't have the most conducive environment toward it, but it would make for a very different game and allow more ways to catch up. I'll probably start a different question for how specifically to add trading to the game and keep it as playable and well-balanced as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T14:39:37.750" Title="How to reduce total screw-overs in Ticket to Ride so there's always a potential path toward victory?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="633" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:45:55.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One obvious reason: space on the card. Squares and hexes lend themselves to game text, while it can be tricky to fit a significant amount of game text on a triangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T18:45:55.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2664" CreationDate="2011-02-21T18:47:33.840" Score="4" ViewCount="2811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion is a game of widely varying strategies and paths toward victory. But the most important part of any winning strategy is a strong opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I tell if a kingdom card is a good opening card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some of the best cards to buy in your first 4-6 turns?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some good tactics for getting to your later game strategy as soon as possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2155/evaluating-a-dominion-kingdom-set&quot;&gt;This question discusses evaluating kingdom sets in general.&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/381/what-are-good-standard-tactics-for-dominion/1309#1309&quot;&gt;this discusses general tactics.&lt;/a&gt; This is sort of a combination of both, focusing on openings. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T16:30:53.243" Title="Strategies and kingdom cards for a strong opening in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|openings|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2667" CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:08:09.860" Score="12" ViewCount="5428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been hunting everywhere for this and am leaning toward the answer being yes but can't find it explicitly stated anywhere: is his nobs (or knobs) separate from a flush in cribbage? For example, would a hand of of all hearts (1,2,3,J) and a starter card of a 4 of hearts... would you award 5 points for the flush &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a point for knobs? Or just 5 points for the flush since the matching suit of the jack and starter card are already counted in the flush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the game and thus perhaps my lack of playing with more experienced players and having this situation actually come up has not occurred. I still can't find it online. Rule sites will list a flush and knobs but not state what to do when both occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="932" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T21:25:02.030" Title="Is his nobs/knobs separate from a flush in cribbage?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2011-02-21T19:11:40.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good cards to buy early:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chapel&lt;/strong&gt;: this is close to a must-buy if it is on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sea Hag&lt;/strong&gt;: another almost must-buy so that you don't fall behind on curses. It's less valuable in a multiplayer game (because if everyone else is firing it, the curses will run out quickly, and then it just takes up space in your deck).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ambassador&lt;/strong&gt;: functionally trashing your deck while bloating your opponent with bad cards. Ambassador/Silver/Ambassador can be a devastating opening. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Militia&lt;/strong&gt;: especially in 3+ player games, this is brutal. Less effective if a Library is on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moneylender&lt;/strong&gt;: trashing + accelerating you to 5/6 coin cards. But, it can potentially clog your deck in the mid/endgame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Envoy / Smithy&lt;/strong&gt;: these cards accelerate the entire game. Big Money buys 4 provinces in 17 turns, on average. Purchasing one of these cards lowers that to 14.5 turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cutpurse&lt;/strong&gt;: also deadly in multiplayer games, but still great for slowing your opponent early. Less valuable as an attack late in the game, but it's still worth a Silver if you have actions to burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trading Post&lt;/strong&gt;: if you open 5/2, this is a great card because it trashes your junk into silvers, which also allows you to save your initial buys for non-treasure cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mining Village&lt;/strong&gt;: trash early for a 5/6 coin hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baron&lt;/strong&gt;: useful early for an easy 4 coin. Can clog a deck later in the game, but its ability to give you an extra Estate and an extra buy can sometimes tip the balance in a close game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loan&lt;/strong&gt;: useful for trashing coppers without costing an action and can also be used to cycle your deck, getting new cards shuffled in faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quarry&lt;/strong&gt;: useful if there are expensive actions in the set (King's Court, Forge, Peddler, and game-changing 6 cost cards like Goons).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pawn&lt;/strong&gt;: there are many times where the +buy or +coin will be useful; in the worst case scenario, it's a self-replacing card (+1 card/+1 action). Because it only costs 2, you probably want to buy it earlier instead of wasting a 7 coin hand on it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2011-03-04T15:35:26.593" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T15:35:26.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:24:23.820" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, there shouldn't &quot;always be a potential path towards victory&quot;.  I've never found it a big problem to get my routes finished - though obstacles and impediments are often flung in my way!  There are a few things you should be doing to ensure that you always have the best chance of success, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Obviously, don't overcommit.  Know how far 45 trains can actually get you.  Also, when calculating how many trains a route is going to take you, don't count up the optimum route.  Leave yourself plenty of wiggle room if a colour you were banking on doesn't become available... or worse, if another player starts building routes that you were planning on being the backbone of your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Don't start building too soon!  My wife often does this, starts methodically building her cross-country route from point A, slowly and steadily towards point B.  This only succeeds in giving me plenty of warning where we are likely to come into conflict in the middle.  As such, I usually have plenty of time to save up for and grab those routes, she gets mightily teed off, and I get to sleep on the couch YET AGAIN.  But really, if she didn't telegraph her plans, I wouldn't find it so easy to thwart them!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you can't fall too far behind the other players' builds, you don't want them to run out of trains way ahead of you.  But extra information is often a lot more valuable than being first out of the starting gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Conversely, if a route really is &lt;em&gt;essential&lt;/em&gt; to your plans, don't hesitate, grab it straight away.  This is particularly important in variants like Nordic Countries, where there are several key one-train routes linking the left and right halves of the board.  It's no accident that you get dealt some train cards BEFORE you have to choose which routes to take on; quite often I will only keep a route that relies on getting from one side of the board to the other if I have the right colour to snap up the link in my first turn.  Don't take risks on the really important stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I think you may be overvaluing routes.  Huge cross-country routes are worth a lot of points because they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; hard to pull off without a hitch!  One of the players in my group has what I think is a possibly better, and certainly funnier strategy: she takes a few short, simple routes at the start of the game, that can't possibly give her any trouble.  She builds those and as many random obstructive long routes as she can, bringing the game to a speedy conclusion.  Very funny when this results in people getting -50 instead of +50 points, because all their destination tickets were too ambitious in the light of this playing style...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know we've said &quot;Ticket to Ride is a well-balanced game, don't mess with it&quot;, in response to your questions before, and you haven't really appreciated it, but I really do believe it.  There's more going on delicate-game-balance-wise than I think you appreciate, and I think you should try to learn to love it for a bit longer before you tamper with it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T20:24:23.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2011-02-21T20:37:04.707" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of being good at strategy games involves dealing with bad luck.  Everybody has the same opportunity to get screwed over in TtR.  It's all in how you deal with it.  Here are some things you can do to mitigate the effects of the other players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claim your critical routes first.  I often build outward from the middle of a ticket, not from end to end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid high value tickets with lots of players.  The big ones are worth 20 points for a good reason.  It's all about risk vs. reward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider that there are other ways to score points besides completing tickets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the people in your group are getting so frustrated that they want to quit, then by all means, &lt;em&gt;play something else!&lt;/em&gt;  You don't have to use Ticket to Ride as your gateway game just because everyone else has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T20:37:04.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2663" CreationDate="2011-02-21T21:25:02.030" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nobs is counted separately. It will always be one extra point if it is in your hand or in the crib. Likewise, nibs (if a jack is cut for the dealer) is always two points, and the dealer still gets to count the jack for a flush if the suit matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section7&quot;&gt;Rules of Cribbage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T21:25:02.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:07:07.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6249/alhambra&quot;&gt;Alhambra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic game has very little variation and really only two methods to score victory points... buy buildings and place them so you have long walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansions each add some small element to the game, many of which are alternate methods of scoring victory points, but some of them are minor gameplay changes which create more interesting variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bazaars as an example, are a tile which are more valuable the more tiles of particular types that are adjacent to it.  Treasure Chamber lets you buy and stow chests in your Alhambra for VPs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand the expansion with coins gives you change for overpaying for tiles!  These little things help make an otherwise fairly humdrum tile drawing game into something pretty cool.  Or the thief you can use to steal money cards when it's not your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple expansions and each comes with four of these game play elements and they are completely independent of one another.  So you don't have to own them all, or even play with more than one or two of them.  You can have a bit of variety every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="167" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T23:07:07.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:13:47.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trash your cards!&#xA;Get a trashing card, and max out its trashing capacity every time, even if you think, &quot;Oh, but I might need that copper later&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T23:13:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:14:49.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thrash your opponents' decks.&#xA;If there is a Curse-dealing card, be the first to get it, and get as many Curses in other people's decks as possible. This hurts them, and protects you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T23:14:49.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:19:17.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various combos&#xA;Big Money combined with a card-drawing strategy will usually beat out a plain Big Money, and of course there are tons of great combos or specific cards that can boost your ability to get to your mid-game very quickly. However, this answer is very supply-dependent, and what you really need to do is take a minute at the beginning of the game to decide what cards will play well with others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-02-21T23:19:17.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2672" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:44:25.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt; is an entirely card-based game of empire building and struggle. Players settle and conquer worlds, construct economic and military developments, and produce and consume goods to power their empire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following expansions add new cards, rules and additional players to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/34499/race-for-the-galaxy-the-gathering-storm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Gathering Storm&lt;/a&gt; - Cards, goals, solo play, extra player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/40210/race-for-the-galaxy-rebel-vs-imperium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rebel vs Imperium&lt;/a&gt; - Cards, goals, military takeover rules, extra player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/66121/race-for-the-galaxy-the-brink-of-war&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Brink of War&lt;/a&gt; - Cards, goals, prestige, drafting rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2186/how-do-the-expansions-for-race-for-the-galaxy-alter-the-game-are-they-worth-buy&quot;&gt;How do the expansions for Race for the Galaxy alter the game - are they worth buying?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; for more information about the expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/games.html?id=240&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Free open source &lt;a href=&quot;http://keldon.net/rftg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;computer game&lt;/a&gt; implementation with smart AI&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T00:07:19.720" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T00:07:19.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2673" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-21T23:44:25.990" Score="0" Body="Race for the Galaxy is an entirely card-based game of empire building and struggle. Players settle and conquer worlds, construct economic and military developments, and produce and consume goods to power their empire." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T00:07:22.433" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T00:07:22.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2676" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:10:34.020" Score="31" ViewCount="20808" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Ticket to Ride to play at our monthly game night, which consists of three couples, i.e. six people. Stupid me, didn't read the five player limit before ordering the game. I've played a few times now, and I really like the game, but can't think of any way to accommodate an extra player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, am I stuck making someone sit out or putting two people on one team if we want to play this with six people? Or has someone else come up with some modification to make this work with one extra person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T02:15:35.023" LastActivityDate="2021-07-04T13:44:40.203" Title="Does anyone have a way to modify Ticket to Ride to accommodate six people?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:19:17.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also some similar answers on early game strategy: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2213/transitioning-to-dominion-late-game&quot;&gt;Transitioning to Dominion late-game&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2155/evaluating-a-dominion-kingdom-set&quot;&gt;Evaluating a Dominion Kingdom set&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T00:19:17.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:50:03.997" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious approach is to simply reduce the number of carriages each player has available, by enough to allow another player to join in. Normally each player has 45 carriages. In the 5 player game that makes 225 carriages available to place on the board. Divide by 6 instead, and you get 37 carriages per person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your only issue then is where to get your extra carriages. You can either make substitutions yourself, or buy one of the other versions (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31627/ticket-to-ride-nordic-countries&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Nordic Countries&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21348/ticket-to-ride-marklin-edition&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Märklin Edition&lt;/a&gt;), which come with other train colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect to see any other significant balance issues with the extra player - Ticket to Ride is a pretty straightforward game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T00:50:03.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-02-22T00:58:35.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think lilserf's suggestion is the best way to go - either eliminate passing altogether or limit it to that one worst case scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as another alternative, if your group has gotten &quot;nil-happy,&quot; perhaps you could try the &quot;suicide&quot; variation on Spades where one partner from each team is forced to go nil every round. It wouldn't eliminate the large point swings, but perhaps it would better fit some of the player's playing style in your group. Certainly changes the dynamic of the game and it's fun to mix it up every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T00:58:35.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2678" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-22T02:44:30.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9209/ticket-to-ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/a&gt; is a simple yet engaging train route building game. Players collect train carriage cards, then spend them to place routes on the shared map. Longer routes earn more points, and destination tickets provide additional bonus points for connecting more distant cities. Players must weigh up collecting additional cards and tickets against the possibility of losing routes to their competitors if they hold off for too long. Ticket to Ride won the 2004 Spiel des Jahres prize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9209/ticket-to-ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original game&lt;/a&gt; is set in North America. Several alternatives with different maps and some extra rules also exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14996/ticket-to-ride-europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Europe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21348/ticket-to-ride-marklin-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Märklin Edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31627/ticket-to-ride-nordic-countries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Nordic Countries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride also has &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Ticket_to_Ride_series&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;several expansions&lt;/a&gt; available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9209/ticket-to-ride&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:20:58.273" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:20:58.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2679" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-22T02:44:30.330" Score="0" Body="A simple yet engaging train route building game (2-5 players, 45 minutes). Players compete for overlapping routes. Tradeoffs: blocking opponents vs. completing routes, low-scoring low-risk routes vs. high-scoring risky routes." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:21:40.833" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:21:40.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2680" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:47:23.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pandemic is a cooperative game in which players work together, racing against time to combat the spread of four deadly diseases before they overwhelm the planet. Each player brings a distinct skill to bear on the problem; only through careful teamwork can they ultimately save the Earth!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players must balance fighting disease hotspots with the need to work towards global cures. The problem is complicated by unpredictable epidemic outbreaks, which intensify the urgency of the situation. Teamwork is essential; each player role is different, and provides particular advantages. For example, the Scientist can discover cures more easily than other players, while the Medic can more effectively treat outbreaks in the field. An unusual feature of the game is that all players must work together, or shared disaster for all is ensured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pandemic has three expansions, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic-on-the-brink&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic-on-the-brink&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic-on-the-brink&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic-in-the-lab&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic-in-the-lab&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic-in-the-lab&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic-state-of-emergency&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic-state-of-emergency&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic-state-of-emergency&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic-on-the-brink&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic-on-the-brink&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic-on-the-brink&lt;/a&gt; adds extra roles, 5 player rules, new events, and several 'challenges', each one a distinct twist on the base game. It also provides attractive petri dishes for disease cube storage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic-in-the-lab&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic-in-the-lab&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic-in-the-lab&lt;/a&gt; adds extra roles, new events, and a new game board that allows players to research cures in a laboratory, much like the base game, but with added complexity. In addition, it added a one-player mode and a team play mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic-state-of-emergency&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic-state-of-emergency&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic-state-of-emergency&lt;/a&gt; adds even more roles, more events, and three new challenges: The Hinterlands, Emergency Events, and Superbug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/pandemic.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website at Z-Man Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/Pandemic_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are available at Z-Man Games as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in Pandemic, you may find the following questions useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1984/what-changes-to-the-game-will-the-on-the-brink-pandemic-expansion-offer-me&quot;&gt;What changes to the game will the “On The Brink” Pandemic expansion offer me?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="13995" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T18:07:20.723" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T18:07:20.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2681" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:47:23.833" Score="0" Body="Pandemic is a cooperative game in which players work together to combat the spread of four deadly diseases before they overwhelm the planet. Each player brings a distinct skill to bear on the problem; only through careful teamwork can they ultimately save the Earth! 2-4 players, 45-60 minutes." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:04:22.817" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:04:22.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-22T03:48:06.150" Score="10" ViewCount="1606" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent question about a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2643/if-the-top-10-games-are-all-very-similar-maybe-owning-the-top-10-isnt-ideal-wh&quot;&gt;good mix of board games&lt;/a&gt; got me thinking about how one could even objectively define &quot;a good mix&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to try and define a set of attributes that could describe, compare, and contrast various board games. I hope this exercise will help me discover some attributes unrepresented by my gaming experience and achieve better insight into the common elements of my favorite games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example attribute might be &lt;strong&gt;inter-player cooperation&lt;/strong&gt;, which would slide along a continuum from fully co-operative to team-based to free-for-all, with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;arkham-horror&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkham-horror&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/axis-and-allies&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;axis-and-allies&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;axis-and-allies&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/risk&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;risk&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;risk&lt;/a&gt; being examples of each type, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think answers could either work as one-per-attribute (with votes for ones that make sense) or as a comprehensive set of attributes (with votes for the most thorough and complete answers). Comments seems like a good place to flush out the pros and cons of each approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2019-03-04T22:15:04.967" Title="What set of attributes can be used to describe, compare and contrast various board games?" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|game-development|metagame|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-03-06T07:56:32.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2683" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-22T04:34:44.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the grim darkness of the far&#xA;  future, there is only war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warhammer_40,000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Warhammer 40,000&lt;/a&gt; is a detailed futuristic table-top battle simulation. Players pick different races or factions and engage in combat over large, varied terrain boards. The game is complex and highly configurable - players choose their armies and the individual units of those armies from a wide selection, choose the squadron composition, upgrades and weapons for their troops, design and build their own terrain, and select the specific objectives of any given battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhammer 40,000 is also a complete mythos in its own right. The back-story to the game is codified in a series of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codex_%28Warhammer_40,000%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebooks&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blacklibrary.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;novels&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/whiteDwarfLanding.jsp?articleCatId=1100004a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magazine articles&lt;/a&gt;. It is extremely detailed, and is constantly evolving. A great deal of emphasis is also placed on the construction and painting of the high quality figures used in the game; for many players, the collecting, painting and personalisation aspects of the hobby are equal to or more important than the game itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2162/warhammer-40000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T06:28:50.020" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T06:28:50.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2684" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-22T04:34:44.783" Score="0" Body="In the grim darkness of the far future, there is only war. Warhammer 40,000 is a detailed futuristic table-top battle simulation." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T06:28:52.907" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T06:28:52.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2682" CreationDate="2011-02-22T06:31:36.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attributes that I use to evaluate games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replay value (Over time how much do you enjoy it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Randomness (how much it's out of your hand)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learning curve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of skill does it require (strategy, resource management, deductions, spatial orientation, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time required to set it up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expected time to have a game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time-ness (is it per turn? all at the same time? you bid for who to be first?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Degree of interaction (it's similar to what you say but it includes more things. Games like Bingo are outside of your scale)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handicap-aware (How does it react to players with different levels. Is it easy for a newbie to give by accident the game to another player?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T06:31:36.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-22T07:22:08.950" Score="7" ViewCount="1700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often, one plays a computer game through once and then is done with it. &quot;Replay-ability&quot; is something that is a great plus with a game, but not every successful one has it. But with board games, being able to play again and again is a basic necessity for its success. And some games are still loved (e.g., Monopoly and Risk) generations after they were first invented. The ultimate in replayability. Why is it that some games continue to hold lasting appeal even when society, culture, and the people themselves have changed so much since they were invented? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T16:56:39.513" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T05:12:33.210" Title="Why do some board games have long-lasting appeal?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-22T08:40:07.500" Score="3" ViewCount="4706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I eant to order some games from the USA (I live outside the US).&#xA;Is there an online store or some other site that specifies the dimensions and weight of a board game or the entire order and not just the shipping fee before checkout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank You.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="936" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T08:31:35.993" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T08:31:35.993" Title="Where can I find the dimensions and weight of a game?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2011-02-22T09:48:31.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A totally different approach would be to download the old PC game &quot;Shandalar&quot;, it was produced by wizards of the coast and should be freely available nowadays as it is quite outdated.  I played this before going out and buying a lot of decks and boosters etc. it was definitely a big factor in drawing me to the card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user937" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T09:48:31.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2011-02-22T10:29:56.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Monopoly and Risk were better than many others when they came out, so they were successful and became very widespread: now their &quot;appeal&quot; is only based on either nostalgia, or &quot;getting used to them&quot;, or &quot;not knowing the better alternatives&quot;, because overall they are very very poor games (especially Monopoly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general boardgames have a better replayability value simply because they are designed to have it, as opposite to some videogames that are (more or less) designed to be played just once. You will notice how PvP videogames usually have an higher replayability value than the PvE one: that's because playing against your friends makes the game more unpredictable than playing it against fixed opponents/levels. Since boardgames are almost exclusively PvP...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth notice that both the videogame and the boardgame industry are recently experimenting different kinds of gameplay, so what I just said is only valid up to &quot;a few years ago&quot;: now things are changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T10:29:56.307" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2696" CreationDate="2011-02-22T10:46:27.590" Score="5" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I played the original Khet a few years ago, now I notice there is a &quot;2.0 version&quot;. Could anyone point out the main differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T21:12:10.350" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T21:12:10.350" Title="What are the differences with Khet 2.0?" Tags="|edition-comparison|khet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2011-02-22T11:34:31.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to consider adding stations (or increasing the number of stations if you have Ticket to Ride: Europe) if you find the board gets too crowded and people are blocked completely from their routes too often (Note: too often. It should be allowed to happen sometimes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Train Station allows its owner to&#xA;  use one, and only one, of the routes&#xA;  belonging to another player, into (or&#xA;  out of) that city to help him connect&#xA;  the cities on his Destination Tickets.&#xA;  Stations may be built on any&#xA;  unoccupied city, even if it currently&#xA;  h&gt; as no claimed routes into it. Two&#xA;  players may never build a Station in&#xA;  the same city. Each player may build a&#xA;  maximum of one Station per turn, and&#xA;  three Stations throughout the course&#xA;  of the game. To build his first&#xA;  Station, a player plays and discards&#xA;  one Train card from his hand, and&#xA;  places one of his colored Train&#xA;  Stations on the chosen city.To build a&#xA;  second Station, the player must play&#xA;  and discard a set of two cards of any&#xA;  one color; and to buil   his third, a&#xA;  set of three Train cards of any one&#xA;  color. As usual, you can replace any&#xA;  number of cards by Locomotives. If a&#xA;  player uses the same Station to help&#xA;  connect cities on several different&#xA;  Tickets, he must use the same route&#xA;  into the city with the Station for all&#xA;  of those Tickets. The Train Station&#xA;  owner does not need to decide which&#xA;  route he will use until the end of the&#xA;  game. A player is never required to&#xA;  build any Stations. For each Station a&#xA;  player has not used, four points are&#xA;  added to his score at the end of the&#xA;  game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember that each Station played&#xA;  allows its owner to use one (and only&#xA;  one) route belonging to another player&#xA;  into that City for the purpose of&#xA;  completing a Destination Ticket. If a&#xA;  player uses the same Station to help&#xA;  connect cities on the paths of several&#xA;  different Destination Tickets, he must&#xA;  use the same route into or out of the&#xA;  city with the Station for all Tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="625" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T11:34:31.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:16:00.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Lo'oris' argument that most older well known games are still widespread mostly because they already are everywhere. How many people go out and buy chess boards compared to the number of people who simply have them around from previous generations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are some additional aspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Simplicity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience games need a good balance between complexity and depth in order to be popular. Basically the ratio of options a player has divided by the amount of rules he has to learn. A lot of games that are popular in our family are relatively easy to learn but offer a lot of possibilities in comparison. This can be illustrated especially well with games that are in very similar but somehow one of them just feels better. Compare Pachisi and Dog/Tock. The have the exact same basic concept — move your pieces around the board one time and get into the safe haven. But in all the groups I've played in Dog/Tock has completely displaced all other Pachisi variants because with a few additional rules it has become a much more interesting game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Uniqueness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most modern boardgames aim to produce a specific atmosphere or experience that is perhaps unusual for the players — a feeling they would otherwise not have. With so many games out there a lot of times games can feel similar to each other. There are countless games where you throw dice, move along a path and do something according to the field you landed on — nothing special. And then there are games that somehow manage to capture something special. For example Pandemic expertly captures the rush of working together against an overwhelming threat, Bohnanza produces an intense trading atmosphere, and games like Werewolves or Battlestar Galactica allow people to play out their mischievous and paranoid traits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a game is released that succeeds with a good combination of these two (and maybe other) aspects then it is likely to become quite popular. Of course others will try to copy and improve that mixture. Some will fail but others will eventually succeed. At that point a battle will take place between the improved qualities of the newer game and the established following of the older one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T19:53:31.433" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T19:53:31.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:19:26.663" Score="5" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to be running Magtheridon for some friends and was looking for advice in general and wondering specifically about bloods. Should I try to keep them around, or spend them on various effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will be running the raid allowing only cards that had been released at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="938" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T15:51:36.073" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T19:49:02.193" Title="WoW TCG Magtheridon Raid Strategies" Tags="|wow-tcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:22:10.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After re-reading your question, I realized that I didn't actually answer it!  I just responded to the general sentiment of feeling screwed over.  So here's a separate answer that responds to your game balance proposals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can create a duplicate route&#xA;  between any two cities that can only&#xA;  be claimed with the same number of&#xA;  locomotives. This would help if you&#xA;  lost that critical one-train route,&#xA;  but would still make you pay for not&#xA;  claiming it earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add a new turn action to create a blank route (that you would then presumably claim on your next turn), you're telegraphing to the other players that you need it.  If it's short (1-2 trains), I'd claim it immediately just to mess with you.  Maybe your group is different from mine, but I'd really be afraid of this rule leaving you feeling worse about your gameplay experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can always create new routes by&#xA;  using twice as many cards of the&#xA;  required color. This still makes&#xA;  claiming long routes normally&#xA;  important, but lets you snag that&#xA;  other one you needed in proportion to&#xA;  how difficult it was to &lt;strong&gt;take from you&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last bit implies the route was yours to begin with.  The competition for limited space is the &lt;em&gt;essence&lt;/em&gt; of Ticket to Ride.  Remember, the goal is to score more points than the next guy, not just to complete tickets.  I honestly feel like this rule would leave you with a completely different game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;add trading to the game. I know TTR&#xA;  was not designed with trading in mind&#xA;  and doesn't have the most conducive&#xA;  environment toward it, but it would&#xA;  make for a very different game and&#xA;  allow more ways to catch up. I'll&#xA;  probably start a different question&#xA;  for how specifically to add trading to&#xA;  the game and keep it as playable and&#xA;  well-balanced as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like this idea, but you'd have to be careful with it.  It could help someone catch up just as easily as it could put the leader way out in front.  I can't imagine the game designers &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt; think about it.  They probably left it out for a good reason.  But, I say try it out and let us know how it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I'd like to echo @thesun's sentiments.  Ticket to Ride is a good game.  If you constantly feel the need to modify it, then maybe you should try to find something else.  Railroad Tycoon comes to mind.  It's a much more complicated game, but you have a little more freedom about where to place your routes.  &quot;Screwosity&quot; does happen, but I've never found it to be a productive use of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T13:22:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2691" CreationDate="2011-02-22T13:57:22.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkgeek.com/geektoys/games/e739/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ThinkGeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For those of you that loved the original Khet, you're gonna just flip&#xA;  for Khet 2.0, but we'll sum up game&#xA;  play for you who are new to the game.&#xA;  In Khet 2.0 Laser Game, there are four&#xA;  types of playing pieces, and two of&#xA;  them have mirrors. Game play is&#xA;  simple, and easy to learn, as there&#xA;  are only a few movement choices. The&#xA;  goal is to eliminate your opponent's&#xA;  Pharaoh. And, you eliminate the&#xA;  Pharaoh just like they did in olden&#xA;  times - by firing a red laser! And&#xA;  this is where Khet 2.0 kicks the game&#xA;  up a notch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the original Khet, the lasers were&#xA;  part of the board. But in Khet 2.0,&#xA;  the lasers are built in to special&#xA;  Sphinx pieces that perch in the corner&#xA;  and can now rotate to change the angle&#xA;  of the beam (because of this change,&#xA;  the board is very slim and now built&#xA;  to travel)! Your laser is fired after&#xA;  your turn and bounces from mirrored&#xA;  piece to mirrored piece (always&#xA;  shooting off at a 90 degree angle). If&#xA;  the laser hits any piece on a&#xA;  non-reflective surface (with one&#xA;  exception we'll leave as a surprise),&#xA;  that piece is removed from play. If&#xA;  you eliminate your opponent's Pharaoh,&#xA;  you win. If you eliminate your own&#xA;  Pharaoh, you will be mocked for all&#xA;  time (because it is possible). Khet&#xA;  2.0 Laser Game is the next generation of the best laser game of all time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that the form factor has changed, the lasers can be rotated, and there's a new piece added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T13:57:22.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2011-02-22T19:01:57.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this simply comes down to the game mechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes a great game great, is that depending on the strategy employed by the person you are playing against, it can significantly change the outcome of the game. Not one strategy is going to last you through winning at all times, but requires you to shift and change your strategy based on the approach your opponents are playing. A good game mechanic can ensure that the available strategy for winning is varied and dynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Predictability is boring, variety is not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I am a much bigger fan of luckless games. Whilst I like to try to outsmart my opponents, I hate to lose or win by the luck of the dice or the random turn of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2011-02-22T22:17:28.750" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T22:17:28.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2687" CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:08:39.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;.  On pages for games, they have a list of all versions with the size and weight.  For example, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy#versions&quot;&gt;this entry for Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt;.  It states that pretty much all versions are 10.83 x 7.48 x 2.56 inches and 1.44 lbs.  Other games should also have version sections with similar information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="682" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T21:08:39.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-02-22T21:13:50.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a game called Warewolf, it is more a role game, where after each 'night' you have to discuss with everyone and find killers in the village, there are different roles in the game, each player gets its role on the card and has to keep hold of it till the end of the game, it is really fun game. as to board games, maybe Pandemic, where all the players battle with four different viruces spreading around the world, it is simple team game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user942" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T21:13:50.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2011-02-22T22:10:14.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something I find that helps tremendously in replayability is variable start-up. This is critical to games like Settlers of Catan and Dominion. Every time you start things are going to be very different and require a different strategy. Compare this to something like monopoly, which is going to start exactly the same and have the exact same strategies almost every time. If you've never played Dominion with a certain kingdom card, or never played Catan where you end up without any brick, its going to feel very different and re-engage you possibly as much as the first time you played it. New strategies and evaluations of new situations make up most of the difference between the game you end up playing 5-15 times and the game you end up playing 50+ times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How this variability in strategy is achieved varies as widely as board games themselves do. Dominion has different kingdom cards, Catan has variable islands, bridge has your starting hand, Carcassonne has what tiles you draw, werewolf has different personalities you're playing with, and many cooperative games have different player roles and varying threats that need to be addressed. But the more similar a game is each time you play it, the less you'll tend to want to play it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T22:10:14.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-02-22T23:05:20.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the same vein as the Mafia and Werewolf suggestions, I'd suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41114/the-resistance&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Resistance&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't have the player elimination that Werewolf or Mafia has, which means you have more ongoing relationships throughout the game to study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In The Resistance, the players are a resistance cell fighting against the empire. Some number of the players (1-3, depending on the total number of players) are spies trying to sabotage the resistance in their fight. There are 5 possible missions in the game. Either side needs to win 3 of them to win. For each mission, the leader (a role that rotates frequently during the game) first selects his proposed team (which is a subset of the group) to go on the mission. The entire group debates the proposal and then after the debate there's a vote. If the majority of people approve the mission, then the mission is a go. If the proposal fails, the leader role passes to the person on the left who then makes a proposal. The cycle repeats until either a mission passes or 5 proposals in a row fail (at which point the spies automatically win).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a mission is a go, each of the people on the mission are given success and failure cards. They secretly pick one (each person who is a loyal resistance member always votes for mission success, while spies can vote for success or failure) and the chosen cards are shuffled together. Most missions fail if there is a single failure card played, though one requires 2 fails. With each mission, the entire group analyzes the information they have (who voted for or against a proposal, whether a mission passed or failed, who was on a given mission) and try to determine who the spies are so they can make proposals guaranteed to pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of elements of trusts and interpreting behaviors in this game, and the playing time clocks in around 20-30 minutes per game, so I think it might be an ideal choice for a psychological experiment like you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2011-02-22T23:05:20.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:20:49.147" Score="6" ViewCount="4188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen these games compared very often, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/50286/games-that-fired-other-games/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;steadfast advocates on each side&lt;/a&gt; (that thread has a lot of interesting stuff as well). I'm mainly concerned with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depth of strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitability for new players (length of time to explain, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overall feel of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what situations you'd recommend playing each of them in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anything else you think should be included in regards to comparing and contrasting them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2266/whats-the-difference-between-puerto-rico-and-san-juan&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico vs. San Juan is discussed here.&lt;/a&gt; I'm more concerned about how RFTG compares to both of them. If it matters, Puerto Rico is the only one I already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:49:55.917" Title="Race for the Galaxy vs. San Juan and Puerto Rico" Tags="|puerto-rico|race-for-the-galaxy|san-juan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2703" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:24:33.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies is a franchise of World War II simulation board games that pit the Axis powers of Germany and Japan against the Allied powers of the United States, United Kingdom, and Russia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies is played on a world map that integrates an economic model with a strategic combat simulation. Capturing territories increases a nation's industrial capacity, which can be used to research advanced technologies or purchase military units to be fielded at production centers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies has a diverse set of air-, sea-, and land-based combat units, each of which has a unique strength in attack and defense. Armies, Navies and Air Forces are maneuvered on the map to gain strategic and tactical advantages and combat is resolved by rolling dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been four major versions of A&amp;amp;A (First Edition, Second Edition, A&amp;amp;A Revised, and A&amp;amp;A 50th Anniversary), each of which has slightly modified the rules and game play. Additionally, several theater-specific variants have been developed, such as A&amp;amp;A Pacific and A&amp;amp;A Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies is designed for between 2 and 5 players and average game play is several hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T22:47:17.523" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:47:17.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2704" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:24:33.933" Score="0" Body="Axis and Allies is a franchise of World War II simulation board games that pit the Axis powers of Germany and Japan against the Allied powers of the United States, United Kingdom, and Russia. " OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T22:47:26.930" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:47:26.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2706" CreationDate="2011-02-23T01:27:21.403" Score="7" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen these games compared very often, with steadfast advocates on each side. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/444670/battlestar-galactica-or-shadows-over-camelot&quot;&gt;link1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/470186/which-is-better-battlestar-galactica-or-shadows-o&quot;&gt;link2&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/50286/item/1153479#item1153479&quot;&gt;link3&lt;/a&gt;  I'm mainly concerned with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;depth of strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitability for new players (length of time to explain, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;overall feel of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what situations you would recommend playing each of them in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;anything else you think should be included in regards to comparing and contrasting them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I've noticed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows supports more and fewer people better, and seems to be easier to understand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both are Cooperative with the traitor mechanic. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battlestar seems to be the 'improved' version of Shadows. (What's really improved that was 'wrong' in Shadows?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:47:02.763" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T05:51:50.573" Title="Battlestar Galactica vs. Shadows over Camelot" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2011-02-23T05:58:47.227" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I noticed is that Shadows is much more... unfocused.  There are a ton of quests all over the board, and the players are going to be split up doing various things the whole time.  They're not much interacting with each other, just responding to the general board conditions and their own quests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Battlestar, you still have multiple threats (4 dials, 3 kinds of Cylon ships, Cylon boarders) but it seems like you're all working together more against these threats.  Perhaps it's the fact that the roles (Political/Military/Pilot) make it clear that each person is most useful in one area (whereas in Shadows it feels like any character can do any quest, mostly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, though, the fact that all players are actively involved in every skill check that happens gives Battlestar much more interaction - there's more opportunity to really sabotage, but more opportunity to be exposed, and the Brig offers a way to &quot;hedge your bets&quot; and contain someone you suspect to be a traitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also really like the second round (Sleeper Agent phase) in Battlestar, where some players may discover they're a traitor after all.  This means nobody's past behavior can totally prove anything, and that in the first round nobody really wants to do TOO well as a human, lest they turn out Cylon and be hopelessly behind.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When Jeff declined to help us pass that skill check, was he really out of green cards?  Or is he a Cylon?  OR is he a human, but afraid he'll end up Cylon and lose to the humans?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-02-23T19:54:37.627" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T19:54:37.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-23T07:25:52.000" Score="3" ViewCount="2540" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have the instructions and rules for the Pegs and Jokers Game made by Fundex? They used their own deck of cards instead of a poker deck.  I would also be interested in obtaining a complete game since the company no longer makes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user943" LastEditorUserId="704" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T07:13:17.650" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T07:13:17.650" Title="Instructions for Pegs and Jokers by Fundex" Tags="|pegs-and-jokers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2502" CreationDate="2011-02-23T09:54:14.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0974933007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why Did the Chicken...?&lt;/a&gt; (English). For up to eight players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YHQ3Q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each round, you'll have two minutes to create funny answers for a randomly generated riddle. But know your audience: One player will be judging answers instead of writing them! The judge's choices for the two best answers earn points. When the game's over, tally up your points to see who's the life of the party. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, each round there's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a randomly drawn question card, e.g.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;What do you get when you cross ... with ...?&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;What is the difference between ... and ...?&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;What did ... say to ...?&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and two randomly drawn noun cards to fill in the blanks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then whoever turns that into the funniest joke within two minutes, earns points. There are 20 different question cards and over 300 different noun cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game can be useful in improving both your active vocabulary (by trying to come up with the funniest joke) and your passive vocabulary (by trying to understand other's jokes and wordplays).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="128" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T09:54:14.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2147" CreationDate="2011-02-23T17:32:22.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Goons are on the board, you usually have a Goon-focused game. Chapel has a similar property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like Goon-focused games, don't put them in your kingdom set. Goon games flow differently than non-Goon games, so it's understandable you'd like the rest of Dominion but not Goons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, if you're new to Goons, give them a few more games before you pass judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-02-23T17:32:22.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2711" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:16:09.027" Score="6" ViewCount="514" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaleJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forge card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play a Forge and for whatever reason choose &quot;none&quot; as the amount of cards trashed (say if I played it via Golem by accident), do I gain anything? I could see 2 possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't gain because nothing was trashed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain a cost 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-02-24T18:05:47.083" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T18:05:47.083" Title="What happens if you Forge nothing?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2710" CreationDate="2011-02-24T15:39:49.717" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_361_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Prosperity rules&lt;/a&gt; cover this exact situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Forge - &quot;Any number&quot; includes zero. If you trash no cards, you have to gain&#xA;  a card costing 0 if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-02-24T15:39:49.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2011-02-24T22:46:55.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just use the Train Station rules from TTR:E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T14:39:37.750" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T14:39:37.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2716" CreationDate="2011-02-25T14:48:08.363" Score="0" ViewCount="2426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently inherited a handful of games from a family member. One of those games happened to be Word Thief. When I sat down to play, I realized that the rulebook had been lost or was not included in the box. Is there anywhere that I can go to find the rulebook for this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The publisher appears to be Faby, which doesn't seem to have any sort of web presence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T19:30:12.647" LastActivityDate="2022-12-30T21:15:59.190" Title="Where can I find the rules for Word Thief?" Tags="|word-thief|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2714" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-02-25T17:19:53.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;How to ask an identify-this-game question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When asking an identify-this-game question, it's important to add an informative title. &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Looking for an old game&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; is bad. &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;A game on a blue polka dot board with yellow dinosaur pieces from the early 90s&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; is great. If you want to ask about more than one game, separate the question into multiple questions and post each separately. In addition, try to touch upon the following points in your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give us the general description of the game and its gameplay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Were there any novel or interesting game mechanics that stand out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Describe any of the pieces you can recall, for example the board. Did it use dice or cards? If so, what kind of cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When was the game released / when did you play it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you remember anything about how the game box looked?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you recall who the publisher was?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Was there a television commercial for it?  Any memorable moments?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have pictures of (parts of) it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if you can provide a basic diagram showing how the game looked like it will greatly increase your chance of getting a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Are identify-this-game questions always on-topic?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been decided in &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/195/1583&quot;&gt;this meta-thread&lt;/a&gt; that identify-this-game questions are valid for this site as long as they are specific enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T16:43:46.863" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T16:43:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2715" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-02-25T17:19:53.570" Score="0" Body="For questions on which game the described game is. Include as many details as possible, so we aren't left guessing! Pictures are very helpful in most cases." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-02-16T16:43:46.863" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T16:43:46.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2713" CreationDate="2011-02-25T17:33:21.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try Googling? The top hit for the search &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&amp;amp;q=word%20thief%20game%20rules&amp;amp;btnG=Google+Search&amp;amp;meta=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules word thief card game&lt;/a&gt; seems to be what you want: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/way_5946236_rules-word-thief-card-game.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules for Word Thief, by Faby games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T17:33:21.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2011-02-25T18:40:06.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like you said, you can't shuffle your tiles at will, but if I'm remembering correctly, you can put the tile you just drawn anywhere in your &quot;hand&quot;, so you can't know when the discarded tile was drawn (at least not if you haven't a perfect memory ;) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, each player has his own discard location, so you can easily see all tiles he has already discarded and maybe find a pattern in his discards which may prove useful to guess what he is waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player which is always discarding quickly the tile he just drawn is also a strong indicator that he is close to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="957" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T18:40:06.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2718" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-02-25T21:35:12.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies Europe is a board game set in the European theater of World War II. It is a spin-off of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/tags/axis-and-allies/info&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T21:43:31.173" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T21:43:31.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2719" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-02-25T21:35:12.703" Score="0" Body="Axis and Allies Europe is a board game set in the European theater of World War II. It is a spin-off of [Axis and Allies](http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/tags/axis-and-allies/info)." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-02-25T21:43:34.747" LastActivityDate="2011-02-25T21:43:34.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-25T23:49:11.520" Score="2" ViewCount="1951" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you wanted to design a quiz game in which knowledge questions are asked. What would be a good set of topics to subdivide all of human knowledge into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to avoid bias towards academic or pop-culture topics; try to cover everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try to limit yourself to a reasonable number, let’s say around 20 topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="960" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-02-26T07:54:29.703" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T21:47:57.383" Title="What would be a good set of topics for a quiz game?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-11-07T23:59:48.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2702" CreationDate="2011-02-26T03:31:32.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;RftG, in terms of gameplay, falls fairly in the middle of the two other games.  Similar mechanics of role selection, cards as money, 'big building' cards, victory points, shipping strategy (consume) vs. building.  There's slightly more relevance to role selection in RftG than in San Juan, but not as much as in Puerto Rico.  Seating order doesn't matter as much as in Puerto Rico.  In terms of learning, San Juan is easier to teach because it has a more accessible theme and RftG has an intimidating iconography.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, it's a game where it's hard to make real mistakes, just sub-optimal choices, so winning is usually determined by luck, game experience, and familiarity with the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RftG has more luck than Puerto Rico, since it's based on card draws (even though this is mitigating by multiple reshuffles per game).  Still, all these games are 'group solitaire games' at their core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd only suggest RftG to someone with some 'real' board game experience (i.e. not Monopoly or Apples to Apples), AND if they enjoy the space theme.  Rules take about 45 minutes to explain fully, but this can be done, in part during a first practice game.  Strategy isn't as important in RftG as it is in Puerto Rico, as the extra randomness tends towards good tactics being more important.  This is because it's a progressive build game where early decisions affect victory point 'velocity'.  Strategy comes in when you know the cards and can selectively optimize for one or more 'big building' cards, and usually is only relevant fairly late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T03:31:32.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2548" CreationDate="2011-02-26T03:55:41.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is, unfortunately, no official ruling.  You can attempt to get one by contacting Days of Wonder directly: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/contact/sublevel/?entry_id=36&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Question Submission Form&lt;/a&gt;.  However, as it's a popular question and no answer has appeared for some time, I wouldn't hold my breath.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any rules dispute, I highly suggest the group agree on a strategy for resolution beforehand (for all games).  My group usually does not like to halt the action, so we take a quick vote, go with the majority (or flip a coin on a tie), and then look it up later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for my personal opinion, Pirates Cove makes no distinction between Fame and Notoriety, so when even bad press is good press, the concept of being 'less than a nobody' doesn't make much sense.  All the pirates start out as absolute nobodies, and there's no where else to go but up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better defense than theme is that many games which take into account the possibility of going negative will often give an in-game way of tracking that, such as a -1 token, card (e.g. dominion's curse cards), or to start the players out with some points to lose.  Since this game did none of those and there are not explicit negative numbers on the fame track, the evidence points towards no negative fame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T03:55:41.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2720" CreationDate="2011-02-26T04:14:00.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously this question has no correct answer, as it's completely subjective, but if you're just looking for an idea, I'd suggest making your categorical break-down theme based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare other popular quiz games, say Classic Trivial Pursuit and Jeopardy, the first is trying to cater to being a family game that everyone can play, so it makes its categorical breakdown along typical areas of interest for different types of people Arts people, Sports people, Science people, etc.   Jeopardy prides itself on cleverness and wordplay, so its categories reflect that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the act of categorization isn't sorting things into existing buckets base don obvious differences, it's about creating a differentiating metric and categorizing things based on that metric.  For example, if you restrict your set of things to visible objects, you have an infinite set of metrics like color, weight, size, density, use, origin, lifespan, etc.  One you choose a metric there's often a continuum within that metric which you must create arbitrary points.  For example, you take color and break it into Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, and Violet.  Those categories now artificially group your world.  Of course, you could just as easily have chosen lifespan and grouped thing into &quot;fleeting&quot;, &quot;temporary&quot;, &quot;normal&quot;, &quot;durable&quot;, and &quot;indestructible&quot;.  It's really unbounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's your theme?  Is this about energy aliens, looking at a human world and trying to figure things out in terms that make sense to them?  Maybe the categories are &quot;hairy&quot; and &quot;smooth&quot;.  With those terms in which category would you place &quot;Key&quot; and &quot;Shoe&quot; into?  Part of the fun is seeing how the category informs the question's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the fun things about many board and card games with themes is doing just this trick.  For example, Magic the Gathering needs to thematically sort every spell and creature into a color, and does this quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T04:14:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2725" CreationDate="2011-02-26T07:00:19.867" Score="18" ViewCount="3569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a hard time figuring out when Chancellor is useful. Forcing a reshuffle of the deck just seems of little use to me, at least relative to the other actions I could buy with 3 coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few suggestions that Chancellor is useful when paired with cards in some of the other expansions, but can you help me see how it could be useful in the base game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zk15o.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chancellor card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+2 Gold.  You may immediately put your deck into your discard pile.  (Cost 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T23:02:42.777" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T23:02:42.777" Title="What's a good use for Chancellor?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2724" CreationDate="2011-02-26T07:26:42.750" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just need to gain a clearer picture of the circumstances in which forcing a reshuffle of the deck is useful.  Imagine that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have drawn a lot of the useful cards from your deck, and few of your victory cards.  Obviously reshuffling will save you from the inevitable victory-card-heavy hands.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have just bought a powerful card, that you want a chance to draw again immediately.  Or if you have just played one or more of your best cards, that you want a chance to draw again immediately.  Why wait to cycle through the whole rest of your deck, before you get that chance?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Chancellor defends against the Bureaucrat, the Spy, or any other situation where you know the top card of your deck is not something you especially want to be part of your next hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are circumstances when it's better to reshuffle your deck.  (Though of course, there are equal and opposite cases where it's definitely better &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to reshuffle your deck, so you have to be on the ball if you're going to play with the Chancellor, he's not a card you want to just automatically play any time!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously he has a big downside, in that he takes up an Action.  But, if you weren't going to spend that Action on anything else, he's all upside compared to a Silver.  Early in the game, before your deck is filled with good Action cards that you really want to play, and when you have a clear idea of the total composition of your deck, the Chancellor is probably just plain better than a Silver.  And never underestimate the power of getting off to a good start in the early game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T07:26:42.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2764" CreationDate="2011-02-26T07:36:29.133" Score="3" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here apart from me played &lt;strong&gt;Parade&lt;/strong&gt;?  It's a simple, cute, yet original and maddeningly addictive little Alice-in-Wonderland-themed card game from a Japanese designer.  Basically, there are 6 suits of cards, ranked from 0-10.  You want to avoid collecting these cards where possible, as they score their face value against you at the end, &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you have the most or equal most cards in a suit, in which case they score 1 point against you each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just seems to me that the designer possibly missed a trick with this scoring system.  Obviously there are interesting choices to be made in that it's better to collect 5 or 6 green cards rather than the green 7 or 8 on its own; but it still seems like it would have been much more interesting for the cards you have the most of to count positively in your favour.  Then it would have been just like Hearts: you'd have had to keep an eye out for players trying to &quot;shoot the moon&quot;, and it could often be better to tactically pick up a few cards than just avoid picking anything up as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is, I feel mitigating your losses by picking up more cards in the same colours is semi-interesting, but being able to turn losses into positive points would have been really interesting - especially as the game can be brought to a premature end by any player having at least one card in each suit.  But am I missing something?  Would inverting the rules in this way ruin the balance of the game, for a reason such as, e.g., it being too easy to score a ton of points and end the game quickly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has both played Parade and can provide some analysis/insight into why it's scored the way it is, I'd be very interested!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T22:46:02.877" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T22:46:02.877" Title="Why Does The Parade Scoring System Work The Way It Does?" Tags="|parade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2720" CreationDate="2011-02-26T15:22:29.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the question states &quot;Try to avoid bias towards academic or pop-culture topics&quot; I would use academic categorisation.  There are a number of reasons why academic subjects make a good categorisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly everyone is familiar with the bounds of the topics.  Someone choosing to receive a question from a particular category has some level of confidence that their interpretation of &quot;History&quot; or &quot;Science&quot;, will be the same as the question setter's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly each academic subject contains a large amount of information - large enough that it can be studied for many years, and still not be completely learnt.  Academic subjects are also broad - two professors in the same department may be ill-suited to review each others research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally the definition of academic subjects has come about naturally by people categorising knowledge.  They probably don't cover &quot;all of human knowledge&quot; (unless you treat them very loosely), but they give it a good go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T15:22:29.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-02-26T15:48:21.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The variation that my game group played for years and loved was this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;50 points for a nil (no passing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;100 for blind nil (2 cards passing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can only go blind-nil if the team is 100 points behind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suicide: one person on each team MUST go nil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum bid 4 (even if you first say 2 and your partner's bid is nil, your team-bid is 4).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You only score your nil if your team makes its bid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the blind option just a catch-up option, and keep the game competitive.  suicide works because often while trying to cover your partner you end up covering the other guy's nil.  Finally, the minimum bid rule pretty much enforces playing good cards well, and not turning it into a game of chicken with the other team (a problem with normal suicide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-02-27T03:00:27.497" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T03:00:27.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2766" CreationDate="2011-02-26T16:08:41.933" Score="12" ViewCount="104905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to play the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mafia_%28party_game%29&quot;&gt;mafia party game&lt;/a&gt; online ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="963" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T12:11:22.130" LastActivityDate="2020-05-18T13:36:26.140" Title="Is there a way to play the mafia party game online ?" Tags="|online|party|werewolf|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2732" CreationDate="2011-02-26T18:08:20.157" Score="8" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you get a crisis card that has a choice, such as &quot;-1 Food OR Current Player Discards 3 Cards&quot;.  In situations where you cannot afford the cost of the latter, are you forced into the former?  For example, if the current player has no hand, are you required to lose 1 food?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T19:30:18.470" Title="Paying Costs you Cannot Afford" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2682" CreationDate="2011-02-26T20:13:24.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some random additional axes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theme &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aesthetics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quality of construction/bits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shape of the luck/skill curve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accessibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Concrete vs. Abstract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time/difficulty to master&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coop vs competitive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experience/immersion factor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expandability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Customizability/variations &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compactness for travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Table-space required for play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age level suitability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rarity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appeal to non-gamers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creativity required by players/ group&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability to objectively evaluate relative victory status&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn/off-turn engagement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much attention need be paid (can you play while watching tv)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emotional attachment to avatars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Want more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T20:13:24.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2730" CreationDate="2011-02-26T21:42:29.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, in these cases you are welcome to choose the &quot;discard 3 cards&quot; option and merrily not do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These effects of Crises are not really COSTS per se - in most games costs are non-optional, so your reasoning about being forced to do the other choice makes some sense if you think of these as costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they really aren't costs, they're just the effects of that Crisis, and you're welcome to choose the one that impacts you the least, and execute as much of it as you're able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-02-26T21:42:29.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2737" CreationDate="2011-02-26T23:01:47.153" Score="5" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played my first game of BSG (solo using the official fully cooperative rules). I've got the german edition so my card names might be a bit off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The green skill cards 1 and 2 say something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; Choose 1 player. This player may move his character and do 1 action OR may keep his character where it is and do 2 actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if it is my turn. Can I move to a location in my move phase, play that card in my action phase, choose myself and do the location's action 2 times? It seems a bit overpowered but I've not seen anything in the rules that forbid this use...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T00:41:27.200" Title="Playing &quot;Executive Orders&quot; on self" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2782" CreationDate="2011-02-26T23:07:00.427" Score="2" ViewCount="703" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played my first game of BSG (solo using the official fully cooperative rules). I've got the german edition so my card names might be a bit off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card &quot;Inspirational Speech&quot; says something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; Roll dice. If you roll 6 or higher you get +1 Morale and this card is put out of play. Otherwise it has no effect and is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now apart from gaining the 1 Morale, what is the difference of what happens with the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:23:47.670" Title="Quorum cards like &quot;Inspirational Speech&quot; - Difference between results" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2743" CreationDate="2011-02-26T23:17:48.690" Score="2" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played my first game of BSG (solo using the official fully cooperative rules). I've got the german edition so my card names might be a bit off...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my version the &quot;weapons control&quot; locations says something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; Attack a cylon ship using the Galactica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to attack a raider or heavy raider with Galactica's guns? It doesn't say it has to be a basestar and in the show the Galactica is seen doing this IIRC...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I conceed that vipers are usually better suited for this job but what if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm out of vipers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raiders are about to attack a civilian ship an there's no viper to intercept them in time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or if I simply want to get a head start on those heavy raiders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:14:04.070" Title="Using weapons control on raiders" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-02-26T23:38:22.140" Score="1" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since BSG takes up quite a bit of real estate on the table I found it to be difficult at times to a good random pick among the damage or ship tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought about using the dice. Put them in a straight line and pick according to the dice roll. Now this should work easily enough for the damage tokens since there are never more than there are sides on the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However there are 10 ships and only a d8 (assuming I don't have a d10 around). I'm thinking about splitting the pile in half and doing 2 rolls. First roll picks the pile (even/odd or low/high) and the second roll simply takes the n-th ship with rerolls if the dice shows too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now to my question:&lt;/strong&gt; Does anyone have a better solution or experience with a solution like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T03:38:44.347" Title="More conveniently randomizing the cardboard tokens" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2733" CreationDate="2011-02-27T00:41:27.200" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The English version of this card specifies OTHER players:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NoSku.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Executive Orders card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, you cannot play this card on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T00:41:27.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2734" CreationDate="2011-02-27T04:21:31.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find a shot of the English version of the card that I've played with, but I think I remember the card you mean, and the Morale &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; the only difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the card is taken out of play means you only have a limited number of opportunities to gain back Morale in this way, so you have to hope you roll well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T04:21:31.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2011-02-27T10:42:55.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just put the tokens on the table, face down, move them around a bit, and then pick them up at a random order. We never felt as if the result is not random enough, and it doesn't take a lot of time and effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T10:42:55.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2741" CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:44:04.430" Score="22" ViewCount="105824" Body="&lt;p&gt;My 4 player catan set has been mixed with my 5 &amp;amp; 6 player expansion set, parts have been lost, and last time I played we had 3 fields with an '8', no number '2' and a missing '10'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would someone be so kind as to run through the values in the standard game - i.e. A-R where A=x, etc…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="966" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-09T19:42:48.863" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T22:49:40.130" Title="Distribution of tokens in Standard 4 player catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2011-02-27T20:50:26.470" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here you go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A = 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B = 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C = 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D = 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E = 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;F = 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G = 9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;H = 12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I = 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;J = 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K = 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;L = 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M = 9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N = 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O = 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P = 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Q = 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R = 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T20:50:26.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:11:38.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.invisible-city.com/play/5/seven-pennies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seven Pennies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a simple game of chance with a tiny dash of decision-making, and it enjoyed a brief stint of popularity in the NYC and Boston bar scenes.  To play, all you need are seven coins and a flat surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:11:38.800" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2735" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:14:04.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's right.  Just because the attack chart doesn't say what happens when Galactica attacks a raider or heavy raider, it doesn't mean galactica can't do it, just that the roll to hit is not different.  Blast away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:14:04.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:20:22.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, I wouldn't want to play on twitter, but if you search there are whole on-line sites dedicated to the likes of werewolf/mafia, so yes.  Have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This link is more useful than the wikipedia one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eblong.com/zarf/werewolf.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://eblong.com/zarf/werewolf.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The links at the end are what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-02-27T22:20:22.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-02-27T22:55:07.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that any of the games given so far will be quite what you're looking for.  You've stated two things are important, one that strategy will depend on pre-existing trust and that there's some notion of 'partnership'.  Here's a quick game off the top of my head which might address this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need 5 players, seated at a table in a pentagon shape.  The two across from you are 'enemies' and the two to either side are 'friends'.  Each player is given 3 cards or tokens (identical).  The only requirement of the tokens is that they are easy to conceal, and can be played in one of two ways as you will see.   A random player is chosen to go first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No private or public discussion is allowed (this ensure that decisions are made from pre-existing biases about the people, per your experiment's needs); the starting player chooses a person to attack.  This may be a friend or an enemy.  Then all the other players choose as many token as they'd like played either in support of the attack or the defense, and kept concealed, but unchangeable.  You MAY choose support an attack on your friend, or support the defense of your enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once selections are made, all players reveal and the attack is resolved.  Each support of a friend is worth twice as many points, likewise each attack on an enemy is worth twice as many points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacker himself cannot play any tokens.  Likewise the defender cannot play any tokens (the success or failure is based only on the support of others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;whichever had more points win, the other is eliminated from the game (but retains his position on the table for friend-enemy purposes).  A tie goes to the attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play continues with the next player making an attack, so one person is eliminated each time.  Obviously, at some point two 'friends' must attack each other.  The winner is the last person remaining (NOTE: on the last round, no token may be played, and the attacker immediately wins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optionally, you can have eliminated players gift any remaining tokens to others players of their choice.  However, this will have drastic consequences on your results and vastly complicate their analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if you can afford it, I suggest letting players play on a computer simulator first only a few times to get the idea of the game.   This eliminates the learning factor from affecting your experiment.  The computer players may act randomly, and only feedback like (you friend supports you!  Or your friend betrays you!) is necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T07:38:22.327" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T07:38:22.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2748" CreationDate="2011-02-28T01:52:20.897" Score="6" ViewCount="4911" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12382/puerto-rico-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico Expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My family really liked Puerto Rico, and I'm curious what the expansion is like. The only thing it adds are new buildings and some weird rules for drafting buildings at the beginning that &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/93616/puerto-rico-expansion-good-buildings-bad-game-me&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some reviews say are pretty bad&lt;/a&gt;. I assume the buildings don't really make the game much more complicated, but do they change the game drastically or just add to it? When would you recommend getting the expansion? Does anyone who has it have any other comments on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T16:49:16.643" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T12:41:19.067" Title="What changes or improvement will the Puerto Rico expansion offer me?" Tags="|puerto-rico|expansions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2011-02-28T02:29:40.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having just finished my first game, these are my reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial explanation didn't take extremely long, primarily because we left the non-production building explanation for later when we would actually need them. We were able to start playing after about 10-15 minutes of carefully guided explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the players are open to new things and aren't going to freak out from a lot of parts or a bit of explanation before playing you should be okay. If not, you may want to spend a little bit of time on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1350/games-that-are-quick-to-teach-to-new-people-yet-still-fun-and-strategical&quot;&gt;intro-games to see if they want to take a bigger plunge.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the players are new to the game (as in my case) its actually pretty fun to be able to explore it together. I imagine if you had to walk into a jungle when you knew every tree accompanied by 2 people who were still fascinated by the undergrowth you'd be pretty bored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We started really seeing and taking advantage of the strategies as we found them about mid-way through the game. We were able to share insights and start really applying things. I imagine the next game we'll know our way around more and be able to make more informed choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd definitely consider it a success&lt;/strong&gt;. If you have people who are willing to go on the adventure, you'll be able to have fun learning you're way around. I wouldn't play with any experienced people until you've had the time to wander around, get lost, and find the way our yourself. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T02:29:40.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2746" CreationDate="2011-02-28T03:30:44.323" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt;  I don't like the first expansion (&quot;The Buildings&quot; expansion in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/40688/treasure-chest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Treasure Chest&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;[BGG]&lt;/sup&gt; set), as there are only a few good buildings; I do, however, enjoy the second expansion (&quot;The Nobles&quot; expansion in the aforementioned Treasure Chest).  If you are a completist and want some variety, go for it, but I don't feel the first expansion adds much to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt; I feel that the Nobles expansion is the better expansion, as the buildings have good synergy, the Nobles colonists put a much larger emphasis on Mayoring (you replace one colonist on the ship each phase with a red Noble piece; each Noble is worth 1 VP at the end of the game and some buildings function differently if it is occupied by a Noble) and the expansion as a whole seems to try and put more emphasis on roles that might not have been taken as much in the core game.  The Nobles expansion does have a few arguably degenerate combos, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Buildings expansion to me just has some random buildings with weird rules for the sake of being &quot;different&quot;, like the Forest House and the Black Market.  There &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; a couple of bright spots in the first expansion, though, such as the Storehouse, Library and Statue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The drafting rule&lt;/strong&gt;: very much slows down the start of the game, and while I could be judging harshly, I think the drafting is a major turn-off and slows down the start of the game pretty severely.  I don't want to pick buildings, I just want to play!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like the Variant 2 suggestion in the link you provided to speed up the drafting process, but I find it simply easier to say &quot;We're playing with all of Expansion 1&quot;, &quot;We're playing with all of Expansion 2&quot;), or &quot;We're playing the core game&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to cover both expansions, just for the sake of thoroughness, so you can decide if the expansion is right for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Market vs. Aqueduct (Expansion 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Aqueduct will give you one more barrel of indigo or sugar for a large plant when crafting, but the Small Market is practically the de facto opening move and a fantastic buy; other than trying something new, I can't see why you would want to take the Aqueduct over Small Market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  Small Market, hands down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construction Hut and Hacienda vs. Forest House and Black Market (Expansion 1) vs. Land Office (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Construction Hut is nice for getting a quarry when someone else Settles.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacienda is nice for getting a random extra plantation, when you're going for the Residence or want to get plantations as quick as possible and don't particularly care what you pull.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Forest House allows you to take a plantation from the stack, place it face-down on your plantation area and call it a Forest; for every two Forests you have in the plantation area, you get a 1 doubloon discount (in addition to any Builder privileges and/or quarry discounts).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Black Market allows you to reduce a building's cost; you may discard one colonist, VP or good back to the supply and get a 1 doubloon discount, but you cannot discard more than one of each type, and you cannot have any doubloons left after using the Black Market.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A colonist-occupied Land Office lets you buy the topmost face-down plantation in any of the plantation stacks for 1 doubloon during the trader phase.  A noble-occupied Land Office lets you discard a plantation tile from the plantation to earn 1 doubloon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Forest House &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; give you a discount above and beyond a quarry at the cost of spending 2 turns doing nothing but getting a forest; I rather just have a Construction Hut for the guaranteed Quarry.  I don't like the Black Market because you can almost always do something with the discarded good (sell it or ship it), and who wants to discard VPs?  The noble-occupied Land Office is amusing if you get stuck pulling a plantation you'll simply never use, but the colonist-occupied Land Office is a Hacienda that you have to spend an extra doubloon for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  The Expansion 1 buildings are the worst of the bunch.  Construction Hut and Hacienda still probably win, although Construction Hut and Land Office isn't bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Warehouse vs. Storehouse (Expansion 1) vs. Chapel (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we're getting to some actual decisions!  Small Warehouse is great when you and someone else are producing the same good, but he gets the drop on you and captains first and fills a ship up.  In addition to your one barrel kept after captaining, a Storehouse allows you to get 3 more goods (of any type), so you effectively get to keep up to four barrels after captaining.  The Chapel, during the craftsman phase, gives you 1 doubloon if occupied by a colonist, and 1 VP if occupied by a Noble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  All three are great.  If you have diverse plantations, I think Storehouse is actually better.  If you want a free doubloon or VP almost every turn, the Chapel is pretty tempting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hospice vs. Guesthouse (Expansion 1) vs. Hunting Lodge (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hospice is nice because your plantations are automatically occupied when you Settle.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guesthouse is extremely interesting.  During the Mayor phase, you may place up to two of your colonists in the Guesthouse.  Then, during any other phase, at any point, you may move people &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; the Guesthouse onto any other space on your board, where they immediately take effect.  Great for getting a Big Purple building occupied at the end of the game when no one is going to Mayor again, or when you just bought that Coffee Roaster but haven't had a chance to occupy it yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hunting Lodge is such a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr11b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Johnny&lt;/a&gt; combo-riffic building.  During each Settler phase, if the Hunting Lodge is colonist-occupied, you may discard a plantation from your island.  If the Hunting Lodge is noble-occupied, and you have the fewest plantations on the board (not tied for fewest), you earn 2 VP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  All three are great again.  Hospice is very straight-forward and good at what it does, but Guesthouse is a really versatile building, and Hunting Lodge is really hilarious if you can stay behind in plantations, especially early in the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Office and Large Market vs. Trading Post and Church (Expansion 1) vs. Zoning Office (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow, still reading?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading Post gives you your own Trading House, but you can't use Small Market or Large Market with it.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the Church, you get 1 VP when you buy anything in the 2nd or 3rd column, 2 VP if you buy anything in the 4th column.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A colonist-occupied Zoning Office lets you pay 1 less doubloon when buying anything in the first 3 columns, and a noble-occupied Zoning Office lets you pay 2 less doubloons when buying anything in the 4th column.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  Office and Large Market all the way.  Trading Post suffers because you don't get Small or Large Market bonuses, and Church and Zoning Office really don't give great returns.  Selling Coffee over and over again, and at a possible +2 doubloons is fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large Warehouse vs. Small Wharf (Expansion 1) vs. Royal Supplier (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small Wharf lets you ship straight to the supply, as many or as few barrels as you want, but you only get 1 VP for each two barrels you ship.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Royal Supplier lets you ship straight to the supply, and you get 1 VP for each barrel, but you can only ship 1 of each good, and you can only ship up to X barrels, where X is the number of nobles on your board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  Large Warehouse or Royal Supplier.  Small Wharf is reasonably costed, and if you miss out on a Wharf, it's not bad, but I think the Royal Supplier does it better, because you're going to &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; Nobles anyways; it only takes 5 barrels to get 5 VP with the Royal Supplier, whereas it takes 10 barrels with the Small Wharf.  Large Warehouse is great simply for how much it can hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 7&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factory vs. Lighthouse (Expansion 1) vs. Villa (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wrist is cramping.  The Lighthouse gives 1 doubloon for each shipment (much like the Harbor, but with doubloons instead of VP).  If you have a Lighthouse and you select Captain, you get another doubloon just for being awesome.  During the Mayor phase, an occupied Villa lets you take a Noble from the supply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  They're all fantastic picks.  If your opponents will allow it, the Villa.  The Villa may just be the single most broken building in the game, as an early Villa can fuel Jeweler and Chapel, plus you're getting a free guy worth 1 VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 8&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;University and Harbor vs. Specialty Factory and Library (Expansion 1) vs. Jeweler (Expansion 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specialty Factory gives you X-1 doubloons when crafting, where X is the number of goods of a single kind you produced.  Produced 5 corn?  You just got 4 doubloons.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Library is &lt;strong&gt;awesome&lt;/strong&gt;.  When you take a role, double the privilege.  It's just that simple.  Think about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the Craftsman phase, the Jewler gives you a doubloon for each Noble on your board.  It also counts as a large production building.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  Library and (Jeweler if playing with Nobles, Harbor without Nobles).  I hate the University; it is way too expensive for what it does.  The Specialty Factory is nice, but I think there is more money-making opportunities with the Jeweler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 9&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wharf vs. Union Hall (Expansion 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the Captain phase, before captaining, you get 1 VP for every two of the same good you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Verdict:  The Wharf is just better.  If you have a Large Market and the Union Hall, and you somehow keep being unable to ship anything, I could see some big decent VP bonuses there, but I much rather just be able to ship everything at 1 VP per barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cost 10&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just going to cover the new ones here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Statue -- it's worth 8 VP, period.  No occupation necessary, just fork over the 10 doubloons and collect 8 VP.  Fantastic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloister -- you get VP depending on how many triplets of plantations you have on your island; 1 VP for 1 set, 3 VP for 2 sets, 6 VP for 3 sets and 10 VP for 4 sets.  Tricky to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Royal Garden -- all your nobles are worth 2 VP instead of 1 VP.  Absolutely brutal with the Villa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boy, I sure hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T03:30:44.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2736" CreationDate="2011-02-28T03:38:44.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A coffee mug works well. Put the tokens in the mug and they won't take up much space on the table. You can even shake the mug to randomize the tokens, which prevents people from possibly remembering where a token is on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T03:38:44.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2011-02-28T06:24:42.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To counter the move, I make it clear at the begining of the game that if you ask if I have any brick, I may not tell you the truth. If you ask if I want to &lt;em&gt;trade&lt;/em&gt;, that's a different question, and I can say no without implying I don't have any. I may also say, 'maybe,' when I don't have the requested resource, then turn down the ensuing trade offer. Doesn't work if you're playing with people with good memories, but how many of us pay scrupulous attention to every resource people pick up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="967" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T06:24:42.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2011-02-28T09:38:19.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building a city before building your third settlement does bring in the advantage of more income. If your three target junctions are 12, 10, and 7, a settlement and city bring you income on 34 pips, while three settlement bring you 29 pips. BUT! By building a third settlement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) helps to limit your opponents' options, by occupying a vacant junction, and by building two additional roads, which limit opponents' road building opportunities&#xA;b) often increases your &lt;em&gt;variety&lt;/em&gt; of resources&#xA;c) contributes to your future effort towards longest road &#xA;d) offers protection against the robber by making less juicy targets. Not only do you lose, say only 5 pips versus 10, but you may avoid getting the robber entirely when someone else has a city (a bigger target) and you don't.&#xA;e) probably brings you closer to a trading port, which can be critical in the middlegame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I've had much better luck with the third settlement strategy rather than the 'city as soon as possible strategy'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrt another strand in this thread, I've had excellent luck going after development cards right away. Having several cards often makes you immune to the robber--either you can move it if someone puts it on you, or knowing (or believing) you can move it means other players often pick on someone else. Second, and obviously, largest army means two points it's great to have. Third, you often pick up a victory point card or two. Fourth, you often get back the resources you spend, through road building and monopoly cards, or in resources that diverting roober helps you gain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think resource cards are the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; strategy, but they definitely shouldn't be sneered at, a steady stream of them can help you cripple your closest opponent, and if you find yourself with limited mobility it can be a very viable way to win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="967" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T09:38:19.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2011-02-28T10:05:56.897" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you find you're often badly placed, initially, it may be that you're either making errors there, or misjudging where other players are going to place their initial settlements. It's easy to pick your optimal placement when in a four player game you place fourth-fifth, and you can usually figure where the fourth player to play will go when you place third-sixth. If you go first you usually grab one of the two best producing junctions, and should aim for brick and wood since if you have those two with your first settlement, if your options are limited when it gets back to you at least you're able to move, and other players are often hungry for brick and wood early in the game, meaning you're the trading king. Going second-seventh is often the toughest slot, since the first player to go typically grabs the best brick and wood combination (assuming there is one), and there often isn't another good brick and wood combo on the table. Then, of course, by the time it gets back to you pickings tend to be slim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still and all, given the good advice people have offered, above, you really shouldn't run into setup situations too often at the beginning of the game that seriously handicap you. One of the three main lines of play should be open to you. It's unusual to be stuck with setups where all you get are ore, sheep, and brick; or wheat, sheep, and wood; those triumvirates that leave you unable to move, unable to build, and unable to pick up development cards. Avoid those scenarios if you possibly can, since you're absolutely dependent on the tender mercies of other traders to bail you out and let you progress. Even so, if that's the best situation available to you, you may need to try to build to the nearest 2:1 port of a resource you're rich in, just to get the flexibility that'll get you back in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="967" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T10:05:56.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2755" CreationDate="2011-02-28T14:27:09.177" Score="17" ViewCount="20977" Body="&lt;p&gt;When exchanging cards between two players in Pandemic, does it matter which player's turn it is? I have seen this rule played two ways: &#xA;- The active player can only give a card.&#xA;OR&#xA;- The active player can give or receive a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both actions would still cost 1 point each, but the latter allows the active player to use an action point to take a card from another player sharing the same space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T21:45:18.317" Title="Exchanging Cards in Pandemic" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2754" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:11:35.877" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/2ccga9djct/Pandemic_Rules.pdf?&quot;&gt;From the rules:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Share Knowledge Sometimes it’s hard&#xA;  for one player to get the cards&#xA;  necessary to discover a cure. The Share&#xA;  Knowledge action (while difficult to&#xA;  perform) can be useful in these cases.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Transfer a card from one player to&#xA;  another.&lt;/strong&gt; Every card transferred costs&#xA;  1 action. Both your pawn and your&#xA;  fellow player’s pawn must be in the&#xA;  same city, and you may only transfer&#xA;  the card of the city that you are in&#xA;  together. (For example, if you are&#xA;  together in Moscow, only the Moscow&#xA;  card may be transferred from one&#xA;  player to the other.) If either player&#xA;  holds more than 7 cards as the result&#xA;  of a transfer, the excess cards must&#xA;  be immediately discarded to the Player&#xA;  Discard Pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Special for the Researcher:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Researcher may give a&#xA;  fellow player any card from his hand&#xA;  when involved in a Share Knowledge&#xA;  action. He is not restricted to giving&#xA;  the card of the current&#xA;  jointly-occupied city, like other&#xA;  players are. is freedom only applies&#xA;  when the Researcher is giving a&#xA;  card—he always receives a card with&#xA;  the same restriction as other players.&#xA;  e Researcher can utilize this ability&#xA;  when involved in Share Knowledge&#xA;  actions on any player’s turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It does NOT matter what player's turn it is.&lt;/strong&gt; Either play can initiate the transfer and either give or take a card from the other player. The Researcher only gets to use his special ability of transferring any card when the card is being transferred from the Researcher to another player. In order to transfer a card from another player to the Researcher, they must be in the same city as depicted on the card being transferred. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make the game a fair bit easier as you don't have to wait for the right players turn to transfer cards. You could play the other way if you wanted a bit more difficulty with 2 or 3 players, but playing it with 4 can be almost as bad as adding another epidemic card. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T15:23:56.123" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T15:23:56.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2759" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:38:25.523" Score="3" ViewCount="2048" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the interesting aspects of Dominion is how you have to plan which kingdom cards you're going to get while they're still there. If there's 2 attack cards available and somebody's snagged all the moats, you're going to be in trouble. Victory cards are obviously in limited supply as well. The basic treasures, copper, silver, and gold however, are pretty much unlimited, at least that's what I've found in my games. We've never even come close to running out of any of them, even with 5 players. There's 60 copper, 40 silver, and 30 gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I had the idea of limiting the treasures, like all the other cards. Not very restrictively, but enough to come into affect if multiple people are playing big money. Maybe 8 silver per person and 5 gold per person. They're silver and gold, they should be &lt;strong&gt;rare!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody ever played this way before? Do you think it would have a huge difference on the game? Do 8 silver and 5 gold per person seem like good ratios?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-02-28T15:40:59.493" LastActivityDate="2022-08-30T08:38:27.193" Title="Limiting the number of silver and gold cards available in Dominion" Tags="|house-rules|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2757" CreationDate="2011-02-28T15:44:36.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would create a little more competition in getting treasures into your deck before they run out. You'd think this would make big money more attractive as you'd want to limit the other player's treasure supply, but as you often buy gold when you have 6 regardless of strategy I don't think it would have a huge impact. You'd be able to play big money at the beginning, but would later be forced to look at kingdom cards to keep improving your deck's power (if there's any good ones left!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I think it would make the game more interesting by challenging the assumption that treasure if always available and making you take that and other player's treasure levels into account. You'd be racing to get treasure as well as good kingdom cards at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think 8 and 5 per person wouldn't mess with the game too much as treasures are a huge part of any deck, but would make the game a little more interesting as you'd have to consider other options if they ran out. If you just wanted a slight impact, 8 and 5 would probably be good. If you wanted to change the game even more and make actions that produce money and give +cards even more important, you could try limiting down further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably leave the copper at 60, because I'd rather keep the strategies that make the otherwise weakest card in the game more powerful for variety's sake. Plus, copper should be more plentiful anyway. I'd also say depleting a treasure pile does NOT count toward game end, just like in the normal game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Once I've tried this a few times I'll report back again :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T15:44:36.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2757" CreationDate="2011-02-28T16:06:43.463" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't think this seems like a good idea.  The game is balanced around the availability of these treasures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Kingdom piles change from game to game, so the only reliable element for your deck is treasure at 3 and 6 coins respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player to buy a Gold already has a statistical advantage in Dominion, but this would enhance that advantage even further, since late-peaking players might not be able to GET any Gold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that, depending on how MUCH you limit, this change would have one of two effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No effect, because there's still more Silver and Gold than your players buy anyway.  In many of the games my group plays 5 Gold per player would seldom run out, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An overly punishing effect.  You got 6 coins this turn, but there are no decent 5-cost Kingdom cards and the Gold is gone!  You just got screwed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say &quot;This would create a little more competition in getting treasures into your deck&quot; but when I play Dominion I'm &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; competing to get treasures into my deck.  If an opponent lands 2 or 3 Gold before I get one, I know I'm in trouble and had better pull off something amazing if I'm going to have a chance.  Making the piles run out won't make me any more competitive, it'll just harm everybody later.  I'm already always keeping other players' treasure levels in mind, because that determines how soon the Provinces may run out and whether I can even count on being able to afford Provinces or should just go for Duchies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the intent of this change is merely to discourage players from playing Big Money, I don't think this is the way to do it.  Big Money is not an optimal strategy and will lose frequently to even relatively simple Action-based strategies once players figure them out.  Play the base set a few times buying one Smithy or Laboratory+Chapel and see how long they keep playing Big Money!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also feels like this change would bog down the middle-to-end game of every game as you would be unable to keep the treasure and victory levels of your decks balanced.  Even if everybody got exactly the same amount of Gold during the build-up, your decks will all get slower and slower as you start buying the Provinces, since you won't be able to offset those with more Gold.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, the game was definitely designed so that Treasure is not expected to run out - the Intrigue rules even say &quot;these cards are intended to be in abundant enough supply to not run out&quot;.  I think there are good reasons why Silver and Gold are effectively unlimited, and I don't think limiting those piles would make for much more fun in the long run.  Experienced players will already be competing for Gold regardless of the supply, and will already be tracking their opponents' treasure levels to adjust their strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T16:06:43.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-02-28T16:07:04.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blokus.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blokus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead simple rules, probably takes 30 seconds to explain, but the strategy really gets interesting. As you get better the game will evolve with you. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-02-28T16:07:04.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2900" CreationDate="2011-03-01T02:57:00.337" Score="5" ViewCount="5253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies 2nd edition had two primary ground units: infantry (1/2/1/3 attack/defense/move/cost) and armor (3/2/2/5). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis2004.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies Revised&lt;/a&gt; increased the defense of armor to 3 and added an artillery unit (2/2/1/4) that has the special ability to increase the attack value of any accompanying infantry from 1 to 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don Rae's famous &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;infantry push mechanic&lt;/a&gt; was written for 2nd edition rules and argues that a good player will predominately purchase infantry, only buying tanks when they have established solid defensive lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the addition of the artillery unit and the increase in the defensive power of armor change the optimal balance of ground forces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T15:49:50.100" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T11:05:45.253" Title="What is the optimal mix of infantry, artillery, and armor in Axis and Allies Revised?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2011-03-01T03:33:32.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Free rolls for colors you've already earned wedges for&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One variant I've considered several times but never had the opportunity to try is letting someone roll again when they land on a space that matches the color of a wedge they've already won. It would definitely speed up the game but I've been worried about two downsides: first, there would be a lot of rolling near the end of the game, which could get boring to watch; second, it would give a big advantage to anyone who was in the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T03:33:32.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2726" CreationDate="2011-03-01T04:49:44.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, I don't know Naoki Homma's reasoning for his points system, but probably the answer to your question is that turning the points around would drastically disbalance the game.  The main reason is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A positive point for you is like giving every other player a negative point&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing with multiple players in a game, one must be very careful about giving one player an advantage because it's the same as giving all other players a disadvantage (and visa-versa).  This bonus is powerful enough so that a single extra card (making 6 cards) can make a huge point swing:  -10 -9 -8 -7 -6 = -40 points to +6 * 3 (in a 3 player game) = 18 points.  So one card makes the difference of 58 relative points in the game.  The other way, it turns -40 into -6, which is still huge (34 points), but nearly half as big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T04:49:44.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2767" CreationDate="2011-03-01T07:44:44.347" Score="4" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many quorum cards feature an effect that says &quot;give this card to another player&quot;. That player then receives some kind of passive privilege (does not require an action) like determining the next FTL jump destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Can the receiving player use that card's action too (and pass it on to yet another player) or is it only to remind people of the passive privilege?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My instinct tells me that it's only a reminder but I couldn't find a clarification for either alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T16:55:57.330" Title="Reuse Quorum cards with &quot;Give this card to another player&quot;" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2011-03-01T08:23:27.730" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have previously played on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epicmafia.com/home&quot;&gt;Epic Mafia&lt;/a&gt; (which is linked to from the Wikipedia page in the question).  They have the largest &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.epicmafia.com/index.php?title=Characters&quot;&gt;set of player characters&lt;/a&gt; I have seen, some of which makes the game extremely complicated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T08:23:27.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2765" CreationDate="2011-03-01T15:02:51.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if this were allowed, how would the other person play it?  It's not creating a new hand of cards and new delegated political powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no precedent in-game for cards to be 'read' twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if this worked this way it would be &lt;em&gt;deeply weird&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those reasons I say no &quot;pass[ing] it on to yet another player&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-03-01T16:55:57.330" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T16:55:57.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2781" CreationDate="2011-03-01T15:33:59.020" Score="15" ViewCount="9244" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instructions on epidemics ask that the discard pile be reshuffled and put back as the last action to take with the card. This means that if a player draws two epidemic cards at the same time, there won't be a discard pile for the pandemic to use for the outbreak step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the most appropriate way to handle this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="974" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T15:47:06.717" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T02:57:19.517" Title="How do you handle two epidemics in a row in pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2772" CreationDate="2011-03-01T16:58:36.467" Score="14" ViewCount="3088" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for outbreak chains to loop - would it be possible for a city to experience an outbreak twice in the same round as a result of a chain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="974" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T17:22:38.490" Title="Can outbreak chains loop?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2771" CreationDate="2011-03-01T17:22:38.490" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/Pandemic_Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state &quot;Note that each city may only outbreak once in each chain reaction.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T17:22:38.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2882" CreationDate="2011-03-01T18:49:02.547" Score="4" ViewCount="4761" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. So Mansions of Madness is practically here. I know I can't be the only one who's hotly anticipating this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only question I have about it is this: The game comes 5 scenarios included, each with 3 variations, for a total of 15 unique games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the included scenarios be hacked, modified, customized or remixed? Can entirely new scenarios be created from the existing components?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that there are people out there who have had their hands on this for some time already, and I want to know what they think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, 15 scenarios is a lot - especially since players won't know exactly what path they're on until they uncover late-game clues. But I'm interested in the answer to this question from a re-playability standpoint, especially with regard to community-created scenarios vs. officially released expansions. I don't have anything against official expansions - I just imagine that if the game is as good as I expect, my group will be ready for something new well before FFG is ready to release one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Now that the game has been out for a while, the community really seems to be supporting it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/files/thing/83330&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; has a number of scenarios and tools for crafting your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T17:07:28.650" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:01:19.260" Title="Creating Scenarios for Mansions of Madness" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2768" CreationDate="2011-03-01T19:12:01.673" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Epidemic-shuffling instructions in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/product-details.php?id=1246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pandemic rules&lt;/a&gt; seem to sort of lower the odds that two Epidemic cards are ever adjacent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Divide the remaining Player cards into a number of piles according to how diﬃcult you’d like to make &#xA;  the game. Make the piles as equal in size as is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuﬄe an Epidemic card into each pile. Stack the piles on top of each other to form the Player &#xA;  Draw Pile. (If the piles aren’t exactly the same size, stack them so that the larger piles are &#xA;  above the smaller piles.) Put any excess Epidemic cards back into the box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will obviously spread the Epidemics out throughout the deck, but my group also interprets &quot;shuffle into&quot; to imply that we shouldn't let the Epidemic we're putting in each pile to end up on the top or bottom.  As long as the Epidemics are somewhere in the middle of each pile, you won't get two in a row.  Although you might get two very close together and it certainly does suck when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting the deck up in this way will guarantee you don't get a double-epidemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="5759" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T02:57:19.517" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T02:57:19.517" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2720" CreationDate="2011-03-01T21:47:57.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using existing classification systems like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dewey_Decimal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dewey Decimal system&lt;/a&gt;. The 10 main classes are not all useful for Trivia, but digging through the subclasses may provide a good starting point. Wikipedia also has categories for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category%3aKnowledge_representation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Knowledge representation&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category%3aClassification_systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Classification systems&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T21:47:57.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2768" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:11:50.110" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You completely resolve one epidemic card and then the other. I don't have any concrete rule to back that up but consider what would happen if you drew the two cards separately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case it would be obvious that you resolve each card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now consider if there should be a difference to what happens in the game depending on how you draw your cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:11:50.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2734" CreationDate="2011-03-01T22:23:47.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I figured it out. Under &quot;Component Limitations&quot; it says that if the Quorum cards deck runs out you shuffle all discarded Quorum cards into a new deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that if you fail the check you have a chance of getting the card again IF you manage to burn through the whole Quorum deck. If you succeed then the card won't come again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now I just never considered that you might actually get to draw all the Quorum cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-01T22:23:47.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2812" CreationDate="2011-03-02T02:39:02.150" Score="1" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading so much about how Battlestar Galactica was a better game than Shadows Over Camelot, I became determined to help it and see if I could help it at all in the contest. One of the issues was how easy it is for your turn to become very boring, like when you do nothing but play a grail or other card. This requires very little strategy, discussion, or decision, and it seems like the game could be speeded up a little without any huge disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the game is based on the balance of good vs. evil actions, why not just do 2 evil actions and 2 heroic actions per turn? This could be a small disadvantage as more bad things will happen before your next turn, but is it fairly balanced out by the double good actions? Most other cooperative games give you multiple actions, and as it gives you more choices, it makes the decision of what to do during your turn all the more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this hurt the balance of the game? Is there anything I can do to counteract its effect or reduce turns where very little thinking is required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T15:29:35.343" Title="Would using 2 progressions of evil and 2 heroic actions per turn destroy the balance of Shadows Over Camelot?" Tags="|house-rules|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:41:02.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I find about a weak NT is when the LHO overcalls it, it can be hard for the 3rd player to compete to find a fit. The system I play makes it easier to find a fit when you don't open 1NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although finding a fit after a strong NT has been intervened might be just as hard, you will be able to play in 2NT more frequently when there is no fit, and you're certainly unlikely to get doubled there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catching the opps for a penalty when they intervene over a weak 1NT at the wrong moment sounds great and sometimes it may be but as with using penalty doubles of overcalls in the regular situation, it loses you a bid you can use to compete to find a fit of your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for getting doubled in 1NT, not as frequent as you think but at MP vulnerable you certainly risk -200 when the opps are only making a part-score or were only ever going to bid to one, and even -100 going down 1 may be bad as 1NT making for the opps is only +90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T15:41:02.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2640" CreationDate="2011-03-02T15:50:19.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice to see a spades question here. I used to play spades a lot around 2003 but haven't played at all recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally hate blind-nils and we used to outlaw those. I used to discuss scoring with people a lot and we generally felt the nil-bonus of 100 was far too high, as the game just became dominated by nil-bidding. I felt 70 was a reasonable nil-score. 50 was suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;must be X points behind&quot; rule means that you can't catch usually the other team on this board even if you succeed, and you certainly can't win the game instantly with it. It also means a team can try to ensure they don't go too far ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T15:50:19.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2661" CreationDate="2011-03-02T17:29:56.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process I currently follow is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scan for broken combos&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scan for power cards (most of the list from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2661/strategies-and-kingdom-cards-for-a-strong-opening-in-dominion/2664#2664&quot;&gt;philosophyguy's answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for a quick path to anything found in step 1 or 2 using your starting split&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for blocking strategies if step 3 failed or you are seated poorly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If none of the above provide a good path to victory, fall to your default strategy (be it Big Money or other traditional buys)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get better at the game the combos you recognize in step 1 will increase and the number of cards you can juggle increases. A two-card combo is relatively easy to spot; three or four-card combos are a bit trickier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is probably room between steps 4 and 5 to look for solid combos that can enhance your preferred play style but are not game winners in themselves. Hoard + Salvager is a good example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T17:29:56.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:09:10.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/strong&gt; both have interesting player interactions similar to Mafia/Werewolf. The group is working together as a team with a potential for one player to secretly be working against the group. I wouldn't classify either game as simple, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T19:09:10.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:14:55.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cosmic Encounter&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39463/cosmic-encounter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG link&lt;/a&gt;) is a simple game that offers plenty of opportunities for players to ally and attack each other. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/547153/one-of-the-most-fun-games-i-ever-played-even-thoug&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This BGG review&lt;/a&gt; offers a quick description of the game. The relevant mechanic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Encounter cards can either Attack or Negotiate. Attack cards have numeric values that players add up to count their strength. Attack is very simple with the player with the higher score winning the battle. Defender wins ties. Negotiate auto loses but here's the kicker, the one who Negotiates gets to draw cards equal to the number of ships he had involved in the Encounter, from the winner. If both sides Negotiate, they have one minute to deal (meaning trade cards or colonies), or they both lose 3 ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T19:14:55.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2792" CreationDate="2011-03-02T19:49:48.507" Score="5" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you can take any number of different paths leading in the general direction of victory.  Build short routes and grab points for being the first to complete a region.  Build long routes and grab points for being the first to build long routes.  Concentrate on finishing one big region for a hefty points boost.  Spread your houses all over the board to be the first to have a presence in every region.  Play out as many houses as possible to be in the best position when the game ends early.  Play conservatively to maximise the value of the houses you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just feels like any of these opposing and contradictory strategies could win the game, depending on the right cards being available on your turn, of course!  But I can't believe that T&amp;amp;T is that random - I must just not have &quot;gotten&quot; it yet.  Therefore, what are the best ways to sit down at a table with other relative newbies and do well at Thurn &amp;amp; Taxis? Mega bonus points for describing how/if this changes if you're playing with the quite different rules in the sequel (&quot;The Power and the Glory&quot; I believe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T02:48:47.053" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T02:48:47.053" Title="What's The Strongest Base Strategy in Thurn &amp; Taxis?" Tags="|thurn-and-taxis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2791" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:03:12.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this is &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the fun of the game and all its expansions (and a few others like it): there is not one strategy that is guaranteed to do well, but you have to constantly adapt your strategy to what cards are available, what the other players do, etc. I would consider this a virtue of the game, and would typically consider a game that has one winning strategy to be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It often happens to me that I play a game that's new to me, lose to someone more experienced who did better in one particular area, and decide that improving that area is going to be my strategy because I now see that it is 'obviously' better than concentrating on other areas. Then in the rematch, the positions are reversed and the other player creams me with my 'original' strategy. The lesson is that the difficulty of the game is not in implementing a strategy - anyone can do that - but in recognizing which of the many available strategies is called for in a given situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T21:03:12.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2800" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:03:28.013" Score="12" ViewCount="2313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion is the specific example I would like to play with but this certainly applies to any game that involves decks of cards being shuffled and drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often see references to various simulations that people have run or built to test theories but whenever I dig through their code I seem to discover their simulation was custom-built for one or two test cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I am asking: How are people making these simulations so quickly? I assume that there are a few preferred (or common) ways to do this seeing how many times I see people talking about their simulations. What is a good starter kit for me to learn how to do my own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers that will help: Specific languages, libraries, helpful mathematic formulae, links to projects, and typical pitfalls to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T21:17:36.420" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:56:57.653" Title="What is a quick way to test or simulate card strategies for deck building games?" Tags="|dominion|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2797" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:37:07.883" Score="14" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a reaction card, Watchtower can be revealed whenever you gain a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mszW6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Watchtower card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this apply to the card you receive from other players during a Masquerade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RaAdf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Masquerade card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-03T16:58:19.923" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T06:36:47.793" Title="Watchtower when someone uses a Masquerade" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:43:33.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add a bit to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2088/why-is-real-money-betting-necessary-for-poker-to-be-fun/2091#2091&quot;&gt;thesunneversets excellent answer&lt;/a&gt;, any individual game or table of Poker is not interesting in and of itself to matter with fake points. If you held a long standing leaderboard with fake points you could easily find a group of people who started taking the game seriously. Turning the fake points into money makes them matter again and succeeding a Poker becomes a long-term strategy over many, many games played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T21:43:33.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2794" CreationDate="2011-03-02T21:49:19.183" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  A passed card is not considered a gained card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_306_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intrigue rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Pass” – when a player passes a card to another player, he places that card face down on the table between himself and the other player. The receiving player then takes the card from the table and puts it in his hand. A passed card is not revealed to the other players. A passed card is not considered to be trashed or discarded by the player passing it and it is not considered to be gained by the player receiving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-02T22:09:10.483" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T22:09:10.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2073" CreationDate="2011-03-02T23:22:44.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our box set has the Little Girl, and it works fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages:&#xA;The Little Girl (with a little skill/luck) can find most (if not all) of the Warewolves. How many depends on where they're sitting relative to the wolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&#xA;If you get caught, you're dead - and since everyone else is sitting still, your ability to look around is limited.&#xA;You still need to convince people. And the more you let on that you &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; they're the Wolf, the more likely you are to get eaten the next night. (I suppose the Wolves could just look at you really closely, but my experience is they just get eaten in retaliation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-03-02T23:22:44.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2793" CreationDate="2011-03-03T00:22:50.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I admit I don't have much experience in actually doing this, so I have no idea how well any of these actually work and can't make any guarantees myself. But I'm sure there are others who can, and these are probably some great starting points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/49502/dominion-simulation-python-framework&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dominion simulator python framework&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/513719/dominion-strategy-simulator-now-available-to-downl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/vdom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vdom java simulator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/projects/domstrasim/files/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A sourceforge project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/dominionsim/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominionsim&lt;/a&gt; is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/681/strategies-to-beat-only-buy-money-players-in-dominion/689#689&quot;&gt;mentioned here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some I found for Magic: The Gathering. Once again, I can't make any personal guarantees:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgstudio.com/FeatureComparison.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Studio&lt;/a&gt; (don't know if it actually supports simulations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicworkstation.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Workstation&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are anyone else has more feedback on any of these, I'd love to here it!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T02:50:05.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2793" CreationDate="2011-03-03T00:51:54.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm one of the guys working on &lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/dominionsim/&quot;&gt;DominionSim&lt;/a&gt; (although the googlecode version isn't up to date*) and we're trying to implement all the cards/rules, not just build for one test case.  That said, we still have a ways to go implementing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way DominionSim in particular works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's written in C#&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to test a specific behavior you write a Strategy class that implements IStrategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we've done several simplistic strategies using the base set already&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supports 2 to 6 player games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;supports &quot;tourneys&quot; that play all the strategies against each other at least once&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically once we've implemented all the cards it'll be pretty easy to test new ideas, although at the moment it would still require downloading the source code and adding your own IStrategy implementation written in C#.  I may investigate implementing a rules-based Strategy like those found at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://simulatedominion.wordpress.com/&quot;&gt;Simulate Dominion&lt;/a&gt; blog at some point, so that folks could just mess with a rules file and not need to recompile or know C#.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Hopefully the latest version will be publicly available soon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T00:51:54.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2808" CreationDate="2011-03-03T14:11:51.293" Score="17" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am developing a card game that involves building out sequences of matching symbol pairs and also has a lose state for a (different set) of symbols that is hidden to the player. Trying to create an atmosphere of paranoia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to be sure I'm balancing the deck to create probably winning and losing sequences and can code a bit - but I was wondering if any of you used a specific application to run probabilities? Mac OSX would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="983" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T19:02:27.030" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T19:02:27.030" Title="Are there statistic/probabilty applications specifically made for card game designers?" Tags="|game-design|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2806" CreationDate="2011-03-03T19:31:05.933" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Are you up for a DIY Monte Carlo simulation?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any specific applications, but if you're comfortable with coding I suggest you gin up a little &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Carlo_method&quot;&gt;Monte Carlo simulation&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you're not familiar with how that would work I'll explain (and can elaborate later if necessary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Populate some sort of database or data structure with your cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write a function that draws from this list at random and marks the card as drawn so it couldn't be re-sampled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write another function to evaluate the built-out sequence to evaluate win or loss &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrap this core program with a loop that would play the game a huge number of times and&#xA;generate statistics on the results (e.g. number of wins and losses, longest streak of consecutive wins and losses, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first three steps are a simple computer implementation of your card game. The trick is to model everything that's important to the mechanic and nothing that's not (easier said than done right?) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last part is the Monte Carlo simulation where you use brute force computation (yea for cheap comp cycles) to get a result instead of trying to calculate probabilities closed-form, which for even simple card and dice games is more math (and more error-prone math) than most people are comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T19:31:05.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-03-03T21:33:30.310" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you fall behind in a &quot;for fun&quot; game, the best strategy becomes to make high risk yet high reward choices. Essentially, if you are sitting in last place, you've got nothing to lose so you might as well risk it all for a shot at the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life poker, you are always in a situation where you have something to lose: your money. Every dollar counts, so players will not change their strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T21:33:30.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6276" CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:33:49.050" Score="11" ViewCount="1739" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the King awards you a favour in Caylus, which track should you choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is one track more beneficial than another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What circumstances make a particular favour track more or less useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T06:01:09.370" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:22:38.843" Title="Which circumstances make one favour track better than another in Caylus?" Tags="|caylus|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2011-03-03T23:49:26.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real (and boring) answer is: it's going to vary, depending on the specific circumstances of the game you're playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer: the victory point track is very strong, and a good default option.  The build track is also extremely strong, as can be guessed from the fact that you don't even &lt;em&gt;get a bonus&lt;/em&gt; the first time you move on it!  The money track is not so great, but sometimes it's exactly what you need if you're finding it hard to get funds any other way.  In my personal experience, the goods track is the weakest.  It's usually possible to get goods through normal actions, and the gold at the top end of the track is less good than just getting 5 victory points... unless you've set up a bunch of exciting things to spend your gold on.  But that seems like a lot of extra hoops to jump through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other people's mileage may vary, naturally!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-03-03T23:49:26.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2784" CreationDate="2011-03-04T02:42:56.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would make the game much easier.  The ability to focus effort on quests is how the knights win.  Travel time relative to card draws would go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick example, 5 player game, you have fought cards 1-5, so you go to the Picts quest.  It starts as your turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Progression of Evil / You move to quest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 5 -- Quest Completes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total PEs possibly ending your quest in a loss: 22&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original rules, it looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Progression of Evil / You move to quest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 other PEs from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PE / You play 5 -- Quest Completes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total PEs possibly ending your quest in a loss: 26&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, by focusing the effort, you've saving 4 progressions of evils (the other player's turns) on your quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T16:18:20.883" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T16:18:20.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2794" CreationDate="2011-03-04T15:13:03.420" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way you gain a card is if the card specifically says the word &quot;gain&quot; or when you spend money to buy it off of a supply pile. Anything else that results in you having a new card in your deck is not a &quot;gain&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Total brain fart, thanks commenters!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="721" LastEditorUserId="721" LastEditDate="2011-03-06T06:36:47.793" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T06:36:47.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2817" CreationDate="2011-03-04T19:43:34.213" Score="13" ViewCount="8295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in college I had a friend teach me a different way to play a solitaire-like game.  It was played in-hand which meant you could play it while standing in line or any time you were bored and had a deck of cards handy.  Here's the rough idea of what I remember of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards held face down in a stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cards drawn from the bottom of the deck, flipped and put on top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goal was to match the outside 2 of the top 4 cards (cards 1 and 4 if you number them from the top)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matching may have been based on suit or card number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Might have been matched as all 4 of the same suit or outside matching by number, I can't quite remember&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were rules I can't remember that let you rearrange the top cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If top 4 cards can't be matched then you draw from the bottom until you can match&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a match was made it was moved to the bottom of the face-up cards to get it out of the way&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice feature of the game was that it always stayed in a stack other than fanning out the top cards.  If you have to stop playing you just collapse the fanned cards, put the deck back in the box.  Later on you can pull out the deck and start right where you left off.  It was a fun way to burn time while waiting for something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound familiar to anyone?  I've looked for the rules but I have no idea what the game is called and I haven't been able to find anything similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T02:25:52.523" Title="Looking to identify a particular form of solitaire played in-hand, not on a table" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2011-03-04T20:22:48.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're describing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One-Handed_Solitaire_%28Solitaire%29&quot;&gt;One-Handed Solitaire&lt;/a&gt;, or a variant of it. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_4514558_play-one-handed-solitaire.html&quot;&gt;second description&lt;/a&gt; of the rules. It's actually possible to play several solitaire games in this way, where you use the top of the deck as a kind of compressed tableau, and store the discards in the draw deck itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-03-04T20:22:48.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2818" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-05T03:16:36.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T03:16:36.073" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T03:16:36.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2819" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-05T03:16:36.073" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T03:16:36.073" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T03:16:36.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-05T04:03:13.670" Score="5" ViewCount="2803" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if you play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne room, choosing a Throne room, each time choosing a Caravan?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King's Court, choosing a King's Court, each time choosing a Caravan?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, what will your play area look like at the start of your next turn? How many cards will you draw at the start of your next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is different from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1700/in-dominion-how-do-duration-cards-interact-with-kings-court-throne-room&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;; it is more complex than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T13:03:00.573" Title="What happens when playing Throne Room / King's Court *twice* with Caravan?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2820" CreationDate="2011-03-05T04:16:43.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is still answered on page 4 here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would only need to keep out whichever card(s) directly affected a Duration card. For example, if you TR a TR, then play 2 Caravans on that second TR, you only need to keep out the second TR, and I would probably arrange it and the 2 Caravans in sort of an inverted tree format, with the Throne Room above and between the Caravans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T04:16:43.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2820" CreationDate="2011-03-05T06:54:57.567" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic rule is given in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seaside Rules&lt;/a&gt;, pg4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play or modify a Duration card with another card, that&#xA;other card also stays in your play area until it is no longer doing&#xA;anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a chain of Throne Rooms or King's Court, you need to retain the cards necessary to correctly process everything on the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your examples, discard the initial card (whether Throne Room or King's Court).  The remaining Throne Room is sufficient to indicate that each Caravan needs to be played twice at the beginning of your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the next turn, each Caravan would be played twice for a total of +4 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two more examples should clarify the remaining edge cases here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Example 1:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room (1)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Throne Room(2), doubled by (1)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Throne Room(3), doubled by (2)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Caravan(A), doubled by (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Caravan(B), doubled by (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Throne Room(4), doubled by (2)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Caravan(C), doubled by (4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chose Caravan(D), doubled by (4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you will retain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All 4 Caravans obviously (ABCD)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Rooms (3) and (4) as they directly modify the Caravans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room (2) as it will indicate that Throne Rooms (3) and (4) need to be doubled, subsequently doubling the Caravans again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throne Room (1) can be discarded as it is has no effect on the Caravans next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Example 2:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room (1)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room (2), doubled by (1)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room (3), doubled by (2)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caravan (A), doubled by (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caravan (B), doubled by (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Caravan (C), doubled by (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; cards will be retained.  Throne Room (1) is needed to indicate that Caravan (C) needs to be doubled next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King's Court will work the same general way, it just makes for even messier examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've distilled this answer from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/456393/throne-room-duration-cards/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek thread&lt;/a&gt; where the answers were provided by Donald X. Vaccarino, the designer of Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He recommends (as do I, for what it's worth) that you use some sort of tree format to help lay everything out as I've done above.  It will help remind you which cards are affecting which in these tricky situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T13:03:00.573" CommentCount="6" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-03-09T20:08:28.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2826" CreationDate="2011-03-05T13:28:41.473" Score="8" ViewCount="7320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been enjoying playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/50/lost-cities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/a&gt; a great deal, but find it very difficult to decide what to do over the first few turns — in particular deciding things like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long is it worth waiting to see if an investment card comes up, if you have some good high cards for an expedition?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are enough points in a city to make it worth starting?  I've been typically waiting until I have about 15 points, and I'm guessing this is too cautious.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it worth starting an expedition if you just have three low cards, say?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you deal with having a hand of high cards (which you don't want to discard) but nothing lower to start off an expedition with?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, part of the fun has been in taking a big risk because you don't have any better options, but I wondered if people had any tried-and-tested rules of thumb to help beginners deal with the opening of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:29:46.420" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T16:37:11.543" Title="What are good strategies for deciding which expeditions to start in Lost Cities?" Tags="|lost-cities|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3511" CreationDate="2011-03-05T16:42:35.080" Score="3" ViewCount="569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adventure 3 in the Castle Ravenloft Adventure book has this special rule for dealing with Klak's Artifact:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attacking Klak's Artifact will destroy it.  When attacking the artifact, treat the artifact as a Monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work with powers that move monsters?  For example, &lt;strong&gt;Tide of Iron&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The artifact is represented by a 2x2 marker.  Markers don't typically move, but I didn't see any rule explicitly stating this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T05:22:14.953" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T05:22:14.953" Title="Is Klak's Infernal Artifact affected by powers that move monsters?" Tags="|castle-ravenloft|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2820" CreationDate="2011-03-05T17:44:36.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Donald (the game designer) answers this question in an extended thread on BoardGameGeek; here is his algorithm for what you do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you TR or KC a duration card, leave out the TR or KC with the duration card. [It's tracking that you doubled or tripled that card]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you TR or KC a TR-or-KC used on a single duration card (and up to 2 non-duration cards), don't leave it out. [It's not tracking anything.] [You still leave out the one that hit the duration card though.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you TR or KC a TR-or-KC used on two or three duration cards, leave it out. [It's tracking the extra doubling/tripling done by the latter TR or KC, which also stays out.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Therefore I am going to go back on my ruling from yesterday for what happens if you KC a KC a KC used on 3 duration cards. The 3rd KC stays out obv. The 2nd one stays out; it's indicating that the 3rd one hits 3 things. The first KC is doing nothing and so goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If instead you KC a KC, and that one KC's 1) a KC for 3 duration cards, 2) a duration card, 3) a non-duration, then you would keep the first KC out, as now it's indicating that the 2nd KC got to hit 3 cards, necessary for that 4th duration card to be tripled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the rule is to leave in play as many TR/KC as are necessary to track what is happening, but no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full thread is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/456393/throne-room-duration-cards/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;; my quote from Donald is on page 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in response to your specific scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TR-TR-Caravan x 2&lt;/strong&gt;: All four cards stay out; Donald recommends placing the cards in branching format so it is clear that the Caravans were both played by the second TR. All four stay out because the first TR is what allows the second TR to play both duration cards twice. If you played one Caravan and one non-duration card with the second TR, then the first TR would be discarded at the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;KC-KC-Caravan x 3&lt;/strong&gt;: Same deal; all five stay out. If you only played one Caravan with the tripled KC and played two non-duration cards, then the first KC would not stay in play.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2011-03-05T17:50:59.990" LastActivityDate="2011-03-05T17:50:59.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2011-03-06T04:43:55.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) You want to wait, but you can't wait all &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; long.  Sitting there with half your hand made up of cards that you don't want to play is normally a huge problem in Lost Cities, and you risk giving up a huge amount of tempo to your opponent, in the very small hope of drawing one specific card.  Sometimes you just have to quit hoping and start playing - after all, your opponent may have those investment cards in HIS hand!  (Of course, holding out &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; result in the dream scenario - your opponent laying down multiple investment cards for a colour in which you hold a balance of points...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) With multiple investment cards?  15 sounds a safe-ish bet.  But let's not forget that you can embark on expeditions without investment.  I'm perfectly happy to start off expeditions with barely any cards sometimes - just because putting pressure on and psyching out your opponent can easily be worth the potential loss of 10+ points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) As above.  I certainly would, but I almost certainly wouldn't risk multiplying my losses by 3 or 4 by playing investment cards first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Possibly the most difficult scenario - you don't want to discard high cards and you don't want to play high cards, so what do you do?  It can be quite good to bait your opponent by discarding medium-value cards, while holding the higher values so when they snap your discard up, you know they're on a hiding to nothing.  But I agree, it's a hard situation to deal with comfortably.  (Then again, it's difficult for me to feel &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; sympathy for someone whose &quot;problem&quot; is being dealt a hand of strong cards!  Just play out an 8-9-10 for +7 points, and see what you draw in the meantime: a few investment cards would obviously have been nice to have, but it's not like you've really lost anything, is it?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T04:43:55.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2823" CreationDate="2011-03-06T04:51:08.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for an advanced strategy, the game comes down to basically one question: &quot;Will I get card X before the game ends?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These answer to this is based on two things, first, is the odds of you getting any particular card you want, and second, the likelihood of getting it 'in time'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a card you want is fairly simple, it's the odds it's still in the draw pile times 50%.  When the game starts you have the best chance of it being in the draw pile, as opposed to already in your opponent's hand.  You need to read your opponent to get at the first part of this, but for any strategy for early game, it's probably safe to assume slightly less than 50% chance of getting any card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second bit, namely playing things 'in time' the rules allow counting the remaining cards.  This needs to be combined with the likelihood that either you or your opponent will draw from the discard piles instead of the draw pile, thus slowing the game down.  You control your draw choices, so, in effect can slow the game ending by up to twice as many turns as the remaining number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for rules of thumb, which there aren't many because the game is quite tactical, I'd say that calculating the expected value of remaining probabilities for cards undrawn, and assuming that your opponent's hand is 75% full of the cards you need is the safe way to go.&#xA;Also, don't reveal your intentions (start expeditions) until you absolutely have to, as this increases the chance that your opponent will start/discard cards you need before you do.  In this way it's not about what cards to have before starting, it's about your opponent's reveal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, specific answers:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw until odds are less than 50%.  If you have 3 cards, and 10 remain in the deck, assume your opponent has four of them, so there are 3 remaining.  With proper math probabilities, you need to draw 3 times to have a better than 50% chance of getting one of the those 3 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This depends on when in the game you are.  15 points is probably too high early on, but I wouldn't start an expedition with 15 until I know if my opponent is or isn't competing in it (and they don't have hand room to block me on it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably not.  Even early game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Depends on when in the game it is.  Early on you can try for cornering the market early on it, before it's revealed.  However, it's probably the first expedition you start, getting those cards out early so you can keep the next one secret (where there will be more competition).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T04:51:08.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2011-03-06T15:17:42.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always called that game Idiot's Delight or Idiot's Solitaire.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Idiot%27s_Delight_%28solitaire%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; seems to think that's maybe not the appropriate name.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1004" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T15:17:42.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2840" CreationDate="2011-03-06T20:00:46.960" Score="13" ViewCount="10867" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a barrel (or the character whose power emulates a barrel) be used to attempt to mitigate the Bang! effect from a Gatling card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T12:34:10.673" Title="Can a Barrel block Gatling?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-06T20:39:14.647" Score="11" ViewCount="7211" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in 4-player Bang!, there is a Sheriff (wins when all others are dead), a Renegade (wins when all others are dead) and 2 Outlaws (win when the Sheriff is dead).  So your typical game opens with the two outlaws shooting the Sheriff, the Sheriff shooting the Outlaws, and the Renegade being forced to shoot the Outlaws so that they don't kill the Sheriff too quickly.  This has the effect of telegraphing to all players involved who the Renegade is; the resulting game devolves into a shootout with no subtlety or strategy;  everyone knows everyone's situation and there are no surprises.  Are there better or more optimized strategies for these situations?  Or does the game only hit its stride with more players involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T02:34:22.907" Title="What strategies can you use as a Renegade in 4 player games to maintain your cover?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2829" CreationDate="2011-03-06T20:58:20.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not. The Gatling just applies a Bang! to all other players. So, from each other player's perspective, it shouldn't be treated any differently than if a Bang! card had been played against them directly, in which case the Barrel (or character ability) would be perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T20:58:20.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2011-03-06T22:13:24.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auction all locations before the start of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my view offering an auction if the current player doesn't buy a property is good, not only because it reduces game time; but more importantly because it reduces the element of chance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going around the board and auctioning each property before the beginning of the game (with the reserve price as listed) massively emplifies these pluses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1005" LastEditorDisplayName="user1005" LastEditDate="2011-03-06T22:42:42.677" LastActivityDate="2011-03-06T22:42:42.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2838" CreationDate="2011-03-06T23:45:37.253" Score="23" ViewCount="3764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering getting card protectors for my dominion game. Do the cards still fit back into their slots in the box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ones I was thinking about were the ones advertised in the box with dominion from Mayday Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-01-01T15:43:26.933" LastActivityDate="2017-01-30T23:33:33.303" Title="Can I use sleeve protectors for Dominion cards and still fit them back into the box?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2836" CreationDate="2011-03-07T01:54:59.080" Score="14" ViewCount="4018" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bang!, if I have 1 bullet left and the Dynamite blows up on me for 3 damage, can I use Beer and wind up at 1 life at the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T03:25:00.500" Title="Can a Beer protect me from Dynamite overkill?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2830" CreationDate="2011-03-07T02:28:11.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure Bang! is really about maintaining cover, anyway. Even for big games, it seems like ideal Bang! strategy is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Outlaws try to spike down the Sheriff roughly ASAP, though they can sometimes wait until most players have long-range guns before exposing themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Once the Outlaws are dead, the Renegade immediately tries to kill the weakened Sheriff before he gets time to recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only subtlety I see is that, if the Outlaws are having a tough time, the Renegade should stop shooting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right, though, that in 4-player, because the range is so short, Outlaws don't even need to wait until long-range guns are out. And there's no moment of wondering who the Renegade is -- in larger games, that moment is brief, but it does exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T02:28:11.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2834" CreationDate="2011-03-07T03:25:00.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have to play 3 beers to wind up with 1 bullet if the dynamite blew up on you with 1 bullet left. Here's an example in the rule book for the beer card that explains it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;. You have 2 life points left, and suffer 3 damages from a Dynamite. If you play 2 Beers you will stay alive with 1 life point left (2-3+2), while you would be eliminated playing only one Beer that would allow you to regain just 1 life point. You would still be at zero!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T03:25:00.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2829" CreationDate="2011-03-07T05:02:56.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a Barrel can be used to block a Gatling, as well as other cards with &lt;em&gt;Bang!&lt;/em&gt; symbols, such as Knife, Buffalo Rifle, Punch (funny, right?), Derringer, Howitzer and so forth. Of course, it won't work against Duel or Indians!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1006" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T20:13:39.327" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T20:13:39.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-03-07T06:09:09.343" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the Mayday games sleeves for all my Dominion cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sets of 10 Kingdom cards will still fit in their slots in the box just fine.  More numerous cards (like the Treasure and VPs) either will not fit at all, or will have to be jammed in pretty tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I put Dominion, Intrigue, Seaside and Alchemy into two &quot;long boxes&quot; that you see used for CCGs, with little labeled tabs I printed from BGG separating them.  This takes up a lot less room than the 3 large boxes and half-size Alchemy box, and makes the game portable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prosperity is still in its original box since I'm out of space in my long boxes.  I keep all the Kingdom cards in their original slot, but keep Colony and Platinum in some of the larger unused slots rather than the ones labeled for them, because I don't like the tight fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T06:09:09.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2011-03-07T06:19:52.017" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the games I play, players tend to go for the building track. They use the track to build the best buildings early, such as those that provide great resources. They rack up victory points when people visit them in later turns, as they are often want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1007" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T06:19:52.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2829" CreationDate="2011-03-07T06:46:19.410" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Any card with a Missed! symbol can be&#xA;  used to cancel the effect of a card&#xA;  with a BANG! symbol&quot;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;says the  &quot;Remember&quot; section of the latest version of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gatling has a BANG! symbol, barrel has a Missed! symbol.  They're a match made in heaven, or at least Boot Hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T06:46:19.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2830" CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:14:51.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is still a bit of strategy to be had. If the Sheriff is clearly getting the upper hand, then try shooting him instead of the outlaws for a while. Plus, it can add in a bit more distrust into who is an outlaw, which can cause them to shoot each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the outlaws might want to kill the Renegade, because there will be one less person to be attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, if you know who the Renegade is, in general, you should ignore him until the end of the game, so it doesn't really matter if he's caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="597" LastEditDate="2011-03-07T18:13:20.663" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T18:13:20.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-03-07T15:54:33.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to offer another point of view, I also use the Mayday sleeves for my Dominion cards.  I have no problem fitting the cards in the original box in the correct slots, except for Coppers.  My solution was to just not sleeve all the Coppers, since I have yet to play a game where I came anywhere close to using all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="94" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T15:54:33.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2845" CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:02:59.117" Score="4" ViewCount="2543" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of Pit are oddly contradictory. For n players choose n commonities, add in the Bull and Bear, shuffle and deal out the cards. The rules state that everyone gets 9 cards. Doh! With the Bull and the Bear added in that doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way we reconcile this is two people have 10 cards which gives them a significant advantage, e.g. they can simply hold a single card of a commodity to effectively eliminate whoever ends up going for that commodity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there better solutions to this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T15:41:34.743" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:51:38.703" Title="What do you do about contradictory rules of Pit?" Tags="|variants|pit|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2844" CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:42:06.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in my copy of the game note that two people get 10 cards. Generally these will be the two people left of the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot call pit with the Bear in hand; you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; call Pit with a Bull and 8 copies of a commodity. If you call Pit with a Bull and all 9 copies you get double points for that commodity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note, it is courteous to remind people that they have 10 cards in hand but only need 9 of a commodity. New players often end up holding all 9 of a commodity while desperately looking for a phantom 10th because they are used to seeing their entire hand match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T17:42:06.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2011-03-07T17:46:43.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly, Agricola scores with victory points. You could simply give yourself a handicap. It may not make you feel much better but it would certainly give you a reachable goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T17:46:43.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2844" CreationDate="2011-03-07T19:03:15.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the group where I've often played Pit, we discarded the Bull and Bear cards before shuffling. It makes the game simpler and better, in my humble opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, we can still debate which is the best solution if you do want to keep those cards. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2844/what-do-you-do-about-contradictory-rules-of-pit/2845#2845&quot;&gt;MrHen's solution&lt;/a&gt; may well win that honour. A different option would be to discard two cards at random every time you deal. The advantage is that the playing field is level; however, there are up to two commodities that cannot be completed. But in this version, all players are equally likely to be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see a few variants of this variant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make the discarded cards secret. At the end of every round people are going to be frustrated that their chosen commodity was unwinnable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make the discarded cards public. Now all commodities of the discarded type are effectively Bear cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start a timer for (say) 30 seconds when the round starts. At the end, if no one has won yet, play is interrupted and one of the discarded cards is made public. Players try not to give away that they were close to finalizing a &quot;doomed&quot; commodity. Play continues for another 30 seconds and is interrupted again to make the last card public. Chaos ensues.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T19:03:15.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="909" CreationDate="2011-03-07T21:56:57.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://triplea.sourceforge.net/mywiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;open-source implementation of Axis and Allies&lt;/a&gt; with a couple of AIs, though I also don't think it allows you to set up scenarios. However since it is open source you can always modify it to suit your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T21:56:57.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-03-07T22:25:41.040" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Good for the game&quot; is drastically different if you are playing competitively or casually. Competitive Magic should encourage good deck building and make it as fair as possible to each player. Paris mulligan vs. lenient paris mulligan isn't going to drastically change the fairness between the two players at the table and adds more complexity to an otherwise already complex game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learning when to mulligan is actually a very useful skill in Magic. Making it easier to stomach doesn't necessarily make it a better mechanic. Designing (and testing) decks with 7, 6, 5 card hands is very important. Likewise when playing against particular decks. Some decks struggle against a 1 card advantage. Some decks shrug it off and keep pounding.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Real life Magic mulligan problems can often be solved by shuffling properly. People can get lazy in their shuffles and tournament nerves can make it worse. Take the time to adequately shuffle your deck each time you draw a hand. This is especially true after a mulligan: Simply cut-shuffling a few times will result in you drawing the exact same cards you just threw back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When playing casually, I recommend players just draw back up to 7 after a mulligan. I would rather play against a deck's best chance than roll over someone with a 5 card start. Casual games should be fun more than fair; if the lenient paris mulligan is more fun for your play group then that is how you should play.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-07T22:25:41.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2868" CreationDate="2011-03-08T02:54:51.243" Score="8" ViewCount="1361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading reviews on various cooperative games trying to find some more to add to my collection. (I currently have &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/em&gt;). In reviews, I've seen people give games low ratings for a few reasons, complexity, playing time, and various other very predictable things that you can easily use to judge if you want to buy a game or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue that tends to come up is replayability. This is really important to me, because if its not replayable there's no way I'm getting it. But how can I really judge this? It can't be easily reduced to an objective number. Are there any tips for telling how replayable a game is before buying, particularly cooperatives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Recently I've taken my cooperatives and added a ton of new stuff to them to make them more interesting. I added 9 new roles to pandemic and 13 new special events, some taken from other places I'd read. I did something similar with&lt;/em&gt; Forbidden Island &lt;em&gt;and might add some new knights to&lt;/em&gt; Shadows over Camelot. &lt;em&gt;I'm confident I can overcome any lack of replayability with my own creativity, but I thought I'd ask this anyway to tell if I'm going to NEED to add my own extensions to a game in order to keep it interesting past 10 plays.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T14:44:09.350" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T14:44:09.350" Title="How can I tell how replayable a cooperative game is?" Tags="|cooperation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-08T04:01:05.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a better thing to do with new players is to just reject complicated cards.  Play more with Smithy or Laboratory type cards where the text on the card is short and simple.  Play less with things like Potions, Possession, durations, or Intrigue like choices on the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T04:01:05.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2867" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:39:29.720" Score="10" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play games almost exclusively with my wife and older children. They learn and enjoy playing games like Puerto Rico, Diplomacy, 7 Wonders and Dominion so I am looking for gamer games, not Apples to Apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However they don't play most of these games very competitively. Rather, they will often change plans just to be nice to another player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that some highly recommended gamer games, like Power Grid, really lose a lot if the group isn't playing in highly competetive mode. What are great gamer games that stay great even if the group playing is pretty generous toward each other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Obviously all great cooperative games would qualify so I am asking about non-cooperative games.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Certainly having extra players is sometimes a factor (we have 8 children, though only our oldest 3 can play these games with us at this point - of course, that will change in time). However simplified rules is really a non-issue from what we've played so far (Puerto-Rico being the most complex so far). Also we have no qualms about editing a game for family (or for ourselves). e.g. some of the cards in 7 wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit.&lt;/strong&gt; I made part of the question bold just because people kept missing that part and I've noticed those that do are getting downvoted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="800" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T16:07:28.333" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T10:23:21.460" Title="What are great gamer games that are still great for uncompetitive groups." Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:10:54.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2853" CreationDate="2011-03-08T07:45:17.477" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the question is not as much how replayable a cooperative game is but more if you are the type for cooperative games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of any new game's allure comes from being unknown - from exploring strategies and content. The biggest downside of a cooperative is that unlike humans it cannot adapt to your strategy. Once you figured out how to beat it then it is largely a matter of how favorable / unfavorable the cards are stacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the questions is: Can you enjoy such a game once the novelty has worn off. Take one of the most common examples: Solitaire. After enough plays everyone know what to look for, which card to pick if you've got two options, etc. If you are fine with playing a puzzle that you know inside and outside and poses little challenge beyond randomized cards then you should be able to enjoy coops for a long time. Otherwise you'll probably have to spice it up every now and then...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any proof or evidence for this theory, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T07:45:17.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-08T08:21:53.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agricola_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt; is a great game, that remains good even if you're being nice to each other.  The main interaction between players is that each action space may only be taken once per round, and so players are able to develop their farms largely independently of each other.  To be nasty towards another player requires studying their position, and deliberately taking the action that they needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game comes with rules for a family version, which is much easier to pick up than the full game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T08:21:53.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2707" CreationDate="2011-03-08T16:21:02.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shelly Christopher at Fundex sent me rules which are a copy of the rules found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aboardgamesdatabase.com/rules/pegsnjokers/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T16:21:02.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2863" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:12:54.127" Score="12" ViewCount="2438" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/sok/en/53.html&quot;&gt;Sakashima the Imposter&lt;/a&gt;, copying &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rav/en/54.html&quot;&gt;Halcyon Glaze&lt;/a&gt;, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that Sakashima becomes a 4/4 Enchantment Creature - Illusion until the end of the turn (that's the current state of Halcyon Glaze) with Halcyon Glaze's text (&quot;Whenever you play a creature spell...&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Sakashima would revert to a 3/1 with Halcyon Glaze's text at the end of the turn. This means that on future turns, if I cast a creature spell, Sakashima would again become a 4/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something about that doesn't seem quite right, however. What actually happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-11T05:24:02.580" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T11:02:09.363" Title="In MTG, what happens when Sakashima the Imposter copies Halcyon Glaze?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2878" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:17:43.870" Score="3" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was lucky enough to play my first Martin Wallace game last night - a 5 player game of Steam.  Unfortunately I was tired and couldn't really grasp the intricacies of the game from a quick runthrough of the rules; I decided to not worry about it, play at random and get a feel for the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course I got trounced: I was way too slow to develop my locomotive, failed to utilise towns to maximise my number of route links, and missed the fact that goods cannot move through a city of their colour on their way to another one.  At least I was only a few points behind the players in 3rd and 4th places (though a long way behind the leaders of the pack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really liked the look of Steam (which felt like a kind of cross between Power Grid and Caylus) though, and would happily play it again.  To save me from future embarrassment though, what are some simple strategies I could adopt to give me a fighting chance of a good finish next time?  I've probably suggested some to myself in the list of mistakes I think I made in my first game, but I'm sure people who really know the game can give me some better pointers.  Any takers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T22:48:32.923" Title="Good Introductory Strategies for Steam" Tags="|steam|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2861" CreationDate="2011-03-08T18:30:00.377" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A relevant paragraph from the MtG Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.2. When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of&#xA;  the original object's characteristics&#xA;  and, for an object on the stack,&#xA;  choices made when casting or&#xA;  activating it (mode, targets, the&#xA;  value of X, whether it was kicked, how&#xA;  it will affect multiple targets, and&#xA;  so on). The &quot;copiable values&quot; are the&#xA;  values derived from the text printed&#xA;  on the object (that text being name,&#xA;  mana cost, card type, subtype,&#xA;  supertype, expansion symbol, rules&#xA;  text, power, toughness, and/or&#xA;  loyalty), as modified by other copy&#xA;  effects, by &quot;as . . . enters the&#xA;  battlefield&quot; and &quot;as . . . is turned&#xA;  face up&quot; abilities that set&#xA;  characteristics, and by abilities that&#xA;  caused the object to be face down.&#xA;  Other effects (including type-changing&#xA;  and text-changing effects), status,&#xA;  and counters are not copied. &lt;strong&gt;Example:&#xA;  Chimeric Staff is an artifact that&#xA;  reads &quot;{X}: Chimeric Staff becomes an&#xA;  X/X artifact creature until end of&#xA;  turn.&quot; Clone is a creature that reads,&#xA;  &quot;You may have Clone enter the&#xA;  battlefield as a copy of any creature&#xA;  on the battlefield.&quot; After a Staff has&#xA;  become a 5/5 artifact creature, a&#xA;  Clone enters the battlefield as a copy&#xA;  of it. The Clone is an artifact, not a&#xA;  5/5 artifact creature. (The copy has&#xA;  the Staff's ability, however, and will&#xA;  become a creature if that ability is&#xA;  activated.)&lt;/strong&gt; Example: Clone enters the&#xA;  battlefield as a copy of a face-down&#xA;  Grinning Demon (a creature with morph&#xA;  {2}{B}{B}). The Clone is a colorless&#xA;  2/2 creature with no name, no types,&#xA;  no abilities, and no mana cost. It&#xA;  will still be face up. Its controller&#xA;  can't pay {2}{B}{B} to turn it face&#xA;  up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that what this implies is that Sakashima does NOT become a 4/4 creature when copying a creatured-up Halcyon Glaze, but rather an enchantment with Halcyon Glaze's rules text.  So you'd have to cast another creature to turn enchantment-Sakashima into a 4/4 flyer.  I don't think he'd revert to being a 3/1 at end of turn; he'd stay a noncreature enchantment until returned to hand with Sakashima's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially the key issue here is about what the Magic rules like to call &quot;copiable values&quot;. The switched-on Glaze is a valid thing for Sakashima to copy, because it's a creature in play, but its switched-on status is not a copiable value. So Sakashima just becomes a switched-off Glaze, with all the extra characteristics as defined in the Sakashima rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-03-08T19:15:14.293" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T19:15:14.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2011-03-08T21:13:47.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Steam specifically, but I have played Railroad Tycoon - a similar game.  From what I can tell, you're on the right track.  The trick to this game is finding the right balance of train upgrades, number of routes, and location of routes to maximize your score.  Short routes will score points quicker but your total won't be as high.  Long routes score more points but require a larger train.  In my experience, you'll do poorly if you try to optimize one thing (e.g., your train) at the expense of everything else.  As with other games in this style, the key is flexibility.  You need to take what the game gives you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if Steam has the same end-of-game mechanic, but in Railroad Tycoon there is skill involved in prolonging the game so you can catch up (or ending it early!).  Once a fixed number of towns are empty, the game ends.  You need to keep an eye on the scoring track once people start delivering lots of goods and emptying towns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-03-08T21:13:47.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2011-03-08T23:33:09.900" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Building Track&lt;/strong&gt;.  The smaller buildings are good for increasing your gain in future turns, but the real goal for this strategy is the large buildings at the end that score massive points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Money Track&lt;/strong&gt; has usually ended up as my secondary because of the need for money, and I hate playing my pieces just to get money.  If you have a game where you're doing fine financially then you can ignore this track, and it would be best to be in this position, but not always easy to achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;VP track&lt;/strong&gt; doesn't seem very good in the early stages of the game, since it doesn't produce any gain in future turns, so it doesn't help your game economy.  There is a strategy to hammer the big VP points at the end, but you'll have to commit to it early on to be able to get through the small stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Resource Track&lt;/strong&gt; I've found mainly useful for the gold, that you need to buy the big buildings at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to gauge your position, and it's weaknesses and strengths (relative to others) after you're into the game a few turns and choose a strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Building Strategy:&lt;/strong&gt;  1. Building 2. Resource if you don't need money, otherwise money.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;VP Strategy:&lt;/strong&gt; 1. VP 2. varies based on position&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-04-07T15:31:16.560" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T15:31:16.560" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-09T03:17:40.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One attribute I think you should look for is non-elimination games, that is, games where all the players stay in until the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkam-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'arkam-horror'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkam-horror&lt;/a&gt; is a great gamers game and also co-operative. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/axis-and-allies&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'axis-and-allies'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;axis-and-allies&lt;/a&gt; is team-based and although it's possible to eliminate one player in practice the game can be more fun if each side plays as a team&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/settlers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'settlers-of-catan'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;settlers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt; is another popular game where everyone's in it until the end&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T03:17:40.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:02:22.713" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd assert that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; works just fine, even if you're not being very competitive.  There's lots of trading, which can actually work better if both traders are genuinely interested in &quot;playing nice.&quot;  Similarly, there's nothing in the building of cities and roads that &lt;em&gt;mandates&lt;/em&gt; competition.  The nature of the board does encourage confrontation, in that you're likely to eventually conflict for space to expand, but that's not necessarily a deal-breaker in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T04:02:22.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2853" CreationDate="2011-03-09T04:15:17.400" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's tricky to evaluate a game's replayability before buying it, as the primary question I ask to assess this is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Does the game support multiple viable paths to victory?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is this: If a game has one optimal path to victory, repeated plays will likely become boring (since you're just doing the same thing over and over again).  To figure this out, I typically need to play a game at least once, carefully assessing the opportunities and tools that the game presents during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I couldn't play the game, I'd try to read the rules and look over any primary game components (like card decks, character roles, etc.).  I'd also check out reviews, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second question I ask is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Does this game use one or more modular/randomizing components as a core component?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you lay out tiles to form a different board each game?  Is the game driven by one or more decks of cards with critical goals or events shuffled in at semi-random spots?  Is there a character creation system, or are the characters the same from game to game? -- All of these things contribute to replayability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, it's nice to play the game to see all the components interact with each other.  However, this is a bit easier to assess from just looking at the box or reading the list of parts.  It's also easy to assess from reading the &quot;set up&quot; portion of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="612" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T04:15:17.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-09T08:23:14.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bohnanza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our experience Bohnanza lends itself very well to being nice to each other. The fact that you are often better off with a &quot;bad&quot; deal than none at all opens the doors for a lot of &quot;You owe me one&quot; deals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real competition in the game does not generally come from fighting over resources but from better evaluation of what kind of beans are gonna come up (or are not going to come up) plentiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T08:23:14.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-09T09:20:17.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Munchkin_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Munchkin&quot;&gt;Munchkin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Munchkin is well-loved by my more hardcore board gaming friends, but it is a very silly game that is best played non-competitively. It's often more fun to play with a goal of doing things in the most ridiculous manner (I'm going to use my Tuba of Charm to destroy that monster in spite of the Chicken On My Head!) than to try to actually win. Players can go it solo, but there is a lot of potential for collaboration - the most memorable Munchkin games that I've participated in have been won by two or more people working together at the last minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fair warning: this game is PG-13. Some of the more lewd jokes will go right over the heads of any little ones (&quot;Crabs: If this monster catches you, you will lose all your armor and any items worn beneath the waist&quot;), but others will teach them some new language (&quot;Sneaky Bastard Sword&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Killer_Bunnies_and_the_Quest_for_the_Magic_Carrot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Killer Bunnies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appealing for somewhat similar reasons to Munchkin, but it's G-rated and less likely to remind one of dungeons and dragons. The end-game is somewhat random, so playing competitively can leave you disappointed (the person who was worst off throughout the whole game still stands a chance of winning). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1026" LastEditorUserId="1026" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T09:47:29.173" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T09:47:29.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-09T15:02:29.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My usual recommendations for cooperative boardgames are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/823/lord-of-the-rings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lord of the Rings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pandemic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The first link is from board game geek- you can search for the other games there also as I couldn't post more than two links)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, any of the games in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2023/co-operative-play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cooperative category of BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; should work for you.  Sort by ranking, and there are some good ones in the top 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1029" LastActivityDate="2011-03-09T15:02:29.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2011-03-09T18:44:55.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Keep your map crowded with plenty of players.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The likelihood of a player being eliminated from competition (&quot;doomed to compete between last or second to last place&quot;) depends on the combination of which map you're using (USA, Switzerland expansion, Europe, etc.) and how many players you're playing. If you have a lot of players for the map you're using (e.g., 4–5 players on the USA map), then it's likely that &lt;strong&gt;everyone&lt;/strong&gt; is going to have major losses from routes they can't feasibly complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you have few players on the map you're using (e.g., 2 players on the USA map), it might be better to switch to a map intended for fewer players (e.g., use the Switzerland map instead for 2 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Keep destination tickets and their completion status secret.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the benefit of keeping destination tickets (and their completion status) secret is that you can't be sure you're &quot;out of the game&quot; because you don't know how many incomplete tickets others have. If you're having destination tickets public to aid in teaching the game, resist the temptation to do it for a whole game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this doesn't help &lt;strong&gt;as much&lt;/strong&gt; when your map isn't very crowded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Note that the rules state, &quot;Destination Tickets are kept secret from other players until the Game’s final scoring.&quot; It's there because it truly affects gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T18:43:00.813" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T18:43:00.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-09T19:35:24.500" Score="2" ViewCount="2442" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Battlestar Galactica, revealed Cylon players can use the &lt;strong&gt;Resurrection Ship&lt;/strong&gt; location to pass their unrevealed loyalty cards to another player at the table.  This can be necessary when one player has drawn multiple &quot;You Are A Cylon&quot; cards or can be used to sow confusion by giving &quot;You Are Not A Cylon&quot; cards away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Pegasus expansion, the Resurrection Ship location no longer passes loyalty cards.  Instead, when a Cylon player reveals himself, he always passes his unrevealed cards to another player as part of the reveal process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear which situation happened during Pegasus development:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The passing was made part of the reveal process in order to address an imbalance, and the Resurrection Ship location was changed in response to this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Resurrection Ship location was changed for other reasons, and the passing was moved to the reveal process in response to this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just played a game where I happened to be dealt both &quot;You Are A Cylon&quot; cards, I'm starting to think that the base game should use the Pegasus card-passing rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of revealing is purposely built so that the Cylon player doesn't get to do any &quot;Cylon actions&quot; until the round after he reveals - for one thing, this prevents a player from revealing and immediately playing his Super Crisis card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Cylon dealt both Cylon cards, however, ends up having to wait 2 full rounds to get all the stuff he needs to do done:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He needs to pass the other Cylon card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He needs to play his Super Crisis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, he won't always NEED to play the Super Crisis, but in most cases that will probably be true, particularly since there has been only one Cylon player sabotaging things to this point.  Whichever order the Cylon chooses, it's not great for him.  If he passes loyalty cards first, it probably looks pretty suspicious that he didn't play the Super Crisis, but prioritized card-passing more.  The humans are likely to assume the card recipient is now also a Cylon.  On the other hand, if he plays the Super Crisis first, there is one more human available to help against it for a round until the card is finally passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This two-turn latency to get all his ducks in a row seems like a harsh penalty, especially on top of the minor penalty that he's been the sole Cylon to this point.  Automatically passing as part of the reveal gets things back to the more &quot;normal&quot; setup - 2 Cylons, and a 1 turn delay before Super Crisis can be played.  It also makes the passing of the loyalty cards something that is not inherently suspicious, since it always happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this had come about in Pegasus through just a rule change listed in the instructions, it would be a no-brainer to apply it to the core game.  But since it involves changes to the board that are affected by other Pegasus-specific stuff, it's not clear how applicable this should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I haven't played Pegasus, it made me wonder: is there a reason why it would be bad to apply this rule change to the core game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-03-09T19:59:20.957" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:06:40.537" Title="Should the core Battlestar Galactica game adopt the revised Cylon Resurrection Ship?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2875" CreationDate="2011-03-09T23:51:44.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, Pegasus allows a Cylon to pass his unrevealed loyalty cards only if they are at distance 6 or less, if they're at 7+ then he's stuck with the cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, there's no reason why you couldn't use the Pegasus version of the Ship, as long you are using the correct and full version of the Ship. Wherein you only draw one skill card and as an action you may draw a super crisis card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I will point out that this logic that Cylons NEED to play their super crisis card, and spending a turn to pass the loyalty card would only be done if it was the other &quot;You are a Cylon&quot; card is just wrong. Super Crises are situational, no point in playing fleet mobilization if there's nothing on the board. And sowing suspicions is what you want the human players to deal with, otherwise they'll be able to freely XO and get stuff done.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T05:41:15.503" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T05:41:15.503" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-10T00:22:34.477" Score="23" ViewCount="3976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to do some statistical analysis on Catan games, but to do that I need data. Does anyone know of a place I can find empirical data on Catan play? The stronger the players, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awesome datasets include:&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Records of tournament play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Log files from electronic Catan games, with preference for strong human play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Analyses I'd like to do include:&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt; Empirical win percentages as a function of seat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Total resources-spent by the winning player, by type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Final assets of winning player, including all settlements, cities, roads, and development cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt; Total quantity of trading by the winning player &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, I'd be happy if I could perform even one of those analyses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can code, and I was a quant at an energy trading firm, so I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T21:51:14.167" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T16:27:30.310" Title="Settlers of Catan Data" Tags="|catan|statistics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2011-03-10T02:08:06.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to be planning a way to build up to routes of various lengths, up to 5 or 6 long, from the very beginning of the game.  Look at the resources on the board and route them mentally to places that are far away, then fill in where you need to place tracks.  Realize that resources near other cities of the same color are probably going to go away before you complete the longer routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might eventually need Urbanization to help you build the routes you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of new players will &quot;land grab&quot; the routes that give immediate gratification but then realize they don't really have a good growth strategy thereafter.  Don't worry if your start is slightly slower than such players, although you definitely need to get some goods delivered early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T02:08:06.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2784" CreationDate="2011-03-10T14:12:29.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After several trial games, I've found it does make the game slightly easier (Mr. Tibrewala's answer has a good explanation). However, I also find it makes the game a LOT more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have more choices each turn. Since you pick one thing and then another, you have more analysis to do. Do I draw a black card and see what it is before deciding what to do for my other action? Do I move here and play a card, or draw cards and fight a catapult? Possible things you could do on your turn increase rapidly, making decisions more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It feels like you actually DO something on your turn. One problem I've heard other players talk about in SOC is how it can drag a little. You really can't do much in one action. Admittedly you are planning to do something else your next turn, but for me moving to a quest doesn't feel like I'm really helping much. If can move there and play a card without even having to burn a life, I feel like I'm actually useful. It also reduces the number of neutral turns that are totally. I drew a despair and played a grail....Wow that was useless... For me it turned the game from &quot;my turn, let's have some really tiny decision that doesn't do much or require any thinking&quot; to &quot;YEAH! MY TURN! I can kick butt now!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It makes the game quicker without really subtracting anything. Since the turn's are more interesting, it feels quicker, and you can usually shave 15 minutes off the game while playing this way without sacrificing anything (IMHO you're actually making the game cooler AND shorter).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's really easy to tweak the difficulty to counteract the effect, I always play this way now. Everything just becomes more interesting, and if you add the Squire's Challenge from the base or the Travel Deck from Merlin's Company you'll have about even difficulty anyway. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would love to hear any other opinion's or comments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T15:29:35.343" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T15:29:35.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2877" CreationDate="2011-03-10T15:35:20.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few problems with finding data. The first is finding &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; data. I would recommending emailing/contacting sites that offer Catan or Catan-esque games for play to see if they keep records of games played. I found a short list of &lt;a href=&quot;http://myleague.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=main&amp;amp;action=display&amp;amp;thread=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;potential sites&lt;/a&gt; with a little searching via Google. (Do note that I have not verified any of those sites.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is that even &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you find the data it isn't likely to be what you need. Catan has a lot of information being passed around. The more details you can give someone about the data you need the more likely they will be able to find it for you. These details include what information you need (board layouts, resources gained/traded, positions of the robber) and the format you want the data (text logs of a server, CSV, XML.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible someone else has already done the analysis. What problem are you specifically trying to solve/analyze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T15:35:20.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2877" CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:21:33.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of friends who used to play a lot of settlers online.  Apparently there was once a site that had a lot of settlers data, but it went down.  You can see some of the archived data at &lt;a href=&quot;http://replay.waybackmachine.org/20040328011046/http://www.s3dconnector.net/connector/s3dSummary.php&quot;&gt;the settlers 3d web.archive.org page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is now a forum in its place.  Maybe some of the posters there have a backup of the data?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T19:21:33.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2011-03-10T19:24:28.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I'm answering my own question, at least in part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I think the internets were greatly deceived when they spread the idea that each of the five scenarios (there are indeed 5) had only three variants. Some of the scenarios had what looked by my calculations to be upwards of &lt;strong&gt;40&lt;/strong&gt; permutations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the Keeper's role is much more dynamic than I had previously realized. It strikes me that the Keeper's game is similar to the Demons' game in &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/claustrophobia&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'claustrophobia'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt;, a truly wonderful asymmetrical 2-player game. Like the Demons, the Keeper accrues Threat over time, which he must pay for all his actions. It seems to me that the vagaries of Keeper play will keep even an identical scenario from playing out the same way twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I think that the answer to my hackability question is a resounding &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. The thing that has me so excited about MoM is that it provides narrative out-of-the-box. The game does a lot more storytelling than most. That very quality seems to make it hard to vary beyond the included scenarios. Each card is tied tightly to a choice or combination of choices and the stories will fall apart if not constructed properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my opinion as of having read all the books, but having played zero games. I will update this answer if that opinion changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T19:24:28.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2883" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:46:28.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic: The Gathering is a collectible card game patented by Richard Garfield in 1993 and developed by Wizards of the Coast (Hasbro). It is most often played between two players in a head-to-head duel. Many variants exist, including the popular multiplayer formats &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/two-headed-giant&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;two-headed-giant&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;two-headed-giant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/commander&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;commander&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;commander&lt;/a&gt; (a.k.a. Elder Dragon Highlander).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Typical Question Types&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions at all skill levels are welcome here, from beginner to expert.  As with all Stack Exchange sites, you should ask practical, answerable questions and demonstrate some level of effort before asking.  For up-to-date information, please see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/faq&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often the most interesting questions will involve the interaction between new cards and existing rules.  As there are hundreds of new cards released each year, with a historical library of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic:_The_Gathering_statistics_and_trivia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;over 13,000 cards&lt;/a&gt;, the realm of possibilities grows steadily.  The best questions will strive to be general enough that future readers will be able to apply the answer to new cards by understanding the strategy while being specific enough to be useful to the original poster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Finding the Official Game Rules&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic: The Gathering rules, both basic and comprehensive, are maintained &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/rules?source=MX_Nav2020&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on the official Wizards of the Coast&lt;/a&gt; site.  The basic rules cover most things necessary to begin playing.  The comprehensive rules cover all mechanics of the game in depth. Tournament rules have been developed for more serious competitions.  Comprehensive rules are usually referred to by section number, and will often be quoted as in the following example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3j In a Commander game, a player that‘s been dealt 21 or more combat damage by the same commander over the course of the game loses the game. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704. Also, see rule 903.14.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that you would indeed lose the game, per 104.3j.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either format is acceptable, however, you are encouraged to keep rule quotes as concise as possible. The rule text may be updated over time by Wizards of the Coast, but the section number is less likely to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Linking to Card Images and Text&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the syntax &lt;code&gt;[mtg:Cardname]&lt;/code&gt; where Cardname is the official English name of the card. This syntax uses the public API released by WoTC to generate a link to the card on the official card database at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gatherer.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;. Example: &lt;code&gt;[mtg:The Cheese Stands Alone]&lt;/code&gt; becomes &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Cheese%20Stands%20Alone&quot;&gt;The Cheese Stands Alone&lt;/a&gt;. This feature has &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/1152/6692&quot;&gt;bugs&lt;/a&gt;, some of which have workarounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventionally we link the first mention of a card. Questions should link to the cards they mention if they're important — they usually are. Each answer should link to the cards it brings up itself, linking to cards already mentioned in the question is optional. Go ahead and refer to cards in shorthand after that (like &amp;quot;Emrakul&amp;quot; instead of his full name, &amp;quot;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&amp;quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Questions to Avoid&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions that lend themselves to &amp;quot;What is a good combo with _____?&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;How can I improve my deck?&amp;quot; tend to be either too short-lived (due to new sets being released) or too localized (unlikely to help anyone other than the asker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often these questions can still be asked but should be worded in a more general manner so that they stay relevant to future readers.  For example, this example of a traditional &amp;quot;bad question&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I improve my red deck?`&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can be reworked to be much more specific as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a red aggressive style deck which has been losing to blue control style decks regularly.  What strategy is used to counter control decks, and how can I incorporate that into my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since aggressive and control-style decks are staples of the game they will likely continue to exist for quite a while.  Discussing a strategy to undermine a particular style is relevant to future readers, and individual cards or combinations discussed can serve as examples for anyone attempting to solve the same type of problem.  Often &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; a card is good to include is more important than &lt;strong&gt;what&lt;/strong&gt; card should be included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Deck Construction Questions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within some guidelines, deck construction questions are welcome here.  When asking your question please take a moment to evaluate how the question can be made interesting to a future reader.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/585/1583&quot;&gt;This discussion on the meta site&lt;/a&gt; attempts to give some framework to these somewhat open-ended questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to be specific about a theme you are attempting to achieve (e.g. a wolf-swarm deck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;groupings that can make the deck work (e.g. creature bonuses, mana ramping, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows people answering to avoid the 1 card per answer style answer, and suggest a group of cards that are strategically related towards the final deck &amp;quot;solution&amp;quot;.  Future readers may then pick and choose the particular elements they find most helpful and disregard the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In Closing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other questions to avoid follow the guidelines &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/faq&quot;&gt;in the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.  Open-ended discussions (&amp;quot;How do the storylines of the MTG novels intertwine with the flavor text of the cards&amp;quot;), rampantly speculative questions (&amp;quot;What is upcoming in future set releases?&amp;quot;), or unanswerably subjective topics (&amp;quot;Which color is best?&amp;quot;) are examples of questions that are likely to be closed as off-topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="1536" LastEditDate="2021-09-09T03:01:17.823" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T03:01:17.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2884" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:46:28.790" Score="0" Body="Magic: The Gathering is a collectible card game for 2 or more players, set in a variety of fantastical realms. Players take on the role of a powerful wizard and duel in a battle of wits, using cards that represent resources such as creatures, objects, spells and enchantments. " OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorDisplayName="user30707" LastEditDate="2020-03-01T22:19:34.630" LastActivityDate="2020-03-01T22:19:34.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2885" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:55:41.033" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T21:55:41.033" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T21:55:41.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2886" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-10T21:55:41.033" Score="0" Body="Poker is a family of card-games involving one or more rounds of betting over who holds the best ranked hand of cards. Hand ranks are shared across most variations of Poker and generally determine whether a particular card game is identified as a Poker variant." OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-10T22:25:24.913" LastActivityDate="2011-03-10T22:25:24.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2011-03-10T22:55:33.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the addition of artillery makes tanks completely moot -- you're always better off buying infantry and a single artillery to go along with any attack.  The tanks just do 50% more damage than infantry on both attack and defense, for a 67% higher cost, and no increase in their ability to absorb damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer Adam's comment, an artillery plus two infantry costs the same as two tanks, and will inflict the exact same 0.1 losses per IPC both defending and attacking.  An artillery plus 7 infantry costs the same as 5 tanks, and inflicts .1067 losses per IPC.  That may not seem like much compared to the tanks, but combined with the fact you need large amounts of infantry to absorb losses anyways, its much more efficient and becomes more efficient as your army becomes larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real advantage of tanks is the two-space move, which is IMO rarely significant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastEditorUserId="1019" LastEditDate="2011-03-14T18:27:06.713" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T18:27:06.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2888" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-10T23:38:27.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess is a two-player strategic board game that dates back over 1500 years. It's survived in its modern form for around 500 years, and chess tournaments have been held regularly around the world since the 1850's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is typically played between two players on an 8x8 board with alternating colors, black and white. Each player has 16 pieces: 8 Pawns, 2 Rooks, 2 Knights, 2 Bishops, 1 Queen, and 1 King. Players alternate moves, with the player using White pieces moving first, and the player with Black pieces moving second. The goal of the game is to capture your opponent's King. An immediate threat to the King is called a &lt;em&gt;check&lt;/em&gt;; the game is won when one player's King is in check and no move by that player can prevent capture of the King on the next turn; this situation is called checkmate. A number of situations can produce draws, such as the lack of pieces on the board to give checkmate by either side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games may also be played under a time constraint, where each player has a certain amount of time to make their moves, and running out of time constitutes a loss. Some systems give a fixed amount of time for the entire game for each player; others allow more time as more moves are made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To learn more about chess, visit these sites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chess.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FIDE.com (the World Chess Federation site)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uschess.org/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the USCF site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tag Usage&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This tag is for questions about the standard two-player game on an 8x8 board: historical games, strategy, openings, and endgame, among other topics. Questions about related games, like Xiangqi (Chinese chess) and Shogi (Japanese chess), should not be tagged as chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diagrams&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Questions about a specific board position are much easier to answer with a diagram. To create a diagram, visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessvideos.tv/chess-diagram-generator.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; (or a similar one), set up the position you're asking about, and add the resulting image to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chess Stack Exchange Site&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Detailed questions of fine points of chess strategy and tactics will likely be better answered on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://chess.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;chess.stackexchange.com&lt;/a&gt;, which has a much larger community of chess enthusiasts. Nevertheless, chess questions are also on-topic here, and many beginner/recreational questions will be answered well here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="749" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T21:37:29.360" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T21:37:29.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2889" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-10T23:38:27.083" Score="0" Body="Chess is one of the most popular two-player strategy games. It has survived centuries of strategical analysis and continues to thrive amongst players of all skills and ages." OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T02:22:57.773" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T02:22:57.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2011-03-11T15:11:32.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should still be purchasing mostly infantry to absorb the hits of your opponents.  The difference is now, your additional purchases depend on your strategic posture.  If you're satisfied &quot;slugging it out&quot; on this line with no intention of offense, you should purchase mostly infantry, and maybe a few tanks that will never be threatened by enemy fire.  If, however, you'd like to maintain an offensive capability, you would purchase mostly infantry, and then many artillery in order to enable your infantry to be a credible threat on offense.  A few tanks would still be called for, but again, only after enough infantry was available to reliably ensure that the tanks are safe.  Essentially, think of tanks in Revised as &quot;Light Fighters&quot;;  they provide some useful hard-hitting power, but you don't really want to risk losing them.  Artillery is only really useful when you're transitioning (or want to be able to transition) to an offensive role with your infantry;  on defense, pure infantry spam is still better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T15:11:32.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2891" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-11T15:44:00.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second installment in the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; series, Intrigue series adds multi-type cards (like &quot;Action - Victory&quot;) and more complex actions and attacks. It also includes the common cards from the base set like Copper and Provinces, so that it can be purchased and played as a stand-alone game. Its theme is choice; several cards require players to choose between options. Intrigue provides 25 new kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Intrigue rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_306_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:54:22.410" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:54:22.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2892" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-11T15:44:00.670" Score="0" Body="The 2nd Dominion expansion, built around the theme of making choices." OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T06:15:14.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T06:15:14.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:08:43.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With this change, armor is severely weakened - the purchase cost is simply too high for something only slightly better than infantry.  The only exception is if your factories are too far from your front or you are facing light defenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In those cases, such as a large number of undefended territories near one of your factories, tanks additional movement can come in handy.  It offsets their purchase cost significantly if your tanks seize two territories the turn after construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tanks are also marginally better if you are launching an amphibious attack, as you can get slightly more punch per transport (assuming 1 infantry + 1 tank per transport, which is what I believe they can carry in the current version) with a similarly more powerful defense for your beachhead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem disappears (somewhat) if you adjust the tank purchase cost to 4 OR up their movement to 3.  I'd go with the purchase cost reduction, personally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="809" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T16:08:43.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2894" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:11:51.743" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-11T16:11:51.743" LastActivityDate="2011-03-11T16:11:51.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2895" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-11T16:11:51.743" Score="0" Body="Tactics is the art of responding to specific situations as they appear and choosing the best course of action. Please also use game-specific tag, e.g. [catan]." OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-01-30T10:53:10.107" LastActivityDate="2021-01-30T10:53:10.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-12T09:22:49.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for games that work well when you don't feel like being competitive, what about games that are by nature cooperative? &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/359989/space-alert-review-on-the-crews-similarity-to-ma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Alert&lt;/a&gt; is absolutely fantastic in this arena, and it's a great combination of analytical, communicative, and pressure-handling skills: you need to work together with the other players to craft solutions to often-difficult problems &lt;em&gt;quickly&lt;/em&gt;. Get one of those three wrong and you all die, which honestly is half the fun anyway. The instructions are a blast to read even if you don't plan to play the game (I didn't, until I was done with the rules!), and there are several ways to adjust the difficulty to a level you're happy with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting in this sort of genre are &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill&lt;/em&gt;. Both of these are good, cooperative games (though the latter generally becomes less cooperative when one of your number is randomly selected to betray the others). Personally I put Space Alert on top of the heap by a mile, but as a matter of taste you might find you prefer the others if you are really into deep analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB &lt;em&gt;Betrayal&lt;/em&gt; was reprinted recently, and the new edition is a lot shabbier: bits tend to warp and generally aren't as nice. But I understand it's a lot cheaper, and it's still perfectly playable, so make your own decision here about whether you look for an old edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Apparently I completely overlooked the &quot;only looking for competitive games&quot; part of your question. I'll leave this here anyway, in case you aren't already aware of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1046" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T09:22:49.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-12T11:01:23.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion works pretty well... just don't use any of the attack cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FGU's Star Explorer (I have reason to believe it's soon to be reprinted by a new company) also works extremely well; it's multi-player limited interaction, race to complete missions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride (any flavor) works pretty well as long as everyone's the same level of competitiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne also tends to do well with friendly games, at least in most flavors; Carcassonne: The City tends to be a bit more competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T11:01:23.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2833" CreationDate="2011-03-12T11:05:30.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also used the Mayday sleeves. I've conslidated Dominion and Intrigue into one box by removing the inserts, and putting each type of card into a snak-sized ziplock. I might be able to get one more box integrated in.... but will be tight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was unable to get all of it in the tray, however, due to the coppers and curses no longer fitting their slots. Which is why I went to baggies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-12T11:05:30.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2853" CreationDate="2011-03-12T20:00:24.897" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find several key elements in replayability in any game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple routes to victory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple starting conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable in-game activities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable in-game events&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable action results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imperfect information&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optional Rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Multiple Routes To Victory&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple routes to victory is a key element in all games, not just cooperatives, and it can be assessed by reading the rulebooks for the victory conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Multiple Starting Conditions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple starting conditions means you don't always start the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Parchisi and Chess are classic examples of one start condition, as is Axis and Allies.&#xA;Risk, Shadows Over Camelot and Civilization are three different modes of variable starting conditions. In Risk, you have random allocation of starting countries. In Civilization, each picks their starting country, and then their starting space. In Shadows, you have a random assortment of starting white cards and one of 7 (or 8 or 16) characters with differential powers. In Flash Point, you have the option of fixed start for Family difficulty, or random start with any difficulty.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more non-random variability in starting condition, the more likely people are to find one optimal, and the more control they feel, but likewise, that also reduces replayability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more random variability in starting condition, the more replayability, but also the more likely one is to be hampered by the random factors and be &amp;quot;losing from the start.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this can usually be assessed by the combination of the component list and the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Flash Point, it's possible to lose the game in the first round from bad luck; if you lose 4 or more of the victims on the map during the first two players' turns, it's game over before player 3 gets to play. I've nearly had this happen - in a 3 player game, we lost two victims on the first player's turn; they straddled a starting fire marker, and that marker was hit. Roughly a 1 in 100,000 chance, but it was in my 4th play. That this could happen was evident in the rulebook.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In Game Activities&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more different things that can be done, the more potential replayability... If you have but two options per turn, that tends to reduce replayability somewhat over a game with 4-5. (Too many eventually results in unplayability, tho'.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So, for example, in Shadows, one is either playing cards on a quest, playing cards on a siege engine, playing cards on a character, or moving between quests. Essentially, 4 options. Which, generally, hits my sweet spot for a board game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Wizards (Avalon Hill), each turn is spend AP on movement and/or casting... but the movement options are many, and the spell options quite a few.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Flash Point, one is fighting fire or rescuing victims, with movement being required to do both. Only rescuing victims counts towards victory, but preventing collapse makes fighting fire a necessity. But there are several more actions listed; these are options relating to how to minimize travel time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is readily determined by reading the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In-Game Events&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things which happen to the player's position other than by choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well done events can be a bonus to the replayability. Poorly done ones are a hinderance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a hard one to judge without play; the quality and effect of the randomization (or lack thereof) can make or break a game; this is doubly true in cooperative games, where the competition is usually versus the events instead of the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has to be determined by a study of the components and/or multiple plays. For cooperative games, this is where the meat of reviews really becomes important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wizards has dozens of events, and uses a number of different random tables for them.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dragonriders of Pern has at least one event every turn: the threadfall card. It also has players draw special cards, some of which are events. These provide most of the randomness needed for the replayability of this game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadows over Camelot has the entire black deck...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flash Point has only two randomizations, but they happen a lot: where the fire spreads, and where the next &amp;quot;point of interest&amp;quot; (POI) appears. Spread is every turn. POI appearance is whenever a victim has been rescued, or a victim is killed, or a POI is revealed to be blank.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Variable action results&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more potential results of a given action, the more replayability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, this is the result of randomizations in action resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Shadows Over Camelot, this is the random strength on the quest black cards, and the die-roll of the siege engine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Wizards, it's almost entirely die-rolls on tables.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Dragonriders of Pern, it's random die-rolls on both thread fighting and diplomacy.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flash Point has no variable results of decisions. All the random input is in where fire spreads, what's under the POI, and where POI's appear.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Imperfect Information&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game with either variable setup or variable events, a lack of full knowledge tends to improve replayability. If taken too far, however, it impairs playability over all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of information is usually readily determined from a rulebook; its effect on play, however, isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Wizards, there's lots of imperfect information, but anything in play is perfect information. You don't know what's coming, but you know all that's on the board so far.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In SoC, the imperfect information is extensive; what events are forthcoming, what cards your fellows have, who the traitor is. In fact, the major victory issue is reducing the uncertainties. If a group can readily reduce the uncertainties by consistent use of language without breaking the &amp;quot;no game mechanics discussion rule,&amp;quot; then the game is almost solved from the get go... reducing it to traitor hunt and race to complete quests in time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the competetive coop Dragonriders of Pern, the imperfect information about thread fall next turn makes the game much more tense; one option that reduces that is having a visibile queue of thread cards. It strongly changes the way experienced players play it in both the coop thread fighting and competitive diplomacy phase. The lack of information by the dice also inhibits long term planning.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In Flash Point, the information of the current state is almost perfect - the only thing you don't know is what a POI contains - it's either a victim or a blank. Future information is absent, since it's dependent upon random rolls and random draws.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In the end...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These factors combine to determine the most important singular qualifier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting choices that have multiple non-loss directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an interesting choice, but one direction leads to loss, and the other to victory, once you learn the difference, the choice is no longer interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the choice points are always the same and always have the same results, once you've explored them all, they become uninteresting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the four cooperative games I've mentioned (Shadows, Wizards, Dragonriders, Flash Point), I've found replayability a non-issue with any of them for infrequent plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadows, the choices are too similar in any two plays to play twice in a row, but separated by some time, the game remains interesting, especially if one doesn't replay with the exact same group every time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dragonriders, the game is a bit long, but the randomizations make the outcome in doubt right until the end, and despite very low starting variability, the high in-game variability makes the choices interesting and not a fixed-tree state. (It's also one of the few games that scales well 1-6 players)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wizards is even more wildly open. highly variable board, massive randomness in in game events and outcomes. It's also bloody hard, and competitive cooperative. Everyone has to cooperate against the board, or everyone loses; only one will in fact win, however, so there is some PVP action. Many of the choices are less than interesting, and there are up to a dozen trivial choices per turn; interesting choices are range from one per 10 turns (while on certain long tasks) to several in a turn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Flash Point can be replayed in rapid succession, due to the high level of randomness coupled to near-perfect current state information. While there is only one victory condition, the challenge remains high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Optional Rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inclusion of playtested optional rules also gives some games more replayability. Because they change some aspects of the rules, they also change the experience somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional rules fall broadly into a few key areas: difficulty changes, thematic changes, and alternate conditions. An optional rule for difficulty change makes the game either harder or easier, while not changing much of the mechanics. A thematic change changes the thematic nature of the pieces, but often involves little to no change in game play. An alternate conditions option is a change in either how you start, or what constitutes a victory or a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional rules need to be looked at carefully - sometimes, they are added because the game isn't long-term replayable without them; in others, they're there because they enable the game to be attractive to a wider audience, but don't really affect replayability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadows has an alternate setup option called the &amp;quot;Squires&amp;quot; option that changes the beginning setup slightly. Likewise, it has an option for a pure co-op play, by not using the loyalty cards, and an option for a harder game by including two traitor cards plus a loyal card per player, and thus not knowing whether there are zero, one, or two traitors.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dragonriders has a solitaire variant with similar but not identical rules. It also has the 7 player variant with the Harper Hall as a player, whose victory condition is by kingmaking.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wizards has the option of changing the duration between evil advancing. Longer makes it easier to thwart evil, and shorter makes it harder. Further, how many tasks must be completed to thwart evil may be changed, also affecting difficulty.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flash Point has a &amp;quot;Family Game&amp;quot; and an &amp;quot;Experienced Game&amp;quot; both in the basic rules. The family game is a fixed setup, and is simplified rules. The experienced game adds a number of additional mechanical complexities, including three difficulty levels, and is presented as a second section of the rulebook. A third section includes optional rules, including piecemeal adoption of the advanced game mechanics into the Family Game, and explicit permission to house-rule one's own additions to the game. The only option I've used is mixing in some of the expanded game into the basic game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T08:48:51.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2011-03-12T21:08:44.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to go in the opposite direction of the other answers and say that artillery isn't very useful. If you run &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sims&lt;/a&gt; to try and flesh out what is the optimal mix, you will probably find that using artillery is better. However I found that when actually playing the game, tanks have at least 3 significant advantages over artillery.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Retaining their offensive power&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When attacking a territory that is well defended, you can count on losing a lot of infantry. Since the third point for offensive power of artillery is dependent on having an accompanying infantry piece, your forces will lose significant offensive power when you start losing those pieces. Since tanks aren't dependent on the infantry, you will retain your offensive power longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is covered in the simulations, it is &lt;strong&gt;important to realize that the simulations favor artillery if you limit the size of the forces by IPCs. If you limit your forces by number of units, tanks fare significantly better&lt;/strong&gt; than artillery because they retain their power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gauging power by IPCs makes sense if you are talking about land battles in Europe, Asia and Africa. However if you are doing amphibious assaults(or your supply of troops comes from the sea) you are going to be limited by the number of transports and therefore the number of ground troops. When you have a navy offshore worth 100 IPCs and another 50 IPCs of aircraft supporting the invasion, I don't think it makes much sense to decrease your ground power just to save 2 or 3 IPCs(especially if you are losing planes to keep the last ground troop alive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increased defense&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the main challenge isn't taking a territory but actually holding on to it. While artillery give a boost to offensive power, that extra IPC doesn't do anything for you when defending. Since tanks defend on 3, they also give an added boost for defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moving 2 Spaces/Blitzing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most important advantage. While it is not very important in some theaters, it is critical in the Germany/Russia land war. Artillery will take 1-2 turns longer to get where they need to be than tanks. While the math may show artillery is optimal in these battles, they won't have any value if they're not at the battle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm playing that theater, I will often purchase a couple turns of infantry, then tanks then fighters and bombers. I try to time it so that when the main battle is fought, all the units from previous turns will be able to participate. If you are running with an optimized infantry/artillery mix, the player on defense is going to have several more turns worth of units in the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you may purchase a 15 IPC industrial complex in one of the 3 IPC territories to counteract this, it will still take 5 turns of purchasing artillery before you break even and those artillery will still have the above disadvantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the impression that you are looking more for a math oriented answer to what the optimal ground forces are. My general point is that there is no optimal mixture because everything is too dependent on the situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A math based solution isn't capable of taking into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the possibility(and costs) of the opponent's counterattack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how long it takes to move your forces into position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the added value of the territory you are conquering(and the loss of it from your opponent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the time component(since territories generate IPCs, they are more valuable if conquered sooner than later)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and probably a bunch of others I haven't thought of&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="757" LastEditorUserId="757" LastEditDate="2011-03-13T00:00:20.860" LastActivityDate="2011-03-13T00:00:20.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2902" CreationDate="2011-03-13T17:24:36.360" Score="3" ViewCount="1253" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got our hands on an old Destruct 3 game that came without any rules.  We contacted the makers (Uncle Skunkle), but oddly enough, they wouldn't send us the rules without documentation of where we got the game. We've made up some rules of our own, but they're not entirely satisfying.  Anyone know the real rules, or where we can get them without any paperwork?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1049" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T21:25:10.243" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T16:20:41.367" Title="Does anyone know the official rules for Destruct 3?" Tags="|destruct-3|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2901" CreationDate="2011-03-14T09:12:58.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://therealmajorfun.blogspot.com/2007/05/destruct-3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; might help. Although it's only a review, it does explain a lot about the scoring and building rules. There obviously are a few rules that are missing (ie. how the dice work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you do not have any kind of shop receipt for the game. You could suggest to them that you could send them a picture of the game to prove you actually have it. They could describe a specific setup for you to replicate so you can't just pick a picture off the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T09:12:58.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2903" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-14T09:59:25.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The island of Catan is made of hexagonal tiles which produce specific resources needed during the game. Three or four players (up to 6 with the extension) build settlements and roads on the corners of these tiles gather the resources. Eventually, they each build a little empire, upgrading settlements to cities, buying development cards, and playing soldiers to fend off the marauding robber. The first one to reach 10 victory points wins. Playtime is usually 90-120 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting resources is dependent on the placement of one's settlements and the roll of the dice, so it is often necessary to trade with other players (or the &quot;old world&quot; at predetermined ratios) in order to obtain the desired advancements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four expansions for the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/seafarers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'seafarers-of-catan'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;seafarers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt; adds ships and the possibility more complex board layouts including multiple islands.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-cities-and-knights&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'catan-cities-and-knights'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-cities-and-knights&lt;/a&gt; expands trade, adds secondary resources, reworks the development deck into 3 different progress areas, introduces barbarians that launch assaults on all of Catan and the knights used to defend against them. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-traders-barbarians&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'catan-traders-barbarians'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-traders-barbarians&lt;/a&gt; expands the barbarians mechanic and further expands trade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-explorers-pirates&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'catan-explorers-pirates'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-explorers-pirates&lt;/a&gt; adds the concept of additional islands.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are extensions for the base game and the expansions to support up to 6 players.&#xA;There are also a number of spin-offs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/starfarers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'starfarers-of-catan'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;starfarers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/starship-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'starship-catan'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;starship-catan&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-card-game&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'catan-card-game'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-card-game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally released in Germany in 1995, Settlers of Catan is immensely popular and is many people's first introduction to &quot;designer&quot; board games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="1977" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T22:49:59.000" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T22:49:59.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2904" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-14T09:59:25.620" Score="0" Body="Three or four players (up to 6 with the extension) play against each other to create the most prestigious settlement on the island of Catan, rolling dice to collect resources to build roads, towns, cities and other advancements. (90-120 minute playtime)" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T21:17:17.063" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T21:17:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2905" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-14T10:19:54.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strategic colony building game (about 90 to 150 minutes) where players build a Caribbean plantation and gain victory points for shipping goods back to the old world. Out of the box, the game is for three to five players, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ravensburger.com/content/wcm/mediadata/pdf/Microsites/Alea/Puerto%20Rico/US-SR%201.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an official two player variant exists&lt;/a&gt;. The game revolves around the &quot;variable phase order&quot; mechanic where every player selects a general action to be taken by everyone while gaining a specific temporary privilege himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players take turns choosing among the available roles - each granting a special privilege to the chooser and a general action to every player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settler&lt;/strong&gt; - Establishing a quarry to simplify building construction or a plantation to produce raw goods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Builder&lt;/strong&gt; - Build a processing plant to produce refined (shippable) goods or a special building granting special abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mayor&lt;/strong&gt; - Bringing in colonists to man the plantations and buildings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Craftsman&lt;/strong&gt; - Producing goods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trader&lt;/strong&gt; - Selling goods at the local market for gold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Captain&lt;/strong&gt; - Shipping goods to the old world for victory points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prospector&lt;/strong&gt; - Gaining one doubloon from the bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="13995" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T23:02:33.327" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T23:02:33.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2906" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-14T10:19:54.057" Score="0" Body="A strategic colony building game where you build a Caribbean plantation and gain victory points for shipping goods back to the old world. Out of the box, the game is for three to five players, but an official two player variant exists. The game revolves around the &quot;variable phase order&quot; mechanic--every player selects a general action to be taken by everyone while gaining a specific temporary privilege himself." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="13995" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T23:02:15.977" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T23:02:15.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2907" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-14T10:26:23.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players plant beans in their fields and harvest them for gold coins. Because they can only grow 2 (later 3) kinds of beans simultaneously, you need to carefully manage your fields. Player hands are frozen cards are always played from the left and added to the right. The only way to manage your hand is through constant negotiation with other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T20:16:14.410" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T20:16:14.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2908" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-14T10:26:23.270" Score="0" Body="A card game for 3 to 7 people where players try to earn money by planting and trading different beans. Players are unable to order the hand so a keen talent for negotiation is the only way ensure your hand works for you instead of against you." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2014-10-06T20:16:26.340" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T20:16:26.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-03-14T22:39:12.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrabble&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrabble is a nice choice because if nobody is playing defensively, then people just get to build longer/more fun words.  If your family won't cringe that Mom just opened up the triple word score for one of the kids then it can be a nice casual multi-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2011-03-14T22:39:12.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2914" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-15T08:06:55.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card sleeves originated from trading card games where decks do not consist of standardized cheap cards but can be difficult and expensive to obtain. Today sleeves are also available for other games that use large numbers of heavily customized cards. Especially when the complete game is expensive to difficult to obtain it becomes much more economic to protect the cards than to try and replace individual cards if they become damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in competitive environments card sleeves with opaque backs are often used to prevent marking of cards or keep cards indistinguishable even if wear and tear made some of them recognizable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T00:41:16.187" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T00:41:16.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2915" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-15T08:06:55.620" Score="0" Body="Plastic card sleeves are devices used to protect playing cards from damage." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T00:41:19.463" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T00:41:19.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2916" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-15T08:17:56.390" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T08:17:56.390" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T08:17:56.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2917" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-15T08:17:56.390" Score="0" Body="Dog / Tock is a cross and circle game for 2 to 4 players (occasionally up to 6) where pawns are moved by playing cards instead of rolling dice. The game can be played in a &quot;free for all&quot; manner or as a team based variant for 2, 4 or 6 players in teams of 2 or 3." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T00:40:53.393" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T00:40:53.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2920" CreationDate="2011-03-15T08:37:44.980" Score="11" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a situation where a player chooses the Trader because it has 5 coins even though he has nothing to sell in the trading house. Can he do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="500" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-03-15T14:54:00.080" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:55:19.483" Title="Can you select role which gives you money but you can't use it in Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2918" CreationDate="2011-03-15T09:50:33.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Definitely&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing a role merely for it's privilege is a perfectly valid move. It may not always be wise to choose a role you cannot fully take advantage of but if you are really short on cash such a trade off may be warranted...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T09:50:33.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2918" CreationDate="2011-03-15T11:00:13.130" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taken from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Implementing the action of a character is voluntary (exception: Captain)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: You can still choose Captain if you have no goods, the exception just means that if you pull Captain and have goods, you have to ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T16:55:19.483" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:55:19.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2877" CreationDate="2011-03-15T16:27:30.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Boardgaming Championships&lt;/a&gt; have Puerto Rico data posted online, I couldn't find the same stats for Settlers, BUT I think you could get ahold of the gamemaster and he probably has them.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbkex10/setpge.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Settlers link here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T16:27:30.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2923" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:05:54.550" Score="6" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;If only one prospector is chosen during a round, does the other one get a coin placed on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T21:27:52.227" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T16:30:30.013" Title="In Puerto Rico If only one prospector is chosen during a round, does the other one get a coin placed on it?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2922" CreationDate="2011-03-15T18:45:57.510" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any&lt;/strong&gt; role not chosen at the end of the round gets a coin placed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the official rules online, but I can point you to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/file/download/2fdktaeg63/PuertoRico_v1.1.pdf&quot;&gt;Universal Head rules summary&lt;/a&gt;, which says, under &quot;Reset the Roles&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place one doubloon on each of the three role cards not&#xA;  chosen this round and then return all role cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T18:45:57.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2922" CreationDate="2011-03-15T19:35:34.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_4_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, pg7 under &quot;A new round ...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, the governor takes three doubloons from the bank, placing one each on the three role cards that were not selected during the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-03-15T19:35:34.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2824" CreationDate="2011-03-16T19:21:56.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Tide of Iron affects Klaks Infernal artifact since it's treated as a monster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="434" LastEditorUserId="434" LastEditDate="2011-03-16T20:34:02.667" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T20:34:02.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2594" CreationDate="2011-03-16T21:31:49.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adam did an awesome job of answering, so I won't repeat anything he mentioned there, but there's 2 things I want to add.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I like mixing regular strip shuffles with the variant where you pick up most of the deck like normal, but instead of depositing cards with a chopping motion on one side of the cards only, alternate the side you put the cards on by flipping the growing pile back and forth with your fingers. This tends to mix things up a little better, and its pretty fun to do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I also use a method where you pick up 90% of the deck like you were going to strip, but instead of chopping the cards into your other hand, gradually reduce the pressure of your thumb and middle finger holding the cards above your hand. This will cause some cards to fall into your hand in a somewhat random order as they can fall from the middle, front, or back. This results in a sort of combination of the effects of striping to cycle cards around and rippling to reduce cards keeping the exact same order through the shuffle. As with any single shuffling technique, I wouldn't use it exclusively if you want the best results. :)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-03-16T21:31:49.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2934" CreationDate="2011-03-17T08:12:45.503" Score="6" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're planning a camping holiday and are expecting to be outside for a fair amount of it.  Most of the board games we enjoy have lots of small pieces, or require cards to be displayed on the table.  Are there any Eurogames that would stand up to a strong gust of wind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T16:29:11.217" Title="Eurogames suitable for playing outside" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:12:13.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2011-03-17T12:17:34.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've realized yourself games with light parts will be susceptible to wind. This is difficult to answer as it always depends on the strength of the wind but let me try...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blokus&lt;/strong&gt; - By the time those tiles fly off the board you probably don't want to play outside anymore anyway...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mesopotamia&lt;/strong&gt; - Might be borderline with the wooden pieces but the board itself should hold together well enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/strong&gt; - There are cards but with some stones or other items on top they should stay put.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tavel variants of games&lt;/strong&gt; - Most of them will have pieces that are either magnetic or get stuck into the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amazing Labyrinth&lt;/strong&gt; - Aside from the treasure cards there shouldn't be much of a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trick taking card games&lt;/strong&gt; - Not really euro games but since the cards don't stay on display for long they should work quite well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T12:17:34.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:07:58.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Climbers&lt;/strong&gt; - Doesn't involve any cards or lightweight pieces that can fly away. You build a large mountain ouf sturdy wooden blocks that have six differently colored sides. Pawns can only travel on their same color or neutral gray, with the objective of reaching the highest point. You get to pick up pieces of the mountain, changing their placement and orientation to allow for more moves, but at no point does it get into a situation where playing outside would be a problem. In fact, this game benefits from being able to take a look at the mountain from all angles, and people may be more willing to get up on their feet to consider moves than they would being glued to a dining room chair at a big table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T14:07:58.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:25:24.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than looking for particular games, you can look for ways to play your current games outside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace paper money with poker chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use small figurines or pewter pieces instead of lightweight pawns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the board inside of a larger container/box so that pieces will not fall into the grass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paper weights (or your legs) can keep cards pinned down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring rain prevention gear; standard board game boxes don't like getting wet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remind people to play more casual; the environment will be different and that should feel good not stressful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feel comfortable asking people for information. Don't make people lean over everything to read what is before you; just tell them when they want to know&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If people seem more interested in running around playing frisbee or exploring &lt;em&gt;that is okay&lt;/em&gt;; board games are great fun but don't pressure people into playing them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T14:25:24.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2011-03-17T14:47:09.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlingames.com/collections/puzzle-strike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puzzle Strike&lt;/a&gt; works well outside since the chips are much less susceptible to wind than cards in similar deck-building games (like Dominion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T14:47:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2928" CreationDate="2011-03-17T16:29:11.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Travel Editions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are travel editions of some very good boardgames that are specifically designed to have more durable board states than the standard games. For example...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3972/the-settlers-of-catan-travel-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; plays 3 or 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22484/ingenious-travel-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ingenious&lt;/a&gt; plays 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34127/ticket-to-ride-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride Card Game&lt;/a&gt; on a train - I think you could probably manage it outdoors, if you had a card table or something. A bungee cord strapped across each face of the tabletop could help everyone secure their cards and could be used to secure boards for games that have pieces substantial enough to survive some breezes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it's a &quot;Eurogame&quot;, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/526/abalone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abalone&lt;/a&gt; is an abstract with substantial, heavy pieces. At least, my '80s vintage edition is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dice games might be a good choice. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/62871/zombie-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/a&gt; would be a great choice for a quick game outside, especially after a few beers have dulled everyone's strategic minds a bit. But &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37380/roll-through-the-ages-the-bronze-age&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Roll Through the Ages&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent game by any standard! I've only played the iPhone implementation, but game state is maintained with pegs, not pieces, so it should naturally be wind-resistant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XgTKs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;RTtA Boards and dice from BGG&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T16:29:11.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2935" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-17T17:51:22.563" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T17:51:22.563" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T17:51:22.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2936" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-17T17:51:22.563" Score="0" Body="A classic war-game in which players try to conquer the world through military might. Players get reinforcement bonuses for conquering entire continents. Combat is ruled mostly by dice." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T18:26:42.713" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T18:26:42.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2937" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-17T19:46:22.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A popular poker game in which each player has 2 cards of their own that they must combine with 5 communal cards to make the best hand possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While most poker questions are on-topic here, there's a dedicated &lt;a href=&quot;https://poker.stackexchange.com&quot;&gt;Poker Stack Exchange&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12315" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T12:43:59.480" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:43:59.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2938" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-17T19:46:22.840" Score="0" Body="A popular poker game in which each player has 2 cards of their own that they must combine with 5 communal cards to make the best hand possible. While most poker questions are on-topic here, there's a dedicated Poker Stack Exchange as well." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T10:39:17.983" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T10:39:17.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2939" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-17T19:48:19.593" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-17T19:48:19.593" LastActivityDate="2011-03-17T19:48:19.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2940" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-17T19:48:19.593" Score="0" Body="A card game where players seek to build the most impressive districts in their cities. At the beginning of each round, players pass the character deck and secretly choose a character that grants them certain special abilities." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-18T03:07:48.340" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T03:07:48.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="748" CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:26:56.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is only slightly related in that none of these games would work as a benchmark, but &lt;strong&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;San Juan&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/strong&gt; more or less fit the &quot;ported&quot; description. The latter two were created as card game &quot;ports&quot; of Puerto Rico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason I mention this is that the game system itself is often the greatest factor in what makes the game playable or fun. I do not have personal experience with any of the systems you mentioned but it seems that any benchmark game that crosses game systems is going to have a rough time being complicated enough to be interesting while simple enough to port recognizably. In the case of Puerto Rico and Race for the Galaxy, the core mechanics are similar enough to see a connection but I really don't see them as similar games. (I have not played San Juan.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other games have certainly been ported -- generally they convert from board game to card game (&lt;strong&gt;Monopoly&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;). Conversions from computer games to board games has happened (&lt;strong&gt;World of Warcraft&lt;/strong&gt;; &lt;strong&gt;WoW TCG&lt;/strong&gt;). Spin-offs may also offer some insight toward successful translations of mechanics (&lt;strong&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/strong&gt; and its kin). The numerous requests and fan variants for solitaire rules for board games is another place to look for altered systems and mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T15:26:56.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2949" CreationDate="2011-03-18T15:45:16.827" Score="8" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;As my board game collection grows and wears down, I find myself curious about efficiencies that can be made when hauling games around from place to place. The first time I realized that you could simply improve on the shipped components was replacing all paper money with poker chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some other good ways to improve upon some of the lesser quality game components included in board games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific side-questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What components can be completely replaced/improved?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some ways to reduce the storage/carrying impact of games?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it wise to start condensing games?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:44:01.427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:44:01.427" Title="What are common replacement components?" Tags="|game-design|storage|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2948" CreationDate="2011-03-18T16:49:15.430" Score="9" ViewCount="1402" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games that have developed a strong professional circuit generally consider resignation a courteous behavior. Some consider &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; resigning discourteous. This question is about the rest of board gaming: When (if ever) is resigning acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T15:57:24.747" Title="What is the broader acceptance of resignation?" Tags="|etiquette|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2950" CreationDate="2011-03-18T17:08:17.853" Score="16" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/401/seating-orders-effect-on-puerto-rico&quot;&gt;well-known&lt;/a&gt; that there are disparities between the strength of various seats in Puerto Rico. How do tournaments deal with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please give details. I know that some competitions use bidding systems, but I haven't seen any specifics on how they work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T17:48:44.113" Title="How does tournament-level Puerto Rico deal with seat-order disparities?" Tags="|puerto-rico|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-03-18T17:42:52.037" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that resignation is perfectly acceptable as long as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) It was preceded by a good-faith effort to play optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) All parties who are affected by the resignation agree on its timeliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only times I feel a resignation is discourteous is when it negatively impacts people who were depending on your continued presence;  for example, if Japan were to unilaterally resign from a game of Axis &amp;amp; Allies despite the objection of Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T17:42:52.037" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2947" CreationDate="2011-03-18T17:43:50.607" Score="11" ViewCount="1906" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a hand like follows: Estate, Upgrade, Upgrade, Estate, Copper. 1 card in Draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play Upgrade (+1 card, +1 action) -&gt; Draw the last card from my Draw pile -&gt; Trash Estate from my hand and gain a Silver card. This silver card goes into discard. So far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I play my second Upgrade. Since there's no card in my Draw pile, I need to shuffle my Discard pile. Do I shuffle my silver card that I just gained or does do I leave it in the &quot;discard-of-the-current-turn&quot; pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general question is, if I need to shuffle my discard, do I shuffle all cards that I gained during the current turn? I know that I do not shuffle cards that I have set aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1032" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T18:17:21.537" Title="Discard pile and shuffling question" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2946" CreationDate="2011-03-18T18:17:21.537" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You include the card you just gained when re-shuffling.  There is only one discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that are set aside or revealed do not get re-shuffled until they are placed in the the discard pile as specified by the specific card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quotes from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Gain” – when a player gains a card, he takes the gained card (usually from&#xA;  the Supply) and puts it onto his Discard pile (unless the card says to put&#xA;  it elsewhere). The player does not get to use the card when he gains it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player places cards he Buys or otherwise acquires during the&#xA;  game on his Discard pile unless he is specifically directed to place&#xA;  them elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T18:17:21.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:40:19.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people I've played with have a &quot;See it through to the bitter end&quot; mentality. Especially for some of the longer games, like Advanced Civilization, Pax Britannica, and Supremacy. Then again, in those, the game is multi-player, and one player dropping out will drastically alter the flow of play; further, all three have victory conditions that can change the apparent leader to a loser in even the last turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see nothing wrong with offering a resignation, but I also often see it as discourteous to simply walk away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My usual experience with resignations in long games is one of two situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player has to leave for work. Generally, if this was known before hand, no big deal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player is frustrated, losing, and a jerk; player scatters pieces and/or flips board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, while no one I've played with saw offering to resign as inherently discourteous, neither was it discourteous to ask the attempting to resign player to play it out in multi-player games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T21:40:19.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2942" CreationDate="2011-03-18T21:53:23.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the question notes, Poker Chips in place of money is quite viable. I don't remove the money, just leave it bagged in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gaming stones or poker chips can be used to track victory points as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some sports games, counters or standups are replaced with meeples or minis readily. I've found that meeples fit beautifully on the Crash Tackle board, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any game using a pawn or meeple can usually be replaced with nice minis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any game using cardboard stand-ups is readily able to use minis in place of the stand-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Condensing Components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue of condensing depends a lot on how you play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting all one's Ticket To Ride games in one box simply means not being able to sell them off separately; the component overlap is quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting all one's 18xx games in one box, however, may result in a jumbled mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting all one's Dominion cards in one box is rapidly approaching impossible, but since the core boxes are equipped with decent organizer trays... it really isn't a superior approach, aside from issues of volume.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many card-only games can be readily condensed down to just a zipper-bagged set of cards and the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The typical condensation level apparently is a game and its own expansions.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Carcassonne box can't hold anything more, but has in it: Carc., River I &amp;amp; II, Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, Traders and Builders, Tower, Count, Princess &amp;amp; Dragon, King, and one other small one. The Tower literally is filled with all the tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-18T21:53:23.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2944" CreationDate="2011-03-19T03:25:20.643" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how they did it at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbkex10/propge.htm&quot;&gt;2010 World Boardgaming Championships&lt;/a&gt; and at &lt;a href=&quot;http://euroquest.gamesclubofmd.org/EQ_T06.aspx&quot;&gt;EuroQuest&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BIDDING FOR SEAT POSITION, STARTING WITH THE QUARTER-FINALS:&lt;/strong&gt; Starting with the quarter-final round games and continuing in the semi-finals and Final game, we will use mandatory bidding for all four seats. It will work as follows: Each player will randomly draw a random plantation tile (using the trading house values) to determine who bids first. For bidding in the semi-final round games, anyone advancing with a second place finish in the quarterfinals must pick last at his/her table (and hence will be assigned the lowest valued plantation). Similarly, anyone advancing to the quarterfinal round games with fewer wins will be assigned lower valued plantations than those with more wins, who shall be assigned higher valued plantations and therefore be among the first to bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going around in plantation order value (coffee goes first), each player will place a matching plantation tile on a bid value ranging from 0 to 5.0 VP (in increments of 0.5 VP) on a chart to be furnished by the GM. Bids may be zero but in all instances must be higher than any previous bids for a particular seat. Any player who has been outbid will have his/her marker removed and will, when his or her turn comes, bid again--either a higher value for the same seat or a different amount for another seat. A player whose bid is not topped by another bid does not get another bid -- instead the bidding goes around to the next player without a bid marker in play. The process continues until all players' bid markers are on a different seat, with the resulting bid representing the VP handicap to be assigned for that particular game. These VP handicaps will be noted at the top of the particular seat position (1, 2, 3 or 4) on the scoresheet above the player's name and will be subtracted from that player's VP total at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T17:48:44.113" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T17:48:44.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-03-19T16:01:01.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually did settlers of catan at the last place I worked at, although our group was limited up to six people. Always good for quickly killing off an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T16:01:01.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-03-19T18:45:49.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's funny, I was going to use A&amp;amp;A as a perfect example of a game where I would consider it very rude not to resign, although I was thinking about the Axis or Allied players retiring together as a group--I agree that one member of an alliance resigning unilaterally would be in very bad taste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The criterion I use is that a player should resign when &lt;strong&gt;it's obvious that the victor is obvious but that achieving the stated victory conditions will take a long time.&lt;/strong&gt; A&amp;amp;A is the quintessential example because of how hard it is to captured the &quot;island&quot; of Japan, Great Britian, and North America. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T18:45:49.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-03-19T19:41:34.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the type of game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a game &lt;strong&gt;between two players&lt;/strong&gt;, I would encourage resigning. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a game between &lt;strong&gt;more players&lt;/strong&gt;, it depends on the game:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the game has &lt;strong&gt;rules&lt;/strong&gt; for resigning, or players can agree on a set of rules, resigning should be allowed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However, if resigning would &lt;strong&gt;spoil the game for any&lt;/strong&gt; of the other players, all players should be encouraged to play out the entire game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 is easy: when you're playing chess, there is more honor (and a sign that you atleast understand the game of your opponent) in seeing when you are lost, then in playing on and hoping the other person will make a mistake. When I see I'm lost and I'm sure the other person knows he's won, I will usually resign. Unless when I want to learn from the other player, in which case I'll say &quot;I know you've won, but I want to strengthen my endgame for a bit by watching how you do it&quot; or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2: for example in Monopoly, a resigning player could just donate his property to the bank, if the other players agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there might be cases where the other players don't agree, for instance when the quitting player will probably be hitting one player's hotels the next turn - the other player may feel his odds of winning decrease when the player goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One small tip: if you do insist the game is played to the bitter end, &lt;strong&gt;take away the bitter&lt;/strong&gt;. Grab something to drink and/or to munch on, make jokes, have a conversation. Thank the player for continuing to play, apologize that he still has to play but explain that this allows the other players to end the game as it is supposed to be played. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastActivityDate="2011-03-19T19:41:34.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2963" CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:26:18.760" Score="10" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the wording on my Party Bonus card...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If someone has the Party on the table, all players may Draw 1 extra card and may Play 1 extra card during their turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the word &quot;may&quot; that's throwing me off. With most of the other new rule cards that I've looked at, the description is very clear that you must do what it says. In this case, however, it seems to be left open to the player's discretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I guess the other part that throws me off is that I read through all of the new rule cards and found that the Rich Bonus and Poor Bonus are inconsistent on the same subject. Only the Rich Bonus one says &quot;may.&quot; The Poor Bonus is worded as though it's mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="933" LastEditDate="2011-03-20T20:15:11.960" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T20:43:19.707" Title="Are drawing an extra card and playing an extra card optional when the Party Bonus rule is in effect?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2959" CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:26:21.203" Score="9" ViewCount="981" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the &quot;Deputy of Arkham&quot; card count as an item, for the purposes of counting up your total items when forced to lose half your items?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T00:10:30.327" Title="Is the Deputy Card an Item?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2958" CreationDate="2011-03-20T01:28:38.333" Score="10" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Hound of Tindalos says that it automatically moves to the closest investigator.  Which investigator does it target in the case of two equidistant investigators in different locations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T03:10:05.187" Title="Hound of Tindalos tiebreaker?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2957" CreationDate="2011-03-20T03:10:05.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Who determines where a Hound of Tindalos moves if two investigators are tied in being nearest to the hound?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; As per the rules governing flying monsters, the hound will go after the investigator with the lower Sneak value. In case of a tie, the first player chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T03:10:05.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2956" CreationDate="2011-03-20T03:13:24.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No, it does not count as an item&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 16 note on the middle of the right hand column:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important:&lt;/strong&gt; When adding up items before discarding&#xA;them, count all Common Items, Unique Items, and&#xA;Spells. In addition, the Deputy’s Revolver and the Patrol&#xA;Wagon both count as items. Allies, Skills, and other&#xA;cards do not count towards this total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &amp;quot;Deputy of Arkham&amp;quot; falls under &amp;quot;other cards&amp;quot;, it does not count when adding up items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T00:10:30.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2962" CreationDate="2011-03-20T12:44:18.850" Score="15" ViewCount="3485" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules (official or otherwise) that would govern trying to string together multiple games of Arkham Horror into some sort of a campaign structure?  The idea would be for the investigators to retain some of their capabilities from game to game, and the game itself would have to ramp up in difficulty in some manner to compensate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T11:26:07.383" Title="Is there a &quot;Campaign Mode&quot; set of rules available for Arkham Horror?" Tags="|house-rules|arkham-horror|variants|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2011-03-20T13:31:44.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to check out Arkham Investigations on some alternate rules on creating &quot;modules&quot; for Arkham. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arkhaminvestigations.barkingdoginteractive.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://arkhaminvestigations.barkingdoginteractive.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think each module is self-contained, but you may want to pull some ideas from here on ramping up the difficulty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T13:31:44.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:32:24.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may not be exactly what you're looking for, but check out the Scenarios FFG created for League play (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Scenario&quot;&gt;here's a link to information about them on the Arkham Horror Wiki&lt;/a&gt;).  They do ramp up in difficulty, and the Spanish league scenarios have a continuing story.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure you could easily adapt things so that your characters grow and develop through the games, perhaps by adjusting some of the stats or giving bonuses based on how the investigators &quot;performed&quot; in the previous scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T20:32:24.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2955" CreationDate="2011-03-20T20:43:19.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;May&lt;/strong&gt; is optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I could find no direct rules citation there is this question from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rabbits.continuation.org/wiki/Fluxx_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rabbit Wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; When a card states that you &amp;quot;may&amp;quot; play 1 extra card (e.g., Rich Bonus or Party Bonus), and inflation is in play, it is treated as you may play 2 extra cards. Does this mean that you have to choose between playing 0 and playing 2, or can you also play only 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; It's either zero or two. There is no one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer clearly indicates that &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; is optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-03-20T20:43:19.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2967" CreationDate="2011-03-21T14:09:09.790" Score="13" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night it took me nearly 10 minutes to get a game from the bottom of my current stack of games and put everything back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm convinced that stacking my board games on top of each other is no longer a reasonable solution, and is actually one thing preventing me from playing games as often as I'd like.  Ideally it should be as easy to get a game out and set up as it is to turn on the TV, and while I can't realize that situation yet, I would at least like to  get a little closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on storing my boxed games on edge, with the internals separated in baggies, but this leads me to a few questions, which you will hopefully have a solution for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games in long thin boxes, such as monopoly and clue, tend to open if there's not enough pressure on the top and bottom, making removal difficult and/or tricky (incompatible with children) and causing them to spill their contents.  Rubber bands slip off, break, and interfere with removing boxes from the shelf.  Do I have any options here, or do I need to give up on storing games like I store books?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited space means I can't have a shelf for each size of game box. What are some good organization strategies or techniques so games are easy to find, and fit well next to each other despite widely varying dimensions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What other organization strategies should I consider, or is there a way to use the stacking method while allowing games to be easy to remove and put away?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1068" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T13:45:06.933" Title="How to successfully store games on edge?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2966" CreationDate="2011-03-21T15:44:17.827" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also been trying to fit more board games in less space recently.  Some notes so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The modern medium-square-box style of game works fine on the side in a bookcase; e.g. pretty much anything by Fantasy Flight or Days of Wonder.  Catan and similar smaller boxes will work OK even on their end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Old-style flat/thin boxes (Monopoly etc.) really don't side-stack well.  (But frankly, they're also often inferior to modern game designs, so I don't mind leaving them at the bottom of a pile.)   Other games pile really well sideways on top of a Monopoly box.  If you're strong: Monopoly and Clue can go at the bottom, be pulled out sideways, and then the one you didn't play be lifted up along with all games on top of it to slide your chosen game back in underneath.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lot of older games have bigger boxes than they need.  If you don't care about resale value, your Monopoly and Clue sets will fit just fine in the Monopoly box.  (If you're not bothered at all by losing the boxes, consider just getting a bunch of clear plastic boxes which &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; stack and repacking all your games in them.  Add some sticky labels on the sides and you're done.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In limited space, start by packing the biggest games in a corner first, then work outward.  This makes the larger games less accessible - but they're often also the longest, least-often-played.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If rubber bands aren't working for you, try a long strip of velcro fastener... usually comes in the form of a long fuzzy strip with velcro on the end.  It'll wrap around the box and seal to itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you play any small pub card games (e.g. anything by Cheapass or Looney Labs), get a single case you can carry easily to fit them all in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've got all my small card games and Icehouse pieces packed in a single old vanity case.  Not only compact, but easy to take to the pub.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hints on internal organisation of the games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic baggies are OK for games with few counters, but clumsy for many.  Any craft shop will carry subdivided plastic trays in various sizes, intended for storing beads and the like.  They work very well for storing counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For example, my Galactica set has the boards underneath with a plastic box on top with all counters and pieces divided by type, and the decks of cards lying rubber-banded alongside.  All expansions fit neatly in the original box and we don't have to sort out the pieces before play, just take out the storage box and leave it by the board.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Card decks rubber-band just fine.  (Leave a couple of spare rubber bands in the game box for those moments when they snap.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider preferring games with good storage trays built in!  (Small World and Dominion spring to mind.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T15:44:17.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2011-03-21T16:33:24.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To people who play Arkham Horror, there is known to some an application called Strange Eons.  This program helps players create their own game content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is hoped that Strange Eons will at some point support MoM as well.  Then people will be able to write their own stories, with their own unique story elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until then, producing your own scenarios would present an inordinate amount of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1069" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T16:33:24.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2971" CreationDate="2011-03-21T20:01:56.187" Score="11" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many groups of gamers will eventually attract potential game designers. I love testing games or playing with mechanics and enjoy play testing or theory crafting. But a good boardgamer does not a designer make and I find that most ideas are terrible or have already been done a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also encompasses most of the fan variants and expansions for games. People, generally speaking, have no idea how to make a game. Unfortunately, I have problems being too direct or speaking in wild absolutes. This tends to make these potential designers (who are often friends I would like to keep) offended or defensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question boils down into two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I explain my objections or concerns clearly without being too direct or aggressive?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are these potential designers actually expecting from me? Am I putting myself on too high a pedestal in thinking they want me to respond as I have been?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:42:26.513" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:42:26.513" Title="How do I tell potential game designers their ideas are bad?" Tags="|game-design|psychology|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2970" CreationDate="2011-03-21T21:31:52.747" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;My tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Understand the expectations.  Is your friend asking you to playtest, debug, and improve the game with critical feedback?  Or does he think it's great already, and just wants to play it with you? Ask him what he wants from you before playing, even!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State your criticisms as opinions where possible.  Instead of &quot;this is a bad mechanic&quot; try to go for &quot;I don't personally like this mechanic because of X&quot;.  Even if you think that EVERY right-thinking gamer will share your opinion of the mechanic it's ultimately your view of the situation, and stating it that way instead of as an absolute is a less confrontational path.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Instead of just criticizing elements you don't like, dig down into them. Ask questions and try to find out why your buddy used that element in the first place.  What was the goal of that element of the design?  What &quot;feel&quot; is it supposed to evoke?  Heck, sometimes this kind of digging will reveal to them that they don't HAVE an answer for these questions, making the element's weakness clear.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon re-reading I see that my tips are largely things you already acknowledge as the problems (knowing the expectations, avoiding wild absolutes) but perhaps this will help to some degree regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T21:31:52.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2966" CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:35:07.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storing on side? Being an old-school wargamer, three things come immediately to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counter Trays&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ziplock Baggies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Box Bands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There used to be plastic vacuformed couter trays (with lids) available; probably still are. Other equivalents are small plano boxes, and sewing organizers, many of which will work, as well, for keeping bits organized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ziplocks, in assorted sizes. Jewelry sized (3x4&quot;), snack sized, and sandwich sized give you lots of storage options with little overage and space waste. Stuff in ziplocks will slide within, but won't mix-n-mingle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Box bands come in several types... one is just a large rubber band. Better quality are the genuine &quot;Box Bands&quot; which make an X shape. Also, one can make short sleeves from paper, transparency sheet, or light card; glue or tape these into a 3&quot; wide sleeve, and it will keep the box from opening while on the shelf. Tyvek also has been used for sleeving boxes; it works great, and you might be able to get some scrap from a construction site that's more than large enough for banding boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the more esoteric stuff: if the bits won't survive sliding about, it may be time to adjust an insert. If the insert holds stuff nicely, but the lid doesn't hold stuff down into the insert, but you have the counter sprues, see if putting them under the insert holds it up enough. If not, buy some self-expanding insulation spray foam. Measure how much lift you need to secure the bits tray against the lit. Empty and remove the insert. fill the back of the insert to an even layer in stages; leave a bit of space. Using masking tape, raise the edge of the insert the needed amount, then fill to that level, and trim. Let dry thoroughly. Place back in box, load, lid, and test. Then, finally, make a box band to hold the lid on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some bits trays just badly suck... for those, replacement is the best option.If good with papercrafts, one can make card dividers, full height of the box less the rulebook's thickness. I've friends who've done this; me, I'm not a papercrafts-person. One can also buy sheets of sponge-foam. Cut to size, and using a really sharp knife, cut slots. If you want a smooth finish, cut every slot 1/16&quot; thicker than desired, and then paint (while empty but assembled, and nowhere near the box!) with wall paints, latex &amp;amp;/or acrylic... this seals up the pores, and provides a plastic or latex shell; use several thin coats to avoid wicking deep. (I've done this for instrument case repairs, and for minis storage. The latex acrylic was an accidental discovery...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and for reference, insul-foaming an insert makes it MUCH more rigid. It adds some weight, but it also means an insert that will last for YEARS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T22:35:07.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1523" CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:37:35.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store all my tiles in the assembled Tower, tower in the draw bag, and first thing put back in the box. All the meeples in snack sized ziplocks, nestled around it, and the odd bits (Count's castle, River/River II) in ziplocks as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-21T22:37:35.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-03-21T22:43:07.267" Score="4" ViewCount="2487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some card trays for a game I've been designing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, they would be six-slot trays that hold standard playing card sized cards.&#xA;In my mind, they are similar in appearance and quality to the trays that are used to hold money in monopoly.  I've found some things that are similar, but nothing exactly like that.&#xA;I'd need one for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any recommended resources for something like that?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My best solution right now is pillaging thrift store games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be expanded into a broader question - &#xA;what are the best websites and box stores for buying game-making materials?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this tray is what I'm looking for:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OsUNN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Monopoly money tray&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1072" LastEditorUserId="970" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T18:22:19.217" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T18:22:19.217" Title="What is the best resource for Card Trays?" Tags="|playing-cards|components|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2970" CreationDate="2011-03-22T06:19:14.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Include a list of things you do and don't like about the design, rather than just the bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put it in writing; edit it, and reread it after writing it but before delivering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be prepared to explain in more detail, but don't be over-detailed in your initial list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be confrontational; it just makes life harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T06:19:14.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2974" CreationDate="2011-03-22T07:31:50.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without parameters on shape, size, and cost, it's difficult to give a good answer.  However, if it were my game and I needed 4-5 6-slot horizontal card slots, I would consider making them out of folded cardboard.  With a little trial and error it should be simple to shape what you need from 7x3 (21) horizontal folds, and 3 vertical folds with 2-4 tabs to keep the shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want plastic, you likely want to purchase your own vacuum former.  Hobby versions can be had for as little as $120 (plus materials).  They work by laying a piece of plastic over a mold you create to form any plastic shape you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.widgetworksunlimited.com/Vacuum_Formers_s/35.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Random site selling a former&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T07:31:50.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2147" CreationDate="2011-03-22T09:15:24.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you didn't really seem to have much of a problem buying cards, you were merely surprised that he was able to win using the victory tokens. So did it really make it un-fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is goons broken? I mean the attack is nowhere near as ruinous as Witch/Mountebank/Pirate Ship/Sea Hag. Sure its a great card, but there are definitely ways to work around it, and it generally isn't an auto-buy unless you can make use of the +buy and/or have +actions. So I can't really justify &quot;banning&quot; it unless you just don't like attack cards in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, spending time trashing cards really isn't that efficient against mass goons, because you could just keep the junk and discard it. So maybe it might have been more effective to get a different 5 cost card rather than trading post and make use of that secret chamber you mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is, ya goons is great, but for a 6 cost card, it only gives 2 buying power, and the attack is average. It is basically a militia for 6 that trades what could have been more buying power for some victory tokens for the end game. I definitely wouldn't leave it under the card tray where pirate ship is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="774" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T09:15:24.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2980" CreationDate="2011-03-22T13:15:13.253" Score="3" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played my first real BSG game last week with three players and the humans got wiped out before we even jumped once...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some calculations to figure out if things get easier or harder with more players. What I found out made me wonder how player manage to beat the crisis cards at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Average difficulty of a crisis is 9.95 points.&#xA;Average value of a skill card is 2.14 points.&#xA;Average chance of a skill check in a crisis card is 58.6%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every human player gets 5 cards in his turn.&#xA;Every cylon player gets 2 cards in his turn (when revealed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming every card can be put to good use in a skill check we can calculate the amount of points the humans can field and the amount of points the cylons can field in every full round (where every player had his turn). The difference is the amount of points in favor of the humans. That divided by the number of players and 58.6% is the amount of points in favor of the humans per skill check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the number of players/cylons the points in favor of the humans are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2:1 ...  9.75&#xA;3:1 ... 11.89&#xA;2:2 ...  5.49&#xA;3:2 ...  8.05&#xA;4:2 ...  9.75&#xA;3:3 ...  5.49&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the best case scenario at 3:1 there is no situation where it reaches the average of 9.95 points per skill check. The destiny deck is roughly balanced (average of -0.1 points per check) so we can ignore this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion:&lt;/strong&gt; Aside from somehow drawing more cards the humans cannot win every skill check even if they were to play their cards perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how should the humans approach the skill checks on the crisis cards to win as much as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Discuss which ones to fail and which ones to beat. &lt;strike&gt;Doesn't work so well since the cylons will also know when they need to fight a check and when they can save their cards. Thus the ratio of cards remains the same.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Use XO's exclusively to draw additional cards. One additional card per turn would be enough statistically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Option 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Try to undercut every crisis just a little in the hopes that the destiny deck will make at least some of them pass...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other Options?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-03-22T17:44:40.373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T22:06:19.220" Title="Strategy for succeeding at Crisis skill checks" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|cooperation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2974" CreationDate="2011-03-22T13:42:27.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you looking for something similar to the card trays from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/917/rack-o&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rack-O&lt;/a&gt;? I believe Rack-O sets come with four of these and are pretty cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ODAYu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T13:42:27.883" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2011-03-22T14:38:15.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our games we frequently don't attempt to pass some crises - either because we're pretty sure we don't have the cards to do it (so why waste what we do have) - or because the Fail result of the Crisis isn't that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using XOs in general is good, of course, and the humans should use them wherever possible - I wouldn't use them exclusively to draw cards, but on occasion that's useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a few extra ways to manipulate skill checks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Emergency can lower the difficulty of a skill check by 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boomer can auto-pass a skill check once per game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T14:38:15.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2983" CreationDate="2011-03-22T15:27:10.803" Score="10" ViewCount="5202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been considering purchasing a whack of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=86&amp;amp;enmi=Fantasy%20Flight%20Supply&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight Supply board game sleeves&lt;/a&gt; for my Arkham Horror game and expansions.  Does anyone know how many of each type of sleeve I would need to purchase to cover the various cards in the main box and all of the expansions to date?  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T02:45:19.037" Title="If I wanted to buy a card protector for every card in Arkham Horror (and expansions), how many would I need of each type?" Tags="|arkham-horror|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2011-03-22T15:33:42.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's a flaw in your analysis somewhere (I don't see one at first glance) or not, but it doesn't seem to reflect my experience with the game (and I've played a lot, though I haven't played a 4 or 3-player game in a while). In my experience, the Humans usually don't have much trouble passing checks. In fact, we usually way overshoot what we need. The only time we start thinking &quot;should we just let this check fail&quot; is when things start to get really desperate, which usually only happens about twice a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess I wouldn't recommend any of your options as a standard course of action. I've found that it usually isn't too hard for the Humans to pass most checks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this was only your first game, I suggest playing a couple more times to see if you have similar results. It may have been a fluke. I have to say I've never seen the Humans lose anywhere near that fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T15:33:42.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2981" CreationDate="2011-03-22T16:02:00.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Set                     Investigator   Ancient One&#xA;Arkham Horror              189             179&#xA;Curse of the Dark Pharoah   76              90&#xA;Dunwich Horror             152             180&#xA;The King in Yellow          76              90&#xA;Kingsport Horror           112             207&#xA;Black Goat of the Woods     90              88&#xA;Innsmouth Horror            96             176&#xA;Lurker at the Threshold     56             110&#xA;Miskatonic Horror          112             336&#xA;&#xA;Total                      959            1456&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/ffg-supply/PDF/supply-list-brochure-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight Sleeve Guide&lt;/a&gt;, that equates to 20 packs of Mini American Board Game Sleeves and 30 packs of Standard American Board Game Sleeves if you have everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-21T02:45:19.037" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T02:45:19.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="2984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2970" CreationDate="2011-03-22T17:39:36.467" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a game designer, I know I want the truth from people I show the game to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also know that most people just don't give critical feedback. By &quot;critical,&quot; I mean a skilled judgment or analysis, as in &quot;critical thinking.&quot; I've been involved in enough creative endeavors to know that most think only as far as, &quot;I liked that,&quot; or, &quot;That sucked.&quot; I've shown short films to an audience, watched them laugh uproariously, and then say, &quot;It was OK,&quot; when asked if they liked it. So I've learned to take feedback for what it is, and not to hang too much of my own self-worth on it. I don't know if your game designers have grown the requisite thick skin or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this combination of factors makes me able to give you advice about giving feedback - good or bad. I know it seems easier to say, &quot;That was fun!&quot; but both kinds of feedback should follow the same rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When someone asks you to test a game, if you don't want to put the effort in to provide decent feedback, just politely decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to accept, you now have a responsibility to think about the game and what you like and don't like about it. Instead of just a blanket, &quot;This rocks!&quot; or, &quot;That was awful,&quot; you owe the designer the courtesy of considering the question, &quot;Why?&quot; And then you can give the designer the answer to that question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have an RPG in playtest right now, and something like, &quot;I felt like it was too hard to succeed - even things my character was good at seemed out of reach,&quot; is good feedback. It gives me something to look at, or even questions to ask the playtester. And I would rather have &lt;strong&gt;critical&lt;/strong&gt; negative feedback than thoughtless positive feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-03-22T17:39:36.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2011-03-23T16:23:11.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think creating your own stories will be quite doable, but &lt;em&gt;you will be strongly constrained by the chrome in the game&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you will reuse the cards &quot;clue 1, clue 2, clue 3&quot; etc, then hand the user a new clue when they find the ones from a scenario you've exhausted so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I especially think new scenarios with &quot;pieces missing&quot; will be a strong way to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1076" LastActivityDate="2011-03-23T16:23:11.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2011-03-24T07:12:40.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your data is fine, but your conclusion is flawed.  You're right that total card effort for skill checks is below total skill checks on a per-skill check basis.  However, you're failing to see that failing a single check through card conservation allows a pool which makes the next several checks succeed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use your example of 4 humans and 2 cylons.  You show 9.75 points possible (per check) with a difficulty of 9.95 per check.  Let's simplify the numbers and say that the players all together can amass 9 points per check, but the difficulty is 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the players tried their best every check, they'd always get 9, and the difficulty each time would be 10, and they'd always fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, let's say the players completely skip the first skill check, and suffer then consequences.  What happens?  For check #2, they STILL HAVE the points/cards from the first check.  So now, they have 18 collectively (they drew 9 more each turn), they spend 10, and pass check #2. Now for check #3, they have 17, they spend 10, and have 7 left.  Check #3 they have 16 total, spend 10, pass, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by skipping one check they can succeed at all of the next 8 checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, in real game pay, the players experience this in reverse (overspending on the first few, and running out at about check #9), but the math is the same either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T07:12:40.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2966" CreationDate="2011-03-24T07:27:40.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me if your games are getting crushed or it's taking so long to get at the bottom ones, your stacks are too high.  I suggest dividing your shelving so that you have only about five games high, which keeps the weight down and makes removal, even via sliding, easy.  In college, I used milk crates for this purpose, stacked 8x6 so nearly 50 different cubbies for games.  (Now I use a custom built shelves).  If you have a little more dough to spend, you can get stuff at major retail outlet or office supply companies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things like this are great at storing games, just make sure they're deep enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/179-8396512-9645447?asin=B00362TV7M&amp;amp;AFID=Froogle_df&amp;amp;LNM=%7CB00362TV7M&amp;amp;CPNG=home%20decor&amp;amp;ci_src=14110944&amp;amp;ci_sku=B00362TV7M&amp;amp;ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Random Shelf from Target&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T07:27:40.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2989" CreationDate="2011-03-24T09:31:20.123" Score="15" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;To anyone that has played &lt;a href=&quot;http://1000bwc.org/&quot;&gt;1000bwc&lt;/a&gt;, or seen it played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it really work in practice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it only work for fun, or can you get a semi-serious competative game out of it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone actually play this game or is it a random novelty?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1058" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T17:36:27.703" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T17:36:27.703" Title="Effectiveness of 1000 BWC in practice" Tags="|1000-blank-white-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2988" CreationDate="2011-03-24T13:01:22.913" Score="12" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It really works in practice&lt;/strong&gt;. I've been part of an annual game of 1KBWC for many years, and it's still fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It only works for fun&lt;/strong&gt;. Any competitive elements present are pastiches of elements of other games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I actually play this game.&lt;/strong&gt; That does not prevent it from being a random novelty, but it answers the first part of the question handily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T13:01:22.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3458" CreationDate="2011-03-24T17:13:04.923" Score="5" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I bought some Shaun the Sheep games from kosmos.de, but the rules are in German. Does anyone know the rules for next two games :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kosmos.de/content/fileadmin/Media/Anleitungen_FAQ/shaun_das_schaf_komme_was_wolle.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;card game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kosmos.de/kosmos/wrs/wrs.nsf/$WebFirstSourceDiashow/FSE03CB301C1CCE45BC1257532001E49FC?openDocument&amp;amp;_lang=EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;board game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1085" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-01T21:17:40.680" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T21:17:40.680" Title="Shaun the Sheep games rules?" Tags="|shaun-the-sheep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="2991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2011-03-24T19:37:26.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crisis Deck Management&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You haven't put much emphasis on crisis deck management, which is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can scout to bottom deck crisis cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roslin can select one crisis out of two on her turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boomer gets to see the next crisis before it is revealed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these abilities can mitigate the damage caused by failing a crisis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Track Destiny&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can keep track of destiny, so you can avoid playing when its stacked against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evil and clever brig hack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get around the players personal objections to this, having a player (even human) in the bring increases the number of skill cards drawn per crisis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine everyone is in the brig.  Then you can cycle through the skill deck, getting all of the best cards into players hand before ever having a crisis check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2011-03-24T20:08:48.143" LastActivityDate="2011-03-24T20:08:48.143" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2994" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:20:32.410" Score="7" ViewCount="2182" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3rd ability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=!Nissa%20Revane&quot;&gt;Nissa Revane Planeswalker&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-7: Search your library for any number of Elf creature cards and put them onto the battlefield. Then shuffle your library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is do the Elf creature cards put into the battlefield as a result of this ability suffer from summoning sickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-03-25T00:28:47.923" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T00:34:40.197" Title="Do the Elf creatures put into the battlefield by Planeswalker Nissa Revane suffer from summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:21:29.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:28:02.700" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any creature in play that wasn't in play at the start of the turn suffers summoning sickness. So yes, the Elves will have summoning sickness. Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rule&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap&#xA;  symbol in its activation cost can't be&#xA;  activated unless the creature has been&#xA;  under its controller's control&#xA;  continuously since his or her most&#xA;  recent turn began. A creature can't&#xA;  attack unless it has been under its&#xA;  controller's control continuously&#xA;  since his or her most recent turn&#xA;  began. This rule is informally called&#xA;  the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-03-25T00:33:50.260" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T00:33:50.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2992" CreationDate="2011-03-25T00:34:40.197" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110204.txt&quot;&gt;Comprehensive&lt;/a&gt; rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any elf with Haste ignores that restriction as usual of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T00:34:40.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="2998" CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:38:34.913" Score="14" ViewCount="3264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received &quot;Munchkin Quest&quot; as a gift. I had expected to get the classic &quot;Munchkin&quot;; I don't really know this variant but exchanging it is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish to play this with some of my not-so-board-game-aholic friends, and I imagine that the classic version is way easier, what with the tiles and creatures and markers taken out of the equation. I hope to &quot;upgrade&quot; them as time goes by, but better to start them on Level 1, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, finally, my question: Can one play a round of classic Munchkin using a box of Munchkin Quest? Or, are there prohibitive differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1089" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T18:30:23.663" Title="Can Munchkin Quest be used for classic Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|munchkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2978" CreationDate="2011-03-25T12:41:27.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of players does not directly change the difficulty of the game.  I feel like i makes it easier to play with less just because there is less stuff to track.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This happens because the amount of cards drawn in total by all players directly balances out to the number of crisis that happen.  More players have a wider variety of cards but not more than less.&#xA;The cylons cannot poison every check.  In fact they must often help out.  It is very easy to figure out who is responsible if someone just keeps contributing negative cards.  Once they humans have identified the cylon using executive actions victory becomes easy if a lot of damage was not already done.&#xA;A good way to pass a check without throwing a lot of effort is to let only one person contribute cards if they say they can.  If anyone does not do it and adds cards anyway they are most likely a cylon.  If the one person clearly does not make an effort to pass, it is only one loss and then you know who the cylon is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T12:41:27.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="140" CreationDate="2011-03-25T17:52:54.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a strategy suggestion when playing by the rules (one character each, one Mythos phase each turn): you probably might want to almost completely ignore gates, or just seal one occasionally, when this does not detract from other actions, concentrating instead on getting weapons, skills etc. to confront the endgame Ancient One (of course, this strategy is meaningless when the Ancient One is Azathoth). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="833" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T17:52:54.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2995" CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:00:00.743" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer explanation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are &lt;strong&gt;totally different games&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1927/munchkin&quot;&gt;Munchkin&lt;/a&gt; is a card game. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/29678/munchkin-quest&quot;&gt;Munchkin Quest&lt;/a&gt; is a board game. They share:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A theme: &lt;em&gt;Kill the monsters, take their stuff, stab your buddy&lt;/em&gt; - parodying power-gaming RPGers of a certain stripe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An artist: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/6815/john-kovalic&quot;&gt;John Kovalic&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A goal: Reach level 10 first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Publisher: &lt;a href=&quot;http://sjgames.com/&quot;&gt;Steve Jackson Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An official website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the materials in MQ will not allow you to play Munchkin. And no amount of Munchkin sets will allow you to play MQ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-03-27T18:11:04.780" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T18:11:04.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="2999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3038" CreationDate="2011-03-25T18:09:20.423" Score="10" ViewCount="3622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I now have a few games of Mansions of Madness under my belt, all of them with three players - a Keeper and 2 Investigators. And I've noticed that there doesn't seem to be time for them (the Investigators) to get even the majority of the house explored or make much progress once the objective is revealed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I turned my designer's eye on it and thought this thought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a 5-player game (a Keeper and 4 Investigators), the Investigators will have 4 actions per turn. So an Event card that takes 3 turns to flip expects 12 actions to occur before it's activated. With 2 Investigators, only 6 actions have been taken in the same span. Since the Event card timings do not scale with the number of Investigators, it is no wonder that it seems the players are running out of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw two possible fixes for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give Investigators in a 3-player game 2 actions per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scale the number of tokens required for an event to keep the number of actions between events the same for a given number of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have decided that the &quot;2 movements and one action&quot; structure of the Investigator turn is too integral to mess with. So I am thinking of doubling the number of &quot;clock ticks&quot; between events for my next game - I'll almost &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; have 2 Investigators playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has anyone else encountered this problem? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have you solved it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your solution satisfactory?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T18:58:28.617" Title="2 Investigators in Mansions of Madness" Tags="|house-rules|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2730" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:13:38.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules of the game they have a clarification which specifies this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player makes a choice on a&#xA;  Crisis Card, he can always choose the&#xA;  top or bottom section of the card,&#xA;  regardless of whether he will be able&#xA;  to fulfill the game text listed&#xA;  (unless the card specifically&#xA;  restricts this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason here is that this happens. Without an option, if you were forced to discard 3 cards and only had 2 it is obvious what would occur. The choice makes this issue confusing, which is why the rules have a specific clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of those rare &quot;good&quot; things for the humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T19:30:18.470" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T19:30:18.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="818" CreationDate="2011-03-25T20:40:47.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if anyone has actually used math to calculate the optimal strategy. That would of course require the correct play strategy for the camera strategy to really be the &quot;optimal&quot;. This person has a thorough explanation of a strategy including the why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/598248/pretty-hard-to-beat-4-player-setup&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/598248/pretty-hard-to-beat-4-player-setup&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2011-03-25T20:40:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3004" CreationDate="2011-03-26T08:44:41.800" Score="3" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I play the board game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30380/cuba&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cuba&lt;/a&gt; for the first time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the rules that we could not quite figure out from the rule book, was how the ships moved down the shipyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at the beginning of the game, there are two ships, one in position 1 and one in position 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the round, the rules state that the ships must move down one space (and then repeat until all spaces are filled). However, it only mentions a ship leaving the shipyard if a ship becomes full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if a ship is already in position 3 (the final position) and not full, does it stay where it is, or does the move down one position move it off the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played it so that it stays, because it did not explicitly say to remove the ship, but I am not sure if this was the correct or not. I think the two parts of the rule can be interpreted to mean one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T17:21:18.877" Title="Cuba Ship Movement" Tags="|cuba|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3003" CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:21:18.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that the ships leave the harbour (i.e. move off the board), due to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The end of the 2nd to 5th round is &#xA;  different from the end of the 1st&#xA;  round only in one way: there is a ship&#xA;  in the  3rd dock in the harbor; it&#xA;  leaves the  harbor, regardless of its&#xA;  load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first round, you have ships only on position 1 and position 2, so there is no way for one of them to leave the harbour.  As of the second round, you can have a ship in position 3, at which point this rule kicks in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T17:21:18.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2011-03-26T17:59:29.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite a few, actually, have had such a &amp;quot;Look at it and rate it&amp;quot; approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Early Warhammer games&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first edition of Warhammer 40K (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11106/warhammer-40000-rogue-trader&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Warhammer 40K: Rogue Trader&lt;/a&gt;), and the first several editions of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4192/warhammer-fantasy-battle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Warhammer Fantasy Battles&lt;/a&gt;, were all intended to use any minis, and had extensive minis rating lists by base type, weapon, and profile value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40KRT vehicles were points-costed by their ratings; the rating system wasn't terribly effective at play balance, but it was workable within reason, and especially for man-sized units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Ground Zero Games' games&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GZG's rules are intended for use with both their lines and others' lines of minis. Better still, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fmaskirmish.com/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=category&amp;amp;sectionid=9&amp;amp;id=29&amp;amp;Itemid=50&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can get them in PDF for free direct from GZG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dirtside II is vehicle or squad per mini, platoon scaled, up to battalion level. It includes vehicle design rules that border on being &amp;quot;Look and rate&amp;quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stargrunt II is tactical, squad level, individual man per mini, infantry combat, but it also can use Dirtside II vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full Thrust is space combat, one ship per mini. It can do fleet level play easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;R Talsorian Games' &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talsorian.com//talsorian/NEWWEBSITE/MektonPage.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mekton&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mekton has always been a combined battle game and RPG, and always had a design system capable of producing a wide range of designs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the design system is actually a design system, you might not always be able to get decent match to a given mini's fluff text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;7th Street Games' &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8131/mecha&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mecha&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system is able to use a variety of minis. The included setting is less flexible, being focused on space aztechs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dp9.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dream Pod 9&lt;/a&gt;'s whole catalogue&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;rating&amp;quot; system in both Heavy Gear and Jovian Chronicles is intended to take an extant mini or image, and allow you to devise game stats to fit, generating a relatively good point total for balance purposes. Other games in the line use the same ratings, so that means that any of them can be used. Several have both minis and RPG rules, and the minis rules are almost all written for hex-grids but easily adapted to gridless play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Flashpoint!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17089/flashpoint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flashpoint!&lt;/a&gt; is a wonderful minis wargame, using a mostly 1d20 rolls, printed in landscape mode in the 90's, of skirmish scale combat in a near-future sci-fi setting.  1 Character/vehicle/robot per model, typically individual model maneuver scale, and intended for platoon level and below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many elements border between a rating system and a design system, especially robots and vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Old FASA games&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4977/vor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;VOR&lt;/a&gt; is very similar to early WH40K:RT... except using d10's rather than d6's, and having a less-obviously Traveller/Cthulhu mashup setting. The rating system is very similar to that in 40K:RT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And onto the less close fit to the question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catalystgamelabs.com/battletech/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battletech&lt;/a&gt;, while having a design system rather than a rating system, has rules for mecha, vehicles, and troops, and multiple games in various scales, so you can use pretty much almost your entire collection somewhere... and it's still in print, from Catalyst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/6896/renegade-legion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Renegade Legion&lt;/a&gt; is very much the same approach as Battletech, but is a different set of combat mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-03-26T17:59:29.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3079" CreationDate="2011-03-26T21:14:53.323" Score="8" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has never been clear where the entrances in to and out of buildings are from roads. Some are obvious when there is only a single road segment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtQ7M.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TtQ7M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Police Station Zombies!!! board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others are multi-square builds along side a multi-square road (e.g. the gas station). Some like the army surplus store has an obvious door way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C66IF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C66IF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Army Surplus Zombies!!! board&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But others are less obvious, like the hardware store with fenced parking lots, the toy store with non-obvious doorways, etc. Which road segments can the building be entered from? I could not find details on this in the rules or the Zombies FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like the density of the bright white border lines contains a clue, but nothing seemed to make sense there either. For example, the starting tile (above) has bright lines between the road segments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1088" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T02:36:39.960" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:36:39.960" Title="Where are the building entrances in Zombies?" Tags="|zombies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="730" CreationDate="2011-03-27T11:52:57.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Outpost card has the text &quot;This can't cause you to take more than two consecutive turns&quot; on it. I thought this would mean that the player who had been possessed would not take another turn after the outpost turn, but apparently (according to isotropic) it does not, even though that player takes three consecutive turns, one when he is possessed, one from the Outpost and one normal one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1099" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T11:52:57.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3009" CreationDate="2011-03-27T17:57:41.627" Score="7" ViewCount="4161" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Magic a long time ago, and I remember activated abilities on creatures were considered instants. Reading through the rules today, it isn't quite clear to me. The reason I am wondering is for the combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205231&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prodigal Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fire Servant&lt;/a&gt;. The does the Fire Servant's doubling apply to the Prodigal Pyromancer's &quot;{T}: Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:53:59.270" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:53:59.270" Title="Are creature effects considered an Instant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3008" CreationDate="2011-03-27T19:11:37.060" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the doubling does not apply. Creature abilities &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; fast effects, a class which includes instants. But instants, like sorceries, are a distinct spell type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-03-27T19:11:37.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2702" CreationDate="2011-03-28T04:06:11.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played both San Juan and RFtG, but only about half a game of Puerto Rico. RFtG is definitely WAY more complicated than San Juan, and you have to keep track of a lot of symbology. One of the things that is definitely unique to RFtG in the group is the simultaneous role selection mechanic. In PR and SJ, players choose their role for the turn in sequence, roles may only be chosen once per round, and the player to choose a role first in the round rotates every round. In RFtG the players each choose the equivalent of a role at the same time, and phase actions are performed by all players simultaneously, with the rare exception of drawing cards when the draw pile is running out. There's not much of a concept of turn rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T04:06:11.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3037" CreationDate="2011-03-28T06:42:56.283" Score="15" ViewCount="1466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the German version of the game so the card may be named differently in the original or might not exist at all. The card &quot;Versicherungsvertreter&quot; says under &quot;bad things&quot; that you lose items worth at least 1000 gold. If you don't have that much then you lose everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it mean by &quot;lose everything&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose all your items carried and still in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose all your items and your entire hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose every card in your possession&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose every card and all your levels&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T12:26:46.427" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T15:58:53.810" Title="Munchkin &quot;Insurance Rep&quot; bad things" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3012" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:21:25.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T13:21:25.767" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T13:21:25.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3013" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:21:25.767" Score="0" Body="The sheriff and his deputies are trying to kill the outlaws, the outlaws are trying to kill the sheriff, and the renegade is trying to be the last one standing. But no one knows who the other players are..." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T14:51:23.367" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T14:51:23.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3014" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:22:20.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please do not use this tag, it has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/911/meta-tags-r-us&quot;&gt;deprecated&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are slowly removing this tag from older questions over time.  Feel free to edit this tag out of older questions that are on the front page, or from a small number(&amp;lt;5/day) of questions not on the front page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:15:42.367" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:15:42.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3015" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:22:20.213" Score="0" Body="Please do not use this tag, it has been deprecated." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:15:42.367" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:15:42.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3016" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:32:27.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fifth installment in the immensely popular &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; series. Prosperity adds 25 new kingdom cards, as well as the Colony (victory) and Platinum (treasure) cards. These can increase the play time (as well as the scores). The theme is big money and big actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Prosperity rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_361_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:53:23.077" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:53:23.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3017" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:32:27.367" Score="0" Body="The 5th Dominion expansion, built around the theme of big money and big actions." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T15:08:24.797" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T15:08:24.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3018" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:34:36.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is made more varied by the fact that races and special powers are dealt from separate decks - you might find yourself with Flying Ghouls in one game and Diplomat Ghouls in another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player can  play more than one race in the course of the game. One of the most critical decisions facing a player is when to put a race into decline and start a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Website&lt;/a&gt; at Days of Wonder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/content/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; at Days of Wonder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many expansions available, some have tags here at Board and Card Games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/small-world-underground&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'small-world-underground'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;small-world-underground&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/vinci&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'vinci'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;vinci&lt;/a&gt;, which this game re-implements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:06:19.570" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:06:19.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3019" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:34:36.833" Score="0" Body="A conquer-the-world game set in a fantasy realm. Players must take control of various different races and use their special abilities to dominate their opponents." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T17:49:33.560" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T17:49:33.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3020" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:37:14.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fully cooperative, each game is self-contained, so no need to bring character sheets around to track all of your stats from game to game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For compatible boardgames see &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dnd-adventure-system&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dnd-adventure-system'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dnd-adventure-system&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:42:32.650" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:42:32.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3021" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:37:14.647" Score="0" Body="A lighter version of Dungeons &amp; Dragons that offers the thrill of role-playing without most of the complex rules and time requirements." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T14:52:21.850" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T14:52:21.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3022" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:39:32.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3rd installment in the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; series. Players can now use duration cards to set up their next turn, as well as powerful new attacks to hinder their opponents. It also introduces cards allowing you to set cards from your deck aside only to return later. Seaside adds 26 new kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Seaside rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:54:43.190" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:54:43.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3023" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:39:32.337" Score="0" Body="The 3rd Dominion expansion introduces duration cards that do something immediately, but stay in play to affect your next turn as well." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T06:16:33.790" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T06:16:33.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3024" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:45:54.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4th installment in the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; series. Players must balance their money with the new potion treasure card to buy new cards that help them manipulate their deck and create powerful action chains. Alchemy is a &quot;small expansion&quot;, adding only 12 new kingdom cards as well as the Potion treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Alchemy rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_356_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:53:40.107" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:53:40.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3025" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:45:54.110" Score="0" Body="The 4th Dominion expansion, themed around transformation and the new potion treasure card." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T06:15:07.333" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T06:15:07.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3026" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:47:23.670" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T13:47:23.670" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T13:47:23.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3027" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:47:23.670" Score="0" Body="A classic game where players roll dice to move around a board. Players buy properties, charge rent, and upgrade their assets to try to bankrupt other players and own everything on the board." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T17:49:12.513" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T17:49:12.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3028" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:49:14.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players are secretly assigned the role of werewolf, townsperson, or seer.  One player acts as narrator.  During the night-time phase of each turn, all players close their eyes and make noise (such as drumming hands on the table) to mask what follows.  The narrator tells the werewolves (usually two) to open their eyes; they gesture between themselves to choose one townsperson to kill.  They then close their eyes, and the narrator has the seer open his eyes.  The seer points to one other player, trying to identify a werewolf, and the narrator gives a thumbs-up or thumbs-down.  The night phase now ends.  During the day, all players open their eyes and the narrator announces the death.  That player is now out of the game.  The remaining players collectively decide on one of their number to lynch as a suspected werewolf.  (Of course the werewolves are passing themselves off as regular townspeople.)  The game continues until either all werewolves or all townspeople are dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with One Night Ultimate Werewolf(&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/one-night-werewolf&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;one-night-werewolf&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;one-night-werewolf&lt;/a&gt;) a similar game that takes place in only one round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T20:51:50.233" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T20:51:50.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3029" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:49:14.620" Score="0" Body="A social game that can support large numbers of players. The villagers try to destroy the werewolves before they kill the entire village, but no one knows whose who...  Also called Mafia. Not to be confused with One Night Ultimate Werewolf, a one round version of the game." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T20:52:12.610" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T20:52:12.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3030" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:51:22.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Fluxx tag should be used on all Fluxx games, because they're so similar.  This includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cthulhu Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oz Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Star Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pirate Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zombie Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monty Python Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Martian Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Family Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eco Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoner Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regular Show Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monster Fluxx (Target Exclusive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are small variations between the versions of Fluxx (some have Creepers and others don't; only Cthulhu has the Doom Count), but they are quite small, so we only have one tag for this family of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T23:56:29.947" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T23:56:29.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3031" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:51:22.840" Score="0" Body="A card game where the rules change as you play, and there isn't a goal until someone plays one. The goal changes just as often as the rules do, but most goals revolve around collecting particular &quot;Keepers.&quot;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T19:47:15.433" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T19:47:15.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3032" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:52:10.920" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T13:52:10.920" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T13:52:10.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3033" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:52:10.920" Score="0" Body="A classic word-game where players try to use their tiles to create long and exotic words to earn the most points." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-28T17:49:21.280" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T17:49:21.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3034" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:53:19.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first expansion to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;em&gt;Catan: Seafarers&lt;/em&gt; is not a stand-alone game, but supplements &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; with additional board pieces (more resource hexes, ocean hexes, frames), tokens (ships and the pirate), and instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The essential difference in game play between &lt;em&gt;Seafarers&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; is the addition of shipping routes -- one segment is purchased with one wood and one wool -- allowing expansion onto other islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Seafarers&lt;/em&gt; comes with rules and instructions for a variety of game scenarios. Whenever applicable, the rules of &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; apply in &lt;em&gt;Seafarers&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag should be reserved for questions about rules and situations that are specific to &lt;em&gt;Seafarers&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:47:53.883" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:47:53.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3035" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T13:53:19.110" Score="0" Body="The first expansion to Catan. Players can now build ships to expand their horizons and take on whatever new challenges may await them across the sea..." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:48:31.973" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:48:31.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3011" CreationDate="2011-03-28T14:19:45.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have my copy of Munchkin on me, but I'm pretty sure it means lose all the items you are carrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2011-03-28T14:19:45.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3011" CreationDate="2011-03-28T15:40:35.913" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Items in your hand are safe from game effects unless explicitly targeted by the card description. I can't reach the rules from here, but that's made pretty clear - in the English rules, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer would be: &lt;strong&gt;Lose all items currently in your character's possession, whether equipped or merely carried.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only &lt;strong&gt;items&lt;/strong&gt; should be lost in this case - the character's class and race should be safe from the insurance industry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T15:58:53.810" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T15:58:53.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2999" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:26:50.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Multiple Investigators&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my last 2-Investigator game, I was explaining this issue to one of the players and proposed the &quot;scale the time between events solution.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She said, &quot;Why don't we just each run two adventurers?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why didn't I think of that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that from now on, MoM will be a 4-investigator game, with players running enough investigators to make up the difference. It works great in &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dungeon-lords&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dungeon-lords'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dungeon-lords&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: There are additional benefits to this solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scaling the time would drastically reduce the sense of urgency in MoM. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not only the number of actions but the reduced breadth of abilities is unaccounted for in a fewer-than-four-Investigators game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is decidedly my preferred way to play the game now. I would only consider less than four Investigators as a way to bump the difficulty for players that consistently win too easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T18:58:28.617" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T18:58:28.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3039" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:29:57.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mansions of Madness is a boardgame from Fantasy Flight Games set in the same Cthulhu Mythos universe as Arkham Horror. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'arkham-horror'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkham-horror&lt;/a&gt;, it is an asymmetrical game in which one player takes the antagonist role of Keeper and the others take the protagonist roles of Investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T03:12:36.090" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T03:12:36.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3040" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-28T20:29:57.567" Score="0" Body="Mansions of Madness is a boardgame from Fantasy Flight Games set in the same Cthulhu Mythos universe as Arkham Horror. " OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T03:12:36.090" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T03:12:36.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3041" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:21:14.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player has a set of Tetris like shapes ranging in size from 1 square to 5 squares. Turn after turn players place a shape on the board so it connects to their own pieces only via corners. The last player that is able to place one of his pieces wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T14:37:05.237" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:37:05.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3042" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:21:14.573" Score="0" Body="A strategic abstract boardgame for 1 to 4 players where they place Tetris like shapes on a square board and try to cut each other off." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T14:37:07.827" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:37:07.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3043" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:31:14.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cluedo (Clue, in North America, 3-6 people, 45 minutes) players assume the roles of detectives and try to solve a recent murder by identifying the murderer, the site of the crime and the weapon used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player holds a set of evidence pieces proving which suspects, locations and weapons where &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; involved in the crime. Through careful questioning of the competing detectives they must discover which pieces of evidence are held by others and deduct the real particulars of the crime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T09:46:45.473" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T09:46:45.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3044" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:31:14.173" Score="0" Body="Cluedo (or Clue) is a deduction game for 3 to 6 detectives who race to solve a murder. (45-minute playtime)" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T09:47:25.970" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T09:47:25.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3045" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:41:41.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Munchkin is a light hearted card game for 3 to 6 players parodying traditional role playing games. Players fight monsters to obtain valuable items and gain levels. While in the beginning players will benefit from helping each other out, towards the end everyone will back stab the leading player(s) with curses, tough monsters and other nasty things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/munchkin-quest&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'munchkin-quest'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;munchkin-quest&lt;/a&gt; - A standalone boardgame with similar themes, but is not compatible with Munchkin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:34:16.547" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:34:16.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3046" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-29T07:41:41.793" Score="0" Body="A light hearted card game for 3 to 6 players about fighting monsters, collecting loot and being the first to ascend to level 10." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T14:37:45.830" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:37:45.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3047" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:08:58.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of the 2 to 4 players has to deliver four sacrifice tokens to the temple. But in order to do that they need enough mana gathered from praying sites and they also first need to produce their tokens by building new huts. So players need to gather wood or stone and transport them with their workers to suitable places for building huts and praying sites. They can also breed new workers or go steal resources from other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every player gets 5 action points per round, which have to be carefully spend in order to be the first to deliver all your tokens and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T14:37:32.397" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:37:32.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3048" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:08:58.637" Score="0" Body="A boardgame for 2 to 4 players about exploring, gathering resources, expanding your clan and eventually being the first to deliver all four sacrifices to the temple." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T14:37:35.207" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T14:37:35.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3088" CreationDate="2011-03-29T08:20:31.993" Score="11" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Hold 'Em for a while, and I've considered a variety of different strategies.  However, one thing that's always left me a little baffled is &quot;donk&quot; betting.  Rather, betting into the pre-flop raiser on the flop (before he/she had the chance to bet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the purpose of this play?  When might be a good time to &quot;donk&quot; bet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This play seems to have a bad reputation, but what is so bad about it?  Rather, how do bad players misuse the &quot;donk&quot; bet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1102" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-11T00:19:37.750" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T13:53:24.663" Title="Donk betting in No Limit Hold 'Em" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2990" CreationDate="2011-03-29T11:07:18.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to work for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aardman.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aardman&lt;/a&gt;, the creators of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aardman.com/tv-shorts/our-properties/shaun-the-sheep-series-1-and-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shaun the Sheep&lt;/a&gt;. The following comes straight from the lovely ladies in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aardman.com/rights/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rights &amp;amp; Licensing department&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The games are a German design and&#xA;  license, they don't exist in English&#xA;  speaking markets, so only German&#xA;  language instructions I'm afraid.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be worth trying &lt;a href=&quot;http://translate.google.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Translate&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T11:07:18.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2966" CreationDate="2011-03-29T13:45:06.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are worried about the bits and pieces floating around inside the box, definitely go with plastic bags or a small craft organizer. Box inserts are designed for flat storage, and components can often float around insider the box if it is tipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games have more of a gap between the roof of the box and the top of the divider than others (see Castle Ravenloft/Wrath of Ashardalon). For these, you need to repack your components. It won't solve the issue of preventing some oddly shaped boxes from opening up on their sides, but at least the pieces won't get mixed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T13:45:06.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3052" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-29T22:54:49.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T22:54:49.173" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T22:54:49.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3053" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-29T22:54:49.173" Score="0" Body="Dungeon Lords is a worker-placement game by Vlaada Chvatil. In each of two &quot;years,&quot; the players will build a dungeon, stocking it with traps and monsters. Then they'll defend it from interloping adventurers." OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-03-29T22:58:40.557" LastActivityDate="2011-03-29T22:58:40.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3055" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:08:01.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Asking Questions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When asking questions about Bridge, please provide the exact cards and distribution for the hands of interest as best you can recall them. Where you know the value of spot cards, please specify them rather than simply entering them as x's; every x you specify will be treated as a deuce, so anything more specific than that will be an improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For play problems the precise spots will often be critical; the order in which experts play their spot cards in a suit is used to signal distribution of the hand, count in the suit, attitude to the suit, and suit preference. Without this information, which was available at the table, we cannot give you the best advice possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also important is the vulnerability of both sides, who the dealer was and the type of scoring (Rubber, Chicago, Matchpoints, IMPs, or Board-a-Match); all of these affect the decisions made at the table, and sometimes even the conventions in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, even for play and defense problems, please describe the overall bidding approach used by both you and the opponents, and any relevant conventional agreements. In the absence of any specific description the following will be assumed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Assumed Conventional Treatments&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four-Card Majors &lt;em&gt;approach-forcing&lt;/em&gt; style (Goren/Culbertson/ACOL)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stayman&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard Blackwood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gerber &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; as a jump to 4C directly over a natural NT bid &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jacoby &amp;amp; Texas Transfers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong NT (15-17)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong 2C opening with 2D waiting; Cheapest Minor as Second Negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;disciplined Weak Twos&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard leads and signals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you specify your System Approach as Five-Card Majors we will also assume, unless specified otherwise, that you are playing Two-Over-One (almost) Game Force, and Forcing 1NT response to a major-suit opening. It really is not possible to play that approach adequately without both those corollaries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Game&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge is a 4 player trick-taking game using a standard deck of 52 playing cards. Two partnerships compete against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For purposes of scoring and reference, each player is identified by one of the points of the compass and thus North and South play against East and West. Each deal progresses through four phases: dealing the cards, the auction (bidding), playing the hand, and scoring the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dealing:&lt;/strong&gt; Cards are dealt clockwise, one at a time and face down starting on the dealer's left so that each player receives thirteen cards. In duplicate bridge the dealer is predetermined by the board. The board also contains the four hands which have been dealt and placed in the board prior to commencement of the game; these hands are not redealt over the course of the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Auction or Bidding:&lt;/strong&gt; The bidding starts with the dealer and rotates around the table clockwise with each player making a call, the purpose being to determine which partnership will contract to take more tricks given a particular trump suit or with no trump. The partnership which makes the highest final bid is known as the declaring side and is said to have 'won' the contract. The player on the declaring side who, during the auction, first stated the suit ultimately becoming trumps (or first stated notrump if that is the final strain) is referred to as the declarer.  The purpose of bidding is for each partnership to ascertain which contract, whether made or defeated and whether bid by them or by their opponents, would give the partnership their best scoring result. Bidding is complex, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6267/why-are-beginning-to-intermediate-bridge-players-told-to-delay-learning-how-to-b&quot;&gt;beginners are encouraged to first master simple, commonly used bidding conventions&lt;/a&gt; before adding greater complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing:&lt;/strong&gt; Bridge is similar to other trick-taking games with the additional feature that the hand of declarer's partner is displayed face up on the table after the opening lead has been made by the member of the defending side to the left of declarer; the displayed hand is referred to as the dummy and is played by declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring:&lt;/strong&gt; After all thirteen tricks have been played, the hand's score is determined by comparing actual versus contracted tricks and awarding points accordingly. The available scoring points for the declaring side are dependent upon both the level and strain of the contract and are awarded to them only when the contract is 'made', i.e. at least the contracted for number of tricks are won by them; failure to do so results in the defending side's receiving points instead, and they are said to have 'defeated' the contract. Individual scores of several hands are accumulated to determine the overall game score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge has a number of variants, the most common being &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/rubber-bridge&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;rubber-bridge&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;rubber-bridge&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/duplicate-bridge&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;duplicate-bridge&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;duplicate-bridge&lt;/a&gt;. The method for calculating scores is different depending on which variant is being played, and this impacts the strategy of both the bidding and the play of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T17:06:20.323" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:06:20.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3056" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:08:01.787" Score="0" Body="A 4 player trick-taking card game where opposing partners try to either take the number of tricks they bid or prevent their opponents from doing so.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;When asking questions on bidding or play, please specify scoring system (Rubber, Matchpoints, IMPS, ec.), Dealer, vulnerability for both sides, full auction to the point of inquiry, and as complete a description of the visible hands as you can, including spot cards instead of x's." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T19:27:12.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:27:12.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3057" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:09:56.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan&lt;/a&gt; that lets players improve their cities, create new commodities, and use their newly empowered knights to conquer the island of Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:48:18.170" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:48:18.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3058" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:09:56.700" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Catan that lets players improve their cities, create new commodities, and use their newly empowered knights to conquer the island of Catan." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:48:25.800" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:48:25.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3059" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:11:46.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This game does not use settlers, shipping, or money.  Buildings and plantations are operational as soon as they are played.  Cards have a cost to play, which is measured in cards to be discarded.  Sold goods are paid for in cards, and there are other ways to gain more cards too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/puerto-rico&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'puerto-rico'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;puerto-rico&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T02:08:13.370" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T02:08:13.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3060" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:11:46.620" Score="0" Body="Puerto Rico's card-driven little brother. Players choose from various roles to try to create the most impressive buildings in the city of San-Juan.  This game is shorter than Puerto Rico, playing in about 30 minutes." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T02:08:05.507" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T02:08:05.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3061" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:12:26.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rummy is a family of card games for a flexible number of players. The central goal to all variations is to get rid of all hand cards by melding them into sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games of this family that have their own tags:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/canasta&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;canasta&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;canasta&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/gin&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;gin&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;gin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/indian-rummy&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;indian-rummy&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;indian-rummy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-01-01T19:57:35.993" LastActivityDate="2021-01-01T19:57:35.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3062" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:12:26.713" Score="0" Body="Players race to get rid of all their cards by 'melding' groups that are all of the same rank, or of consecutive ranks in the same suit." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T06:30:30.110" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T06:30:30.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3063" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:14:16.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;About:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh&lt;/em&gt; is a Trading Card Game launched by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konami&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Konami&lt;/a&gt; in the year 1999. It is based on the manga by Kazuki Takahashi from 1996. It is meant to be a simulation of what really happens in a &quot;duel&quot; in &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh&lt;/em&gt; . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Aim:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To defeat their opponent by either of the three victory conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Number of players: 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Equipment:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something to record your Life Points with&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19332" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2018-02-09T19:03:32.733" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T19:03:32.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3064" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:14:16.417" Score="0" Body="A trading card game where players summon Monsters and activate Spells and Traps to deplete their opponent's Life Points. The game has a strong fantasy theme, and is usually played with 2 players, although it has been adapted to work with more. It has no direct resource system, but utilizes face-down cards in play. It is based on the Japanese anime &quot;Yu-Gi-Oh!&quot;&#xD;&#xA;." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="19332" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T10:12:14.663" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T10:12:14.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3065" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:15:31.267" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T01:15:31.267" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T01:15:31.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3066" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:15:31.267" Score="0" Body="An expansion to Bohnanza that lets players create new buildings to enhance the efficiency of their bean-farms." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T15:35:56.583" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T15:35:56.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3067" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:17:05.650" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T01:17:05.650" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T01:17:05.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3068" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:17:05.650" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Pandemic that adds new challenges like mutating diseases and one player becoming a bio-terrorist. Also allows for play with 5 people." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T01:22:46.750" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T01:22:46.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3069" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:18:52.167" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T01:18:52.167" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T01:18:52.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3070" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-03-30T01:18:52.167" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game where 2-4 players try to escape a mysterious island after saving its four treasures. But the island sinks deeper with every step the adventurers take...  Playtime: 30 minutes." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T18:42:32.557" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T18:42:32.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3071" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:40:01.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Gin rummy players are dealt less cards and also have less restrictions on acquiring cards and finishing than in other variations of rummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T15:35:53.133" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T15:35:53.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3072" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:40:01.707" Score="0" Body="A fast variation of rummy for 2 players." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T15:35:54.833" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T15:35:54.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3073" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:44:34.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although variations exist for a variety of player numbers the game is usually played 2 vs 2 or simply just with 2 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike many rummy variations the players cannot expand on their opponents melds and only melds with cards of equal rank are allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T15:35:46.300" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T15:35:46.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3074" PostTypeId="3" CreationDate="2011-03-30T06:44:34.607" Score="0" Body="A rummy variation usually played with two teams of two." OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-03-30T15:35:48.173" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T15:35:48.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3078" CreationDate="2011-03-30T15:06:33.327" Score="13" ViewCount="2430" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other night we had Slab the Killer in play as well as Jourdonnais. Here are their abilities as listed on the cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jourdonnais&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever he is the target of a BANG!, he may &quot;draw!&quot; : on a Heart, he is missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slab the Killer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Player needs 2 Missed! cards to cancel his BANG! card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Slab the Killer plays a BANG! against Jourdonnais, how is Jourdonnais's ability applied? Obviously if his ability is unsuccessful, 2 Missed! cards would have to be played, but what happens if Jourdonnais successfully draws a Heart? Is the entire attack cancelled out? Or will an additional Missed! card still need to be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T20:59:15.737" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T22:46:01.580" Title="Does Jourdonnais's ability negate all or half of Slab the Killer's attack on a successful draw?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2011-03-30T19:18:59.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Man, that's a good question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offhand from the phrasing you pasted I would say that Jourdonnais wins out here - his ability does not say &quot;on a Heart, he is 'Missed!'&quot;, it just says &quot;he is missed.&quot;  That would seem to be completely unrelated to the playing of Missed! cards, which is the only thing mentioned for Slab the Killer's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it might be unbalanced (although the odds of a Heart are only roughly 1/4), but I think I would personally interpret this that a successful &quot;draw&quot; by Jourdonnais will cause even Slab to miss him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T19:18:59.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2011-03-30T20:50:33.727" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jourdonnais' ability is essentially a built in barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another Missed! card is needed&lt;/strong&gt; in addition to drawing the Heart to avoid Slab the Killer's BANG!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was answered by the designer, Emiliano Sciarra on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/24805&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Even if the effect of the Barrel triggers by drawing a Heart card from the deck, you will need another Missed! card from the hand to avoid the hit from Slab.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Jourdonnais has a Barrel built in, he may &amp;quot;draw!&amp;quot; once to see if he plays an automatic Missed!. After that, if he drew a Heart he will need a real Missed! from his hand to dodge Slab's shot. Otherwise, he will need two Missed! cards, as anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-03-30T20:50:33.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3006" CreationDate="2011-03-31T18:29:24.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the only available answer may be: that there is no certain answer, but the building entrances should be located by player agreement, based on the application of some degree of common sense to the visual appearance of the tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't own Zombies, but I remember when I played it I thought it was definitely a &quot;fast and loose&quot; style of game design, rather than having the sort of very precise, loophole-closing ruleset that I personally prefer.  Bad news for us obsessive-compulsive rules lawyers, in other words!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-03-31T18:29:24.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3080" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:57:25.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions about how to modify or adjust game play to accommodate more than the recommended number of players. This tag also covers games designed for large (8+) numbers of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T01:32:37.477" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T01:32:37.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3081" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-01T00:57:25.457" Score="0" Body="Questions about how to modify or adjust game play to accommodate more than the recommended number of players. " OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T01:32:40.427" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T01:32:40.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3082" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-01T01:04:18.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games designed to be played by a single person or methods for modifying multi-player games for single-person play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T01:32:43.407" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T01:32:43.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3083" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-01T01:04:18.230" Score="0" Body="Games designed to be played by a single person or methods for modifying multi-player games for single-person play. " OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T01:32:46.010" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T01:32:46.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3049" CreationDate="2011-04-01T03:58:37.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try never to do this myself, and I push back extremely hard against people who do it to me. Most frequently, it seems to happen when my opponents have a hand slightly worse than top pair (or top pair with a weak kicker), or...more often are on a draw. So, instead of checking and letting me bet big, they make a smaller bet than I would have made, hoping I would be scared of raising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this will work against some people, but not against others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's good to use if your opponents let you get away with it (and you can make it to the river with your draw for cheap), but bad against experienced opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually call this a block bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T03:58:37.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3098" CreationDate="2011-04-01T07:22:31.663" Score="22" ViewCount="1843" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing a bit of Puerto Rico against computers (AIs) lately. I'm doing quite well against the easier AIs so I think my overall gameplay isn't so bad but I've realized that I still have problems evaluating some situations from a tactical point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Captain and Trader&lt;/em&gt; do not offer much choice so their direct effects are quite easy to predict. Still I find that I rarely consider what's beyond the Trader or Captain. &lt;strong&gt;Is that a mistake? What should I look for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mayor and Craftsman&lt;/em&gt; are relatively straightforward too. Mayor often leads to Craftsman and Craftsman generally results in Trader and/or Captain. So my thinking is: &quot;Do I benefit from Craftsman enough if I pick Mayor now?&quot; and &quot;Do I get to ship/trade enough if I pick Craftsman now?&quot; &lt;strong&gt;I don't think it is feasible to think much further but I welcome suggestions...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Settler and Builder&lt;/em&gt; are more difficult for me however. They are the most unpredictable element of the game IMO. I usually just think if I need/want a building or plantation and if there's nothing more pressing among the other options then I just go for it. &lt;strong&gt;What should I look for when evaluating the benefits of these roles?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course with enough time you could thoroughly evaluate every option for your own move and the next one but that would quickly lead to analysis-paralysis. So what can be done in reasonable amounts of time? Are there any kinds of tools to help in training this, aside from playing full games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T16:30:02.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T00:31:34.867" Title="Evaluating tactical situations in Puerto Rico" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3085" CreationDate="2011-04-01T15:22:19.703" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Captain&lt;/strong&gt; is often a tool used in the beginning to have someone have to ship their valuable resource, so that they can't trade it.  It's why you don't want to just go and produce one valuable resource, because if you can't protect it with other goods, then it will become shipbound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trader&lt;/strong&gt; get's pulled sometimes because it has money on it and you want to deprive the guy who can really use it, the extra cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mayor&lt;/strong&gt; you'd generally pull if you need men and nothing else is pressing.  I like to pull it more when it's unbalanced, so there's more colonist profit relative to the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settler&lt;/strong&gt; is the best first pull, to get a quarry going early.  After that it's more strategy dependent.  The first two quarries you have are the most valuable, with value declining as you get more.  Settler of course is a really good pull with a &lt;em&gt;hacienda&lt;/em&gt; strategy, since when you pull quarries you still get a plantation, and once you've filled up your island you can take the man off of the &lt;em&gt;hacienda&lt;/em&gt; and put him somewhere else useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Builder&lt;/strong&gt; is usually just based on having enough to buy the building you need next, though sometimes you pull it to deprive someone else of getting the big building that they're only one doubloon away from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Craftsman&lt;/strong&gt; is the crux of the game, and &lt;strong&gt;Craftsman fear&lt;/strong&gt; the biggest factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to read this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/13812/the-039best039-puerto-rico-strategy-startegy-amp&quot;&gt;great strategy guide&lt;/a&gt;.  It's the best one I've ever seen, and it's principles actually apply to a lot of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-04-01T15:34:06.790" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T15:34:06.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3085" CreationDate="2011-04-01T17:50:37.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not expert, but the biggest thing I've found with choosing roles is to &lt;strong&gt;figure out the consequences of other people choosing them and you not getting them&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Captain:&lt;/strong&gt; Look at what goods everyone has and who will benefit most from picking it. If you forgo the captain and the next person takes it, how large will the change in your victory points be? If you're both sitting on 5 barrels of corn, you want to make sure you load first, because otherwise you probably won't get to load much and may even face heavy spoilage. Like Mr. Roberts said, also look at forcing other players to ship goods they'd rather trade, like coffee and tobacco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trader:&lt;/strong&gt; Look at who has what to sell. If you can get some nice cash by selling tobacco or coffee AND screw over anyone else who might want to sell that too, then this is probably a good choice. (presuming they don't have an office, in which case it won't make a difference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mayor&lt;/strong&gt;: Look at how many colonists the picker of the mayor gets vs. everybody else. If the number of colonists on the colonist ship is the same as the number of players, picking the mayor will give you only a 1 colonist bonus over everyone else. If there's more, you may be looking at a 2 colonist bonus over the player to your right, making it more attractive for you. Also consider what things are on your island you want to get into operation as soon as possible so you can use them in the appropriate phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Craftsman&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Builder&lt;/strong&gt;: Unless there's a shortage of goods or desirable buildings, I often try to make other people pick these as the bonus for doing so is fairly small. Getting goods or buildings doesn't matter much, usually what's important is who gets to &lt;em&gt;use them&lt;/em&gt;, which involves picking other roles. Are you setting up the next person for an amazing captain or trader phase by producing now? Can you earn the 1 doubloon bonus from picking the builder some other way? As I said, if you really need the advantage of producing first or building first, that changes things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settler&lt;/strong&gt;: Look at the available plantations and who would get what. If you really want one of the plantations and there's only one of it, chances are you won't get it if you don't pick settler yourself. If you don't plan on building a construction hut and want some quarries (which are always awesome to have), the only way you're going to get them is if you pick the settlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are a few other factors that come into play, the biggest being the amount of doubloon on each different role, but I think its affects are pretty self-explanatory, with the same ideas of trying to get the best advantage possible while denying other players the optimal choices. Number of players, buildings and plantations on your and other players' islands, position of the governor marker, number of each plantation and building left in the supply, and time 'til endgame all come into play as well, but to keep this post from getting to long I'll omit those for now. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So what can be done in reasonable amounts of time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If time is a constraint, just try not to think &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; deeply. Its very easy to spend 5 minutes analyzing every possible move and consequence as all hardcore PR players know. Just look at your options, figure out the pros and cons, keep your future turn simulations short, and try not to second and third guess yourself. When in doubt, go with your gut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any kind of tools to help training this aside from full games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not specifically for PR that I know of, but if you find anything I'd be very interested in hearing about it. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T15:22:13.083" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T15:22:13.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3049" CreationDate="2011-04-01T18:04:52.640" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How you should be thinking about donk bets when deciding whether to use them:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donk bets don't have an inherently set purpose.  You can do it as a bluff, you can donk bet for value, or you can do it to try to influence behavior (like a block bet).  What you're trying to obtain by doing it depends on your hand and your expected response from your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a thinking player, you shouldn't ever just check solely because the other player was the preflop aggressor.  Like any other decision you're faced with in poker, you should only be choosing to check if you believe that you will get more value from the hand by checking than from any of your alternatives.  Whether you believe this depends on your opponent.  For example, if you're holding a hand which is likely ahead, rationally choosing to check requires something like believing that your opponent will bluff continuation bet more often than they will call your donk bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific extreme examples: If you were playing against someone who does not bluff continuation bet on the flop, but had a strong tendency to call with weak hands, then you should donk bet every time you hit a decent hand on the flop, and rarely bluff them.  If you were playing against a person who rarely calls unless they have the nuts, yet bluffs all of the time, then you should check to them every time when you have a strong hand, and bluff donk bet them every time you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only are you sometimes missing value if you decide never to use donk bets; such a decision would be an exploitable aspect of your play.  It gives a larger advantage than is due to the preflop aggressor, as they can be confident that they know what at least one of your moves will be in a following betting round (you will check).  In particular, they can derive more value from raising preflop cards which are geared more toward drawing (e.g.: suited connectors like 7s 6s), because they know that they will usually be able to check behind he flop if they missed, so they actually get to see 4 board cards before being faced with any possible aggression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is it perceived as bad:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inexperienced players tend to make bad donk bets (bad independently of being donk bets), and commit extra money to the pot in situations where they're generally already at a disadvantage by being out of position, or where board cards suggest that their hand is not as strong relative to the preflop aggressors as they may think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some people perceive donk bets as sort of against poker etiquette.  They think that &quot;check to the raiser&quot; is the proper, gentlemanly thing to do.  This is more of a cultural thing, and has little to do with trying to play profitably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not inherently bad, and there are situations in which a donk bet is the optimal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How players misuse them:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players misuse donk bets the same way they misuse any other sort of bet.  They make their decision without considering likely hands their opponent is holding or their opponents tendencies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1115" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T18:04:52.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-04-01T22:02:14.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is resigning isn't a means to avoid losing, but a recognition that you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; lost - you just haven't finished going through the motions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two-player game, this should be fairly simple - you resign, opponent wins, you start another game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a team scenario (like Axis &amp;amp; Allies), the entire team should resign as a group - if a single player just packs up and leaves, the other team members should be allowed to fill in the blank spot. (Assuming they wish to continue the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer scenario, it really depends on how the interactivity works. Dominion can easily manage a disappearing player, but Settlers can't. Generally, I'd err on the side of allowing someone to bow out, especially if he knows he can't win, but the ultimate winner is still unknown. If it's fairly obvious that someone is going to win (or if it really doesn't matter who wins), I'd rather sweep and reset than force someone to suffer through the remainder of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-04-01T22:02:14.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3096" CreationDate="2011-04-02T02:24:46.757" Score="35" ViewCount="5826" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have 3 ore, 2 wheat, and a wood, and player B has a wheat, a wool, and a brick. Player B puts the robber next to one of my settlements and has to take one resource at random. Player B wants to get my wood so they can build a settlement, and I actually want them to take the wood so I can upgrade one of my settlements to the city. If they had to take a resource at random, they might get something else that would be sub-optimal for both of us. If I could just give them the wood, it would be to both of our advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the resource taken with the robber required to be random? If they want a specific resource and I want to give them that resource, can we just do that instead of player B having to pick randomly, possibly resulting in a situation that would hurt both of us, me by losing some I needed and them by not getting what they wanted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T14:53:03.497" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T14:53:03.497" Title="When I put the robber on someone in Settlers of Catan, does the resource I take HAVE to be random?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3090" CreationDate="2011-04-02T02:32:17.103" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the resource must be random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt; has one of the best &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/2-catan-boardgame/965-seven-and-robber-can-i-voluntarily-give-a-card-to-a-game-partner-instead-of-letting-him-draw-it.html&quot;&gt;online FAQ&lt;/a&gt;'s that I've seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Seven” and Robber - Can I voluntarily give a card to a game partner, instead of letting him draw it?&#xA;  Answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-04-02T06:41:10.083" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T06:41:10.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2011-04-02T02:37:59.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the great suggestions! I've messed around with the game a bit and found the best way is just to &lt;strong&gt;give people more cards at the beginning&lt;/strong&gt;. In the normal game, players often spend their first few turns drawing cards anyway to avoid revealing their plans, so this helps get things get rolling quickly. With every 2 you give out, you're approximately removing a whole round that would've been used drawing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've been giving each player 20 cards to start with, maybe only 18 with 5 players. It does add a little more luck, but this is easy overcome with skillful play, and it's little different from the luck found in the draws of the normal game. If this bothers you, just give people only 10 or 12 instead, or maybe remove the locomotives before dealing. More cards makes you look at alternate routes that work with the colors you've been dealt and adds of lot of interesting decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;We also just total scores at the end of the game&lt;/strong&gt; instead of continuously keeping track. I've found this rarely influences the game-play or players decisions, and its easy enough to do your own quick estimate of a players score if need be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T02:37:59.023" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-02T02:48:47.237" Score="2" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 3 player Citadels, each player chooses 2 characters. I've found I liked picking 2 characters so much that I've modified the game to be able to do it with any number of players. All I had to do was sleeve the all the characters and add my own in with the others. Picking 2 characters makes the game a little quicker, adds more strategy, and makes the game more interesting in general. I'm curious about how some of the characters from the Dark City expansion would work when &lt;em&gt;combined&lt;/em&gt; with the characters from the original game instead of substituted. Cards with a star go after cards without, making the wizard kind of like a 3.5 while the magician is just a 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've got so far for my analysis of the combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Witch and Assassin: No problems that I've found, but this is one combination I'm not 100% sure about. Players get more options to attack their opponents, which keeps everyone on their toes. The assassin goes before the witch, who can't steal his power, so if the witch can always be assassinated if one player is afraid of having their power stolen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tax Collector and Thief: No problems, although I &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; play with the tax collector. Its a fairly good character, but it just adds a drag to the whole game and takes away the fun and intensity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizard and Magician: The wizard is nice because you can steal a card without having to give up whatever is in your hand, but the magician lets you steal more and get rid of those districts you don't want. They don't tend to conflict much, and its interesting to watch the wizard steal back cards the magician took. Do they tend to balance well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King and Emperor: literally can't be done due to the crown conflict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abbot and Bishop: This is where things start to really change. Having 2 blue characters makes blue districts more valuable, especially since there aren't 2 green or 2 yellow characters. I'm a little hesitant to combine them as it throws off the balance of districts. The abbot's actually pretty weak as well. Are there any issues with using both of these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alchemist and Merchant: No conflicts, but since the alchemist doesn't get money from green districts it will throw the balance off if you use both blue characters or both red characters. Its pretty interesting to play with both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Architect and Navigator: No problems at all, fairly different characters that combine well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diplomat and Warlord: This was another big one. The diplomat tends to be a bit better than the warlord, even with the house rule that the Warlord gets to take the destroyed district into his hand. The warlord's only good if you don't mind wasting your gold to deter someone else instead of actually helping yourself. Do these combine well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would any of these combination have a detrimental affect on the game? How greatly would they change the game? Are my ideas anywhere near accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-04-02T03:10:14.267" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T17:21:15.633" Title="Playing with the characters from the base and the Dark City expansion for Citadels." Tags="|house-rules|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3097" CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:14:29.337" Score="10" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far I've found every card in Dominion has its own niche, but the woodcutter's seems to be exceptionally small. I only buy 1 or 2 if its the only card that gives +buys, otherwise a silver is better 99.9% of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing a key factor of the woodcutter? Is this the best way to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-04-02T06:43:00.283" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T13:27:00.813" Title="When is the woodcutter worth buying in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2011-04-02T03:43:47.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend the insightful writeup at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/12/10/dominion-woodcutter/&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy&lt;/a&gt; blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It boils down to mostly what you said: +Buy can certainly be very key, so if Woodcutter is the only way to get it, Woodcutter is useful.  It also works well with Gardens, but in the long run it's just one of the least useful cards in the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T03:43:47.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3090" CreationDate="2011-04-02T14:44:22.800" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;It must be random as Pat said, but you could immediately offer to trade whatever he draws with the card you'd rather give him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="962" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T14:44:22.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2011-04-02T17:56:44.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The utility depends entirely upon what's been placed into the initial setup. If it's the only 3-cost card, it's pretty useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: some people play with random card selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's a +2 coin and +1 buy action. Silver is a +2 coin, but costs no action. So it's essentially a silver that trades an action for a second buy. Which is wonderful when trying to buy out the villages and other cheap cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your options include villages and mines, having a short deck with village, mine and woodcutter allows grabbing extra copper to convert to silver...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-04-03T06:26:13.893" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T06:26:13.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3085" CreationDate="2011-04-02T20:00:46.837" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Captain&lt;/strong&gt;: I would argue that this is actually the most complicated role in the game. If calculating its effects seems easy to you, then Captain might be getting chosen too often in your games. In the group that I play with, it is usually not cut and dry...ie...not all goods will be shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that happens, so many things come into play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which of my opponents is likely to&#xA;captain if I don't?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I still be able to ship all my&#xA;goods if they captain instead?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I force someone else into loading&#xA;a coffee or tobacco boat when they&#xA;would rather not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the other players in the game&#xA;understand and silently collude to&#xA;make that happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I start a coffee or tobacco boat mid/late game to block my indigo and corn shipping opponents?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who has harbors, and how many times&#xA;will they get to ship?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How full is each boat and will the&#xA;other players get to ship what they&#xA;want?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about warehouses?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will the leftovers affect the&#xA;next trader phase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I delay captaining now, will the&#xA;next craftsman cause a shortage of&#xA;goods (ie. the supply will run out)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the players with factories be&#xA;affected by the shortage (and get&#xA;shortchanged on doubloons)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trader&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If trader is a great move for me now,&#xA;then it's likely that other players&#xA;won't want to take it. I can wait a&#xA;turn and it will have accumulated an&#xA;extra doubloon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I don't trade, will I still get to&#xA;if someone else trades (often the&#xA;answer is yes).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What goods are players left with&#xA;after a trade and who will be set up&#xA;well for the next trade?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mayor&lt;/strong&gt;: the other responses in this thread make good suggestions about mayor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for a big gap in benefit&#xA;(getting 3 colonists vs. 1&#xA;colonists).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do other players want me to mayor? If&#xA;I've got early production (corn and&#xA;indigo), and they are sitting on&#xA;coffee and tobacco with unmanned&#xA;production facilities - there is&#xA;almost no way I would ever choose&#xA;mayor. Force them to choose mayor, so&#xA;it will delay their craftsman by a&#xA;whole rotation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Craftsman&lt;/strong&gt; - Many of the considerations are actually covered in the Captain section. But also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The benefit of taking craftsman is&#xA;only one extra good, which is not&#xA;that significant most of the time.&#xA;When you take it, you are setting up&#xA;all the other players to have huge&#xA;moves on the subsequent turns, while&#xA;you are in the worst position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't craft, will you get shut&#xA;out because of good shortages?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have a factory? Do not craft&#xA;just so you can get your extra&#xA;doubloons. Someone else will craft,&#xA;and you will still get them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settler&lt;/strong&gt;: I try to always take it in the first two or three rounds if I can get a quarry. After that, it feels like the turn you give up to take it is almost always a waste. You'll usually be able to get what you want anyway when someone else chooses settler. If your strategy depends on getting a specific mix of plantations, then you might want to reconsider how you play the game. Which plantations come out is the only element of chance in Puerto Rico, why put yourself at the mercy of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Builder&lt;/strong&gt;: Most of the time I feel like this is one of the easier roles. I usually only take it if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can build and my opponents cannot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passing will give an opponent the&#xA;chance to buy the last of a&#xA;particular building that is crucial&#xA;to my own strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 1 doubloon discount will enable&#xA;me to buy a key building one or two&#xA;rounds earlier than if I let someone&#xA;else take it. (although as mentioned by Lance, you might be able to get this doubloon some other way on this turn - often by taking another role with a doubloon bonus already on it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is mid/late game and I am trying&#xA;to end the game by filling up all of&#xA;my building spaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T20:00:46.837" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-04-02T20:10:36.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Sale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just played for the first time last week. If you have experienced board gamers, it probably wouldn't be something you play every day, but a game only takes about 15 minutes, and as soon as it's over, players are usually eager to play another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an auction game that is themed on buying and selling real estate. Players start with money that's used to bid on houses of varying values (with art ranging from doghouses to mansions). After the houses have been purchased, players then enter a second round of bidding for more money, and bid with their purchased houses from the first round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had mix of experienced gamers and newbies, and it was just as well received by both. 3-6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastEditorUserId="2259" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T18:56:06.443" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T18:56:06.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2177" CreationDate="2011-04-02T22:02:23.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this really all depends on how experienced your group of players are. I have played Werewolf for a few years now, and there were times when we were playing with the same group of people so regularly that we actually came up with this idea of random special characters as a way to keep the game from ending up being all about deduction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were plenty of games where we would be down to the late mid-game // end-game and there would be this &quot;mass reveal&quot; from the villagers, where all special characters would come out and say who they were (without revealing their cards of course) and it just made the game way too easy for the Villagers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that doing this really helps the game out -if- your group of players tends to get very deductive as the game comes closer to the end. Just be careful to make sure you aren't ending up with possibilities that keep the game unbalanced. (Like by chance having a set of villagers that don't have a Healer or Seer on their side).. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2011-04-02T22:02:23.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-04-03T06:56:36.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Starfire&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starfiredesign.com/forum/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Starfire&lt;/a&gt;, played as a tactical game, is fast and pretty good for multiple players. Some prep needs be done outside play, namely ship sheets, but with experienced players, a fleet battle can be played in under an hour with a dozen ships on a side or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played a roughly 30-ship per side battle in 35 minutes before, tho' both I and the other player had counters bagged before hand, and fleets done up and printed out before hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Man To Man and The Fantasy Trip's Melee and Wizard&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The GURPS combat system was released as a board game, entitled Man to Man. It's pretty fast playing, and very tactical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, SJ's prior RPG, the Fantasy Trip, was released as two board games and a roleplaying expansion. The board games, entitled Melee and Wizard, sold quite well. Both are extremely tactical, and some copies keep surfacing in new or like new condition regularly. A later revision, Dragons of Underearth, was a board game with full RPG-style character generation, but limited skill and spell selections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very possible with either to play out a multiplayer game in 30-45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Full Thrust&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 1 ship per player, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fmaskirmish.com/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=category&amp;amp;sectionid=9&amp;amp;id=29&amp;amp;Itemid=50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Full Thrust&lt;/a&gt; plays VERY quickly. It's a miniatures game of space combat. The Babylon 5 version used 12-sided counters; there is no reason one can't make similar ones for the canon FT races. I've played multi-sided battles with novice players in 30-45 minutes, to conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the rules are available in PDF for free from the GZG website; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fmaskirmish.com/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;task=category&amp;amp;sectionid=9&amp;amp;id=29&amp;amp;Itemid=50&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; is to the downloads page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find the Chameleon Eclectic Babylon Project EarthForce Source Book, it includes a Babylon-5 themed version of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T07:05:01.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-04-03T08:59:13.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to the comment on going down.&#xA;Look at the scoring. If 1NT is opened weak, there is no slam for the opposition, so game is the best they can get (generally speaking of course). So lets say they could get 3NT themselves with an overtrick - 630. Compare this to 1NT vulnerable down 3 -800. OK down 3 non-vulnerable is 'only' 500 so maybe this could be a sacrifice, but only if game could have been made on a maximum of 40-12+28 points. If opener and partner has 13 and 5, then opposition will have only 22 - no game and a double of 1NT down 2 is far better (300) than a part score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1120" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T08:59:13.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3104" CreationDate="2011-04-03T13:47:58.060" Score="10" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a player purchases a power plant above the maximum limit, and must discard one, does the discard go under the stack of power plants, into a separate pile, or is it removed from the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2019-05-25T14:37:22.217" Title="How are power plant discards handled in Power Grid?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3103" CreationDate="2011-04-03T14:03:58.533" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are discarded, which pretty much means they are removed from the game.  The only time a power plant is put back under the stack of plants is during &lt;strong&gt;Phase 5: Update the power plant market&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a plant is discarded (because of too many plants) or removed from the game (no one bids on a plant in a turn, or someone's house count is higher than a power plant number), they aren't coming back, so &quot;discarded&quot; and &quot;removed from the game&quot; are pretty synonymous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-04-03T14:03:58.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3106" CreationDate="2011-04-04T05:47:28.460" Score="10" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Acreage&lt;/code&gt; minor improvement in the &lt;code&gt;K (complex)&lt;/code&gt; deck states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you&#xA;  Sow, you can plant 2 grain fields on&#xA;  this card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(This card does not count&#xA;  as a field when scoring.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that when I sow, this card can be treated as if I have 2 extra plowed regular fields and hence, I can put 6 grains on it (2 from my personal supply that I planted, 4 from the general supply)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what happens during the harvest period? Do I get to remove 2 grains from this card and put it in my personal supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T06:03:03.603" Title="Agricola - Acreage minor improvement" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3105" CreationDate="2011-04-04T06:03:03.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can plant two grains, and get four more from the general supply. At each harvest, you'll get two grains back, exactly as if the card was two fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you don't have to sow two grain - you can choose to just sow one, if you like (as if it was a single field, i.e. get two more from the general supply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T06:03:03.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3108" CreationDate="2011-04-04T07:13:03.227" Score="3" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played a game of Perudo the other day and ran into a situation during a palafico round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume there are three players left.  Player A has just lost their 4th die, Player B also has only one die left, and Player C has a few left.  A opens with a bid of two aces.  Can B then bid two twos?  How about three twos?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that during a palafico round aces are not wild, but it doesn't seem to clarify whether a bid in non-wild aces is still worth double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-04-04T17:30:10.020" LastActivityDate="2020-11-28T23:09:27.783" Title="Palafico round in Perudo" Tags="|liars-dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3107" CreationDate="2011-04-04T17:28:37.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question! I agree that the rules aren't completely clear here. We play this by treating the aces in a palafico round exactly as if they were normal numbers. So in your example both &lt;code&gt;two twos&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;three twos&lt;/code&gt; would be valid bids by B. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about the purpose of the doubling rule for wild aces. In a normal bid, when you say &lt;code&gt;five threes&lt;/code&gt;, you are making an estimate about the number of &lt;code&gt;threes&lt;/code&gt; &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; the number of aces. But when you bid on aces, you are bidding on aces alone. The doubling rule exists to make these bids comparable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But during a palafico round, aces are not wild; they're just ordinary numbers. It thus doesn't make any sense to require the doubling rule, because in this round, no bids benefit from additional aces. In other words, all bids are made on equal terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-04-04T17:28:37.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3110" CreationDate="2011-04-04T17:46:33.747" Score="14" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an action space which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After A, also B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After Family Growth, also 1 minor Improvement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that I &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; do &lt;strong&gt;both Family Growth and Minor Improvement&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T01:16:39.390" Title="Agricola - After/Also rule" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3109" CreationDate="2011-04-04T18:12:32.130" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first part is mandatory, the second optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rules for Family growth &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/en-agricola-rules-2014.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(page 5)&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players must have room for offspring in their home before they can&#xA;  use this action  – that is, they must have more rooms in their home than they have Family members. After taking Family growth, the player may choose to purchase a Minor Improvement &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in general, a player must be able to use an action to be allowed to place a worker on it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/en-agricola-rules-2014.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(page 3)&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Family member may never occupy an Action space without&#xA;  performing its action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore you cannot place a worker there just to block another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T01:16:39.390" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T01:16:39.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3115" CreationDate="2011-04-05T12:22:11.400" Score="5" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the Zeus' power of deciding to end the turn prematurely, he also fills the vacated space when the ship moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does he choose the &quot;adventure disc&quot; to be placed, or merely selects one at random?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="794" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T13:27:48.047" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T13:27:48.047" Title="Zeus Role on Odysseus" Tags="|odysseus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3090" CreationDate="2011-04-05T12:47:47.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they want it and you want to give it to them, that just skips the step of trading back whatever &quot;random&quot; card they pick. So it is random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1130" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T12:47:47.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3094" CreationDate="2011-04-05T13:27:00.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The time woodcutter stands out best is if there is a thief in play.  You now have almost a silver that cannot be stolen.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When i play dominion i keep a mental count of how many extra actions i have vs action cards in my deck.  If the action number gets high woodcutters become a much better card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T13:27:00.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3112" CreationDate="2011-04-05T17:59:26.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Zeus now chooses a new adventure disk&#xA;  from the reserve and places it on the&#xA;  empty space where Odysseus' ship&#xA;  started the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the word &quot;choose&quot; is a clear indicator that it doesn't have to be a random disk.  Especially as it's specified to be a &quot;face-up reserve&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-04-05T17:59:26.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3117" CreationDate="2011-04-06T01:48:38.277" Score="5" ViewCount="4119" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1997/i-have-the-dominion-base-set-only-in-what-order-should-i-buy-the-expansions&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://questions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;questions&lt;/a&gt; give a good explanation of the general changes each of the Dominion expansions add to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in this question I really want to zoom in the focus, particularly on how the potion card affects the game in Dominion: Alchemy. 10 of the 12 cards require a potion to buy, but there may be varying amounts of them in a given kingdom set. Without having actually played Alchemy I'm having trouble wrapping my head around how it will change things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you evaluate how many potions and how to balance it with your other treasures? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much complexity does the dual-economy of income add? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the potion treasure otherwise affect your strategy when cards from Alchemy are in the kingdom set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T02:02:15.757" Title="How does the addition of the Potion treasure from Dominion: Alchemy change the game?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3116" CreationDate="2011-04-06T02:02:15.757" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you're going to be buying cards with a potion in the cost, you will buy a potion right away on a 3/4 split. If you wait, then you won't have the potion shuffled into your deck early enough to get the potion-cost cards into your deck quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deciding whether to buy the potion-cost cards or not really depends on the setup. There are some situations in which a single card with a potion cost is worth purchasing (e.g., Golem in setups with poor +action, Vineyard in action-heavy setups). In other cases, it's better to ignore the potion-cost cards--if there's a Possession and Embargo on the board, lots of players will choose to embargo the Possession instead of dealing with that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, whether to get multiple potions also depends on the setup. Setups with +buy and cheap potion cards like Vineyard or Transmute make it less painful if you draw multiple potions in one hand. If you have cards that are fueled by potions, like Alchemists, it may be worthwhile to have an extra potion in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it seems really complicated initially, and the strategy can end up pretty involved, my experience was that it was rather straightforward to actually play with Alchemy once I had a good grasp of the base game. I certainly made lots of bad strategic choices initially, but I was not really confused by the dual economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've played with Black Market, it's a similar kind of calculation to playing with potions: you need to have that card in your hand in order to get access to other cards (potion cost cards or the BM deck), and you decide how many to purchase based on your needs at the time and your current deck composition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T02:02:15.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3119" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:14:53.043" Score="19" ViewCount="16301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always wondered this when I played Magic the Gathering, whether or not you can use a counter spell on a land.  I know a land is technically a spell, but it is a special type, hence the confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be kind of a waste to counter spell a land but still it could be a good strategic option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1133" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T04:49:07.730" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:17:47.717" Title="Can you counter a Land in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3118" CreationDate="2011-04-06T16:24:52.743" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope; it's a land (which is a special kind of not-a-spell card), not a spell.  In particular, a land never goes on the stack (where all the spells go); it goes directly from your hand into the battlefield as a permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you could, it would completely &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be a waste to counterspell a land.  Magic works on a steady acceleration of bigger and better spells as more land comes out.  Anything that puts your opponent a turn behind on that curve is useful.  Destroying/countering a land is about equivalent to delaying everything your opponent does for the rest of the game by one turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-04-06T16:24:52.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3122" CreationDate="2011-04-07T16:41:39.017" Score="6" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A has the witch and bewitches the Warlord.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A chooses to destroy player B's district.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B has the Bishop. Can he reveal it to protect himself?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If player B can do this and reveal the bishop, can player C rob the bishop with the thief?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T18:51:56.520" Title="If the Witch steals the power of the warlord and tries to destroy a player's district, are they protected if they have the bishop?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3121" CreationDate="2011-04-07T18:51:56.520" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Witch doesn't get to destroy a district when she is revealed - she skips her turn after taking an action, and only gets to play when (if!) the Warlord is revealed.  By that time, player B has already been revealed to be the Bishop, and is immune to the bewitched Warlord's power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-04-07T18:51:56.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="3123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2011-04-08T01:27:00.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely agree with previous mentions of Catan and Carcassonne (although I've only played the latter on the 360, it also has available expansions, so I will assume the experience is the same with the original version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From personal experience, I'd also suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5336/talisman-3rd-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Talisman&lt;/a&gt;. (I think 2nd edition is what I've played.) It may be a fun game with just the base set - I can't say because we never played just with that - but if you add the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/1741/talisman-dungeon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeon&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/1740/talisman-city&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;City&lt;/a&gt; expansions, as well as the base &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/1737/talisman-expansion-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Expansion&lt;/a&gt;, you've got a much deeper game. (I don't remember if we actually tried to tie in the Timescape expansion as well ... after a certain point, there can be too many options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games like that, ones that have expansions that don't depend on each other, give you a lot of options in terms of replayability ... and you'll always have the original game if you want a simpler, scaled-down game night once in a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T01:27:00.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2011-04-08T01:54:06.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gogrinder.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoGrinder&lt;/a&gt; is a free desktop program for practicing Go problems.  There's also a (paid) version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/gogrinder/id391100440?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoGrinder for iPhone&lt;/a&gt; on iTunes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastEditorUserId="915" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T02:00:41.170" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T02:00:41.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3127" CreationDate="2011-04-08T05:19:49.157" Score="4" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a game that involves identifying historical events, and I'm looking for an online source that I can use to generate a set of event cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my prototype, I'm using a copy of the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/834/chronology&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chronology&lt;/a&gt;, but to publish a print-and-play version, I'd need to find or create my own set of cards. If I could find an online source with a permissive licence, that might not be too much work. Other games like Chronology that could be used for prototyping would also be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T19:46:49.573" Title="Source for significant historical events" Tags="|game-design|history|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3126" CreationDate="2011-04-08T05:21:11.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best source I've found so far is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_timelines#History&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia timelines&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T05:21:11.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3126" CreationDate="2011-04-08T11:07:02.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's Amero-centric, but you could use the cards from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Events_on_the_Chrononauts_timeline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chrononauts&lt;/a&gt; as a good starting place.  That link lists everything that happened in real life, but not any of the alternate timeline cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T11:07:02.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3136" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:44:04.787" Score="3" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does the expansion contain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the different ways to play with it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is each different from playing without the expansion?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything else I should know about the expansion before buying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T17:00:06.597" Title="How does the Ticket To Ride:1910 expansion change the original game?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3131" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:45:32.910" Score="1" ViewCount="1996" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does it contain?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each component affect the base game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What improvements/advantages will it offer me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T12:54:17.423" Title="How does the Merlin's company expansion change Shadows over Camelot?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3130" CreationDate="2011-04-08T12:54:17.423" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merlin's company comes with a few different things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 new knights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;more black, white, and loyalty cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a new travel deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8 new knights can add some variety as you learn to use their powers. MC lets you play with 8, and if you really want to you can probably play with 9 or 10 without any major issues. The loyalty cards allow for as many as 3 traitors, although this substantially affects the difficulty level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new black and white cards are the real core of the expansion. There are plenty of new special blacks and whites, as well as enough standards to balance things out. The new threats and powers added by these cards are what really makes the game more interesting and fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The travel deck is basically just a cool way to make the game harder. Every time you move to a new quest you have to draw a travel card, most of which do bad things, although sometimes they will bring Merlin to your side and let you draw more white cards while on a quest. This adds a fair bit of tension and difficulty and makes the knights think very carefully about when to move around the more treacherous roads around Camelot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the expansion adds more variety, letting you add more players, choose different knights, play with 2 traitors, and use the travel deck to tweak the difficulty level. I'd highly recommend it if you play SOC a lot as it makes the game a lot more interesting. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T12:54:17.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2011-04-08T14:15:24.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mac Software&lt;/strong&gt;. It hasn't been updated in a while, and I have no idea if they're interested in porting it to iOS, but a company in Switzerland called Sente have produced a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; nice, and free, Go client for OSX called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sente.ch/software/goban/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goban&lt;/a&gt; (and it still works on Snow Leopard, despite not having updates since 2006). It lets you play against the Gnu-Go program (which it bundles), and it lets you connect to internet Go servers that support Go Modem and Go Text protocols. How good you think the opposing play AI is, well, I'm not sure an experienced Go player would appreciate it, but I sure do as a learner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one point, I was able to download and compile up a simple Go Server for OSX on my own, so I could host my own Go Server and then people at my workplace could connect to it and we could play games over our intranet, but I wouldn't recommend that for the non-technical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Books&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kiseido.com/go_books.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kiseido&lt;/a&gt; publishes a series of books on Go, in English. I have K31 (&quot;The Second Book of Go&quot;), which I thought was quite useful, and most of the Elementary Go Series (K10-K15), and, again, I found them quite useful. K31 says that it assumes that &quot;you're new to the game, but you've already read a newbie intro book on Go&quot;, but I didn't think it was necessary. Once you know the rules, I thought that K31 was a perfectly fine place to start your studies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't consider myself anything more than a beginner, and I also am not the sort of person who enjoys reading series of problems and such, so I haven't progressed past these books from Kiseido, but they do offer a whole raft of books for players of all skill levels (ostensibly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T14:15:24.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-04-08T15:06:23.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll let someone else explain the expansion options, I just want to list the most important change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;H2&gt;Normal Size Cards&lt;/H2&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T15:06:23.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3138" CreationDate="2011-04-08T15:43:53.983" Score="7" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;In ASL, may a berserk unit advance in the APh? It seems logical that it can't, but I cannot find the rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T22:12:09.477" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:12:09.477" Title="Can a berserk unit advance in Advanced Squad Leader?" Tags="|advanced-squad-leader|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3145" CreationDate="2011-04-08T16:23:30.370" Score="11" ViewCount="1506" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thickness&lt;/em&gt; in Go describes a strong formation of stones.  A &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt; group is one that's over-concentrated.  How do I know when my stones are thick, without going too far and becoming heavy?  It seems like this can happen in just a very few moves.  Are there any good tutorials that illustrate positions where a player turns a thick group into a heavy one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T20:38:59.077" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:38:59.077" Title="What is the difference between thickness and heavy stones?" Tags="|go|thickness|shape|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3129" CreationDate="2011-04-08T17:00:06.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1910&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The primary mechanical change is an alternate set of tickets, and there is also an additional bonus score condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tickets work exactly the same way as normal, but it's a different set. They may also be combined into a single large ticket deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard bonus condition is longest route; the new one is most completed tickets. Both have the same value, and are often not the same person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I've only played 1910 online, I can't speak to the card size issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Europe 1912&lt;/strong&gt;, the comparable expansion for Ticket to Ride: Europe, likewise has replacement tickets and the most routes bonus, but instead of adding full size cards, instead adds a &quot;depot&quot; mechanism, which results in the trains deck being depleted sooner and more cards being out of play. While the tickets are not cross-compatible, the depots are. Since TTRE also has separate long route cards, 1912 also adds 6 more, to a total of 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T17:00:06.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2659" CreationDate="2011-04-08T17:16:14.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one likes the base TTR game, but finds it too cutthroat, the best answer is to play one of the other base versions: either Nordic Countries (TTRNC) or Europe (TTRE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The USA map is all base runs, and not a lot of double track. This makes getting there a large part of the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Europe and Nordic maps both have many more routes to get places, and have more double routes as well. This allows for easier rerouting and makes successful blocking harder. The Swiss map likewise has lots of alternate routings, and is just an expansion set; it's essentially TTRE rules, tho'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Europe version also adds stations. A station allows &quot;borrowing&quot; an opponent's route (city placed in to next city) when tickets are scored; it can only be used for a single run, but it can be used for all tickets which use that particular run of track. This drastically reduces the cutthroat nature, as even a totally blocked chunk of track may be borrowed. It is not 100%, however... each player is limited to 3 stations, and no city may have more than one station total, so it's still possible to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is the Dice expansion. This removes the train cards from play, replacing them with dice. It's far more possible to get around the map that way, but the effect is minor compared to the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not also Märklin? It is vastly different a play experience. the passenger routing mechanic is slow, involves ≤1cm diameter counters, in ordered stacks, on the board, and increases the need to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T17:16:14.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2011-04-08T17:16:26.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can't advance while berserk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A15.431: ... nor may it move in the&#xA;  APh ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but, it may lose it's berserk status in the Advancing Fire Phase, and then advance in the Advance Phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A15.46 RETURN TO NORMAL: A berserk unit loses its berserk status and returns&#xA;  to Good Order whenever it (or the&#xA;  group it attacks with) eliminates all&#xA;  (but at least one) Known enemy units&#xA;  in its Location with either TPBF&#xA;  (halved) during the AFPh or CC, or if&#xA;  at the end of a charge there is no&#xA;  Known enemy unit in its LOS (15.431).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T17:16:26.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3126" CreationDate="2011-04-08T19:46:49.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0743270037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Timetables of History&lt;/a&gt;. Even though they are on low-tech dead trees, the cross-concern linking of people and events is awesome. I have used these books for RPG purposes and general entertainment reading for decades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that the Timetables provide better information (and inspiration!) than the Wikipedia timelines because of the way they connect events, people, and ideas. Especially for game design, the Timetables of History can help you unravel the skeins of history so you know which strings to tug on for desired results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T19:46:49.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2011-04-08T20:37:52.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way (and often the best looking) is to use Water Effects. Woodland Scenics makes it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://tinyurl.com/3hlc6x7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; as does Games Workshop itself. You create the terrain piece, and paint the areas that will eventually be under the effect with an appropriate color (often, blue is not appropriate for small pools of water...try brown or dark green) and the you simply pour in the Water Effect and wait for it to dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1138" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T20:37:52.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="274" CreationDate="2011-04-08T21:03:14.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used Quickshade and the much cheaper but equally effective Minwax polyshade on roughly one hundred miniatures. This pictures most definitely are not Photoshopped, but it's not quite the magic bullet as it seems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it certainly is a way to quickly finish a large number of models there are a few disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) It leaves a gloss finish on your model that, except in a few cases, is generally undesirable, which requires the application of a matt varnish to eliminate. Often times, though, you will want to protect the paint anyway, so it may or may not be an extra step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It requires a bit more prep work. Mold lines on your models, along with any imperfection, become accentuated with Quickshade, but again, that's the case if you use a wash anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) It's messy. I brush the stuff on, but the technique is called &quot;dipping&quot; because the technique first involved dipping the entire model into the poly and then shaking/spinning it to remove the excess. In my case, after I get it on, I carefully brush off the excess, but it can easily pool in certain recesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a great way to get a large number of figures painted and ready for the tabletop quickly. A small container of Quickshade is roughly thirty US dollars, and the Minwax Polyshade (I prefer Tudor Satin), is about 8 dollars for a few pints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how I do it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://hivezero.blogspot.com/2010/09/speed-painting-tyranid-termagant.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hivezero.blogspot.com/2010/09/speed-painting-tyranid-termagant.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a ton of other tutorials and galleries on the web. Search &quot;40k dipping&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1138" LastEditorUserId="1138" LastEditDate="2011-04-08T21:23:25.943" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T21:23:25.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3135" CreationDate="2011-04-08T23:19:11.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert (10k on a good day) but if you follow the general rule of &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?PlayAwayFromThickness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;playing away from thickness&lt;/a&gt; you should be off to a good start. If you fail to play far enough away you could easily get &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Overconcentrated&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;over connected&lt;/a&gt; which could lead to a heavy group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastActivityDate="2011-04-08T23:19:11.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3149" CreationDate="2011-04-09T01:24:07.297" Score="5" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many cards in Agricola give you bonus resources under certain circumstances. For example, the Stone Carrier occupation says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you take Stone with an&#xA;  action, you can also take 1 additional&#xA;  Stone. If you also receive other&#xA;  building resources, this costs you 1&#xA;  Food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cards also modify existing actions. For example, the Quarry reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you use the &quot;Day Laborer&quot;&#xA;  Action, you receive an additional 3&#xA;  Stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a Quarry and a Stone Carrier, and you take Day Labour, do you receive 2 food and 4 stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this generally true for all cards that supply bonuses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T20:28:38.590" Title="Do cards that supply bonuses trigger on actions modified by other cards?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6697" CreationDate="2011-04-09T05:20:41.217" Score="4" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing against the Spectral Horseman, if something in the game triggers a single fight round with the Villain, does the Spectral Horseman's &amp;quot;The Horseman Rides Tonight!&amp;quot; event take effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here's the wording on the Deadly Encounter mystery card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every Hero must immediately roll a D6. Whoever rolls the lowest (roll off if tied), must resolve a single Fight Round with the Villain. Instead of causing Wounds, each Hit done to the Villain gains 1 investigation for the Hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and the text for &amp;quot;The Horseman Rides Tonight!&amp;quot; event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Villain attacks! The Hero must immediately resolve a single Fight Round with the Villain. Instead of causing Wounds, each Hit done to the Villain gains 1 Investigation for the Hero. This does NOT cause a Showdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an Fight here (or even if there is no Fight), the Spectral Horseman moves along the shortest path to the Town Hall, Fighting every Hero along the way as normal for his Relentless Charge ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just coincidence that the first part of the event reads almost exactly the same as the deadly encounter or should the Spectral Horseman make his ride to the Town Hall and attack all other Heroes along the way in the event of a card that triggers a single fight round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T16:16:04.670" Title="Does resolving a single fight round in A Touch of Evil also trigger &quot;The Horseman Rides Tonight!&quot; event?" Tags="|a-touch-of-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3135" CreationDate="2011-04-09T12:25:25.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know your stones are thick when they form a safe group that secures some territory and/or build some influence, threatens to attack... or just give you some kind of advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no official definition for &quot;heavy stones&quot;, but I think the term was used instead of the term &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BadShape&quot;&gt;bad shape&lt;/a&gt; for a group of 5 stones or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, if you have a group of stones all connected together that doesn't do much to secure some territory or reduce the opponent's, then you probably have a bad, heavy, over concentrated shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-----EDIT-----&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add to my answer, I found some good definitions and examples of &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?HeavyVersusOverconcentrated&quot;&gt;heavy vs overconcentrated&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Heavy&quot;&gt;heavy&lt;/a&gt; which might be useful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastEditorDisplayName="user545" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T02:39:14.457" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T02:39:14.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3470" CreationDate="2011-04-09T13:16:15.137" Score="11" ViewCount="1959" Body="&lt;p&gt;In certain cases in Descent, a good player (in particular with the Overlord) can destroy the other side. However, I feel that Descent is most fun when it is well balanced right up to the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What handicaps, with emphasis on the Overload, are good to balance the play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I would like handicaps that would still allow both parties to play their best and still try to win (i.e. one side going easy does not count). I realize a lot of handicaps could also be scenario/expansion specific, but for now let's just stick to the base rules; or at least only suggest such handicaps as a secondary solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="783" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T03:41:18.057" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:51:29.973" Title="Good handicaps for Descent" Tags="|house-rules|descent|handicap|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3143" CreationDate="2011-04-09T14:43:21.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I read that, you're not directly taking stone with the action.  Day Laborer gives two food only, so I don't think Stone Carrier applies in this case.  So with the Quarry, you get 2 food and 3 stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were using the family variant of Day Laborer which gives 1 food and 1 resource, then things might be different.  If you chose stone as your resource, then I think both cards apply.  You get 1 extra stone per the Stone Carrier, 3 extra stone with the Quarry, and you pay the 1 food because you received additional resources.  So I think that's a total of 5 stone and 0 food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T14:43:21.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3185" CreationDate="2011-04-09T16:08:01.427" Score="6" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night we had one player move to the Doctor's Office Town space with one wound left. He wanted to use the special ability of the Doctor's Office prior to drawing an event card so that he could heal himself before encountering something from the event deck that could potentially cause damage to his character and possibly kill him off. At the time, we ruled that he would have to take the event card first since it is the first thing listed on the text for the space. As it turns out, he ended up drawing a &quot;Duel of Honor&quot; card. While he did survive the encounter (barely), he very well could have been killed. Should we have allowed him to heal his character first instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T17:39:47.440" Title="Does the Event Card have to be drawn first when encountering a Town space in A Touch of Evil?" Tags="|a-touch-of-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3143" CreationDate="2011-04-09T20:28:38.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really recommend downloading yourself a copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/34558/the-unofficial-agricola-compendium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unofficial Agricola Companion&lt;/a&gt;, which has many amazingly useful and comprehensive rulings from the game designers themselves.  From the entry for Stone Carrier, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is activated when you use an action space on which stone is placed each round. You cannot use such an action space just to use this card if the action space contains no stone (e.g. when you have the Bureaucrat.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is activated by the action space &quot;Take 1 Building Resource&quot; in 3-player games if you take stone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is also activated by the action space &quot;1 Reed, Stone, and Wood&quot; in 5-player games and the action space &quot;1 Reed, Stone, and Food&quot; in 4-player games, if you pay 1 food.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You also pay 1 food to use this card if you receive other building resources at the same time from occupations and minor improvements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is not activated when you receive stone because of a minor improvement or occupation.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other building resources are wood, clay, and reed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've highlighted the part that answers your question: you only get the additional Stone if you take Stone from one of the specified action spaces.  (Yes, this is generally true in Agricola, though be sure to read the card wordings carefully, and check the rulings if you are in any doubt whatsoever, as it is a game with lots of exceptions to any given rule!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T20:28:38.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3150" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:15:44.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A highly strategic war-game which focuses on negotiations between players. Moves are not dice-based and the negotiation aspect provides many opportunities to form, manipulate, and break secret alliances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game starts in 1901 with 7 players who play as the 7 Great Powers of Europe: England, France, The German Empire (Referred to as Germany), Italy, The Austro-Hungarian Empire (Referred to as Austria), The Russian Empire (Referred to as Russia), and The Ottoman Empire (Referred to as Turkey). Each may negotiate with eachother and all unit commands are revealed by the players at the same time. Good Diplomatic skills are useful to prevail in this World War I themed game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="20965" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2017-06-12T06:01:43.670" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T06:01:43.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3151" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:15:44.807" Score="0" Body="A highly strategic war-game which focuses on negotiations between players. Many opportunities to form, manipulate, and break secret alliances." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T03:53:00.603" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T03:53:00.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3152" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:18:15.053" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T21:18:15.053" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T21:18:15.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3153" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:18:15.053" Score="0" Body="An asymmetrical role-playing boardgame where a team of adventurers cooperate to battle through dungeons against whatever threats the overlord throws against them." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-04-11T23:36:23.727" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T23:36:23.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3154" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:19:41.263" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-09T21:19:41.263" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T21:19:41.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3155" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:19:41.263" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game where players take on the role of the knights of Camelot to combat the various threats that arise around the locale. But one player might be a hidden traitor and try to sabotage their efforts..." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T03:53:16.390" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T03:53:16.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3156" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:21:52.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go (&lt;em&gt;baduk&lt;/em&gt;, Korean; &lt;em&gt;wei qi&lt;/em&gt;, Chinese) is an ancient strategy game for 2 players who try to outwit each other by placing stones on a 19x19 board to simulate the capturing of territory. If stones of one color completely surround stones of another color, such that the surrounded stones have no &lt;em&gt;liberties&lt;/em&gt; (adjacent open spaces), then the surrounded stones are captured by the attacker and removed from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ How captures work: each move (1, 2, 3) captures the marked stone(s) next to it.&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ .XWW1..OB-&#xA;$$ ..XX....2-&#xA;$$ .........-&#xA;$$ ...XXXO..-&#xA;$$ ..XWWW3O.-&#xA;$$ ...XXXO..-&#xA;$$ .........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends when both players pass, seeing no advantage to playing more stones. There are variations in scoring rules, but under the common Japanese scoring system points are awarded 1 for each open space of territory that a player surrounds, and 1 for each opponent's stone captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go questions regarding any aspect of the game, at any level, are welcome. For specific positional questions, diagrams are extremely useful (see below). &quot;Why&quot; questions, strategy questions, rules questions, joseki and joseki-deviation questions, equipment questions, bring 'em all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid confusion with the common English word, references to the game of Go should always be capitalized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tags&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be useful to combine other tags with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/go&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;go&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;go&lt;/a&gt; to show what aspect a question concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go-specific tags are: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tsumego&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tsumego&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tsumego&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/joseki&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;joseki&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;joseki&lt;/a&gt; (standard opening sequences in one corner), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/joseki-deviation&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;joseki-deviation&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;joseki-deviation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/thickness&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;thickness&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;thickness&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/influence&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;influence&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;influence&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/extension&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;extension&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;extension&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/leela&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;leela&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;leela&lt;/a&gt; (a Go-playing programme), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/kgs&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;kgs&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;kgs&lt;/a&gt; (online Go), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/13x13&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;13x13&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;13x13&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/ko&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;ko&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;ko&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/seki&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;seki&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;seki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also more or less restricted to Go: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/trick-move&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;trick-move&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;trick-move&lt;/a&gt; (during joseki), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/invasion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;invasion&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;invasion&lt;/a&gt; (of opponent’s territory), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/shape&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;shape&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;shape&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/kifu&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;kifu&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;kifu&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic tags often combined with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/go&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;go&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;go&lt;/a&gt; are: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/openings&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;openings&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;openings&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/end-game&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;end-game&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;end-game&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/counting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;counting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;counting&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/scoring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;scoring&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;scoring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/aesthetics&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;aesthetics&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;aesthetics&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less frequent generic tags: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/rank&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;rank&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;rank&lt;/a&gt; (in Go terms: kyu or dan), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/computers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;computers&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;computers&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/computer-ai&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;computer-ai&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;computer-ai&lt;/a&gt; (e.g. for AlphaGo), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/components&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;components&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;components&lt;/a&gt; (for stones and boards), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/professional&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;professional&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;professional&lt;/a&gt; (players), &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/handicap&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;handicap&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;handicap&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/etiquette&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;etiquette&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;etiquette&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/game-theory&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;game-theory&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;game-theory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Diagram Markup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Diagram of a ko&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ ........-&#xA;$$ ..XO....-&#xA;$$ .XC1O...-&#xA;$$ ..XO,...-&#xA;$$ ........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site uses the same diagram symbols as &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?HowDiagramsWork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt;. Often the easiest way to start a diagram is by copying the markup from an existing one. This can be done by clicking the &quot;edit&quot; button on an existing question or answer (or this wiki), and then canceling the edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more details, tools and samples, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/a/1659/14474&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/987/how-do-we-enter-go-boards-on-this-site&quot;&gt;How do we enter Go Boards on this site?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://senseis.xmp.net/?HowDiagramsWork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the article on diagrams in Sensei’s Library&lt;/a&gt;, to which that answer links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Unicode includes a few handy characters, which you can cut and paste from here and use to refer to diagrams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;⓿ ❶❷❸❹❺❻❼❽❾❿ ⓫⓬⓭⓮⓯⓰⓱⓲⓳⓴ &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  ⓪ &amp;nbsp;①②③④⑤⑥⑦⑧⑨⑩ ➀➁➂➃➄➅➆➇➈➉ &lt;em&gt;(second group slightly larger)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  ▲△ ◯⬤ &lt;em&gt;note&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Useful Links&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent general resource, including terminology&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Josekipedia&lt;/a&gt; is a wiki for Joseki&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goproblems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GoProblems.com&lt;/a&gt; has, predictably, Go problems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KGS&lt;/a&gt; is a popular Internet Go server.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go&lt;/a&gt; in Wikipedia gives a lot of background, though less practical advice on playing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;sub&gt; These are large circles, normal circles ○● look too small. &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T22:30:33.793" LastActivityDate="2018-11-19T22:30:33.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3157" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:21:52.807" Score="0" Body="An ancient strategy game for 2 players who try to outwit each other by placing stones on the board to simulate the capturing of territory. To add a board diagram to a post, see instructions in the tag-wiki." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T17:47:08.837" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T17:47:08.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3160" CreationDate="2011-04-09T21:30:39.277" Score="13" ViewCount="10698" Body="&lt;p&gt;BoardGameGeek says 4 hours, I've heard a lot of people say 5 hours, but some of my friends say they've played it several time in less than 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the game time vary with different numbers of people?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does the game time vary with player experience? What's the difference in the length of time between a group's first game and their games as they gain more familiarity with the rules and strategy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I not buy the game if I doubt my group will be able to have 4 hour straight sessions very often? Is it possible to shorten the game length if need be, or break it up into shorter sessions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now the length of time required and the complexity level are the biggest factors affecting whether I buy this game, and I wanted to get some second opinions. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2017-05-02T01:30:54.097" Title="How long does it take to play Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|play-time|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2011-04-09T22:13:01.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I can tell you my personal experience - I bought it because I knew lots of friends and acquaintances in my past were fairly obsessive about it, and organized an 8-player game one evening with a bunch of beginners.  Four or five hours later, we were maybe halfway through the game?  One or two of the group had gotten pretty into their characters and quests, but some of the others had completely given up, it was just too much.  Admittedly this was a very &quot;casual&quot; set of players, not dedicated boardgamers, but it's a cautionary tale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say you wouldn't want to break this out except amongst people who are pretty serious about boardgames, and preferably people who have done some roleplaying - Call of Cthulhu would be ideal, obviously, but in general terms I really would class this as a roleplayer's boardgame.  It definitely seems advisable to learn the rules with a smaller group than 8!  I expect that games will speed up as everyone becomes familiar with the mechanics and strategies, but I'd still expect to be talking 3+ hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see the point of breaking it up into multiple sessions really - part of the fun of the Lovecraftian universe is slogging onwards to the end of your quest despite encroaching exhaustion and madness!  If you're looking for a light, fun game that you can whip out at short notice and then play for a couple of rounds before putting away again, Arkham Horror would seem to me like a really odd choice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T22:13:01.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2011-04-09T22:55:12.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played once (there were four of us) and it took about 4 hours. I would agree with thesunneversets that you'll likely have a much better experience if you slowly bring in new players. In this game, I was the only n00b and one of the guys had played a ton of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important because Arkham is a pretty complicated game. Combat with monsters, which happens quite a lot, requires remembering what four different symbols mean, as well as the order of rolls. If I didn't have someone there to basically tell me what I needed to roll and why, we would have spent lots of time figuring things out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also lots of little details, like remembering what the color codes on the monsters mean (they may be aquatic, or flyers, or move in a certain way). All that encoded in a colored border. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had a lot of fun but I'd say play on setting aside a good chunk of time, especially if your group is all learning together. I also suspect that game length is a strong function of experience. I could see it moving the total time by an hour or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, I would recommend breaking the game up into multiple sessions. There are lots of tokens and counters and cards. You'd either have to devote a room to holding the board between games or take a picture of the board. Otherwise, there'd be no way to remember where the portals were, which ones were closed, what the players stats were at, what items everyone had, the count on the doom track, etc. It's too much to break down between games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-04-09T22:55:12.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3162" CreationDate="2011-04-09T23:23:11.680" Score="19" ViewCount="36308" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, I would check Scrye magazine to figure out how much my Magic cards should sell for, but they folded two years ago. Where's a good place to price my collection these days?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1146" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T14:18:04.610" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T13:53:38.080" Title="How do I find out a fair price for my Magic the Gathering cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|pricing|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-04-10T00:08:24.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to know what you can actually sell individual cards for, I think you can't do better than &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/&quot;&gt;ebay&lt;/a&gt;. If you look at price indices like Scrye used to have, you run into the problem that what a shop can sell a card for is typically much higher than what you, a private individual, can achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind as well that prices for individual cards are much higher than buying in bulk. In other words, you might work out that your collection is worth thousands of dollars, if you were to sell each rare individually. But if you tried to sell the same thing to a shop, or in a single lot on ebay, it would sell for only a small fraction of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other caveat is if you have many extremely rare old cards from the first days of Magic. In this case, the wear and tear of the card has a very large impact on the potential price. Again, ebay will give you an excellent guide to how much these can vary (try doing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://toys.shop.ebay.com/Individual-Cards-/Individual-Cards-/38292/i.html?_nkw=black%20lotus&quot;&gt;search for &quot;Black Lotus&quot;&lt;/a&gt; for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T00:08:24.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3170" CreationDate="2011-04-10T00:56:11.520" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fleet is one away from&#xA;auto-jumping, i.e. at the -1 location&#xA;on the jump track&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consult The Prisoner is drawn during&#xA;the Crisis step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Current Player chooses to attempt the&#xA;skill check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Humans pass the skill check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The jump track is advanced to&#xA;auto-jump (from passing the check)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The jump is resolved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens next? Do we still resolve the Activate Cylon Ships (there are none) and Prepare For Jump steps? I see no reason not to, but it just seemed a little odd. So the fleet moves to the second spot on the jump track, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T15:05:27.933" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T17:03:31.140" Title="Does Consult The Prisoner move jump track again, after an auto-jump?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|exodus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="274" CreationDate="2011-04-10T01:10:24.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The photos aren't photoshopped, but the results are particularly dramatic in the example work the OP included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any wash can be used to do similar, and a black &quot;inkwash&quot; (black paint thinned to ink consistency) is similar to the dark varnish, but without the excess glossiness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less expensive option is any thin &amp;amp; colored varnish that isn't going to liquify the paint beneath... and that is the trick. As most varnishes are thinned with solvents, you need to make certain that the paint you are using won't be disolved by the varnish. Minwax is traditional, but others will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, learning to apply it evenly, and to dry it effectively, is an art all it's own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In competent hands, it can be a wonderful tool... but it will take practice, and it's not easily removed as an inkwash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T01:10:24.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3166" CreationDate="2011-04-10T14:50:43.587" Score="23" ViewCount="1795" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting scenario the other day. When playing the Action card &quot;Everybody Gets 1&quot; I drew a Creeper card. At this point though I had a conundrum. The Creeper card states I &quot;must place it face up in front of you as soon as you get it.&quot; Well I wasn't &quot;getting&quot; this card, I was going to give it to another player under the rules of &quot;Everybody Gets 1&quot;. Under this, the player I give it to should play the Creeper. However the Creeper also states &quot;If you drew it, immediately draw another card to replace it.&quot; I did draw the card, so perhaps I should put the Creeper down and continue with the Action card. But it's that they put the word &quot;if&quot; in there that makes me hesitate since the wording makes it sound like only if I receive it, which brings me back to the previous point. So I'm wondering, when playing this Action card do I put down a Creeper if I draw it or does the person I'm giving it to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If people are wondering, when playing the game we've pretty much just gone with whatever ruling feels more appropriate at the time. If someone's feeling generous they put the Creeper down and draw another. If we're feeling more evil, we'll give it to someone else ;) But each time it's come up we're still confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1125" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T13:51:16.043" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T13:51:16.043" Title="Do I have to keep a creeper whenever I draw cards in Fluxx, even if I was drawing cards to give to other players for &quot;Everybody Gets 1&quot;?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3165" CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:03:02.333" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the rules carefully, I found that this is mentioned in the Creeper section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that this is true any time you draw a card; for example, with 'Everybody Gets 1' you must keep all Creepers you get while drawing the cards you'll be giving to other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you drew Creepers during Everybody Gets 1, you would keep the Creepers you got, draw new cards to replace them, and give 1 non-creeper to each other player. After some searching I found it on &lt;a href=&quot;http://lists.looneylabs.com/pipermail/fluxx/2007-October/001075.html&quot;&gt;the mailing list for Looney Labs&lt;/a&gt;. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T15:03:02.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3167" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:10:14.390" Score="19" ViewCount="20390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arkham_Horror#Expansions&quot;&gt;7 different expansions&lt;/a&gt; for Arkham Horror, and I'm need some advice as which to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each expansion change the game? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What new components does it offer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what order and in what circumstances would you recommend buying it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to list whatever information you can on the expansions you have, as I realize that very few people will have 7. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T15:45:55.900" Title="How do the various expansions for Arkham Horror change the game? In what order would you recommend buying them?" Tags="|arkham-horror|expansions|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-04-10T15:45:41.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/cardgames/no_thanks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No Thanks!&lt;/a&gt; is a really fun game that would be great for playing in a bar. It's portable, simple, doesn't need lots of space, and plays very quickly (about 10-15 min per game). It's also surprisingly challenging. It has some tactical and psychological elements, as there's a degree of bluffing and risk calculation. It officially supports 3-5 players, but I've played it with 6 (just reduce the number of starting tokens) and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-04-10T16:41:18.467" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T16:41:18.467" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:02:54.337" Score="13" ViewCount="7398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess seems to develop a specialized skill set that in my experience is mostly irrelevant to everyday life. However, I would like to know of any real-life applications that I have overlooked. I am a novice chess player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit]For Example: My brother's University Statistics teacher was a veteran Blackjack player and used the game to teach statistics (and keep the class interesting).  More abstractly: There is an ancient game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailycal.org/article/104645/mathematicians_explore_board_game_s_real-world_app&quot;&gt;Go&lt;/a&gt;, which still poses real problems for artificial intelligence; unlike chess for which Deep Blue has already been programmed to win (I think that might technically be an application).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1147" LastEditorUserId="1147" LastEditDate="2011-04-11T20:46:30.733" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T03:46:54.810" Title="Are There Any Real-Life Applications of Chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3163" CreationDate="2011-04-10T17:03:31.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  The situation is a little strange, but it's clear that the card is intended to increase the jump track twice on a passed check, and the rules for resolving cards are clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T17:03:31.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3167" CreationDate="2011-04-10T19:13:22.187" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll list the expansions in the order they were released, and give you some basic information and my experiences with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharaoh&lt;/strong&gt; - The first expansion, a &quot;small box&quot; expansion that just adds new cards.  Out of all of the expansions, this one (currently) adds the smallest amount to the game.  It adds a few new mechanics in the Exhibit Items (which are a different class of Unique Items), being able to be locked out of a neighbourhood, and the benefits and detriments.  There's a revised version coming out during the summer of 2011, so if you were planning on getting it, you may want to consider waiting until then, as it will completely replace the old version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/strong&gt; - This was the first &quot;big box&quot; expansion that adds to the board.  It also adds 8 new investigators, 4 new Ancient Ones, and some new mechanics (Injuries and Madnesses, conditions, Vortex Spaces, Stalkers) and monsters and whatnot.  It's a pretty fun expansion, in my opinion.  The Dunwich Horror itself is a fun encounter, and the new location fits in well and adds to the board well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The King in Yellow&lt;/strong&gt; - Another &quot;small box.&quot;  It adds Heralds (which are kind of like mini-Ancient Ones that add debuffs or other challenges to the game, you know, if things are going to easy for you) and persistent Magical Effects.  It also adds Blights, and has a cool Acts and Yellow Sign mechanics, which can really amp up the intensity of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kingsport Horror&lt;/strong&gt; - A &quot;big box&quot; that adds to the game board again, and also comes with new investigators and Ancient Ones.  It also includes some new mechanics, like Rift gates (movable Gates), Epic Battles (which are cards that add a little more structure and excitement to battles with the Ancient Ones), and Guardians (the opposite of Heralds, these provide mechanics and buffs to help the investigators).  While I like the Guardians and the Epic Battles, Kingsport itself is incredibly annoying.  You pretty much have to have at least one investigator up there, running around doing the equivalent of busywork to keep Rifts from popping up keeping it under control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Black Goat of the Woods&lt;/strong&gt; - A &quot;small box&quot; expansion that introduces Difficulty cards (things too easy last time?  Play at a harder difficulty as described by these cards), Corruption (effects triggered by other effects in the game, like monster movement), and Cult encounters.  You can even join the cult.  I wasn't a big fan of this box, but I know a lot of other players love it.  I just didn't find it really added anything to the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Innsmouth Horror&lt;/strong&gt; - This is my favourite expansion.  It's a &quot;big box&quot; that adds to the board, as well as adding new investigators, a whole whack of Ancient Ones (8), two more Heralds, the aquatic movement mechanic, and Personal Stories, which are a lot of fun.  They're kind of meta-game missions for each character that can add some cool mechanics or enhance a character if successfully completed... or really hinder a character if failed.  They can detract from the main goal of the game, however, so you have to be careful.  Innsmouth is an interesting place with its own mechanics that don't feel like busywork like Kingsport.  The Ancient Old ones here are also quite interesting, with their own mechanics and challenges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Lurker at the Threshold&lt;/strong&gt; - The latest &quot;small box&quot; expansion, this adds Gate tokens with new mechanics that replace the existing Gates in the game, Relationship cards which can change how your investigator relates to the other investigators in the game (in both positive and negative ways), and the Lurker at the Threshold herald, who can be a help or a hinderance.  He likes to help you succeed at casting spells... but there may be a price to pay.  If you don't tend to play spell casters, it's also completely ignorable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spring 2011 will see the release of the &lt;strong&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/strong&gt; expansion, which is a big box expansion that adds to all of the other expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which to get, if you can only get a few, I'd recommend Innsmouth Horror, the King in Yellow, and Kingsport Horror, if only for the Epic Battles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have all of the expansions to date, and have played them all pretty extensively (except for the Black Goat of the Woods), and they all have their pros and cons.  I would starts with those three, however.  You can play with all of the expansions at once, but be prepared that you will have a lot of things to keep track of.  Not to mention that you'd need a very large table and that the balance would require a large number of investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T19:13:22.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:44:26.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another great and reliable source is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/spoiler/spoiler.php&quot;&gt;http://sales.starcitygames.com/spoiler/spoiler.php&lt;/a&gt; which has a nice search engine and rather stable prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just reduce the prices by something like 20 or 30% to account for the money they want to make on the cards. The important thing is the relative value of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T22:44:26.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2011-04-10T22:48:16.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a quite heavy article on the subject : &lt;a href=&quot;http://sites.google.com/site/emidln/doomsdaystacks&quot;&gt;http://sites.google.com/site/emidln/doomsdaystacks&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It describes the uses of the card in competitive legacy play, with several &quot;win now&quot; stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to float some mana, for instance 1U with this stack and Sensei Top (SDT) in play :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Top] &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brainstorm &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lion's Eye Diamond (LED)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lion's Eye Diamond&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ill-Gotten Gains (IGG)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tendrils of Agony&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Bottom]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it Works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap SDT to draw into Brainstorm (1U floating). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Brainstorm (1 floating) to draw into SDT, LED, LED. Put back 2 random cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play LED, LED, SDT. Break LEDs for UUU and BBB.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay B to rearrange the top3 using SDT putting IGG on top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap SDT to draw into IGG. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play IGG (floating U) returning LED, LED, Brainstorm. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play LED, LED, Brainstorm (breaking both LED for BBBBBB) to draw SDT. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play SDT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay B to rearrange the top3 using SDT putting Tendrils of Agony on top. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap SDT to draw Tendrils of Agony. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Tendrils of Agony and kill with the storm triggers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="1150" LastEditDate="2011-04-19T21:21:57.867" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T21:21:57.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-04-10T23:52:24.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can search for only 10 cards at a time, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.apathyhouse.com/pricelist/trader.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apathy House Trade Evaluator&lt;/a&gt; is a nice way to find reasonable prices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I've traded in the past, others have requested I use Apathy House to value my cards, and when I've sold on eBay, the prices I have received have been close to what Apathy House suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-04-10T23:52:24.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-11T01:16:12.863" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play chess a lot, you'll probably develop some or all of these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Critical thinking (Are some moves better than others?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Analytical skills (What's my opponent likely to do?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spatial awareness (Where can a given piece move?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Patience (Good strategies take time to develop)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Courtesy (Be a good loser &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; winner, no table flips, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think one would be hard-pressed to argue that any of those aren't useful for everyday life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T01:16:12.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-11T03:17:09.203" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the benefits listed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3169/are-there-any-real-life-applications-of-chess/3177#3177&quot;&gt;@Kristo&lt;/a&gt;, more direct applications of chess skill would be teaching chess and writing articles or books about chess.  A lot of master and grandmaster players make their living this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T03:17:09.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-04-11T13:48:07.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.manticgames.com/Shop-Home/Dwarf-Kings-Hold.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.manticgames.com/Shop-Home/Dwarf-Kings-Hold.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a very, very fast game with quick rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1138" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T13:48:07.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3181" CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:38:20.317" Score="12" ViewCount="1672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mining Village has the option to trash it &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; and gain 2 coins. What exactly is meant by immediately? In other words, if I play a Mining Village what can I do before I must choose whether to trash it or not and gain 2 coins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in whether I can first draw another card (one of Mining Village's effects) and play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1153" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T14:41:05.243" Title="How does Mining Village's extra effect work in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3180" CreationDate="2011-04-11T14:41:05.243" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You draw the card, but may not play it prior to fully resolving Mining Village.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always work from the top down on a card.  For Mining Village you do the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 Card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+2 Actions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optional - trash Mining Village for +2 coins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T14:41:05.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2011-04-11T16:55:43.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how well this question can be answered for this game. There are a lot of variables: number of players, player speed, expansions used, whether the Ancient One awakens or not, etc. I've played the game a few times. One time we finished in about two hours. Another time it took 10 hours! That was a 7-player game where the Ancient One awoke (I forget which one it was, but the battle took forever!). So there is a huge amount of variability with this game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'd say 2 and 10 hours are the extremes, but you're likely to be somewhere in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T16:55:43.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:12:13.303" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess develops the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.corestandards.org/the-standards&quot;&gt;US national standards&lt;/a&gt; in education:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mathematical Practice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1   Make sense of problems and persevere in solving them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2   Reason abstractly and quantitatively.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5   Use appropriate tools strategically.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  7   Look for and make use of structure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  8   Look for and express regularity in repeated reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These standards are not fully met by it, but chess players generally have the ability to do the above to some degree, as all the above are essential to playing chess. They apply to just about any tactical game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eed.state.ak.us/standards/&quot;&gt;Alaska State Educational Standards&lt;/a&gt; addressed by Chess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Healthy Life Skills&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  B1 demonstrate an ability to make responsible decisions by discriminating among&#xA;  risks and by identifying consequences;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Employability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;B1 identify and appreciate personal interests, aptitudes, abilities, and priorities;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anchorage School District Behavioral Standards addressed  by chess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Turn taking (Gr Pre-K and up)&lt;br&gt;Use of multiple approaches to address a problem (Gr 3 &amp;amp; up)&lt;br&gt;Ability to plan ahead and see consequences of actions (Gr 4 &amp;amp; up)&lt;br&gt;Develop good sportsmanship (Gr K &amp;amp; up)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, almost any board game more complex than Candyland works all of these. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T17:12:13.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:22:12.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a fair degree of precision, you can control the length.  Of course there are always going to be outliers, but on average you can dial it in pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of components in Arkham Horror.  The better a system you have for organizing them the better.  If you have things ready to go, the game can begin pretty quickly (within 10 minutes).  If you show up with all the components scattered throughout the box, it could easily take 30 minutes before everything is set up.  This gets much worse as you continue to add expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sE9i2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To a certain extent, adding expansions will slow down your game.  In addition to having more ground to cover, there are several different mechanics that get added that have to be accounted for.  Particularly with the large expansions (rifts with Kingsport, Deep Ones Rising track with Innsmouth).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're pretty experienced with the game.  With all the expansions we do 1-2 games/night in a five hour block.  The average night would be one game followed by a shorter filler game (Dominion or Chez Geek).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a decently prepped set without any expansion I would expect you can easily finish within 4 hours as long as at least one person is familiar with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the fastest game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre-game do these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preselect all characters, get everything they need in a separate plastic bag including specific and random items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle the decks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a Great Old One without complications (Azathoth will even prevent the final combat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the game begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign someone to drop clue tokens on the unstable locations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand out the characters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Figure out the starting player and draw a Mythos card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T17:22:12.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3148" CreationDate="2011-04-11T17:39:47.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, I would say that since the drawing of the event card is mandatory and the heal action is optional, the drawing of the event card happens first. However, the rules do say: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The town of Shadowbrook is divided &#xA;  into a number of spaces.  Each of these &#xA;  spaces allows the Hero to draw an Event &#xA;  card when Encountering the space as well &#xA;  as a special ability that can be used when &#xA;  Encountering the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every other named space &#xA;  has game text printed on the board.  To &#xA;  Encounter any of these spaces, follow the &#xA;  game text listed there.  You will notice that &#xA;  most of the Town spaces also have one or &#xA;  more special abilities which may be used &#xA;  while Encountering the Space (for instance, &#xA;  at the Doctor’s Office you may Heal and &#xA;  /or Cure a Curse in addition to the Draw &#xA;  an Event game text).  These Town space &#xA;  special abilities are always optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That kind of sounds like the intent of the special abilities may be to help deal with the event cards drawn during the encounter. If that's the interpretation, I'd rule that you can heal first, but that might be a bit of a stretch. &quot;Encountering the space&quot; seems to mean the entire interaction with the space, not just the event card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there isn't a definitive answer in anything I can find, I'd go with the rule-of-thumb that mandatory happens before optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T17:39:47.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:05:19.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I, too, have played multiple times and each time I got different results. One time we played for about 2 hours, while another time we played for well over 7 hours. It just depends on who you're playing the game with and how experienced they are at that game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T18:05:19.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2011-04-11T18:13:47.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an overpowering combo like that appears, you need a game-wide coalition to form, where players focus more on stomping the winner than growing their own empires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most overpowering combos gradually experience attrition, so the coalition gets to dissolve over time. Merchant Elves are exceptional because the coalition never gets to dissolve (unless, as Michael pointed out, Sorcerers manage to convert some Elven singletons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't necessarily bad, but it does mean the game will be dominated by a standard game theory defection scenario. If the coalition is strong enough, the players who 'defect' and see to their own empires win, but if too many players do that, the Elves win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T18:13:47.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3188" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:09:01.547" Score="3" ViewCount="5781" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are ready to move onto the Era of Gold, but are unsure about some of the rule changes in the theme game regarding the draw stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4:  Choosing the Starting Cards.  You don't draw your starting cards randomly from a stack like you've done in the Introductory Game.  Instead, beginning with the starting player, each player chooses a Basic Set draw stack and selects 3 cards for a starting hand.  You may not change the order of the draw stack.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean, each user selects a stack, looks at all the cards in the stack and selects the 3 they want start with?  And then returns the stack without reshuffling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do the Theme Set draw stacks work?  There is nothing in the manual about how players draw from them.  Do players have the option of drawing from them after their first turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1155" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-13T15:25:05.810" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:22:50.807" Title="The Rivals for Catan - Theme Game Draw Stacks" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2316" CreationDate="2011-04-11T19:56:26.890" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brikwars.com/rules/2005/quikwars.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quikwars, which is a simplified version of Brikwars&lt;/a&gt;, looks pretty easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1064" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T19:56:26.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3158" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:19:24.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror is one of the more difficult games to predict a length on, since it can accept up to 8 players and the way in which it is played makes such a big difference.  I've played with groups who approached the game as a min-max problem (basically how they approach Pandemic) and we were able to rip through a game in a couple hours, without too much trouble.  I've also played in a game with 6 players that tipped over into five hour territory and was probably about halfway done.  One thing that makes a huge difference is how much people are playing up to the theme.  If everybody is reading their events out and listening to what is happening to each other, it's going to be a very long game indeed.  If people are parallelizing actions and taking care of stuff on their own, it can move along smartly.  Add in variability for expansions and I can say that I'd expect a game of AH to last anywhere from two to twelve hours, depending on expansion choices, gamers and mood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T23:19:24.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2011-04-11T23:37:42.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying only money and victory cards should be considered the baseline to victory. A few terminals such as chapel or smithy will speed that process up.Attack cards will make this harder for others to do while giving you some benefit. It would also help if you told us which sets you were playing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2011-04-11T23:37:42.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3193" CreationDate="2011-04-12T01:20:13.857" Score="9" ViewCount="4716" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pieces are usually kept in the box and not even used that much. However, I took them out the other day to play and all the hex pieces were warped. How can I fix this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1158" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T03:49:12.110" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T03:49:12.110" Title="Fixing warped board pieces" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|components|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3192" CreationDate="2011-04-12T01:32:23.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to contact Mayfair Games -- doing a Google search turned up quite a few people with warped hex tiles as well, and the consensus was to contact Mayfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's a dead end, you can try flattening them with a heavy object, or glue them to some thicker cardstock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T01:32:23.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3195" CreationDate="2011-04-12T03:03:43.373" Score="15" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player who draws the Income Tax curse must discard an item.  Each other player must discard an item (or items) of at least as much value as the player who drew Income Tax.  If that player discards a Huge Rock, what must the other players discard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the rock has no value, is that equivalent to 0 gold?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the other players discard zero cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:38:39.617" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:38:39.617" Title="What happens if I use the Huge Rock to pay the Income Tax?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3194" CreationDate="2011-04-12T11:52:09.943" Score="16" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An item is any treasure card that has a GP value or no value in the bottom right corner.  In this case, yes, the equivalent to &quot;No Value&quot; is 0 gold.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; discard a card to satisfy Income Tax.  Since the Huge Rock has no value, you must discard at least one card with a value of at least 0, so basically any item will work (note that cards like Impressive Title don't even state &quot;No Value&quot;, so it's not an item).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T18:12:11.590" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T18:12:11.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3146" CreationDate="2011-04-12T18:21:16.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Descent, unlike Doom, is balanced towards the Heroes; I find rather odd you're having trouble. Unless the heroes have very bad power combinations, they shouldn't have any problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, a nice help for the Heroes is to draw more powers than they would be allowed, and choose which ones to keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2011-04-12T18:21:16.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:37:43.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As often as I play this game, there seems to be one single truth that emerges. There is no &quot;one country&quot; that is better than another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is solely based on who you're playing, their skill level, the luck of the dice, and your own strategy. I have been playing this game for a number of years (roughly 7) and I have seen every outcome of the game. I usually play total domination, that is, you must conquer two enemy capitals. I've played the 'monetary victory' and the 'victory city' victories, but I enjoy playing until there is nothing else to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen Russia conquer Berlin and Tokyo. I have seen U.K. take Tokyo, and I have seen Japan conquer the U.S. I have also seen Germany conquer Russia in 2 turns and then focus on London and take it within two more rounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, it all depends on the above things. My best friend and I play about once a week and every time there are different results. I win, he wins, we call a tie, whatever. We always randomly pick our countries and everything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you honestly think about it, the Russians have a lot of ground units, the Germans have tons of ground and air units. The U.K. has the most annoying position in the game while Japan has the best navy to start. The U.S. has too much money and is too far from the fight to immediately do anything. That's just my opinion though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite country, as well as my best country, is Japan... hands down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T03:37:43.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2248" CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:46:30.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own Axis and Allies 1984 original, the 2004 and 2009 revised editions, as well as the new Europe and Pacific games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new rules, new units, new everything make the game so much more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in Europe and Pacific, there are &quot;Harbors&quot; and &quot;Air Bases.&quot; These allow units that move from them to move one extra space. Let's say a fighter is in Hawaii. Fighters have a move of 4. If it leaves from an area with an &quot;Air Base&quot; however, its mobility is upped to 5. The same is true for bombers (and the new tactical bomber). These bases add one movement to any unit. Harbors allow all ships leaving the harbor to move at a 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more info on these versions, please comment back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T03:46:30.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:51:58.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Japan does not attack at Pearl Harbor, then the U.S. fleet has enough to hurt Japan seriously. When I am Japan, I usually spend my entire naval force (all that can reach) to Pearl. That way, the U.S. will either decide that it isn't worth it to keep the navy in the Pacific, or they will fight you and Germany will have a chance to do something significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the U.S. focuses all of its attention on Germany and moving into the European theater (while keeping defensive units in the Western U.S.) then the game will be over shortly. Japan is not really a threat to the U.S. in all honesty. Japan needs to keep its navy strong and the only way to do that is to eliminate the U.S. from the Pacific. If the U.S. player is smart, they won't care. If they aren't then Japan needs to be ready for a mean hammer to come down from the U.S. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T03:51:58.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-13T03:57:33.473" Score="5" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I sat down one day and made up some &quot;Secret Missions&quot; for all of the countries in the board game Axis and Allies. For example, if Japan takes Western United States, they are immune from counter-attack for one turn. Also, if Russia takes Berlin within 3 turns, they receive an additional 15 IPC's from the bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were 3 Secret Missions for each country, but I want to add more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of you have any more suggestions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please post them here as answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the Secret Missions! Sorry it took so long!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russia (U.S.S.R.)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Take Berlin by Round 5 and gain 25 extra IPC's from the bank&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take 3 German territories in ONE round and get 2 free tanks in any territory you control that has a factory (paying attention to the production limit)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take 3 Japanese territories and get 3 free infantry in ANY territory you own (not including the ones you took that turn)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germany&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Take London by Round 2 and gain 1/2 of the air units you used in the attack (rounding down to the nearest whole number. Example: you send 5 planes, you get 2 extra)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Control Algeria, Libya, Anglo-Egypt Sudan, Trans-Jordan, and Persia for ONE whole round and get 2 free tanks in Anglo-Egypt Sudan&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take all of Africa by Round 3 and get a Battleship in the Mediterranean sea; take all of Africa by Round 4 and get a Cruiser in the Mediterranean  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;United Kingdom&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Destroy 3 Japanese boats and get 1 free Cruiser in a sea zone bordering one of your territories&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Destory all German boats (leaving none on the board) and get 3 free Fighters in the U.K.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take Western Europe by round 2 and all of the units left in W.E. gain a +1 to their defense for the first round of marriage  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Japan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Do the &quot;Pearl Harbor&quot; attack and lose no units and get 2 free Fighters in Japan&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take China AND India by Round 3 and gain one free tank in any Japanese territory in Asia (excpet the ones just taken)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take the Western United States and become immune from counter-attack for one turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;United States&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Take both North African territories AND one European territory by Round 4 and get 2 free Artillery in any territory you own that is NOT in Europe (except ones you have just taken)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Liberate an ally's capital and gain 10 IPC's from the bank&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Take one island every round for 3 consecutive rounds and gain one Transport and 2 Infantry in Hawaii (if you own it; if not, put it in the Western U.S.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastEditorUserId="1154" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T06:42:11.353" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T13:14:44.367" Title="Secret Mission Axis and Allies" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2011-04-13T11:41:17.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germany holding all of Africa&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of a German turn. Perhaps with the reward of twice the IPC draw from African territories at the end of that turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The axis getting the &lt;strong&gt;US below 32 IPCs&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of a turn, which requires them to take Alaska, Hawaii, Brazil, or some other non-Chinese territory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of one-time IPC bonus for one or both axis powers if they meet up (i.e. &lt;strong&gt;German and Japanese units in a single territory&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to &lt;strong&gt;produce units in a captured factory&lt;/strong&gt; on the first turn it was captured&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-04-15T17:11:36.983" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T17:11:36.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2011-04-13T20:47:18.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy a small set of different cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; necessarily mean you need a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/381/what-are-good-standard-tactics-for-dominion/1307#1307&quot;&gt;small deck&lt;/a&gt;. What I mean is pick roughly 3-4 cards to buy and only buy those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only buy from a small set of cards then those cards will more frequently pop when you draw and you will have consistent gameplay from one hand to the next. If you have 8 different cards in your deck then you will find each hand will have random cards, which is almost never a good thing given synergies don't exist between every pair of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in one game I only bought Torturer, Festival, and Throne Room. I got consistent play from one hand to the next (Festival for actions, apply Throne Room to Torturer for draw, repeat). To accommodate filling my deck with Provinces I simply bought more of those 3 cards to increase the size of my deck, and thus reduce the number of Provinces I get with each hand while maintaining consistent gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1153" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-04-13T20:47:18.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3208" CreationDate="2011-04-14T00:44:13.200" Score="7" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Race for the Galaxy with a friend of mine for quite a while, and I've noticed the game seems to be going more and more in favor of a blitzkrieg strategy of conquering as many planets as possible as quickly as possible. Is there a valid produce/consume strategy to counteract this? It seems like it takes far longer to develop a good economy, and even at 2x VP the combat-oriented player still has the advantage of early gains made in prestige, granting them VP and a card every turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="98" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T05:31:26.560" Title="Good produce/consume strategy in RftG" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3207" CreationDate="2011-04-14T05:31:26.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One problem you may be facing is that you're trying to play this game strategically.  RftG is must more tactical than, say, Puerto Rico, since your choices of developments and planets is determined by the luck of the draw than being available for purchase.  If you 'set out' to do a produce consume before the game's begun you're putting yourself at a severe disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second thing that may be going wrong is that an engine strategy has a key point where you need to stop building the engine and start running it.  If you feel like you need too much time to build the engine up, perhaps you're building too big of an engine.  Aim for a smaller engine, and then work it that extra couple of times.  You'd be surprised at much even a 20% more 'efficient' engine costs.  Often it's two or more extra produce/consume cycles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T05:31:26.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="194" CreationDate="2011-04-14T09:28:03.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are products like SprayFix, which cover paper with a protective varnish. It prevents dirt from attaching to paper surfaces. This is used often with games using counters, to protect them from wearing. I think you can apply it to board surfaces perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T09:28:03.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3188" CreationDate="2011-04-14T12:22:09.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does this mean, each user selects a&#xA;  stack, looks at all the cards in the&#xA;  stack and selects the 3 they want&#xA;  start with? And then returns the stack&#xA;  without reshuffling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's how I always play it.  I don't see any other way to interpret that rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do the Theme Set draw stacks work?&#xA;  There is nothing in the manual about&#xA;  how players draw from them. Do players&#xA;  have the option of drawing from them&#xA;  after their first turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for drawing cards on p10 state, when drawing cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... randomly draw cards from the tops of the draw stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's not entirely clear from this rule, I think you can always choose which stack to draw from.&#xA;Also when exchanging cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw the top card from a draw stack of your choice,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose a draw stack and look at all of its cards.  Then take 1 card of your choice from that stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these is restricted to only the basic set stacks, so you can draw from or search theme set stacks too.  The only restriction is at the start of the game, when you choose your three starting cards from a basic set draw stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T12:22:09.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3230" CreationDate="2011-04-14T13:31:51.827" Score="16" ViewCount="10975" Body="&lt;p&gt;A dice tower is a useful tool for keeping your dice from ruining your game (physically, that is).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point to:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Good dice towers, and possibly places to acquire them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;or&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Resources of information on how to build one yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T16:23:18.640" Title="Advice on acquiring / constructing Dice Towers" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:28:31.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building one is probably your best bet, as they're pretty easy to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The design is basically a tower with a hole out front that spills dice into a little pan. The tower has projections on the inside to scramble dice around so that you get random rolls. I would do this using an arrangement of parallel pins that cross the inside of the tower semi-randomly. The tower also needs a slanted bottom so that dice roll into the pan after falling down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're feeling ambitious and you have a saw hanging around then you can make one out of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/109113/my-attempt-in-building-a-dice-tower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wood&lt;/a&gt;. Balsa wood is probably best because it is both light and easy to cut, albeit expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an less involved project then get some card stock and print a dice tower design on it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v24/Ramrider/?action=view&amp;amp;current=dice_tower_page-1_plain.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;), or cut your own with an X-acto knife. Fold, add a little bit of glue, and voila!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to save money and you've got some Lego sitting around there's a great post showing off some dice towers &lt;a href=&quot;http://seriouslyboard.co.nz/entertainment/dice-tower-design-lego-style/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1153" LastEditorUserId="1153" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T02:09:39.167" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T02:09:39.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-14T15:35:13.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dice Towers are great devices, and used to be hard to come by.  There are now a lot of sellers online that you can buy one from.  I'll list some here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vixentorgames.com/subcategory.asp?category=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VixenTor Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dicetower.20m.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No Name 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nobleknight.com/ViewProducts.asp_Q_ProductLineID_E_2137421060_A_ManufacturerID_E_2145083630_A_CategoryID_E_4_A_GenreID_E_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Noble Knight Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluepantherllc.com/BP3_DT.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Panther&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.etsy.com/listing/69149605/small-wooden-dice-tower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;kevinscabins&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.minidicetowers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MiniDiceTowers.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.litkoaero.com/categories/Dice-Towers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Litko&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-04-14T16:53:20.023" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T16:53:20.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:11:28.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plan for DIY:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.io.com/~beckerdo/games/articles/DiceTower.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.io.com/~beckerdo/games/articles/DiceTower.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link was broken, here's an archived version:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20110605140833/http://www.io.com/~beckerdo/games/articles/DiceTower.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20110605140833/http://www.io.com/~beckerdo/games/articles/DiceTower.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1138" LastEditorUserId="7502" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T16:23:18.640" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T16:23:18.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="381" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:17:20.383" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Identify the combo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two kinds of Dominion decks: Combo decks, and non-combo decks. The line is definitely fuzzy, but in general, it comes down to whether you are aiming to win through a particular set of powerful interactions, or just by having a lot of good cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither kind of deck is inherently better, but combo is much scarier. If you go into a game with +Actions, +Cards, and Bridge, and you just kinda meander around buying various good cards until you can buy a Province every turn, you're going to suddenly lose from your 3-province lead when your opponent hits critical mass and combos out, making provinces cost $2 and buying the last five at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, it's important at the very beginning of a game to identify any available combos, and decide whether you'll be going for them or whether you think you can beat them by building for pure value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go for a combo, your card valuations have to change -- if you're trying to assemble Torturer/Native Village (and you really, really should be if those cards both show up) you're going to have to pass up that nice-looking $4 for a measly $2 NV a bunch of the time. Caravan is a fabulous card, and maybe your deck should have a couple, but it doesn't help you play three torturers in one turn, and that's where your value is really coming from in this deck. If you already have four torturers and only 2 Native Villages, you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to spend your $5 on another NV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some common combos to be on the lookout for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge -- The mere presence of this card isn't enough, but it's enabled by too many things to list. You need a way to play four-six of them in a turn, which means plenty of card draw, and either plenty of actions or Throne Room/King's Court. It can be hard to get going, but when it does, maybe the most explosive interaction in the game. See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20110322-004003-ea1b52af.html&quot;&gt;example game&lt;/a&gt; from Isotropic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torturer and +Actions -- If this is present, it's almost always too powerful to ignore. Forcing your opponent to choose between multiple curses or a 1 or 0 card hand every turn is just disgusting. &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20110217-033633-2ac812f3.html&quot;&gt;Example game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warehouse/Treasure Map -- Normally a bit too unreliable to be really good, Treasure Map becomes amazing in the presence of fast deck cycling that leaves you with an action. Cellar is also great for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Venture and good trashing -- A deck whose only treasure is five ventures and a gold is pretty unstoppable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remodel/Gold and Expand/$5s -- Spam lots of remodels, remodel some of them into Golds, then remodel the Golds into Provinces... and then remodel the Provinces into Provinces to end the game once you've gotten ahead and no longer have any buying power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King's Court/Throne Room chains -- There are openings to a turn scarier than King's Courting a King's Court. The best part of chaining these action duplicators is that you don't need +2 Actions cards to go off -- you can either net Actions by duplication Great Hall, etc, or you can just forgo +Actions altogether: if you can consistently KC+KC+Smithy, you'll draw 9 cards and get to triplicate two of them (and hopefully at least one was another KC...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figure out what you're going to do with all those green cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a plan for how to keep your deck quality from degrading drastically after you start buying Provinces can make a huge difference. Just because you draw 8 two times in a row doesn't mean you ever will again, now that you've reshuffled with those provinces, and if you stall out and feel the need to grab duchies to keep up, it just gets worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Island, Bishop, Salvager, Remodel, Apprentice, Native Village + top of deck manipulation, Vault, Cellar, Warehouse, Minion, and Venture are all cards that can help with this in different ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Figure out if it's possible to get multiple VP sources in one turn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a spread with no +buys, no +VP chips, and no card gain, (and to a lesser degree, no cursing and no Outpost), it's almost impossible to catch up from behind. In these games, you want to consistently get to 8 in a turn AND NOT MORE and start buying Provinces more or less as soon as possible. Be sure you identify this feature of the spread right away, so you know whether it's safe to try and build up resources to the point where you can get 2 Provinces per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T17:17:20.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3161" CreationDate="2011-04-14T17:52:25.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info&quot;&gt;magiccards.info&lt;/a&gt; has a very nice price chart that compares prices at various conditions across many online retailers for every card. It's also 1000x more useful than Gatherer for searching for and browsing through Magic cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T17:52:25.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:15:04.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SINK THE CONVOYS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the German turn, after the first full turn, if there are no transports in the Atlantic Ocean, Germany receives 2d6 IPCs from Britain (representing the economic damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T19:15:04.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-14T19:44:22.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a nice instructable about making one from foamcore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Formboard-Dice-Tower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Formboard-Dice-Tower/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a papercraft GM screen with 2 dice towers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fatdragongames.com/fdg0070.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fatdragongames.com/fdg0070.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T19:44:22.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-14T21:22:47.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used several dice towers over the years, but now I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001HY8GZE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dice tray&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IJKGq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It has the main advantages of a tower&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the dice in a confined area&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protecting your game surface/table from damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While avoiding many problems that I have with Dice Towers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excessive noise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasional Jamming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tower blocks line of sight to the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tray can handle larger dice than towers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, I just love rolling the dice from my own hands!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-04-14T21:22:47.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2011-04-15T04:59:08.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The scapegoat&lt;/strong&gt; - If there is a tied vote and the scapegoat is still alive they are lynched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T04:59:08.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-15T16:06:29.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a good - if slightly tentacle-heavy - dice tower available in papercraft print-and-fold PDF from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;amp;cPath=55&amp;amp;products_id=78&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Worldworks Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T16:06:29.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:32:04.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting idea. Usually for those situations to occur something terribly wrong has happened to the opponent. ie. Japan being in Western USA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granting even more bonus via IPCs would only widen that gap. So I would be extremely careful how you implement these &quot;flavour&quot; rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even consider the reverse and give a bonus to a player who took a bad beat. Not to reward poor strategy but to balance out the game if it is completely one sided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ie. Britain gets 10 IPCs if there are no allied controlled territories in Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a thought&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="449" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:32:04.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="602" CreationDate="2011-04-15T20:37:45.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about taking the negotiation and alliances mechanics into the realm of abstract strategy games? Years ago, I heard about a Shogi variant for three players with rules that automatically trigger an alliance whenever two players gang up on the third. When the alliance forms, the victim gets extra powers to defend himself. Today, I stumbled across a detailed description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sannin_shogi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sannin Shogi&lt;/a&gt;. It sounds interesting as a very different approach to building alliances in a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-04-15T20:37:45.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-16T02:31:13.207" Score="3" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only version of &lt;strong&gt;Empires in Arms&lt;/strong&gt; that I have ever seen is from 1986 by Avalon Hill.  The game was originally released by the Australian Design Group in 1983.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've often seen comments that Avalon Hill extensively rewrote at least a few sections as well as added most of sections 10-12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know exactly what rules were changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0SrND.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T18:08:19.833" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T03:26:05.857" Title="What are the rules differences in Empires in Arms?" Tags="|empires-in-arms|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3229" CreationDate="2011-04-16T03:45:31.710" Score="15" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the basic strength of double pawns is that it may open up a rank for a rook, and that the weakness is that the pawns can no longer defend one another.  Other than an obvious material advantage, what are the long-term strategic factors to consider when you're faced with the decision of doubling your pawns?  I know that specific openings accept doubled pawns, but beyond memorizing openings, what should influence my decision?  For example, are doubled pawns more acceptable in the center than near the edge of the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T21:32:15.143" Title="What factors should be considered before doubling pawns?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3226" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-16T08:59:51.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;ASL is a detailed game system for two or more players (with solitaire play also possible). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Components include the ASL Rulebook and various modules. ASL modules provide the standard equipment for playing ASL, including geomorphic mapboards and counters. The mapboards are divided into hexagons to regulate fire and movement, and depict generic terrain that can represent different historical locations. The counters are cardboard pieces that depict squads of soldiers, crews, individual leaders, support weapons, heavy weapons, and vehicles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is currently developed and maintained by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.multimanpublishing.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Multi-Man Publishing&lt;/a&gt; under license of Avalon Hill Games Inc., which is a Hasbro affiliate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other resources of information:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Squad_Leader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ASL Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/243/advanced-squad-leader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ASL BoardGameGeek page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.gamesquad.com/forumdisplay.php?30-Advanced-Squad-Leader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ASL GameSquad forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="3518" LastEditDate="2011-04-16T14:09:28.757" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T14:09:28.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3227" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-16T08:59:51.383" Score="0" Body="Advanced Squad Leader (ASL) is a tactical-level board wargame, that simulates actions of approximately company or battalion size in World War II." OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="3518" LastEditDate="2011-04-16T14:09:32.097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T14:09:32.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-16T17:38:40.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess originated from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaturanga&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chaturanga&lt;/a&gt; and almost all well-know military strategies used by ancient Indian civilizations had their roots from Chaturanga. Chess is all about planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1176" LastActivityDate="2011-04-16T17:38:40.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3225" CreationDate="2011-04-16T18:00:50.047" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jeremy Silman, author of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/Jeremy-Silman/e/B000APH0YE/ref=sr_ntt_srch_lnk_1?qid=1302976649&quot;&gt;many books&lt;/a&gt; on chess strategy (as well as my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1890085103&quot;&gt;favorite endgame book&lt;/a&gt;) always pushes &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; thinking in terms of static strengths - &lt;em&gt;having a bishop over a knight&lt;/em&gt; - vs. weaknesses - &lt;em&gt;having doubled pawns&lt;/em&gt; - but rather in terms of &lt;strong&gt;imbalances&lt;/strong&gt;.  After all, in a closed position, a knight will do better than a bishop, and you mentioned yourself one way doubled pawns can actually be an &lt;em&gt;advantage&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the questions you should really be asking yourself are, &lt;em&gt;What are the imbalances in the position?  What new imbalances will this capture create?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For doubled-pawns, the common imbalances are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Material&lt;/strong&gt;.  Since you must capture to get doubled pawns, you'll be gaining &lt;em&gt;(or recapturing)&lt;/em&gt; material.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Space&lt;/strong&gt;.  As you mentioned, moving the pawn out of the way opens a file/diagonal for your pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Central &lt;em&gt;(key square)&lt;/em&gt; control&lt;/strong&gt;.  When capturing towards the center, you'll now have an extra pawn to attack the center - or, when capturing away from the center, you lose some of that control.  Note that if the capturing pawn is a central pawn, you may &lt;em&gt;gain&lt;/em&gt; more central control, due to the open file/diagonal.&#xA;Also, later in the game other squares may become important to control.  You should take these into consideration as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pawn Structure&lt;/strong&gt;.  Doubling your pawns tends to weaken your pawn structure, &lt;em&gt;especially if they are isolated&lt;/em&gt;.  Doubled-isolated pawns are easy targets for your opponents, so expect to lose at least one of those pawns later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, and most importantly, &lt;strong&gt;it's rarely a matter of a single move&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning other imbalances will come into play as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I move here, there's a possibility he'll move here, leading to a series of moves in which my pawns will be doubled and he'll gain the double-bishops, but I'll have the initiative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every line of play, existing and potential, you will always need to compare the imbalances that favor you to the imbalances that favor your opponent, and ask yourself:  &lt;em&gt;&quot;Do the imbalances in the position favor me over my opponent?  How do I make the existing imbalances favor me even more?  Can I create even more favorable imbalances for myself in this position?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;  Learning how to answer these questions is one of the most important skills in getting better at chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-04-17T21:32:15.143" LastActivityDate="2011-04-17T21:32:15.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3211" CreationDate="2011-04-17T02:33:13.023" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary goals of a dice tower being&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping the dice on the table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improving the randomization by reducing the ability to manipulate the dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several good designs, however, the basic principle to check for: it should have at least 3 slanted faces, and all the slanted faces should be covered in felt or corduroy. Friction is your friend, here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape is almost always an L. Let's compare it to a cowboy boot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The toe is opened up so that you can see the landing zone. It needs about a 3/4&amp;quot; to 1&amp;quot; high rim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The heel has a slanting plate, angled to kick the dice out to the toe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The shaft of the boot: deflectors.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plates: The shaft has anywhere from 0 to 5 angled plates within, usually about 30° to 45° downward, angled to toss the dice about in the tower. I don't use ones without at least 2 additional plates. Most have a top plate, angling down to the front, and a second plate below angled down to the back. The plates should cover about half to 2/3 the cross section. Better designs may have left and right angled plates, or even a narrow center triangle, to toss the dice side to side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dowels: if plates are too much trouble, dowels can be used instead. The dowels should be about 3/8&amp;quot; to 1/2&amp;quot; hardwood, and are placed in levels. Top is usually a front to back and a side to side cross, centered. 1.5&amp;quot;-2&amp;quot; down, 2 off center parallel; a crossing set another 1.5&amp;quot; to 2&amp;quot; down. Taller ones may have additional crosses, or even run dowels corner to corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plastic, Foamcore, Bare Wood, Felt, or Corduroy? What do I cover the thing with?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only the inside of the tower and the tops of the deflectors need covering if you opt to do so, and dowel deflectors can have slipcovers rather than glued down ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bare wood is noisy, and some dice will slide flat along it. It's acceptable, but not preferred.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Felt: cheap, easy, reduces noise, no nap, so it produces less hang potential than corduroy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Corduroy: has a clear nap. This will help catch and tumble the dice. The nap, however, should be arranged to put the lines at a downward angle of 20°-40°, so that the dice also get some sideways motion and better tumble. Probably the quietest of the mentioned materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bare plastic: extremely noisy, very slick. Least tumble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foamcore: as slick as plastic, but not as noisy, but often puts more bounce on the dice. A foamcore sole of the boot can easily result in dice bouncing OUT of a low toe. (personal experience.) Also, damaged by water, unless sealed with paint or glue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is another design for a dice tower I've seen used: spiral staircase. Each stair was angled 30° down, and it went clockwise with 1/4&amp;quot; drops off each stair. Being bare wood, it was rather noisy, but it also was very random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plans &amp;amp; howto's&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The plans at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Formboard-Dice-Tower/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Formboard-Dice-Tower/&lt;/a&gt; are decent enough; it's a short 2 deflector boot-style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/13307/dicebox-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/13307/dicebox-pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Plans for a 2 deflector tower. Annotated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.io.com/%7Ebeckerdo/games/articles/HirstDiceTower/HirstDiceTower.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.io.com/~beckerdo/games/articles/HirstDiceTower/HirstDiceTower.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Building with plaster molded &amp;quot;stones&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://webspace.webring.com/people/xc/crosstowngames/crosstowngamesdicetowerplans.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://webspace.webring.com/people/xc/crosstowngames/crosstowngamesdicetowerplans.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Another set of plans for a square boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.io.com/%7Ebeckerdo/games/articles/DiceTower.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.io.com/~beckerdo/games/articles/DiceTower.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;A square castle design, using 3 deflectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.geeknews.net/2008/01/02/very-cool-diy-dice-tower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.geeknews.net/2008/01/02/very-cool-diy-dice-tower&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Spiral path in square tower; wood core with polycarbonate sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;commercially made towers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessex.com/dice%20accessories/Dice_Accessories.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chessex.com/dice%20accessories/Dice_Accessories.htm&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;I have one of these! It's noisy as a monkey house. But it's good and random, tho' it lacks side-to-side deflectors. the toe plate is a little short, however. Also, it's friction fit, so it can be taken down and stored flat. This is great for the GM on the go... unless you space where you shelved it!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/625539/gruumsh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/625539/gruumsh&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;the same clear boot after adding some felt to the deflectors...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluepantherllc.com/BP3_DT.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.bluepantherllc.com/BP3_DT.htm&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Kits to construct both small and large dice towers... just need &amp;quot;... glue, rubber bands and about 10 minutes...&amp;quot; The mini is a &amp;quot;land in drawer&amp;quot; mode, and the larger ones are a variation on the boot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uniquedicetowers.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.uniquedicetowers.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Assembled dice towers started on Kickstarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternatives to the tower&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The dice tray:&lt;/strong&gt; a dice tray of some kind (we've often used the box lid) controls the dice, but doesn't add much to the randomization unless requiring a bounce off the back wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dice Cups:&lt;/strong&gt; all the material issues for towers apply to dice cups. Plus, as dice stacking displays show, it's possible for the skilled to manipulate them pretty well, tho' it's still MUCH harder than in a tray or tower. It does, however, take some practice to shake-flip-slam so that the dice don't roll across the table. Again, good ones are felt or corduroy lined (my good one is). An inepensive one can be made by taking a soup can (not a poptop, tho), carefully filing the edge smooth (steal your sister's emery boards!). Then line with felt or corduroy, gluing it to the inside. Use some more, or some inexpensive leather, to cover the outside. This gets you a lunch &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a dice cup for under $15...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T09:21:31.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3232" CreationDate="2011-04-17T23:30:34.390" Score="30" ViewCount="1959" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason for this is that from the center of the board, your pieces&#xA;have quicker access to the other parts of the board. Another is that&#xA;your pieces often attack a larger number of squares. What others are there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often find myself having control of the center, only to end up&#xA;thinking &quot;Ok, now what?&quot;. &#xA;What advantages do I get, and how can I&#xA;make something useful out of these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1181" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T18:04:31.620" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T18:04:31.620" Title="Why is it of high importance to control the center of the board in Chess?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2011-04-18T01:15:41.023" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the points you made, controlling the center means that your opponent will then have to form his or her attack on the wings.  Think of not only what it does for your pieces but what it means for your opponent's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Picture the movement pattern of a knight - if you control the center, the knight can attack all eight squares.  If your opponent's knights are forced along the side of the board they're likely going to be in the first, second, seventh or eight columns (files).  That means they're less effective. (&quot;A knight on the rim is grim.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have control of the center, it's usually the time to start planning an attack.  Has your opponent castled?  If so, start getting your pieces aligned to make an attack on the appropriate side.  If you're playing more of a positional game it's time to start marching forward, taking up real estate on the board and placing your pieces and pawns onto squares that make it difficult for your opponent to move/develop his or her pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1183" LastEditorUserId="1183" LastEditDate="2011-04-18T01:24:38.657" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T01:24:38.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2011-04-18T08:42:27.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also consider that your opponent thrives to control the center, so you controlling it derails his strategy which gives you an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had opening books, ending books, and training/practice regimens centered (pun intended) on flanking strategies rather than strategies for controlling the center, people'd push for controlling the flanks and not think about the center so much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the general premise holds. Chess pieces have easier movement and larger fields of influence when in the center as compared to being on the flanks.&#xA;A knight for example, when sitting on a center square, directly covers 8 squares. When sitting on an edge square, it covers only 4 squares.&#xA;For other pieces this is even more pronounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1185" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T08:42:27.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3263" CreationDate="2011-04-18T11:12:14.953" Score="16" ViewCount="1904" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does it mean to have a positional game, or to play a positional game?&#xA;What is the opposite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1181" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T16:43:02.567" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T17:27:51.260" Title="What is a positional game in chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2011-04-18T11:22:04.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A positional game in chess is one where you try to control the territory on the board.  Positional players develop pieces and go for king safety early, play for good pawn structure, and pay attention to how many squares their pieces control on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opposite of a positional game is a tactical game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="915" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T11:22:04.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-18T16:04:36.187" Score="19" ViewCount="18589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a card-based rpg game and I'm looking for an equivalent to &lt;a href=&quot;http://lulu.com&quot;&gt;http://lulu.com&lt;/a&gt; but for printing online cards on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card would be either playing cards like Magic or similar, or Tarot cards (big cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? Any feedbacks on the suggested services?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1187" LastActivityDate="2024-03-27T10:17:16.653" Title="On-Demand Cards Deck printing service?" Tags="|playing-cards|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2011-04-18T16:53:28.830" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every position has both positional &lt;em&gt;(&quot;theory&quot;)&lt;/em&gt; aspects and tactical aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Positional aspects&lt;/em&gt; would include the various &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3225/what-factors-should-be-considered-before-doubling-pawns/3229#3229&quot;&gt;imbalances&lt;/a&gt; in the position:  pawn structure, space, center control, knights-vs-bishops, and pretty much anything else that would generally fall under the category &lt;em&gt;&quot;theory&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tactical aspects&lt;/em&gt; are just what they sound like:  tactics.  I move here, he moves here, and in 4 moves I win his bishop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;positional game&lt;/em&gt; is one that is primarily dominated by positional aspects.  Of course, every game has aspects of both, but in positional games the theory is much more pronounced.  I hear the term &lt;em&gt;&quot;positional game&quot;&lt;/em&gt; especially often in conjunction with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mychessblog.com/types-of-centers-and-how-to-deal-with-those/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;closed center&lt;/a&gt; - a game in which pawns occupy the center, so attacks have to be mounted on the flanks (sides of the board), usually with pawns rather than pieces.  These games tend to be slower and less intense; it is not uncommon for a player to spend half-a-dozen moves or more moving his knight to its optimal position before pushing a pawn one square.  Because of this, many players consider positional/closed-center games &lt;strong&gt;boring&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Positional game&quot; may also refer to a game where an early endgame was reached, causing most of the game to be dominated by endgame theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tactical games&lt;/em&gt;, on the other hand, are dominated by tactics.  For example, see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two_Knights_Defense,_Fried_Liver_Attack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fried Liver Attack&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_Gambit#Main_variations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Danish Gambit&lt;/a&gt;, which always lead to very tactical games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T16:53:28.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2011-04-18T17:07:13.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Artscow.com is the site I always hear about. I've never used it but it's constantly mentioned on boardgamegeek.com as the place to go for printing custom cards. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/card/multi-purpose-cards-rectangle-394&quot;&gt;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/card/multi-purpose-cards-rectangle-394&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1126" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T17:07:13.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-18T19:29:43.363" Score="2" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this question, Russia and Prussia start at peace.  The sequence of events is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Month 1&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prussia declares war on Mecklenburg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russia gains control of Mecklenburg - Russia does not DOW Prussia in support of the minor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During its land move Russia puts a depot with garrison in Mecklenburg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prussia moves a corp into Mecklenburg and drops a garrison in Lubeck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next Month&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russia Declares war on Prussia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are the forces in Mecklenburg forced to fight immediately?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T20:02:39.047" Title="Do opposing forces immediately fight upon a Declaration of War?" Tags="|empires-in-arms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-18T20:14:08.287" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decision trees and basic understand of prediction and pruning are direct applications of Chess. The ability to distinguish useful choices and options from wasted time is incredibly useful. This principle can be abstracted and applied to many forms of decision making; optimization; estimation; prediction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moving value systems. When your opponent considers a space important you may not be able to understand &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; but the fact that your opponent cares is enough to start caring about the same position. This is applicable to economics; business.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice and gambits. Using temporary setbacks for larger gains is a fundamental strategy that can be applied to most contests &amp;mdash; especially those involving race conditions or territory control.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Motion and movement. Each piece has its own rule system and the player must guide these movement rules to form a cohesive army. Learning to make a composition of these pieces and their potential movements is applicable to many tactical games or environments involving varied mechanics or rule systems. It also helps teach using complicated interactions to create solutions to problems that the individual pieces or rules themselves could not solve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mirrored responses. The identical white vs. black setup has been studied to such a degree it is an excellant example of how seemingly identical situations have drastically different results.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list goes on and on. In addition to these, the basic problem solving skills and memorization required to compete at Chess are transferable to any similar medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="970" LastActivityDate="2011-04-18T20:14:08.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2011-04-19T01:20:10.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For small quantities (for example during beta testing), you can print using any photo-printing service. Two cards per 4x6 photo is a reasonable size, they're durable enough for a couple of games at least, and super-cheap. For even pilot production, you'd want a different solution, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T01:20:10.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3244" CreationDate="2011-04-19T04:02:54.483" Score="3" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This question is related to the World of Warcraft Trading Card Game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Hunter, no allies out, and in my hand is a Frost Trap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ac3HL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Frost Trap&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks with Himul Longstrider, who has War Stomp. He wants to target my hero with the War Stomp power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoKqC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Himul Longstrider&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will my hero be exhausted before I am able to pay the cost of Frost Trap?  Put another way, does War Stomp exhaust my hero before my hero is &quot;defending,&quot; thus preventing me from paying its cost by exhausting my hero?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T01:03:52.977" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T01:03:52.977" Title="Does War Stomp exhaust me before I am the defender?" Tags="|wow-tcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2011-04-19T06:29:53.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are we talking testing, demonstration or production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is just for testing gameplay I suggest you go for an even cheaper solution than Mark suggested. Assuming you some other cards in that size then just print yours on normal paper and sleeve them together with the real playing cards. At this stage all you need is a cheep way to test out potentially numerous revisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I recently discovered a card game by the name of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/58281/summoner-wars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Summoner Wars&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. It is self published by the designer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/12953/colby-dauch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Colby Dauch&lt;/a&gt;) using some card printing service (in China I think). You could ask him what service he uses or could recommend. You know, from designer to designer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-04-20T06:44:43.907" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T06:44:43.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3242" CreationDate="2011-04-19T14:55:20.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to answers on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.wowtcg.com/showthread.php?t=2764&amp;amp;highlight=stomp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wowtcg.com forums&lt;/a&gt;, War Stomp triggers in two different places, depending on whether the character with War Stomp is attacking or defending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If attacking, then War Stomp triggers at the beginning of the Attack Window, just after the attacker exhausts for that attack.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Since this happens before the Protect Point, you can exhaust a protector before they can protect with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If defending, then War Stomp triggers at the beginning of the Defend Window, just after the Protect Point.&#xA;  You cannot use War Stomp while defending to stop the current attack, but you can exhaust another character to stop them from attacking that turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upshot of this is that when you are attacked by an ally with War Stomp, the attacker can exhaust your hero before the Protect Point, when you are still just the &lt;strong&gt;proposed defender.&lt;/strong&gt; Since you're not yet the defender, you can't respond by exhausting your hero to pay Frost Trap's cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-04-19T15:00:25.463" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T15:00:25.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3249" CreationDate="2011-04-19T16:35:11.307" Score="12" ViewCount="3093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group does like a bit of Bang!, but one of the problems we have with it is this: there's no reliable way to guess how long a game of it is going to take, which, combined with the fact that players can get knocked out very early on, means that sometimes it goes on and on long past the point where some people in the room or even still playing are fed up with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, can your gunfighter elect to do the decent thing and shoot themselves in the head to spare themselves the misery?  More importantly, if you shoot yourself from behind a Barrel, do you get to draw to see if your barrel protects you from damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's been a while since I last asked a question here, so I'm glad to be getting back into the fray with an issue as complex and important as this one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T20:58:50.790" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T18:40:35.000" Title="Can You Shoot Yourself in Bang?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3245" CreationDate="2011-04-19T18:05:08.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bang.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&amp;amp;t=488#wrap&quot;&gt;message board post&lt;/a&gt; by the Designer of Bang!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As I said, the &quot;no-killing-yourself&quot; rule is the official one to prevent unfairy behaviours in tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, if you sure to play with fair people, you can allow self-shot, which adds strategic elements to the game as well (think of Bart Cassidy, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T18:05:08.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3247" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-04-19T23:03:03.097" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-04-19T23:03:03.097" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T23:03:03.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3248" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-04-19T23:03:03.097" Score="0" Body="Claustrophobia is a 2-player asymmetrical tactical boardgame by Croc. It is set in the Hell Dorado universe and takes place in the sewers beneath New Jerusalem. It features conflicts between a small force of initially-strong but constantly attrited Humans and an initially-weak force of demons that grows continually  stronger and is virtually unlimited in size." OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-04-19T23:26:11.333" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T23:26:11.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3245" CreationDate="2011-04-19T23:40:21.410" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get yourself shot by playing a Duel and then not responding if the person you dueling with discards a BANG! Besides that and Dynamite, I don't know of other ways to hurt yourself with your own cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are other ways to solve your problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Problem of Player Elimination: Add the unofficial BANG! expansion, Death Mesa, to the game. In this expansion, dead players continue on as ghosts, draw from a specialized deck, and influence who wins (all ghosts, regardless of role, can still achieve victory). Visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/p/death-mesa-expansion.html&quot;&gt;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/p/death-mesa-expansion.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Problem of BANG! Dragging On: Give BANG! an internal clock through adding one of the following house rules:&#xA;-  Play only with 3 life point characters. If you have Dodge City, this gives you 7 characters; The Bullet, 8 characters; with Wild West Show, 9. Or make all 4 life point characters have 3 life points and only play with them.&#xA;- Players can shoot as many players as they want per turn (given distance constraints), but they can only fire 1 BANG! at each player per turn.&#xA;- If things are really getting slow, you can impose a new rule after a certain amount of rounds: Beer and/or Missed! are not reshuffled into the deck. They are placed in a separate discard pile and cannot be reused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in different house rules, visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/p/fistful-of-bang-variants.html&quot;&gt;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/p/fistful-of-bang-variants.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1196" LastActivityDate="2011-04-19T23:40:21.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2011-04-20T05:02:15.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking into this a bit myself, and Superior Print on Demand &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.superiorpod.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.superiorpod.com&lt;/a&gt; seems like a good candidate.  I haven't tried it out yet, but I'm probably going to be giving it a try soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T01:39:39.040" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T01:39:39.040" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-20T06:48:47.353" Score="5" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played a couple games so I know my experience could be faulty and I'm definitely comparing &lt;strong&gt;Mansions of Madness&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/strong&gt; where loss of sanity and loss on health are roughly equivalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, as the keeper player I haven't found causing a player to go Insane to be very effective.  The ability to play a trauma card as a keeper action doesn't seem very strong.  By the time you've driven someone insane, it is late in the game and &lt;strong&gt;Threat&lt;/strong&gt; is at a premium.  I haven't been able to get enough Insanity Trauma cards to take advantage of the Insane person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I better take advantage of an Insane Investigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T06:40:33.990" Title="Taking advantage of an Insane Investigator" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3255" CreationDate="2011-04-20T06:53:31.933" Score="5" ViewCount="1772" Body="&lt;p&gt;Uncontrollable Urges allows the Keeper to force an Investigator to do an action where the Keeper makes all the choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacks all seem to state &quot;Attack a monster&quot; but I'm wondering if Uncontrollable Urges overrides this and allows one Investigator to attack another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T16:32:42.723" Title="Can Uncontrollable Urges be used to force one Investigator to attack another?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3268" CreationDate="2011-04-20T07:10:30.760" Score="11" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having an item that can potentially defeat all locks seems to be counter to the natural flow of the game where the Investigators go from room to room following clues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the Axe is found, the Investigators can go whereever they want, short-circuiting the whole adventure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there errata for the Axe, or am I misunderstanding it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T02:17:18.743" Title="Is the Axe as powerful as it seems?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:07:55.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked at these sites and found them to be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rpg.stackexchange.com/q/7313/815&quot;&gt;From the RPG site, posted by AceCalhoon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A quick Google search reveals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamecrafter.com/home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Game Crafter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guildofblades.com/podcards.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guild of Blades Retail Group&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From the sites, it sounds like there are some issues with producing cards on demand that lead to a slightly lower quality than traditional publishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:45:50.650" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T16:07:55.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3252" CreationDate="2011-04-20T16:32:42.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the answer is no. From page 2 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/mom-faq-v1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Can the keeper use Uncontrollable urges to make an investigator attack&#xA;  another Investigator with a weapon?&#xA;  What about spells?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No. This only&#xA;  allows him to use a spell, equipment,&#xA;  artifact or tome card. If he forces an&#xA;  investigator to cast a spell, he must&#xA;  choose a legal target. To clarify, if&#xA;  a spell says “choose a Monster”, it&#xA;  may not be used against an&#xA;  investigator (even if playing Story&#xA;  5). As another example, the Keeper may&#xA;  not force an investigator to use the&#xA;  “Sedative” equipment on an&#xA;  investigator who does not have a&#xA;  Trauma card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-04-20T16:32:42.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45122" CreationDate="2011-04-20T21:18:50.293" Score="6" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a complicated situation involving four major powers.  The below chart will summarize their relations.  Both sets of allies are using simultaneous movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;         France   Russia    Spain   Turkey&#xA;France       XX   Allied      War      ---&#xA;Russia   Allied       XX      War      War&#xA;Spain       War      War       XX   Allied&#xA;Turkey      ---      War   Allied       XX&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;French and Russian fleets are blockading the Spanish and Turkish fleets at Cadiz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spain &amp;amp; Turkey wish to run the blockade together as one stack.  &lt;strong&gt;Who can intercept and why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2021-03-09T18:30:58.287" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T19:05:55.567" Title="Determining Naval Interceptions" Tags="|empires-in-arms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3192" CreationDate="2011-04-21T02:43:27.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very nice set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5727&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;laser-cut acrylic tiles&lt;/a&gt; costs about $100 (&quot;How much do you love Settlers of Catan?&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1200" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T02:43:27.800" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3261" CreationDate="2011-04-21T02:48:01.637" Score="5" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that it costs 1 movement point to move into a different area of the same tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DFRVA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Foyer&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the Foyer it doesn't seem logical to move from the floor (1) directly to the balcony (2) without going through the central hallway/stair entrance area first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I missed a rule to cover this special case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T22:22:15.433" Title="Can an Investigator move directly to the balcony without using the stairs in the Foyer?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2011-04-21T02:52:21.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Settlers of Catan, a sheet of acrylic or pane of glass over the board can work wonders!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used both a pane of glass and a sheet of plexiglass. The two are roughly equivalent to play on. Pieces slide around a little bit easier, but not so much as to become a nuisance. I prefer glass for its superior durability, but I have been using plexiglass at home for quite a while and it works just fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1200" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-04-22T02:29:27.123" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T02:29:27.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3258" CreationDate="2011-04-21T15:58:35.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There's no special case. The division between those areas is marked with a white border. The movement cost to cross a white border is 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the FAQ addresses this issue specifically and says that it represents characters climbing over the banisters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: I realized that if you read just the title of your question, it seems like I'm saying the opposite of what I really am. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YES&lt;/strong&gt; - you can move directly to the balcony. &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt; - there is no special case, you haven't missed anything!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T22:22:15.433" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T22:22:15.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-04-21T18:29:40.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;pass the pigs!!  its compact, you just need the two pigs (they are the dice pretty much).  throw the pigs on the table, and how they land is how you score.  its very simple and can get really fun once you get into it.  and with a group its much more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1207" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T18:29:40.070" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2011-04-21T19:47:16.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Tactics is knowing what to do when there is something to do. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Strategy is knowing what to do when there is nothing to do.” – GM&#xA;  Savielly Tartakower (1887-1956)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tactical game, you calculate on (material) profit. In a positional game you perform careful actions to improve your position, without expecting large profit in the beginning.&#xA;In most cases a positional game ends in a situation with interesting tactical options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are some (common sense) rules-of-thumb when playing a positional game:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1. In an open game, a (good) bishop is usually a bit stronger than a knight. In a closed game, the action-radius of bishops is reduced and knights become stronger.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2. A doubled pawn is especially weak when isolated from other pawns.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3. Try to trade 'bad' pieces.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4. Try to rule the center and do not allow your opponent to rule the center.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5. Attack where you dominate or have more influence.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  6. When you have a spatial advantage, do not trade pieces needlessly so that your opponent continuously needs to rearrange his pieces.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  7. Ideally, your bishop and pawns are complementary. For instance, your bishop on a black field (g3) and your pawns on white (f3 or f5). This covers a maximum of fields.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  8. First investigate on tactics, for instance by searching for possible checks or checkmates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3518" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T17:27:51.260" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T17:27:51.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2011-04-21T20:45:30.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Pacific Dominance&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each turn that Japan controls all of the Pacific islands at the end of a full turn they are rewarded with a free transport or submarine to be placed at a factory of their choice at the start of their turn. (This would require Japanese control of Hawaii, Midway, Australia, and New Zealand.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Germans in the Atlantic&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the &lt;strong&gt;Sink the Convoys&lt;/strong&gt; variant proposed by GWLlosa, if Germany has one or more non-transport naval vessels in the Atlantic Ocean at the end of a full turn, the UK must roll the die and surrender that many IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-04-21T20:45:30.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3267" CreationDate="2011-04-22T00:14:44.950" Score="29" ViewCount="27353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;strong&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/strong&gt; when Unlimited first came out, and quit shortly after Antiquities were released. About a month ago I started playing again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to find what the biggest changes are, and saw someone say the biggest difference was the elimination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/bb50&quot;&gt;Damage on the Stack&lt;/a&gt;. I've read the new rules and noticed a few differences, but am not sure what &quot;Damage on the Stack&quot; refers to as being different. Could someone explain what it was, and how it has been eliminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T07:16:14.927" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T01:27:24.267" Title="Can someone explain the Damage on the Stack rule change?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2011-04-22T01:21:34.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Damage on the stack&quot; was a phase after damage had been assigned, but before actually applied, where you could do fast effects and all sorts of fun stuff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you could block a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129586&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prodigal Sorcerer&lt;/a&gt;, then with &quot;damage on the stack&quot;, tap the Prodigal Sorcerer to do a point of damage to the Grizzly Bears.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Grizzly Bears would now have a point of damage on them, and then when damage resolves, the second point of damage (from the Prodigal Sorcerer's 1 point of power) would kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you could either attack or block, then use a creature's effects for added bonus.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234699&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mogg Fanatic&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129653&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nantuko Husk&lt;/a&gt; were fun for this, but there were plenty of other creatures that abused or took full advantage of &quot;damage on the stack&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T01:21:34.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2011-04-22T01:23:53.287" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formerly, in combat, it would go something like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Declare Blockers -&gt; (Players can do stuff) -&gt; Stack Damage -&gt; (Players can do stuff) -&gt; Damage resolves &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allowed players to do various combat &quot;tricks.&quot; Some examples:&#xA;You attack with a 2/2, and I block with my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMogg%20Fanatic%5d&quot;&gt;Mogg Fanatic&lt;/a&gt;. After damage was stacked, I could use Mogg Fanatic's activated ability, sacrificing him and dealing an additional 1 damage to your 2/2. This 1 damage, coupled with the 1 combat damage on the stack, would kill your 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the new rules, this is not possible (and thus Mogg Fanatic has been significantly weakened). I could either deal the 1 combat damage to your 2/2, OR sacrifice him to deal 1 damage to any target. By sacrificing him, he no longer is alive to deal the combat damage; and I can't sacrifice him after damage because he would already be dead. From a &quot;common sense&quot; perspective, this seems more intuitive, and I think that's why they changed the rules. (Personally I liked Damage on the Stack better; it added more possibilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another example, just to be perfectly clear:&#xA;Suppose you attack with a 2/2 and I block with a 2/2. Formerly, I could stack the combat damage, and then use a &quot;bounce&quot; card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnsummon%5d&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBoomerang%5d&quot;&gt;Boomerang&lt;/a&gt; to return my guy to my hand. The damage would then resolve; your guy would die, and mine would safely be in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new rules, I can block your guy (preventing damage to me) and still bounce my guy to save him from death, but I do not get to also kill your guy. Thus, bounce effects have also been weakened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1208" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-01-20T01:27:24.267" LastActivityDate="2017-01-20T01:27:24.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3253" CreationDate="2011-04-22T02:17:18.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't auto defeat ALL locks. Only those described as Lock Puzzles on the Lock card but not wiring or rune puzzles for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T02:17:18.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2011-04-22T06:21:13.393" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you haven't played since Antiquities, you're probably unfamiliar with the Stack in general -- it's a pretty important part of how Magic works now, and you should familiarize yourself with it. Basically it's a Last-In, First-Out stack that spells and abilities go into before they resolve. Once both players pass priority in succession without adding anything to the stack, the top effect happens and the active player gets priority again. (The concepts of priority and the active player are also pretty important -- it's what allows you to do things like use one of your Planeswalker's abilities before they have a chance to Bolt it or whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage on the stack was never a &quot;phase&quot; as LittleBobbyTables said; it was something that happened during the combat damage step of the Combat Phase. Creature damage was treated like ever other ability, used the stack, and could be responded to. With the rules overhaul that happened around M10's release, this was changed, as it led to too many unpleasant situations of new players getting taken advantage of by more experienced players, and because combat without it is actually more tactically interesting -- you now have to choose between your creature's power and his sac ability, rather than always getting both. It does unfortunately render a lot of older cards terrible, but they have definitely started pushing the power level of sac effects on newer cards to compensate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana burn was also eliminated in that rules update, so be aware of that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1169" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T06:21:13.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:00:55.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/62871/zombie-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zombie Dice is a light push-your-luck style dice game. There are several reasons I think it would work well for play in a bar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's simple - you can teach your friends in 30 seconds, and a few beers won't result in forgetting complex rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's self contained -  you don't even need paper to keep score!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's quick - you can get in several games even if you just popped in for one drink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's durable - a little liquid won't hurt the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's compact - you don't need a big table or a lot of bar space to play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-04-22T22:00:55.660" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-22T22:53:23.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deep Blue did not &quot;solve&quot; chess - it and the generations of computer chess programs since have demonstrated they computer programs have gotten to grandmaster level (or just beyond) in playing chess - BUT - they have not &quot;solved&quot; chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solving chess would imply knowing who will win from the initial starting position (i.e. showing a forced win for either white or black from the opening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And more recently it has been shown that an average chess player in partnership with a modern chess program can beat grandmasters by themselves or the best of modern computer programs (i.e. human+machine is better than human or machine alone). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chess is a game that changes as you get better and more studied in playing the game. One of the most important books I've ever read was Emanuel Lasker's Manual of Chess (published now quite a long time ago yet still a classic and great book). Emanuel Lasker was one of the best chess players in the history of the game - was the world champion for many years - and he was also a philosopher. His manual of chess teaches chess in the opposite manner of most teachers (then and now) - he starts with the endgame and works up to the opening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But more than his chess lessons (which are fantastic and still compelling today) he was also teaching a way of thinking - a way of looking at the future, as your own decisions and the impact of them on others (and of other's decisions on you). He deemphasized the memorization that is all to often how chess is taught in favor of teaching you to evaluate positions, make plans and understand situations. Learning to think for yourself, to modify your plans when the situation changes and learning how to evaluate honestly your position (and that of your opponents) is a skill which carries over into everything I do with my career. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further I disagree that &quot;any&quot; modern game can teach the same lessons as chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many modern games, unlike chess, involve randomness as an aspect of the game. Learning to deal with randomness (and to understand probabilities etc) are important lessons but are not part of chess.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unlike most modern games Chess is not a win/lose game. Draws are core to chess (though frequently poorly understood by beginners). Learning to recognize a drawn position - and when to offer a draw (and when to accept one) is a lesson that few games other than Chess offer. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The literature and history of chess as well as the universality of chess are fairly unique. Few other games have as rich a history or as deep a library (poker today may be beginning to come close, Bridge has some and Go has others - but Go for example is not a global game to the same degree as Chess). I've played chess against opponents with whom I shared no common language, something hard to do with most other games. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="842" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T23:43:16.627" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T23:43:16.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3282" CreationDate="2011-04-24T07:11:55.590" Score="23" ViewCount="5924" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of the French edition of Pandemic are a little unclear about the following game situation. Once a cure for a disease (let's say &lt;em&gt;blue&lt;/em&gt;) has been found, at any point the Medic is in an infected city, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(a)&lt;/em&gt; the city is instantaneously cleaned, or &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;(b)&lt;/em&gt; the whole disease is wiped from the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The literal wording of the French rules may be construed to mean &lt;em&gt;(b)&lt;/em&gt;, but after only one game like this, it seemed to make the game so easy to win that we felt it was obvious it had to be &lt;em&gt;(a)&lt;/em&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T16:57:30.277" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T16:57:30.277" Title="Clarification of a Pandemic rule involving the Medic" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3286" CreationDate="2011-04-24T08:29:47.860" Score="12" ViewCount="2917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an experienced board gamer (and card too), with a particular affinity for collaborative games (Shadows over Camelot, Pandemic, etc.). I would like to take this a step further by studying self-government games in the style of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nomic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nomic&lt;/a&gt;. However, the learning step appears to be a bit steep. Given that I'd have to find a few friends to play with, I'd like to find a good game for our collective first time, so as not to be too easily discouraged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what choice of nomic games would you recommend, and what general advice would you give me to organize this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T17:31:40.273" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T17:31:40.273" Title="Advice for an experienced gamer who'd like to play nomic games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T07:14:50.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2011-04-24T11:51:36.840" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hadn't thought about it before, but the English rules could probably have been written a bit more precisely as well. However, your final interpretation is correct, i.e. cubes are only removed from the city the Medic is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 5 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if the Medic at any time ﬁnds herself in a city that contains cubes of a disease that has been cured, she may immediately remove all of those cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Those cubes&quot; would refer only to the cubes in the city she is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-04-24T15:04:14.563" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T15:04:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-04-24T14:38:12.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that “educating your mind” is a real-life application of chess. Also, chess books make excellent soporifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T14:38:12.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2011-04-24T15:36:38.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a positional game, the pieces remain in the game longer than tactical games and the middle-game is the dominant part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, Positional players are more inclined to finish their games as a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;there are balanced advantages in the position: if one player controls the center, the other one might have possession of a Column with heavy pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1218" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T15:36:38.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3280" CreationDate="2011-04-24T21:29:36.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so it occurred to me just to go check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/Pandemic_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;English rules&lt;/a&gt; on the internet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, if the Medic at any time finds herself in a city that contains cubes of a disease that has been cured, she may immediately remove all of those cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is clearer than the French translation, and corresponds to my option &lt;em&gt;(a)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2011-04-24T21:29:36.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3281" CreationDate="2011-04-25T00:49:22.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading your post reminded me of the two times I played &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21627/dangerous-parallel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dangerous Parallel&lt;/a&gt;. Both times were in school settings and the game appears to require/be most fun with lots of people, but I bet it could be easily amended for one player per country. The Play and rules are very free-form, albeit more structured than Nomic, yet not as constraining as a game like Diplomacy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-04-25T01:14:03.140" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T01:14:03.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2011-04-25T12:56:54.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best for what? I think people have replied nicely in terms of strategies, but there is also whether or not you like to play that kind of strategy. America, though not the hardest, is boring to play to me. Japan, kind of boring, too. But it really depends on how you like to play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T12:56:54.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-04-25T18:31:28.637" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yucata.de&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Free online games with human players. No costs, no ads, pure fun!&quot;&gt;yucata.de&lt;/a&gt; - lots of players, asynchronous (can be live if both players keep making turns), you can play multiple games.  Here is the current list of game available (more than hundred):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Few Acres of Snow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alchemist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Antike Duellum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkadia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arktia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aronda&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the Gates of Loyang&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atantida&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atoll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atta Ants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Awale&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balloon Cup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bangkok Klongs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Friday&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Call to Glory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Campaign Manager 2008&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't Stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capt'n W. Kidd&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carcassonne H&amp;amp;G&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carolus Magnus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carson City&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chinagold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City Blocks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ConHex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Down Under&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dragonheart&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drako&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Egizia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;El Grande&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Era of Inventions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Famiglia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fantasy Dice Battles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fearsome Floors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finca&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firenze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Founding Fathers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four in a row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glen More&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gobang &amp;amp; Gomoku&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hacienda&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hawaii&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hexxagon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hey, that's my fish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Industrial Waste&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jaipur&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just 4 Fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just 4 Fun Colours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kahuna&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kamisado&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kanaloa&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King of Siam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Luna&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maori&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Masons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Morris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mount Drago&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nauticus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One-Eye&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oregon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Othello&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pergamon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pompeii&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ponte del Diavolo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Port Royal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rapa Nui&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rattus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R-Eco&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Richelieu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll through the Ages&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russian Railroads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saint Petersburg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Santa Cruz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Santiago de Cuba&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Schweinebande&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shanghaien&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Six&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skyline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sobek&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space Mission&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sticky Fingers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stone Age&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sudoku Moyo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tally Ho!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Castles of Burgundy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Hanging Gardens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Palaces of Carrara&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Speicherstadt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thunderstone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thurn and Taxis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To Court the King&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Torres&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trias&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twin Tin Bots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two by Two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyrus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vikings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vinci&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Völuspá&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;War of the Roses (Rosenkonig)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Way of the Dragon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yspahan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yucata&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zooloretto the dice game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, yucata is expected to release a new game about every 3-4 weeks. If you like Euro-type games, this is the place to play them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1104" LastEditorUserId="10255" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T17:50:14.220" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T17:50:14.220" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-25T18:31:28.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3291" CreationDate="2011-04-25T18:43:08.863" Score="8" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;code&gt;Land Parcel&lt;/code&gt; states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you play this card, you receive 1&#xA;forest tile that you must immediately&#xA;place on an empty space in your&#xA;farmyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, you&#xA;receive 2 bonus point if you have 1&#xA;unused farmyard space, you receive -1&#xA;bonus point if you have 2 unused&#xA;spaces, and you receive -3 bonus point&#xA;if you have 3 or more unused spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, say that I have 1 unused farmyard space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that I will get 1 &lt;strong&gt;net&lt;/strong&gt; point (+2 from the card bonus points and -1 because I have 1 unused farmyard space) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1123" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T13:17:06.503" Title="Agricola - Land Parcel point" Tags="|agricola|agricola-farmers-of-the-moor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3290" CreationDate="2011-04-25T19:20:15.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, p8, &quot;the [scoring] categories are scored one after another&quot;, so yes, if you consider these two categories in isolation, if you had a single unused space, you'd lose a point at the &lt;em&gt;unused farmyard spaces&lt;/em&gt; scoring category stage, and then gain two in the &lt;em&gt;bonus points&lt;/em&gt; category stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card doesn't alter the way you score points in the &lt;em&gt;unused farmyard spaces&lt;/em&gt; stage, it operates by providing you with (or costing you) bonus points. (For example, note that with this card, your first unused farmyard space, with only the two scoring effects operational, gets you a point, the second costs you three points, the third costs you four points, but the fourth only costs you one point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget that other cards might also add, or subtract, points for unused farmyard spaces and the game has to be designed so that all the pieces can interoperate with one another.&#xA;(For example, you might have a card that says something like &quot;when calculating your score for unused farmyard spaces, you don't lose any points for such spaces&quot;... in conjunction with the &lt;em&gt;Land Parcel&lt;/em&gt; card, this would give you 2 points for one unused space, cost you 1 point for 2 unused spaces, and cost you 3 points for three or more unused spaces, because again the bonus points get accounted for after the unused farmyard spaces points.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastEditorUserId="862" LastEditDate="2011-04-26T13:17:06.503" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T13:17:06.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3281" CreationDate="2011-04-25T19:37:37.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best online nomic is Agora Nomic (http://agoranomic.org/), which is played on several mailing lists. BlogNomic (http://blognomic.com/) is also popular and less 'heavy'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1220" LastActivityDate="2011-04-25T19:37:37.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-04-26T05:50:47.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the ones already mentioned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the Project Gipf Games: (besides Dvonn) Gipf, Tzaar, Zertz, Punct, and Yinsh (all awesome, by the way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abalone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did someone say Mancala yet?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1222" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T05:50:47.197" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-26T05:50:47.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2105" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:26:18.010" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I am a bit late, but there is a lot more to Bidding than just applying a set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is this aspect of bidding called 'judgement' which does not depend on the bidding system you use, and this is where the skill and experience of better players shows. In fact, top players would claim that the system is immaterial (implying that it is judgement which is paramount). If I remember correctly, Bob Hamman once quoted that System is 3% of the game. When asked about this quote, he said, &quot;Did I say &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; much?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples where you need to apply your judgement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deciding what to open:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: playing a standard American system and holding Kx, AKxx, Qxxxx, Kx. Most experts would open 1NT with this, even though 1NT shows a 'balanced' hand which this is not. The reason being that it becomes harder to handle in later bidding. What would you rebid if partner responds 1S?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deciding where to pass/invite/bid game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: You hold AKxxx, x, AQTxx, xx. You bid 1S and partner raises to 2S, showing 6-9 points. Even though you only hold 19-22 points and you normally need 26 points for game, you ought to bid game (4S) here. (Some systems try to account for this by adding points for shortness).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deciding the right suit to play in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example, you hold xxx, Kxxx, Kxxx, Kx. Partner opens 1S showing 5+ spades, you raise to 2S and partner now bids 3H. Showing 4 or more hearts and inviting to game. You should bid 4H here. One, you accept the invite and two, a 4-4 fit usually plays better than an 5-3 fit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times, you actually need to imagine how the play might go during the bidding itself (this is especially true when deciding whether to bid slam or not) and the rules don't help you much there. Then, there is skill in deciding whether to sacrifice over opponents contract, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More evidence of this are the complaints most people have on BBO (an online site to play bridge) regarding the bidding by GIB, the robot. It should be easy for a computer to apply a set of rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, No. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T21:26:18.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:32:31.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minibridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MiniBridge&lt;/a&gt; which is a simplified version of Bridge (there is no bidding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-04-26T23:32:04.227" LastActivityDate="2011-04-26T23:32:04.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3308" CreationDate="2011-04-26T21:48:48.350" Score="8" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently 6H (small slam with hearts as trump) can be made on this hand, irrespective of the distribution of opposing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are south (holding 54, AKQJTx, -, 98765) . Dummy is north, the lead (by West) is a diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AK32&#xA;652&#xA;JT&#xA;AKJT&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;54&#xA;AKQJT4&#xA;- &#xA;98765&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who might be unfamiliar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bridge hand and the hands are written as spades, hearts, diamonds, clubs or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;spades&#xA;hearts&#xA;diamonds &#xA;clubs&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So north hand is actually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Spades:    AK32&#xA;  Hearts:    652&#xA;  Diamonds:  JT&#xA;  Clubs:     AKJT&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Writing as spades,hearts, diamonds, club has become the standard practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T02:06:19.837" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T18:11:16.443" Title="Making 6H (declarer: 54, AKQJTx, -, 98765)" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-04-27T09:45:47.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/23348/easter-island&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easter Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two player abstract strategy game with no element of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1168" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T09:45:47.050" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-27T09:45:47.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3299" CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:21:18.243" Score="13" ViewCount="4901" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play a Bureaucrat and my opponent reveals a hand with a Curse card, does that Curse card go back on top of his/her deck?  Or does it not count as a &quot;Victory card&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T14:26:38.433" Title="Does a Curse card count as a Victory card when playing the Bureaucrat?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3298" CreationDate="2011-04-27T13:36:01.240" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Curse cards do not have the type &lt;strong&gt;Victory&lt;/strong&gt;.  They just have type &lt;strong&gt;Curse&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can see this in the rules or by reading the card closely - although they affect your VP total, they do not have &quot;Victory&quot; in the type line, just &quot;Curse&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-04-27T14:26:38.433" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T14:26:38.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3298" CreationDate="2011-04-27T14:15:49.063" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 2-3 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; you'll see the various types of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treasure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Victory&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Estates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duchies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provinces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Randomizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kingdom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Curse&lt;/strong&gt; is it's own type of card and not a &lt;strong&gt;Victory&lt;/strong&gt; card.  On page 2, the explanation of the Curse card includes &amp;quot;card type, (curse, purple)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T14:15:49.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-04-27T18:09:33.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/19/18xx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;18xx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only randomness is seating order.  Utterly brilliant games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1227" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T18:09:33.330" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-27T18:09:33.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3618" CreationDate="2011-04-27T20:10:26.557" Score="18" ViewCount="2812" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I have been developing a way to play A&amp;amp;A with two boards. You have the Axis on one and the Allies on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, before you start saying that this is ridiculous and stupid and would prolong the gameplay 10 fold, let me explain... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your board, you have your troops and you can see territories you don't own. Then, on your turn, you can choose to attack somewhere or you can do reconnaissance and send a bomber over an enemy area to see what is in it. Since bombers are a big part of attacking the enemy, this would be a free move. But, the more bombers you have, the more recon you can do. A bomber cannot do more than one territory per turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you recon or decide where to attack and write it down. Then, a mediator takes your paper into the other room where the enemy board is and they tell you what you're fighting or what you've spied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is my VERY BASIC plan. I want ideas to help develop this a bit more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas??? (&amp;lt;-- there is my question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-04-27T20:24:58.077" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T14:03:55.593" Title="Axis and Allies with TWO boards!!!" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-04-27T22:23:38.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://games.asobrain.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://games.asobrain.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settlers of Catan clone (Xplorers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carcasonne clone (Toulouse) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The community is pretty active, there's almost always someone to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1232" LastActivityDate="2011-04-27T22:23:38.763" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-27T22:23:38.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3296" CreationDate="2011-04-28T01:15:09.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the trick (no pun intended) is to get to the remaining winner in your hand: once Q&amp;clubs; is out, your clubs are good, but the only entry is by using your trump. To win club tricks in your hand, dummy must have only enough clubs to win tricks prior to the Queen's fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You trump the opening trick with 4&amp;hearts; (1 trick). Run hearts through South to clean out West's trump (5), and on the last heart trick, slough dummy's 2&amp;spades;. Lead clubs to finesse East's Q&amp;clubs; ... East must take either the first or second club trick for her Q&amp;clubs; to be good. When she does, she will have no more winners: QJ&amp;spades; lose to the board, Kx&amp;diams; is trumped in the hand, remaining clubs are taken on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When East uses her Queen, you have 6 or 7 tricks won. If East leads a spade, you take that and the next trick with dummy's spades (8/9), followed by a spade from dummy to be taken with your last heart (10), which makes your remaining clubs good (11/12). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If East leads another club, you take it in your hand (7/8) followed by your last club(s) (9), then the heart (10), then across to dummy's spades (12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If East leads a diamond, you take that with your last heart (7/8), but then there is no entry back to declarer's hand, and thus the final trick is a spade loser from dummy rather than the club winner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-04-28T02:26:15.657" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T02:26:15.657" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:24:48.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/82397/genesis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Genesis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of randomness in the startup. Pieces are placed in the order of oldest first and he/she is the one who starts the game. After that you make your move in clockwise order. The first player marker moves every round creating a supprising new level of strategy where you also needs to consider at what point in the current and the next turn you will make your move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T07:24:48.677" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-04-28T07:24:48.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3310" CreationDate="2011-04-28T07:29:27.313" Score="8" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the mythos cards in the game says that the investigator is out of ammo and that she needs to discard her weapon. Would you interpret this as the card should be removed from the game as oppossed to the cards that says the investigator needs to drop the item, ie. in the current room.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have said remove the card if it wasn't for that the investigators have an action called &quot;discard&quot; where they actually drop the items in the current room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T16:59:41.577" Title="Drop or Discard in Mansion of Madness?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3307" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-28T14:30:59.500" Score="5" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/42047/a-touch-of-evil-something-wicked#description&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;description of the Something Wicked expansion&lt;/a&gt; for A Touch of Evil on BoardGameGeek that the expansion contains additional rules that include &quot;expanded challenge for cooperative play,&quot; but I don't see the rules posted in the files section. We've had a fairly easy time at beating the base game co-operatively and so I'm curious what changes in a co-op game with this expansion. A different shadow track? Bonuses for the Villain? More frequent mystery cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T17:26:17.873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T06:25:55.500" Title="How is co-operative play made more difficult in the Something Wicked expansion for A Touch of Evil?" Tags="|a-touch-of-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3296" CreationDate="2011-04-28T15:52:42.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the following works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ruff (or trump) the diamond lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lead out the Trump Ace. If both opponents follow, then this is easy. You can take out opponents trumps and play the clubs. You can even try to finesse the CJ or T and try for an overtrick, when West has the Club Qxx. You have two trumps in hand, so you have an entry to hand after you unblock the clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems happens when one of the opponents shows out on the Trump Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now draw three more rounds of trump. On the fourth trump, discard a &lt;em&gt;diamond&lt;/em&gt;. Throwing the diamond is the key play: North hand is void in diamonds now. Now play AKJ of clubs. Opponents have to win this and if they return a diamond, you ruff in South hand, throwing the blocking club T from the dummy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T15:52:42.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-04-28T16:54:45.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like an interesting variant that would be much more fun to play online rather than in person, since in person necessitates the need of a mediator and requires the two players to be physically separated so as not to see the other's board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I have a slight suggestion - rather than having &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; enemy territories as unknowns, each side should see (in full) the strength of the enemy in territories that boarder friendly territories. For example, as long an Axis power held Manchuria both Germany and Japan could see troop levels in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soviet Far East&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yakut&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mongolia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kwangtung&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, a player could see enemy units in sea zones bordering their territories or sea zones where their side has naval units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would be kept secret?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enemy units in territories not adjacent to friendly territories&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What units were purchased by the enemy at the start of an enemy's turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where purchased units were placed at the end of a turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, moving into a &quot;dark&quot; territory that contains enemy units would require a battle, even if the movement happened in the non-combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-04-28T16:54:45.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3306" CreationDate="2011-04-28T17:20:45.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I interpret that card as &quot;Discard means &lt;strong&gt;discard&lt;/strong&gt;. Place in the discard pile.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;action&lt;/strong&gt; is something that players can do to leave equipment cached for each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;mythos card&lt;/strong&gt; is an act of aggression carried out by the Keeper. It probably costs Threat. There is also &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; support in the fiction for a weapon becoming reloaded by being dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: OK. So, I played &lt;em&gt;Mansions&lt;/em&gt; last night for the first time in a while, and came up with this card. It's clearly &lt;strong&gt;Discard&lt;/strong&gt; on the Mythos card and &lt;strong&gt;Drop&lt;/strong&gt; in the Investigator action list. There's no confusion here at all, no interpretation necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T16:59:41.577" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T16:59:41.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-04-29T07:14:43.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, this is done as a 3-board or more mode, not two, for the moderator's sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: Moderator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: Player A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: Player B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board: Player C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the complexity involved in A&amp;amp;A, and the need for spotting rules to be able to play effectively, it will be a very different game that just happens to share a lot of mechanics with A&amp;amp;A...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it sounds utterly dreadful to me, as do almost all such double-blind games... mostly due to the propensity for human error in presenting the data. (On the other hand, I've enjoyed multiplayer Sid Meyer's Civ computer games, and those are double blind.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T07:14:43.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3316" CreationDate="2011-04-29T13:03:38.717" Score="10" ViewCount="7573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played SOC several times but I've never actually been the traitor myself, so when I was, it came as a bit of a shock. I tried to think about strategy in the first several rounds while pretending to be perfectly loyal to give myself time to think. Ultimately, it came down to the big question of if and when I wanted to be revealed. Whenever I was loyal, we usually tried not to reveal the traitor until the final few rounds of the game to minimize their power. But what does this mean for for the traitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I played completely loyally, doing everything possible to help the loyal knights for the entire gameI could earn black swords from the other players false accusations and my bonus 2 white swords to black at the end for being undiscovered. But this doesn't seem very traitor like as I'd just be another loyal knight who happened to flip black swords at the end. This seems somewhat like what a traitor might actually do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I made it blatantly clear that I was the traitor, literally doing everything possible to stop the knights &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; I was revealed (just moving around and never playing white cards, always choosing the progression of evil that would hurt them the most, etc.), the other players would choose not to reveal me toward the end because I would be able to do more damage when revealed. This seems like a good strategy, but its definitely the most boring for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I took a middle path and tried to halt the knights quietly until the end, it would seem like I would most be following what the traitor is 'supposed' to do. But it also seems like the weakest strategy. Its very difficult to secretly stop the knights as they will be able to see all of the face down cards I play eventually, and if I do anything obvious the whole jig is up, they will choose not to reveal me to the end, and I'll end up going with the second strategy. It just seems like the traitor has virtually no options to plot quietly against the knights without revealing himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these strategies is best in terms of stopping the loyal knights? Which tends to be best in terms of making the game fun? Is there anything important I'm overlooking about the abilities, choices, and overall power of the traitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T18:04:10.310" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T01:37:29.227" Title="Strategies for playing the Traitor in Shadows Over Camelot?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3327" CreationDate="2011-04-29T15:51:42.400" Score="3" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Power Struggle, to bribe a player, you put money secretly in a folder and pass it to the player you want to bribe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the player who is being bribed see how much is offered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what is the point of offering more than 50,000?&#xA;If yes, what is the point of secrecy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:38:45.220" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:38:45.220" Title="Is the player being bribed allowed to see how much cash is offered?" Tags="|power-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3317" CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:31:59.003" Score="3" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Investigators Refresh&#xA;  At the beginning of a round of combat with an Ancient&#xA;  One, the investigators may refresh their cards, use any&#xA;  character abilities, and adjust their skill sliders as though&#xA;  it were the Upkeep Phase. Next, the first player marker&#xA;  should be passed to the left. Finally, they may trade&#xA;  items among themselves as if they were in the same&#xA;  location (see “Trading Equipment” later in these rules).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this really an upkeep phase in every single respect, or is it a psuedo-upkeep phase with slightly different rules? Do spells have to recast every round? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Dread_Curse_of_Azathoth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dread Curse of Azathoth&lt;/a&gt; says it lasts until end of combat, and the rules specifically say investigators &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; refresh cards. If they chose not to refresh a spell would it mean that the spell would continue in effect, possibly for the whole battle without having to be recast at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: in addition, if investigators have blessings, do they need to roll to see if they discard them every round of combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-04-30T16:20:37.290" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T16:20:37.290" Title="In the Final Battle, do all spells have to be recast each round of combat?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3315" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3318" CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:40:44.060" Score="9" ViewCount="5401" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cooperative games have methods of altering the difficulty listed in the rulebook, but Arkham Horror doesn't (although it does mention that Cthulu tends to be harder than the other ancient ones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are some good ways to tweak the difficulty?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does each one alter the game difficulty and strategy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any methods of changing difficult in the expansions that you don't need to have the entire expansion to use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of obvious things, like drawing more mythos cards, taking away character abilities, having more monsters come out of gates etc. But I'm afraid to just start tinkering away. Which methods tend to work &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:44:28.530" Title="Tweaking the difficulty in Arkham Horror?" Tags="|house-rules|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2011-04-29T16:56:27.867" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, being the traitor at &lt;em&gt;Shadows&lt;/em&gt; is sort of like playing games where bluffing is involved. Success depends on you managing the table's personalities. Here are the rules I set for myself as traitor and I try to stick to them as much as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't lie.&lt;/strong&gt; This is the number one rule. (Technically speaking the rule should be &quot;don't get &lt;em&gt;caught&lt;/em&gt; lying&quot;, but I find personally that if I think that's the rule, I spend a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of time worrying about whether a lie is worth making, whether I can get caught out, etc, etc, which drains away my ability to spend effort on actually &lt;em&gt;playing&lt;/em&gt; the game to win as the traitor, so &quot;don't lie&quot; is easier, oddly enough, to follow and win.) The only question you're allowed to lie to (unless it's an official accusation) is speculation that &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are the traitor. And you don't want that accusation to ever be made, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refuse to engage in speculation and try, quietly, to defuse it.&lt;/strong&gt; Don't fall into the trap of parties of speculation, or trying to &quot;defend yourself by accusing someone else&quot;. This is a fool's game, because it &lt;em&gt;puts the issue of accusation on the table as legitimate&lt;/em&gt; and once that's done, you're as good a target (better, in fact) than anyone else. Do everything you can to get people &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to speculate about the traitor's identity or make accusations, which can lead to table management principles...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be jovial and pleasant, almost carefree.&lt;/strong&gt; Chit-chat. Encourage others to chit-chat. Be friendly, be funny; ask for the snacks, pass the snacks, enquire after others' desire for snacks, ask if anyone would like &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; snacks. In other words, as much as possible, try to put the other players in a friendly mental space where they're &lt;em&gt;not thinking too much about the game&lt;/em&gt; other than the mechanical &quot;optimal choices&quot; they have to make on their turn, which leads to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Encourage others to make &quot;the best choice&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt; Get the other players to avoid the conclusion that finding and accusing the &lt;em&gt;right traitor&lt;/em&gt; is a wonderfully good thing for them to do; you can do this by &lt;em&gt;focussing on optimal moves&lt;/em&gt; whenever possible. Whenever the discussion turns to strategy for an individual player turns, &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; encourage discussion about evaluating options that &lt;em&gt;don't have to do with the traitor issue&lt;/em&gt;. This helps lull your fellow players into a mind-set that the game can be beaten without exposing the traitor, and that exposing the traitor isn't a legitimate strategic option to discuss. While this discussion is going on, try as hard as you can to &lt;em&gt;not offer advice yourself&lt;/em&gt;: try to exclusively ask questions, and not answer questions (i.e. &quot;What do you think we should do here?&quot;, &quot;Do you think it's better to play a bunch of high cards here?&quot;, and so on). This makes you look like you're contributing, but relieves you of the burden of &lt;em&gt;actually contributing&lt;/em&gt; to good choice making (and prevents you from being caught lying). Don't overdo it, because this can lead to being suspicious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make the others play your hand.&lt;/strong&gt; This goes hand in hand with the previous point: rather than getting caught out making sub-optimal plays, as much as possible get the &lt;em&gt;others&lt;/em&gt; to direct your play. Don't lie, but continually ask the others what they think you should do, how you should play your cards, and so on. You can't break the rules about card-talk, but you can set the others up to spending extra effort to think about playing &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; hand as well as theirs. Be very careful not to look purposefully dumb (especially if people know you're good at games) and be very careful not to lie (or get caught lying). But &lt;em&gt;spend your thought-effort on figuring out how to damage the group's chances, and not on what the best play is for your own resources&lt;/em&gt;: your best play is always to strategically make it harder for the group to beat the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When you have an opportunity to knife invisibly, be merciless.&lt;/strong&gt; When occasions come up in the game where you can damage the &lt;em&gt;group's&lt;/em&gt; chances, with not chance of being caught, do that. Quite often this comes up when you're allowed to examine action cards, defer action cards, re-arrange action cards (as long as you're sure no-one &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; notice this). Offering bad tactical advice is generally a bad idea (see &quot;don't lie&quot;), but putting the group in the position where they have to choose between a sort of bad thing, and a really bad thing (by quietly taking the good choice off the table) is awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game presents lots of opportunity for the traitor to submit the group to death by a thousand cuts, so do that every time you can. This makes it far easier for you to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stab overtly right at the end only when you're sure it makes you win.&lt;/strong&gt; If you can make a masterstroke at the end that comes from lying or overt betrayal, do it, if you know the others can't avoid losing the game. This will be a LOT easier if you've submitted the group to the death of a thousand cuts policy: you want, as much as possible, to keep the game tense and tight at the end, because this means that even small choices you make can have correspondingly great effects. You want your masterstroke to be as small, quiet, and deadly as possible because you want to maximize your chances of not getting caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastEditorUserId="862" LastEditDate="2011-04-29T17:03:33.430" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T17:03:33.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3314" CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:17:21.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 16 of the rulebook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell or weapon that gives you a&#xA;  bonus (even one that says it lasts&#xA;  until the end of combat) only&#xA;  continues to give you the bonus while&#xA;  you devote the required number of&#xA;  hands to it. You can choose to switch&#xA;  weapons/spells in later combat rounds,&#xA;  but as soon as you “release” a spell&#xA;  or weapon, it stops working for you.&#xA;  Similarly, spells that are refreshed&#xA;  (such as at the beginning of each&#xA;  combat round in the final battle)&#xA;  cease to work and must be re-cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from page 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cards exhaust themselves when used, which&#xA;  means that they are turned face down for the remainder&#xA;  of the turn. At the start of the Upkeep Phase, each player&#xA;  refreshes those cards by turning them face up. Simply&#xA;  remember that you can use face-up cards and that you&#xA;  cannot use face-down cards until you turn them face up&#xA;  again during the next Upkeep Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, exhausted spells are refreshed every round during the final battle and thus need to be recast. It's much simpler to think of the final battle as a combination of multiple combats through which damage carries over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T17:17:21.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2011-04-29T17:37:59.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of these I'm pulling straight from Richard Launius' &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/House%20Rules%20RL.pdf&quot;&gt;House Rules&lt;/a&gt; (My favorite of which is Rule #12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want an easier time of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing a Mythos card every other turn is the way I've done it. It allows the players to wander around Arkham and have encounters they normally wouldn't take the time out to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make traveling through gates (for those standing on them) during the encounter phase optional rather than mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monsters standing on a location that contains a gate when that gate is closed are drawn through it, in addition to all those that would normally do so due to their dimensional symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the game harder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have Investigators randomly dealt out to players or randomly dealt two and pick, etc.. My group usually hates playing spellcasters, and with good reason! They weren't particularly impressive before the later expansions and the spells use precious Sanity. This forces players to pick people they wouldn't normally play as and prevents games from being filled with powerful characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place gates face down on the board. This makes it more of a surprise when you find yourself plummeting into R'yleh after jumping into an unguarded gate, or fighting through a horde to end up in the Dreamlands. It also makes it harder to come out of a gate that you didn't enter through (as they are facedown, you don't know if there is another exit on the board). When I do this, I usually allow the exiting Investigator to look at one facedown gate, and if it wasn't the one they were looking for, they get LiTaS and the gate stays facedown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Heralds and Guardians that made their debut in later expansions (King in Yellow and beyond) also help make the game harder (or easier with Guardians). Hastur paired with the King In Yellow Herald have made games so painful my group refuses to play with either one of them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've never found it necessary to take away a character ability. None of them are &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; broken. Some are close, but there's always a drawback to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, (though I've never used them myself) there are difficulty modifying cards in the Black Goat of the Woods expansion. Two of them make the game easier, two of the harder. I think they do things like 'everybody starts blessed/cursed, more/less mythos per turn', etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-04-29T17:37:59.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2011-04-30T03:33:18.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played in games where infantry were neglected and tanks and planes were the most purchased units. For example, if Germany buys all tanks for one round and all fighter for the next, they will be at a GREAT advantage in attacking and taking territories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Russia, this is different. Russia is at a monetary disadvantage and a mobility disadvantage. When Germany comes knocking on your door, the best thing to do is purchase infantry like it's going out of style. I had the Russians having 32 infantry and they held off the German invasion of about 12 tanks and 10 or so fighters and a few bombers. Each infantry has a 33% chance of hitting in defense, and for 3 IPC's, you can't beat it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infantry provide the best defense for the IPC's spent, but this is not a defensive game. It is a game of tact, wit, offense, and luck of the die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One cannot neglect infantry, but you also should not focus on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T03:33:18.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-04-30T05:22:46.350" Score="16" ViewCount="6315" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does Rook compare in difficulty to other trick-taking games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is commonly played by older people in my area, and so my siblings and I learned it as small children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What games would be good to pick up, having that background?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="982" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-01-26T08:58:54.223" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T08:58:54.223" Title="How does Rook compare in difficulty to other trick-taking games?" Tags="|recommendations|trick-taking-games|rook|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4330" CreationDate="2011-04-30T07:09:35.607" Score="17" ViewCount="37861" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25613/through-the-ages-a-story-of-civilization&quot;&gt;Through the Ages&lt;/a&gt; for the third time last night and am struggling to come up with a decent strategy to assist in winning. I am not sure if my problem is due to the random nature of the events and tech upgrades, or if my strategy is just wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UzKhc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Through the Ages front cover&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My strategy was&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;have the strongest military&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use a leader to give 1 extra civil action to replace military&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;produce a lot of resources, to build upgrades and wonders easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My downfall was that due to my leader allowing only one military action, I had no defense/colonisation bonus cards, so struggled to win territories, which came up a lot. The bonus on one was 11 points of culture, so effectively that could have been a 22 point swing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only lost by 4 culture, so no idea if my final score was the result of poor decisions/strategy, or just luck of the card draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to hear more experienced player's views. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T17:55:43.817" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T22:11:27.880" Title="What should I be trying to do strategically in Through the Ages?" Tags="|through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2106" CreationDate="2011-04-30T07:42:25.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given it and regard it as a few extra playing tiles. The actual catapult thing is a worthless gimmick. At the very least you need a house rule that the catapult must be fired from (say) 50cm away from the playing area. Otherwise it's too easy to make the ammunition land just behind the catapult (often on the exact tile you choose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Мסž" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T07:42:25.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:03:03.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best traitor players come across as &quot;Loyal but inept&quot;... just having bad runs of card draws. At the end of the game, holding onto all the 5's, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: all discards are face down... so if you have three 5's, spend them on a hit-point.&#xA;Once the siege engines are out, alternate between them and the black cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always play facedown black cards on Lance, the dragon, and the knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T18:03:03.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3321" CreationDate="2011-04-30T18:40:12.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that it's among easier trick-taking games, but not too simple. Games of similar difficulty would be Spades, Euchre, and Pinochle. Hearts also works, but you'd need to remember it's about &lt;em&gt;avoiding&lt;/em&gt; taking points. None of the games have anything similar to the rook card. Spades, Euchre, and Pinochle each have team play with the option to &quot;go it alone&quot;. Spades has a set trump suit. Euchre and Pinochle use modified decks, and both change card ranks depending on the trump. Pinochle is the hardest of the three, with a melding phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T19:40:44.550" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T19:40:44.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3341" CreationDate="2011-04-30T22:12:22.463" Score="14" ViewCount="3150" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may or may not be a clear definitive ruling on this in the rulebook, but it's something that keeps confusing me in the actual play, so I'll ask anyway.  Here are several questions that, when put together, should illustrate the points I'm having difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I play a card that gives me one coin for each brown card in front of me or either of my two neighbours.  I personally keep forgetting whether this counts cards that came into play this turn, but a quick check of the rules summary clarifies that yes, these cards are counted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I mistakenly play a card that I (and my neighbours) have insufficient resources to build, when I look closely.  Obviously I cannot play the card - but I take it I can still discard it for 3 coins, or to build a section of my Wonder?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I mistakenly play a card that I (and my neighbours) are short of resources to build: let's say short by one stone.  However, it fortuitously happens that one of my neighbours has built a one- or two-stone quarry this turn.  Can I pay him the appropriate fee and build the card?  Or can I still only discard it for coins or to build a section of Wonder?  My first suspicion was that all building happens simultaneously, so I can't use materials that aren't available at this point - but if the card mentioned in my first example derives benefits from cards played this turn, why can't this?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could get all MtG on this and break it down into discrete phases: the buy-resources-from-neighbours-phase, the build-with-resources phase, the reap-benefits-from-just-built-cards phase.  But that all seems a bit anal for Seven Wonders.  Is there an easy solution to the problem of looking left and right to see if your neighbours have the resources you need, and having to ask &quot;errrrrr... so did you play that quarry this turn, or not&quot;?  (Apart from not being so scatterbrained, obviously!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:20:26.163" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T01:33:29.803" Title="Timing Rules in Seven Wonders" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3313" CreationDate="2011-04-30T22:51:47.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player who is being bribed can see the offer (in page 11 of the manual, the example shows that the player sees the offer). However, other players cannot see it and then it is secret from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2011-04-30T22:51:47.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2011-05-01T15:37:34.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always liked the injury/madness cards from the Durnvich horror expansion. In my mind the make an defeat a bit less painful. I prefer getting an injury most of the time to lose half my items.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An other way to make the game a bit easier would be to let each investigator take an extra item, unique item, spell or skill in during the setup.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the other hand placing an extra portal and monster on the map during setup would give you a harder, more hectic and possible shorter game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of investigators are also a way to adjust the difficulty. If you're only two playing for instance consider playing two investigators each to make the game easier.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you are four investigators adding a fifth or maybe only use the rules as if there was five players would ramp up the difficulty. With five investigators for instance you should add two monsters per opened portal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T15:37:34.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3167" CreationDate="2011-05-01T15:43:57.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend getting Dunwich Horror first because of it's Injury and Madnesses cards. The add much to the variety of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second I would probably get Kingsport since the Epic battle cards give much needed variety. The first time we played it we managed to beat the GOO and the last possible moment. This is the only time I have every experienced a gaming table to spontaneous start applauding :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T15:43:57.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2011-05-01T16:05:14.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sim City the Card Game: the cards form a city grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phil Foglio's The Works card game: it forms a network of sorts; it's also not a great game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne (already mentioned by others) creates a network of interlocking features; most of the related games likewise require continuing a given feature across boundaries. one owns features on the map, said features spanning multiple tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entdecker is much like Carcassone, but with a more nautical theme. If one wants an island archipelagian setting for an RPG, it's a great map starter. One only owns islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-01T16:05:14.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3336" CreationDate="2011-05-02T06:08:28.253" Score="18" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Mine while having a Watchtower in hand, can you put the upgraded treasure card on top of your deck instead of in your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q7CWU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Watchtower: Draw until you have 6 cards in hand. --- When you gain a card, you may reveal this from your hand. If you do, either trash that card, or put it on top of your deck.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zuk06.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mine: Trash a Treasure card from your hand. Gain a Treasure card costing up to $3 more; put it into your hand.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T14:54:09.703" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:54:09.703" Title="How do Mine and Watchtower Interact?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3347" CreationDate="2011-05-02T08:51:59.073" Score="11" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an insanity card (one of my favorite as a keeper) that says that the investigator has to roll &lt;code&gt;will+2&lt;/code&gt; everytime he/she walks through a door. What me and my players haven't been able to agree upon is whether the investigator should roll the dice even if it is the keeper who forces the player to move.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut says yes as in the same manner that you need to roll horror if the keeper moves you into a room with a monster as well. What is your opinion and are you able to find any basis for it in the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T18:21:28.720" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T23:29:20.627" Title="The fear of door knobs and being moved by the keeper" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="479" CreationDate="2011-05-02T08:57:53.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not strictly a network building game, but at least a positional game with cards: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/278/catan-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Catan Card Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, an example of which you can &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.boardgamegeek.com/images/pic3827_lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T08:57:53.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3321" CreationDate="2011-05-02T12:52:04.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of all the other card games I know, &lt;em&gt;Rook&lt;/em&gt; is most like partnership &lt;em&gt;Whist&lt;/em&gt;, with only a few exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tournament Rook uses the rook-bird card, which serves as the highest trump card (not a wild card: the rook-bird play still must follow rules of following suit)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bidding in Tournament Rook is done by point counting, not by trick counting (as with Whist): fives are 5, tens and fourteens are 10, and the rook-bird is 20. (As with Whist, trump is not named until after the bidding has passed out.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tournament Rook sets aside a &quot;nest&quot; of five cards on each deal-out that is not used by the players to play the hand, nor are the cards visible. This gives each hand 10 cards. The winning partnership counts the points in their won tricks, plus any tricks in this &quot;nest&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two aspects of the game I like most (and which make it more interesting than Whist) are the &quot;nest&quot; and the separation of bidding and measure of &quot;successful play&quot; from the number of tricks captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of other card games that assign point values to cards and both bid and measure success based on those cards (Mü, Skat, Tichu). However, I can't off the top of my head think of other games that also incorporate a kitty of cards taken out of play that get assigned to the winning partnership at the end of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T12:52:04.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3331" CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:24:35.630" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can.  The card you get from Mine is definitely &lt;strong&gt;gained&lt;/strong&gt;, therefore you can react to it with Watchtower and put it on your deck (or trash it!) if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not usually much reason to do so, but the cards don't actually conflict - you can use them both in this manner if you really want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-05-02T18:04:27.760" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T18:04:27.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3331" CreationDate="2011-05-02T14:31:16.840" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mine says you are gaining a card.  Watchtower says you can reveal the Watchtower from your hand and either trash or put the gained card on your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found a game log reference on councilroom.com showing this exact situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;bandito plays a Mine.&#xA;... trashing a Copper.&#xA;... gaining a Silver in hand.&#xA;... ... revealing a Watchtower and putting the Silver on the deck.&#xA;(bandito draws: a Silver, 3 Coppers, and an Estate.)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101207-185856-0ab1f05b.html&quot;&gt;http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20101207-185856-0ab1f05b.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T14:31:16.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3339" CreationDate="2011-05-02T17:06:50.067" Score="5" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if anyone has come across an adaptation to the rules of Hero Quest for a version where you don't need an evil wizard? I'm wanting to try and play 2 player co-operative games and almost have a more random monster appearance like Warhammer Quest etc, but not quite sure if it'll work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" OwnerDisplayName="Ian" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-12T20:11:27.917" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T20:11:27.917" Title="Hero Quest - Adaptation to remove 'Evil Wizard'" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3338" CreationDate="2011-05-02T23:11:26.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boy do I love Hero Quest -- that's the game that started it all for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried playing Hero Quest without Zargon a couple of times, and it's tricky but doable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You basically need one person playing both a hero and Zargon, and trying to move the monsters as impartially as possible.  For example, if you enter a room with two Fimir, and its their turn to act, don't have them run off afraid, or have them move up and then not attack.  Either the hero/Zargon, or the entire group, need to come up with what you think the monsters would do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either come up with a strict attack order (monsters will go for the Wizard first, Elf second for example) or dice off to see which way the monster will go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have to re-write or re-copy the scenarios with the treasure notes and secret doors and traps written down elsewhere, so you can't cheat and say &quot;Well this treasure chest is trapped because I read it right here&quot; or &quot;Hey, there's a secret door here, I just read about it&quot;.  Alternately you can put the traps and secret doors on the board, but you need to roll some target value to even be aware that it's there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bowserbag.com/heroquest/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BowserBag.com&lt;/a&gt; that has some interesting links, including a PDF for play without Zargon, found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bowserbag.com/heroquest/Hero%20Quest%20Rules.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-05-02T23:11:26.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2011-05-03T07:23:12.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the traitor function I think that the games are quite different. When the traitor wins in Shadows I tend to feel betrayed, as in there was one person who ruined the game for the rest of us. But in BSG I have never felt that. It's more like there is two different teams to the game and I can take that one team triumphed over the other one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to excitement I would also put BSG first. It just feels more important during the whole game to find out who is a Cylon and you can always be certain that there will be at least one who is. Shadow on the other hand projects a sense of urgency that BSH just can't top. When it comes to drawing cards I think Shadows is the better game. I have never felt such an reluctance to draw a card as I do in Shadows when it comes to the black cards. It's probably because you have got an choice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;Is it better if I draw a black card now when we're almost done with excalibur or should I take a catapult instead? On the other hand we can only two more so if we got a traitor...&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You get the feeling that strategy and your choices actually matter and to draw a card can make or break the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T12:06:28.457" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T12:06:28.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2011-05-03T08:35:04.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Nothing to say for me here ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I'm not sure about the actual rules, but I think the penalty of disallowing everything else would be too harsh, as the player loses a complete turn. One could argue if only the three coins should be allowed or building a part of the wonder as well. Personally, I would allow both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Again, not 100% sure: as you cannot use coins that you got this turn, you shouldn't be able to use any resources that have become available in the same turn. My thinking is, everybody builds at the same time and hence completes their building at the same time, so you can't get anything out of another building to complete your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1167" LastEditorUserId="1167" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T12:56:22.727" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T12:56:22.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3351" CreationDate="2011-05-03T12:45:35.117" Score="64" ViewCount="31792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bishops and Knights are both traditionally considered to have a similar value, worth roughly &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_piece_relative_value&quot;&gt;three pawns each&lt;/a&gt;. However, I have heard arguments that under certain circumstances they are not so closely comparable. Are there situations where Bishops are more valuable than Knights, or vice versa? What factors should I weigh when considering a trade-off, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-05-03T20:06:48.180" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T11:27:46.133" Title="Are Bishops more valuable than Knights?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-05-03T16:02:47.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arimaa.com/arimaa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arimaa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never played it myself, but it's supposedly more complex than chess is, though it probably suffers from the first turn advantage issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T16:02:47.953" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-03T16:02:47.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2011-05-03T18:13:00.557" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I can say about Shadows Over Camelot is that it does a very good job of creating the proper feel for the theme. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Camelot always stood on a knife's edge, with failure on either side. Arthur was the only thing between Britain and the Dark Ages and when he fell, the darkness consumed civilization. That's how SOC feels. Like every moment could be your last, like every decision could be the one that snuffs out the light of Camelot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played BSG, but I have heard (hearsay alert!) that it requires some significant knowledge of the relaunched BSG, that in some ways it is an engine for a group to &quot;make their own fun.&quot; Which is not to say that it's not a good game, just that it may be less suitable for groups that aren't at least somewhat up on the ever-less-new BSG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T18:13:00.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2011-05-03T19:56:29.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/403/elk-fest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elkfest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Might be hard to come by and it's only two players but it's fun and it's fast. The purpose is to the help a wooden moose/elk to cross a river. You do this by flicking a wooden stepping stone close to where the elk is standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T19:56:29.317" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-03T19:56:29.317" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3516" CreationDate="2011-05-03T22:53:04.707" Score="4" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if the Scenario Guide for &lt;em&gt;Doom: The Boardgame&lt;/em&gt; is available somewhere for download in English? Unfortunately it is not on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_nrep.asp?eidm=19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight archive page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got the game in German, but want to play it with an English speaker, and with the original Scenario Guide it would be much easier than translating myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="512" LastEditorDisplayName="user3678" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T13:09:33.883" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T13:09:33.883" Title="Doom: The Boardgame Scenario Guide for download?" Tags="|doom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3333" CreationDate="2011-05-03T23:29:20.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The investigator should roll even if they're forced through the door by the Keeper. It isn't covered explicitly in the rules, but it is essentially a horror test and the entire benefit of the trauma is that the Keeper should be able to exploit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that, as with normal horror tests, passing through the same door more than once in the same turn should only force one test however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2011-05-03T23:29:20.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3375" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:20:55.707" Score="5" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BGG summary for the expansion mentions this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a complete replacement deck of the 141 cards from the original game deck: 30 Destination Tickets (4 cards have a reduced value from Ticket to Ride)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What were these reductions and why were they necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T18:10:07.143" Title="TTR: Destination ticket value changes in the America 1910 expansion" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3376" CreationDate="2011-05-04T00:35:06.397" Score="13" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been making my own new destination ticket for Ticket to Ride America. I noticed that for most of the destination tickets that come with the game, the point value is equal to the least number of train cards you would need to fulfill it (basically the distance between them). But then I found 2 tickets in the game that don't follow this rule: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sault Ste. Marie - Oklahoma City 9 points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sault Ste. Marie - Nashville 8 points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this rule were followed, those point values should be flipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is this an 'error' in the destination tickets, or was it done purposefully? I've looked at the difficultly to fulfill them and haven't found any significant reason for this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When creating my own destination tickets, how should I set the point value? Should it always be the shortest distance between them, or should I account other factors, like availability of routes needed to complete them? If so, what other factors should I look for and how should I react to them when deciding the point value?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this is a really specific and nit-picky question that no one who actually had a life would care about, but I'm still very curious as to your opinions. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2011-11-15T20:11:47.760" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T20:11:47.760" Title="Correlation between a destination ticket's point value and the leastnumber of train cars it would take to fulfill it" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-04T02:42:04.537" Score="7" ViewCount="4649" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pegs and Jokers, there are two teams of three each. Player A has four pegs in the castle and his fifth peg is two holes away from going in to have all pegs in the castle. Player A wants to play a seven card and move his last peg two holes into the castle (he would then have all five pegs in his castle) and use the remaining five moves to advance a peg belonging to his partner to his left. Is this legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1257" LastEditorUserId="704" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T07:17:14.340" LastActivityDate="2019-08-13T17:08:46.240" Title="In Pegs and Jokers, is it legal to split a seven card between my peg and my partner's peg?" Tags="|pegs-and-jokers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:00:18.970" Score="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot that can be said on this topic, but here are some of the factors that enter into my decision making process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a personal preference for Bishops over Knights. This has nothing to do with their inherent value, but is simply because I tend to utilize Bishops better. It's worth considering whether you have a penchant for one over the other, because your personal play style may determine which is more valuable for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, Knights are better early in the game and Bishops are better late in the game. This is because, in the early game pawns tend to obstruct Bishops, while Knights can move more freely. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There can also be a difference in value between Bishops (the so-called Good Bishop and Bad Bishop). If most of your pawns are on black squares, your &quot;white&quot; Bishop (the one on white squares) has greater freedom of movement (Good Bishop), while your &quot;black&quot; Bishop's movement will be hindered by your pawns (Bad Bishop). Your Good Bishop probably has a higher value than your Bad Bishop at that point. A common tactic is to trade your Bad Bishop for your opponent's Good Bishop. This can create a slight advantage. You might also trade your Bad Bishop for one of your opponent's Knights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two Bishops is generally better than two Knights or one of each. Engineering exchanges that result in you keeping two Bishops and leaving your opponent with two Knights or one of each, may result in a small advantage for you. It's debatable whether two Knights are better than a Knight and Bishop. I tend to think so, but it's very situational. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, these are generalizations that may not always apply. Chess is a complex game and the situation on the board dictates what makes the most sense, but they are reasonable rules-of-thumb and worth keeping in mind. The real answer depends on your strategy, your opponent's strategy, and the current state of the board. That is what really determines the relative value of the pieces at that moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T14:28:39.990" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T14:28:39.990" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3349" CreationDate="2011-05-04T03:38:36.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sault Ste. Marie to Nashville is right.  You can get there in 8. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sault Ste. Marie - Oklahoma City 9 points is probably an error.  The value for this ticket is 8 in the 1910 expansion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say stick with the shortest distance when setting the value for your own tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2011-05-04T12:56:03.010" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T12:56:03.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-05-04T04:08:53.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Point values were probably corrections as they probably intended the point values to be based on the shortest path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the Seattle - New York ticket was 22 in the original game and is now 20 is the America 1910 expansion.  You can get from Seattle to New York with 20 trains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T04:08:53.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-05-04T07:12:53.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not unethical at all, unless you're playing a game agreed to be &quot;no blocking.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's less effective in the Europe version, so is done less in that flavor, but even then, blocking is a part of the strategy set for successful players of all flavors of TTR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T07:12:53.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-05-04T13:06:58.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Days of Wonder stated in their forums that the 1910 changes were to reflect the shortest route valuations. (I can't find the post right now.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, all other tickets adhere to that basic rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T13:06:58.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-05-04T14:45:07.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why this is even a question. The goal of a game is to win, and half of winning is preventing others from winning before you are able to. If blocking a route prevents your opponent from winning, then how could anything be unethical about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't allowed to do anything to affect other players, you are all just playing solitaire on a shared board. You may as well just each grab a deck of cards and play real solitaire at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is a completely different situation than the Settlers example, but I think that is perfectly valid strategy as well. There is nothing in the rules that says you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; make a trade when you ask if anyone is willing to trade a particular resource. And like others have said, asking if they have any they are willing to trade doesn't mean that they are going to tell you they have said resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T14:45:07.013" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-05-04T17:42:33.697" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Todd wrote up a great answer, and points 2, 3, and 4, of his response are spot on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only addition would be to state that my preference for knights is based on the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For whatever reason, even at low-to-mid level play, you can often &quot;surprise&quot; your opponents with a knight.  Their non-linear movement pattern means that in one to two turns your knight can be wreaking havoc in ways your opponent was not anticipating.  This is less true at higher levels of play, but in general I find that setups with bishops are usually involving pins and get telegraphed pretty easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In late game bishops do have the ability to travel the board faster but if you are stuck with one bishop the king merely has to stay off the same colored squares (&quot;hot lava!&quot;).  The bishop will have to be the &quot;assisting&quot; piece while some other pawn or piece actually performs the mate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm personally partial to the ability of a knight to fork pieces without being in the line of fire for immediate retaliation.  That is, bishops have less utility to me when it comes to forking queens or other bishops in that they have to put themselves in danger to perform the fork.  This is, of course, entirely dependent on the context of the situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm upvoting Todd's post, but just wanted to offer some counterpoint regarding my personal bias towards knights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1183" LastActivityDate="2011-05-04T17:42:33.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-05-05T13:18:46.767" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time a situation like this can become unethical is in a multiplayer game.  As long as every player makes moves with a goal to win it is perfectly fair.  On the other hand, if a player desires that they are going to carry out some personal vendetta this game, and instead of working to win just tries to block one other player, letting a third party get ahead it becomes a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine situations like &quot;if you go there, i am going to spend the rest of the game just blocking you so don't&quot;  That is not a game i would want to be in.  But maybe someone would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T11:38:38.010" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T11:38:38.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3363" CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:03:49.857" Score="12" ViewCount="2740" Body="&lt;p&gt;At some point, when I was young, I learned an opening that involves the following moves: possibly after moving queen's pawn to the centre (d4), move out king's knight to above the bishop (Nf3), move knight's pawn up one (g3), move bishop up behind knight's pawn (Bg2), castle on king's side (O-O).  This results in a very tight and turtle-like defensive formation that was sufficiently aesthetically pleasing to my young self that, in the years since, I've found it quite hard to get out of the habit of using it as my opening.  (I'm not a chess expert in any way, I hasten to point out if it's not already obvious, though I do usually beat other casual players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ICmOM.png&quot; alt=&quot;White position after 5. O-O&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a well-known opening and does it have a name?  Given my apparent overwhelming predilection for playing it, what are its advantages, and what weaknesses does it have that I should watch for my opponent being able to exploit?  Any recommendations for taking my opening game to the next level would also be appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2019-11-15T06:31:29.197" LastActivityDate="2019-11-15T06:31:29.197" Title="What is the name of the following chess opening? What are its pros and cons?" Tags="|chess|openings|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3361" CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:35:17.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That would be the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King%27s_Indian_Attack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;King's Indian Attack&lt;/a&gt;.  It's been always considered to be a good opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like the King's Indian Defense, but with an extra tempo for White, and can transpose to many other openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see most of the popular openings &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thechesswebsite.com/chess-openings/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T15:52:21.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T15:52:21.397" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3361" CreationDate="2011-05-05T18:45:29.540" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving your bishop like that is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fianchetto&quot;&gt;fianchetto&lt;/a&gt;.  There are a lot of openings which fianchetto the king's bishop; what you are describing sounds somewhat like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/King%27s_Indian_Attack&quot;&gt;King's Indian&lt;/a&gt; for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of fianchetto-ing your bishop is that it very quickly puts the bishop on the long diagonal, its most powerful position.  However, it takes two moves, and weakens your kingside (specifically the &lt;code&gt;f3&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;h3&lt;/code&gt; squares), giving your opponent potential areas to attack.  For example, a common plan for black in many openings (if his pawn structure allows it) is to force the trade of bishops by &lt;code&gt;Bd7&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Qc8&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Bh3&lt;/code&gt;.  Once the bishops are traded, your king would be very vulnerable to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally (beginning with &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilhelm_Steinitz&quot;&gt;Steinitz&lt;/a&gt;), it was taught that one of the goals of the opening phase was to control the center by occupying it with pawns.  However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nimzovich&quot;&gt;Nimzovich&lt;/a&gt; introduced &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypermodernism_%28chess%29&quot;&gt;hypermodernism&lt;/a&gt;, which states that the center should be controlled from a distance by pieces, not occupied by pawns.  Neither view is more correct than the other - even today, both have very strong Grandmaster supporters, and accepted opening theory draws from both sides.  I mention this because yours is a hypermodern opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T00:09:36.627" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T00:09:36.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-05T21:28:21.507" Score="5" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with a cylon leader, a benign &quot;humans win&quot; objective generally unbalances the game. Also, the limited number of objectives makes it fairly easy to guess which the leader has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, my group has started inventing our own objectives. Each objective card has two options, one &quot;humans win&quot; and one &quot;cylons win&quot;. Generally, the &quot;humans win&quot; objective is slightly harder. However, both force the leader to keep the game close. Finally, each objective appears on two different cards, to better hide the info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample objectives include &quot;humans win and at least 3 people have been sent to the brig / executed&quot; or &quot;cylons win and resources total 19+&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions for other objectives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="823" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T03:16:50.027" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T19:40:51.893" Title="New Cylon Leader Objectives" Tags="|house-rules|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3366" CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:24:49.403" Score="8" ViewCount="2392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Throne Room cause a Possession card to give you control over two extra turns? I can see it argued both ways convincingly, so I'm looking for an authoritative answer. Google has thus far failed to get me one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect this to be the same as playing the possession card twice on your turn, and related to King's Court.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1263" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T07:32:48.487" Title="How do Possession and Throne Room interact?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3365" CreationDate="2011-05-05T22:31:29.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 3 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_356_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alchemy Kingdom Card Description pamphlet&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  — Possession is cumulative; if you play it twice in one turn, there will be two extra turns after this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for reference:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzXNP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-05-06T02:44:32.423" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T02:44:32.423" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2855" CreationDate="2011-05-06T10:23:21.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/death-angel/minisite/support/death-angel-rulebook-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Death Angels&quot;&gt;Death Angels&lt;/a&gt; is pure coop play (the aliens play &quot;themselves&quot; with some rules) just with cards and dice (very portable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/207790000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Castle Ravenloft&quot;&gt;Castle Ravenloft&lt;/a&gt; is also &quot;group of good guys only&quot; with automatic foe movement, attacks, etc. A dungeon crawler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a third recommendation, &lt;strong&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill&lt;/strong&gt; is really great, but the second half of the game (when one &quot;omen roll&quot; is failed and the bad guy(s) are chosen) requires at least one person to become enemy/bad and a bit of competition is introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T10:23:21.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3348" CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:10:07.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Which tickets were changed?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following destination tickets received a decrease in value: &lt;sup&gt; (Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?goto=67600#msg_num_0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder Forums&lt;/a&gt; user &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=245866&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Baron Von Schmidt original&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sault St. Marie to Oklahoma City&lt;/strong&gt;: now &lt;strong&gt;8&lt;/strong&gt; points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Los Angeles to Miami&lt;/strong&gt;: now &lt;strong&gt;19&lt;/strong&gt; points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Los Angeles to New York&lt;/strong&gt;: now &lt;strong&gt;20&lt;/strong&gt; points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seattle to New York&lt;/strong&gt;: now &lt;strong&gt;20&lt;/strong&gt; points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tickets Probably Over-valued&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the minimum number of trains required to complete a destination ticket was the &lt;em&gt;starting point&lt;/em&gt; for assigning each ticket a point value. The claim is made &lt;sup&gt; (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?goto=179787#msg_num_3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder Forums&lt;/a&gt; user &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=13984&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Caboose&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) &lt;/sup&gt; that Alan Moon (the game's designer) said the ticket values were not supposed to be the shortest route between two cities. Lacking the context that this may have been said in, I believe the intent was to put to rest worries that some ticket values were mistakes or misprints, rather than to deny all connection between tickets' values and their minimum lengths. &lt;sup&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?goto=17836#msg_num_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; by Caboose from several years earlier shows (s)he had previously believed the issue was due to a misprint.) &lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if the changes were to &quot;fix&quot; the tickets to match their minimum lengths, they didn't fix all of them. It's been pointed out &lt;sup&gt; (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=420492&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder Forums&lt;/a&gt; user &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=6686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DiscJet&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) &lt;/sup&gt; that the &lt;strong&gt;Los Angeles to Chicago&lt;/strong&gt; ticket and the 1910 expansion's &lt;strong&gt;Las Vegas to Miami&lt;/strong&gt; ticket are each worth more than their shortest length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I conclude that Mr. Moon decided the four changed routes were somewhat over-valued, at least for the &lt;em&gt;1910&lt;/em&gt; rules (if not in general).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attribution Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I got the idea to look through the Days of Wonder Forums from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3348/ttr-destination-ticket-value-changes-in-the-america-1910-expansion/3355#3355&quot;&gt;aramis' answer&lt;/a&gt;. I don't have access to my copy of Ticket to Ride and the 1910 expansion at the moment, so I can't verify the route lengths or values myself.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T18:10:07.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3349" CreationDate="2011-05-06T18:37:31.180" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Was it a misprint?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the minimum number of trains required to complete a destination ticket was only the &lt;em&gt;starting point&lt;/em&gt; for assigning each ticket a point value. The claim is made &lt;sup&gt; (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?goto=179787#msg_num_3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder Forums&lt;/a&gt; user &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=13984&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Caboose&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) &lt;/sup&gt; that Alan Moon (the game's designer) said the ticket values were not supposed to be the shortest route between two cities. Lacking the context that this may have been said in, I believe the intent was to put to rest worries that some ticket values were mistakes or misprints, rather than to deny all connection between tickets' values and their minimum lengths. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?goto=17836#msg_num_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; by Caboose from several years earlier shows (s)he had previously believed the issue was due to a misprint.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if the changes made in the &lt;em&gt;1910&lt;/em&gt; expansion were to &quot;fix&quot; the tickets to match their minimum lengths, they didn't fix all of them. It's been pointed out &lt;sup&gt; (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=420492&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder Forums&lt;/a&gt; user &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/usrinfo/?id=6686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DiscJet&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) &lt;/sup&gt; that the &lt;strong&gt;Los Angeles to Chicago&lt;/strong&gt; ticket and the 1910 expansion's &lt;strong&gt;Las Vegas to Miami&lt;/strong&gt; ticket are each worth more than their shortest length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely, Mr. Moon increased values for certain tickets to give a slight additional incentive to choose them (especially given the different mix of tickets that would be used in &lt;em&gt;1910&lt;/em&gt;). Was it to balance out a disadvantage of these tickets, or to slightly change gameplay with a small advantage to certain routes? I wouldn't have a clue. However, I doubt it was a misprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How should custom tickets be valued?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The majority of tickets should be valued at the minimum number of trains required to complete them. Then think through what your goal is for adding those tickets. Do you want to create more competition for certain cities? encourage more cross-country routes? discourage the use of 5- and 6-train sections? Once you've clarified that goal, you might adjust a few custom tickets' value up by one point (&lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; two) based on play-testing or your anticipation of the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, adding a small number of destination tickets, even with tweaked&#xA;values, isn't going to have a very large effect. If you've played with the Mystery Train routes (but still without the other cards available in the &lt;em&gt;1910&lt;/em&gt; expansion), that would probably give you a good idea of how much of an effect your changes would have on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attribution Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The first section is partially an adaptation from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3348/ttr-destination-ticket-value-changes-in-the-america-1910-expansion/3375#3375&quot;&gt;my answer&lt;/a&gt; to the question &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/3348/377&quot;&gt;TTR: Destination ticket value changes in the America 1910 expansion&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. I don't have access to my copy of Ticket to Ride and the 1910 expansion at the moment, so I can't verify the route lengths or values myself.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-05-06T18:37:31.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-07T20:11:47.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For sake of speed we often play with only 10 piles of 8 cards in 3 player games, and 8 piles of 8 cards in 2 player games. Faster games are a bit more exciting and gives new players a few opportunities to get the hang of the game - as well as see more cards as we mix up a few piles in followup games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I do like to randomize the sets, I find it's best to always have a few favourites in the mix. I don't have a complete list, but cards like Bridge, Coppersmith, Pawn, Talisman are highly desirable &amp;amp; help burn piles faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1267" LastActivityDate="2011-05-07T20:11:47.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3388" CreationDate="2011-05-08T06:08:58.210" Score="12" ViewCount="1253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to position all chess pieces on the board such that all pieces defend at least one piece and attack at least one piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1268" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-05-14T23:53:05.957" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T09:09:01.160" Title="Is it possible to position all chess pieces on the board such that all pieces defend at least one piece and attack at least one piece?" Tags="|chess|puzzles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3364" CreationDate="2011-05-08T17:11:23.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with Cylon Leaders is that in general they're going to unbalance the game or have no effect, since a cylon wins in a six player game is impossible at times(especially with the CFB) The notion of each card having both a human and cylon win condition is interesting, but it could just leave you where you started by unbalancing the game if they have a choice in who wins. However creating custom agendas is not a bad idea and it is something that should be pursued. Also something to keep in mind is that you could create agendas where the CL is trying to do something and it does not matter if humans or cylons win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T17:11:23.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3321" CreationDate="2011-05-08T17:30:45.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schoolbridgeleague.org/learn-to-play-rules_mini.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mini-bridge&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advantage of mini-bridge over rook/spades is that it's deeper, but equally easy to learn the rules.  It also gives you a lot of upside in that you could move onto playing Bridge, which is the classic among trick taking games: more complex, more fun, and more rewarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mini-bridge is being taught as an alternative to Chess in many schools among younger children, with the idea that they'll move on to play the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2011-05-08T17:30:45.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3391" CreationDate="2011-05-08T19:28:09.800" Score="1" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was so sure during today's game that the torch could destroy an altar but when I looked through the rules I couldn't find it anywhere. Have I only dreamed it or is it there somewhere in the rules? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T16:30:03.673" Title="Torches and altars" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3393" CreationDate="2011-05-09T00:13:05.287" Score="13" ViewCount="1543" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the gap created by a rock-fall have to be replaced to make a continuous path before additional cards can be added on to the disconnected portion of a path? Or can you continue to extend the disconnected path in the hopes of filling in the missing link on a later turn or allowing one of your teammates to potentially fill in the gap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="5542" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T13:59:14.343" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T13:59:14.343" Title="Is it required to reconnect a path that has been disrupted by a rock-fall before adding onto the end of the path in Saboteur?" Tags="|saboteur|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3385" CreationDate="2011-05-09T02:00:58.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;See Pat Ludwig's answer - you can't play cards on a disconnected path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my group has always played that you can still continue the &quot;disconnected&quot; portion of the tunnel.  Of course, you can't win until it's reconnected to the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've always justified this by explaining that some dwarves were trapped in the disconnected portion of the tunnel after the fall :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2011-05-10T02:57:35.613" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T02:57:35.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3389" CreationDate="2011-05-09T02:12:26.920" Score="8" ViewCount="2500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can imagine that there is a point at which a single player would always be wise to no longer advance. I see it being a function of all of the various combinations. The problem is, I've never quite been able to figure out all of the probabilities of a given combination coming up. Does anyone out there know what the optimal value is where you are more likely to lose then to continue onward? BTW, the version I have is &lt;a href=&quot;http://amzn.to/my5hkd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, not sure if it makes a difference... Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T00:02:35.903" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T00:02:35.903" Title="In Pass the Pigs, when is the optimal point to stop?" Tags="|pass-the-pigs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3379" CreationDate="2011-05-09T02:35:00.253" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, and it's not particularly hard to do. Here's one solution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LQY2e.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this by placing the pawns first (because they are much more limited in their attack/defence potential), and then adding the pieces one at a time. Using this simple manual approach, it took about 15 minutes to find a solution. As an added constraint, I avoided placing the kings in check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are undoubtedly many alternative arrangements that would also work. It would be quite straightforward to write a computer program to search for valid configurations. A simple brute-force &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backtracking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;backtracking algorithm&lt;/a&gt; would probably suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1946" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T20:17:53.360" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T20:17:53.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3387" CreationDate="2011-05-09T09:59:08.797" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a much more complex issue than it at first seems.  The game of pass the pigs is derived from an older, simpler game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pig_%28dice%29&quot;&gt;Pig&lt;/a&gt;.  In Pig each player takes turns with a six sided die and may roll as many times as they like, or until they roll a 1.  If they roll a 1 they score nothing for the round, otherwise they score the total rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass the Pigs is roughly equivalent to this.  Think of a game with a weighted n-sided die, with sides &quot;Pig out&quot;, &quot;Double trotter&quot;, &quot;Razorback&quot;, etc.  A player may roll this die until they roll &quot;Pig out&quot;, and their score for the round is the cumulative score, or zero if a &quot;Pig out&quot; was rolled.  The difference is the inclusion of &quot;Making Bacon&quot; (reset your score to 0), and &quot;Piggy Back&quot; (player is out of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pig each player's optimal play is dependent only on the current scores. This means that when you receive the dice, you can calculate what your target score for the turn should be.  If you reach that score then you should bank it, and pass the dice on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia is a good starting point &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pig_%28dice%29#Optimal_Play&quot;&gt;for further information about optimal play&lt;/a&gt;.  Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://cs.gettysburg.edu/projects/pig/&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; has graphs and an AI opponent to demonstrate the best play in pig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So finally, it should be possible to apply the same methods to Pass the Pigs if you knew the probabilities of the various pig rolls.  These probabilities have been calculated &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amstat.org/publications/jse/v14n3/datasets.kern.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (see Table 4), using a data set of 6000 throws.  They have also calculated the value you should aim for to maximize your expected score in a turn in Section 3.2 (the target is about 21 or 22).  I can't find a similar analysis corresponding to multiplayer Pass the Pigs though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T09:59:08.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3384" CreationDate="2011-05-09T16:30:03.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such rule that I've been able to find.  I've checked both the rules and the scenario setups (both player and Keeper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing an altar to be destroyed would make the game significantly harder for the Keeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, the torch doesn't destroy any other objects, it just sets fires which are a significant environmental issue for the players to deal wih.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T16:30:03.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2011-05-09T19:39:29.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another method:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that my 5-6 player tokens have very dark gray numbers vs the normal tokens that have black numbers. It's hard to tell, but I could separate the two if I had to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer given by @LittleBobbyTables is correct, but I probably won't have easy access this webpage (unless I print it) when the blunder that mixes my number tokens occurs. If you know this trick, you'll have a fallback method. Note that this may or may not work depending on what edition your game is (mine is 4th).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T19:39:29.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3385" CreationDate="2011-05-09T21:16:17.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All new tunnels must connect to the ladder&lt;/strong&gt;.  This was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/836119#836119&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt; by the Designer on Boardgamegeek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when you play a path card it must be able to trace a path back to the start card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T21:16:17.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2740" CreationDate="2011-05-09T22:49:40.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a computer and an internet handy, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bettersettlers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; could solve all your troubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-05-09T22:49:40.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3251" CreationDate="2011-05-10T09:05:29.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In at least scenario 2 mythos and trauma cards are pretty cheap. For 1 threat you get 1 mythos or 1 trauma card per cultist. Playing the trauma card is in itself free. In my last game the keeper managed to get my insane investigator to run 3 spaces into one of her monsters who at once took a sample and ran through a locked door I couldn't follow. This ended up being probably the most important move in the game. I forced the investigators to go from passive to aggressive to stop the keeper from getting her last sample.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while the use will depend on the luck of the draw a well placed trauma card can change the course of the game. Many of the low insanity cards are really not nice. In a game where your objective is to kill the investigators you could get lucky and draw &quot;final solution&quot; and simply make the investigator kill themselves or the card that makes the investigator attack one of his friends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a couple of the scenarios you get trauma at the same time as you get mythos. This is a way to get some use out of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastEditorUserId="1193" LastEditDate="2011-05-11T06:40:33.990" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T06:40:33.990" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3399" CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:22:31.670" Score="63" ViewCount="5890" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/adxf7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trash a Treasure card from your hand.  Gain a Treasure card costing up to 3 more; put it into your hand.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I've got both Copper and Silver in my hand, which is better to trash in general and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T14:47:23.467" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T12:38:08.247" Title="Should I trash Copper or Silver with Mine?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-05-10T21:43:32.890" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general, my preference is to favor upgrading the silver to gold.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rationale is that I am trying to scale the value pyramid to get to the useful values of coins (5,6,8 typically).  With one gold I am likely to reach a good total coin value when the gold is drawn.  With the two silver, I'm more likely to have two mediocre hands instead of one good one (if the two silver come in the same hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T21:43:32.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-05-10T22:40:44.603" Score="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to have to disagree with Pat; &lt;strong&gt;I hate having Copper in my deck&lt;/strong&gt;, and rather have a consistent deck of Silvers.  Yes, it's nice if you get Gold - Copper - Copper in your hand, but Silver - Silver - Copper will buy the same amount.  Once you start running out of Coppers (or if you only have a Silver in your hand along with the mine), then you can start upgrading to Golds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's kind of hard to answer this question in vacuum, because there are so many different possibilities that could make one answer better than the other; for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're running an early Moneylender, upgrade the Silver to Gold, and use Moneylender on the Coppers to really ramp up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If someone is playing multiple Thiefs, I may not even bother with the Mine.  Or if I do get a mine, I'll upgrade Copper to Silver since losing a Silver isn't as bad as losing a Gold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-05-10T22:40:44.603" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-05-11T01:56:29.893" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The decision boils down to a few things, at least for me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extant gold, silver and copper ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number of remodels in the deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a lot of copper, I mine the copper into silver.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If I have a lot of silver, I mine the silver into gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a remodel, and am near the top of the VP race, having the gold to remodel into a province trumps having more silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is whether or not there's platinum in play. If platinum is available, moving the silver to gold is more valuable in that it gives me gold to mine into platinum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-12-26T03:50:10.057" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T03:50:10.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3402" CreationDate="2011-05-11T01:56:46.093" Score="6" ViewCount="1912" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have wanted to get a Mah Jongg set, but have hesistated because I don't know what to look for in a set so I don't buy something flimsy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest what makes a good (or bad) Mah Jongg set? (e.g. materials, printing, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1276" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T22:24:38.523" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T22:24:38.523" Title="Mah Jongg set recommendations?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2011-05-11T04:56:36.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good but inexpensive set:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decent weight bakelite or similar plastic pieces, readable &quot;engraved&quot; (molded, really) figures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've a set I paid $15 for back in 1988; it's got a few thousand hands on it (I used to play a full game of 16 hands every week, sometimes more than one), and it's still in great shape, but the vinyl over cardboard snap case is about dead. Replacing it would be about $25-$35 now. Higher end plastic sets run to about $50-$75&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the simplest &quot;traditional&quot; game, you need set with just the 7 honors (4 each: N, S, E, W, C {Red}, F {green}, and blank). You should hold out for one with 4 flowers and 4 seasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the American game, 8 &quot;big jokers&quot; are also needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's nice if the set has a deal marker and round marker; many times, this is a die for the round, and a carrier which the die fits into as a round marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all sets come with 3 pretty poor quality dice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally worth it to make certain at least the suit of 10,000's (characters) is marked with western numbers as well; it isn't needed, but is nice, on the suits of bamboo and coins (balls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The better looking the winds and seasons, the easier they are to tell from the 1 bamboo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some have marked extra tiles, usually marked &quot;B&quot;... I use these as my 7th honor, and reserve the blanks as replacement tiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More expensive set&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for the wood or bamboo to be slotted, and the ivory or bone to fit that slot tightly; you should see no space, and normally, the slot is dovetailed. Bone will have visible pores, and is pretty opaque; Ivory has a different pattern, and is slightly translucent. In both cases, look for paint only in the engraved areas, even pieces, and consistent size and color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find an ivory set for under $100, suspect that you're being had. Inexpensive ivory sets just don't exist... many that claim it are bleached bone, or even plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bone sets can look very nice. But they also run $50 to $150 depending on a lot of factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paper Sets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mah Jongg cards (often spelled &lt;em&gt;kards&lt;/em&gt;) are available for under $25. Most are only the traditional set, usually with both the four winds and four seasons, and the blank is replaced with a white dragon image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So long as the set is a comfortable size, and is plastic coated, it should work fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can make a passable set using a Mah Jongg font, and an business card template. If you laminate the cards with contact laminate, they come out feeling like lightweight japanese cards... And play just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other word of warning: when searching for Mah Jongg Cards, you'll get some hits that are the scoring combinations for the American Game, rather than cards with which you play the game itself. Kards almost always refers to playing pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Thoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you and those you play with are comfortable with the visible symbols, the set is good enough. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you find an american style set, it gives you the option to play either game. If you get a traditional set, you can't play the american game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T09:03:30.510" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T09:03:30.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4098" CreationDate="2011-05-11T09:52:31.163" Score="5" ViewCount="2988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played a few rounds of &lt;a href=&quot;http://open-site.org/Games/Dice/Bluff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bluff&lt;/a&gt; with a new group of players and I am currently a little lost in the early game. What's a good strategy to come out ahead of the first rounds? Here is what I have thought about myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The other 4 players:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the other players are not trying to analyze the playing styles of their opponents early on, so I am not worried about being easy to read, at least not in the beginning. Most of them have played a lot more than me so they have a better feeling for the flow of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do I want to achieve:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more I think about it the more obvious it gets. It looks like the early game revolves around not having to call a bluff or getting called. You want your opponents to call bluffs on each other because it is quite rare that you take any damage in that case (only if the exact amount has been bet). On the other hand you can earn nothing if you are involved in a challenged bet. That's why I feel that I have to create situations where I am not involved in the showdown. Is this line of thinking correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I achieve this goal:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it depends a lot on position. If I am the first to bet I have no information about the other players. There are 4 players in front of me so I want to make it easy for the next player to bet a larger amount while I don't want the betting to come back to me increased 4 times if noone calls a bluff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first round there are 20 dices out there hidden from me. With the numbers 1 to 5 and a joker on each dice the chance for each number (incl. the jokers) is 1/3. On average there will be a little less than 7 rolls of a certain number out there, a little more than 3 of them will be jokers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I rolled 1-1-2-3-J. What should I do? On average I expect 10 times &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt;, 9 times &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt;, 9 times &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt;, 8 times &lt;code&gt;4&lt;/code&gt; and 8 times &lt;code&gt;5&lt;/code&gt; (all of them incl. the jokers) and 4 times a Joker. If I start betting the average expected amount of any of those, it is better than a coin flip that I am right. But if I bet 10 times &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; and the next player has no &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;J&lt;/code&gt; it will be called immediately. Not what I want. Going for 8 times &lt;code&gt;4&lt;/code&gt; feels less risky to get called, that's why I would prefer to take that route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might even be better to calculate the expected value and go down a certain amount to be even safer. If I reduce one from the expected value it will be even harder for the next player to call a bluff. If I go down even more it gets better and better. Where do you think is the threshold in a game of 5 players? I could obviously start by betting 1 times &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; but I can be pretty sure that the betting will be back at me for sure, if no one raises the bet significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the same thinking patterns will apply when I am the second to make a bet. If I am allowed to make the same bet that I would have made in first place, I will make that one. If I have to go higher, I am already lost again. What range of values can I bet and when am I forced to call a bluff? I prefer the bet because I might avoid an showdown in which I am involved, but if the amount I have to bet is too high I will be called by the next player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transition into middle and endgame:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to keep middle and endgame out of this question. Once a significant amount of dices has been lost or the number of players is reduced the psychological factor weights more and more compared to a mathematical approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summing it up:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is a mathematical approach viable as long as there are 5 players with almost all the dices left?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much do I have to factor the play style of my opponents into the equation at that stage of the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a good betting strategy to avoid being involved in a showdown?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T07:09:48.867" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T17:32:42.770" Title="Bluff - Early game strategy (5 players)" Tags="|liars-dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3407" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:36:42.823" Score="17" ViewCount="15074" Body="&lt;p&gt;How useful is that rule and how many times we can use that in one game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under what conditions can the en passant rule be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often does it come up and is it a good idea to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T04:35:35.137" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T13:24:12.810" Title="What is the &quot;En passant&quot; rule in chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3401" CreationDate="2011-05-11T10:56:50.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sloperama.com/mjfaq/whereg.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sloperama.com/mjfaq/whereg.htm&lt;/a&gt; has all the answers you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tips For Buyers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Caveat Emptor. When you see an&#xA;  attractive mah-jongg item for sale,&#xA;  make sure it's really got everything&#xA;  you need. How many time have I heard,&#xA;  &quot;I got a wonderful Chinese-style&#xA;  mah-jongg set but it doesn't have&#xA;  enough tiles,&quot; or &quot;I got a wonderful&#xA;  Japanese mah-jongg set but I can't&#xA;  tell the Winds apart!&quot; I've bought a&#xA;  lot of sets on eBay, and have learned&#xA;  about some specific things to watch&#xA;  for when buying a set...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;How many tiles does the set contain? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Are the tiles marked with Western indices? (Or is everything in&#xA;  Chinese?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If your type of mah-jongg requires special tiles, are those tiles&#xA;  present?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;What condition is the set in?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Are all the bits &amp;amp; pieces included?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Is the set suitable for the sort of mah-jongg you play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Is the seller's price competitive?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site also links to a reliable list of sellers as well as lots of information about buying sets. It also helps in selecting which kind of set (Japanese, American, ...) to chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T10:56:50.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-05-11T15:13:00.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd do copper to silver, but I also don't usually buy mine if there aren't any other treasure cards available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T15:13:00.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3404" CreationDate="2011-05-11T15:53:03.853" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;En Passant&lt;/strong&gt; is when an opponent's pawn is two ranks away from your pawn row (either 4th or 5th rank depending on color), and you move your pawn two spaces forward with one move, so that is is next to his pawn.  You are allowed to make your first move with a pawn two spaces, but the &lt;strong&gt;En Passant&lt;/strong&gt; capture allows your opponent to capture you just as if you had moved one space.  Note, that this capture is only allowed as the very next move.  This prevents you from being able to sneak pawns by your opponent's pawns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UXhZu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not only useful, but chess would be a completely different game without it, since everyone would have to be very concerned about moving a pawn to the 4th or 5th rank, knowing that a pawn could get past them.  The main way you could change it so that the game wouldn't change radically is to disallow 2-space moves by pawns, but that is still a substantial change from the way's it been*, and would eliminate the majority of standard openings. A less tumultuous change would be to simply prohibit double movement in the cases where an en passant capture would be possible. This would have almost the same exact effect as the en passant rule, since it happens more often that the threat of an en passant capture is enough to make an opponent not move two spaces, and actual uses of the move are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* unless you go back to the 15th century, when the ability to move pawns two spaces was &lt;strong&gt;added&lt;/strong&gt; to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T22:53:13.550" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T22:53:13.550" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3415" CreationDate="2011-05-11T21:55:33.987" Score="52" ViewCount="26384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to play my first round of Dominion (+ Intrigue Expansion) this weekend with 4 other players who have played Dominion before. I have read the rules and now I want to avoid the typical traps a beginner might fall into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the big and tempting mistakes that you see new players make in Dominion? Is there any other advise for the first steps in this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T19:01:33.950" LastActivityDate="2017-06-06T06:15:01.443" Title="What are mistakes beginners should avoid in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-05-11T22:27:48.117" Score="62" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is victory points. Period. Nothing else matters. If something is not actively helping you get more or your opponents get less, don't do it. It seems obvious that I'm telling you to remember how to win, but its very easy to go super-heavy on kingdom cards until you realize its too late...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, the way to get victory points is with $$$. When I was learning I loved to pull of the 10 card action combos that took me 14+ turns to build, but when I realized I still had only made 7$ by the end of it I started looking at things differently. Solution: Make sure you have enough powerful treasures and actions that give +coins. Gold is king!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Keep an eye on end-game. How many provinces are left? Which piles are low? What are your predictions for what people are about to buy? If you know you have the most victory points, sometimes you just want to make the game end as fast as possible. If you can use a Coppersmith to get 1 or 2 provinces early, and then use plenty of +buys cards to buy up 3 piles of cost 2 and 3 cards before your opponents decks really get rolling, go for it. Its so funny when your opponents have just built these gold stocked decks to nail provinces and they realize you just ended the game and won with 10 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know what cards will maximize your average $ per card ratio. If you have plenty of treasures in your deck, a smithy is often even better than a gold. Likewise, if you have plenty of actions that give you +cards, make sure you have treasures to back them up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2155/evaluating-a-dominion-kingdom-set/2163#2163&quot;&gt;Know the difference between early game cards, mid-game cards, and late game cards.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Watch your terminal actions. There's nothing that sucks more than drawing 5 terminal actions and having to just pick one of them to play. Try to balance your terminals with you chain actions. On the other hand, don't overload on +actions if you have very few terminals. A few of my friends love the 'village idiot' strategy: get 6 or more villages and have giant chains of them every turn. If you're not using the extra action from a village, its completely and utterly useless as all it does is replace itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know the basic strategies, like drawing lots of cards, big money, attack cards, and trashing your bad cards as early as possible. These &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/381/what-are-good-standard-tactics-for-dominion&quot;&gt;are covered very thoroughly here&lt;/a&gt;, so I'll just leave it at that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2155/evaluating-a-dominion-kingdom-set/2163#2163&quot;&gt;Know how to evaluate a kingdom set&lt;/a&gt; to see what strategies will be strongest. Note how each attack card will change things, and how you need to adjust your strategy. I cover this more in the linked post.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T22:27:48.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-05-11T23:40:12.577" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buy money and provinces instead of actions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number 1 problem I've seen beginners make in Dominion is not buying treasures and provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your hand generates 3 coins you should buy a silver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your hand generates 6 coins you should buy a gold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your hand generates 8 coins you should buy a province&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you go against the above plan, make sure you know why.  There are definitely reasons not to buy a silver or gold.  However, does your deck really need a possession?  Or are you just buying it because it is cool?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you learn those simple rules (known as the &quot;Big Money&quot; deck) you will start to see good reasons for buying a couple additional cards to help move your deck along faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second tip would be to trash copper whenever given a chance.  Thinning your deck is almost always a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-11T23:40:12.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-05-12T00:53:21.273" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the other answers are really great, so I just want to add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't buy the Copper.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper cost 0 to buy; if you draw a dead hand (all victory points, for example), there's absolutely no shame in skipping your turn.  It will ultimately end up bloating your deck and make it more likely you draw a $1 card instead of something more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I've seen people with multiple buys for the turn spent all their money on their first buy, and then take a free Copper.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you happen to be playing with Gardens ($4 card, worth 1 VP for each 10 cards in your deck) and want to artificially bloat your deck for the chance at an extra VP, don't buy the Copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-05-12T00:58:26.110" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T00:58:26.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21" CreationDate="2011-05-12T02:16:12.030" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The house moves to the owner's bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Monopoly_Deal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Monopoly_Deal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a property set has a House/Hotel on&#xA;it and the property set is broken up,&#xA;the House/Hotel is moved to the&#xA;owner's bank, per Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/375594/rules-clarification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/375594/rules-clarification&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hasbro wrote:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you break up a full&#xA;set that has houses and hotels, those&#xA;houses and hotels have to go into your&#xA;bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1280" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-12-14T22:44:05.063" LastActivityDate="2022-12-14T22:44:05.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-05-12T04:13:59.793" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Biggest noob mistake is watering down your deck early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider buying silver and gold as &quot;Great&quot; moves. Don't be tempted by all the shiny action cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a chance, get something that allows you to discard or upgrade an existing card so you can get rid of those crappy starting cards.  Don't be afraid to throw away copper!  Getting rid of cheap cards is often a fantastic strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go &quot;Pro&quot; and take some action cards, be wary of &quot;Dead-end&quot; cards that don't have at least +1 action.  Get a few of these in your hand and your hand will be next to useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1281" LastActivityDate="2011-05-12T04:13:59.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-12T16:53:43.433" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of years ago (... 5ish now I think) I played a game called Europe Engulfed a few times, and loved it.  Since moving a few years back, I have not had anyone to play with locally.  Recently, a friend of mine expressed interest, and we are going to try another game in the series first, Asia Engulfed.  I have read that the rules are a little simpler (in that there are many less sub factions), and since I have not played it, I felt it might help even the playing field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, I remember the first time I played Europe Engulfed, we made a number of strange rules mistakes - the type of thing beginners do when trying out a new, fairly complex board game.  Does anyone have any experience with this game?  Any specific gotchas to watch out for?  Any recommendations for general strategy that I can share with my &quot;opponent&quot;?  As I want to be able to keep playing it, it is in my best interest to make sure we start on as even a footing as possible.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T12:14:30.613" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T22:55:35.347" Title="Any gotchas/common mistakes for first time players playing Asia Engulfed?" Tags="|asia-engulfed|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3434" CreationDate="2011-05-13T07:46:02.950" Score="8" ViewCount="2676" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like the idea of the game 1000 Blank White Cards (aka 1000bwc), and have played it a couple times. Seems like there is some variation with the rules (yes, there are rules) and want to get some recommendation for the best or most fun rules to play with from others who have played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:31:41.167" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:31:41.167" Title="Recommended rules for 1000 Blank White Cards" Tags="|1000-blank-white-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3459" CreationDate="2011-05-13T07:50:52.913" Score="2" ViewCount="6855" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I play Hand and Foot from time to time. We have toyed with the idea of allowing a book of 3's to count positive, with the caveat that they are only positive if the book is closed and clean. If the book is not closed and clean then each of the 3's has their usual negative score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have not found this particularly effective because if a player attempts it then the state of that book determines the winner of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if anyone else has tried a book of 3's in Hand and Foot and if they have found a way to make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T02:11:10.440" LastActivityDate="2021-03-23T22:36:20.893" Title="Does a book of 3's in Hand and Foot work?" Tags="|house-rules|hand-and-foot|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3445" CreationDate="2011-05-13T07:52:40.930" Score="4" ViewCount="12481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some friends of ours taught us &quot;Hand and Foot&quot; but I have never seen any official rules for it. What I have seen varies from site to site quite a bit. I am curious if someone could tell me the history of Hand and Foot and if there are some official rules, or at least a recommended set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T02:10:59.363" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T21:38:57.333" Title="Official Rules for Hand and Foot?" Tags="|hand-and-foot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3433" CreationDate="2011-05-13T07:55:45.330" Score="9" ViewCount="1409" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am just getting back into Magic: The Gathering, and I see a lot of people talking about specific decks, like &lt;strong&gt;CawBlade&lt;/strong&gt;. So my question is two fold, is there someplace that lists what cards make up these specific decks, and are these specific decks always the same (does every CawBlade deck have the same cards) or are they just similar decks with the same theme?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is two questions . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:20:53.403" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T17:20:53.403" Title="Where can I find a good source for  standard decks in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3852" CreationDate="2011-05-13T07:59:50.770" Score="22" ViewCount="73791" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son really likes Pokémon, and owns a lot of cards. He mostly plays the video games and reads the books, but wants to build a Pokemon deck to play as well. We understand the basic rules. I know decks can only have four of each type of card (except basic energy) and must have exactly 60 cards total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is if there is a recommendation for how many cards of each type to have in a deck. I've played &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt;, but applying the same logic used there doesn't seem to work because energy behaves differently than mana. I've read some web sites that have recommendations, but when we play with those ratios it seems like I never draw enough basic Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been trying to adjust things, but I thought I would see if there were some recommendations from people who are currently playing Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:19:32.530" LastActivityDate="2022-11-23T08:41:20.463" Title="What is a good Pokemon deck ratio?" Tags="|deck-building|pokemon|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3444" CreationDate="2011-05-13T08:05:05.087" Score="4" ViewCount="2552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Magic: The Gathering, one of my son's plays Pokemon, and the other plays Yu-Gi-Oh!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got a deck building tool for my iPad to build Magic decks, but I am curious if there is an app for building decks for all three card games. Ideally one that knows the rules about different styles of decks and card games too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ideal tool would sync the decks between my iPad, Mac and Windows computers, but that may be asking to much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:19:21.470" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T17:19:21.470" Title="Multi-Game Deck Building Tool" Tags="|deck-building|online|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2011-05-13T10:37:53.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of these decks have been created for competitions and are competition winners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find decks by name:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgvault.com/DeckSearch.aspx&quot;&gt;mtgvault&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moxdiamond.com/Decks.html&quot;&gt;moxdiamond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/category/decklists/&quot;&gt;competitions decks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a lot more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you will see when searching for specific decks, your second question will answer itself.&#xA;Most specific decks originate from competition play and have been winners or performed well at some point. So originally they had a fixed list of cards but when they became public many people improved them with other cards. So you will find the official cawblade that won competition x as well as other improved versions from anonymous players with some different cards but the main strategy doesn't change and is based around the same few cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastEditorDisplayName="user545" LastEditDate="2011-05-13T13:20:08.650" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T13:20:08.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3427" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:19:29.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played the game based on a badly remembered skim through the rules, and that version has stuck.  We also call it 1001 blank cards because we remembered the title incorrectly!  Personally I think it's better than the original game, but I'm sure many would disagree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set up, each player is given a pen and something to lean on.  A deck is created containing about 50-100 cards.  Most of the cards should already be written, and some should be blank ones.  Before the first game this will require the creation of a load of new cards, but we usually each create new cards before a game anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards are shuffled, each player is dealt five, and then the rest are placed in a draw pile.  Each player starts with a score of zero and the player with the highest score at the end is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A players turn consists of playing a card from their hand into a discard pile, following the rule, and then replacing it with a card from the deck.  If a player takes (or is dealt) a blank card then they must create a new card, and place it at the bottom of the draw deck. They may then take a replacement card from the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each card must have three parts - a title, a picture and a rule.  There are no restrictions on the rules on the card, but we have a gentlemanly agreement not to obviously benefit ourselves with the rules - e.g. we tend not to create cards that say &quot;Jack gets a million points&quot;.  The other thing to take into account is replay-ability, as any of the cards could end up being used in future games.  However, it is a source of constant amusement to be playing with cards that no longer make sense - e.g. &quot;Score 10 points if you can guess how many baubles are on the Christmas tree&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the draw deck is exhausted, play continues, but players no longer pick up new cards.  When a player has no cards that will go, and the draw deck is exhausted, then the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major benefit of our version of the rules, compared with other versions I have seen, is that there is less incentive to create a good or bad card.  Whenever you create a card you do not know who will end up playing it.  The primary aim is to get the most points, but I think everyone agrees that the real aim is to create the most noteworthy cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:19:29.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2011-05-13T15:40:28.740" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best idea is to check out a few sites that are dedicated to the game. Most of them have a collections of Pro players that write for the sites, which gives a lot of insight if you are into reading about the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other sites provide a resource for viewing decks, seeing what decks work, and also seeing the decklists for decks that have done well at big tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://starcitygames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://starcitygames.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.channelfireball.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty more, but check out these three to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1288" LastActivityDate="2011-05-13T15:40:28.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2011-05-13T20:37:56.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't be afraid to copy other players, if they know what they're doing. Don't buy coppers, don't buy coppers, don't buy estates until it's the end of the game, same for duchies in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1035" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T15:06:10.647" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T15:06:10.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3453" CreationDate="2011-05-13T21:23:33.963" Score="8" ViewCount="15314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has the number of Knight/Year of Plenty/Road Building/Victory Point/Monopoly cards in Settlers of Catan's development card deck evolved across editions, or is the latest edition the same as the first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what was its progression?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T19:03:36.873" Title="How has the composition of Catan's development card deck changed over time?" Tags="|catan|components|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3447" CreationDate="2011-05-13T23:37:17.400" Score="9" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rs6gH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possession is easily one of the most controversial and game-changing cards in Dominion, and I've often heard it described with disgust by many players. Most Dominion cards require you to take advantage of the power of your own deck, and thus are relatively easy to come up with a strategy for. But Possession usually requires you to take advantage of your opponent's deck instead! How can I tell if Possession is a good buy and how should I use it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Links to the Dominion strategy blog are fine, but please make sure your answer actually contains a good complete answer and not just the link. :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T13:44:44.880" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:44:44.880" Title="When should I buy a Possession in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3441" CreationDate="2011-05-14T02:03:15.153" Score="6" ViewCount="6952" Body="&lt;p&gt;As seen in this question ...&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2733/playing-executive-orders-on-self&quot;&gt;Playing &amp;quot;Executive Orders&amp;quot; on self&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Executive Order lets another player take 2 Actions if they don't move.  From my understanding of the rules this means the other player could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play another Executive Order on me, allow 2 players to take many actions in a row.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow Cylons to do as listed above, which can be devastating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow a player to move out of Sickbay without penalty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow a player to move out of jail (does Executive Order 'allowing moving' trump jail 'not allowing moving'?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems too powerful.  We play with the following modified rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No chaining, 1 Executive Order allows the receiving player to play any action other than an Executive Order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player may use the Move to exit jail, however this forfeits the 'action'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have an official rule source on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T14:13:41.110" Title="Use of Executive Order in Battlestar Galatica" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3439" CreationDate="2011-05-14T02:34:10.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much of this is covered in the &lt;strong&gt;FAQ and Errata&lt;/strong&gt;, which you can find a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=18&amp;amp;esem=4&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can't play 2 Executive Orders on the same turn.  Under &lt;strong&gt;Errata&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The “Executive Order” Skill Card should include the following&#xA;  text: Limit of 1 “Executive Order” card may be used per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Revealed Cylons can't play Executive Orders on each other (though &lt;em&gt;un&lt;/em&gt;-revealed Cylons, sure!). Under &lt;strong&gt;Cylon Players&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can a revealed Cylon player be targeted by the “Executive&#xA;  Order” Skill Card or Quorum Cards?&lt;br/&gt;A: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Under &lt;strong&gt;The Brig and Sickbay&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can a player in “Sickbay” move out of that location if&#xA;  targeted by an “Executive Order” Skill Card?&lt;br/&gt;A: Yes. If the player moves out of “Sickbay” before the start of&#xA;  his turn, then he will not be restricted to drawing a single card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I read it that a player may not move out of the Brig voluntarily, not even due to an Executive Orders free move. I don't think anything explicitly states this rule, but I generally feel that &quot;You may not move&quot; from the Brig trumps the &quot;You may move&quot; from Executive Orders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your house rules, the first rule is good (and in the Errata).  The second rule &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be not strictly in the rules, and I personally don't think it's a good idea - it would make Executive Orders more powerful than it already is (which is already quite powerful!) and the Brig less bad.  The Brig is supposed a scary place to be and hard to get out of; being able to Executive Order someone out of it seems like it diminishes that too much for my tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2011-05-14T04:40:23.330" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T04:40:23.330" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-05-14T05:26:57.700" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have Platinum cards in play, your best bet is to mine Gold ($3) to Platinum ($5).  This also applies to mining Silver to Gold so you have the Golds to mine to Platinums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with Prosperity, you may also have other options, such as Silver to Royal Seal or Hoard. Like Gold, Hoard can be mined directly to Platinum, but it also gives you the opportunity to get golds by buying Victory cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the others, most of the time you'll want to mine Silvers to Golds first.  Here are just a few cards this applies to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trash Coppers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moneylender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading Post&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mint (to purchase)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spice Merchant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give Coppers to other players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Masquerade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambassador&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play specific actions related to Coppers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coppersmith &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apothecary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counting House&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silver/Gold work better with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mint (to play)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Herbalist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll want to mine Copper to Silver first if these cards are in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saboteur (Silvers prevent other cards from being trashed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swindler (avoid gaining Curses)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutpurse (only discards Copper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forge (Copper is worth 0 for Forging)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jester (Enemy gains a Silver instead of you gaining a Copper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother with a Mine at all and concentrate more on action cards that give you money if one of these is in play with no defense cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thief (Trashes up to 1 treasure, opponent has option to gain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pirate Ship (Trashes up to 1 treasure)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noble Brigand (Trashes up to 1 Silver or Gold, opponent gains)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noble Brigand can only steal Silvers and Golds, so mining to non-standard treasures or Platinums is OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T16:16:45.383" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T16:16:45.383" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3430" CreationDate="2011-05-14T06:29:36.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the sites abovementioned are very good - but you could also go straight to the official site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/decklists&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/decklists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast's coverage of its own products is not &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; the most unbiased, but you can't really go wrong with all these successful decklists from events around the world...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T06:29:36.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3432" CreationDate="2011-05-14T07:34:52.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might be interested in these projects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gccg.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Generic Collectible Card Game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.octgn.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OCTGN&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicworkstation.com/overview.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MWS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first one, last updated end 2009 apparently and it seems there's no yugioh support (to be verified) Lots of addons though and scripting language so that might be doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try to dig in that list here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=56796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=56796&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I hate you for reminding me that this game is terribly addicting :)&#xA;I'll keep the link above in my favorites but will refrain from installing anything! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastEditorDisplayName="user545" LastEditDate="2011-05-15T14:39:03.910" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T14:39:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3429" CreationDate="2011-05-14T08:37:48.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hand8foot.com/rulesandscoring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hand8foot.com/rulesandscoring/&lt;/a&gt;  , might be helpful for you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1294" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T08:37:48.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3438" CreationDate="2011-05-14T12:49:29.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I rarely design my deck to specifically target Possession, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 coins plus a potion is difficult to get&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know what my neighbor will have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I do have potions in my deck, and I happen to run across 6 coins and a potion during the game, I'll evaluate at that point.  Usually if the person to your left has any kind of reasonable deck (they're buying Golds and such) it will be worth it to get Possession.  Sometimes their deck is complete garbage and it's not worthwhile because possessing them will just clutter your deck with more Silver or other low-cost cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, by buying Possession you're essentially sacrificing at least one Gold you could have had, so the hands you're possessing need to be of some minimum level of quality to make that tradeoff worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I only get Possession in games where the other potion-costing cards make buying a potion worthwhile, and where if I don't happen to put together 6 coins plus a potion in a single hand, there's still a viable strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T12:49:29.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3438" CreationDate="2011-05-14T16:14:43.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the game is likely to end quickly on piles (e.g., a good Gardens setup), then you may not even have time to purchase a Possession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are attacks that directly hurt your opponent (e.g., cursing or hand-size attacks), then Possession becomes less valuable, especially in a two-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-05-14T16:14:43.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3429" CreationDate="2011-05-14T18:05:41.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand and foot, being subject mostly to oral transmission in a predominantly written culture, has suffered memory errors galore. Since it's origin is clouded by oral transmission, an &quot;official&quot; set of rules is a practical impossibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that it's &quot;Tripled deck Canasta&quot;, and that you have the hand and the foot, you play from the hand until it's out, then play your foot until it's out.  Where the original rules are, I've not seen. I know I've encountered three very similar versions, and Raja's post lead to a fourth, significantly different, version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important element is only to be clear in your play group what the rules are when you as a group play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-05-16T04:25:14.193" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T04:25:14.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="159" CreationDate="2011-05-15T02:05:31.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found some house rules for SimCity &lt;a href=&quot;http://homepage.ntlworld.com/andy.merritt/HouseRules/SimCityHouseRules.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; &lt;sup&gt;(TXT)&lt;/sup&gt;, which don't address all of your issues, but had some interesting ideas, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If playing the common deck game, then consider splitting the deck further as follows:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One pile for Phase 1 &amp;amp; 2 cards + Phase 3 Power Plants + Council Members&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One pile for Phase 3 &amp;amp; 4 cards + Events&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One pile for Long cards&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may draw from the Phase 1 &amp;amp; 2 deck anytime&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may draw from the Phase 3 &amp;amp; 4 deck in phases 2-4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may draw from the Long Cards in Phases 3 &amp;amp; 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may play &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; event card in addition to placing a block on your turn (presumably to done down events)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minimum size of a zone or complex before it counts as a zone / complex is 2.  City Services are wild for all zones in the normal way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Zone and Complex Bonus are calculated normally, except that only cards which are within 2 blocks of the block being played count as within the complex / zone for purposes of calculating the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played SimCity before, so I can't say for certainty how useful his rules are, but they look promising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T02:05:31.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2011-05-15T16:18:25.807" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd willingly wager that there is not a single kingdom set where big money is the best strategy&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group has played dominion more than 10 times together, you should have very little trouble accomplishing this. If you ever find a situation where you think you can't beat BM, post the kingdom set here and we'll gladly attack it for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to really test the strength of big money, you can add another 'fake' player: one that is not played by one human being, but played by all the players according to the rules of what to buy with different $$ levels for the BM strategy. This helps you figure out if you're group is beating BM without having any player have to actually use that strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group often plays against basic decks like this, sometimes adding a little spice, like having the fake big money player also buy 1 chapel, smithy, or mine. You can even play dominion solo this way, and its a great way to test your own strategy and learn how big money works. This turns Dominion into more than just a 'beat your opponent' game, but a 'let's see if we can beat the default strategies.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-05-15T16:18:25.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3437" CreationDate="2011-05-16T00:17:54.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen no indications of changes by edition, but note that Cities and Knights alters it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T00:17:54.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3437" CreationDate="2011-05-16T06:16:21.327" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has stayed the same from the beginning (though Mayfair has changed some rules and the map in the last edition):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 Soldiers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Victory Points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Monopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Road Building&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Year of Plenty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T06:16:21.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3432" CreationDate="2011-05-16T07:59:52.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.octgn.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;OCTGN&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll expand on this one because it's the only tool I'm familiar with. Just to be specific, the software on that site is also known as OCTGN 2. It is the redesign of a previous application with the same name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway. OCTGN is much more than just a deck builder, you can play any game that has a module build for OCTGN. As such the focus of development rests heavily on the &quot;playing games&quot; aspect of the software and the deck builder is somewhat simplistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still I recommend you try it, maybe it'll be enough for your needs. It will probably take quite some downloading until you have all the sets you need. They can be quite big when they include high quality pictures. I know for a fact that MtG is available for it and I think the other two games are too...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T07:59:52.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="563" CreationDate="2011-05-16T13:25:44.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got introduced to 18xx through &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/937/1825-unit-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;1825 Unit 1&quot;&gt;1825&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (specifically Unit 1, then Units 2 and 3) and trying more 183x inspired variants later, like 1856, I've value the introduction I got. The more constrained board and the shorter playing time was a real advantage. Also, the game felt a bit more forgiving of mistakes. One of the big disadvantages to the 1825 series, though, is their relative rarity -- if you don't already own a copy, you'll probably find it quite difficult to get one: they were assembled by Tresham in relatively small numbers, and the run of readily available copies has long since sold out, I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years later, I played &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/76417/poseidon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Poseidon&quot;&gt;Poseidon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, a game I believe is specifically intended as an introduction to 18xx-style games. As with Tresham's 1825 units, the game play is shorter, and the field somewhat more constrained than in most 1830-inspired games; for better, or worse, Poseidon &quot;re-imagines&quot; 18xx to a certain extent, using different theme and terminology. But I do believe that it's a good gateway to 18xx games, proper -- for players comfortable with the playing time and difficulty in games like Le Havre or Age Of Steam or Brass, Poseidon can easily act as an enjoyable bridge to full-blown 18xx. Poseidon was also produced by a game studio (Lookout Games) and so is probably much easier to find than 1825 units at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are some 18xx games that I believe were rather specifically intended as means to introduce people to games; you can find entries for the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/50903/so-youre-thinking-about-giving-18xx-a-try&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;So you're thinking about giving 18xx a try?&quot;&gt;So, you're thinking about giving 18xx a try?&lt;/a&gt;&quot; list at boardgamegeek: &lt;strong&gt;18EU&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Steam Over Holland&lt;/strong&gt; (and Poseidon). But also, you'll find a lot of commentary and comments on the pros and cons of introducing newbies to 18xx with a wider variety of games not often thought of as starting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T13:25:44.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-05-16T17:19:45.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing we like to do is eliminate sevens from the first two rounds.  If a player rolls a seven then the dice are thrown again.  This has several consequences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No one worries about losing half their cards when a seven is rolled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No one worries about having a card stolen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Key resources are not blocked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is that very little building happens on the first round because everyone would rather wait for their second turn when they have more resources and information.  So the first round goes quicker and initial expansion is faster as everyone builds on the second round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1305" LastActivityDate="2011-05-16T17:19:45.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2990" CreationDate="2011-05-17T00:06:35.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A German friend of mine translated the card game (I also bought it in Germany, but can't read German), it is available here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1E5Q4pf_CTP3kNiyWrx9gQSWer4NlRT6gvnNj5mKm1mc/edit?hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Translation of Shaun the sheep card game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1308" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T00:06:35.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3428" CreationDate="2011-05-17T03:15:20.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're playing with the Red (100) Black (5) variation (there are not official rules for hand and foot), then the purpose of the 3's is to add a bit of randomness to the game to offset player ability.  If your goal is to remove this randomness, then you can simply treat all 3's as normal cards and the game will 'work' just fine.   I have played that particular variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure by which rules you're playing, but if you're allowing threes to hit the table singly, and also allowing the bonus for making a book of them, it's a bit of an unfair advantage to that random chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/handfoot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat - Rules to Hand and Foot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T03:15:20.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3462" CreationDate="2011-05-17T22:09:40.890" Score="26" ViewCount="2268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have an 8-length road and Longest Road, but later someone splits my road in half with a settlement, leaving me two 4-length roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming no one else has a longer road than me, do I lose Longest Road, given that my road no longer has a length of at least 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T20:57:43.317" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T20:57:43.317" Title="Can a 4-length road ever be Longest Road in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3468" CreationDate="2011-05-17T22:19:06.460" Score="3" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Keeper Action cards in MoM specifically state &quot;This card can be used only once per Keeper turn.&quot; Other specifically state that a card may be used a number of times - once per monster on the board, or some such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most of the cards are not specific. Does this mean they can be used multiple times per Keeper turn by default?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - the Raise Dead card allows the Keeper to spend 1 Threat to place a corpse token or spend 2 Threat to replace a corpse with a Zombie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I as Keeper spend 3 Threat to place the corpse and replace it with the Zombie? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, can I keep doing that as long as I have enough Threat to spend? (Subject to the limited number of Zombie figures, of course)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-05-17T22:39:18.437" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T19:51:00.353" Title="Keeper Action Card Reuse in Mansions of Madness" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2011-05-17T22:27:00.023" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;You lose longest road; by definition, none of you have a road with a length of at least 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Set the “Longest Road” card aside if—after a longest road is broken—several players tie for the new longest road or no one has a 5+ segment road. The “Longest Road” card comes into play again when only 1 player has the longest road (of at least 5 road pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T22:27:00.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3460" CreationDate="2011-05-17T22:27:22.253" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universityofcatan.com/faq/faqq48301.html&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The longest road card is retained by&#xA;  it's current owner until one of two&#xA;  things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another player builds a road that is then longer than the longest road&#xA;  of the current card-holder. In this&#xA;  case, the new longest road owner takes&#xA;  the longest road card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The longest road is broken by the placement of a settlement along its&#xA;  length (remember to obey the 2-step&#xA;  rule). In this case, everyone must&#xA;  check to see who has the longest road.&#xA;  If any single player has the longest&#xA;  road (note that it could be the same&#xA;  as the old player with the longest&#xA;  road) than that player takes the card&#xA;  and the two points. If more than one&#xA;  player has the longest road, or if no&#xA;  player has a road of at least 5&#xA;  segments, then no one gets the longest&#xA;  road card and it is set aside. As soon&#xA;  as any player builds a longest road of&#xA;  at least 5 segments, then he may claim&#xA;  the card as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-17T22:27:22.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-05-18T16:03:47.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's the &lt;strong&gt;Swindler&lt;/strong&gt; around, then getting rid of the &lt;em&gt;coppers&lt;/em&gt; is of first priority!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="125" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T16:03:47.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1191" CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:22:49.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seafarers, Cities and Knights, and Traders and Barbarians are all &lt;strong&gt;expansions&lt;/strong&gt; for Settlers of Catan. Every expansion requires the original game to setup and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The various expansions &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be mixed. For example, Seafarers and Cities and Knights can be combined without trouble. In some cases the rules conflict - in which case adjustments need to be made. The Traders and Barbarians game manual describes some of the possible combinations. Many more combinations are listed on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/catan-games/boardgame/traders-and-barbarians/combinations.html&quot;&gt;Catan.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Combinations with &quot;Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&quot;&#xA;    The Fishermen of Catan - The Rivers of Catan&#xA;    The Fishermen of Catan - The Caravans&#xA;    The Fishermen of Catan - Barbarian Attack&#xA;    The Fishermen of Catan - Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&#xA;    The Rivers of Catan - The Caravans&#xA;    The Rivers of Catan - Barbarian Attack&#xA;    The Rivers of Catan - Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&#xA;    The Caravans - Barbarian Attack&#xA;    The Caravans - Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&#xA;    Barbarian Attack - Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&#xA;&#xA;Combinations with &quot;Seafarers&quot;&#xA;    The Fishermen of Catan - Seafarers&#xA;    The Rivers of Catan - Seafarers&#xA;    The Caravans - Seafarers&#xA;    Barbarian Attack - Seafarers&#xA;    Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians - Seafarers&#xA;&#xA;Combinations with &quot;Cities &amp;amp; Knights&quot;&#xA;    Catan for 2 - Cities &amp;amp; Knights&#xA;    The Fishermen of Catan - Cities &amp;amp; Knights&#xA;    The Rivers of Catan - Cities &amp;amp; Knights&#xA;    The Caravans - Cities &amp;amp; Knights&#xA;    Barbarian Attack - Cities &amp;amp; Knights&#xA;    Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians - Cities &amp;amp; Knights&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not limited by these &quot;official&quot; suggestions. You could combine any set of Catan expansions, variants, extensions, or scenarios as long as you understand the rules well enough to resolve any conflicting rules before you start playing. That said, some combinations would be harder to resolve than others (like Cities and Knights + Barbarian Attack which have overlapping concepts with different implementations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastEditorUserId="274" LastEditDate="2011-05-18T19:31:34.227" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T19:31:34.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3461" CreationDate="2011-05-18T19:51:00.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless restricted by the card, the Keeper is only restricted by his available threat in terms of using the same Keeper Action multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/633474/uncontrollable-urges-officially-fixed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this errata&lt;/a&gt; by the designer on BoardGameGeek.  It's obvious that the errata is meant to limit the usage.  If the default was once/turn, there would be no need for the errata.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-18T19:51:00.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25" CreationDate="2011-05-19T00:04:06.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think yes, because it's like using a Panic on a player with no cards. Here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beer has an effective range of [Casting Player]. It automatically hits the person who plays it without fail. Since it is not out of range, it can be played. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Panic has an effective range of [1]. If you are going to compare the two, you must assume that the player being targeted is also in range, just as the Beer casting player is in range of the card &quot;Beer&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a more fair comparison than Tycho's because both cards can technically be played at this point, but neither will be able to have its intended effect; Beer wont be able to restore the health point since the player is at max and Panic wont be able to draw a card from a player because that player doesn't have a card to draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new question is &quot;Can you play cards that have no effect?&quot; The answer to this is most likely yes. One in game clue to this is that the character &quot;Apache Kid.&quot; He is unaffected by diamonds, yet this does not mean you cannot play a diamond on him. The diamond card will simply have no effect. If we carry this rule on to normal play, one should be able to Beer them self when at full health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1322" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-05T10:03:25.530" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T10:03:25.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3146" CreationDate="2011-05-19T04:22:47.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with Descent is that some maps are balanced towards the Heroes, and others towards the Overlord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still find the heroes are losing a lot on most of the maps, in my opinion, your best bet is to pick up The Tomb of Ice expansion. It adds Feat cards for the heroes which are quite powerful, especially when you add them to the base maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If buying an expansion is not an option for you, there are many, many ways to rebalance the game. Some examples could include: Reduce the Overlord's threat by 1/turn, give the heroes more starting coins, allow the heroes to pick their starting characters or feats, use the monster cards designed for 1 fewer player etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these are bigger balance shifts than others, but if you play around with them a little, you'll probably find something that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it's possible that your hero team just isn't playing as well as the Overlord. This forum has pages of strategy for the heroes and Overlord. Why not get the hero team to have a look? &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/429/descent-journeys-in-the-dark/strategy&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/429/descent-journeys-in-the-dark/strategy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1323" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T04:22:47.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-19T06:13:43.283" Score="5" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;What other games can I play with the zombies from Zombies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like a waste to have so many of the little guys and not use them to maximum effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other rulesets or alternate games are people playing with their zombies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="982" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T11:51:24.187" Title="What other games can I play with the zombies from Zombies?" Tags="|zombies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3474" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:25:46.363" Score="11" ViewCount="3116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find the mini-expansions for Carcassonne? I've seen there are several such as &quot;The Cathars&quot; and &quot;Crop Circles&quot; but don't know where to get them, my local board game store doesn't have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1325" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T11:50:31.397" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T11:35:57.357" Title="Where can I get these Carcassone expansions?" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3471" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:36:41.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; you do with a giant pile of zombies?  If you do the table-top RPG thing regularly, the zombies make great generic bad guys.  Some friends of mine created a variant of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2025/frag&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frag&lt;/a&gt; called Frag Zombies that used plenty of the zombie figures during the game.  Pretty much any board game that uses miniatures is a potential use case for the zombies.  Imagine playing a zombie in Monopoly.  You could build a Zombie army in Risk.  How about using the glow-in-the-dark zombies in a game of Last Night on Earth?  The possibilities are endless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T11:51:24.187" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T11:51:24.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:45:39.677" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, the expansions you have listed are official.  Depending on which expansion you're trying to find (and which print run) may be a little challenging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Cathars &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13300/carcassonne-die-katharer&quot;&gt;(BGG)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; (German: Die Katharer) was originally released in the German magazine &quot;Spielbox&quot;, and then again in the set &quot;Der Carcassonne Almanach&quot;.  It was re-released in the US as part of the &quot;Cult, Siege and Creativity&quot; set (although it was renamed to the &quot;Siege&quot; in the set, explaining why you may have had a hard time finding it, and apparently the artwork was altered for the US release as well).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starting in 2010, the Crop Circles &lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/67055/carcassonne-die-kornkreise&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; (German: Die Kornkreise) can be found in German versions of the base game.  I'm guessing it will be released in an anthology set (like &quot;Cult, Siege and Creativity&quot;) at some point, but that's speculation on my part.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T11:45:39.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2011-05-19T11:49:57.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rio Grande Games&lt;/a&gt; is supposedly going to start carrying the Crop Circles expansion sometime this year, but it doesn't appear to be there yet.  The Cathars is available from them as part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=280&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cult, Siege, and Creativity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T11:49:57.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:07:02.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also this list over at BGG of computer versions of boardgames with a built in AI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/6483/computer-versions-of-board-games&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/6483/computer-versions-of-board-games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T15:09:51.220" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T15:09:51.220" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-19T16:07:02.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3508" CreationDate="2011-05-19T16:12:19.603" Score="2" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just grabbed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VASSAL&lt;/a&gt; to play AoS with my brother in Korea.  However the only boards they support at the moment all seem to have non-standard rules.  Paris is multi-colors.  There are these white lines that go over water.  I am generally confused :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a good resource for the Age of Steam expansion board rules.  I have found a few of the rules on BBG but normally people talking about the rules and not a direct link to a rule book.  Maybe they are there and I just can't find them. :-\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS if anyone has a source for more AoS maps for VASSAL, that would be great too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T21:50:25.477" Title="Age of Steam Expansion Board Rules" Tags="|age-of-steam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3478" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-19T17:35:18.417" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T17:35:18.417" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T17:35:18.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3479" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-19T17:35:18.417" Score="0" Body="Deck building includes discussion of games where you build decks and strategies and methods to build decks.  Generally a tag for another game should be included with this tag." OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T22:25:38.057" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T22:25:38.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3480" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-05-19T17:36:53.330" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-05-19T17:36:53.330" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T17:36:53.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3481" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-05-19T17:36:53.330" Score="0" Body="The discussion of tournaments, tournament formats, tournament rules, and tournament schedules " OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T22:25:05.623" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T22:25:05.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="753" CreationDate="2011-05-19T18:13:41.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there is luck in the game, it is possible to minimize it.  I find that not building if you don't have a good choice is sometimes good.  If everyone else builds and has no cards left, you can usually try for another card and build quickly before they can do their own build.  Usually someone who always builds no matter what is stuck with too many low point buildings.  I've often won the game with only 10 or 11 cards, so you can let yourself get behind by 1 or 2 and still be okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with 4 players, you know 4 out of 5 phases will be chosen, so you don't have to worry if a phase is skipped as much.  This means &lt;code&gt;Produce&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Trade&lt;/code&gt; cards are a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On average, the winning score in the games I play is above 32.  A score of 40 happens every 4 games or so, and I think we've had a high of 48.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to remove as much luck as possible and if playing with only the original set, I would suggest the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When building, allow one to build any building they wish, regardless if it is in the hand or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If built on the same turn, you may exceed the card limits for specific buildings.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 people want to play &lt;code&gt;Guild Hall&lt;/code&gt; at the same time, they all get to.  After that, it can't be played.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;code&gt;Well&lt;/code&gt;s have been played.  A 3rd player wants to play it, so the 4th player must either play it now or not at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes the luck of the draw out of the game and focuses your play on a well designed schedule of building.  You have to balance high point buildings with buildings that get you cards in your hand.  I find that focusing on getting cards for the first 6 builds and then switching to high point buildings after that works best (even in the regular game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also have to tailor your strategy to how you think your opponents will select their phases.  If they have the &lt;code&gt;Aqueduct&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Market Stand&lt;/code&gt;, they may choose &lt;code&gt;Produce&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Trade&lt;/code&gt; more often.  If they have the &lt;code&gt;Prefector&lt;/code&gt;, they may choose &lt;code&gt;Consular&lt;/code&gt; more often.  You can attempt to piggy-back your buildings on what they might choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the best way to accomplish this variant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Organize all cards so that you have 2 of each face up, left out of the draw pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use 3 or 4 of the production buildings, depending on number of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With more than 2 players, when the face up stack runs out, attempt to replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favor production buildings when burying cards in the &lt;code&gt;Chapel&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played this variant with 2 players a few times and it is quite fun.  You really get a sense of which card combinations work best together.  This helps when playing normal because you can spot good combinations more often if you've tried them.  The average score with this variant is over 40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T18:13:41.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-19T18:22:57.503" Score="8" ViewCount="1514" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;San Juan&lt;/strong&gt;, is the Crane card useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found it useful at all.  My conclusions about it are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pros&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allows you to build a high cost building for less cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose abilities of over-built building&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose points of over-built building&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose pace with others, slower to reach 12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is the Crane card ever a useful build?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T04:40:04.707" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T22:11:51.490" Title="When should I build the Crane card?" Tags="|san-juan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3428" CreationDate="2011-05-19T18:41:57.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a variant where you are allowed to go out if in your foot by laying down 4 or more black 3's without a discard.  This counts as 400 extra points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't be able to use them while in your hand, so you'd still have to discard them to get to your foot first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our games, typically the first person to reach the foot wants to pick up the pile as soon as possible and usually has a bunch of black 3's.  We play simple requirements where you can pick up the whole pile if you can use the top card anywhere, which is usually always.  If the partnership makes the book requirements quickly, before this player has discarded them all, then it's an extra bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T18:41:57.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-05-19T19:04:27.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could make the start a little more even for everyone, where they know they are going to get some resources at the start.  If you have extra markers lying around, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get enough markers for 1 or 2 rounds of play depending on the number of players.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favor 3, 4, 5, 9, 10 and 11 over 2, 6, 8 and 12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tailor for the map setup, ensure 1 of each resource type will be produced by the set of numbers chosen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 players (2 rounds): 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 players (2 rounds): 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 players (2 round): 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 players (1 round): 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11 (throw last one away)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 players (1 round): 3, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle and place in a stack (or a line) face down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of rolling dice, players draw the next marker, until the stack is exhausted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Cities &amp;amp; Knights, you can opt not to include the event die until the stack is gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone can be ensured a card at some time in the beginning if they build next to a number in the stack.  I consider the selection of numbers as part of the board setup phase, so do this before the initial starting points are selected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method still has randomness, although the expected payouts of the numbers start out even and move toward normal as the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will naturally give you the friendly robber variant, as there is no 7 marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastActivityDate="2011-05-19T19:04:27.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3487" CreationDate="2011-05-20T01:19:05.900" Score="12" ViewCount="8221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing a lot of Go recently at lunch but we are playing on a 13x13 board instead of a 19x19.  I can't seem to ever win!  I am beginning to think that my opening is leaving me in a bad position.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally start by playing 2 of the 4,4's (my opponent mirrors) then I do a lower approach on one of his corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based off the same way I would start on a larger 19x19 board.  Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T15:44:36.653" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T21:40:47.830" Title="What is a good opening for Go on a 13x13 board?" Tags="|go|13x13|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-05-20T04:19:11.030" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard opening is often based on where you would put handicap stones.&#xA;4-4 is what you play and it's correct, but people more and more agree that 3-3 is better on smaller boards since it secures the corner and since you're on 13X13; it's not too small of a move like on 19X19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the fuseki you can try to use asymmetric stones 4-3 and 3-3 or 4-3 3-4 like black or white below:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/20dsB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White also can play safety with two 3-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe you don't lose because of the opening? 13X13 is a different game, the center is worth more points than on 19X19 (worth 2 corners + 1 side) and there is less middle game and more life&amp;amp;death + endgame (maybe this is where you fail?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, you shouldn't mindlessly launch an attack. Try to secure 2 corners and develop towards the middle while trying to reduce the opponent's territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 13X13 the number of groups you can keep alive is smaller. On 19X19 you should make a maximum of 5 or 6 groups when on 13X13 I would make a maximum of 2, like on 9X9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try a variant of the Chinese fuseki for 13X13:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rVJvO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, I think you fail at appreciating what move is urgent since the board is smaller. Having your game reviewed would help you a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditorDisplayName="user545" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T21:40:47.830" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T21:40:47.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-05-20T06:05:52.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;13x13 is a bit of a faster game than 19x19, but the same general principles for fuseki apply. (This is the main difference between 13x13 and 9x9, where the board is small enough to preclude a real opening)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4-4 is a center-facing move, emphasizing influence over strength. It leaves you open to losing the corner with an opponants 3-3 and the resulting joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3-3 is a corner-facing move, emphasizing reliable corner territory over influence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is the side-facing 3-4 move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening Theory Made Easy by Otake Hideo provides reasonably good coverage of the logic behind these different opening options. At a more fundamental level, the Janice Kim introductory series does a good job of introducing the motivations for different opening moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1330" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T06:05:52.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3492" CreationDate="2011-05-20T06:10:55.143" Score="10" ViewCount="860" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this card game I like to play whenever I have 5+ people around and the group includes some 'not so serious' gamers.  The problem is I have sort of forgotten the real rules over the years and I feel like I forget a few every time I teach new people to play.  Here is the basic idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal our all the deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whoever goes first plays either a single card, a pair, triple, or 4 of a kind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player to their left then must play the same thing but with a higher number (if a pair of 4s was played the next person has to play a pair of 5's or higher).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2s are considered the highest card, playing one two at any time will 'win' the trick and let you lead a new card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first person out is the... president? Some title. At the start of the next round the last person out must give the president their 2 best cards, and the president then returns 2 cards of his choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soooo what game am I playing?  Are there real rules for it I can brush up on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T23:37:00.530" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T13:25:23.487" Title="Name and official (?) rules for this cards game I half remembered" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3500" CreationDate="2011-05-20T07:40:40.893" Score="9" ViewCount="984" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when the table is large enough, or people don't want to reach too far, a single draw pile is split into multiple draw piles.  This has always bothered me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it bother anyone else?  Are there any statistical reasons to not split the draw pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastEditorUserId="1327" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T22:32:52.023" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T08:49:22.470" Title="2 draw piles for convenience?" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-05-20T07:52:16.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daifugo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Daifugō&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your playing with the &quot;Deuce Means Clear&quot; optional rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T07:52:16.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3491" CreationDate="2011-05-20T07:57:04.373" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards are randomized through shuffling not through picking the draw pile. Statistically you should have the exactly same chances of drawing any particular card from either pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T07:57:04.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:29:33.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Two&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Big Two&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like Big Two, to me. Then again, Daifugo and Big 2 are close relatives...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T08:29:33.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:38:55.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy them at various online stores. A look at the boardgamegeek.com entries for them will lead you quickly to some available retailers, as well as ebay sales of them. Further, BGG has a sales system which allows gamers to sell used supplements. Many other online sources are available, as well, and many of those advertise on BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a partial list with the BGG links...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2591/carcassonne-the-river&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The River&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/7707/carcassonne-king-scout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;King &amp;amp; Scout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/13300/carcassonne-die-katharer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Die Katharer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/12903/the-count-of-carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Count&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/18836/carcassonne-the-river-ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;River II&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/26615/carcassonne-the-mini-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mini Expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/35666/carcassonne-cult-siege-and-creativity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cult, Siege and Creativity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/59065/carcassonne-der-tunnel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Der Tunnel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T08:38:55.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:42:45.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attempting to pick a &quot;fun&quot; game is fairly subjective, but I think a good answer is a game that has fairly simple mechanics along with a depth of strategy.  Also, when trying to play against your kids, you can assume that you would always do better given the same amount of time to think and strategize.  Also, I would interpret &quot;fun&quot; as &quot;not having to dumb down your play too much to give your kid a chance to win.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The best types of games for kids and adults are ones where there is more than one differing role to play in the game.  The adult can pick the role that has to do more with moderating the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 games in this list fit that criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scotland Yard&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a Mr. X and everyone else.  The adult can play Mr. X while the kids work together to catch him.  It's possible to make sub-optimal moves fairly easily to give the kids a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mastermind&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person attempts to discover a code, the other creates it.  It makes sense for the adult to pick codes based on the child level of understanding to make it easier or harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These games allow for a child not to have to compare their skill directly against yours.  For instance &quot;solving&quot; a single mastermind code says nothing about who is better at solving.  Running away in Scotland Yard is a different skill set that can't be compared directly with catching Mr. X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Fixing Games&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game is such that everyone has the same goals, you can attempt to &quot;meta&quot; game somewhat.  For instance in Monopoly you could refuse to build improvements and attempt trades to even the others' chances.  Or in Risk you could purposely hole up in a single location and become a large army to beat as last challenge for the other players.  In this case, the &quot;fun&quot; is in attempting to keep a game balanced or just becoming a self enforced game mechanic the others have to overcome.  You're moving the game into an area where you have different goals than the kids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games of luck like Uno can be fun for them since you can't always beat them even if you try.  (But then there is really nothing redeeming in making people play a game with out real decisions where you can't improve over time.  Nobody learns anything.  Unless you really just need to waste time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T08:42:45.363" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-05-20T08:42:45.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-05-20T08:56:03.293" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4-4 spot in the corner is a well balanced move on the 19x19 board. It has some influence on the corner and gives you strength in the center. I don't like it as much on the 13x13 board because the center is small and strength facing outwards often turns into over concentration. The main use of a strong group is to attack weaker groups elsewhere on the board - it can of course help to do this on the smaller board as well, but it is usually not worth as much as on the bigger board. Therefore I feel like the 4-4 is too center oriented, I prefer to open with a more territory oriented move that goes for immediate profit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My choices for opening on 13x13 are 3-3, 3-4 and 3-5. If you want some crazy fighting you can start with your first move in the center but have to know what you are doing with such a move. You should also choose more territory oriented josekis than you would in 19x19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a former 3dan I am by far no pro, so please take my advice with a grain of salt. 4-4 is not an unplayable opening in 13-13, but I find it harder to utilize than the other moves I suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T08:56:03.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-05-20T11:45:53.117" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are playing asshole, a classic drinking game. Rules vary, but here's a pretty standard set: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.webtender.com/handbook/games/asshole.game&quot;&gt;http://www.webtender.com/handbook/games/asshole.game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1334" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T11:45:53.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-05-20T16:37:58.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to upgrade this card game to something slightly more &quot;shiny&quot;... I can recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/340/franks-zoo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frank's Zoo&lt;/a&gt; which uses these basic rules but has cute animals and some interesting (and varyingly optional) rules twists.  At heart it's still Asshole :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T16:37:58.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3491" CreationDate="2011-05-20T17:26:45.787" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically, there's nothing wrong with splitting the draw pile. Splitting a randomized deck into multiple decks, won't affect the randomization. However, you need to carefully consider how you interact with the draw pile during the course of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do cards ever get put back on top of,&#xA;into, or under the draw pile? If so,&#xA;having multiple draw piles would&#xA;affect the game. For example, if&#xA;players can put a card on top of the&#xA;draw pile, can I choose to draw from&#xA;either pile? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens when the&#xA;draw pile runs out? If the normal&#xA;rule is to shuffle the discard pile&#xA;to create a new draw pile, you&#xA;probably need to wait until all draw&#xA;piles run out before doing so.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If    you have multiple draw piles,&#xA;will    you also have multiple&#xA;discard piles?    If so, you need to&#xA;consider how you    interact with the&#xA;discard pile, also.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T17:26:45.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3491" CreationDate="2011-05-20T19:52:18.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We do that with some games (including tiles in Carcassonne), but you have to allow people to pull from either pile they want, and don't reshuffle until both piles have been depleted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-22T17:00:43.167" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T17:00:43.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2598" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:01:47.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like the 4-player is tighter than the 3-player, the 6-player is tighter than the 5-player.  The 'special build' really slows things down, but is pretty important to keep your hand culled to stay under 8 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:01:47.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3490" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:08:09.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few names for this game: Asshole is the one I've heard most often. President or Janitor are other names I've heard when Authority Figures are around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast releases a version of this game under two names - the old one is The Great Dalmuti, and the new one is Dilbert-themed and called Corporate Shuffle. (I've never played Great Dalmuti). These ones vary in two respects - first, you play down rather than up (so you need to play 4s to beat 5s), and the number of copies in the deck is equal to the card value. (Only one 1, two 2, down to 10 tens). This adds a touch of balance, since you can overwhelm the better cards through sheer numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:08:09.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3491" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:26:50.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the table is inconveniently large and we are playing a game with a thick pack of cards, we sometimes spread the draw pile out into a large fan. That way, everyone can reach conveniently and anyone who suspects they may be disadvantaged can draw from any part of the pack. Myself, I can't see it makes any difference, but those who have some doubts can pick from anywhere and therefore have no grounds for suspicion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:26:50.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:35:27.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty useless, yes.  I don't think I've ever seen someone build it and win and I don't think I've ever built it.  Just as an experiment, I tried building it a couple times in the Android implementation of San Juan (&lt;a href=&quot;https://market.android.com/details?id=com.kevinquan.condado&amp;amp;feature=search_result&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Condado&lt;/a&gt;) and lost both games.  It's somewhat rare for me to lose to that implementation, so yes, useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:35:27.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:38:04.450" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add a little more drama, here is the rule clarification for the official NACC (North American Catan Championship) rules, that are used for the National Tournaments to feed the World Championship:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.7 A player has won if he or she has 10 or more victory points (although&#xA;  only 10 will be counted for the&#xA;  ranking) and it is the player’s turn.&#xA;  If a player does not notice that he or&#xA;  she has 10 points, the player must&#xA;  wait until the next turn before&#xA;  winning the game (assuming no earlier&#xA;  player wins, and the player still has&#xA;  10 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:38:04.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-05-20T20:42:42.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it in tournaments in a few ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give a third round of placing an additional road (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbkex/setpge.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WBC&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give an extra settlement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give a city instead of one of the settlements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T20:42:42.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3477" CreationDate="2011-05-20T21:36:27.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the Age of Steam map rules I have seen are only the differences between the base AoS rules and the map's rules and, as I mention below, sometimes they are not complete without knowledge of the features of other expansion maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know of a unified Age of Steam map rules resource, although depending on the designer the rules may be on BGG or on the designer's web site.  At one point I created a fairly comprehensive and up to date list of Age of Steam maps which includes designers, that might be a good place to start.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArK4vAoucRR2cHpsb09IZG9Na3FzbE1zeFhqaXlyZkE&amp;amp;hl=en_US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArK4vAoucRR2cHpsb09IZG9Na3FzbE1zeFhqaXlyZkE&amp;amp;hl=en_US&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is fairly well documented that anything that John Bohrer retains the copyright to (including the base game rules) will not be made available online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paris being multicolored is actually the easiest rule to manage on the France map, it just behaves like all of the colors present.  The other rules, like engineer being required to build over mountains and the non-existence of bankruptcy are less obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White lines over water almost always indicate a sea route or ferry that can be built as a single track tile build at a fixed cost (which can vary by map).  If the line is dotted, it usually means that one or both of the ends of the line are towns that must be urbanized before the link can be purchased.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major challenges of AoS map rules is that they all assume a certain amount of familiarity with the rules of AoS and, in many cases, with the rules of one or more expansions for AoS.  For example, the New Zealand print and play map for AoS has sea links with town terminals but it does not spell out when they are allowed to be built.  I believe this is due to some sloppy thinking on the part of the designers, as they assume an accretion of knowledge about AoS that may or may not exist for a given gamer or group.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastEditorUserId="770" LastEditDate="2011-05-20T21:50:25.477" LastActivityDate="2011-05-20T21:50:25.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3512" CreationDate="2011-05-21T09:13:17.017" Score="5" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a two-players game, where each players construct a line.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The first player has to join the top and the bottom of the board whereas the second has to join the left and the right. The two lines cannot intersect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do this game has a name?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Where I could find other informations about it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PS:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;I’m currently writing an HTML5/Canvas implementation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eleves.ens.fr/home/brunerie/percolation.fr.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (only in French for now, and the “AI“ plays at random, the smart AI is not finished yet), so you can see more precisely what I’m talking about.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I’ve called it “Percolation” because this looks a little like percolation, but this is probably not the “official” name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1336" LastEditorUserId="9" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T21:44:42.857" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T20:21:44.820" Title="Game where you construct a line through the board blocking the other player?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2011-05-21T11:03:29.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/624/quoridor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quoridor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is similar but not identical - two to four players try to reach the opposite end of the board with their pawn. Each turn, instead of moving, they can choose to place a wooden wall piece as an obstacle to block the opponent's path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1167" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T11:03:29.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2824" CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:23:03.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the following entry at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ddadventuresystem.wikia.com/wiki/Tide_of_Iron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;D&amp;amp;D Adventure Systems Wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attack one adjacent Monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit, place that Monster (if it isn't destroyed) on a tile within 1 tile of you, and you can move to any square on your tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could use Tide of Iron to attack it (since its treated as a monster), but Klak's Artifact states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking Klak's Artifact will destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what happens when something is destroyed?  Page 10 of the rules, under &lt;strong&gt;Destroying Objects&lt;/strong&gt; (empahsis mine at the end):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Adventure might specify that an object needs to be destroyed to win a particular scenario. If the object has an Armor Class and Hit Points, your Hero can target it just like a Monster.  If your Hero has a power that attacks all Monsters on a specific&#xA;tile, it can also attack an object on that tile. Once you deal damage equal to its number of Hit Points, &lt;strong&gt;you destroy the object and remove its marker from the tile.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can attack Klak's Infernal Artifact with Tide of Iron, but then there's nothing to move afterwards, since attacking the Infernal Artifact destroys it, and destroyed objects are removed from the tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T12:23:03.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2011-05-21T12:37:31.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridg-It&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridg-It&lt;/a&gt; and it is a specific implementation of the &quot;Shannon switching game&quot;.  There's a very elegant win for the first player which is based on pairing the edges together.  I think it's in a book by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Martin_Gardner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Martin Gardner&lt;/a&gt;, but I can't seem to find it online.  There's another solution &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sites4all.co.uk/bridjit/theory.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but it's not as easy to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The solution is given in &lt;a href=&quot;https://bobson.ludost.net/copycrime/mgardner/gardner03.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;New Mathematical Diversions&lt;/a&gt; by Martin Gardner, and was found by Oliver Gross.  &quot;Make the first play as indicated by the black line at lower left in the diagram. Thereafter whenever your opponent's play  crosses the end of a  dotted line, play by crossing the other end of the same line.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tFSS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7tFSS.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2017-06-05T20:21:44.820" LastActivityDate="2017-06-05T20:21:44.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3509" CreationDate="2011-05-21T17:04:16.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/949/twixt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TwixT&lt;/a&gt; &quot;... was popular in the 60s and 70s as part of the 3M Bookshelf Series.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TwixT is a &quot;connection-type&quot; game, very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4112/hex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hex&lt;/a&gt; . Other related games are &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2759/havannah&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Havannah&lt;/a&gt;... &quot;Connection type&quot; means the object is to form a path connecting something to something else. This requires very different thinking from the standard battle-type game such as chess or checkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1338" LastActivityDate="2011-05-21T17:04:16.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-21T20:20:19.547" Score="40" ViewCount="28519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to estimate the probability of winning Risk battles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't need to be a perfect calculation, I just want to get a general idea of whether to attack or not. It needs to be easy to memorize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there is a trade off between accuracy and easy of use, so I'm hoping there is more than one method proposed. I would be using this to estimate after each die roll so I can stop attacking when my winning probability drops below some threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus: also estimating how many armies are left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1327" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-09-28T12:11:23.180" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T12:11:23.180" Title="Chances to win battles in Risk" Tags="|risk|probability|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2011-05-22T06:22:44.843" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kent.ac.uk/IMS/personal/odl/riskfaq.htm&quot;&gt;Risk FAQ&lt;/a&gt; the expected losses per attack for standard Risk rules is about 6 to 7.  This means the attacker is expected to lose 6 armies for every 7 defender armies destroyed.   Since we're talking about expected values, this represents the mean (average), which is most akin to a 50th percentile or 50% chance that that is what will happen.  (this is not techically correct in terms of statistics, but I'm trying to explain it in more layman's terms).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for 'chances to win a battle' this is very difficult to produce a rule of thumb for, since the numbers vary wildly depending on # of armies in play.  For example, an 'even match' of 100 to 100 is won with over 85% chance, but 10 to 10 is only about 50%-50%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be easier if you specified a particular odds at which you want to attack or not, then a simple matrix of attacker/defender army counts is possible to create (perhaps with an easy formula), but when you start with N attackers and M defenders the best 'answer', statistically, is a probablilty distribution function which isn't easy to calculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you want to attack at, at least 50% expected value (as above), use the 6 to 7 rule.  This will also tell you how many you are expected to have left, so, using this rule, if you have 20 armies (to attack with, so 21 in the country), and he has 21, the 6 to 7 rule would say that you're expected to lose 18, killing his 21 (6*3, 7*3), thus leaving 2 left over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T06:22:44.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3346" CreationDate="2011-05-22T13:13:01.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know a download site for this.  However, Fantasy Flight are &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; good about sending replacement components, so it may be worth just emailing their customer service and asking for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T13:13:01.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3518" CreationDate="2011-05-22T14:24:11.780" Score="12" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game (bearing off), which of the following moves are valid?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eZbnb.png&quot; alt=&quot;two posible moves&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1340" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T21:27:16.637" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T21:27:16.637" Title="Clarifying Bearing off" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3517" CreationDate="2011-05-22T15:20:09.000" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the second one is not valid.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different rule sets for Backgammon.  However, I'm unaware of any which would allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This quote is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Backgammon&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.  It is footnoted as coming from both &lt;em&gt;Backgammon for Winners&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Hoyle's Rules of Games&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A die may not be used to bear off checkers from a lower-numbered point unless there are no checkers on any higher points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T15:20:09.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2011-05-22T15:51:52.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the full calculation to discover whether you will win a sequence of battles is difficult to make, it is easy to calculate the chances of winning any particular combination of attacker and defender dice. I reproduce here the table of expected losses described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recreationalmath.com/risk/RiskPaper.doc&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                       Defender Dice&#xA;                       1           2&#xA;Attacker Dice&#xA;1                  0.58/0.42   0.75/0.25&#xA;2                  0.42/0.58   1.22/0.78&#xA;3                  0.34/0.66   0.92/1.08&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first number in each cell is attacker losses, the second defender losses. So, if you attack with 1 die against a 2 dice defence, you have a 3/4 chance of losing the battle, which in this case will cost you 1 army. Remember also that if each of you have 2 or more dice, then exactly 2 armies will be lost in the battle. This is why in 2 dice vs 2, the attacker will lose on average more than one army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could easily memorise this table, and use it to decide at each step of a battle whether to proceed or not. Or you could just remember the broad rule of thumb described in the paper:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When both attacker and defender have a large number of armies, the attacker&#xA;  will, on average, lose armies at a 15%&#xA;  slower rate than the defender.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Towards the end, when either the attacker or the defender must shake&#xA;  fewer dice, the advantage swings more&#xA;  strongly toward the player with the&#xA;  most armies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The details of the full calculation are explained in the paper. The author also provides an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recreationalmath.com/risk/&quot;&gt;online Javascript implementation of the calculations&lt;/a&gt; that you might find interesting to play around with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T15:51:52.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2011-05-22T15:57:02.493" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good paper by Jason Osborne can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www4.stat.ncsu.edu/~jaosborn/research/RISK.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. (It's a correction to an earlier paper by Tan.) He uses Markov chain calculations to get the exact probabilities. You'll especially want to look at Table 3 on page 6, which has these probabilities rounded to three decimals for up to 10 armies per side. I've reproduced it below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M1mBx.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For quicker visual scanning, here's a colorized version using conditional formatting in Excel and percentages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzoQB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FzoQB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to ease of use: just print it out and look up your odds after every roll!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="10112" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T19:57:22.893" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T19:57:22.893" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="617" CreationDate="2011-05-22T16:04:58.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first pull, barring extraordinary tile draws, should be Settler-&gt;Quarry.  I agree with Pat that Prospector is better than Craftsman for player 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A great strategy guide is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/13812/the-039best039-puerto-rico-strategy-startegy-amp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:04:58.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2202" CreationDate="2011-05-22T16:44:49.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got to play this once now, and found the Jeweler is an incredible building.  Combined with the Royal Gardens, I handily walked away with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:44:49.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2746" CreationDate="2011-05-22T16:52:24.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the first expansion works very well, with most buildings being useful except for maybe the forest house.  I always play with random choice on buildings, and found that it really keeps the game interesting to have things changed around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-22T16:52:24.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T05:53:20.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Rivals For Catan, the Library card says that:&#xA;&quot;When you build the Library, you may immediately choose a card from a draw stack.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that you look through a draw stack and select which card to take? Or do you take the top card from a draw stack of your choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1342" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:13:05.253" Title="Rivals For Catan – How do you draw a card when playing the Library" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3491" CreationDate="2011-05-23T08:49:22.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While splitting the deck is statistically irrelevant, as others have said, it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; affect those games in which you might have such options as &quot;check the first X cards in the deck and put them as they were&quot; (say, to simulate precognitions), &quot;check the first X cards and reorder them as you wish&quot; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="833" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T08:49:22.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3192" CreationDate="2011-05-23T11:53:08.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To flatten the hexes themselves, stack them and bind them tightly with rubber bands in all 3 directions across the six sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid the problem of the warped hexes entirely: get a sheet of clear acrylic that is big enough to cover the whole board and border.  You could cut it to fit, cut it to fit and in halves for portability, or leave it square/rectangular.  Place the sheet over the assembled board and play on the perfect resulting surface! It will flatten the hexes while you play, but I'd just keep a right-sized sheet with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastEditorUserId="1343" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T12:39:57.493" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T12:39:57.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2011-05-23T12:11:49.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use 2-1 ports if at all possible, provided of course that you will be getting the resource in abundance, and can do so without sacrificing the necessary probability and variety of resources.  Placing on an abundance of wheat or brick, especially in Cities and Knights (C&amp;amp;K), and then placing on the special harbor allows you to make up for a deficit in any resource or commodity.  This is especially useful if you are &quot;last&quot;, and you get to place your city and settlement at the same time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BEWARE: if you don't have a reasonable variety of resources with a reasonable probability, no amount of 2-1 can make up for all the 1-1 that other players get, when they are well placed to get a good mix of resources (and commodities in C&amp;amp;K).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastEditorUserId="1343" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T12:17:55.990" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T12:17:55.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T12:48:14.233" Score="14" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The border of the 4th edition Settlers of Catan is too small for the board hexes.  To be exact, each hexagonal tile is about 79 mm wide.  Five of them, end to end, form the longest stretch of land requiring 395 mm of width within the shore tiles. And now, the distance between the shore tiles? About 393 mm. Yup, 2 mm short.&quot;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tinysci.com/2010/07/04/the-settlers-of-catan-something-completely-different/&quot;&gt;http://www.tinysci.com/2010/07/04/the-settlers-of-catan-something-completely-different/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of custom boards out there because of this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an inexpensive commercially-available border that actually fits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastEditorUserId="1343" LastEditDate="2011-05-23T13:40:23.473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T20:15:21.473" Title="Can You Buy a Catan Border That Fits?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|board-game-adaptations|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-03-23T08:02:20.563" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3540" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:20:05.827" Score="3" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules for Zooloretto it states that you won't collect money for filling an enclosure through the &quot;exchange&quot; action. It also states that animals of opposite sex will not breed in the barn. If you exchange one type of animal enclosure with another type of animal from the barn (which happens to include the breeding-ready couple), would you receive the coin bonus? My interpretation is that the breeding happens after the exchange, so you would get the bonus, but this is not spelled out in the actual rules. Does anyone have a definite answer on how this situation is scored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side-note, the iOS version of this game would be no help in seeing how the computer scores the situation, as it incorrectly does not let you exchange animals out of the barn (the rules clearly state that you can). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T17:32:26.697" Title="Can a Zooloretto Enclosure Score Money if Filled Via Enclosure w/ Breeding?" Tags="|zooloretto|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-23T13:24:04.780" Score="5" ViewCount="3350" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the combined global game for Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Europe 1940 and Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Pacific 1940, how much money does the USA receive before and after it is engaged in a war? Many references I've seen list the USA economy at 52 IPCs, but is this the starting economy? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also read that the USA is supposed to receive a boost of 30 IPCs when they are at war. Are these 30 IPCs in addition to money potentially gained from fulfilling national objectives, or does it simply mean the player is now eligible to receive up to 30 from national objectives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-05-26T21:33:58.787" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T17:52:06.923" Title="How many IPCs does the USA receive in Axis &amp; Allies Global?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3553" CreationDate="2011-05-23T19:55:58.540" Score="6" ViewCount="3071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started playing Nine Men's Morris. I have tried playing with both the computer and on online multiplayer settings and have been doing abysmally. I tried finding some good resource on the net that could give me some in depth study of useful strategies for this board game but I found very basic guides that were basically just a rehash of the rules. Could somebody help me in my dilemma, I want to start winning at least a few of the games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="649" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T21:46:56.463" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T04:52:58.013" Title="Resources for Nine Men's Morris" Tags="|nine-mens-morris|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-05-23T21:06:21.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With respect to basic strategy, I'm assuming that you've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alanemrich.com/SGI/Week_01/SGI_Nine_Mens_Strategy.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, which seems to have scraped the text from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smartboxdesign.com/ninemmstrategies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; (or vice versa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early '90s, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ics.uci.edu/%7Eeppstein/cgt/morris.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at least one person&lt;/a&gt; believed that the strategy you are seeking was not possible to describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is an optimal opening strategy (for humans)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must admit that I have not examined the opening moves for any easily describable patterns. However, the examination of mid- and endgame databases has repeatedly shown optimal play to be beyond human comprehension. Therefore, I very much doubt that any such&#xA;simple-to-describe strategy exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not found anything to contradict him, so unless someone else has more recent experience to share, you may be out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-05-23T21:06:21.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3524" CreationDate="2011-05-24T01:13:05.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that &quot;choose a card&quot; indicates you may &lt;strong&gt;look through a stack&lt;/strong&gt;; otherwise, they would have been more specific and said to take a card from the top, or take a card at random, or something like that.  Admittedly, they could have been a little clearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/655866/building-the-library&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BoardGameGeek link&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/servicenews/277-prof-easys-interactive-online-tutorial-for-the-rivals-for-catan-now-available.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Professor Easy's Interactive Online Tutorial&lt;/a&gt; has an example where one of the players is shown using the library to look through a stack.  I must have clicked 100 &quot;Next&quot; links and didn't see that, but I spaced out near the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T01:13:05.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:08:14.953" Score="3" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1334/pre-drawing-cards-or-tiles&quot;&gt;Pre-drawing cards or tiles&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often play Carcassonne in a lunchtime setting where we are looking to condense playtime as much as possible.  We recently have started allowing players to draw their next tile at the end of their turn giving them more time to plan their next move.  The rule has been working pretty well so far but people are nervous that one of us is going to start exploiting it.  Does anyone see any problems with this rule change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T17:50:23.953" Title="Draw at the end of turn in Carcassonne" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-05-24T22:28:26.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2011-05-24T16:19:36.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done this in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule I put in, is that anyone who looks at their tile in advance of their turn cannot speak about the game.  You don't want that person trying to influence the play of other folks tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a person has looked at the tile, they have advance knowledge and it would unfair to allow them to exploit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T16:19:36.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1334" CreationDate="2011-05-24T17:13:47.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 problems I see with it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In standard Carcassonne play, you have choice of stack. this reduces the choices ever so slightly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not also limit kibitzing, you are allowing negotiation to improve playability of your next play as well as their current. It's a subtle but powerful change with a strong personality. One should also note that kibitzing is in fact part of the game by the rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1293" LastEditDate="2011-05-24T17:50:23.953" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T17:50:23.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3532" CreationDate="2011-05-24T17:32:26.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a good question: the rules state that pairs united by an exchange DO breed; and that you DO NOT collect money for filling an enclosure through an exchange action.  It really comes down to whether exchanging-then-breeding counts as &quot;filling an enclosure through an exchange action&quot;, or whether the breeding is really subsequent to and distinct from the exchange action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut reaction was that, sure, it's a bit ambiguous, but why not give the benefit of the doubt, don't be cheap, dish out some money.  Fortunately, I managed to find a passage in the rules that proves my gut is an idiot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exception: NO bonus is awarded when&#xA;  all enclosure spaces are filled as a&#xA;  result of an exchange. &lt;strong&gt;There is also&#xA;  NO bonus awarded if an offspring&#xA;  produced by the exchange fills the&#xA;  last space.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you have it!  (Incidentally, I found a useful combined rules pdf online here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/48p5z9a045/Zooloretto.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/48p5z9a045/Zooloretto.pdf&lt;/a&gt;?)  You're welcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T17:32:26.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2011-05-24T19:56:35.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Woah, I was totally shocked at the one person who responded about Science, Warfare and Card Drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, in response to this: &quot;Consequently, if you're playing in a group of unequally skilled card drafters, you should watch what everyone is laying out, make a point of pointing out players who are doing especially well (especially in green), and (however uncouth it may be) offer advice on what not to pass that player&quot;, I am totally appalled.  There is certainly nothing in the rules that state you can't say anything, but trying to tell other people how to play the game not only makes you seem controlling but also lessens the fun of the game.  Save the comments for after the game is complete, and then suggest what things others might have done differently (winning the game might help your cause here).  For all you know, you are telling them to burn a card so their opponent doesn't get it, but in reality there is a card there that would net them 10 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, going all military is worth more than 18 points.  Depending on how many people are playing, it could be worth up to 24.  By getting 18 points, you have also reduced two opponents by 3 points each.  Put this in perspective that the majority of the games I have played (with 5 or 6 people who thrive on boardgames and boardgame strategy) winning individuals typically finished with 60 points, this is a quick and easy way to 1/3 of the total points needed.  True that you do not know how much you will need to invest into military (which is why I try to wait as much as I can into round 1 to decide), but in a normal game, 4 military cards is enough, which is one of the lowest card-to-victory point ratios in the game.  With the exception of some Guilds and Yellow Cards that give victory points for opponents resources, Military is up there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Science, I don't see anyway to not make your strategy obvious.  You can get away with two rounds of going for science, but after that, everyone knows.  This does not mean that you will necessarily be halted in your strategy, but that coming across those cards then becomes increasingly more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do agree for the most part that there isn't any one particular strategy that wins the game.  This isn't an overwhelmingly strong strategic game, but it has some elements of making the best decision for yourself at every opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played this game dozens of times at this point, and can honestly say that there are only a few things I have learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, do not bother with cards that can get resources from your opponents for 1 less coin (unless you truly have no other better option).  This isn't worth it, as you should be avoiding borrowing resources as much as possible.  Choose a resource card over these cards and pay the 2 coins if necessary to get the resource you need in the future.  You'll spend less coins this way and have more resources for future cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, try to diversify your resources.  This will give you more flexibility in your card choices as well as give you extra income from the opponents who need to borrow the resource.  I'm particularly careful to take a resource card that I see neither of my neighboring opponents have (or their neighbors as well!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In connection with the diversifying your resources, it is also worth the 1 coin to get the resource card with either two types or two of the same resource on it.  Don't waste two actions by getting a free brick and free wood card, when you can spend 1 action and 1 coin for a card that does both.  Actions are the most valuable thing you have (you typically only get 18 actions per game, excluding some special circumstances), and given the option, I would pay far more than 1 coin for additional actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, do not underestimate the ability to build free cards.  This is where science can be extremely helpful.  For your first few games, just start to become familiar with them.  After you have played enough, pay special attention to them.  I can't tell you how many times I could have swept the game if only I had built a Library in the second round.  Do not confuse this strategy with only taking cards you can get for free, as you should be taking whatever cards will maximize your score, even if they cost money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are my thoughts anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1346" LastActivityDate="2011-05-24T19:56:35.100" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2011-05-25T02:14:04.960" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the detailed probability calculations and Markov analysis posted by Eric P. and ire_and_curses can be distilled into two simple heuristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Large battles favor the attacker but only very slightly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For small battles, attack if you have more armies, stop if you don't.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The rationale for these guidelines is outlined below.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definition: a &lt;code&gt;large battle&lt;/code&gt; is a battle of 3 or more attackers vs 2 or more defenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For large battles the army count has nothing to do with the outcome of any single battle, which means you only need to remember a single number: the net attrition rate, defined as the expected value of the difference between defender and attacker losses. This rate can be calculated from data in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www4.stat.ncsu.edu/%7Ejaosborn/research/RISK.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Table 2 of the Jason Osborne&lt;/a&gt; paper in Eric P.'s answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;expected value of the defenders lost is 1.08&lt;/strong&gt;. (This is the number of defenders lost by events &lt;code&gt;π_32x&lt;/code&gt; weighted by their probability.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;expected value of the attackers lost is 0.922&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This means the &lt;strong&gt;net attrition rate is 0.158&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. over 10 rounds of combat, the defender will lose 1.58 more armies--on average). Over 20 rounds 3.16.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leading us to our first heuristic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Large battles favor the attacker but only very slightly.&lt;/strong&gt; As the attacker, it takes on average 20 rounds to make up a three army deficit. Whether you should attack in any given situation is a strategic not a tactical decision, but tactically the attacking advantage is on average very slight. Remember as well that past events have nothing to do with future rolls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For small battles, the full probability matrix is supplied above, but our second rule distills this knowledge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For small battles, attack if you have more armies, stop if you don't.&lt;/strong&gt; When outnumbered your probability of winning is no more than 0.417 and probably less. Otherwise your probability of winning is at least 0.656 but as high as 0.916.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-09-28T11:40:49.807" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T11:40:49.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-25T14:51:29.470" Score="9" ViewCount="3024" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, what's the sequence of events in using this item? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I would go insane/unconscious before using the flute, does that mean it would be useless to use the flute as I would be unable to actually make the combat check?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the difficulty of the combat check? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By area, does the the card mean all monsters currently in the exact same street area or location as you, or all monsters in the same street area and 2-3 corresponding locations?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Flute_of_the_Outer_Gods&quot;&gt;according to the AH wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You must pass a Horror Check before using the Flute. If there are more than one monster in your area, you only need to pass one Horror Check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difficulty of the horror check? Is it as if you were making a normal horror check before engaging in combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, how can I know when to buy/use the Flute? It's extremely expensive in terms of both cash and sanity/stamina. It seems as if most of the time you'd be better off saving the money for an actual weapon that you can use more than once, and with the massive sanity/stamina cost it seems like it would only be worth using on the absolute strongest of monsters, like the Hounds of Tindalos or God of the Bloody Tongue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I underestimating the power of this item? How do you tell if it's a good idea to buy it if it comes up in your 3 unique items? How can I tell if a situation warrants the tremendous cost of its use, especially since the investigator will be so weakened afterwards they will likely have to rush to both the hospital AND the insane asylum before being able to continue fighting without fear of loosing half their items, which would've been the penalty of failure against the monster you were fighting anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-05-25T15:17:22.723" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T12:49:28.190" Title="How does Flute of the Outer Gods work in Arkham Horror and when should I use/buy it?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="230" CreationDate="2011-05-25T16:56:29.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 3-for-1 port is more generically useful, since you can trade down any excess cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 2-for-1 is situational. If you can focus your production on that resource AND get to the port, you can gain a lot of advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question, I'd put it this way: If you're heavy in a specific resource, and can get to the 2-for-1 without too much trouble, go for it. Otherwise, save the roads and take the 3-for-1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T16:56:29.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:30:31.553" Score="19" ViewCount="220596" Body="&lt;p&gt;An example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  O&#xA; O?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a triple letter tile to the right of the bottom O, indicated with a &lt;em&gt;?&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I place an &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; on it, making the words OX (vertical) and OX (horizontal), do I score 50 points (scoring the tile twice) or 34 (scoring it once)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1347" LastEditorUserId="7613" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T01:21:59.823" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T03:07:49.940" Title="Are tile bonuses counted twice if 2 new words are formed?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3545" CreationDate="2011-05-25T19:54:52.753" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you score it twice as long as the double/triple letter/word tile was covered up by your current play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/scrabble/en_US/scoringRules.cfm&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When two or more words are formed in the same play, each is scored. The common letter is counted (with full premium value, if any) for each word. (See Turns 3, 4 and 5 in the Scoring Examples &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-25T19:54:52.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3548" CreationDate="2011-05-26T03:20:43.570" Score="4" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently moved away from most of my gaming friends and taken to playing by email.  We have played a few rounds of Age of Steam but the bidding at the start of each turn takes &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; emails just to get through.  With a time zone difference it can mean a week to do one round of bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a similar mechanic that can work like bidding?  Or a way to do bidding through email that would be faster than each player saying their bid one at a time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T08:06:22.163" Title="Whats a good way to handle multiple players bidding when playing by email?" Tags="|house-rules|age-of-steam|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3547" CreationDate="2011-05-26T08:06:22.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in a normal (at the board) game, you will find that the person who starts the bidding has the advantage, because the following players need to beat, rather than equal the first player's bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, one option you have (and the one I would use) is a blind auction, where if there is a tie, then the order of bidding is the person who wins. Obviously, the way you do a blind auction is difficult over email as you cannot prevent the other person or persons from seeing your bid, unless you do one of two things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a 'referee' for want of a better word, who collects the bids until all are received and email the results once collected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a player (possibly the final player in the bid order) act as the referee, who cannot bid themselves, but collects all blind bids.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would suggest looking for one of the online board game sites that allow you to play turn-by-turn. There are a few that do this (I believe there are already questions on this topic), but I am not sure if there is one for this game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T08:06:22.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3543" CreationDate="2011-05-26T12:49:28.190" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card specifies area because it could be either a location or a street. I'm pretty sure they already had the 'neighborhood' terminology worked out when the base set came out and they didn't use it here for a reason. The flute's use is basically 'Instead of rolling a combat check against a monster when you normally would, you can use the flute instead.' So you need to survive the monster's horror check before you can use the flute. If you don't survive the horror check, you don't make it to the combat phase, so you can't use the Flute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that as the flute kills everything in the location/stree that you use it in, you can enter combat with a weak monster(Cultist, horror check auto-success), use the Flute, and kill everything in that space, which happens to be a Gug/Dhole/Color/Servitor/Mask/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with a regular gate opening, the flute doesn't give as much bang as it could, as there's usually only 1-2 monsters in a location. But after a monster surge or two and there a location full of monsters that just happen to all move on the same symbol, the flute becomes a great way to take out a horde that would've dealt that damage to someone anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, the Flute is also useful if you just happen to not have the resources available to take out something with good odds, as you strictly only need enough sanity to survive failing the horror check to use it. You don't even need the 3 stamina 3 sanity to use it you know! As the Flute does damage and isn't a cost, you could use it at 1/1! You'd be devoured of course, but that's the cost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my gaming group, it's pretty rare that someone will choose to buy the Flute over something reusable when they go shopping, but if it happens to be gotten for free, no one complains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-05-26T12:49:28.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3555" CreationDate="2011-05-27T19:15:26.423" Score="10" ViewCount="1469" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/MontyPython/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monty Python Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; is a separate game, not an expansion pack, that doesn't &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; the original Fluxx deck to play. But &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; it be used with the original deck  - can it be used to supplement the original cards, or does it not work like that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This related question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2373/what-are-the-differences-between-the-fluxx-games&quot;&gt;What are the differences between the Fluxx games?&lt;/a&gt; didn't quite answer my question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1312" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T04:23:08.270" Title="Can Monty Python Fluxx be used with the regular Fluxx deck, or is it a separate game?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-03-01T16:04:42.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:27:20.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's some information available in German. The game's called &quot;Mühle&quot; (= mill) in German,&#xA;and there exists at least one book on this subject.&#xA;The book can be found online here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hubbie.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hubbie.de/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Click on &quot;Mühle&quot;, the book can be viewed in html or as an applet.&#xA;It's a beginner's book, but contains even some advanced strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to understand a lot of the strategies even without knowledge &#xA;of German, but with &quot;Google translate&quot;, or dict.leo.org you should be able to make&#xA;sense of most of the text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's even an organization which organizes (European) championchips, see&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.muehlespiel.eu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.muehlespiel.eu/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It might be possible to get information from there, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:27:20.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3552" CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:38:29.593" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly can just shuffle the decks together, try to play a game with them, and see what happens.  The core rules of Fluxx are always pretty much the same, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, everything I've heard from people who've tried something like this suggests that, for maximum enjoyment, you'll probably want to start removing cards that don't work well in the combined game; or adding your own homebrew cards that &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; work well in the new game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with Monty Python Fluxx, but I've played a bit of Zombie Fluxx - and it's pretty well optimised on its own.  I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; add my basic Fluxx game into the mix, but then the zombie theme would be much diluted.  It would be much harder to assemble a critical mass of zombie cards to achieve one of the zombie Goals - or indeed the non-zombie cards required for a base set goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the end Fluxx is a game that it's best not too take &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; seriously.  If all you're after is a nice long, random game with the possibility of unexpected interactions between cards from different sets, then I don't see why you wouldn't want to at least give a mega-game using cards from multiple expansions a try!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:38:29.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3296" CreationDate="2011-05-27T20:54:43.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know all the cards in a bridge problem (this is called &quot;Double Dummy&quot;), you can &#xA;use a computer program called DeepFinesse, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deepfinesse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.deepfinesse.com/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;to solve the problem. But it solves only problems where all 4 hands are known,&#xA;so it doesn't solve the question &quot;can you make 6 H against &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; distribution?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1358" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T20:54:43.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3552" CreationDate="2011-05-27T21:07:34.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can definitely use multiple Fluxx decks together, but it will slow the game down - different games use different Keepers, so it will take longer for players to get the right combinations together to meet Goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-05-27T21:07:34.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-05-28T13:36:40.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1234/once-upon-a-time&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Once upon a time&lt;/a&gt;, after a couple drinks too much, can be fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1363" LastActivityDate="2011-05-28T13:36:40.580" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3561" CreationDate="2011-05-29T04:13:28.267" Score="3" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am second in turn order, I select Urbanization.  Do I place the city at the start of my build track phase or before the first person who builds track?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T04:51:15.440" Title="When does Urbanization occur in Age of Steam" Tags="|age-of-steam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3560" CreationDate="2011-05-29T04:51:15.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You place the new city as your first action during your Build Track phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 2 of the rules &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Urbanization action:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Implemented during the Build Track phase.  This action allows this player to place one of the New City tiles on a Town &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; they build their track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from the Warfrog edition (2002).  It seems the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5747256#5747256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules haven't changed&lt;/a&gt; much at all despite the plethora of editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T04:51:15.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-29T06:56:03.127" Score="5" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing Agricola last night and I ran into an unusual situation. I had three pastures, each able to contain four animals. I also had the House Goat minor improvement, which means I was not allowed to store any animals in my house. I had a total of eight sheep, and no other animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the Sheep Farmer occupation, and wanted to use its ability twice to convert six sheep to two boar and two cattle.  My question is, do the conversions have to be sequential, or can they be synchronous? In the first case I cannot store both the boar and the cattle as I have five sheep after the first swap which take two of my pastures. In the latter case I end up with a breeding pair of each type of animal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T15:05:57.620" Title="Can sheep farmer perform multiple exchanges at once?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3591" CreationDate="2011-05-29T13:20:11.403" Score="6" ViewCount="7468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I play an activated ability of one of my creatures; for example, this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vnigs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent responds to this with an instant that takes control of this creature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6dYI7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Will the effect of the activated ability be countered? The stack now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vedalken Anatomist puts -1/-1 on target creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent gains control of Vedalken Anatomist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change of control will happen first. Does this mean that the -1/-1 counter will not be received by the target creature? If yes, then what happens to the mana spent (and the lands tapped) to pay the cost of using the ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1365" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-29T15:07:09.393" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T07:06:52.520" Title="MTG: Activated abilities and change of control on the stack." Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3562" CreationDate="2011-05-29T15:05:57.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card doesn't say you can do multiple conversions at the same time, so they have to be sequential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in other situations, it's established that you don't have to have room for animals if you're going to immediately use them for something else. For instance, if you receive animals from an action space, you can immediately afterwards cook them, without having to find room for them in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would argue that the Sheep Farmer works the same way. In this case, you can use it twice in succession, without having to take animal storage limits in account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll add a ruling to this effect to the next edition of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/file/info/34558&quot;&gt;Unofficial Agricola Compendium&lt;/a&gt;, which many players consider to be almost authoritative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1366" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T15:05:57.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-29T16:34:20.900" Score="13" ViewCount="3673" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few sites for training in chess tactics. For those having experience with using any of these, how did these affect your rating? Is there a strong correlation between e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://chess.emrald.net&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://chess.emrald.net&lt;/a&gt; rating and ELO? Has the use of these sites made a significant change to your ELO?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1181" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T16:57:46.417" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T08:49:47.783" Title="Did tactics training improve your chess significantly?" Tags="|chess|tactics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-04-10T18:55:31.793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-05-29T20:15:56.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/869/bongo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bongo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is my bar favourite. It requires quick and clear thinking, so possible alcohol effects can make it rather weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T20:15:56.457" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3568" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-29T20:29:07.927" Score="12" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan (the board game), in a game with four players, is it considered a good strategy to try to lock one (or two) other player(s) from a given resource in order to have an upper hand for later trading? I mean, placing your cities so that you prevent someone from accessing any ore, for example. (Ore is the easiest, because people tend to neglect it in the very beginning of the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never do it, but it happened on its own once or twice, and it is really great. You can get better bargains because people are desperate for it. So, is it a known strategy? Do you look for that kind of advantage when playing Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="47" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-05-30T00:39:49.017" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T10:54:08.493" Title="In Catan, should you try to exclude others players from one resource?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2011-05-29T21:18:38.897" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad strategy, if (1) you still have access to all resources, and (2) you have a group willing to trade. But it's not generally a &quot;good strategy.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a situation where one person had a lock on all the wood (random setup). The result? everyone else went for ports, and no one traded with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't really compel competent players to pay more than 3:1 for any resource, since a port allows 3:1, and they who get too greedy tend to lose out on everything else as no one will trade with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you have it on good numbers (5,6,8,9), and trade it to others at 2:1 and/or can get the 2:1 port for that resource, build your cities on it, and use it for just about everything, it's workable. A lot depends upon the group being played with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-05-29T21:18:38.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3563" CreationDate="2011-05-30T00:38:16.107" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, nothing is countered, and everything happens sequentially as you describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the creature tapped, mana spent, and land tapped, they were paid as a cost.  Regardless of how spells or abilities on the stack resolve, the costs paid remain paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the stack resolves exactly as you describe it; the opponent will gain control of your tapped Vedalken Anatomist, then the Vedalken Anatomist's ability resolves and you put the -1/-1 counter on the target you selected when you activated the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T00:38:16.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2011-05-30T00:44:31.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely one of the components you should look at when deciding on your strategy in the game at the start.  I evaluate the following components when placing (and deciding where to go later on):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number Diversity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resource Diversity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good Numbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Getting close to a monopoly on a resource (this question)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ports&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whether there's one resource that is going to be shortchanged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Order of Placement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T00:44:31.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-05-30T03:26:00.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As BlueRaja said, chesstempo is good, but you can train tactics @ FICS, chess.com, gameknot.com, chesscube.com...etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Famous quote &lt;em&gt;&quot;1 problem a day keeps the patzer away&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;Indeed when you start doing tactics regularly you immediately see results.&#xA;You tend to do a lot less blunders (which obviously takes you a rank up), remember some positions and tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also some tactics training that I will describe as an answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3571/good-chess-books-for-intermediate-players&quot;&gt;your other question.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditorDisplayName="user545" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T15:35:20.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-05-30T07:12:31.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heartily recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tichu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tichu&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; if your're exactly four players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tichu is a multi-genre card game; primarily a shedding game that includes elements of Bridge, Asshole (the card game), and Poker played between two teams of two players each. Teams work to accumulate points; the first team to reach a predetermined score (usually 1,000 points) is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1167" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T07:12:31.840" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2011-05-30T08:37:03.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the strategy part of the game is to maximize your ability to apply tactics - if you do that, you will score well.  Even the best tactician will lose if they fail to grasp the strategies for maximizing choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think ahead strategically about how you are going to be affording cards in later rounds.  There are various techniques that all work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of diverse browns, use yellow cards to get greys.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All three greys, few browns, use yellow cards to get most browns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small, diverse set of resources (say, a couple either/or cards) plus cash/yellows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;upgrades (best with wonder ability to occasionally play cards for free via your wonder.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mostly gold cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hoard resources of certain kinds (and build your wonder with copies of it) so you can get paid a lot of gold; use that gold to buy others.  (I haven't actually tried this one but have seen it work well.)  Best with a wonder that requires lots of one or two resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important for the strategy to be coherent.  For example, it's a bit better better to focus on brown or grey (or both) than to mix a bit of each, due to later cards that reward concentration, as well as the fact that it's easier to find complementary yellow cards when you are weak in one and strong in the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What&lt;/em&gt; you're going to buy with the resources is more tactical, and is generally based on what comes easily rather than overpaying for that perfect card.  You can win with a bit of this and a bit of that, or going whole hog in one thing.  You can mix in military or not.  You can go for 1, 2, or 3 sets of science cards.  You can build blue chains or just get expensive blues at the end with your lots of resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2011-05-30T08:37:03.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-30T08:48:21.230" Score="3" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend mentioned a possible easy tweak of the Saint Petersburg rules: just pay out the buildings once again at the end of the game (perhaps disallowing observatory/debtor's prison except for taking the 1 VP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has two possible advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could enable a viable blue-heavy strategy to compete with the as-many-aristocrats-kinds-as-possible strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trading card phase at the end would actually matter for blues as well as aristocrats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone shoot holes in the idea?  I'm curious for people to try this out and report how it goes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-04T05:29:10.210" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T11:54:27.163" Title="Would this potential Saint Petersburg house rule work?" Tags="|house-rules|saint-petersburg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2012-04-08T20:42:58.857" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2011-05-30T13:04:13.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crane can be very useful when you don't want to finish the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: the one who builds his/her 12th building &lt;strong&gt;isn't&lt;/strong&gt; the winner. This action only ends the game. If you have 11 houses and are not in a position of wining, it could be useful to build one more without finishing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, using a crane can help you building a big house in two steps, no need to have seven cards in the hand at one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interresting effect linked to the use of the crane is that you can use the builder's privilege twice on the same card. Let's say you want to build something that is worth 6. You are the builder. Build some building that's worth 3, pay it 2. Next turn, choose the builder, expand your 3-building to your 6-building, pay 2 instead of 3. The total cost of the building was 4 instead of 6. Add to that some additionnal cards that reduce the price, you can even have a &lt;strong&gt;free 6-cards&lt;/strong&gt;!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="1369" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T10:54:39.230" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T10:54:39.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-05-30T19:12:29.763" Score="9" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the new D+D game &lt;strong&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/strong&gt;, suppose that you use a daily power that places counters (like &lt;strong&gt;Blade Barrier&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Mirror Image&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Flaming Sphere&lt;/strong&gt;) and then get the power refreshed (through an item, for example) while the counters are still on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use the power again, and if so, what happens (given that you don't have enough counters left to place more)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1371" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:49:34.047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:49:34.047" Title="Are the counters limited in Wrath of Ashardalon?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3699" CreationDate="2011-05-31T02:28:46.360" Score="6" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/retribution-of-scyrah/solos/dawnguard-scyir&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dawnguard Scyir&lt;/a&gt; has the ability &lt;code&gt;Flank[Faction Warjack]&lt;/code&gt;. If a warjack was in melee with a given enemy model and the Scyir charged into combat with that model, would he get four dice on the damage roll? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same question would then apply to &lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpress.com/warmachine/gallery/cygnar/units/sword-knight-unit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sword Knights&lt;/a&gt;, which have the same &lt;code&gt;Flank&lt;/code&gt; ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1311" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T05:23:41.250" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T14:57:02.483" Title="Can Dawnguard Scyir get 4 damage dice on a charge?" Tags="|warmachine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3603" CreationDate="2011-05-31T07:58:43.493" Score="12" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in a group that regularly plays together. We love Agricola, but we tend to play the family version because we feel the minor improvements and occupations are a bit too unbalanced. Or sometimes one player gets great combinations and other players are left cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What options are there for distributing the minor improvements and occupations such that we can minimize that variation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T15:07:51.527" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T07:06:28.483" Title="House Rule for Minor Improvement/Occupation distribution?" Tags="|house-rules|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1032" CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:29:32.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some fixes that I propose for the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Move back fighters:&lt;/strong&gt; If Russia is allowed to attack on the first move, Germany is allowed to move back one fighter and one armor from the Ukraine to Eastern Europe, and one fighter back from Finland to Eastern Europe, and Japan one fighter back from Manchuria to Kwantung BEFORE the game starts. I don't mind letting the Russians attack (even in Manchuria) just don't want Axis fighters killed off in the process. (And my preferred strategy is to play a defensive Russia and not attack, because the Axis can now counterattack advantageously in either case, assuming average die rolls).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No factories in landlocked territories&lt;/strong&gt; (basically China, Sinkiang, and some Russian territories). In the real war, the &quot;industrialization&quot; of China was about the only thing the Allies failed at. It's hard enough to build factories on the coast without shipping materials inland. And in &quot;Sinkiang?&quot; You're talking about Tibet and the Taklamaken desert for crying out loud.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limit Heavy bomber increase to 50%&lt;/strong&gt;, like other techs. For conventional combat, attacker gets two dice, but hits only with 1-3 (six rolls instead of four). For heavy bombing, if the roll is 1-3, attacker gets to roll second die and add the two (range of outcomes is 2-9, for an average of 5.5.). Or if using only one die, attacker hits FOR SURE in conventional combat, and heavy bombing damage = die roll+2 (ranging from 3 to 8 for an average of 5.5).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bomber transport:&lt;/strong&gt; A carrier can carry one bomber in lieu of two fighters (like a transport can carry one armor in lieu of two infantry).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kamikaze rule:&lt;/strong&gt; Japan (and Japan only), can launch kamikaze air attacks where planes don't have enough range to return. (Japan did so in real life).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paratrooper unit&lt;/strong&gt; (per suggestion above). Has a 1-2 combat factor (like infanty) but costs 12 IPCs to build (like a fighter). Special movement feature; with a complement of its own planes, can move two spaces to a friendly or unoccupied enemy territory (e.g., over the North Sea to or from England or Germany) &quot;leapfrogging&quot; over intervening territory. If enemy territory is occupied, treat as &quot;amphibious&quot; landing. Is identifiable as a &quot;specially trained&quot; unit, not just a generic infantry on a bomber.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Economic victory for Axis:&lt;/strong&gt; As a practical matter, the Axis would have won World War II if they had ever accumulated one-half of the world's industrial capacity, unless the Allies had some offsetting technological advantage (such as the atomic bomb). In this game, that's only 74 IPCs (because the U.S. is &quot;hobbled,&quot; with a fraction of its real-life industrial capacity. The victory condition is 84 IPCs in the game and something like 99 IPCs in real life.) But 74 IPCs could represent a &quot;tipping point,&quot; especially in conjunction with either of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treacherous (minor) Allies.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.1 In World War II, the defection of minor German allies like Italy and&#xA;    Romania contributed to the Allied victory.  In Axis and Allies, if&#xA;    the Axis get 74 IPCs, minor U.S. Allies like Sinkiang, China,&#xA;    Brazil, Mexico, Panama and the West Indies defect, sensing an Axis&#xA;    victory. The resulting &lt;em&gt;coup d'etats&lt;/em&gt; puts one (pro-Axis) infantry&#xA;    unit in each country (as total of 11 IPCs), and U.S. land and air&#xA;    units on those territories are destroyed. (Japan gets the &quot;income&quot;&#xA;    from China and Sinkiang, Germany, from the Latin American&#xA;    territories).  If the Axis reach 74 without any of these&#xA;    territories, the switch of 11 IPCs brings their total to 85 (unless&#xA;    the U.S. can recapture, e.g., Mexico on its turn). If 4 of those 74&#xA;    IPCs are China and Sinkiang, the Axis still have 81 (until the U.S.&#xA;    starts reconquering the Western Hemisphere, a major distraction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.2 Set the &quot;bar&quot; initially at 74 (it never goes below that even if&#xA;the Axis have a tech advantage) but since the Allies have more&#xA;income for research, raise the bar by 5 IPCs for every DIFFERENT&#xA;additional technology that the Allies have over the Axis (multiple&#xA;holdings of the same technology don't count). Maximum of 30 IPCs&#xA;(Allies have all six technologies, the Axis, none). Example: the&#xA;Allies have developed three new technologies, the Axis two, net&#xA;Allied advantage of ONE technology. The bar for economic victory has&#xA;been raised from 74 to 79 (5 IPCs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="17573" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T09:03:02.093" LastActivityDate="2018-04-08T09:03:02.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2011-05-31T13:42:41.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only Allied advantage of Kwabang is that it derails the Pearl Harbor attack. The disadvantage is that it hands you India on a silver platter. (No factory there, and maybe not in Sinkiang either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This falls under the category of &quot;spoiling&quot; attacks. You're going to cry if that transport gets lucky and scores a hit (one chance out of six), but more likely, the Brits have overreached and opened up the game for you. Ultimately, it's a question of whose chances really get spoiled? All Axis players should be so lucky (five times out of six).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget Pearl Harbor, which is now Plan B. That WAS the means to the end, not an end of itself. India is the bigger prize by far. Although Germany would have been defeated, Japan might have gotten a negotiated peace if she had used the Pearl Harbor attack fleet to support an amphibious invasion of India, and ultimately of Persia instead (no &quot;day of infamy,&quot; hence &quot;live and let live&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T14:03:09.607" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T14:03:09.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2011-05-31T14:17:24.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;About the &quot;worst case&quot; for Japan is &quot;mutually assured destruction&quot; of the two Pacific fleets. That's actually not too bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That occurs if the U.S. brings its bomber and fighter from the East coast, and uses its west coast fighter, battleship and transport in a counterattack on the Hawaiian Islands sea zone. The Japanese are likely to lose in all, one battleship, one carrier, one sub, and two fighters. The U.S. stands to lose one battleship, one carrier, one sub, two or three fighters, and one transport (in total), leaving the bomber and perhaps one fighter. That leaves a stand-off in the Pacific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The U.S. may prefer this strategy if the Japanese player is better than the German player. But the U.S. loses at least a turn in the Atlantic by sending the bomber and fighters west.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don Rae had a brilliant plan to defuse this threat: Move only the batttleship and sub into the Hawaiian sea zone, and leave the carrier in the Wake Island Sea zone, out of range of U.S. aircraft, while allowing two fighters to attack, and retreat to the carrier. You will lose the sub in the battle, and the battleship either in the battle itself, or in the counterattack. That's a total of 32 IPCs, versus 38 IPCs at stake for the Americans (possibly another 8 if they lose the transport from the Pacific in the counterattack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the following Japanese turn, the lone U.S. battleship in the Hawaiian seazone is vulnerable to air attack from at least two fighters and a bomber, meaning that Japan stands to recover its &quot;investment&quot; of a battleship. And it still benefits from the setback to America's Atlantic buildup.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T12:52:11.247" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T12:52:11.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:07:29.767" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Drafting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting is pretty popular at &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://play-agricola.com&lt;/a&gt;  It will take longer to get setup, but each player is more likely to have a set of cards that work together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player draws or receives 8 occupations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player picks one occupation and passes the rest to the player to the right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat until each player has 7 occupations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the same process with the Minor Improvements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Banning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also ban the worst of the cards.  The following can currently be optionally banned for online play at play-agricola.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;E occ, &lt;strong&gt;Ratcatcher&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;G occ, &lt;strong&gt;Late Sleeper&lt;/strong&gt; (banned Apr 21, 2011)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I minor, &lt;strong&gt;Wooden Hut Extension&lt;/strong&gt; (banned April 20, 2010) (not banned May 6, 2010) (banned in 4-ERs Sept 17, 2010)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I occ, &lt;strong&gt;Taster&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I occ, &lt;strong&gt;Chamberlain&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(K minor, &lt;strong&gt;Broom&lt;/strong&gt;) (not banned anymore Jan 1, 2010)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;K minor, &lt;strong&gt;Reedhut&lt;/strong&gt; (banned Sept 18, 2009)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;K occ, &lt;strong&gt;Lover&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;K occ, &lt;strong&gt;Wetnurse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Z occ, &lt;strong&gt;Mail Coach Driver&lt;/strong&gt; (banned Sept 18, 2009)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;O minor, &lt;strong&gt;Guest Worker&lt;/strong&gt; (banned Sept 18, 2009)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;note: Z minor &lt;strong&gt;Maypole&lt;/strong&gt; and Z occ &lt;strong&gt;Herald&lt;/strong&gt; are always prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:18:45.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3563" CreationDate="2011-05-31T15:31:55.877" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most relevant &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]&quot; A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority. Doing so puts it on the stack, where it remains until it's countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 602, &quot;Activating Activated Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, once you put the Activated Ability on the stack, it stays there unless it is countered or something specifically removes &lt;em&gt;the ability&lt;/em&gt; from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won't affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, &quot;Prodigal Sorcerer deals 1 damage to target creature or player&quot;) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it's expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule specifically confirms that after the Activated Ability is on the stack, &lt;em&gt;its source is irrelevant&lt;/em&gt;. Any removal of the source or changing of controllers won't affect the Ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this particular case, Act of Aggression can't do anything to stop the Veldalken Anatomist unless it say, targets the opponent's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=97077&quot;&gt;Azorious Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; (also Veldaken! oh the poetic justice!) and, after it resolves, its controller has the mana to put that creature's ability counter on the stack. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, one more thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.5b The player who cast a countered spell or activated a countered ability doesn't get a &quot;refund&quot; of any costs that were paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the ability is countered, no refunds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-05-31T18:58:52.130" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T18:58:52.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:02:12.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The value of R&amp;amp;D varies with the country played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R&amp;amp;D is most valuable to the U.S. player because it has the most IPCs to spare for a gamble, and because it (initially) has the least impact on the game. Two oceans on either side means that the U.S. is easy to defend, but has a hard time as an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tech has to do with airpower, which is to say, the best U.S. means of projecting power. Especially if players can't choose which tech to try for, the U.S. clearly benefits most from longer range aircraft, heavy bombers, rockets (from an anti-aircraft gun to be landed in Algeria), and jet fighters. Economic relief is also helpful, super subs, perhaps the least of all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Britain might benefit from developing tech if she chooses not to buy factories on land and uses an airborne strategy instead. Most techs improve airpower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany and Japan probably shouldn't invest in tech until e.g. a midgame stalemate. In most games, they will either win early or not at all. In that event, they should maximize military units for blitzing their enemies. They get only small benefits from long range aircraft, or jet fighters. The greatest benefits are from heavy bombers (I use a &quot;lighter&quot;version), and economic relief is worth more to them than the Allies. but that requires &quot;boxcars&quot; or 6-5, only two chances out of 36.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia shouldn't roll for tech early on, because she has few planes and little use for them (compared to infantry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-03T13:22:56.487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T13:22:56.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:12:24.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd go for one of the larger continents (Europe or Asia), myself. I won't take it early, because there will be one or two or three holdouts. But it's easy to be forgotten in the mix as attention is focused elsewhere (on the smaller continents). But once I'm ready to &quot;blitz&quot; and wipe out the last holdouts, I'll have a LARGE continent, and will be hard to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T18:12:24.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2011-05-31T18:55:51.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Britain is challenging to play because it has three basic strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Land-based:&lt;/strong&gt; Build a factory in South Africa or India. It's hard to get U.K. ground units into the game except through that way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air based:&lt;/strong&gt; Use (and build) bombers for strategic bombing, and hope to cripple the German economy. The downside is that this might not matter if Germany gets enough extra IPCs by conquering Africa. That's unless you get heavy bombing, which means spending IPCs on research.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seabased:&lt;/strong&gt; Build battleships to replace units lost in the early going, and sweep the seas of Axis shipping, to provide support for American land and air operations in the Mediterranean. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these strategies is totally compelling, meaning that fate depends largely on Russia and the U.S. UK is arguably the hardest country to play: Lots of IPCs to start, but hard to come to grips with the enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/475/advice-for-responding-to-kwabang-attack-when-playing-japan/3587#3587&quot;&gt;my piece&lt;/a&gt; on the &quot;Kwabang&quot; attack. The British player will suffer even if it SUCCEEDS. In most cases, it's a &quot;sucker&quot; play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:26:50.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1237" CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:25:27.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Accepting the queen's gambit pawn is considered disadvantageous under the old, German school of thought. In fact, Tarrasch would play, 1. d4 d5  2. c4  e6 3. Nf3 c5 as BLACK, offering a QB pawn to white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The newer, &quot;Russian&quot; school of thought is that captures c4 is a fighting move that puts a thorn in White's side. Sometimes the pawn can be held if White emphasizes the king side (e.g.) 3: e4 e5; at other times, recapturing the pawn takes White out of his way and dulls the attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:25:27.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:40:11.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about &quot;backstabbing&quot; Austria. Try to follow the real life World War I strategy of making peace with France, and ally with Russia against Austria and Turkey. If necessary, let Turkey in the initial alliance against Austria, then convince Russia to side with you against Turkey, who would otherwise be stronger than Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trieste is HUGE for Italy. You will have a line of four connected supply centers (Naples, Rome, Venice, Trieste). Five, if you say that Tunis is &quot;connected&quot; by sea with the others (I'd call it 4 1/2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If France won't make peace and Austria will, ally with England and/or Germany against France. Hopefully, you'll end up with Marseilles and Spain. But they aren't connect to homeland supply bases like Trieste, Serbia, etc. would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem is that while Russia is a natural ally with you against Turkey, she isn't against England.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:40:11.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-05-31T19:50:10.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best time to &quot;backstab&quot; is at the end of a three way alliance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say Italy, Russia, and Turkey are allied against Austria Hungary. After that country is gone, two of the allies might gang up on the third. (Unless there are &quot;personalities&quot; involved, Italy and Turkey against Russia is the least likely.) In any event, the old schoolyard proverb is applicable: You don't want to be the odd man in a three way fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it is TWO backstabbers against one, you won't get nearly as much opprobrium, either alone, or both put together, as if either of you had backstabbed individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T19:50:10.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2011-05-31T20:44:49.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Wikiquotes &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Machiavelli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; we can get a lesson from the master, which is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Upon this, one has to remark that men ought either to be well treated or crushed, because they can avenge themselves of lighter injuries, of more serious ones they cannot; therefore the injury that is to be done to a man ought to be of such a kind that one does not stand in fear of revenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T20:44:49.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2011-05-31T23:18:01.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pronounce it the way they do in Dead Poets Society (AG-ri-co-la).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxFPc3Q_Lh4&amp;amp;t=1m4s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QxFPc3Q_Lh4&amp;amp;t=1m4s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="440" LastActivityDate="2011-05-31T23:18:01.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3601" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-01T05:12:28.057" Score="12" ViewCount="1849" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I play Advanced Dungeons and Dragons from time to time. Since it's cumbersome to make so many preparations to play so little, I'd like a faster alternative reason to get together and play some board games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be a war game or preferably a dungeon/questing game. Ideally, something to play in two or three hours, maybe more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's legally available to print &amp;amp; play, all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1374" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:26:48.817" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:26:48.817" Title="Recommendation for D&amp;D players who want a faster dungeon/questing game after dinner?" Tags="|recommendations|cooperation|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:28:14.540" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3552" CreationDate="2011-06-01T05:16:04.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can? &lt;br&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should?&lt;br&gt; No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only Fluxx sets with significant goal &amp;amp; keeper overlap are Fluxx and Family Fluxx; certain keepers are duplicated. Those two can be mixed, and mixing those two isn't a clear &quot;Should not&quot;... but the others, they definitely fall into &quot;should not.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such mixing definitely lengthens the game, as needed keepers are harder to acquire. It also reduces the skill factor and increases the luck factor of victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you simply want to mix the new rule cards and action cards, playing with only one set's goals and keepers, that does work somewhat better. It still potentially lengthens the game. (See note.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I say potentially, as the shortest game I've ever played was a combined Fluxx/Family Fluxx game. First goal was runny chocolate, I had sun and several other keepers, and the 1st player played &quot;Play all&quot;... and played a chocolate. I drew, got &quot;Steal a keeper&quot;, stole his chocolate, and played my sun, thus filling the goal, and winning, 2 minutes into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T05:16:04.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3585" CreationDate="2011-06-01T07:06:28.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back page of my set of rules has several systems to try to sort this out.  Appendix 6 of the rules (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/agricola/Agricola_Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3:1 Exchange&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any time, a player may discard any 3 cards from his hand and draw the face-down card at the top of either the Minor Improvements or the Occupations deck. This card is placed in the player’s hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;10-3&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player draws 10 Occupation and 10 Minor Improvement cards and discards 3 of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mulligan&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the game (and only at the start), a player may discard all 7 Occupations and/or Minor Improvements and draw 6 new cards of that type. (If the player is still unhappy, he can keep trying this, always drawing 1 card fewer than he discards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Draft&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the game starts, each player receives a hand of 7 Occupation cards as usual, then chooses one and passes the rest to her left-hand neighbor. Each player chooses one of the 6 new cards and passes on the remaining 5. This continues until each player has 7 cards. Repeat this process with the Minor Improvement cards. This variant allows players to create better combinations of cards than with a purely random distribution. We recommend that each player should have played Agricola at least 4-5 times before trying this variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T07:06:28.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-01T09:22:51.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Dungeon Questing, your best bet is, sadly, long OOP¹: the GW game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/699/heroquest&quot;&gt;HeroQuest&lt;/a&gt;² or it's sequels &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1758/advanced-heroquest&quot;&gt;Advanced HQ&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1634/warhammer-quest&quot;&gt;Warhammer Quest&lt;/a&gt;. Note that the rules are available for free from Hasbro, but the bits aren't, so if you find it on ebay, you can replace the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another excellent, light, but not actually short, ans sadly in between printings, game: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/589/wiz-war&quot;&gt;Wiz-War&lt;/a&gt;. (The more expansions, the longer it plays...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your players like medium length (30min to 2 hours) PVP, Dungeoneer (Example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5576/dungeoneer-tomb-of-the-lich-lord&quot;&gt;Tomb of the Lich Lord&lt;/a&gt; is also excellent. It's a series of standalone games (which can be combined) of dungeon-crawling hack-n-slash. It is PVP, tho', and brutally so. It can be a blast with the right players, tho'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24157/order-of-the-stick-adventure-game-the-dungeon-of-d&quot;&gt;Order of the Stick&lt;/a&gt; is popular; if I could stand OOTS at all, I'd probably enjoy the game, but the art is utter drekh, and interfered with my ability to enjoy the game. It's also longer than I care for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another fun one, very different, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18723/aye-dark-overlord&quot;&gt;Aye, Dark Overlord&lt;/a&gt;. It's not of need a dungeon crawl, but the descriptions needed are usually dungeon crawl-ish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ Out of Print&lt;br&gt;&#xA;² Not to be confused with the Issaries RPG of same name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T00:12:20.047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T00:12:20.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-01T11:52:32.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kobold's Ate My Baby is a very quick and humorous game. It is very enjoyable and provides that dungeon/questing experience you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T11:52:32.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-01T12:58:18.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend Descent, although it can take longer than a few hours. It's easy to set up, the Overlord (DM) doesn't need any preparation time, and it feels like D&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutthroat Caverns is another nice game that works well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T12:58:18.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-01T13:22:49.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the upper end of &quot;fits in the time after dinner&quot; is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21523/runebound-second-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Runebound&lt;/a&gt;, which involves fantasy combats and quests, character growth in different stats, and fighting dragons in the end.  It's rated at 4 hours, though with fewer players (it supports up to 6) it goes faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/4671/descent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Descent&lt;/a&gt; (mentioned by bryanjonker) is a dungeon-crawling game with individual player characters, a variety of obstacles, and miniatures.  I've seen games take anywhere from 2 to 8 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something a little different, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34119/tales-of-the-arabian-nights&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tales of the Arabian Nights&lt;/a&gt; is a story/adventure game that plays in about two hours and uses a &quot;choose your own adventure&quot; style book to lay out the story.  (With something like 2500 nodes in the book, though, you won't memorize it very soon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T13:22:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3616" CreationDate="2011-06-01T13:50:13.113" Score="8" ViewCount="4390" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies (original version), the basically maritime powers, the US and UK have a problem coming to grips with the land-based Axis. One solution is for them to buy industrial complexes in strategic locations to launch military units later in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the UK might build a &quot;factory&quot; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1369/axis-allies-opening-strategies-for-the-u-k/1382#1382&quot;&gt;India or South Africa&lt;/a&gt;, and the US in Sinkiang, west of China. The Sinkiang Factory has a few disadvantages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can launch only two units per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is directed against Japan (the lesser evil).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be captured, making it an &lt;strong&gt;Axis&lt;/strong&gt; asset. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's unrealistic, because Sinkiang is a landlocked territory that consists of Tibet and the Taklamakan desert, which is not exactly prime industrial property, even today. I'd solve this problem by allowing factory builds only in coastal areas (e.g. India, South Africa, Brazil).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An American factory in Brazil seems to have it all over Sinkiang. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can produce &lt;strong&gt;three&lt;/strong&gt; units per turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is directed against the &lt;strong&gt;Germans&lt;/strong&gt; (in Africa)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It won't be captured unless the U.S. player is extremely careless, not merely &quot;unlucky.&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An American transport in African waters can go offshore Brazil, pick up two infantry, back to Africa and unload the infantry all in one turn. (It takes two turns for a round trip from Africa to the U.S.) That's an average savings of one infantry per turn, which will pay for a factory in five turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life, the U.S. built the beginnings of an industrial complex in Brazil, and failed to build one in interior China.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a US player, do you build factories at all? And whether you answered yes or no, is Brazil a better bet than Sinkiang? Or am I missing something? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T05:50:34.220" Title="In Axis and Allies, Should the U.S. Build a &quot;Factory&quot; in Brazil?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1406" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:08:14.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 11 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/Castle_Ravenloft_RuleBook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Castle Ravenloft&lt;/em&gt;™&lt;/a&gt; game's rulebook, and again in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/Wrath_Ashardalon_RuleBook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/em&gt;™'s&lt;/a&gt; one (which is the second title that uses the &lt;em&gt;D&amp;amp;D® Adventure System&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;✦ If the tactic requires the Monster to move to a new tile, place the Monster on the new tile’s bone pile if that square is empty. Whenever possible, Monsters move from tile to &#xA;  tile by following the bone pile. &lt;strong&gt;If the bone pile square is occupied, place the Monster anywhere on the tile.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Emphasis mine.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/em&gt;™, scorches performs the same function of piles of bones in &lt;em&gt;Castle Ravenloft&lt;/em&gt;™. (I wonder if they're going to use spider swarms or webs to mark special squares on the upcoming &lt;em&gt;Legend of Drizzt&lt;/em&gt;™).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="794" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T14:08:14.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:22:36.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being D&amp;amp;D related I suggest games from the &lt;em&gt;D&amp;amp;D® Adventure System&lt;/em&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/207790000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Castle Ravenloft&lt;/em&gt;™&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/214420000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/em&gt;™&lt;/a&gt;, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the upcoming &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/355940000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Legend of Drizzt&lt;/em&gt;™&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="794" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T14:22:36.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="522" CreationDate="2011-06-01T14:47:38.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to use &quot;alert&quot; when you are bidding a special convention that your opponents would reasonably be expected not to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example is my &quot;one and a half&quot; bids using a forcing one club or one diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3600/can-there-be-a-bid-of-one-and-a-half-in-bridge&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3600/can-there-be-a-bid-of-one-and-a-half-in-bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T14:47:38.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-06-01T16:03:02.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's much easier to have all suits stopped (or nearly so) for 1NT with 15-17 points than with 12-14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the latter, I bid 1 club, then 1 NT when partner responds. (If partner can't respond, I'd rather be in 1 club than 1 NT if for no other reason than it gives the opponents a better chance to take me out.) In this sequence, I probably have a weak suit, and hope partner bids &quot;one over one&quot; in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;weak&quot; 1NT works fine if it succeeds, but not when you hear &quot;double.&quot; (And it would not be for takeout). The chances are much less with a &quot;strong&quot; 15-17. Unless partner has less than 3-5 points, you're almost guaranteed 20 or more, and no double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-01T17:14:20.217" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T17:14:20.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-01T17:15:58.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You indicated that you were open to wargames and other types of boardgames, so for a fantasy (but not dungeon-crawl) experience, I really like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt; boardgame, especially if you are a fan of the books (or, now the series, I suppose). But fandom is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; required for enjoying the game. In fact, I have seen things go the other way, where someone becomes a fan of the source after playing the game. I'm not sure of the current in-print status of the game, but I imagine with the series being very popular, the folks at FFG won't let it languish out of print. And you can play up to 5 without any expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36932/claustrophobia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many friends do you have? If you don't have very many, this great 2-player game offers the best dungeon-crawl experience I've ever had in a boardgame. It's tense, tight, and atmospheric. Most games are complete nailbiters, with the outcome riding on a razor's edge until the very end. And it's quick, too. If you have 3 friends, you could play 2 games in an &quot;after dinner&quot; timeframe, and everyone would get a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/83330/mansions-of-madness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mansions of Madness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, it's not a dungeon crawl. But it &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; an RPG-derived trip through a confined location filled with monsters! This one-against-all &lt;em&gt;Call of Cthulhu&lt;/em&gt; is my favorite &quot;RPG-Lite&quot; boardgame experience. I've been though a lot of games in search of one that would offer some of the goodness of an RPG without all the prep and time commitment, and this one is the winner to-date. Customizable characters, customizable scenarios, great miniatures, beautiful maps...just turn the lights down, put on a somber soundtrack and prepare to go insane and be devoured! This game has left Arkham Horror gathering dust on a shelf for my group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25417/battlelore&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BattleLore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another 2-player wargame, BattleLore brings the outstanding system behind &lt;em&gt;Command and Colors: Ancients&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Memoir '44&lt;/em&gt; to a fantasy realm. Battles are fast-paced, rules are simple enough to learn and teach in an evening, and once again, I've played it twice in a row in a reasonable time. Frequently, we'll switch sides after the first battle and try again. I haven't played the Westeros-themed version yet, but it's on my wishlist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1927/munchkin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Munchkin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you're looking for after dinner is some simple silliness, try Munchkin. This RPG-parody card game is packed with RPG tropes, inside jokes, and backstabbing. Fair warning: Munchkin seems to be a matter of taste - even more than most games. Some people hate it. I played (and bought) tons of it early in my boardgaming career. But it doesn't see much play these days. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry, I see that I totally failed to address the print-and-play aspect of your question. I'm not much in that world, as with both glue and hobby knife I represent a danger to myself, my furniture, and any unfortunate bystanders. So I will take the easy way out and refer you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamecategory/1120/print-play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the BGG catalog of PnP games&lt;/a&gt; and the wisdom of many others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you set the category to Fantasy and the sorting to rank, the top entry is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30804/song-of-blades-and-heroes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Song of Blades and Heroes&lt;/a&gt;. If you sort by average rating instead, the item &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/42415/dungeon-crawl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeon Crawl&lt;/a&gt; popped out at me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you find something in here that suits you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T18:07:20.360" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T18:07:20.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-06-01T17:23:08.927" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason for trading a bishop for a knight is to inflict &quot;doubled pawns&quot; on an opponent. (It's possible but less likely the other way around.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Former World Champion Jose R Capablanca felt that knights were more valuable with queens on the board (because their moves are &quot;different&quot;), and bishops more valuable after queens were exchanged. In one epic game (against Marshall), he had a bishop versus knight, and traded his queen plus a pawn for Marshall's queen, just to reverse the relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T17:23:08.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3617" CreationDate="2011-06-01T18:21:32.233" Score="2" ViewCount="420" Body="&lt;p&gt;During World War II, the Soviet Union and Japan had a five year mutual non-aggression pact that was kept until the very end. Could a similar thing happen in Allies and Axis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some versions of the game, this policy is &quot;enforced&quot; by the fact that it costs 5 or even 10 IPCs for one side to attack the other's territories. Would you play such a game variation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other games, there are understandings between the two countries, derived during table talk. This may include not reinforcing territories that the other is likely to attack. For instance, Russia can reinforce British forces that have captured Norway, but not British forces in India. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you try to conclude such an agreement with the other party if you were playing Japan? Russia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T19:13:52.583" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T19:13:52.583" Title="Can Russia and Japan Follow A Mutual &quot;Hands Off&quot; Policy In Axis and Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3608" CreationDate="2011-06-01T22:10:42.423" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine an instance where a US factory in Brazil makes much sense. Let's look at the supposed advantages one by one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It can produce THREE units per turn&lt;/strong&gt; - Yes, but the troops are not in a strategic position. The only territories to which you could move the units and not move your transports out the way is to: French West Africa; French Equatorial Africa; and Belgian Congo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is directed against the GERMANs (in Africa)&lt;/strong&gt; - Yes, but unless Germany has some lucky dice rolls, you should have them hemmed into mainland Europe by turn 3 to 5. If you let Germany hold Africa for any significant amount of time, the Allies are fighting an uphill battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It won't be captured unless the U.S. player is extremely careless, not merely &amp;quot;unlucky.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; - True, that is a benefit over a factory in Sinkiang, whose sole purpose it seems is to help hold back Japan's march into Asia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An American transport in African waters can go offshore Brazil, pick up two infantry, back to Africa and unload the infantry all in one turn.&lt;/strong&gt; - True again: it only requires one turn to shuck troops from Brazil to Africa. However, it's also only one turn to shuck troops from Eastern Canada to Algeria (see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/essay2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;shuck-shuck&amp;quot; from Don Rae's excellent essays&lt;/a&gt; on Allied strategy). The East Canada transport basing has the benefit of being able to attack Africa on turn 2 or 3 (just like best-case Brazil), but it also leaves the transports in position to support Finland or Western Europe instead. This is especially important because it allows the Allies to obfuscate their intended point of attack and/or change it on a whim based on Axis play. Once the shuck is set up troops hit the Europe or Africa every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the sole advantage of a factory in Brazil is to take Africa from Germany. But it's a slow and costly way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Approach to Claiming Ally Control of Africa&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my strategy to quickly secure Africa from Germany's grip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On turn 1, the UK needs to sink as many German naval units as possible. If you're lucky, you'll have a sub, transport and/or battleship left that you can use to attack/as fodder, but even minus that you likely can use your Indian or UK fighters and UK bomber. The idea is to eliminate the German navy ASAP. This needs to be one of the Allies powers' early game goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cede India and go into Africa hard. Depending on the Med. naval situation and how many troops are on the ground in Africa, as UK I'll typically reinforce (or retake) Egypt using my troop in Iraq and two in India.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the UK/USA navy has secured the Atlantic and are sitting in the UK sea zone, have UK move its transports into the Spain Sea zone and drop off at least four infantry. The US needs to follow suit on its turn to protect those transports from the German air force, dropping more troops into Algeria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything hinges on eliminating that German navy sooner rather than later. If you let the German Med. navy sit around past the early game it can be difficult to combat Germany's growing industrial capabilities thanks to the extra 11 IPC they're getting per turn by holding Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;But What If the Allies Don't Take Africa Early?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if the Allies don't take Africa in the early game? What if the UK pulls her African corp to India? What then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still hold that a Brazilian factory is out of the way and not as logistically efficient as transports in the Spain Sea zone. For starters, you need to commit and move transports into the South Atlantic. This takes those transports out of the North Atlantic, where they can help protect the UK and USA navies that should be focusing on dumping wave after wave of infantry into Finland en route to Karelia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US transports are ideally situated in the North Atlantic because it allows them the greatest range of options. From the UK sea zone the US can drop troops into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finland&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Western Europe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can move to Spain Sea zone and still in one turn send troops to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Western Europe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Algeria&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The North Atlantic allows the most range of motion and allows the Allies to project their will into Europe and Africa. From Brazil, the Allies are limited to just Africa, albeit a with a wider choice of landing zones. But I argue it's best to keep the US/UK navies together in the Northern Atlantic so that they can project their will together and so that they present a less appealing target for the German air force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T23:41:54.063" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3615" CreationDate="2011-06-01T22:30:34.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would you try to conclude such an agreement with the other party if you were playing Japan? Russia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was playing Japan, no, I'd not want such an agreement. If I was Russia, then yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia's sole aim in the early game is to build up a wall of infantry in Karelia to stop Germany from expanding her borders and to buy time until her allies can start sending in wave after wave of troops support. (By the midgame the US should be depositing 10-12 infantry into Finland each and every turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a &quot;hands off&quot; policy with Japan allows Russia two distinct advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It inflates their economic base. The Soviet Far East and Yakut are two territories that usually fall under Japanese control relatively early in the game. That's 4 IPC per turn Russia gets to keep until later with this agreement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It let's them focus on reinforcing Karelia without having to worry about staffing troops in Russia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see how such a deal might sound ideal to Japan at first blush - namely, Japan gets to focus 100% on China, Sinkiang, and India, but I don't think it's worth it in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-06-01T22:30:34.487" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-06-02T01:50:42.373" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is very similar to Scott's, but with subtle variations to make it less burdensome to play in person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a rule, just a suggestion: &lt;strong&gt;Play with someone you trust.&lt;/strong&gt; There's going to be hidden information, and if you think the other player is going to cheat you're going to be paranoid about looking for malfeasance and not have fun. Two honest players can make this work without a moderator, which I think is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two boards, one for the axis and one for the allies&lt;/strong&gt;. If multiple players  represent each side then they see their side's board; this models the sharing of intelligence amongst friends and reduces the need for more than two boards. The boards should be set up in full view of both players and then a divider put up between then. After setup, the army trays and money are set to the side in view of both players so that it's clear what's going into and coming out of the trays (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trust,_but_verify&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;doveryai, no proveryai&lt;/a&gt;). Having the players in two rooms would be a logistical nightmare; this is simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each player can see units in enemy-controlled adjacent land territories&lt;/strong&gt;. The friendly territory only has to be controlled, not occupied. This models the ability to generally know what the enemy has on the front lines and eliminates the need to add a new surveillance mechanic to the game. (The bomber idea sounds cool but would be tedious and error-prone in practice. Imagine the time spend reading off all the locations you wanted to spy on and then adjusting the board--at the start of every turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cannot see adjacent naval territories&lt;/strong&gt;. This models the largeness of the sea and difficulty of conducting naval reconnaissance with WWII-era ships. The only way you know what is in a sea territory is if you try and move into it. This would require only a minor change to the current rules: all naval movements are combat movements, unless ships were moving into friendly-occupied sea zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fighters and bombers can only conduct &amp;quot;reconnaissance&amp;quot; of sea zones if they attack&lt;/strong&gt;. If aircraft attack an occupied sea zone then combat commences as normal; if it is empty then their movement is consumed, but nothing else happens. Overflying a sea zone reveals nothing; you must commit to attack it. This models that searching the sea for ships is harder than overflying territory on your way somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like that this is similar to the original idea of using planes for spying but with less overhead. I also like that this enables submarines to become a more effective naval unit because they can &amp;quot;hide&amp;quot; in plain sight. An enemy has to use a fighter's attack to even see if they are there. I get excited thinking if Germany could use this rule to build a North Atlantic navy under the UK's nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Purchases are public knowledge; placement is not&lt;/strong&gt;. Players must show their money and what they're buying. Purchases are placed in view of both players while the rest of the turn is conducted. This models the ability of nation to get a general idea of their enemies industrial capacity and capabilities. This also has the added benefit of reducing the opportunity to cheat because both players are verifying the amount of money being turned in and the units being purchased. (Also, honest math mistakes in purchasing are common.) Units are placed in secret, except for those placed on the front lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these changes I think it would be possible to play with only two boards, in a single room, without a moderator. If anyone can think of any holes let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T01:50:42.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3619" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-02T02:11:31.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola: Farmers of the Moor (FOTM) is the first big expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/agricola&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;agricola&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;agricola&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This expansion adds to the base game with a large set of new improvements, and adds a number of new features. Horses are introduced as a new type of animal. In addition, you not only have to feed your family, but you must keep them from becoming &quot;ill&quot; by heating each room in your house. You can get fuel to heat your home by chopping down the forests on your farmyard, or by harvesting peat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="6225" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T18:18:17.110" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T18:18:17.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3620" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-02T02:11:31.137" Score="0" Body="Agricola: Farmers of the Moor (FOTM) is an expansion set to the strategic farming simulation game" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T02:11:57.487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T02:11:57.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2011-06-02T07:27:26.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the many instances I have seen this strategy attempted, it has always involved a compromise on other resources, which hurts the greedy player in the end.  Furthermore, nobody trades with a player who is dominating them.  It's psychology and strategy both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the best case scenario, provided you can get good probabilities of all 4 of the other resources, and lock up the only high-probability ore, by all means go ahead.  This will involve a lucky setup and a lucky roll (to go first, and to still be able to get all 4 other resources.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T07:27:26.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3625" CreationDate="2011-06-02T13:49:55.457" Score="11" ViewCount="43715" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone knows how the United States REALLY won World War II. It concentrated first in North Africa, then the Mediterranean (Italy), and closed with the cross-channel invasion at Normandy that ended in Berlin. That is a viable strategy for the U.S. player in Axis and Allies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of U.S. players build a factory in Sinkiang to stop the Japanese occupation of Asia. The logical follow-up to that is to build (or re-build) a Pacific Navy as a hammer to the anvil of Chinese troops. This plan ends with America's &quot;spoils of war&quot; being Japan, China, and the &quot;ASEAN&quot; countries, while the UK and Russia take down Germany. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the one thing the US (and UK) DIDN'T try to do in World War II was to try to link up with Russia via Norway. But it is the basis of the simple &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; strategy devised by Don Rae.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the preferred option of many AA aficionados: Dump American infantry into Norway in &quot;assembly line&quot; fashion after Russia (or the UK) has captured it, send them through Karelia and Eastern Europe to Berlin if necessary (otherwise transport them across the Baltic for an amphibious assault on the enemy heartland with air support). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the real life &quot;cross channel&quot; (and cross-Med) strategy the best one in AA? Or do our strategists know something that America's real life military didn't &quot;know&quot; in favoring one of the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-10-19T11:31:31.297" LastActivityDate="2023-10-19T11:31:31.297" Title="In Axis and Allies, what US strategy has the highest win rate? Why?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|history|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2011-06-02T15:12:10.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make sure EVERYONE knows that Italy is the weakest country, by reminding them of it constantly, both during the game and every time the subject of Diplomacy comes up in conversation generally.  Hopefully this will lull them into a false sense of security, so that you can actually get somewhere with your beleaguered green armies.  Certainly if anyone starts picking on you, you are entitled to complain loudly: &quot;C'mon! Everyone knows that Italy doesn't stand a chance of winning this game! Stop hassling me!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this meta-strategy can easily backfire: if you become just too annoying and whiny, people may start attacking you just in the hope of shutting you up!  But generally I think it's perfectly reasonable, given the common knowledge that Italy is far from the strongest position in the game, to present yourself as an underdog and no real threat... until you've rallied your forces sufficiently to strike.  It's all part of the fun of the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T15:12:10.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2011-06-02T16:37:31.880" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What Is the Preferred Strategy For the US in Axis and Allies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You answered your own question - the simple &lt;a href=&quot;http://draidin.com/websites/AAEssays/Index.html&quot;&gt;&quot;shuck-shuck&quot; strategy&lt;/a&gt; devised by Don Rae. The reason it works is because infantry are cheap and defend at 2, but only attack at 1. Therefore you can build an impenetrable infantry force that can withstand a large German offensive push and keep Germany hemmed into mainland Europe, freeing Russia and the UK to focus on pushing back Japan and tipping (or keeping) the IPC balance in favor of the Allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do our strategists know something that America's &quot;real life&quot; military didn't know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were many reasons why &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; was not implemented in real life. Among them include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geopolitical reasons&lt;/strong&gt; - remember, the Allies only grudgingly allied with Russia. They were viewed as the lesser of two evils and a necessary ally to help end the war. Also, in real life &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Military_history_of_Finland_during_World_War_II&quot;&gt;Finland was attacked by Russia&lt;/a&gt; in 1939 in the Winter War. Then, from 1941-1944, Finland allied with Germany and declared war on Russia and aided Germany in attacking Leningrad. Given that they were at war with Russia, I doubt Finland would have permitted the US and UK to march troops through their country to assist in the defense of Russia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Logistical reasons&lt;/strong&gt; - moving troops from Norway to Karelia takes &quot;one turn&quot; in the game, but would be more labor and time intensive to accomplish in reality given the topology and climate of that region. Also, I presume the infrastructure to move millions of troops, equipment, and foodstuff was not in place and would need to be built. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sociological/psychological reasons&lt;/strong&gt; - how positively would the American public respond to a war strategy that boiled down to, &quot;We send millions of our own boys into the arctic and down into Russia to have a staring contest with the Germans. We'll liberate France when we get around to it. Also don't forget that this was not long after World War I, which was notorious for brutal trench warfare that resulted in pointless, high casualty offensive actions and long standing stalemates. It would be hard to sell the public on a repeat of a &quot;dig in and wait&quot;-type strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Economic reasons&lt;/strong&gt; - the US has the economic means and raw materials to produce modern weaponry at a scale that couldn't be matched by the Axis powers. The US had not been engaged in warfare for years, suffered bombing runs on their mainland factories, and so forth. It wouldn't make much sense to have the US focus on building a large defensive troop position when they could focus on building battleships, bombers, planes, tanks, and so on. Also, in real life the value of a human being is worth more than 3 IPC. :-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T22:14:36.197" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T22:14:36.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3646" CreationDate="2011-06-02T19:11:06.917" Score="3" ViewCount="3806" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some (mainly Axis) players refuse to play Axis and Allies if Russia is allowed to attack on the first turn. Other (mainly Russian) players argue that Russia is unfairly hobbled if it has to play strict defense at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some would argue that if Russia captures a territory (Norway, Ukraine, Manchuria) on the first turn, the Axis have too few IPCs between them to have a fair chance. Others might counterargue that the Axis have a chance to capture them back and regain their income, which is calculated as of the end of their turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a more important reason for the dispute is that Russia gets to &quot;kill&quot; a fighter in those territories with a first turn attack, at the cost of an infantry unit. That's a difference of 9 or even 10 IPCs (the fighter has only a 2/3 chance hitting the 3 IPC infantry).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &quot;fix&quot; for this problem is to allow Germany to move the fighters in e.g. Ukraine and Norway back to, say, Eastern Europe, and likewise, Japan its Manchuria-based fighter back to Kwantung before the game starts, thus modifying the original setup. Then allow Russia a first turn attack. That way, the Russian player gets the opportunity to capture a territory, but not to kill a fighter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter which side you are on in this debate, are you satisfied with this compromise? Would you still choose Russia if the Axis can now &quot;protect&quot; their fighters? If Axis, will you now play the game with a Russia first turn attack option? Or will this remain a sore point that could prevent certain players from playing the game with certain others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-06-02T20:03:40.307" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:13:39.703" Title="Can We Find a Middle Ground on the Russia First Turn Attack Rule In Allies and Axis?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2011-06-02T20:57:01.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You resign when it is mathematically impossible for you to win, and also, if it is mathematically impossible for your opponent to get a gammon or backgammon. This occurs after contact has been broken off between the two teams (no possibility of further hits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mathematically&quot; impossible to win means, give yourself 6-6 the rest of the way, give your opponent 2-1, and you still lose. That happens only at the very end of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gammon (and backgammon) is ruled out when you have borne off one piece, or will do so with the worst rolls for you, and the best rolls for your opponent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-02T20:57:01.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3634" CreationDate="2011-06-02T22:42:06.060" Score="0" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;At one level, we can measure the cost of discovering tech using IPCs. Each die roll costs 5 IPCs, and one discovery will be made every six rolls, on average, yielding an average cost of 30 IPCs. Some discoveries may be worth that much or more during the course of a game, others probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we could measure the various techs in terms of IPCs, then we could compare them against each other. We could also weigh them against the 30 IPCs it takes to find them. (In the Classic Game, one needs to think in terms of 180 IPCs for a &quot;package&quot; of all techs; the first one might not be heavy bombers.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone &quot;knows&quot; that heavy bombers carry a disproportionate value. Can we now construct a tool to find out how disproportionate, and whether reducing the value of the tech from three to two die rolls is adequate? And the reverse question for some others: do they need to be upgraded to make them worth researching?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:25:35.553" Title="In Axis and Allies, Is There A Way to Measure the Benefits of Various Techs Against Each Other? And the Cost of Discovery?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2011-06-02T23:33:31.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you define &quot;best&quot; country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean, &quot;easiest country to play,&quot; probably U.S.A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;most multifacted,&quot; perhaps Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;most vulnerable,&quot; and like the adrenalin of an early brush with &quot;death,&quot; before coming back from behind, then Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;most challenging&quot; (in terms of difficulty of finding a clear strategy), I think the U.K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you mean &quot;king of the hill&quot; that (almost) everyone wants to knock down, then Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-03T13:14:47.817" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T13:14:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-03T01:00:37.020" Score="15" ViewCount="1056" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that Pogo.com (which powers Yahoo Games) has a long running online bridge game and that there are a handful of places for serious tournament/MasterPoint level bridge players online (though most seem based on software written a decade or more ago) but are there any places to play, practice and learn bridge in a more casual manner? Ideally via a well designed modern piece of software?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T18:58:18.933" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T18:58:18.933" Title="Is there a good casual online place to practice/learn bridge?" Tags="|bridge|online|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3629" CreationDate="2011-06-03T04:06:38.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Your only hope is to give each tech a deterministic, crowd-sourced price&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, I think the game's tech mechanic is too complicated to yield a useful mathematical model. The average (i.e. expected) cost of successfully researching a technology--or of researching one in particular--is only part of the story. &lt;strong&gt;The more important metric is the variance of the cost&lt;/strong&gt;; that is, the average may be 30 (or 180) IPCs, but how often is it going to cost 5 and how often 300?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is this uncertainty that drives player's decisions as much as the mean because &lt;strong&gt;everyone's desperation and risk tolerance is different&lt;/strong&gt;. I have a low risk tolerance and prefer to play a slow-and-steady game, believing that superior play will eventually win out and balance out all but the worst of rolls. Thus I never research tech, feeling that the times when I get it cheap will be outweighed by the certain defeat earned if I spend two or three turns researching to no avail. Some people love to take the risk knowing that if they get lucky they can almost assuredly win the game, and don't mind losing the majority of the times they don't get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to make it even more complicated, &lt;strong&gt;this risk calculus isn't static but is influenced by the changing game situation&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, I've played several games where the other player succeeded in a desperation bid for heavy bombers. Although I was never willing to go for it before, as soon as that happens I know I have to match them or lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any proposed tech model must have formulas for the expected cost and the variance (which could be done by folks better at probability math that I). The almost impossible part is that it must have a model for the value of the tech specific to each country and to the particular situation on the game board (even heavy bombers aren't that useful if the bombers aren't in range of suitable factories, and have delayed gratification if the player has very few bombers already in the arsenal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I cannot think of a first principles method to calculate this tech value&lt;/strong&gt;; I think the only hope would be to set the price empirically, like a bookie sets the odds on a horse race based on the bets they're receiving. Perhaps this could be done by modifying the rules to make the cost of each tech deterministic (i.e. a tech can be bought for X IPCs). Then have experienced players play a ton of games, adjusting the tech prices as necessary until whether or not a given technology is purchased has a statistically insignificant effect on the outcome of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that data existed perhaps &lt;strong&gt;the model could be made more complicated by having the price be a function of the turn in which it is bought&lt;/strong&gt;. Once those numbers were established, the mean and variance from the rolling-for-tech mechanic could be used to set the price per roll such that the median cost were equal to the market price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is you'd need a infeasible number of games as your data set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T04:06:38.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-06-03T05:02:55.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use an iPod/iPhone &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macworld.com/appguide/app.html?id=74793&amp;amp;expand=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Settlers Dice App&lt;/a&gt;.  The benefits I see are: &#xA;1.)  They're quiet, &#xA;2.)  They're fast, &#xA;3.)  They don't make a mess and get hung up on piles of cards or the edge of the board, and &#xA;4.)  The probabilities are assured by the programming.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The probabilities exactly match the theoretical probability of each dice roll, which is not the case with physical dice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have used two iPod Touch/iPhone apps: &quot;Settlers' Stats&quot; and &quot;Dice of Catan&quot;.  &quot;Stats&quot; has a so called feature that allows you to track point changes of the various players.  This turns out to be more trouble than counting again when you wonder.  This app stinks.  &quot;Dice of Catan&quot; is a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dice of Catan&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.macworld.com/appguide/app.html?id=74793&amp;amp;expand=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(On the App Store)&lt;/a&gt; costs $0.99.  It is a very pleasant and simple app to use, and it takes the physical dice out of the game, which I think is a big plus.  You tap the dice, and they display a pseudo-random (probability driven) Settlers of Catan roll.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Features: &#xA;Cities and Knights (C&amp;amp;K) support (has a die for barbarian movement/progress card.)&#xA;Safe mode for early rounds, which allows no sevens (and no barbarian movement in C&amp;amp;K).&#xA;Multicolored dice (one red, one green, see below.)&#xA;Tracks barbarian movement and has a pop-up reminder for the Robber/Bandit and when the Barbarian strikes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eiVuY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example Roll&quot;&gt;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ysHeN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example Bandits&quot;&gt;  &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WdoCK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Always starts in Safe Mode, tap to change&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1343" LastEditorUserId="1343" LastEditDate="2011-06-03T05:08:06.867" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T05:08:06.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4319" CreationDate="2011-06-03T05:08:31.063" Score="3" ViewCount="2199" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, as far as I understand it, the rulebook for Europe states that if a country invades a &quot;strict neutral&quot; (that is, any neutral that doesn't specify if it is Pro-Allies or Pro-Axis) then ALL other strict neutrals go pro-&quot;non attacking side.&quot; For example, let's say that Italy invades Greece. Greece is a strict neutral, so according to the rules, all of the other &quot;strict neutrals&quot; would now become Pro-Allies.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the U.S. invades Brazil, why would Greece care, or Switzerland for that matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not play with these rules, since I think they don't make sense.  What variations of this have you played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T02:53:55.573" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T22:26:54.407" Title="Axis and Allies Europe edition: Neutral Territories?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2011-06-03T05:21:24.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always been a naval minded player, so playing Russia is difficult for me. This is my answer: build troops and fighters. The U.S. cannot send you fighters until they are in the war... that's too late. The U.K. could but they need them for themselves. What I have done (and this has never failed me) is build fighters and then with the left over money, men. Leave one infantry piece in each territory on the way to Moscow, Leningrad, and Stalingrad. This will slow the German advance. The numbers of hits you can take will be absorbed by your infantry, and the best way to hit them back is with a 4 or less defense with your fighters. I was fighting a numerically inferior force and lost. I had 32 infantry as the Russians to defend Moscow once, and the German army smashed it... Another time I played, I had 18 infantry and 10 fighters. My air force is what hit the German army, whilst my infantry absorbed the hits. That is the best strategy thus far that I have seen and used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastEditorUserId="1154" LastEditDate="2011-07-19T21:28:42.560" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T21:28:42.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3639" CreationDate="2011-06-03T06:51:01.280" Score="14" ViewCount="12905" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Seven Wonders one of the the wonder abilities allows you to look through discarded cards and pick one to build for free. If you use this in your very last turn can you pick a card from Age III, i.e. can you pick one that has only just been discarded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess similarly could you use it in the last turn of Age II to pick up an Age II card but that is not nearly as powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1385" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T19:29:00.017" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T19:29:00.017" Title="In Seven Wonders can you use the &quot;Play card from Discard Piles&quot; ability to play an age III card?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2011-06-03T13:06:29.257" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you take the last turn, each player first discards a card and then plays a card.  At this point when playing the wonder, you have access to the cards that were discarded for that reason.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You also have access to all cards previously discarded, as well as the cards discarded that round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T01:47:30.103" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T01:47:30.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3629" CreationDate="2011-06-03T13:09:26.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to take a crack at answering my own question. My answer has certain limitations, insofar as it is a purely mathematical, mechanistic construct. It also applies to starting &quot;endowments&quot; of military and territory, and doesn't allow for the fact that new techs may affect strategies (e.g. jet fighters make you build more fighters than otherwise). Nevertheless, something is better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The least useful tech is super subs. It improves subs' combined combat factors (attack plus defense) by 25%, (five versus four). Applied to an IPC value of 8, that's a gain of 2 IPCs. And most countries have only on sub. I can't see spending 30 IPCs to research this. Others pay for themselves in about four turns (or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, the combined combat factors of jet fighters is improved from seven to eight. Applied to their 12 IPCs, the gain is about 2 IPCs. Most. countries have three or four fighters so the gain is 6-8 IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Economic relief reduces IPC costs of units by 1. The gain is 50% for infantry and 4% for bombers. Arbitrarily, I said that the &quot;average&quot; unit is a tank, for a 25% gain. That's a pick up of 6 IPCs (out of 24) for Russia, and 9 IPCs for the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rockets give (one) anti-aircraft gun the value of a bomber. Essentially, your 5 IPC gun has been upgraded to a 15 IPC bomber for a gain of 10 IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long range aircraft? Bombers and fighters are about equal in combat capacity (the first on offense, the second on defense, seldom the other way around). But bombers cost 3 more IPCs for two more zones of range. Using this value for the upgrade, and an average of four &quot;planes&quot; per country, the gain is 3 x 4 or 12 IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And heavy bombers themselves? In the original version, a heavy bomber is worth THREE normal bombers. Since the latter are worth 15 IPCs, the gain is 30 IPCs, way out of proportion to the others. Using the &quot;two roll&quot; rule, the pickup is more like 15 IPCs, at the high end of the &quot;pack,&quot; but no longer over the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference is to use modifications of long range aircraft (plus 1 square instead of 2) for a gain of about 6 IPCs and the 50% better heavy bomber (THREE good rolls on two dice instead of four; strategic bombing averages 5.5 hits instead of 3.5), for an IPC gain of about 8. These changes would make &quot;rockets&quot; (ten IPCs) the best tech to research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T13:09:26.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2011-06-03T13:27:32.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No first turn Russian attack is more than saving the fighters&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finland has 3 infantry, 1 fighter and 1 tank, and they can all get killed on a first turn attack by Russia. The losses from that battle alone are worth (3*3 + 5 + 12) 26 IPCs. &lt;strong&gt;When I play as Germany, if Finland isn't attacked on Russia's first turn I usually attack Karelia using all available ground forces, just to retreat before round 2 to extract all but one infantry from Finland.&lt;/strong&gt; Now of course this isn't always possible: if Russian really stacks Karelia well then even one turn of attacking can incur unacceptable losses, but you might be surprised how many people leave too many Russian infantry in the Caucasuses, which opens them up to my Finlandian retreat. So if we discount the 26 by the 1 inf being left behind we're at 23, then another fudge factor to account for the times when my little 1-round gambit is too risky and maybe the valuation is down to 12. That's pretty close to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/177/axis-and-allies-is-there-a-best-country/2269#2269&quot;&gt;spread between the bids on Russia attacks and no Russia attack games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And we haven't even talked the risk that Russia can take Finland and kill the fighter in the Ukraine (although both European attacks might stretch Russia a little thin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, Asia. &lt;strong&gt;I don't count this one for much (in terms of Russian upside)&lt;/strong&gt;. Sure, Russia can take out the Manchurian fighter on the first turn if they really want, but to be safe that probably involves using the fighter from Russia, which isn't available if they attack Finland and/or the Ukraine. Plus, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/essay1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Don Rae rightly points out&lt;/a&gt;, the Manchuria attack puts Russian troops in a dead zone where they can be directly attacked by the Japanese navy (see Turn 1 under the heading &lt;em&gt;The Right Japanese Typical Purchases and Deployment Strategy&lt;/em&gt;). In fact, if Russia attacked Manchuria and left some tanks and armor there I would probably &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2564/axis-and-allies-2nd-edition-to-pearl-harbor-or-not-to-pearl-harbor&quot;&gt;not attack Pearl Harbor&lt;/a&gt; just so I could use my battleships and extra aircraft in the battle to make sure I won. Wiping out the Russian tanks on the Eastern front pretty much opens up Russia to being dominated early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as an Axis player, I put a high premium on the no Russia attack rule. I think it saves me between 12 and 23 IPCs as Germany. Granted, this is equal to the cost of the 1-2 fighters you suggest saving as an alternative ruleset, but I value the units I've saved more. Germany needs tanks and infantry early as much as they need planes, and I'd probably only lose one in a first turn Russian attack anyway (almost noise compared to what I might lose on Germany's first turn taking out all the navies). &lt;strong&gt;That is why I pretty much only play no first turn Russian attacks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to consider the Allied perspective. The game is already unbalanced (see the link about bid spreads), so if someone wants to play me straight up with no bid, then not attacking as Russia is the least I can do (remembering that I don't consider giving up the Asian attack to be a concession at all; I wouldn't do it even if it was allowed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;As the Axis I would not take this deal&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would need more incentive that just saving my fighters to be okay with letting Russia attack in the first round. As the Allies I'd take the deal because it's not much of a concession (I'm not attacking the fighter in Asia and the one fighter I give up killing in Europe doesn't unbalance the game enough for me to be worried at having a chance to win).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T13:27:32.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2011-06-03T13:32:58.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never played Axis and Allies Europe, but the rules seem a little silly to me as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I can see the historical justification though. Neutral parties are just trying to stay out of the war, something they can typically only get away with if their territory or industrial base isn't a significant enough benefit to be worth the opportunity cost of diverting military resources to conquering and holding them. It's easy to see how the Swiss managed this. Mountainous terrain, armed citizens, easy to go around on the way to France, no industrial base to speak of, and useful to keep as not an enemy so that you can use their banking system. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps even given this calculus it might still be too enticing to pick off a small neutral or two. So the neutrals basically agree, tacitly or otherwise that if one of them gets picked off they all go to war. This raises the stakes for the attacker from having to deal with one little country to having to deal with a bunch of them--all over the globe. Now it's definitely not worth the trouble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the game is just trying to capture the same sentiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T13:32:58.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3645" CreationDate="2011-06-03T15:06:36.267" Score="3" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most players of Axis and Allies understand intuitively that the original heavy bombers tech &quot;unbalances&quot; the game by being disproportionately good. My own research confirms this by valuing the two additional rolls as 30 IPCs (per bomber), meaning that the tech pays for its 30 IPC research costs in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players allow heavy bombers only two rolls instead of three. You basically get two bombers for the price of one, +15 IPCs. That's still higher than other techs (6-10 IPCs), but less of an outlier than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own preference is for a 50% increment in the bomber's original powers. That is two rolls for heavy bombers but only THREE numbers hit (instead of four), six numbers instead of four or eight. For strategic bombing, take the die roll +2 for a range of 3-8 instead of 1-6 (average of 5.5 hits instead of 3.5). This gives heavy bombers an incremental value of about 8, squarely in line with other techs'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a heavy bomber tech, either the &quot;two roll&quot; rule, or my 50% increment version, or some other suggestion that allows people to use heavy bombers without throwing the game out of whack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T00:37:08.790" Title="In Axis and Allies, Can Heavy Bombers Be &quot;Tamed&quot;?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-03T15:42:55.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People seem to have omitted Talisman.  Talisman really has the feel of d&amp;amp;d, and I love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're looking for co-op, also consider games like Lord of the Rings (coop version).  This has the hopeless quest feel to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T15:42:55.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3643" CreationDate="2011-06-03T16:26:52.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1032/recommended-axis-allies-alternative-rules-variations/2253#2253&quot;&gt;this question about A&amp;amp;A variants&lt;/a&gt; I suggesting changing heavy bombers such that &lt;strong&gt;each bomber is worth two dice, choose the higher value&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;For attacking this means the probability of successful attack increases 33 percent&lt;/strong&gt;: from 0.67 (4/6) to 0.89 (1 - 2/6^2). &lt;strong&gt;For strategic bombing the expected value of IPCs would goes up by 28 percent&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my rule makes bombers about 33 percent better than they were before, which using Tom's methodology is worth about 5 IPCs, since each bomber is costs 15. This is a 6-turn pay-back with 1 bomber, or two turns with 3--not accounting for the time-value of IPCs. This seems much more in line with the increases in the other techs. (Also see the footnote at the bottom explaining how this rule reduces the likelihood of bad rolls in addition to increasing the average. This is additional value not included in the 5 IPC figure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Derivation of the increase in expected strategic bombing value&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 1-die the value is 3.5. For rolling two dice and picking the higher one, the math is much more complicated. From this paper on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.madandmoonly.com/doctormatt/mathematics/dice1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dice probabilities&lt;/a&gt;, the probability that the highest number rolled with n dice is k is given by (sorry, no tex formatting on the board game site):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(k^n - (k - 1)^n) / 6^n&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which for n = 2 reduces to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(k^2 - (k - 1)^2) / 36&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we calculate the probability that our two rolls will give us each value from 1 - 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Value  Probability Equation&#xA;1       1/36       (1^2 - (1-1)^2)/36 &#xA;2       3/36       (2^2 - (2-1)^2)/36&#xA;3       5/36       (3^2 - (3-1)^2)/36 &#xA;4       7/36       (4^2 - (4-1)^2)/36 &#xA;5       9/36       (5^2 - (5-1)^2)/36 &#xA;6      11/36       (6^2 - (6-1)^2)/36 &#xA;       36/36  &amp;lt;--- just checking the sum&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to calculate the expected value we have to weight these probabilities by the likelihood (i.e. multiple the value and probability columns and sum), which results in 4.47--a 28 percent increase over 3.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This table also makes clear that rolls are now going to be biased on the high side. Where as before the chances of getting a 1 were 1/6 = 17 percent, now they are 3 percent. And the probability of getting a 6 has increased from 17 percent to 30 percent. So the average has moved up and moved up in a way that makes it very unlikely you will get a bad roll, removing some of the luck from strategic bombing, further increasing their value above the postulated value of 5 IPCs per bomber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T16:26:52.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2011-06-03T18:37:21.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option (in addition to the fighter option, perhaps) would be to prohibit (or limit) what German naval units can be attacked by Russia on the opening move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I play Russia and am allowed to attack on the opening move I aim to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wipe out the transport and sub in the Baltic Sea Zone with my two fighters. This carries a bit of risk because if the transport hits I lose a fighter and Russian fighters are essential. Another downer for the Germans when I make this move is that their sub is pinned in the Baltic Sea Zone since the UK Sea Zone is occupied.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove the German sub from the Span Sea Zone. If I'm feeling lucky I'll use just my Russian sub, but more generally I use my sub and transport.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these moves, Germany is going to have a hard time taking out both the Atlantic and Mediterranean fleets in the first turn, and will likely suffer some crippling loses if they attempt to do so. That means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less chance for Germany to take and hold Africa for any appreciable amount of time,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quicker introduction of the &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; strategy, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Less chance of any sort of counter-attack against the UK sea zone in an attempt to slow the inevitable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, successfully weakening the German navy at the very start of the game puts even more pressure on Japan to break through to Russia before the US gets into full &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; swing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T18:37:21.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3135" CreationDate="2011-06-03T22:14:44.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thickness and heavy stones are &quot;similar,&quot; insofar as they involve a large number of stones. But there the similarity ends, because thick and heavy groups function differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thick stones are those that you want to drive your opponent toward, because they are secure, meaning that your opponent's relatively few stones will suffer in the presence of your many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavy stones are sometimes referred to as &quot;dangos&quot; or &quot;clumps,&quot; awkward, insecure groups of stones that are easily chased by your opponent's stones, even if fewer. They are stones you'd rather have your opponent stay away from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, if a group of thick stones have suddenly lost their &quot;eye space&quot; or foundation, they can become heavy. On the other hand, a heavy group with new-found eyes can become thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T18:42:33.477" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T18:42:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2011-06-03T22:55:51.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One mission, secret or otherwise, that might have changed the course of the war (other than the atomic bomb), would be a German-Japanese link up in India, Persia, or somewhere in the Middle East.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not as far-fetched as it might have seemed. Japan's Admiral Yamamoto wanted to launch an amphibious invasion of India, until he changed plans and headed to Midway. Hitler originally decided to go after Russian oilfields in the Caucasus, then sent half the southern army to Stalingrad instead, capturing neither objective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Allies gave each other Lend Lease, the Axis, never, because they were separated. Germany was short of fuels, and Japan was short of  metals. A link up would have allowed trading. The result would have been worthy of a huge game bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, understand the destruction they would have left in their wake. Japan would have occupied India, Germany would have grabbed the Suez Canal (if the linkup was with Rommel) or penetrated the Caucasus, and grabbed Russia's oilfields, (if it had been Paulus). Russia and China would have been inside a vast Axis ring, with Britain and the U.S. outside. The Axis might have gotten at least a negotiated peace and one-third of the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T22:55:51.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2281" CreationDate="2011-06-03T23:15:10.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an easy game to pick up. It takes several hours to learn, or at least learn well. It's multifaceted, with diplomatic, military, and economic considerations. Then playing could take the better part of a day. Best left for a long weekend or say, cruise vacation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a good game for MY family. But that's because we're all game geeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T23:15:10.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3486" CreationDate="2011-06-03T23:51:15.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 13 x13 board, I'd make your third move on the center point, and try to &quot;control the center,&quot; as in chess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be done on a full 19x19 board, but that is a very sophisticated way of playing because the center stone can be more easily gotten around. It's worth more on the smaller board because it almost links your two corner stones together and makes it almost impossible for your opponent to do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-03T23:51:15.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-06-04T01:03:10.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tactics are the most important part of the game, so training in tactics will improve your game the fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other parts (opening, endgame etc.) are helpful, but they take more effort to learn well. Tactics gives you the biggest &quot;bang for the buck.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T01:03:10.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3633" CreationDate="2011-06-04T06:06:15.027" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for free online site, I would &lt;em&gt;strongly&lt;/em&gt; recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebaseonline.com/&quot;&gt;BridgeBase Online&lt;/a&gt;, or BBO for short. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can create an account by just specifying a username and password and either login using the web browser or using their downloadable windows version of the software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BBO has a lot of features, like partnership bidding rooms, GIB robots (which you have to pay a minimal fee, if you want to use them), tons of free tournaments. They also have two 'clubs', the Main Bridge Club and Relaxed Bridge Club, where you can play casual games (the Relaxed Club being more casual). Anytime I have logged on, there were at least 3000 players online! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the added bonus that a lot of great players play there (look for some of the 'stars') and they have an excellent broadcast line up of high level bridge tournaments, with commentators giving insights, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have a supporting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/index.php&quot;&gt;forum&lt;/a&gt; where a lot of good players visit and you can discuss bridge/the BBO software/ or even Global Warming! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T06:06:15.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3682" CreationDate="2011-06-04T18:42:32.317" Score="2" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;In World War II, the US and Japanese navies battled it out in the north Pacific. That's understandable because Japan controlled the western edge, the US the eastern edge, and the ocean was the route from one to the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe one or both of them of them could have benefited by employing their fleet and airpower elsewhere. And if &quot;elsewhere&quot; happened to be the same place, might they more logically meet at &quot;that place&quot;? And where might that be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan can use its battleships to capture the Soviet Far East, Australia, and other places. Its aircraft might do better service against Chinese armies than American ships. Soon they could all head for India, then to Africa to support the Germans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe the U.S. would prefer to take on the Japanese fleet in a war of &quot;mutually assured destruction&quot; in the north Pacific (particularly if the Japanese player is better than the German). That actually happened. But it might have delayed the invasion of Normandy by a year (four turns). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the US battle fleet should support Allied operations in the Mediterranean or Europe instead. And maybe that would lead to a direct clash with the Japanese fleet trying to do the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you rather fight the opposing fleet in the north Pacific, around Africa, or at another locale of your choice as Japan? The US?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T13:37:37.197" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T13:37:37.197" Title="Could Japan's and the US fleets meet on another battlefield than the North Pacific In Axis and Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3679" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:32:00.317" Score="1" ViewCount="2118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The better players I know don't build industrial complexes &quot;factories&quot; outside of their home countries. It costs 15 IPCs (five infantry) up front, and offers an uncertain return. Far better, they would argue, to &quot;stick to the knitting&quot; and &quot;go for the throat,&quot;--of a war in Europe, which is already &quot;overbuilt.&quot; What's worse, a factory in say India or Sinkiang can (and probably should be) captured by the Japanese, possibly giving them the momentum they need to win the war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other players argue in favor of e.g., a South African factory for Britain. A writer at Morrison Games likened to a two &quot;supertransports&quot; shuttling four zones between the UK and South Africa with two infantry on alternate turns, for similar costs in IPCs. Thus, factories do make the US and UK easier to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I (a newbie) don't mind some aspects of factories and dislike others. First, I think factories outside the main countries should be allowed to produce only infantry. I can imagine &quot;local levies&quot; of riflemen in India, China, or South Africa, but really can't imagine them producing tanks, ships or planes (and this was 70 years ago). And I wouldn't allow factories at all in landlocked territories like Sinkiang (which consists of Tibet and the Taklamakan desert. Camels, anyone?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, three out of the five countries already have two industrial complexes. Only the UK and Japan have only one. Perhaps we should have a limit of two &quot;factories&quot; per country, meaning that only the UK and Japan can build new ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &quot;good&quot; players don't like factories and intermediate players do, are factories necessary to the game? And if &quot;unnecessary,&quot; should they be permitted anyway? With or without modifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T13:40:50.650" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:40:50.650" Title="Should We Eliminate or Modify the &quot;Factory Rule&quot; In Axis and Allies?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31" CreationDate="2011-06-04T19:45:57.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by playing with &quot;strong&quot; (or at least stronger) players if you can. You'll get whipped, but at least you'll learn some of their &quot;typical&quot; moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have served an &quot;apprenticeship,&quot; then look for opponents close to your own strength. Try to beat them with the techniques you have learned from others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-04T19:45:57.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3663" CreationDate="2011-06-04T20:29:19.180" Score="7" ViewCount="3131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my (imperfect) understanding of the &quot;law,&quot; it means that my partnership should bid up to the same level as the number of trumps. For instance, with four trumps over my partner's five card major, I could raise his bid to three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I was taught to use a combination of trumps and points. Thus, we'd want to bid four spades with 26 points and eight trumps, or with 23 points and nine trumps, or with 20 points and ten trumps. So why the &quot;law?'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the opponents' (theoretical) trump suit also figures into this equation. How do I count for their &quot;trumps?&quot; And once I've done so, how do I combine their trumps and mine into a &quot;law&quot; calculation? Why would I do this anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T01:50:10.460" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T17:03:10.633" Title="What is (Larry Cohen's) the &quot;Law of Total Tricks&quot; In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3697" CreationDate="2011-06-04T20:39:25.547" Score="1" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was inspired by this link, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jazclass.aust.com/bridge/br14.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jazclass.aust.com/bridge/br14.htm&lt;/a&gt; which required a five card suit with two honors, at least one of them a queen or higher, for a one-level overcall. Hence, QTxxx was acceptable, but not Qxxxx or JTxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation of this rule is that you need five cards in a suit (headed by two honors) for a one level overcall, and six cards in a suit (headed by two honors) for a two level overcall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another rule I've heard is that the number of honors plus the number of cards in a suit ought to at least equal the number of tricks. Marty Bergen, at least, in &quot;Points, Schmoints&quot; would allow a one level overcall (seven tricks) with four cards in a suit if there are three honors. Likewise, he and his partner, Larry Cohen, would allow a two level overcall (eight tricks) with a five card suit if it were headed by three honors. They would, of course, want two honors (however defined), for one and two level overcalls with five and six cards in the suit respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules that most experts agree on regarding overcalls? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5962" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T14:03:32.710" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T14:03:32.710" Title="What are rules for an overcall that have wide acceptance?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-06-17T06:34:29.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2011-06-05T01:26:40.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to go straight to the manufacturer, Tom Jolly has another current and good list of sources at &lt;a href=&quot;http://beach.silcom.com/~tomjolly/design2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beach.silcom.com/~tomjolly/design2.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1391" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T01:26:40.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3660" CreationDate="2011-06-05T07:37:22.393" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Law of total tricks is an &lt;em&gt;empirical&lt;/em&gt; law which states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If opponents play the contract with their best suit (with A cards) as trumps, and they can make x tricks, and you play the contract in your best suit (with B cards) as trumps and you can make y tricks, then A + B = x + y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was first proposed by Jean-Rene Vernes in a bridge world &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeworld.com/default.asp?d=article_sampler&amp;amp;f=samltt.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; and made popular by Larry Cohen in his book: &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0963471503&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;To Bid or not to Bid: The Law of Total Tricks&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the law is to decide whether to play or defend and the level to play, when &lt;em&gt;both sides are bidding&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;code&gt;i.e. it is more useful in competitive auctions.&lt;/code&gt;  Trying to apply it in constructive auctions (where opponents haven't bid) does not make much sense. (Of course, when you are raising partner with a weak hand, as a preempt, you are kind of using the law in advance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a simple example: Say you hold xx, Kxxx, QJx, Txxx, playing IMPS, non-vul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose partner opens 1 Heart (showing 5+ cards), RHO overcalls 1 Spade. You bid 2 Hearts and LHO bids 2S, which is passed around to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now assuming opponents have 8 spades between them, if you assume the law, then there are 8+9 = 17 total tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now suppose 2S is making exactly. Then by the law, it means you can make 3H.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now suppose 2S is making 9 tricks. Then by the law, 3H is at most down 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now suppose 2S is down 1. Then by the law, you make 10 tricks in hearts!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, you are better off bidding 3H (even if doubled, non-vul) as opposed to letting them play in 2S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the law is based on empirical evidence, and there are many adjustments that need to be made, which you can find in Larry Cohen's book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the flip-side, there is a book by Mike Lawrence: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.michaelslawrence.com/Products/law2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I Fought the Law of Total Tricks&lt;/a&gt; which says that the law might actually not be as useful as people think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-01-10T04:28:12.863" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T04:28:12.863" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3670" CreationDate="2011-06-05T13:17:11.147" Score="7" ViewCount="1615" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, I created a modern Diplomacy &quot;takeoff&quot; game (with a new name to be determined). The five &quot;countries&quot; are U.S., Russia, China, Europe and the Middle East. The pieces are fleets (F), armies (A) and air squadrons (S), and the object is to capture &quot;population centers.&quot; There are limited nuclear capabilities. The time is the present. Otherwise it plays much like the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I go about trying to get it &quot;produced?&quot; Would you play it if it were produced?&#xA;And any suggestions for the new name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T19:53:14.953" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T00:27:48.957" Title="How Would I Get A Modern Diplomacy -&quot;Like&quot; Game Produced?" Tags="|diplomacy|game-development|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3608" CreationDate="2011-06-05T13:36:42.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been exploring a Brazilian-based U.S. strategy. En route to Africa (initally)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turn 1, head the two fighters toward South Africa (if the UK builds a factory there), landing in--Brazil. (The fighter from the West Coast will need to pay a 3 IPC penalty for violating Colombian-Venezuelan airspace.) Send the bomber to the UK (for strategic bombing missions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build a new bomber on the U.S. east coast and factory in Brazil, plus one infantry. (The remaining 3 IPCs pay for violating neutrality.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turn two, send the fighters to protect South Africa, and fly the newly built bomber from the East Coast to Brazil. Build a &quot;package&quot; of one transport and two infantry using Brazil's &quot;allowance&quot; of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turn three, use the infantry and transport for an amphibious attack on an occupied African territory, supported by the bomber in Brazil. Build another &quot;package&quot; for a similar attack on a more northerly African territory in turn 4. U.S. and U.K should have regained most of Africa by turn 5, especially after the U.S. lands the bomber somewhere in Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Producing 14 IPC &quot;packages&quot; in Brazil turns 2-4 leaves room for similar packages sent to aid Russia further north, or maybe for more aircraft or ship builds for an assault in Europe. Plus the fact that &quot;spare&quot; transports from Brazil can be moved north as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By turn 7, the game should be well in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T14:08:45.560" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T14:08:45.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3681" CreationDate="2011-06-05T14:03:24.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1729" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies, the U.S. starts with the largest number of IPCs, and also has the furthest to go to reach the main battlefields. These conditions both suggest the use of strategies using (expensive) air units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One strategy is build bombers. The U.S. can spare 30 IPCs to build two a turn. Send them to the UK (one turn) for the strategic bombing of Germany. With six bombers, there will be a loss of one per turn (on average) to anti-aircraft. The surviving five planes will average 3.5 hits on average, or 17.5 IPCs in total. Since a bomber costs 15 IPCs, this is a profitable strategy. And it hurts Germany's economy even if they get some IPCs from Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second strategy is to build 2-3 fighters a turn, and fly them to the UK, then to Karelia or wherever they are most needed in Russia. Enough of them will stop a German attack cold. Or the U.S. could use a &quot;hybrid&quot; strategy, build one bomber and one fighter per turn for a combination of both. Then spend 5 IPCs a turn on tech research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tech discoveries could alter the equation, especially if they were jet fighters or heavy bombers (using one of the &quot;two roll&quot; modifications &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/3643/675&quot;&gt;#1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3643/in-axis-and-allies-can-heavy-bombers-be-tamed/3645#3645&quot;&gt;#2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, not the standard three-roll rules). Perhaps I'd use the fighter strategy if I discovered the one and the bomber strategy for the other (some versions of the game don't allow you to choose which tech to research).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you use any of these strategies without tech enhancement? With tech enhancement, especially &quot;modified&quot; heavy bombers? Or is the shuck-shuck strategy still superior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T16:50:23.037" Title="Can the U.S. Open With an Air-based Strategy in Allies and Axis?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|openings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3696" CreationDate="2011-06-05T16:53:37.917" Score="1" ViewCount="6413" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, in the &quot;precision&quot; bidding system in bridge, you open one club with 16+ points (a greater than minimum opening hand), while all the other &quot;one&quot; level bids show 13-15 (a minimum). That includes 1NT, making it a &quot;weak&quot; 1 NT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was taught that &quot;higher bids mean higher points.&quot; Precision blatantly violates this rule. Besides, I don't like the &quot;weak&quot; 1 NT because it's too hard to have all suits adequately covered with 12-14 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel the system has merits, what are they? Or do you see a lack of merit like I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T13:11:52.993" LastActivityDate="2018-12-09T18:29:28.163" Title="Why Do People Use &quot;Precision&quot; Bidding in Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3704" CreationDate="2011-06-05T17:01:48.933" Score="3" ViewCount="3472" Body="&lt;p&gt;One advantage of a &quot;pre-empt&quot; is quite clear: You take two levels of bidding away from your opponents with a &quot;three&quot; bid. But could that be cutting off your nose to spite your face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I had something like KQxxxxx, and a side queen (I forget how the other suits were distributed but was told it didn't matter). My partner was disappointed I didn't &quot;preempt&quot; (in &quot;third&quot; seat). My response was &quot;with seven points?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that people often bid three of a suit with seven cards and this little. Sometimes even less, particularly when non-vulnerable vs. vulnerable. In its extreme version, the mantra is &quot;with any seven (suited) cards.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't this risky? What if we're doubled and only make three or four tricks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T00:58:18.183" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T12:48:36.453" Title="Why Do People &quot;Pre-empt&quot; With Seven Of A Suit In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3665" CreationDate="2011-06-05T17:08:44.457" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few immediate thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;from a game play standpoint where are the &quot;BRIC&quot; countries (Brazil, India, Indonesia etc) or are you designing the game to largely involve conflict between the 5 powers you cited in Africa, South America etc? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;from a &quot;how do you get a game produced&quot; there are many routes. An increasingly popular route would be to go independent - many games are starting with Kickstarter campaigns (where the supporters get the first copies of the game) which has the advantage of helping you gauge the actual market interest and demand. In the case of a modern update to an older game you may have to determine what, if any, patents or other IP rights you might have to license from the original (if any at all) and thus may have to deal with the original publisher (or who ever now owns the rights to the game). Since Diplomacy is a fairly old game it is likely that any patents on the game board etc have long since expired.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a final suggestion, Diplomacy has had a very long standing tradition of being played online (via email, via websites etc) could you make a digital, online version of your game before you make any investment into a physical game (with all the production costs &amp;amp; distribution issues that involves?). A digital game, especially if you can attract a core of engaged players, likely would also help you iterate on the game design and evolve the gameplay and game balance based on many rounds of playtesting. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally while there are game players here on Stackexchange I assume you do know about the very active and engaged board game community of BoardGameGeek? I'd strongly suggest reaching out to serious Diplomacy fans there and at reaching out to independent game publishers both on BGG and via their Twitter and websites. I'd also suggest subscribing to great game design podcasts such as Richard Garfield's great podcast (and there are many other board game related podcasts that feature long interviews with game designers and publishers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T17:08:44.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-06-05T17:12:50.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, if you have only seven points as in the example hand, your opponents will have the preponderance of strength.  Pre-empts are designed to eat up the bidding room that your opponents could otherwise use to zone in on the right contract.  If, as it sometimes happens, your partner has the strength  instead, the pre-empt is still good, as it paints a very accurate picture of your hand that your partner will use to determine the right contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get doubled and go down three or four, think about what your opponents will have.  They will usually have missed a slam, and your result will compare favorably.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will happen, but it is very rare that your pre-empt will be a total disaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T17:12:50.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2011-06-05T17:21:19.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thrust behind the precision 1C is that it keeps the rest of the one level open for descriptive bids.  Their argument is that the standard bids used to show strength (jump raises and so forth) take up too much room in the bidding, room that could be used by you and your partner to hone in on exact strength, distribution, etc.  The downside to this is that it keeps that low level open to your opponents, and many strong players will do whatever they can to take that bidding room that the Precision system would otherwise use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did once play a weak NT system (outside of Precision), and I thought it worked very well.  You really didn't need to worry about having suits covered.  Even if you were left in 1NT and your opponents could run a suit before you could get a word in, you could usually still find 7 tricks, or at worst go down one.  Plus, your partner knows exactly what you have when you bid 1NT, and will take you out if he has a oddly shaped hand that will not play well in NT.  It also acts as a pre=empt for opposing bidding.  A good number of players have no real idea how to overcall weak NT openings, and you've taken away the entire one level, so they would have to start on the two level to try and find a fit, and may end up too high too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="1299" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T20:49:03.740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T20:49:03.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2011-06-05T18:49:26.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The center of the board is its crossroads, much like the center square in tic-tac-toe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the standpoint of chess, once you control it, you (usually) limit your opponents' options, including his power to attack you. That's a major benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to attack your opponent with that advantage, study some tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way is to attack a target with all your pieces, force your opponent to defend, then move some of your pieces to a different target, probably on the other side of the board. You can move faster than your opponent because you control the center, so you'll &quot;hit&quot; the second target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good exposition of these ideas can be found in &quot;Chess Fundamentals&quot; by former world champion Jose R. Capablanca. It is an &quot;old&quot; book written by someone born in the 19th century, but it taught me how to play chess years ago. It can also be found online under Googlebooks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T18:49:26.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3698" CreationDate="2011-06-05T21:10:14.633" Score="7" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the &quot;Reign of Terror&quot; event, do you lose one worker from the worker pool or the population bank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1392" LastEditorUserId="1392" LastEditDate="2011-06-05T21:24:58.540" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T20:08:52.063" Title="Reign of Terror on Through the Ages" Tags="|through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3675" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-05T21:59:55.333" Score="2" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Standard American,&quot; I must open a major with &lt;code&gt;65432&lt;/code&gt; while refraining from opening a major with &lt;code&gt;AKQJ.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, there are five card majors that are too weak to be opened and there four card majors that are too strong NOT to be opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've created a system where &quot;An extra trump is worth a king,&quot; and the minimum opening standard is Qxxxx. Thus, xxxxxx &quot;maps&quot; into Kxxxx, and qualifies. xxxxx &amp;lt; Qxxxx and doesn't qualify. KQxx &quot;maps&quot; into Qxxxx and qualifies, but not KJxx, which &quot;maps&quot; into Jxxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure Standard American is right for me. Are there any established systems (other than Standard American) that operate along principles similar to mine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T17:15:54.357" LastActivityDate="2023-01-30T07:45:35.913" Title="Are there &quot;established&quot; systems where &quot;Five Card Majors&quot; isn't a strict rule?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3678" CreationDate="2011-06-05T22:11:31.093" Score="3" ViewCount="1955" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think that too many people overcall. Meaning that we need a penalty double for it in bridge. But the modern fashion seems to be for &quot;negative doubles&quot; over overcalls. These seem to mean, &quot;I don't like your suit, and I don't want to defend the opponents' suit, therefore I'm strong in the remaining two suits. At least relative to my 8-10 points. Meaning that it largely precludes the penalty double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some reluctance (and with certain partners), I used a double that means, I like the &quot;remaining&quot; major suit(s). (I hate minors.) It could be either negative or penalty, depending on the circumstances. Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Club (You) 1 Diamond (Opponent) Double (me). I like one, possibly both majors. Negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Heart (You) 2 Clubs (Opponent) Double (me). I wanted to bid one spade, but 2 clubs shut me out. Negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Heart (You) 1 Spade (Opponent) Double (me). I like one of the majors (and not yours, because I didn't raise, with Qxx or better). Penalty. (I have AKxxx or QjTxx and hope you'll pass me out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I stick to penalty doubles? Are negative doubles so compelling that I have to &quot;switch?&quot; Or is it possible to use a &quot;blend&quot; strategy like the one above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T01:00:34.423" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T16:50:21.747" Title="Why Do Modern Players Use &quot;Negative Doubles&quot; In Bridge" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3675" CreationDate="2011-06-05T22:27:10.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you open a five card major, you're not promising anything about the strength of your suit, you are simply telling your partner that you have five cards in that suit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you do not win tricks only on strength, you win them on length as well.  Even if you open a raggedy five card suit, and end up playing in it after getting you're partner's support, you will win extra tricks because no one else will have trumps after you draw them. On the other hand, if you wind up in a 4-3 fit because partner raised your four card open, things can be difficult if one of your opponents also has 4 or more trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember that just because you can't open AKQJ of a major doesn't mean you can never mention that suit.  Open a minor, and rebid your major.  That tells your partner that you have four of the major, and if he also has four then you've found your fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be hard to swallow, so I recommend building some example hands. Give yourself five lousy trump and an opening hand, give your partner three random trump and enough to raise you to game, and see how the hand plays out with random opponent hands.  Likewise, give yourself AKQJ of a major, your partner the same three random trump and game values, and get a feel for which hands are easier and which hands are harder to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T22:27:10.413" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3676" CreationDate="2011-06-05T22:36:30.717" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is - use whatever your partner and you are comfortable with using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is - the penalty double at the one or two levels rarely works out the way you think.  Either their partner will switch to a different suit (where you may not want to double for penalties again), they will SOS redouble for takeout (again to a suit that you may not want to double), or they will play in the doubled contract.  You'll find they'll make this contract a maddening percentage of the time, or only be off one.  The times that you have the strength to set them a large number at such a small contract, you could have bid game or slam yourself and make at least as much, if not a lot more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why people really don't penalty double at the low levels anymore.  In competitive auctions, it's much more useful to use the double to find a fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T22:36:30.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3658" CreationDate="2011-06-05T23:30:59.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If &quot;good&quot; players don't like factories and intermediate players do, are factories necessary to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd classify myself an intermediate player and would say that the only country that really has any business building factories is Japan, and then not until the late game. The most common early game factory builds are usually mistakes, at least when playing against stronger players. A skilled Japan player will take out the Indian or Sinkiang factory in due time. And a skilled German player will have enough manpower to neuter a South African or (gasp) Egyptian factory if it is built too soon in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, allowing no factories for either sides is a common Axis &amp;amp; Allies variation, which I noted in my question&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1032/recommended-axis-allies-alternative-rules-variations&quot;&gt;, Recommended Axis &amp;amp; Allies alternative rules / variations?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played this variation a number of times and I've found it to shift the strategy of the game a bit. &lt;strong&gt;Without doubt, it affects Japan the most.&lt;/strong&gt; Without the aid of factories, Japan must ferry man and material into Asia from the homeland. Since each transport can only carry a single tank, this forces Japan to go with a less than optimal infantry/tank mix. Moreover, it makes the battle of the Pacific more paramount, because if Japan loses her navy - or even suffers a heavy set back - her flow of troops to mainland Asia is impaired, if not neutered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The no factory variation foists a dilemma upon the USA strategy - does the US still go full steam ahead with the &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; strategy, focusing on aiding her Allies in nixing Germany first, or does she use her IPCs to build up a navy in the Pacific with the intent of quelling the Japanese flotilla?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, to answer your question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If &quot;good&quot; players don't like factories and intermediate players do, are factories necessary to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are certainly not &lt;em&gt;necessary&lt;/em&gt;, but they make the game much harder for Japan without them. Japan's must have a prepared strategy and be prepared to execute on that strategy deftly. Little mistakes - like not correctly balancing transports with the number of troops in mainland Japan - can be fatal. Therefore, I think a no factories option is an interesting variation if the Japan player is a strong one, otherwise eliminating them presents an uphill battle for Japan that she might not be able to overcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And if &quot;unnecessary,&quot; should they be permitted anyway? With or without modifications?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other units in the game that are unnecessary, no? How necessary are submarines, for instance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of factory variations, the standard rules allow the factories that exist at the start of the game to churn out as many units as can be afforded, whereas factories built after the start can only output as many units as the territory's IPC value. Moreover, factories cannot be moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your consideration, here are three factory variations. Personally, I'm not much of a fan of either, but both do color the game quite differently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initial factories outside of the capital territory can only produce as many units as their IPC value.&lt;/strong&gt; This has the most pointed effect on Russia, as her factory in Karelia can only output three units per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Factories, like AA guns and other units, may be moved during the non-combat phase.&lt;/strong&gt; A moved factory could not output any units this turn &lt;em&gt;or next&lt;/em&gt;, and would have its output restricted to the IPC value of its new territory once units can be produced. This option allows the UK to move its Indian factory out of harm's way (if needed), but on the flip-side it allows Japan to march factories closer to the Russian capital.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When an attacker successfully invades a territory with a factory, he may decide to destroy the factory.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food for thought...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T23:30:59.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2011-06-05T23:40:11.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because infantry are cheap and defend at 2, the best strategy is to build up a wall of infantry. You need boots on the ground to hold a territory in Axis &amp;amp; Allies. It's axiomatic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By following an air-focused strategy, the US is going against the grain of the game and such a strategy is bound to end in failure. Without US support, the UK must focus entirely on rebuilding her navy and building it so that it can withstand future German air attacks. Russia must spend all of her energy on defending her Western line. What does this result in? A fast and powerful Japanese expansion and a defenseless German push into Afria. Goodbye East Asia. Goodbye India. Goodbye Africa. Goodbye Oceania.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end you will have a land-locked UK and a weak Russian Western front. Germany can twiddle her thumbs, keeping WE, Germany, and EE well defended while Japan's economy soars and soon is able to overtake Russia from the east. Once that happens, it's curtains for the Allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, I've seen the heavy bomber tactic you mentioned used by a particular player in a handful of games over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/Games/WW2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GamesByEmail.com&lt;/a&gt;. All of the games were five player games, and each time the Allies lost (and convincingly). Granted, this may be more of a reflection on the skill levels of all five players involved, but I do think that an air-based approach is a mistake - shuck-shuck all the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-06-05T23:40:11.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2011-06-06T01:34:17.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The US can't afford to waste money (and time) building planes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trap the Allies fall into when considering an airpower-based strategy for the United States is to evaluate the strategy on its own merits instead of by comparing it to the alternative strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question points out that a large bomber force can do more IPCs in damage than it would expect in AA-gun losses--which is all true. However, it neglects three important considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It takes too long to implement.&lt;/strong&gt; The US can only afford two planes a turn and starts with one bomber. This means a 6-bomber fleet takes three turns to build and it isn't available until the Combat Phase of turn 4. Furthermore, it will take an average of 15 IPCs per turn to maintain this force in the face of AA losses--about half the US economic output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all the US has been doing until turn 4 is build bombers then the game is probably already over (a fait accompli if not an actual economic victory). Also remember that because one bomber a turn is needed just to maintain the force at 6, the US can only afford 2 transports OR 5 infantry per turn afterwards. Granted, a smaller force can attack in the prior turns, but the net IPC swing is too small to hurt Germany, and any AA hits set back the strategy by a half turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The strategy can collapse in the face of bad rolls.&lt;/strong&gt; One turn of good AA rolling by Germany, or a multi-bomber run that only does a few IPCs of total damage, and this strategy is defeated. In contrast, the typical shuck-shuck strategy can't really be defeated by bad luck. The naval force the US and UK can set up by the end of turn 2 can't be attacked by Germany without decimating their air force, and deterrence of German aggression is the entire point of shuttling a mass of Allied infantry into Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good players tend to shy from luck-based strategies, believing that they will eventually win a game decided by skill but could lose one decided by luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The opportunity cost of building fighters is too high.&lt;/strong&gt; This point has some overlap with the first, but it is a distinct argument. The key metric is not how many IPCs a bomber force can destroy compared to how much it costs to maintain. Strategies have to be compared against each other. The goal is not to bleed Germany for more IPCs than the US has to spend, it's to use the US IPCs to their greatest effect. Bombers are just not as useful as a fleet of five or six transports dropping off 10 infantry a turn in Finland, France, or Algeria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Lastly, to quickly discuss the fighter-heavy variant that was also proposed.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, a stack of fighters is pretty dominating on defense, but a stack of infantry four times as high is more dominating: they will do more damage on average, are cheaper to replace, and can actually occupy territory if necessary. They are slightly less mobile, but the battle lines in Europe move slowly anyway (when they move at all), and the consequences are much less if some get caught alone in a territory because the UK and Russia decided to bail on a lost cause just before Germany's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So given how much less effective a plane-based strategy is than the shuck-shuck, I would not choose it. Even if some good tech rolls made it occasionally a winner, lots of times the tech won't work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'll take the eventual sure-thing over a long-shot any day.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T01:34:17.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2011-06-06T03:48:50.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing Japan and want to meet American on a field other than the mid-Pacific, &lt;strong&gt;the first step is having a fleet, and the easiest way to keep you fleet is to stay away from Pearl Harbor.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Japan, I rarely attack Pearl Harbor. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/2564/675&quot;&gt;Many seem to consider this sacrilege&lt;/a&gt;; however, I've found this opens up options for me as Japan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The best case&lt;/strong&gt;, if Japan attacks Pearl, is that it wipes out the US fleet and doesn't lose much. That's obviously good, but even in this scenario, the opportunity cost is high: it requires the use of one if not two aircraft that could have been used in Asia--setting back Japan one if not two territories on the first turn. Having taken these territories would mean a few more IPCs, but more importantly can make the construction of Allied factories in mainland Asia very unattractive. Lastly, the power at Pearl can't be used to threaten India or to help take the Soviet Far East on turn 2. Japan's focus needs to be on mainland Asia, and they should only dabble elsewhere if they have units with nothing else to do. The navy, on turn 1, has better things to do than attack the US at Pearl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Worst case&lt;/strong&gt;, the US can get lucky and do a lot of damage to Japan's navy, or worse still, it could force a retreat and survive. If this happens Japan is in trouble. They are severely hampered in taking Asian coastal territories and the US can use it's fleet to threaten any transports built to ferry troops from the islands to Asia (practically forcing a factory-based strategy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With no Pearl attack&lt;/strong&gt;, Japan has a strong fleet and air force that can be used in Asia on turn 1, and that is left in position to attack anywhere on the coast on turn 2. The only downside is that I've left the American fleet intact. But is that really a downside? &lt;strong&gt;Consider what the US can do with it's intact Pacific fleet&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They can send it to the Atlantic&lt;/strong&gt;, except the Atlantic is turns away; by the time it arrives the US and UK will already have a fleet to big to be attacked by Germany. The battleship isn't even useful in amphibious assaults unless France is being attacked, which is idiotic as long as there are too few ships to send armor (air power is at risk from AA guns and from not being able to retreat and should only be used in France when it can be taken with little risk). As Japan, this strategy does not have me shaking in my boots, and as Germany I'm shaking either way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They can keep it moored.&lt;/strong&gt; If they don't move it, then it's not a threat. It's like the fleet was destroyed, except that I didn't have to risk my fleet to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They can move it towards Japan&lt;/strong&gt;, except that my fleet will be consolidated, and is bigger, and is on defense. Plus, because of the distance I'll have one-turn of warning and can just buy a sub or two to turn the odds even more in my favor. Direct attack is stupid for America to try. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They can take it South to pick off islands.&lt;/strong&gt; This is probably the most effective option, and one I sometimes use as the US when Japan doesn't Pearl me. The downside is that the US only has one Atlantic transport (and can't afford to let up on Germany to build more in that theater). So they can use the infantry from Wake and Hawaii and the one-shot on the battleship to try and pick off some islands. They might even take a few while Japan is too busy on the mainland to care much. But it takes turns to get into position, it is only a swing of a couple of IPCs, and then can be easily taken back by Japan in the mid-to-late-game. Plus, when that battleship doesn't hit it doesn't take much luck for the defender to knock out one of the two infantry, which can't be replaced because America is so far from home. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So assuming I've convinced you that Japan can forgo Pearl...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they have solid control of the coast, Japan's carrier, battleships and subs are no longer useful near the homeland, giving them lots of options for other places to take on the US:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attack Alaska.&lt;/strong&gt; The US typically puts very little there, so it can easily be taken by two battleships and two infantry. It can be done from the Japan sea zone so is often not anticipated, and if the US is using shuck-shuck, their forces are all in the Eastern US and Canada, where they can't immediately counter-attack (giving Japan time to reinforce or retreat). Shuck-shuck requires careful calibration of transport capacity and buys, so forcing the US to divert units to re-take Alaska messes with their mojo. It's only worth 2 IPCs per turn, but it really screws with America. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take the British South Pacific.&lt;/strong&gt; Also ripe for the taking are Australia and New Zealand. Slightly further away than Alaska and risky for the same reason that makes it hard for the US to take Indonesia: a couple good defensive rolls and Japan is out of infantry. However, Japan has the unique advantage near-by replacement infantry on the islands. The Australians and Kiwis are only worth a few IPCs per turn, but the UK has no feasible means of taking them back so it's a swing of 6 IPCs per turn for the rest of the game. It adds up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Africa.&lt;/strong&gt; Africa is closer to India that Japan often realizes, and a few troops there are often all that's necessary to help Germany hold on an extra turn or two--or better yet, it can force the Allies to skip a turn of reinforcing Finland and provide some breathing room for Germany in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;We'll always have Rio.&lt;/strong&gt; Typically I only do this after taking New Zealand, but only two moves away is Panama--the Alaska of the South. American tanks in Eastern US can't reach immediately and taking Panama disrupts the shuck-shuck. If Japan manages to save 3 IPCs they can waltz South through Columbia to take Brazil. They don't have to hold any of these territories, just mess with America. Plus, if they get really lucky, America will over-react and split their fleet to bring capital ships South to deal with Japan. But they have to take Panama first and if done too aggressively, this could leave the North Atlantic Allied transports under-defended enough for German attack. At this late point in the game it would be worth sacrificing the German air force to destroy the transports, as this likely buys enough time for Japan to finish off Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;So Japan has good options for taking the fight to America, but in my experience the opportunities rely on the non-canonical choice to leave the American fleet alone.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T13:30:13.897" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T13:30:13.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3601" CreationDate="2011-06-06T07:32:45.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A board game that is much easier than D&amp;amp;D and still has somewhat of a dungeon questing feel is Thunderstone. I enjoy playing it with friends quite a bit as many of them do not want to play a full blown rpg. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1393" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T07:32:45.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3685" CreationDate="2011-06-06T08:50:10.103" Score="5" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wondered if someone could explain what properties define &quot;pyramid games&quot;?  Someone suggested that I have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/&quot;&gt;icehousegames.org&lt;/a&gt; but it's not clear to me from that site what are the the things that those games have in common.  (Obviously, I assume they involve at least some pieces that are shaped like pyramids, but there are lots of interesting features mentioned in the description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Icehouse&quot;&gt;Icehouse&lt;/a&gt; and it's not clear to me which (if any) of these are to be found in other games of that type.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T12:03:31.737" Title="What are pyramid games?" Tags="|icehouse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3684" CreationDate="2011-06-06T12:03:31.737" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only true property that these games share are that they all use one or more &quot;stashes&quot; (set of 15) of pyramids sold by the game company &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/whybuy/LooneyPyramids.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Looney Labs&lt;/a&gt;.  Given that the pieces themselves come in three sizes, they can be stacked on top of each other or nested inside of each other.  This, along with the fact that they are pointed, gives rise to a weak theme of directionality through the games, but really any game that has been created using these pieces can call themselves a pyramid game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fertile area of game development surrounding these pieces, so there is a large number of official and unofficial games played using these rules. Icehouse was the original, but really isn't that strong of a game and isn't a good indicator of how the pieces are usually used. I would suggest looking at a few of the old favorites to get a feel for the type and style of games the the pieces are involved in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Zendo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zendo&lt;/a&gt; - a game of inductive logic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Gnostica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gnostica&lt;/a&gt; - a game played using a tarot deck for a board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icehousegames.org/wiki/index.php?title=Volcano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Volcano&lt;/a&gt; - a game similar to Mancala&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T12:03:31.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3665" CreationDate="2011-06-06T13:38:01.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to discourage your work, but you should consider renaming it.  The Diplomacy hobby has long had a varient named 'modern':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Modern (Vincent Mous)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A ten-player variant that takes place&#xA;  in modern times on a modified map&#xA;  which contains the regions on the&#xA;  standard map plus a slightly larger&#xA;  portion of Western Asia and Northern&#xA;  Africa. Standard Diplomacy rules&#xA;  apply, along with special geography&#xA;  rules (e.g. canals and coasts) for a&#xA;  few of the provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/Online/variants3.html#m&quot;&gt;http://www.diplom.org/Online/variants3.html#m&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's different in concept, so the same name might be trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically of the hundreds of alternate maps only two have been sold commercially, back during the Avalon Hill days.  They were colonial and ancient -- neither sold well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to laud Diplomacy too much, but there seems to be a small subset of the Diplomacy community that's interested in variants.  Most of them (us) view the mapboard/rules as a framework for the negotiations and secondary to the real game.  The value of the tried and true mapboard is I can read a set of orders in a blink and know exactly what's happening w/o looking at the board.  Map variants take me out of the &quot;it's all about the relationships&quot; stage and throw be back into the &quot;can I move Fleet X to Y?&quot; zone that I left behind years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T13:38:01.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3688" CreationDate="2011-06-06T13:44:32.740" Score="9" ViewCount="2941" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing in a casual game of bridge, holding JTx of trumps, I &quot;falsecarded&quot; on the second trump lead with the J. Believing that he had drawn them, declarer stopped leading trumps.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, I trumped one of his tricks with the T. Declarer protested, saying that I should have followed &quot;in sequence.&quot; My partner agreed with him, but dummy just said sagely &quot;My partner forgot to count trumps.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't &quot;wrong&quot; was I, even though I was &quot;deceptive&quot;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I've been told that there are limits. For instance, is &quot;moodying&quot; allowed (act strong when weak, act weak when strong) even though this is a critical element of say, poker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T18:36:58.557" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T18:36:58.557" Title="In Bridge, Which Forms of Deception Are Ethical? Does This Include &quot;Moodying?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3687" CreationDate="2011-06-06T13:58:08.293" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Deception&quot; is a weird concept in bridge.  Just like in every game, there are forms that are ethical and forms that are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Falsecarding, as in your example, is perfectly fine.  Your opponent failed to count trumps correctly, and paid the price.  A similar, and perfectly valid strategy, is to play a high card instead of a low card when losing a trick as declarer to make the opponents think that you are now void in the suit, hoping that they will switch to a different suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Moodying&quot; is more of a gray area, and should probably be avoided.  Granted, any information that your opponents take from your tells is at their own peril, but if your partner could use any information that your tell gives away to his and your benefit, then your opponents could rightfully claim to have been wronged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very broadly speaking, deception is OK as long as you are deceiving everyone at the table, partner included.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T13:58:08.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3711" CreationDate="2011-06-06T14:13:31.253" Score="4" ViewCount="10449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Russian players like to send armies east. That is, to reinforce Allied outposts in Sinkiang and India. Maybe attack Manchuria on the first turn, if allowed. The theory is that Russia is strong enough to contain &quot;only.&quot; Germany, so the need is to prevent Japan from becoming a swing factor in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Russian players will launch spoiling attacks west as soon as allowed. Particularly in Norway, to open a window for Allied reinforcements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third strategy is &quot;hedgehog.&quot; Push all the infantry into Karelia and Caucasus (roughly 2 to 1 in favor of the former) pull all the planes and tanks into Moscow for counterattack, and a last ditch stand. Then build 8 infantry each turn for about five turns. Here, the big worry is Germany. Let the Allies take care of Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which strategy do you prefer? East? West? or &quot;Hedgehog?&quot; And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T19:12:41.163" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T12:54:15.267" Title="In Axis and Allies, Should Russia Head East, West, Or Stay Put in the Early Going?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4039" CreationDate="2011-06-06T15:02:10.533" Score="2" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most AA players have a preferred strategy. But not every player gets to go first. Meaning that the later going players may have to adjust their strategies, based on what has gone on before. Or do they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany: If Russia doesn't get to attack on the first turn, you (effectively) go first, and have your choice of Russia, Africa, or both. But suppose Russia gets aggressive (if allowed a first turn attack).  How would that affect your choice of target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UK: Germany can either go after you (in Africa) or Russia, or both. How, if at all, would those choices affect your opening moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan: The UK and Russia can go east (India, Sinkiang, Yakut etc.) or west (Africa, Norway). Does this affect your posture vis-a-vis the U.S. in the Pacific?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;US: You have your choice of Atlantic or Pacific strategies. Is this choice affected by foregoing moves, caliber of players, or other considerations? Or do you just use an Atlantic &quot;shuck-shuck?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia: You're &quot;last&quot; if you can't attack on the first move. Is Germany or Japan the more dangerous enemy? Under what cirumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T20:44:51.020" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:19:24.463" Title="In Axis and Allies, When (and How) Would You Adjust Your Opening Strategy?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3687" CreationDate="2011-06-06T18:29:16.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see anything deceitful or unethical in your play.  The important thing is that your play &lt;em&gt;fooled your partner as much as your opponent(s)&lt;/em&gt; - obviously, in this case, as your partner was angry that you stepped outside of your system!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that your opponent was  perfectly entitled to ask your partner about your system - does your partner's play here usually imply that he is now out of trumps?  And your partner should answer honestly.  The only &quot;unethical&quot; behaviour would be if you had some kind of prearranged system where, let's say just for the sake of bizarre argument, you always drop your highest trump under the opponents' first round of drawing trumps.  If you knew this to be the case but lied about it when questioned by your opponents, that simply wouldn't be on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge would be a much poorer game without deception!  But it can never be a carefully planned deception between a partnership - it must always be purely improvised in the course of the game, without communication with one's partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T18:29:16.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2011-06-06T18:56:20.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Precision is - with some caveats - an absolutely brilliant system, and one that everyone should try out at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to play Bridge with, not to put too fine a point on it, a group with players of various different levels of skill.  Playing with standard systems, some of them would just not &lt;em&gt;get it&lt;/em&gt; quite a lot of the time.  Presented with anything other than a balanced 1NT hand, they just wouldn't really know how to bid it, much less respond, or deal with an overcall!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of Precision is that it takes a lot of the mystery out of at least the early game.  A junior player can't fail to alert you to their strong hand if they are in first seat with 20 HCP.  Likewise, they tend to have less trouble finding the correct suit and level, because of Precision's tightly circumscribed bids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Precision better than other systems in the long run?  No, because once you have a genuine feel for the game you don't really need a system with so little room to maneuver.  Your talent and ability to think quickly will fill in any games in a looser, more economical system.  But don't underestimate Precision's value to beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your problems with the 1C opening bid to indicate a strong hand, you might as well say you have problems with conventional bids in general.  Conventional bids are shortcuts to success, taking the place of bids that would otherwise have little value.  1C is a terrible bid, in a literal sense - I have not especially good points, no good majors, and strength in clubs?  Well, that's not going to get me very far, really, is it?  Unless I have 80 below the line or something.  It's almost never useful in actual practice though.  So being able to indicate a strong hand &lt;em&gt;while retaining a whole level of bidding space&lt;/em&gt; is usually much better.  It gives you an extra bid and response to accurately describe your hand to partner, and reach that slam that a 16+HCP hand is often capable of making!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T18:56:20.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3661" CreationDate="2011-06-06T19:56:21.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do a lot of &quot;weak jump overcalls&quot;.  That is to say, if my opponents open with 1H or 1S, and I have 6 clubs or 6 diamonds, and 6-9 HCP, I would invariably jump to 3C or 3D respectively.  (Well, I say invariably, but vulnerability and points below the line would actually be taken seriously into consideration.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 7 or 8 clubs I might jump to the 4 or 5 level.  I'm that serious about overcalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all based on the same principle as my favoured, weak, 1NT system.  It's better to get in there with a balanced hand and 12 HCP than it is to give the opponents all the bidding space they need.  Even though you will sometimes get severely doubled and go down in flames.  It's a risk you have to take, when quite often average players just have no idea to deal with aggressive overcalling, and you can totally take apart their game accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always amazed when I play online with a randomly picked-up partner, and they chastise me for weak overcalls and general interferential play, when the alternative is to let the opponents bid an easy 1NT-3NT or something and take the match without any difficulty.  Going down and giving points to your opponents is not a crime against Bridge play - as long as you still have a chance of coming back and taking the match!  (I will agree, though, that keeping on overbidding and refusing to let the rubber end, when you are thousands of penalty points down already, is very irritating.  I assume the people who do this are mostly obnoxious kids...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T19:56:21.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3674" CreationDate="2011-06-06T20:08:52.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 12 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/5h68nqannh/Through_the_Ages_-_English_Rules.pdf?&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, it states the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a card says you must &quot;decrease&quot;&#xA;  your population, you return 1 yellow&#xA;  token from your &lt;em&gt;Unused Workers Pool&lt;/em&gt;.&#xA;  If you have no &lt;em&gt;Unused Workers&lt;/em&gt;, you&#xA;  must remove (and return to your&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Yellow Bank&lt;/em&gt;) a &lt;em&gt;Worker&lt;/em&gt; from one of your cards. Do not forget to adjust&#xA;  your indicators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you must lose a worker from your Pool (or one of your cards if no workers in your pool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T20:08:52.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2011-06-06T20:18:39.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the proviso that I'm not personally a player of Warmachine, I found this link to the Privateer Press forums where the truly knowledgeable people hang out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?19636-Dawnguard-Scyir&quot;&gt;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?19636-Dawnguard-Scyir&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite close to the top of this thread, a chap who seems to know what he's doing says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now the Scyir isn't a weapon master&#xA;  but has flank, so in order to get the&#xA;  three dice on damage (4 if you charge)&#xA;  you need to have a jack be in melee&#xA;  range. So the jack has to get in melee&#xA;  before the Scyir activates. But if the&#xA;  Jack activates before the Scyir it's&#xA;  drive is useless as it will not need&#xA;  to re-roll nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that &quot;three dice on damage (4 if you charge)&quot; answers your question - a charging flank attack does indeed deal 4 dice damage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can make out, multiple instances of flank don't stack, but there's no problem getting a bonus both from flanking and charging...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T20:18:39.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3701" CreationDate="2011-06-06T20:21:55.973" Score="21" ViewCount="6563" Body="&lt;p&gt;In FFG's &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt; boardgame, can routed units be supported?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a recent game, one player (the aggressor) attacked another (the defender) but was defeated. His routed units had to retreat into the area they started from and were turned on their sides - exhausted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defender had a March order on the newly-victorious units, and used it to attack the routed units in their original area. But the aggressor had an adjacent supporting unit, and a third party did as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed to me (I was neither the aggressor, the defender, nor the interested third party) that units have to be able to give battle in order to be supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we couldn't find a rule that said specifically either way. We found rules that said that battles ensued when one player moved units into an area with another player's units already in it. We found rules that said that routed units have no combat strength and must be lost if they would be forced to retreat again while exhausted. But nothing specifically relating to whether an exhausted force can be supported and therefore have a combat strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T16:18:53.227" Title="Supporting Routed Units in A Game of Thrones" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2011-06-06T20:37:57.077" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the players in the game in question just sent me this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/98106/supporting-routed-units&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/98106/supporting-routed-units&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Routed units have no combat strength. They still count towards a player s Supply limit, but if a routed unit is forced to retreat again in the same game turn, it is automatically destroyed. Routed units may never be taken as casualties in battle. Routed units may not participate in a march, even if a March order token is resolved at their new location. After all March orders have been resolved for the turn, return all routed units to their normal upright position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the accepted interpretation is that routed units may give battle (with a strength of zero) and may be supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2019-05-15T16:18:53.227" LastActivityDate="2019-05-15T16:18:53.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-06-06T21:10:15.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia page is actually really good; I don't think I could put it any more economically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preempt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preempt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially, check out the graph on that page, which shows how many points you lose from undertricks at various vulnerabilities, compared with the points opponents will gain from making game.  You seem to have trouble with the idea of making a sacrifice bid, but quite often it is just accurately gauging the lesser of two evils for your side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you're going to go down 6 doubled vulnerable, you never make a sacrificial pre-empt!  But you'd be surprised how many tricks you can usually take with 7 or 8 of a single suit in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-06T21:10:15.290" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3665" CreationDate="2011-06-07T00:28:18.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drop the name. It's too similar to a popular game, and the differences will draw ire, not applause, from that crowd. And it sounds in concept dangerously close to Supremacy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't bother trying to find a buyer. You'll need to go it yourself to build enough rep to get someone to by it from you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Best bet: PDF playtest. Do a low-cost PDF Print &amp;amp; Play version, counters and maps both printable. Get people to play it, critique it, tear it apart. Then revise and re-release based upon their feedback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you have it playtested, use a Kickstarter project to raise the up-front money for the initial print run. If you get enough, you print. If not, you don't, but you aren't out anything (and Kickstarter kicks back much of the cash.) See below for more on this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you've raised the cash for the initial print, you do the initial print run. IMMEDIATELY fulfill the kickstarter promises. Then sell the rest through a website, and offer stores and distributors a discount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go to do the kickstarter, remember to account for printing costs, component costs (the bits can probably be commercially acquired), and your combining time and effort, and at inventory tax for your locality for at least a year, plus shipping and handling on the absolute worst case of owed copies due to the kickstarter. Plus 25%, as (IIRC) Kickstarter takes 20% off the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if your &quot;$5&quot; is a revised PDF of to match the last minute changes in the boxed set, that's pretty much a freebie. If it's going to cost $30 in parts and print, and 10 minutes to pack, that's 0.15 hours, and you should pay yourself $10/hr for pack, so $1.50 for that, and $30 to ship anywhere in the world can be done... you need to set the &quot;get a signed copy&quot; at about the $100 level... so that, even if EVERY bit of your initial run of 200 is eaten, you still are getting in $80 per set costing you $35 to make and up to $30 to ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no matter how you do it, get ads out. A column inch in X-men is frightful expensive, but is an advert that will be seen for years and around the globe. An advert in your local paper is forgotten the next week, and seen by only a tiny portion of the target audience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't neglect conventions, either. People playing it in a demo are likely to spread word of it... good or bad, it's a great route for feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T00:28:18.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-06-07T01:06:19.843" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your response of &quot;With 7 points?&quot; makes me think you have some misconceptions about the hands the you ought to preempt on. (As an aside, I am really curious: What do you preempt on?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One normally preempts on highly offensive hands, which when played in any suit other than your long suit will offer very little defense. The position also is relevant, as in third seat you can really be aggressive in your preempts, opposite a passed hand. The vulnerability and scoring also matters: at IMPS going down 3 doubled, non-vul (-500) against a making vul game is (-600) is a great sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't look at the total hcp, but look at your suit length and how offensive your hand is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a hand like Jxxxxxx, Kx , Qx, Kx (9 hcp) is not a hand to prempt (it offers nice defense and is less offensive oriented), but you should preempt on a hand like KQTxxxx, x, xxx, xx (&lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; 5 hcp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With KQTxxxx as trumps, assuming partner holds 2 small trumps, you rate to take 5-6 tricks on average. If partner also has an outside A, you will take 6-7 tricks, which is a great bargain (going down 2 or 3) against opponents making game/slam, especially when vul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual point of preempting is that you rate to take away opponent's bidding space, as well as pointing the way to partner in making a sacrifice over opponents game/slam bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, like with any other bidding situation, it is a risk vs reward + partnership discipline scenario and if you don't go for a number sometimes, you are not preempting enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-06-07T04:18:43.077" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T04:18:43.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3846" CreationDate="2011-06-07T13:06:05.920" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bridge players know that you can make a major suit game with combined partnership holdings of 26 points and eight trumps. (Plus the absence of &quot;bad breaks&quot; in trumps, finesses, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My observation is that one usually can also make such a game with 23 points and nine trumps and 20 points and ten trumps. Put another way, an extra trump is worth a king.&#xA;(Take 40 HCP divided by 13 tricks= 3 1/13 HCP per trick. One &quot;long&quot; trump is worth a trick, by definition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is the basis of Larry Cohen's &quot;law of total tricks.&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3660/what-is-larry-cohens-the-law-of-total-tricks-in-bridge&quot;&gt;What is (Larry Cohen&amp;#39;s) the &amp;quot;Law of Total Tricks&amp;quot; In Bridge?&lt;/a&gt;. Which other experts have systems that seem to follow this principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T17:14:14.653" Title="Which Experts Seem to Interchange Trumps and Points in Bridge Bidding?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3705" CreationDate="2011-06-07T13:25:50.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have extra trumps, you are often short in at least one side suit.  Common wisdom lets you add points to your hand for distribution after you find a fit - 1 point for a doubleton, 3 points for a singleton, and 5 points for a void.  These extra points is how most people bid games with less than 25 HCP.  Remember that long trumps aren't always worth something by themselves - you need to have a short suit opposite your partner's length in order to realize their ruffing potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your suggested opening hand, that would be an excellent 2 Spade preempt.  I would not recommend opening it, as partner would need some very strong matching cards to make game, and he can still bid game over your 2S.  However, 2 spades will disrupt the opponents (who will have the majority of strength the majority of time plus a long suit of their own) from finding their fit easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T13:25:50.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3709" CreationDate="2011-06-07T13:49:25.510" Score="1" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd prefer to use two spades myself. And save two clubs for a &quot;weak two.&quot; Moreover, I was taught that &quot;higher bids mean higher points&quot; (all other things being equal). Two spades is the highest suit bid short of &quot;pre-empts,&quot; and follows this rule. Two clubs doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a five card (or better) major suit and 22+ points, I'm really asking for HCP from partner more than anything else. Because I'm going to assume (on averages) that partner has xxx or Qx in my suit. The expected responses (and points) are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2NT 0-2 points. (No help. You're on your own).&#xA;3 Clubs 3-5 points. (One trick. Game possible with a reasonable fit.)&#xA;3 Diamonds 6-8 points. (Two tricks. Probable game, except with a terrible fit. Limited slam interest).&#xA;3 Hearts 9-11 points. (Three tricks. Possible slam.)&#xA;3 Spades 10-12 points. (Small slam or grand?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only &quot;problem&quot; is if my suit is hearts, and partner bids 3 hearts with 9-11 points (about half of mine). But that is a nice problem to have!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under this system, spades would actually be my &quot;real&quot; suit almost half the time. (Hearts, the other half, plus the occasional NT, and with a minor, I'd use a different system.) You can't say that about a two club bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would you use two clubs over a system such as I've described? Or could you possibly prefer mine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-12T13:13:15.087" LastActivityDate="2022-02-07T03:29:34.347" Title="Why Is Two Clubs the Preferred &quot;Strong Two&quot; In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3708" CreationDate="2011-06-07T13:59:50.110" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 Clubs is the most useful because it leaves the 2 level open for you to describe your hand.  Your side has the preponderance of strength, and thus your side would benefit the most from the extra bidding space.  Conversely, keeping 2 Spades preemptive prevents your opponents from starting to investigate their hands on the 2 level.  If your opponents have a heart fit, they can start to investigate it with a 2 heart bid over a preemptive 2 clubs, while they would have to start with 3 hearts over a preemptive 2 spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system of responses you describe is one that exists in various formats, called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/StepResponse.html&quot;&gt;Step Responses&lt;/a&gt;, where the weaker partner quantitatively reveals the strength of his hand to the 2 club bidder so that he may make a guess as to whether end up in game or slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T13:59:50.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2011-06-07T16:37:58.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realistically, Russia can pursue all three options. Barring cataclysmic dice rolls, Russia can defend Karelia against a German offensive for the first three turns without having to reinforce it to the hilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing Russia my first few turns typically adhere pretty tightly to the following script. (This presumes Russia &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; attack on the opening move.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turn 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Buy 8 infantry. Move the Russian fighter to Sinkiang to dissuade Japan from attacking Sinkiang on its opening turn and to give the USA player the option to build a factory (although I'm not a fan of that approach). Move all other possible units into Karelia save for a lone infantry in Caucasus. Place all 8 purchased infantry in Karelia. On the Eastern front, move the tank from Soviet Far East into Novo. Move one troop from Soviet Far East into Yakut. For the troops in Evenki, I either move them to Novo or Yakut. Usually I go to Novo, but if I know the Japanese player is aggressive on his opening move in Asia then I'll move them to Yakut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turn 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Buy all infantry. Attack Finland. This is needed for two reasons - an opening for the Allies to start shuck-shucking, and the additional 2 IPCs per turn, which will help once Japan starts pushing into the Eastern Russian territories. Also, most German players will have retreated from Ukraine. If there are no troops there I'll blitz it with a tank from Karelia. If there is just one inf I'll use my Karelia fighter and two infs to take it back. Usually, I'll move the tank in Novo into Karelia on the non-combat phase and the fighter in Sinkiang, although again this depends on Japan's moves, whether UK has built a factory in India, and so on. As with Turn 1, dump all purchased infantry into Karelia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turn 3:&lt;/strong&gt; Start operation &quot;hedgehog.&quot; Buy all infantry again, move all surviving units from Finland back to Karelia. Take Ukraine back, start retreating troops from the Eastern front, if Japan is strong enough to threaten them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my Russian approach it is absolutely vital that the UK and US have, #1, secured Africa, and, #2, have started the troop pipeline into Finland by turn 5. Otherwise, Russia is going to be getting a lot of heat from Japan and will have to start to focus on fortifying Russia instead of Karelia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, my main point is that &lt;strong&gt;it is possible for Russia to initially fortify in the East, attack Finland in the West, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; fortify Karelia in the first few turns.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T16:37:58.717" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3708" CreationDate="2011-06-07T17:51:13.103" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with what dpmattingly says - clubs is a useful level to bid at when you are looking for a response from your partner.  Spades is a useful level to bid at when you're trying to deny bidding room to your opponents.  You don't &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to deny bidding room to your opponents when you have a strong hand - they may be scared to leap in and earn a costly double.  You need to go as high as you can though if you are trying to lock then out of a contract that is theirs on points - only by seriously severing their lines of communication by depriving them of LOTS of bidding space do you stand a chance of achieving your desired result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I used to play with beginners who used to do things like overcall a strong 2C bid with a 2D bid.  I hope you can say that that deprives the opponents of no bidding space whatsoever, just gives them a huge amount of valuable information about the lie of the cards!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd add to what dp says, that clubs are a great suit to bid to conventionally describe a strong hand... because clubs are a rubbish suit for actual non-conventional, hand-describing bids.  You almost never want to be in a clubs contract if you can help it - unless you're making a slam.  3NT is almost always better than 5C, and it's so much better than 4C you wouldn't believe it.  I'd almost go so far as to say any system that actively discourages you and your partner from finding club fits is better than one that doesn't!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all these reasons, 2C is a much better place for your strong 2 bid than 2S.  It's become a standard for a reason - don't try to reinvent the wheel! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T17:51:13.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3748" CreationDate="2011-06-07T19:37:12.920" Score="0" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Pearl Harbor attack, people like Don Rae advocate sacrificing a battleship or bomber (instead of a cheaper fighter) as a &quot;second&quot; casualty as a &quot;gambit&quot; just to get American air forces to head for the Pacific instead of the Atlantic. Can one also make a case for electing NOT to take the sub as a (first) casualty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, in a first turn Med naval battle, should Germany use its sub off France as &quot;cannon fodder&quot; in an attack against the British battleship off Gibraltar? Or should it have the sub try to take out the U.S. convoy off the Atlantic and let larger units deal with the battleship (and suffer the consequences).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, is it sometimes better to take big warships or planes as potential casualties over a smaller, but more strategic unit such as a sub? Or is the loss in IPCs too much to bear (12 or 15 versus 8)?  How do you make these choices?  And, how, if at all, would your answer change if you had &quot;super&quot; subs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T16:25:46.890" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T16:19:08.947" Title="How do I Decide to Sacrifice or Preserve &quot;Smaller&quot; Naval Units  (E.g. Subs) In Axis and Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3717" CreationDate="2011-06-07T19:54:53.263" Score="8" ViewCount="3124" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's been a lot of talk about bridge bidding in these parts lately.  A lot of people like to play &quot;straight down the line&quot;, to the point where they're mortally offended when you suggest something &quot;risky&quot; but actually fairly commonplace, like a weak no trump, falsecarding, or even (apparently!) pre-emptive bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it wise to cleave very closely to a standard systems of bidding, that have been refined through the ages and proven themselves time and again?  Or is it well worth it to introduce a bit of craziness into the mix, in the hopes of bamboozling opponents who may be too set in their ways?  It seems obvious to me that putting opponents in situations they haven't encountered millions of times before in the course of playing against standard systems might be a good way of gaining an advantage over them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If odd bidding systems are a good idea, then what examples of them can you give, and how did they confer an advantage?  I have a couple of anecdotes of my own, but I'll provide them as an answer...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2019-06-03T16:37:49.757" Title="What Crazy Bridge Bidding Systems Actually Work In Practice?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3715" CreationDate="2011-06-07T20:05:13.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always Play The Nine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The great and not a little anarchic British player Zia Mahmood - and correct me if any of this is wrong, as I'm recounting it from hazy memories - was once saddled with a partner who wasn't the greatest.  After trying and failing to get her to understand the basics of leads and so forth, he finally gave up, and invented a new system.  If she had a nine, she should always play it.  Apparently a middle-of-the-pack lead like this was much less likely to instantly compromise the contract than various of the other options.  Zia's partner was pretty happy to have so many fewer confusing options to deal with, and apparently they were able to do a lot better at the Bridge table for the rest of the evening!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strong Pass System&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't claim to be as interesting and funny as Zia Mahmood, but once, a slightly insane friend of mine and I cooked up a strong pass system and played it online.  Sitting in first seat, a pass meant a huge whack of points and was incredibly forcing... all other bids were an increasingly elaborate attempt to build on that.  Yes, it would have all fallen apart if we'd told our hapless opponents what we were playing, but as a one-off joke it was wonderful.  Our crowning glory was managing to go down just a couple of tricks undoubled against a partnership who had 30 points between them - in first and third seats our repeated aggressive bidding (signifying of course that we had nothing at all) completely impeded any ability they had to take control of the bidding, and then their defence was deeply confused by the fact they thought we had completely different hands to the actual truth, at every turn!  I still feel a bit guilty that at the end of that game our opponents congratulated us for some of the most amazing play they'd ever seen at the Bridge table... we were being so naughty, and they were so nice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T20:05:13.073" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3715" CreationDate="2011-06-07T20:22:27.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMO, the biggest advantage of these odd systems comes from the fact that the opponents are not prepared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ought to provide opponents enough time to come up with a defense to your system. If your system is odds-against, you will tend to lose in the long run. In fact, some championships require the system players to also provide a written defence! (I believe this is true of Multi 2D in US National tournaments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing without adequate disclosure, you are not playing Bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some examples, I suppose Multi 2D and the preemptive 2H,2S etc actually started out as &quot;odd&quot; conventions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was about to add an answer with StrongPass but you already did that :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO, system is a minor factor in winning Bridge and odds-against odd systems only tend to work till opponents wise up. I would rather play something &quot;simple enough&quot; rather than waste effort trying to remember an overly complicated system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-06-07T20:22:27.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3775" CreationDate="2011-06-08T12:12:48.970" Score="4" ViewCount="18296" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Germany in A&amp;amp;A 2nd Edition, is it a feasible strategy for Germany to buy a Italian transport on the first turn, for the purposes of cementing Germany's Mediterranean naval presence and enabling it to sustain troop transports into Africa? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don Rae's &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/essay1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;essay on purchasing&lt;/a&gt; recommends this buy, but I rarely see it used and I wonder why. Is it because people think it's a flawed strategy (and thus never give it a shot), because they've tried it but not successfully executed (thus giving up on it), or because most people have simply never heard of (or independently come up with) the idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think this strategy works, what does it change about your first turn German attacks (i.e. presumably your med Battleship and Transport do not engage in naval battles, so how do you re-balance your attacks accordingly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T06:01:52.440" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:40:32.670" Title="In Axis and Allies, Should Germany build a first turn transport and try and control the Med/Africa?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|openings|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3725" CreationDate="2011-06-08T13:11:08.763" Score="1" ViewCount="402" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are situations that seem to be outside the official (second edition) rules. Unless I'm missing something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose Russia is allowed attack Norway on the first turn, and does so with two fighters, three tanks (five units that hit with 1-3), and three infantry via Karelia, against 1 fighter, 1 tank, and 3 infantry. The five heavy units roll 1,1,2,3,4, an above average roll that scores four hits. Can the attack tell the infantry NOT to fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fifth unit is eliminated by infantry, Russia has to occupy Norway, possibly fatally weakening Karelia. Russia has now achieved its &quot;strafing&quot; objective (the German fighter should retreat, and the UK can occupy Norway on its turn.) So Russia would like to cap the hits at four, if allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Pearl Harbor attack, Japan sends a battle fleet against the Hawaiian sea zone, and scores two hits on the first round. The US elects to take the carrier and fighter as casualties (so that the sub can withdraw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the carrier had survived, Japan can retreat its fleet to Wake Island, out of the Hawaiian dead zone. Can it do the same with a withdrawing sub? (The rules say that the battle is over, and the attacker must stand put, when the defender is DESTROYED. But the sub wasn't &quot;destroyed.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that the attacker relinquished his prerogative of &quot;hot pursuit&quot; of the sub and chose to withdraw after a short, one-round battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T01:02:00.227" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T01:02:00.227" Title="In Axis and Allies, Should An Attacker Be Allowed to Relinquish Certain &quot;Prerogatives?&quot;" Tags="|axis-and-allies|tactics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3732" CreationDate="2011-06-08T14:00:58.417" Score="4" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most versions of the game it is essential for the Allies to capture Norway to allow the US and UK to properly reinforce Russia. A question them arises, which Ally should do the capturing (i.e. which mouse should &quot;bell&quot; the cat)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among many second edition players, Russia can't attack the first turn. Assuming that the German player moves out his fighter on his turn (as he should), the UK could launch an amphibious assault on Norway using the tank on the transport from Canada, supported by a bomber and two fighters (assuming that the ships in the UK sea zone were sunk by German air and sea attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the odds aren't great. The attack succeeds 73% of the time (79% if you assume mutually assured destruction that allows Russia to occupy Norway on its turn). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&lt;/a&gt;. The average UK IPC loss is 21 (the tank, one fighter, and a second fighter half the time) versus much less for the Germans. In conjunction with the naval losses, might that leave Britain too weak to defend itself properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's try Russia. If it doesn't get to attack the first turn, it might take out Norway the second turn. But that might weaken Karelia too much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine America doing this job. On turn two with two fighters (based in the UK) and two infantry in an amphibious assault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a clue comes from another example (using a Russian first turn attack). Russia &quot;strafes&quot; Norway without taking it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3721/in-axis-and-allies-should-an-attacker-be-allowed-to-relinquish-his-prerogatives&quot;&gt;In Axis and Allies, Should An Attacker Be Allowed to Relinquish Certain &amp;quot;Prerogatives?&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; UK (or US) makes an amphibious attack against a WEAKENED German force. Could a &quot;cooperative&quot; venture be the best solution of all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T16:18:19.983" Title="In Axis and Allies, Which Ally Should &quot;Take Out&quot; Norway." Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3724" CreationDate="2011-06-08T15:05:00.047" Score="5" ViewCount="4491" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over 1NT, some people bid two diamonds to say they have five hearts, and two hearts to say they have five spades. The 1NT person bids the desired suit, completing the transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the idea is to &quot;hide&quot; the (stronger) 1NT hand. Except for one thing. As a defender I already have a pretty good idea of the 1NT hand; balanced distribution probably one or more honors in every suit. A defender might actually be more interested in seeing the &quot;five trump&quot; hand, particularly if is highly distributional (singletons and voids, instead of high card points). The &quot;no trumper&quot; has three trumps, on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the advantages of transfer bids possibly outweigh the disadvantages? Put another way, why is it more important to hide the high cards than the five trumps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T19:12:54.347" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T14:14:34.480" Title="In Bridge, Why Do People Use &quot;Transfer Bids&quot; Over 1 NT?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3723" CreationDate="2011-06-08T15:45:14.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason to transfer is because the opening 1NT bidder is more likely to have tenances (AQ, KJ, etc.) in his hand than the responder. As a defender with dummy on your left, you can lead through them to score your partner's honors.  If they were hidden, leads by you could very well wind up giving declarer free finesses.  Yes, you wind up showing the more shapely hand, but that is considered preferable to showing the defense just what honors the stronger hand has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T15:45:14.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2011-06-08T16:51:08.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the case of Karelia versus Norway, the infantry must attack; all attacks other than sub sneak-attacks are considered simultaneous, and you've already declared your attackers, so you must go down the line and attack with everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you didn't want to take Norway, you shouldn't have attacked with so many models.  You can always place your reinforcements in Karelia at the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T16:51:08.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-08T18:20:59.780" Score="6" ViewCount="21658" Body="&lt;p&gt;i.e. Player needs 4 points to go out.  The hand value is 3.  Does the Player get to go out with the added 1 point &quot;Go&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1401" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:22:38.067" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T18:20:50.880" Title="Cribbage score going out" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2011-06-08T18:50:18.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player pegs out at soon as they are able.  You would score the points for playing the hand (Go's and anything else) first during the play of the hand, and then score your hands, non-dealer first.  So in your case, since the Go was part of the play, you'd score the point, and then score your hand and peg out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T18:50:18.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2011-06-08T19:04:48.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fine to go over in standard cribbage; the game is won by the first player or partnership to reach or exceed 121 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember the way things are scored: as they happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that three points you mention was in play, such as opponent leads a 9, you play a 5, opponent plays a 6, and you play a 7, scoring three for the run in play, then the go from the opponent puts another 1 point score on the pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a run in hand, however, it's scored only after the last card, starting with the player to the dealer's left and going left around the table (same as play order). If you are at 117 points, have a 3 point hand (say AJQK and a 2 up), and get the last card for 118, and the other guy is at 110 and gets 16 (AA23), it is determined by who scores hand first. If you dealt, you lose; if he dealt, you win. In three or four player non-partnership, if he's to your right, you've lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And remember: muggins can't be claimed until after the peg has been moved. Only on an overpeg would it prevent victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember: if your scoring sheet shows last card separate from Go, there is no &quot;go&quot; on last card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a common variant, called &lt;em&gt;exact out&lt;/em&gt;, where you have to hit 121 exactly, and any score that would take one over is lost (but must be called out to prevent it being muggins-claimed). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T23:39:21.817" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T23:39:21.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3734" CreationDate="2011-06-08T19:36:15.593" Score="4" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most players I've seen will often sacrifice potential overtricks in &quot;rubber&quot; bridge to be sure of making game. Apparently, that's not the case in &quot;duplicate.&quot; Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T21:46:47.880" Title="In Bridge, When and Why Do People Sacrifice Overtricks to Be Sure of Making Game?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-06-08T19:57:57.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three popular methods of scoring, each of which treat overtricks with different value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rubber&lt;/strong&gt; - Here the priority is making game (or multiple partscores) to finish the rubber.  Points earned for your contract go &quot;below the line&quot;, and count towards winning the game and the rubber.  All other points (setting contracts, slam bonuses, hundred honors, etc) go &quot;above the line&quot;, and do not count towards ending the rubber.  Since ending the rubber is worth 500 or 700 points depending on whether or not your opponents scored a game or not, you can see how sacrificing a 20-30 point bonus trick could be worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Matchpoint Duplicate&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the form of the game most often played at bridge clubs in partnerships.  Here, you score one point for each other partnership's score you beat when they played the same hands.  Since the scoring here is more absolute, there is value in winning an overtrick if you think the rest of the partnerships playing this hand would not.  For example, if you are in 4S, but feel that most people might be in 3NT making 4, you're going to want to try to make 5.  If you do, your 450 will beat everyone else's 430, and you'll get the maximum amount of points on that board.  Conversely, if you only make 4, you'll only score 420 on the hand, and your score will be worth nothing.  Since your 4S making 4 is worth nothing, you can see that 4S going down would also be worth nothing, so in this case it is worthwhile to risk the contract to get the overtrick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;International Matchpoints (or IMPs)&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the form usually played in teams, where you and another partnership play against another foursome, and your results are compared directly.  Much like in rubber, in IMPs overtricks are not worth a whole lot. (see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn/scoreTeams.html&quot;&gt;scoring chart&lt;/a&gt; for the ugly details)  If you score an overtrick that your opponents do not, you get 1 IMP.  On the other hand, if you fail to make game while your opponents do, you lose 10-12 IMPS.  Here, securing the contract is priority #1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T19:57:57.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3722" CreationDate="2011-06-08T21:05:27.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are some subtle benefits of owning Finland:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To Russia, it represents another 2 IPCs a turn, which it can turn directly into infantry on the front: a valuable ability. The US and UK can obviously also use the money, but it takes longer for the units to reach the front (first built, then moved to Finland, then to Karelia). Also, both the US and UK have to move units via transports, which means that sometimes even if they have the 3 IPCs for an extra infantry they don't actually have the transport bandwidth to move it the following turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The US can build a factory in Finland, thus enabling it to pump 2 units a turn directly into Europe. I typically don't do this if the shuck-shuck is going well because the opportunity cost of a factory is too high. Although I've done it in a long game where I have too much money and the Axis isn't ready to concede--just to speed up the tanks I can put on the continent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't perceive any real advantage of UK ownership--other than the money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;strong&gt;I usually try to have the first country able take Finland and don't worry too much about who it is.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, this seems to be Russia. Assuming no ally can take it on turn 1 (by rule for Russia, for want of sufficient transports for UK and US), then turn 2 is the earliest. If Germany was clever, they rescued the tank and 2 inf with a feint on Karelia, making capture easy; if not, it's a prime target for the Russian tanks and the necessary infantry (no dead zone concerns assuming the German North Sea transport is gone). This attack doesn't leave Karelia too weakened because of their turn 2 infantry placement and UK and US fighters that can be moved over in turn 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T21:05:27.723" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3730" CreationDate="2011-06-08T21:41:37.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a risk vs reward situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In duplicate, which is normally played as matchpoints, where your score is compared with other pairs which held the same hands. You get 1 point for every pair you beat and 1/2 for every pair you equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you are playing matchpoints with 11 tables. You are in 4S. Assume the hands are so simple to bid, that you are pretty sure every other pair will be in 4S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have a shot of making an overtrick, or going down (and expect others to be in the same position). Say, making the overtrick has 75% chances, and the other 25%, you will go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now suppose x of the remaining declarers decide to take the risk too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75% of the time, you expect to win x/2 + (10-x) = 10-x/2 matchpoints.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;25% of the time, you expect to win x/2 matchpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your expectation is 7.5 - x/4. Which in the worst case is average (5 points)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine you don't take the risk and always play safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;75% of the time you expect to win: 5-x/2 &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;25% of the time you expect to win: 5+x/2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your expectation is 5 - x/4: At best you get an average!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if the chances of the overtrick were &amp;lt; 50%, it turns out that you should actually play safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At matchpoints, the usual strategy when taking an action is to look at how frequently that action will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, nowadays at IMPS too, I have seen good players talk about trying for overtricks when the chances are &gt; 93% or so, but there are a lot of other factors, like how strong the opposing team is, what the current score is (which you cannot be sure of), how long the match is etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In rubber bridge which is total points, you really need a very very low risk in order for the overtrick shot to be worthwhile (harder to compute, I suppose). Of course it depends on the contract you are in and how many overtricks are at stake, where you are in the rubber etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-06-08T21:46:47.880" LastActivityDate="2011-06-08T21:46:47.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3747" CreationDate="2011-06-08T22:31:48.967" Score="6" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is probably a silly question, but I've just read the rulebook of &quot;Last Night on Earth&quot;, and need a small clarification: the rulebook says that a zombie player must draw up to two cards at the start of his/her turn. It also says that the player must play immediately any &quot;Play Immediately&quot; cards that he/she draws from the zombie deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have no cards in hand, and one of the the cards I draw is a &quot;Play Immediately&quot; card - do I draw another card, so I'll have two cards in my hand, or does this count as though I've already drawn two cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T18:20:41.910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T18:20:41.910" Title="Do &quot;play immediately&quot; cards in the zombie turn affect the number of cards a zombie player will have in his hand?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3736" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-09T00:28:33.060" Score="5" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a little confused about the scoring in the situations shown. It says the Cloister must be surrounded by land on all sides. In both cases illustrated, one of the six tiles surrounding the Cloister tile is technically an all-city tile. I thought since a solid wall was made that this is okay - the Cloister is still technically surrounded by grass. My partner thought it wouldn't count as no land exists on that tile. Any ideas here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1402" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T20:56:15.077" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T00:15:27.873" Title="Can a Cloister be scored if one tile is an all-city tile in Carcassonne?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2011-06-09T00:52:26.560" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe &amp;quot;tile&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;land tile&amp;quot; are synonymous.  The rules for scoring cloisters states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cloister is complete when the tile it is on is completely surrounded by land tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the rules for drawing tiles is (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Placing land tiles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First a player must draw a &lt;strong&gt;land tile&lt;/strong&gt; from one of the face-down stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, tiles are referred to as &amp;quot;land tiles&amp;quot; when drawing.  We can then infer that &amp;quot;tiles&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;land tiles&amp;quot; are the same thing.  So a cloister only has to be surrounded by tiles, not specifically tiles with grass on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T00:52:26.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3736" CreationDate="2011-06-09T00:53:37.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that cloister is complete and can be scored.  Cloisters earn points per &lt;em&gt;tile&lt;/em&gt; touching them, with nothing specifying what kind of tile it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_48_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;Land tile.&quot;  It is referring to any kind of tile you can place.  If, by placing a &quot;land tile,&quot; a cloister is completely surrounded by tiles (including The River tiles, the starting tile, etc.), then it is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are pertinent scoring rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cloister completed during the game - 9&#xA;  points Cloister at end of game - 1&#xA;  point for each tile (cloister tile and&#xA;  each surrounding tile)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, by placing the land tile, cloisters, roads, and/or cities are completed, they are now scored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, the phrase &quot;Land tile&quot; is only to distinguish it from &quot;starting tile.&quot;  Weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T00:53:37.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3741" CreationDate="2011-06-09T07:35:27.767" Score="7" ViewCount="78430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a fair bit of cribbage, but I've never heard of scoring one point for &quot;Go&quot; (as mentioned in this other question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3727/cribbage-score-going-out&quot;&gt;Cribbage score going out&lt;/a&gt;).  What is it, and what impact does it have on the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T20:27:33.000" Title="What is &quot;Go&quot; in cribbage?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3740" CreationDate="2011-06-09T11:12:42.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Go&quot; is when the count is less than 31 and the player whose turn it is to play has no legal plays (all cards remaining would put the count over 31). That player says &quot;Go&quot;, the other person scores one point, and then plays any remaining cards in their hand (without going over 31). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The explanation at cribbage.org from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section5&quot;&gt;rule 1.5.e.2&lt;/a&gt; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Players alternately play (place face up on the table) one card at a time, starting with the pone. The cumulative value of the cards played is announced as each card is played.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When a player cannot play a card without the cumulative total exceeding 31, that player calls &quot;go&quot;, and the opponent continues to play all cards possible (not exceeding a 31-count). The player who calls &quot;go&quot; plays first in the following 31-count sequence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Points are scored during this play of the cards (see scoring chart in rule 1.7).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring occurs normally on these cards &amp;ndash; points for pairs, runs, etc. are still scored &amp;ndash; except that if such play takes the count to 31, that player scores an additional point: you get two for reaching 31 or one for Go, but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the definition &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section6&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and the scoring rules &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section7&quot;&gt;below&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impact is generally small. It's unlikely that you'd get much more than two points during this time, as it takes at least two cards from your hand to reach a state where the other person would call Go, leaving you only two to play. You might be able to score a triple, but more likely you'd just get two or maybe four (with a pair) ... and your opponent might get those points back if you end up playing your remaining cards, e.g. by having 4-5-6 and being able to play them consecutively (after you've played your last card following Go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T11:18:40.017" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T11:18:40.017" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3740" CreationDate="2011-06-09T11:21:40.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;You get 1 point if your opponent cannot &amp;quot;go&amp;quot; because the count is too high&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules of cribbage&lt;/a&gt; describe the general turn order of a cribbage hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the count phase, each player lays down a card in turn, adding to a monotonically increasing score. Upon their turn, if a player does not have a card in their hand that they can play without taking the cumulative count past 31 then they say go, and the other player gets to peg one point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That other player then continues to lay down cards until they also cannot play, until they are out of cards, or until they reach the exact count of 31. Playing your last card and hitting 31 exactly are each worth 1 additional point each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site has some good examples of &lt;a href=&quot;http://cribbagecorner.com/go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;how to score &amp;quot;go&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, which is probably the most complicated rule in cribbage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How it impacts the game...&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious impact on the game is just another way to get a point. Practically, it influences what cards people play as they approach 31:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People tend to save smaller value cards for later in the count (both so they won't have to say go and to increase their chances of getting 31 and/or last card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The sneakiest way to use &amp;quot;go&amp;quot; to your advantage is when you have pairs or runs of small-value cards near the end and your opponent has high-value cards. Once your opponent calls &amp;quot;go&amp;quot; you get to play your cards one-after-another until you also cannot go. Well if they call &amp;quot;go&amp;quot; at a count of 25 because 10-&lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt;-Q were played and they're holding two cards of rank 7 or above while you're holding three 2s, then you're in good shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'd play &lt;strong&gt;2-2-2&lt;/strong&gt;, scoring 2 for the pair, 6 for the pair royal, and 2 for 31. At this point the count would start over, and your opponent would play their last two cards (hopefully not a pair).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More experienced players will also try and &lt;strong&gt;infer what cards another player has by what they lay down&lt;/strong&gt; so that on their turn they can avoid playing into a count where their opponent could use their likely last card to hit 31 (or close to it). For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If my opponent's penultimate card was a low-value card like a 4 and they'd previously played another 4, then I suspect they have a third one as well and I will try and avoid making the count 27&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll try and look at what cards they've played and what cards would complement them in terms of making runs or totals of 15 (or pairs, as described above), and assume they might be holding those cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/670/optimal-leading-card-in-cribbage/2036#2036&quot;&gt;there are lots of things to consider during the count&lt;/a&gt;, and since go is only worth 1 point these considerations shouldn't weight as heavily as avoiding playing into a large run or a pair royal, but absent those circumstances, go considerations can influence your play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2022-10-27T20:27:33.000" LastActivityDate="2022-10-27T20:27:33.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3744" CreationDate="2011-06-09T12:43:00.840" Score="7" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.viddler.com/explore/cheezburger/videos/1692/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;funny cat video&lt;/a&gt; where the cat gets beaten in chess by a trick opening. It is not the well known &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fool%27s_mate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fool's mate&lt;/a&gt;, but I guess it is a famous opening too. Can anyone identify the opening that is played here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T20:40:22.897" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T20:40:22.897" Title="What chess-opening does this cat play" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3743" CreationDate="2011-06-09T13:02:51.917" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;That appears to be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scholar%27s_mate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scholar's Mate&lt;/a&gt;, the four-move game that ends with 4. Qxf7#.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In chess, Scholar's Mate is the checkmate achieved by the moves 1. e4 e5 2. Qh5 Nc6 3. Bc4 Nf6? 4. Qxf7#. The moves might be played in a different order or in slight variation, but the basic idea is the same – the queen and bishop combine in a simple mating attack on f7 (or f2 if Black is performing the mate). Sometimes Scholar's Mate is referred to as the Four-Move Checkmate, though there are other ways to checkmate in four moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is a fake video. I've never met a cat who would fall for this move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T13:02:51.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4262" CreationDate="2011-06-09T13:05:00.543" Score="2" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;What factors should be considered when deciding whether to invade a minor country and pay the 3+ IPC's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T21:57:21.897" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:26:06.023" Title="When should I pay to invade a neutral country in Axis and Allies" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3825" CreationDate="2011-06-09T13:22:10.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1528" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most has been made of the so-called infantry push mechanism. Specifically, infantry are awfully useful for shielding heavier pieces (tanks, planes) from losses. But could they be too much of a good thing, at least in the early going? Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia: Buys 8 infantry from at least 4-5 turns. With the possible exception of conquering Norway-Finland, and &quot;strafing&quot; the Ukraine, plays a strict defensive during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany: Spends IPCs matching Russia's infantry build up in Europe. Except for sending 2 infantry each turn across the Med to Africa (which basically represents Germany's excess IPCs over Russia). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UK Build factory in South Africa in turn 1, 5 infantry in UK withe remaining IPCs. Turn 2, two tanks in SA, two transports. Turn 3, more tanks in SA, one transport in UK, remainder infantry, bound for Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan: Build 8 infantry turns 1-2. Ferry 4 to China each turn using two transports, hold the rest for defense of homeland. Maybe on turn 3, build a third transport, ferry two more units to China (plus basic four).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;U.S.: Move battleship and transport from Pacific to Caribbean first turn. Build factory in Sinkiang, 7 infantry. Turn 2, build tanks in Sinkiang, another transport off East Coast.  remainder infantry. Caribbean transport picks up two infantry from east coast, back to Caribbean. Turn 3, Caribbean transport takes infantry to protect Brazil, second transport takes infantry to West Indies and Panama, rest of infantry &quot;dribbles&quot; (from California) into Mexico and British Columbia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a static, defensive construct? Or are there dynamics that I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T16:17:44.097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:11:04.913" Title="In Axis and Allies, Can Infantry Building Lead to a &quot;Stalemate&quot; in the Early Going?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3735" CreationDate="2011-06-09T14:03:03.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing as the zombie, you first fill your hand of cards (4 cards if there is 1 zombie player, 2 cards if there are 2 zombie players). After drawing all cards, you then decide in which order you would like to resolve all of the &quot;play immediately&quot; cards just drawn. After resolving these cards, they are not replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T14:03:03.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3714" CreationDate="2011-06-09T14:19:48.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After having left a &quot;partial&quot; answer to try to frame the discussion a week ago, I'll now try to finish it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In purely NAVAL terms, a sub is worth more than 8 IPCs. Specifically, a 24-IPC battleship has four attack and four defense rolls. So do two subs. On this basis, a sub might be worth 12 IPCs, about the same as a fighter. And more than a transport PLUS an infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sub also has &quot;first strike&quot; and &quot;early withdrawal&quot; capabilities that battleships and fighters do not, adding to their value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike the others, a sub cannot fight air or land units. You could say that diminishes the value of the sub, or at least that this balances out the sub's special capabilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if we're valuing the units for their purely naval capacities, there's probably nothing better (for the money) than a sub. The reason to use the sub as &quot;cannon fodder&quot; is if we want to save planes or battleships for non-naval functions like land bombardment or anti-aircraft. And that these needs took priority over what was going on at sea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T15:43:59.597" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T15:43:59.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3750" CreationDate="2011-06-09T15:22:09.003" Score="6" ViewCount="6008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idea that both conventions are used to check for aces in slam bidding, and that one starts at four clubs and the other at 4NT. Beyond that, I'm confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would a bidder use one over the other? Or is it that some systems prefer one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I tell which one my partner is using? Or must we agree beforehand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T21:05:50.003" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T20:32:34.233" Title="In Bridge, What's the Difference Between the Blackwood And Gerber Conventions?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3749" CreationDate="2011-06-09T15:33:24.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwood_convention&quot;&gt;Blackwood&lt;/a&gt; is used for suit contracts, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerber_convention&quot;&gt;Gerber&lt;/a&gt; is used for Notrump contracts.  This was a necessary evil based on how Blackwood develops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say we have established that we should be in Notrump, and I want to try for slam.  If I bid 4NT Blackwood, and find out that we are missing 2 Aces, how can I sign off?  5NT would ask for Kings, and 6NT is obviously too high.  There's no way to bid a safe level of Notrump anymore.  By using the Gerber 4C bid, I can sign off in 4NT if we are missing two aces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T15:50:13.027" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T15:50:13.027" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-06-09T17:16:13.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a technique that I've found works great, borrowed from Starfarers of Catan...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At start of game, make a deck of 10 each of all 5 resource types. Shuffle. Each player-turn, anyone below 6 VP who doesn't get a resource by the roll gets a card off the deck. When it's emptied, restock it with 5 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T17:16:13.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3721" CreationDate="2011-06-09T20:36:14.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that in a strategy level game like A&amp;amp;A 'turns' equate to something along the lines of a month. The kind of actions you are wanting to control are more 'tactical'. At the command level troops are committed to an attack long before the offensive begins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1411" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T20:36:14.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2011-06-09T21:27:41.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In casual play, it's not necessary to memorize openings. Because your &quot;casual&quot; (by definition) opponent won't know them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much more important to know tactics, and to &quot;read&quot; the opponent's moves. If s/he departs from the &quot;book,&quot; its usually to that player's detriment. Occasionally he'll stumble on an alternate variation, rarely find a new line. Figure out why your opponent's moves are (probably) wrong, and take advantage of that fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T21:27:41.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4000" CreationDate="2011-06-09T21:59:05.887" Score="6" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;In his &lt;a href=&quot;http://draidin.com/websites/AAEssays/Essay2.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;seminal essays&lt;/a&gt;, Don Rae suggests that a retreating player &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; leaves one infantry in the territory she is retreating from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Retreat and regroup when faced with overwhelming odds against your forces, always leaving at least one infantry defending in a territory - give them NOTHING for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree this advise makes sense if the opponent has tanks adjacent to the territory you are retreating from and can capture two territories in one turn, or reach an otherwise un- or under-defended territory through the vacated territory, but that aside, &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; does it make sense to leave one infantry in a territory you're retreating from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you know your enemy will attack (and conquer) a territory whether you have one infantry in it or not, why would you leave one in there? That's one less infantry you have to help defend the territory you just retreated to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T16:43:08.193" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T16:43:08.193" Title="When retreating from a compromised territory should you always leave one infantry?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2011-06-09T23:09:37.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My sense that it is not only feasible but necessary for Germany to spend more effort on building/maintaining a navy than is usually the case. One of my opening gambits is move the Med battleship and transport (plus infantry) to Black Sea for amphibious assault on the Caucasus to give the FORMER a &quot;safe&quot; mission. If that's the case, you really need to build a second Med transport to ferry troops to Africa. (I'd use airpower against the British battleship off Gibraltar. A bomber or fighter lost vs. that ship would represent a savings.) These were some of the issues I explored in various iterations of my naval/sub question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just the transport. Then I'd build subs to control the Atlantic as long as possible, but there may come a day to build a second battleship, cost what it may. (Or an aircraft carrier with two fighters.) But think of that as what you need to do to keep Africa. Otherwise you'll lose anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possibility of avoiding this is to enlist Japan's help in the Mediterranean. (The British actually did this with Japan against the Germans in World War ONE.) One of the answers I was hoping to hear from my US vs. Japan in the Pacific question was, &quot;BOTH sides should break off Pacific combat and send their fleets to the MED, which should be the site of the game-deciding battle. (But you provided some GREAT alternatives for Japan in the South Pacific.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Despite my numerous questions, I've never actually PLAYED the game. What I've done is &quot;play test,&quot; it i.e. play both sides of say, a Japan-U.S. Pacific confrontation, a German-Russian east front battle, a German British-Med fight, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like your question. If I ask questions that seem not to be from actual games (yet), they WILL be, if I ever get around to playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-09T23:36:49.007" LastActivityDate="2011-06-09T23:36:49.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2011-06-10T00:28:13.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes, never leave a territory undefended&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never leave a territory undefended if my enemy is in attacking range. A single infantry can capture an undefended territory, think of what risk and reward this exposes them to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-3 IPCs&lt;/strong&gt;: they might lose the unit if you counter-attack (this is pretty much the worst that can happen to them, as the value of a single infantry elsewhere on the board is likely not as large as the benefit they're about to get by taking this territory from you)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+1 IPCs&lt;/strong&gt;: they might get a hit when you try and take it (this is their worst case: only one round of combat killing on of your infantry. If you're dumb enough to attack without cannon fodder or if you go in too light and it takes multiple turns this expected value goes up.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+1 (or more) IPCs&lt;/strong&gt;: the income from the territory that turn and any future turns until you take it back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+? IPCs&lt;/strong&gt;: how many IPCs in units it will cost you to take it back (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;priceless&lt;/strong&gt;: the opportunity cost of what you're not going to be able to attack with the next turn because they are not going to leave it undefended.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Now think of what it takes to capture a territory defended by only 1 infantry:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you &lt;strong&gt;attack with just 1 infantry&lt;/strong&gt; you're likely to completely fail, mutual destruction is also quite likely--in which case they still own the territory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you &lt;strong&gt;attack with 2 infantry&lt;/strong&gt;, you still only have about a 60 percent change of taking the territory, and even then with some risk of losing one of your units.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use &lt;strong&gt;armor&lt;/strong&gt;, then you're likely to win but leave it in a dead zone. Armor should be treated like fine China: bring it out to impress, but don't put it in harm's way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your best option is to use &lt;strong&gt;airpower&lt;/strong&gt;, but now we're back to opportunity cost. A fighter that spends it's attack taking back border countries you never should have given away could have been used in a land attack, a naval attack, or just moved into a better position on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the lesson is &lt;strong&gt;when you realize one of your territories is a dead zone, don't abandon it&lt;/strong&gt;. Leave one infantry there and force your opponent to decide how much he's willing to devote to take it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your enemy presents you with an open territory take it. If you don't have an infantry on your front lines territory (for shame), then blitz in and out with a tank just to get the free IPCs. But unless it's worth more than 5 IPCs don't leave a tank there by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T00:28:13.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4026" CreationDate="2011-06-10T00:38:42.043" Score="8" ViewCount="2096" Body="&lt;p&gt;One game that still leaves me stumped for good strategy is Reiner Knizia's auction game Modern Art.  The last time it hit our table, I noticed that when it was my turn to auction a painting early in the round, I had no clue which of my paintings to select first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you play cards of an artist that you have fewer of (hoping someone will buy it because they have some to sell as well), or one you have a lot of (and run the risk that nobody else is interested in it)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much is the artist tiebreak worth thinking about?  If all else is equal, sure, play a Lite Metal over a Krypto, but is it more important than that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What kind of auction do you play?  I would think that an open auction would generate the most interest, but is that the case, and is it worth worrying about?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you play a double painting to saturate the market, or do you hold out and try to cash the double in later, hopefully as the third and fourth painting of the round?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In later rounds, how much do the carryover values from the previous rounds matter?  Sure, they are worth more, but conversely there are less of them left to sell and people may not be interested anymore?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have a better feel for this game, and can provide some insight?  I'd love to have a couple rules of thumb ready for when I play this game next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:25:11.197" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T10:57:06.707" Title="Choosing early round paintings to auction in Modern Art" Tags="|modern-art|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3643" CreationDate="2011-06-10T02:01:42.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule I have used is very simple, &quot;No Heavy Bombers&quot;, if you roll HB's you get your choice of the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An option I think might be workable is that instead of 2 or 3 dice, roll one die and it costs your opponent IPC's as normal unless you roll a 1, on a roll of 1 the factory is eliminated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In WWII Allied Bombers were a key factor to victory, which makes for a good war and bad game. But with a board game you don't have to worry about the terrible consequences to humanity of a NAZI victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1411" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T02:01:42.873" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3764" CreationDate="2011-06-10T03:10:03.903" Score="19" ViewCount="94026" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some lands have an ability to become a creature, but they usually say they are still a land. If a land is a 3/3 creature and a land, can you target and kill it with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; to send it to the graveyard, or does it remain in play as a land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T08:53:43.873" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T08:53:43.873" Title="When a land becomes creature, can you kill it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3762" CreationDate="2011-06-10T03:24:13.553" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus &lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110303202216AA3V72h&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is that land-creatures that are dealt lethal damage go to the graveyard, just like any other creature.  That's the way we've always played it among my friends, and this seems to be what that &quot;turn all lands into 2/2 creatures&quot; card is for -- that and a couple general-damage spells can really hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to being creatures, these cards are also still lands and are affected by land-targeting effects (like Strip Mine).  Because it is a land it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; affected by cards that target &quot;non-land&quot;, like Abrupt Decay. (Hat tip to Ian Pugsley and Rawgramming for these examples in comments.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T14:48:18.213" LastActivityDate="2018-04-19T14:48:18.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3762" CreationDate="2011-06-10T03:48:23.010" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(effective as of November 11, 2016)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;119. Damage&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.1. Objects can deal damage to creatures, planeswalkers, and players. This is generally detrimental to the object or player that receives that damage. An object that deals damage is the source of that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.6. Damage marked on a creature remains until the cleanup step, even if that permanent stops being a creature. If the total damage marked on a creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed as a state-based action (see rule 704). All damage marked on a permanent is removed when it regenerates (see rule 701.13, &amp;quot;Regenerate&amp;quot;) and during the cleanup step (see rule 514.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For absolute clarity, here is part of the rules on &amp;quot;State-Based Actions&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority&amp;quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; otherwise all triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on the stack, then the check is repeated. Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority. This process also occurs during the cleanup step (see rule 514), except that if no state-based actions are performed as the result of the step's first check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, then no player gets priority and the step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the sequence goes like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt (when you have priority), spell goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have priority. If you pass:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent has priority. If they pass:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Bolt resolves. Three damage is applied to land creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's your turn, you have priority, if it's opponent's turn he/she does. Regardless. WHOOP WHOOP game checks for state based effects first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based effect: damage on land creature &amp;gt;= toughness. It is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly can &amp;quot;kill&amp;quot; a land, but &amp;quot;kill&amp;quot; is not the proper Magic term. Over the years Magic has become very specific about the terms used to describe cards, abilities and effects just to avoid &amp;quot;intuitive&amp;quot; confusion like this (how can you kill a land???) The term your friend was looking for was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;701.7. Destroy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.7a To destroy a permanent, move it from the battlefield to its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5Bdestroy%5D+%5Bland%5D+!%5Bnonland%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;plenty of magic cards&lt;/a&gt; which have the words &lt;code&gt;destroy target land&lt;/code&gt; in the rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T17:34:07.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3762" CreationDate="2011-06-10T03:49:34.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it may depend on the effect and the version. For example, if you look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Living Lands&lt;/a&gt;, the ruling is right there on the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Treat all forests in play as 1/1 creatures. Now they can be killed, enchanted, and so forth, and they can be tapped either for mana or to attack. The living lands have no color; they are not considered green cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=177520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creeping Tar Pit&lt;/a&gt;, on the other hand, has the wording that you heard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... Until end of turn, Creeping Tar Pit becomes a 3/2 blue and black Elemental creature and is unblockable. It's still a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm not up on current rules, but to me, the key is to take that last sentence in context. This is what I see: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;becomes a creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is a land&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that &quot;becomes a creature&quot; indicates that it can be targeted by effects that affect creatures, and that &quot;is a land&quot; indicates that it can also be targeted by effects that affect lands. (In other words, it isn't converted into a creature; it is a land and also a creature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T03:49:34.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3762" CreationDate="2011-06-10T10:17:26.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you change a card's type, it loses it's existing types [CR 205.1a]. &amp;quot;It's still a land&amp;quot; makes it so it gains the creature type without losing the land type [CR 205.1b]. As such, it is both a creature and a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be chosen as a creature (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder&quot;&gt;Murder&lt;/a&gt;) and as a land (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Craterize&quot;&gt;Craterize&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be chosen as a noncreature (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bramblecrush&quot;&gt;Bramblecrush&lt;/a&gt;) or as a nonland (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has all traits of a creature. (For example, it has power and toughness, &lt;strong&gt;it is destroyed if it's toughness is non-positive&lt;/strong&gt;, and it is affected by summoning sickness.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has all traits of a land (For example, it can produce mana if it has the basic super type.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1414" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T19:37:49.710" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T19:37:49.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3584" CreationDate="2011-06-10T14:57:02.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you can get both bonuses, is because a charge Boosts the damage roll, while the flanking adds an extra die.  A die roll (damage or attack) can only be boosted once, no matter the source, but can have extra dice added from other rules.  So a boost adds an extra die, but is itself unique - adding an extra die from other effects that do not boost will still add the extra die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, as thesunneversets noted, you cannot get the flanking bonus more than once per damage roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="422" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T14:57:02.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3762" CreationDate="2011-06-10T17:16:21.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;.  There's no reason why a land creature shouldn't be destroyed by any of the various ways that destroy creatures.  Being a land doesn't confer some kind of special immunity on creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can't &lt;em&gt;normally&lt;/em&gt; destroy a land with a Lightning Bolt, but that's only because you can't target a land with a Lightning Bolt, and even if you did, it wouldn't have a toughness score to make sense of the damage assigned to it.  Suppose someone targeted your land creature with a Bolt, and in response you removed the effect that was turning your land into a creature (by Disenchanting Living Lands, perhaps).  At this point the land is once again an illegal target for the Bolt, so the burn spell would be countered by game rules and your land would be safe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus Answer&lt;/strong&gt;: Of course, every rule in Magic has its exceptions.  If you want your creature land to survive taking lethal damage from a Lightning Bolt, you can always play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=108801&quot;&gt;Consecrate Land&lt;/a&gt; on it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-06-10T17:34:26.493" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T17:34:26.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3779" CreationDate="2011-06-10T18:35:37.983" Score="5" ViewCount="1549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have set two goals here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Introduce my wife to board gaming&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve her English. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have personal experience with similar goals that could recommend a best course of action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1260" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:25:21.160" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T20:16:03.320" Title="How can I use Board Games to help learn English?" Tags="|teaching|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2011-06-10T19:08:58.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think getting a few card games that have English on the cards would be an excellent idea.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course, from a game standpoint, you want to make sure that not being conversant with the language isn't much of a hinderance.  You don't want to have to show your hidden cards to get a translation every single turn.  To that end, I've come up with a few suggestions off the top of my head, ranked in order from least to most difficult for a non-English speaker to understand.  All are good 2 player games, and all but the last one play well with more as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt; - There are a few role cards with descriptions of their powers on them, and a bunch of building cards, usually with just the title on them, but there are a few buildings which also have special powers listed on them.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8217/san-juan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Juan&lt;/a&gt; - Each building card has their powers written on them, but there are still only a handful (20-30, IIRC) to deal with.  These blurbs are no more than a few words in each case.  There are a few public-facing role cards as well, again, nothing more than a few words each.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Large dividing line between the first two and these two. Tread carefully.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt; - There are a ton of specialty cards, each of which has a description of their power on them.  Only a fraction of them are used in any game, so you'll have to play a lot to see them all.  (Personal note: I own the German edition, and can vouch for using this game to help learn another language)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27708/1960-the-making-of-the-president&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1960: The Making of a President&lt;/a&gt; -  Ton of cards, ton of flavor text, detailed descriptions of the card's power on each one.  Certainly not a good choice to start out with, but this would be a good test once you need something more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T19:08:58.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2011-06-10T19:09:38.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Germany has a small window in which it can afford to bolster its navy. Presuming the Russians are building a suitable wall in Karelia and the US and UK are planning to shuck-shuck, Germany needs every IPC later in the game to build infantry and armor and cannot afford to build a transport, sub, or (gasp) air craft carrier or battleship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, Germany's only chance to improve her navy is first or second turn. Moreover, she must build it in the Mediterranean Sea, as attempting to build a navy in the Baltic Sea Zone is suicide given the proximity to UK and Russia's air forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without that extra Mediterranean transport, Germany's options in Africa are limited (presuming the Allies make it a priority to eradicate the German navy). The transport buys a little insurance for Germany, an extra few turns in which it has to secure Africa and enjoy her IPCs before the Allies come storming into Algeria. And if the UK player is bent on building a South African factory that second transport is a requisite to have any hope in taking it out before enough of a defense can be constructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you think this strategy works, what does it change about your first turn German attacks (i.e. presumably your med Battleship and Transport do not engage in naval battles, so how do you re-balance your attacks accordingly)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I almost always use Don Rae's suggested first turn buying advice for Germany: purchase a transport and 8 infantry. Since this immobilizes my battleship and transport, I use a sub and fighter to off the British battleship and a bomber to nix the sub.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those attacks fail, Germany is pretty much screwed, though. That's one thing I dislike about Axis &amp;amp; Allies in general - the first turn or two really has rippling effects through the rest of the game. A couple of bad dice rolls in the early game almost guarantees defeat, especially as the Axis where the margin for error is so narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T19:09:38.570" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2011-06-10T20:18:42.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion might work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you start with just the basic set you can limit the diversity of Kingdom cards to keep it from being overwhelming. Then as she becomes comfortable with the contents of one set you can add an expansion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The basic concepts of counting money and actions and buys have symbols and numbers to help make up for the language barrier. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That said, the game is very careful about how verbs (such as discard, trash, gain, reveal, etc.) are used. That might be useful in terms of practically teaching the subtle differences between these words.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards in your hand at any given time may be secret, but the cards available in the game are there for everyone to see, so she can ask for help (hey, what's that card mean again) without giving up what's in her hand. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The English comprehension isn't really that critical to winning so she might be able to give you a run for your money despite your fluency.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T20:18:42.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3781" CreationDate="2011-06-10T20:37:29.067" Score="1" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently reminded of the childhood naval game &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1508/broadside&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Broadside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. As the defender, you get to place four shore guns and six mines during the setup phase, one on either side of two channels. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/97rT0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mine and shore gun placement in Broadside&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The channels are choke points that the attackers ships have to pass through to be able to win the game; one is close to the attacking fleet starting location and represents a direct path to the merchant ships they need to sink to win the game, while the other channel is out of their way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is that two of the guns are useless decoys, while the other two get a free shot on any ships that passes within range, and three of the mines can destroy an entire ship, while the other three are duds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone who remembers this game ever develop a strategy for how to place these static defensive units, and if so, how did that change how you deployed your blue fleet once the game started?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T11:47:10.393" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T11:47:10.393" Title="In Broadside, what is your strategy for placing the shore guns and mines during setup?" Tags="|broadside|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2011-06-10T20:46:05.710" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34119/tales-of-the-arabian-nights&quot;&gt;Tales of the Arabian Nights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game has a ton of reading, but simple mechanics. You'll be getting a fun game, and an English exercise at the same time. Your wife will practice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reading English text aloud&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Listening to English (when others read)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reading English text silently (from cards / other private information sources)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conversing in English (playing the game!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T20:46:05.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2011-06-10T22:14:51.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I liked to put my good mines on one side of the board, and my good guns on the other side of the board. Then place my ships where their &quot;broadsides&quot; could cover the channels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I remember, the British fleet had 25 sails, the American only 20. But the guns and mines more than make up for it, for the Americans. Inevitably, the British ships lost sails to the guns. One or two would also hit a &quot;live&quot; mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T22:14:51.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2011-06-10T22:33:52.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ordinarily, I'd say, leave one infantry in the country. But if it is about to be attacked by overwhelming force, them it might make sense to pull it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason is to establish a &quot;line of retreat.&quot; That is, you, as the UK, pull forces out of India in the early going to have an infantry in Persia, one in Syria, all the way to Egypt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the other thing to think about is that the opponent who concentrated the overwhelming force may be doing so as a bluff, planning to move heavily in another direction, and glad to get a &quot;free&quot; territory for one infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T22:33:52.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="343" CreationDate="2011-06-10T22:44:21.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Contract Bridge and Duplicate Bridge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking the modern form of the game was devised around 1925 (by Harold S Vanderbilt). There were variants earlier like auction bridge, which don't fall into the past century category I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every point you speak of is true for bridge (concentrating mainly on USA).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tournaments: USA itself holds nationals at least two times a year, with a world championship (Bermuda Bowl) held every 2 years, at different locations in the world. Many countries have their own set of tournaments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranking System: ACBL (American Contract Bridge League) has a masterpoint system with milestones like Master, Life Master etc. World Bridge Federation also seems to have a ranking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the 1950s/60 etc Bridge was one of the major games getting media coverage. This has declined, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too many books, magazines devoted to bridge. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least two competing online bridge sites (BBO and okbridge). There are also software like Jack and GIB which are designed to play and teach. There are even computer player only tournaments where these software like Jack compete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mainly popular outside traditional gamer groups.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Almost every major city in the US has at least one club which holds weekly games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T22:44:21.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4725" CreationDate="2011-06-10T23:12:48.647" Score="9" ViewCount="1279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gone to a few FNM drafts, and it's structured as three qualifying matches, followed by a single-elimination tournament for the top 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all these games affect your DCI rating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T21:49:52.117" Title="Do Friday Night Magic games count toward your DCI rating?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3784" CreationDate="2011-06-10T23:19:50.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes they do, but they have less impact on your rating, and a less serious level of rules enforcement, than tournaments at a higher level of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Wizards site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FNM events are 8k tournaments and have&#xA;  a Regular Rules Enforcement Level&#xA;  (REL).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how that 8k figure factors into the calculation of your rating change after winning/losing a watch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;The Elo player-rating system compares players’ match records against&#xA;their opponents’ match records and determines the probability of the player&#xA;winning the matchup. This probability factor determines how many points a&#xA;players’ rating goes up or down based on the results of each match. When a&#xA;player defeats an opponent with a higher rating, the player’s rating goes up&#xA;more than if he or she defeated a player with a lower rating (since players&#xA;should defeat opponents who have lower ratings). All new players start out&#xA;with a base rating of 1600. The DCI uses the following equation to determine&#xA;a player’s win probability in each match:&#xA;&#xA;Personal Calculation: &#xA;                              1&#xA;Win Probability = --------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;              10^(( Opponent’s Rating–Player’s Rating)/400) + 1&#xA;&#xA;This probability is then used to recalculate each player’s rating after the&#xA;match. In the equation below, players receive 1 point if they win the match, 0&#xA;if they lose, and 0.5 for a draw. Players’ new ratings are determined as&#xA;follows:&#xA;&#xA;Player’s New Rating = Player’s Old Rating + (K-Value * (Scoring Points–Player’s&#xA;Win Probability))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, there are lots of more competitive tournaments at the 16k level, and Premium tournaments are at 32k!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-10T23:19:50.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3787" CreationDate="2011-06-11T00:17:56.423" Score="10" ViewCount="7782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought that &lt;strong&gt;Go&lt;/strong&gt; was played by trying to place 5 of your pieces in a row while blocking your opponent from doing so, but I just recently looked up the rules, and it's completely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the game I was playing real? What is its name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastEditorUserId="27374" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T01:08:13.520" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T01:08:13.520" Title="What is this game that's similar to Go?" Tags="|identify-this-game|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2011-06-11T00:24:51.587" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two strong possibilities that are both played on a 19x19 board, &lt;strong&gt;Pente&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Go Moku&lt;/strong&gt;. Both have as a goal to get 5 in a row.  Pente also allows capturing and you can win by capturing 5 pairs of stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1295/pente&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pente&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9midX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty good game, I had it confused with &lt;strong&gt;Go&lt;/strong&gt; for the longest time as well.  There have been a bunch of editions over the years, you shouldn't have any trouble finding a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T02:35:15.693" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T02:35:15.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3786" CreationDate="2011-06-11T00:41:58.747" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the name of your game is Go Moku. That is the &quot;five in a row&quot; game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really similar to Go, except in terms of the name. It can, however, be played on a Go board with black and white stones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the objectives and criteria for winning are totally different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T00:41:58.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3789" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-11T01:32:28.773" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T01:32:28.773" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T01:32:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3790" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-11T01:32:28.773" Score="0" Body="Questions about probabilistic game mechanics and how to calculate and estimate random events, as well as how probability affects games and gameplay." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T02:11:50.627" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T02:11:50.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3778" CreationDate="2011-06-11T02:11:06.660" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was decades ago for me but I remember that I would send a cutter through the middle where both guns would shoot. If both were there I lost 1 sail and if none I was through clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T02:11:06.660" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3427" CreationDate="2011-06-11T02:27:26.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have played something similar that we call &quot;Justification.&quot; Each player makes ten cards (each with a title and a picture), and they are shuffled and dealt out. You then take turns going around and playing a card. You have to justify why your card beats the previous card, subject to the general agreement of the rest of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ex: I play a chair. The next player plays a sumo wrestler, who breaks the chair. A cheetah outruns the sumo wrestler. A zombie eats the cheetah...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're stuck for ideas for new cards, or if your deck is full of one-use cards, you can do this: Draw two cards at random. Make a new card that beats the first card but can be beaten by the second card. Sometimes you have to be really creative!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1408" LastEditorUserId="1408" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T14:48:08.863" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T14:48:08.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-11T02:59:22.233" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a question about strategies for &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3778/in-broadside-what-is-your-strategy-for-placing-the-shore-guns-and-mines-during-s&quot;&gt;deploying the fixed defenses&lt;/a&gt; in Broadside. As the attacker, how do you deal with the cannons and mines? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cannons can't be defeated. The best you can do is try and probe the setup to determine where the decoys are, but how do you do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What class of ship do you use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you pick a channel to send the fleet through and hope both guns aren't located there, or do you send scout ships ahead and then move the rest of the fleet based on what you find?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mines are single use so once they're revealed they're cleared from the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you move around the mines or do you try and clear them out?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What class of ship do you use to clear them with? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you ever just try and completely avoid them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T14:46:58.770" Title="In Broadside, what methods are most effective for probing and/or circumventing the fixed defenses?" Tags="|broadside|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2011-06-11T08:52:55.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently played&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adventurer,&#xA;Bureaucrat,&#xA;Cellar,&#xA;Chapel,&#xA;Throne Room,&#xA;Festival,&#xA;Workshop,&#xA;Remodel,&#xA;Laboratory,&#xA;Smithy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a couple of times and found it was seemed to work particularly well, kind of like the  recommended beginner set ups. It has decent cards for a number of different strategies (Cellar/Remodel for a dense small hand), Festival for chaining actions (though maybe Workshop should be replaced with Village). Throne room is nice with most of the cards present, Bureaucrat provides a mild offensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T08:52:55.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3793" CreationDate="2011-06-11T14:46:58.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I remember, the British had several ships with a &quot;mast&quot; of 1. These ships are the best for. first, scouting the cannon, and if they survive, hitting a mine, because you lose the least sail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The British have something like 25 sail to 20 for the Americans. Basically, the task of the British is to &quot;figure out&quot; the American defenses while losing less than 5 sail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I last played the game over 40 years ago, yes, I'm that old.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T14:46:58.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3796" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-11T15:14:16.020" Score="11" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I was in Diplomacy game with two experienced players, one intermediate (me), and four people who had never played the game before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it were, the two best players drew England and Turkey, and ran all over the board. Two of the new ones ended up with Italy and Austria-Hungary. &quot;Italy,&quot; in particular complained, &quot;I didn't know what I was doing the whole game.&quot; Meaning he wasn't about to play it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;England, France, Russia, and Turkey are relatively easy to play because they are in the corners of the board. Germany, Austria, and Italy are much harder because they are in the center, and more easily surrounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had it to do again, I would have had the four newbies draw for the &quot;corner&quot; countries, and the three veterans draw for the three &quot;center&quot; countries. Would such a plan have made it a better, more balanced, game? And more fun for the newcomers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T22:07:40.497" Title="In Diplomacy, Should You Have Separate Country &quot;Draws&quot; For Players of Different Experience?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2011-06-11T15:27:36.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend Diplomacy (normally a seven player game). Make Italy a &quot;neutral,&quot; and place single armies  (that can be supported by other countries) to defend her cities. This corresponds with historical reality (Italy was a neutral country for a year in World War I.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Italy is the country people enjoy playing LEAST. In this regard, you don't lose anything by eliminating it. And it actually speeds up the game by having one less player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diplomacy also has &quot;parallel phases and lots of interaction between turns.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T15:27:36.100" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-11T15:27:36.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3296" CreationDate="2011-06-11T17:53:02.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I do is ask, what trumps are outstanding. They are 9873. That means I can draw them with four leads, but need to be careful about low trumps being overruffed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing I do is ask, which honors are outstanding. They are: QJ of spades, AKQ of diamonds, and Q of clubs. My AK opposite a doubleton takes care of the spades. I can trump the diamonds. My main worry, ironically, is the Q of clubs. But if that's my ONLY loss, I make six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how: 1) Ruff the diamond lead. 2 Draw all four trumps with AKQJ, discarding the diamond from dummy. You have one trump left in hand. 3) Take AK of clubs. 4) Lead J of clubs. If the queen hasn't dropped already, someone will take it. You have made seven tricks, lost one, have five more to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponents are out of trumps because you've drawn them. Realize that they only have four clubs between them, because you have nine. If they lead their last club, capture it with the 10 in dummy. Play AK of spades, ruff a spade in hand, then win the last club (five tricks). If they lead a diamond, ruff in hand, discarding the T of clubs from dummy. Lead the last two clubs (from hand), then cross over to the AK of spades (five tricks). If they lead spades, win the AK of spades. Win the T of clubs, then cross to hand with a spade ruff, and win the last club (five tricks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how I counted trumps, clubs, tricks, honors, etc. This process is at least as important as winning the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-11T18:11:16.443" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T18:11:16.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-11T21:52:37.887" Score="3" ViewCount="2593" Body="&lt;p&gt;This summer we have company staying with us, and they greatly enjoy playing Boggle. I'm looking to spice things up a bit, though - any ideas for Boggle variations that we can try? There will be two to four of us playing at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-09-11T15:49:12.827" LastActivityDate="2020-09-11T15:49:12.827" Title="Boggle variations?" Tags="|variants|boggle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-09-11T15:58:47.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3799" CreationDate="2011-06-11T22:32:04.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few Boggle variants I've heard of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scrabble-style:  Lose the timer - take turns making words, end game when (n) words made (try about 20 to begin with).  You cannot repeat a word already made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Collapsing Boggle:  Use a shorter timer.  After it runs out, remove 1 die at random and keep going.  Remove another die and have a third (and final) run through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Selective Boggle:  After the dice are placed, each player may rotate one die to a different side.  (For a milder version, have one player rotate one die, changing players each round.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Generous Boggle: Allow each die to be used multiple times in one word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scatter Boggle: Only try this with a large size 5x5 Boggle set.  Instead of being adjacent, each die in the word must NOT be adjacent horizontally or vertically.  (Don't count diagonals with this variant; there won't be enough options.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just invented one more while typing, so this is &lt;em&gt;completely&lt;/em&gt; untested, and may not even make sense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Apples to Boggles.  Get an Apples to Apples set and play it, except that instead of picking a noun from your hand to match the topic for the round, you have to pick a word from the Boggle board to match, and convince people it's the best candidate as usual.  First person to call a word gets it as her &amp;quot;apple&amp;quot; for the round.  (Definitely use the &amp;quot;generous&amp;quot; rule above for this one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-11T22:32:04.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-11T23:39:09.563" Score="2" ViewCount="5547" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to calculate various probabilities that would be useful for Settlers of Catan.  So far I've tabulated the probability of rolling X in Y turns, the probability of rolling X before Y, and the probability of drawing a victory point within X tries given knowledge of Y knights / progress cards in play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you guys think of any other data / calculations that would be useful for Settlers of Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] Another calculation I've found extremely useful is &quot;how many of each resource do you need to win the game, assuming you're going for X&quot;.  I'd love to hear more ideas though, and I don't care how hard / tedious they are to calculate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastEditorUserId="1421" LastEditDate="2011-06-26T21:04:25.390" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:43:24.617" Title="Useful Settlers of Catan calculations?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-21T19:49:54.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-11T23:45:20.537" Score="10" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was learning to play Go, recording and reviewing my games helped me improve rapidly.  I'd like to do something similar for Settlers of Catan, but it's obviously much more difficult to record Settlers games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do you / would you guys go about recording games (in enough detail to reproduce the entire game verbatim)?  Have any of you had success doing this in the past?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T17:48:45.757" Title="Recording Settlers of Catan games?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3805" CreationDate="2011-06-12T00:29:45.630" Score="20" ViewCount="3725" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since most moves in Catan are public knowledge, one could count cards and keep track of the opponents' hands at all time.  However, it seems that there are a few obstacles to doing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have any of you had success in card counting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, how do you get around obstacles like under the table trades, discards when a 7 is rolled, and randomized robbing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-06-10T07:11:37.967" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T07:12:10.537" Title="Counting cards in Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2011-06-12T01:36:09.807" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried counting cards while playing Catan, and I've really found it a needless distraction.  It really isn't worth the effort to know that Player X has exactly 4 Ore, a Grain and a Sheep in their hand.  It gets much too confusing too quickly, especially when you throw in robbing and trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I focus only on counting my most scarce resource.  Since that's almost always the one I would try to steal or trade for, that information is valuable enough to make the effort for.  There are relatively few of that good in circulation, so keeping tabs on them as people buy, trade, and build with them is much easier.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-06-10T07:12:10.537" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T07:12:10.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3796" CreationDate="2011-06-12T12:48:06.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it would've changed the outcome at all.  A strong player will walk all over weak ones regardless of which country they are assigned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better plan might be to play several &quot;mini-games&quot;.  Play for the most centers at the end of 1904, then take 15 minutes to &quot;debrief&quot; so that the newer players can get an idea of the strategy that was going on &quot;behind their backs&quot;.  Draw for new countries, and repeat, maybe playing a little longer this time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that their entire day isn't ruined by a bad start and that they only have to wait a little while to start over should keep you from losing the new players, and the experienced players should be challenged by trying to repeatedly pull off strong showings.  While ending at a particular year does result in some weird tactics toward the end, it should still serve as a good learning session that hopefully leaves everyone wanting more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T12:48:06.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3802" CreationDate="2011-06-12T17:20:45.950" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen an established lexicon for recording Settlers games, but I bet you could gin one up pretty quickly that would be able to capture everything of note. Here are the major things I think you'd need to capture and my ideas on some compact notation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Board setup&lt;/strong&gt;. The tiles types are randomized, but the letters always play out in the same order. I'd just create a list with all the letters and then in table format list the tile time under that letter during your setup. Insert a row with no letter for where the desert is located. For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A Sheep&#xA;B Ore&#xA;Desert&#xA;C Wheat&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From here on out, you can use the letters as the signposts for where the action is happening. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intersection pieces (e.g. cities) are recorded by the letters of the three surrounding tiles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roads only require two letters. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then number the players by starting order and record the staring information (i.e. settlement location). Now just record the bare minimum of action as the game progresses. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Turn 1, Player 1 &#xA;Roll: 6 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No need to record what each player drew as that can be determine based on the board setup. Record any trades. Ports can just be player 0, where the ratio will tell you if it was a generic or specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P4: 1S, 1O; P3: 2W&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Record any builds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Road: B,D&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the information to be captured is going to be exactly the same each game, I bet you could create a blank spreadsheet or table to help ensure you didn't forget anything important. It could have an area for the setup information and then columns for each player and each turn (that could just continue as long as required by the game). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't really discuss the private knowledge aspect of Settlers: the cards. This represents the most challenging aspect to capture in the game log because cards are private knowledge. (I'm assuming you don't have someone not playing who is dedicated to recording the game.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I suggest recording in the game log when a given player obtains a card, and then having each player record the cards they pull in order. Once the game is over, you can augment the official log with the notes from each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T02:50:08.457" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T02:50:08.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3809" CreationDate="2011-06-12T17:30:47.540" Score="6" ViewCount="3680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to play board games with friends who live in other states.  I thought I could use Skype to communicate and a webcam to send out a picture of the board.  Does anyone have suggestions on how to handle cards that are dealt to different players?  For example, if I were playing Risk, how could a player be dealt a Risk card without someone else knowing what card was dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1425" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T19:25:18.750" Title="What is the best way to play with someone in another location?" Tags="|online|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2011-06-12T17:56:00.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you say, it is quite difficult to keep things a secret in this style of play, unless you have a referee who controls the game, and tells you what you can and can't know (just like how a computer would do so in an online version). This isn't much fun for the referee though, as they obviously wouldn't be able to play as they would have total knowledge of the game state!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best option is to play online, rather than play with the real board game. There are several questions on this site already about good sites to use, but here is a community maintained list of the best resources online for playing games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1594/boardgaming-online&quot;&gt;Boardgaming Online&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T17:56:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2011-06-12T18:23:16.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For board games, there are many options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest is the java-client or flash-client website option, tho' it can be hard to meet up your friends in some. Examples include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gametableonline.com/welcome.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game Table Online&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brettspielwelt.de/?nation=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Brett Spiel Welt&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1594/boardgaming-online&quot;&gt;Board Gaming Online&lt;/a&gt;, and several others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, a better option for friends is one of the dedicated virtual table top clients. Two have pretty good penetration: &lt;a href=&quot;http://vassalengine.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vassal&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyberboard.brainiac.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cyberboard&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few game companies, most notably Amarillo Design Bureau and Days of Wonder, have their own online play systems for their flagship games. SFBOL and FCOL are both through a separate company but licensed for online play by ADB; both at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sfbonline.com/index.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sfbonline.com&lt;/a&gt;; it's a subscription model. Days of Wonder has Ticket To Ride Online, and then fist of dragonstones, queen's necklace, and gang of four as sweeteners. TTRO is pay per module lifetime access (now); it used to be pay for membership and access all for a time-limited subscription.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several others have &quot;official modules&quot; for certain games, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zuntsu.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZunTsu&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hpssims.com/pages/products/adc2/ADC2-Main.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aide de Camp 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One recent challenger is Battlegrounds; can't say anything about their software, good or ill... but their list of VTT's for both RPG and boardgames is impressive, if filled with dead links (and marked as such).&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.battlegroundsgames.com/links.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.battlegroundsgames.com/links.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T18:23:16.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2011-06-12T19:39:57.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Play by Email (PBEM)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of board games around which a play-by-email communities have sprung up. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pbm.com/%7Elindahl/pbm_list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; appears to have a list of hundreds of games that have been adapted to distance play and links to help you get started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I've played A&amp;amp;A by email over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://aamc.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AAMC.net&lt;/a&gt;, which has a entire player ladder, ranking system, and server that logs games and rolls dice (to eliminate the tedium of documenting real rolls and the problem of how to prevent cheating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of these communities have established combat nomenclature for communicating moves and other information to the other player(s)--somewhat akin to chess or go notation. Furthermore, they typically have message boards to help PBEM newbies get started and/or find people to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T19:39:57.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3817" CreationDate="2011-06-12T21:51:42.977" Score="10" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a NT contract. After the initial rounds of play, the last few (visible) cards were something like these in two suits (call them spades and hearts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;dummy:&#xA;spades KJx&#xA;Hearts xxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me:&#xA;Spades Ax&#xA;Hearts AKQx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had five &quot;top&quot; tricks, but needed six to make game. I could play out AKQ and hope that the hearts were split 3-3, a 36% chance. Or I could take the spade finesse, a 50% chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I took the spade finesse and lost. A passerby commented that I would have been &quot;odds on&quot; (better than 50-50), if I had &quot;combined my chances.&quot; Apparently, I needed to start with hearts, though. Then he left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What did he mean by &quot;combining my chances&quot;? And why would I start with the lesser (36%) chance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T13:18:19.453" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T13:18:19.453" Title="In Bridge Play, What is Meant by &quot;Combining Your Chances?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2011-06-12T22:48:15.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two ways of making your sixth trick given this ending.  You can find the outstanding hearts divided 3-3, or you can find the spade Queen onside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty is that you can take both chances.  First, play the hearts.  If they break 3-3 (or somebody has done some lousy discarding in the build up to this end position), you're set for your sixth trick with your baby heart.  If they do not break, you can then play the Ace of Spades (in case somebody has the singleton Queen), and finesse the Jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your chance of success now are the 36% chance the hearts split, and the 50% of the time that the Spade Queen is onside in the case that the hearts do not break, or:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;36% + (50%) * (64%) = 68%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you have to start with the Hearts.  Testing the hearts does not result in the loss of a trick, it only establishes a trick for the opponents if the suit does not break.  Testing the Spade finesse will lose a trick if it is not correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T22:48:15.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3801" CreationDate="2011-06-12T22:51:57.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some useful calculations: &lt;a href=&quot;http://divisbyzero.com/2010/01/06/playing-the-probabilities-in-settlers-of-catan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Playing the probabilities in Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-12T22:51:57.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3821" CreationDate="2011-06-13T00:09:51.907" Score="11" ViewCount="1130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you ever tried playing Small World with visible VP ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sometimes frustrates me to discover in the end that some player had much more or less VP that we expected. Memorizing the VP count for every player is feasible but requires so much concentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequences I envisaged :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;game might take longer because of added strategic thinking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new players may get earlier the feeling of which strategy is successful and also who they should attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;less talk during turns &quot;you should attack him, not me since he made 14 points last turn&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your experiences or feelings with this variant ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T16:57:59.320" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T18:39:03.340" Title="Small World : purpose of hiding VP" Tags="|house-rules|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3813" CreationDate="2011-06-13T02:09:39.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you have a few chances to make your contract (like in your example, hearts 3-3 or spade finesse). Combining chances mean timing the play in such an order such that the failure of any chance to materialize still allows you to take the next chance. Even though you might start with a lower chance, it allows you to take another shot rather than ending there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do the math, this comes out to 1 - (1-c1)(1-c2)...(1-cn) where the chances of success of each chance are c1, c2, ..., cn and assuming the chances are independent. This is larger than any single chance (or a strict subset of chances). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in 3NT. LHO leads a spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;xxx&#xA;AKQx&#xA;Jxx&#xA;JTx&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;A&#xA;xxx&#xA;AKxxx&#xA;AKxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to win this (top hand is dummy, bottom is declarer and suit order is spades, hearts, diamonds, clubs from top to bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 8 top tricks and need just one more without losing the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have three major chances: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hearts 3-3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diamond Q dropping in two rounds (diamond finesse is a practice finesse).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;club finesse &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a minor club Q dropping singleton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You test for club Q singlton, no luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the correct play is to test diamonds first, then test hearts and then take club finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that if diamond Q does not drop in 2 rounds, you can still test hearts. If the hearts don't break 3-3, you can still take the club finesse: thus combining all your chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine if you had taken the club finesse and it loses. Now you are down, without getting to test the diamonds or hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you have to test diamonds first. If you test hearts first, and then diamonds, then you are in the wrong hand and cannot take the club finesse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another example, where you have to take a finesse first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in 6S. LHO leads a trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;KQxxx&#xA;AQ&#xA;AQ&#xA;AKxx&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;AJTxxxx&#xA;xx&#xA;x&#xA;xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 11 winners and need one more. Now your major chances are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heart finesse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diamond finesse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;clubs 3-3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct order of play is to try the diamond finesse first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that loses, you can now discard a club from hand on the diamond A, play AK clubs and ruff a club, thus testing for clubs 3-3. If that fails, you fall back on the heart finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you cannot time the play in any other order. If you test clubs first, and it fails, you are now committed to guessing which finesse to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take a heart finesse first, then you cannot test for clubs 3-3 and are forced to fall back on diamond finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-06-13T02:35:27.627" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T02:35:27.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2351" CreationDate="2011-06-13T14:47:36.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I worked through the seven questions myself when I first bought them game, but as I don't remember the answers right off the top of my head, I'll preface this answer with the statement that I've gotten the following answers off of a thread BoardGameGeek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 1:&lt;/strong&gt; If you have to gain more evil than evilometer allows you, you are not gaining any. Can this theoretically happen in the second round of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On round 1 and 2 you play food, getting on the third space (in round one two people do it before your first placement). Thats 4 evil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On round 2 title envy event occurs. You collect 1 evil per title, for the following: &#xA;Most evil (from your 4 evil from food)&#xA;Most room (1 vs 0/0/0)&#xA;Most tunnels (You dug 2, no one else dug, 4/3/3/3 after the room)&#xA;Most monsters (1 vs 0/0/0)&#xA;Most imps (4 vs 0/0/0)&#xA;Most resources (you gained off the food, they spent some if needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you cannot collect 'fewest conquered tiles'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats 10 evil, maxing you out, but we still need one more, so your Monster that you recruited is a Witch for one evil. (Vampire not needed. Ghost doesnt count as a monster for monsterlord). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your three actions each round combine to these 6 actions:&#xA;Food, Food, Tunnel, Imps, Monster, Room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We go above the top of the evilometer on Title Envy when the final title is awarded. (Note: that Witch recruit was before the title payout, so yes it works).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 2:&lt;/strong&gt; What is the theoretical maximum number of imps a player can accumulate during a 4 player game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;30&#xA;3 from the beginning of the game, 12 from magic room (4 x 1 in first year, 4 x 2 in second year), 15 from actions (the player have to take imps as first action each round except last round, so he will be at least once first and so obtain only one imp 7 x 2 + 1 x 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 3:&lt;/strong&gt; What is the highest possible damage one trap can deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nine. Poisonous food used onto eight life adventurer with one extra life because of magic food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 4:&lt;/strong&gt; Can it happen that an illusionary hero created by Second Year’s Illusion spell survives a combat round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, it can survive even a round in which was party conquering.&#xA;1st round – illusion is created. Party doesn’t conquer.&#xA;2nd round – illusion is boosted by magic food. Party doesn’t conquer.&#xA;3rd round – illusion survives one fatigue from conquering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 5&lt;/strong&gt; What is the theoretical maximum number of actually healed damage in a single round of combat if there is no paladin involved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ten. Party composed from two priests with three hearts each and one wizard (three casting symbols). Initially an illusionary hero with two wounds is created (analogical to previous answer) in first two rounds. Also some damage is dealt among the adventures. In the third round slime hits the party, the wizard casts healing spell and one wound is healed to each member of the party including the illusionary hero. Two priests heal the rest six wounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 6&lt;/strong&gt; What is the lowest possible score you can achieve in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-72. You can have sixteen tunnels which results in 8 x -3 points each year for unpaid taxes. Nine tunnels were destroyed by adventures 9 x -2 (once double conquering because of the spell) and the visiting minister of Dungeons was hungry (2 x -3).&#xA;Summary: -48 (unpaid taxes) -18 (destroyed tunnels) – 6 (visiting minister) = -72&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 7&lt;/strong&gt; It is start of the last round of a 2 player game (fall of Second Year) and opponent has no production room. If scored now, you would win all 7 exclusive titles. May it happen you score no title (exclusive nor shared) at the end of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, even if your opponent does not perform one of his minion actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First player has all titles, second has none.&#xA;Second player dig four tunnels as his first action and hire monster as second action. First player’s actions are chosen so that they do not interfere with loosing titles.&#xA;Special event is an Earthquake. First player looses two rooms, second player looses two tunnels (Other option is the Extra tax special event).&#xA;The Lord of Dark Deeds – lost in the combat (because of destroyed tiles)&#xA;The Lord of Halls – lost because of an Earthquake&#xA;The Tunnellord – lost by the only minion action of the second player&#xA;The Monsterlord – lost in the combat (because of Dimensional gate)&#xA;The Lord of Imps – lost in the combat (two or three Kamikadze Ims)&#xA;The Lord of Riches – lost in the combat (two or more traps used)&#xA;The Battlelord – lost in the combat (because of destroyed tiles)&#xA;Second player doesn’t loose any tile or monster in the combat and he uses no traps (For example party of a paladin and three rogues (the case the first player has taken action Improve Reputation so the second player is the most evil from the beginning of the combat), first round a daemon and a dragon in the Anti-magic Room, second round a goblin finishes the three wounded rogues in Training Room).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T14:47:36.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3845" CreationDate="2011-06-13T18:27:40.173" Score="5" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Left hand opponent opened 1 heart.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partner doubled for takeout.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right hand opponent passed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I &amp;quot;had to&amp;quot; bid 2 clubs with something like:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(S) xxx (H) xx (D) Jxxx (C) Jxxx.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were doubled for penalties, and went down five (vulnerable), after partner partner laid down:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(S) Axxx (H) Kxx (D) Kxx (C) Qxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In defending the takeout double, partner said, &amp;quot;I had 12 points and four spades. That's a standard takeout double.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said, &amp;quot;I need 14 points for a vulnerable takeout. I don't even consider your hand worth 12 points (even though technically that's the case), because of the 4-3-3-3 distribution.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What bothered me most about the double was not the minimum point count, but the &amp;quot;stranded&amp;quot; king, and three cards in the opponents' suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give partner a better distribution by changing her hand to  something like:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(S) Axxxx (H) - (D) KQxx (C) Kxxx&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;and I wouldn't have complained. Because all her &amp;quot;values&amp;quot; would have been OUTSIDE the opponents' suit, for offense, not defense.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(FWIW, Kaplan and Rubens evaluates this hand as 15 points, and the actual hand at 11 points because of the flat distribution and stranded honors. That's true, even though the traditional Milton Work count for both hands is 12 points.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was partner right to make the double?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or was I right to protest it?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Is vulnerability the deciding factor?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In either case, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2023-02-10T18:36:20.973" LastActivityDate="2023-02-10T18:36:20.973" Title="Do you count defensive points in the opponents' suit when making a takeout double?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3816" CreationDate="2011-06-13T18:39:03.340" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Vinci&lt;/strong&gt;, the original game that &lt;strong&gt;Small World&lt;/strong&gt; is based on, VPs are open.  In that game it can lead to end game kingmaker effects where a player can't possibly win, but can decide who does win based on who they attack.  With hidden VPs, the kingmaker effect is still there but its less obvious, as players who aren't precisely tracking every VP won't know when a particular attack will make a difference of who wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T18:39:03.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-06-13T18:58:03.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you both bid fine and don't really have to over-analyse your loss.  Your partner had a bare minimum for a take-out double, with only three card support in the unbid suits; but a takeout double is forcing, and your bare minimum response was also appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems unfortunate that you turned out to have absolutely the worst possible hand on both sides; but on the bright side, 5 down doubled is not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; the worst given that your opponents had almost certain game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T18:58:03.307" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-06-13T19:26:49.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Entire books could be written (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0939460270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;and have&lt;/a&gt;) about how to evaluate your hand beyond a simple count of High Card Points, so a full treatise on this subject is outside the scope of this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bare King is not great, but since your LHO opened the bidding and will have length in that suit, he will wind up having the Ace more often than his partner.  Thus, you could anticipate the King likely worth a trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The double is fine, and rates to gain a lot if you have four spades, or the heart Ace, or length in a minor and shortness in hearts.  Sometimes, you go down.  Sometimes, things would have worked out better if you kept your mouth shut.  However, if you wait to bid until you are certain that you won't go down a packet, you will miss a ton of profitable situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2011-06-13T19:26:49.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3746" CreationDate="2011-06-14T03:24:35.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes IPM can stalemate a game, but No, not in the beginning&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the infantry push mechanic (IPM) can lead to stalemated games, but not in the early going. Rather, the game is dynamic and the board ever-changing en route to a stalemate after 5-7 turns. I've had this happen numerous times via two different playouts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traditional shuck-shuck&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both the &lt;strong&gt;Axis and Allies follow a basic IPM&lt;/strong&gt; strategy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germany's objectives&lt;/strong&gt; are to take and hold Africa as long as possible, maintain a solid front in Eastern Europe while occasionally trading the Ukraine with Russia and fending off a large-scale invasion of France.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The US and UK&lt;/strong&gt; set up the shuck-shuck and try and take back Africa, plow infantry into Russia via Finland, and set up for an invasion of France.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt; builds a fortress on their western front and slows Japan's inevitable advance as much as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Japan&lt;/strong&gt; goes full-bore in Asia: advancing as quickly as possible to Moscow to take the pressure off Germany.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players execute their strategies well this game can reach a stalemate in terms of it taking a very long time to decide the game; however, this should not be confused with the game being static. Germany steadily loses territory and Japan steadily gains it so &lt;strong&gt;the map is fluid; it's simply that no side can gain a edge&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Germany can hold Africa for a reasonable amount of time, and if Japan expands quickly enough, the Axis will have IPC parity with the Allies. If this happens, both sides can stack up their infantry equally fast, which makes it difficult for either side to launch a successful attack because A&amp;amp;A combat is biased towards the defender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually the Allies will capture Germany, but a large enough stack of infantry and clever counter-attacking can make this very slow going for the allies. If timed right, Germany can give Japan enough time to capture Moscow just before Germany is eliminated. If this happens, Japan can sometimes expand so quickly into Europe that they alone are close to IPC parity with the US and UK. Japan is now effectively playing a Russian strategy in Karelia and German one in Africa and trying to keep it's IPC count high. If the US and UK can  get a solid enough foothold in Europe to start pumping out tanks from the German and Italian factories they will eventually win, but as long as Japan is able to counter and occasionally re-capture Italy (and/or harass the US in the Pacific) the game can keep plowing along with neither side gaining an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen Japan win if Germany falls, but I've seen it take 6 or 7 turns after Germany's fall before it was clear that they weren't going to pull it out, and I have seen the Axis win if Japan gets to Eastern Europe in time to reinforce the Fatherland.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Asia double factories&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;US builds a factory in Sinkiang and the UK in India&lt;/strong&gt; so they can pump out five armor a turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russian&lt;/strong&gt; aids in the north with infantry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All three allies&lt;/strong&gt; provide Asian air support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This three-pronged attack can effectively stop the Japanese advance in Asia. (I've even pushed Japan on the continent before using this strategy--although it didn't stick.) However, it obviously takes the pressure off Germany quite a bit and significantly delays both the start of and the magnitude of the shuck-shuck (two tanks per turn in Sinkiang is 3 less infantry in Europe; the UK has less income and one more tank to buy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game can stalemate with Japan unable to get a solid foothold in Asia and Germany able to keep and hold Africa (making up for Japan's failure) but unable to crack the Russian nut in Karelia (the US does reach 7 infantry a turn steady-state after all).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both methods can reach stalemate if the IPCs are near parity&lt;/strong&gt; because it is near impossible to attack large stacks of infantry without opening yourself up to a vicious counter-attack. Thus neither side attacks, the IPC balance doesn't swing, and the stacks of infantry get higher and higher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically stalemates end with a &lt;strong&gt;victory in a secondary theater&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. Africa, South Pacific), which results in a small IPC advantage that builds slowly in time. It can also end with a &lt;strong&gt;clumsy move&lt;/strong&gt; by one of the players, some exceedingly &lt;strong&gt;good (or bad) dice rolls&lt;/strong&gt;, or by &lt;strong&gt;mutual agreement to end the game in a draw&lt;/strong&gt; if everyone is too tired to continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T03:24:35.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6102" CreationDate="2011-06-14T10:12:15.843" Score="3" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/472/dungeonquest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DungeonQuest&lt;/a&gt; for a while with some of my friends, and what I've discovered is that there's a noticeable drop in interest during the combat, which is too complicated for new players to pick up easily and surprisingly slow for such a fast-paced game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone who's been playing this for a while know of a better rule set or house rules to make it more fun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="3753" LastEditDate="2013-02-10T04:32:46.227" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T04:32:46.227" Title="How Can I Improve Combat in DungeonQuest?" Tags="|house-rules|dungeonquest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3831" CreationDate="2011-06-14T13:13:48.770" Score="1" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using Standard American my left hand opponent bid one heart. Partner passed. Right hand opponent raised to two hearts. I was in the &quot;balancing&quot; (fourth) seat and held:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) Axxx (h) x (d) KJxx (c) Axxx, doubling for takeout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner passed me for &quot;penalty&quot; with Axxx in the suit, and the opponents made 2H, which (doubled) amounted to game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said that I expected a (competing) bid. Partner claimed that her original pass was a &quot;bid&quot; and therefore would not have &quot;taken out&quot; the double in any event. She was pleased to pass for penalty, but expected me to have something like Qxx, in which case we WOULD have set the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always thought a double was for takeout until partner bid. And that partner couldn't pass except in very limited circumstances. Does Axxx in the opponent's suit represent enough &quot;defense&quot; to pass? Or does the previous pass justify the later one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T18:36:16.647" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T00:22:35.733" Title="Does a Takeout Double Apply to a &quot;Passed&quot; Partner?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3827" CreationDate="2011-06-14T14:03:26.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you and your partner are playing standard takeout doubles, this double would certainly be for takeout.  The opponent's have not necessarily finished their bidding yet (the 1H bidder could still bid on), and you have not had a chance to bid before this.  Partner has passed, but you knew that and took that into consideration before you doubled.  Partner needs to trust you, and bid a suit that he has length in, or bid 2NT with the necessary stoppers and strength.  If he wants to pass, he does so at his own peril and should have a hand that can set 2H on his own nearly from the outset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your options, the double is a good bid, and gives you the best chance of finding your best fit as cheaply as as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One minor point: you really weren't balancing here.  &quot;Balancing&quot; refers to the person who, if they passed, would end the bidding.  Since LHO could have bid over the 2H if they had more strength, you were competing, not balancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit: Expanded upon partner's responses)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="1299" LastEditDate="2011-06-14T15:42:06.477" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T15:42:06.477" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3830" CreationDate="2011-06-14T14:38:19.867" Score="21" ViewCount="1610" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players draw resources, commodities (Cities and Knights), and fish tokens (Fishermen of Catan) during the course of various Catan games. It is almost always advantageous to draw your earned &quot;goods&quot; whenever possible, but is it required?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Forgetfulness&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players sometimes forget to draw the goods they are entitled to. If play passes to the next player before they remember, we often forbid the forgetful player from drawing what they forget. They should learn to pay attention, although I am very lenient with new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Strategy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was recently in a situation where purposely not drawing all my goods would have been to my advantage had a certain number been rolled. A player may do this to avoid having more than 7 resources in hand when a win is otherwise clenched, or to avoid drawing the Old Boot in Fisherman of Catan (which requires the owner to have one additional victory point to win). Had someone reminded me to draw all my goods, I might have suspiciously declined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do the rules say (or imply) about this? Are players required to draw all their goods? Are forgetful players allowed to gather previously forgotten goods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="274" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T14:12:19.493" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T14:12:19.493" Title="Is drawing resources required?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3829" CreationDate="2011-06-14T14:41:58.730" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You must draw all of your goods.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/2-catan-boardgame/955-resource-cards-can-i-voluntarily-take-less-resources-or-none-at-all-after-the-production-roll.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource Cards - Can I voluntarily take less resources or none at all after the production roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is any official guidance on what to do if draws are forgotten about.  If it is noticed fairly quickly, the draws should be made up.  But if you've gotten to a new round of trading, or a 7 has been thrown, it is probably too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can consult this past question that gives general advice on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/114/take-back-turns-forgotten-privileges&quot;&gt;Take Back Privileges&lt;/a&gt; that might be helpful in resolving the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer stays the same for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/24-cities-and-knights/1078-commodities-do-i-have-to-take-1-resource-and-1-commodity-for-a-city-that-produces-commodities-even-if-i-already-own-the-metropolis-of-this-commodity.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cities and Knights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T14:53:49.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3827" CreationDate="2011-06-14T17:36:24.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would definitely understand your double to be for takeout; and I would indeed expect partner's pass to be for penalties, based on confidence of taking down 2H. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you're that confident of taking down 2H, I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be confident enough to compete in the auction.  And since, as it turned out, your partner didn't have enough defensive strength to justify his pass, I think you were right to be a little aggrieved on this occasion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:36:24.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3829" CreationDate="2011-06-14T17:42:11.037" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really important that everyone draw all their goods.  One of the core elements of Catan in my mind is the need to keep your hand size to 7 or below as much as possible, to ward off the attentions of the robber.  This &quot;problem&quot; is in fact hugely beneficial to the flow of the game, because it encourages people to trade with their opponents, when they might otherwise just play solitaire.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I have a plan to steal your resources with a Monopoly or the like, you'd better keep on drawing them, or I'll be angry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend employing the services of a &quot;banker&quot; who is responsible for giving out resource cards to every player after every die roll.  Letting people draw (or forget to draw) their own resources is a recipe for disaster!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-14T17:42:11.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3829" CreationDate="2011-06-14T18:52:18.470" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some games (chess comes to mind) where every turn is a &quot;must move&quot; situation (if legal). &quot;The right to make the next move&quot; is usually an advantage. But not always! Sometimes it can be a distinct liability, and you have to accept that liability as part of the game. This situation chess is called a &quot;Zugzwang,&quot; and part of the game is maneuvering your opponent into one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other games such as Go, are more &quot;constructive.&quot; Having the move is always helpful (or neutral) meaning that it's &quot;your privilege&quot; NOT to move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because having too many resources is actually bad if the robber is moved, Catan seems to fall into the first category--you must move because it's possible to be in a situation where not moving may be beneficial. (But the &quot;newbies&quot; who fail to draw hurt themselves more often than not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T16:39:14.197" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T16:39:14.197" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2011-06-15T01:16:29.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Implied odds vary greatly between limit and no limit hold 'em. In either case, they occur when you are drawing to something like a straight or flush, particularly after the &quot;turn&quot; (fourth) card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In limit, if you make your hand on the &quot;river&quot; card, and bet, you can pretty much count on each opponent to call your hand for one more (big) bet, to &quot;keep you honest.&quot; Hence, you can mentally add these &quot;implied&quot; opponents' calls of your fifth card bet in calculating the size of the pot as of the fourth card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No limit is trickier, and depends on the character of your opponents. Some (timid) NL players will call nothing after the fifth card if it looks like you made your hand. Then your implied odds after the fourth card are the same as the pot odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other cases, you will have HUGE implied odds if a novice or reckless player &quot;goes for broke&quot; betting (or calling) that you're bluffing after the fifth card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely the result will &quot;intermediate&quot; to the two above. In any case, your implied odds after the fourth card depend on your ability to charge &quot;what the market will bear&quot; after the fifth card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T01:16:29.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3533" CreationDate="2011-06-15T03:38:02.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my understanding of the rules: at the start of the game, the players and countries IPC's are calculated by what territories they own. So at the start of the Global A&amp;amp;A game, add up all of the U.S.'s territories and that is there starting income. When they enter the war, they get an IPC boost of 30. That is how I understand it... hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T03:38:02.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2011-06-15T04:09:57.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of my thoughts than an answer, though I am going to answer the question (since that is what this is for). I have actually never heard of the &quot;Russia cannot attack the first turn too&quot; rule until I began reading in this forum. I've been playing for near 8 years now and like I said, this is the first time I've ever heard this. I don't see why Russia can't attack in their first turn... that is how the rules were set up. To make it more historically accurate, I understand, but that isn't how the rules were set up. So if Russia attacks, yes, Japan or Germany may lose a fighter (woop-de-do) since they have more IPC's than Russia; who cares? Russia is spreading itself out by attacking the first turn anyways. I can see reasons for the rule change, but I'm indifferent either way. It doesn't matter to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1154" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T04:09:57.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2011-06-15T06:40:46.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt; has some games that are regularly played by Forum. One member will usually manage the game state and update players about their secret information via private messages and publish the new state of the game in the forum for all to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T06:40:46.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2202" CreationDate="2011-06-15T11:38:40.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, we decided that Jeweler and Villa shouldn't be allowed in the same game.  Since the first expansion already has the rule that the Hacienda and Forest House shouldn't be allowed in the same game, there's a precedent for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Villa + Royal Gardens is still a bit of a problem, but with Jeweler out of the picture, you won't be getting obscene amounts of money from all of your Nobles during the crafting phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T11:38:40.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-15T11:55:34.957" Score="13" ViewCount="5704" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine recently got MTG for the XBox and is talking us into getting real cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm all up for starting but I dread the idea of playing the same two people over and over with no change epically since one of them is over competitive and exploits every loophole he can to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any a reliable (not just google it) way to find places where people play MTG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T17:01:42.077" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T04:14:28.547" Title="Finding places to play Magic the Gathering games" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2011-06-15T12:57:39.707" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for your location-specific needs, I don't know that many people can speak to that.  However, for the more generalized &quot;How do I find more places/people to play Magic with,&quot; here are a few answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wizards of the Coast has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ww2.wizards.com/StoreAndEventLocator/&quot;&gt;Store and Event Locator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check your LGSs (Local Gaming Stores) - many will either run Friday Night Magic, regular events, or casual play days&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look online for people or groups that play in your area (e.g. something like Craigslist or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meetup.com&quot;&gt;http://www.meetup.com&lt;/a&gt; in the US - not sure about the UK)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teach other people to play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides those, there's always Magic the Gathering: Online - yes, it's another place to spend money on Magic (and you don't physically own the cards), but lots of the older (and less-played newer) cards can be found very cheaply, and it shouldn't be hard to put together a decent collection and play online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T12:57:39.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3657" CreationDate="2011-06-15T15:25:49.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the idea of another answerer for Japan to leave the American fleet alone. And he's also very creative in his idea for Japan to threaten South America. But it seems that the biggest prize may have eluded him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to me that BOTH countries have bigger &quot;fish to fry&quot;--in the Mediterranean. Many games are decided by whether the Germans can hold onto, or the Allies can recapture, Africa. A &quot;second front&quot; (or lack thereof) in western or southern Europe could make the difference between whether or not Russia survives. The Med is the key to both these strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Japanese fleet can get to the Red Sea from the Pacific, (via the Indian Ocean) in something like three turns. The American fleet offshore California can get offshore Algeria (via the Panama Canal) in three turns. A fourth turn could put one or the other squarely in the mid-Med, with the other attacking it from east or west. Because both fleets are helping their respective allies, that's where the decisive battle can be fought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see an American player wanting to fight Japan in the Pacific to avoid this outcome. (Particularly if &quot;Japan&quot; is the better player.) But I can't see Japan dodging the &quot;Med.&quot; I believe the Axis' &quot;achilles heel&quot; is the German navy (or lack thereof), for which the Japanese navy could be the logical cure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted, this seems like kind of an advanced, sophisticated play. But the people I've met on this site are sophisticated players. How about it, guys?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T15:25:49.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3982" CreationDate="2011-06-15T15:35:22.437" Score="18" ViewCount="5139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I liked playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt; back in university, where I had almost no problem gathering seven people with a whole day (including the nights) to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays however, I'd consider myself lucky to find maybe four like-minded people who have the better part of an evening to play board games, and my beloved Diplomacy set is gathering dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, especially considering all the variants out there, I'm looking for ways to play and complete a &lt;strong&gt;satisfying round&lt;/strong&gt; of Diplomacy &lt;strong&gt;in an evening's time&lt;/strong&gt; (maybe 3h?) and &lt;strong&gt;with four to five players&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1167" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T03:17:24.000" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T19:20:19.280" Title="How can I play a short/small, but still satisfying round of Diplomacy?" Tags="|house-rules|variants|diplomacy|play-time|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3976" CreationDate="2011-06-15T19:24:14.170" Score="1" ViewCount="1872" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 2nd Edition of Axis and Allies, you win one of two ways: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capture two of your opponent's capital cities (i.e. Germany and Japan if playing as the Allies or some combination of Eastern US, Russia, and Great Britain if playing the Axis).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control 84 IPCs of territory at the end of the turn if playing the Axis, or 110 if playing the Allies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies Revised, economic victory was eliminated and the concept of victory cities was added. Instead of having to capture two capitals, the game ends when one side controls a certain number of these victory cities (and the number required can be used to scale game length).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How has this change in victory conditions changed gameplay and strategy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T13:57:00.657" Title="How does the introduction of victory cities in Axis &amp; Allies revised change gameplay and strategy?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2011-06-15T19:24:58.990" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly all American experts would not make a takeout double here, and my impression is that most Europeans would not as well.  Having 3 cards in their suit is a flaw when deciding to try and declare the hand rather than defend, and points outside their suits do matter: with only 9 points outside of their suit, your offense-to-defense ratio is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If opener has 6 hearts, and partner 3 or 4, your K will not take a trick on offense (it will be ruffed).  And if partner has 1 heart, the K could be useless as well.  But it will always take a trick on defense, so the heart K should be discounted slightly when considering the takeout double.  Qxx of hearts would discounted heavily because it would be useless on many hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several ways to lose by doubling here: partner has 3 hearts, partner gets you into a 4-3 minor fit, partner competes over 2H and gets you too high, partner drives to game expecting more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner is still there.  He will reopen after 1H P P if he has one of the hands you want, and I would recommend playing a pre-balancing style where partner can double light after 1H P 2H... then he will protect you from having passed this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all, too many flaws: only 9 points outside their suit, poor shape, no spots, bad vulnerability.  If opponents were vulnerable that's another flaw since you might be able to get 100 or 200 by setting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="172" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T20:07:37.427" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T20:07:37.427" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3705" CreationDate="2011-06-15T20:41:12.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the second part of your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common method for deciding whether to open a hand is called the &quot;rule of 20&quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgehands.com/R/Rule_of_20.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bridgehands.com/R/Rule_of_20.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand shown just adds up to 18 (= 6 longest suit + 3 second longest suit + 9 points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most people would not open this hand, but it does have two nice things&#xA;1) The long suits are in the majors, making a game more likely, and making it more likely you'll win the auction.&#xA;2) Aces are good because they are useful even if partner or opponents don't end up playing in one of your suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those things are not enough to tip this to an opener for most people, but it's not far off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people would open this hand 2S, and many people who don't like preempting with 2 aces or without a singleton, or without spots in the trump suit, would pass and just overcall later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T20:41:12.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3847" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-15T21:37:18.633" Score="8" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the historical strength of the Allies, Axis and Allies is somewhat Allies favoring, despite numerous attempts to &quot;balance&quot; the game. I was wondering if curing the Axis' &quot;achilles heel,&quot; the German navy, would complete the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Props to Scott Mitchell who inspired the &quot;Tirpitz (house) rule&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subdivide the UK sea zone at the 57th parallel (above Scotland) into the UK sea zone proper (south) and the Norwegian sea (north).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a German battleship unit there in the Norwegian Sea (the Tirpitz and the battle cruisers), while giving the UK a SECOND battleship in the new UK sea zone to compensate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the German transport and sub from the Baltic to the Norwegian Sea to prevent &quot;cheap&quot; Allied attacks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks &quot;even&quot; but it's not. Because of the ship synergy (and the first attack advantage) Germany comes out about 12 IPCs better than before, according to my simulations on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;AA combat simulator&lt;/a&gt;.  Put another way, the &quot;Tirpitz&quot; cancels out not only the second UK battleship, but an additional Allied fighter. Together with the &quot;no Russian first turn attack rule,&quot; it seems to erase the &quot;consensus&quot; estimate of a 22 IPC advantage for the Allies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/3720/50&quot;&gt;his question&lt;/a&gt;, Adam Wuerl implied that Germany could use the help in the Mediterranean instead. Could this be the locale for the naval &quot;fix?&quot; Or could Germany be given another submarine somewhere with additional rules for their use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game, the key issues are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether the Allies can get reinforcements to Russia in time to save it from the Axis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether Germany can hold onto Africa long enough for the Russians to be defeated. These issues appear to be decided in the North Atlantic and Mediterranean. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could naval units giving Germany a better shot in these waters (together with the no Russia first attack rule) induce players to finally be willing to play the Axis &quot;straight up&quot;? And could the &quot;Tirpitz rule&quot; (together with a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3626/can-we-find-a-middle-ground-on-the-russia-first-turn-attack-rule-in-allies-and-ax&quot;&gt;house rule saving German fighters in Finland and the Ukraine&lt;/a&gt;) produce this result even if Russia is allowed to attack the first turn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T21:55:53.897" Title="In Axis and Allies, could a house rule upgrading the German navy finally &quot;balance&quot; the 1942 game?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3848" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:27:00.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please do not use this tag, it has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/911/meta-tags-r-us&quot;&gt;deprecated&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are slowly removing this tag from older questions over time.  Feel free to edit this tag out of older questions that are on the front page, or from a small number(&amp;lt;5/day) of questions not on the front page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:16:38.277" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:16:38.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3849" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:27:00.330" Score="0" Body="Please do not use this tag, it has been deprecated." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:16:38.277" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:16:38.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3840" CreationDate="2011-06-15T22:50:09.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://nearbygamers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NearbyGamers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website is dedicated to solving your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: I haven't used it in years, because I have all the gamers I need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T22:50:09.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3234" CreationDate="2011-06-15T23:22:20.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A positional game is one in which you try to go for a better position, specifically control of key squares, particularly close to the center, or in the vicinity of the enemy king. You often do this at the expense of other considerations in the game such as material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the best example is the queens gambit. White offers black a queen bishop pawn (and some tactical chances). If black accepts the pawn, white is likely to get a stronger center and the king side. A century ago, it was considered bad for black to give white these positional advantages, but modern, particularly Russian players, have demonstrated that the material and tactical chances compensate for white's better position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is when you exchange a bishop for a knight to &quot;double&quot; your opponent's pawns. Inflicting doubled pawns is a positional advantage, but some masters considered trading a bishop for a knight as &quot;giving up the minor exchange&quot; (on the theory that bishops were worth more than knights.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-15T23:31:59.827" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T23:31:59.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2011-06-15T23:47:49.887" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play regularly with my kids.  The energy card count depends heavily on the pokemon you use.  I have gone as low a 8 in a deck where all the pokemon had effective attacks at 1 energy and a retreat cost of 0 or 1.  I have gone as high as 28 or 30 when the deck was based on pokemon that discarded energy to attack and/or took 3 or 4 energy to have an effective attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building a new deck we usually start at 16-18 energy adjusting up or down by a few as outlined above.   Then we tweak after some playing games.  My kids, who have more time than I do, will often build a deck then &quot;goldfish&quot; it.  ie play out a game solo to see if the needed energy arrive as fast as they can be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="76" LastActivityDate="2011-06-15T23:47:49.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3843" CreationDate="2011-06-15T23:53:11.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need an odd number of players, say five, to make the game flow with a majority vs. a minority dynamic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you need to choose two countries to eliminate. Italy is the obvious first choice, least fun to play. Germany is the recommended second choice by the game designers. But that has the disadvantage of separating the board into England-France, and Russia-Turkey-Austria. In a game I once played, we eliminated Turkey, instead, as not really being part of Europe. It had the advantages of keeping the countries connected, and of making Austria fun to play with two fewer enemies. The game itself goes faster with two fewer people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You put single armies in each city of these eliminated countries, and let human players defend these &quot;city states&quot; by supporting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other rule is that a &quot;minority-majority&quot; wins. That is two people (a minority of five) can declare themselves co-winners if they control 18 (a majority) of the 34 supply centers. Not needing a single winner shortens the game. Alternatively, anyone that survives the whole three hours is a &quot;winner.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this game, Austria and Russia won. They carved up Turkey and the Balkans, then headed west, while England, France and Germany fought among themselves. Not hard for them to get 18. And the game lasted just over three hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T01:02:33.530" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T01:02:33.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3854" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:22:00.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use this tag in isolation; pair it with a tag for the game(s) being discussed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening refers to the beginning of a game, specifically the strategy and tactics involved in making the initial deployments and early moves that set the tone for the rest of the game and constrain future decisions. For other stages of games, see also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/end-game&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;end-game&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;end-game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Go&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In questions about &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/go&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;go&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;go&lt;/a&gt;, use this tag for fuseki (whole-board aspects), but use &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/joseki&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;joseki&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;joseki&lt;/a&gt; for established corner sequences; &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fuseki&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fuseki&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fuseki&lt;/a&gt; is a synonym for this tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuseki refers to the overall opening in the game of Go, as opposed to joseki in one corner. Typical aspects are the balance of positions across the whole board, balance between influence and/or territory, when to make shimaris or kakaris (corner enclosure or approaches) and extensions, balance between high and low positions, handling of weak groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://senseis.xmp.net/?Opening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Opening&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://senseis.xmp.net/?Fuseki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fuseki&lt;/a&gt; in Sensei’s Library for information about the opening in Go. See the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/tags/go/info&quot;&gt;Go tag-wiki&lt;/a&gt; for other tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T02:23:37.077" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T02:23:37.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3855" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:22:00.227" Score="0" Body="The opening refers to the beginning of a game, specifically the strategy and tactics involved in making the initial deployments and early moves that set the tone for the rest of the game and constrain future decisions." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T11:35:46.963" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T11:35:46.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3856" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:25:31.257" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T00:25:31.257" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:25:31.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3857" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:25:31.257" Score="0" Body="Psychology (in the BCG sense) refers to how players feel about a game as the game is played." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T02:22:09.593" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T02:22:09.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3858" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:26:55.360" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T00:26:55.360" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:26:55.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3859" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:26:55.360" Score="0" Body="Skill is the part of the game that derives from players' playing abilities, as opposed to chance factors represented by coin flips, dice, etc." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T02:22:05.520" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T02:22:05.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3860" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:28:04.267" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T00:28:04.267" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T00:28:04.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3861" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:28:04.267" Score="0" Body="Luck is the part of the game that is derived from chance factors represented by throws of coins, dice, etc." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T02:21:32.743" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T02:21:32.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3862" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:37:34.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Bridge&lt;/strong&gt;, a bid is a proposal to make one or more tricks above a minority &quot;book&quot; of six tricks, in a &quot;trump&quot; suit of choice, or with &quot;no trump.&quot; The highest numerical bid buys the contract. Between two bids that are equal numerically, the suits are accepted in a descending order of no trump, spades, hearts, diamonds, and clubs. It is preferable, when asking such a question, to specify the system used (such as Standard American or Acol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Spades&lt;/strong&gt;, each team of two players bids for the right to take tricks during the proceeding hand, with the highest bid winning the honor. The team who loses the bid attempts to set the winning team by preventing them from making their bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.net/public/law/BIDDING.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Axis and Allies&lt;/strong&gt;, bidding&lt;/a&gt; is a popular rule variant that attempts to even out what is commonly considered an &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/177/675&quot;&gt;un-balanced game&lt;/a&gt; by spotting the weaker Axis additional units (equal to the value of the winning bid) at game start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T17:41:00.587" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T17:41:00.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3863" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:37:34.000" Score="0" Body="Bidding is an auction mechanic common to a variety of board and card games where two or more players or teams compete for a right or privilege. Bidding is common in trick-taking card game such as bridge, and several other bidding examples are provided in the bidding wiki page." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T01:57:36.980" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T01:57:36.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3864" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:55:43.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/915/40&quot;&gt;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/915/40&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:53:40.203" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:53:40.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3865" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T00:55:43.640" Score="0" Body="Do not use this tag.  Its use has been deprecated." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T00:32:26.830" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T00:32:26.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3866" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T01:00:33.030" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T01:00:33.030" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T01:00:33.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3867" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T01:00:33.030" Score="0" Body="A &quot;shorthand&quot; used to describe the moves of a game." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T02:21:37.487" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T02:21:37.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3868" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T01:01:27.197" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T01:01:27.197" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T01:01:27.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3869" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T01:01:27.197" Score="0" Body="The process of designing a game to be played, such as the creation of the game mechanics and theme and the associated rules, board, map, cards, tokens and/or other playing implements. Also includes the process of play testing early versions of the game to refine and improve these elements." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T01:57:43.017" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T01:57:43.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3909" CreationDate="2011-06-16T11:52:52.163" Score="-3" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess has two types of castling: kingside and queenside.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Which one is more advantageous near the beginning of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:48:33.847" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T07:24:36.623" Title="Which castling method is superior?" Tags="|chess|tactics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3871" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:11:05.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mah Jongg is a rummy-like game played with tiles rather than cards. The game originated in China, dating back to the time of Confucius. There are several versions of Mah Jongg, but each fall under two broad categories: American Mah Jongg and Chinese Mah Jongg. The four player table version should not be confused with the popular Western single player (tile matching) computer game known as Mahjong solitaire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastEditorUserId="2270" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T21:13:54.743" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T21:13:54.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3872" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:11:05.157" Score="0" Body="A Chinese rummy-like game played with tiles. Depending on the version being played the tiles consist of suits (Bamboo, Crack, and Dots) of 10 tiles each, Winds (North, South, East, and West), Dragons (Red, White, and Green), Flowers, and possibly Jokers. " OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="2270" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T21:13:57.287" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T21:13:57.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3873" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:12:52.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:12:52.770" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:12:52.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3874" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:12:52.770" Score="0" Body="The first few moves of a game." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T20:41:32.343" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T20:41:32.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3875" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:14:56.840" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:14:56.840" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:14:56.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3876" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:14:56.840" Score="0" Body="The aspect of a game where players work together toward common goals.  The tag refers to two types of cooperation: (1) games where all players cooperate toward a common victory condition (everybody wins or everybody loses), and (2) two or more players working toward common but not-necessarily-identical goals." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T22:03:05.827" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T22:03:05.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3877" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:17:23.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/game-accessories&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'game-accessories'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;game-accessories&lt;/a&gt; (for game aids that are not actual game components).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:14:39.607" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:14:39.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3878" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:17:23.223" Score="0" Body="The physical pieces used in a game. They may include things common to many games (like dice), or things relating only to the particular game." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:47:00.817" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:47:00.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3879" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:18:50.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:18:50.820" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:18:50.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3880" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:18:50.820" Score="0" Body="The part of the game relating to the exchange of products or other resources, hopefully at a profit." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T18:27:20.157" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T18:27:20.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3881" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:19:42.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:19:42.893" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:19:42.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3882" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:19:42.893" Score="0" Body="Games based on answering questions on trivia (i.e. interesting but useless facts, information, or uncommon knowledge), typically organized into categories (e.g. popular culture, sports, geography, the arts, etc.)." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T11:46:49.210" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T11:46:49.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3883" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:21:09.320" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:21:09.320" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:21:09.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3884" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:21:09.320" Score="0" Body="A &quot;capture the flag&quot; strategy game involving two armies with officers of different ranks, and bombs." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T16:14:17.120" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T16:14:17.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3885" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:38:25.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:38:25.357" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:38:25.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3886" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:38:25.357" Score="0" Body="Mistakes that are easily and often made in the play of a game." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:37:36.927" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:37:36.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3887" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:39:30.147" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:39:30.147" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:39:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3888" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:39:30.147" Score="0" Body="Games in which the throw of dice is used to represent chance factors that determine outcomes." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T18:26:04.823" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T18:26:04.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3889" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:41:49.727" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:41:49.727" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:41:49.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3890" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:41:49.727" Score="0" Body="Someone who is new to a particular game and has seldom, if ever, played it before." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:35:57.567" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:35:57.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3891" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:42:59.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:42:59.740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:42:59.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3892" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:42:59.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T13:42:59.740" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T13:42:59.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3893" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:44:37.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The process of keeping track of the number of points earned by each player in a game, as a means of &quot;ranking&quot; players. See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/counting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;counting&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;counting&lt;/a&gt;, for keeping track of the score, particularly in &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/go&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;go&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;go&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:48:27.560" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:48:27.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3894" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:44:37.573" Score="0" Body="The process of keeping track of the number of points earned by each player in a game, as a means of &quot;ranking&quot; players. See also the [counting] tag, for keeping track of the score, particularly in Go." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:48:27.560" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:48:27.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="3895" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:45:41.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closing part of the game when players make their final moves to try to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag can be used for any questions specific to the end-game of a certain game. Most popularly it is used for chess and Go, but do not feel limited to these choices! If your question is game-specific, please also include the tag for the game as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T11:44:14.080" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T11:44:14.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3896" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T13:45:41.160" Score="0" Body="The closing part of the game when players make their final moves to try to win. Do not use this tag in isolation; pair it with a tag for the game(s) being discussed." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T03:47:27.503" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T03:47:27.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3897" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:23:17.677" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:23:17.677" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:23:17.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3898" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:23:17.677" Score="0" Body="Questions about the business, legal, and packaging aspects of making a new game." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:26:28.337" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:26:28.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3899" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:32:25.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Balance is the concept and the practice of tuning a game's rules, usually with the goal of preventing any of its component systems from being ineffective or otherwise undesirable when compared to their peers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T13:29:29.610" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T13:29:29.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3900" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:32:25.867" Score="0" Body="Balance is the concept and the practice of tuning a game's rules, usually with the goal of preventing any of its component systems from being ineffective or otherwise undesirable when compared to their peers." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T13:29:08.207" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T13:29:08.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3901" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:33:43.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to know how a game has changed, this is the tag for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:58:49.687" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:58:49.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3902" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:33:43.747" Score="0" Body="The history tag explores variation editions of changes to a board game. It also is used for looking into the past events that lead up to a game in some way." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:58:56.940" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:58:56.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3903" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:34:59.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games of this type tend to be light (little or no strategy), short (or of easily-varied length), and able to accommodate large numbers of players.  Examples: Mafia, Apples to Apples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T21:27:05.163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T21:27:05.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3904" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:34:59.767" Score="0" Body="Social games -- that is. games commonly played at parties, or most playable at such." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T21:28:00.967" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T21:28:00.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3905" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:40:08.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:40:08.767" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:40:08.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3906" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:40:08.767" Score="0" Body="The average or &quot;normal&quot; time it takes to play a game. Some games have play times that vary widely from one game from the next. Others have a structured sequence of events that keep play times within relatively narrow limits." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T16:14:02.130" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T16:14:02.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3907" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:43:25.943" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:43:25.943" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:43:25.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3908" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:43:25.943" Score="0" Body="Someone who plays, or teaches the play of games for a living. Examples abound in golf, tennis, and other sports, as well as sedentary games like bridge, chess, and go." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T18:26:31.607" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T18:26:31.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:46:43.817" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither method of castling is superior to the other.  They are completely position-dependent.  Neither method is advantageous at the beginning of the game relative to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major factors in Chess is position, so you have to choose where to castle based on the opening you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two purposes for castling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protect the King&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Develop the Rook&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castling queenside will put your rook on a center file.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castling queenside will leave your King open to a diagonal threat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castling kingside will have tend to have your King protected even from the diagonal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castling kingside will usually mean that you have to move your Rook again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Castling kingside can generally be done sooner since there are less pieces to move out of the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can see, it all depends on your opening.  If you're moving a lot of queenside pieces then it may do you well to castle queenside, but it depends on your pawn structure.  If you're doing a King's pawn opening, then you'll probably end up castling kingside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T20:44:26.790" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T20:44:26.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3910" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:47:46.990" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:47:46.990" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:47:46.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3911" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:47:46.990" Score="0" Body="A game played on a chessboard with black and red checkers, also called draughts." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1946" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T07:04:49.323" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T07:04:49.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3912" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:49:44.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With its origins tracing back to 3000 BC in Persia, backgammon is a game with history on par with chess or Go. However, backgammon is not a pure strategy game, possible moves are determined by dice. Because of this, there is a long tradition of gambling on backgammon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play backgammon, two players place checkers, sometimes called &quot;men&quot; on the board in a particular starting configuration. The board is divided into 4 quadrants, each consisting of 6 points which the checkers can occupy. On a turn, a player rolls two dice and moves checkers according to the numbers shown. Players move their men in opposite directions--one clockwise and the other counter-clockwise--and are not allowed to move backwards. (One player's &quot;start&quot; is the other player's &quot;finish&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single checker on a point is called a &quot;blot&quot; and may be knocked off by an opponent landing on it. When a checker is knocked off it is placed &quot;on the bar,&quot; on the divider between the left and right sides of the board. A player with a man on the bar is not permitted to move any other men before bringing the man off the bar and into the farthest back quadrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all of a player's men are in the nearest quadrant, he may begin &quot;bearing off,&quot; moving his men off the edge of the board. The goal is to be the first to bear off all your men.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backgammon is usually played with a doubling cube. Before rolling the dice on her turn, a player may offer a double to her opponent, to which the opponent chooses to double the stakes for the current game or resign at the original stakes. If the double is accepted, then the accepting player gains control of the doubling cube and is the only one able to offer another double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We welcome backgammon questions about rules, strategy, equipment, computer backgammon, variants, and most other related topics!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T01:01:28.343" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T01:01:28.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3913" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:49:44.057" Score="0" Body="A very old 2-player game with checkers played on a board with 24 &quot;points.&quot; The object is to move (based on dice rolls) all your checkers past points controlled by your opponent, and ultimately off the board, while bumping off and trapping your opponent's checkers. (20-minute playtime.)" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T01:01:23.490" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T01:01:23.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3914" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:52:35.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:52:35.227" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:52:35.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3915" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:52:35.227" Score="0" Body="A game set in the War of 1812 in a harbor location, pitting a larger invading British fleet against a smaller American flotilla backed by defenses such as shore batteries and mines." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:57:42.743" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:57:42.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3916" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:53:58.377" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:53:58.377" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:53:58.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3917" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:53:58.377" Score="0" Body="The art of gaining an advantage by representing something that &quot;isn't so&quot; in games such as poker and bluff." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T18:25:55.947" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T18:25:55.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3918" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:56:31.543" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T14:56:31.543" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T14:56:31.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3919" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-16T14:56:31.543" Score="0" Body="Bridge play by someone who has &quot;bought&quot; the contract with a high bid. His partner lays down his cards after the opening lead, and is silent (&quot;dummy&quot;) throughout the game, allowing declarer to play both hands." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-16T21:19:47.130" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T21:19:47.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2011-06-16T21:19:30.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;old&quot; days, people preferred kingside castling. It was faster (only two pieces in the way instead of three). It also meant that you could use your pawns on the &quot;long&quot; (queen) side for maneuvering, without worrying about leaving your king unprotected. One obvious advantage of kingside castling was that it protected the rook pawn, castling on the other side, you need an extra move to do this. In an era when openings were &quot;short&quot; (about ten moves), this was an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, people are beginning to pay more attention to queen side castling. That's partly because the methods of attacking on the kingside have mostly been worked out, but they are less familiar on the queenside. Another reason is that the rook lands on a center (queen) file instead of a bishop file, which could be more useful for in controlling the center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, the tendency is for longer openings. If you don't mind taking an extra move to move out the queen (and maybe a second extra move to allow the king to protect the rook pawn), the advantages mentioned in the last paragraph could argue in favor of queenside castling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-16T21:19:30.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2011-06-17T05:32:03.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really comparable to Settlers of Catan, but &lt;strong&gt;Blokus Duo&lt;/strong&gt; is pretty good 2-player game. Price tag of $10 it's worth a look, I've played it dozens of times with my Brother already and it's pretty fun, simple, but challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1121" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T05:32:03.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="212" CreationDate="2011-06-17T12:51:45.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a ton of games, and Battle Line is among the best two player games out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pb5vy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/760/battle-line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battle Line&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a game made by the great Reiner Knizia, so already you know it's good. The way it works is there are 9 columns. On your turn you play a card onto your side of any column. Once your formation on a column can't possibly be beat by the opponent, you take that column. If you get 5 columns total, or three adjacent columns, you win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T12:51:45.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3925" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T13:28:27.050" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T13:28:27.050" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T13:28:27.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3926" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T13:28:27.050" Score="0" Body="Tips and tricks for board and card game storage, particularly custom or after-market storage methods for games with an inadequate native storage method or whose storage method is large and/or cumbersome to use. Includes questions about the protection of individual game components to reduce wear and/or increase longevity." OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T17:44:33.167" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T17:44:33.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3928" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:13:30.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Object of the Game&lt;/strong&gt; - Be the first player to score 121 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of Players&lt;/strong&gt; - The basic game is for two players, three and four player versions of the game are played with slight modifications to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A standard pack of 52 playing cards is used.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The four suits are considered equal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rank and value of the cards are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card/Values:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|card: | K| Q| J|10| 9| 8| 7| 6| 5| 4| 3| 2| A|&#xA;+------+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+&#xA;|value:|10|10|10|10| 9| 8| 7| 6| 5| 4| 3| 2| 1|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cribbage Board&lt;/strong&gt; - A cribbage board, though not actually necessary, is almost always used to keep score. A has a track of holes for each player. Colored pegs are used to indicate the score. Each player uses 2 pegs, always moving the farthest back peg to the front so that both the total score and the latest increment can be easily observed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outline of Playing Sequence&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pack is cut to determine which player will deal first in the first game of a match; the low card wins the deal. (Aces are always low in cribbage.) Thereafter the loser of the previous game deals first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The dealer shuffles and, after a mandatory cut by the pone (non-dealer), distributes one card alternately to each player, beginning with the pone, until each has six cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each player discards two cards to form the crib, which belongs to the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pone cuts the remainder of the pack to select a starter card, which is used in counting the value of each player's hand and the crib.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play of the cards - Players alternately play (place face up on the table) one card at a time, starting with the pone. The cumulative value of the cards played is announced as each card is played. When a player cannot play a card without the cumulative total exceeding 31, that player calls &quot;go&quot;, and the opponent scores 1 point and continues to play all cards possible (not exceeding a 31-count). If either player has remaining cards this is repeated. The player who calls &quot;go&quot; plays first in the following 31-count sequence. Points are scored during this play of the cards (see scoring chart).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When both players have played all their cards, the pone's hand is counted and pegged by the pone (see scoring chart). The dealer then does the same for the dealer's hand and then for the crib.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The deal alternates between the players until the game ends, which occurs when a player scores 121 points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Score Chart&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|               points earned   during|hand /|&#xA;|cards                            play|  crib|&#xA;+------------------------------+------+------+&#xA;|Jack turned by dealer         |      |      |&#xA;|   as starter card            |   2  |   -  |&#xA;|Jack in hand or crib of       |      |      |&#xA;|   same suit as starter card  |   -  |   1  |&#xA;|combinations:                 |      |      | &#xA;| Two of a kind (pair)         |   2  |   2  |&#xA;| Three of a kind (triple)     |   6  |   6  |&#xA;| Four of a kind (quadruple)   |  12  |  12  |&#xA;| Straights of three           |      |      |&#xA;|   or more cards: (per card)  |   1  |   1  |&#xA;| 15-count (sum of any         |      |      |&#xA;|   combination of cards)      |   -  |   2  |&#xA;| Four-card flush              |      |      |&#xA;|   (only in the hand)         |   -  |   4  |&#xA;| Five-card flush              |   -  |   5  |&#xA;| Reaching a 15-count exactly  |   2  |   -  |&#xA;|*Reaching 31-count exactly    |   2  |   -  |&#xA;|*&quot;Go&quot; (without reaching       |      |      |&#xA;|   31-count)                  |   1  |   -  |&#xA;|*Final card played            |      |      |&#xA;|  (without reaching 31-count) |   1  |   -  |&#xA;+---------------------------- -+------+------+&#xA;* Only one of these scores can be earned with the play of a single card.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T01:01:55.953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T01:01:55.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3929" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:13:30.820" Score="0" Body="A card game for usually 2, but up to 4 people who draw, hold, and lay down cards in combinations meant to earn the most points." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T05:23:54.870" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T05:23:54.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3930" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:14:38.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/computers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'computers'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;computers&lt;/a&gt; for other computer-based games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:14:50.713" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:14:50.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3931" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:14:38.603" Score="0" Body="Board games with implementations that can be played within a web browser. " OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T10:26:47.363" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T10:26:47.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3932" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:18:50.147" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T14:18:50.147" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T14:18:50.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3933" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:18:50.147" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T14:18:50.147" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T14:18:50.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3934" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:21:37.230" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T14:21:37.230" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T14:21:37.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3935" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:21:37.230" Score="0" Body="A commodities trading card game for 3-8 players." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:00:36.470" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:00:36.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1153" CreationDate="2011-06-17T14:43:20.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me there are two basic kinds (levels) of game-playing skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is what I call &quot;technical&quot; ability, that is a mastery of the rules, techniques, and principles of the game. A person high on this measure will be a &quot;good&quot; player that's hard to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second level is what I call &quot;playing ability,&quot; the ability to study the play of one's opponents, relate it to &quot;technical ability&quot; (or lack thereof, as the case may be), and then devise strategies that will work particularly well against the other player. This is sometimes referred to as the ability to &quot;play the (wo)man, and not the game.&quot; It is the &quot;great&quot; players that fall into this category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;late&quot; World Chess Champion Jose R Capablanca had a habit of asking himself, &quot;if I were my opponent, what plan would I adopt against [Capablanca]?&quot; He would then devise a plan to quash his opponent's opportunities before the opponent himself knew they existed. Samuel Reshevsky apparently had the same talent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T14:43:20.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="908" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:18:00.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Made&quot; hands are those that satisfy certain requirements, specifically four &quot;sets&quot; of either triplets or &quot;three in a row,&quot; plus a pair. There are also a handful of &quot;special cases&quot; of &quot;made hands&quot; that don't meet these requirements. If, after taking a tile, you don't have a &quot;made hand&quot; (in either regard), you need to discard a tile and try again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;special cases&quot; are easily countable. The more common cases can be counted using a branch of math called &quot;combinatorics&quot; (the math of combinations). Increasingly powerful software programs can do this easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older &quot;authorities&quot; probably lacked &quot;combinatoric&quot; capabilities, hence no tables from them. The answer (in the form of a table, or a descriptive function), could now well exist somewhere in the world. That may or may not include the western world, depending on how popular the topic of mahjong is among western problem solvers. But the answer appears attainable, and may soon be, if it hasn't been already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:18:00.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3939" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:32:48.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:32:48.707" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:32:48.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3940" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:32:48.707" Score="0" Body="A game that can be played by more than two players." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T16:34:35.737" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T16:34:35.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3941" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:39:54.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:39:54.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:39:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3942" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:39:54.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:39:54.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:39:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3943" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:47:57.940" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:47:57.940" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:47:57.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3944" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:47:57.940" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:47:57.940" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:47:57.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3945" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:49:33.417" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:49:33.417" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:49:33.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3946" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:49:33.417" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:49:33.417" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:49:33.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3947" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:52:17.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:52:17.767" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:52:17.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3948" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T15:52:17.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T15:52:17.767" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T15:52:17.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3949" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T16:01:56.613" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T16:01:56.613" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T16:01:56.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3950" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T16:01:56.613" Score="0" Body="Regarding &quot;table manners&quot; in the play of the game." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T16:34:25.630" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T16:34:25.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2011-06-17T16:18:31.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need a laundry list of house rules, just agreements on the three or four most contentious issues. Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Free parking: Do fines, etc. go to the bank or into the middle for someone who lands on free parking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Auctions: Can a player refuse to buy a property without putting it up for auction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Buildings: Are there a limit to the number of houses and hotels? In some versions, we played &quot;unlimited buildings,&quot; as much as money can buy (usually in conjunction with the Free Parking Lottery),adding new ones from a second set if necessary. In another variant, you could &quot;free up&quot; an opponent's four houses per property by paying for his upgrade to hotels. Again, a &quot;good&quot; rule for someone who came into the money later, especially if those houses are on the Med or Baltic Avenues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Legal tender: Is a get out of jail free card &quot;legal tender&quot; for $50. Is a mortgaged property &quot;legal tender&quot; for half its original value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T21:12:21.030" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T21:12:21.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3952" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T16:47:14.050" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T16:47:14.050" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T16:47:14.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3953" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T16:47:14.050" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T16:47:14.050" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T16:47:14.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3954" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:15:46.933" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T20:15:46.933" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T20:15:46.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3955" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:15:46.933" Score="0" Body="Questions about where to find--and how to analyze--board and card game related data." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T01:57:48.180" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T01:57:48.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1760" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:39:31.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bridge, spades, and whist form a &quot;subfamily&quot; of related games within this group. Therefore, I would learn one of these three. The other games are (mostly) different from each other, which is to say you don't get the 3-for-1 feature with any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the three, spades, is the easiest, and therefore recommended by others. On the other hand, I recommend bridge, because it is the most common of the three games, and will probably get a player further in social circles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in either event, one can treat the learning of spades or bridge as a prelude to learning the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T20:39:31.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3957" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:41:58.787" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T20:41:58.787" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T20:41:58.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3958" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:41:58.787" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T20:41:58.787" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T20:41:58.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3959" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:51:21.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T20:51:21.173" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T20:51:21.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3960" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T20:51:21.173" Score="0" Body="Games that are good for almost all ages, and therefore suitable for play by members of a family." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T21:17:45.210" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T21:17:45.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3961" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-17T21:04:14.713" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T21:04:14.713" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T21:04:14.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3962" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-17T21:04:14.713" Score="0" Body="The behavior of a &quot;good sport&quot; who is gracious when both winning and losing." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-17T21:17:47.940" LastActivityDate="2011-06-17T21:17:47.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2011-06-17T21:31:42.447" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main features in the calculation. The first is to compare the sum of the (hotel) rents with the cost of building. Since the second &quot;set&quot; in each row charges higher rents without higher building costs, we will compare only the four second sets. The rents appear first, then the costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boardwalk Park Place (dark blue):  $3500 &amp;divide; $2000 = 1.75&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Atlantic, Ventnor, Marvin (yellow): $3500 &amp;divide; $2250 &amp;approx; 1.56&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;St. James, Tennesee, New York (orange): $2900 &amp;divide; $1500 &amp;approx; 1.93&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oriental, Vermont, Connecticut (light blue): $1700 &amp;divide; $750 &amp;approx; 2.27&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this measures, the &quot;light blues&quot; are the most remunerative investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing to note is that because of the &quot;Go to Jail&quot; square, one half of the board is much more &quot;traveled&quot; than the other. (Specifically the second and third rows.) This consideration seems to tip the balance in favor of the &quot;orange&quot; properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T19:57:37.877" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T19:57:37.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3966" CreationDate="2011-06-18T04:23:42.557" Score="7" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are points for each chess piece, but is there a way to - imprecisely, for sure - measure/point chess moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1441" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T20:04:00.783" Title="Is there a way to point chess moves?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3964" CreationDate="2011-06-18T05:55:40.730" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, that's how computer engines work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you start up ChessMaster and hit ctrl+m (&quot;mentor&quot;), it will give you a list of all the moves, and how the chess engine rates each of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it works is that the engine looks as far as it can for every move, assuming best play for both sides, and rates the final position.  That final position's rating is the value of the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To rate the position, the computer looks at material, space, pawn-structure, king-safety, known patterns and endgames, etc. etc. - basically, all the same things a human looks at, but the computer's not as good at it, because this is pattern matching, something computers are notoriously &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; at.  The only reason computers can beat humans is that the computer can see so far ahead so fast, and never makes mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, looking a computer's rating of different moves might help settle an argument, or help point out mistakes in your games after-the-fact, but learning how computers rate positions is not going to help you get better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T05:55:40.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3964" CreationDate="2011-06-18T07:16:06.467" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pawn = 1 point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bishop and knight = 3 points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rooks = 5 points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Queen = 9 points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But computers use a slightly more complicated way to count points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pawns&lt;/strong&gt;, depending how many there are on the board (&lt;strong&gt;close or open position&lt;/strong&gt;), depending on &lt;strong&gt;which file&lt;/strong&gt; they are positioned, if they are &lt;strong&gt;passed pawns&lt;/strong&gt;, if they are &lt;strong&gt;connected&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;on which rank&lt;/strong&gt; they are, in &lt;strong&gt;endgame or opening&lt;/strong&gt;, can have a relative value of 0,90 points to 3,5 points!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bishops&lt;/strong&gt; can have a better value than knights if the &lt;strong&gt;position is open&lt;/strong&gt; and / or &lt;strong&gt;both bishops are on the board.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Queen&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Rooks&lt;/strong&gt; can have a slightly lower value &lt;strong&gt;if the position is closed&lt;/strong&gt; while &lt;strong&gt;knights&lt;/strong&gt; are worth more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why some exchanges (knight for a bishop for example) are better for one or the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Points (decimal points) will vary more or less depending on the chess engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_piece_relative_value&quot;&gt;More details...&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T07:16:06.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3870" CreationDate="2011-06-18T07:24:36.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that has not been mentioned is opposite side castling. (can happen in some variation of the Sicilian)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can then storm the opponent's castle with pawns which results in a wide scale fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T07:24:36.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3970" CreationDate="2011-06-18T15:29:37.560" Score="14" ViewCount="15250" Body="&lt;p&gt;After I read about honors in bridge, I quickly started wondering why they were added to the scoring system. Its obviously a privilege to be holding the cards required, so I can see why the scoring might want to reward that. But isn't holding the honors and having the power of playing them enough? Why was it necessary to add an additional bonus just for having them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It feels like the rule is just adding luck to game that was designed to be about skill, in the sense of getting points for just getting the right cards, and not having to know anything about the strategy of how to play them. If you do hold the honors, you're almost definitely going to get more points because they allow you to take more tricks, which are the whole basis of how to get points anyway. Being automatically given points for receiving good cards that will help you win points during the actual game-play seems kind of paradoxical, almost like getting an extra $5000 every time you have a great idea that will let you make a lot &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than that if you are able to develop it skillfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the rule do any more than just give you points for what you should be able to use to get points anyway? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When does it actually influence your decisions in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How would bridge be different if it didn't have this rule?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm a very novice bridge player, and I'm sure that my reasoning is incorrect, but I've been unable to prove these assumptions wrong on my own, and thought you guys would be able to help a noob like me understand. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Honours                 Points&#xA;All 4 aces in NT        150&#xA;5 top trumps (AKQJT)    150&#xA;4 out of 5 top trumps   100&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T18:48:01.980" Title="Why is there a bonus for holding honors in bridge? Isn't having 4-5 of the highest trumps privileges enough?" Tags="|bridge|scoring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2011-06-18T17:34:16.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In games like bridge and mahjong, there are what I call &quot;simple&quot; wins (barely meeting the requirements) and &quot;compound&quot; wins (meeting the requirements with something extra to spare). The extra honors pretty much fall in the &quot;compound&quot; wins category, because cards in sequence are worth more than they are individually. That is, AKQJ is really worth MORE than ten honor points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paradoxically, it could alter the game by encouraging someone with AKQJ (or T) to bid game with an otherwise weak hand. That is, s/he wouldn't have bid game without the 100 or 150 honors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;USUALLY, that's not the case, however. Most of the time, I don't think it really alters the game. But it does represent an extra bonus for &quot;getting lucky.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-02-04T17:44:18.753" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T17:44:18.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2011-06-18T17:37:42.080" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule of honors applies to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; side. So if you are defending hearts holding AKQJ of hearts, you get the requisite number of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really does not matter that there is a bonus for this. In the long run, the luck factor will even out: as the points go above the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why this is there: Most of initial bridge (i.e. auction bridge) terms and rules (like rubber is two games etc) and initial scoring were derived from Whist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving points for honors is no different. Doing a bit of research turns up this book on Whist: &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=blYEAAAAQAAJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Bridgewater treatise on Whist&lt;/a&gt; which details out when the honor sequences can be used to add points to your score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I suppose some of the auction bridge rule makers felt like you did and made a rule for adding points for chicane: when you have a void in the trump suit. This seems to have been dropped from the current contract rubber bridge scoring though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to that making a difference, here is a story from the autobiography of Howard Schenken(Education of a Bridge Player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Howard Schenken was playing auction bridge (note: weird scoring) and held a hand with four Aces and a Queen, when he heard his RHO bid 1NT. Without thinking, he bid 2NT and was doubled. He went down 2. So he lost 200 and gained 100 (for the honors) for a net loss of 100. He later realized that if he had just passed, he would give 10 for 1NT (remember auction bridge scoring) but gained 100 for honors for a net gain of 90! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also remember there was a hand (possibly in Zia's autobiography Bridge My Way) where he was given a hand (as a wager) and asked &quot;Play or Defend&quot;. After going through all the possibilities, Zia decided to defend, getting the contract down 1. At which point the puzzle giver claimed money from Zia, because declarer has hundred honors!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contract rubber bridge, since the honor points go above the line, they ideally should not (drastically) change the way the game is played. Though, there will definitely be a difference, I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, holding xxx,AKQJT, Kxx, xx  you could potentially gamble a 3H bid over opponents 2S, get doubled, going down 1 but yet come out ahead as compared to letting them play 2S, because of the honor points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T18:48:01.980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T18:48:01.980" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3972" CreationDate="2011-06-18T17:43:15.457" Score="4" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;This opening begins by copying the Ruy Lopez/Morphy Defense for the first three moves, but White branches off with 4 Bxc6.  I've read that 4 ... dxc6 5 Nxe5 Qd4 is effective for Black to recover his pawn - but what if White does not play 5 Nxe5, say 5 O-O instead? In short, why has this opening been largely ignored?  Is there a disadvantage to White after 4 Bxc6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T03:03:59.793" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T03:03:59.793" Title="In chess, why is 1. e4 e5 2. Nf3 Nc6 3. Bb5 a6 4. Bxc6 rarely visited?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3971" CreationDate="2011-06-18T18:18:10.233" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called the &quot;Exchange&quot; Variation of the Ruy Lopez. Not only is there an early exchange of bishop for knight, but it usually soon leads to an exchange of queens on d4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This queen exchange brings about an early &quot;endgame,&quot; effectively cutting out the middle game. Most players are not particularly fond of the endgame, so they don't consider this an advantage, and therefore don't play this variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in a famous game in St. Petersburg in 1914, the world champion, Emmanuel Lasker, played this variation against future world champion Jose R Capablanca---and won. By Capablanca's own admission, &quot;Lasker had no superior in [the endgame]&quot; at the time. On the other hand, he already (and later) feared Capablanca's middle game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T18:18:10.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3971" CreationDate="2011-06-18T18:23:44.740" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It hasn't been ignored; this is called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ruy_Lopez,_Exchange_Variation&quot;&gt;Ruy Lopez Exchange variation&lt;/a&gt;, and is extremely popular in tournament play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;5. Nxe5&lt;/code&gt; is considered a small mistake (for the reasons you mentioned), but moves like &lt;code&gt;5. O-O&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;5. Nc3&lt;/code&gt; are perfectly acceptable, and are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/explorer?node=1112447&amp;amp;move=5&amp;amp;moves=e4.e5.Nf3.Nc6.Bb5.a6.Bxc6.dxc6&amp;amp;nodes=21720.21721.21722.21723.21724.21725.1112446.1112447&quot;&gt;played by grandmasters&lt;/a&gt; all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T01:22:40.380" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T01:22:40.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1615" CreationDate="2011-06-18T20:33:07.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantage of Upgrade is it helps to clean the junk (coppers, estates, and curses especially) out of your deck fast. And then, when you don't need them, turn the upgrades into gold or other 6 cost cards. Here as an example of game of how to use them effectively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201106/18/game-20110618-132616-55486cf0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201106/18/game-20110618-132616-55486cf0.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1445" LastActivityDate="2011-06-18T20:33:07.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3964" CreationDate="2011-06-18T22:46:25.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I add points for movements of PIECES:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, a rook is normally worth five points. But if has been moved to the &quot;seventh&quot; rank, (next to the opponents' pawns), I consider it a SIX point rook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;bishop pair,&quot; in an OPEN position against two knights or a bishop and a knight is worth more like SEVEN points, rather than six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A knight is usually worth three points. But if it has found an outpost at say, e4, e5, or e6, maybe f5 or f6, in a &quot;hole&quot; from which it cannot be dislodged, it is a FOUR point knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A pawn is usually worth one point. But if has moved to a square past opponents' pawns so that it is a &quot;passed&quot; pawn, it is worth TWO points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all significant advantages, enough to win a game BY THEMSELVES, even if everything ELSE is equal. Basically, you're an extra &quot;point&quot; ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T20:04:00.783" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T20:04:00.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3844" CreationDate="2011-06-19T01:07:06.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the introduction of &quot;victory cities,&quot; the revised edition tilts the game towards Asia and the Pacific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seven new cities have been added to the original roster of five (Tokyo, Washington, London, Berlin and Moscow). The new ones are Paris, Rome, Leningrad, Los Angeles, Calcutta, Manila and Shanghai.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of these, Paris, Rome, and Leningrad had natural importance in the early editions, en route to Berlin and Moscow, respectively. The Allies actually captured Rome and Paris on their way to Berlin, and arguably, the Germans should have secured Leningrad before attempting Moscow. In a sense, their importance had not changed, only their &quot;scoring.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Los Angeles, Manila, Shanghai and Calcutta have now taken the importance of the other three cities. They are worth fighting for in their own right, rather than just for a few IPCs. Put another way, there are 166 IPCs on the new board and 12 victory cities, meaning that pro rata, each victory city is equivalent to about 14 IPCs. In the old edition, only Los Angeles had anywhere close to that importance. Now it makes sense for both the U.S. and Japan to fight a war in the Pacific instead of heading their forces toward Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other important change is victory conditions. In the old editions, the Allies were forced to aim for &quot;total victory&quot;  while the Axis were encouraged to go for a major victory (all except the U.S.). (Both of these would be after the implied &quot;mopping up&quot;). &#xA;There are now minor and moderate victory conditions. The Axis can win a minor victory early by capturing, say, Leningrad and Calcutta, which is more than adequate compensation for the loss of the economic victory option. If the Germans had captured Leningrad and Japan had gone for India instead of Pearl Harbor, the Axis might have gotten a &quot;negotiated&quot; peace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T13:57:00.657" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T13:57:00.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3978" CreationDate="2011-06-19T01:24:05.357" Score="10" ViewCount="4813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several chess books, all of which use the P-K4 type of notation rather than the e4 type.  I am still more used to the older form, since those books were my first introduction to chess literature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to find out if anyone still uses it or can read it (1 P-K4, P-KB4; 2 N-KB3, N-QB3; etc).  As far as I've seen, it's only in books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:01:18.630" Title="Does anyone use the P-K4 type of chess notation anymore?" Tags="|chess|notation|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2011-06-19T01:41:19.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new way of notating - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algebraic_chess_notation&quot;&gt;algebraic notation&lt;/a&gt; - has pretty much completely replaced the old way - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Descriptive_chess_notation&quot;&gt;descriptive notation&lt;/a&gt;.  Most people nowadays use algebraic notation, except old players who are very stuck in their ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is still a purpose in learning descriptive notation:  reading old books.  Some of my favorite old chess books are only available in descriptive notation, so you have to be able to keep track of long series of moves in descriptive notation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T01:41:19.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2011-06-19T03:45:10.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's much easier to work the game in your head with descriptive notation, so it's good if you're reading the game.  Descriptive notation lets you know overtly which piece took which, like PxQ.  Having said that, it's not used much anymore, you'll only see it in old references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Algebraic notation was adopted by FIDE because most of the world used it, so it was international, even if the letters used were different in different countries.  It was pushed in the US in the 70s with Fisher's success, since chess was booming then, and so were book sales.  The book publishers didn't want to have to print two different versions of the book for different notation markets.  It really caught on in the US once chess-playing computers and software came out, since most of those used it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Algebraic notation's first recorded use was in The Noble Game of Chess by Philipp Stamma in 1745:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qoRsQ.gif&quot; alt=&quot;First Algebraic Notation Recorded&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-19T05:29:01.237" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T05:29:01.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="159" CreationDate="2011-06-19T22:01:08.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's all how you build your deck. Everyone should be playing from the same deck. I've just recently found the game and am planning to pull it out at the next friendly get-together I go to. I don't have a rule book anymore, so maybe that's why I'm not haunted by the 'official rules'. But I did use the rules I could remember and play tested a few solitare games, I know it will play much easier and be more interesting when there are two or more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's how I played. All cards are now unique. When I built the deck I tried to keep it down to one police station, one fire station ect. 100 card deck (for now) I did include the the Phase 1 guard house (but I love the Phase 1 colonial era cards) as a bonus. Only one power plant of any kind can be played, after the first is played, players just discard any they draw in the future, UNLESS it is a phase 4 power plant, then it may replace the existing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing a zone: I think it makes sense to award a bonus point for each connection you join when you play a zone. For instance, you play a road block next to another road block, you get a point. You can earn up to three bonus points this way (road, rail, power lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split the game into 'rounds' or agree to a point goal. A round is defined when all players have finished their turns. So for large groups maybe you just say, lets play five rounds and whoever has the most points wins. A point goal would be something along the lines of, whoever has reached $250 at the end of a round wins, if two or more players have done this in the same round, whoever has the most points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players split up duties along with keeping track of their own points. This is still not the most appealing, but it's part of the game. It will slow the game down, but hey, this isn't meant to be a fast paced action packed shoot 'em up game, lol. Each player also needs to write down the cards they have played (generically names cards like River, Forest, ect just place a scrap of paper with the player name on it), this will help keep things sorted out. Each time something is played everyone should be looking to see if it effects them, this will keep people engaged even when it's not their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following needs to be counted (Road/Rail means the card has both): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poulation: Total Population, Road Population, Rail Population, Road/Rail Population&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jobs: Total Jobs, Road Jobs, Rail Jobs, and Road/Rail Jobs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crime (don't forget to minus Police coverage)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't play a card that requires Sims, unless you have enough available sims to run it. Rail bussinesses need rail or road/rail sims, ect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buildings covered by the Police/Fire stations need to be kept track of by the player who placed the station. 0 crime blocks can be covered by the police station for points at no coverage usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complexes (Farm 2, Hospital 4, Univertity 1, ect), which I always loved, just need to be placed adjacent to another complex card to get the bonus points (you don't need four anymore).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the city grows, the point bonuses will get huge, BUT, I do feel that's how it should be, the more developed your city is, the more services it provides, the more value everything has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was other stuff and I'm still flushing this out. Hope this helps anyone else who wishes to mess around with this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1448" LastActivityDate="2011-06-19T22:01:08.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3843" CreationDate="2011-06-20T00:07:21.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I see it there are two independent questions being asked here. One is how to play a short game and the other is how to deal with having fewer than seven players. I'll discuss them separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First what to do when time is scarce. There are two ways I know of to deal with this. One is to play an abridged version, the other is to ensure play proceeds at a decent pace. Apart from Tom's &quot;joint victory&quot; suggestion already mentioned, the other workable option I know of is to agree beforehand to play a fixed number of game years. Then when these game years are completed, whoever has the most centres on the board is declared the winner. (This is quite similar to some practices on the European diplomacy tournament circuit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different groups of diplomacy players play the game at vastly different speeds, and this can obviously have a big influence on how much a game can progress in a limited amount of time. Experienced players can get through one game year every 30 minutes, including adjudication and build phases. Most groups of players should be able to proceed at one game year every forty minutes or so. The best way I know of to achieve this is to have everyone agree to have their orders in the box as soon as the time for diplomacy runs out each turn (no &quot;order writing time&quot;). You might also like to try using DipTimer (free windows download) to run your games with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, what to do when you have fewer than seven players. I suspect that the main reason that there are options for fewer than seven players in the rulebook is so that they can advertise as &quot;for 2 to 7 players&quot; instead as &quot;for 7 players&quot;. The rulebook versions for 6 or fewer players play poorly. Better is to find and play a map variant designed for the number of players you have. These are variants where the rules are the same, but the map is different (you'll have to print one out). There are lots of variants that have been created and many are terrible. So the best bet is to find one that has been played often. Eg Ancient Mediterranean is a 5 player variant (map downloadable  at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.variantbank.org/results/rules/a/ancient_med.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.variantbank.org/results/rules/a/ancient_med.htm&lt;/a&gt;) that has a good reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the best way to solve the fewer than 7 problem is to ensure you have 7 players in the first place! There are many other people in similar situations to you, and there are groups of players over the world who play face-to-face diplomacy and are always looking for new players. If you find such a group geographically near to you, you hopefully don't have to resort to the contortions of the previous paragraph. Your favourite search engine is good for finding such people, as is the website &lt;a href=&quot;http://diplom.org/Face/hobby_info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://diplom.org/Face/hobby_info/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T00:07:21.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-20T01:47:02.420" Score="17" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up this game for my 2-year-old daughter, who is learning how to count. I find this game fairly infuriating to play by the actual rules. It contains a spinner with the 7 following outcomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 1 Cherry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 2 Cherries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 3 Cherries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 4 Cherries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose 2 Cherries (x2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose all Cherries&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play is to 10 Cherries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: On average, how many spins will it take to finish the game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Edit: I had another question about &quot;expected # of Cherries gained from a spin,&quot; but it turns out to be rather difficult to define due to that pesky &quot;lose all your Cherries&quot; option.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T03:15:43.370" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T03:15:43.370" Title="How many spins does it take to complete a game of Hi Ho! Cherry-O?" Tags="|probability|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2011-06-20T06:15:18.680" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following calculations are based on having an equal probability of being at any particular number (0-9), when the spinner is spun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected number of Cherries per spin can be calculated as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Contributions of Spin (1/7 probability ea):&#xA;&#xA;   1:  (1*10)/10                  = 1&#xA;   2:  (2*9+1)/10                 = 1.9&#xA;   3:  (3*8+2+1)/10               = 2.7&#xA;   4:  (4*7+3+2+1)/10             = 3.4&#xA;  -2:  -(2*8+1+0)/10              = -1.7&#xA;  -2:  -(2*8+1+0)/10              = -1.7&#xA;-all:  -(0+1+2+3+4+5+6+7+8+9)/10  = -4.5&#xA;&#xA;                            Total = 1.1&#xA;&#xA;Total/7 = 0.157143 &amp;lt;-- expected value&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So theoretically, the average game should take &lt;code&gt;10/0.157143 = 63.5&lt;/code&gt; spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note with much more precision, it comes out to &lt;code&gt;63.636363....&lt;/code&gt; spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now run a simulation to figure out the probabilities for what your score is when you spin and get the &lt;code&gt;Lose All&lt;/code&gt; result.  I ran 3 10,000,000 simulations and averaged the results for the ALL, and 1 10,000,000 simulation for the others, so here are the new calculations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Contributions of Spin (1/7 probability ea):&#xA;&#xA;   1:  (1*10)/10                  = 1&#xA;   2:  (2*9*0.967145 +&#xA;        1  *0.032855)/10          = 1.74415&#xA;   3:  (3*8*0.923705 +&#xA;        2  *0.043412 +&#xA;        1  *0.032884)/10          = 2.22886&#xA;   4:  (4*7*0.865895 +&#xA;        3  *0.058240 +&#xA;        2  *0.042263 +&#xA;        1  *0.033602)/10          = 2.45379&#xA;  -2: -(2*8*0.563137 +&#xA;        1  *0.079143 +&#xA;        0  *0.357720)/10          = -0.90893&#xA;  -2: -(2*8*0.563137 +&#xA;        1  *0.079143 +&#xA;        0  *0.357720)/10          = -0.90893&#xA;-all:  -(0 * .358065 + &#xA;         1 * .078969 +&#xA;         2 * .092976 +&#xA;         3 * .094948 +&#xA;         4 * .107013 +&#xA;         5 * .069808 +&#xA;         6 * .064553 +&#xA;         7 * .057246 +&#xA;         8 * .042941 +&#xA;         9 * .033480)             = -2.75975&#xA;&#xA;                            Total = 2.84919&#xA;&#xA;Total/7 = 0.40703 &amp;lt;-- expected value&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So theoretically, the average game should take &lt;code&gt;10/0.40703 = 24.56839&lt;/code&gt; spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T21:14:07.637" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T21:14:07.637" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2011-06-20T09:18:43.517" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mathematics to take into account the fact it cuts off at 0 and 10 (i.e. spinning -2 when you are on 1 will leave you on 0, not -1) and the &quot;loose all&quot; result are quite complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I've opted for a simulation. This was run with 10,000,000 simulations, which should be more than enough to get a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a histogram of the result. The x-axis shows the number of spins, while the y-axis shows the number of results in the simulation that took that number of spins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZYb6E.png&quot; alt=&quot;Graph showing number of spins against frequency, with an average of 15.8&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average (mean), shown by the red line, is 15.8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the C# code I used to generate the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;using System;&#xA;using System.Linq;&#xA;using System.Collections.Generic;&#xA;&#xA;public static class CherryO {&#xA;    private static Random rng = new Random();&#xA;&#xA;    const int NumRuns = 10000000;&#xA;    const int NumSquares = 10;&#xA;&#xA;    public static void Main() {&#xA;        int total = 0;&#xA;        Dictionary&amp;lt;int, int&amp;gt; totalTurns = new Dictionary&amp;lt;int, int&amp;gt;();&#xA;&#xA;        for (int i = 0; i &amp;lt; NumRuns; i += 1) {&#xA;            int turns = GetNumTurns(NumSquares);&#xA;            total += turns;&#xA;            if (!totalTurns.ContainsKey(turns)) {&#xA;                totalTurns.Add(turns, 1);&#xA;            } else {&#xA;                totalTurns[turns] += 1;&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;&#xA;        int max = totalTurns.Keys.Max();&#xA;        for (int i = 0; i &amp;lt;= max; i += 1) {&#xA;            if (!totalTurns.ContainsKey(i)) {&#xA;                totalTurns.Add(i, 0);&#xA;            }&#xA;            Console.Write(&quot;{0} &quot;, i);&#xA;        }&#xA;&#xA;        Console.WriteLine();&#xA;&#xA;        var list = from kvPair in totalTurns&#xA;                   orderby kvPair.Value&#xA;                   select kvPair.Key;&#xA;        foreach (int i in list) {&#xA;            Console.Write(&quot;{0} &quot;, i);&#xA;        }&#xA;&#xA;        Console.WriteLine((double)total / NumRuns);&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;    public static int GetNumTurns(int target) {&#xA;        int position = 0;&#xA;        int turns = 0;&#xA;&#xA;        while (true) {&#xA;            int spin = GetSpin();&#xA;            turns += 1;&#xA;&#xA;            if (spin == 0) {&#xA;                position = 0;&#xA;            } else {&#xA;                position += spin;&#xA;            }&#xA;&#xA;            if (position &amp;gt;= target) {&#xA;                return turns;&#xA;            }&#xA;&#xA;            if (position &amp;lt; 0) {&#xA;                position = 0;&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;    public static int GetSpin() {&#xA;        int result = rng.Next(0, 7);&#xA;&#xA;        if (result == 5 || result == 6) {&#xA;            return -2;&#xA;        }&#xA;&#xA;        return result;&#xA;    }&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="625" LastEditorUserId="625" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T18:14:01.123" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T18:14:01.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3988" CreationDate="2011-06-20T12:42:22.187" Score="4" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many Knight moves is it possible to execute on an empty chess board before the Knight lands on a square it has already landed on in its previous moves?  The most I've ever been able to land on was 54 squares, usually 50-52.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T12:58:13.710" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T13:55:33.340" Title="How far can a knight travel without visiting the same square twice?" Tags="|chess|puzzles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3986" CreationDate="2011-06-20T13:00:34.537" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a famous puzzle called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knight%27s_tour&quot;&gt;Knight's Tour&lt;/a&gt; in which the aim is to visit every square exactly once.  Since this has several solutions, the answer to your question is that it can visit all 64 squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T13:00:34.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3993" CreationDate="2011-06-20T14:34:31.290" Score="10" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of 1 b3 and 1 g3, but never any of those in the question title.  Is this because they do not work in practical play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried 1. g4 d5 2. h3 e5 3. d4 Nc6 etc. with a good chance of a strong Bishop-pair and Queen for White.  White must castle Queenside, and will develop his Knight to f3 soon.  I played a couple trial games with myself, and haven't yet tried it on anyone else.  Perhaps some variation on this brash opening is more effective?  I'd like to know if anyone's studied this type of opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="1444" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T21:33:41.060" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T21:33:41.060" Title="Are there any reputable chess openings which begin a4, b4, g4, or h4?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4207" CreationDate="2011-06-20T15:20:30.820" Score="0" ViewCount="2881" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compared to South Africa and India, Australia, is, or can be made safer from, Axis occupation. It also has the potential to be &quot;relevant.&quot; This may be more true in the newer versions, such as AA revised, where there are four Asian &quot;victory&quot; cities, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3844/how-does-the-introduction-of-victory-cities-in-axis-allies-revised-change-gamep/3976#3976&quot;&gt;How does the introduction of victory cities in Axis &amp;amp; Allies revised change gameplay and strategy?&lt;/a&gt; but is somewhat true even in the second edition, with which I am more familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variation, I'd move the fighter from India to Australia, and the Indian transport with one of two infantry to Australia. Here, I could make a case for leaving NO infantry in India, in line with a question by another gamer. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3756/when-retreating-from-a-compromised-territory-should-you-always-leave-one-infantry&quot;&gt;When retreating from a compromised territory should you always leave one infantry?&lt;/a&gt; But I prefer to leave one in India on the theory that it would tie up a Japanese offensive unit (a fighter or battleship) that might attack otherwise be used to attack Australia. Otherwise, the transfer of the UK fighter and infantry more or less safeguards the continent from amphibious attack by Japanese infantry in e.g., the Philippines supported by the battleship located in the Caroline islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two plausible plans that follow a  first turn build of a factory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under plan 1, the second turn build would be an aircraft carrier and an infantry, followed by an &quot;island hopping&quot; campaign with the fighter (on the carrier) and amphibious infantry  against the East Indies, Borneo, and New Guinea, followed by the Philippines. This increases the UK's IPCS and reduces Japan's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under plan 2, I'd build infantry and another transport or two for a shuttle service to Madagascar and ultimately Africa (with one transport as a &quot;bridge&quot; between that island and the continent. This would be a particularly worthwhile strategy if the US builds a factory in Brazil. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3608/in-axis-and-allies-should-the-u-s-build-a-factory-in-brazil&quot;&gt;In Axis and Allies, Should the U.S. Build a &amp;quot;Factory&amp;quot; in Brazil?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are the type of UK player that likes to build a factory in South Africa or India, would you build it in Australia instead? If you don't like to build those factories because of the possibility that the Axis can capture them, and make them Axis assets, would Australia's greater safety tip the balance in favor of this strategy? And perhaps the answer does matter from one edition of the game to another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:24:57.350" Title="In Axis and Allies, should the UK Build a factory in Australia?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2011-06-20T15:25:43.593" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;These would be classified as A00: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irregular_chess_openings&quot;&gt;Irregular Openings&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with 1. a4 is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ware_Opening&quot;&gt;Ware's Opening&lt;/a&gt;; 1. b4 is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sokolsky_Opening&quot;&gt;Sokolsky's Opening&lt;/a&gt;; 1. g4 is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grob%27s_Attack&quot;&gt;Grob's Attack&lt;/a&gt;; 1. h4 is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desprez_Opening&quot;&gt;Desprez Opening&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've noted, these are not played often. The database at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/explorer&quot;&gt;chessgames.com&lt;/a&gt; shows only 548 games starting with 1. b4, 260 with 1. g4, and just 10 each for 1. a4 and 1. h4. White has only a small advantage within all A00 openings, 38.5% to 35.1%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T15:25:43.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2011-06-20T15:33:53.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These openings are considered &quot;irregular,&quot; and therefore not totally reputable. There are two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first reason is that unlike c4, d4, e4, and f4, they do not begin a fight for the key center squares. You can make the case that b4 and g4 open the way for a bishop to be &quot;fianchettoed,&quot; but they get the player &quot;involved&quot; in other ways. B3 and g3 are &quot;safer,&quot; but lackluster versions of these moves. And the pawn on g4 blocks the bishop on h3 unless you move it further. But in any event, white is likely to get behind in development with such an awkward, clumsy opening, even though s/he shouldn't by virtue of moving first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second reason is that kings generally prefer to castle into the corners on one side or another. These moves of side pawns open up the corners prematurely, making it hard for your king to castle. They may be good moves LATER in the game (depending on the situation with the OPPOSING king), but playing them on the first or second move gives the opponent too much time to take evasive action, thereby robbing you of the potential benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T15:39:56.863" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T15:39:56.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2011-06-20T16:22:53.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a pretty interesting question. I also decided to write a simulation. The results are quite interesting, and tend to show a bit about how careful you have to be to get a good simulation. For those who care, here's a bit of code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit: replacing code due to stupid mistake]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;[Edit2: added code to compute average gain per spin]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#include &amp;lt;iostream&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;time.h&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;vector&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;numeric&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &amp;lt;algorithm&amp;gt;&#xA;#include &quot;bounded.h&quot;&#xA;&#xA;static const int win = 10;&#xA;static const int games = 20000000;&#xA;static const int init[] = { 1, 2, 3, 4, -2, -2, -10};&#xA;&#xA;int rand_lim(int limit) {&#xA;    int divisor = RAND_MAX/(limit+1);&#xA;    int retval;&#xA;&#xA;    do { &#xA;        retval = rand() / divisor;&#xA;    } while (retval &amp;gt; limit);&#xA;&#xA;    return retval;&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;int main(){ &#xA;    srand(unsigned(time(NULL)));&#xA;    std::vector&amp;lt;char&amp;gt; spin_vals(init, init+7);&#xA;    std::vector&amp;lt;char&amp;gt; gains;&#xA;&#xA;    std::vector&amp;lt;char&amp;gt; spins;&#xA;    unsigned total_spins = 0;&#xA;&#xA;    for (unsigned game=0; game&amp;lt;games; game++) {&#xA;        unsigned current_spins = 0;&#xA;        bounded&amp;lt;int, 0, win&amp;gt; current_game_val;&#xA;        while (current_game_val != win) {&#xA;            ++total_spins;&#xA;            ++current_spins;&#xA;            int current_spin = spin_vals[rand_lim(spin_vals.size()-1)];&#xA;            int old_val = current_game_val;&#xA;            current_game_val = current_game_val + current_spin;&#xA;            gains.push_back(current_game_val - old_val);&#xA;        }&#xA;        spins.push_back(current_spins);&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;    double mean_spins = (double)total_spins / games;&#xA;&#xA;    std::cout &amp;lt;&amp;lt; &quot;Mean spins/game: &quot; &amp;lt;&amp;lt; mean_spins &amp;lt;&amp;lt; &quot;\n&quot;;&#xA;&#xA;    std::vector&amp;lt;char&amp;gt;::iterator median = spins.begin()+games/2;&#xA;&#xA;    std::nth_element(spins.begin(), median, spins.end());&#xA;&#xA;    std::cout &amp;lt;&amp;lt; &quot;Median spins/game: &quot; &amp;lt;&amp;lt; (int)*median &amp;lt;&amp;lt; &quot;\n&quot;;&#xA;&#xA;    double total_gains = std::accumulate(gains.begin(), gains.end(), 0.0);&#xA;&#xA;    double mean_gain = total_gains / gains.size();&#xA;&#xA;    std::cout &amp;lt;&amp;lt; &quot;Mean gain per spin: &quot; &amp;lt;&amp;lt; mean_gain &amp;lt;&amp;lt; &quot;\n&quot;;&#xA;&#xA;    return 0;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For output, I get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mean spins/game: 15.7967&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Median spins/game: 12&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mean gain per spin: 0.633044&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gain per spin seems to fit with the number of spins per game -- if it takes ~16 spins to get to 10, then the average gain per spin should be ~10/16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1454" LastEditorUserId="1454" LastEditDate="2011-06-20T19:36:43.190" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T19:36:43.190" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2011-06-20T17:04:29.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually had &lt;code&gt;1. b4&lt;/code&gt; played against me in tournaments; it's awkward, but not unsound like &lt;code&gt;1. a4&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;1. h4&lt;/code&gt; - the idea is to fianchetto the bishop to b2 as fast as possible, even if it means sacrificing the pawn.  Personally, however, I don't believe the pawn-sacrifice is worth the extra space white gains vs. playing the alternative, &lt;code&gt;1. b3&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. g4&lt;/code&gt; is also playable for the same reasons, but even more rare than &lt;code&gt;1.b4&lt;/code&gt;, because it forces white to castle on the queen's side (which means waiting at least one-extra move).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T17:04:29.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="3999" CreationDate="2011-06-20T17:06:04.317" Score="5" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;White's back row would look like this: RBNQKNBR and Black's would undergo an equivalent change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I learn more about this variant/play this variant with someone experienced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T12:09:41.833" Title="Is there a variant of chess such that in the starting position Bishops and Knights are switched?" Tags="|chess|variants|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-06-20T17:16:59.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is one form of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Displacement_chess&quot;&gt;Displacement chess&lt;/a&gt;, though I don't know that it has its own name, or any sites/books dedicated to studying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T17:16:59.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="3999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-06-20T17:19:54.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swapping the knights and bishops is one version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Displacement_chess&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;displacement chess&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure what you wish to learn though; the main aim of displacement chess systems, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess960&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fischer random chess&lt;/a&gt;, is to negate the benefit of rote learning. Learning how to play this variant well by studying sounds like a strange goal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T17:19:54.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3756" CreationDate="2011-06-20T18:10:28.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In answer to your subquestion of &quot;why does it make sense to leave one infantry in a territory you're retreating from?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core of the analysis around this hinges on the assumption that you will be trading back and forth over the contested territory with small numbers of units- that you have a large, constantly growing stack in A, your opponent has a large, constantly growing stack in C, and you keep trading off B between the two territories with as small stacks as you can manage. Each player has a steady supply chain providing new troops from the factory. The reason why you do this is because if you move your large stack into the territory, it will be missing the current turn's set of reinforcements, and be unable to use your planes for defense, and your opponent can attack with their whole stack and use all their planes for offense. This is the whole idea of Dead Zones. You want to control them because they're worth IPCs, but with as few units as possible because those units will be destroyed by a counterattack next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why leave a lone infantry there? Because if it's empty, your opponent can take it with the bare minimum of units, and their planes are free to attack elsewhere. If it isn't, they are forced to commit some of their planes to it, and it's economically in their interest to send 2 infantry. Even if that is a good trade for him (you will lose your 1 infantry for only a 33% chance of killing one of his) the next turn, you will be able to kill both his infantry, an even better trade for you! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then what about the title question: Should you &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; leave one infantry? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Almost always, but not always. If your opponent will move in with his whole stack next turn (because it's big enough that yours is no longer a threat) the lone infantry is no longer economically in your favor. You will be trading an infantry for a 33% chance to kill an infantry, which is not effective. You might still do it to prevent a blitz but it's no longer automatically good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the territory is only worth 1IPC. Generally, the territories you have these big-stack standoffs over are worth more than 1, so this doesn't come up. For a 1IPC territory, it no longer makes your opponent want to send in 2 infantry. The expected value for him attacking your lone infantry with 1 infantry + 1 fighter will be approximately 7/6, while the value he'll get from just waltzing into the territory uncontested will be 6/6. You might still do it to block a blitz or just to force the opportunity cost of him using his planes. But if he has more planes than he knows what to do with and no blitz threat, you wouldn't want leave the guy there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1126" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T18:10:28.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3843" CreationDate="2011-06-20T18:30:07.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;May I introduce you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/122/quo-vadis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quo Vadis&lt;/a&gt; by Reiner Knizia? You play a family that tries to reach the senate in the ancient Rome. The only way to go up from a politic chamber to another, up to the senate, it's to negotiate with others. You must have the votes of at least half the chamber to go up. This game is made for 5 players and really works like Diplomacy. I would suggest you to try it with your friends and you will see that the game is very much like Diplomacy concerning the negotiations. About the time it takes, you can play it 2-3 times in 3 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy playing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2023-02-23T19:20:19.280" LastActivityDate="2023-02-23T19:20:19.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3997" CreationDate="2011-06-20T20:24:26.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a call for this kind of switch when it is felt that chess is &quot;too well understood.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first call was about eighty years ago from former world champion Jose R. Capablanca. He embraced a &quot;scientific&quot; form of chess, took it to a high level, and then he (and his admirers) felt that there was little left to learn about in chess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it turned out, the Russians came along with a new, fighting, kind of chess that enabled them to defeat the &quot;scientific&quot; players. Only Bobby Fischer, among Americans, was able to play them on their own terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's no accident nowadays that there are new calls for changing the game, because high speed computers like Big Blue have made a science of analyzing the old one. Human masters like Kasparov (a &quot;Russian&quot;) now feel inferior to computers at this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T20:24:26.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4005" CreationDate="2011-06-20T20:58:12.323" Score="5" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I saw the game in an encyclopedia, and I remember being impressed.  Now, I'd like to find it again.  Is there some inventory of famous games I can find it in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T21:31:39.313" Title="Where can I find Bobby Fischer's debut game?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2011-06-20T21:26:03.450" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the work that's been done so far, it seemed to me that this is basically just a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Markov_chain#Games&quot;&gt;Markov chain&lt;/a&gt;, and in looking for ways to calculate Markov chains, I found that someone has been there and &lt;a href=&quot;http://math.byu.edu/~jeffh/mathematics/games/cherry/cherry.html&quot;&gt;done that&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data from his work matches the simulations here, which should be no surprise given that the rules are very easy to code:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Minimum game length: 3&#xA;Expected game length: 15.8&#xA;Maximum game length: Unbounded&#xA;50th percentile (median): 12&#xA;95th percentile: 40&#xA;25th percentile: 7&#xA;75th percentile: 21&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also posts the &lt;a href=&quot;http://math.byu.edu/~jeffh/mathematics/games/cherry/cherry.m&quot;&gt;Matlab code&lt;/a&gt; that he used to calculate the chain ... it's actually pretty simple, comparatively speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Markov chain transition matrix shown below lists the probabilities of transitioning from one state (i.e. number of cherries pre-spin) to another (number of cherries post-spin).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          # of cherries after spin&#xA;       0   1   2   3   4   5   6   7   8   9  10&#xA;     --------------------------------------------&#xA;  0 | 3/7 1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7  0   0   0   0   0   0&#xA;  1 | 3/7  0  1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7  0   0   0   0   0&#xA;# 2 | 3/7  0   0  1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7  0   0   0   0&#xA;  3 | 1/7 2/7  0   0  1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7  0   0   0&#xA;b 4 | 1/7  0  2/7  0   0  1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7  0   0&#xA;e 5 | 1/7  0   0  2/7  0   0  1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7  0&#xA;f 6 | 1/7  0   0   0  2/7  0   0  1/7 1/7 1/7 1/7&#xA;o 7 | 1/7  0   0   0   0  2/7  0   0  1/7 1/7 2/7&#xA;r 8 | 1/7  0   0   0   0   0  2/7  0   0  1/7 3/7&#xA;e 9 | 1/7  0   0   0   0   0   0  2/7  0   0  3/7&#xA; 10 |  0   0   0   0   0   0   0   0   0   0   0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T03:28:10.043" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T03:28:10.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4003" CreationDate="2011-06-20T21:31:39.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Presumably you're talking about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Game_of_the_Century_%28chess%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game of the Century&lt;/a&gt;, in which 13-year-old Bobby Fischer beat IM (International Master) Donald Byrne, winning a brilliancy prize in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was of course not Bobby Fischer's &quot;debut&quot; game in that he had played plenty of other tournament games before this; in fact, he &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bobby_Fischer#Young_champion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;won the United States Junior Chess Championship&lt;/a&gt; almost a year beforehand.  However, this is the &quot;earliest&quot; game most people think of when they hear &quot;Bobby Fischer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4axW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Game of the Century&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;13-year-old Bobby Fischer plays 17... Be6!!, sacrificing his queen&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for an inventory of famous games:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_chess_games&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a list.  Chessmaster also comes with a list of famous games annotated by Grandmasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-06-20T21:31:39.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3983" CreationDate="2011-06-20T23:25:39.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote something to enumerate the relevant states and then print out the probabilities it found that way. Somehow a simulation felt like a cop-out to me :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this game is for more than one player? And it ends when ANY player gets 10 cherries, right? The code and results below assume that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwlOC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probability of Hi-Ho Cherry-O Ending (2 players)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the two-player case, I got a mean end turn of around 9.56. Since I was counting turns as every player spinning once, that's two spins per turn, so let's say that &lt;strong&gt;in the mean case, it takes between 19 and 20 spins for the game to end when two people are playing&lt;/strong&gt;. It looks like the median is lower: about 15 spins, so half of the two-player games should end on or before the 15th spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original question makes it sound like the one-player case is what was being considered so here is the info for that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iR6Jc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probability of Hi-Ho Cherry-O Ending (1 player)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For one player: the mean game length is 15.8 spins and the median game length is between 11 and 12 turns (half end on or before 11, half on or after 12 spins).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the code to generate the data used above. Warning: It gets really slow as you add players (exponential runtime in number of players, but only quadratic in terms of the number of turns). You can change the values of turn_cap and num_players at the top of the file to match what you want to find out. It only enumerates up to turn_cap, because you probably don't care beyond that. Games that end later ARE still taken into account, it just doesn't spit out data for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Python 2.5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;from copy import deepcopy&#xA;from sys import stdout&#xA;num_players = 2&#xA;turn_cap = 50 # I assume everybody is sick of it by this point&#xA;print_merges = False&#xA;print_num_states = False&#xA;print_turn_progress = True&#xA;ignore_score_of_finished_games = True&#xA;&#xA;def flatten(list_of_lists):&#xA;    r&quot;&quot;&quot;helper for flattening a list of lists into a single list&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    return [item for sub_list in list_of_lists for item in sub_list]&#xA;def count(iterable,p=bool):&#xA;    r&quot;&quot;&quot;return for how many items in iterable the predicate p evaluates to true&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    n = 0&#xA;    for item in iterable:&#xA;        if p(item):&#xA;            n += 1&#xA;    return n&#xA;def lists_the_same(l0,l1):&#xA;    return len(l0)==len(l1) and \&#xA;           all(l0[i]==l1[i] for i in range(len(l0))) &#xA;def split_list(items,p):&#xA;    r&quot;&quot;&quot;split the list &quot;items&quot; into two lists based on a predicate &quot;p&quot;&#xA;&#xA;    returns a tuple. (items where the predicate is true, items where the predicate is false) &quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    good, bad = [], []&#xA;    for i in items:&#xA;        if p(i):&#xA;            good.append(i)&#xA;        else:&#xA;            bad.append(i)&#xA;    return good, bad&#xA;class World:&#xA;    def __init__(self, num_players=2, probability=1.0):&#xA;        self.player_scores = [0 for x in range(num_players)]&#xA;        self.probability = probability&#xA;        self.turn_number = 0&#xA;        self.ended_on_turn = None&#xA;        self.num_players = num_players&#xA;    def check_win(self):&#xA;        if any(( (score&amp;gt;=10) for score in self.player_scores)):&#xA;            self.ended_on_turn = self.turn_number   &#xA;    def gain_cherries(self, player_index, num_cherries):&#xA;        self.player_scores[player_index] += num_cherries&#xA;        self.check_win()&#xA;    def lose_cherries(self, player_index, num_cherries):&#xA;        self.player_scores[player_index] = max(0, self.player_scores[player_index] - num_cherries)&#xA;    def lose_all_cherries(self, player_index):&#xA;        self.player_scores[player_index] = 0&#xA;    def run_turn(self):&#xA;        r&quot;&quot;&quot;if not ended, it splits the world into 7 new worlds based on each player's spin&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;        if None==self.ended_on_turn:&#xA;            self.turn_number += 1&#xA;            worlds = [self]&#xA;            for i in range(self.num_players):&#xA;                worlds = flatten([w.run_player_turn(i) for w in worlds])&#xA;            return worlds&#xA;        else:&#xA;            return [self]&#xA;    def run_player_turn(self, player_index):&#xA;        new_worlds = [deepcopy(self) for i in range(7)]&#xA;        for w in new_worlds:&#xA;            w.probability = self.probability / 7.0&#xA;        new_worlds[0].gain_cherries(player_index,1)&#xA;        new_worlds[1].gain_cherries(player_index,2)&#xA;        new_worlds[2].gain_cherries(player_index,3)&#xA;        new_worlds[3].gain_cherries(player_index,4)&#xA;        new_worlds[4].lose_cherries(player_index,2)&#xA;        new_worlds[5].lose_cherries(player_index,2)&#xA;        new_worlds[6].lose_all_cherries(player_index)&#xA;        return new_worlds&#xA;    def mergable(self, other):&#xA;        if world_ended(self) and ignore_score_of_finished_games:&#xA;            return ( (self.ended_on_turn == other.ended_on_turn) and&#xA;                     (self.num_players == other.num_players) )&#xA;        else:&#xA;            return ( lists_the_same(self.player_scores, other.player_scores) and&#xA;                     (self.turn_number == other.turn_number) and&#xA;                     (self.ended_on_turn == other.ended_on_turn) and&#xA;                     (self.num_players == other.num_players) )&#xA;    def merge(self, other):&#xA;        w = deepcopy(self)&#xA;        w.probability += other.probability&#xA;        return w&#xA;    def __str__(self):&#xA;        return ( str(self.player_scores) + &quot;, &quot; +&#xA;                 &quot;p:&quot; + str(self.probability) + &quot;, &quot; +&#xA;                 &quot;ended on:&quot; + str(self.ended_on_turn) + &quot;, &quot; )&#xA;def collapse_duplicate_worlds(world_list):&#xA;    r&quot;&quot;&quot;look through the list of worlds, find ones that can be merged &#xA;    and merge them, modifying the list in place&quot;&quot;&quot;&#xA;    i0 = 0&#xA;    while i0 &amp;lt; len(world_list):&#xA;        i1 = len(world_list) - 1&#xA;        while i1 &amp;gt; i0+1:&#xA;            w0 = world_list[i0]&#xA;            w1 = world_list[i1]&#xA;            if w0.mergable(w1):&#xA;                world_list[i0] = w0.merge(w1)&#xA;                if print_merges:&#xA;                    print &quot;merging&quot;,w0&#xA;                    print &quot;with&quot;,w1&#xA;                del world_list[i1]&#xA;            i1 -=1&#xA;        i0 += 1&#xA;def dump_stats(worlds):&#xA;    print 'turn\tON\tBY'&#xA;    p_on = [0.0 for i in range(turn_cap+1)]&#xA;    p_by = [0.0 for i in range(turn_cap+1)]&#xA;    for w in worlds:&#xA;        if world_ended(w):&#xA;            turn = w.ended_on_turn&#xA;            p_on[turn] += w.probability&#xA;            for i in range(turn, turn_cap+1):&#xA;                p_by[i] += w.probability&#xA;    for i in range(1,turn_cap+1):&#xA;        print str(i)+'\t'+str(p_on[i])+'\t'+str(p_by[i])&#xA;def world_ended(w):&#xA;    return None!=w.ended_on_turn&#xA;def main():&#xA;    worlds = [World(num_players)]&#xA;    finished_worlds = []&#xA;    for i in range(turn_cap):&#xA;        if print_turn_progress:&#xA;            print &quot;turn#:&quot;,i+1&#xA;        worlds = flatten([w.run_turn() for w in worlds])&#xA;        collapse_duplicate_worlds(worlds)&#xA;        done, worlds = split_list(worlds,world_ended)&#xA;        finished_worlds.extend(done)&#xA;        if print_num_states:&#xA;            print len(worlds),&quot;unfinished world states&quot;&#xA;            print len(finished_worlds),&quot;finished world states&quot;&#xA;    finished_worlds.extend(worlds)&#xA;    dump_stats(finished_worlds)&#xA;&#xA;if &quot;__main__&quot;==__name__:&#xA;    main()&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1456" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T14:33:00.347" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T14:33:00.347" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="615" CreationDate="2011-06-21T02:39:27.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well there are only 52 C 8 ≈ 750 million different 8-card hands &lt;em&gt;(eight because of the one you pick up at the start of your turn)&lt;/em&gt;.  That shouldn't take too long to brute force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dpaste.com/hold/557122/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quick C# program&lt;/a&gt; that does just that.  It runs in under 10 minutes on my PC &lt;em&gt;(faster, by the way, than the equivalent non-parallel program in C)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to it, there are exactly 68,260 different starting hands that go out immediately.  That means the chances are exactly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;68260/752538150 ≈ 9.07 x 10&lt;sup&gt;-5&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, or about &lt;strong&gt;1 in 11,025.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For six cards (5 + first draw) it gives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11987/20358520 ≈ 5.89 x 10&lt;sup&gt;-4&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, or about &lt;strong&gt;1 in 1,698&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you are the first player, and playing with &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; total people (in a game with a starting-hand of 5), the chances of &lt;em&gt;someone&lt;/em&gt; going out before your next turn are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 - (1 - 11987/20358520)&lt;sup&gt;N-1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three total players:  &lt;strong&gt;1 in 849&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Four total players: &lt;strong&gt;1 in 566&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Five total players:  &lt;strong&gt;1 in 425&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Six total players:  &lt;strong&gt;1 in 340&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2011-06-21T23:01:01.860" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T23:01:01.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4013" CreationDate="2011-06-21T14:58:48.753" Score="11" ViewCount="3066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I should not resign after losing the exchange, or a piece, and probably not even if I lose a Rook.  But how about if I lose a Queen for a Knight?  Would it be expected of a player to keep fighting in such a scenario, or is he expected to give up then and there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be helpful to know the unspoken rules regarding resignation, if they exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T19:04:43.367" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T09:07:31.633" Title="In chess, when is it appropriate to resign?" Tags="|chess|etiquette|end-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2011-06-21T15:07:26.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the circumstances.  Are you in a tournament?  Who is your opponent?  How much time do you have?  What will you learn from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would usually keep fighting if I lost a minor piece just to learn something from fighting a losing position, unless I was in an intense tournament and needed some rest.  If I was down a Queen, I probably wouldn't fight on in such a hopeless situation, but at the lower levels many mistakes can be made on both sides, so it might pay off.  I've seen some crazy games where it did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T15:07:26.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2011-06-21T19:33:26.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably depends on the opponent. A master that is down as little two pawns without compensation would probably resign against another master. He might continue fighting if there were &quot;extenuating&quot; circumstances such as bishops of opposite color or a &quot;blocked&quot; position that makes it hard to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In amateur play, it gets trickier. Here, the presumption is that one side will occasionally lose a piece and still have a chance to come back to win or draw. Then the issue is, how have you done against this opponent in the past? If you've never won a game against him, and losing a piece is &quot;worse than usual,&quot; then resign. If you've had a chance against this person with a rook down, but not a queen, then resign if you lose a whole queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the rule for resigning is to do so when past experience indicates that your cause is &quot;hopeless.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T19:33:26.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-06-21T20:01:48.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a two player game, the time to resign is when it is certain (or almost certain) that the weaker party will lose, given the playing abilities of both parties. That could be a disparity of as little as two pawns in chess (at the master level), or a piece, major or minor, for weaker players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some multiplayer games like Diplomacy, where a single player can &quot;declare civil disorder&quot; without substantially affecting the chances of other players. On the other hand, if you are part of a pre-set &quot;team&quot; (Axis and Allies), it's better to resign, if at all, as a team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-21T20:01:48.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2011-06-22T09:30:17.080" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: This article by Mark Rosewater detailing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;common issues with teaching Magic&lt;/a&gt; and showing how the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; video game mitigates a lot of them, at the same time providing a handy guide to how you should approach teaching. According to MaRo, Duels of the Planeswalkers has taken the place of the core set as the &quot;Casual Intro&quot; tool, and the Core Set is the next move from there. &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.steampowered.com/app/213850/?snr=1_7_15__13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers 2014&lt;/a&gt; is the current release, also available for X-Box, PS3 and iPad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic's R&amp;amp;D have spent the last 5 years modifying the system to make introduction easier, and there are some great articles by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr321&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic designers&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic developers&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to do exactly what you want&lt;/a&gt;. Also, for guidance on how to introduce any game, I can't recommend the &quot;Extra Credits&quot; episode, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXQuannq308&amp;amp;list=PLB9B0CA00461BB187&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sharing Our Medium&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; enough. It's focused video games (which may in fact be where you want to start, see below), but a lot of the general ideas translate really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;How To Play&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know your audience&lt;/strong&gt;: Don't give your tactical mate a Green-Red Raargh deck, and don't give your 12-year old cousin who likes explosions a control deck where they don't hit anything. Better yet, before playing spread a couple of starting hands from the decks out in front of them and see what they gravitate to. You can even adjust this during the game, focusing on the bit they're into. If they like the art, let them root through the deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Simple Decks&lt;/strong&gt;: Obvious, but tricky. What makes a card too complex? What makes a &lt;em&gt;deck&lt;/em&gt; too complex? A simple-sounding mechanic (+1/+1 for every creature in graveyard) can become really complicated with a bit of graveyard manipulation. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tom LaPille's advice here is great&lt;/a&gt;. Flying's pretty obvious, Milling, not so much. Don't introduce multiple win paths until you think they understand the basics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Choose something that opens big&lt;/strong&gt;: For Magic, this translates to which decks you choose to start with. It sounded counter-intuitive when I first read it, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tom LaPille makes a good point&lt;/a&gt; that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the starting deck should be two-colour&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. His reasoning is that it makes it easier to understand the mana system, but there's another good reason: Gold Cards are &lt;em&gt;cooler&lt;/em&gt;. By contrast, monoblue denial decks are the least cool thing ever, especially as an opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add a little bit of Awesome&lt;/strong&gt;: One mega card and a couple of things at the &quot;Serra Angel&quot; level. Some vanilla's and basic spells, a couple of things that are obviously &lt;em&gt;good things to have(TM)&lt;/em&gt;, all built around one major player. Basically that's what a purchasable Intro Deck &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow them to control their deck&lt;/strong&gt;: Obviously, they need a pre-built deck to start with, but give them a sideboard of cards they might like. Include some cards they're not going to click with so they can choose to swap them out. Play in the same colours so they can trade with you for that card that they really love-hated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And then, once they've built their deck? &lt;strong&gt;Let them walk away with it&lt;/strong&gt;. Obviously, you need to make sure you didn't show them any card you wouldn't be prepared to give them, but by giving it to them, you now have an opponent to play with. And who knows, they might return the favour come the next block release.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start Playing Quickly&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;&quot;Cards have costs. Lands allow you to pay the costs. You play spells, attack with creatures, I block, then you get another chance to play spells. Then your creatures heal up, and it's my turn. Your creatures can't attack on the turn they come out, to give me a chance to respond. If you have a card with the type &quot;Instant&quot;, you can play it on my turn at any time. Okay, let's get started.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; - Obviously you'll want to be interacting with them more, but the information above is all you'd need. And yes there are some minor over-simplifications in there. That's &lt;em&gt;deliberate&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't Worry About Them Making Mistakes&lt;/strong&gt;: YOU ARE NOT PLAYING TO WIN AT MAGIC. Repeat it. REPEAT. IT. The game you are playing is &quot;Convert My Friends to a Game&quot;. If losing puts them off it, you need them to win. If winning suspiciously makes them feel patronised, you need to adjust for that. If being mana-screwed puts them off, allow them to mulligan without losing a card till they've got a hand where they can see where they're going with it. And most importantly of all: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;If they make a mistake and play a card which they shouldn't have, allow them to take it back, and then play as if you haven't seen it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't not attack because you know they've got an attacker-killer. Don't not play your creature because they've got a Wrath of God. Surest way to make them not like the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't Be Afraid to Tweak the Rules&lt;/strong&gt;: When playing a game with someone new to it, hidden information actually drops in value for the new player, to the point where it's actually a drawback. Not only do they not know a good move, they're hesitant to ask you about their move, then get annoyed when they realise they made a bad move. Easiest way to solve this? Draw face-up. If you're following the advice I told you to repeat above, you won't be trying to memorise their hand for your own advantage, so there'll still be a trace of hidden information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make Sure They're Having Fun&lt;/strong&gt;: Seems obvious, but don't confuse your own fun with theirs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Post-Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make Them Feel Good&lt;/strong&gt;: Best way to do this is to listen to them. Answer their questions. If they've been mana-screwed over, tell them about your most childish mana-screw strop. If they like a &lt;em&gt;rubbish&lt;/em&gt; card, don't criticise it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another Game?&lt;/strong&gt;: If they've had a good time, offer them another game with the same deck. If they lose badly, swap decks and try again. If they decide that a card sucks, trade it and play again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Different Player Types&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Board Gamers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most board gamers have heard of Magic, in the same way that most footballers have heard of Manchester United, and almost all board gamers want to be introduced to more games. It helps that Magic's quite quick, especially by board game standards. So a lot of the heavy lifting's done for you. Try reading Mark Rosewater's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Timmy, Johnny and Spike&quot;&lt;/a&gt; to work out which type of player they are in other games, and then bring out the deck during the setup phase for Mansions of Madness. As for what to use? Probably one of the latest intro decks or the duel decks. All pre-built decks are designed for intro use (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/172&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New World Order&lt;/a&gt; for how they use rarity to help with this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Video Gamers/Casual&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, the best thing to buy for a &quot;true casual&quot; player would be the latest version of the &lt;strong&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/strong&gt; game. It was clearly designed as an intro system, and it's got a good subset of the core rules, and because they're computer determined, (including the default decks), it's less intimidating in terms of making a mistake. It also avoids some of the disadvantages of competitive play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can play on your own to show them how it works. Even better, as you play, they can start &quot;back-seat playing&quot;, and as they get more into it, you can then hand over the controller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The AI is significantly less frustrating to lose to. It isn't judging you, it doesn't suggest better plays you could have made, and you don't care about its opinion of you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It allows them to play against a consistent opponent in the AI (and at the early levels, a deliberately beatable opponent).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When they lose against the AI, they can just jump straight back in, no shuffling, no post-game argument.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rules don't change on them. You don't forget the new changes to the Legend rule, or that Damage is no longer on the stack. Their mistakes are their own. Just make sure they always hit to stop the &quot;instant clock&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers 2014 just came out, available on PC &amp;amp; Mac, and Wizards has clearly realized they're onto something with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to get them into a Free-to-Play TCCG that isn't Magic. My wife is now a chronic Solforge addict (70 hours and climbing). She wants better deck control and the ability to takeback after a play mistake? If only I had this deck of a very similar game right here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr321&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Making Magic&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Latest Developments&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXQuannq308&amp;amp;list=PLB9B0CA00461BB187&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Extra Credits&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T07:47:27.783" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T07:47:27.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-22T15:58:00.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/51/ricochet-robots&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ricochet Robot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is very cool and funny, if you like puzzles. It's &quot;the game with which you shout numbers in your garden&quot;. You must find the shortest way from a place to another, using very dumb straight-going robots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer strategy games, you have &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/60/vinci&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vinci&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which is the first version of &lt;strong&gt;Small World&lt;/strong&gt; and has a single player version which is very good! I tried it, the player doesn't win every time! The idea is: you play with &quot;automatic players&quot;, that can be compared to AI in video games. They obey very basic rules and the player doesn't decide for them what to play, it's impressive how it works well! Maybe the game can't be found nowadays, though, but you can still get a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40692/small-world&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Small World&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and play with this special single player rule from its ancestor, the two games are exactly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's very easy to play alone at &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1234/once-upon-a-time&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Once Upon a Time&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, in which you must create a fairy tale. If you do, use a microphone to keep a track of your masterpiece! Maybe Disney will make a movie out of it someday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other mentionned, cooperative games are good as well! My preference goes to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, playable in less than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:23:17.407" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:23:17.407" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-22T15:58:00.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4037" CreationDate="2011-06-22T16:18:17.880" Score="11" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to openings such as d6 (Pirc Defense) or e6 (French Defense) in answer to say, e4. These openings often make it more difficult to develop pieces than say, c5 or e5. In particular, the black squared bishop needs to be fianchettoed after d5, and the white squared bishop is locked behind a wall of pawns after e6 (and d5). For these reasons, White (almost) never begins a game with d3 or e3. A certain chess master had the opinion that &quot;Cramped positions carry within them the germ of defeat,&quot; and would play c5 as black, whenever possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do such openings (French and Pirc defenses) represent a desire for a &quot;closed&quot; game style of play? Could black be trying to get white to overreach? Or is it that these are among the better choices available to black, given that s/he moves second, with the other openings offering problems of their own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-22T19:32:54.173" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T11:07:15.067" Title="In Chess, Why Does Black Sometimes Play &quot;Cramped&quot; Openings?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2011-06-22T17:52:31.890" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Cramped&quot; openings are generally used by players who are good at piling up strong defenses for the opening and who hope to encourage overextension on White's part, in order to take advantage of it; or to fend it off till it has passed, and then muster an attack of their own.  After 1. e4 e6 2. d4 d5, which is the common continuation of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_Defence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;French Defense&lt;/a&gt;, Black main drawback is, as you mentioned, his Queen Bishop, which cannot usually enter the play until the endgame.  However, after ... c5, attacking the newborn White Pawn chain, Black's Pawn center may become threatening, and can grow into a major defensive asset, either forcing White to give up the center, or tying down White's pieces to defense of the center.  The point is that Black has many attacking chances as well, and while his first moves appear conservative, even &quot;cramping&quot;, he is merely being more patient than in the alternative openings.  He uses more moves to get where he wants, but the extra moves can reap dividends when White comes to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a closed opening which is handled by a patient player holds much potential defensive advantage, and it is often played with a definite view toward strong reactions after White has burnt himself out trying to effect a successful attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, not all closed openings are effective.  More than one kind of cramped opening exists: the kind that looks cramped, but is in reality compact and smooth &lt;em&gt;(closed)&lt;/em&gt;, and then there is also the kind that is really unworkable and impossible to manipulate &lt;em&gt;(cramped)&lt;/em&gt;.  The latter turn into big mistakes, even worse than they look, especially when played by one who is more used to aggressive technique than the patient biding of time.  It wouldn't be recommended to play these unless you are the patient type, or unless you can force yourself to play quietly and defensibly until it's time to strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited later&lt;/strong&gt; to say that there are closed openings for White, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="1444" LastEditDate="2011-06-25T13:31:06.877" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T13:31:06.877" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2011-06-22T21:24:29.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/242/junta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Junta&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link lists it as only taking seven players, but there are unofficial rules that raise it up to nine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most notable for being a game that gets better the more players it has (and gets noticably &lt;em&gt;worse&lt;/em&gt; the fewer - I wouldn't play with less than five). Most game steps are either simultaneous or involve negotiation, so it's very hard to be left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elevator pitch: Players are leaders of various factions in a banana republic, and must negotiate/intimidate/assassinate each other to get the most foreign aid into their personal Swiss bank account. (It's particularly amusing because it has quite elaborate rules, most of which are merely means to the end of getting the money.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25821/the-werewolves-of-millers-hollow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Werewolves of Miller's Hollow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one &lt;em&gt;starts&lt;/em&gt; at eight players and ramps up. Again, everyone is involved in all steps. Advantage is that it ramps straight up to 20 players. Disadvantage is one player usually has to referee.&#xA;Elevator pitch: A village tries to out the werewolves in their midst. Each player is a villager, but some are secretly werewolves (and must try to avoid being lynched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-22T21:24:29.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-22T22:44:57.073" Score="5" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many units do you use to attack a dead zone territory? Is there a formula or computation that can be used to discover the optimal number of units to attack with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the Eastern European front with Russia holding Karelia and Germany holding Eastern Europe, with the Ukraine as a dead zone (3 IPC). Presume Karelia has sufficient infantry support to resist a German invasion and vice versa, and that the only sort of attacking that's going on at this stage in the game on this front is the tit for tat taking and retaking of Ukraine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, say it is Russia's turn and that they have, say, 25 infantry in Karelia and 2 fighters and Germany has one infantry in Ukraine. How many troops does Russia attack with given two fighters? What if Germany has two infantry in Ukraine? What if Russia has only one fighter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if there is a general formula for ascertaining the optimal attack ratio. Using a calculator like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; seems a necessity, but what sort of likelihood of winning the attack do you aim for? 60%? 80%? Higher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-23T00:18:49.767" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T11:34:47.820" Title="How many units do you use to attack a dead zone in Axis and Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2011-06-23T00:43:06.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the combat simulator, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dskelly.com/misc/aa/aasim.html&lt;/a&gt; and running various calculations, I come up with the following: if there are x defending infantry and you attack with x fighters and x+1 infantry, your chances of winning &quot;round&quot; to 100%. With one fighter and one infantry against one infantry, your chances of winning are about 94%, and with one fighter and three infantry against two infantry, your chances of winning are also 94%. With two fighters and two infantry against two infantry, it's 98%. Basically, with the heavy firepower, you don't need much extra infantry, just enough to guard against &quot;accidents.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T00:43:06.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="573" CreationDate="2011-06-23T01:21:15.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had some great luck with some of my own personal old games in my collection by reaching out to a reputable and good local (and online) boardgame store. In my personal experience I sold a bunch of games to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nobleknight.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Noble Knight Games&lt;/a&gt; in no small part because they support many of my favorite gaming related podcasts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In dealing with an online store that buys &amp;amp; sells older games (in my case I sold them both boardgames and role playing game materials) you will need to provide them with detailed information about the games you have, their condition, completeness etc and they will then make you an offer. In most cases they, like many used dealers online and offline will offer you a bit more in store credit than they would pay in cash. You probably also won't get exactly what you might see individual games selling for on EBay - but then neither will you have to incur the Ebay fees, payment fees, shipping costs and more or the hassle of listing many items and relisting the many which likely won't sell the first time around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some local game stores may buy and sell used games - but generally to do so successfully requires a store with an active online presence which ensures that they turnover their inventory reliably and often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case I would suggest that you have your relative box up all of the games and ship them to you - you can then inspect them for completeness and take more detailed photographs. Personally I would also suggest keeping a few if they are games you actually play (or might actually play). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T01:21:15.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2011-06-23T01:34:15.833" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once, in a serious tournament, in the very last round won a game when I was down a whole queen (at one point in the game - by the time I won I had recovered the queen and much more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had also before I eventually turned the position around to be clearly winning offered my opponent a draw, a draw which would have advanced him to a statewide individual tournament, but assuming he had a won game (which technically he did but over the board he failed to see how to win - in part because he ran into time trouble) he declined my draw offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is that even in a serious tournament situation I had not considered resigning in this specific position because the game was still highly dynamic and because since we had not yet met the time control conditions I still had a very real possibility of winning on time even if I was down in materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what more general advice can I offer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - do not resign if the position is still highly dynamic - i.e. even if you are down in pieces you still have more than enough pieces to both technically win the game and have the ability to create counterthreats your opponent will need to deal with before they can win the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - DO resign if you see a clear path to defeat - i.e. if you see a forced mate or a clear consolidation of the game such that your opponent has an overwhelming advantage. This is especially true if you have a lot of respect for your opponent's game - but even in a casual play you should probably resign when it is clear that you have lost. (i.e. when you could only get back into the game seriously if your opponent made major blunders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game I cited above I won because due to persistant threats by my Knight and other pieces my opponent moved his king into a position where I was able to then fork his king and queen - and then proceed to capture many more pieces and come back from a seemingly insurmountable piece deficit to a clear and decisive victory. But I was able to do this because the position was highly fluid with lots of tactical options open to me even with the loss of my queen. It was a complex position, with both kings fairly advanced and I still had plenty of my own pieces and pawns to threaten my opponent with. Furthermore he was in significant time pressure due to a looming time control which we had not yet met - while I had more time on my clock (but still played quickly to keep the pressure on him) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general rule - resign when you can no longer learn from the game in casual play and in tournament play resign when you no longer have a realistic ability to make serious threats or eek out a draw (and don't forget to look at the clock's impact on play in tournaments)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T01:34:15.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3760" CreationDate="2011-06-23T05:34:45.423" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no hard and fast rules about Modern Art, as so much depends on the mentality of the fellow players.  However, general rules of psychology, bidding games, and trading can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start with consider these things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The threat of being out-bid is more powerful than outbidding someone.  This means you always want to have more money than your fellow players.  Too often newer players will buy up paintings that will score early, then allow the remaining players to get the same artists at lower prices (since they're out of money).  Try playing with losing every auction first round, to see how it feels to be really rich.  With this strategy, you'll want to end round one as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Don't overpay.  It sounds simple, but there's an opportunity cost (to buy something else) whenever you buy something.  Here's some math to estimate prices.  In an optimal game, every round consists of 3 artists only in proportions of 5/4/4 (=13) with an aggregate 'price' of 5*30 + 4*20 + 4*10 = 270 / 13 = ~20.  This means all things equal, don't pay more than 20 for a card, first round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Keep track of # of remaining artist cards!  This is a game of psychology.  It's important to know what your opponents are likely to have in the their hand.  Likewise, keep track of your opponent's play styles over rounds or multiple games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Tips on auctions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Free Auctions, psychology tells us that players tend to overbid.  This is due to 'loss aversion' and the mistaken belief that you're denying an opponent something he wants.  Try to bid up your opponent, if you have the guts, to make him outbid you and pay too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In one-round auctions, you have the advantage as the auctioneer if and only if you have a big pile of cash (see #1 above).  If the last player bids too high, let him have it, else take it for yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In secret auctions, players are trying to read each other, and tend to overbid because they think that adding 'just a few extra' will win them the auction.  Try lowballing these auctions just in case someone gives up with nothing (bidding nothing is a terrible idea)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fixed price auction is your best opportunity to play strategically.  Only play one of these when you know an opponent will overpay.  No one will let you buy it too low, so never offer these under-value (unless you have ALL the money).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dual auctions are wonderful ways to grab art.  Try using it only late in the round with the one-round auction.  If you have a pile of cash no doubt this is an opportunity to get a lot cheap, or get a pile of money for next round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific bullet points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As for which artist to play, you want to 'team-up' with a specific other player.  A win for you and one other player means a relative gain against two other players (assuming a 4 player game).  Concurrently, this means that you play cards already in play and hoard artists that haven't been seen yet (they will later).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The artist tie-break is game balance, but doesn't quite fully balance things.  The artists with the more cards are therefore slightly more valuable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play most auctions to well-below value, and play the one-rounds to win as auctioneer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doubles are more powerful later in the rounds, but only if you have a cash advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 rounds * 3 winners per round / 5 artists = 2.4   So, each artist, on average places 2-3 times a game.  That's quite significant.  Keep track of the artist and place: if the 12-card artist places first, forget about him scoring the rest of the game, but if the 16-card artist places 2nd or 3rd, that's a good bet to try to win in subsequent rounds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T05:34:45.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4022" CreationDate="2011-06-23T11:34:47.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm attacking a dead zone I won't use tanks. So &lt;strong&gt;I determine the attacking force structure by determining the number of aircraft available for the attack and then adding infantry&lt;/strong&gt; until my gut (or a battle calculator) tells me I'll have enough to occupy the territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, I'll find that absent these dead zone attacks my planes wouldn't have anything else to do anyway, so more often than you might expect dead zone attacks utilize overwhelming airpower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against 1 infantry with 2 fighters:&lt;/strong&gt; I'd probably send two infantry because this almost guarantees I can capture the territory (with one fighter I'd still only send 2 inf--stranding 3 inf in a dead zone is too many and the odds of winning are still decent). If I'm stretched thin I might only send one, but I'd prefer occupying the territory with two infantry than not taking it at all. If you take it you get 3 IPCs that turn and you make the other side answer the more difficult question of how many inf they send to re-take the territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against 2 infantry:&lt;/strong&gt; the problem is more difficult. Typically in this scenario I'm almost resigned to not capturing it with high probability and only want to make sure I take enough infantry that there's no chance of taking fighter damage. So if I can afford it I'll attack with 3 inf, knowing that I'm going to retreat before any combat round when I don't have at least as many infantry has he does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As for specific probabilities&lt;/strong&gt; I target in my attack structure, that's all game dependent and balanced against the opportunity cost of those units elsewhere on the board. My key metric in planning dead zone attacks is minimizing downside (i.e. the risk of losing fighters and/or stranding more than 2 inf in the dead zone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T11:34:47.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4012" CreationDate="2011-06-23T15:44:37.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually resign when every move starts to feel hopeless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are late enough in the game you can sometimes carry on to attempt a stalemate.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T15:44:37.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2943" CreationDate="2011-06-23T15:57:24.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In board games played online that have score values resigning may be considered rude. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you forfeit in Scrabble Online, you prevent your opponent from scoring, thus ending their opportunity for a high score value (which is tracked and viewable by opponents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1466" LastActivityDate="2011-06-23T15:57:24.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4031" CreationDate="2011-06-23T16:08:04.663" Score="10" ViewCount="1777" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of one; but I don't know where to look to make sure.  This is something I've been wondering for a long time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T21:22:16.630" Title="Are there names for checkers openings?" Tags="|openings|checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4030" CreationDate="2011-06-23T20:33:26.223" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bobnewell.net/checkers/principles.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; that talks about an example, The Switcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/openingnames.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great link&lt;/a&gt; that lists them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T21:22:16.630" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T21:22:16.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2011-06-24T13:56:27.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, I like to trade when I have a lot of money. I don't like to trade when I don't have money (and my opponents do). Unless you're trading for Baltic and Mediterranean, it's not a question of who has the better properties, but who can develop them fastest. (And I once lost a game landing on a hotel on Baltic, even though I had the maroon and green groups.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason, I don't like to give money in trade. Much more inclined to accept money as the &quot;difference&quot; in a trade of say, the dark blues for the maroons. But once I traded the greens for the maroons &quot;straight up&quot; and won, because I had over $1,000, and my main opponent (in a three way game) was almost broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-24T14:02:19.883" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T14:02:19.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2011-06-24T17:51:43.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually do have a couple of quick methods that I use when offered a trade, and the one I use depends on the stage of the game we're in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Early game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first few trips around the board. No one has a monopoly, most color groups have 1-3 properties available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the properties contribute toward possible monopolies equally? (If she has an orange, I'm not trading her an orange unless I get a second property in another color in return. This applies to railroads as well: I'm not giving someone a second railroad for a property in a &quot;new&quot; color, for the most part.) &lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: even if they do, make sure you keep an eye on the third property in each group. This can be especially important if additional opponents are prone to completing monopolies through trade, even if it hurts them to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that's not applicable, are the properties roughly of equal total value? (I'm not giving him Boardwalk for Indiana Avenue.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they're not roughly equal, can money be added to make them so? (A rough estimate is all you need; early in the game, it's hard to tell which properties are key.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's &quot;no&quot; to all three, then I decline the trade. Otherwise, it might be worth it ... getting a chance at an early monopoly or a set of railroads can make a big difference early on. $200 isn't nearly as big of a deal when you have $4000 in assets as it is when you have $1900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mid to late game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good number of properties have been purchased; one or more opponents may have monopolies, both utilities, or all four railroads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1368/monopoly-strategy-in-trading/4032#4032&quot; title=&quot;Tom Au&amp;#39;s answer&quot;&gt;Does everyone but me have a monopoly?&lt;/a&gt; Then &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, I make the trade. You simply can't build up enough cash without a monopoly in the late stages.  Conversely, if everyone but my opponent has a monopoly, then &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, you don't get one. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are several possible monopolies left, and we're setting each other up, are the monopolies roughly equivalent? If not, then &lt;strong&gt;no trade&lt;/strong&gt;. (Remember, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/46/which-property-group-colour-gives-the-best-roi-undeveloped-or-fully-developed/79#79&quot;&gt;light blue, orange, and dark blue&lt;/a&gt; are your targets. Don't give one unless you get one. Greens aren't really an asset unless you can afford to build them up immediately and still have an emergency fund. While they're a good initial value, Baltic/Mediterranean start to lose value once your opponents can pick up 2x to 8x that rent in one roll.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's not going to be for mutual monopolies, am I helping out my opponent too much? Keep in mind that you have no control over your opponents' trades: picking up Boardwalk for New York Avenue seems like a decent late-game trade, but you may not get Park Place out of the person who has it, and if someone else passes the last orange to your trading partner, suddenly they have a new monopoly and you've got nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How successful is that? It's hard to say, given the luck involved and the difference in opponents you'll face. Even with that handy ROI table next to you, you still can't be sure you'll win more games in the long run, and it's always possible that developing a reputation as a shrewd trader will hurt you within your group: people may actually trade with you less often, even if your trades help your opponents as well, just because you're good at it! But that philosophy seems to work for me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T17:51:43.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-24T21:35:57.490" Score="18" ViewCount="2977" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I are a bit late to getting Dominion but so far are really enjoying it - we have the base set and just bought Intrigue. We don't have a lot of time to play (and so far at least have only played Dominion two player against ourselves) so I'm looking for some general &quot;meta game&quot; advice to maximize our fun when we do get a chance to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment the one technique which we have adopted that is fun for us is to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;we use the randomizer cards for the set we are playing with (since we just got Intrigue we still want to play with just it a bunch of times before we mix the sets) and deal out 10 cards to play with&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;we then reserve the remaining 15 cards and when we finish the first game, instead of reshuffling the randomizers we simply deal off the next 10 cards. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This insures that when we play two games back to back we experience two completely different games and play with 20 different cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other similar meta-game techniques people have to add to the enjoyment of playing Dominion - especially techniques for players who don't get a lot of time to play boardgames? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't have any of the Promo cards though I've thought about trying to get the Black Market card as playing with that would similarly allow us to experience a greater variety of card interactions (albiet with introducing more randomness to the game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm open to making this a wiki if people think that is the best format for this type of question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T04:28:36.903" LastActivityDate="2019-01-25T18:06:15.593" Title="General advice for maximizing fun playing multiple games of Dominion" Tags="|house-rules|dominion|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2011-06-24T21:47:33.640" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've used a mixture of user-selected and randomly selected cards. One scheme that's worked: each player gets to pick one card they &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; want in the next game (this is done first), and then two cards they &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; want in the deck. The remaining 2 cards are selected at random. (This was for a 4-player game; in a two-player game I'd experiment with 1 or 2 banned cards and 2 or 3 selected cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this method is to give each player the ability to tailor the deck to include a couple of kingdom cards they think might be synergistic, enabling them to try out a new strategy. Also, as the latter players select their cards they're able to try out counters and other means of blocking what they think the other player's strategies might be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you become experienced and comfortable with the cards and the potential interactions this method turns into a meta-game that may detract from the fun, but early on, while you're still learning the ins-and-outs of a new set of cards, it's an easy way to design decks to test out specific theories--and the random cards that are still in each game provide a mechanism for random learning and discovery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-06-24T21:47:33.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2824" CreationDate="2011-06-25T05:36:16.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually LittleBobbyTables, Klak's artifact has 5 hitpoints, so attacking it with Tied of Iron may well &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be enough to destroy it, in which case I reckon it would knock it to another tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, my kids were playing and this ended up being the exact situation. The Ranger had just reached 0 hps leaving only the Fighter and Klak's artifact- it needed to be destroyed this very turn or else it'd come back to the Ranger's turn and they'd lose (no more Surges left). Problem: the artifact had 3 hps left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Fighter hit it with Tide of Iron. Result: 1 point damage and knockback to an adjacent tile. He chose a tile that had a Dart Trap on it. In my role as DM, I decided that anything entering that tile would trigger the trap (hell, I figure if you, as a character, threw something big at a trap you'd set it off). The trap hit, did 2 more points of damage: artifact shatters into a zillion pieces, and the Fighter drags the Ranger back to the surface to be healed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, hey, some people may say &quot;Nah, Monsters don't set off traps&quot; or quibble; but to me, it was a brilliant idea to blow it back into that space. A heroic idea. An mad adventuring idea. And so the story of that (which to me is the whole point of games) won out- a last second win due to a tricky move...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1472" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T05:36:16.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2011-06-25T10:52:10.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;strong&gt;the French defense and the Pirc are not cramped! They are very deep openings&lt;/strong&gt; that will test your &lt;strong&gt;positional skills&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a lot more to the French defense than the Queen's Bishop &quot;weakness&quot;. The position is closed enough not to need this particular piece so early. Every opening has a kind of weakness or imbalance, it doesn't make them cramped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In high rated games, these openings (the french in particular) is not played because it leads most of the time to drawn games but it can be a very dangerous weapon if you know it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e5 and c5 openings in answer to 1.e4 are &lt;strong&gt;more tactical&lt;/strong&gt; and aggressive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it's a psychological strategy to play a slow opening against a player very good at tactics and skirmishes. Some of them will lose patience and make a positional mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you're confusing a cramped position and a closed opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Closed openings are slower and require very deep knowledge of the different variations and good &lt;strong&gt;positional&lt;/strong&gt; skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1.e4 e5/c5 are more 'aggressive' and requiring very good &lt;strong&gt;tactical&lt;/strong&gt; skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user545" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T10:52:10.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2011-06-25T13:50:21.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group usually uses a randomizer app. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we are trying to make sure that we see every card over a couple of play sessions, we select the new kingdom cards by replacing cards that were bought in the previous game while leaving in cards that were not bought. This gets some variety into the set while encouraging us to find ways to use seemingly less useful cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T13:50:21.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2011-06-25T16:58:09.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Germany, my preference is to invade (UK's) soft African &quot;underbelly&quot; first, then take on Russia second. But if Russia gets aggressive and possibly overextends herself with a first turn attack, I'd go after Russia first. (I would not play allowing a Russian first turn attack unless I got some compensation under house rules.) &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3626/can-we-find-a-middle-ground-on-the-russia-first-turn-attack-rule-in-allies-and-ax&quot;&gt;Can We Find a Middle Ground on the Russia First Turn Attack Rule In Allies and Axis?&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3847/in-axis-and-allies-could-a-house-rule-upgrading-the-german-navy-finally-balance&quot;&gt;In Axis and Allies, could a house rule upgrading the German navy finally &amp;quot;balance&amp;quot; the 1942 game?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm &quot;renting&quot; Africa for an attack on Russia, but my real object is the latter. Russia has 24 of the 27 IPCs needed for an economic victory. Sacrifice my two African IPCs, and the bar rises to 29. Japan has probably captured China and Sinkiang for 4 IPCs, which, added to Russia, is 28. ANYTHING else gives us victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the UK, it would largely depend on what my ALLIES wanted to do. In descending order of preference, the strategies are 1) a North Atlantic &quot;shuck, shuck,&quot; (withe U.S.) 2) a rescue Africa strategy, if Germany concentrates on building naval power instead of occupying Africa and 3) a Far Eastern strategy beginning with a &quot;Kwabang&quot; attack, but only if Russia and the U.S will back me up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Japan, I really want to head west. In the Pacific, I may make a spoiling attack against Pearl Harbor, but that's all. My preference is to fight the UK (India, Australia, and later Africa). But if Russia gets aggressive, or Germany prefers this, I will go against Russia (reluctantly), instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the US, again my preferences would depend my allies, and my choices (in order of preference) are similar to the U.K.'s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Russia, I prefer a Germany-first defensive strategy. If allowed, my preference is for a live and let live policy vis-a-vis Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-06-25T16:58:09.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4045" CreationDate="2011-06-26T08:01:35.020" Score="46" ViewCount="121822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot (of good things) about this game and I'm interested in exploring it; however, I'm slightly worried about the initial cash investment involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;About how much would it cost to get started with Magic: The Gathering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T10:25:40.770" Title="How much would it cost to get started with Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="16" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-26T08:25:38.173" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not the inital investment, it's the &lt;strong&gt;never-ending&lt;/strong&gt; investment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two options I'm offering you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Forget about that, try something else like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/53953/thunderstone&quot;&gt;Thunderstone&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/66587/gosu&quot;&gt;Gosu&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; was made by former &lt;em&gt;Magicians&lt;/em&gt; who realized how many hundreds of bucks they spent on buying cards. These games are deck building games. They work like Magic, but you only pay them once.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buy &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Magic: the Gathering&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It's only a few &lt;em&gt;whatever your local currency is&lt;/em&gt;. You can buy this year's edition, make a friend of yours buy one too and play against each-other, sometimes. But if you want to go and battle against old players, you must know that: you're not rich enough. Because once you are in the Magic circle, you can only get out by not playing at all. Don't imagine you can buy some cards and play. You must keep on getting new cards!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My point is: if your first question about Magic is, &quot;How much will it cost?&quot;, you probably don't want this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get me wrong, it's a great game! Just a very expensive one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T20:32:02.973" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T20:32:02.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-26T09:00:27.830" Score="21" ViewCount="3092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten really into Settlers of Catan recently.  There are a few people I regularly play with and these games are really fun / intense; however, when any of this group splits off to play &quot;friendly games&quot; with &quot;casual players&quot;, the games are really one-sided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Playing easy&quot; on purpose isn't fun for anyone involved; is there a more creative way to introduce a handicap?  &lt;strong&gt;I would prefer something subtle, in which the casual players aren't even aware that a handicap is involved&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example would be &quot;don't buy any development cards&quot; (development cards are the bread and butter of my current play style), but I'm hoping to get some (more creative / more varied) suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] As a disclaimer, I am by no means calling myself &quot;a good player&quot;!  I'm just pointing out that I've played a bit more (30+ games?) than most casual players that have only touched the game a few times, and that as a result, I've gotten used to certain strategic ideas that casual players haven't been exposed to yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastEditorUserId="1421" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T22:46:09.080" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:49:53.193" Title="Creative handicaps in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-26T09:47:21.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a rule for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of a player's turn, he or she can put a card from his/her hand in front of another player. This person won't be allowed to trade this resource (either way). The cards are removed at the end of a turn as welland thrown away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule will make people &quot;attack&quot; the strong ones. If you're not strong, it may be simplier for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just made up this rule, I didn't test it. ut if you do, your feedback will be apreciated! :o)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T09:47:21.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-26T09:49:09.980" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting started:&#xA;$20 or so for a pair of starter decks. You need one starter per person, and an opponent, so to have a playable start for home use, you need two starters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that starter decks are usually not terribly competitive with collected decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent collection will be around $50-$500 worth of boosters (depending on your values for decent and which editions you'll get, and your luck). You can probably get 2 or 3 decent decks out of an investment of $300+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can save a little by buying people's old cards; often they won't be pretty, but they're playable. That said...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, cards are constantly being changed as to tournament legality. Many people only play current tournament rules, even for friendly games, so you might have some older cards that are no longer tourney legal, and have upset opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play ONLY with your own collection, and only with friends, you can save a bunch by getting unlimited editions of some of the older stuff that is no longer tourney legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play tourney, expect to spend $30 to $100 per month on assorted stuff... Keeping in mind a common tourney format is a &quot;sealed deck tourney&quot;... you buy a new-in-box sealed deck, and a booster or two (number by tournament rules), then make do with whatever you have there in just those 2-3 items. Typically, it's less expensive to buy them in the tourney ($3-$5 less than MSRP), but still, tournament play can rapidly build a huge collection and spend a LOT of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2014-05-31T17:21:19.690" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T17:21:19.690" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2011-06-26T10:17:06.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the disapproval precision players receive at club level, many top pairs in north America, Europe and Asia play modified precision systems or multi-way club systems. In bermuda bawl 2009, 2 out of 6 American pairs played precision, and 10 out of 18 European pairs chose either precision or multi-way club systems. They must have seen some merits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a good place to lecture on precision, so you can search the web for hints. Also you can find many good points in previous posts. I just want to add a point that is missing in that post, and i think it is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In strong 2C systems, all 23+ hands will be opened 2C. This is a poor design. Why should we assign a bid to hands that occure once in 200 deals? In fact 2C in natural systems is a bid that you rarely use, so it is a waste. Let's look at natural systems and precision basic structure designation with some statistics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0-12: frequency: %73.2 --- either pass or open with a pre-empt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13-22: frequency:%26.3 --- one of a suit is opened. but still 1C/D openings does not promise any length and next rebid for clarification is required. Also, the exact point range should be clarified with a second or third bid (weak: 12-15,  intermediate:16-18, strong:19-22). Responder still is in the dark after the opening bid. The mandatory second clarifying bid by opener makes these openings vulnerable to overcalls and usually awkward guesswork and overbiding starts at intermediate level and sometimes experts miss too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23+: frequency: 0.5% --- do you remember the last time you opened 2C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precision:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0-11: frequency: %56.2 --- either pass or open with a pre-empt&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11-15: frequency: %34.0 ---a limited bid will be used. There is no need for a second or third bid to clarify the exact point range. Partner knows more at this stage compared to a natural system. Less opportunity for overbiding. overcalls are not disturbing at all (they will only help us), but sometimes distributional games can't be found at intermediate level who play just on HCP count. This is the safe and pleasant part of the system&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16+: frequency: %9.8 --- 1C opener takes the control of the auction. opener does not show his hand to opponents and just asks. The drawback is sometimes you play the contract wrong sided compared to a natural system (but this problem is solved by top players). It is sensitive to pre-emption and a pair must employ methods to overcome dificulties, might be hard for intermediate players. (But there are times that the deal is a misfit and those anti-precision players who jump carelessly in the auction and go down, give us a top board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For years, and all around the world, experts have worked hard on natural systems and made them playable by adding gadgets and giving exact meanings to many sequences. But still they could not overcome the inherent flaw in the main structure, specially meaningless 1C/1D openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1473" LastEditorUserId="1473" LastEditDate="2011-06-26T11:05:43.907" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T11:05:43.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4048" CreationDate="2011-06-26T14:09:46.557" Score="20" ViewCount="9129" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Monopoly players would want to buy at least ONE property in a color group, for defensive purposes.  Money is usually tight though, so it often pays to &quot;cut corners&quot; somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this &quot;corner&quot; cutting come in declining to buy a SECOND property in a group in which you are not interested?  (That is, as opposed to buy it now and mortgage it later for half price.) Does it matter whether or not &quot;house rules&quot; say that it will be put up for auction?  Does it matter whether or not someone else also owns a property in the group, so it is effectively a &quot;third?&quot; And is this as true for railroads as for &quot;color&quot; monopolies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2018-04-11T02:32:16.033" LastActivityDate="2018-04-11T02:32:16.033" Title="In Monopoly, Does It Make Sense NOT to Buy a &quot;Second&quot; Property in a Color Group?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4047" CreationDate="2011-06-26T15:20:57.137" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Kaz Darzinskis' &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060961279&quot;&gt;Winning Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Buy from the bank any property that&#xA;  will give you ownership of two&#xA;  properties in any monopoly group,&#xA;  unless you already own a killer&#xA;  monopoly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I believe he refers to a killer monopoly as being the New York group and up, though it's been a long time since I read the book and could be wrong.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory here is that if you do not already have a strong monopoly, angling to get a weak monopoly to bootstrap your future endeavors is not a waste of time.  If an opponent gets the third of the color group, then you have a much stronger trade platform with that opponent rather than if the power is dispersed amongst three players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Darzinskis frames purchasing the third of a group as having &quot;veto power&quot; over trades in that color group, and gives the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Buy the third remaining property of a&#xA;  color group owned by two different&#xA;  opponents when those same opponents&#xA;  share complete ownership of one other&#xA;  killer monopoly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can devalue the trade pieces between the two players who could come together and form a strong monopoly, it's obviously in your best interest to prevent that from happening.  If not, then it's safe to let it go up for auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Railroads and Utilities are special cases, as they cannot be developed and so the upsides for monopolizing them are lessened.  As such, having only one of a group will, on average, return more than the face value over the game, so there should not be a reason to not buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="1299" LastEditDate="2011-06-26T19:40:07.580" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T19:40:07.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-26T16:41:09.693" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a recovering M:TG addict, so I haven't played in a while. But assuming the game hasn't changed too much, you might want to look into actually stopping into a card shop and building your own &quot;common&quot; deck for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rarity on M:TG cards is a large part of the price. Super-rare combo cards with the gold stamp are sold out of glass cases for high $$$, but usually next to them is a big box marked &quot;commons,&quot; which I've seen go for as little as $.03 a card. Stick to one color and you'll only need &quot;basic&quot; lands, which I've actually seen &lt;em&gt;given&lt;/em&gt; away at certain card shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common &quot;common&quot; builds when I played were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White or Green &quot;Weenie&quot; - Focus on cheap creatures that you can play for 1-2 mana at max and try to overwhelm the opponent early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red Burn - Use a mix of cheap red creatures and direct damage to win as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suicide Black - At the time I was playing, there were several commons that hurt both you and the opponent, but hurt them more, which again lead to decks that worked to win as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green &quot;Stompy&quot; - Focus on surviving long enough to get huge but expensive creatures out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mono-Blue Control - A handful of damage-dealing cards mixed in with a ton of counterspells, ala Randy Beuhler's &quot;Draw, Go&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/rb63&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/rb63&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was the deck that made me love magic, as he took it to 12th place at World's despite the fact that at the time you could build the whole deck for under $15. And it's fun to make your friends cuss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, assuming you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; build entirely out of the 3-cents-a-common box, you'll spend about $1.80, $2.25 if you include a basic sideboard as well. Following one of those builds, even loosely, should give you a playable-enough deck. But even better, you'll find they're very easily upgrade-able when the opportunity to buy better cards comes up, and often it only takes swapping out a few cards to change the face of the deck entirely. My much-beloved blue control deck was basically just a &quot;base&quot; that I could swap differing sets of spells into to make 5-6 different decks, which saved on card purchases quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: You can get started for &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; cheap, but the more you spend, the better your deck will get. Good luck and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1309" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T16:41:09.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="346" CreationDate="2011-06-26T18:12:29.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not defending you quest and kingdom zones enough.  There is no reason for him to attack your battlefield if your defenses are weak in the other two zones.  It's better for him to attack those and win than fight your battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T18:12:29.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2011-06-26T18:17:39.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's always too expensive.  Been playing a&amp;amp;a for 20 years and have never paid to invade a neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T18:17:39.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-26T18:28:40.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard put a price on getting started, as many have said, it's never ending; even for those who think they have self control.  It is however possible one of the best games of all times.  If you want a similar feel, but something with more of a definite price and future expense amount, I would recommend looking at Fantasy Flights line of &quot;living card games.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current lines which are of similar theme to magic are warhammer invasion, a game of thrones, and lord of the rings.  Pretty much the best part is you don't get in the trap of magic where you can't help but want to buy the high $ cards.  With living card games, if you buy the expansion you get all the cards in the set rather than having to mine booster packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T18:28:40.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-26T18:38:58.593" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best handicapping is to require the more skilled player to have no 6's nor 8's in their chosen starting spots; a step harder is to also block the 5's and 9's, but that often results in not being able to find a spot to place starting bits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commensurately, the biggest problem for casual players is NOT picking at least one common number spot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional option is to restrict the number of cities and settlements for the experienced players. Reducing one each still makes the 10 point win possible ((3x2)+4), but only just.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T08:26:10.073" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T08:26:10.073" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3808" CreationDate="2011-06-26T19:25:18.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also boardgamearena.com and play-Agricola.com which are good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T19:25:18.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-26T19:25:40.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not recommend handicapping anyone.  The best way the casual gamers will learn is by playing good players playing optimally.  It actually handicaps the good players to play with casual players, since the casual players will do stuff no good player could predict and the game will change arbitrarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T19:25:40.380" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-26T21:39:33.110" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my suggestion: before you plunge headfirst into the dizzying money pit that is paper Magic (at least it can be, for those of us without enoug self-control!), try getting hold of Duels of the Planeswalkers on PC, XBox or PS3.  It's not &quot;real Magic&quot;, in a few ways that I'll mention, but it's an inexpensive way of getting close enough to it that you'll be able to tell if you like it.  DotP 2012 has just come out, contains lots of cards from up-to-the-minute and even yet-to-be-published sets, and will let you get to grips with the rules of the game against a reasonably good AI, or even play against other humans if that's your preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is DotP not like the actual game?  Most importantly, you don't have full freedom to build your own decks.  You start off with one of a dozen or so decks that are in the game, and by winning duels you unlock more cards that you can swap in for old cards, giving you the power to personalize your game, and get rid of cards you hate.  But you CAN'T take the red deck and the blue deck and mash them together into a crazy combination of both.  You're pretty much stuck with what you're given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's the great thing about real Magic.  There is no other game with such infinite potential.  I mean, this game has tens of thousands of &quot;pieces&quot; stretching back over 20 years of history, and quite a few hundred more cards being printed every year.  You can play it in about a dozen different officially sanctioned or semi-sanctioned ways, and there's something here for everyone.  But all of this comes with a price, and that price is money.  If you want to just get two precons and play them with a friend, that's $20.  But that's just a tiny sliver of the fun you can have with Magic.  Play Sealed Deck and Draft tournaments!  Take part in six-player multiplayer extravaganzas!  Try out Two-Headed Giant, or Commander, or Archenemy!  Make the huge financial investment required to compete effectively in Standard tournaments, or sell your house and car to scrape together the &quot;Power Nine&quot; cards required for a Vintage tournament!  The sky really is the limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may get to that point, you may not.  However, if you want to get a taster of the game for less than about ten bucks, Duels of the Planeswalkers is almost certainly your best option currently :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T21:39:33.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-26T22:25:03.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get started, is about 30 bucks - that'll get you two theme decks. If you get them from the same set, they'll be generally balanced against each other (they're not guaranteed to be balanced against decks from older sets). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to play competitively, it depends at what level - Magic runs several constructed formats, differentiated by how old the cards can be. The two most common formats are Standard (roughly the last two years worth of cards) and Extended (the last seven years worth of cards). Costs will vary accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-26T22:25:03.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-27T07:01:28.720" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never bought any Magic the Gathering cards but I have experience with plenty other CCG's. If you're not willing to sink a couple 100 $ into new cards every year don't even start!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every year there is a new Core Set with 250-450 cards as well as about three expansions totaling around 500 cards. The game I played the most did not have anywhere near that amount of cards coming out but I still bought about 300$ worth in each set (over a longer period though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the idea of card games like MtG but don't like the business model you should look into Games with more fixed card sets like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9446/blue-moon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Moon&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/58281/summoner-wars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Summoner Wars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T07:01:28.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-27T13:07:22.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the already-cited Intro Packs, the manufacturers have started releasing Event Decks for each block. These are pre-constructed decks built for the level of competition you'll face at the typical low-level tournament. They retail for $25, and are a pretty good investment as a starting player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T13:07:22.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4067" CreationDate="2011-06-27T20:45:00.990" Score="10" ViewCount="40882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the first thing you want to do is get the bonus turn. But I'm confused after that. You don't want to do your 4th hole from the left because that would allow your opponent to get 2 bonus moves. I also imagine you wouldn't want to do either of your 2 on the far left because you could use those for captures or maybe extra moves later. I'm assuming you would probably choose the 5th hole from the left as your last hole is much harder to capture and better to use for around the board captures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my logic anywhere near correct? What is the preferred opening in Mancala to maximize your chance of winning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEHbb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;mancala board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2017-12-29T03:36:46.260" Title="What is the correct opening move in mancala when you go first in a 6 hole per side board?" Tags="|openings|mancala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-27T20:59:54.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a handicap, I'd probably just boost all the other players up instead of tearing down the skilled player. Give all of the weaker players an extra development card and/or resource of their choice at the beginning. You could also give the skilled player slightly inferior drafts of initial settlements, like getting the third one and the last one and play the game normally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you yourself are the good player, I sometimes advise the other players a bit more than normal if they are going to make a bad decision. Occasionally when they accept my trade, I'll even tell them not to do it because I'm getting the better end of the deal and let them think it over again. but usually only once per game. Making your opponents better is always the best way to level the playing field! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'm not a fan of making the skilled player need more VPs to win or have less settlements/cities because it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; obvious that there's a handicap being used. My ideal conception of a handicap is something that levels the players' chances of winning without making it obvious that game modifications were required to do so. &quot;I win because I have 9 victory points and we modified the game so I only need 9&quot; is much less fun that &quot;I win with 10 VPs! (even though I happened to get an extra development card at the beginning, but everyone's forgotten about that, so my victory is untainted)&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-06-27T20:59:54.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4065" CreationDate="2011-06-27T21:19:40.270" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fritzdooley.com/mancala/6_mancala_best_opening_move.html&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; suggests third-from-the-left (your 4) followed by far-right (your 1). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This opening has the following strengths:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It empties bin F* early in the game, allowing Mi to play a single pebble from F into her mancala each time a single pebble lands there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It empties bin F at a time when at least two of the pebbles from F (those landing in J and I) will likely eventually come back around the board to Mi’s side.  Furthermore, if Yo makes the defensive G play, all five of the pebbles from G are ultimately likely to wind back up on Mi’s side.  For example, after playing G, Yo has six pebbles in H.  If she plays H on a subsequent turn, the sixth pebble in H will land in A, back on Mi’s side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It allows Mi to play from A, B, C, and F without repopulating Yo’s side of the board.  It therefore sets Mi up for an effective “starving” strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because of the large number of pebbles in each of Yo’s bins, it is unlikely that Yo will be able to counter with a stalling or starving strategy herself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, it puts Yo in a defensive position at her very first move of the game.  Yo has an immediate glaring vulnerability to being raided in bin G, and must therefore seriously contemplate the defensive G or HG responses.  Either of these responses, however, leaves her in the weakened board position of having each of her remaining bins populated with enough pebbles to play around to Mi’s side, thus reinforcing a starving strategy by Mi.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They go into a considerable amount of detail explaining subsequent moves, analysis, and their conclusions: I would definitely recommend reading the entire page to understand it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note: this page labels your far-left bin A and continues counter-clockwise, so your far-right bin is F, your opponent's far-right bin is G, and your opponent's far-left bin is L. Yo is the opponent with the mancala on the left; Mi is the player with the mancala on the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T01:35:47.197" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T01:35:47.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2011-06-28T09:13:21.387" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't get why many answers focus on the (pointless) booster buying, so I'm going to rectify that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In MTG there are many formats, which mostly fall in one of those two categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Constructed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing in a Limited tournament costs 10-20€, depending on the format, and that cost is the cost of the boosters to play it, plus an extremely small fee. These should be the only boosters that you buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Constructed you get to build your deck: to do that you should selectively buy just the cards you need, and once you have them you can keep using them as long as the format you're playing allows them (forever in Vintage or Legacy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: buying boosters is usually just plain stupid: &lt;strong&gt;you either get them anyway in the Limited tournaments, or you'd better buy specific cards for the Constructed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you might want to buy boosters anyway &quot;just for fun&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you might want to buy them as you would buy a lottery ticket (hint: don't)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the market could temporarily be &quot;broken&quot; so that the average amount of value of the cards in a booster might be greater than the cost of the booster itself (I guess it never happens, but it might; if it does, it will not last anyway, since the market would auto-adjust itself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="332" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T14:59:18.690" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T14:59:18.690" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4070" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:17:42.057" Score="12" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic: On The Brink there are several new event cards.  We are curious as to whether the &quot;New Assignment&quot; card lets you choose, or whether you pick one at random (as at the start of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a follow up question, the card suggests that any player may swap their role with the unused roles, does this mean each in turn gets the opportunity, or any one player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T15:43:21.113" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T15:43:21.113" Title="Can you choose the role with the &quot;New Assignment&quot; event?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4069" CreationDate="2011-06-28T12:46:29.133" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play it on any player (not just yourself) at any time.  That &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; player is then allowed to choose a specific role from the available ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/445335/assignment-change&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; has the game's designer clarifying that it is intended to only affect a single player.  He doesn't specifically comment about choosing versus random, but since earlier people mention choosing and he doesn't correct them, it seems this is the correct interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the card quite powerful, but choosing a random role would be too weak (you're just as likely to get something less suited to your current situation), and allowing everyone to switch roles would be ridiculously overpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2011-06-28T12:51:38.557" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T12:51:38.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4071" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-06-28T17:45:18.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pandemic: On The Brink is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'pandemic'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/pandemicOTB.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Website&lt;/a&gt; at Z-Man Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/OTB/PandemicOTB_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt; at Z-Man Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:13:01.870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:13:01.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4072" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-06-28T17:45:18.523" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Pandemic that adds new challenges like mutating diseases and one player becoming a bio-terrorist. Also allows for play with 5 people." OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:13:01.870" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:13:01.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-28T21:54:01.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change the # of victory points required to win.  Instead of required 10 victory points to win.  Have victory point total be 8 or 9 for the less skilled players while keeping the 10 point victory condition for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-06-28T21:54:01.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4076" CreationDate="2011-06-29T03:10:21.740" Score="11" ViewCount="3631" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 7 Wonders, you do a lot of building things and purchasing resources from your neighbors. Naturally, you cannot purchase resources that &lt;em&gt;aren't actually there&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, sometimes you run into a situation where you attempt to build a building that requires a resource that isn't available right now, but it just so happens someone also built the resource &lt;em&gt;that turn&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a case, is it possible to purchase the resource from that player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Times this would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You were going to build something from your left neighbor, but you have a discount from the one on the right and hey they happened to build it this turn!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to try and build a thing that I can't afford, hoping my neighbor will build something. If not, I'll just discard for cash instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T16:58:36.747" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T15:36:43.760" Title="In Seven-Wonders Can I buy resources that were built by my neighbors this turn?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4077" CreationDate="2011-06-29T04:47:55.630" Score="9" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the Talisman 4th edition game published by Black Industries. Talisman revised 4th edition is now published by Fantasy Flight Games. I have seen an upgrade pack that is supposed to make the 4th edition game compatible with the revised 4th edition and its expansion packs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upgrade pack contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rulesheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over 160 Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 Character Cards and Figures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Plastic Toad Figures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;36 Fate Tokens &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this upgrade pack worth purchasing? Retail is  approx. $20 USD and that seems like it could be a bit much for no new content.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the new rulesheet address all the typos and misprints in the 4th edition rules and board?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can someone with the 4th edition use the revised 4th edition expansions without this upgrade? I know Fantasy Flight would say, &quot;No way,&quot; but I want to know what things have changed that would make the expansions not work right.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:45:39.253" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:45:39.253" Title="Is the Talisman Upgrade Pack worthwhile?" Tags="|expansions|talisman|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4074" CreationDate="2011-06-29T05:32:53.830" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Semi-duplicate of an earlier question of mine: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3326/timing-rules-in-seven-wonders&quot;&gt;Timing Rules in Seven Wonders&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consensus we seemed to come to then was that, no, you can't build something with a neighbour's resources that have come into play that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps to clarify the order that things go in, I recommend doing it this way: everyone reveals their card, which is not yet in play.  Then everyone pays the costs of their revealed cards (buying resources from neighbours if necessary).  Then the revealed cards are put into play, and any resulting gold bonuses are added to players' treasuries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit &quot;Magic the Gathering&quot; (and possibly a bit anal!) to break everything down into discrete phases in this way, but I think it makes it a lot easier to visualise what's happening, when people are still hazy on the precise timing rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T05:32:53.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4075" CreationDate="2011-06-29T06:23:19.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;No new content&quot; is wrong. There is a small change with big impact in the FFG rules... fate points. (Reroll failed rolls.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yep. The only change in rules is the addition of fate points. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards are, IIRC, all errata items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T07:23:43.840" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T07:23:43.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4082" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:24:06.707" Score="-1" ViewCount="1788" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most contracts are predicated on the supposition that the defenders will win some tricks. If game can be made with &quot;26 points and eight trumps,&quot; this leaves 14 points and five trumps to the defenders as an &quot;allowance.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defenders' 14 high card points gives them an &quot;allowance&quot; of at least three tricks. (They actually have the material for four tricks, but it is assumed that the declarer will be able to &quot;ruff,&quot; or otherwise neutralize one of them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose one defender has JT98x of trumps. He has the whole trump &quot;allowance&quot; for his side. More to the point, this holding will take two trump tricks, whereas if they were split 3-2 (which occurs 68% of the time), these five trumps would take zero tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absent the jack of trumps, the defenders have an &quot;allowance&quot; of 12-13 high card points which should be good for three tricks. Their two trump tricks are clearly above their &quot;allowance.&quot; Does this fact make this a good time to double for penalties? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how do you guard against the possibility that the double will scare the opponents into a better contract, or that revealing where your strength lies would cause declarer to alter his play and make the contract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T20:55:29.263" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T19:14:30.330" Title="Is A Good time Make a &quot;Penalty&quot; Double When Your Defensive Tricks Exceed Your &quot;Allowance&quot;?" Tags="|tactics|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4460" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:40:12.267" Score="6" ViewCount="12251" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a poker night I organise with friends, we're currently ratifying a set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the blind structure, at the moment, we start with blinds of 5/10 and increase the blinds every 15 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we want a game to last for say, 2 hours (obviously, loose or aggressive play can influence this) is there a blind increase structure or schedule that can make a game last roughly 2 hours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of players varies for each game, anywhere between 4 and 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="1488" LastEditDate="2011-06-29T15:50:21.713" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T14:35:47.410" Title="Is there a way to approximate Hold'em blind increases to time a game?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4096" CreationDate="2011-06-29T15:48:55.927" Score="2" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a WSOP (or other organisation) agreed hold-'em tournament set-up for chips and blinds schedule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. something that lays out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chips arrangement:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Players start with 2000 worth of chips:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;200 in 5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;200 in 10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;500 in 25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;600 in 50&lt;br&gt;&#xA;500 in 100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blinds schedule:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5-10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;10-20&lt;br&gt;&#xA;20-40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;25-50&lt;br&gt;&#xA;30-60&lt;br&gt;&#xA;50-100&lt;br&gt;&#xA;100-200&lt;br&gt;&#xA;200-400&lt;br&gt;&#xA;250-500 (max)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blind increase:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Blinds increase every 15 minutes/per knock out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any sites recommend set-ups for home games for varying numbers of players (under 10)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T13:55:44.103" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T18:18:31.770" Title="Is there WSOP (or other organisation) Texas Hold-em chip and blind schedule?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2011-06-29T16:01:53.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long is a piece of string?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are few guarantees in Bridge, but if the opponents have bid up to a contract that you think is over-optimistic, then you weigh up the extra points you'd be giving your opponents if they somehow make against the significant rewards you'll receive if they fail, and act accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to play a lot of casual Bridge online, and while it's a little bit odious, there was a phenomenon known as the &quot;Pogo double&quot; (Pogo being the name of the site).  If the opponents are going to win the match anyway if the contract makes, you might as well double them, just in case against all the odds they fail.  There was no conceivable downside, so people did it, even though to my mind it was somehow &quot;not cricket&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your concerns about helping the opponents find a better contract by doubling them are very sensible.  I think in such situations you just have to look at your hand and consider, what do my opponents not know that I know here?  If, for instance, you have 5 cards in their proposed trump suit, doubling is all very well but will alert them of the unfortunate split.  Even if they don't &quot;escape&quot; to a different contract, by making the double you told them to watch out for an unusual lie of cards, and this may help them make a game they might otherwise have lost due to incautious play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure there are any hard and fast rules, but I think you generally only want to make a penalty double if you're certain of your defensive position, or near as dammit.  There's a lot that can go wrong when the opponents have been warned that's something up, and generally you get a lot more egg on your face when you double opponents into game, or give them their &quot;insult bonus&quot;, then when they go down one or two undoubled as opposed to doubled!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T16:01:53.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-06-29T19:45:53.907" Score="15" ViewCount="11038" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some rule changes that shorten the game, and what drawbacks do those changes have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please limit your answers to rules changes with which you have first-hand experience!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T18:08:08.010" LastActivityDate="2021-06-01T04:55:21.270" Title="Short-version of Settlers of Catan" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2011-06-29T22:20:59.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Borrowing a mode from another game: you only get one offer attempt per opponent. They either accept or reject. If accepted, you may repeat after the first trade. Move on to next offerer (in 5-6p).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-06-29T22:20:59.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7557" CreationDate="2011-06-30T03:38:22.353" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;We dug out my old X-Files CCG cards to play tonight, and in the process of playing, came across the card &quot;Women's Health Clinic, Richville, MD&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card Stats:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;WOMENʹS HEALTH CLINIC, RICHVILLE, MD&#xA;XF97‐0380v2 ‐‐ Rare&#xA;Episode: End Game&#xA;Site ‐‐ Cost: 2 RP&#xA;Keywords: Site, Mono, Result, Subterfuge&#xA;Prerequisite: SUBTERFUGE 4+&#xA;Question: You may ask one MOTIVE question.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sites have keywords, which other cards can then play against.  This card has the keywords Site, Mono, Result, Subterfuge, but lets you ask a Motive question.  In the base set as well as the first expansion, if a site had Motive as the question, it would have Motive in its set of keywords.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a sample of a site that makes sense (picture is a little blurry):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4FRxc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &quot;Women's Health Clinic, Richville, MD&quot; card has Result as a keyword, but you can ask a Motive question.  I can either assume 1 of 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The keywords should actually be Site, Mono, Motive, Subterfuge (third keyword matches the question asked)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The question asked should actually be Result (to match the current third keyword)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is actually by design; while allowing you to ask a Motive question, it allows players to play Result-specific cards on the site instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played the card as printed (you can ask a Motive question, but Result cards can be played on it), but the card threw us for a loop.  Does anyone have any information if this is actually a typo of sorts, or by design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A spoiler of the cards can currently be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://vincent.dangvu.free.fr/xfiles-spoiler.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in PDF format for those interested)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T00:34:19.550" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T00:34:19.550" Title="Typo in the Women's Health Clinic, Richville, MD card?" Tags="|x-files-ccg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2011-06-30T04:42:34.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no and advise to consider India instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T04:42:34.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4092" CreationDate="2011-06-30T06:16:37.420" Score="7" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do Paladins count as Adventurers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year one, I kill the Paladin, and no adventurers.&#xA;Year two, the first spell is Magic Key (a slow spell): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard one of your imprisoned adventurers (if you have any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I can't kill an adventurer and/or all the magic users, do I lose my first year paladin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T19:06:45.577" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T19:06:45.577" Title="Does the Paladin count as an adventurer for the purposes of the Magic Key spell?" Tags="|dungeon-lords|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="65" CreationDate="2011-06-30T09:29:08.903" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Solution&quot; to Merchant Elves is &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; Sorcerers. With only 8 tokens, ME's are not terribly strong (but are rolling in VP's). If they have ANY one token space, get next to it, and convert an Elf. The Elf player drops a token, and can't get it back, and further, just lost 2 points of maximum potential income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Sorcerers are not to hand, just beat up and reinforce the heck out of the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Place the substituted opponent's Race token back into the storage tray.&quot; SW rules page 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T04:03:48.133" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T04:03:48.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-30T11:04:26.437" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need any handicaps. After just a few games, you will automatically get handicapped when other players unite against you (no trades, using all cards against you, blocking roads etc) so that you do not win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T11:04:26.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3801" CreationDate="2011-06-30T11:06:57.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dot calculation (5 for 6 and 8, 4 for 5 and 9 etc) is a good starting point, especially at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T11:06:57.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4088" CreationDate="2011-06-30T13:04:33.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question! From the FAQ: &lt;a href=&quot;http://czechgames.com/en/dungeon-lords/faq/#faq-2374&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;What rules and cards affect the paladin in combat?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The paladin is still an adventurer, so&#xA;  anything that affects adventurers&#xA;  affects him (including traps and&#xA;  attacks that damage all adventurers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, you lose your Paladin. Dungeon Lords is indeed a brutal game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T13:04:33.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4094" CreationDate="2011-06-30T13:18:05.937" Score="14" ViewCount="2480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just learning the game, so some of my comments may seem ill-informed. But it seems that strategies fall under two categories, a commodity-based strategy and a building-based strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commodities are simple enough. Produce a lucrative commodity (and take on roles that will increase production or profitability), then &quot;cash out&quot; for victory points at a high rate in foreign markets. This is what I call a &quot;constructive&quot; strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another strategy is to invest in the local economy in the form of buildings. At first blush, this seems less lucrative than selling commodities. But many winning players prefer this strategy, perhaps because it gives them some &quot;veto&quot; power over other players' shipments. This is what I call an &quot;obstructive&quot; strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game such as backgammon, I would use a &quot;constructive&quot; (running) strategy if I got high rolls early in the game. With low rolls, I would use an &quot;obstructive&quot; strategy of building hurdles to make opponents &quot;waste&quot; rolls. Could an analogous dynamic support the acquisition of buildings in Puerto Rico? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also seems that with buildings that there are hidden &quot;synergies&quot; or feedback effects. For instance, the &quot;list price&quot; may be five doubloons for a building with three victory points. But under some circumstances, the building &quot;kicks back&quot; two doubloons, which may be used to buy another building (and more victory points. Or it may &quot;kick back&quot; a colonist that may be used to upgrade another building. Meaning that the five doubloon building actually costs &quot;less&quot; than its &quot;list price.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could it be that buying buildings is a highly  &quot;constructive&quot; strategy, but only if you buy several of them in tandem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T15:02:08.907" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T17:25:13.623" Title="What Makes Buildings Valuable In Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4093" CreationDate="2011-06-30T13:59:25.453" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The value of buildings comes from 2 sources&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Providing a direct VP contribution to your strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Providing money to implement your strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you have correctly determined there are 2 archetypes of strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Shippers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Builders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shipping Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously they try to win by shipping more goods than the other players. They will choose buildings that give them better yield and control over shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Building Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy is based on filling your city with high scoring buildings a quickly as possible so to end the game before the shippers can play their advantage. They will try to go for at least one big building (depending on what gives them the best score).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Supporting the Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally important to both strategies is money. Without a decent income you cannot develop either strategy. So early and mid game the focus will be on buildings that improve the yield of your trades or your chances for getting a trade. Another form of income are quarries. So building that support you in getting one are also good early choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is generally not a good choice is to buy something another player wants but you don't need. Aside from the fact that most buildings exist at least twice and you can only have one, even if you can buy a coveted building from under the nose of an opponent you'll be set back just as much by that buy. The other players will thank you for it. As such, &quot;obstructive building&quot; is not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking the question is not what buildings have good synergies with each other. The question is what buildings have good synergies with your particular strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you browse the forums over at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3076/puerto-rico&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; for more strategy on Puerto Rico. There is at least &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/13812/the-039best039-puerto-rico-strategy-startegy-amp&quot;&gt;one very in-depth strategy guide&lt;/a&gt; there that explains the mechanics far better than I could here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T15:01:33.680" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T15:01:33.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="150" CreationDate="2011-06-30T14:51:32.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with others that the speed of play and the acceptance/willingness to throw in cards increases with the more you play and the more comfortable you become with the game and your partner/opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually play the way you describe in your question. We play out all the tricks until the remaining cards no longer have mathematical significance. Sometimes, if I am playing an intense game with beginners or suspected cheaters, I want to see all the tricks played one-by-one so that I can make sure no one gets an unfair advantage by reneging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1492" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T14:51:32.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4081" CreationDate="2011-06-30T15:20:00.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blind structure depends strongly on too many factors to have a standard structure. Most importantly it depends on the chip values you use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look at the offical WSOP structure on it's site: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wsop.com/tournaments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wsop.com/tournaments/&lt;/a&gt; (The &quot;Structure Sheet&quot; links)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="512" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T15:20:00.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4112" CreationDate="2011-06-30T16:46:20.747" Score="5" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;We played with Agricola: The Goodies for the first time last night, and while it was very silly, it didn't have the negative impact on gameplay that I'd feared.  However, the Occupation cards from the L-deck created all sorts of rules questions for us that we weren't quite equipped to answer.  But that's where this site comes in!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bean Farmer occupation reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once you have player the Bean Farmer,&#xA;  no opponent can change the order of&#xA;  the cards in their hand; they may only&#xA;  play the card that is at the front. &#xA;  &lt;em&gt;(If the first card is an Occupation, for example, they cannot play a Minor&#xA;  Improvement.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is there a canonical interpretation of the &quot;front&quot; of your hand?  If you are holding your cards in a fan, where the rightmost card is the only one with its full face showing, is that the front?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the intent of this card is to force the opponents to play Bohnanza-style, but this just adds complexity to the issue: when I play Bohnanza, I consider my &quot;first bean&quot; to be the card at the far left of my fan!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event we ruled that each player could decide what constituted the &quot;front&quot; of their hand, but this may be open to abuse.  Is there a definitive &quot;front&quot; and &quot;back&quot; of your hand in Agricola?  And incidentally, have I been playing Bohnanza wrong all these years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-04T19:54:44.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T19:54:44.397" Title="Hand Order In Agricola (and Bohnanza)" Tags="|agricola|bohnanza|agricola-goodies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3403" CreationDate="2011-06-30T17:32:42.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Is a mathematical approach viable as long as there are 5 players with almost all the dices left?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A straight probability is never a bad place to start. You know that 1/6 of the dice will be your number (before you start adding in the 1s. In a five-player game, there are 25 dice. So, it's safeish to assume that there should be around 4 twos (for instance). Obviously you don't want to start that high, but it gives you a good benchmark for when you should start worrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How much do I have to factor the play style of my opponents into the equation at that stage of the game?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is hard to answer since we don't know your opponent's. Any information/tells they're giving up is useful, so I'd start paying attention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What is a good betting strategy to avoid being involved in a showdown?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Liar's Dice boils down to two questions:&#xA;1. What is riskier: calling your opponent's bid or one-upping him?&#xA;2. What is riskier to the player &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you: calling your bid or one-upping? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid showdowns, you need your opponent to bid low enough that you can safely bid low enough that your opponent would rather bid again rather than call. (Put another way, if your bid is plausible, but the next player can't one-up without being called himself, they'll probably call &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; and hope for luck. You need to leave the next player room to &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; be safe-ish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the whole point of the game is the tension of bids becoming ever-more-unlikely, so avoiding showdowns entirely is not going to happen. What you want to be aiming for is to make sure that it's &lt;em&gt;safer&lt;/em&gt; for your opponent to bid rather than call you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T17:32:42.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4113" CreationDate="2011-06-30T17:39:21.693" Score="3" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;We played with Agricola: The Goodies for the first time last night, and while it was very silly, it didn't have the negative impact on gameplay that I'd feared.  However, the Occupation cards from the L-deck created all sorts of rules questions for us that we weren't quite equipped to answer.  But that's where this site comes in!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text of the &quot;Franz&quot; occupation reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At any time, you can give this card to&#xA;  a player who has spent too long&#xA;  thinking about their turn, and place&#xA;  one of your family members instead.&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;(This player misses a turn, but can use the Franz card later.)&lt;/em&gt; If you&#xA;  played Franz during the game and&#xA;  passed him to another player, you can&#xA;  say &lt;em&gt;&quot;I am not Franz!&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and receive 1&#xA;  Bonus point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened in our first-ever-time-playing-the-Goodies Agricola game last night was this.  I (to my shame!) was taking way too long over my turn.  One of the other players called me on it and passed me Franz &lt;strong&gt;from his hand&lt;/strong&gt;. I was the last player, and he didn't have a family member to place instead.  To make matters even more crazy, the Simplifier was in play: &quot;Occupations with more than 4 lines of text have no effect for the remainder of the game.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I queried multiple things about this play.  One, can you pass me Franz directly from your hand? Don't you have to actually play an Occupation before you use it? Two, even if Franz breaks the rules and can be played from hand, can he played with the Simplifier effect in play? Three, can you play Franz if you don't have a family member to place instead?  (The Franz-playing player argued that the card wouldn't do anything anyway because of the Simplifier being in play, but that he was still entitled to pass it to me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four, what on earth does the last line on the card mean?  I keep reading and re-reading it and can't parse its meaning. Does it imply that if you actually spent an action playing the Franz occupation (as opposed to just passing it on after getting it from someone else), you get 1 Bonus point every time you Franz someone?  That's the interpretation I'm leaning towards having thought about it for a while, but it seemed very ambiguous last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone spell out how Franz works, in a way that will clear up all of the above confusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T05:43:38.950" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T09:56:43.023" Title="How Does The &quot;Franz&quot; L-Deck Occupation Work?" Tags="|agricola|agricola-goodies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4481" CreationDate="2011-06-30T17:45:23.953" Score="4" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;We played with Agricola: The Goodies for the first time last night, and while it was very silly, it didn't have the negative impact on gameplay that I'd feared.  However, the Occupation cards from the L-deck created all sorts of rules questions for us that we weren't quite equipped to answer.  But that's where this site comes in!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Simplifier occupation reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Occupations with more than 4 lines of&#xA;  text have no effect for the remainder&#xA;  of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Snitch has about 9 lines of text in total, but begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Immediately flip 1 Occupation that you&#xA;  have played face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In last night's rather crazy all-Goodies game of Agricola, one of the players played the Simplifier, to switch off the damn Bean Farmer for a while, but then played the Snitch to flip her own Simplifer, and reinstate the Bean Farmer.  (I never played an Occupation or Minor Improvement in the whole game because of all these shenanigans!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The $1 million dollar question is of course, can you really flip the Simplifier with the Snitch, or is he unSnitchable?  (It seemed more fun to allow it at the time, but this type of thing is what keeps me awake at night!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T05:42:02.633" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T16:07:20.877" Title="The Simplifier vs The Snitch" Tags="|agricola|agricola-goodies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2011-06-30T18:13:32.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wandering a bit away from &quot;board game&quot;, you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/dice/zombiedice/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/a&gt; from Steve Jackson Games. Fun for the grownups, teaches counting and decision making (do I roll again? Am I winning?), and just random enough that you won't have to cheat to let the kids win. (My four-year-old is either way better or way luckier at this game than I am, for instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T18:13:32.110" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-06-30T18:13:32.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4097" CreationDate="2011-06-30T18:15:19.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that if there was an argument, the &quot;front&quot; of your hand would be the card that you can completely see when it's fanned. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T18:15:19.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-06-30T18:48:07.973" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Set a limit to how many cards in your hand you can use on a turn.  Say for example 50% rounding up or down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's say you decide to handicap yourself 50% rounding up and you have 5 cards in your hand.  This would mean you could only use 3 of the 5 cards on this turn.  This will put you more at risk with the robber as to build a city, you'd need to have 10 cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure how'd this would play out, just trying to think of something that would fit your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T18:48:07.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4106" CreationDate="2011-06-30T19:22:05.350" Score="8" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a token get added to the Deep One Rising Track for a Monster Surge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule in question:&#xA;&quot;There are two primary ways for the Deep Ones rising track to advance.  Each time a Gate is prevented from opening, such as by an elder sign token, or an investigator ability, add one uprising token to the Deep One Rising track&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T22:01:07.363" Title="Do Monster Surges Count as a Prevented Gate Opening for the Purpose of Increasing the Deep One Rising Track?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4108" CreationDate="2011-06-30T19:42:43.850" Score="3" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have been playing that the number of board expansions does not effect the successes required to defeat the elder god, as it does not seem in the spirit of the rule.  The rules seem to back this up but do not explicitly state it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Successes Required to Defeat the Elder God:&#xA;When the Elder God wakes the number of successes is set to the number of Players(I take this to mean agents if some players are playing more then 1) times the number of spaces elder gods doom track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining Multiple Expansions:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&quot;The rules are unchanged when using more than one expansion city, except that the number of players should be counted as being one less for each expansion board in play beyond the first. So, if six players are playing a game using both Dunwich and Innsmouth (for a total of two expansion cities), they are counted as having one less player, for a total of five players. This modified number of players is used for such things as the monster limit and the maximum number of gates that can be open at once, and it reduces the level of difficulty for the players since they have so much more ground to cover&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T22:14:27.580" Title="Is the Elder God Health affected by the number of board expansions in play?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2011-06-30T21:30:09.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently the official ruling is that a monster surge is not a gate opening, it is an effect that occurs instead; and it does not cause a Deep One token to be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Deep_Ones_Rising_track&quot;&gt;This page on the Arkham Horror wiki&lt;/a&gt; also suggests that adding a Deep One token is an event that occurs at a different time than a monster surge, and offers some additional explanation of the difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T21:30:09.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4104" CreationDate="2011-06-30T22:01:07.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A deep one rising token is added when a gate is prevented from opening. A monster surge occurs when a gate opens on a location that has a gate already. So really, the second gate isn't prevented from opening, as it's the opening that causes the monster surge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gate are (at the moment at least) really only prevented from opening by seals on the board or Kate Winthrop's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T22:01:07.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4105" CreationDate="2011-06-30T22:07:19.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm of the same mindset. The final battle's difficulty shouldn't change based on how many boards there were to run around on; the battle isn't any harder because there was more space to run around on, things to get done, etc. There's just as many opportunities to gain weapons and spells, why should the fight be any harder? There was a thread on this topic on the Fantasy Flight messages boards some time ago, but I can't seem to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here we go! From the Kevin Wilson answers thread on the forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[KH] 10. While using Kingsport and Dunwich together you count the # of Investigators as one less for monster limit, outskirts, etc. due to there being so much ground to cover. I take it this does not apply to the number of successes needed to remove a doom token in the final battle? (06/13/08) &#xA;  Correct. Otherwise the final fight would be a lot easier than intended. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-Kevin Wilson &#xA;  Fantasy Flight Games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2011-06-30T22:14:27.580" LastActivityDate="2011-06-30T22:14:27.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4110" CreationDate="2011-07-01T06:17:41.617" Score="5" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reasonably sure the answer is no, but at Monster Payday I (or when hiring) can you sacrifice a ghost to the demon? Or not, since it's not a monster, and the icon is a monster icon and ghosts aren't monsters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T06:51:10.040" Title="Can Demons &quot;eat&quot; ghosts?" Tags="|dungeon-lords|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4109" CreationDate="2011-07-01T06:51:10.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't sacrifice a ghost to a demon. From the final page (24) of &lt;a href=&quot;http://czechgames.com/files/DL_rulebook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, under the description of ghosts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ghosts can not be used to pay the cost&#xA;  for a demon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then later, under the description of demons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heh, heh. That's me. I'm always happy&#xA;  to help you reduce your overhead. But&#xA;  don't think you can get away with&#xA;  feeding me ghosts. They just go right&#xA;  through me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T06:51:10.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-07-01T07:22:10.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually play Settlers of Catan with resource cards exposed.  This dramatically shortens the trading, as there is no question of whether any player owns a particular resource.  The 'drawback' of this, is that players no longer have to remember what's been received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tactic we use to shorten the game is playing quickly.  This isn't really a rules change, but if players agree at the beginning that they are hoping for a quick game, then this seems to give enough motivation for everyone to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T07:22:10.647" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4097" CreationDate="2011-07-01T07:32:48.897" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bohnanza rulebook on page 3 states that the &quot;first card&quot; in each player's hand is the one that is fully visible when fanned. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_36_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Rulebook here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1477" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T07:32:48.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4099" CreationDate="2011-07-01T09:56:43.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last sentence on the German card is a bit clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wenn du Franz ausgespielt hast und bei Spielende nicht mehr hast, kannst du &quot;Ich bin nicht Franz!&quot; sagen und erhaelst 1 Sonderpunkt.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is: &quot;If you played Franz and don't have it any more at the game's end...&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which says that you only receive the bonus point at the end of the game. The condition here is slightly different from the one on the English card. If you play the card, pass it, get it back, and play it again, you do not receive the bonus point. The German card is not clear about what happens if you play it, pass it, get it back, and keep it in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your other questions: I think you're right. The card has to be played first before it has any effect, just like any other occupation. In combination with the Simplifier, Franz has no effect: it cannot be passed to another player, and gives no bonus point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1366" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T09:56:43.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2011-07-01T16:55:11.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is something of a &quot;compendium&quot; of answers from the site. The first thing to note is whether the opponents are bidding rationally or not. One &quot;irrational&quot; situation arose in the comments with thesunneverset, when opposing partners seem to be 6-1 or 7-0 in each others' suits, and are obviously bidding against themselves in a &quot;mIsfit.&quot; Then a penalty double is clearly called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest comes from a link provided by arabhyata, who declined to answer for himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeaholics.com/articles/classics/SJSimon.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bridgeaholics.com/articles/classics/SJSimon.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the opponents are bidding rationally, the time to double is when they are surprised. Such a surprise might be if they bid game with a 5-4 fit, and you had KQJT, or maybe QJT9, or JT9xx (in an eight card fit). Your cards happen to be stronger because they are connected than they would be individually, and your opponents won't count on you having ALL of them. Ditto, in the NT example I gave if you are sitting &quot;west&quot; in relation to a NT bidder, with KQJxx and two side kings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you might refrain from doubling with a &quot;strong&quot; hand, or something like Jxxxx. Your opponents will probably go down if you keep quiet, but may find a squeeze or endplay if you warn them by doubling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T16:55:11.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2011-07-01T17:01:37.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you worked through all the suggested combinations in the rules booklets yet?    Each of those sets ups has a certain play style and generally plays quite well.  When playing random games, cards may not show a lot of synergy between them.  This makes it more challenging to play, but also can slow down the game if your lacking cards that give extra actions, or have a lot of similar cards.  Even for random games, the group I play with tends to make adjustments in the cards on the table to make the game more exciting for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The group I play with also doesn't play games heavy on attack cards back to back.  Attack cards can be really frustrating when you keep getting hit by them, and if that's what the game degenerates into, I personally don't enjoy it as much.  There is more tension in the room during those games, and we like to alternate games like that, with card sets that allow you to build up easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, try playing the game with three or four people.  Dominion plays a little slower, but it also gives more variety with what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T17:01:37.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4137" CreationDate="2011-07-01T18:29:30.213" Score="6" ViewCount="2811" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I expect most of us Agricola nuts have already got a tackle box for all the meeples and counters.  But now that I own the base set, Farmers of the Moor, the Gamers Deck, AND the Goodies, I'm finding the cards pretty unmanageable too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base set comes with E, I, K and Z decks (for both Minor Imps and Occupations), plus the Occupations have to be subdivided into 1+, 3+ and 4+ player sets, if like us you often play with fewer than 4 players.  Farmers of the Moor has Minor Improvements with different backs, subdivided into (confusingly) another E deck and an F deck.  The Gamers deck adds a G deck, and the Goodies brings the L, Cz, Oe and X decks!  (All of these including Occupations suitable for different minimum numbers of players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temptation is just to give up and mix them all up together, apart from the Farmers of the Moor improvements, and sorting the Occupations by minimum player number; but maybe there's a better way.  Can anyone recommend a method of boxing and dividing Agricola cards so we can quickly play with any subsets of cards we choose?  Are there any commercially available card boxes that are the perfect size for Agricola cards, have enough capacity to accommodate my growing collection, and preferably come with dividers too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-07-01T19:37:03.753" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:39:02.460" Title="Agricola Card Organization Solutions?" Tags="|agricola|storage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2011-07-01T22:06:47.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what we do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we clean up, we store the last set of ten cards and start with that as the base for the next game.&#xA;At the end of each game, the losers each pick a card to replace. If it's just two players we'll usually both pick a card and a card to replace it with. Collusion is TOTALLY allowed, and we tend to be rather relaxed about it. We usually try and swap in a couple of new cards at the end of the game even if it is the last one for the evening. It doesn't matter if a different group of people will be playing next time either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method keeps the game play fresh, and allows for small changes to suit a particular groups playstyle, and makes setup faster. When we first started we kept our choices secret or made the &quot;winningest&quot; player pick first so the lower placed players could base their picks off of that, but my group is fairly fairly relaxed, and we've found it's usually more fun if the &quot;loserest&quot; tells people what he'd like to see (as far as playstyle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do occasionally pick a set and try and get more of the cards from that set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T22:06:47.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2011-07-01T22:34:50.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will be a little too big, but they make &quot;file boxes&quot; for index cards, and also dividers.  The boxes I've seen hold around 500 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't have the expansions so our problem is simpler than yours, but we just use rubber bands to separate groups of cards, and when playing with an unusual-for-us number of players we just dig through to find the right ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-07-01T22:34:50.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2011-07-02T00:29:51.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about using papier mâché? You could use those egg crates to get a very fine-textured pulp and build the insert from that, then cover the backside with paper strips. Lightweight, durable, cheap, and paints easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1494" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T00:29:51.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-07-02T01:50:42.497" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have also heard of the playing with the resource cards face up but I hate this house rule because it takes away the fun of bluffing. Here's a couple suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Come up with a standard way to phrase the bartering. I'm not sure how to do this but there has to be some way to avoid those confusions where people themselves want the same resource as you. Maybe players could say either: I want X, or I have X.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Allow players to pick a random resource whenever they don't gain a resource from the dice roll.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Institute a penalty for not passing the dice when your turn is over. Either losing a random resource card or losing a turn, depending on how harsh you want to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Find one of those 1 minute hour glass things used in games like Pictionary and use that to make players take shorter turns. You could have a lose a turn penalty for going over too.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last, play to a smaller number of points. I like this the least as it doesn't allow for the normal progression of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The items above with &lt;strike&gt;strikeout&lt;/strike&gt; are ideas that I have not personally tried, at least not exactly as written. I didn't see that part of the question before. Feel free to edit/delete this answer if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1486" LastEditorUserId="1486" LastEditDate="2011-07-04T02:11:39.907" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T02:11:39.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4130" CreationDate="2011-07-02T03:47:01.350" Score="24" ViewCount="17049" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the moment I just have the base set of Dominion and Dominion-Intrigue, each of which are a full set so currently I'm storing each per the in-the-box organizers in their original boxes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when we buy another expansion (and more after that) I'm starting to wonder how we can best store all of these expansions. I've seen (but don't recall exactly where) various solutions for storing Dominion cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For us I think the following features would be needed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;easy and rapid setup (so no need to resort piles beyond counting out the numbers of some cards per the number of players - which in our case is usually two)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;easy to clean up when the game is over and/or set up another game with a different set of cards&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;consistency in how the cards are organized - I've noticed that the default organization structure changed between the Base set's layout and Intrigue (the base set alpha sorted while Intrigue sorted the cards into more categories before alpha sorting) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ideally space efficient so we can more easily travel with our games&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T19:38:07.377" Title="What is a good way to store multiple expansions of Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-prosperity|dominion-alchemy|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2011-07-02T03:57:16.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go to boardgamegeek.com and print and construct the custom tuck boxes for each deck.  Worked great 4 me.  Or, put the game away and just play online at play-Agricola.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Monica rubber banding you cards is sac-religious to us ultra board game dorks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1476" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T03:57:16.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2011-07-02T13:15:22.493" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a 3,000 card box from the local gaming store and then printed off a cardstock set of tab dividers from Board Game Geek (I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/59848/sumpforks-double-sided-dominion-tabs-for-all-expan&quot;&gt;Sumpfork tabs&lt;/a&gt;). All cards go alphabetically instead of by set, except for the cards common to all games. Prizes are stored with Tournament, because that's the only scenario in which you would need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify setup of Victory/Curse cards, I change the direction of the cards. For Victory cards, the first 8 face forward and the second 4 face backwards so I can easily separate out the cards not needed for a 2 player game. I do the same with Curses: 10 forward, next 10 backwards, final 10 forwards. Estates get complicated; I do 8 forward, 4 back, then 4 sets of 3 alternating forward and back (for starting hands). I could do alternating sets of 7 Coppers as well, but I haven't gotten around to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T13:15:22.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-07-02T22:02:41.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rule variation that I prefer is to limit the movement of the robber:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When a 7 is rolled or an army played, can move the robber one hex position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This speeds up the game with more resource production, since you can't automatically move the robber to the location where your opponents produce the most resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawback is that robber tends to stay in the same area of the board so one player can get stuck with the robber for much of the game.  So this becomes another strategic factor in initial placement an village/city construction location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2011-07-02T22:02:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1529" CreationDate="2011-07-03T04:18:52.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are you trying to store, chits or models/figurines  What sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For chits, we buy plastic trays (with lids) at a local gaming store.  A tray is about 9x12&quot; and has 15 compartments -- great for the gazillion different types of chits in Merchant of Venus, 7 Ages, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For figurines, back in my D&amp;amp;D days I took open-cell foam (that's the squishy yellow kind), cut it to fit the box I was going to use, and then cut out little &quot;nooks&quot; sized for the figures in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T04:18:52.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4146" CreationDate="2011-07-03T05:18:42.480" Score="3" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the swingier cards in the Agricola X-Deck is &quot;Mind the Jets!&quot;.  Players lucky enough to have renovated to a Clay house get their dwelling hardened to Stone by the jets of the alien spacecraft... but players whose houses are still made of Wood watch them burn down to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It didn't seem problematic to us having two families without a roof over their heads - obviously there wasn't going to be much Family Growth in our game's future!  However, our issue lay in interpreting the text on the card which states that homeless players may &quot;renovate&quot; back to a 2-room Wooden hut for 2 Wood and 1 Reed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this action require a family member to visit the Renovate space to get their house back?  The card's use of inverted commas implied to us that this was not a normal Renovation, so we ruled that getting a 2-room Wooden house back was a free action, to anyone with the required Goods in their supply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then, another issue arose, which was that I had an Occupation in play, the Wood Carver, that allowed me to pay 1 less Wood once per turn for a room, improvement, fence or stable.  I ended up paying 1 Wood and 1 Reed to get my house back, but now I'm feeling a bit nervous that I can't have it both ways.  Either the post-Mind-the-Jets action is a real renovation or it isn't.  Can something like the Wood Carver really provide a discount for rebuilding an incinerated wooden house if we have ruled that to be a special, unique and exceptional free action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bonus question: is it possible that I'm taking Agricola: The Goodies a little bit too seriously?  Surely not!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T23:50:28.627" Title="Here Come The Warm Jets" Tags="|agricola|agricola-goodies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2011-07-03T06:09:46.373" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've actually seem some rather nice setups for storing Dominion cards on BoardGameGeek.  The standard I've seen is using card dividers and storing the cards in one of the original boxes with the insert removed.  Here are a few of the examples I've seen of what that looks like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One Game box containing multiple sets:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1008602/dominion&quot;&gt;Example Picture 1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1008603/dominion&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1008604/dominion&quot;&gt;3&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1008605/dominion&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternative Example with One Game Box:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/961211/dominion&quot;&gt;Example Picture&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using two game boxes:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1023075/dominion&quot;&gt;Example Picture 1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1023076/dominion&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything in one box, and a box for 5-6 player &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1014264/emteedee&quot;&gt;Example Picture &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using just a what appears to be a random box:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/971337/dominion&quot;&gt;Picture 1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/971336/dominion&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending how many expansions you have, will depend on how big a box you end up needing.  If you're planning to get all of the current expansions, it looks like you'll run out of room if you're using just one game box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T11:37:57.130" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T11:37:57.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4080" CreationDate="2011-07-03T15:42:41.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to help this is to think about it backwards, so you have 8 periods of blinds (15 minutes x 4 x 2 hours) and let's assume 8 players, 100 chips each.  So, ideally, you want one player eliminated each period.  What's a high-enough blind to encourage play?  Try 10-1 or 20-1.  With 10-1, the last period will have 2 players, each with 400 chips, so that's a big blind of 40.  The second to last, has 3 players with ~260 chips each, that's a big blind of 26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 11 12 16 20 26 40 is therefore the mathematical progression (which we'd tweak to 5, 10, 12, 16, 20, 30, 40 for poker sanity and ease).  This is quite aggressive, so feel free to tweak the ratio.  Still, it should give you a method for determining good numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T15:42:41.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-03T17:56:42.463" Score="24" ViewCount="3146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan has a lot of public knowledge.  For example, a player cannot hide how many resource cards or development cards they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of the following public knowledge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size of the bank&lt;/strong&gt;: are players allowed to pick up the stack of remaining wheat and count them?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trades&lt;/strong&gt;: are two players allowed to trade in a way that no one else knows what was traded?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discarded cards&lt;/strong&gt;: if a player rolls a 7 and has to discard resources, do they have to state what they're discarding, or are they allowed to sneakily put down cards in hopes that no one saw them?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T07:12:06.767" Title="Public knowledge in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4134" CreationDate="2011-07-03T19:05:14.763" Score="10" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played much Arkham Horror, but from what I've seen it's important to have a balanced team of investigators. &lt;strong&gt;What key attributes need to be represented by the team as a whole to have at least a fighting chance at survival?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in my first game I played a &quot;street sweeper&quot; who basically hung out in the streets all game mowing down monsters and clearing paths for others; however, I didn't have any magical items so there were some monsters I really had no chance against without some help or a special item. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, to what extent are the particulars of a balanced team impacted by individual player's styles, any expansion packs in the mix, and which dark one you've drawn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T20:26:17.183" Title="What should be considered in constructing a balanced team of investigators?" Tags="|openings|arkham-horror|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4133" CreationDate="2011-07-03T20:26:17.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, the most important thing is to have the ability to deal with monsters that are in the way without having significant delays. Whether that is being able to effectively sneak past things or just kill them outright. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to jump around to locations to pick up clues to seal, you want to make sure you can get to locations and not have (sealing critical) people sit in the streets or stay in the same location because they can't deal with the baddie that is sitting in the streets. Similarly, it is frequently worthwhile to have a monster beater rush a gate (and get sucked through) just to clear the way for someone with the ability to seal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, that it's important to make sure there's someone in Arkham that can deal with monsters in a pinch should the regular monster beater be unavailable (healing, in an OW, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much everyone can gather clues equally well, and fully healed people with a health of 5/5 are more likely to survive the OW trip (although it's important to remember that they may have to fight something during their trip, so you don't want them completely defenseless), and there really aren't many people that can't make either the Fight or Lore check to close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that though, it's always nice having someone that starts with some money to pass around if healing cash is needed in a pinch. Having at least one Magical and Physical weapon to deal with things is nice (Although depending on the expansion, you may want to tote around spells). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this can be greatly affected by with AO that is in play. If Shub is on the board, you'll need really good monster fighters to not have the game slow to a crawl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T20:26:17.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4132" CreationDate="2011-07-03T22:43:26.580" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my experience that when players trade, the player who's turn it is asks for resources or offers them.  The other players will then respond to the proposed trade however they see fit.  All this information is done publicly and other players  may offer a better trade to undercut another player.  There isn't anything in the rules about trading having to be done publicly, but it's the only way I've seen the game played.  Also, if you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playcatan.com/&quot;&gt;play the game online on the games official website&lt;/a&gt;, all trades are offered publicly by a player requesting a resource, and the results of that trade is shown to all users.  The same goes for if the player chooses to trade with the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the size of a players hand is public knowledge, (that is declared explicitly in the rules) when they discard cards, how many cards they've discarded is also public knowledge.  You can watch them return the cards to the bank, and make a accurate educated guess of how many cards of each type are returned.  Thus, while it's not in the rules for them to declare how much of what they're discarding, it's easy to guess most times.  On the online version of the game, that information is offered to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, how many cards are left in the bank is something that is mentioned in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is not enough of a given resource in the supply to fulfill everyone’s production, then no one receives any of that resource during that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, during resource production, a count of how many resources are left in the bank of a particular type should be made if it looks like there will be a shortage.  I can't find reference in the rules if there are other times when the resource should be counted, but there is nothing in the rules saying you can't do it either.  However, in the official online implementation of the game, that information is NOT offered to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2011-07-03T22:43:26.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4132" CreationDate="2011-07-04T08:39:34.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discarded cards:&lt;/strong&gt; if a player rolls a 7 and has to discard resources, do they have to state what they're discarding, or are they allowed to sneakily put down cards in hopes that no one saw them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;- Players do not have to state what they are discarding, they must only show that they are discarding the right number of cards.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1490" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T08:39:34.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2011-07-04T14:57:27.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use zip-lock bags for nearly all my boardgames that have cards. Tuck-boxes are better, admittedly, but zip lock bags work much better than magic tape or rubber bands. I typically use the &quot;snack bag&quot; or &quot;sandwich bag&quot; size of zip-lock baggies you can get in the grocery store, because they're cost effective in that format. Rectangular shaped ones are probably better, but the price per unit and convenient availability of them is not so good. Agricola in particular, I seem to remember, came with a bunch of rectangular shaped baggies (or I got a supply of them from somewhere at the same time as the game) so it, in particular, has all the decks separated by type and in rectangular zip-lock baggies sized roughly appropriate for that size of card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T14:57:27.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-07-04T18:53:24.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred way to play is &lt;strong&gt;having 2 resource productions before each player's turn&lt;/strong&gt;, which will come close to halving the length of the game. This takes out most of the waiting, because you will almost always be building something new every single turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is that its harder to get rid of your resources before a robber hits as you have to 'survive' twice as many potential times where a 7 might come up and make you discard. To balance this, you could allow an 'intermediary building phase' at the end of every player's turn where all players are allowed to build, but are only allowed to trade with the active player (this is how the 5-6 player expansion works). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to make the game quicker, you can eliminate the concept of turns altogether and let everyone build and trade at once after a designated number of resource productions happen, but this will make for a bit more chaos as players race to get the best trades and build a settlement in a choice spot as they no longer have to wait their turn before doing so. However, if your group likes a tenser, fast-paced game it's worth a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer to use a deck of cards with the same probabilities instead of rolling dice. Its a lot faster just to draw the top card of the deck, and its a ton more flexible because you can choose to go through the entire deck before reshuffling, so each number is guaranteed to come up a certain number of times. If your group doesn't having to randomly discard resources a lot, just remove a 7 or two from the deck. IMHO this adds a fair bit more strategy and flexibility that makes the game more enjoyable. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-07-04T18:53:24.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4132" CreationDate="2011-07-05T07:12:06.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that trades are done face down, and so if you do something like &quot;I'll trade you two resources for a brick&quot; only the traders know what the brick was traded for. Also cards are traded face down, and if you want to rapidly stop people from trading with you a good tactic is to trade something other than what you said you were going to trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T07:12:06.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2011-07-05T07:22:11.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pulled the insert from one box, and put each set of 10 cards into a snack sized ziplock. My dominion box holds Dominion and Intrigue this way; I could probably fit a third if I got more card-sized baggies. Since this makes for easily grabbed sleeved cardsets, I can simply random grab-n-go for play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T07:22:11.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4142" CreationDate="2011-07-05T08:10:37.883" Score="11" ViewCount="1220" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Containment Specialist role card says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you enter a city with 2 or more cubes of the same color, remove 1 cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played yesterday with the mutation purple disease, and had a city with two red and two purple cubes.  When the Containment Specialist entered that city we weren't sure whether we could remove one cube in total, or one cube of each colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the instance, we opted to allow the removal of one of each colour, but still ended up losing because we ran out of cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How many cubes should we have removed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T11:14:41.107" Title="How many cubes can the containment specialist remove in Pandemic On The Brink" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4141" CreationDate="2011-07-05T11:14:41.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;One cube from each disease with 2 or more cubes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;On the Brink&quot; rulebook states this on page 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are multiple diseases with 2 or more cubes present, remove 1 cube from each such disease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T11:14:41.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4147" CreationDate="2011-07-05T22:15:06.870" Score="18" ViewCount="1216" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin Zombies, the Grabby Guts card says &quot;You have one extra Hand&quot;, but in the bottom right corner, it says &quot;-1 Hand&quot;.  Shouldn't it say &quot;+1 Hand&quot; in the corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:37:38.543" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:37:38.543" Title="Is there a mis-print on the Grabby Guts card?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-05T23:27:08.490" Score="11" ViewCount="1924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Arkham Horror about 2 months ago and have played 2 practice rounds by myself. I'm confident I know all the rules and understand the game well enough to be able to explain them. However, I love the atmosphere in Arkham, and I really want to give my first time players the best possible experience and make the it more than just a game to them, but a role-playing experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've figured out that I'm going to run the game as a sort of dungeon-master. I'm still going to play, but I will take charge of reading the mythos and encounter cards, and will frequently sprinkle in some actual description of what is happening. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As you walk into Ma's Boarding House, the terrible sinking feeling of evil you've been feeling fades away as you see the good friends of yours that have stuck it out thus far. However, you can't help feeling a terrible regret that you will eventually have to leave the shelter of this kind place and go back into the cruel world beyond it's doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You tried to evade the fire vampire as it passed by sneaking into an alleyway and lying down next to a dumpster, but it was able to feel the fear beating in your heart and quickly turned to look at you with a gaze that penetrated far deeper than just your eyes and unleashes a blinding ball of fire at you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like its these bits of flavor text that really make the game 'come alive'. However, I've been considering taking things a bit further and giving the players some choices that they wouldn't have if we were just playing strait Arkham Horror:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(I draw an encounter card to see what&#xA;  would happen if the player decides to&#xA;  have an encounter). As you as you walk&#xA;  up to the door of the Silver Twilight&#xA;  Lodge, you start to feel incredibly&#xA;  insignificant as you stare at the&#xA;  arched doorway and the tall spires&#xA;  atop the roof. Do you go in, or try to&#xA;  gather more information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(player) I'll try to get some more&#xA;  information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Me) Okay, what does your investigator&#xA;  do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(player) uh...Put my ear to the door&#xA;  and listen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Me, narrating) You can discern one&#xA;  voice in the distance, possible&#xA;  conducting a ceremony. However, it is&#xA;  far and distant, and you might be able&#xA;  to use the distraction to snoop around&#xA;  a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(player converses with friends) I think I'll open the door carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;etc. etc. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone here ran a game of AH like this, giving players more options than the game normally would (Perhaps they might get a combat bonus if they were able to use water against the fire vampire in the previous description...)? I've played D&amp;amp;D, but I've never really been the DM before. I'm considering &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Tide_of_Serpents&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;playing a scenario like this one&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to enhance the experience and give me a bit of structure to build off of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other advice about creating a good role-playing experience in AH, or general advice about introducing people to the game? I'll gladly read and up-vote any suggestions or shared experiences. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T23:49:23.223" Title="What can I do to ensure that my friends' first game of Arkham Horror with me is as awesome as possible?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4129" CreationDate="2011-07-05T23:50:28.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules posted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/35951/official-rules-sheet-to-go-with-your-x-deck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your home is destroyed, its spaces count as “unused” and your family sleeps under the stars until it is rebuilt. You must take a Renovate action to renovate to a new Wooden hut.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that it's not a free action. I don't have an official ruling on Wood Carver, but I'd say that it would apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2011-07-05T23:50:28.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4144" CreationDate="2011-07-06T01:23:37.720" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little counter-intuitive, but &quot;-1 Hand&quot; is actually correct.  You aren't allowed to use more than 2 hands-worth of items; to check this, you can add up the number of &quot;hands&quot; on all your used items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two 1-hand items, &quot;1 hand&quot; + &quot;1 hand&quot; = &quot;2 hands&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have two 1-hand items, plus Grabby Guts, you'll have &quot;1 hand&quot; + &quot;1 hand&quot; + &quot;-1 hand&quot; = &quot;1 hand&quot;, leaving you with one hand left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T01:23:37.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-07-06T02:57:35.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend a soundtrack of creepy music, played at lower-than-normal volume, so it lurks just at the threshold of the players' awareness.  You don't need to run Arkham Horror as a full-on tabletop roleplaying experience to create an atmosphere (though if you feel up to it, I definitely think you should go for it!)... just a little extra attention to detail and atmospherics can instantly get the players into the right frame of mind to have a memorably sanity-blasting evening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'd say dim the lights too, but Arkham Horror probably has a lot of text that people will need to pore over, I don't want to permanently ruin everyone's eyesight!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T02:57:35.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-07-06T03:43:35.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a novice player (I've played once with friends, some of whom had no prior experience either), one thing about Arkham Horror that was something of a challenge was figuring out what was possible or advisable (or both). One advantage to running an RPG-ish version of AH is that you can actually take some of that burden off the players, depending on how you want to run the game. Rather than letting newcomers getting bogged down in how-many-spaces-is-X-from-Y, narrating it can help them decide what they actually want to do ... it might be easier to say &quot;That looked like a smallish shape, I'll see if I can track it down&quot; than to say &quot;Which of these is weaker, do you think? And should I try to purchase another item? Or where did you want me to go again? Which gate?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you'll definitely need is &lt;strong&gt;time&lt;/strong&gt;! If you can book an entire evening, you'll have more time to spend on the atmosphere and the narration. Get them interested in the background as well as the gameplay, and chances are good they will come back for more. (We haven't scheduled another session yet, but that's been more of a time issue than anything else.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T03:43:35.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-07-06T03:50:14.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done something similar for some of the games of AH that I've been in. Not to the extent of adding theme/flavor into the cards and allowing playing input during encounters though; I only read encounters and mythos cards for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start off, I'd be wary about pulling out all the stops to create an involved role-playing AH experience for a group's first game. Even if there is someone present that knows all the rules, there will still be rule misunderstandings, one-off nuances that need consideration, and re-explanations requested, which will break the thematic stride that you're striving to establish. But more importantly, (and this partially depends on how large the group is) games can take a long time. My group has played Arkham at least a hundred times (sounds a bit ridiculous to me, but we've been playing over 4 years), and we still have games that run into the 4+ hour mark. This can be a bit long for new players that don't know what they're getting into, and inundating the game with extra theme (along with this being people's first game) will only make the play time longer. My advice would be to get your friends to enjoy the game and understand gameplay better before going for a fully immersive experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all said, here's what I did when I ran as the 'Keeper'. The first thing that ruins Arkham for new players (besides game length) is how vicious the game has the potential to become. I've found that a nice way to control the difficulty of the game is by drawing two or three mythos cards rather than one every turn, and the pick the one you'll put into play. This helps prevent the same gate from monster surging 4 times in a row and flooding the streets with things the players can't handle, as well as allowing you to give the game a quick boost by throwing the players a curveball if they're doing too well (drawing someone through a gate, destroying some clues on the board, moving some monsters directly in the path someone was planning on taking, etc.) In the future, it could also allow you a little leeway in picking headlines to enact if you're looking for a thematic progression. You can do the same for Arkham or OW encounters as well. For the encounters, one way of working towards the RP experience with going to the full extent that you described (allowing the players to invent their own responses) is to not tell the players what happens should they pass/fail until after they've rolled/spent clue tokens. In my group however, I've noticed that this can irritate some players. After they've played a number of games where they know the entirety of the encounter before making the check, they aren't keen to give up that slight advantage for some extra perceived theme. Anyways...&#xA;You could even do the same with monsters; pick specific monsters that you want to throw at people. McGlen have a particularly close match against a Shuggoth earlier? Now there's one back for round 2! It's also a good way to make sure the board isn't flooded with particularly weak/strong things and ensure that the Dhole gets his requisite board time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenarios that were released for the Arkham League are good for a continuous campaign of sorts; the 'stories' from one game to the next are loosely tied together, but that's about it for theme. There are some extra gameplay conditions that the scenarios will throw in there, but that may just confuse new players if they expect those rules to be in subsequent games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, make sure your friends enjoy the game for what it is before adding things to it (helping them to realize this if necessary of course...). All of the flavor and theme in the world won't make someone enjoy this game if they just don't like the mechanics in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T03:50:14.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4156" CreationDate="2011-07-06T18:41:48.240" Score="15" ViewCount="99856" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic: The Gathering, are enchantments and artifacts considered spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More precisely, can I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227225&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; (which says &quot;Counter target spell.&quot;) on an enchantment or an artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T18:58:45.607" LastActivityDate="2019-11-08T14:06:47.940" Title="Are enchantments and artifacts considered spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4154" CreationDate="2011-07-06T18:44:45.697" Score="23" ViewCount="33600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a card named &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202635&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dissipation Field&lt;/a&gt; that reads, &amp;quot;Whenever a permanent deals damage to you, return it to its owner's hand.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent attacks me with a creature with infect (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205477&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cystbearer&lt;/a&gt;) while I control a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202635&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dissipation Field&lt;/a&gt;, does his creature return to his hand after combat damage is dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T14:03:27.820" Title="Does Infect count as damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4153" CreationDate="2011-07-06T19:04:43.103" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The damage is still damage, and any triggered abilities based on damage will trigger. The only thing different is the effects of the damage, since you gain poison counters instead of losing life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1504" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T19:04:43.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4152" CreationDate="2011-07-06T19:07:06.067" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Of all the card types, the only one that isn't a spell are lands. &quot;Counter target spell&quot; can counter sorceries, instants, enchantments, artifacts, creatures, and planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tribal is also a card type, but it always shows up in conjunction with one of the other types, so it doesn't matter in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1504" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T19:07:06.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4152" CreationDate="2011-07-06T20:29:18.147" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you asked for some citations from the official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. As the first step of being cast (see&#xA;  rule 601, “Casting Spells”), the card&#xA;  becomes a spell and is moved to the&#xA;  top of the stack from the zone it was&#xA;  in, which is usually its owner’s hand.&#xA;  (See rule 405, “Stack.”) A spell&#xA;  remains on the stack as a spell until&#xA;  it resolves (see rule 608, “Resolving&#xA;  Spells and Abilities”), is countered&#xA;  (see rule 701.5), or otherwise leaves&#xA;  the stack. For more information, see&#xA;  section 6, “Spells, Abilities, and&#xA;  Effects.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, pretty much every card in Magic is a &quot;spell&quot; - or rather, becomes one, during the transitional period from being a card in your hand to  being a permanent on the battlefield.  But wait!  Why isn't a land a spell, in that case?  Well, because it has special rules making it an exceptional case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.1. A player who has priority may play a land card from his or her hand&#xA;  during a main phase of his or her turn&#xA;  when the stack is empty. Playing a&#xA;  land is a special action; it doesn’t&#xA;  use the stack (see rule 115). Rather,&#xA;  the player simply puts the land onto&#xA;  the battlefield. Since the land&#xA;  doesn’t go on the stack, it is never a&#xA;  spell, and players can’t respond to it&#xA;  with instants or activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Magic rules are pretty arcane at the best of times (appropriately enough), but I hope that clarifies things for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Actually, it occurs to me that even more clarification &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be necessary.  Enchantments and artifacts aren't spells when they're in play: they're permanents.  They aren't spells when they're in their hand, they're enchantment cards and artifact cards.  But they are spells while on the stack (i.e. in the process of being cast).  I'm sure you already know that &quot;counter target spell&quot; means &quot;stop something on the stack from resolving and becoming a permanent, and send the card to the graveyard instead&quot;, but it wasn't 100% explicit from your question!  So, just in case there's any doubt at all, Cancel &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; stop an artifact or enchantment card from coming into play, but it &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; send it to the graveyard from play, or anything wacky like that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-07-06T22:03:37.257" LastActivityDate="2011-07-06T22:03:37.257" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4161" CreationDate="2011-07-08T06:56:11.557" Score="19" ViewCount="56351" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Beginner's Scenario:  I castle kingside prior to ever being in check. Then, my son positions his queen and on a subsequent turn, takes out the middle pawn of three (see diagram below), thus exposing my king, and declares &quot;checkmate&quot;.  Is this a legal move on his part? Or, may I take out his queen with my king?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EsT3x.png&quot; alt=&quot;our gameboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1511" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T05:07:01.060" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T06:26:37.863" Title="Can a king capture an opposing queen?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4158" CreationDate="2011-07-08T07:17:25.037" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can capture the Queen, unless capturing the Queen would put the King under check again. See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_chess#Check&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_chess#Check&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T07:17:25.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4158" CreationDate="2011-07-08T09:04:31.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely legal, and it's checkmate if the Queen is guarded, since the King won't be able to capture it then.  If there is nothing protecting the Queen, then the King can just capture it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T09:04:31.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4158" CreationDate="2011-07-08T13:48:05.203" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player may LEGALLY move his queen anywhere on the board that the queen can reach on its move, unless that move exposes the player's own king to check (e.g. if the queen is &quot;pinned&quot; in front of the king by an opposing piece). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legal moves ordinarily include moving the queen next to the opposing (your) king, which puts that king in check, given the possible movement of the queen on the FOLLOWING move. It also puts the other player's queen into potential jeopardy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your king is in check, you must try to move out of check. Often, that means moving the king, but in this case, it doesn't work, because the queen controls all the squares AROUND your king, meaning he'd still be in check if he moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, your only possible recourse is to TRY to capture the opposing queen. If it's unguarded, you may be home &quot;free.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the queen is GUARDED, meaning your nephew can take your king after he takes the queen, your king is in &quot;checkmate&quot; and you have lost the game. I infer from your nephew's declaration of &quot;checkmate&quot; that the queen is guarded. (It's possible that he's wrong, so I'd need to see the chessboard or a written record of the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-07-08T13:48:05.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-08T06:45:11.817" Score="7" ViewCount="2008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing a roster editor and it would be very helpful if there's something like Magic the Gathering's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; but for Warhammer 40,000 models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like: &lt;code&gt;http://www.site.com/?model=Ork+Boyz&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1538" OwnerDisplayName="mcandre" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T04:13:10.703" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T04:13:10.703" Title="Is there an API to find Warhammer 40K model pictures by name?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4162" CreationDate="2011-07-09T01:45:10.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sincerely doubt there is, at least not officially.  I've been playing Games Workshop games for the past 15 years, and their protection of intellectual property has gotten pretty severe in the past couple of years.  Just do a Google search for &quot;Games Workshop sues&quot; and see all the fun that auto-complete brings up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&amp;amp;pIndex=3&amp;amp;aId=3900002&amp;amp;start=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Legal Page&lt;/a&gt;, Bandwidth Theft and Mirroring Resources section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We do not tolerate deep linking to the pictures, images, PDFs or other downloads on our website. Such activity is bandwidth theft. Also, do not mirror the resources that we have on our websites. So, if you want other people to see the materials that we have produced, please use a simple HTML link to the relevant web page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from the Online Auctions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do not use our trademarks in relation to products that are not owned by or originate from Games Workshop (see Making Terrain above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am not a lawyer, but between Privateer Press, Chapterhouse Studios, the TalkFantasyFootball forums, etc., etc., I would be very careful in what you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T01:45:10.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4145" CreationDate="2011-07-09T23:49:23.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, there is an amazing condensed rule sheet at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.headlesshollow.com/freebies_games.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.headlesshollow.com/freebies_games.html&lt;/a&gt;. Page 2-3 will help you to quickly explain the rules (use the official rulebook for examples and clarification). I printed multiple copies of page 12, so other players could easily reference them. The last couple pages help to simplify game mechanics by putting them on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played with a soundtrack off of groveshark while playing. Some of the existing playlists are excellent, and occasionally the music will change as a monster surge occurs, an epic battle, or devastating mythos card. This adds to the sense of urgency, madness, and the overall feeling that the game is malign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing with new players, I usually choose Azathoth. Sure, the instant defeat is daunting, but he has very limited power during gameplay (plus you skip battling the ancient one until people have mastered the check system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is make sure that you have the check system down perfectly and can quickly determine the number of dice needed, number of sucesses, etc. Tell the player that they need to roll X dice and get Y 5s or 6s (and adjust what you say for curses and blessings). This also helps if you can get other experienced players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1519" LastActivityDate="2011-07-09T23:49:23.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-07-10T04:35:06.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Historically, chess was useful for teaching young military leaders that rushing straight at your opponent is (unless you have overwhelming force) not terribly wise, as you may fall into unforeseen traps.  Better to gain skill from practice (understanding likely patterns and how to act accordingly), plan carefully, see deeper than the opponent, play the opponent rather than merely the game.  The complexity of chess makes it useful to think in more generalizable strategic terms rather than the particular game-specific tactics of a simpler game.  An inability to see very far ahead resembles the &quot;fog of war.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As war can be a useful metaphor for many other competitive activities, such as sports, business, or politics, one might find at least an introductory familiarity with chess to be a good teacher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1520" LastEditorUserId="1520" LastEditDate="2011-07-10T04:49:02.167" LastActivityDate="2011-07-10T04:49:02.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4169" CreationDate="2011-07-11T07:16:00.687" Score="26" ViewCount="46923" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose Player 1 has a Dragon on the table and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnsummon%5d&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; in hand, while Player 2 has two Spiders on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 chooses to attack with the Dragon and Player 2 chooses to block with one of the Spiders.  Before combat damage is to be dealt, Player 1 uses Unsummon on the blocking Spider.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does Player 2 take any life damage from the attacking Dragon?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1421" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-18T12:37:46.267" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T12:50:02.247" Title="If a blocking creature leaves the battlefield, is the attacker still blocked, or will it damage the opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2011-07-11T09:54:33.023" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player takes no damage as the Dragon remains blocked. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_blockers_step&quot;&gt;the Comprehensive Rules for the Declare Blockers step&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1h&lt;/strong&gt; An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. &lt;strong&gt;A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Exception is, when the attacking creature has trample. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Keyword_ability&quot;&gt;the Comprehensive Rules for Keyword Abilities&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.19c&lt;/strong&gt; If an attacking creature with trample is blocked, but there are no creatures blocking it when damage is assigned, all its damage&#xA;  is assigned to the player or planeswalker it's attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1413" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T04:45:15.693" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T04:45:15.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-07-11T11:42:43.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the setup phase, place a settlement first, and then a city second. This is one of the common changes that many of the longer adaptations feature and it just helps you get going quicker at the slower/earlier stages of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1525" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T11:42:43.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4196" CreationDate="2011-07-11T13:06:08.030" Score="8" ViewCount="3014" Body="&lt;p&gt;England, being an island, has an enviable defensive position. This same fact makes it hard for it to get a foothold on the European Continent, where most of the remaining 31 supply centers lie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three countries that immediately block England's expansion: Russia, Germany, and France. England will inevitably end up fighting at least one of those countries, possibly with the help of one or both of the other two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia blocks the way to Scandinavia, Germany opposes England in the Low Countries and the center of the Continental Europe, France stands in the way of expansion via the Mid-Atlantic, the Iberian Peninsula, and ultimately the Mediterranean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;England is one country I've never played. How does England decide on target supply centers, and by implication, whom to fight? Does it depend on what is going on elsewhere on the board (e.g. the Mediterranean)? Does it depend on the caliber and personalities of the people playing the other three countries? Will other countries flock to seek alliances with England to create a balance of power? Or will it be mostly ignored, since it is an island, and have to &quot;go it&quot; alone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T13:12:01.093" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T23:39:50.253" Title="In Diplomacy, How Would England Identify Its First Target?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4173" CreationDate="2011-07-11T17:31:47.823" Score="9" ViewCount="85359" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if I draw a 4 (move 4 spaces backward) and the only piece that could make the move is in my &quot;safe zone&quot;, do I have to make the move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1527" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:17:09.233" LastActivityDate="2017-07-09T15:41:46.683" Title="In Sorry, can I be forced to move out of my &quot;safe zone&quot;?" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4172" CreationDate="2011-07-11T17:45:51.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/sorry.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a PDF version of the rules&lt;/a&gt;, you are required to move if a legal move is available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... if at any time you can move, you must move, even if it's to your disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and from the description of the Safety Zone, moving backward out of the zone is legal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... however, a pawn may move backward out of its SAFETY ZONE and on subsequent turns move back into the ZONE as cards permit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that trading places on an 11 is an exception to this - you may decline to switch places with another pawn if you like - but yes, in your situation, you must move a pawn out of your safety zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T11:06:02.533" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T11:06:02.533" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:00:05.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make trades that favor your opponents in the earlygame, delaying your first expansion until your opponents have built their first 1-2 settlements or cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on a clay-light wood-heavy board, sell clay for 1-2 wood. You'll come out behind, but bad players won't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your opponents get a production advantage, you can safely take off the kid gloves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T19:58:12.290" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T19:58:12.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4177" CreationDate="2011-07-11T18:30:12.210" Score="6" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got an expansion for a semi-popular board game that my friends and I have been having a lot of fun with.  I was wondering if I could package and sell the expansion to the game without consent from the original publisher.  I know I'd need to create all of my own materials (artwork, text, etc.) but I wasn't sure if I could market it as &quot;Third party expansion to X&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any pitfalls I should be wary of?  I don't want to rip off the company or cause problems with them, but ideally I wouldn't need to have a lot of contact with them either (since they may not like it, even if it is perfectly legal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1529" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T14:22:46.310" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T13:07:07.370" Title="Can I sell a third party expansion?" Tags="|expansions|legal|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2011-07-11T19:36:41.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The artwork and language may be copyrighted so at a minimum you'd have to create your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do is call them up and see if they are willing to license their product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some will, some won't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.publicknowledge.org/blog/settlers-catan-makes-legal-threats-can-it-bac&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one good link.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-07-11T20:58:54.517" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T20:58:54.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2011-07-11T19:57:01.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There will be very different answers to your questions depending on where you plan to sell your expansion. I think Europe in general is much more restrictive about mentioning trademarks without explicit permission than for example North America. You'll probably want to consult a lawyer before going ahead with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-07-11T19:57:01.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4180" CreationDate="2011-07-11T23:21:44.050" Score="10" ViewCount="42466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found out one of my friends has Diplomacy and wants to play. He's never played before, and neither have I, nor anyone else in the group. I'm confident I can explain the rules, but I don't really know a lot about the strategy as I've never actually played. I'll be able to convey the general strategies, like backstabbing at key times and making sure to make their key borders as well protected as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't really know what to do about the strategies for specific country, and I think we'd all enjoy it more if I didn't end up advising them what to do due to time constraints and its opposition to the spirit of the game. Ideally, I want everyone to be as independent as possible, meaning not relying on other players for their strategies and moves because I think that's more how it was meant to be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of some &lt;strong&gt;brief&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning a few paragraphs long, descriptions of strategy for playing each country? Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germany&lt;/strong&gt;: Since you are in the center of the board, you will be in the middle of many other countries' way. Try to make alliances with 1 or 2 of them so you won't be fighting on all sides. [country] is most likely to attack you in [place] because it's critical to their expansion and future development, so watch for this early in the game. If you make friends with Italy, the two of you can proceed to conquer this area of the board and quickly grow in strength...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your ideal alliances would be with A and B, but if A refuses then you can do this to minimize your vulnerability...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, I know nothing about diplomacy yet, so I don't know exactly how the game develops. But if I could give each player a piece of paper with some advice on it for certain situations, I think it could help a lot, especially in the beginning with answering the question 'what they heck do I do?!?!'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of some good brief summaries that I can give each player to help them get off to as good a start as possible? Naturally these would be kept secret from other players and I wouldn't read any before-hand except for the one for the country I'm playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:13:15.553" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T23:39:36.350" Title="Basic strategies for each country in Diplomacy" Tags="|diplomacy|teaching|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2011-07-12T01:49:02.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As England, I would determine my first target the same way as I do for any other country I'm playing. I would talk to the other six (yes all six are important) players, to try to get a feel of what is happening on the board, who is and who isn't likely to want to work with me and use this information to develop a strategy. It is possible to do well as England with any of France, Germany or Scandanavia as a first target. There is no royal road to success in Diplomacy (and the game would be boring if there was).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for something more useful: I'll give two internet resources that can guide you in your play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/home.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy Archive&lt;/a&gt; there is a collection of strategy articles on each country &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/strategy/england.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(eg England's is here)&lt;/a&gt;. This is a collection of articles by various authors that you may find useful reading. They are of varying quality so it can pay to read some of them over with a critical eye to see what ideas hold up to scrutiny. At the very least they'll give you an idea of the various points of view other players are likely to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another resource is &lt;a href=&quot;http://diplomacycast.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacycast&lt;/a&gt;. This is a podcast about the boardgame diplomacy. In their &lt;a href=&quot;http://diplomacycast.com/page.cfm?link=podcast&amp;amp;aid=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;first episode&lt;/a&gt;, they specifically discuss the play of England. Note two things. First this is long (at least 90 min), and secondly don't be put off by the audio quality, its their first attempt and the quality improves after the first two episodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget as England Norway is your natural neutral, and you have about an equal share together with France and Germany in Belgium. You will not be 'ignored' (cf last sentence of question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T01:49:02.717" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2011-07-12T02:20:24.840" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Gamers' Guide to Diplomacy has exactly the brief summaries you're looking for as well as much more. It's hard to get hold of so I put it online &lt;a href=&quot;http://petermc.net/diplomacy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. p7 of the 2nd pdf has the brief country by country summaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastEditorUserId="30898" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T23:39:36.350" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T23:39:36.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2011-07-12T03:30:17.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;0) I am not a lawyer. I am definitely not YOUR lawyer. I don't even play one on TV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) go read the circular on Trademark at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.uspto.gov/&quot;&gt;USPTO.gov&lt;/a&gt; website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Realize that, if you aren't in the US, you need to find the equivalent for wherever you are.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ic.gc.ca/eic/site/cipointernet-internetopic.nsf/eng/h_wr00002.html&quot;&gt;Canadian IPO&lt;/a&gt; — &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipo.gov.uk/tm.htm&quot;&gt;UK IPO&lt;/a&gt; — &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inpi.fr/&quot;&gt;French IP Agency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wipo.int/directory/en/urls.jsp&quot;&gt;Directory of Intellectual Property Offices&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Realize that anywhere you intentionally sell it, you have to obey their trademark laws, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) before doing anything commercially, hire a lawyer specializing in intellectual property law, and have him go over the risks and requirements with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, a 3rd party supplement can't use the distinguishing marks of the core game (TSR v. Mayfair), and can't use the unique phrases associated with the game, either. The closest I've seen to doing so that wasn't challenged nor licensed was &quot;Not a complete game; requires the use of &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;, by &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;.&quot; and &quot;For use with &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; and other &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; games.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T03:30:17.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4183" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-12T04:03:59.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag appears every now and then, when tags are deleted off of a question by automatic means.  It means what it says, and indicates that those questions need editing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons a tag can disappear are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One use Tags are deleted by a &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/48417/should-we-zap-the-low-occurrence-tags/48418#48418&quot;&gt;script&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Questions are migrated in from other sites and their tags don't exist on this site&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tags are deleted manually without cleaning up their questions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T13:46:36.257" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T04:58:57.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4184" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-12T04:03:59.167" Score="0" Body="This tag appears every now and then, when tags are deleted off of a question by automatic means.  It means what it says, and indicates that those questions need editing." OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-07-12T04:59:00.080" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T04:59:00.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2011-07-12T15:40:12.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak with regard to some of the other countries, but can answer specifically your questions about Germany, which I have some experience in playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany is tough to play, at least at the start, because it is surrounded by four countries on two sides. So it has to make an alliance with one party (E.g. with England vs. France, or vice-versa) and with Austria vs. Russia, or vice-versa, ON EACH SIDE. Then it has to ensure that the remaining countries, Italy and Turkey, either fight each other, or its enemies and not its allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason, the German player sometimes begins discussions with these two, and then works backward with its neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF IT SURVIVES, Germany's central position works to its advantage later in the game. There is a saying that whoever owns Munich wins the game (because it's hard to get to 18 without it.)  Germany STARTS with Munich. It will either lose it early (to France, Russia, or possibly Austria) or else it will become strong enough to defend Munich and central Europe generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the enemies have been reduced to one eastern and one western power, plus one or two in the Mediterranean, Germany can become the &quot;go to&quot; country for others, because it can do the most harm to anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-07-12T15:40:12.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3321" CreationDate="2011-07-13T03:11:52.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was an answer deleted that had a good link with a complete answer,  I'll repeat it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rookgame.com/2010/10/19/is-the-rook-game-similar-to-the-bridge-card-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Is the Rook Game Similar to the Bridge Card Game?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T03:11:52.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4175" CreationDate="2011-07-13T13:07:07.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the 90's, I remember seeing (and purchasing) several &quot;unauthorized&quot; expansions for Axis &amp;amp; Allies at GenCon. Some even had brand new plastic molded units. I can't imagine that anyone would go through that level of effort (both in quality and in renting a booth at GenCon) on an unauthorized expansion if they had any thought that MB/Hasbro would sue them. So as long as you give credit to the company that makes the game you are expanding and (as others have said) don't use any of their artwork, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2011-07-13T13:07:07.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4189" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4190" CreationDate="2011-07-13T20:41:56.300" Score="4" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Gosu (Goblin Supremacy), what do the numbers in parentheses on each card's description indicate?  For example:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(Justice) When Justice comes into play draw 3(+1) cards.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had been playing that the player with the Advantage token got to do the () actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T21:31:22.660" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T21:31:22.660" Title="What do the numbers in parentheses mean?" Tags="|gosu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4189" CreationDate="2011-07-13T22:04:14.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get the bonus if at least one other player has more victory points than you. I'm basing that on the description at the end of this unofficial &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/59745/gosu-1-page-rules-summary-english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules summary&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/59520/gosu-english-rules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rulebook is available online&lt;/a&gt;, but I seem to be missing the font for the text, so I can't read it to confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T14:36:11.933" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T14:36:11.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2011-07-14T19:22:16.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want even shorter summaries of each country's strategy, &lt;a href=&quot;http://pulsiphergames.com/diplomacy/StrategyinDiplomacy.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; has them. I have never played Diplomacy before, so I'm not sure how accurate the strategies are, but they are a quick read. Also, warning, Comic Sans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1534" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T19:22:16.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-14T21:14:11.207" Score="15" ViewCount="15497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about getting Agricola for a while, primarily due to how much the gaming world seems to love it. But I want to make absolutely sure that the investment will be worth it. Currently my Mom and I end up playing games together fairly frequently, just the 2 of us. Usually we play Dominion, Carcassone, or Blokus. When I saw it &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/212/board-games-for-two-players&quot;&gt;ranked highly in this thread for 2-&lt;/a&gt;, I realized that even if all of my other friends end up hating it, I'll still get to play with 2 people fairly often, making it well worth the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the main questions I'd like to pose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing time&lt;/strong&gt;. I've heard 1/2 hour per player from a wide variety of sources. Is this true? I don't care if our first several games take longer, but once we've played it 5+ times, will we be able to get through a game in an hour or less without rushing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aggressiveness&lt;/strong&gt;. Take this scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No aggression. You win by building yourself up faster than your opponent and rarely if ever do something that hurts them. Each turn you try to figure out what helps you the most. (Group Solitaire, Dominion with no attack cards)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Occasional aggression. You're trying to build yourself up, but putting down your opponent is often a good idea as well. You have to compromise between building yourself up and hurting your opponents.  (Dominion with attack cards, Puerto Rico, Citadels)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Frequent aggression. You're often trying to find out how to hurt your opponents as badly as possible, but it's not the entire goal of the game. Some fighting over resources. (Settlers of Catan, Carcasonne)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purely Aggression. The only way to win is by hurting your opponent. Each turn you try to figure out how to put your opponent in the worst position possible. (Chess, Risk)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do you think Agricola ranks on this scale? How 'aggressive' do you need to be to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complexity&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complexity of rules scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;blokus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ticket To Ride, Bohnanza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carcassone, Settlers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pandemic, Diplomacy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complexity of strategy scale:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go Fish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ticket To Ride, Bohnanza&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carcassone, Settlers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dominion, Puerto Rico&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess, Go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does Agricola rank on each of these? I know the scales aren't great, so feel more than free to add your own opinions and comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, what's your overall experience with Agricola as a 2-player game? Do you think it will work well for my Mom and I? Thanks!!! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T20:25:02.047" Title="Evaluating Agricola as a 2 player game: how long would it take, how competitive is it, complexity, etc." Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4193" CreationDate="2011-07-14T22:06:12.070" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola is an excellent two-player game. In fact, I find that I prefer the two player version of the game to higher numbers of players. I originally bought the game so I would have something less aggressive to play with my wife, and it works brilliantly for that purpose, both because of the game mechanics and because the theme is quite peaceful - Agricola is about building, not destroying or dominating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does take about 30 minutes per player, so yes, around an hour to play once you've got the hang of it is a reasonable estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agricola would probably be 'occasional aggression' on your scale. You are mostly concerned with improving your own farm, but there's a strong strategic element where you consider what actions you need to perform before your opponent. Usually it's more about making sure you get what you want, rather than deliberately trying to make your opponent's game harder, but you can definitely play it several ways. I know one friend who likes to try and deny animals to the other players, and constantly picks them up, even when he doesn't need them. What you tend to find though is that this type of behaviour is sub-optimal for your own game. In other words, if you concentrate on making your opponent's lives harder, you will have a tougher game yourself, because in general you will make less productive actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agricola is quite a complex game, if you play the full rules with the occupations and minor improvement cards. Your first few games will probably be quite overwhelming. I would rate it as a 5 on your scale without the cards, 6 with. It's as complicated as Arkham Horror, but in a different way. The rules are much more precise, in my opinion, so I found once I'd learnt the game I very rarely have to actually look anything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agricola is a pretty deep game. There are many different strategies, and one of the best features is that the random cards you draw each game often mean you are incentivised to play a strategy other than your preferred one. I have played Agricola hundreds of times, and it's one of the very few games in my collection that I don't really get bored with. It's &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more strategic than Carcassonne or Settlers of Catan. However, no game I know is as deep as chess, so I guess that makes it a 4 on your scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; If you like interesting board games, I don't see how you could not like this. There's a reason everyone loves Agricola. And for the amount of replayability this game holds, I think it is excellent value for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T22:06:12.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4193" CreationDate="2011-07-14T22:08:37.640" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing Time:&lt;/strong&gt; I think with practice, a 1 hour game of Agricola is certainly possible, if you don't think every decision to death &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you work out a quick way to restock the supply! But I think you'll be (or at least &lt;strong&gt;feel&lt;/strong&gt; like you are) rushing. Especially with setup and teardown. I've played 4 player games in 2 hours, but it doesn't scale precisely. 1 hour games of the &quot;family&quot; version I think are quite within reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aggressiveness:&lt;/strong&gt; 2 - Occasional aggression. Aggression in Agricola (like most action-selection games) is in opportunity denial. I've seen varying degrees of aggression win. It also can boil down to which combinations of minor improvements and / or occupations occur in a given hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complexity:&lt;/strong&gt; 5- Puerto Rico. I think it's very comparable to PR in complexity. If you don't have PR, I would highly recommend it as a 2 player as well (there is an official 2-player variant from the designer). As in PR, the complexity comes from the tradeoffs that various decisions demand and from the emergent effects of multiple improvements, etc.. It should be noted that complexity goes up as the game progresses, because more actions are made available each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complexity of Strategy:&lt;/strong&gt; 4 - Dominion, Puerto Rico. Frankly, I think that Dominion and Puerto Rico are in different leagues, but I'm a Dominion noob, so pay no attention to me on that score! The point is that Agricola has a lot of the same goals as PR - you have to pick a strategy but you have to be flexible. Agricola punishes specialists with negative points, but rewards high accumulation of any one thing. So every decision has rippling implications. You want to emphasize your strengths and minimize your weaknesses, just like in PR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love Agricola as a 2-player game. My wife and son and I used to play it in 2s and 3s all the time. But it just didn't hold up at my house under the onslaught of games like Dungeon Lords, Galaxy Trucker, and London, so it doesn't hit the table as much as it used to. Will you like it? Will your mom? I have no idea! Does your mom like challenging games? Or is Ticket to Ride her limit for the length of a rulebook? I &lt;strong&gt;think&lt;/strong&gt; you'll like it - but my mom would hate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a FLGS you can go to and play it? If not, try moving! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-07-14T22:08:37.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4171" CreationDate="2011-07-15T00:29:42.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Diplomacy openings for any country are usually of one of two types&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to be a leader.  This usually means coming up with a bold joint opening and try to negotiate the other player to follow along.  For England, this might be trying to take Brest in 1901, or trying to bounce Germany out of Denmark.  Some players are more likely to work with you when you have a concrete plan, especially one that offers the potential for big early gains, and you might be able to make a good long-term ally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wait and see.  This means make a safe opening (like bouncing in the Channel), go for your natural neutrals (Norway), try to negotiate fairly neutrally with everyone, and see how 1901 goes.  Maybe you find someone that you get along with really well, and you want to ally with them going forward.  Maybe some other player makes a bold move, or a big mistake, and you want to adjust to capitalize on it.  This is typically safer, but can backfire if your opponents are both looking for early action, and interpret your neutrality as an invitation to get action at your expense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way can work.  The one thing you should NOT do as England (or anyone else) is ignore people (or let them ignore you).  Corner countries don't stay that way for long, and if you aren't talking with people, you have no chance of making a deal with them.  England can get boxed in if you try to rely too much on your corner position, and you can't defend the island against a concerted attack for very long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T00:29:42.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4215" CreationDate="2011-07-15T13:19:36.007" Score="5" ViewCount="4158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Russia, which gets an extra piece, is in some ways the most powerful country in Diplomacy. It is also one of the most vulnerable, insofar as it is surrounded by four potentially hostile countries. (Only Germany and Austria-Hungary is in such bad shape in this regard, an important fact for this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Three Emperors' Alliance between Russia, Germany and Austria was originally started by GERMANY's Bismarck (in real life). But as the strongest of the three, perhaps Russia could be the greatest beneficiary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to use the weaker Teutonic powers to knock out the stronger enemies, England and Turkey. Russia gets Norway and Edinburgh in the north, Rumania and two, maybe three Turkish supply centers in the south. And in any event, secures both flanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then Russia might ally with one Teutonic power against the other, or possibly with France and Italy against the two Teutonics. If they were playing a &quot;short&quot; game, where any three countries with a total of 18+ supply centers can declare themselves co-winners, they'd have the game won right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would this compare with more &quot;traditional&quot; strategies, like the &quot;juggernaut&quot; of allying with Turkey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never played Russia &quot;on my own&quot; but once &quot;inherited&quot; a Russian game from someone who had to leave early and had an alliance with Turkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:12:40.940" LastActivityDate="2021-02-25T00:56:09.517" Title="In Diplomacy, Is the &quot;Three Emperor's Alliance&quot; a Good Strategy For Russia?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4152" CreationDate="2011-07-15T15:24:22.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;spell&quot; refers to a card while it's on the stack. In order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's in your hand, it's a card (enchantment card, creature card, land card)&#xA;While you're casting it and it's on the stack, it's a spell. (creature spell, enchantment spell, etc.)&#xA;Once it's resolved, if it stays in play it's a permanent. (Instants and sorceries just resolve and discard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands are the exception - they don't use the stack and go directly from card to permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T15:24:22.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4193" CreationDate="2011-07-15T17:21:24.160" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've upvoted the other two answers, as I agree with them completely, but I just wanted to throw in my couple of bits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely a great 2 player game, and I might even go so far as to say that the 2 player games I play with my wife are my favourite way to play Agricola.  Certainly I don't ever think &quot;yeah, this is fun, but if only we'd been able to get a few friends around for the full experience&quot;, when I'm playing 2-player.  One thing I think is worth stressing is that &lt;strong&gt;Agricola changes with different numbers of players&lt;/strong&gt;.  There are Occupation cards that you remove from the deck unless you have 3+ or 4+ players, and the available actions are different for different numbers too.  Actually that's really the best argument I can think of for playing it with more players: you get to play with some cool Occupations that you don't otherwise get to see! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a similar vein - one of the beauteous things about Agricola is that &lt;strong&gt;you can scale up the complexity&lt;/strong&gt; based on the experience levels of your players.  The Family Game dispenses with the Occupation and Minor Improvement cards, and becomes a fairly chess-like (or at least Caylus-like) experience with a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; small randomness factor.  A beginner will probably still be a bit baffled by the intricacies of how to successfully bake bread, or breed animals, as both of these are multi-step processes and not initially easy to discern. But once you've got over that hurdle I guarantee you'll be hooked.  At which point you can introduced the &quot;E&quot; or &quot;Easy&quot; deck of cards, and then build up gently to the &quot;Interactive&quot; and &quot;Complex&quot; decks.  If ever a boardgame bent over backwards to have a graceful learning curve, it's Agricola.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have met players who took an instant dislike to Agricola, on complexity grounds: there is a danger that, in your first game, especially if it's a 4 or 5 player game against experienced players, you might think &quot;oh God, I have no idea what's going on, I don't have enough actions to get anything to work, all my people are going to starve to death&quot;. But many more newbies I've played with have taken to the game &lt;em&gt;instantly&lt;/em&gt;. Because the ways to attack other players are non-obvious, it's very easy to just get on with building the best farm you possibly can, and not feel too harrassed or victimised.  Plus, Harvest Moon, Farmville, etc etc: everyone loves building farms, don't they?  With a theme this universal, and the attractive components, it's pretty hard to go wrong.  Agricola is more or less the best game ever.  Get it at once!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T17:21:24.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2011-07-15T20:36:27.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bureaucrat is also a strong buy if you are planning a Gardens strategy as it further increases your deck size.  It also doesn't require Treasure to make the purchase, which can be even more useful as your expanding Gardens deck gets clogged with victory points and copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-07-15T20:36:27.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4208" CreationDate="2011-07-15T22:17:50.070" Score="9" ViewCount="1928" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently had a programming competition where each team had to &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.windwardreports.com/davidt/2011/06/code-wars-prepare-to-fire-a-broadside-mateys.html&quot;&gt;write an A.I. for the board game Broadside&lt;/a&gt;. It was perfect because the rules were simple enough that the teams had to concentrate on the basic idea of when and how to attack, and not on handling a number of esoteric rules. At the same time, it had really good gameplay rules so that the smarter A.I. had a strong advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any suggestions for games that would be a good one for a programming competition? A perfect game would have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lack of existing readily available AI's&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handles 6+ players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple easily understood rules (no or few edge cases)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enough depth so that the better AI has a strong advantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T21:59:30.027" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T16:04:46.043" Title="What is a good board game to use for a programming competition" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:33:15.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2011-07-16T01:42:01.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Junta. Better with 7 but still a lot of fun with 6. Games last 3 - 4 hours and like Diplomacy it's a lot of talking and then the turn occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1417" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T01:42:01.153" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-16T01:42:01.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2011-07-16T03:08:39.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would also echo the India first, mainly to fortify Asia from Japanese expansion on the mainland (what else is there, some infantry in China?). Australia is isolated and would need to build vulnerable transports to move anything to island hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In games that I've played, the second factory has depended on what the enemy has done in the first two turns or so. If Germany makes a hard push for Africa, I look more to build in India. If Japan makes a hard push in Asia and is successful in taking China, South Africa is more my choice. And if by sheer (bad) luck Germany takes over most of northern Africa and Japan is powering through Eastern Asia, then I look at Australia and try to get the US player to help put pressure on Japan's Eastern flank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1061" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T03:08:39.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-07-16T03:50:17.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18/roborally&quot;&gt;Robo Rally&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;) could be interesting. Amusingly, the game itself is programming a robot, one of several (up to 8) on a game board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player gets 9 random instruction cards per round and chooses 5 to play.  Then all the robots' moves are evaluated simultaneously (more or less).  Your robot can get pushed around or damaged by other robots as well as by conveyor belts and other board elements.  First robot to hit all the checkpoints in order wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have a few knobs to tweak here to make the challenge easier or harder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the players know the board in advance, or does their AI have to deal with it dynamically?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The damage rules could be left out for simplicity, or left in for more complexity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible this is too complex, but it's pretty well suited for this kind of contest, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also an excellent board game to play in person, especially with other programmers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T03:50:17.057" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-07-16T06:09:38.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4616/arimaa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arimaa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's been designed to be hard to implement an AI for, Arima is the ideal choice for a serious (non-recreational) competition. And, if it can beat the best human, it's a ten-thousand dollar prize. Further, the designer WANTS people to try. It also uses chess pieces and a chess board, so graphics are a non-issue, as stock graphics or even standard symbol font characters can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For free rules, and information on the Arimaa Challenge, go to&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arimaa.com/arimaa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://arimaa.com/arimaa/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T06:09:38.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2011-07-16T12:21:25.157" Score="23" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Intro: What does Bureaucrat really do?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bureaucrat does three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It slows down your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gives you a Silver on your next turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes your deck bigger, and increases the money-to-other-cards ratio&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, for Bureaucrat to be shine your game plan has to account for and benefit from all three of the above elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Analysis: slowing down the opponent&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only happens if the opponent will be drawing victory cards. At game start this will happen very often, but you have to foresee what course the game will take later on as well. Some factors that will help you decide are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are good trashing cards in the pool (e.g. Chapel, Remodel, Upgrade) that will be seeing use (you can judge this yourself taking into account the number of non-terminal action cards and the pool composition in general) then the opponent will trash their victory cards and Bureaucrat's attack will be neutralized.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pool does not suit itself to chaining combos and there aren't many worthwhile game plans involving action cards (e.g. when all action cards are terminal, especially if there is no card that gives +2 actions), then going the money/victory route is tempting. Bureaucrat's attack will remain relevant in the late game if this happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pool contains victory cards that will be very desirable to both players (Nobles is the most prominent, but also consider Great Hall, Harem, Island) then Bureaucrat will be hindering the opponent quite heavily throughout the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The presence of cards that will let your opponent skip the victory cards they put on top of the deck also matters. There are cards (e.g. Library, Watchtower, Farming Village, Menagerie) that can nullify or even benefit from the fact that your opponent puts a useless card on top of their deck. If the opponent's game plan might go this way, Bureaucrat will usually not be a good choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Analysis: Getting more money&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although getting more money in your deck is usually the way to go, you also don't want to get too many money cards, and those that you do get should preferably be Gold (or even Platinum, if it's in the pool). This, in turn, limits the number of times you 'd ideally want to play Bureaucrat. On the other hand, getting free Silver in the beginning can be a pretty significant advantage. These two factors can be harmoniously combined if you take the other available cards into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you plan on a heavy trashing strategy (Chapel, anyone?), one of the problems to be solved is how to transition from Copper/Estate to more desirable cards without gutting yourself in the process by leaving too little money in the deck (I believe I 'm not the only one who has drawn all their deck and realized that all their money is just 3 or 4 coppers). Bureaucrat can help with this by giving you the Silver that you need to trash all Coppers on sight with impunity. After the deck has been cut down to taste, you can also trash the Bureaucrat (even better, Remodel or Upgrade it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Analysis: Making the deck grow&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making your deck larger is a disadvantage because you get to draw your expensive and powerful cards less often. This is not relevant in the beginning, when Silver will actually be one of your most powerful cards, but as long as the game progresses it will become more and more apparent. Also, playing Bureaucrat will increase the number of money cards in the deck. This can also be detrimental if you are planning on an action-heavy strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, both of the above effects can become irrelevant or even beneficial under certain circumstances, thereby increasing Bureaucrat's usefulness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pool includes cards like Remodel or Upgrade, then you can plan on exchanging the Silver for more desirable cards (usually actions that help you combo). If you carefully balance the amount of Bureaucrats with your trashing-and-exchanging capacity (so that you don't drown yourself in Silver) then you can begin to look at Bureaucrat's effect as indirectly giving you a 4 or 5 cost action card for free, which is a very powerful effect. This is &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; good if there are no +Buy cards in the pool, when a combo like Bureaucrat/Upgrade gives you a free buy in addition to the card you get to buy normally. Later on you will have the opportunity of exchanging this Silver for a 4, 5, or even 6 cost one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pool is such that you plan on or foresee the possibility of going into turbo-Victory-buy mode (this might easily happen if one or both players goes for Big Money, or piles start running out and it becomes a race for the most Duchies and Provinces), adding money and victory cards in your deck is more beneficial than adding just victory cards. Sure, it's &quot;just&quot; a Silver, but the extra money in the deck might be just enough to offset the dilution you suffer due to buying victory cards. If these Silver make the difference between buying a Duchy and a Provice, or nothing and a Duchy, Bureaucrat can really shine. For maximum utilizations, consider the synergy with cards like Cellar or Warehouse that let you discard useless cards (victory cards most probably) and give you a chance of replacing them with more money to score a touchdown.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the pool includes cards with a variable effect magnitude dependent on the size of your deck (e.g. Gardens, Philosopher's Stone), and the strongest strategy revolves around utilizing these cards to maximum effect, then adding more cards to your deck faster than the opponent can do the same should give you a sizable advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jos%C3%A9_Ra%C3%BAl_Capablanca&quot;&gt;J.R. Capablanca&lt;/a&gt; once said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The weaker the player the more terrible the Knight is to him, but as a&#xA;  player increases in strength the value of the Bishop becomes more&#xA;  evident to him, and of course there is, or should be, a corresponding&#xA;  decrease in his estimation of the value of the Knight as compared to&#xA;  the bishop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would connect this to Bureaucrat by saying that the weaker a player is in Dominion, the better cards like Bureaucrat seem to him; as the player grows stronger, the power of other cards becomes evident (Chapel is a good example) and thus the relative value of Bureaucrat decreases even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Bureaucrat &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be put to good use under favorable circumstances as long as you keep the balance regarding your deck's composition. It's very useful to be able to recognize card pools where multiple of the above scenarios are applicable, thereby allowing Bureaucrat to operate at full power; and when it manages to do so, it can make the difference between two otherwise evenly matched players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastEditorUserId="611" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T23:32:07.463" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T23:32:07.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-07-16T21:07:55.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1912/world-cup-tournament-football&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Cup Tournament Football&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are straightforward and very simple, and success in this game is dependent upon figuring out how your opponents are playing without being able to see which teams your opponents &quot;have&quot;. An unskilled AI can tip its hand early in the game in much the same way an unskilled rummy player will reveal their goals to a skilled opponent: they can deduce which teams you've got if you are not careful about how you play your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional advantage is that teams can be evenly divided among 6, 8, or 12 AI, depending on how you want to distribute the teams ... you could modify the bonuses given to each team to make teams more or less even so that random draw of teams has less or more impact, or even group teams into specific packs and have each AI play from different positions, similar to a duplicate bridge tournament (maybe even down to distributing cards identically for each run).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/173/formula-de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Formula Dé&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.formula-d.info/en/?cat=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are relatively straightforward, and while the distance you move is largely controlled by dice, there's a good bit of strategy involved with respect to the best path to take, how to approach turns and such. An AI that does not judge turns and relative positions of cars will be significantly handicapped. With the advanced rules, if you allow &quot;players&quot; to determine the number of Wear Points assigned to each component, there should be additional variance between AIs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-07-16T22:35:27.720" LastActivityDate="2011-07-16T22:35:27.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-07-17T03:44:24.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the comments perhaps this should just stand as &quot;reasons why Diplomacy is not a good suggestion&quot;, summarized as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the AI would be too hard to code&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AI for diplomacy already exists&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original answer: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about Diplomacy?  6+ players, I've never heard of any AI, rules are deterministic, and room for AI to really achieve and show difference between programmers seems ample. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T17:14:34.273" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T17:14:34.273" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-07-17T17:11:38.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about Blockus?  It's simple, expandable to any number of players, even to 3d, and has interesting choices on representations of the pieces.  It also allows for varying board shapes and sizes in the AI world.  And it's pretty to watch running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-07-17T17:11:38.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4197" CreationDate="2011-07-18T01:18:02.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An ARG alliance would seem to heavily favor Russia, so you might offend Austria and Germany even asking for it.  The main reason is that such an alliance requires both Germany and Austria to turn their backs on Russia and move their forces away from him.  On the other hand, Russia's forces and builds remain in positions that could quite easily be turned against his allies when the time is right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also limited opportunities for the three to apply joint pressure.  Italy is unlikely to work with Austria and Russia knowing that he is probably next, and Turkey can be a tough nut to crack without Italy's help.  Similarly, Germany can't provide much help to Russia in breaking into England.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to pull it off is probably to try to keep the alliance hidden.  Have Germany focus on working with France against England, and portray a neutral stance against Russia.  Similarly, have Austria focus on the good old Juggernaut threat and get Italy to commit against Turkey while making a show of aggression against Russia.  Don't let the alliance become obvious until you've been able to weaken the corners.  Even then, it would seem much harder for Germany to now turn on France rather than just continuing with his &quot;false&quot; ally and moving against Russia instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T01:18:02.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4873" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:17:43.207" Score="6" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?set=Alchemy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the cards from Dominion: Alchemy&lt;/a&gt; and want to use some of them in my own games through proxying of the blank cards. However, I don't feel like delving into the whole potion thing, especially since it would be annoying to have to proxy at least 4 different cards (the potion and 3 kingdom cards to get the recommended amount of 3-5). So I figured I'd just give them costs in $ only and not potions. Another application of this might be playing with the alchemy cards if for some reason you didn't want to use potion as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm not exactly sure what costs to use. A potion is roughly equivalent to a silver, but that seems like an oversimplification. One of the interesting things about alchemy is that you have to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3116/how-does-the-addition-of-the-potion-treasure-from-dominion-alchemy-change-the-ga&quot;&gt;buy the potions in order to access these cards and balance them with your other currency.&lt;/a&gt; This scarcity makes me lean more toward counting a potion to add +3$ to the cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem about right? If not, could someone perhaps provide a case by case basis for the 9 cards this would pertain to (since Alchemist in a potion-less game would be rather odd I'm not planning on including it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T16:17:34.077" Title="How much would the cards from Dominion: Alchemy cost if you wanted to use them while not playing with potions?" Tags="|house-rules|dominion|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2011-07-18T02:51:39.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the defining characteristics of Potions in Alchemy is that they force a reshuffle-delay.  That is, you have to first invest in the potion, then reshuffle and draw it before you're able to spend it on a card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is never going to be true of a cost that is just boosted to cost more coins, unfortunately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any particular evidence to back this up but +$3 seems high, at least for some cards. Possession might warrant a $9 cost, I'm not sure, but some of the other weaker cards really don't feel like they'd work at +$3 to me.  I'll try to come up with my per-card opinions at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bummer about Alchemist, too - it's one of my favorite cards from Alchemy. Then again, I'm a fan of big honkin' action chains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T02:51:39.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2333" CreationDate="2011-07-18T04:54:31.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;kemps! &#xA;you have to have an even amount of people and you have pair up with on another and you have to think of secret codes with each other and the dealer passes out 4 card on the table and you have a choice of switching card with amy of the 4 cards on the tabel. once you have 4 of a kind in your hand you signal your partner with your secret code! it is a really fun game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1550" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T04:54:31.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-07-18T07:08:39.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1465/wizard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a card game for 3-6 people. The rules are relatively simple. First you try and predict how many tricks you'll take in a round. And then you play to make it so. If you hit the mark you get points proportional to the number of tricks you made. If you're off in either direction you loose points proportional to the number you're off by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I could gather there is only an IPhone version out there that has AI play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1294/clue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cluedo/Clue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also very simple rules and you could even have two leagues: One with movement and one without movement. There are definitely algorithms out there but I don't know how accessible they are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T07:08:39.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4221" CreationDate="2011-07-18T13:54:45.330" Score="3" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dealt and bid one heart with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;spades;Axx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &amp;hearts;AQJxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &amp;diams;Jxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &amp;clubs;xx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left hand opponent doubled for takeout. Partner passed with something like K&amp;diams;, Q&amp;clubs; and one heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right hand opponent held something like &amp;spades;Jxx &amp;hearts;KT98xxx &amp;diams;void &amp;clubs;Jxx and bid two hearts. It made, since the takeout doubler had some 18 points. I congratulated them on a good contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have been better for RHO to pass for penalties instead? (No one was vulnerable). I always thought that a bid on the opponents' suit opposite a takeout double was a &quot;cue&quot; bid indicating a void, and slam interest, with prospectively 25-30 partnership points concentrated in three suits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were bidding a &quot;loose&quot; version of Standard American. So was two hearts a proper bid in this context? Or should it have meant something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T19:12:44.790" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T07:10:47.880" Title="In &quot;Standard&quot; American, Is It Possible to Bid the Opposing Suit &quot;Naturally&quot; Over a Takeout Double?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4220" CreationDate="2011-07-18T18:13:16.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;standard&quot; american (or typical variants of 2/1) it is normal to play 2H in the sequence: (1H) - X - (P) - 2H, as a close to game forcing hand (opposite a minimum takeout double) or better. There might be variants which different partnerships play, but it is almost never a natural bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2H should not be to play, as it makes no sense to play in 2H there. You are contracting to make at least 8 tricks with hearts as trump, with partner showing shortness in hearts by his takeout double! If you make those same 8+ tricks, opposing a 1H doubled contract, don't you rate to make at least +200 (or more if opps are vul)? There might be cases where you let 1H doubled make, but in that case, you are probably down 2 in your own 2H anyway and those would be very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over a minor suit takeout, some people might consider playing it as natural, as opponents could have shortness there and might have the option to try and run to a longer suit, but I believe the usual is still to play 2D in: (1D) - X - (P) - 2D, as close to game forcing hand etc and not natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-07-18T18:25:56.453" LastActivityDate="2011-07-18T18:25:56.453" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2011-07-19T11:20:21.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I do realize that Crane is not useless in theory for the obvious reasons (Oltarus mentions them), I do believe that it is &lt;strong&gt;totally useless &lt;em&gt;in practice&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends at 12 buildings, and you can only build one at most each turn. Furthermore, each time you build your opponent(s) will also have the chance to do the same. This means that if you are not gaining the same amount of VPs (on average) as your opponents each time anyone plays the Builder, you are falling behind. Given that almost all the big VP producers (including the overpowered Guild Hall) totally depend or at least work better when you have &lt;em&gt;a large number&lt;/em&gt; of buildings, it follows that Crane is not the best for your VP total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since Builder will be selected almost in every turn, players &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using Crane will be constantly moving towards ending the game (and improving their board while they do so). Using Crane requires you to sacrifice one building opportunity (for the Crane itself) and play with less buildings than your opponents (an additional 1 building less each time you opt to use the Crane), which means that you get less building abilities to work with. But you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; want to use the Crane (why build it otherwise), resulting in what is a death spiral to my eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never even &lt;em&gt;considered&lt;/em&gt; using Crane when playing against seasoned gamers -- it was obvious to me that they would end the game with many more VPs than me while I would still be at 9-10 buildings at most. I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; used Crane successfully against much weaker opponents, but that doesn't mean the card is good (I would have won using anything, really).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2011-07-19T11:20:21.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4225" CreationDate="2011-07-19T12:54:47.817" Score="15" ViewCount="6071" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Special Orders&quot; card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During this turn, the current player may move one other player's pawn (with permission) as if it were his own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read this and the rule book (which gives further clarifications), but I am still unclear on the interaction of this card and the abilities of the different roles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a concise description of how the card works, which covers cases such as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generalist moving the medic through a cured disease,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medic moving the generalist through a cured disease,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Troubleshooter moving operations expert by direct flight,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone moving the dispatcher, attempting to move a third player using their power,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bonus points I would be interested in any interactions with other special events that are relevant (i.e. confusion that I haven't had yet!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T14:47:02.540" Title="How does the &quot;Special Orders&quot; special event card work?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4224" CreationDate="2011-07-19T13:07:44.877" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the dispatcher ability minus bringing people together.  For example, you can use it to move the containment specialist or (with a cure) the medic through cities to remove cubes.  We've done this to get double duty out of the medic late in the game when we were racing the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are using your own move actions (and any constraints or benefits they bring) to move the other player.  (You spend your own cards for flights, for example.)  The other player's abilities are relevant if they are effects of moving, but not if they involve actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generalist moving the medic through a cured disease: cubes are removed; gets to move five times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medic moving the generalist through a cured disease: no effect (the medic didn't enter the city), four moves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Troubleshooter moving ops expert by direct flight: Troubleshooter reveals the correct card rather than discarding it (his ability); but doesn't get to use an arbitrary card if at a research station (the ops expert's ability).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone moving the dispatcher, attempting to move a third player: no, you don't get access yourself to the other player's special abilities.  (But you could just move that third player instead with this action.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/445371/special-orders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread on Boardgame Geek&lt;/a&gt;, particularly the comments from Tom Lehmann, the co-designer of On the Brink.  (Thanks to @tremby for pointing this out in a comment.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T14:47:02.540" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T14:47:02.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4227" CreationDate="2011-07-19T15:27:32.197" Score="2" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I am declarer, and dummy has a &quot;side&quot; (non-trump) suit with AQx or AQxx, and I have xxx in my hand. I have been told NOT to finesse the Q (a 50-50 chance), except as a last resort, or late in hand. (And to &quot;refuse&quot; the finesse, probably taking the ace, if that suit is led in say, a NT contract).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change dummy a bit to AQTxx. Now I'm told that I have a double finesse, because I am finessing against both the K and J. In such instances, I have been told that I SHOULD finesse (assuming that going twice to my hand to lead doesn't cause problems elsewhere). If the KJ are both with LHO, I win twice, if both with RHO, I lose twice, but most likely, I win one and lose one because the honors are split. If the opponents have a 3-2 split (a 68% chance), I can treat the lost finesse as a &quot;ducking&quot; play, and run the suit for four tricks after I clear it with the ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes the &quot;double&quot; finesse so much better than the &quot;simple&quot; finesse? Is it because the extra card in dummy might allow me to win a fourth (long) trick? Or is it because I have a second potential stopper in dummy if the first finesse fails? Is it in the double finesse I PROBABLY win once, whereas in the simple finesse I POSSIBLY win once?  Or have I been given the wrong advice about double finesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T23:33:48.927" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T23:33:48.927" Title="In Bridge, What is the Merit of Taking a &quot;Double&quot; Finesse?" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4226" CreationDate="2011-07-19T17:39:40.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have answered your own question in the last paragraph. The simple finesse gets nothing because you can only win the Queen if the King is onside, in which case you will come to it in the end anyway, and taking it may consume an entry, lose a tempo, and so forth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second case you are, as you state, developing a possible long card, and (provided you put in the Ten) possibly the Queen as a winner if the Jack is right and the King wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T14:52:47.210" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T14:52:47.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-20T13:46:19.127" Score="7" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to have a Bulgarian version that does not specify if the player can destroy 1 enemy building, while sacrificing it, or the whole city. It's hard to explain, but I think it was translated by someone unfamiliar with the exact Bulgarian meaning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the English version of the card say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1557" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-07-20T15:00:59.230" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T15:00:59.230" Title="In the English version of Citadels, what is the action text on the card named Armory/Weaponry?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2011-07-20T14:01:25.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I would just proxy a pair of potions. Potions are different from normal treasures in that each player often will only buy 1, whereas a typical game will have multiple purchases of Gold and Silver by each person. So, making the Potion proxies does not require as many cards as Kingdom card proxies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your goal is to just play through the cards to see what it's like, why not take a stack of Kingdom cards that aren't being used in a particular game and pretend those are Potions for the game? I would recommend having a reminder in large letters for everyone to see so they don't accidentally play their &quot;Bureaucrat&quot; as a Action rather than as the Potion it's representing, but that would be a simple way to try out some Alchemy cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T14:01:25.690" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4229" CreationDate="2011-07-20T14:40:57.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/98116/armory-card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on BoardGameGeek, someone posts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The card says:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  During your turn, you may destroy the Armory in order to destroy any other district card of your choice in another player's city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citadels_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page for Citadels&lt;/a&gt; refers back to that thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the thread, the game designer (Bruno Faidutti) mentions that the ability to destroy one district can be used when a player builds an eighth district (which would end the game at the end of that round), even though normally you can't destroy a district in a city that's already completed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BF: I admit the rules are ambiguous on this, but my idea was that it is allowed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Q: Would the game still end, as the card says the game ends after the turn, even though the condition is no longer met?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  BF: Yes, it would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-07-20T14:40:57.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2011-07-21T01:32:30.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that Crane is a very situational card. I don't use it much, but there are few places where it can be useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Like Oltarus said, you can use it to pay for a high-cost building (like Guild Hall) in two steps. (And if you have Carpenter, you got a draw to use on your building on next turn ;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If for some reason during a game you play a Guild Hall but don't have a lot of building productions, you can start replacing some of violet building with production ones for a discounted price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And last, suppose a turn where some opponent built his 12th building, so the game will end now and he is just a few points ahead you (maybe 1 or 2?), then you can place some monument or some other high VP card, and then be able to get ahead again (or at least tie and hope to win on tie-breakers).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a card that you will use a lot (I don't use it very often too), but I think that it can help you in some spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1551" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-21T04:46:20.773" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T04:46:20.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4235" CreationDate="2011-07-21T16:32:23.077" Score="3" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game of &lt;strong&gt;Antike&lt;/strong&gt; with 5 other people.  Everyone but me started at Marble, then paid one resource on the next turn to jump to Temple.  Having never played before, I went another way, just to be different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a temple built on turn 2 obviously kick-starts your economy, but is it really the best way to start?  Did everyone know something I didn't or were they all just mirroring each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I went Gold-Arming-Know How and claimed the first VP on turn 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T23:05:31.650" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T23:05:31.650" Title="Should a temple always be built on turn 2 in Antike?" Tags="|openings|antike|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2011-07-21T17:50:44.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remodel is especially useful in games without +Buy, allowing you to make an end-game Victory point purchase as well as a remodel.  This can often swing close games to your favor.  I'm a big fan of incorporating Remodel into my strategy and I buy them (and cards like it) early and often.  Great card!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T17:50:44.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4233" CreationDate="2011-07-21T21:08:53.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While getting a Temple is a very good first move, there's a lot to be said for getting the first Technology.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would immediately follow it up with a Temple though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T21:08:53.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2076" CreationDate="2011-07-21T22:16:16.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that each &quot;chip&quot; doesn't have to have value, but the overall outcome (winning or losing) must.  For a party, or poker night setting where adult beverages are involved, I would suggest keeping track of the bill for everyone's drinks, then splitting the bill at the end of the night between the losers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1564" LastActivityDate="2011-07-21T22:16:16.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4256" CreationDate="2011-07-22T01:12:29.720" Score="15" ViewCount="5380" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says it all -- maybe it's just me, but the difficulty from going to Normal to Elite difficulty is more than a little challenging.  I've played with a combination of player combinations, but haven't been able to beat the game on Elite yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to be struggling to win on either Elite or Legendary difficulty based on the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keeping up with three flooded areas per turn right off the bat (instead of the usual two)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only able to hold 10 treasure cards (2 people * 5 cards per person)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being too spread out to keep shoring up flooded areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any tips or strategies for dealing with three- or four-flooded areas per turn, and how best to trade and use special abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T19:18:00.553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:18:00.553" Title="How can I beat Forbidden Island at Elite or Legendary difficulty with two players?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4238" CreationDate="2011-07-22T16:23:09.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of it depends on what roles you choose. Engineer obviously is going to have a greater ability to shore up areas, and Explorer is good with that as well. I'd say these are the two optimal roles -- stay close together, and plan to go through the deck at least once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pilot and Diver, you are focusing less on shoring up (although that's important), and more on making sure you are together, shoring up the vital areas, and trading cards. I'd say these two roles are more challenging, because more of the island will sink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two roles, I'd skip for a two player game on Elite -- too challenging. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, it's difficult in any case. Not sure if any of this helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T16:23:09.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2011-07-22T18:42:11.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remodel is great for turning Gold (3 Treasure, Cost 6) into Provinces (6 VPs, Cost 8,) which can quickly get you tons of points and force a game end. This works especially well with &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vYaCH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Mine&quot;&gt;Mine&lt;/a&gt; (which is in the &quot;basic&quot; set of cards,) &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iiMnx.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Adventurer&quot;&gt;Adventurer&lt;/a&gt;, and any card(s) which give +2 actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play your +2 actions card(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If needed, use Adventurer to get Treasure cards (hopefully Copper/Silver) into your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Mine(s) to upgrade treasure cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remodel Gold -&gt; Province&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also have lots of Gold in your hand following this strategy, so it may be possible to simply buy Provinces outright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This build can also be done without Adventurer, but you will want to build a small deck focusing on treasure, +card cards, and +action cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1386" LastEditorUserId="1386" LastEditDate="2011-07-22T18:47:54.950" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T18:47:54.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="276" CreationDate="2011-07-22T19:32:00.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battlestar Galactica The board game is fantastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plays 6. Massive tension. Co-op game with hidden cylons.&#xA;Find the Cylons before they wreck your day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Downtime is not bad since each player only does 1 move + 1 action + 1 bad thing (flip over the crisis card) during his turn. I find games move fast once people know the rules.&#xA;Interaction is key. &quot;You're the cylon!!!!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are expansions out for it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a lot like Shadows over Camelot in some regards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1570" LastActivityDate="2011-07-22T19:32:00.523" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-22T19:32:00.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4243" CreationDate="2011-07-22T20:55:39.413" Score="9" ViewCount="44865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically, we are running into the following points of contention: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a piece is removed, do you have to place it neatly on top to build a new complete layer, or can you build incomplete layers? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you allowed to remove and/or place tiles with both hands?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T13:14:07.730" LastActivityDate="2019-09-06T23:52:03.077" Title="What are the official rules of Jenga?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4242" CreationDate="2011-07-22T21:16:14.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to StackExchange!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must complete each layer before starting a new one (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenga#Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenga#Rules&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only one hand at a time may be used to remove a block; both hands can be used, but only one hand may be on the tower at a time. (see the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2452/jenga&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; at BoardGameGeek.com)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-07-23T03:45:17.607" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T03:45:17.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3331" CreationDate="2011-07-23T05:52:02.257" Score="13" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Yes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_361_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prosperity rules&lt;/a&gt; pg. 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watchtower&lt;/strong&gt; -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a gained card is going&#xA;somewhere other than to your discard pile, such as a card gained with&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Mine&lt;/strong&gt; (from Dominion), you can still use Watchtower to trash it or put&#xA;it on your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's great that Dominion always includes blurbs in their rules for each card.  They seem to have anticipated most rules questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T05:52:02.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4248" CreationDate="2011-07-23T13:16:08.523" Score="18" ViewCount="47432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Jenga have any specific strategies for block placement and removal that can be employed? Are there certain moves or ideas I could employ to (for example) increase the likelihood that the stack will fall on my opponent's next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1572" LastActivityDate="2019-02-24T11:42:21.887" Title="Are there any specific strategies in Jenga?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2063" CreationDate="2011-07-23T20:50:09.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its very easy to run out of clue tokens, especially when playing on the double clue easy level or using a herald that provides extra clues each turn - I do every single game at some point (usually early to mid game). There is nothing in the rules to say that the number of clues is limited to the number of tokens provided so use any other counters in pace of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1576" LastActivityDate="2011-07-23T20:50:09.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4245" CreationDate="2011-07-23T21:15:29.067" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most unstable situation is adjacent middle blocks, and in general, instabilities near the bottom of the stack are more likely to cause the tower to fall than those at the top because of the greater weight of blocks being held up by the rickety base and because of the longer moment arm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oEL75.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;falling Jenga tower&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's not quite as simple as setting up a precarious-middle-blocks-at-the-bottom-of-the-tower scenario just to make your opponent move after you've set it up, as the picture makes clear that several middle blocks in a row can often be stable enough for at least a couple more turns--in which case your ploy could come back to bite you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I've used is to judge which way the tower was tilting after I'd removed my block and then place it on the opposite side on the top. The goal here is to make your opponent place their block on the weak side and hopefully bring everything down. It has the added benefit of being the safest place to put your block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's not much strategy to Jenga; it's really more about steady hands, dexterity, and being able to tell which blocks are loose. (Unless of course you engage in &lt;a href=&quot;http://tablesaltgames.blogspot.com/2008/10/5-reasons-i-love-jenga.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;psychological warfare&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-07-27T00:15:21.590" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T00:15:21.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-24T13:20:55.930" Score="3" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chivalry allows you to put one cube on one event card for each red die in your district (excluding the ones you use). Joust operates in the same vein, but requires the total value of the red dice in your district to be higher than everyone's else to gain 2 VP per activation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, those 2 activities disregard the red dice you use to activate them, which make those 2 seemingly less useful than Troubadour, Pilgrimage, Journeyman, Goldsmith and Sculptor for VP engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also considering that one citizen at the palace costs 2 coin to upkeep, and it's easy to be expelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to use those 2 cards as VP engine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-17T15:40:10.190" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T15:40:10.190" Title="In Troyes, how do use Chivalry and Joust as part of a VP engine?" Tags="|troyes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3281" CreationDate="2011-07-25T10:04:33.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm a bit late :/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though it seems like a lot to take in, if you really want to start playing nomic, there's no better place than Agora (except if you act fast, more on that in the next paragraph). The thing is, yeah, Agora is really intense, and yeah, you're probably not going to remember all the rules. But everyone who plays Agora has an extremely high tolerance for newcomers, because they are all still keenly aware of how difficult it was during their first days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wait, if you call in the next 20 minutes, you'll get this special TV offer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B Nomic has collapsed. The reasons are interesting but kind of irrelevant; Agora is about to pass legislation that explains it, so I'd point you to that ruleset when it gets updated. But the cool thing is that there are a whole bunch of people who are really good at playing Nomic, and understand how to handle new players, who are starting a brand new nomic. That is honestly a rare opportunity - there is no better time to start playing a nomic than during the formative years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1581" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T10:04:33.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4348" CreationDate="2011-07-25T13:15:53.607" Score="3" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to solve bridge problems in newspapers. When I do this, I often get the correct answer, or at least come &quot;within sight&quot; (e.g. get the key idea but &quot;muff&quot; the sequence). This process typically takes 2-3 minutes, because I start by inventorying outstanding trumps and honors, plan the play suit by suit, and identify potential problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's different, in &quot;real time play.&quot; Here, when dummy hits the table, I get 15, at most 30 seconds to study it before beginning (e.g declarer) play. If I take longer, others at the table start to grumble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I end up playing &quot;by instinct&quot;; I need to clear suit X, or I need to draw trumps or no, I need to save trumps for &quot;transportation.&quot; This works &quot;quite well,&quot; (relative to my peer group). But I fear that I'm blowing hands, or at least relying on opponents' mistakes, when I actually have a &quot;forced&quot; win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do have two advantages in &quot;real time&quot; that I don't have with newspaper columns. 1) I see my hand beforehand. 2) I've heard the bidding beforehand. Whereas, with a newspaper column, I see dummy, my hand, and the bidding simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were in a tournament, would I get a &quot;reasonable&quot; amount of time (say 1 minute) to study the board before I play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does anyone know of a way that I can speed up my &quot;newspaper&quot; reaction time to that of the much faster &quot;real time&quot; play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T05:34:53.300" Title="In Bridge, Is There A Way To Shorten &quot;Reaction Time&quot; For &quot;Real Time&quot; Play" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-25T13:54:15.087" Score="5" ViewCount="2104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a beginner and could not find out the application or the use of those bonus points above the line in contract(rubber) bridge. If the winner in a contract bridge is the pair that first achieves 2 sets of 100 or more points below the line (thus winning a rubber), what is the use of those bonus points? In what situations are these bonus points being made use of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone please enlighten me. Thanks a lot in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-07-25T14:20:55.163" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T09:44:15.607" Title="In contract bridge, what are bonus points for?" Tags="|bridge|scoring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4245" CreationDate="2011-07-25T14:17:13.857" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are very dexterous, and are playing with players that are also very dexterous, realize that the math of your choices can determine who wins.  Each level can have either 1 or 2 removed from it.  Try to leave your opponent(s) in a situation where they have no possible moves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if there is 1 full level, and 1 level with the middle and 1 side, and you are playing with only 1 other player, remove one of the outer pieces from the full level.  This will leave 2 pieces, one for your opponent and one for you.  But if you are playing with more than 1 opponent, remove the middle piece from the full level, so that the pieces will run out before it gets back to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T14:17:13.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4252" CreationDate="2011-07-25T14:20:36.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When one side has won two games, all points (both above and below the line) are totaled, and the side with more points wins, even if they didn't win the rubber. This is where the bonus points come into play: the points for undertricks, overtricks, slams, rubber, etc. all count toward the final score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The American Contract Bridge League &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn/scoreRubber.html&quot;&gt;explains it the same way&lt;/a&gt;, which I think can be kind of confusing: they talk about &quot;winning the rubber&quot; and &quot;winning&quot; without making a clear distinction. It may help to think about it simply as playing for points. Getting the rubber bonus is very helpful, but total score is what you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T14:20:36.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4252" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:13:47.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get points &quot;below the line&quot; that count toward winning games. You get points &quot;above the line&quot; for HOW you win those games. You also get bonus points &quot;above the line&quot; for other things, that count toward your total score (as described below). The total of ALL the points (game and bonuses) determine the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, victory margin of 2-0 in games is most impressive, and scores a bonus of 700 points. A victory margin of 2-1 is less impressive, and scores only 500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also get bonuses for slams (bidding and making a contract for every trick or all but one) If you are &quot;not vulnerable,&quot; (no games to your credit), the bonus for a grand slam (every trick) is 1000 points, and 500 for a small slam (all but one). &quot;Vulnerable,&quot; (one game to your credit), these bonuses, are 1500 and 750.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also get points for &quot;setting&quot; an opposing contract (your opponents make a bid that they can't fulfill). These penalties are increased if you announce &quot;double&quot; after the last bid. Of course, your opponents get points for setting YOUR contracts, and more if &quot;doubled.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of bonuses is to try to capture the TOTALITY of what happened. Here's an example: Your opponents make two games, 3NT and 4 spades, for 100 and 120 &quot;game&quot; points respectively. They also win the rubber, two games to one, for 500 bonus points. That's a total of 720.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your side made only one game. But it was a &quot;grand slam&quot; with a 1000 point bonus. Add this to your 210 &quot;game&quot; points, and your total score of 1210 beats their 720.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example: They score two games to none, for 920 (120+100+700).  So far you're losing. But you also scored 1000 points in penalties. That'because you doubled their contracts twice after they had &quot;game on&quot; and put them down two tricks (for 500 points) each time. Multiply by two to get the 1000 points, which beats their 920.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, a team that wins a rubber two games to one or two games to none scores the most points. But I have given you two instances where this is not the case.  And the difference was &quot;bonus&quot; points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-07-25T15:13:47.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4238" CreationDate="2011-07-25T15:25:30.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your limited power to hold cards is still going to be one of the most important parts of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you're guaranteed to go through the deck at least once and probably more, don't be afraid to use your special action cards (helicopter and sandbags). You might already be doing this, but I know my group sometimes tries to save them when we could have easily gotten them again when the deck cycled through a second time and gotten almost double the benefit. The big exception is if you're toward the end of the game, have only 1 helicopter, and know you won't be drawing one soon. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have the cards to get a treasure, get it ASAP. Having to hang on to 4 cards essentially gives you a 1 card capacity and means you'll have to discard a lot of things you'd rather have kept. The sooner you can dump those cards for a treasure to free up hand space, the better. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Time is your enemy. You probably already knew this, but it's worth reiterating. You need to manage the cards that you draw as effectively as possible by getting treasures as soon as possible, because once you discard 2 cards of one color, you have to wait until the next reshuffle to even have a chance at getting them back. And with 3-5 tiles flooding per turn it's extremely difficult to shore them up fast enough. Thing will get worse every turn, so do whatever it takes to avoid having to wait a long period of time for a certain card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Figure out what part of the island you really need to save. There are virtually always some tiles that are less important that you can let sink without much consequence. Since movement is so expensive, be very wary of what's worth moving for. If you're going to use your whole turn to move to a tile to shore it up, make shore its a tile that's actually worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However, if you don't have to move to shore up a tile, I'd always do it unless you have something more urgent, like getting a treasure. Shoring up a tile guarantees that it will stay afloat at least until the next Waters Rise! card comes up, and having its flood card in the deck means that more important things won't be sinking. Any turn you shore up 3+ tiles, even if they're non-essential, is a well spent turn as long as you won't be forced to discard anything valuable. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As for trading, try to identify one part of the island you can keep afloat and both stay in to reduce movement needed to reach the other player. If you have 4 cards of one color between you, do whatever is necessary to get that treasure FAST so you won't be forced to discard 2 cards of one color and have to wait for another reshuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely say the game is most difficult with 2 players, so don't be ashamed if you have trouble winning. I'd probably leave out the navigator and messenger as Bryanjonker stated in his answer as their powers will be the weakest in a 2 player game. You'd probably have better odds of winning if you gave yourself a small handicap. My preferred way to playing is with 4 actions per turn and the initial water level cranked up 1 level. Things tend to stay about even, the game goes quicker, there's more tension, and IMHO more strategy. If you like you could also allow sandbag cards to be used as any color treasure to reduce the dreaded long wait for that one card you need to complete a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T19:17:46.433" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:17:46.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4259" CreationDate="2011-07-26T20:45:11.053" Score="8" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the things that the electronic version can do to enhance gameplay? Conversely, what could the board game version do to overcome this view? Feel free to use examples if it would help clarify your answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1588" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T22:22:02.277" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T12:00:42.210" Title="How can I identify games that would work better on the computer?" Tags="|game-design|computers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4257" CreationDate="2011-07-26T20:51:52.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to like Dominion more online than face to face.  The game has a ton of shuffling, and hence you can play much faster online.  Also, I am a bit biased, but online implementations often give access to game logs, which you can then crunch and compute interesting statistics from.  For example, my &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion stats site&lt;/a&gt; and my &lt;a href=&quot;http://rftgstats.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy stats site&lt;/a&gt; both produce interesting stats from game logs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to think strategic games that don't have a political element to them work better online than off.  But I can't imagine playing something like BSG without being face to face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-07-26T22:20:03.120" LastActivityDate="2011-07-26T22:20:03.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4257" CreationDate="2011-07-27T00:42:34.447" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Computerized board and card games can have an advantage when it enables automation of what would otherwise be mundane or tedious tasks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffling cards in Dominion is a good example; eliminating shuffling applies to lots of classic card games that have wide on-line audiences like hearts, spades, etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer versions also work well if they can abstract away math that is part of the game, but not really a part of the strategy. Think about a game where anyone at the table would be comfortable helping someone get the calculation right; a benign example would be calculating the 10% income tax in monopoly or figuring out the price to unmortgage a property.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some players don't like the uncertainty involved in games with lots of dice rolling or probability calculations because they're not comfortable enough doing them in their heads to enjoy playing in person. Obvious examples include gambling games like poker or war simulations like Axis and Allies, both of which have active and thriving on-line communities. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attributes that make a game ill-suited to being played on a computer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A high degree of player interaction, especially if characterized by collaboration. Examples would be Arkham Horror (highly collaborative) or Pictionary (lots of in person interaction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games where access to the internet completely ruins them: Trivial Pursuit and Scattegories come to mind, as does Balderdash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games where a significant fraction of the enjoyment comes from the atmosphere created by playing, like Arkham Horror or Betrayal at the House on the Hill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games where players need to take in a lot of information at once. As Edward Tufte likes to point out, the resolution of the physical world is still much greater than the resolution of a screen and most board games take up much more real estate when played than a typical monitor size. I've never played, but looking at all the pieces in the box, Twilight Imperium seems like a potential example, and even playing Axis and Allies on the computer can suffer from a hindered ability to &quot;see the whole board&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T00:42:34.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2277" CreationDate="2011-07-27T13:04:44.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games are a microcosm of life, and sometimes &quot;art imitates life.&quot; I will use some examples from bridge, one of my &quot;better&quot; games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a person at my table who always wants a better result than she &quot;deserves&quot; (based on the cards that she and her partner are holding). Is it any surprise that she overreaches in &quot;real life&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others will underbid or underplay based on the cards that they hold. Such people don't seem to know the value of what they hold, and may be too timid in life as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, of course, there is always the MANNER in which people play. That's not supposed to happen at a bridge table, at least in &quot;serious&quot; bridge, but it crops up all the time in casual play. Some people are overbearing in the way the bid and play. Others seem to be overly detached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, you'll get to know a lot of people playing bridge. While some play &quot;professionally&quot; (close to the vest) the majority will reveal themselves by how they bid and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-07-27T13:04:44.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-07-28T00:45:43.380" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would argue copper to silver before silver to gold.  The copper to silver trade doubles the value of that card, while silver to gold is only a 50% increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1509" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T00:45:43.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2011-07-28T02:52:11.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a basic level, I weigh the 3 IPC payment and the opportunity cost of the units I used to invade it against the benefit to be gained. That's pretty generic so some examples might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Japan, I often find myself invading Panama in the mid- to late-game because my navy has nothing else useful to do. If America doesn't have any tanks in Western US, chooses not to use them, or if I have enough extra transports that I was able to land a blocking infantry in Mexico, then America will be unable to kill any units that landed in Panama. In this case, I'll typically invade Venezuela on the next turn and then take Brazil. The 3 IPCs from Brazil are an equal trade for the 3 I lose for invading a neutral, the value from really throwing a monkey wrench into America's plans is high, and the opportunity cost was low, since the navy wasn't busy anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the Allies I've landed in Spain before just to open up another front for Germany to defend. It can be very difficult to stage a successful amphibious invasion because of the lame attacking power of infantry, the one tank per transport limit, and the ability to lose your entire air force because of the no retreat rule. So to prevent having to attack, I've invaded Spain as the UK and dumped a full load of infantry followed by the US on their turn. Now Germany either has to counter attack (with only the infantry in France and without any tanks in EEU or further East) or give me a foothold in Europe I'll likely never give back. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've also played with a house rule before where land units could cross the Bosporus if Turkey was occupied. So I tried invading Turkey as Germany to help me ferry troops into Africa. This didn't work that well as it's still a long way from the Fatherland.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T02:52:11.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4264" CreationDate="2011-07-28T05:14:16.267" Score="24" ViewCount="28628" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there some way to remove or counteract poison counters? Specifically, once you've already accumulated them, not when you are dealt them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say I already have 9 poison counters. Is there some way to reduce this number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1594" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T11:42:36.520" LastActivityDate="2023-02-13T22:51:41.280" Title="Can poison counters be removed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2011-07-28T05:36:25.220" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counters can be removed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I believe there is only one card that currently removes poison counters, and that is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeeches%5d&quot;&gt;Leeches&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target player loses all poison counters.  Leeches deals 1 damage to that player for each poison counter removed in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leeches was in the &lt;strong&gt;Homelands&lt;/strong&gt; set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2019-02-21T19:52:58.367" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T19:52:58.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2011-07-28T16:25:21.477" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this column, by Magic head honcho Mark Rosewater: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/something-wicked-way-comes-part-1-2010-09-06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Something Wicked This Way Comes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It explains some of the thinking behind &quot;modern&quot; poison, most relevantly why you'll have trouble finding any other card that can reduce your poison total apart from Leeches.  Here's a taste:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My hatred of Leeches did one important thing. It cemented in me the&#xA;  importance of poison not just being another life total. (This theme&#xA;  will become very important in Scars of Mirrodin's design.) As such,&#xA;  you will not see any card in the entire Scars of Mirrodin block that&#xA;  removes poison. It cannot be done. There are answers. There are ways&#xA;  to deal with poison but healing yourself of it is not one of them. If&#xA;  you want to remove poison counters you will only have one way—Leeches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T22:12:13.077" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T22:12:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4270" CreationDate="2011-07-28T17:23:29.913" Score="14" ViewCount="2902" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the past couple of weeks I got a bit addicted to online 2-player &quot;ranked matches&quot; of Carcassonne on my XBox.  After a few humiliating losses against the local sharks, it became obvious to me that optimal strategy is probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to concentrate on building your own features, and hope you come out ahead in the final points tally; but to aggressively trap the opponent's meeples in disadvantageous, or preferably completely inescapable, positions - until your usable men outnumber theirs enough that you can dominate the game.  That's if they haven't managed to trap your guys first, of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is that I have a hazier idea of what constitutes a good trap than what some of my better opponents do.  I'll be thinking &quot;aha, you'll never find a tile with three road sides and one city side&quot;, and obviously they draw such a thing straightaway.  Conversely, when they see me making an obvious attempt to block one of their guys in, they'll quickly box themselves in in such a way that it's easy for them to draw the right piece to escape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: is there a list of the different tiles in the basic game of Carcassonne? What positions are impossible to extract a meeple from, and/or what are the easiest spots to draw a good tile to escape from? Help me become as evil and dastardly a Carcassonne player as my opponents!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T15:57:10.470" Title="How To Trap Meeples In 2-Player Carcassonne?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-07-28T17:46:29.347" Score="4" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all of the Loyang I've played, about a dozen games, nobody has reached 20 points. Have you or someone you've played with reached 20 points? If so, what kind of strategy was used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed the following traits among game-winning strategies in the 17-19 point range:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Always&lt;/strong&gt; pay 1 Cash to score 1 point at the end of each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling to &lt;strong&gt;high-end casual customers&lt;/strong&gt; (payouts of 10 or 11) is the easiest way to get 20+ Cash in one turn. You can simply pick them up and hang onto them until you have enough regular customers to get the +2 Cash bonus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get regular customers in the middle of the game&lt;/strong&gt;. Regular customers must be acquired on or before Turn 6 to reach their max payout by game end (Turn 9.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plant all empty private fields&lt;/strong&gt; each turn to ensure an adequate supply of vegetables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, plant the most expensive vegetable each field allows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a cheap two-pack (0 or 1 cash) every turn &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; have lots of market stalls for exchanging vegetables.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, only take followers you intend to use immediately with the exception of game-changers like &lt;strong&gt;Squire&lt;/strong&gt;. Stockpiling helpers for possible later use can end up being dead weight that makes those card picks a waste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these are also applicable to a 20-point strategy? What should be added to or removed from the above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1386" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T20:39:06.687" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T20:39:06.687" Title="How can one reach 20 points in At The Gates of Loyang?" Tags="|at-the-gates-of-loyang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4299" CreationDate="2011-07-28T19:43:48.323" Score="13" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules variants that I can use to speed up a game of Empire Builder?  I love playing Empire Builder, but the fact that it takes so long tends to put off some of my friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T23:50:14.913" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T23:50:14.913" Title="How to speed up a game of Empire Builder?" Tags="|house-rules|variants|crayon-rail-games|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4274" CreationDate="2011-07-28T19:58:41.057" Score="9" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the current legal tournament formats for Magic: The Gathering?  What are the differences/definitions of each format?  At what point do sets rotate in/out of a format?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T20:47:05.020" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T16:44:13.437" Title="What are the legal tournament formats for MtG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4266" CreationDate="2011-07-28T21:29:02.287" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first question is straightforward.  Yes, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://russcon.org/RussCon/carcassonne/tiles.html&quot;&gt;list of the tiles&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is much easier to discuss places where no tile can be placed, rather than meeple traps, although they are obviously related.  The basic game has no tiles with the (unordered) edges {pasture, pasture, road, city} or {pasture, road, city, city}.  It also has no tile with the ordered edges (city, road, city, road).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to use these facts to try to create unfinishable holes next to my opponent's features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're on the ball you can also use the fact that some tiles have already gone.  I usually only use this for spotting whether farmland can easily become connected or not, by keeping track of the six monastery tiles (i.e. the pieces with the most 'pasture connectivity').  In theory you could use this to keep track of other types of tiles too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing - when my opponent has a large city on the go, then it's worth putting in effort to ensure it doesn't get completed.  This can mean adding tiles to open out their city. It is more usual to be trying to create unfillable spaces though, and this is best done by placing tiles to try to hit one of the three combinations above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This applies to the base Carcassonne set.  I played enough with Inns and Cathedrals to learn that set too, but as you add more sets learning the distibution has diminishing returns.  Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/13208/complete-chronological-carcassonne-catalog-and-the&quot;&gt;a full list of the expansions and their tile distributions&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the tile edge combinations exist in one set or another as &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.mrgravell.com/carcassonne-combinations/&quot;&gt;there are only 24&lt;/a&gt; (until you start including river tiles).  There are plenty more tiles designs than that (e.g. two city edges may or may not join on a tile), and they've probably all been done in one expansion or another by now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-07-29T15:57:10.470" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T15:57:10.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4263" CreationDate="2011-07-28T21:40:34.310" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to reduce the number of poison counters that you have is through an effect that restarts the game, like &lt;strong&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/strong&gt;'s third ability. Doing so resets your number of poison counters to zero, as per the &lt;em&gt;New Phyrexia&lt;/em&gt; FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-07-29T02:50:35.313" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T02:50:35.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4272" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-07-28T22:09:54.080" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T22:09:54.080" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T22:09:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4273" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-07-28T22:09:54.080" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-07-28T22:09:54.080" LastActivityDate="2011-07-28T22:09:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4269" CreationDate="2011-07-28T22:20:18.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can visit the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/resources/banned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Banned / Restricted Lists for DCI-Sanctioned Magic: The Gathering Tournaments&lt;/a&gt; page to see a list of formats, plus deck construction rules and a list of banned/restricted cards for each format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of prerelease Limited, new sets enter their appropriate formats on the day of their official release. The specific dates for upcoming sets are spelled out in the &quot;New Releases&quot; section of the most current Magic Tournament Rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a description of each format, plus differences and defining characteristics, is probably overly broad as a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-25T16:44:13.437" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T16:44:13.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8460" CreationDate="2011-07-29T03:17:10.633" Score="9" ViewCount="61420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a newcomer to the Warhammer 40K tabletop miniature game and I'm researching different armies, but I wasn't sure if different Space Marine chapters were compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, could I play an army consisting of Space Wolves, Blood Angels and &quot;regular&quot; Space Marines without raising any eyebrows in &quot;normal&quot; play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="102" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T05:59:38.283" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T12:15:42.870" Title="Can a Space Marine army consist of units from different chapters?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4275" CreationDate="2011-07-29T05:54:19.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you are not allowed to mix-and-match with units from different Codices any which way.  The different books are tuned somewhat to have different strengths and weaknesses.  What's acceptable in 'normal' play is of course up to the people you play with!  If it's something fun and flavourful, most people will probably allow it.  If you pick and choose the best unit in each slot from each Codex, don't expect anyone will allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as of the publication of the 6th edition rulebook in July 2012 an army may have an 'Ally Detachment' containing a limited number of selections from another codex.  An army based on one the Space Marine Codex can include these others as allies, quoting part of Pureferret's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8460/2133&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battle Brothers:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Black_Templars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Templars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Blood_angels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blood Angels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Dark_Angels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dark Angels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Space_Wolves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Space Wolves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allies of Convenience&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Grey_Knight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can paint your models any way you like and have a mix of units from different 'Chapters' as long as the actual rules in use form a legal army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Editing in content from comments:&#xA;There has in the past been a ruling in the Grand Tournament FAQs that if you use an 'official' paint scheme, the army must use the corresponding Codex or the 'vanilla' Codex: Space Marines.  e.g., no Red Marines with blood drops on their shoulders &quot;counting-as&quot; Black Templars.  But red marines with blood drops counting as plain old vanilla codex marines are ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T15:47:18.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4279" CreationDate="2011-07-29T13:30:16.740" Score="10" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people raise the issue of &quot;brailling&quot; tiles and refuse to play with etched in tiles, such as those that which commonly come with a store bought version of Scrabble.  Is this a big deal?  Have there been issues in the past with &quot;brailling&quot; in top-rated tournament play?  Unless if someone is super good at it, I would imagine it would be easy to see if someone is taking too long to draw their tiles.  It seems like too big a fuss for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T11:58:48.037" Title="In Scrabble, What is the big deal with playing with etched in tiles?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4473" CreationDate="2011-07-29T13:43:33.900" Score="7" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;One can do a google search to find which websites and which smart devices have Scrabble applications, but I find that computer players vary widely and are often misclassified.  For example, Lexulous is an example of a site where the computer players are grossly overrated. I remember when I played Scrabble on my iPod (remember those?  I am old) there was also an overrating and the quality of the computer players were relatively poor.  Sometimes, a computer has trouble using 1 or both blanks at the same time, playing tactical Scrabble to open up the board when I try to close the board, and time management (only using a fraction of what they are given).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So where can I find a truly difficult computer opponent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:20:28.763" Title="Which Electronic Scrabble Games / Platforms Offer The Hardest Computer Opponents?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4277" CreationDate="2011-07-29T13:47:43.403" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there is enough of a concern, because according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabble-assoc.com/rules/nsa-rules-200906.html#_Toc218751154&quot;&gt;latest tournament rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tiles that can be distinguished by feel are not permitted, except as deemed appropriate by the Director for players who are blind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, to keep players from swapping tiles with adjacent games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adjacent games should not use identical tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My finger sensitivity isn't good enough to tell tiles apart, but I'm more than certain that people with better-than-normal finger sensitivity could easilty tell tiles apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T13:47:43.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4282" CreationDate="2011-07-29T14:23:45.413" Score="31" ViewCount="34634" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following card is banned in current tournament formats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mx6iG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Equipped creature gets +1/-1.  When equipped creature is put into a graveyard, draw two cards.  Cast 1, equip 1 (artifact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullclamp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when a card is banned, I can figure out what the reason is, but for the life of me I can't figure out why this card is so dangerous. Its ability is &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; but not game-breaking, and I can't think of anything that it would pair with to become game-breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T18:32:38.437" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T20:59:44.147" Title="Why is Skullclamp banned?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4305" CreationDate="2011-07-29T15:40:47.463" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the Move Goods phase you have the option to either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move a good&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your Engine Links&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then each other player goes and you then get a second chance to move a good.  Can you choose the &lt;strong&gt;Increase Engine Link&lt;/strong&gt; option for both goods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T04:02:29.923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T04:02:29.923" Title="Can you link up twice in one turn in Age of Steam?" Tags="|age-of-steam|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2011-07-29T16:21:03.927" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically it's because it buffers you very, very well against creature loss. If you're playing a weenie deck it protects you from deck-clearing spells. Or if you're sacrificing creatures, this card gives you extremely cheap, essentially unlimited new draws. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20181024021008/https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/rules-equipment-2003-09-02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;equip&lt;/a&gt; ability means you can just reuse it over and over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also very wide-ranging - almost any competitive deck is going to be better off having a few of these around, so it distorts the format. The basis for that statement is discussed in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20210911133525/https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/skullclamp-we-hardly-knew-ye-2004-06-04&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very detailed article&lt;/a&gt; from the development team:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skullclamp was banned in Standard, frankly, because it was everywhere.&#xA;Every competitive deck either had four in the main deck, had four in&#xA;the sideboard, or was built to try and defend against it. And there&#xA;were a lot more successful decks in the first two categories than in&#xA;the third. Such representation is completely unhealthy for the format.&#xA;Your deck has to either have Skullclamps, or have Skullclamp in its&#xA;crosshairs—a definitive case of a card “warping the metagame.”&#xA;Look, for example, at the Top 8 decks from Ohio Valley Regionals. Or&#xA;at those from the more recent German Nationals. Combined, those 16&#xA;decks contained 58 out of a possible 64 Skullclamps. Never in my&#xA;memory have I ever seen a card show up in those numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's interesting to note that the development team themselves completely underestimated the power of this card. The story of how it made it to release, discussed in the linked article, is quite fascinating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2023-06-15T20:59:44.147" LastActivityDate="2023-06-15T20:59:44.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2011-07-29T16:21:54.607" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than try to summarize Wizards' reasons for banning the card, have it in their own words: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af17&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af17&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the surface of things this may not &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; obviously broken, but honestly, in the right deck it's an engine that says &quot;pay 1 mana: draw 2 cards&quot;.  As the article points out, at the time all the top decks were playing 4 Clamps; much as Jace, The Mind Sculptor just got banned for being ubiquitous at recent Magic tournaments.  When a card becomes a non-optional 4-of constituent of any competitive deck that hopes to win games, it has to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T16:21:54.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-07-29T16:44:08.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In any card game, a person who draws a bad hand will always be at a disadvantage against someone who draws good cards. That's just the nature of the game. An exception might be someone who draws a &quot;mixed&quot; hand (a technically inferior hand with good chances of improving). Such a hand might be four to a flush or straight versus one or two pair in draw poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a &quot;redraw,&quot; you actually have an advantage, maybe not against the good-drawing player, but against a &quot;random&quot; player. Magic tries to compensate for this fact with the Paris Mulligan rule; the second draw costs you a card, the third, two cards, etc. Then it's up to you to determine whether your starting hand is so bad that it's worth paying the penalty for a redraw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T16:44:08.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3281" CreationDate="2011-07-29T17:32:25.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's more of a party game than a straightforward Nomic substitute, and it's not directly cooperative, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/542/democrazy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Democrazy&lt;/a&gt; is a fun little game where the players vote on rules that modify the game itself. Check out the videos at boardgamegeek for a demonstration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1607" LastActivityDate="2011-07-29T17:32:25.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3281" CreationDate="2011-07-30T02:57:48.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One Thousand Blank White Cards is a DIY card game with nomic qualities; also suitable for forum play. See my collection of card images at &lt;a href=&quot;https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=cf6505871eabaa8e&amp;amp;sc=photos#cid=CF6505871EABAA8E&amp;amp;id=CF6505871EABAA8E%213187&amp;amp;sc=photos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=cf6505871eabaa8e&amp;amp;sc=photos#cid=CF6505871EABAA8E&amp;amp;id=CF6505871EABAA8E%213187&amp;amp;sc=photos&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1609" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T02:57:48.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-07-30T03:27:59.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paper Football (Canadian-style): You get three downs to pitch a paper football from one side of a table to the other. Spectators can run a drinking pool; whenever the score includes your number, you must drink. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoom_Schwartz_Profigliano&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zoom Schwartz Figliano&lt;/a&gt;: Use specific terms and actions to pass the game from player to player; foulers drink.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1kbwc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One Thousand Blank White Cards&lt;/a&gt;: A DIY nomic card game; use the back of business cards, or scraps of paper to play. Include drinking if you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forum Games: For example, &quot;my cookie&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1609" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T21:27:03.400" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T21:27:03.400" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-07-30T05:55:16.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One advantage the xbox version has over RL is that it can shuffle the deck instantly, whereas in RL it take a bit of time to shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other card games take alternate routes to make it work with less mulligans needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Universal Fighting System: To mulligan you remove your hand from the game and draw a new one. Only one Mull is allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magi-Nation: Depending on your starting Magi you search through your deck and pick out 2-3 cards and then draw the rest of your hand afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commander (MTG Variant): Partial Mulligans. You set aside any number of cards and draw that many from your deck. You may do this again drawing one less card than you set aside, until you are happy with your hand or run out of cards. Then you shuffle all of your set aside cards into your deck. Note that Commander (or EDH) has a 100 card deck size, and no duplication rule so this might not work as well for regular magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm not suggesting that time saving is the only reason for less lenient Mulligan rules, but I would posit that it is a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T15:35:08.840" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T15:35:08.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bananagrams is an obvious choice. Each person plays scrabble on their own without a board. The goal is to use up all your tiles before the other people do. It's extremely portable, and very quick to play. There's also nothing that can get ruined from a spilled drink. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ksn4O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Banangrams&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27225/bananagrams&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bananagrams&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A less well-known choice is Spot It! It looks like a children's game, but it's an all ages game. Just a deck of circular cards. Also extremely portable in its protective tin. Each card has a variety of symbols on it. Every card in the deck has exactly one symbol matching with every other card in the deck. There are a variety of different games you can play with this deck of cards. Our favorite is the bomb mode, and we modified it to make our own mode, two-fisted bomb mode. You don't even need a table to play this game, you can play standing up. Play is also extremely fast. You can get an entire round in while waiting for the bartender to make your drink, depending on the mode you have selected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MbahA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spot It!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/63268/spot-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spot It!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-30T12:49:06.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4277" CreationDate="2011-07-31T06:15:36.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Etched in tiles can be readily rejected by feel by many players. Picking the right ones is harder than rejecting the Q or Z you're not going to use with your other tiles, but is still a huge advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can, with inset tiles, often tell when I've got a Q or a Z. Or, I used to be able to; it's been YEARS since I've played. But against friends who couldn't or didn't, I was able to get more tiles I could readily play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, it's not a hard skill to practice and to learn, and may not even be consciously done by some players. Even some painted-on-letter tiles have sufficient texture differences to be felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, there is a good basis for the rules against etched titles. It's to keep the game about winning with random draws, rather than feeling for the tile you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T06:15:36.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4294" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:00:29.417" Score="6" ViewCount="58968" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I sell properties in Monopoly with houses to another player for a cost w/o mortgaging the property to the bank ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1613" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-07-31T21:00:51.573" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T16:51:10.073" Title="Can I sell properties in Monopoly with houses to another player ?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1478" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:02:02.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a board game called Anti-Monopoly. The concept's a little different from Monopoly , its just the opposite :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1613" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T18:02:02.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4292" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:17:05.710" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unimproved properties, railroads and utilities (but not buildings) may be sold to any player as a private transaction for any amount the owner can get. However, no property can be sold to another player if buildings are standing on any properties of that colour-group. Any buildings so located must be sold back to the Bank before the owner can sell any property of that colour-group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Houses and Hotels may be sold back to the Bank at any time for one-half the price paid for them. All houses on one colour-group may be sold at once, or they may be sold one house at a time (one hotel equals five houses), evenly, in reverse of the manner in which they were erected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm#sellingproperty&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm#sellingproperty&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The following page is a copy of the rules as printed in the Monopoly® Rule Book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1614" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2023-05-28T16:51:10.073" LastActivityDate="2023-05-28T16:51:10.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4298" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:24:44.843" Score="8" ViewCount="2548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I sell a house from a property that I own and buy it in the same round from the bank again ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is an edge case of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/925&quot;&gt;What happens when you need to tear-down a hotel but no houses are in the bank in Monopoly?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1613" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T04:46:39.307" Title="Sell and Buy houses from bank in the same round?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="282" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:30:27.507" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snakes_and_Ladders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snakes and Ladders&lt;/a&gt; is a very interesting game if you want to play with children .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1613" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T18:30:27.507" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-07-31T18:30:27.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4302" CreationDate="2011-07-31T18:39:36.407" Score="16" ViewCount="18591" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I create my own version of Monopoly and distribute it online or physically ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that there were patents filed in 1923 . Can I create an improvement on the existing game and sell it online ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is any law/copyright protecting this, is it per country/continent ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1613" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-01T14:13:56.983" LastActivityDate="2020-02-18T21:23:25.507" Title="Can I create my own version of Monopoly and distribute it ?" Tags="|monopoly|game-development|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4295" CreationDate="2011-07-31T20:59:58.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the current rules at Hasbro&lt;/a&gt;, under the &lt;strong&gt;Selling Property&lt;/strong&gt; section (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Houses and hotels may be sold back to the Bank &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;at any time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for one-half the price paid for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then from the &lt;strong&gt;Houses&lt;/strong&gt; section (emphasis mine again):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you own all the properties in a color-group you may buy houses from the Bank and erect them on those properties.  If you buy one house, you may put it on any one of those&#xA;  properties. The next house you buy must be erected on one of the unimproved properties of this or any other complete color-group you may own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The price you must pay the Bank for each house is shown on your Title Deed card for the property on which you erect the house. The owner still collects double rent from an opponent who lands on the unimproved properties of his/her complete color-group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Following the above rules, you may buy and erect &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;at any time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as&#xA;  many houses as your judgement and financial standing will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I see no reason why you couldn't sell a house and buy it back again in the same round.  Just remember that you have to sell houses evenly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-07-31T20:59:58.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2011-08-01T03:23:09.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One &lt;em&gt;dis-recommendation&lt;/em&gt;: don't lower the amount of money for the win condition.  The game advances through phases from initial building (limited range) to networking to running those few big deals that are finally possible late in the game.  By reducing the win condition you'd be cutting out that last phase and that can be a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tested recommendations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Setup: alphabetize the goods if you haven't already so &quot;banking&quot; is fast.  This is huge, as otherwise looking through a bunch of different goods with tiny pictures is a pain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check BoardGameGeek for player aids.  It can be hard to study the map to plan your move without getting in the way of the active player, but a copy of the map can help (not so much with detailed track planning, but with &quot;where the heck is $city on this map?&quot; planning.  Granted that should be less of a problem on a map of one's own country, but it still helps.)  Similarly, make sure everybody has the &quot;where does this good come from?&quot; card for planning.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase starting money by 20 and add one more round of initial building.  I've tried this a few times with Iron Dragon with experienced players.  The effect was to increase the value of those first early runs, thus jump-starting track building.  It didn't make a huge difference in elapsed time (maybe 10%), but it did cut down on the early feelings of angst and futility that can come with unfortunate cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Untested ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow each player some small number of &quot;I hate this card&quot; redraws, without the cost of a full-round flush.  I would limit this to the early stages of the game -- maybe up to three uses while your money remains under 100.  The idea is to soften those &quot;aw, crap, I guess I could go there for 10&quot; runs that don't really help you except to flush the card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If time is being lost because inexperienced players can't plan their turns in advance, consider some scheme for parallel turns.  Play is largely non-interactive, after all.  Maybe a player and the one opposite him at the table can go at the same time so long as they aren't competing for the same pip, goods token, etc?  (If so, turn order wins.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think any of these would damage the spirit of the game, unlike, say, removing some calamities from the deck would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T17:36:14.210" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T17:36:14.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-01T06:04:56.353" Score="8" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I have a one hour window to play, I try this game, and it tends to take more like 2 hours. So far, I find the negotiating really entertaining - so I'm not sure if I want to go crazy trying to enforce time constraints on play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box says a game takes 45 minutes. Does that hold true for anyone? Are there things you do that speed up the game that don't feel heavy handed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T15:00:23.847" Title="How do we speed things up in Bohnanza?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2011-08-01T09:50:16.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One obvious route would be to run through the deck only twice instead of three times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably not ideal, but it would keep your games down to a manageable length of time while people get to grips with the trading aspect.  I do think, as I said in my comment, that 2 hours is an excessive amount of time for a game of Bohnanza to take, and I suspect that as you get a bit more comfortable with how it works, trading options/decisions will become more obvious, and you'll definitely get it down to below an hour.  (If you can't, then identify the biggest slowcoaches and just refuse to trade with them unless they speed up their play!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T09:50:16.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4297" CreationDate="2011-08-01T15:07:24.990" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would likely be more concerned with copyright law rather than patent law in this case, especially given that as you have noticed, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_board_game_Monopoly#Legal_status&quot;&gt;the patents have expired&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is something of a precedent for what you want to do. In 1975, Ralph Anspach made a game called Anti-Monopoly (which, by the way, is a pretty interesting game - we owned it, and at the time, as a kid, I had no idea how significant this was). After a little less than ten years of litigation, Anspach &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_board_game_Monopoly#Anti-Monopoly.2C_Inc._vs._General_Mills_Fun_Group.2C_Inc._court_case_1976.E2.80.931985&quot;&gt;won the right&lt;/a&gt; to continue publishing his game. However, Parker Brothers ended up with the trademark, licensing it to Anspach, whose game is still in print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably need to be aware of how copyright law works where you live and where you plan to distribute the game. (If you're thinking about online distribution, then that may mean laws where your customers live, not just where you live or where the servers are.) If you are planning on making money from this, you should consult with a lawyer to ensure that what you're doing is consistent with applicable laws; advice you get on this site is no substitute for professional advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T15:07:24.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-08-01T16:47:28.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Steam rather than Age of Steam, but I think it's similar?  In any case, I found this clarification on &lt;a href=&quot;http://members.fortunecity.co.uk/hopalong/faqaos.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an online Age of Steam FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q4. As mentioned in the section titled &quot;Moving Goods&quot;, a player may&#xA;  forego shipment during a round in order to &quot;increment&quot; his engine link&#xA;  level. It does not specify in the rules by how many links a player may&#xA;  increment his engine, only that the maximum is 6 links. Can a player&#xA;  increment his links by more than one per round? In other words, can I&#xA;  go straight from a 2 link engine directly to a 6 link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A4. You can only move your engine level up by 1 for foregoing 1 cube&#xA;  shipment. You are only allowed to do this once per goods movement&#xA;  phase. Note that the word &quot;increment&quot; means &quot;To increase the amount of&#xA;  ONE unit&quot;. Also be aware that if you get the Engineer you can still&#xA;  forego a shipment in order to get a maximum upgrade of +2 on the turn&#xA;  as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't vouch for the accuracy of this ruling, but it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; tally with what I seem to remember from playing Steam, that you couldn't just increase your Engine madly early on, it was a slow, gradual process.  So I'd say once per goods movement phase sounds like a pretty safe bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T16:47:28.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4281" CreationDate="2011-08-01T19:19:21.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the game, and dug out the rules to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under section 5, &lt;em&gt;Move Goods&lt;/em&gt;, it states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In ONE of the two opportunities to Move Goods, the player may instead&#xA;  opt to move their disk on the Engine Track up one link. The maximum&#xA;  number of links is still 6 links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you may not use the Increase Engine Link option twice, and move no goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2011-08-01T19:19:21.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4297" CreationDate="2011-08-01T23:29:22.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of Monopoly &quot;knock-offs.&quot; I believe, for example, that Playboy created one called &quot;Speculation&quot; set in Chicago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game CONCEPTS are not copyrightable. What IS copyrightable is &quot;text&quot; regarding rules, properties, etc. Basically, if you apply the grade school test, &quot;write it in your own words,&quot; you're probably ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most gamers have played the game, so you won't get any mileage out of the game itself. What MIGHT appeal is a local version aimed at specific audiences. Perhaps one set in Bombay (Mumbai) for Indians or Hong Kong (for Chinese), using local street names, currencies, etc. Or one in cyberspace for &quot;techies.&quot; The currency amounts are the things that are most &quot;out of date&quot; in the original Monopoly game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-08-03T19:39:07.887" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T19:39:07.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-02T09:58:01.237" Score="7" ViewCount="2212" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine and I were playing the Knights vs Dragons duel deck.  He had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243434&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kinsbaile Cavalier&lt;/a&gt;&#xA; upon which he equipped the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243448&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loxodon Warhammer&lt;/a&gt;.  On my next turn, I proceeded to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Temporary Insanity&lt;/a&gt; to attack him with his knight.  I then followed that up by summoning a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Voracious Dragon&lt;/a&gt; and using its ability to devour the Kinsbaile Cavalier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was hoping for a couple of rule clarifications, to ensure that the sequence we did was valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By playing &quot;Temporary Insanity&quot;, I gain control of his creature and any equipment or creature enchantments applied to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If my friend wanted, he could pay the 3 colorless equipment cost, to equip the hammer on another one of his creatures (even before the creature returned to his side of the field.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the knight is on my side of the field (if only for a turn), I am able to devour it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After devouring the knight, the Warhammer returns to my friend's side of the field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1620" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T11:34:46.187" Title="In MTG what happens to equipment after playing &quot;Temporary Insanity&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2011-08-02T10:31:12.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) You gain control &lt;strong&gt;of his creature&lt;/strong&gt;.  You don't gain control of any equipment or creature enchantments. However, that's not to say that those equipment or auras unattach themselves, or cease to have their effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Your friend can indeed pay an equipment cost for an equipment he controls, that is currently attached to a creature that another player controls.  Of course, the normal timing rules still apply (i.e. he has to wait until he could play a Sorcery, in his turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) You are certainly able to devour the knight, as it is a creature that you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Yes, the Warhammer returns.  At every point it is controlled by your opponent; it's only the fact that it was attached to an enemy creature that meant it passed over to your side of the table.  (Just to clarify, at no point could &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; pay the Warhammer's equip cost to attach it to different creature - only your opponent has the power to attach his own equipment!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T10:31:12.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4308" CreationDate="2011-08-02T11:34:46.187" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to enhance @thesunneversets's answer, here are the answers from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer 1:  No, you only gain control of the creature, not the equipment.  From 301.5d:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Equipment’s controller is separate from the equipped creature’s controller; the two need not be the same. &lt;strong&gt;Changing control of the creature doesn’t change control of the Equipment, and vice versa.&lt;/strong&gt; Only the Equipment’s controller can activate its abilities. However, if the Equipment grants an ability to the equipped creature (with “gains” or “has”), the equipped creature’s controller is the only one who can activate that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer 2: Not in this case.  While he has control of the equipment, you can only equip as a sorcery, and you can't play sorceries on someone else's turn.  Again from 301.5d:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Equipment’s controller is separate from the equipped creature’s controller; the two need not be the same. Changing control of the creature doesn’t change control of the Equipment, and vice versa. &lt;strong&gt;Only the Equipment’s controller can activate its abilities. However, if the Equipment grants an ability to the equipped creature (with “gains” or “has”), the equipped creature’s controller is the only one who can activate that ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then from 702.6a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. &lt;strong&gt;“Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer 3:  This is valid.  Devour has you sacrifice creatures, and you can only sacrifice creatures you control.  The creature you devour would go back to its owner's graveyard (in this case, your opponent's graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.80a: Devour is a static ability. “Devour N” means “As this object enters the battlefield, you may sacrifice any number of creatures. This permanent enters the battlefield with N +1/+1 counters on it for each creature sacrificed this way.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.13a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. &lt;strong&gt;A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control.&lt;/strong&gt; Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 4:  Yes, the Equipment would return to your friend's side of the table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.3d To “unattach” an Equipment from a creature means to move it away from that creature so the Equipment is on the battlefield but is not equipping anything. &lt;strong&gt;It should no longer be physically touching any creature. If an Aura, Equipment, or Fortification that was attached to something ceases to be attached to it, that counts as “becoming unattached”; this includes if that object and/or that Aura, Equipment, or Fortification leaves the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;403.1. Most of the area between the players represents the battlefield. The battlefield starts out empty. &lt;strong&gt;Permanents a player controls are normally kept in front of him or her on the battlefield, though there are some cases (such as an Aura attached to another player’s permanent) when a permanent one player controls is kept closer to a different player.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T11:34:46.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-08-02T14:41:21.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;RA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ra has simple mechanics, but interesting AI since it's a competitive auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T14:41:21.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2011-08-02T17:03:42.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on the variant that you're playing. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/misc/pegsandjokers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; lists the rules that come into play here. First, the basic rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the basic game, except in special circumstances described below, you may only move your own pegs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When playing a 7, you may either move one of your pegs forward 7 holes, or split the 7 between two of your pegs, moving them 1 and 6, 2 and 5 or 3 and 4 holes forwards. Of course the split move can only be made if you have at least two pegs in play.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When, and only when, all five of your pegs are in the home (safe) position, occupying the five holes of your home track, you use your turn to move the pegs of your left-hand partner, if that player still has playable pegs. If left partner's pegs are also all home, you move the pegs of the next partner around the table who still has playable pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I read this, the ability to move your partner's pegs depends on the state of the game at the start of your turn. Player A still has pegs out, so he would not be able to split the 7 with his partner's peg; he only has one peg out, so he could not split the 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're using Arizona Rules, then it would be allowed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Throughout the game, you may move &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; of the pegs belonging to your team (so for example any of 20 pegs in the 8-player game with 4 on each team). Therefore you may discard without moving only if you are unable to play a card (other than a joker) that moves any of your team's pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this situation is explicitly mentioned in the North Carolina Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As in the basic game, you can only move your own pegs until your last peg is home. After that you move the pegs of the partner nearest to your left. You can use a split move to take your last peg home and move your left hand partner's peg with the remainder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it's explicitly mentioned in the last variant, I do not think it is permitted in basic play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-08-02T17:03:42.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-03T06:04:03.177" Score="6" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;When picking up destination cards, after the initial deal, does the card(s) which the player chooses to discard, have to be from the three he picked up at that time, or can he discard a card which he picked up from a previous turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1622" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:14:29.143" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:14:29.143" Title="When drawing Destination Tickets, can you discard any Destination Tickets or only those you just drew?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-03T06:09:06.777" Score="13" ViewCount="4006" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules that come with the game do not specifically state the a route (between two cities) can be included in more than one destination string, but this is assumed when we play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is that a correct assumption?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1622" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:09:45.910" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:09:45.910" Title="Can a route be included in more than one destination ticket?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4314" CreationDate="2011-08-03T08:17:17.390" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards you discard/return must be from the three you drew this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; phrase it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player draws 3 Destination Tickets from the top of the deck. He must keep at least one of them, but he may&#xA;  keep two or all three if he chooses. Any returned cards are placed on the bottom of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not so much that you &quot;discard&quot; destination tickets, but rather that you draw 3 and keep from 1 to 3 new destinations.  This means that any destinations you were already holding are totally unaffected - you're stuck with 'em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T08:17:17.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4315" CreationDate="2011-08-03T08:19:59.807" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The section about scoring says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players should then reveal all their Destination Tickets and add (or subtract) the value of their Destination Tickets still in hand, based on whether&#xA;  they successfully (or not) connected those cities together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only thing that matters is whether those cities are connected to each other. It's very possible that all your routes will share a single link across the middle of the country, and that's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T08:19:59.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2011-08-03T13:50:14.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would approach this on two levels: 1) the game, and 2) the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a purely GAMING point of view, I see nothing wrong with it. &quot;Blocking&quot; is a feature of most games. And in most games, &quot;it's all relative,&quot; meaning that it pays to make a move that may hurt you some, but your opponent more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think twice about using such tactics if your opponent was your wife. Because it could cost you in some other arenas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I once wrote a short story about a &quot;mixed&quot; couple playing &quot;mixed doubles&quot; tennis, &quot;we were both pulling our punches because it was our [respective] mates on the other side of the net.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T13:50:14.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2011-08-03T14:43:19.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think such rules make sense either. Because it puts too heavy a penalty on attacking neutrals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking neutrals is not something that should be done lightly, and there should be a penalty. Maybe that penalty should be that all (threatened) neutrals in a particular REGION (e.g. Europe), go over to the non-attacking side. But MOST neutrals will understand such a move if it is made for a reason that is quite clear will not apply to them. Such a case may be made for a neutral on say, a DIFFERENT continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd limit (but not eliminate) the impact of attacking one neutral on other neutrals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-03T14:43:19.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4461" CreationDate="2011-08-03T14:55:29.623" Score="28" ViewCount="131592" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print cards for my game, &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; using a commercially-available site.  Basically, I'm looking for materials I could find in a store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I make these cards in a work- and price-efficient way, making sure that they look nice afterward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards should be able to be shuffled, much like poker cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am building a Print and Play game, but so far I am not satisfied with the cards I was able to make. I tried printing them on thin paper and mounting on poker cards, and printing them on thicker paper. However both of these methods make the cards pretty much unfit for shuffling, since the paper goes off while shuffling. I saw that the game &quot;Twilight Imperium&quot; printed their cards on thin plastic. Is it possible to buy something like that and print directly onto the material?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr:&#xA;Mounting paper-printed cards on playing cards does not work.&#xA;Are there any good material out there that you can print on directly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1598" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T00:07:20.133" LastActivityDate="2019-04-16T18:45:01.063" Title="What is the best way to print cards for my game?" Tags="|game-design|playing-cards|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2011-08-04T05:37:34.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A drastic variant would be to make the last two phases of a turn simultaneous after a whole round of everyone doing the first couple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A plants 1, turns up 2 trades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B plants 2, turns up 2 trades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C plants 1, turns up 2 trades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone trades at once until all beans have been traded or planted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone draws three cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resume with the next 1st player (1st player rotates)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in general, I agree with the other advice that simply more experience should hasten the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="1531" LastEditDate="2011-08-07T15:03:53.813" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T15:03:53.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-04T11:00:19.190" Score="2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worthingtongames.com/detailCG.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Caesar's Gallic War&lt;/a&gt; by Worthington games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I locate similarly themed games that focus on Caesar's campaigns in Gaul and Britannia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1623" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T06:36:00.613" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T06:36:00.613" Title="How can I find games based on Caesar's campaigns in Gaul and Britannia?" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2011-08-04T14:45:40.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had it take more than an hour, even with 6 people. Odds are you guys are analyzing the trades too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a variant I always play with that I think improves the game immensely, and that's &lt;strong&gt;play with everyone's hand face-up in front of them&lt;/strong&gt;. This makes it easy to see who has what, so you won't have to ask 'does anyone have a blue bean?' because you can just look around the table and see for yourself. If anything, this actually adds more strategy to the game as you can use what other players have more to your advantage: &quot;Normally this wouldn't be a good trade, but since you're going to have to plant that next turn and prematurely harvest one of your valuable fields why don't you do it anyway?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still find this doesn't speed things up, you can try one of these variants to adjust when the end of the game arrives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have everyone draw one more card per turn, 4 instead of 3 in a 3-5 player game and 5 instead of 4 in a 6-7 player game. This is probably the least intrusive as just gives you more trading options.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only go through the deck 2 times instead of 3. This will make for a shorter game, but IMHO it's a little less interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put a timer on 45 minutes and stop at the end of the players turn when it goes off. This should only be an absolute last resort, but it will make people play a bit faster since they know that they only have a limited amount of time. Of course, you'll have to be careful people don't purposely waste time to deny their left-hand opponent that last turn he needs to plant his cocoa been before time runs out...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-08-04T14:45:40.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4329" CreationDate="2011-08-05T00:33:06.830" Score="19" ViewCount="15316" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Special Event cards all indicate they may be played &quot;at any time&quot;. Are there any restrictions to &quot;any time&quot;, i.e. in the middle of someone's turn? Suppose an epidemic card has been drawn -- can the airlift card be played while the epidemic steps are being applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1632" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T15:09:34.567" Title="Special event cards and timing" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="823" CreationDate="2011-08-05T00:45:11.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the official part, GW has also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/astronomican.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Astronomican&lt;/a&gt; with some articles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the unnoficial, apart from the already mentioned Lexicanum, &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;warhammer40k.wikia.com&lt;/a&gt; has also a lot of background (generic, not as unit-level deep as Lexicanum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T00:45:11.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2011-08-05T00:48:29.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Bell of Lost Souls, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2011/05/hobby-full-water-bases.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article about water bases&lt;/a&gt; looks really awesome. Might be what you are searching for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T00:48:29.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4325" CreationDate="2011-08-05T01:53:45.873" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/327192/special-events-and-epidemics-timing&quot;&gt;was answered by Matt Leacock&lt;/a&gt;, the designer of Pandemic, on BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can play the cards at any time, however, you can't play them&#xA;  between an event and the representation of the event on the board.&#xA;  Some scenarios may help explain this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scenario 1: Player #1 has a Special Event card for &quot;Resilient&#xA;  Population.&quot; During the draw, an Epidemic card is drawn. Since an&#xA;  Epidemic card was drawn, player #1 decides to play their Special Event&#xA;  card to remove a city from the infection discard pile before they are&#xA;  reshuffled. This is legal because the card was played before the cards&#xA;  were reshuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scenario 2: A player may use the Forecast card to rearrange the cards&#xA;  on the top of the infection deck before they're drawn -- but once a&#xA;  card is drawn, the player can't rearrange the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scenario 3: The Red disease has been [cured but not eradicated]. A player draws the&#xA;  Taipei card which results in the 8th outbreak. Since no time elapses&#xA;  between the drawing of the Taipei card (resulting in the infection)&#xA;  and the placing of the cubes (representing the infection), the players&#xA;  lose the game. It's not OK to Airlift the medic over to Taipei to cure&#xA;  because the cubes have already been added and the game has already&#xA;  been lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your specific example, yes you can play the Airlift card, if you do so between Epidemic steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T15:15:03.463" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T15:15:03.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2011-08-05T07:20:49.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's impossible to outline a universal winning strategy, but I'll chip in with some tips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't always need to have the strongest military, but it's usually a bad idea to have the weakest. If you're relatively close behind the player(s) with the most military, it's quite easy to ramp it up in the event of a war.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Familiarize yourself with the event cards, they change character from age to age. Ancient events are presents for everyone. Age I and II are where you're rewarded for being best at something, and punished for being worst. Age III is purely culture gains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More civil actions are good, to a point (combine with yellow cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1637" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T07:20:49.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4333" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:05:47.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I played a deck with the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205319&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mage Slayer&lt;/a&gt; against a deck with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=204978&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mystifying Maze&lt;/a&gt;. I equipped a creature with Mage Slayer and attacked. My opponent reacted by exiling the equipped creature with his Mystifying Maze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability of Mage Slayer triggers and resolves in the declare attackers step. Can Mystifying Maze prevent this? It can only target attacking creatures, therefor it can only be used once the attackers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the correct ruling in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T15:56:38.310" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T16:06:11.453" Title="Which effect triggers first in MTG: Mage Slayer or Mystifying Maze" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4334" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:19:45.650" Score="20" ViewCount="90861" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Magic:The Gathering&lt;/strong&gt; it is possible to trigger abilities of creatures at the same time you can play instants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play it that I can block with a creature and sacrifice it at the same time. The attacking creature blocked this ways does not deal damage because the blocking creature is gone - and I get the bonus for the sacrifice (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25625&quot;&gt;Blood Pet&lt;/a&gt; gives me an extra B-Mana).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a recent discussion the topic came up again. It seems like the rulings even allow for the blocking player to wait until the damage is put on the stack. Once the damage is on the stack, I can sacrifice my creature, gain the benefits from the sacrifice ability AND deal damage to the attacking create. In my Blood Pet example I would be able to kill an attacking creature with toughness 1 and get 1 B-Mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Where can I find the official ruling that clarifies that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T14:25:39.193" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T19:57:02.667" Title="What happens when I sacrifice a blocking creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4331" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:26:02.677" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mystifying Maze can't prevent the Mage Slayer ability from resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It helps to visualise the stack.  As you declare your attack, the Mage Slayer ability triggers and is put on the stack.  In response, your opponent activates his Mystifying Maze and puts this ability on the stack.  Everyone passes, Mystifying Maze's ability at the top of the stack resolves, the creature is exiled.  Now we get to Mage Slayer's ability, still on the stack.  The creature may currently be exiled, but the ability still resolves (and uses last known information to determine the creature's power and toughness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no window to use the Mystifying Maze's ability before Mage Slayer can trigger; at any point before the trigger the creature is not yet an attacker, and is therefore an invalid target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="3156" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T17:59:15.083" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T17:59:15.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2011-08-05T10:32:49.363" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a fairly long period of time ending with Magic 2010 when you could put damage on the stack, and then play instants and abilities before the damage resolved.  Those days are over!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, you declare blockers, and then both players have a chance to play spells and abilities.  Once everyone is finished doing this, we move onto the combat damage phase, and only then do creatures even start thinking about dealing damage to each other.  If you sacrificed your creature after declaring it as a blocker, then it never gets an opportunity to deal damage, I'm afraid!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One corner case: if your creature has First Strike and also a sacrifice ability, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; have it deal its first strike damage and then sacrifice it in the window of opportunity both players have to play spells and effects before normal combat damage.  Try &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Turn_structure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; for a handy breakdown of when players have a chance to do things in the course of a Magic game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/magic-2010-rules-change-2009-06-10&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic 2010 Rule Change&lt;/a&gt;, explaining some of the latest changes made to the game rules, particularly section 5, about combat damage not using the stack.  Much more readable than the Comprehensive Rulebook, I think you'll find...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-12-11T17:20:51.897" LastActivityDate="2017-12-11T17:20:51.897" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4362" CreationDate="2011-08-05T13:13:27.900" Score="2" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;An example appears to be betting when you have only four of  straight or flush (with more cards coming), meaning that you can't (yet) beat say, a pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a &quot;value&quot; bet of some sort (perhaps depending on the number players)? Is this mainly a bluff? Or could there be some &quot;strategic&quot; reason for making such a move, perhaps for future hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T06:47:50.157" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T06:47:50.157" Title="In Poker, What is the Significance of &quot;Betting on the Come&quot;" Tags="|poker|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4337" CreationDate="2011-08-05T14:39:38.063" Score="5" ViewCount="5309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time I checked, there were some issues of contention with how the Spanish alphabet should be represented such as c+h vs ch, l vs ll, r vs rr and borrow letters such as k and w not used for Spanish words.  If I were to play with a Spanish tileset, which dictionary should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T14:46:10.037" Title="Is there an official Spanish Scrabble Dictionary?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4336" CreationDate="2011-08-05T14:46:10.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a nice picture of a Spanish tileset that I found: h&lt;a href=&quot;http://gtoal.com/wordgames/details/spanish/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ttp://gtoal.com/wordgames/details/spanish/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That page links through to the FISE webpages (Federacion Internacional de Scrabble en Espanol), where it is claimed that as of 2009:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;El diccionario oficial de Scrabble es la versión 1.0-2003 (edición&#xA;  electrónica) del Diccionario de la lengua española de la Real Academia&#xA;  Española (DRAE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps your investigations!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T14:46:10.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-05T15:20:48.430" Score="9" ViewCount="118483" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a great time playing Hearts, Spades, and Euchre with 4 players.  Oftentimes though we have three people available to play but not a fourth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I find card games that are interesting for 3 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1640" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T23:36:40.890" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T23:36:40.890" Title="Card Games for Three Players?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:34:37.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4343" CreationDate="2011-08-05T19:50:22.497" Score="21" ViewCount="13312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://dragonhighlander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elder Dragon Highlander&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/ProductArticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/commander/productinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander&lt;/a&gt;, and found it to be a ton of fun.  I've started customizing one of the pre-cons I got, but I'm a little confused by some of the deck-building requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the deck-building rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A card's color identity is its color plus the color of any mana symbols in the card's rules text. A card's color identity is established before the game begins, and cannot be changed by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards in a deck may not have any colors in their identity which are not shared with the commander of the deck. (The identity of each card in the deck must be a subset of the General's) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm using &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/cmd/en/181.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Animar, Soul of the Elements&lt;/a&gt; as my general, my deck's identity is Red, Blue and Green.  I couldn't use &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ala/en/222.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crumbling Necropolis&lt;/a&gt; in my deck, because it has a black mana symbol in the rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is:&lt;/strong&gt;  can I add a card to my deck that has the phrase &quot;Add one mana of any color to your mana pool&quot; (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/som/en/179.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mox Opal&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/cfx/en/141.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ancient Ziggurat&lt;/a&gt;)?  Even though those cards &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; conceivably add black mana to my mana pool, they don't have a black or white (or any for that matter) mana symbol in their rules text, so they would be valid for inclusion in any deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T19:38:27.467" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T14:10:45.893" Title="Can I use a card with &quot;Add one mana of any color to your mana pool&quot; in any Elder Dragon Highlander (EDH) deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-05T19:55:03.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to get a three person game is to take a two person game with an extra person. Poker is the one that immediately comes to mind. . It's also possible to have &quot;three handed&quot; gin rummy, with one dealer and two players in every game. The loser of one game becomes the dealer of the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible, but harder, to downgrade a four person game into three. In a pinch, I've played &quot;three handed bridge.&quot; Deal out all four hands, highest bidder gets dummy, score each person separately. On the other hand, &quot;go fish,&quot; often a four player game, can be downgraded to three relatively easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-05T19:55:03.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4341" CreationDate="2011-08-05T20:06:43.963" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/downloads/CMD_FAQ_EN.rtf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;text file&lt;/a&gt; found on the page you linked to with Commander info has a better description of the rules that clears this up. The important parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A card can't be included in your deck if any mana symbol in its mana&#xA;  cost or rules text is a color not in your commander's color identity.&#xA;  A card also can't be included in your deck if it has a&#xA;  characteristic-defining ability defining it to be a color not in your&#xA;  commander's color identity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards don't have mana symbols, so you are good on that front. Yes, you could include those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragonhighlander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=18057&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a January 18, 2016 change to rule 4&lt;/a&gt;, you can now use those cards to add any colour of mana to your mana pool, including Black &amp;amp; White mana if you're using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAnimar%2c%20Soul%20of%20Elements%5d&quot;&gt;Animar, Soul of Elements&lt;/a&gt; who has neither in its identity. &lt;strong&gt;Historically&lt;/strong&gt;, if you tried to add a colour of mana to your pool that wasn't in your commander's identity, it would just add colourless mana instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2018-09-26T05:35:24.237" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T05:35:24.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-06T01:34:53.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/500rum.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;500 Rummy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is the best game of the rummy family IMHO, and it works well with any number from 2-5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/jass/klabberjass.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;klabberjass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a trick taking game that works only with 3. I'll admit upfront that I've never played, but I assume its a good 3 player game as no other amount can play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bantha.org/~develin/cardgames.html#ch8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;psychological jujitsu&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is great with 3. It's a game of skillful bluffing and psychological matching of wits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egyptian_Ratscrew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Egyptian Ratscrew&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is really fun with anywhere from 2-6. It's a game of speed, so if you're group doesn't like moments where you're all racing to slap a pile of cards, then I wouldn't try it. But try it at least once, it's a lot more fun than it sounds. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T01:34:53.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1184" CreationDate="2011-08-06T07:13:11.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since nobody else seems to have made any new games for Sly, I &lt;a href=&quot;http://donkirkby.blogspot.com/2011/08/sly-corporation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;did it myself&lt;/a&gt;. Well, I guess some credit should go to Eric Solomon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T07:13:11.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-06T08:23:31.893" Score="10" ViewCount="2247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Robo Rally is a fun game but the option cards totally break it if a person just sits on the wrench and hammer and collects them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried a house rule to discourage this behaviour?  How did it work out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1643" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-07T05:32:02.637" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T02:17:02.487" Title="Robo Rally - Alternative rules for option cards?" Tags="|house-rules|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2002" CreationDate="2011-08-06T22:07:21.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the whole, I would say that dice games lend themselves more to non hardcore gamers than card games. The idea is to move pieces around the board, either in a &quot;race&quot; with others, parchesi or backgammon, or achieving objectives along the way; Monopoly, Easy Money, Life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among card games, those using the &quot;standard&quot; 52-card deck are better for non hardcore gamers; gin rummy, spades, bridge, poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games using &quot;specialized&quot; cards peculiar to the game are harder, especially if they require a long set up time. Agricola, Puerto Rico, etc. I'd even put Axis and Allies (with its specialized cards) in that category, even though it's technically a dice game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T22:07:21.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2011-08-06T22:36:56.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In tournaments, there is no time limit, official or unofficial &lt;em&gt;for a hand or trick&lt;/em&gt;; taking 5 minutes to play to the first trick is not unusual.  Tournaments don't grind to a halt (i) because there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; usually a time limit for a section or session (so you play most hands quickly and have time to spare on the tricky ones) and (ii) because by the time somebody has reached tournament level, he or she will have enough experience to recognize the simple situations (draw trumps/crossruff, duck a trick/cash winners), and will only take a long time for genuinely complex decisions.  The &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; way to reach this point, I am sorry to say, is practice. Find a group who take the game seriously enough to take time over it: join a duplicate club: make a mental note after every hand of the one thing you want to remember about it.  And then get some more practice.  It won't on its own make you a good player (ask any of my partners), but it will improve your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There is also the factor that tournament players have to write down their system of bidding and discards, so don't have to worry about remembering them; but it sounds like you shouldn't worry about that at present.)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T18:03:21.827" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T18:03:21.827" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3669" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:02:46.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Originally (when Culbertson and others first studied Contract Bridge), the rule was &quot;Seven cards and an outside Ace&quot;. With that and even a semi-reasonable dummy, you can usually make your contract, if left in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a little more study revealed that the hands you don't make are usually the ones where the opponents have an easy game/slam and, more importantly, starting at the three-level often makes it impossible for them to find the right contract, even if they do bid. Too valuable to restrict: cutting the outside Ace down to a King or Queen reduces the chance of making your contract, but offers much greater scope to interfere with the opponents, so reducing their score at the risk of a small penalty to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2011-08-07T12:48:36.453" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T12:48:36.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3715" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:15:17.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's only a &quot;crazy bidding system&quot; if it &lt;strong&gt;doesn't&lt;/strong&gt; work in practice.  Otherwise, any system that works &lt;em&gt;even when the opponents understand it&lt;/em&gt; is a good one, and probably better than the 'standard'.  Look up the history of Precision sometime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T23:15:17.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2011-08-06T23:30:34.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a big clue in the name. Playing Precision allows you to get a precise picture of the hand early in the bidding, at the expense of not being able to be creative.&#xA;This suits some pairs, but not others. It works better, I think, in tournament play; normal club players feel they're being deliberately confused (and I'd never consider playing it in a rubber bridge evening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, what most people consider Precision nowadays wouldn't be recognisable to the inventors: the principal feature of the original was that Pass showed 14+ points.  Sadly, that was so successful internationally that it was effectively banned...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-06T23:30:34.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-08-07T11:26:14.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2655/hive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hive&lt;/a&gt; is a very nice travel game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;compact&lt;/strong&gt;, fitting in a bag of say the size of two fists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It requires only little &lt;strong&gt;table space&lt;/strong&gt; (40cm x 40cm is enough).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I has rock &lt;strong&gt;solid components&lt;/strong&gt; you won't loose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No set up time&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a &lt;strong&gt;short game&lt;/strong&gt;, so you can play it whenever you've got a spare moment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only &lt;strong&gt;drawback&lt;/strong&gt; however is it &lt;strong&gt;weight&lt;/strong&gt;. My carbon edition weighs &lt;strong&gt;550g&lt;/strong&gt;, which is quite heavy (650g with the ladybug and the mosquito included). In comparison: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.be/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=9&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CFwQFjAI&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fboardgamegeek.com%2Fboardgame%2F16395%2Ftravel-blokus&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=blokus%20to%20go&amp;amp;ei=48BEToz7KImDOsC34dMD&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHZRUQ-G7XYDqo_9RIWme00ErUezw&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blokus To Go&lt;/a&gt; weighs only 320g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastEditorUserId="424" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T06:04:28.500" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T06:04:28.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-08-07T16:53:26.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This uses the online PDF from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't allowed to &quot;sit&quot; anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;You have to play cards. If you time-out, the player to the right plays random cards to fill out your non-locked registers. (p. 4) Locked registers WILL be played. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All movement Cards used but not locked are discarded, as are unused. (p. 4, 8) New ones will be drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You only get one draw of an option card per &lt;strong&gt;turn&lt;/strong&gt;, and only if you END the turn (and thus also Register 5's phase) on it. Crossing it during the turn doesn't get you the card. (p. 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fourth:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The odds are not good in 3p or more that you'll get the cards needed to return to your start space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Camping on a repair spot is thus not as easy as it may seem. Especially since you retain only locked cards. If one gets consistently lucky enough to have the ability to return to start spot with cards alone, it's great. If one is using terrain, it's skill, more than luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In short, I suspect the problem isn't the option cards, but a misread of the rules.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was no misread, one simple solution is to use a 1 per space limit; put a (custom) player token on each upgrade spot, and when you draw an option card, put that token on it. When it's lost, put the token on an upgrade slot where you don't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never felt it needed, and the people I've known who did usually were making one of three mistakes: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) retaining unused programming cards, thus being able to plan multiple turns ahead&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) retaining used programming cards. This makes it a VERY different game. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) allowing repairs and upgrades each register phase, rather than only at the end of the turn. This makes camping on a spot far more worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T16:53:26.607" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-08-07T17:21:50.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I someone is able to somehow null out their 5 moves to collect options - kill them!  Your robot has a laser for a reason :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, most hammer and wrench spaces are hard to get to - if they sit and waste many turns collecting options you should be able to beat them in the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1647" LastActivityDate="2011-08-07T17:21:50.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2011-08-08T03:04:54.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quarriors is coming out this wednesday and it's a short &quot;deck&quot; building game, except dice are used.&#xA;It's very portable which is an added bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1650" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T03:04:54.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-08-08T04:04:47.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a lot easier to camp a &quot;Toy Spot&quot; than some of the other answers are making out. To combat this, we institute a limit of 3 options. If you would get a 4th you must choose and discard one of your options BEFORE you draw a new one. This reduces the camping to a good extent, but doesn't stop it either.&#xA;And of course, if someone is camping constantly, coming over and shoving them into a pit, or shooting the crap out of them can be the simplest method to solve the problem. Or just go tag all the flags and win while they're collecting toys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T04:04:47.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4366" CreationDate="2011-08-08T14:46:52.573" Score="6" ViewCount="9431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing MTG for a few months now and was told that there is a story behind each set of cards.  I have several small bits of the story that came with the decks, but I would like to read the full story and see if I can construct my themed decks to match how they would be in the story. Where can I learn more about the back-story to these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-12-02T23:32:41.360" LastActivityDate="2022-12-02T23:32:41.360" Title="Where can I find the story of Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-lore|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4357" CreationDate="2011-08-08T15:35:51.997" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't read them myself, but every year Wizards of the Coast releases novels which are a companion to the latest Magic sets/block.  If you want the complete &quot;story behind the game&quot;, this is probably the best path to go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a useful link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_novels&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_novels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Magic Daily site also has quite a fun column called &quot;Savor the Flavor&quot; which contains essays on the latest sets from a storytelling and flavour perspective - you can't get a full picture of what's going on from reading it, I don't think, but it may appeal to someone who is interested in the ongoing story aspect of Magic, not just the mechanics of the game: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Archive.aspx?tag=SavortheFlavor&amp;amp;description=Taste%20the%20Magic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Archive.aspx?tag=SavortheFlavor&amp;amp;description=Taste%20the%20Magic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T15:35:51.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2011-08-08T15:50:01.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mao_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mao&lt;/a&gt; can work well with large numbers of players, or you can open a few more decks and get several different games going in the same room. It's also an intriguing game to watch, for those who don't understand how to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1609" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T21:25:30.093" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T21:25:30.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2488" CreationDate="2011-08-08T16:00:34.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use blank name cards. I get them from printers or stationers in boxes of 100 for about $1. They're smaller than regular playing cards, and not as durable, but you can also get them in perforated sheets of ten (10) that will go through your printer. You might find other sizes of perforated cards as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1609" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T16:00:34.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4372" CreationDate="2011-08-08T18:15:41.620" Score="7" ViewCount="5340" Body="&lt;p&gt;France is considered one of the &quot;better&quot; countries to play in Diplomacy. That's true insofar as it a &quot;corner&quot; and not a &quot;center&quot; country like Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Italy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In descending order, my favorite strategies are 1) Go for the Mediterranean, 2) Ally with England vs. Germany 3) Ally with Germany Vs. England. But I've found France a tough, frustrating country to play when one can't use a Mediterranean strategy (because of what's going on elsewhere). A couple examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one game, England &quot;allied&quot; with me against Germany, than stabbed me, leading to a Franco-German alliance (my least favorite). Meanwhile, Italy stabbed Austria, A Venice-Trieste, and got two builds in 1901, three in 1902, and had her choice of allies: with Russia vs. Turkey and Germany, with England vs. France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another game, I had to ward off an Anglo-German invasion. But the English army that went to Belgium marched into the Ruhr, again leading to a Franco-German alliance. But by the time we reshuffled the alliance, Austria-Hungary had stabbed Italy, overextended in a Lepanto opening, captured Venice and Rome, and dominated the Med. With Turkey, Italy, and the Balkans, Austria and Russia had the 18 centers to declare themselves co-winners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I been misplaying France? Or has my inability to control the Med been due to my northern troubles, and the Austro-Italian imbalances? Can I hope for a more &quot;fortunate&quot; result playing France in future games, against, say, random opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2011-08-09T00:48:20.503" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T16:17:59.330" Title="Have I Been Misplaying France in Diplomacy?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4335" CreationDate="2011-08-08T19:31:45.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be a bluff or it can be a calculation.  If you have QJ and the board shows 10 9 3 then you have 2 overcards to the board and an open ended straight draw.  If you have 4 cards to a flush you are probably favored nearly 2 to 1 to an over pair even.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sense weakness in your opponent you might be able to scare them off of a hand like two 5's, that while leading as it stands, could be behind if you even have a 10 or 9.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent could also have a single ace or of the suit that has 2 on the board you do not want that over card pair or another card towards his flush to come.  So you can bet to scare him off now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally betting the come you really want to take the hand down right there.  But you do not want to commit yourself to playing a hand out if the next card doesnt come in your favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastEditorUserId="1523" LastEditDate="2011-08-08T19:37:43.737" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T19:37:43.737" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1107" CreationDate="2011-08-08T20:30:21.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hearts (yes, similar to the Microsoft game) works surprisingly well with 8 people and 2 packs: I've not tried with more, but there's no theoretical reason why not .  Racing Demon (one pack per person) is also good, if a little raucous with high numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T20:30:21.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4365" CreationDate="2011-08-08T20:32:35.790" Score="16" ViewCount="62126" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some of the most popular time limits for chess games?  I'm looking for those used today as well as historically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1458" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T17:07:56.853" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T11:25:39.620" Title="What are the standard time settings in chess" Tags="|chess|play-time|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4364" CreationDate="2011-08-08T21:40:14.490" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blitz games will have 1-5 minutes per side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tournaments will have 1-3 hours per side.  A popular setup is 1-2 hours per side for the first 40 moves, plus an additional ½-1 hours each after the 40th move.  They may also allow &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_control#Increment_and_delay_methods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bronstein/Fischer time&lt;/a&gt;, if the clock supports it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/fide/handbook.html?id=39&amp;amp;view=category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FIDE time settings&lt;/a&gt; are 90 minutes for the first 40 moves + 30 minutes after move 40 + 30 seconds for every move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/World_Chess_Championship_2010#Match_conditions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010 world championship&lt;/a&gt; was &amp;quot;120 minutes, with 60 minutes added after move 40, 15 minutes added after move 60, and 30 additional seconds per move starting from move 61.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I've heard of World Championships going up to 8-hours per side, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2023-02-12T11:25:39.620" LastActivityDate="2023-02-12T11:25:39.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4357" CreationDate="2011-08-08T23:08:01.380" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards has short storyline summaries shown here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/products/storylinesummaries&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/products/storylinesummaries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this is an old page and hasn't been updated since Mirrodin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has a fairly comprehensive outline of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic%3a_The_Gathering_storylines&quot;&gt;Magic: The Gathering storylines&lt;/a&gt; that are helpful in getting a handle on the general theme of each set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to get a handle on affiliations of specific characters and creatures within their settings, I highly recommend starting at the MTG Salvation wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Category%3aStorylines&quot;&gt;Category:Storylines&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T23:08:01.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-08T23:31:28.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned the games you enjoyed playing, I'll point out they all can be played three-handed, with minor rules modification. I've enjoyed playing Hearts three-handed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/reverse/hearts.html#vars%20number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hearts with three or five players&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/boston/spades.html#three&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spades for Three Players&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/euchre/buck.html#three&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Three Player Buck Euchre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I live, the canonical three-player card game is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/adders/crib6.html#three&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cribbage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T23:31:28.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2011-08-08T23:53:13.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you looking &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaincards.com/Playing.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;for this&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PlainCards® Offers 5 Choices of Printable Blank Playing Cards &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also just buy some cheap decks from the dollar store and rubber cement standard-paper (cut down to size) or stick Avery labels onto them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might not shuffle too well, but get some &quot;shufflable&quot; card protectors and that solves that problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-08-08T23:53:13.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4322" CreationDate="2011-08-09T05:43:52.803" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One great way to find similarly themed games is to consult the GeekLists on &lt;a href=&quot;http://http:/www.boardgamegeek.com&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/43245/caesars-gallic-war&quot;&gt;your game&lt;/a&gt; on Boardgamegeek&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scroll to the bottom, look for the &quot;GeekList&quot; section&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check out GeekLists that sound interesting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Caesar's Gallic War, I found this GeekList, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/13869/item/1055456&quot;&gt;Bellum Gallicum (58-51 BC) - Caesar Against the Gauls&lt;/a&gt; which appears to be a well curated list of 20 games dealing with Caesar and the Gauls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T05:43:52.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-09T07:31:33.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was at university we often had exactly this problem.  The way I solved it was by extensive googling for a card game that was designed for three players.  The game I ended up finding was &lt;b&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3-5-8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3-5-8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/b&gt;.*  It has an interesting imbalance that means you spend a lot of time deciding which of your opponents is actually in the lead, and you often get the choice to give a trick to one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I think I actually came across &lt;strong&gt;8-5-3&lt;/strong&gt;, where the order of the hands is reversed.  Very similar games are &lt;strong&gt;9-5-2&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Sergeant Major&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T07:31:33.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4361" CreationDate="2011-08-09T13:04:58.173" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like both games you've failed to negotiate an alliance with England.  That isn't necessarily your fault, but in order to concentrate on the Med you would need to at least be able to negotiate a neutral England, if not an entirely friendly one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas you might want to try&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like in both games you stumbled into an FG alliance that was not in a strong position.  You might do better if you attempted to negotiate the FG alliance from the start.  That way you can be directing the flow of the conflict, rather than reacting to it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;England is likely worried that in an EF alliance, F usually grows faster and is in a more solid position after taking down Germany, while E ends up overextended.  So you'll likely need to give him the better side of the split, and make it clear that you are committing to the South so that E knows he isn't the next target.  You can also make things easier by making sure that England has a good path to grow after the initial attack on Germany, which generally means you want a weak Russia.  At the same time, don't make yourself too inviting of a target for E.  Many alliances are broken due to people who are too trusting and make it too easy for their partner to stab.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more you play Diplomacy, the more you realize that none of the countries are really better than the others, so don't get frustrated that you didn't get a good result while playing a &quot;strong&quot; country.  Focus on where your negotiations failed to bring the results you wanted, and try to improve on that in your next game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T13:04:58.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-09T19:20:08.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;31 (or Scat... but I've never heard it called it that)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/draw/scat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/draw/scat.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 handed Pinochle&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/marriage/pin3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/marriage/pin3.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or Oh Hell!&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 is pretty fun with the right group, and all of these work great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1273" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T19:20:08.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-09T20:34:34.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Briscola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Briscola&lt;/a&gt; is a very Euchre-like trick-taking game that can scale to many different player numbers. I prefer it with 3 so it sounds like the right fit for you folks. If your group knows Euchre, they'll be able to learn Briscola quite easily. Traditionally, it's played with Italian playing card deck (cups, swords, clubs, coins), but can easily be played with a modified International deck (hearts, spades, diamonds, clubs) by removing the 8, 9, and 10 of each suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1658" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T20:34:34.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-09T22:56:06.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think one of the best card games for three players is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/schafk/skat.html&quot;&gt;Skat&lt;/a&gt; (not to be confused with the Scat mentioned in another answer). This is a pretty heavy game on the level of Bridge, so you can decide whether it's a good fit for your group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally prefer &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/exact/99.html&quot;&gt;Ninety-Nine&lt;/a&gt; which is like Oh Hell! with a really funky bidding technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/number/3_players.html&quot;&gt;this list on pagat.com&lt;/a&gt; helpful. It seems like the numbers outside square brackets are the recommended numbers of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-08-09T22:56:06.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-10T09:31:40.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/fishing/casino.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cassino&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A brilliant card game that just magically deals out evenly to both 2, 3 and 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1663" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T15:48:17.443" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:48:17.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9" CreationDate="2011-08-10T13:10:27.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally love &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/35815/a-touch-of-evil-the-supernatural-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Touch of Evil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: it's another take on the a bunch of heroes working together against the big bad. You have slightly different character cards and each person plays one and goes around, picking up cards, items and fighting flunkies and you eventually get together to fight the big bad. I'm not sure how well it would work with only two people, but at least you don't need someone to play the bad guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1664" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T13:10:27.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4380" CreationDate="2011-08-10T16:58:50.543" Score="20" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;It normally doesn't make a huge difference, but I just got the King expansion, which gives major bonuses for those people who build the largest city and the longest road, and this slight difference in scoring may change the outcome of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation is similar when it comes to cities that use the same tile twice. In that case though, it seems to me that you wouldn't count the tile twice; the size of the city can be measured as the number of tiles it spans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when it comes to the road, it's not about size, but about length. If you score a point for every tile that you go through, and your road is long enough to circle back to a tile you already scored, do you score it again? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the &quot;official&quot; rules about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1629" LastEditorUserId="1629" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T17:04:51.877" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T05:20:58.597" Title="If I am building a road and I use the same tile twice, do I count that tile twice in order to determine the length of the road?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4379" CreationDate="2011-08-10T17:14:57.643" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, just count them once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_48_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; at the bottom of page 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who has a thief on a completed road scores one&#xA;  point for each tile in the completed road (count the&#xA;  number of tiles; separate segments on a tile count just&#xA;  once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mjharper.macbay.de/CARnew.pdf&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt; confirms that the King expansion uses the same definition for &quot;longest&quot;; IE, count the tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-11T04:27:56.087" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T04:27:56.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-10T18:29:31.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Durak (Fool)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a Russian game that plays very well with 3 people. The mechanics are also quite distinctive; it's rare to find a good card game that isn't built on trick taking in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastEditorUserId="1565" LastEditDate="2011-08-10T18:38:05.280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T18:38:05.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4383" CreationDate="2011-08-10T20:38:42.147" Score="15" ViewCount="2832" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Puerto Rico and using the residence building it states that it is based on the number of &quot;occupied island spaces&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean plantation spaces with a farm and a colonist? Or does this mean plantation space with or without a colonist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1666" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T21:27:19.623" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T11:09:34.707" Title="In Puerto Rico when using the &quot;residence&quot; how is &quot;occupied island spaces&quot; interpreted?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4382" CreationDate="2011-08-10T22:18:55.607" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means just a plantation, no colonists are required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Residence The owner of the occupied residence earns, at game end,&#xA;additional victory points for the plantations and quarries he has&#xA;placed on his island. For up to nine filled island spaces, he earns 4&#xA;VP, for ten filled island spaces, he earns 5 VP, for eleven filled&#xA;island spaces, he earns 6 VP, and for all twelve spaces filled, he&#xA;earns 7 VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: at game end, the owner of the occupied residence&#xA;has filled 10 of his 12 island spaces with plantations and quarries:&#xA;he earns an additional 5 VP.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No requirement for colonists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-10T22:18:55.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4385" CreationDate="2011-08-11T00:43:06.997" Score="15" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was a strategy board game I played a few times as a child almost 20 years ago. Here is what I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were two sides with identical sets of pieces. I seem to recall the sides being brown and grey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There were medieval soldier pieces. Some chariots (that the soldiers could ride), and elephants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player has a set number of moves per turn that he can distribute as he sees fit on his pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a hierarchy of power. I'm pretty sure a soldier (alone) couldn't kill an elephant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The map was a network of connected circles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each side had a castle composed of 5 or 6 connected circles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To win you had to occupy your opponents castle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1260" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:07:00.593" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T06:46:35.187" Title="Identify Strategy Game with Chariots and Elephants" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4384" CreationDate="2011-08-11T01:50:54.227" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game you are looking for is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20467/conquest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conquest&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2lppR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="22171" LastEditDate="2019-01-28T06:46:35.187" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T06:46:35.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9500" CreationDate="2011-08-11T05:57:54.023" Score="6" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I've culled most of my dice. I have 3 portals, 3 basic quiddity dice and 1 assistant.&#xA;I draw all but 2 portals from my bag, and the one portal die I do draw I roll a &quot;2 portal&quot;. I draw two portals from my bag and roll them, and put the portal die I just used into my Used pile. Both portal dice come up &quot;2 portal&quot; I set one in my used pile, and refill my bag from my used pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine you can see where this is going. Is it okay to tournament-short-cut 2 of the three portal dice to &quot;1 quiddity&quot; and then roll the last one? Or can dice rolled this turn not go back in the bag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T19:59:14.983" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T04:17:57.307" Title="In Quarriors, can the Portal Dice be used multiple times?" Tags="|quarriors|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4387" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-11T06:01:06.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the box (I'm lazy):&#xA;Quarriors is a fast-paced game of hexahedron monster combat! You must stategically balance your options each turn: Do you use your quiddity to summon creatures in the hopes of scoring glory or spend it all to capture more powerful quarry from the wilds? Outmaneuver your opponents through strategic spell use, the acquisition of powerful quarry and ultimately by striking down opponents creatures to gain the most glory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically though it's like Dominion except with dice instead of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2011-08-11T06:13:03.037" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T06:13:03.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4388" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-11T06:01:06.403" Score="0" Body="Quarriors is a &quot;Dice Building&quot; game." OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2011-08-11T06:13:05.767" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T06:13:05.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2011-08-11T13:59:59.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Print the cards on thick (but not really thick) paper and cut them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cover the cards with clear packing tape.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T13:59:59.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4392" CreationDate="2011-08-11T15:42:25.123" Score="13" ViewCount="8972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of a rule where if the same move sequence is repeated 3 times (6 moves total) the game ends in a stale mate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a de facto rule or a convention adopted outside the formal rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T13:41:21.793" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:59:58.670" Title="What is the repeated move stalemate?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4391" CreationDate="2011-08-11T16:22:03.200" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a rule, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threefold_repetition&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule in the FIDE laws of chess is 9.2, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game is drawn, upon a correct claim by the player having the move, when the same position, for at least the third time (not necessarily by sequential repetition of moves)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;a. is about to appear, if he first writes his move on his scoresheet and declares to the arbiter his intention to make this move, or   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;b. has just appeared, and the player claiming the draw has the move.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Positions as in (a) and (b) are considered the same, if the same player has the move, pieces of the same kind and colour occupy the same squares, and the possible moves of all the pieces of both players are the same.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Positions are not [considered to be] the same if a pawn that could have been captured en passant can no longer be captured or if the right to castle has been changed. (FIDE 2005, Article 9.2)   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the rule does not require that the position occur thrice on nearly consecutive moves, it happens this way very often in practice, typically with one of the kings being put into perpetual check. The intermediate positions and moves do not matter – they can be the same or different. The rule applies to positions, not moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the draw has to be claimed, it's not automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T16:22:03.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4391" CreationDate="2011-08-11T16:22:38.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a real rule. Though the wording is a bit different.&#xA;It doesn't refer to moves, but rather to positions. If the exact same position occurs three times during a game, it may be declared a draw. The positions do not have to occur in succession and every figure has to be in exact same spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threefold_repetition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia: Threefold Repetition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the following interesting addendum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In chess, in order for a position to be considered the same, each&#xA;  player must have the same set of legal moves each time, including the&#xA;  possible rights to castle and capture en passant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rights to capture en passant or castle can possibly vanish, this means that positions that look exactly the same, might not be for the purpose of this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1413" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T16:22:38.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4249" CreationDate="2011-08-11T18:48:59.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are considering using these activities, I will assume you have a decent amount of red dice (3/4) and a decent denier engine that allows you to support them. Here's my two cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 4 pips per activation, Chivalry is an expensive Activity card to use, especially since you have to use your remaining red dice to determine the amount of cubes you can place in the Event cards. And since most Event cards require at least three cubes to defeat, using them as a VP engine may not be your best choice; it may be more cost-effective to counter the Event cards directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said so, using Chivalry can set you up to score a bunch of VPs on a future turn, since you can place these cubes on different Event cards, and get the majority/ preferential spot on more than one (whereas attacking them directly limits you to placing all your cubes on the same card). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joust, at 3 pips, is more likely to be useful, and it guarantees you are getting the VPs you want. There's only six red dice on the board, so as long as you have a decent red roll (or spend Influence points to re-roll/flip) you are likely to have the red pip majority on your section of the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should always buy a red die from another player for 2 deniers so you can use your total red pip count to activate Joust (and if you buy it from a player who has red pip majority, it puts you back on top). Hopefully you can do this several times in a row (once no one else has red dice, you can start using your own red dice to activate the card; you'll still have majority!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, the Activity cards combination will greatly affect the strategy you have to follow in order to win the game. Without knowing what other Activity cards are revealed, it's hard to say this plan will work for you 100% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the Blacksmith Activity card is in play (which adds 5 pips to your red dice selection), then you are pretty much guaranteed to have the greatest amount of red pips on the table, so you should definitely follow this plan (as long as you are the one who activates it!). However, if that one isn't in play and there's no easy way to get Influence points, you probably won't want to spend them to re-roll your red dice, and you will be stuck with whatever roll you get, which may diminish the effectiveness of this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;YMMV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1629" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T18:48:59.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-11T21:35:10.970" Score="1" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1698/what-are-common-contracts-in-catan&quot;&gt;What are common contracts in Catan?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The group I regularly play Settlers with has used a house rule about ports (I can trade resources for you at my port on your turn) for a long time. We got into the habit without &lt;em&gt;realizing&lt;/em&gt; it was a house rule, and by the time we learned of it, playing without this freedom felt constraining. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open ports make ports substantially more valuable. Fees for trading fluctuated for a while but then settled on a standard &quot;2 trades conducted for 1 extra resource&quot; rate of pay. Depending on the player, they might only accept certain resource types as the fee for trade, permit trades at multiple ports they own for the same fee, or even allow for a single port trade with post-payment made on certain conditions (one card for one trade was the opener... conditions might also be &quot;the next wheat you get,&quot; etc.) We even evolved a system of using extra pieces (ships, for example, when not playing seafarers) to serve as tokens so that port users could save their second trade for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always been interested in other ways to &quot;extend&quot; Settlers through rule modifications that don't seem to disrupt gameplay. Specifically, I've wondered about launching side &quot;businesses&quot; in Catan that might offer incentives to multiple parties (hosting gambling with resource cards on my turn? offering to hold another player's cards as a &quot;bank&quot; and absorbing some risk of the 7 roll in exchange for a fee?). There is some economical calibration involved, but what I'm really seeking is more ideas to experiment with that are consistent with the game's premise yet extend and complicate the interactions and negotiations between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any &quot;house rules&quot; to share that add interest or variation to your Settlers games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1670" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-08-11T21:35:10.970" Title="&quot;House Rules&quot; in Settlers of Catan" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-08-11T21:59:39.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2211" CreationDate="2011-08-12T06:17:41.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.be/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=9&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CFwQFjAI&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fboardgamegeek.com%2Fboardgame%2F16395%2Ftravel-blokus&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=blokus%20to%20go&amp;amp;ei=48BEToz7KImDOsC34dMD&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHZRUQ-G7XYDqo_9RIWme00ErUezw&amp;amp;cad=rja&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blokus To Go&lt;/a&gt; is a great travel game for two players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is &lt;strong&gt;compact&lt;/strong&gt; (19cm x 19cm x 3cm).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It requires only &lt;strong&gt;little table space&lt;/strong&gt; (19cm x 19cm is enough). You could even play it &lt;strong&gt;without a table&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short set up time&lt;/strong&gt;, say half a minute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a &lt;strong&gt;short game&lt;/strong&gt;, so you can play it whenever you've got a spare moment. You might even interrupt a gameby closing the box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last but not least it is a &lt;strong&gt;very enjoyable game&lt;/strong&gt; without a luck factor, quite addicting really.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;strong&gt;drawback&lt;/strong&gt; is that (in my copy) some of the blocks come off the board too easily. Because the box cannot be closed very tightly, it is easy to &lt;strong&gt;loose some components&lt;/strong&gt; when traveling. Luckily this can be fixed by wrapping a elastic band around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T06:17:41.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4398" CreationDate="2011-08-12T08:47:09.803" Score="9" ViewCount="18615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;type=+%5bartifact%5d+%5bland%5d||subtype=+%5bartifact%5d+%5bland%5d&amp;amp;set=|%5b%22Mirrodin%22%5d&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;5 artifact lands&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;em&gt;Mirrodin&lt;/em&gt; to add to my artifact deck; it works with the artifact theme (having all of my cards be artifacts) and goes well with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209011&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Darksteel Juggernaut&lt;/a&gt;s. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, the other day a friend told me that, because they are artifacts and not basic lands, I could play a basic land and as many artifact lands as I have in my hand in a single turn. Is this true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it hard to believe as that would make then overpowered and everyone would use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone verify this or point me to an article where artifact lands are discussed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-08-18T20:10:52.107" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T12:31:03.703" Title="How many artifact lands can I play a turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4397" CreationDate="2011-08-12T10:25:02.430" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Artifact lands may be artifacts, but they are also lands, and all the usual rules about how often you can play and land (i.e. once a turn, on your turn) still apply to them.  The same goes for creature lands like Dryad Arbor from Future Sight: if you've played a land already that turn, you can't then play your Dryad Arbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to dump out a ton of mana production on your first turn, you're going to have to invest many thousands of dollars for a large collection of Moxes, I'm afraid to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules, section 305, Lands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.2. A player may normally play only one land during his or her&#xA;  turn; however, continuous effects may increase this number. If any&#xA;  such effects exist, the player announces which effect, or this rule,&#xA;  applies to each land play as it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.9. If an object is both a land and another card type, it can be&#xA;  played only as a land. It can't be cast as a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the fact of an Artifact Land being an artifact doesn't mean it is no longer bound by the rules for lands; it must follow all the normal rules for lands, and all the normal rules for artifacts too - so it is a valid target for Shatter, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T15:25:39.527" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T15:25:39.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4403" CreationDate="2011-08-12T13:25:04.130" Score="7" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I began playing MTG around Beta/Unlimited but haven't played MTG since about 4th Edition/Fallen Empires/Ice Age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been considering picking the game back up, and could use some suggestions on how to re-learn the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already know that I can pick up a fair amount of commons/uncommons very inexpensively so I'm not concentrating on deck building but rather picking up the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest change I see is the concept of the stack, and the formalization of the rules (which I have a great link to and am browsing through).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel I'm probably best off ignoring the plethora of new cards/combos that have appeared on the scene and getting a feel for the flow ... the cards/combos will come from playing and being active again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also know that the best way to reinforce this information will be by playing, learning a game is rarely simply academic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a fairly straightforward strategy for re-learning MTG beyond these steps I've already identified?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T22:13:55.200" Title="Is there a simple strategy for re-learning Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4422" CreationDate="2011-08-12T14:07:30.090" Score="3" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent makes an attack roll and gets two flags, causing my infantry unit to retreat two hexes. The only viable path for retreat is through barbed wire directly behind the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lose one soldier from that unit, because they can't retreat for the second hex (per the &quot;infantry units must stop&quot; barbed wire rules)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply stop the unit on the barbed wire after a one-hex retreat?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some other thing that I'm too much of a M'44 noob to have encountered?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1658" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T15:57:13.293" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T13:13:44.867" Title="How is retreating through obstacles handled in Memoir '44?" Tags="|memoir-44|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4401" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T14:37:56.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T14:37:56.280" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T14:37:56.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4402" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T14:37:56.280" Score="0" Body="Euchre is a trick-taking card game commonly played with four people in two partnerships with a deck of 24 standard playing cards.  After the deal a suit is chosen as the trump suit, with the cards of this suit outranking the other suits, called off suits.  Cards are ranked as J of trump suit, J of colour matching trump suit, A, K, Q, 10, 9 and off suits as A, K, Q, J, 10, 9.  Play is usually clockwise with lead-suit-following card play to a score of 10." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T15:27:55.433" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T15:27:55.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4399" CreationDate="2011-08-12T15:21:43.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a few ways to relearn Magic:The Gathering without simply reading the rules. Which, by the way, because of the new stack concept*, streamlining of phases/steps and elimination of many odd special-case rules, is easier than ever in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Download the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/NewtoMagic.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/newtomagic/learntoplay&quot;&gt;Magic the Gathering Online Demo&lt;/a&gt; if you have a PC or if you have an XBox, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Digital/DuelsOfThePlaneswalkers.aspx&quot;&gt;Duels of the Plainswalkers 2012 Demo&lt;/a&gt;. Since they take care of the game rules for you, you can walk through games, learn the turn sequence and how the stack works. That MtGO link has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GadqHggATe8&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; that walks through the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find a store near you and drop in for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Events.aspx?x=events/magic/fnm&quot;&gt;Friday Night Magic&lt;/a&gt;. It's been my experience that most MtG players are quite happy and willing to teach new players the ropes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*honestly, the stack isn't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; new. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:33:50.050" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:33:50.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4386" CreationDate="2011-08-12T15:56:26.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that when the bag needs to be drawn from and cannot be, the Used pile is emptied (same mechanic as in Dominion, from which it draws inspiration). In this case, it would seem like your portal dice will be re-rolled, moved to the Used pile and returned to the bag until you've rolled your Quiddity. Should you somehow have no dice in your Used pile OR in your bag and you need to draw, I say the drawing effect is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caveat: I've never played Quarriors, but I have read the rules (and look forward to playing it). I also know it's inspired by Dominion which I HAVE played. If it turns out I've totally misinterpreted the rules, be gentle, I'm only trying to help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T15:56:26.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4405" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:55:47.633" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T16:55:47.633" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T16:55:47.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4406" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T16:55:47.633" Score="0" Body="Memoir '44 is a war-themed strategy board game, created by Richard Borg.  It simulates over a dozen of the battles connected with the D-Day invasions in World War II.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Designed for two players, it can also be played with up to six players if played in teams and up to eight players in the &quot;Overlord&quot; scenarios that require two copies of the game.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The game is published in by Days of Wonder." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:13:01.410" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:13:01.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4407" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:10:23.943" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:10:23.943" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:10:23.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4408" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:10:23.943" Score="0" Body="Fair play refers to aspects of game play which ensure that all participants have an equal opportunity of victory.  Generally speaking, it refers to the player's behaviour and is closely tied to the concept of sportsmanship.  Items which violate the spirit of fair play may not be explicitly prohibited by the rules of a particular game, but may be viewed with disdain by other players." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T18:30:36.013" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T18:30:36.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4409" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:12:36.730" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:12:36.730" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:12:36.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4410" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:12:36.730" Score="0" Body="Issues surrounding the pace of game play, whether slowing a fast moving game or speeding a slow moving one." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T06:26:38.557" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T06:26:38.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4411" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:18:29.373" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:18:29.373" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:18:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4412" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:18:29.373" Score="0" Body="Courtesy refers to excellence of manners, social conduct and polite behaviour. It can also refer to actions done as a matter of protocol. Questions under this tag should generally be about optional behaviours during gaming." OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T12:14:16.510" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T12:14:16.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4413" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:23:58.833" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:23:58.833" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:23:58.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4414" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:23:58.833" Score="0" Body="RoboRally is a board game originally published in 1994 by Wizards of the Coast and re-released in 2005 under the Avalon Hill label.  Players assume control of one Robot Control Computer in a widget factory filled with course altering conveyor belts, metal melting laser beams, pits, crushers and other obstacles. The goal is to be the first to reach checkpoints in a particular order. Movement is accomplished with randomly dealt program cards." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T18:31:14.233" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T18:31:14.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4415" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:40:05.297" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:40:05.297" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:40:05.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4416" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:40:05.297" Score="0" Body="Dominoes may either refer to one of a collection of tile based games or to the tiles themselves.  European dominoes have markings to represent the throw of two dice, from one to six pips on each end of the tile.  These sets usually include an additional blank tile.  Chinese dominoes within a set are categorized as civil or military and are most easily recognized as the tiles used to play Mah Jong.  The tiles are made of a wide variety of materials." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T18:31:37.167" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T18:31:37.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4417" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:41:41.097" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T17:41:41.097" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T17:41:41.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4418" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T17:41:41.097" Score="0" Body="Age of Steam is a strategy board game by Martin Wallace published in 2002 by Warfrog Games on license from Winsome Games. The game depicts the development of railroads in the United States, as well as several other countries using the expansion maps. It can be played by three to six players, usually takes between 2 and 3 hours to complete, and is intended for ages 13 and above." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T18:31:42.017" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T18:31:42.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4420" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-08-12T21:48:20.390" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T21:48:20.390" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T21:48:20.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4421" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-08-12T21:48:20.390" Score="0" Body="Elder Dragon Highlander (abbrev. EDH, aka Commander) is a Magic:The Gathering variant format which emphasises social interactions, interesting games, and creative deck building.  It's primary characteristic is that decks are centered about a Legendary Creature as the &quot;Commander&quot; and the &quot;Commander's&quot;  colour attributes dictate what other cards may appear in the deck.  It can be played 1-on-1 but is usually multiplayer." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-08-12T23:01:54.193" LastActivityDate="2011-08-12T23:01:54.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4400" CreationDate="2011-08-13T13:13:44.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the terrain isn't Impassable, you can retreat through terrain without penalty.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;strong&gt;Retreat&lt;/strong&gt; rules, page 10 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player controlling the unit decides which hex his unit retreats onto using the following rules:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit must always retreat toward its controlling player’s side of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terrain has no effect on retreat moves, therefore a retreating unit may move through a forest or village without stopping. However, impassable terrain may not be moved through during a retreat move.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit may not retreat onto, or through, a hex already containing another unit (regardless if friend or foe).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a unit cannot retreat; is forced to retreat off the limits of the battlefield; or would be pushed back onto a sea hex, one figure must be removed from the unit for each retreat move that cannot be completed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some obstacles will allow certain units to ignore the first flag rolled against them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Barbed Wire terrain type isn't impassable, you can retreat through the Barbed Wire without stopping.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case the answer would be 3: some other thing.  Specifically, &lt;strong&gt;you would retreat twice from the two flags and keep all of your units, assuming you can satisfy all other retreat conditions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T13:13:44.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1441" CreationDate="2011-08-13T17:03:21.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Every&lt;/strong&gt; bet you make, must be for one of two main reasons: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bet for value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bet for bluff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you bet, you have to ask yourself, why are you doing it, and continuation bet is not an exception. I'm not gonna explain what the reasons mean as it's off-topic, but you can read about it e.g. here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardschat.com/reasons-for-betting.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cardschat.com/reasons-for-betting.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your reasons for cbet should vary on what type of game you're playing, and what kind of opponents you're dealing with. If you play a freeroll, or a low-stakes cash game, you better cbet only for value, because weaker opponents will tend to call you even with the lowest pair, or similar weak hands, thus making your cbets less profitable. Also a lot depends on your table image, if you think other players see you as a tight player, you can bet for bluff from time to time, without any damage. If they think you're playing loose, you will profit from value betting more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;bet size&lt;/strong&gt; shouldn't be less than 1/2 of the pot, and more than the pot, but this may also vary depending on the players, and the board texture. If you're dealing with a drawy board, you should bet more than is the pot, to lower the pot odds for players waiting for the draw to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1668" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T17:03:21.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4437" CreationDate="2011-08-13T17:25:51.733" Score="11" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Omaha Hi/Lo Poker variant you hear advice like do not chase the low. But what is the difference between chasing a low draw and a high draw? Many people are satisfied with their low draw only when they already have a pair, or a draw to win also the highest hand. &#xA;I don't see a reason for not chasing the low:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pot is divided 50/50 between the high- and the low-hand winner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Low draw can be close/open-ended like a high draw, too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes the same pot odds and equity for trying to win the high and the low hand, so why the &quot;bad practice&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1668" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T02:08:34.207" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T17:23:50.363" Title="Why is chasing the low considered a trap in Omaha Hi/Lo?" Tags="|poker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4440" CreationDate="2011-08-13T18:08:57.747" Score="6" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Saboteur 2, I am having trouble understanding precisely which dwarves win in certain situations. Could someone clarify what's already in the rulebook?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I was wondering: if a dwarf from the green team reaches the gold, does the blue team also win (and vice-versa)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way that made the most sense in my head was: if any dwarf of ANY kind reaches the gold, then winners include: the boss, the profiteer, and dwarves on teams for which a path to the gold is NOT blocked by a door. However, the rules seemed to say that WHICH dwarf reached the gold actually mattered, which doesn't really seem sensible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T19:23:49.613" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:59:37.713" Title="What are the rules for who wins when the gold is reached in Saboteur 2?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4433" CreationDate="2011-08-13T18:13:00.330" Score="5" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Saboteur 2, the number of dwarves who win a round matters quite a bit: the more dwarves who win, the fewer points are awarded to each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Geologists play by funny rules, though, and get points in another way. My question is: do geologists count toward the number of &quot;winners&quot; for a round, thus reducing all the other winners' points? Or are they left out of the winner count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T19:24:09.300" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T06:06:37.857" Title="Do geologists ever count as &quot;winners&quot; in Saboteur 2?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4434" CreationDate="2011-08-13T18:17:07.500" Score="4" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Saboteur, if the good dwarves reach the gold, they distribute points to themselves but skip over any good dwarves with broken equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this rule still apply for point distribution in Saboteur 2, or does your broken status not matter for collecting points after a round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T19:24:22.563" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T06:08:39.090" Title="Do you get points if you are broken/trapped in Saboteur 2" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-13T18:19:47.620" Score="5" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Saboteur 2 specifically state that the &lt;strong&gt;Theft&lt;/strong&gt; card does not work for a dwarf who is &lt;strong&gt;Trapped!&lt;/strong&gt;. Does the Theft card work for a dwarf who is not Trapped! but who does have broken equipment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-13T23:04:51.293" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T23:07:25.317" Title="Does the Thief card work for a dwarf with broken equipment in Saboteur 2?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4428" CreationDate="2011-08-13T23:07:25.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no reason per the rules to suspect that &lt;strong&gt;Theft&lt;/strong&gt; does not work for someone who is trapped.  As one exception for Theft is explicitly listed (&lt;strong&gt;Trapped!&lt;/strong&gt;), someone would need to make a compelling argument as to why broken equipment should keep Theft from working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-08-13T23:07:25.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2011-08-14T01:51:58.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it's clear that one player has an advantage over all the others, my group often has fun by conspiring against that player, and if people are playing the game for enjoyment it can end up being pretty fun. Once my family noticed that I tended to win more than any of them at Settlers of Catan, they started to be very careful about what trades the offered me and, if I was winning, they'd all combine forces to make sure that robber was on me at all times. The same thing happens in Puerto Rico. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experienced player to new player before me: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;No don't pick craftsman! That means he'll get to ship his goods first and get more victory points than us! Pick Builder so he doesn't get that stack of $$$!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New player thinks about this fact and reconsiders. Picks the Builder, thwarting my plan. The other players had fun conspiring against me, I had fun being conspired against, and the unfair advantage I would've had was gone. What's not to like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I don't win as much any more, and when I do it's far more of a treat. My opponents have fun trying to thwart my plans and I have fun scheming to win and laughing when I don't. If you have a new player at the table you probably won't have the super-cutthroat experience you might have if all the players were of equal skill level, but that doesn't mean you can't have fun. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T01:51:58.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4432" CreationDate="2011-08-14T03:23:39.433" Score="7" ViewCount="4833" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most path cards in Saboteur can only be placed if they connect to the entry ladder  The Saboteur 2 rules say that a ladder path card is connected to the main entry ladder. Does this mean you can essentially place a ladder path card &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt; (presumably anywhere that connects to some other path) even if that path does not connect to the entry ladder?  (This would occur if some mean saboteur had played a rockfall on a key path card in the middle of stuff.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I could find in the rules was that a ladder card cannot be placed next to the 3 final cards. What does that mean, exactly? Can I arbitrarily not place a ladder path card as the last card in a path to one of the end cards? Or are the rules just trying to say you can't use the ladder to teleport straight to the end when the groundwork (hah) has not yet been laid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T05:59:33.870" Title="Where can the Ladder card be placed in Saboteur 2?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4431" CreationDate="2011-08-14T05:59:33.870" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/667319/rules-on-ladder-placement&quot;&gt;answered by the Designer&lt;/a&gt;, Frederic Moyersoen on BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any card you place in the gallery must match with an existing corridor. There is no exception for placing a card with a ladder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/6433541#6433541&quot;&gt;And here:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As the ladder is always connected to the start card, you can place this card when the connection is interrupted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken together, the ladder card must be placed so that it connects to a path.  That path need not lead back to the original ladder card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T05:59:33.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4426" CreationDate="2011-08-14T06:06:37.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;.  The geologist does not count as a winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the rules, they are indifferent as to who wins and loses, caring only about the crystals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T06:06:37.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4427" CreationDate="2011-08-14T06:08:39.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It does not.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;em&gt;Note that this rule is optional in the original rule set.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6688742#6688742&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Answered by the Designer&lt;/a&gt;, Frederic Moyersoen on BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The broken tools variant was introduced to have some competition between the gold-diggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension provides more chaos and competition. Therefore, this variant rule has been skipped during the design of the game. However, if you wish, you can still use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T06:08:39.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4436" CreationDate="2011-08-14T06:22:50.850" Score="30" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the  Prosperity rules it says &quot;if you have 11 coppers in play and 2 Buys, you could buy a Mint, trash all of your played Treasures, and then buy a Grand Market.&quot; My question is: What are you going to buy the Grand Market with if you have trashed all your treasures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1688" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:12:07.173" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T17:12:07.173" Title="If I buy a Mint, do I still get to use the coins from the treasures I played that turn to buy a Grand Market?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2011-08-14T08:06:39.777" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because you trashed the coppers doesn't mean you haven't earned the coins for that turn (and can spend them).  Their value to you is accrued when you play them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the Prosperity rules you must play all treasures you want to use, before you buy cards.  The rules for Mint state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you buy multiple cards in a turn, trash your Treasures right when&#xA;  you buy Mint; you still have any leftover coins they produced for spending&#xA;  on something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the order would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 11 coppers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have 11 coins to spend and 2 buys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase a Mint (have 6 coins left to spend and 1 buy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve the Mint card and trash all coppers (still have 6 coins and 1 buy to spend)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase Grand Market (valid because no coppers are in play).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-10T21:08:47.810" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T21:08:47.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4424" CreationDate="2011-08-14T17:46:24.463" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that &quot;chasing the low&quot; is discouraged is because too often, you have a shot at only the low side of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a low hand draw, and a &quot;high&quot; draw to a straight or flush. Very often, you will make the latter, only to be beaten by a higher straight or flush. At the same time, you may fail to make your low because the card that made the straight or flush is &quot;high.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, you will have a hand that can go &quot;both ways.&quot; Something like K-K-2-3 can make both a high and a low hand, especially of the kings are &quot;double suited&quot; with the 2 and 3. But the best starting hand is A-A-2-3, especially if &quot;double suited.&quot; That's because the aces can help make the best possible high hand and the best possible low hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If YOU don't have these advantages, someone else may, and you don't want to be playing against that &quot;someone else.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-14T17:46:24.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2011-08-15T02:32:49.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I and a friend recently developed a set specifically for two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The principles we started from were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game should be fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No extra reasons to wait for the other player to shuffle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple action granting cards make turns take too long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's what we came up with:&#xA;Cellar, Chancellor, Market, Moat, Remodel, Smithy, Throne Room, Witch, Woodcutter, Workshop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set has a Witch as the sole attack card, but with both the Moat and Remodel, she is more than balanced. The Witch doesn't require the other player to have a hand when played except to check if they have a moat, so if they're shuffling just set the curse aside and if they draw a moat, put it back. The Throne Room is the only way to get multiple actions (when used with either the Cellar or the Market).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've play tested it several times and I think it's a very flexible, fun set. I like that there are multiple strategies and that you have to be able to react to how your opponent is playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you enjoy it, and don't forget to use only eight of each victory card in the stacks when playing two-player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and here's the set on Dominion Deck Builder, if you use that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominiondeck.com/games/duel-set-made-two-players&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dominiondeck.com/games/duel-set-made-two-players&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1691" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T02:32:49.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2011-08-15T08:12:00.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree the the rules are poorly phrased in the &quot;A team wins if:&quot; section.  It provides an outcome tree, but clearly fails to provide a branch for what happens if a dwarf from the other team creates a connection to the treasure, and the way is not blocked for that team by a door of the wrong colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the rules, under &quot;Splitting The Treasure&quot; it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Depending on whether there is an uninterrupted path from the start to&#xA;  the treasure or not, the Gold-Diggers or the Saboteurs win the round.&#xA;  If the path to the treasure is blocked by a door, only the dwarves&#xA;  from the team of the same color win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think from that paragraph it becomes pretty clear that an uninterrupted path unblocked by any door would be a victory for all Gold-Diggers.  I think your initial instincts were right and you shouldn't worry too much about the sloppily-phrased earlier paragraph.  These things do happen, much to the distress of OCD rules lawyers like us!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T08:12:00.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4442" CreationDate="2011-08-15T13:18:43.550" Score="4" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;On defense, there are attitude, suit preference, and count signals. My guess is that the play to the first trick would represent an &quot;attitude&quot; signal for a suit. Beyond that, how do I differentiate between this, and one of the two other signals. Is it mainly the context of the play? Are some signals more useful in no trump hands, and others in defending suit contracts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-08-15T14:25:42.337" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T14:39:28.993" Title="In Bridge, How do I Differentiate Between My Partner's Signals on Defense?" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4441" CreationDate="2011-08-15T14:39:28.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a good question - in Bridge we spend a lot of time memorising the precise significance of all sorts of bids and responses in our chosen systems, and then when it comes to the much more uncharted world of defence, we feel lost without strongly prescribed, objective meanings for the plays we make and the responses we receive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a perfect, systemic answer, but what I would say is: think about what information you NEED from your partner, and then about the ways he may have at his disposal to communicate that information.  After the dummy is laid down, you and your partner will probably have some idea what course the game is likely to take thereafter.  If this suit is a non-starter, then watch partner for an indication of which suit he'd like you to switch to.  If you're winning the first trick and hope to carry on leading it, watch partner for negative or count signals so you don't get trumped when it's most inconvenient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short: it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; context-dependent.  So don't agonise about what a single played card means in isolation (that way madness lies - it could just be a singleton after all!)  Instead ponder what information would be useful to you to help you defeat the contract, and watch partner like a hawk for any unusual plays that may be trying to give you that information.  As time goes by your partnership will hopefully develop a rapport that will enable you to communicate effectively in various situations - and that's the route to playing great Bridge! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T14:39:28.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4445" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:04:10.790" Score="10" ViewCount="2587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about trading for one of these variations of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Formula_D_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Formula D&lt;/a&gt;, but would like to know which one is the preferable version. Are there differences in rules, component quality, or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2019-07-16T10:59:01.837" LastActivityDate="2019-07-16T10:59:01.837" Title="What are the Differences Between Formula Dé and Formula D?" Tags="|edition-comparison|formula-d|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4443" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:19:47.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are the same, except Formula Dé (Dé meaning Dice in French) is the older version. The maps are not the same in the box, but many additionnal circuits are available. The game material may change a little bit, but the main idea is exactly the same. You can for example play Formula D with your old Formula Dé maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:19:47.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4443" CreationDate="2011-08-15T16:41:46.103" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formula D is a more recent version with a few rules changes and some tweaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Car miniatures are different.  I think the old Formula Dé ones are higher quality; that said, both are perfectly functional.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Formula D comes with some nice new 'gear stick' control sheets which let you track your current gear by sliding a gearstick, alongside a pegboard for tracking car wear.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(I find these more convenient than the old versions; they seem slightly faster and easier.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Formula D has updated the rules a little; in particular there are more categories of car wear.  In Dé wear is measured by using up a limited pool of points of tires, brakes and fuel.  In D fuel is not tracked, but wear is counted against: tires, brakes, gearbox, body, engine and suspension.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(In play this isn't nearly as complicated as it sounds; our group found it just as intuitive as the old system.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Formula D is newer and maps are still being published. There are 8 maps for D to date (counting the two in the box) compared to around 30 for Dé.  This isn't important, as the map format has not changed significantly; maps for Formula Dé work fine with Formula D.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Formula D allows street racing as well as Formula 1; map sets so far all have a Formula 1 map on one side and a &quot;city&quot; map on the back.  These use the same system, but have added hazards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are also some rules changes (less worrying about weather tires, more use of nitrous oxide... street racing characters also have minor special abilities and different car wear stats.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T16:41:46.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4450" CreationDate="2011-08-15T18:32:58.263" Score="7" ViewCount="6747" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very well known that 19 is an impossible score to achieve when counting your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the other impossible to achieve scores?  I've read 25, 26, 27.  Does anyone know the answer authoritatively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T21:36:07.223" Title="What hand scores are impossible in Cribbage?" Tags="|scoring|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4504" CreationDate="2011-08-15T18:36:53.813" Score="11" ViewCount="10661" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father in law plays a rule that I consider to be rubbish since I can find no reference to it in the rules.  I assume it's a house rule that he's tripped over somewhere, and adopted into his game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;19 back&quot; rule states that if you score a 0 point hand, you move your peg 19 pips back.  In this case a 0 point hand sometimes means only the count of the cards, but usually will mean a 0 point &lt;em&gt;end&lt;/em&gt;, that is no change in the position of the pegs whatsoever for any reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else ever heard of this rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2022-03-08T12:42:22.557" Title="Has anyone heard of a rule called &quot;19 back&quot; for 0 point hands?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4458" CreationDate="2011-08-15T19:06:58.567" Score="2" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that we have a scenario where the dealer has declined a ♠J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are sitting to the dealer's left, with &amp;hearts;A, ♣K, ♣9, ♢Q, ♢10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice I read at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vegaseuchre.com/strategy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt; says that calling clubs is a reasonable call as it is likely the dealer was strong in red.  My own experience and skill level agrees with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article also notes that a poor lead would be &amp;hearts;A, as any spare club could pick up the trick (again agreed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What seems to be the best lead from this position?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought would be to lead ♢10 and give my partner a chance to jump, but is there a better general strategy?  Leading ♢Q improves the odds of picking up the first trick myself, but to my mind, only marginally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general line of thought is that since I am void in spades, I'm best to become void in diamonds to increase my chances of using my trump on off suit leads by my opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-08-16T17:30:48.437" LastActivityDate="2019-06-24T18:57:08.223" Title="What is the best lead when calling next on a declined bower?" Tags="|euchre|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4446" CreationDate="2011-08-15T20:30:23.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All scores from 0 to 29 are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cribbage#The_show&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;possible&lt;/a&gt; with the exception of 19, 25, 26 and 27, as already mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="152" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T20:30:23.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4452" CreationDate="2011-08-15T21:10:58.257" Score="7" ViewCount="8299" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a Texas Hold-Em No-Limit Tournament, where the blinds are 200-400, can the big blind initially post more than 400 or does the Big Blind need to wait until it's his turn to raise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example we had a player who was the big blind and wanted to know if he could post his 550 chips (all-in) as the big blind instead of waiting for his turn to come around to raise 150 chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T15:11:18.967" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:01:24.207" Title="Can the Big Blind Player Post More than the Current Big Blind?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2011-08-15T21:25:06.113" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a tournament, &quot;blinds&quot; are set by formula, based on the number of rounds that have elapsed. So the big blind amount in this instance is 400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a LIVE blind, which means that the big blind can raise, but only after others have had a chance to do so. That's the disadvantage of being a big blind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, he raises the little blind from 200 to 400, and then again at the end of the round (if no one else has raised 150 or more). But he can't &quot;protect&quot; his blind by raising the whole 550 the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T21:25:06.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1204" CreationDate="2011-08-15T23:30:58.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For someone who has just started playing Catan, I would recommend Traders and Barbarians since the rule extensions are fairly minimal.  Cities &amp;amp; Knights rules greatly complicate the game so I would recommend that once one is more familiar with basic game play.  In both cases and with Seafarers, the rule extensions are enough to make strategy different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastEditorUserId="23431" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T16:54:31.110" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T16:54:31.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2011-08-15T23:35:50.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to maximize the number of numbers I have.  This works especially well when playing with the lake tile from Traders and Barbarians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last game I played, I was eventually able to get something (unless being robbed or a seven is rolled) with each roll and won because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T23:35:50.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-08-15T23:48:41.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One house rule we typically use is to reroll when a seven is rolled and no one has yet gained an extra point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastActivityDate="2011-08-15T23:48:41.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4448" CreationDate="2011-08-16T06:37:34.907" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a Eucre expert by any means, but in my opinion, &lt;strong&gt;not leading the ♡A is foolish advice.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's the only heart in your hand, then the odds are greater that your opponents will also have hearts. As you say, the dealer is likely strong in red. The best chance you have of winning the trick is on the opening lead. Why would you lead a suit which relies on your partner having an ace or being void in diamonds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst case scenario: they will have to trump your ace, and since you only have two trump, neither top, and one bower is turned down, it is good to force your opponents to use their trump in that situation rather than, say, using their trump to overtrump yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, and more importantly, after you lead the Ace you will be void in hearts, and able to trump any further heart tricks. You're already void in Spades and can trump any of those tricks your partner can't take. You can slough off your diamonds on spades or hearts if your partner takes those tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My general line of thought is that since I am void in spades, I'm best to become void in diamonds to increase my chances of using my trump on off suit leads by my opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why lead a suit that you have two cards in when you can void hearts immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T06:37:34.907" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2011-08-16T13:15:23.063" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use common card protectors like people use to protect cards from trading cards games (Magic, etc). What your stuff in there (printed cardboard, paper-glued-on-other-cards,...) then becomes pretty much irrelevant.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, what about photo printing services? Look for ones making postcards, you can probably easily fit 4 cards on a potcards and they ought to be rigid enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1698" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T13:15:23.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4080" CreationDate="2011-08-16T14:35:47.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a web site that you can enter in the following parameters and it'll create a blind structure for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Number of players:&#xA;Tournament length (hours):&#xA;Smallest chip denomination:&#xA;Starting chips:&#xA;Round length (minutes):&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pokersoup.com/tool/blindStructureCalculator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pokersoup.com/tool/blindStructureCalculator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T14:35:47.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2011-08-16T15:25:56.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While one can't riffle-shuffle well, laminating 110# (110 pound) cardstock with Con-Tac brand vinyl does allow for hanafuda style shuffling, and works quite well. The resultant cards are tough, easily handled in play, and durable. (I did this for playtesting the Freemarket RPG.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've made decks of cards using 110#  card stock, and it's HEAVIER than most cheap poker cards; it lacks the plastic coating, tho, making it less smooth to riffle shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90# high-linen high-clay bond makes great cards; it's hard to find. Same issues as unlaminated cardstock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T15:25:56.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4472" CreationDate="2011-08-16T16:31:19.190" Score="10" ViewCount="4030" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly, they track the quantity of each suit and the high value cards, but I'm curious if good bridge players also remember, say, whether someone ducked the ace using a 7 of spades vs a 6 of spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T06:38:54.607" Title="Do good bridge players memorize all cards played?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2011-08-16T16:55:47.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most tournaments, the big blind can go all-in blind as well. However, the actual raise does not happen until it is that player's turn. It does commit those chips to the pot, but other players can raise in front of him and do not have to consider his bet when making their raises. So any raise before the big blind would not have that all-in included in their minimum raise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is considered bad form to announce your intentions out of turn. Some players take more offense to it than others. And while this move may be understandable, and even expected, you are inviting players to play against only you, reducing your odds of winning as more hands in means more hands that can beat you. You could win your all-in if a bluff pushes someone out ahead of you that was better for a side pot if they have a worse hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastEditorUserId="1523" LastEditDate="2011-08-17T17:09:21.950" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T17:09:21.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4448" CreationDate="2011-08-16T17:16:15.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I would only call clubs there if you need the point.  If you are in the lead or close then you are taking a risk.  The JAQ10 are out there and could be in your opponents hand. That is a good club hand but if you have no other spades its tough to call op a bower when you have a loner hand in the off suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second when you do call clubs you need some help.  Quite a bit of help actually.  You lead ace is really the only point you can count.  Being short spades is good and should lead to another but that is not for sure. If you lead diamonds you will lose the lead and you can not be certian that hearts will be lead back.  And by the time it does one of your opponents may have had a chance to throw off their lone heart meaning they can trump your ace.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an opponent has JA of clubs and you lose the first trick to an ace you are certian of going set.  Your partner may be able to throw off a card that is doing him no good with your ace.  That may short suit him in diamonds letting you lead diamonds back and he gets a point you desperately need. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T17:16:15.607" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4482" CreationDate="2011-08-16T17:53:23.380" Score="12" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group and I enjoy Role-playing games.  However we can't always get the same number of people together week after week in order to finish one campaign.  What would be great is a boardgame that we could finish in one evening that has one person (The GM) against everyone else (4-6 other people).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a recognized style of game?  What would it be called and how could I identify such games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1701" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T02:54:22.723" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T02:54:22.723" Title="One vs Many board games" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="17" ClosedDate="2012-01-08T06:35:20.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-08-16T18:53:58.170" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've tried to replace the robber with a more benevolent figure (we used a LEGO Dumbledore microfig but you can just reuse the robber figure and call it, say, a magician)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you roll a 7, move the magician to the tile you want&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the number on which the magician sits is rolled, all tiles overlooked by the magician get double the ressources for that turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We came up with that because we don't like the robber that much, and it sped up the game quite a bit. Now, I suppose any house rule which gives more ressources would shorten the game length, but with that one is slightly strategic in nature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there's also the bog-standard way to change the duration of the game: instead of 10 victory points, aim for less (8 for example). As long as you agree before starting the game :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1698" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T18:53:58.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:12:51.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this answer depends on your meaning of the word 'good'.  However, I consider myself a good bridge player, and find myself not often needing to track the nuanced difference between 6 and 7.  Most hands are not decided in table play, but in the bidding, and most are determined by leading, the high cards and the trump suit.   There are situations where I would need to track a spade 6 or 7, but often that's when I've got a hole that I need my partner to fill, or attempt a finesse.  In such situations, I'm looking specifically for those problem cards, so I don't need to track &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are unforeseen situations where tracking every card could give a slight edge, but those happen so infrequently that it won't make much of a difference in one's overall 'goodness'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, there are mnemonic tricks that allow one to easily track all cards, I just find it not worth the effort in standard bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:12:51.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4278" CreationDate="2011-08-16T21:20:28.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two well-known Scrabble AIs.   One is the commercial &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maven_%28Scrabble%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maven&lt;/a&gt; which is made by Atari and bundles with most official Scrabble versions.  The alternative is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://people.csail.mit.edu/jasonkb/quackle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quackle&lt;/a&gt; and is free open-source and of comparable strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-08-16T21:20:28.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4386" CreationDate="2011-08-17T02:22:30.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can actually shortcut all three of them to 1 Quiddity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar question myself, and found on another forum the official answer from a representative from Wizkids, the game publisher (released 8/15/2011):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/686929/wizkids-faq-8152011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Q) Can portals keep pulling themselves?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) Yes, but if you are only pulling portals, the player may declare that the end state of 1 Quiddity is reached and not have to keep rolling them (simulate infinite rolls).&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moment you try to use your first +2 portal, it goes into the used pile. Since now you have two dice in your bag/used pile (the portal you pulled on the first go plus the one you just used), you can reroll them. At this point you're only pulling portals, so you can actually shortcut all three of them and get the +3 total Quiddity you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1629" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T17:44:10.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4476" CreationDate="2011-08-17T10:06:06.173" Score="36" ViewCount="3479" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the scenario: He attacks with a 4/4, and I block with a 1/1. I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Test%20of%20Faith&quot;&gt;Test of Faith&lt;/a&gt; on my 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say his creature dies, because I block three damage and become a 4/4, killing him, but he says that the +1/+1 counters don't come into play until all damage has been effected, meaning the 4th damage point would kill my creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="1434" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T17:09:22.627" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:09:22.627" Title="How is Test of Faith resolved?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4475" CreationDate="2011-08-17T10:49:37.560" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;P1 controls A: 4/4 attacker&#xA;P2 controls B: 1/1 blocker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Test of Faith has been cast and has resolved (probably during the declare blockers step, after declaring your blocker), it is not on the stack. When it resolves it creates a prevention shield that floats around, waiting for damage to prevent or the end of the turn to expire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The declare attackers and blockers steps finish and the combat damage step begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P1 announces how attacking creatures assign damage (in this case, the only option is 4 damage from A to B).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P2 announces how blocking creatures assign damage (in this case, the only option is 1 damage from B to A).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is dealt simultaneously as originally assigned, so your creature will only ever deal 1 damage in this combat even if its power changes now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature A takes 1 damage; creature B would take 4, but the Test of Faith shields change that: 3 damage is prevented, and 3 (permanent) +1/+1 counters are put on Creature B and it takes 1 damage.&#xA;Even if the 4th point of damage lands before the counters are put down, neither player gains priority and so state-based effects (such as a creature dying) are not checked before the counters are placed. &lt;em&gt;For more on this point, see thesunneversets' answer below.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both creatures are 4/4 and have taken 1 damage this turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combat damage step ends and the end of combat step begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result:&lt;/strong&gt; neither creature dies; neither of you were correct!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Combat_Phase&quot;&gt;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Combat_Phase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1546" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T16:53:50.857" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T16:53:50.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2011-08-17T13:23:29.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that SOME good players will memorize individual cards (because they have a &quot;knack&quot; for it. But many, probably will NOT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a &quot;good&quot; player, but know that it is important to size up the hand. That means looking out for opposing honors, and also for missing trumps. Tn this way, I focus on maybe 10 of the 26 opposing cards. Sometimes more (13-15), if there is a critical side suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets exponentially harder at each step; going from tracking 7 cards to 13, and 13 to 26 (that is, quadrupling difficulty for each numerical doubling). Most good players take the first steps (up to 13). Some go all the way to 26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his autobiography, Lee Iacocca told the story of how his boss, Robert McNamara was shown a 750 page presentation, and on page 724, he said, &quot;That contradicts something you said on page nine.&quot; That kind of skill does exist, but it's pretty rare. Iacocca himself probably didn't have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T13:23:29.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4475" CreationDate="2011-08-17T13:39:32.283" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;One useful place to look for rulings on cards is gatherer.wizards.com - if you &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=43587&quot;&gt;look up Test of Faith there&lt;/a&gt; you can click through to display the following useful ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;01/12/2004    The +1/+1 counters are put onto the creature at the time&#xA;  the damage is prevented. If a 1/1 creature would be dealt 6 damage, 3&#xA;  damage is prevented and three +1/+1 counters are put onto the&#xA;  creature. The creature is a 4/4 creature with 3 damage on it, so it&#xA;  won't be destroyed because State-Based Actions aren't checked until&#xA;  after Test of Faith is finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short I agree with (and will upvote) Samthere's answer, but this is just to advise you of a useful resource that may help to resolve future disputes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T13:39:32.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2011-08-17T15:19:25.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stolen from Settlers of America.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A new currency is added: Gold.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On any non-robber roll if you receive no resources you receive 1 gold. Gold can not be stolen, but it can be traded to other players (usually 1 gold to sweeten a deal), or traded (maximum of twice per turn) to the bank for any resource at rate of 2 gold=1 resource.&#xA;This doesn't speed up the game a ton, but like most of the other answers putting more resources in the game results in a faster finish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We've talked about (but have not play tested either of these &lt;strong&gt;yet&lt;/strong&gt;) having a settlement on the desert give you 1 gold when the robber is rolled OR having any settlements on the desert gives you a single extra gold when you receive no resources (never more than 2 though, even if you have 3 cities around the desert.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T15:19:25.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4386" CreationDate="2011-08-17T15:49:08.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although, I can't figure out why (in reality) you would only have the dice in your example. Because you only cull a die when you score with another die.  And your assistant is now the only score-able &quot;creature&quot; left in your pool...it could happen, but it shouldn't (if you actually want to win).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, the rules states &quot;immediate effects&quot; such as Portals are resolved immediately and multiple immediate effects are resolved in any order you wish.  The 2 portal you rolled is  actively used to draw the two additional portals...after that it  would be moved to &quot;Used&quot; and could be drawn by one of the other portals, but one of your portals would alway be in play as a &quot;portal&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the last portal roll came up as a 1 portal and the drawn die rolled 1 Quiddity.  You'd never get to that last portal in the bag.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since you can't guarantee the last &quot;in-play&quot; portal would alway roll a &quot;2&quot; portal when the others each rolled quiddity.  you could only  theoretically &quot;short-circuit&quot; one of the dice to the only non-portal action of 1 Quiddity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T15:49:08.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4100" CreationDate="2011-08-17T16:07:20.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snitch would have to be &lt;strong&gt;valid&lt;/strong&gt; to undo Simplifier...and the Simplifier card text states that it has no effect for the rest of the game...     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...no &lt;strong&gt;Snitching&lt;/strong&gt; for the &lt;strong&gt;Simpleton&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T16:07:20.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-08-17T18:01:29.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One vs. Many&lt;/strong&gt; is a fairly recent term concerning boardgames.  There aren't any dedicated lists on Boardgamegeek that I was able to find.  However, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/tag/one_vs_many&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tag&lt;/a&gt; by that name that you can use to find games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, see the list of One Vs. Many games in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/59859/peakhopes-comprehensive-list-of-purely-cooperative&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GeekList devoted to Cooperative games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Cooperative Games&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooperative games are also a type of game you may wish to consider.  It has become very popular in recent years.  Instead of contesting with each other, the players work together to beat &amp;quot;the game&amp;quot;.  In many ways, the game system acts as the GM against the players.  The above list is very thorough if you want to see some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Traitor Mechanic&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another related term to look for is boardgames with a &lt;strong&gt;Traitor&lt;/strong&gt; mechanic. A game with a traitor is cooperative except for usually one traitor who works against everyone else.  However the identity of the traitor is not usually initially known.  These sorts of games can be a lot of fun if your group enjoys playing mental tricks on each other.  A geeklist, of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/71038/comprehensive-list-of-cooperative-games-with-hidde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;games with a hidden traitor mechanic&lt;/a&gt; can be helpful in locating those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T18:01:29.897" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-08-17T18:09:47.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Descent&lt;/strong&gt; from Fantasy Flight Games (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17226/descent-journeys-in-the-dark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17226/descent-journeys-in-the-dark&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly the game you describe - one player takes the role of basically the GM, the other players the party and the game plays as a dungeon crawl. There are a lot of scenarios, expansions and even rules for making it more akin to a campaign. Probably an exact fit for what you are looking for (a group of RPG players looking for a boardgame experience that scratches the same gameplay itch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another route to consider, however, might be games that do away with the DM/GM entirely in favor of a fully cooperative experience where the players work together to compete against the game itself (with each game taking slightly different approaches to the &quot;GM&quot; like elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few of this increasingly popular genre that come to mind are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards of Coast's Ravenloft and Wrath of Asharadalon games are both cooperative games with a D&amp;amp;D flavor but are boardgames. They run without a GM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are older games that could also fit this style of play at least in some cases. Heroscape (or for that matter Warhammer) could be played with one person controlling a large army facing off against a team of people each controlling smaller armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T18:09:47.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="775" CreationDate="2011-08-17T21:54:28.880" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The great chess grandmaster Savielly Tartakower had the best explanation of the difference that I have ever heard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tactics is knowing what to do when there is something to do. &#xA;  Strategy is knowing what to do when there is nothing to do.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't improve on that. Not even a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(posted by robusto on English.SE&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1709" LastActivityDate="2011-08-17T21:54:28.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2011-08-18T07:47:17.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Traders and Barbarians expansion there are 2 rules that would help for this situation ( and it also helps when playing with kids ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of 36 cards that represent the distribution of rolls. Draw from the cards until 5 or so remain. This makes it quite likely that even the 12 or 2 hex produces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The robber is not allowed to steal from or affect a player with 2 or fewer victory points. ( i.e. everyone at the beginning of the game. )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1710" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-08-20T02:49:26.070" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T02:49:26.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4490" CreationDate="2011-08-18T08:07:08.340" Score="3" ViewCount="4278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you think these games have enough in common to start a serious, competitive club focusing around them? There's definitely enough between Go and Chess, but what about MahJong? I know there is plenty of strategy behind MahJong, having played it, but is it too far removed from the other two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T19:05:53.903" Title="Go, MahJong, and Chess. Together?" Tags="|chess|mahjong|go|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2020-01-22T04:01:53.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-08-18T08:17:34.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's a style of game that is recognized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the better ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Descent (Mentioned in detail by Shannon, so I won't)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battlestations!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Car Wars (pre-5th ed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HeroQuest/Advanced Heroquest (Milton Bradly - OOP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space Hulk &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GW's Inquisitor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battlestations is tricky, in that it's a board game of tactical shipboard actions, a board game of ship-to-ship or ship-vs-setup, and a role-playing game. It's excellent, and exactly fits the stated need. (If your need isn't well stated...) It's also a silly, Trek-ish but not Trek, setting. It does support campaign play and character development, as well as ship improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car Wars, like Battlestations, can be run as board game or RPG, and in one-off or campaign mode. At the moment, it's print-n-play, but SJG has the Compendium and some counters and supplements on e23. And there's a lot of fan-stuff out there, too. It's more work than Battlestations, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Milton Bradley's HeroQuest and Advanced HeroQuest, and the spin-off Warhammer Quest, are highly tactical games of dungeon invasion. While out of print, the MB ones had all the rules posted on the HasBro web site for years, and may still. It's pretty doable to do this one up as a Print-n-play, tho' it is a lot of work. Due to it being joint GW and MB, a reprint is highly unlikely for any of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Space Hulk may say 2p, but many missions for 1st ed were multi-squad, and suitable for one player per squad. Just add 30% more blips per additional squad, and 20% more space... you will need multiple base boxes, tho'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inquisitor is a minis game. Officially in 56mm, the GW 30mm stuff works just fine by halving all ranges. Heck, it works fine just by using 30mm and not halving the ranges. It's most suited for ongoing games, but it's still quite doable for well prepped one-shots of multiple gangs at a storyline encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T08:17:34.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2011-08-18T08:26:13.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all types of mahjong except Riichi-mahjong, the tiles are discarded into the pool at the center, usually in no particular order. If you have a very good memory, you can remember what tiles were discarded by whom. From this, you can gain information about what kinds of hands your opponent might be going for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if your opponent discards a 5 of circles and a 6 of circles in two consecutive turns, you can assume that it is very likely that they're going for a hand consisting of few circle tiles, an outside hand (terminals and honors in every set), or something similar. However, this depends on the style of mahjong you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get more information about your opponent's hand based on the their discards, it is usually best to familiarize yourself with the types of hands that can win, and the point values associated with each hand. Then, you can deduce the kinds of tiles in your opponent's hands based on the discards that you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just keep in mind that a good opponent could also be attempting to trick you, so while the likelihood of the tiles in their hands swings one way, it's not definite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T08:26:13.943" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-08-18T10:39:02.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A classic &quot;German style&quot; game with One vs Many mechanics is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/438/scotland-yard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scotland Yard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played it in years (decades?), but I remember it as a simple, fun game where &quot;Mister X&quot; - played by one player - is chased on a map of London by the other players who have to work together to catch him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="512" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T10:39:02.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-08-18T11:08:25.440" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel there are two major differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go and chess are strictly strategic, whereas mahjong involves chance,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In go and chess, everyone has complete knowledge of the game at all times; in mahjong you don't know what your opponents have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mahjong is kinda of like poker or gin rummy in these ways; they more strongly depend on reading your opponent. So, in terms of core properties, I think mahjong is a different category of game to go and chess. Additionally, mahjong is more rules-heavy compared to the rules-light, strategy-rich go and chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's no reason not to play it in a club, as long as there are people who want to play it. Probably the best way to find out if it's suitable for your club is to try making the club, and offering mahjong as an option. If people don't want to play it or don't take it as seriously, then you can move your focus to the other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T11:08:25.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-08-18T11:52:28.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see these as a natural blend with one another, but whether they fit may not really matter.  As noted earlier, Mahjong (or dominoes for that matter) is much more luck oriented as opposed to the strategy involved in Chess or Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're considering starting a club, as with any other group or &lt;em&gt;ahem&lt;/em&gt; forum, you need a critical mass of interested participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking of a club for serious play then your club's focus can be about tournament level play first and the specific game second, in which case you can fit in any game you feel will help you attract participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T11:52:28.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4465" CreationDate="2011-08-18T11:57:47.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game you want is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20963/fury-of-dracula&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fury of Dracula&lt;/a&gt;. One person plays Dracula who moves around Europe using a really awesome mechanic of hidden cards. One to four players are the vampire hunters who try to find Dracula without getting killed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T11:57:47.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-18T14:57:39.087" Score="10" ViewCount="3627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an avid card player, and I have a particular love for trick-taking games (above all, Hearts and Spades). I've wanted to learn to play bridge for a long time, and I've bought two different books on the subject, but neither really launched me into playing. For experienced players, what is the best way to learn to play bridge, for someone who is already experienced and comfortable in four-person trick-taking games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just master the most basic rules and then try playing? I find this works well for Hearts and Spades, but I'm not sure that the complexity of Bridge will be as easily acquired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1713" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T22:37:35.000" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T22:37:35.000" Title="Is it better to learn to play bridge by reading about it, or just playing?" Tags="|bridge|teaching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2011-08-18T15:42:06.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you'd be hard-pushed to learn Bridge just by reading about it.  There are many, many excellent books out there, but until you're sitting down at an actual table it will be hard to visualise what it actually feels like, having only partial information, trying urgently to communicate your hand to your partner despite your opponent continually getting in your way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally, I think it'd be a slow process learning Bridge just by playing it.  Sure, you'll get better and better as the fundamental concepts begin to dawn on you; but Bridge is an &lt;em&gt;immensely&lt;/em&gt; subtle and sophisticated game and some of the finest game-playing minds of this and last century have thought about it for millions of hours.  Reading some of the greatest writers on the subject will be a short-cut to ideas and epiphanies that would take you years or decades to stumble across in the course of playing with just the basics under your belt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, yes I would &quot;just master the most basic rules and then try playing&quot;; but I'd make sure to keep reading more, then playing more, then reading more again!  Bridge is an incredibly deep game, perhaps unequalled in depth by any other game - you could easily spend your life playing it, mastering it, assimilating the ideas of others who have tried to master it.  It's well worth it though - I envy you your journey!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T15:42:06.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4496" CreationDate="2011-08-18T15:50:51.103" Score="55" ViewCount="6729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing M:tG for nearly a decade now. I understand the rules very well, I've participated in a few draft tournaments, and I've built a few decks that I'm very proud of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, I seem to have hit a wall in my MtG deck-building ability. In draft tournaments I rarely finish in the top half. I see other players pulling cards that I've discounted as low-power or junk, then I'm astounded at how effective they make them. (I rarely read MtG sites, so I'm not often aware of what the &quot;buzz&quot; around the best cards is.) When I look at the deck listings for top tournament decks, I often can't understand how they're supposed to play or why they're so powerful. I realize that the better players are able to see interactions between cards and identify sources of power that are effectively invisible to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I get past this block?&lt;/strong&gt; I realize that this is a broad question, but I'm wondering if there's a blog, a book, or a series of articles that can help a middling, mostly casual player up his level of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details on my play style, which may help focus answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm definitely a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr11b&quot;&gt;Johnny&lt;/a&gt;. I strongly prefer the black/green/white side of the spectrum. I almost never play red/blue. I find that I'm naturally drawn to the following mechanics, and tend to build decks that contain lots of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life gain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature buffs, +1 tokens, regeneration, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature destruction, -1 tokens, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-size creatures (neither 1/1 weenies nor 8/8 monsters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchantments of all kinds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-land mana generation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas I consistently underestimate the effectiveness and fall prey to decks that contain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifacts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Draw a card&quot; spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when I've tried to stretch myself and build a deck using these mechanics, what I built was much weaker than what a friend of mine built starting from the same card pool. Furthermore, I have a hard time building decks that can successfully resist a deck that's heavy in creature control or direct damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:46:59.880" LastActivityDate="2020-07-30T16:36:07.117" Title="How can I improve my deck building skills?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-08-18T16:20:09.013" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does seem, from your description of your play style, that you do have a problem in &lt;strong&gt;consistently misinterpreting what things help people win Magic games&lt;/strong&gt;.  Let's have a look at some of the things you say you like, and that you underestimate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LIKES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifegain - with a few rare exceptions, lifegain cards are TERRIBLE - they do nothing to help you win the game, just slow down the rate at which you lose it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature buffs - if you spend a card putting +1/+1 counters on a creature, and your opponent Terrors it, you've just 2-for-1'd yourself.  Not good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature destruction - okay, your instincts are correct on this one.  Removal is and always will be king.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-sized creatures - these &lt;em&gt;tend&lt;/em&gt; to be the least efficient choice.  Either you want highly efficient &quot;weenies&quot; who can win the game for you fast, or you want massive monsters who can end the game in a couple of swings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchantments of all kinds - I assume you include Auras in this.  See the 2-for-1 problem I mentioned under Creature Buffs, above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mana generation - it would be fair to say that mana ramp strategies can play a part in successful Tier One decks; but you need a definite game plan and a strong likelihood of consistently using all your mana every turn.  Just having more mana than your opponent, while he's swarming you with creatures, seems like a really bad place to be!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UNDERESTIMATES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct damage - this is obviously amazing, because it can act as 1-for-1 removal early on to keep you in the game; but then go straight to the opponent's dome later, when you're only a few life points away from victory.  Look at Fireball and it shouldn't be hard to understand why this is a top pick in almost any draft format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature control - Mind Control is also a #1 draft pick.  By casting it you not only gain a creature, you &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; steal the opponent's best creature, making it a sort of automatic 2-for-1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifacts - well, these vary from good to bad, but one of the great things about artifacts is that they don't require a complicated manabase to pilot.  Artifact decks never get mana screwed, so you shouldn't underestimate them!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card draw - something like Divination may not &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; impressive, but you need to get your head around the idea that getting 2 cards return for an outlay of 1 card is the cornerstone of winning games of Magic...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that you would do well to learn more about the principle of card advantage.  If your opponent plays a card and you remove it with a card, you're level pegging.  If you play two creature cards and he removes them with one card, he's a card up.  If you play a card that gives you 7 life, he's also a card up.  Whoever is the most cards up at the end of the game often wins!  The alternative, of course, is blazing speed: kill your opponent before he can get too many cards up on you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could talk about this stuff forever but this answer is already getting long; hopefully there are plenty of things for you to think about here already!  Feel free to ask about anything that is unclear in the comments though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T14:22:32.890" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T14:22:32.890" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2011-08-18T19:20:12.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your goal is to play good bridge, you need to do both: reading and playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading will make you familiar with the distilled thoughts of experts, card play techniques, bidding issues etc, which they arrived at, after having had years of experience. It is unlikely that one single individual will ever gain that through his/her own playing experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in theory this is all fine, to play good, winning bridge, you need to be focused at the table, and be able to do: Counting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to count the hand (high cards, distribution) is the single most important ability which separates the good players from the average player, and for most this only comes from playing. Not counting vs counting is compared to driving blind vs looking where you are going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn things quickly: do some reading, play some hands and do a post-mortem of the hands you played with a better player who knows the stuff. Rinse, Repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to learn and improve is to actively look for your mistakes (which can only happen if you actually play), ideally by doing a post-mortem along with a player who is good enough to figure them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would highly recommend you read this blog post from Justin Lall (who won the silver medal in the recent world championship: Bermuda Bowl): &lt;a href=&quot;http://justinlall.wordpress.com/2006/04/26/how-to-improve-your-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://justinlall.wordpress.com/2006/04/26/how-to-improve-your-game/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-05-01T21:15:06.563" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T21:15:06.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-08-18T20:38:04.847" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start listening to the excellent &lt;strong&gt;Limited Resources&lt;/strong&gt; podcast, found &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or by finding it in iTunes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Marshall Sutcliffe and the various guests he brings on have played a TON of Limited Magic and are very good at explaining concepts and strategies to help you improve your game. In fact, BOTH of the former co-hosts of the podcast, Ryan Spain and Jon Loucks, got hired by Wizards of the Coast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This episode, &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com/limited-resources-95-card-evaluation-revisited/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Card Evaluation Revisited&quot;&lt;/a&gt; sounds like it exactly deals with the problem you're having right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T17:27:49.737" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T17:27:49.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4493" CreationDate="2011-08-18T20:45:36.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two aspects of bridge: bidding, and playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bidding, you HAVE to read. Basically, you have to learn about point count, distribution, and at least the &quot;standard&quot; bidding conventions. There's no way around it, but it's not a heavy burden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately for you, the time spent in bridge is about one-third (or less) bidding, and the rest playing. In the latter part, you have a natural advantage over other beginners, with your other playing experience. There are a few standard playing techniques, and quite a few &quot;tricks,&quot; most of which you can pick up as you go along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to bidding: In some beginners' classes, the teacher will examine each hand in turn and tell people how to bid.  But &quot;reading&quot; is still the best way to learn bidding, certainly without a teacher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T20:45:36.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-08-18T20:55:38.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go and Mahjong can &quot;go&quot; together insofar as they might both attract Asian players. The best place to start such a club is in a physical &quot;Asiatown&quot; in a place like New York City, or perhaps one on line. If you wanted to add &quot;chess&quot; to the mix, I would suggest Chinese chess and/or Japanese shogi in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, go and chess are strategic games that both attract &quot;geeks,&quot; who probably aren't turned on by the &quot;chanciness&quot; of Mah Jong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, starting a club is about knowing your audience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T20:55:38.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-08-18T21:01:52.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My technique was to build a new deck every week.  I would focus on one card and try to build a deck around it.  It was always a card that I deemed worthless.   I tried to build the deck with out any of my favorite cards to avoid falling into relying on them instead of trying new things.  I would play that deck all week (Yeah blew far too many nights at the game shop instead of out chasing women) until I had it tweaked and I learned how to use it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exposed me to different defenses against these cards as well.  All of this made me a better player all around and helped me to develop my favorite decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastActivityDate="2011-08-18T21:01:52.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4495" CreationDate="2011-08-19T14:33:10.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;two things: &#xA;1- to add on to @thesunneversets answer, evasion is also a good factor for winning a game &lt;strong&gt;in limited&lt;/strong&gt;, and coming up with ways to block evasion.  it's hard to block flying if you don't have fliers yourself, or something that can block them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- wizard's website for magic has weekly columns on a lot of different topic.  i suggest reading the ones that interest you the most.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Archive.aspx?tag=Column&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizards Columns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T15:19:23.597" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T15:19:23.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4153" CreationDate="2011-08-19T15:09:54.080" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mark's answer above is correct, but I wanted to expand on this and couldn't do it properly in comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't count &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; damage, but they do count as &lt;em&gt;dealing&lt;/em&gt; damage &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; their source is from a creature with the &lt;em&gt;Infect&lt;/em&gt; static ability. The &quot;&lt;em&gt;deals damage in the form of poison counters&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is probably the reminder text for the &lt;em&gt;Infect&lt;/em&gt; keyword:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infect&lt;/strong&gt; (This deals damage to creatures in the form of -1/-1 counters and players in the form of poison counters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a ruling on &lt;em&gt;Infect&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt to a player from a creature with infect does not deal damage as well as poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage is assigned as a number and can be prevented as normal, but when it is dealt to a player it turns into poison counters &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt; of reducing their life total. Damage has still been dealt, provided it was not reduced to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a creature with &lt;em&gt;Poisonous&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;N&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; deals damage normally and has a triggered ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever this creature deals damage to a player, that player gets &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case damage &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; dealt &lt;em&gt;as damage&lt;/em&gt; as long as it isn't reduced to 0, and that triggers the &lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt; poison counters regardless of how much damage was dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, damage is dealt, whether or not it results in loss of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T15:22:21.173" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T15:22:21.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4447" CreationDate="2011-08-19T19:48:39.370" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;19-back is a not uncommon cribbage variant, but is often unpopular. I've seen it in &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; editions of Hoyle's Card Games; I've had 3 editions, read a fourth, and 2 of them had it. Unfortunately, my copies are not available to check exact wordings at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Typically:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If your hand scores no points in count phase, you lose 19 points. Note that this doesn't apply to the crib, only the hand, and only applies if you get to count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some people understand it to be:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If, during your turn, you score no points in play nor from hand during count, you lose 19 points. This applies at point of pegging the hand, before going to the crib. Again, if you don't get to count, it doesn't apply. Note that this means the dealer can't 19-back, as a dealer ALWAYS gets at least 1 point in play (either a 31, go, or last), and why this is not the usual version of 19-back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;discussion:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The naming is in part because 19 is impossible to achieve in the scoring phase. It is not uncommon for a 0-point hand to be called a &quot;19&quot;... since experienced cribbage players know that 19 is impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having played it, it reduces risk taking in card selection, due to the need to ensure points in scoring. Note that it also tends to reduce crib scores a bit as well, as the dealer has to make suboptimal decisions in order to keep points in hand. Also, it penalizes (pretty heavily) a &quot;playing only hand&quot; that fails to take one to 121+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A playing hand being a low-point hand with strong potential to get points from by-mees or expected runs and doubles, such as AA22 (goes for the Go points) or 55AA (for getting 15's) or AAAF (F=any face; goes for the goes and pairs at high count). A Playing Only hand has no points itself, but expects to get them in play, such as A2TK or A389.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-08-19T20:16:08.577" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T20:16:08.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4446" CreationDate="2011-08-19T20:13:19.547" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several sites state this truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rubl.com/rules/cribbage-statistics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rubl.com/rules/cribbage-statistics.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-19T20:13:19.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4508" CreationDate="2011-08-20T01:01:43.663" Score="6" ViewCount="2877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played a brand new copy of Candy Land with my son and noticed a character named &lt;strong&gt;Lord Licorice&lt;/strong&gt;, who I don't remember from playing the game when I was a child. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Candy_Land&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Candy Land Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; mentions several changes that were made to the game--including character changes--as it was updated through the years, but there's no mention of Lord Licorice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I just completely mis-remembering a canonical character, or was he added some time after the early 1980s? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T01:06:06.617" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T01:06:06.617" Title="When was the Lord Licorice character added to Candy Land?" Tags="|history|candy-land|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4507" CreationDate="2011-08-20T01:21:25.243" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Candy Land &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Candy_Land_50th_Anniversary_Edition.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;50th Anniversary Edition Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1985:&lt;/strong&gt; “The Legend of the Lost Candy Castle” story and characters introduced to game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume, Since Lord Licorice is the antagonist of that story, that he was introduced then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'They'll never find the hidden King or his Castle,' Lord Licorice says sourly... 'for I have hidden them from sight so that all of Candy Land will be mine!' His heart is as hard as rock candy. Always gloomy, always grim, Lord Licorice lives very much alone, except for the few Bitter Chocolate Bats to keep him company!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Utter nonsense,' Queen Frostine says of Lord Licorice's evil plan. Peacefully adrift on an Ice Cream Float in an Ice Cream Sea, warm-hearted Frostine thinks the Candy Land Kids will surely find the King. 'And no matter how many times Lord Licorice plots and plans,' she adds, 'Candy Land will sparkle once again.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/candyland/en_US/discover/history.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;History Page&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on Hasbro's site. It appears that the version labeled &amp;quot;1980s&amp;quot; has Lord Licorice, while the &amp;quot;1970s&amp;quot; version does not. According to the Candy Land wikipedia page, there was a version published in 1978, and another in 1985. I've done some web searches, and &amp;quot;1984 edition&amp;quot; comes up in searches. Perhaps there were different copyright/publishing dates in different countries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I can't find any reference to Lord Licorice on boards for the 1978 or earlier editions…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T23:01:35.787" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-20T02:10:11.957" Score="5" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read and re-read the rules for shifting marines, but I'm still completely baffled as to how shifting is supposed to work in Death Angel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This evening I had the following setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dark Corner - Brother Claudio - Ventilation Duct - Genestealer&#xA;       Door - Brother Zael    - Corridor&#xA;              Brother Goriel&#xA;              Brother Noctis&#xA;              Brother Omnio&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Brother Claudio's &amp;quot;Heroic Charge&amp;quot; attack, and since my die appears to be loaded, I rolled yet another 0 and Brother Claudio died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for shifting state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shifting is resolved by taking every Terrain card, Space Marine card, and Genestaeler card in the smaller segment of the formation and moving them up or down to fill in the slain Space Marine's previous position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The smallest segment is defined as the half of the formation that contains the least Space Marine cards.  If both segments of the formation are even, the bottom segment is shifted up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once Brother Claudio dies, I'm left with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dark Corner - ??????????????? - Ventilation Duct - Genestealer&#xA;       Door - Brother Zael    - Corridor&#xA;              Brother Goriel&#xA;              Brother Noctis&#xA;              Brother Omnio&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 1:&lt;/strong&gt;  When are the formation halves determined, before or after the marine dies?  And what happens when you have an odd number of marines, what exactly is a segment?  And in this case, does it really even matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Should (1) the Dark Corner, Ventilation Duct and Genestealer from Claudio's row shift down to Brother Zael, placing the Dark Corner and Door both on Zael's left, and the Ventilation Duct, Corridor and Genestealer on the right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Door / Dark Corner - Brother Zael    - Ventilation Duct / Corridor - Genestealer&#xA;                     Brother Goriel&#xA;                     Brother Noctis&#xA;                     Brother Omnio&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or (2) should Zael shift up to where Claudio was, Goriel shifts up to where Zael was, and Noctis and Omnio stay where they are, leaving the formation as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dark Corner - Brother Zael    - Ventilation Duct - Genestealer&#xA;       Door - Brother Goriel  - Corridor&#xA;              Brother Noctis&#xA;              Brother Omnio&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone more clearly sum up the rules for shifting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T17:20:02.893" Title="How is &quot;shifting&quot; supposed to work in Death Angel?" Tags="|death-angel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4509" CreationDate="2011-08-20T06:44:05.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;by my understanding...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the halves are determined by looking at the space left by the dead marine. So it's after removing him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that, yes, when claudio dies in your example, the terrain all winds up at the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T06:44:05.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-20T10:47:13.783" Score="8" ViewCount="38421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that the Pokémon TCG cards from the old sets, like base, jungle, fossile etc, aren't allowed in tournaments anymore. Why are they forbidden? The old cards seem to be consistently weaker, so it can't be a balance issue. Are there incompatibilities between the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: Which sets are forbidden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1717" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T21:09:15.347" Title="Why are the old Pokémon TCG sets not allowed in modern tournaments?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-20T15:50:12.050" Score="39" ViewCount="13520" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2580/why-does-magic-use-the-paris-mulligan-rule&quot;&gt;Determining when to mulligan is a very important skill in magic.&lt;/a&gt; But how can I hone my abilities in that skill? Obviously if I had no/all land I'd probably want to mulligan as the opportunity to actually cast some of my spells are worth the 1 card penalty. But what about when I only have 1 land or 1 spell? Are there any good rules of thumb to help me make this decision? How can knowing my deck make these choices easier? What other elements of my hand should I look at when making this decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:22:05.490" Title="How can I tell when to take a mulligan in Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mulligans|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4523" CreationDate="2011-08-20T16:19:23.157" Score="13" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's fairly easy to choose between the different plantations when the settler phase comes around as you just have to evaluate which you have the production capacity for or which you would be able to buy the production capacity for, and take into account what other goods you can produce and what other players can. However, Quarries are a little different, and sometimes I find it difficult to choose if I should take one or not. Here's some rules I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have 2 quarries yet and there's at least 4 builder phases left. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there's no plantations I want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there aren't many left and I want to deny another player the privilege of having one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only take a 3rd or 4th Quarry if it will make a big difference in being able to get a very valuable building, usually from the third or fourth tier.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What rules do you use when determining if you should take a Quarry? What are the most notable situations when you should NOT take a Quarry when you are able to? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2011-08-22T15:51:27.037" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T15:51:27.037" Title="In Puerto Rico, When should I NOT take a Quarry when I have the opportunity to?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4512" CreationDate="2011-08-20T17:06:18.930" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, knowing your deck inside out and comparing your draw against it are the only universal rules that can apply, so it's a highly individual decision that depends on those two factors. If you already have a good idea of the opponent's deck, that also helps, of course. Essentially, experience is where it's at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ask yourself a few questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many more spells/lands do I need to draw in succession to get things going as planned?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How badly is my strategy damaged if I fail to draw more of what I need?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of land shortage (mana screw), how many of my spells can I play with the cards I currently hold?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of excess lands (mana flood), how powerful are the spells I hold? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the cards I 'can' play help me getting more spells by themselves (card drawers)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or are they strong enough to put pressure on my opponent, so I can buy a few turns to benefit from the regular card draw phase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In multi-color decks and holding the wrong mana (color screw), how many colored mana am I missing to cast the majority of my hand, or how many more spells of the wrong color could follow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the strategy of my opponent's deck? If he wins by putting out many fast creatures or direct damage, then losing a few turns may well mean defeat. If your opponent is playing a combo deck, all you may need is a single counter-spell that you can play at the right time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you often get into a situation where you must consider mulligan (assuming careful shuffling before each game), then there might be an issue with your deck. Adjust the number of mana sources and/or the mana curve of your spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shuffle thoroughly to ensure that the deck is randomised. Shuffling helps to ensure that if clumps of land or spells do occur, they do so &lt;em&gt;naturally&lt;/em&gt;. Pile shuffling alone is not an acceptable means of shuffling. Mash shuffling and riffle shuffling are acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mulligans are decided upon in APNAP order. They are acted upon in parallel. First, the active player chooses whether or not to mulligan. Then, the non-active player does the same. After both players have made a decision, mulligans are taken in parallel. This repeats until one player chooses not to mulligan. Then, the remaining player takes his or her remaining mulligans alone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some important piece of information is born from this process. When the non-active player chooses to mulligan, the active player should have already stated his or her choice. This extra information may influence the non active player's decision to mulligan. For example, a hand full of one for one spells may be acceptable to keep against a player who is taking a mulligan, because one for one trades generally favor the player with more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T19:22:05.490" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:22:05.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4513" CreationDate="2011-08-20T17:19:30.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some strategies revolve around the tier 4 buildings, and for a strategy like that, quarries are invaluable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you're going after a more &quot;captain&quot; based strategy, then the tier 4 buildings don't work to your advantage as much as some others might, so more production (from a plantation) would behoove you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, my decision to quarry or not to quarry is based on the current strategy i'm going after, and less about a set of rules i'm following.  That being said though, taking up to 2 is almost always beneficial, so you should probably keep that rule no matter what =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T17:19:30.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4511" CreationDate="2011-08-20T17:54:52.543" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst I don't play them anymore, CCG sets have many reasons to block older cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play balance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;forced upgrade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;altered rules incompatibility&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creates loopholes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maintaining opponent parity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While play balance is the big one, opponent parity and loopholes are related, it's also not one the Pokémon players complain about. Some old cards are over the top, and many not up to par; sets can't effectively be playtested against all older sets, so balance can't be maintained against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious is the economics: if you could continue to play your old cards, you have less need of new ones (unless the power creep is too high). By requiring only the last couple sets, it both forces old players to buy new cards, and enables new players to get in without having to spend huge amounts on older cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times, a new edition also alters some rule. This can make older cards special abilities not so special, or render an otherwise balanced card way out of proportion. Since Tournament play almost always uses the newest rulebook only, the older the card, the more likely to be thrown out of balance by subtle rules changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loopholes are seen by some as a balance issue... but really, they are separate. Certain cards in some games work fine, but interact with certain other cards in strange ways. There are three solutions: special case rules in the rulebook, special case rules in the FAQ, or disallow the older card. It's easier just to disallow the older of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player parity: if older sets are stronger, new players wouldn't be competitive. If the new sets are stronger, older players wouldn't be. But a Tournament is supposed to be about skill, not who can afford the best deck... so by limiting the choices, it prevents opponents from being pushovers, as the most recent few sets are likely to be closest in power levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokémon is, according to the students I've overheard, pretty well balanced even against the older cards, so I suspect most of it is parity and economics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T17:54:52.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4522" CreationDate="2011-08-20T22:09:55.960" Score="4" ViewCount="3621" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bridge, one is allowed to look at the four cards played to the last trick (if the next round hasn't started).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I similarly ask about cards played to the &lt;strong&gt;current&lt;/strong&gt; trick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was sitting at East, and the third round of a suit was led by West. Declarer followed suit from dummy immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked: &quot;Who played the master card?&quot; (It was West, and I didn't want to trump partner's trick.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dummy protested, &quot;You shouldn't have asked that question, because you just advertised your void.&quot; But partner had &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; played (as had dummy). So only declarer would &quot;benefit&quot; from my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was my question proper or not in this context? If it was improper, was it for the reason dummy said? And do I have the right to ask declarer to play in a &quot;measured&quot; (rather than &quot;immediate&quot;) fashion, so I can see the cards played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T19:57:50.547" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T19:57:50.547" Title="In Bridge, Can I Ask About Previously Played Cards to the Current Trick?" Tags="|bridge|etiquette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1682" CreationDate="2011-08-20T22:21:23.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that a player should be allowed to concede, if it doesn't affect the game, or if it affects the game in a POSITIVE way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two-player game, that's easy. Conceding shortens the game without changing the result, and is an act of good sportsmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer game, it gets trickier. That's because the conceding player may have assets that would affect the balance of power between the REST of the players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Monopoly, it could be that there is a &quot;stalemate&quot; between two players, with a third clearly behind. Then what happens to his properties if he resigns? Do they go back to the bank? Does this open up the game for BOTH remaining players, or is one more likely to benefit than the other? If BOTH remaining players agree, then the third player will do well to resign. Maybe the resigner should distribute his properties in an equitable way before resigning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it might be that one player is benefiting from the stalemate, and will likely lose if the third player leaves. Then it's essential that he remains in the game. (Maybe he can leave physically, and let some other player &quot;play&quot; his game for him.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Diplomacy, a player resigns by declaring civil disorder. But his pieces remain in place, and other players can make alliances with the individual cities to defend them against third parties. So the resignation is &quot;easy.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, a person should be allowed to &quot;resign in place&quot; as in Diplomacy. That is, his cities and cards remain with him (and out of play), but he doesn't continue playing. Other players can use a Monopoly card or the robber to deprive &quot;him&quot; (his position, actually) of some of those cards. This deprives other plays of the chance to trade with him (a minus), but also puts him in the position of NOT having to play &quot;kingmaker&quot; (a plus). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T23:20:07.323" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T23:20:07.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4513" CreationDate="2011-08-20T22:54:14.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the decision to take a third quarry or not depends mainly on what ELSE you can do with your turn. Usually, you're playing against a &quot;field,&quot; which is to say that you want to take the action that benefits you most compared to the field. That may or may not be taking the quarry, depending on what the rest of your strategy is. Basically, you should refuse to take quarry if you has something BETTER to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking one &quot;if there aren't many left and I want to deny another player the privilege of having one,&quot; is an interesting strategy called &quot;playing not to lose.&quot; I'm assuming that this &quot;other player&quot; is your main rival in the game, with the rest far behind. Then, it might be to your advantage to make a move that hurts you relative &quot;to the field&quot; if it hurts your main rival MORE. Even so, you might use some other strategy if you are also worried about a THIRD party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-20T22:54:14.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2981" CreationDate="2011-08-21T01:08:51.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer updated for Miskatonic Horror and Revised Curse of the Dark Pharaoh. Based on Pat Ludwig's answer. You will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Set                                   Investigator   Ancient One&#xA;Arkham Horror                             189             179&#xA;Curse of the Dark Pharaoh (revised)        76              90&#xA;Dunwich Horror                            152             180&#xA;The King in Yellow                         76              90&#xA;Kingsport Horror                          112             207&#xA;Black Goat of the Woods                    90              88&#xA;Innsmouth Horror                           96             176&#xA;Lurker at the Threshold                    56             110&#xA;Miskatonic Horror                         112             336&#xA;&#xA;Total                                     959            1456&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Fantasy Flight Sleeve Guide, that equates to 20 packs of Mini American Board Game Sleeves and 30 packs of Standard American Board Game Sleeves if you have everything. Fantasy Flight lists the Mini Americans at $2.49, and the Standard American at $2.99, so the total cost would be about $139.50 + tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T01:08:51.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-08-21T04:30:37.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always been of the opinion that it is impossible to kill him until he's the &quot;last one left standing&quot; because he ALWAYS moves AFTER the action takes its effect.  We played tonight and a friend played the card that shuffles the line just before his wife would collect her noble.  Naturally, she played an action card that had no effect on the line due to the upcoming shuffle and argued that her card took effect when she played it even though the Master Spy was already at the end of the line.  As luck would have it, Master Spy popped up at the front of the line as a result of the shuffle and she claimed her card had already taken effect so she collected Master Spy.  I feel vindicated to see she was wrong as ruled by Wizards of the Coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, we actually had a game where Master Spy was fourth in line at the beginning of the day, preceded by two high point cards and Unpopular Judge.  The first two players simply collected their heads without playing an action card.  I was third up, but prevented from playing an action card due to the Judge's flavor text.  My wife, who was next in turn, happily played no action card and snatched Master Spy from the front of the line since he hadn't moved!  So, it is possible to get Master Spy before the end of the day if the right set of circumstances arises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1721" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T04:30:37.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4517" CreationDate="2011-08-21T04:49:21.597" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're playing a less formal game, so I don't see a problem with asking the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more formal setting each card would remain in front of the player that played it so the question wouldn't be necessary and most likely an irregularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1722" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T04:49:21.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4513" CreationDate="2011-08-21T08:32:21.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer to this question, is how much value is the quarry going to gain you over and above the other options your have to choose from. This comes down to the stage of the game, the competing products of your competitors and the value the goods that are on offer as alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quarry saves you money when building, but only a maximum of 1 coin per build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may already have all the buildings you want/need, without triggering an end of game scenario&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may have plenty of money so an extra coin is of little value to you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not be using a building strategy to win the game, but be cautious with this one, as balance is key&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may get an extra worker for building, if you have that specific tile with that function.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good offers you the opportunity to sell / ship&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may already be too many plantations and not enough goods to go around, so this may not be a good option&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may need a factory to produce your good (with the exception of corn) and not have time to build this, so plantation has no value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may already have a factory with a spare space, so another good of a particular type may allow maximum efficiency from your factory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A good may be of high value (like coffee/tobacco) that gives you far more money than you would hope to gain from a quarry, by someone visiting the Trader.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And needless to say, all of this depends on your opponents positions, and your future potential actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T08:32:21.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4205" CreationDate="2011-08-21T10:36:29.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9220/saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saboteur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is for 2-10 players, very simple rules, the randomness is limited by the &quot;tiles&quot;, but allows for quite some AI options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T16:04:46.043" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T16:04:46.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4338" CreationDate="2011-08-21T12:05:12.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canasta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Canasta&lt;/a&gt; has a three-player variant, where the players all compete against each other instead of playing in teams of two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T12:05:12.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4512" CreationDate="2011-08-21T12:24:36.483" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the old days, mulliganing was easy.  No lands?  All lands?  Draw a new hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then along came the Paris Mulligan - now a mulligan is always an option, not just a get-out-clause for an absolutely unplayable hand.  And while you will certainly still always mulligan an all-lander or a no-lander (unless your deck is EXTREMELY unusual), there are many more borderline cases where you will have to make some tricky choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hackworth has already provided a useful list of things you should be thinking about while deciding whether to take a mulligan, and I've upvoted that, but here's a couple of things that I feel compelled to add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Everything else is a side issue to the following consideration: would an average six-card draw from my deck leave me with a better chance of winning than the seven cards I'm looking at right now?  If the answer is yes, then take a mulligan.  You may be looking at a three land, four spell hand and it may still not be a keeper, if the lands are all islands and the spells are all 7 mana with BBB in their casting cost, for instance.  A good deck can win in four or five turns against a &quot;goldfish&quot; opponent, so you usually MUST mulligan a hand where you have nothing to play for the first few turns, if you don't topdeck something.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A really, really important factor that Hackworth didn't go into: are you on the play or on the draw?  On the draw you can often keep slightly more marginal hands, simply because the chance of drawing into the crucial second or third land to make your hand &quot;work&quot; is dramatically higher when you have an extra draw step over your opponent.  By contrast, the benefit of going first is that you fly straight out of the gates and have a tempo advantage over your opponent.  This advantage is likely to be completely negated if you don't have a second land to play on turn two.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beginning players, and I remember well that I used to be like this, have the mentality of &quot;this will be a great hand... if the first card I draw is a land.  What the hell, I'll keep it!&quot;  Thinking like that probably gives you a 60% chance of losing even before you play a single card, not good odds!  Being a card down is bad news, but it's much less bad than running the risk of not being able to play your deck at all.  Think through all the probabilities, and then, if necessary, mulligan away.  I think it's fair to say that having a good sense when to mulligan is one of THE major factors that distinguishes the pro players in the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T12:24:36.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4511" CreationDate="2011-08-21T12:41:17.890" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a good collection of Pokemon TCG tournament rules and resources &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/organized-play/tournaments/rules/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - you may find some of it useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the rules for tournament formats, I see that there is a format called &quot;Modified&quot; that restricts players to using more recent sets - but there is also an &quot;Unlimited&quot; format where any cards ever printed are fair game.  So, in theory, there's no reason why you couldn't find an Unlimited tournament to play your older cards in.  Lobby your local tournament organizers to run one, if they aren't doing so already!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would people prefer to run Modified tournaments?  Well, as Aramis correctly states above, the manufacturers have a vested interest in people buying new cards in order to stay competitive.  However, it's not all for evil, economic reasons.  It would be deeply unfair to new players if, every time they turned up at a tournament, they were crushed by long-time players with vast collections of powerful, out-of-print cards.  It's not necessary for the old cards to be stronger than the new cards for there to be a problem: the players who have been collecting for a decade will have &lt;em&gt;so many more options&lt;/em&gt; to choose from that by definition they will be able to build better decks.  And if an older, out-of-print card &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; actively unbalanced, then it's very unfair to ask new players to spend big bucks getting hold of these, just to compete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare and contrast to Magic the Gathering: there is a format called &quot;Vintage&quot; which is quite popular - but to build a truly competitive Vintage deck you need cards like Black Lotus and Moxes, which cost hundreds of dollars apiece!  If all Magic tournaments were Vintage, then only players who have been playing for 20 years or have tens of thousands of dollars to spend would stand a chance of winning a game.  And nobody wants that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T12:41:17.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4517" CreationDate="2011-08-21T15:19:14.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure that in a home game, the situations you describe are similar. When you review the previous trick, you're seeing all four cards at once, with no indication as to who played what (although of course you know who won the trick because they're about to lead to the next). When you ask about a &lt;strong&gt;specific card&lt;/strong&gt; on the current trick, I think you are basically doing what dummy suggested ... although I don't think it's necessarily whether or not you're void that is being revealed (unless partner led the ace), but rather the idea that you have a winning card and aren't sure whether or not to play it. That information could be valuable for your partner on subsequent tricks as well as this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do, however, agree that you should have leeway to get more information than you would in a tournament (especially given that as I understand it, &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/laws/play.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dummy isn't allowed to call attention to irregularities during play&lt;/a&gt;). The intent of playing a card to a trick should not be to mislead or confuse opponents as to which card was just played. It may be a semantic difference, but in this situation, I think you should be able to ask declarer which card was just played from dummy. The idea may be the same (do I need to win this trick or not?), but the question is focused on what just happened rather than on its effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T15:19:14.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4532" CreationDate="2011-08-21T18:47:10.840" Score="18" ViewCount="4538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I popped round to visit some friends earlier this week and a 4-player game of Agricola sprang up, as often happens.  One of the players hadn't played before so we ran through the rules for her benefit.  While stables were being explained, I &quot;helpfully&quot; chimed in with the fact that, if you have 2 stables in a two-space pasture, each one doubles the capacity of the pasture - so you end up with a pasture capable of holding 16 of one type of animal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My host who was explaining the game was unimpressed. &quot;Actually that's not true - it would only hold 8 animals.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said I was sure I was right, and he said no, they'd looked this up in the rules specifically.  I immediately started leafing through the rulebook in search of justification for my position, and thought I'd found it.  &quot;I think you're misreading this rule that says you can only have one stable per farmyard space.  That doesn't mean you can only have on stable per &lt;em&gt;pasture&lt;/em&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;No,&quot; he retorted wearily, &quot;you can have more than one stable per pasture, but nowhere does it say that that keeps redoubling the number of animals.  All it says is that a pasture with a stable in it has double capacity.  Anyway that's the way we play it and that's the end of it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it did seem as though he had a point, the rules didn't seem nearly as explicit on this subject as I had imagined them to be.  In addition, it's actually &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; unlikely that you'd need a pasture holding 16+ of one type of animal in Agricola, so it wasn't something there was any point in having a big fight over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, on the principle of the thing: which of us was right and which wrong on this point?  Is there anywhere in the rules, or in an external authoritative ruling, that clarifies how multi-stable pastures work?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T05:47:04.877" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T05:47:04.877" Title="Does each stable in a pasture double the number of animals allowed?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4544" CreationDate="2011-08-21T19:14:43.650" Score="5" ViewCount="862" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that squeezes are most likely to occur when one defender holds all the key cards in say, two different suits. And in most cases, they are what I call &quot;secondary&quot; cards (e.g. Kx, Qxx, or Qx, after the ace or king has been played), meaning that you need to keep both the key card, and a guard. And the one defender holds both &quot;sets&quot; for a &quot;crowded&quot; or &quot;busy&quot; hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In theory, one defender could protect one suit, the other defender a second suit, with both having to protect a common suit, but those situations are rarer, and harder to defend.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, say West, holds two or three of these &quot;secondary&quot; combinations, does it make sense to lead one of them out early, so that you're not &quot;caught&quot; with more than one at the end? If the spot card is low, might it be possible to discard it at some point in play and hope declarer doesn't &quot;scoop&quot; your king with the ace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it's best to try to transfer &quot;control&quot; to your partner in one suit (leading out a K or Q, let it be captured by declarer, and hope that East controls the suit with say, JTx, while you protect the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect of a squeeze is that declarer needs to get to and from dummy. Would moves like the &quot;Merrimac coup&quot; to try to disrupt communications make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there bidding, playing, or cardholding sequences that should put a defender on particular guard against a squeeze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T15:51:23.660" Title="In Bridge, What Are Some Defenses Against Squeezes?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4530" CreationDate="2011-08-21T20:25:00.767" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each stable doubles the capacity of the pasture.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not usually a great move, there are situations where this could be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, top right on page 9: (Emphasis is mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each stable costs 2 Wood and can be placed on a fenced or empty unfenced farmyard space. &#xA;  A fenced stable doubles the holding capacity of a pasture. Each farmyard space can hold 1 &#xA;  stable. &lt;strong&gt;Each space within a pasture may have its own stable: the pasture’s capacity is then &#xA;  multiplied by 4, 8, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-08-21T20:25:00.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2011-08-22T10:09:42.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the rules of the poker club. But most clubs I've played in, have the same rule; if a player makes an aggressive move (raise, all-in) before his turn, he cannot change this move on his turn, unless an aggressive move happened before his turn. I guess this can be applied also to this situation, making the &quot;unless..&quot; part unimportant, as the big blind wants to go all-in. This doesn't affect other players' turns, as the big blind made the move before his turn, and it &quot;doesn't happen&quot; until his turn. Big blind should be still allowed to fold and take back the 150 chips, if anyone before him raised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is of course set to treat player mistakes (moves before their turn), so this cannot be done in online poker rooms, as the computer does not allow you to do anything before your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1668" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T10:09:42.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-22T10:28:24.323" Score="1" ViewCount="3233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of an established variation on Russian Roulette using dice or cards that doesn't involve shooting yourself in the head and would be somewhat child friendly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1727" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T13:49:57.390" Title="Russian Roulette Alternative?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2011-08-22T19:19:16.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4534" CreationDate="2011-08-22T10:34:59.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not &lt;em&gt;necessarily&lt;/em&gt; exactly what you're looking for, but a fun game involving waving a lot of waving around brightly-coloured foam pistols is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19237/cash-n-guns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ca$h 'n' Gun$&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the link to the image gallery (underneath the box image), you will see lots of people humorously shooting themselves in the head, Russian Roulette-style.  It's what gamers tend to do when they're playing a game with foam gun components, and there's no other honourable way out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure this would be &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt;-child friendly, but it depends on the precociousness of your children, and certainly it seems like it would be fine for ages about 10 and up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T10:34:59.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4534" CreationDate="2011-08-22T13:49:57.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy chocolate Russian roulette sets, the guns has 7 chocolate bullets filled with liquid chocolate and 1 chocolate bullets filled with hot sauce, these can be great fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treasureislandsweets.co.uk/acatalog/chocolate_russian_roulette.html&quot;&gt;http://www.treasureislandsweets.co.uk/acatalog/chocolate_russian_roulette.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;heres a link to a set :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1728" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T13:49:57.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4540" CreationDate="2011-08-22T18:20:06.190" Score="14" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;My copy of Power Grid has an strange reversal of terminology between the cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScQVS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Power Grid &amp;quot;Phase 3&amp;quot; and summary cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9MCr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Power Grid rules excerpt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this isn't a huge deal, but I just wonder which is correct in terms of the other editions of the game available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update:&lt;/em&gt; after the answer below confirmed that the cards are wrong rather than the rules, I contacted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rio Grande Games&lt;/a&gt; to ask about getting replacement cards.  They directed me to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeekstore.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek store&lt;/a&gt;, which sells a Power Grid promotional pack called &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/88491/power-grid-bgg-promo-card-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Power Grid: Theme Park (BGG Promo Card Set)&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.  This contains a replacement Step 3 card, but sadly no replacement player summary cards...  If anyone knows how to get them, that would be great to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="27374" LastEditDate="2019-12-19T17:29:32.893" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T17:29:32.893" Title="In Power Grid, what are the phases and what are the steps?" Tags="|power-grid|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4543" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:08:19.627" Score="16" ViewCount="3912" Body="&lt;p&gt;We started playing Small World in a 2-player setup and the race which we found very difficult to play was Dwarves. The con of dwarves is their low number of troops (3), which means that it is hard to exploit their special ability (doubled income from mines, even in decline) as they quickly become short in numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of interesting setups we tried was flying dwarves which made it easy to catch a few of mines, although on the small map it was also easy for the opponent to conquer the mines rendering the dwarf special power not so useful. After a few tries we ended up avoiding dwarves in 2-player games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any potentially successful dwarf strategies on the small map, or are dwarves a kind of niche play that is only reasonable in bigger games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorUserId="1723" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T09:11:57.170" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T19:41:57.757" Title="Small World: Strategies for using dwarves in a 2-player game" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4541" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:27:30.157" Score="22" ViewCount="7589" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 1: I play spirit ghouls and dispatch them somewhere on the map.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 2: I make ghouls in decline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 3: I choose the other race (X) and play them according to the rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 4: I make the race X in decline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 5: I choose another race (Y) and play them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can play ghouls actively while they are in decline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can have two races in decline thanks to spirit property&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My spirit race are ghouls making them undead, as I always kill the other race in decline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;None of my races (either X or Y) are stout&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What happens during the round 2? Can I play my ghouls actively when I'm making them in decline? As the rules say that I can do either one or the other I expect the answer would be negative.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What happens if during the round 2 one of my opponent would successfully attack the group of 4 ghouls occupying one of regions, killing one of them and making 3 others coming back to my pool of active troops? Can I dispatch them during the round 3?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most interesting one: considering my ghouls are spirit and they just won't die, can I play them actively during the round 4? The situation is a bit different than in a question 1 as the rules say that I should play my ghouls before playing the active race so technically I could play them even if during the round 4 I would be wiping them out of the map, while making the race X in decline. However, in this case I won't as because they are spirit they would prevail, which makes the case even more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorUserId="1731" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T07:39:26.207" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T07:27:26.660" Title="Playing spirit ghouls in decline" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4537" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:42:15.580" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In later revisons of Power Grid phases are used to describe the difference phases of a turn. Steps are used to describe the 3 different game states that happens when a player builds 7 cities or pull the card in OP post from the top of the power plant pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card does say &quot;Step 3&quot; in the later revisions that I played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Power_Grid_FAQ#toc46&quot;&gt;Power Grid FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1732" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T20:42:15.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4539" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:48:43.213" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;(1) You are correct - if you Decline your active race, that's &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; you do in that turn.  There's no window of opportunity for conquering at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) I believe Declined Ghouls operate as a special case: normally only one token of a Declined race stays in a region, so it's very obvious what happens when that region is conquered (the token is obliterated).  Declined Ghouls however have all the characteristics of an active race, so I'd say that, as long as you still have Ghoul-occupied territories on the map, you can redeploy them in just the same way as you would your active race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) A Spirit race never leaves the map, even when in Decline; Ghouls can still carry out conquests even while in Decline.  I don't any real contradictions going on here: as long as your Spirit Ghouls stay on the map, and it may be a very long time, they can still conquer territories and generally behave much like an active race.  Note however that you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; do some Conquering with your Spirit Ghouls and also put another race into Decline in the same turn.  It's one or the other out of Conquering or Declining on any given turn, that really is the golden rule! (unless the active race you choose to put into decline has the &quot;Stout&quot; power - In this case you could use both the Spirit Ghouls as well as your active race to attack, and after scoring still be able to put the active &quot;Stout&quot; race into decline, therefore reaping the benefits of both special powers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T07:27:26.660" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T07:27:26.660" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1304" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:50:22.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was quite a bit of work to construct, but we made a mat to play games on that was baize on one side and leatherette on the other.  It's really nice playing card and board games on the baize surface - it's easy to pick up cards and tokens, as if from a slightly squishy card table.  The leatherette underside is heavy enough to keep it in place, and easy to clean if you discover afterwards that the table wasn't as clean as you thought.  I made &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.instructables.com/id/Roll-Up-Board-Game-Card-Game-Surface/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an instructable&lt;/a&gt; showing how we made this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r4K3R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd be nice to know of places that sell something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="685" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T12:09:55.480" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T12:09:55.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4538" CreationDate="2011-08-22T20:56:42.310" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dwarves just aren't a great race, you're never going to want to pick them highly.  However, once there is a little stack of Victory coins on top of them, who knows?  If you reckon you are in a position to conquer a couple of Mine regions (perhaps, as you say, by Flying) and then hold them over a fair number of turns, defended by your Active race, then they may be cost effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general though, it's not advisable to look at Small World and say &quot;all races and powers must be balanced - if this one seems excessively weak, I must be missing something&quot;.  The races and powers are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; created equal: players must use their skill and judgment to decide how much they're willing to pay to grab a good combo, or willing to be paid to take a less-than-attractive one.  That's one of the major factors in being a great Small World player!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T22:44:31.107" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T22:44:31.107" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4531" CreationDate="2011-08-22T23:00:56.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clyde E Love made an analysis, and in most cases decided that for a squeeze to be present (from declarer's point of view), we must have a condition called &quot;BLUE&quot;. Of course there are other types of squeezes (see: Adventures in Cardplay by Ottlik and Kelsey) which might not fall under this, but most of them do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BLUE&lt;/strong&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; : All cards in victim's hand are Busy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;L&lt;/strong&gt; : Loser count is correct (Rectifying the count, typical one loser for most squeezes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt; : At least one threat is in the Upper hand (lies in the hand that plays after the victim)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; : The hand threat in the hand opposite the squeeze card has an Entry with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defense can foil declarer by trying to disrupt any combination of the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the defense depends on the hand, but to quote a few examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Defending by attacking &quot;B&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here defenders can play a threat suit repeatedly in order to nullify the threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        AKxx&#xA;        AK9&#xA;        AKx&#xA;        Txx&#xA;&#xA;x                xxx&#xA;QJT              xxxx&#xA;xxx              xxxx&#xA;KQJxxx           Ax &#xA;&#xA;        QJTxx&#xA;        xxx&#xA;        QJx&#xA;        xx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Suit order is spades, hearts, diamonds, club from top to bottom).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South is declarer in 5 spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West leads the Club K which east overtakes and plays back a club. Which west wins with the J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the only defense is for west to play a third club, making declarer play the T, which East can ruff. This removed the threat card: CT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose West returned a heart instead of a club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then declarer could win the A, draw trumps, cash the diamonds and some trumps and come to this ending:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        -&#xA;        K9&#xA;        -&#xA;        T&#xA;&#xA;-                -&#xA;QJ               xx&#xA;-                x&#xA;Q                -&#xA;&#xA;        x&#xA;        xx&#xA;        -&#xA;        -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when declarer plays the last trump from hand, West is squeezed. If he throws a club, the CT becomes good, otherwise the heart 9 becomes good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If West returns a club a trick three, he can hold onto his hearts and throw clubs, as there are no threats there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Defending by attacking &quot;L&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the defenders can hold up their trick to prevent declarer from rectifying the count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common example which is cited for this is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South is playing 6NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        KQJ&#xA;        AKJ&#xA;        AKQx&#xA;        Qxx&#xA;xxx           Axxx&#xA;xx            xxxxx&#xA;JT98          xx&#xA;JT98          xx&#xA;        xxx&#xA;        Qxx&#xA;        xxx&#xA;        AKxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say West leads a spade and East should hold up. Declarer wins and play a spade. East should hold up again. Now if declarer plays another spade, East can cash two tricks. If declarer abandons spades, no matter what he does he cannot avoid losing two tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If east takes either the first or second spade, declarer's count is rectified and West gets squeezed in the minors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) Defending against &quot;U&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both defenders can protect against a suit, they could potentially discard so that &quot;U&quot; is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below example is not exactly breaking &quot;U&quot;, but shows how correct discarding can be important in making sure the right stopper lie &lt;em&gt;over&lt;/em&gt; declarers threats, ensuring there is no victim!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;       xxx&#xA;       Axx&#xA;       Kx&#xA;       9xxxx&#xA;&#xA;xxx              x&#xA;87x              QJT9x&#xA;87xx             QJ9x&#xA;QJx              Txx&#xA;&#xA;      AKQJxx&#xA;      Kx&#xA;      ATx&#xA;      AK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing Matchpoints, South the declarer chooses to bid 7NT (grand slam in NT), instead of the cold grand slam of 7S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West leads the Diamond 8. Declarer wins the K in dummy and plays another D to hand, East playing the J, showing the Q, but denying the T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now South cashes the club AK and starts playing spades. On the second and third round of spades, East throws the HQ and the H9, showing that he has the JT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West knows that if he throws a heart on the spade, then East will come under pressure, as he will then have to protect both diamonds and hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So West holds onto the hearts (throwing 2 diamonds on the 4th and 5th spade, and the club Q on the last spade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;East throws away all those hearts, and holds onto the DQ and the CT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So West protects hearts, and East protects Diamonds and clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: there might be a better play for declarer, but this hand is there only as an example of how the right discarding can prevent squeezes on the defense).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4) Defending againt &quot;E&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is considered the most difficult squeeze defense. Trying to attack declarer's timing, sometimes by knocking out the entries required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;         AQxxxx&#xA;         x&#xA;         xxx&#xA;         xxx&#xA;&#xA;KJT9x               x&#xA;xx                  xxxx&#xA;QJx                 xxxx&#xA;QJx                 ATxx&#xA;         x&#xA;         AKQJT9&#xA;         AKT&#xA;         Kxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are East. Declarer overbids to a small slam in hearts, after partner overcalled 1S.&#xA;Partner leads the CQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play too quickly without thinking to trick one and win the A of clubs (if you duck, you might be effecting a defense against &quot;L&quot;). But all is not lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can still beat the contract, if you return a spade! right into dummy's AQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you return anything else, partner will be squeezed in spades and diamonds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer can reach this end position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;         AQx&#xA;         -&#xA;&#xA;         x&#xA;&#xA;KJT                x&#xA;-                  -&#xA;Q                  xx&#xA;-                  x&#xA;         x&#xA;         9&#xA;         T&#xA;         x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when declarers plays the H9 (and will throw a club from dummy), west is squeezed. If he throws a spade, dummy becomes good. If not, the DT becomes good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing a spade knocks out the entry to dummy and breaks up the squeeze, letting partner throw spades, and hold onto the diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T23:54:16.700" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T23:54:16.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-23T04:50:16.140" Score="7" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;My almost-5-year-old is loving Kids of Catan, and to be honest I've grown to like this game too, even with just two players. It's all about luck, but it's fast and a really good foundation for more advanced games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What rule would allow young players of this game to begin to exercise more control over their chances of winning, given that they are experienced and comfortable with the core rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had success in transitioning children from Kids of Catan to a more strategic game by adding house rules to KoC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1733" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T17:41:32.500" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T17:41:32.500" Title="How can I make Kids of Catan less luck based?" Tags="|kids-of-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4548" CreationDate="2011-08-22T08:59:04.803" Score="22" ViewCount="141755" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does regeneration work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if my creature is destroyed then I can spend X mana then tap my creature and move it out of combat. Is it attackable in any way after that? With spells or instants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone for example casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShock%5d&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bManor%20Skeleton%5d&quot;&gt;Manor Skeleton&lt;/a&gt;, can I say in response “Ok, I will spend 2 mana to regenerate it”? Or does Shock immediately resolve to destroy the creature (assuming it has no regeneration shield on it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" OwnerDisplayName="edem" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:55:58.547" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T05:54:40.787" Title="How does regeneration work in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-08-22T09:19:47.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way regeneration works is that, when a creature is regenerated, it receives protection from the next effect that would put it into the graveyard equivalent to the &quot;destroy&quot; action. So, if your creature would receive lethal damage or be targeted by a Doom Blade or something, you can activate regeneration, and when the effect occurs, the destruction part of the effect is ignored, and instead the creature is tapped, if it wasn't already. (So a creature with lethal damage has the damage removed, but the creature remains in play.) The regeneration &quot;shield&quot; only protects against the first such effect; if your creature has two toughness and there are two Lightning Bolts on the stack targeting it, you'll need to activate its regeneration ability twice to keep it from dying. Regeneration also doesn't protect against effects that exile the creature, sacrifice effects, or effects that specify that the creature is destroyed and cannot be regenerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1742" OwnerDisplayName="jsnlxndrlv" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T12:31:02.410" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T12:31:02.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-08-22T09:30:46.350" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature is destroyed when a resolved spell or effect says so (destruction by effect), or when the total damage it received this turn from anywhere is equal to or greater than its current toughness (destruction by game rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any time you can regenerate a creature with an appropriate spell or effect. The only condition is that the regeneration has to happen before the destruction effect. You can regenerate a creature as often as you like, anytime. For each time you regenerate it, the creature gets a &quot;regeneration shield&quot; that lasts until the turn ends or until it is used up by a destruction effect, whatever happens first. If a destruction event would happen and the creature has a &quot;regeneration shield&quot; active, the following things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of those shields is removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All damage received by the creature this turn is removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a destruction effect caused the event to trigger, it resolves but has no effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature gets tapped (Note that this is an effect of regeneration. The creature does not have to be untapped to regenerate it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature gets removed from combat, if it was regenerated during combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that certain spells or effects state something like &quot;Destroy target creature. It can't be regenerated.&quot;. In that case, you can still respond with a regeneration shield, but the regeneration effect is ignored and the creature still gets destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it attackable in any way after that? With spells or instants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Attack&quot; has a defined meaning in M:TG: You attack with creatures only, during a combat phase. The only valid targets for an attack are opposing players and Planeswalkers.&#xA;The correct term to use for spells and effects is &quot;target&quot;, if it is a targeted spell or effect.&#xA;And yes, regeneration provides no further protection from multiple damage sources or spells/effects. You can, as stated above, provide multiple regeneration shields, so as long as you can pay the costs, you can regenerate as often as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" OwnerDisplayName="Hackworth" LastActivityDate="2011-08-22T09:30:46.350" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-08-23T13:37:22.380" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Responding to your edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I really wanted to know is that if someone uses for example Shock&#xA;  on my creature can I say at that moment &quot;Ok, I will spend 2 mana and&#xA;  regenerate my creature&quot; or when that Shock is played it is resolved&#xA;  immediately any my creature is destroyed (assuming that it has 1&#xA;  toughness and no regeneration shield on it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the rules of Magic work is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent pays 1 red mana and casts Shock.  Shock is now placed &quot;on the stack&quot;.  Assuming that neither you nor your opponent want to play any spells or abilities in response, Shock &quot;resolves&quot;, your creature takes 2 damage, and, assuming its toughness is 2 or less, goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; want to do something, which is regenerate your creature!  With Shock on the stack, you say &quot;in response, I regenerate&quot; and pay your mana. This puts the ability on the stack, on top of Shock. Now, assuming neither you nor your opponent want to play any more spells or abilities, the objects on the stack start to resolve from top to bottom (LIFO), thus the ability resolves first and a regeneration shield is created.  Now Shock is at the top of the stack; assuming neither you nor your opponent want to play any more spells or abilities, it resolves, and your creature is dealt 2 damage, though this time it survives thanks to the replacement effect provided by its regeneration shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an interesting case for you: your opponent casts Shock on your creature.  In response, you tap two lands, and use your creature's regeneration ability.  In response to &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt;, your opponent taps for another red mana and casts &lt;strong&gt;another&lt;/strong&gt; Shock from his hand!  You may at this point be out of mana and unable to respond by using the regeneration ability again.  In this case your creature is toast, despite trying to regenerate, as the second Shock will resolve before anything else...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you visualise how the stack works - it's quite hard until you suddenly &quot;get it&quot;, and then it's pretty easy, I promise you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-08-23T14:51:19.230" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T14:51:19.230" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4552" CreationDate="2011-08-23T19:16:01.267" Score="7" ViewCount="1681" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent blocks my creature with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=106504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rhox&lt;/a&gt;, and instead of dealing damage to the attacker, would prefer to deal that damage to me. Does Rhox's ability work that way? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same ability can also be seen on cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thorn Elemental&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="66" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T17:59:32.393" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T17:59:32.393" Title="In MTG, Can Rhox redirect its damage when it blocks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4551" CreationDate="2011-08-23T19:24:22.003" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the answer is &quot;no&quot;.  The text on these cards, and others like them, is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;this creature may assign its combat damage as though it weren't&#xA;  blocked&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obvious what this means when the creature is attacking - if it weren't blocked it would deal damage directly to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When blocking, it's academic whether &quot;the creature may assign its combat damage as though it weren't blocked&quot;.  The only permissible place to assign a blocker's combat damage, ever, is to the creature it's blocking.  As such, Rhox and Thorn Elemental's special abilities have no effect while they're on defensive duty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T19:24:22.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4531" CreationDate="2011-08-23T20:56:27.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started looking at this problem from a DECLARER's point of view, and will therefore start by addressing the last part of the question, about which sequences lead to squeezes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ears prick up when I hear someone make an overcall, particularly with a suit headed by broken honors, such as KJ or AQ (because I have the others). Then the overcaller probably has several other honors for the bid, and is a squeeze candidate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other squeeze sequence is when someone plays AK of a suit WITHOUT overcalling. This person's PARTNER likely has the remaining outstanding honors, because with AKxxx and a side honor, the AK holder. (probably) would have overcalled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will have a long suit, often in dummy (which has fewer high cards, so I'm headed back toward the hand). When dummy leads out the last card, someone often has a problem. (Sometimes it's obvious, sometimes not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked the question because having benefited from squeezes as declarer, I figure I'll be on the other side as defender some day. As to how to beat squeezes, I refer you to the excellent answer above, which I have accepted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-08-23T20:56:27.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4546" CreationDate="2011-08-23T21:24:32.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I really wanted to know is that if someone uses for example Shock on my creature can I say at that moment &quot;Ok, I will spend 2 mana and regenerate my creature&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: I linked &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mtgsalvation.com/articles/15678-priority-and-the-stack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this nice article&lt;/a&gt; as a comment to your question that has a very thorough discussion, with examples, of how the Stack and Priority works in MtG. I thought I'd give the summary here. Note in this synopsis I will ignore any rules, cards or keywords that may modify these rules. (ie. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Split_second&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Split Second&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Flash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flash&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a player plays a spell or ability, that player keeps priority. The Spell/Ability is on the stack but &lt;em&gt;doesn't resolve yet&lt;/em&gt; (ie. Shock).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a player with priority passes priority with a Spell/Ability on the stack, the next player may play an &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Instant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Instant&lt;/a&gt; or activate an ability (ie. regenerate).  If they do, it goes on the &lt;strong&gt;top of the stack&lt;/strong&gt; but &lt;em&gt;doesn't resolve yet&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Spell/Ability &lt;strong&gt;on top of the stack&lt;/strong&gt; resolves when both (or all, in multiplayer games) players pass priority in a row.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a spell resolves, the active player (the player whose turn it is), gets priority. If there are still spells or abilities on the stack, go to step 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just to be crystal clear, once the Regeneration Shield resolves (replaces a destruction effect) that card &lt;em&gt;can still be targeted again&lt;/em&gt;. If your opponent has another Shock and has mana, he can cast the spell on your creature. Of course, if you still have the mana, you can regenerate it again…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="3270" LastEditDate="2018-04-18T13:23:13.107" LastActivityDate="2018-04-18T13:23:13.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4556" CreationDate="2011-08-24T01:05:36.353" Score="6" ViewCount="14217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played a brand new version of Candyland and noticed several squares that cause a player to lose a turn if they land on them. The squares are decorated with licorice to associate them with the nefarious &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/4507/675&quot;&gt;Lord Licorice, who was added as a character in the 1980s&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has Candyland always had lose-a-turn spaces, and if so, how were they decorated in the pre Lord Licorice era?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T02:13:19.497" Title="Has Candyland always had a lose-a-turn square?" Tags="|candy-land|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4555" CreationDate="2011-08-24T01:42:56.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Candy_Land#Gameplay&quot;&gt;No.&lt;/a&gt;  The version I played didn't have those; it had three spaces with &quot;sticky&quot; dots (largish, round, and black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before the 2004 version, there were three colored spaces marked with a dot. A player who lands on such a space is stuck (all cards are ignored) until a card is drawn of the same color as the square. In the 2004 version, dot spaces were replaced with licorice spaces that prompt the player landing on it to simply lose his or her next turn. If you land on a piece of gum, you go back to the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="1444" LastEditDate="2011-08-24T01:58:55.797" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T01:58:55.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3281" CreationDate="2011-08-24T21:39:33.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For having played so many Nomic, I must recommend you to play with friends around a table in a place where there are a few games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasons for that are hard to explain, but playing Nomic online implies one of the two followings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is abstract and requires every player to keep his own trace of the current situation, like two chess players that only send each other the coordinates of their moves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many players are programmers that can change the website you're playing on, to add new kinds of elements. Let's say you play with &quot;points&quot; and suddenly you decide to add &quot;coins&quot; and &quot;blue turtles&quot;, and there is an hexagonal board, ... You can't just add a comment in a blog to edit the players status and adding fields to the database.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you play around a table, you can add &quot;Carcassonne pawns&quot; and &quot;Catane cards&quot; in your game quite simply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you start with very basic rules. Forget about mutable/immutable rules, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here is an example of starting rules:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt; No rules can be added or changed if it is in contradiction with an already valid rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt; The players play their turn clockwise, each finishing his or her turn before the next player begins. The players decide who plays first in the way they prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3)&lt;/strong&gt; At a player's turn he or she can propose a new rule, a change in a rule or a removal of a rule, by writing it on a piece of paper in the exact form it is supposed to be added or changed. Such an action is called a motion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4)&lt;/strong&gt; When a motion is made, all the players vote by raising hands if they accept or reject the motion, each one having one voice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5)&lt;/strong&gt; If more than half the voices accept a motion, it is put in the ruleset, at the end with a new number if it is a new rule; at the same place with the same number if the rule is changed; and crossed out if it is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6)&lt;/strong&gt; The winner is the one who sells the princess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course, to achieve such a goal, you must either change the rule &lt;strong&gt;6)&lt;/strong&gt; or introduce a princess and a way to sell her.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-08-24T21:39:33.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4902" CreationDate="2011-08-25T21:44:42.447" Score="7" ViewCount="1007" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I see declarer draw trumps, and then start to &quot;eliminate&quot; (ruff out) one or more plain suits, my biggest fear as a defender is of a throw in. That is, the declarer will put me on lead because I'll give him back the trick he needs with say, a &quot;ruff-sluff.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I knew for sure that it was ME being thrown in, the solution might be simple; discard high cards that the declarer might try to use as a &quot;throw in&quot; to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps declarer was trying to hurt my partner with a &quot;throw in.&quot; If that's the case, maybe I should retain my high cards in a key suit so that PARTNER doesn't get &quot;thrown in&quot; in that suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what if declarer were following a simple ruffing strategy without intending an throw in? Then throwing away a key card might give him an undeserved extra trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defending such a play might not be so hard if I can detect one in the making. Are there good, or at least &quot;established&quot; ways of doing so? Or is this something one learns the hard way by trial and error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T18:18:48.857" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T09:33:49.710" Title="How do I Detect/Defend Against an throw in In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-25T22:58:51.750" Score="2" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just beat the game solo but could not do so when I had a teammate. I get the feeling beating it is easier when you are solo b/c the most genestealers that can pop out is 2. And having smaller swarms is greatly beneficial to rolling for defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has tried playing a solo mission but with more than 6 space marines. Do you think it is easier or harder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1744" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T08:03:31.933" Title="Space Hulk: Death Angel - playing a 'multi-player' game solo" Tags="|death-angel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4570" CreationDate="2011-08-25T23:26:25.590" Score="17" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are several different ranking systems for chess, but how do they work in general? How exactly do they approximate your skill and how you will fare against other players? How can I figure out my own rating? Does the jump between 2000 and 2100 require a lot more practice/improvement than the jump between 1000 and 1100?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I phrased the question to be generic to all systems, but feel free to go into the specifics of any one rating system if it helps answer the question. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T14:25:03.857" Title="How are numerical chess rankings calculated for different ranking systems?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4568" CreationDate="2011-08-25T23:34:17.637" Score="10" ViewCount="7982" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Rubber Bridge, you are trying to get more points than your opponents. In Duplicate Bridge, you are trying to get more points &lt;em&gt;than the other people playing the same hand later on do&lt;/em&gt;. For a while I thought this wouldn't make a difference, but then I've noticed bridge columns occasionally offering different suggestions depending on which is being played, and couldn't make sense of it, because in either situation you're goal is to get as many points as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When would you make a different decision based on if you were playing Rubber vs. Duplicate Bridge? How are the strategies different for them? After looking at a complete record of the decisions players made in a bridge hand, how can I tell if it was played at Duplicate or Rubber? What does it take to be good at Duplicate after you've become pretty good at Rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T15:41:33.430" Title="When will playing Rubber Bridge vs. Duplicate Bridge affect your decisions?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4566" CreationDate="2011-08-26T01:18:30.837" Score="6" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dungeon Lords, there is a spell that forces you to pay your monster(s) cost or withdraw it from combat. If you have a vampire and are just below the evil-o-meter level needed for the paladin to show up, but no one had breached the level yet, will he show up mid combat if you pay the cost to keep your vampire from withdrawing? What about if someone else had already summoned the paladin, and you became more evil than them, would doing this bring him to your dungeon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T15:25:52.890" Title="Can the Paladin be summoned mid battle?" Tags="|dungeon-lords|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4560" CreationDate="2011-08-26T07:28:19.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it harder with more players. Mostly because people tend to coordinate less... and so suboptimal decisions are more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also is the issue of more genestealers per event card, but more troops means more shots made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worst blowouts I've seen have been 6p games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've run the game with a 3p setup for 2p, with one of the two controlling two groups, and it works fine that way. (P3 dropped out after turn 1.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T07:28:19.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4563" CreationDate="2011-08-26T10:02:46.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this paragraph on p19 of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Order is important. During battle, your rating on the Evilometer can&#xA;  change. This might make the paladin choose a different dungeon (as&#xA;  explained in the Paladin section above). The paladin will move&#xA;  immediately (along with any Damage Counters that are on him) so it&#xA;  is possible that the paladin will fight in multiple dungeons in the&#xA;  same round. Once the paladin is eliminated, however, he will move no&#xA;  more, regardless of the Evilometer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Paladin's justice is swift - if you become the most evil player at&#xA;any point, he will swoop down to punish you at once!  I believe I read&#xA;the game designer saying somewhere that you know you've gotten really good&#xA;at the game of Dungeon Lords when you are deliberately manipulating the &#xA;Paladin's movements - e.g. sending him to trash another player's Dungeon,&#xA;but then having him come back to yours with a few damage counters on him,&#xA;so he's easier to defeat.  I think it's very hard to pull off stuff like that,&#xA;though!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Regarding whether the Paladin can enter play when  a player crosses&#xA;the &quot;evil threshold&quot; for the first time in the year during a battle, I see&#xA;no reason why not.  Here's the rules from the Paladin section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your Evil Counter lands on or rises above the paladin space on the&#xA;  Evilometer, the paladin sets out to attack your dungeon. Take the&#xA;  Paladin Tile from the Central Board and put it in the large space near&#xA;  the entrance to the dungeon. The paladin will always be at the front&#xA;  of the party. Any new warrior will push ahead of everyone but the&#xA;  paladin. The paladin himself is a mighty warrior. And a priest. And a&#xA;  wizard. And even a bit of a thief. For the purposes of the rules, he&#xA;  does not count as any of these, but anyone who faces the paladin will&#xA;  realize that he is an adventuring party all by himself. If you cross&#xA;  the line, you attract the paladin immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's true that these rules normally entail the Paladin joining the&#xA;adventuring party while they're still outside the dungeon, preparing for&#xA;their attack.  But crucially, there's no contradiction between the above rules and the Paladin joining mid-battle.  During battle the adventurer &lt;em&gt;tiles&lt;/em&gt; are still in the spaces near the entrance, and it's easy for the Paladin to join them.  Just because in some sense the party have left the entrance and are now several tiles deep into the dungeon, doesn't mean that it's hard for the Paladin to find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, attracting the attention of the Paladin happens instantly at any point that a player becomes evil (or more evil) enough.  The rules are quite clear what happens whenever this occurs, and there's no reason to suppose there should be any exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-08-26T15:25:52.890" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T15:25:52.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4562" CreationDate="2011-08-26T10:20:14.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty large topic and you could easily write an essay, or indeed a book, on the subject!  As a starting point I would recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duplicate_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duplicate Bridge wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;, with particular reference to the &quot;Scoring and tactics&quot; session. Take especial note of the differences that arise if you're playing Matchpoint or IMP scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, Duplicate and Rubber bridge are the same game - it's just that different results are weighted differently for scoring purposes.  In rubber bridge, you can get away with bidding quite conservatively - slow and steady can usually win the race.  In duplicate, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; squeeze every last ounce of potential out of your cards, making it a more rigorous, competitive, high-stakes form of the game.  And some would say more fun, if your heart can take the strain!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T10:20:14.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4562" CreationDate="2011-08-26T14:23:47.530" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wholly agree with thesun's answer, particularly &quot;you must squeeze every ounce of potential out of your cards&quot;.  But since you've posed particular queries at the end of your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part-scores are the most obvious difference.  If you have strong Hearts, but not strong enough for slam, a Rubber player looks at the scoresheet; with 60 points below the line, there is no point going above 2H unless forced (overtricks score the same as bid tricks, and there is no risk of failure).  A Duplicate player knows there is no line: bid to 4H if you can make it.  Similarly with honours: a marginal hand with KQJT, worth bidding at Rubber because of the cushion 100 honours will give, is not worth bidding at Duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategy: again, Rubber bridge is about making the best of your situation, while Duplicate is about making the best of your cards, Take sacrifices: a Duplicate player knows that if he goes one down doubled but stops opponents making a game, he has done well out of that hand.  At Rubber bridge, you have saved the rubber for now, but if the opponents win a few hands later, all your sacrifice achieved was to cost you a few hundred points.  More generally, if by strategy you mean scoring as many points as possible (as I think you should), any change in the scoring method will affect your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, you can't tell under which system a particular hand was played; obviously, if one side started with 30 below the line it was at Rubber, and if two declarers took different routes it was Duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you are really a good Rubber bridge player, you will be (or are) a good Duplicate player.  'Good', of course, is compared to 20 or 30 others, rather than 3, and you may find that your system is too ill-defined to be acceptable without work: but it's the same game, and just as enjoyable if not more so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2011-08-26T14:23:47.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4602" CreationDate="2011-08-26T17:15:00.960" Score="10" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;We like to play &lt;strong&gt;Titan&lt;/strong&gt; but the game always feels too long, it usually takes 6-8 hours.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried the quicker game variant suggested in the rules (skipping the first level of recruits and going straight to the second tier), but found it unsatisfying because of the lack of variety.  Most of our time seems to be spent in board management, not combats.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have other people tried and found successful in reducing the total play time to under four hours for Titan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T19:40:12.317" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T19:40:12.317" Title="How can we finish Titan in 4 hours?" Tags="|house-rules|play-time|titan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4561" CreationDate="2011-08-26T17:44:05.910" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the idea is to give an approximation of relative strength among players, based on their history in rated competition in that type of chess (normal, blitz, correspondence). The greater the difference, the higher the probability that the higher-rated player will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ratings are modified based on the difference in rating between the players and the expected result. Ratings generally go up for a win and down for a loss; the rating change is bigger if the difference in ratings as bigger. There is typically a damping factor that reduces or removes the penalty for losing to a much higher-rated player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are typically different rules for players with established ratings and players who haven't yet played enough games to establish a rating. Provisional ratings fluctuate more and have less predictive value for future results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, yes, once you have established a rating, it is harder to increase your rating by 100 points from 2000 than it is to increase it by 100 points from 100. That does depend on your skill level: if you have a knack for chess, you may never have a rating in the low 1000s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are summaries for most of the major ratings I have been able to identify; apologies to those who use a different rating system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_rating_system#Elo_rating_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elo system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for calculating your Elo rating is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;new rating = old rating + K×(W-We), where K=10, W=actual score, and We=expected score&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournament play, the difference in ratings between you and each of your opponents is calculated first. From this, an expected score against each opponent is derived from a table. The sum of those expected scores is compared to your actual score, and thus your new score is calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_rating_system#English_Chess_Federation_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ECF system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of 2009, a player's grade is calculated by taking the opponent's grade and adding 50 points for a win, subtracting 50 points for a loss, and taking the opponent's grade as it stands for a draw. For grading purposes it is assumed that the opponent's grade is never more than 40 points above or below one's own. An ECF grade can be approximated to an Elo rating by multiplying by 8 and adding 600*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a further explanation, per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://grading.bcfservices.org.uk/help.php#notes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ECF website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interval between the end of a grading period and publication of the new grades, the &amp;quot;current&amp;quot; grade for calculation purposes is the new, as yet unpublished, grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Grade is calculated by dividing the total number of points scored by the number of games played. If there are at least 30 games in the current period, then the Grade is based on these games alone. If there are not, results are brought forward from the previous periods as required (see 'Category' above). In no case does calculation go back more than 36 months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Results are brought forward in two different ways, depending whether the Grade is Rapid or Standard. With Rapidplay, any games brought forward from a previous period will be the most recent games in that period. This is possible because the dates of Rapid games are (almost) always known. With Standardplay, unfortunately, this is not the case. So, instead, the required number of (notional) games is brought forward at the average score for the period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ungraded players, a grade is estimated this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Rapid Grade, where available, will be used in default of a Standard Grade; and vice versa. If the player has no Grade at all, a starting grade is calculated as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stage 1 is to calculate a 'grade' for each ungraded player on his games against graded opponents. The 40-point rule is not used. If all his opponents are graded, it stops there and the result will be used as his starting grade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stage 2 brings in games between the ungraded players. Once again the 40-point rule is not used. The players are 'graded' on all their games, using as starting grades the figures obtained from Stage 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resulting 'grades' will not be very accurate. So they are fed in again as new starting grades, and Stage 2 is repeated. This continues, with increasing accuracy each time, until the figures (more or less) stop changing. The starting grades can then be considered accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These starting grades are then used in the grading proper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glicko_rating_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glicko system&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Glicko system is an improvement on the Elo system, introducing a concept called Ratings Deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rating system itself is beyond the ability of this site to display; without the add-in that Math.SE has, the formulas would be nearly impossible to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RD measures the accuracy of a player's rating. For example, a player with a rating of 1500 and an RD of 50 has a real strength between 1400 and 1600 with 95% confidence. Twice the RD is added and subtracted from their rating to calculate this range. After a game, the amount the rating changes depends on the RD: the change is smaller when the player's RD is low (since their rating is already considered accurate), and also when their opponent's RD is high (since the opponent's true rating is not well known, so little information is being gained). The RD itself decreases after playing a game, but it will increase slowly over time of inactivity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://main.uschess.org/content/view/7520/393/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;USCF Correspondence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The USCF used a linear approximation of the Elo method for calculating correspondence chess methods ... this is how it works now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Established players&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate a new rating after a game, use the following formula:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rn = Ro + .04(ED) +/- 16&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that a new rating (Rn) is determined by taking the old rating (Ro), adding or subtracting 4 percent of the difference in ratings between opponents (.04(ED)), and adding or subtracting 16 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rating differences that exceed 350 points are figured as 350 points.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For players rated 2100-2399, the formula Rn = Ro + .03(ED) +/- 12 is used.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;For players rated 2400 and above, the formula Rn = Ro + .02(ED) +/- 8 is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Provisional players&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During your first 25 games as a correspondence chess player, your rating is calculated as the average of your game results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each game result is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;400 points plus the opponent's rating for a win, unless the opponent's rating is more than 400 points less than yours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent's rating minus 400 points for a loss, unless the opponent's rating is more than 400 points greater than yours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent's rating for a draw, regardless of the difference in rating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your current rating in all other cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your first result, because you do not yet have a rating, the 400-point differences do not apply: you get the opponent's rating for a draw, +400 for a win, -400 for a loss. If your opponent also doesn't have a rating, then it's 1700 for the winner and 1300 for the loser, or 1500 for both if you draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a provision for forfeits under certain circumstances, like the death of an opponent. (Yes, this is a drawback to correspondence chess ... sometimes you suddenly don't have an opponent any more.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT : The ELO system is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; that simple : here is the FIDE handbook that regulates the rating system : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/component/handbook/?id=172&amp;amp;view=article&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.fide.com/component/handbook/?id=172&amp;amp;view=article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who don't want to read it, here goes (for already rated players) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each game played against a rated player, calculate the rating difference D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A difference in rating of more than 400 points shall be counted for rating purposes as though it were a difference of 400 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a table to find the player's score probability PD&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dR = score - PD (score is 0, 0.5, 1 for each game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rating change is : the sum of each dR multiplied by K&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;K is the development coefficient, defined as follows :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K = 40 for a player new to the rating list until he has completed events with at least 30 games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K = 20 as long as a player's rating remains under 2400.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K = 10 once a player's published rating has reached 2400 and remains at that level subsequently, even if the rating drops below 2400.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K = 40 for all players until their 18th birthday, as long as their rating remains under 2300.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The Rating Change is rounded to the nearest whole number. 0.5 is rounded up ( whether the change is positive or negative).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it is useful for everyone that wondered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T14:25:03.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4572" CreationDate="2011-08-26T19:28:21.887" Score="6" ViewCount="7213" Body="&lt;p&gt;In poker terminology, there's something called &quot;checking behind&quot;. What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1668" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:04:16.790" Title="What does it mean to check behind?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4571" CreationDate="2011-08-27T02:51:28.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's when you 'check' (choose not to bet anything) after all players before you have checked.  Often with a good hand you'll want to do this to give your opponent(s) an opportunity to improve and be willing to bet.  With a weak hand you might want to do this if you suspect your opponent is slow-playing a good hand for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-08-28T15:54:16.513" LastActivityDate="2011-08-28T15:54:16.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4574" CreationDate="2011-08-27T06:11:02.513" Score="17" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Dominion, I have developed the habit of buying a Gold the first time I can afford one, even if I could afford a Province instead. Is this a good rule of thumb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning is that if I manage to hit 8+ coins without a Gold in my deck, I have probably managed to hit a lucky hand. Having at least one Gold makes it much easier to hit 6+ or 8+ coins in the future, whereas having a Province sitting around just makes it harder to buy that first Gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If buying the Gold is indeed better most of the time, under what circumstances would it be worse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="1723" LastEditDate="2011-08-28T00:25:49.197" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:23:44.443" Title="If I have 8+ coins and no Gold, should I buy a Gold or a Province?" Tags="|dominion|tactics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4573" CreationDate="2011-08-27T14:37:11.880" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally you want to get a Gold before you buy a Province in order to sustain your Province buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exceptions include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Situations in which you are using action chains for money (e.g., Minion, possibly Conspirator) because the Gold does not contribute to your chain in a significant manner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your Treasure Maps hit. If you have 4 Golds from TM, you should have the coin density you need for the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a trash-for-benefit card on the board that you can exploit (e.g., Salvager, Expand especially if there are Colonies in play, possibly Apprentice). This will be situational; you need to make sure that you're going to be able to stay ahead of your opponent if you trash the Province.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the game is ending quickly (e.g., your opponent is rushing Gardens or Duke/Duchy and the game is going to end on piles before you work all the way through your next shuffle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have cards that let you discard for &lt;em&gt;substantial&lt;/em&gt; benefit (e.g., Horse Traders is probably enough; Cellar is definitely not), you might be able to avoid some of the penalty for greening your deck early. But, this is a higher variance strategy—sometimes shuffle luck will make you successful, and sometimes the shuffle gods will not be amused.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T14:37:11.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4573" CreationDate="2011-08-27T18:10:22.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a reason to buy gold when I can buy a province instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of two reasons:&lt;br&gt;1. too much copper in deck to do it again.&lt;br&gt;2. have multiple buys and sufficient to buy 2 gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, really I don't think your &quot;Buy gold the first time I hit 8+&quot; is of much value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Me, I buy gold when I hit 6 or 7, and province at 8+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-08-27T18:10:22.300" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4573" CreationDate="2011-08-29T16:54:03.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it will depend how late in the game you are and how soon the game will end.  If your playing a game where the end of the game looks like it's coming soon, buying the province is the best option.  If it's early in the game, buy the gold.  You'll be able to use it throughout the game for acquiring more gold and provinces later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T16:54:03.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4582" CreationDate="2011-08-29T17:57:07.853" Score="10" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I finished my first ever game of Dominion: Intrigue, and I'm feeling conflicted about my evaluation of some of the cards on the board. In particular, I cannot decide of the Baron is junk or should be highly valued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: it gives you something to do with the Estates in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons: it requires you to actually have an Estate in your hand, and will actually stuff you with more Estates if you have to use the &quot;gain an Estate&quot; ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On balance, I'm inclined to view the card as junk, but OTOH I could envision a Baron-heavy strategy that involves taking tons of Estates, and discarding them all for cash whenever they show up in your hand. But could such a strategy actually work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I didn't attempt to use the Baron strategy in last night's game. Instead, I stockpiled the Great Hall and won by 4 points over my nearest competitor.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2011-08-29T18:14:45.060" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:07:57.770" Title="Using the Baron" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4573" CreationDate="2011-08-29T22:14:41.607" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/win_weighted_accum_turn.html?cards=Gold,Province&quot;&gt;graph of winningness&lt;/a&gt; by turn for Province and Gold buys is interesting and relevant.  On average, before turn 6, buying Golds is better than buying Provinces.  Note that the graph is going to overstate the case for buying Provinces (conditioned buying a Province, we know your deck can generate $8, which is not true for all players buying Golds, so on a whole, just because you can buy a province, you are in better shape).  And it's direct evidence that you should take Gold before Provinces before your second shuffle, which tends to happen on turn 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T22:14:41.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4578" CreationDate="2011-08-29T22:54:26.617" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baron will rarely be a strategy unto itself, but it's a decent accelerator for your early game. The strength is that it gives a lot of money early in the game (assuming you don't have an awful shuffle), but it does take up space later in the game. It's late-game use is primarily the +Buy, with the ability to also gain an Estate at the last minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want to buy Estates in order to fuel your Baron unless you're in a weird situation (three-pile race is on, you can consistently draw your deck and have an extra action to spend on discarding the Estate for money, etc.)—that will slow your deck down overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of $4 openings, I would rate it below Moneylender and Militia but above Bureaucrat and Remodel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T22:54:26.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4578" CreationDate="2011-08-29T23:12:41.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm by no means a Dominion expert (as I don't have any set other than Intrigue and the Base set and I mostly play Dominion 2-player) but I had a recent game with the Baron and found it very helpful in the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As an early game accelerator - I bought a Province in one of my first turns as a result of getting Baron, Estate, Copper, Copper, Silver with my third hand. Clearly that was a lucky shuffle but I used the Baron profitably plenty of other times in that game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the extra Buy later in the game which also proved decisive. We were playing with Gardens in this particular game so the extra Estates + the extra buy was pretty valuable in that specific case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game where I was employing a trashing strategy then yes, the Baron might be less useful - but with the Gardens it was an exceptionally valuable early game purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastActivityDate="2011-08-29T23:12:41.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4578" CreationDate="2011-08-30T02:08:10.340" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baron is good because it gives a lot of $$$ very early in the game&lt;/strong&gt;. Few cards will give you a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; chance of getting a gold on the second run-through of your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you open with Baron and Silver. You have an 83% chance of drawing the Baron on turn 3 or 4, and in this case you can get a gold into your deck for your first reshuffle unless you get no estates with it. This means you have a better than 64% chance of getting gold on turn 3 or 4 and into your deck for your first reshuffle, and the alternative 4-5 split for those turns from the silver isn't bad either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting that many high-cost cards into your deck that quickly is a MASSIVE advantage that few cards can provide. Once you get that first gold, you can start pounding on the high cost cards that will take take on the road to provinces and victory. AND you still can use the Baron later whenever you happen to draw an estate with it to get more cash, towards the end of the game to get more VPs from the gained estates. Top that off with an extra buy every time you use it and you've got a pretty great card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baron isn't a strategy in itself, but it does a darn good job of speeding up whatever other strategy you might be using. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T14:27:50.367" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T14:27:50.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4584" CreationDate="2011-08-30T02:12:46.770" Score="6" ViewCount="3850" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having recently moved quite a long distance away from a friend who owns Arkham Horror, we have decided to continue playing games via telepresence (supplied by google+ hangouts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first go at playing remotely had me opening pages in tabs on the Arkham Horror wiki and tracking everything manually in a text editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do there exist any software or web tools to reduce lookup times and unify all character bookkeeping into a single interface? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-08-30T05:21:43.313" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T22:04:46.273" Title="How can I play Arkham Horror remotely?" Tags="|arkham-horror|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-08-30T02:46:38.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short Answer: No?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer Answer: Not that I've used at least. The only Arkham-management-eqsue software I've used is the Arkham toolkit for iOS, but that only helps manage the location/OW decks and isn't really for distance play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is a program/system called VASSAL that people can make modules for that allow network play of various games. I've never used VASSAL myself, but I know that it can be used to play rather complicated competitive games online, and a quick search reveals that there is a VASSAL module for Arkham plus every expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Module%3aArkham_Horror&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that got updated a few weeks ago. I see a note on the page that all of the common item cards are blank to make sure people own a copy, so I don't know what other modifications if any the modules would need after downloading to get it into a completely easily playable state. That may be your best chance at a good online method of playing Arkham. If you give it a shot, reply with your experiences in some fashion; it would be useful info to have here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T02:46:38.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4598" CreationDate="2011-08-30T14:35:33.067" Score="13" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first, Craftsman seems like a great pick because it's what actually lets you actually produce goods, and if you're the one to pick it you can often produce more than everyone else. However, producing goods isn't the goal of the game, and what matters is what you can do with them. If you pick craftsman, you are nearly guaranteed to be the last player to USE your goods, even if you have more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when would picking craftsman actually be the best choice if you're just letting your left hand opponent ship/trade his goods first? Obviously if there's a nice stack of money on it you'd probably want to grab it, and if you have the right combination of goods that you are still guaranteed to trade or ship what you want to then it'd probably be fine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is it okay to pick Craftsman? How can I explain to beginners when they should and shouldn't do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T02:04:23.933" Title="When is it a good idea to pick the Craftsman in Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-08-30T14:53:15.083" Score="14" ViewCount="45623" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a MTG noob, and currently I've only built single-color decks. However, I want to explore the art of building decks that use cards of multiple colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages of a multicolor deck? Why do people decide to build them? What goes into the process of deciding which colors and cards to combine? Do people decide to build a red-green deck and then find the best cards to use, or do they decide on the kind of cards they want and later figure that red-green would probably give the best results?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do multicolor decks usually have an equal amount of lands and spells of each color? Or can you have one primary color and one secondary color? Which is more efficient/better and why?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can I choose what spells of each color to add so I get color-screwed as little as possible? If all my creatures are of one color, and I don't get any land of that color, I'm in trouble. Likewise, if I have a lot of spells that require multiple mana of one color, they will be harder to cast in a multi-color deck than in a single color one. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What cards become more/less valuable in a multicolor vs. single color deck? Obviously cards that can generate mana of different colors become more valuable and cards that require lots of mana of one color become less valuable for starters. How can I take maximum advantage of cards that are better in multicolor decks and avoid those that are weaker?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2018-06-10T05:33:31.350" Title="Learning to build multi-color decks in Magic" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4589" CreationDate="2011-08-30T15:00:03.103" Score="6" ViewCount="2565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion is definitely NOT a game of luck. I'd wager it's at least 90% strategy. But at the higher levels I'm sure the luck comes out as players get better at finding the best strategies available to them. In Bridge tournaments, pairs have to play the same hand and see who does better at it. Obviously in Dominion tournaments you'd have everyone play the same kingdom sets, but how do you compensate for bad shuffles? If there's a Mountebank/Witch/Treasury or any other awesome opening cost-5 card and no good opening cost-4 cards, any player who starts 5-2 is going to have a substantially better odds of winning already. Likewise if you have a lot of villages and terminal actions, but virtually never get them together, you're also at a substantial disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do Dominion tournaments compensate for this? Is it possible to play Dominion in a form where it's 98+% strategy and &amp;lt;2% luck, or is luck of the draw just an essential part of the game? How often does luck determine the winner of a game of Dominion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:05:05.670" Title="How do Dominion tournaments compensate for the luck that's always present in the game?" Tags="|dominion|tournament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4586" CreationDate="2011-08-30T15:25:00.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(1) Each of the five Magic colours has its own strengths and weaknesses. (Historically, blue had fewer weaknesses and more strengths than any of the rest, which led to some wags dubbing Island &quot;the most broken card in Magic&quot;, but things are much more balanced these days.)  A mono-coloured deck is liable to be very good at doing one, narrow thing, but only at the exclusion of versatility.  Quite often, mono decks roll over and die to &quot;colour hoser&quot; cards, or just simple strategies they can't deal with.  If you're a red burn deck, you may simply not be able to deal with copious amounts of lifegain, and you have absolutely no way of dealing with any enchantment once it hits the table.  Adding in another colour helps you shore up your weaknesses, at the expense of some of the single-minded purposefulness and drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) This completely depends on the objectives of your deck, but: a two-colour deck with a 50/50 split probably leaves you with an acceptable chance of drawing both the colours you need.  A four colour deck with an even split of spells of all its colours sounds like an unholy mess of mana issues.  In practice, a lot of multicolour decks are heavy green, due to green having far the best mana fixers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) See above: I'd start with a heavy green deck with Birds of Paradise, Rampant Growths, cards like that that enable you to grab whatever other colours are needed by the cards that you draw.  Failing that, you're going to have to get good at assembling complex mana bases with dual lands, fetch lands, colour-fixing artifacts and so forther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Dual lands are probably the holy grail of multicolour Magic: unfortunately the ones with the least significant drawbacks are often rare, and often quite expensive to obtain.  (See also, the rare and very sought-after Birds of Paradise.)  It's all about the manabases really and I wouldn't worry about anything else to start with.  You're right though that cards with more than a couple of coloured mana in their casting costs are probably a pretty bad idea to coexist in a multicoloured deck, though I've seen some incredibly greedy pro decks enabled by the Lorwyn &quot;Vivid&quot; lands plus Reflecting Pools, so anything is possible in the right environment...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T15:25:00.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4587" CreationDate="2011-08-30T15:32:34.580" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think Dominion is alone in being a game with a significant amount of luck.  Magic the Gathering has a massive amount of variance, but the pros rise to the top time and again, because they are experts at keeping the role that luck plays in their game down to the very minimum.  Even with that being the case, I'd say that if you win 75% of your Magic matches at a pro level, your skill level is pretty godlike.  If you can consistently win even 60% of the time, you're doing more than fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I don't think that it's a sensible question &quot;how can we keep luck in Dominion to being a &amp;lt;2% factor&quot;.  There's always going to be games of Dominion where you repeatedly draw exactly what you don't need and your opponent draws exactly what he does.  But if you don't let those games faze you, and just concentrate on outplaying your opponents, your win percentage should creep up comfortably above 50% as you become an expert at the finer point of the game.  And that's all it takes to be a great Dominion player.  Not 100% win rates against &quot;lesser opponents&quot; and the total elimination of luck, just the ability to maximise your game, whatever the game throws at you, and even though sometimes it won't be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T15:32:34.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4585" CreationDate="2011-08-30T15:38:28.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a couple of good links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_2322068_use-craftsman-role-puerto-rico.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/how_2322068_use-craftsman-role-puerto-rico.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/od/puertorico/a/Craftsman-Strategy-Guide.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgames.about.com/od/puertorico/a/Craftsman-Strategy-Guide.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit of an essay question that you've set here, but hopefully the above will provide a useful starting point both for your enlightenment, and to act as a springboard for the answers of others!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T15:38:28.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4586" CreationDate="2011-08-30T19:07:51.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;h3&gt;1.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, multicolour decks are built because there is some synergy between the strategies and strengths of the two colours which makes them stronger together than separately as mono-color decks. For example, red/green decks are popular because the removal of red helps the large efficient creatures of green hit the opponent. Blue/green decks use the mana acceleration of green to fuel the card advantage of blue. A white/red deck swarms the opponent with small creatures more reliably as white gains some removal and red gains some resilience. Blue/black is always popular for &amp;quot;control&amp;quot; decks, as black has the creature and card removal, and blue has the spell counters and card drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit to broad a question to ask how to choose what colours to build a deck around. When building decks for a standard or limited tournament, it depends greatly on the current &amp;quot;metagame&amp;quot; — what decks are doing well in tournaments and how to counteract them or exploit them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See above. It really depends on the metagame. In general, a two-colour deck will have their colours fairly equally split. Sometimes a third colour will be splashed in. Some blocks even &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.tcgplayer.com/showthread.php?37967-The-Domain-Deck-Thread&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;encouraged four or five colour decks&lt;/a&gt;, as they had powerful cards that kicked in when you had more mana available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;3.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-colour decks, even more than one-colour decks, rely on using mulligans wisely. Generally you will avoid using many cards that require two of the same colour mana. If you do, they will probably be the big &amp;quot;finishers&amp;quot; in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many multi-colour or mana-fixing lands and spells are available in most environments. Really, building a competative two-colour deck is not an issue. Be careful not to overload too much on mana-fixing spells and artifacts. These cards help you get the mana you need, but they won't win the game by themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;4.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the answers to #1 apply here. You want to look for cards which enhance the strategies of each other, and not even concern yourself so much with colour until you build your mana base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's best to learn by taking apart and tinkering with other successful decks to see how they're made. A good resource for this is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/archive.aspx?tag=topdecks&amp;amp;description=swimming%20with%20sharks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Top Decks&lt;/a&gt; weekly column at Wizards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T19:07:51.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4587" CreationDate="2011-08-30T19:14:31.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The WBC compensates for first player advantage by playing 2 game rounds, and reversing turn order by round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really do anything about luck though.  I think the only reasonable way to mitigate luck is to play a lot of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-08-30T19:14:31.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4585" CreationDate="2011-08-30T23:07:28.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Craftsman is one of the less favorite choices in Puerto Rico, because while you can do yourself quite a bit of good, it often doesn't put you ahead on the CURVE versus your opponents (who share most of your privileges), especially if you are the LAST player to use your goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settler, builder, or mayor are usually preferred early picks. Craftsman is toward the bottom with captain. (I won't go into other roles such as trader or prospector for now.) The advantage of captaining is that he helps determine what gets shipped; the disadvantage is that he is less &quot;productive,&quot; than a craftsman or many other roles. So the &quot;first-pass&quot; choice is between the productive craftsman, and the strategically placed captain. In many game situations, you might prefer to &quot;captain.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you choose craftsman if it gives you UNUSUAL productivity, and/or your opponents don't benefit from your choice as much as usual. This can happen if you alone own buildings that increase your productivity. IF you can produce LOTS of goods AND sell them at favorable prices (relative to a &quot;normal&quot; game), then you choose craftsman for this reason. Also, choose craftsman if the doubloon bonus is unusually large. Unfortunately, it takes experience to understand when you have an unusual advantage in this regard compared to a &quot;normal&quot; game situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In advising beginners, I'd say, don't choose craftsman unless you have no other choice, or else... and then define what that &quot;or else&quot; is, in terms of extra productivity or profitability compared to normal (e.g., unless there is a THREE doubloon bonus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-08-31T13:59:43.557" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T13:59:43.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4586" CreationDate="2011-08-31T03:20:03.783" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers have explained pretty well what the advantages of a multicolor deck are, but I think I can add something on this point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What goes into the process of deciding which colors and cards to combine? Do people decide to build a red-green deck and then find the best cards to use, or do they decide on the kind of cards they want and later figure that red-green would probably give the best results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on what level you play at. A beginner might very well decide to make a deck of a specific color combination, and then perhaps be guided toward a particular strategy by that choice of colors - for example, choosing to play red-green kind of pushes you toward playing a deck with strong creatures and burn spells, or blue-white would push you toward a control deck with counterspells, white removal, and a few flying creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at higher levels, people don't think that much about colors when building a deck, at least not right at the beginning - for one thing, even once you choose a color or colors, there are still many thousands of cards to pick from in those colors. Pro deck designers usually build around a specific card, or more often, a specific combination of two or three cards, which typically sets the color scheme for the deck. For example, the Exarch-Twin deck that's currently popular relies on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214365&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deceiver Exarch&lt;/a&gt; (blue) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193474&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt; (red), which requires that the deck is going to be blue-red. Or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190400&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Valakut&lt;/a&gt; decks need &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241832&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Primeval Titan&lt;/a&gt;, so they pretty much have to be green-red (unless you have access to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=151989&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prismatic Omen&lt;/a&gt;, but that's a different story). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194391&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tempered Steel&lt;/a&gt; deck from Scars of Mirrodin Block Constructed is an example of a deck whose color (white) was set by a single card - of course, that was only possible because the cards that Tempered Steel works well with happen to be colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some other cases (actually this is pretty common), you might start out with one or two cards and begin building a deck around those cards' color(s), but then you discover that the deck doesn't work very well without a certain kind of effect that you can only get in a different color. A good example of this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197891&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pyromancer Ascension&lt;/a&gt;. You could, in principle, build a mono-red deck around that card, but in order to get the enchantment active, you typically need to find and cast two copies of two different cards - for example, two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234704&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;s &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245184&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;s. That's not likely to happen before your opponent kills you, &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you have a way to filter through your deck looking for multiple copies of spells - and that's where blue spells like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205019&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Preordain&lt;/a&gt; come in. This is why Ascension decks are blue-red, and in fact why a lot of different decks (like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227504&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Puresteel Paladin&lt;/a&gt;/equipment combo deck) like to add blue, even when you might not think it's necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T03:20:03.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4597" CreationDate="2011-08-31T05:43:29.710" Score="8" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;My playgroup has started to get into creating custom cards for our casual &lt;strong&gt;Magic: the Gathering&lt;/strong&gt; games, but it's no fun if the cards aren't designed in a plausible way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/78&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater's second Nuts &amp;amp; Bolts of Design article&lt;/a&gt;, certain abilities (like flying or haste) are permitted to appear in certain colors at any rarity (or might only appear at a certain rarity). Creature size is predicated by color and rarity as well, and I can only assume that spell effects are subject to similar restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has WotC ever published a complete list of color-pie appropriate effects and abilities, or has anyone ever tried to compile one from observable trends in card design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1742" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T08:05:20.143" Title="Does anybody know of a list of color-appropriate effects for new cards in Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4596" CreationDate="2011-08-31T08:05:20.143" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first instinct was that Mark Rosewater, the head of Magic R&amp;amp;D and the writer of the weekly column &quot;Making Magic&quot; on the official site, must have written a definitive account of the Magic colour pie.  And with ~50 columns a year under his belt for the past decade or so, I'm sure he's written a million things on subject, especially as the colour pie is one of his favourite themes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finding a definitive &quot;MaRo tells the colour pie like it is&quot; article is difficult though, especially as the colour pie morphs and shifts over time, through Mark's best efforts and despite them.  (I remember he spent quite a long time harping on about recent card Hornet Sting, as in his opinion it is an abomination to give green a direct damage spell of that sort.) However, I reckon if you read back through the Making Magic article archive, looking especially for pieces that are about defining the nature of the colours, you'll quickly start to understand how the people who make the game see their different roles, philosophies and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interests of providing a pat answer to your question though, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Color_Pie&quot;&gt;this wiki article&lt;/a&gt; courtesy of excellent fan MtG site mtgsalvation.  It's a pretty good attempt to define and collate all the things about each colour that make that colour what it is.  And, oh look, it's got helpful links to some of the best Mark Rosewater articles on each colour at the bottom of the page.  Sorted!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T08:05:20.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4585" CreationDate="2011-08-31T15:54:11.460" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not agree with the other answers that say Craftsman should be rarely taken.  By carefully consider seat order implications, if a player can answer the below questions in the affirmative then Craftsman &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be the choice if no better options present themselves.  First a review of what Craftsman does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why take Craftsman?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Craftsman generate barrels which turn into victory points.  As this is the obvious way to generate victory points many players deemphasize this after playing a few games, leaving this route to the newbies. I feel this is a mistake and leaves an opportunity that can be exploited.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get an extra barrel.  &lt;em&gt;Note that this barrel comes last so you cannot use this to deny others.&lt;/em&gt;  However early game, an extra Corn will get you a quick extra VP.  Mid game an extra Coffee or Tobacco may allow you to trade multiple times off of one Craftsman for extra $$.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;When to take Craftsman&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two primary things to consider in the general case when deciding whether to take Craftsman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Has Captain been taken in this round yet?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the big issue with Craftsman.  It is much better to take it in a round when Captain has already been chosen.  This limits the number of opportunities other folks will have to take Captain and deny you any benefit of your extra barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Will you benefit the next time Captain is taken?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to put some thought into your seat order.  For example, in a 5 player game, you are seated second.  Player 1 goes first and takes Captain.  &lt;strong&gt;You can now craft freely knowing that you will have the first shot at taking Captain next round.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you are seated third and take Craftsman you will get the second shot at Captain.  If player 2 takes Captain you are probably still going to get preferential loading of your barrels onto the ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get farther away from the current starting player, Craftsman becomes less attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you badly need money, you can consider the same two steps but in regard to Trader instead of Captain.  Sometimes you really need the money that trading a Coffee or Tobacco will give you.  A well chosen Trader can net you $5+ while potentially denying everyone else any benefit (if 3 spots are already filled for example).  While doing this you also need to give some though to the Captain.  You don't want to be forced to load your potential $7 barrel of Coffee on a ship right before you would get to pick Trader!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other reasons to take Craftsman?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are producing corn early in the game.  Get an extra barrel, it will likely turn into an extra VP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make sure you produce the maximum possible.  If there are only 3 Tobacco left in stock, then Craft to make sure &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; get them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because you have a wharf.  With a wharf you don't have to worry about being denied the opportunity to ship your goods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because you have a warehouse.  A warehouse will enable you to store your goods through the next Captain phase (assuming it will be chosen at a bad time for you).  Then you can ship them later on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To deny other people!  If it is obvious that that a later player will benefit greatly from Craftsman, taking it early can deny them a lot of barrels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To force someone to take Captain.  This is related to the previous one.  If you are going first in a round, and you know that a later player (4th or 5th) will definitely take Captain, you can often convince player 2 or 3 to Captain if you take Craftsman in front of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is money on it.  An extra $ or two can make all the difference!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are winning and not able to end the game.  Crafting is the engine that drives the game along.  If you are confident that you have a good lead then Crafting can occasionally help things along even if you don't directly benefit from the Crafting yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-08-31T15:54:11.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29686" CreationDate="2011-08-31T20:11:23.413" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started playing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.parlettgames.uk/wgames/quizl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;David Parlett's Quizl&lt;/a&gt;. It's a word game that is something like a cross between a word search and Battleship, and I really enjoy it. It's a two-player game, but I was wondering if anyone has adapted it for more players, along the same lines as multiplayer Battleship or Salvo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastEditorUserId="118" LastEditDate="2021-11-26T23:49:48.463" LastActivityDate="2021-11-26T23:49:48.463" Title="Multiplayer version of Quizl" Tags="|quizl|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4587" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:05:05.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard tournament rule for Dominion is allowing players to pick their initial hand (so they can choose whether they want a 5/2 or a 4/3 split).  That reduces a lot of the luck if there's a particularly good 5/2 combo out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T00:05:05.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4569" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:12:20.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play more aggressively -- beginners at Titan often underestimate the attackers advantage with a summoned Angel and don't attack when they should.  On your first split (not counting the initial pre-game split), you should be setting up one of the two split legions as an attacker, which strives to maximize immediate combat power rather than longer term recruiting.  Then use that guy to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even more aggressive -- use your Titan legion as the main attacker -- this is particularly effective if you roll a 6 for your first turn and get a Warlock.  The goal here is to build up your Titan legion by earning Angels rather than recruiting and win the game before anyone else can recruit anything more powerful than an Angel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When attacking you should ALWAYS offer a deal to resolve the battle without playing it out, unless its Titan vs Titan.  The goal is primarily to speed up the game, but it can also be a useful way to cooperate against against a 3rd player who is winning.  Figuring out what is the proper offer requires some experience, but often it is worth taking more losses than would likely have occurred in the actual battle to avoid summoning an angel when you don't particularly want to or to get rid of weak characters in a legion.  When making (or evaluating) an offer for battle resolution, take note of the board situation around the battle.  Leaving an enemy legion weakened in a spot where another player will get the benefit (points) of crushing it is not to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When defending, if you're outnumbered you should generally flee (to avoid giving the attacker full points) unless you have a decent chance of inflicting crippling losses on the attacking legion.  Just killing 3 or 4 weak creatures is not worth giving you opponent and angel and boost in Titan strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastEditorUserId="1019" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T17:37:14.467" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T17:37:14.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-01T00:40:05.877" Score="1" ViewCount="2873" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are unable to move forward when drawing a 10, do you have to move backwards 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1764" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-01T02:06:38.120" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T02:06:38.120" Title="Do you have to move backwards with a 10 in Sorry?" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4603" CreationDate="2011-09-01T02:06:02.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules are on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sorry!_%28game%29#Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10&lt;/strong&gt; - Move a pawn 10 spaces forward or 1 space backward. If a player cannot go forward ten spaces, he &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; go back one space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T02:06:02.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3582" CreationDate="2011-09-01T03:45:58.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not an official ruling, but the way I've seen it played is, when a daily power is used a second time, all related tokens are removed from the board and placed again by the player according to the rules of that power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1765" LastActivityDate="2011-09-01T03:45:58.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4607" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-02T00:39:07.013" Score="8" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the max number of gates allowed on the board is, for example, 6, does the Ancient One wake up on the 6th or 7th gate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that the answer to that should be that the Ancient One wakes up on the 7th gate, but I'm not too sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally and as a clarification, all gates count regardless of if they are on the expansion boards, right? It's the monsters that don't count if they're outside Arkham itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1769" LastEditorUserId="1757" LastEditDate="2011-09-04T20:12:48.090" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T20:12:48.090" Title="In Arkham Horror, how many gates wakes the Ancient One?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4607" CreationDate="2011-09-02T02:34:57.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;See page 20 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.  It has a table with the number of players vs. the number of open gates with the note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The number of open gates that will &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; awaken the&#xA;  Ancient One depends on the number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 5 players, the number is 6.  When the sixth gate is opened, the Ancient One will awaken immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gates count towards the total wherever they are.  Do remember that when playing with more than one large expansion board you should count the total number of players as one less than actual for most purposes including the number of open gates needed to awaken the ancient one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T02:34:57.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3723" CreationDate="2011-09-02T08:14:28.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A much more important reason is to allow the responder to describe their hand more fully. A 1NT opening bid describes both shape and point count and so it's usually up to responder to then set the contract - the 1NT opener will typically not bid again. However, responder with points for a 2NT raise and a five card major is in a quandary. Bidding 2NT may mean missing a 5-3 major suit fit, but bidding 3M may take them past the safe level of 2NT if opener is minimum. With transfers, responder gets two bites at the cherry. Holding five spades, responder bids 2H. Opener converts to 2S and now responder bids 2NT getting across shape and point count and leaving opener much better placed to set the final contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T08:14:28.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3749" CreationDate="2011-09-02T08:18:52.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A significant drawback of Gerber is that it interferes with cue-bidding sequences. Gerber is now seen as rather old-fashioned, although you will still find plenty of people who play it. It does have the virtue of keeping the bidding at a lower level if you don't get the answer you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1771" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T08:18:52.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2011-09-02T11:12:45.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;VASSAL is an excellent tool for remote play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This evening I played remotely using vassal, the arkahm horror wiki, and google video. I can state that the tracking mechanics of VASSAL (with all expansions installed) offers just the right amount of support to provide for remote play over webcam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The webcam, positioned a laptop's height above the board facing so that the text is readable on the webcam, provides an excellent view of the board and associated tokens. Monster tokens should be inserted into plastic holders and be upright instead of flat, for more effective visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A character should be maintained within VASSAL, with item cards being taken from decks in the real board with a quick &quot;choose from deck&quot; within vassal. It is fast and can be done while other players are taking their turns. While it is necessary for monster details to be read out, playing via webcam and vassal is far better than not playing at all and something that I will do again. In fact, it is better than actual play within VASSAL, due to the feeling of actually sitting at the board and the ease at which players at the tables handle cards and deal with the physical interactions required of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="233" LastActivityDate="2011-09-02T11:12:45.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4616" CreationDate="2011-09-03T18:59:07.190" Score="8" ViewCount="2431" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm still pondering over our Cylon's greatest loss in the last 6 player game we played.&#xA;In turn 3 the first Cylon player got executed by an &lt;code&gt;Admiral Chooses&lt;/code&gt; crisis card (Kain-player resolved that one true to character). Soon thereafter the 2nd Cylon revealed himself, turn 6 if I remember correctly, which was quickly followed by the Sleeper Agent phase.&lt;br /&gt; Now, what happens at this moment is that one of the Cylon players is dealt the &lt;code&gt;You are sympathetic Cylon&lt;/code&gt; loyalty card. Which he, according to the rules must reveal immediately, and he becomes revealed Cylon. This seemed and felt a bit redundant, and quite a disadvantage for the Cylons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the base game rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player receives a &lt;code&gt;You&#xA;  are a Sympathizer&lt;/code&gt; card, then he must immediately reveal&#xA;  and resolve it. If he is a revealed Cylon player, then he may&#xA;  first give the card to any other player (who then immediately&#xA;  resolves it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pegasus rules instead say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a human player receives this card (&lt;i&gt;&lt;code&gt;You are a Sympathetic Cylon&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/i&gt;) during the Sleeper phase, he must immediately reveal it. However, rather than following normal Sympathizer rules, this player becomes a revealed Cylon and draws an Agenda from the Sympathetic Agenda deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would like to know is if we interpreted the Pegasus rules correctly in the way that the part of the rule &lt;code&gt;rather than following normal Sympathizer rules&lt;/code&gt; also affects passing on this card to another player as was done in the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested, Humans won with 4 fuel, 8 Food, 5 Morale and 9 Population, two civilian ships where destroyed while in space (&lt;code&gt;Blind Jump&lt;/code&gt; by Kain), only one civilian ship was left behind on New Caprica. All the Raptors were accounted for and only one Viper was damaged. Only three Jumps were made to reach New Caprica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T14:11:10.987" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T14:11:10.987" Title="You are a sympathetic Cylon" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4615" CreationDate="2011-09-04T02:04:30.230" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A revealed Cylon player must always pass the &lt;em&gt;You are a Sympathizer&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;You are a Sympathetic Cylon&lt;/em&gt; cards to another player. The Pegasus rule you quoted is for &quot;when a &lt;strong&gt;human&lt;/strong&gt; player receives&quot; the card. See page 7 of the Pegasus rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sleeper Phase: When a Cylon player receives Loyalty Cards during&#xA;  the Sleeper Agent phase, he looks at all of his facedown Loyalty&#xA;  Cards and gives them to one human  player of his choice. &lt;strong&gt;If the Cylon&#xA;  player receives a “You Are Sympathizer” or a “You Are a Sympathetic&#xA;  Cylon” card, he does not reveal it.  Instead, the human player he&#xA;  passes it to must immediately  reveal this Loyalty Card as if it had&#xA;  been dealt to him.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the original rule in the base game hasn't changed. It's just been expanded to include the &lt;em&gt;You are a Sympathetic Cylon&lt;/em&gt; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-09-04T03:06:27.870" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T03:06:27.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4618" CreationDate="2011-09-04T14:01:38.210" Score="2" ViewCount="5026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got a MTG card named Liege of the Tangle: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card details&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused here. What does that &quot;awakening counter&quot; mean? How long will it remain? Can it be removed from the land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2020-03-30T23:32:24.763" Title="Liege of the Tangle with awakening counter - how does it work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4617" CreationDate="2011-09-04T14:36:29.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A counter in &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; is permanent. This means it will stay in the game as long as it doesn't get removed by a spell or ability or the card to which it is attached leaves the battlefield (i.e. by dying, by getting exiled, etc.) This means that every land on which you put an awakening counter will stay a 8/8 green Elemental creature until it leaves the battlefield or something removes the counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody can remove the counter without an appropriate spell or other mechanic as mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be careful how many lands you want to transform. If your opponent has a mass creature destroyer in his hand like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=186309&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;, and he gets to play it, you could lose a lot of lands because they are creatures now as well. I played Liege of the Tangle myself a while ago and I adjusted the amount of lands I transformed based on the deck of my opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T17:32:06.657" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:32:06.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4617" CreationDate="2011-09-04T14:37:24.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules clarification says all there is to say. &quot;Awakening counters&quot; are just a certain type of counter that's put on the target lands. They remain on a land as long as that permanent stays on the battlefield, or until an ability removes those counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T14:37:24.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4622" CreationDate="2011-09-04T20:10:45.643" Score="6" ViewCount="16919" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to use the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adaptive Automaton&lt;/a&gt; in my white artifacts deck. Most of the creatures in the deck are artifact creatures. Now, I am not sure if &quot;artifact creature&quot; is a correct creature type. Let's take &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palladium Myr&lt;/a&gt; for example. It is of creature type &quot;Myr&quot; and also an &quot;artifact creature&quot;. Are both attributes real creature types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case I cannot choose &quot;artifact creature&quot;, those automatons will find a new home in my Elves deck, but I would prefer to have them in my white artifacts deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T20:55:52.440" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:24:16.403" Title="Can I choose &quot;Artifact Creature&quot; as a creature type as Adaptive Automaton enters the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-09-04T20:39:00.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Artifact creature&quot; is a &lt;em&gt;card type&lt;/em&gt; (2 types to be exact, Artifact, and Creature), not a &lt;em&gt;creature type&lt;/em&gt;. A &lt;em&gt;creature type&lt;/em&gt; is always a sub-type of the &quot;Creature&quot; card type, like Elf, Orc, HUman, Soldier, Myr, and so on. So since Adaptive Automaton requires you to pick a &lt;em&gt;creature type&lt;/em&gt;, you cannot pick &quot;Artifact Creature&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-09-04T20:39:00.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4620" CreationDate="2011-09-04T22:07:25.100" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't, because &quot;artifact&quot; is not a &lt;em&gt;creature type&lt;/em&gt;, it's a &lt;em&gt;card type&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The information on the type line is divided into two portions, the type(s) and the subtype(s). Each word before the dash represents a type of the card, and each word after the dash (if any) represents a subtype. For example, Palladium Myr's type line says &quot;Artifact Creature - Myr&quot; so &quot;artifact&quot; and &quot;creature&quot; are its types and &quot;Myr&quot; is its subtype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card says &quot;creature type,&quot; it effectively means &quot;subtype of a card which has 'Creature' or 'Tribal' as a type.&quot; In other words, the creature type is always a subtype, something that must appear &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the complete list of possible creature types is given in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;, rule 204.3k as of this writing. When a card like Adaptive Automaton asks you to choose a creature type, you're only allowed to choose one of the words from that list (according to rule 204.3d).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T00:24:16.403" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:24:16.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4658" CreationDate="2011-09-05T00:09:47.797" Score="5" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would there be enough cards for two players to build adequate decks with only one copy of the base set and/or the Asylum Packs, or would each player have to have their own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T05:46:30.247" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T05:46:30.247" Title="If two people wanted to play, would each have to buy the cards?" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4625" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-05T01:55:22.123" Score="1" ViewCount="2129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had a ton of fun playing an old version of Shandalar on my PC. The computer opponents are great and I love the card antes and everything, but there's only around 600 cards and the rules are somewhat out of date (you get a mulligan ONLY if you got no land or spells). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any newer MTG computer games? I have these preferences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do NOT want online play. I know there's plenty of places for that, but it's not what I'm looking for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As many cards as possible. 600 sounds like a lot, but at this point I've pretty much seen all of them, so there as many new things in the game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;True to actual MTG rules. I don't want an RTS or anything, I want to play real Magic, just against the computer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic%3a_The_Gathering_video_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I know there's a list here,&lt;/a&gt; but many of those come nothing close to my conditions. If I need to I'll ask on gaming, but I thought I'd try here first as I don't know how many people there actually play Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T04:26:58.967" Title="What computer games based on Magic: The Gathering are there?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|computers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2011-09-05T06:38:45.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4625" CreationDate="2011-09-05T03:29:55.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what you're looking for is basically a Magic artificial intelligence. Magic is a complex game so creating an AI to play it is pretty difficult. That being said, it has been done (well, attempted); I have memories dating from probably 5+ years ago of playing against a computer opponent in some program whose identity I forget. The computer wasn't all that good though. (&lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; wasn't all that good back then, and it didn't take me long to learn to beat it reliably)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the list you linked to, under the section &quot;Independent and freeware adaptations&quot; there are a few listings that mention AI being included. I'd suggest you take a look at those if you haven't already, although I wouldn't expect too much because, as I said, it's a very difficult problem... even more so because Wizards tends to crack down on independent developers using the Magic brand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T03:29:55.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4625" CreationDate="2011-09-05T04:26:58.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enjoyed Shandalar, then the spiritual successor is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/digital/duelsoftheplaneswalkers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic: The Gathering - Duels of the Planeswalkers 2012&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download the demo. It hits all your points, just ignore the online play option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T04:26:58.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4275" CreationDate="2011-09-05T05:27:23.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't be able to use rules that were army specific that came from different codex books, for instance, you can't use rules for the blood angels and also rules for the space wolves in the same army - however, you could just use them all as 'standard' marines and ignore special army specific rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used to have a lot of new players in my old gaming group, that would mix and match armies purchased on ebay, etc., and slowly work themselves into an army of their own but using different units with different paint schemes to get rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T05:27:23.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-09-05T17:05:09.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25951/the-castle-of-the-devil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Castle of the Devil&lt;/a&gt; is a great game where you use support, attack, and trade to try and reveal who's on your side by exchanging information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1564" LastEditorUserId="1564" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T04:53:07.787" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T04:53:07.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-09-05T18:16:12.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest game I know that matches your needs is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2290/ghosts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghosts!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It's a 2 players game. Each one has 8 ghosts, 4 are good, 4 are bad. The goal is either to eat the opponents 4 good ghosts or to let him eat your own 4 bad ghosts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strategy would be to send bad ghosts to the opposite side of the board, expecting the other player to eat them. But the opponent knowing that, you could try and tempt him with good ghosts, making him think that they are bad. But him knowing that, you could...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your information, such a mechanism is called &quot;Second guessing&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T18:16:12.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4578" CreationDate="2011-09-05T18:43:07.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason you wouldn't want to load up on Barons and Estates: for each Baron/Estate pair, you could have bought 2 silvers. They'd guarantee you $4 each time, and are much more consistent (vs when you draw Estates with no Barons or Barons with no Estates).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2011-09-05T18:43:07.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4634" CreationDate="2011-09-05T22:14:29.973" Score="5" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to make some new Settlers tiles and would like to know what is the best method to make Settlers like tiles that are roughly the same size and thickness to standard settlers tiles with a custom printed image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T16:49:45.833" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T16:49:45.833" Title="What is the best method to make new Settlers like tiles" Tags="|catan|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4632" CreationDate="2011-09-06T00:38:52.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best is a factor of both cost and volume.  If you're like most hobby board game prototypers, then you're looking for a low cost solution, and you'll be making only a handful of tiles.  For this, the manual process is best.  This involves buying cardboard of the appropriate weight, printing your tiles with an inkjet printer, gluing the paper to the cardboard, and cutting it out with an x-acto knife.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be able to find everything you need from your local hobby store (bring a settlers tile to the store to find the kind you need).  You'll want something that's just a tiny bit thinner than the actual settlers tile, because of the paper and glue.  I suggest a spray adhesive, since it's easier to apply evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After printing your image onto the paper, tape it taut, face-down on all four corners to a larger piece of cardboard first, then apply the glue, and finally the cardboard.  Since the cardboard is heavier this will prevent unwanted bubbles in the paper.  Start from the middle and apply even pressure in increasing concentric circles (some people suggest using a spoon, I use my fingers just fine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're wanting multiple tiles, you can obviously do as many as you can fit on the paper at once to save some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T00:38:52.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4632" CreationDate="2011-09-06T01:46:00.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have access to a die-cutting press, as many teachers might, one can buy a hexagon press die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google Sizzix/Westminster Bigz Dies  Hexagon and you find several sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They make a block of 6x 3/4&quot; and 1&quot; hexes (suitable for counters), and one of 4x 2&quot; hexes, and one which does 2.5&quot; hexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check your local craft stores and school supply stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The presses run from $50 to several hundred dollars, and the dies $20 to $50 apiece, so this is not an inexpensive solution. Nor is it efficient; you'll need to manually line up the graphic. It will, however, allow for leather, magnet, chipboard, and other non-paper samples to be easily made in a regular size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using them without a suitable press requires a firm hand, a smooth hard surface, and a rolling pin that can take your weight...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T01:46:00.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4600" CreationDate="2011-09-06T02:25:58.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a single-player version available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ericsolomon.co.uk/qz/quizl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  However, I do not believe it's available in a multiplayer version anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T02:25:58.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4600" CreationDate="2011-09-06T08:50:23.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen any multiplayer versions before, but why couldn't you play this the same way that you play multiplayer battleships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played a few variations of multiplayer battleships. One where you select a square in a single opponent's grid, another where all shots hit all grids.  I've even played a version where your shots hit all opponent's grids, but not your own (which made it very tempting to shoot at your own ships).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players would score for guessing a password as in the original game.  You could implement a score penalty for an incorrect guess, otherwise there would be significantly less benefit in revealing an opponent's square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to enlarge the search space (for example, if playing that all shots hit all grids) then each player could create several 5x5 grids, only one of which contains a five letter word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T08:50:23.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4640" CreationDate="2011-09-06T10:36:15.133" Score="26" ViewCount="64938" Body="&lt;p&gt;I heard - (from an official MtG judge) - that Wrath of God (&lt;em&gt;&quot;Destroy all creatures&quot;&lt;/em&gt;) destroys creatures with the &lt;strong&gt;Shroud&lt;/strong&gt; ability, because it doesn't &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; a single creature, it targets &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; creatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this really true? In my opinion it is very illogical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:24:25.580" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T05:45:14.997" Title="Does Wrath of God really destroy creatures with shroud?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:23:18.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4638" CreationDate="2011-09-06T10:50:38.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only Wrath of God is possible of doing this: Damnation, Hallowed Burial, Infest and Pyroclasm for instance can do it as well. Because they don't target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T10:50:38.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4638" CreationDate="2011-09-06T11:54:19.433" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Wrath of God will kill all creatures with shroud.  It will also kill all creatures that have protection from white.  It &lt;em&gt;won't&lt;/em&gt; kill creatures that are indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand why this is, you have to look at the definitions of the terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shroud means: &quot;this creature can't be the target of spells or abilities&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection means (among other things): &quot;this creature can't be the target of spells or abilities of the colour in question&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrath of God just says &quot;Destroy all creatures&quot;.  No mention of targets at all.  And I think this is where your confusion is arising.  Wrath of God doesn't &quot;target all creatures and destroy them&quot;.  It doesn't target anything.  It just destroys them, whether they're slippery customers or not.  Boom!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indestructible creatures survive a Wrath because their ability (&quot;cannot be destroyed&quot;) specifically interacts with the word &quot;destroy&quot; on the card Wrath of God.  Creatures with Shroud only interact with, and care about, the word &quot;target&quot; on a card.  If you can't find &quot;target&quot; written anywhere on the card, then Shroud won't have any effect on what that card can do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an interesting side point, take a look at a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83807&quot;&gt;Copy Enchantment&lt;/a&gt;.  This puts into play a copy of an enchantment already on the battlefield.  But note that &lt;em&gt;nowhere on the card does it say &quot;target&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.  This means that if you copy an Aura on the battlefield, you can put that copy onto a creature with Shroud... even if the original Aura would have been unable to enchant that creature when it was cast!  Sometimes Magic does some pretty counter-intuitive things, but it's very internally consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that's clarified things more than it's confused them, for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T17:22:03.323" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:22:03.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:42:09.793" Score="2" ViewCount="845" Body="&lt;p&gt;This dice game version of Arkham Horror is about to be published by Fantasy Flight but a lot of gamers have already picked it up or at least demoed it at GenCon and PAX Prime. I've read a few comments that stated Elder Sign did not play in one hour as advertised, but these comments were rather vague. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a group consensus on how long this game takes to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T05:57:08.840" Title="How long does it take to play Elder Sign?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4643" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:48:49.983" Score="13" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;So here is the basic idea: My opponent has put one of my checkers on the bar and begins bearing off.  A turn or two later, I get a lucky roll and move off the bar, putting one of my opponent's checkers on the bar.  Assuming I already had my home area covered, I continue to roll until I start bearing off, when my opponent encounters some serious bad luck in the rolling department and isn't able to move his checker off the bar until his last turn.  On my next roll I get lucky again, role doubles, and I'm done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have borne off all my checkers, and my opponent still has a checker in my home area, is this a backgammon, or has the fact that my opponent has borne off at least one checker make this only a cube?  I was always taught that cube is only when the loser has all their checkers in their home area and have borne off at least one checker, however another answer here, as well as wikipedia seem to indicate otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T03:39:04.747" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T14:15:42.893" Title="When is a backgammon not a backgammon?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4642" CreationDate="2011-09-06T12:59:27.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A backgammon occurs when you have borne off ALL your checkers, and BOTH of the following are true: 1) Your opponent has at least one checker in your home area and 2) Your opponent has borne off NO checkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, your opponent had ALREADY begun bearing off checkers when he got hit. So the fact that this checker was in your home board has no bearing on &quot;backgammon.&quot; (And if he had gotten it out of your home board before you bore off, there would have been no gammon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cube can operate with or without a gammon or backgammon, so you get the value of the cube in this instance. If you're playing &quot;Jacoby Rule,&quot; you can't score a gammon or backgammon without the cube's being turned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T14:15:42.893" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T14:15:42.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4638" CreationDate="2011-09-06T13:27:49.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that all the cards mentioned except for Pyroclasm also kills creatures with protection from &amp;lt; color &gt;. Pyroclasm doesn't kill them because protection, besides from making it untargetable, also prevents damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a lot of people missunderstanding this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T04:09:48.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T04:09:48.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4650" CreationDate="2011-09-06T13:29:38.127" Score="5" ViewCount="6005" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which famous board games such as monopoly are unlicensed? Which games could you recreate and sell without having to pay royalties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a list somewhere of all board games and their license, or how would you go about finding out which games are unlicensed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My google skills seem to be failing me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1785" LastActivityDate="2024-01-14T16:27:51.953" Title="Which famous (board) games are unlicenced and royalty free?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2024-01-14T04:38:57.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4641" CreationDate="2011-09-06T13:42:36.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/100423/elder-sign&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardgamesgeek suggests it takes 120 minutes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know where your &quot;one hour figure&quot; comes from, whether it's written on the box or not, but I'd definitely tend to take the word of the diehard gamers at BGG over the word of the manufacturers, every time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T13:42:36.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-09-06T13:58:58.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange no one has proposed &lt;strong&gt;Munchkin&lt;/strong&gt;. It's some sort of D&amp;amp;D and MtG hybrid, but unlike former it has strict rules and is card-based (much easier to analyze in-game situation) and unlike latter players' interaction with each other (trading, forming temporary alliances, doing bad stuff to other players etc.) play a big role in it. The rules, however, could not be called very simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other good game: &lt;strong&gt;Life boat&lt;/strong&gt;. Pretty simple, has strict rules and is actually about players' interactions. It also sort-of enforces in-game friends and enemies (each person randomly receive two cards specifying his &quot;friend&quot; and his &quot;enemy&quot;. These cards can't be shown to other players, and if &quot;friend&quot; is alive (and &quot;enemy&quot; is dead) when game ends, one get additional points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also vote up for &lt;strong&gt;Mafia&lt;/strong&gt; (I don't have enough rep. to actually vote up), it seams to suit your purposes excellently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1786" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T13:58:58.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4649" CreationDate="2011-09-06T15:13:31.940" Score="7" ViewCount="2922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was excited to see Small World Underground on the shelves of the local game shop yesterday, but neither the box nor the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/underground/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official web site&lt;/a&gt; seem to offer a succinct comparison with the original game.  It's clear that the races and maps have changed, but what else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, how well does Underground work when used as an expansion for the original game (or vice versa)?  Some races have terrain-dependent powers, but at a glance, Underground doesn't appear to use any of the original terrain types.  Similarly, which expansions for the original game work with Underground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="897" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T16:32:21.197" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T16:32:21.197" Title="What are the differences between Small World and SW Underground?" Tags="|small-world|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4648" CreationDate="2011-09-06T15:49:05.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a great &quot;first look&quot; at Small World Underground &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/658992/a-first-look-at-the-rulebook&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  This section in particular caught my eye:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After you choose a map, do not use powers that depend on features&#xA;  that are not present.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The following features are considered equivalent concerning their&#xA;  interaction with powers:&#xA;  -- Black Mountains / Mountains&#xA;  -- Mudpools / Marshes&#xA;  -- Mushroom Forests / Forests&#xA;  -- Mines / Mine symbols&#xA;  -- Mystic Crystals / Magic Symbols&#xA;  -- Rivers / Seas &amp;amp; Lake&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would add that some of the special powers in SWU duplicate racial&#xA;  powers in SW, or vice versa. If they happened to get combined&#xA;  (Immortal Elves, for example), I would simply put them back in the bag&#xA;  and draw again. [Edit: Many such combos are OK, since they enhance&#xA;  each other -- e.g. Commando Ogres, Vampire Sorcerers -- just like&#xA;  Pillaging Orcs in SW.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sound of it, there has been some effort to &quot;integrate&quot; the two different games so that they are not basically incompatible (i.e. making sure there are analogous terrain types), but this only goes so far.  Some races may not work, and some races may get special powers that duplicate their racial powers.  So it could prove a bit annoying making them work together, if you like things to be really neat and tidy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T15:49:05.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4645" CreationDate="2011-09-06T17:22:47.490" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No singular registry exists. Nor, particularly, is it needed. Copyright expires after some 20-90 years, depending upon country and current laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, anything older than 1920 or so is fair game. (Pun intentional.) But note also, if you simply reprint a work with an expired copyright, you can't copyright it in most jurisdictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name, however, is another matter. Those are trademarks. US and UK Trademarks don't have a duration. Monopoly is, in fact, still a defended trademark, even tho' the rules have been in the public domain for years.  Trademark laws vary widely; consult a lawyer for details of yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trademarks are readily searched using various search engines by country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is compelling legal theory (and a little US caselaw) that says you can duplicate the mechanics of a game without license, provided you reword it. You cannot, however, use the trademarks nor original text/wording, original art, nor overly close art. In any case, the line s fuzzy, and varies by country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T17:22:47.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4652" CreationDate="2011-09-06T17:48:58.293" Score="8" ViewCount="9613" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has puzzled me for quite a while. It was a statement on the box that I own that triggered it, translated it says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The strategic player can outwit his opponent and win all his pebbles&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My 3 year old son loves the game since he wins every time (his victory condition is to be the first with no pebbles left to play). It gives me the opportunity to try to get as many as possible. The most I finished the game with, was 46 six pebbles, though I'm not sure if something was amiss there (like misplaced pebbles). And I am as of yet unsuccessful at recreating this end-game condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about the normal 6 holes * two players * 4 pebbles a hole game = 48 pebbles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is it possible to get all of the pebbles? Or do strategic players embody the mantra &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are not trying to cheat, you are not trying to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2017-08-09T00:57:59.313" Title="What is the largest amount of pebbles in mancala to win with?" Tags="|mancala|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2011-09-06T20:02:43.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: you've not defined which version. Yes, I know, yo've specified some starting conditions. But not the capture conditions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2: There are literally hundreds of variants of Mancala, and at least 3 different capture mechanics I've played.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3: the normal setup is 12 pits... 6 per player...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, despite these, I think I can answer the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that I'm most familiar with Oh-wah-ree, the 3M bookcase game, which has a capture condition of &quot;last stone played landed in an opponent's pit with 1, 2 or 3 stones already present, regress backward for additional pits captured&quot;... And Oh-Wah-Ree's end is only one player can move, and can't provide a piece to another player (which is required if possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible, in theory, to capture all the stones on the board in this variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most variants, it's possible to capture all the stones, but not easy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the variants where you sow to the capture pit at each end, it's virtually impossible as your opponent must sow at least the starting number of pebbles worth into their own capture (if your capture is at the end of your side) or you must sow theirs (if your capture is at the beginning of your side).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-09-06T20:02:43.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4656" CreationDate="2011-09-07T03:28:53.033" Score="6" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble putting my finger on clear guidelines for choosing when to announce a power down, and would love to hear some analyses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="1757" LastEditDate="2011-09-07T10:16:20.367" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T13:57:50.157" Title="What are useful guidelines for deciding when to power down in RoboRally?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2011-09-07T03:38:06.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A key question is whether you'll do as much missing the first of the next, say, three turns after powering down as you would have done with all three turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that it's clearly wrong to announce when I am expecting to have only 2 damage, and probably wrong when I'm expecting to have 3 damage.  I don't have any probability analysis to back this up, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm landing on a conveyor belt that will take me closer to where I'm going, I am only slightly more likely to power down.  I recommend against overemphasizing this (conveyor belts concentrate robots, and people might push me off or shoot me while on the same conveyor belt). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm expecting to be in the &quot;thick of things&quot; at the end of my turn, I may end up with nearly as much damage as I started with, so I would almost not power down at all unless I am expecting locked registers.  The loss of control for a whole turn can be very damaging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm going to be in an area difficult to leave (such as being in between conveyor belts that point at me, and needing move 2 or move 3 to make progress) I am more likely to choose a power down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T03:38:06.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2011-09-07T06:46:39.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think about powering down until the first register is locked. If the number of robots in the field is low, I might continue one or two turns, but if the number of robots is more than four, I will power down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I announce my power down, I will try to move away from the clutter of robots to avoid a possible death. And I will definitely not power down on a conveyor belt, but that's just due previous experiences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T06:46:39.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4653" CreationDate="2011-09-07T13:57:50.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things to take into account:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your position in the race&lt;/strong&gt;. If I 'm comfortably ahead, I will be somewhat more inclined to power down (willing to accept a known handicap rather than possibly risk an unknown turn of events if I take much damage quickly). If I 'm trying to catch up, I will only power down if it seems my progress is getting way too slow due to locked registers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terrain&lt;/strong&gt;. Contrary to other answers, I will be more inclined to power down on conveyor belts that take me closer to where I want to be. I might even power down when I normally would not consider doing so, because it's unlikely that I would be able to effectively utilize all 5 registers &lt;em&gt;while at the same time staying on the belt&lt;/em&gt;. From that perspective, it costs less to power down in this situation. Of course all of this assumes that I &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; stay on the belt, which brings us to...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proximity to other robots&lt;/strong&gt;. Obviously powering down when near other robots is risky, even more so if there is deadly terrain nearby. In this situation I would consider powering down only if in imminent danger of being destroyed, and even then I might risk it if my last archive was close by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T13:57:50.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4578" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:07:57.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blindly stockpiling Barons and casting them as fast as you can is probably a very bad strategy. But Baron is a very good card overall because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gives you a very good chance of getting a &lt;strong&gt;big money boost early in the game&lt;/strong&gt;. After buying a Baron you are highly likely to have a 6 to 8 gold turn in your next shuffle, and 6 is a magic number in Dominion. Buying a Gold on turn 3 or 4 will only serve to boost the massive (for early game standards) money boost, and then you can easily start laying into the good stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gives you &lt;strong&gt;+1 buy&lt;/strong&gt; along with the money, which is significant. There are many card pools that reward having multiple buys when you have a big money turn, and the Baron guarantees this. Also, if there is no other +buy card in the pool it's even more important to have one or two Barons in your deck (I 'm leaving the relatively small percentage of pools where buys don't really matter out of the equation).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can allow you to &lt;strong&gt;combo insanely under favorable circumstances&lt;/strong&gt;. If the pool favors explosive combo turns, and especially if there is a card like Library or Watchtower along with the +actions to utilize it, Baron allows you to get all the benefits with none of the drawbacks. You will be able to cast it and also discard the Estate, then continue comboing with Library. If you have also used trashing on your deck, you can even leave a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; Estate and discard/redraw it multiple times!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, IMHO Baron is one of the better 4-cost cards. Will not always be a first or second turn pick with 4$, but it does have a good chance of making it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:07:57.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4624" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:19:29.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely, for a reasonable expectation of &quot;adequate&quot;. While there aren't enough cards included to create single-faction decks, you could easily make several, viable, multi-faction decks out of nothing but the base set. When you add in a couple of asylum packs, you're set for quite some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1791" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:19:29.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:23:16.393" Score="1" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a scenario where I land 2 Alien Ships at a Location with a Resistance level of 1. This means there will be 1 Fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=COPE_Terms:_Battles%2C_Fights%2C_and_Fight_Rounds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battles, Fights, and Fight Rounds section of the Rules Wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very important set of terminology to differentiate are the terms Battle, Fight, and Fight Round. A Battle is all of the Fights at a given Location, a Fight is single combat against one Human Resistance (or a grouping of enemy Aliens), and a Fight Round is one round of combat between the Aliens and the Resistance to see if either side is defeated. So one Fight is a subset of an entire Battle, and a Fight Round is a subset of a single Fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, if your Aliens attack a City Location with a Resistance Value of 3, which would be a Battle involving 3 separate Fights (one Fight for each of the Resistance). Each of those Fights would then be resolved in a series of Fight Rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the conclusion of that Fight Round, the Resistance has a higher Strength Total. That means that they win the Fight Round and I lose an Alien ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=COPE_Resolving_the_Fight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resolving the Fight section of the Rules Wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever side has the higher Strength Total (including Fight Dice rolls) wins the Fight Round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that is the only (and, therefore, final) Fight of the Battle, the fighting should be completed for my turn, I believe, because it says &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt;, below. This would only be true if there were more Fight Rounds to be completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=COPE_Resistance_Victory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Resistance Victory section of the Rules WIki&lt;/a&gt; (Emphasis added by me):&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Resistance wins the Fight Round, 1 of the Alien Saucers involved is Destroyed and returned to the player’s Alien Pool. &lt;strong&gt;If there are still Aliens at the Location, you may start a new Fight Round.&lt;/strong&gt; If there are no Alien Saucers left at the Location, the Battle is over and the Aliens have lost (any remaining Resistance cards are discarded).&#xA;Next time this Location is attacked by Aliens, a brand new Battle must be fought from the beginning; with entirely new Resistance (any Fights previously won here are ignored).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this simply mean that the remaining Alien Ship stays on that Location (and can therefore start the attack over again on my next turn), or does it mean that I have survived all of the Resistance that the humans can throw at me and I have therefore conquered that Location (and should place a Conquest Marker on it, gaining the associated Terror Points)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.: If someone with 150+ Reputation could add &amp;quot;conquest-of-planet-earth&amp;quot; as a tag, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: thesunneversets response got me thinking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=COPE_Exploring_Empty_Spaces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exploring Empty Spaces section&lt;/a&gt; says...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to conquer a Location you must fight a number of Human Resistance equal to the Resistance Value of that Location.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but it doesn't say you must &lt;em&gt;win&lt;/em&gt; the fight, just that you must fight them. Later on in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=COPE_Battle_at_an_Existing_Location&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battle at an Existing Location&lt;/a&gt; section, it says...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have one or more Aliens at a Location with a Resistance Value of 1 or higher that has not been conquered (no Conquest Marker on it), you must fight a Battle there as described in the section on Fights below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and similarly in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=COPE_Fight_any_Enemies_at_a_Location&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fight any Enemies at a Location&lt;/a&gt; section,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have one or more Aliens at a Location (or Landing Site) with one or more Resistance Counters or enemy Aliens, you must resolve a Battle at that Location as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because these rules seem to indicate that an Alien Ship could be on a Location without explicitly having moved there in the same turn, I'm inclined at this time to think the Alien Ship can stay there, but the Conquest Token doesn't get placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1658" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T21:17:19.857" Title="In Conquest of Planet Earth, Do I conquer a Location with my remaining Alien Ships after Losing the final Fight Round?" Tags="|conquest-of-planet-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4659" CreationDate="2011-09-07T14:57:34.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the line &quot;you may start a new Fight Round&quot; means that the Alien Ship can stay on the Location, or claim a victory.  I think it means &quot;you may carry on trying to defeat the Resistance by starting a new Fight Round... or choose another valid option&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other valid options are there?  See the next section of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After each Fight Round is resolved, the Aliens have the opportunity to&#xA;  escape; immediately ending the Battle as though the Aliens had lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's completely intuitive, based on other similar boardgames, that you should have to keep attacking until you either win fairly or are forced to flee.  No sneaky short cuts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T14:57:34.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4662" CreationDate="2011-09-07T15:48:31.733" Score="0" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/alvin-dexter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alvin and Dexter&lt;/a&gt; expansion looks like an interesting one, and one you could quite easily do yourself.  To that end, how many cards of each type of monster do you get in the expansion pack and what is the value of the bonuses for each monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-02-22T02:31:28.180" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T02:31:28.180" Title="How many monster cards / what is the bonus value in the Alvin and Dexter Ticket to Ride expansion" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-alvin-and-dexter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4661" CreationDate="2011-09-07T16:11:32.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 40 cards (20 for each figure) and the bonus cards are worth 15 points each.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would strongly urge you to buy the expansion yourself though - it's not all that expensive really, Days of Wonder games always have above averagely beautiful components, and games designers need to eat too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T16:11:32.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-09-07T16:18:53.647" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Castling is still done in &quot;modern&quot; openings, but it doesn't quite have the urgency that it used to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;In the old days&quot; (until about 30-40 years ago), the accepted practice was to develop as quickly as possible, castle (usually kingside), and then start an attack against the enemy king. &quot;Nice&quot; for White (who gets the first move), not so great for Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With increasing frequency, Black started to play for positional compensation elsewhere on the board other than kingside (center or queenside). Such maneuvers often required extended sequences in which (early) castling would be a wasted move. White, in turn, sometimes delays castling to counter these maneuvers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are other sequences in which Black waits for White to start an attack on one side of the board, and then castles on the OTHER side. The idea is to cause those attacking moves to be &quot;wasted,&quot; thereby nullifying the advantage of White's first move.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T16:18:53.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4624" CreationDate="2011-09-07T16:27:28.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/375908/the-core-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This review of the core set&lt;/a&gt; says you get about three starter decks worth of cards in the base pack. Plus, the core set is intended to get two people playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you can play two player games of the CoC LCG with only a single copy of the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T16:27:28.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4651" CreationDate="2011-09-07T17:14:53.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried it out just now, with the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sow your last pebble to the capture pit: get another turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sow your last pebble in an empty pit that's your, collect opposite, opponents pit plus your own last pebble sown.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have no pebbles left, the game ends and you gain all of the opponents pebbles in he has left (of course not the ones in his capture pit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Requirements&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I get to start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A stupid player, so this will be a proof that it is possible, but it&#xA;will probably never happen in real life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;boardlayout (I play 1 to 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 12         7&#xA;O : : : : : : O &amp;lt;-- my capture pit &#xA;  1         6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I start by playing pit 4 --&gt; gives me an extra turn, in which I play pit 6.&#xA;Opponent plays pit 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play pit 5, which gives me an extra turn, in which I play pit 4. &#xA;Opponent plays pit 7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play pit 1. Opponent plays pit 8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play pit 2. Opponent plays pit 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play pit 3. Opponent plays pit 8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play pit 2. Opponent plays pit 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play pit 1 which leaves me with no pebbles left on my side, fulfilling the end game conditions, the opponent has not capture any pebble, so it get all of his pebbles, which gives me 48 pebbles, Hurray!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wouldn't call that outwitting my opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T17:14:53.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2011-09-07T19:58:50.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 5 players, we're able to win with 7 epidemics + Virulent/Mutation about half the time. In the last game we played, we were short one action and therefore lost by decking ourselves (lame!). Note that having 5 players isn't really an advantage -- it mainly just makes you more likely to deck yourself before you get 4 cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tend to do better if we draw a good balance between &lt;a href=&quot;http://i2.squidoocdn.com/resize/squidoo_images/590/draft_lens15578771module136731831photo_1290967762pandemic-board-game_1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;role types&lt;/a&gt;, where we have at least one of the three major categories: movement/coordination (e.g. Operation's Expert and Dispatcher), treatment (e.g. Medic and Containment Specialist), and cure-finding (e.g. Scientist and Researcher).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of all, though, you need a role in the movement/coordination category -- it's just so expensive to get around the board normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like to recommend variations I haven't tried, but you can probably reach 7 more easily if you give yourself more choice in starting roles. For example, during setup you could allow each player one chance to discard her role and draw again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T19:58:50.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4811" CreationDate="2011-09-07T20:51:06.413" Score="9" ViewCount="19900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rummy is one of my favourite card games - we used to play it endlessly when I was at uni using various different rulesets.  So I'm now trying to teach my children the basics of Rummy, as they love playing [children's] card games, but being 5 and 7 they are a bit young to fully comprehend matching runs in the same suite (though matching the same numbers is fine).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came across some basic rules for a children's version of rummy on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rummy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; (described as &quot;Children's Rummy&quot; or &quot;Ruckus&quot;), but the rules there are not entirely clear (and Ruckus itself uses its own set of cards, so that's not too helpful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone clarify some basic rules for a children's version of rummy, or have any other ideas about simplified rules for children to learn rummy [EDIT: using a standard deck of cards ideally]?  (I'm talking basic rummy here, not Gin rummy or other variants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia describes the &quot;children's rummy&quot; rules thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Children's Rummy or Ruckus is played by young children; each player is dealt 7 cards. Players immediately put down all cards of the same value (example, two 6's or three Kings) face up. If another person has a card of that value, they can put it down on the pile and take the pile to their part of the table. All players do this at the same time. Once all play has stopped, the dealer hands out new cards, and the pile building and taking is repeated until all cards have been dealt. The player with the most cards in piles at the end wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastEditorUserId="1704" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T16:00:09.300" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T14:18:38.567" Title="Children's version of Rummy?" Tags="|rummy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2011-09-07T21:02:22.573" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;We play with six epidemics most of the time and win about half our games, which is a good ratio for us.  My husband and I play a lot of two-player games, but we also play with three and four players and use six epidemics unless we have beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use a house rule of dealing two roles per player and letting the players choose.  Discussion is permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to playing with six epidemics, in my experience, is to be ruthless in not wasting actions.  Yes, that isolated city with three cubes will have an outbreak soon; absorb it if you've got spare capacity so you can focus on getting the cards together for a cure or attacking bigger problems.  It can be tempting to say &quot;while I'm in the neighborhood anyway why don't I...?&quot;, but you should always look at whether there are more pressing demands first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-09-07T21:02:22.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4670" CreationDate="2011-09-08T21:57:57.043" Score="11" ViewCount="2624" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Pandemic call for shuffling the Player deck and distributing the initial cards to each player.  The remaining 50 or so cards are then seeded with epidemic cards by this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Divide the remaining Player cards into a number of piles according to how diﬃcult you’d like to make the game. Make the piles as equal in size as is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuﬄe an Epidemic card into each pile. Stack the piles on top of each other to form the Player Draw Pile. (If the piles aren’t exactly the same size, stack them so that the larger piles are above the smaller piles.) Put any excess Epidemic cards back into the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice this is the longest setup step for a game which already has a substantial setup phase.  Does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting this done faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-07-28T20:55:01.253" LastActivityDate="2022-07-28T20:55:01.253" Title="Best method for evenly distributing epidemic cards in Pandemic setup?" Tags="|pandemic|game-setup|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-09-08T23:36:43.160" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done this in the past, and it tends to work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly divide the piles into the # of Epidemics you want (just eyeball the piles, don't count).  Stick an Epidemic card at the bottom of each pile.  Stack the piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes each epidemic come up fairly predictably, which helps even out the randomness of the game, but since the piles themselves are rough, it doesn't make it exactly predictable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, it avoids the silliness of the occasional double-epidemic, which more often than not makes the game easier instead of harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-09-09T04:40:00.060" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T04:40:00.060" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4672" CreationDate="2011-09-09T09:54:57.270" Score="22" ViewCount="20308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read about the new mechanic in Innistrad, the upcoming MTG edition, called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/157a#1&quot;&gt;double-faced cards&lt;/a&gt;. These cards have two faces, and no standard Magic back. They have actual creatures on both sides. In the linked article they describe two options for handling those cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To put a double-faced card into your deck, you have two options: You&#xA;  can put your entire deck in opaque card sleeves, as many players&#xA;  already do, or you can use the checklist card provided in many&#xA;  Innistrad packs. If you're using checklist cards to represent any of&#xA;  the double-faced cards in your deck, you must use checklist cards to&#xA;  represent all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not happy with either of these options. As a card collector I want my cards nice and clean and I will definitely not remove them from their sleeve during actual play, which is required for the first option. Those cards would take damage really fast. So this option does not work for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative is using those checklist cards, but as far as I understand it, this requires me to keep the real cards on a separate pile. Every time I play a checklist card, I will search this pile and put the right card into play. Shouldn't be a problem if you are playing for fun at home or with people who know your deck well. But in a tournament situation, this will leak important information to my opponent. How many double-faced cards am I playing? How many of those are left? It is also very likely that my oppponent my get a glimpse at some of them while I search for a card in the pile, because double-faced cards are hard to hide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am considering additional cards to act as decoys. Lets say I only have 4 checklist cards in my deck but I bring 20 different double-faced cards for the exchange-pile. Would this be allowed in a tournament? Or are there better ways to handle that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:22:53.343" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:22:53.343" Title="How do I manage double-faced cards in Innistrad (MTG) tournament play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2011-09-09T10:52:49.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's been a lot of anger about double-faced cards online.  Obviously they're going to &quot;kind of, sort of&quot; work, but only in a really clunky and annoying way.  No one want to have to be constantly subjecting their cards to wear and tear by sleeving and resleeving them - and players with bad memories are going to keep forgetting what's written on the second face too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question, I cannot imagine there could be any possible objection to you keeping the number and nature of your DFCs secret.  I personally would probably want to invest in a deck box and keep the double-faced cards in there with your trades or casual decks.  Having any sort of visible &quot;exchange-pile&quot; (beyond your 15-card sideboard) when you sit down gives your opponent too much information: really, you don't want him knowing if you're playing double-faced cards at all, until you play one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you think playing in Constructed tournaments is going to be annoying, just wait until you consider the implications for Draft.  Curse you, Wizards!  You've gone too far this time! :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T10:52:49.900" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T13:49:04.247" Score="1" ViewCount="5662" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an embarrassing question to have to ask, but here goes.  Recently I've gotten a new Mac laptop which has a chess program on it.  I'm not a chess expert by any means: I can beat casual players most of the time, but I suspect I wouldn't stand a chance against anyone who was actually good at the game.  But it's becoming humiliating being utterly crushed by my computer every time!  I'm meant to be the boss of this relationship, but in our battle of wits I am utterly outclassed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously powerful modern computers have certain advantages over human beings when it comes to a game of pure analysis like chess; but I feel as though there must be some way I can up my game.  Are there any strategies I could adopt that would give me a chance of escaping defeat, or at least securing a draw?  Even if I can't win against my computer, I suspect that even attempting to get better at doing so will make me better aware of the weaknesses of my approach and thus a much less awful chess player.  Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different computers play chess at different levels. How can I find out how well my computer plays, and then beat that level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T13:28:47.637" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T13:28:47.637" Title="How Can I Identify How To Beat My Computer At Chess?" Tags="|chess|computers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2011-09-10T16:16:03.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:12:42.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We combine dealing and making the piles.  Deal a round of cards, deal a couple into each pile, iterate.  Then shuffle each pile with an epidemic.  Meanwhile, another player shuffles the infection deck and sets up the initial infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we're playing with new(ish) players we have the most-experienced players do the setup so the less-experienced have more time to study their initial cards and the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T14:12:42.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2011-09-09T14:57:19.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I am considering additional cards to act as decoys. Lets say I only have 4 checklist cards in my deck but I bring 20 different double-faced cards for the exchange-pile. Would this be allowed in a tournament? Or are there better ways to handle that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure you can bring as many token cards or those other promotional generic ad cards as you like. Rather than bring extra double-faced cards, I would just put a bunch of token cards on top of your pile of double-faced cards. Perhaps you'll have to show the cards to a judge before play, but I can't see how there would be a problem with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T14:57:19.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2011-09-09T15:48:08.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Computers are really good at spotting getting material in a few moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to look into strategy and plan longer than the computer can see.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1451" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T15:48:08.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2011-09-09T17:38:52.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few answers I can think of The easiest would be to run 2 simulators and plug the moves of one into the moves of the other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is to get good at chess.  I mean get sit in the park and beat the old russians playing for money good.  Most good players will tell you that they recognize strategies and implement predetermined counters.  Most of the game is about determining which strategy is being used and employing the proper counter.  Get a few books on chess and read them to get a good base of knowledge to start from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T17:38:52.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2011-09-09T19:15:43.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you have to find out what level your computer plays at. And then train to beat that level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Computers are very good at looking deep into &quot;branches&quot; of moves. That's where they have an advantage over humans, and that's why the best ones can beat Gary Kasparov.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Computers aren't quite as good at certain &quot;judgmental&quot; aspects of chess, like when to sacrifice a pawn for a positional advantage. They tend not to do as well in a middle game as in either the opening (when there are few pieces out) or the endgame (when there are few pieces left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need to get to the point where your &quot;branching&quot; reading is almost (but not quite) as good as your computers. Then you have to steer for a complicated middle game, where the computer's branching algorithm may break down, while your better judgment prevails. (That's what Kasparov tried to do.) As good as they are, it's fun to see a computer get confused when you throw a &quot;curve ball&quot; at them, in any application. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That should happen to your computer at &quot;some&quot; level of play. Hopefully it won't be too much higher than yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T19:15:43.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4673" CreationDate="2011-09-09T19:18:14.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no other option except to get better at chess, I believe. I have seen interviews with the grandmasters who have had experience playing against computers, and they have noticed certain patterns that differentiate a human from a computer player. One example I remember is that computers try to target uncovered valuable pieces, even if they are safely behind a line of pawns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, like in any activity, only the absolute top players can possibly benefit and exploit these differences, if at all. So until you are approaching grandmaster level, there is not much you can do except training, learn openings and their counters, training, and some more training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-09-09T19:18:14.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-09T22:40:01.850" Score="19" ViewCount="11573" Body="&lt;p&gt;My goal is to minimize the amount of time I have to spend, with a budget of about $40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm absolutely terrible at using scissors and glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T10:13:50.443" Title="What's the fastest way to print a card game prototype?" Tags="|game-design|playing-cards|game-accessories|prototyping|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-09-10T00:13:02.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several card printers online; you'll be running right near the quality bottom edge, after shipping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is to use business card sheets, or to print to 3x5 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T00:13:02.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-09-10T02:26:47.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also get playing-card sized sheets for inkjet printers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mcgpaper.com/playingcards.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the first one I turned up in a Google search - do some Google work and you can probably find more. Printing on your own printer on these is probably the quickest way to get something that's actually playing card sized. If you can live with off sizes, then go to your local office store and get inkjet printable business cards or 3x5 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T02:26:47.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4685" CreationDate="2011-09-10T11:59:00.923" Score="8" ViewCount="3164" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cities and Knights expansion to Settlers of Catan has two cards that have caused us a bit of disagreement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FC6NC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mining and Irrigation Progress cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the Mining Progress card for example.  It says &quot;...collect two ore for each mountain hex adjacent to one of your cities or settlements.&quot;  If I only have one settlement and one city and they are both adjacent to the same ore hex, should I collect two cards or four?  If you are to count mountain hex then it should be two, but if you are counting cities/settlements it should be four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same questions exists for the Irrigation Progress card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="171" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T14:07:57.990" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T14:07:57.990" Title="How many cards should be collected using the Mining Progress card?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4683" CreationDate="2011-09-10T13:10:39.457" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would count twice (so four ore) in your example if the rules would have stated &lt;code&gt;for each mountain hex adjacent to each of your cities or settlements&lt;/code&gt;, unfortunately it doesn't and you have to pick one of your cities or settlements to process the cards for, which one is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T13:10:39.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4683" CreationDate="2011-09-10T16:11:26.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You only collect two ore.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?CaK_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;4th edition cards&lt;/a&gt;(pg. 15) contain updated text which makes this clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may take two ore cards from the bank for each mountain hex which is adjacent to at least one of your cities or settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001HBJ3HW&quot;&gt;purchase an updated card deck&lt;/a&gt;.  I think this is all you need to update your set to the latest edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-09-10T16:11:26.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2011-09-11T11:45:47.667" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution would be to increase starting hand size.  The % of games that are decided by initial bad draws/mulligans is very high, especially when considering how much meticulous thought and planning deck building requires.  This is why having an 'auto-lose' from bad luck is frustrating to people, because most of the effort is acquiring cards and building the deck, and then they get to the 'actual game' and someone's fate in a match or tournament can (and will, given enough games) be completely sealed by luck of the draw.  Even the pros do not have that high of a win%(although still higher than everyone else by at least several %), what they do have is the patience and temperament to keep chugging along despite the bad beats that no one can avoid no matter how clever or skilled they at this card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only a very small number of competitive decks in standard at any given time, this is because deck options are extremely limited due to the incredibly high level of consistency needed.  This also makes competitive magic very expensive, as the need for consistency leads to only several % of the most powerful, efficient cards worth playing, and it also makes mana bases extremely expensive as every 'free' card that gives you more consistency will lead to more wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summation, Mulligan-ing well isn't just about hand analysis or deck building skill.  Avoiding the pitfalls of bad starting hands is more about having the small clump of cards that will actually give consistent, powerful results given that a deck size is pretty large and any one non-basic land can only make up 6.7% of the cards in the deck(note how powerful tutors of almost all kinds are, just because they let you bypass randomness for that single instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1797" LastEditorUserId="1797" LastEditDate="2011-09-11T11:51:38.780" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T11:51:38.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4690" CreationDate="2011-09-11T11:59:13.633" Score="9" ViewCount="598" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=34465&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aquamoeba&lt;/a&gt; beat Glory Seeker if the Aquamoeba owner discards one or more cards during the fight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0Syr8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;aquamoeba&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard a card from your hand: switch Aquamoeba's power and toughness until end of turn. 1/3 creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qh9R9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glory seeker&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2/2 creature - human soldier&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1799" OwnerDisplayName="pinouchon" LastEditorUserId="25333" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T14:31:42.770" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T14:31:42.770" Title="Can Aquamoeba beat Glory Seeker with discards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2011-09-11T12:27:24.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup it can. Card abilities can be activated like instants - therefore can be activated at &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; time of play. Although both creature would die because it does not have first strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1798" OwnerDisplayName="Deveaux" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T12:33:17.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2011-09-11T12:48:14.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should take the time to read up on how &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essentialmagic.com/articles/TheStack.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3265/damage-on-the-stack&quot;&gt;Stack&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/473/magic-the-gathering-stack&quot;&gt;works.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless stated otherwise on the card, all activated abilities can be played at anytime, identical to an instant. This means you can activate Aquamoeba's ability during combat, and due to the way the Stack works Aquamoeba's ability will take effect &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; combat damage is dealt. Therefore using Aquamoeba's ability will result in both itself &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; Glory Seeker dying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1157" LastEditorUserId="1157" LastEditDate="2019-08-16T11:54:11.010" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T11:54:11.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4687" CreationDate="2011-09-11T15:52:29.917" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;used to be&lt;/em&gt; the case that you could do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers and blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Aquamoeba's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put 3 combat damage on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Aquamoeba's ability again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would cause the Aquamoeba to have 3 power when damage was assigned but have 3 toughness when damage was resolved, killing the 2/2 but leaving the Aquamoeba alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, changes to the combat rules for &lt;em&gt;Magic 2010&lt;/em&gt; were made that specifically prevented this. Now damage does not use the stack and is assigned and applied in one step, so the Aquamoeba can be either 1/3 at the time (and both survive) or 3/1 at the time (and both die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T15:52:29.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-09-11T16:15:04.237" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get some card sleeves and card-stock. Write/print whatever you need to on the card-stock and cut it down to size. After you sleeve it they will all be shuffle-able and readable, just like normal cards. Admittedly this isn't good for much beyond prototype testing, but it's definitely fast and cheap. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T16:15:04.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4693" CreationDate="2011-09-11T18:48:58.060" Score="17" ViewCount="18672" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of Mana-Burn is that if you have any left over mana in your mana-pool at the end of your turn, you loose that many life. But why is this rule necessary? The only time I see it come into play is when you have cards that give you multiple mana like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Black%20Lotus&quot;&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/a&gt;, and isn't wasted mana penalty enough? I can't think of many times when I would purposely want to have extra mana left over in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When and how does mana burn usually happen? Why was the rule added? How would Magic be different without it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-05-10T19:55:12.440" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:10:40.487" Title="Why does Mana-Burn exist in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2011-09-11T19:52:58.383" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana burn has been removed from the game &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in the magic 2010 rules update&lt;/a&gt;. From the comprehensive rules glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana Burn (Obsolete)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older versions of the rules stated that unspent mana caused a player to lose life; this was called &amp;quot;mana burn.&amp;quot; That rule no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the rule was still in effect, you lost all unspent mana in your mana pool at the end of each step and phase (not turn), and you lost life equal to the amount of mana lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the reason why it was there: As you said, it was meant to punish anyone who didn't manage his or her mana well. Also, there were a few cards that had the mana Burn rule in mind. They would add Mana to a player's pool during on of his/her game phases. Some would reward you for being tapped out or punish the opponent for not being tapped out, mostly in the Prophecy edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was it removed? As you noted as well, it was practically irrelevant a rule as it only very rarely happened, and when it happened, it confused most players about the details of how it worked exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T16:10:40.487" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:10:40.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2011-09-11T23:12:05.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wargamesunlimited.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wargamesunlimited.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've used this for a number of our games&#xA;Nice rules set and very customizable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1803" LastActivityDate="2011-09-11T23:12:05.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4697" CreationDate="2011-09-12T02:18:40.793" Score="1" ViewCount="668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find a game that I played a while ago with some friends, and not having much luck with Amazon/Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player got a set of stones, and you were supposed to stack the stones in a tower according to the image on a card. I think there were different colored stones that were supposed to be used in different places in the tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the name of this, or a similar game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1804" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T11:49:15.770" Title="stone stacking game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2011-09-12T11:48:12.340" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer, is &amp;quot;it doesn't happen&amp;quot;, as Hackworth has already correctly noted.  MaRo wrote a good article about why it was removed, which you can read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/44&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was it in the game in the first place?  Well, it does make a difference.  Check out cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Drain&quot;&gt;Mana Drain&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eladamri%27s%20Vineyard&quot;&gt;Eladamri&amp;#39;s Vineyard&lt;/a&gt;.  Mana Drain is less powerful (though only marginally - it's still a beating) with mana burn; without mana burn, it now has no downside over &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; whatsoever.  Eladamri's Vineyard is considerably less good than it was - the fun in the old days was giving a non-green deck mana it would have trouble using, hopefully causing burn.  Now the card is much more symmetrical, with very little downside even for a nongreen opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also look at spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Branded%20Brawlers&quot;&gt;Branded Brawlers&lt;/a&gt;, which &amp;quot;can't block if you control an untapped land&amp;quot;.  At the time Prophecy was an interesting set which rewarded you for mana management and tapping out every turn.  Now it's a lot easier to tap out - it doesn't cost you life if you don't have something to do with your mana!  Prophecy as a set is full of cards which look pretty pointless these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, it was a pretty fiddly rule, which almost never had a significant impact on gameplay, and wasn't really worth the extra bookkeeping it involved.  Most Magic players I think don't really miss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-10T12:08:41.767" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T12:08:41.767" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4695" CreationDate="2011-09-12T11:49:15.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, I own this game!  It's called &lt;strong&gt;Rukshuk&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24028/rukshuk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T11:49:15.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-09-12T14:30:02.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you already have the following resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A computer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A decent color printer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the thing to do is to use a decent software imaging program to create your own cards and backs and fronts.  A really good open source software tool is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gimp.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GIMP&lt;/a&gt;.  Get good at using the image software, particularly understanding layers and work out how to run the same piece of card through your printer so you get fronts and backs to line up (I convert GIMP images to pngs and print from MSPaint, which is good for centering and lining up the images).  So far, we have spent 0$ (but have spent some time downloading and learning how to use the software).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still have 40$ to spend on blank card, either finishing spray or card sleeves and buy a cheap guillotine.  The most time you are going to spend on prototyping cards (especially if you have a significant number) is the hours of using scissors cutting out cards (which you say you are no good at) and a guillotine will save you many hours and be much more accurate.  You could use a craft knife but the guillotine is faster and more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T14:30:02.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4700" CreationDate="2011-09-12T14:39:08.647" Score="5" ViewCount="3706" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards allow you to add counters, or move counters, to other cards.  Would you be allowed to do this onto a card that doesn't actually use any counters at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&#xA;Would &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EpFcv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coretapper&lt;/a&gt; be allowed to put a charge counter on itself?  What about putting one on something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZ32u.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yotian Soldier&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that a Charge Counter is not a +1/+1 counter, however having them around can be useful for things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/scans/en/mi/229.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Conduit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T15:05:23.827" Title="Magic: The Gathering - Can Charge Counters be put on cards that don't &quot;use&quot; counters themselves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4699" CreationDate="2011-09-12T15:05:23.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can put Charge Counters anywhere that the ability/spell/whatever allows. For example, Coretapper's ability is limited to &quot;target artifact&quot;, so any artifact it can target is fine. This sort of thing is exactly what Power Conduit is designed to take advantage of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T15:05:23.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4702" CreationDate="2011-09-12T19:22:29.180" Score="10" ViewCount="4217" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am playing a deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Mountain&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Mountain&lt;/a&gt;s, does a creature with Mountainwalk become unblockable or do they require Snow-Covered Mountainwalk  (where &amp;quot;mountain&amp;quot; is interchangeable with plains, islands, swamps, forests and mountains)?  Conversely, if I had a creature with Snow-Covered Mountainwalk, is it unblockable if an opponent has only regular Mountains in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lack the experience with the Comprehensive Rules to be able to conclusively go one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12a Landwalk is a generic term that appears within an object’s rules text as&#xA;“[type]walk,” where [type] is usually a subtype (as in “islandwalk”), but can be&#xA;the card type land, any land type, any supertype, or any combination thereof (as&#xA;in “snow swampwalk” or “legendary landwalk”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12b Landwalk is an evasion ability. A creature with landwalk is unblockable&#xA;as long as the defending player controls at least one land with the specified&#xA;subtype and/or supertype. (See rule 509, “Declare Blockers Step.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the question boils down to this: is &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot; a supertype of &amp;quot;Snow-Covered Mountain&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-05-13T03:12:37.823" LastActivityDate="2012-05-13T03:12:37.823" Title="Does &quot;Mountainwalk&quot; imply &quot;Snow-Covered Mountainwalk&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4701" CreationDate="2011-09-12T20:03:49.580" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Snow-covered is a land supertype, and mountain is a subtype, a snow-covered mountain is also a mountain and thus plain vanilla mountainwalk applies. The land subtypes are specified in rule 204.3h&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;204.3h Lands have their own unique set of subtypes; these subtypes are called land types. The land types are Desert, Forest, Island, Lair, Locus, Mine, Mountain, Plains, Power-Plant, Swamp, Tower, and Urza's.&#xA;            Of that list, Forest, Island, Mountain, Plains, and Swamp are the basic land types. See rule 305.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you are correct about the converse. A creature with Snow-covered mountainwalk would be able to be blocked if you had a mountain but no snow-covered mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-09-12T20:11:12.037" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T20:11:12.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5332" CreationDate="2011-09-12T21:33:50.700" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text for the Move + Activate action for the Yellow Squad reads,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your Space Marines may move to any position in the formation (instead of just to adjacent positions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not sure whether to shift the formation after moving the space marine or to swap positions with the space marine that already holds the target position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the rules explain the normal movement of space maring into adjacent positions, the text reads,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To move a Space Marine to an adjacent position, he simply picks up the Space Marine card, and switches its position with any adjacent Space Marine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on that text in the rule book, I've been making the assumption that swapping positions is also what was intended for the Yellow Squad. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T17:22:41.563" Title="Does the Yellow Squad's Move + Activate card swap places with a space marine or move and then shift the formation?" Tags="|death-angel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4701" CreationDate="2011-09-12T22:30:46.640" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can Landwalk through what is covered in 702.13c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.13c A creature with landwalk is unblockable as long as the defending player controls at least one land with the specified subtype (as in &quot;islandwalk&quot;), with the specified supertype (as in &quot;legendary landwalk&quot;), without the specified supertype (as in &quot;nonbasic landwalk&quot;), or with both the specified supertype and the specified subtype (as in &quot;snow swampwalk&quot;). (See rule 509, &quot;Declare Blockers Step.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is equivalent to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A creature with landwalk is unblockable as long as the defending player controls at least one land that has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;the specified subtype (as in &quot;islandwalk&quot;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OR the specified supertype (as in &quot;legendary landwalk&quot;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OR does not have the specified supertype (as in &quot;nonbasic landwalk&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OR with both the specified supertype and the specified subtype (as in &quot;snow swampwalk&quot;) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example a creature with Mountainwalk has evasion due to a Snow Mountain due to condition (1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second example is not viable as a creature with Snow Mountainwalk can only evade through a Snow Mountain due to condition (4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T22:30:46.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-09-12T22:33:33.583" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two different things I do for prototype cards.  The first is just to use scraps of paper and sleeves, as outlined in the answer above (which I upvoted) - it's cheap, easy to swap in cards and stops you from over-investing time into half-baked ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I have confidence in a design enough to bring it to outside play groups, I usually use stickers on existing cards.  Piles of Magic cards are super cheap (commons are essentially free, just ask around gaming groups), and you can use several different labels to print out and stick to them.  If you need a couple different backs, you can use different types of dead CCG commons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avery makes several different stickers, and there are clones of them that are even cheaper, along with pretty good templates. I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Products/Name-Badges/Name-Badges/Self-Adhesive-Removable-Name-Badge-Labels-PVC-Free_05395.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the White Adhesive Name Badges&lt;/a&gt; in the past as the biggest sticker I can fit on a card. They're 2-1/3&quot; by 3-3/8&quot;, which is just a bit smaller than a standard poker card (2.5&quot; x 3.5&quot;). Those are great if you have a lot of information. I used to use the 3 1/2&quot; floppy labels for most of my cards, as they had enough room to fit a fair bit of info while being still fairly cheap on a per-label basis, but Avery appears to have discontinued those.  I still have a stockpile, but that doesn't help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In searching a bit, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Products/Labels/Identification-Labels/Permanent-Multipurpose-Labels_06572.htm?N=4294967289%204294965453&amp;amp;Ns=Rank%7C0%7C%7CProduct%20Number%7C1&amp;amp;refchannel=593759baa4c2a110VgnVCM1000002118140aRCRD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; look to be the same size as those old labels, so that might work.  The nice thing about this method is that it doesn't require any cutting, just sticking, and the cards are very durable and shuffleable, being based on CCG stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="742" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T18:30:17.083" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T18:30:17.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4667" CreationDate="2011-09-12T23:04:53.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/42138/sequence-rummy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sequence Rummy&lt;/a&gt;&quot; when I was a kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my parents even still have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2011-09-12T23:04:53.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-13T01:44:52.957" Score="16" ViewCount="1713" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played several games of Seven Wonders now, and I'm still figuring out a lot of the strategy. I've learned that every card has its place and advantages, but the one group of cards that seems most useless is the blue cards in age 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that the blue cards in Age 1 are bad, it's just that the other alternatives seem better. If you can take almost any brown, gray, or yellow card instead it seems like it's almost always a good idea to do so because the will help you get more points for every single turn in the future instead of just being worth 2 or 3 at the end of the game. If I can take a green card instead of a blue I'll usually do it unless I'm really short on money and have to pay my last coins for it. I'll also usually prefer red over blue in the first round because they usually give you close to the same point value at the end of the round as well as help you win future wars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't need the extra 3 coins from discarding or are planning on using them to get some Age 2 blue cards I can see them being valuable. But won't you usually be able to use the money to get something much better? And isn't it usually a better idea to focus on getting resources so you won't need to use the free-construction benefit? When is it a good idea to pick the Civilian Structures in the first Age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T02:02:35.020" Title="When is it advisable to take Blue cards in the first age in Seven Wonders?" Tags="|openings|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4707" CreationDate="2011-09-13T02:23:43.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that it is pretty rare for taking these to be right, although I have to say I would usually prefer taking one to taking 3 bucks unless I know I will have money issues.  There are a few circumstances, however, when it makes some sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you start with a rock resource because of your wonder, or happen to have built a rock resource, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; are not planning to build more rock, consider the 3VP blue with an upgrade path to the 2nd round blue that costs 3 rock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going science-heavy, planning on using upgrades more than resources, taking one of the upgrade-able blues may give you more options in the 2nd age.  For example, if you are heavily buying manufactured goods and not buying basic resources, being able to upgrade to  (basic-resource-heavy) blues may help.  Of course, you only buy these as a fallback plan, but it is a case where you could prefer them to resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are using a pure yellow card strategy and are not buying resources - then you'd prefer a blue to a resource.  Early, while you are still poor, play a free blue rather than spending 2 bucks on a resource from your neighbor, as you will need that cash later when you can spend it more efficiently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You see that you can force your neighbor to build resources (or do badly in the game) because both you and her other neighbor are going resource-lite.  Then build a blue (helpfully passing her the resources), and make sure to build a trading post pointing in her direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastEditorUserId="172" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T02:28:46.767" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T02:28:46.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4709" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-13T09:16:07.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;7 Wonders is a card based civilization development game.   It uses a card-drafting technic where once per turn, each player selects a card to play from their hand then passes the remaining cards to the player on their left. The game is played from three different decks representing three different ages.  Some cards have immediate effects, while others provide bonuses or upgrades later in the game  Players reveal their cards simultaneously, paying resources if needed or collecting resources or interacting with other players in various ways.  Once all three decks have been played, players tally their scores in different developed areas (civil, scientific, commercial). The player with the most points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="1783" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T16:04:30.633" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T16:04:30.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4710" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-13T09:16:07.000" Score="0" Body="7 Wonders is a card based civilization development game. The game is played from three different decks representing three different ages.  Players reveal their cards simultaneously, paying resources if needed or collecting resources or interacting with other players in various ways.  Once all three decks have been played, players tally their scores in different developed areas (civil, scientific, commercial). The player with the most points wins." OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="1783" LastEditDate="2011-09-13T16:13:16.753" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T16:13:16.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4707" CreationDate="2011-09-13T09:33:22.243" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good question to ask yourself here: does everyone in my playgroup have the same distaste for blue cards that I feel?  If so, if they're predisposed to ignore them in favour of &quot;cooler&quot; cards, you could easily make a killing by snapping them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will agree that something like the Pawnshop (3 victory points, that's it), doesn't seem like an exciting card, though it could make for a perfectly acceptable last or second-to-last pick: better than nothing right?  But stuff like the Altar or Theater, which are the first stages in the Altar-Temple-Pantheon and the Theater-Statue-Gardens chain, may be deceptively good.  2 victory points for a pick doesn't seem great.  12 or 11 points (respectively) for 3 picks is slightly better.  Are you playing a resource-light game where something like the Pantheon will be way out of your reach in Age III?  Then Altar could prove a much better pick for you than some other random nonsense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that every time you pick a resource, it costs you a pick.  Is picking up 3 resources better value for money than getting 12 easy points from the Altar, Temple and Pantheon chain?  You're already 12 points down, pick for pick, due to your concentration on resources, so you'd better hope you can make plenty of profit out of spending them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't want to praise the blue cards too highly: resources are the backbone of the game and you definitely don't want to end up in a situation where you have nothing to do in the final Age apart from discarding for coins!  But an experienced player who understands the chains, and which early picks can get you valuable later picks for free, can definitely make a tidy profit.  Just make sure the players with all the resources don't buy &quot;your&quot; upgrades out from under you to screw you over!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T09:33:22.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2011-09-13T10:59:06.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adopting a 'cramped' positions has some things in favor for it, usually, you will get positions you are more likely familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quote from David Bronstein's Zurich 1953 book (P.19)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The text is thought to give Black a cramped game, but if a player likes precisely that sort of &quot;cramped game&quot;, then he will get better results with it than with a &quot;freer&quot; game.  Generally speaking, such evaluations, even though they may sway the opinions of the theoreticians, have far less of an influence on practical tournament games than is commonly supposed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1808" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T10:59:06.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-13T11:54:12.467" Score="16" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fJBD2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;star trek chess pic&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I saw the Star Trek chess game in a serial and looked it up &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-dimensional_chess&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. It exists as a real game, but it seems it's not too popular, too tricky, too unwieldy to carry and play everywhere, and the rules are too complex (?). There seem also to be no world-wide championships or other questions on boardgames.SE ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a good scientific site/report (maybe a topic in neuroscience experiments) describing different rule sets for e.g. 3D-chess which covers a bit the theory how in general 2D games differ from 3D games? Differences might include more possible game moves, the role of spatial perception (afaik men and women have different strong faculties here - so maybe 3D games are not gender-neutral and less popular besides hardly portable/digital playable?), or mappings of well-known game strategies from 2D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: My first question here. I have no idea if this question is too open, so please reformulate if so. I'm more asking for some good links shedding some light on the general differences in game theory/structure between 2D and 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1569" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T23:50:03.930" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T00:37:48.480" Title="Tri-dimensional board games: How does the additional dimension extend possible player requirements &amp; game structure?" Tags="|game-design|game-development|3d-chess|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4715" CreationDate="2011-09-13T13:41:33.443" Score="2" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror-Mad%20Phantasm&quot;&gt;Mirror-Mad Phantasm&lt;/a&gt; in combat against a creature that does at least 1 damage, is it possible to activate its ability &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; combat damage has been applied but &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the Phantasm enters the graveyard? I'd really like to do 5 damage and return to the battlefield unscathed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T19:51:35.443" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T19:51:35.443" Title="Can the Mirror-Mad Phantasm rescue itself?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4714" CreationDate="2011-09-13T13:50:41.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately that's quite against the law!  Even the laws of the spirit world...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the timings work in Magic are basically as follows: after you announce the beginning of combat, both players have a chance to play spells and effects.  After attackers are declared, both players have a chance to play spells and effects; after blockers are declared, both players have a chance to play spells and effects.  Once all of that is finished with, we go directly to combat damage.  There is no window of opportunity for the Phantasm to activate its ability before it deals and receives combat damage and goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I say that... there is &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; way!  If you can manage to give the Mirror-Mad Phantasm first strike, it will deal its 5 damage in the first strike combat damage phase, and then there will be a chance for you to activate its ability before the normal combat damage step.  It's probably not what you wanted to hear, but that's the only way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you getting as excited for Innistrad as I am?  I can't remember the last time a Magic set had so much sheer flavour about it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T13:50:41.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4713" CreationDate="2011-09-13T17:45:42.777" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I've not seen serious work on it... I have played trek-style 3d chess&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the pawn. In 2d, it has one move option. in 3d, given the start locations, it has 2, sometime 3, options Twice that many &quot;covered&quot; squares it can attack to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3D has several effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;increasing piece movement options&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different board shape reduces flat move options for many pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;perception of good versus bad moves is more difficult&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;occasional adjustment of board results in different dynamic (small boards are mobile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this al means a direct comparison is difficult as the needed strategies change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3D tic tac toe, however, merely gets more move options - the same strategies apply.&#xA; So it varies by how the 3D is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-09-13T17:45:42.777" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2011-09-13T18:57:42.927" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Statistically, the difference is in the &lt;strong&gt;variance&lt;/strong&gt; of how much money will be in your hand. Assuming no other cards swaying you one way or another (and no Platinum), as other answers have pointed out, regardless of whether you upgrade Copper to Silver or Silver to Gold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the total money in your deck is increased by 1&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the number of treasure cards in your deck is unchanged&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;therefore the average amount of money you'll have in your hand is the same in both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;strong&gt;variance&lt;/strong&gt; of your hands will be different. If you upgrade all your coppers to silvers, the money you draw in hand will be much more consistent than if you upgrade all the way to gold when possible. Keeping some coppers in your deck increases the chances that you won't draw any higher-value treasures -- and increases the chances that you'll draw 2 or 3 golds at once. If all your treasures are silvers, you'll only draw silvers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It boils down to what &lt;strong&gt;distribution&lt;/strong&gt; of hand values you want. If you want consistent 3-4-5 hands, do copper to silver first, but if you're okay with some 2 hands to also get more 5-6-7-8 hands, go all the way to gold. I'm sure we can all imagine card pools where you'd want to go one way or the other. If you're trying to get a Province or other expensive card (Witch, Goons...) ASAP, go for Golds. If there's 4-cost cards you want to buy several of (maybe Caravan, Bridge, etc.), go for Silvers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the realm of unlikely but possible, if you go to Gold first, you run a risk of drawing your Mine with a Gold or two, but no Copper or Silver to trash, but this is a pretty small risk, and you probably won't be unhappy with nothing but Gold in hand anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="23876" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T12:38:08.247" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T12:38:08.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4721" CreationDate="2011-09-13T22:01:40.597" Score="9" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;As France, for instance, it's fairly easy to defend against an extended &quot;frontal&quot; attack in the north by England and Germany, by covering the connected zones, Burgundy, Picardy, and Brest. Fortunately I've never had to do this, but it seems harder to defend against a simultaneous attack by England, aimed at Brest, and Italy, aimed at Marseilles, on a northwest to southeast axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Russia, it's relatively easy to defend against a two power attack from the west or southwest, say by Austria-Hungary, allied with either Germany or Turkey. That's because Sevastopol, the Ukraine, and Warsaw form a natural defense line. The one to fear seems to be England and Turkey to both the north and south. Then Russia is split in two directions, and easy game if one of the Germanic countries becomes a third attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had the experience of being victimized by &quot;divergent&quot; attacks at both ends of the Empire? Or more to the point, gone out of their way to create these kinds of problems for their opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T15:17:35.933" Title="Are &quot;Diagonal&quot; Attacks More Deadly in Diplomacy?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4737" CreationDate="2011-09-14T09:55:37.370" Score="11" ViewCount="39916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Resistance for the first time last night, and it was great fun, but the consensus at the table was that the resistance can only beat the spies given a healthy dose of luck.  I played a resistance member both times, and won one and lose one game.  But even after two games I have no idea how to act in an effective manner liable to uncover the spies and result in probable resistance victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the first round of the first game: as resistance leader for the round I had no idea who was loyal, so I chose two players at random to go on the mission.  The prevailing opinion was that the first mission always succeeds, because no spy will ever tip their hand that early.  As such, I can't see any way of getting any useful information out of mission one.  Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep this question from being overly general: let's take the situation I found myself in last night.  A seven player game, with four resistance members and three spies.  Assuming that all the players are acting rationally and the spies are not being too devious about presenting themselves as loyal resistance men, what strategies can the resistance adopt or what signs can they look out for from the spies to give them a solid chance of victory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T05:54:06.987" Title="Optimal (Or Just Effective) Strategy For The Resistance?" Tags="|tactics|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8377" CreationDate="2011-09-14T10:58:13.447" Score="8" ViewCount="3068" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got to play with the Seven Wonders Leaders expansion for the first time last night, and it certainly adds an extra dimension to the game.  I was able to assemble a lethal combo of Xenophon (2 extra coins every time I built a commercial structure), Hatshepsut (1 coin back for each neighbour I bought resources from each turn) and Midas (+1 victory point per 3 coins at end of game) to finish with 38 coins in my coffers, and a narrow 73-72 point win over the guy who'd amassed 52 points of science alone (gulp)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this was Agricola or Race for the Galaxy there would be acres of statistics out there on which leaders are likely to give the biggest boost in the hands of a skilled player.  So I was wondering, if anyone else has drafted the Leaders, which cards should one be looking out for as likely to put your game into overdrive?  Are there any leader combos that are potentially broken or unfair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T19:55:11.180" Title="Which Seven Wonders Leaders Should I Be Hoping To Recruit?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4718" CreationDate="2011-09-14T13:36:36.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's definitely the case that fighting a two-front war is more than twice as hard as fighting on one front.  Besides the obvious reason, that you need twice as many units, there's the support-cut effect too.  Most empires, especially early, aren't 3 provinces wide, so even an unsupported attack on one side can strip a unit on the other side of the support it needed to hold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One place this is borne out is in the aggregate results of Russia.  Russia has the highest solo rate of any power, &lt;strong&gt;and the second highest elimination rate&lt;/strong&gt;.  If Russia can't turn their initial two-front (North and South) exposure into a one-front war, they're done for in a blink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T13:36:36.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2011-09-14T18:04:55.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remembered this question when I finally found my bookmark:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/Card/Multi-purpose-Cards-Rectangle-394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/Card/Multi-purpose-Cards-Rectangle-394&lt;/a&gt; .  Artscow will print custom one side (with all the backs being unform) and custom both sides (every card unique).  If you google them you can find discussions on art prep and find example sets that others have made public.  I think artscow also keeps a database of designs that anyone can have printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="683" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T18:04:55.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4726" CreationDate="2011-09-14T18:11:56.307" Score="9" ViewCount="14009" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50233&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cage of Hands&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=22942&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shackles&lt;/a&gt; or another card in my graveyard that has an activated ability that returns the card to its owner hand, but doesn't explicitly mention that it can be played from the graveyard. Can I play its activated ability while it's in my graveyard, or only while it's on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0ROqQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cage of Hands&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ejSHq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shackles&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T17:41:44.997" Title="Can I activate an ability on a card in my graveyard that returns its to my hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2011-09-14T18:22:49.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, and no. Unless explicitly stated otherwise, you can activate abilities on a card only when it's on the battlefield or on the effect it has created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=44398&quot;&gt;Eternal Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184542&quot;&gt;Elvish Spirit Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226565&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-09-14T18:44:12.463" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T18:44:12.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3784" CreationDate="2011-09-14T21:49:52.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic tournaments are in the process of changing from using DCI Rating to &quot;Planeswalker Points&quot;, which strongly rewards players for simply playing Magic (with DCI rating, NOT playing was sometimes best), while still rewarding skill/winning, although to a much lesser extent. You can read all about the change &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/159b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in this article on the Magic the Gathering website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In spite of the change, the answer still stands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Yes, Playing in Friday Night Magic events earns you Planeswalker Points.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/PlaneswalkerPoints/Information#CompetitiveEvents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Planeswalker Points website&lt;/a&gt; says that FNM is a 3x multiplier on the points you earn. Event multipliers range from 1 to 12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Here are examples of the different event multipliers available at events:&#xA;&#xA; 1x: Sanctioned Magic tournaments, Prerelease events, Launch Parties&#xA; 2x: Game day events, WPN Premium Qualifiers&#xA; 3x: Friday Night Magic, Grand Prix Trials, WPN Premium Tournaments&#xA; 5x: Pro Tour Qualifiers, National Qualifiers&#xA; 8x: Grand Prix, National Championships&#xA;12x: Pro Tour *, World Championship&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T21:49:52.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4723" CreationDate="2011-09-14T23:08:25.330" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hackworth has it right, but I love me some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6a to 112.6n then specify the exceptions to this rule, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6k An ability whose cost or effect specifies that it moves the object it's on out of a particular zone functions only in that zone, unless that ability's trigger condition, or a previous part of that ability's cost or effect, specifies that the object is put into that zone.&#xA;  Example: Necrosavant says &quot;{3}{B}{B}, Sacrifice a creature: Return Necrosavant from your graveyard to the battlefield. Activate this ability only during your upkeep.&quot; A player may activate this ability only if Necrosavant is in his or her graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-09-14T23:08:25.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2011-09-15T03:12:22.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have really been enjoying this game; we play it a lot at work over lunch. I haven't kept track, but I'm pretty sure the victories are roughly evenly split. You are correct that in a game with fewer than 8 players, the first mission almost always goes to the Resistance because the Spies aren't willing to risk being found out. This isn't an issue with 8+ players, because the first mission is three people and it's not so dangerous for the spies to sabotage then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 7-player game isn't really that hard for the Resistance to win. As we've said, they can generally count on winning the 1st mission. They can also usually count on winning the 4th mission, since the Spies need two votes to fail that mission. So they only need to win one of the remaining three missions. The 5th mission is difficult to win, because the Resistance must correctly pick every Resistance member. However, the 2nd and 3rd missions are doable. Generally if it gets to the 5th mission, the Spies will win, unless the Resistance players have figured everyone out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important thing to remember is that you often gain more information from the team votes than from the mission votes. It's generally very telling when someone votes against a mission team. A simple strategy that often works well is to simply repeat successful (for the Resistance) teams. For example, if the Resistance wins the 2nd mission, simply repeat the same three people for the 3rd mission. It's possible there was a Spy in the group, but it's unlikely they would have let the Resistance get a 2nd victory so early (assuming they won the 1st). Anyone that votes against this repeat team is likely a Spy. If the leader refuses to repeat the same team, they are likely a Spy. You can use the same strategy with the 4th mission. If the Resistance won the 3rd mission, simply repeat the same three people plus one more. Since the Spies will need two fail votes, if the previous three were all Resistance they will win again. Obviously, the Spies will vote against this (unless there was a Spy in the previous group). So if the Resistance wins either the 2nd or 3rd mission, just make sure the same three people are on the next team. If the Resistance doesn't win either the 2nd or 3rd they are in trouble, because even if they win the 4th, the 5th will be tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind that in the early part of the game only the Spies have a good reason to vote against a team. A Resistance player would only vote against the 1st team if they were playing a hunch or trying to get the leadership to move closer to them. Likewise, assuming the 1st mission goes to the Resistance and the same two people are proposed for the 2nd mission, only a Spy would generally have cause to vote against the team as the Resistance players don't have much to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T03:30:18.920" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T03:30:18.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4772" CreationDate="2011-09-15T04:23:38.330" Score="4" ViewCount="3254" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most trick-taking card games when you have a strong hand (as the bidder should in sheepshead) it's good to lead with high cards to retain control. However, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheepshead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sheepshead&lt;/a&gt; players tend to hold on to the point-cards until they know who the partner is -- and they definitely won't drop points on tricks the bidder is clearly taking -- so I usually try to deliberately lose control, without making it too easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to play below the 10 of diamonds, because then the Ace or 10 of diamonds will often be played and I won't get them. Similarly, I don't like leading low non-trump. I suppose if I had an Ace as my only card in a suit I might lead it, or if I've put an Ace or 10 down in a suit I might lead a lower card in it, but generally I lean toward jacks -- as low of jacks as possible. I hope this will flush out some trump yet discourage anyone else from taking points. What do you think is a good first lead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-24T01:02:14.077" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T02:08:21.237" Title="Good first leads in sheepshead" Tags="|openings|sheepshead|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2011-09-15T06:11:39.670" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;lol.well..what you could do is buy double cards for cards in deck and sheath the cards one on each side...keep the flip side in a different sheathed pile..it would work well..but ummm....that could get expensive...seems best bet though..probably what i will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1819" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T06:11:39.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:28:21.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The approach that I'm going to use initially is to protect the cards in sleeves, to set them in a side pile and to use the checklists in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than mark my checklists, I'm going to put small stickers on the plastic slip (yes 2 covers for the cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For disguising my quantity of double faced cards, I am going to pad my pile with unmarked checklists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's probably not a perfect solution, but should avoid any issues of being accused of improperly substituting cards into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:28:21.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4732" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:30:59.323" Score="6" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201263&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maze of Ith&lt;/a&gt; from &quot;The Dark&quot; series in fact a C1 common card as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/generic/cardlists/The_Dark_Checklist.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this checklist&lt;/a&gt; states?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm posing this question in this manner to avoid phrasing it &quot;why the heck is it a $20 card if it's so common&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T14:14:38.490" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T14:14:38.490" Title="Is Maze of Ith actually a common card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4731" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:46:12.620" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What checklist states that? When in doubt, always check the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; site. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201263&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maze of Ith&lt;/a&gt; is an Uncommon in &lt;em&gt;The Dark&lt;/em&gt;, and a Rare in &lt;em&gt;Masters Edition IV&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by the way, the price tag might have more to do with the fact that it's an old, not-common, and pretty good card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comments and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Dark_(Magic:_The_Gathering)#Rarity_breakdown&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki article on The Dark&lt;/a&gt; sheds some light on the matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarity breakdown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dark cards come in two rarities, common and uncommon. Of the uncommon cards 43 are U2, meaning that they appear twice on the uncommon print sheet. 35 cards are U1, these are usually dubbed the rares of the set. Of the 41 commons in The Dark 40 are C3. Maze of Ith is the only exception at C1 and is usually denoted as an uncommon although it is 50% more common than the U2 cards of the set. Also the common card Gaea's Touch comes in two versions, one has the mana symbols in the upper right corner of the card shifted more to the right than usual. For collector's purposes this means that one Gaea's Touch is a C1 (shifted mana symbols) and the other one C2 (normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going by the checklist provided in the comments, The Dark has no rares designated as such, so all cards go up in rarity in proportion to fit today's C/U/R pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, all C3 remain Commons, C1 (Maze of Ith) and all U2 are Uncommons, and all U1 are Rares, by today's rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T13:06:57.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4736" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:46:36.863" Score="19" ViewCount="19675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen a variety of combinations that will allow a player to &quot;go infinite&quot;* in life, power, toughness or simply create an endless loop**.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the endless loop, I understand why it necessarily forces a draw.  The game states can only proceed to states that feed the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b If the game somehow enters a “loop” of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature goes infinite in power or toughness, or a player goes infinite in life, does it necessarily signal a win/loss condition?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A particularly stubborn a player could require the now infinite player to only gain as much life/toughness/power as they are willing to physically perform the combo, but it would be poor sportsmanship, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* perform a combination where, at the end of the sequence, the combo may be performed again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** a particularly specific setup involving 3 oblivion rings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T13:03:27.240" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T10:09:33.540" Title="Does &quot;Going Infinite&quot; necessarily end the game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4733" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:49:17.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One condition where going infinite in life would not signal a game ending is EDH, since there are other winning conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, even though you now have infinite life, if you take more than 20 damage from my general you still lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another condition that I believe be applied in a general game is to poison counters, since they form an alternate victory condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T12:49:17.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4733" CreationDate="2011-09-15T12:57:49.693" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game does not end. You cannot do something infinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you do not have to do every step of a combo you do have to announce how many times you do it.  This number must be finite but can be as large as you want.  After that the game continues normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player cannot try to achieve a tie by saying &quot;i am still doing my infinite combo&quot; until the time runs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is delay of game as much as just not ending your turn for not reason.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this also means that if someone gained infinite life via combo, they can be killed by an infinite damage combo.  The second person can always name a bigger number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-09-15T13:09:29.960" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T13:09:29.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4733" CreationDate="2011-09-15T13:15:16.503" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules on taking shortcuts in Magic, as per your request. (Sorry, long...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you refuse to take a shortcut out of an infinite loop when you have the opportunity, you are committing deliberate timewasting as Andrey's answer suggests; a definite no-no in a tournament, and hopefully in a friendly group as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Taking Shortcuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.1. When playing a game, players typically make use of mutually&#xA;  understood shortcuts rather than explicitly identifying each game&#xA;  choice (either taking an action or passing priority) a player makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.1a The rules for taking shortcuts are largely unformalized. As&#xA;  long as each player in the game understands the intent of each other&#xA;  player, any shortcut system they use is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.1b Occasionally the game gets into a state in which a set of&#xA;  actions could be repeated indefinitely (thus creating a &quot;loop&quot;). In&#xA;  that case, the shortcut rules can be used to determine how many times&#xA;  those actions are repeated without having to actually perform them,&#xA;  and how the loop is broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.2. Taking a shortcut follows the following procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.2a At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest&#xA;  a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players,&#xA;  that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the&#xA;  predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a&#xA;  non-repetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified&#xA;  number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross&#xA;  multiple turns. It can't include conditional actions, where the&#xA;  outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The&#xA;  ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has&#xA;  priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&#xA;  Example: A player controls a creature enchanted by Presence of Gond,&#xA;  which grants the creature the ability &quot;{T}: Put a 1/1 green Elf&#xA;  Warrior creature token onto the battlefield,&quot; and another player&#xA;  controls Intruder Alarm, which reads, in part, &quot;Whenever a creature&#xA;  enters the battlefield, untap all creatures.&quot; When the player has&#xA;  priority, he may suggest &quot;I'll create a million tokens,&quot; indicating&#xA;  the sequence of activating the creature's ability, all players passing&#xA;  priority, letting the creature's ability resolve and put a token onto&#xA;  the battlefield (which causes Intruder Alarm's ability to trigger),&#xA;  Intruder Alarm's controller putting that triggered ability on the&#xA;  stack, all players passing priority, Intruder Alarm's triggered&#xA;  ability resolving, all players passing priority until the player&#xA;  proposing the shortcut has priority, and repeating that sequence&#xA;  999,999 more times, ending just after the last token-creating ability&#xA;  resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.2b Each other player, in turn order starting after the player who&#xA;  suggested the shortcut, may either accept the proposed sequence, or&#xA;  shorten it by naming a place where he or she will make a game choice&#xA;  that's different than what's been proposed. (The player doesn't need&#xA;  to specify at this time what the new choice will be.) This place&#xA;  becomes the new ending point of the proposed sequence. Example: The&#xA;  active player draws a card during her draw step, then says, &quot;Go.&quot; The&#xA;  nonactive player is holding Into the Fray (an instant that says&#xA;  &quot;Target creature attacks this turn if able&quot;) and says, &quot;I'd like to&#xA;  cast a spell during your beginning of combat step.&quot; The current&#xA;  proposed shortcut is that all players pass priority at all&#xA;  opportunities during the turn until the nonactive player has priority&#xA;  during the beginning of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.2c Once the last player has either accepted or shortened the&#xA;  shortcut proposal, the shortcut is taken. The game advances to the&#xA;  last proposed ending point, with all game choices contained in the&#xA;  shortcut proposal having been taken. If the shortcut was shortened&#xA;  from the original proposal, the player who now has priority must make&#xA;  a different game choice than what was originally proposed for that&#xA;  player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player&#xA;  involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in&#xA;  the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens, the&#xA;  active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop,&#xA;  the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a&#xA;  different game choice so the loop does not continue. Example: In a&#xA;  two-player game, the active player controls a creature with the&#xA;  ability &quot;{0}: [This creature] gains flying,&quot; the nonactive player&#xA;  controls a permanent with the ability &quot;{0}: Target creature loses&#xA;  flying,&quot; and nothing in the game cares how many times an ability has&#xA;  been activated. Say the active player activates his creature's&#xA;  ability, it resolves, then the nonactive player activates her&#xA;  permanent's ability targeting that creature, and it resolves. This&#xA;  returns the game to a game state it was at before. The active player&#xA;  must make a different game choice (in other words, anything other than&#xA;  activating that creature's ability again). The creature doesn't have&#xA;  flying. Note that the nonactive player could have prevented the&#xA;  fragmented loop simply by not activating her permanent's ability, in&#xA;  which case the creature would have had flying. The nonactive player&#xA;  always has the final choice and is therefore able to determine whether&#xA;  the creature has flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.4. If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw.&#xA;  (See rules 104.4b and 104.4f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a&#xA;  loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&#xA;  Example: A player controls Seal of Cleansing, an enchantment that&#xA;  reads, &quot;Sacrifice Seal of Cleansing: Destroy target artifact or&#xA;  enchantment.&quot; A mandatory loop that involves an artifact begins. The&#xA;  player is not forced to sacrifice Seal of Cleansing to destroy the&#xA;  artifact and end the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;715.6. If a loop contains an effect that says &quot;[A] unless [B],&quot; where&#xA;  [A] and [B] are each actions, no player can be forced to perform [B]&#xA;  to break the loop. If no player chooses to perform [B], the loop will&#xA;  continue as though [A] were mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T13:15:16.503" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2011-09-15T21:58:23.280" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're a Resistance member and the first leader, this tactic gives a 1-in-5 chance of directly winning the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first round, send yourself and someone who isn't to your left. If both the player you send and the player to your left are Resistance members, you win!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flow is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You and the selected Resistance member succeed at the first mission.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the player to your left becomes the leader, she adds herself to your successful team, and you succeed at the second mission.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The third leader has to send the three of you on the third mission lest he out himself as a spy. You three keep down-voting missions until you get sent and succeed at the third mission.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see that this gives a 1 in 5 chance of outright winning, multiply the probability that the player to your left is in the resistance by the probability that you successfully pick a resistance member for the first mission:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/6 * 2/5 = &lt;strong&gt;1/5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first mission fails, at least you know for certain the identity of one of the spies (and hopefully can convince your allies of this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first mission succeeds and the second fails, well, now you're playing a normal game of the Resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first two succeed and the third fails, you've almost won, and the Imperial spy gained almost nothing from waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each case, attempting the auto-win didn't cost you anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T22:12:22.840" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T22:12:22.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4569" CreationDate="2011-09-15T22:24:37.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A house rule I recall using many years ago when last I played: roll 2 dice, pick one for movement. Roll doubles, use either the showing or reverse number (6-1, 5-2, 4-3) for each stack. This made recruiting and movement go faster in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1823" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T22:24:37.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2970" CreationDate="2011-09-15T22:43:19.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would tell people WHY something is bad without telling them that it's bad. E.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic X takes up a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanic Y causes people to focus on the mechanic, and lose focus on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let the designers decide for themselves whether &quot;takes up a lot of time&quot; or &quot;causes a loss of focus&quot; is good or bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-09-15T22:43:19.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4742" CreationDate="2011-09-16T12:43:15.357" Score="8" ViewCount="3901" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;11) While a Commander is in the command zone, it may be cast. As an additional cost to cast a Commander from the command zone, its owner must pay {2} for each time it was previously cast from the command zone. (ie: it costs 6WW to cast for the third time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game last night someone tried to allow their commander to go to the graveyard as a method of resetting the casting penalty from the command zone.  While I agreed that the general could be brought back from the graveyard through normal means and cast without the penalty, I disagreed that allowing the general to go to the graveyard reset the counter in the command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His argument was that it's in the graveyard, counters on a creature go away.  I argued the counter is not on the general at all, but rather is part of the state of the game/command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who was correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-10-11T19:20:35.623" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T19:20:35.623" Title="When a general goes to the graveyard in EDH, does his casting counter reset in the command zone?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4741" CreationDate="2011-09-16T12:57:20.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were correct in the assumption that the tracking of casting cost is not a counter, but a separate attribute of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragonhighlander.net/rules.php&quot;&gt;official EDH rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a Commander is in the command zone, it may be cast. As an additional cost to cast a Commander from the command zone, its owner must pay {2} for each time it was previously cast from the command zone. (ie: it costs 6WW to cast for the third time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Magic comprehensive rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.10. A player may cast a commander he or she owns from the command zone. Doing so costs that player an additional {2} for each previous time he or she cast that commander from the command zone that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of these refer to &quot;counters&quot; at all - it's a static &quot;every time you play this again, it costs {2} more.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T12:57:20.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2602" CreationDate="2011-09-16T14:50:06.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3955/bang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bang!&lt;/a&gt; is a relatively simple, fast-playing card game with hidden, conflicting roles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="669" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T14:50:06.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4733" CreationDate="2011-09-16T15:25:59.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could &quot;get stuck&quot; in a loop which you can not break. This will, if there is no way you can end the loop, result in a draw. &#xA;I remember that from the old &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWorldgorger%20Dragon%5d&quot;&gt;Worldgorger Dragon&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAnimate%20Dead%5d&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-11-04T10:09:33.540" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T10:09:33.540" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4745" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-16T22:07:25.370" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-09-16T22:07:25.370" LastActivityDate="2011-09-16T22:07:25.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4746" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-16T22:07:25.370" Score="0" Body="Titan is a fantasy war board game where each player controls an army of mythological creatures such as gargoyles, unicorns, and griffons, led by a single titan.  The death of a titan eliminates that player and their entire army from the game. The player controlling the last remaining titan wins the game." OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T00:45:12.923" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T00:45:12.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4751" CreationDate="2011-09-16T23:07:29.753" Score="5" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;In El Grande, it is possible to collect a Veto card, which can be used to prevent a player from performing the action of the card they choose. It can be used to veto one card in the current round or the next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says something like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when a player starts to perform their action, the veto card is played, and prevents the action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, does the player have to explain their full action, or just their intention to use the card? For example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Player A has the Veto Card, and Player B decides to play the Move King card, does Player B have to make known&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their intention to move the king&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where they intend to move the king (which indeed may be to leave it where it currently is).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can they get away with just declaring their intention to move the king, and leave some element of doubt for Player B?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:50:29.860" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T20:50:29.860" Title="Clarification of the Veto Card in El Grande" Tags="|el-grande|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4750" CreationDate="2011-09-16T23:54:22.510" Score="57" ViewCount="79945" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic: The Gathering, the rules for a player losing in a multiplayer game are quite complex, so I'd like to try to understand them by example. I would be happy to ask each of these situations as a separate question if that is preferred, but they all seem related, and I would love to have one place to look up all of these answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm playing with two friends, Bob and Chloe, in a simple free for all. Unfortunately, I lose. When I lose, suppose the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I controlled an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; which has exiled Bob's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt;, does he get his bear back?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245184&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; on the stack targeting Chloe, does Chloe take the 2 damage still?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Earlier in the turn I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197011&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Healing Salve&lt;/a&gt; to prevent damage to one of Bob's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bears&lt;/a&gt;. If it later takes 3 damage, will that damage be prevented?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something I controlled gave Bob a 1/1 soldier token. What happens to the token?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something Chloe controlled gave me a 1/1 soldier token. What happens to the token?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238572&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt; enchanting one of Bob's army of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bears&lt;/a&gt;. What happens to the bear?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had also played &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226589&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; on Bob's final &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bears&lt;/a&gt;. What happens to the last bear?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chloe had &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205220&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cloned&lt;/a&gt; my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=191056&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raging Goblin&lt;/a&gt;. What happens to the Clone?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other situations specifically addressed by the rules?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="23417" LastEditDate="2018-04-05T05:09:31.690" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T23:42:48.243" Title="In MTG, what happens when a player loses in multiplayer?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4749" CreationDate="2011-09-17T00:17:49.957" Score="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the source: section 8 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; covers multiplayer games, and rule 800.4a deals with the consequences of one player being eliminated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4a.&lt;/strong&gt; When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game, any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end, and all spells and abilities controlled by that player on the stack cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is clarified by several other rules, among them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4c&lt;/strong&gt; If an object that would be owned by a player who has left the game would be created in any zone, it isn’t created. If a triggered ability that would be controlled by a player who has left the game would be put onto the stack, it isn’t put on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying this to your examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I controlled an Oblivion Ring which has exiled Bob's Runeclaw Bear, does he get his bear back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 800.4a provides for the Ring to leave the game when you lose. Ordinarily that would result in a triggered ability that returns the Bear to the battlefield, but rule 800.4c overrides that. So &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, Bob does not get his bear back. Note that if the card is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380375&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Banishing Light&lt;/a&gt;, the Oblivion Ring equivalent with &quot;until&quot; rather than a separate triggered ability for removing, Bob &lt;strong&gt;would&lt;/strong&gt; get the Bear back, as there's no &quot;returning&quot; trigger to interact with 800.4 (see the final gatherer ruling)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have a Shock on the stack targeting Chloe, does Chloe take to 2 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, because the Shock leaves the game when you lose according to 800.4a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Earlier in the turn I cast Healing Salve to prevent damage to one of Bob's Runeclaw Bears. If it later takes 3 damage, will that damage be prevented?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is a little tricky, but as far as I can tell, there is nothing in rule 800.4 that says your &lt;em&gt;effects&lt;/em&gt; are terminated when you leave the game. (Note that an &quot;effect&quot; is something separate from a spell or ability) So I believe that &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the damage would be prevented. Prevention effects are described in rule 615.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Something I controlled gave Bob a 1/1 soldier token. What happens to the token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 110.5a states that &quot;a token is both owned and controlled by the player under whose control it entered the battlefield.&quot; So this token is Bob's and has no connection to you; thus &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt; happens to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Something Chloe controlled gave me a 1/1 soldier token. What happens to the token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This token, on the other hand, is owned by you, so rule 800.4a specifies that it &lt;strong&gt;leaves&lt;/strong&gt; the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had a Mind Control enchanting one of Bob's army of Runeclaw Bears. What happens to the bear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob&lt;/strong&gt; gets the bear back because your Mind Control leaves the game. (I realize I'm pretty much bolding random words now)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had also played Act of Treason on Bob's final Runeclaw Bears. What happens to the last bear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob gets the bear back again, but this &lt;strong&gt;time&lt;/strong&gt; because rule 800.4a explicitly causes control-changing effects to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chloe had Cloned my Raging Goblin. What happens to the Clone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find an explicit reference for this one (yet) but I believe the Clone continues to exist as a copy of Raging Goblin, independent of the original. Clone says it &quot;enters the battlefield as&quot; a copy of the Goblin, but once it has entered the battlefield, the copying is complete and Clone doesn't maintain any connection to the Goblin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there any other situations specifically addressed by the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course ;-) Rule 800.4 alone has 9 subsections; I'd recommend that you take a look at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2018-05-17T15:17:13.433" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T15:17:13.433" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4747" CreationDate="2011-09-17T01:51:52.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some clarifications of the Veto rules personally corrected and confirmed by the game designer Wolfgang Kramer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*9. Veto: If you have taken this card, then lay it in front of you&#xA;  where the other players can see it. You may use it to veto any one&#xA;  special action that a player wishes to carry out either during the&#xA;  remainder of the current round or during the next round. You may only&#xA;  veto a special action, the normal placement of Caballeros is carried&#xA;  out as usual. You may only use your Veto once, and during the special&#xA;  action is carrying out. You may not cancel an action once carried out.&#xA;  Once you have used your Veto you must return the card to the box, if&#xA;  you have not used your Veto by the end of the round after the one in&#xA;  which you took the card, then you must give it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The opponents can ask for or come to an agreement with you about what&#xA;  they can do. * An opponent wants move some Caballeros, he can ask :&#xA;  &quot;If I move this Caballeros from ... to ..., you play the Veto card?&quot;&#xA;  or &quot;May I move this Caballero, and this else?&quot; or other similar&#xA;  questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an opponent doesn't want to carry out the special action, you can't&#xA;  force him thanks to the Veto, because it can prevent (but can't force)&#xA;  an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9.1. Veto &amp;amp; Special action addressed to only one player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who is on turn determines the order of the steps of a&#xA;  special action (rule 4), so the Veto can stop his special action at&#xA;  any time before it ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&quot;INTRIGANT:4 BELIEBIGE CABALLEROS AUF DEM SPIELPLAN BELIEBIG&#xA;  UMSETZEN: The player may remove up to 4 Caballeros (their own and/or&#xA;  opponent's) from the board, and replace them in another region or in&#xA;  the Castillo.&quot;: A player may move four Caballeros. He has already&#xA;  moved two. You were pleased with these moves. Now he plans to move one&#xA;  more. You don't like that, so you play your Veto and he can't execute&#xA;  the remainder of the special action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's more where this came from, but I thought I'd stop there!  I think this illustrates the power of Veto quite nicely: you can indeed find out what a player plans to do with their move before choosing to veto it; and you can even use the Veto partway through a move if it begins to take a direction you don't like!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T01:51:52.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4753" CreationDate="2011-09-17T11:17:21.443" Score="3" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Boons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;boons&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which are a cycle of instants that cost 1 coloured mana and grant 3 of something: cards, mana, damage, +1/+1, or healing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems that there are a number of other cards that also cost 1 mana and grant 3 of something. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Holy Strength&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205237&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unholy Strength&lt;/a&gt; each grant a combined power/toughness boost of +3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several 1-cost creatures are 1/1, with one keyword ability: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Benalish Hero&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=16442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain Goat&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129604&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tundra Wolves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Savannah Lions&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129773&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wall of Wood&lt;/a&gt; have a combined power/toughness of 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an established term for these cards, or for the design principle of paying 1 mana for 3 resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T10:10:57.680" Title="In MTG, is there a collective name for cards that cost 1 mana and grant 3 of something?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4752" CreationDate="2011-09-17T12:04:22.517" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the simple answer to his question is actually &quot;no&quot;.  I've been playing and reading about Magic for over 15 years now, and I've never heard of a collective term for these cards, beyond the &quot;boons&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obviously true to say that three is a bit of a magic number (excuse the pun) in Magic, and that there are symmetries and cycles everywhere in the cards.  Holy Strength and Unholy Strength are obvious symmetrical designs.  Likewise the 1/1 for 1 with some special ability is a longstanding Magic tradition.  Nowadays, what with power creep, a 1/1 for 1 mana rarely cuts the mustard: now the design principle you want to watch out for is the 1cc creature that has some way of attacking for 2 on turn 2.  (Innistrad even has a werewolf that can attack for 3 on turn 2, on a good day!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not there was initially a design decision to give out three of something for one mana, I think, basically, they were quick to realise that it was a &lt;em&gt;bad design principle&lt;/em&gt;.  Obviously they spotted that Ancestral Recall was about a million times better than Healing Salve in time to make one rare and one common; likewise, a Wall of Wood is a vastly worse card than Savannah Lions, and again, the bad card was common and the good card was rare (though a 2/1 for 1 wouldn't be rare any more).  Lightning Bolt may or may not have been too good, at 1 mana for 3 damage; and that's why, quite often, we have formats where only the fixed version, Shock, giving 2 damage for 1 mana, is legal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think players would no longer accept cards that are terrible just because they are symmetric.  Look at the &quot;new&quot; Holy and Unholy Strengths in Magic 2012, Divine and Dark Favor.  Because +3/+1 is considerably better most of the time than +1/+3, Dark Favour comes at a life cost compared with Divine Favor's life gain.  That's a much better design decision than just saying &quot;2 mana = 4 resources, job done&quot;.  Without a shadow of a doubt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-17T12:26:30.227" LastActivityDate="2011-09-17T12:26:30.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4756" CreationDate="2011-09-19T12:34:29.103" Score="10" ViewCount="2035" Body="&lt;p&gt;In discussions of Magic cards, I've heard a card called a &lt;em&gt;cantrip&lt;/em&gt; on several occasions, but I haven't been able to find a definition of what that term means for MtG. Is a cantrip a particular card, a card with a particular mechanism, or what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T12:43:51.727" Title="What's a cantrip?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4755" CreationDate="2011-09-19T12:43:51.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cantrip is any spell that allows you to draw a card in addition to it's regular effect (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130903&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Peek&lt;/a&gt;).  It is typically of low casting cost, and the drawing is a secondary effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T12:43:51.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4758" CreationDate="2011-09-19T13:38:30.980" Score="13" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Spiel des Jahres is one of the biggest, if not the biggest award in European gaming.  It is estimated that winning Spiel des Jahres can increase the sales tenfold.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested to know what process is used to come to the decisions for the winner of the Spiel des Jahres. Obviously there is a jury and a list of nominations; but how are the nominations and the final decisions about the winners made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T23:59:12.380" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T23:59:12.380" Title="How are the Spiel des Jahres decisions made?" Tags="|spiel-des-jahres|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4757" CreationDate="2011-09-19T13:50:15.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Spiel's website (the English version at least):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jury&lt;/strong&gt; The jury consists solely of journalists who specialize in game&#xA;  reviews, have worked for extended periods for newspapers, magazines,&#xA;  and broadcast organizations and who have thereby proven their&#xA;  competency and ability to make sound judgments. The association's&#xA;  charter forbids jury membership to any person involved in any way with&#xA;  games publishing and sales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Election Procedure&lt;/strong&gt; The jury will consider all new family and adult&#xA;  games published during the current and previous calendar year. There&#xA;  is no separate request for submissions. The election procedure goes&#xA;  through two phases: an information gathering phase and an initial&#xA;  evaluation phase.  After the two phases end, the jury meets in&#xA;  conference to create a list of candidates. From this list a shortlist&#xA;  of three nominees is selected for the main award. The winner of the&#xA;  Spiel des Jahres award is elected the evening before the announcement&#xA;  of the award.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Judgment Criteria&lt;/strong&gt; The nominees for the main award and the special&#xA;  awards are judged on the following aspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Game idea (originality, playability, play value) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rules design&#xA;  (structure, clarity, understandability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Layout and presentation (box,&#xA;  game board, rules) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Design (features, workmanship)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the jury are pretty powerful as far as I can make out.  But hopefully unbiased!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T13:50:15.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4759" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-19T14:21:41.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Spiel des Jahres awards are normally given to family-style games, rather than complex games. In 2008, it broke with this tradition and awarded an additional &quot;Complex Game&quot; award, and in 2011 this practice was formalized with the creation of an annual &quot;Kennerspiel des Jahres&quot; award (roughly &quot;Connoisseur-Enthusiast Game of the Year&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent winners of the Spiel des Jahres award:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2012&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Kingdom Builder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connoisseurs' game of the year: Village&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2011&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Qwirkle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Connoisseurs' game of the year: 7 Wonders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2010&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Dixit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children's game of the year: Diego Drachenzahn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game Of The Year plus (special award): World Without End&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2009&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Dominion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children's game of the year: Das magische Labyrinth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Party game: Gift Trap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New game worlds: Space Alert&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2008&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Keltis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children's game of the year: Wer war's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complex game: Agricola&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2007&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Zooloretto&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children's game of the year: Beppo der Bock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2006&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Thurn and Taxis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children's game of the year: Der Schwarze Pirat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Complex game: Caylus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fantasy game: Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2005&lt;/strong&gt; Game of the year: Niagara&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children's game of the year: Das Kleine Gespenst&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T00:32:09.950" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T00:32:09.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4760" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-19T14:21:41.483" Score="0" Body="The Spiel des Jahres (German - &quot;Game of the Year&quot;) is a major award for European board and card games.  The award is sponsored by &quot;Spiel des Jahres e.V.&quot; a non-profit association of game review columnists based in German-speaking countries.  The aim of the awards is &quot;to promote games as a cultural asset to encourage gaming amongst family and friends and to provide an aid to selecting the best games from a wide range of products on offer&quot;." OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="1783" LastEditDate="2011-09-19T14:46:29.300" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T14:46:29.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4764" CreationDate="2011-09-19T14:29:58.183" Score="7" ViewCount="9276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a poison deck and want to check the Infect rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a 2/2 creature with Infect is blocked by a vanilla 3/3 creature, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the 3/3 gets two -1/-1 counters instead of damage, but does it do 3 or 1 damage to my 2/2 infect creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone give reference to official rules on when the counters come into play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T00:53:15.937" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T00:53:15.937" Title="How does Infect resolve in M:TG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4761" CreationDate="2011-09-19T14:44:51.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combat damage happens at the same time for both sides, so if you attack with a 2/2 with wither (or whatever the new one is that does poison), and they block with a 3/3, your creature does its 2 damage to the blocking creature the same time the blocking creature does its 3 damage to your attacking creature.  The attacking creature dies with the 3 damage but the 3/3, after combat, is now a 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-09-19T14:47:39.803" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T14:47:39.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4761" CreationDate="2011-09-19T14:55:45.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;DForck's answer is correct.  The only way for the 2/2 poison creature to receive only 1 damage from the 3/3 blocker is if it has First Strike as well as Infect: then, in the first strike combat damage step, 2 points of infected damage is dealt, putting two -1/-1 counters on the 3/3; and then during normal combat damage, the now 1/1 creature deals its damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infect means that a creature &quot;deals its damage [to creatures] as -1/-1 counters&quot;.  It doesn't change the speed of the damage in any way; it doesn't alter the damage from being damage in any way (so, for instance, a creature with Infect and Lifelink will gain its controller the same amount of life as the number of -1/-1 counters dealt).  It's just plain old ordinary damage, albeit in a slightly modified form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T14:55:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4761" CreationDate="2011-09-19T15:02:06.423" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if a 2/2 poison creature is blocked by a normal 3/3 creature what happens ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the 3/3/ gets two -1/-1 counters instead of damage but does it do 3 or 1 damage to my 2/2 poison creature ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can anyone give reference to official rules on when the counters come into play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;, all damage is dealt simultaneously.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with &lt;em&gt;infect&lt;/em&gt; deals damage like this, according to rule 119.3d &amp;amp; e and 702.88c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3d Damage dealt to a creature by a source with wither and/or infect causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3e Damage dealt to a creature by a source with neither wither nor infect causes that much damage to be marked on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.88c Damage dealt to a creature by a source with infect isn't marked on that creature. Rather, it causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, since damage is done simultaneously and the counters come into play at the same time damage is dealt, your 2/2 creature with infect will be dealt 3 damage, and the 3/3 creature will get two -1/-1 counters during the combat damage step. Your creature with infect will therefore die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T15:33:22.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4766" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:32:35.603" Score="6" ViewCount="2253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the answer is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leeches&lt;/a&gt; is the only appropriate card for removing poison counters from players, based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/4263/1583&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but I'll ask anyway since I have observed this card posted elsewhere as an answer to poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can cards which remove counters, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClockspinning%5d&quot;&gt;Clockspinning&lt;/a&gt;, be used to remove poison counters or is Leeches the only appropriate response?  What about the same question but targeting the -1/-1 counters on creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:19:58.597" Title="Can Clockspinning from Time Spiral be used to remove infect or poison counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4765" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:41:09.350" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Magic comprehensive rules state that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it's moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a player is neither a card nor a token, and a player is certainly not on the battlefield, Clockspinning can not target a player and thus can not be used to remove poison counters. It can, of course, be used to remove -1/-1 counters on creatures that was caused by infect damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T17:41:09.350" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4770" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:41:10.393" Score="4" ViewCount="1218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the damage caused by removing poison counters using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leeches&lt;/a&gt; be avoided using a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Circle%20of%20Protection%3AWhite&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection:White&lt;/a&gt;?  If it can be avoided, would the damage be considered &amp;quot;once&amp;quot; and cost {1}, or would it be {1} times the number of poison counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:18:04.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:18:04.297" Title="Can Circle of Protection:White prevent the damage from Leeches (Circle of Protection / Leeches Combo)?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4765" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:41:57.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poison counters are not placed on any permanent on the battlefield or suspended card, they are placed on the player so no, this card will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poison Counter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A counter that may be given to a player. See rule 121, &amp;quot;Counters,&amp;quot; and rule 704.5c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T17:47:56.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:47:17.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards has released ten 30-card sample decks (2 in each color) designed for exactly this. Unfortunately, they do not appear to be a &lt;em&gt;product&lt;/em&gt;. I saw boxes full of these given out at conventions as freebies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T17:47:17.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4767" CreationDate="2011-09-19T17:56:34.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer text for Leeches&lt;/a&gt; is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target player loses all poison counters. Leeches deals that much damage to that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Circle of Protection White:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}: The next time a white source of your choice would deal damage to you this turn, prevent that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast the spell, there is only one copy on the stack. All the damage is dealt at once. You only need to activate the CoP:White once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leeches is a white source of damage by 609.7a and thus may be prevented by CoP:W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.7a If an effect requires a player to choose a source of damage, he or she may choose a permanent; a spell on the stack (including a permanent spell); any object referred to by an object on the stack, by a replacement or prevention effect that's waiting to apply, or by a delayed triggered ability that's waiting to trigger (even if that object is no longer in the zone it used to be in); or, for certain casual variant games, a face-up card in the command zone. A source doesn't need to be capable of dealing damage to be a legal choice. The source is chosen when the effect is created. If the player chooses a permanent, the effect will apply to the next damage dealt by that permanent, regardless of whether it's combat damage or damage dealt as the result of a spell or ability. If the player chooses a permanent spell, the effect will apply to any damage dealt by that spell and any damage dealt by the permanent that spell becomes when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-19T18:10:06.313" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:10:06.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:11:59.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards has a new product released this month (September 2012):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Booster Battle Packs (MSRP $9.99)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each Booster Battle Pack contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two 20-card semi-randomized decks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two 15-card Magic 2012 Core Set booster packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic &amp;quot;learn to play&amp;quot; guide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules insert&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ad copy says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each pack contains a pair of semi-random decks, each with land appropriate for the deck's two colors. To play Booster Battle Packs, each player selects a deck, opens a booster chooses up to five cards from it, and shuffles them into their deck, then the spell-slinging begins. Since each pack will have four different colors, the two decks won't overlap. And when you add the booster to the equation, Booster Battle Packs create nearly limitless limited play options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, that's a pretty affordable way to get your feet wet. Don't drown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:11:59.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2011-09-19T18:34:53.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a lot of dopplekopf (aka double sheepshead although there are more differences than just the deck size). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bare fail-suit (non-trump) Ace has a reasonable chance of taking a trick and certainly helps your team. The odds that your partner(s) had a better legal play had they known you were on their team are small, so this seems like a good lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're the picker's partner, leading a jack (or sub-10 diamond, though jacks are better) to your partner's presumed high trump is a very good play. If you're the picker, consider leading a red queen early to attempt to force opponents into difficult decisions (especially before partners are known).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leads that might fish out partners are generally more valuable if you have a strong hand (trump) or a lot of points (especially in fail suits), because in both those situations, your hand will be vastly improved by good teamwork. If you have a more middling / balanced hand, letting things go unknown for longer may result in teammates overtrumping each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1837" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T18:34:53.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4774" CreationDate="2011-09-19T20:35:19.707" Score="4" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Puresteel%20Paladin&quot;&gt;Puresteel Paladin&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bludgeon%20Brawl&quot;&gt;Bludgeon Brawl&lt;/a&gt; in play.  I play an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ichor%20Wellspring&quot;&gt;Ichor Wellspring&lt;/a&gt;.  How many cards do I draw, one or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puresteel Paladin says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever an Equipment enters the battlefield under your control, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bludgeon Brawl says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each noncreature, non-Equipment artifact is an Equipment with equip X and &amp;quot;Equipped creature gets +X/+0,&amp;quot; where X is that artifact's converted mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and Ichor Wellspring says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Ichor Wellspring enters the battlefield or is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:17:06.683" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:17:06.683" Title="Bludgeon Brawl &amp; Puresteel Paladin" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4773" CreationDate="2011-09-19T21:27:39.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first I thought you would only draw one card. But I think the rules have been tweaked on this since I last did dastardly stuff like this…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bludgeon Brawl&lt;/a&gt; enchantment only refers to noncreature, non-Equipment cards already on the battlefield. It's a continuous effect. Note it &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; affect cards in your hand or spells on the stack. That's why I thought maybe you'd only draw one card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But here's the relevant rules. Emphasis is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent &lt;strong&gt;do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; (and not before then). &lt;strong&gt;The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified characteristics.&lt;/strong&gt; Continuous effects don't apply before the permanent is on the battlefield, however (see rule 603.6e).&#xA;  Example: If an effect reads &quot;All lands are creatures&quot; and a land card is played, &lt;strong&gt;the effect makes the land card into a creature the moment it enters the battlefield, so it would trigger abilities that trigger when a creature enters the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt; Conversely, if an effect reads &quot;All creatures lose all abilities&quot; and a creature card with an enters-the-battlefield triggered ability enters the battlefield, that effect will cause it to lose its abilities the moment it enters the battlefield, so the enters-the-battlefield ability won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6b is confirmed and reframed by 611.3c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.3c Continuous effects that modify characteristics of permanents &lt;strong&gt;do so simultaneously with the permanent entering the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt; They don't wait until the permanent is on the battlefield and then change it. Because such effects apply as the permanent enters the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;they are applied before determining whether the permanent will cause an ability to trigger when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Example: A permanent with the static ability &quot;All white creatures get +1/+1&quot; is on the battlefield. A creature spell that would normally create a 1/1 white creature instead creates a 2/2 white creature. The creature doesn't enter the battlefield as 1/1 and then change to 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, guess what &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr11b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Johnny&lt;/a&gt;? When &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213737&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ichor Wellspring&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield, due to the continuous effect of the Bludgeon Brawl, it thinks that it has always been an Equipment and triggers &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puresteel Paladin&lt;/a&gt;'s ability! You get to draw two cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-09-19T21:41:03.840" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T21:41:03.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4776" CreationDate="2011-09-19T22:48:01.813" Score="4" ViewCount="1969" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was asked this question by a player at an M12 draft over the weekend, and I would like to get the question &amp;amp; answer up on the internet for all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220295&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stave Off&lt;/a&gt; to save my creature from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player was asking while deck building, so there was no specific game state to go with the question. Considering that, please be complete when providing an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T11:52:42.227" Title="In MTG, can I use Stave Off to save my creature from Oblivion Ring?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2011-09-19T22:59:09.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you can.  Oblivion Ring comes into targets &quot;another nonland permanent&quot; - your creature.  With this triggered effect on the stack, cast Stave Off in response targeting your creature, giving it Protection from White.  The Oblivion Ring's ability will now be countered by game rules, due to having an illegal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; do with Stave Off is bring back a creature that has already been exiled by Oblivion Ring.  The creature is far from the battlefield and can't be targeted; even if it could, it is too late for Protection from White to help it!  You'll need something capable of getting rid of an enchantment to rescue your creature from oblivion in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-19T22:59:09.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4778" CreationDate="2011-09-20T04:44:07.730" Score="12" ViewCount="1464" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that computers can beat the majority of chess players out there, and at the current rate in which distributed computing is going, it seems like the #1 chess player out there will be computers these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this is different with Go, as the best AI available out there cannot beat a decent player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any chess variants, which while still maintaining some sort of similarity with chess, cannot be effectively played by a computer, while still playable by humans at a level better than AIs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking a bigger board with more pieces would help, but rules changes might be needed as well to change the gameplay a bit. But I suppose the further you drift from the original chess game, the less interest people might have on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1838" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T12:24:05.577" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T12:31:40.263" Title="Chess variant that allows humans to be competitive vs computers" Tags="|chess|variants|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2011-09-20T05:57:15.883" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  In fact, Arimaa was designed explicitly for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arimaa.com/&quot;&gt;http://arimaa.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was designed by an AI expert who wanted a game where humans could beat the best computers.  There is a contest every year called the Arimaa Challenge where AI's compete to try to beat the best humans.  So far, none have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T20:40:42.343" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T20:40:42.343" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1473" CreationDate="2011-09-20T07:24:50.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the question whether Hearts is such a simple game, that it is possible after a while to completely master it (meaning that several players can reach this level where it is not possible to improve, and between them only luck will decide who wins), the answer is definitely no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the answers here are a bit inaccurate though. People argue that because you don't know the cards of the other players, it's impossible to always pick the best strategy for yourself and therefore it is impossible to master the game. This is missing the question as I read it. Obviously no one will ever master the game at a level where every play they make is the same as someone knowing all the cards would make, it doesn't even make any sense to  discuss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question must be whether there is an optimal strategy for every situation, meaning that with the information a player has a in a certain situation, there is one option that gives him the best chances of achieving his goal in the game. The key here being &quot;the information a player has&quot;. Playing human opponents, it's possible to pick up on little tells and signs about their cards or from their actions that forms part of the information you would use to determine the best option. If I've played for hours and hours against a certain player, I would know his style and tells better than someone who's never played him, and I would then have more information and better chances of making the right decision. Your friend who has &quot;mastered the game&quot; wouldn't play as well against the player I know as I would (unless he is better at something else in the game than me or he is lucky), and would therefore find it hard to beat my score. People who play poker will know this very well. If you only look at the maths and don't try to figure out what your opponents are doing, you are going to lose a lot, and reading your opponents is something that can never really be mastered, meaning it will always be possible to improve. And that's not even considering the game-improving potential of trying to manipulate your opponents into doing what you want them to, which is also something that I don't think anyone will ever master, as in having nowhere to go to improve. Curiously in theory it's possible to both read your opponents and manipulate them successfully in every single situation, but then again in theory it's also possible to randomly choose your actions and by luck having them turn in to be right every single time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove the part about reading your opponents and only look at your own game, it's possible in my opinion to always find a &quot;best choice&quot;, and thus possible to master the game. Your friend has probably played the computer, and playing the computer there definitely is a &quot;best way&quot; to go if you've memorized all the cards etc. The thing being overlooked, though, is that you're actually reading the signs the computer players give, without noticing it. You develop a kind of intuition sensing danger develop etc. It gives you a great edge being able to read the computer players, especially since they're not able to read you or manipulate you. It's therefore easy to get the feeling that you've mastered the game and found the optimal strategy in every situation. The truth is you're probably just close to consistently finding the best options against one specific opponent (computer*3), and that opponent is severely handicapped by being completely predictable itself, and unable to read your play or adjust its own. Not really a big feat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1839" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T12:45:23.963" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T12:45:23.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4781" CreationDate="2011-09-20T10:20:20.700" Score="8" ViewCount="24279" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9TbX8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xBJoA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two cards were played against my poison deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His reckoning is that I cannot put -1/-1 counters on the creature as it prevents all combat damage and infect uses damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also says that as the white card prevents damage this would stop him from getting poison counters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is he right ? can anyone cite me some official rules to clarify this ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T12:48:09.950" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:20:49.530" Title="Does preventing damage also prevent poison?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-09-20T11:07:37.243" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your friend is correct, he can prevent Wither and/or Infect damage just like regular damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for that is that &lt;strong&gt;damage&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;damage effects&lt;/strong&gt; are separate things. That difference is usually not important because in most situations, the steps to get from one to the other are walked over and the correct outcome is intuitively clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's how it works in detail in case difficulties arise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, damage is just a number with a source. It knows nothing of life points, loyalty or -1/-1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, prevention and replacement effects happen. The damage number is increased, decreased, or the whole damage effect is replaced entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after that step does damage have an actual effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a source without wither or infect deals damage to a creature, the effect of that damage is that the affected creature gets that much damage marked on it; if the damage was dealt to a player, that player loses that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a creature with Infect and/or Wither deals damage, the effect of the damage is that that many -1/-1 counters are placed on the creature or; in case of Infect only, the player gets that many poison counters, loses life otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage dealt to a planeswalker will always result in that many loyalty counters being removed from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, damage prevention effects like you cited above simply reduce the damage &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the effect happens, so the effect is reduced accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119 Damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3a Damage dealt to a player by a source without infect causes that player to lose that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3b Damage dealt to a player by a source with infect causes that player to get that many poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3c Damage dealt to a planeswalker causes that many loyalty counters to be removed from that planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3d Damage dealt to a creature by a source with wither and/or infect causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3e Damage dealt to a creature by a source with neither wither nor infect causes that much damage to be marked on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.4. Damage is processed in a three-part sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.4a &lt;strong&gt;First, damage is dealt, as modified by replacement and prevention effects that interact with damage.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 614, &amp;quot;Replacement Effects,&amp;quot; and rule 615, &amp;quot;Prevention Effects.&amp;quot;) Abilities that trigger when damage is dealt trigger now and wait to be put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.4b &lt;strong&gt;Next, damage that's been dealt is transformed into its results&lt;/strong&gt;, as modified by replacement effects that interact with those results (such as life loss or counters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.4c Finally, the damage event occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:20:49.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4775" CreationDate="2011-09-20T11:52:42.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. For the complete answer, in addition to thesunneversets' answer, an excerpt from the game's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15. Protection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15a Protection is a static ability, written &amp;quot;Protection from [quality].&amp;quot; This quality is usually a color (as in &amp;quot;protection from black&amp;quot;) but can be any characteristic value. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15b A permanent or player with protection can't be targeted by spells with the stated quality and can't be targeted by abilities from a source with the stated quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &amp;quot;target,&amp;quot; are now illegal&lt;/strong&gt;. If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability's effect for which it is an illegal target can't perform any actions on that target or make that target perform any actions. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Example: Aura Blast is a white instant that reads, &amp;quot;Destroy target enchantment. Draw a card.&amp;quot; If the enchantment isn't a legal target during Aura Blast's resolution (say, if it has gained protection from white or left the battlefield), then Aura Blast is countered.&lt;/strong&gt; Its controller doesn't draw a card.[..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T11:52:42.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4786" CreationDate="2011-09-20T12:58:04.583" Score="2" ViewCount="2225" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Innistrad set, at least 1 of the double faced cards is a werewolf with the ability to upgrade other werewolves and wolves in play.  What other wolves have good potential to combine with the Mayor of Avabruck//Howlpack Alpha card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking primarily of Commander games, but if you think something fits a different format, please note that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvFsD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mayor of Avabruck // Howlpack Alpha&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T18:40:50.030" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T14:33:38.187" Title="What cards have good potential for a combo with Mayor of Avabruck // Howlpack Alpha?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-20T00:30:34.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:00:03.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some ways of generating more wolf tokens to play a swarming strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sDmLJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fable of Wolf and Owl&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ARhHj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Turntimber Ranger&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kicker might be more appropriate to EDH/Commander games where mana is more plentiful, likewise Master of the Hunt is expensive but if mana is plentiful, it might be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Edrb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wolfbriar Elemental&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OhCJi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Master of the Hunt&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For true EDH play, here's your general for this deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XqFJU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rhys the Redeemed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T23:58:45.077" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T23:58:45.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4790" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:06:32.637" Score="11" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the text of the Lesser/Greater Werewolf card reads Lycanthrope but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=false&amp;amp;multiverseid=2923&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;oracle text at Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; reads the type as Werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the Gather errata (oracle) should be the observed interpretation, but how can I put this in a simple way that will be accepted by other players and is consistent with the established rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see this as a relevant question, as this card could be teamed with Mayor of Avabruck//Howlpack Alpha and gain the +1/+1 no matter which side was facing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2WcW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lesser Werewolf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcJRr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Greater Werewolf&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-23T13:37:35.720" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:17:02.007" Title="What is the correct creature type for Lesser and Greater Werewolf?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:11:36.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why settle for two or three wolves when you can have seven or more of them instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUZzK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Howl of the Night Pack&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T13:14:50.173" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T13:14:50.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:12:59.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These cards have Human and Wolf or Warewolf in their creature types, and would gain +1/+1 from the Mayor regardless of which face was up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZkPeT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Gatstaf Shepherd//Gatstaf Howler&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5SDpc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Grizzled Outcasts//Krallenhorde Wantons&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These (formerly human wolf) cards are (now, Sept 2011) werewolves and benefit when Howlpack Alpha is face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dttvs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Treacherous Werewolf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXlJb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lesser Werewolf&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hjn9M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Greater Werewolf&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-22T17:06:44.287" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:06:44.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:14:35.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If just having a ton of 3/3 wolves isn't enough for you - why not have them fall upon your opponent's creatures like, er, a pack of wolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r2a4e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T13:14:35.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4785" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:19:08.310" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The creature sub type &quot;Lycanthrope&quot; has been removed from the game; &quot;Werewolf&quot; is correct as per Oracle reference.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oracle is always the final authority on all questions about a specific card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle_(TM) card reference when determining a card's wording. A card's Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule specifically tackling your question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;205.3f Many cards were printed with subtypes that are now obsolete. Many cards have retroactively received subtypes. Use the Oracle card reference to determine what a card's subtypes are. (See rule 108.1.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any way to convince other players of that fact if they choose not to believe you, except by showing them the Oracle reference. Note also that in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2018/downloads/MagicCompRules%2020180713.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules, section 205.3m&lt;/a&gt;, there is a list of all currently legal creature subtypes, and it does not list Lycanthrope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reprinted cards with that issue, you could take 1 of the reprinted cards as a sample and prove it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2018-07-24T14:17:02.007" LastActivityDate="2018-07-24T14:17:02.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4785" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:20:28.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Oracle wording is considered to be the official way the cards work according to Wizards of the Coast.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, there's nothing stopping your casual group playing using the original card text.  But if you want to &quot;become good at Magic&quot; and maybe attend some sanctioned tournaments some day, then having a clear idea of how the cards will actually work in such an environment should certainly be to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your play group is avowedly casual, and intends always to be so, then it's fine to have a house rule to &quot;play the card as printed&quot;.  But you should warn new arrivals to the group early on, to avoid possible confusion!  And even then the really obsessive-compulsive rules lawyer types may not be happy with such a free-and-easy approach...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T13:20:28.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4795" CreationDate="2011-09-20T13:53:26.347" Score="9" ViewCount="1527" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1:&#xA;My &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rot%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Rot Wolf&lt;/a&gt; (2/2 with &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Infect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infect&lt;/a&gt;) is attacking.  My opponent assigns his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defiant%20Elf&quot;&gt;Defiant Elf&lt;/a&gt; (1/1 with Trample) to block.  He then plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on his 1/1 to become a 4/4 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my Rot Wolf gets dealt 4 damage and dies, I understand that, and his Elf gets 2 -1/-1 counters on it.  However, once the turn is over, Giant Growth wears off, and his Defiant Elf becomes -1/-1 and dies.  The question is, do I get to draw a card because the Elf was put into a graveyard and was dealt damage by Rot Wolf this turn? Or is it that because Rot Wolf was put into the graveyard before the Elf was, does his ability not enable me to draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2:&#xA;My Rot Wolf attacks, he blocks with his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; (2/2).  Both get dealt 2 damage and die.  In this case, however, both go into the graveyard at the same time, would I get to draw a card now? or does the Rot Wolf have to survive combat for me to draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T20:23:53.780" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T20:23:53.780" Title="Does Rot Wolf's ability work even if he dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2011-09-20T14:56:20.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly in your first scenario, the Rot Wolf's ability is long-gone and you wouldn't get to draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second scenario, I believe that the leave-the-battlefield ability triggers based on the game state immediately before the event that triggered it.  At that time, Rot Wolf &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; still on the battlefield and so you do get to draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T15:28:56.210" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T15:28:56.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4792" CreationDate="2011-09-20T15:07:33.297" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to your second scenario! Time to check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; again. This is a long one. Emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. &lt;strong&gt;However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially because the object with the ability may no longer be on the battlefield, may have moved to a hand or library, or may no longer be controlled by the appropriate player. The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/strong&gt; Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward.&#xA;  Example: Two creatures are on the battlefield along with an artifact that has the ability &quot;Whenever a creature is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, you gain 1 life.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;Someone plays a spell that destroys all artifacts, creatures, and enchantments. The artifact's ability triggers twice, even though the artifact goes to its owner's graveyard at the same time as the creatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we all agree that in your first example, the Rot Wolf is long dead and his ability means squat sitting in the graveyard when the Elf dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the second example, the Bear and the Rot Wolf die at the same time, so the Rot Wolf's ability triggers even though the wolf is on the way to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T11:46:06.947" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T11:46:06.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4797" CreationDate="2011-09-20T15:11:00.640" Score="6" ViewCount="18309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some hexproof creatures in my deck and several enchantments. What I wish to know that if I put an enchantment like &quot;Trollhide&quot; on my hexproof creature like &quot;Sacred Wolf&quot; can an opponent remove it from my Sacred Wolf with an enchantment-removing spell, or my enchantment becomes hexproof too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T04:31:14.163" Title="Removing enchantments from hexproof creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4796" CreationDate="2011-09-20T15:14:47.310" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The enchantment doesn't become hexproof.  It is only the creature that cannot be targeted by [an opponent's] spells and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So supposing that you have a spell that says &quot;destroy target enchantment&quot;.  This spell can remove an enchantment that's on a hexproof creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose that you had an (imaginary) spell that says &quot;exile all Auras on target creature&quot;.  This would not have any effect on your Trollhide-toting Sacred Wolf, because it needs to target the creature, not the enchantments, and this time this is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Since there's a bit of a mania for quoting the Comprehensive Rules at the moment, here's the section on hexproof:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.11b &quot;Hexproof&quot; on a permanent means &quot;This permanent can't be the&#xA;  target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all it means.  The hexproof doesn't confer any immunity from targeting on anything other than the permanent that has hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T15:28:35.290" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T15:28:35.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2011-09-20T15:53:39.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metal wolf!  Not only does he get the boost from the Mayor/Alpha, he also boosts the Mayor/Alpha if you set his type to Werewolf.  It's a win/win partnership!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've noticed that Pat has requested that we amalgamate our answers into one decisive one, so my final answer is this guy plus the two other cards I've posted so far.  A pretty good start to creating a nasty pumped-up werewolf package.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0Rvg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Adaptive Automaton&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qA21c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Brass Herald&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-09-20T21:23:46.400" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T21:23:46.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3302" CreationDate="2011-09-20T18:51:29.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest taking a look at Block Games, like Columbia Games' &quot;Pacific Victory&quot; for ideas, or GMT's &quot;Asia Engulfed&quot;, or &quot;Europe Engulfed&quot;. They allow you to have a very good fog of war, but play on the same map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried to do hidden-movement/moderated two-board stuff since the old days in 1984, when Axis &amp;amp; Allies was cardboard pieces on a plastic map.  I always thought due to the large scale of move squares, and fluffiness of the dice-per-figure mechanic/defender chooses hits, it's not worth the extra effort involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1843" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T14:03:55.593" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T14:03:55.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4669" CreationDate="2011-09-20T20:08:07.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multithread! While one player handles the Player cards, another handles the Epidemic cards and the starting diseases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's a little faster to set up the Player cards if you calculate the cards per pile before you get going, letting you deal out the piles one-at-a-time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-09-20T20:08:07.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-21T03:05:05.767" Score="13" ViewCount="41362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume the mistake is unintentional, what course of action should be taken when this occurs and is discovered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the person discovers themselves that they earlier made the mistake, is the penalty different than if an opponent discovers it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1582" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-09-29T05:37:21.963" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T05:37:21.963" Title="What is the penalty for failing to follow suit?" Tags="|bridge|trick-taking-games|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4802" CreationDate="2011-09-21T08:47:10.027" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Duplicate Bridge the penalty for a revoke (failing to follow suit) is very clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldbridge.org/departments/laws/2007LawsComplete.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; handle revokes in Laws 61 to 64.  Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laws_of_Duplicate_Bridge#Revoke&quot;&gt;summary of 61-64&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A revoke may be corrected (correct card substituted) without trick penalty before any player of the offending side plays to the next trick; otherwise, it becomes established. If a revoke is corrected, the exposed card becomes a penalty card and the opponents may change their played cards as they see fit (however, the revoking side may not take advantage of those seen cards—see Alcatraz coup). When a revoke is established, in general, one of subsequent tricks won by the offending side is transferred to the opponents. If the revoke card has won the trick, that trick is transferred too. (If the offending side did not win any subsequent tricks, no penalty is assessed). Additional tricks can be transferred if the revoke has caused more damage to the opponents than was redressed by those penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the revoke is not immediately corrected, there is no difference in penalties based on the person who establishes the revoke.  It makes no difference whether the mistake was intentional or unintentional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="1783" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T09:29:17.483" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T09:29:17.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4252" CreationDate="2011-09-21T09:44:15.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers, of course: but the &lt;em&gt;most important&lt;/em&gt; part of &quot;points above the line&quot; is enabling a penalty points system for bidding games you can't hope to make.  If only the points below the line counted, you could pre-emptively bid 7NT on any hand in which your opponents had the balance of the points.  This would be tactically sound, but make for very boring games.  With points above the line though, such behaviour (after doubling) earns your opponents a massive bonus, probably enough to win the rubber on its own.  And that's how it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondarily, I do think bonus points for making slam are really important.  To a beginner, a slam is a formidable proposition - usually you're happy bidding and making your 3NT, with a few overtricks, because visualising the slam is &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt;.  By making it supremely worthwhile in terms of point bonuses to find a slam if you have one, a real separation between the merely  okay players and the great players is created...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T09:44:15.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4904" CreationDate="2011-09-21T12:38:04.627" Score="9" ViewCount="6596" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a double faced planeswalker, like Garruk Relentless transforms into Garruk, the Veil Cursed there is no new loyalty symbol at the bottom of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vech4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Garruk Relentless&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does his current loyalty carry over or is there some new mechanic to deal with DFC Planeswalkers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:31:59.263" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T11:31:59.263" Title="What happens to loyalty counters on a double faced Planeswalker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2011-09-21T12:42:01.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/28285251/Innistrad_FAQ?post_id=506930013#506930013&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DCI Level 2 Judge &quot;Natedogg&quot;&lt;/a&gt; the loyalty counters from the front face transfer to the back face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You don't add or remove loyalty counters from Garruk Relentless when  he transforms into Garruk, the Veil-Cursed. In most cases, he'll have  one or two loyalty counters on him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's a natural follow up question about the one ability per turn use of a planeswalker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can't activate a loyalty ability of Garruk Relentless and later  that turn after he transforms activate a loyalty ability of Garruk, the  Veil-Cursed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T12:42:01.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2011-09-21T13:26:37.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the official Wizards site's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/157b&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;article about Double-Faced Card Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After a double-faced card transforms, it's still the same card, so any&#xA;  Auras, counters, or other effects stay right where they are (unless&#xA;  the double-faced card's characteristics have changed such that an Aura&#xA;  can no longer legally enchant it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This obviously includes a planeswalker's loyalty counters.  I think it's helpful to imagine the &quot;transform&quot; action as being a literal transform - the face of the card almost magically instantaneously changes from one aspect to another.  If you think of it over-literally as &quot;flipping the card over&quot; then it's logical to imagine everything falling off!  But this isn't what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T13:26:37.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4802" CreationDate="2011-09-21T13:31:10.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Failing to follow suit is called a &quot;revoke&quot; or &quot;renege&quot; when that person subsequently plays a card from that suit (assuming that the mistake was not discovered and corrected in time). The governing law is the 2017 amendment (to the earlier 2007 version) of &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentLibrary/laws/Law64.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Law 64&lt;/a&gt; of the ACBL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The penalty is &lt;strong&gt;normally&lt;/strong&gt; one trick. But there are two major exceptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) There could be a second trick per Law 64:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1, &quot;When a revoke is established, and the trick on which the revoke occurred was won by the offending player*, at the end of the play the trick on which the revoke occurred is transferred to the non-offending sidetogether with one of any subsequent tricks won by the offending side. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2. and the trick on which the revoke occurred was not won by the offending player* then, if&#xA;  the offending side won that or any subsequent trick, after play ends one trick is transferred tothe non-offending side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: 2), above, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentLibrary/laws/Law64.pdfps://www.bridgewebs.com/stanmore/Revoke%20-%20New%20Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;effected&lt;/a&gt; by placing the reneged card face up on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) If &quot;there is no rectification&quot; (e.g. because the offending side loses the reneged trick, and &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; tricks subsequent to the discovery of the renege), the penalty is zero. (The offense didn't cause any damage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2019-08-31T02:11:08.430" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T02:11:08.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4641" CreationDate="2011-09-21T13:34:28.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played three games now (two games with two players, one solo), they seem to average around 30-45 minutes (the first game took longer, unsurprisingly).  Two hours seems excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T13:34:28.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4667" CreationDate="2011-09-21T14:18:38.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Far be it for me to answer my own question, but...  I've play tested the partial rules from wikipedia with my children, and have worked out the following fuller set of rules, if it's helpful (also trying to make it more rummy-like):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For 2 players, each player is dealt 10 cards.  For &gt;2 players, each player is dealt 7 cards;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players immediately put down all cards of the same value (example, two 6's or three Kings) face up in piles in front of them;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once everyone has put down their starting-hand matches, players take it in turn to put down cards matching other people's matches (&lt;em&gt;this differs from the wikipedia rules: wikipedia said to do this extra laying off all at the same time - that becomes rather frantic with children as they argue who put down a card first if there is more than one match&lt;/em&gt;).  If they lay down a match, they take the pile to their part of the table;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once all above starting play has stopped, the dealer hands out a new card to each player in turn, and the pile building and taking is repeated by each player in turn until either:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all cards have been dealt and no more matches have been played (most of the time, all cards would be matched by now, but sometimes they can't be, e.g. with 4 players each player could end up with one of the same card number);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a player manages to lay off all the cards from their hand (&lt;em&gt;this is again different to wikipedia's rules, but makes the game shorter if you have young children playing - keeps their attention a bit better by allowing more rounds to be played&lt;/em&gt;);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once either of the above conditions is met, the cards in front of each player are counted (count of number of cards, not face values).  The player with the most cards wins.  Optionally, you could subtract any cards left in players hands from their score if using the second of the above ending conditions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My children picked up these rules pretty well and really enjoy playing it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T14:18:38.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2011-09-21T17:45:20.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Howlpack Alpha, you get a free creature token every turn for zero mana. It's crying out for a Juniper Order Ranger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N0kzm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Juniper Order Ranger&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That guy's going to get large. So now you're getting a lot of creatures with counters on them. Maybe they're still too small… And maybe you still don't have enough of them…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gLTiH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Plaguemaw Beast&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIC6r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Doubling Season&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Just a note on how insane Doubling Season is…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Howlpack Alpha + Doubling Season = two effectively 3/3 wolves every turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add J.O. ranger = two effectively 5/5 wolves every turn, ranger grows +2/+2 each turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add Plaguemaw Beast = Sac. a wolf to grow all other wolves and ranger +2/+2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-09-21T21:06:47.737" LastActivityDate="2011-09-21T21:06:47.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2011-09-22T07:18:16.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poker is a single game played with a cumulative score over a lifetime.  It becomes boring without money because the score=money distinction has been seared into a poker player for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hustling (losing small to win big later) applies strongly enough to a &quot;play money&quot; game, that it's never possible to determine someone's true skill when money is not involved.  This also reduces the enjoyment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1848" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T07:18:16.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2011-09-22T09:04:39.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little bit amazed that no one has mentioned &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; yet.  This (my favourite game, not coincidentally) plays supremely well with any number from 1 to 5, by dint of &lt;em&gt;having a different, carefully thought-out board setup&lt;/em&gt; for each of those different numbers.  In addition, the Occupation cards subdivide into ones appropriate only for solo or 2-person play, for 3+ players, and for 4-5 players; thus, effects that would be silly for two players (auctioning things off, to pluck an example out of the air) can be limited only to numbers of players that accommodate them well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of games are accidentally good for both small and large numbers of players.  Agricola's designers have spent a lot of time making sure it's good for different-sized groups - and the pretty decent solo option has got to be the icing on the cake.  It really is an amazing feat of game design, regularly coming near the top of all-time-best-boardgame lists: if you haven't tried it yet, what are you waiting for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T09:04:39.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2793" CreationDate="2011-09-22T17:56:57.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionsimulator.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geronimoo's Dominion Simulator&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the current Dominion simulator of choice, at least by the guys on dominionstrategy.com.  It has only existed since June, I think, so didn't get mentioned in the accepted answer which is otherwise very comprehensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1672" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T17:56:57.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4828" CreationDate="2011-09-22T19:33:25.683" Score="5" ViewCount="3559" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2011/sep/22/zia-mahmood-bridge-fantoni-nunes?INTCMP=SRCH&quot;&gt;Zia Mahmood's Bridge column for the Guardian newspaper today&lt;/a&gt; tells of two players with world titles to their names, Fulvio Fantoni and Claudio Nunes, who apparently have an intriguing bidding system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They play a bidding system that is unique in top-level bridge: opening bids at the one level are forcing, while opening bids at the two level are not weak - they just show not enough points to open at the one level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example deal, Fantoni and Nunes quickly jump to 3S with 11 points between them (!) as North and South, stymying poor old West who is holding 21 points, and ends up in an unmakeable 6H due to lack of bidding space (6C or 7C would have been much better).  Score one for the rogue system!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the key features of this interesting system?  According to a link kindly provided by Aryabhata, some people are wary of &quot;Fantunes&quot; because of its high amount of variance.  It must be possible to get to the very top using it, but could this be more down to Fantoni and Nunes' playing skill than the strength of the system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T15:48:14.567" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T15:48:14.567" Title="What Are The Key Features Of The &quot;Fantunes&quot; Bidding System?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4823" CreationDate="2011-09-22T20:43:17.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This system seems to follow the motto, &quot;If something is worth doing, it is worth doing well.&quot; That is, it encourages a lot of &quot;weak two bidding&quot; for &quot;pre-emptive&quot; purposes. That could include two clubs, since one club is now forcing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it might mean that &quot;one&quot; level bids need to be stronger, since they ARE forcing. Basically, you need to have a hand you're comfortable going with to the two level (or one no trump) opposite someone who has nothing. People who already play a forcing one club (one diamond means &quot;I have nothing&quot;) might not mind this feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These features seem to follow the minority of players (including yours truly) who like to substitute trumps for high card points. Larry Cohen and his partner Marty Bergman are another example. The idea is if you have five good trumps, you can (statistically) expect partner to have three, so you don't mind going straight to the two level with five GOOD ones, such as AKJxx, or even AKxxx, and maybe one side honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I were playing this system, I wouldn't open at the TWO level with Qxxxx, and (defensive) values OUTSIDE my suit. Fantoni was a bit lucky to find his partner with three, and the ability to continue the pre-empt to the three level. Even so, they did NOT have the balance of power in the spade suit (eight cards plus two HCP, ten total, out of the sum of 13 cards and 10 HCP, or 23). In my book, Qxxxx is barely enough for a conventional ONE spade call (with the usual 13 points). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True, they got away with it, but West should have doubled. East could have left it in (down four, 800 points), or more likely taken it out, ending in five clubs for the same 800 (100 points for game, 700 for a vulnerable rubber). they had a slam in clubs, but not necessarily a biddable one, so it didn't cost them that. But since East-West SHOULD have earned 800 points either way, Fantoni and Nunez were playing with &quot;house&quot; money when their bid &quot;gummed up the works.&quot; (Heads I win, tails I break even.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T20:43:17.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2011-09-22T23:03:51.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders&quot;&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plays &lt;strong&gt;2-7&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't slow down with more players because turns are simultaneous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bonus: Highly portable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastActivityDate="2011-09-22T23:03:51.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4785" CreationDate="2011-09-23T13:07:26.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The change to &quot;Werewolf&quot; took place on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/161d&amp;amp;page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thursday, September 22nd, 2011&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T13:07:26.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4823" CreationDate="2011-09-23T13:43:29.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the weak NT, these 10-13 two-bids not only deprive the opponents of bidding space when it is their hand, but they also define opener's hand well enough that responder can often place the contract when it is our hand.  They do play a very artificial system of responses over those two-bids in order to sort it all out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minimum 4441 openers don't fit in either their two-bid or one-bid openings, however.  They open them 1NT, but that is not ACBL legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1852" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T13:43:29.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4832" CreationDate="2011-09-23T14:54:26.890" Score="6" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use Wargames Research Group rules, mainly for modern warfare (post-WWII) wargames. Does anyone know if they are still available, or maybe a more recent update of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T16:03:01.520" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T20:20:08.483" Title="Are Wargames Research Group rules still available?" Tags="|wargames-research-group|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-23T20:09:19.107" Score="5" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are no cities on the board, barbarian strength is rated at zero.  So automatically the players have tied or beaten the barbarians.  Are progress cards allocated under these circumstances?  If there are activated knights on the board, can a victory point be achieved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1853" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T18:17:11.220" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T18:17:11.220" Title="Are progress cards awarded if the barbarian strength is 0?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4870" CreationDate="2011-09-23T20:22:00.170" Score="8" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're a declarer, and West leads the queen of spades, with dummy showing the Kx of the suit, while you have Axx in the closed hand, you might take the trick with the K from the dummy, thereby not exposing the A that you hold. That, I can understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, this concept is more of a defensive maneuver, where both defending hands are closed. In that case, cards can't really be &quot;known&quot; but can merely be inferred (e.g. when someone fails to cover a card that's being finessed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, playing certain cards that are &quot;known&quot; is considered a form of, or at least related to, falsecarding. But if a card that is played is &quot;known,&quot; how can it be &quot;false?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-12-08T16:10:20.697" Title="In Bridge, What Is &quot;Playing the Card You Are Known to Hold?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4829" CreationDate="2011-09-23T20:30:46.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are still available, though free versions may be hard to track down. The best place to start would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wrg.me.uk/WRG.net/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WRG's own website&lt;/a&gt;, though copies are for sale on Amazon and elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T20:20:08.483" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T20:20:08.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4830" CreationDate="2011-09-23T20:51:10.007" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is answered by the online Catan &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/24-cities-and-knights/1016-barbarians-ii-players-win-can-the-players-win-against-the-barbarians-if-there-is-not-one-single-city-on-catan.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the players win against the barbarians if there is not one single city on Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T20:51:10.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4836" CreationDate="2011-09-23T22:14:00.933" Score="1" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;Artifacts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2x Birthing Pod&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2x Thrun, the Last Troll&#xA;4x Acidic Slime&#xA;4x Cudgel Troll&#xA;3x Dungrove Elder&#xA;2x Elvish Archdruid&#xA;2x Garruk's Companion&#xA;4x Llanowar Elves&#xA;2x Primeval Titan&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Land&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;22x Forest&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2x Genesis Wave&#xA;2x Green Sun's Zenith&#xA;2x Lead the Stampede&#xA;2x Beast Within&#xA;2x Hunter's Insight&#xA;3x Rampant Growth&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Zendikar/M11 rotates out I did not include  Leatherback Baloth into my deck, do you have some ideas for replacing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T08:54:04.853" Title="How to replace Leatherback Baloth in the post-Zendikar environment in a deck of this type?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4780" CreationDate="2011-09-23T23:39:26.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damage prevention effects do indeed prevent all five forms the damage can take: damage marked on a creature, -1/-1 counters on a creature (from sources with wither or infect), life loss of a player, poison counters on a player (from sources with infect), or removal of loyalty counters from a planeswalker.  This is all governed by rule 119 of the comprehensive rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, damage prevention does not prevent all forms of -1/-1 or poison counters.  For example, Caress of Phyrexia and Crypt Cobra give a player poison counters directly, without using damage.  Likewise, many spells and abilities can give a creature -1/-1 counters directly, instead of through damage.  Virulent Wound can do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Marsh Viper, though it doesn't have infect, nevertheless only deals poison counters when it deals damage, so damage prevention will prevent poison from it.  The same thing applies to creatures with poisonous.  The key here, however, is that the amount of prevention does not relate to the number of poison counters prevented; instead, all damage from the source must be prevented to avoid the trigger condition for poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="145" LastActivityDate="2011-09-23T23:39:26.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2011-09-24T05:45:28.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, assuming you're happy with how the deck was working up to now, the most important thing is to preserve the mana curve.  That is made extra important of course by the use of birthing pod.  Once you constrain to 3-cost green-only creatures, the list of options in standard is quite manageable.  Especially considering you can exclude the infect creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=t%3A%22creature%22+%28c%3Ac+or+c%21g%29+cmc%3D3+f%3Astandard&amp;amp;s=cname&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;p=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/query?q=t%3A%22creature%22+%28c%3Ac+or+c%21g%29+cmc%3D3+f%3Astandard&amp;amp;s=cname&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;p=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say a fourth Dungrove Elder is an obvious recommendation.  I also like Sylvok Replica a lot for this deck.  The option to use him as an artifact removal is great, and he still finds Thrun for you if your opponent has no artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T05:45:28.200" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1039" CreationDate="2011-09-24T09:11:57.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9440/maharaja-the-game-of-palace-building-in-india&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maharaja&lt;/a&gt; has no random elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T09:11:57.770" CommentCount="3" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-09-24T09:11:57.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4834" CreationDate="2011-09-24T14:16:50.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One obvious tack, after a rotation, is to look at cards that will be rotating in that may fill the hole left by the cards rotating out.  In the 3cc range for a mono green deck, this card immediately caught my eye:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Splinterfright (2G)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trample.  Splinterfright's power and toughness are each equal to the&#xA;  number of creature cards in your graveyard. At the beginning of your&#xA;  upkeep, put the top two cards of your library into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, this doesn't look too bad in a green deck packing a lot of creatures, though it would probably work better with lots of tramplers (4 Garruk's Companions would be a good start):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Elder of Laurels (2G)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2/3.  3G: Target creature gets +X/+X until end of turn, where X is the&#xA;  number of creatures you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not in the 3cc slot, sadly, but this card looks like the poster child for mono green horde decks in the new set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Essence of the Wild (3GGG):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6/6.  Creatures you control enter the battlefield as a copy of Essence&#xA;  of the Wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately all of these are rares or mythics, but it's that or go werewolves basically...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-24T14:16:50.310" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-24T18:14:54.777" Score="6" ViewCount="1520" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the arsonist against the Hedge Tavern, where does the Hedge Tavern card go?  Does it go to the bottom of an &quot;Era of Turmoil&quot; stack or does it go back to its original starting position face up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-09-25T18:47:22.163" LastActivityDate="2018-06-18T05:56:01.407" Title="Arsonist vs Hedge Tavern in Rivals for Catan" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4844" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-24T20:14:00.233" Score="5" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent pulled the Trade Master card during phase 3.  Because the card has the word &quot;immediately&quot; on it, she believed that she could play it.  Yet the rules say that in phase 3 you cannot play it.  Can she play this card during phase 3 or phase 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1856" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:08:32.120" Title="Interpretation of the word &quot;immediately&quot; in Phase 3 or Phase 4" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2011-09-25T07:35:54.023" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24068/shadow-hunters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadow Hunters&lt;/a&gt; plays 4-8 well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I would also suggest that a deck of regular paying cards can service a wide variety of needs.  Rummy variants for 2, Specially designed 3 player games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ninety-nine_%28trick-taking_card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ninety-Nine&lt;/a&gt; for 3-players, Hearts/Spades/Bridge for 4, Specially designed 5 player games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.georgejas.com/rook/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rook&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat&lt;/a&gt; has a list of games by # of Players, which can be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T07:35:54.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4846" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-25T09:48:28.693" Score="9" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I have played the game Bohnanza a lot and we have bought the version Bohnanza: Al Cabohne. But somehow the game always beats us. Does anybody know a good tactic to win this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1846" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T15:29:14.470" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T17:43:56.087" Title="How can we win at Bohnanza: Al Cabohne?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4844" CreationDate="2011-09-25T10:46:16.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see any reason why Trade Master would circumvent the normal rules for playing an Action.  I think all that the &quot;immediately&quot; implies is that, when you play the card during phase 2, you get the resources straightaway at that point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why this particular card would use the word &quot;immediately&quot; when all action cards are specified by the rules as taking &quot;immediate effect&quot; isn't very clear - but in situations like this I usually assume a slightly loose translation from the original German, rather than reading a special meaning in.  Perhaps a native speaker could tell us what the wording on the German cards are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T10:46:16.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4843" CreationDate="2011-09-25T10:51:13.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would play as per the wording on the Arsonist card.  Just because the Hedge Tavern has an unusual starting placement, in a face-up stack, doesn't mean it should be exempted from subsequent effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that there is an stack available with the same back as the Hedge Tavern, I see no reason why you shouldn't follow the course of action prescribed by the Arsonist card, and put the Hedge Tavern to the bottom of such a stack of the opponent's choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-25T10:51:13.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4906" CreationDate="2011-09-25T17:47:20.917" Score="10" ViewCount="4480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing Magic the Gathering for several years now and I have a solid understanding of basic strategy and deck building. Until now I have only played against a single opponent. Magic the Gathering supports games with more than 2 players as well and I want to explore such variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing two friends of mine and I will try is playing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic%3a_The_Gathering_formats#Multiplayer&quot;&gt;free-for-all&lt;/a&gt; (3 players) where everybody can attack every other player. This changes the game a lot. It feels like attacking gets almost impossible and your best chance is to wall yourself in and hope for the best. Every fight between two players will usually help the third player the most. At least that's what I expect from a free-for-all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I dive into this experience heads on, I want to know what the typical mistakes are, that a beginner should avoid in MTG games with more than 2 player. I am mostly concerned about deck building and game strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T03:00:23.443" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T03:00:23.443" Title="Mistakes a beginner should avoid in Magic the Gathering with more than 2 players" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4849" CreationDate="2011-09-25T22:54:15.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards which affect &lt;strong&gt;each player&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;each creature&lt;/strong&gt; become much more valuable than cards which target only 1 creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly global effects can become detrimental.  For example, in a multi player game it is much more likely you will face an opponent playing some of the same colour mana as you are.  Cards like Mana Flare or Gauntlet of Power can help your opponents as much as they help you.  Similarly with things like Bad Moon.  You can use these, but they also make good cards to rotate to the sideboard if you see they aren't helping you more than they're helping your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game strategy becomes much more diplomatic because you don't want to have both opponents attacking you each turn.  Managing the diplomacy becomes critical when you decide to strike at one or the other.  Often you should try to land a crippling blow when your opponents have used their resources against one another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T06:10:20.287" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T06:10:20.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-26T05:00:20.337" Score="4" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either kill the dragon by attacking it or by destroying the Gravestorms Phlactery Token.  My question is how do you destroy it.  There are no directions in the rule book or adventure book as how to accomplish the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1857" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T11:09:11.143" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T13:21:19.877" Title="In the sixth adventure, how do you destroy the Gravestorms Phylactery Token?" Tags="|castle-ravenloft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4853" CreationDate="2011-09-26T09:05:24.910" Score="17" ViewCount="6214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why did the creators of the game Pandemic decide that the starting position for each game would be Atlanta rather than any of the other possible cities on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T02:29:32.937" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T02:29:32.937" Title="Why is the Pandemic starting position always Atlanta?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4852" CreationDate="2011-09-26T10:15:21.867" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because Atlanta is the home of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centers_for_Disease_Control_and_Prevention&quot;&gt;CDC&lt;/a&gt;. And since &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/WeAllLiveInAmerica&quot;&gt;we all live in America&lt;/a&gt; they are responsible for diseases everywhere...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I just checked the English and German rules and now understand your confusion. The German rules explicitly say that this is why players start in Atlanta. For some reason the English rules skip that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Danach nimmt sich jeder Spieler die farblich passende Spielfigur und stellt sie in Atlanta auf, wo sich das Zentrum für Seuchenkontrolle und -prävention (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention) befindet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which roughly translates to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then every player takes the matching pawn and places it on Atlanta - where the CDC is based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T06:29:20.860" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T06:29:20.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4851" CreationDate="2011-09-26T13:21:19.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phylactery doesn't have an AC iirc, so you can essentially destroy it just by attacking it with an at-will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T13:21:19.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4856" CreationDate="2011-09-26T13:21:28.140" Score="-1" ViewCount="9887" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4638/does-wrath-of-god-really-destroy-creatures-with-shroud&quot;&gt;Does Wrath of God really destroy creatures with shroud?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1rmqh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Day of Judgment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or other similar cards remove any hexproof / shrouded creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T03:15:30.980" Title="Does Day of Judgment remove hexproof / shrouded creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-09-26T13:49:06.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4855" CreationDate="2011-09-26T13:27:30.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  Since the creature is not targeted, but is being affected by a global property neither hexproof nor shroud offer any protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.17a Shroud is a static ability. “Shroud” means “This permanent or player can’t be the target of spells or abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.11b “Hexproof” on a permanent means “This permanent can’t be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases &quot;not being targeted&quot; is the key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T13:27:30.367" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4864" CreationDate="2011-09-26T16:24:06.420" Score="4" ViewCount="6981" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like my games last a long time and I don't do that much damage. Is that what it's supposed to feel like when using a control deck? How can I win more efficiently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Lands&#xA;19x Islands&#xA;1x  Glacial Fortress&#xA;1x  Terramorphic Expanse&#xA;&#xA;Artifacts&#xA;1x  Adaptive Automaton&#xA;1x  Scepter of Empires&#xA;1x  Throne of Empires&#xA;1x  Isochron Scepter&#xA;2x  Elixir of Immortality&#xA;3x  Kraken's Eye&#xA;&#xA;Blue Creatures&#xA;1x  Wall of Frost&#xA;1x  Augury Owl&#xA;1x  Zephyr Sprite&#xA;2x  Aether Adept&#xA;2x  Aven Fleetwing&#xA;4x  Skywinder Drake&#xA;3x  Belltower Sphinx&#xA;1x  Phantasmal Image&#xA;&#xA;Blue Spells&#xA;4x  Mind Control&#xA;4x  Cancel&#xA;4x  Unsummon&#xA;4x  Ice Cage&#xA;2x  Jace's Erasure&#xA;2x  Negate&#xA;2x  Mana Leak&#xA;2x  Sleep&#xA;1x  Ponder&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1858" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:15:56.400" LastActivityDate="2017-07-17T16:33:01.213" Title="How can a blue control deck be made more efficient?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4862" CreationDate="2011-09-26T16:36:35.303" Score="9" ViewCount="37389" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played different mono-red decks in the past and my main problem with all of them is playing against decks with strong enchantments (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83027&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Red&lt;/a&gt;). As soon as this enchantment is out on the battlefield, I have lost. This can be played on turn 2, and my opponent can even mulligan to increase his chance of having this card in his starting hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While playing mono-red, I don't have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterspell%5d&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;s and enchantment destroyers. How do I handle these threats? I am looking for ideas legal in Standard, and legal in Legacy. &quot;Red must be fast and win before enchantments are out&quot; is not a good solution, because in the example above the enchantment can hit in round 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T13:41:23.920" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T20:20:26.557" Title="How do I deal with Enchantments while playing mono-red?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-09-26T16:46:19.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of red (and black)'s weaknesses is not being able to deal with enchantments. If you're insistent on remaining mono-red, and you're playing with Legacy-legal cards, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236466&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chaos Warp&lt;/a&gt; is one of your only options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to (pre-&lt;em&gt;Innistrad&lt;/em&gt;) Standard, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/owens-a-win-mono-red-in-standard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this mono-red deck&lt;/a&gt; seems to do fine without enchantment removal. I'm not convinced that red's inability to deal with enchantments is a problem in this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in post-&lt;em&gt;Innistrad&lt;/em&gt; Standard, if any decks with problem enchantments end up being top tier, one possibility is to play Boros (red/white) instead, and use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silverchase Fox&lt;/a&gt; as a sideboard card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-26T16:55:06.253" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T16:55:06.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4852" CreationDate="2011-09-26T16:47:13.553" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Atlanta is US headquarters for disease control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any gameplay related reason as to why the game would not function equally well by moving the starting position to any other city of your choosing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, note that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essen&quot;&gt;Essen&lt;/a&gt; is a map location. It's a fairly minor German city of around 500.000 inhabitants, but included in many games because of its relation to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.internationalespieltage.de/e000.php4&quot;&gt;The Spiel fair&lt;/a&gt; (the world's largest board game trade show)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1080" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T16:47:13.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-09-26T17:02:00.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For white enchantments, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ia/en/170.html&quot;&gt;Anarchy&lt;/a&gt; should do the trick in Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T17:02:00.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-09-26T17:45:42.783" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few artifact answers to Enchantments in standard. Red will have access to those dealing with permanents, which are going to be slower. However, there &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5Badd%5D%20%5Bmana%5D%20%5Bpool%5D&amp;amp;color=%20%5BR%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Standard%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;are &quot;ramp&quot; cards&lt;/a&gt; in Standard for red that help you get them out more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt;, can come out quickly, but takes time to &quot;charge up&quot; to the point where it can deal with more expensive enchantments. Although slow, it also deals with other permanents (eg. planeswalkers). If you get it out before the enchantment or planeswalker and charge it up, it can be a threat on the board causing your opponent to think twice before casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can ramp into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spine of Ish Sah&lt;/a&gt;, say with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geosurge&lt;/a&gt; on turn 4, you will be well on your way to victory, and getting rid of that pesky enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I think the most efficient way to deal with enchantments in standard, if you insist on mono-red, is to use the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSylvok%20Replica%5d&quot;&gt;Sylvok Replica&lt;/a&gt;, and access green mana through &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5Badd%5D%20%5B%7BG%7D%5D%20%5Bor%5D%20%5B%7BR%7D%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Standard%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dual lands&lt;/a&gt;  and/or a colourless ramp like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214344&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alloy Myr&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Manalith&lt;/a&gt; or even &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213776&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sphere of the Suns&lt;/a&gt; that also helps you power your X burn spells and getting bigger threats out more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at that point you may as well just splash green dual lands or ramps and put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNaturalize%5d&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; on the sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Legacy, if it's Blue enchantments you're concerned about, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=109752&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jaya Ballard, Task Mage&lt;/a&gt; is a great choice. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aura Barbs&lt;/a&gt; punishes those who dare use enchantments against you. Of course, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Larry Niven's Disk&lt;/a&gt; has been the go-to solution for red burn decks since forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I don't agree with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Red must be fast and win before enchantments are out&quot; is not a good solution, because in the example above the enchantment can hit in round 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meh, CoP:Red isn't in Standard anymore, and even in Legacy the opponent is unlikely to have enough mana to deal with all your threats if you have a red weenie swarm, or save some of that red magic for when he's tapped out. You also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243486&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;colourless&lt;/a&gt; options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red decks still win because they're fast. They generally aren't afraid of many enchantments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T13:45:20.750" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:45:20.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2011-09-26T20:31:45.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're genuinely that afraid of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCircle%5d%2b%5bof%5d%2b%5bProtection%5d%2b%5bRed%5d&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Red&lt;/a&gt;, fight fire with fire and resolve a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/150.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Manabarbs&lt;/a&gt; or three; back in standard as of M12.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, there are many, many red cards in the history of Magic that specify that their damage can't be prevented.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBanefire%5d&quot;&gt;Banefire&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDemonfire%5d&quot;&gt;Demonfire&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEverlasting%20Torment%5d&quot;&gt;Everlasting Torment&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExcruciator%5d&quot;&gt;Excruciator&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFlames%20of%20the%20Blood%20Hand%5d&quot;&gt;Flames of the Blood Hand&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFlaring%20Pain%5d&quot;&gt;Flaring Pain&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeyline%20of%20Punishment%5d&quot;&gt;Leyline of Punishment&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Surge%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Surge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnstable%20Footing%5d&quot;&gt;Unstable Footing&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUrza%27s%5d%2b%5bRage%5d&quot;&gt;Urza&amp;#39;s Rage&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T13:59:18.510" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:59:18.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4857" CreationDate="2011-09-26T22:14:13.070" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer may have gotten a little out of hand... what can I say, I'm procrastinating ;-) plus I couldn't resist a chance to share my love of control decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems like my games last a long time and I don't do that much damage, is that what its supposed to feel like when using a counter deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, do you mean you're not doing much damage &lt;em&gt;quickly&lt;/em&gt;, or not doing much damage &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;? In the latter case, that's a problem because you never get to kill your opponent, but the former case is exactly how a control deck is supposed to work. Your game plan is to establish control over the game: get to the point where you can counter, destroy, exile, or otherwise eliminate any spell or permanent that poses a threat to you. Once you do that, it doesn't matter how you win or how long it takes you to do it (although there is something to be said for not letting your opponents get bored).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the downside of playing a control deck is that you can get overwhelmed in the first few turns of the game, before you're able to establish control. So to make a good control deck, you need to make every card count in the early game. For one thing, that means using lots of cheap counterspells. I notice that you've got a couple of cards in the deck which aren't Standard-legal, so I'm assuming you're drawing from the entire Magic card pool, and in that case the #1 most important spell you should be playing is the original &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202437&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241831&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt; is probably the other staple of most good counterspell decks. I see you have a couple Mana Leaks already, but I'd suggest &quot;upgrading&quot; to 4 of each card if you can get them. Beyond that, you want an assortment of different kinds of counterspells for different situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheap or alternate-costed counterspells to support you through the first couple of turns:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189255&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222766&quot;&gt;Foil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159092&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201160&quot;&gt;Force Spike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230066&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=178144&quot;&gt;Spell Pierce&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107281&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Utility counterspells that have side effects:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141819&quot;&gt;Cryptic Command&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=134749&quot;&gt;Discombobulate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4695&quot;&gt;Dismiss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129022&quot;&gt;Dismal Failure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241985&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5157&quot;&gt;Forbid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193469&quot;&gt;Lay Bare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201156&quot;&gt;Mana Drain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=12376&quot;&gt;Miscalculation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74500&quot;&gt;Quash&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83230&quot;&gt;Rewind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=110499&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt; spells for versatility:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189237&quot;&gt;Condescend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74128&quot;&gt;Disrupting Shoal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=126151&quot;&gt;Logic Knot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=109707&quot;&gt;Spell Burst&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these are rare and really expensive ($$, not mana, e.g. Force of Will is probably a $150-ish card), so I gave you a bunch of choices. There are others as well, which you can find &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5bcounter%5d+%5bspell%5d&amp;amp;type=+%5b%22Instant%22%5d&quot;&gt;on Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;, but these are the ones I'd consider most potentially useful for a mono-blue deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases you can choose between different counterspells in each group based on which of their side effects is most useful to your deck, or what you expect to play against, or what you're able to acquire, but generally for a counter-heavy deck you'd probably want 2-4 from the first list (that is, 2-4 slots in your deck), 4-5 from the second list, and optionally 1 or 2 of the &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt; spells. Combined with 4 Counterspell and 4 Mana Leak, that gives you 15-20 counters total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing to think about is your removal. You won't be able to counter every spell, so you need some way of dealing with permanents that sneak through the cracks. Unfortunately, blue isn't very good at this, so if you want to stick to one color, you're not going to have access to the best removal options. One of the best blue cards available to deal with permanents is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4691&quot;&gt;Capsize&lt;/a&gt;, which lets you repeatedly bounce a permanent until you're able to counter its spell. You'll probably also have to dip into artifacts, for things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212637&quot;&gt;Nevinyrral's Disk&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205482&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt;. Since creatures tend to be the most annoying permanents, it's fine to include a couple of creature control cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238572&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205120&quot;&gt;Sleep&lt;/a&gt; (note that usually only one or the other of these will be good, depending on what kind of deck you're playing against: Mind Control against big creatures, Sleep against weenies), but I wouldn't go overboard on them. I think your current decklist uses too many of these, since they're not that useful against decks that can do things without creatures, and besides, that's what the counterspells are for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another key component of any good control deck is card drawing and filtering. The reason here is that, since your deck is so focused on preventing your opponent from doing stuff, you always need to have at least as many counterspells or removal spells as they have action spells, and in order to make sure of that, you need access to more cards than your opponent. Recently, planeswalkers have been doing well at this; in particular, any of the three versions of Jace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205960&quot;&gt;Jace Beleren&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=195297&quot;&gt;Jace, the Mind Sculptor&lt;/a&gt; (still rather expensive despite being banned, but it's &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; good)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238263&quot;&gt;Jace, Memory Adept&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=106651&quot;&gt;Whispers of the Muse&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=21285&quot;&gt;Accumulated Knowledge&lt;/a&gt; were popular choices for card draw. These days, people mostly use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205019&quot;&gt;Preordain&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244313&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;. You can supplement those with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220268&quot;&gt;Azure Mage&lt;/a&gt;, which is not only reusable but also gives you a creature to attack or block with. Of course there are many other choices, which you can look up &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5bdraw%5d+%5bcard%5d&amp;amp;color=+%5bU%5d&quot;&gt;on Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you need to figure out a way to win. Again, since it shouldn't matter what your deck does once you have control, you need to think about what will be best at protecting you in the early game. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236457&quot;&gt;Belltower Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; is not bad if you're pursuing a mill strategy, though it is a little expensive. The thing to keep in mind here is that once you've fit in the counterspells, the removal, the card draw, and of course lands, there's not going to be much room left in your deck for win conditions, so you need to pick a win condition that basically ends the game as soon as you cast it, or does double duty by also filling one of the other roles in your deck (such as Azure Mage, which helps you draw cards while also being a creature, or the Worldwake man lands - but those are all double-colored).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, let's look at your decklist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;19x Islands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Glacial Fortress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Terramorphic Expanse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With no white cards, there's no reason to include Glacial Fortress, and since you only have one color of mana, Terramorphic Expanse is pretty useless as well - unless you also have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197787&quot;&gt;Halimar Depths&lt;/a&gt;, then it lets you shuffle away unwanted cards. Also, counterspell decks are pretty mana-intensive, so you should have a lot more than 21 lands; I'd suggest around 26. You can include some specialty lands that help with the aspects of your game plan, such as Halimar Depths (filtering), &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197853&quot;&gt;Quicksand&lt;/a&gt; (removal), or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222730&quot;&gt;Stalking Stones&lt;/a&gt; (win condition), but for mana production I'd stick with just Islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Artifacts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Adaptive Automaton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Scepter of Empires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Throne of Empires&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Isochron Scepter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Elixir of Immortality&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3x  Kraken's Eye&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throne of Empires is a great win condition because it can produce a whole swarm of creatures while only taking up a single slot in your deck. Other than that, most of these are probably not helping you. Isochron Scepter can have a neat interaction with cheap counterspells but I don't see it being that useful most of the time, since running out of cards should not be your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blue Creatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Wall of Frost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Augury Owl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Zephyr Sprite&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Aether Adept&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Aven Fleetwing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4x  Skywinder Drake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3x  Belltower Sphinx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Phantasmal Image&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these, think about what creatures can advance your game plan, like Azure Mage (as I mentioned above). Most of these creatures don't really do much to help you out there. Aether Adept is sort of removal-like, but usually your opponent can just replay the creature you bounced on the next turn, and then all you got is a 2/2 for 3 mana and perhaps a turn off from being attacked. While that's not &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt;, it's not particularly exciting either. Phantasmal Image is particularly iffy because your opponent has a surefire way to destroy it which your counterspells can't even stop. I'd leave it out unless you have something really cool for it to copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blue Spells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4x  Mind Control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4x  Cancel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4x  Unsummon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4x  Ice Cage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Jace's Erasure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Negate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Mana Leak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2x  Sleep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x  Ponder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I think you have too many Mind Controls. You only want to be stealing your opponent's biggest and best creatures; it should be something that really makes it worth spending 5 mana to get it. Most things are better off being countered. Unsummon seems lackluster for the same reason as Aether Adept, and Ice Cage for the same reason as Phantasmal Image. Jace's Erasure is okay if you're pursuing a mill strategy, but it doesn't do anything else to directly help you, so I think you can do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2011-09-26T22:14:13.070" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4871" CreationDate="2011-09-27T06:39:22.643" Score="3" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a property specifies 2, 4 and 7 millions for 1, 2 and 3 properties respectively - do I calculate the rent owed once per property group (ie. 4 millions for 2 properties) or individually for each property (ie. 2x4 millions for 2 properties)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say it's the former but I'm not a 100% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:23:08.670" Title="In Monopoly Deal, does the rent apply to a whole group or each card individually?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-27T10:50:19.667" Score="3" ViewCount="8580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Naturally when you make a new deck, you test it on your friends but mine have all stabilised their tournament decks now and the game ends so quickly that I don't get a feel for how my deck flows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is if there is ways of testing decks to see their potential without another player. I really need to give the deck a thorough test so I can see what cards don't fit and which combos are better than expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people play games against themselves but I don't believe this works very well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What methods do tournament players use to test their decks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that simply playing games is not an acceptable answer as I do not know people that will just play for fun; they are all super competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-27T17:01:22.227" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T07:01:52.170" Title="What are the possible ways to test a deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2011-09-27T13:15:48.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different ways of testing that you can do, but none of them are as effective as playing real games against other people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Play without an opponent. I usually play new decks over and over without an opponent to see how the basic idea works out. Just draw and play and see how many rounds it would take you to win on average. Do your combos work out as you had hoped for? Do you have too much or too little mana available? Adjust your deck until you are satisfied with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Analyze the meta-game you are playing in. What are other players going to play against you? Try to identify the main threats in those decks and see if you can counter them. Are you fast enough so that they do not matter or can you establish enough control to break their combos? If you find a common deck that you are helpless against, try to find a solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Put up your desk for analysis online. There are many forums with experts from the MTG scene. Post your deck in the appropriate forum and hear what others think about your deck. They usually will have more experience and find weaknesses without having to play the deck. If you have more specific questions than &quot;is my deck any good?&quot;, the MTG experts from this site here (Board and Card games on Stack Exchange) will also be able to help. I learned a lot already here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These three steps can help you a lot already. In addition you can analyze the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Mana_curve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mana Curve&lt;/a&gt; of your deck and identify problems there. But in the end, finding practice partners helps the most. I have played MTG-games over webcam in the past with friends of mine. It works better than it sounds like in the first place ;). So even if you don't have anyone in reach, you can try to play with friends who live farther away over the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T13:15:48.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2011-09-27T14:03:34.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could join a group like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magic-league.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.magic-league.com&lt;/a&gt;.  I don't play with them myself, but these people run online tournaments unaffiliated to Wizards, using applications for playing Magic over the internet that are not MtGO... and thus a lot cheaper, for those who are budget-conscious!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect you'd find plenty of people in the forums and on IRC who'd be willing to discuss deck testing and maybe even give you a game.  As far as I can tell it looks like a pretty active community...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that your question asked for &quot;ways of testing a Magic deck that don't involve playing with people&quot;, but honestly, I really think you should find ways of playing with people!  I can't believe anyone ever became really good at competitive Magic without a playtesting group of some kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T14:03:34.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4844" CreationDate="2011-09-27T16:08:32.120" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?RfC-CG-Rules-092710.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; explain the Trade Master card a bit better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you play the Trade Master card, choose 2 resources that the opponent must give you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first clause makes it clear that this card cannot be played at any time and follows the normal conventions of playing it within your Action phase (phase 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:08:32.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4831" CreationDate="2011-09-27T16:11:03.767" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that by playing the card you are known to hold, you do not give declarer any extra information and might mislead declarer about the length of your holding in that suit (the falsecarding bit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(btw, your example about west leading Q and you playing K from Kx not to disclose your A is not completely right. If East has the A, he will play it. And West would likely not lead the Q from AQ {unless an NT contract, of course}. So the location of the A will probably be known anyway...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, here is an example with respect to defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      AQJx&#xA;      xx&#xA;      xxx&#xA;      AKJT&#xA;Kxx          xxx&#xA;xxxx         xxx&#xA;xxx          xxx&#xA;xxx          Qxxx &#xA;      xxx&#xA;      AKQx&#xA;      AKQJ&#xA;      xx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing Matchpoints (note: overtricks matter here) South the declarer, finds himself in 6NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are West and you lead a heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer wins and plays a spade to the J which wins.&#xA;Now declarer comes back to hand with a diamond and leads another spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you must play the card you are &quot;known&quot; to hold: the K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The K is going to drop on the A anyway, so it is not as if you are wasting that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer has 12 tricks and would be trying for the 13th (remember, this is matchpoints).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try for the thirteenth, declarer has two major options: spades 3-3 or club finesse. (we are ignoring any squeezes to get the point across, and IMO those chances are inferior anyway)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play low instead of K, declarer will know that you started with either Kxx or Kxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, declarer can cash the third spade to test for spade 3-3. If spades are 4-2, he can safely take the club finesse into partner's hand, who has no spades to cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you play low, declarer can combine his chances of spades 3-3 with the club finesse without endangering the contract and in the current layout, he will make 13 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine you played the card you are known to hold, the K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now declarer will likely place you Kx, (but a smart declarer will not completely eliminate Kxx, or Kxxx, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if declarer tests for spades 3-3 and you indeed turn up with Kx, declarer is in danger of losing his contract if the club finesse (for the 13th trick) loses, as partner can cash a spade when he gets in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in order to not endanger the contract and having some chances of making the 13th trick, declarer might choose to give up on spades and take the club finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that happens, you hold declarer to 12 tricks, while at the other tables where the defender in your position played low, declarer makes an easy 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by playing the K, you have nothing to lose but a lot to gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, at the table you might not have time (or even need to) think about all this. The idea of not giving declarer any extra information is usually sound and when you have no clue about a hand (or need to play in tempo), it pays to follow general principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:11:03.767" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4865" CreationDate="2011-09-27T16:23:08.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once per property group.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/48v5wqmr21/monopolyDeal.pdf?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, there are two columns, &quot;No of properties owned in set&quot; and &quot;Rent&quot;.  That can't be parsed to allow you to collect twice if you have 2 of a color, sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:23:08.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2011-09-27T16:57:27.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need an actual playtesting group, one with decks that resemble the actual metagame, not ones specifically tuned to beat your one deck (unless you're playing a dominant deck and that's a specific metagame choice, that is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, super competitive players need to test their decks just like anyone else. Why won't they take you seriously and do proper testing with you? Even if they're decks are fully tuned (which I seriously doubt, especially since &lt;em&gt;Innistrad&lt;/em&gt; is coming out this weekend and each format's metagame will undoubtedly adjust at least slightly), the play practice should still be valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's because your deck is a rogue brew and they won't test with you because they perceive it won't benefit them because they'll never play against it... Well, I imagine that's a problem with which many rogue brewers have trouble, and I don't have a solution myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2011-09-27T16:57:27.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2011-09-27T19:27:52.683" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other two answers, but I have a little more to add, so since you haven't accepted an answer I'll throw in my two cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of potions in the cost isn't to make things cost &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt;, it's to make things cost &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt;. (The re-shuffle delay is also a good point.) If you want a potion card, you need to invest in a potion that won't be useful for other things. By just increasing the cost, you lose this. In games with a few Alchemy cards available, the decision to buy potions or not usually depends on the variety of potion-costing cards available. While Alchemist can be a strategy in itself and a Familiar might be necessary early on, I probably won't buy a potion to get Vineyards unless there are other potion cards I want as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this I agree strongly with @philosophyguy that, if you're proxying, just proxy the potions as well. However, if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want another mechanic, I think adding 3 to the cost would not work well. For Familiar, 2 is more appropriate (equating it with Witch). However a University or Scrying Pool for 4 would be ridiculous in many card sets, they would need to be 5. But I think there needs to be some sort of other cost mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps require trashing a (non-copper) treasure card at the end of your buy phase. It could work reasonably well to make trashing a Silver part of the cost of the 2P and 3P cards, trashing a Gold required for Possession (and maybe Golem?), though I don't know how to extend this well to the 0P cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solves the reshuffle problem adequately; you'll need to buy a Silver in your first 2 turns to get a potion card in the next two. Not being able to re-use the &quot;potion&quot; (can't trash a Silver more than once) is somewhat balanced by being able to use the Silver for other things first. I think it would be playable. It will still change the strategy however. With potions, you have to make a conscious choice in advance (buying a potion) to make the potion-cost cards accessible. With any other mechanic I can think of this is lost, and it is possible to buy a single potion-cost card on a whim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T16:17:34.077" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T16:17:34.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4641" CreationDate="2011-09-28T00:49:25.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;120 minutes sounds about right for 4+ players. I suspect that the fastest possible play would be two to three players with good cooperative housekeeping, which might be under an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played once with five players (three new), and it took about two hours from box open to completion (Hastur, by elder signs). There was definitely a &quot;too many cooks&quot; effect, especially with new players - we were hardly playing the game ourselves on many turns. Two hours &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; seem excessive, but that can be how it shakes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also played twice solo. The first took 90 minutes (Yig) and the second under 60 minutes, including setup from closed box. (I lose about 30 seconds trying to open the box. I might have to start greasing the stupid thing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completion time is affected by other things too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Universal things - Players wandering off, explaining rules to newbies, over-strategizing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protectiveness - Trying hard not to get doom tokens or lose characters may cost you more real-world time than it is worth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Big bad drawn - Ask an experienced player for details. This largely depends on elder signs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1626" LastEditorUserId="1626" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T05:57:08.840" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T05:57:08.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4875" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-28T02:01:42.327" Score="5" ViewCount="1935" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you buy resources from neighbor do you take the card or just get access to the resources you need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1865" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T06:02:50.897" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T06:13:00.900" Title="In 7 wonders when you buy resources from neighbor do you take the card?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4875" CreationDate="2011-09-28T02:33:54.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not take the card. The neighbor retains the card; you are simply allowed to use your neighbor's cards, for a fee of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also buy the resource from the top corner of the civilization cards as well.  It doesn't need to be a &quot;card&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="1866" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T05:29:53.700" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T05:29:53.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5209" CreationDate="2011-09-28T05:52:08.617" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trader card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Village&lt;/strong&gt;: In addition to your by, you may destroy 1 card to take any non-Hero card worth up to 2 cost more from the village.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disease doesn't have a cost listed, so even if it can be destroyed it is somewhat ambiguous as to what you could acquire afterwards.  Does anyone know how this should be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T03:17:18.843" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T03:17:18.843" Title="Can the Trader destroy a disease card?" Tags="|thunderstone-dragonspire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5197" CreationDate="2011-09-28T05:54:05.527" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toryn Gauntlet&lt;/strong&gt; allows a hero to wield an additional weapon.  Can another gauntlet be wielded?  How about a third?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T19:43:01.700" Title="Can one hero use multiple Toryn Gauntlets?" Tags="|thunderstone-dragonspire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4875" CreationDate="2011-09-28T06:13:00.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just the resources.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rprod.com/files/7W_RULES_EN_COLOR_LIGHT.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; on page 4 define things pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are called &amp;quot;structures&amp;quot;, the brown ones can generate &amp;quot;resources&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, a player will want to build a structure requiring resources he or she does not produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these resources are produced by a neighboring city – players sitting directly to the left or right of that player – the player will be able to purchase the missing resource(s) through commerce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In red, there is a notice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important : the resources are not spent during construction. They can be used each turn, for the entire game. The production of a city is never reduced (the cards played are never discarded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you were to take the card, the production of the city would be reduced and this is prohibited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T06:13:00.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-09-28T06:16:58.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I purchase additional monsters or heroes for the CR board game?  And if so, do they come with their stat cards?  Just want to get the most out of the game as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1857" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:06:48.767" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T17:06:48.767" Title="Can other Heroes and/or Monsters be purchased separately for Castle Ravenloft?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|castle-ravenloft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4880" CreationDate="2011-09-28T06:44:15.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about add-ons for Castle Ravenloft, but I know wizards made ANOTHER D&amp;amp;D Adventure System board game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.com/DnD/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/214420000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T14:44:26.433" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T14:44:26.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="961" CreationDate="2011-09-28T07:30:12.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with the above statement about loans. A loan when you already have enough capital to do something constructive (e.g. opening turn) is poor, because you could have taken it later and paid less interest. Equally a loan very late in the game that allows you to do something that you couldn't otherwise do (e.g. build a big ship for more VPs than your alternative plays) is very cheap... who cares about going backwards on the income track if there's no more turns to come?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good time to take a loan is just before you expect to progress on the income track, and the farther back along the track the better, but your need for capital to get the VP machine rolling is more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1867" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T07:30:12.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4883" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T09:50:32.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;7 Wonders is a card based civilization development game.   It uses a card-drafting technic where once per turn, each player selects a card to play from their hand then passes the remaining cards to the player on their left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is played from three different decks representing three different ages.  Some cards have immediate effects, while others provide bonuses or upgrades later in the game.  Players draft and reveal their cards simultaneously, enabling fast-paced play even with 7 players. Card may require paying or collecting resources, building civilization improvements, or interacting with other players in various ways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all three decks have been played, players tally their scores in different developed areas (civil, scientific, commercial). The player with the most points wins. Works for 2-7 players (8 players with some extensions) advertises 30 minute game times.  Play time is not affected by the number of players, as player interactions are limited to immediate neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="23084" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T12:36:04.843" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T12:36:04.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4884" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T09:50:32.093" Score="0" Body="7 Wonders (2-7 players (8 players with some extension packs), 30 minutes) is a card-based civilization development game. It's played from three decks representing three ages. Players draft then reveal cards simultaneously." OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="23084" LastEditDate="2018-07-27T13:47:45.627" LastActivityDate="2018-07-27T13:47:45.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4885" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:23:59.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blokus is an abstract strategy game for 2-4 players. All players receive an identical set of Tetris-like shapes and take turns placing one of them onto a square grid. Pieces must always connect to other pieces of the same player over corners but never over edges. The last player capable of placing one of his tiles wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:56:47.693" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:56:47.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4886" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:23:59.713" Score="0" Body="Blokus is an abstract strategy game for 2-4 players involving laying Tetris-like shapes onto a square grid trying to cut other players off." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:56:59.877" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:56:59.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4887" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:30:05.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;El Grande is a classic strategy game for 2-5 players. Each turn players may send their knights into Spanish provinces to establish their influence there and perform a special action such as redistributing a number of knights. Every three turns all the provinces are scored and after three scorings the player with the most points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:57:05.480" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:57:05.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4888" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:30:05.027" Score="0" Body="El Grande is a classic strategy game for 2-5 players where players fight over majority of influence in the Spanish provinces." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:57:07.727" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:57:07.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4889" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:33:48.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exodus is an expansion to the roleplaying deduction game &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/battlestar-galactica&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'battlestar-galactica'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;battlestar-galactica&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:26:32.253" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:26:32.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4890" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:33:48.390" Score="0" Body="Exodus is an expansion to the roleplaying deduction game Battlestar Galactica." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:57:12.157" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:57:12.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4891" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:35:09.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pegasus is an expansion to the roleplaying deduction game &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/battlestar-galactica&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'battlestar-galactica'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;battlestar-galactica&lt;/a&gt;. It adds support for one additional player (up to 7, in total) and expands the game by adding two new boards, a new type of skill card, and supplementing most of the existing decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pegasus also reworks the &quot;sympathizer&quot; mechanic, which many players find to be a very positive change. For more details see &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8933/1749&quot;&gt;this question and answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T01:03:15.340" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T01:03:15.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4892" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:35:09.123" Score="0" Body="Pegasus is an expansion to the roleplaying deduction game Battlestar Galactica." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:57:14.700" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:57:14.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4893" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:42:01.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Resistance is a social deduction game for 5-10 players. Each player is dealt a loyalty card indicating whether they belong to the resistance or the empire. Resistance players must try to successfully complete 3 missions against the empire by choosing a trustworthy team of players. The empire players must try to make 3 of the resistance missions fail by getting included in the mission team and sabotaging it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:57:59.657" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:57:59.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4894" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:42:01.377" Score="0" Body="The Resistance is a social deduction game for 5-10 players where they must unmask the traitors in their midst in order to successfully complete 3 of 5 missions against the oppressive empire." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:58:13.557" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:58:13.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4895" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:48:18.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Monopoly Deal is essentially a distilled version of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/monopoly&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'monopoly'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;monopoly&lt;/a&gt; that retains much of the luck focused gameplay experience while taking only about 20 minutes to play. Players draw cards from a pile and during their turn can play properties, bank money or play events that collect rent from other players or steal / exchange some of their properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:58:20.377" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:58:20.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4896" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-09-28T10:48:18.280" Score="0" Body="Monopoly Deal is a short card game for 2-5 players with the goal to be the first to complete three property groups from Monopoly." OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="174" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T10:58:22.090" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T10:58:22.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4898" CreationDate="2011-09-28T13:10:33.407" Score="43" ViewCount="15940" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other night while playing checkers with my 5 year old, he told me that he wanted to make up a game using the checkerboard which had different pieces that could do different things. I told him that there was a game already like that called chess. So I got out the pieces and we went through them and talked about what their names were and how they move and he seemed to enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, are there any techniques or simplified rules or setups that can help teach the game of chess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of setting the board with only pawns and kings and playing a game. Then adding in the rooks and playing, add the knights and play until we have all the pieces. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" OwnerDisplayName="Chris M" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T10:01:25.083" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T15:18:12.937" Title="What techniques should I use to teach my 5-year old to play chess?" Tags="|chess|teaching|kids|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-09-28T14:01:22.400" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly suggest taking him through the puzzles in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1579125549&quot;&gt;Polgar's book&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book starts off with very simple chess problems, with only a handful of pieces, with the idea of &quot;solve for checkmate in &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; moves&quot;.  The problems are designed with a logical progression, highlighting specific tactics and strategies, and become increasingly complex and demonstrating more advanced concepts that build upon lessons learned from earlier puzzles.  Polgar used the puzzles in this book to teach his daughters, who each became grandmaster players in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" OwnerDisplayName="Beofett" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T19:42:29.760" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T19:42:29.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4901" CreationDate="2011-09-28T14:41:11.353" Score="7" ViewCount="1656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I have to tell the others how much money I have or may I make this a secret and everybody has to calculate/estimate themselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1871" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T17:14:13.143" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T17:22:29.747" Title="Do I have to tell the other players how much money I have?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4880" CreationDate="2011-09-28T14:43:56.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/80591/castle-ravenloft-gray-hag-promo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gray Hag&lt;/a&gt; promo exists, but it was a fairly limited release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.com/DnD/Product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/214420000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/a&gt; is fully compatible with Castle Ravenloft, and Wizards has released &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/Article.aspx?x=dnd/duad/20110408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bonus adventures&lt;/a&gt; that combine the two games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/product.aspx?x=dnd/products/dndacc/355940000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Legend of Drizzt&lt;/a&gt; is the latest game in the series and, according to the product information page, is also fully compatible with both other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T20:29:26.683" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T20:29:26.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4899" CreationDate="2011-09-28T15:09:34.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Officially, Money is hidden.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.2f-spiele.de/spiele/faq/faq_frames_eng.htm&quot;&gt;FAQ for Funkenschlag&lt;/a&gt; (the game was originally published in German under that name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hide the amount of money &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: Are you supposed to hide the amount of money you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;: The rules are not explicit on this point. You should play with hidden money, to prevent AP in the last (couple of) turn(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Chris notes, this can slow the game down quite a bit as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People try to keep track mentally of everything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People may spend extra time figuring out their move by obsessively calculating how that would affect other people's turns.  (The common term for this is &lt;em&gt;analysis paralysis&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are playing in a tournament, expect that everyone's money will be hidden.  At home with your friends, if y'all are not overly competitive or wish to avoid analysis paralysis then feel free to keep money public for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since shuffling money back and forth in &lt;strong&gt;Power Grid&lt;/strong&gt; happens frequently, you can take advantage of declaring that money will be public by getting rid of the paper money completely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a whiteboard or computer spreadsheet to track money for each player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use poker chips.  They tend to be much easier to move around quickly and can be easily counted if everyone leaves them in stacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-28T17:22:29.747" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T17:22:29.747" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4559" CreationDate="2011-09-28T15:34:30.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the literature seems to be lacking regarding this (unlike squeezes!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to any good defense is counting, trying to figure out what is going on and what is likely to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be some indications that declarer might be going for an endplay. As you noted, one of them is when declarer is ruffing out side suits. This is actually one of the most common ways for an endplay in suit contracts (and even has its own name, I believe: Strip and EndPlay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes your own hand will make you alert to the possibility of an endplay, for instance, you hold AQ of a side suit over declarer and declarer probably holds the K etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A count of declarer's/defense's tricks, and an idea of how he might try and obtain them might give you another clue as to whether an endplay etc might be coming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way would be to get familiar with the hands which might have an endplay, and that can be done by playing (with good players) and reading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reading, I would recommend Killing Defense at Bridge I,II by Kelsey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if it helped answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T15:34:30.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-09-28T16:46:21.697" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yours is a good idea: introduce him to the pieces gradually (though not too gradually - five-year olds learn fast!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another one:  to make sure the rules of moving stick, place a piece on the empty board before each game, and ask him to point out all the spaces that piece can move to.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After he's got that down (a few days/weeks, depending on how often you play), set up actual positions, point to a piece, and ask him what squares that piece can move to (including captures).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt;, set up simple positions where the king is in check, and ask him if it's checkmate or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good beginners book which has lots of &quot;checkmate-or-not?&quot; examples is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0553263153&quot;&gt;Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess&lt;/a&gt; (which was not actually written by Bobby Fischer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you play actual games with him between exercises.  And don't forget to introduce &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castling&quot;&gt;castling&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/En_passant&quot;&gt;En Passant&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(I mention this because many beginners do not even know about these rules)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And don't forget the most important thing:  make sure he's having fun.  Losing is never fun, so take it easy on him for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T16:46:21.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4806" CreationDate="2011-09-28T22:08:44.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is covered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.1. A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or &#xA;  interacts with a rule, ability, or effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;711.7. When a double-faced permanent transforms, it doesn‘t become a new object. Any effects that &#xA;  applied to that permanent will continue to apply to it after it transforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; An effect gives Village Ironsmith (the front face of a double-faced card) +2/+2 &#xA;  until end of turn and then Village Ironsmith transforms into Ironfang. Ironfang will continue &#xA;  to get +2/+2 until end of turn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Garruk Relentless transforms into Garruk, the Veil-Cursed, he remains the same object, so there's no reason to believe anything happens to his loyalty counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/faq/isd&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Innistrad&lt;/em&gt; FAQ&lt;/a&gt; mentions this as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Transforming a permanent doesn't affect any Auras or Equipment attached to that permanent. Similarly, any counters on the permanent will remain on that permanent after it transforms.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2011-09-28T22:08:44.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2011-09-28T22:19:26.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been a while since I was a tournament player, but I used to be pretty good.  Beyond playing against the tournament decks of my friends, which was always the best way to test, I did two things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I just played the deck to see how many turns it took to get to 20 damage, which actually is decent testing to test the basic concept of the deck to see if it even works on a basic level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had a set of about four decks that I kept maintained that were exemplars of existing tournament decks and ran against them.  It's usually pretty easy to play both ends of the game, and it wasn't hard to keep on top of what some examples of tournament decks are; at the time, you could find listings of them online and in magazines, as I'm sure is still true today.  I'd just proxy cards I didn't have for this purpose, and that testing would give me an idea how my new deck fared against the dominant archetypes of the day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-09-30T20:30:54.703" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T20:30:54.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4849" CreationDate="2011-09-29T05:31:12.243" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't expect the game to end quickly.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In a MtG duel, there is a deck archetype called Aggro. Aggro decks use extremely low converted mana cost (CMC) cards that can efficiently deal damage to quickly reduce their opponents life from 20 to 0. This type of deck is trying to gain a tempo advantage. Aggro decks typically don't win in multiplayer free for all, because although they can quickly deal 20 damage against a single opponent before they can mount a defense, it is quite difficult to deal 40 (60, 80) damage to two (three, four) or more opponents. Duel decks need to deal with Aggro decks, so nearly all their card's have mana costs under 4, but multiplayer decks can afford to run higher CMC cards with bigger effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't pack your deck with cards that trade 1 to 1&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In a duel, if you cast a card that destroys one of your opponents cards, you have a net card advantage of 0. In multiplayer on the other hand, you have a net card advantage of 0 with respect to one opponent, but you (and the opponent whose card you destroyed) are both down 1 card to the other players. When one of your cards destroys multiple cards of your opponents, you gain card advantage. In multiplayer though, the number of cards your single card must destroy grows with the number of opponents. This is because, for each card you draw on your turn, each opponent that is still alive draws a card. If your opponents believe you will win, expect that most of the cards they are drawing will be directed at you and your resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Learn the Animal Elements&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Multiplayer decks use cards that excel in these areas impact (Gorilla), outlast (Cockroach), warning away (Rattlesnake), feeding-off (Pigeon), trapping (Spider), and helping others (Plankton). Anthony Alongi came up with the animals to make it easier to remember the concepts of what the cards do. Gorilla cards smash your opponents. They destroy boards, hands, and life totals. This typically means sweeper cards that effect multiple cards or players. Cockroach cards outlast your opponents cards. They cards tend to be reusable effects, are difficult to get rid of, or come back from the graveyard. Rattlesnakes warn your opponents to focus their attention elsewhere or suffer the consequences. These cards are usually permanents with no or low activation costs, whose power usually derives from not having to use them. Pigeon cards feed of of multiple opponents. These cards typically have words like, &quot;each opponent&quot;, or &quot;whenever [situation]&quot; where [situation] is a lot more common because there are more players, creature, lands, etc. in multiplayer. Spider cards trap your opponents into making bad decisions. These cards are typically instants, because it is difficult to trick your opponents with cards that they can see in a visible zone. Plankton cards are all about sharing the fun. These cards allow your opponents to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Concerning playing strategy&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This is typically more important for larger multiplayer games than 3 player, because with more opponents there are fewer targets. You usually don't want to get into a feud with a single player. Don't attack someone, just because they attacked you last turn. Attack someone, because they are the biggest threat to winning the game. If your group allows table talk, freely explain why you are attacking someone or destroying some permanent. Helping everyone get better at threat assessment will make for better games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't be an easy target&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Sometimes players might get out an early aggressive creature (or several). Make sure your deck can survive early damage from aggressive decks. If your deck starts its mana curve to high (everything is 4 mana or higher), you probably can't survive even a couple of early creatures cast by your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The number combat steps steps you must survive is greater&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In a duel, there is only one turn in which your opponent gets to untap and attack you or try to destroy your creatures. In multiplayer, you have to survive multiple combat steps, and your creatures have to survive multiple turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Life total is an important resource&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Only the last point of life matters in Multiplayer, but how close your life total is to 0 controls how aggressive you can be. Unlike a duel, where gaining life doesn't put you any closer to victory, in multiplayer when you gain life you just might make other opponents easier targets for elimination, putting you closer to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T05:31:12.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="961" CreationDate="2011-09-29T06:03:23.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;More of a tactic than a strategy, but I think it's important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last turn of the canal phase, assuming nobody before you has paid nothing and you have a level-2 building on the board, it is worth considering getting 2 loans: Having paid nothing, you will be in first place at the start of the rail phase, during which you could use some of your new found cash to buy 4 tracks at once, giving you more options to place buildings (using industry cards) and hopefully grabbing some of the best links with lots of VPs at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In anticipation for that, on the previous turn, build a level-2 coal mine if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="46" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T06:03:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-09-29T17:52:45.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go get &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0486206408&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Emanuel Lasker's Manual of Chess&lt;/a&gt; (there is a modern version with modern notation). It is an old book and definitely as a full book too detailed for a 5 year old, but the structure it offers to teach chess would be a very solid one for you to use with your son.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular it does a bit of what others have suggested but in a more formalized manner - it STARTS with the endgame (how to checkmate with just a few pieces), builds up to the middlegame (tactical decisions in a given position) and only towards the end of the book does it cover opening - what to do, how to think about the opening, how to make decisions (Lasker isn't a fan or proponent of memorization in the opening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 year old I would suggest starting with puzzles with just a few pieces in various endgame positions - that teach him how each piece moves and how to win the game. Then I would move into other puzzle like middlegame positions along with starting to play full games. My grandfather taught me at a similar age by playing without his queen - but I wouldn't suggest this technique. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keys are - play with him, have fun with it and mix up puzzles with games (based on what he is interested in paying attention to). Don't focus on the dull aspects of chess (memorization of openings) - instead focus on teaching him how the pieces move and start to teach him to think strategically - to look forward a few moves and start to make decisions about what to move based on likely outcomes many moves ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T18:00:53.653" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T18:00:53.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-09-29T19:00:36.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My question is, are there any techniques or simplified rules or setups&#xA;  that can help teach the game of chess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not really. He has to learn how each piece moves, What is the starting position, then how to check mate, then some openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking of setting the board with only pawns and kings and&#xA;  playing a game. Then adding in the rooks and playing, add the knights&#xA;  and play until we have all the pieces. What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds good, but it is better to learn how each piece move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any other ideas or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are bad teacher (like me), then I suggest you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?field-keywords=chess%20for%20kids&amp;amp;url=search-alias=stripbooks&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get a book&lt;/a&gt;, and start reading it to your kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1085" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T19:00:36.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4912" CreationDate="2011-09-29T19:42:21.287" Score="12" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion I play a combo: Any card which gives me an additional 2 actions, then Bridge folloewed by Saboteur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge makes any card in my hand cheaper (i.e. cost $1 less) and cards in other players' hands, which is directly stated in the card's description. &lt;strong&gt;What about cards in other players' decks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing Saboteur players should  normally reveal cards from their decks until they find one which costs $3 or more. &lt;strong&gt;Does Bridge affect the prices of these cards too?&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. Do other players need to find a card worth originally $4 in this case?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:25:10.833" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:25:10.833" Title="Using Saboteur after Bridge in Dominion" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4911" CreationDate="2011-09-29T19:58:34.527" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bridge affects the costs.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_306_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Intrigue rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saboteur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Costs of cards are affected by Bridge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T23:07:26.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2011-09-29T20:43:05.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The details depend on which expansions you're playing with, as some have starting pieces that are mutually exclusive or have slightly different rules depending on the combination. For example, the following cover all expansions through the catapult:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Collect tiles:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collect the following special tiles, in addition to those for the base game and any other expansions being played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any combination of river expansion tiles (from &quot;The River&quot;, &quot;The River II&quot;, or the &quot;Mini Expansion&quot;) that includes exactly one spring, exactly one lake/end tile and, optionally a single branch and a second lake/end tile. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The count piece and all 12 Carcassonne City tiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Prepare tiles:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard the starting tile; place the assembled City in the middle of the table, with the count in the castle district of the City; place the spring next to the City with the river leading away from the City, set one lake/end tile (with a volcano, if in use) and the branch tile aside, face up, and shuffle the remaining river expansion tiles and place them face down; shuffle all other tiles in use and place them in a concealed supply (in a bag, tower dispenser, or face down piles or stacks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drawing tiles:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw tiles, beginning with the branch tile, then face down river expansion tiles, then the face up lake/end tile, then from tiles in the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a step-by-step setup and turn structure tailored to whatever specific expansions you have in mind, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencegames.com/carcassonne/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sciencegames.com/carcassonne/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-09-29T23:06:08.523" LastActivityDate="2011-09-29T23:06:08.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="797" CreationDate="2011-09-30T07:18:35.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.totaldiplomacy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.totaldiplomacy.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a nice site with more information on Risk strategies than I thought was possible :) I remember spending several hours procrastinating reading over this site. They also sell a book which looks good, though I can't say I've read it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1880" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T07:18:35.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4918" CreationDate="2011-09-30T09:48:39.647" Score="11" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have 7 lands and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Cantor&quot;&gt;Wild Cantor&lt;/a&gt; (or another creature that sacrifices to produce mana, e.g. an Eldrazi Spawn token) in play, and there are no other creatures on the battlefield, can I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasphemous%20Act&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to have hazy memories that a Wild Cantor didn't interact particularly well with cards with Convoke, so I was wondering if it was a similar story here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:30:08.560" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:30:08.560" Title="Timings of Mana Costs vs Mana Payments" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4916" CreationDate="2011-09-30T12:18:24.727" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From my interpretation, it should work.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601 Casting Spells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2e &lt;strong&gt;The player determines the total cost of the spell.&lt;/strong&gt; Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions. If the mana component of the total cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered to be {0}. It can't be reduced to less than {0}. Once the total cost is determined, any effects that directly affect the total cost are applied. Then the resulting total cost becomes &quot;locked in.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;If effects would change the total cost after this time, they have no effect.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2f If the total cost includes a mana payment, &lt;strong&gt;the player then has a chance to activate mana abilities&lt;/strong&gt; (see rule 605, &quot;Mana Abilities&quot;). Mana abilities must be activated before costs are paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: You cast Altar's Reap, which costs {1}{B} and has an additional cost of sacrificing a creature. You sacrifice Thunderscape Familiar, whose effect makes your black spells cost {1} less to cast. Because a spell's total cost is &quot;locked in&quot; before payments are actually made, you pay {B}, not {1}{B}, even though you're sacrificing the Familiar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first you determine and lock the mana cost, &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; you can activate mana abilities, then you have to pay the mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the definition of a Mana Ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Mana Abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;605.1a An activated ability is a mana ability if it meets three criteria: it doesn't have a target, it could put mana into a player's mana pool when it resolves, and it's not a loyalty ability. (See rule 606, &quot;Loyalty Abilities.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cantor meets all 3 criteria, so its ability is a mana ability. Therefore, you should gain both the cost reduction and the mana through saccing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;As for why a cantor should not play nicely with Convoke, I don't know - do you have an authoritative source that it really doesn't work? &quot;Tapping a creature&quot; is an optional, additional cost by Convoke, and after tapping for convoke you should still be able to sac the Cantor with its mana ability.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.com/271-cranial-insertion-a-bloody-good-time.html&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an explanation why the cantor can only reduce convoke spells by 1. &lt;strong&gt;However, that does not affect my answer to your actual question.&lt;/strong&gt; The subtle difference between the two is that Blasphemous Act has a cost reduction, which is locked after you determined it. Convoke, OTOH, offers an alternative way of paying the mana costs and requires you to tap creatures to pay for its cost. You can announce to tap the cantor, but once you sacced it for mana, you can of course no longer do so, and the game rewinds to before you announced Blasphemous Act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-09-30T12:46:53.853" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T12:46:53.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4920" CreationDate="2011-09-30T17:25:08.603" Score="13" ViewCount="6259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a Magic the Gathering display box today with cards from the new edition Innistrad. Unfortunately one of the cards in a booster pack was damaged. It is not just a simple scratch - one corner is bent and a small part of the card is missing. According to different trading platforms this card would be worth about 6 Dollars minimum in mint condition. So it is not really expensive but also not totally worthless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do about this? Can I obtain a replacement card from the producer (WotC) or from the store I bought it from? How can I prove that the card was damaged when I opened the booster pack? I am sure I am not the first person who got a damaged card from a booster pack. How are such issues usually handled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T05:30:29.443" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T05:30:29.443" Title="How to deal with damaged cards from a MTG booster pack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4919" CreationDate="2011-09-30T17:33:37.057" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast has a process you can follow for the replacement of defective products purchased, described in detail &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/10/~/replacing-defective-magic%3a-the-gathering-products&quot;&gt;on their website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you purchase a product and find that only one or several cards are damaged, defective, or missing when you open it, please return any damaged cards (if not missing), and follow the shipping guidelines provided above.  We'll replace the exact cards for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T17:33:37.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5285" CreationDate="2011-09-30T19:15:24.470" Score="27" ViewCount="11720" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that doing a booster draft can be somewhat complicated, because to really be good you need to know a lot about the set you're drafting (or be really good at evaluating cards quickly) and to pay attention to signal cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides going into the whole complicated strategies of knowing the set and paying attention to signal cards, what are some relatively simple/basic guidelines for drafting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T15:11:59.597" LastActivityDate="2019-06-25T08:00:12.943" Title="What are good strategies for booster drafts?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4928" CreationDate="2011-09-30T19:40:17.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am starting to play Warhammer 40,000 as an Ultramarine Space Marine player. I got the starter kit: Assault on Black Reach and have been enjoying painting stuff since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should I look next to start building up my army? My goal is to have an army of around 2000 points eventually, while I build up my understanding of the tactics of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T05:15:23.983" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T05:15:23.983" Title="What the key minis for a new Ultramarine player to get?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4921" CreationDate="2011-09-30T20:38:02.617" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evan Erwin has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/fundamentals/12549_Learning_How_To_Draft.html&quot;&gt;interesting article about learning to draft&lt;/a&gt; on Star City Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He uses an acronym BREAD to remember the order you should be picking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for Bombs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for Removal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for Efficient spells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look for Aggro (1-3 mana creatures to get in the early damage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the Dregs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd modify his acronym and make E also stand for Evasion. It's good to find creatures with flying, or &quot;cannot be blocked&quot; abilities… even if it's Trample, to get through creature stalemates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay attention to your mana curve. You generally don't want to end up with a deck of 4+ mana cost spells and no low mana spells or a bunch of aggro creatures with no finisher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 4th - 5th pick is likely the best pack to see what colours seem under-picked. If there's a card you're surprised to see still in the pack, you may want to go that way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T20:38:02.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4931" CreationDate="2011-09-30T22:11:53.533" Score="16" ViewCount="3566" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common mistake in MTG is to overvalue life-gain cards (at least in 2 player games) because they don't do anything to actually help you WIN the game, and only make you lose slower. This makes them seem like the kind of card that's good in any deck, but not great in any either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But are there any decks where &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=14687&quot;&gt;cards whose primary purpose is life gain&lt;/a&gt; really shine? In what type of decks are they significantly better or worse than other types of cards? What combos or strategies upgrade them from average cards to truly great ones? How can I tell if I should add some life gain cards to my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2023-06-19T02:20:31.420" Title="When should I add life gain cards to my deck in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-09-30T23:58:20.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there are some white cards such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=185743&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; that let you win the game if you have a certain amount of life so life gain cards would be useful in a deck that uses that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1883" LastActivityDate="2011-09-30T23:58:20.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-10-01T02:18:55.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can add a card which has a different primary purpose and adds life as a side effect, that's a good opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T02:18:55.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-10-01T06:14:47.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your obvious next steps are a copy of the Codex: Space Marines book and another squad of Tactical Marines.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You're going to need to book to effectively plan your army, and you will find it impossible to win games under the 5th edition rules without enough regular tactical marines around to hold objectives!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there you'll need to make some key decisions in what type of army you want to have.&#xA;Drop Pod Army?&#xA;Mechanized (everyone in Rhinos and maybe a land raider for your terminators) Army?&#xA;Fast Assault Army with lots of jump pack marines and bike marines, land speeders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An army that has a focus is usually much more effective in 40K than having one of each different unit type in the book.  The nature of space marines and the need to have tactical squads around means you can devote yourself to a focus that you find appealing without worrying too much about your army becoming entirely one-dimensional.  An upside for marines!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course your budget can also help guide early decisions.  An entire army of dudes riding in $40 drop pods adds up fast!  Having the codex will make it easier for you to see what different paths you can follow when making a plan to buy your army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T06:14:47.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-10-01T10:12:11.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But are there any decks where cards whose primary purpose is life gain really shine? In what type of decks are they significantly better or worse than other types of cards? What combos or strategies upgrade them from average cards to truly great ones? How can I tell if I should add some life gain cards to my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Respectively: no; they're always worse; none, and anyway they were terrible cards to begin with; you shouldn't. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously though, assuming you're talking about constructed, cards whose &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; purpose is to gain life contribute nothing useful to any deck that aims to be anything more than purely casual. Think about the possible win conditions you could be playing against:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Creature beatdown&lt;/em&gt;: if you gain some life, the creatures will take it right back, and then you're in exactly the same situation you were before - in other words, your life gain spell effectively makes you skip your turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Poison counters&lt;/em&gt;: life doesn't matter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mill&lt;/em&gt;: again, life doesn't matter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Combo&lt;/em&gt;: life doesn't matter because when a combo deck goes off, it can usually deal a huge amount of damage in one turn, so no matter how much life you have, you're still toast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, life gain spells use up resources (mana, cards) that could be devoted to other spells which would help your game situation more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only place you could argue that life gain cards &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; fit in is when you can exchange that extra life for some more important resource. The original example was &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194977&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt;: each life you gain becomes a card you can draw, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=14687&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stream of Life&lt;/a&gt; acts like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202409&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Braingeyser&lt;/a&gt; (which is ridiculously powerful, FYI). More recently, you have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=185743&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4924/when-should-i-add-life-gain-cards-to-my-deck-in-mtg/4925#4925&quot;&gt;Shane mentioned&lt;/a&gt;, which means that gaining life brings you closer to winning in the same way that dealing damage to your opponent does. In that case, Stream of Life acts like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221558&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Red Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; (although it only works on players, which kind of holds it back because being able to target a creature is the main appeal of direct damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in decks that make use of life in this way, though, pure life gain spells aren't usually the best choice, because there are other, better spells that gain you life as a side effect of doing something else. In the Necro deck, it was &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=26618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drain Life&lt;/a&gt;, which dealt damage to any creature or player (great deal) and gained you life as a side effect. In combination with Necropotence, it acted like Red Sun's Zenith and Braingeyser in the same card, which explains why Necro was arguably the most dominant deck in Magic history. In a Felidar Sovereign deck, you would have lifelink creatures, which would again gain you life as a side effect of dealing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; case that I know of in which a pure life-gain effect (of sorts) achieved some success, and that would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/breaking-through-sister-souljah-moments/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soul Sisters&lt;/a&gt;, the deck centered around &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205351&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soul Warden&lt;/a&gt; and, in a later incarnation, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=217981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suture Priest&lt;/a&gt;. Even so, the only reason the deck worked was that it included a bunch of other cards that got pretty decent bonuses off gains in life, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=204989&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Serra Ascendant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249413&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ajani's Pridemate&lt;/a&gt;. So the life gain was just a roundabout way to pump up the creatures. The later version of the deck did use the combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222860&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leonin Relic-Warder&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214375&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Metamorph&lt;/a&gt; which could gain an arbitrarily large amount of life, but even that was only a stalling measure, and only worthwhile because the cards involved had other practical uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T10:12:11.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-10-01T11:04:00.370" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you ever seen any of the decks that were popular a few years ago circa Coldsnap, that centred around the Martyr of Sands/Proclamation of Rebirth engine?  If you're going to gain a lot of life, then a combo that can realistically get you 10-20 life &lt;em&gt;every turn&lt;/em&gt; is what you need to be looking at.  A lot of decks - any deck that wants to win by beating down with creatures and burn spells - have no defence against such a strategy.  (Of course, not all decks are like this.  You'll need to have a different route to victory against other combo decks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a sample budget Martyr list that I found on the official Wizards site, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/boab/64&quot;&gt;an article from 2009&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 Adarkar Wastes, 7 Island, 10 Plains&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 Martyr of Sands, 3 Ranger of Eos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 Muddle the Mixture, 2 Proclamation of Rebirth, 4 Thopter Foundry, 4&#xA;  Sword of the Meek, 4 Thirst for Knowledge, 4 Condemn, 1 Journey to&#xA;  Nowhere, 1 Ghostly Prison, 4 Path to Exile, 4 Fieldmist Borderpost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lifegain is a good strategy to consider in any environment where fast red decks are dominant - and this is not actually that uncommon, given that fast red decks tend to be a cheaper option in Magic terms.  If rival decks are happy to spend a card and one red mana to aim a Lightning Bolt at your dome, you will be very happy with anything that efficiently gains life against them, as this efficiently undercuts their strategy and makes it very difficult for them to win.  Just be sure that your lifegain kicks in pretty quickly, as left to their own devices many red decks can easily deal you 20 points of damage by turn 4...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T11:04:00.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4379" CreationDate="2011-10-01T18:21:52.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;And here is a problem. In all English-based rulebooks I have seen a tile-based approach for scoring road/city/everything. In some European rules, there is a approach to score points per segment of construction. Official rules says that you score per tile, so if construction have a tile with two or more segments and spans on each of hem You score only for a tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However be advised that some of European gamers could score differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1884" LastEditorUserId="24175" LastEditDate="2020-12-24T05:20:58.597" LastActivityDate="2020-12-24T05:20:58.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="4934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2011-10-01T18:30:21.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals is essential. It's a great expansion containing meeples for a 6th player, the big meeple, and some nice extra tiles. Traders and builders is also good. It contains the builder and trade goods. Both these expansions are really good and are sensible to get as your first expansions. Next could be Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor, which contains the mayor, the barn, the abbey and the cart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, when You have couple of expansions (four or more) they could destabilize the entire game. Since only one exp add features to roads (and road sucks with official exp's), You could print some exp from &lt;a href=&quot;http://carcassonnecentral.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;carcassonne central&lt;/a&gt;. Roads to Victory, Seasons, or By the Order od King, they adds very much to game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1884" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T13:07:25.357" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T13:07:25.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2011-10-01T18:47:42.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each expansion give a independent set of rules. It's complete safe to combine expansions. Even fan made expansions provide an independet set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1884" LastActivityDate="2011-10-01T18:47:42.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4941" CreationDate="2011-10-01T19:55:54.513" Score="2" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/games/eruption&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eruption&lt;/a&gt;, one gets to draw new tiles by connecting lava flows to cities. If there is already a tile connected to a city, and it is rotated using a Aftershock card, and the lava is still connected to the city in the same way, can one draw new cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T17:58:00.237" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T17:58:00.237" Title="Do you get to draw a card if you rotate a tile?" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2011-10-02T00:28:07.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For an example of a deck constructed with life gain cards as a strategy (but not the primary win condition,) check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/783&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ajani vs. Nicol Bolas Duel Decks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Searing%20Meditation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Searing Meditation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ageless%20Entity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ageless Entity&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ajani%27s%20Pridemate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ajani's Pridemate&lt;/a&gt; turn those little life gain abilities into a big beatdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T00:28:07.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4947" CreationDate="2011-10-02T02:36:17.977" Score="8" ViewCount="2072" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tons of creatures have flying in Magic:The Gathering, but I noticed &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5681&quot;&gt;Treetop Rangers&lt;/a&gt; have this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Treetop Rangers can't be blocked except by creatures with flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this means that Treetop Rangers can't be blocked by creatures with Reach, which can block creatures with flying. Is that the only difference? When else would this distinction matter? Is Treetop Ranger's ability generally 'better' than flying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-02T04:52:26.040" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T14:58:29.363" Title="What is the difference between &quot;flying&quot; and &quot;this creature can only be blocked by creatures with flying&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-10-02T03:01:29.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One difference is with cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129885&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hurricane&lt;/a&gt; that affect only creatures with flying, or those like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Earthquake&lt;/a&gt; that affect only creatures without flying. If flyer removal is common in your metagame, something like Treetop Rangers can be pretty good because you can easily get rid of the creatures that can block it without removing the Rangers themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-10-07T14:58:29.363" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T14:58:29.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-10-02T03:01:56.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creatures with &quot;Can't be blocked except by creatures with flying&quot; essentially have the same evasion as flying, without the downside of being affected by cards that affect flying creatures, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194097&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wing Puncture&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129885&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hurricane&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the downside, it can still be affected by cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Earthquake&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Moat&lt;/a&gt;, since it doesn't have flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it &quot;better&quot; than flying?  Depends on the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T03:01:56.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4936" CreationDate="2011-10-02T05:02:20.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, new draws can only be made if a new location is in contact with the lava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/sites/default/files/eruption_instructions.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; on page 6: (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If this tile is rotated as shown, only one &#xA;  Action Card is drawn because there is &#xA;  &lt;em&gt;only one lava flow in contact with a new &#xA;  location&lt;/em&gt; in the village&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/694346/aftershock-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt; on BoardgameGeek by the Designer Chris James&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T05:02:20.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2011-10-02T12:32:06.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variant much more similar to chess than Arimaa is &lt;a href=&quot;http://membres-lig.imag.fr/prost/Twilight_Chess/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twilight Chess&lt;/a&gt;. Like Arimaa, the design goal is explicitly to be harder for computer to master. The creator is an Associate Professor is Computer Science and a very good chess player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;All classical laws of chess apply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Moving to the Twilight zone (Warp move) is a legal moves for all&#xA;  piece but for the King.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Moving a piece from the Twilight zone to any free square of the&#xA;  chessboard (Drop move) is a legal chess move but for a pawn into the&#xA;  last rank (8th for white player, 1st for black player).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Warp and Drop moves are considered as standard moves with&#xA;  relation to classical laws of chess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="747" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T12:32:06.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5808" CreationDate="2011-10-02T13:21:52.163" Score="2" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea would be to prevent America from building a factory there. The attack would be with two infantry from Indochina, supported by fighters from there and Manchuria. (Japan would replaced the two infantry in Indochina during the non-combat phase.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chances of success, according to the combat simulator software, are about 70%, better than 50-50, although by no means certain. There is the possibility of America's recapturing it on its turn, but it then couldn't build the factory until at least the following turn (a country has to own a territory at both the beginning and end of its turn to do this).  And even if Japan's attack didn't totally succeed, it would probably weaken the American defenses by &quot;strafing&quot; the troops there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worthwhile for Japan to try to disrupt the American factory building program? And even if this wasn't the issues (America doesn't like to build factories, or there is a no-factory &quot;house rule,&quot;) is Sinkiang, which abuts on both India and Russia's Novosibirsk, strategic enough for an early attempt at its capture?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T23:59:51.350" Title="In Axis and Allies, Does It Make Sense For Japan to Attack Sinkiang on the First Turn?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4921" CreationDate="2011-10-02T14:38:59.543" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked ghoppe for &quot;the generals of bombs and efficient spells&quot;.  I'll try to add my 2p worth, taking that as a starting point for the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to remember about all Limited formats is that decks aren't going to end up anywhere near as finely tuned as constructed decks.  This goes doubly so for Sealed Deck, where you just have to reduce the clunkiness of your pool to manageable levels, but even in Draft you generally aren't going to end up with anything incredibly synergetic or finely tuned: four turn kills are pretty rare!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you're just aiming to produce a deck that's a &lt;em&gt;pretty good&lt;/em&gt; Magic deck.  That's where the BREAD mnemonic comes in.  What are the fundamentals of a pretty good deck?  (i) Cards that take over and win the game very quickly if left unanswered - those are the BOMBS.  (ii) Cards that stop the opponent's bombs from taking over and winning the game.  That's the REMOVAL.  Those are the two pillars.  Beyond that, you want cards that are going to slowly chip away at the opponent even when you're in a bit of a stalemate situation.  Those are the cards with EVASION, that can't be blocked, and any EFFICIENT cards that can net you card advantage over the course of the game, and win wars of attrition that way.  No one would say that Divination was &quot;a bomb&quot;, but if you and your opponent have nothing much else going on, Divination is exactly the sort of card that you need to maximise your chances of winning a top deck war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern Magic is, alas, way more bomb-centric than it used to be, because Wizards likes to boost sales by having slightly overpowered Planeswalkers and monsters in the rare and mythic slots.  As an example, look at the way that every modern Magic set has a dragon which basically reads &quot;if you untap and attack with this, it's pretty much impossible for you to lose the game&quot;.  Obviously you don't want to pass cards like these if you open them, if at all possible, but equally don't underestimate the value of cards that deal with them.  The likes of Pacifism and Doom Blade may not be as flashy as your rare Angels, Demons and Dragons, but they still deal with them on a one-for-one basis, and are essential for your game plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from all that basic how-to-win-Limited-games stuff, the key to good drafting is just to understand how passing to the left, then to the right, then to the left again works.  In the first pack, you need to be taking care to notice what your right-hand-opponent (RHO) is passing to you, and what you're feeding to your LHO.  If you first pick the aforementioned rare red dragon, but &lt;em&gt;never get passed another red card&lt;/em&gt;, you have to take that as a signal, and not get obsessed with fighting for red.  Likewise, it's often an excellent first pick, if the best, third best and fourth best cards in a pack are, let's say, white, and the second best card is black, to take the second best card.  The players downstream will be fighting over white, while you stand a good chance of cutting off any good black that would otherwise pique the interest of your LHO for the whole of the pack.  This will almost certainly result in you getting fed much better black cards in pack two, as your LHO will hopefully have settled on different colours for his deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can cooperate with your neighbours' signals, you should be able to produce a good or excellent Magic deck, and hopefully go on to win the draft by dint of your play skills.  If you fight with your neighbours, your job will be much harder!  It's always funny to watch draft videos where a stream of amazing cards in one colour go past the drafter, and they can't pick them up because they've committed to another direction.  If your stubborn pride and/or sheer inability to pick up on the signal that a colour is open until it's too late mean you're feeding your neighbours a deck that is much more broken than the one you're drafting... you're making your life much harder than is ideal!  Try not to fall into such a trap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T14:38:59.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4946" CreationDate="2011-10-02T16:42:44.040" Score="19" ViewCount="16180" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering there are 4 rarity levels: common, uncommon, rare and mythical rare. In a booster pack you usually get 10 commons, 3 uncommons and 1 rare or 1 mythical rare. In Innistrad that changed a little. Instead of 10 commons you only get 9 and a dual-side card of random rarity. In addition you have the chance to get an additional foil card or a land or a token. As far as I know the cards who actually fill those card-slots are chosen randomly from the card-pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if all cards of the same &quot;rarity level&quot; are really equally rare within this card-pool. Lets take &quot;Army of the Damned&quot; and &quot;Liliana of the Veil&quot; for example. Both are mythical rare. When I buy a booster pack, are the changes of getting &quot;Army of the Damned&quot; the same as &quot;Liliana of the Veil&quot;? Did Wizards of the Coast ever made a public statement about that or are there statistics available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T16:00:44.360" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T16:00:44.360" Title="Are cards of the same &quot;rarity level&quot; really equally rare in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|card-rarity|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2011-10-02T17:36:40.070" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that, these days, a card at one level of commonality is pretty much equally common (or rare) as a card at another level.  However, it's pretty hard to work out exactly what the chances of getting a card of a specific rarity is, due to the complications introduced by premium foils, and other maverick card slots such as Innistrad's double-faced cards, which are going to get a slot all of their own.  I dug up the following information &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Booster_pack&quot;&gt;from Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; to demonstrate quite how arcane the system of putting together a modern booster pack is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;15 cards per booster: 1 rare, 3 uncommons and 11 commons; Core Set&#xA;  boosters contain a basic land as one of the commons. Starting with the&#xA;  Shards of Alara block, booster packs for both Core Sets and Expansions&#xA;  began to contain 1 land, 10 commons, 3 uncommons, either 1 rare (7/8&#xA;  chance) or 1 mythic rare (1/8 chance), and either a tip card (which&#xA;  explains the new rules in the set, such as exalted in the Alara Block&#xA;  or Infect in the Scars of Mirrodin Block) or a token (which is of a&#xA;  type produced by a card in the set). Also, roughly one in every four&#xA;  booster packs contain a foil card, which can be of any rarity,&#xA;  including basic land. Since foil cards replace a common, no matter&#xA;  what the rarity of the foil, it means that there is a chance that a&#xA;  booster pack could contain 2 rares, a rare and a mythic rare, or even&#xA;  2 mythic rares. Also, the presence of a foil card means that there is&#xA;  a chance that there are two of the same card in the booster pack (one&#xA;  foil and one regular), which would not occur otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: Innistrad boosters, first released in September of 2011, contain&#xA;  a slightly different proportion of cards due to the introduction of&#xA;  double-faced cards. In Innistrad boosters one of the 10 commons is&#xA;  replaced by a double-sided card. This double-sided card can be of any&#xA;  rarity and either regular or foil, with the likelihood of a specific&#xA;  card being present depending on its rarity. Also, there is roughly a&#xA;  3/4 chance that the basic land will be replaced by a checklist.&#xA;  Finally, non-double-sided foil cards may still be present, probably&#xA;  still in roughly 1/4 of the boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this means that in Innistrad, you could get a pack containing&#xA;3 Mythics - one in the normal rare slot, one in foil replacing a common,&#xA;and one in the double-faced card slot.  And of course, you still hear rumours of errors at the factory producing all-rare packs from time to time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your more specific question, though, I believe Wizards have print runs of commons, uncommons and rares, in which each card at a specific rarity is printed once per sheet; so in theory at least any given rare (or whatever) should occur exactly as often as any other given rate.  This wasn't &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; the case: in the old days you had things like &quot;C1&quot; and &quot;C3&quot; rarity, which meant that the first card would be printed only once per &quot;common sheet&quot;, making it exactly three times as rare as a &quot;C3&quot;, that is to say about as rare as an uncommon! There were also accidents of history, such as when only half of the Legends uncommon sheets were shipped to certain locations (such as the UK, where I lived at the time), making some uncommons easy to get hold of in my location, and some like gold dust...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, I'm pretty sure they don't do this kind of thing any more though.  A rare is a rare is a rare... unless it's a mythic of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T16:41:53.593" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T16:41:53.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-10-02T17:44:16.240" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it's the &quot;simple answer&quot;, but I have to add it for completeness' sake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature that &quot;can't be blocked except by creatures with flying&quot; has about half the functionality of a creature with flying.  In terms of its evasive power, it's quite similar to a creature with flying; a little better because it can't be blocked by the likes of Giant Spider, and &quot;super-high-flyers&quot; such as Cloud Elemental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of its defensive capabilities, however, it's much worse than a flyer, since it can only &lt;em&gt;block&lt;/em&gt; ground creatures, never a flyer!  And as David Z rightly points out, it is susceptible to a different class of spells such as Earthquake, while laughing at the likes of Hurricane and Plummet...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-02T17:44:16.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4954" CreationDate="2011-10-02T23:26:20.177" Score="18" ViewCount="7806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing around with an idea for a card game for some time, and I think I've finally got the idea fairly well in place. How can I best start testing it out to refine it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="597" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T14:11:25.710" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T18:17:55.077" Title="I have an idea for a card game. How can I best start testing it?" Tags="|game-design|prototyping|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4949" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-10-03T00:19:13.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stratus Games&lt;/a&gt; is a small board and card publishing company, founded in 2008. So far, they have three published games, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/games/gold-mine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gold Mine&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/games/launch-pad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Launch Pad&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stratusgames.com/games/eruption&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eruption&lt;/a&gt;, and are working on several additional games. They invite playtesters through &lt;a href=&quot;http://sphere.stratusgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stratus Sphere&lt;/a&gt;, where potential playtesters can earn rewards, including new games, through playtesting games and spreading the word about released games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="597" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:34:31.573" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T03:34:31.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4950" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-10-03T00:19:13.873" Score="0" Body="Stratus Games is a small game company founded by Chris and Melanie James in 2008. " OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T02:04:04.330" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T02:04:04.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5674" CreationDate="2011-10-03T05:50:34.903" Score="9" ViewCount="2126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's consensus that Elder Sign is not satisfyingly difficult. The variants I've seen suggested are either &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/698468/increased-difficulty-variant&quot;&gt;too long for my taste&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/705709/adding-to-difficulty&quot;&gt;don't look play-tested&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone found a &lt;em&gt;satisfying&lt;/em&gt; (read: you've played it at least once and liked it) way to tweak the difficulty up without adding more than, say, half an hour to the base game or ramping up the complexity and housekeeping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love for the change to meet most of these conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add no new mechanic or a very simple one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add more decision making rather than more chance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add no more than half an hour to the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweak the win rate down to somewhere between 50% and 80%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you have something you love, post it regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1626" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T02:34:54.740" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T16:55:46.620" Title="How can I elegantly increase the difficulty of Elder Sign?" Tags="|house-rules|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2011-10-03T08:33:04.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy normal playing cards (maybe more than one deck if you have a lot of cards in your game), print your special cards on normal paper (or write something on pieces of paper) and simply tape/glue them on the cards you bought. They will all look the same from the back and won't require you to make them on expensive paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: when you finally make the game, thing about cuttong the corners of the cards in rounded shape to avoid them to be destroyed too easely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T08:33:04.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2011-10-03T09:03:21.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you think you'll have to frequently change cards you could use card sleeves instead of glue/tape. Simply print out a new version and swap. You'll probably have to add some kind of real card to the sleeve to give it stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the actual testing, just ask people to try it out with you and tell you what they think. You'll probably want to have a core group of testers that play more frequently so they can examine advanced strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you're confident in your game you should have some blind playtesting: See how people handle the game with nothing more than the cards and the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T09:03:21.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2011-10-03T11:31:36.990" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different stages to testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to make sure the core idea and gameplay is workable.  You can do some of this by playing through a few games with just you playing for each other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you need to start creating the game.  This will be an iterative process.  You get the game together, and draft some instructions, and get some friends round to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take many notes!  See how they understand the instructions; make notes of any oddities during play; see if they understand the game in the way you intend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make changes, and do this again.  Do this a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually you'll get a game that's ready for beta testing with people who don't know you; maybe as a print and play download. Make sure people know it's a beta test, and make sure they have some good method for reporting problems they have and getting help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also want to think about asking people to try to break the game; trying to use weird strategies to win or &quot;king making&quot; or rushing or such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1641" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T11:31:36.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-10-03T12:26:16.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will need for sure some heavy firepower, so at least 1 devastator squad is almost mandatory, or a squad of predator tanks (single unit but has faster mobility).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminator squads + drop pods are great, or if you prefer by terrain go for terminator squad + land raider combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For close combat you can either have assault terminators (slow but deadly) + land raider/drop pod, or assault marines. I prefer the terminators, but personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: I am not an expert (more painter than player), so take my advice with reserve. I only play with my friends and not very often&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T12:26:16.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4922" CreationDate="2011-10-03T13:05:13.767" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rhinos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rhinos are mandatory because of their extremely high effectiveness-to-cost ratio. They allow you to take your tactical squad, and for the low price of about 35 points, render it immune to anti infantry fire until such time as your opponent brings antitank weaponry to bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dreadnoughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dreadnoughts are frequently seen because they provide Space Marine armies with a good source of long-range anti-vehicle fire, without costing as much or being as vulnerable as an equivalent squad of Devestators. Further, Dreadnoughts, being &quot;Walkers&quot;, have a great deal of flexibility in terms of move-and-fire, and even tying up any enemy infantry squads that lack grenade-based antitank weapons in eternal combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're building out a specialized Drop Pod/Biker army, you're going to have Rhinos.  Also Dreadnoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2011-10-03T19:28:27.673" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T19:28:27.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4958" CreationDate="2011-10-03T13:28:24.877" Score="27" ViewCount="186008" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standard draft deck has 40 cards in it; a 4-booster sealed deck has 30 cards. How many lands should I put in each of these formats? And &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; do I need this ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom that I received for a 60-card constructed deck is to have 20 lands, suggesting that 1/3 of the deck should be land. However, I was also told to include 17 lands in a draft deck, which is &lt;em&gt;higher&lt;/em&gt; than 1/3. But a smaller draft deck will have a lower variance (fewer ways to shuffle a deck and get mana-screwed), so shouldn't you be able to get away with &lt;em&gt;fewer&lt;/em&gt; lands than the 1/3 ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T17:44:38.493" LastActivityDate="2020-03-05T03:45:35.947" Title="How many lands should I have in my sealed or draft decks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-drafting|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4957" CreationDate="2011-10-03T13:42:18.243" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom is to run around 40% lands in Limited.  This means around 12-13 lands for a 30-card deck, and 16-18 lands for a 40-card deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, you see three variations. Aggressive, low-curve decks (which curve out at at four or five) will run as few as 11/16 lands. Typical decks (one or two colors, curve out around six or seven) will typically to run 12/17 lands. Slower decks (and decks in slower formats) will often run 13/18 lands, especially if they're three-color or hitting a third or fourth land drop is very critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana fixing is always very important - anytime you can run a mana creature/artifact or filter lands of some kind, it's likely in your favor to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as why, in Limited your reliance on never missing a land drop in the first four-six turns is much higher than usual. That consistent ramp up to four-six lands means dropping those higher-cost creatures and game-winning bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: On the subject of mana acceleration, as I previously mentioned, it's almost always in your favor to run what you can (mana fetch spells, mana creatures and artifacts, filter lands, etc.), but depending on how many of them you run, you can sometimes decrease your land count.  Some people reduce by one land per mana/land-generating spell, others say one land per two spells - however, this is usually to a minimum of 15-16 lands in 40-card and 11 lands in 30-card (11 is very uncommon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T18:36:57.597" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T18:36:57.597" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4960" CreationDate="2011-10-03T15:49:14.593" Score="5" ViewCount="6484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; and have it target the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=228956&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; which is encumbering one of my creatures. What happens if the Oblivion Ring is subsequently destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pacifism re-enters play enchanting the same creature as before&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pacifism chooses a new target when it re-enters play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nothing -- Auras can only exist while enchanting a creature, so Pacifism disappears in a poof of smoke when it's exiled, similar to what tokens do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T16:00:08.637" Title="Oblivion Ring targeting an Aura" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4959" CreationDate="2011-10-03T16:00:08.637" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulings on this card's gatherer entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;01/10/2008 If the exiled card is an Aura, that card's owner chooses what it will enchant as it comes back onto the battlefield. An Aura put onto the battlefield this way doesn't target anything, but the Aura's enchant ability restricts what it can be attached to. If the Aura can't legally be attached to anything, it remains exiled forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear that option 2 in your question is the correct interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-03T16:00:08.637" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5042" CreationDate="2011-10-03T20:37:12.970" Score="5" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Gears of War board game there are AI cards.  These cards generally refer to AI's that fit a specific criteria (like &quot;all wretch with 3 spaces&quot;).  However the Swarm card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Locust that is 5 or more moment away from the nearest COG figure moves until it is 4 movement away from the nearest COG figure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean all Locust that aren't near you pile up in one spot that is 4 away from where you are standing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AE0nA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1095634/gears-of-war-the-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T00:19:27.590" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T00:19:27.590" Title="Does &quot;Swarm&quot; AI card affect all Locust on the map?" Tags="|gears-of-war|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2011-10-03T22:11:41.830" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing to understand is that magic boosters are not assembled randomly.  The cards are printed in sheets, cut up and packaged in order.  There's one sheet for the rares per set (although there may be more than one printed in slightly different order to thwart box mappers), and the sheets are 11 x 11, or 121 cards.  What's on them isn't super secret or anything, they turn up, Wizards gives them as thank-yous sometimes, or they show up as tournament prizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, at 121 cards for the rare sheet, you can see this actually come out in the set design, as a constraint on the designers is that they have to be able to print and package the cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Innistrad has 53 non-double faced rares and 15 non-double faced mythic rares.   53 * 2 rares on the sheet + 15 mythics on the sheet = 121 cards! Therefore there are 7 times more rares than mythic rares and a mythic rare is in roughly every 8th booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in order for Army of the Damned to actually be more common than Lilliana of the Veil, that means Army of the Damned would be on the sheet twice, making some other rare a 'secret mythic!'  While anything is of course possible, deceiving customers like that in a way that &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; eventually come out when someone sees the sheet, just doesn't add up for a company like WOTC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, for every time you say &quot;WTFMates, yet another Army of the Damned?&quot;  some kid in a comic shop somewhere is whooping for joy over getting two Lilianas in two packs.  Partly from shop owners dumping the last of one box into another, messing with the distribution, and partly because once the boosters are made wizards does do some sort of pseudo random collating to get in the way of people who would &quot;map&quot; boxes based on the order of the print run.  This means you will occasionally get two of the same non-foil mythic in a single booster box.  (making it possibly look more common.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T21:10:33.820" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T21:10:33.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4964" CreationDate="2011-10-03T22:34:57.870" Score="12" ViewCount="21813" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am currently designing a legacy deck around the new graveyard focused cards from Innistrad. My goal is to get cards in my own graveyard quickly and utilize those as best as I can. Innistrad offers a lot of different mechanics for that, but I am also looking for some really nasty creatures that I can resurrect early on with the good old &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=21153&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=10655&quot;&gt;Victimize&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good creatures for that? I consider the following attributes important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must be able to enter the graveyard (no &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194911&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre&lt;/a&gt; or similar creatures)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must be hard to remove (I tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194908&quot;&gt;Ulamog's Crusher&lt;/a&gt; in the past, but a simple creature destroyer stops him instantly; creatures like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207875&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt; worked way better for me; being hexproof or being indestructible would also be nice to keep my monster save from immediate destruction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must be able to end the game quickly or give me a solid advantage once it is out on the field, because the investment to pull this combo off successfully is rather huge (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214382&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt; would complement my deck really well for example, but is too easy to remove with an appropriate creature destroyer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess there is no perfect creature for what I am looking for, otherwise this mechanic would be overpowered. With a good starting hand (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entomb&quot;&gt;entomb&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=21153&quot;&gt;exhume&lt;/a&gt; + 2 swamps) I am able to bring any creature into play in round 2. Nevertheless I am looking for the best choice of creature for this task. What should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-01T20:41:10.723" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T01:04:55.183" Title="What is the most effective creature that can be resurrected from the graveyard in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2011-10-04T02:25:39.723" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The common name for this type of deck is 'Reanimator.' So a google for 'Legacy Reanimator' will get you what's popular for specific cards in the current metagame and from up to date sets.  I say that not to try to answer 'just google it' but that lists of cards can go out of date fast, so they're not great stack exchange answers.  Also the knowledge that the deck name to search for is 'Reanimator' is important :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To try to make it an answer about the strategy/archetype more than a list that will go out of date with each new set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Creatures with Shroud or Hexproof.  May be obvious but a lot of new players don't realize Shroud only functions on the battlefield and only applies to spells that say 'target.'  Creatures with Shroud are excellent entomb + exhume choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Creatures with an enters the battlefield effect that was at least a decent return on your mana even if they do get doombladed.  e.g., &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243464&quot;&gt;Bogardan Hellkite&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197137&quot;&gt;Terastodon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Creatures that shut down your opponent's answers.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190407&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt; is the obvious go-to, but depending on your meta-game there can be more specific options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Creatures that shut down your opponent's deck period.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205029&quot;&gt;Stormtide Leviathan&lt;/a&gt; doesn't have shroud, but lots of aggroy decks are counting on burn spells if they need to get rid of early creatures.  Even the Rubin Zoo variants usually only have 4 paths/swords so you've got ok odds game 1 when they don't know to mull aggressively for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Meta game choices.  You know your buddy is playing Stax?  How's he feel about &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247354&quot;&gt;Symbiotic Wurm&lt;/a&gt; turn 2?  Since you only need 1-ofs, you can have plenty of meta choices main deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T02:42:48.773" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T02:42:48.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2011-10-04T06:23:13.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, you could just place the clues 1A 2A 3A etc. and when they find the clue you have written down on a piece of paper what the text should read. Same with event cards. When time runs out for the event card and you flip it, you just have another text that corresponds to the number on the event card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1889" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T06:23:13.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2011-10-04T07:57:28.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fybK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent is going to have to topdeck something pretty good to beat you when you're outdrawing him 8 cards to one every turn.  Insult to injury...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T07:57:28.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2011-10-04T08:03:09.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;6) Creatures that get more creatures out of your graveyard every turn: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=196998&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reya Dawnbringer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) Creatures that have a strong &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; effect, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel of Despair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) Creatures that stop weenie hordes, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83754&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blazing Archon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) In a pinch, an emergency break: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=206329&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T08:03:09.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4970" CreationDate="2011-10-04T13:44:25.027" Score="3" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;My left hand opponent opened one diamond. Partner doubled. Right hand opponent passed. I was sitting in fourth seat with eight points, and something like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) KJxxx  (h) Jxx (d) xx (c) Kxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &quot;jumped&quot; to TWO spades (instead of bidding the minimum one spade). With Qxx in spades and 13 points, partner took us to four, which went down two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner said, &quot;I thought your jump meant you had an opening hand. That, opposite my 13 means game.&quot; My opponents were also confused by the sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reply was that since I was forced to bid one spade with &quot;nothing,&quot; a jump to two spades (which was the right level), meant that I was making a &quot;non-forced&quot; bid with a real (intermediate) hand of 7-10 points. Given that he had a minimum takeout double (and a minimum spade holding), I expected partner to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opposite a takeout double, does a jump bid of &quot;one more than necessary&quot; in a suit indicate moderate values? Or was partner right to expect an opening hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T13:08:43.543" Title="What Are the Requirements for a &quot;Jump&quot; Bid Opposite a Takeout Double in Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4969" CreationDate="2011-10-04T14:43:08.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you're correct, and your partner is talking nonsense when he says &quot;I thought your jump meant you had an opening hand&quot;.  Everything I can find on the subject suggests that the jump is appropriate for a hand with 8+ HCP, or perhaps 9-11 modified HCP as per this bridge tip from pro player Eddie Kantar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When responding to a takeout double, add one extra point for an unbid&#xA;  four card major and two extra points for an unbid five card major.&#xA;  Then if your total comes to 9-11 working points ( do not count&#xA;  anything for jacks or queens in any suit bid by an opponent) make a&#xA;  single jump response, not forcing. With less than 9 working points,&#xA;  make a non-jump response. With more than 11 revalued points, cuebid&#xA;  the opponent's suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 8HCP and a diamond doubleton, you might be borderline, but you're still within your rights to test the waters.  Tell your partner (and opponents) to read up on responses to takeout doubles!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T14:43:08.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4972" CreationDate="2011-10-04T17:32:53.293" Score="9" ViewCount="5572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone loves the Diabolic Tutor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/seSGS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Get me something wonderful&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how many tutors is too many? If I'm running a mono-black or black-heavy deck, is there any reason to not just put in four Tutors? What are the possible downsides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2018-10-05T03:04:27.420" Title="How many Diabolic Tutors is too many?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2011-10-04T18:31:47.220" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two basic reasons to use a tutor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You have a card that you want more than 4 of, but there is no similar substitute available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) To be able to have a 'toolbox' of 1-of answers to different types of threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the card in your deck that you wish you could have more than 4 of?  What are possible substitutes for it in the format you're building for?  Is using a turn and extra mana to get at it preferable to the substitute card?  The primary reason &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to put in a tutor is if your deck can reliably deliver on its designed win condition without needing access to more than 4 of a particular card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toolbox decks are usually meta-game haterators, so it's tough to talk about them in the abstract.  Mono-black isn't usually known for it though.  Toolbox tutors are more often things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218006&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Birthing Pod&lt;/a&gt; searching up creatures with desirable enters-the-battlefield effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diabolic Tutor specifically, your biggest challenge on that one is how it impacts your mana curve.  What are the 5-drop cards in your deck you're tutoring for that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; hit on T5 in order to win?  What 4-drop card are you giving up the opportunity to play on curve in order to tutor for something that comes out next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 4 is not a good time to be making a play that doesn't impact the board state.  Turn 4 is the kill turn for aggro decks in Standard/Modern that got a half-decent starting hand.  Tapping out for a tutor also communicates a lot of information to your opponent.  e.g., The only reason you tapped out for 4 in mono-black standard and played a tutor instead of an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214386&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Obliterator&lt;/a&gt;, was to go tutor for an Obliterator.  They will do everything they can to be ready for it next turn! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In decks for big multiplayer games, go for it, play all the tutors you can.  When games regularly go over 10 turns, getting what you need late is more important than playing on-curve early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T00:54:10.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T00:54:10.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2011-10-04T19:59:14.807" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you feel about a turn 3 Emrakul?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=30552&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt;, putting &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193452&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; into your graveyard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put Emrakul's graveyard triggered ability onto the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74475&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goryo's Vengeance&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Emrakul&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swing!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=80250&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Through the Breach&lt;/a&gt; can also be used for redundancy if you can fit red in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that this is definitely an all-in strategy (if &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74475&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goryo's Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; is countered, then your graveyard and all of your other targets are shuffled in with no Emrakul on the board to make up for it) but still is pretty cool, I think!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=30552&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/919Cg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Entomb&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193452&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ay8T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74475&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tELHu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Goryo&amp;#39;s Vengeance&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=80250&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V308s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Through the Breach&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-10-04T20:25:05.480" LastActivityDate="2011-10-04T20:25:05.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2011-10-05T09:26:31.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is almost too broad.  It depends entirely on your deck, doesn't it?  If your deck is a fast black aggro that plans to overwhelm with creatures by turn 5 then obviously taking time out to tutor up a card is an unacceptable loss of tempo.  If on the other hand you're running a combo where you can't afford not to have drawn all your pieces by turn 5, then some kind of tutoring will be a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do think Diabolic Tutor is a well-costed card: 4 mana and a card is a sizeable investment to make, to the point where it may very well not be worth it in any fast environment of finely tuned decks.  It's more likely to be worth it in slow formats like Limited (where you plan to win by drawing your bombs) or possibly, as mentioned, Multiplayer - though I would caution that alerting your opponents that you just drew the best card in your deck may increase your chances of them viewing you as a threat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T09:26:31.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4992" CreationDate="2011-10-05T14:11:04.803" Score="19" ViewCount="4057" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of a few computer board game designers, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/&quot;&gt;Vassal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cyberboard.brainiac.com/&quot;&gt;Cyberboard&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zuntzu.com/&quot;&gt;Zun Tzu&lt;/a&gt;. Which would work best for building a custom card game? Note, I am willing to use one I haven't heard of, so long as it meets my needs. Things of note include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I need 2 decks of cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player has their own private hand, but will have some cards in play in front of them that can be seen by all users.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each card will have several characteristics, basically several integers tied to the value of the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want this to work with Windows 7 and XP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would be nice to play over a LAN or the internet, but this is not required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would prefer to not have to have any graphics at this time, I want to just have some text labels on each card for the time being.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few other things about me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm am intermediate Java programmer, with some knowledge of C and C++ as well. I know scripting languages like Python at an intermediate level as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would prefer to have something relatively easy, but this is not required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T18:52:30.237" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T01:39:46.463" Title="Which computer board game designer works best for card games?" Tags="|game-design|prototyping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4977" CreationDate="2011-10-05T20:51:32.097" Score="0" ViewCount="5746" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flopturnriver.com/Holdem-Expected-Value-10-Players.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flopturnriver.com/Holdem-Expected-Value-10-Players.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe D is dealer and B is blind, but what is BB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1890" LastEditorUserId="6" LastEditDate="2011-10-05T23:01:05.493" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T15:07:50.753" Title="What do the abbreviations BB, SB and D mean in Texas Hold 'Em?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4976" CreationDate="2011-10-05T22:53:56.250" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;BB = Big Blind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SB = Small Blind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D = Dealer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-10-05T22:53:56.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5000" CreationDate="2011-10-05T23:32:38.287" Score="3" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was &quot;West,&quot; that is, the opening leader. My left and right hand opponents had alternated diamond and spade bids, neither supporting the other, suggesting something like 6-1 misfits in both suits (which actually turned out to be the case), and South bought the contract at four spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I held something like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠xx&#xA;♥Qxx&#xA;♦JTxx&#xA;♣Qxxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;led a low heart (the unbid major). This gave the opponents a free finesse, and the contract was (barely) made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had also given consideration to a diamond lead from the JT sequence. Since South had only one diamond, he couldn't finesse out the T or capture it when guarded by xx, after capturing the J with a higher honor. With honors in all three plain suits, I even thought of (and rejected) the &quot;safe&quot; lead of a low trump. The last alternative was to lead the fourth club, which at least left TWO guards for the queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I make a bad lead? Should I have led either a diamond or spade, instead, even though both had been bid by the opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T19:02:36.273" Title="In Bridge, Is it Sometimes Good to Lead an Opponent's Suit on Defense?" Tags="|bridge|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4978" CreationDate="2011-10-06T09:42:49.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I certainly sometimes lead opponent's trumps when I can see literally nothing else attractive to do.  As a way of getting the lie of the land it's pretty safe.  And it's not like you were planning on making any quick tricks with those spades in your hand, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems especially attractive here.  With a horrible 6-1 spade fit it's not like drawing trumps is likely to be opponents' first priority.  Knocking out dummy's sole trump may limit the opponent's options and eliminates the possibility of the &quot;free finesse&quot; that you mentioned.  In what is otherwise a vacuum of information about which unbid suit to lead, I'd probably have gone for it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T09:42:49.153" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4981" CreationDate="2011-10-06T14:00:41.773" Score="5" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a moderately skilled chess player; I can beat most casual players and survive quite a while against class A, expert, or master players. Unfortunately, virtually all of my skill is in control of the center and defense. I have almost no ability to then pin someone down and actually win the game; if a person is close to my skill level or above, they will likely ultimately win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any resources for learning more offensive strategies? Even if the techniques are a little heavy handed, I could learn from seeing them. Most guides I've seen focus on a balanced style, but I feel with such an unbalanced one already, those wouldn't help as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1891" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T16:26:38.897" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T21:19:19.373" Title="What are good resources or techniques to improve one's offence or finishing game?" Tags="|chess|teaching|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2011-10-06T17:17:01.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a book of checkmate problems, and go through the whole thing.  Then find another, and do the same thing.  When you are done, you will have no problem attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your feel comfortable with simpler checkmate problems, get a book of general problems.  After all, in a real game, not every move is forced checkmate :) One of my favorites (which is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; challenging) is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0035XP45U&quot;&gt;Winning Chess Tactics Illustrated&lt;/a&gt; by I.A. Horowitz.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another very good site for these is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chesstempo.com&quot;&gt;chesstempo.com&lt;/a&gt;, which will adjust the difficulty of the problems it shows you based on how well you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get a bit better (after, say, 5000 problems), if you are &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; interested in improving your attacking skills, I highly recommend Vladimir Vukovic's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1857444000&quot;&gt;Art of Attack in Chess&lt;/a&gt;.  Also, study the games of World Champions &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mikhail_Tal&quot;&gt;Tal&lt;/a&gt; and especially &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alexander_Alekhine&quot;&gt;Alekhine&lt;/a&gt;, widely considered to be the greatest attackers of all time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T17:17:01.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4994" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:10:54.353" Score="24" ViewCount="5067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got &lt;em&gt;Dixit&lt;/em&gt;, and it's been a big hit with a couple groups of friends, however we're already finding it's replay value to be declining. I'm sure in a few months it would be very fun again (though never again as good as the first time, marveling at the beautiful artwork), but rather than wait it out I thought it might be nice to try some variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played one game where each player had a second hand of the description cards from &lt;em&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/em&gt;, which we used instead of coming up with our own descriptors, and that worked pretty well. (We played that you kept 4 cards in that hand, and when you played one you could discard up to 2 others for new cards.) &lt;strong&gt;Has anyone tried anything else to successfully vary the &lt;em&gt;Dixit&lt;/em&gt; gameplay?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="274" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T18:38:47.300" LastActivityDate="2019-01-02T12:32:14.303" Title="Dixit variations to increase replay value?" Tags="|house-rules|dixit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4987" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:40:26.620" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to remember the name of a game so I can look up strategies for it for my discrete math class.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is laid out with however many rows of marbles or stones and each player can choose however many stones they want from one row per turn, where the object of the game is to have their opponent choose the last stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a very old game and I'm interested in the math behind the game. I just can't remember its name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-10-06T21:08:01.277" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T21:08:01.277" Title="Trying to remember a classic board game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="4988" CreationDate="2011-10-06T18:47:55.380" Score="14" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;How important is it to always buy the most expensive thing that you can with your first buys in Dominion? I appreciate that in the later stages of the game you often have more money than you can profitably spend, especially since the more expensive cards are often very situational. However, in the first three turns or so, how important is it to always buy the most expensive cards that I can afford with my copper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-10-07T04:06:46.307" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T16:29:23.683" Title="Maxing out your buys in early Dominion" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-06T19:14:32.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on the strategy you're going for. In the general case, buying the most expensive cards you can afford earlier will allow you to use on average more powerful abilities sooner. Although in the grand scheme of things, these slightly more powerful cards you purchased early on may not play along with your strategy, and may actually slow you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:14:32.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4573" CreationDate="2011-10-06T19:23:44.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are using the most basic strategy (just treasure and no actions) than your deck wants $19 worth of treasure before buying the first Province. This number isn't random, it's been found by WanderingWinder (a top 10 player on isotropic) by optimizing a simulation bot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://users.telenet.be/jeroenaga/dominion.jnlp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Simulate it yourself&quot;&gt;Simulate it yourself&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(choose the Big Money Ultimate (Opt) strategy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to your question is: if you have less than $19 total treasure in your deck, buy a Gold over your first Province. (If you include action cards (like Smithy), the answer will of course be different)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1894" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:23:44.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4983" CreationDate="2011-10-06T19:36:48.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's called Nim, and it's an excellent (and common) game for discrete math studies.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nim&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's article.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T19:36:48.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-06T19:44:30.820" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule, not important. Far better to have a strategy that you follow than to buy the most expensive card you can afford.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value of a card will vary depending on your deck, and knowing when to buy a less expensive card that your deck needs (or nothing at all) is, I think, part of the transition from a beginner to intermediate player. If there's a Chapel, it's almost always worth spending $3 on it in your first turns, as getting it early is more important than waiting for an unlucky draw with only $2. For certain kingdom sets you &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2011/04/06/the-five-worst-5-cards/&quot;&gt;might not want any $5's at all&lt;/a&gt;, so buying one just because you have $5 would be deplorable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, as @thesunneversets points out, Silver is often what your deck needs instead of a  $3, $4 or even $5 action if you're not hitting $6 enough for gold. Buy the card your deck most needs that you can afford!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-10-07T05:47:06.663" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T05:47:06.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-06T21:14:21.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a very vague rule of thumb, I like buying a Silver on one of my first two turns, to keep my purchasing power from fizzling as my deck gets clogged up with &quot;cool&quot; action cards.  What this means in practice is that, if my Coppers divide 5 and 2 over my first two draws, I'll seriously consider buying a Silver with the 5; unless there's a 5-cost action card that &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; suits my style and strategy.  Not doing enough &quot;boring&quot; plays like buying more money is one of the main reasons for people losing Dominion way more often than they should, as far as I can see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T21:14:21.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-06T21:59:26.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strength difference between $3s and $4s isn't that big.  Underbuying at $5 and $6 should require a lot more thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-10-06T21:59:26.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2011-10-07T00:14:23.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checkmate and other chess puzzles can be a good way to practice but what you probably need to do is study the Endgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a deep and nearly endless area of study but likely even some study of how to win in a variety of endgame situations will help your game considerably. It will, for example, help you identify when you can win with a King &amp;amp; Pawn vs. a King and when it is a likely draw (or more likely when it is a King &amp;amp; Pawn vs. King and Pawn whether either player can win). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a bit out of date but a very solid starting point would be my favorite chess book, Emanuel Lasker's Manual of Chess. The whole book likely would help your game, but his opening chapters cover the endgame in some detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence the art of finishing chess games is the art of getting to (and then accurately achieving) a winning position. The simplest winning positions are endgame positions with few pieces left on the board. In fact many puzzles are endgame positions disguised with the addition of additional (but unnecessary) pieces on the board. Once you are confident that you can win with just a few pieces (and in particular that you know when you can win with an extra pawn or a given pawn position vs when you can draw vs when you will lose) your middlegame likely will gain in confidence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a generalization but I've found that beginners at times end up in the &quot;endgame&quot; through back and forth trades of pieces/loss of pieces and then may spend a lot of time trying to find how/if one side can win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More advanced players will often strive to win in the middlegame (and may at times) but then flounder a bit when their attacks are met and the game moves to an endgame situation (which becomes a bit rarer for players of some skill) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Experts (and masters) will less often see &quot;real&quot; endgame situations (as they will more often recognize that they have lost and resign) but their skill and confidence with their endgame is what allows them to avoid it (for the most part). In timed, tournament chess this confidence and skill will often be decisive as the clock becomes a very real factor especially in complex endgame situations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="842" LastEditorUserId="842" LastEditDate="2011-10-31T20:42:55.503" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T20:42:55.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-10-07T01:25:55.490" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.battlegroundsgames.com/nutshellbge.html&quot;&gt;Battlegrounds Gaming Engine&lt;/a&gt; is one that you don't seem to have considered, but perhaps you should. It sounds like it fits all your criteria except for #6 - you need to supply images of each card; however, I believe there are free card-creation apps that can create such graphics for you, pulling the info for each card from a database or Excel spreadsheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One nice thing about BGE is that you won't have to do any programming, scripting, or XML-editing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1896" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T01:25:55.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2011-10-07T07:19:46.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;ZunTzu meets your requirements providing players do not need to save their decks between games.&#xA;You would have to provide your text labels as images - easily done with Paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1898" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T07:19:46.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2011-10-07T08:18:58.817" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! You simply have to fix rules about the sentence you want to use when it's your turn to play. For example: you must say a movie title, or lyrics from a song, or you can only make a grimace of some sort, or just a sound, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried something else that completely changes the game: &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt;, the other players give you a card of their choosing, and &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; you choose a title for your card. Note that it's still your card that must be guessed, but knowing what cards will be in the game, you can choose a sentence differently. This works well when all the players know all the cards and know exactly what words they have to use when playing a given card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T08:18:58.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4938" CreationDate="2011-10-07T09:45:57.067" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the rules have changed recently (which is entirely possible), treetop rangers can be blocked by creatures with reach, since reach allows a creature to block as if it had flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1877" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T09:45:57.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-07T15:15:28.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Disclaimer: the sets I play are the base Dominion + Intrigue, so things may be different with newer cards.) I usually try to buy two action cards with my first two hands if they combine into a good strategy. If there are no good fours, I would get a silver instead of trying to choose between Thief, Gardens and Feast. If the only five on the table is a Festival, it only works as +2 money in the first five hands or so, and you would still want to intentionally overstock action cards for Festival to make better sense than Silver, which rarely is a good idea (it is kinda embarrassing to play six actions, with everybody looking at you playing the whole deck, gain two more action cards, and only end up with 5 money to buy yourself a Dutchy). If I get two action cards in the first shuffle, and they indeed make up a reasonable strategy, then I make sure to get two or more silvers in the next two hands. With more than two actions in your early deck, chances are you won't be able to use these actions effectively; if you have +actions in them, chances are that the matching action won't come up, and if you have four actions in 14 cards after the second shuffle, chances are you will have too many terminal actions in any given hand. I think my wife always buys a silver with 3 money in the first two hands, even if there's Chapel on the table, and we probably win equally often in our games of three or four with the friends (and more often than the friends do, because the friends rotate, and we stay :) ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a related, more specific question: with a Coppersmith and four Coppers, should you go for Province in your third hand, or for gold? There was a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1224/how-can-i-effectively-use-the-coppersmith&quot;&gt;Coppersmith discussion&lt;/a&gt; on SE, although this particular question was only briefly touched upon. (I agree with that discussion that it only makes sense to buy Coppersmith if you can trash it two or three shuffles later, so it must be a pretty peculiar lineup of cards for me to be interested in it as a first buy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-10-07T15:15:28.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-08T10:33:00.233" Score="2" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2nd edition includes cards for the Mexico map, which as far as I understand are rather indispensable for the 2 and 3 player variant of the game. My question is: is it possible to differ between the first and second edition on the box's outsite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T09:55:59.047" Title="How to recognize the 2nd edition of Railways Of The World?" Tags="|railroad|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="4999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-08T15:24:45.327" Score="3" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an old tile game with rectangular tiles, ivory, with different colored numbers on them. Some have 2 numbers one on top and one on bottom, others have one number with words on top like draw two, skip, reverse, dead end. It has racks to put the tiles on. It reminds me of Rummikub or Uno, but each tile has either 2 numbers or a number and words. I need directions for play and the name of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="patti" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-09T08:36:25.290" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T08:36:25.290" Title="What is this old tile game I inherited?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4978" CreationDate="2011-10-08T18:55:29.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the opponents were not overbidding, your lead was perfectly fine. (though with lead problems, you ought to give the complete auction, as that matters a lot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elaborating on my comment to thesun...'s answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually when dummy bids and rebids a suit and you have a weak stopper like JTxx, there is real danger of that suit being set up or losers from declarer's hand immediately going away (for instance AKQxxx opposite void and declarer throws away heart/club losers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such auctions (where dummy shows a real suit) usually call for an attacking lead and a trump lead is quite bad in that respect. There is also the distinct possibility the dummy is void in trumps and you are giving declarer a finesse he could not take, if you lead a trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A diamond lead is similarly bad as you are just giving declarer the option to throw away his losers immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only reasonable choices (IMO) on this hand are either a heart or a club and either is ok, as to beat the contract you would probably need tricks from both suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw: Try not to make conclusions from just one hand. Even a 90% odds on play has to fail 10% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2011-10-08T19:02:36.273" LastActivityDate="2011-10-08T19:02:36.273" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4999" CreationDate="2011-10-08T20:28:09.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3839/uno-dominos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Uno Dominos&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Board Game Geek -site for the game (linked above), I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.centralconnector.com/GAMES/unodominos.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these instructions&lt;/a&gt; on how to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PH1w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Uno Dominos box, racks and tiles in bags.&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The design shown in the picture above seems to be a pretty common one. There's another kind of tile design, done by Mattel, that can be seen in some images on the Board Game Geek -site and the instructions linked above. The rules should be the same regardless of what the tiles look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1188" LastEditorUserId="1188" LastEditDate="2011-10-09T07:32:44.660" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T07:32:44.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2179" CreationDate="2011-10-09T00:30:07.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a solution that has worked out great for us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We colored coded the items from each set using colored markers on the thin white side edge of each of the hexes, board pieces, etc based on the set with which it had arrived.  We used light pastel markers, the effect is not noticable during standard game play but makes it incredibly easy to group cards at the end of the gam&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify, I recommend the original game items be left white and the other pieces be filled in....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps - let me know if you want a picture to help &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1900" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T04:15:04.800" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T04:15:04.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-10-09T02:24:16.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess (as any other complex system) consists of: 1) Parts(pieces), 2) Interrelationships between them, 3) Goal/purpose. Seeing these interrelations  and understanding roles/functions pieces have when interconnected is the most critical skill to acquire early. The same way as a QB must develop a great field vision with the ability to quickly scan the field for open receivers, in order to instantaneously capture the current line-up of all players on the field, who is being blocked, who is open, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These basic contacts are: a) attack (2 enemy pieces involved), b) protection (2), c) restriction (2), d) blocking/pin (3 pieces involved). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above contacts are linear in nature, two points on the line, mere geometry, and every 4-year old kid can see it easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be absorbed in the first few weeks until it becomes second nature to give you a great board vision where you see/feel board contacts almost unconsciously and with no effort (like QB). It is then a solid foundation to teach and learn all other concepts in chess (tactics, strategy, coordination of pieces, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've dedicated my &lt;a href=&quot;http://iplayoochess.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chess blog&lt;/a&gt; to issues of modern teaching and learning chess backed on recent findings in neuroscience and psychology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1901" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2011-10-12T18:27:10.210" LastActivityDate="2011-10-12T18:27:10.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-09T10:06:16.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, it's important to buy the most expensive card you can afford that works with your strategy for this set of available cards. Sometimes, this is a point below the coin I have in hand; my strategies generally don't result in lower than that unless I've got multiple buy as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no cards of the available coin total are going to help, it's worth looking one point cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Silver and Gold, when available, are usually good choices, but targeted action cards should trump them if you already have plenty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T10:06:16.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4984" CreationDate="2011-10-09T16:29:23.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to weigh the cards in play, both on their own value plus the value of any combinations you can use them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If other players are buying a lot of attack cards, you may want to pick up a defense card on one of the first two turns (Moat, Lighthouse, or Watchtower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, watch what other players are buying.  For example, in my games at work (we play every day at lunch), Fishing Village gets sold out very quickly.  If you don't buy at least one during the first two turns, there may not be any left to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value of some cards may depend on what other cards are in play.  The value of Smugglers, for example, goes down if Colony and Platinum are in play.  The value of Village goes down if any of the other +2 action cards are in play.  The value of Horse Traders, Cellar, Witch, Torturer, Sea Hag, Familiar, Montebank, and Young Witch go down if Chapel is in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2011-10-09T16:29:23.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5011" CreationDate="2011-10-09T21:25:05.097" Score="13" ViewCount="15434" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Innistrad came out in the beginning of September 2011, the most expensive card was &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/magic_single_card.asp?cn=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&amp;amp;sn=Innistrad&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, selling for a little over $25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYUA5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KYUA5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Liliana of the Veil&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card kept this price for almost a month. On September 30th the price suddenly increased - a week later the price has already doubled. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/magic_single_card.asp?cn=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&amp;amp;sn=Innistrad#pricegraph&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This graph&lt;/a&gt; shows the development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What caused this sudden increase? Has someone discovered a combo that is really strong or is there a specific deck that runs well and requires Liliana? I am asking because I was lucky and got 2 of them from boosters and I wonder how I could put them to good use. I also want to use this example to learn about price development in trading card games as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Sorry guys, I am pretty stupid... Innistrad came out on September 30th, not in the beginning... Mixed that up somehow. The increase started the day Innistrad was released. Thanks to Ian for pointing that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T16:01:05.700" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T16:01:05.700" Title="What caused &quot;Liliana of the Veil&quot; to double its price during a single week?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T02:32:11.960" Score="28" ViewCount="9540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game of Settlers of Catan the other day and one of my fellow players rolled a seven. One of the other players was trying to convince the person who rolled seven to put the robber on me, because he thought I had a resource that I didn't. So I showed everyone my hand to prove I didn't have it. Then, the player who rolled seven placed the robber on a different player and a huge argument broke out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've lost my rule book, so I'm asking: is showing your resource cards like this cheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1903" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T19:43:05.390" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T12:35:33.880" Title="Can I show my resource cards to other players in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5007" CreationDate="2011-10-10T03:44:11.670" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cannot show other players your cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4620-resource-cards-do-i-always-have-keep-my-resource-cards-face-down&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource Cards - Do I always have to keep my Resource Cards face down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T00:07:25.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5006" CreationDate="2011-10-10T04:28:01.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reasons are that some big decks in the current metagame are mono-black, UB control, and Solar Flare - all of them will run her.  A planeswalker that protects herself and whose discard is particularly useful in the current block (and has convereted mana cost of 3) is very, very playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solar Flare is the one people seem to be liking quite a bit - the combination of things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241833&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sun Titan&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235597&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liliana&lt;/a&gt; (along with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227087&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226758&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forbidden Alchemy&lt;/a&gt; for discard/flashback fodder) is actually very mean.  So yeah, the combination of good Solar Flare decks and it's playability in the current metagame have driven it up pretty quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2011-10-10T04:34:24.423" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T04:34:24.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5006" CreationDate="2011-10-10T11:30:10.300" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic cards rise in price when the pro players start analysing the new sets and proposing that certain cards will be key players in the new Standard.  I believe Liliana has attracted a lot of favourable press, and has appeared in some successful &quot;Solar Flare&quot; decklists at big events lately: of course people are going to jump on that bandwagon, in case she turns out to the be the next big tournament all-star Planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, a cautionary word from channelfireball's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/traderous-instinct-innistrad%E2%80%99s-immediate-impact/&quot;&gt;Traderous Instinct column&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Over the past few days, Lilly has started making an end run toward&#xA;  Jace, the Mind Sculptor prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;She’s out of stock both here and at Star City, and if you want her on&#xA;  eBay you’re going to have to spend at least $55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I had one for trade at the moment, I would be asking for around $70&#xA;  worth of stuff in return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While many people immediately point to Jace as the obvious comp for&#xA;  Liliana, a better comparison is Tezzeret, Agent of Bolas. That card&#xA;  debuted around $45 retail, and had fallen to around $30-$35 by the&#xA;  first weekend it was tournament legal. The deck performed well, and&#xA;  the card gained $25-$30 in value overnight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yeah, people REALLY don’t want to miss “the next Jace.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just like Tezzeret, though, Liliana is REALLY narrow. She is currently&#xA;  seeing Standard play, and I don’t expect that to change, but she&#xA;  doesn’t draw cards, bounce creatures, lock your opponent out of the&#xA;  game, and then win the game like Jace does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The thing is, though, Magic players like to have fun – even tournament&#xA;  players. And for many Spikes, fun is roughly equivalent to playing the&#xA;  most wonky, slow, toolsy control deck that it’s possible to crush the&#xA;  opposition with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Much like mono black control, people REALLY want Solar Flare style&#xA;  decks to be good. So when two show up in the top 16 at an open, game&#xA;  on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even if Solar Flare is tier-1, there’s no way Liliana holds a $60+&#xA;  price tag for long. She’s only there because she’s a planeswalker and&#xA;  we still haven’t really figure out how to value those yet, five years&#xA;  after their inception. I recommend that you sell on Liliana right now&#xA;  and buy back in when the hype has died down somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T11:30:10.300" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2011-10-10T12:04:58.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you already have a long route trough the center of the board, and you are waiting on cards of a certain color to finish a short route, it's often better to (temporary) give up on it and draw new routes. You waste a lot of turns drawing blind train cards, and can have quick wins on easily connected new routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Europe version, building a station &quot;costs&quot; you 4 points. This is usually worthwhile, since the cheapest route earns you 5 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to pick the face-up locomotives, instead of lucky-drawing 2 face down cards when you are waiting for a color. The chance of drawing the color you need is lower then you might think, and you waste a lot of turns, which is fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing 1 on 1, save up cards in your hand longer and build your track almost at once. Less chance of being blocked, and the other player is usually playing on another part of the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When picking routes at the start of the game, plan your routes trough the center of the map instead over the sides of the map. Further on in the game you have a higher chance of connecting new routes to your main line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the eyes of your opponent, and throw your opponent off by looking at a spot on the map that you have absolutely no interest in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep some locomotives in your back pocket ;) ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1905" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T12:04:58.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-10T12:22:03.127" Score="11" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played one game so far and it was with 7 players so that might not have been a normal experience...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got the feeling that most cards in Age 3 are simply not affordable because they need so many resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that a common thing, &lt;em&gt;i.e.&lt;/em&gt;, you'd have to deliberately focus on resource cards if you want to build a lot in Age 3?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it just bad playing on the part of me (and others)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe it's even an effect of having so many players?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT to elaborate on my experience: I actually won the game so there's no complaint there. I had around 4 brown/gray buildings and my neighbors had roughly the same amount. I don't think I had one of those yellow free resources cards though. When Age 3 came I realized that about half my hand was impossible to build because neither me nor my neighbors had the necessary resources. I eventually relied on the few cards I could build and a lot of freebies from previous cards (I think I placed about 5 buildings for free). IIRC I never trashed a card in the last age but I did build my last two wonder stages...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorDisplayName="user21" LastEditDate="2011-10-11T01:46:09.473" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T01:46:09.473" Title="Is it common to have too few resources for most cards in Age 3 of &quot;7 Wonders&quot;?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5013" CreationDate="2011-10-10T12:48:58.190" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, Seven Wonders is &lt;em&gt;meant to be&lt;/em&gt; a 7-player game!  You got the &quot;normal experience&quot;.  It's not as if resources are much less scarce in the 3-player game - you do remove more than half the cards from the mix in that game, after all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never found the Age 3 cards to be &quot;unaffordable&quot;, so yes, I would suggest that if you find yourself unable to take actions other than &quot;discard for 3 coins&quot; in Age 3, you're probably playing suboptimally to some degree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, when I say I can &quot;afford&quot; an Age III card, I don't usually mean &quot;pay the exact resources for&quot; it.  I mean one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be able to pay for most of it, but have a big stockpile of cash to buy the extra resources I need from my neighbours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use yellow cards providing &quot;one free resource of any kind&quot; to plug the gaps in my production.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use my Wonder's special power to get free resources or builds, if applicable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep a close eye on &quot;upgrade chains&quot; of cards from Age I that get me free cards from Age II that then get me free cards from Age III.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in many cases I'm shortcutting cards into play instead of actually paying for them.  But I definitely think that if, more than once or twice in Age III, you're looking at your hand and thinking &quot;there's nothing here I can play, at all&quot;, something has gone badly wrong with your strategy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T12:48:58.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2011-10-10T18:15:09.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Racing Demon / Pounce / Nertz / Nerts&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An excellent (if very hectic) game that I used to play often in large family groups is &quot;Racing Demon&quot; or &quot;Pounce&quot;, although Wikipedia suggests that it's more commonly known in North America as &quot;Nertz&quot;.  As long as you have one pack of cards per player, and those decks have distinct backs, it certainly works well with 3 to 7 people, although as you add more players the number of limbs rushing to place cards down in the centre of the table increases - how you feel about that additional chaos probably dictates the maximum number of players. :)  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/patience/nerts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules of the game are at pagat.com&lt;/a&gt;.  Essentially, you have to run through the cards in your deck solitaire-style while trying to keep an eye out for opportunities to move your cards onto the piles in the common area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T18:15:09.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5007" CreationDate="2011-10-10T20:19:46.910" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, but it's common to play with a house rule that you can or must display your resource cards face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T20:19:46.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5019" CreationDate="2011-10-10T20:23:12.083" Score="10" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Monty Python Fluxx&quot; the wording on the &quot;Finger of God&quot; Keeper is a bit ambiguous. Can its special power be used on another player's cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JqCYN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Finger of God card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have this on the table you may smite (i.e. discard) any Creeper.  After smiting, you must put this card back into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T01:43:26.093" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T01:43:26.093" Title="Scope of &quot;Finger of God&quot;" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5018" CreationDate="2011-10-10T23:29:14.777" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Finger of God is a Keeper which, if in play in front of you, allows you to &quot;smite (i.e. discard)&quot; any Creeper, at the cost of returning Finger of God to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question here is what &quot;smite (i.e. discard)&quot; can possibly mean.  If you're technically-minded, &quot;discarding&quot; in Fluxx would seem to refer to the act of discarding a card from your hand.  In this case, the use of Finger of God would be: when you draw a Creeper, instead of putting it directly into play, you have the alternative option of putting it into the discard pile (and presumably drawing another card as usual).  Under this reading, it's very difficult to see how you could use the Finger on other players' cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluxx though isn't really a game that benefits from the players getting &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; technical about the rules, in my opinion.  I'd suggest that &quot;discarding a Creeper&quot; should be interpreted as &quot;move a Creeper card that's in play to the discard pile&quot;.  This is much more satisfyingly SMITEY, after all.  BOOM!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this divine smiteage be employed against the Creeper of another player?  Well, as any God-fearing knight would be able to tell you, the good Lord our God Jehovah is omnipotent and as such can smite any evildoer He likes.  If you want to argue that He is limited to targeting some Creepers and not others then ON YOUR OWN HEATHEN HEAD BE IT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-10T23:29:14.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2011-10-11T05:14:48.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/78954/mousquetaires-du-roy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Les Mousquetaires du Roy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (&quot;The Musketeers of the King&quot; in old French, &quot;Roy&quot; being now spelled &quot;Roi&quot;), that just came out last year is good for that. The story is based on Alexandre Dumas' novel &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Three_Musketeers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Three Musketeers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game, a players takes the part of Milady de Winter, the ennemy  of the heroes. All the other players are a team and incarnate the musketeers: Athos, Porthos, Aramis and D'Artagnan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When played with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 players, each one has a character.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 players, somenone takes Milady and the three others each take a musketeer. The musketeeres have a slightly longer turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 players, someone takes Milady and the two others each take two musketeers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 players, one plays Milady and the other one plays all the musketeers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the game can be played differently, for Milady is a character that can be simulated by random actions. The game loses a bit of fun though. Theoretically, you can play the game alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that there is a fifth musketeer in the box, Tréville, which is the captain, that can be played by an extra player. The pieces needed are included in the box, but the rules for the character can be found online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: this game is supposed to be for 2-5 players, but you can practically play it with &lt;strong&gt;1-6 players&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested it with different number of people including alone, it's not the same game, but all of them are equally interresting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T05:14:48.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="348" CreationDate="2011-10-11T11:52:43.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Spot-It&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/63268/spot-it&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spot-It&lt;/a&gt; supports 2 through 8 on paper, but I've played it with many more players than that. The best part about Spot-It is that there are so many different modes of play, and you can even come up with new ones. We came up with a mode called two-fisted bomb mode which is similar to the mode in the instructions only each player has two cards they have to get rid of until one person is left holding everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T11:52:43.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-11T17:44:49.740" Score="6" ViewCount="10876" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago, my cousin taught me a card game he called &quot;High Nines&quot;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was a trick-taking game, similar to Euchre, though it used the full card deck. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trump cards were worth one point, except for the 9s, which were worth nine. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2s would stay in the score pile of the person who played them, even if they didn't take the trick. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There was a rule that let you double your score for the round, but it could be turned against you, somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this game seem familiar to anyone, and can they point me to a full set of rules for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T11:20:46.997" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T11:31:28.010" Title="What are the rules for the card game &quot;High Nines&quot;?" Tags="|identify-this-game|trick-taking-games|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5034" CreationDate="2011-10-11T17:47:47.460" Score="13" ViewCount="12297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a Commander deck and I'm looking at ways to ramp my mana that won't aid my opponents.  I may eventually use all the listed ramp cards, but, I'd like to keep the restriction for the early game at least (when the draw gods smile on me).  This deck will be a mono-red deck and one of the other players also plays mono-red (but not particularly effectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to avoid, where possible, handing the other mono-red player an advantage by playing cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202629&quot;&gt;Gauntlet of Might&lt;/a&gt; or helping all the other players with something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159264&quot;&gt;Mana Flare&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of something I think will work is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=49440&quot;&gt;Extraplanar Lens&lt;/a&gt; with Snow Covered Mountains (SCM).  It would work since I can be the sole player using SCMs and it works by naming the land card to benefit.  I can also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214345&quot;&gt;Caged Sun&lt;/a&gt; since it's text specifically adds to my mana pool (presuming that tapping a SCM for red mana is &quot;activating it's ability&quot;) and benefits creatures I control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=124220&quot;&gt;Gauntlet of Power&lt;/a&gt; is another obvious contender, since SCMs count as basic lands (they are, in fact of type &quot;Basic Snow Land — Mountain&quot; per &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184814&quot;&gt;Gatherer errata&lt;/a&gt;), but suffers the same problem as Gauntlet of Might with respect to aiding my red playing opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pursue the Snow Covered strategy (they are very uncommon in this area) what other ramps can aid me without unduly aiding my opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other cards that might come to my aid if I dropped the snow-covered idea?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T03:01:33.153" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T12:08:42.263" Title="How can I mana ramp in a Commander game without helping my opponents?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-commander|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5025" CreationDate="2011-10-11T18:05:20.473" Score="5" ViewCount="8383" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reading the text of Caged Sun carefully and comparing it to Gauntlet of Might/Power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Gauntlet of Might (cost 4)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Red creatures get +1/+1.&#xA;  Whenever a Mountain is tapped for mana, its controller adds R to his or her mana pool (in addition to the mana the land produces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Gauntlet of Power (cost 5)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As Gauntlet of Power enters the battlefield, choose a color.&#xA;  Creatures of the chosen color get +1/+1.&#xA;  Whenever a basic land is tapped for mana of the chosen color, its controller adds one mana of that color to his or her mana pool (in addition to the mana the land produces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Caged Sun (cost 6):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As Caged Sun enters the battlefield, choose a color.&#xA;  Creatures you control of the chosen color get +1/+1.&#xA;  Whenever a land's ability adds one or more mana of the chosen color to your mana pool, add one additional mana of that color to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the Caged Sun's ability prevents my opponents from benefiting, while providing the benefits of either of the Gauntlets.  Further, it seems like Caged Sun could be interpreted to work with lands of any sort, including non-basic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the cost of this card is $1-$2 and the other two command moderate to large premiums, is there a drawback to this card that I am overlooking?  Surely the 2 mana difference cannot be the overriding factor here, can it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T21:48:31.040" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T21:48:31.040" Title="Is there a &quot;gotcha&quot; with Caged Sun?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5024" CreationDate="2011-10-11T18:35:19.350" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the big drawback is simply the cost. If you hit Gauntlet of Might on turn 4, you can play 8/10-cost cards on turn 5. That's pretty strong, and much stronger than getting 12/14-cost cards on turn 7, at least in non-multiplayer games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you want your mana acceleration to be as cheap as possible, else by the time you can play it you don't need it. That said, Rise of the Eldrazi does bend that rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T18:35:19.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5030" CreationDate="2011-10-11T18:49:11.090" Score="7" ViewCount="2038" Body="&lt;p&gt;In one of my games, there were three passes. Fourth seat elected to &quot;pre-empt,&quot; three hearts with something like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠xx ♥KQJxxxx ♦Jxx ♣x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the opponents doubled (for penalties), after having passed, with something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠Axx ♥ATxx ♦Kxx ♣xxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was down two (doubled, not vulnerable). The three non pre-empters had about 11 points each, hence no bids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked, &quot;Why did you do that? You could have broken even by passing out the hand.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bidder responded, &quot;I bid my cards, that's what you're supposed to do with seven of a suit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did he overlook the issue of &quot;position&quot;? That is, if the bidder had been THIRD seat. after two passes, would pre-empting have made much more sense, to presume that (barring a freak distribution) that fourth seat might have had all the cards and that the pre-empt might then have saved a game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did it make sense to pre-empt in fourth seat with the cards that the bidder held? If his hand had been somewhat stronger (say a king of diamonds in place of the jack), could he have had a positive &quot;expectation&quot; with a different bid, such as a &quot;weak&quot; two hearts, or even one heart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-10-12T21:30:55.900" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T14:10:28.847" Title="In Bridge, Does It Make Sense to Pre-empt in Fourth Seat?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5024" CreationDate="2011-10-11T18:53:05.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Gauntlet of Might there is a component of simple raw rarity adding in.  It's one of the cards that was cut from Unlimited to Revised, so there are just plain very few of them out there.  From Gauntlet of Power to Caged Sun, I would say for one thing you probably are underestimating the impact of +1 mana cost.  For a long time 6 would have been considered basically unplayable and casting something for 5 was only considered if it was going to win the game!  (In recent years WOTC R&amp;amp;D has been building more and more powerful cards pushing up what people will play in constructed decks, on the (correct it seems) belief that players find it a lot more fun to play big stompy creatures than to go back and forth with Counterspell and Sinkhole all day.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is Caged Sun is from a recent set that sold well, there are lots of Caged Suns.  Gauntlet of Power isn't all that old, but it's from a set that sold poorly and was generally considered a flop by wizards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, the primary market for all of them at this time is EDH.  So they're not exactly straight substitutes.  Lots of players would happily run both!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T18:53:05.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5028" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-10-11T19:40:45.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commander (aka Elder Dragon Highlander or EDH) is a &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'magic-the-gathering'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt; variant format which emphasises social interactions, interesting games, and creative deck building. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary characteristic is that decks are centered about a Legendary Creature as the &lt;strong&gt;Commander&lt;/strong&gt; and the Commander's color attributes dictate what other cards may appear in the deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks must consist of 100 cards including the Commander, and duplicates are prohibited (with the exception of basic lands). It also introduces the &quot;Command Zone&quot;, where you can choose to move your commander if it would otherwise go to exile or the graveyard. You can cast your Commander from the command zone, but the casting cost increases by 2 colorless mana each time. Commander can be played 1-on-1 but is usually played with more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T06:13:51.360" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T06:13:51.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5029" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-10-11T19:40:45.107" Score="0" Body="Commander (aka Elder Dragon Highlander or EDH) is a Magic:The Gathering variant which emphasises social interactions, interesting games, and creative deck building. Its primary characteristic is that decks are centered about a Legendary Creature as the Commander. Please also tag these questions with [magic-the-gathering]." OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T14:48:31.757" LastActivityDate="2019-02-08T14:48:31.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5026" CreationDate="2011-10-11T20:20:30.560" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always understood the general rule to be: open with a weaker hand than usual in third seat, but with a stronger hand than usual in fourth seat.  As such, no, it seems like probably a bad idea to pre-empt in the fourth seat, for a couple of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems to miss the point of pre-empting entirely.  Usually, a pre-emptive bid is meant to deprive the opponents of bidding space, in a semi-sacrificial (or possibly fully sacrificial!) way.  If the opponents have shown no interest in bidding... what do you think you're doing?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're not pre-empting to get in the opponents' way... what ARE you doing?  Your partner has passed and thus has about 10-11 points at best.  What contract are you hoping to make with  about, or slightly less than, half the points of the deal?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that - it could be a good idea to bid on a pre-empt hand in fourth if, for instance, you had 90 points below the line in a game of rubber bridge.  But make sure you are doing it for the right reason.  If your partner has a dogmatic belief that pre-empt hands require a pre-empt bid, without any seeming understanding of what a pre-empt is &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt;, then perhaps he needs to be send back to Bridge school for a refresher course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T15:05:05.583" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T15:05:05.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5024" CreationDate="2011-10-11T20:27:32.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the above answers that your &quot;mere&quot; 2cc difference is not &quot;mere&quot; at all, but actually huge.  Consider what kind of creatures you would expect to be able to cast for 4 mana, and what kind of creatures you want for 6 (Titans anyone?), and you'll realise power-to-casting-cost is not a linear progression, but a dramatically steepening curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing that no one else seems to have mentioned yet is that Magic cards have been getting slowly but steadily more powerful with every passing year.  Back in the early days, Juzam Djinn (a 5/5 creature for 2BB, that deals its controller 1 point of damage per turn) was considered an incredible bomb.  Nowadays, a 5/5 creature for 4 &lt;em&gt;without any downside&lt;/em&gt; probably wouldn't even be considered a bargain.  It's not surprising that other types of cards have sustained a bit of power creep too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Wizards seems to be allergic to printing cards with situational downsides (apparently, having your own cards capable of turning against you is &quot;un-fun&quot;).  In the old days cards like Crusade gave +1/+1 to all white creatures, so if you played against another mono-white deck it was practically a dead card.  Apparently cards like Honor of the Pure, that only provide the bonus to your own creatures, leave a much less bitter taste in some players' mouths; so it's not surprising that Caged Sun would follow suit in this regard also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T20:27:32.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5023" CreationDate="2011-10-11T21:07:06.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instants and activated abilities, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/cs/en/78.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Braid of Fire&lt;/a&gt; is great now that mana burn is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is almost the equivalent of saying &quot;Google it,&quot; but &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magiccards.info&lt;/a&gt; has a really powerful queries. For example, the following query gets all red and colorless spells with the words &quot;mana pool&quot; in the game text that also have red color identity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22mana+pool%22+%28c%3Ac+or+c%21r%29+ci%3Ar&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22mana+pool%22+%28c%3Ac+or+c%21r%29+ci%3Ar&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2011-10-11T21:07:06.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5023" CreationDate="2011-10-12T04:41:49.633" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Commander, it's typical for decks of all colors to run &quot;mana rocks&quot; -- artifacts that generate mana. Some of the popular ones are: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247533&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189228&quot;&gt;Mind Stone&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220506&quot;&gt;Thran Dynamo&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247200&quot;&gt;Darksteel Ingot&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=210137&quot;&gt;Worn Powerstone&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193501&quot;&gt;Dreamstone Hedron&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=325&quot;&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=97048&quot;&gt;Mana Crypt&lt;/a&gt;. Some of these help with mana-fixing, others just produce colorless mana; the former is often helpful in a multi-color deck, but for mono-color you can just go with whatever's got the best resource yield. These cards are less sexy than straight-up mana doublers, but they'll give you a consistent edge right out the gate -- and usually draw less hate, to boot. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=89003&quot;&gt;Spectral Searchlight&lt;/a&gt; is a pet card of mine I'd like to throw in here. It lets you play &quot;friendly&quot; by fixing someone else's mana or letting them cast some big spell a turn early, if you wish.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond mana rocks, any color deck can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236907&quot;&gt;Solemn Simulacrum&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=198367&quot;&gt;Pilgrim's Eye&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193405&quot;&gt;Expedition Map&lt;/a&gt; (use it to tutor for cheaty lands like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205421&quot;&gt;Coffers&lt;/a&gt;), and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=135243&quot;&gt;Doubling Cube&lt;/a&gt;. You can play mana Myrs if you seriously need the extra juice, but be ready for them to die to board wipes (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213785&quot;&gt;Plague Myr&lt;/a&gt; deserves special notice -- slap some big equipment on him and he turns into a major threat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are colored cards that can do ramp, too. While green is known for ramping, being able to access almost the entire Vintage card pool (and getting to play higher-cost stuff because the game's not over in just a couple of turns) means every color has access to its own brand of acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black's acceleration is surprisingly strong in the format. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205421&quot;&gt;Cabal Coffers&lt;/a&gt; is very popular in black decks (or multi-color decks running &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=131005&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=124507&quot;&gt;Magus of the Coffers&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193472&quot;&gt;Nirkana Revenant&lt;/a&gt; give you even more Coffers-like effects. Black also has fast mana with old-school ritual effects like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=19592&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3091&quot;&gt;Soldevi Adnate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White has rather little, but you can get extra lands with cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2349&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83311&quot;&gt;Weathered Wayfarer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=178094&quot;&gt;Knight of the White Orchid&lt;/a&gt; (get your land count lower than the rest of the table by using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;type=%20%5B%22Land%22%5D&amp;amp;format=%7C%5B%22Ravnica%20Block%22%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22return%20a%20land%20you%20control%20to%20its%20owner%27s%20hand%22%5D&quot;&gt;Ravnica bouncelands&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=9674&quot;&gt;Serra's Sanctum&lt;/a&gt; is strong in the right deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue's biggest asset is easy card draw. You can put a bunch of mana rocks in your deck without having to worry as much about them messing up your late-game topdecks. Drawing multiple lands per turn also combines nicely with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=198375&quot;&gt;Walking Atlas&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74669&quot;&gt;Patron of the Moon&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=80283&quot;&gt;Azusa&lt;/a&gt; (if you're blue-green).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red has some pretty good fast-mana spells; for Commander, I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=72727&quot;&gt;Mana Geyser&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39846&quot;&gt;Brightstone Ritual&lt;/a&gt;. As far as more lasting options... &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=122123&quot;&gt;Braid of Fire&lt;/a&gt; has already been discussed; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212238&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt; is solid, but will probably draw a lot of hate; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189218&quot;&gt;Soulbright Flamekin&lt;/a&gt; is a quirky and underestimated dude who can buff your creatures and fix your colors at the same time. Red has something else going for it, though: plentiful land, artifact, and creature destruction spells you can use to knock out other players' key ramp component.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a red deck, I'd look to artifacts for ramp first and foremost, just for efficiency's sake. Red's in-color rampy stuff is nifty but I find it difficult to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to generate prodigious amounts of mana to power out X spells, you can also get more bang for your buck with damage doublers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234702&quot;&gt;Fire Servant&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197407&quot;&gt;Quest for Pure Flame&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205268&quot;&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/a&gt;; and copy effects like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233722&quot;&gt;Reverberate&lt;/a&gt; (copied spells have the same X values and kickers as the original).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T15:52:34.217" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T15:52:34.217" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-12T13:51:03.390" Score="3" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a unit of assault Terminators on the board, and they are joined to a Librarian who has the Gate of Infinity power.  Can he, in the movement step, use the power to deepstrike the squad, and then, in the assault step, can that squad assault as normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T04:07:15.470" Title="Can Terminators Assault Through a Gate of Infinity?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5036" CreationDate="2011-10-12T14:06:56.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gate of Infinity allows units to be placed as per the Deep Strike rules.  According to the Deep Strike rules you cannot assault the same turn you arrive via Deep Strike.  You are also subject to any other rules related to Deep Strike.  You scatter, are affected by terrain, and can mishap the same as if you arrived via normal Deep Strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miniwargaming.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=55&amp;amp;t=33750&amp;amp;st=0&amp;amp;sk=t&amp;amp;sd=a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an example forum thread&lt;/a&gt; where the general consensus is that you can't assault through a Gate of Infinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T04:07:15.470" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T04:07:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5039" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:23:58.747" Score="5" ViewCount="2277" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1994 Decipher Star Trek CCG Premier/1st Edition cards were released in black border limited and in white border which I've only recently found described as both alpha and beta releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm processing a huge lot of these cards, is there any way to distinguish between the alpha edition and the beta edition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it's a trivial value issue, but I strongly prefer to put the right collections together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T22:30:11.397" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T22:30:11.397" Title="How do you tell the difference between Alpha and Beta Star Trek CCG?" Tags="|star-trek-ccg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5038" CreationDate="2011-10-13T00:28:14.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The white bordered alpha edition was produced in 1994 and bears 1994 on the copyright line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white bordered beta edition was produced in 1995 and bears 1995 on the copyright line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sets are otherwise indistinguishable.  Additionally there is a silver bordered collector's edition that was distributed in a metal container.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards with changes between Alpha and Beta are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ARMUS - SKIN OF EVIL&lt;/strong&gt; — changed lore from &quot;Malevolent being formed when the inhabitants of Vagra II rid themselves of all the evil they have inside.&quot; to &quot;A malevolent being was formed when the inhabitants of Vagra II rid themselves of all the evil they had inside.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DISTORTION FIELD&lt;/strong&gt; — changed &quot;prevents any beam down here&quot; to &quot;...prevents beam down/up here...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EMERGENCY TRANSPORTER ARMBANDS&lt;/strong&gt; — changed &quot;Beam Personnel up or down at any time, even during a battle before the winner is determined.&quot; to &quot;Beam your Personnel up or down at any time, except during a dilemma (unless specifically permitted). May be used during battle before the winner is determined.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EVACUATION&lt;/strong&gt; — changed &quot;Strength&quot; to &quot;STRENGTH&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FIRESTORM&lt;/strong&gt; — changed &quot;... unless thermal deflectors present. Discard dilemma.&quot; to &quot;...unless thermal deflectors present OR Away Team escapes using emergency transporter armbands. Discard dilemma.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GIUSTI&lt;/strong&gt; — corrected misspelling of &quot;consol&quot; to &quot;console&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**INVESTIGATE TIME CONTINUUM — corrected misspelling of &quot;Dividia&quot; to &quot;Devidia&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;KHITOMER RESEARCH&lt;/strong&gt; — changed from Romulan to Romulan and Klingon mission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LWAXANNA TROI&lt;/strong&gt; — corrected misspelling of &quot;Lwaxanna&quot; to &quot;Lwaxana&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MENDON&lt;/strong&gt; — corrected misspelling of &quot;specialist&quot; to &quot;specialists&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;'T'PAN&lt;/strong&gt; — added MINDMELD skill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THE JUGGLER&lt;/strong&gt; — corrected misspelling of &quot;Lwaxanna&quot; to &quot;Lwaxana&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TORAL&lt;/strong&gt; — changed &quot;...bidding of half sisters, Lursa and B'Etor.&quot; to &quot;...bidding of Duras's sisters, Lursa and B'Etor.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TSIOLKOVSKY INFECTION&lt;/strong&gt; — added &quot;(Not cumulative.)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U.S.S. OBERTH&lt;/strong&gt; — moved staff icon to center of art block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WESLEY CRUSHER&lt;/strong&gt; — removed apostrophe from &quot;Protege' of the Traveler.&quot; to read &quot;Protege of the Traveler.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WIND DANCER&lt;/strong&gt; — corrected misspelling of &quot;Lwaxanna&quot; to &quot;Lwaxana&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T21:02:21.637" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T21:02:21.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4998" CreationDate="2011-10-13T05:38:22.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aparently, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/608573/how-to-recognize-2nd-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;someone has already asked on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;. As I expected, it is very hard to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="424" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T05:38:22.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5018" CreationDate="2011-10-13T09:59:26.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say &quot;any creeper&quot; would mean &lt;em&gt;any player's creeper&lt;/em&gt; or it would say more precisely &quot;any creeper you have in your hand or on the table&quot; I would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't it unlikely that you'd want to discard a creeper that &lt;em&gt;someone else&lt;/em&gt; has though, as the creeper would potentially be stopping them from winning - so discarding it would open up the possibility of them winning?  Unless it's a creeper that has global power to stop ANYBODY winning when it's in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T09:59:26.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4961" CreationDate="2011-10-13T10:35:30.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is part of the game mechanics to bring the distant locust back into the game. Most of the &quot;For Each&quot; Locust AI cards only move the figures one or two areas and only spawn Locust if there are no figures in play of the listed type. Rules of play book suggest that if there is no space to place the piece off the edge of the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said it could be possible to have Locust type A, B, and C at the far end of the map with minimal effects on the player from Locust AI card if there was no card like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1912" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T10:35:30.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5048" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:00:40.777" Score="9" ViewCount="3156" Body="&lt;p&gt;The werewolves of Innistrad (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bReckless%20Waif%5d&quot;&gt;Reckless Waif&lt;/a&gt;) transform from the following abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Human Side]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each upkeep, if no spells were cast last turn, transform [this card].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Werewolf Side]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each upkeep, if a player cast two or more spells last turn, transform [this card].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure how these behave in a multiplayer game involving Limited Range. Suppose I am playing a 4 person, attack left, Limited Range of 1 player, so there is one person in my range on my left, one in my range on my right, and one out of my range. In that game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are my werewolves affected by the out of range player's spells?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are my werewolves affected by other player's spells on the out of range player's turn?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the important two questions, but I think this might be easier to understand/answer with examples, so I'm specifically curious what happens in the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a human side werewolf such as Reckless Waif on the battlefield and no one plays any spells during the out of range player's turn, will the Reckless Waif transform? (On the next upkeep, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a human side werewolf such as Reckless Waif on the battlefield and the out of range player plays one or more spells on their turn, but no one else does, will the Reckless Waif transform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a human side werewolf such as Reckless Waif on the battlefield and the out of range player plays one or more spells during an in range turn, but no one else does, will the Reckless Waif transform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a werewolf side werewolf such as Merciless Predator on the battlefield and the out of range player plays two or more spells on their turn, but no one else does, will the Merciless Predator transform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a werewolf side werewolf such as Merciless Predator on the battlefield and a player in my range plays two or more spells during the out of range player's turn, will the Merciless Predator transform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a werewolf side werewolf such as Merciless Predator on the battlefield and the out of range player plays two or more spells during an in range turn, but no one else does, will the Merciless Predator transform?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other common situations I missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I mistakenly called the range &amp;quot;Spell Range&amp;quot; but I really meant &amp;quot;Limited Range of Influence&amp;quot;, referenced by section 801 in the comp rules. I've read the section, and I THINK I know the result, but I am still very interested in another human's interpretation of the rules, because the result seems somewhat counter-intuitive to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="66" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T17:28:22.907" Title="In MTG, do Werewolves transform due to an out of range turn? Or an out of range player's spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5045" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:04:23.330" Score="8" ViewCount="9743" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Roar%20of%20the%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Roar of the Wurm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20Slide&quot;&gt;Astral Slide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B recycles a card and returns the Wurm token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1799" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:32:07.080" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:59:39.510" Title="What happens when you remove a token creature from the game, and then return it under it's owner's control?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5044" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:16:37.503" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tokens disappear whenever they leave the battlefield. The relevant rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5f&lt;/strong&gt; A token that's phased out, or that's in a zone other than the battlefield, ceases to exist. This is a state-based action; see rule 704. (Note that if a token changes zones, applicable triggered abilities will trigger before the token ceases to exist.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5g&lt;/strong&gt; A token that has left the battlefield can't move to another zone or come back onto the battlefield. If such a token would change zones, it remains in its current zone instead. It ceases to exist the next time state-based actions are checked; see rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Wurm token would be gone for good in this example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T20:16:37.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:33:09.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I can't cite a rule to confirm this, I would treat the out of range player's playing or not playing spells in the same manner I would consider a global enchantment by that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is simply out of range and does not have an effect on your cards in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T20:33:09.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2011-10-13T20:33:58.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand it right, the &quot;spell range&quot; rule merely limits the legal targets for spells and abilities a player casts and uses. However, they are still being cast, so they count for the current turn's spell total. So it does not matter who cast a spell on whom; all that matters is how many spells were cast at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T20:33:58.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5043" CreationDate="2011-10-13T21:06:40.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would seem that the trigger does not even go off unless both the player currently taking their turn and the previous turn were both inside your range of influence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;801.7. A triggered ability doesn‘t trigger unless its trigger event happens entirely within the range of  influence of its source‘s&#xA;  controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turns that the trigger does go off, one expects out of range spells would be completely ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2011-10-13T21:06:40.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1628" CreationDate="2011-10-14T01:03:46.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the family game, it is just a food stockpile, and has no other significance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your question stems from the name of the action. Like all other actions, the name 'Traveling Players' refers to how your family member spends their time. As opposed to fishing, collecting wood or planting a field, your family member works in a band of traveling players. That is, acrobats, actors in a &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt;, jugglers and other various performers. It has nothing to do with the 'players' of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1913" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T01:03:46.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1018" CreationDate="2011-10-14T01:21:21.810" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a mistake to choose one strategy.  The nature of the game - with the random placement of tiles, the assigned numbers, and the locations of ports - requires a player to adapt to the current situation and apply any number of strategies.  Another variable is the order you draw to place your first settlement - if you are first, it might require a completely different strategy than if you are last - depending on the settlement locations that are available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1914" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T01:21:21.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5052" CreationDate="2011-10-14T06:15:35.690" Score="23" ViewCount="3256" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an idle moment I had an idea for a simple war game simulation. (Really simple - honest!) I'd like to prototype it, just to see if the game mechanic I thought of has any merit. I don't want to spend hours, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it would need is a map (think Ticket to Ride), stackable tiles (eg the tiles in Carcassonne) with half a dozen possible values, and some little figurine-y things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest way seems to be to draw the map out on a big sheet of paper, and maybe use Scrabble tiles (each letter representing something...) Wondering what other people do in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1915" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T09:03:31.163" Title="What's the easiest way to prototype a board game design?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5051" CreationDate="2011-10-14T06:46:54.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your instinct is correct. In the first stage you're only interested in seeing if your mechanics are feasible so all you need are some abstract representations of your game components. A game may consist of roads, towns and cities but to test, all you really need are three different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repurpose components from other games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a collection of generic components in various shapes and colors (Maybe even something like Piecepack)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do everything on slips of paper or cardboard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything beyond that would probably be overkill at this time. I've recently read an article about 3 German game designers (1 aspiring, 1 first-timer and 1 &quot;pro&quot;). Among other things the article described the pro's design room, which had a huge selection of meeples, dice, cubes, chits and other generic game pieces in various colors. Such a selection takes time and money to build but is probably the fastest way to test an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T06:46:54.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-14T13:55:07.587" Score="3" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mansion of Madness, my wife was in the laboratory. She then could not complete the puzzle in that room and the lights could not work. Then I had a cultist come in the room with her. Can she try to solve the puzzle for a second time to be able to turn on the lights before having to kill that cultist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T09:56:09.867" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T09:56:09.867" Title="Can I solve a puzzle I originally failed if there is a monster in the same room?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-14T14:03:48.700" Score="3" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I enter a room that is &quot;dark&quot;, can I still move to a closet or continue exploring or do I need to complete a puzzle first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T15:06:53.940" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T15:06:53.940" Title="If the room is dark, can I still move to a closet or explore?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5054" CreationDate="2011-10-14T14:37:04.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Darkness has only 2 effects per the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5054/if-the-room-is-pitch-dark-can-i-still-move-to-a-closet-or-explore&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want to explore, it costs you an action plus a movement step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-2 to all attribute tests during combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T14:37:04.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5053" CreationDate="2011-10-14T14:42:45.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, she does not have to attack the monster and can solve the puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat occurs in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the character spends an action to attack the monster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the monster attack phase of the Keeper's turn the Keeper has the option of attacking with any monster in the same room as an investigator. (And usually will!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T15:06:23.970" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T15:06:23.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5058" CreationDate="2011-10-14T17:25:49.420" Score="6" ViewCount="4535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm constructing a mono-red deck and I was wondering whether there are any options for land search / ramp for this kind of deck? I don't want to combine my deck with green for land searching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about cards like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PYqPN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;druidic satchel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&#xA;As a second thought: I'm looking for more mana in fact not land.&#xA;I'm constructing a Standard (Type II) deck.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T17:44:21.130" LastActivityDate="2018-04-28T10:30:15.127" Title="Is there a conventional way of searching for lands in a mono-red deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5057" CreationDate="2011-10-14T17:38:43.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236907&quot;&gt;Solemn Simulacrum&lt;/a&gt; is good colorless fetch (and draw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237357&quot;&gt;Traveler's Amulet&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=210229&quot;&gt;Horizon Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; can get lands into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214345&quot;&gt;Caged Sun&lt;/a&gt; will get you lots of mana (but no lands) as will &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212238&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194168&quot;&gt;Iron Myr&lt;/a&gt; is a good mana producing creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235603&quot;&gt;Infernal Plunge&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218004&quot;&gt;Geosurge&lt;/a&gt; can also have their uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243493&quot;&gt;Fiery Fall&lt;/a&gt; is the only mono-red card that could be considered land fetch but it's not Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other non-Standard methods for increased mana in red can be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=49440&quot;&gt;Extraplanar Lens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=124220&quot;&gt;Gauntlet of Power&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202629&quot;&gt;Gauntlet of Might&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159264&quot;&gt;Mana Flare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T17:51:15.353" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T17:51:15.353" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5065" CreationDate="2011-10-14T17:53:06.537" Score="4" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play low-key Magic the Gathering tournaments, like release parties and Friday Night Magic. They're good fun but I'm often stuck looking at the clock, trying to avoid a game-3 draw. I know the problem isn't &lt;strong&gt;me&lt;/strong&gt; because my sets against quick-playing opponents are usually over with 20 minutes to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious non-procedural workarounds are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draft fast aggro&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try really hard to win 2-0 so you don't need to play a third game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't exactly have the skills to do this consistently. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At higher rules enforcement levels, you can call a judge if your opponent is taking too long. That option's not readily available at Regular REL, though, and generally you're supposed to be forgiving of a player's inexperience or procedural missteps. Bearing that in mind, &lt;strong&gt;what can I do to encourage other players to play faster without being a jerk&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:29:45.583" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:29:45.583" Title="What can I do to make my opponent play faster at Regular REL?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|mtg-regular-rel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5059" CreationDate="2011-10-14T18:05:40.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being courteous to new and/or inexperienced players is important, especially in more casual settings.  Offer to answer (or find a third party to answer) any questions they may have if that's the holdup.  It is understandable to be indecisive about a crucial play, but it is also their responsibility to be courteous to you and not stall out the game (whether they intend to or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2011-10-14T18:29:45.633" LastActivityDate="2011-10-14T18:29:45.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5071" CreationDate="2011-10-15T01:19:44.027" Score="16" ViewCount="1907" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=thief&quot;&gt;Thief&lt;/a&gt; card rarely seems to be of much use, even when my opponents have bought a lot of treasure. Rather than stealing treasure, it seems much better to buy treasure to directly get to the high powered cards that will win the game. Often this card will actually help my opponent by stripping the copper out of the deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what circumstances is the Thief card worth purchasing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T15:25:21.937" LastActivityDate="2019-01-16T20:52:21.467" Title="When would you buy the Thief in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2011-10-15T08:11:54.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You highlight many of the pros and cons of Thief yourself.  It's true that early on, it's more likely to hurt you through the opportunity cost of having a silver, and may help them by stripping copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what about later in the game?  One common thing for many dominion strategies is to keep decks small, copperless, and gold heavy.  An opponent with a deck like that is the perfect target for thief.  Getting a gold when you're slightly behind on VP can make all the difference, and it can ruin an opponent's engine, perhaps fatally, in situations where it's be difficult to rebuy the gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other thing that should not be missed.  The Thief, like all attacks that force discards, cause the opponent to lose the opportunity to play those two cards in that shuffle.  You can deny someone a card they've really been looking forward to playing that they spent a lot of time buying, at least for a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T08:11:54.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5057" CreationDate="2011-10-15T08:41:54.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mountaincycling&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is the card that sprang to mind when I read your question, and I didn't see it on OrigamiRobot's list so I thought I'd add it.  It doesn't ramp, but it helps get you mountains in the early game when you need them, and can be played as a big red beatstick later on when you have enough lands - quite versatile!  (There are other creatures like Valley Rannet and Igneous Pouncer that cycle for mountains and also other types of land, but if you're mono-R then they're of less interest to you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i4Xci.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chartooth Cougar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T08:41:54.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2011-10-15T08:57:10.630" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on your group's style, a popular strategy may be what is known as &quot;Big Money&quot;, which involves mostly ignoring &quot;cool&quot; cards in favour of mostly buying money and then Provinces wherever possible.  Tragically, this line, which is very dull to play (and to play against!) is quite powerful, at least among groups of players who are still getting good at the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Thief provides a useful safeguard against Big Money strategies becoming too dominant.  If people at your table are doing little but stocking up on Silver and Gold (perhaps trashing their Coppers as they go), then the Thief is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; going to ruin their day.  If you are plagued with these accountant-like money-grubbing players, then consider throwing Thief into the initial card mix and giving them something to think about!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/681/how-can-i-beat-big-money-in-dominion&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for further discussion of Big Money in Dominion and counter-strategies for dealing with it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T08:57:10.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5059" CreationDate="2011-10-15T14:25:56.767" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised that you seem to think there is no possibility of official intervention at Regular REL.  From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Document.aspx?x=Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL&quot;&gt;recently updated official document&lt;/a&gt; on Judging at Regular REL:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;General Unwanted Behaviours -&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There will sometimes be issues that do not have official fixes, but&#xA;  need to be discouraged. These include, but are not limited to;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Players taking unreasonable amounts of time side-boarding or making&#xA;  play decisions  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Inadequate shuffling after a search &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Asking for, or&#xA;  providing, strategy advice during a tournament match or booster draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In all of these cases, educate the player on better behaviour – for&#xA;  example, alternate shuffling techniques or the importance of allowing&#xA;  players to make their own decisions. Players continuing to exhibit&#xA;  specific unwanted behaviour after being instructed otherwise should be&#xA;  issued with a Game Loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Judge should be available to advise persistent time-wasters that, actually, there is a limit to how long they can spend &quot;thinking about their moves&quot; in a game of Magic.  Obviously the Judge will be gentle at first, as this is only Regular REL; but really, no one is being done any favours , if new players are not told early on that they need to play the game at  reasonable pace, that is to say, fast enough that a full three games can be comfortably completed in the time allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't be a jerk about calling a Judge over, but equally, you shouldn't be afraid of doing so. It's not being rude to ask, in a neutral and polite way, for the basic ground rules of tournament Magic to be enforced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T14:25:56.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2011-10-15T14:58:00.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thief is good when the opponents' decks are filled with gold and platinum, and they are trashing their coppers themselves. Treasure Map can make thief a lot more useful, as well as Bureaucrat and Explorer or any other card that adds more treasures to the deck. Stealing your opponent's Potion before they can use it can also be choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an action heavy spread thief isn't very good as you tend to not hit treasure much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T14:58:00.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5068" CreationDate="2011-10-15T16:40:25.247" Score="5" ViewCount="7139" Body="&lt;p&gt;M12 features the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRedirect%5d&quot;&gt;Redirect&lt;/a&gt;, which allows you to choose new targets for a spell. Innistrad introduced the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInto%20the%20Maw%20of%20Hell%5d&quot;&gt;Into the Maw of Hell&lt;/a&gt;, which deals 13 damage to target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I redirect the damage from Into the Maw of Hell to target player with the spell Redirect or must the type of target (in this case creature) stay the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="13806" LastEditDate="2018-09-07T23:45:48.323" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T16:30:05.573" Title="Can I redirect a spell to another type of target in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5067" CreationDate="2011-10-15T17:11:55.560" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't redirect Into The Maw of Hell to a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redirect allows you to choose new legal targets for a spell.  As such, you must choose one valid target land and one valid target creature for Into The Maw of Hell to (newly) target.  If (for instance) there is only one creature in play - yours - you could Redirect Into The Maw of Hell such that it destroyed a different land, but you would still have to keep it targeting your creature, because there are no other available legal choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant section of the Comprehensive Rules (and the most relevant paragraph highlighted by me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.6. Some effects allow a player to change the target(s) of a spell or ability, and other effects allow a player to choose new targets for&#xA;  a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.6a If an effect allows a player to &quot;change the target(s)&quot; of a spell or ability, each target can be changed only to another legal&#xA;  target. If a target can't be changed to another legal target, the&#xA;  original target is unchanged, even if the original target is itself&#xA;  illegal by then. If all the targets aren't changed to other legal&#xA;  targets, none of them are changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.6b If an effect allows a player to &quot;change a target&quot; of a spell or ability, the process described in rule 114.6a is followed, except that&#xA;  only one of those targets may be changed (rather than all of them or&#xA;  none of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.6c If an effect allows a player to &quot;change any targets&quot; of a spell or ability, the process described in rule 114.6a is followed, except&#xA;  that any number of those targets may be changed (rather than all of&#xA;  them or none of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.6d If an effect allows a player to &quot;choose new targets&quot; for a spell or ability, the player may leave any number of the targets&#xA;  unchanged, even if those targets would be illegal. If the player&#xA;  chooses to change some or all of the targets, the new targets must be&#xA;  legal and must not cause any unchanged targets to become illegal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.6e When changing targets or choosing new targets for a spell or ability, only the final set of targets is evaluated to determine&#xA;  whether the change is legal. Example: Arc Trail is a sorcery that&#xA;  reads &quot;Arc Trail deals 2 damage to target creature or player and 1&#xA;  damage to another target creature or player.&quot; The current targets of&#xA;  Arc Trail are Runeclaw Bear and Llanowar Elves, in that order. You&#xA;  cast Redirect, an instant that reads &quot;You may choose new targets for&#xA;  target spell,&quot; targeting Arc Trail. You can change the first target to&#xA;  Llanowar Elves and change the second target to Runeclaw Bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="560" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T03:53:28.763" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T03:53:28.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5088" CreationDate="2011-10-15T17:33:59.760" Score="2" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is about the board game &quot;Strange Synergy&quot; by Steve Jackson Games - it's a rather complex game so if you are not familiar with it, please ask for clarifications before attempting to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many questions that rise as the result of using the power &quot;Invisibility&quot;, and as I don't like the &quot;popular&quot; house rule of &quot;remove from the game any power that raises tough questions&quot;, I would like opinions about how to solve the questions that were raised. The &quot;Invisibility&quot; power has these properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The miniature is removed from the board and instead the player has to privately record the location of the character.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The invisible character &quot;is not an obstacle&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If another warrior guesses where the character is and fires at its location, the character may be hit. The invisible character is also susceptible to any area or &quot;line&quot; effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problems are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a warrior shoots another warrior (not line effect - just standard targeting), and an invisible character is in the line of sight - are they hit? My guess is that not because an invisible character &quot;is not an obstacle&quot; while obstacles prevent warriors from targeting each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a warrior moves through a location where an invisible character is located, do they have to stop, resolve &quot;bumping&quot; or in any other way become aware of the invisible character? My guess would be that the answer is no because an invisible character &quot;is not an obstacle&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a warrior moves and stops on a location where an invisible character is, does any effect happen as a result?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a warrior shoots another warrior that is on the same location as an invisible character (using a power with no area or line of effect, such as the &quot;Pistol&quot;), is the invisible character hit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can an invisible character, in its move, move through a location where another character is standing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can an invisible character, in its move, move to a location where another character is standing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If an invisible character becomes visible in the same location that another character holds, what happens? I would expect at least normal &quot;bumping&quot; to happen but - the character that was invisible can't immediately move off (as &quot;bumping&quot; resolution requires) because it just used its entire turn to become visible. Also the rules for the &quot;Intangible&quot; power which behaves similar to &quot;Invisible&quot; in regard to not being an obstacle, say that if the character becomes tangible in the same location as another character, both characters die immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any opinions, even from people who haven't played Strange Synergy (though do ask for clarifications for things you are not sure about, in that case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1917" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T15:24:51.590" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T15:24:51.590" Title="How to solve problems with the Invisibility power" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5094" CreationDate="2011-10-15T18:45:47.800" Score="10" ViewCount="10005" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, each player starts with 20 life in nearly every MTG game ever played. But why exactly was the number 20 chosen? How would the game be different if we started with more or less life? If my friends and I started playing with a higher or lower starting life total, how would that affect our deck construction decisions? Which colors, types of cards, or general strategies would become more or less powerful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T02:57:33.057" Title="Why is 20 the starting life total for Magic the Gathering? How would the game be different if this number was changed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2011-10-15T19:37:21.340" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thief is a specialty card. It improves &lt;strong&gt;a lot&lt;/strong&gt; with the number of players. That and opponent treasure-density are the big factors in deciding if you want a Thief. Almost never buy a Thief in a 2-player game, but there is potential in a 4-player game. (Though honestly, even then it's still rare to be useful.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 major drawbacks and one minor drawback to thieving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It can help your opponents by trashing copper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The benefit to you is slow: you won't see stolen treasure until after a re-shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cycling your opponents deck speeds up their shuffles, thus how soon they can use just-gained cards.*&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thief is a mid-game card, but due to the copper-trashing it's actually &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; in the early-game. This is unusual, it's about the only card that can do &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; for you while helping your opponents. You must wait until other players have trashed most of their coppers to get a Thief. However, if you wait too long, your odds of hitting a treasure in a greened deck get slimmer (though stealing a Gold late in the game can make it hard for your opponent to get the last Provinces.) Furthermore, late in the game you might not get a chance to see any of the treasure you steal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't want a Thief unless people have high treasure density: both trashed their copper already and started getting bigger Gold/Platinum. I don't really think it's worth it if Silver is the best you'll get. You also don't want a Thief if people are using action cards for money. Markets, Minions, Conspirator chains, etc. -- forget the Thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's obvious synergy with cards that let you control the top of your opponents' decks (e.g. Spy/Scrying Pool). They can make a Thief much more effective. Additional treasures are also cards that could make you want a Thief. It's great to steal a Harem toward the end of the game, and Venture, Bank, etc. are nice additional targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We should compare Thief to Noble Brigand, which has been called in some forums a &quot;fixed version of Thief&quot;. This isn't accurate; both cards were designed before the base set was released, they're similar but different, much like Laboratory and Hunting Party, or the different varieties of Village. Thief can steal/trash Platinum, Harem, Hoard, Fool's Gold, and all the other non-standard treasure, whereas Noble Brigand can only steal Silver/Gold. If someone is trashing coppers and buying Hoards, it might be time for a Thief. Mint/Fool's Gold is an excellent 5/2 opening, but a Thief could put a stopper on that. However, for &lt;em&gt;general use&lt;/em&gt; Noble Brigand is better because it doesn't suffer from Thief's biggest drawback: trashing Coppers; it actually does the opposite, giving coppers if no treasure is revealed, which is nice for slowing engines.  And it gives you $1. And it activates on purchase. (I do wish Thief had some of those buffs. Even with the $1 and the instant activation it would still seem underpowered.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to pick a set of Kingdom Cards to make Thief as good as possible, I would want it to be a long game, so the Thief has time to steal and see the rewards, so it would definitely have Platinum/Colony, and probably a Curser (maybe Sea Hag?) to keep things slow. There has to be a trasher or 2 to get rid of coppers, but nothing too effective--again, keeping things slow. Moneylender would encourage trashing of Copper while allowing players to skip Silver and go straight to Gold. Spy is also a good enabler.  But we also want to be stealing interesting treasures! Thrown in some of the nice Kingdom treasures like Venture, Bank, Harem, and things start to look good. Maybe throw in Silk Road to make the Harems extra tempting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*@Neal pointed out that it goes through opponent's decks, and thus they might miss a card they wanted. Going through someone's deck is usually seen as a con, because for most of the game they're buying cards that make their deck better, so reshuffling sooner gets those new cards in their hand sooner. I would consider this a con for Thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T15:13:54.497" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T15:13:54.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2011-10-15T19:49:31.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not an expert here, but I the obvious change is that it makes it takes more damage to kill a player by damage, making decks that rely on that win condition slower. Then the question is, what sort of decks benefit from this? Clearly not aggro or direct damage, but combo decks would have more time to get their combo out vs one of the more damage-y decks, and control decks would have more time to lock down the board and implement their own win condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, within the categories of combo and control decks, those deck that win by means other than reducing life total (such as milling decks) will have their speed unaffected, whereas decks that rely on dealing 20 damage will now have to deal 40 damage, so they will be slowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @thesunneversets points out, many individual cards will shift in value, e.g. cards that damage you or have you pay life will have a smaller relative effect on you and thus get better. However cards that deal direct damage to an opponent get relatively worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would oppose your own comment and some of the comments in the other answer: do try it out in a two-player duel! Also try starting with less than 20 life. Find out how to adjust your strategy to these situations. Obviously you shouldn't play a standard game (or build a standard deck) in the same way as you would when starting with 40 or 10 life, but learning those differences will help you understand the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T06:29:42.147" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T06:29:42.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2011-10-15T20:25:34.283" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Point of order: all sorts of officially endorsed Magic games begin with different starting life totals than 20.  Excerpting from the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.1. Each player begins the game with a life total of 20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.1a In a Two-Headed Giant game, each team begins the game with a shared life total of 30 instead; see rule 810, &quot;Two-Headed Giant&#xA;  Variant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.1b In a Vanguard game, each player begins the game with a starting life total of 20, as modified by his or her vanguard card's life&#xA;  modifier. See rule 902, &quot;Vanguard.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.1c In a Commander game, each player begins the game with a starting life total of 40 instead; see rule 903, &quot;Commander.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.1d In an Archenemy game, the archenemy begins the game with a starting life total of 40 instead; see rule 904, &quot;Archenemy.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these variants accommodates different number of players, supports different sorts of politics and allegiances, and generally lasts a differing length of time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unwilling to engage in random speculation about what would happen if you tinker with the life totals in a standard 2-player duel: generally speaking this is a bad idea, because the power level of the cards is balanced quite nicely for 20 point life totals.  Lava Axe is a card that is well costed for the fact that it takes away one-quarter of a player's starting life total.  If players started with 100 life each, then Lava Axe becomes a considerably more awful card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conveniently enough, 20-point life totals usually allow for &quot;best of 3 matches&quot; to be comfortably played inside of an hour in tournament conditions.  If you have no time constraints and just want to play Magic all day, there is no reason why you shouldn't bump up the life totals as a house rule.  Just be aware that it will completely change the game balance, rendering some cards much better and some cards much, much worse.  Working out which is which could be a fun intellectual exercise for the jaded Magic player, but personally I like the fact that a lot of very smart people at Wizards have spent 20 years perfecting the game balance for 20-life-point games... why mess with that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T20:25:34.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5057" CreationDate="2011-10-15T22:19:34.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short version: in the current Standard environment, play Sphere of the Suns if you want to play 4-drops early, play Koth of the Hammer if you want to play 6-drops early or get a lot of mana for a big X spell; make sure you don't short yourself on lands; if you want to experiment with a rogue deck, try Geosurge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the modern color pie, red is the color for fast-mana effects (called &quot;rituals&quot; after the old &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=54&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;). Unfortunately, the two ritual effects available in Standard, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geosurge&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235603&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Infernal Plunge&lt;/a&gt;, don't quite hit the same sweet spot as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seething Song&lt;/a&gt; used to. Geosurge is still good enough to drop a big finisher (Inferno Titan, Wurmcoil Engine, maybe Balefire Dragon if you want to get cute) on turn 4, but that requires having both the enabler and the big creature in your starting 10 -- and remember that contemporary mono-red doesn't really have filtering or card draw. Most people probably figure it's safer to just play a strong four-drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know some folks have experimented with B/R &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244678&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heartless Summoning&lt;/a&gt; to play Inferno Titans quickly (turn 3 Titan using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Priest of Urabrask&lt;/a&gt;, or turn 3 Urabrask into turn 4 hasty Titan). Those decks are rather inconsistent and vulnerable to disruption, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly if you need &lt;strong&gt;consistent&lt;/strong&gt; early-turn mana acceleration in a color other than green, I'd just play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213776&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sphere of the Suns&lt;/a&gt;. Like Myr, it's still an easy target for Ancient Grudge, but at least with Sphere half your mana base won't be blown up by a Day of Judgment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236907&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Solemn Simulacrum&lt;/a&gt; is a great card for getting you from 4 mana to 6. As a bonus, you get to draw a card when it dies. That's nearly always a 2-for-1, and often a 3-for-1 if you can trade creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best big-mana card in red is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt;. His -2 ability gives you a lot of mana easily (if you have Koth and 5 lands on turn 5, for instance, you can play Inferno Titan and have mana open to stop Mana Leak, or hit your opponent with a 9-point Devil's Play). Koth's -5 ability is excellent at breaking through board stalls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, with all these tricks, it's important to remember that ramp doesn't replace land drops. Most red decks running Koth as their big threat will want to consistently hit their 4th land drop on turn 4, and that means running 24 lands rather than the 20-22 you can sometimes get away with in aggro decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T13:46:41.253" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T13:46:41.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5061" CreationDate="2011-10-15T22:56:56.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thief is great if your opponent plays a heavy-trashing strategy and then goes for money (Chapel-ing away Coppers is a great way to make yourself vulnerable to Thief).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, though, Thief seems to function best as a deterrent—if Thief is on the board, you might want to rethink your Big Money strategy. But you're right that it's a weak card in many games, and it can actually help your opponents more if you are not smart about playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-10-15T22:56:56.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-16T03:06:23.370" Score="4" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I find the Axe card, can I continue using it to &quot;solve&quot; all locked puzzles I find or is this a one time use then discard card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T03:29:29.110" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T04:29:25.663" Title="Can I use the Axe weapon more than once?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5076" CreationDate="2011-10-16T03:24:32.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use it multiple times to pass any &lt;strong&gt;Lock Puzzle&lt;/strong&gt; as long as you can pass the test of strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Axe cannot be used on Rune or Wiring puzzles.  (We played this wrong for several games before figuring it out!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T03:29:41.637" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T03:29:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-16T03:32:37.547" Score="3" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand I need to pick up a Mythos card during the Keeper's turn, but when do I pick up and use Trauma cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T04:24:35.357" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T04:24:35.357" Title="When can the Keeper use Trauma cards?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-16T04:03:57.813" Score="2" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first few times I played the game I've placed the cards in the rooms in the order that the Seed Cards reference tells me to, but I find that some cards at the bottom of each pile are supposed to be there to &quot;unlock&quot; access to the rest of the stacked cards within that room. Can I change the order each stack is placed on the board so it makes sense or do I need to follow the reference sheet which I find is wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T04:23:49.743" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:18:41.870" Title="Can I change the order of cards stacked in each room?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5079" CreationDate="2011-10-16T04:05:30.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules on Trauma cards are on pg25 of the &lt;strong&gt;Rules of Play&lt;/strong&gt; book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These cards can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; be played by the keeper &lt;em&gt;immediately after an investigator takes damage or horror&lt;/em&gt;.  The only exception to this restriction is if an investigator has zero sanity, in which case the keeper may play one insanity Trauma card on the investigator as a keeper action (once per turn per insane investigator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main way to get Trauma cards is to use Keeper actions, particularly the &lt;strong&gt;Evil Presence&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/strong&gt; actions.  (All 5 stories in the base game have one or the other available to the Keeper)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-16T04:12:40.207" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T04:12:40.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5082" CreationDate="2011-10-16T04:23:23.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you cannot change the order of the Seed cards.  However, do make sure that you are using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=136&amp;amp;esem=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;latest errata&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any specific concerns, please ask.  We can try to address this question without specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-10-16T04:23:23.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5087" CreationDate="2011-10-17T13:02:54.897" Score="10" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;When drawing multiple monsters and placing them is there a choice in which monsters go to the outskirts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we get to pick what monster goes on what gate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-17T13:36:13.810" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T10:22:05.137" Title="How much control does the first player have when placing multiple monsters?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-10-17T13:35:38.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monsters are placed randomly in the outskirts and on the gates.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;em&gt;You cannot choose to place the toughest monsters in the outskirts.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a monster surge, follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine how many monsters will be placed (subject to the monster limits)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the total monsters placed by the number of open gates.  Each gate will get at least this number of monsters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the division is uneven, the first extra monster will be placed at the initial location&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are still extra monsters to be placed, the players decide which gates will get the extras (no gate can receive more monsters than the initial location, if the players cannot agree the first player makes the decision)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now draw the monsters one at a time declaring before you draw them which location the monster will be placed in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is summarized from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, on page 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are more monsters to be placed than allowed by the monster limit (see “Monster Limits and the Outskirts,” page 18), the players should decide where monsters will be placed. &lt;em&gt;The players must make this decision before monsters have been drawn from the cup.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T10:22:05.137" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T10:22:05.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5085" CreationDate="2011-10-17T13:36:17.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for reference...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal gate openings, on Pages 9/10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player draws a monster marker from the cup at random and&#xA;places it on the location. If this would bring the number of monsters&#xA;over the monster limit, the first player places the monster in the&#xA;Outskirts instead (see “Monster Limits and the Outskirts,” page 18)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exception&lt;/strong&gt;: If there are five or more investigators playing, then draw&#xA;and place two monsters instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For monster surges, on Page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player draws monster markers from the cup at random and&#xA;places them on each location with an open gate. When placing monsters,&#xA;they should be divided as evenly as possible among the open gates,&#xA;with no gate having more monsters placed on it than the gate where the&#xA;monster surge occurred this turn. If there are more monsters to be&#xA;placed than allowed by the monster limit (see “Monster Limits and the&#xA;Outskirts,” page 18), the players should decide where monsters will be&#xA;placed. The players must make this decision before monsters have been&#xA;drawn from the cup. If the players cannot agree where the monsters are&#xA;to be placed, the first player decides the placement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right, the rules don't explicitly say anything like draw and place monsters one at a time, though most everyone I've seen discussing this on the Fantasy Flight AH forum and the BoardGameGeek AH forum agree that hand picking which monsters get to go where is against the spirit of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would that mean thematically anyway? That the investigators can somehow allow two Cultists passage into Arkham but force the Gugs into the outskirts? The Mythos Phase is virtually completely free from investigator influence (save for things like the Psychic and Arcane Insight) and allowing the players to choose which specific monsters end up where on the board gives them a large degree of control that it doesn't make sense to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For monster placement, I just draw and place one-by-one, so it's pretty unambiguous which monsters are the ones the go over the limit. For surges I just draw monsters from the cup one-by-one and place them around the board going clockwise-ish starting at the surging gate. Any monsters that would get places but are over the limit go to the outskirts and I don't worry about fine tuning the placement in that instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's absolutely nothing stopping you if you feel like manually choosing the end locations for the drawn monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-10-17T13:36:17.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5069" CreationDate="2011-10-17T13:52:58.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obstacles block line of sight and movement and Invisible characters are not considered obstacles, thus people can attempt to move and shoot through spaces containing invisible characters, as they don't &quot;know&quot; the invisible character is there. But that doesn't mean that characters won't affect the results of that action. I believe the &quot;not an obstacle&quot; is there to resolve any situations like &quot;Well you're aiming at Garbonzo, but Invisible Sinistra is in the way so you can't&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invisibility isn't Intangibility (as you're aware). Characters cannot occupy the same locations normally, and just because one of them is Invisible doesn't change anything. I don't remember if there's anything in the rules that say you can't choose to run into someone (thus forcing a &quot;bump&quot;), but I play like that can happen. So as soon as the Invisible character's square is entered, the &quot;bump&quot; gets resolved as normal, and then the active player's turn continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, as Invisible people are subject to burst attacks and line of effects, I say they suffer the brunt of any targeted effects that were going to pass through the square they occupy to get to the intended target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But honestly, we just take out Invisibility and Intangibility because we feel it unnecessarily prolongs the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the obstacles section there is a clarification for thrown gadgets which says &quot;Nothing may be thrown &lt;em&gt;through&lt;/em&gt; a warrior's square&quot;. While this is in the obstacle section (which an invisible character is not) the phrasing of the paragraph leads me to believe it doesn't matter. Rather than saying &quot;Nothing can be thrown through a square with an obstacle and Nothing can be thrown into a square with a permanent obstacle.&quot; they specified warrior. However, this doesn't cover ranged attacks from non-gadgets that attempt to pass through an invisible character, such as Zorch Ball. I would say that these other attacks don't &quot;need&quot; to travel in a straight line, so the invisible character gets bypassed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ranged attacks are aimed at specific squares rather than warriors. In the ranged strike section, it specifically says that two warriors occupying the same square do not block each other from ranged attacks. So if all involved warriors could be subject to the attack, all of them get attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that permanent obstacles and living warriors are obstacles. Warriors cannot move into or through a space occupied by an obstacle. Invisibility says that this warrior is not an obstacle. Therefore other warriors can move into and through the invisible warriors space. But the other warriors &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; still obstacles, so the invisible warrior cannot move into or through their space, at least not without causing a bump. While this doesn't make much sense, that's how it's written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the problem of reappearing. Since Intangibility specifically mentions the case where an intangible warrior appears in a space that another warrior occupies and Invisibility doesn't, this means either they forgot about this possibility for Invisibility or they didn't intend for it to happen in the first place. First, occupying the same space as another warrior shouldn't prevent an invisible warrior from appearing; there's no basis for that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's a couple ways to resolve this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the same thing that intangbility does and kill both characters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make both characters resolve a bump and make one/both of them resolve random movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't allow this situation to happen in the first place and make bumps occur when any two non-intangible warriors attempt to move into the same space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T17:16:23.463" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T17:16:23.463" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5090" CreationDate="2011-10-18T04:40:37.440" Score="6" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't for the life of me can't remember where these dice came from, but I remember liking the game (it was from my childhood). Does anyone recognize where these came from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ibwXp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="214" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:25:06.743" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T17:25:06.743" Title="What game do these dice belong to?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5089" CreationDate="2011-10-18T12:27:51.960" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are from Cosmic Wimpout, at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cosmicwimpout.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.cosmicwimpout.com/&lt;/a&gt;, and yes, that's a great game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T12:27:51.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5101" CreationDate="2011-10-18T16:10:02.557" Score="8" ViewCount="1971" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some common house rules that you might use for a Killer Bunnies game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the game has so many rules/cards to begin with, the only one that we've come up with is not allowing Super Bunnies to be blanched.  Any others we should adopt to help simplify/speed up the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried halving the cost of carrots, but that made &quot;Take a carrot&quot; cards nearly unnecessary.  We've also tried allowing people to have a free Black Pawn in order to limit the effectiveness of weapons but that kept too many bunnies on the board.  The free Black Pawn helped make the game move faster, but it meant that you nearly never had to play around not having a Bunny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T15:28:26.697" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T21:37:05.833" Title="How can we speed up Killer Bunnies?" Tags="|house-rules|killer-bunnies|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2011-10-18T18:25:42.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My only caution is that the additional expansions begin to greatly increase the amount of time the game takes to play.  I always found part of the enjoyment of Carcassonne was that it was quick and satisfying.  When you add on two or three expansions the game begins to get really long and the interest of the parties can start to fade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T18:25:42.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-18T18:26:40.597" Score="20" ViewCount="4650" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I were playing Carcassonne last night with several of the expansions and we found that the game was taking a ridiculously long time.  We had the base game, the River, Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals, and Traders &amp;amp; Builders all in play at once.  I am hoping to find a way to minimize the tiles in play without sacrificing the variations created by the expansions.  Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:02:44.230" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T20:40:29.623" Title="How can we use multiple Carcassonne expansions without the game taking forever?" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2011-10-18T18:27:01.577" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like shuuja and thesunneversets' answers very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a theory of Magic that says every matchup is two roles: &quot;beatdown&quot; and &quot;control&quot;. The thinking is that, regardless of your actual deck types, one deck's going to have a stronger endgame (putting it in the &quot;control&quot; role), so the other deck has to hurry up and win the game before it's too late (putting it in the &quot;beatdown&quot; role). Raising the life total would naturally make it harder for any deck in the &quot;beatdown&quot; role that wins on damage, however obliquely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any&lt;/em&gt; deck can conceivably end up in the beatdown role, so don't think that this lets slow decks off the hook entirely. The most obvious disadvantage is to fast aggro decks, because they're more or less playing the beatdown role in every match, and their win condition is, almost universally, dealing 20 damage to the opponent (a few are poison-based instead). Modern-day sets are often balanced under the assumption that a Red-Deck-Wins-style deck should be reasonably competitive but not dominating; this means that the deck's creatures should be able to reliably kill a &quot;goldfish&quot; in around 4 turns (at which point an opponent can drop &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt; to reset the field).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability of archetypes like Zoo, Red Deck Wins, and Tempered Steel to deliver fast beatdown sets the pace for the whole environment: other decks play low-cost disruption because not doing so means you get blown out by aggro before you actually get to do your thing. Remove that pressure and you create room for much slower decks. Commander is a great example. With 40 life, you can safely focus on playing high-cost powerful cards and devote your first few turns to hand-sculpting and mana ramp. Mid-priced cards -- strong three-drops and four-drops -- are still very important, but you're likely to see many decks that don't play anything but ramp cards and cheap removal in their low slots. It's possible to build a successful aggro-style Commander deck, but you have to either heavily disrupt the other players' early build-up (so that your dudes have enough time to finish them off while their decks are still in stage 1) or play combo-style elements (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74572&quot;&gt;Heartless Hidetsugu&lt;/a&gt;) to seal the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regular 20-life Magic, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212249&quot;&gt;Skittles&lt;/a&gt; is a control finisher. In 40-life EDH, he's an aggro general. &lt;em&gt;That&lt;/em&gt;'s how much life totals matter!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, imagine a 10-life game. You go first, play a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=170987&quot;&gt;Goblin Guide&lt;/a&gt;, swing for 2. Before I even play my first land I've lost 20% of my life total and I'm facing a four-turn clock. Do you have two Lightning Bolts in your hand? Goblin Grenade and Gut Shot? Fling and Mutagenic Growth? Practically any two or three fast cards will be enough to make me scoop my one land and go home. I have to have some very strong plays on turn 1 (or on your turn 2) in order to even &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt; my own turn 2. What must my deck look like, then, if I'm playing combo and control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in effect, futzing with starting life not only affects the pacing of the game and the relative strength of different decks but also completely changes the window of what's viable in a competitive deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T06:23:15.307" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T06:23:15.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2011-10-18T19:37:34.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably wouldn't use the River in a 2-player game: it acts to rapidly expand the available playing area and gives the players more &quot;elbow room&quot;.  This may not be really what you want with just players, as it just means you may end up doing your separate things at opposite ends of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a big advocate of Traders &amp;amp; Builders and Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals as adding a lot of strategic depth of the game, and I definitely wouldn't recommend removing them from the mix.  You could try trying to add a time limit to your play - obviously you're now playing with over 100 tiles total, so if you're regularly taking over a minute to choose your move then of course you'll be looking at a 2-hour game.  Or else you could agree to stop after half an hour or an hour or whatever: as long as all players got an equal number of turns then there's no real harm in calling time, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T19:37:34.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5098" CreationDate="2011-10-18T20:23:56.387" Score="5" ViewCount="866" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion is designed to take 20-30 minutes, which is one of the reasons I enjoy it so much.  However, I find that the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt; causes the game to take much longer if more than 1 or two are purchased (which they almost always are) simply because it's nothing more than reverse progression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other attack cards have at least some benefit to you, this just seems to be reverse progress, with no upside to the player.  The only exception to this would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=seahag&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sea Hag&lt;/a&gt;, however Sea Hag has a much smaller (and much less aggravating) effect on the flow of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides &quot;it's a good attack&quot;, are there any reasons to actually use Saboteur?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastEditorUserId="560" LastEditDate="2011-10-19T14:36:24.430" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T22:47:34.027" Title="Dominion - Saboteur use" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2011-10-18T22:09:37.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To optimize Saboteur, you need to buy them up as fast as possible, so that one player has more than anyone else, and preferably than everyone else together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everyone grabs a couple, it just slows things down.&#xA;If one guy has most of them, it still slows things down, but also means he is going to be hurting others more than they hurt him. And it's an empty stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T22:09:37.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2011-10-18T23:40:19.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saboteur does not allow the attacker to choose the replacement card.  The victim trashes the first 3 cost card he reveals from his deck, and at his discretion he may replace it with a cheaper card according to the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an attack, it is valuable in that is slows down everyone else, even if it doesn't give the attacker an immediate advantage.  This can be crippling to the victims in the early game, when everyone's still working on building up the value of their hands and only have a few vulnerable cards.  If you're not limited to Intrigue stacks, you can use it with King's Court or Throne Room.  If you have actions to spare, you can also use it with Bridge to target higher value cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're lucky, you might just end up trashing a few Provinces in the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the cost of the card, and the fact that it's a terminal action, choosing it over other actions or attacks would be very dependent on what's on the table and what everyone else is loading into their own decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the best defense is still a good offense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2011-10-18T23:48:29.847" LastActivityDate="2011-10-18T23:48:29.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2011-10-19T04:07:12.863" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way is to simply shuffle up the tiles, then pull about 60-150 of them for use. This will typically mean a 1-3 hour game, depending upon player speed and exact number of tiles. It also limits the needed table space. It does, however, also mean it is possible to not have any tiles turn up from a given expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't use the River nor River II, nor the Count. The River I &amp;amp; 2 simply lengthen setup and increase think-time needed at start.... in addition to taking time to start, and adding 10+ tiles each. The count, by allowing reinforcement as it does, really adds to tactical think-times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If using princess and dragon, you may want to hold out one volcano, and shuffle it into the play stack after generating the ones you're going to play with. This way, you know the dragon WILL show up, but might not be showing up twice. Same for Tower tiles from The Tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T04:07:12.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5070" CreationDate="2011-10-19T04:19:07.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;20 is a convenient number, as it's the largest number on a 20-sided die, and the largest number comfortably placed around a small spinner; spindown dice have been available since the early days, and I've read that they were part of the original idea. Further, 20 is also the low end of the number of stones in a tube of gaming stones (the high end is about 40), and under half the number of mini-poker-chips in a tube of mini-poker-chips (which is typically 50). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having played games with 10 LP, it doesn't cut the typical 45-60 minute time in half; it cuts it by about 10-20 minutes, as it takes a bit of time to get damage causing cards into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not played 30 point, but friends have, and it doesn't really lengthen the game that much, either; they say it adds another 15 minutes or so to the typical 45-60 minute game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T04:19:07.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5091" CreationDate="2011-10-19T06:08:29.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An old group of mine found it very effective to give each player a &quot;holy hand grenade&quot; token at the start of the game.  This can be used to destroy any card, weapon, bunny, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to adjust the number of tokens, if one simply isn't enough.  Just remember, &quot;three shalt be the number thou shalt count!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T06:08:29.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2011-10-19T08:14:27.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is just two of you use a chess clock to force yourselves to play faster.  Play with the rule that if anyone runs out of time then they cannot play any more tiles.  We play with a multiplayer game timer that I wrote for my mobile phone, and we (3/4/5 of us) can get through 3 games with the basic set in an hour.  Before we had the game timer, we could drag out a game to well over an hour, and to be honest it was pretty tedious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1927" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T08:14:27.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2011-10-19T17:21:37.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree strongly with aramis and goldPseudo's answers. Using the data from Isotropic, we can see that in all the games played on the site, people who bought 4 fewer Saboteurs than their opponent increased their win rate by a factor of 1.5. In fact, &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/win_rate_diff_accum.html?cards=saboteur,%20witch,%20torturer,%20sea%20hag,%20familiar,%20minion,%20militia,%20ghost%20ship,%20goons,%20pirate%20ship,%20ambassador,%20bureaucrat,%20cutpurse,%20mountebank,%20%20thief,%20swindler,%20spy,%20scrying%20pool,%20rabble,%20fortune%20teller,%20young%20witch,%20jester&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this graph&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the only worse attack card is Thief, and that even buying a single Saboteur hurts your odds of winning relative to someone who doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my play group, I decided not to buy them at all, and I typically won when they were available. We've since decided that it's not a fun card, so now we don't play with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/11/29/intrigue-saboteur/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy Blog&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;The best counter to Saboteur is probably not getting one.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T22:47:34.027" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T22:47:34.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4335" CreationDate="2011-10-19T20:57:00.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Betting with a drawing hand is a significant and strategic bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also known as &lt;strong&gt;semi-bluffing&lt;/strong&gt;, you both disguise the hand you have, as well as place your opponent(s) into a position of determining if they will continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While holding a 56off, and weak or no action in front of you, a board of Jc 4d 3s offers an ideal semi-bluff opportunity.  A bet or raise here could force any pair less than jacks to fold.  J 10 or worse may pause, and possibly not commit any more money to the pot because of your bet, giving you a chance to draw out on 4th and 5th street if you decide not to commit any more money to the pot.  Your semi-bluff will possibly place him into a calling mode, rather than a betting mode, leaving you in the drivers seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as odds go, you are behind in this J 10o scenario - you'll win only ~ 34% of the time if it comes to a showdown - but, aggressive betting on 4th and 5th street, can get someone to fold, even with the best hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Chad's straight only scenario, with the turn coming, you are a little better than a coin flip to win in a showdown at the river.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1930" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T20:57:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5106" CreationDate="2011-10-19T21:29:48.967" Score="14" ViewCount="7453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can colorless mana be generated from things that say &quot;Add one mana of any color to your mana pool&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example card would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209158&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coalition Relic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example for sunburst spells, when the caster wants less of the sunburst effect, for whatever reason.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to win the game with Scrapyard Salvo this turn, but you're one artifact in your graveyard short - casting a Sunburst creature as a 0/0 could be your only out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T13:52:27.927" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T08:11:20.953" Title="Can colorless mana be generated from things that say &quot;Add one mana of any color to your mana pool&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5105" CreationDate="2011-10-19T21:41:34.350" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;105.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If a player is asked to choose a color, he or she must choose one of the five colors. &quot;Multicolored&quot; is not a color. Neither is &quot;colorless.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T08:11:20.953" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T08:11:20.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5110" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:46:26.160" Score="37" ViewCount="10829" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost every strategy I have ever read on Dominion, although disparate in many ways, unanimously agree that not only is buying copper a bad thing, but that you should do whatever is in your power to utterly destroy any that you already have in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would think that, being both the cheapest and the most plentiful stack in the game, it would be more useful.  Or useful at all, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of a Gardens deck, wherein stuffing your deck with as many cards as it can physically hold is considered advantageous, are there any situations where buying copper is more help than hindrance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T13:07:17.347" Title="When should I buy copper in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2011-10-19T22:56:59.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the furthest thing from a Dominion expert. I have no simulators, no statistical analyses, and no desire to play thousands of games just to answer this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I have played more than a couple of games and I sometimes find it advantageous to buy copper. In situations where there is something consuming copper - like a Mine, or even better - a Moneylender, I frequently find myself taking a copper as the second Buy on a turn when an action has yielded an additional buy. Because I know that later on, I'll be able to use the copper to power a good ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't mean I take the free copper every time, but especially when the Moneylender is in the mix, I try not to run too low on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T22:56:59.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1365" CreationDate="2011-10-19T23:03:19.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you define &amp;quot;starting hand.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 52*51=2652 &lt;strong&gt;permutations&lt;/strong&gt; of any two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are (52*51)/2 &lt;strong&gt;combinations&lt;/strong&gt; of two cards, if you treat (Card A, Card B) as being equal to (Card B, Card A), e.g. ace of spades, king of hearts as being equal to king of hearts, ace of spades). the total is 1326.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 169 &lt;strong&gt;different hands&lt;/strong&gt; consisting of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 pairs (one for each of 13 denominations from A to 2.&#xA;78 combinations of (X, Y) of the same suit. That is (Ace of spades, king of spades) is considered equivalent to (ace of hearts, king of hearts).&#xA;78 combinations of (x,Y) of two different suits. That is (ace of spades, king of hearts) is considered equivalent to (ace of clubs, king of diamonds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13+78+78=169 different two card hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reconciling different hand combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 pairs times 6 combinations= 78 pair combinations.&#xA;78 suited combinations times 4 (suits)= 312 suited combinations.&#xA;78 unsuited combinations times 12 =936 unsuited combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;78+312+936= 1326 hand combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-10-19T23:03:19.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2011-10-19T23:03:43.613" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Never.&lt;/strong&gt; (Note: Many expansions have been released since I first wrote this answer, there are more exceptions than I list here, but the general principles apply.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, almost never. &lt;em&gt;If you have to ask, the answer is &quot;never&quot;.&lt;/em&gt; Don't buy copper &lt;strong&gt;unless you've got a specific strategy that will make it worthwhile&lt;/strong&gt;. Some new players have a strong urge to use all their buys, or at least to buy &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; every turn, but &lt;em&gt;buying nothing is better than buying Copper&lt;/em&gt; almost always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OP mentions the Gardens exception in the question; other cards that can be used effectively with Copper include Goons and Forager. If your target buys aren't too expensive (say $5 or less), then Coppers &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; help you hit $5 consistently; this applies to Duke/Duchy, Gardens, Ill-Gotten Gains, etc. If, however, you are hoping to buy cards costing $6 or more, Coppers hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New players sometimes make the mistake of thinking &lt;em&gt;more money is better&lt;/em&gt;, so they'll buy a Copper with a leftover buy. This is bad. &lt;strong&gt;The money in your typical hand is what matters, not the money in your deck.&lt;/strong&gt; With 5 cards in your hand, adding more Coppers &#xA;&lt;em&gt;reduces&lt;/em&gt; your buying power unless your deck is really bloated (maybe with Curses/Ruins). New players quickly learn to hate a hand full of Coppers when they want to buy a Province or a Gold and stop making this mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you draw a card, are you thinking &lt;em&gt;please, please, let this be a Copper&lt;/em&gt;? If so, then maybe you should buy Copper. If you'd prefer a Copper to what you typically do draw, go ahead and buy Copper. More often, you are disappointed when you draw a Copper - this is your cue to &lt;em&gt;not buy Copper&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Selected Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cards that make Coppers better, but players with &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; experience often overestimate their power. Examples include Moneylender, Coppersmith, Bishop, Mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moneylender&lt;/strong&gt; can be a great card. New players may think it's a great card because of the $3, but the real value of Moneylender is the trashing of Copper. It shines in the absence of more efficient trashers &lt;em&gt;because it cleans your deck of Copper&lt;/em&gt;. Since Moneylender is a terminal action, buying several Moneylenders and then buying Coppers to feed them is not a viable strategy by itself. It requires 2 cards and an action to generate $3; a hand with two Silvers instead of Money Lender + Copper has an extra $1 and an extra action. Even Silver + Money Lender without a Copper can be better than Copper + Money Lender if you've got a different action card worth playing. Spice Merchant and Miser are similar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coppersmith&lt;/strong&gt; - there are decks in which Coppersmith can work &lt;em&gt;very well&lt;/em&gt; (@BlairHippo brings up Apothecary/Coppersmith), but it takes more than just Coppersmith. You need &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt; of card draw to make an engine out of Coppersmith, but card draw helps almost everything so there are usually better strategies on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bishop&lt;/strong&gt; can convert Copper to VP, which is great. But anything costing $2 or more gets you more VP. With extra buys, you'd be better off buying Estates than buying Coppers to feed to a Bishop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mine&lt;/strong&gt; is like Money Lender in that what makes it a good card is that &lt;em&gt;it gets rid of bad treasure&lt;/em&gt;, replacing it with better treasure. If you buy more bad treasure to feed to a Mine, you're missing the point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The themes above are that some cards let you trash Copper for some bonus. The main value in using them is trashing Copper. If you buy more Copper, you are undoing this work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counting House/Travelling Fair&lt;/strong&gt; is an effective strategy that is Copper-centric.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you have a bunch of activated Cities (lots of actions and cards) and a few Goons (lots of buys, rewards for buying), go ahead and buy some Coppers, and throw in some Moneylenders/Coppersmiths/Spice Merchants too! But if you've got a good Goon engine going, you don't need me to tell you that you shouldn't normally buy Copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2019-09-11T13:07:17.347" LastActivityDate="2019-09-11T13:07:17.347" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2011-10-20T12:22:19.697" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rarely. The problem with having Copper in the deck is that it takes up space and only produces $1. In a Province game, you need to generate $8 and you only start each turn with 5 cards, which means that each card needs to result in an average of $1.6 in order to afford Provinces. Figuring out the value of action cards requires a lot of math dealing with what else is in the deck, but Treasures are easy, and Copper is well below the $1.6 average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are exceptions. Gardens is the obvious one, although most Garden strategies will only buy Copper if they can't afford a $2 card, since the Gardens slows you down in drawing to the cards that give you extra gains/buys (like Workshop or Ironworks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goons is an exception. When you have multiple Goons in play, buying a Copper is worth at least 2VP. Compare that with Harem, which is worth $2 and 2VP, and costs $6 to purchase. 2 VP + $1 is a steal. Buying Copper when you only have 1 Goons in play is more situational. If you have a Watchtower in hand so you can trash the Copper, you definitely want to because it's a free VP; if you aren't going to finish cycling through your deck, you definitely buy Copper; if it's early in the game, you probably don't because buying Copper decreases the chance of being able to put together a multi-Goons turn, which is where the real VP explosion happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other exceptions: Apothecary decks will usually want to buy a couple of Coppers throughout the game. Horse Traders + Duke decks only need to produce $5 consistently, which can be done with HT + 2 Coppers + whatever else, so Coppers can help that deck (although no one is certain of when the optimal time is to start purchasing Coppers). If you have a Trader in your hand (from the new Hinterlands expansion), you might choose to buy a Copper so you can trade it into a Silver, although you might not if you are trying to build a crazy engine and need your engine cards to be drawn together. Coppersmith obviously benefits from Copper, but that's a really tough engine to put together for lots of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T19:23:37.293" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T19:23:37.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32061" CreationDate="2011-10-20T12:59:35.423" Score="2" ViewCount="3017" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of other questions have been asked regarding cards that &quot;Add one mana of any color to your mana pool&quot;, but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4341/can-i-use-a-card-with-add-one-mana-of-any-color-to-your-mana-pool-in-any-elder&quot;&gt;One is for EDH decks in general&lt;/a&gt; (which, in most cases, have at least one color)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5105/can-colorless-mana-be-generated-from-things-that-say-add-one-mana-of-any-color&quot;&gt;The other is for colorless mana in general&lt;/a&gt; (which would likely also be used in a colored deck, or a non-EDH deck where extra colors don't matter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to answer now is if those sorts of cards can be used in a colorless EDH deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, if I have one of the big Eldrazi as my commander, I know I can have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209158&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coalition Relic&lt;/a&gt; in the deck because it has a colorless color identity. But, once it's on the field, can I use it to generate usable mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:24:32.507" Title="Can lands that say “Add one mana of any color to your mana pool” be used in a colorless EDH deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2017-10-11T21:41:19.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5112" CreationDate="2011-10-20T13:12:07.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  This is mentioned in the first question you linked to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.9. If mana would be added to a player’s mana pool of a color that isn’t in the color identity of that player’s commander, that amount of colorless mana is added to that player’s mana pool instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T18:21:01.653" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:21:01.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5116" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:25:24.247" Score="12" ViewCount="5486" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Commander, there is a rule that states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;During the game, if mana would be added to your mana pool that isn't a color in your commander's color identity, that much colorless mana is added to your mana pool instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, is it impossible for me to pay mana costs that are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in my commander's color identity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if my commander has a Red/Blue color identity, and I take control of an opponent's creature that has an activated ability with a Black mana-cost, is it impossible for me to pay the cost needed to activate that ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:25:14.047" Title="Is it impossible to pay off-color mana costs in EDH?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2011-10-20T14:32:02.400" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is unfortunately impossible to add mana of a color outside your deck's color identity to your mana pool.  Tradtionally this will be mean you cannot pay the cost of this - however, as @AlexP and @Stephen highlight, replacement effects may mean you can activate the ability without adding that color mana to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.9. If mana would be added to a player's mana pool of a color that isn't in the color identity of that player's commander, that amount of colorless mana is added to that player's mana pool instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, you can in no way get mana into your mana pool that is not in your general's color identity (which would be required to activate that ability, by using up that mana in your mana pool).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a way to reduce, alter, or otherwise pay this cost (without adding off-identity mana to your mana pool), it may still be possible to activate the ability - for details, see the answers provided by @AlexP and @Stephen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2011-10-20T20:59:19.027" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T20:59:19.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2011-10-20T15:00:57.103" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commander used to have special rules about color identity and mana generation. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=18057&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;As of January 18, 2016&lt;/a&gt;, these rules have been removed. Tapping lands for mana works just like regular Magic.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the restriction on mana production and color identity in deckbuilding still applies. So your red/blue deck still can't include a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crumbling%20Necropolis&quot;&gt;Crumbling Necropolis&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, however, use all these exceptions to pay off-color costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mana generators without mana symbols&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the deckbuilding restriction only applies to mana symbols, not &amp;quot;any method of generating other colors of mana.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common example is that cards that say &amp;quot;any color&amp;quot; aren't considered to have mana symbols in the card text. They may safely be included in non-five-color decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Borrowing your opponents' stuff&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you're playing Ashling (red), and I'm playing Sen Triplets (white/blue/black). If I steal one of your Mountains (e.g. by playing it from your hand with my commander's special ability), I can tap it for red mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Changing mana's function without changing its literal color&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50527&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt; allow you to spend mana &amp;quot;as if it were any color of mana&amp;quot; without actually changing the colors of that mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a really technical caveat to that, though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that, even with Mycosynth Lattice in play, there are still corner cases where mana colors matter: for instance, Mycosynth Lattice will allow me to spend 5 blue to cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=158751&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Torrent of Souls&lt;/a&gt;, but the spell still checks the color of mana spent on it (which, in this case, causes it to have no effect). This is based on the rulings text of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=106639&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Celestial Dawn&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may use a different color mana than the color required for spells&#xA;and abilities that require a specific color. If you do, and the spell&#xA;or ability checks the actual color of the mana, it can tell the&#xA;difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Alternatives to mana&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some rules allow you to &amp;quot;pay for&amp;quot; mana costs without using mana at all. You can use it to pay off-color costs. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Convoke cards, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chord%20of%20Calling&quot;&gt;Chord of Calling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Phyrexian mana, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Metamorph&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Metamorph&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that color identity still applies: you can't put Chord of Calling in your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sen%20Triplets&quot;&gt;Sen Triplets&lt;/a&gt; deck. But, if you've got some green creatures, you can cast someone else's.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T23:25:14.047" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:25:14.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7122" CreationDate="2011-10-20T18:20:04.553" Score="3" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following list&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-man Tactical Squad (flamer + rocket launcher) + Rhino&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-man Tactical Squad (flamer + rocket launcher) + Rhino&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-man Tactical Squad (flamer + rocket launcher)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-man Assault Squad (Sergent has combat shield + fist)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-man Scout Squad (Sergent has power weapon) =&gt; Outflank with lots of combat blade + shotguns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-man shooting Terminator Squad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dreadnought Multi-melta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dreadnought Plasma Cannon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What HQ should I take to compliment my army list?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I am fielding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Librarian in Terminator armor (no other wargear).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total is exactly 1500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning to fight against Chaos, Necron, lots of infantry Imperial Guard, lots of Las-cannon Blood Angel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T00:28:22.293" Title="What HQ to take for my 1500pts codex Space Marine army list" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2011-10-20T20:12:35.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may use Mycosynth Lattice, as Alex P stated, to pay the activation cost even though the mana colour is not in your colour profile.  Here is why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume I have a Mycosynth Lattice in play and in some manner I gain control of a creature that has an ability not in my commander's colour profile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using conventional means I cannot pay this cost since I cannot generate any coloured mana in my mana pool that isn't a colour in my commander's colour profile by 903.9. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lattice doesn't say add any colour to my mana pool, it reads as a replacement effect and says that I can &lt;strong&gt;spend&lt;/strong&gt; mana &lt;strong&gt;as though&lt;/strong&gt; it were of any colour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This to means that if I had a red mana in my colour profile but not black, I could tap a mountain to pay B on a creature's activated ability since I am adding R to my mana pool but spending it &lt;strong&gt;as though&lt;/strong&gt; it were B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This argument satisfies 903.9's requirements but still allows the ability to be paid, confirmed by a &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/28597461/Mycosynth_Lattice,_Commander_Rule_903.9_and_a_Controlled_Creatures_ability_cost_not_in_my_profile.?sdb=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Level 1 DCI Judge at this link&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T20:12:35.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5121" CreationDate="2011-10-20T20:13:53.213" Score="52" ViewCount="239627" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few Magic: The Gathering cards whose editions I'm having trouble identifying. They are obviously from either Alpha or Beta, since they have black borders and the same design as the Unlimited edition, but how can I distinguish between both editions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1932" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditorDisplayName="user21" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T17:41:36.600" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T21:29:10.770" Title="How can I tell the difference between early Magic: The Gathering card editions?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5120" CreationDate="2011-10-20T20:16:39.567" Score="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;ALPHA cards are black bordered and have very very rounded edges (2mm radius) compared to all other kinds of magic cards (1mm radius). Just pick up a black bordered card and overlay them on top of each other. If the corners are VERY different then you have ALPHA, otherwise you have BETA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several cards that were corrected between alpha and beta and can be used to instantly identify extremely worn cards. As &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_%28Magic:_The_Gathering%29#Errors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cited on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Circle of Protection: Black was accidentally omitted from Alpha.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclopean Tomb had no casting cost, instead of a casting cost of 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Death Ward incorrectly credited Dan Frazier as the artist rather than Mark Poole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elvish Archers had its power/toughness listed as 1/2 rather than 2/1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force of Nature was printed with the letter G in its text box rather than the green mana symbol, and the artist's name was spelled incorrectly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orcish Artillery had a casting cost of 1R rather than 1RR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orcish Oriflamme had a casting cost of 1R rather than 3R.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phantasmal Forces was printed with the letter U in its text box rather than the blue mana symbol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red Elemental Blast was printed as an instant rather than an interrupt, making half of its ability unplayable under the rules of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sedge Troll incorrectly credited Jeff A. Menges as the artist rather than Dan Frazier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Volcanic Island was accidentally omitted from Alpha.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One set that recently came to my attention that is not identified on the identification chart for English cards (see below) is called &amp;quot;Alternate 4th Edition&amp;quot;.&#xA;More info about those cards can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magiclibrarities.net/721-rarities-alternate-fourth-edition-cards-english-cards-index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Magic Librarities&lt;/a&gt;, here are the main points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This set is only available in starter decks. Their ISBN is 1-880992-26-4 instead of 1-880992-25-6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The back of the Alternate Fourth Edition cards feel glossy, very much different from normal Magic Cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternate Fourth Edition cards do &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magiclibrarities.net/721-rarities-alternate-fourth-edition-cards-english-cards-images-light.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;not glow under ultraviolet light&lt;/a&gt;, while normal cards do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alternate Fourth Edition cards have a darker blue colour at the top of the letter A from the word MAGIC while normal cards have a light blue colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The printing pattern is very different. Regular cards have a hexagon pattern, while Alternate 4th Edition cards have an indiscernible pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dqc2B.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Magic Set Identifier flowchart&lt;/a&gt; will help you determine the set of English cards up to about 2001, beyond there it's fairly easy to identify from the set symbol on the card. Thanks to Hackworth for providing an up to date url for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZQcr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;updated version&lt;/a&gt; of that flowchart that includes foreign language cards as well. While identifying English cards is relatively easy, there are some difficulties with other languages, especially with German Revised White Border Cards (aka &amp;quot;Unlimitierte Edition&amp;quot; (unlimited edition) - not to be confused with the Unlimited set!). Some of them are almost undistinguishable from Fourth Edition cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://greendisenchantproject.jimdo.com/fwb-4th/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Green Disenchant Project&lt;/a&gt; has some more in-depth information and scans that may help identify such cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rZQcr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Magic Set Identifier flowchart&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="27378" LastEditDate="2023-07-20T21:29:10.770" LastActivityDate="2023-07-20T21:29:10.770" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5146" CreationDate="2011-10-20T21:20:22.850" Score="11" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, when someone plays a Torturer, I almost invariably choose to discard rather than take a curse. The exceptions are if I have a trasher (Chapel, Steward, Upgrade, etc.) that I have the actions to use anyway, or if I think there's a good chance a Masquerade will be played and I don't want to give away any cards. In the case of multiple Torturers (whether action-chaining or 3-4 players), unless it's happening &lt;em&gt;every time&lt;/em&gt; I'll prefer to discard 4 cards and essentially lose a turn than add 2 curses to my deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the most common reason people take curses instead is they think their cards are too good to discard, but unless I am guaranteed a good turn (e.g. Village and 2 Torturers in hand, not relying on lucky draw), I'll choose to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the value trade-off of discarding vs. taking a curse? How good of a hand do you need to take a curse? How do you evaluate the damage a curse does to your deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, all Dominion games are subjective to the Kingdom Set. In a set with lots of ways to trash things, taking curses isn't so bad. I'm more interested in answers where trashing is harder, say a Remodel or Expand are the only options, or where +actions are hard to come by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T05:12:25.240" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T16:09:01.470" Title="When should I take a curse in response to Torturer?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5122" CreationDate="2011-10-20T21:45:41.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually discard as well, unless I'm already below 5 cards.  Usually my decision hinges on if I'll still be able to do something with that turn.  Of course if i'm holding 2 Victory cards, I'll just drop them.  However, if I have a verifiable action chain in my hand, I'll take a curse, or if I have a card that allows me to discard (not trash) for an effect, I'll likely take a curse to boost it's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you said though, it's very subjective, so it all depends on your hand, the kingdom cards that are available, and how built up/stagnated your deck is.  If you have had a run of horrible hands and just need to buy something because you've already wasted a turn or two, it might be worth grabbing the curse(s) in order to buy something you really need. Or perhaps you've got a good advantage with a streamlined deck, and adding curses to it would hurt your action chains, in that case maybe skipping a turn wouldn't be so bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples (if opponent Throne Room's a Torturer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand - Victory, Village, Great Hall, Copper, Silver&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decision - Discard 4 cards, keep the Silver, and buy a 2 cost with it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand - Victory (non-Estate), Secret Chamber, Copper, Copper, Baron&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decision - Here I'd probably take the curses, and use them with Secret Chamber to buy a 6-cost (Gold comes to mind)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand - Victory, Victory, Pawn, Village, Smithy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decision - Even though I have no money in hand, the draw/action chain available to me is pretty good, so most likely I'd discard the two Victories for the first, and take a Curse with the second and hope for the best with my Action cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T21:45:41.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5122" CreationDate="2011-10-20T22:03:20.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally only take the discard-2 if it can be done without harming my hand (I had an extra Copper, or 2 Estates anyway, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My view on Torturer is that it's really just a Witch.  They played a Witch, except that I got a special freebie opportunity to avoid the curse if my hand sucked already!  So I do the kinds of things in deckbuilding that I'd do to counter a Witch, and I don't stress out about the Curses.  And I certainly don't knock a hand of $5 or $6 down to $3 or $4 just to avoid a Curse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expecting to end up with some Curses and planning to account for that is, in my opinion, better than sabotaging your own buying power over and over in a desperate attempt to avoid the Curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2011-10-20T22:03:20.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5127" CreationDate="2011-10-21T12:59:17.953" Score="13" ViewCount="2646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say I am attacking with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222196&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inquisitor's Flail&lt;/a&gt; equipped.  My opponent uses a Runeclaw Bear of his own to block.  I then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233256&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kessig Wolf Run&lt;/a&gt; to give my creature +3/+0 and trample.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much damage can I deal my opponent in this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nsBzD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/a57rk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwNAe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T13:05:45.243" Title="How does Inquisitor's Flail interact with Trample?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5126" CreationDate="2011-10-21T13:05:45.243" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inquisitor's Flail doesn't let you assign damage any differently, it is merely a replacement effect for how damage is dealt.  So essentially, you have a 5/2 trampling Runeclaw Bear up against a regular 2/2 Runeclaw Bear.  You must assign lethal damage to the blocking Runeclaw before you can assign any damage to the defending player, so you can only assign a maximum of 3 to the defending player.  When damage is dealt, Inquisitor's Flail doubles everything, resulting in 4 being dealt to each Runeclaw Bear, and 6 being dealt to the defending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T13:05:45.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5130" CreationDate="2011-10-21T13:53:24.507" Score="7" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner opened one diamond. I responded 1 NT with the following hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠Txxx ♥Axx ♦Txxx ♣Ax&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner then rebid two spades. I raised to four spades, reading my partner for 17 points or so. We went down two because he only had 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said, &quot;I read you for 17 points because you &quot;reversed&quot; (bid a higher-ranking suit at a higher level with the second bid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner answered, &quot;I was just bidding my 5-4 pattern. It said nothing about extra strength.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did partner, in fact, &quot;reverse&quot;? Does it require about 17 points to do so? And if so, did it make sense for me to raise to four spades (I counted &quot;eight&quot; HCP, plus something extra for the club doubleton, and the two tens, located strategically in his suits). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-08T12:37:20.307" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T12:37:20.307" Title="What Is a &quot;Reverse&quot; In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2011-10-21T14:06:13.170" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your understanding of the situation.  By forcing you to go to the 3-level if you decide you prefer his first suit (diamonds)... well, that's a textbook reverse.  I would suggest that &quot;about 17&quot; points is a fair reading of such a bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your partner only had 13 points, and your bid should clearly have allowed him to infer that between you you only barely have the balance of the points, it's difficult to see what he hoped to achieve by going to 2S.  You are extremely unlikely to have 5 or more spades after your NT bid, so at &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; you're finding a marginal 4-4 spade fit, at worst no fit at all.  And that's if you stop bidding there, which of course you are unlikely to, because your partner has just falsely suggested that he has some basis on which to keep the bidding going... 4S sounds about right for an 8 card fit and roughly 24-25 points between you, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've said it before and I'll probably say it again - send your partner back to basic Bridge school!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T14:06:13.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4341" CreationDate="2011-10-21T14:55:19.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your question asks about &quot;any&quot; EDH deck, it's worth adding an answer about the case of a colourless identity general (since other questions have expressed uncertainty about the applicability of Charles' answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly a Mox Opal would be a legitimate card for all the reasons already stated.  Other cards with similar wording/attributes follow logically.  &lt;strike&gt;When it  generates a coloured mana then, as in the coloured general case, the only relevant rule is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.9.&lt;/strong&gt; If mana would be added to a player’s mana pool of a color that isn’t in the color identity of that player’s commander, that amount of colorless mana is added to that player’s mana pool instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By 903.9 the coloured mana becomes colourless (the only available option with your general).&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;em&gt;No longer true as of January 18, 2016 rules update. All players can have any color of mana in their pool, regardless of their commander's identity.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T14:10:45.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T14:10:45.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2011-10-21T18:33:47.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our group, the person who just taught the game goes first. There are a couple of reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) New players get to see someone else's turn before they have to take their own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The teacher get a reward for the work of teaching&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Most of our games have a counter balance of some sort, so first player is not a huge advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1936" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T18:33:47.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5135" CreationDate="2011-10-21T21:46:44.107" Score="2" ViewCount="4605" Body="&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the player who controlled &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/som/en/223.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt; doesn't get the tokens because &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=207883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat's&lt;/a&gt; exile resolves first and the creature doesn't land in the graveyard. Am I correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T13:55:28.843" Title="What happens if a player exiles Wurmcoil Engine when it dies with Mimic Vat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5133" CreationDate="2011-10-21T22:16:08.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If and when a Wurmcoil Engine dies and goes to the graveyard, its ability will trigger and go on the stack. If it was a non-token creature at the time it died, Mimics Vat will also trigger at the same time and go on the stack. The active player decides the order in which they are put on the stack, but either way, both effects will resolve unless countered. Meaning: for a non-token Wurmcoil Engine, 2 tokens will be created and it can be exiled with the Vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Wurmcoil Engine (or a token copy thereof) that gets exiled neither gives tokens nor triggers the Vat. However, if you have a way to destroy or sacc a Wurmcoil Engine token before it is exiled, the token Engine will also create its 2 smaller tokens, though still not trigger the Vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-10-21T22:21:12.947" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T22:21:12.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5133" CreationDate="2011-10-21T23:29:52.560" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your interpretation is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each card has a triggered ability. The current oracle rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Wurmcoil Engine dies, put a 3/3 colorless Wurm artifact creature token with deathtouch and a 3/3 colorless Wurm artifact creature token with lifelink onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imprint — Whenever a nontoken creature dies, you may exile that card. If you do, return each other card exiled with Mimic Vat to its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{3},{T} : Put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of the exiled card. It gains haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both triggered abilities go on the stack when the non-token Wurmcoil Engine dies. What is confusing you is that &lt;strong&gt;they do not immediately resolve.&lt;/strong&gt; (See section &lt;strong&gt;603&lt;/strong&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110930.txt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;.) Technically, whoever has priority puts their triggered ability on the stack first, but in this case, it doesn't matter much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the controller of the Wurmcoil Engine gets the two artifact tokens and the controller of the Mimic Vat may have the Wurmcoil Engine imprinted on their Mimic Vat. If they choose to do so, the Wurmcoil Engine card is exiled and any other imprinted card is returned to the owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-10-21T23:29:52.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5122" CreationDate="2011-10-22T01:31:37.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When to take a curse:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When there are no curses left in the curse pile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a way to get curses out of your deck (even if it's just Island) and you don't have excess cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have an Ambassador or or Masquerade in your hand and plan on playing it next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When to Discard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have 2 &quot;deadweight&quot; cards in your hand, whether those are extra Terminal Actions you know you won't be able to play, curses or victory cards doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Discarding would make it so you can't buy the thing you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it's a trade off... which slows you down more, 1 turn of reduced circumstances, or an extra curse for the rest of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T01:31:37.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4517" CreationDate="2011-10-22T05:15:25.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Law 66A of the ACBL says that you can only REQUIRE another player to show you his card if you haven't turned your card face down on the table.  However, at a lower level club game I don't see any problem asking to see the other player's cards if you've put your card face down on the table but you could receive a perfectly correct &quot;No!&quot; answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1940" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-22T05:35:07.517" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T05:35:07.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2011-10-22T18:33:24.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play both weak and strong NT.  The American Strong NT evolved from Culbertson who initially played a weaker version and the average players were being set a lot, even doubled.  thus, the strength was increased to 16-18 for the masses.  Culbertson's initial 1NT was a balanced hand containing 2 1/2 honor tricks when not vulnerable and 3 honor tricks when vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1941" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T18:33:24.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5141" CreationDate="2011-10-22T19:51:04.163" Score="25" ViewCount="4291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player is using Babylon (side B) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2nd wonder has been completed (allows playing last card of each age instead of discarding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player has a Mine in play (can produce either Stone or Ore)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player has no other way to produce Stone or Ore and no money to purchase from a neighbor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is the 6th turn of Age I&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player has a Barracks and a Baths in hand (resource cost of one Ore and one Stone, respectively)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the player play both Barracks and Baths?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2nd wonder allows the player to play both the Barracks and Baths (assuming he can pay the costs), instead of having to discard one. The Mine can produce both resources, but the rules regarding cards that can produce more than one type of resource state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the player can use one OR the other resource to build a structure (or a wonder phase) but NOT both in a given turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both cards would be played in the 6th turn, so it would seem that the player cannot use the Mine to pay the cost of each card. However, is the limitation on using resource cards only once per turn really meant to be once per construction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question really applies to any resource producing card, not just the multi-resource producing cards. It was just simpler to explain this way, and the issue is more fuzzy due to the specific prohibition on multi-resouce producing cards being used more than once in a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-11-03T01:00:09.390" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T00:59:10.400" Title="Can a resource card be used more than once in a turn when allowed to build more than one structure?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5140" CreationDate="2011-10-22T21:26:13.867" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus opinion, based on asking the games' creators how situations such as these were intended to be resolved (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5956703#5956703&quot;&gt;this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt;), is that you should treat Babylon's &quot;play last card of each age&quot; power as, in effect, a 7th and separate turn.  If you do, then naturally you would be able to use your resources once per build, not have to divide them between the last two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is definitely the way to go, just for pragmatic reasons: Babylon's power seems pretty poor if you have to pay for your last two cards in an Age with one set of resources.  It's hard enough to buy one card with the resources available in the final stages of the game - buying two at once would be an almost impossible feat!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-22T21:26:13.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5145" CreationDate="2011-10-23T16:42:09.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221186&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trepanation Blades&lt;/a&gt;, and I was wondering if the effect would stack if I have multiple equipped to one creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T23:15:32.840" Title="Would multiple Trepanation Blades Stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-10-23T16:58:26.727" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. When the equipped creature attacks, both triggers go on the stack at the same time (in an order of your choice), then are resolved one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, I attack with an Invisible Stalker wielding two Trepanation Blades. Both triggers go on the stack. We resolve the first: spell, spell, land; the Stalker gets +3/+0 until end of turn. We resolve the second: spell, land; the Stalker gets +2/+0 until end of turn. Now my Stalker is a 6/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-10-23T17:04:34.707" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T17:04:34.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5122" CreationDate="2011-10-23T17:29:28.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Short answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should take a curse when discarding two cards would hurt your strategic plan, but you should also take into account your curse total compared to the other players and how it's likely to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I 'm not going to dwell on &quot;obvious&quot; circumstances like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no curses left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hand is all victory cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances you should make the decision based on strategic (long-term) factors. If discarding would mean not being able to buy a card you need in the long term (this usually means 5+ cost cards, and of course not all of them) then you should consider taking the hit so that you can advance your plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you were going to buy anyway is a &quot;nice to have&quot; card, then taking a curse is probably not warranted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In a 3- or 4- player game&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you should gravitate a little more towards discarding in the beginning of the game, as taking curses too early (before you have the chance to load up on necessities) might leave you too far behind the other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you should consider the possibility of multiple Torturers being played before your next turn; in this case, taking one curse and then playing a good turn might be warranted because with multiple players playing Torturers you can never be sure just when you 'll get the opportunity to play your turn unhindered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="611" LastActivityDate="2011-10-23T17:29:28.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5148" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:42:38.563" Score="2" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179432&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tortoise Formation&lt;/a&gt; to temporarily disable the effect of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=45478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ensnaring Bridge&lt;/a&gt;.  My question therefore is: does that combo allow my creatures to attack, even if there are no cards in my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-10-23T23:48:43.703" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T05:39:17.890" Title="Do Ensnaring Bridge and Tortoise Formation work together?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5147" CreationDate="2011-10-23T21:59:36.320" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Tortoise Formation has no interaction with Ensnaring Bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shroud only prevents a creature from being the &lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt; of a spell or ability. &lt;strong&gt;That is the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; thing shroud does.&lt;/strong&gt; Only spells or abilities that specifically use the word &quot;target&quot; have targets (with a few pseudo-exceptions, chiefly Auras and Equip abilities, for which the word &quot;target&quot; occurs in the official rules but is not usually printed on the card). If a spell or ability does not use the word &quot;target&quot;, then shroud has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ensnaring Bridge's ability does not use the word &quot;target&quot;, so playing Tortoise Formation will not allow your creatures to get around the Bridge's restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T05:39:17.890" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T05:39:17.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5153" CreationDate="2011-10-24T07:47:40.693" Score="-2" ViewCount="1630" Body="&lt;p&gt;This weekend I participated in a very casual Innistrad Sealed Deck event with four of my friends.  Opening my packs I discovered the following pool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;White&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Selfless Cathar&#xA;Avacynian Priest &#xA;Elder Cathar &#xA;Village Bell-Ringer &#xA;Chapel Geist &#xA;Fiend Hunter &#xA;Abbey Griffin &#xA;Thraben Militia &#xA;Gallows Warden &#xA;Moment of Heroism &#xA;Paraselene &#xA;Rally the Peasants &#xA;2x Rebuke&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stitcher's Apprentice&#xA;Fortress Crab&#xA;Battleground Geist&#xA;Dream Twist&#xA;Memory's Journey&#xA;Think Twice&#xA;Curse of the Bloody Tome&#xA;Forbidden Alchemy&#xA;Claustrophobia&#xA;Lost in the Mist&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2x Typhoid Rats&#xA;Screeching Bat&#xA;Village Cannibals&#xA;Abattoir Ghoul&#xA;Bloodline Keeper&#xA;Stromkirk Patrol&#xA;Ghoulcaller's Chant&#xA;2x Gruesome Deformity&#xA;Altar's Reap&#xA;Skeletal Grimace&#xA;2x Night Terrors&#xA;Sever the Bloodline&#xA;Maw of the Mire&#xA;Curse of Death's Hold &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2x Night Revelers &#xA;Village Ironsmith&#xA;Feral Ridgewolf&#xA;Rakish Heir&#xA;Pitchburn Devils&#xA;Scourge of Geier Reach&#xA;Rage Thrower&#xA;2x Harvest Pyre&#xA;2x Nightbird's Clutches&#xA;Curse of the Pierced Heart&#xA;Burning Vengeance&#xA;Traitorous Blood&#xA;Blasphemous Act&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ambush Viper&#xA;Boneyard Wurm&#xA;Villagers of Estwald&#xA;2x Orchard Priest&#xA;Woodland Sleuth&#xA;2x Festerhide Boar&#xA;Grizzled Outcasts&#xA;Somberwald Spider&#xA;Wreath of Geists&#xA;Moonmist&#xA;Travel Preparations&#xA;2x Spidery Grasp&#xA;Bramblecrush&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Artifact&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Evil Twin&#xA;One-Eyed Scarecrow&#xA;Creepy Doll&#xA;Ghoulcaller's Bell&#xA;2x Silver-Inlaid Dagger&#xA;Wooden Stake&#xA;Cellar Door&#xA;Grimoire of the Dead&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lands&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Ghost Quarter&#xA;Isolated Chapel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what I built:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Creatures&#xA;------&#xA;1x Avacynian Priest&#xA;1x Selfless Cathar&#xA;1x Elder Cathar&#xA;1x Village Bell-Ringer&#xA;1x Chapel Geist&#xA;1x Fiend Hunter&#xA;1x Gallow's Warden&#xA;1x Thraben Militia&#xA;1x Abbey Griffen&#xA;2x Typhoid Rats&#xA;1x Screeching Bat&#xA;1x Village Cannibals&#xA;1x Abattoir Ghoul&#xA;1x Bloodline Keeper&#xA;1x Stromkirk Patrol&#xA;&#xA;Artifacts&#xA;2x Silver-Inlaid Dagger&#xA;2x Rebuke&#xA;1x Sever the Bloodline&#xA;1x Grimoire of the Dead&#xA;1x Curse of Death's Hold&#xA;&#xA;Lands&#xA;8x Plains&#xA;8x Swamp&#xA;1x Isolated Chapel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My deck performed fine, going 3-1 against my friends, losing 1-2 against an aggressive Werewolf deck when I experienced major land flood in one game, and got blown out by the unexpected appearance of Cobbled Wings in another, which were attached to a 7/7 Werewolf to kill me in two painful swings.  Apart from that I only lost one other game all day, to a rival Bloodline Keeper (that card is just stupid in Sealed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I have done anything better with my pool?  I felt that Black was an obvious conclusion, with three excellent rares to play with.  The blue cards were nearly nonexistent (though I did consider splashing for Forbidden Alchemy and Evil Twin), and Green seemed fine but very boring.  In the end I thought white provided the best contributions to my curve, especially given that a lot of Humans should work well with my Village Cannibals and especially a pair of Silver-Inlaid Daggers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One choice that created much discussion on the day was my decision not to maindeck Creepy Doll.  I sided it in (generally for Grimoire of the Dead) in pretty much every match, but that's partially because every one of my opponents was playing green and I wanted an answer to big ground-pounders.  My friend Dom Camus (of minor mtgsalvation.com celebrity) suggested that it should go into basically any deck, but I personally am very reluctant to play a 5 mana 1/1, even one as robust as the doll, in a format that I think is quicker and more aggressive than people are currently giving it credit for.  Was I badly wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T15:30:39.330" Title="What Is The Optimal Innistrad Sealed Deck From This Card Pool?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|sealed-deck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-05-22T21:43:21.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5152" CreationDate="2011-10-24T12:54:57.530" Score="3" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what happens when I attack with  &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=skinshifter&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skinshifter&lt;/a&gt;. Imagine the following situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=skinshifter&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skinshifter&lt;/a&gt; and in the assign blockers phase my opponent blocks Skinshifter with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt;. Can I say that I use Skinshifter's ability to turn him into a Rhino?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another situation. My opponent attacks with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221893&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt;. I block it with my Skinshifter. Can I turn him into a Plant when I assign my blockers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that Skinshifter haven't used his ability in that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T13:07:05.447" Title="Using Skinshifter's ability when Skinshifter Attacks" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5151" CreationDate="2011-10-24T13:07:05.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, both those situations would work.  Skinshifter's ability can be used at any time you receive priority(i.e any time you could cast an instant).  After both the Declare Attackers step and the Declare Blockers step, players receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T13:07:05.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5150" CreationDate="2011-10-24T19:52:29.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I think the strongest decks in Innistrad Limited are aggro or aggro-control. The format has been described as &quot;slow&quot;, but &quot;slow&quot; doesn't mean that decks that can't get off the ground before turn 4 aren't massively disadvantaging themselves. A lot of players are going to be drawn to werewolves and frankensteins in Limited, and end up with decks that are basically midrange; a decent aggro build with the right support cards can roll them pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black/red aggro is probably the fastest deck you can reasonable expect to put together in Innistrad draft or sealed. Your particular pool had Bloodline Keeper and Rakish Heir, but not nearly enough vampires to make vampires tribal viable, nor enough removal and fast attackers to justify generic black/red. In your case, white had the most depth in both removal and weenies, making it a superior choice to red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black part of the pool has two very strong control cards: Bloodline Keeper and Curse of Death's Hold. Short of Reaper from the Abyss or Olivia Voldaren, there's not much else I'd rather have. These should naturally push you towards a controlling strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2x Typhoid Rats, 2x Rebuke, and 1x Avacynian Priest really seal the deal: you have a lot of ability to shut down big threats. This is exactly what you need to stall the field long enough to win with either a swarm strategy or evasive vampire tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, playing a controlling white/black deck was entirely the right move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Creepy Doll and Grimoire of the Dead... I don't think either is a prime pick for this deck, really. Creepy Doll is fairly good except against black (the color of Dead Weight, Morkut Banshee, Curse of Death's Hold), but expensive for something that just forces a board stall. I don't think you had the right equipment to really make it worthwhile. I'm wary of Grimoire in a format where Ancient Grudge is common and many of your opponents are going to be playing cards that get better whenever you pass a turn without making a play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would play Rally the Peasants above either of these cards. You have the creature volume for it. It's not as powerful as Vampiric Fury and Hysterical Blindness, but it's still got serious blowout potential. With Isolated Chapel, you can safely splash Mountains to pay the flashbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, though, that &lt;strong&gt;in Sealed you don't have to return your deck to a &quot;main deck&quot; configuration for each game 1&lt;/strong&gt;. If you find you don't like a card (say, Grimoire), you can side it out and never bring it back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-29T15:30:39.330" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T15:30:39.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5156" CreationDate="2011-10-24T22:18:13.637" Score="6" ViewCount="2552" Body="&lt;p&gt;FNM is least stringent Rule Enforcement Level (REL) sanctioned Magic game there is.  My question is that at that REL, are there any behavioral rules, and if so, what are the consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Your opponent gets pissed that he didn't notice one of your viable blockers, you double block and kill his creature creating an outcome he didn't prepare for and decides the proper course of action is to accuse you of cheating and sweep your non-deck cards (sideboard and Dual-Faced Cards) off the table in a huff.  Should you call a judge in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T00:09:44.460" Title="Magic: The Gathering - Are there behavioral rules for sanctioned MTG games?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2011-10-24T23:02:26.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, the reason I use Precision is not because of the 1C opening directly, though it is much more useful than the old-style Strong 2s or the newer, Standard American Strong 2C just due to the frequency with which it comes up.  Rather, I like the fact that using 1C to open all hands of 16+ HCP (except for 22-24 balanced) limits all other openings to 11-15 HCP.  This allows responder to decide right away the level the partnership can safely explore.  Yes, there is plenty to learn as far as conventional bids in the system, but if you look at the top partnerships in the world, most of them play some kind of Forcing Club system like Precision, and most would probably say that it's because of the tight limit it places on all the other openings.  Benito Garozzo, one of bridge's greatest theorists, said just that, in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1945" LastActivityDate="2011-10-24T23:02:26.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5154" CreationDate="2011-10-24T23:56:42.113" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are behavioural rules, and yes there are consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chapter 5&lt;/strong&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/events/rules.aspx&quot;&gt;Wizards official tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; outlines Unsporting conduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;5.2. Unsporting Conduct — Major&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Penalty: Game Loss&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Definition&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unsporting Conduct — Major infractions fall into three categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Failing to follow a direct instruction from a tournament official.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Insulting another person based on his or her race, color, religion, national origin, age, gender, disability, or sexual orientation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Aggressive or violent behavior that is not directed at another person or another person’s property.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... snip ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;D. After losing a match, a player throws his cards onto the table and knocks his chair over in anger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... snip ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Additional Remedy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player must correct the behavior immediately, and can expect to be removed from the tournament venue upon further offenses. As with Unsporting Conduct — Minor infractions, if the offense occurs at the end of a game, it is acceptable for the judge to apply the penalty to the next game instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... snip ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;5.5. Unsporting Conduct — Aggressive Behavior&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Penalty: Disqualification&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Definition&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player acts in a threatening way towards others or their property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... snip ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;D. A player tears up a card belonging to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E. A player intentionally turns over a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Philosophy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The safety of all people at a tournament is of paramount importance. There will be no tolerance of physical abuse or intimidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Additional Remedy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The offender should be asked to leave the venue by the organizer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the ruling of the judge, your opponent could either be disqualified or assessed a game loss. I believe in this case, if he touched &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; cards and threw them on the floor, that would fall under 5.5 and he should be disqualified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Edit:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AHA, just noticed you asked about REL events. Well this is what the Judging at Regular REL document has to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are also certain behaviours that will not be tolerated in any event. Any player engaging in the following must be disqualified from your event;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aggressive, violent or abusive behaviour (physical or verbal)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cheating, lying or intentionally making illegal game actions or trying to avoid penalties&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Influencing Match outcomes (by incentives, coercion or random methods)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Theft (this includes things like replacing a chase rare in a draft with one from their binder)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you do have to hand out a Disqualification, let the players know that while your decision is final, the DCI would still like to hear their side of the story. Contact your WPN representative directly, and they will advise you further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they tournament organizers would be well within their rights to disqualify this person for aggressive behaviour, but they have more leeway. In any case, it certainly is grounds to call over a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T00:09:42.477" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T00:09:42.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5154" CreationDate="2011-10-25T00:04:29.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that tantrum-y players get a stern talking-to from the event organizer (or a judge) and then gets booted if the behavior persists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For straight-up violent or threatening behavior, skip right to that &quot;getting booted&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details from the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Document.aspx?x=Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular REL&lt;/a&gt;&quot; handout:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- General Unwanted Behaviours -&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There will sometimes be issues that do not have official fixes, but&#xA;  need to be discouraged. These include, but are not limited to;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Players taking unreasonable amounts of time side-boarding or making play decisions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Inadequate shuffling after a search&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Asking for, or providing, strategy advice during a tournament match or booster draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In all of these cases, educate the player on better behaviour – for&#xA;  example, alternate shuffling techniques or the importance of allowing&#xA;  players to make their own decisions. Players continuing to exhibit&#xA;  specific unwanted behaviour after being instructed otherwise should be&#xA;  issued with a Game Loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players arriving late to their game deserve a special mention, as&#xA;  players more than ten minutes late are considered to have forfeited&#xA;  their match. Also deserving special mention are players engaging in&#xA;  conduct that you feel is likely to upset, offend or affect the safety&#xA;  of others – e.g. using foul language or tearing up cards. Give these&#xA;  players a stern chat about what is expected in your event/store – and&#xA;  let them know that failure to curb this behaviour is considered a&#xA;  Serious Problem and will result in their disqualification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;- Serious Problems -&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are also certain behaviours that will not be tolerated in any&#xA;  event. Any player engaging in the following must be disqualified from&#xA;  your event;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Aggressive, violent or abusive behaviour (physical or verbal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cheating, lying or intentionally making illegal game actions or trying to avoid penalties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Influencing Match outcomes (by incentives, coercion or random methods)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Theft (this includes things like replacing a chase rare in a draft with one from their binder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you do have to hand out a Disqualification, let the players know&#xA;  that while your decision is final, the DCI would still like to hear&#xA;  their side of the story. Contact your WPN representative directly, and&#xA;  they will advise you further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-10-25T00:09:44.460" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T00:09:44.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-10-25T13:34:38.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes they do. You might confuse this &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt; with a &lt;em&gt;replacement effect&lt;/em&gt;. Replacement effects doesn't stack because, as the name suggests, they replace the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick googling gave me this:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=317005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=317005&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T13:34:38.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2011-10-25T13:51:23.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing the Golem/Counting House combo you'll want to buy 1 Copper (or 4 in a Colony game). It works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play Golem, find your single Counting House, but you find no other actions and discard the entire deck after which Counting House puts all Coppers in your hand and you buy a Province/Colony. This strategy is actually quite weak because it needs too much time to set up on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T13:51:23.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5133" CreationDate="2011-10-25T13:55:28.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The players gets the tokens. The key here is that both the abilities are &lt;em&gt;triggered abilities&lt;/em&gt; and no &lt;em&gt;replacement effects&lt;/em&gt;. If it would have been worded something like: &quot;If a creature would be put into your graveyard from play you may exile it instead. If you do imprint that creature on ~this~.&quot;. Then the creature would never be put into the graveyard and the creature's &quot;When put into graveyard&quot; would not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T13:55:28.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2011-10-25T14:04:55.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing without Colonies, then Alchemist is often a weak card. The opportunity cost of buying the 2 Potions the strategy needs is quite big and a non-Potion strategy will be able to build an insurmountable lead in victory points if there are no +Buy cards on the board for the Alchemist strategy to catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just buy a single Smithy/Masquerade/Envoy+treasures and expect to beat the Alchemist player 8 games out of ten...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T14:04:55.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5246" CreationDate="2011-10-25T14:35:21.120" Score="16" ViewCount="7663" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a number of games I play there are a play deck and a discard deck (for example Ticket to Ride and Pandemic).  The discard deck, by the way the games are constructed, becomes organised as cards are discarded in groups.  However, the play deck needs to be as close to random as possible for the games to work well.  I would like to know if there is an optimal way to shuffle a deck to overcome the self organisation of the discard decks in these circumstances.  I can riffle shuffle well but have read some research that it would take 7 full riffle shuffles to effectivley remove the affects of an organised deck.  Are there any other methods of cuttings of the deck or shuffle types that create a random deck in a more efficient manner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T16:00:24.593" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T16:00:24.593" Title="What is the optimal method to shuffle an organised deck of cards" Tags="|playing-cards|statistics|shuffling|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4971" CreationDate="2011-10-25T15:34:13.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's the other way around. When is it worth wasting 4 mana worth of tempo for the gain of exchanging one card in your hand for one from your deck? I think you need a good reason even to run Demonic Tutor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as always in MtG it's situational. What do you want to accomplish? How have you planned to win/not lose? We can give the best suggestions if you provide a decklist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T15:34:13.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2011-10-25T15:35:39.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boiteajeux.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boiteajeux.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added Agricola on 28/07/11. Very well made. Board and card scans are from the French edition, but tool tips are in English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1948" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T15:35:39.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-25T15:44:42.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Randomization&quot;&gt;Shuffling at the Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; discusses the famous paper by Persi Diaconis and Dave Bayer which shows that a 52 card deck of cards doesn't become random until the fifth shuffle, and requires seven shuffles to become &quot;truly&quot; random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question &quot;Are there any other methods of cuttings of the deck or shuffle types that create a more random deck?&quot; isn't really asking the right question. Even just cutting the deck will randomize the deck just as well as any other method, given enough cuts. No other method will make it any &quot;more random&quot;. The real question is &quot;how many cuts are required to fully randomize a deck of X cards?&quot; or &quot;How many riffle shuffles are required?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokerology.com has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokerology.com/poker-articles/how-to-shuffle-cards/&quot;&gt;videos and tutorials&lt;/a&gt; for six different methods of shuffling cards. I think that for smaller decks like Ticket To Ride, simply splaying them out on the playing surface face down and messing them about, followed by a few riffle and overhand shuffles should be enough to randomize the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T15:44:42.763" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-25T16:04:25.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Ticket to ride, 3-5 riffle shuffles should be sufficient to randomize the deck sufficiently for play. As long as the runs of matched cards aren't 5-6 cards long, it's not a big issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note that japanese style block shuffling is inadequate for TTR until about the 9th or  time through the deck, which I discovered due to using sleeved cards in Nordic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for sleeved cards, riffling is a nearly surefire way to strip the sleeves, so sliding a block sideways into the deck works well. Holding the deck loosely, pull a block, the place it looselysideways against the side of the deck, and gently push - it should interpenetrate. This is actually about as efective as riffling if done with half the deck at a time, but it's easier to stack a deck this way, so have someone else cut the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T16:04:25.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-25T16:31:29.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With every card game I play I do a mix of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Riffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Riffle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Stripping_or_overhand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stripping&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Mongean_shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mongean-Stripping Combo&lt;/a&gt;.  I generally intermix these in a random order with a random number of times, usually at least 3.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that mixing shuffling techniques, especially in a random order, will result in a fairly nice card distribution and randomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2011-10-25T16:31:29.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5169" CreationDate="2011-10-25T17:36:07.770" Score="10" ViewCount="1977" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I will have Axx in a key suit, opposite dummy's holdings of Kxxxx. In such situations, I was taught to make a &quot;ducking&quot; play by playing a low card from both sides, instead of playing an A or K, and letting the opponents win with a Q or J or some other card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of this is that I save my A and K for later rounds. So is the ducking play like a &quot;hold up?&quot; Or is it used for a &quot;throw in&quot; situation where I want to put an opponent on lead? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of ducking? Are there times when this would be a bad play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-09T15:30:26.340" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T13:48:09.260" Title="What is the Purpose of a &quot;Ducking&quot; Play In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5168" CreationDate="2011-10-25T19:06:30.950" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ducking can be used for multiple purposes (not necessarily all on same hand, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some uses of ducking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Entry creation&lt;/strong&gt;: This IMO is the primary use. Sometimes you duck in your side suit to make sure you have enough entries to establish the suit and cash it. Notice that the primary use of hold-up is to prevent opponents from having entries to cash a suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;xxx&#xA;xx&#xA;AKxxxx&#xA;xx&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;AKx&#xA;AKx&#xA;xx&#xA;Axxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are in 3NT, playing rubber bridge. Opponents lead a spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 5 tricks outside of diamonds and need at least 4 from the diamond suit. You have to hope diamonds break 3-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play diamonds from the top, on a 3-2 break, you will lose the third round, and establish the suit, but you will not have a way to cash them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you duck the first round of the suit, then you have lost a trick while you hold a small diamond in your hand. Now once you get back in, you can play a diamond to dummy and play AK drawing the opponents diamonds and are in dummy to cash the rest of the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoidance&lt;/strong&gt;: You duck a suit making sure an opponent who cannot harm you will win the trick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AQx&#xA;AKxxxx&#xA;xx&#xA;xx&#xA;&#xA;9xx&#xA;xx&#xA;AKQJT9&#xA;AK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are play rubber bridge and have gotten to a diamond small slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LHO leads the spade 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 11 top tricks, and the 12th can either come from either the spade finesse, or by establishing a long heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play the SQ at trick 1, RHO might with the K and knock out your spade A, thus removing your option of establishing the long heart too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct play is a low spade from trick 1. The 9 in your hand ensure that your RHO has to win it, who cannot attack spades without giving your the 12 trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This play also lets you combine your chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say RHO plays back a club. Now you can draw trumps, play AK of hearts and ruff a heart.&#xA;If hearts prove to be 4-1, you can fall back on the spade finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timing&lt;/strong&gt;: You might duck to rectify the count of a squeeze, at a time it is convenient to you, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common example (for defence) which is cited for this is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South is playing 6NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        KQJ&#xA;        AKJ&#xA;        AKQx&#xA;        Qxx&#xA;xxx           Axxx&#xA;xx            xxxxx&#xA;JT98          xx&#xA;JT98          xx&#xA;        xxx&#xA;        Qxx&#xA;        xxx&#xA;        AKxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say West leads a spade and East should hold up. Declarer wins and play a spade. East should hold up again. Now if declarer plays another spade, East can cash two tricks. If declarer abandons spades, no matter what he does he cannot avoid losing two tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If east takes either the first or second spade, declarer's count is rectified and West gets squeezed in the minors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with almost every play, there are times where it would be a bad play. For instance, you duck and realize you just gave away the setting trick :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T22:46:41.713" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T22:46:41.713" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5171" CreationDate="2011-10-25T20:34:06.867" Score="13" ViewCount="4732" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Duelist used to publish MTG puzzles by Mark Rosewater in which you were placed in the last turn of a game and had to figure out the correct play to win.  I remember these puzzles being extremely fun and a great way to improve skills.  I know that these puzzle were collected in Magic: the Puzzling, but with the M10 rules changes, these might be outdated/broken.  Is there any other place I could find something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastActivityDate="2018-09-26T22:07:37.283" Title="Where can I find Magic: the Gathering puzzles?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|puzzles|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5170" CreationDate="2011-10-26T00:12:01.867" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/digital/DuelsOfThePlaneswalkers.aspx&quot;&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers 2012&lt;/a&gt; includes several puzzle games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gatheringmagic.com has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/category/puzzles/&quot;&gt;pretty nice archive&lt;/a&gt; of puzzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T00:12:01.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5173" CreationDate="2011-10-26T00:39:37.533" Score="5" ViewCount="1995" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that creatures with shadow can only block or be blocked by creatures with shadow, and creatures with flying can only be blocked by creatures with flying. If I have a creature with shadow and cast a spell that gives it flying (say, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193743&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jump&lt;/a&gt;), can it now only be blocked by nothing but a creature that also has both those abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T13:22:08.090" Title="If my creature has shadow and flying, can it only be blocked by creatures with shadow AND flying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5172" CreationDate="2011-10-26T01:00:01.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a general sense, you are correct. Both abilities impose a restriction that's tracked individually. A creature must satisfy all the restrictions in order to block your super-evasive attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one niggle is that there are non-flyers that can block fliers, such as creatures with reach. And there are a few creatures, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4855&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wall of Diffusion&lt;/a&gt;, that don't have shadow but have &amp;quot;~ can block creatures with shadow as though ~ had shadow&amp;quot; as an ability, which allows them to block shadow creatures (and non-shadow creatures as well, since they don't actually have shadow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some comp rules for ya, with this exact example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1b&lt;/strong&gt; The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it’s affected by    any restrictions (effects that say a&#xA;creature can’t block, or that it can’t block unless some    condition&#xA;is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of&#xA;blockers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A restriction may be created by an evasion ability (a static ability an attacking creature has    that restricts what can block&#xA;it). If an attacking creature gains or loses an evasion ability after&#xA;a    legal block has been declared, it doesn’t affect that block.&#xA;Different evasion abilities are    cumulative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: An attacking creature with flying and shadow can’t be blocked by a creature with flying but without shadow.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivia: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=109671&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stronghold Overseer&lt;/a&gt; has both flying and shadow natively. On a 5/5 body to boot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T13:22:08.090" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5172" CreationDate="2011-10-26T07:28:43.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you need both to fulfill both requirements to be able to block a creature with both shadow and flying. You can fulfill these requirements either by having shadow and flying or through other abilities such as reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T07:28:43.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-26T07:30:41.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;ghoppe already posted the link to wikipedia and aramis told you about shuffling sleeved cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally employ a strategy of about 2 riffle and 1 strip shuffle repeated 2-3 times depending on how heavily the deck is ordered. Riffle is good to mix cards, and strip to reorder the top and bottom part of the deck. If you have a smooth and large enough surface also don't underestimate a wash shuffle - it's an especially convenient way to shuffle large and heavily ordered decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T07:30:41.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-26T07:54:43.150" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's very, very simple in fact: shuffle the discard pile constantly. Take a player that, while not playing his turn, shuffles the discard pile of cards. When discarding, simply give the cards to this player (who can change when he's tired), he will put them in the deck and go on shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T07:54:43.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-26T10:13:05.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or there's always the lazy option: automatic card shuffler. I was surprised, they're available easily for less than $20 on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T10:13:05.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-26T13:10:14.943" Score="16" ViewCount="7080" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I visited a friend who'd recently taken up playing Agricola with her husband.  &quot;We think there should be a bigger handicap for going second,&quot; she said, &quot;Otherwise the person who keeps taking the wood always wins.&quot;  I thought this was rubbish, and took her on in a 2-player game, letting her take wood first every time while I concentrated on a Major Improvements-dominated strategy.  I can't remember the final scoreline but I'm pretty sure I won the game by double figures of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just played a 2-player game on the excellent boiteajeux.net, where my opponent went first, and started as he meant to go on, by hogging the wood space.  I had some really bad Occupations and Minor Improvements: I played the Pieceworker in the first round, but thereafter never had a really big incentive to play another card.  Opponent took some more wood, and eventually some reed, before playing - uh, oh - the Wet Nurse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided in the face of this obviously unbalanced game not to scrabble for 3 wood or the starting player token (I had no good Minor Improvements to play after all), but to cut my foe mercilessly off food whenever possible.  This certainly slowed the pace of his domination of the game, but he still had enough breathing room always to take 6 wood when it was available.  Eventually he made his move and grew his house from 3 to 5 rooms with a full complement of people, with me still on 2 actions a turn.  I continued to make it hard for him to get easy food grabs, but ultimately he was able to build a lot of fences while my farmyard had, in the end, 2 rooms, 5 fields, 1 pasture... and 7 painfully empty spaces.  The ultimate scoreline was 43-30 in his favour, not exactly a rout but not very close either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is: is it &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt; to win Agricola this way?  Do you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to compete for the wood to go under?  Against my married friend I was able to keep her in check by cutting reed to keep her off room building; but this might not work against a more determined opponent.  Should I have resigned myself to the fact that I needed to &quot;waste&quot; an action by taking Starting Player without having a minor improvement to play?  Or to take 3 wood even though this would give my opponent more opportunities to move ahead in other areas and cement his lead?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can I just chalk up my loss to the fact that the Wet Nurse is a bit unfair against a player with no good cards of their own to fight back with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T20:35:05.753" Title="Is It Possible To Win 2-Player Agricola Without Taking Wood?" Tags="|tactics|agricola|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-10-26T14:31:56.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, I shuffle using a combination of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Stripping_or_overhand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;overhand&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Hindu_shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hindu shuffle&lt;/a&gt;. I start with the pack in my left hand, pluck out the middle half with my right, and then proceed to drop blocks of cards alternatively onto the top and then bottom of the pack, using a quick flick of fingers or thumb to swap between cards dropping onto the top or bottom of the pack. Two or three rounds of this do a pretty good job of randomising for most games. For highly ordered discard piles however, this can leave small clusters of related cards, even after quite a few rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I really want to ensure that I break up sequences though, I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Pile_shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pile shuffle&lt;/a&gt; with the slight variation that I deal each card onto a random pile rather than visiting each pile in turn. One round of this is usually enough to break up the sequences, then I usually finish off with a quick round or two of hand shuffling, as I describe above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have the time, I'll do a pair of pile shuffles, picking two different prime numbers for the number of piles in each round. This can can substantially amplify the randomisation, even if you use a sequential pile shuffle, since correlations between number of piles and sequence length will be broken by lack of correlation between the number of piles in each round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll let people I trust &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Riffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;riffle shuffle&lt;/a&gt; game cards, but it is far to easy to damage cards with this technique if you aren't good at it. I certainly don't trust &lt;em&gt;myself&lt;/em&gt; not to damage my cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, when playing at a table, with plenty of space, it's very tempting to just do a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Corgi.2C_Chemmy.2C_Irish_or_Wash_shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;big wash&lt;/a&gt;, but I've never been happy with the results of a this technique. It is far too easy for related cards and even quite large blocks to end up staying together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T14:31:56.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5181" CreationDate="2011-10-26T15:23:46.657" Score="7" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy way to see which cards were added and removed between core sets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, by looking up the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189879&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; I can see that it was in both M10 and M11, but was not included in M12.  Now on a single-card basis, it's not too hard, but I've got a lot of M11 that I want to go through and see which cards are still legal in standard, and searching Gatherer by card will get pretty tiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T15:34:00.987" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:35:37.830" Title="Easy way to see changes between core sets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5180" CreationDate="2011-10-26T15:39:01.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;wiki.mtgsalvation.com is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Magic_2012/Changes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Magic_2012/Changes&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, has complete lists of all the cards that were added to M12 and removed from M11.  You can find the same information for all previous core sets too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there are useful sections on changes in rarity from previous printings, and also a running tally of cards that had (up to that date) been included in every Core Set.  Go go Giant Spider!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T15:39:01.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5184" CreationDate="2011-10-26T15:48:38.853" Score="5" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220631&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stitcher's Apprentice&lt;/a&gt;, and she thinks that you can activate its ability, use the homunculus to block, and then sac the homunculus.  Is this possible, or does the sacrifice have to happen before the homunculus can be declared as a blocker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-10-27T04:03:02.577" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T04:03:02.577" Title="Order of events with Stitcher's Apprentice" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5182" CreationDate="2011-10-26T16:01:28.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an ability resolves, all parts of it are resolved in the listed order. You can't interpose any other actions (including playing another ability, but also including ending a step). So, you must sac a creature immediately after the homunculus comes into play (before any ETB triggers even go off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; do is chump block with a creature you already have on the field (including the Apprentice itself), then activate the Apprentice's ability between the declare-blockers step and the combat-damage step, sacrificing your chump. Even if you end up saccing the Apprentice to its own ability, you're still trading up to a 2/2 and getting a body in your graveyard, which is useful in an Innistrad blue deck looking for corpses to enable cards like Skaab Goliath and Stitched Drake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T16:16:18.063" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T16:16:18.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5182" CreationDate="2011-10-26T17:56:03.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alex P has the answer right, but I thought it prudent to point out the principles you and your girlfriend are missing when it comes to the declare blockers step and playing and resolving abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;509. Declare Blockers Step&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the defending player declares blockers. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. To declare blockers, the defending player follows the steps below, in order. If at any point during the declaration of blockers, the defending player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &quot;Handling Illegal Actions&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this well: declaring blockers is a turn-based action that doesn't use the stack. Therefore, if she wants to block with the Homunculus token, your girlfriend has to play the ability to generate the token during the &lt;strong&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/strong&gt;, after you've declared  your attackers but before the Declare Blockers Step begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When abilities are played, the costs are payed (everything before the colon) &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; the ability is placed on the stack. &lt;em&gt;Nothing happens yet.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, one of the costs to play the ability is tapping the Stitcher therefore she won't be able to block with it in the Declare Blockers Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While abilities are on the stack, players may play any other abilities or instant spells and place them on the stack but you cannot end any phase or step &lt;em&gt;until you resolve any effects, abilities or spells on the stack&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I point this out to emphasize that the Declare Attacker's Step &lt;strong&gt;doesn't end until the stack is empty.&lt;/strong&gt; There is no opportunity to declare blockers until the stack is empty. Even if she could do something during the resolution of the Stitcher's ability (see below), she couldn't declare blockers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you start to resolve an ability or spell on the stack, you cannot do anything else besides following the instructions of the ability. The only things that can happen is that triggered abilities that depend on game state may be placed on the stack for resolution later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Stitcher's ability resolves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a 2/2 blue Homunculus creature token onto the battlefield,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then sacrifice a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She could sacrifice the Homunculus just created &lt;strike&gt;and any &quot;when a creature enters the battlefield&quot; triggered actions will still trigger and be placed on the stack to be resolved or responded to with other effects after the Homunculus is sacrificed.&lt;/strike&gt; But the Declare Blockers step hasn't begun yet, so it wouldn't be available to block as it is dead. The Stitcher would be tapped, too, so it wouldn't be available to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Oops, got this striked-out part wrong. &quot;Enters the battlefield&quot; trigger isn't state-based, it's event-based. A trigger would have to be written as &quot;if you ever have X creatures in play&quot; or something similar for it to be state based. Very tricky and non-intuitive part of the rules, in my opinion!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Alex P suggested, she could wait until the Declare Blockers Step, declare the Stitcher as a blocker, then play the Stitcher's ability. (Note he misspoke a bit. There is no &quot;between the declare-blockers step and the combat-damage step&quot; — the ability resolves during the Declare Blockers Step.)  When the ability resolves, she could sacrifice the Stitcher and have a Homunculus token on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, During the Combat Damage Step, your attacker is still considered blocked, but has no creature blocking it, so it deals no damage (unless it has trample or some other deals damage as though it wasn't blocked ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-10-26T19:02:25.523" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T19:02:25.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5180" CreationDate="2011-10-26T18:35:37.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that you could use the compact listing of Gatherer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;output=compact&amp;amp;set=%20%5B%22Magic%202011%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;show all the cards in M11&lt;/a&gt; or show &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;output=compact&amp;amp;set=%20%5B%22Magic%202010%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;all the cards in M10&lt;/a&gt;, and then quickly visually scan which ones do not include the M12 symbol. It's easy to see because the symbols are in release order, newest first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, search limitations don't allow you to &quot;filter&quot; cards that are NOT in Standard or M12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this method I was able to find this piece of trivia: there is only one card printed in M10 or M11, but not in M12, that is still Standard tournament legal: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shatter&lt;/a&gt;. It was printed in Scars of Mirrodin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-10-26T18:35:37.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5189" CreationDate="2011-10-26T23:47:17.430" Score="12" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your experience, do most players &quot;fold&quot; when someone who seldom plays enters the pot? Does this mean that it is a good idea to play in some borderline (presumably break even) situations, just to weaken perceptions of one's being tight? And how, if at all, does this vary from low to high limit games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T02:10:33.450" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T13:11:22.703" Title="In Poker is it true that &quot;you must give action to get action&quot;?" Tags="|poker|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5186" CreationDate="2011-10-27T07:23:43.590" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're talking about is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://poker.olbg.com/Poker+Table+Image.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Table Image&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table image is important because it represents what other players think they know about you and how you play.  If you play very tight (very few hands, only very good cards), and players see this, they're only going to stay in the pot with you, if they also have very good cards (in which case you should be a little worried).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not strictly true that you must LOSE hands (VPIP, or hands you voluntarily put into the pot), but you do need to play such that your opponents don't know what kind of cards you might have.  This may mean bluffing 10% of the time, or it could be more sophisticated, like always playing in position (when you're one of the last to bet), since then they won't know if you have good cards, or are just playing position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general though, if &lt;em&gt;ALL&lt;/em&gt; you do is &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; bet when you have a tier 1 hand, then yes, people are just going to fold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T07:23:43.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5221" CreationDate="2011-10-27T09:51:15.993" Score="3" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/2011/oct/27/zia-mahmood-bridge-world-championships&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zia Mahmood's Bridge column today&lt;/a&gt; relates an amusing tale of disaster at the World Championships.  A player on the apparently very talented Netherlands ladies team, holding the following 6-3-2-2 hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠ 7 5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♥ Q J 5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♦ J 4&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♣ A K Q J 8 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all managed to open a strong 1NT; and then, more astonishingly, refused to transfer to spades despite &lt;em&gt;no less than 6 consecutive calls to transfer&lt;/em&gt; from her poor partner!  (Follow the link for the full story.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With partner holding 4 points, 7 spades and a singleton heart, the contract went 6 down in 4 hearts redoubled for a penalty of 3400, the largest ever recorded in world championship play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, this a world-class player we're talking about.  Is there any logical reason why she should have so doggedly refused to transfer to spades? Did she take the heart bids literally? Did she think her hearts are that much better than her spades, even though partner is rightly rather insistent that hearts are a terrible suit to be in.  So what could have been going on in South's mind?  Or had she just been paid money to throw the World Championships? ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T20:23:48.483" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T17:33:20.477" Title="What caused this world-class player' to respond inappropriately to her partner's transfer bids?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5186" CreationDate="2011-10-27T10:33:19.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Neal says this is called &lt;em&gt;Table Image&lt;/em&gt;. If you just draw crappy cards for a while and realize people probably see you as tight then that is great! No matter what your table image is you can use it to your advantage if you know about it. &#xA;Say they think you're really tight, then you'll have an easy time stealing pots with bad cards. Or if they think you're quite loose you probably will get more action on your great hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't bother thinking about if you &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to give action to not &lt;em&gt;seem too tight&lt;/em&gt;. Instead use your table image to your advantage and scare them out of pots you want to win fast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2019-03-29T12:08:40.083" LastActivityDate="2019-03-29T12:08:40.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5188" CreationDate="2011-10-27T18:16:15.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not so rare that good bridge players bid with hands that are not textbook examples for that bid. For this hand 1NT is not terrible. However, one has to be prepared that something unexpected might happen after an unusual bid, and it seems that this lady wasn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1729" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T18:16:15.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5188" CreationDate="2011-10-27T23:09:35.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a world class player, but I don't like to play transfers, so on a &quot;bad&quot; day, I'll interpret the heart bid literally, credit my partner with ATxxxx, and wonder why East keeps doubling with Kxxx. On hearing the redoubles, I'll decide that no, partner has AKxxxx, leaving East with Txxx. With 8-10 points for a two level bid, partner will have either spades or diamonds stopped, and we'll have an easy game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And no, I'm not sensitive to redoubles and will take them literally, in this case credit partner with MORE than ten points, that is ACE of either spades or diamonds, plus AK of hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All wrong, of course, but all plausible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T23:09:35.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5186" CreationDate="2011-10-27T23:51:09.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing a typical low-limit online table, for example, most of your opponents are probably multi-tabling and not paying much attention to what you're doing; unless they're using stat-tracking software, it's unlikely they have any idea how often you've been playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chances are, if you're stealing the blinds as often as you should, people will call&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2011-10-27T23:51:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4267" CreationDate="2011-10-28T00:07:15.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first game, I got almost to 19 and the winner got 20; my second game, I scored 20 points (no loans, 15 coins left). It caused a big of a stir on boardgamegeek, since Uwe said nobody beat 19 in testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been a couple of years, so I can't remember the details, but I see this game as an exercise in efficiency. Use your veggies right so you never have to discard them, always go up two steps early on when it's cheap (although the turn I went 3 steps was 8-9-10), never take loans, keep the 2-packs cheap..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this bit I wrote about the game back then, discussing the game on BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I usually had 2-3 regular customers and one fewer casual customer; I&#xA;  skipped delivering to each regular customer 1 time to plant. I believe&#xA;  I bought 2 extra fields. I never sold to the shop (although I&#xA;  considered it once) and I actually used the helper who refills the&#xA;  shop so I could buy more grain. I used two-packs to manage the number&#xA;  of customers so that I always had more regular than casual without&#xA;  letting any regular customer go unsatisfied more than once. Like last&#xA;  game, I started with radishes, although next time I think I want to try &#xA;  starting with grain if possible. The first time I played I concentrated&#xA;  on keeping max{shops, helpers} to 1 for cheap 2-packs; this time I used&#xA;  the helper who makes your 2-packs free regardless (I think I got him &#xA;  twice, once when I had several helpers covering customers I was saving)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It could be my group just isn't that nasty - we didn't really use any&#xA;  of the interaction cards to mess each other up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Edit: yes, I realize I used the word shop to refer to two different&#xA;  things, but I don't have the rules handy and I think it's fairly&#xA;  obvious what I mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T00:07:15.680" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-10-28T13:53:54.527" Score="8" ViewCount="10701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people specifically mention they use automatic shufflers with easily replaceable cards, but what about if it matters if the cards get damaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the drawbacks to using automatic shufflers?&lt;/strong&gt; Does machine shuffling cause any more damage than would occur through a normal riffle shuffle? I've also seen some mention that automatic shufflers don't truly randomize the deck. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-04T05:19:04.170" LastActivityDate="2020-06-16T17:57:29.630" Title="What are the drawbacks of an automatic card shuffler?" Tags="|playing-cards|shuffling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1757" CreationDate="2011-10-28T16:20:56.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Powerlord's answer is quite good.  I'd add Masquerade to his list of effective counters, particularly if you can combo it with Goons or Militia.  (But then again, comboing Masquerade with either of those is ALWAYS a good time.  :-)  )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing in Isotropic, I usually beeline for Alchemist when it's available.  Usually the other player does the same thing; I rarely lose when he doesn't, but it DOES happen, even when none of Powerlord's anti-Alchemist cards are in play.  If you've got a set lacking any +buys and that has other powerful cards, you can defeat the Alchemist if you can get to the Provinces before his deck hits critical mass.  In a 2-player game with no extra buys, an early two-Province edge can be damn near insurmountable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you don't get that edge, once he goes critical he'll be drawing his entire deck every turn.  Alchemist is one of the few cards in the game I regard as simply broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T16:20:56.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2011-10-28T16:32:01.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;shujaa's answer is quite good, and I'd chime in with a few other things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Apothecary/Coppersmith combo is quite dangerous, and can give you some damn big turns if you can get some other card draws and +buys into the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're pulling most of your deck and have Moneylender or Spice Merchant, it may be worthwhile to use stray +buys on Copper just to keep them fed.  Bishop too, but shujaa is right that you're better off tossing Estates or other $2 cards into that wood chipper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your deck is utterly polluted with Curses and Estates that you can't get rid of, it may be worth buying Coppers just to make the ghastly suck less dense.  Of course, you're probably going to lose pretty hard anyway, but I prefer to go down swinging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T16:32:01.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4878" CreationDate="2011-10-28T19:43:01.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can equip multiple Toryn Gauntlets to one hero, adding the benefits together. Note also that you do not add together the weights of the various weapons - each weapon's weight is compared to the hero's strength individually, so a hero of strength 2 could equip a gauntlet (weight 2, I believe - assume it's right for the example) and another weapon of weight 4 (2 strength from the hero base and 2 strength from the gauntlet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T19:43:01.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2011-10-28T19:55:10.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've seen (though not an official ruling) is that cards with no cost printed on them are assumed to have a cost of 0, and so can be destroyed to get something that costs up to 2. Note that these are costs, not gold values (so the amount of gold you have to pay to get the card in your deck, not the amount of gold the card gives you when it's in your hand and you go to the village).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is different than my understanding of gold value where I think that something needs to be printed on the card (why else would the Militia cards have a printed 0 gold value? why not just leave the gold value off?) I'm less certain on my interpretations of gold value though, so could be interpreting things incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2011-10-28T19:55:10.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:12:48.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen a site that offers the right kind of tactics training for beginners, including emrald.net.  While I think strong players do well on sites like emrald.net, I do not believe the converse is necessarily true: that players who &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; do well on sites like emrald.net do well in playing real games.   Strong players certainly have excellent tactical vision, and high ratings on emrald.net will reflect this.  But strong players also possess other qualities which make them strong, including a consistent and thorough thought process, which emrald.net does not measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beginners and improving players, it's very important to start tactics study with a set (on the order of several hundred) of fairly simple tactical positions, and to go through them repeatedly, over and over, until you can instantly recognize them, spending only up to a minute or so on each position, then looking at the answer (and decreasing this time each pass through the set), and moving on to the next problem.   Recognition is the goal in the beginning, not building tactical analysis skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best way to do this is to use randomized &quot;flash cards&quot; with the only instruction being &quot;white/black to move.&quot;  One excellent source of suitable positions is John Bain's book: &quot;Chess Tactics for Students&quot;  (as recommended by Dan Heisman, &lt;a href=&quot;http://danheisman.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://danheisman.com&lt;/a&gt;, the top guru of beginning/improving chess instruction).   I copied, cut, and laminated all the positions in that book, making flash cards out of them, and studied them in randomized order repeatedly until I knew the entire set on sight instantly.   This gave a huge boost to my playing performance and to my further tactics studies of more involved problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactical ability is certainly right at the top of importance, but along with it is developing a proper &quot;thought process.&quot;  One thing a proper thought process includes (among many others, this is just a simple example) is a safety check for all candidate moves (moves you're thinking about making when it's your turn to play): &quot;will this move lose material or allow a mating attack against me?&quot;    Without a consistent thought process, all tactics, strategy, endgames, opening knowledge is basically useless.   It takes just one bad move to lose a game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many techniques to help reinforce a good thought process, but again, sites like emrald.net do not assist in that sort of training when used in the typical fashion.   When I was using emrald.net actively, I worked only for accuracy, never for speed.    Used in such a way I think the site can be useful as a training aid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:12:48.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="967" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:35:14.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening memorization is not important at all, especially to casual play, and shouldn't be the focus of study time for serious players, either, even up to around expert/master level.   For casual play, you should instead follow basic opening principles: put a pawn or two in the center, move all your pieces once before moving any piece twice (unless there's a tactic), castle.   For serious players, it's worth playing a few openings and learning them well, slowly building your mental tree of opening variations game by game, by playing a game and looking up the official lines afterwards, to see where you diverged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once spoke with a well known local expert player, who confided to me that he wished he could &quot;get all those years back&quot; that he spent studying openings.   I asked &quot;what would you study instead?&quot;  He instantly responded: &quot;tactics and endgames.&quot;   He usually played unorthodox gambit openings and almost always built a great attack with the initiative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:35:14.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:55:28.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're in an interesting position -- most players, especially below master level, are much better at attack than at defense.  In fact, adopting an &quot;attacking&quot; style that is not necessarily perfectly sound (i.e., gambits that trade material for initiative) will very often result in the opponent &quot;folding&quot; under the pressure of a steady onslaught.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 to Shannon for recommending endgame study.   It's my favorite part of the game, personally.   When you know endgames well, you will see in your games the opportunity to steer the game (by making certain trades of material and creating certain pawn structures, for example) toward favorable endgames and away from unfavorable ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, study of tactics is really important, especially in developing attacks.   You say you love to control the center -- well there's a reason for doing this in chess, it's to give your pieces a launching point to attack!  If you can amass your army in the center against a point around the opponent's king, beyond your opponent's ability to defend, you can win by throwing material at the opponent's king to open lines to the king, then mount a checkmating attack (as Fischer said, &quot;sac, sac, mate!&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing famous chess instructor National Master Dan Heisman (http://danheisman.com) recommends is to study annotated collections of master games, relatively quickly.   After going through a sufficient number of games (around a thousand or so?  That's why you should go through them quickly!), you'll really start to get a feel for moves that masters make, and how they take advantage of positional advantages like center control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also +1 to BlueRaja for Art of Attack in Chess.  A great book about attacking themes and patterns, so you can recognize the possibilities for attacking the king in your own games as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:55:28.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4391" CreationDate="2011-10-29T16:59:58.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terminology clarification: the three-fold repetition of position is one of the ways for a game to be &lt;em&gt;drawn&lt;/em&gt;.   A &lt;em&gt;stalemate&lt;/em&gt; (where an opponent has no legal moves on his turn) is another way for a game to be &lt;em&gt;drawn&lt;/em&gt;.  Other ways to draw: 1) when neither side has &lt;em&gt;sufficient mating material&lt;/em&gt; (like only kings left on the board, or one side has only a bishop or only a knight); 2) 50 moves have passed without a capture or pawn move; 3) mutual agreement of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T16:59:58.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5210" CreationDate="2011-10-29T18:24:38.937" Score="8" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like cards that are based around scrying and drawing additional cards would be a nice addition to any deck. But what decks do they &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; shine in and what decks can safely forgo them? It seems like scrying cards would be better for combo decks where you really need to draw a specific card, whereas drawing cards would be good in almost any deck that could afford them. Of course, they don't actually do anything to help you win on their own, so you would need to carefully consider how they affected your actual strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What decks should and shouldn't have cards that give no benefit other than card drawing? How can I tell if &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=Foresee&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a scrying card&lt;/a&gt; would be better than a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m11/en/60.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;drawing card&lt;/a&gt; and vice-versa? What decks are card-drawing cards best and worst in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4924/when-should-i-add-life-gain-cards-to-my-deck-in-mtg&quot;&gt;This goes with my similar question about life gain cards.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T12:12:47.507" Title="When should I add cards whose primary feature is drawing more cards to my MTG deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5205" CreationDate="2011-10-29T18:31:25.443" Score="7" ViewCount="32364" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QB3sz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hit and Run card&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mMTOB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Order and Chaos card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw these cards on the Internet and quickly became curious: How in the world do they work?&#xA;Do you pick one of them to play and then discard the card, or can you play both? How does their color and mana-cost duality function with cards that depend on them? When were these cards added to MTG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-09T01:17:26.450" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T21:45:16.763" Title="How do split cards work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5204" CreationDate="2011-10-29T19:42:55.843" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: The answers given here were correct at the time they were written, rules changes have since made parts of them incorrect.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They work as if they only had one of the sides attributes while on the Stack, and as if they had both sides' qualities in every other zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an effect is asking for a particular characteristic, it gets two answers. For example, Infernal Genesis asks you to reveal the top card of your library and add a number of 1/1 tokens to the battlefield based on the converted mana cost of the revealed card, if you revealed Hit//Run you would get 8 tokens, because the converted mana cost of the card would have two answers 3 and 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an effect is performing a comparison, it only gets one answer. If either side would return a Yes answer when performing the comparison, then you would get a single Yes. For example, if you used Sunforger to search your library for a card that was red or white and had a converted mana cost of 4 or less, you could search out Wax/Wane (because for one of the sides, you would get a yes - Wane is white, and has a CMC of 4 or less) and still cast the Green side (Wax) of the card (only the search is restricted by color and CMC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When casting a split card, you choose a side and proceed to do the normal process for casting a spell. Announce the spell, choose targets, pay costs, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Split Card type was added to MtG first in Invasion Block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.2. In every zone except the stack, split cards have two sets of characteristics and two converted mana costs. As long as a split card is a spell on the stack, only the characteristics of the half being cast exist. The other half’s characteristics are treated as though they didn’t exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.2a If a player casts a split card, that player chooses which half of that split card he or she is casting before putting it onto the stack. Only the half that is being cast is considered to be put onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As of Amonkhet, these cards no longer give separate answers for characteristics - they give one answer that combines the characteristics of both halves. Some of this makes no difference, as explained here Infernal Genesis will still give 8 tokens for Hit//Run because it now gets one answer, 8, instead of two answers 3 and 5. Other times the difference matters, Isochron Scepter can no longer imprint &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107373&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bound // Determined&lt;/a&gt; because the card no longer returns 5 and 2 for CMC, it returns just 7.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-02T16:08:21.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5203" CreationDate="2011-10-29T20:19:35.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards with the sole purpose of generic card-drawing to increase card advantage work best in control decks. The strategy of control decks is to draw out the game, preventing and eliminating threats, and eventually, when the board is &lt;em&gt;under control&lt;/em&gt;, play the win condition. In order to always have a response to a problem, a control deck must maintain a distinct card advantage through a combination of reusable/mass removals and efficient/repeatable card drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combo decks often feature card &lt;em&gt;searching&lt;/em&gt;, which is similar to card drawing, except with graveyard manipulation and/or library searching to quickly find the cards necessary for the combo. Generic card drawing from the top of the deck is usually not what a combo deck needs, except of course if it's ALL the cards through an infinity combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aggressive beatdown decks rarely rely on card drawing. Instead they use their available mana to bring highly efficient creature threats into play and aim to end the game as quickly as possible, turning card advantage into speed and killing power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-10-29T20:24:37.243" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T20:24:37.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5203" CreationDate="2011-10-29T20:39:21.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combo decks usually rely on interactions between 2 or more cards to get something that is greater than the sum of its parts. Tutors are usually supperior to straight card draw when trying to pull off a combo, because they put the exact card you need, instead of drawing many cards to find that 1 of 4 in 50+ cards. That doesn't mean that you don't usually see card draw in combo decks. Combo decks will usually feature quick mana generation, card draw, and tutors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for which is better, Scry or card draw, it depends on the particular card and deck. In general though, drawing cards is better than Scrying the same amount of cards. Even if Ancestral Recall were a sorcery, everyone would play it over Preordain since Ancestral Recall actually draws 3 cards to your hand (net +2 cards), and Preordain only replaces itself and lets you filter 2 other cards to the bottom of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All decks could likely benefit from card draw. You have to compare the individual costs and effects of the scrying card versus the card drawing card to know which is better. Deck type probably has little bearing on how effective card draw will be in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-10-29T20:39:21.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4877" CreationDate="2011-10-29T20:54:59.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The publisher's representative (Ryan Metzler) states in this thread that trashing a disease with a trader is an illegal move:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/622651/village-trader-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/622651/village-trader-question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of it sort of falls apart because he missed that they were erroneously talking about gold values, not cost, but it's the closest thing to an official answer I could find that you can't trash a card with no-cost to the Trader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, clearly stated here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/7763776#7763776&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/7763776#7763776&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T09:54:22.927" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T09:54:22.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5203" CreationDate="2011-10-29T20:58:14.567" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards in hand are options. Having more cards in hand gives you &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; options. Having the right cards in hand gives you &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card filtering (of which &lt;em&gt;scry&lt;/em&gt; cards are a subset) is good any time you want a specific card. Your intuition about combo decks is correct, but it doesn't stop there. Consider a control deck that uses a mixture of counterspells, spot removal, and board wipes, for instance: if your opponent's about to burn you out, you need a counter; if your opponent dropped a Titan or a planeswalker you'll want spot removal ASAP (and it has to be the right kind, too); if your opponent has two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220210&quot;&gt;Dungrove Elders&lt;/a&gt; or an army of Spirit tokens beating you down you'll want that sweeper. Card filtering makes it easier to have all of those when you need them; this is especially valuable with very specific hosers you keep in your sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card draw implicitly has all the same benefits as card filtering (since you're likewise digging faster through your deck) but also gives you &lt;em&gt;card advantage&lt;/em&gt;. Card advantage almost always matters. Any time you're actually going to get to play most of your hand before the game ends, card advantage will make a difference; if you're playing against, say, a very fast red deck that just throws its resources away to try to kill you as quickly as possible, then the loss of tempo from casting a card-draw spell might not be worth the benefit of extra cards in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a third class of cards it's worth thinking about in the same discussion: cards that search your whole deck, also known as &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=60&quot;&gt;tutors&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Card-filtering cards conceptually occupy a middle ground between pure card draw and tutors; they're appealing because many decks have several cards which can acceptably answer a problem, and being able to dig up an acceptable card cheaply and quickly is often regarded as more valuable than finding just the right card at too high a cost or a turn too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main price of all these advantages is tempo. Any time you're spending a turn's mana on something that doesn't immediately affect the board state, you're potentially losing ground to your opponent(s). Hand-sculpting is all about giving up something now to get a better hand for next turn. The decks that use it best are either those that can devalue tempo (using control techniques) or those that are willing to throw everything away to improve their next turn. That said, &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; time a duel comes down to attrition of cards in hand, card draw can power you through a finish -- &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; deck wants card draw as long as it can afford to pay the price (which is why, in its day, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247201&quot;&gt;Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt; was all over aggro decks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When weighing the value of different get-more-cards cards, pay attention to spell types and casting costs. Reactive decks are much better off with Instant-speed card draw/filtering, because being able to play your hand-sculpting cards on your opponent's end step allows you to keep mana open for responses during your opponent's turn. You also want spells that fit nicely into your mana curve -- ideally, ones you can cast &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you'd be casting whatever it is you'd usually dig for, so they're not slowing you down. It's reasonable to run a few big splashy high-cost card draw cards to help you lock up the late game (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214063&quot;&gt;Consecrated Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221556&quot;&gt;Blue Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt;, for instance), but card filtering is generally best on little cards you can use early to find what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing you should be on the lookout for is hand-sculpting cards with convenient side-effects. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226758&quot;&gt;Forbidden Alchemy&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, dumps three cards into your graveyard -- to some decks, that's like three extra cards in hand. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2497&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; is a powerhouse in any Legacy deck that plays blue, but also powers up cards that interact with the top card of your library, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=121159&quot;&gt;Counterbalance&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226749&quot;&gt;Delver of Secrets&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205019&quot;&gt;Preordain&lt;/a&gt; not only allowed &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197891&quot;&gt;Pyromancer Ascension&lt;/a&gt; decks to search for cards to trigger their combo but also served as a worthwhile trigger itself. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227547&quot;&gt;Tezzeret's Gambit&lt;/a&gt; is choice card draw for decks obsessed with +1/+1 counters, poison counters, or planeswalker loyalty counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-10-30T12:12:47.507" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T12:12:47.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5214" CreationDate="2011-10-30T17:42:55.230" Score="20" ViewCount="93986" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many creatures should the &lt;strong&gt;average, typical&lt;/strong&gt; draft deck contain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this depends on a multitude of factors, including the kinds of creatures in your deck, the kinds of non-creatures you have available, and the overall composition of the block you're drafting. Nonetheless, what's a good baseline for the number of creatures in a draft deck? And how should I decide if I need to run more or fewer creatures than the baseline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-10-30T23:03:43.650" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:33:03.850" Title="How many creatures should be in a draft deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2011-10-30T18:17:28.527" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creatures are what makes you win and what makes you lose games in Limited. Therefore I would consider the baseline types of spells for Limited not only creatures, but creatures + creature removals. Creatures with evasion are powerful in Limited, so sometimes the only solution to a sticky situation is a targeted removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, assuming a 23-17 distribution, you want a total of 23 creatures and creature removals as the baseline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you start replacing your worst creatures with, in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-creature bombs (such as equipments, token generators), &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct Damage (might already count as removal depending on card and environment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and finally, if you still have room, a little utility, such as mana fixing/acceleration, card drawing/searching, graveyard recycling, or cheap cantrips for thinning the deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably shouldn't go below ca. 15 creatures + removals in most cases. There is nothing worse than sitting on a hand and battlefield full of utility and equipments and getting beaten to death by a 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-10-30T18:23:52.760" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T18:23:52.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4703" CreationDate="2011-10-30T19:44:08.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assumption makes sense to me.  The action lets you move to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; rather than an &lt;em&gt;adjacent&lt;/em&gt; position, but otherwise follows all of the usual rules for movement.  That's certainly how we play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The only viable alternative rule to shuffle each marine moved pass one space down the formation, until the vacated space is filled, but that would cause a lot more movement of marines than the rules to this game usually intend.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T19:44:08.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2011-10-30T21:11:37.573" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, my draft decks tend to aim for 16-17, 6-7 other spells, and 17 lands.  Generally, if you end up with 19-20+ creatures your deck is going to be aggressive but insufficiently versatile.  If you end up with 11 or fewer creatures your deck may have lots of &quot;answers&quot; but a shortage of ways to actually win the game.  As ever, striking a balance is key.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with having 12 creatures or something if your deck is packed with sweet removal: take a red/black deck for instance; the creature quality in these colours tends to be low, but you make up for it in the strength of the removal cards.  Obviously it'd be daft to be adding bad creatures to a deck to &quot;make up the numbers&quot; when you have excellent removal at your disposal: being able to take out one of the opponent's best creatures is almost as good as playing a creature of your own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make a note of cards in your pool which aren't creatures but basically count as creature cards.  Mind Control is one of the very best cards in the latest Core Set because not only does it remove an opponent's creature, it gives you one as well!  And most sets have an instant or sorcery that generates token creatures these days.  If you draft a lot on Magic Online where it keeps a running total of creatures for you, you'll be familiar with having to take that figure with a pinch of salt - because often it lies!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, 16-17 creatures or equivalent is definitely &quot;average and typical&quot;.  If you're often drastically over- or undershooting that baseline, then (unless you've created some kind of insanely broken rogue decks that crush all comers 3-0) I'd definitely try to steer closer to the 40% creatures mark and see if that works out better for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-10-30T21:11:37.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5217" CreationDate="2011-10-31T06:12:04.050" Score="10" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a relative newcomer to Go and more interested in the programming aspects of designing a Go Engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt; Do Go engines use a systematic list of Endgame positions with known wins, the way chess engines do? And do professional-level Go players memorize a list of endgame positions as part of their training?  &lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some online digging turned up &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yose&quot;&gt; this Wikipedia article &lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=go%20endgames&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CCMQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fciteseerx.ist.psu.edu%2Fviewdoc%2Fdownload%3Fdoi%3D10.1.1.131.6095%26rep%3Drep1%26type%3Dpdf&amp;amp;ei=XTquTs2GNOmQsALQqbnoDg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNG-6ZLYsoKuNZKsXfzA8rV6uqxblg&amp;amp;sig2=JnSXot_no969gMsTO4vDTQ&quot;&gt; computer science paper &lt;/a&gt; suggesting that Solving Go Endgames by computer is really hard problem, guaranteed to take up plenty of time. Perhaps that's the reason why Go endgame tablebases don't exist / aren't widely used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1135" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T14:13:53.583" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T08:37:46.027" Title="Do we have Go endgame tablebases, just like Chess?" Tags="|go|end-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5215" CreationDate="2011-10-31T10:08:37.480" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know much more about Go than chess, so I don't know how accurate my guesses about chess endgames will be, but... I think chess tends to be at its simplest in the endgame (like Go), and there is little information in the endgame about how the rest of the game progressed (unlike Go). And, there are  algorithms for winning (in some cases) that generalize to a large number of positions. E.g., if white has a Queen and a King, and black only has a King, unless the Q is about to be captured white will win, regardless of position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Go, the endgame is also the simplest part of the game, in that it is the only part of the game in which the score and the value of each move can be calculated very precisely, however position is everything, and you will never see two games end with the same board position. In chess, you can generalize many positions to what pieces remain, but in Go the only generalization is the score count and the number of points still remaining to be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be utterly impractical to rely on whole-board level tables in Go, however many small areas of the board will fit common patterns, which are memorized by Go players and programmed into computers alike. A medium-level example would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BentFourInTheCornerIsDead&quot;&gt;bent four in the corner is dead&lt;/a&gt;, but you'll see that this relatively common position is not at all obvious to a beginner and comes with several caveats (no un-removable ko-threats, surrounding group must be alive with 2 eyes), and while relatively common, it is somewhat of a special case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like knowing where to play to kill (or save!) &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BulkyFive&quot;&gt;bulky five&lt;/a&gt; (and many many other shapes) should be automatic for a human or computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Programming a computer to play good &lt;em&gt;yose&lt;/em&gt; is a very hard problem, but is one of the few aspects of Go at which computers can beat professional Go players, as it is all calculation and, while difficult, the theory is well-understood. To do it effectively the program must be able to estimate the current score, identify the moves left on the board that are worth points, and sort them in order of worth---not trivial. &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?path=Endgame&amp;amp;page=BasicEndgameTheory&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; might be a good place to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: There is a place for systematic lists of positions in Go programs, but they won't be useful for whole-board positions. The program needs to be able to evaluate the life/death status of every group on the board, and it is in these one or two group positions that lists will be most useful---and they'll be valuable throughout the game. In trying to attack opponent's groups, your program's goal won't be just to recognize shapes from the list, but rather to force the opponent into shapes that it knows are &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?KillingShapes&quot;&gt;dead&lt;/a&gt;, while maintaining &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BasicLivingEyeShapes&quot;&gt;live shapes&lt;/a&gt; itself. See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?CommonCornerShapes&quot;&gt;Common Corner Shapes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In writing a Go program, I would give you the same advice as I would a person learning Go: start on a small board, even as small as 5x5 until you have the rules down. Move up to 7x7, and then stay with 9x9 for a long time before you even think of trying 13x13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T22:53:58.483" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T22:53:58.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5215" CreationDate="2011-10-31T13:07:36.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no whole-board endgame databases because there are too many possible permutations in the end. Such an approach could not be handled with state-of-the-art computer systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that endgame databases for confined, local situations do make sense and can be applied really well, the further the endgame has progressed. After you have analyzed, what's the result of each confined, local situation, you can calculate the best way to deal with them by finding the right order of moves. Of course it is not that easy to find a perfect solution, because you have to time &quot;free&quot; sente moves that do destroy your own ko-threats and so on, but AI endgame in Go is pretty good compared to midgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand the concept of the endgame, common patterns, the importance of sente/gote and so on, I can recommend the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?TheEndgameTheBook&quot;&gt;The Endgame&lt;/a&gt;, if you are interested in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T13:07:36.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3723" CreationDate="2011-10-31T18:33:59.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A responder uses Stayman (two clubs) to imply a four card major suit and 9-11 points. Then there is the question of what should the responder do with a five card major? And there is another question of whether it is a strong bid (9-11 points) or a weak one (6-8). Different systems treat two of a major differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A transfer forces the opener to bid the responder's suit: 1NT, two diamonds, two hearts. Or 1NT, two hearts, two spades. Then the responder has the option of passing at the two level with the weaker hand, or raising to game with the stronger one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some bidding systems, the opener also has choices. If s/he has FOUR of the major, then opener can raise to THREE of the &quot;transferred&quot; suit. This invites a game bid by responder with only 7-8 points, because 23 points and nine trumps can make game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some openers will go to 2NT with xx in the &quot;transferred suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T18:33:59.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3687" CreationDate="2011-10-31T19:20:43.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any deception by use of a bid or card played is legal. Any intentional (meaning &quot;on purpose&quot;) deception by your tempo manner or countenance is not ethical. Bridge is not poker. It is best to be emotionally detached in your countenance and keep your tempo even.  Do not pause to think unless there is something to think about. Do not show pleasure or displeasure at your partners or opponents plays or bids. This is very difficult to do. Try to control your tempo and emotions. If you lose control, at the very least your pauses and emotions should be genuine not contrived. All emotions, mannerisms, and variations in tempo and what they imply are unauthorized information to your partner.  An ethical partner will not only ignore these but should bend over backwards to make it clear to opponents that it did not influence his play.  He will generally choose an option not cued by such unauthorized information if he has reasonable choices between continuations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Bid that grossly misrepresents the strength or distribution of suits you hold is called a &lt;strong&gt;psych&lt;/strong&gt;.  While use of these bids are technically legal and they do occasionally happen, psychs are strongly discouraged.  This is because the use of such bids usually create a pattern which is more familiar to your partner than your opponents creating a sort of secret agreement.  All agreements should be available to your opponents and it is not ethical to play systems your opponents do not understand without full disclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1962" LastEditorUserId="1962" LastEditDate="2011-10-31T20:09:04.330" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T20:09:04.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5188" CreationDate="2011-10-31T19:45:09.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks like one of those tantrums that happen when both partners want to control the hand.  The argument gets out of hand. Both partners think they know what is best and fail to yield until it is way to late.  I wonder if south thought &quot;take that then&quot; when she placed the last pass on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hate to admit it but I've been there done that.  Please never again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it is possible that south thought the the redoubles showed hearts but i strongly doubt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1962" LastActivityDate="2011-10-31T19:45:09.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7121" CreationDate="2011-10-31T22:20:59.100" Score="5" ViewCount="2001" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing against an Imperial Guard player at 1500 pts. He has ~ 7 lascannon squads + an assault cannon squad. He just sits there and shoots at me while I try to advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since switched away from anything coming from reserve since my army would be eaten piece by piece. Instead I am going for a lot of troops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Rhino (with Storm bolter) + 10-man Tactical squad (heavy bolter, flamer), sergeant has storm bolter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-man Scout squad (all with combat blades)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10-man Assault squad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-man Devastator Squad (3 lascannon, 1 heavy bolter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Librarian in Terminator Armour (Avenger, Force Dome) + 5 Shooting Terminators&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dreadnought with Multi-melta&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dreadnought with Assault Cannon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most Imperial Guard troops have 5+ armour, any hit I make with the storm bolter or heavy bolter means death. Since each Rhino has a sergeant and a flamer guy, I can move 6&quot; and still fire 4 shots (+template if I survive long enough). Is this a viable tactic to help my main force get into close combat action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-04T05:13:52.303" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T19:47:08.500" Title="Are heavy bolters and storm bolters a viable anti-Imperial Guard option?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5226" CreationDate="2011-11-01T09:48:31.727" Score="16" ViewCount="19998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the Battlestar Galactica board game and I absolutely love it. I'm thinking of getting one of the expansions for it but I'm torn between the &lt;em&gt;Exodus&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Pegasus&lt;/em&gt; expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do these expansions change the game? and from people who have played both which do you think is a better expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that since this question was written the &lt;em&gt;Daybreak&lt;/em&gt; expansion has been added too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="1190" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T11:52:09.963" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:52:09.963" Title="Which expansion to get for BSG Board game?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5234" CreationDate="2011-11-01T09:53:16.620" Score="2" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 11 across 12 down Gomoku board with the following conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player must make a move within 3 spaces of an opponent's piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player can't make a move that player loses.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to force the above, given the conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1966" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T00:07:57.093" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T00:07:57.093" Title="Gomoku, is it possible to not be able to make a legal move?" Tags="|gomoku|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5223" CreationDate="2011-11-01T10:42:20.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played both, and each one adds a lot to te game. The first thing they each add is time. they also each add new characters and new a new end game condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favorite version of BSG is playing with both expansions using the end game condition of Exodus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pegasus Expansion adds a second Battlestar ship with 4 extra rooms. These tend to give great power to the human players. They also act as extra damage tokens. My favorite aspect of Pegasus is the treachery cards, which are brown cards that are beneficial for cylons hidden and revealed. The end game of this expansion is New Caprica, which is a separate board and gives a chance for the Cylons to destroy civilian ships before the game ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exodus adds a few more complex additions: cylong fleet board, allies, trauma tokens, and a big battle as an ending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main complaint of exodus people give is a player-elimination mechanic. I do not mind this, however, since it is a turn or two before the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cylon Fleet board is the reason I love playing with Exodus. This edition makes it important to have pilots. The fleet board keeps a steady stream of attackers coming instead of using the fleet setup cards in the crisis deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansion also allows you to remove civilian ships if you're a pilot, however this is the only way to get them off the board now. Jumping no longer doess. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T10:42:20.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5223" CreationDate="2011-11-01T11:42:22.147" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for both variants are available at FFG's site, so you can read them for the full details.  Both expansions contain an &quot;alternate ending&quot; which can replace the Kobol objective, kicking in when the fleet jumps to distance 7. Both have new character and skill cards.  Both expansions include the possibility that characters will be &lt;em&gt;executed&lt;/em&gt;, not just brigged - it's a bigger feature in Pegasus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary first, then discussion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pegasus&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, this expansion adds a lot of &quot;tweaks&quot; to the gameplay; once you've got it, you'll probably use most of the new rules every game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New characters:&lt;/strong&gt; Admiral Cain, Ellen Tigh, Kat, Dee.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New cards:&lt;/strong&gt; Lots of new and interesting crises, and most of the new skill cards are in this set.  There are an additional 1,2,3,4, and 5 card for each skill deck, with some useful new powers.  Compensating for this is the new &quot;Treachery&quot; skill, which only goes from 1-3 but is always negative, and has special text only usable by cylons.  Unfortunately it's not safe to discard either, as some booby-trap Treachery cards can hurt the humans if you do...  &lt;em&gt;Anyone&lt;/em&gt; drawing treachery is good news for the cylons.  (And some new crises can force you to draw treachery.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Major new rule: Pegasus.&lt;/strong&gt;  The humans get an extra battlestar board with four new locations.  This gives the humans more effective guns against raider swarms, and another way to hurry up jumps.  It also adds the lethal &quot;airlock&quot; location - don't want to try to brig that suspect?  Just kill them!  Of course, a good cylon player can con people into executing other humans...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This variant makes &quot;destroy Galactica due to damage&quot; cylon win nearly impossible, because the humans can soak 4 extra hits on Pegasus if need be.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minor variant: Cylon Leaders:&lt;/strong&gt; Cavil, Leoben, Caprica Six.  These are playable characters, replacing one cylon loyalty card.  Effectively, they work like revealed cylons from the start, but can &quot;infiltrate&quot; and rejoin Galactica, playing cards as human crew.  They draw an &quot;agenda&quot; describing which team they have to support to win, but it also has a limitation - they mustn't win by too much.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The idea was to replace the uncertainty of &quot;I don't know who's a cylon&quot; with &quot;I don't know which side the cylon is on&quot;.  In practice implementation isn't perfect, and this variant reduces the uncertainty.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variant ending: New Caprica.&lt;/strong&gt;  Instead of ending after a jump from distance 8, at distance 7 the fleet lands on a &quot;New Caprica&quot; board and is occupied.  They then have to take actions to release the civilian ships from lockup while waiting for Galactica to jump back, then defend them while evacuating.  Crises are drawn from a new deck of 'during the occupation' crises.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This definitely favours the cylons, as it's harder than just making one extra fleet jump.  If the change from 8 to 7 even saved you one.  However, it's hardest if fleet attacks have been light, because there's more civilian ships left to protect, so it evens out a bit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Exodus&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fewer tweaks to the game, but several major new variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New characters:&lt;/strong&gt; Sam Anders, Tory, Gaeta, Cally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New skill cards:&lt;/strong&gt; Some 0 cards for each deck, which have some other effect on the skill check when played.  (e.g. the 0 Tactics causes two extra Destiny cards to be played in.)  One 6 card for each deck, with special text so good you want to play it for that instead of the 6. (For example, Engineering 6 can be used to build a new nuke.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New crisis cards:&lt;/strong&gt; A lot of interesting crises that play off the new rules.  There are no new fleet attacks, so if you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; play the Cylon Fleet variant, you'll be sharply reducing the proportion of fleet attacks in the deck if you use them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Major variant: Cylon Fleet.&lt;/strong&gt;  There are no fleet attacks.  Instead, cylons build up forces on their own fleet board with it's own jump track.  When the cylons jump, they arrive en masse on the main board.  When the fleet jumps, surviving cylons move back to their board to build up for next time, but civilian ships are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; removed.  They can be escorted off by vipers instead, but that uses up precious actions.  Humans get an extra title, CAG, which helps command unmanned fighters, as well as some better Vipers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This evens out the randomness of fleet attacks, but with competent cylons can make the buildup of raiders harder to deal with in the endgame... by the end most of the civilian fleet could be on the board.  Works better when used in conjunction with the Pegasus; otherwise the humans can be a touch outgunned.  You will &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; your nukes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Variant ending: Ionian Nebula.&lt;/strong&gt;  This changes the game by making much more use of the cast of characters.  As well as the characters in play, you have random extra characters all over the ship, and a limited supply of &quot;Trauma&quot; tokens used to decide whether they do good or bad things when encountered.  At distance 7 you enter the Nebula and there's an extra round of personal crises (an extra random dilemma to face) and possibly executions, depending on how well you've done at getting rid of your 'bad' counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(So this variant emphasizes character interaction more, and gives you a whole new set of possible suspicious behaviours to indulge in.  Properly managed by humans it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; result in a lot of extra fleet bonuses... but needn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Minor variants: Conflicted Loyalties / Final Five.&lt;/strong&gt;  Characters have additional personal goals that they have to accomplish to win.  Final Five Cylons, if used, also go in the &quot;Not a Cylon&quot; loyalty slots - they count as being on the human side and work like humans, but they make it much less safe to use 'peek at loyalty card' abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This variant makes life &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; harder for the humans, as they're wasting resources and suspicion dealing with extra side issues.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Decision Notes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's plenty to like in both sets. Which is &quot;better&quot; depends a bit on what you like most about Galactica, and especially on what you like &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you like the treachery/uncertainty, but play 4 or 6 player and think the weak &quot;Cylon sympathiser&quot; mechanic is a major flaw, get Pegasus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you dislike the random distribution of fleet attacks, and want to avoid games where there are very few or very many, get Exodus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you think the series cast should appear more, get Exodus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't play often, you'll get more out of Pegasus, as Exodus has fewer 'every game' rules changes and more major variants.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T11:42:22.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4980" CreationDate="2011-11-01T13:27:44.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your issue is that you tend to play &quot;balanced&quot; games. That seems to serve you well on defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your particular issue, you might want to seek out &quot;unbalanced&quot; games. Examples would include situations where you sacrifice a piece for two or three pawns plus a positional advantage, or the &quot;exchange&quot; for one or two pawns. Or play more gambits, where you sacrifice a pawn for positional advantage. Even positions where one player had an extra pawn on one side of the board, and the other player an extra pawn on the other side might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T13:27:44.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5228" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:56:39.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;story-telling&quot; game (3-6 players, 30 minutes) where the cards are oversized and have beautiful illustrations of fairy-tale style scenes. Play involves one player coming up with a description, all players submitting their best-matching illustration, and then voting for which picture fits best. Dixit won the Spiel des Jahres award in 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:21:32.143" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:21:32.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5229" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-01T16:56:39.193" Score="0" Body="A &quot;story-telling game&quot; (3-6 players, 30 minutes) where players create descriptions and then pick provided illustrations that best match them." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T17:36:57.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T17:36:57.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2011-11-01T17:25:47.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Online Go Servers:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;A much &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoServers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more detailed list&lt;/a&gt; is available, but here is a brief overview of 3 popular Go servers with good English support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KGS&lt;/a&gt;, very popular, has players from all over the world, accessible on computers (anything with Java) or through an Android app (iOS not available nor likely to be anytime soon).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pandanet-igs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Internet Go Server (IGS)&lt;/a&gt;, very popular, lots of clients for all sorts of OS-es, including iOS and Android. Best for English or Japanese.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragongoserver.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dragon Go Server (DGS)&lt;/a&gt;, popular turn-based server. Lots of languages and clients supported (including iOS and Android). Games are timed, but usually start with several months on the clock for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T17:25:47.800" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-01T17:25:47.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5231" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-01T17:33:08.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 5-player trick-taking card game notable for it's large, static trump suit and the bidding player unknown to the other players(*), resulting in mafia-like suspicion among the opposition players. Somewhat similar to the 3-player game skat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) There are variations to the game regarding partner selection. Usually the partner is picked via a named-Ace, alternatively the partner holds the JD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2322" LastEditorUserId="2322" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T03:57:08.937" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T03:57:08.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5232" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-01T17:33:08.290" Score="0" Body="A 5-player trick-taking card game notable for it's large, static trump suit and the bidding player having a partner assigned randomly (whoever holds the Jack of Hearts), resulting in mafia-like suspicion among the opposition players. Somewhat similar to the 3-player game skat." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-11-01T17:44:24.807" LastActivityDate="2011-11-01T17:44:24.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5252" CreationDate="2011-11-02T05:12:15.943" Score="3" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out how to resolve &quot;Flute of the Outer Gods&quot; and &quot;Bind Monster&quot;.&#xA;The Flute removes a monster after rolling. The Bind Monster does it at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can either item/spell be used mid-adventure?  When the monster is removed, does it reveal the task underneath that now must be completed? Is this different for the two cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the flute, does defeating the monster count as a success and allow a re-roll without assigning any dice nor losing a die (normal success)? Can you still complete a task on this die roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T05:55:12.110" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T15:23:38.917" Title="In Elder Sign how does removing a monster via a card effect work?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5224" CreationDate="2011-11-02T12:10:32.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible for such a condition to happen, though I'm not sure what you mean by &quot;force.&quot; It is possible because it is possible to create a board-state in which neither player has won the game, but the entire board is filled. A simple example of such a state is the following: imagine a filled 11x12 which follows the pattern:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;WWBBWWBBWWBB&#xA;&#xA;BBWWBBWWBBWW&#xA;&#xA;WWBBWWBBWWBB&#xA;&#xA;BBWWBBWWBBWW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, neither player has won the game, and since white and black each have an equal number of stones on the board, it is not impossible to reach such a board state. I have therefore shown that it is possible to reach a board-state in which one player cannot make a legal move. You can also show this for non-full boards by applying the rule of three and three and the rule of four and four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-11-02T18:17:37.030" LastActivityDate="2011-11-02T18:17:37.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="620" CreationDate="2011-11-02T13:08:40.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An iPad/iPhone-version is coming this winter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ipadboardgames.org/2011/schedule-of-upcoming-games/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ipadboardgames.org/2011/schedule-of-upcoming-games/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iOS app is out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/agricola/id561521557?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/agricola/id561521557?mt=8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1970" LastEditorUserId="288" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T19:23:01.523" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T19:23:01.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5236" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-11-02T13:42:46.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTG Drafting is a variant of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'magic-the-gathering'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt; when a group of people take 3 booster packs and pick one card at a time to build a 40 card deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:53:01.267" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:53:01.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5237" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-02T13:42:46.327" Score="0" Body="MTG Drafting is when a group of people take a number of booster packs and pick one card at a time to build a 40 card deck." OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:48:58.983" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:48:58.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-03T00:35:36.550" Score="1" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/114/take-back-turns-forgotten-privileges&quot;&gt;Take Back Turns / Forgotten Privileges&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently played and during my final turn, I placed five roads to reclaim the Longest Road. However, I quickly realized that I could place two roads and a settlement elsewhere which would break up the Longest Road, let me reclaim Longest Road, and give me the additional one point for the settlement that I needed for victory. So - I rerouted two of my roads, took back three brick and three lumber from the bank, and made a settlement. 10 points - victory. Was this legit, or is a road laid a road played? I assume from my guilt that it is not legit, but wanted to check with the pros. I didn't pass the dice and then realize my mistake. This was all pretty immediate. Had I only done it to begin with, there wouldn't be the guilt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1974" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T16:23:35.987" Title="Settlers of Catan - turn completion" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2011-11-03T12:33:49.307" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5242" CreationDate="2011-11-03T02:38:03.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its best to determine how this sort of thing is to be handled among your gaming group.  The rule that I use is that it's okay to rewind state as long as the rewind is short enough that everyone has good confidence that it was done correctly (unanimously).  If any random event has occurred (e.g. a die roll), and I want to 'go back' before the role, I ask if it's okay.  Usually, as long as its clear that the die roll would not have affected the decision before the roll this is allowed.  In Catan, because of the robber, this is likely not true, so my group wouldn't allow it in Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some other viewpoints, consider this discussion on BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/384443/acceptableunacceptable-behavior-requesting-a-rew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Acceptable/Unacceptable Behavior Requesting a Rewind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T02:38:03.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5242" CreationDate="2011-11-03T04:56:05.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a question that can be decided by the rules of the game: it depends on the &quot;meta-rules&quot; that your group decides. This is something you need to discuss before starting the game itself; some options are discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/114/30&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T04:56:05.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5242" CreationDate="2011-11-03T08:52:49.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to take a pragmatic view of taking moves back, in casual gaming: did you gain any immoral extra information between the initial move and the improved move?  If you play a move in chess and your then opponent reaches for the piece that will take your queen, it's obviously extremely dodgy to ask for a takeback...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your own situation, if you genuinely were just thinking through your move and realised the better one while going through the motions of playing the first one, I wouldn't have a problem with the takeback in such an situation.  That's far better than forcing players to sit there in a state of silent &quot;analysis paralysis&quot; for 5 minutes each time, scared to start playing a move until they are absolutely sure that no better move exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; have gained information in this scenario.  When you started playing out your roads, did another player breathe a sigh of relief or even just relax in their chair?  If they did, and you noticed this, then your takeback is much less conscionable.  That's why in tournament situations, once you start playing a move, that's it.  In a casual setting it's a question of your own sense of honour.  But hopefully you are good friends in your gaming group and all trust each other!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T08:52:49.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5162" CreationDate="2011-11-03T14:24:33.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Ticket to Ride, as cards are turned in I distribute them across up to six stacks, trying to not place cards on top of like cards (orange does not go on top of orange). Sometimes a card gets tucked to the bottom of a stack. When it comes time to shuffle, the stacks get shuffled together pair by pair (stack 1 with 2, then 3 with 4, etc.), ultimately combining things. It seems to make things more random than otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For Pandemic, there's often very few cards, so things can go bad very fast and it may just seem like it's not random.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess my point (and others') is, doing some kinf of pre-shuffling the cards during play as cards are discarded can help with randomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2011-11-03T14:24:33.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5253" CreationDate="2011-11-03T16:23:06.493" Score="12" ViewCount="24003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought &lt;em&gt;Elder Sign: Omens&lt;/em&gt; for my iPhone, and I really like it, but it seems to be VERY difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have some good strategies on how to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is a good team to start with for a beginning player?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When should I use my cards? Should I use them as soon as I get them? Hold off a bit?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which adventures should I try to defeat first? Which should I avoid until I absolutely have to beat them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it even possible to win this game? Or is the point of the game the impending doom of the players?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elder Sign: Omens is based off the board game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/100423/elder-sign&quot;&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T21:05:36.453" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T21:47:02.817" Title="What are some good strategies for Elder Sign: Omens?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5249" CreationDate="2011-11-04T18:20:11.173" Score="5" ViewCount="10511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in Kamigawa Block, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gifts%20Ungiven&quot;&gt;Gifts Ungiven&lt;/a&gt; was a very popular card, showing up in a good percentage of blue decks.  I don't understand why it's considered useful.  What made this card so popular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T14:38:34.017" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T14:39:53.890" Title="Why was Gifts Ungiven so popular?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5248" CreationDate="2011-11-04T19:15:46.113" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry, you don't think that a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diabolic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Diabolic Tutor&lt;/a&gt; in blue (for the same cost) that tutors two cards instead of one (giving you card advantage), can be cast at instant speed (on your opponents turn with untapped mana that's a counterspell threat), &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; puts two cards in your graveyard is useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only drawback is that the opponent gets to choose which two cards you tutor out of four possibilities. If they are all four good, useable cards, (which they naturally should be if you have crafted a good deck) this is hardly a drawback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many decks ran this with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psychatog&quot;&gt;Psychatog&lt;/a&gt;, as those two cards in the graveyard and those two cards in your hand, if nothing else, help power the 'tog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen other decks run this with &amp;quot;return creature card from graveyard&amp;quot; spells. Gifts up two of these spells and two big beaters. What does the opponent do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/cokblock/10253_The_Gifts_Ungiven_Matchup_Guide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;I found this article&lt;/a&gt; on Star City Games showing the sort of broken things you could do with Gifts in Kamigawa block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Careful%20Consideration&quot;&gt;Careful Consideration&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target player draws four cards, then discards three cards. If you cast this spell during your main phase, instead that player draws four cards, then discards two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It costs the same (one blue mana instead of one colourless), doesn't let you choose which four cards to draw, and you only get to discard two cards if you cast it in your main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gifts Ungiven is a very undercosted powerful card with the potential to be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T14:39:53.890" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T14:39:53.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5248" CreationDate="2011-11-04T21:07:05.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to ghoppe's answer: Over the past years, MtG has become a very mature game. In particular, library and graveyard manipulation have become very popular, getting a lot of love by the designers, and many mechanics as well as cards now involve these zones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering this, Gifts Ungiven is a very powerful card that, if you design your deck right, actually gives you up to four cards of your choice, two of them into your hand, and three (including Gifts) into your graveyard. Since it's an instant, you can play it at the end of your opponent's turn, which further increases its versatility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-11-04T21:07:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2011-11-05T15:16:46.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if you hare having trouble winning any rooms I would recommend reviewing the rules.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Don't forget that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can hold one die after a failure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special items let you have more dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clues let you re-roll any number of dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Characters have special abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Investigation requirements can be made out of a few dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't hoard items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have items, try an easy room to get items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do have items go for a hard room to gain elder signs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take special successes before investigation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not remove many dice to complete an investigation, unless you are finishing a room &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlock dice as soon as you can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found the digital version to be much harder.  The board game tends to add 1 or 0 doom tokens every midnight.  In the digital version I have gained 3 in one turn.  There are other differences, some making the game easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T22:58:30.830" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T22:58:30.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5233" CreationDate="2011-11-05T15:23:38.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coincidentally ti me asking, Elder Sign Omens just came out, and i was able to find out how some of these rules function in the digital version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a disclaimer Omen rules are not identical in some ways to the paper board game. This particularly applies to when spell cards are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can either item/spell be used mid-adventure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes they can be used at any roll&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the monster is removed, does it reveal the task underneath that&#xA;  now must be completed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The task below a defeated monster does not have to be completed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When using the flute, does defeating the monster count as a success&#xA;  and allow a re-roll without assigning any dice nor losing a die&#xA;  (normal success)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No the monster is removed outside of die rolling.  You must still place dice on one of the tasks, or resolve a failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2011-11-05T15:23:38.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2011-11-05T17:49:04.820" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I went ahead and asked the creators of &lt;em&gt;Elder Sign: Omens&lt;/em&gt; and here's some responses from them and other members of their message board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are easier/less difficult adventures. Sure, you are still at the whim of the dice, but target some of the easier ones - specifically with the investigation tokens. These are easier to roll and succeed at and in turn provide you additional items and rewards that can be used to overcome some of the more difficult adventures down the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't write off an investigator. My two guys were slouchs at first but when I started picking my adventures a bit wiser they ended up coming on strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The footprint token that allows you to reroll glyphs is priceless. Added dice is nice but the reroll is fabulous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Target adventures that don't have sequential phases with investigators that don't have reroll abilities. This allows you to use the dice that are available when you have them and not in the order the adventure dictates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember the odds of the dice. Each green dice has the following sides - Investigation ×1, Investigation ×2, Investigation ×3,  Lore, Peril, Terror. Be sure to Focus according to the odds and the needs of the adventure. Yellow dice replaces Terror with an Investigation ×4. Red dice is like the Yellow dice but replaces Investigation ×1 with the Wild token - lovely, lovely wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cashing in trophies tokens at the Entrance seems to be a waste if you are using four investigators - especially if you have the adventure that is hitting you for 2 trophies every midnight. With four investigators, you only get two turns per investigator per day. I'm going to try with less than four to see if that dynamic will change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assist is a great feature that works if you fail an adventure and then have a second investigator come in. Instead of focusing one dice, you'll be able to focus two. A nice synergy in the game and makes getting past some of those tough adventures a little bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used some/all of these tips and I was finally able to win a couple games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T14:32:47.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7317" CreationDate="2011-11-05T23:27:57.717" Score="2" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing La Guerre des Moutons (aka Wooly Bully?) at boiteajeux.net and I have to say I'm all at sea.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a tile placement game very reminiscent of Carcassonne, but in boiteajeux's implementation I can't see any way of rotating a tile - as far as I can tell you have to fit the tile onto the map in the same orientation that it's presented to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just don't see how, in the &quot;real&quot; game, the tiles wouldn't be rotatable.  Additionally, in the online implementation the tiles appear to be two-sided - this is obviously difficult to represent, but the tiles are presented to you as connected pairs, and if you play the top half of the pair A, you lose the option to play B.  Again I find it difficult to believe the tiles are two-sided in the &quot;real&quot; game, because then it'd be a nightmare to keep your hidden information secret from the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone who has played this game in real life describe to me how it works?  Is the boiteajeux version a creative adaptation of the original game for online play, or have I just spectacularly failed to comprehend what's going on here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: And, d'oh, I've just worked out how to rotate tiles in the online game before playing them.  Feeling a bit silly now for playing a couple of games with a serious self-handicap!  I'd still like to hear any answers that can tell me how/if online Wooly Bully differs from offline play; as I still don't understand if the tiles are double-faced or not... Amending question title accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-11-06T11:12:36.477" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T14:34:04.070" Title="Is The Online Version of La Guerre des Moutons Identical To the &quot;Real&quot; Game?" Tags="|online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5261" CreationDate="2011-11-06T12:21:04.113" Score="9" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoying playing Alhambra, but I'm a bit worried that my strategy may be overly simplistic.  Basically, I play according to the following principles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try not to build buildings unless I can pay exactly for them, except in emergencies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prefer to pick up several small currency cards over one large one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prefer to pick up a currency card that will help me buy a building for exact money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walls are good, staying competitive in different colours is good, taking too big a lead in buildings of any one colour is unnecessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And these rules of thumb work pretty well to give me a fair chance of winning the games of Alhambra I play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know is, what do in a game where the above strategy isn't winning the game for me?  I'm playing a game online at the moment where one player just raced ahead of everyone else really early one.  I guess his starting currency cards were a really good match for the  buildings that were available early and all his tiles were unusually cooperative in allowing him to build a really good wall.  (Either that or he's just a much better Alhambra player than the rest of us - always a possibility!)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm finding my above strategy isn't very enjoyable in a game where a player is miles ahead.  Therefore: is there a way of adapting my Alhambra methods to aggressively &quot;go after&quot; another player who is doing rather too well?  Or is Alhambra just one of those unfortunate games where a player developing an early lead is overwhelmingly likely to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T16:47:08.070" Title="How Do You Catch A Player Who Takes A Quick Lead In Alhambra?" Tags="|tactics|alhambra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5269" CreationDate="2011-11-06T14:09:35.990" Score="10" ViewCount="16804" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic: The Gathering, many players talk about a &quot;control finisher&quot; -- some kind of big back-breaking spells that (usually) seals up your victory. I guess you could say that, if you boil down a control strategy to &quot;don't lose the game long enough that you can win it&quot;, the finisher cards in your deck are providing the &quot;win it&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, these have been fairly modest singleton creatures in otherwise creatureless permission decks, whittling away at an opponent's life while you lock your opponent out with counterspells (most notably, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSerra%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMorphling%5d&quot;&gt;Morphling&lt;/a&gt;). More recently, cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCruel%20Ultimatum%5d&quot;&gt;Cruel Ultimatum&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrave%20Titan%5d&quot;&gt;Grave Titan&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConsecrated%20Sphinx%5d&quot;&gt;Consecrated Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; have all been described as &quot;control finishers&quot;. I've seen the label applied to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCelestial%20Colonnade%5d&quot;&gt;Celestial Colonnade&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What characteristics make a card a good choice for the &quot;finisher&quot; role?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is a generally strong and cost-efficient card in your deck's colors (a nasty creature or planeswalker, especially) &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a good control finisher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T17:30:41.513" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T17:36:59.680" Title="What makes an ideal &quot;control finisher&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-11-06T14:09:57.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wish to interest those around you and provoke interaction, Icehouse Zen is an excellent choice.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's sufficiently open to new players mid-game that anyone can join in and is nice and easy to explain.  We have ended up with several fellow drinkers joining us for a game, which is a lovely pub experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1983" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T14:09:57.457" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-06T14:09:57.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5257" CreationDate="2011-11-06T14:34:43.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you can use pretty much any win condition as your finisher once you have reached board control. You can use a small creature early on, or a big guy very late, or anything in between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically then, what really makes a good finishing creature are its abilities. Use whatever creature supplements your strategy best. A few properties to look out for in a finisher are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power of 4 or more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Built-in protection, such as protection from color or Shroud/Hex-proof to minimize your burden of protecting your finisher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;High resistance to direct damage, i.e. regeneration, graveyard recursion, or high toughness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defensive abilities such as Vigilance or life gain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evasion such as flying or being outright unblockable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generates card advantage e.g. through token generation or card drawing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should look for creatures that combine at least two or three of these properties; the more the better of course. Mana cost should not be much of a concern for a control deck. Cost-efficiency is only important for aggressive decks. In a good control deck you can simply wait until you have enough mana and board control to cast anything you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, anything that is not a good finisher is a bad finisher - any creature without abilities are usually bad finishers, or creatures that are easy to dispose of (this also depends on meta), or aggressive creatures that bring a significant disadvantage to you as well, such as putting time pressure on you (many black and/or red creatures are guilty of that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't give examples because specific card answers depend on the format and will change over time as formats shift, new expansions come out, and rules change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T18:11:57.180" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T18:11:57.180" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5257" CreationDate="2011-11-06T14:54:04.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surely this card was the absolute benchmark for a control finisher:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sdjJZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highly resistant to removal, can't be chump-blocked, kills an undamaged opponent in two swings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I say was rather than is: Wizards, to my vague disapproval, has continued to print cards &quot;in the style of&quot; Progenitus, but with increasingly less prohibitive mana costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpjh5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yFF8b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tell they're intentional control finisher designs because they are hard to cast, exceptionally hard to deal with, can win in one and will almost always win in two swings, and have that fiddly &quot;can't be put in the graveyard from anywhere&quot; clause to prevent them from being completely abusive in any reanimator strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So these cards do it all on their own.  You can get away with using less expensive and absurd finishers, but only if your deck can do &#xA;the things that these cards can do on their own: protect the finisher from removal, win the game in a short enough window of time once the finisher comes down!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T14:54:04.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5255" CreationDate="2011-11-06T15:49:47.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, early leads in Alhambra tend to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; indicate victories.  In most games in my circles I am last after the first scoring round, and then win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First scoring round is all about walls.  These walls if played right&#xA;will make you points two more times in the game.  The color points&#xA;are meager, and the game will change quite a bit before the next&#xA;scoring round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before first scoring, stacking up on money can be more useful than buying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small exact change is nice, but don't undervalue big money.  Having to later drop 4 cards to pay for something loses all the advantage of taking two consecutive actions.  In a perfect world you have some 8s and 9s, and some 1s and 2s to adjust them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy almost always for exact change, but don't feel bad taking something for too much if you need it (if it's an emergency).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The endgame grab of tiles can decide the winner.  Be ready for it when taking money late game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can, memorise EVERYTHING.  There is actually no unknown information.  You have seen every card in every player's hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-06T16:47:08.070" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T16:47:08.070" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1537" CreationDate="2011-11-06T17:06:50.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;More generally fairy movement is an alternative to (and takes place at the same point in the game as) &lt;em&gt;figure&lt;/em&gt; placement. After placing his tile for the turn, a player may choose one of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deploy one figure into a feature on the land tile just placed (if the dragon isn’t already on the tile because of volcano placement);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deploy one follower to any tile on the board if the just-placed tile has a magic gate symbol;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the fairy to any tile on which he (already) has a follower (even if player has no pieces left or legal placements for them); or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place a barn, on a just-formed junction of four field segments in a field without a barn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is followed by dragon movement and scoring.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastEditorUserId="1050" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T03:29:18.433" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T03:29:18.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5266" CreationDate="2011-11-06T17:40:27.907" Score="12" ViewCount="4148" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of cards in players' hands is public knowledge, as is the number of exiled cards and cards in anyone's graveyard. But is the number of cards in your library public knowledge at all times as well? This could strongly affect decisions for players who frequently run mill decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-06T18:01:54.737" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T18:01:54.737" Title="Is the number of cards in my opponent's library public knowledge in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5267" CreationDate="2011-11-06T17:54:52.060" Score="22" ViewCount="13296" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTG drafting sounds like a really awesome way to play the game. I'd love to try it with some of my friends, but having to spent &gt;5$ for each player every single time you want to play seems unnecessarily prohibitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make MTG drafting work with cards I already have? The big issue I see is with the random selection of the starting cards. Do the boosters that are meant to used with drafting really contain completely random cards? How can I simulate their distribution? Should I have each starting set of 15 cards contain only cards from 1 set? How can I make sure there's a variety of cards (enough creatures, instant, and sorceries to keep things interesting) being used without destroying the randomness of selection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know not using boosters will take away a small part of the game, mostly the total randomness of what all the packs contain. I'm not looking for a perfect draft simulator, but as I have 3000+ cards I don't see why my group can't have &gt;95% of the fun of drafting without having to buy new boosters every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2021-06-20T22:47:48.693" Title="Running a MTG draft without actually having to buy new boosters for each player every single time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5264" CreationDate="2011-11-06T18:00:17.937" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110930.txt&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;401.3. Any player may count the number of cards remaining in any player's library at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-11-06T18:00:17.937" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5265" CreationDate="2011-11-06T18:27:00.743" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a popular fan-made format called &lt;strong&gt;Cube&lt;/strong&gt; where you create a set of cards and people pick them for their decks, either by assembling virtual &quot;packs&quot; by grabbing random sets of cards or (more rarely) picking them one-at-a-time from the whole set kinda like how teams draft rookie players in professional sports. Because you tailor the card pool to your group's needs, it's easy to create Cubes for unconventional formats like Commander (individual collection permitting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in having pack-based drafts that strongly resemble normal MTG Limited and Sealed, you can &lt;strong&gt;assemble your own packs from your personal collection&lt;/strong&gt;, basically like Cube draft but with rarity. Here's a rough guide...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, the only thing that's truly fixed about boosters is rarity distribution (although you can get extra rares in a pack due to foils, or specialty stuff like double-faced cards or &quot;hidden treasures&quot;). There are some other correlations that arise due to how sheets are cut, but they're mostly at the box level rather than individual-pack level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with a fairly representative sample of a set and then construct cards with the same rarity distribution as regular MTG boosters, the laws of probability should ensure that you get a reasonable distribution of colors and card types in the vast majority of your packs (a few really skewed ones is acceptable or even desirable, just like you sometimes get really skewed &quot;official&quot; boosters). The easiest way to do this is just to create three big piles for commons, uncommons, and rares (/mythics) and make packs from them sight-unseen in the normal 1:3:10 ratio; you don't have to do anything special for the individual packs as long as your starting piles are at fair (e.g. if you collect certain colors much more heavily than others, make sure that bias doesn't filter into the big giant piles you've created). Ideally your big piles should be significantly bigger than the number of cards in any given draft; that way there's no guarantee that a particular card is bound to be in one of the packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to create a coherent environment is to stay within a given &lt;em&gt;block&lt;/em&gt; (set of 3-4 expansions). Playing a familiar block format will make it easier for players to evaluate cards. I don't think the extra effort that would be required to make sure your packs exactly match individual &lt;em&gt;sets&lt;/em&gt; (like they do in &quot;real&quot; Limited) is really worthwhile -- if anything, I think you can have a more fun block draft if cards from the various expansions are mixed together across all three packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can also vary (or just abolish) the rarity mix in order to create a very different play experience. I'm assuming other ways to alter the experience will come to you once you've tried this a few times. If you find yourselves wanting to fine-tune what goes into your card pool, look for articles on Cube drafting: the same principles folks apply to creating a Cube can be used to analyze what you're putting into the pool you draw packs from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T21:50:21.520" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T21:50:21.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5257" CreationDate="2011-11-06T21:52:08.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's my logic: when you have control of the game, it doesn't matter what your finisher is, so you should pick something that helps you out as much as possible when you don't have control. (I originally read this in Randy Buehler's description of his 1998 Worlds deck, in which he used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRainbow%20Efreet%5d&quot;&gt;Rainbow Efreet&lt;/a&gt;.) This holds true for essentially all of the common control finishers in Standard today:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConsecrated%20Sphinx%5d&quot;&gt;Consecrated Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; lets you draw a ton of cards. Even using its ability two or three times can give you enough card advantage to match your opponent spell-for-threat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWurmcoil%20Engine%5d&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt; gains you lots of life and can also trade for up to 3 of your opponent's creatures or removal spells, which is a huge setback for an aggressive deck. This is why it's a popular finisher against aggro decks, but not so much against other control decks or combo decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSun%20Titan%5d&quot;&gt;Sun Titan&lt;/a&gt; lets you get an extra use out of one or more of your spells, often something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblivion%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGhost%20Quarter%5d&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;, which can help you regain control when facing down troublesome permanents. It plays a similar role to Consecrated Sphinx.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrave%20Titan%5d&quot;&gt;Grave Titan&lt;/a&gt; is basically a horde-in-a-box (actually in a card): getting three creatures out of one card, especially given that one is giant and has deathtouch, can shut your opponent's entire attacking force down. Plus, if they don't deal with it &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;, you get two more creatures every turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going back a bit, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCelestial%20Colonnade%5d&quot;&gt;Celestial Colonnade&lt;/a&gt; helps you when you don't have control in a different way: it can't be countered, and it requires instant-speed removal to get rid of. This is more of an anti-control finisher, since when you're playing another control deck, not having control of the board generally means that you're outmatched with counterspells or removal spells. The Colonnade lets you put pressure on your opponent without having to fight through a ton of counterspells. (Same goes for any other &quot;manland.&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMorphling%5d&quot;&gt;Morphling&lt;/a&gt; was a good anti-control finisher for a similar reason to the manlands: the ability to give it shroud and pump its toughness made it very difficult to kill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSword%20of%20Feast%20and%20Famine%5d&quot;&gt;Sword of Feast and Famine&lt;/a&gt; was the namesake finisher of the Cawblade deck. Its power came from the fact that it allowed you to get double use out of your mana, once for advancing your own board and once for countering your opponent's spells. So even if you were somewhat behind in the game state, once you started getting Sword hits in it became fairly easy to recover. (To be fair, Cawblade wasn't a true control deck, but it did fall into that role sometimes.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planeswalkers generally tend to have very powerful abilities that can go a long way toward helping you gain control of the game. This is why &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJace%2c%20the%20mind%20sculptor%5d&quot;&gt;Jace, the mind sculptor&lt;/a&gt; was so good: it could bounce a creature, draw you cards, or shut your opponent out of good draws. It was like the control player's Swiss army knife. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGideon%20Jura%5d&quot;&gt;Gideon Jura&lt;/a&gt; is a popular choice these days because it can stop your opponent from attacking you, saving you some life, and it acts as a repeatable removal spell as well, so it's difficult for any creature-based deck to play around it. And of course, with both of those planeswalkers, once you've used their removal capabilities to their full extent, they give you a direct win condition as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that all these cards have big, game-changing effects: 6-power creatures, 4-power flyers, removing your opponent's entire library from the game, etc. This means that if they're not dealt with, they let you win very quickly. There is something to be said for this strategy, because it minimizes the amount of time that you need to maintain control of the game, but in a proper control deck it's not necessary to have a big flashy finisher. Something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFiend%20Hunter%5d&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt;, for example, would not be too bad because it exiles one of your opponent's creatures and then can sit around and block. Back in the days of the original Caw-go deck, even &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSquadron%20Hawk%5d&quot;&gt;Squadron Hawk&lt;/a&gt; filled the finisher role well because you could play one to attack and it came with 3 buddies who could either block or add to the pressure on your opponent. However, Wizards is making it rather difficult to create a true control deck these days, mostly because counterspells are just not as efficient as they used to be. So I wouldn't actually suggest using something like Fiend Hunter as your only finisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When choosing a finisher, the cards I would stay from are those that don't do anything to help you regain control of the game when you are losing it. As a concrete example, you could imagine &quot;losing it&quot; to mean that you're at 4 life and facing down three 2-power creatures; or perhaps you're at 7 life and your opponent will be able to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDevil%27s%5d%2b%5bPlay%5d&quot;&gt;Devil&amp;#39;s Play&lt;/a&gt; to burn you out in two turns. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKindercatch%5d&quot;&gt;Kindercatch&lt;/a&gt; would be a great example of a &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; finisher because it just doesn't do anything to help you get out of either situation. Sure, it can block one of your opponent's creatures, but you need something to deal with multiple creatures and non-creature threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would actually say something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProgenitus%5d&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; is only a mediocre finisher, because the only sense in which it deals with anything is by killing your opponent before they get the chance to cast that lethal Devil's Play or whatever. Admittedly it is very effective at that, but you have to consider that a giant creature like that is of absolutely no use in the early game, before you've accumulated the 10 mana required to cast it, which is when you typically need the secondary effects of your finishers most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt; See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/running-the-gauntlet-ub-vs-gw-tokens/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;, specifically game 1 of match 3, for a great example of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSnapcaster%20Mage%5d&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; being used as a finisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T17:36:59.680" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T17:36:59.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5276" CreationDate="2011-11-07T06:26:39.480" Score="39" ViewCount="24180" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing Catan tonight, I rolled a 7 and moved the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one had more than 7 cards, but I still asked how many cards people had in their hand because I wanted to know who had the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the other players told me false numbers and said they didn't have to tell me how many cards they had if I was going to use the knowledge to steal from someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right? Am I not allowed to ask how many cards a player has?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T14:46:14.110" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T03:41:19.460" Title="In Catan, can I ask how many cards are in a player's hand?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5275" CreationDate="2011-11-07T06:30:57.930" Score="8" ViewCount="5458" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing Quiddler tonight, I played both words &quot;SIC&quot; and &quot;QUO&quot;. Both got challenged and both were in the dictionary that we agreed upon (dictionary.com).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the question of whether I can use &quot;QUO&quot; because the dictionary defined it as &quot;Verb - Archaic: Quoth.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said it's allowed because it's in the dictionary and used in common vernacular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent said I couldn't use archaic English words because they are no longer part of the English language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true for Quiddler? Scrabble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-11-07T13:50:22.993" LastActivityDate="2022-01-31T17:38:32.293" Title="Am I allowed to use archaic words in Quiddler/Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-07T07:14:33.593" Score="3" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Bohnanza Fan Edition by mistake and I can't return it (long story) how can I alter the cards to make them more readable/playable like the original edition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1988" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T08:50:38.697" Title="Bohnanza Fan Edition" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5273" CreationDate="2011-11-07T08:00:13.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word legality rules of Quiddler appear to be slightly more relaxed than those of Scrabble - according to Wikipedia, capitalized adjectives such as &quot;Iraqi&quot; and &quot;Scottish&quot; are acceptable in Quiddler, where to the best of my knowledge they still aren't in Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Archaic words, by contrast, have always been allowed in Scrabble.  Again per Wikipedia: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Variant spellings, slang or offensive terms, archaic or obsolete&#xA;  terms, and specialized jargon words are allowed if they meet all other&#xA;  criteria for acceptability.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd say they were definitely fair game for Quiddler too.  Having said all that, both Scrabble and Quiddler are games that lend themselves well to &lt;em&gt;house rules&lt;/em&gt;.  If you're playing with your grandmother you're probably going to dial back on the offensive terms; likewise some people get so offended by the idea of allowing slang or archaisms that it can become easier just not to use them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, the funny thing about &quot;quo&quot; is that I suspect most people try to use it as part of the phrase &quot;status quo&quot; - which would be a foreign phrase and therefore not acceptable!  But luckily your dictionary contains a legitimate form of it also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T08:00:13.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5272" CreationDate="2011-11-07T08:14:54.050" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the Settlers of Catan FAQ &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/faq/basegame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it true that the number of cards in your hand is always open and&#xA;available information? Specifically, should it be readily apparent how&#xA;many development cards you have, but have not yet played? Or can you&#xA;hide the resource cards under the table or in your pocket so that no&#xA;one can see how many cards you have?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The quantity of cards you have in your hand is public&#xA;information. But the identity of those cards is not. If another player&#xA;asks, for example, how may resource cards do you have, right before he&#xA;moves the robber, you must tell him truthfully the number of resource&#xA;cards you have in your hand. The same goes for Development or Progress&#xA;cards. The number of each type of card (resource, development, etc.)&#xA;that you have is public knowledge at all times. (But, not the specific&#xA;cards, i.e. wood, sheep, rock…)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a terrible idea to allow players to dissimulate about the number of cards in their hand.  For one thing, it means that unscrupulous types could pretend they didn't need to lose resources to the robber.  For another, it runs the risk of creating a situation where everyone has to keep track on paper or mentally of what everyone else draws just to make sensible plays, and that would be a big waste of time and effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2022-02-11T03:41:19.460" LastActivityDate="2022-02-11T03:41:19.460" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5273" CreationDate="2011-11-07T08:34:04.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to thesunneversets' answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The words allowed in Quiddler are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quiddler#Allowable_words&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;those in a pre-agreed dictionary of the players' choice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrabble#Acceptable_words&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;, the players may agree on a dictionary.  However, there are also word lists compiled especially for Scrabble.  In (English language) tournaments in most countries, as well as for the World Scrabble Championship, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SOWPODS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SOWPODS&lt;/a&gt; is used. National tournaments in the USA, Canada and Thailand use &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tournament_Word_List&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TWL&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T08:34:04.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5274" CreationDate="2011-11-07T08:50:38.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest issue with the fan cards is that they don't contain the quantity of that type of bean in the deck.  If you're prepared to mark the face of the cards, then adding &quot;12&quot; to all your Soy Beans would improve the playability greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing that's missing from the fan cards is the bean name.  Having the numbers alone would be fine to identify which beans are from the same set (as well as the icons in the top corners), but the negotiation is helped along by everyone using the same names.  If you have room on the cards you could try adding this information too, but I would prefer to print off a few crib sheets to have in the centre of the table, showing the bean icon, the quantity and the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I love the gameplay in Bohnanza, but quite dislike the artwork.  I think the fan edition may prove to be a good investment once you've got used to it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T08:50:38.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-11-07T13:38:40.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Darts, Pool, Shuffleboard and of course the classic: Get a beautiful woman to go home with you. I think that bringing dice or Banangrams to the bar might be mutually exclusive with the goal of the last game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1985" LastActivityDate="2011-11-07T13:38:40.823" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-07T13:38:40.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5358" CreationDate="2011-11-07T15:04:39.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing Standard American, partner opened 1 club. Right hand opponent overcalled 1 spade. I raised to 2 clubs with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠xx ♥Axxx ♦JTxx ♣Qxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone passed. Partner had 13 points and a &quot;short&quot; three card club suit and we went down one (not doubled, not vulnerable), because of our club shortness. Our system allows us to bid short minors, although most of the time we have have four, or even five of the minor. But switch the club and heart suits, and I would have gladly raised to two hearts with Qxx because we were playing five card majors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested that I use a &quot;negative double&quot; instead of raising one club because of the potential short club problem. What exactly is its meaning and purpose, since partner already bid? It's not exactly a takeout double, but it seems to have the connotations of &quot;I don't like your suit, could you bid another one.&quot; Or does it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, in fact, is a negative double the best action in this case since I have only seven points? (What little I was taught about this bid was that it showed 8-10 points.) I'm actually quite happy with the result because we shut out a one spade bid that would have made, perhaps with overtricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T18:36:19.967" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T11:50:50.333" Title="Should I Use A &quot;Negative Double&quot; Over a Possible &quot;Short Club&quot; Bid And Overcall in Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4921" CreationDate="2011-11-08T02:27:29.867" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/4923/316&quot;&gt;BREAD&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is key, but there is another technique that helps a lot in most Limited formats: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draft archetypes, not colors.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theory behind &quot;drafting archetypes&quot; is that a great Limited deck, like a great Constructed deck, is defined by the power, consistency, and efficiency of all its cards working &lt;em&gt;together&lt;/em&gt; rather than any individual piece by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a not-just-for-&quot;hardcore&quot;-players environment like FNM, many of the players will be rather busy just trying their best to follow the &quot;BREAD&quot; rules and color-signal to their neighbors. They'll often be drafting cards based on individual perceived value, leading to a field full of &quot;good stuff&quot; decks (individually strong cards with little synergy between them). &quot;Good stuff&quot; decks tend to suck; a reasonably focused deck -- almost independent of the specific focus -- can trounce them. That's what you're trying to draft: not just a color combo with a few bombs but a full concept like &quot;infect aggro&quot;, &quot;blue/white flyers&quot;, or &quot;reanimator&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick a game plan early. Pay close attention to your mana curve. Choose colors based on what has the cards you need and don't be afraid to switch if the well runs dry. Rare-draft a nice mythic if you really want to (you'll likely have more than enough depth in your colors to make up for it), but don't get caught up taking cards just because they're &quot;powerful&quot; individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Homing in on cards that complement each other lets you get enormous value out of what would otherwise be middling cards or last-pick trash. Even if you don't see a single powerhouse red bomb or choice red removal card, a steady trickle of aggressive red 1-drops and 2-drops is a solid basis for an aggro deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting archetypes still involves signals. Watch especially for enablers. Some of the most obvious examples are tribal &quot;lords&quot; like Rakish Heir and Lord of Illusions. Others are build-a-deck-around-me combo-ish cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234849&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gutter Grime&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245197&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Past in Flames&lt;/a&gt;. Conventional wisdom is that these cards are all rather weak because it's hard to get enough cards to make them work, but consider that you're likely to see hundreds of cards as the packs make their way around, &lt;em&gt;and many of the cards that complete your deck are likely to be passed as &quot;dregs&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Being able to pass a card that you know will win games for you and have it come all the way around back to you is an amazingly rewarding feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trade-off is that it's hard to really be good at drafting archetypes without spending time learning a particular Limited card pool. Unlike the easier fundamentals, your Zendikar-block archetype drafting skills won't necessarily translate into Innistrad-block archetype drafting skills. Still, it doesn't take an inordinate amount of time to learn the basics -- it's mostly stuff you're already aware of if you're making constructed decks or following new set previews -- and the benefits are sizable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic aggro decks are the easiest archetypes to draft. You can often do well in a draft just by making a deck that's faster than most players'. High-synergy aggro and aggro-control are the next step up in difficulty, because you really do have to know the specific card pool well to hit the critical mass of key cards for your deck. Straight-up control decks are trickier just because the cards you want most are the much-desired &quot;Bombs&quot; and &quot;Removal&quot;, but most sets have lots of chronically undervalued control cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geistflame&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213726&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steel Sabotage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T12:24:33.420" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T12:24:33.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4486" CreationDate="2011-11-08T05:19:51.303" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shogi is an excellent suggestion, being similar to Chess yet having the Asian origins that Go has. If you want to go for the more western games, Draughts or Checkers are closer to Chess than Mah Jong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5 in a row &quot;Go moku&quot; is also a fun, if simple game. It can be played with a standard Go set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1991" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T05:19:51.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5289" CreationDate="2011-11-08T15:36:22.183" Score="10" ViewCount="6781" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming Innistrad-Innistrad-Innistrad in a booster draft, what are the potential archetypes a player could draft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a reference, see Alex P's answer to another quetion &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4921/what-are-good-strategies-for-booster-drafts/5285#5285&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T22:23:47.930" Title="What are the possible archetypes in Innistrad draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5287" CreationDate="2011-11-08T19:09:38.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Innistrad drafts so far, I've noticed the following as dominating archetypes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red-black vampires&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a classic red aggro strategy, since there lots of small, fast vamps that get big to put a major hurt on your opponent, especially the Bloodcrazed Neonate and the Falkenrath Marauders. The bombs in this deck are the Bloodline Keeper or Olivia Voldaren -- if you see either of those in pack one or two, then jump into black-red vamps with both feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green-red werewolves&lt;/strong&gt;. This is another aggro deck, though it's slightly slower than the vamp deck since the werewolves are a little bit bigger and take a while longer to flip and become monsters. The Mayor of Avabruck is a good keystone card here, as are the Kessig Cagebreakers -- but really, &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the werewolves in this set are strong enough once flipped to win the game in a few turns. This is my favorite of the current archetypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue-white flyers&lt;/strong&gt; (or &quot;Things with Wings&quot; as I like to call it). This deck runs lots of humans, spirits, and angels. In the early game it tends towards control rather than beat-down, since this deck will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; win a race against werewolves or vampires, but towards the late game it'll amass a critical mass of flyers to hit for the win. Bombs include the Angel of Flight Alabaster, The Geist of Saint Traft, Geist-Honored Monk, and Intangible Virtue as a key enchantment. In my experience, this is one of the weakest archetypes, since there isn't enough good removal or cheap common flyers to build out a strong deck, and the good blue utility cards are heavily competed for by people playing the following archetype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue-black zombie mill&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a control deck, relying on removal and counterspells to clear out the early threats, then bring down the skaabs once there are plenty of creatures in the graveyard. The bombs in this deck include Grimgrin, Corpse-Born and the Skaab Goliath. This deck benefits the most from flashback -- conveniently, since blue has the most flashback of any color in Innistrad. There is also a &lt;em&gt;pure&lt;/em&gt; mill variant of this deck which I had the misfortune to play against once, when my lucky opponent had managed to draft pretty much every mill card in the set, including 2x Nephalia Drownyard and 2x Curse of the Bloody Tome. This strategy can be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; effective, but it's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard to draft enough cards to make it viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green-white humans&lt;/strong&gt; should be mentioned to round out the color wheel, though in my experience the synergies among the humans in the set aren't strong enough to really call this a tournament archetype. If you're running green-white you're probably doing it to get the most value out of Travel Preparations, but in that case you'll probably want to construct your deck around white flyers or green werewolves instead, and splash to cover the off-color costs of Travel Preparations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2011-11-08T20:27:53.630" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T20:27:53.630" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2011-11-08T21:21:08.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;David's suggestion of &lt;a href=&quot;http://zyzzyva.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zyzzyva&lt;/a&gt; looks like it might be the most comprehensive resource, but here are some others that might also be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.isc.ro/en/commands/lists.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Internet Scrabble Club&lt;/a&gt; has several lists to download, including SOWPODS and TWL06. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabblist.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scrabblist.com&lt;/a&gt; lets you verify words in either the SOWPODS or TWL lists. It has the advantage of not requiring any downloads. It doesn't give definitions, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://ninjawords.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ninjawords&lt;/a&gt; is a very convenient tool for finding definitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="118" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T21:21:08.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5293" CreationDate="2011-11-08T21:41:00.380" Score="10" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if Mayfair Games or Klus himself created an official FAQ for the base (or all versions) of the Settlers of Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T14:06:04.703" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T14:06:04.703" Title="Is there an official Catan FAQ that is a supplement to the included rules book?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5291" CreationDate="2011-11-08T23:43:46.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq.html&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/faq.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T23:43:46.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="529" CreationDate="2011-11-09T02:08:18.943" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://zombiedice.sjgames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zombie Dice&lt;/a&gt;, by Steve Jackson Games.  It does have custom dice, which if you're not careful can go wandering, but if you've got a table, it's great.  It's also good because games are so short, if someone else arrives, they're not stuck watching from the side for too long.  Add a little alcohol and &quot;Braaaaaaaains&quot;, and you're in for a great game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SJ Games also make &lt;a href=&quot;http://cthulhudice.sjgames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cthulhu dice&lt;/a&gt;, but I've had less success with that: it takes some time to figure out what the symbols on the dice mean, especially if you're not familiar with the Call of Cthulhu rpgs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1994" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T02:08:18.943" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-09T02:08:18.943" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5296" CreationDate="2011-11-09T16:26:03.387" Score="6" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's often said by world-class Backgammon players that the best way to improve one's play is to analyse one's games with a computer program such as gnubg, JellyFish or Snowie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;gnubg has a &quot;tutor mode&quot; that evaluates the quality of the player's proposed move, to know before making a move if this one is bad. I assume the same exists for chess programs (hence the tag).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, it's also possible to do all the analysis at the end and walk through our moves to look at the errors. My question is whether one of the two methods is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third way I often use is to play normally and ask the computer to analyse the move when I'm unsure of the best answer. I do this just after my thoughts, but without following the computer's advice (to stay motivated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know of any public statement from top Backgammon or Chess players, or a study regarding the best way to improve oneself by playing against a program, using these or other methods? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="747" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-09T22:53:25.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:43:02.933" Title="Best way to improve ourselves when playing against a computer" Tags="|chess|teaching|backgammon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2011-11-09T17:27:38.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no sources to cite, but I think it depends a lot on your own learning style. You will certainly not learn well if the computer just tells you the best play and you follow it, but if you can carefully think through your move before being told by the computer if it's bad, and if the computer has a better move you can reason out why it's better, immediate feedback is fine. However, if you find yourself getting impatient and cutting back on your thinking time, perhaps you should wait until the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do Go problems on the computer a fair bit. With Go problems, usually the first move is the key, and often is the hardest move to find. Some programs will tell you immediately if the first move you've made is correct, but I much prefer the ones that will let me play out a bad sequence without telling me it's wrong until the end. That way I see exactly why it doesn't work, and it reduces the temptation to just try something that looks promising to see if it's right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T17:27:38.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5299" CreationDate="2011-11-09T17:55:27.287" Score="8" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card says &quot;You can choose another player to submit their Mission card face up.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 4 people are on the mission, and 1 player has this card played on them, do the other 3 players get to see what card he played before choosing the cards they will submit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T11:13:12.867" Title="In The Resistance, how does In the Spotlight work?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5297" CreationDate="2011-11-10T04:00:48.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player using &lt;em&gt;In the Spotlight&lt;/em&gt; must announce their intent to use it immediately after a successful &lt;em&gt;Mission Team Vote&lt;/em&gt;, and they must select the target player before any team member selects their &lt;em&gt;Mission&lt;/em&gt; card. After the target has been chosen, each team member selects a &lt;em&gt;Mission&lt;/em&gt; card and puts it on the table in front of them. The player who is the target of &lt;em&gt;In the Spotlight&lt;/em&gt; then reveals their card to everyone. The leader then collects the other &lt;em&gt;Mission&lt;/em&gt; cards as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other team members must select their &lt;em&gt;Mission&lt;/em&gt; card before seeing the revealed card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to select the target of &lt;em&gt;In the Spotlight&lt;/em&gt; before any team members have selected their &lt;em&gt;Mission&lt;/em&gt; card, because it could affect the choice they make. For example, if a Spy selects a &lt;em&gt;Fail&lt;/em&gt; card before &lt;em&gt;In the Spotlight&lt;/em&gt; is played, they would have to pick up their card to change it. That would certainly be very revealing. The intent of &lt;em&gt;In the Spotlight&lt;/em&gt; is that the target player knows they will have to reveal their card before making their choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-11-10T04:10:11.040" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T04:10:11.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5320" CreationDate="2011-11-10T14:11:22.420" Score="16" ViewCount="8359" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first thought was that it was always a bad idea to fail the first mission as a spy. As there are only two people on the mission, the spy has revealed himself to one of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 5 players though, it seems like the spies give too much away when succeeding. Is failing the first mission (as a spy) a bad idea even in a 5-player game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T12:20:43.603" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T16:35:38.977" Title="In The Resistance is it always a bad idea for the spies to fail the first mission?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5300" CreationDate="2011-11-10T16:16:20.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never played with just 5 players - only with 6, 7 and 8. And we're all still pretty new to the game seeing as the spies have always won and hardly any teams get rejected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the question is if an early start is better than reduced suspicion. In most of our games the first missions have succeeded, even though some contained spies. In our later games the spies usually only won with the 4th or 5th missions, so I'd guess that with more proficient resistance players it becomes more lucrative to fail the first mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five players is a difficult situation though, since there is only one other spy. I'd say that you should probably &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; fail the mission unless you or the other spy are directly after the second mission member. You'll want to quickly establish evidence that you are not the spy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="174" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-11-23T06:19:28.233" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T06:19:28.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-10T21:26:09.270" Score="10" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules clearly state that heroes can jump over pits, and how much movement it costs  to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in some quests, simply stepping on a regular terrain tile may trigger effects too (in this case, Quest #3 in Well of Darkness, where it triggers a rolling boulder, and can trigger this effect multiple times), and it's a safe bet that once the heroes have triggered that once, they're going to want to jump over that tile the next time they need to get past it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is that allowed? Do we simply assume that the &quot;jump over pits&quot; rule also applies to &quot;jump over blank tiles&quot;? Or is there some official ruling about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="463" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T19:26:27.977" Title="In Descent, can heroes jump over arbitrary tiles or just pits?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-11T12:43:05.613" Score="4" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dealt and passed - LH opponent passed, partner passed and RHO opened 1 Heart.&#xA;Holding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠ K98   ♥ 109   ♦ A986  ♣KJ2&#xA;     &#xA;can I double as this is the first opportunity to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2002" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T14:54:44.817" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T14:54:44.817" Title="Take out double at first opportunity to double?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5307" CreationDate="2011-11-11T18:17:17.667" Score="6" ViewCount="2622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159400&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rite of Consumption&lt;/a&gt; by sacrificing a creature that is using equipment (e.g. that has a +1/+2 bonus). Is the creature's power then increased by the equipment effect, and thus available for the Rite of Consumption?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1736" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-30T17:17:52.077" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T17:17:52.077" Title="What is a creature's power when it has some equipment equipped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5306" CreationDate="2011-11-11T18:22:50.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - spells like Rite of Consumption check the last known information on the most recent public zone (in this case, the battlefield, where the equipment will be attached when that power is checked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2g If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only once, when the effect is applied. If the effect requires information from a specific object, including the source of the ability itself or a target that's become illegal, the effect uses the current information of that object if it's in the public zone it was expected to be in; if it's no longer in that zone, or if the effect has moved it from a public zone to a hidden zone, the effect uses the object's last known information. See rule 112.7a. If an ability states that an object does something, it's the object as it exists -- or as it most recently existed -- that does it, not the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T18:22:50.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T13:57:10.460" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards like Dhol Chants state that if you pass the test, you discard the card and receive another one. It doesn't say what to do if you fail the test. Do I discard it also, or do I leave it in that room for the next action turn/next investigator? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-11-12T15:59:32.877" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:13:13.000" Title="After failing the test on Dhol Chants, does the card stay in the room or get discarded?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T14:05:05.007" Score="6" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I investigate a room, do I take one card per action turn at a time or do I take them all on that action turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1916" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T20:41:00.853" Title="Do I take one card in a room or take all?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T17:37:07.357" Score="35" ViewCount="3869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the rules claim the sides are balanced and can be mixed in the same game, but I have my doubts. In general, the B-sides feel a little stronger to me, but it's sometimes hard to compare because they are so different. In most cases, it probably comes down to style of play and strategy to be used in a particular game. However at least in the case of Rhodes, the B-side seems to have an advantage. Here's a comparison:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completing all wonders of A-side yields:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 Victory points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Shields&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completing all wonders of B-side yields:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Victory points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Shields&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just looking at this alone, there is little difference between the benefits of the two sides. Since the 7 coins can be converted to 2.33 victory points, the A-side has only a very slight edge. However, there are some other things to consider which tip the scales in favor of the B-side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 coins are worth more than a victory point. At a minimum 3 coins equal a victory point, but coins are the tie-breaker, so 3 coins is greater than one victory point. Also, coins have more utility as they can be used to purchase other things, if desired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The B-side gets a Shield bonus and 3 coins after building the first wonder, making it much easier to get a military victory at the end of the first Age, and the coins are very helpful early on. The A-side doesn't give any benefit for the first wonder (aside from the victory points, which don't help until the end of the game).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The A-side requires 2 Wood, 3 Clay and 4 Ore to build its three wonders, respectively. The B-side only requires 3 Stone and 4 Ore. The 3 Clay and 3 Stone are basically equivalent, so the B-side avoids needing two of a third resource (Wood).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The B-side only requires two turns to build all wonders, while the A-side requires three. With the extra action a B-side player could simply discard a card for three coins, giving it a total of 10 coins, which then puts its rewards ahead of the A-side as the 10 coins would give 3.33 victory points. But the B-side player also has the option to put an additional card into play, which could be worth much more than 3 coins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this makes a strong case that the B-side of Rhodes is not balanced with the A-side. About the only advantage I can think of that the A-side has is for cards that count number of wonders built: Arena and Builder's Guild. Depending on the setup, Builder's Guild may not even be in the game. And, the B-side has the advantage of weakening that card for your neighbors. Arena is a nice card, but it's not a big loss, IMO. Does the A-side have some other advantage I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the A-side of Rhodes is underpowered or the B-side is overpowered, compared to other boards. When using the wonder cards to randomly determine which wonder board each player will play, we've taken to letting players choose the side they want to play because the consensus is some sides are just weaker than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of the other boards exhibit similar imbalance? I haven't examined the others that closely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T18:08:14.917" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T08:47:32.617" Title="Are the A-sides and B-sides of the wonder boards really balanced?" Tags="|7-wonders|balance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5309" CreationDate="2011-11-12T20:41:00.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You resolved them one at the time from the top. Unless you fail a puzzle or is lacking an item this usually means that you take all the cards as one action.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you find a puzzle in the top of the pile then you can resolve it in that turn and still take all the other cards on the pile, all in one action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T20:41:00.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2011-11-13T08:36:49.733" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that the cards in the question are &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; cards, in the conventional ordering of Spades, Hearts, Diamonds, Clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You certainly &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; make a takeout double at this stage - you have a shortage of your opponent's bid suit, and no major shortages elsewhere - but the question is, do you really want to?  With such an uninspiringly flat hand, only 11 HCP, and a partner who has already indicated that she doesn't have an opening hand, it seems unlikely you're going to be able to seriously compete in this auction, even in the best case scenario.  Supposing you force your opponent to bid here - do you really want to end up in 2C or 2D with a marginal fit and about 20 points between you?  (Not entirely a rhetorical question - maybe if you have 60 below the line, or your opponents have 70 below it, you do!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not worried about ending up in a miserable minor-suit partscore or, even more likely, giving your opponents a little more information about the lie of the cards than they previously had, then this doesn't seem an actively diabolical bid.  In general though I would adhere to the rule of thumb &quot;third hand low, fourth hand high&quot;: given that your hand in the fourth seat is so unexciting I'd usually just keep quiet and hope for more interesting cards next time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T08:36:49.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2011-11-13T14:10:11.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is yes, to the &quot;first to bid&quot; part, and not quite to the &quot;should I double&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal requirement for a takeout double is 14 points. You have 12, (11 in HCP, one for the doubleton in hearts), which I consider too weak for such a bid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the hand slightly to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠ KT98 ♥ --- ♦ A9862 ♣KJ92 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I'd double in a heartbeat, with three points for the void, and at least four cards in each of the other three suits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you seem to be missing a card in the original question. If the missing card is a low spade (so that you have four), that would make a better case for a double, even with your hand. And if the missing card were the queen of spades, then I'd certainly double with 13 HCP and a doubleton in the opponent's suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T15:05:46.467" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T15:05:46.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5315" CreationDate="2011-11-13T23:46:22.380" Score="5" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently it relates to duplicate bridge. Initially, I thought it meant playing the hand in a risky way to score overtricks, and taking the chance of sacrificing a potential game. But then someone said that you could &quot;play for top or bottom&quot; by making a safety play that others don't make. The term he used was &quot;going against the field.&quot; What did he mean by this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T17:54:51.413" Title="What is &quot;Playing For Top or Bottom&quot; In Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5314" CreationDate="2011-11-14T00:05:43.563" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is specific to Matchpoints. In Matchpoints, playing for top or bottom means that if you succeed, you get a top, otherwise you get a bottom. (Note: I haven't heard of people talking about top/bottom in other forms of duplicate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any play could potentially be called this way, including safety plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give a specific example of where a safety play might be considered playing for top or bottom, consider the following hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;♠: AT8xx&#xA;♡: AKx&#xA;♢: AKx&#xA;♣: Kx&#xA;&#xA;♠: K97x&#xA;♡: Qxx&#xA;♢: Qxx&#xA;♣: Axx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are playing matchpoints and have reached the contract of 6♠. You also think that the rest of players in your direction will do the same. Say you get a club lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if this were rubber bridge, you could almost ensure 12 tricks by winning the club K and playing a low spade towards the 7. If RHO follows, you play the 7. If RHO shows out, you win the K and play toward the AT. LHO can only get one spade trick (barring really bad breaks in other suits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, ducking the first round of spades is a safety play to cater to QJxx spades with one of the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Matchpoints, however, the normal play is to bang down the AK, making 13 tricks if trumps are 2-2 and still have chances for making 13 if they are 3-1 with a singleton Q or J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the field will not take the safety play, by taking the safety play (&quot;going against the field&quot;), you get a top if QJxx is held by one opponent (and rest of the field goes down by guessing to cash the honour in the wrong hand first). You will get a bottom if trumps are 2-2, or there is a singleton Q or J (you make exactly 12 tricks, while the rest make 13).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ignore QJx, as we expect opponents to split QJ and ensure a trick. You get an average in that case (everyone makes exactly 12 tricks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T17:54:51.413" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T17:54:51.413" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5318" CreationDate="2011-11-14T02:12:04.813" Score="5" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a board state I faced today in a casual Constructed game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eg0zh.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case it's not clear from the picture, I have 1x Mausoleum Guard, 1x Doomed Traveler, and 2x Intangible Virtue, while he has 1x Stormblood Beserker (enchanted with Pacifism) and Chandra the Firebrand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the play?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I send my guys after Chandra or hit my opponent directly? And why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually happened is this (spoilered for the curious):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; 1. I reason that, all else being equal, I'll grind him down on the ground before he can ping me to death with Chandra's +1 ability. I&#xA; attack him, and he goes to 12.&#xA; 2. He plays a Stormblood Beserker, pings me for one with Chandra's +1 ability, and passes the turn to me. I am now at 8 life.&#xA; 3. I pass the turn back without attacking, planning on using men to block and upgrade them into flying tokens.&#xA; 4. On his turn, he uses Chandra's -2 ability to double a spell. He then casts Incinerate targeting me, which gets doubled and hits for 6.&#xA; Then he casts &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; Incinerate from his hand, and I lose.&#xA; Should I have seen this coming? Should I have attacked Chandra to remove the threat of her -2 ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T15:17:16.923" Title="Who should I try to kill? Chandra or opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2011-11-14T04:23:14.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would absolutely have attacked Chandra.  Here's the reasoning: You're correct that you will kill your opponent on the ground before he can ping you to death with Chandra, but Chandra's ping isn't the true threat you face here (otherwise, it wouldn't be any better than Curse of the Pierced Heart).  Chandra is an enabler in the deck - in the board state you specify she can already double up on any spell your opponent might have in hand (and he has two cards in hand to your none), and the ping itself is an enabler for creatures like Stormblood Berserker (which you've already seen out of your opponent's deck at this point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, though, you're a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; way from killing your opponent and you're in eminent danger yourself.  Five turns (your current clock, at three damage per turn) might as well be forever, and that's assuming that your opponent draws no relevant spells.  The short version is that despite having the seemingly-better board presence, you're actually behind in the board state as it stands (and arguably far behind) and Chandra is the most tangible threat you face at the moment; eliminating her is both much easier and more pressing than eliminating your opponent (which admittedly has to happen soon).  As things stand, I suspect it's irrelevant, because I suspect you would have lost regardless (your opponent could still have pinged you with Chandra next turn, doubled-up on an Incinerate the turn after and just killed you with multiple burn spells), but I absolutely would have swung at Chandra and it's not very close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T04:23:14.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2011-11-14T06:09:01.230" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what's in the rest of your decks, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just generally speaking, a five-turn clock is too slow to justify sacrificing board position&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about ways to explain this in terms of drawing &quot;outs&quot;, &quot;control vs. beatdown&quot; theory, &amp;amp;c., but I think it's actually simpler than that... Look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220146&quot;&gt;Chandra's -6 ability&lt;/a&gt;. 6 damage! If you race and both draw blanks, he will still win. &lt;strong&gt;With Chandra on the board, he actually has a faster clock than yours.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider also why he played her. What did your opponent do last turn? Looks like he played Blackcleave Cliffs tapped, tapped all his basics for Chandra, then +1ed her up to 4 loyalty counters. He did all that stuff based on the same board state as you're seeing now: two creatures and two Intangible Virtues. He had two other cards in hand; these represent alternative options. So, why'd he choose to make &lt;em&gt;this play&lt;/em&gt;? Presumably &lt;strong&gt;he played Chandra because the best line of play available to him includes Chandra; therefore, you should kill her to cut it off&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be a fake-out to buy time, but...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;He's clearly not stalling for mana. He's already got six mana available to him: if he had something big hiding in his hand, he could've just played it already. It's safe to assume Chandra is part of his strongest line of play.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that -- and this is &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; unlikely with a red deck -- both cards in his hand are dead and he's stalling to try to draw some kind of &quot;out&quot; (a card that'll turn the board state in his favor or win the game outright so he doesn't have to care about board state anymore). However, having access to Chandra's copy effect makes many more of his potential topdecks into legitimate outs (e.g. the exact way he burned you out next turn). In this unlikely scenario, your best line of play is &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; to cripple his board and grind out a win.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I did just end up mentioning &quot;outs&quot; anyway, I might as well throw in &quot;control vs. beatdown&quot; theory. Assuming you're playing Township Tokens and his deck isn't heavy with big stuff like Inferno Titan, you've got a stronger endgame. In this situation, you've also got the ability to claim a stronger board position, by killing Chandra. &lt;strong&gt;So, be the control deck!&lt;/strong&gt; Don't let him keep a planeswalker around just because ignoring her makes your super-slow clock a little bit faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-11-14T15:17:16.923" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T15:17:16.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5316" CreationDate="2011-11-14T08:25:41.927" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's even as complicated as the other two (perfectly correct) answers have suggested.  You have no cards in hand and a mediocre board position.  A five turn clock is a far, far cry from a one or two turn clock.  Your opponent's burn deck has two cards in hand and a card that can potentially double up those cards - and with you on a tenuous 9 life no less!  You are in real imminent danger of death at the hands of the planeswalker and there is no possibility that you should leave it unanswered, on the very slim chance that your opponent has nothing in hand and won't draw anything &lt;em&gt;for five turns straight&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, this isn't even a close one.  You are &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; behind in this game position and your only chance of regaining parity is to eliminate Chandra.  Planeswalkers are generally must-answer cards and you need a really good reason not to worry about answering them.  You have no  such reason in the situation given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T08:25:41.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5300" CreationDate="2011-11-14T22:04:06.973" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should almost never let the first mission succeed as a spy. So what if your opponents know that one of the participants is a spy? They don't know which one, and they won't be able to win without figuring out which of you it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By making the first mission fail, you give your opponents fewer opportunities to make mistakes as the game progresses. This greatly outweighs the fact that failing a later mission reveals less information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do need to get your acting skills into high gear immediately after the mission is revealed as a failure, however. You have to pretend it's obvious to you that your mission-mate was a spy, and appear extremely frustrated if the other players side with her. This can be challenging, but you can't afford to sacrifice a victory point to avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2011-11-22T22:41:37.130" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T22:41:37.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5308" CreationDate="2011-11-15T00:52:06.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pass the test, you get a spell card. If you fail the test, you don't. but the Dhol Chants aren't gone. You can drop it by using an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T00:52:06.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5272" CreationDate="2011-11-15T01:17:06.920" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;As answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/faq/basegame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; on the official Settlers of Catan Website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource Cards - Am I obligated to tell my game partners the number of Resource Cards in my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2013" LastEditorUserId="2013" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T22:07:19.053" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T22:07:19.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2011-11-15T08:25:24.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still use descriptive notation, and I can read it, and I also have some old chess books with it.  Algebraic seems to be used about everywhere now much more often; I play on the Internet Chess Club and that is all they use there.  I put in a suggestion for them to have descriptive as an option but they haven't gone that way.  It is like some of the other answerers said here, algebraic is International.  But to answer your question:  yes, I still use it and I like it.  I am in the middle of 4 correspondence games with a friend of mine who lives about 200 miles away.  They are rated games, and we have to use algebraic, but when we talk by phone, I discuss the games in descriptive.  He understands both like I do.  I would say just go with what you feel comfortable with, but algebraic is just about forced on us now.  It is good to know both, in my humble opinion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2014" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T08:25:24.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3990" CreationDate="2011-11-15T08:40:12.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;b4 is the Polish opening and is sound.  g4 is the Grobs or sometimes called &quot;The Spike&quot; and is rarely played because it is risky.  I have never seen h4 or a4 as an opening move except by beginners.  Even when I was a beginner, I opened with those latter two, to try to get my rooks out quickly.  As I learned more about the game, I understood why those two opening moves are not good. It is best when in your beginning stages to open with a center pawn, more likely e4 or d4, until you learn more.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2014" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T08:40:12.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-11-15T09:00:37.550" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule of thumb, Knights are better in closed positions, and Bishops are better in open ones.  Bishops are usually considered slightly better than Knights because they move faster, and you can force mate with 2 Bishops and the lone King vs opponent's lone King; something you cannot force with 2 Knights.  It is really situational.  With as many times as I have missed Knight forks and Knight moves made by my opponents over the years, I never underestimate Knights.  If I am up the exchange, I would rather it be Rook vs. Bishop than Rook vs. Knight.  It really is all situational.  I think the value of 3 points for Bishop and Knight is correct. Although I have seen various books list the Bishop at 3.25 points; 3.5 points; and even as high as 4 points.  Most have Bishop and Knight as 3 points each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2014" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T09:00:37.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4364" CreationDate="2011-11-15T09:45:34.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fast time controls are more current these days.  You can find a lot of 30/30 (each player has 30 moves to make in 30 minutes) and G/30 (each player has 30 minutes to make all of his moves) in over the board tournaments.  Slow time controls are still out there, but with the rise of Internet chess, even over the board tournaments are going with quicker time controls.  On the Internet clubs you can find blitz chess (usually something between 3 and 15 minutes for each player to make all of his moves) and bullet chess (under 3 minutes for each player to make all of his moves); although the Internet allows for slow chess too, it may take a while of waiting, and good deal of patience, to get a game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2014" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T09:45:34.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-15T20:11:10.973" Score="5" ViewCount="1380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love Munchkin Quest, but if you have more than 3 players you tend to get longer games.  I know one way to make games quicker is to reduce everyone's starting moves to 2.  That works ok, but I want to know if there are other ways of reducing the timeframe for playing with more people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-11-16T15:26:16.820" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:57:02.360" Title="How can Munchkin Quest be played quicker?" Tags="|house-rules|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2995" CreationDate="2011-11-15T20:19:39.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no on the sheer fact that so many of the MQ cards play off of the tiles.  You'd have to sift through and take out all of those, and that's just not fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T20:19:39.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-15T21:20:09.710" Score="8" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any good online resources to learn the game. By learn, I mean learn attain the knowledge that one would by buying/reading a good book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, are there any &quot;puzzles&quot; that are well explained that either explain different bidding systems or strategies for playing with the dummy etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2016" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T08:33:21.767" Title="Online resources for learning/practicing bridge" Tags="|bridge|online|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-08-29T21:10:41.623" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5329" CreationDate="2011-11-16T05:32:02.267" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Richard Pavlicek's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; on bridge which has puzzles, articles explaining concepts, bidding systems, calculators etc. A very good free resource.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The now discontinued &lt;a href=&quot;http://bbi.bridgebase.com/dotw/&quot;&gt;deal of the week&lt;/a&gt; by Fred Gitelman which is an over the shoulder type of software. Free. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bridge Master and software by other world class players: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bbi.bridgebase.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi&quot;&gt;http://bbi.bridgebase.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi&lt;/a&gt; (not free, but highly recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T05:32:02.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4509" CreationDate="2011-11-16T17:20:02.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly posting to agree with aramis, but adding in a couple links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/death-angel/minisite/support/death-angel-rulebook-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Official Rules&quot;&gt;Official Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/60303/space-hulk-death-angel-condensed-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Condensed Rules&quot;&gt;Condensed Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your first question, I think the wording on page 27 shows the shift (which includes figuring out the larger side) takes place &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; removing the slain marine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Space Marine is slain (usually by being attacked by a swarm), his&#xA;  card is removed from the formation and returned to the game box. The&#xA;  formation will then need to be shIfTEd (see page 28).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 28 of the official rules, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shifting is resolved by taking every Terrain card, Space Marine card,&#xA;  and Genestealer card in the smaller segment of the formation and&#xA;  moving them (up or down) to fill in the slain Space Marine’s previous&#xA;  position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When shifting, note that it is possible for more than one Terrain card&#xA;  to be in the same position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the example on page 29, it's clear terrain next to a slain space marine in the middle of the formation would stay where it is, and have things moved to it, but in your example the only place for the Corner and Duct to go is down, to Zael's position. Moreover, I believe that first quotation makes it clear the Door and Corridor would stay on Zael's position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T17:20:02.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4703" CreationDate="2011-11-16T17:22:41.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Page 28 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/death-angel/minisite/support/death-angel-rulebook-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Official Rules&quot;&gt;Official Rules&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Space Marine is ever able to move to a non-adjacent position&#xA;  (with a card or ability), he does not cause the formation to shift. He&#xA;  simply switches places with the Space Marine that occupied his new&#xA;  position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T17:22:41.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-11-16T18:14:48.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Michael mentioned this in passing, but it's worth making explicit: a lot of the bishop's endgame value comes from its range, and specifically in circumstances with pawns on either side of the board.  For instance, pawns on b2 and g2 vs. a lone black knight should be a win for the pawns, whereas with a bishop black can straightforwardly capture both pawns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T18:14:48.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-16T21:14:58.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/strong&gt; is closely related, obviously, and can be played normally with one player. It would be better to play as least two investigators (three if you feel like it), as one investigator tends to end in either certain doom or boring steamrolling. (It's also quite cheap and very, very compact compared to Arkham Horror.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1626" LastEditorUserId="128" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T15:23:33.487" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T15:23:33.487" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-16T21:14:58.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2011-11-17T09:04:15.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For chess there are many ways to use both chess playing programs and database programs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play over your own games (you should always record your games, even skittles/fun games, to see where you need to improve) in &quot;infinite analysis&quot; mode (where the computer doesn't make moves, it just evaluates the position and finds the best sequence of moves for both sides) to find moves where you (or your opponent) made tactical mistakes.   When the score changes by more than 1 pawn of value that is usually considered a mistake.   More than 2 or 3 pawns of value change is like loosing a bishop/knight, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I find using a computer program (like Fritz) to analyze my games and to go over master games much more efficient than doing so on a board because you can easily try out different variations and go back to the main line without having to physically move the pieces around on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice technique (one of my favorite uses of a computer): play out theoretically winning positions against the computer to make sure you can always win them.   (Sometimes programs make very silly moves when they're losing by a lot and there aren't many pieces left on the board, but if you set them up to use &quot;endgame tablebases&quot; then they make moves which put up the most resistance).   Practice the basic checkmates until you can do them on auto-pilot.  Practice pawn endings, etc.   Play out master games where one player resigned to see if you can win the 'winning' side.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set up positions from books (especially endgame studies work well), and play them out against the computer, to see if you can win won positions, and draw difficult positions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use database programs to research the openings you like, to see what kind of games arise from various opening move options.   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not only master games, but amateur games from databases are very instructive to go over, to see if you can spot the mistakes and how you would take advantage of them.  You can find large numbers of amateur games on sites like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://team4545league.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://team4545league.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T09:04:15.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-11-17T13:42:46.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great answers here, however there are a couple of factors that I have not seen addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept of &quot;Good bishop&quot; vs. &quot;Bad bishop&quot; has been mentioned, but it is worth clarifying that having most of your pawns on one color is not sufficient to make that color bishop a &quot;bad bishop&quot;.  If the bishop is outside of your pawn perimeter, it can still be quite effective, although its avenues of escape may be somewhat limited.  A &quot;bad bishop&quot; typically refers to one that is trapped within your pawn perimeter, and therefore cannot threaten any of your opponents pieces, and therefore is forced to remain as a very limited defensive capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another key difference between knights and bishops is pinning versus forking.  As has been mentioned, knights are more effective than bishops at forking.  Bishops can fork, but it is far less common than knights forking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, knights are completely unable to pin, or skewer, another piece.  At higher levels of play, where you can safely expect that your opponent will be able to spot potential knight forks, the pin becomes more valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the overall long-range capability of the bishop makes is more valuable in many end-games.  A knight will take several turns to move from one side of the board to another, whereas a bishop can do this in one or two moves.  This puts the knight at a severe disadvantage any time you are trying to put pressure on the king on one side, while trying to cope with an advancing pawn threatening promotion on the other side of board (or pawns on either side of the board, as Steven describes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T13:42:46.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5342" CreationDate="2011-11-18T01:19:55.853" Score="4" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;How have D&amp;amp;D Miniatures been faring in terms of popularity? Has it been decreasing or increasing; slowly or fast? Recently (as in the last year), and if possible, on a broader scale as well. On the internet as a whole, as opposed to local trends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything conclusive within a limited scope is a welcome answer (e.g. number of topics/tags on a given card game site). Also the answer could be solely based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence thought to be representing of a broader trend, such as popularity perceived from internet forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2020" LastEditorUserId="2020" LastEditDate="2011-11-18T14:32:50.180" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:32:29.207" Title="What has been the popularity trend for D&amp;D Miniatures?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5409" CreationDate="2011-11-18T12:51:31.790" Score="10" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in getting a copy of &quot;Twilight Struggle&quot;, having enjoyed &quot;1960: The Making of the President&quot; and seeing that the former is currently the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/browse/boardgame&quot;&gt;top ranked game on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.  It seems that there are two versions that are available to buy new at the moment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2009 Deluxe Edition reprint.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The recently released 2011 Deluxe Edition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/p-347-twilight-struggle-deluxe-edition-2011-reprint.aspx&quot;&gt;available from GMT games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slightly earlier reprint is rather easier for me to get hold of, but I'm having trouble finding out whether there are any significant differences between these editions.  Could anyone here give me an idea of how different the 2011 edition is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T00:37:18.513" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T00:37:18.513" Title="What are the differences between the 2009 and 2011 reprints of Twilight Struggle?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5366" CreationDate="2011-11-18T13:29:08.763" Score="5" ViewCount="3367" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was young, I begged my parents for a subscription to InQuest Gamer (a magazine mostly about collectable card games). I remember reading the articles and learning about new games every month. At the time I played mostly Magic The Gathering, but I was interested in learning/playing other games. The magazine was discontinued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years later, I still have some back issues (my favorite being the one that came with the board game Space Station Zemo - That's right; the magazine came with a board game in it). I was wondering if there are any similar publications. I play all kinds of games (table top RPGs, card games, but mostly board games). I would like to read quality articles talking about games of the past or new games intermixed with other that games would like (InQuest had articles about the history of games, mythology, short stories, house rules, etc.). It doesn't have to be print; I read digital magazines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does a magazine similar to InQuest exist today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1611" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:12:08.953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:12:08.953" Title="Are there any magazines similar to InQuest Gamer in print today?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-01-14T16:14:30.823" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5338" CreationDate="2011-11-18T17:32:29.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last expansion for the game was &lt;em&gt;Lords of Madness&lt;/em&gt; in 2010. The release of the &lt;em&gt;Dragon Collector's Set&lt;/em&gt; this December -— a 5-figure fixed set -- suggests that the future of the line will be in the arena of figures to assist the play of the &lt;em&gt;Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons&lt;/em&gt; RPG. This evidence supports the idea that the &quot;popularity trend&quot; for this game is &lt;strong&gt;declining, if not moribund&lt;/strong&gt;. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://critical-hits.com/2011/08/08/gen-con-2011-dd-new-products-seminar/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards of the Coast has announced&lt;/a&gt; that, in 2012, a new miniatures-based skirmish game will rise to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T17:32:29.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5346" CreationDate="2011-11-18T19:14:46.940" Score="21" ViewCount="52756" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have declared a blocker during the correct phase and during the activate abilities step I choose to tap the blocker to use its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the abilities resolve and now we move to the declare damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the resolution is that the attacking creature remains blocked and that it deals damage to my blocker; however, the blocker does not deal damage to the attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would this change if the blocker had first strike? How would this change if the blocker was sacrificed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-11-19T23:06:20.163" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T02:28:28.013" Title="What is the resolution of tapping a blocking creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2011-11-18T19:38:46.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The value of the pieces depends of course on the position.   I've heard from sources like NM Dan Heisman that knights are considered to be worth closer to 4 pawns right at the start of a game, and that both knights and bishops on average are worth a &quot;tad&quot; more than 3 pawns.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Knights usually rule closed positions (where pawns obscure most or all of the diagonals) while bishops usually are very powerful in wide open positions.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having an untouchable outpost knight (i.e. it can't be threatened by opponent pawns, it is supported by a pawn, on a square of the opposite color of your opponent's only bishop where he has no knights left) deep in opponent territory or even in the center can be worth as much as a rook in some cases because it's very hard to get rid of without giving up the exchange (rook for knight). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Others have already mentioned the bishop pair (having two bishops while your opponent does not have two bishops is called &quot;having the advantage of the bishop pair&quot; and is worth on average about half a pawn).   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And as another tidbit, remember that two bishops + king vs. king can force checkmate while two knights + king vs. king cannot force checkmate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1956" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T19:38:46.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5344" CreationDate="2011-11-18T19:43:21.493" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resolution is the attacking creature remains blocked and the damage resolves the same regardless if the blocking creature is tapped or not. They both do full damage as they normally would, and trigger any effects they normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Blocking creature was removed from play somehow before combat damage was dealt (say it was sacrificed like you asked) then the attacking creature is still blocked and would deal damage to nothing, unless it has trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1g Each chosen creature still controlled by the defending player becomes a blocking creature. Each one is blocking the attacking creatures chosen for it. &lt;strong&gt;It remains a blocking creature until it’s removed from combat or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 506.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. &lt;strong&gt;This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&lt;/strong&gt; A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.2a During the declare blockers step, if a blocking creature is removed from combat or a spell or ability causes it to stop blocking an attacking creature, the blocking creature is removed from all relevant damage assignment orders. The relative order among the remaining blocking creatures is unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1d A blocking creature assigns combat damage to the creatures it’s blocking. If it isn’t &lt;strong&gt;currently blocking any creatures&lt;/strong&gt; (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), &lt;strong&gt;it assigns no combat damage&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-01-14T16:48:14.350" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-20T04:01:31.943" Score="3" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks, and I have a Baby Ninja and a Twisp in hand.&#xA;I play the Baby Ninja, and she attacks again. Can I play Twisp to duplicate the Baby Ninja? It seems like you should be able to, but there is an explicit list in the rule book, that doesn't  cover PVP Defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for clarity: This question relates to Penny Arcade: Gamers Vs Evil and NOT to the Penny Arcade Card Game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-09T04:53:51.783" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T13:10:44.543" Title="Can you Twisp off-turn?" Tags="|penny-arcade-gamers-vs-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5350" CreationDate="2011-11-21T02:59:03.203" Score="13" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our latest session of Mansions of Madness, we allowed Joe Diamond to use his magnifying glass to make two attempts at a rune puzzle. However, at the time and shortly after the completion of the game, we questioned whether this should be allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/658531/joe-diamonds-magnfying-glass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on the Geek stating that &quot;a single investigator may not attempt the same puzzle more than once in a turn,&quot; but since it doesn't reference any specific rule I just wanted to find out whether this is the general consensus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Magnifying Glass card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, immediately after you spend an action to explore a room, you may take 1 additional action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="933" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T17:15:50.783" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T17:15:50.783" Title="Can Joe Diamond attempt to solve a puzzle twice with his magnifying glass?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5349" CreationDate="2011-11-21T04:34:11.943" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One puzzle attempt per turn per investigator is the rule.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, bottom of the first column on page 18 - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each investigator can only attempt the same puzzle once per turn&#xA;  (but multiple investigators may attempt the same puzzle on the&#xA;  same turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T04:34:11.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5353" CreationDate="2011-11-21T12:36:44.703" Score="28" ViewCount="6438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDarksteel%20Colossus%5d&quot;&gt;Darksteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; in play, and I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAttrition%5d&quot;&gt;Attrition&lt;/a&gt; and no creatures. During my turn I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAct%20of%20Treason%5d&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; to gain control of the Colossus and attack with it. So far I haven't done anything controversial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, at this point what I want to do is sacrifice the Colossus to my Attrition, so that my opponent doesn't get him back at the end of the turn. However, Attrition's ability requires a target, and the Colossus is the only potential target on the battlefield. Is it legal to activate the ability and target the Colossus, even though I also want to sacrifice him as part of the ability's cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In other words, can I target a creature with an ability, and also sacrifice that same creature as part of the ability's activation cost?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The ability won't resolve, of course, but that was never the real goal. Normally it would be better to target another of the opponent's creatures, but in this case he doesn't have any, so the Colossus is the only potential target.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T10:29:10.590" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T13:24:13.057" Title="In Magic, can an ability target a permanent that is being sacrificed as part of that ability's activation cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5351" CreationDate="2011-11-21T13:41:08.313" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By CR 508 you perform the Declare Attackers step.  By the text of Act of Treason, the Darksteel Colossus is clearly eligible to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a change of priority, and back and the Declare Blockers step.  By CR 509.2 you declare the attacker's damage assignment order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combat damage step happens per section 510.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At 510.4 you receive priority and can activate Attrition, which is placed on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This resolves during the cleanup step described in 514.3a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a more specific scenario you're trying to understand, please expand on your question and I'll try to expand my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T13:41:08.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5351" CreationDate="2011-11-21T13:47:34.493" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can target one of your permanents with a spell or ability, then sacrifice that permanent to pay for that very spell or ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When casting a spell or activating an ability, you first put it on stack, then choose targets (the creature you are about to sacrifice), then pay all costs (sacrifice the creature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the relevant steps for casting a spell or activating an ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2a The player announces that they are activating the ability. If an activated ability is being activated from a hidden zone, the card that has that ability is revealed. That ability is created on the stack as an object that’s not a card. It becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. Its controller is the player who activated the ability. The ability remains on the stack until it’s countered, it resolves, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2b The remainder of the process for activating an ability is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2b–i. Those rules apply to activating an ability just as they apply to casting a spell. An activated ability’s analog to a spell’s mana cost (as referenced in rule 601.2f) is its activation cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2c The player announces their choice of an appropriate object or player for each target the spell requires. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2f The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h The player pays the total cost in any order. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in a nutshell, first you determine targets, then you pay costs. If all targets (Darksteel Colossus in this case) are illegal by the time the ability would resolve, the ability will fail to resolve, but the sacrifice to pay for the ability was still legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-07-08T13:24:13.057" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T13:24:13.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-21T15:11:49.067" Score="11" ViewCount="5091" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing the Game of Thrones board game and using the Clash of Kings Port rules expansion, I was Stark and my ships in the Narrow Sea were attacked by Baratheon and lost. Baratheon didn't have any swords, so my two ships were still alive, but routed. However, there were no rules describing whether routed ships could enter the port of the same sea, in which I had just lost the battle, or whether I was required to retreat to another sea area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's difficult because the port in the Narrow Sea is controlled by the land area of White Harbor, which I owned, so there's an argument that the routed ships could limp into port. But I could also see Baratheon's view that he won the sea battle and it was a little unfair that I could limp into port in the sea area he has just taken, only for me to recover and attack in the next few rounds, especially after he just defeated me. In fact this is exactly what happened next turn, because there was a mustering and I reclaimed the sea. Baratheon wanted me to retreat into the Shivering Sea, as the ships would have fled the battle after losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the decision would affect the whole game and the deciding player didn't want to decide, we flicked a coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions? Can routed ships limp into a port of the same sea area, or do they have to retreat to another sea area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2025" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T01:42:11.203" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T01:42:11.203" Title="Can routed ships retreat to port in the same sea area?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5354" CreationDate="2011-11-21T16:14:29.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the proviso that I'm not an expert at this game: I don't see any problem with routed ships retreating into a port of the same sea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the base rules, routed troops must retreat into a legal adjacent area.  The Clash of Kings port rules describe Ports as new &quot;special areas between the Land and Sea area&quot;.  From the way your question is stated it seems like your friend has a problem with you retreating into a port &quot;in the sea area he has just taken&quot; - but the port is not technically &lt;em&gt;in&lt;/em&gt; that area, rather between that area and the land.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my initial interpretation would be that the retreat into port is perfectly fair.  Where else would ships attacked just outside their home port retreat to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T16:14:29.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5354" CreationDate="2011-11-21T18:33:56.607" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The port is never considered &quot;part&quot; of the sea area; control of a port depends on whoever controls the land area, and the sea area is merely adjacent.  The ability to use a port despite the adjacent sea area being occupied is probably the most important aspect of ports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/a_game_of_thrones_the_board_game/media/agotfaq.pdf&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Can a fleet that is defeated in a sea area retreat to a friendly Port touching that sea area?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T18:33:56.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5362" CreationDate="2011-11-21T19:49:14.403" Score="4" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to remember the name of a old haunted mansion game I played.  I remember you started in the Foyer and built the mansion as you explored out of mansion tiles.  The tiles were unique because they were elevated to have several different heights.  You were looking for chests/treasure with gold in them.  Once you found them you had to escape the mansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it was just called Haunted Mansion but that doesn't seem to be it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T03:03:33.890" Title="Classic Haunted Mansion Game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2011-11-21T20:32:43.030" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have a variety of options here, and a lot of it depends on partner agreement. How competitive are you when bidding? Some prefer solid bids, some prefer to be more aggressive.  As long as your partner is not going to get upset at a raise w/ 3, a 2 club bid here is fine. I would likely have made the same bid, since you are not vulnerable. This is going with the odds, as the odds are only like 17% that they only have 3 clubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected club length for a 1♣ opener (using &quot;Standard American&quot; guidelines)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3-cards : 17%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4-cards : 26%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-cards : 38%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6-cards : 15%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 cards : 4%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.larryco.com/BridgeArticles/ArticleDetails.aspx?articleID=18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.larryco.com/BridgeArticles/ArticleDetails.aspx?articleID=18&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 2♣ should be fine. What about a negative double? I think a negative double is also an appropriate bid, and possibly a better one. The main determinant is whether or not you consider this hand to be worthy of a negative double. The thought process should probably go: Am I strong enough for a negative double? That is something for you to determine. If the answer is no, then the next question is: Can I bid 2♣. I'd say yes. If you can't bid 2♣ either, then the 3rd answer of pass is probably fine. Some people will bid 1NT, but you don't have a stop, your hand sucks for notrump, and you are at the bottom of what would normally be acceptable pointwise for a 1NT bid. Also, the lead against NT is going to pass through the hand with the spade stop which is even worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize: Negative Double, 2♣, and pass are all viable options. Which is best depends on partnership style and agreements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This is all assuming that you are defining short clubs as 3♣. If you are opening 1♣ with only 2, then you should have 4 to raise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit given some comments: The asker seems to be asking essentially 2 things. 1) Is it okay to raise a minor suit opening (that could be 3) with only 3 card support? Answer imo is a definite yes. 2nd question: What is the appropriate bid for this hand. Answer for that is probably a negative double, unless you don't feel strong enough for a neg double with that hand in which case 2♣ is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2027" LastEditorUserId="2027" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T14:34:28.160" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T14:34:28.160" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5357" CreationDate="2011-11-21T20:45:54.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/10547/betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill&lt;/a&gt; but I think this game is newer than what you are thinking. This came out in 2004. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're describing sounds more like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12867/haunted-house&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haunted House&lt;/a&gt; Which came out in 1962&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you remember what year(s) you played it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastEditorUserId="2022" LastEditDate="2011-11-21T21:54:47.637" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T21:54:47.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5770" CreationDate="2011-11-21T22:31:38.273" Score="2" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Resident Evil Deck Building Game (base set), Ada Wong's level 1 ability allows her to look at the first card in the Mansion and choose to leave it on top or move it to the bottom. It is unclear whether the effect of the Infected would be applied or not, given that there is no actual combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the effect text is obviously inconsequential; the Infected is neither defeated nor revealed so none of the effect text that triggers on defeat or reveal would apply anyway.  However, the Hunter and the Uroboros Aheri cards in the base set both trigger when the Infected in question is &lt;strong&gt;not defeated&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, the text on the Uroboros Aheri card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If this Infected was not defeated, shuffle it into the Mansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Ada's ability doesn't actually &quot;defeat&quot; anything, it's unclear whether the effect text applies at all.  If the card is placed on the bottom of the Mansion and the effect text is skipped entirely, that makes this the only way to guarantee the position of the Uroboros Aheri card without triggering a reshuffle, which just feels wrong to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question lies: &lt;strong&gt;Does Ada's ability bypass the Infected card entirely, effects and all, or would the effects still trigger (when applicable)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:19:46.547" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:19:46.547" Title="Does Ada Wong's Level 1 ability trigger Infected text?" Tags="|resident-evil-deck-building-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5122" CreationDate="2011-11-22T02:58:18.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that I started losing against Torturer a lot less once I started taking Curses more often.  Here's why I think that is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early game, you're going to use the card you buy, and soon, and repeatedly.  Discarding 2 cards in the early game is often the difference between buying a 4-cost and a 5-cost card.  Is it worth losing a VP and getting a useless card in your deck so that you can buy a Market or a Treasury instead of a Caravan or Smithy?  I think so.  I think the answer is often even clearer when the choice is between a 5- and 6-cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Especially&lt;/em&gt; if the card you're buying is one that's going to help you mitigate the fact that the Torturer is going to get played again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the middle game, I'm much more likely to discard.  And the Curse or two that I've picked up, well, they're not a positive good, certainly, but hey, it's easy to make the decision to discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certainly not saying, &quot;Go ahead!  Take Curse with abandon!&quot;  But I think reflexively discarding, especially in the early game, isn't the right answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="162" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T02:58:18.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5357" CreationDate="2011-11-22T03:03:33.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mystery Mansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/586882/mystery-mansion&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/586882/mystery-mansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember playing this game. Interesting idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T03:03:33.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2011-11-22T17:30:06.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will often pick a good card that I'd normally want &gt;1 copy of and try to win without it. This is similar to @lilserf's great answer of picking your 2nd strategy, but a little less harsh. Like that answer, it's polite in that it's not at all obvious that I'm taking a handicap. Also, I can choose card(s) that are particularly annoying, either attack cards or cards that tend to make turns take a long time (e.g. King's Court).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T17:30:06.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-22T18:54:34.280" Score="1" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just picked up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cryptozoic.com/games/penny-arcade-game-gamers-vs-evil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Penny Arcade The Game: Gamers vs. Evil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like sleeving my card games.  What size sleeves should I get for these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I just compared them vs. Dominion, and they're slightly shorter and slightly wider, but I don't know if that's a standard size or what.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:00:16.193" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:00:16.193" Title="What size card sleeves should I buy for Penny Arcade - Gamers vs. Evil?" Tags="|penny-arcade-gamers-vs-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4562" CreationDate="2011-11-22T20:59:01.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the bidding: in rubber bridge you should be more aggressive bidding games, as the 300 or 500 bonus makes a good bet bidding games making 30-40% of the time. Playing MPs you shouldn't settle for games making less that 50% (frequency is the name of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the card play: playing duplicate, overtricks are specially relevant when you are playing a normal contract (3NT+2 vs 3NT+1 may be the difference between an 80% and a 20% in a given board), in rubber bridge the converse is true: making the contract is the main goal. So its not rare to see a good player making a safety play in rubber bridge, but ignoring it (for the chance of an overtric(s)) in MPs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2034" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T20:59:01.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5341" CreationDate="2011-11-22T21:20:52.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking around, I found a couple online magazines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meoplesmagazine.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.meoplesmagazine.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flagshipmagazine.co.uk/index.php?a=home&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flagshipmagazine.co.uk/index.php?a=home&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a list of magazines on the geek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Game_Magazines&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Game_Magazines&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not exactly what I was looking for, but it's better than nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1611" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T21:20:52.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5371" CreationDate="2011-11-22T23:48:12.247" Score="5" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually, in MTG, when you play a card that requires multiple players to do something, like &amp;quot;Each player sacrifices a creature&amp;quot;, players make choices in &amp;quot;APNAP&amp;quot; (active player / non-active player) order (going around the table in normal turn order if it's multiplayer), and then the effect itself happens simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work with hidden information? You'd still choose first, but when do you reveal the hidden information? Take, for instance, an &amp;quot;Everybody discard&amp;quot; effect (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt;): if I activate the ability, I'm supposed to choose a card first — do I immediately show my card to the other players, or do I set it aside face-down until everyone has made a pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T20:39:06.527" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T20:39:06.527" Title="What's the order of resolution for &quot;everybody discard&quot; in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-11-23T01:22:06.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they do stack.  So:  Invisible Stalker + 4 Trepanation Blades = Mind Funeral + scads of damage every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2037" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T01:22:06.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-23T03:41:51.373" Score="12" ViewCount="1939" Body="&lt;p&gt;I downloaded the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zyzzyva.net/&quot;&gt;zyzzyva program&lt;/a&gt; and have been using it to sharpen my anagram solving skills, but it isn't great to learn new words with. I'm probably not using it right, but it seems like there are better ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched a few Scrabble games from the tournament and they of course know all sorts of words. How do they learn them though? What's the best way to go about learning and making sure you retain what you learn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2038" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-11-24T05:42:38.130" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T08:20:19.387" Title="Learning new Scrabble words?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5367" CreationDate="2011-11-23T03:48:30.280" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You go in AP-NAP order around the table to choose a card.  However, the actual act of discarding is considered simultaneous, which means the chosen cards are still in the hand, a hidden zone, until all are chosen.  It is perfectly fine to, for example, set the chosen card aside face down until everyone has chosen one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes&#xA;  any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the&#xA;  player seated to the active player‘s left) makes any choices required,&#xA;  followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the&#xA;  actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the&#xA;  ―Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order‖ rule. Example: A card&#xA;  reads “Each player sacrifices a creature.” First, the active player&#xA;  chooses a creature he or she controls. Then each of the nonactive&#xA;  players, in turn order, chooses a creature he or she controls. Then&#xA;  all creatures chosen this way are sacrificed simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.4a If an effect has each player choose a card in a hidden zone, such as his or her hand or library, those cards may remain face down&#xA;  as they‘re chosen. However, each player must clearly indicate which&#xA;  face-down card he or she is choosing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T03:48:30.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5370" CreationDate="2011-11-23T05:58:17.237" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learning and retaining a bunch of words is easy; any basic flashcard system can help you do that.  However, all those fancy Scrabble words you stuff into your brain won't help you win any tournaments unless you can get them back out again on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky part isn't retention, it's recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, ideally, you want to start learning new words when you're about five or six years old, and just read absolutely everything you can get your tiny little hands on.  Fiction, non-fiction, poetry, what have you.  That will give you a few decades of practice with your vocabulary, which you can then pull out at your leisure when you're ready to hit the world of serious Scrabble.  All the best players I've met have been avid readers for most of their lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, not everyone lives in an ideal world.  Sometimes you're stuck being twenty years too old to start afresh; you have to play the tiles life deals you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worry not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned earlier, learning the words is easy.  Write all the words you want to learn on flashcards.  Read through a dozen or so at a time (your mileage may vary, adjust according to taste and local custom), wait a few minutes, then try to write them all back down again.  Lather, rinse, repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once they're in your brain, they're pretty much in there for good.  However, in order to pull them out at will, you need to use them.  Use them a lot.  Use them every chance you get; the more avenues of attack you open up, the easier it is to recall them later.  Write words down.  Say them out loud.  Read them back.  Translate them into Spanish.  Model them out of Play-doh.  Be creative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used the Zyzzyva program myself, but it sounds like an excellent resource for developing recall.  You don't want to limit yourself to only the one system though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional method of learning new words, one which will have English teachers worldwide nodding their heads, is the simple yet effective &quot;Use it in a sentence.&quot;  This may not always be the easiest route, especially when dealing with the wonderfully archaic words Scrabble professionals so know and love, but it's a great starting point.  Try to work whatever words you learn into your daily conversation; don't concern yourself with the fact that you now sound like a total nerd, that's just a sacrifice you'll need to make.  This is Scrabble we're talking about here.  Serious business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another effective tool is to do a lot of word games.  A LOT of word games.  Do the word search and the crossword puzzle in your local newspaper.  Go to your local magazine rack, they almost always have a huge tome that says something like &quot;Super Giant Book of Awesome Word Puzzles&quot;.  Buy one and solve them all.  It'll be worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I personally use is to do a normal crossword puzzle one day, and then the next day I pull out a sheet of graph paper and redo the puzzle entirely from memory as a diagramless.  Effective, but not for the faint of heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, learn all the two-letter words.  It's crazy how useful those can be when you're playing combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T05:58:17.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4830" CreationDate="2011-11-23T09:30:30.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but that's if you're playing the English variant.  In that variant, each player chooses how much to contribute to the defense of Catan.  A player isn't allowed to defend Catan if they have no cities, thus no-one can win and get a reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastEditorUserId="2040" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T11:44:55.767" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T11:44:55.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2011-11-23T09:40:32.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Oxcon, games have a 1-minute timer available.  If you think someone is taking too long, you can force them to conclude their turn within a minute.  This works well, and games rarely take longer than an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, get a DGT cube or equivalent smartphone app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T09:40:32.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2011-11-23T09:49:19.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diplomacy.  During the mid game, constantly point out how badly you are doing, encouraging others to trade with you in preference to other players - even offering you better deals.  This can allow you to develop a couple of settlements and get back in the game while the others are playing stop-the-leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T09:49:19.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5383" CreationDate="2011-11-23T09:55:30.533" Score="23" ViewCount="2896" Body="&lt;p&gt;People often say you should go for number diversity in your initial settlements.  Obviously having higher-probability numbers is good, but is 6-9-4 and 8-5-10 really better than 8-5-10 and 8-5-10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say having repeated numbers is better, as it allows you to get your resources in a clump, allowing quick and surprising expansion.  Often I've won a game this way from 8VPs, whilst others are on 9VPs and no-one is trading with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does playing cities &amp;amp; knights make a difference to your opinion, where the Green bonus of a free resource makes my strategy even stronger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:42:45.607" Title="Is number diversity really important?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2011-11-23T11:40:32.190" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number diversity is only part of the initial placing assessment where you also need to consider how you are going to win the game.  Are you going for a brick / wood strategy or a wheat / ore strategy.  The resources on the common numbers need to be complimentary resources and back your overall strategy or else there is little benefit in having common numbers (in this case having common numbers is probably a disadvantage).  The best complimentary resources in my opinion are ore and wheat followed by wood and brick.  An example of very weak complimentary resources is brick and ore or brick and sheep.  Your example is a little extreme with every number being doubled up and I would prefer a constant stream of resources than periods of feast then famine.  A constant stream of resources is important as in the beginning part of the game resource production grows exponentially tailing off in the later part of the game and it is important to not get behind the curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion I would value a common number on wheat and ore on a good number (5s, 6s, 8s or 9s) highly and with the right dice it could win the game easily.  I once saw a situation where a player had engineered a position where rolling a 10 got the player 3 ore and 2 wheat.  Two tens rolled very close together and the game effectively ended.  However, good number coverage on complimentary resources is generally preferable.  In general I think complimentary resources are the key element to initial placement which seems to get overlooked by a lot of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the effect of the aqueduct in cities and knights on my overall thinking would not make a considerable difference.  The effect of the aqueduct would make me consider more whether to go a brick/wood strategy or a wheat/ore strategy rather than number placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastEditorUserId="1783" LastEditDate="2011-11-23T13:05:58.543" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T13:05:58.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="616" CreationDate="2011-11-23T13:56:05.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The King's Indian is a hypermodern opening, where Black deliberately allows White control of the centre with his pawns, with the view to subsequently challenging it with the moves ...e5 or ...c5.  The Queen's Indian Defense, also a hypermodern opening, is defined by the moves 1. d4 Nf6 2. c4 e6 3. Nf3 b6  The move 3...b6 increases Black's control over the central light squares e4 and d5 by preparing to fianchetto the queen's bishop, with the opening deriving its name from this manoeuvre. As in the other Indian defenses, Black attempts to control the center with their pieces, instead of occupying it with their pawns in classical style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2014" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T13:56:05.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5144" CreationDate="2011-11-23T14:40:02.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone so far is correct, I am only entering another answer to paste in the rules, because they wouldn't fit in a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically since it is a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;, as AndSoYouCode points out, they just all get addded to the stack and then the stack empties doing each effect one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing is specifically mentioned about duplicate cards, just check for everything that triggers on the event and add it to the stack in APNAP order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. &lt;strong&gt;Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack&lt;/strong&gt; as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. See rule 116, “Timing and Priority.” The ability becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on the stack until it’s countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b &lt;strong&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T14:40:02.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2011-11-23T17:34:39.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also use the accelerated start: instead of placing two towns and two roads, you start placing (with the usual order): 1 town + 1 road, 1 city + 1 road, 1 road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rules made the game notably faster in my usual gaming group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2034" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T17:34:39.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2011-11-23T19:19:11.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an abstract level, numbers diversity is preferable because it guarantees consistency, which enables more strategic play: if you've got a reliable trickle of resources coming it, it's easier to plan your development (Do I have the resource supply to go for a dev card strategy? Can I successfully race this other player to claim the port we both want, or is it not worth trying? If I build a city right now, am I going to be able to expand outward fast enough to avoid getting hemmed in?). Some players thrive on improvisation and surprise, though, and I can see them doing just as well with feast-or-famine placement. That means voluntarily becoming the underdog, in a sense -- but it's a totally practical move if you don't think you can beat the other players (either because of a skills gap or because their initial setup is stronger than any you could claim). If the most likely result of slow-and-steady play is that you'll just get more and more behind, you might as well gamble on an unbalanced setup!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just mechanically speaking, Settlers has mechanics that specifically hose holding lots of resource cards at once (7s, Monopoly), so getting your resources all in one go puts you at risk for disruption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the deciding factor is trading. Whichever approach you adopt, trades with other players do a lot to smooth out your early development. Some tables tend to clamp down and try to starve you out when they see that your development is likely to gradually outpace their own; others tend to be intimidated by big plays rather than overall board position. If the strategy you adopt costs you a lot of trading opportunities, it's probably going to be inferior in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My overall intuition is that a good numbers spread is a generally better choice, but not as important as the right resource mixture or access to &quot;good&quot; numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T19:19:11.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2011-11-23T20:20:01.313" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5382/30&quot;&gt;Alex P's answer&lt;/a&gt; touches upon an interesting philosophical angle to this question. Suppose there are two strategies of game play in a four player game. Strategy A will reliably give you &quot;good performance&quot; (whatever that means for the current game - say 100 points) if carried out well; strategy B, if carried out well, gives you &quot;bad performance&quot; in 60% of your games (say 60 points) and &quot;exceptionally good performance&quot; 40% of the games (say 110 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this (fictional) game, strategy A gives you better performance on average, but it may give you a lower probability of ending up in first place: in an environment where your three fellow players also play A, the game will be a toss up and strategy A will win you 25% of games, all other factors being equal, whereas strategy B will win you 40% of games. If your three fellow players play B, then strategy A will win only if all three of them have bad luck - less than 22% probability - and strategy B will turn it into a toss up again, so 25% wins. In both cases, strategy B will give you a higher probability of ending up in first place than strategy A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus we see that even a relatively small chance of a relatively small improvement of your score over the alternative strategy may be worth a large risk of a really bad score - if all you care about is ending up first. However, you may prefer doing relatively well compared to your peers for certain, to having a slightly higher chance of winning overall but also a higher chance of ending up dead last. In that case, strategy A is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this apply to your question? Even if we leave the social aspects of the game aside (where players are more likely to impede further success of already successful players), going for clumped-up bunches of resources has some of the properties of strategy B: if you can ensure a steady trickle of resources, you will do well, but if you gamble the same number of settlements on a few numbers and they happen to come up more often, you will do even better - at the risk of losing badly if the dice don't go your way. Thus my answer is: all else being equal, spread the numbers if your objective is to do relatively well; concentrate the numbers if your objective is to have the highest chance of winning, and you're willing to accept a high risk of ending up last. (The key phrase in that sentence is &quot;all else being equal&quot;, of course - in practice this consideration should be only one of many arguments when weighing different courses of action against one another.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T20:20:01.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5385" CreationDate="2011-11-23T21:42:40.717" Score="4" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Quebec, Canada, we have a card game called &lt;em&gt;Paquet Voleur&lt;/em&gt;. This roughly translates to &lt;em&gt;pile thief&lt;/em&gt;. Basically, each player has cards in his hand and there are cards on the table. The goal is to make pairs of cards with one card from your hand and one card on the table. You then put that pair, face up, in your &quot;pile&quot;. The twist is that people can make pairs with the top card on your pile and take your whole pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this game solely exist in Quebec? I'm trying to find the English name for it if not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2043" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T22:29:32.763" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T22:29:32.763" Title="What is the French  card game Paquet Voleur called in English?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5384" CreationDate="2011-11-23T23:12:18.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/fishing/bundle.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stealing Bundles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-11-23T23:12:18.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5388" CreationDate="2011-11-24T09:50:52.157" Score="11" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a graphics project for school and the task is to design a board game. I need to work out a system by which two players can simultaneously make a secret choice between two options and then present their choice at the same time. I have thought about making a little arrow that can be spun around and then moved by the player to the choice they want to pick, hidden behind a screen, but it just feels a bit messy. And using cards that can be placed down seems to be a flawed system because as soon as one card becomes scratched and identifiable the whole game becomes unplayable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really appreciate any suggestions you may have as to how to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2044" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:31:29.757" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:37:24.583" Title="System for secretly choosing between two options?" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2011-11-24T10:24:48.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the choices are always the same (Always YES/NO, for example), the simpliest ways to do that are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each players has two cards, one saying &lt;strong&gt;YES&lt;/strong&gt;, the other one saying &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt; (Or whatever choice you have). They make choices by playing a card face down and revealing them all at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player has a coin of some sort that can be placed in one's hand. &lt;strong&gt;YES&lt;/strong&gt; is on one side and &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt; on the other (…). They make choices by puting it in their hand and opening them at once, the face up being their choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the choices are always different (YES/NO sometimes, RED/BLUE or PINGUIN/ZEBRA sometimes), the best way is to have on your board a place for cards with numbers next to each place. (Fig 1.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;------&#xA;|    |&#xA;|    | 1&#xA;|    |&#xA;------&#xA;&#xA;------&#xA;|    |&#xA;|    | 2&#xA;|    |&#xA;------&#xA;&#xA;Fig 1.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must then have a deck of cards with propositions on them (YES, NO, BLUE, RED, …) and put one on each place.&#xA;The players each have two cards or a coin, one card/face saying &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;, the other one saying &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;. Use the same technique as above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; using cards, you can raise the number of possible choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T10:24:48.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2011-11-24T12:34:45.497" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player puts a coin on the table under their hand.  This will work perfectly if it's always the same two options, or if you can easily determine a sensible mapping from head/tails to the available two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T12:34:45.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2011-11-24T17:14:28.850" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When trying to make something new, it is not a bad idea to see what award winning games have already done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may wish to see the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dixit_(card_game)&quot;&gt;Dixit&lt;/a&gt; (Spiel Des Jahres 2010) which has a simple system to let 2 to 4 players simultaneously choose between 3 and 5 options.  The 2 option variant is Oltarus's method.  Dixit also has wonderful artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/92828/dixit-odyssey&quot;&gt;Dixit Odyssey&lt;/a&gt; solves the similar problem for 3-12 players. Its method is fairly similar to xorsyst's method.  The choice is indicated by placing a peg in a hole. The peg is too stiff to be altered while under the hand, and so one is sure the commitment has been made while the player is covering the pegs with his hand.  I would not suggest using the coin method with magicians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apples_to_Apples&quot;&gt;Apples to Apples&lt;/a&gt; requires players to simultaneously commit to an adjective.  This is done by playing cards face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these games avoid the temptation of marked cards by having several reasonable quality cards.  For instance, you can have 5 different &quot;1st option&quot; and 5 different &quot;2nd option&quot; cards, each with unique artwork.  This allows more expressive play while also meaning a player can avoid a marked card if he actually suspects the other player is looking for such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In online games (irrelevant to your project, but possibly relevant to other readers), this problem is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commitment_scheme&quot;&gt;commitment scheme&lt;/a&gt; and is a very important cryptographic problem (that has been solved in several ways, some easy and some amazingly secure).  The Yes/No variant is called bit-commitment or &quot;virtual coin flipping&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2047" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T17:14:28.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5364" CreationDate="2011-11-24T21:41:12.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the producer site (Fantasy Flight Games) you will see that you can use their 2 1/2&quot; x 3 1/2&quot; (63.5 x 88 MM) card sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=88&amp;amp;esem=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; you can see that you can use 3 packs of their Standard Card Game Sleeves (grey color packs) and on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=86&amp;amp;esem=2&amp;amp;esum=123&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; you will see the card sleeves sold by them (the last product from the list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another card sleeves producer is Mayday Games. I think that their corresponding card sleeves are named &quot;Card Game Sleeves&quot; (2 1/2&quot; x 3 1/2&quot; (63.5 x 88 MM)) - green pack. I am pretty sure but you can visit their site. They have a pdf file where you can search for your game and see what kind of sleeves you need. IMPORTANT: Today I see that their site is consider by google as threat because they find malicious software, so I think is not a good idea to enter wright now on their page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultrapro.com/index.php?cPath=64_68&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ultra pro sleeves&lt;/a&gt; but i don't know exactly what kind you should search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2049" LastEditorUserId="33" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T18:00:22.357" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T18:00:22.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2011-11-25T19:53:11.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards&lt;/strong&gt; - don't worry about scratches - many serious players sleeve cards these days. It's the most familiar choice. And if the cards are business card sized, they can be hidden in hand or under a hand on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spinners&lt;/strong&gt; - not used all that often, however, the mold marks on the back of the spinner may be visible if using the commercial arrows; using a double disk the result can be inferred by watching the pre-choice state and counting the rotations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've &quot;read&quot; people's choices in both Dune (double disk) and in El Grande.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;dice&lt;/strong&gt; - also not used all that often, a die with the choices marked as symbols is quite viable; if the choice is reduced to numbers, it's also cheap. It's a bit fiddly, tho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;dreidle&lt;/strong&gt; - since dreidles are essentially dice, the same issues apply, except that, having only one axis along which choices are made, it's easier to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mat and screen&lt;/strong&gt; - a mat with the choices marked, and a small marker to be placed upon that mat, with a movable screen - it's got the advantage of being easy to work, and very clear. It also provides a place for faction/side identification and/or cool art, as well as gameflow information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marker choice&lt;/strong&gt; - player takes set of markers in hand, picks correct one&#xA;I've used this in SFB for fire declarations. Cumbersome for many, due to half-inch square 1mm thick counters being the mode. Similar issues to cards, but since the counters could be hidden under the hand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T20:44:51.163" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T20:44:51.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2011-11-25T20:06:07.293" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Number diversity is important - the best play is always with diverse numbers - but isn't the sole factor in winning. Diverse numbers gives you mimimum down-time, and maximizes income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diverse resources on those numbers are essential, as well, most of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use of 2:1 ports can mitigate concentrated resources, especially wheat if one as the wheat 2:1 and a concentration of wheat on good numbers. With the &quot;standard&quot; numbers layout for beginning games it's less important, but with the optional randomized number placement, and random tile placement, some spectacular ugliness can occur...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once won as I had 5,6,8 on three adjacent wheat, and 6,8,9 on a wood, wheat and a brick. I was able to get to a wheat port in a couple turns, too. I was able to (due to some luck) build a city on turn 2 on the wheat. Turn 5 I had a wheat port... game was over by turn 20, and I'd won hands down... because I had a wheat port, and multiple cities on that wheat (which said, 2 of the tiles were map-edge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's important, but only as one of several components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T00:53:55.780" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T00:53:55.780" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5395" CreationDate="2011-11-25T23:56:54.197" Score="10" ViewCount="1699" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evil%20Twin&quot;&gt;Evil Twin&lt;/a&gt; entering the battlefield under my control, and my opponent controls an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20of%20the%20Wild&quot;&gt;Essence of the Wild&lt;/a&gt;. I choose the Essence as the creature that the Twin will copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Evil Twin enters the battlefield, what will it look like? What abilities will it have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, when I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diregraf%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Diregraf Ghoul&lt;/a&gt; after all that, what will it look like? What abilities will it have? Does it enter the battlefield tapped or untapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T16:31:39.603" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T16:31:39.603" Title="What does an Evil Twin of an opponent's Essence of the Wild look like?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5393" CreationDate="2011-11-26T00:20:38.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: My bad, I answered the wrong question.  The OP clearly stated he wanted to know what happened when you copy an opponent's Essence with Evil Twin.  I leave this answer here just in case anyone wants to know the answer to another question possibly implied by the title, what happens when you try to cast Evil Twin with an Essence of your own in play!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Evil Twin will be a 6/6 Essence of the Wild with the ability &quot;Creatures you control enter the battlefield as a copy of Essence of the Wild&quot;.  The Diregraf Ghoul, also, will enter the battlefield untapped as a 6/6 Essence of the Wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the following rulings on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=254133&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Gatherer entry for Essence of the Wild&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;9/22/2011:    If a creature such as Clone is entering the battlefield under your control, there will be two copy effects to apply: the creature's own and Essence of the Wild's. No matter what order these effects are applied, the creature will be a copy of Essence of the Wild when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;9/22/2011:    Other enters-the-battlefield replacement abilities printed on the creature entering the battlefield won't be applied because the creature will already be Essence of the Wild at that point (and therefore it won't have those abilities). For example, a creature that normally enters the battlefield tapped will enter the battlefield as an untapped Essence of the Wild, and a creature that would normally enter the battlefield with counters on it will enter the battlefield as an Essence of the Wild with no counters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T12:14:51.993" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T12:14:51.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5393" CreationDate="2011-11-26T01:13:43.910" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the Twin enters the battlefield as a modified copy of the Essence. It's a green 6/6 Avatar named “Essence of the Wild” that costs 3GGG and has two abilities. These are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;“Creatures you control enter the battlefield as a copy of [this] Essence of the Wild.”&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;“UB, T: Destroy target creature with the same name as this creature.”&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not blue or black, and it's not a Shapeshifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Diregraf Ghoul would come into play, two replacement effects are relevant. One is a copy effect that causes it to become Essence of the Wild, and one is a regular effect that causes it to become tapped. Rule 616.1 specifies that the copy effect is applied first. Once the copy is applied, the creature no longer has Diregraf Ghoul's text, so the tap effect ceases to exist and is never applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;616.1. If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object‘s controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;616.1c If any of the replacement and/or prevention effects would cause an object to become a copy of another object as it enters the battlefield, one of them must be chosen. If not, proceed to rule 616.1d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;616.1d Any of the applicable replacement and/or prevention effects may be chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;616.1e Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated (taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable) until there are no more left to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diregraf Ghoul comes into play as a copy of your evil Essence of the Wild. It has all the characteristics of your evil Essence, including the &lt;em&gt;destroy-same-name&lt;/em&gt; ability and the name “Essence of the Wild”. This is because characteristics modified by a copy effect are themselves copyable (706.9a). It has none of the characteristics of Diregraf Ghoul. It's not black, and it's not a Zombie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.9a Some copy effects cause the copy to gain an ability as part of the copying process. This ability becomes part of the copiable values for the copy, along with any other abilities that were copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have two copies of Essence of the Wild, both with the extra ability granted by Evil Twin. Your opponent's Essence probably doesn't have long to live!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="1723" LastEditDate="2011-11-26T01:43:12.363" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T01:43:12.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5397" CreationDate="2011-11-26T02:59:39.833" Score="7" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text for the Scientific Cooperation &lt;em&gt;Pact&lt;/em&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every time one of the civilizations plays a technology, it pays 2&#xA;  science less and the other civilization pays 1 science.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if the other civilization has zero accumulated science? Does the tech-playing civilization still get the 2 science discount, or does the pact have no effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T03:48:38.240" Title="Can Scientific Cooperation happen when there's no science to share?" Tags="|through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5396" CreationDate="2011-11-26T03:48:38.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually fell into this trap in a game, and was surprised at the rules.  If the other civilization can't pay, you can't develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/426786/scientific-cooperation-pact&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;asked on BGG&lt;/a&gt;, and the rule that covered it was also discussed there- it's on the last page of the rules, i.e. on pg. 20 under &lt;code&gt;Scientific Cooperation&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one civilization has no science points, neither civilization can&#xA;  play a technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1029" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T03:48:38.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5122" CreationDate="2011-11-26T16:09:01.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add on Jon's last point: I also consider taking the curse in a 3-4 player game if more than one other play with the Torturer, and the current Torturer got played by the player playing directly after me. Then there's a good likelihood more Torturers are coming in one round, so the curses I draw for the first 1-2 players, I can discard with the next Torturer and I keep my current move. Of course, all what has been said in the other answers about balancing your current move versus weakening one's deck have to be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I notice everybody going for the Torturer (it seems many people go for it once the first Torturer got bought), then I try to keep track of the times of shuffling of the others, and how many Torturers are still in their deck. And if there are lots of them yet to come, I'll &lt;strong&gt;take the curse&lt;/strong&gt;, so I've got something to &lt;strong&gt;discard in the same round&lt;/strong&gt; when the next Torturer is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players are so fond of Torturers they combine them with Villages or other action multipliers. It really pays off then to try to estimate the Torturers still remaining in the other players' decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1967" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T16:09:01.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5400" CreationDate="2011-11-27T05:55:57.573" Score="12" ViewCount="2224" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if my opponent activates &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247421&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tree of Redemption&lt;/a&gt; and I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=208253&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twisted Image&lt;/a&gt; with the life-exchange ability on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the comp rules, these seem most relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.8a&lt;/strong&gt; A spell or ability may instruct players to exchange something (for example, life totals or    control of two permanents) as part of&#xA;  its resolution. When such a spell or ability resolves, if the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  entire exchange can’t be completed, no part of the exchange occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;If a spell attempts to exchange control of two target creatures but one of those&#xA;             creatures is destroyed before the spell resolves, the spell does nothing to the other&#xA;             creature.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source.    Destruction or removal of the source&#xA;  after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some    abilities&#xA;  cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Sorcerer deals&#xA;  1 damage to    target creature or player”) rather than the ability&#xA;  doing anything directly. In these cases, any    activated or triggered&#xA;  ability that references information about the source because the&#xA;  effect    needs to be divided checks that information when the ability&#xA;  is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it    will check that information&#xA;  when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the&#xA;  zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information&#xA;  is used. The source can still    perform the action even though it no&#xA;  longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the entire exchange ability countered because the Tree is dead by the time it resolves? Or do we use the &quot;last known state&quot; (toughness 0), thereby killing its controller?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:35:50.670" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:35:50.670" Title="Can a well-timed Twisted Image kill a player using Tree of Redemption?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5399" CreationDate="2011-11-27T07:04:38.347" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247421&quot;&gt;Oracle&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9/22/2011 If Tree of Redemption isn't on the battlefield when the&#xA;  ability resolves, the exchange can't happen and the ability will have&#xA;  no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is consistent with the golden rule that if one rule says a thing can happen and another says it can't, can't wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T07:04:38.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5402" CreationDate="2011-11-27T13:22:44.853" Score="12" ViewCount="60410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been casually playing Magic with a friend, about twice a month, for the last 3 months, and the phrase &quot;until end of turn&quot; has always puzzled me, particularly on effects that give +1/+1 (for example, shades). Whose end of turn is meant by the ability? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, imagine I used a shade's ability to boost it from 2/2 to 4/4 during my attack phase, and it were blocked, taking 2 damage. Will its toughness drop down to 2, and its health respectively to 0, the moment the enemy turn begins, or will it remain at 4 toughness and 2 health until the end of my enemy's turn and thus undergo regeneration? What if the same situation occurred, except the ability used was not the shade's ability, but Giant Growth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T16:34:51.107" Title="When is &quot;end of turn&quot; in Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5401" CreationDate="2011-11-27T16:34:51.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In modern-day Magic rules, every player's turn has a phase called the &quot;end phase&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last step of the end phase is to remove all &quot;until end of turn&quot; effects and all damage simultaneously. So your Shade will heal up and shrink down at the same time, allowing it to stay alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the definition from the comp rules (with a summary below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;512.&lt;/strong&gt; Ending Phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;512.1. The ending phase consists of two steps: end and cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;513.&lt;/strong&gt; End Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;513.1. First, all abilities that trigger “at the beginning of the end step” or “at the beginning of the next&#xA;         end step” go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;513.1a Previously, abilities that trigger at the beginning of the end step were printed with the trigger&#xA;             condition “at end of turn.” Cards that were printed with that text have received errata in the&#xA;             Oracle card reference to say “at the beginning of the end step” or “at the beginning of the next&#xA;             end step.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;513.2. Second, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;513.3. If a permanent with an ability that triggers “at the beginning of the end step” enters the&#xA;         battlefield during this step, that ability won’t trigger until the next turn’s end step. Likewise, if a&#xA;         delayed triggered ability that triggers “at the beginning of the next end step” is created during this&#xA;         step, that ability won’t trigger until the next turn’s end step. In other words, the step doesn’t “back&#xA;         up” so those abilities can go on the stack. This rule applies only to triggered abilities; it doesn’t&#xA;         apply to continuous effects whose durations say “until end of turn” or “this turn.” (See rule 514,&#xA;         “Cleanup Step.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;514.&lt;/strong&gt; Cleanup Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.1. First, if the active player’s hand contains more cards than his or her maximum hand size    (normally seven), he or she discards&#xA;  enough cards to reduce his or her hand size to that number.    This&#xA;  turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.2. Second, the following actions happen simultaneously: all damage marked on permanents    (including phased-out permanents) is removed&#xA;  and all “until end of turn” and “this turn” effects end.    This&#xA;  turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.3. Normally, no player receives priority during the cleanup step, so no spells can be cast and no    abilities can be activated.&#xA;  However, this rule is subject to the following exception:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.3a At this point, the game checks to see if any state-based actions would be performed and/or&#xA;         any triggered abilities are waiting to be put onto the stack (including those that trigger “at the&#xA;         beginning of the next cleanup step”). If so, those state-based actions are performed, then those&#xA;         triggered abilities are put on the stack, then the active player gets priority. Players may cast&#xA;         spells and activate abilities. Once the stack is empty and all players pass in succession, another&#xA;         cleanup step begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when neither you or your opponent(s) have any more actions to take during your post-combat main phase, the game goes to the end phase. First you deal with any &quot;at the beginning of the end step&quot; triggers, and players get a last chance to cast Instants and activate abilities -- so this gives your opponent one last chance to, say, Lightning Bolt the Shade, although if you have mana open you will be able to pump it up or Giant Growth it in response, as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you go to cleanup, which is like the real end of your turn. First, if it's your turn that's ending, you discard any cards above your maximum hand size (normally 7); note that you'll never need to discard at the end of someone else's turn. Then all damage is erased and all &quot;until end of turn&quot; effects expire &lt;em&gt;simultaneously&lt;/em&gt;. In your example, this means the Shade would go from being a pumped-up 4/4 creature with 2 damage marked on it to its normal 2/2 self with 0 damage marked on it. &lt;strong&gt;There is never a time when your creature's &quot;until end of turn&quot; effects will expire with damage still on the creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you played a special card that says &quot;end the turn&quot;, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=228118&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;, then &quot;at the beginning of the end step&quot; triggers won't take effect at all this turn, but you still do the cleanup stuff like discarding down to 7 and removing damage and &quot;until end of turn&quot; effects.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T16:34:51.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4" CreationDate="2011-11-27T17:38:55.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think some great games have been named, but we should not forget &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peg_solitaire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(Peg) Solitaire&lt;/a&gt;, one of the best known games made specifically for just one player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2059" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T17:38:55.760" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-11-27T17:38:55.760" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2011-11-27T18:00:50.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now my solution to this is to add special exceptions to cards like Call of the Haunted, so that they or the monster they summon cannot be targeted by magic cards within the same turn as their activation. Would that fix the problem of trap card balance? Are there any problems with my proposed system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably overpowered, it would bring many new problems since it will create quite a few interesting combo's abusing the magic-immunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I like the phases as they are, altough I can understand that they can be a nuisance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea: Change all 'This card can only activate during Main Phase 1' cards to 'This card can only activate before an attack is declared' (of course the same for cards that say that they CANNOT activate in MP1, etc.).&#xA;Change all Attack Phase affected cards to 'Cards that can/cannot/can only/etc activate while attacks are being declared', cards affecting MP2 to 'after attacks have been declared' and cards referring the End Phase to 'At the end of your turn' or 'Before the opponent draws a card'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2059" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T18:00:50.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5248" CreationDate="2011-11-27T20:27:51.390" Score="26" Body="&lt;h1&gt;The short version&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gifts Ungiven was &amp;mdash; and is &amp;mdash; popular because &lt;strong&gt;it's one of the most powerful and flexible tutor cards in Magic&lt;/strong&gt;, thanks to its ability to find &lt;em&gt;multiple&lt;/em&gt; relevant cards for just 4 mana, at instant speed. In practice, the card is much more powerful than it looks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent's choice is not a meaningful disadvantage: &lt;strong&gt;it's easy to render the opponent's choice practically meaningless&lt;/strong&gt;, using functional equivalents or Regrowth effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Putting cards in your graveyard is actually a desirable feature of the card&lt;/strong&gt;, not a disadvantage: it's fairly easy to build decks that efficiently reuse cards in your graveyard; it's very easy to cheat on costs when you do that, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tutoring for multiple cards is super-powerful: &lt;strong&gt;Gifts is exceptionally good at setting up combos and engines&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The long version&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gifts Ungiven isn't just any tutor card. Sure, it costs the same as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiabolic%20Tutor%5d&quot;&gt;Diabolic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;, with the following added bonuses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gifts is an &lt;strong&gt;instant-speed&lt;/strong&gt; tutor in blue, the best &quot;draw-go&quot; color. You don't have to tap out on your own turn to cast Gifts. Instead, you can keep your mana open, ready to counter any important plays your opponent makes, and then play Gifts whenever it's convenient.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gifts gives you &lt;strong&gt;more than one card&lt;/strong&gt;. That's always good, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's at least as good as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMystical%20Teachings%5d&quot;&gt;Mystical Teachings&lt;/a&gt; (also an instant-speed tutor with built-in card advantage &amp;mdash; one that saw tournament play during Time Spiral Standard and later in Modern). But it's way better than that, too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gifts give you four cards. Not two cards, &lt;em&gt;four&lt;/em&gt; cards &amp;mdash; it's just that two of them will end up in your graveyard. And you get all those cards at the same time, which makes it an amazing combo tutor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent gets to control which cards go where, but, with careful deck-building and skillful play, &lt;strong&gt;you can get much more power from the card by effectively removing your opponent's meaningful choices&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Functional equivalents&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the least, Gifts allows you to tutor for four cards and get the third and fourth best ones for the current situation into your hand. That's pretty powerful by itself, though it relies on building a deck that even &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; a third and fourth best card for many situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way to get that effect is to run one-ofs of a bunch of very similar cards, so that your &quot;third best&quot; card is basically the same as your &quot;best&quot; card. Here's the classic example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;I'm using general examples rather than all Kamigawa-block ones because it's much easier to think about what's good in general Magic than in the rather idiosyncratic world of any set's Block Constructed.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9B2rp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Day of Judgment&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Llawy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wrath of God&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fOjIp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Damnation&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jaxYm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Path to Exile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of those cards will end up in your hand. &lt;em&gt;Three&lt;/em&gt; of them are 4-drop sweepers. So, whatever your opponent picks, you're guaranteed at least one sweeper in your hand. (The fourth card could be anything, in this case &amp;mdash; Path to Exile just fits because you can use it to answer a creature your opponent plays after the wrath.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Regrowth effects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running lots of functional equivalents takes up a lot of space in your deck. This isn't too bad for the sweepers example above, since decks often run three of four wraths anyway. When you've got one particular, functionally-unique card you really want, though, or a niche case where you'd only run a one-of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common solution is to run &quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRegrowth%5d&quot;&gt;Regrowth&lt;/a&gt;&quot; effects, forcing your opponent to choose between the card you want and a card that'll fish it out of your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example from the Kamigawa era is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtgevent/worlds05/t8decks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frank Karsten's 2005 Worlds (Standard) deck&lt;/a&gt;. Let's say Frank's opponent has an artifact that needs to be removed right away. The deck has one maindeck answer &amp;mdash; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPutrefy%5d&quot;&gt;Putrefy&lt;/a&gt;. Here's a way he could tutor it with Gifts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7KoMv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Putrefy&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2T6L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Recollect&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PZaB7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Reclaim&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfmPw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sensei&amp;#39;s Divining Top&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recollect gives you Putrefy back in hand. Reclaim can put it on top of your library; you could either cast Reclaim on your upkeep and draw the card naturally, or use the Top to bring the card to your hand. Your opponent can make you spend a couple of cards and some extra mana to cast Putrefy, but, short of graveyard hate, he can't keep you from casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy way to get the same effect with more recent cards, without even having to run green mana sources, is to include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSnapcaster%20Mage%5d&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNoxious%20Revival%5d&quot;&gt;Noxious Revival&lt;/a&gt; in your Gifts pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Card you just want in your graveyard anyway&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you saw that this is where we were going when I mentioned Snapcaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graveyard is a very active zone in Magic. So much so that some cards are actually at their most powerful in the 'yard. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtgevent/ptla05/t8decks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kenji Tsumura's 2005 Pro Tour Los Angeles (Extended) deck&lt;/a&gt; includes &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDarkblast%5d&quot;&gt;Darkblast&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLife%20from%20the%20Loam%5d&quot;&gt;Life from the Loam&lt;/a&gt;, whose Dredge ability helps power up his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPsychatog%5d&quot;&gt;Psychatog&lt;/a&gt;s; as well as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWonder%5d&quot;&gt;Wonder&lt;/a&gt;, whose in-your-graveyard ability is more relevant than the creature itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flashback cards are great to tutor up with Gifts &amp;mdash; whether they go in your hand or the graveyard, you can cast 'em either way. In addition, it's important to note that &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; is a valid Gifts pile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lj0ZK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unburial Rites&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SyF23.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Iona, Shield of Emeria&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it! Just two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.14b If a player is searching a hidden zone for cards with a stated quality, such as a card with a    certain card type or color, that&#xA;  player isn’t required to find some or all of those cards even if&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  they’re present in that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The &quot;stated quality&quot; in this case is &quot;different names&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your opponent must choose two cards to go in your graveyard, both of these will end up in your 'yard. At which point you can flashback Rites and bring out your big reanimated finisher. It's the best graveyard-filling tutor this side of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEntomb%5d&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the first example of using Gifts like this was actually during Kamigawa block. During one of the Pro Tour matches, a player was about to lose the game but had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGoryo%27s%5d%2b%5bVengeance%5d&quot;&gt;Goryo&amp;#39;s Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; and Gifts in hand. So he Gifts-ed for just &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKokusho%5d&quot;&gt;Kokusho&lt;/a&gt; and then let him die to drain his opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Combos and engines&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTooth%20and%20Nail%5d&quot;&gt;Tooth and Nail&lt;/a&gt; is so good because you can dig out both pieces of a combo at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gifts does that as well. It's especially easy with graveyard-based engines. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/ptber08/fm2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Patrick Chapins' 2008 Pro Tour Berlin (Extended) deck&lt;/a&gt; could set up his win condition using something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFB5T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Worm Harvest&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LTR5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Life from the Loam&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FHeNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tranquil Thicket&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aLet.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lonely Sandbar&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of which card goes where, this sets up an engine that lets you make a bunch of Worm tokens every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Plain old deception&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting up &quot;no-win scenarios&quot; for your opponent is powerful and consistent, but sometimes you don't even need to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, let's say you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUrza%27s%5d%2b%5bMine%5d&quot;&gt;Urza&amp;#39;s Mine&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUrza%27s%5d%2b%5bTower%5d&quot;&gt;Urza&amp;#39;s Tower&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSteam%20Vents%5d&quot;&gt;Steam Vents&lt;/a&gt;, and two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIzzet%20Signets%5d&quot;&gt;Izzet Signets&lt;/a&gt; in play (five mana total, but one land away from completing the UrzaTron).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You show me this Gifts pile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGZUe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Urza&amp;#39;s Power Plant&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RlPde.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Through the Breach&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O774e.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I1tax.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Eye of Ugin&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I do have real, serious choices here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I let you complete your Tron with the Power Plant, you might cast something nasty next turn &amp;mdash; or have nothing to do with all your mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I give you Through the Breach, you could crush me with an Eldrazi next turn, but only if you have one in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I give you Emrakul, it might sit uselessly in your hand for a number of turns. Or you might be sanbagging a Power Plant already in hand, ready to ramp you all the way to 15 mana in a couple more turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are right choices and wrong choices, but they're based on hidden information. If I guess wrong, you're probably won the game. You're taking a chance when you do this, of course, but it's a chance with a &lt;em&gt;big&lt;/em&gt; upside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common way to play mind games with your opponent is to use the Regrowth trick detailed above, but then regrow some &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; card that was already sitting innocuously in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What a truly busted Gifts deck looks like&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you know that Gifts Ungiven is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Printings.aspx?multiverseid=370368&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;restricted in Vintage and banned in Commander&lt;/a&gt;? Do you ever wonder why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/8671_Vintage_On_The_Other_Side_Of_The_Ocean_Some_Tech_Out_Of_The_CABLabs.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this deck&lt;/a&gt; (more discussion available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/article/27601_My-Top-5-Decks.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RbQ1H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Recoup&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rSYRw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tinker&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQLq0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Time Walk&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eeyGw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black Lotus&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gifts gets &lt;em&gt;so much&lt;/em&gt; better with a deeper card pool: there are more ways to cast stuff from your graveyard, more functional equivalents to choose from, more powerhouse &quot;silver bullet&quot; singletons, more two-card combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the right deck, Gifts Ungiven is a one-card combo, an obscene card advantage engine, and every kind of disruption you need to win the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T18:32:21.397" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T18:32:21.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5399" CreationDate="2011-11-28T01:01:52.863" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;State Based Effects (SBEs) are continuously checked at every sequence of stack/step/phase and when Tree of Redemption's (ToR) toughness == 0, he's no longer around for his ability to resolve legally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player plays ToR's ability. Ability goes on stack. (At this time it's a legal ability as there's 13 toughness to the tree.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But Opponent, in response, plays Twisted Image (TI) targeting ToR. This goes to the top of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No more fast effects are played and the stack is resolved, where spells/abilities at the top gets to resolve, followed by the next one and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;TI's spell resolves, and causes ToR's Power/Toughness to be switched. At this point, SBEs are checked and causes ToR to go to the graveyard (Since it's toughness is 0).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ToR's ability resolves, and at this point, since ToR is already in the graveyard, it's ability is unable to find it's target (which is ToR's toughness). Therefore this ability fizzles and nothing happens. SBEs are checked again and nothing has changed so nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players move on, and the player in control takes the next action/phase in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sorry for the long-winded explanation, but I hope this clarifies fully on this event.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastEditorUserId="1760" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T20:57:39.773" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T20:57:39.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5408" CreationDate="2011-11-28T02:20:36.857" Score="11" ViewCount="15568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Way back when, the first combo I built a deck around was&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233304&quot; title=&quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, Force of Nature deals 8 damage to you unless you pay GGGG&quot;&gt;&#xA;Force of Nature&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;with a&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129744&quot; title=&quot;Whenever enchanted creature deals damage, you gain that much life&quot;&gt;Spirit Link&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;on it. If, at the beginning of my upkeep, I have less than 8 life and I don't pay the upkeep, will I lose the game before the life gain kicks in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-03-08T22:44:24.440" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T22:44:24.440" Title="Do you die instantaneously if your life total hits 0?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5407" CreationDate="2011-11-28T02:42:11.793" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3b If a player’s life total is 0 or less, he or she loses the game the next time a player would    receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Force of Nature damages you, Spirit Link's trigger goes on the stack. If, between sustaining the damage and getting 8 life back from Link, your life total hits 0, you'll die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129744&quot;&gt;the Oracle text for Spirit Link&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You only gain the life when the triggered ability resolves. If you are&#xA;  reduced to zero life before the ability resolves, you will lose before&#xA;  gaining the life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, you can avoid this problem by replacing Spirit Link with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220182&quot;&gt;Lifelink&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T02:42:11.793" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5340" CreationDate="2011-11-28T10:12:42.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as i can compare the specs on the GMT web site with my 2009 deluxe edition there are no differences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2062" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T10:12:42.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5412" CreationDate="2011-11-28T11:10:00.070" Score="9" ViewCount="1675" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the old days, the rules of Magic specified that players' life totals were only checked at the end of a phase, or at the beginning or end of combat. The modern rules, however, specify that life totals are checked as a state-based action, every time a player would receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that by the time somebody's life hits 0, it's too late to play spells or resolve triggered abilities that would save them. The correct play is to take preventative action before the fatal event would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When did this change take place? Was there any specific reason for it, aside from obvious factors like streamlining and consistency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T15:06:40.607" Title="In Magic, when and why did the rules change to check life totals “continuously” instead of at the end of each phase?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5410" CreationDate="2011-11-28T12:12:13.997" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6th_Edition_%28Magic%3a_The_Gathering%29&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; suggests this as the reasoning for the 6th edition rules changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This brought that loss condition in line with the only other loss&#xA;  condition specified by the rules; a player being forced to draw a card&#xA;  when he has an empty library has always been an immediate loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is certainly more pleasingly symmetrical.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thinking about the modern approach to Magic design, there are almost certainly other good reasons: like mana burn, it's a corner case that doesn't come up all that often (at least, not often enough for it to be worth having special rules for it); like damage on the stack, it's the sort of thing that might be counterintuitive for the new player (&quot;What do you mean, you killed me after you were already dead? I'm not playing this stupid game...&quot;).  In general, weird intricacies of the rules that only &quot;experienced players&quot; are able to exploit are not favoured at Wizards any more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T12:12:13.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5410" CreationDate="2011-11-28T14:50:23.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When did this change take place? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6th Edition Rules changes, along with the addition of &quot;The Stack&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Was there any specific reason for it, aside from obvious factors like streamlining and consistency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the major reasons. Bill Rose, Magic Lead Designer at the time &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/advanced/6e/6e_letter.asp&quot;&gt;had this to say&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rule about losing immediately when you have 0 life is just intuitive. It matches what happens to creatures that have 0 toughness or take lethal damage. I only need to make one apology, to the one person harmed by this rules change: I'm sorry, Mark Rosewater. I've made it harder for you to create your puzzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bigger point is that the old way of checking for zero life was simply unintuitive. You don't wait to check if creatures have taken lethal damage at the end of a phase, why should you do the same for your life? Checking for life &amp;lt; 0 was changed to what is now called a &quot;state-based action&quot; that happens automatically when certain conditions are met and doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-11-28T15:06:40.607" LastActivityDate="2011-11-28T15:06:40.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2011-11-28T18:23:26.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend using a &lt;strong&gt;coin&lt;/strong&gt; or a &lt;strong&gt;single card&lt;/strong&gt;. They would both work the same - the player chooses a side and lays it on the table, facing up. Since there is only one card, you don't have to worry about them being recognizable by scratches. (Which, at its essence, is a mostly negligible problem.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar system for multiple choices would be using a &lt;strong&gt;die&lt;/strong&gt;. The player can place it on the table, his choice facing up. The advantage here is that with 4, 6, 10, ... options are readily available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Oh, ok, I should have said how to keep them secret. I just assumed it could be done like the original question suggests - using some sort of a &lt;strong&gt;screen&lt;/strong&gt;. Either one screen that separates the players, or even better, using an individual &lt;strong&gt;screen for each player&lt;/strong&gt;. (Kind of like Revolution does it, see below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Image and commentary I wrote before I found out I'm not allowed to post an image: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yYUCG.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Revolution! board game, showing screens for the red and yellow player.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a die or a coin is used, covering it with one's hand may be enough, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="2064" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T11:35:40.347" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T11:35:40.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5399" CreationDate="2011-11-29T00:45:44.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;State-based actions happen automatically whenever a player would receive priority. One state-based action is the one that causes creatures with toughness 0 or less to be placed into their owner's graveyard. Also, exchanges can only happen if the entire exchanged can be completed (as per rule 701.8a quoted in the question.) How the entire play scenario goes down is like this, assuming it is a two-player game and it is Player 1's turn and she has priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 activates Tree of Redemption's ability. It is put onto the stack. She then implicitly passes priority by not holding it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are checked, then Player 2 (the opponent) receives priority. He casts Twisted Image targeting the Tree. This goes onto the stack on top of the Tree's ability. He then implicitly passes priority by not holding it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are checked, then Player 1 receives priority. Player 1 passes priority by playing no more spells or abilities, which causes the top of the stack (Twisted Image) to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Twisted Image switches the Tree's power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are checked. This causes the Tree to be immediately placed into its owner's graveyard as it has 0 or less toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 receives priority, then passes it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are checked. Player 2 receives priority, then passes it, which causes the top of the stack (Tree of Redemption's ability) to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, since the game is no longer aware of the Tree of Redemption object that created the ability and thus there is no toughness to exchange with the player's life total, the exchange specified by Tree of Redemption's ability does not happen, as per rule 701.8a quoted in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T00:45:44.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5416" CreationDate="2011-11-29T03:42:33.470" Score="9" ViewCount="2470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Arkham Horror twice and am still boggled by the complexity of the mechanics and the number of rules. During both games I wished for a quick reference guide to summarize the turn order and key mechanics (e.g. combat order, a key to interpret the icons on the monster tokens, the definition of a successful roll and how the roll modifiers work, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some searching and found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.headlesshollow.com/downloads/games/ArkhamHorror_v6.8.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham reference sheets&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/7czj3tdjdy/Arkham_Horror_Combat_Reference.pdf?&quot;&gt;#2&lt;/a&gt;), but the first was way to long to be accurately called a quick reference guide (IMO) and the second spent an entire page just to explain combat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither seemed to be what I was looking for, but I'm inexperienced enough that I can't even really define what I was expecting. (The best example of a good reference guide that I could think of is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m470843_Warhammer_Reference_Sheet.pdf&quot;&gt;Warhammer Fantasy&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What information would you recommend including in a one- or two-page Arkham Horror reference manual?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T05:04:15.133" Title="What do you recommend putting in an Arkham Horror quick reference sheet?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5415" CreationDate="2011-11-29T05:04:15.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright. I'll look for an actual reference guide later, but I'll do a summary of the rules, followed by a brief turn summary now. Here goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is divided up into four phases. Upkeep, Movement, Encounters, and Mythos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game starts with a Mythos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Phases:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upkeep: Pass first player token. Refresh Exhuasted Cards, use items/spells that get used during upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movement: Starting from first player and going clockwise, investigators get to move. Delayed Investigators stand up and they're done, that's it. Investigators in Arkham can move a number of spaces up to their current speed, barring odd environmental effects. If playing with expansion boards, it costs 1 'movement' to move between two locations with a train symbol, or a location/street with a train symbol and the train station. If an investigator attempts to leave a location/street that has a monster or attempts to end movement in said location, combat starts. Investigators in the first area of an Other World move to the second area. Investigators in the second area of an Other World return to Arkham in a location with an open gate that matches the Other World they're coming from. If no such location exists, they're Lost In Time and Space (lose the rest of this turn and all of the next turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Encounters: Arkham encounters come first. Starting from first player and going clockwise, Investigators in a location in Arkahm draw a card for the neighborhood they're in, and read/resolve the encounter for the location they're in. Investigators that are standing on an open gate get drawn through to their respective Other Worlds. Investigators that have returned from an Other World can attempt to close the gate by making a combat or a lore check (Investigator's choice) at the modifier printed on the gate token. If there is a single success, the gate has been closed. When an Investigator closes a gate they can choose to spend 5 clue tokens after the fact to 'seal' the Arkham Location. Then comes Other World encounters. Starting from first playing and going clockwise, Investigators in an Other World location draw Other World encounter cards until they get a card that matches a color of the Other World they're in, and then they resolve that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mythos: The first player draws and resolves a Mythos Card. These get resolved from the bottom up, oddly enough. Bottom left of the card shows the location in Arkham where a gate opens up. With 1-4 players 1 monster accompanies the gate. With 5-8 players you get 2 monsters. If a gate opens in a location where there's already an open gate, a Monster Surge occurs. (Though the exact specifics of this are debated...) Starting from the surging location and going clockwise around the board, place one monster on each gate, for a total of new monsters equal to the number of open gates or the number of Investigators, whichever is greater. If the mythos card shows a location that's been sealed, nothing happens. If a new gate trophy is placed on the board, add a doom token to the Ancient One's doom track. Next up is monster movement. Monsters in a location/stree with an Investigator do not leave. Monsters with symbols that match those in the black rectangle move along the paths in arkham indicated by the black arrow. Monsters with symbols that match those in the white rectangle move along the paths indicated by the white arrow. Monsters with symbols that don't match any on the mythos card do not move. The color of the monster tokens modifies how they move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black: Normal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red: Moves Twice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow: Doesn't Move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Green: Has special text on the token that explains what happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue: If in a location/street and adjacent to an Investigator, moves to them. Otherwise moves to the Sky. The Sky is adjacent to all streets. If in the Sky and adjacent to an Investigator, moves to the Investigator with the worst sneak score. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purple: Moves to an Investigator in an adjacent street or unstable location. Otherwise it moves normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Orange: If in an aquatic location, moves to another aquatic location with an Investigator. Otherwise it moves normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, a clue is placed on the board in the indicated location. If there's an open gate there, no clue, period. If an Investigator is there, they get the clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the text of the mythos card is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Combat:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Monster Token:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the front of the token is a number in the top corner, that's the awareness modifier. The symbol in the bottom corner isn't important for battle, it's used during the mythos phase for monster movement. The back bottom left of the monster token is for horror checks. If there's a number present, that's the horror check modifier. Under the modifier is a number of ovals for how much sanity damage you'll take for failing the check. The back bottom right is the modifier for the combat check. Under this modifier is a number of hearts for how much stamina damage you'll take for failing the check. The back bottom middle has a number of blood drops, this is the monster's Toughness. This is how many successes you'll need to pass the combat check. Monsters may have additional text at the back top of the token. These effects include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambush: Cannot flee once combat has started&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endless: Don't get the trophy if you win&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Physically Resistant/Immune: Physical Weapons give half (rounded in your favor) or none of the bonus they usually do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magically Resistant/Immune: Magical Weapons/Spells give half (rounded in your favor) or none of the bonus they usually do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weapon Immune: Weapons give none of the bonus they usually do. Spells are still ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nightmarish X: If you pass the horror check, take X sanity damage. If you fail the horror check, ignore this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overwhelming X: If you pass the very first combat check, take X stamina damage. If you ever fail the combat check, ignore this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat Procedure:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very beginning of combat, you can attempt a Evade (which is Sneak + anything with evasion bonuses) check at a modifier equal to the monster's Awareness (number on the front top corner). If this check passes, pretend like combat with this monster never happened. (Elusive monsters present in expansions have a green awareness modifier. You can't fight them unless you pass the Evade Check.) If you fail the evade check, you take combat damage from the monster. If combat is still going at this point, you lose the rest of your movement for the turn. Now make the horror check. If the check has no successes, take the horror damage. If you're still alive, start making combat checks. You can also choose to make additional evade checks. If you pass a combat check, the monster is defeated and you claim the trophy. If you pass an evade check, combat ends, the monster remains where it is, and you still don't have any movement. If you fail either a combat check or an evade check, you take combat damage. Repeat this step until combat is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Misc.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting knocked out/driven insane: If at any point while in Arkahm an Investigator's stamina is reduced to 0, they lose the rest of the current turn, move to St. Mary's Hospital, and are set to 1 Stamina. Same story for sanity except move to Arkham Asylum. If an Investigator is reduced to 0 Stamina or 0 Sanity while in an Other World, lose the rest of the turn, lose the next turn completely, move to Lost In Time and Space, and the relevant stat is set to 1. During the Upkeep phase following the lost turn, the Investigator can appear in any location/street in Arkham. If an Investigator is reduced to 0 Stamina and 0 Sanity simultaneously or are reduced to 0 Sanity or 0 Stamina during Final Combat, or an Investigator's Maximum Sanity/Stamina is reduced to 0, they are devoured. Discard everything except trophies and start with a new character, as though you were setting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monster Limit: There can only be (# of Investigators + 3) monsters on the main arkham board at one time (doesn't include expansion board or the Outskirts). If a monster is placed on the board and the limit is exceeded it goes into the outskirts. The outskirts can support (8 - # of Investigators) monsters. If a monster is placed in the Outskirts and the limit is exceeded, all of the monsters in the outskirts to back into the cup and the terror level increases by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terror Level: Each time the terror level increases, an ally is discarded from the ally deck. Additionally, when the track hits 3, the general store closes; 6 - the curiositie shoppe closes; 9 - The Magic Shop Closes. 10 - Monster Limit is doubled.&#xA;Winning: If there are 6 sealed locations in Arkham, or if there are no open gates in Arkham and the Investigators collectively have a number of gate trophies equal to the number of investigators, or the Ancient One is defeated in Final Combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing: If everyone is devoured in Final Combat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final Combat: Begins when&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are 9 - (# Investigators divided by 2 rounded up) open gates on the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ancient One's doom track fills up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terror Level is 10 and the doubled monster limit is exceeded&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No gate trophies left to use when one is needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No monster trophies left in the cup when one is needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final Combat: At the start, the Ancient One's doom track fills up. Final Combat has three phases. Upkeep, Investigator Attack, Ancient One attack. Upkeep is the same as before, also item trading can occur. During Investigator attack, make a combat check at the Ancient One's Combat modified and count the successes. Successes are cumulative across all Investigators and all rounds. A # of successes equal to the # of Investigators removes a single doom token from the Ancient One's doom track. If the doom track empties, the Investigators win. During the Ancient One attack, resolve the printed effect on the card. Usually each Investigator has to pass a skill check of some sort at increasingly difficult modifiers or discard something and when they run out they're dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Quick Summary&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upkeep: Refresh, move first player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Movement: Move around the arkham board, fighting/sneaking past monsters or move 1 space in an Other world.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encounter: Draw an Arkham Encounter, move into an Other World, close a gate, or draw an Other World Encounter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mythos: Gate opens, doom token, monsters appear, monsters move, clue appears, text is resolved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evade Check (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horror Check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Check or Evade Check (repeat this step until dead)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah...the summary got a bit away from me, but that about covers it save for odd corner cases. Hopefully that'll help a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T05:04:15.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18716" CreationDate="2011-11-29T16:25:49.710" Score="6" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing two-handed pinochle, the 'normal' rules of the game are suspended during the initial phase (when melding takes place along with trick taking while depleting the deck of undealt cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, you cannot yet renege, you are not penalized for not following suit, you are not forced to out-trump trump, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this phase of the game, what is the best way to determine if it is a good idea to use trump cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:56:01.533" LastActivityDate="2024-04-04T04:31:24.930" Title="Determining if/when to use trump in the &quot;pre-game&quot; of 2-handed Pinochle" Tags="|pinochle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5423" CreationDate="2011-11-29T16:41:05.257" Score="9" ViewCount="8946" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many games, it can be extremely helpful to know what cards have already been played and/or the number left in any given suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are good ways to learn to count the cards played (especially in a game such as pinochle where you cannot inspect your taken-trick pile to see at least what &lt;em&gt;you've&lt;/em&gt; claimed out of the hand)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T16:06:00.103" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T16:06:00.103" Title="Learning to count cards" Tags="|card-counting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2011-11-29T16:56:02.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One strategy that sees a lot of play in our group when Goons is around is to use any extra buys for Coppers to get the extra points.  This works best when you have other things in your deck to clear the Coppers out afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've also seen Chancellor/Counting House used rather effectively once or twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T16:56:02.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2011-11-29T16:58:48.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been pretty happy with &lt;a href=&quot;http://daaa57150.free.fr/randominion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WebMinion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has plenty of options for how to set the cards up and lets you selectively re-randomize any of them, which we use a lot in our games if something comes up that we've seen too much or nobody likes, but we don't want to scrap the whole set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T17:15:22.477" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T17:15:22.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5007" CreationDate="2011-11-29T18:29:39.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you could trivially state which cards are in your hand, how you acquired each one, what you did with whatever resource card the other player thinks you may have, etc. until they are convinced that you do not have that resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I have always played under the assumption that you can show your cards if you would like. I have never heard of anyone playing with all cards exposed however, that removes some element of excitement I would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2067" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T18:29:39.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-29T18:38:43.097" Score="12" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2877/settlers-of-catan-data&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan Data&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes track this for myself when I play online, and almost half the time when I win, I have Longest Road and either 3 Cities/2 Settlements or 2 Cities/4 Settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rarely win with Largest Army, but I have noticed from reading online that one of the more common winning combos is 3 cities, Largest Army, and either 2 VP or 1 VP and 1 settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any data on this sort of thing? Have you noticed and 1 or 2 combos coming up most frequently in games you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of course I realize there are many possibilities, strategy often changes mid-game, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2067" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T09:08:02.783" Title="Is there any data on most common way to get to 10 VP in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2011-11-30T20:24:17.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2011-11-29T19:57:41.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different systems for card counting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of them involve adding a number to the count if a card you don't like(e.g., a low card) is played(since that increases the amount of high cards left in the deck) and you subtract a number from the count when a high card is played (since this decreases the number of high cards in the deck). The systems vary however in how much is added/subtracted for each cards. Depending on what are the most profitable cards in the deck you might want to choose one system over another. The system that only involve adding/subtracting 1 from the count are much easier to learn and to apply in games since it is less information to keep track of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important to note is of course that most of these systems are originally developed for Blackjack, and might or might not work very well on other card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_counting#Systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent article on card-counting. I'd suggest reading this. To practice card counting, the most easy way is just to go through a few decks multiple times a day looking at the top card, saying the new count out loud, and then drawing the next top card. You have to be able to do this as fast as possible without making mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you like entertaining stories:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bringing_Down_the_House_%28book%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bringing Down the House&lt;/a&gt; is a story(which really happened) about people winning HUGE amounts of money from card counting in Blackjack, and the troubles they faced.(There also is a movie adaption called 21, but the book is much better.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2059" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-11-29T20:22:19.620" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T20:22:19.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5425" CreationDate="2011-11-29T20:08:10.213" Score="13" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, for example, my turn starts by playing a King's Court and choosing Conspirator, how many cards will I draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T13:56:44.247" Title="How does Conspirator work with Throne Room / King's Court?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5424" CreationDate="2011-11-29T20:25:01.910" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is explained in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_306_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Intrigue rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conspirator&lt;/strong&gt; – You evaluate whether or not Conspirator gives you +1 Card and +1&#xA;  Action when you play it. If later in the turn you play more Action cards, you do not go&#xA;  back and reevaluate a Conspirator played earlier. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the purposes of counting actions,&#xA;  if you Throne Room an Action, that's one Action for the Throne Room, one for the&#xA;  selected Action played the first time, and one for the selected Action played the second&#xA;  time. For example, if you play Throne Room on Conspirator, the first Conspirator will&#xA;  be your second Action, and won't give you +1 Card or +1 Action, but the second&#xA;  Conspirator will be your third Action, and you will get +1 Card and +1 Action for that&#xA;  second Conspirator. Action - Victory cards are Actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your example, if you play King's Court and choose Conspirator, you would draw +2 cards and get +2 actions.  The first copy of Conspirator would count as your second action, and then the second and third plays would qualify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=king%27s%20court&quot;&gt;King's Court&lt;/a&gt; (Action #1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=conspirator&quot;&gt;Conspirator&lt;/a&gt; (Choosing does not count as playing an action)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 1st Conspirator (Action #2 - no bonus from Conspirator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 2nd Conspirator (Action #3 - receive bonus from Conspirator).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 3nd Conspirator (Action #4 - receive bonus from Conspirator).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="2242" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T13:56:44.247" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T13:56:44.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5427" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:23:09.477" Score="12" ViewCount="1365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many card games have two sets of cards that aren't in play, but could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pile of cards (face down) that you draw from on your turn,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and a pile of cards (face up) where you discard any cards you're not using.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the proper names for these two places?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be surprised if different games use different names, but I'm just looking for the names that are the most common, and the most readily understood.  Also, I'm thinking of both traditional 52-card games, and the various specialty card decks out there (like Dominion or Magic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T07:49:34.107" Title="What are the proper names for the places where cards are drawn from and discarded to?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5426" CreationDate="2011-11-29T22:25:42.653" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most generic names would be &quot;Draw Pile&quot; and &quot;Discard Pile&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2011-11-29T22:25:42.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2011-11-30T02:46:36.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR For euchre, memorize the suits in the same order every time and remember the boss cards in each suit plus all trump cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For counting in Euchre, which I think is pretty easy to get started with, I started by making sure that I could count down the maximum number of trump that could be available as the tricks progress.  I only subtract cards played and don't deduct the cards in my hand until I play them.  It's too easy to subtract them twice unless you get in to that habit right from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I started keeping track of which trump are potentially available.  I started by keeping track of the highest (boss) trump that could be out there.  Even at the hardest, 7 out there and I have none (though I usually just ride these out and don't worry about counting) left-right-ace-king-queen-10-9 can rattle around in my head pretty easily and now I can forget about counting the 7 because I have the list that I can count if I need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started expanding this once I got good at it, to the suits with aces outstanding. At worst, now I'm thinking suit-suit-suit-left-right-ace-king-queen-10-9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got really good at keeping this in my head, through practice, I noticed that I keep track of the suits in my head in the same order every time.  Now, instead of tracking the suits with aces left, I switched to tracking the boss for each suit and all the trump ending up at boss-left-right-ace-king-queen-10-9-boss-boss (where the trump drifts around in position based on suit).  It's easy to lose track of the off suit boss because they could be thrown out of order, off suit.  (ie if the boss was King and the queen was thrown off suit, then the king was played in the next trick you could be waiting for the queen to come out ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 cards out of the 24 available tracked helps a lot.  I suppose I could shoot for more, but this is usually more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your memory, you could try tracking A-K-Q-J of each suit plus all the trump (watch where you count the bowers) ... this would give you 18 of the 24 cards, but I haven't gotten to this level myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T02:46:36.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5431" CreationDate="2011-11-30T03:59:18.257" Score="12" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;When does the Virulent Strain Epidemic effect for Hidden Pocket happen? The way the card is laid out, it would seem that it happens after the three epidemic steps; however, that would negate the effect as there would never be any cards in the discard pile. It could happen before step 1, but that could be pretty nasty and seems to go against the title of the effect, as &quot;hidden pocket&quot; would imply only a small amount of the disease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this situation arose in a game, resolving the effect before step 1 would have been pretty bad as there were a lot of cards in the discard pile. We chose to resolve the effect after the Infector phase, since there would only be a few cards in the discard pile, but that seems like a stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1KGH0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Epidemic! Virulent Strain! Hidden Pocket&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T15:40:40.967" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T15:40:40.967" Title="What is the timing of the Hidden Pocket effect?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2011-11-30T05:57:25.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Untested, but I don't think it would be too disastrous: increase the speed of the trains.  Instead of 9 and 12, try 12 and 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you'll get where you are going in less turns, so your game should take less turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible problems: You might not be able to build track at the beginning fast enough to keep your train in motion.  If a bridge disaster catches you, you'll spend more &quot;movement time&quot; waiting to get to rebuild.  And ferries become more costly to use, as the &quot;half movement&quot; penalty is now half of a bigger number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T05:57:25.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5429" CreationDate="2011-11-30T05:59:49.540" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This card is definitely ambiguous, which is strange, as all the other virulent strain Epidemic cards are quite clear about when they take effect. However, Tom Lehmann, the game's designer, has actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/445646/questions-on-hidden-pocket&quot;&gt;answered this specific question&lt;/a&gt; on BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hidden Pocket is resolved after Infect (and before Intensify).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, if the Virulent Strain disease has been eradicated and a city of&#xA;  that disease is drawn during the Infect step, you don't place 3 cubes&#xA;  on it (as per the normal eradication rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, that card then goes into the Infection Discard Pile (see page&#xA;  6 of the Pandemic rules), and therefore will end up with 1 cube on it&#xA;  when Hidden Pocket is applied, before resetting the Infection Discard&#xA;  Pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah, it's pretty nasty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T05:59:49.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2011-11-30T07:28:48.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't really a house rule per se, but it's especially helpful in speeding up the game when playing on a new board (or unfamiliar one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a new demand card is drawn, read off and find all of the cities as quickly as possible. Everyone &quot;competes&quot; to find and point out each city first. This helps everyone learn the map better, as well as whomever just drew the card evaluate which (if any) demand to attempt to fulfill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T07:28:48.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5422" CreationDate="2011-11-30T09:08:02.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not seen any collected data released, but the online play sites may have done so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T09:08:02.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5438" CreationDate="2011-11-30T12:23:28.367" Score="2" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;While plenty entertaining in the original version, the game &lt;strong&gt;Thunderstone&lt;/strong&gt; looks like it could be played in many more ways.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Besides the most obvious modifications like playing with more (or less) monster, item or hero classes, what are the most popular/best modes? I'm interested in single- as well as multi-player ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-11-30T17:30:02.637" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T22:24:04.350" Title="Different game modes for Thunderstone" Tags="|house-rules|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3118" CreationDate="2011-11-30T18:17:47.717" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Accepted answer is a good and correct answer — but no references! &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules.&lt;/a&gt; Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;305. Lands&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.1. A player who has priority may play a land card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. &lt;strong&gt;Playing a land is a special action; it doesn't use the stack&lt;/strong&gt; (see rule 115). Rather, the player simply puts the land onto the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;Since the land doesn't go on the stack, it is never a spell, and players can't respond to it with instants or activated abilities.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can't respond to it, you can't counterspell it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.. snip ..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.9. If an object is both a land and another card type, it can be played only as a land. &lt;strong&gt;It can't be cast as a spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you added another card type to the land somehow, you cannot cast it as a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are those who don't like to slog through the comprehensive rules, that's understandable, but Wizards was pretty clear in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_MTGM11_Rulebook_LR_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; on this point too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Land&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although lands are permanents, they aren’t cast as spells. To play a land, just put it onto the battlefield. This happens immediately, so no player can do anything else in response. You can play a land only during one of your main phases while the stack is empty. You can’t play more than one land a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T18:17:47.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="518" CreationDate="2011-11-30T19:05:22.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will usually buy one or two Loans in my first three turns to help thin out the coppers. If my opponents are using something that can make me gain treasure cards I might not want (Mountebank or Jester come to mind.) then I might buy more to head off those effects. In both cases, if there are other options for trashing, I will probably go with those instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T19:05:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5446" CreationDate="2011-11-30T19:44:30.227" Score="17" ViewCount="1731" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Risk board represents the map of the world, or of Europe. Thus, it implies some constraints for example on the connectedness of a territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to explore how graph theory could help your strategies, and on which measure would a change of the node number and degree change them.  Are there any variants of this game that are played on an arbitrary graph?  (Yes, I realize that it wouldn't be in the spirit of a war game at that point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2075" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T15:32:59.207" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:32:59.207" Title="Playing Risk in an arbitrary graph" Tags="|game-design|risk|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5434" CreationDate="2011-11-30T22:11:42.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of variants listed in the rulebooks (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/5lnezl7kbf/AEG-TS-Wrath-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wrath of the Elements, in particular, has solo play and epic variants printed in it among others&lt;/a&gt;).  Having tried most of them out, I have to say that I still greatly prefer just the basic scenario.  In particular, the small size of the Village stacks means that any longer variants tend to turn into just grinding towards the end, as there is little purchasing one can do once the premium Village stacks are exhausted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T22:11:42.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2011-11-30T22:42:23.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I used to play Bridge regularly, I started out simply by keeping track of suit counts.  How many have been played from each suit.  I then added counts for Aces and Kings, keeping track of those on top of the suit counts.  I then expanded into tracking all of the trump suit, and followed by tracking the remaining suits.  If you play regularly and take a gradual approach, it will eventually become second nature, but it does require regular play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T22:42:23.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2011-11-30T22:53:01.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say that, by and large, the card method is what I'd choose, since I wouldn't be concerned about wear and tear on them.  However, assuming that that remains a concern, you can expand beyond hiding a coin for a binary choice into using a bunch of color tokens (cubes, beads, what have you).  Give each player a screen, with the choices explained on the back, and have them conceal the token in their hand to be revealed simultaneously.  Note that this is basically equivalent to the card case, but the physical reproduction should be immune to concerns of wear and team - both due to the toughness of the materials and also due to the fact that they're completely concealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2011-11-30T22:53:01.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5442" CreationDate="2010-07-07T20:54:19.263" Score="63" ViewCount="222134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a lot of Solitaire games on my Android phone and love to keep an eye out for the statistics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the Solitaire version lets you restart the game endlessly, I usually play until I solve it. But I never managed to solve more than 80% of the games played (1000+).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I wonder, is every Solitaire game solvable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="304" OwnerDisplayName="Ivo Flipse" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T20:36:51.530" LastActivityDate="2022-04-04T10:57:11.833" Title="Can every game of Klondike-Solitaire be solved?" Tags="|solitaire|klondike-solitaire|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2010-07-07T20:55:49.493" Score="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&#xA;Example: If all of your cards face up on the board are red, and the cards that come up every third card are also red, and none of them are aces. You lose. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="144" OwnerDisplayName="McKay" LastActivityDate="2010-07-07T20:55:49.493" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2010-07-07T20:58:54.057" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solitaire is a game that precedes its computer version, and that means that all the cards are truly shuffled, without the computer peeking in to verify the game is solvable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And like McKay mentioned, with a random shuffle you can definitely end up with an unsolvable game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure it is possible to design a Solitaire variant in which each game is solvable, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" OwnerDisplayName="Oak" LastActivityDate="2010-07-07T20:58:54.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2010-07-21T14:51:04.973" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klondike_solitaire#Odds_of_winning&quot;&gt;very interesting reading at wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; about this topic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a &quot;standard&quot; game of Klondike (of&#xA;  the form: Draw 3, Re-Deal Infinite,&#xA;  Win 52) the number of solvable games&#xA;  (assuming all cards are known) is&#xA;  between 82-91.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jakub Šturc" LastActivityDate="2010-07-21T14:51:04.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 2.5" />
  <row Id="5445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5437" CreationDate="2011-12-01T05:40:48.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are additional maps available for Risk. The most obvious is &quot;Castle Risk&quot; using just Europe. They don't substantially alter the play that much; sufficiently little that the other themed variants need other special rules to make them worth playing apart from the original world map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I've not seen any with a pure-grid topography. Not that it would be terribly hard to play it that way... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a variant with a regular pattern, but it's not a grid: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24253/fleets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fleets&lt;/a&gt;. Fleets uses sectios of rings, in a clear pattern. It also uses a stacking limit of 1, so it has a very different feel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played Fleets without the stacking limit; it turns out to be very much worse that way. Whomever gets the most territory early (a luck driven factor) wins the game as production is tightly linked to territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T05:40:48.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5437" CreationDate="2011-12-01T11:19:00.790" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The computer game &lt;a href=&quot;http://sillysoft.net/lux/&quot;&gt;Lux&lt;/a&gt; is Risk, but with &lt;a href=&quot;http://sillysoft.net/lux/maps/&quot;&gt;a huge number of custom maps&lt;/a&gt; and themes.  You can also create your own maps using their map editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the maps include additional rules, such as time-based continent values or starting positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in Risk played on arbitrary graphs (nb. including directed graphs!) then I think this would be a great place to start investigating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T11:19:00.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5448" CreationDate="2011-12-01T15:59:33.507" Score="7" ViewCount="1722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just acquired the game &lt;strong&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/strong&gt;, and I plan to play it at work.  It would be nice to play with up to 5 or 6 players, though, and the base game supports only 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that two expansions to the game (&quot;The Gathering Storm&quot; and &quot;Rebel versus Imperium&quot;) each add one player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since none of us has played the game before, I'd prefer not to add extra complexity to the game right away.  However, it would be nice if we could make use of the extra players provided by these expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to purchase these expansions, would I be able to play the &quot;base&quot; game with more players (as is the case with Pandemic's &quot;On the Brink&quot; expansion), or do the extra players promised come at the price of more complexity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:03:42.510" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:03:42.510" Title="Do Race for the Galaxy expansions allow more players without changing the base game's rules?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2011-12-01T16:58:26.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. It's possible to just use the new player cards and take out the cards which use new mechanics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also just left all the cards in and just simply ignored the Prestige rules, Goals and Takeovers; although that makes some cards weaker as they are costed with these additional mechanics in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2011-12-01T17:05:12.550" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T17:05:12.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2011-12-01T19:30:28.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The expansions for Race for the Galaxy give identical phase selection cards.  They can be used alone with no other components of the expansion to add more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limiting factor becomes the size of the deck.  Without adding the expansion more people are drawing from the same amount of cards.  This will trigger more reshuffles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be mitigated by not using cards form the top of the deck to track goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the first two expansions do not add many more rules.  After a couple of plays I strongly recommend adding them.  While the takeover rules are difficult, players often choose to not use them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall base-game + two expansions and no takeovers, seems like the most fun the game has to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T16:13:36.897" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:13:36.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2011-12-01T20:12:37.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase blank faced playing cards that are perfect for prototyping. Just write whatever text you need on the face of the card and start playing. It's a good idea to keep extras on hand for use as you need to add/remove/change the cards in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could list a few sources, but your best bet is to check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=blank+playing+cards&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;aq=0&amp;amp;oq=blank+playin#q=blank+playing+cards&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;tbs=p_ord:p&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=wN7XTvPaFMGLsgLb_NDZDQ&amp;amp;ved=0CAsQuw0oAQ&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&amp;amp;fp=cbcbdb28c1a76b22&amp;amp;biw=1680&amp;amp;bih=963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Products&lt;/a&gt; to see what fits your needs the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-12-01T20:12:37.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2011-12-01T20:18:18.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/Card/Multi-purpose-Cards-Rectangle-394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artscow&lt;/a&gt;. I have a friend who has used them before for a custom deck and he was very happy with their work. Also, the price is very reasonable for custom print work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA:&#xA;I mis-read the question and thought that the OP &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; looking for commercial sites, when they actually were specifically not doing so. With that in mind, please look at my &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4948/i-have-an-idea-for-a-card-game-how-can-i-best-start-testing-it/5450#5450&quot;&gt;response&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4948/i-have-an-idea-for-a-card-game-how-can-i-best-start-testing-it&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. Blank playing cards are not a perfect solution to the question (Difficult to print on directly. You would need to print on paper and paste it to the cards.) but the results would have the right weight/feel/ease of shuffling and would look nicer than doing the same with a standard deck of cards. Also, such products are commonly available at craft stores. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T16:58:47.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5454" CreationDate="2011-12-02T02:44:41.313" Score="3" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got into Warmachine a while ago, then fell out of it. I'm looking to get back into it, but I'm not sure what books I would now need. I have a couple of the original books, but I don't have the Mk2 book. It seems that I could just start over with that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1527" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-02T05:45:29.430" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T17:34:32.807" Title="What do I need to get (re)started in Warmachine?" Tags="|warmachine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5426" CreationDate="2011-12-02T07:49:34.107" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;For traditional card games the proper terms as defined in both Hoyle and Official Rules of Card Games are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drawing is the act of receiving cards from the stock.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see these terms used by Wikipedia while defining the rules for various games such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canasta&quot;&gt;Canasta&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gin_rummy&quot;&gt;Gin Rummy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are both &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rummy&quot;&gt;Rummy-style games&lt;/a&gt;.  One of the defining features of such games is the two shared piles you are asking about.  If you get outside of rummy-style games, the terms become more muddled.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are only a few cards left over that typically come into play at once, they are usually referred to as the Widow, talon, or kitty as in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euchre&quot;&gt;Euchre&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinochle&quot;&gt;Pinochle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For non-traditional card games, the names can be quite varied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic: The Gathering: Library&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dominion: Deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thunderstone: Party Deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Race for the Galaxy: Card Supply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, Draw pile is a perfectly acceptable term in common usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T07:49:34.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2011-12-02T09:55:39.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You neet Warmachine MKII rulebook and the MKII cards for your models. &#xA;Depending on how many models you already have you can buy the single cards from the PP online Sore or your faction card Deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="401" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T09:55:39.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5096" CreationDate="2011-12-02T17:18:13.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dislike Saboteur because it makes the game less fun; it torpedoes the &quot;building&quot; aspect of deck-building, and my face-to-face group won't use it for that reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, contrary to Isotropic's stats (which I believe are heavily biased towards 2-player games -- please correct me if I'm wrong), I've found that in a 3-4 player game, ignoring Saboteur only works if everybody else at the table does, too.  If two players get Saboteurs, they can wind up shredding cards faster than you replace them -- and unless Lighthouse or Moat are available, the only good response is to wade into the fray with a Saboteur of your own and make sure they're just as screwed as you are.  Which causes the game to degenerate into a Copper- and Estate-based slap fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's your idea of a fun game, go for it.  Just leave me out of it.  ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T17:18:13.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5447" CreationDate="2011-12-02T19:19:48.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deck size can get really strained with 5 players and only the base game deck.  Towards the end of the game when players hands and tableaus are full of cards, you end up with a very, very small draw deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T19:19:48.670" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2011-12-02T19:52:22.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In rereading this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The materials to print cards are simple: Cardstock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 forms of cardstock are available readily:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;letter sized or A4 sized (depending on location in the world) cardstock, usually in 50, 250, or 500 sheet packages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Index cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Business Card stock - usually in 10 sheet packs or 100 sheet packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the above run through most laser printers just fine. Most go through most ink jets well, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When printing on a laser printer, the issue is that the toner will usually only bond well with one side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an ink jet, the issue varies by type of ink. Inks intended to be absorbed (often alcohol based) take some time to dry, and often, won't absorb into one side of a sheet of cardstock. Print a sheet, and set it aside, then print next. Wax-based inks usually leave a texture; they break off in shuffling, and are unsuitable for anything other than laminated or sleeved use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can &quot;plastic coat&quot; one's cards with a thin layer of hairspray or matte sealer. It lengthens the lifespan of cards, but is a messy process, and adds considerable drying time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-02T19:52:22.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-03T13:26:05.167" Score="17" ViewCount="90732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played for quite a few years and have a ton of cards that I want to get rid of. I have a mix of all editions before 2007. 7th, 8th, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is where can I sell them effectively. And if it is better to just get all rares out, and then sell the rest as a lot at a common hobby store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the feedback!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2085" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T05:47:04.003" Title="Where can I sell my Magic: The Gathering cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5458" CreationDate="2011-12-03T15:51:06.760" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get the most money for your cards, I recommend that you do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate out any valuable rares -- anything worth more than a few dollars -- and sell them individually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sell the rest of them in bulk. Generally speaking, commons and uncommons only go for about $.01, unless they're especially valuable in one of the non-Standard formats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; to sell them, you have basically three options. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sell them to your local game store. This is probably the most convenient option, but be aware that the local store is likely to offer you less than you could get in other venues, and they're usually flooded with commons and may not agree to buy your old commons and uncommons at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sell them yourself on eBay. This is what I did when I needed to get rid of a few thousand old commons, which I sold in a great big unsorted box. You'll probably get a higher average price per card this way, but you'll have to handle the hassle of shipping yourself. And be aware that big boxes of cards can be &lt;em&gt;heavy&lt;/em&gt;, and therefore expensive to ship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sell them to an online game store that buys cards. This is probably the least attractive option, since they will usually only offer prices similar to those you get selling to a local store, but you still have to ship them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T15:51:06.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5461" CreationDate="2011-12-03T16:00:56.243" Score="16" ViewCount="2672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do they get handed over to the new president or do they get shuffled back into the quorum card deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T14:07:55.247" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T14:07:55.247" Title="What happens to the president's quorum card hand when he loses the title?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5460" CreationDate="2011-12-03T16:32:33.857" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. I don't think the rules or FAQ explicitly address this. The cards certainly don't get shuffled back into the deck; I don't think there's anything to suggest that would happen. The question is whether they are discarded or if the hand passes to the new President. The base game rule book really only has one statement that addresses this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whichever player has the President title has control over this hand of Quorum Cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies the hand of Quorum cards doesn't really &lt;em&gt;belong&lt;/em&gt; to the President, rather the current President simply has control over the hand. So if the title transfers to another character, nothing happens to the hand, but control of the hand belongs to the new President.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pegasus rule book offers some confirmation of this. Regarding execution, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player whose character was executed discards his hand of Skill Cards. (Quorum Cards in his &#xA;  hand are unaffected.) He also discards any Quorum Cards played on his character (for example the “Assign Mission Specialist” Quorum card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this about revealing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player discards down to three Skill Cards (or to zero if he has been revealed as a result of execution). He also discards any Quorum Cards played on his character. (If the player was President, the hand of Quorum Cards is not discarded. It is given to the new President instead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Quorum hand is not discard as a result of the President being executed or revealed, then it is not discarded as a result of the President title being transferred to another character (since transfer also happens with execution or reveal of the President).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T02:37:04.643" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T02:37:04.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5458" CreationDate="2011-12-03T22:24:48.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely take the rares out and sell those separately. People often are looking to buy rare's individually, so you'll get much better prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind spending a bit more time on the issue, use your knowledge of the game to  sort the commons and uncommons into which seem to be better than average and which are just typical. Look up the prices for those that seem good or are otherwise unusual online and perhaps sell those separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to where I'd definitely check your local game store first as you'll get to deal directly with someone who has plenty of experience with card prices. If the owner won't buy them, ask if you can post a small notice somewhere in the store that you are selling them and give a brief description of what you have. Get a bit of word of mouth working for you too buy telling any friends you have that play that you're looking to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if none of these work, try to sell them on Ebay or an MTG dealing site. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2011-12-03T22:24:48.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5464" CreationDate="2011-12-04T02:01:43.890" Score="11" ViewCount="145787" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a free-for-all multiplayer Magic game, what happens when someone dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens to spells they've cast that are on the stack?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens to enchantments they have cast onto permanents that other people control?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, if player A (at 1 life with 3 creatures) casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214044&quot;&gt;Massacre Wurm&lt;/a&gt; and Player B flashes out his own Massacre Wurm in response, what happens? Also, player A had previously cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=228956&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; on one of Player B's creatures. In the end, what is the result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T02:23:26.370" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T16:52:49.483" Title="In Magic free-for-all multiplayer, what happens when someone dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-08-03T00:34:30.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5463" CreationDate="2011-12-04T02:40:34.923" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a whole procedure for this in the multiplayer section of the comp rules. The big take-away is this: as soon as you die, all your stuff leaves the game -- then, after that, if you would still control anything (e.g. a permanent you stole from someone else), that thing is exiled; any triggered abilities you would own don't occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4.&lt;/strong&gt; Unlike two-player games, multiplayer games can continue after one or more players have left the    game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4a.&lt;/strong&gt; When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the&#xA;         game, any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end, and all spells and&#xA;         abilities controlled by that player on the stack cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still&#xA;         controlled by that player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as&#xA;         soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or&#xA;         she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: Alex casts Control Magic, an Aura that reads, “You control enchanted&#xA;                  creature,” on Bianca’s Wall of Wood. If Alex leaves the game, so does Control Magic,&#xA;                  and Wall of Wood reverts to Bianca’s control. If, instead, Bianca leaves the game, so&#xA;                  does Wall of Wood, and Control Magic is put into Alex’s graveyard.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: Alex casts Threaten, which reads, in part, “Untap target creature and gain&#xA;                  control of it until end of turn,” targeting Bianca’s Wall of Wood. If Alex leaves the&#xA;                  game, Threaten’s change-of-control effect ends and Wall of Wood reverts to Bianca’s&#xA;                  control.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: Alex casts Bribery, which reads, “Search target opponent’s library for a&#xA;                  creature card and put that card onto the battlefield under your control. Then that player&#xA;                  shuffles his or her library,” targeting Bianca. Alex puts Wall of Wood onto the&#xA;                  battlefield from Bianca’s library. If Bianca leaves the game, Wall of Wood also leaves&#xA;                  the game. If, instead, Alex leaves the game, Wall of Wood is exiled.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: Alex controls Genesis Chamber, which reads, “Whenever a nontoken creature&#xA;                  enters the battlefield, if Genesis Chamber is untapped, that creature’s controller puts a&#xA;                  1/1 colorless Myr artifact creature token onto the battlefield.” If Alex leaves the game,&#xA;                  all such Myr tokens that entered the battlefield under Alex’s control leave the game, and&#xA;                  all such Myr tokens that entered the battlefield under any other player’s control remain&#xA;                  in the game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4b.&lt;/strong&gt; If an object would change to the control of a player who has left the game, it doesn’t. If a&#xA;         token would enter the battlefield under the control of a player who has left the game, no token is&#xA;         created. If a player would be controlled by a player who has left the game, he or she isn’t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4c&lt;/strong&gt; If an object that would be owned by a player who has left the game would be created in any&#xA;         zone, it isn’t created. If a triggered ability that would be controlled by a player who has left the&#xA;         game would be put onto the stack, it isn’t put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: Astral Slide is an enchantment that reads, “Whenever a player cycles a card,&#xA;                  you may exile target creature. If you do, return that creature to the battlefield under its&#xA;                  owner’s control at the beginning of the next end step.” During Alex’s turn, Bianca uses&#xA;                  Astral Slide’s ability to exile Alex’s Hypnotic Specter. Before the end of that turn,&#xA;                  Bianca leaves the game. At the beginning of the end step, the delayed triggered ability&#xA;              generated by Astral Slide that would return Hypnotic Specter to play triggers, but it isn’t&#xA;              put on the stack. Hypnotic Specter never returns to the battlefield.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4d.&lt;/strong&gt; If combat damage would be assigned to a player who has left the game, that damage simply    isn’t assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4e.&lt;/strong&gt; If an object requires a player who has left the game to make a choice, the controller of the    object chooses another player to make&#xA;  that choice. If the original choice was to be made by an    opponent&#xA;  of the controller of the object, that player chooses another opponent&#xA;  if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4f.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect requires information about a specific player, the effect uses the current    information about that player if he or she&#xA;  is still in the game; otherwise, the effect uses the last    known&#xA;  information about that player before he or she left the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4g.&lt;/strong&gt; If a player leaves the game during his or her turn, that turn continues to its completion    without an active player. If the active&#xA;  player would receive priority, instead the next player in    turn&#xA;  order receives priority, or the top object on the stack resolves, or&#xA;  the phase or step ends,    whichever is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4h.&lt;/strong&gt; When a player leaves the game, objects that player owns in the ante zone do not leave the    game. This is an exception to rule 800.4a. See rule 407, “Ante.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4i.&lt;/strong&gt; In a Planechase game, if the player designated as the planar controller would leave the game,    instead the next player in turn&#xA;  order that wouldn’t leave the game becomes the planar controller, then the old planar controller leaves the game. See rule 309.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in your example, it's actually pretty straightforward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alex's Massacre Wurm is on the stack. Bianca flashes in her own Massacre Wurm (thanks to Vedalken Orrery or whatever). Alex has no further response, so we resolve Bianca's Massacre Wurm. It comes into play and kills Alex's creatures, putting him at below 0 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Alex loses the game, his Massacre Wurm is still on the stack. It leaves the game directly from the stack, without ever resolving. Poof!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Alex loses the game, his Pacifism also leaves the game. Its effect on the creature it was enchanting is gone, just like if it had been removed any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the tricky part about these rules... Let's say Alex also had an Oblivion Ring that he had previously used to exile Bianca's Liliana of the Veil. The O-Ring leaves the game, but &lt;strong&gt;does not&lt;/strong&gt; trigger any effects when it does. Including its own. So Bianca's Liliana remains exiled forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that, assuming it was Alex's turn when he died, the other players play out the rest of the phases without an active player. If Bianca had some mana open and she wanted to cast another spell before her own turn, for instance, she could still do it on now-dead Alex's end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-04T16:52:49.483" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T16:52:49.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5466" CreationDate="2011-12-04T07:09:13.097" Score="5" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if I can play a Scheme Card and then a Treasure Map and put the Treasure Map back on top of my deck at clean up.  But I can only put the Treasure Map back on top if it's in play and not trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you play a single Treasure Map with a 2nd Treasure Map not in your hand, does it get trashed or does it only get trashed when you trash 2 Treasure Maps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T08:09:55.280" Title="What happens when playing a single Treasure Map?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|dominion-hinterlands|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5465" CreationDate="2011-12-04T08:09:55.280" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single Treasure map will get trashed first before you can Scheme it.  From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Seaside rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treasure Map&lt;/strong&gt; - You can play this without another Treasure Map&#xA;  in your hand; if you do, you trash this and gain nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scheme reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of Clean-up this turn, you may choose an Action card you have in play. If you discard it from play this turn, put it on your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Treasure Map stays in your hand, it is not a valid target for Scheme.  If you play the single Treasure Map, it will trash itself before Scheme triggers at the start of Clean-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T08:09:55.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5469" CreationDate="2011-12-04T21:11:36.760" Score="5" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding a specific Quorum card in Battlestar Galactica.  I don't remember its title, but it has in its text something like &quot;Destroy 3 raiders, a heavy raider, or a centurion token&quot;.  The question is, how should this text be parsed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Choose one of three: destroy 3 raiders, OR destroy 1 heavy raider, OR destroy 1 centurion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Choose one of two: destroy 3 raiders and one heavy raider, OR destroy 1 centurion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our playgroup ruled the variant (2) in the game we've played, but we still have our doubts, hence this question.  Ideally, the answer would have a link to an official source, but a good logical argument will also suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2094" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T22:15:00.190" Title="Battlestar Galactica: meaning of a Quorum card that destroys ships" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5467" CreationDate="2011-12-04T22:15:00.190" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card is &lt;em&gt;Authorization of Brutal Force&lt;/em&gt;. The exact text is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy 3 raiders, 1 heavy raider, or 1 centurion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The person playing the card can choose one of the three options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you'll find any official rule that will answer the question. It really comes down to standard English grammar. Option #1 is the proper way to parse that sentence. If option #2 is what was intended, it would have to be written the way you wrote it, i.e. with the &quot;and&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2011-12-04T22:15:00.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5471" CreationDate="2011-11-22T13:10:37.113" Score="30" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the main mathematical results concerning Go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go is a game with simple rules but high game complexity. It is inefficient to apply primitive chess AI methods (such as position brute force and empirical position estimation functions) to a Go game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in results in the application of mathematical game theory to Go. Are there any good results in this field?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2103" OwnerDisplayName="uhbif19" LastEditorUserId="11511" LastEditDate="2022-05-22T18:17:09.640" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T18:17:09.640" Title="What are the main results in combinatorial game theory regarding Go?" Tags="|go|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5470" CreationDate="2011-11-22T18:09:44.853" Score="33" Body="&lt;h2&gt;On Numbers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one big overarching result in mathematical Go starts with the use of surreal numbers to evaluate positions on the board. The &lt;em&gt;surreal numbers&lt;/em&gt; is a class of numbers including the real numbers as well as many, many, infinite and infinitesimal numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The surreal numbers are recursively defined; a surreal number is a pair of sets of previously defined surreal numbers, called the left set and the right set, where each number in the left set is less than each number in the right set. In Go, &lt;strong&gt;the left set represents White's possible moves, and the right set Black's!&lt;/strong&gt; The surreal number thus defined is thought of as being &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; all the numbers in its left set and all the numbers in its right set. (&quot;Less than&quot; is recursively defined as well.) Zero is the first surreal number,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0 = ({},{})&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that is, its left set is empty and its right set is empty. A more usual notation for this is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;0 = {|}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Go, 0 represents a situation where the players have reached a draw. Using 0, we can define more surreal numbers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 1 = {0|}&#xA;-1 = {|0}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, 0 is to the left of 1, and 0 is to the right of -1. In Go, 1 represents a situation where the game has ended and Black is up one point, and -1 White is up one point. Using -1, 0, and 1, we can define&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2    = {1 |  }&#xA;1/2  = {0 |1 }&#xA;-1/2 = {-1|0 }&#xA;-2   = {  |-1}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Already the surreal numbers become nontrivially useful for talking about Go! 1/2 represents a situation where Black is up a half a point. Notice that the contents of 1/2 are 0 on the left and 1 on the right, which means that if it's White's turn, White can change the position to a 0, and if it's Black's turn, Black can change the position to a 1. Thus the following in the middle of a Go board might have value 1/2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm31&#xA;$$ X X X O&#xA;$$ X . . O&#xA;$$ X X X O&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The great thing about surreal numbers is that since they're numbers, you can add them. Adding them corresponds to having situations in distinct parts of the Go board. Then you can see what the whole game's worth (i.e., how much Black will win by). Of course, this is only practical in the endgame. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Numbers&quot;&gt;this Sensei's page&lt;/a&gt; for an example of a situation worth -10 31/32. And check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tondering.dk/claus/sur15.pdf&quot;&gt;this pdf&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0201038129&quot;&gt;this book by Knuth&lt;/a&gt; to get an introduction to surreal numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;And Games&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we throw away the condition that &quot;each number in the left set is less than each number in the right set,&quot; and just let anything at all that was previously defined show up in either set, we get things such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;* = {0|0}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where the situation is not technically zero, but either White or Black can move to a position where the situation is zero. For instance, * is the value of a draw with one dame left in a ruleset where we are obligated to fill in dame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that we obtain in this way is called a &lt;em&gt;game.&lt;/em&gt; Notice that then  Conway's book &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books/about/On_numbers_and_games.html?id=tXiVo8qA5PQC&quot;&gt;On Numbers and Games&lt;/a&gt; uses &quot;number&quot; to mean surreal number, and &quot;game&quot; to mean this. Follow the links on &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?CombinatorialGameTheory&quot;&gt;The Sensei's page on Combinatorial Game Theory&lt;/a&gt; to find out more specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Main Results&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have to say the &quot;elimination of dominated and reversible options&quot; is one of the &lt;em&gt;main&lt;/em&gt; results within combinatorial game theory applicable to Go. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?q=http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download%3Fdoi%3D10.1.1.89.805%26rep%3Drep1%26type%3Dpdf&amp;amp;sa=U&amp;amp;ei=DuHLTr_ROKPt0gGZscjsDw&amp;amp;ved=0CCEQFjAD&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEvddDoPAd5RSaMODDh3jjO7HkWbA&quot;&gt;Pages 17-19 of this paper by Brit C. A. Milvang-Jensen&lt;/a&gt; explain it well. Unfortunately, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?CanonicalForm&quot;&gt;the Sensei's page on Canonical Form&lt;/a&gt; points out, the fact that a certain position may count as a ko threat may be lost when we eliminate dominated and reversible options, so the application of the result is not formally straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most salient concept from combinatorial game theory in Go is probably that of &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Temperature&quot;&gt;temperature&lt;/a&gt;, or miai value, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Cooling&quot;&gt;cooling&lt;/a&gt;. Temperature is how much more Black would gain from playing in a position than from passing, and cooling is a method of reckoning in which one imagines having to pay a tax of a certain number of prisoners for the privilege of playing in a certain position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most thorough book on mathematical Go is probably &lt;em&gt;Mathematical Go: Chilling Gets the Last Point&lt;/em&gt; by Berlekamp and Wolfe. &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?MathematicalGo&quot;&gt;This Sensei's page about it&lt;/a&gt; includes an example of a situation to which it's easy to apply the theory if you know it well, but professional 9-dans may puzzle over it to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Daniel Briggs" LastActivityDate="2011-11-22T18:27:17.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5472" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:09:58.500" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:09:58.500" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:09:58.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5473" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:09:58.500" Score="0" Body="Go played by computers through artificial intelligence" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:09:58.500" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:09:58.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5483" CreationDate="2011-11-09T17:24:31.367" Score="18" ViewCount="3346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play regularly on KGS but have been inactive for several years. I am frustrated by the Catch-22 of the KGS system: in order to play rated games, you must have a solid rating. Solid ratings come from playing many rated games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have advice for an enthusiast who wants to play competitively online? Where should I go and how do I establish a rank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user18197" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:12:46.747" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T18:07:09.300" Title="Where to play Go online?" Tags="|online|go|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-11-05T20:40:13.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-09T17:34:56.533" Score="17" Body="&lt;h2&gt;KGS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.gokgs.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO the best server for lower level games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It as an active English speaking community&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranking system is relatively meaningful, even in the lower ranks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many features in the client, such as game reviews&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T10:51:15.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-09T20:01:54.070" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;OGS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://online-go.com&quot;&gt;online-go.com&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent server if you're interested in turn-based go.  The best thing about the site is the tournament system.  There are five annual tournaments with multiple rounds in each category - even games, handicap games, and 9x9.  Some tournaments require you to win your group to advance, and some allow all players to advance, and then be matched up according to number of wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" OwnerDisplayName="TimK" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T20:01:54.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-09T20:31:41.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;FlyOrDie&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyordie.com/board-games/go.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;You can play on browser without registration, the only one requirement is java... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually I do not know if it's good, but for a fast match it works well...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Marcx" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T08:23:43.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-09T21:25:18.893" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;IGS&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pandanet-igs.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.pandanet-igs.com/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IGS has a lot of players, but going up the rank ladder can also be quite time consuming. Anyway, if you have an idea about your rank, you can set it up when you sing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their english resources have been enhanced in the last year, with a social web and a new Java-based client that's actually quite usable (including an opponent search function). Games tend to be serious and it lacks the communication facilities that you can find on KGS, but it's a good place to learn and it also has quite strong players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some robots on the ranked games room to help you get a rank if you start at BC level (beginner class).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Excalibor" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T13:13:40.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-10T02:16:24.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;GoShrine&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://goshrine.com/&quot;&gt;GoShrine&lt;/a&gt; is a good alternative to other servers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No download/install needed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No Java/Flash requirement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play in the browser simply&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Levels similar to those on kgs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility to play bots as well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's where I play when I use my &lt;strong&gt;Android&lt;/strong&gt; tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One disadvantage is there are too few players online at all time.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course you can review the links on &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoServers&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?TurnBasedGoServers&quot;&gt;pages&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2096" OwnerDisplayName="Gōng Yuán Chéng" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T08:23:46.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:51:34.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Tygem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tygembaduk.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.tygembaduk.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most popular Korean servers and well known in the West for its large player base. It was difficult to sign up to Tygem years ago, but they recently introduced an English client and website, solving this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players range from super weak to super strong (several top pros play on Tygem). Their style tends to be more agressive. There are noticeably many sandbaggers and the ranking system isn't optimal in the weaker ranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T11:09:06.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:51:53.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;WBaduk / CyberOro&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbaduk.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wbaduk.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar properties compared to Tygem. But I haven't played much there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T13:14:00.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:54:19.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;DashN&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://club.dashn.com/english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://club.dashn.com/english&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DashN is a Korean go server with an English interface. It is also known as DashBaduk or Dash &amp;amp; Dot. DashN and wBaduk are the only major Korean Go servers that offer clients with an English interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The common belief is that this is the place to play fighting games. Tactics seem to also suggest a strong emphasis on territorial reduction. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?DashN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensei's&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T10:54:19.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2011-11-10T23:42:53.540" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Dragon Go Server (DGS)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For turn-based playing I highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragongoserver.net/&quot;&gt;Dragon Go Server&lt;/a&gt;, where I play all the time, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple and clean interface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Private notes (very handy if you are playing lots of turn-based go games at once)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a client for Android and iOS and a Windows notifier&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Fine&quot; rating (kyu/dan level with +- 50%) with &quot;proper komi feature&quot; to fine tune komi based on fine rating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its rating graph (shows rating reliability, has a Games/Time switch on X axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Gōng Yuán Chéng already included a link to Turn-based go servers on the Sensei's Library, and DGS is the first on that list, but DGS should have its own special place on this list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More on DGS here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?DragonGoServer&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?DragonGoServer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="zigah" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T13:14:40.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5486" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:06:48.450" Score="11" ViewCount="4434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to solve tsumego online, not having to install a program or app locally. Are there any sites that allow this? How about for smartphones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T18:25:58.467" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T14:33:48.223" Title="Is there a site to solve tsumego online?" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:16:31.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;GoChild&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gochild2009.appspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gochild2009.appspot.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently my favorite. Has several large collections of problems. I like it for mass solving relatively simple problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you need to login with a google account. Then choose a collection on the right. And finally you need to switch to the Question or Progress tab on the right to solve problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T23:57:25.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:22:49.663" Score="13" Body="&lt;h2&gt;GoProblems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goproblems.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.goproblems.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traditional problem site. Has many user contributed problems. Personally I'm not too fond of it, since the problems often vary in style getting me out of the problem solving flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T10:22:49.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2011-11-15T20:14:17.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is my favorite: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Sp/tsumego/index-e.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hitachi.co.jp/Sp/tsumego/index-e.html&lt;/a&gt; - It's especially great for anyone between mid-SDK and dan level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="zawazawa" LastEditorUserId="8688" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T14:33:48.223" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T14:33:48.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5488" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:24:50.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Specific to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/go&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;go&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;go&lt;/a&gt;, see there for general information about go and other possibly useful tags.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to use this tag for questions about tsumego in general or for help on a particular problem.&#xA;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5484/1749&quot;&gt;&quot;Is there a site to solve tsumego online?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; for recommendations for that, or for examples of tsumego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T18:32:37.437" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T18:32:37.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5489" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:24:50.640" Score="0" Body=" Go problems, typically about life and death situations." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-20T18:32:17.157" LastActivityDate="2018-04-20T18:32:17.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5493" CreationDate="2011-11-10T11:00:48.213" Score="10" ViewCount="3425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering about certain positions that arise often. To help me understand them, I would like to study the joseki moves. Since printed joseki dictionaries are out-dated very fast, I'd prefer an electronic database if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:25:36.863" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T13:39:24.593" Title="Where can I find a good Joseki database?" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2011-11-10T11:04:21.490" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Kogo's Joseki Dictionary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://waterfire.us/joseki.htm&quot;&gt;Kogo's Joseki Dictionary&lt;/a&gt; is certainly the best known resource in the west. It's an SGF file that contains a huge list of common and uncommon joseki moves including some comments, some even with the game where they occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is reliable in general, even though there are some mistakes (that are probably difficult to spot unless you're dan or even high dan level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KJD is included in &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#kjd&quot;&gt;Eidogo online&lt;/a&gt;, so you don't need to download the SGF anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T11:04:21.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2011-11-10T11:10:20.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Daily Joseki&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dailyjoseki.com/browse&quot;&gt;http://dailyjoseki.com/browse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This joseki database is condensed from a database of pro-games. One problem with this approach is that it doesn't contain any explanations or refutations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also offers some joseki memorization system, but I never tried it myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T11:10:20.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2011-11-10T11:13:35.717" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Josekipedia&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.josekipedia.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a kind of wiki for joseki. This system has the big advantage of offering explanations, deviations from joseki and refutations,... But I don't know how complete or accurate it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T11:13:35.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2011-11-10T11:28:29.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Brugo&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brugo.be/&quot;&gt;http://www.brugo.be/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brugo is probably the only dictionary maintained by pros. It includes a few variations not seen anywhere else and tends to be very reliable (as far as I can confirm this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few tools (like a joseki quiz) rarely found anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T11:28:29.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5495" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:25:49.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Go, a joseki is a common pattern of moves that leads to a locally even result. Usually focused on the corners during the opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should prefer (or at least also use, when appropriate) &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/joseki-deviation&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'joseki-deviation'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;joseki-deviation&lt;/a&gt; for questions about specific deviations and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fuseki&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'fuseki'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fuseki&lt;/a&gt; for questions about the opening that aren't related to a particular joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online sources for joseki include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Joseki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt;, especially the Taxonomy of Joseki&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Josekipedia&lt;/a&gt;, wiki style&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#kjd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eidogo&lt;/a&gt;, you can choose to search either Kogo's Joseki Dictionary or a database of pro games&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T08:51:56.160" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T08:51:56.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5496" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:25:49.420" Score="0" Body="In Go, a joseki is a common pattern of moves that leads to a locally even result. Usually focused on the corners during the opening." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T10:42:21.153" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T10:42:21.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5498" CreationDate="2011-11-09T00:51:25.713" Score="19" ViewCount="1925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read that stones should be picked out of the bowl and placed on the board by pinching them between the tips of the index and middle finger. This seems to be a long-standing tradition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this standard around the world? Why is this grip used instead of the more obvious thumb and  index finger grip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="953" OwnerDisplayName="sjohnston" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T11:59:30.443" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T11:59:30.443" Title="Why are stones placed with index and middle finger?" Tags="|go|aesthetics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2011-11-09T00:57:39.873" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the one hand (ha, ha), because the game was popularized by Japan, and Japanese culture insists on a proper form (kata) for everything, that is proper form, and that is how you do it. I doubt that this way of holding the stones originated in Japan though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, have you tried placing a stone in the middle of a heated battle with your thumb and index finger? The grip of index/middle finger allows you to release smoothly the bottom finger and press down with the top finger, which gives you better precision and less of a chance to mess up the board position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and when you get used to it, you can also make a nice CLACK stone on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trevoke" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T14:06:16.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2011-11-10T02:33:11.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It increases precision of your aim while having an elegant look: When you are holding a stone with your thumb and index finger, the stone is held perpendicular to the board (i.e. the outer rim of the stone is pointing down towards the board), so you need to rotate it by 90 degrees as you place it down on the board, and in doing so it is more likely for your hand to touch other stones in neighbouring areas. Instead, if you are holding it with index finger and middle finger, the stone is parallel to the board, and you can place it down without disturbing other stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your hand obstructs the board less for both you and your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to make a sound with the stone is an added bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Lisa Zhang" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T02:33:11.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5500" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:27:15.143" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:27:15.143" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:27:15.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5501" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:27:15.143" Score="0" Body="The physical motions of placing a stone on the board." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:27:15.143" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:27:15.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5504" CreationDate="2011-11-11T16:43:46.060" Score="14" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed gobans are not square, but rectangular. Why is that, and what is the correct orientation of the board when playing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T12:03:31.507" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T12:03:31.507" Title="Why are the boards not square?" Tags="|go|goban|aesthetics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2011-11-11T18:32:33.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is apparently to combat an optical illusion that &quot;flattens&quot; a board in front of you (as perspective narrows it towards the &quot;horizon&quot;). Therefore, the correct orientation is with the shorter edges in front of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adrian Petrescu" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T18:32:33.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2011-11-11T19:33:28.140" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The design of Go components is all about symmetry.  Because perspective shortens the vertical height of the board, the boards are made taller than they are wide.  This way they appear to be square when you're playing.  Another similar issue occurs with the stones.  Black stones appear to be smaller than white stones, so the black stones are actually made slightly larger than the white stones to counter this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related and awesome: &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?HowManySquaresOnAGoBoard&quot;&gt;How many squares are there on a Go Board?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" OwnerDisplayName="TimK" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T14:04:39.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2011-11-15T22:16:36.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My japanese goban is exactly like that (45x42 cm²) and the effect it's actually noticeable after you have been playing for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I also own a korean folding goban which is a bit smaller (understandably as it is supposed to be easier to carry around, with accordingly slightly smaller nice glass stones) which is exactly 38.5x38.5 cm², and although I cannot now find the reference (looked over the Internet and my books) I actually recall reading that Korean boards are usually squared instead of rectangular; maybe someone can find a source for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotically, our go club Sensei (a Japanese ex-insei) once really called us out in the middle of a game cause we had inadvertently put the goban the wrong way. It was amusing and embarrasing. So much, that in the end we called it a jigo, turned the board 90º and started a new game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He actually nodded with his head and smiled the next time he came by to have a look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Excalibor" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T22:16:36.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5502" CreationDate="2011-11-16T06:49:50.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed it has to do something with perspective, but a full compensation for perpective would require a much more stretched board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the squares are stretched just enough so that vertically adjacent stones appear to be touching and not overlapping (consistent with horizontally adjacent stones). In that way, thicker stones require a deeper board than thinner stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kris Van Bael" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T06:49:50.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5507" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:29:30.613" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:29:30.613" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:29:30.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5508" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:29:30.613" Score="0" Body="A goban is a board used to play Go. It is typically made of wood and contains a grid of 19x19 lines." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:29:30.613" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:29:30.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5511" CreationDate="2011-11-11T12:10:35.967" Score="12" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike regular ishi that come in full-convex shape, Chinese stones are flat on one side. I found those stones difficult to work with, as they are not easy to pick up from the board. Granted, they lay more solid on get shifted out of place less easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the only reason, though? Why do only Chinese people use this kind of stones? Is use of those stones in decline, possibly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T03:47:30.723" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T08:48:33.353" Title="Why are Chinese stones half-convex?" Tags="|go|components|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5509" CreationDate="2011-11-11T12:40:34.820" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One nice property of half-convex stones is that there are two distinct ways to put them on the board. This is often used to play out variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T12:40:34.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5509" CreationDate="2011-11-11T13:33:56.047" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the manufacturing standpoint, a few thousand years ago it was easier to produce stones that were convex on both sides. Before the Tang dynasty, because of this, all the stones were convex on both sides (just like ishi stones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the Ming dynasty, crafting skills progressed and stones could be shaped with 1 flat side and 1 convex (good for stability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan imported the game of Go during the Tang dynasty (at that time the stones were all convex on both sides) and since Japanese are attached to their traditions, it stayed like this until now. (Which doesn't mean that the quality is inferior, it's just to stick with the tradition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the years it also became fashionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some people, Japanese stones make a better sound on the board, are easier to manipulate or are just pleasing to the eye. For others, Chinese stones are more stable and can be used on both sides to make temporary moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/265925385.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/265925385.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: To answer your last question, the use of those stones is absolutely not in decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2096" OwnerDisplayName="Gōng Yuán Chéng" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T08:48:33.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T08:48:33.353" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5512" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:32:08.783" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:32:08.783" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:32:08.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5513" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:32:08.783" Score="0" Body="The stones that are used to play. Go stones are of round, flat shape with two sides, typically convex." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:32:08.783" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:32:08.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:32:22.713" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:32:22.713" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:32:22.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:32:22.713" Score="0" Body="Chinese stones are, unlike the more common Japanese ishi, flat on one side." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:32:22.713" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:32:22.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5518" CreationDate="2011-11-08T22:28:47.957" Score="13" ViewCount="4179" Body="&lt;p&gt;While there are probably some cultural reasons, are there any general reasons a 19x19 board may be preferred?  Also, if, say, 21x21 was suddenly found to be in some way superior and a large number of player switched, would modern go strategy need to be significantly modified to account for the changes in gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Anton Golov" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T20:01:16.680" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T20:01:16.680" Title="Why is the 19x19 board so much more common than other sizes?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5516" CreationDate="2011-11-08T22:49:06.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even when you play on a 9x9 board, your basic strategy doesn't change much (or shouldn't); just the speed at which you effect your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find concrete information, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; mentions the fact the standard board had increased to 19x19 from 17x17 by the time it arrived in Japan and Korea. But it doesn't mention a reason for the increase in size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory would be that the larger board size increased the time a quality game would take, particularly the beginning and middle phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Sold Out Activist" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T22:49:06.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5516" CreationDate="2011-11-08T23:06:25.867" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 5x5 board is interesting because beginners very quickly encounter all the basic rules of go - living, dying, territory, corners, sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 9x9 board is interesting because the size is just right to develop fighting tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13x13 lets you get into the mindset of occupying corners and linking tactics together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17x17 might have been the next logical step, until people realized things were still too linear.. And then they brought it up to 19x19 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fun fact is that early 19x19 used to have two black stones and two white stones, on the corner star points, making diagonals (d4 + q16, d16 + q4), which is nowadays considered to be an opening for fighting games. It may have been a first step towards a fully empty 19x19 board, or a more spiritual yin/yang reason, who knows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19x19 board, people usually say, is interesting because it is the largest board size on which there are more points on the sides (under the third line) than in the center (above the fourth line). A 21x21 board has many more points in the center, and therefore the focus of the game would shift to fighting and living in the center, instead of trying to make territory on the sides -- since that would, obviously, just not be as beneficial anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trevoke" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T23:06:25.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5516" CreationDate="2011-11-08T23:15:37.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you multiply 19 x 19 you get 361, which is close to the number of days in a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Alex" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T00:17:38.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5516" CreationDate="2011-11-12T20:07:10.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to do with equi-distant handicap stone placement (in which each stone has equal 'effect' on the starting board position), and a balance between territory and influence aspects of the game (trying to start with each being equally important, as to make more complex fighting and strategies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5 empty spaces from one star point to another and 3 empty spaces from each star point (excluding tengen) to the board's edge creates a balance in early Go in which the first four moves were played automatically (that comment by Trevoke was true by the way, the game didn't used to begin until stones were placed on each corner star-point). That said, I can find no information that implies the Japanese version of the game has ever used anything besides 19x19, and no information that implies (more recently than nearly two thousand years ago) that China has used anything different either, and even the oldest weiqi boards found are a mix of 19x19 and 17x17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all moot though. At this point, it's no longer a matter of strategy or balance or what you think might be a better way of doing things- it's a part of culture and history. If 21x21 were suddenly found to be superior for some reason or another (though this is very hard to believe, as it throws off the balance of the game in a big way), a large number of people would not switch, so the premise is flawed. 19x19 is, and will continue to be, the most popular board size (as well as the official board size in every country in which its history is respected and professional players exist). It's not a matter of 'an aspect of the game', 19x19 IS the game. It's like asking if 3D chess will replace normal chess because of &lt;em&gt;insert rationality here&lt;/em&gt;- it's simply not going to happen, because chess will always be chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="LysanderD" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T20:07:10.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5523" CreationDate="2011-11-19T01:37:47.420" Score="28" ViewCount="3172" Body="&lt;p&gt;For children what is the youngest age that it makes sense to begin to teach them go?  Is it best to start them on a 9x9 board?  Will a child that has learned basic algebra be better suited to learn go well?  Does anyone have experience working with their own children and can share what did and did not work?  I find that teenagers want to instantly master a subject and are reluctant to invest the time it takes to begin to master go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WilliamKF" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T18:26:23.063" LastActivityDate="2020-07-21T18:08:23.030" Title="What is a good strategy for engaging children in playing go?" Tags="|go|teaching|kids|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2011-11-19T14:06:44.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you should teach them as soon as they're old enough that they won't eat the stones.  One thing you have to watch out for with really young players is that they will focus too much on capturing, and you have to try not to encourage that.  I started teaching my daughter when she was five, and she's surprisingly good at reading.  Unfortunately she hasn't really caught the bug, so we don't play too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" OwnerDisplayName="TimK" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T14:06:44.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2011-11-24T07:16:10.327" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's usually a good idea to have an &quot;outsider&quot; teach, going by personal observations and hearsays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess on why parents usually make for poor (beginning) teachers is that the children unconsciously think of it as the parent making them play a game that they will always lose to the parent at, and therefore tend to be less than enthusiastic. This may be why the children of pros so rarely play Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Laval" LastActivityDate="2011-11-24T07:16:10.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2011-11-27T19:28:35.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was teaching my cousin, I started out by explaining the rules for capture and the strategies of territory. We started out in a 9x9 area so she could get a feel for the rules without feeling overwhelmed by the size of the board. After a few games we decided to move to the full 19x19 play area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I let her play as she pleased for most of the game. Towards the end, after defeating some of her weak strategies, I started to point out advantages of placing that would thwart or weaken my goals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though I won the game, by a fair margin, the results were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;She got a basic understanding of the rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;She was able to freely try and explore options, which I would explain why they failed or succeed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even though she didn't win the game, she had the satisfaction of beat or outwit my stones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1984" OwnerDisplayName="Paul" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T19:28:35.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5526" CreationDate="2011-11-12T19:17:16.453" Score="19" ViewCount="1881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read somewhere, but unfortunately forgot where that the following enclosure is safe against the invasion at &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ White invades at 'a' and supposedly dies.&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -..a..X..&#xA;$$ -...X....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -..X.....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to defend after white &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt;? Is there a way for white to live, even in gote?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" OwnerDisplayName="dr Hannibal Lecter" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:41:04.413" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T00:23:50.043" Title="Why is this corner enclosure considered to be safe against 3-3 invasion?" Tags="|go|invasion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5525" CreationDate="2011-11-12T19:32:55.647" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, note that, unlike the more popular shape with a kosumi instead of a keima, this shape carries a lot more aji and is vulnerable to yose tesuji and approach moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ A lot less aji&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -.....X..&#xA;$$ -...X....&#xA;$$ -..X.....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and by the way, an invasion is supposed to live in gote. Invading and living in sente is something you definitely don't want your opponent to be able to. In a shape with 3 (!) black stones vs a single white stone, living has to be super hard, and even a ko is a success for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Killing the invasion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape you showed, as is, is indeed save against an invasion. It involves a tesuji you need to remember though, and you also need to be able to read tsumego at, I guess, strong kyu level to be able to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 The invasion&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -....2...&#xA;$$ -..1..X..&#xA;$$ -...X....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;$$ -..X.....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B2 is tesuji to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 White can't live&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ -.98.....&#xA;$$ -.5..X...&#xA;$$ -0.O..X..&#xA;$$ -.7.X....&#xA;$$ -6134....&#xA;$$ -.2X.....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why can't black simply block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Black fails - white gets a ko&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ -..98....&#xA;$$ -.7.56...&#xA;$$ -..12.X..&#xA;$$ -..3X....&#xA;$$ -..4.....&#xA;$$ -..X.....&#xA;$$ -........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aji&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this shape dependent on the outside? Well, first, any approach move is virtually sente:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 If black tenukies, the invasion becomes a huge danger again. But answering locally likely leads to overconcentration.&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ -.........&#xA;$$ -.........&#xA;$$ -.....X.1.&#xA;$$ -...X.....&#xA;$$ -.........&#xA;$$ -..X......&#xA;$$ -.........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, even nearby stones affect the tsumego severly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Thanks to nearby stones, the fight is tough for black, he should not have tried to kill white in the corner.&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -XO..X......&#xA;$$ -X.O56X...Q.&#xA;$$ -OO.X79.....&#xA;$$ -XOOX8......&#xA;$$ -.XX13......&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -..2.4......&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -..Q........&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the shape works, but it's so packed with aji that usually, it's better to hold back a little and play more solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T19:48:06.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5527" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:41:21.573" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:41:21.573" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:41:21.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5528" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:41:21.573" Score="0" Body="The 3-3 point in a corner. If played as the first move in a corner, it emphasizes territory." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:41:21.573" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:41:21.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5530" CreationDate="2011-11-26T10:44:33.883" Score="15" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;People may remember this game from &lt;em&gt;Strategtic Concepts of Go&lt;/em&gt; by Nagahara.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . 3 . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . 1 . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know why white has to play toward the edge with 2. When black has gone and grabbed both star points, that just doesn't seem like a fair trade somehow. So why did white make that choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" OwnerDisplayName="magnetar" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T15:44:51.657" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T15:44:51.657" Title="Honinbo 1970, match 1: Why does white need to play toward the edge here?" Tags="|go|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5529" CreationDate="2011-11-27T11:37:59.920" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I want to insist that my answer is not 'dogmatic'. It is rather the way I like to think and rather a guideline instead of a deterministic answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . 1 . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us analyze the different possible moves for White in this situation. Right now, Black is building up a large influence framework on the right. This strategies is supported by the fact that his stones on the upper left face toward the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, to do so, he interrupted the large avalanche joseki, thus giving White the opportunity to take advantage of it locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, it seems attractive for White to play in this corner. Suppose White wants to pincer like in the following diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . 1 . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, Black can settle easily, for instance like in the next figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . 2 O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . 3 . . . O . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are many many other possibilities for Black, but the important point is that White has no attack! Black has too much aji to make sabaki for White to hope to attack him. Hence, White's attack stone lost his meaning and is now floating inside Black's sphere of influence without suitable backup!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, if White wants to play in this corner, it seems natural to kill all the possible Black's aji. The perfect move for this is White 1 in the next diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This move has the several main positive points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It takes a lot of points (the corner is worth about 15 points, probably more to come).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It completely kills Black's aji.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It threatens severly Black. Indeed, now a pincer would be very severe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, Black answers at 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . 2 . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But still, the upper left part cannot be considered as Black's territory since Black is much too weak on the upper left corner. Hence the situation as to be considered as a yonrensei where White has now the initiative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Black stones in the upper left are in fact to be considered as light, forcing moves. Another way of seeing it, is to have a look at the following tewari. Suppose the following fuseki is taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . X . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wouldn't it be completely ajikeshi for Black to play like in the following diagram?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . 4 3 . . . . . X . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . 2 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$|. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .|&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" OwnerDisplayName="Thomas Connor" LastActivityDate="2011-11-27T11:37:59.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5531" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:42:47.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fuseki is different from &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/joseki&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'joseki'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;joseki&lt;/a&gt; in scale. Analysis of fuseki should include whole-board thinking (whereas a joseki is usually local aside from ladder evaluation); choosing joseki is in the scope of fuseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T16:50:32.423" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T16:50:32.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5532" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:42:47.497" Score="0" Body="The opening phase of Go games is called the fuseki. It precedes fighting and typically consists of occupying corners and sides." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1395" LastEditDate="2011-12-10T20:13:06.270" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T20:13:06.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5534" CreationDate="2011-11-12T14:22:26.853" Score="10" ViewCount="1515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur player, mostly-self taught with some help on KGS by a few awesome people. I think I now know my way around the board, and am not a complete plonker anymore, just a regular plonker :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of things I've read about Go I understand easily, but the advice of &quot;&lt;strong&gt;using influence to fight&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, otherwise known as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;don't use influence to make territory&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; still eludes me somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understood correctly, the &quot;main&quot; purpose of influence is to create territory while attacking your opponent.(?) But what happens when your opponent doesn't give you a chance to be attacked and simply gradually reduces your influence? Does it mean I have to start a fight to be able to use influence correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, territory wins games, so why shouldn't I create territory with influence if I have a chance to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" OwnerDisplayName="dr Hannibal Lecter" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:44:36.667" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:04:43.300" Title="Understanding influence and using it properly" Tags="|go|thickness|influence|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-11-12T14:41:39.217" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, are you confusing influence and thickness? See my answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5621/what-is-the-difference-between-thickness-and-heavy-or-over-concentrated-stones&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Influence and thickness obviously have to lead to territory in the end, the questions is, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rationale behind &quot;Do not use thickness to make territory&quot; is to not use it directly in a crude way. Imagine a situation like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Black's direction of attack is bad&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . 1 . 2 . . . X O . O O O . |&#xA;$$ | . . X , . . . . . , . . X X X X X O . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension to B2 is poor direction, as it, while creating some territory, is not using the wall to the fullest. White can think about attaching to the corner stone or simply extending to gain at least part of a base, and black will have a hard time attacking. Compare to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Right direction&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . 2 . 1 . . . . . X O . O O O . |&#xA;$$ | . . X , . . . . . , . . X X X X X O . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . 3 . . . . . . . . . . X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White does not have any base and is even forced to jump to the center, not having a single eye. Black can look forward to keep attacking. At the same time, black made some territory in the upper left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Extending is difficult&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . 2 . 1 . . 3 . . X O . O O O . |&#xA;$$ | . . X , . . . . . , . . X X X X X O . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . 4 . . 5 . . . . . . . X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . 6 . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using thickness to attack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word thickness, as used in Go, is approximately synonymous with strength A group of stones is thick if it contains few or no weak points and is not vulnerable to attack. It should be obvious that thickness is a good thing to have. Your opponent must be extremely cautious in the vicinity of your thickness, for he will not find any useful &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?kikashi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Forcing Move&quot;&gt;kikashi&lt;/a&gt; to play against it should his stones get into trouble. Backed up by thickness, you can attack with carefree abandon. Also, in a ko fight the player whose groups are thick will have the advantage. Hence, in the first half of the game, building thickness is just as important as making territory. The key idea in handling thickness is to treat it with respect and not to play too close to it, whether it be your opponent’s thickness or your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's consider another example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 White is very thick but horribly abuses the value&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . X . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . X . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . O . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . 2 . . O O O X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . O , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . X . 1 . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white extension to 1 in this example is, well, hideous. Clearly Black 2 is a larger move than White 1, fixing black's problems and creating territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, white should invade like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Use the thickness to attack&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . X . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . X . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . 0 . . . . . . O X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . 8 9 . . . . . O . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . 6 7 . . . 2 . . O O O X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 4 5 . . . . , . . . . O , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X 3 . . 1 . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Use the thickness to attack&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . X . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . X . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . 1 2 . . 9 . . O X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . X O . . . . . O . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . X O . 4 . X . . O O O X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X O 3 . . . , . . . . O , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X O 5 . O . X . a . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . 6 7 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . 0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black has some difficulty finding severe moves. Due to the presence of White’s thickness he had to make defensive plays at 2 (dia1) and 9 (dia2), and the invasion was a success for White. Note that 'a' still remains as a large &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?endgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Endgame&quot;&gt;yose&lt;/a&gt; point for her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Black can hardly fight back&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . X . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . X . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . X O . . . . . O X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . X O . . 2 . . O . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . X O . O . X . . O O O X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X O X . . . , . . . . O , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X O X . O . X . . 3 . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 1 O X O . . . 4 . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Black had used 18 in the last diagram to capture three stones, as with 1 in this diagram, he would have suffered a big loss. White 2 captures a large territory. It is pointless for Black to extend into the teeth of White’s thickness with 3. White 4, in conjunction with White’s thickness, deprives Black of eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your opponent has made thickness, you should try to deal with it by establishing some stones a safe distance away from it. After making such a base, you can approach more closely. However, slowly approaching thickness is, well, slow - it means you won't make points as quickly. This is a drawback of allowing your opponent to have thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Creating a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?moyo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Framework&quot;&gt;moyo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Nice moyo for black, thanks to the newly created thickness.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 7 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . # . . . . . X 5 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to White 1, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Pincer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Two-space high pincer&quot;&gt;niken takabasami&lt;/a&gt; of Black 2 in conjunction with Black , is a good strategy. The 3-3 invasion of the corner with White 3 is the usual continuation and with the sequence to 8, Black has made thickness on the outside while White has taken profit in the corner. The marked stone has now become an ideally placed as it is a good extension from both the &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?shimari&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Corner enclosure&quot;&gt;shimari&lt;/a&gt; in the upper right corner and the wall on the lower right side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Overconcentration&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably already know this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Note that the white extension is 2 space, not 3 space at 'a'.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . X . 2 . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . 1 O . . O a .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ +----------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By kicking at 1, black can force overconcentration of the white group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very same idea can be used to counter bad use of thickness. I've found a great example for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Imagine this situation.&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X , . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . O O X X O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . 1 . . . . . . O X O O X X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White is trying to use her thickness to create territory on the lower edge. We can make use of this wrong attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 7 . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . 4 . . . . . . . X . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X 5 1 2 . . , . . O O X X O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . 3 O 6 . . . . . O X O O X X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black should play &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?tsukeosae&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Attach-block&quot;&gt;tsuke-osae&lt;/a&gt; with 1 and 3. The sequence to Black 7, which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?joseki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Joseki&quot;&gt;joseki&lt;/a&gt;, will follow, leaving Black with a large profit in the corner and White with thickness along the lower side. But what is this thickness worth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 7 . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . O . . . . . . . X . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X X X O . b , a . O O X X O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . X O O . . . . . O X O O X X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . O X O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If White were to make an extension from his formation on the lower left side, the ideal&#xA;point would be at 'a'. On the other hand, the ideal point for an extension from the&#xA;formation on the lower right side would be at 'b'. The sphere of influence of these two&#xA;formations overlap. Eventually, White may have to play on one of these points to prevent Black from invading. But, for White to play on one of the points will result in overconcentration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:04:10.413" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-11-12T15:53:25.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5533/understanding-influence-and-using-it-properly/5534#5534&quot;&gt;mafutrct's answer&lt;/a&gt; is a nice explanation of influence. I just wanted to add one thing that might be useful to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of each stone as having a diamond coming out from each line. This diamond goes for 3 lines around the stone. When each stone is added around the stone the diamond expands due to the stone. This expansion is by the number of lines from the stone. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With one stone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ the shaded area shows the influence diamond&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;$$ ....?......&#xA;$$ ...???.....&#xA;$$ ..?????....&#xA;$$ .???X???...&#xA;$$ ..?????....&#xA;$$ ...???.....&#xA;$$ ....?......&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With two stones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ...........&#xA;$$ ....?......&#xA;$$ ...???.....&#xA;$$ ..?????....&#xA;$$ .???X????..&#xA;$$ .????????..&#xA;$$ .????????..&#xA;$$ .???X????..&#xA;$$ ..??????...&#xA;$$ ...????....&#xA;$$ ....?......&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MarcoRosso" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:04:43.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5536" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:45:07.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thickness is a good thing in Go, however when it gets out of hand it results in &lt;em&gt;overconcentrated&lt;/em&gt; stones, which are no longer efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T21:35:25.347" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T21:35:25.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5537" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:45:07.557" Score="0" Body="Thickness is a Go term referring to a difficult to attack group of stones with good access to the center." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T21:35:17.063" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T21:35:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5538" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:45:47.493" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:45:47.493" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:45:47.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5539" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T01:45:47.493" Score="0" Body="Influence in Go is created by a group facing the center of the board." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:45:47.493" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:45:47.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5542" CreationDate="2011-11-11T18:08:30.367" Score="18" ViewCount="699" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following position is from a 1998 China-Japan friendship match, described in Shuko's book &lt;em&gt;The Only Move&lt;/em&gt; by Hinoki Press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm31 Why B33?&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O . X . 3 1 . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . . . a O X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . 4 . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . b 2 . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . , O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot figure out any benefit to playing &lt;code&gt;B33&lt;/code&gt; as opposed to simply capturing at &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt;. There is no bad aji after &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; around the top-right corner that I can find, and it seems to actually introduce bad aji for white around &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt;. In fact, I would almost consider &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; sente, which would have prevented white from taking the big point at &lt;code&gt;W34&lt;/code&gt; (which he did take in the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There must have been some advantage to &lt;code&gt;B33&lt;/code&gt; that I'm missing -- what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adrian Petrescu" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T01:47:22.667" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T01:47:22.667" Title="Why did black avoid the straightforward capture here?" Tags="|go|professional|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5540" CreationDate="2011-11-11T20:11:31.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update: See end of post]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm only 1 dan, so I'm just guessing. My idea for that move would be to avoid the attachment at M18.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm31 The board if black captures&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O . X . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . . . 1 . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B2 is the strongest response sometimes, but after W3 neither B 'a' nor B 'b' lead to a good result as white can aim at the atari at 'c'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 &#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . a 2 1 b . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O 3 X . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . c . X . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that black probably has to block white at B2. Now that marked black stone might be better at a instead. But honestly, I don't believe in this theory myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Locally, white might play either a or b next. Or jump to the center.&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . b 1 2 . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O c X . a X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . . . B . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, regarding the sente-ness of the capture of the single stone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think cutting at 1, aiming at the atari of 'a', is crude and helps white, as white can simply extend to W2 and fixed his shape, while black got virtually nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Wrong direction&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O . X . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . . . X . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . 1 O a O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, it may be more interesting to attack the whole group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Ambitious. Maybe white does not connect at W2 in a game, though.&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O . X . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . . . X . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O 2 O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I asked several high dan amateurs. They universally agreed that they would have captured. The only reason for not capturing they could see was fractionally increased aji at M18.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T22:14:13.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5540" CreationDate="2011-11-12T00:21:24.293" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extension is meant to attack the upper white group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the whole board, the only solid territory black has is the upper right corner (the left side is open at the top and has an overlong extension at the bottom for territory-making purposes. The position is strong, which means it's good for fighting but not so good at making territory). The white, on the other hand, has a small but solid territory and influences on two sides. If black captures, white gets to attach at M18 and settle the weak group, in which case the strong black formation on the left side would be devalued by the lack of anything to attack. In that case, my intuition tells me, black would be behind (over-concentrated top-left, top left corner wall against a living group, the extension on the left closer to the stronger group versus the perfectly reasonable spread for white). The white group on the right would be slightly vulnerable, but not to peeping at 1 (see diagram below. Heavy ko with white capturing first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Counter-attack&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . . O . X . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . . . , . . . X . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . O . X . O X 4 O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O 3 O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . , O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after black extension at 33, a white attachment at M18 can be ignored by black indefinitely. J16 in particular looks like a counter attack. If white J17, black H16; white is dead (I might be wrong on this): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Counter-attack&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . 1 . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . 3 O . X . X X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . 4 2 , . . . . O X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . , O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had black captured instead of extended, white gets the hane at N17, which significantly increases white's eyespace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 With capture, white has eyespace&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O X . . . . . 1 . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O . 3 O . X 5 . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X , . X . 4 2 , . . . X . X X . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . X . O X . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . O . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, aji is extremely important when you are attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Laval" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T17:34:28.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5540" CreationDate="2011-11-12T16:20:33.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one simple reason that I think we have missed here. What if the capture becomes a Ko? If this is the case white can cause havoc in the top right corner and maybe even capture it. The connection is solid and prevents this from ever happening.&#xA;O I forgot to add one thing. The two black stones are a floating group. If white attacks them then he/she can chase them around and this is bad for black. Especially if they are captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MarcoRosso" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T16:20:33.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5547" CreationDate="2011-11-16T18:39:35.863" Score="10" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , O . . . . , . . . . . , X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |  &#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nie Weiping's book The Art of Positional Judgment begins with a chapter on fuseki. He gives this position, which did not actually occur in the game, but might have, as one that would favor black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He says that his opponent did not play at hoshi on the left hand side, because the position favors black. But he doesn't elaborate. He simply moves to the next diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But given that it's white's move, the position seems pretty balanced to me. How does it favor black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" OwnerDisplayName="magnetar" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T15:44:47.333" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T15:44:47.333" Title="Game from 1978: Why does this fuseki position favor black?" Tags="|go|positional-judgement|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-11-17T20:27:33.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thought process on that looks to be around the general strength of playing at the hoshi. If white were to play there, black would have an opening to take a third corner, but by playing on the third line, white made it harder for black to take the corner from white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1984" OwnerDisplayName="Paul" LastActivityDate="2011-11-17T20:27:33.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-11-18T02:37:30.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that it's because 3-3 is a poor basis to extend from. Once the 3-3 stone is there, the corner is solidly yours; but in exchange, you have less to build upon because the position is so low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Laval" LastActivityDate="2011-11-18T02:37:30.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-11-20T08:45:40.173" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the move to play for White is an extension on the upper side or in the lower side. Clearly, the lower side is more interesting for the following two main reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . 1 . . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , O . . . . , . . . . . , X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . 2 . . . . . , . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |  &#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Black's shimari in the upper right is low. Black is thus not interested in playing in this area  now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Black has a perfect extension at 2. His moyo is developing perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, White wants to play as in the following diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , O . . . . , . . . . . , X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . 2 . . . . . 1 . . . . . , . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |  &#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Black has now a very good erasing move at 2. White's moyo is therefore not as good as Black's position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, even if White plays its best move, Black keeps the upper hand which means that the fuseki favors Black by a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2101" OwnerDisplayName="Thomas Connor" LastActivityDate="2011-11-20T08:45:40.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5550" CreationDate="2011-11-12T14:51:13.730" Score="9" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ six=two&#xA;$$ -.a.....&#xA;$$ -....... &#xA;$$ -...OOOO&#xA;$$ -4....XO&#xA;$$ -1OOOOOX&#xA;$$ -XOXXO.X&#xA;$$ -2X5.XX.&#xA;$$ -3......&#xA;$$ --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White territory around &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; is safe.&#xA;Move &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt; can be swapped for identical result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most moves have a name (at least in Chinese) I believe &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; would be called 破 (pò) = break (not absolutely sure)&#xA;Does it have a name in english?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, in terms of points what is lost or won by both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2096" OwnerDisplayName="Gōng Yuán Chéng" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T13:58:29.353" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T17:01:32.290" Title="How many points are won/lost during this exchange?" Tags="|go|terminology|counting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2011-11-12T15:26:11.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;-Black lost 2 points, one at 5 and another one that is needed to be played at 2.&#xA;-White lost 2 points due to the reduction of 1 and 4. However white will need to defend and connect 4 - this will cost white 1 more point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So total win/loss for this is:&#xA;Black -2 points.&#xA;White -3 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Note black did not lose a point due to 2 and 3. As the exchange resulted in a equalization of points, 1 stone gained (1 point) for 1 point lost (due to the capture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="MarcoRosso" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T15:26:11.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2011-11-12T18:49:13.990" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, moves 2 and 4 absolutely cannot be swapped for the same result. If white plays at 4 first, black would connect at 2. And white has to spend another move protecting the cut. It's a whole world of difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the name for white 2 is &quot;throw-in&quot;. The corresponding Chinese name is &quot;扑&quot;, which means &quot;to leap&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's analyze the situation: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ six=two&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ -....... &#xA;$$ -...OOOO&#xA;$$ -4....XO&#xA;$$ -1OOOOOX&#xA;$$ -XOXXO.X&#xA;$$ -2X5.XX.&#xA;$$ -3......&#xA;$$ --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;versus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Optimal exchange&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ -....... &#xA;$$ -...OOOO&#xA;$$ -c....XO&#xA;$$ -2OOOOOX&#xA;$$ -XOXXO.X&#xA;$$ -1Xa.XX.&#xA;$$ -b......&#xA;$$ --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the actual game, black presumably captures two stones (2 and 6) while white also captures two stones, so that part balances out. Compared to the optimal solution (lower figure), black put 2 more stones in his own territory (at a and b in the lower figure) while white only put one more (c). So that's a -1 point for black right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The true loss for black lies in the fact that black could have had sente (lower figure), instead of gote as happened in the actual game. The point value of that is dependent on the rest of the board, but is usually quite high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Laval" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T18:49:13.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2011-11-13T13:01:29.437" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that the black mistake in the original sequence has been explained by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5548/how-many-points-are-won-lost-during-this-exchange/5550#5550&quot;&gt;Laval&lt;/a&gt;, maybe it's interesting to give an analyse of the original position. It's not very easy to tell who will be able to play first at &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Initial position&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ -....... &#xA;$$ -...OOOO&#xA;$$ -.....XO&#xA;$$ -.OOOOOX&#xA;$$ -XOXXO.X&#xA;$$ -aX..XX.&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the temperature of the board is sufficiently low (&amp;lt;6 pts) then &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; is a double sente and should be played as soon as possible by both players. (Net gain will be 1 point if black is ko master, but up to 3 points if he is not)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However let's have a look at the continuations if the other player does not reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Black continuation, 7 points&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ -46..... &#xA;$$ -32.OOOO&#xA;$$ -578..XO&#xA;$$ -1OOOOOX&#xA;$$ -XOXXO.X&#xA;$$ -XX..XX.&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W White continuation, about 6 points (12 points gote, assuming black is alive)&#xA;$$ -.......&#xA;$$ -....... &#xA;$$ -...OOOO&#xA;$$ -.....XO&#xA;$$ -.OOOOOX&#xA;$$ -XOXXO.X&#xA;$$ -OX12XX.&#xA;$$ -.3.....&#xA;$$ --------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;Black continuation is a lot bigger than white's one&lt;/s&gt;. (Sorry in my previous count, I miscounted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black continuation is only slightly bigger than white's one. This means that both players might have the opportunity to play at &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; first. Black might play it while the temperature of the board is between 7 and 6 (that is, before it strictly becomes double sente), but white will only play it below 6. So, black having the opportunity to play &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; first is a little bit more probable, and it might be taken into account when estimating the score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" OwnerDisplayName="Stéphane Gimenez" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:01:08.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5552" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:07:13.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Counting the score and remaining aware of score changes throughout the game. See also the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/scoring&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;scoring&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;scoring&lt;/a&gt; tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:47:22.997" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:47:22.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5553" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:07:13.490" Score="0" Body="Counting the score and remaining aware of score changes throughout the game. See also the [scoring] tag." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:47:22.997" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:47:22.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5556" CreationDate="2011-11-15T21:17:57.387" Score="7" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most significant difference between the New Zealand rules and the other rules for Go is that suicide is not forbidden.  In most cases, the only time this can come in handy is that you can suicide for an extra ko threat.  However, are there any instances where suicide can make the difference between life and death of a group?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="zawazawa" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T06:44:03.180" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T06:44:03.180" Title="Tsumego only solvable under NZ rules?" Tags="|go|tsumego|ko|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5554" CreationDate="2011-11-15T21:57:46.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few involving seki vs. ko or seki vs. alive, but I've not seen a demonstration on how to get there besides someone making a grave error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are, however, many suicide ko threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joshua" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T21:57:46.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5554" CreationDate="2011-11-15T21:58:36.260" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are many examples if you look up a go &quot;bestiary&quot; (=&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Status?&#xA;$$ -----------------&#xA;$$ | O O X . O X . .&#xA;$$ | O . X . O X . .&#xA;$$ | X X X O O X . .&#xA;$$ | . . O , O X . .&#xA;$$ | O O O O O X . .&#xA;$$ | X X X X X X . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is Japanese, Chinese, or AGA rules (basically anything without suicide), then white is dead. Black can fill all the inner liberties then capture the 3 stones like this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Death for W -2,4,6 = Pass&#xA;$$ -----------------&#xA;$$ | O O X 1 O X . .&#xA;$$ | O 7 X 3 O X . .&#xA;$$ | X X X O O X . .&#xA;$$ | . 5 O , O X . .&#xA;$$ | O O O O O X . .&#xA;$$ | X X X X X X . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After capturing black has 3 liberties to white's 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing NZ rules however, the status totally changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B W is alive! W2 is a suicide play at 'a'&#xA;$$ -----------------&#xA;$$ | . 6 X 1 O X . .&#xA;$$ | 4 a X 3 O X . .&#xA;$$ | X X X O O X . .&#xA;$$ | . 5 O , O X . .&#xA;$$ | O O O O O X . .&#xA;$$ | X X X X X X . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play up through &lt;em&gt;W6&lt;/em&gt; is seki. By being able to make a suicide move, white can make an eye inside and black does not have access to these extra liberties.  If black makes a move inside his own big eye space (playing at &lt;em&gt;5&lt;/em&gt; at &lt;em&gt;6&lt;/em&gt; for instance), he will not have enough liberties to win the capturing race, it will become an eye vs. eye seki.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amusing this about this position is that no matter who plays first in either instance, the status will not change, it may be left as is until the scoring phase of the game*. &#xA;Whether white is scored as unconditionally alive or unconditionally dead will vary with ruleset, even though the position is identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Clarification - Under NZ rules, black may wish to play out this sequence as ko threats, however the status of the group will not change based on who plays first.  Under non-suicide rulesets white does not even have ko threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2092" OwnerDisplayName="Mef" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T22:17:14.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5558" CreationDate="2011-11-12T19:07:50.210" Score="11" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am now at a level where I don't consider myself to be a complete beginner, and I can now recognise at least some of the mistakes made by lower level kyu players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to help other people but I'm sometimes to afraid I'll give them wrong advice and push them in the wrong direction. Having someone stronger than me in the same room do a review of my review can eliminate that problem, but that's rarely the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can one know when he's ready to teach weaker players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="184" OwnerDisplayName="dr Hannibal Lecter" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:09:01.490" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:22:01.003" Title="At what level should one try to teach go?" Tags="|go|teaching|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-11-12T19:17:14.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Whom to teach&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You definitely can teach beginners. Showing scoring, atari, ladders, simple shapes and tsumego is not a problem at all, and as your students improve, you will still be able to give them a few hints, show them tesuji and shapes they missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should however bear in mind that your knowledge is limited. You can't be completely sure about some things, so it is a good idea to tell when you're not sure, and to give ideas and reasons instead of just telling &quot;this is wrong, and this is right&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good idea is to keep a reasonable distance between you and your students. Personally, I prefer to teach people around 4 to 9 stones weaker. If they are closer, it's a little hard to teach, instead it becomes more of a joined study session (which is not necessarily bad, but it's simply not &quot;teaching&quot;). If they are further apart, I tend to dive into details too quickly and confuse them with too advanced thoughts, but this is probably just my personal weakness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one aspect to this that greatly helped me when I was DDK. At that time I had several teachers that were advancing the ranks at a similar pace as I did, and they were just a little step faster. This meant that they clearly remember the mistakes they just fixed in their play. A teacher who is many stones stronger won't necessarily remember which tesuji is learned at what level, while those slightly in front of you more often do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using references&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be useful to copy from the lessons of stronger teachers or from books. Those resources tend to be reliable, and give you a good overview of what to cover in a certain topic. For instance, if you recently read a book about various 3-3 joseki variants, or about a specific fighting shape, or a cool yose tesuji, then transfer your newly acquired knowledge to your student: Ask him if he's interested in learning about an awesome tesuji, and show him!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this, you will certainly get some questions that you didn't think of yourself yet. If you're reasonably sure about the answer, tell him, else, refer to your original teacher (or the book) to inquire about it. The nice side effect is that you gain a more thorough understanding yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-15T15:59:17.593" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-11-12T19:31:01.643" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can start to teach beginners as soon as you develop a basic grasp of Go, which I'd say is typically around 15-20kyu. Do not be surprised if your students surpass you quickly if you start teaching at that level, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, people feel comfortable teaching players whom they can beat comfortably and consistently. But this is not necessarily the case. Some of the older players serve as teachers to younger players who are actually stronger than they are--this is fine as long as the difference is due to readings skills, which cannot really be taught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, players of any rank can give students the wrong advice. After all, nobody knows the solution to Go, and even the strongest professional players frequently disagree with each other on the appropriateness of moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Laval" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T19:31:01.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-11-12T20:32:22.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best people to learn from are generally those a little stronger than you are, as most people rarely have opportunities to learn Go from professional teachers. In my experience on KGS/IGS as well as in the real-world, the strength difference should be no more than 5 kyu. If a 20kyu needs help, a 15kyu is the best person for the job, and if a 10kyu needs help, a 5kyu is the best at explaining things. This is of course a separate argument from 'teaching skill'- some people are simply better suited for teaching than others, because they understand and follow the rules below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of more than 5kyu gap- A professional teacher for something as complex as Go would tell you that you'd need to keep in mind advanced concepts when teaching a beginner, so as to not steer them in the wrong direction, but not to try and teach these concepts directly, if at all. The worse thing you can do is overload someone with information that they have no idea how to process yet- you do things incrementally, very slowly. Decide what information a student needs to advance to the next level, and give them no more than that. A beginner learns next to nothing when observing a professional game, and they'd likely learn nothing from the discussions of said game. The level is simply too high- and this idea is universal, trying to learn from a 5kyu when you're 15kyu isn't likely to have much effect unless the 5kyu understands the rules of teaching and doesn't delve into anything that's too deep to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say personally that once you reach 15kyu, you're proficient enough to teach complete beginners, but as I mentioned before, your teaching skill is also an important factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="LysanderD" LastActivityDate="2011-11-12T20:32:22.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-11-14T20:01:54.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some ideas that I believe make for a good student-teacher relationship:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The student is &lt;strong&gt;motivated to play and learn more&lt;/strong&gt; regardless of the&#xA;actual information passed down -- sometimes the simple fact that&#xA;someone  at least a bit stronger is interested in the way we play&#xA;and is willing to discuss our play is enough to keep us in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The lesson helps the student &lt;strong&gt;think about the game better&lt;/strong&gt;. This can&#xA;be facilitated even by a weaker player asking good questions e.g.:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Which of your groups are weak and which are strong? How could you&#xA;avoid making so many weak groups?&quot;&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;&quot;How much territory do you&#xA;have right now? Are you leading or behind?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The teacher helps the student &lt;strong&gt;avoid easily preventable mistakes&lt;/strong&gt;. For example: &lt;em&gt;&quot;I noticed you tend to always&#xA;respond right away. I think you could be much stronger if you&#xA;resolve to breathe twice before every more even if the move is&#xA;obvious.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="vertigo" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T20:01:54.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2011-11-16T14:46:49.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For review / teaching games, you can do this with anyone who is at least 3 kyu weaker than you. I would recommend 5 kyu after you're used to it and you've learned to tailor your comments to something the other person will understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trevoke" LastActivityDate="2011-11-16T14:46:49.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5564" CreationDate="2011-11-10T14:58:57.460" Score="19" ViewCount="1162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've reached a rank where I'd like to start and help weaker players improve their games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make a review useful for the opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I go deep into variations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talk about theory?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I comment every move until the very last one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there guidelines or best practice to give a good review?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2096" OwnerDisplayName="Gōng Yuán Chéng" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:09:46.357" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T21:00:05.163" Title="How to play teaching game and give a useful review" Tags="|go|teaching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5563" CreationDate="2011-11-10T15:33:23.817" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a teacher, the most important is to reach your student and provide him the information he wants and requires in a way he can understand. You have to see how he likes to work and adjust to him accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can give you general advice as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Time settings and at what point to explain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The teaching process should start prior to the game. Talk to your student before playing even a single move. Is there anything he wants to focus on? Or is he unsure what his weaknesses are? Keep the information gained here in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible, though pretty rare, to teach during the game: This is a matter of style, but I like to pause the game after important mistakes or turning points and explain them. Alternatively and more common, wait until the end before you start explaining. Then again, how do you actually define &quot;end&quot;? There is no need to play until resignation or scoring, you are also free to hold the game at any point and start the review (I never had a student who minded this practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're giving the student enough time and explain during the game, chances are you're forced to cut the game off at some point because it would take too long. Actually, I finish only a tiny fraction of my teaching games. Most of them are stopped in middle game or even earlier, but thanks to my teaching style explained later in this answer the student will still get told enough to make his head spin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if possible, give him a lot of time. Blitz games are unsuitable for teaching. I like to play without time or with 5x60 byoyomi. If he lacks thinking time, you could not expect him to play his best moves and show his full strength. Teaching is not about stupid blunders, it is about subtle mistakes. On the other hand, if you only want to offer him a chance at playing a stronger player and possibly encounter and learn new shapes, a blitz game is fine, just tell him to review the game himself later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to explain&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now that for whatever reason you're in explanation mode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, let's talk about situations that came up in the actual game. During the game you should have noticed what exactly the student did wrong in this situation. Did he misread? That's easy, show him the right way, possibly showing the the tesuji he missed. Did he play bad shape? Show him the right shape and how it is superior. Did he play a slow move, or a too wide extension? Explain the reasons and show him the right move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, there are theory questions the student may be curious about, either because they relate to the game or because he's just interested. What is the idea of the Chinese opening? What is its intention in comparison to sanrensei? Show him examples, tell him about the basic characteristics. What's the joseki move in this corner shape? Or earlier, what is the right joseki to chose on this board? Show him the right moves, show him a few common mistakes and explain why they are bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theoretical knowledge required is &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; present when you're used to giving and receiving teaching games. However, I met high dan players that had basically no clue about fuseki (they compensated by insanely strong shape sense and reading ability). In case that applies to you, grabbing a good book on the subject will certainly help very efficiently (and make you a even stronger, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Go for the root&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One particular thing I love to do, but which requires the student to cooperate, is asking him questions. &quot;Look at your move. Is it a good move?&quot;. &lt;strong&gt;Don't just show them, make them show you!&lt;/strong&gt; Many teachers disregard this point and simply show the correct moves, but I believe it is rather crucial to remove the roots of the wrong moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make him think about the move, make him critically question his motives and intentions. If he comes up with the right answer, splendid. If not, even better, you just found a flaw in his &lt;em&gt;reasoning&lt;/em&gt;. Those mistakes are the most important, and correcting them is the best thing a teacher can possibly achieve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can do this for &lt;em&gt;both wrong and correct&lt;/em&gt; moves. Is he sure that his correct move is correct? Or was he unsure? You're basically trying to make him be confident about any move he plays. He should be able to tell you his reasons for any move, no matter wrong or right. &quot;I don't know why&quot;, &quot;I played there because it's joseki&quot;, &quot;I was vaguely afraid so I added a move just to be sure&quot; are typical examples of answers you should focus on and make him understand the situation better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should let him know in advance that you'll ask trap questions to avoid confusion. &quot;Do you really think your move here is correct?&quot; - &quot;Yes I am!&quot; - &quot;Excellent, you're right!&quot; will occur often in the review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This style of review takes a lot of time, but I strongly believe it is the right way to teach in the West since players won't be able to study for themselves as much as they can in the East with tons of strong players and knowledge around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though that you need to take care not to demand too much of your students. If you notice that they reached their limits of understanding, e.g. because they simply cannot read a tsumego well enough, it would be counter-productive to force them to try. In their mind, the situation is simply too complicated, and rightfully so. You should simply move on, maybe a few moves later the situation became easier to grasp, and they can evaluate it more accurately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mentioned that I like to play without time. This fits perfectly in this scheme: If he's been thinking for more than a minute, ask him: What are you contemplating? What moves are you considering? What are your intentions (life, get sente, get a vital point, find largest point on board, whatever)? Do you understand the situation (you're dead if you don't play the right move - are you thinking about this or mistakenly about something else)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to apply this to the white moves as well. Especially ask him about your mistakes in case you noticed them. Give him confidence to try and find weaknesses in your moves, make him build up kiai.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Know stuff&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unsure at any point, say so. &lt;em&gt;Never&lt;/em&gt; try to convince him of anything without understanding the situation yourself (understand it at least enough to be able to convincingly explain it to someone of your strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very useful to have some example (pro) games in mind that highlight the situation you're focusing on. If you have trouble memorizing pro fuseki (like I do), instead try to come up with reasonable similar situations. This helps a lot to understand why certain joseki suck on certain boards and are great on a slightly different board, especially with weaker students that lack the visualization ability yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And obviously, knowing the standard content of teaching games is most useful in any situation. Tell your student about the table shape, tell him about the L+2 shape in the corner, tell him about monkey jumps and the wall+1 rule. This stuff can be extracted from books or learned from good teachers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was a kyu player and even now, I got regular lessons by a great teacher who, interestingly, isn't &quot;strong&quot; in the classic sense (low-mid dan). In practice that never mattered and thanks to his particular style I learned very quickly and always found his lessons most interesting and understandable. The teaching style described in this answer is a continuation of his ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T17:35:36.060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T17:35:36.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5566" CreationDate="2011-11-13T11:48:17.227" Score="10" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it very difficult to handle the handicap when my opponent is given 6 or more stones. I don't really like to force something complex when I know it could be severely punished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right way to handle such handicaps must be to play opening moves that are very light and flexible. However, I have never found any books providing guidelines for playing white in handicap games. Are there any? Or is there any kind of general advice I should know about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" OwnerDisplayName="Stéphane Gimenez" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T22:44:46.900" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T22:44:46.900" Title="How to handle handicap as white?" Tags="|go|handicap|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5565" CreationDate="2011-11-13T12:32:16.437" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few good books about handicap go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?HandicapGoTheBook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Handicap Go&lt;/a&gt; is a really good one, but it's out of print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GetStrongAtHandicapGo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Get Strong at Handicap Go&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of examples of good play by both White and Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/6734448/Kages-Secret-Chronicles-of-Handicap-Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kage's Secret Chronicles of Handicap Go&lt;/a&gt; discusses handicap games played between two professional players of nearly the same rank. It also includes reviews of games with professionals giving stones to amateurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a high-handicap game, avoid strengthening Black's stones. If Black plays correctly you won't be able to avoid this, but then you need to lower the handicap.  You need to keep your groups light, and think about sacrificing often.  Many times you can convince Black to capture a few unimportant stones in gote.  As long as you keep from making Black too solid, you should be able to exploit shape problems later in the game, and in the endgame you should be able to pick up 20 points or so.  Also, never resign.  You never know when Black will give you a gift :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" OwnerDisplayName="TimK" LastEditorDisplayName="user13460" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T16:20:42.303" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T16:20:42.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5565" CreationDate="2011-11-13T23:00:37.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You obviously have to read better and avoid any unnecessary losses. Your endgame has to be superior, and you should not make any tsumego mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, playing flexible is probably the most important idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, you should also see further and try to let black have what he wants, while you're working for a bigger goal that he is unable to see. There's a nice saying: &quot;White is always trying to kill a bigger group than black is trying to save.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea that is very fun to use (and that also requires you to have superior reading) is to make black overconcentrated. In many instances, black won't even notice that his 20 stones make for a solid 8 points of territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your tsumego and shape skills are superior, you will also be able to find invasions that hurt black. Frustrate him by invading right before he could close his area - or happily punish if he forgot to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, watch out for moyo potential and make a plan for taking care of it early - limiting with the idea of overconcentration could be a way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that, playing flexible is probably the most important idea. Keep your groups light as necessary, avoid giving black an easy target, and solidify them in an active way later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T23:00:37.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5565" CreationDate="2011-11-14T19:44:50.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In high handicap games the most important thing for white is &lt;strong&gt;patience&lt;/strong&gt;. Black starts with an overwhelming advantage and it is easy to become discouraged if your opponent does not make huge mistakes right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But White must remember that a typical game lasts around 150-200 moves and even if each of her moves is just &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; more efficient (let's say one point on average) then at the end of the game White will have gained back well over a 100 points even if Black does not make a single large blunder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="vertigo" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T19:44:50.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5569" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:11:55.040" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:11:55.040" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T03:11:55.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5570" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:11:55.040" Score="0" Body="Handicap refers to ways to make weaker players more competitive against stronger ones. In Go, for example, it takes the form of extra stones placed by the weaker player. The goal is to make the game even and challenging for both players." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T14:55:55.170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T14:55:55.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-14T03:31:12.320" Score="12" ViewCount="2226" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the difference in rank is one (examples: 1 dan vs 1 kyu, or 1 kyu vs 2 kyu), the weaker player takes black and the komi is 0.5 for white (sometimes called &amp;quot;no komi&amp;quot; even though that's not technically correct).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From then on add one handicap stone per rank difference (black playing first with white getting 0.5 komi is equivalent to one handicap stone if free placement is used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this formula doesn't work after about a 5-rank difference, because handicap stones start reinforcing each other. With some discussion I was able to find others who seem to know this is true. I can find no authority however, nor anybody who seems to have any idea of the correct formulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joshua" LastEditorUserId="36569" LastEditDate="2021-07-22T09:00:34.300" LastActivityDate="2021-07-22T09:00:34.300" Title="What is the formula of rank difference to handicap stones?" Tags="|go|handicap|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-11-14T07:12:09.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black going first without Komi is equivalent with 0.5 stones. 6.5 points of Komi is also equivalent with 0.5 stones (they even out). 3 stones handicap is equivalent with 2.5 stones. &#xA;E.g.: on IGS, players with a rank difference of 3 will be auto matched with 3 stones of handicap and reverse Komi. Rating systems also use this rule to predict the outcome of a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to your question, you are basically asking if handicap is linear: if A and B require a handicap of X and B and C require a handicap of Y, does that mean that A and C require a handicap of X+Y ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience this is pretty much true. However, a handicap game requires somewhat different tactics (or at least a shift in balance). So some players are more experienced at receiving handicap while others are better at giving handicap. That can influence the odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kris Van Bael" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T07:12:09.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-11-14T10:04:13.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Kris noted the first handicap stone is actually just half a stone. Sensei's has a related page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?ProperHandicap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Proper Handicap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main part of the question seems to be if scaling the handicap linearly in the rank difference works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it is a good approximation, at least up to 6 stones. But this depends a lot on style. I'm a relatively aggressive fighting oriented player, and I tend to do pretty well in handicap games as white. But there are other players whose strength is a proper opening game in an even game. I assume they will have a harder time in high handicap games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience high handicap games tend to be very unstable. Wins by a 100 points in both directions are very common for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="854" OwnerDisplayName="CodeInChaos" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T10:04:13.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-11-14T14:50:18.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding your question: To my knowledge, handicap is intended to be linear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The observation that large handicap games tend to end with a large score difference is not necessarily true. A large difference in score is usually a group dying involuntarily, which happens in both high handicap and even games on a regular basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is far less common to resign in handicap games. Regular games in comparison often feature a high score difference as well, but those games are usually just won by resignation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to keep in mind is that the rank system in use may very well be wrong for larger rank differences. You can see this very clearly by just comparing the rank difference of various players in different rank systems. For instance, KGS ranks tend to be a little bit more spread out than EGF ranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that two players with a difference of 8 stones on KGS may be only 7 stones apart in EGF rank. Which makes you wonder which is correct - and unless you got a huge database of high handicap game results, you won't know which of the systems is closer to the statistical truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to my final thought: The EGF rank system (along the European Go Database) clearly specifies the intended win percentage for certain rank differences, also taking into account handicap. According to their formula, it is linear. I believe that AGA uses a similar system, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit (2018):&lt;/strong&gt; I have recently worked more closely with rank computations than I hoped, and there is one thing I want to add, described &lt;a href=&quot;https://wismuth.com/elo/calculator.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (I should note that some other information on that page appears to be outdated or wrong, in particular regarding AGA rating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The skill difference that is supposed to be balanced by handicap stones depends on the skill of the players. That is to say, a single handicap stone in a high level match has a lot more impact than it does in a game between beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can in fact be quantified: A handicap stone in a pro game equals around 300 elo difference, around 150 for high dan amateurs and only around 50 (!) for kyu players. This adds another dimension in how rank differences and stone differences between players interact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8w7D8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8w7D8.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, these data also show that adding more handicap stones is linear at least up to 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2018-03-15T13:47:22.107" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T13:47:22.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5576" CreationDate="2011-11-13T23:18:46.757" Score="20" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/is-there-an-equivalent-of-deep-blue-in-the-go-world/5624#5624&quot;&gt;elsewhere&lt;/a&gt; that a 9p could not give 7 stones to a 2p. I have no databases available and wondered if this is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus&lt;/strong&gt;:  If they aren't representative, why not? And is there a historical reason for it developing that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2006" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T18:11:08.503" Title="Are professional ranks representative for how many stones of handicap players can give each other?" Tags="|go|handicap|rank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5575" CreationDate="2011-11-13T23:48:15.570" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Historically, pro ranks were an indicator of playing strength. It was said that 3 (later: 4) ranks are about a stone difference. To my knowledge, there never was a time when 1 rank difference actually meant 1 stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 20th century, there was a sudden and increasing change in the strength of new pros. This is generally considered to be a consequence of intensified training in insei schools as well as the advent of the internet and the worldwide communication it enabled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, earlier, Go schools occasionally developed secret moves - new moves that would stump many opponents who were not familiar with it. Nowadays, such a move would be known by millions right after it is played, and days later, everyone would have studied it already. Modern insei schools make use of this and always present their students with the most up-to-date material and worldwide research, making sure their students are fully aware of the current moves in Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is incredibly fierce competition among the insei. Only a handful of new pros is selected each year, and even the slightest mistake will ruin your chance to become pro. Therefore, everyone is working extremely hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to new pros being able to compete on par with previous pros. They already possess the same knowledge as their seniors, and thanks to their young age get less easily exhausted from long, intense games, they are sometimes even said to be stronger than older pros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, to be successful as a professional Go player, you have to become pro early (around the age 15) and win titles while you still have a slight edge over the competition. In just 10, or 15 max, years, you'll be overwhelmed by the next generation. Very few pros could stay at the top for an extended period of time, one of the most notable being Go Seigen, who dominated the Go world for 30 years. But apart from exceptions like him, modern pros, even huge talents like Lee Sedol, are falling behind very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that rank is basically meaningless. A new 1p may well as strong be as an older 9d. Or the other way around. I asked several pros about this and the reply was always the same: Rank is no longer a useful measurement of playing strength. Personally, I call it an 'experience indicator', but even that is not completely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To compare pros, you need to look at their results in games over time. There are various lists that attempt precisely that, and those lists are a lot more useful than the rank given. Since young pros who do very well get promoted quickly they ensure that the top spots in those lists tend to be occupied by 9 dans, still.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, high dan promotions in China and Korea are linked to great performance in title tournaments - both for amateurs and professionals. For instance, a Chinese 6 dan (amateur) is a 5 dan who won a regional tournament. A Chinese 8 dan (amateur) is the current champion of all China (meaning there is only one of them at any time), former champions are 7 dan (*). In a similar fashion, winning an international tournament yields an immediate promotion from 1p to 8p in Korea, while regularly, advancing the ranks is a lot slower. (I'm not 100% up-to-date on details of this topic though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seen this way, ranks of new pros can be seen as a measurement for achievements. Being awarded 9p is indication of outstanding accomplishments. A rank of 1p should not be seen as failure, especially with young pros it simply means their accomplishments will be for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edited to add in 2014:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At times there is a promotion for professionals that specifically promote Go in the West. This is meant to compensate for their lack of tournament experience that is implied by their increased teaching. Since pro rank is an important factor in payment (when teaching), this is an important help for pros working in the West. I am specifically aware of a Korean promotion of Korean professionals from 8p to 9p or from 1p-7p to 8p.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) This information about Chinese 6d-8d amateur players appears to be incorrect. I've received multiple explanations as to what the current state actually is, and they all differed, so I'm at a loss here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T18:11:08.503" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T18:11:08.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5577" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:14:54.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go uses a similar rank system as various martial arts. Beginners starts out as kyu, experienced players are dans (&quot;black belts&quot;). There are various rank systems for the different countries and Go servers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:53:53.213" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:53:53.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5578" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:14:54.020" Score="0" Body="Player ranking systems are used in some games, including Chess and Go.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:05:59.447" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:05:59.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5580" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:44:10.673" Score="23" ViewCount="7927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that on a 9x9 board, the number of possible moves is small enough that computers could exhaustively search all possible permutations and compute a line of play that always wins by moving first.  If so, by how many points are you guaranteed to win by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this been done, and was it determined where the perfect move is for a 9x9 board to guarantee a win when going first.  Can you guarantee a win even with some number of handicap due to the perfect first play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="WilliamKF" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:09:01.193" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:09:01.193" Title="Is playing on a 9x9 board a solved problem?" Tags="|go|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2011-11-09T01:59:33.307" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go was solved up to 5x6 only as of 2009. &lt;a href=&quot;http://erikvanderwerf.tengen.nl/mxngo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This table&lt;/a&gt; by Erik van der Werf and Mark Winands shows how many points komi to give white such that the solution is a draw for boards up to that size. For instance, on a 5x6 board White should be given 4 points; on a 5x5, White should be given 25 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that 25 points is the size of the 5x5 board; ergo, White cannot make a living group on a 5x5 board given optimal Black play (which, I'm not positive, but I think can begin with play in the center). With the 25-point komi, using territory scoring, it becomes optimal play for Black to begin by passing, as it is the case that if Black places a stone, White can win by passing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine that with the current state of algorithms and processing power, we're not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; far off from solutions for 6x6 and 7x5 Go. But to give a sense of how the problem scales, &lt;a href=&quot;http://erikvanderwerf.tengen.nl/pubdown/SolvingGoICGA2009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their 2009 paper about solving 5x6 Go&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question now is when would 6×6 be solved? In 6 years time we went from a surface&#xA;of 25 (i.e., 5×5) to a surface of 30 (i.e., 5×6) of solved Go boards. This was not&#xA;only because of better hardware but also due to a better search engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can try to predict when MIGOS II would be able to solve 6×6 in a reasonable amount&#xA;of time by extrapolating the current results....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An optimistic extrapolation suggests that on current hardware MIGOS II would require a&#xA;few years to solve 6×6. However, we could easily be underestimating by a factor of&#xA;100. Nevertheless, we believe that with some effort αβ-based solvers, such as MIGOS&#xA;II, should be able to solve 6×6 within the next 5 years, especially because signiﬁcant&#xA;improvements in the evaluation function are still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Daniel Briggs" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T16:34:47.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2011-11-09T02:22:44.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. 6x6 is the largest actually solved. 7x7 has a solution that is believed to be correct but is not proven to be correct. 9x9 is not anywhere near solved yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Joshua" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T02:22:44.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5579" CreationDate="2011-11-09T08:43:47.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2009 (looks like it was a good year for computer go) a program called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lri.fr/~teytaud/mogo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MoGo&lt;/a&gt; managed to beat 9p and 5p players on a 9x9 board with no handicap. The program uses Monte-Carlo tree searching and ran on a research grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Adrian Muresan" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T15:54:55.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5583" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:16:23.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beginners often start playing Go on a 9x9 board. These games are shorter and of lower complexity, but still offer players the chance to hone their fighting skill. It is less common for advanced players to use a 9x9 board, but is still done for variety or for a particularly short game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:53:05.913" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:53:05.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5584" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:16:23.580" Score="0" Body="Go played on a 9x9 board." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:51:02.293" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:51:02.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5587" CreationDate="2011-11-08T22:50:14.140" Score="12" ViewCount="1271" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being able to count is important - in the end, it's about the points. Does anyone have any tips to get used to counting during a game, little things that can speed it up or make it a little less tedious in the beginning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Trevoke" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:16:58.603" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T03:59:48.733" Title="What is a good way to get used to counting points?" Tags="|go|counting|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2011-11-08T23:06:44.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I was taught is to count groups of two points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0.5 for each empty space (1 for every 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 for each of the opponent's dead stones on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, this makes counting board score much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="rintaun" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T23:06:44.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2011-11-08T23:35:47.890" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advice I have heard most is to count in pairs.  The human mind can easily count groups of around four objects, and so it may be beneficial to eventually move to counts of fours, but pairs tend to be easier in my experience.  Count a dead stone as one pair, and if you see a lone empty spot, just mark that in your mind and continue, removing the mark and adding a pair once you see another lone empty spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your count for one colour, either subtract that number from 50 (or 100, if there's a lot of empty room), or start counting down.  Otherwise, you are very likely to forget the score you counted, making you start all over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful trick is to simply balance large pieces of territory against each other, and then count what's left;  this is less accurate, but in the mid-game speed may be more important and you may be unable to give good estimates, anyway.  Make sure to multiply the value of an area by the probability of the player keeping it;  a good way to do this automatically is to count in threes or fours when looking at large areas that are very likely to be invaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fairly obvious trick is to count in your opponent's time; however, be careful that you still count the effect of your move before you play it (if possible), and not afterwards.  Especially in the yose, if you have time, try to count how many points a move will cost.  In many cases, you may find that taking sente may be worth more than responding to the opponent's move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you happen to have trouble keeping track of the score, consider learning binary;  it'll let you count to 1023 on your fingers, which should be enough for most games. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Anton Golov" LastActivityDate="2011-11-08T23:35:47.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2011-11-09T06:10:56.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also try an intuitive count as a way of training that intuition.  Think about how you've come out in the exchanges you've had with your opponent.  Did you get something and your opponent got something?  That's roughly equal. Did you come out with a very poor result in one place and your opponent in another?  That's also roughly equal at that point.  If you've been robbed and your opponent has not then you're behind.  This approach will also lead to you asking others for advice on how to assess positions and results of exchanges.  In the long term this is very useful.  Point by point counting is actually easier to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Harpreet" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T06:10:56.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2011-11-09T09:01:56.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make notes. Note what are your estimates of every territory avery 10 or 20 moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only it will allow you to track the score but also you will learn on your mistakes (in the end of game you will get accurate score). But also you will learn values of particular moves expanding territories. You also will get a grasp on &lt;em&gt;value of thickness&lt;/em&gt; as territories will start to appear &quot;out of thin air&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also with time you will remember all you have written, as it will become a habit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Łukasz Lew" LastActivityDate="2011-11-09T09:01:56.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5591" CreationDate="2011-11-11T21:43:02.997" Score="8" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played several games where I have gained a good chunk of side territory, but lost it due to invasion by the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below is an example, ignore the placement outside of the area black surrounds and focus on solving the problem inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Defending the side&#xA;$$ .............&#xA;$$ .....OOOOOOO.&#xA;$$ ..XXXOOXOX.XO&#xA;$$ OOX..XX.X.X.O&#xA;$$ OX.....X...X.&#xA;$$ XX.........X.&#xA;$$ X..........X.&#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White has several points of injection, what would be some good strategies to make any attempt at minimizing or taking away this territory fruitless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1984" OwnerDisplayName="Paul" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T16:08:48.850" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:37:44.573" Title="How to protect a large piece of side territory" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2011-11-11T22:00:22.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is: Don't, unless you really have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation shown in your question is already solid territory. In this case, adding any inside stone to &quot;protect&quot; your territory further will reduce your score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try to decide if there is anything that can be exploited in your area. Let's see how it is in your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Initial position&#xA;$$ .............&#xA;$$ .....OOOOOOO.&#xA;$$ ..XXXOOXOX.XO&#xA;$$ OOX..XX.X.X.O&#xA;$$ OX.....X...X.&#xA;$$ XX.........X.&#xA;$$ X..........X.&#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a simple rule of thumb: Imagine your opponent playing all inside forcing moves in sente, then try to find the vital point. Is there a way to live?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Is there a way to live? Even if black plays very simple, white cannot do anything after B10.&#xA;$$ .............&#xA;$$ .....OOOOOOO.&#xA;$$ ..XXXOOXOX.XO&#xA;$$ OOX.0XX6X4X8O&#xA;$$ OX219..X537X.&#xA;$$ XX.........X.&#xA;$$ X..........X.&#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not — as in this example — do not add stones. If you are unsure, it is good practice to still play away (this is vaguely related to the concept of kiai). As sole exception, if you're far ahead and it's an important game, well, I suppose you may add an inside move to make 110% sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, sometimes you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have to defend without question. Usually, you should try to defend actively, by moving out or attacking a weakness of your opponent's stones to make your own stones more secure. If that is impossible, simply add a move at the vital point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is the vital point? Shape sense will tell you. Around 10 kyu you should see spots that defend most or all weaknesses. Until then, there is no recipe, so just keep playing until you've built up enough experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, as a rule of thumb, try to fix potential cuts, make sure every part of your group has enough eyespace or is solidly connected. If the inside area is very large, play somewhere in the center to make divide the potential invasion space in two fractions, each too small to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T15:24:47.210" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:24:47.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5593" CreationDate="2011-11-11T17:43:13.803" Score="15" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;When extending into what is basically open territory, how far can you extend to increase your influence/moyo, without inviting an invasion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1330" OwnerDisplayName="jkerian" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T10:25:39.240" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T10:25:39.240" Title="How far can you safely extend from your own wall?" Tags="|go|extension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5592" CreationDate="2011-11-11T18:30:28.373" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choosing the right distance for an extension basically depends on your goal in extending as well as the relative strength of stones in that area. Also, we need to differentiate between extensions to just explore open areas and extensions from existing walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extensions from a wall&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the basics first. There is a well known rule of thumb, called the &quot;wall plus one&quot; rule. If you got a wall of height &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;, extend &lt;em&gt;n + 1&lt;/em&gt; spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your wall has a height of 2. Consequently, the basic distance for an extension should be 3 spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Wall of 2, extend 3&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . O . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . W . . . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a &quot;wall&quot; of height 1 (that is, a single stone), the safe distance is 2 spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Wall of 1, extend 2&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . W . . O . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Safe&quot; means that is is difficult to invade and split your stones. The reason why it is safe is that you can either capture an invading stone, or at least connect your stones so you're not left with two weak groups. There are several midgame joseki that revolve around this, and the details will become more apparent as your reading grows stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Safe distance: Difficult to invade, white can choose from A or B to kill or cover the invading stone&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . a b . O . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O . 1 . O . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extending further than wall-plus-one distance means your position is more open to invasion and typically leads to bad shape (it's difficult to fix the invasion point without becoming overconcentrated). On the other hand, extending less wide leads to immediate overconcentration. Neither is desirable, so especially beginners should heed the wall-plus-one rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Unnecessarily difficult: Two wide extensions are far easier to invade.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . 3 . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . 2 . , . O . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . O . 1 . . O . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extensions to explore open areas&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, you simply want to extend along a side without having any kind of wall. In that case, the usual idea is to simply play in the center of the stones on that side (no matter whom they belong to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Simple extension along the side&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . 1 . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that, since you intentionally ignored the wall-plus-one rule, your opponent will be able to invade and split you. However, since you played right in the center, you can simply extend to get a base (this leads to the concept of miai), while your opponent will be left with a single stone stuck between two relatively safe groups of yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Invasion is possible, but we can handle it&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . 3 . . 1 . 2 . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, you want to adjust the distance slightly, but this dives into the realms of tactics already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Relative strength adjustment&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stronger you are, the further you should go, and the stronger the opponent, the more tight and defensive should you be. What does this mean in practice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent is strong around, sometimes the wall-plus-one rule should be changed to wall-plus-zero, i.e. a tight extension. This means, in the classic sense of the word, overconcentration, but it makes for more safety which might be more important. Typically, this is chosen if the opponent already has a checking extension that interferes with your extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 It's a good idea to hold back sometimes.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . O . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . X . . 1 . . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extending further may provoke an invasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 After B6, black can connect on either 'a' or 'b' and white has cuts.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . 5 . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , 3 4 . O O . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . X . 1 . 2 . O X X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . b . 6 . a . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White can try to dodge, but is left without a base while black got extra points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 No base, no points.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . 7 5 3 . O O . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . X . 1 4 2 . O X X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . 8 6 . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare to when there is no extra stone on the lower side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 The invasion does not work that well: Black can't escape, the invasion failed.&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . 5 6 . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , 3 4 7 O O . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . 1 . 2 . O X X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you're really strong somewhere, the correct distance is &quot;as far as possible&quot;; ignore the vast space and go right to your opponent's corner. If he dares to invade and split your extension stone, attack him and make him suffer by using your thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 Wide extension is desirable&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O . . . . . . . . . . X X O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . X . . X O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . 1 . . . . . . X . . X O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T01:05:11.587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T01:05:11.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5594" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:18:19.363" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:18:19.363" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T03:18:19.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5595" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T03:18:19.363" Score="0" Body="A moyo is a large scale framework that is not definite territory yet." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T03:18:19.363" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T03:18:19.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5598" CreationDate="2011-11-10T09:42:23.753" Score="7" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter the material (board, stones) being used, pros are able to create a very sharp, loud, intense and beautiful sound when placing a stone (which immediately sits perfectly placed on its intersection). I've been playing for a few years and taught myself how to place stones, but I've never been able to constantly reproduce that sound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know the secret behind it? Or is it really just experience by placing millions and millions of stones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T13:00:40.593" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T13:00:40.593" Title="How can I create that sharp, intense sound when placing a stone?" Tags="|go|goban|aesthetics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2011-11-10T12:16:54.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A large part of it is probably the quality of the board.  The table boards professionals play on in major events have a pyramid shape cut out of the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three widely accepted reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make sure the inside of the board is dry so it doesn't warp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To improve the clack sound made when playing a stone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To hold the blood of kibitzers who interfere with the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" OwnerDisplayName="TimK" LastActivityDate="2011-11-10T12:16:54.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5596" CreationDate="2011-11-10T13:01:16.517" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the stone is held properly it rests on your index finger being held by your middle finger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You place the stone on the board hitting it with your index finger and the stone. It has been suggested this first sound is the &quot;bah&quot; sound in the Korean name for the game (Baduk/Paduk).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, you push the stone with your middle finger so it slides off your index finger. This causes it to snap onto the board producing a distinctive click (the &quot;dook&quot; sound).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Goran" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T06:14:06.790" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T06:14:06.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5601" CreationDate="2011-11-10T13:09:19.437" Score="13" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most commonly asked questions of beginners. How do ranks work in Go for amateurs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do we start backwards? And why do we suddenly count upwards again? What is the difference between 9d and 9p? How is this related to rating? What are the basic differences between ranks used in different countries and different servers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-06-29T14:34:04.567" LastActivityDate="2017-06-29T14:34:04.567" Title="How do ranks work in amateur Go?" Tags="|go|rank|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2011-11-10T14:49:56.537" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the basics. Beginners start out as &quot;30 kyu&quot;. As they get stronger, the number decreases to 29 kyu, 28 kyu ... down to 1 kyu. Kyu means &quot;student&quot; and is commonly abbreviated 'k'. The range from 10k to 30k is called DDK (double digit kyu) while 1k - 9k are SDK (single digit kyu).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between each rank is supposed to be 1 stone of handicap. That is, an 8k should give 3 handicap stones to an 11k. All handicap games are played with komi of half a point. So an 4k playing a 3k plays black, not placing any additional handicap stones, and white receiving 0.5 komi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a player surpasses 1k he becomes 1 dan, &quot;master&quot;, abbreviated 'd'. Dan ranks go from 1 dan ('shodan') to 7 dan for amateurs (occasionally to 8 dan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Professional players are obviously stronger than amateurs, since they studied the game very intensely for years and received training by pros. Only top amateurs have a chance of winning. Pro ranks go from 1 dan pro to 9 dan pro (abbreviated 'p' instead of 'd') with &quot;10 dan&quot; being a title that can be won in a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, the difference in strength between pros is not related to their rank, because new 1 dan pros received the most up-to-date training and already possess vast knowledge (just like someone coming fresh from university is very up to date on the current research). Formerly, it was said the difference between 3 or 4 pro ranks is about 1 stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are different ranking systems in different parts of the world that are not completely equal for various reasons. Online go serves got their own ranks as well. On Go servers, it is usually possible for amateurs to get assigned a rank of 9 dan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T09:51:24.417" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T09:51:24.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2011-11-15T12:38:03.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;While @mafutrct handled most of the essentials, I figured I would address some unanswered portions of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why do we start backwards?&lt;/strong&gt; Well, this one is a little bit tough, and has more to do with the Japanese culture of ranks more than anything; but if I were to venture an educated guess, 級 (kyu) ranks count down because they are measurements of strength: an ordering if you will. Consider the following example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players ordered by strength&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Person A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Person B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Person C&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, we can understand that Person A, listed first, is the strongest of the three. Kyu ranks are similar to an ordering like this. So...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why do we start to count upwards again?&lt;/strong&gt; Well, like @mafutcrt mentioned, once you pass the highest rank, and become &quot;dan&quot; you are more like a master (this is the exact same system used in Japanese martial arts -- dan ranks are usually translated as &quot;Nth degree black belt&quot; in English). The Japanese character for &quot;dan&quot; (段) also means &quot;stair&quot;, so each increase in rank can be thought of as one more step up the staircase of mastership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the basic differences between ranks used in different countries and different servers?&lt;/strong&gt; See this &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?RankWorldwideComparison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;worldwide comparison of ranks on Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So how is this all related to rating?&lt;/strong&gt; By rating, in contrast to rank, I assume you mean strength, such as is represented by scores in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elo_rating_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elo rating system&lt;/a&gt;, among others. The simple answer is that in many systems, such as most online Go servers, there is little (if any) difference, because you can go down in rank just as well as you can go up. In others, such as with ranks given by the Japanese Go Association, you can never go down. In these systems, rank and rating are somewhat disconnected, but there is still generally some level of correlation. Professional ranks are very different, and are discussed in the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5575/are-professional-ranks-representative-for-how-many-stones-of-handicap-players-ca&quot;&gt;Are professional ranks representative for how many stones of handicap players can give each other?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="rintaun" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:02:37.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5592" CreationDate="2011-12-05T05:17:33.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an excellent and detailed answer already, but I want to throw in some other thoughts. I attended a workshop with Guo Juan (5P) where someone asked about the wall+1 rule and she explained that it's a nice mnemonic that works in some common situations (2-space jump between single stones, 3-space jump from 2 stones), but isn't much of a good rule past that. The point of a wall (a real wall, not a small 2-stone wall) is to attack!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a big wall, you shouldn't try to make territory next to it, rather you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; invite an invasion by making a moyo that threatens to become a massive territory if not invaded. Then, when your opponent invades, you attack. Even if you can't kill, you should make profit in a chase and come out ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your question, you ask about &quot;increasing your influence/moyo without inviting an invasion.&quot; Without an invasion possibility, what you have is territory. Influence/moyo &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; invade-able, otherwise it would just be territory. What you really want to know (and  @mafutrct's answer addresses very well) is how far to extend to make an invasion to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?ExtensionFromAWall&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library page&lt;/a&gt; on this topic cites the wall+1 rule, but if you follow the link to the page about &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?FourSpaceExtension&quot;&gt;four-space extensions&lt;/a&gt; the biggest comment is about how rare they are, and no mention of a 3-stone wall is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T05:17:33.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1813" CreationDate="2011-12-05T05:34:06.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have used PhotoShop to make my own resource hexes, as well as new development cards.  We have never used all the things I have made, but if we did, it would be possible to have 15 players in a game.  I have a &quot;gold&quot; resource hex; a &quot;development card&quot; resource hex; a &quot;pie&quot; resource hex [(like Trivial Pursuit) (has all five normal resources plus a gold, for a total of 6)]; &quot;gold&quot; harbors (2 for 1, and 3 for 1); and even more!  I also have made, as stated, new development cards to speed up the game, and make it more interesting.  Currently there are 9 of them.  One of them is a &quot;lottery winner&quot; development card.  It allows you to pick up any 10 resource cards and 3 development cards.  Using all my variations, we have finished games in 20-25 minutes.  We have not used the original set-up for several years, as our family prefers to have things which make the game more interesting.  Guess you could say that we have outgrown the original version(s), due to an excessive amount of play.  Love this game!!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2097" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T05:34:06.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5663" CreationDate="2011-12-05T08:32:27.633" Score="4" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the Mechana Initiate worth buying (except at the end to get some easy points)? It's only 1 Rune or 1 Power, which seems weak compared to the other Initiates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T20:51:12.640" Title="When is Mechana Initiate worth buying?" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5458" CreationDate="2011-12-05T12:03:34.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're from northern Europe I really recommend the site www.svenskamagic.com. It's easy to create an auction and sell your cards, especially if they're of high value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said. Cards of low value are easiest sold in bulk. You'll probably earn both money and convenience that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T12:03:34.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5248" CreationDate="2011-12-05T12:20:22.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider you fetch for: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Academy%20Ruins&quot;&gt;Academy Ruins&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20from%20the%20Loam&quot;&gt;Life from the Loam&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland&quot;&gt;Wasteland&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crucible%20of%20Worlds&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever cards your opponent chooses you'll get all parts to your soft lock. This is just an example, I'm sure there are a lot better card combinations to fetch for. Keep in mind this is for the reasonable cost of 4 mana instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T22:00:43.490" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T22:00:43.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5608" CreationDate="2011-12-05T12:57:43.487" Score="8" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184732&quot;&gt;Magus of the Unseen&lt;/a&gt; and some other creature or artifact, and my opponent has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=89027&quot;&gt;Glare of Subdual&lt;/a&gt; and a tapped &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202548&quot;&gt;Yotian Soldier&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184732&quot;&gt;Magus of the Unseen&lt;/a&gt; (1U)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Creature — Human Wizard&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1/1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1U, T: Untap target artifact an opponent controls and gain control of it until end of turn. It gains haste until end of turn. When you lose control of the artifact, tap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the Magus to untap and steal the Soldier during my turn. During my cleanup step, the effect wears off and my opponent gets the Soldier back. &lt;strong&gt;Is there time for him to activate the Glare by tapping the Soldier, before the Soldier becomes tapped and before his next untap step?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation is that there is, because the tap is &lt;em&gt;triggered&lt;/em&gt; by the return of control. This means that players get priority before it resolves, during the cleanup step. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T13:57:06.370" Title="In Magic, when Magus of the Unseen returns an untapped artifact to its original controller, is there a delay before it becomes tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5607" CreationDate="2011-12-05T13:57:06.370" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your interpretation is correct. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/&quot;&gt;The Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;514. Cleanup Step&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.2. Second, the following actions happen simultaneously: all damage marked on permanents (including phased-out permanents) is removed and all &quot;until end of turn&quot; and &quot;this turn&quot; effects end. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the Cleanup Step, you lose control of the artifact. This doesn't use the stack so can't be responded to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.3. Normally, no player receives priority during the cleanup step, so no spells can be cast and no abilities can be activated. However, this rule is subject to the following exception:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the new controller of the artifact wouldn't be able to activate its ability. But, because there is a triggered ability waiting to be put on the stack (When you lose control of the artifact…)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.3a At this point, the game checks to see if any state-based actions would be performed and/or any triggered abilities are waiting to be put onto the stack (including those that trigger &quot;at the beginning of the next cleanup step&quot;). If so, those state-based actions are performed, then those triggered abilities are put on the stack, then the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities. Once the stack is empty and all players pass in succession, another cleanup step begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &quot;Tap it.&quot; is on the stack, and can be responded to. The change of control didn't use the stack and has already happened. Your opponent can use the glare when they have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit odd that if this triggered ability wasn't there, your controller wouldn't be able to tap it during your turn, but that's the way it works. Note that because of the Summoning Sickness rule, your opponent wouldn't be able to use the tap effect of any artifact you gained control of unless it had haste. But the Glare cares not for Summoning Sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T13:57:06.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5544" CreationDate="2011-12-05T15:18:37.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The san-ren-sei point in the middle of the lower part of the board, and a point around white's 3-3 point stone in the lower left hand corner are &quot;miai.&quot; That is if White takes one, black will take the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say white closes his corner in the lower left by taking the 5-4 point, as he did in the upper left. Black then takes the san-ren-sei point in the lower middle side, which is a perfect extension from his shimari in the lower right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If White takes the san-ren-sei point, Black has a perfect invasion point of White's moyo at the 4-4 point in the lower left, as shown in the diagram above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, Black gets the LAST &quot;big point,&quot; thereby retaining the advantage of the first move (even after komi is factored in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:18:37.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5533" CreationDate="2011-12-05T15:23:58.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to use thickness is this: When your opponent makes a move that approaches your thickness, you make a move on the FAR side of the opponent's stone from the thickness. Thereby sandwiching your opponent between the your thickness and your &quot;far side&quot; stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst thing you can do is to place a stone between your opponent's stone and your thickness. Then you end up &quot;overconcentrated.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent will erase your thickness, but suffer in doing so. Meanwhile, you reinforce your FAR SIDE stone(s). Thereby &quot;recreating&quot; your advantage in a different part of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:23:58.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-12-05T15:49:06.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The formula I use for the point differential for handicap stones is 2/3 (X**2) +12x-6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means 6 2/3 points for one stone, 21 points for two stones, 36 points for three stones, 53 points for four stones, 71 points for five stones, 90 points for six stones, 111 points for 7 stones, 133 points for eight stones, 156 for nine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each stone is worth more on an exponential basis, while handicaps are linear. A nine stone handicap worth 10-11 levels rather than nine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T15:49:06.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5565" CreationDate="2011-12-05T16:12:33.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a handicap game of six or seven stones, there are two distinct ways for white to play. This is defined by the fact that Black has san-ren-sei stones on the left and right sides of the board, but not at the top or bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;safe&quot; way for white to play is to make kakaris from the OPEN portions of the board on the lower and upper sides. That is a slow, &quot;patient&quot; way of playing for White to catch up to Black's handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more aggressive way of playing is to start with kakaris on the against the stones on the upper and lower right sides of the board between the corner and san-ren-sei stones, with the third move being a &quot;capping&quot; move against the san-rei-sei stone. This leads to a quicker win (or loss), depending on how well Black plays tactically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that Black is tactically only three or four stones, weaker than White (although six stones weaker overall), and can hold his own in the complications, given the extra stones. In which case the safer course is to kakari from the open sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T16:12:33.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2791" CreationDate="2011-12-05T16:46:52.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I see it (having played close to a hundred games), the way to win at T&amp;amp;T is to play all or most of your houses while getting as many bonus points as possible. Beginning players tend to focus on the carriages, but generally if you're playing against experienced players the game will end before you can get to the 7th carriage anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you get the bonus points is up to you, but I've found that (at least on the original map) the game tends to go to someone who ignores carriages and focuses on getting long routes. Personally I tend to start out (depending on the initial cards available) with a route of length at least 5, either all different colors or all grey. Usuall I try to be the first to get every color, but getting all the greys works too. Either way, my goal is to, as much as possible, place one post office for each card played and use my special actions to draw and play more cards; this way I'm maximizing my efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T16:46:52.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5615" CreationDate="2011-11-25T22:45:52.310" Score="4" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would find it hard to believe if someone tried to tell me that there was not such a website, and that people in China relied on gobase. Isn't there a Chinese-language resource for SGF files?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" OwnerDisplayName="magnetar" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T17:10:35.030" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T17:10:35.030" Title="What is the Chinese-language equivalent of gobase (main resource for SGF files)?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5614" CreationDate="2011-11-26T02:06:15.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TOM qipu&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://weiqi.sports.tom.com/php/listqipu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://weiqi.sports.tom.com/php/listqipu.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recent games, download SGF or view online with a java applet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Flygo&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flygo.net/jdqp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.flygo.net/jdqp.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is a little gold mine if you know how to parse the page, old Chinese games, recent games...etc (downloadable SGF)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;WeiqiOK&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weiqiok.com/asp/English.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.weiqiok.com/asp/English.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have an english version. The kifu search is at the bottom of the page. (they also have tsumego, fuseki, joseki...etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weiqiok.com/asp/ShowPlayers.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can find a list of the players in their database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sina&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://duiyi.sina.com.cn/gibo/new_gibo.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://duiyi.sina.com.cn/gibo/new_gibo.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this page you can find recent professional games and games played on sina's weiqi server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Eweiqi&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eweiqi.com/qipu_more.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.eweiqi.com/qipu_more.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Chinese portal for Tygem also has some Tygem + pro tournament kifu. (need to install an addon for IE to view)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2096" OwnerDisplayName="龚元程" LastActivityDate="2011-11-26T07:55:48.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5616" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-05T17:10:39.460" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T17:10:39.460" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T17:10:39.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5617" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-05T17:10:39.460" Score="0" Body="SGF, the Smart Game Format, is a file format used to store game records of board games." OwnerUserId="1106" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2011-12-05T17:10:39.460" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T17:10:39.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5618" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-19T10:53:46.533" Score="11" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently took A. Dinershtein's &lt;a href=&quot;http://style.baduk.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go style test&lt;/a&gt;. It was useful to me, as the test is aimed at finding professional players who might think the way you do, for study purposes. It has definitely worked for me. But what should I bear in mind while studying professional games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2100" OwnerDisplayName="magnetar" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T22:51:14.960" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T03:41:28.140" Title="Strategy for studying professional games?" Tags="|go|professional|study|kifu|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-11-19T14:10:09.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on your strength.  I find that memorizing them is useful for me.  I've also heard a lot of people suggest that you need to play them out on a real board.  It helps teach your fingers where the pro moves are :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not a dan-level player, you probably shouldn't focus too much on fighting sequences - you won't be able to understand all of the variations the players are considering.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a really good idea to look at each sequence or exchange in the game and try to tell what each player got out of it.  From an amateur perspective almost everything that happens in a pro game is an even trade, so you should look for sequences that don't seem even to you and try to figure out why they actually are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" OwnerDisplayName="TimK" LastActivityDate="2011-11-19T14:10:09.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-11-21T17:52:13.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replay through a game twice.  Each time focus on just 1 side.  Memorizing games can help, but  it's even better to memorize games that cover variations and/or provide commentary.  Don't try  and understand every single move though, that is just too daunting even with provided in-depth commentary.  Instead, try and gain the overall idea and feel the flow behind their play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="zawazawa" LastActivityDate="2011-11-21T17:52:13.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-10T10:58:44.803" Score="5" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3135/what-is-the-difference-between-thickness-and-heavy-stones&quot;&gt;What is the difference between thickness and heavy stones?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many beginners and even advanced players have difficulties telling apart thick from heavy or over-concentrated groups. How are these terms defined, and how can I quickly decide if a result in a certain position is good or bad for me based on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is influence the same as thickness, or is there a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:03:37.497" Title="What is the difference between thickness and heavy or over-concentrated stones?" Tags="|go|thickness|influence|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-02-09T15:09:18.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3135" CreationDate="2011-11-11T15:14:29.480" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The terms thickness and influence are precisely defined and very easy to differentiate once you got the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Influence simply refers to a group facing the center of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a group create influence and at the same time is already alive or can make eyes very easily is called thick. Note that a living group that is facing the edge of the board is not thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Distinguishing between thickness and heaviness or overconcentration is more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heaviness refers to a group of many stones yet few eyespace. Typically, it is created by trying to save too many stones, or by playing bad shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overconcentration is a different phenomenon and refers to cramped positions, typically hand in hand with a violation of the wall+1 rule. Overconcentrated positions tend to be extremely thick, far past the peak of efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" OwnerDisplayName="mafutrct" LastActivityDate="2011-11-11T15:14:29.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-11-12T10:51:49.910" Score="22" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deep Blue was a chess-playing computer developed by IBM. On May 11, 1997, the machine won a six-game match by two wins to one with three draws against world champion Garry Kasparov. Kasparov accused IBM of cheating and demanded a rematch, but IBM refused and dismantled Deep Blue. Kasparov had beaten a previous version of Deep Blue in 1996.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent program that challenged and won the top Go masters (on the standard sized board)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific research project like this in progress?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Forkrul Assail" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:12:33.543" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T10:22:43.027" Title="Is there an equivalent of Deep Blue in the Go world?" Tags="|go|history|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2011-11-12T19:34:32.483" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an 19x19 board there is no computer that evens top level players (9p) as of November 2011. It seems that the strongest programs for the moment use Monte Carlo methods and from time to time matches with pro's are organised, though usually with handicap. The level reached by programs for the last couple of years seems to indicate that they need at least 7 stones handicap against a 9p player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amongst computers you can get an idea which programs are strongest by &lt;a href=&quot;http://computer-go.info/events/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;checking this page&lt;/a&gt; however that doesn't necessarily tell you very much about the strength vs human players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has a quite up to date recent &lt;a href=&quot;https://secure.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/wiki/Computer_Go#Recent_results&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;results section&lt;/a&gt; on computer vs human player go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoPlayingPrograms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;senseis library&lt;/a&gt; there is a list of programs and if you check the pages for individual programs you find a summary of their most important matches against both humans and other bots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2006" LastActivityDate="2011-11-14T00:09:02.690" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2011-11-13T11:04:13.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Go-playing program to date has been known to match the strength of professional players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Computer Go&lt;/a&gt; offers an in-depth discussion about the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that article, as of 2011, &quot;the best Go programs running on stock hardware are ranked as 2 dan - 5 dan.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the problems is the large number of possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_Go#Recent_results&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;aforementioned Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, in 2008, a program called &quot;MoGo&quot; won a game against a professional on a 9x9 board, but the same program lost to the same professional on a 19x19 board, despite receiving 9 handicap stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="hasen j" LastActivityDate="2011-11-13T11:04:13.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2011-12-05T18:44:32.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, no. I barely know how to play go, but I can speak to the AI side of things a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deep Blue basically uses a big ol' search tree to look many, many moves into the future, like it's testing out numerous parallel games. If a series of moves doesn't terminate in a win or loss, a unit called the &quot;static evaluator&quot; applies a bunch of heuristics to figure out who gains an advantage from the board state. These values then percolate up the tree and are used to decide which current move is most likely to win some advantage for the AI player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two main limiting factors prohibiting a Deep-Blue-like approach to an AI for go: game complexity and hardware limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the inherent complexity of the game. For instance, there's &quot;branching factor&quot;. Try to visualize a go game in progress and a chess game in progress, like you've just sat down in front of a half-played board and are trying to make your next move. Because the go board is larger you can place a stone anywhere, there are more possible moves you could make on any given turn. The set of an opponent's possible plays in response to that move is also greater, and so on and so on. This means the tree of all possible game states grows much more quickly, making it harder to look many, many moves into the future. (You can work around this somewhat with &quot;pruning&quot; techniques: basically write off any branches that seem like they're quickly heading off into a losing position; there's no evaluative shortcut that works as well as counting material in chess, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is actually the rules for AI players. If I recall correctly, the major tournament organizations require AI software to run on off-the-shelf consumer hardware. Deep Blue had a supercomputer's worth of memory and processing power, including custom-built chips for performing static evaluation in hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in essence, a go AI in the style of Deep Blue, using deep search supported by massive processing power, is infeasible. However, a go AI in the style of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TD-Gammon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TD-Gammon&lt;/a&gt; (which essentially operates based on learned heuristics) may be. The best information I can really offer on the current state of the field is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia link&lt;/a&gt;, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T18:44:32.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5641" CreationDate="2011-12-05T19:46:19.140" Score="12" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every now and again when I approach a corner, opponent plays 1-space pincer and I jump out, my opponent immediately peeps. This seems like &lt;em&gt;aji keshi&lt;/em&gt; and bad shape, but I've been stumped as to how to really take advantage of it. Normally what I would get out of this joseki is a nice influential wall facing the center, but now it seems I must sacrifice &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; corner aji to get the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Should W connect?&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . 1 . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If W connects (below), she is free to invade the corner in the future and can connect underneath to 4 if necessary, so is chasing B's group the way to proceed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 W does have options...&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . 4 . X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . 1 2 . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . 5 . . . . 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the normal joseki were played out before black peeped (again, below) W would probably be happy to solidify her wall and then jump in the corner. The better way for B to cut would be 1 at 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 A poor way for black to cut&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . X . X X X . O . . 4 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . O O O X 1 3 . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . O . . . . O 2 O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But without the wall already in place, W has difficulty mimicking this result. So what should W do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T18:50:06.343" Title="What is the best way to respond to this pincer joseki deviation?" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5638" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:11:27.537" Score="17" ViewCount="118771" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working on putting together a Mill deck and it occurred to me that there are likely much faster Milling decks out there. So, what is the fastest Milling win condition that can be achieved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck limitations: Standard 4-card limit, and all cards except those from the Un-sets (Unglued and Unhinged) are legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goal: Fastest win by Milling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other considerations: You have perfect luck (you always draw the cards you need), your opponent won't be doing anything to disrupt you, your opponent has a 60-card deck that is susseptible to milling (ie. doesn't have any of the &quot;shuffle your graveyard into your library&quot; cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if this sort of question isn't appropriate for this site, please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T19:21:27.780" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:29:22.993" Title="What is the fastest MTG Mill deck that can be made?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-05-13T10:50:30.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:53:51.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the best I can find (based around the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHalimar%20Excavator%5d&quot;&gt;Halimar Excavator&lt;/a&gt; Ally):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMothdust%20Changeling%5d&quot;&gt;Mothdust Changeling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running mill total: 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Halimar Excavator (mill 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running mill total: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Halimar Excavator (mill 6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mothdust Changeling (mill 8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running mill total: 16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Halimar Excavator (mill 15)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Halimar Excavator (mill 24)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running mill total: 55 (win)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T16:28:00.130" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:28:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-05T20:54:26.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it cheating to use three-turn infinite mana combo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Opening hand:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9AqZf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Paradise Mantle&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4e90.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Forest&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kJGz3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Elvish Pioneer&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnpdO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Island&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MHqm8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pili-Pala&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W3Kdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Heartstone&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;+ One of these:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jNoU6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blue Sun's Zenith&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/py2Ly.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Psychic Drain&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/96n64.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Braingeyser&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/esCaM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Stroke of Genius&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn 1: Play Forest, Paradise Mantle, Elvish Pioneer, Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn 2: Draw another land, Play land, Pili-Pala, Equip Paradise Mantle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn 3: Draw something. Play Heartstone, tap Pili-Pala for [U], Pay [U] to Untap it for [U], repeat (target player's library size + 4) times, (make sure to add a black mana in the cycle if you use Psychic Drain.) Play Psychic Drain, Blue Sun's Zenith, Braingeyser, Stroke of Genius, or whatever other spell that does the trick. Boom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-05T20:59:54.833" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-05T21:01:24.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can play any Vintage-legal card and have perfect control over your draws, you can always execute a turn-1 storm combo win off of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=47599&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brain Freeze&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90% of the deck would be the same cards that make up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/12009_The_Fastest_Deck_Ever_By_Far_Meandeck_Tendrils_Revisited.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vintage Tendrils combo decks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Without&lt;/em&gt; the &quot;perfect draw&quot; assumption, storm combo's probably the strongest first-turn kill deck just because most of the cards are nearly interchangeable. You can get unlucky with too much &quot;draw a card&quot; and not enough &quot;make some mana&quot; or vice versa, but it's more consistent than trying to assemble a classic multi-part combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T06:58:20.753" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T06:58:20.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-06T00:26:49.460" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;To cite a famous example, this is actually how the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTolarian%20Academy%5d&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt; decks of Urza-block standard and extended worked. Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/bb45&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sample decklist&lt;/a&gt;, played by Tommi Hovi to win PT Rome (the first major tournament at which this sort of deck was legal):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4636&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ancient Tomb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=8883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tundra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Volcanic Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4563&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abeyance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4707&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intuition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202538&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind over Matter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=26658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Sink&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scroll Rack&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5677&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stroke of Genius&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=10423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5547&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=7168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This deck can easily put together a first-turn win, and all it needs is an above-average number of Lotus Petals and Mox Diamonds, which while unlikely, did happen often enough to get about a quarter of this deck banned. Here's a (hopefully somewhat realistic) example turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Opening hand:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=8883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;2x &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5547&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tundra&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=7168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/strong&gt; #1 and &lt;strong&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/strong&gt; #2&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/strong&gt;, discarding Tundra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mox Diamond to play &lt;strong&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tap Tolarian Academy to play &lt;strong&gt;Windfall&lt;/strong&gt;. ({U} floating) Draw 7 cards:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=26658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Sink&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202538&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4707&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intuition&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5547&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Volcanic Island&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5677&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stroke of Genius&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/strong&gt; #3 ({U} floating)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mana Vault for 3 colorless mana ({C}{C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Voltaic Key to untap Mana Vault ({C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mana Vault again for 3 more colorless mana ({C}{C}{C}{C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/strong&gt; #2 ({C}{C}{C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Voltaic Key #2 to untap Mana Vault ({C}{C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mana Vault again for 3 more colorless mana ({C}{C}{C}{C}{C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice Lotus Petal #1 to play &lt;strong&gt;Stroke of Genius&lt;/strong&gt; (X=4). Draw 4 cards:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=7168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202538&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scroll Rack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/strong&gt; #2, discarding Volcanic Island&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mox Diamond #2 to play &lt;strong&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/strong&gt; #2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tap Mana Vault #2 and sacrifice Lotus Petal #2 to play &lt;strong&gt;Windfall&lt;/strong&gt;. (C floating) Draw 7 cards:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4563&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abeyance&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind over Matter&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=10423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202538&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5547&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/strong&gt; #3&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/strong&gt; #3, discarding City of Brass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mana Vault #3 to play &lt;strong&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/strong&gt; #3 ({C}{C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Voltaic Key #3 to untap Mana Vault #3 ({C} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Mox Diamond #3 and Mana Vault #3, and sacrifice Lotus Petal #3, to play &lt;strong&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/strong&gt;. Draw 7 cards:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4563&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abeyance&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4707&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intuition&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202424&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tundra&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=10423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=7168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=8883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220963&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Untap Tolarian Academy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Tolarian Academy to play &lt;strong&gt;Intuition&lt;/strong&gt;. ({U}{U}{U}{U}{U}{U} floating) Search for Mind Over Matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Mind Over Matter&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Mind Over Matter, discarding City of Brass, to untap Tolarian Academy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Tolarian Academy for 9 blue mana. ({U}{U}{U}{U}{U}{U}{U}{U}{U} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the last two steps four more times, discarding Abeyance, Tundra, Tolarian Academy, and Time Spiral. (45x{U} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Windfall&lt;/strong&gt;. (42x{U} floating) Draw 7 cards:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4636&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ancient Tomb&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=26658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Sink&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scroll Rack&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5677&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stroke of Genius&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;2x &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Volcanic Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 26-27 six times, discarding everything but Stroke of Genius (96x{U} floating)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Stroke of Genius&lt;/strong&gt; (X=93) on your opponent, making him/her draw 93 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Mana symbols should render as images using &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1245/board-games-se-mana-symbols-a-userscript-for-auto-conversion-of-mana-symbols-to&quot;&gt;this userscript&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T16:27:50.420" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:27:50.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-06T10:49:10.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No infinite combos, (mostly) red deck, almost 600 cards milled on first turn. But I took you at your word and allowed myself 4 copies of Power 5 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck List:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sorcery: Untap all creatures that attacked this turn. After this main phase, there is an additional combat phase followed by an additional main phase.&quot;&gt;Relentless Assault&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=80250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Instant — Arcane, You may put a creature card from your hand onto the battlefield. That creature gains haste. Sacrifice that creature at the beginning of the next end step.&quot;&gt;Through The Breach&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Enrage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202558&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheel of Fortune&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247390&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Legendary Creature — Vampire, 5/5, Flying If Szadek, Lord of Secrets would deal combat  damage to a player, instead put that many +1/+1 counters on Szadek and that player puts that many cards from the top of his or her library into his or her graveyard.&quot;&gt;Szadek, Lord of Secrets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlack%20Lotus%5d&quot;&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLotus%20Petal%5d&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMox%20Ruby%5d&quot;&gt;Mox Ruby&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMox%20Diamond%5d&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=8883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Mountain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening hand: 3 Mox Ruby, 1 Mox Diamond (discard Mountain), Black Lotus, Wheel of Fortune. Play all, tapping 3 Moxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill count: 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw 7: Mox Ruby, 2 Mox Diamond (discard 2 Mountains), Black Lotus, Wheel of Fortune, play all, tapping 3 Moxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill count: 14&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw 7: 1 Mox Diamond (discard Mountain), 2 x Black Lotus, 2 x Lotus Petal, Wheel of Fortune, play all tap last 2 Moxes and sac 1 Lotus Petal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill count: 21&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw 7: 3x Lotus Petal, Tolarian Academy, tap out, Through the Breach -&gt; Szadek, Wheel of Fortune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill count: 28, 15U, 15R floating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw 7: Enrage -&gt; Szadek +13/+0 = 18/5. Attack!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mill count: 46, 2U 14R floating, Szadek 36/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relentless Assault (1) Attack! MC 82, Szadek 72/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relentless Assault (2) Attack! MC 154, Szadek 144/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relentlass Assault (3) Attack! MC 298, Szadek 288/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relentless Assault (4) Attack! MC 586, Szadek 576/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T16:27:57.777" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:27:57.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5809" CreationDate="2011-12-06T11:27:14.860" Score="3" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;In First Scenario 1C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario objectives :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Win&lt;/strong&gt; : Kill 2 investigators&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lose&lt;/strong&gt; : Investigators escape from Foyer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my game session investigators revealed objective very quickly, and most of them managed to escape mansion before event was triggered and door's become locked with rune puzzle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this normal situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1979" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T17:13:40.427" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T15:26:15.247" Title="Is an early escape normal in encounter 1C?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-06T12:51:15.030" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Activating the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4610&quot;&gt;Grindstone&lt;/a&gt; when you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Handlers/Image.ashx?multiverseid=146022&amp;amp;type=card&quot;&gt;Painter's Servant&lt;/a&gt; in play will mill an opponent's entire library in a single shot. The scarecrow turns all cards that aren't in play a single shared color; the Grindstone mills two cards from your opponent — and if those cards share at least one color, it recurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T12:59:13.157" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T12:59:13.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5529" CreationDate="2011-12-06T14:20:37.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White is playing good moves that largely cancel Black's starpoint stones. Because it is closer to the edge than Black's stones, White's move 2 undercuts the zone that Black is trying to stake out with move 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, White's move 4 is an appropriate response to Black's star point move at 1. This prevents Black from expanding along the bottom from his san-ren-sei on the right. If he pincers White's stone (probably his best move), White makes a one point jump into the center that largely nullifies the influence of Black's two star point stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White could have taken the star point at the bottom, but White 4 is more aggressive. In general, star point stones are big moves at this stage of the game. But White had equally big moves with his descent to the edge (at 2), and his kakari at 4. As such, he doesn't &quot;mind&quot; having Black take the star points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T14:20:37.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5563" CreationDate="2011-12-06T15:56:29.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My method of teaching is to point out the opponent's worst mistake, usually made more than once in the game. If s/he can correct it, that may alone represent an improvement of a rank or two. I might go over a small part of the game, but wouldn't go over a whole game (even if I could). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most learners would benefit more from having one (or two) mistakes pointed out to them than from a full game review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T21:00:05.163" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T21:00:05.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2011-12-06T16:58:03.680" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205013&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184550&quot;&gt;Helm of Obedience&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221510&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Swamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 1:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Start with Leyline of the Void on the battlefield. Play a Swamp, then a Dark Ritual. Use one black mana to play another Dark Ritual. You will now have BBBBB in your pool. Play the Helm of Obedience and activate it for 1 mana. Your opponent's entire deck will be milled out because none of the cards ever goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had someone use this against me in MTGO once and it took me a minute to work out how it had happened. Takes some serious luck to get this going on Turn 1, but if you can pull it off, it's definitely fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T16:58:03.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-12-06T17:06:53.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most pro games are fairly even until a &quot;turning point.&quot; This is when one player makes a mistake, as related by the author of the game commentary, usually a pro. Sometimes the commentator is one of the players, who says, &quot;I made move X that lost the game, or &quot;My opponent's move Y lost him the game.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the thing to do is to study the game up to the turning point, to see why it was even till then, and then after the turning point, to see why the winner had a clear advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games are closely matched to the end, with White finally winning by less than the komi, or alternately, Black beating komi by say, one and a half points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A model book in this regard is Kato's &quot;Attack and Kill,&quot; about his winning streak of some 20-odd games, in which he points out his opponent's &quot;losing moves.&quot; He is also self-critical, pointing out places where he made move X, which should have lost, but that the opponent's move Y was an even worse mistake, that resulted in a Kato victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T17:06:53.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2011-12-06T17:59:08.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question.  White usually jumps into the corner in this joseki; if he jumps out he is ready to fight if necessary.  When Black peeps he is giving you a wall that you can use to counterattack his pincer stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eidogo&lt;/a&gt; recommends W7, which denies Black a base on the side while being harder to press down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ +-------------------+&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...........2.1.....|&#xA;$$ |...,....7,..45.X...|&#xA;$$ |...........a.3.....|&#xA;$$ |...........8....6..|&#xA;$$ |.............9.....|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...,.....,.....,...|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black jumping out to B8 leaves a weak point at &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt;.  Note that the corner can still be invaded and that White might get to block off the right side.  How this develops will depend on the rest of the board, I think, but it doesn't seem bad for White.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastEditorUserId="1395" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T18:06:38.940" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T18:06:38.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2011-12-06T19:11:03.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;White's connection and pincer sequence in another answer works well only if White has a stone (or stones) around the star point D16 in the upper left corner. Then, the 7th stone on J16 is both a pincer and an extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Good for W&#xA;$$ +-------------------+&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...........2.1.....|&#xA;$$ |...O....7,..45.X...|&#xA;$$ |...........a.3.....|&#xA;$$ |...........8....6..|&#xA;$$ |.............9.....|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...,.....,.....,...|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Bad for W&#xA;$$ +-------------------+&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |......0....2.1.....|&#xA;$$ |...X....7,..45.X...|&#xA;$$ |...........a.3.....|&#xA;$$ |...........8....6..|&#xA;$$ |.............9.....|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...,.....,.....,...|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, White should invade the upper right corner at the 3-3 point, r17 with move 5. If Black blocks at r 16, White will connect this stone to the kakari stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely, Black will block at Q17. This captures the kakari stone on O17, but Black's stones are overconcentrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 B is overconcentrated. W is free to play at A or tenuki.&#xA;$$ +-------------------+&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |..............657..|&#xA;$$ |...........X.O821..|&#xA;$$ |...X.....,..X..X3..|&#xA;$$ |.............O.4...|&#xA;$$ |................9..|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ |...,.....,.....,...|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the White stone on O15 remains &quot;loose,&quot; and in a position to cancel Black's outside influence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T12:40:33.160" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T12:40:33.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5643" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-06T20:57:29.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?shimari&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's Library: Shimari&quot;&gt;Corner enclosures&lt;/a&gt; are common formations in go, often played in the opening, typically used to secure a territorial advantage, and to prevent the opponent from making an &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?kakari&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's Library: Kakari&quot;&gt;approach&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wc A common corner enclosure&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Common terminology relating to corner enclosures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common two-stone enclosures start with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Komoku&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's Library: Komoku&quot;&gt;4-3 stone&lt;/a&gt;.  An enclosure is typically said to be &lt;em&gt;low&lt;/em&gt; if the enclosing move is made along the 3rd line and &lt;em&gt;high&lt;/em&gt; if the enclosing move is on the 4th line.  Similarly, an enclosure made with the small knight's move is said to be &lt;em&gt;small&lt;/em&gt;, and the large knights move is said to be &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wc Corner enclosure options&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . b a . . |&#xA;$$ . . . d c . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;small-low&quot; enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;small-high&quot; enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;large-low&quot; enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;large-high&quot; enclosure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some enclosures may have more than two stones: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wc An example of a three stone enclosure&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions related to corner enclosures include&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to invade this corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many points does this enclosure secure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I respond to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?probe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's Library: Probe&quot;&gt;probe&lt;/a&gt; against this corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to enclose this corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2092" LastEditorUserId="2092" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T21:00:54.320" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T21:00:54.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5644" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-06T20:57:29.457" Score="0" Body="A formation of two or more go stones used to surround territory in a corner of the board.  Often used interchangeably with the Japanese word &quot;shimari&quot;" OwnerUserId="2092" LastEditorUserId="2092" LastEditDate="2011-12-06T21:00:33.837" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T21:00:33.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-06T21:50:37.337" Score="16" ViewCount="70790" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, I have a rare binder with all of my rares, and the rest of my cards are broken into several boxes by color, gold/multi color, and land.  The problem with this methodology is that if I have a specific card in mind that's a common, I have to search through the entire box until I find it.  Is there a better way to manage by cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T14:19:38.897" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:10:25.357" Title="What is an efficient way to organize my magic collection?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|storage|" AnswerCount="14" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-06T22:23:48.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have my collection primarily sorted by set. I like this method because it optimizes for the &quot;find a given card&quot; case. If I want a Platinum Angel, for instance, I only need to search my cards from Mirrodin, M10, M11, and M12. The worst case would be searching for something like a Llanowar Elf, while the best case would be searching for, say, Emrakul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within a given set, I may divide by rarity, color, and type. But sorting by set is best balance of findability and re-sortability that I have come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastActivityDate="2011-12-06T22:23:48.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-07T08:14:22.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the easiest way to sort and find cards is by Block-&gt;Serie-&gt;Color, and if you're hardcore, in alphabetical order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This setup is good both for searching for a specific card you know about, vague searches like &quot;blue cantrip&quot; and for casual browsing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T08:38:27.403" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T08:38:27.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-07T13:46:45.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also use the Block-&gt;Set-&gt;Color-&gt;Alphabetical organization method.  I can usually lay my hands on a card I want in a couple of minutes once I know that I want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't try to optimize for &quot;find a good cheap red creature&quot;, I can use Gatherer for that sort of searching and then go find it in my collection (since I also have the containing sets information on the Gatherer page).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T13:46:45.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2011-12-07T14:15:07.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The opening you use is different if you are referring to playing a 4-player game, or a 2-player game (not duo, but the 2-player version on the full board).  I don't have much to say about the 4-player game, but if you're playing the classic-2 player version (C2), then this Barasona opening is actually very weak.  In a 2-player game, you should try to get both of your colours to the middle of the board as quickly as possible, and have them &quot;connect&quot; with each other, so they can cross over and share space with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the 4-player (which I admit I am not very experienced with) the Barasona opening actually seems really weak.  While you create a difficult situation for your opponents in your one corner, you don't expand much.  Generally expansion is better than defense.  Try starting with L, Z, W (all moving to the middle of the board as much as possible, never leaving a &quot;v3 hole&quot; in your pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2117" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T14:15:07.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-07T14:25:09.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I first pull out the valuable cards to go into my binder. Then I organize the rest by Block -&gt; Set -&gt; Alphabetical. In addition to this, I use a collection manager of some sort (currently &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essentialmagic.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Essential Magic&lt;/a&gt;, but there are plenty of options) so I don't have to go digging through the actual cards when I work on deck building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T14:25:09.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-07T15:21:12.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've stopped playing, but I used Color -&gt; Creature/Non-Creature -&gt; Alphabetical, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sorting by expansion.  When I was playing all cards were equally available for deck-building; if the newer blocks/sets don't work that way then you'd want to sort by that first.  I found the creature/non-creature split to help manage the volume while planning and assembling decks.  (I don't know if this is typical -- I was never an excellent player -- but I tended to think about deck-building as having those two, related, sub-tasks.  So I'd choose creatures, choose spells that complement that, perhaps adjust creatures, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T15:21:12.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-07T16:12:39.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m thinking of breaking up my commons and uncommons into 10 boxes, as follows (all the rares being in binders):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 1&lt;/strong&gt;- Core sets: grouped by creature/non-creature/non-basic land,&#xA;ordered alphabetically.  Anything that I find that’s been printed in&#xA;a core set would go in here (whether that print is from a core set)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 2&lt;/strong&gt; – Latest block: grouped by creature/non-creature/non-basic&#xA;land, ordered alphabetically.  At this particular time this would be&#xA;all my Innistrad cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 3&lt;/strong&gt; – Second latest block: grouped by&#xA;creature/non-creature/non-basic land, ordered alphabetically.  At&#xA;this particular time this would be the Scars of Mirrodin block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 4&lt;/strong&gt; – White cards: grouped by creature/non-creature, ordered&#xA;alphabetically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 5&lt;/strong&gt; – Blue cards: grouped by creature/non-creature, ordered&#xA;alphabetically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 6&lt;/strong&gt; – Black cards: grouped by creature/non-creature, ordered&#xA;alphabetically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 7&lt;/strong&gt; – Red cards: grouped by creature/non-creature, ordered&#xA;alphabetically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 8&lt;/strong&gt; – Green cards: grouped by creature/non-creature, ordered&#xA;alphabetically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 9&lt;/strong&gt; – Artifacts, Multi-color, colorless, non-basic land: grouped by&#xA;creature/non-creature, ordered alphabetically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Box 10&lt;/strong&gt; – Basic lands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this setup, I’ll always have my standard cards easy to find (hence grouping the core sets).  Once a block cycles out of standard it’ll get distributed into boxes 4-9 (unless a card is put into the core set, then it goes into box 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most strenuous part of this would be picking out anything in a core set, but that doesn’t have to all happen at the same time, they can migrate into the core set box over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to try this and I'll update to let everyone know how this turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T16:12:39.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-12-07T17:18:59.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terrace_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Terrace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only a handful of very simple rules, yet in either the two- or four-player variants, it can take hours of skull sweat to play. Or you can be done in under an hour - it's truly up to the players how much time and energy they want to expend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally created in the 1950s, it was sold and simplified in the 1980s and became a prominent prop on &lt;em&gt;Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T17:18:59.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5827" CreationDate="2011-12-07T20:26:16.377" Score="15" ViewCount="2901" Body="&lt;p&gt;In MTG, there are several ways to win that don't involve damaging your opponent. The most prominent is milling (running an opponent out of cards to draw), but there are also special cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=185743&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=29942&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Battle of Wits&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136048&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barren Glory&lt;/a&gt; that introduce unique victory conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand why these decks can be &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt;: it's a novel experience to build and play a deck with an entirely different goal, and figuring out how to achieve some of those goals is a pleasing deckbuilding puzzle. What I'd like to know is something else entirely: when is prioritizing an alternate win condition actually &lt;strong&gt;strategically advantageous&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, it seems like, short of all-in-one-go combo, pursuing these goals involves actively sacrificing tempo and card advantage. Take mill cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83597&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glimpse the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt;, for example: the card mills a significant chunk of an opponent's deck, but it doesn't actually influence the board state in any way; in the vast majority of cases, making your opponent put ten cards from her library into her graveyard has no affect on her board presence or ability to make subsequent plays (in some instances, it actually helps her, too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What factors affect the viability of a deck built around an alternate win condition?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it ever feasible (like, you-could-take-this-deck-to-a-tournament feasible) to build around an alternate wincon in something that's not just a pure combo deck?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How can one offset or avoid the natural card and tempo disadvantage baked into most of these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When is it practical to include an alternate wincon as &quot;Plan B&quot; (or C, or D, &amp;amp;c.) in a deck with a damage-based Plan A?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T08:19:47.987" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T08:19:47.987" Title="What's the strategic advantage of building around alternate win conditions?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5658" CreationDate="2011-12-07T21:16:19.027" Score="9" ViewCount="17869" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I have some creatures attack the planeswalker and other creatures attack the player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2119" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:32:29.587" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T11:32:29.587" Title="Can I attack both the player and a planeswalker the same turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5657" CreationDate="2011-12-07T21:26:55.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, after you choose which creatures are attacking, you may choose whether they are attacking the defending player or a planeswalker that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110930.txt&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1. First, the active player declares attackers. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. To declare attackers, the active player&#xA;  follows the steps below, in order. If at any point during the&#xA;  declaration of attackers, the active player is unable to comply with&#xA;  any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game&#xA;  returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &quot;Handling&#xA;  Illegal Actions&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1a The active player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will attack. The chosen creatures must be untapped,&#xA;  and each one must either have haste or have been controlled by the&#xA;  active player continuously since the turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1b If the defending player controls any planeswalkers, or the game allows the active player to attack multiple other players, the active&#xA;  player announces which player or planeswalker each of the chosen&#xA;  creatures is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T21:26:55.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5659" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-07T22:52:12.743" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T22:52:12.743" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T22:52:12.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5660" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-07T22:52:12.743" Score="0" Body="A Kifu is a Go game record. It is usually written by putting the ordered moves on a sheet of paper with a grid of 19x19 lines." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-07T23:12:31.627" LastActivityDate="2011-12-07T23:12:31.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5662" CreationDate="2011-12-07T23:17:43.293" Score="3" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5096/1749&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, especially @RobRenaud's comment on @BlairHippo's answer pointing to an inconclusive argument on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6879886#6879886&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;. My question is two-part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(a) In a general 4-player game, is Saboteur a better card than in a&#xA;general 2-player game?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(b) Extreme case: in a 4-player game where all three other players&#xA;think Saboteur is amazing---will buy it and play it whenever&#xA;possible---what is your best general strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take as given that Saboteur is a terrible card in most 2-player games (based on Isotropic data and the answers to the previously linked question; please direct disagreements with this assumption to that question). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will actively &lt;strong&gt;downvote&lt;/strong&gt; answers citing &lt;strong&gt;anecdotal evidence&lt;/strong&gt;. @RobRenaud's comment in the BGG link is a good example of the type of answer I'm hoping for; I hope he submits it as an answer (perhaps fleshed out a little more) relatively soon, otherwise I hope someone else does. I'm also interested in well-reasoned arguments that agree or disagree with that conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And please don't make your answer too dependent on other cards in the kingdom set. Of course Lighthouse or Moat (or many others) could provide specific counters, but keep your answer general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T01:57:05.813" Title="Is Saboteur better in a 4-player game than a 2-player game?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5661" CreationDate="2011-12-08T01:57:05.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saboteur is undoubtedly more dangerous in a 4-player game, but that does not necessarily mean better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4-player games can end on piles more frequently than 2-player games because you only have 3 Victory cards per person (rather than 4 in 2/3-player) and 2.5 cards/Kingdom pile/person (vs. 5 in 2-player and 3.33 in 3-player). Saboteur can result in up to 3 extra cards leaving the Supply per play, which makes the piles endgame condition much more likely. If everyone plays a Saboteur one turn and everyone gains a $2 card as a replacement, you've almost exhausted 3 piles worth of cards right there—in a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the extreme case of all the players going for Sab, you are likely to be hit at least once a turn, and more likely two or even three times. That's the equivalent of facing a King's Court-ed Saboteur in 2-player: you're losing 3 high-value cards a turn, versus only being able to get one your turn. The general 2-player advice against Saboteur is to ignore it because Sab gives no benefit to the person playing it, and so you can build your deck up faster than your opponent can trash it down, and your opponent loses the opportunity to build his or her own deck by playing Sab. The ability to outrace Sab is lost when you're getting hit multiple times a turn, which means that the game is likely to stall at the $3/$4 card level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T01:57:05.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5604" CreationDate="2011-12-08T07:48:42.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key thing with the Initiate is the flexibility.  While often weaker than other choices, sometimes that's all you have available.  I've seen some games where only the Mechana Initate player was able to afford some of the power cards due to that flexibility.   It's true that he will increase the size of the deck, so if you're going for a power-combo deck, then he's likely not a good choice.  However, if your deck building is based more on value-per turn opportunities (score rushing), you can often win before combo decks get going.  This initiate will be key that that kind of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T07:48:42.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5664" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-08T10:29:45.230" Score="5" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skinshifter&quot;&gt;Skinshifter&lt;/a&gt;s in play, can I use the ability of one to affect the other?  For instance, if one of my Skinshifters has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ice%20Cage&quot;&gt;Ice Cage&lt;/a&gt; on it, can I use the other Skinshifter's ability to morph the &amp;quot;caged&amp;quot; one, thereby breaking the Ice Cage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2121" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T22:23:54.543" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T22:23:54.543" Title="Can two Skinshifters affect each other?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-07T17:36:39.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5664" CreationDate="2011-12-08T11:08:52.363" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can't.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245283&quot;&gt;Ice Cage&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=skinshifter&quot;&gt;Skinshifter&lt;/a&gt; with another Skinshifter's ability won't work for 2 reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt; and most straightforward, the Skinshifter's ability does not require a target, and Ice Cage requires the enchanted creature to be &lt;em&gt;targeted&lt;/em&gt; by a spell or ability for it to break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;, you can use Skinshifter's ability only to change itself, not another Skinshifter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card says &quot;Something happens to &lt;em&gt;CARD NAME&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, then this always references the card this text is printed on, unless explicitly stated otherwise. If a card references another card by name, the syntax is always something like &quot;A card/creature named &lt;em&gt;XY&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, for example like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129536&quot;&gt;Llanowar Sentinel&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175141&quot;&gt;Angel's Herald&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for that is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110930.txt&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it's on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T11:39:32.440" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T11:39:32.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-12-08T12:32:20.943" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you play a common deck or a deck with a common theme it's easier for your opponent make correct decisions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I've played against your &quot;Goblin deck&quot; a lot of times. I know what are your most dangerous threats, what creatures I want to kill, what spells I want to counter, how long I should wait before I play my sweeper, what your kill range is, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So say you bring a deck I've never seen before, and play a bunch of cards I've never played against, I have a harder time to make optimal decisions against you. Do you win by milling or damage? Are you searching for a combo? What's your kill range? Do I want to counter this spell or should I save the counter for your next one? Can I risk playing a creature here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, &lt;strong&gt;playing an unknown deck/playstyle/wincon will give you an information advantage&lt;/strong&gt; (unless your opponent does too) to base you decisions on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2019-03-29T11:54:49.107" LastActivityDate="2019-03-29T11:54:49.107" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-08T13:57:20.903" Score="11" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question title says it all : &lt;strong&gt;Where can I find reusable white playing cards for prototyping?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find services online to generate cards but not reusable white cards (that you can write on and erase later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1187" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T05:56:33.963" Title="Where can I find reusable white playing cards for prototyping?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-08T14:27:08.393" Score="9" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;What rules are used during international events like the recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_Cup&quot;&gt;Samsung Cup&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2096" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T16:28:11.003" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T22:05:08.420" Title="What rules are used in international events" Tags="|go|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2011-12-08T15:32:08.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That sounds very challenging, given that your erasable cards would need to NOT erase themselves during shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a card-heavy game myself, and at the moment, my plan for prototyping is to print the cards on light cardstock (I have a laser printer) and then cut them out manually.  I don't expect them to last particularly long, but for the prototyping phase, I don't need them to.  The downside is it's a bit labor intensive (though I figure a small guillotine-style paper cutter will ameliorate that), but the cost in materials will be negligible.  Would something like that be an option for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T15:32:08.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5604" CreationDate="2011-12-08T15:35:22.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sold on the Mechana Initiate as a good card.  The flexibility IS nice, but you're choosing between making it a Militia or an Apprentice -- two cards you'd be well-advised to aggressively prune from your deck.  It does very little to help you either purchase the big-ticket items or go big game hunting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early game, I suspect the correct move is to ignore it and let somebody else clutter their deck with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T15:35:22.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1350" CreationDate="2011-12-08T15:46:15.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good rule of thumb is that if you spot a game you like at a place that DOESN'T cater to hard-core gamers (like Target or Barnes &amp;amp; Noble), you may wish to consider it as a gateway game.  Somebody with a lot of money at stake is certainly wagering non-hardcore folks will enjoy it, at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T15:46:15.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2011-12-08T17:09:00.383" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it doesn't directly answer your question of where to get reusable playing cards, I have helped friends play-test card games before, and we have always just grabbed a handful of junk Magic common cards (because who doesn't have thousands of those lying around?), put them all into sleeves, and then slipped pieces of paper between the face of the card and the sleeve.  One of my favorites is taking a stack of note cards, cutting them in half, and using each half for a card face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can just change out the slips of paper when you want to update a card, and you can just recycle the old slips of paper afterwards.  When we've been short of paper, we've even cut up grocery bags, or written on the backs of receipts or used envelopes, its all the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a card is nice and stable, you can print off a nicer version and slip it into a sleeve and card if that's what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T17:09:00.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5302" CreationDate="2011-12-08T19:26:27.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the general case, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent/faq/descent-v-1-3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; does specify that you can NOT jump over water tiles. They give a pretty lame justification for it, but the real reason is that it would break a lot of the scenarios that count on that to act as a barrier. So a good rule of thumb is probably that you also can't jump over &quot;trigger&quot; type tiles that a scenario's challenge is built around. Unfortunately I can't find anything official to back that up, other than the rulebook only specifically mentioning pits in regards to jumping and the FAQ specifically saying you can't jump over water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in all our games, we always allowed jumping over damaging tiles such as lava, too. Spending the extra extra movement point to avoid a wound (which is pretty much why you'd jump over a pit, too) seemed balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T19:26:27.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2011-12-08T19:42:54.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;One that is simple to implement, doesn't add any time, and seems to up the difficulty without making it overpowering is to &lt;a href=&quot;http://fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=245&amp;amp;efcid=1&amp;amp;efidt=575122&quot;&gt;ignore the word &quot;unless&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and everything after it on mythos cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, &quot;Add a Doom token to the Doom track unless at least 1 investigator has a Spell.&quot; would become &quot;Add a Doom token to the Doom track.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly if you're playing with 4 players, these cards never seem to add doom tokens by the base rules. Another alternative would be to change &quot;unless at least 1 investigator&quot; to &quot;unless ALL investigators&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That same thread has some simple rules for making the final battle harder, but I haven't tried that one. Definitely seems in line with your goal of being simple and not adding time to the game, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T19:42:54.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2011-12-08T21:01:25.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plastic Projector Sheets Cut to sizes you need. You would only be able to use dry markers, or maybe ink pen, but whichever surface you decide to use pen marks would probably be left behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basic erasable cards or portable flexible 'white boards' &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(You can probably also use inkjets on them and erase them after as well, but that remains to be tested.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Con: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is transparent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are going to store the information on these sheets for a long time, or shuffling, consider buying card protectors, like those for trading cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use this all the time for flowcharting. &#xA;(You can put a white sheet of paper behind each sheet.btw)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T21:01:25.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="152" CreationDate="2011-12-08T21:05:18.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've also fell in love with this game recently. To play against players I am trying out MahjongTime, they give you a certain number of chips to play a day and you can play off of that. (four times a day if you don't win any games) and play for 0 mp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have different styles of play, Hong kong, Taiwanese, American... etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And different rules. Not sure I would trust them for cash games but it is a good relief for quick games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't find it very social though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mahjongtime.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mahjongtime.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2124" LastEditorUserId="2124" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T22:45:51.290" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T22:45:51.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5668" CreationDate="2011-12-08T21:58:20.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no standardized international ruleset in Go.  Generally, a tournament will use the ruleset of the hosting country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to an article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Samsung2004Dispute&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt;, at least in 2004 the Samsung Cup used Korean rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?ChunlanCup&quot;&gt;Chunlan Cup&lt;/a&gt; is (again according to SL) the only international tournament played by Chinese rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ing Cup uses Ing rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess most other tournaments use Korean or Japanese (territory scoring) rules (?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1395" LastEditorUserId="1395" LastEditDate="2011-12-08T22:05:08.420" LastActivityDate="2011-12-08T22:05:08.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-08T22:16:21.973" Score="10" ViewCount="1456" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to get our family to try out Settlers of Catan, and am wondering which version would be the easiest to begin with.  I figured the original, but some sites say that some of the other ones may be better since there is a fixed board.  Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2126" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T08:59:53.897" Title="What is the best version of Settlers of Catan for a group of people who have never played before?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5678" CreationDate="2011-12-08T23:03:11.407" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original set will do just fine; it comes with a pre-arranged layout for new players who'd rather not deal with the randomness. If your family has more than four people, you'll also want the 5-6 Player Expansion to expand the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2011-12-09T04:46:42.803" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T04:46:42.803" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5683" CreationDate="2011-12-09T14:16:11.373" Score="9" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about opening with the &quot;high point&quot; of a &quot;shimari, such as the 3-5 or 4-5 point.&#xA;The disadvantage is that it allows the opponent to enter near the corner, such as the corresponding 3-4 point. But having an &quot;extra&quot; move in the corner should compensate for that fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've noticed is that &quot;high&quot; and &quot;low&quot; playing styles alternates every decade or so. That is, &quot;low&quot; is all the rage for about ten years, until everyone knows how to play low, then &quot;high&quot; is rediscovered (after having been neglected). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could &quot;high&quot; be about to be rediscovered after a period of neglect, and would this mean that we'll soon see more &quot;high&quot; openings, particularly by White.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T16:15:02.803" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T16:15:02.803" Title="In Go, Why are &quot;High Point&quot; Openings Seldom Seen in Modern Play?" Tags="|go|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2011-12-09T16:24:42.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the best way to sort my cards was by: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creature / Non-Creature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Converted Mana Cost&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you sort it is this way you can easily compare the effectiveness of each card and you will be able reduce the size of your &lt;em&gt;usable&lt;/em&gt; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T16:24:42.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2011-12-09T18:00:54.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a database at my disposal so I can't provide hard numbers over time to confirm this, but I believe one of the reasons high point openings saw emerging popularity was that white was attempting to play quickly in order to overcome the lack of komi.  There was also the &quot;threat&quot; of playing extremely complicated joseki such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?taisha&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's: Taisha&quot;&gt;taisha&lt;/a&gt;, which would provide more opportunities for black to squander his first move advantage by making a mistake in fighting.  As the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Shinfuseki&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's: New Fuseki&quot;&gt;New Fuseki&lt;/a&gt;&quot; movement took hold, high openings continued to see play because of experiments using more influence-oriented openings, but over time things settled down and now with the extra handful of points white is not under pressure to play so severely.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, 3-5 point, etc, openings are perhaps uncommon relative to 4-4 or 4-3, but I would still not consider them rare. They are even more common if you include an approach to a corner that is ignored, and the attacker is first to continue locally - this is effectively the same things as playing a 3-5 or a 4-5 opening with a 3-4 &quot;invasion&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2092" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T18:00:54.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5604" CreationDate="2011-12-09T22:05:49.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late-game, it's a reliable way to get one honor for one rune. If you're not going to be cycling through your deck again, the goal of buying cards is to maximize the value of what's in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1608" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T22:05:49.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="431" CreationDate="2011-12-09T23:01:31.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with an ante, all players have to give the same amount before they are allowed to see their cards. Thus, everyone has an equal stake in the current hand, and folding is less common in early betting rounds. (It's the &quot;I already paid so I might as well stick around for another card&quot; mentality.) Antes have the benefit of allowing players to sit out any hand (say, to go to the restroom or take a phone call) or even quite the game without any sense of unfairness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blinds are unequal forced bets usually imposed on two players per round. After seeing their cards, the remaining players have to call or raise to stay in the hand. Since there is initially an unequal stake in the hand, folding is common. (Why stay in if you haven't put anything in the pot and you have a lousy hand so far?) Also, savvy players can &quot;over-raise&quot; on the blind round to force everyone into folding, thus slowly building wealth by bleeding their opponents of the blinds. And with a blind system, if a player needs to leave the table for some reason, the fairness of the game becomes problematic, as they obviously can't leave when they are up for a blind, but leaving at another time would rob them of a &quot;free&quot; hand. Or does everyone wait however long it takes for that player to return?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In case you can't tell, I consider blinds to be a blight on the noble game of poker. Antes are much more fair and superior to blinds in almost every way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2131" LastActivityDate="2011-12-09T23:01:31.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5701" CreationDate="2011-12-10T05:17:52.317" Score="9" ViewCount="8839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize that card counting is strongly discouraged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there systems in-place to prevent card-counting in online blackjack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1147" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-12T14:36:13.287" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T10:26:41.227" Title="Does card-counting work in online Blackjack?" Tags="|online|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-10T13:54:06.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends completely on what algorithm is used for representing and dealing the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A computer could simulate dozens of decks and could do a full deck shuffle after each hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So card counting can work, if the developer hasn't taken measures to counter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T13:54:06.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-10T18:24:56.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To flesh out my comment into an answer: unless the online casino is specifically taking steps to encourage card counting (which is highly unlikely - there are reasons for physical casinos to do this, but none for virtual casinos; see below), then it's almost certain that they won't be countable.  The reason for this is the difference between shuffling online and shuffling off.  Offline, a good shuffle is a very time-consuming operation: even with the latest shuffling machines, it either requires 15-30 seconds with the shoe into a mechanical shuffler or the bookkeeping of rotating between several shuffled decks; since Blackjack is such a fast-paced game, this time can really add up.  Furthermore, shuffling puts a lot of wear on a deck, and so shuffling more often means that the casino is going through more decks - a relatively modest cost, but definitely a non-zero one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, the shuffle operation for a virtual deck of cards is relatively quick (the most expensive operation is getting enough high-quality random numbers for the shuffle), and shuffling the deck each time is much easier to code than tracking dealt hands would be.  Here's the comparable rough pseudocode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;do {&#xA;  shuffle the deck;&#xA;  deal out a set of hands;&#xA;} (forever);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for the 'shuffle each time' method, versus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;do {&#xA;  shuffle the deck;&#xA;  while ( there are still more than half the cards left in the deck ) do {&#xA;    deal out a set of hands;&#xA;  }&#xA;} (forever);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to simulate a 'traditional' blackjack dealing scheme.  There's not a lot of difference between the two, but the latter definitely has quite a bit more bookkeeping, and there's little upside for the casinos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it's not necessarily strictly true to say that live casinos actively discourage card-counting.  They may start to lean on you if you're &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; good at it, but for quite a while many of the smaller non-strip casinos were actually encouraging counting just because it was net positive EV for them: they drew more gamblers who &lt;em&gt;thought&lt;/em&gt; they could cheat the casino by counting but couldn't actually do it well/correctly, enough to make up for the small handful of gamers who could actually do it well.  But this can't apply online, since an online casino can't police against gamers who use external aids (in this case, presumably software) to do accurate counting in the same way that a live casino can, so the percentage of 'skilled' vs. 'bad' counters is much much higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T18:24:56.543" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5692" CreationDate="2011-12-10T18:35:15.493" Score="23" ViewCount="66146" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started playing dominion a little while ago, so I'm pretty new. I get the basic tactics (big money, deck thinning, don't buy copper, etc.) and I do ok when the kingdom cards vary. However, when playing the &quot;basic&quot; game [moat, cellar, village, workshop, woodsmith, militia, etc.] I can't ever seem to win and I don't understand why. No one is playing militias (I've tried them to disrupt others strategies...to no avail)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play &quot;tournament style&quot; where you can pick your first 2 cards to purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe my initial buys are not so good? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually start out with smithy+silver, and then pick up a mine when I get my first $5. From then on I usually do: $2=cellar, $3=silver, $4=silver, maybe one more smithy, $5=market, maybe silver, $6-7=gold, $8=province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm trying to do some variant of &quot;smithy big money&quot; but it isn't working out so well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any one have a consistent strategy for the base game that works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T23:12:26.760" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T16:26:42.207" Title="Is there a strategy for consistent winning in the base dominion game with the base setup?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6549" CreationDate="2011-12-10T21:59:26.387" Score="9" ViewCount="12415" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we play with more than two people on Monopoly Deal, we have devised a rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Your only exposed card in your bank pile is the top card. All other cards&#xA;may remain hidden, as to add an element of strategy during action card play.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does introduce a possible element of cheating, as a player who wishes to deposit two or more bank cards in a single play would have little trouble concealing their effort by stacking their cards directly on top of each other, and then burying those cards in a nice, straight pile that no other player can gauge value on. Of course, we're all friends at the Monopoly Deal table, so cheating would just be a silly waste. In order to pay a fine, a player may pick up their entire bank, and select without revealing its contents to the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can imagine, this creates a new element of strategy to the game. At one point, I was about to win, and was charged money by everyone on the table. The person before me had no idea I was holding the $10M bill, and I survived the ordeal and won out. Had they known sooner, they may have pinched my bank previously, and I would have had a harder time winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any suggestions? Official responses? Does anyone else do this besides me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T11:46:31.907" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T13:53:05.230" Title="Monopoly Deal: My Bank Pile - Private or Public Information?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-10T22:04:09.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any online card game worth its salt is going to shoe in a brand new deck on every deal, every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more card counting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T22:04:09.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2011-12-10T22:44:16.823" Score="18" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/openings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Open with Militia and Silver.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a remodel on turn 2 to get rid of your bad cards and maybe throw in a smithy or another militia. Skip the mine, it's not really that great a card in this set as it gets pretty useless towards the endgame, whereas with remodel you can still turn gold into provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have 3, buy a silver for the first few turns, then &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; switch to village or nothing once silver ends up being one of the worst cards in your deck. At 4, buy maybe 1 smithy, then go with one of the 3 options. At 5, take a market as it's better than silver 95% of the time. At 6-7 take gold. At 8 take a province unless it's really early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once you get to the point where you only have &amp;lt;2 reshuffles in your deck, buy nothing but victory cards!&lt;/strong&gt; Even take an estate if you have to. At this point, your will only draw each card in your deck about 2 more times, so that duchy starts looking way better than a gold, since the you'll barely be able to use the gold at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forget that workshop, woodcutter, and mine exist. Take 1 moat only if people are getting lot of militias. Maybe take a cellar if you end up with a lot of copper and estates in your deck despite your use of remodel. Take a cellar only if you want to use a lot of actions and already have plenty of silver. Take village if you have a lot of action cards in your deck and consistently not enough actions to play them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="3286" LastEditDate="2021-11-07T20:41:01.687" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T20:41:01.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2011-12-10T23:07:07.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are buying way too many actions that don't actually combine well. Try buying a single Smithy, and then buy the first thing you can afford from this list for the rest of the game: Province, Gold, Silver. Literally, that's it. You'll be able to buy your share of the Provinces in 14 turns, on average, which is a solid strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-12-10T23:07:07.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5698" CreationDate="2011-12-11T01:27:11.577" Score="2" ViewCount="4384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic's Modern format has a rather large card pool, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22counter%20target%22%5D%20%5B%22spell%22%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Modern%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BInstant%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;90-ish counterspells&lt;/a&gt; with a good variety of mana costs and limitations. Assume you're playing a control deck that can fairly reliably take over the late game, but really wants early disruption to get there, as well as occasional protection for your big controlling power play (whether it's a combo, a powerful fatty, or just a wrath to buy you more time). Given the constraints on counterspell power represented by the Modern set, which of the counter cards available make the strongest inclusions for early-turn defensive play, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I scoped this question to Modern because it's an &quot;eternal&quot; format with many options but no access to the early-edition uber-counters like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=1491&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mana Drain&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="332" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T13:53:22.880" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T22:51:51.437" Title="Strongest early-game counters for a Modern deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2011-12-11T05:09:18.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Smithy/ Village is a good combination to have a few of, as it will allow you to draw a lot of cards in your hand. A single workshop very early can help to get the silver flowing, and help to get Smithy/Village cards, but no more.  From there, buy Province, Gold, or Silver as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="597" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T05:09:18.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="431" CreationDate="2011-12-11T13:58:13.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Antes and blinds are both collected from players to &quot;seed&quot; the pot with a single bet. But they are collected in different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ante is collected from EACH player, but represents only a FRACTION of the basic bet. (The sum of the fractions, collected from each player, amount to about one bet.) As such, everyone &quot;pays the same,&quot; and no one is at a disadvantage versus anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A (big) blind is a basic bet collected from ONE player. (A small blind, half the basic bet is sometimes collected from a second player.) They are called &quot;blinds&quot; because these players have to bet &quot;blind&quot; before receiving their cards. The others can look at their cards before deciding to call, raise, or fold to this &quot;forced&quot; bet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (big) &quot;blind&quot; bettor is thus placed at a disadvantage, but can reasonably stay in with &quot;any two cards&quot; (if not raised), since s/he bet before receiving cards. This adds an element of randomness to the game. (The small blind can play &quot;loose&quot; for only half a bet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T13:58:13.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5699" CreationDate="2011-12-11T16:10:06.027" Score="6" ViewCount="1448" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a Singing &amp;amp; Dancing Sword be played on top of another sword, or is it equipped as your primary weapon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, would the Rapier of Unfairness become A Singing &amp;amp; Dancing Rapier of Unfairness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=72775&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This forum&lt;/a&gt; discusses the matter, stating that a Singing &amp;amp; Dancing Sword is a companion (that dances to &quot;strike&quot; enemies, needing no hands). I feel that it is a rather uncommon &quot;companion&quot; card, and should be applied and discarded with the weapon it was initially placed with. To keep in line with the previous example, should the player lose their Elf status, their Singing &amp;amp; Dancing Rapier of Unfairness would become a carried item, and the player would lose both bonuses in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counter the argument, the card does not say Singing &amp;amp; Dancing &lt;em&gt;Weapon&lt;/em&gt;, so that the Chainsaw of Bloody Dismemberment would not obviously become a Singing &amp;amp; Dancing Chainsaw of Bloody Dismemberment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-09-07T01:16:22.183" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T01:16:22.183" Title="Singing and Dancing Sword - Companion, Weapon, or Upgrade?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5694" CreationDate="2011-12-11T16:22:38.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends, I suppose, on your precise definition of &quot;early game&quot;.  Most people would probably agree that the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; counter in Modern is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141819&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cryptic Command&lt;/a&gt;, but at 4cc that's not anyone's idea of &quot;early disruption&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to come out of the gates countering, you'll want to be looking at 1cc and 2cc counters.  &lt;strong&gt;At the 1-drop level, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107281&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt; is probably top of the heap&lt;/strong&gt;, because so many good, fast decks will lean heavily on good 2-drops.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=178144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spell Pierce&lt;/a&gt; might fit the bill if it's not fast creature swarms you're most worried about; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=122324&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mana Tithe&lt;/a&gt; if you want something a bit more off-the-wall (and are capable of making white mana)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond those, 2cc counters are the &quot;classic&quot; option.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241831&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt; is better than &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=121247&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rune Snag&lt;/a&gt; in the early game, which seems to be what you're worried about; and then there's the excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=87919&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Remand&lt;/a&gt;, which, while it doesn't make the problem go away permanently, hopefully makes your &lt;em&gt;tempo problems&lt;/em&gt; go away, until you can, as you say, &quot;take control of the late game&quot;.  &lt;strong&gt;Both Mana Leak and Remand are non-negotiable solutions to the problem of an opponent overrunning you in the first few turns of the game&lt;/strong&gt;, and those'd definitely be my first port of call when working out a solid base for a Modern counter-heavy deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-02T22:51:51.437" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T22:51:51.437" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5697" CreationDate="2011-12-11T17:35:54.457" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a separate piece of equipment that does not use a slot, meaning you still have two hands free for whatever you want to do with them. The card does not depend on you having another weapon in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept it represents is a weapon that can just kind of float next to you and attack stuff for you without needing you to swing it (&quot;dancing swords&quot; from D&amp;amp;D and various stories).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-12-11T17:35:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2011-12-12T02:16:51.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually found a funny way in which he can die early. The card that reads &quot;choose a player, the nobles will be randomly rearranged just before that player takes his next noble&quot;(roughly).  My opponent, sneakily chose herself. the spy moved to the back of the line. then... the cards got randomly re-arranged and she got lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that the wizards may disagree, It seems to me that the card is played and the effect was to set up the randomness.  The final randomness only occurs after whichever player is chosen is done with their action.  It's genius to use it on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2135" LastEditorUserId="2135" LastEditDate="2011-12-12T02:37:27.460" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T02:37:27.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5686" CreationDate="2011-12-12T06:32:59.950" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Online casinos use an 'infinite shoe', which would preclude any card counting, as they effectively draw random cards with a fixed probability.  This means it's possible (though very very very unlikely) for all the players at the table to draw the same card (e.g. everyone gets an eight of hearts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done both for ease of the game developer (fixed probabilities are easier to code than simulating multiple decks) and to prevent card counting (which is unenforceable on-line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, card-counting is completely ineffective on-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T06:32:59.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5310" CreationDate="2011-12-12T13:56:44.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they are not strictly balanced.  It's impossible for such a thing to be true.  Still, the degree of imbalance in a global objective sense is not as great as a the perceived imbalance of the boards given any particular set of players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 Wonders is highly interactive, so your choices affect your opponents and vice-versa.  Due to a particular set of player's strategies, some boards will certainly provide an advantage over other boards.  If you are finding one side wins more than another try adjusting your strategy (and getting other players to do so as well) to compensate, and you'll see a significant change in winning stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if a large number of games, with a wide and varying number of players with different skills in different groupings is played and collected (e.g. on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brettspielwelt.de/&quot;&gt;BSW&lt;/a&gt;) differences in wins for different sides of the board could be due to the skill-level/complexity of playing that side of the board, and not an intrinsic imbalance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T13:56:44.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-12T19:31:04.613" Score="6" ViewCount="1739" Body="&lt;p&gt;My circle of board game geeks usually celebrate Christmas by a simple gift exchange game where we take turns rolling dice to accumulate gifts, and have 2/6 chance to get a new gift but 1/6 to lose one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I feel like we're playing the rock-paper-scissors or Monopoly of gift exchanges. How can we spice this up a bit to make it more worthy of board game geeks? Just playing games and giving the winner a gift doesn't cut it, because we want it to be fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2139" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T08:47:44.827" Title="How can I arrange a Christmas gift exchange for board game geeks?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-04-24T21:29:59.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-12-12T21:42:41.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to discourage this behavior is to remember it's a race, and start racing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grabbing early options is actually a very good strategy -- it maximizes the use you'll get out of them during the game.  But once you've got a few loaded up, get your butt moving.  Every turn your opponents spend option camping is a turn you get to advance without them messing with you.  Unless the cards royally screw you (you don't get any move cards for a few turns, or somebody lucks into a devastating option combo), the head start they're spotting you can be very tough to beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T21:42:41.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2011-12-12T22:34:22.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several games that use auction mechanics to divide up gained resources.  Consider a game like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12/ra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ra&lt;/a&gt; that evenly divides up bidding chips (suns) to players, with each getting a low, medium, and high valued chip.  Then there an auction for a set of tiles with people bidding the chip they think is worth the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you can do something similar, create chips of increasing values from 1 to the number of gifts in the game.  Each player buys a random chip in exchange for putting a gift into the pool.  Now the game begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then players take turns.  On his turn a player can either add a gift to the current set of gifts being auctioned, or begin an auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the auction begins, each player starting to the left of the player who began the auction either places one or more chips in front of him to bid on the item(s).  Each player much exceed the bid of the previous player or pass.  Multiple chips may be used, their values are added.  Once everyone has passed the winner takes his gifts and the chips used are discarded.  Everyone else who didn't win the auction keeps their chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T22:34:22.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2011-12-12T23:41:46.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's one wrapped gift per person, you could do it as a white elephant exchange with pick position determined by a game of Settlers.  Or Dominion, or Agricola, or anything else that produces a score that can be used to determine not just who won but 2nd place, 3rd place, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whoever got the low score opens a present.  It's theirs!  For now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, everybody takes turns choosing a present, starting with the second-lowest scorer and working up to the winner.  When it's your turn to choose, you may either open a new present, or steal an opened present.  If your present gets stolen, you're presented with the same choice; steal somebody else's, or open a new one.  (A given present may only be stolen once per round.)  The round lasts until somebody finally grabs a previously unopened present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, whoever goes last gets the choice between the best of the N-1 known quantities, or take a chance on the Mystery Box Of Mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this with both friends and family every Christmas, with the order being determined by random draw rather than a game.  Makes for a good time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1953" LastActivityDate="2011-12-12T23:41:46.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-13T01:42:19.050" Score="9" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say  you can have more than one builder on a road or in a city, so what happens when a city is completed and it has a follower and builder of one person and a big follower and builder of another person? Does the builder count as a follower or do you only count the other normal followers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2140" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T02:17:35.147" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T02:17:35.147" Title="Does a builder count as a follower when scoring?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5707" CreationDate="2011-12-13T02:17:19.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Builders (and Pigs) are not followers and are not counted when calculating a majority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the city would be scored for the owner of the big follower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, builders and pigs were followers but this was changed a while back.  Rio Grande Games adopted this rule upon the release of the Big Box Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T02:17:19.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2011-12-13T07:43:29.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not in the current set of rules, but to avoid option hoarding my play group always said that you only get a new option card if you go to a different repair bay slot (you can use your archive token as an indicator of this).  So, you can go back and forth between two double wrenches to collect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T07:43:29.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5667" CreationDate="2011-12-13T11:53:06.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One technique that works ok is to get an old pack or two of playing cards and a roll of sticky labels, and just stick labels over the faces.  You only get one use, but the labels are quite easy to peel off and replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T11:53:06.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2011-12-13T11:57:15.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got (but don't use) and Android App called steady roller.  It auto-adjusts the probabilities to even out the randomness, but in a less predictable way than the event deck / dice deck.  I don't know its exact algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also set it to reduce the chances of 7s, if you like that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a freebie on the app market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T11:57:15.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2011-12-13T14:52:52.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an equivalent program that challenged and won the top Go masters (on the standard sized board)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_Go&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; a win at 6 stone of handicap was the best result against a pro. It's quite far from an even match&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a specific research project like this in progress?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact several scientific does reasearch in computer go theory exist and the most improvement by such researcher is monte carlo tree search which enabled computers to play even against strong amateurs (5 dan) on a 19x19 board. A good overview of top research can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mimuw.edu.pl/~lew/files/phd.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Łukasz Lew phD thesis&lt;/a&gt;. However maybe due to the difficulty of the task the means given to computer go is not comparable to the ones of computer chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T14:52:52.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5721" CreationDate="2011-12-13T15:11:52.473" Score="29" ViewCount="32382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently honing a white-green tokens deck for Standard tournament play. I feel like I have a good handle on my game-plan for most of the other common archetypes, but I'm really stymied playing against the counterspell-heavy blue decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not hard for a blue deck to run 4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Leak&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;, 4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissipate&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt;, 4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vapor%20Snag&quot;&gt;Vapor Snag&lt;/a&gt;, and 4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;, giving him &lt;em&gt;plenty&lt;/em&gt; of options to counterspell or bounce literally every single spell that I try to cast. I've tried two basic options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go aggro. Cast spells as quickly as you can, try to exhaust his supply of counterspells, and hope that one of your plays will eventually stick. (This usually doesn't work.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the waiting game. Wait for him to tap out on my end step and then sneak in a Midnight Haunting, or, more rarely, hope that he eventually taps out or runs out of cards on his turn and gives me a chance to play some creatures. (This works a little better, but is very inconsistent. It depends on Villain eventually giving me an opening, and every turn I wait is another turn where he gets a chance to draw his finishers.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there another way to play against this deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T20:51:53.393" LastActivityDate="2022-05-24T10:11:45.607" Title="What are good strategies against counterspell decks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5714" CreationDate="2011-12-13T16:10:25.437" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little surprised your &quot;aggro&quot; strategy isn't working for you. I thought that's the way a WG token deck was supposed to play… overwhelm the opponent with cheap and efficient spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You do have 4x &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241990&quot;&gt;Autumn's Veil&lt;/a&gt; in the sideboard, right? That's a key spell to play against denial necks that can help force through a key creature. Remember that it's an instant — so you can save it to respond to a counterspell or bounce. It's your green counterspell for one mana.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You might want to add some hexproof creatures, or equipment and enchantments hexproof to mitigate the bounce issue.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245198&quot;&gt;Creeping Renaissance&lt;/a&gt;. Denial decks are playing the long game. Hopefully as the game grinds on and your graveyard fills with countered spells you'll be able to play a Creeping Renaissance when you have plenty of mana and regain card advantage. If it is countered, flashback it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T16:10:25.437" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5779" CreationDate="2011-12-13T16:34:09.330" Score="8" ViewCount="1951" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Western insei recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://gooften.net/2011/12/13/c-class-third-week-update/&quot;&gt;wondered&lt;/a&gt; about the term &quot;karai&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Japanese&#xA;  players call black 57 &quot;karai&quot;, which is a term which I haven't heard&#xA;  used in western go at all! The meaning appears to be close to &quot;(a move&#xA;  creating) a solid position, including a territorial profit&quot;.&#xA;  Professionals appear to love &quot;karai&quot; moves and groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This term is apparently unknown in the West and so far I found no books explaining or even mentioning it. What does it mean exactly, and to what moves is it applied? An example board would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T08:31:54.720" Title="What is the meaning of 'karai' and how is it applied?" Tags="|go|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2011-12-13T16:44:18.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(This is a preliminary answer, I'm hoping for someone to come up with a more founded answer with example situations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, karai means &quot;clear and sharp&quot; and is typically applied to important, big moves that globally put pressure on the opponent to come up with a (global) strategy. This is different from kiai which is a little closer to (local) tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the somewhat related term &quot;aji karai&quot; which refers to a shape free of weakness. The precise difference to 'honte' is unclear to me, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T16:44:18.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-13T17:01:20.140" Score="5" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;As in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5215/do-we-have-go-endgame-tablebases-just-like-chess&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; there were two questions, I extract the second question here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T03:37:36.020" Title="Do professional-level Go players memorize a list of endgame positions as part of their training?" Tags="|go|professional|end-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5718" CreationDate="2011-12-13T17:02:14.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I don't mistake professionals learn a lot of typical local value of moves it's a way to play faster and correctly endgames I suppose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T17:02:14.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5714" CreationDate="2011-12-13T18:51:33.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I've mentioned some cards in comments that @ghoppe hasn't, I'll go ahead and mention them here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214050&quot;&gt;Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt; gives you that uncounterable hexproof big creature you'll need to punish a control deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221898&quot;&gt;Grand Abolisher&lt;/a&gt; ruins their day pretty badly (and can be very useful against some non-blue control decks as well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233041&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; is pretty efficient at getting rid of those pesky counterspells, and lets you see their hand (but beware it being countered once they know you're playing it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also advise some destruction for taking care of their bombs - a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221533&quot;&gt;Beast Within&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247423&quot;&gt;Rebuke&lt;/a&gt; can really turn the tide if they've invested in just the one creature (via bouncing and countering).  Maybe even something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233235&quot;&gt;Plummet&lt;/a&gt; if you're concerned about flyers specifically, but general removal is going to be more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T18:51:33.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5714" CreationDate="2011-12-13T19:43:15.437" Score="28" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Tactics in Play&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counterspells are powerful because they're a broad-brush answer to a lot of spells. Whatever spell type is central to your opponent's game plan, you can stop it on the stack. This versatility comes at a price, though: timing. If you've got a threat on the board, I can use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; to deal with it whenever is most convenient for me; with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Leak&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;, though, I have to cast my spell while yours is on the stack -- meaning I have to have the card in hand then and there, and the mana open to use my counter. Exploiting this weakness is the foundation of anti-counter tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that I'm assuming you're playing in a more &amp;quot;conventional&amp;quot; environment like Limited or Standard here. The dynamics of Legacy or Vintage are pretty different, but would require long digressions about a couple of particular cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play an aggressive early game.&lt;/strong&gt; Most 1-drop counters are very situational, meaning they likely won't see widespread play in a control deck. So, right off the bat, you have 1-2 turns to establish an early board presence. Rush out permanents that will help you build board position or pressure your opponent's life total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do this, be mindful of &lt;em&gt;sweepers&lt;/em&gt; (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;). A typical control-deck strategy against aggressive starts is to use just enough counters or spot removal to survive to drop a sweeper, and then clear the board and try to &amp;quot;take over&amp;quot; with raw power and card advantage. Generally speaking, early pressure is good, but disgorging your entire hand ASAP is not necessarily an optimal plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exploit your opponent's limited mana in the mid-game.&lt;/strong&gt; In the mid-game, your opponent will have enough land for counterspell mana, but you can still exploit the limitations of her mana base. Playing 1-drops and 2-drops straight into counters can put you at a mana advantage over your opponent. If you're both at 4 lands and she &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissipate&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt;s a 1-drop, you still have 3 mana to pay for other spells. It helps if you have a key card that your opponent can't easily answer once it's on the battlefield: just holding enough mana open to cast your big threat creates pressure on your opponent to let your other stuff through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another trick is to save your instant-speed plays for &lt;em&gt;your opponent's end step&lt;/em&gt;. This puts your opponent in a double bind: if she counters your current play, then she'll be tapped out on your turn, and you'll get to play a thing; if she doesn't, hey, you just got to play a thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plan for the end-game.&lt;/strong&gt; Your opponent has to play threats of her own to win. They're likely at the top of her curve (for a pure control deck) or at the bottom (for an aggro-control deck).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Against control or combo-control: Your opponent is using counterspells to slow down your development while she plays out lands to pay for her big stuff. Eventually she'll drop some big finisher or set up an engine that gives her ever-increasing advantage. Having an answer for it will help you avoid defeat (or at least force your opponent to wait a few more turns to play it, so she can have counter backup), but fundamentally you'll still want to win on speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Against aggro-control: Your opponent is trying to win on tempo. This involves setting up an early clock and then using counters and bounce spells to keep it going. Her undercosted threats become less and less powerful as the game wears on, though. Unless you can straight-up out-race her, you need to focus your efforts on stopping her clock. If you can do this, you can often grind out a win once her deck runs out of steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Deckbuilding Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make deckbuilding decisions to beat counterspell-heavy decks, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Include counter-proof lines of attack.&lt;/strong&gt; Even though they're highly versatile, counterspells still can't counter everything. So, just play offensive cards that are impervious to counters. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214050&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt; is a popular sideboard card for this reason, being immune to counterspells and most removal (as a regenerating 4/4 for 4, he's also awesome enough to maindeck). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cavern%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cavern of Souls&lt;/a&gt; can make any of your creatures uncounterable. Cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213731&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233239&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Moorland Haunt&lt;/a&gt; allow you to play offense with your &lt;em&gt;land drops&lt;/em&gt; even if all your spell cards are getting zapped with counters. This is probably the easiest way to deal with permission-heavy decks without spreading your deck too thin (though watch your color density).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sideboard specific hosers.&lt;/strong&gt; When all else fails, if you're having lots of trouble with any particular matchup, it's sensible to devote some space to it in your sideboard. Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defense%20Grid&quot;&gt;Defense Grid&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vexing%20Shusher&quot;&gt;Vexing Shusher&lt;/a&gt; can restrict counterspells. Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Summoning%20Trap&quot;&gt;Summoning Trap&lt;/a&gt; can punish them. Note that your hosers don't have to be focused on the counterspells themselves — if your opponent's deck is light on threats, you can disrupt them with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slaughter%20Games&quot;&gt;Slaughter Games&lt;/a&gt;; if they require lots of mana, try land destruction like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Molten%20Rain&quot;&gt;Molten Rain&lt;/a&gt; to delay them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't play midrange without disruption.&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;Midrange&amp;quot; is a term for archetypes that try to straddle the line between aggro and control. They try to beat aggro decks by being &amp;quot;a little bigger&amp;quot; and control decks by being &amp;quot;a little faster&amp;quot;. The problem is that &amp;quot;a little faster&amp;quot; doesn't work all that well. Oftentimes you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; beat aggro (by going &amp;quot;a little bigger&amp;quot;), but counterspells clobber your deck because you're playing most of your stuff in the midgame (when your opponent has mana for counters) but the spells in your deck generally aren't big enough that you can win the game just by getting one of them to stick. The most successful midrange-style decks typically use focused hand disruption (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;) to clear an opponent's counters and removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T15:59:44.190" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T15:59:44.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5722" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-13T21:06:57.220" Score="14" ViewCount="6907" Body="&lt;p&gt;About twenty years ago I saw this game board. It was huge, the size of a table. Made of wood. And on it was an 18-hole golf course, complete with pegs and barriers for hazards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You played with coins (or at least, when I saw it people were using coins). Using your thumb, you'd slide a quarter or penny or nickel, whatever you had presumably, and you'd bounce it off the sides of the board and the barriers and pegs, hoping to get it in the next hole. Each hole was an indented circle drilled out of the wood and was numbered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players took turns, and could hit each others coins out of the way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been looking to find it again for ages without any luck. As big as it was, it was probably expensive and produced in a limited quantity. I've search the net for penny golf, quarter golf, coin golf, for years with no luck. Now that I see a board/card game section of stackexchange, I though I'd give it another shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone heard of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2144" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-13T21:27:53.350" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T18:16:29.093" Title="Table-top Golf game with coins?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2011-12-13T22:30:52.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you describe sounds a lot like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carrom&lt;/a&gt;, but on a golf course-style board, so a (slightly gimmicky) Carrom variant. Do the games described on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.lovetoknow.com/Carrom_Golf_Board_Game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; sound like what you saw? In particular, Bumper Golf sounds like a strong candidate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bumper Golf, published by S&amp;amp;S Worldwide is a version of the Carrom&#xA;  golf board game sometimes seen in parks and arcades. The game board&#xA;  depicts an 18-hole golf course. Players shoot wooden disks from&#xA;  numbered tee spots, trying to sink their disk into the equivalent&#xA;  numbered cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An American Carrom variant based on golf is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrom#Variations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;described on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, but unfortunately there is no reference for further information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A version of American carrom was played in Southern California schools&#xA;  in the 1950s–1980s, using a somewhat larger square board and wooden&#xA;  rings struck with cue sticks.[citation needed] There was both a golf&#xA;  version and a maze version. In the golf version, there was a series of&#xA;  nine &quot;holes&quot; (really just green areas on the board.) A player had to&#xA;  start at the tee for a particular hole and get a carrom coin&#xA;  completely within the green region to advance to the next hole. Sand&#xA;  trap hazards would cause the player to lose a stroke and lake hazards&#xA;  would cause the player to lose two.[citation needed] A modified&#xA;  commercial version also exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-12-13T22:30:52.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5718" CreationDate="2011-12-14T13:35:31.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if they spend a lot of time doing point-value memorizing, but I would imagine that there is a reasonable amount of time spent studying and memorizing &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?endgametesuji&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sensei's: Endgame Tesuji&quot;&gt;endgame tesuji&lt;/a&gt;. Counting is important to properly evaluate when the tesuji are profitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2092" LastEditorUserId="2138" LastEditDate="2011-12-14T17:23:34.130" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T17:23:34.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5718" CreationDate="2011-12-14T15:13:41.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly the best book on endgames (for amateurs) was written by Tomoko Ogawa: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gobooks.info/g15.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gobooks.info/g15.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She doesn't exactly &quot;memorize&quot; endgame positions, but she gives a list a &quot;typical&quot; (and not so typical) positions, and teaches us how to COUNT them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T15:13:41.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3135" CreationDate="2011-12-14T15:13:50.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thickness is indeed about the same as strength and comes with &quot;eye potential&quot; and &quot;connectivity&quot;. We only speak of thickness in the context of outward influence, while strong enclosed groups or groups with limited potential for expansion are rather called &quot;solid&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the answers get this part right. But &quot;heavy&quot; is not at all the same as &quot;overconcentrated&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heavy stones are never thick: they may be large in number, but they lack eye potential, sometimes even making dumpling shapes. They are weak and vulnerable. More importantly, they are not easy to sacrifice, so they place a burden on the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overconcentrated stones on the other hand can be and often are thick: if a player has created 3 or more eyes for his group, such investment was exaggerated, hence the stones are called overconcentrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if you start to fill all your eyes, turning it into a dumpling shape, a thick, overconcentrated group will become heavy indeed. But this would really be a novice mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to that, it is imporant to understand that &quot;being thick, heavy or overconcentrated&quot; can be an aspect of a local group, but also of the entire distribution of stones. &quot;Black is thick&quot; means there are no easy ways to attack him. &quot;White is heavy&quot; means White has lots of burden. &quot;Black is overconcentrated&quot; means he has invested too much in a few areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2146" LastActivityDate="2011-12-14T15:13:50.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5736" CreationDate="2011-12-14T17:09:08.083" Score="8" ViewCount="8267" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfiend has a U/G standard deck (Scars/M12/Innistrad), and she's having issues with being overrun in the early game so that she can take off late game with her deck (once it takes off it's nearly impossible to kill off).  She has some mana ramp, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rampant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Rampant Growth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some strategies to tie up the early game to get her set up for late game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:46:51.327" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:46:51.327" Title="How to prevent being overrun in the early game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5728" CreationDate="2011-12-14T17:38:02.913" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If she's in blue/green, then she has several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;em&gt;blue&lt;/em&gt; side, lean on &lt;strong&gt;counterspells&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;bounce&lt;/strong&gt;. 4x &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/63.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt; will probably go into any blue deck. It's cheap (only 1U), and in the early game it's very unlikely that your opponent will have the extra 3 mana to pay to power through it. You can also run &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ddh/en/58.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vapor Snag&lt;/a&gt; to return cards to your opponent's hand (and do 1 damage!) for only U. A few of these can slow down your opponent's tempo enough to get you to your finishers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're also looking at cheap early creatures that can choke up the board enough to hold off your opponent's attacks for a few more turns, and hopefully provide a decent side-benefit. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=%28c%3Ac+or+c%21ug%29+cmc%3C%3D2+t%3A%22creature%22+f%3Astandard&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a list of all Standard-legal green, blue, and colorless creatures with a CMC of 2 or less&lt;/a&gt;. Especially promising creatures for early defense include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/mbs/en/29.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oculus&lt;/a&gt; (chump early and get a free card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/70.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Bear&lt;/a&gt; (a 2/2 for U)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/72.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Image&lt;/a&gt; (copy anything else on the board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/169.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ambush Viper&lt;/a&gt; (flash, deathtouch)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/mbs/en/95.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viridian Emissary&lt;/a&gt; (trades up nicely + free land when it dies)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/som/en/174.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memnite&lt;/a&gt; (free 1/1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/som/en/185.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Necropede&lt;/a&gt; (great potential for a 2-for-1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that I've left several great cards like Snapcaster Mage out of this list; not because they're not good, but because their primary role is something other than early defense/control.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact cards you play depend on your overall strategy, but you can certainly find &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; useful in this list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="1462" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T21:00:49.027" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T21:00:49.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2011-12-15T05:04:30.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strange, as the Japanese word &quot;karai&quot; means hot or spicy, or salty. It can also mean strict, harsh, tough. It does not sound, to me, like a word that would be used to describe a nice, solid defensive move. [EDIT: but it seems it is, see the comments]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;I'm wondering if the original person mis-heard or mis-typed the word &quot;katai&quot;. That means solid. As a negative connotation it would mean tight, stiff and close (i.e. too slow a move). As a positive connotation it would be strong, firm and steady, a move that gives your group a definite life.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T23:17:19.530" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T23:17:19.530" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5735" CreationDate="2011-12-15T11:03:45.480" Score="5" ViewCount="3125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an accepted repertoire of openings that are solid in Blitz (3-5min per side) Chess? I guess the primary factors should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reasonably solid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simple structures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimal number of tactical traps to fall into &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximal number of tactical traps for the opponent to fall into&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;quickly reach positions that make your opponent think&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And possibly secondary factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;surprise openings?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;modifications based relative strength versus opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;mouse movement!? (i.e., if the moves require less physical movement, they will a) be faster to execute, and b) be less prone to mouse errors - probably more a factor in Bullet games (1m per side)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastEditorUserId="2149" LastEditDate="2011-12-15T17:24:17.843" LastActivityDate="2017-08-21T10:05:22.163" Title="Solid openings for Blitz Chess" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-15T12:20:48.320" Score="1" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Ticket to Ride: Europe game by Days of Wonder, and it included an online registration code. Visiting the website, I noticed that some of the games had a free online preview available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried the Ticket to Ride one. It was a (Java) version of the original TTR game in not a very good quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;strong&gt;Is it common practice for publishers to provide online versions of their games?&lt;/strong&gt; Are they usually free, provided you bought the board game, or do they have to be bought separately? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:29:45.083" Title="Is it common practice to publish/sell online versions of board games?" Tags="|online|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5733" CreationDate="2011-12-15T13:17:29.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is becoming increasingly common practice, driven by the lounge console game markets and the rise of tablets.  It's not yet standard, however, and depends on the publisher.  Days of Wonder in particular have been doing a lot along these lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not usually free; generally the online game is expected to pay for itself separately.  However, it's common for the online game to be cheaper, or to have a free promotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T13:17:29.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2011-12-15T13:24:42.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the standard accepted openings in regular chess are the same that apply to blitz chess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gambit openings are more risky in blitz, as they generally involve long-term gain resulting from short-term disadvantages.  Unless you are very comfortable in a gambit opening that returns significant results fairly early, I would generally avoid them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some openings that have fallen into disfavor in standard chess may be more valid in blitz chess, as blitz is far more forgiving of slight flaws in strategy (at least at the casual level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important factor for determining what openings to use in blitz, though, are how familiar you are with the opening.  The more you play the opening, the more familiar you will be with the good responses from your opponent, and the less time you will have to take to think about your response.  The best is if you play non-blitz for a while (quick chess with 10 minute clocks, for example) and really familiarize yourself with the opening lines you are interested in.  This will give you a depth of familiarity that will make your blitz game play a lot more solid, and will also result in you being able to play faster with fewer errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprise openings suffer from the same problem in blitz chess that they do in other forms of chess: if an opponent is decent enough to not be caught off guard by the opening, they are very likely to punish you by exploiting the weaknesses of the opening (i.e. most &quot;fast mate&quot; openings rely upon premature queen development, and hoping that the opponent doesn't notice the danger; good players will immediately become wary upon early queen development, and respond by putting heavy pressure on your queen, taking the initiative from you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T13:24:42.810" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5728" CreationDate="2011-12-15T18:34:01.613" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&quot;Stages&quot; theory&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a school of thought that says Magic decks basically have 3&#xA;&quot;stages&quot; in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stage 1: You're starting out the game, and have very little ability&#xA;to actually &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; most of the things your deck does. Basically this is&#xA;the stage where you can do very little on the board other than lay&#xA;land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stage 2: You're able to play most of your cards. You have options&#xA;and can interact with your opponent. If you're both jockeying for&#xA;incremental advantage back and forth, your decks have both hit stage&#xA;2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stage 3: You're able to play your biggest, nastiest cards (or play&#xA;them &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; pay for counterspell mana to keep them on the board, for&#xA;instance). Reaching this stage means being able to set up a&#xA;back-breaking finish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this different from just talking about early game / mid game /&#xA;late game? Because we don't both get to the same stage at the same&#xA;time. Fast aggro decks basically exploit this by getting to stage 2&#xA;ASAP, then beating on your while you're still in stage 1 (or in stage&#xA;2, but lagging behind on board position because they've had a few more&#xA;turns to spill their hand out onto the table).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a ramp deck or a control deck in this matchup, whatever your&#xA;&quot;stage 3&quot; is likely to be less important than how quickly you can get&#xA;out of stage 1. Ramp decks in particular are vulnerable to aggro&#xA;because they tend to spend their early turns on mana acceleration,&#xA;which is effectively staying in stage 1 longer in order to see a&#xA;quicker stage 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General anti-aggro strategies in ramp decks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general approach to take, as you've said, is to &quot;tie up&quot; the early&#xA;game. Ramp decks usually can't race dedicated aggro (though some other combo&#xA;decks can), so this calls for a more controlling posture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General strategies are similar to the anti-aggro part of a control&#xA;deck&lt;/strong&gt;: sweepers, counters, and removal, backed up by blockers and tempo&#xA;cards to bog down the board. The problem is customizing the plan to&#xA;match your deck, which likely has other non-control elements in it,&#xA;and may be restricted by colors or the need to routinely tap out on&#xA;your own turn to advance your own game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sweepers are (probably) best&lt;/strong&gt;. If you look at recent(-ish) ramp decks like Wolf Run and Valakut,&#xA;you'll see that they tend to run sweepers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214054&quot;&gt;Slagstorm&lt;/a&gt; in red; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot;&gt;Day&#xA;of Judgment&lt;/a&gt; in white). These give you the ability to undo several&#xA;turns of build-up in one fell swoop. Blue/green don't really have the&#xA;same option, though, aside from the very limited &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214029&quot;&gt;Creeping&#xA;Corrosion&lt;/a&gt; (which might be a good sideboard card against artifact&#xA;decks). The main downside of this approach is that, since most sweepers are sorceries, it does leave you a bit weak to aggro-control decks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run value-added blockers that enhance your Plan A&lt;/strong&gt;. The other thing they do is turn their ramp cards into creatures, which&#xA;lets you get a nice blocker along with your extra land. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213728&quot;&gt;Viridian&#xA;Emissary&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236907&quot;&gt;Solemn Simulacrum&lt;/a&gt; are the go-to choices here.&#xA;Unlike mana dorks, it doesn't actually set you back to lose these guys&#xA;in a combat trade. (Note the additional synergy with board wipes!) These go great with a Birthing Pod gameplan, too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these strategies allow you to still play a proactive game and tap out on your own turn, which is what most ramp decks want to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternative approaches for blue/green&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of good sweepers and low-cost removal in your colors, &lt;strong&gt;I&#xA;think you ought to rely on the creature solution mentioned above, backed up by tempo cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at counters first. The main problem with counters is that &lt;strong&gt;any turn you spend holding open counter mana that you don't use is a pretty big loss of momentum&lt;/strong&gt;; dedicated control decks work around this by playing almost all of their low-curve stuff at instant speed (so, e.g., if there's nothing good to Mana Leak on a given turn, they'll just spend their mana on a Forbidden Alchemy or Midnight Haunting). Counters do have added value in protecting your big stuff once it hits the field, though, which can help when facing removal-heavy decks. If your have good mana sinks in your deck, then run counters; if you don't, I think you're better off skipping them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tempo cards&lt;/strong&gt; are easier to fit into a ramp deck because you usually play them on your opponent's turn, but, unlike counters, you already know whether you'll have a viable target during your own turn, when you're deciding whether to play your stalling cards or advance your own board position. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249373&quot;&gt;Vapor Snag&lt;/a&gt; has already been mentioned. It's a strong card in the current environment because bounce removes stockpiled +1/+1 counters and exiles tokens. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220284&quot;&gt;Frost&#xA;Breath&lt;/a&gt; is another great card -- played right, it basically turns off their two biggest attackers for &lt;em&gt;two turns&lt;/em&gt;. When you're playing for tempo as the bigger deck, remember&#xA;that these cards are no better than treading water unless you &lt;strong&gt;keep&#xA;making your land drops&lt;/strong&gt;; throwing in filtering cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244313&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;can help you to do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a particular deck or card is costing you most of your games, it's&#xA;also reasonable to &lt;strong&gt;sideboard&lt;/strong&gt; against it. For example, in the current metagame, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237015&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;is very effective against Red Deck Wins (hits their Shrine), Tempered&#xA;Steel decks (hits nearly everything in their deck, including Tempered Steel and Shrine of Loyal Legions), and most weenie decks (hits Swords, Honor of&#xA;the Pure / Intangible Virtue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-16T15:41:09.410" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T15:41:09.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5738" CreationDate="2011-12-15T20:52:41.163" Score="31" ViewCount="227779" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Commander deck consists of 100 unique cards, of which one is designated as the Commander and &lt;em&gt;must be&lt;/em&gt; either a Legendary Creature or an allowed Planeswalker.  I'm still very unfamiliar with this format.  How would you go about figuring out the number of lands to put into your commander deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T23:22:33.553" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T14:13:26.927" Title="How many lands do I need for a Commander deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5737" CreationDate="2011-12-15T21:03:03.387" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the slower pace of play in EDH/Commander, it isn't as drastically important to hit 5-6 land drops in 5-6 turns.  In addition, the number of &amp;quot;mana rocks&amp;quot; (mana-generating artifacts) and dual lands/mana filtering/land fetch cards are usually higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that, the 40% lands rule is still fairly close to normal (lightened obviously for the reasons above).  I've run 34-36 land decks successfully, but usually you see 37-40 with some of the previously mentioned accelerators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abnormal decks (with huge numbers of accelerators) will run as few as 32 lands (the equivalent of running about 13 in a 40-card limited deck), but I'd recommend starting around 40 and cutting around one land per three accelerators (if you're trying to cut land, and not running very high-cost spells).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do also remember that running fewer lands with more mana rocks leaves you open to blowouts when someone wipes artifacts with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Austere%20Command&quot;&gt;Austere Command&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Merciless%20Eviction&quot;&gt;Merciless Eviction&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shatterstorm&quot;&gt;Shatterstorm&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Creeping%20Corrosion&quot;&gt;Creeping Corrosion&lt;/a&gt;, etc. - you don't want to be stuck on four lands when your couple of Signets and Thran Dynamo get wiped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, the Devour for Power Commander deck shipped with 40 lands and four mana-generating artifacts, but it is fairly heavy on costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T15:33:24.983" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T15:33:24.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-12-15T22:11:38.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yuan Zhou just published a book on this topic. Check out Slate and Shell for sample pages. I am a big fan of Zhou's books and will certainly buy this one. He has a nice way of writing towards kyu level players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Title: Learning from Pro Games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Author: Zhou, Yuan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Year: 2011&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISBN: 9781932001-57-0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Price: $20.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slateandshell.com/SSYZ015.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.slateandshell.com/SSYZ015.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2150" LastActivityDate="2011-12-15T22:11:38.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5733" CreationDate="2011-12-16T00:08:25.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's actually quite rare. I've never encountered any other company doing so for free or even reduced cost on their own dime, save for the &quot;instructional&quot; modes. I've heard there are a couple others doing so, but I've not encountered them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several 3rd party developers have made money by paid subscriptions to their sites and hosting lots of games under license, and others by advertising supported free online play of various games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've often seen companies link to such venues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Days of Wonder used to only give you 6 months access to their online lobby with a game, but it allowed access to all games. Now, they provide access to just the games purchased, but noting that a few unsupported games are able to be accessed free (Including Queen's Necklace online...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note: Many electronic versions of various games are unlicensed - there are a few dozen free versions of Monopoly that are actually not licensed; the official version isn't free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind: most boardgame companies are not staffed with programmers; DoW is an exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 3/5/2012&lt;/strong&gt;: I've since noticed others doing so. Amarillo Design Bureau licensed a programmer to create and maintain SFB-Online. A couple other companies have likewise placed electronic versions of their games up as pay to access; most of the &quot;unfree&quot; access now is advertising supported or is in-game payments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T01:25:40.800" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T01:25:40.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5745" CreationDate="2011-12-16T16:29:47.377" Score="21" ViewCount="165262" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a commander on the field, and an opponent uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83746&quot;&gt;Sisters Of Stone Death&lt;/a&gt; to force your commander to block the sisters and then exiles your commander?  Does it remain exiled, or does it go back to your commander zone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T15:27:33.707" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T15:27:33.707" Title="What happens when a commander is exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5743" CreationDate="2011-12-16T16:42:05.850" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever a Commander is exiled or enters the graveyard, they are returned to toe command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only zones your commander remains in are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Command zone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Library&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good strategy for commander removal is to put them on the bottom of their owner's library. This is a bit mean, however, and may not make you many friends :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T16:42:05.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5743" CreationDate="2011-12-16T17:12:03.427" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a commander is in a graveyard or in exile and that card was put into that zone since the last time state-based actions were checked, its owner may put it into the command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a commander would be put into its owner’s hand or library from anywhere, its owner may put it into the command zone instead. This replacement effect may apply more than once to the same event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtgcommander.net/index.php/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in this case, you get to choose whether it goes into exile or the command zone. If you put it in the command zone, then your opponent can't use the Sisters' other ability to bring it back, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several important nuances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to put your commander back in the command zone. This is handy if, for instance, you can't afford to hardcast your commander, but you've got a reanimation spell in your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As of the June 2020 rules update, your commander will hit the graveyard or the exile zone before going to the command zone, and will trigger &amp;quot;on exile&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;on graveyard&amp;quot; triggers. E.g. if you are playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=75286&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keiga&lt;/a&gt; as your commander, you can steal a creature if you put Keiga in the command zone when it dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Owner, not controller. Even if someone else Mind-Controls your commander, you still get to pick whether it goes back into your command zone. If they use Mindslaver on you, however, they can choose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You only get a choice when your commander has just reached the new zone, in the case of the graveyard or exile, or just before it goes there, in the case of your hand or library. So, if you put it into the graveyard or exile, it'll stay there just long enough to trigger any relevant abilities, but there is no opportunity for anyone to gain priority and start playing spells or activating abilities before it moves to the command zone. If someone exiles it from your graveyard, you can scoop your commander back into the command zone. Mimeoplasm, for example, can copy a dead commander like any other creature card in your graveyard, but at least you can put that commander back in your command zone since it gets exiled (Mimeoplasm still comes into play as the copy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recasting your commander from your hand doesn't cost extra like bringing it back from the command zone does; nor does it count for figuring out how many times you've cast it from the command zone already.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rare card interactions can cause a card to move from one zone to the same zone. If that happens to your commander, fear not: you do still get the option to put it in the command zone. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/27708/1910&quot;&gt;See this answer for a detailed explanation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="9777" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T15:07:09.313" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T15:07:09.313" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5747" CreationDate="2011-12-16T19:40:52.837" Score="8" ViewCount="9434" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Parallel%20Lives&quot;&gt;Parallel Lives&lt;/a&gt;, and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doomed%20Traveler&quot;&gt;Doomed Traveler&lt;/a&gt; that just died, how many Spirit tokens would I put into play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T04:30:37.990" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T03:52:09.680" Title="Interactions of multiple Parallel Lives" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5746" CreationDate="2011-12-16T20:02:25.623" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each instance of Parallel Lives (or Doubling Season) in play, double each instance of a token that would enter play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parallel Lives' effect is a replacement effect. It replaces &amp;quot;Put X creature tokens into play under your control&amp;quot; with &amp;quot;Put 2X creature tokens into play under your control.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, two Parallel Lives' would quadruple tokens, three would be eight times, and four would be sixteen.  Effectively, for each token placement, replace every token with two tokens for each instance of Parallel Lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appropriate comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.5. A replacement effect doesn't invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: A player controls two permanents, each with an ability that reads &amp;quot;If a creature you control would deal damage to a creature or player, it deals double that damage to that creature or player instead.&amp;quot; A creature that normally deals 2 damage will deal 8 damage -- not just 4, and not an infinite amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Relevant Oracle text mentioned by @AlexP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9/22/2011&lt;/strong&gt; - If you control two Parallel Lives, then the number of tokens created is four times the original number. If you control three, then the number of tokens created is eight times the original number, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T20:26:20.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2093" CreationDate="2011-12-16T20:46:03.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with &quot;Fairgrounds&quot; from the Cornucopia expansion I sometimes buy a curse just to have another type of card in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2156" LastActivityDate="2011-12-16T20:46:03.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5752" CreationDate="2011-12-17T20:47:55.050" Score="12" ViewCount="22243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to have a MTG draft with some of my friends, but I'm not exactly sure how much time I should block out. We'd be using 40 card decks with 3 boosters total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;About how long will the drafting itself take? Does this time vary much with number of players?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;About how long will each individual game between 2 players take? Since we'll have to wait for people to finish occasionally, how long should I budget for each round?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;About how long will the whole thing take? We will have enough rounds so that everyone can play each other once:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 players: 3 rounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5 players: 5 rounds (everyone sits out 1 round)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 players: 5 rounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7 players: 7 rounds (everyone sits out 1 round)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8 players: 7 rounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T08:33:04.113" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T00:47:44.573" Title="How long will an MTG draft take with varying number of players (approximately)?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|play-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5751" CreationDate="2011-12-17T22:55:16.087" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether you use the official rules or house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In appendix B of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Document.aspx?x=Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules&quot;&gt;MTG official tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; (not the same thing as the comprehensive rules) it gives recommended time limits for sanctioned tournaments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each pick has an associated time limit, which starts at 40 seconds and drops by 5 seconds roughly every two cards. The total time allocated to picks for a single pack is 285 seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Between packs, there is a period for review of the cards you've picked, which is 30 seconds after the first pack, 45 after the second, and 60 after the third.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deck construction gets 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each round gets 50 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So based on these numbers alone, you would need a total of (285/60)*3+(30+45+60)/60+30+50*N = 46.5+50N minutes. In practice, people will need a few minutes between rounds to clear their head and change seats, but for only a few people, that won't be a long process. Still, as a decent estimate, you could set aside &lt;strong&gt;an hour per round plus one&lt;/strong&gt; additional hour for drafting and deck construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My monthly(ish) drafting group has no time limits at all for draft picks. If your group is not full of competitive players and you're just doing it for fun, I highly recommend this. You can still get the drafting and deck construction done in about an hour, since you can always make fun of whoever is the slowest picker at the table ;-) (The draft time depends on the number of cards that are being picked, not the number of players)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also keep in mind that Magic tournaments are mentally draining. After 3 or 4 rounds people can start to get tired of playing. In my experience a 3-round tournament works well, and it's possible to adapt it to different numbers of players by doing a Swiss structure with ranking-based pairings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T22:55:16.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5754" CreationDate="2011-12-17T23:03:05.230" Score="5" ViewCount="2080" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously with the card game, there's not a board or tokens, but is the card game version just as engaging as the board game version? It would be ideal to travel with just the cards, but I'm not sure I want to purchase it if it is severely lacking somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2159" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T16:33:40.637" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T16:33:40.637" Title="What is the difference between the board game &quot;Clue&quot; and the card game &quot;Clue&quot;?" Tags="|board-game-adaptations|cluedo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5753" CreationDate="2011-12-17T23:46:14.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card game preserves all the same important features present in the board game. All the deductive elements are still present, and the core gameplay is still the same - each player has cards which they reveal as you make accusations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are small thematic differences. Instead of the murder in the house, you are on the trail of the murderer. Room, weapon and person are replaced with destination, vehicle and person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of a board, players each have a destination marker, representing their location. You can move between destinations in order to ask particular questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are able to do on your turn is dictated by the action card you draw, so there is a little more randomness than in the board game, but also more variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I'd say the card game reworks the mechanics without losing any of the deductive interest of the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want (a lot) more detail, one good comparison/review is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/477367/it-cuts-the-mustard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one on BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-12-17T23:46:14.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5287" CreationDate="2011-12-18T20:24:38.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some tried-and-true picks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fast aggro&lt;/strong&gt;: The basic idea here is to overwhelm your opponent with repeated attacks by low-cost aggressive creatures, backed up by some efficient removal to clear the way, and maybe a bit of burn to finish him off. Fundamentally we're describing a Red Deck Wins strategy, so it shouldn't be surprising that red-black and red-white tend to be the strongest colors for this approach; you can do without red but you really have to go all-in on good weenie creatures to do so. The bedrock of this archetype are cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226747&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diregraf Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reckless Waif&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226748&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vampire Interloper&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloistered Youth&lt;/a&gt;. For the higher end of your curve, try to pick up creatures that can help you push through more damage, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230779&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crossway Vampire&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227415&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Instigator Gang&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230777&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Morkut Banshee&lt;/a&gt;; undercosted beaters like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Galvanic Juggernaut&lt;/a&gt; are also good. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brimstone Volley&lt;/a&gt; absolutely rocks in this deck, but also keep an eye out for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geistflame&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220393&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dead Weight&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bonds of Faith&lt;/a&gt;. In play, be aggressive and try to win as fast as possible. Cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rally the Peasants&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220386&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nightbird's Clutches&lt;/a&gt; are also good, but don't short yourself on creatures in order to play them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evasive beats&lt;/strong&gt;: This is the same strategy as &quot;blue/white flyers&quot; in a number of other sets. You use hard-to-block creatures to consistently get in some damage with flyers (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243215&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Voiceless Spirit&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stitched Drake&lt;/a&gt;) while sandbagging your opponent with blockers (e.g. big-butt creatures like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fortress Crab&lt;/a&gt;, spirit-makers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237364&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doomed Traveler&lt;/a&gt;) and controlling spells (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bonds of Faith&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensory Deprivation&lt;/a&gt;). Take note: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Invisible Stalker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skaab Goliath&lt;/a&gt; are also &quot;evasive&quot; creatures! This deck can generally afford to run more auras and equipment than most decks (especially if you manage to pick up Stalkers), though you should be choosy with your picks; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230775&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spectral Flight&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230767&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curiosity&lt;/a&gt; are both good. Unlike the fast aggro deck, you don't so much want to rush to a win as cruise to one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Midrange beats&lt;/strong&gt;: Basically this is an deck that spreads its threats out across the curve, beating other aggressive decks with its ability to &quot;go bigger&quot; while still having enough pressure to punish slow decks. You can do it in various colors, but green tends to be a solid choice because of the density of beefy creatures like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Festerhide Boar&lt;/a&gt;. You can make a pretty cool tribal deck with white-green humans-and-werewolves, thanks to &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; human lords (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hamlet Captain&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222189&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mayor of Avabruck&lt;/a&gt;) and cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222910&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elder Cathar&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227409&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatstaf Shepherd&lt;/a&gt;. Some token-makers (even if it's just the lowly Doomed Traveler) can help give your deck a lot of resilience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mill yourself&lt;/strong&gt;: Here's an archetype that's very specific to Innistrad. You want to use cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226758&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forbidden Alchemy&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mulch&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of the Bloody Tome&lt;/a&gt; to fill your graveyard, then, erm, do stuff with that. Your options for &quot;doing stuff&quot; vary. Initially conventional wisdom was to draft flashback spells, but it's not that effective: most Innistrad flashback spells are priced to be cast affordably from the hand, and then flashbacked a few turns later as a bonus. Milling yourself just to pay 8 for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243208&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grasp of Phantoms&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a good deal! What does work pretty well is creature-based self-mill. Self-mill in a creature-heavy deck fills your yard up with cards you can use to reliably cast those sweet &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stitched Drakes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222916&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Makeshift Maulers&lt;/a&gt;, while cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gnaw to the Bone&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spider Spawning&lt;/a&gt; (splash black), &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boneyard Wurm&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249868&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kessig Cagebreakers&lt;/a&gt; take great advantage of the massive number of creatures in your yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, on the sketchier side...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Control&lt;/strong&gt;: You're not going to be able to draft a perfect imitation of a Constructed control deck using the card distribution in Limited, but I think there's room for a control deck in the environment. Blue and black are the classic control colors; in Limited, red is also important because it has the broadest access to removal effects. Don't write off any color, though, because the real goal here is to pick a bunch of best-in-class answers that you can use to dominate the board. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249660&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rolling Temblor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220023&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Victim of Night&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt; are examples of removal cards you'll want. Innistrad isn't as bomb-focused as other formats, but a big crazy rare can really make your day -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247235&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Olivia Voldaren&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230768&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reaper from the Abyss&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230774&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Balefire Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227061&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bloodline Keeper&lt;/a&gt; (if you find yourself unable to go red/black aggro), maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ludevic's Test Subject&lt;/a&gt;; Skaab Goliath works in a pinch. You'll also want to run some low-cost creatures for defense, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220634&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Typhoid Rats&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226749&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delver of Secrets&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stitched Drake&lt;/a&gt; (depending on your creature-vs.-spells density). Play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226758&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forbidden Alchemy&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221209&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Civilized Scholar&lt;/a&gt; to help you dig for answers. Since you're running three or more colors, you'll want mana fixing (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237357&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Traveler's Amulet&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimmering Grotto&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tempo&lt;/strong&gt;: Basically you play some awesome cheap creatures and then use bounce, removal, and some counterspells to slow down your opponent while you win the game. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226749&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delver of Secrets&lt;/a&gt; is common, which is what really enables this deck. Cheap flashback spells like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silent Departure&lt;/a&gt; are good. I wouldn't do this as a first-choice strategy, but it's a fun deck to build if you find yourself with several Delver-level creatures but lacking the cards to go full aggro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flashback combo&lt;/strong&gt;: This is a &quot;garbage man&quot; strategy relying on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243211&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Burning Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; and loading yourself up with flashback spells nobody wanted to pick. Some self-mill can help, but, again, watch the flashback costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-18T22:23:47.930" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T22:23:47.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35430" CreationDate="2011-12-18T22:51:04.740" Score="9" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a unit with 5 strength and 2 wounds. The attacker wants to use the resource ability of &lt;code&gt;mathematics&lt;/code&gt; to finish the unit, the defender the healing effect of &lt;code&gt;animal husbandry&lt;/code&gt;. Which effect is resolved first? According to the rules, there is no stack, so is it really just the one who cries loudest or fastest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T01:52:02.870" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T14:49:57.003" Title="Who's first in a battle in Sid Meier's Civilization: The Board Game (from 2010)?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2093" CreationDate="2011-12-18T22:52:17.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friend of mine bought one in a Garden-based deck - he had 79 cards and copper ran out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastActivityDate="2011-12-18T22:52:17.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5756" CreationDate="2011-12-19T05:00:09.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards with Battle abilities can only be played before or after an attack on an enemy front (or starting a new front), not during the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Animal husbandry can therefore only remove wound tokens from units who've survived with some damage.  Likewise, Mathematics can only add wound tokens to units already in fronts.  All these cards are resolved before the next card is played (which will kill any units who've suffered wounds equal to their strength) or also at the 'end of the battle' which in the rules, explicitly checks again for dead/surviving units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case you listed, therefore, a wound token is removed then added or added then removed, then the unit is only 'checked' later after all cards have been resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if you initiate the mathematics, you might put more than a unit's strength in wound markers on an enemy if you want to guard against the use of animal husbandry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this particular case doesn't matter, the more general answer is this, though there is no stack, the rules say that you take turns playing cards (defender first) and also that battle abilities are played immediately before or after playing a card.  This implies that you take turns playing battle abilities, just like cards.  After your opponent plays a card and the attack is resolved, you can ask him or her to explicitly give up control to you to play a card (asking them if they are going to use any battle abilities before you declare your action).  Once you declare, it's too late to use an ability on you, since it's your control now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T05:00:09.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-19T13:49:10.283" Score="5" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how playing Mythos cards works. I read that the Keeper can play 1 Mythos card in the investigators' turn. Does that mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) when playing against 4 investigators, the Keeper can play 4 Mythos cards (one card each per single investigator's turn) before his turn comes,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) the Keeper can play only 1 Mythos card per a complete turn cycle of all investigators (i.e. the Keeper can play 1 Mythos card before his turn comes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2160" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T19:26:24.177" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T19:47:10.303" Title="How many Mythos cards can be played during the investigator's turns?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5761" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-19T14:17:01.253" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T14:17:01.253" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T14:17:01.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5762" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-19T14:17:01.253" Score="0" Body="Terminology refers to the lingo of the trade, definition and understanding of the terms used by experts on a subject." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T14:26:47.977" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T14:26:47.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5763" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-19T14:24:47.397" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T14:24:47.397" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T14:24:47.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5764" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-19T14:24:47.397" Score="0" Body="Yose refers to moves in the game of Go that finish taking points without relevance to opening or midgame strategies. It is played at the end of the game." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T14:26:50.113" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T14:26:50.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5765" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-19T14:25:57.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rīchi&lt;/em&gt; mahjong is the Japanese variant of the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mahjong&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mahjong&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mahjong&lt;/a&gt; &quot;set-building&quot; game played with a standard set of tiles. While tiles are the primary medium, the game is available as online web services (net mahjong) or can be played with regular mahjong playing cards. It's a four player game that combines calculation and strategies that is found in competitive games like chess with the elements of observation skills, risk assessment, and luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While &lt;em&gt;Rīchi&lt;/em&gt; mahjong shares many general principles with the other mahjong variants, it has very distinct rule variations, especially with scoring. It is the objective of each player to develop their hands to accumulate more points than any of the opponents. In combination with &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;dora&lt;/em&gt;, the number of &lt;em&gt;han&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;fu&lt;/em&gt; correlates to a specific number of points to determine the value of a hand, in the event of winning a hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong-europe.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;European Mahjong Association&lt;/a&gt; (Official; Information on rules, upcoming tournaments, tournament results and observer reports, player rankings and the rules in English)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ukmahjong.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UK Mahjong Association&lt;/a&gt; (Official; Information on Riichi open tournaments, affiliated clubs and other things)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tenhou.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tenhou.net&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Japanese)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Free net mahjong, playing history, detailed statistics and replays, many active players regardless of time of day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://arcturus.su/wiki/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Japanese Mahjong Wiki&lt;/a&gt; (Encyclopedic information on rules, terminology, and strategies that anyone can contribute to)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://saki.wikia.com/wiki/Riichi_mahjong&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Riichi Mahjong on Saki Wikia&lt;/a&gt; (Details and more information on the game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://osamuko.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Osamuko's Japanese Mahjong Blog&lt;/a&gt; (One of the most extensive online mahjong blogs in English)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://reachmahjong.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ReachMahjong.com&lt;/a&gt; (Ran by professional players who wrote the Riichi Mahjong study book; you can find more WWYD problems and discussions, strategy guides, reports on tournaments and more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjongnews.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mahjong News&lt;/a&gt; (Updated regularly with information on upcoming mahjong tournaments (Riichi, MCR, and on-&#xA;line), their results, newly released mahjong books, and more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8427" LastEditorUserId="8427" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T21:35:43.817" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T21:35:43.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5766" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-19T14:25:57.803" Score="0" Body="Riichi Mahjong is a kind of Mahjong commonly played in Japan. It is famous for being suited to gambling and mahjong parlors." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T14:26:45.837" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T14:26:45.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5773" CreationDate="2011-12-19T15:11:56.483" Score="28" ViewCount="5638" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I play with my housemates and friends, Carcassonne often becomes 'farm wars'; everyone who understands the nuances of farm play gets caught up in playing meeple (or as I call them, 'dudes') whether or not it helps, as we know how much of a game winner it can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often it results in everyone wasting 2-3 farmers when someone gets the super farm at the end, or players who don't place a farmer dude seriously lagging behind. It wouldn't be so bad if we didn't always get one large farm that everyone goes for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do we avoid the trap of focusing on farms too much?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;(&lt;em&gt;would house rules help us out?&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7/there-seem-to-be-several-different-scoring-systems-for-fields-cities-in-carcasso&quot;&gt;third edition scoring rules&lt;/a&gt; and no expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T16:20:20.420" Title="What is the best strategy to avoid large farms in Carcassonne?" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5360" CreationDate="2011-12-19T15:17:56.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ada Wong's ability allows her to look at the top card of the mansion deck, and either leave it on top, or place it on the bottom of the mansion deck. Although the rule book is unclear about a lot of aspects of the game, I don't think it is unclear what to do about Infected with Effects. The rules say that if an infected is revealed and it has an effect, take note of it, and apply it when the effect says so. Ada Wong's ability allows her to look at the card, not reveal it (a specific game term, that would make the top card open information), so no effects are triggered. I can also be determined from the rules, that only after revealing the top card of the mansion that you either defeat the infected and add it as a decoration to your character, or not defeat it is placed on the bottom of the mansion deck. So, any infected effects that trigger on not being defeated would only do so after being revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2161" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T15:17:56.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2011-12-19T15:37:41.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way to fight the &quot;big farm&quot; problem is to break it up -- play road and city tiles aggressively to close it off where you can.  Failing that, you have to join the crowd and have more meeples than anyone else in the end, which I agree is hard and kind of a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T15:37:41.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5778" CreationDate="2011-12-19T15:44:20.813" Score="6" ViewCount="2906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know some people enjoy playing this way, but the other 50% of players seem to prefer a more casual game. This often stops people wanting to play at all, and so Settlers gets left on the shelf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issues we have are often:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/567/2133&quot;&gt;Unfair/endless trades&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning the board is split between those who make ridiculous demands (3 to one trades as described in the link), and those 'who don't ask for enough', which is equally annoying to the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/577/2133&quot;&gt;Unscrupulous tactics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again splitting the table evenly (both sides find each other's options non-agreeable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Playing to block&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player knows you want resource X for your road, so blocks you off, again and again. To the point you feel there is no need to bother playing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the answers in the questions above&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/567/2133&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/577/2133&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; combat this if players agree on one of the answers, I feel sure there must be some middle ground introduced by a house-rule or convention to &lt;strong&gt;make Settlers more friendly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Added another 'nasty' trick I've seen for 'fun'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T23:55:08.183" Title="How to make Settlers of Catan less cut-throat?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|etiquette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2011-12-19T18:20:41.143" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of expansions I think could help, as well as some strategery. &lt;strong&gt;First, expansions&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/18836/carcassonne-the-river-ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The River II&lt;/a&gt; tends to at least break the board up into 2 or 3&#xA;big farms, if not lots of smaller ones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/31784/carcassonne-abbey-mayor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&lt;/a&gt; adds a Barn piece that can really change the way&#xA;fields are played.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think the dragon from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/15158/carcassonne-the-princess-the-dragon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Princess &amp;amp; the Dragon&lt;/a&gt; might play in&#xA;here as well, but I haven't ever actually played that expansion, and&#xA;it doesn't appeal to me generally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/2993/carcassonne-inns-cathedrals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/a&gt; can really beef up city and road scoring,&#xA;rendering farms less important.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other expansions could also help simply by adding tiles. Since more players means fewer tiles per player, adding more tiles can hold off the farm rush a bit. Adding other scoring mechanisms also helps de-emphasize farms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now for strategy:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Push for big cities. In general, my friends and I tend to fight over big cities, with some scoring over 30 points. Cities score more points this way than as field consumers, so if you exclusively focused on this while your friends exclusively focused on fields, you'd win every time. In reality, putting meeples on fields too early in the game tends to cripple players from playing on cities and cloisters, so take advantage and &quot;share&quot; their cities once they are out of meeples to fight back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make little fields pockets. If you spot an area where there are going to be three or four cities, try to isolate it and own it with just one farmer. This happens all the time in games I play, and is really annoying to be left out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toward the end of the game, it's natural for everybody to start going for the big fields, but picking the right moment to really start pushing for this is part of strategy, so just enjoy it. If you are playing with 4 or 5 players, you have many fewer tiles per player than with 2 or 3, so farm rushing happens earlier. One possible way to take advantage is to just try to share in lots of features, rather than winning all of them. If you share every other players big cities or farms, you will do better than if you try to hoard the features to yourself. Obviously this is not true in a 2-player game, and not as true in a 3-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="15610" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T16:20:20.420" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T16:20:20.420" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2011-12-19T18:24:42.690" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played plenty of games that ended up with a lot of points being scored by the person who owns the largest farm.  Having said that I've played plenty of games where either that person didn't win, or where the game ended with several smaller farms (and consequently the game didn't hinge on this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important consideration is what &lt;b&gt;rule set&lt;/b&gt; you are playing.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne_%28board_game%29#Older_editions&quot;&gt;old system&lt;/a&gt; for farming gave four points per city to whoever had the most farmers supplying it.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne_%28board_game%29#Scoring&quot;&gt;new system&lt;/a&gt; gives three points per owned farmland per adjacent city.  In my experience the old rules ended up with a giant farm more often than the new rules.  I think this is largely due to the scoring &quot;per owned farmland&quot; in the new rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second consideration is &lt;strong&gt;stage of the game&lt;/strong&gt;.  The game is designed in such a way that farming is meant to be lucrative.  The issue is timing.  You don't want to invest your meeples in farming too early, as they cannot then score points elsewhere.  You don't want to wait too late, otherwise you will find all the good farmland is owned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third contributor to emphasis on farming is the &lt;strong&gt;expansions&lt;/strong&gt; being used.  We regularly use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2993/carcassonne-inns-cathedrals&quot;&gt;inns and cathedrals&lt;/a&gt; expansion, and this often means that players are focused for the main part of the game trying to gain ownership of a large cathedral city.  A city that is worth three points per tile cannot easily be ignored.  What's more, if the city is completed, then the owner gets their meeples back, and can still choose to invest them in farming at a later point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short I would suggest playing the new ruleset (if you aren't already) and using an expansion such as inns and cathedrals.  Maybe the suggestion to draw from my second point is that farming is a part of the game, but it's not the only part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T18:24:42.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5760" CreationDate="2011-12-19T19:25:57.360" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The keeper can play one Mythos card per investigator's turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, bottom of the first column on page 16:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The keeper may play a &#xA;  maximum of one Mythos card per investigator turn and may &#xA;  never play Mythos cards during the keeper’s own turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player/investigator has his own turn each round.  Playing against 4 investigators, the keeper could play a maximum of 4 Mythos cards a round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From pg. 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing the Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mansions of Madness is played over a number of game rounds. &#xA;  During each round, each player resolves his turn (starting with &#xA;  the investigators)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T19:47:10.303" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T19:47:10.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2011-12-19T19:49:55.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am teaching an 8-year-old right now. He is so competitive that he was immediately addicted. We play with all the pieces. I think this is fine because he wants to feel he's being challenged and playing like an adult. When he wants to move a piece, and isn't sure what his legal moves are, he just asks me, and we talk through which moves are a good idea and which are not. I let the game go for a long time so he can have fun moving the pieces and taking the pawns. He has quickly developed a good sense of cause and effect, and knows not to move his pieces into the path of opponent pieces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before or after a game we often go over the legal moves for each piece with an empty board, or we set up one of the positions that occurred during the game and talk through it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are good chess books out there that are written for kids. I just ordered [Chess for Children].&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1904600069&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; This book would probably work fine for a 5-year-old, with an adult reading along. The boy I'm teaching had some difficulty with handling the little pieces of my book-style wooden set. He would also get so excited sometimes that he would knock the pieces over. So I got him a cheap vinyl tournament board and triple-weighted plastic pieces. This larger board and pieces is much easier for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest concept seems to be checkmate. As in &quot;I watch movies and play video games where it's kill kill kill, and now you want me to just keep this guy from moving?!&quot; It's a very adult concept, and probably a good one for kids to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest thing at that age is to just keep it fun. If you can keep him playing, you are doing wonderful things for his critical thinking and spatial skills. He is learning how to think ahead, and he is developing a nuanced model for human interactions, including conflict and consequences.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2164" LastEditorUserId="2164" LastEditDate="2011-12-19T19:56:15.343" LastActivityDate="2011-12-19T19:56:15.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2011-12-19T22:49:31.113" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;3:1 trades are not unfair; they're bank rate. At which point the trading partner should simply trade with the bank, as that is a winning strategy. Anything better than 2:1 is better than dedicated port trades, and is only useful when you will gain more than your trade partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendations for curing both at once are straightforward, but brutal. And they are not exactly &quot;Tournament Catan&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;restrict the nature of offers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one pass only on a given resource offer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reply in sequence only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no &quot;counter offers&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No rejection of particular opponent. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By restrict nature of offers, limit it to offers of &quot;I have 2 X and am looking for a Y&quot;. I'd allow the following rates: 1:1, 2:1 &amp;amp; 3:2. (3:1 should be restricted to bank trades via a port only.) Likewise, if you have the resource port, you should be required to use it instead of making a 2:1 trade offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One pass only means, if no one bites on the offer, you can't try it again that turn. If it is accepted, it can be repeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reply in sequence only: if players are (in order) A, B, C, &amp;amp;  D, and it's A's turn, he makes the offer, and B either accepts and holds out the asked for resource, or B rejects with a &quot;No.&quot; then C gets the same option. If C rejects, D gets the offer. If D rejects, it's dead. Offer something else or yield the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No &quot;counter offers&quot; - either they accept or reject the offer at hand. No discussion, no &quot;how many will you trade?&quot; It really speeds up play to disallow counter-offers, as it eliminates the whole negotiation mindset and the attendent waste of time for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No rejection of players: by eliminating trade preference, one forces trade to be quick and about getting what you need. This one should not be a permanent solution - half the strategy in real play is avoiding trade with the leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played with these restrictions in force. It REALLY speeds play, and reduces the ability to play favorites. I did so with a group of 6th graders, and ones with strong issues with each other at that. The No Rejection was a means of overcoming a couple of players racial biases... but it also changes the nature of play, hence later changing it to &quot;once you make an offer, you may only refuse to trade with someone if they have more VP than you.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T04:17:07.107" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T04:17:07.107" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5716" CreationDate="2011-12-19T23:14:50.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Concentrating on getting territory, rather than playing for influence.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pasting in the native speaker sources from the Sensei's answer (put there by Bill Spight I think):&#xA;辛い（からい）厚みよりも地をとることを意図すること。&#xA;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weblio.jp/content/&amp;#36763;&amp;#12356;?dictCode=IGOKH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weblio's Basic Go Dictionary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;厚みより地をとることを目的とすること。&#xA;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ffortune.net/play/go/yogo.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a different go dictionary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;厚みよりも実利（地）を重視していること。&#xA;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.katteyomi.info/igoword/ka.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;katteyomi go dictionary&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you google for &quot;地に辛い&quot; (ji ni karai, i.e. concentrating on taking territory) you get it described as a style of some players (Wikipedia mentions Hane Naoki, Iiyama Yuta, but also says this style of play is becoming more widespread/dominant recently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2148" LastEditorUserId="2148" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T08:31:54.720" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T08:31:54.720" CommentCount="2" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-19T23:14:50.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-20T09:00:21.053" Score="2" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens to Mythos, Trauma, and Keeper Action cards that have been used by a Keeper?&#xA;Are they discarded to a discard pile, and can these discards later return back to the game when they run out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2160" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T14:50:16.847" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T16:23:55.150" Title="What happens to Mythos, Trauma, Keeper Action cards that have been used once?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5782" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2011-12-20T09:24:02.207" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T09:24:02.207" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T09:24:02.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5783" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2011-12-20T09:24:02.207" Score="0" Body="Players review a game to find their mistakes and to investigate different variations of play, gaining further insight and understanding." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T12:33:59.763" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T12:33:59.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5816" CreationDate="2011-12-20T09:29:48.517" Score="14" ViewCount="2692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a go at Chess 960 the other day, but whereas I thought I might do better against the computer as it didn't have an opening book, in fact the opposite happened as it quickly found holes in my position. Are there any good opening strategies? Is it best to try to massage your position into classical chess positions or to try to build a fortress around the castled king?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T23:26:34.970" LastActivityDate="2019-11-04T17:22:40.977" Title="Opening strategies in Chess 960 (Fisher Random Chess)" Tags="|chess|openings|variants|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5484" CreationDate="2011-12-20T09:31:38.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;GoGrinder&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a cheap app for PC and mobile called &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoGrinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoGrinder&lt;/a&gt;. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gogrinder.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see also&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience as well as what I heard from others it's a useful piece of software at a very reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T14:42:03.573" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T14:42:03.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-20T13:21:54.927" Score="6" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came up with a card game variant, combining Texas Hold 'Em and Cribbage, with a friend.  You basically follow Hold 'Em play mechanics, and the best hand at showdown is the 5 card hand (2 hole cards + 3 board cards) with the highest cribbage score (counting runs, pairs, 15s, and 1 point for having any Jack.  4 and 5 flushes are allowed if both hole cards are used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran several Monte Carlo simulations and there are definitely advantages to certain starting hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What else do I need to think about/test to call this game final?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I determine the optimal betting structure, one that promotes skill over luck (limit/no limit/pot limit)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I best share my game with people who will play it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2175" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2020-02-15T16:57:33.783" LastActivityDate="2020-02-15T16:57:33.783" Title="What do I need to consider when creating a new card game variant?" Tags="|game-design|cribbage|poker|simulation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-12-20T13:48:56.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd tie the alt-wincon into other cards. Do I have a card that mean I get bonuses to creatures from putting large chunks into the graveyard? I'd like to mill for that. Do I have a control card that lets me put the players land on top of the deck, so I can then bin them and set him behind &lt;em&gt;whilst&lt;/em&gt; milling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, card with stats which are some function of cards in graveyards become more dangerous the more milling you do. Cards like: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247143&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mortivore&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247151&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lhurgoyf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some creatures gain bonuses or abilities when they attack: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=29890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guiltfeeder&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207876&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Necrotic ooze&lt;/a&gt;, or are cheaper to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270448&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avatar of Woe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other card will give you extra life, so you can keep milling: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=29907&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Invigorating Falls&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spoils of Evil&lt;/a&gt; (whichis more limited, but &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; give extra mana)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other times you can pull a card that lets you win earlier than they expect (which will surprise a few people with mammoth decks...), with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=135259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mortal Combat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, tie the player up with other effects and make milling a secondary bonus, that adds to your current plans. Otherwise it's just a one trick pony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T22:42:00.883" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T22:42:00.883" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2011-12-21T08:29:56.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5781" CreationDate="2011-12-20T16:23:55.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Mythos Cards (Page 16):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After playing a Mythos card, the keeper discards it to a faceup pile &#xA;  adjacent to the Mythos deck. If the Mythos deck runs out of cards, this &#xA;  discard pile is shuffled to create a new Mythos deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Trauma Cards (Page 25):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each investigator may have a maximum of one injury and one &#xA;  insanity at any given time. If he receives a second card of the &#xA;  same type, the original card is discarded first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, some injuries/insanities say discard immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under Component Limitations (Page 25):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Decks of Cards: If a deck of cards runs out, the players &#xA;  shuffle the discard pile to create a new deck. The only &#xA;  exception is the Event deck, which always ends the game after &#xA;  the last card is drawn (as listed on the card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Keeper actions (Page 10):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During this step, the keeper may resolve any number of these &#xA;  Keeper Action cards that he wishes (threat permitting). These &#xA;  actions are resolved one at a time by spending (discarding) the &#xA;  appropriate amount of threat (printed on the upper left corner of &#xA;  the Keeper Action card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Keeper Action cards don't get discarded ever, just the threat tokens. In fact, some keeper cards can be used multiple times in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T16:23:55.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="711" CreationDate="2011-12-20T16:34:02.783" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very similar is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indiegogo.com/World-in-Shades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World in Shades&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2176" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T16:34:02.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5786" CreationDate="2011-12-20T17:12:25.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll try to answer the two first questions :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What else do I need to think about/test to call this game final?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Try to keep it simple.&lt;/strong&gt; The more complicated your rules are, the less entertaining it will be. Remember this famous phrase about poker : &lt;em&gt;&quot;It takes five minutes to learn, but a lifetime to master.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally this can be applied to every popular board and card game. Introducing too many variables will also confuse the players, who will find it harder to think about the current hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't give too much informations.&lt;/strong&gt; If there are too many cards shown (like in 5-stud) the strategy will be easy, and boring. But if there are not enough cards shown (like in 5-draw) then there is no real strategy at all. Visible cards are not the only source of informations, there is also the number of common/private cards, the number of betting rounds, ... Texas Hold'em became popular because it achieves a very good balance here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I determine the optimal betting structure, one that promotes skill over luck (limit/no limit/pot limit)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just try them all. But I don't think you have to choose now. Your players will choose it for you, and the optimal betting structure will become the popular one. Think about Omaha, which was first played in no-limit. Now almost everyone plays Omaha in pot-limit, because there is a better skill/luck balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2158" LastEditorUserId="2158" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T17:28:30.103" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T17:28:30.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5927" CreationDate="2011-12-20T19:01:02.163" Score="3" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember a while ago having played a memory-like game which had blue plastic &quot;pawns&quot; which covered holes in a round cardboard sheet, while a second lower layer of cardboard was able to rotate underneath.  There were pictures on the lower layer which corresponded to the holes in the upper layer, and there were several different possible picture combinations.  What is that game called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="1444" LastEditDate="2011-12-20T19:12:15.310" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:28:02.610" Title="What is the memory-style game that has pawn-like tokens covering pictures?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4451" CreationDate="2011-12-20T19:01:24.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;standard&quot; rule is that action out of turn is only binding if the action remains unchanged (no betting or raising, only folding or calling) until that player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big blind's early raise of 150 is an out-of-turn action.  The current bet is still 400 until it gets to him.  If there is no change in action before the action gets to the big blind (everyone folds or calls), his action becomes binding, and the raise of 150 stands.  If an action occurs before play reaches the big blind (a player raises), the big blind may fold, keeping his last 150, or call.  If he had enough chips that he could re-raise, he would have that option as well (although then the raise of 150 would have been illegal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2175" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:01:24.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4571" CreationDate="2011-12-20T19:04:16.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checking behind is when you are last to act, and you check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2175" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:04:16.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2011-12-20T19:30:50.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few ideas, although overall I disagree with the premise of the question, as you'll see toward the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Unfair&quot; trades are the benefit of getting a resource other people want. I don't see how it's a problem. Just turn down the trade. As far as trading eating up time, one option would be to just put a 30-second limit on trading on each player's turn. I'll come back to the players who are too nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally wouldn't do the Monopoly trick, but anyone who's paying attention already knows what's floating around. There is very little secrecy to be had as far as what resources are in your hand, the main exception being resources gotten/lost by stealing. But that doesn't change the overall count of each resource between all the players' hands. I guess you could just remove the Monopoly cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocking is generally not a good strategy, at least not when it's done purely to hurt another player. You'll let the other player(s) jump ahead while you're giving the one a swirly. I do think some people are just too sensitive about this, though. For instance, I was recently blocked by a friend, but it was to keep me from placing a settlement where he wanted one, but didn't have the resources yet. If it's to benefit him, not to hurt me, I don't see the problem, but I've had people get really mad at me for doing similar things in the past. In any case, my wife won that game, so maybe even that was bad strategy on my friend's part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as some players being mean, or too nice, to some extent that's just part of playing with human beings. How far is too far is a social question, and you should handle it socially, not with rules. Again, I think it's appropriate to just ask, &quot;Are you making that play in an effort to win, or to hurt/help another player?&quot;, or even &quot;If you were in person X's shoes, would you feel this play was fair?&quot; That usually fixes the problems among my friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-12-20T19:30:50.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2011-12-20T21:56:56.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not an expert at 960 Chess, but the same basic rules apply: develop your pieces, take control of the center, and bring your king to safety as quickly as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2180" LastEditorUserId="2180" LastEditDate="2018-01-23T16:25:40.027" LastActivityDate="2018-01-23T16:25:40.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5799" CreationDate="2011-12-20T22:18:59.920" Score="7" ViewCount="1700" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like playing Battleship, and I would like to teach my nieces to play.  What's a good, simple strategy to teach someone new to Battleship?  In my particular case they are 8-12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T00:11:44.083" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T00:11:44.083" Title="How can I teach kids how to play Battleship?" Tags="|teaching|battleship|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-12-20T22:31:59.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with most alternate win conditions is that they are easy to remove. &quot;I win&quot; cards are usually answered by Counters, Terror, Disenchants, or a variety of other removal cards. Protecting the alternate win condition can often times be more important than playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mostly play casual games with a pretty good group of people, some of whom play in tournaments. I have 4 decks that usually depend on alternate win conditions and the main benefit I have seen is that people are less likely to have answers to alt win condition decks (if that win condition doesn't rely on just 1 card). It's fun to be playing toward a different goal than your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example one of the decks I play against on occasion has a few indestructible creatures, worship and an infinite life gain combo, and an infinite shuffle graveyard into library ability. This deck has an answer to most things except alt win conditions. If you don't have many decks and more than 1 depends on an alt win condition then the people around you will learn what to expect and can prepare themselves but if you have many decks made to pick from, or play it very rarely, it can throw people off balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andsoyoucode has basically said the above, I thought I could paint it in a different perspective. I glossed over some points because he covered them so well though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on one or two occasions I have thrown an alternate win condition into a deck with little or no ability to fulfill it. While this is a gambit, it has often thrown an opponent off balance in worrying about a card on the table that is an instant win condition that they completely miss what I am actually killing them with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that there are 3 basic types of good Magic Players, ones that build great decks, ones that play decks very well and ones that are just plain lucky. Alternate win conditions can fall outside of what a deck can handle, or force a player to adapt to something that they hadn't planned on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as tournament play goes I don't think I would every really take an alternate win condition to a serious tournament. I know a couple of years back though a fog deck that literally forced the other player to run out of cards first through stalemate did quite well in the tournament circuit. All that being said I have played my poison (sort of an alternate win condition) deck in a few 1.5 tournaments (all before infect existed) and for a deck that had zero rares and cost less than $25 buying the cards online as singles, it did rather well, performing most of its kills 4th turn, and stalling until then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with tournament decks is you only get the &quot;surprise&quot; effect on the first game and the second game they can sideboard in what they need that will probably be better able to handle your win condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I am at work now and will add links and resources when I get home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-12-22T18:12:31.253" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:12:31.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5800" CreationDate="2011-12-21T01:12:11.853" Score="4" ViewCount="1687" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have never drafted before and are planning to try it in the next few weeks. However, one thing we're not sure of is whether its better to mix cards from different sets or just have them all from one set (We're actually just using random cards selected from my copies of the sets and not boosters, but I don't think that will make a difference for this question). Currently I'm planning on having the first 2 rounds be all M11 and M12 mixed together and the last round be Innistrad, but I don't have any reasoning for doing it that way and am curious what others think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are drafts normally done with boosters only from one set, or from different sets? Why are they done this way? If multiple different sets are used, should the packs from that each set be all used in one round or used one in each round (1 round of all Innistrad packs vs. at least 1 pack of Innistrad mixed in each round with whatever the other packs are)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T21:02:28.543" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T20:48:36.687" Title="What are the Pros and Cons of using cards from multiple different sets when drafting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5796" CreationDate="2011-12-21T01:44:26.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Teach them two things: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't let your ships touch each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't let your ships touch the sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing that, no matter where a ship is hit, there are at least two adjacent places to target that will be misses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Children less familiar with spatial concepts might take longer to place their ships, but there's also a lot of flexibility given those rules, so one niece could put all her ships facing the same direction while another one could have them alternating back and forth across the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be useful to remember that there is a difference between teaching the game itself and teaching the game as you or someone else might play it. There will be time to teach them more specific strategies later if they become interested in the game and also show interest in strategic thinking; with this in mind, pay attention to how they respond to what you teach. If one niece doesn't seem interested in planning, let her put her ships where she likes. If another one questions you right away as you explain how to set up your ships &amp;ndash; &quot;But if I do that, you'll know what I'm doing!&quot; &amp;ndash; then you could probably go straight into more advanced techniques with her. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2011-12-21T13:14:02.620" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T13:14:02.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2011-12-21T02:10:10.993" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally drafts are restricted to a single &lt;strong&gt;block&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sanctioned drafting (with sealed boosters), the distribution looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core set, the first set of a block, or a &quot;big third set&quot; like Rise of the Eldrazi or Avacyn Restored: three boosters from the same set, e.g. M12 / M12 / M12.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second set of a block: one booster from the new set, two from the first set (which is bigger), e.g. Dark Ascension / Innistrad / Innistrad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The (small) third set of a block: one booster from the third set, one from the secondset, one from the first set, e.g. New Phyrexia / Mirrodin Beseiged / Scars of Mirrodin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that, before Scars block, the pack order was reversed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the list above, the size of the potential card pool will vary. M12 / M12 / M12 has around 250 possible cards. NP / MB / SOM is closer to 600. Thar larger card pool is trickier for players to learn (folks who play regularly will learn it incrementally, as new sets are introduced). I've heard of triple small-set drafts (e.g. Worldwake or Eventide), but many players say that these have very stilted environments -- both because the card mix is to small and because they were never designed to be drafted stand-alone, so a lot of the card pool assumes you'll have cards from the other set to round out your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main advantage of staying within a block is that &lt;strong&gt;block themes provide players with a reference point for making draft choices.&lt;/strong&gt; Stepping outside of a single block presents players with additional challenges in evaluating cards against the &quot;metagame&quot; of the total card pool. This may be desirable if you're specifically looking to force players to think on their feet in an unfamiliar situation, but novice drafters have enough to worry about without the extra complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, the cards in a block are all designed to work together (in draft more so than anywhere else, actually -- only some of the cards in each set are intended to be &quot;Constructed-worthy&quot;). When you stray from that structure, you risk watering down the archetypes built into a set / block. For example, M12 has a lot of bloodthirst creatures in it. Red and black, the two colors with the highest concentration of bloodthirst, have access to common-level &quot;enablers&quot; to make bloodthirst decks run smoother: Goblin Fireslinger and Tormented Soul. Mixing up M12 and M11 cards would make it more difficult to draft bloodthirst due to the lower probability of finding these cards (although you might be able to compensate with M11 cards like Lightning Bolt and Prodigal Pyromancer). It's not to say that you can't break up blocks, but ideally you should have a pretty good reason for doing so. In particular, watch for sets with &quot;parastic&quot; mechanics like Kamigawa's &lt;em&gt;soulshift&lt;/em&gt; -- diluting the card pool with cards from another set will greatly weaken these cards, making for a wonky and unbalanced drafting environment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5265/running-a-mtg-draft-without-actually-having-to-buy-new-boosters-for-each-player&quot;&gt;in this answer&lt;/a&gt;, I don't think absolute pack-for-pack correctness is super important in a DIY draft, because I don't like going into pack 2 knowing you're absolutely &quot;cut off&quot; from any more set 3 if you didn't draft them in pack 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T00:44:15.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5796" CreationDate="2011-12-21T06:42:27.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of finding ships, instead of placing them, try teaching the concept of sub-dividing spaces, diagonally.   Start with a simple X shape on the board, then proceed to making other angular lines within the shapes.  You can use the trick of &quot;try to place a ship inside this pattern and see how hard it is&quot; to prove the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T06:42:27.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5811" CreationDate="2011-12-21T12:00:31.040" Score="9" ViewCount="4121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a casual (anything goes, kitchen-table) deck for my friend, out of our combined pool of cards, which will have 3+ colours (atm it's three). She's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Vorthos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vorthos&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timmy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timmy&lt;/a&gt;. She often builds her own deck out of the biggest/prettiest cards, but suffers/is frustrated when she plays against control style. I'm making it Red/Green/Blue, with as many elves/merfolk/faeries as possible for flavour reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general question, &lt;strong&gt;how do you stop a deck with 3+ colours from being unfocused&lt;/strong&gt;? That is to say, focus on a successful tactic (engines, brute force, lots of little creatures etc) whilst spanning the three colours. You need to juggle 3 types of land, which can end some games too early through having to mulligan/suffer the consequences. &lt;strong&gt;How can an aggro style, also be anti-control&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry if this question is too localized/general. I'm really struggling to get my request into a SX style, but I do want a list of &lt;em&gt;correct practices&lt;/em&gt; in making this deck, without a long list of &lt;em&gt;good cards&lt;/em&gt;; chances are I won't have them, and can't afford to buy any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2019-09-04T08:05:59.140" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T08:05:59.140" Title="How to build a multi-colour aggro deck to be more effective against control" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:19:30.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using the Red-Green-Blue &quot;wedge&quot; and you're playing &quot;casual,&quot; you might find some use in one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/wizards-reveals-all-five-commander-decks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Commander decks produced by Wizards of the Coast&lt;/a&gt;: the &quot;Mirror Mastery&quot; deck, in particular. It includes a number of tools to help smooth out the mana in a deck with three colors — multi-lands and artifact mana sources among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:19:30.263" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:29:50.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the subject of managing &quot;focus&quot; (i.e. color distribution), what you'll really need to worry about is lands.  With three colors, mana fixing can become incredibly important.  You'll want to play dual and tri-color lands and maybe some mana-generating creatures (what's a multicolor green deck without &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221896&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;?) or &quot;mana rocks&quot; (mana-generating artifacts), to lessen your changes of getting mana screwed.  On that same note, I'd recommend a lot of the hybrid-color spells from the Ravnica and Shadowmoor blocks - they're fairly versatile and see quite a bit of play (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141976&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kitchen Finks&lt;/a&gt;, probably not for your deck but just as an example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the better resources I've found for mana fixing is intended for Commander, but is great for deckbuilding of any kind (link is noncommercial, and I am not affiliated in any way): &lt;a href=&quot;http://mcgees.org/commander-app/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;McGee's Commander App&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondarily, there's the issue of &quot;how can aggro be anti-control.&quot;  The answer to that question is and always has been speed.  You're racing to see what happens first - you winning, or the control deck hitting its stride (which usually means a loss for you).  There's always certain cards that are going to help (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241990&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autumn's Veil&lt;/a&gt; - in fact, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5714/strategies-against-counterspell-decks/5720#5720&quot;&gt;What are good strategies against counterspell decks?&lt;/a&gt; for specifically counter hate, though it's specific to Standard) - try to find the right balance of speed to evasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd look around for what other RUG aggro decks are doing - you'll see some commonly-run cards (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152549&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vendilion Clique&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=139429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spellstutter Sprite&lt;/a&gt;, etc.). It really depends on how competitive (read: expensive) you want this to be.  I'd also recommend tossing in &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kird Ape&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=97112&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trygon Predator&lt;/a&gt;, and/or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=185053&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bloodbraid Elf&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, running blue usually means running counters.  In Vintage this means you've got the fun stuff (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159092&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, actual &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202437&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) - it's also an answer to control, but be careful not to accidentally build a slower deck that ends up in the midrange (between aggro and control).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T14:46:50.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4943" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:51:21.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it, this depends on your overall strategy in the pacific theater. If your goal is to win by preventing your opponents from growing, then yes, this would make sense as it would most certainly stymie the growth of America, even if you do have to make a little sacrifice, and even if it is only for a turn or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:51:21.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5634" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:54:08.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is a normal situation.  It isn't very fun, sure, but it is a normal one.  I've had it happen several times and each time I swear off playing this scenario until I find a new group of victi-- friends who have not yet experienced my wra-- version of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I had a situation where one of my players simply wanted to &quot;try and leave to see what happens&quot;.  Everyone else followed.  Game over in the first couple of turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:54:08.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5327" CreationDate="2011-12-21T15:57:02.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had this problem in the past as well, and the best solution that me and my friends have come up with is to play the game less like the rules say, and more like Betrayal At the House on the Hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is to say, when moving, you only get to explore until you have an encounter.  This could be fighting a monster or a trap or some such, but once you've had to resolve anything that isn't just drawing a card, you stop and the next person's turn begins. The downside is that your dungeon doesn't grow as fast, but the upside is you don't end up with each person having to go through the combat scenario 3 times each turn, and you'd be amazed how much that speeds things up (because you don't have as many people trying to play modifier cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2187" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T15:57:02.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2011-12-21T17:48:30.510" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've stated that your card pool is limited, and your ability to buy more cards is even more so.  This restricts specific card advice significantly, so I'm going to give some general advice on the process of tuning the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running a 3 color deck is difficult&lt;/strong&gt;, as you've already noticed.  Without some specialized cards which are in many cases quite expensive to obtain, it is hard to be competitive.  Here's what I would do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ensure the deck is 60 cards, you can go a little higher if you need to.  In no case should you be anywhere near 80+ cards though!  The more cards you add, the more likely you are to get some really weird mana fluctuations.  It's also difficult to sufficiently randomize a larger deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you have enough land!  For a 3 color deck, I'd want probably 24 land and a couple mana producers.  Upwards of 26 land if you have no other mana producers (artifacts/birds of paradise) to include.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proxy some dual-lands.  Take 4 swamps and write &quot;Red/Green&quot; on them, take 4 plains and write &quot;green/blue&quot;.  They are land that can generate either color as necessary (but only 1 mana a turn from each land).  When you are playing with friends, I think a little proxying is fine, but be sure to let them know about it before hand.  Encourage them to try out a few cool old cards as well!  Just because you didn't spend $2000 in 1996 on cards doesn't mean you shouldn't experience those cards every so often.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you play the new tuned/proxied deck try to figure out which colors are most important.  Shift things around to try to favor 2 colors, focus the third color on being the &quot;finishing&quot; color.  This will allow you to decrease the mana supply for that third color and will make your deck run smoother.  An example would be just including a few mountains and a couple fireballs.  In other words, try to move your color mix from 40%/30%/30% to 40%/40%/20% or even 50%/40$/10%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-12-21T17:48:30.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5859" CreationDate="2011-12-21T20:58:33.777" Score="49" ViewCount="122303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had any experience with playing Munchkin with 2 players?  If so, what variant/house rules do you play with, and how do you feel the experience compares to 3+ player Munchkin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2069" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T01:07:15.190" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T03:08:31.793" Title="Munchkin as a two player game" Tags="|house-rules|munchkin|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2011-12-22T18:12:22.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly there isn't that big a change, other than there's a lot less people trying to screw you over.  You can play Munchkin with 2 players just fine, it's just not quite as much fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2011-12-22T18:12:22.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5718" CreationDate="2011-12-23T03:37:36.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My impression is more that the emphasis is on &lt;em&gt;reading&lt;/em&gt; (or &lt;em&gt;counting&lt;/em&gt;) the endgame, rather than &lt;em&gt;memorizing&lt;/em&gt; the endgame.  Certainly in that process you see some positions so frequently  that you basically memorize how they are going to fall out, but this isn't quite the same thing as deliberately setting out to memorize the position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially the case because of both endgame tesuji/maek and because even fairly straightforward sequences can be interrupted due to the surrounding stones or thanks to the value of sente. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T03:37:36.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-12-23T03:49:43.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to memorize games as a fairly large staple of my studies. Some general points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The position at any point is approximately even.  A &quot;losing move&quot; to a professional–one that everyone agrees is bad–is still probably close enough to even for anyone but a high-level dan.  If you are at that point or getting close to it, be sure to look up the commentaries if there are in and read through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Take your time on each move.  Analyze how you would move, see how the professional moves, and analyze why the professional might have moved there.  It is oft repeated that you are about 3-4 stones stronger when you study, so take advantage of that and try to see as much as you can. Even if you are wrong, the process of thinking about it is very valuable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Start with ten moves at a time and see if you can increase it over time.  So put down ten moves, then reset.  When I would do it I would go back to a blank board every ten moves and try to play back to the current point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Replay your own games from memory immediately after you play them.  If you played a person at a club, see if you can get them to go with you.  Memorizing pro games is training your pattern memory, and replaying through your own games after you've played them is excellent practice here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) During the endgame try to count the value of each move.  This is an easy time to do that, and it is excellent practice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T03:49:43.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5784" CreationDate="2011-12-23T10:31:30.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Silman's book &lt;em&gt;How to reassess your chess&lt;/em&gt;, it's said that it's the position which tell us what moves we have to play. I guess in 960 chess, more than in classical chess, the most important move is the first (maybe it would be better to take more time before playing it, except in a fast game). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the initial position are symmetrical, Whites have an advantage which may be great in function of the initial position. So first look at the weaknesses of the opponent's and yours position (for example, in the classical position, f7 (respectively f2) is weak), if you bishops (which are necessary in square of different colors) already attack a weak square after moving a pawn, but overall if your king is safe. If there is a square which is only protected by the king, maybe it would be better to defend it quickly, or if you have Whites, try to attack it or at least put pressure on the Blacks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2075" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T10:31:30.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5798" CreationDate="2011-12-23T20:48:36.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Alex P's answer is fantastic and explains in great detail why competitive drafting is always from the same block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a friendly game that is less competitive the things you need to consider all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As he said, it will affect the metagame.  Card drafting guides and strategies built up for drafting cards will be somewhat less applicable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards are meant specifically to work with a certain type of card, and if that type is rare, then those cards might be less valuable (many cards from the kamigawa block assumed a spirit-rich environment...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the flip side, some cards may not have a good answer since they were relying on certain things in the block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Different blocks sometimes have somewhat different power levels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether those things are advantages or disadvantages depends partially on your point of view, particularly the way it will affect the metagame.  If I am someone who knows how to play but I haven't studied the current metagame, I might for instance prefer some weird mix of blocks so that effectively no one has studied the metagame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if I am preparing for competition I might not want anything from outside the current metagame, much less a weird mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is that blocks were designed intentionally to be cohesive.  Breaking that cohesion isn't necessarily good or bad, but it will make the game more random in some ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2011-12-23T20:48:36.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-23T22:30:08.747" Score="4" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the game of Go with Japanese Ko rules is, like most such games, &lt;a href=&quot;http://groups.csail.mit.edu/mac/users/bob/hearn-thesis-final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EXPTIME-Complete&lt;/a&gt;, but that ladders are &lt;a href=&quot;http://homepages.cwi.nl/~tromp/lad.ps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PSPACE-Complete&lt;/a&gt; and that Go endgames have been analyzed independently as being &lt;a href=&quot;http://library.msri.org/books/Book42/files/wolfe.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PSPACE-Hard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has any such research been done into Chess endgames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T16:25:26.913" Title="Chess (and variations) Endgame Complexity" Tags="|go|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-23T22:38:00.437" Score="7" ViewCount="4583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't work this one out. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I declare a creature attacking one of my opponents (who's on 5 life). Before he/she declares blockers another player casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=135262&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beacon of Destruction&lt;/a&gt; (or similar), reducing his/her life to 0. They would then leave the game, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to my attacking creature, does it still attack the player who is no longer there,  or is it no longer attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a similar situation, if my opponent has a planeswalker and I attack it, if that planeswalker is destroyed or exiled before it gets to combat damage what happens with the attacking creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the damage is still dealt to the player/planeswalker no longer there and therefore doesn't do anything except tap the creature, but I'm not sure about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2199" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T03:02:40.077" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T03:02:40.077" Title="In multiplayer, what happens if a player you're attacking dies before combat damage is dealt?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5820" CreationDate="2011-12-24T06:41:07.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players leave the game as a state based effect, the next time any player would receive priority if their life total is zero or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3b If a player’s life total is 0 or less, he or she loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example, after you declared your creatures as attackers (and made all necessary costs associated with declaring them as attackers...usually this is is just tapping the creatures), there is a chance for all players to cast instants or use activated abilities, and one of the other players cast BoD. Everyone once again has a chance to react to BoD, but if no one does, BoD resolves, and then the active player (you) receive priority. At this point, the opponent leaves the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your attacking creature remains an attacking creature until the end of your combat phase.&#xA;In a non MP game, there would be no difference. Attacking creatures remain attacking creatures until the end of the combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1j Each chosen creature still controlled by the active player becomes an attacking creature. It remains an attacking creature until it’s removed from combat or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. See rule 506.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage is never dealt to nonexistent players/creatures/planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4d If combat damage would be assigned to a player who has left the game, that damage simply isn’t assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1b An unblocked creature assigns its combat damage to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking. If it isn’t currently attacking anything (if, for example, it was attacking a planeswalker that has left the battlefield), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T15:00:00.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5178" CreationDate="2011-12-24T09:03:18.813" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally I wouldn't like to answer my own question, but I have played a lot of online Agricola since posting this one, with the specific goal of taking as little wood as possible, so I hopefully have some interesting new information to provide by now...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is a really hard commodity to ignore in Agricola, just because it's so versatile.  You need wood for all the below things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to have space to grow your family quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to grow your house to a good size so you can get big points from removation at the end of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to build early stables and/or fences to pursue the animal breeding strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to build a giant pasture in the late game to avoid losing big points from unused spaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;many, many good Minor Improvements require wood, as does the Well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes down to it, wood just does more than anything else in this game, so much so that I think it's a bit of an insult that the Joinery also exists: wood does all of this AND you can get bonus points from having a surplus of it too?  (Not that anyone ever buys the Joinery, because in practice there's always something else useful you can do with your wood.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the light of all this, how can you do well in Agricola without wood?  Well, here's the big things you can do without it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a lot of food&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the efficient food-getting strategies in Agricola requires a single piece of wood.  And while food-gathering is not an end in itself, it does mean that if your opponent is hogging the wood space, you have every opportunity to cut them off from a good food engine, specifically by taking all the clay for the first half of the game.  When your opponent has no good way of feeding his family (Fishing and Day Labourer don't count), then it's academic that he &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; grow his family - fear of Begging cards may mean he just can't afford to.  Lack of a steady supply of food also limits the number of Occupation cards he can realistically play - after the first they do start inhibiting the ability of a food-poor player to feed his family!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So would I recommend a food-denial strategy as a counter to a player who remorselessly goes after the wood?  Yes and no.  In the first half of the game you can definitely hold your own against the wood-mad player by trying to starve them.  Unfortunately, you have to be an actually terrible player to stumble blindly into a situation where you can't avoid getting Begging cards; so generally I'd say the food-denial strategy can only contain, not crush, an opponent.  It's not hard, though, to engineer a situation where you have a Fireplace, some grain fields and maybe an Oven too and your opponent has nothing but a lot of wood and a heavy reliance on Fishing and Day Labourer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that I don't think this position is sustainable all the way to the end of the game.  You can't cut an opponent off from all avenues indefinitely.  I had a great game where opponent dogmatically took all the wood and I dogmatically took all the reed, every time.  Sadly he finished a few points ahead of me: the sad fact is that, even once I buy the Basketmaker's Workshop, a gigantic pile of reed is only worth 5 points and some food, while a gigantic pile of wood enables, at the very least, the building of a giant pasture that uses up all the empty space in your farmyard and ends up being worth 10+ victory points.  Plus, to add insult to injury, they probably go on to buy the stupid Joinery and totally crush you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, my ultimate conclusion is that, &lt;strong&gt;no, it's not possible to win Agricola without ever taking wood&lt;/strong&gt;.  Not without some ridiculous combination of Occupations and Minor Improvements, at any rate.  There are good ways to attack the players who take wood aggressively at the start of the game, but once you've done this you'll want to make a strategic U-turn and compete for it aggressively yourself starting from about round 7 or 8.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wood is just too useful for too many things, and if you've played a very miserly, explosive-growth-impeding game, you still need 12 wood at the end to build a 3x3 pasture and save yourself from losing double figures of points at the end.  What's the alternative - ploughing 9 fields?  I don't think so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2017-05-19T20:35:05.753" LastActivityDate="2017-05-19T20:35:05.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5819" CreationDate="2011-12-24T16:25:26.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a very large, but only finite number of possible chess games. This is a consequence of the 50 move rule, which limits the maximum theoretical number of moves to about 5000 (although in real life, chess games over 100 moves are extremely rare). To see this, we know that 50 moves without a pawn move is a draw. There are 16 pawns, and each pawn can move 6 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have 50 * (16 * 6 + 1) + 1 = 4851 moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the complexity of chess is actually O(1), because &lt;em&gt;in theory&lt;/em&gt; with a big enough lookup table, you could find the answer to any chess position immediately. This gives rise to the amusing idea, first &lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.computerhistory.org/projects/chess/related_materials/text/2-0%20and%202-1.Programming_a_computer_for_playing_chess.shannon/2-0%20and%202-1.Programming_a_computer_for_playing_chess.shannon.062303002.pdf&quot;&gt;described by Shannon&lt;/a&gt;, of a game between two perfect players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A game between two such mental giants, Mr. A and Mr. B, would proceed&#xA;  as follows. They sit down at the chessboard, draw the colours, and&#xA;  then survey the pieces for a moment. Then either: -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1)Mr. A says, &quot;I resign&quot; or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(2)Mr. B says, &quot;I resign&quot; or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(3)Mr. A says, &quot;I offer a draw,&quot; and Mr. B replies, &quot;I accept.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the size of that lookup table is completely impractical (larger than the number of atoms in the observable universe), but your question asked about computational complexity, not practicality!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It thus follows that all chess endgames are also O(1). Chess positions with up to 6 pieces have been &lt;a href=&quot;http://rjlipton.wordpress.com/2010/05/12/can-we-solve-chess-one-day/&quot;&gt;perfectly solved&lt;/a&gt;, and lookup tables constructed in this way. However the size grows rapidly; the implemented 6-piece database is around 7GB, and the 7-piece database is estimated at 1.2TB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the constraints on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threefold_repetition&quot;&gt;threefold repetition&lt;/a&gt; are ignored, then chess becomes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0022000083900302&quot;&gt;PSPACE-hard&lt;/a&gt;. If you're also willing to throw away the 50 move rule, then chess becomes &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0097316581900169&quot;&gt;EXPTIME-hard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T16:25:26.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-24T17:46:38.503" Score="19" ViewCount="12849" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, after drawing one of the five cards from the face up train cards, and after replacing that card, the second card is drawn from the top of the deck and is a locomotive card, is the player allowed to keep that card?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if both cards are drawn from the the top of the stack and the second card is a locomotive card, is the player allowed to keep that card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2202" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-06-18T11:58:00.017" LastActivityDate="2020-11-04T05:05:16.170" Title="What are the restrictions on picking up locomotives?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2011-12-24T18:14:21.713" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule is that if a card is drawn without looking at it, then it doesn't matter whether it's a locomotive or not - you get to keep it regardless. So the answer to both your scenarios is &quot;yes&quot;. In fact, if you're really lucky, it's possible to draw two locomotives from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are considering picking up a visible locomotive (i.e. one present in the five face up cards), then different rules apply. You can only pick a face up locomotive if it is the first and only card you pick up. So if you pick another card, either face up or from the stack, then you cannot pick up a face up locomotive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T18:14:21.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2011-12-24T18:14:33.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - just as if the first card drawn from the top of the (face-down) deck is a locomotive card, the player still gets to draw a second (which may also be a locomotive!).  The key point here is that cards drawn from the deck rather than from the face-up cards are &lt;em&gt;private&lt;/em&gt;; they're information that you don't have to share with other players, so in particular you don't need to let them know whether you've picked up a locomotive card or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T18:14:33.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5656" CreationDate="2011-12-24T19:38:15.837" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there's a very simple answer to this question, which perhaps hasn't been concisely stated yet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most people's decks are tuned to beat decks trying to win in the &quot;normal&quot; way.  If your deck is trying to win in an unusual way, many decks will not have any good answer to that.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you're playing a Battle of Wits deck.  A lot of decks won't be packing sufficient enchantment removal to reliably take out Battle of Wits when you cast it - &lt;em&gt;because, in general, enchantment spot removal is not a high priority for winning games of magic&lt;/em&gt;.  Which means that, assuming you can survive long enough to find and cast your key card, you win easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or suppose you're playing a deck which has an effective way to gain infinite life.  A lot of decks will be trying to win via the standard route, of dealing 20 damage very fast.  If you can simply gain life faster than they can deal with it, their &lt;em&gt;finely-tuned&lt;/em&gt; damage dealing deck is almost certain to have no plan B for dealing with your unusual game plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to other answers to this question, I don't think &quot;the element of surprise&quot; is a key feature to the effectiveness of &quot;alternate win condition&quot; decks... at least not in the sense of your opponent going &quot;huh? What's this deck trying to do, I don't understand...?!&quot;.  I think it's a metagame question, pure and simple.  No deck, even after sideboarding, can have effective answers to every other possible deck in the game of Magic.  As such, sensible deckbuilders will build their deck planning to win against &lt;em&gt;the decks they are most expecting to face&lt;/em&gt;.  Your opponent may have worked out exactly what your alternate win condition is inside of the first 5 minutes of your match; but that doesn't mean they will have a good way of dealing with it in either their maindeck or their sideboard.  And you may be able to steal quite a few wins against supposedly &quot;better&quot; decks that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never underestimate the power of the metagame.  See for instance the recent World Championships, where Team Channel Fireball brought a Tempered Steel deck that was generally considered to be unplayable because &quot;it rolls over and dies as soon as anyone plays Slagstorm&quot; [or something like that, I'm relying on my memory here].  But as it happened none of the &quot;good&quot; decks at that tournament were packing Slagstorm, and so TCF put 4 players into the top 8 with an identical &quot;B-list&quot; deck.  I don't think you can say the principle of playing to win not just the game but the metagame isn't sound!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T19:38:15.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-24T21:15:29.000" Score="5" ViewCount="1431" Body="&lt;p&gt;My drafting group has a few hardcore players like me who have been playing magic for a while. We've memorized almost all the commons and uncommons in the sets we're drafting (usually Innistrad or 2012), know a lot about how to win at drafts, know the good archetypes, and have a bit more deck-building experience compared to some of the other people we'd like to add to the group. The new people know the mechanics of the game and have played enough to know how to build a decent deck, but I'm worried that the rest of us will have a significant advantage that takes away from everyone's fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What handicaps can be used when drafting that give a weaker player about an equal chance at winning while removing as little of the fun as possible? Obviously we'll coach them a bit about the techniques we've used that have been effective, but until they're completely up to speed I don't want them to be annihilated and quit. Should we give them a handicap during the actual draft, like an extra few picks from another booster after the draft is over, or a handicap during the actual games? What handicapping techniques have you used that work well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T13:41:10.803" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T04:46:38.613" Title="What's a good handicap for a less experienced player in an MTG Draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|house-rules|mtg-drafting|handicap|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5824" CreationDate="2011-12-24T21:22:21.017" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies by which Ticket To Ride game you're playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In USA, Europe, and Asia, you may do any of the following on your turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a face-up locomotive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw two face-up non-locomotive card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw two cards off the deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw one face-up non-locomotive and one card off the deck, in either order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Switzerland and Nordic Countries: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw two face-up cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw two cards off the deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw one face-up card and one card off the deck, in either order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference has a lot to do with how they are used - the Switzerland and Nordic rules don't allow engines to be used for plain routes, only for tunnels and ferries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-24T21:22:21.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-25T10:52:42.193" Score="4" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm prototyping a game, but I'm not very schooled on board games. I'm looking for a list of game mechanics so that I can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Describe my game in terms of mechanics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find other uses of the mechanics to learn from&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick and choose what mechanics I want to have in my game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If there are any books about this sort of thing it would be freaking awesome!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to some other questions, but with some differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2682&quot;&gt;What set of attributes can be used to describe, compare and contrast various board games?&lt;/a&gt; - but I need only the mechanics, not whether it is easy to carry etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1374/board-game-mechanics&quot;&gt;Board Game Mechanics&lt;/a&gt; - nice question, but the answers with examples of games people likes, are not very helpful (I don't have access to the games or the time to understand them all).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2205" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2017-08-15T20:13:51.843" Title="Where can I find examples of Game Mechanics?" Tags="|mechanics|prototyping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-08-13T01:35:20.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5831" CreationDate="2011-12-25T11:15:10.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably should go looking at the various mechanic lists on boardgamegeek.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine the various reviews, and find where people talke about the mechanics, as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a concentrated resource for doing exactly the kind of research you probably should be doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-25T11:15:10.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-26T04:39:31.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be contrarian: in my experience, if you're adding a sufficient number of new people (which it sounds like is the case here), I'd encourage not handicapping them at all.  My recommendation would actually be to start not with drafting but with some form of sealed-deck play (maybe a simple three-round league or the like), so that the new players have fewer decisions to make and can learn what the core elements of a limited deck are.  Once they understand the essentials of limited then just let them loose on a draft - the experienced players may well run the table, but the newer players should still be able to have interesting games with the experienced drafters and excellent games among each other (this is why you need a sufficient number of new people), and IMHO the (slightly) 'deep-end' approach (along with some measure of coaching, post-draft analysis, etc) is the best way to get truly interested players motivated to get better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One plausible alternative, though, that might be worth looking at is some form of team draft/sealed, where each of the new players is paired with a more experienced player that they can directly watch, talk with, and learn from; 2HG is a tough format to draft (as opposed to playing sealed with), but it's a great and underutilized choice for this sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T04:39:31.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5842" CreationDate="2011-12-26T05:42:19.630" Score="10" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is one noble left in line and you play &quot;fled to England&quot; to discard it (thus, ending the day) do you collect a noble from the new day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-26T08:13:50.927" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T17:40:18.803" Title="Do you still collect a noble if the day ends?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5838" CreationDate="2011-12-26T06:48:28.493" Score="9" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;New Rule &quot;Draw 4&quot; is in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One opponent changes the Goal to &quot;10 cards in hand&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have six cards in my hand. It's my turn and I draw four cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contend that the game is now over, as I have met the winning condition. (I don't have any Creepers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another opponent says &quot;no, you have to finish your turn&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how he can be right. For one thing you can win on someone else's turn assuming you have the winning combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user21" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T07:38:58.520" Title="When is the winning condition checked in Fluxx?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5837" CreationDate="2011-12-26T07:38:58.520" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You won.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Fluxx &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/Rules3.0.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winning the Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game continues until one player meets the conditions of the current Goal. That player wins immediately, regardless of whose turn it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word 'immediately' doesn't match with what your opponent was trying to tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T07:38:58.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5836" CreationDate="2011-12-26T07:56:09.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recollection is that when the day ends, the current players turn is over.  The next player is the player to the left of the person who started the last day.  That player will fill the line with nobles and take their full turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I cannot locate my copy right now and the rules don't appear to be online, so I can't give you a direct rules citation at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T07:56:09.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5949" CreationDate="2011-12-26T08:35:30.980" Score="4" ViewCount="2095" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Risk revised edition rules have a Major Reward that grants the defender a bonus defense die. This die will replace the lowest defender's die rolled (unless the bonus die is the lowest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the expected troop losses for the Attackers and Defenders when the Attacker attacks with 3 troops, and you choose to roll a single Defense die and your bonus Defense die versus when you roll two Defense dice and your bonus Defense die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have worked out the math for the single Defense die plus bonus Defense die. This is the easiest calculation, because we only care about the highest die rolled for the attacker (out of 216 possibilites), and the highest die rolled for the defender (out of 36 possibilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            |Defender's high die and odds (1-6) |&#xA;+-----------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;|           | 1/36| 3/36| 5/36| 7/36| 9/36|11/36|36/36|&#xA;+Attacker's +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;|   High Die| (1) | (2) | (3) | (4) | (5) | (6) ||Wins|Loss|              |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;|  1/216|(1)|   1 |   3 |   5 |   7 |   9 |  11 ||  36|   0|   36 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;|  7/216|(2)|   7#|  21 |  35 |  49 |  63 |  77 || 245|   7|  252 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;| 19/216|(3)|  19#|  57#|  95 | 133 | 171 | 209 || 608|  76|  684 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;| 37/216|(4)|  37#| 111#| 185#| 259 | 333 | 407 || 999| 333| 1332 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;| 61/216|(5)|  61#| 183#| 305#| 427#| 549 | 671 ||1220| 976| 2196 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;| 91/216|(6)|  91#| 273#| 455#| 637#| 819#|1001 ||1001|2275| 3276 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+---+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----++----+----+--------------+&#xA;|216/216|                                       ||4109|3667| 7776 of 7776 |&#xA;+-------+                                       ++----+----+--------------+&#xA;Defender Wins 4109/7776 = 0.52842, expected losses per attack 0.47158 &#xA;Attacker Wins 3667/7776 = 0.47158, expected losses per attack 0.52842&#xA;Ratio of Defender Losses/Attacker Losses = 0.892%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 3 Attacker dice versus the 2 Defender dice plus 1 bonus dice, both players throw away their lowest die. So, all that is needed to calculate the losses is to calculate the chances of each two highest die rolls from three dice (out of 216), and then figure out the losses (although, the results are a little more complicated because you have a Win/Loss/Tie (each lose 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Defender Wins 0.47614, and ties 0.29308, expected losses 0.75463 troops&#xA;Attacker Wins 0.23077, and ties 0.29308, expected losses 1.24537 troops&#xA;Ratio of Defender Losses/Attacker Losses = 0.606&#xA;I will fill in the table later, but can anyone check my results?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T12:04:40.570" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T02:22:17.440" Title="Risk (revised edition 2008): Is it better to roll 1 or 2 Defense dice with the Bonus Defense die Major Reward?" Tags="|risk|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-26T17:13:25.240" Score="5" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the coins that are on your Pirate Ship Mat need to disappear (go back to the coin pile) when you opt to use them in your buy? Or do they stay there for the entire game, being used whenever you have the Pirate Ship card come up and opt to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2210" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T17:49:42.427" Title="Pirate Ship, Dominion Seaside" Tags="|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5836" CreationDate="2011-12-26T17:40:18.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur with Pat's answer - I have my copy of the rules in front of me, so can quote chapter and verse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play continues in this manner until there are no nobles left in line&#xA;  at the start of someone's turn.  That day is then over and a new day&#xA;  begins. ... The player to the left of the person who started the&#xA;  previous day is the first player for the new day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, emptying the line of nobles &lt;strong&gt;does not end the day&lt;/strong&gt;, nor is the line immediately refilled with nobles.  The day ends at the start of the next player's turn, and as Pat says, a new player will be selected to be start player and thus the first to collect a noble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T17:40:18.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5841" CreationDate="2011-12-26T17:49:42.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't lose the Coin tokens on your Pirate Ship Mat when you use them in your buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the clue is in the fact that the rules refers to them as &quot;Coin tokens&quot;, not just &quot;Coins&quot;.  Confusion between them and coins is understandable, but basically they're something completely different: the tokens only serve as a reminder of how many Coins you receive every time you play a Pirate Ship and choose its second option.  Coin tokens do give you Coins, but they are not Coins themselves and are not expended in the same way as Coins!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T17:49:42.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5847" CreationDate="2011-12-26T18:51:14.907" Score="5" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Guillotine, the rules state that the cards should be &quot;face up&quot;. But is it ok to stack the nobles on top of each other into piles? Technically, they are still face up, but the points are not visible. Or perhaps the point value should be visible at all times as to avoid confusion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the real question is, should other players be able to &quot;count&quot; your points at all times, or is it ok to make it harder for them to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T22:03:27.167" Title="Guillotine: Face up or visible?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5805" CreationDate="2011-12-26T19:50:42.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pat and Ian have covered the three-color angle pretty thoroughly, so this &#xA;answer focuses on aggro-vs.-control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aggro-vs.-control matchups tend to revolve around board presence.&lt;/strong&gt; I&#xA;look at it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aggro deck is trying to put a lot of threats on the board, and the&#xA;control deck is trying to remove them or build his own board. Every&#xA;turn that the aggro player has a stronger board presence brings her&#xA;closer to victory, because she gets additional incremental value from&#xA;each of her threats.&#xA;For example, any turn that it's on the field and your opponent doesn't&#xA;have a blocker, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=170987&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goblin Guide&lt;/a&gt; gets to do 2 more damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game, the control player's immediate priority is to &#xA;&quot;stabilize&quot;, usually by getting to a sweeper like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;We often talk about the &quot;card advantage&quot; build into a many-for-one spell like &#xA;that, but the momentum swing it provides is usually more decisive. &#xA;I think &lt;strong&gt;your priority as the aggro deck isn't so much avoiding card &#xA;disadvantage as it is maintaining pressure&lt;/strong&gt;, through a mix of two strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Be fast&quot;: play an all-in game where you dump your hand out as fast&#xA;as possible and try to get your opponent to 0 life (or 10 poison)&#xA;before he has a chance to play many cards. During deckbuilding, this&#xA;means prioritizing low-curve, cost-efficient threats like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=170987&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goblin&#xA;Guide&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249401&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wild Nacatl&lt;/a&gt;, and packing in &quot;guaranteed&quot; damage&#xA;like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; to get in that final blow after you've lost&#xA;control of the field.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Be tough&quot;: develop a respectable board position to create&#xA;pressure, then maintain it despite removal and disruption; you're&#xA;still playing aggressively, because your opponent's &quot;endgame&quot; probably&#xA;trumps yours, but the idea here is to deny your opponent the ability to&#xA;stabilize early and easily. During deckbuilding, this involve persistent&#xA;threats like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237364&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doomed Traveler&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chandra's Phoenix&lt;/a&gt;, and&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thrun the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt;, or alternate lines of attack like &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shrine of Burning Rage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these aren't so much competing gameplans as two facets of&#xA;the same goal: getting your opponent to 0 life quickly and consistently.&#xA;A good aggro player will &#xA;tailor her current approach to the strengths and weaknesses of her&#xA;opponent's deck, so it's valuable to build decks that can play both &quot;fast&quot;&#xA;and &quot;tough&quot; (and are, ideally, at least a bit of both at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your deck is running blue, you also have recourse to countermagic&#xA;-- which you'll often see used in tournament &quot;Bant&quot; (green-white-blue)&#xA;and &quot;RUG&quot; (red-blue-green) list. This is the basis for the&#xA;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;aggro-control&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; style of deck, which uses control cards to protect its&#xA;board position. Forcing your opponent to wait until he has enough mana&#xA;to play Day of Judgment &lt;em&gt;with counterspell backup&lt;/em&gt; is often&#xA;backbreaking against straight-up control decks. Generally, though,&#xA;avoid running specific answer cards unless they are also threats, so that they don't&#xA;just languish uselessly in your hand while you wait for the right&#xA;moment; e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Qasali Pridemage&lt;/a&gt; is a better aggro choice than&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107302&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt; because a 2/2 exalted is always useful even if you&#xA;don't have an enchantment or artifact that you need to blow up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T19:50:42.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5844" CreationDate="2011-12-26T21:27:41.767" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my personal opinion, &quot;face up&quot; is intended to mean &quot;all information is visible to all players&quot;. Otherwise, you could also place them face up on the table but under a nontransparent cloth, which would give even less information than placing them face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T21:27:41.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5844" CreationDate="2011-12-26T22:03:27.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/eycypntqg/Guillotine_english_rules_scan.PDF?&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; states that players are allowed to check your nobles to see how many points have been scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T22:03:27.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5853" CreationDate="2011-12-26T22:33:26.687" Score="10" ViewCount="914" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there are how many Provinces left (if that is the way the game will most likely end), should you switch from buying Gold to Duchy (when you don't have 8 money)? Does this amount change for 3, 4 player? Is there a good rule of thumb based upon the number of players/potential buys before your next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T03:11:23.523" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T03:11:23.523" Title="Dominion: when playing the Big Money strategy, when should you switch from buying Gold to Duchy?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2011-12-26T23:29:41.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience it's a lot less fun simply because it eliminates the &quot;alliance&quot; aspect of a game with lots of players. There's also the deception element of the game (tricking other players into using up all their curse/bonus cards before your turn) which doesn't happen in a two player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone has good house rules for it though, I'd love to hear them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2031" LastActivityDate="2011-12-26T23:29:41.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5852" CreationDate="2011-12-27T01:48:16.867" Score="8" ViewCount="2096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a mono-Green infect Pauper deck that relies heavily on instant-speed pump spells in order to win. My opponent ruins my day pretty badly by playing a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standard%20Bearer&quot;&gt;Standard Bearer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, my deck also has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vines%20of%20Vastwood&quot;&gt;Vines of Vastwood&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383357&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ranger's Guile&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It occurs to me that I might be able to play one of these spells on the Standard Bearer, rendering it an illegal target for that turn, then play my other spells on my own creatures as intended. But will this actually work? I'm not sure about the subtleties of interpreting these effects when the target creature and the spell have different controllers, and I didn't get a chance to try it before the match ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:39:00.220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:39:00.220" Title="Playing around a flag bearer" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2011-12-27T02:17:59.183" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, neither of these spells will help you in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vines of Vastwood&lt;/strong&gt;, sadly, doesn't actually grant hexproof.  It appears to, as it has the same wording (and the latest Oracle text keeps this wording), but it doesn't actually give hexproof to the creature. This is an important distinction, because even if you play it on an opponent's creature, it doesn't prevent &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; spells or abilities, only those of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; opponents, as worded.&#xA;(It really &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be reworded to hexproof, but it hasn't been.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ranger's Guile&lt;/strong&gt; is no use for a simpler reason: you can't cast it on the Standard Bearer, because it can only target a creature you control. Even the Standard Bearer's ability doesn't redirect Ranger's Guile; as the bearer isn't a legal target for the Guile, the ability never triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T02:17:59.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5848" CreationDate="2011-12-27T02:34:38.553" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;For 2 player, the generally accepted tipping point is when there are 5 Provinces left, buy Duchies (and Estates when there are 2 Provinces left). This has been shown as optimal according to simulator testing for BM-based strategies (e.g., BM only or BM + any given card, e.g., Smithy). For race games (e.g., Gardens or IGG), the tipping point is much earlier, although it depends on the set in question. The answer will also change if you or your opponent is playing a mega-turn engine deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For multiplayer, the key is to remember that 3 player games have 4 Provinces/player, just like 2 player, but 4 player games only have 3 Provinces/player. So, the Duchy-buying should occur earlier in a 4-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T02:34:38.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5855" CreationDate="2011-12-27T04:24:30.717" Score="17" ViewCount="4534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a copy of Carcassonne for the holidays, and have enjoyed it so far. My print, however, doesn't include the mini-expansion River I, and it seems like a neat little mechanic insofar as what I've found. However, it's out of print, so I can't obtain it without quite a bit of markup and expense. The River &lt;em&gt;II&lt;/em&gt;, though, is readily available through Amazon, but I don't know if it's playable without the original River, and even if it is, if it's worth buying without the original to supplement it. So, this question boils down into two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does The River II require The River I?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, does not having The River I make The River II less enjoyable to a significant extent?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2211" LastActivityDate="2023-07-29T15:01:39.930" Title="Carcassonne: The River II playable/worth it without River I?" Tags="|carcassonne|carcassonne-river|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2011-12-27T05:48:02.403" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The River II does not require the River I in any way. I don't believe there is any official way to play with both of them together. IMHO The River I is a poor expansion by itself, in my play experience with it whoever goes first plays a farmer and whole shoreline on both sides of the river is one big connected farm giving that player a strong advantage. The River II fixes this issue by having roads and a city that cross the river, as well as one lake abutting a city, giving strong potential for multiple farms. All-in-all, River II is a good replacement for River I.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've adopted some house rules that someone on here (maybe @Aramis?) suggested in a comment for using both River I and II: make river of random length by starting with a spring and not separating out the lakes and other spring tiles. The river is not allowed to have 2 springs without lakes, but keeps going until someone draws a lake to end it. This would produce very short rivers with just one expansion, but would work equally well with 2 copies of River II as with I and II.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T16:18:48.083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T16:18:48.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5854" CreationDate="2011-12-27T05:57:52.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like what TheCodingMonkeys (Carcassonne IOS app devs) said in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ipadboardgames.org/2011/interview-with-thecodingmonkeys/&quot;&gt;recent interview&lt;/a&gt;: &quot; Historically it’s probably better to think about it as the improved river than as a separate expansion altogether.&quot; I'm pretty sure the River II is the right one for your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T05:57:52.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5831" CreationDate="2011-12-27T06:15:02.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a list at Wikipedia &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_mechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_mechanics&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2205" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T06:15:02.677" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5973" CreationDate="2011-12-27T14:44:07.900" Score="5" ViewCount="5163" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Risk Legacy, there is a Bunker that always adds (+1 to the highest defense die, except when the high die is a 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to roll 1 or 2 defense dice when defending a bunkered location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T03:10:57.203" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T03:10:57.203" Title="Risk Legacy: Is it better to roll 1 or 2 defense dice when defending a bunkered location?" Tags="|probability|risk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2011-12-27T14:45:53.420" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Matt Sheppard notes, the main problem with two-player Munchkin is that it eliminates the automatic balancing effect present with three or more players, where the weaker players can band together to pull the stronger ones down.  In normal play, this is the main effect that counteracts the otherwise fundamental unfairness of Munchkin &amp;mdash; without it, it's quite possible for the game to quickly get so unbalanced that one of the players is almost sure to win no matter what the other does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a problem especially if one of the players is new to the game: if the experienced player plays for keeps, they're likely to leave the newbie feeling like they didn't even have a chance, whereas if they pull their punches, the game is likely to get boring because there won't any of the scheming and backstabbing that makes normal Munchkin interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I do think that Munchkin with two players &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; potentially be fun, provided that both players are a) about equally skilled, b) reasonably familiar with the game and how it's typically played, and c) aware that they're playing the game in a way it was not designed for.  In particular, it's probably a good idea for both players to be experienced enough to tell when they're in a hopeless situation, so that they can either concede the game or just play it out quickly and get on with the next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for house rules, I have no real experience to share.  However, one possibility I'd strongly suggest would be going over the deck and picking out some of the most egregiously unbalanced cards like the Kneepads of Allure.  Basically, if it feels unbalanced in a multiplayer game, it's likely to be even more so with only two players.  Also, if the players are not quite perfectly matched, some kind of handicap system, such as extra starting levels, might be useful to compensate for the lack of automatic balancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ps.&lt;/strong&gt; From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_theory&quot;&gt;game theoretical&lt;/a&gt; perspective, two-player Munchkin ought to be pretty dull: it's a two-player zero sum game, where the success of one player (measured as expected probability of eventually winning) is exactly the complement of that of the other.  Thus, in optimal play, there really shouldn't be any (unforced) helping or trading, or anything else that requires the consent of both players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it can still work out in practice is that real humans are not the perfectly rational, risk-neutral and infinitely patient and foresightful agents assumed in classical game theory.  Thus, in a real game it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; happen that, say, both players find that trading certain items puts them both in more comfortable positions, or that one player is willing to accept a reward for helping that the other is willing to offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the strategic elements of Munchkin are not &lt;em&gt;entirely&lt;/em&gt; based on cooperation and trading: besides the simple process of optimizing your character build, there's quite a bit of strategy involved in deciding when to spend your one-shot cards and when to save them.  That still applies even in a two-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="2203" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T03:33:27.563" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T03:33:27.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-27T17:00:41.570" Score="17" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play &quot;Ticket to Ride: Europe&quot; with my kids (age 8 and 12) and I win too often. They do not want me to let them win: there's no fun in winning if you know the opponent didn't play to their full ability. We would all love a fair way to account for the difference in skills, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far we experimented with reducing the number of train cars you start with: the youngest got 45, as in the rules, older got 40 and I got 35. The youngest won, but the feeling was it was too easy for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2213" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T11:01:31.607" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T21:34:50.117" Title="&quot;Ticket to Ride: Europe&quot;: how to accommodate differences in players' strength?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|handicap|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5867" CreationDate="2011-12-27T18:29:45.130" Score="9" ViewCount="17974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite familiar with a few methods of cards, primarily &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Riffle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Riffling&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Mongean_shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mongean&lt;/a&gt;* shuffling. The issue I have with those is that the Riffling shuffle tends to bend cards and wear them out, as well as not working well with a large deck. The Mongean method isn't particularly good at shuffling large decks either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5162/2133&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread I'm not dealing with a well organised deck, but I am dealing with a large deck (80 cards plus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've considered cutting the deck in two first, but that then takes twice as long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best method for shuffling in this case?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*Instead of moving one card at a time, I move a random number.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-12-31T11:11:34.767" Title="What is the best way to shuffle a large deck without damaging the cards?" Tags="|statistics|playing-cards|shuffling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4172" CreationDate="2011-12-27T20:41:28.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Confusion arose when there was a disagreement about whether you move within the safety zone.  One says you must move, while another says once in the zone, you cannot move unless you draw the exact number To arrive in your home.  Since the rules specify having to move out on a four, it stands to reason that you must move if possible, but you cannot enter home on a number greater than required to arrive there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2215" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T20:41:28.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2011-12-27T23:46:19.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One easy handicap that works in many games like this is to simply give extra turns.  In a game like Ticket to Ride there is little 'engine building' going on, so it doesn't matter if the turns are early or late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try giving your youngest 2 extra turns, your oldest one extra, then you take yours, all at the beginning of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so it would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;youngest&#xA;youngest&#xA;oldest&#xA;youngest&#xA;oldest&#xA;you&#xA;youngest&#xA;oldest &#xA;you&#xA;etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-27T23:46:19.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2011-12-28T00:26:03.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Increasing the number of cards flipped on tunnel routes should be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, one can readily balance things with a requirement for more cards per track segment. For the most experienced, increase the card requirement by 2 per chunk, but do not increase the score. 1 additional for the more experienced. It's brutal, but changes play very little, just the length of time it takes to be able to claim a route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T00:26:03.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5862" CreationDate="2011-12-28T09:05:16.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the implied restriction on time combined with the explicit restriction to keep the cards pristine, I'd suggest using extra space to shuffle.  Here's what I do with large decks of cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the large deck into several smaller piles.  For 80 cards, I'd make about 8 piles of 7-15 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select two piles at random and combine them using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/video_2374011_do-hindu-shuffle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hindu shuffle&lt;/a&gt; (unlike in the video, when I do it, I do it by grasping the wider-side rather than the narrower side of the cards for better control of larger decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a few shuffles, grab another random pile and add it to the deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue until all decks have been added.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue with several more Hindu shuffles until you're satisfied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot keep all cards in your hand, recombine/shuffle half the cards, then recombine/shuffle the other half, put the two halves together (just stacking them) into 1 full deck again.  Finally, repeat the entire process two or three times (this is only necessary if you had to do a simple stacking).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T20:08:02.253" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T20:08:02.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5963" CreationDate="2011-12-28T12:47:07.320" Score="15" ViewCount="6881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know whether it is possible to, in a single game, convert all eight pawns of one colour into queens while retaining the original queen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presume that we are both playing chess competitively from the start of the game. Is there any circumstance where this could happen? Has it happened in the past?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1253" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2011-12-28T14:07:46.893" LastActivityDate="2021-04-23T16:17:23.203" Title="Can a single player have all nine potential queens in one game?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5868" CreationDate="2011-12-28T13:12:24.470" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically, it is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, it will never happen unless your opponent goes out of their way to let it happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not unheard of for &quot;real&quot; games to involve one player having 2 queens at the same time, and there are no rules that prohibit multiple pawns from promoting to queens (although don't forget: sometimes it is better to promote to a knight than a queen!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T13:12:24.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-28T14:57:37.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One big component of drafting is teaching them some of the basics.  Check out my question and the answers here for what you could teach them: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4921/what-are-good-strategies-for-booster-drafts&quot;&gt;What are good strategies for booster drafts?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another big component of draft is simply knowing what’s out there.  If you’ll be drafting Innistrad, there’s nothing better you could truly prepare them with than to crack open a box of boosters (maybe even some pack wars) to get them familiar with what’s available in the set.  Knowing what’s in the draft will give players a significant increase in deck building ability than going in cold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T14:57:37.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-28T16:21:51.827" Score="7" ViewCount="2840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious as to how the number of players in a draft should affect my strategy and deck-building tactics. With fewer people, there will obviously be fewer card choices, so building a good mono-colored deck will be more difficult with four people as compared to with eight. How do you change your thinking to accommodate differences in the number of players? What number of people tends to make for the best draft play? Are drafts ever done with extreme numbers, like 4 or 9 players? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T05:00:30.903" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T05:00:30.903" Title="How should my strategy change in an MTG Draft based on the number of players?" Tags="|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2011-12-28T17:56:35.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, I agree with Steven, the best thing to do is to coach them, but not give them an explicit handicap of any kind.  That way they will learn how it is really done.  Of course they will lose more often than they will win, but booster drafts are a bit more random than Constructed so they may win some as long as they know the basic rules, and anyone learning a new game should expect to lose a lot before they start winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, if you really want to give them a handicap, you can use any of the nomral ones used in casual games as long as everyone agrees who counts as new and who counts as experienced.  For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the new players 25 life instead of 20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the new players a starting and max hand size of 8 instead of 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done both of those before when playing against new players (though one or the other, both is probably a bit much).  Other options that I've heard of but haven't tried myself include letting the new player start the game with a basic land of their choice already in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one I've never heard of anyone doing before but would probably work nicely for a booster drafter is let each of the new players start with an extra booster that is not drafted and just theirs.  It would give them a fair bit of additional flexibility in deck construction and protect them somewhat from poor draft choices without affecting the actual matches directly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I've never tried it, but the more I think about it, the more I think giving the new players an extra non-drafted booster is the way I would do a handicap in a casual draft.  It won't affect the actual gameplay and you don't have to remember past the initial drafting who counts as new and who is experienced.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T17:56:35.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2011-12-28T18:06:47.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a novice player, so take everything I might say cautiously.  But I have been working through &quot;Invincible - The Games of Shusaku&quot; by John Power and I think it has been helping me, even if there is a lot I don't understand yet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mostly commentaries on games from Honinbo Shusaku, who is arguably one of the greatest Go players.  The one thing to keep in mind is that these games were played before Komi was invented, so generally black can be more defensive and white must be more aggressive then you would likely see in a modern competitive game.  Still, the general tactics should remain the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T18:06:47.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-12-28T18:15:16.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very much a novice, so I claim little experience and no expertise.  But I think handicap stones are supposed to be linear.  I know I have taken a 9 stone handicap and lost before, and even as a novice I have given 6 stones to complete beginners and won.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally the handicap stones work together (even with just 2, though its less obvious, and they reinforce each other much more above 5), but they are supposed to.  If they are refinforcing each other too much for White to have any chance, perhaps that is a sign that one of the two players is being misranked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to fine tune handicap a bit without giving more stones, you could use a reverse komi or permit free placement of the handicap stones, but give fewer of them, rather than enforcing traditional placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T18:15:16.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5571" CreationDate="2011-12-28T20:24:34.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a &quot;correct&quot; formulation that has been in any way validated. It is supposed to be approximately linear because we essentially define it that way: a 1 dan is defined relative to a 2 dan by being able to win around 50% of the games with a komi of 0.5.  It is fairly traditional, going back to old game series (pre-komi) where they would progressively change the handicap to indicate relative strength (&quot;forced X to take black&quot; etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of why you generally should think of ratings as relative to others in the same system–and possibly the same area–rather than absolutes.  Don't get me started on Korean &quot;1 kup&quot; players… -.-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The challenge (beyond all of this) is that handicap is essentially an imperfect approximation, and there is a skillset that is particular to handicap games.  Due to playstyle/psychological differences, handicapping is also not strictly transitive, to quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://mechner.com/david/go/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;David Mechner&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most people consider the handicap system very elegant because it's simple and it works well. However, it's not perfect. For one thing, the value of a stone is not really necessarily constant. For example, against an opponent of constant strength going from 4 stones to 3 stones is a bigger jump than going from 5 stones to 4. Also, there are style interactions that cause intransitivities. Player A might be able to give B at 2 stones, and B might be able to beat C even, but because of the specific strengths and weakness of the players, C might be able to give A two stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with that DDK (and even some higher SDK) ratings tend to fluctuate wildly game-to-game since they haven't &quot;stablized&quot; yet, and what you are essentially looking at is a system that is considered a &quot;good enough approximation.&quot;  Straight-komi systems also tend to break down after a certain point, because the difference in skill isn't linear no matter how much we try to shoehorn it into that model. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T20:24:34.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2011-12-28T22:01:50.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional number is, of course, 8 players. This is the only pod size used in high-level tournaments as far as I know, but for something more casual like FNM, it's not uncommon to hold drafts with 6 to 10 players. Personally I've participated in (non-sanctioned) drafts with 4 players and with 9 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps surprisingly, the difference in the size of the card pool isn't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; significant. Keep in mind that even though you'll have fewer (or more) cards to choose from, there are also fewer (or more) people to choose them. As long as you draft with 3 packs (42 or 45 cards) per person, those two effects balance each other out. It is an imperfect balance, though. Your decks tend to be a bit looser in a smaller pod, in the sense that if you're drafting a very specific archetype (perhaps one that relies on a specific card), you probably won't see enough of the cards that archetype needs to build the deck as focused as you would in an 8-player draft. You'll have to branch out and incorporate some cards that are less relevant to the deck you're trying to build, or perhaps combine two or more specific archetypes. Taking Innistrad draft as an example, instead of drafting a self-mill recursion deck as you might in an 8-player pod, if you're in a 4-player pod you might have to draft blue fatties, only some of which will be relevant to the recursion theme. Inexperienced drafters tend to just draft broad color-based strategies anyway, so they will likely not be affected much by the change in the pod size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much more noticeable difference, in my opinion, is that as the pod size shrinks, there are fewer people intervening between your first and second picks from a given pack, and so your chances of tabling your second or third choice card from the pack goes way up. As long as your archetype of choice is sufficiently broad, it's actually &lt;em&gt;easier&lt;/em&gt; to make a consistent deck in a small draft pod. If you think about it, with 5 colors and 4 or 5 players, there's a decent chance that the colors will sort themselves out 1 per player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, as the pod size grows, your chances of tabling any given card in a pack goes down. In fact, if you go up to 9 drafters, there will be 3 whole packs which you only see once. With 10 drafters, there will be 5 packs you only see once, and so on. This phenomenon reduces your ability to communicate with the rest of the table through your picks, and so you're less likely to get cards that fit into your strategy late in the draft. You should still be able to make a fairly focused deck because of the large card pool, but be prepared to have to fit in some &quot;stragglers,&quot; cards that you wouldn't ordinarily want in your deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of people say that pods with an odd number of drafters (like 7 or 9) are undesirable. I'm not sure why that is, though. The effects I've discussed above are minimal for a 7-person or 9-person pod, so the only disadvantage I can think of is that one person has to sit out each round during the games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T22:01:50.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5871" CreationDate="2011-12-28T23:15:32.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most obvious difference between large and small pods is in how often you will see the same pack returned to you. In a four-player draft, for instance, it's not that difficult to memorize a couple of &quot;strong&quot; cards you see in your first pack, which will give you a lot of feedback about which colors/archetypes are likely to be open fairly quickly (just look out for the situation changing later). In a ten-player pod, those same packs will be so picked over by the time you see it again that it's unlikely to yield much useful information -- you'll still be able to get a general feel for what's under- or over- drafted at the table, but it's much harder to figure out what to expect from the player who will be feeding you in round 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it's much more likely that 2 out of 4 players will spontaneously try to draft the same deck than that 5 out of 10 players will do so. So, while the signals in large pods are harder to read, the penalty for misreading them is usually lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own (anecdotal) experience in FNM draft is that smaller pods make &quot;forcing&quot; easier and more rewarding. If you lean hard on an archetype from the get-go and other players take the hint and stay away (it helps to bait them with goodies for some other strategy, of course, so they go off pursuit that one instead of blocking yours), you get massive rewards for being the only person drafting it by the time round 3 rolls around. In larger groups I've done better by laying low and looking for what's underdrafted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting Innistrad and Dark Ascension is a little bit different because of double-faced cards. If one of your left-hand neighbors drafts a DFC, you suddenly have much more information about what to expect in round 2, regardless of pod size. That said, a smaller pod still gives you an information advantage because it's much easier to notice &lt;em&gt;everyone's&lt;/em&gt; DFC choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-12-28T23:15:32.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-12-29T03:16:47.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have once taken a class in combinatorics, and knowing chess helped me to not struggle through a couple of lectures. Not knowing poker at the time actually did hurt me. True chess skills could possibly impress one on a resume. If you know some chess, you get some cultural references. If you know both chess and poker, you can watch more movies with better understanding. Chess trains your mind, possibly helps to fight Alzheimer's. If you are at a retiring age and have much time on your hand, then chess is a great way (but not the only way) to keep your mind sharp. Familiarity with chessboard (overall square, black-white squares) is great for being able to refer to it when occasionally describing an algorithm or a math problem. Being really good at chess can be a money maker. You can impress your co-workers. If you are a new hire, but played chess at work and beat everyone, you might get some extra respect. Lastly, chess is cool and fun (when you win)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2224" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T03:16:47.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2011-12-29T08:47:48.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go on to pick up programming and some knowledge of artificial intelligence, and write some amazing chess engine that beats the crap out of Rybka and Houdini. There are still plenty of computing challenges left to solve for chess, such as in the realm of tablebases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2227" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T08:47:48.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5831" CreationDate="2011-12-29T08:52:26.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a fairly notable site &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.squidi.net/three/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Three Hundred Mechanics&lt;/a&gt; which you can visit for some inspiration, although it doesn't quite have 300 yet and is not specific to boardgames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2227" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T08:52:26.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5868" CreationDate="2011-12-29T09:06:38.783" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Beofett said it is theoretically possible, but this is something you would only want to attempt while playing a weak computer for the lolz. Strong players who have a habit of playing computers from time to time, like Nakamura, may take pleasure from promoting his excess pawns to knights/bishops and proceed to checkmate the computer with them. Here is one example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1480850&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1480850&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons why it should not happen in a game between to two human players:&#xA;If your opponent allows it to happen (i.e. he is weak) you should not prolong his misery any more than necessary (which is bad etiquette). If he is aware that the situation is hopeless he should resign and not allow it to happen as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2227" LastEditorUserId="2227" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T09:14:26.257" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T09:14:26.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12" CreationDate="2011-12-29T09:29:02.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Castling early is still a good general rule of thumb for beginners. I believe it is more related to actual playing strength than playing &quot;modern&quot; openings (which I don't believe in either, I only believe in modern lines). Strong (or very strong) players, with their better and more precise understanding of the game, know when and how to identify exceptions and break the rules with very clear justifications, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they get sufficient compensation (particularly king safety) for late/not castling, such as in cases where the center is blocked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the a/h files for respective rooks will become open/semi-open through exchanges/pawn captures, thus removing a need to develop them by castling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the opponent hangs a piece that can be captured by moving the king or the rook, it never hurts to win material this wway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2227" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T09:29:02.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5885" CreationDate="2011-12-29T14:19:51.540" Score="7" ViewCount="3941" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262861&quot; title=&quot;Creature — W, 1/1, Whenever another Human enters the battlefield under your control, put a +1/+1 counter on Champion of the Parish.&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt; in play and play an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220147&quot; title=&quot;Artifact Creature - 3, 2/2, As Adaptive Automaton enters the battlefield, choose a creature type. Adaptive Automaton is the chosen type in addition to its other types. Other creatures you control of the chosen type get +1/+1.&quot;&gt;Adaptive Automaton&lt;/a&gt;, choosing human, does the Champion's ability activate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it does since&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the declaration of human occurs &quot;as the AA enters the battlefield&quot;, not &quot;once the ...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the declaration takes place immediately and is not stack based (per gatherer ruling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Champion's affect reads &quot;whenever a Human enters the battlefield&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the AA is a human when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone clarify this more conclusively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:43:51.067" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:43:51.067" Title="Can an Adaptive Automaton trigger Champion of the Parish's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2011-12-29T16:25:45.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adaptive Automaton will enter the battlefield already possessing the chosen creature type, which will trigger Champion of the Parish.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Automaton's first ability is a &quot;replacement effect&quot;. Relevant rules are under the heading &quot;Replacement Effects&quot;. Relevant excerpts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615),&#xA;     replacement effects apply continuously as events happen—they aren’t locked in ahead of time. Such&#xA;     effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event&#xA;     with a different event. They act like “shields” around whatever they’re affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent]&#xA;     enters the battlefield . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ” are replacement&#xA;     effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens. A modified event occurs instead, which may in turn&#xA;     trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can’t be carried out, in&#xA;     which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information about how this interacts with Champion of the Parish, let's look at &quot;Handling Triggered Abilities&quot; -- specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6. Trigger events that involve objects changing zones are called “zone-change triggers.” Many&#xA;     abilities with zone-change triggers attempt to do something to that object after it changes zones. During resolution, these abilities look for the object in the zone that it moved to. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the&#xA;     permanent is on the battlefield (and not before then). The permanent is never on the battlefield&#xA;     with its unmodified characteristics. Continuous effects don’t apply before the permanent is on&#xA;     the battlefield, however (see rule 603.6e).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect reads “All lands are creatures” and a land card is played, the&#xA;  effect makes the land card into a creature the moment it enters the battlefield, so it&#xA;  would trigger abilities that trigger when a creature enters the battlefield. Conversely, if&#xA;  an effect reads “All creatures lose all abilities” and a creature card with an enters-the-&#xA;  battlefield triggered ability enters the battlefield, that effect will cause it to lose its&#xA;  abilities the moment it enters the battlefield, so the enters-the-battlefield ability won’t&#xA;  trigger.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in essence, &quot;As Adaptive Automaton enters the battlefield, choose a creature type&quot;  replaces the normal &quot;~ enters the battlefield&quot; action that you perform when summoning a creature with a subtly different action: &quot;~ enters the battlefield and its controller chooses a creature type&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Adaptive Automaton is the chosen type in addition to its other types&quot; is a static ability just like shroud or flying, so your Automaton is an &quot;Artifact Creature - Human Construct&quot; (or &quot;Construct Human&quot;, I suppose, the rules aren't picky) when it enters the battlefield, and this is the type that all triggered abilities (like Champion's) will see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to see an official example of Adaptive Automaton interacting with a Human-enters-the-battlefield ability, look at the Rulings section for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dearly Departed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T19:27:46.800" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T19:27:46.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5884" CreationDate="2011-12-29T16:26:10.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Champion's ability does not activate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Automaton's first ability creates a replacement effect that defines what creature type is being referred to by his other two abilities, which are both static effects.  According to the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.2. Static abilities create continuous effects, some of which are prevention effects or replacement effects. These effects are active as&#xA;  long as the permanent with the ability remains on the battlefield and&#xA;  has the ability, or as long as the object with the ability remains in&#xA;  the appropriate zone, as described in rule 112.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that in order for the Automaton's static abilities to be in effect, it must be a permanent on the battlefield.  As it's entering the battlefield, it's not yet a permanent, so it's not yet a human, so the Champion won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further discussion has revealed that I am incorrect.  Please refer to AlexP's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5885/2066&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; and the comments on this answer for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2066" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T17:32:18.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5888" CreationDate="2011-12-29T20:07:15.040" Score="6" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let say I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=126139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leaden Fists&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=147406&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leech Bonder&lt;/a&gt;, can I pay my 1 blue mana and untap, or does Leaden Fist overide this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:44:10.423" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:44:10.423" Title="When can an 'untap' ability not untap?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5887" CreationDate="2011-12-29T20:17:19.843" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can untap Leech Bonder this way because the untapping is not occurring as part of the untap phase, which is what Leaden Fists is preventing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, Leaden Fists is preventing the &quot;normal&quot; untap, not an activated ability untap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T20:17:19.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-29T22:25:29.207" Score="4" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;We totally don't understand how to start playing &lt;em&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/em&gt;. I only have three total players. We each have a die, 5 white cards, 1 loyalty card, and a coat of arms &amp;amp; have placed our respective miniture at the round table &amp;amp; have placed each a white card from our individual hands face up on the round table. All display fight 2 are numbered 2 and the other is number 1. What do we do now? We are all first-time players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2230" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2011-12-29T23:29:41.480" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T23:31:48.683" Title="How do you start playing?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5889" CreationDate="2011-12-29T23:31:48.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a cooperative game.  So, the first thing you need to do is decide, as a group, how to distribute the three white face-up cards among the group.  You could decide that all three go to one person, or you could decide any other division.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This decision is often made based on which characters are in play.  For example, if you're playing with Sir Galahad, you all might choose to put all special whites into the middle face-up and give them all to Sir Galahad (remember everyone starts with a Merlin, so everyone will have at least one special white), since Sir Galahad can play them for free on his turn.  Likewise Galahad might play a high fight card to give to Sir Kay, since Sir Kay is more likely to do combats (e.g. for the armor, which is a good first quest to attempt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You likely wouldn't want to give Sir Gawain any cards, since his special power is to draw an extra one, so he can fill up his hand at Camelot faster (the 'heroic action' at the round table is to draw more white cards, and he gets an extra)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is your first time playing, especially with only 3 players, the rules strongly encourage not playing with the loyalty cards/potential traitor.  I agree with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If King Arthur is in the game, he goes first, else the youngest player starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you 'progress evil' by drawing a black card and doing what it says.  Let's say that it's a Picts card, so you place a Picts miniature on the Picts battlefield.  Now the player gets to do one thing.  This can be to move away from the round table to a quest (place the miniature in a/the small circle of that quest), draw two cards (this is the 'quests heric action'), or play a special white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend option two for the very first turn, as it's unlikely you have enough cards to sucessfully complete a quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to be able to 'finish' a quest, and not waste a lot of time moving around.  This means having two pairs of fight cards, a run of 1-5 fight cards, etc. to correspond to the quest (black knight or picts/saxons in those two cases).  Strategy-wise, I suggest the group gets someone with a 'full house' (two of one fight card and three of another) and then go to the Lancelot's Armor quest, as the armor's power makes the game much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to ask clarifying questions (comments) if you need more help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2011-12-29T23:31:48.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5897" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:01:50.043" Score="7" ViewCount="51724" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5743/what-happens-when-a-commander-is-exiled&quot;&gt;commander is exiled&lt;/a&gt;, it can go to the command zone if the owner chooses. What if a commander is exiled by an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205396&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xRSSd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Oblivion Ring&quot; title=&quot;Type: Enchantment Card Text:  1. When Oblivion Ring enters the battlefield, exile another target nonland permanent.  2. When Oblivion Ring leaves the battlefield, return the exiled card to the battlefield under its owner&amp;#39;s control.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming the commander can still go to the command zone. If it does, then what happens when Oblivion Ring leaves the battlefield? Does your commander return to the battlefield? Is the additional cost of casting your commander affected in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T01:00:49.260" Title="How does an Oblivion Ring interact with a Commander in EDH?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5896" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:11:39.763" Score="8" ViewCount="20300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two very closely related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card has two different &quot;Sacrifice this creature for X&quot; abilities on it, does sacrificing it give both benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if a card requires a creature to be sacrificed, but that creature has a &quot;Sacrifice this creature for X&quot; ability, do you get the sacrifice benefit when you sacrifice it for the other requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:42:09.427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:42:09.427" Title="Can you claim a Double Sacrifice Bonus?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-01T17:34:24.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5894" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:28:05.600" Score="9" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=22968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spirit of Resistance&lt;/a&gt; require you to have one card of each color or does a single card with all 5 colors satisfy its requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oracle Text&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As long as you control a permanent of each color, prevent all damage that would be dealt to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:51:59.407" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:51:59.407" Title="Does a single 5-color card satisfy Spirit of Resistance?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5893" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:33:09.797" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the rulings at the bottom of the linked Gatherer page (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?printed=false&amp;amp;multiverseid=22968&quot;&gt;again&lt;/a&gt; for reference), you'll see the following ruling for this card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10/4/2004:&lt;/strong&gt; A permanent which is of multiple colors counts as each of its colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T04:33:09.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:35:07.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either leave the commander under the oblivion ring to begin with, so he doesn't go to the command zone or you can send him to the command zone, making him cost a normal +2, and nothing happens when the ring goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2232" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T04:35:07.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5892" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:36:11.400" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No to both - each ability has an individual cost, which you'll need to fulfill before it is put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you see &lt;code&gt;Sacrifice [X]: Do [Y]&lt;/code&gt;, that is expressing a cost that must be paid in order to activate the ability.  A single paid cost may not activate multiple abilities; see the following (from the comp. rules):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.10.&lt;/strong&gt; Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T04:36:11.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5891" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:37:06.133" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Commander can still go to the command zone, or exile, its' owner's choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.12. If a commander would be put into the exile zone from anywhere, its owner may put it into the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Oblivion Ring leaves the battlefield, it triggers an ability that attempts to &quot;return the exiled card to the battlefield under its owner's control.&quot; When it can't find the card in the exile zone, it fails to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not get your Commander back on the battlefield (as he is currently in the Command Zone).&#xA;The +2 additional mana cost can never loose/subtract/lower in cost, it always increases for each previous time you have cast your Commander from the Command Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.10. A player may cast a commander he or she owns from the command zone. Doing so costs that player an additional {2} for each previous time he or she cast that commander from the command zone that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T04:37:06.133" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5900" CreationDate="2011-12-30T04:57:31.030" Score="7" ViewCount="30600" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.12. If a commander would be put into the exile zone from anywhere, its owner may put it into the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the owner chooses to let a commander go into the graveyard with the expectation of returning it, but the return fails, can the owner then move the commander to the command zone so it can be cast from the command zone? Or does the choice to move the commander to the command zone need to be made immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:25:39.330" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T15:08:28.577" Title="Can the choice to move a commander to the command-zone be delayed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5902" CreationDate="2011-12-30T05:05:26.070" Score="16" ViewCount="39572" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Commander / EDH players have 40 life. In normal magic 10 poison counters results in a player being eliminated. Is it still 10 poison counters in Commander / EDH? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Commander / EDH a player is eliminated if they receive 21 commander damage. If the commander does poison damage does this count double toward the poison threshold, or somehow different than normal poison counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:25:19.360" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:42:53.850" Title="How does poison work in Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5898" CreationDate="2011-12-30T06:51:00.077" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The rule you quote (and its equivalent for graveyards) is the appropriate one and mentions nothing about delays. The choice must be made immediately, but can be remade whenever the commander changes zones. For example, if you allow your commander to go to the graveyard, and then a card is played to exile your graveyard, you can once again choose to send your commander to the command zone instead. Once your commander has arrived somewhere (exile, graveyard), it stays there until a card tells it to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, the graveyard rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.11. If a commander would be put into its owner’s graveyard from anywhere, that player may put it into the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2019-05-08T15:08:28.577" LastActivityDate="2019-05-08T15:08:28.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5898" CreationDate="2011-12-30T06:52:52.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You quoted the wrong rule, but the answer two both situations is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.11. If a commander would be put into its owner’s graveyard from anywhere, that player may put it into the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you see the word &quot;instead&quot;, you should understand that this is a replacement effect. If the owner chooses to let the commander go to the graveyard, he is giving up his option to move it to the Command Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.5. A replacement effect doesn’t invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T06:52:52.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5899" CreationDate="2011-12-30T07:00:31.670" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Comprehensive Rules cover Commander rules (903) in about a page. It only lists one additional rule for winning/losing the game.&#xA;Yes, 10 poison counters kills you in Commander.&#xA;No, poison damage doesn't count double, Commanders that deal poison damage, deal damage as any other poison creature would deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.13. The Commander variant includes the following specification for winning and losing the game. All other rules for winning and losing the game also apply. (See rule 104.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.13a A player that’s been dealt 21 or more combat damage by the same commander over the&#xA;course of the game loses the game. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T07:00:31.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2011-12-30T12:50:51.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the cards are equally distributed by rarity, there have been times when issues involving sorting and packaging have made certain cards more likely to appear together, or in the same booster box, or even be more likely depending on the area of the country you are in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T12:50:51.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5892" CreationDate="2011-12-30T14:04:06.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for the reasons given by Ian, however, if the card had read &quot;Whenever a creature is sacrificed do X.  Sacrifice a creature: Do Y&quot; you would get both effects as the first is triggering to the action of sacrificing, and is not stating a cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T14:04:06.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:00:43.327" Score="10" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding Smallworld and using tokens to attack a region from multiple regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario is this: A group of 7 Shrooms is sat between a group of 2 dwarfs to the north and 6 to the south. Can the dwarfs combine forces to attack the region with the Shrooms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2235" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:53:39.463" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:53:39.463" Title="Can I combine troops from multiple regions when conquering?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5909" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:20:45.973" Score="4" ViewCount="2596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a general question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5892/can-you-claim-a-double-sacrifice-bonus/&quot;&gt;double sacrifice bonus&lt;/a&gt;, but thought it better to ask a specific question. If a creature has a &quot;Sacrifice this creature for X&quot; ability, can you sacrifice it for that ability and satisfy the requirement of the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEldrazi%20Monument%5d&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Monument&lt;/a&gt; with the same sacrifice (assuming it is done during the upkeep)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oracle Text&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creatures you control get +1/+1, have flying, and are indestructible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, sacrifice a creature. If you can't, sacrifice Eldrazi Monument.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:51:19.497" Title="Can a creature's sacrifice benefit be taken when it is sacrificed to Eldrazi Monument?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:31:07.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Card text that instructs you to perform an action is telling you to perform that action &lt;strong&gt;for this card&lt;/strong&gt;. Other similar actions you could take just because don't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the example of two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Propagandas&lt;/a&gt; on the field: paying (2) to satisfy one of them does not &quot;pay off&quot; the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T18:31:07.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5907" CreationDate="2011-12-30T18:37:30.007" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;Magic: The Gathering Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.10. Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T18:37:30.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5906" CreationDate="2011-12-30T19:04:29.623" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, they cannot combine.&lt;/strong&gt; (in the way that you are implying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacks are not made from units on the board, they are made from units &quot;in hand&quot;.  Once deployed to the board, units may not be moved or picked back up until the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each attack is from one distinct region to another.  Note that during the &lt;em&gt;Ready your Troops&lt;/em&gt; phase, you should pick up all extra troops from each area (and can even eliminate all troops from areas if you wish) in order to make a bigger attack force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, if those troops haven't attacked this turn, then you can effectively combine them when you ready your troops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:53:23.053" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:53:23.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2011-12-30T19:33:00.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main (though not sole) factor is the competition, and depth is another major one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love video games, but in most of them I am playing against the computer, often with a difficulty slider, often with the ability to adjust it after the game has begun.  It is fun, but not competitive.  I might play it through twice (especially if a different play through style) but more than that is very rare and by then I've seen it most of everything there is to see.  Enslaved: Journey to the West is one of my favorite recent vide games, but I only played it through once because there wasn't much more to see or do on a second playthrough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Chess or Go on the other hand, I am competing against another human (I do play against computers on both, but I see that largely as training/practice for playing against humans).  They also have enormous depth, where I frequently discover things that are new to me in games or in books about the games.  In contrast, while I certainly missed some things, I found most of what was available in Enslaved: Journey to the West in my playthrough.  Even more, professional Go and Chess players are discovering things that are new to the entire world.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To agree with and expand on what Lohoris said, video games that incorporate depth and competition last a lot longer than others.  Starcraft, which is all about competition and has enormous depth, is still played many years later and only really started dropping in popularity when Starcraft II came out with those elements and better graphics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2011-12-30T19:33:00.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2686" CreationDate="2011-12-30T20:29:15.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;social aspect&lt;/strong&gt; is huge, and it's importance cannot be overstated. Even with all the new technology, playing video games with people in other locations doesn't provide anything close to the same camaraderie of a bunch of people in one room. And even now there are very few video games that work for more than 4 people at once, and many multiplayer video games have a steep skill curve and will be less fun if some of the participants aren't as good as others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor (inspired by the comments about Monopoly) is &lt;strong&gt;adaptability&lt;/strong&gt;. One of our most popular tags here is one that's completely absent from gaming.stackexchange: [house-rules]. With board games, it's easy to experiment, try something unusual, twist and combine. Most games I like I've at least tried to play in a different way, and some of the variations have stuck. This is so easy to do with board games, and takes a lot of effort and some specialized skills to do with most computer games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T19:57:11.633" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T19:57:11.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5918" CreationDate="2011-12-31T04:33:52.517" Score="5" ViewCount="2376" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent plays a card such as Local Unrest and targets my last ground force on the planet, that planet is turned neutral.  When that happens, do I lose any PDS's and Space Docks on that planet, or do they remain?  If my forces remain there, do I regain control when I land ground forces there again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:16:40.573" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:16:40.573" Title="If an action card turns a planet neutral, are the space docks and PDS units on it destroyed?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5916" CreationDate="2011-12-31T06:02:27.087" Score="9" ViewCount="20078" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature has both a sacrifice and tap ability can you tap it for the tap benefit and then sacrifice it for the sacrifice ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gemhide%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Gemhide Sliver&lt;/a&gt; taps for mana, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Basal%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Basal Sliver&lt;/a&gt; gives mana on sacrifice. So can I tap then sacrifice a sliver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T11:40:56.680" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T11:40:56.680" Title="Can you sacrifice a tapped creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5914" CreationDate="2011-12-31T07:22:14.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, yes, you can use the abilities of tapped creatures that do not have tapping the creature as part of the cost to use the ability even when the creature is tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T07:22:14.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5914" CreationDate="2011-12-31T11:21:20.353" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general answer: Whenever you are asked by a spell or ability for a certain target, or when you have to pay certain costs, then as long as the chosen object has all the required properties, all other properties can be whatever they are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if an ability requires you to &quot;sacrifice a creature&quot;, it doesn't say anything about the creature being tapped or untapped, so as long as it's a creature, you can sacc it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T11:21:20.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2011-12-31T12:16:42.850" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride Asia has a double-sided board, one side for up to 5 players playing individually, and the other side for 6 players in 3 pairs. It's very well written and playing in pairs doesn't just mean a straightforward teaming up as you only share half your information with your partner. Complicated on first play... but all the best games are!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2243" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T12:16:42.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5913" CreationDate="2011-12-31T18:27:25.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Space Docks and PDS units are destroyed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 3 of the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/site/support/ti3faq2-3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ version 2.3&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If a planet contains one Ground Force, one Space Dock, and one PDS,&#xA;  and “Local Unrest” is played on that planet, are the Space Dock and&#xA;  PDS destroyed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. The Space Dock and PDS would be destroyed due&#xA;  to the planet changing ownership (becoming neutral).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for good measure, on page 12 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a PDS unit lands alone on a neutral or enemy planet, it is&#xA;  immediately destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1065" LastEditorUserId="1065" LastEditDate="2011-12-31T18:33:18.793" LastActivityDate="2011-12-31T18:33:18.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5920" CreationDate="2012-01-01T00:21:20.410" Score="8" ViewCount="4082" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dormant%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Dormant Sliver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{2}{G}{U}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature -- Sliver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Sliver creatures have defender.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Slivers have &amp;quot;When this permanent enters the battlefield, draw a card.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem if all Slivers have defender then they could no longer attack and would be like a wall. Or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T15:36:27.400" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T15:36:27.400" Title="Does Dormant Sliver mean Slivers can no longer attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5919" CreationDate="2012-01-01T00:30:00.990" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes (you aren't missing anything).  With Dormant Sliver in play, no slivers will be able to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comp. rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.3b&lt;/strong&gt; A creature with defender can't attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T00:30:00.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5922" CreationDate="2012-01-01T01:30:44.353" Score="5" ViewCount="9672" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am the only player with any permanents then does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Harmonic%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Harmonic Sliver&lt;/a&gt; mean I must destroy one of my permanents? Can it destroy itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harmonic Sliver says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Slivers have &amp;quot;When this permanent enters the battlefield, destroy target artifact or enchantment.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T20:49:47.693" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T20:49:47.693" Title="Does Harmonic Sliver have to destroy a permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5921" CreationDate="2012-01-01T02:18:52.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sliver's ability says &quot;destroy target &lt;em&gt;artifact or enchantment&lt;/em&gt;,&quot; not just &quot;destroy target permanent.&quot; So it can only destroy something which is an artifact or enchantment. In particular, the Sliver cannot destroy itself unless it there is some ability in effect that makes it an artifact or enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the ability does not say &quot;may&quot; (as in &quot;you may destroy target artifact or enchantment&quot;). So you are required to destroy an artifact or enchantment if there is one on the battlefield. This makes no distinction as to who controls the artifact or enchantment; if you're the only player who controls any artifacts or enchantments, then you must choose one of your own to be the target of the ability. If there are no artifacts or enchantments in play when the sliver enters the battlefield, then the ability is removed from the stack (and nothing is destroyed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2012-01-01T22:15:11.830" LastActivityDate="2012-01-01T22:15:11.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6088" CreationDate="2012-01-01T07:45:46.417" Score="10" ViewCount="13128" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends play this marble game often, but we don't know the name of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play with 2 decks of cards. Play in 2 or 3 teams of 2 players each. (The image below is setup for 2 teams of 2.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goal is to get both players on the team all filled up in their base. Have to get into the base with an exact number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player takes turns playing cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A: Forward 1 or out of start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K: Back 1 or out of start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Q: Forward 12 or out of start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;J: Switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3: Back 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forward number on card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the rules include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have to use an A/K/Q to move out of start before any cards can be played to move a marble any further.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't pass your teammate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can use the backwards cards from the start to loop around to the end of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Landing on an opponent puts them back to start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black places are safeties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a handful of other rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dynfA.png&quot; alt=&quot;marble game board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2246" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:55:49.520" Title="What is the name of this marble game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5929" CreationDate="2012-01-01T20:53:29.190" Score="8" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking about a situation where someone accidentally reveals a copper from their starting hand while shuffling their deck or discovers that they only have 9 cards in their starting deck (and they are certain they put the required 3 Estates in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they added a copper from the supply to their first hand, and drew 4 more of the remaining 9 cards, would their odds of getting a 5:2 or 2:5 hand versus a 4:3 or 3:4 hand be any different than if they drew a normal 5 card starting hand from a normal 10 card deck? (I realize that a 5:2 hand is slightly different than a 2:5 hand, in that it allows you to change your possible 2:5 coin buy after an opponents first purchase. The thing I am wondering though is if it changes the chances of getting a 5:2 split versus the more likely 4:3 split).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T06:11:05.233" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T06:11:05.233" Title="If I put a copper and add 4 more random cards into my hand from my starting deck, does it change the odds of getting the 5:2 split?" Tags="|dominion|probability|random|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5924" CreationDate="2012-01-02T00:48:08.003" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little unclear what you mean by revealing the copper, then keeping on shuffling.  If you're still shuffling, then you're not done yet, and any cards revealed should be put back into the 10 cards.  If you're already starting to deal, then the cards are fixed, in which case you keep dealing regardless of the revealed card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, making any kind of decision based on a revealed card will change the odds. Here's what I mean by decision:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to game the system, so I shuffle until I accidentally reveal a card, if it's a copper, I let it remain in my starting hand, but if it's an Estate, I shuffle it back in.  I've just drastically increased my odds of having more copper in my starting hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This scenario is equivalent to one where I intentionally reveal copper, as that's simply  the same as choosing the first card of your hand, and having the rest random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, getting to choose your first card (instead of it being random) definitely affects the odds of getting any particular hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T00:48:08.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5924" CreationDate="2012-01-02T00:54:45.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Knowing that the first card is a copper (or an estate) doesn't bias the 5/2 distribution at all.  Knowing the first two cards, however, does bias the distribution.  The best justification I can come up with is to mark a single copper as your special copper.  If you divided the ways of getting a 5/2 split into different classes depending on 10 different possible locations of that special copper, each of those 10 sets have equal size and an equal ratio of 5/2 vs 4/3, so you haven't really told me anything about the likelihood of a 5/2 by telling me which of those 10 subsets you are in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Output of some sims:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   0.16722&#xA;C  0.16752&#xA;CC 0.19536&#xA;CE 0.10769&#xA;E  0.16728&#xA;EE 0.37528&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the Python code that produced the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import random&#xA;import collections&#xA;&#xA;def split_is_25(start):&#xA;  cur = start&#xA;  rest = []&#xA;  startC = start.count('C')&#xA;  startE = start.count('E')&#xA;  rest.extend(['C'] * (7 - startC))&#xA;  rest.extend(['E'] * (3 - startE))&#xA;  random.shuffle(rest)&#xA;  split = start + rest&#xA;  rand_split = [split[0:5].count('C'), split[5:10].count('C')]&#xA;  rand_split.sort()&#xA;  return rand_split[0] == 2&#xA;&#xA;N = 100000&#xA;tests = ['', 'C', 'CC', 'CE', 'E', 'EE']&#xA;counts = collections.defaultdict(int)&#xA;&#xA;for i in range(N):&#xA;  for test in tests:&#xA;    counts[test] += split_is_25(list(test))&#xA;for test in tests:&#xA;  print test, float(counts[test]) / N&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T01:08:07.983" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T01:08:07.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5791" CreationDate="2012-01-02T01:24:56.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, after asking a few people, I've found the game: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%C5%ABsker_D%C5%AB%3F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hūsker Dū?&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hH9Mk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hH9Mk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Hūsker Dū?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T02:28:02.610" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:28:02.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5924" CreationDate="2012-01-02T01:31:16.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe a probabilistically equivalent question is &quot;If a single card revealed from an opening hand is copper, does it tell you anything about the starting deck?&quot; Order doesn't matter (even in your example situation, as every hand is guaranteed to have copper, that the &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; card is copper isn't significant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayes%27_theorem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bayes' Rule&lt;/a&gt; for conditional probability says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(A|B) = P(B|A) P(A) / P(B)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; be the event that there is a 5:2 or 2:5 split and &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt; be the event that a random card revealed is a copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;code&gt;P(B|A)&lt;/code&gt;, the number of coppers in the first two hands are 5:2. Which hand is first (the 5 or the 2) is equally likely, so the probability of revealing a copper from the first hand is the average probability of revealing a copper from the two possible first hands, i.e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(B|A) = (1.00 + 0.40) / 2 = 0.70&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we must consider the 4:3 case to calculate &lt;code&gt;P(B)&lt;/code&gt;. If the first two hands are 4:3, same comments about order apply, and the probability of revealing a copper is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(copper revealed | 4:3) = (0.80 + 0.60) / 2 = 0.70&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the probability of revealing a copper &lt;em&gt;doesn't change&lt;/em&gt; based on a 5:2 or a 4:3 split so &lt;code&gt;P(B) = P(B|A) = 0.7&lt;/code&gt;. But this is the definition of statistical independence, and going back to the original Bayes' Rule, &lt;code&gt;P(B)&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;P(B|A)&lt;/code&gt; can cancel, so &lt;code&gt;P(A|B) = P(A)&lt;/code&gt;. The odds of a 2:5 split are unchanged by reveal of a copper in the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's initially more counterintuitive, but it follows directly that a first card Estate also provides no information about the breakdown. (In all cases &lt;code&gt;P(estate revealed) = 1 - P(copper revealed)&lt;/code&gt;, so we'd have .3's instead of .7's.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T01:50:09.570" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T01:50:09.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5924" CreationDate="2012-01-02T02:13:08.703" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds of getting a 5:2 split over the more common 4:3 split is unchanged, even if the first card is intentionally chosen to be a copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mathematically, this can be proven using &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypergeometric_distribution&quot;&gt;hypergeometric distribution&lt;/a&gt;.  This can be calculated using the following function, where &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; is the size of the deck, &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; is the number of cards drawn, and &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; is the number of coppers available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(X=k) = (m choose k) * ((N-m) choose (n-k)) / (N choose n)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a normal starting deck, you would use values of &lt;code&gt;N=10&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;n=5&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;m=7&lt;/code&gt;.  Without boring you with the math proper, these would give you a result breakdown as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 copper: 1/12&#xA;3 copper: 5/12&#xA;4 copper: 5/12&#xA;5 copper: 1/12&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you would normally have a &lt;code&gt;1/12 + 1/12 = 1/6&lt;/code&gt; chance of getting the 5:2 split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if the first card is preemptively selected to be a copper, this changes our starting numbers.  Since the first card is known, your starting draw would effectively be a four card draw from a nine card deck containing only six coppers.  Punching in the values &lt;code&gt;N=9&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;n=4&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;m=6&lt;/code&gt; into our function, we end up with the following table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 copper: 1/21&#xA;2 copper: 5/14&#xA;3 copper: 10/21&#xA;4 copper: 5/42&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the spread of numbers is significantly different, your odds of a 5:2 split work out to &lt;code&gt;1/21 + 5/42 = 7/42 = 1/6&lt;/code&gt;, which is exactly the same as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, note that although the odds of the split themselves are unchanged, by selecting out the first copper you are now over twice as likely to get the 5:2 draw as you are to get the 2:5 draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T02:13:08.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6030" CreationDate="2012-01-02T04:47:47.857" Score="12" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if someone could explain why this may be bad for white. Engines say white is a 0.5 of a pawn down after this line, but other than stunted development, I do not see a clear way in which black is better. The line is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e4 c5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nf3 Nc6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e5? Qc7 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Qe2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2016" LastEditorUserId="2016" LastEditDate="2012-01-02T04:53:34.337" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T16:49:14.487" Title="New idea in Sicilian for white?" Tags="|chess|openings|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5147" CreationDate="2012-01-02T05:04:03.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always use something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lux%20Cannon&quot;&gt;Lux Cannon&lt;/a&gt; to blow away your Ensnaring Bridge... but you should only do that when you are ready to attack, and know you'll win (or have a backup Ensnaring Bridge in your hand). I'd suggest you use something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bottled%20Cloister&quot;&gt;Bottled Cloister&lt;/a&gt; instead (this will allow you to have a hand during your turn, but remove your hand during your opponents turns.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2248" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T19:37:19.853" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T19:37:19.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-02T08:22:30.650" Score="0" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3397/should-i-trash-copper-or-silver-with-mine&quot;&gt;Should I trash copper or silver with Mine?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In dominion you have the option when the Mine cards are in use to trash a treasure and put a treasure worth 3 more in your hand. In effect you can remove a copper form the game and gain a silver, remove a silver and gain a gold etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a &lt;em&gt;statistical&lt;/em&gt; benefit to rushing towards gold/platinum?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it best to get all of your copper pieces into silver &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; into gold. Or should you focus getting to the highest possible denomination, and keep coppers in your deck (until you have nothing else to &lt;em&gt;Mine&lt;/em&gt; besides copper)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something tells me one is better than the other due to the number of cards one strategy leaves you with, as opposed to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T04:47:24.803" Title="Which exchange of money is best?" Tags="|dominion|statistics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-01-02T09:14:25.693" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5938" CreationDate="2012-01-02T08:44:12.747" Score="24" ViewCount="5296" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I played a game of Forbidden Island last night.  She got the Navigator adventurer, and I was the Explorer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Navigator's special ability is that it can move any other player up to 2 adjacent tiles.  &quot;Adjacent&quot; usually means up/down/left/right, however the Explorer's special ability is that it can move diagonally too, so: Can the navigator move the explorer to adjacent &lt;em&gt;diagonal&lt;/em&gt; tiles, or just the standard up/down/left/right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I hope the answer is 'yes', as we &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; managed to win assuming 'yes' to the above with just 2 tiles left when we got off Fools Landing!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:17:36.000" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:17:36.000" Title="In Forbidden Island, can a Navigator move an Explorer diagonally?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2012-01-02T10:12:20.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, kids like the colorful names for shapes, especially animal names like &quot;tiger's mouth&quot; and &quot;dog's head&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a kid to be happy about continued Go experience, do your best to make sure they're having fun. I'm not saying necessarily that you should let them win, but if you don't &lt;em&gt;make sure they're having fun even when losing!&lt;/em&gt; Hint, compliment good moves, coach a little bit with a smile and a laugh. It can be most fun if you have &gt;1 beginner so they can alternate playing each other and playing you simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like any beginner, start on a small board with simplified rules. There's no need to explain &quot;ko&quot; until it comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the most important thing is enjoyability. A kid who had a good time playing Go will be easy to talk into playing again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T10:12:20.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5937" CreationDate="2012-01-02T10:30:38.080" Score="10" ViewCount="1392" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you buy the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=grand%20market&quot;&gt;Grand Market&lt;/a&gt; in your turn, can you then use spare copper to buy something else? Or does doing so forbid you from having bought the Grand Market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T04:10:39.583" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T23:41:07.163" Title="Can you buy with a copper after buying Grand Market?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5964" CreationDate="2012-01-02T11:17:33.273" Score="16" ViewCount="803" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://littlemetaldog.com/2011/11/28/episode-34-essen-2011-day-four/&quot;&gt;This episode&lt;/a&gt; of The Little Metal Dog Show has an interview with Friedemann Friese where he talks about the design of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/108667/power-grid-the-robots&quot;&gt;Power Grid: The Robots&lt;/a&gt;, and mentions that the robots can do well up to about 10 to 12 cities, but after that do very poorly because that's the point in the game where typically human players have to change their strategy in order to win.  (That part of the interview begins at 20 minutes 50 seconds.)   However, he doesn't go into any detail about what this change typically involves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in how experienced players of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2651/power-grid&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt; would say that their strategy changes at this point in the game?  (I'm a very inexperienced player, although I've loved the games that I've played.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T03:42:44.377" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:42:44.377" Title="How should your strategy in Power Grid change after about 10 to 12 cities?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5935" CreationDate="2012-01-02T11:43:13.080" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Technically, you play all treasure cards you want to use &lt;em&gt;at the beginning of&lt;/em&gt; your buy phase, after which point you cannot play more cards. If you have played any copper, you cannot buy Grand Market, and if you have already bought Grand Market you are into your buy phase already and cannot play any coppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few exceptions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards that give you an extra Buy phase, (e.g., Black Market, Villa). You can play all the Coppers you want in one Buy phase and buy Grand Market in another.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cards that remove treasure cards in play during your Buy phase (e.g., Mint, Bonfire, Counterfeit, Mandarin). If you are able to remove Coppers after playing them (trashing them, or something else like Mandarin), they are no longer in play and you can buy a Grand Market.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, additional exceptions may be created...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2018-12-06T23:41:07.163" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T23:41:07.163" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5933" CreationDate="2012-01-02T12:07:23.040" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question!  And fortunately for you, the answer is &quot;yes&quot;, as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5017773#5017773&quot;&gt;these clarifications&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;by Matt Leacock, the designer of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Navigator can move the Diver up to 2 adjacent tiles. The first&#xA;  tile may be missing. The second tile may not be missing because the&#xA;  Diver must end her turn on a tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the Navigator moves the Explorer to adjacent spaces, he may move&#xA;  him diagonally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Navigator moves the Pilot to adjacent spaces like any other&#xA;  adventurer. (The Pilot can't take advantage of his special ability&#xA;  when the Navigator moves him.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T12:07:23.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-02T13:55:17.690" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend received &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17913/dungeons-dragons-the-haunted-tower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons: The Haunted Tower&lt;/a&gt; for Christmas. Can it be played without the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17533/the-new-easy-to-master-dungeons-dragons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The New Easy to Master Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure that it would be possible to create tokens for characters and such. Though I'm not sure how much The Haunted Tower relies on materials from the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2249" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-03-04T22:32:04.980" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T22:32:04.980" Title="Can The Haunted Tower be played without the base game?" Tags="|house-rules|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6033" CreationDate="2012-01-02T17:59:31.333" Score="4" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Interex appear in the first &lt;em&gt;Horus Heresy&lt;/em&gt; book, &lt;em&gt;Horus Rising&lt;/em&gt; as a branch of humanity heavily influenced by eldar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was forever saddened to hear they never made it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any rules official and/or unofficial rules exist for playing as these? Also do any models/model making guides address making an army of Interex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think either rules similar to the Eldar or Tau would fit, but I have no idea if that would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-01T22:32:46.390" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T22:32:46.390" Title="Is there a Warhammer 40K codex/proxy for the Interex?" Tags="|house-rules|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-02T20:07:33.793" Score="17" ViewCount="5476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Alhambra base game, and now I'm curious about the expansions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what order would you suggest I buy the expansions?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does each one add to the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do the added components affect the gameplay?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to comment about any of them that you have as I know not many people may not have all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T18:31:45.823" Title="I have the Alhambra base set only, in which order should I buy the expansions? " Tags="|expansions|alhambra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5939" CreationDate="2012-01-02T22:42:46.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says right on the back of the box &quot;To play the giant three-part adventure, you must own the Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons game. The bonus board game is playable immediately.&quot; I would think that at the very least you'd need the rule book from the core game and a full set of polyhedral dice to make things work properly if you wanted to play the three-parter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="628" LastActivityDate="2012-01-02T22:42:46.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6303" CreationDate="2012-01-03T00:02:35.413" Score="6" ViewCount="21757" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without taking into account any other packets that might be opened over the course of a game (no spoilers please, only use the starting rules, starting scars, starting stickers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) What is the best starting power for each faction that is likely to result in the most bonus troops or fewest troop losses in the first game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Which faction is the best overall at this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Die Mechaniker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Your starting HQ is always treated as FORTIFIED (+1 to both dice) when you defend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If your defense roll is two natural 6s, that territory cannot be attacked again for the rest of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Saharan Republic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You can make your maneuver at any point during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When making your maneuver, you may maneuver between any two territories you control, even if they are not connected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Imperial Balkania&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) When recruiting troops, round up when dividing your territory and population by 3, not down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You still draw a resource card at the end of a turn where you expanded into 4+ territories, even if you didn't conquer a territory.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Enclave of the Bear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The defender subtracts 1 from his lower defense die in the first territory you attack during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If your attack roll is a natural three of a kind, and at least one defending troop is defeated, you conquer the territory. Remove all defending troops.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Khan Industries&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) At the start of your turn, place one troop in each territory that has an HQ you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When drawing a territory card, you may place one troop into that territory if you control it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T00:53:37.747" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T09:06:44.797" Title="Which Faction Power will result in the greatest bonus troops and/or fewest troop losses?" Tags="|probability|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6607" CreationDate="2012-01-03T00:08:06.483" Score="2" ViewCount="1479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the Winner of a game is able to place their Major City anywhere on the board, even on nice defensive bunker scars...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you place a bunker on the board if you don't believe you are likely to win the first game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this answer change if you are playing a 3, 4, or 5 player game?&#xA;Does this answer change if one or more scars have already been played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(please only take into account staring scars, faction powers, number of players, and starting rules. No spoilers please, and no taking into consideration spoiler packets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting Scars (3 Ammo Shortage (-1 defending high die), 3 Bunker (+1 defending high die))&#xA;Major City - +2 population, you may start here if no enemy HQ is adjacent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T03:42:20.027" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:42:20.027" Title=" Should you play a Bunker Scar if you aren't likely to win the first game?" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-03T06:06:20.737" Score="7" ViewCount="696" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Carcassonne, does the Bazaar in the farm play and count like a cloister in the farm? What about on the road and in a city?  We understand how to initiate the auctions but are not sure how to treat the Bazaar itself and for scoring purposes.  We assume it completes or ends a road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2253" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T21:04:59.033" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:35:09.250" Title="In Carcassonne, how does the Bazaar play and count in different situations?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5945" CreationDate="2012-01-03T07:15:51.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://carcassonnecentral.com/forum/index.php?topic=587.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt;, the Bazaar ends a road, although it is not directly stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It seems clear that a bazaar ends a road in the same way as a crossing or bushes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bazaar itself is not a feature that a meeple can be put on.  It does not count as a cloister.  It doesn't change farm or city scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T19:35:09.250" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:35:09.250" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1739" CreationDate="2012-01-03T13:50:24.657" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;what usually works for me is this recipe - &#xA;2 parts PVA glue&#xA;2 parts gloss varnish (I use the stuff you would varnish, say, a bench with, rather than the one that Games Workshop makes)&#xA;1 part distilled water (it is important to use distilled water because you don't get the minerals from the tap into the water effects).&#xA;This is thin enough so it will apply nicely to a base, but thick enough so that it doesn't flood over the edge (not a problem if you are uiong a Warmachine base!)&#xA;If you are using pre-thinned PVA glue, don't bother with the distilled water - it will be too runny!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make waves - &#xA;2 parts PVA glue&#xA;2 parts gloss Varnish&#xA;1 part white gloss house paint.&#xA;This recipe is a bit thicker and you can tease it up to make waves. If you wanted to, you could add some fine sand to get that foamy texture. Never tried this, but hey, you could always experiment.&#xA;For tinting, either paint the surface that you want to be tinted, then coat it with water effects, or use ENAMEL paint. Don't try to mix anything for the wave Water Effects, and don't mix acrylic paint with the Standard stuff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2254" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T13:50:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5954" CreationDate="2012-01-03T13:52:01.023" Score="36" ViewCount="97323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently began playing a deck that has a number of creatures with lifelink in it.  I want to be certain I understand the mechanic and the following question occurred to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which damage total do you use to determine the life gain from lifelink?  I had assumed that if  a 3/3 creature with lifelink was blocked by a 2/2 creature that the life gain total would be 2, the maximum that the blocker can absorb before dying.  This seems to be incorrect, as when I read the example attached to CR 119.4c &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] attacks with a 3/3 creature with wither and lifelink. It’s blocked by a 2/2 creature, [...]. The damage event starts out as [3 damage is dealt to the 2/2 creature, 2 damage is dealt to the 3/3 creature]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I been short changing myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T02:22:48.830" LastActivityDate="2019-05-31T14:45:05.130" Title="Does a creature with Lifelink provide lifegain equal to its power, or the defender's toughness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5840" CreationDate="2012-01-03T13:52:02.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think your calculations look roughly correct (my calculations disagree at 4 decimal places, but I doubt you're using that many in an actual game!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my calculated probabilities for a single defence die (plus bonus die):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Defender wins 4109/7776: 0.528421&#xA;Attacker wins 3667/7776: 0.471579&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my calculated probabilites for two defence dice (plus bonus die):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Defender wins 22218/46656: 0.476209&#xA;Attacker wins 10767/46656: 0.230774&#xA;Ties 13671/46656: 0.293017&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the sample space is only a few thousand dice rolls I wrote a python script to loop through all of them.  Here's the code for the first calculation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;from itertools import *&#xA;a_score = 0&#xA;d_score = 0&#xA;for a1,a2,a3,d1,db in product(range(6), repeat=5):&#xA;    if max(d1,db) &amp;lt; max(a1,a2,a3):&#xA;        a_score += 1&#xA;    else:&#xA;        d_score += 1&#xA;print 'Defender wins %d/%d: %f'%(d_score, 6**5, float(d_score)/6**5)&#xA;print 'Attacker wins %d/%d: %f'%(a_score, 6**5, float(a_score)/6**5)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the code for the second:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;from itertools import *&#xA;a_score = 0&#xA;d_score = 0&#xA;tie_score = 0&#xA;for a1,a2,a3,d1,d2,db in product(range(6), repeat=6):&#xA;    a_dice = [a1,a2,a3]&#xA;    d_dice = [d1,d2,db]&#xA;    a_dice.sort(reverse=True)&#xA;    d_dice.sort(reverse=True)&#xA;    if d_dice[0] &amp;lt; a_dice[0] and d_dice[1] &amp;lt; a_dice[1]:&#xA;        a_score += 1&#xA;    elif d_dice[0] &amp;gt;= a_dice[0] and d_dice[1] &amp;gt;= a_dice[1]:&#xA;        d_score += 1&#xA;    else:&#xA;        tie_score += 1&#xA;print 'Defender wins %d/%d: %f'%(d_score, 6**6, float(d_score)/6**6)&#xA;print 'Attacker wins %d/%d: %f'%(a_score, 6**6, float(a_score)/6**6)&#xA;print 'Ties %d/%d: %f'%(tie_score, 6**6, float(tie_score)/6**6)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T13:52:02.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5951" CreationDate="2012-01-03T14:00:57.530" Score="27" ViewCount="56947" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;double strike&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; mechanic allows a creature to attack in both a first strike combat damage step and a normal combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clear that when a creature with no other abilities aside from double strike is blocked that even if the defender has lethal damage marked in the first strike step that the additional damage does not carry forward to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this view of double strike change with relation to trample and lifelink?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the correct interpretations are (not accounting for other effects or abilities) that 2 times the attacker's power is marked as damage on the defender.  For trample this amount is reduced by the defender's toughness and additional damage carries forward as normal.  Similarly for lifelink the active player gains life equal to 2 times the attacker's power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus a 10/10 trampling double striking life linker blocked by a 1/1 creature would deal 19 points of trample damage and the active player would gain 20 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this interpretation correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:42:44.657" LastActivityDate="2018-05-30T17:22:02.653" Title="How does the double strike mechanic interact with other mechanics like lifelink or trample?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5950" CreationDate="2012-01-03T15:05:32.247" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to this is actually not as complicated as first appears.  (I'm assuming you  aren't confused about what happens when a trampling, lifelink creature &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; double strike gets blocked.)  It all hinges off the following simple (ish) rule for resolving trample:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.18c If an attacking creature with trample is blocked, but there are no creatures blocking it when damage is assigned, all its damage&#xA;  is assigned to the player or planeswalker it's attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recall that a double striker deals damage in both the first strike combat damage step, and the normal combat damage step.  Now, it may very well be that the blocking creature was dealt lethal damage in the first strike combat damage (and some trample damage may additionally have carried over to the defending player).  In this case,  the blocker is in the graveyard by the time of the normal combat damage step, but, crucially, this doesn't mean that this damage step doesn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the double striker didn't have trample, then the normal combat damage step would be basically irrelevant: the double striker still counts as having been blocked, and blocked creatures deal no damage to the defending player. &lt;strong&gt;ETA: Additionally, the dead blocker is no longer in combat to take more damage (which may be important if the attacking creature had lifelink).&lt;/strong&gt; However, tramplers &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; deal damage to defending players; in fact, any amount of damage that isn't &quot;soaked up&quot; by a defending creature.  Which in this case is all the damage dealt in the normal combat damage step, as the defending creature isn't around to soak up anything.  As suggested by Rule 702.18c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lifelink is a bit of a side issue, I feel: it doesn't change anything in regards to the double strike or trample.   It just gives an equal amount of life to the creature's controller to the damage that creature deals, in either combat damage step, and whether that damage is to a blocking creature or a defending player!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, your interpretation is ultimately correct, I'd say!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T18:19:44.830" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T18:19:44.830" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5948" CreationDate="2012-01-03T15:08:54.813" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have. When a creature with lifelink does damage, you gain life &lt;em&gt;equal to that creature's power&lt;/em&gt;, since that is how much damage it deals (outside of a few corner cases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of a 3/3 lifelink creature being blocked by a 2/2 creature, the 3/3 creature still does 3 damage to the blocking creature, even though 2 damage would be sufficient to kill it. Therefore you gain 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The cases where this does not happen include cases where damage is &lt;em&gt;prevented&lt;/em&gt;, such as if your opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fog&quot;&gt;Fog&lt;/a&gt;, or if the blocking creature has protection from your creature's color.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="15539" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T23:47:42.087" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T23:47:42.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5948" CreationDate="2012-01-03T15:13:02.437" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you've been shortchanging yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.14b Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source's controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much&#xA;life (in addition to any other results that damage causes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with 10 power blocked by a creature with 1 toughness &lt;strong&gt;deals 10 damage&lt;/strong&gt; to that poor little blocker.  Creatures with 10 power are not known for their discretion or moderation; they don't deal 1 damage on the grounds that that will be enough to do the job.  No, they smash that blocker into smithereens and leave behind a smoking crater!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your confusion may arise from the old card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Drain%20Life&quot;&gt;Drain Life&lt;/a&gt;, whose text reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drain Life deals X damage to target creature or player. You gain life&#xA;equal to the damage dealt, but not more life than the player's life&#xA;total before Drain Life dealt damage or the creature's toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drain Life is the exception though, not the rule; for lifelinkers the creature's toughness is irrelevant in determining how much life is gained.  (See also though &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abattoir%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Abattoir Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;, a recent card which offers a kind of new spin on the Drain Life idea.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T22:18:03.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T22:18:03.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5962" CreationDate="2012-01-03T16:41:50.857" Score="5" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Warhammer fantasy, new codecs for the races are released periodically that tweak units' attributes, cost, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 15 years ago I remember comparing two versions of the High Elves codec, which among other changes had increased the cost of a bolt thrower from 50 points to 100 points. I assume this is because the weapon was under-priced at 50 and 100 was a more fair and balanced valuation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is against the rules (either explicitly or in terms of etiquette) to build an army using  an older version of a codec? For example to take advantage of the cheaper bolt throwers at the cost of not being able to use any of the material in the newer book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Obviously anything that a given play-group decides is acceptable they can do; I'm asking in the context of official tournaments or an event where strangers would be playing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T21:51:39.323" Title="In Warhammer fantasy, is it permissible to make an army using an old version of a race's codec?" Tags="|etiquette|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2012-01-03T20:01:42.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are simply trying to determine which resource is the most abundant, can't you just count the remaining resource cards? Isn't that public knowledge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, that would make this tactic unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="608" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T20:01:42.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5958" CreationDate="2012-01-03T20:12:57.107" Score="9" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I control both &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=124471&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Life and Limb&lt;/a&gt; - am I correct in assuming that my Forest Saprolings do not get +2/+2 from the Muraganda Petroglyphs, because they have a mana ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, they are forests, and rule 305.6 states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.6.&lt;/strong&gt; The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the words &quot;basic land type,&quot; it's referring to one of these subtypes. A land with a basic land type has the intrinsic ability &quot;{T}: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,&quot; even if the text box doesn't actually contain that text or the object has no text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is {W}; for Islands, {U}; for Swamps, {B}; for Mountains, {R}; and for Forests, {G}. See rule 107.4a. Also see rule 605, &quot;Mana Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:42:34.283" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T22:01:08.630" Title="What counts as an ability for the purposes of Muraganda Petroglyphs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5957" CreationDate="2012-01-03T20:45:22.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130614&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; has the following ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Animated basic lands have mana abilities, so they won't get the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your assumption is correct: any land that has become a creature does not get the bonus from  Muraganda Petroglyphs (except in the rare case where the land has &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; its mana ability -- and I'm not aware of any card that actually does this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T20:50:44.870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T20:50:44.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5966" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:21:02.280" Score="7" ViewCount="7644" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand how duplicate bridge works, but I'm still missing one small conceptual part of the scoring, being the outcome when a deal is passed out. Is the score for that hand just assumed to be 0 for both sides, making it identical to a hand that happened to have a 0 score? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if some tables play the hand and score highly where others just don't play it since they all passed? Are certain measure taken in the creation of the hands to avoid deals that are likely to be passed out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:17:24.917" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T14:31:35.360" Title="What happens when a deal is passed out in Duplicate Bridge Tournaments?" Tags="|bridge|scoring|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5961" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:21:52.797" Score="3" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at a friend of a friend's house last weekend and played a cool game.  Here is what I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is played on a square board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 or 4 players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The goal of the game is to reach the opposite side of the board from which you start (before your opponent(s))&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On your turn you may&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) Move you piece forwards/backwards/left/right (not diagonal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) Place a barrier which you and your opponent cannot cross.  A barrier is a length two piece that goes between squares.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="303" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-03T21:38:56.600" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T21:38:56.600" Title="Identify the Game: reach the other side of the board, while avoiding barriers" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-16T22:59:18.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5960" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:33:35.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you are describing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/624/quoridor&quot;&gt;Quoridor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This abstract strategy is surprisingly deep for its simple rules. The&#xA;  object of the game is to advance your pawn to the opposite edge of the&#xA;  board. On your turn you may either move your pawn or place a wall. You&#xA;  may hinder your opponent with wall placement, but not completely block&#xA;  him off. Meanwhile, he is trying to do the same to you. First pawn to&#xA;  reach the opposite side wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2559/blockade&quot;&gt;Blockade&lt;/a&gt;, but unlike Quoridor, the board for that one isn't square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T21:33:35.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5955" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:51:39.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every tournament has its own specific rules, but I've never seen one that hasn't required the use of the latest/greatest rules sets available, both for the game itself and the army. There are often additional restrictions, e.g. banned items or characters, troop limits etc, as well as model requirements (minimal painting requirements, no use of non-GW models, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several good reasons to require the latest rules for a tournament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone is on a level playing field (tournament organiser understands the environment)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone knows exactly what to expect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army list checking and meta game preparation is much simpler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strange, unbalanced or just broken loopholes from previous editions are obsolete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games Workshop gets you to spend more money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T21:51:39.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5868" CreationDate="2012-01-03T21:56:15.500" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com/forum/view/general/nine-queens#&quot;&gt;This thread contains a set of sample games.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="540" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T21:56:15.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5936" CreationDate="2012-01-03T22:23:40.073" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been a little while since I have played Power Grid, but I will take a stab at this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early and mid-game the decisions that have to be made are fairly straightforward and tactical like improving power plant efficiency/capacity and expanding into reasonably priced cities.  Power plant prices are generally based on their expected monetary output for the medium length duration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards the end of the game, players need to more seriously plan out the how they will get to the last turn of the game by optimizing power plants, carefully selecting which cities to expand into, and budgeting and/or hoarding resources to ensure production.  The decisions are more subtle and tend to interleave with the decisions of the other players in ways that can be difficult to model.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, buying a power plant in the end game usually has very little to do with how much money it will make.  Instead, making sure you can power the target number of cities in paramount and, in some cases, making sure a rival cannot power the target number of cities is also a factor.  Because of the way the power plant deck is stacked, there is a lot of information that human players can remember that a robot player cannot easily track, like the odds that the next power plant to appear will meet the needs of a player currently bidding.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example would be in how to expand a network in the late game.  Sometimes there is more value in spending extra money to limit the options of another player even though a cheaper city is available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe these are the types of changes in focus late in the game that make a simple procedural robot difficult to create.  The economic engine building and expansion phase of the game is just straightforward, but how that engine is leveraged to create a victory is tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="770" LastActivityDate="2012-01-03T22:23:40.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2012-01-04T00:05:30.017" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I understand how duplicate bridge works, but I'm still missing one small conceptual part of the scoring, being the outcome when a deal is passed out. Is the score for that hand just assumed to be 0 for both sides&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Why would there be an exception? Passing out the hand is a perfectly valid way to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;making it identical to a hand that happened to have a 0 score? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no other ways to have a 0 (raw) score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What happens if some tables play the hand and score highly where others just don't play it since they all passed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual rules for converting score to matchpoints (or team IMPs, if you use those) apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are certain measure taken in the creation of the hands to avoid deals that are likely to be passed out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It's not a TD's responsibility to speculate on how a hand is likely to be played before play occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2234" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T00:05:30.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5969" CreationDate="2012-01-04T00:28:27.817" Score="5" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Cargo Noir&lt;/em&gt;, when one sends ships to the ports to bid on the cargo there, is it valid to bid zero coins?  The wording of the rules in various places seems to expect that at least one coin is always there, but we couldn't find anything that flat-out says so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="1530" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T21:01:17.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T21:01:17.697" Title="Is it valid to bid on a cargo with zero coins?" Tags="|cargo-noir|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5967" CreationDate="2012-01-04T02:07:51.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a zero coin bid is not valid. This was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/627117/bidding-0-on-ports&quot;&gt;asked on BGG&lt;/a&gt;, and the clarification &quot;no you cannot&quot; is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/Erich&quot;&gt;Eric Hautemont&lt;/a&gt;, one of the game designers at Days of Wonder (who produced the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T02:07:51.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5971" CreationDate="2012-01-04T03:24:09.703" Score="15" ViewCount="4289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played with a friend who said you can use the maritime harbor to trade 2:1 in both directions. I said this wasn't true, but couldn't disprove him in the rule book. The rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The exchange rate of 2:1 only applies to the resource shown on the harbor location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you're on a 2:1 wood trade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) You can trade 2 wood cards for 1 grain/ore/sheep/brick card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) You can trade 2 cards for 1 wood card. (2 grain for 1 wood. 2 brick for 1 wood etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you only do (1), (2), or both. &lt;strong&gt;Which is correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2255" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T14:04:41.163" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T18:17:34.477" Title="Maritime Trading both ways?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5970" CreationDate="2012-01-04T03:35:28.490" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/2-catan-boardgame/943-trade-what-is-the-meaning-of-the-resource-symbols-on-some-harbor-hexes.html&quot;&gt;Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trade - What is the meaning of the resource symbols on some harbor&#xA;  hexes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt; The special harbor hexes always show the resource type of which&#xA;  you have to discard 2 units in order to receive one different resource&#xA;  or one commodity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it only works one way - the way you expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T03:35:28.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2012-01-04T04:34:25.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the way &quot;veto mode&quot; works over on &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isotropic&lt;/a&gt;. With &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; players &lt;code&gt;10+n&lt;/code&gt; cards are randomly selected, and then each player chooses 1 to remove before the game starts. You could obviously adapt this for vetoing additional cards per person and combine it with randomizers or other methods of selecting the starting cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T04:34:25.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5858" CreationDate="2012-01-04T08:20:56.637" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran a script to calculate probabilities of attacker losing two troops (D wins), defender losing two troops (A wins) and each losing one troop (Tie).  The following table shows these probabilities, along with the difference from standard play in brackets.  The final column shows the troop loss ratio per die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Number of  | Win Probabilities (Difference due to bunker)            | Troop loss ratio&#xA; Dice      |                                                         | (A loss : D loss)&#xA;-----------+---------------------------------------------------------+------------------&#xA;D: 1, A: 1 | D: 0.722 (+0.139), T: 0.000 (+0.000), A: 0.278 (-0.139) | 0.722 : 0.278&#xA;D: 2, A: 1 | D: 0.861 (+0.116), T: 0.000 (+0.000), A: 0.139 (-0.116) | 0.861 : 0.139&#xA;D: 1, A: 2 | D: 0.583 (+0.162), T: 0.000 (+0.000), A: 0.417 (-0.162) | 0.583 : 0.417&#xA;D: 2, A: 2 | D: 0.533 (+0.085), T: 0.320 (-0.004), A: 0.147 (-0.081) | 0.693 : 0.307&#xA;D: 1, A: 3 | D: 0.506 (+0.166), T: 0.000 (+0.000), A: 0.494 (-0.166) | 0.506 : 0.494&#xA;D: 2, A: 3 | D: 0.352 (+0.060), T: 0.408 (+0.073), A: 0.239 (-0.132) | 0.556 : 0.443&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at each pair of rows then you can compare the defender rolling one or two dice.  In each case the defender's troop loss per die roll is decreased by rolling two dice, so it is always theoretically better to roll two dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T08:20:56.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5975" CreationDate="2012-01-04T08:43:45.067" Score="5" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, can I play my treasure cards first, and watchtower last to gain more cards? I tried this last night, and my friend read the rule that says you only play treasure cards in your buy phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:40:16.520" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T17:40:16.520" Title="Abusing my watchtower?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5974" CreationDate="2012-01-04T09:25:35.720" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is correct.  You may only play treasure cards during your buy phase, at which point you are no longer able to play action cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T09:25:35.720" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5979" CreationDate="2012-01-04T15:20:48.407" Score="13" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's suppose there are creatures in play and someone plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4881&quot; title=&quot;All creatures lose all abilities and are 1/1.&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clear that all the creatures lose their abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this situation changed if &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=208262&quot; title=&quot;Creatures you control have double strike and lifelink.&quot;&gt;True Conviction&lt;/a&gt; were in play?  Is the situation changed if True Conviction were played after Humility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the solution to this question that the card with the newest time stamp is in effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:42:18.200" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:42:18.200" Title="When two card texts confict, which takes priority?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5978" CreationDate="2012-01-04T15:54:17.320" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this situation changed if True Conviction were in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the situation changed if True Conviction were played after Humility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Each creature of the controller of True Conviction will be a 1/1 creature with Lifelink and Double Strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the solution to this question that the card with the newest time stamp is in effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Section 613. Interaction of Continuous Effects of the Magic Comprehensive rules describes the order continuous effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;613. Interaction of Continuous Effects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1. The values of an object's characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. For a token or a copy of a spell or card, that means the values of the characteristics defined by the effect that created it. Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1a Layer 1: Copy effects are applied. See rule 706, &amp;quot;Copying Objects.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1b Layer 2: Control-changing effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1c Layer 3: Text-changing effects are applied. See rule 612, &amp;quot;Text-Changing Effects.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1d Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object's card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1e Layer 5: Color-changing effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1f Layer 6: Ability-adding and ability-removing effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1g Layer 7: Power- and/or toughness-changing effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Humility is an ability-removing and power/toughness changing effect. True Conviction is an ability adding effect. Since both effects use the same layer 6 and aren't dependent upon one another, the order the effects are applied is done in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.5. If an effect should be applied in different layers and/or sublayers, the parts of the effect each apply in their appropriate ones. If an effect starts to apply in one layer and/or sublayer, it will continue to be applied to the same set of objects in each other applicable layer and/or sublayer, even if the ability generating the effect is removed during this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the power changing effect of Humility will always be applied last, no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T15:54:17.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6084" CreationDate="2012-01-04T17:38:40.223" Score="9" ViewCount="17930" Body="&lt;p&gt;A white swarm/pump deck is a deck with a lot of small, inexpensive white creatures that are subsequently improved by enchantments such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233237&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;White creatures you control get +1/+1.&quot;&gt;Honor of the Pure&lt;/a&gt; or other bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of this deck is to kill off the opponent before they can develop their strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What deck types are effective in countering this sort of deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T14:41:20.227" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:20:15.647" Title="What general strategy exists for countering a white swarm/pump deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5983" CreationDate="2012-01-04T17:52:28.377" Score="8" ViewCount="1429" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what point do creatures entering the battlefield begin to be affected by enchantments and abilities of creatures already on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mentor%20of%20the%20Meek&quot;&gt;Mentor of the Meek&lt;/a&gt;'s ability triggers when creatures of power 2 or less enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play a 2/2 creature while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Honor%20of%20the%20Pure&quot;&gt;Honor of the Pure&lt;/a&gt; is in play does the Mentor's ability trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly if I play a 2/2 human creature while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mayor%20of%20Avabruck&quot;&gt;Mayor of Avabruck&lt;/a&gt; is in play (face up) does the Mentor's ability trigger? (It clearly has no effect if the card is transformed (face down) and the Mentor's ability would trigger.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-05-03T02:04:14.980" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T21:44:13.207" Title="How do continuous effects interact with &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; triggers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5981" CreationDate="2012-01-04T18:15:33.347" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I play a 2/2 creature while Honor of the Pure is in play does the Mentor's ability trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Similarly if I play a 2/2 human creature while Mayor of Avabruck is in play (face up) does the Mentor's ability trigger? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield (and not before then). The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified characteristics. Continuous effects don’t apply before the permanent is on the battlefield, however (see rule 603.6d). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the ramifications if there is a continuous effect that reduced the power of creatures. You could draw a card if you played a 3/3 creature and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNight%5d%2b%5bof%5d%2b%5bSouls%27%5d%2b%5bBetrayal%5d&quot;&gt;Night of Souls&amp;#39; Betrayal&lt;/a&gt; was in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2018-12-23T21:44:13.207" LastActivityDate="2018-12-23T21:44:13.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="5984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="5989" CreationDate="2012-01-04T18:47:33.097" Score="9" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is a good time to start collecting victory points... is it good to wait until toward the end, or seldomly through the beginning of the game?  The tradeoff too early is they can clog up your deck, but too late then you can't acquire enough victory points to win the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any strategies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-04T19:23:52.530" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T02:26:22.677" Title="When should I start collecting Victory Points in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2012-01-04T18:48:48.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've ever got just one other player or split into a group of 2, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memoir '44&lt;/a&gt; is a great game. It's a WWII-themed game that's scenario-based, with 16 coming in the box and more available on the publisher's website (you can also create your own, if you're feeling ambitious). Not all of the scenarios are balanced between the Axis and the Allies, but the publisher's site has win/loss percentages for each scenario based on logged plays, so I've been using that data as a handicap to balance the matches when my experience doesn't match my opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup looks intimidating, but I played my first game, including setup and rules explanation, in about 45 minutes. There are also rules to play on two teams with up to 8 people if you've got expansions and/or two copies of the base game; I haven't tried this, but I've read that it takes more than an hour, so that might not work for a lunch thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T18:48:48.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:00:30.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2453/blokus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blokus&lt;/a&gt; is an outstanding game that's also very easy to track down, as it's available in most big-box stores. Each player gets an assortment of Tetris-like pieces in a single color, and must place one per turn if they can. Each piece placed must touch at least one piece of that color - but only at the corners. That's pretty much it for the rules, but this is a tense experience with quite a bit of depth and no randomness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest downside is that it's very clearly designed to be a 4 player game (though I'm told that there are a couple of 2-player variants that are worthwhile). I haven't played it, but I've been told that Blokus Trigon works well for 3 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:00:30.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:07:33.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5782/coloretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coloretto&lt;/a&gt; is probably the best short game I've ever played - most games should take no more than 15 minutes to play. It's a card game in which you're trying to collect cards in different color groups. The more cards you have in any given color, the more points that group is worth at the end of the game - but only 3 colors (chosen at the end) count as positive points, and any other groups count as negative points. It's very simple to play and is the only game I've played I'd recommend without hesitation to anyone who has never played a &quot;hobby&quot; board game before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same designer later released Zooloretto, which is a board game adaptation that adds a little bit of complexity and playing time (though still straightforward and would still be appropriate for lunchtime board games) that I think is equally good. I'd probably always recommend Coloretto first, since it's cheaper, faster to play and more portable, but if you like Coloretto and/or want something with a little bit more depth to it, Zooloretto is also worth checking out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:07:33.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5984" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:15:30.360" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is really dependent on the Kingdom cards available and no overreaching general rule can be made without a lot of major caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One good strategy would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always buy a province when you can afford it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4573/if-i-have-8-coins-and-no-gold-should-i-buy-a-gold-or-a-province&quot;&gt;(Unless you don't have a gold yet, and the game is still young)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start buying Duchies once one pile is empty if you think the game will end by 3 piles disappearing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5848/dominion-when-playing-the-big-money-strategy-when-should-you-switch-from-buyin&quot;&gt;Start buying Duchies once half the provinces are gone&lt;/a&gt; if you think the game will end by province depletion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start buying Estates when you think you have at most one shuffle left in the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is general advice and specific cards can change things up drastically!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T20:13:21.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3093" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:17:12.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's an interesting idea. I haven't tried this myself, but I'm not certain I'd personally want to. I agree with your assessment that having two characters that benefit blue and red districts but only one that benefit green or yellow could be problematic, mostly because all card draws are random (well, unless you've got a good memory and Magician frequently). However, if you don't use those extra cards, you're disproportionately increasing the percentage of &quot;attack&quot; characters, which seems like it would slow the game down (though, as you say, selecting two characters each turn would speed the game up, so I guess maybe it would even out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as being detrimental, I suppose it depends on what you like about Citadels. I personally think the attacks are at just the right frequency already and wouldn't want to introduce much more chaos into the game than already exists in the design. Then again, if you like the wild swing aspects and your group plays this primarily as a &quot;take that&quot; style game, I'd imagine this would work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:17:12.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4034" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:30:44.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My house rule for multiple games is to remove every pile that was used (i.e., had at least one card gained from it) and leave in everything no one touched during the game for the next round. It helps keep people from getting into a rut, and ensures that cards that are eclipsed by a dominant combo (or groupthink) get a chance to get used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:30:44.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2012-01-04T19:41:26.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to increase variability without impacting game length is to focus on the aspects of the expansions that do not involve tile drawing. For example, you could use the base set (with or without the River), the large followers from I&amp;amp;C, and the builder and pig pieces from T&amp;amp;B, which would add most of the options without changing the length of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T19:41:26.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1988" CreationDate="2012-01-04T20:34:41.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/10630/memoir-44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memoir '44&lt;/a&gt; is a scenario-based 2-player game, but if you have either 2 copies of the base game or certain expansions, you can play a 4v4 team game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played the team version (called Overlord), but I love the 2-player one and am looking forward to trying it. In the 2 player game, the board is divided into three sections, and my impression is that in the 4v4 Overlord version, 1 player controls each flank and the 4th player is kind of a &quot;general&quot; directing the overall forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T20:34:41.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2012-01-04T21:51:20.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap board wipers, cards that grant card advantage (ie taking out 2 or more of their cards while only spending one of yours).  A well placed shock can kill a creature and 1-2 enchantments (depending on what they are).  Walls also help (low attack, high defense creatures).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures that can trade up also help.  For instance, a Typhoid rat can kill anything without regenerate or indestructable.  Ambush viper is another one that's good for luring in prime targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, cards that punish opponents for attacking help.  Circle of Flame can kill off a white weenie horde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, anything that you can drop on the field or use to trade up card advantage will help you survive against a white weenie long enough to gather your resources together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T21:51:20.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="5999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1669" CreationDate="2012-01-04T22:54:55.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll join Josh in recommending Magic the Gathering, and I did used to play that over lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while only for 2 players, a 13x13 Go game is normally well under a half hour if everyone maintains a decent play rate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T22:54:55.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6002" CreationDate="2012-01-04T23:23:46.840" Score="5" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, when we're playing Twilight Imperium, if we're in a tight spot or a position to advance, our play group tends to pick the strategy that will help their board position (for instance, Diplomacy) over an available Imperial, but this doesn't necessarily seem optimal.  You do get an advantage on the board, however, those two victory points are now someone else's.  Should you always take Imperial if you can, even if it seems like another strategy will help you more on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:16:22.757" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:16:22.757" Title="In vanilla Twilight Imperium 3rd ed., should you always take Imperial if it's available?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2012-01-04T23:37:21.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Giving the weaker player 3 train cards per turn instead of 2 has created balanced, competitive (2 and 3 player) games for us, with everyone trying their hardest. Face up locomotives (wild cards) count as 2 train cards, but count as 1 if blindly drawn from the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minor side effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face up wild cards get depleted quickly by the weaker player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The weaker player can (and does) more easily block routes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T03:07:35.283" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T03:07:35.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6000" CreationDate="2012-01-04T23:46:15.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For straight Twilight Imperium, unless you are at a guaranteed win, your first two choices are Imperial, followed by Initiative. If you don't take either of those, then you'll essentiall get skipped over the circle and be two points behind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T23:46:15.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5772" CreationDate="2012-01-04T23:55:08.183" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In games I play where 2 of the players are very experienced and 1-2 players are less experienced/cutthroat, then much advice is freely given/taken and that pretty much solves it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say my 6 year old son really needs a brick to build a settlement and he has an unneeded sheep and 2 ores. I may offer him the brick for 2 ores and a sheep but then the other experienced player suggests he think twice about that offer as he noticed I have a bit of wheat so that would probably give me a city and extend my lead. My son then might (or might not) take that advice and negotiate or trade with someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's helpful to educate newer players that they can exploit being behind in the game. In later parts of the game you'll get offered generous trades while those who are in the lead will be embargoed. Again - with the advice flowing around - we encourage those who are behind to drive hard bargains if they're doing a trade with someone who is far ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of the robber and trade embargoes can more than overcome cut throat behavior so after a few games, most cut throat players realize they're better off not being so cutthroat if they don't want to be embargoed and have the robber placed on them for so much of each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-04T23:55:08.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8983" CreationDate="2012-01-05T01:00:41.573" Score="4" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you've played Ren Faire with the same group for a while, the performance requirements seem old.  All of us have had to bellydance, act like a hyper kid, etc, etc.  I suppose we could crank out some more ideas for performances, but I'm wondering how others have kept it fresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you keep the performances from being &quot;same old thing?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T01:37:49.673" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T03:30:57.577" Title="How can we keep Ren Faire fresh?" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5984" CreationDate="2012-01-05T02:26:22.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's safe to say that, unless you have a very specific strategy that can put deck clogging victory cards to use, you'll never want to buy them early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most crucial aspect is your opponents deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are tuning your deck into something that might be able to buy a Province every turn, then you can hold off till your opponent buys the first Province (assuming their deck is not as good as yours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent is ahead of you, or you can see that they will eventually have a deck you cannot compete with - time to get creative and start buying earlier, hopefully in ways that will allow you to acquire victory points steadily and not slow you down late (at which point your opponents deck will probably be even more powerful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T02:26:22.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6007" CreationDate="2012-01-05T03:29:06.473" Score="3" ViewCount="9524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the USA 1910 expansion for the US version of Ticket To Ride.  It comes with a few new cards including &quot;Trans America Express&quot;.  What is the Trans America Express card for, and how does one earn it?  (The route on the picture looks really hard!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T21:24:41.673" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T21:24:41.673" Title="What is the Trans America Express card for?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6006" CreationDate="2012-01-05T04:00:57.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Trans America Express card replaces the Longest Path card in the original game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving players a replacement larger set of cards gave the designers license to make a couple changes.  The name change you noted is one.  Also 4 Destination Tickets had their rewards lowered to be in line with the rest of the destinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T04:00:57.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2012-01-05T05:20:04.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of four kinds of cards often employed to beat a white weenie deck, or in general any fast creature-based strategy. Roughly in (decreasing) order of effectiveness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board sweepers (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249660&quot;&gt;Rolling Temblor&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targeted burn spells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life gain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most decks already have one or more of these elements. When you're playing against a white weenie deck, these are the &quot;impact cards&quot; you should focus on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing that usually distinguishes white weenie decks from other fast creature decks is that white weenies tend to have abilities, like first strike or protection, that make them more effective in combat than similarly-costed creatures in other colors. So if you are playing a non-white fast creature deck against a white weenie deck, your blockers may not be as effective as they ordinarily would, and you should try to use other aspects of your deck to combat the white creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that it's more effective to get rid of the white deck's creatures than it is to get rid of the pump enchantments like Honor of the Pure. After all, if you eliminate the enchantments, the creatures will be smaller but they are still a threat. On the other hand, Honor of the Pure is useless by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T05:20:04.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6013" CreationDate="2012-01-05T09:19:29.237" Score="46" ViewCount="23099" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Motivation&lt;/strong&gt;: I once had one surplus card on my hand, and knew the robbers would come soon. So I gave it to someone for free, to avoid losing more cards when they hit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was surprised by how badly this was received. Two of the three other players (the hosts of the game) acted upset, like I had tried to cheat. I had to take the card back, get robbed the next turn and 'giving cards away for free' was banned immediately. &lt;em&gt;(Oh, how I hate mid-game additions to the rules. But that's beside the point.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now the &lt;strong&gt;question&lt;/strong&gt;: Is this really illegal in Settlers of Catan? Is it generally considered underhanded in any way? If so, why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning was like this:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Consider players &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; wants to give &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; a &lt;em&gt;sheep&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; trades a &lt;em&gt;sheep&lt;/em&gt; and one &lt;em&gt;rock&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;, in exchange for &lt;em&gt;wheat&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; trades the received &lt;em&gt;wheat&lt;/em&gt; for the (formerly his) &lt;em&gt;rock&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; now both have the same resources they had in the beginning, only the &lt;em&gt;sheep&lt;/em&gt; has moved from &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T17:16:29.030" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T12:56:15.287" Title="Is giving resources away for free allowed?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2012-01-05T09:32:01.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played this game only a few weeks ago in Sweden! I went over to a friend's place for Christmas, and after dinner her family pulled out this really old game from Finland, just as you described! Using coins, 8 or 9 levels, with wooden obstacles to increase difficulty. You can play in teams (we did men vs women), and each player has 5 attempts to get the coin across the obstacle and into the scoring zone (the hole itself, or numbered sectors around it). After 5 failed attempts, you get 9 points. Hole-in-one is 1 point. Like golf, highest amount of points loses. It was a lot of fun! I forget what it was called... I'll ask my friend and get back to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2264" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T09:32:01.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6009" CreationDate="2012-01-05T10:28:03.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an 'official' rule against this idea, since one player is unfairly favored over the others, and it may create trouble in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my games, we usually avoid this issue by trading 2:1 (with a player) to a resource you need anyway. If you got any 2:1 ports to reduce your number of cards, use those instead as it is fair to everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Assume you intend to build a city, but have two extra sheep you don't need and lack a wheat. Your number of cards adds up to 8. Simply trade the sheep 2:1 with someone to wheat and you'll not only avoid the robber, you'll also make progress towards your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, this pretty much only applies in the early game when you're unlikely to get many resources per turn. Later, when you've already got a number of towns built, you'll get new cards almost every turn so giving away one of them is less important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-11-24T17:11:20.420" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T17:11:20.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6009" CreationDate="2012-01-05T10:56:15.503" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/2-catan-boardgame/939-trade-can-i-give-away-resources-or-buy-services-with-them-for-example-to-avoid-being-bothered-by-the-robber.html&quot;&gt;official Settlers of Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trade - Can I give away resources or buy services with them, for&#xA;  example, to avoid being bothered by the robber?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No. On Catan, a trade always involves a give and take of resources.&#xA;  Consequently, Catan’s trade law does not contain a “trade” of&#xA;  something for nothing or for immaterial goods such as services.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; get around this by doing the 2:1 then 1:1 trades, it violates the spirit of the rules and would be looked down upon by your fellow players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1813" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T10:56:15.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6009" CreationDate="2012-01-05T10:59:19.923" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an official rule against this practice. This is stated twice in the Almanac section of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/sites/prod/files/2021-06/catan_base_rules_2020_200707.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the 5th Edition rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, in both the &lt;strong&gt;Domestic Trade&lt;/strong&gt; section on page 7 and the &lt;strong&gt;Trade&lt;/strong&gt; section on page 14:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Domestic Trade&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, you may trade resources with the other players&#xA;(after rolling for resource production). You and the other&#xA;players negotiate the terms of your trades—such as which&#xA;cards will be exchanged. You may trade as many times as you&#xA;can, using single or multiple cards. &lt;strong&gt;However, you cannot give&#xA;away cards, or trade matching resources (“trade” 3 ore for 1&#xA;ore, for example).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Trade&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you roll for resource production, you may trade with&#xA;other players (domestic trade Y) or with the bank (maritime&#xA;trade Y).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may trade as long as you have resource cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you decide not to trade during your turn,&#xA;no one can trade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may trade with another player between your turns,&#xA;but only if it is that player’s turn and they elect to trade&#xA;with you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not trade with the bank during another&#xA;player’s turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may not give away cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not trade development cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may not trade like resources (e.g., 2 wool for 1 wool).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that you can &amp;quot;effectively&amp;quot; give away cards by cunning sequences of &amp;quot;legitimate&amp;quot; trades, but it seems clear that this isn't really in the spirit of the game, and players should feel free to frown upon such sharp practice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="11511" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T12:56:15.287" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T12:56:15.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8524" CreationDate="2012-01-05T15:12:56.387" Score="33" ViewCount="8606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played fewer than a dozen games but have noticed that I can now guess with about 75% accuracy whether I'll win or not just based on my initial 3 tickets drawn. If I have a long transcontinental route and a shorter one which partially overlaps it, I'll probably win (discard the 3rd card). Same if I have two medium routes that together make a long transcontinental route. On the other hand, if I have 3 very short routes, I'll probably lose. It's even worse if the 3 short routes don't come close to overlapping or stringing together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategy can be used to overcome initial bad tickets? Any rule alteration suggestions for reducing this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T04:30:45.063" LastActivityDate="2019-01-01T04:24:29.860" Title="In Ticket to Ride, how do you overcome bad initial tickets?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-01-05T15:27:25.887" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that situation, I would recommend getting rid of one of the three, and then drawing additional tickets immediately.  These additional tickets will either give you your corresponding transcontinental route to put you in the situation you like, or give you a bunch more short routes, some of which likely correspond with the ones you already have.  If none of them work, keep one, and then draw additional tickets again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want to do this early, because it is possible that you will end up needing to not go for one of your short routes at all.  While it hurts to lose points from a ticket, it can be offset if you complete enough other ones, and it is better than just completing some disconnected short routes and then relying on a lucky ticket draw at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T15:27:25.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6017" CreationDate="2012-01-05T15:54:00.260" Score="41" ViewCount="44264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my opponent plays a spell like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221550&quot;&gt;Fireball&lt;/a&gt;. It is put on the stack. I cast a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227676&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; in response. My opponent does nothing in return. The Snapcaster Mage resolves first and it seems like I can play any card in my graveyard now like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241831&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt; to counter the fireball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I really do this after the resolving of spells on the stack has begun? Or must the stack be empty before I can put new spells on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:40:19.310" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T14:00:43.130" Title="Can I cast a spell after a certain part of the stack is resolved in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6016" CreationDate="2012-01-05T16:01:03.227" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Initially I forgot that Snapcaster Mage has Flash. Oops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do this. The resolution goes like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fireball is cast, put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you put Snapcaster Mage on the stack. (Which you can only do, of course, because it has Flash and can be cast as an instant.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put nothing more on the stack, your opponent declines to put anything else on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because both players pass priority, stack starts resolving in Last In First Out order. Snapcaster Mage resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggered ability of Snapcaster Mage is put on the stack. You choose Mana Leak as the target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority. Last effect on stack resolves, Mana Leak gains flashback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Mana Leak is an instant (IMPORTANT) you can now pay the flashback cost (in this case same as the casting cost) to put Mana Leak on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority. Mana Leak resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent must now pay {3} or Fireball is countered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important bit to remember is that yes, as usual, you can put spells/effects on the stack at any time even after spells have started to be resolved, &lt;strong&gt;as long as&lt;/strong&gt; said spells/effects can be cast at &quot;instant speed&quot;, not &quot;sorcery speed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Rules&quot;&gt;comprehensive rule&lt;/a&gt; which answers your question &quot;Can I really do this after the resolving of spells on the stack has begun?&quot; is &lt;strong&gt;116.3.&lt;/strong&gt; which determines when players have priority and I will paraphrase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Active player gets priority at the beginning of steps and phases (after &quot;beginning of&quot; triggered abilities are put on the stack.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Active player gets priority after a spell/ability on the stack resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player gets priority after they put a spell/ability on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a player passes priority, the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the priority rules make it clear that there is always a chance to respond even after spells on the stack start resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-01-05T18:05:45.867" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T18:05:45.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6016" CreationDate="2012-01-05T16:21:00.113" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Wizards rejigged the way the stack worked (for 6th edition? a long time ago, anyway), one of the fun examples I recall was: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 puts Armageddon on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response to Armageddon, Player 2 sacrifices all his lands to Zuran Orb.  This resolves.  Armageddon is once again at the top of the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response to Armageddon, Player 1 now Counterspells (his own!) Armageddon.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always found this really helpful as a visualisation aid to the stack, and the fact that you keep removing things from it one at a time (by resolving them), first in last out, &lt;em&gt;but only&lt;/em&gt; as long as neither player wants to add a new thing to the top of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T16:21:00.113" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6016" CreationDate="2012-01-05T17:03:36.187" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer: You resolve effects on the stack one at a time, and everyone gets a chance to put new stuff on the stack before you resolve the next effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More detailed answer: The Magic comp rules use a system called &quot;priority&quot; to determine when you have a chance to play abilities and put stuff on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Generally speaking, you can always respond to an event that changes the game state, but players get to do so in a defined order.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our shared convenience,I'm going to blockquote all of section 116, Timing and Priority, and then mark the critical parts in &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116. Timing and Priority&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1. Unless a spell or ability is instructing a player to take an action, which player can take actions at&#xA;         any given time is determined by a system of priority. The player with priority may cast spells,&#xA;         activate abilities, and take special actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1a &lt;strong&gt;A player may cast an instant spell any time he or she has priority. A player may cast a&#xA;             noninstant spell during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is&#xA;             empty.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1b A player may activate an activated ability any time he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1c A player may take some special actions any time he or she has priority. A player may take&#xA;             other special actions during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is&#xA;             empty. See rule 115, “Special Actions.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1d &lt;strong&gt;A player may activate a mana ability whenever he or she has priority, whenever he or she is&#xA;             casting a spell or activating an ability that requires a mana payment, or whenever a rule or effect&#xA;             asks for a mana payment (even in the middle of casting or resolving a spell or activating or&#xA;             resolving an ability)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2. Other kinds of abilities and actions are automatically generated or performed by the game rules,&#xA;         or are performed by players without receiving priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2a Triggered abilities can trigger at any time, including while a spell is being cast, an ability is&#xA;             being activated, or a spell or ability is resolving. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&#xA;             However, nothing actually happens at the time an ability triggers. &lt;strong&gt;Each time a player would&#xA;             receive priority, each ability that has triggered but hasn’t yet been put on the stack is put on the&#xA;             stack.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2b Static abilities continuously affect the game. Priority doesn’t apply to them. (See rule 604,&#xA;             “Handling Static Abilities,” and rule 611, “Continuous Effects.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2c Turn-based actions happen automatically when certain steps or phases begin. They’re dealt&#xA;          with before a player would receive priority. See rule 116.3a. Turn-based actions also happen&#xA;          automatically when each step and phase ends; no player receives priority afterward. See rule&#xA;          703, “Turn-Based Actions.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2d State-based actions happen automatically when certain conditions are met. See rule 704.&#xA;          They’re dealt with before a player would receive priority. See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2e Resolving spells and abilities may instruct players to make choices or take actions, or may&#xA;          allow players to activate mana abilities. Even if a player is doing so, no player has priority while&#xA;          a spell or ability is resolving. See rule 608, “Resolving Spells and Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3a &lt;strong&gt;The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-&#xA;          based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with&#xA;          and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; No&#xA;          player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the&#xA;          cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b &lt;strong&gt;The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3c &lt;strong&gt;If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special&#xA;          action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3d &lt;strong&gt;If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes.&lt;/strong&gt; If any mana is&#xA;          in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. &lt;strong&gt;Then the next player in turn&#xA;          order receives priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.4. &lt;strong&gt;If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between    passing), the spell or&#xA;  ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the&#xA;  phase or step    ends.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.5. Each time a player would get priority, the game first performs all applicable state-based actions    as a single event (see rule 704,&#xA;  “State-Based Actions”), then repeats this process until no state-based&#xA;  actions are performed. Then triggered abilities are put on the stack&#xA;  (see rule 603, “Handling    Triggered Abilities”). These steps repeat&#xA;  in order until no further state-based actions are performed    and no&#xA;  abilities trigger. Then the player who would have received priority&#xA;  does so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.6. In a multiplayer game using the shared team turns option, teams rather than individual players    have priority. See rule 805, “Shared&#xA;  Team Turns Option.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.7. If a player with priority casts a spell or activates an activated ability while another spell or ability    is already on the&#xA;  stack, the new spell or ability has been cast or activated “in&#xA;  response to” the earlier    spell or ability. The new spell or ability&#xA;  will resolve first. See rule 608, “Resolving Spells and    Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about an example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice and Bob are playing. They're trying to brush up on technical play, so they're making sure to follow each little step in order to be ready for tournaments and judges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is Alice's main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the active player, &lt;strong&gt;Alice has priority&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice casts Fireball.&lt;/strong&gt; She moves the card from her hand to the stack for all players to see. She determines the parameters (the value of X, how many targets it will have). She pays all costs, in this case by tapping her mana. Now Fireball is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;, since she just put an effect on the stack. Pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Bob casts Snapcaster Mage.&lt;/strong&gt; Same thing: put the card on the table, choose any parameters (none while casting it: you target his ability after he comes into play), pay the costs. Now Snapcaster is on the stack, above Alice's Fireball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;, since he just put an effect on the stack. If Bob wanted to, he could play another (instant-speed) spell or ability at this time. He decides to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;, since she is the other player and Bob passed. Alice passes. (Note that Bob does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; get an opportunity to put anything new on the stack after Alice has passed, because he passed already as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, since both players passed, they resolve the topmost thing on the stack, which is Bob's Snapcaster. &lt;strong&gt;The Snapcaster Mage spell resolves&lt;/strong&gt;, becoming a Snapcaster Mage creature on the battlefield. His &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; trigger goes on the stack. Bob chooses a target for it: the Mana Leak in his graveyard. The stack looks like this: Snapcaster Mage trigger, Fireball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;, because a spell just resolved. If she had Surgical Extraction, she could put it on the stack on top of the Snapcaster's trigger to remove Mana Leak before it has a chance to resolve. Alas, no dice. So she'll pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;. Pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both players passed, they resolve the topmost thing on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Snapcaster Mage's ETB ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;. Bob's Mana Leak now has flashback 1U. The only thing on the stack is Fireball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;, because a triggered effect just resolved. Pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;. If he passes now, the Fireball will go off. Instead, of course, &lt;strong&gt;Bob casts Mana Leak&lt;/strong&gt; from his graveyard: Bob moves Mana Leak to the stack, targets Fireball, and pays its flashback cost by tapping mana. Now Mana Leak is on top of the stack, above Fireball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob receives priority&lt;/strong&gt; because he just played a spell. If he wanted to put another spell on the stack on top of Mana Leak, he could do so right now. Pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;. Pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players passed, so now &lt;strong&gt;Mana Leak resolves&lt;/strong&gt;. During resolution, Alice gets the choice to pay 3 mana to stop it. She declines to do so. (If multiple players had to make choices -- like, for example, if you resolve Smallpox, you would go in APNAP order, just like you do after an effect resolves.) Then, Mana Leak counters the Fireball. Fireball is removed from the stack (going to Alice's graveyard). Since Mana Leak was cast with flashback, Bob puts the card into the exile zone. Now the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice receives priority&lt;/strong&gt; because a spell just resolved. Since the stack is empty and it is her main phase, she can play any spell she wants, not just instants. Alice passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bob receives priority&lt;/strong&gt;. Pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players passed with an empty stack, so we go to the next step or phase (i.e. combat if this is Alice's first main phase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T17:03:36.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-01-05T17:24:05.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen games won with as few as two total tickets, even if they're small and not near each other. In those cases, the strategy generally was to make one long transcontinental route (often through Canada or along the Gulf Coast, picking up many 6-train connections) that covers both tickets, getting many points from the connections and the longest continuous route bonus. This hinges on being able to do this quickly and somewhat clandestinely, but if you're able to visualize the ideal place for each of your trains at the beginning (with a contingency plan or two in case you get blocked) and draw your cards for the long term (i.e., taking colors you don't need right away if you'll need them for one of the routes you want later), this can be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you and the people you're playing with don't object to blocking for the sake of blocking, some tactical play when you're low on trains can also go a long way to helping you by hurting your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T17:24:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-05T18:48:17.220" Score="5" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules for the European game, the last sentence under &quot;Building a Train Station&quot; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player is never required to build any Stations. For each Station a&#xA;  player has not used, four points are added to his score at the end of&#xA;  the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;four points are added if he does &lt;em&gt;not build&lt;/em&gt; a train station, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the points are added only if he builds the station but does &lt;em&gt;not use&lt;/em&gt; it for one of his routes, i.e. he may put a station in but then not use a route which the station opens up?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2202" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T19:45:49.633" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:45:49.633" Title="What is the definition of an unused Station?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2012-01-05T18:56:37.320" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play the same person more than once, the most important setup strategy is to &lt;strong&gt;avoid being predictable&lt;/strong&gt;. If I play someone who always surrounds their flags with bombs, I'll beat them almost every time because discovering the location of a bomb (or better yet several bombs) means there's a good chance the flag is nearby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to avoid being predicable, I tend to rotate between the following types of setups:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-3 bomb clusters located far from each other (flag behind only 1 of&#xA;them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2-3 bomb clusters located far from each other but flag NOT behind&#xA;them, so opponent wastes a lot of time and effort cleaning up bombs&#xA;that protect 7s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;semi-random bomb placement where no 2 bombs are placed adjacent or&#xA;diagonally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a single bomb cluster protecting the flag with the rest placed&#xA;semi-randomly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One bomb protected side of the board that has lots of poor ranking&#xA;pieces, leaving me free to concentrate my attack on the other side of&#xA;the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also occasionally do something truly wacky like place the flag in&#xA;the front row NOT behind a lake. I've won most times I've done this&#xA;because it is unexpected and is assumed to be a bomb, which is then&#xA;usually ignored/avoided, though I'm usually also protecting it with a&#xA;strong piece or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that more important than flags/bombs is the placement of your best pieces (1, 2, 3, 3, and Spy in the old, original version). If your best pieces are too far back and separate from each other, you'll be at a big disadvantage to the player who comes barreling through your front ranks with a concentration of good pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing someone for the first time, it's important to get a sense of how much they've played and what bomb strategies they employ, if they're willing to tell you. For example, if you're able to determine they've never used or played against the semi-random bomb setup, you're very likely to win if you use that set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T17:46:04.370" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T17:46:04.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-01-05T18:58:17.170" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for a strategy to overcome this, it seems like that you're using only one strategy which is based on completing a long route, with overlapping tickets, as the main method to gain points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something you may be missing is that if your tickets are only short routes, you can finish them easily and them spend the rest of the time doing two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claiming 6 train routes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preventing your opponents from completing tickets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something to try next time might be then to start on your hardest route, but watch for a clear destination from an opponent.  Then spend some time blocking him.  There are a few key routes that are not only worth points, but also are hard to go around.  You will need to pay attention to which colors your opponents are collection as well as where they're building their trains, so it is a more difficult strategy to pull-off, but it can work well.  I've seen several games where the only people to complete routes were people with small ones, and therefore the small routes tickets won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you also asked for an alternate house-rule, one that adds fun is to draft the starting cards.  Everyone draws three, picks one, passes the rest left, then people pick one of the remaining two and discards (face-down) the last one.   You get to select from more cards (2 of 5) but you also get an inkling of what your opponent(s) may have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T18:58:17.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6028" CreationDate="2012-01-05T20:44:40.810" Score="9" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;You build the board with tiles that are 3 hexes joined together, each has a volcano on it. You  stack them, and build stuff on them. Temples on tiles that are 4 high, villages need to have a certain size and there's a third building I can't remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-06T07:29:27.013" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T20:49:32.487" Title="What is the name of this game with temples, volcanos and stacking tiles?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2012-01-05T20:53:17.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means for each Station that you don't play, you get four points at the end of the game. The idea is to force you to weigh up the cost (cards, loss of bonus points) against the benefits (completing your route).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a pretty weird rule if it rewarded you for placing Stations, but making sure you don't use them on any route...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T20:53:17.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6025" CreationDate="2012-01-05T21:07:17.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54/tikal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tikal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/855/java&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Java&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are both part of the Mask Trilogy of games created by Wolfgang Kramer and Michael Kiesling.  Mexica is the third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T21:07:17.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6025" CreationDate="2012-01-05T21:51:02.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like you might be talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24508/taluva&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Taluva&quot;&gt;Taluva&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2012-06-21T20:49:32.487" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T20:49:32.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5930" CreationDate="2012-01-05T22:59:16.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DISADVANTAGE is that your pawn is on e5, without the support of one on either d4 or f4, meaning that the pawn has to be protected by pieces, one of which happens to be your queen. If you are not careful, your queen could be &quot;developed&quot; prematurely. And it does block your light squared bishop for the time being.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there are some potential advantages as well: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) It prevents a Black knight from moving directly to f6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It indirectly discourages Black from moving a pawn to d6 or f6, because if you capture, he can't recapture with the e pawn, which would be pinned by your queen. Also, if he moves one of those pawns, you could get into a gambit by playing the pawn to e6, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A likely scenario is that Black plays e6, then moves his knight to e7 (instead of f6), meaning that you've cramped his game in a major way. Black might move his knight further from e7 to g6 and eventually capture the pawn. But he's disrupted his pieces in a major way and lost time, which you might then be able to use finish your development ahead of him and start an attack, perhaps against his king. Under some lines, the early move by the queen turns out to be an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something of a gambit in the Sicilian. All in all, it's a complicated, tricky opening move. But it may be a good one to use for a surprise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another gambit that you might use in the Sicilian is the wing gambit, 3. b4, favored a century ago by the American master Frank Marshall. If Black captures with either the pawn or the knight, he's lost time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-05T22:59:16.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5930" CreationDate="2012-01-06T00:31:40.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On e4 the White pawn is strong, controlling the important central square d5 (which Black has given up some control over by playing c5). You might think that it is just as good to control d6, but d6 is less central.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loss of time is also significant. You spend a move to put the pawn on e5, and then another move to defend it with the queen. You will have to move the queen again, or your g-pawn, to develop your king's bishop. That makes three moves you could have been spending developing minor pieces or central pawns or castling! Half a pawn seems a fair evaluation of that loss of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the pawn may be vulnerable on e5. Black has a pleasant choice whether to play g6 and Bg7, or e6, Ne7 and g6, or f6 exchanging the pawn but getting fast development. White will have trouble bringing more pieces to the defence of e5: in particular it won't be easy to support it with a pawn as Black controls d4 and White's knight blocks the f-pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1672" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T00:31:40.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5930" CreationDate="2012-01-06T03:29:29.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is a pretty suspect line for White.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this advice from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lud%C4%9Bk_Pachman&quot;&gt;Ludec Pachman&lt;/a&gt;, in his book &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0486202909&quot;&gt;Modern&#xA;Chess Strategy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. He gives four general principles to&#xA;guide beginners in the opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the pieces without loss of time where they can develop their&#xA;greatest power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not move a piece that is already developed unless there is a&#xA;strong reason for doing so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid putting pieces on squares where they can be driven off by&#xA;moves contributing to the development of enemy pieces and pawns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pawn moves in the opening are only an aid to development and a&#xA;means of fighting for the centre: they should therefore be kept to a&#xA;minimum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening sequence you suggest conflicts with these principles in several ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loss of time.&lt;/strong&gt; The Q on &lt;code&gt;e2&lt;/code&gt; prevents quick development of the &lt;code&gt;f1&lt;/code&gt; bishop. White can continue with &lt;code&gt;g3&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Bg2&lt;/code&gt; but this is a slower development than &lt;code&gt;Bc4&lt;/code&gt;,&#xA;&lt;code&gt;Bb5&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Be2&lt;/code&gt;, which are all seen in in mainline variations of the&#xA;Sicilian. So, violates the first of Pachman's guidelines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unhelpful pawn move.&lt;/strong&gt; Moving the pawn to &lt;code&gt;e5&lt;/code&gt; violates Pachman's fourth guideline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easy target.&lt;/strong&gt; Putting the pawn on &lt;code&gt;e5&lt;/code&gt; makes it a target for Black to attack as he&#xA;develops his pieces. White will need to waste more time defending it. Obvious ideas for Black are &lt;code&gt;... g6&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;... Bg7&lt;/code&gt; and/or &lt;code&gt;... Nh6&lt;/code&gt; with threats of &lt;code&gt;Ng4&lt;/code&gt;. If White then plays &lt;code&gt;h3&lt;/code&gt; to stop &lt;code&gt;Ng4&lt;/code&gt;, the Black knight can go to &lt;code&gt;f5&lt;/code&gt; with the threat of exchanging knights on &lt;code&gt;d4&lt;/code&gt;. So White has also violated Pachman's third piece of advice!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some strategic considerations/weaknesses in White's sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loss of d4.&lt;/strong&gt; One of Black's strategic ideas in the Sicilian is to fight for&#xA;control of &lt;code&gt;d4&lt;/code&gt;. White has handed this control over by &lt;code&gt;Qe2&lt;/code&gt; and can no&#xA;longer play &lt;code&gt;d4&lt;/code&gt; unless he spends yet more pawn moves like &lt;code&gt;c3&lt;/code&gt;, or &lt;code&gt;b3&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;followed by &lt;code&gt;Bb2&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inferior Taimanov for White.&lt;/strong&gt; An alternative Black development plan is &lt;code&gt;4. ... e6&lt;/code&gt; followed by &lt;code&gt;Ne7&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Ng6&lt;/code&gt;. This is a typical &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sicilian_Defence#Taimanov_Variation%3a_4...Nc6&quot;&gt;Taimanov Sicilian&lt;/a&gt; idea with the added bonus of a weak pawn on &lt;code&gt;e5&lt;/code&gt; for Black to attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T03:29:29.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6022" CreationDate="2012-01-06T06:19:39.527" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An unused station is one you have not put on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each station still in your supplies at end of game, you get those 4 points. If you've put it on the board, it's been used, even if you don't need it there to complete your tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I base this upon extensive play of TTR:E on daysofwonder.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T06:19:39.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5940" CreationDate="2012-01-06T07:21:16.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty sure there are no official rules, but a couple of people have had a go at putting together &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91372&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an unofficial codex&lt;/a&gt; which looks interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of intriguing modeling ideas, including conversions, for the Interex in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=233362&amp;amp;page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T07:21:16.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6039" CreationDate="2012-01-06T14:13:37.940" Score="16" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has in the first 15 (mostly 2-3 player) games I've played so far but I'm wondering if this is true in general. Are we missing strategies? Is this less true in 4-5 player games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of asking the question is whether certain game winning ways (which are perhaps the majority of game winning strategies/tactics) tend to produce longest continuous path (and using up all of your cars) as a by-product. These ways include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;having many 4-6 car routes (requires fewer turns to deploy cars and earns more points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;achieving long path mid game (increases chance for new tickets to mostly overlap)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;avoiding a hub-and-spoke network (which traverses less territory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T03:41:01.883" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:41:01.883" Title="In Ticket to Ride USA, does obtaining longest continuous path of routes highly correlate with winning?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1986" CreationDate="2012-01-06T16:25:25.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been more than a year since I've asked this question. So, here are the rule modifications that I've play-tested. It seems to balance well, though I would like the game to go a little longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Objective&lt;/strong&gt;: Get 12 victory points before 3 years are up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the following cards from play: &quot;Conflict&quot; event, Merchant, Herb Woman, and all Attack cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle Event cards without the &quot;Year End&quot; card. Pick 4 random cards from the shuffled event card deck and shuffle those 4 cards with the &quot;Year End&quot; card. Put this (5 card) stack on the bottom of the event card deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 commerce points earns you the windmill token.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 strength points earns you the knight token.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a tournament is rolled on the event die, if your number of tournament points is greater than or equal to the number rolled on the resource die, you get one extra resource of your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to critique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="604" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T16:25:25.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-06T16:27:53.033" Score="5" ViewCount="1425" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question pertains to a situation that happened last night when my friends and I were playing Magic: the Gathering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a game of Two-Headed Giant going on and I had Werewolves on the battlefield with Trample. My partner had previously enchanted an opposing team member with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226889&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of Stalked Prey&lt;/a&gt;. I had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reckless Waif&lt;/a&gt; with a 3/2 power and toughness (via &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222189&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mayor of Avabruck&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Full Moon's Rise&lt;/a&gt;) attacking said opponent. Their only blocker was a 2/2, so they blocked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226889&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of Stalked Prey&lt;/a&gt; reads &quot;Whenever an opponent is deal combat damage...&quot; and goes on to say the creature that dealt damage gets a +1/+1 counter. Is the counter immediately added, thus saving it from the 2/2 blocker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2278" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:39:55.627" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:39:55.627" Title="Would the +1/+1 counter from Curse of Stalked Prey save my creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6036" CreationDate="2012-01-06T16:36:10.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the blocker would be destroyed.  From the comprehensive rules dealing with the Combat Damage Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The state based action that destroys is 704.5g.  So although the ability triggers it is placed on the stack.  State based actions are dealt with before the stack is, and thus, the blocker dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T16:54:33.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6036" CreationDate="2012-01-06T16:40:42.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Curse of Stalked Prey will not save your Reckless Waif.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the evaluation of what zone a creature belongs in (has it been dealt lethal damage, does it have zero toughness, etc.) is a state-based action, it occurs before a player would next receive priority.  A player would next receive priority at the end of the combat damage step, which is when the triggered ability of Curse of the Stalked Prey goes on the stack.  See the following from the comp. rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority&amp;quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; otherwise all triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on the stack, then the check is repeated. Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority. This process also occurs during the cleanup step (see rule 514), except that if no state-based actions are performed as the result of the step's first check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, then no player gets priority and the step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5g&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, your creature will go to the graveyard, then the triggered ability that's on the stack will fizzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:04:44.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6034" CreationDate="2012-01-06T17:03:41.307" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, obtaining longest continuous path of routes &lt;strong&gt;certainly does&lt;/strong&gt; highly correlate with winning.  It's pretty simple to see why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple routes that &quot;cooperate&quot; by overlapping are obviously more efficient than short routes in different parts of the board that have nothing to do with each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Longer routes are vastly more cost-effective than short routes. A 6-length route takes you one turn to put down and earns 15 points. 6 1-length routes would take you 6 turns to put down and earn a measly 6 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As if the inherent advantage of playing long, complementary routes wasn't obvious enough, you even get an additional endgame bonus for having the longest continuous path!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I suggested in my comment though, you don't have to roll over and let other players build long, efficient routes at their leisure. In my group, sabotage tactics are very common, and if someone  obviously has designs on a long, efficient chain of routes, then building obstructively, or just picking up the colours they have telegraphed they will be needing to collect, can really ruin their day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also mentioned what is possibly the strongest deterrent to building long, leisurely routes: the capacity for a player to speed up the end of the game by going out quickly.  The lucrative Los-Angeles-to-New-York mega-route in your hand becomes a huge liability if your opponents block a few key connections in the midwest and then play to run themselves out of trains as quickly as possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, it's not &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; good to have a hand of long, valuable, complementary routes at the start of the game: a couple of seemingly unambitious short routes may be enough to win the game, if you play to go out as fast as possible and are the only one to have completed all the routes in your hand.  Lumbering your opponents with big negative points can be just as good as working hard to score those points yourself: all's fair in love and trains...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-06T17:03:41.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6043" CreationDate="2012-01-06T17:27:52.150" Score="6" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game my opponent deviated from the joseki line I was familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Actual game&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.94........&#xA;$$ -.5128O.....&#xA;$$ -..X36...0,.&#xA;$$ -...7.......&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of B10, I expected this exchange first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Expected&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -.OOXXO.....&#xA;$$ -..XOX1..3,.&#xA;$$ -...O.......&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -...2.......&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result here appears to be even to me, white is a little better locally but she played first so it is to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since black omitted the 1-2 exchange and played 3 directly, he seems to plan on letting the sole white stone die on a larger scale. Consequently it appears natural to use this stone to punish black's deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've got three basic ideas how to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tenuki and leave the bad aji. Omitting W2 as a securing move should be fine since black can't fight properly without swallowing the sole white stone first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play W2 regardless. Then black has 2 options: play B1 so it reverts to the known pattern, or tenuki - in that case white can move her stone out easily and fight, so black probably won't do that. However, since B3 is not joseki as far as I know, this would be too easy on black.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move W2 out, splitting black's stones.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of either this attachment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Attachment and keima&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -.OOXXO.....&#xA;$$ -..XOX..1X,.&#xA;$$ -...O....2..&#xA;$$ -.....3.....&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or this shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Attachment and sake bottle shape&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -.OOXXO.12..&#xA;$$ -..XOX...X,.&#xA;$$ -...O..3....&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 3 seems to induce black to make white's left side group stronger, but at the same time, black's top stone gets stronger as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is any of my ideas here reasonable? Or is black's &quot;deviation&quot; in fact a joseki, too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T21:35:21.087" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T21:35:21.087" Title="Komoku-Oogeima joseki order variation" Tags="|go|joseki|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2410" CreationDate="2012-01-06T19:52:18.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15/cosmic-encounter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cosmic Encounter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, 1977 version (Eon games). This may have been the game that launched the expansion set trend, so worth describing for the historical value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original:&lt;/strong&gt; Nice idea but not enough variation in Alien powers or edicts to make it interesting for more than a few games and limited to 4 players max.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansions 1-3:&lt;/strong&gt; Worth buying for adding players 5 and 6 and a little more variation thanks to more powers and edicts, but the game still did not have strong replayability power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 4:&lt;/strong&gt; Flare cards added, which tremendously added to the variability of initial conditions and outcomes. Getting the basic set and expansions 1-4 is enough to get hundreds of games of enjoyment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 5:&lt;/strong&gt; Added moons. Most people I know hated moons and never used them. Was not a necessary building block for future expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 6:&lt;/strong&gt; Added lucre (a money system) and powers. It did add variation but some people liked it, some didn't. Best bought in conjunction with Expansion 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 7:&lt;/strong&gt; Added powers. Best bought in conjunction with Expansion 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 8:&lt;/strong&gt; Added the flare cards for the powers added in Expansions 6, 7, and 9. Therefore  a required purchase for those who bought any expansions above #5. Also added kicker cards, a welcome addition among those I gamed with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 9:&lt;/strong&gt; Added a single power (the Aristocrat) and rules/stickers needed for inverse play. The inverse rules were not liked by those I played with so this expansion could have been skipped (though Aristocrat was well loved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comments:&lt;/strong&gt; This is the only game system I've used where the basic set is so boring that it's essentially a requirement to buy expansion sets (1-4 at a minimum). However, the expansion sets were sold in thin plastic bags at a low cost ($5-$6 for each expansion kit). So buying the basic set plus expansions 1-4 was the equivalent of paying for 2 games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T16:17:33.723" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:17:33.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6040" CreationDate="2012-01-06T20:17:26.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The attachment is fine but B will resist in a different way, I guess (maybe pushing?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Attachment, black resists&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -.OOXXO.....&#xA;$$ -..XOX..1X,.&#xA;$$ -...O2......&#xA;$$ -...34......&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the (expected) variation move 2 shouldn't be a jump, rather a nobi (extension) to get a more solid shape, then I agree that W is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Expected, stronger shape&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -.OOXXO.....&#xA;$$ -..XOX1..3,.&#xA;$$ -...O.......&#xA;$$ -...2.......&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2280" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T18:13:28.847" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T18:13:28.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6040" CreationDate="2012-01-06T22:38:00.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;W1 seems like a good move to me. B can't get a rhythm to fight well even if he ignores it to make something happen. I may be wrong but B's deviation looks like a gross overplay to me. I can't see W playing a &quot;solid be get better result&quot; so starting a fight seems good for W.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other option I can think of, other than W1, is the 5th line shoulder hit which is worth thinking about. It's much harder to control and more easily ignored though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W 5th line shoulder hit&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;$$ -.OX........&#xA;$$ -.OOXXO.....&#xA;$$ -..XOX...X,.&#xA;$$ -...O...1...&#xA;$$ -...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2283" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T18:05:06.257" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T18:05:06.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6045" CreationDate="2012-01-07T02:42:59.900" Score="12" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only a beginner at Go, but have been reading the questions in the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/go&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'go'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;go&lt;/a&gt; tag with interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this game seems to have rather more special terminology than most. What do &lt;code&gt;joseki&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;shimari&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;high-point&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;pincer&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;aji keshi&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;fuseki&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;komi&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;moyo&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;tsumego&lt;/code&gt; etc. mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone explain these terms, or is there a good glossary somewhere that I could consult to help me understand these conversations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T03:20:43.003" Title="Where can I learn the lingo of Go?" Tags="|go|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6044" CreationDate="2012-01-07T03:20:43.003" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the special terminology of Go is just Japanese Go terms adopted by English-speaking players.  Depending on who you're dealing with, you can be just as likely to see references to &lt;em&gt;&quot;shimari&quot;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&quot;fuseki&quot;&lt;/em&gt; as you are to see &quot;corner enclosures&quot; and &quot;the opening&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good beginner's resource for learning Go can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt;.  In particular, they have &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?CommonGoTerms&quot;&gt;a page dedicated to common Go terminology&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T03:20:43.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-07T04:32:03.887" Score="4" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some time I've been puzzling over just how optional routines work in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.engarde.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;En Garde!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not even sure I fully understand how the &lt;em&gt;Parry-Reposte&lt;/em&gt; routine works, let alone the &lt;em&gt;Optional Block&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Optional Parry&lt;/em&gt; routines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have the advantage, so start with a short sequence. I might write out the sequence &lt;em&gt;Parry(Repost), Parry(Repost), Lunge, Slash&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-P-(R)- -P-(R)- -X-L-X- -X-S-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent starts with a Furious Lunge, I believe our sequences would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-L-X-X-C-X-X-&#xA;-P-R-P-X-L-X-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would Parry the initial Lunge, which triggers the Reposte, my second Parry would have nothing to protect against, so I would go on to my Slash, meanwhile my opponents Cut would strike me before my Lunge connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent starts with a Furious Slash, I believe our sequences would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-X-S-X-C-X-X-&#xA;-P-P-X-L-X-X-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My parries would not be effective, so I wouldn't get a Reposte, and my Lunge and my opponents Cut would strike at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if my opponent started with a Lunge/Slash combo, I believe our sequences would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-X-L-X-X-S-P-(R)-&#xA;-P-P-R-X-L-X&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my first parry would be ineffective, the second would trigger a repose and our Slashes and Lunges would both hit at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, are my sequences correct and beyond this, how do I use the &lt;code&gt;-OB1-OB2-&lt;/code&gt; and  &lt;code&gt;-OP1-OP2-&lt;/code&gt; routines? These I just can't even start to understand how they might be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can provide some example sequences of how these might be used, I would really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1190" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T19:55:19.523" Title="In the game &quot;En Garde!&quot; - How do optional routines work?" Tags="|en-garde-1975|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6049" CreationDate="2012-01-07T06:49:19.820" Score="8" ViewCount="3819" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=false&amp;amp;multiverseid=243440&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harm's Way&lt;/a&gt; or similar. The Oracle text states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next 2 damage that a source of your choice would deal to you and/or permanents you control this turn is dealt to target creature or player instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does this instant need to be cast to prevent a creature from dying? I guess the latest point by which it needs to be cast when blockers are assigned, if it were assigned later then it seems it would not longer be of any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.2&lt;/strong&gt;. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.3&lt;/strong&gt;. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:50:24.330" Title="When must an Instant be played that prevents damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6052" CreationDate="2012-01-07T07:54:42.177" Score="6" ViewCount="2962" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just played our first game of Small World: Underground, and we're not sure if we played the Iron Dwarves right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Iron Dwarves can get Silver Hammer tokens for occupying Mine regions, and it sounds like those hammer tokens are permanently gained, not used up when the dwarves use them for conquest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/su_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take your Silver&#xA;  Hammers back in hand and place them off the&#xA;  board, in front of you, where they will wait until&#xA;  the start of your next Conquest phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sure sounds like they earn the 7 Hammers and then have 7 to use every turn as long as they feel like staying active.  We played it this way, but the Iron Dwarves dominated heavily because they were also Immortal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we played it correctly, my next question for BGSE is going to be: &quot;How do you counter Immortal Iron Dwarves?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T17:01:30.143" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T14:14:12.633" Title="In Small World: Underground, do the Iron Dwarves keep their hammers from turn to turn?" Tags="|small-world|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6047" CreationDate="2012-01-07T07:59:49.710" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, in order to prevent a creature from dying in combat, the spell needs to be cast before combat damage is dealt. And the last opportunity to cast spells before combat damage is dealt is during the declare blockers step, just after blockers are actually declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one exception: if any creatures with first strike or double strike are involved in combat, there will be a combat damage step to handle their damage, prior to the time when other non-first strike combat damage is dealt. As part of that combat damage step, you get a chance to play spells and abilities, which could include the Harm's Way. So you could get away with playing it later than the declare blockers step if there is a first striking or double striking creature in combat, as long as it's not the one you want to prevent the damage from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make everything explicit, here's an outline of the combat phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of combat step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actually declare which creatures are attacking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blockers step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actually declare which creatures are blocking and how&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First strike combat damage step, &lt;em&gt;only if&lt;/em&gt; creatures with first (or double) strike are involved in combat&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First strike combat damage is assigned and dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-first strike combat damage is assigned and deal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T08:04:51.667" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T08:04:51.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6046" CreationDate="2012-01-07T13:18:00.860" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If my opponent starts with a Furious Lunge, I believe our sequences would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-L-X-X-C-X-X-&#xA;  -P-R-P-X-L-X-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No: your written sequence would be P-P-X-L-X-X-S... (to 12 actions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The optional routines kick in when the duel is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you see that your opponent's first action is a lunge, which is stopped by your Parry, you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; replace your next routine with a Riposte. If you do so, the sequence that is executed is P-R-X-L-X-X-S...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it replaces the next routine. If your opponent went X-L-X-X-S... to start with, your second Parry works and you may then Riposte. However the R replaces the X-L-X routine (padding with rests), so you end up executing P-P-R-X-X-X-S... As a Riposte does less damage than a Lunge, you might well prefer not to Riposte in these circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't think the other optional routines are particularly useful. There are some very specific circumstances where they can be used to avoid damage from an opponent's attack that you can see coming an action or two in advance, but this is often at the cost of sacrificing an attack of your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a postal/turn-based game like mine (www.pevans.co.uk/LPBS), the optional routines have to be used as conditional orders in a player's duelling orders: &quot;If the first parry succeeds, then riposte; if the second succeeds, do not Riposte&quot; for example. This can get very complicated...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The duelling rules work much better face-to-face - as originally intended - as there's the element of out-guessing your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2285" LastEditorUserId="2285" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T08:06:06.787" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T08:06:06.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="762" CreationDate="2012-01-07T15:11:28.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best collection of reviews I have seen are on a site called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pevans.co.uk/Reviews/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Games from Pevans&lt;/a&gt;. It contains a summary table plus a detailed review. It seems completely impartial and well written with lots of details and pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2286" LastEditorUserId="2286" LastEditDate="2012-01-07T15:21:14.673" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T15:21:14.673" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-01-07T15:11:28.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6048" CreationDate="2012-01-07T17:04:09.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are playing this correctly.  Perusing the rules and the BGG forums (where the designer posts occasionally) there isn't any doubt that the hammers accumulate to their maximum of 7 every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also noted that the races and particularly race/power combinations are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; meant to be balanced in Small World: Underground.  Players should be expected to have to overpay when powerful combos show up and to be teamed up on in 3+ player games when they do get the powerful combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-01-07T17:04:09.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6057" CreationDate="2012-01-08T10:02:57.080" Score="19" ViewCount="1857" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am particularly fond of going through my entire deck each turn. However while I like to do this, are there any actual rules for handling cases like &quot;You just played a smithy, but there are only two cards in your deck which aren't either in play or in your hand&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T15:21:18.060" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T02:17:55.527" Title="What happens when all your cards (the whole deck) are in play?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6056" CreationDate="2012-01-08T12:35:09.373" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule is always that you do as much as you can of the card, in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you play a Smithy, you would draw those two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A case that is more illustrative of how the process works is Lookout. Lookout reads: &quot;+1 Action, Look at the top 3 cards of your deck. Trash one of them. Discard one of them. Put the other one on top of your deck.&quot; If you only had two cards remaining in your deck, you would do as much of the card as you can, in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 Action; no problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at the top 3 cards of your deck. You only have two, so that's what you do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash one of them. You can do this, so you must trash one of those two cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard one of them. You can also do this, so you must do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the other one on top of your deck. You can't do this because there is no other one, since you only had two to start with. So, you skip this step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-08T15:23:53.437" LastActivityDate="2012-01-08T15:23:53.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6089" CreationDate="2012-01-08T16:48:41.670" Score="16" ViewCount="2209" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Small World: Underground, in our first game, one player managed to pick up the Immortal Iron Dwarves.  I understand that the race/power combinations are not supposed to be balanced, but even once the other 3 of us realized how awesome Immortal Iron Dwarves were, we just could not figure out a damn thing we could do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was able to spread out and leave only 1 token in every region, but our taking those regions didn't hurt him at all since he got the tokens back (Immortal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, with his hammers, he could take any region he wanted no matter what the defense.  He was able to just do whatever he wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We realized that Vampire could actually take tokens away from Immortal, but Vampire wasn't immediately available.  Is there anything we're missing about how to counter Immortal Iron Dwarves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T05:00:27.337" Title="What's a good counter for Immortal Iron Dwarves?" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6606" CreationDate="2012-01-09T04:49:57.917" Score="6" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dungeon Run, when another player is on your tile, you can assist them. If you do, you are allowed to rally which means to remove a single damage from your character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since any other player will eventually be an opponent, does it make any tactical or strategic sense to assist them if you don't get a benefit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-16T14:44:26.140" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T14:50:31.373" Title="In Dungeon Run, is there ever a reason to assist another player if you have full health?" Tags="|tactics|cooperation|dungeon-run|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6264" CreationDate="2012-01-09T07:15:46.883" Score="3" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;Circus Maximus is a chariot racing game in which players place their 3 chariots within the starting gate, and then take turns racing around the oval course to be the first to place all 3 chariots at the ending squares,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are only 15 starting locations, and each turn both players only have access to a move 1, 2, 3, 4, or 5 in a straight line cards (or pitch a card to change direction), but still must reserve a card for each chariot...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't this game be solvable at least as a 2-player game with minimal computing time?&#xA;By solvable, I mean that a brute force solution can be obtained with PC hardware available to that average person, and a sequence of moves exists that if followed results in a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/19658/rome_rules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:39:24.410" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T08:39:24.410" Title="Is Circus Maximus solvable?" Tags="|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6059" CreationDate="2012-01-09T08:46:42.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure.  There are several reasons you might want to do this.  Obviously if there's a monster that will threaten you, and you're worried about it, and your opponent can't kill him on his own, you may want to assist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a more strategic level, you may want to cooperate, especially if there are more than 2 players.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tit_for_tat&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tit_for_tat&lt;/a&gt; for a game theory perspective on building trust.  If you and another player are cooperating, you both get a benefit relative to the other players (as the next time he'll assist you, even if he doesn't have damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T08:46:42.000" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6086" CreationDate="2012-01-09T15:15:04.513" Score="17" ViewCount="7163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certain aspects of a game are protected by copyright, while others are not. You certainly cannot copy the particular expression of the rules, but the mechanics themselves aren't copyrightable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, why does the d20 &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=d20/oglfaq/20040123f&quot;&gt;Open Gaming License&lt;/a&gt; exist since Hasbro only releases game mechanics (at least usually) as open content, and this material is already not protectable by copyright law?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T21:25:02.910" Title="What aspects of a game are not protected under copyright?" Tags="|mechanics|copyright|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2012-01-09T15:43:16.957" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanics may not be protected by copyright but a process can be patented.   It is possible that at some point if the creators rights are not protected then the creator could lose protection.  The license helps to protect from that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition the license protects the invention from being claimed as a unique creation by someone else.  It limits (however broadly) the acceptable use of the product to those proscribed by the license.  And it allows content creators to leverage an accepted standard game mechanic with content they they create, own, and profit from with out surrendering any of the rights of the original copyright to the written description of the mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also just because something may be protected already under copyright, the license serves to enumerate, and reinforce those protections.  Basically that means to say that these are the things that we care about the most.  And it provides wording that is favorable to the creator that can be used in court should someone attempt to violate the license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastEditorUserId="1523" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T17:24:09.413" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T17:24:09.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5940" CreationDate="2012-01-09T16:17:02.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some people (online) that play with Imperial Guard models using the Tau rulebook as a stand-in for the Interex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T17:07:12.303" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T17:07:12.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-09T16:36:34.987" Score="7" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;In American Megafauna and its newer version Bios Megafauna, each of up to four players has up to four species in play.  Each species has several traits, and some traits can be multiplied (values up to 3).  I've found the visualization of this information, so that all players cna easily inspect all the species currently in play, to be deficient in both games and am looking for advice on approaches we might take, including developing new play aids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In American Megafauna each trait is represented by a little cardboard tent, and you put these tents on your playing mat (which sits in front of you).  If you have more levels of a trait you use extra tents.  This can sometimes be hard for even the player himself to see, let alone people sitting across the table; the tents are small (but if they were bigger they wouldn't fit on a reasonable table because they're numerous), and if you're viewing a tent closer to edge-on you can't read it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bios Megafauna acknowledges this problem and tries to fix it.  However, what it does is to split the information up: the central playing board has tracks for some of the traits (you place your species markers on the appropriate tracks), &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; some traits come from cards that you play on the table in front of you, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; if you've spun off a species from another one you might have chits on your mat indicating whcih traits were inherited.  Each individual piece of this -- track, card, chit -- is easier to see than the tents from American Megafauna, but now you have to look in three places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What playing aids would help us solve this problem?  I'm currently thinking in the direction of stackable, color-coded markers -- or it's possible that good old paper and pencil is the answer.  What have others tried for either of these games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T15:50:47.367" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T15:50:47.367" Title="In {American, Bios} Megafauna, how can we improve showing who has what traits?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|american-megafauna|bios-megafauna|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:12:36.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is meant as a response to Chad, but the comment field wouldn't hold it all:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Chad&#xA;I am not a lawyer, but I have done a bit of reading on copyright and this does not seem right to me.  It would be hard (not impossible) to patent a traditional board game, though some modern ones can involve some patented technology. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is strictly true that game mechanics (which are ideas) cannot be copyrighted, the term &quot;expression&quot; when dealing with copyrights is often interpreted quite broadly.  If you are just re-wording a core idea from another game, you are probably falling afoul of copyright law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally a license will not protect any invention, much less a game, from being claimed &quot;as a unique creation by someone else.&quot;  In patents, there is no &quot;independent inventor&quot; defense currently so as long as you were first, it doesn't matter if someone else also created it, and if they were first it doesn't matter if you developed it independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In copyright, the key dates to look at are when they were put in a fixed tangible medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you are not required to aggressively defend either copyright or patents for them to maintain their validity.  You are required to aggressively defende a trademark or the trademark will lose its validity, but that is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the release of some material under OGL was mostly a gift to the community, and if you must find a corprorate motive for it then think of &quot;goodwill&quot; or PR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I am not lawyer, if this is a question that you are going to make any decisions with real consequences on you may want to have an individual consultation with an actual lawyer (possibly one with experience in IP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastEditorUserId="2198" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T22:04:24.140" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T22:04:24.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6069" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:14:32.973" Score="18" ViewCount="131605" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to Monopoly I know there are ways the gameplay can be altered and I was wondering if this is one of them. Basically everytime I play I'm told you have to go around the board once before you can purchase properties but then I read somewhere else that you can purchase them immediately. Is this true or is this rule just made up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2296" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-09T20:50:54.590" LastActivityDate="2019-11-11T03:40:01.163" Title="Do you have to go around the board once to purchase properties?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:24:35.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't need to go around the board before you buy. This is a house rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:24:35.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2012-01-09T18:25:36.427" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a house rule to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm&quot;&gt;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm&lt;/a&gt; claims to be a copy of the rules from the official rulebook.  The section on Buying Property reads only:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you land on an unowned property you may buy that property&#xA;  from the Bank at its printed price. You receive the Title Deed card&#xA;  showing ownership. Place the title deed card face up in front of you.&#xA;  If you do not wish to buy the property, the Bank sells it at through&#xA;  an auction to the highest bidder. The high bidder pays the Bank the&#xA;  amount of the bid in cash and receives the Title Deed card for that&#xA;  property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing about having to go round once, and certainly I've never played a game of Monopoly in that way.  What would it even achieve, apart from slow what is already a potentially long-winded game down to an even more glacial pace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T18:25:36.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2012-01-09T22:14:35.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a house rule but it is certainly a widespread house rule. I've always played using the once around the board rule.  With all the various groups of people I've ever played with the issue never arose as to some other possibility. I didn't know it was optional. Is it possible that it was once a rule but is no longer?  Anyways, the point of going around once before allowing purchases is to help negate the advantage that going first provides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="917" LastActivityDate="2012-01-09T22:14:35.727" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6074" CreationDate="2012-01-10T04:30:17.857" Score="5" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several years ago I was taught a card game that was called &quot;Oh Sh*t.&quot; &#xA;Recently I looked it up online and found another card game with the same name, but completely different rules, so I'm hoping someone on BG.SE knows what the game I was taught should actually be called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overview&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards - 2 x Standard 52 card decks + Jokers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jokers and 2's are wild cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each round, players are dealt 11 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A full game consists of 8 rounds, with the ending condition for each round being the first person to play (lay down) all their cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play within each round is regulated based on a contract to which each player must conform, before they are able to play their hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 1 - 1 set of 3 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 2 - 2 sets of 3 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 3 - 1 set of 4 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 4 - 2 sets of 4 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 5 - 1 set of 5 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 6 - 2 sets of 5 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 7 - 1 set of 6 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round 8 - 2 sets of 6 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;set&quot; is a series of cards of the same rank, but runs of values are not permitted (eg, a set of 7, 8, 9 is not allowed) - wild cards (the jokers and 2's) can substitute for any card needed to complete the set, but there must never be more wild cards in the set than actual value cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players are also issued 10 buys/lives at the beginning of the game, with which they can purchase additional cards from the deck at the beginning of their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of each round, scores are tallied, and accumulated until all rounds are completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can shed some light on the real name for this game, it would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2292" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T22:28:13.700" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T22:28:13.700" Title="Identify card game similar to Kalookie" Tags="|identify-this-game|rummy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6072" CreationDate="2012-01-10T07:03:26.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a contract rummy game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/telefunken.html#farmers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Farmer's Rummy&lt;/a&gt; that sounds like what you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T07:03:26.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2012-01-10T14:42:00.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sort of.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A computer could brute force the optimal move each round based upon the decisions made by the opponent.  You could even construct a matrix(huge) of all possible moves for a game. But there is no single path of one players choices that would guarantee a win.  Your opponent can make choices that counter your choices effectively and give them the advantage and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are a limited enough set of rules that it would be possible to create a matrix of all winning solutions in a modern database and based off of that database quickly return the most effective strategy to counter your opponents most recent move.  That program would be non trivial to write but the rules are simple enough that it should not be unreasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1523" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T14:42:00.440" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6076" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-10T15:58:06.787" Score="4" ViewCount="1793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at picking up my first expansion for Dominion.  I play primarily with 2 players (total). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the expansions would play best with two players, and why? (For example, a card like Tournament gets worse with more players, while a card like Pirate Ship gets better with more players. Which expansion, if any, seems to work best with two players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2301" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T20:36:10.987" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T20:36:10.987" Title="Which Dominion expansion playes best with two players?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-prosperity|dominion-alchemy|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-01-10T21:09:43.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5930" CreationDate="2012-01-10T16:49:14.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://gameknot.com/chess-games-database.pl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gameknot.com/chess-games-database.pl&lt;/a&gt; there are 23 games with this opening, 39% white wins, 56% black, and 4% draws, but this is a pretty weak database so I wouldn't go on that too strongly. If someone has a chessbase account maybe they can get better stats. It seems like the best continuations for black are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 ...d6&lt;/strong&gt;  After this move the only real option seems to be &lt;strong&gt;5 exd6&lt;/strong&gt; and then after &lt;strong&gt;5 ..Qxd6 6 Nc3 Bf5 7 d3&lt;/strong&gt; the position looks fairly equal - both sides will need 4 moves to complete their development (including castling) although if white Fianchetto's the king-side bishop the white squares around the king look very weak, so possibly castling queen-side would be better here (black might be able to attack on the queen side in that case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 ...g6&lt;/strong&gt; After g6 black will look to try to win the pawn with &lt;strong&gt;5 ...Bg7&lt;/strong&gt;. White can counter with &lt;strong&gt;5 b3&lt;/strong&gt; and then &lt;strong&gt;6 Bb2&lt;/strong&gt;, after which it starts to look uncomfortable for black. The idea of &lt;strong&gt;6 ... Nh6&lt;/strong&gt; followed by &lt;strong&gt;7 ... Ng4&lt;/strong&gt; to further pressure the pawn is easily countered by &lt;strong&gt;6 h3&lt;/strong&gt; and I'm not sure the knight looks too happy on f5 either. &lt;strong&gt;5 ...e6&lt;/strong&gt; is another way to develop the hapless knight, but makes the dark squares look weak. &lt;strong&gt;5 ...d6&lt;/strong&gt; or even &lt;strong&gt;5 ...d5&lt;/strong&gt; opening the centre look like better options for black from here, and both look like they are roughly equal to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 ...e6&lt;/strong&gt; with the idea of getting the other knight to g6 at some point. I don't think this is that good for black - it really weakens the dark squares and helps white out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 ...d5&lt;/strong&gt; After &lt;strong&gt;5 exd6 e.p. Qxd6&lt;/strong&gt; we reach the first position. White could try &lt;strong&gt;5 c3&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;6 d4&lt;/strong&gt; to firm up the centre, and this starts to look like a position you might expect in the French, with the exception that black's white bishop will be free to develop and annoy white here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting to supplement this with engine analysis but I don't really have the time! It looks to me that with careful play, it should lead to equality for most of black's continuations. Perhaps engine analysis would provide some more insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2149" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T16:49:14.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2012-01-10T16:51:01.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Sacrifice Ratchet Bomb: Destroy each nonland permanent with converted mana cost equal to the number of charge counters on Ratchet Bomb.&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt; set at 2 can wipe their two drop creatures and Honor the Pure (2 CMC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen decks running 2-4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233242&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gavony&lt;/a&gt;'s so some number of land destruction isn't a bad idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also someone brought up, on Mid Mo Magic, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leyline of Singularity&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=89005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hunted Horror&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For modern I think that very same Leyline is a hose against their token strategy. Every spell that they use develops their board by two or more creatures per spell (talk about card advantage). However Leyline of Singularity just owns that strategy. I know I have moved from the question of dealing with a White Weenie plan of attack to a Token/Pump but it is the latter I am more concerned with in Modern. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all it has had a strong showing on MODO and Magic-League. For more on the Modern aggro stop, regardless of color, I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=48326&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chalice of the Void&lt;/a&gt;. Vs Affinity (assuming you are on the play) drop for zero. Against Boros, RDW, ElfBall, and a few others it is just devastating while set at one. I've ran Chalice to some success and it has a permanent place in my Modern sideboard. I lack two copies of the Leyline but I am on the hunt for that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2303" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T16:04:20.870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T16:04:20.870" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5923" CreationDate="2012-01-10T18:15:08.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a friend who has a similar game, but it's more like Sorry. It's got the whole home-made wood board and marbles and playing cards as components as well. Maybe that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="349" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T18:15:08.697" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1262" CreationDate="2012-01-10T19:04:31.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or are you better off waiting until it actually does happen before&#xA;  investing in this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you're not better off. If you're going to invest in Cities, waiting for a pile to empty first is too slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Timing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can load up on Cities and run two piles out, you'll dominate. I generally do go for cities. The most important rule for cities is: if you're not the only one buying cities, &lt;strong&gt;don't buy the last one&lt;/strong&gt;. In a 4-player game, I wouldn't buy either of the last two. Don't empty any piles unless you're confident of your lead and of ending the game soon. When a player empties the city pile, it greatly helps the &lt;strong&gt;next&lt;/strong&gt; player with cities, and you don't want to give anyone else head start. Conversely, if you can manage to &lt;em&gt;gain&lt;/em&gt; the last card in a pil on your turn which some actions left (perhaps with a Remodel-variant, though there are plenty of other options too), you get the head start if you can follow it up with a deck's worth of cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Whether or not to buy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they start as villages, Cities work really well with +cards. If there's no other good card draw, you can probably safely skip them. If there is good card draw, you definitely need to consider them. They'll be most valuable in a game where you think there will be a fair amount of time between a pile emptying and the end of the game, e.g. often when Platinum/Colony are in play. As others have pointed out, if there's another card in the set that's very popular in your play group, then you can expect it to sell out quickly, in which case Cities will activate quickly. An activated City is an excellent card for its cost, so you may want to largely ignore the other popular card and just focus on Cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Countermeasures&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the obvious curse/discard attacks to slow down a City strategy, use the piles. The City-player wants to kill 2 piles, and then have a few ridiculous turns before the game ends. A conter-city player wants to wear down piles evenly, so that as soon as one is killed, 2 others can be quickly killed depriving the City player of the chance to go off. This often isn't very hard. Pick a couple decent, non-terminal, cheap cards, which you should be able to buy more frequently than a City player can buy cities. Work in some points (a Duchy here and there goes a long way, or a Province if you get 8), so that when the game ends all of a sudden you're on top. Extra buy or gain cards help immensely with this (e.g. Ironworks, Bridge, Goons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T19:04:31.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2012-01-10T21:43:24.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;why does the d20 Open Gaming License exist since Hasbro only releases&#xA;  game mechanics (at least usually) as open content, and this material&#xA;  is already not protectable by copyright law?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historical reasons. TSR, the original owners of Dungeons and Dragons, had a bad run at the internet early on. Their interpretation of how the copyright on D&amp;amp;D was applied was ridiculous and draconian. (For example, they claimed ownership of you product if you used the term &quot;Hit Points,&quot; and had a single location from which D&amp;amp;D Materials could be distributed, including homebrewed rules -- you were expected to upload them to TSR for approval first.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Wizards of the Coast bought the remains of TSR, one of their desires was to get other people building supporting products for D&amp;amp;D, and talking about D&amp;amp;D on the internet. But with a bunch of restrictive rhetoric from TSR in the public mindscape, something had to be done to make it clear that this style of building-on was both acceptable and encouraged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Open Gaming License made it clear that building things &quot;on top of&quot; D&amp;amp;D was completely OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1831" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2012-01-11T03:28:19.883" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T03:28:19.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6082" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-10T22:27:27.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag refers to questions specifically about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playing_card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;playing cards&lt;/a&gt; themselves, covering topics such as shuffling, construction, lamination, deck sizes etc. It &lt;em&gt;is not&lt;/em&gt; a meta tag for adding to any card game question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T22:27:27.913" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T22:27:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6083" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-10T22:27:27.913" Score="0" Body="This tag refers to questions specifically about playing cards themselves, covering topics such as shuffling, construction, lamination, deck sizes etc. It *is not* a meta tag for adding to any card game question!" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-10T22:27:27.913" LastActivityDate="2012-01-10T22:27:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2012-01-10T23:20:39.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Kill off the opponent before they can develop their strategy&quot; is the standard gameplan of aggro decks. The question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5728/how-to-prevent-being-overrun-in-the-early-game&quot;&gt;&quot;How to prevent being overrun in the early game?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; addressed some general aspects of dealing with aggro decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to deal with aggro is to play like a control deck: force your opponent onto your timetable by dedicating your early plays to negating his, while the natural momentum of playing land every turn moves the game closer towards your big endgame strategy. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/chingsungchang-controlling-game-flow-understanding-time/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; explores this idea in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among creature-based aggro decks, the &quot;classic&quot; white weenie deck is notable for several qualities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor reach: What white distinctly lacks is the ability to get damage in despite a board stall. At best, you've got flyers, which still compare unfavorably to red's direct burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good creatures: White's low-curve creatures, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262861&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blade Splicer&lt;/a&gt;, tend to have excellent stats and combat-enhancing abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong answers: White has some of the easiest access to multifaceted removal, with cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107302&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;. In most formats, white also has at least some powerful hosers, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221898&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grand Abolisher&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209287&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leonin Arbiter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lack of reach means that creature damage is pretty much this deck's only way to win (whereas against red decks you also have to worry about cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shrine of Burning Rage&lt;/a&gt; even after you've set up adequate creature defense). Therefore, your main goal is to &lt;strong&gt;deny your opponent the ability to attack profitably&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The typical tools used by control to combat creature-based aggro are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sweepers&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSupreme%20Verdict%5d&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt; are one of your most effective tools. These are really strong because you can set back several turns of your opponent's development with one spell, but often you need support from other cards to avoid getting hammered long enough to use them. In the early game, 2-for-1 spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArc%20Trail%5d&quot;&gt;Arc Trail&lt;/a&gt; are like cheaper sweepers. Since this is traditionally creature aggro's biggest weakness, you can expect a well-built deck to have some way to reduce the impact &amp;mdash; for example, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoomed%20Traveler%5d&quot;&gt;Doomed Traveler&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBoros%20Charm%5d&quot;&gt;Boros Charm&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMoorland%20Haunt%5d&quot;&gt;Moorland Haunt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spot removal&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;counterspells&lt;/strong&gt; are the classic answers to individual threats. 1-for-1 removal isn't great against big gangs of cheap guys, but, in this case, its value generally increases with the number of anthem effects your opponent plays (since their decks are running fewer net creatures). One advantage of counterspells over removal is that you get to stop nasty ETB abilities (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blade Splicer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=198383&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stoneforge Mystic&lt;/a&gt;) and you can handle spells that create multiple creatures (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221214&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Midnight Haunting&lt;/a&gt;) more easily; generally players don't run a lot of counterspells against aggro decks because removal is more efficient and doesn't constraint your timing nearly as much, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blockers&lt;/strong&gt; are handy for reducing incoming damage. Ideally you'd like to be able to kill some of their creatures every time they attack, but sometimes just a few turns of chumping is sufficient (which is why &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220074&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timely Reinforcements&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141976&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kitchen Finks&lt;/a&gt; are great cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bounce&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;life gain&lt;/strong&gt; essentially force your opponent to spend a turn making the same attack or summoning the same creature he used last turn. These aren't as effective as straight-up destruction but are often available more cheaply or in colors your deck can more easily use. Life gain is best when it's attached to something else, so that you're not just giving your opponent a free turn to develop a superior board position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which you should play generally depends on your deck, since you'll want to pick cards that are useful to you in many different situations. Sweepers work best when they don't constantly destroy your own guys, for instance, while even aggro decks make use of some spot removal to clear the way for their attackers or pick off particularly nasty utility creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing against anthem effects like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233237&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Honor of the Pure&lt;/a&gt;, generally &lt;strong&gt;it's more useful to kill creatures than to remove the anthem&lt;/strong&gt;. The exception is when the pump-up is super-significant, either due to the size of the buff (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194391&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tempered Steel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=208262&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;True Conviction&lt;/a&gt;) or the volume of creatures receiving it (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243217&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intangible Virtue&lt;/a&gt; in a deck that's routinely creating 3-4 tokens a turn; ideally you want to shut down the token maker, though). If your opponent is running &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%20%5B%22Sword%20of%22%5D%20%5B%22and%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Swords&lt;/a&gt;, those are usually worth directly removing as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are times when this advice doesn't apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When your deck is faster than your opponent's&lt;/em&gt;. If that's the case, you can &quot;race&quot; instead of adopting a control posture. Do note that some white decks include several control-oriented cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220074&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timely Reinforcements&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt; in their sideboards, allowing them to play control against faster aggro opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When you opponent isn't actually trying to swarm you with creatures&lt;/em&gt;. With access to a &quot;deeper&quot; card pool, like Legacy and Modern, a critical volume of powerful utility creatures allows mono-white to run in a rather untraditional aggro-control kind of style normally more common in blue decks (U/W, Bant, RUG). I'm assuming that's out of scope for this question, though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T18:16:26.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6062" CreationDate="2012-01-11T01:53:30.360" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, the OGL exists to &lt;br&gt;(1) allow D&amp;amp;D 3.0 supplements to be made by 3rd parties and &lt;br&gt;(2) to ensure the 3.0 Dev Team could take their mechanics with them if they got fired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) can be seen in the explosion of material in 2000-2002.&lt;br&gt;(2) can be seen clearly in Pathfinder and Arcana Unearthed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While mechanics can't be copyrighted, and the US Patent Office &lt;em&gt;almost never&lt;/em&gt;¹ grants patents on game mechanics, the Open Gaming License provides a means of reusing the literal text, and is a two-way license. Any mechanics you don't declare as product identity are likewise open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sharing could have been bidirectional with Wizards, but they appear to have decided not to go that route in the 3.x era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to use the literal text, combined with the lack of a formal OGL mark², only the D20 STL one, at the time of inception, allowed D&amp;amp;D-compatible d20 System games to flourish; they all &quot;required&quot; the D&amp;amp;D core rules³, and thus helped drive sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, it made D&amp;amp;D 3E one of the most used game systems in print... at least until Wizards moved on to 4E. And the D20 SRD is still one of the most used reference documents in the open gaming movement; D&amp;amp;D 4E no longer is part of that. (It will be interesting to see how 5E fares, and if it uses the OGL or not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sidebar: Fonts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copyright.gov/history/mls/ML-111.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ML-111&lt;/a&gt; specifies that typefaces are not copyrightable in the US unless individual characters constitute recognizable works of art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copyright.gov/history/mls/ML-443.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ML-443&lt;/a&gt; reads, in part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pursuant to Congress's judgement in the 1976 act and case law, the Copyright Office does not regiser claims to copyright in typeface designs as such, whether generated by a computer program, or represented in drawings, hard metal type, or any other form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does note that the program to generate a picture might be copyrighted, but the font itself can't be even if the font-as-program is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earlier  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copyright.gov/history/mls/ML-393.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ML-393&lt;/a&gt; notes that font-as-program is unregisterable as the font itself is in fact not copyrightable, with the exception of fonts that are comprised of recognizable artwork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that the particular &quot;look and feel&quot; is a viable and defensible trademark, and for games, Fonts are &lt;em&gt;part&lt;/em&gt; of that look and feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This isn't legal advice; for legal advice, contact an attorney at law licensed for your jurisdiction.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹: The exceptions are few and thus highly notable. Wizards' patent on &quot;Tapping&quot; in card games being the most notable of the lot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;²: The OGL mark is a later add-on; Wizards only released the d20 system logo and a license for it requiring one to not include certain mechanics...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;³: not that most of them can't be played without them. The missing content issue was solved in several d20 games by simply publishing an OGL-only web-enhancement with the missing rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T01:23:32.773" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T01:23:32.773" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6091" CreationDate="2012-01-11T06:28:24.077" Score="9" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up a copy of the &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/93465/arkham-horror-miskatonic-horror-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; expansion. In the rules, it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/em&gt; is designed to be used with the revised edition of &lt;em&gt;The Curse of the Dark Pharaoh&lt;/em&gt;. If using the original edition ... (that is, if the expansion does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; say &quot;Revised Edition&quot; on the lid of the box), use only the new Exhibit Item cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first I've heard of a &quot;Revised Edition&quot;, and I'm a little annoyed that my version of the expansion (which I got quite recently) isn't fully compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between the original and revised versions of &lt;em&gt;The Curse of the Dark Pharaoh&lt;/em&gt;? Was the original substantially broken in some way(s)? Is it really worth buying a second time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:54:59.770" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:54:59.770" Title="What are the changes in the Revised Edition of Curse of the Dark Pharaoh?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5923" CreationDate="2012-01-11T10:44:16.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of the game is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2633/dog&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Brändi Dog&lt;/strong&gt;. It's a little bit like Parchesi, except you use cards and not dice to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play it on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brettspielwelt.de/Spiele/Dog/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BrettSpielWelt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for free, if you want to confirm it's the good game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T10:44:16.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2012-01-11T11:05:11.157" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's important to realise that it's not just your group: a lot of people have been grumbling about the Immortal Iron Dwarves combination.  I've seen plenty of suggestions that it should just straight up be banned.  You're not &quot;missing something&quot; about how to deal with it - it's just very, very good, definitely to the point of being too good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if like me you prefer to play games as printed, even if that means occasional sessions where the odds are seriously unbalanced... presumably a player will have to pay top dollar to grab the combo if it turns up, since everyone knows how good it is.  All the other players will (or should) team up to impede the Immortal Iron Dwarves' progress.  Keeping them out of Mines so that the Silver Hammers don't rapidly accumulate seems like a top priority, and I think &quot;he could take any region he wanted no matter what the defence&quot; is a little bit of exaggeration: stacking piles of defenders up on the Dwarves' borders &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; going to slow them down, at least before they've been able to secure their full complement of Silver Hammers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's tough when a player has a combo that's just streets ahead of everybody else's, and  what should have been a fun, balanced 4-player game turns into a three-against-one.  But this is a known hazard of playing Small World, and the options are really limited to either banning known broken combos as a house rule; or accepting that every so often an annoyingly unbalanced game scenario will arise.  But even so, think of the glory if the other three of you manage to destroy the Iron Dwarf tyrant against overwhelming odds!  It'll be the best story since some puny hobbits managed to make it to Mount Doom and take down Sauron!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T16:55:44.513" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T16:55:44.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6093" CreationDate="2012-01-11T11:08:45.097" Score="8" ViewCount="3853" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing &lt;strong&gt;Last Night on Earth&lt;/strong&gt; with my family after my daughter got it for Christmas.  So far we have played five games and the zombies have won each time.  We played &quot;Die Zombies Die&quot; and most recently &quot;Defend the Manor&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have switched around who played who.  Either things are out of balance or we are playing the heroes badly (or perhaps we misunderstand the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some basic tactics that the heros should apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally our attempts so far have been along these lines:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run away from zombies and attempt to get some breathing space to search in a building,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get a gun, stand within range and pick-off the zombies,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you get a hand weapon or other special bonus, perhaps try and fight a zombie or two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also been a bit of trying to heal each other, and luring of zombies away from the Manor House.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The zombies seem to be getting a lot more cards to play while the heroes lack useful items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2306" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:07:55.790" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:07:55.790" Title="What are the basic tactics for the heros in Last Night on Earth? (Zombies dominating)" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6087" CreationDate="2012-01-11T13:32:58.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have my two sets in front of me to give a direct card-by-card comparison (I can do that later if desired), but here's roughly the differences between the two sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original edition of CotDP has 'Barred from X' cards, where X is a neighborhood. An Investigator gets one of those, they can't go into the relevant neighborhood until the terror level increases and the Barred card goes away. The revised edition replaced them with 'Patrol' markers. When a patrol marker is in a neighborhood, all investigators that pass through a patrolled street must sneak through or be arrested. Similarly, Patrol markers go away when the terror level increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new mechanic to the expansion is the 'Whispering Exhibit' encounters. There's a marker on the board in a street area. If an investigator is in that street area during encounters, they have a Whispering Exhibit encounter. This usually gives the Investigator an opportunity to get an Exhibit Item by passing some sort of check. Then, pass or fail, the encounter specifies a street area to move the Whispering Exhibit marker to. If no one has a Whispering Exhibit encounter during a turn, the marker moves as a moon monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a significant number of card changes. Most, if not all, of the benefit/detriment cards have been re-written to provide different effects. Some Mythos and encounter cards have been rewritten in a effort to be clearer. A good portion of the Exhibit Items effects have been changed, especially the Masks. Most of the Allies have been reworked as well, they no longer provide +2 to 2 different combat states. The Messenger now gives a -1 to everything! Some spells have been changed as well. Plague of Locusts now returns a single monster to the cup rather than weaken everything in the neighborhood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards in the Miskatonic expansion that are meant for the revised edition are additional Whispering Exhibit encounter cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to whether or not the expansion is worth purchasing, I think the revised edition is better than the original. One of my (and many other people's) biggest complaints about the AH expansions is that certain mechanics get severely diluted once you mix in more than one expansion. With the Original edition, as you added in more expansions, the odds you would see an encounter that would mention an exhibit item (let alone actually getting one out of it) would plummet. The Whispering Exhibit mechanic rounds that out nicely; They're always available. Personally, I also thought that the allies in the Original edition of the game were too strong and was glad to see them toned down. The Barred from neighborhood cards were also rarely important. It was rare that one would show up, and it only affected a single investigator. Patrol markers still have to be triggered by encounters, sure, but they only create a minor obstacle for the entire team rather than completely preventing someone being useful in a given neighborhood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T22:21:06.940" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T22:21:06.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T13:57:58.537" Score="4" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Eclipse board game, how do you explore with the wormhole generator? You have to select where you are exploring before you draw a new hex. You must be connected to that empty space with half a wormhole, or a whole wormhole. Does this mean I can explore from an edge of my current hex that does not have a wormhole half as long as I use the wormhole half of the newly drawn hex to connect? Or do I have to explore from an existing wormhole half of the current hex, and I can then connect to an empty edge of the new hex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="350" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T14:12:25.830" Title="How to explore with wormhole generator in Eclipse?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6090" CreationDate="2012-01-11T14:27:17.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our first couple games went very similar to that. Virtually every time we play now though, the humans have dominated. Which is the opposite problem I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large mistake we made in our first game was that we had zombies moving double speed. Don't know how we looked over that in the rules, but make sure you only have zombies moving one space. Ignoring the use of special cards of course. Note that the human players ran roll a die to see how far they would be able to move before choosing to search or run. There's been many a time a player has chosen to stay and search rather than run a futile single space. Make sure that the Zombie Player is evenly distributing zombies within a single spawn among their spawning pits. Don't forget that the Manor House is only in play during the 'Protect the Manor' Scenario. Otherwise it's the big open field. I've found the Manor scenario to a harder, if not the hardest, scenario to win as the Humans by the way. The Zombie player is limited to a hand of four cards, a good number of which involve combat. The less you are in combat, the fewer chances the Zombie player has to use the cards. So if they want new cards, they'll have to discard those combat events (good for the humans) or hold onto the cards and not draw new ones (also good for you, reduces the changes of getting a 'Play Immediately' event)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important thing to consider is that if the scenario you're playing doesn't directly involve killing zombies, it may be better to leave zombies alone if you have the option. Especially since actually killing zombies with a melee weapon doesn't have very good odds. Left to their own devices, the humans will find what they need to get out easily, so the Zombie Player isn't going to be holing up somewhere protecting an area; he just doesn't have the resources to both guard an important area while also putting pressure on the humans. So you're going to be pursued most of the time already, why make it easier to be caught? If you're running from one side of the map to the other and pick off a zombie with a ranged weapon just because you can, this gives the Zombie Player a new figure to work with and they can just spawn them closer to where you were going anyway. Unnecessarily fighting/shooting zombies also gives you a chance to get hurt through combat or lose your weapon (either by running out of bullets or through a Zombie Player card). A human would need four dice to a Zombie's one to have better odds of killing it then getting hurt from the attempt. Plus the zombie player has cards to force rerolls and add additional dice to the zombies. Unless you have found an Instant Kill weapon like the butcher knife (which auto-kills if any of your dice show a 6, regardless of what the Zombie player rolls), survivability-wise, it's always better to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scenario you're playing involves finding specific items, searching buildings is the top priority. You can spend all day killing Zombies, but unless you find the keys and gas, you can't escape in the car, so get to searching! Having the Survivors stick in pairs (while this does make them potential targets for cards like 'This Could Be Our Last Night on Earth') allows you to split up groups of attacking zombies and allows for other strategies, like healing each other, trying to lure zombies away, etc. Make sure you remember though that each Survivor has to fight all the Zombies in their space when they end their turn, even if they're in the same space as someone else. You can only divide the Zombies between Survivors during the Zombie Player turn. Zombie Hunger can be a useful trait to use against to Zombie Player. If a human is within one space of a zombie, the zombie has to move to a human (Zombie Player choice if there are multiple spaces). If a zombie shares a space with a human, it cannot leave. There has also been many human sacrifices to allow another player with a scenario item to escape a building. Remember though, even superior strategy is subject to the whims of the dice gods. Zombies winning ties&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T14:27:17.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-11T18:28:22.787" Score="11" ViewCount="4862" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player activated an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212630&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Æther Vial&lt;/a&gt; with two counters on it to drop in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179547&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meddling Mage&lt;/a&gt; and named a spell already on the stack, would the named spell resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2303" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T12:39:01.737" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T12:39:01.737" Title="Can Meddling Mage Be Used as a Counter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6095" CreationDate="2012-01-11T18:40:37.337" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell on the stack will resolve successfully, even if you name it with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179547&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meddling Mage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179547&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meddling Mage&lt;/a&gt; say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2/1/2006&lt;/strong&gt; If you somehow manage to cast this while other spells are on the stack, those spells won't be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5/1/2009&lt;/strong&gt; Spells with the chosen name that somehow happen to already be on the stack when Meddling Mage enters the battlefield are not affected by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179547&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meddling Mage&lt;/a&gt;'s ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify the old &amp;quot;played&amp;quot; phrasing (which some people confuse with resolve), the Oracle text actually says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The named card can't be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the named spell has already been cast, the existing spell on the stack will still be on the stack after &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179547&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Meddling Mage&lt;/a&gt; has entered, and will still resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did have a creature that was able to counter or exile a spell on the stack (as opposed to the &amp;quot;named card can't be cast&amp;quot; effect) like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=139429&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spellstutter Sprite&lt;/a&gt;, you could put that into play with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212630&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Æther Vial&lt;/a&gt; and have it work they way you're intending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-11T18:45:44.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6098" CreationDate="2012-01-12T05:51:27.510" Score="10" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/faq/&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; for Isotropic's online Dominion game, the creator states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No, you really can reveal a reaction card like Moat or Secret Chamber multiple times. They are designed to be idempotent so there's no point in doing so, but allowing this avoids strange corner cases having to do with Secret Chamber drawing other reaction cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, exactly, are these corner cases?  Can you reveal a reaction card drawn from Secret Chamber, or is there some other strange case drawing a reaction card with Secret Chamber causes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T07:05:03.240" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T07:05:03.240" Title="Why does Online Dominion allow you to reveal reaction cards multiple times?" Tags="|dominion|online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6097" CreationDate="2012-01-12T07:01:34.523" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can reveal a reaction drawn by Secret Chamber.  For example, the following scenario is perfectly valid (according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Dominion_FAQ#toc19&quot;&gt;BGG's Dominion FAQ&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be attacked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal Secret Chamber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw two cards (one Moat), replace two cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal Moat to deflect attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal Secret Chamber again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw two cards, replace two cards (put Moat back on deck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most reaction cards, such as Moat, have no real value to being revealed multiple times during the same trigger.  However, since the rules do not explicitly forbid such behaviour and there may be other edge cases where revealing the same card multiple times has merit, it remains a valid option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T07:01:34.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5634" CreationDate="2012-01-12T10:02:23.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question here is how they revealed the objective so quickly. The main problem I've found with &lt;strong&gt;Mansions of Madness&lt;/strong&gt; is that it doesn't give the Keeper enough info on how to run the game, which you have to figure out for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the first scenario, EVERYTHING should be geared to getting a maniac out and stealing samples as fast as possible, then &lt;strong&gt;forcing investigators to chase him&lt;/strong&gt; rather than seeking the objective. The zombies can also be used in the same fashion, or be used as &quot;blockers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the players &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; stop the sample carrier, you can quickly build up enough threat that you can simply waylay them with Mythos cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage you have is that by combining &quot;Steal Sample&quot; and &quot;Command Minion&quot;, you can move 3 spaces on any turn where you start off sharing a space with an investigator, which allows you to outpace your foes and usually put a wall between yourself and any bullets, and that in the early turns you can gather Panic and Mythos without spending threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combine this stuff with a continual pounding on their weaker stat (generally sanity for men, and health for women), and you can really slow them down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Break a leg. No, literally, get them down to 4 health, and &lt;em&gt;break their leg&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T15:26:15.247" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T15:26:15.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-12T10:30:18.353" Score="17" ViewCount="1154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I`m interested in developing a few variants of a DIY board game in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Open_source&quot;&gt;open source&lt;/a&gt; fashion. &#xA;For a start, I need to choose an online platform for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could be a solution for public elaboration and publicizing? Is there something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/&quot;&gt;SourceForge&lt;/a&gt; (a hosting, bug tracking and community site for open source software), but for board games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2311" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T14:50:34.050" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T09:40:27.087" Title="Is there an online platform for collaborative development of a board game?" Tags="|prototyping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2774" CreationDate="2012-01-12T10:51:29.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having played the game about 4 times now, it seems to me that designing a new campaign for Mansions of Madness is possible, as everything, including which powers the Keeper has, is entirely mix-and-match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's far more a stripped-down Dungeons and Dragons than a traditional board game. You'd effectively have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come up with a game-style concept (e.g. Monsters, monsters EVERYWHERE!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come up with a story to justify that concept (e.g. A witch is opening a plane to the Cthonic regions in exchange for the resurrection of her sister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come up with a set of hidden objectives (e.g. get out before you're used in the ritual, stop her from opening the gate, kill her and her undead sister)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come up with a set of clues (e.g. Discover how to interrupt the ritual successfully and safely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come up with a time set (e.g. The 5 stages of the ritual, each one summoning progressively more horrible thingummies)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then work out how to layout the board to fit the story, and how to prevent the players from reaching the objectives too soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue is the clues, which have to &lt;em&gt;look like the provided exploration cards&lt;/em&gt;, but have to be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious solution is to simply use existing clue cards, but tell your players to ignore the flavour text, and instead at the point of discovery, hand them your own prepared cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T16:01:19.260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:01:19.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3826" CreationDate="2012-01-12T11:00:11.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While @ire_and_curses didn't think his was a particularly good answer, his comment led me to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/dungeonquest/support/dq-combat-variants.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official alternate combat rules (pdf link)&lt;/a&gt; on Fantasy Flight's website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For novice players, the dice variant is very good (although I adjusted it to make Demons vulnerable to Strength or Luck, whichever is higher, as I felt that they're as magical as Sorcerors)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more experienced players, you can then move to the classic rules, and from there to the standard rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T11:00:11.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6092" CreationDate="2012-01-12T14:12:25.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that you must select the unexplored space you wish to explore before drawing the hex tile from the appropriate stack. And yes, if you have the wormhole generator technology, you may explore a space adjacent to a side of your controlled hex that does not have a wormhole half. However, you must then make sure you orient the new hex so that a half wormhole is positioned next to that side of the new hex. If you look at the examples on page 9 of the rulebook the hex marked D, which is a legal placement for a player with a wormhole generator, is an example of the above described situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1818" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T14:12:25.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6107" CreationDate="2012-01-12T16:01:11.310" Score="54" ViewCount="247464" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic Settlers of Catan game is designed to work for 3-4 players (or more with 5-6 Player Extension). No 2 player variant is suggested by the rules, and for good reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trades (an exciting part of the regular game) rarely make sense&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No slow-the-leader mechanisms like trade embargoes or coordinated robber placement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The normal board setup offers too little constraint/competition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An early game non-moving robber too strongly influences game outcome&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal rules/setup therefore result in quick but dull games where whoever gains the early lead wins over 90% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is how do you modify Settlers of Catan to make it good for 2 players, without including auto-generated additional players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I provide one such answer below that we've used in many games, but I'm totally open to suggestions for improvements on my answer, and/or alternative play-tested systems developed by other Catan enthusiasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-12T19:06:21.720" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T11:51:35.360" Title="How do you make Settlers of Catan work well for 2 players? (Problems and play-tested solution described, alternatives requested)" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5308" CreationDate="2012-01-12T16:13:13.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you fail the Test on a card, the investigator holding it still keeps the card &lt;em&gt;UNLESS SPECIFICALLY TOLD TO DISCARD IT&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your penalty with the tomes is that you've blown your action. The tome remains in your possession, so you can try again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the question, it seems like there's confusion. When you discover the tome by exploring, it's just equipment you pick up. You have to use another action (normally on another turn) to actually read it, but you can carry it around with you till you find a safe place to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:13:13.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5082" CreationDate="2012-01-12T16:18:41.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah, I struggled with this as well. The order in the manual is the order in which you &lt;em&gt;lay the cards down&lt;/em&gt;, so the card at the end of the list is the card that ends up on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the exploration cards will always be under the obstacles/locks, and in the rare case where a room contains an obstacle and a lock, the lock will always be on top of the obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, equipment and clues are always on top of &quot;nothing of interest&quot; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2012-01-12T16:18:41.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2012-01-12T19:17:58.643" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played many enjoyable games with the following system that does nothing to deal with the loss of trading, but handles the other issues raised above quite well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ih7cR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Setup for 2 Player Settlers of Catan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change hex setup to barbell shape (see picture)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 of each resource hex (ores always placed as shown with 3-8-11,&#xA;rest randomized)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 randomized ports (5 2:1, 3 3:1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A set of randomized numbers on either side of barbell (set 1:&#xA;4,5,8,9,10,11) (set 2: 2,3,5,6,9,10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 victory points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7's get rerolled for the first 6 rounds of play (we call this&#xA;&quot;Robber Delay&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Robber Equalizer rule:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Robber Equalizer rule is our slow-the-leader mechanism, and it works by making rolls of 7 less and less likely to stick the further behind you are. First determine how far behind you are by counting up victory points in the normal manner for settlements and cities (but don't include longest road or largest army). Then add 1/3 for each played soldier, each road link, and each unplayed development card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 7 rolled by someone who is behind always counts. Each time a 7 is rolled by the player who is ahead, reroll the dice and the 7 sticks if the roll is high enough according to the chart - for example if you're ahead by 1 and 2/3, you need to roll 6 or higher for the robber to stick:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Point  Minimum&#xA;Diff.  Roll&#xA;1/3    2&#xA;2/3    3&#xA;1      4&#xA;1 1/3  5&#xA;1 2/3  6&#xA;2      7&#xA;2 1/3  8&#xA;2 2/3  9&#xA;3      10&#xA;3 1/3  11&#xA;3 2/3  12&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the robber does not stick, then then the dice must be rerolled, and only a number other than 7 will count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've played dozens of games with these rules and the games are fairly balanced thanks to the Robber Equalizer rule, though the rule does lead to not being so afraid about having to discard half your hand later in the game as the 7 may not stick, which can be an advantage to the player in the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-15T05:24:42.330" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T05:24:42.330" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6109" CreationDate="2012-01-12T22:04:24.613" Score="13" ViewCount="3290" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic, there's a style of deck known as &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Aggro-control_deck&quot;&gt;aggro-control&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, which plays a mixture of cheap threats and disruption (especially counterspells). Against a pure control deck, aggro-control seeks to set up quickly in the early turns and then protect its board position from sweepers and spot removal using countermagic, long enough to get an opponent to 0 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a control player's perspective, this can be a difficult situation because you're on a pretty fast clock, but your normal tricks against aggro decks (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=186309&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt; on turn 4) just don't work with any degree of consistency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some strategies that you can employ, either during deckbuilding or in play, to improve a control deck's performance against aggro-control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T03:40:25.787" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T22:44:01.347" Title="What are effective strategies for playing control against aggro-control?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6108" CreationDate="2012-01-13T00:44:51.153" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try playing more spot removal (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m11/en/11.html&quot;&gt;Condemn&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/cmd/en/25.html&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;) instead of mass removal. Typically aggro-control decks have problems if you succesfully remove their first threats. This way the control deck won't die in the early turns and will be in a good position to win the game, because it has a better late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason behind spot removal being better than mass removal in this kind of match-up is that it demands more answers: they only need a single counterspell to deal with your Day of Judgment, but they will need two if you play two Condemn. However, they'll need two answers if you play a second Day of Judgment, but usually you wont survive to your next turn if they counter the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T00:44:51.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4019" CreationDate="2012-01-13T11:07:15.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the french defense is not a cramped defense (or else Mihail Botvinnik would not have been a world champion). The french defense is one of the most solid defenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the black squared bishop it is a great piece for black in many cases, a great piece as black's pawns are in white squares with great movility from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white squared bishop can be very useful also if you know how to use it. Anyways if you dont like it, it can almost allways be exchanged for white's bishop simply by doing b6 and Ba6 (very simple, isnt it?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also want to say these defenses are not always quiet. You can take a look at the winawer system (as complex and aggresive or even more than the sicilian) that derivates from the french defense: 1 e4 e6 2 d4 d5 3 Nc3 Bb4 4 e5 c5 5 a3 Bxc3+ 6 bxc3. Very dangerous for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2315" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T11:07:15.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6114" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:06:26.860" Score="7" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always have a hard time to decide if I should use a counter spell in a given situation and one step earlier if I should save enough mana for a counter spell this round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently facing this problem with my variation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=368519&quot;&gt;Solar Flare&lt;/a&gt;. The main idea of this deck is to stall the game for at least 5 to 6 rounds while building up your graveyard and overpower the opponent with fat creatures afterwards when the fifth or sixth land is out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My counter spell of choice is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241831&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;. My dilemma is, that I usually want to use it early in the game, because it is harder for my opponent to pay the additional mana cost and my plan is to stall him anyway in the beginning. On the downside I have used my counter spells often before the real threats are out there and my opponent feels comfortable in the middle to end game because he knows that it is unlikely that I have any more counter spells available. I also do not want to use my counter spells after round 5, because I usually need my mana in those rounds to pump out and resurrect creatures. Without any ramps in this deck I have no flexibility to save up mana each turn instead of playing my creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the expert opinion on that dilemma? How do I decide when to use my counter spells? Can I even formulate such a strategy without knowing the deck of my opponent well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:52:10.390" Title="How to decide if I should use a counterspell in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:28:11.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always consider what is being cast and how it might impact me.  A 2/2 first striker?  I won't worry too much about it because I have other answers for that.  A 1/1 infect flyer?  That can be a pain from time to time so I might get rid of that.  As others have suggested anthems are probably not worth countering unless they're really a threat ... Honor of the Pure?  Maybe not ... True Conviction?  Countered!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know what threats your deck can otherwise clear, so concentrate on the stuff you don't have good answers for and on things that seem key to your opponent's strategy (of which you have imperfect knowledge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:28:11.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:31:35.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, knowing the (approximate) deck of your opponent well will certainly help you immeasurably when deciding what to counter.  But assuming you have no idea what he's playing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to understand your own game plan.  As you say, you want to survive until the sixth or seventh turn, at which point you have better things to do.  So, you'll have to counter or otherwise deal with spells which threaten to kill or severely damage you before the mid-game rolls around.  For instance, you probably won't need to counter spells like Ponder that merely improve your opponent's card selection; but you will definitely want to stop him getting down efficient turn-2 and turn-3 beaters, especially if you have no other removal in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deciding when to &lt;em&gt;leave up&lt;/em&gt; counter mana is even harder than deciding when to counter something, but it follows the same basic principles: if I tap out now, and my opponent plays creature x, is it going to cause &lt;em&gt;serious&lt;/em&gt; problems for my game plan?  If so, it may be better not to take the risk and keep the counter option available, even if this slows down your development.  It's a risk-reward thing - in this respect, sometimes Magic is a lot like poker...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:31:35.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6111" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:37:32.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering your link to Solar Flare builds, I'll assume you're talking about the Standard format as of right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing of your counters relies heavily on what deck your opponent is running.  To some extent, it does rely on knowing your opponent's deck, but most Standard decks fall into an archtype.  Recognizing those archtypes isn't too difficult if you spend some time in the format, and recognition means you'll know what some of the more commonly-run threats for those decks are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your opponent is running aggro and is effectively racing to see if they can take you down before you can start to get some of your meaner cards (traditionally Sun Titan into a Liliana via Unburial Rites, etc.), you need to be able to survive their early game.  This may mean throwing counters away early on, on things that could build into bigger threats (e.g. Lord of the Unreal, Phantasmal Image, Stromkirk Noble, etc.) to slow them down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your opponent is running control, you're looking for bombs and other counters.  They're doing the same thing as you; playing the waiting game, looking for the opportunity to get something game-winning through.  This often means a slow game, where each player will play a land and then pass, leaving mana open for counters and their-turn fun (like White Sun's Zenith, Blue Sun's Zenith, and Forbidden Alchemy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Midrange decks are much harder to gauge - you'll often have to play a game before you get a good feeling for what their bombs are, what you're watching out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, one of the strongest things you can do is threaten a counter.  Whether or not you have one in hand (and whether or not you're even playing them, if you're still playing blue), if you leave mana open for a counter, they may not play a more threatening card for risk of it getting countered.  Never let your opponent feel comfortable - even if you've played three Mana Leaks, what's to say you don't have another counter (Dissipate, Negate, etc.), or destruction, or a Snapcaster!  For this reason, I'd caution against tapping out, as you lose this threat entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more note - there's a reason Snapcaster Mage is so popular! Every Snapcaster (ideally used) means another Mana Leak, Dissipate, Doom Blade, Go for the Throat, or Dismember that you've already used once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2012-01-13T16:52:10.390" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:52:10.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6100" CreationDate="2012-01-13T16:55:33.583" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that there's any single thing &lt;em&gt;designed&lt;/em&gt; for this; it's quite a small niche. However, you might be able to piece something together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, a wiki sounds like a very natural fit for hosting and editing the rules for your game. But the general idea seems solid: you can have a page or many, organized how you need, for the rules, include pictures when necessary. You can easily create offshoot discussion pages, linked to as appropriate, group them into categories/listings, put boilerplate at the top to indicate status of the discussions, and so on. An alternative with a steeper learning curve and and startup effort for contributors would be to simply keep your rules in text format in a hosted version control repository and then use other features of the hosting (particularly issue tracker) to do the other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll probably want to do a lot of iteration and playtesting. I've been pretty impressed with what I've seen people pull off with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/index.php&quot;&gt;Vassal&lt;/a&gt; modules. Vassal is a generic game engine, which lets you create boards, pieces, cards, tiles, and so on. You can play the games with others online. There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/mediawiki/images/b/b0/Vassal_3.1_designerguide.pdf&quot;&gt;designers guide&lt;/a&gt; as well as a FAQ page on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Creating_Modules&quot;&gt;creating modules&lt;/a&gt;. This would give you the platform you need to test things out. You'd probably want to store the module in some sort of version control; unfortunately it's an all-in-one file, edited within vassal, so you won't be able to much in the way of branching and merging, if there are many collaborators. Depending on the scale of your project, it might be sufficient to simply have file hosting, and store numbered versions, or you might want more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that SourceForge might actually be a great candidate for all of this! It supports project wikis, file hosting (for your vassal modules), and revision control repositories (perhaps for your rules, if you don't want them on a wiki). You just have to decide how you're going to use it. Just think: a board game isn't &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; different from a computer game. It's just written in a &quot;programming&quot; language that humans, not computers, understand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know this isn't a terribly complete or specific answer; perhaps others can contribute more.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T16:55:33.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2012-01-13T18:36:44.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a diagonal of bombs backed by sevens to protect your flag. I go&#xA;back and forth between a pyramid toward the middle or a diagonal on&#xA;each corner, with a six or above instead of a bomb on one side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your one for one aisle, your two and spy for another, and at&#xA;least one three for the last. Try to keep enough space clear that&#xA;you can maneuver these pieces around. Once you've really pinched&#xA;all three aisles, it's hard to lose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save some spies for later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T18:36:44.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6132" CreationDate="2012-01-13T22:25:59.433" Score="26" ViewCount="19085" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/cardsearch.php?singlesearch=Bazaar+of+Baghdad&quot; title=&quot;Land, Tap: Draw two cards, then discard three cards.&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bazaar of Baghdad&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Land) Tap: Draw two cards, then discard three cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost everywhere I've seen has it as over 200$, and most of the Arabian Nights set is much cheaper than that, so I assume its ability is extremely powerful. However, I can't really figure out why. It gives you a net loss of 1 card no matter what, and I suppose its ability could be compared to having the ability to mulligan later in the game but have a wider choice of cards to pick as your new hand. It would help you find a specific card in your deck if you're running a strategy based on that card (and I notice its most popular in vintage, where this is more prominent) I could see it being a decent card, I can't see where it might otherwise be valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Bazaar of Baghdad an extremely good card? What decks would it work best in? How would I know when to use its ability in a game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T15:43:29.200" Title="Why is Bazaar of Baghdad supposedly such a good card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2012-01-13T22:57:02.680" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;most of the Arabian Nights set is much cheaper than that, so I assume its ability is extremely powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bazaar of Baghdad is from one of the first MtG expansions with a relatively small print run and is on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/products/reprintpolicy&quot;&gt;Reserved List&lt;/a&gt; (won't be reprinted), so that's going to make it more expensive regardless of utility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It would help you find a specific card in your deck if you're running a strategy based on that card (and I notice its most popular in vintage, where this is more prominent) I could see it being a decent card, I can't see where it might otherwise be valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you answer your own question. Many Vintage decks are based on broken combos. Many broken combos like to have certain cards, or many cards, in the graveyard. Important point you may be missing: it's a land, so it can't be countered. Its effect costs zero mana and is repeatable. With that in mind, any card that basically says &quot;pay zero mana. draw two cards. put three in the graveyard&quot; is going to be very very desirable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is Bazaar of Baghdad an extremely good card? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What decks would it work best in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combo decks. Reanimator decks. Graveyard decks. It's not legendary, so you can have multiples. It can be untapped by, say, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202627&quot;&gt;Candelabra of Tawnos&lt;/a&gt; and reused. It can enable crazy graveyard strategies like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=88960&quot;&gt;Golgari Grave-Troll&lt;/a&gt;. Play it with flashback spells to turn the card disadvantage into an advantage. If you don't want to lose your cards to the graveyard, it combos nicely with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Library%20of%20Leng&quot;&gt;Library of Leng&lt;/a&gt;. Play it with draw spells or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247316&quot;&gt;Howling Mines&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How would I know when to use its ability in a game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have card advantage, are looking for a game-winning combo piece, or need an answer &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt;. Any deck built to rely on it is probably going to use it as soon as possible, as often as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-01-14T18:52:36.090" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T18:52:36.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2012-01-13T22:58:30.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A draw-and-discard card is more powerful than just a late-game mulligan.  The key is that in an open format (especially Vintage), an extra card discarded is not necessarily a 'loss'.  One obvious use, for example, is in discard-and-resurrect decks, planning to discard powerful creatures and flashback spells early, then resurrect them into play for less than their casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost is increased disproportionately by age, however. Arabian Nights / Antiquities came out before magic &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; took off, and hence there were quite a low absolute number of cards printed compared to later expansions.  Short form: it's very rare now, and useful.  Hence expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T22:58:30.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2012-01-13T23:05:57.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bazaar of Baghdad is a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; good card.  A good description of its usages can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/11119_Playing_With_Bazaar_of_Baghdad.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this SCG article&lt;/a&gt;.  From that article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of the most powerful effects in Magic the Gathering history is the interaction between Squee, Goblin Nabob and Bazaar of Baghdad. These two cards have the power to create card advantage like very few things can. Once operating, this combo creates a virtual Ancestral Recall, for free each turn, which cannot be countered by conventional means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a reusable non-counterable draw-discard engine.  This means it's incredibly useful with graveyard and discard mechanics; namely, Dredge, Madness, and Flashback.  It essentially lets you filter through your library piece by piece, with the only real cost being one less land usable for mana and the loss of a card from your hand.  This is offset by its usability in winning games quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T15:12:22.217" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:12:22.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2012-01-13T23:49:57.667" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it sounds like the leader you are describing is Hammurabi, but he only applies for Age A and 1 (he will die at the end of age 1), so there's no way he should have been impeding bids for Historic Territory 2 (an Age 2 event card that by definition couldn't have come out by then).  Are you sure you're playing everything right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you don't mention if you're playing the Advanced Game or the Full Game, but it's important, because there are significant differences between them in what works and what doesn't.  I'll try to highlight some of the important differences.  But here are some things to think about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Science is probably the most important thing in the game, barring your final culture score (of course).  Not resources, food, CAs or anything else, but science.  You can work around most other things, but science is the wellspring from which all the advances you can make are.  Also, unlike almost everything else in the game, you can't really have too much of it.  The first strategic question you have to answer is &quot;where am I going to get more science income&quot;.  It can be from Alchemy, it could be from Printing Press (which is only so-so but is sometimes necessary), it could be from the Universitas - whatever it is, figure it out.  Alchemy is probably the card I reach deep for early most often in the game, and if it's the last one, it's almost a must grab.  I can't emphasize this enough:  when in doubt, do something to increase your science.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, of course, comes CAs.  Civil Actions give you a lot more options and control over your fate.  Science is what allows you to gain CAs (mostly), so that's one of the reasons for science's supremacy, but if you don't increase your CAs, you can't troubleshoot effectively.  And that's what TtA is, in the full game:  you're troubleshooting problems from turn to turn, keeping your civilization as efficient as possible.  Try and plan out what you're going to do here.  Early Monarchy?  Were you lucky enough to draw Pyramids?  Are you going to reach for the first age 2 government that slides out and revolt to it?  Whatever you do, try and keep your science balance at a point that will allow you to make your governmental switches efficient.  And don't worry about losing some resources to corruption!  A couple rocks is a small price to pay to switch to something like ConMon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably the next thing I look at is military.  Trying to win with military is a crapshoot.  You just might not draw the cards you need to make it work, and if you overinvested, somebody else is going to clobber you on points.  But while you can't be sure about winning with military, you sure as heck can lose the game with it.  I always check, every turn, what my relative position is, how many D/C cards I am back of the leaders, how many cards they've been drawing and how many I'm about to draw and everything else.  If I am vulnerable, I have to fix this problem.  If there's only one person that's in a position to whack you, maybe you can get away with it - especially if there's a juicier target out there!  But you have to be aware of your position with everybody else and then take steps to fix things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, you get to make progress on other stuff.  Try and increase your resource production first, because that enables you do do most other stuff (although you can use a high CA civ with yellow cards to cover for a lack of rocks pretty well).  Food, you just want to keep at a reasonable level, you can over-invest in it pretty easily.  Try and see how many cards people are seeding in the event deck and guesstimate if you need to keep some troops available for colonization.  But if you've fixed those other problems, you can start applying your discretion here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A word about events:  don't just seed them with no good reason.  Don't put something in you think you might benefit from.  Just put it in if you're reasonably confident.  And if you're behind on military, particularly early in the game, don't seed anything!  You're just helping your opponents get gnarly stuff like Border Conflict, Uncertain Borders, Raiders, Foray and all that other stuff out faster.  Don't help them out, make them do all the work.  Then, maybe when you get back on top on military, there will be some of that junk still left in the deck to take advantage of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that nowhere in there did I mention culture.  That's because, by and large, culture is an accident not a goal up until mid-to-late age 2.  That's not true if more than one person sprints early, then you might have to invest some just to not fall too far behind, but if there's only one clear culture leader, I don't worry about it.  Don't build Dramas or the Taj Mahal - those rocks are better spent on Bread &amp;amp; Circuses and the Universitas.  Invest in infrastructure, infrastructure, infrastructure and then when you hit age 3, you'll be able to crank out a ton of culture (and slaughter them on impacts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-01-13T23:49:57.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6123" CreationDate="2012-01-14T15:24:29.127" Score="9" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have trouble with learning what pieces to sacrifice when.  Any good examples or playable scenarios on the web to help guide with that?  My biggest problem is in the early game, learning what to sacrifice to move pawns out of play so I can move other pieces up the board.  Any assistance would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T05:53:46.077" Title="Chess - Learning to Sacrifice Pieces for the Greater Good" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6122" CreationDate="2012-01-14T17:40:29.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sacrifice made at the beginning, with no clear and immediate advantage, is called a &lt;em&gt;gambit&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no hard &quot;rule&quot; for when a gambit is worthwhile or not; it all comes down to what &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3225/what-factors-should-be-considered-before-doubling-pawns/3229#3229&quot;&gt;imbalances&lt;/a&gt; it gives you, and whether you think you can use those to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danish_Gambit#Main_variations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Danish Gambit (accepted)&lt;/a&gt;, white sacrifices two pawns, hoping the extra space/development he gains will help mount an early attack.  In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queen%27s_Gambit_Accepted&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Queen's Gambit (accepted)&lt;/a&gt;, on the other hand, white sacrifices the pawn knowing he will either get it back, or black will have to severely weaken his position to hold onto it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-01-14T17:40:29.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2012-01-15T00:34:58.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're playing 5 player sheepshead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are leading and the picker. (Seemed implied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your hand isn't super-strong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the &quot;Lead a singleton fail Ace&quot; ploy. As we know, there are 6 cards of fail. In order to have a singleton fail Ace, either the player was singleton before burying, or the player buried other fail in the suit. In the latter case, I'd avoid leading the singleton Ace (it's expected to be trumped). In the former case: why wasn't the singleton Ace buried? Could be a weak pickup. Regardless, the expectation for leading a singleton Ace is that three players have exactly one of the fail and one player has exactly two of the fail. It demonstrates a weak position to the other players (perhaps you can see the perspiration appearing on one of the players and deduce that to be your partner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to like the basic strategy of draining trump. Lead JD or higher. Expect to pull three of &quot;their&quot; trump for two of &quot;your&quot; trump. Expect to lose AD or TD on this trick (unless you buried them). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on where the holes are in your trump, you might want to play high or low. Say, you have QC, QH, QD, and are missing QS. You can gamble with QC (know your counts!), or you can drop QD on the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a situation where my pickup wasn't terribly strong, I'm definitely seeking to drain my opponents of their chance to trump fail. It may risk AD or TD, but I'd rather lose an early trump trick than have the table pile points. (On the opponent side, if the strategy is to throw points on tricks even when the partner is unknown (odds in the opponents' favor, and might be the only chance), it's likely the lone Ace will be trumped and shmeered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HTH,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyler&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2322" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T00:34:58.517" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-15T19:44:14.980" Score="16" ViewCount="14455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've enjoyed &lt;em&gt;Dixit&lt;/em&gt; greatly with groups of 5 and 6, and I'm curious if it needs any rule variations to extend it further. I was thinking perhaps requiring at least 2 players to guess the correct card instead of just 1 when playing with 8 or more people, because otherwise the storyteller can tell a rather unspecific story and still rely on 1 person getting it by guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;em&gt;Dixit&lt;/em&gt; need any adjustments to play with more than 6 players? If so, which rules would you recommend adding and at what number of players? How would the overall game change when more people were added?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not worry about running out of cards to use and having to reshuffle to keep the game going. If you're curious, I actually use &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; cards to play the game, so we have a deck of around 250 cards, which is more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-25T18:55:20.863" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T15:16:01.800" Title="Does Dixit need any modifications to play with 7, 8, 9, and 10 players?" Tags="|house-rules|dixit|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6122" CreationDate="2012-01-15T20:33:31.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I look at a sacrifice as an &quot;exchange in disguise.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you have a (castled) rook on the open f file, which you &quot;sacrifice&quot; for the knight on f6. Technically it's a sacrifice of 5 for 3. But maybe that knight is a key defender and Black is helpless without it. Also, if the rook is recaptured by the g pawn, that alone, is worth the sacrifice, because you've removed the f knight AND g pawn (now doubled on the f file) for &quot;only&quot; the rook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-15T20:33:31.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-15T20:51:29.613" Score="5" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I start out a chess game in this manner: &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/reCxP&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/reCxP&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/48FPH.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this advantage, I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which item should I sacrifice so I can gain better ground position?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I advance the pawns on the right, or leave as protection for the king?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any other advice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T07:15:23.303" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T08:04:47.217" Title="Developing Chess Game After 20 moves" Tags="|chess|positional-judgement|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2012-01-16T00:02:27.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/27760/catan-traders-barbarians&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traders and Barbarians&lt;/a&gt; expansion includes an official two player varient that involves having two fake players (one of whom will build at the same time as a real player does) and tokens (gained by building in unfavourable locations, such as by the desert) that can force trades and make the robber flee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/21616/klaus2player-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; is available from BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1137" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T00:02:27.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-16T02:21:15.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Dixit need any modifications for more players?&#xA;You need some way for each of those players to secretly bid on what card they think is correct (numbered playing cards could work). As for the number of players affecting how likely it is for a random guess to give them points, let's do some math and find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume in all these examples that the storyteller's card is card #1. Player2 plays card 2, Player3 plays card 3, etc.. Let's ignore 3-player alternate rules variant for playing 2 cards. Player's also cannot vote for their own cards (from the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3-Player&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 25% Player2 guesses #1 Player3 guesses #1, Storyteller gets 0 points, other players get 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 25% Player2 guesses #1 Player3 guesses #2, Storyteller gets 3 points, Player2 gets 4 (+1 from Player3's wrong guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) 25% Player2 guesses #3 Player3 guesses #2, Storyteller gets 0 points, other players get 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) 25% Player2 guesses #3 Player3 guesses #1, Storyteller gets 3 points, Player3 gets 4 (+1 from Player2's wrong guess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works out to an average score of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3-Player&lt;/strong&gt; Storyteller 1.50 points, Non-Storyteller 2.25 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to bother you with the math for the calculations, did this in a spreadsheet. (x points/y outcomes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4-Player&lt;/strong&gt; Storyteller 2.000 points (54/27), Non-Storyteller 1.630 points (44/27).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5-Player&lt;/strong&gt; Storyteller 2.039 points (522/256), Non-Storyteller 1.496 points (383/256).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6-Player&lt;/strong&gt; Storyteller 2.016 points (6300/3125), Non-Storyteller 1.400 points (4374/3125).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess as to the average results for 7, 8, 9, and 10 players is that the Storyteller's average points will approach 2 as the number of players reaches infinity, and the Non-Storyteller's average points will approach 1 as the number of players reaches infinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A way to curb the Storyteller from just giving bogus clues, would be to give out bonus points depending upon the number of players. In a 6-player game, approximately 40% (1280/3125) of the time only a single player will get the answer right. If you give out 5 (number of guessers) or 6 (number of players) bonus points to the single guesser that got the answer right, this will add an additional 2.05 or 2.46 point on average to the Non-Storyteller players. This should discourage giving bad clues, since employing a bad clue strategy will on average put you 2 to 2 1/2 points behind. This should scale well, because as the number of players increase, the number of bonus points increases. If you do need to extend this further (not sure you need to, but I haven't worked out the odds of only exactly one person getting it right for 7, 8, ... players), you could give out bonus points rounded down for the total number of players that got it right. (example, 10-Player game: if one person gets it right +10 points, if two people get it right +5 points each, if 3 people get it right +3 points each, ...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T02:21:15.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="91" CreationDate="2012-01-16T02:43:49.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Outs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are one or more cards still to be dealt and you think your hand is currently inferior to an opponent's hand, the &quot;outs&quot; are cards not yet revealed to you that will improve your hand from a losing to a winning position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have [Ac] [8d] in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The flop is [7h] [3d] [Ks].&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have an Ace-high. Based on his betting in this hand or earlier in the game, gut instinct, the fact you've seen his cards, whatever, you think your opponent has a pair of Kings. So you think are currently in a losing position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you hit an Ace on the Turn, you will have a pair of Aces, which beats a pair of Kings. There are four Aces in a deck, you have one of them, so there are three unaccounted for, so you have three outs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more complicated example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have [Ah] [Qh] in the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The flop is [5h] [Kh] [Qs].&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a pair of Queens, and a four-flush in Hearts. You think your opponent has a pair of Kings, so you think are currently in a losing position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there a number of cards that will improve your hand sufficiently to beat a pair of Kings. Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any of the three remaining Aces will give you two pairs, Aces and Queens;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either of the two remaining Queens will give you three of a kind, Queens;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any of the nine remaining Hearts will give you a Heart flush;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you have 3+2+9 = 14 outs. Of course, if any of these happens, your opponent still has at least five outs - the two as yet unseen Kings, which would give him three Kings, and the three cards of the same rank as his second hole card, which would give him two pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this is of interest to you is that it enables you to calculate what chance you have of improving your current hand to a winning hand, which in turn enables you to calculate how much you can bet (as a percentage of the pot) and still have a positive expected value for that bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Out_%28poker%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a more comprehensive explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T02:57:22.960" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T02:57:22.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6125" CreationDate="2012-01-16T02:46:00.160" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dixit Odyssey&lt;/em&gt; has rules for 7+ players.  The suggested scoring system for 7+ players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player has two vote tokens, not just one.  They can split their guess between two cards if they want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all players correctly identify the storyteller's card, or none do, everyone except the storyteller receives two points each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, the storyteller receives three points and so does anyone else who correctly identifies the storyteller's card.  If they only used one of their two votes, they receive a bonus point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each other card, the person who played it gets a bonus point (to a maximum of three) for each player who voted for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends when the first player reaches 30 points.  Calculate the rest of the scoring for the round (in case someone overtakes), and then the winner of the game is the person with the highest number of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="477" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T02:46:00.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2012-01-16T08:48:15.380" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;While all of these answers get at some measure of Bazaar's popularity, I should note (as Ian does somewhat in passing) that virtually all of Bazaar's value at this point comes from it being &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; key card in the Vintage Dredge deck; Madness and Flashback are both effectively moot, but in Vintage Dredge is an immensely powerful strategy.  Note that in the Dredge decks, Bazaar is &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; upside; drawing 2 cards means you have two opportunities to dredge, and the discard 3 puts cards in your graveyard where you want them - Dredge would rather &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have cards in its hand!  See, for instance, the first decklist at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/22161_New_Phyrexia_In_Vintage_Dredge.html&quot;&gt;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/22161_New_Phyrexia_In_Vintage_Dredge.html&lt;/a&gt; - this is a pretty good example of Bazaar at its most powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T15:10:59.613" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:10:59.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6136" CreationDate="2012-01-16T11:35:45.537" Score="5" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are insanely many tsumego in existence, but many of them are very artificial and would never occur in real games. While any tsumego helps to improve, specifically learning shapes likely to be encountered in actual games would be of great benefit. I'm especially thinking of fast games with little time to actually read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any collections of problems that are likely to occur in real games, or at least close to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T17:51:45.823" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T03:44:54.280" Title="A reference of practical tsumego?" Tags="|go|tsumego|study|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6134" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-16T11:36:48.063" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T11:36:48.063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T11:36:48.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6135" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-16T11:36:48.063" Score="0" Body="Studying seriously to improve one's skill in a game." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T11:36:48.063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T11:36:48.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2012-01-16T13:57:45.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?LifeAndDeathTheBook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Life and Death&lt;/a&gt; by James Davies is part of the Elementary Go series, and has a systematic treatment of common shapes.  It has saved me more reading time than I can count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T13:57:45.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2012-01-16T13:58:52.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GetStrongAtLifeAndDeath&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Get Strong at Life and Death&lt;/a&gt; starts with a section on standard shapes. The second part of the book contains problems arising from joseki and joseki variations.  This is an advanced book - aimed at dan-level players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T13:58:52.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6138" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6139" CreationDate="2012-01-16T14:00:52.097" Score="6" ViewCount="2147" Body="&lt;p&gt;In collectible card games there is usually a maximum number of each card one can use in a deck for constructed formats. As a reference, take Magic: The Gathering where most formats allow for 4 of each card (except basic lands) to be played in each deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a similar limit to the number of cards in a Netrunner CCG deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T00:40:40.023" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T23:04:45.173" Title="Is there a limit to the maximum number of each card in a Netrunner deck?" Tags="|deck-building|netrunner-ccg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6138" CreationDate="2012-01-16T14:34:14.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, there are no card limits.  (Except for the Agenda limit in the Corp deck, there are no deck design limits of any kind.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a reaction by Richard Garfield to a design mistake in Magic.  Originally he thought rarity alone would keep powerful cards balanced, not anticipating the way the collector market would grow.  WotC shortly learned that rarity was irrelevant for this; powerful cards also needed to be high-cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the next two games, Jyhad and NetRunner, the design team tried to make sure that every card was costed correctly and not game-breaking even en masse.  So neither game had a card limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(They didn't always do a &lt;em&gt;perfect&lt;/em&gt; job, so some tournaments impose card limits, but the game rules don't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2012-01-16T18:47:38.730" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T18:47:38.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6141" CreationDate="2012-01-16T15:13:24.763" Score="5" ViewCount="2793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cosmic Encounter was the first of many games based on the idea that you get some special power that allows you to break a rule in the game. Which powers were best?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I include two answers for this question, one based on my own data set, another based on a combination of 3 different players' data sets. Both sets of data are from the early 1980s, based on Ted Schmeckpeper's data collection method (http://daveola.com/CosmicEncounter/Magazine/Encounter.1.3.pdf): Each game is worth a number of points equal to the number of players, and these points are divided among the winning players and their powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the two answers I provide below for the 1977 EON version of Cosmic Encounter, this would be a great place to collect additional data sets on any of the more popular versions of Cosmic Encounter. So feel free to post as answers more data sets, links to data sets, or tabulated results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T15:50:37.760" Title="Cosmic Encounter Data: Which powers are best?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6140" CreationDate="2012-01-16T15:29:29.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following tabulated results are from over 500 games of the 1977 EON version of Cosmic Encounter. The vast majority of games were from 3 to 5 players, and I personally played in approximately half of them. Due to the high variability in game outcomes, one has to question the statistical significance of powers played only a small number of times (&amp;lt; 15?). The label headings are defined as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Games:&lt;/strong&gt; Number of games played&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wins:&lt;/strong&gt; Number of games won (solo + shared)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solo:&lt;/strong&gt; Number of solo wins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Points:&lt;/strong&gt; The number of points from each win added together. Each game is worth a number of points equal to the number of players, and these points are divided among the winning players and their powers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ratio:&lt;/strong&gt; Points/Games, a measure of how good a power is (does not take into account player strength)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Player Avg:&lt;/strong&gt; Players were rated like powers, so this represents the average of the players who played this power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Ratio:&lt;/strong&gt; Points/(Games X Player Average), a measure of how good a power is adjusted for the average strength of players using the power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avg/Win:&lt;/strong&gt; The average number of Points per Win, a measure of how often the power wins solo or shared victories when it wins, relative to other powers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UwtTl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cosmic Encounter Powers Rankings Page 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t0DJ2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cosmic Encounter Powers Rankings Page 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T15:29:29.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6140" CreationDate="2012-01-16T15:50:37.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 1984, Ted Schmeckpeper combined data from 3 different playing groups into one set and discussed the results in a private report, which so far as I know was never made public. Here is page 1 of the report, followed by 2 tables which answer the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first table includes only powers which played in at least 33 games (Ted's significance cutoff). The second table includes powers which played less than 33 games, the significance of which Ted questioned. Note that the largest of the 3 playing groups was mine, and that my group played more games subsequent to this report - which means there is overlap between this data set and the data set provided in my other answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ECYdb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cosmic Encounter Statistics by Ted Schmeckpeper page 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/346Vh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cosmic Encounter Statistics by Ted Schmeckpeper table 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9iU7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cosmic Encounter Statistics by Ted Schmeckpeper table 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T15:50:37.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T16:52:19.890" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4512/how-can-i-tell-when-to-take-a-mulligan-in-magic&quot;&gt;How can I tell when to take a mulligan in Magic?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a game has started, the first crucial decision is if you want to keep your hand or if you want to take a mulligan. This is always really hard for me because I have no idea what I should look for. I usually mulligan if I have 0, 1, 5, 6 or 7 lands or if I have 2 lands and only expensive cards that need 3 or more mana. I also mulligan if I play a deck that has more than 2 colors and I am lacking more than one color, especially if my ramp requires it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are usually my only thoughts in the beginning. How can I improve my decision making process? I could write down my starting hands during many sessions and analyze them afterwards, but I think I will need a huge amount of games to get any usable statistics out of this. This seems not practical for a hobby player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other players looking for? Combos in hand? Specific cards for round 1 and 2, maybe even 3? Any advice is welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T16:52:19.890" Title="How do I decide if I should mulligan in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mulligans|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-01-16T17:26:38.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6145" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T17:59:18.363" Score="7" ViewCount="7499" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the same vein as my &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/4921/1326&quot;&gt;Drafting Strategies question&lt;/a&gt;, what strategies exist for a good sealed deck?  I want to know about general strategies regardless of the card pool being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T12:07:39.140" Title="What are good strategies for sealed deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|sealed-deck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6145" CreationDate="2012-01-16T18:33:10.600" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exactly the same as for draft, in terms of the BREAD rule.  Obviously that you don't have to worry about what to pick and pass: all that has been done for you, by the vagaries of random chance!  All that's left is to locate the most synergetic deck you can from whatever you've opened out of your boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've seen the pros do, that I think is a great idea, is start off by checking your rares and mythics.  Oftentimes any truly busted bombs will be found here, and give you a good idea of what colours you want to find a way to include, if humanly possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, the very intuitive thing holds true: separate your cards by colour and look for piles that contain lots of good creatures and efficient removal.  If you have two such piles, you're off to an excellent start!  Be careful though of possible mana curve issues: if you have two piles that are both stacked with great expensive cards, you may be better off going for a weaker colour that better complements your curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get greedy and try to play a 4-colour deck, just because you have bombs in 4 colours: sometimes you just have to show some discipline.  Anything beyond two colours with a small splash of a third colour should set off some serious warning bells.  Having said that, don't panic that your deck doesn't seem as &quot;bomby&quot; as the decks you're used to drafting.  Sealed is typically a much slower format, with a bit more room to develop your position, and a bit more tolerance for the odd clunky card.  Though of course if you have the good fortune to be able to assemble a blazingly fast draft-quality deck out of your pool, you probably ought to go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T18:33:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6145" CreationDate="2012-01-16T20:00:13.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, &lt;strong&gt;you can apply the same skills you use in Draft and come out with a good Sealed deck&lt;/strong&gt;. The main thing is not to be disappointed when your deck feels a bit crappy compared to a good Draft deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Sealed, you'll actually have a bigger set of cards you can put into your deck (60 cards vs. 45), but those cards won't be ones you've hand-picked out of a larger pool for synergy. Consequently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You'll have less &quot;depth&quot; in any one color than you would in a draft pool, meaning that, on average, decks will play weaker and less synergistic cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slower play means playing more lands and drawing more of your deck, so &lt;strong&gt;Bombs are more decisive&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More packs per player means more rares and mythic per player, so &lt;strong&gt;Bombs are more plentiful&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The volume of Bombs needing answers means &lt;strong&gt;Removal is more important as well&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That said, this isn't because the rest of &quot;BREAD&quot; is diminished, just that your card pool is weaker &amp;mdash; &lt;strong&gt;speed and synergy are even more valuable, just harder to attain&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equal access to several colors open up a strategy that's rather rare in Draft: &quot;transformative&quot; sideboarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limited sideboarding differs from Constructed sideboarding in a number of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Limited, your &quot;sideboard&quot; consists of all the cards from your pool that you didn't put in your deck, plus an unlimited supply of basic lands, should you need them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to &quot;restore&quot; your deck to any particular starting configuration for game 1 of each match. So there's no need to remember your starting configuration or undo a sideboard choice if you realized that it just runs better than your original 40-card list.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this allows you, if the card pool and deckbuilding time permit it, to make &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; decks from your card pool and switch between them between games. This is much easier to do in Sealed than in Draft because your pool isn't going to be as focused between certain colors. Don't waste time on this if your pool clearly leans in one direction, but if you've got the cards for two divergent so-so decks, you can squeak out some extra wins by playing one and then transitioning to the other when you run into an unfavorable matchup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T12:07:39.140" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T12:07:39.140" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6165" CreationDate="2012-01-16T21:01:01.243" Score="14" ViewCount="4923" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Callous Guards&quot; card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put this card in front of you.  Action cards that alter the line may not be played.  (This includes adding or discarding nobles.)  You may discard this card at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has the &quot;Callous Guards&quot; card in front of him/her, can another player play the &quot;After You...&quot; card which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put the noble at the front of the line into another player's score pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of us could not agree whether the play was allowed or not.  I'm on the &quot;it's legal&quot; side because putting the noble at the front of the line into another player's score pile is not &quot;discarding&quot; the noble.  I understand &quot;discarding&quot; as removing the noble into the discard pile (i.e. no one gets points for a &quot;discarded&quot; noble).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others argued that putting the noble into another player's score pile was &quot;altering&quot; the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1928" LastEditorUserId="13753" LastEditDate="2020-05-31T09:44:50.460" LastActivityDate="2020-05-31T09:44:50.460" Title="Can you play 'After You' when Callous Guards is in play?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-16T21:04:50.123" Score="11" ViewCount="4302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously bluffing is an important element of poker, and bluffing too often, or not often enough will negatively affect your winnings, but is there a rule of thumb for how often you should bluff? For example, if I bluff once or twice an hour, is that too infrequent? If I bluff about once in a button cycle, is that too often? What's the optimum bluff frequency?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I found these links:&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluff_(poker)#Optimal_bluffing_frequency&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluff_(poker)#Optimal_bluffing_frequency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_odds#Bluffing_frequency&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pot_odds#Bluffing_frequency&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to David Sklansky, game theory shows that a player should&#xA;  bluff a percentage of the time equal to his opponent's pot odds to&#xA;  call the bluff. For example, in the final betting round, if the pot is&#xA;  $30 and a player is contemplating a $30 bet (which will give his&#xA;  opponent 2-to-1 pot odds for the call), the player should bluff half&#xA;  as often as he would bet for value (one out of three times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;David Sklansky, in his book The Theory of Poker, states&#xA;  &quot;Mathematically, the optimal bluffing strategy is to bluff in such a&#xA;  way that the chances against your bluffing are identical to the pot&#xA;  odds your opponent is getting.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I generally bet half the pot, I should be bluffing 40% of the time; if I generally bet twice the pot, I should be bluffing 25% of the time. Sounds like a lot to me - how does this sit with everybody's experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="59" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T23:59:12.507" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T12:05:46.710" Title="How often should I bluff in poker?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2012-01-16T21:22:27.553" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Big Money' as a sure fire way to win is the major flaw that has resulted in my gaming group giving up on Dominion.  The problem being that &lt;strong&gt;luck&lt;/strong&gt; in the early game combined with the knowledge that money -&gt; victory points is the way to win is almost a unbeatable strategy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to your question is to either experiment with expansions and/or house rules to change the way you play or find a different game.  I have found the the best way to engage my board gaming group is more social orientated games where luck and optimized strategy take a back seat to deception and diplomacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T21:22:27.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6149" CreationDate="2012-01-16T21:34:29.517" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rough rule (from economics) is that you should bluff until the money you lose from getting caught approximates the money that you would forego from not bluffing. That is, you should equate the &quot;marginal utilities&quot; of the two activities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &quot;never&quot; get caught, you aren't bluffing enough. That is, you are leaving money on the table with a number of bluffs that you could have &quot;run&quot; but didn't. You SHOULD get caught, partly for &quot;advertising&quot; purposes, and partly so that you &quot;start&quot; to lose money bluffing. Then bluff &quot;a little more&quot; and stop when you lose a little more. If you get caught &quot;too often,&quot; you are losing more money than you're making with your last few or &quot;marginal&quot; bluffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T18:36:12.333" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T18:36:12.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6149" CreationDate="2012-01-16T22:22:11.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most important things in bluffing is the image you have on the table. If you generally play tight, your opponents will trust your bets more and your bluffs will be more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you are a loose player you could a lot more hands and your opponents will trust you less, and call your bets more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you are a tight player, you should bluff more, because you will win pots with them more often, and if you're a loose player you should bluff a little less. Anyways, if you are loose and bluff often, they will trust you less and call more (as said above), and you can make profit from this when you actually have a strong hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T22:22:11.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6156" CreationDate="2012-01-16T22:23:39.953" Score="14" ViewCount="4123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a stereotypical description of creatures of a certain mana cost &lt;strong&gt;where each creature's primary utility is in its power/toughness level and not in its effect&lt;/strong&gt;. The mana cost is the number furthest to the left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194074&quot;&gt;1/1&lt;/a&gt;, some minor benefit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222737&quot;&gt;2/2&lt;/a&gt;, some minor benefit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/3 or 3/2, maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=48195&quot;&gt;3/3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/3, maybe 4/3 or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220241&quot;&gt;3/4&lt;/a&gt; with some minor disadvantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205056&quot;&gt;4/4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214379&quot;&gt;5/4&lt;/a&gt; or 4/5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213807&quot;&gt;5/7&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194908&quot;&gt;8/8 with an amazing ability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247392&quot;&gt;10/9 with a ridiculously awesome ability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone else see how the 1-3 and the 7-9 cost creatures tend to be amazing in terms of their mana cost? The (power+toughness) to CMC is definitely greater almost all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it intentional that the middle-cost creatures are much less efficient, and this is why there tend to be weenie decks based on weak creatures and control decks based on strong creatures, but very few decks based on middle-cost creatures? What is the overall purpose of the 4-6 cost creatures being comparatively much weaker? How should my decks and strategy take advantage of this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: There are links for each of those CMC's for what I thought was a stereotypical creature. All creatures chosen are colorless and either common or uncommon. I understand my list may be biased, and feel free to prove that this efficiency curve doesn't exist, because that is pretty central to the above questions. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T17:25:31.150" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T15:10:57.747" Title="Why does the efficiency of creatures in MTG favor low and high cost creatures, leaving those in the middle much weaker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6148" CreationDate="2012-01-16T22:30:17.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are in the wrong. The &quot;adding or discarding nobles&quot; is &lt;em&gt;included&lt;/em&gt; in the definition of altering the line, but this is not presented as a definition. &quot;After you...&quot; is an action card, and it has an effect on the line, changing it. Thus it qualifies as an &quot;action card that alters the line,&quot; and cannot be played due to &quot;Callous Guards&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Callous Guards&quot; allows cards that change a player's actions, for example &quot;Collect an additional noble from the front of the line&quot; is fine as the effect is on your turn (and the number of collections), not the line. But &quot;put the noble at the front of the line&quot;  sounds just like moving a noble, i.e. altering the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My last argument is: if you were to re-write &quot;After you...&quot; so it would be clearly allowed by &quot;Callous Guards&quot;, it would be very easy: &quot;Choose another player. That player immediately collects the first noble in line. Then continue with your turn.&quot; However, to rewrite it to clearly be disallowed you might end up with something like &quot;Move the noble at the front of the line to another player's score pile.&quot; (If you think &quot;move&quot; more clearly &quot;alters the line&quot; than &quot;put&quot; does.) But this is basically how it's written, just more awkward sounding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-16T22:30:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6154" CreationDate="2012-01-17T01:10:33.093" Score="29" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Eldrazi and colorless artifact creatures serve different roles&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I address this first because I think it's the source of some selection bias.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many sets include fairly weak (colorless) artifact creatures for Limited purposes, as &lt;strong&gt;last resorts&lt;/strong&gt;. The idea is that these are less valuable than similarly-costed beaters in your colors, but serve as a fall-back for a player who doesn't have any better options. For instance, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Angel&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt; is a 4/4 uncommon for 5 in the same set as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stone%20Golem&quot;&gt;Stone Golem&lt;/a&gt; — but she's got flying and vigilance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rise of the Eldrazi, in contrast, used big colorless beaters as a &lt;strong&gt;reward&lt;/strong&gt; for playing the defensive/rampy &amp;quot;battlecruiser&amp;quot; decks the set was supposed to support. In order to allow you to do that more often than once every couple dozen drafts (when you manage to get one of the Eldrazi mythics), there were big Eldrazi at common and uncommon rarities as well. These weren't auto-win creatures but the designers tried to make them at least a little bit appealing. Note how the set's removal is rigged in the giant Eldrazi creature's favor to make playing them worthwhile: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vendetta&quot;&gt;Vendetta&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smother&quot;&gt;Smother&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oust&quot;&gt;Oust&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=All%20Is%20Dust&quot;&gt;All Is Dust&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Consume%20the%20Meek&quot;&gt;Consume the Meek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Artisan%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Artisan of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt; to uncommon cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Carnage%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Carnage Wurm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Angel&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skaab%20Goliath&quot;&gt;Skaab Goliath&lt;/a&gt;. It's certainly better, but it also costs more. And how much more specifically is deceptive...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Opportunity cost doesn't scale linearly with mana cost&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume you're playing a 24-land, 60-card deck. You keep a starting hand with 2 lands. You can count on being able to pay for a 1-drop on turn 1, and a 2-drop on turn 2. You have a decent chance of playing a 3-drop on turn 3: around 65% if you're on the play and around 80% if you're on the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how likely are you to be able to play a 6-drop on turn 6? Well, if you started with 2 lands in hand, that's 4 you need to draw by turn 6. I forget the exact math but you're looking at something like 30% to make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, in a deck with 40% lands, once you've exhausted your initial lands in hand, you'll only get a new land to play every two-and-a-half draws. That's why decks that want to play 4-drops and 6-drops in a timely manner run ramp cards, lots of lands, and draw-fixing card (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretend you and an opponent both have 5 lands by turn 7. She plays Serra Angel. You have Artisan of Kozilek in hand. You &amp;quot;only&amp;quot; need 4 more mana to cast it. In an Eldrazi-focused deck with 60% mana sources, that's still an average of &lt;em&gt;six&lt;/em&gt; draws, not four. So it had better be good enough to be worth several turns of waiting for topdecks while Serra Angel bashes your face from the air and holds your weenies at bay with her vigilance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Limited needs &amp;quot;below-curve&amp;quot; mid-sized commons&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, though, there are quite a few below-curve mid-range commons like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Siege%20Mastodon&quot;&gt;Siege Mastodon&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Amphin%20Cutthroat&quot;&gt;Amphin Cutthroat&lt;/a&gt;. The reasons these exist all revolve around Limited:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have to establish a baseline that makes uncommons worthwhile (once more, consider Serra Angel).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's easier to make a playable &amp;quot;below curve&amp;quot; 5-drop (for instance, a 4/3 vanilla Zombie Giant) than it is to make a playable &amp;quot;below curve&amp;quot; 1-drop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a removal-light environment, even a slight power/toughness advantage can turn a creature into a powerful blocker or an offensive two-for-one. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bonebreaker%20Giant&quot;&gt;Bonebreaker Giant&lt;/a&gt; might suck in terms of value-for-mana, but he can still trade with two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elite%20Vanguard&quot;&gt;Elite Vanguard&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above would apply to really really big common creatures, too. Most sets just don't have any at common, though (M12, for example: 5/6 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vastwood%20Gorger&quot;&gt;Vastwood Gorger&lt;/a&gt; in common; de-facto 9/9 Carnarge Wurm at uncommon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are set design decision at low rarities so focused on designing for Limited? In addition to being a popular format, Limited also most closely matches the experience of new or &amp;quot;very casual&amp;quot; players — folks playing Magic with only intro decks or a couple boosters' worth of cards (i.e. a limited card pool, in its own way). Cards for competitive Constructed and &amp;quot;dedicated casual&amp;quot; players generally occupy higher rarities (though you'll see competitive staples and budget options at common and uncommon as well), since the company assumes they'll buy lots of boosters, trade for cards they want, and purchase sought-after singles on the secondary market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T15:10:57.747" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T15:10:57.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-17T06:14:27.030" Score="1" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=113525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt; reads &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures target player controls become 0/2 and lose all abilities until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me find a list of abilities that they lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2303" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:38:01.853" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:38:01.853" Title="Creature Ability List" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6158" CreationDate="2012-01-17T06:40:18.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the comp rules glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Text on an object that explains what that object does or can do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;An activated or triggered ability on the stack. This kind of ability is an object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every item of rules text in the text box (the box in the lower half of the card) is an ability. Doesn't matter whether it's keywords or full statements; static, triggered, or activated. In addition, lands with a basic land type have an implied ability: &quot;T: Add 1 [color] mana to your mana pool.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In handwavy terms, &quot;lose all abilities&quot; means &quot;pretend there's nothing printed in the card's textbox&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More precisely, you apply effects that add or take away abilities in &quot;timestamp&quot; order. So, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244825&quot;&gt;Stampeding Rhino&lt;/a&gt;. It has one ability: trample.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I enchant my Rhino with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220190&quot;&gt;Trollhide&lt;/a&gt;. This gives my Rhino a second ability: &quot;1G: Regenerate this creature&quot; (the ability is printed on the Trollhide card, but it as an ability that the card gave &lt;strong&gt;to the Rhino&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220265&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; on my Rhino, which includes the text &quot;loses all abilities&quot;. My Rhino now has no abilities, until end of turn. Both the Rhino's built-in trample and its enchantment-granted regeneration are removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After my Rhino is turned into a Frog, I activate &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220264&quot;&gt;Alabaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; to give it lifelink until end of turn. Now my Frog has one ability: lifelink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Power/toughness-modifying effects are actually a bit trickier, since they are applied in layers. So the Frog is 3/3, not 1/1. That's a different question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T06:49:25.563" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T06:49:25.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2012-01-17T09:31:55.027" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend and I play Cities and Knights 2 player all the time. I feel like that game makes a very balanced 2 person game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The randomness of getting Progress cards and the fact that you're not dealing with the same objectives in regular Catan make the game quite fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no alterations to the rules other than the barbarians don't attack on the first time the ship reaches Catan, and the robber is also delayed till then as well. everything else we play by normal rules of C&amp;amp;K and we haven't reached a snag yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T09:31:55.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6158" CreationDate="2012-01-17T13:28:35.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alex's answer is quite complete, however his quoted point 2 leaves the impression that an ability on the stack would be affected.  This is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=113525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer rulings&lt;/a&gt; on this card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sudden Spoiling doesn't counter abilities that have already triggered or been activated. In particular, you can't cast this fast enough to stop a creature's &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep&quot; or &quot;When this creature enters the battlefield&quot; abilities from triggering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However he's quite correct in pointing out the way that new effects would interact with cards you had already suddenly spoiled :)  It should be clear as well that any creature cast after your Sudden Spoiling would not be affected by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T13:28:35.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-17T13:31:04.783" Score="-4" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;In earlier Magic, big creatures always had a big mantainance cost (ex. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Nature&quot;&gt;Force of Nature&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yawgmoth%20Demon&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth Demon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Minion%20of%20Leshrac&quot;&gt;Minion of Leshrac&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some years ago, this ceased to be. When did that happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, was there some official statement about that (bonus if it's by Rosewater), or it &amp;quot;just happened&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt; (I really thought this was crystal clear...): I didn't mean there aren't new creatures with upkeep, I meant there are some without it. Before that, AFAIK all of them had it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T12:26:20.560" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T12:26:20.560" Title="When did big creatures in Magic stopped having a mantainance cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6162" CreationDate="2012-01-17T13:35:52.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that your premise is flawed.  From the upcoming Dark Ascension set&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ATgF2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Archdemon of Greed&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a big creature with a big upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T13:35:52.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6184" CreationDate="2012-01-17T14:00:11.780" Score="11" ViewCount="15875" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played the classic version of Stratego from the 1970s but it looks like there are at least 3 fundamentally different versions as of 2012. What are the differences between the various versions and how do they impact the overall feel of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some versions have identical rules but only differ cosmetically, please indicate that. If versions have been produced with minor rule changes over the decades, that would be useful to know as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T23:07:40.353" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T19:55:22.433" Title="What are the differences between the various versions of Stratego?" Tags="|stratego|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6148" CreationDate="2012-01-17T14:51:54.787" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/217462/offical-guillotine-faq&quot;&gt;this &quot;Official Guillotine FAQ&quot; thread&lt;/a&gt; is that &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can play After You... with Callous Guards in play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After you does not change the order of the line, nor does it &quot;add&quot; or&#xA;  &quot;discard&quot;.  Ergo, you're fine to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a consensus that no one has stepped forward to challenge for a couple of years, at the very least!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T14:51:54.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6158" CreationDate="2012-01-17T15:17:12.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not exactly what you're asking for - as keyworded abilities are only a &lt;em&gt;subset of all abilities&lt;/em&gt;, but this page has an up-to-date list of keyword abilities in Magic the Gathering, which you may find fun to peruse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic%3a_The_Gathering_keywords&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_keywords&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said the above, I don't think you'll ever find a more complete list of abilities that are removed by Sudden Spoiling; as such a list would have to include all the non-flavour-text text written on thousands upon thousands of Magic cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-17T15:17:12.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6171" CreationDate="2012-01-17T21:17:07.410" Score="5" ViewCount="3034" Body="&lt;p&gt;If two players call &quot;Muggins&quot; at the same time (in a three-player Cribbage game), and both players call the correct number of points, which player is awarded the points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have looked at several sources but found nothing (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/&quot;&gt;ACC&lt;/a&gt;, Pagat.com, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thehouseofcards.com/rules/cribbage-rules.html&quot;&gt;The House of Cards&lt;/a&gt; and more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, my friends and I have made a list of 3 possible solutions and we are &quot;evaluating&quot; them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players are awarded the points;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player is awarded only half the points (rounding to the upper value);&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player to the left (from the underpegging player) is awarded the points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2334" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-17T21:27:12.630" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T09:52:05.027" Title="Who gets the points when calling Muggins in a three-player Cribbage game?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6173" CreationDate="2012-01-17T23:36:07.770" Score="5" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Torch&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Investigators may Ignore Darkness in your room.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eyes in the Dark: Requirement&lt;/strong&gt; Basement or &lt;em&gt;any room in darkness.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We took the ruling that the mythos card could not target the investigator as he was ignoring the darkness token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We felt that there was an argument that while the investigator was ignoring darkness, he was still in fact in a room that was dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T06:44:11.677" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T06:44:11.677" Title="Can 'Eyes in the Dark' be played on an Investigator with a Torch?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2012-01-17T23:40:28.607" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any reference for this either, and I never play with Muggins, but I think the answer is fairly clearly your option 1. I'll go through the thought process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cribbage is basically a race, Muggins is a penalty for sloppy play and missing your point count. In a two player game, the penalty takes the form of your opponent getting the points instead of you. In a three player game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In scenario #1&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who missed the points is still &amp;quot;behind&amp;quot; by the same amount whether one or both of his opponents get the points. So it doesn't matter much if both players get the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In scenario #2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who missed the points is penalized more if only one opponent notices compared to if both opponents notice. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;In scenario #3&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If only one opponent is awarded the points and gains the advantage, even though the other opponent also noticed, the other opponent is penalized as much as the player who missed the points. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there are good answers to my &amp;quot;why?&amp;quot; for #2 and #3, I think the only fair way to call Muggins is to award both players the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T07:07:17.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6172" CreationDate="2012-01-17T23:45:12.343" Score="3" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Take Sample&lt;/strong&gt; keeper action does not seem to have a restriction around having more than one sample, other than it would require multiple turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Action: One per turn, choose a monster in an investigator's space. &#xA;   Place 1 sample token on the monster and then move it 1 space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following on from the above, if the monster does have more than one sample token on it at the start of your turn can you turn them all in at the same time for 5 threat each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Monster is in an altar's space at the start of your turn, place the token on the altar and again 5 threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seemed clear but a little strong for the keeper in our initial game of Mansions when playing the Fall of House Lynch 1B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T08:06:00.313" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T17:05:20.650" Title="Can a Monster carry more than one Sample at a time?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:31:03.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whomever calls it scores it. The rules at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/default.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Cribbage Congress&lt;/a&gt; do not address muggins outside of 2 player, but the wording requires that it be called before pegging it. Since, in 3 player, there is a dealer, a pone, and another pone, it's simplest to let whomever caught it score it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, in 30 years of playing cribbage, in both 3 and 4 hand, whomever catches it claims the points. This is incentive to pay attention to opponent play and score calls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T06:31:03.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6170" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:33:29.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are playing this correctly on both counts.  A monster can carry more than one sample, see the rules on page 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a monster with sample tokens is killed, all its &#xA;  sample tokens are discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trade in for 5 threat is automatic and should be used for all samples carried by a monster on the altar's space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T06:33:29.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6168" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:39:27.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The investigator cannot be targeted by &lt;strong&gt;Eyes in the Dark.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruling you are looking for is on page 15 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some Exploration cards (such as the “Lantern”) allow &#xA;  investigators to ignore these effects. When ignoring these effects, &#xA;  an investigator also &lt;em&gt;cannot be targeted&lt;/em&gt; by cards that require them &#xA;  to be in a room with a darkness token. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T06:39:27.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2012-01-18T06:57:43.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, and more important than anything else &lt;em&gt;by far&lt;/em&gt;:  if you are a beginner, &lt;strong&gt;don't worry about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3234/what-is-a-positional-game-in-chess/3237#3237&quot;&gt;positional&lt;/a&gt; stuff&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(yet)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;!&lt;/strong&gt;  Learning chess theory &lt;em&gt;(positional chess)&lt;/em&gt; will teach you how to form a correct plan, but that skill is completely useless if you can't execute it skillfully - a poor planner with good tactics will beat a great planner with poor tactics, every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you are below 1800 USCF rating, or you don't know what your rating is, I would suggest &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/967/how-important-is-memorizing-chess-openings-in-casual-play/992#992&quot;&gt;focusing solely on tactics&lt;/a&gt;, and ignoring everything I'm about to say until you've improved more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you're over 1800, you're satisfied with your tactics, but too often you end up with positions like the one shown above, and have &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; clue what to do next.  Now what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you learn about the various &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3225/what-factors-should-be-considered-before-doubling-pawns/3229#3229&quot;&gt;imbalances&lt;/a&gt; in the game, how they work together, and how to take advantage of them.  This also means learning about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_endgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;endgames&lt;/a&gt;, as having the favorable imbalances will usually turn into having a favorable endgame.  These are book-length topics, far too large to explain in one post; fortunately, there are lots of good books out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best books for learning the &lt;em&gt;basics&lt;/em&gt; of both of these things are both written by the same person:  Jeremy Silman.  For chess theory, I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1890085138&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Reassess Your Chess, 4th Edition&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(make sure you get the 4th edition - it is &lt;strong&gt;vastly&lt;/strong&gt; different from the earlier editions)&lt;/em&gt;.  For endgames, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1890085103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silman's Complete Endgame Course&lt;/a&gt;.  Both are very easy to read, and are geared towards players between 1400 and 2100 levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you're comfortable with tactics, and have read the books I recommended above (right? :P), &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; know all about the various imbalances in different positions, let's take a look at your position in-particular.  What are the imbalances in your position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pawn structure&lt;/strong&gt;: The first thing to note is that it's a closed center - this means, unless you can rip open the center, play will likely occur on the flanks &lt;em&gt;(sides)&lt;/em&gt; of the board.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Control of important squares&lt;/strong&gt;:  White has clear control of &lt;code&gt;d5&lt;/code&gt;, while black has &lt;code&gt;d4&lt;/code&gt; - these are excellent outposts for knights.  However, white also temporarily has &lt;code&gt;b5&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;f5&lt;/code&gt; available for his knights &lt;em&gt;(temporary, because they could easily be pushed away by pawns)&lt;/em&gt;, while black does not even have the option of knight-to-&lt;code&gt;b4&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;f4&lt;/code&gt;, as they are guarded.  Both &lt;code&gt;b4&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;d4&lt;/code&gt; knights would threaten &lt;code&gt;Nc7+&lt;/code&gt; (forking king and rook).&#xA;The move &lt;code&gt;g3&lt;/code&gt; has white committed to the push &lt;code&gt;f4&lt;/code&gt;, but has left white with a &lt;em&gt;glaring&lt;/em&gt; weakness at &lt;code&gt;h3&lt;/code&gt; - he should work quickly, or black will take advantage of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Development&lt;/strong&gt;: Black is actually &lt;em&gt;hindered&lt;/em&gt; in development, because he made the (poor) choice to bring his queen out in front of the rest of his troops.  This will likely come back to bite him, as white can push the queen around with his pieces, forcing black to waste time moving his queen, while white happily develops his own pieces in the process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bishops&lt;/strong&gt;: White's light bishop is his poor bishop (ie. most of his pawns are on light squares), while black's dark-bishop is his poor one - so white would like to trade light-bishops, while black would like to trade dark-bishops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;King safety&lt;/strong&gt;:  Black hasn't castled yet, but still has the choice of either king- or queen-side castling.  White already castled, but moved his &lt;code&gt;g&lt;/code&gt;-pawn, leaving a weakness on &lt;code&gt;h3&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuGmJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;r3k1nr/p3bppp/1pnpbq2/2p1p3/2P1P3/P1NP1NP1/1P2BP1P/R1BQ1RK1 w&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does all this mean in the end?  Here is my interpretation of the above (note that &lt;strong&gt;I could be completely wrong&lt;/strong&gt; - I am a strong player, but no grandmaster):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either player could still (hypothetically) have good play on either flank.  White could play the queenside by playing for a &lt;code&gt;b4&lt;/code&gt; push, or the kingside by &lt;code&gt;Ne1&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;f4&lt;/code&gt;.  As white, I would prefer the queen-side play, simply because opening the kingside with black's queen and both bishops right there is ominous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black could play the queenside by &lt;code&gt;a6&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;b5&lt;/code&gt;, or the kingside by playing for &lt;code&gt;h5&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;h4&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;hxg3&lt;/code&gt;, bringing the rook into the attack as well.  As black, I would prefer the kingside right now, knowing that white will probably try to play the queen-side (or lose the fight if he tries to go kingside, due to black's better development, and white's king being there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, due to black's poorly-placed queen, white has an immediate threat:  &lt;code&gt;1. Nd5!&lt;/code&gt;, forking the queen and &lt;code&gt;c7&lt;/code&gt;.  Then after &lt;code&gt;1.. Bxd5 2. cxd5 Nb8&lt;/code&gt; &lt;em&gt;(to answer white's next move)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;3. Qa4+ Nd7 4. b4&lt;/code&gt; White is quite obviously winning:  he has the double bishops, the initiative, better development, and his attack on the queenside if moving along while black's kingside attack hasn't even started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's black's move, but he doesn't have a good response to this threat; his best move appears (to me) to be &lt;code&gt;1.. O-O-O&lt;/code&gt;, but then after &lt;code&gt;2. Nd5! Qg6? 3. Nh4! Bxh4 4. Bh5&lt;/code&gt; the queen is lost; thus after &lt;code&gt;1.. O-O-O 2. Nd5&lt;/code&gt;, black's only response is &lt;code&gt;2.. Bxd5&lt;/code&gt;, leading to a position similar to above, favorable for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So white has a way to force a highly favorable position, but the game is still not won.  As black, don't give up - you still have your kingside attack!  Make sure to deal with white's queenside-threats, but don't allow yourself to be lulled into playing defensively!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this analysis would be very different if black's queen were still on d8 - in that case, I would probably say black has a slight-edge, since he can still choose to castle on the kingside, his strong side, and attacks in otherwise-even positions tend be slightly stronger when they are on the side the enemy king has castled.  So the real answer is, stick to your first-principles; &lt;strong&gt;don't move the queen out too early!&lt;/strong&gt; :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T16:46:40.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6176" CreationDate="2012-01-18T08:15:29.393" Score="14" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every now and then, what seems like a golden opportunity comes up: you start the game with five coppers, and the Mint is in play.  By purchasing this, you can instantly trash five of your starting copper.  However, this leaves you with only two copper in your deck: not enough to purchase a silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say your second buy is the third copper you need for the silver.  Now there are seven cards in your deck: three copper, three estates, and a mint.  This means there is about a (correct me if my math is off) 30% chance that you'll only draw two coppers on your third draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some 2 cost cards are in play, this is less of a problem.  Having a Moat or Cellar, for instance, could draw out coppers, and Secret Chamber or Lighthouse could provide the necessary money to obtain the first silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has already been discussed a bit on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=244.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy&lt;/a&gt;, but there doesn't seem to be much of a consensus.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When, if ever, is buying a Mint for your first or second buy an optimal move?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2242" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:19:05.057" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T16:01:21.720" Title="When is it optimal to purchase a Mint on a 5/2 split?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6175" CreationDate="2012-01-18T13:37:32.053" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost never. A first turn Mint wrecks your economy, and being able to buy good cards on turns 3 and 4 is really important in order to not fall behind your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mint/Fool's Gold is an elite opening because it allows you to get a massive density of Fool's Gold in your deck quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mint/Lighthouse is acceptable, especially if there are lots of attacks, but you need a plan to transition your deck into higher value cards quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every other opening is sub-optimal, according to the Councilroom &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/openings?card=Mint&quot;&gt;statistics&lt;/a&gt; (which are derived from Isotropic games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T13:37:32.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5091" CreationDate="2012-01-18T14:30:46.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have started setting a timer and every time it goes off the person/people with the fewest carrot cards each get to draw one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T14:30:46.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T14:31:10.813" Score="7" ViewCount="932" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand the rules, you can play a very special card from your hand at any time. However, what I can't tell is whether you then replace that card, or just continue playing,  one card short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you replace it immediately, or do you draw two cards on your next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T17:43:07.617" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T14:26:39.283" Title="In Killer Bunnies do you replace a very special card when played?" Tags="|killer-bunnies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6162" CreationDate="2012-01-18T15:11:53.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't true that big creatures always had maintenance costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the top of my head, Craw Wurm is a big creature from Alpha with no upkeep cost or even a real disadvantage (if you exclude the high casting cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=pow%3E3%20tou%3E3%20e%3aal/en&amp;amp;v=list&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;all the Alpha creatures with stats bigger that 3/3&lt;/a&gt;, only Demonic Hordes, Force of Nature and Lord of the Pit (three of them) have such maintenance costs!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, it is true that big demons in magic are known to have certain characteristics: big black creatures with upkeep costs. In fact I think Mark Rosewater mentioned in an article that they acknowledge that fact when designing demons (I can't find the article, mostly because WotC is doing server maintenance right now. If you're interested I can google for it later and edit the answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:11:53.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2012-01-18T15:24:51.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Online I found some unofficial rules for 2 player which were easy to use and remember. You set up the game as normal and the play is modified like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player rolls twice per turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the robber is rolled, the player with the lowest number of victory points places the robber. If victory points are tied then whom ever rolled the 7 places the robber. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No trading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play to 10 victory points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The double roll equalizes the lack of resources by only having 2 people. Robber will always strive to slow the person in the lead. Trading doesn't make sense with two people so you just get rid of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other modification we tend to do is to deal the number chits face down during setup. Then after initial placements are made turn them over to finish the start board. It throws an element of randomness into the game and eliminates playing the number odds. Instead you end up playing the resources and hope for good numbers. This does backfire from time to time but makes for interesting games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T15:24:51.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6182" CreationDate="2012-01-18T16:19:31.900" Score="9" ViewCount="1621" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=151979&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;All permanents are enchantments in addition to their other types.&quot;&gt;Enchanted Evening&lt;/a&gt; and turn everything into an enchantment, and then play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221898&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;During your turn, your opponents can't cast spells or activate abilities of artifacts, creatures, or enchantments.&quot;&gt;Grand Abolisher&lt;/a&gt; to disallow them activating abilities during my turn, can my opponents tap their lands during my turn (say, to make a payment for something)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:37:51.840" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:37:51.840" Title="Can players tap lands for mana with Enchanted Evening and Grand Abolisher in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6181" CreationDate="2012-01-18T16:30:40.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No they cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulings on Enchanted Evening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This has no effect on those permanents other than letting them interact with things that care about enchantments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which Grand Abolisher clearly interacts with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During your turn, your opponents can't cast spells or activate abilities of artifacts, creatures, or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;enchantments&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's clear that lands have an innate implied ability, even if not printed of &quot;Tap: Add 1 mana of the appropriate colour to your mana pool.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all we need to know is that this ability is treated like any other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CR 605.3. Activating an activated mana ability follows the rules for activating any other activated ability (see rule 602.2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exceptions listed don't apply to this case because Grand Abolisher is not countering the mana ability, it is preventing it from happening.  Just because it's a mana ability doesn't make it special in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-01-18T16:43:24.543" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T16:43:24.543" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6175" CreationDate="2012-01-18T18:18:51.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with philosophyguy's answer.  Additionally, in rare situations where there are no other trash/upgrade cards, I'd consider opening Mint/Embargo and then embargoing Mint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="2242" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T03:35:13.453" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T03:35:13.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2012-01-18T18:22:26.023" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak definitively for all versions, but I can give you some information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Classic&quot; Stratego is played with 40 pieces per side on a 10x10 board. There was a misprint in an early version that claimed Scouts could not move more than one space and attack in the same turn, so this is sometimes incorrectly cited as a difference between editions. There are also some differences in numbering among different versions; sometimes the highest rank is 1, in other cases it is 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of early 2012, Spin Master Games has 3 different versions available. The 50th Anniversary Collectors' Edition has the original rules, theme (Napoleonic) and piece distribution, with some variant pieces available optionally. They also released a 50th Anniversary version that's a Toys R Us exclusive, which has the classic rules and theme, but no variant pieces. The third version is simply titled Stratego, and has a Sci-Fi theme, 30 pieces per side on a 10x8 board, and one of the pieces has a special ability to destroy an adjacent piece of any rank if it can correctly guess its rank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some retailers have some special edition exclusives, like Barnes &amp;amp; Noble's Onyx Edition and Target's wooden box and bookcase editions. These are generally the classic version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several other sets have had pieces with special abilities over the years, including (but not limited to) Stratego revised (sometimes called Fire &amp;amp; Ice), Civil War Stratego, Stratego Legends (which also supports up to 8 players) and Lord of the Rings Stratego. Most of these give most of the pieces powers, not just one as with the current version. (There's also Ultimate Stratego, which adds 4 player options, but I do not believe this version adds special powers to any pieces.) My understanding is that most of the rethemed versions have changed gameplay at least somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the variant rulesets, I have only played the LOTR version, and I will say that special powers do change the game significantly. In LOTR, the piece powers are asymmetrical, and I found them to be unbalanced. It also minimized the role bluffing plays and made the game more about getting the pieces with useful powers into the right positions - which could be a good or a bad thing. (I personally didn't like this change; it's also my main objection with some of the Stratego-inspired games I've played like Lord of the Rings: The Confrontation.) The piece distribution and board size was the same as classic in that version, so I can't say how the change in numbers impacts gameplay, though the consensus on BoardGameGeek seems to be that the smaller board doesn't change the feel of the game. The two rows that are lost are horizontal relative to the players, which means it shouldn't impact the way the armies interact. (If this is true, any of the special power sets should be acceptable, since you can always apply the classic ruleset to them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T18:22:26.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T20:39:02.337" Score="14" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;On this site recomendation questions are banned.  You are not allowed to ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I often play risk and Axis &amp;amp; Allies.  I don't like Settlers of Catan because bla bla bla ... &lt;strong&gt;What other games would I like?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See meta pages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/663/game-recommendation-questions-are-banned&quot;&gt;Game Recommendation questions are banned&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/656/should-we-ban-game-recommendation-questions-done&quot;&gt;Should we ban game recommendation questions? - Done&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was just wondering where/how members of this community discover new games.  I have played a number of games including: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple Risk type games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axis and Allies &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I want to find more games like this.  Where/how should I look?  What is a good way to discover new games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="303" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:45:47.567" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T02:39:04.483" Title="What is a good resource to discover new games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-08-25T19:03:35.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-18T21:37:49.500" Score="21" ViewCount="85715" Body="&lt;p&gt;Situation: You've built your at least 2 color deck, know exactly what number of lands you want in it, but don't know how many to put in of each basic-land type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do pro-players figure this out? Obviously it seems like a deck that is about 50-50 color-wise would have equal numbers of each basic-land for those colors, but what if the deck is 60-40, 70-30, 80-20, etcetera? Or perhaps its a tri-color deck with a 40-30-30 or a 50-40-10 color distribution? Obviously it will depend on the mana-curve and the cards in the deck, but I'm just looking for some general guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not getting any land in your side-color is bad, but not getting any in your main color is even worse. How do you manage these problems to get the best chance of success?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4957/how-many-lands-should-i-have-in-my-sealed-or-draft-decks&quot;&gt;This question addresses how many lands to put in a 40-card deck&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4586/learning-to-build-multi-color-decks-in-magic&quot;&gt;This one addresses the general issues of building a multi-color deck&lt;/a&gt; but I'm specifically interested in color distribution of lands. It would be awesome if answers could address both 40 and 60 card decks. I'm talking only about &lt;strong&gt;basic lands&lt;/strong&gt;, as I believe addressing the entire issue of &quot;What lands should I put in my deck?&quot; is far too big for one question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2021-11-12T01:55:33.643" Title="How should I determine how many lands of each different color to put in my deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6036" CreationDate="2012-01-18T22:35:10.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The above answers are correct, but they overlook a simple detail: Curse of Stalked Prey only triggers when a creature deals combat damage to a player, not a creature, so you wouldn't get the counter even if your Reckless Waif would have survived combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2339" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T22:35:10.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6208" CreationDate="2012-01-18T22:45:54.300" Score="5" ViewCount="2436" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;player A&lt;/em&gt; plays a &lt;em&gt;Swap Your Hand&lt;/em&gt; card he or she changes his or her cards with somebody else (&lt;em&gt;player B&lt;/em&gt;). Then &lt;em&gt;player B&lt;/em&gt; draws a card. Should &lt;em&gt;player A&lt;/em&gt; draw a card too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rules say that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play an action card... then draw 1 card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, but in this case &lt;em&gt;player A&lt;/em&gt; gets an extra card. On the other hand the rules of the &lt;em&gt;Swap Your Hand&lt;/em&gt; card say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard the action card, then the other player gets to draw 1 card!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that &lt;em&gt;player A&lt;/em&gt; should not draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T22:26:46.810" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T22:26:46.810" Title="After playing a Swap Your Hand card should the player draw in Saboteur 2?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2012-01-18T22:55:24.927" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an unscientific method for quickly throwing lands into a draft deck, I could up the number of coloured mana symbols in the casting costs of my cards, and use the results as a ratio to choose my lands.  So, if my deck has 20 white mana symbols and 10 blue mana symbols, and I need to select 17 lands, I'd typically be thinking about 11 Plains and 6 Islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though of course it's not quite as simple as that.  You also need to factor in coloured activation costs, of course; and then, consider &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; you need your different colours of mana.  In the example given above, if many of the white cards cost 4W or 5W, and all the blue cards cost U or UU, then evidently I need to draw my islands early and can get away with drawing plains later on.  That sounds like a pretty peculiar deck, but if for some reason it did exist you could easily be considering even 9 Islands and 8 Plains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example: suppose your deck is pretty much mono-white, with a red splash.  Your red mana symbols may be less than 10%  of your total mana symbols: you may even only have one red card!  Even so, it might not serve you well to dogmatically have 1-2 Mountains and 15-16 Plains.  12 Plains should be more than enough to run your white spells off (assuming none of them cost WWW, anyway!) and you can make up the difference with 5 Mountains, to make sure you have a good chance of playing that red spell in any game you draw it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I don't think there's any simple magic formula for answering this question: it's just the sort of thing that becomes more and more intuitive the more Magic you play.  But one last tip: if you're playing a lot of Limited games where your mana is letting you down, consider the possibility that &lt;em&gt;it might not be your choice of lands that's letting you down at all&lt;/em&gt; - maybe you should be trying to assemble decks that are less ambitious about the range of spells they are trying to play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T22:55:24.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2012-01-18T23:14:27.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;By far my best source of recommendations for games that are new to me are my gaming friends. In the past decade, I also find myself using funagain.com for recommendations, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funagain.com/control/alltimebestsellers&quot;&gt;All Time Best Sellers&lt;/a&gt; list to see what has been popular with gamers over time. If I'm looking for a certain type of game, I choose one of the filters from the drop down menu, which are (various combinations of):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board Games (Kids)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board Games (Family)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board Games (Strategy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puzzles (Jigsaw)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puzzles (Logic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toys&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you click on a certain game, in addition to the description and reviews you also see suggestions for similar games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, clicking on all time best seller Carcassonne shows under the picture various classifications you can click on such as theme and genre, but most importantly &quot;other&quot; which shows things like &quot;games for older children.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you choose to buy your game from Funagain Games, you may as well use them as the great resource they are for game recommendations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-18T23:14:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2012-01-19T00:06:26.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no definitive formula. Although you specifically ask about color combination it is just part of the bigger problem that is land distribution in a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @thesunneversets also mentioned, this is the sort of thing that (at least so far) has no simple answer. It is a skill that is refined as you play more and more. Even so, some important questions you have to ask yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How many cards of each color (obviously);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) How many cards that cost more than one colored mana - i.e. if some cards have RR in their cost you have to get two red mana at the same time before you can play those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) How many one/two casting cost cards of each color - i.e. if all your one drops are red cards, you probably want to make sure you have red mana in your first turn;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highlighting #3, I would also say this isn't so much a problem of the number of cards in a deck (or format) but a problem of general game plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=358672&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UR Storm deck&lt;/a&gt; in modern only needs red mana to win, but generally packs more blue mana just because it's game plan is to start the game playing cheap blue draw spells in the first turns. All the library manipulation also assure the deck sees the 1/2 red mana sources it needs in a single game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/gpsd11/welcome#0a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Richard Bland's top 8 decklist in GP San Diego 2011&lt;/a&gt; features only 2 really powerful cards that need red: Kessig Wolf Run and Devil's Play. Using  Traveler's Amulet and Caravan Vigil he could have two extra &quot;virtual&quot; Mountains, without stressing his manabase that much. Plus, both are late game winning cards, so a single Mountain to enable the strategy seems more than enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T00:06:26.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2012-01-19T00:20:20.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staff in game stores (or other customers) are often very helpful. In my experience, small, independent game stores are staffed by people who love games and play lots of them, and they're happy to talk to you about it. Also, many game stores keep store copies so you can try it out before buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T00:20:20.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6196" CreationDate="2012-01-19T06:19:52.787" Score="7" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played our first game of &lt;strong&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/strong&gt; last night with the new &lt;strong&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/strong&gt; expansion.  Pretty much all the new stuff was used, and we were playing along.  All the usual stuff was going wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doom track only had 1 free space left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terror level was 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kingsport rifts were close to opening&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 tokens on the Deep Ones Rising track&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing going right was that we were still in Act 1 of the &lt;strong&gt;King in Yellow&lt;/strong&gt;.  Of course, Bokrug wasn't done toying with us as the right environment card showed up and we had to go to Act 2, unless we were willing to pay the price and remove an Gate Seal.  We opted not to.  We had 3 seals, and two investigators off world with good odds of sealing.  Not to mention the doom track was filling up and we figured there would only be a couple turns left before the final battle anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally for the very next Mythos card, the King in Yellow decided it was time for Act 3 and the end of the world.  We lost without even a fight with Bokrug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What factors weigh into deciding whether to delay the Act 1 and 2 cards from showing up?  In your experience how often do you need to pay the price?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T16:18:20.227" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T16:18:20.227" Title="It was the end of the world...but we didn't know it!" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-miskatonic-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6195" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6199" CreationDate="2012-01-19T06:49:48.687" Score="20" ViewCount="5404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've really been enjoying the incredible Innistrad set, and advance previews of Dark Ascension (on the Wizards official site and elsewhere) have been living up to it so far.  However, I had to do a double take when I read the text of this rare, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lost%20in%20the%20Woods&quot;&gt;Lost in the Woods&lt;/a&gt;, it seemed so bad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lost in the Woods, 3GG [Enchantment]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature attacks you or a planeswalker you control, reveal&#xA;the top card of your library.  If it's a Forest card, remove that&#xA;creature from combat.  Then put the revealed card on the bottom of&#xA;your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like the ability on this card would be bad if it Fogged all creatures on a Forest reveal, not just one creature.  I feel like the card would still be bad if it cost G and you could cast multiples of it in early turns - but as an expensive late game card, it seems &lt;em&gt;totally&lt;/em&gt; unplayable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it's a &amp;quot;flavourful&amp;quot; card that will never see competitive play.  But come on, surely no Magic card can be completely without actual play value?  This is the hardest card to think of a good use for that I've come across in ages, though - can anyone else think of a great combo or other strategy for making Lost In The Woods a halfway decent addition to a deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T17:13:31.267" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T15:46:46.500" Title="Is there any way to rehabilitate the &quot;junk rare&quot; Lost In The Woods?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6194" CreationDate="2012-01-19T07:22:29.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to assume that since you mentioned the Miskatonic Horror expansion and environments you're using the Act cards from that expansion and not the one originally present in King in Yellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those that don't know the differences between the two: Originally in the King in Yellow expansion, the Acts only advanced when 'The Next Act Begins!' was drawn as a mythos card. The Miskatonic Horror expansion adds an alternative Act deck to use. This deck, in addition to advancing when 'The Next Act Begins' is drawn, advances when specific types of Environment Mythos Cards are drawn. Act I Begins when an Environment (Mystic) is drawn, Act II begins when an Environment (Urban) is drawn, and Act III begins when an Environment (Weather) is drawn. Another important difference between the two decks is the price that has to be paid to prevent an Act from beginning. In the original expansion, the price to prevent Act I and Act II from entering play was (respectively) by adding two doom tokens to the doom track and removing two elder sign tokens from the board. The MH version of the Act deck requires adding a single doom token and removing a single elder sign token from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, using the MH version or not makes a difference because the Act Cards are more likely to enter play, but the cost is less when they do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, actually getting around to the question. For us, preventing an Act or not is a factor of how many expansions are in play, how many investigators are playing, who the Ancient One is, how far along the path to victory we are, and most importantly how lucky we're feeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, the large majority of the Act stopping we do is with Act I. Act II is &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; painful to stop. In a game where gate bursts already happen too often for comfort, choosing that voluntarily is just depressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the original Act deck, the number of expansions is important. If we're using a lot of expansions, the odds of hitting a 'Next Act' card are pretty low since there's only ~7 of them, so we'll just let 'em pass. I don't know what the odds of of drawing specific types of weather cards, but I'll assume the chances are more or less the same regardless of how many expansions are in play, so when we're using the MH deck the expansion count doesn't really influence our decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ancient One you're up against is also important. You'll have to weigh a combination of doom track length, in-game effects, and difficulty of the final fight. If it's someone we think we can stomp in a fight, we'll stop Act I. Otherwise, if we're up against someone that wakes up quickly we'll let all of the Acts pass by. If they can eat us without blinking, since there's no chance for us later, we'll probably opt to stop Act II once. With Ancient Ones that have a longer track we'll look at what in-game effects they cause. We definitely won't stop Act II against AOs that make getting seals harder (Hastur, Yog).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we're doing really well clue-token wise, or we have some Elder Signs to burn, or we've sealed some low-frequency locations, we'll feel pretty safe about stopping Act II. The penalty for removing seals is that the game goes on longer, but if you're fairly confident the additional mythos cards won't add doom tokens it may not be a bad choice. We'll have to be doing pretty well though if we're confident enough to get rid of a seal or two. We'll never stop Act II more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;: Is the Ancient One going to eat you? Don't speed up the doom track! Don't remove a seal unless you're feeling pretty good! Do you have a shot at winning if it wakes up? Stop an Act once or twice! Find yourself thinking 'What are the odds'? Definitely stop an Act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:10:59.460" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:10:59.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-01-19T10:31:22.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Uses for this card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) In Commander format for a mono-green deck;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The only way to make this a viable fog would be to force a Forest to the top of the deck; There are some ways to do this (mostly all of them are blue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ponder and Brainstorm effects;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards with scry like Augury Owl, Cryptic Annelid, Crystal Ball, ...;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other cards that manipulate the top of Library like Ancestral Knowledge, Crystal Seer, Descendant of Soramaro, Aven Fateshaper;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Congregation at Dawn/Worldly Tutor to fetch Dryad Arbor;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Some effect that could use the knowledge of the last card in your Library like Cellar Door (as @thesunneversets pointed out);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;4) Some effect that could use the knowledge of the top card in your library like Druidic Satchel, Delver of Secrets, Abundance, ...;&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;5) Don't forget that simply filtering through your Forests isn't that bad either. To play this card you have to spend 5 mana, which probably is already enough to run your deck so it helps you make sure you're not drawing blanks!&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like I misread the card (kudos to @Hackworth) so #4 and #5 don't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1262" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T13:16:25.747" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T13:16:25.747" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-01-19T14:47:29.513" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a terribad card beyond redemption.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As already pointed out, it's too expensive to bring into play to have noticeable effect; also it's too weak and unpredictable an effect to be really useful. It doesn't even have useful side effects like only sending the forests to the bottom, it's just random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is that it's pretty much restricted to mono-green decks because of the GG casting cost and because it works on forests only. Mono-Green, however, is typically all about stomping your opponent, not about gaining board control. This is a board control card, no color is worse in getting board control than green, and this card will do exactly nothing to change that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the best card I can think to combo with this is good old &lt;em&gt;Sensei's Divining Top&lt;/em&gt;, but if you, with a green-heavy or mono-green deck, have to rely on this card to win the damage race, then your deck has quite a bit of a problem anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T14:47:29.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-01-19T15:40:30.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are actually several rare cards that have nearly no play value. Look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=88817&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One with Nothing&lt;/a&gt; for another example of a bad rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several reasons why cards like this are created though.  Mark Rosewater, a designer for MTG has a couple of well-written articles that explains why bad rares are created. Read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;When Cards Go Bad&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rare, but Well Done&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2247" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T15:40:30.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6220" CreationDate="2012-01-19T16:06:00.603" Score="16" ViewCount="7142" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Werewolf, my group and I always have the same problem: whom should we lynch on the first day?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a group of ~10 people, we usually play 2 werewolves plus 2 &quot;seers,&quot; who have one shot per night to guess one werewolf. On the first day, either the seers don't have correct information, or it would just be stupid to share information with the group because the werewolves would kill them the next night. Increasing the number of seers or reducing the number of werewolves always seems to unbalance the game too much to one side or the other!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without any real indicators, we always resort to guesses and &quot;cold reading&quot; people — &lt;em&gt;I think&lt;/em&gt; you're &lt;em&gt;the werewolf because I can see it in your face&lt;/em&gt; — resulting in many &quot;feel-bad&quot; moments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best method to choose whom to lynch on the first day?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What mechanics can we use to prevent or reduce lynching people at random?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T16:50:13.320" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T08:56:12.030" Title="What is the best method to choose whom to lynch on the first day?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:28:16.937" Score="4" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;So Wizards heard my prayers and has given me something to make my favored W/G tokens deck even better. Unfortunately, those somethings are &lt;strong&gt;black&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yywkn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lingering Souls&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecxah.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dark Ascension isn't out yet, so we can't brew with full information, but I'm already working on a decklist for the upgraded WBG tokens. All of the following are strong candidates for inclusion in the deck (though some of them will eventually have to be cut):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Name                        Cost&#xA;=================================================&#xA;Doomed Traveler             W&#xA;Accorder Paladin            1W&#xA;Honor of the Pure           1W&#xA;Intangible Virtue           1W&#xA;Gather the Townsfolk        1W&#xA;Midnight Haunting           2W&#xA;Lingering Souls             2W, 1B flashback&#xA;Fiend Hunter                1WW&#xA;Hero of Bladehold           2WW&#xA;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad    2WB&#xA;Geist-Honored Monk          3WW&#xA;Gavony Township             {T} 2WG ability&#xA;Vault of the Archangel      {T} 2WB ability&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to notice about this list is that it's very nearly mono-white, with three different cards costing WW. The second is that we actually have more B than G (though there's a little more G in the sideboard, as I'll probably continue siding in Autumn's Veil, and either Naturalize or Ray of Revelation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the W/G tokens deck had a very reliable manabase, what with having Razorverge Thicket, Sunpetal Grove, and Avacyn's Pilgrim available. Building WBG is quite a bit trickier: the only W/B land in standard is Isolated Chapel, unless Dark Ascension gives us another rare land cycle, which seems unlikely. How would you go about it? Or are we perhaps better off dropping Gavony (the only maindeck G) and going just WB?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T17:43:37.730" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T17:43:37.730" Title="Building a mana base for WGB Tokens in Standard" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:43:24.320" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Online, I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; is a great resource. It's kind of to board games what IMDb is to movies - tremendous repository with lots of rulebooks, user reviews, and more. It can be a bit hard to know where to start, but they also have a dedicated recommendations forum, and most people are happy to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you live in an area with a hobby game store or a Meetup group, they're also a great resource for information, and more importantly, the ability to try things out before you buy them (as @shujaa points out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T17:43:24.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:44:58.380" Score="6" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since a Traitor might help you, to avoid making it obvious they are a Traitor, is it better to wait to reveal them? The advantage of accusing early, is that if no White Swords are on the board, you don't get a Black Sword if you make a false accusation. You also prevent Special Cards being played by the Traitor (if they decide to reveal themselves) that can hurt everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the strategy of when to Accuse change with the number of players? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T03:39:54.320" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:39:54.320" Title="Is it better to try to reveal a Traitor early, or wait until later in the game?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6202" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:49:21.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both black and green only come into play after the 4th turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could play a Plains-based deck with some Isolated Chapel and Sunpetal Grove. Remember that white is the most important color all the time, so both these lands provide white mana as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also play mana-fixers like Shimmering Grotto and Traveler's Amulet, but for such a small splash, I would say those two lands work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Maybe only 4 black mana sources would be too little for 6-8 black cards. I'd probably play 4 Isolated Chapel, 4 Sunpetal Grove and 2 Woodland Cemitery&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1262" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T18:20:11.367" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T18:20:11.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6243" CreationDate="2012-01-19T17:53:22.963" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Board of Destiny for the Demon player, there is a destiny square that allows you to use any die to buy an extra die next turn. Can you only buy only one extra die with this ability, or can you use multiple dice to buy more than a single die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T05:11:57.690" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T06:48:05.067" Title="Can you only buy one extra die with the The Calm Before The Storm destiny square?" Tags="|claustrophobia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6202" CreationDate="2012-01-19T18:36:17.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is functionally a mono-color deck with some &quot;color splash&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't need any color but white early on, so you can forgo playing Scars-block &quot;fast duals&quot; in favor of the appropriate &quot;buddy duals&quot;, which are Isolated Chapel and Sunpetal Grove. If almost all your other lands are Plains, it's going to be pretty easy to get them to always come into play untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the green is mostly an afterthought, I would play Swamps before I run Woodland Cemetery. This is because you need more black than green, and it's nice to have lands that come into play untapped. Also, a couple of Swamps in your deck ensure that an opponent can't use Ghost Quarter to color-screw you out of casting Sorin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your mana base could easily support green splash&lt;/strong&gt;, but I think Gavony Township might be too much of a &quot;win more&quot; card in this deck, since you've got so many other pumping effects going already. Township doesn't really start doing its thing until the late game, and my suspicion is that getting there in the first place means your opponent is likely using lots of removal to keep your creatures off the field. Initially, I was thinking that I'd prefer to have access to Moorland Haunt (to generate more Spirits) rather than Gavony Township (which is useless if I have no guys to pump up), and sideboarding in blue countermagic against Day of Judgment and Ratchet Bomb. However, with the full Dark Ascension set spoiled, I'm not thinking you're better off with green to support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ray of Relevation to answer Curse of Death's Hold and your opponent's anthems in the mirror.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Garruk Relentless&lt;/a&gt; as another token-maker and an Overrun effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T15:03:02.083" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T15:03:02.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6188" CreationDate="2012-01-19T18:47:03.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A should not draw.  The player the card was played &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; is the one who draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to think about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the swap turn, Player A has X cards and Player B has Y cards.  Player A plays a swap on Player B.  Assuming the deck has cards in it, afterward Player A should have Y cards and Player B should have X cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to think about it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players have a full complement of 6 cards, and a swap is played, both players should end up with 6 cards when the dust settles.  Assuming there are cards left in the deck, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T18:47:03.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6210" CreationDate="2012-01-19T19:40:17.990" Score="7" ViewCount="3041" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=151979&quot;&gt;Enchanted Evening&lt;/a&gt;, all permanents are also enchantments.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220116&quot;&gt;Mesa Enchantress&lt;/a&gt; allows you to draw when you play an enchantment.  If I have both out, and play a creature, do I get to draw a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-19T19:52:07.317" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:32:49.000" Title="Would spells played with Enchanted Evening in play trigger Mesa Enchantress?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6209" CreationDate="2012-01-19T19:50:19.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, because Enchanted Evening does not change the card type of spells on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Enchantress' &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220116&quot;&gt;Oracle wording&lt;/a&gt; makes this clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an enchantment spell, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Casting&quot; refers to the action of putting a spell on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted Evening only affects permanents. It will do so from the very moment they enter the battlefield, so they enter the battlefield as enchantments. But the spell that creates the permanent (which is the game object that's represented by the card on the stack) isn't an enchantment spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T19:50:19.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6212" CreationDate="2012-01-19T20:50:51.277" Score="6" ViewCount="3264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Grafdigger's Cage doesn't prevent me from casting Green Sun's Zenith from my hand, but what happens if I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Maza6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dFrWR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-04T14:29:58.283" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T14:29:58.283" Title="What happens if I cast Green Sun's Zenith while Grafdigger's Cage is on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6211" CreationDate="2012-01-19T20:56:24.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two important comp. rules here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.2.&lt;/strong&gt; When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &amp;quot;can't&amp;quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;609.3.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'll search your library for a green creature cost with converted mana cost X or less, &lt;strong&gt;do absolutely nothing with it&lt;/strong&gt; (since you cannot, due to Grafdigger's Cage) and leave it in your library, then shuffle your library, then shuffle Green Sun's Zenith into it's owner's library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to shuffle Green Sun's Zenith into your library for G, which might be handy/relevant in some obscure case (possibly against mill decks?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T20:00:20.403" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6149" CreationDate="2012-01-19T21:38:18.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can there be a right answer to this question? You bluff for 2 reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - To take a pot when you don't think you have the winning hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - To make people believe you are willing to bluff so you can sucker them in when you have a winning hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often you can bluff totally depends on how well you've convinced others that you aren't doing one or the other of the above. That varies by night. That varies by the cards you've been getting. That varies by how well people know your style. That varies by how well you think the other players at the table can be bluffed. It varies by how often you think other players are bluffing. It varies by how often other players call versus fold. It varies by how other players have reacted to your bluffs. IOW, there is no way someone can say to bluff a certain percentage of the time since there are way too many variables. Besides, if you learn that someone bluffs say 2 times per hour then any decent player will use that knowledge to their advantage. And anybody bluffing 25%-40% of the time at tables I play at will lose their shirt night in and night out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of thumb that I use if I am going to bluff:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I believe that I am going to win with that bluff. (Notice that I didn't say hope)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am playing for option 2 above; and then I ensure that I only lose minimal money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount of money in the pot versus how much I need to put in has really good odds and there is still a prayer that I'll win outright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't put a frequency on any of those options because it's all about feel and reading the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, I think bluffing is far over-rated in poker anyways. In general, when you bluff you put up a relatively high amount of money, but you get relatively little in return since you are trying to get people to fold.  You are far better served learning when to play your cards and when to fold them and maximize your profits from that. People aren't stupid. You can make money bluffing in the short term, but eventually people catch on and set you up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="917" LastActivityDate="2012-01-19T21:38:18.230" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6605" CreationDate="2012-01-19T22:37:22.073" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the card Terror be used before you place Trogs, if you draw the Event Card that turn? It says it can be played during the Threat phase, but when is the Threat Phase in relation to rolling dice, placing dice, drawing Event Cards, summoning Demons/Trogs, and moving/attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T13:23:32.047" Title="Can I play Event Cards before I place Trogs?" Tags="|claustrophobia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6216" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-19T23:04:24.010" Score="3" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, for a normal Heroic victory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...you must move the Chosen One (by the normal movement methods) to&#xA;  the building where the Organ of Eternity is located...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rules later state that one can select any character when one claims victory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who declares victory can choose to move any character,&#xA;  even one already used by another player during that Hour, or&#xA;  which is blocked by an event of ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for claiming a Fenrir victory are similar, except one has to move the Fenrir character to the Chosen One; the &quot;any character&quot; provision applies to both a heroic victory and a Fenrir victory exactly as worded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, moving the Chosen One (or Fenrir) by the normal movement rules implies that that character is the one selected since normally one can only move the selected character, and it stands to reason that the right to choose any character is just to prevent the Chosen One/Fenrir from ever becoming unavailable and thus making victory impossible for that Hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's unclear whether either of the following scenarios would be valid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claiming a Fenrir victory, selecting the Chosen One, and moving him or her to Fenrir rather than vice-versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claiming a victory, moving an unrelated character to the victory location, then using the &quot;swap 2 characters&quot; tile on the Chosen One/Fenrir.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first scenario doesn't involve Fenrir moving at all, so it doesn't seem to count as &quot;moving Fenrir to the location of the Chosen One&quot; by a literal interpretation of the rules.  The second scenario could count if one considers that the Chosen One/Fenrir &quot;moves&quot; when the swap action is played on him/her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I may just be overthinking this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these legal plays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T13:18:54.530" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T13:18:54.530" Title="When claiming victory in 011, can one select a character other than the Chosen One or Fenrir?" Tags="|011|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6219" CreationDate="2012-01-20T02:11:23.897" Score="11" ViewCount="3856" Body="&lt;p&gt;We love this game, but we have one big question about the rules for Step 2/Step 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 2 cards flipped in Step 2. If no one at all wants them, does the active player &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to plant them come Step 3, or do they go in the discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2344" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T15:43:26.653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T23:55:13.840" Title="Bohnanza - If no one wants the cards drawn in Step 2, does the active player HAVE to plant them in Step 3?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6133" CreationDate="2012-01-20T03:44:54.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll second TimK's suggestion of  &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?LifeAndDeathTheBook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Life and Death&lt;/a&gt;, particularly for developing a general approach, and also throw in a few others I've found useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gobase.org/studying/problems/academy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Korean Problem Academy&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent collection of progressively more difficult problems.  The books themselves are the best way to go if you can find them, as they have no answer key but generally can be solved relatively quickly and with patterns that show up in actual games.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?RescueAndCapture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rescue and Capture&lt;/a&gt; by Yang YiLun is not really about L&amp;amp;D &lt;em&gt;per se&lt;/em&gt;, but there's a strong related element in finding tesuji to rescue or capture groups.  You can still find this book over on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.yutopian.com/yutop/cat?product=PAY18&amp;amp;category=PAY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yutopian&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.smartgo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SmartGo&lt;/a&gt; has a wide mix of problems, many of which fit with what you are looking for. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For speed games in particular I'm partial to the advice that you should find the level of problem that you can solve &quot;almost instantly&quot; since what you are doing is training speed reading and pattern recognition.  This means that you may end up doing problems that are &quot;below you rank,&quot; but that's an excellent way to be able to actually see and solve the problems in game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2195" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T03:44:54.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6217" CreationDate="2012-01-20T04:04:44.937" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have to be planted by the active player if not traded to another player.  However,the active player can plant one (ripping out whatever was there) and then, if all his bean fields have no more than one bean planted, plant the second in the same field (ripping out the first bean).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't forget that the active player can donate those beans too.&lt;/em&gt;  Sometimes it is the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-02-04T03:16:33.870" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T03:16:33.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6201" CreationDate="2012-01-20T07:28:02.603" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first day it is awfully random.  However, there are a few rules of thumb you can use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you mentioned the seer, so let's get that out of the way, then the rest of my explanation should work for games without seers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a seer you should stay quiet until you've identified a werewolf.  Once you've identified a werewolf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Say &quot;&lt;em&gt;I am a seer&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal who've you've identified good and bad&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other seers in the game should &lt;em&gt;ALSO&lt;/em&gt; admit to being seers, and give the information they've learned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once this is done, there may be a werewolf masquerading as a seer.  This is fine, as both groups now will kill each other off until there are no more people claiming to be seers.  Since cards are revealed, you now know which seer information to trust and which not to trust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, assume a game with no (more) seers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out who and how to accuse, consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a werewolf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The odds are against you, accuse the more experienced player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you feel like the group is a forgiving one, accuse your other werewolf, be antagonistic to him throughout the game.  If this is known it's likely you'll be seen as safe once one of you dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Say nothing, at all, ever.  People tend to accuse people seen to have 'agendas'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a human:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accuse the most experienced player.  He is the one most likely to succeed at deception.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accuse the most impatient person.  A werewolf doesn't need to wonder anything.  Wondering takes cognitive cycles, so werewolves tend to be quicker to talk/accuse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With a 2/8 split, your odds of choosing someone randomly as a villager are 5:2 (71%).  So have all the players, simultaneously, choose a person at random and point to that person.  This is their 'safe' person that they'll 'trust' throughout the game.  If any two people are pointing to each other (the odds are against this), kill that person, else kill the person with the &lt;em&gt;fewest&lt;/em&gt; fingers pointing at him.  (NOTE: The two at each other prevents the werewolves from protecting themselves).    Do not change your safe person throughout the game.  If your safe person dies, you do NOT choose a new one.   This technique works not within a single game (the odds of who gets the most safe fingers is random), but across games, as this makes the safer people &lt;em&gt;MORE OFTEN&lt;/em&gt; the villagers than the werewolves.  The 'no two at each other rule' also helps to make the werewolves less likely to have the most votes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, cold-reading, is a perfectly valid strategy.  I correctly identified, on the very first round, a werewolf in 9 of my last 10 games I played.  The biggest tell is a change in people's behavior.  Most people are not good actors and can't help but play differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T07:28:02.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2012-01-20T08:43:57.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about where you live, but over here, there are many board game clubs that welcome people once a week or so. The one near my place has more than two hundred games, and players to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also organize some events several times a year, where some clubs and shops come together and put their games in common. In these, you have more than 500 games and 100 people to play with. I think it's the best way to discover a new game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try and check in your area if you have such a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T08:43:57.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6201" CreationDate="2012-01-20T08:56:12.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should play on the fact that no one is really sure of who is who. If I tell you &quot;I am a seer, this guy and that guy are werewolves&quot;, who says I'm not a werewolf trying to pretend I'm a seer, just to kill some people faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try that: each one has two roles, a real one and a fake one. Don't change the rules of the game, don't distribute more cards, just tell them to choose another role by themselves and to act during the day as if they were that person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I may be a werewolf, but I decide to act as if I was the witch (someone else could have the same idea and two people can claim to be the witch). During the day, you can ask anybody who he is, but you have no guarantee that that will be the truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing that and discussing freely of who is who, you will have a way to determine who to lynch: the one that seems to hide something (well, everybody does, but there are people who hide more hideous things such as &quot;I am a werewolf&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can't decide &quot;who is a werewolf&quot; on the first evening, nor can you choose randomly. So playing that way gives you a reason to talk to eachother and maybe find that &quot;Pete's story has some holes in it. Maybe he's not a werewolf, but surely he is a liar. Off with his head!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T08:56:12.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6204" CreationDate="2012-01-20T10:42:52.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience is that a known but unrevealed traitor is less damaging than a revealed traitor. Moreover, an unrevealed traitor who doesn't know for certain he's been ID'd may be of some minor benefit, especially if the solo-quests are not his to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An unrevealed traitor, however, can truly sabotage the single-time solo quests something fierce... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game is close to 12 swords, say 9+, and a quest is close it's time to gank the traitor to prevent 2 swords from flipping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T10:42:52.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6236" CreationDate="2012-01-20T15:57:22.760" Score="7" ViewCount="797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games like Battle Star Galactica define pretty clearly what kind of table talk is allowed during the game to help give the Cylon Traitor a chance to remain hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, if any table talk is allowed in Shadows Over Camelot?&#xA;What kind of talk is specifically forbidden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you for example peek at the Progression of Evil deck (with the appropriate knight), and then say &quot;don't draw from the deck,&quot; or &quot;the top card is everyone lose a life,&quot; or can you say nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, with King Arthur, you pass cards face down. I assume you cannot reveal what each player passed the other after the fact (hands should remain hidden, right)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T16:13:26.790" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T22:19:54.947" Title="What kinds of table talk are allowed in Shadows Over Camelot?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6233" CreationDate="2012-01-20T16:18:15.347" Score="13" ViewCount="8248" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are replacement effects handled in multiplayer? Here's a concrete example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A, B, and C are seated around the table. It is Player A's turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Furnace%20Of%20Rath&quot;&gt;Furnace Of Rath&lt;/a&gt; (double all damage), and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hostility&quot;&gt;Hostility&lt;/a&gt; (prevent damage to opponents, and create 3/1 tokens instead) in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volcanic%20Fallout&quot;&gt;Volcanic Fallout&lt;/a&gt; (2 damage to each creature and player).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B responds with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=29513&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hallow&lt;/a&gt; (prevent all damage from spell, gain life equal to damage prevented).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No one has any more responses, no other permanents are in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What possible different life totals and 3/1 tokens are generated when the stack resolves?&#xA;Who gets to make the choice(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the possibilities change if Player B or Player C are the active player? What are&#xA;the possible results?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:32:46.127" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T03:56:09.127" Title="In what order are replacement effects chosen with respect to damage prevention?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6170" CreationDate="2012-01-20T17:05:20.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules imply pretty heavily that you can take multiple samples. As for dumping them, that's not so clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if the players are new and don't know all the rules, or are struggling, I would just remove one sample per turn to give them a chance to break in and stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T17:05:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-20T17:30:09.437" Score="12" ViewCount="27901" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the new Dark Ascension expansion, the card Markov Blademaster has double strike. Stormkirk Captain gives all other Vampires first strike and +1/+1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the Blademaster has double and first strike. Does that mean it deals combat damage three times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2347" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T22:10:08.830" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T06:37:20.657" Title="Does a creature that has both double strike and first strike deal damage three times or only twice?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2012-01-20T17:39:46.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will only hit 2 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double strike just means that the monster deals damage during first strike and regular damage.  It's already dealing first strike damage, so adding first strike won't add anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2348" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T17:39:46.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6228" CreationDate="2012-01-20T17:41:15.457" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will only deal combat damage twice.  First Strike and Double Strike create an additional combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.4b/702.7b&lt;/strong&gt; If at least one attacking or blocking creature has &lt;strong&gt;first strike or double strike&lt;/strong&gt; as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one extra combat damage step is created in which &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; creatures with first strike and/or double strike deal their combat damage.  Then it moves onto the &quot;normal&quot; combat damage step where double strikers deal their comabt damage again (along with anything that had neither first strike nor double strike)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T20:11:24.977" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T20:11:24.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6231" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-20T18:05:23.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player represents an alien race that must establish bases in the systems of other aliens. Players take turns making challenges against other players using numbered cards while other players choose to aid the attacker or defender. Fortunes can rise and fall rapidly due to game altering edict cards and the alien powers which confer a unique way to bend or outright break some rules in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many versions of Cosmic Encounter, most of which have expansions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-04-02T03:54:32.133" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T03:54:32.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6232" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-20T18:05:23.003" Score="0" Body="Cosmic Encounter is a game designed for 3 or more players. The game-play emphasizes the interactions between the players. &#xD;&#xA;Each player represents an alien race that must establish bases in the systems of other aliens. Players take turns making challenges against other players using numbered cards while other players choose to aid the attacker or defender. Alien powers confer a unique way to bend or outright break some rules in the game." OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5912" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T19:14:17.053" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T19:14:17.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6225" CreationDate="2012-01-20T18:07:46.880" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the rulings for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Furnace%20of%20Rath&quot;&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple effects modify how damage will be dealt, the player who would be dealt damage or the controller of the creature that would be dealt damage chooses the order to apply the effects. For example, Mending Hands says, &amp;quot;Prevent the next 4 damage that would be dealt to target creature or player this turn.&amp;quot; Suppose a spell would deal 5 damage to a player who has cast Mending Hands targeting himself or herself. That player can either (a) prevent 4 damage first and then let Furnace of Rath double the remaining 1 damage, taking 2 damage, or (b) double the damage to 10 and then prevent 4 damage, taking 6 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ruling is the result of Comprehensive rule 616.1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;616.1. If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object's controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some caveats under rules 616.1a-e which specify when some effects must be applied first, but I don't see that they apply in this particular case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So therefore, since each player and their creatures are taking damage, they each get to decide the order to apply the replacement effects. They decide how the damage will be applied to them and their creatures in APNAP order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player's left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the &amp;quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&amp;quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three replacement effects. I will summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Furnace of Wrath: Double the damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hostility: Prevent damage to opponent, get 3/1 token for each 1 damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hallow: Prevent all damage, gain life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means there are six possible orders the replacement effects are applied. If Hallow is applied first, the order of the next two effects is irrelevant. Each player gets to choose the order the effects are applied, and they are applied simultaneously! So it doesn't really matter who's turn it is, although that might affect each player's choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volcanic%20Fallout&quot;&gt;Volcanic Fallout&lt;/a&gt; does 2 damage to each creature and each player. I will use Y as the number of creatures the selecting player controls. Each player chooses the order they are applied to themselves and their creatures, so here's the possible results for replacement effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;123: 4 tokens if player B or C, 4Y life (4 + 4Y life if player A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;132: 0 tokens, 4 + 4Y life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;213: 2 tokens if player B or C, 4Y life (4 + 4Y life if player A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;231: 2 tokens if player B or C, 2Y life (2 + 2Y life if player A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;312 or 321: 0 tokens, 2 + 2Y life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A, presumably, wants to maximize the number of tokens generated so will choose order 123. Player B will presumably want to minimize the number of tokens and maximize their life gain so will choose 132. Player C, presumably, doesn't want tokens and wants to minimize player B's life gain so will choose 312 or 321.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if damage is applied simultaneously, we have contradictory results! What happens? The key is CR 616.1. Player A has no control over the order of replacement effects for the damage taken by his opponents, so unless, for some reason, Players B or C want him to get tokens, he won't. Even if Player A chooses order 123, that order only applies to the &lt;em&gt;damage applied to Player A and the creatures controlled by Player A&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore Player A should choose order 231, 312 or 321.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically it's &lt;strong&gt;as if&lt;/strong&gt; Volcanic Fallout was split into three spells, and each player chooses the order that the damage applied to them and their creatures is prevented and doubled. The amount of life gained by player B will be determined by the number of creatures on the board, as this will affect everyone's decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whew! I hope I interpreted this right! A real head-scratcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T03:56:09.127" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T03:56:09.127" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6242" CreationDate="2012-01-20T20:03:53.663" Score="11" ViewCount="4807" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good place to find out about designer board games that have been converted to the Android platform?  I know about the standard popular ones like &lt;a href=&quot;https://market.android.com/details?id=com.exozet.android.catan&amp;amp;feature=search_result&quot;&gt;Catan&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://market.android.com/details?id=com.exozet.game.carcassonne&amp;amp;feature=search_result&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;, but it seems like you have to perform the leg work of looking through BGG lists/internet searches way more for Android than iOS to find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2352" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T20:23:27.993" Title="Android Versions of Designer Board Games" Tags="|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-06-06T15:52:00.407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6204" CreationDate="2012-01-20T21:35:36.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We generally wait until latter in the game for 2 reasons. First is the unrevealed traitor seems to be less damaging as aramis points out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second reason is because we normally don't meet the requirement of 6 siege engines or 6 swords until a good portion into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever played in a game where there were 6 siege engines and no swords on the table to answer that particular part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastEditorUserId="2022" LastEditDate="2012-01-20T22:04:11.587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T22:04:11.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6224" CreationDate="2012-01-20T22:19:54.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 8, of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/shadowsovercamelot/en/img/sc_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Official Rules&lt;/a&gt; talks about collaboration.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can talk about, generally, what you're going to do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can talk about, generally, what your hand can do in terms of your previous intent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can not talk about specific cards.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a peek, you can say &quot;This would be bad, take a catapult instead&quot;,  but you cannot say &quot;This causes everyone to lose a life&quot; as it will identify that specific card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you can't ask for a &quot;Fight 5&quot; or use any kind of code that will 'get across' the hint of what card you need (e.g. &quot;I need a very powerful warrior, sir&quot; is cheating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hands remain hidden, all specifics are hidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best and more fun way I've found to enforce these rules is to speak only 'in character' in the game.  &quot;Sir Arthur, my men-at-arms are lacking in strength to seek the armor, please assist&quot;.   Or, &quot;I have heard rumors of the location of the grail, shall I go seek it, or does someone else feel that can find it before me?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T22:19:54.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2177" CreationDate="2012-01-20T22:37:16.103" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the introduction of additional roles on both the good and evil sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a run down on possible mechanical variations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional good roles (e.g. bodyguard, seer, witch) - By themselves, one or two adds something to the game, especially in a big group, but can unbalance the game towards 'good'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional evil roles (e.g. cultists, sorceress) - Good for balancing out evil when good roles are in place, plus the additional element of perhaps the werewolves not knowing who's on their 'side' makes it more fun for them in the daytime.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Random Roles - Random roles allows the game to deviate from fixed dominant strategy for certain known roles, and allows more deception (werewolves can pretend to be good roles not in the game as a defense)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No-reveal games - In these games, when someone is killed the group doesn't find out what they were.  (The moderator will declare victory when its obtained).  This version is much more difficult for both sides and completely changes role strategies.  Suggested only for experienced players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, any of these things depend on the group and balancing the roles.  Nothing particularly becomes stale because you can simply change the mix of cards to effect a different game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T22:37:16.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5769" CreationDate="2012-01-20T23:00:49.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play 1-2 games per week and play with 10 expansions.  This usually results in HUGE farms where, with the additon of the barn and pig farm tile, frequently makes the farm land worth 125+ points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last few games, by sliming farmers onto the huge barn land, taking one pint per city (plus one for the pig, and one for the pig farm, per farm) have had scores over 1000 points!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's getting so bad that completing cities and roads are meaningless when you can slime onto a farm and get 60 points in two turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We toyed with the idea of making fences...  Something that could be deployed similar to a bridge, but instead of joining farms, it would block them...  Haven't figured out the details on that one yet....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that using the city of carcasonne as the starting tiles is part of the problem.  The three city sections that are part of Carcassonned allow farm land to flow between them and carc, and the three road sections are trivial to get around using bridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea we had was to encourage smaller farms by scoring out farms that become completely enclosed.  If a farm can no longer grow, you get your dude back and the farm is immediately scored out.  Not sure how well that would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing another game tonight so well see if we can come up with a solution...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-20T23:00:49.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6249" CreationDate="2012-01-20T23:41:00.463" Score="6" ViewCount="1758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased a new game: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tafl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hnefatafl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as far as I'm aware, this is the game that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thud_(game)#Thud&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thud&lt;/a&gt; is based on, which is the real game I want to play. For reference, here is my set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gSqsV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here are my pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCM0T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have twelve defenders, and 24 attackers. It looks like those aren't enough (based on the number in the wiki link), so how can I make up the numbers? Or can I play n a smaller board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what is the best way to reproduce that original board? Do I need to consider anything balance-wise &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; I do shrink the board/number of pieces? What else should I consider?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually hnefatafl according to this wikipdia page I found&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tafl#Tafl_variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oapRM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:36:41.783" Title="Can I use my Tafl game to play Thud?" Tags="|hnefatafl|thud|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6245" CreationDate="2012-01-21T04:23:00.907" Score="7" ViewCount="7836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit of a bridge noob, but I'm kind of puzzled about this. Say I have a hand that is ridiculously strong in one suit, say &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 10 cards with all 4 honors (I'll use spades for the example suit). how should I bid? This is so many cards that almost nobody will be leading spades but me, so if another suit is trump, I'm flush out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I would want to end up playing a spade contract with a good potential for a slam, but if I open too high, say 5 spades, won't my opponents catch on pretty quickly and bid in their own suits or No-trump, just so my spades will be next to useless? They will likely have favorable distributions for their own suits since nearly all the spades are gone, which only worsens the fact. Then again, if I bid to low, my partner may not rebid, and while taking 12 tricks at a contract of 3S is obviously good, knowing you will have that many overtricks from the start seems kind of a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if I held 12 or 13 spades, if I bid 7S, won't my opponents just bid 7NT and I'll never get to lead? &lt;strong&gt;How should hands with this heavy a distribution be bid to make the most of them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've already said I'm not a very experienced bridge player, so if I'm making any glaring oversights don't hesitate in the slightest to bring them up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I know these hands are extremely rare, but in all reality, every single possible hand is rare enough that studying bridge hands is actually quite useless because you'll never see the same hand again in your life...but we do it anyway because that's how we learn. Couldn't you tell anyone asking about a specific hand not to worry about it because it'll never show up again? :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T20:51:57.053" LastActivityDate="2017-11-28T22:27:41.663" Title="How should hands that are EXTREMELY strong in one suit (10+ cards) be bid?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6225" CreationDate="2012-01-21T04:35:53.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love asking this question, because even people who consider themselves rules gurus usually get it wrong (including me). &lt;strong&gt;Final Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I think I have it right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ghoppe&lt;/strong&gt; correctly identified the rules that handle multiple prevention effects trying to modify the same event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;616.1.&lt;/strong&gt; If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object's controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player's left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the &quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 101.4&lt;/strong&gt; is just reminding us what APNAP order is, and the fact that even though the choices each player make have an order, the result of their choices are applied simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets Look at the actual text of each card (ignoring parts that don't apply), so that we know what the event is, and what is trying to replace that event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Event) &lt;strong&gt;Volcanic Fallout&lt;/strong&gt;: ~this~ deals 2 damage to each creature and each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/strong&gt;: If a source would deal damage to a creature or player, it deals double that damage to that creature or player instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;: If a spell you control would deal damage to an opponent, prevent that damage. Put a 3/1 red Elemental Shaman creature token with haste onto the battlefield for each 1 damage prevented this way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hallow&lt;/strong&gt;: Prevent all damage target spell would deal this turn. You gain life equal to the damage prevented this way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The event that &lt;strong&gt;Volcanic Fallout&lt;/strong&gt; is creating, can be thought of as 4 individual events that happen simultaneously. You will see later why it is easier to think of the event in these terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Player A (Active Player)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 101.4&lt;/strong&gt; lets &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; make choices first, because they are the active player. According to &lt;strong&gt;Rule 616.1&lt;/strong&gt;, they may only get to make choices for replacement effects for which they are the affected player/affected object's controller. This means that they completely ignore &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;'s replacement effect, because it is only replacing damage to opponents. This leaves &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; with two choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13: Apply Furnace of Rath, then Hallow. (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; +12 Life)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;31: Apply Hallow, then Furnace of Rath. (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; +8 Life)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1)(3) If &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; chooses to apply Furnace of Rath first, the event looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal (double) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal (double) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then because there are still replacement effects to be applied, &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; applies &lt;strong&gt;Hallow&lt;/strong&gt; to the event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 4 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 4 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 4 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 4 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;strong&gt;Hallow&lt;/strong&gt; prevented all damage from the event, the other players do not have a choice of applying &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;'s prevention effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result Player B gains 12 Life&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3)(1) If &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; chooses to apply Hallow first, (then Furnace of Rath has no effect), the event looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result Player B +8 Life&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Player C (Active Player)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead, &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; is the active player, they can choose when to apply all prevention effects, including &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt; since it is preventing damage to them. &lt;strong&gt;Rule 101.4&lt;/strong&gt; lets &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; make choices first. This leaves &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; with 6 choices for replacement effect order. (Parenthesis indicate that the replacement effect has nothing to replace for that player). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - 123: Apply Furnace of Rath, Hostility, (Hallow). (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; 4 tokens, plus &lt;strong&gt;Player A's&lt;/strong&gt; choices)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - 132: Apply Furnace of Rath, Hallow, (Hostility). (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; +10 Life)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - 213: Apply Hostility, (Furnace of Rath), (Hallow). (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; 2 tokens, plus &lt;strong&gt;Player A's&lt;/strong&gt; choices)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - 231: Apply Hostility, (Hallow), (Furnace of Rath). (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; 2 tokens, plus &lt;strong&gt;Player A's&lt;/strong&gt; choices)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - 312: Apply Hallow, (Furnace of Rath), (Hostility). (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; +8 Life)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - 321: Apply Hallow, (Hostility), (Furnace of Rath). (Result &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; +8 Life)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) If &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; chooses to apply Furnace of Rath first, the event looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal (double) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2)(3) Then &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; has two choices. Apply Hostility first, Hallow has nothing left to prevent. Proceed to &lt;strong&gt;Active Player A&lt;/strong&gt; for his choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (put) 4 (3/1 tokens) into play under &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;'s control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result Player A 4 tokens, plus Player A's choices&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3)(2) or &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; Applies Hallow preventing all the spells damage (no more decisions for any other player):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) &lt;strong&gt;Hallow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 4 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result Player B +10 Life&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) If &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; chooses to apply Hostility first, the event looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - deal 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (put) 2 (3/1 tokens) into play under &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;'s control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Player A is no longer an affected player (Hostility has prevented all damage to them and any other permanents they are the owner of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result Player A 2 tokens, plus *&lt;em&gt;Player A's&lt;/strong&gt; choices&lt;/em&gt;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) If &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; chooses to apply Hallow first, the event looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; - (Prevent all damage) 2 damage to &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; gains 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;strong&gt;Hallow&lt;/strong&gt; has prevented all damage, the remaining events have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result Player B +8 Life&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Player B (Active Player)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; is the active player, they will have the exact same 6 choices for the order of replacement effects as &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt;, and the same possible outcomes when &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; was the active player. The only difference is, if they choose to apply the effects of &lt;strong&gt;Hostility&lt;/strong&gt; before &lt;strong&gt;Hallow&lt;/strong&gt;, then they need to add in the additional choices that &lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; could make (which might also lead to choices that &lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; could make). This is because applying Hostility prevents all remaining damage to the affected player. If instead each player controlled some creatures, they would need to apply the effects of all three replacement effects, because Hostility only prevents damage to players leaving Hallow with the ability to prevent damage to affected creatures that the active player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with such a simple example, you can tell how the order of replacement effects can have a great effect on the results of an event. With just one event, and 3 replacement effects, you have a wide diversity of outcomes. You can think of the possible outcomes as a decision tree, with the Active Player making choices and either leading to a lower branch or ending. Player A will receive either (0/2/4/6/8 tokens, and Player B will gain 4/6/8/10/12 life) all dependent upon who the Active Player is, and the decisions they make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;strong&gt;Player B&lt;/strong&gt; Active (Player A +8/+10 life or Player A +2/+4 tokens and proceed to C Active Player add results from their decisions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;strong&gt;Player C&lt;/strong&gt; Active (Player A +8/+10 life or Player A +2/+4 tokens and proceed to A Active Player add results from their decisions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;strong&gt;Player A&lt;/strong&gt; Active (Player B +8/+12 life if A is Active Player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) (+6/+12 from A's decisions if C is Active Player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) (+4/+8 from A's decisions if B is Active Player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-11T00:35:36.087" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T00:35:36.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6234" CreationDate="2012-01-21T04:51:29.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com&quot;&gt;Boardgamegeek.com&lt;/a&gt; has several geeklists with android versions listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/73371/android-games-with-asynchronous-multiplayer&quot;&gt;Android Games with Asynchronous Multiplayer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/72020/android-versions-of-actual-boardgames&quot;&gt;Android versions of actual boardgames&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are not the only ones, just the ones that stood out in the search results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T04:51:29.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6206" CreationDate="2012-01-21T05:25:21.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only buy a single die, per Threat Phase.&#xA;The Destiny Board says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Die Score&lt;/strong&gt;: Roll an extra Die of Destiny during the next Threat Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules page 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(red) &lt;strong&gt;The Calm Before The Storm&lt;/strong&gt; (red) allows the Demon player to roll an extra Die of Destiny during their next Threat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities printed in (red) can only be selected once per &lt;s&gt;game&lt;/s&gt; Threat Phase (Errata: &lt;a href=&quot;http://claustrophobia-theboardgame.com/fr/?p=441&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;claustrophobia-theboardgame.com/fr/?p=441&lt;/a&gt;). There are no limitations for the Abilities printed in (black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T06:48:05.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6246" CreationDate="2012-01-21T07:57:39.007" Score="1" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been some notable releases through Kickstarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/627547359/eminent-domain-the-next-evolution-of-deck-building?ref=category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eminent Domain&lt;/a&gt; - one of the earlier big successes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/maydaygames/eaten-by-zombies-deckbuilding-to-die-for-game?ref=category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eaten By Zombies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1325766284/d-day-dice-board-game?ref=category&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;D-Day Dice&lt;/a&gt; - most successful board game kickstarter to date.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you expect Kickstarter to effect the Designer Board Game ecosystem? Will Kickstarter flood the market with too many bad games from people trying to get rich. Will it kill the industry like Napster did to the music industry? Will it be more like Youtube, lowering the entry field for exciting new designers, like Youtube brought us many new entertainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T02:54:03.847" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T02:54:03.847" Title="What impact will Kickstarter have on how Designer Board Games are released?" Tags="|game-design|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-02-08T02:40:55.327" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2012-01-21T08:08:06.377" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 10+ spades in your hand, you will never let a contract die out in 3S now, would you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the hand, but people play the following two conventions which might potentially be useful (of course, there might be others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/Namyats.html&quot;&gt;Namyats&lt;/a&gt;. This is to distinguish hands which are too strong for just preempting 4S. You show stronger hands by bidding 4D (taking spades as your suit), which you could potentially use here, though 10+ would probably be too strong. There are various followups which can be used to investigate slam.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4NT opening bid as Ace asking. Say you had AKQJxxxxxx, A,x,x. You could bid 4NT as asking for Aces, and bid the slam appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, hands with a 10+ suit are very rare and even experts have trouble with them (or rather, don't bother with them so much, because of the rarity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question about opponents taking out to their suit, why do you think that is likely to happen? It is quite risky for them to be bidding at the 5/6/7 level, without a running suit of their own. Your bidding at the 4/5/6/7 level would have taken out enough bidding space to make it unlikely they would be able to overcall easily (and find a fit). You seem to be also forgetting that you have a partner who could still hold some cards, and could easily double them and take them for a number. If they do bid, well, you can't help it, but I would say it is not as likely as you seem to think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your edit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, any specific hand (down to the spots) is a low occurrence (in fact same chance for each hand!), but bidding systems are not geared towards finding the exact specific hand you have. Bidding systems are geared towards finding fits, distribution and strength with the ultimate goal of finding the right strain and level based on the scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When talking about 'rarity', you should be thinking in terms of hand &lt;em&gt;types&lt;/em&gt; rather than specific hands. So when someone says getting a 7 card spade suit is much more likely than getting a 10 card spade suit, they are not talking specific hands, but a &lt;em&gt;set&lt;/em&gt; of hands. Take the set of all hands which have 7 card spade suit and the set of all hands which have a 10 card spade suit and compare the counts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people say 10+ card suits are rare, they are talking about the whole set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might never get the same hand dealt again, true, but the same hand type (say 15-17 balanced) might occur again frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bidding space is very limited, and trying to cater to rare hands can be inefficient use of that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-01-22T20:39:53.760" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T20:39:53.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6244" CreationDate="2012-01-21T09:02:22.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many kickstarter games (at least on the RPG side) have either demo modules or playtest rules, which you can read BEFORE committing. I've seen a couple on the boardgame side as well, where the rules PDF was posted; the kickstarter was for a nice set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see boardgames relying upon components to move stuff via kickstarter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the typical mode for Kickstarter, you have to get people trusting that you (1) have a clue and (2) made at least a passable game, and then get them to promise money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't convince them, then you don't get your cash, and they don't get charged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you convince them, but they dislike the game and/or components, they can leave bad feedback... so after two or three tries, you're not going to get any but the most clueless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, it's not going to bring a rash of get-rich-quick scammers. It's self-limiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T09:02:22.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6899" CreationDate="2012-01-21T13:36:59.763" Score="1" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the deployment step, should you ever place your Blank Epigon at any location other than an edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eq9OH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Secret Deployment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, in this game you want to push off 3 of your opponents pieces and prevent your opponent from doing the same. Keeping your pieces off the edge just seems to be prudent. Is there ever a reason to place your Blank in the center of the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IEfhu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Bad Blank Deployment&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZpuA2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Good Blank Deployment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T00:36:49.120" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T00:36:49.120" Title="Should you ever deploy your blank at a position other than an edge in Epigo?" Tags="|openings|epigo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2012-01-21T15:47:09.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Aryabhata's answer, you should consider the possibility that a 12 or 13-card suit is not the result of a random deal.  (I don't agree that it's necessarily cheating; the commonest reason is somebody taking a new pack, cutting once and dealing, without checking whether the cards were ordered by the manufacturer).  So if you are looking at a 13-card suit, the probability is that all three others are doing the same, no matter what the mathematics say. Bid seven spades just in case, but the deal will be void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And 7NT over 7S is radically unsound (unless you are in fact cheating).  If the wrong person calls, it is a guaranteed 13 down: even if not, there is no reason to think you can make all 13 tricks just because the spade suit will never be touched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T15:47:09.527" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6239" CreationDate="2012-01-21T16:20:19.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you have bought is a Tablut set, which is a reduced version, and actually survived into the twentieth century. Viking Hnefatafl had 25 defenders and 50 attackers on a larger board, but the rules are (believed to be) the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Thud, from the link, is a board game (inspired by Discworld) created by Trevor Truran.  It seems a bit unfair to try and play it without buying a set, but if you do you can, of course, try out any combination of board and pieces; at what point you move into creating your own game is an interesting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, more for casual visitors than as a real answer; the Thud Lord Vetinari plays existed only in Terry Pratchett's fertile brain.  A boardgame has been officially approved, but it would be as unwise to try and follow  the Dwarf King's actual strategy as it would to try and build a network of semaphore towers across the land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T15:36:41.783" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:36:41.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6250" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-21T16:23:39.873" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T16:23:39.873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T16:23:39.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6251" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-21T16:23:39.873" Score="0" Body="The Viking game (meaning *king-board*, similar to chess. Also covers Tablut, a smaller version, which is sometimes sold as hnefatafl by museums and similar groups.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T16:25:18.183" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T16:25:18.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2012-01-21T16:38:20.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hands gain strength in two ways, by the number of high card points, and the number of trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For now, I'm going to assume that you have a minimum hand of your type, that is, 10 spades to the AKQJ and no other honors. Your hand is only &quot;average&quot; in high card points (10), but it is WAY above average in trump strength (most hands would consider themselves lucky to have five). In this case, you can make four spades, so just bid it. Even with 10 to KQJ, I'd bid 4 spades and hope that partner has the one trick I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your opponents can't bid NT because you'll run the spade suit. They MIGHT have a suit contract at the 5 or 6 level, but your &quot;pre-empt&quot; has taken up so much bidding room, so they might not find it. With luck, you'll take your ace of spades on defense, and if partner has a &quot;little something,&quot; you'll be able to beat most five or six level contracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It typically takes 25-29 points to make game. If your partner has a &quot;few,&quot; your opponents won't have a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, your FIVE extra spades gives you a lot of extra points. I count each extra trump (over five) as being worth three points. Basically, your hand is worth 25 points (ten HCP, 15 for the extra trumps) if you play in spades, and only 10 if you play in any other suit. That's why you can, and should, be aggressive about bidding spades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T23:51:21.833" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T23:51:21.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3529" CreationDate="2012-01-21T16:41:19.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get a crafty friend to cut a set of interlocking tiles for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6681&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6681&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or print a set of border pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6436&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T16:41:19.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2012-01-21T17:24:34.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The BoardGameGeek has a fun annual convention in the Dallas area in the Fall where you could get hands on experience with a wide range of games in a very flexible atmosphere.  Getting tickets is hard unless you get them at the exact right time in the spring though.  Their site is a must-visit for anyone interested in games in my view and I agree with the first answer on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several other conventions might be a good place to attend and see many other games as well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2355" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T17:24:34.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6185" CreationDate="2012-01-21T19:15:18.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that site that has good price and a vast inventory : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fungamescafe.com/fgcIndex.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fungamescafe.com/fgcIndex.php&lt;/a&gt;. With BoardGameGeek they are our two major provider of idea for new games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T19:15:18.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6259" CreationDate="2012-01-21T19:31:50.750" Score="7" ViewCount="13332" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are viable strategies for trying to win Shadows over Camelot? Our group always seems to lose when we play. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-21T20:15:28.760" LastActivityDate="2019-07-07T12:04:43.347" Title="What's a good strategy for Shadows over Camelot?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6256" CreationDate="2012-01-21T21:31:16.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spend the entire 2 starting rounds drawing cards at Camelot. This gives you a better idea of which quests you have a good chance of winning and which you need to move towards right away to keep from losing. Otherwise you're just moving around blind without having enough of the right cards for a specific quest. When I play I actually deal out 10 cards to each player and then have each of us perform 2 evil actions right from the start, so this happens automatically and saves time (players can choose to do otherwise if they wish though).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In accordance with the first point, movement is your enemy because it in itself doesn't do anything to help you win. Sure it gets you closer to somewhere you might need to be, but the movement itself is not beneficial. Avoid moving somewhere unless you know you're either going to be able to win the quest quickly and decisively, or plan to spend at least 3 turns there actually doing useful things (playing cards).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prioritize. If there are already 3 relatively high black cards on the black-knight quest, you can probably consider just giving up and losing it so you can spend time winning other things (like that d*mn holy grail...). Likewise, if you're really close to winning a certain quest, consider burning a life or having another player move there and help you win before something bad can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know when to use Merlins. I tend to not use them to remove catapults as their other 2 uses are usually better. Removing a standard black card from a quest can buy you the time you need to win, and being able to cancel a really bad black card without having to use any heroic actions is invaluable. Try to save them for when you need is strongest though, like when you're about to lose something a really critical quest. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know how to use the special powers. King Arthur's ability is invaluable for getting the right cards to the right people and many of the others are equally valuable. I won't go into detail about each one, but try to take advantage of them as much as possible. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cooperate as much as possible without giving any one player enough power to lose the game for you if they are the traitor. The advantage of coordination is well worth the downside of confiding your plans to the traitor, and as long as you don't let one player take 3+ merlins from winning a quest (or similarly give them too much power) you should should okay.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prefer to draw a black card for evil actions unless you have a good reason not to, like being 1 card away from losing a question you are also very close to winning. This makes sure you can place catapults and burn life when you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; need to avoid pulling a black card that might lose you the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3312/strategies-for-playing-the-traitor-in-shadows-over-camelot&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See here for advice on how to play if you're the traitor!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-01-21T21:31:16.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-21T21:51:31.853" Score="8" ViewCount="30784" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are enjoying the game Phase 10 but are unsure about one rule. According to the rules, is it ok to discard a playable card allowing the next player to go out? This ends the hand and causes each other player to have remaining cards in hand scored against them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this considered fair play, to lose a particular hand on purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2357" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T15:12:14.787" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T00:32:43.993" Title="Discarding a card in Phase 10 that allows the next player to go out" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6256" CreationDate="2012-01-21T23:23:36.003" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shadows Over Camelot is actually unbalanced towards the Knights winning.  In fact, the base game has even been solved (guaranteed victory) when playing with 7 players.  The key to that victory lies in the special white cards.  Since they're reshuffled (both decks are reshuffled when you reshuffle one) when you run out of cards, what the Knights should do is keep their hands mostly full as often as possible, thus they can quickly cycle Merlin cards and other whites, instead of 'saving' them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, when starting the game, everyone should spend time drawing up white cards at Camelot, until they reach their limit of 12.  Only then should someone go questing.  The only exception to this is Lancelot's armor.  The first knight who has a full house should immediately go claim the armor, as it's the most powerful tool for white victory in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this strategy, the most important Knight roles are King Arthur (for passing cards) and Sir Galahad (for playing the special whites for free).  In general, Arthur gives the specials to Galahad, then he stays at Camelot drawing them and playing them (Merlins included).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, this is a race against time, so movement is the enemy.  Every time you move to a quest, you should lose a life to perform the quest's heroic action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that bad blacks, life (through piety), cards, and even redrawing (through convocation) are dealt with, all that remains is how to complete quests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, the Armor is the most important.  Get that quickly.  Ignore the Dragon, for the most part.  When fighting Picts and Saxons, your goal should be to complete the quest with 2 or 3 picts/saxons on the board, since then, effectively, those would have been 'wasted' black cards (i.e. don't be too safe and not put any mercenaries on the one you're working on, and, of course, don't lose the quest).  Try to keep the Grail and the Sword, &lt;em&gt;JUST SHORT&lt;/em&gt; of victory, until the armor is attained.  If you complete these quests too early, you'll just be adding catepults.  While this is happening, always take black cards, as they're the easiest.  Cats are much more expensive to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gotten the armor, and defeated a pict/saxon or two, then gang up to get the sword, draw back up on grails, and then gang up to finish the grail.  Since black cannot 'gang-up' on a quest, you're sure to have victory with the overwhelming numbers.  You do the Grail last (hopefully with a Heroism card on it), and get 4 white swords for it.  (Heroism is key to winning as well).  The traitor won't matter, since even flipping two won't affect the outcome.  Don't waste time on accusations.  The first person to accuse will be the traitor, so if he accuses, accuse him back and it's dealt with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late in the game (during the gang-up phase).  Use life points and cats to avoid drawing the black cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of special blacks, most aren't that bad.  The ones to really worry about (i.e. use 3 merlins to stop) are Mists of Avalon (always), Vivian (always), and Dark Forest (if the grail is in danger of being lost, only). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how a typical game might go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lancelot's Armor obtained (+ Heroism)  2 white swords.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saxon's defeated (3 white total)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Picts lost (3 white 1 black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black knight lost (3 white 2 black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excalibur Claimed (+Heroism)  (6 white 2 black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dragon Lost (6 white, 4 black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grail Found (+Heroism) (10 white 4 black)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traitor unrevealed (8 white 6 black)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White Victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T20:58:07.990" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:58:07.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6261" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-22T00:32:16.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stratego is a 2 player board game with 40 pieces per side on a 10×10 square board. The objective of the game is to either find and capture the opponent's Flag or to capture so many of the opponent's pieces that he/she cannot make any further moves. Each collision of 2 pieces results in the inferior ranked piece being removed from play. Players cannot see the ranks of each other's pieces, so disinformation and discovery are important elements of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several different versions of the game, most of which are called by exactly the same name: Stratego. A 20 piece and 10 piece version of the game also exist and are intended for a faster game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T22:34:37.957" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T22:34:37.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6262" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-22T00:32:16.907" Score="0" Body="Stratego is a 2 player board game with 40 pieces per side on a 10×10 square board. The objective of the game is to either find and capture the opponent's Flag or to capture so many of the opponent's pieces that he/she cannot make any further moves. There are also variants with 20 and 10 pieces with the same overall rules but designed for faster play." OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T22:35:41.207" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T22:35:41.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6244" CreationDate="2012-01-22T06:43:14.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is more to a games publishing company than just getting sales capital.  You need to source things, advertise/promote, support, etc.  Kickstarter is just one piece in a much larger puzzle of self-publishing.  Also, they take a very high percentage for the 'service' they provide.  Finally, Kickstarter does not guarantee that the promised service is provided.  Several people I know have already gotten burned by this.  I expect as it gets more popular, people will stop trusting the service as much.  In short, I see little difference in the industry as a whole with the advent of Kickstarter.  We should see just as many small design shops/self-publishers as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T06:43:14.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6060" CreationDate="2012-01-22T19:00:31.993" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect that you're right that in principle and possibly even in practice an optimal AI could be built for this game to determine who can win from the starting position, though it would likely take more computing power than you're likely to have readily available.  The best approach for brute-force solving a game like this is something close to what user1873 suggests in comments: rather than considering all lines of play, simply consider all board positions and determine the value of each board position.  This is the approach that's typically taken for solving Chess endgames; while this board has many more cells (I count roughly 200, although the diagram isn't very clear) than the average chessboard, the fact that all the pieces are identical here does help a bit, and so it may be within reach; note that the chess endgames with 6 and 7 pieces have been solved for quite a while now.  There are roughly (200 choose 3) = 200*199*198/6 = 1313400 positions for one team's chariots, and so roughly 1.7 trillion positions for all the chariots that would need to be evaluated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, note that you don't have to build a 'move matrix' of 1.7 trillion x 1.7 trillion entries explicitly; that &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be too large.  Instead, the game could be solved with a sort of backtracking: first, identify those positions which are clearly won, and which person is winning them.  Next, 'backtrack' - that is, play a turn in reverse - to identify all of the positions from which won positions can be reached, and then forward-evaluate each of those positions with a short move tree for that one turn to determine which of these positions lead to a forced win by one player or the other.  You need a 'move tree' here because a turn isn't just a single move, but instead consists of multiple interlocking moves by the two players.  Once that first turn's worth of backtracking has been done, another turn's worth can be handled in the same fashion; positions can be continuously added to a queue for evaluation, with a bunch of new 'one-move-back' positions added each time the queue empties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the catch here is in that move tree; the branching factor there is large enough that it probably pushes an explicit solve out of the realm of practicality (although perhaps not out of feasibility for someone with enough computing power).  A 'move tree' consists of an assignment of the cards 1-5 to 3 chariots (plus a possibility of throwing cards away) for each player, plus some interleaving; this gives &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; (ignoring the throwaway) 75 moves at the first branch (3 different chariots that can be moved, times 10 (picking 3 cards from 5) + 10 (picking 2 cards from 5) + 5 (picking 1 card from 5) possible moves for the picked chariot) and up to 28 moves at the second branch (2 chariots that can be moved, times 4 (picking 3 cards from 4) + 6 (picking 2 cards from 4) + 4 (picking 1 card from 4) possible moves for the picked chariot).  Since cards can be thrown away for turns, we'll back-of-the-envelope bump these to 100 and 50, and call it 10 moves at the bottom branch; this gives roughly 50,000 moves for each player that have to be considered in the move tree, or about 2 billion possible branches to examine on the move tree.  I suspect this is highly overestimated - possibly by up to a factor of 100 or so - but a more careful analysis would be much trickier to finagle here.  Even so, I'd guess there are many million possible ways of each turn playing out, and while doing some standard alpha-beta pruning (using established positional values) will cut that back down, it's still likely to take quite a bit of work at each of the 1.7 trillion nodes to establish a value.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since positions may have to be evaluated more than once (if the first time determines that they can't be wholly solved yet), the overall work done is likely to be on the order of several exaflop (i.e., quintillions of operations total) worth of computation.  That's a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of operations - but note that you could get yourself access to a petaflop/second's worth of computational power, and thus do the whole solve in a few thousands of seconds - i.e., a few hours (possibly a few days).  The biggest bottleneck is likely to be access speed to the database of values for positions, since something on the order of a terabyte (the rough size of that database) is still a bit too large to be kept in memory at this point; it'd have to be carefully designed to keep as much as feasible cached in memory and to be very smart about its disc accesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said - I'd say that this is right on the edge of supercomputer feasibility right now; if the game were a bit better-known, this would make an excellent graduate project for a sufficiently motivated supercomputer programmer (or team).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T19:00:31.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6266" CreationDate="2012-01-22T20:01:38.383" Score="9" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the following is joseki for an approach of the 4-4 stone followed by a 3/3 invasion...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 A normal 3/3 invasion joseki (incomplete)&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . 7 3 . . 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . 5 4 O . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . 6 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.. and this is a possible continuation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Continuation of the joseki&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X 1 2 O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X O O . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | 4 O O . 6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . 3 X 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, a white move at E18 has to be answered by black, or white A16 kills. &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#kjd%3apdqfncqcqdrdrercqepcocrfsepfoe&quot;&gt;Eidogo&lt;/a&gt; lists only black 7 as above at this point. It does not list the following variation, hence, I assume it is somehow bad for black, but I am not sure why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Deviation from joseki&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 3 1 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X X O O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X O O . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | O O O . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I correct that black is alive like that? If not, please show how to kill black.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that black is alive in both variants, why would one prefer the default variant? I first thought that 7 may be sente, but with E18 threatening to kill it seems gote just as well, while getting fewer points?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm sorry if this is a duplicate question, but I have no idea how to search a stackexchange site for go-deviations really)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2104" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T21:55:02.507" Title="Deviation of 3-3 invasion - how to live/kill?" Tags="|go|joseki|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6265" CreationDate="2012-01-22T21:30:43.823" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the deviated form, white can play at &lt;code&gt;B18&lt;/code&gt; and the corner will live or die as a ko, or it can end up in seki.  Even if black has more than enough ko threats to win the battle, it is unlikely ever worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm4 Continuation of deviation: Ko&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | 7 . 3 6 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | 2 1 a X X O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X X O O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | 4 X O O . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | O O O . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corner lives or dies depending on who wins the two stage ko; black's normal defense of playing &lt;code&gt;7&lt;/code&gt; at &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; won't work due to a shortage of liberties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if white does not have sufficient ko threats the whole corner could end up as a seki as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm4 Continuation of deviation: Seki&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | 8 a 3 6 5 7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | 2 1 . X X O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X X O O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | 4 X O O . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | O O O . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X X X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in this variation, black can choose to start the same ko by playing &lt;code&gt;11&lt;/code&gt; at &lt;code&gt;a&lt;/code&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-01-22T21:55:02.507" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T21:55:02.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6290" CreationDate="2012-01-22T21:51:12.863" Score="18" ViewCount="3651" Body="&lt;p&gt;When learning modern bidding (Standard American 5 card majors in my case), I noticed that the system's bidding techniques and common conventions described good ways of getting to a reasonable contract for most common types of hands very well, but seemed to miss with certain types of hands*. I also misbid a number of hands that experienced players at the table said were likely to end up in the wrong contract using my bidding system, and that &lt;em&gt;that was okay&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do experienced bridge players think it is okay for a bidding system to generally result in poor contracts for certain types of hands*, urging beginning to intermediate players to delay learning how to bid these types of hands until they have much more experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Examples of &quot;certain types of hands&quot; include strong hands such as very long suits (9+ cards), 2 voids, seeming slam potential despite missing an Ace, etc. But also weak hands that intuitively seem to have potentially good pre-emptive value despite not falling into traditional weak 2 or weak 3 types of hands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-06-28T16:15:20.603" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:51:19.830" Title="Why are beginning to intermediate bridge players told to delay learning how to bid certain types of unusual hands?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|teaching|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-22T22:14:43.987" Score="6" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of decisions you can make, like what starting powers you want for your character, and which character you choose, but everything else seems like it is already predetermined or random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't explore edges of the cavern, you get an encounter card. If you do explore the edges of the cavern, you reveal monsters that attack you first (I suppose you sometimes get to determine which player the monster attacks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choices for which Item/Daily Power are equally as obvious (the weapon with the highest chance deal damage). Perhaps the only choice that requires any kind of difficult decision is when to use your Daily Power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something, or is there little if any strategy/tactics in this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2365" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T14:01:44.850" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T21:14:06.853" Title="What tactical/strategic decisions can you make in D&amp;D: The Legend of Drizzt board game?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6478" CreationDate="2012-01-22T22:51:11.567" Score="13" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you may well have guessed by now I play a lot of online Agricola; here's a situation that comes up all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm the second player, and sheep come up as the round one action card, quite often my second action will be to take starting player, take 2 Clay at the beginning of round two, positioning myself to get an early Fireplace and score a sweet 6-8 Food in round four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is a powerful sequences of plays and if left unchecked sets you up quite nicely to expand without food worries in rounds five through seven.  Nevertheless, I'm always quite surprised at the alacrity with which most of my opponents like to take the sheep in response to my building a Fireplace, obviously having to release all but one into the wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I'm continually soundly beating the players who &quot;waste a turn&quot; depriving me of sheep; obviously I'm not overjoyed to be losing a few &quot;free&quot; Food, but equally I'm delighted that my opponent has spent a crucial early turn doing virtually nothing except trying to annoy me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simply, have I miscalculated the value of the sheep-stealing move?  If you are playing an opponent who aggressively takes 2 Clay and builds a Fireplace hoping to celebrate the first Harvest with an enormous sheep barbecue, would you spend an action taking sheep from under his nose and why?  Can anyone effectively break down the pros and cons of such an action for me?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T12:38:14.630" Title="Should You Take &quot;Your Opponent's&quot; Sheep In A 2-Player Game?" Tags="|tactics|agricola|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2012-01-22T23:00:31.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poker doesn't need money, it just needs a way of keeping score, and money is a convenient way of doing that, although it has other advantages as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T23:00:31.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6267" CreationDate="2012-01-22T23:04:18.410" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go for a &quot;so simple it's possibly insulting&quot; answer here.  Hopefully it won't actually be taken amiss!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge is a complicated game.  There's a lot to take in, and in many ways there is no end to the amount of obsessive fine-tuning you can do to your system.  A beginning player who has just brought a fat Bridge tome and read bits and pieces of the theory will probably blunder in and get a lot of things wrong the first few times they play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, their more experienced mentor may subscribe to a Keep It Simple, Stupid philosophy.  It's all very well to be enthusiastic about Jacoby Transfers and splinter raises to the 4 level over 1NT, which are in the latest chapter you've read, &lt;em&gt;but these things are precision tools that are used in quite specific circumstances that don't come up very often&lt;/em&gt;.  If you are devoting brain-space to them before you've mastered the art of bidding and defending simple 3NT contracts, you are almost certainly putting the cart before the horse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's much more useful to get good at basic Bridge before you start cogitating about the best techniques for winning rare outlying scenarios.  In fact, I'd go so far as to say that you will have a much better chance of understanding these rare-outlying-scenario techniques, why they're needed and how they work, after you've really gotten a feel for &quot;basic&quot; &quot;simple&quot; Bridge.  Beforehand, they actually stand a strong chance of screwing up the way you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, anyone who feels compelled to spend a long time panicking about how they'd deal with being dealt a 12- or 13-card suit should probably take a crash course in basic probability.  Understanding probability is a big part of being good at Bridge.  I'd feel a lot more comfortable playing with a partner who &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; think one-in-a-million chances are worth taking in the course of the play :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-22T23:04:18.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6273" CreationDate="2012-01-23T00:17:05.987" Score="9" ViewCount="54774" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a small-blind/big-blind poker game (I'm thinking of Texas Hold 'em, but I guess this question applies to any similarly structured poker game), how does the structure change when the games gets to the final two players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for four+ players, it's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[D] [SB] [BB] [UTG]* (pre-flop)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For three players, it's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[D/UTG] [SB] [BB]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for two players, is it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[D/BB] [SB/UTG]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&#xA;[D] = Dealer&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;[SB]=Small Blind&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;[BB]=Big Blind&lt;BR&gt;&#xA;[UTG] = Under The Gun, i.e. first to act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="59" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T06:00:54.787" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T03:05:07.493" Title="In a two-player Texas Hold'Em poker hand with blinds, which player posts the small blind?" Tags="|poker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6272" CreationDate="2012-01-23T00:25:38.250" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Under practically all rules, the dealer posts the small blind and is first to act preflop. After the flop, the other player acts first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other rules have occasionally been implemented -- I believe Party Poker used to have this backwards preflop -- but this is almost universal. It is generally thought to lead to a better game with more action, as the small blind has a higher incentive to complete or raise when he has the benefit of acting last postflop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1672" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T00:25:38.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6272" CreationDate="2012-01-23T01:02:27.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What your post describes, with the dealer posting the big blind, covers how I have always seen this scenario played, between various casinos in Biloxi, MS, USA and local games in Nashville TN and Atlanta GA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T01:02:27.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2088" CreationDate="2012-01-23T01:06:52.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poker, like Chess, is a lifestyle game. Most of the people who play it with any frequency rarely play anything else. This distinction is coincident with different mindsets in the majority of players than from players of other games. If you get a table full of &quot;poker players&quot; to play Puerto Rico together, the game will be very uncompetitive and random unless you add a money factor to it. Similarly, get a table full of modern board gamers together and you can have a very intense and challenging game of poker with no money involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T01:06:52.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2810" CreationDate="2012-01-23T04:05:10.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Timing is really important in that game.  A lot of building can only be build once.  If you are at a particular moment when a specific choice allow you make a important move, at that time you will go for a line that is not necessary the best to develop.  For the rest of the answer, I will assume that you are not in one of those situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, since each track get better and better, you have interest to develop a few track to their end, instead of just starting all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Victory point&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since everything is ultimately convert to victory point, I will use that track as the reference.  So you should develop this track unless you are in a particular situation making another more interesting.  At the end of the game when you know you won't have conversion opportunity, you should go for this line (unless you can make a building that gave you more points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Money&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the conversion ratio at the end of the game (1 for 4), this track is worth a lot less the that the victory point.  However, when the bank and the church are available, you are able to convert money to a lot more victory point, but you should only get as much money as you will be able to convert (plus what you need for each turn up to the end of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resources&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This line was never useful as a fully developed line in the game I played.  I assume it became useful when green building start to replace existing resources and no new resources building has been build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have several favors and I am short of a resource for a big building favor, I use this line to get it.  It is also useful if you need that resource to build a particular building before another player.  But those two situations are really rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Building&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This line give you a lot more bonus when the corresponding building are not available.  How ever, you need to develop it early in the game, so you have to guest what the other players are going to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the choice of using a building in your normal turn or via a favor, the bonus of the favor is very little compare to the other line and none for the fifth square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="605" LastEditorUserId="605" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T16:22:38.843" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:22:38.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5943" CreationDate="2012-01-23T05:24:17.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;user1873 is correct in all but one respect: Imperial Balkania. The reason is that the first ability (expand into 4+ territories for a card) will likely only get you as many as 3 cards in any given game, while their second power (round up for territories) can be unlimited. And what he is forgetting is that, while no you arn't likely to get 10 territories in a 5 player game, you are if you include population. I know this doesn't apply in the first game, but remember these powers are permanent and there will be cities in every other game (this isn't a spoiler, you know this from the rulebook) and if you control 20% of the territories, which is 8 or 9, all you need is 1 or 2 cities for this to apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take the round up power, without doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2362" LastEditorUserId="2362" LastEditDate="2012-02-05T00:29:19.340" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T00:29:19.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6284" CreationDate="2012-01-23T07:56:59.083" Score="6" ViewCount="7743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building my first EDH deck and have chosen &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThraximundar%5d&quot;&gt;Thraximundar&lt;/a&gt; (Grixis) as my general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My deck has a lot of synergy centered around sacrificing creatures.  I find it easy to benefit from sacrificing and have plenty of targets for sacrificing but I need more ways of enabling the sacrifice triggers.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bViscera%20Seer%5d&quot;&gt;Viscera Seer&lt;/a&gt;, not much to go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:53:39.780" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:53:39.780" Title="Sacrifice enablers for EDH" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6154" CreationDate="2012-01-23T08:26:59.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the meta has stood for many decks over the last few years the 6 CMC 'Titans' or other 5-6 cost creatures that have a instant effect on the board-state have been the finishers for many decks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 6 cost is achievable in Standard decks and the design of these creatures makes then a instant threat that even if they only survive a turn they still impact the board in a significant way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 3-4 cost bracket, the usefulness of these creatures seems to have changed with the release of the INS block. In the ZEN block there were only a few creatures at 3-4 CMC that saw play, with most decks in my meta being polar aggro or control.  I'm seeing many more mid-range decks in INS with really great creatures in the 3-4 cost bracket.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastEditorUserId="2182" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T00:51:29.560" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T00:51:29.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-23T10:29:44.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22sacrifice%20a%20creature%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+[%22sacrifice%20a%20creature%22]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without wishing to suggest specific decks for you, the above link should at least give you plenty of ideas to get your creative juices going!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T10:29:44.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-23T10:32:41.973" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are tons of options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/cmd/en/72.html&quot;&gt;Attrition&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/chk/en/159.html&quot;&gt;Blood Rites&lt;/a&gt;, while requiring to pay mana, would kill your opponents creatures (or the opponent himself in the case of the rites). If you need something that doesn't require mana to activate you could try &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m11/en/85.html&quot;&gt;Bloodthrone Vampire&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pvc/en/2.html&quot;&gt;Carrion Feeder&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/91.html&quot;&gt;Devouring Swarm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/9e/en/137.html&quot;&gt;Hell's Caretaker&lt;/a&gt; can be an interesting choice, because it gets creatures back when sacrificing others, but can be activated only once per turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/di/en/117.html&quot;&gt;Lyzolda, the Blood Witch&lt;/a&gt; can be sweet, drawing you cards when sacrificing black creatures or dealing damage when sacrificing red ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots more, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3a%22sacrifice%20a%20creature%3a%22%20c!ubr&amp;amp;s=cname&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;p=1&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; you have Magiccards search of creatures that have an activated ability which requires to sacrifice a creature and are black, blue or red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T10:32:41.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-23T13:42:44.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I generally shy away from suggesting a single card, in this case &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=29947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;At the beginning of each player's upkeep, that player sacrifices an artifact, creature, or land.&quot;&gt;Braids, Cabal Minion&lt;/a&gt; fits the bill so perfectly that it's tough to ignore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T13:42:44.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:10:09.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+![G]+![W]&amp;amp;text=+[%22sacrifice%20a%20creature:%22]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teach a man to fish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gatherer is your friend. Once you know how to use it, you can find many of your own answers. You might want to examine the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Advanced.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Advanced Search&lt;/a&gt; to narrow your search, or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Help.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Help Page&lt;/a&gt; to get an idea how to search. Explanation of the URL variables above ('?' starts the query, '&amp;amp;' separates variables, Left Hand Side (LHS) is the variable name, RHS is the value of the variable):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;action=advanced (gives responses for a greater range of variables)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;color=+![G]+![W] (card mana cost does NOT ('!') contain Green AND does NOT contain White mana)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;text=[%22sacrifice%20a%20creature:%22] (contains the exact RULES TEXT ('&quot;' is %22, space is %20. URLs cannot contain these special characters, so they must be encoded) &quot;sacrifice a creature:&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can type your own search examples on the Advanced page, and then examine the URL to see exactly how your query is posted to the database. Technically, this search result would possibly show us cards that don't match the color identity of the Commander, if a card existed that contained a [G] or [W] activated ability, but not a whole lot of these exist. So just for fun, try replacing the RULES TEXT with this search strings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;text=+![B]+[%22Sacrifice%20a%20creature:%22] This will return all sacrifice a creature activated abilities on cards that don't contain Black Mana symbols on the card. You will note that the botto of page 0 is &lt;strong&gt;Quagmire Druid&lt;/strong&gt; which doesn't match our Commander's color identity. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T14:07:11.983" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T14:07:11.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6178" CreationDate="2012-01-23T14:26:39.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://killerbunnies.com/PDFfiles/bits_blueyellow.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; state that you can play a Very Special card from your hand at any time, even when it's not your go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules also state (order of operations) that at the end of your go you should have 5 cards in your hand and 2 in the run. So you should take a card when you play a Very Special card, although it's not completely clear whether you should do so immediately or wait until the end of your go to do so. Unless you happen to pick up another Very Special card or a Play Immediately card I don't think the timing actually makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I've always played that you take a replacement card immediately when you play a Very Special card from your hand, it seems the most sensible approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T14:26:39.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6288" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-23T16:27:51.797" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T16:27:51.797" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T16:27:51.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6289" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-23T16:27:51.797" Score="0" Body="A two-player card game in which players attempt to mount profitable expeditions to five lost cities." OwnerUserId="2365" LastEditorUserId="2365" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T16:33:18.760" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T16:33:18.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6267" CreationDate="2012-01-23T17:36:02.937" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;To best understand the answer to this question, it helps to understand the purpose of bidding and bidding systems. Bidding is an attempt by two partners to predict the number of tricks their combined hands can win in the play. The purpose of bidding is for each partnership to ascertain which contract, whether made or defeated and whether bid by them or by their opponents, would give the partnership their best scoring result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bidding system is the set of agreements and understandings (treatments and conventions) assigned to bids and sequences of bids used by a partnership. As a beginning player, you might think it a simple matter to develop a bidding system which, if followed, would always land each partnership in the contract which yields the highest score. In reality, no perfect system has been developed. The problem is that the number of possible hands is too large to be mapped onto a tidy bidding system that works well for all of them. There is simply not enough bidding space to develop such a system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since designing a perfect bidding system is (probably) impossible, compromises must be made. The way this is usually done is to divide hands into types and develop a sense for which types of hands are most common, less common, uncommon, and extremely rare. When designing a bidding system, you make darn sure that the most common types of hands are easily dealt with, landing you in the highest scoring contract 100% of the time or close to it. Then you keep modifying the bidding system to deal with ever less common types of hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A beginning to intermediate student of bridge will do well to follow this same path of successive levels of approximation.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you're learning the Standard American system with a pair of books by William S. Root (Commonsense Bidding, Modern Bridge Conventions), you first master the bidding basics in the first 10 chapters of the book Commonsense Bidding. Perhaps that will enable your partnership to handle 65% of all hands once you've thoroughly mastered these chapters. Then you read the rest of the book to get your partnership able to handle 86% of hands. Then you cover the one-star conventions in the next book, Modern Bridge Conventions, to get you up to 93%. Then the 2-stars get you to 96%. Then the 3-stars get you up to 97%. Beyond these 2 books you'll get into increasingly esoteric conventions that come up so rarely in play that they're very hard to remember - but may help you tackle most of the remaining 3% of hands not covered by the treatments and conventions described in these 2 books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual percentage of hands covered is almost certainly different than what I just described, but the concept is valid and can be applied to learning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The most efficient way to learn bidding in bridge is to concentrate on the most common hands first and master the treatments and conventions for that thoroughly before starting to move on to deal with successively less common hands.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common mistake of beginners and one which I made many times is to look at a certain hand and realize that the bidding I've learned so far probably won't work well for this type of hand. So instead of doing my best to follow the treatments and conventions I've learned so far, I simply ignore the system and try to do what feels right for the hand. This not only results in many misbid hands (your partner has no idea what you're doing!) but also slows down learning how to bid if you do this frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common issue is getting obsessed about learning how to bid a certain type of hand. Yes it's very cool to learn how to bid slams that have a missing ace but a void in that suit (Splinter bids). But this type of hand comes up maybe once per thousand deals. If you try to learn that before you've mastered the basics, you're concentrating your efforts on a 1 in 1000 occurrence before you're dealing well with types of hands that come up every time you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's why you want to delay learning how to bid certain types of hands even if it lands you in poor contracts from time to time. By learning how to bid more common types of hands first, you make more efficient use of your learning time and get more used to applying basic treatments and conventions. Once you master the basics, you can better refine your bidding system with added treatments and conventions but if you don't have a good foundation to build on top of, this is more likely to hurt than help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know from experience as I had to unlearn years of bad habits developed during casual play - habits that would not have formed had I understood this concept of successive levels of approximation. Once I understood this, I then fully unlearned my bad habits, and my bidding improved dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-23T18:57:31.047" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T18:57:31.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6297" CreationDate="2012-01-23T17:50:39.537" Score="8" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;Handicap games are very common in Go. The weaker player, taking black, gets to place (usually) up to 9 stones on the board, depending on the difference in skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both free and fixed placement are possible, with fixed placement being far more common. This question refers to fixed placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, both in handicap and regular games, black opens in the upper right corner, making him &quot;bow down&quot; to the (stronger) white player thus paying respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ -----------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does proper placement continue after the first stone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second stone in handicap games is, as far as I know, always placed in the lower left corner, but is the third stone in the upper left or the lower right? And what about the order of the next moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference in tradition between Japan and China (or elsewhere)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T19:28:26.247" Title="How do I properly place handicap stones?" Tags="|go|etiquette|handicap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6294" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:02:32.013" Score="18" ViewCount="39214" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official deck construction rules for Commander (nee EDH) at &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot;&gt;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&lt;/a&gt; say that 'A card's colour identity is its colour plus the colour of any mana symbols in the card's rules text.'  How does this apply to dual-faced cards with faces of different colors, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/products/isd/2cu61mus7z_en.jpg&quot;&gt;Civilized Scholar / Homicidal Brute&lt;/a&gt; out of Innistrad or &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/products/dka/z62b2aiqzb_en.jpg&quot;&gt;Elbrus, the Binding Blade / Withengar Unbound&lt;/a&gt; from Dark Ascension, where the color of the transformed face of the card is different from the color of the 'main face'?  The spirit of the rules would seem to suggest that these cards are the colors of both faces for deck construction purposes, but not only are these spells always cast as the front face, the front face is the only one 'seen' in other game zones: for instance, when the card's in the library, you could find Elbrus by searching your library for an artifact, but you couldn't find Withengar Unbound by searching your library for a creature card.  Could Elbrus then, for instance, be played in any Commander deck, or just one with a (partly) Black general?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:25:03.290" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T10:15:09.593" Title="In EDH/Commander, what is the 'color identity' of a double-faced card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-double-faced-cards|mtg-color-identity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:12:17.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a few that I have somewhere in my collection that look like good options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=!Carrion%20Feeder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carrion Feeder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=!Phyrexian%20Ghoul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the suggestions there are far more cards suited enabling sacrifices than I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T18:12:17.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6292" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:23:38.477" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, both sides of DFC count towards its color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.4c&lt;/strong&gt; The back face of a double-faced card (see rule 711) is included when determining a card's color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; Civilized Scholar is the front face of a double-faced card with mana cost&#xA;{2}{U}. Homicidal Brute is the back face of that double-faced card and has a red color&#xA;indicator. The card's color identity is blue and red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Elbrus can only be used in a Commander deck where Black is part of your Commander's color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T19:58:01.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6292" CreationDate="2012-01-23T18:34:24.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deckbuilding constraints apply to the deck (a set of actual cards, which exists even outside of the scope of a particular game), not just the library (a game zone); they &quot;see&quot; all aspects of a card, not just what it will look like as a game object in the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is borne out by the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.4c The back face of a double-faced card (see rule 711) is included when determining a card‘s color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T18:34:24.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:00:19.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have a look at cards that make each player sacrifice creatures/permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: Pox, smallpox, smokestack, innocent blood, fleshbag marauder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T19:00:19.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:14:32.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea behind playing in the upper right first is so that White doesn't have to reach far to play his first move.  The corner immediately in front of him on his right is left open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the third stone goes in the lower right corner, from Black's viewpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit as per the comments: Move order for 9 stones]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . 4 . . . . . 7 . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . 6 . . . . . 9 . . . . . 5 . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . 2 . . . . . 8 . . . . . 3 . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastEditorUserId="2454" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T19:28:26.247" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T19:28:26.247" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2012-01-23T19:42:19.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I previously commented, your question is worth breaking in to two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How do you bid long suits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Why do bridge players so often suggest that beginning to intermediate players put off learning to bid certain types of hands.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this second question to be so good that I separately asked and answered it here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6267/why-are-beginning-to-intermediate-bridge-players-told-to-delay-learning-how-to-b&quot;&gt;Why are beginning to intermediate bridge players told to delay learning how to bid certain types of unusual hands?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your original question about bidding hands with very long suits, my answer is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, throw out the notion of using points to evaluate the strength of the hand. There are so many tricks sitting in the hand that it's a simple matter to count them up, which is a more accurate method for evaluating hands of this type than points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades: AKQxxxxxxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hearts: xx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diamonds: A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clubs:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's obvious that I can take 11 tricks with this hand automatically. It's also obvious that all I need to take all 13 tricks is for my partner to take 2 heart tricks or to take two tricks in other suits before hearts are played so that I can discard my 2 losing hearts. All of this is very simple reasoning you can do without counting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only question you need to answer about this hand is whether partner has a heart ace, a heart void, or some other strength that might cause you to discard your heart losers before the defense ever plays a heart. If you bid this hand up slowly with a series of forcing bids, you partnership will hopefully get a chance to employ a control showing or control asking bid that allows your partnership to determine if the weak suit is covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, using the Standard American bidding system with weak two opening bids, this hand would be opened with two clubs (indicating strength, and forcing), and if you and your partner correctly employ appropriate control showing/asking bids, you would likely land up in the right contract, if there's no interference from the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That covers strong hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a weak hand, such as 10 spades and no face cards except the spade Jack, then you still have a minimum of 7 winners, and probability favors at least 8 winners. So with the weak hand it makes sense to preempt at an unusually high level of 5 or 6 spades, as your opponents are likely to have a slam contract. Going down 2 or 3 doubled will net your partnership a more favorable result than your opponents making slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm using a common bridge principle here that suggests that you should bid up strong hands slowly, but jump to a high bid quickly with weak hands that have long suits or other preemptive features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, the existing tools of your bidding system for dealing with very strong hands and weak hands with preemptive value may be enough to handle hands with exceptionally long suits. Learn these tools well, and you should be able to handle most hands of the type you described without too much trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:05:41.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="152" CreationDate="2012-01-23T20:59:41.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The National Mah Jongg League has an &quot;official&quot; version of American Mah Jong online with a PC based client. It cost an additional $40/year to your membership/card for the league. I have never tried it but it does allow for live online play with the current year's card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nationalmahjonggleague.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nationalmahjonggleague.org/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;http://www.nmjl.org/software/home.html&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T20:59:41.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2012-01-23T21:54:09.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FWIW, when I was able to play semi-regularly, my partnerships had an immediate opening to 2NT as a Blackwood-style demand bid asking for aces (in addition to the SAYC meaning for 2C). The idea is that 2NT means &quot;partner, my hand is highly unusual in some unspecified way; please let me take control of the auction&quot;. The &quot;natural&quot; meaning of a 2NT opening is covered by SAYC 2C (and it seemed worthwhile not to abuse 2C to lie to partner about high-card strength in strange situations - that's &quot;psychic bidding&quot; after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2234" LastActivityDate="2012-01-23T21:54:09.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6302" CreationDate="2012-01-24T05:03:32.953" Score="3" ViewCount="10459" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2117/what-is-the-term-for-a-stalemate-in-checkers&quot;&gt;What is the term for a stalemate in Checkers?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I was going to post this in StackOverflow, when I realized it really has nothing to do with programming. If it has a better home, please say so, so I can move it there.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making a basic Checkers game, and was setting up the game manager when I got to the method that gracefully ends the game. It would have taken in a &lt;code&gt;boolean&lt;/code&gt; value, &lt;code&gt;true&lt;/code&gt; signifying that player 1 has won, &lt;code&gt;false&lt;/code&gt; signifying that player 2 has won. However, I realized that, in most games, there is the possibility of a stalemate, so I changed it to a &lt;code&gt;byte&lt;/code&gt;, where &lt;code&gt;x &amp;lt; 0&lt;/code&gt; is player 1, &lt;code&gt;x == 0&lt;/code&gt; is a stalemate, and &lt;code&gt;x &amp;gt; 0&lt;/code&gt; is player 2. After that, i started contemplating whether Checkers can even have a stalemate. It seems like it's possible, but for the life of me, I can't come up with a scenario where the game ends and neither player wins. &lt;strong&gt;Is there any scenario, in the game of English Draughts (North American Checkers), where neither player wins the game, yet the game ends? Note that a forfeit on one player's part means that the other player wins.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2369" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T05:19:55.657" Title="Is it possible to get a stalemate in Checkers?" Tags="|end-game|checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-01-24T05:27:25.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6301" CreationDate="2012-01-24T05:19:55.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not force capture then it's very possible, trivial even, to have a stalemate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;English draughts (American 8×8 checkers) has been the arena for several notable advances in game artificial intelligence. In the 1950s, Arthur Samuel created one of the first board game-playing programs of any kind. More recently, in 2007 scientists at the University of Alberta[13] evolved their &quot;Chinook&quot; program up to the point where it is unbeatable. A brute force approach that took hundreds of computers working nearly 2 decades was used to solve the game,[14] showing that a game of draughts will always end in a stalemate if neither player makes a mistake.[15][16] The solution is for the draughts variation called go-as-you-please (GAYP) checkers and not for the variation called three-move restriction checkers. As of December 2007, this makes English draughts the most complex game ever solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2367" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T05:19:55.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5943" CreationDate="2012-01-24T06:03:46.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Die Mechaniker&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Your starting HQ is always treated as FORTIFIED (+1 to both dice) when you defend it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If your defense roll is two natural 6s, that territory cannot be attacked again for the rest of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason:&lt;/strong&gt; The odds of getting two natural 6s on a single roll is 1/36. Therefore, the odds that we have not rolled a pair of 6s by the nth attack is, (1-1/36)^n. This is roughly 50% by the 25th-26th attack. This means that in half the games that you roll with two defenders 25 times, you will still not have recieved a bonus from this power. I would say on average, the first game lasts anywhere from 3-5 rounds, and considering you will probably only get 3-5 troops per round, for a total of 8+[(3*5)|(5*5)]=[21|33] troops. If you only received the minimum troops each turn, you more than likely would never get the faction bonus. Even if you are lucky enough to roll 66, the only fair way to count troops saved would be to divide the troops that you could have lost by the odds of you rolling 66 (approximately 21/25 or 33/25, somewhere close to 1 troop. If you could get the 5 troops per turn (probably only likely by getting a continent bonus from Australia/South America/Africa, you would be much better off with a FORTIFIED Headquarters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fortified HQ gives you +1 to your High and Low dice. This bonus will result in you losing ~0.388 troops when compared to a normal &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/744456/odds-with-various-modifiers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unmodified attack&lt;/a&gt;. This means that you only need to have 4-5 troops within your HQ before this faction power is certain to have a greater effect than the pair of natural sixes power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Saharan Republic&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) You can make your maneuver at any point during your turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When making your maneuver, you may maneuver between any two territories you control, even if they are not connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason:&lt;/strong&gt; While neither of these power directly results in fewer troop loses, the ability to maneuver at any point in your turn could allow you to move troops that were previously on one of two different fronts (South America/Africa), for a final assault against two opponents HQs. I will edit this with a little more detail later on troop loses that could be avoided because of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Imperial Balkania&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) When recruiting troops, round up when dividing your territory and population by 3, not down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) You still draw a resource card at the end of a turn where you expanded into 4+ territories, even if you didn't conquer a territory.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason:&lt;/strong&gt; You aren't likely to be able to get 10+ territories in a 5 player game. At least with the second faction power, you will most likely get 1-2 resource coins. This will amount to at least 2 troops over the course of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Enclave of the Bear&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) The defender subtracts 1 from his lower defense die in the first territory you attack during your turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If your attack roll is a natural three of a kind, and at least one defending troop is defeated, you conquer the territory. Remove all defending troops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason:&lt;/strong&gt; From the same statistics link above (Die Mechaniker), you can see that -1 do the defenders low die will result in 0.14 less troop loses, but only for the first territory that they attack in a turn. A clever opponent though can place a 1-2 troops in front of their main defenses to mitigate this power somewhat. The odds of rolling a natural 3 of a kind that kills at least one troop is 125/7776. The number of turns before that is likely to happen is about 43 attacks with 3 troops. I don't think you are likely to see this within the first game. Even if you did, you probably would only kill at most 5 troops, saving you about 5 troops yourself (5/43=0.116). Two attacks with Enclave of the Bears first power would already save you more troops in the long run, and is much more likely to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Khan Industries&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) At the start of your turn, place one troop in each territory that has an HQ you control.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When drawing a territory card, you may place one troop into that territory if you control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reason:&lt;/strong&gt; You are certain to get 1 troop as long as you control your HQ. This will likely gain you 3-5 troops before the first game ends. The second power only gets you a troop if you defeat an enemy, and if you have that territory under your control at the end of the turn. You might have to waste a maneuver to bring those troops to the front lines, but you will earn more troops with the first power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I think that &lt;strong&gt;Khan Industries&lt;/strong&gt; is likely to earn/save you the most troops in the first game. With &lt;strong&gt;Die Mechankier&lt;/strong&gt; placing a close second, if you can place your HQ at a good choke point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T06:03:46.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-24T06:44:50.820" Score="8" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 20 of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attacking Population: After all battles have been resolved,&#xA;  the remaining Ships may attack the population in the hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 21:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Influencing Hexes: If a hex has no population after all&#xA;  battles have been resolved and you have at least one Ship&#xA;  there...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean when all battles have been resolved across the board, or just all battles within that hex?  Or is the timing left to player discretion, so long as it's all done &quot;after all battles have been resolved&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in a case where the blue player, who has no influence discs remaining, successfully attacks a hex, but loses another hex in a later battle (which frees up a disc), this can be understood three ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battles are resolved completely on a hex-by-hex basis, ending with attacking population and influencing the conquered hex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ship battles are resolved completely across the board, then population attacked and hexes influenced on an arbitrary basis at the end of the combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ship battles are resolved completely across the board, then population attacked across the board, then hexes influenced across the board, all in descending hex order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first interpretation blue would not be allowed to influence the first hex since the disc would not be freed at all until the later battles are resolved.  However, in the second and third interpretation, blue would be allowed to influence the first hex attacked since the disc freed from the later battle would be available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should this be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T07:04:40.553" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T01:35:10.350" Title="Is attacking population and influencing hexes done at the end of battle, or at the end of the combat phase?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6304" CreationDate="2012-01-24T08:29:21.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say option 3. That seems to follow the &lt;em&gt;Course of Battle&lt;/em&gt; as detailed on page 20-21:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Missiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engagement Round(s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retreat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stalemate&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attacking Population&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reputation Tiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Influence Hexes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repair Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player Elimination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where 1 through 4 occur for every battle. Step 5 through 9 occur after all battles across the board are resolved with the exception being step 6, since drawing reputation tiles occurs after every battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking population and influence hexes doesn't necessarily have to be done in descending hex order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T08:29:21.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6307" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:19:18.887" Score="6" ViewCount="4164" Body="&lt;p&gt;What can a Standard (M12, Scars, Innistrad) Red-Green werewolf deck use, either in the main deck or the sideboard, to handle a deck with Ratchet Bomb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Some back story:&lt;/em&gt; When a werewolf is in its transformed state, its CMC is 0.  So an opponent can cast Ratchet Bomb, then tap and sac it for 0 and destroy anything with a CMC of 0, which hits all transformed permanents (and all non-land 0 cost permanents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:30:49.413" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T22:31:21.707" Title="What ways are there for a Standard Werewolf deck to handle Ratchet Bomb?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:41:00.287" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;On color&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The obvious choice in your situation is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Full Moon's Rise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  It buffs all your werewolves while it's in play and you can sacrifice it to save all of them from a Ratchet Bomb.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another direction is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209035&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Withstand Death&lt;/a&gt;, but this only provides the means to save creatures on an individual basis and is a sideboard card at best.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=215082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Asceticism&lt;/a&gt; gives you the option of regenerating creatures and hexproof on top of that.  However, regenerating a large number of werewolves could get expensive. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artifacts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220589&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt; is another great way to ruin Ratchet Bomb's day, but it has its own limitations and weaknesses as a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=228118&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; would work as long as they are trying activating the Ratchet Bomb on your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Off color&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For others who might have the same concerns in a different mana base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue:  Obviously any counter is going to prevent Ratchet Bomb from ever entering the battlefield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213726&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Steel Sabotage&lt;/a&gt; would be a good one specifically for countering Ratchet Bomb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=215103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memoricide&lt;/a&gt; can remove any Ratchet Bombs that are not in play thus preventing them from ever being used.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; could be used for a similar effect, but unfortunately can only be used if a Ratchet Bomb is already in the Graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stony Silence&lt;/a&gt; can prevent the activation of a Ratchet Bomb.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nevermore&lt;/a&gt; can be used to ensure that Ratchet Bomb is never cast.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T16:24:28.537" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T16:24:28.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6281" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:41:36.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Thrax decks I've seen use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grave Pact&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247537&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Butcher of Malakir&lt;/a&gt;. These are good &quot;rattlesnake&quot; cards that also greatly magnify the value of anything you feed to a sacrifice outlet. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Attrition&lt;/a&gt; is also worth mentioning, since it's such a cheap outlet with one of the best beneficial effects. Consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Malfegor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50647&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Death Cloud&lt;/a&gt; if you want additional bulk effects of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrificing your own dudes for mana is also pretty awesome because you can often turn that mana into more dudes to sacrifice. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Altar&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=11158&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ashnod's Altar&lt;/a&gt; serve as the basis for many token-sacrifice engines. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243465&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skirk Prospector&lt;/a&gt; can do the same for Goblins, as can &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=108792&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basal Sliver&lt;/a&gt; for Slivers. Cards that create Eldrazi Spawn -- in particular, repeating ones like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194907&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pawn of Ulamog&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rapacious One&lt;/a&gt; -- are also good for giving you a bit of extra mana while Thrax has something to munch on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my Sheoldred reanimator deck, I actually use fatties as sacrifice victims, feeding them to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3090&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Soldevi Adnate&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=88807&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Miren, the Moaning Well&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189885&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xathrid Demon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=174796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Minion Reflector&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent way to get double value out of ETB triggers. The tokens it creates have a built-in self-sacrifice effect, but you might as well feed them to something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T15:41:36.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2012-01-24T15:57:01.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241981&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Full Moon's Rise&lt;/a&gt; is a card you're likely to run maindeck anyway, so you might as well go to four-of. It also partially protects against sweepers (Immerwolf is still going to die, and if there's a competitive-viable werewolves deck, he's pretty much the centerpiece; also Black Sun's Zenith still wastes you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W/B Tokens is likely to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247425&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stony Silence&lt;/a&gt; in the sideboard to deal with Ratchet Bomb. You could do that as well if you're already splashing white for other reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T17:23:43.260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:23:43.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6312" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:01:14.653" Score="8" ViewCount="2134" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the history of Hnefatafl in relation to Chess and/or Go? Which was developed first and what if anything influenced the development of Hnefatafl?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T18:31:39.127" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T09:42:43.273" Title="How is Hnefatafl related to Chess and Go?" Tags="|history|hnefatafl|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6316" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:02:05.757" Score="30" ViewCount="23646" Body="&lt;p&gt;In various forums and articles, it is frequently mentioned that Homelands is one of the worst, if not &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; worst, Magic the Gathering expansions. Even on the main Wizards website, you will occasionally see this mentioned. Is there any canonical consensus as to what was wrong with the expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2371" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T15:39:07.007" LastActivityDate="2019-05-30T15:52:27.717" Title="Why is Homelands considered among the worst Magic expansions?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:27:46.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;History of these ancient boardgames is a bit murky due to their really old age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wikipedia article on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hnefatafl&quot;&gt;Hnefatafl&lt;/a&gt; is a good starting point, but you can already see from that how vague the information is. Hnefatafl being played since around 400 is certainly older than Chess. In fact, it can be considered a predecessor of Chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A not so easy relation is that between Hnefatafl and Go - if it exists at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can be said for certain is that written documents on these three games can placed in a timeline like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go is the oldest with (written!) references dating back to ca. 400 BC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hnefatafl appears around 800 years later&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess appears again a few hundred years later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is particularly interesting is that Chess is believed to have originated in India, from where it basically traveled to Europe. By around 1000 Chess was far-spread in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the initial development of Hnefatafl, I am not aware of the influences. What is known is that Hnefatafl is tied very closely to the Vikings. Due to their enterprising nature they traveled through most of Europe helping to spread Hnefatafl. Also note that the end of the Viking age coincides with the time of the introduction of Chess, so it is not surprising that the latter continued to dominate the European scene for centuries to come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: In terms of influence between Hnefatafl and Chess, I'd wager neither significantly influenced the other. From the mere timeline it is possible that Hnefatafl may have influenced the development of Chess. But that would be a risky theory, as I am not aware of any written connection between these two and the spacial separation between Vikings and Indians makes it ever so unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2104" LastEditorUserId="2104" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T17:35:03.620" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:35:03.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6258" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:42:02.933" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is permissible ... and there are some occasions where you may find it to be advantageous. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One person may be on the same Phase as you and well ahead of the others, but she may not have made her current Phase yet. If you feel she is close and you are not, it may be worthwhile to &quot;end&quot; the hand so that neither of you can advance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, one person may be leading in terms of points, but he may have not laid down any sets or runs yet. It may be to your advantage to discard a card the next person can use to go out so as to (hopefully) stick the leader with a lot of points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as is the case in many games, what is legal according to the rules may not necessarily be acceptable according to your group. Discarding such a card in this case may lead to cries of bias for the person to your left or against the perceived victim of your play. It may be wise to determine which is the primary concern in your group, winning or enjoying the game, before you decide how to play the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this assumes that you have multiple cards to discard, and that you have not yet made your Phase. If you have made your Phase, then any card in your hand that the next person could play is also playable by you; you should play that one yourself and discard a different card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be the case that no matter what you discard, the next person will pick it up and go out, particularly in the Phases that require you to lay down 8 or 9 cards. For example, you may be on Phase 6, but you only have 8 cards to your run of 9, and the other two cards are playable. You draw a playable card: all three cards are playable, so you have no choice but to discard one. In that case, it may help to explain during scoring that you had no choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:42:02.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:55:59.743" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm tempted to mark this question as subjective, but I suppose we can try and look at it from a more objective &quot;what makes magic work&quot; and how you define &quot;bad&quot; viewpoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes an expansion bad? I can think of two things: how it contributes to the limited environment (drafts, sealed deck tournaments) and how it contributes to the constructed environment (standard, extended, vintage, etc.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's take a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?page=1&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Homelands%22%5D&amp;amp;rarity=%20%5BC%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;look at commons&lt;/a&gt; to evaluate how limited for Homelands is like. Ugh. Overcosted, low power creatures, quite often with significant drawbacks or costs for minimal abilities. As just one example, compare &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Samite Alchemist&lt;/a&gt; to that staple of original Magic: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=132101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Samite Healer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Samite Healer was never that great to begin with. Two mana for a 1/1 body in white, tap to prevent one damage. So if he's blocking alone, it's like getting 1/2 body for two mana. Of course you could use the healer on other creatures for fancy combat tricks. Still, its impact is fairly minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Samite Alchemist, you have to pay two more mana for to get a 0/2 body, and to prevent 4 damage (not an insignificant amount, I concede) not only do you have to have two untapped plains to save it, but you also have to give up the use of that creature for next turn. If someone decides to use direct damage before your attack, to save it you must give up &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; turns of it not attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll leave it as an exercise for the reader to go through those commons and see how weak they all are. If I remember correctly, the only common to see significant constructed play was &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2909&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Serrated Arrows&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Uncommons and Rares were also similarly weak and overcosted. The uncommon filter lands were terrible. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%20%5B%22Homelands%22%5D&amp;amp;rating=%20%3E%5B4%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a list of Homeland cards on Gatherer rated 4 or better. Count 'em. Seven. Not sure how Didgeridoo snuck in there but I suppose it would work well with Changelings. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you judge an expansion as bad objectively? Well I suppose by the value of the cards, when it came out and over time. I remember when Homelands came out at the height of Magic's initial wave of popularity, and if I remember correctly, its print run quite outstripped demand. This also contributes to it being perceived as the worst expansion, as none of the cards really got to be worth much due to overprinting and low demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T17:55:59.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2012-01-24T17:57:15.920" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, let's clarify; Homelands was &quot;bad&quot; in that it was a &lt;em&gt;poorly designed set for the purposes of playing Magic&lt;/em&gt;.  This is observable via the incredibly small pool of Homelands cards that have ever seen play in any Constructed format, ever. It was so bad that at the time of Homeland's release when the first Pro Tour was happening, Wizards instituted a rule that each deck had to contain at least five cards from every Standard-legal set in their decks, just so that new the Homelands cards would be showcased in Pro Tour decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why it was bad, the general consensus is that it was a set designed from a plot and story perspective, with not enough care given to gameplay and mechanics.  A good history of the design is given in the reprinted article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Homelands: The Making of a Magic Expansion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, it just didn't do enough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From Mark Rosewater's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr97&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Make No Mistake&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It wasn't very innovative. It didn't introduce any strong mechanics. It didn't have good synergy. It wasn't particularly elegant. It didn't have many of the qualities that we now judge a set's design by. (To be fair, the set was very flavorful, so it wasn't without any design merit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mtgsalvation.com/articles/16153-why-kamigawa-is-the-worst-block-since-homelands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Why Kamigawa IS the Worst Block Since Homelands&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why was Homelands so bad? Mainly because the effects generated by the cards didn't impact the game very much and cost a lot of mana not to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="26388" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T15:05:18.843" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T15:05:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:05:55.070" Score="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;It helps to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?set=%5B%22Homelands%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;look at the whole set in Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; and think about what you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only counterspell is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMemory%20Lapse%5d&quot;&gt;Memory Lapse&lt;/a&gt; (this is actually better now than it was back then -- remember this was competing with Counterspell and Mana Drain).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no real card draw spells. There is one looting spell, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForget%5d&quot;&gt;Forget&lt;/a&gt;, and one search spell, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMerchant%20Scroll%5d&quot;&gt;Merchant Scroll&lt;/a&gt;; all the other &quot;draw a card&quot; cards are cantrips.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only straight-up removal spell &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2912&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;costs 5&lt;/a&gt; (beyond that, you've got the annoyingly-specific artifact-smashing Legends and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSerrated%20Arrows%5d&quot;&gt;Serrated Arrows&lt;/a&gt;, which is one of the few cards to escape Homelands and actually see competitive play).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The only sweepers are a couple of cards that do 1 damage to everything (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDry%20Spell%5d&quot;&gt;Dry Spell&lt;/a&gt;) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bApocalypse%20Chime%5d&quot;&gt;Apocalypse Chime&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's no real burn in the entire set. Direct damage is limited to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2995&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;overcosted pingers&lt;/a&gt; and cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWinter%20Sky%5d&quot;&gt;Winter Sky&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no mana-ramp cards in the set. Only &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2975&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Renewal&lt;/a&gt;, which is an awful &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCrop%20Rotation%5d&quot;&gt;Crop Rotation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a lots of cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2935&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Æther Storm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAysen%20Highway%5d&quot;&gt;Aysen Highway&lt;/a&gt; -- which do practically nothing (one notable exception: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAn-Zerrin%20Ruins%5d&quot;&gt;An-Zerrin Ruins&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its flagship cards are &lt;em&gt;Legends&lt;/em&gt;-style giant honkin' Legends that are practically unplayable against the competitive decks of its day.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically &lt;strong&gt;it's a set that's full of rather weak creatures and &lt;em&gt;almost nothing else&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Have fun turning &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpectral%20Bears%5d&quot;&gt;Spectral Bears&lt;/a&gt; sideways!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark Rosewater described Homelands &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr97&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this way&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It wasn't very innovative. It didn't introduce any strong mechanics.&#xA;  It didn't have good synergy. It wasn't particularly elegant. It didn't&#xA;  have many of the qualities that we now judge a set's design by. (To be&#xA;  fair, the set was very flavorful, so it wasn't without any design&#xA;  merit.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reputation was further cemented when Wizards tried to &quot;fix&quot; Homelands' unpopularity by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr134&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;adding stupid rules forcing you to use Homelands cards to the first Pro Tour&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I find surprising isn't so much that Homelands had all these problems but that the original Magic set (Alpha/Beta/Unlimited) largely &lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt;. Most of the design space of modern-day Magic can be traced directly to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?set=%5B%22Limited%20Edition%20Beta%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;about 300 cards in ABU&lt;/a&gt;: direct damage, removal, countermagic, bounce, fast mana, mana ramp, card draw, card filtering, tutors, sweepers, tokens, reanimation, X-spells, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=315&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;even morph&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Homelands was never really meant for stand-alone play; note the inclusion of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3020&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leeches&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, without any in-set poison cards. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/157&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;As a 1995 Duelist article explained&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Legends&lt;/em&gt; also sparked a few key card ideas; in response to &#xA;  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSerpent%20Generator%5d&quot;&gt;Serpent Generator&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPit%20Scorpion%5d&quot;&gt;Pit Scorpion&lt;/a&gt;, for example, &#xA;  Scott and Kyle added an anti-poison card to the set — one of &#xA;  what would turn out to be a series of cards meant to help &#xA;  counteract various deck strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, even if you use the core set or previous expansions will make up for them, I think the gaps in the set are still noteworthy as reflections of the designers' general unpreparedness and confusion: Why are there no real burn or removal in Homelands? Because the designers just couldn't seem to get their heads around the role of those things in a game of Magic. Instead you've got way too many &lt;strong&gt;narrow cards that try to answer strategies that were mostly too weak to need &quot;answers&quot; anyway&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, it has the feel of someone taking their &quot;kitchen table&quot; dynamic and turning it into a set. I think that's a reflection of the set being designed by folks who weren't really plugged into the ways Magic had developed as a strategic game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2019-03-01T16:06:45.643" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T16:06:45.643" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6319" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:28:08.927" Score="20" ViewCount="5598" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say my opponent is attacking with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194052&quot;&gt;Necropede&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220068&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Dragon&lt;/a&gt;. There are no other creatures on the battlefield. I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226560&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; on the Necropede. Is my opponent forced to choose a target for Necropede's triggered ability even if he or she does/will not plan to put a -1/-1 counter on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T19:32:42.950" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T19:32:42.950" Title="Am I forced to choose targets for &quot;may&quot; abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:33:22.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know about the others, but I can tell a little about the history of Go, one of the oldest board games in existence. There are various sources on Go history, but especially the early stages are widely different in each. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoHistory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source used here&lt;/a&gt; is generally well accepted among Go players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is certain that Go was invented in China (called weiqi there). According to legend, an ancient Chinese Emperor invented the game to enlighten his son, though it is unsure if it was Emperor Yao (2357-2255 BC) or Emperor Shun (2255-2205 BC). Other sources (Encyclopedia Britannica) state 2356 BC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some even claim Go was developed as a game in China perhaps 4000 years before present time, but this date has been questioned by many. Either way, Go, a game that resembles a war and involves terms such as &quot;territory&quot; and &quot;killing&quot; has always been a popular game to be played at the court, slowly spreading to the people from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oldest surviving reference is found in &quot;Analects&quot; by Confucius from the 6th century BC. Starting in the first century AD, there are texts specifically devoted to Go, namely &quot;Yi Zhi&quot; (Essence of Go) by Ban Gu. The earliest recorded games (&quot;Wu Diagrams&quot;) stem from around 250 AD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting 1050 AD, various books (for instance &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.figg.org/areafile/qjssp.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Qijing Shisanpian&lt;/a&gt;, the 13-Chapter Classic of Go), some still well known today, were created. Among them were problem collections as well as early works on joseki (patterns that are used frequently), some of those patterns are still in use by professional players today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go was imported at an unknown point in time (sometime before the early 7th century AD) to Japan, and gained popularity there as well as in China. About 600 years ago, Go became a widespread phenomenon with Go houses (elite study circles) becoming more and more important, later also gaining increased social and political relevance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To end this boring story and return to the question: Hnefatafl, from what I gather, is purely Western and was in no way influenced by Go. I also never encountered either Hnefatafl nor Western chess in any texts on early Go history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is worth noting that there is a chess variant very popular in China. It is called Xianqi and probably originated from the same ancestor, the old Indian Chaturanga, as &quot;Western Chess&quot;. It is actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://chineseculture.about.com/library/weekly/aa111497.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;said&lt;/a&gt; to be the most popular game in the world with half a billion players. However, it sprung into existence too late to interact with Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:33:22.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:51:59.890" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether or not the &quot;may&quot; ability is chosen by Necropede's controller, a target still must be chosen for Necropede's ability (assuming one exists).  Thus, Phantasmal Dragon will be chosen as a target and must be sacrificed, and Necropede's ability eventually fizzles.  See the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.5.&lt;/strong&gt; Some triggered abilities’ effects are optional (they contain “may,” as in “At the beginning of your upkeep, you may draw a card”). &lt;strong&gt;These abilities go on the stack when they trigger, regardless of whether their controller intends to exercise the ability’s option or not. The choice is made when the ability resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; Likewise, triggered abilities that have an effect “unless” something is true or a player chooses to do something will go on the stack normally; the “unless” part of the ability is dealt with when the ability resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Some spells and abilities require their controller to choose one or more targets for them. The targets are object(s), player(s), and/or zone(s) the spell or ability will affect. &lt;strong&gt;These targets are declared as part of the process of putting the spell or ability on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; The targets can’t be changed except by another spell or ability that explicitly says it can do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-01-24T19:13:01.790" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T19:13:01.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6317" CreationDate="2012-01-24T18:55:21.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, your opponent has to choose a target for the Necropede's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The controller of a &quot;may&quot; ability chooses whether or not to use the ability at the time that the ability resolves. However, the &lt;em&gt;targets&lt;/em&gt; of a may ability are chosen at the time the &quot;may&quot; ability is put on the stack, and choosing the targets for the Necropede's &quot;may&quot; ability will trigger the Phantasmal Dragon's sacrifice condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Comp rules reference forthcoming.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-01-24T18:55:21.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6322" CreationDate="2012-01-24T19:10:37.440" Score="5" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Hnefatafl (with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bowdoin.edu/~dfrancis/viking/vikingApp/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;) the aim of the white player is to move their king to one of the corner squares. How do I know when it's safe to move the king? Are there 'signs', for example, the other player not having many pieces, or those pieces to mostly be on one side of the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:47:21.600" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T18:47:21.600" Title="How early should I move my king in Hnefatafl?" Tags="|hnefatafl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6321" CreationDate="2012-01-24T23:09:11.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience (albeit with a slightly different tafl variant), a key part of white's strategy is maintaining the ability to play towards any of the corner squares. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The throne square isn't intrinsically all that much safer than any other square on the board. Initially, keeping your king near the center makes it easier to take advantage of momentary gaps in unexpected places. Moving your king is mostly about maintaining this sort of flexibility -- if there are a lot of enmeshed pieces near the center, for instance, running your king off to one side might open up the ability to both play towards the two nearest corners &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; cut around the jam to get to one of the far ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T15:43:42.873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T15:43:42.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5563" CreationDate="2012-01-24T23:26:38.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very much a begginer (around 17K currently), but I have benefitted from several teaching games, so after reading maftructs answer written by someone who clearly has experience teaching I thought it might be beneficial to highlight what I find most helpful in people playing teaching games with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing them on a computer is very useful for a teaching game.  It will let you go back and forth to different points in the game to explore variations.  While you can certainly do this with a hand written kifu (or simply through memory for a strong player with a good memory), being able to go back and see how the board was exactly at that point is extremely helpful for weaker players with bad memories.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It clearly depends on the teacher and student, but in contrast to mafutrct, I have always finished every teaching game.  I do not resign even after clearly hopeless.  Finishing the game provides more fodder for the review and more opportunities to see the patterns in the mid and end games that are not only from a stronger player, but a stronger player focused on highlighting what I need to see.  I always resign when hopeless against a peer or in a non-teaching game where I got a handicap, but I find it helpful to finish games that are focused on teaching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While I have certainly gotten good advice and had significant things highlighted during the game, I prefer for most discussion after the game.  During the game, I am focused on playing.  Once I make a move, good or bad, I am focused on how the other player will respond and my next move.  Highlighting something then disrupts that thought and makes me go back.  Unless you intend for me to actually take back the move (or end the game there and begin the review) I prefer to discuss it afterwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, I am very much a begginer and can only offer my thoughts from the student's side, so take everything with a grain a of salt and feel free to tell me if I am wrong.  But I thought it would be useful bookend to the answers from strong players who are doing teaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastEditorUserId="2198" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T15:50:40.863" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T15:50:40.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6325" CreationDate="2012-01-25T04:22:05.900" Score="7" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Influence action allows a player to move up to two Influence Discs to a hex that is &quot;adjacent to a hex where you have a disc or a Ship.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a case where the first Influence Disc is moved to an adjacent sector, it is possible to move the second Influence Disc to a hex that is only adjacent to the hex just claimed?  Or must both sectors be adjacent to hexes controlled at the beginning of the Influence action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T18:32:59.063" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T18:32:59.063" Title="When using the Influence action, can you influence a hex adjacent only to the newly claimed hex?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6324" CreationDate="2012-01-25T09:45:00.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've read and understood you are allowed to move it to a hex adjacent hex to the hex just claimed. For instance it would be perfectly legal to do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start of influence action ( | is a partial wormhole and |   | is an empty hex)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;| A || B || C ||   ||   |&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the first influence disc:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;| A ||   || C || B ||   |&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the second influence disc:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;|   ||   || C || B || A |&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that was an understandable schematic :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T09:45:00.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6326" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-25T15:13:28.010" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T15:13:28.010" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T15:13:28.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6327" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-25T15:13:28.010" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T15:13:28.010" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T15:13:28.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2012-01-25T15:18:57.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is true that the play is largely determined by  information gleaned from bidding, high cards, leading, and the trump suit, there is one aspect of bridge where precisely tracking every card is very helpful: defensive signaling. As &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Signal_%28bridge%29&quot;&gt;Wikipedia describes&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;partners defending against a contract may play particular cards in a manner which gives a signal or coded meaning to guide their subsequent card play; also referred to as carding.&quot; Obviously these signals will only work if the partners are tracking cards precisely, including their sequence. And this goes for the offense too so they can gain information as to where cards are placed among the defenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common example where remembering a low discard is vital is the high low signal indicating a doubleton, and thus a desire for partner to lead back that suit a third time if trumps have not yet been completely pulled. I've typically played that this can be with a first card followed by a second lower card, even a 3-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common example is leading the fourth highest card from longest and strongest when defending a no trump contract. In this case, it is helpful to subsequently remember every card played in that suit as this often makes it possible to infer exactly which cards are held by the opponents in this suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could reasonably argue that you can get by just remembering the first card played by the first and third seats (in addition to tracking high cards and trumps), and that will probably get you by for the defensive signals typically applied by beginning to intermediate players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you asked if &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; players memorize all cards. I'm not sure how good you mean but at the higher levels of play many forms of defensive signaling are used. The more defensive signals you use, the more it requires remembering not only exactly which cards have already been played, but the exact sequence in which they were played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T15:18:57.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6331" CreationDate="2012-01-25T15:23:21.893" Score="5" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently came into several large collections of Magic cards that I am looking through for trade stock, obviously cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202437&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; tend to be good trade stock even though they are common; however, what is a good strategy for going through the rest of the cards? Are their certain abilities or creature types that I should look for or is it best to just look for what is still legal in Standard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2371" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T18:39:51.320" Title="What is a good strategy for selecting commons and uncommons for trade folders?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-25T15:43:59.893" Score="9" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's a good way to to go about finding human bridge players (kids or adults) that is less intense than what you find at duplicate bridge clubs, but more competitive and learning oriented than playing rubber bridge with friends once every few months?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I've played (and enjoyed the challenge/competitiveness of) duplicate bridge at clubs in the past, my 6-year old bridge-loving son is nowhere near the level of bidding, play, or (especially) maturity where a club would be appropriate. The etiquette alone would prove too stifling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also met several people throughout my life with a desire to play bridge at a level of play that was less intense than that found at a typical U.S. duplicate bridge club, but more intense and learning oriented than what you can get from casual play with friends a few times per year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in answers that involve 4 people (kids, adults, or some mix of both) physically getting together. I already know about bridge software and online bridge options and while we use bridge software some as a learning tool, that's not what I'm after with this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-25T20:28:15.417" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:34:02.693" Title="How do you find not-quite-club level human opponents to regularly play bridge with?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6329" CreationDate="2012-01-25T16:21:13.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really three distinct things you're looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playability in Standard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playability in Vintage/Legacy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playability in EDH/Commander and other popular variants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two are actually fairly easy to gauge; the more playable a card is, the higher its price is (typically).  Use something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic.TCGPlayer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/&lt;/a&gt;, or another pricing site to look up your cards and see if they're of value.  Alternatively, you could look up lists for the most playable (read: highest value) common/uncommon cards in those formats and look for those cards specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third option is a little more difficult; since EDH decks are built with 100 cards with no more than 1 of any given card (besides basic lands), lots of commons and uncommons are more popular and playable than in Vintage/Legacy.  I'd recommend looking up lists of common and uncommon EDH staples and seeing what cards you might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing you're looking for really in any card is the effect-to-mana-cost ratio.  Cards like Swords to Plowshares, Lightning Bolt, Mana Leak, Terminate, Sensei's Divining Top - things that are cheap with powerful effects are really what see play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T15:00:58.710" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T15:00:58.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6329" CreationDate="2012-01-25T16:50:19.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on who you're trading with routinely. Generally speaking, if you want to move your trade stuff, you want to match your binder to both the interests and budget of the folks you're trading with. Legacy staples won't move very quickly with a crowd where everyone plays Standard, for instance; nor will $20 tournament cards with a crowd that mostly trades &quot;dollar rares&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use two rules of thumb for common and uncommon cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Is this played competitively?&quot; That's why a simple uncommon like Go for the Throat is $1.50 now ($6.00 for the alternate-art FNM card). Generally, tournament staples for Standard are the most common and easiest to move, though it may vary in your local area (some places are noted Legacy hotspots, for instance).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Is this an obscure card with an interesting ability that someone might want for casual play?&quot; The idea here is to put up the cards that'll interest folks who like discard decks, token decks, tribal decks, &amp;amp;c. These cards aren't actually worth a lot, but they make it easier to balance out a trade. They also encourage casual-leaning players to trade with you, since they'll think of you as a source of fun cards they can pick up easily rather than a guy with a binder full of terribly overpriced stuff. I like trading with casual players because they're less likely to be obsessed with gouging you for &quot;value&quot; any time you want a card from them. To showcase these a bit, I generally put thematically-related cards together: Words of Waste and Geth's Grimoire (not uncommons, I know) look so much cooler next to each other, for instance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T16:50:19.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6334" CreationDate="2012-01-25T18:16:56.673" Score="10" ViewCount="15902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today at work, I played my first game in almost 10 years using a deck from another player. He was playing a deck made of creatures that facilitate life points regain. At one point, using 3 different cards, he was able to exploit a loophole that would allow him to get zillions of life points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember that around the time of 3rd edition loopholes were limited to the &quot;only once&quot; rule, because it wouldn't make sense to abuse a loophole. MTG is so large, it's impossible not to find a loophole between cards, and there are tons of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the big question, does that &quot;only once&quot; rule for loopholes still stand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2379" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:34:10.410" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T23:37:09.967" Title="Is it valid to exploit infinite loopholes in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2012-01-25T18:30:18.350" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In competitive play, definitely and without a doubt.  Something that looks like a loophole is probably just a chance to create a good combo deck and you should use it ruthlessly.  Even if it was truly an error in the rules (or miscalculation about how powerful something should be) it will be corrected by errata later, but until then use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual play, you may wish to at least give the other player a heads up that you are using a combo deck (though not necessarily what combo!).  Some casual players do not like playing against combo decks.  Then again, many casual players don't like playing against tournament quality aggro decks and it is good form to at least warn them if you are using anything close to tournament quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T14:31:01.437" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T14:31:01.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2012-01-25T19:51:12.430" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am not aware such a rule ever existed - infinity combos have been around from the very beginning of MTG.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are probably referring to is this: if there is a (potential) &lt;strong&gt;infinite loop that does not change the game state&lt;/strong&gt;, then this loop may only be performed once, if the involved players have a choice about it. Since your opponent clearly changed the game state (after each loop, he has more life than before), he may perform the loop as often as he wants. See the rule and an example below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the current rules, all this is covered in this section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;721&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Taking Shortcuts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.1. When playing a game, players typically make use of mutually understood shortcuts rather than explicitly identifying each game choice (either taking an action or passing priority) a player makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.1a The rules for taking shortcuts are largely informal. As long as each player in the game understands the intent of each other player, any shortcut system they use is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.1b Occasionally the game gets into a state in which a set of actions could be repeated indefinitely (thus creating a “loop”). In that case, the shortcut rules can be used to determine how many times those actions are repeated without having to actually perform them, and how the loop is broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.1c Tournaments use a modified version of the rules governing shortcuts and loops. These rules are covered in the Magic: The Gathering Tournament Rules (found at WPN.Wizards.com/en/resources/rules-documents). Whenever the Tournament Rules contradict these rules during a tournament, the Tournament Rules take precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.2. Taking a shortcut follows the following procedure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.2a At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a non-repetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns. It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.2b Each other player, in turn order starting after the player who suggested the shortcut, may either accept the proposed sequence, or shorten it by naming a place where they will make a game choice that’s different than what’s been proposed. (The player doesn’t need to specify at this time what the new choice will be.) This place becomes the new ending point of the proposed sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.2c Once the last player has either accepted or shortened the shortcut proposal, the shortcut is taken. The game advances to the last proposed ending point, with all game choices contained in the shortcut proposal having been taken. If the shortcut was shortened from the original proposal, the player who now has priority must make a different game choice than what was originally proposed for that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens, the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&#xA;  721.4. If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw. (See rules 104.4b and 104.4f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&#xA;  Example: A player controls Seal of Cleansing, an enchantment that reads, “Sacrifice Seal of Cleansing: Destroy target artifact or enchantment.” A mandatory loop that involves an artifact begins. The player is not forced to sacrifice Seal of Cleansing to destroy the artifact and end the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;721.6. If a loop contains an effect that says “[A] unless [B],” where [A] and [B] are each actions, no player can be forced to perform [B] to break the loop. If no player chooses to perform [B], the loop will continue as though [A] were mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general answer to your &quot;loopholes&quot; remark:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take a radical stance and say &quot;There are no loopholes in M:TG&quot;. Players are not required to guess the intention of the game designers, they are only required to follow the rules of the game. If the rules allow something like the &quot;white Ball Lightning&quot;, something which was clearly not the intention in the design of Waylay, then there's nothing a judge could do about it. If the game designers consider something a loop hole, then the only things they can do is to give the card an erratum, restrict its tournament legality, or change the rules. Until either happens, players have free reign, and it's purely a question of sportsmanship and/or house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T20:20:44.067" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T20:20:44.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6338" CreationDate="2012-01-25T19:57:18.397" Score="18" ViewCount="2680" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Go board has two playing surfaces, one big and the other small. As a Go beginner, I have been playing on the reduced size board. I assume this is recommended because it makes games shorter, and there is less to keep track of. But as a beginner, I'm having trouble seeing what benefits playing on a larger board might bring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would I want to play on a bigger board? How does the game change? Or another way of putting this - why doesn't everyone play on the smaller board size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:13:04.807" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T22:56:34.723" Title="How does the full-size board change the game of Go?" Tags="|go|board-size|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2012-01-25T20:35:52.527" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The small board focuses on close fighting. You're right; it is recommended for beginners for developing fighting skill and tactics, but the strategy component is lacking--at least when compared to a 19x19 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big board is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; just like playing 4 small board games next to each other. Through ladders and potential escape routes, the stones on one side of the board interact with the stones on the other side. When you start playing on big boards this is a very hard part of the transition because on a 9x9 or even 13x13 board you don't have to keep thinking about stones that seem to be far away. This is related to the concept of &quot;influence&quot;, which is largely absent on smaller boards, but is of great strategic importance on the bigger board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Go teacher in my area likes to say that what makes professional Go games really interesting is the trades. You see professionals let massive groups die yet come out ahead, because in so doing they gain forcing moves that make up for it elsewhere. A popular example is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?LeeSedolHongChangSikLadderGame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yi Sedol ladder game&lt;/a&gt;. These sorts of trades are nearly impossible on a small board, and the game is much more exciting with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, on a big board Go&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is more complex, which many would argue means more interesting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uses both tactics and strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for an amateur, allows for more mistakes. You can mess up in one area, but still come back, playing better elsewhere and using leftover &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Aji&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;aji&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allows for more varied games. There are many different opening styles on a full size board, and they will lead to games that feel very different.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is more fun!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T16:01:27.233" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T16:01:27.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2012-01-25T21:27:11.103" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To use a metaphor, what's the difference between a barroom brawl and a full-scale war?  The brawl is faster and just as decisive at the end, but if you rush the front lines of an opposing army swinging a barstool, you'll probably not get very far.  You need to rely on your commanders and your fellow soldiers to get you close enough that your barstool will actually connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, a 9x9 game is tactical whereas a 19x19 game is strategic.  Consider the following Go proverb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The third line is for territory, the fourth line is for influence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the fundamental difference between a high move (fourth line or higher) and a low move (third line or lower).  Territory is valuable for obvious reasons: that's where you get your score from.  Influence is also valuable, but for less obvious reasons: you use influence to fight and either secure more territory, or destroy your opponent's territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, on a 9x9 board, the ratio between influence and territory is heavily biased towards the territory side; almost the entire board is on the third line or lower, and the only space above the fourth line is the center point.  This makes a game on the smaller board faster, but focuses very much on close-range tactics rather than wide-scale strategy.  Usually it's one quick but brutal fight which ultimately determines the winner of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 19x19 board, however, roughly half the board is &quot;territory&quot; and half the board is &quot;influence&quot;.  Rather than one short but violent fight, the game focuses just as much on deploying your troops and fortifying your defenses.  You'll often end up with a series of skirmishes, none of which necessarily decide the game on their own.  You may lose a battle, or even many battles, yet you can still win the war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the larger board, playing for influence is can be just as important as playing for territory; very often a move that secures territory for yourself will allow the opponent to gain influence, and vice versa.  Whether you decide to play a territory-heavy or an influence-oriented style, understanding this balance becomes essential to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This subtlety is almost entirely missing on a 9x9 board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now whether you prefer to while away your idle hours with the occasional drunken fistfight, or you'd rather start up World War III, that's very much up to you.  At my local go club, it is not uncommon to see people playing nothing but 9x9 games all day long, and other people breaking out the 19x19 board and nothing else.  Often players will switch between the two boards from game to game.  Both board sizes allow for enjoyable and viable games, but even with the exact same rules the games will be completely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-25T21:27:11.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2012-01-26T05:27:15.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finding an good 8 card major suit fit should be your first priority. Game contracts in the Major suits require fewer tricks than a minor and offer more possibilities of making tricks than No trump.Therefore, after a minor suit opening bid, most good players explore for an 8 card major fit by bidding four card suits up the line on the one level hoping to find a compliment four card holding in their partners hand. If partner also holds 4 cards in the same major he will raise to the appropriate High card point level for his hand and this will become the trump suit. Therefore on the hand above you should bid 1h promising 4 hearts and 6 or more high card points. Negative doubles are an important tool that help to help find the 8 card major fit when the opponents overcall. Negative doubles allow you to show four card suits when the opponents overcall bypasses a the card suit that you wanted to bid at the low one level. When the opponents overcall a one club bid with a one diamond call a negative double allows responder to show both majors with one call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2382" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T05:27:15.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4251" CreationDate="2012-01-26T05:34:53.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By all means take 1 minute to study the hand.  Often this minor delay actually speeds up the play later in the hand and allows an early claim.  If you count your hand review the bidding add up points and imagine a detailed &quot;target distribution&quot; for the opponent's hand you know the most about the last five tricks of the hand will go in a flash. Instead of grumbling about your slow play you can grumble back at them when they cant decide what to discard on the last few tricks. (No not really but sometimes i would like to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2382" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T05:34:53.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6330" CreationDate="2012-01-26T12:34:15.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question intrigues me because I'm an oddity--a purely sociable bridge player who has written about bridge history and I've done a lot of THINKING about bridge as popular culture--where it is, where it's going, what it needs to do if it is ever to become the mass fad it once was.  My experience writing a book about the pop culture of sociable bridge, and a blogezine as well (http://bridgetable.net), tells me you're not alone. You have lots of kindred spirits out there. There's much dissatisfaction with the bridge Establishment and today's bridge world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the only answer is YOU (with others) organizing something (via the internet and Meet Up) between the world of sociable players (like me) who have no organization whatever AND the ACBL world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Launch a website, come up with a set of standards/rules for your ideal way of playing duplicate bridge that would be good for your young son as well, give it a catchy name, and start and promote to people who agree with you. Who knows, you could be the creator of something new in bridge that goes national at some point. Who knows? Maybe someone else with feelings like you has already launched a website to reach others like you? &lt;a href=&quot;http://bridgetable.net/issue22/221-need-populist-bridge-tournament-2-continued/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read again about Ely Culbertson&lt;/a&gt;--he told the bridge Estabishment to go to hell and just promoted bridge the way he knew it would work rather than go along with the Establishment. He's my hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet if you Googled &quot;How to start a national organization via the internet&quot; you'd find all kinds of instructions. Come to think of it--I should do that myself for MY &quot;cause&quot; too! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create a few Google Alerts of selected key words and phrases and see what you find. That's how I find content for my blog, I have Google Alerts for &quot;play bridge&quot; and &quot;nonagenarian&quot; (because part 4 of my blog is looking for bridge-playing 90-plussers, and do I ever find them!!) That's how I found you in fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll bet a Google Alert for &quot;play duplicate bridge&quot; and &quot;play duplicate bridge without masters points&quot; or even the words you used in your question &quot;play less intense duplicate bridge&quot; -- do that for a month and see what you come up with. Can create as many Google Alerts as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My progress with my cause (that sociable bridge survive after the bridge-playing old ladies like me (91) are dead and gone) goes slowly. BUT I'm OLD and TECH ILLITERATE (have to have a Virtual Assistant or I could never do a blog) while YOU are YOUNG and like most of the young into twittering and facebook and all that stuff I loathe doing. Even so, got a couple of very good breaks these past two weeks that may make a huge difference eventually in my subscriber list. Anyway, what I do is one of my bucket list causes and makes life interesting for a nonagenarian. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2385" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-01-26T14:59:09.347" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T14:59:09.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5282" CreationDate="2012-01-26T15:11:12.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Double&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double would suggest that you have at least 6 points and that you have at least 4 of the unbid major suit (hearts). I think this is the best bid as it accurately describes your hand. Now that your partner has this information he can decide how best to proceed. If your partner has hearts he can bid them, if he has a strong club suit he can rebid that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 10+ points you could still double, but it's often preferable to bid something that shows the extra strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2 Clubs&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would normally need 4 clubs to bid this, so this is not a good bid if you only have 3 of them. It happened to work out OK for you on this occasion, but you could easily have ended up in 3 clubs (possibly doubled). There's obviously less risk with this kind of bid when non-vulnerable, but even then it's very unlikely that this is your best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pass&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't a particularly poor bid, but double is better. If you'd passed it's quite likely your opponents would have ended up in 1 spade which presumably they would have made. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd only had 6 points and were vulnerable you might prefer this over doubling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T11:50:50.333" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T11:50:50.333" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2012-01-26T17:24:40.640" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Building mana bases is a mix of art and science. Fundamentally, mana&#xA;is the biggest resource constraint in a Magic deck, so your land&#xA;choices are just as important as your spell choices during deck&#xA;design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deckbuilding isn't just about picking spells for your deck, &#xA;but also about setting up &lt;em&gt;lines of play&lt;/em&gt;. As such, your &#xA;mana base isn't just about &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; but about &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Quick and dirty basic land distribution&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm pressed for time (e.g. in Limited) or just throwing together a &#xA;rough draft of a deck, this is my approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Count mana symbols, not cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;A card costing 2WWW has the same converted mana cost (5) as a card costing&#xA;4W, but you'll need to play many more white mana sources to be able to&#xA;cast the 2WWW card reliably. Counting colored mana symbols in cards &#xA;is a way to account for this.&#xA;Some online deckbuilding tools (e.g. TappedOut) do this by default.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Color screw&quot; is awful and you should take pains to avoid it. &#xA;Therefore, if you have uneven color requirements, &lt;strong&gt;make the mana base a bit&#xA;less skewed than the color distribution of your spells&lt;/strong&gt;. For example,&#xA;if you're running 70-30 red/white, your might do 60-40&#xA;mountains/plains. Most costs have a generic component, so having a &#xA;few lands of your &quot;secondary&quot; color on the field shouldn't significantly slow down&#xA;your &quot;main&quot;-color spells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By the time you get to playing your six-drops,&#xA;you'll have seen something like a quarter of your deck; in contrast,&#xA;you've got at most 8 cards when it's time to make your first-turn&#xA;play. &lt;strong&gt;If you rely on a certain color heavily in the early game, play more&#xA;of the matching lands to support it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic lands will only get you so far&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a deck that wants to play Grand Abolisher (WW) on turn 2 and &#xA;Chandra's Phoenix (1RR) on turn 3, no combination of basic lands is going &#xA;to allow that.&#xA;You can play cards like Rampant Growth and Evolving Wilds for &quot;color fixing&quot;, &#xA;but the larger problem here is a lack of &quot;color depth&quot; -- the ability to make &#xA;different combinations of colors with the same couple of mana sources.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Building a multi-color deck using only basic lands limits your ability to &#xA;reliably make use of cards with heavy color commitments&lt;/strong&gt;, which are often &#xA;some of the strongest effects for their CMC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T00:32:00.250" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T00:32:00.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6347" CreationDate="2012-01-26T21:09:12.883" Score="36" ViewCount="52792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Experienced Settlers of Catan players know that the answer to this question will vary based on many board setup factors such as resource productivity, 2:1 ports, whether you can corner the market for one resource and thus trade for the resource you lack, etc. For the purposes of this question, let's exclude such factors, and consider the middle case where there are no obvious 2:1 port setups, nobody can corner a market, and the distribution of production is a middling 10 dots each for the brick and ore, 13 dots each for wood and grain, and 12 dots for sheep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the 5 resources in Settlers of Catan is most important? Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T20:20:44.713" Title="Which of the 5 resources in Settlers of Catan (base version) is most important? Why?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6345" CreationDate="2012-01-26T21:53:15.667" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The value of resources depends on the stage of the game, and your strategy. A very typical strategy is to expand early until you have 3 or 4 settlements, and then focus on upgrading to cities while continuing to expand only when convenient. If this is your goal, brick and wood will be important in the beginning, and ore important in the late game, with wool and wheat somewhere in between throughout. On the other hand, it's possible to play a strong game without much emphasis on expansion, by focusing instead on cities and development cards, and only expanding when convenient. The most important things are to &lt;strong&gt;have a strategy&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;make choices consistent with your strategy&lt;/strong&gt;, however there is no &quot;best strategy&quot; and thus no &quot;best resource&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-26T21:53:15.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6345" CreationDate="2012-01-26T22:43:15.803" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will depend tremendously on the situation, but it's worth learning some generalities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are playing with just the base set:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brick and wood are completely identical as everything that needs one wood also needs one brick (roads and settlements).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat is completely superior to wool/sheep as it is also needed for cities in addition to everything wool is needed for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wheat and Ore are about tied as you need 1 wheat and no ore for a settlement, and 3 ore and 2 wheat for a city. My experience is that wheat is slightly better as the ability to continue building settlements is usually worthy a slightly diminished city building capacity caused by an increase in wheat and decrease in your ore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who has played 4+ games of Settlers knows that you need a variety of resources to win, although there are widely differing ways to get them, so there's no such thing as 'the best' resource as the distribution is so situational to the island layout, what other players have, what development cards and resources you have, and what everybody needs. However, &lt;strong&gt;wheat is essential to virtually any strategy, ore is needed for a city/development card strategy, wood and brick are necessary in at least small amounts for any expansion via new settlements and roads, and wool is overall probably least useful.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, until nobody goes for  wool but you, making you the one who can build settlements faster and extort ridiculous prices from your adversaries for it until you take an early 3 point lead for a decisive win. As I said, it's all relative. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2021-05-30T20:20:44.713" LastActivityDate="2021-05-30T20:20:44.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6329" CreationDate="2012-01-26T23:35:10.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a nicely formatted list of staples for EDH:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/21014577/EDH_Format_Staples_%42NEW%42&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/21014577/EDH_Format_Staples_%42NEW%42&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many of the cards on that list are rare there are plenty of commons and uncommons to look out for.  Due to the popularity of EDH/Commander these staple are in high demand and are well worth trading.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T04:01:43.763" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T04:01:43.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6350" CreationDate="2012-01-27T03:11:03.980" Score="42" ViewCount="5263" Body="&lt;p&gt;While going through the Gatherer database I noticed that the Alpha version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=19&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icy Manipulator&lt;/a&gt; says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}: You may tap any land, creature, or artifact in play on either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;whereas the Tenth Edition of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=129601&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icy Manipulator&lt;/a&gt; says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}, {T}: Tap target artifact, creature, or land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has me wondering, does the newer Tenth Edition card text retroactively apply to the Alpha card or does the Alpha text still apply when that card is in play? In other words, if I were to play the Alpha version, would I play by its rules, or the newer rules on the Tenth Edition card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2371" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T23:14:39.910" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T23:14:39.910" Title="Does newer card text on a Magic: The Gathering card override the old wording?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6349" CreationDate="2012-01-27T04:39:30.957" Score="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;All versions of a card are considered to be equivalent and are played with the same text: this text is known as the Oracle wording of the card.  From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle(TM) card reference when determining a card's wording. A card's Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card&#xA;  database at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a card's wording isn't always the most recent text on a card!  There are a handful of cards that have errata of one form or another - for instance, Time Vault's Oracle text has changed numerous times, and it's still different in a few small ways from the card as printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as Icy Manipulator specifically goes, note that the wording on the Alpha (and Beta) versions isn't as different from the 10th Edition version as you might think; while neither uses the tap symbol, they both have the type 'Mono Artifact' which by the rules of the time meant that they were tapped as part of their usage (and thus could only be used once in a turn).  Again, quoting from the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mono Artifact (Obsolete) An obsolete term that appeared on the type&#xA;  line of artifacts with activated abilities that caused the artifact to&#xA;  become tapped as a cost. Cards printed with this text have received&#xA;  errata in the Oracle card reference to simply say &quot;Artifact,&quot; and&#xA;  those abilities now include the tap symbol in their costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2012-01-27T16:46:36.627" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T16:46:36.627" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5091" CreationDate="2012-01-27T14:11:40.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played the &quot;normal&quot; version of Killer Bunnies Quest (i.e. Blue and Yellow decks) and also the Remix version. I found the normal version can be a bit slow mainly due to a lack of Bunnies - there are 25 Bunnies out of about 160 cards so if you don't have a Bunny you can be waiting a long time to pick one up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the normal version I'm planning on trying the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Everyone Starts With A Bunny&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who wasn't dealt a Bunny at the start can go through the draw deck until they find a Bunny and discard one of the cards they were dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is suggested in the rules for the first time you play, but I see no reason not to do it every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;You Can Buy Dead Bunnies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Bunnies die put them in a separate pile. Dead Bunny cards can be bought for 10 dolla. The Bunny card is placed in your hand and has to put through the run as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is in the Remix version (and I think it's in one of the later expansion decks too), it seems to speed things up considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Free Money&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give everyone some tokens (I'm going to use Monopoly money) at the start that represent dolla, these tokens act exactly the same as normal money. I'm going to try giving everyone 10 dolla, that's enough to buy a Bunny or a Carrot and it's usually enough to feed a Bunny.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slight variation on this would be for everyone to get some free money at the start of their go instead, I'd suggest 1 or 2 dolla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-01-27T14:11:40.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6353" CreationDate="2012-01-28T03:32:44.957" Score="18" ViewCount="6064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reflecting on this concept and trying to come up with a concise answer: Why do different levels of card rarity exist in MtG? In order for this concept of different numbers of different cards existing to be beneficial to MtG, it has to do one of a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it easier to build decks. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the game more strategic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the game more replayable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what I've come up with so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first one is probably most relevant. If a Llanowar Elf was just as common as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220090&quot;&gt;Shpinx of Uthuun&lt;/a&gt;, and both were just as common as everything else, it wouldn't make any sense because the number of decks that need Llanowars and the amount of Llanowars in each deck that uses them is much greater.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To some degree, it makes the game more replayable, in that it takes longer to see all of the cards because some of them aren't as common, but I don't really consider this a good reason in itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rares tend to be more powerful than other cards, and this seems to work exactly backwards from how it should. If tons of people want a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214050&quot;&gt;Thrun, the last troll&lt;/a&gt; in their decks because it's really powerful, shouldn't it be common so the people with rares don't have an advantage over the people who don't? If you're going to make some cards weaker than others, why not make more of the good ones and not the bad ones? Making powerful cards more expensive does not improve the overall game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are these points somewhat valid? How does some cards being produced in smaller number make Magic a better game? How would the game change for the better or worse if all cards were equally rare?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Saying that having certain cards be rarer than others makes the game better because of the 'ooooh shiny!' factor when you do get one does nothing to make deck building and playing the game more interesting or fun. I also know that it makes Wizards and card shops tons of money, but I do not want to focus on money in the creator's pockets being the reason for their existence. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T14:14:29.983" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T15:08:14.740" Title="Why do cards have different rarity levels in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|card-rarity|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-01-28T05:00:17.730" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reasons for rarity are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To allow for complex cards without overwhelming new players.&lt;/strong&gt; Rich interactions are part of what make Magic great, but the sheer volume of rules can be overwhelming. By limiting complex cards to uncommon, rare and mythic, it reduces the amount that new players need to worry about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To allow for interesting limited environments as well as powerful cards for constructed.&lt;/strong&gt; By putting limited bombs at rare or even mythic rare, it reduces the effect they have on limited format games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To sell cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="92" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T02:32:40.213" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T02:32:40.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6360" CreationDate="2012-01-28T06:22:35.813" Score="8" ViewCount="6106" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the newer form of Mission Risk (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Risk_2003.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;2003-edition rulebook&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;), where each player has 4 mission cards of varying difficulty, there are a number of ambiguities that are not covered by the manual. After an exhausting (if not exhaustive) search of the intertubes for an official stance on mission objectives (particularly relationships between similar missions), I have landed here to seek advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Overlapping objectives&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is when different mission cards can be fulfilled (in part or in full) from actions taken to complete other missions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was brought to a head in my last game, where I had the following 3 missions: &quot;Conquer 4 territories&quot;, &quot;Conquer 1 territory on 4 continents&quot; and &quot;Take 1 territory from each opponent&quot;. Do these objectives need to be completed independently, or can a single conquest count towards each mission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was tempted to say that they were, but, in another recent game, I had &quot;Control 2 continents&quot; and &quot;Control 3 continents&quot;. If treated the same as the first example, that's nearly the entire map and therefore way more difficult than almost every other mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update (2012-01-30):&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Using the 3 Mission Cards from the first paragraph, let us say that in my opening turn I manage to conquer 4 territories on different continents, all owned by different players. This fulfils the objectives of each Mission Card. Am I entitled play all 3 Mission Cards over the next 3 turns?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a distinction between the two types of mission other than their relative difficulty, and if that is the only distinction then how is the line drawn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sparse reinforcements&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in a recent game, I had the mission &quot;Gain 18 reinforcements this turn&quot; (played after gaining reinforcements). I gamely attempted to suggest it might be possible to play this mission after eliminating another player and playing the captured territory cards for further reinforcements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My argument went that it satisfied both criteria of being &quot;after gaining reinforcements&quot; and occurring within &quot;this turn&quot; as specified by the mission description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody else agreed and I accepted that it was a stretch, but I'm keen to hear thoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Eliminated players&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody other than me tried to claim that a player eliminated that turn (by them) should count for the purposes of the &quot;Have twice as many territories as any 1 enemy&quot;. This was swiftly rebuffed. &lt;strong&gt;Edit: We assume an implied equal-to-or-greater-than for all quantity-based missions, so the mission in question would, for practical purposes, read &quot;Have &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; twice as many...&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, any general rule or standard that could be consistently applied to any combination of overlapping/ambiguous mission combinations would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2398" LastEditorUserId="2398" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T05:23:05.477" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T03:59:02.823" Title="Ambiguous mission objectives and scenarios" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-01-28T06:38:33.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you said you don't want to focus on money in the creators' pockets, but the fact is, that is the reason. It's a simple consequence of the law of supply and demand: if you want to sell a lot of your product, you increase the demand and decrease the supply. For Magic cards, that means you make powerful cards (high demand) in limited numbers (low supply). All the changes to rarity levels over the years, including mythic rares, foil cards, and planeswalkers, are meant to either increase the power level or decrease the numbers of these rare cards. That in turn entices people to buy more booster packs in hopes of opening a powerful and exciting card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other reasons that Ben mentioned do also play a role in motivating the rarity distribution, but it's a minor one. In everything I've read from Wizards over the years, their primary motivation in designing the game as they do has always been to sell cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T06:38:33.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-01-28T07:37:25.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @DavidZaslavsky and I are on the same page. What is Magic? It's not a board game, it's not just a card game, it's a &lt;strong&gt;collectible&lt;/strong&gt; card game. And that's fine, it is what it is. If WotC printed cards on demand a charged $1 each, most of the &quot;commons&quot; wouldn't exist because there'd be no demand for them, so they'd probably never be created in the first place. And those commons do add to the game: they add lots of flavor in each block, and sometimes they're  better than R&amp;amp;D predicts. The meta-game, tournaments, etc., would be barely recognizable. I don't play Magic because of the costs--the last booster I bought was either Alliances or Mirage. If things were equally costed people like me would probably still play. But without the costs, there's no way WotC could justify all the R&amp;amp;D they do. The sheer number of cards is amazing, and it makes Magic what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem like the game would be healthier if any ridiculously expensive cards were either banned or re-printed until the supply was enough to keep the price reasonable. I can't think of any justification for &quot;mythic rares&quot; other than making buying packs more like buying lotto tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T07:37:25.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-01-28T07:56:25.790" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ben covered the general reasons pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rarity drives sales.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rarity defines the Limited format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simple commons are newbie-friendly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like there's a subtext to your post, though: the rarity model drives up the cost of participation in Magic as a hobby -- how can this actually be anything but detrimental to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is that, in addition to driving sales of booster packs and sustaining a secondary market for cards, &lt;strong&gt;the rarity model serves as a useful bit of social engineering that sustains interest in Magic and preserves some variety in the local play environment&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Richard Garfield first designed the game, the assumption was that players would own a pretty small set of cards, and that rare cards would be... well, actually rare. Like only one of your friends would own a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt; and it would be noteworthy that he did so. Dedicated players and collectors, however, quickly bought lots of packs in order to acquire the cards they wanted, including all the coolest rares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lasting effect of this is that it established Magic as not just a card game, but a standalone hobby of sorts. Players' financial investment in the game translates into emotional investment as well. By sweetening the chase for cards, rarity helps to maintain Magic as a &lt;em&gt;big deal&lt;/em&gt; to its players rather than one game out of many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe that's all well and good but you treat Magic more as a strategy board game than a singular hobby, and so you don't see the point of mythic rare Thrun -- or, more specifically, &lt;em&gt;$15 Thrun&lt;/em&gt;. Here's the point of $15 Thrun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Newbie players aren't likely to see a lot of him. But many newbie players aren't likely to see a lot of anything that's not in a starter deck, so this really isn't that important.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very dedicated competitive players -- the kind of folks who might actually travel to play at a Grand Prix, for instance -- are going to be willing to pay $15 for him, if he's any good (or $100, if he's as good as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTarmogoyf%5d&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Confidant%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForce%20of%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;). Rarity is kinda irrelevant for them, really, outside of Limited.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hardcore casual and FNM-level competitive players buy a lot of cards, but they're still likely to feel a bit uneasy about spending $15 just to play Thrun. Quite a few players at this level are still likely to commit to Thrun, but it does involve &lt;em&gt;a commitment&lt;/em&gt; on their part, such that they're not likely to just come in next week with an entirely new flavor-of-the-moment deck after putting so much effort into acquiring Thrun or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWurmcoil%20Engine%5d&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt;s or &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5006/what-caused-liliana-of-the-veil-to-double-its-price-during-a-single-week&quot;&gt;blingy Liliana&lt;/a&gt;. This is one of the factors that ensures, especially in the era of massive Internet-driven information cascades, that your local play environment isn't just a carbon copy of the &quot;big leagues&quot; (the other being personal taste). Thus, &lt;strong&gt;the cost of picking up tournament-staple cards gives your local game store or &quot;kitchen table&quot; a metagame that moves at a comfortable pace for its participants, rather than the comparatively frantic clip of high-end tournament environments.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T00:26:38.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6361" CreationDate="2012-01-28T15:58:54.867" Score="4" ViewCount="7957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Cribbage on my phone 2 days ago and want to play with my friends, so I have some questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you determine who leads the next hand? I know the after the deal, the Pone leads, but after that, who leads?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After scoring a play, does each player take back their cards so that they can score their hands later?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are cards shuffled every time the dealer changes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-28T17:25:49.187" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T18:05:42.313" Title="Three beginner clarifications about Cribbage" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-01-28T16:23:48.283" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised that so many people have rallied around to say &quot;it's all about the money, deep down&quot;.  I don't think profitability is a key driver of there being different rarities at all.  I think it's just a side effect (though, for Wizards, a highly beneficial one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Richard Garfield had wanted all cards to have equal rarity, he certainly could have made the game that way.  Most games have only a single rarity, and most (good) games remain profitable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collectible card games are different to most games, naturally.  When you buy most games, you have a good idea of exactly what you're going to get inside the box.  When you rip open an MtG booster, you have no idea what you'll find inside.  And &lt;em&gt;having no idea is a lot of the fun&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's imagine a world in which a 300-card Magic set had only a single rarity.  Players who liked the game would buy a box of boosters and be pretty much guaranteed to own at least one of every card.  This is good from the point of view of impoverished completists.  But is it really good for maintaining the excitement of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's not forget that when Magic was being developed, Richard Garfield (rather naively perhaps) never imagined that people would feel obsessively driven to collect every card.  He anticipated coming across a new rare in another player's deck as a thrilling event.  Rarity was explicitly designed to create a more breathtaking gaming experience.  The game where you never know what you might be playing against when you sit down opposite a player from out-of-down.  Really, doesn't that sound like the best game in the universe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, that aspect of Magic became a victim of the game's runaway success... though it certainly didn't hurt the game's profit margins, as insane collectors paid out thousands of dollars to &quot;catch 'em all&quot;.  Even so, I don't think they kept rarity in the game just to rake in the cash.  Rarity has so many beneficial effects on the game to this day: it allows most of the cards in any given booster pack to be easy for a starting player to comprehend; it allows more interesting and controversial cards to be added to the mix because there won't be too many of them floating around the average play group; it allows for much more nuanced Sealed and Draft environments; and, at the end of the day, it just makes some cards feel intrinsically more cool and exciting than others, which might not be the case if you could easily have 20 of every card you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarity makes people want to pay big money for cards, because it's cool.  It isn't a trick to  &quot;force&quot; players to pay more money to play the game.  Players always have the option of not doing so, you know!  It's just that Magic is such a cool game that, for a lot of people, it's worth shelling out for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T16:23:48.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6354" CreationDate="2012-01-28T16:26:27.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overlapping Objectives&lt;/strong&gt;: You may only complete one mission per turn, even if you have achieved the objectives on multiple mission cards, and only on the turn which you achieved the objective. On page 17, under &lt;strong&gt;Completing a Mission&lt;/strong&gt; (emphasis mine).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Completing a Mission&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may claim a completed mission once you have achieved what it says on the card. But &lt;strong&gt;you cannot claim more than one mission on a turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; You may only complete missions if you achieve the objectives that turn. There are 3 examples of when mission cards can be claimed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Play at the Start of your Turn: before Reinforcements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Play after you gain Reinforcements: show when you receive reinforcements (either during the reinforcement step, or at any time you have 5+ cards in hand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Play at the end of your Turn: after drawing a territory card (if applicable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine it would be a nightmare if you would be required to remember all a players action since the beginning of the game as proof that you did/didn't complete some mission objective. The rulebook doesn't state clearly that you have to complete the mission objectives on the turn that you claim the card, but years of Risk history would indicate that this is the correct interpretation. This would further be clearer if the &quot;Control X continents/territory cards&quot; all had (play at the Start of your Turn) &lt;em&gt;since you cannot change the number of continents/territories you control until your combat step&lt;/em&gt;, the &quot;Conquer X continents/territory cards&quot; all had (play at the End of your Turn) &lt;em&gt;after your combat step&lt;/em&gt;, and all &quot;Gain X+ reinforcements&quot; cards with (play after you gain reinforcements) &lt;em&gt;since that is when you gain reinforcements&lt;/em&gt;. The alternative, of counting all your actions since the beginning of the game, would make it easy to complete many of the missions +3 troops per turn allows you claim 18+ troops on turn 6, conquer X+ territories cards would require a pen &amp;amp; paper to keep track of, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the differentiating factor for the Mission Cards, they are sorted by the type printed on their card backs (page 17), &lt;strong&gt;General, Major, Colonel, Captain&lt;/strong&gt;. I would surmise that they there are differing levels of difficult in completing these goals, but the rulebook doesn't say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sparse Reinforcements&lt;/strong&gt;: You may only use an opponents territory cards to gain &lt;strong&gt;further&lt;/strong&gt; reinforcements during a turn, if you have 5+ territory cards in hand. The rules specifically state the steps in your turn on page 7. You will note that Combat happens after Reinforcements. You can only gain a players territory cards from eliminating them during Combat, so it is too late in your current turn to purchase reinforcements during your normal Step 1. The only exception to this is on page 12, under &lt;strong&gt;Eliminating Another Player:&lt;/strong&gt; that says, &quot;if your new hand of Territory cards is now 5 or more, you must stop immediately turn in a set in for bonus reinforcements. Since you may play the mission card after gaining reinforcements, you can play it during this &lt;strong&gt;bonus&lt;/strong&gt; reinforcement step. You probably can also count any reinforcements you have gained since the start of this turn (during Step 1), and any troops you gain during this &lt;strong&gt;bonus&lt;/strong&gt; step towards fulfilling this requirement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step 1: Receive and Place Reinforcements (always)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step 2: Combat (if you like)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step 3: Fortify your Position (if you like)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Step 4: Collect a Territory Card (if you have conquered at least one territory)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eliminated Players&lt;/strong&gt;: Yes, any number of territories is twice as many as zero.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with this statement. An eliminated player clearly has zero territories, and zero times any number is zero (2 x 0 = 0). Therefore, any number of territories (including 0) would be having twice as many territories as any 1 enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 - 0 or more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 - 2 or more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 - 4 or more&#xA;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T03:59:02.823" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T03:59:02.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6358" CreationDate="2012-01-28T18:05:42.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The non-dealer leads the play for each hand.  If either player is unable to play a card without breaking 31, he calls &quot;Go&quot; after which the opposing player plays any other cards in his hand that are playable.  The player who called &quot;Go&quot; then leads the next play, starting at zero. During the show, when the hands are scored, the non-dealer also leads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During the play, each player places his own cards face up in front of himself, calling out the current total of played cards.  The cards in each players hand remain separate at all times so the hand may be scored at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The cards are shuffled with every deal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rules are based on the standard two player game.  For three players, the game is played clockwise with the player to the dealer's left leading the play and the show for each hand, and the player to the left of the last person to play a card leading after a &quot;Go&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T18:05:42.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6349" CreationDate="2012-01-28T18:23:51.380" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oracle&lt;/a&gt; is the official word on a card's text, unless this* is in play.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2rFkf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Unglued/Unhinged card sets are not tournament legal cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T18:23:51.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1698" CreationDate="2012-01-28T22:20:23.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a simpler version of this that adds much richness to the game despite the simplicity: &quot;future trades.&quot; It works as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Catan rules must be obeyed (trades only on your own turn, at&#xA;least 1 card offered by both parties)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a legal trade is made, a future trade can be included as part of&#xA;the deal. So you can offer a brick and a &quot;future trade&quot; in return for&#xA;a wheat (you would only do this if you desperately needed that wheat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The terms of the &quot;future trade&quot; must be made clear (i.e. The player&#xA;granting the future trade agrees to trade a single resource of the&#xA;type to be specified at the time the future trade is made in return for any resource that the recipient wants to&#xA;give. This particular trade is the standard contract that is used for&#xA;over 80% of future trades in our games)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The recipient of the future trade can cash it in at any time it is legal for the 2 players who entered the agreement to make a trade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Catan rules do not have a mechanism for enforcing future trades to occur as promised. However, we always point out to people considering reneging on the contract that if they do so, they are unlikely to be a party in future trades in any future game, as nobody would be able to trust them. For this reason, every future trade I've ever been a part of has been honored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that for experienced Catan players, future trades are very powerful and can be used for both offensive and defensive purposes. After seeing future trades employed just 2 or 3 times, most players learn to greatly fear and respect granting a future trade to one of the better Catan players at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-01-28T22:20:23.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7354" CreationDate="2012-01-29T00:30:41.287" Score="5" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many Print &amp;amp; Play (P&amp;amp;P/PNP) board games come from a designer's desire to get people to play their game. If the intent of designing a P&amp;amp;P board game is getting the most people to play it, should the components be designed to look the most beautiful (full color images, art, etc.), or should the components be designed to be functional and less ink intensive (grayscale/b&amp;amp;w images)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the need for a large amount of printed components scare too many people away? If functionality isn't affected too greatly, can substitution components be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: a randomizer without replacement (a deck of cards), with just a chart/look-up table showing what each card represents vs. creating card art and rules text for a brand new deck of cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, do people who PNP prefer a good looking game, or a cheap and easy to create game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T06:31:01.260" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T07:17:54.157" Title=" With Print&amp;Play board games, should the focus be beauty or simplicity?" Tags="|game-design|print-and-play|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6365" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-29T00:50:21.490" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-01-29T00:50:21.490" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T00:50:21.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6366" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-29T00:50:21.490" Score="0" Body="Print and Play (P&amp;P or PNP) are games that were designed to provide you with rules and component files which you can print out on your home printer and play." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-01-29T01:30:56.663" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T01:30:56.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6291" CreationDate="2012-01-29T00:59:28.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the four corners are accounted for, the fifth stone goes to the center point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a six stone handicap, there is no center stone, but two stones (above four) go in the middle of the left and right sides. The seventh stone goes back to the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are eight stones, the four stones (above four) go to the middle of the left and right sides, and top and bottom. The ninth stone goes back on the center point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T00:59:28.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6370" CreationDate="2012-01-29T06:13:58.773" Score="15" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Puerto Rico, a player is required to ship as many of one good as they can in turn order.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has a wharf, goods available to ship, and is otherwise unable to ship goods on the available ships, is that player required to use their wharf to ship all of one of their remaining goods?  Or are they allowed to, say, hang on to their coffee to sell during a later trader phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T21:26:55.973" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T01:46:37.367" Title="Is a player required to ship on a wharf if they are able to?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6368" CreationDate="2012-01-29T07:11:09.003" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Wharf is optional, and a player is not required to use it each turn.  Here are a couple quotes from the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The Violet Buildings (page 9)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player is not required to use the special function of an occupied violet&#xA;building if he does not want to (important with the wharf, see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The Wharf (page 11 - emphasis, mine)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wharf can only be used once per captain phase by its owner, &lt;em&gt;but he&#xA;may choose when to use it, &lt;strong&gt;if at all.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T07:11:09.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-29T16:46:54.950" Score="22" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once read that the main regret in the design of Puerto Rico was over-pricing the University. Anyone have any guesses (or statistical analysis) as to the &quot;correct&quot; price?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="762" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T13:01:53.253" Title="How much should the University cost?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6371" CreationDate="2012-01-29T21:48:14.137" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read many people saying the same thing - the university is overpriced.  I read one group who attempted to find the true value of the buildings by playing for two years and varying prices based on whether they were bought, and how well the people who bought them did.   The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/399935/perfected-puerto-rico&quot;&gt;write up&lt;/a&gt; contains a downloadable copy of their results and final prices for all the buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In their games, most of the prices have seemed to stay fairly close to the original prices.  A rough summary of the exceptions from the base game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Small Market ~ 2 gold&#xA;Small Warehouse ~ 4 gold (with 3 players)&#xA;Office ~ 3/4 gold&#xA;Large Warehouse ~ 5 gold (with 4 players)&#xA;Factory ~ 8 gold&#xA;University ~ 7 gold&#xA;Harbor ~ 9/10 gold (with 3 players)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's plenty more that could be drawn from their results too, I'd recommend giving it a read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results aren't perfect for a number of reasons.  Firstly they changed the rules to allow all buildings from the base game and first expansion to be available to them every game.  Secondly (as noted above) the power of some buildings vary with the number of players.  There are hardly any games played with two or five players, and not many more with four.  Thirdly, the same people play many of the games, and their preferences bias the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go back to your question though.  If you're interested from a theoretical point of view then this data suggests the university should be about seven gold.  Personally I think that seems about right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you're interested because you want to play with different prices then I suggest trying it!  I read somewhere of a variant where before the start of a game a few buildings are increased/decreased in price by players putting red/green counters on them.  If your group thinks the university is too expensive then it will get more green counters, and you should end up with more interesting in-game decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2012-01-29T21:48:14.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-01-29T23:44:21.023" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's a rather awful card with one very limited application that only really works in draft.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a deck that can win a game or two (likely only games, not &lt;em&gt;matches&lt;/em&gt;) in Dark Ascension draft and sealed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1x Lost in the Woods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;45x Forest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transform into it for game 2 after you're sure they don't have enchantment removal or enough mill or burn to bypass it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mulligan until you get Lost in the Woods in your opening hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a Forest a turn (you're guaranteed to draw one) until you can cast Lost in the Woods.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Win the game by running your opponent out of cards, TurboFog-style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This trick is rather fragile, but it was apparently good enough to win a few games on the Pro Tour!&lt;/strong&gt; (As discussed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magicmadhouse.co.uk/articles/2014/11/tims-top-fives-the-five-most-ridiculous-things-seen-at-a-pro-tour/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/generallimited/23636_Finding_Your_Way_Out_Of_The_Woods.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importantly, it's a trick that costs almost nothing in draft: you can draft a normal deck in any colors and randomly twelth-pick this single junk rare to give yourself an entire alternate strategy to swap into. That's the very lowest possible investment for a transformational strategy, well worth the potential to &quot;steal&quot; a game or two out of nowhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that... no, not really. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a defensive card, it doesn't really compare to staples like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Propaganda&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6152&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spike Weaver&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Benefits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a permanent, of a pretty durable kind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protects your planeswalkers, too. A lot of older defensive enchantments don't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not a damage-prevention effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiples stack nicely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You control how the triggers are stacked. If you know what's in first few cards of your library, you can use Lost in the Woods to stop the biggest threat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creatures it removes from combat don't become untapped as a result.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only works on forests, not any land. This is quite prohibitive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cmc 5. If this were much lower, Lost in the Woods might still be worth it as a card that a ramp could drop to slow down an aggro opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the problem is that &lt;strong&gt;it's too slow for 60-card Magic but a singleton copy doesn't do very much for you in Commander&lt;/strong&gt;. The card can be improved by synergy with stuff like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50400&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sensei's Divining Top&lt;/a&gt;, but that's like saying &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222635&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Siege Mastodon&lt;/a&gt; is more playable with Black Lotus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond the fog effect, this card does do something else, though: it lets you go through a bunch of your deck. With something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Future Sight&lt;/a&gt; on the field, you can take advantage of the individual resolution of the triggers to cycle through a chunk of your library looking for stuff to cast. The major downside is that making effectively use of this requires not only a Future Sight effect, but also the ability to play most of your stuff at instant speed. It's much easier to set up the same combo with Top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2018-07-04T15:46:46.500" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T15:46:46.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="355" CreationDate="2012-01-30T00:29:27.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a great (the best, far and away, IMO) offline randomizer with a TON of options.  You'll love it.  disclaimer: I wrote the app :)&#xA;Get it here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/gajlaijicbmdnbpdficpdlkhgajhgkkd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/gajlaijicbmdnbpdficpdlkhgajhgkkd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not real sure why this recommendation keeps getting deleted.  I'll try one more time and if it gets deleted this time I'll appeal to admin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2403" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T00:29:27.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T06:44:16.090" Score="13" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cheapass.com/sites/default/files/BMenRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Button Men&lt;/a&gt; is a free Print&amp;amp;Play game for 2 players. Each player chooses a character card, and the polyhedral dice associated with that character, and takes turns trying to capture their opponent's dice. There are over 200 characters created for it. Dice with more sides can capture opponent's dice more easily, but they are worth more to your opponents when they are captured.  Some analysis has been done with regard to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beatpeopleup.com/bmstrat.html&quot;&gt;strategy&lt;/a&gt;, but have the clearly best and worst character cards emerged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T14:29:33.510" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T14:59:43.863" Title="Is there a best character in Button Men? Is there a worst character?" Tags="|statistics|button-men|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5329" CreationDate="2012-01-30T12:13:54.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many newspapers have Bridge Columns and these are often archived online, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/series/bridge-with-zia-mahmood?INTCMP=SRCH&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zia Mahmood (The Guardian)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.phillipalderbridge.com/columns.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phillip Alder(New York Times)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find others by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com?q=%22bridge%20column%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;searching for &quot;bridge column&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T12:13:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T16:28:04.400" Score="1" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you've got a fairly competitive Magic: the Gathering deck you really like. It's likely to be tuned to the particular environment it developed in, whether that's what's most popular among your friend group or the metagame at your local FNM (or this month's big-tournament metagame, for that matter -- netdecks are a popular thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of MTG play is informal play between relative strangers. It's not &quot;Vintage&quot; because you're not playing with decks designed to win Vintage. You can sit down for some &quot;casual play&quot; at a convention or game store and see everything from an old Lorwyn-era Standard deck to Legacy-grade Countertop to a cross-set mono-green beatdown deck -- and you'll get to play some pretty dang serious games against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly this is an environment that favors breadth over really specific answers and hosers and threats. As an example, Gut Shot is a pretty widespread card in M12-Scars-Innistrad Standard because it deals with turn-1 Delver or Stromkirk Noble; it's rather a crap choice against an aggro deck using cards like Loam Lion, Vampire Lacerator, or Goblin Guide, though. Lightning Bolt, in contrast, is a card that is almost never considered useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What approach should you take to improve the breadth of a deck for this kind of never-know-what-you're-going-to-face environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T19:12:57.317" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T11:12:45.490" Title="How can I modify an existing deck for a wide-open environment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6399" CreationDate="2012-01-30T17:18:24.940" Score="4" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules, it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attacking a monster does not require making an evade test.  This&#xA;  attack may be unarmed, with a weapon, or with an &lt;strong&gt;“attack”  Spell card&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;  This attack does not need to target a monster in the  investigator’s&#xA;  space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can avoid the evade test if casting an attack spell. So what spells are considered &quot;attack&quot; spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1979" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T17:31:31.543" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T08:19:07.003" Title="What are &quot;attack&quot; Spells?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6380" CreationDate="2012-01-30T17:51:32.697" Score="6" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;The special ability of the Bavarian Illuminati allows them to make a privileged attack for the cost of 5MB. Is this a free action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1907" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T08:35:15.890" LastActivityDate="2023-08-25T12:53:27.677" Title="Does the Bavarian Illuminati make a privileged attack in addition to their two actions?" Tags="|illuminati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6379" CreationDate="2012-01-30T18:24:22.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the Bavarian Illuminati's special attack is not a free action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not listed as an example free action in the list on page 7 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/illuminati/img/illuminati_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.  It's function is built into the regular attacks used.  Note that the only mention of the special power in the rules section is inside of the &lt;strong&gt;Interference&lt;/strong&gt; section on page 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bavarian's privileged attack is simply a way for them to avoid paying the usual cost to make an attack privileged. Instead of Discarding a special card, they can spend $5 once/turn to make an attack privileged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not mean that the groups participating in the attack are exempt from the general rule that each group may only participate in one attack per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T18:45:59.053" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T18:45:59.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6382" CreationDate="2012-01-30T19:44:21.410" Score="32" ViewCount="9373" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Dark Ascension FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a creature with undying that has a +1/+1 counter on it receives enough -1/-1 counters to cause it to be destroyed by lethal damage or put into its owner's graveyard for having 0 or less toughness, undying won't trigger and the card won't return to the battlefield. That's because undying checks the creature's existence just before it leaves the battlefield, and it still has all those counters on it at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why don't the counters cancel?  Could someone elaborate on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T19:32:13.357" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T19:32:13.357" Title="Why doesn't Undying trigger if a creature with +1/+1 counters dies from -1/-1 counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6381" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:12:41.470" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Section 704 in the comp rules covers state-based actions. Both of these are on the big list of state-based actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5f&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can't replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5r&lt;/strong&gt; If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are removed from it, where N is the&#xA;smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are resolved different from triggered abilities, in that they're only checked during the cleanup step and when it's time for a player to receive priority. They also don't use the stack. More importantly, whenever state-based effects are checked, all applicable ones resolve &lt;em&gt;simultaneously&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing the Priority&amp;quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for&#xA;state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions&#xA;simultaneously as a single event. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if an effect puts enough -1/-1 counters on a creature to reduce its toughness to zero or less, you would both put the creature in the graveyard and cancel out the +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the wording of Undying as an ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying &lt;em&gt;(When this creature dies, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it,&#xA;return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1&#xA;counter on it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your creatures dies (and it's already in your graveyard), Undying triggers and looks at its last known state on the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;Your creature died at the exact same time as it lost its +1/+1 counters, so it was never actually on the battlefield without a +1/+1 counter on it&lt;/strong&gt;, which is why it doesn't come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue here is that the informal way many players resolve the counters rule -- removing the necessary number of +1/+1 or -1/-1 counters while resolving the &amp;quot;apply counters&amp;quot; part of an effect -- ever-so-minutely doesn't match the formal procedure on canceling counters (which only occurs as a state-based action afterward). There are occasionally similar issues with indestructible as well: players often forget that damage dealt to an indestructible creature still stays &amp;quot;marked&amp;quot; on it until end of turn, which will cause it to die if it somehow loses its indestructibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note this counterexample, however, based on the fact that state-based actions can occur in multiple passes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.3.&lt;/strong&gt; ... If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the&#xA;check is repeated; otherwise all triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on&#xA;the stack, then the check is repeated. Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the&#xA;result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player&#xA;gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243250&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geralf's Messenger&lt;/a&gt; with a +1/+1 counter on it and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234070&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cemetery Reaper&lt;/a&gt; (which gives the Messenger +1/+1) on the battlefield.&#xA;You cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214061&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, state-based actions resolve in &lt;em&gt;two passes&lt;/em&gt;, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;First&lt;/em&gt;, these two things happen simultaneously: Geralf's Messenger's counters cancel; Cemetery Reaper has a net toughness of -1, so it dies. Geralf's Messenger's toughness is 1 (base 2, +1 from the +1/+1 counter, +1 from the Reaper, -3 from the -1/-1 counters), so it doesn't die yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Then&lt;/em&gt;, once Cemetery Reaper has left the field, we check state again. The Messenger's toughness is now 0, so it dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now the Messenger's +1/+1 counters were cleaned up &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it died, so Undying &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T04:23:32.167" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6377" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:19:05.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think perhaps you are asking the wrong question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was going to an event for casual play, I'd normally bring more than one deck and I'd either ask for an opponent for a specific format or else ask the other person what format and break out the appropriate deck.  Obviously, I didn't carry a deck for every conceivable format, but if I brought my current standard deck, and an extended deck, and a &quot;completely-casual-deck to play against beginners&quot; I'd be able to find something &quot;close enough&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want just one deck to take to take to a gathering, then I would make a fast, solid aggro deck with some removal but no specific hosers (except just maybe in sideboard).  I would go with aggro over control or combo for a couple of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It always exists in about the same form in most formats, where control really needs to be tuned to the metagame to work right, so it can be broadly competitive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are describing a fairly casual environment of pick-up games.  Of course any competitive player would be happy to face combo or control, but it frustrates and surprises a lot of casual/new players.  So, for the sake of everyone having fun, I tend to run aggro in pick-up games and save combo/control for more competitive environments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building this deck to take to such an open environment, I would avoid anything that was designed as an answer to a specific threat (one with nothing for instance saw tournament play due to the metagame at the time, but it was an answer to one specific threat type).  I would also look more than normal at cards that could have multiple purposes (green has often had cards that would act as a creature, or kill an artifact).  Of course, such versatility often comes at a cost in terms of mana, but in that type of environment (might face anything, but generally on the casual side) that might be a fair trade off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you can blunt a lot of the &quot;random-deck&quot; problems by playing multiplayer.  Even if you don't have an answer to a major threat, another player at the table probably does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastEditorUserId="2198" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T21:16:00.017" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T21:16:00.017" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:24:13.047" Score="8" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in Arkham Horror, we're playing with the &amp;quot;Lurker on the Threshold&amp;quot; expansion.  It introduces the idea of 'pacts'.  When these pacts are received, cards from the 'reckoning' deck are resolved.  We pulled a card in the middle of a game with the title &amp;quot;Prisoner's Dilemma&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The investigators must choose: either the investigator with the most&#xA;Power is devoured, or the investigator with the least Power is driven&#xA;insane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Prisoner%27s_Dilemma&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Card Info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the rules does it specify how that choice is arrived at.  The pluralization of 'investigators' suggests that it is not up to the First Player, but how is this meant to be resolved?  In our game, we deadlocked on the issue for a time, as there was fierce and spirited debate over the best course of action.  We eventually settled it with a roll-off, but how should this be resolved?  Specific citations of applicable rules would be &lt;em&gt;highly&lt;/em&gt; appreciated, as various theories were bandied about throughout the remainder of the night to the vague dissatisfaction of all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T22:32:13.510" Title="How do the Investigators Collectively Decide?" Tags="|arkham-horror|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6385" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:24:52.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lurker at the Threshold is a smaller expansion to Arkham Horror, including new items, new spells, Relationship cards, and horrific Dark Pacts made with the powers beyond. It was released in July of 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T21:12:41.563" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T21:12:41.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6386" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:24:52.017" Score="0" Body="The Lurker at the Threshold is a smaller expansion to Arkham Horror, including new items, new spells, Relationship cards, and horrific Dark Pacts made with the powers beyond. It was released in July of 2010." OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T21:12:45.027" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T21:12:45.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6408" CreationDate="2012-01-30T20:51:46.857" Score="15" ViewCount="2480" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two-space extension is a very common pattern and forms a base. I've found lots of material &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?TwoSpaceExtensionUnobviousAnswers&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?HighInvasionOfMixedThreeSpaceExtension&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and elsewhere on how it cannot be cut and how to defend against various invasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, in one of my games I was confronted with the following non-standard invasion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Non-standard invasion of two-space extension&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . 1 . . . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . O . . O . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: Ignoring the three marked stones, how would one usually defend this invasion? Is J17 correct here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the option for black to connect up to the left and the white wall at the right, I played H18, which resulted in utter chaos and a miserable result for white. Below is my failed attempt at defending against this invasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Failed defense&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . 2 1 . 3 4 . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . O . 5 O 7 . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . 6 . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this, Black was able to connect to the right. I've been playing around with various options, but couldn't find anything useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: Is white 2 above already a horrible mistake? Or does there exist a follow-up after black 3 that kills the invading stones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 3: How strong is the two-space extension? In the initial situation where black invades at 1, what is the best white can expect to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 4: I found myself at quite a lack of knowledge when it comes to defending such non-standard attacks, however, most resources (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/&quot;&gt;SL&lt;/a&gt;) only cover the typical attacks. Is it worthwhile to invest a lot of time into learning how to deal with strange attacks? Or should one expect to get this simply by experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2104" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T17:45:38.447" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T03:10:46.057" Title="Second line invasion of two-space extension" Tags="|go|invasion|extension|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-30T21:01:00.340" Score="9" ViewCount="2531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an occasional social Magic player (not crazy about the game). I like playing drafts more than constructed to avoid the arms race, but they're not cheap, and one of my friends had a real problem with buying cards for a while, so I was thinking about putting together a Cube so that when we draft every now and again, no one would have to buy anything. It also seems like it would lend itself well to inexpensive cards, since having a consistent power level would allow competitive games even if that level is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't want to spend much time or money doing so (I'd rather just suggest 7 Wonders or something like that). Is there any resource that has Cube lists, maybe specifically for &quot;budget&quot;/Pauper-type selections that provide a fun experience? I did a cursory Internet search, but all the lists I came across seemed peppered with at least a few cards I know are pricey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T18:21:15.180" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T06:03:42.820" Title="Where to find lists of cheap Cubes?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2012-01-30T21:57:55.517" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ratcatcher ... just too powerful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taster ... changes the basic mechanic of the game, puts the people in 4 or 5 turn order in a really bad spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mail Coach Driver ... messes with people as much as the Taster! Everyone will have to modify their strategy accordingly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the cards &quot;I&quot; think are broken are the ones that change the game FOR EVERYONE, not holder of the card. The Lover and Wet Nurse are good, but I can get a good card of my own and still compete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2408" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-01-30T22:04:51.700" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T22:04:51.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6388" CreationDate="2012-01-30T22:17:45.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are on a budget, you probably don't want to buy any cards - by definition, for a &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150207042127/www.cubedrafting.com/what-is-the-cube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cube&lt;/a&gt; you need the best cards of all times. The power 9 alone would run you into the thousands of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have 2 inexpensive options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cube works with any set of cards, just take the best cards you have. No money involved, only time to decide on the cards. You don't have to use any list, just use whatever you have. &lt;strong&gt;Advantage&lt;/strong&gt;: You learn a lot about your the cards in your collection and you have to make a conscious effort grading their relative power, which can only benefit you as a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if you don't mind using proxies, simply take a cube list you like and print proxies of everything you are missing. There are many resources where you can get card scans, or use the Gatherer text for the latest errata. This will take some time to prepare the printing run, and depending on your circumstances, could cost you a few dollars for paper and/or ink. &lt;strong&gt;Advantage&lt;/strong&gt;: You get to play the best cards of all times for crazy powerful decks, should be loads of fun, you (probably) get to know many new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-06T06:03:42.820" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T06:03:42.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6384" CreationDate="2012-01-30T22:32:13.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;If players cannot agree, then the first player chooses&quot; ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It reads something to that effect, though I could only locate it in the Headless Hollow version of the rules on short notice)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-01-30T22:32:13.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2012-01-30T23:42:30.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it can and often does provide territory, that is not the primary reason that you want to play the two-space extension on the third line; what you're looking for with this extension is a base which is very difficult to cut, one which you can use to fight and/or secure territory as the game progresses.  Unless black has support, white can easily connect in the face of any attack and either make life on the edge, or leap out into the centre, depending on the circumstances.  It's a very stable and efficient shape, and the flexibility is a major part of why it's so popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maintaining the connection itself against black 1 is fairly simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm2 The easiest solution: Connect&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X . . . . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . X . O 1 . O . . O X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the so-called invasion is little more than a reduction, which now looks quite lonely.  A continuation could look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm2 Black's not-so-glorious retreat&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . 4 2 X 3 . a . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . X . O 1 . O . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to the marked stones white still has a very solid territory, even though black has &quot;successfully&quot; reduced it by a few points (in gote).  Black has traded a few points of territory for giving white a not-insignificant amount of influence toward the the centre; this is the type of move that's typically held off until the endgame after territory is more-or-less defined.  During the mid-game, black would usually be better off deferring the attack in favour of a big point elsewhere unless he has a good chance of profiting (e.g., by pressuring or outright killing the weakened group after reducing eyespace).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the marked stones were absent, white could still comfortably jump out to the centre or secure an eye with &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing white 2 at H18 isn't necessarily bad (depending on what's going on in the centre, I would probably avoid it), but it picks a fight you want to be sure that you can win, and that is actually worth winning; thinking that the best (or only) defence against any attack involves killing the offending stones is a common mistake.  If black can tip the balance in his favour by ten points now, you can still win if you tip it back later by twenty, and being overly aggressive is a good way to make things needlessly complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T03:10:46.057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T03:10:46.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2012-01-31T00:17:31.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would play J17 and force Black to connect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you played, Black got the optimal result; he broke up your extension and turned &quot;your&quot; area into a free-for-all fight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black's downside is that his &quot;invasion&quot; is on the second line. If you push against him on the third line, you've lost some territory, it's true, but you've more than made up for this in center facing influence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many players will trade influence for third line territory, but here Black is basically offering to trade influence for only second line territory. The trade would be all in your favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, once you hane at K18, Black has to take gote with 5 (see the diagram to gold's answer). Then you should reduce Black's right side influence, perhaps with a move around N15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T00:17:31.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6397" CreationDate="2012-01-31T03:28:20.423" Score="9" ViewCount="3229" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking at a number of EDH deck lists I have seen two distinct types of mana bases used by various decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some decks use a large number of basic lands, dual lands and utility lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other decks use a minimum number of basics, dual lands including the Alpha, Beta, Unlimited, Revised duals plus Shock lands, a range of fetch lands and the relevant utility lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost is a obvious factor for choosing the first type of mana base but for what other reasons would you choose one type over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T17:44:59.193" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T22:03:43.980" Title="Types of EDH mana base" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-commander|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-31T03:42:07.437" Score="5" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my quest to find the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6375/is-there-a-best-character-in-button-men-is-there-a-worst-character&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I have decided to start smaller. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cheapass.com/sites/default/files/BMenRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules of Button Men are here&lt;/a&gt;, and the characters are listed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avis&lt;/strong&gt;: d4, d4, d10, d12, dX (where X is d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, or d20)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Iago&lt;/strong&gt;: d20, d20, d20, dX (where X is d4, d6, d8, d10, d12, or d20)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: Technically speaking according to the Button Men rules, the dX swing die can be any number within the range of 4 to 20 inclusive. For the purposes of this question, we will assume that the swing die will be one of the polyhedral dice listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to take a stab at this question, be my guest. I will be attempting to brute force an answer over the next couple of days. If you want to post whether you believe brute forcing an answer is possible, and the total number of permutations that need to be examined, that would be nice (I will attempt to make a guess myself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T17:15:12.157" Title="Does Avis or Iago have a better chance of winning a match?" Tags="|probability|statistics|button-men|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6394" CreationDate="2012-01-31T04:08:40.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would avoid nonbasic land if your group regularly sees&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/49HsK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Back to Basics&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VgiDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ruination&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GrasX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Blood Moon&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lx4Jp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Magus of the Moon&quot;&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T04:15:43.870" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T04:15:43.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6394" CreationDate="2012-01-31T05:07:58.300" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fetchlands + duals is a formula used by almost all the top decks in every format that allows them. &lt;strong&gt;The main advantage is monumental consistency.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Verdant%20Catacombs&quot;&gt;Verdant Catacombs&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, can fetch any of the following original dual lands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Badlands (&lt;em&gt;Swamp&lt;/em&gt; / Mountain)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bayou (&lt;em&gt;Swamp&lt;/em&gt; / &lt;em&gt;Forest&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Savannah (&lt;em&gt;Forest&lt;/em&gt; / Plains)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrubland (Plains / &lt;em&gt;Swamp&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taiga (Mountain / &lt;em&gt;Forest&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tropical Island (&lt;em&gt;Forest&lt;/em&gt; / Island)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Underground Sea (Island / &lt;em&gt;Swamp&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That translates into easy access into any color you need, significantly superior to even what you'd get running a full set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Shards%20of%20Alara%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&amp;amp;rarity=%7C%5BU%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shards of Alara tri-lands&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The duals you fetch can produce two colors, so you'll have good &lt;strong&gt;color depth&lt;/strong&gt; among the lands you have in play (color depth is an advantage of multi-color non-basics in general).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fetches provide a way to &lt;strong&gt;shuffle away the top of your library&lt;/strong&gt;, commonly employed with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sensei%27s%20Divining%20Top&quot;&gt;Sensei&amp;#39;s Divining Top&lt;/a&gt;: put the cards you want on top of your library and the cards you don't underneath them, draw the cards you want, then crack your fetchland to shuffle the chaff away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many multi-color lands come into play tapped at least some of the time. Both old-school duals and shocklands can &lt;strong&gt;come into play untapped&lt;/strong&gt;, so there's no loss of momentum compared to playing basic lands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since cracking a fetchland actually removes another land from your library, it &lt;strong&gt;thins your deck&lt;/strong&gt;, reducing your likelihood to draw lands in the late game when you'd rather have spells. This effect is rather marginal, but it's a tiny little bonus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fetches basically double your &lt;strong&gt;landfall&lt;/strong&gt; triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlike other non-basics, these lands make it very easy to use &lt;strong&gt;domain&lt;/strong&gt;-like abilities. This is basically why &amp;quot;Zoo&amp;quot; even exists as a deck type in Modern and Legacy. In Commander you'll see this used to support some powerful cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collective%20Restraint&quot;&gt;Collective Restraint&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fetchlands give you an easy way to put lands in your graveyard, which powers up &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20from%20the%20Loam&quot;&gt;Life from the Loam&lt;/a&gt; combos, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5BThreshold%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;threshold cards&lt;/a&gt;, and other stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why shouldn't you play fetches, duals, and shocks, besides the cost of owning the cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategically speaking,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fetch abilities can be &lt;strong&gt;countered by a few rare effects&lt;/strong&gt;. In Legacy, &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; spell for this is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;. In Commander, you could fall prey to repeatable effects like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Azorius Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidmage%20Husher&quot;&gt;Voidmage Husher&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fetches are vulnerable to &lt;strong&gt;search hosers&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aven%20Mindcensor&quot;&gt;Aven Mindcensor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadow%20of%20Doubt&quot;&gt;Shadow of Doubt&lt;/a&gt;. Commander has a very powerful hoser: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stranglehold&quot;&gt;Stranglehold&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A heavily non-basic mana base is vulnerable to &lt;strong&gt;non-basic-land hate&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland&quot;&gt;Wasteland&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Back%20to%20Basics&quot;&gt;Back to Basics&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Moon&quot;&gt;Blood Moon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Price%20of%20Progress&quot;&gt;Price of Progress&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruination&quot;&gt;Ruination&lt;/a&gt;. Experienced players can easily mitigate many of these effects by using their fetchlands to get basic lands, though; ultimately you still have better protection against them than you would with a multicolor deck that doesn't use fetches and duals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fetches and shocks &lt;strong&gt;drain your life&lt;/strong&gt;. A couple life here and there seems inconsequential, but it can add up pretty quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, practically speaking, shuffling your deck all the time is annoying. I can't even shuffle 100 sleeved cards without splitting the deck in half. Although you can at least reduce some of the inconvenience by cracking fetches on an opponent's turn (similar to proper Divining Top etiquette).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-03-26T22:03:43.980" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T22:03:43.980" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2012-01-31T08:05:35.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 1: Ignoring the three marked stones, how would one usually defend this invasion? Is J17 correct here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They really can't be ignored for a question like this. &quot;This&quot; invasion doesn't come out of nowhere (except vs. a belligerent beginner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 2: Is white 2 above already a horrible mistake? Or does there exist a follow-up after black 3 that kills the invading stones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 at 7 seems to work. Black should not have enough space to live locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 3: How strong is the two-space extension? In the initial situation where black invades at 1, what is the best white can expect to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't normally expect Black to accomplish anything positive without stones in the K15 area. The P17 wall may be troublesome, though. It also needs to be asked just how White got into this position in the first place. In particular, if J18 is worrisome, then defend first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 4: I found myself at quite a lack of knowledge when it comes to defending such non-standard attacks, however, most resources (like SL) only cover the typical attacks. Is it worthwhile to invest a lot of time into learning how to deal with strange attacks? Or should one expect to get this simply by experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By definition, you won't see strange attacks often. There's no point in memorizing responses to them, at least until you get to the point where you've memorized everything more useful than that (which is probably pretty close to pro level). What you want to do is develop your tactics and your fighting strength. Studying shape is a good idea as well (it's a broader topic than many people give it credit for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2234" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T08:05:35.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6378" CreationDate="2012-01-31T08:13:11.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bind Monster&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Shriveling&lt;/strong&gt; are both Attack Spells.  Just under the title of the card is the phrase, &lt;em&gt;Spell, Attack&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bind Monster will stun the target while Shriveling will do a good amount of damage if you pass the test to cast them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gloria Goldberg can start with Bind Monster while Harvey Walters can start with Shriveling.  Otherwise you will have to gain the spells during play by reading a tome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T08:19:07.003" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T08:19:07.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2012-01-31T08:59:04.600" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couldn't I Ancient Grudge the ratchet bomb in response to it coming out before its ability goes on the stack? I might be wrong but I thought that it being an instant (and red/green double artifact kill is really a great mainboard card in my opinion.) would beat its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2409" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T13:17:41.727" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T13:17:41.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-01-31T09:01:44.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are viable uses for something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a birthing pod deck, you're not going to be casting all that many creatures. At the very least, you can afford to not cast creatures, because you're still getting tons of them, probably a lot of tokens or other card advantage with all the battlefield triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have any decent acceleration, you're looking at podding into a turn 4 solumn simulcrum and a 4 drop, a turn 5 this and podding into an acedic slime, and a turn 6 5-or-6 drop and podding into a titan or wurmcoil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not suggesting its the best fit, but in a green heavy birthpod deck, it could be fairly useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a card called Scouting Trek that says &quot;Search your library for any number of basic land cards. Reveal those cards, then shuffle your library and put them on top of it.&quot; So obviously this would be very useful. (Note it does not say reveal the order in which you put them on top of your library, so the attacker does not know which one will hit what.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also use it in conjunction with Cellar Door - it puts the bottom card of your library in your graveyard to put a 2/2 token in if the card was a creature. If you have a lot of creatures that can be cast from the graveyard (which is very popular here) this is an easy way to know what's on the bottom of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when you consider that they made lords uncommon in this set, they had to put something as rares... and if they didn't make this a rare they would (typically) increase its cost further, which would make it even less playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admittedly the card would be better if it had a 3 or 4 cost, or if the creatures didn't untap during the next untap step or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr there are a couple ways to use this card that would be fun, particularly in a casual or sealed environments given the right circumstances. It's not a &lt;strong&gt;horrid&lt;/strong&gt; card. I'd still take this over magnetic mine...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T09:01:44.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6377" CreationDate="2012-01-31T11:12:45.490" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way of dealing with a great variance of decks is to ignore them. Make a solid combo deck with some protection (counters/discard) and you'll beat most decks. Especially since they won't have the correct sideboard against you in this wide format. This will for sure make a competitive deck if you want to win, but the games against the casual players won't be much fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say the best way to enjoy games of magic against with such a variance of opponents is to have several decks. That's because I think it's most fun when playing pretty even decks, at least so even that both players have a chance of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Making a deck that tries to handle every possible deck in a special way will just make it kinda bad against everything and you'll get beaten by all good decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T11:12:45.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-01-31T11:52:17.810" Score="18" ViewCount="1469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shape is immensely important in Go, and you can read about the basics anywhere - don't make empty triangles, table and mouth shapes are good, etc.  Where can I find more advanced treatments of shape?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T20:04:23.800" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T17:32:49.540" Title="Resources for learning about good shape?" Tags="|go|study|shape|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6405" CreationDate="2012-01-31T14:47:56.533" Score="8" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the entry for &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/12/07/intrigue-wishing-well/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wishing Well&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy&lt;/a&gt;, I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards that you view with Spy get drawn by the Wishing Well instead of being wished for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards in question are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EGwY5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Wishing Well&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G54hT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spy&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I understand it, after you play Spy, you know what the top card is (if you don't discard it), but this is drawn immediately from Wishing Well, and then you don't know what to wish for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I misunderstanding how these cards work, or is the article referring to something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2410" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T17:32:03.627" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T17:32:03.627" Title="Is it possible to combo Spy and Wishing Well?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6404" CreationDate="2012-01-31T15:04:53.290" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding is correct. You are just misinterpreting the article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need something like Scout to combo more effectively. Draw 4 cards, at least two non-victory, put them back, draw one using WW and wish for the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T15:04:53.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6404" CreationDate="2012-01-31T16:08:29.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember - act out the card in order that it is written:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;+1 Card&lt;/strong&gt;, then &lt;strong&gt;+1 Action&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; &quot;Name a card...&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any card that has you put (just) one card back on your deck (e.g. Spy, Bureaucrat, Lookout, Courtyard, Pearl Diver, etc.) will not be a good combo for Wishing well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scout&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Navigator&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Apothecary&lt;/strong&gt; are good for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T16:08:29.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1643" CreationDate="2012-01-31T16:43:05.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously no list is &quot;best&quot;. I'd say having them read the rules and then play with a veteran (or better, play online with a veteran by their side) is the best way to learn the rules. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chapel&lt;/strong&gt; - While not a &lt;em&gt;rule&lt;/em&gt;, your friends need to learn about deck management. Mint would be a good substitute here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moat&lt;/strong&gt; - Action/Reaction, defense for Saboteur or useful in combos with City.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ironworks&lt;/strong&gt; - a good Intrigue &quot;choice&quot; card. I also had the Island in mind when selecting this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saboteur&lt;/strong&gt; - token attack card. Also chosen with Bridge in mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caravan&lt;/strong&gt; - Simple duration, pairs well with Throne Room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Island&lt;/strong&gt; - of the three &quot;mats&quot;, this one has least room for error/misinterpretation by new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;City&lt;/strong&gt; - might as well teach them that letting the veteran get all 10 of these is a bad idea!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quarry/Bridge&lt;/strong&gt; - for learning about the changing values of cards (esp. with Ironworks and Saboteur in the mix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tactician&lt;/strong&gt; - for combos, also to teach them to know what cards say (e.g. &quot;If you discarded at least one card...&quot;)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throne Room&lt;/strong&gt; - debatable. I'm big into combos :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added: If you're playing with Prosperity a lot, then I would replace &lt;strong&gt;City, Quarry/Bridge, Throne Room&lt;/strong&gt; with &lt;strong&gt;Venture, Bank, Grand Market&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T02:05:30.587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T02:05:30.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6387" CreationDate="2012-01-31T17:27:42.277" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2 space extension is generally regarded as very hard to cut and thus solid, providing at least 1 eye with various options to gain a lot more eyespace easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, invasions and attacks are still possible. The B1 move in your diagram &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; actually a standard invasion with the marked black stone around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 A possible invasion of two-space extension&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . 1 . . . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . O . . O . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Influence&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One usual aim of this move is to either create center influence like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Influence, part 1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . 2 1 . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B 9 W 3 6 W . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . 5 4 8 . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . 7 . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Influence, part 2&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . 5 . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . 4 O X 3 . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B X W X O W . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . 2 X O O . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . 1 X . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(B9 and the atari may be different on certain boards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Influence, result&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . X O . O . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B X W . O W . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . X X O O . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O X . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be good depending on the global situation. Of course, white gets super strong, so black should only consider this if there is no useful attack on the 2 space extension anyway and the center is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Base robbing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea is to use this invasion to steal eyespace and gain some territory. It is usual if there is a black stone on either side of the extension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Base robbing, simple variation&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . a 1 3 b . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . W 2 4 W . B . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A and B are miai to connect the stones out, so black can consider an outside move to attack - or he can firmly link up his 2 stones to either side to rid white of any sente moves near the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, white ends up with a solid, but eyeless group with good center access. Depending on the board, this can be good for either player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Base robbing, white resistance&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . 2 1 . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . W . . W . B . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, white may think about resisting like this. this move can be good, but usually black 1 is only played if black can follow up like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Base robbing, black counter&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O X . 1 a . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . W c b W . B . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . d . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A and B are miai now, so the black stones are out and white has a weaker shape than by playing C to begin with. In some cases, black plays the B-D exchange before B1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 White resistance, another idea&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X 2 . O . . O . X . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, white can try a kind-of-sente move instead of replying directly. If black answers the move, white can play more aggressively against the invasion stone. If black follows up the invasion, an exchange could take place. This should be considered carefully before invading at 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the board, white may dislike the invasion on the second line, and thus plays a tobi to strengthen her group:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Defend&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . e . . . . . . d . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . W . . W . B . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . a b c 1 . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of A, B, C are thinkable just as well, and in some cases a tsuke at D or E is reasonable, too. This requires some reading, as D and E tend to lead to a huge exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, keep in mind that base robbing can be beneficial to white on certain boards. That's one of the reasons white, instead of the second line invasion, an attack at black 1 or a is usual in this shape, too, as well as moves on top of B or C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Actual game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the actual game, white had some extra stones to the right, which changes the situation significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Simple answer&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . 3 1 4 . . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B 5 O 2 . O . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White could simply answer at W2, connecting firmly. Black cannot play 3 at 4 because then white would play 3 and thanks to the white stones on the right, black dies inside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus black has to connect out, allowing white to get a reasonable shape with the tiger mouth at 4 in sente. Black 5 is played on the third instead of the second line because it has far greater influence on the center and the strength of the white group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Strong answer&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . 2 1 . 5 . . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . B . O . 3 O 6 . Q X . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . 4 . . . . X , . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White can also consider the strong-hand descend at 2, blocking the connection out. Black will play 3 and 5, to which white avoids the self-destructing reply to the right of 5 and instead simply nobis at 6. Black is now forced to find a way to connect out or live locally  - I'll leave the tsumego as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Related joseki shape&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1 Simple answer&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . B . O . . O 3 . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this very common joseki shape white is supposed to have a very solid group with enough eyespace to be difficult to attack. However, with the marked black stone in place, the invasion of B1 is an astonishing threat. The details are too long to list here, but if white blocks at 2, black will play the tesuji of 3 and it is very hard for white to find an answer that doesn't lose half the group, base, and yose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Answering your further questions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 3: How strong is the two-space extension? In the initial situation where black&#xA;  invades at 1, what is the best white can expect to get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 space extension is stable. It is not alive locally, it is not strong, but it is stable in the sense of being connected and thus difficult to fiendishly attack. Prefer this extension when you don't like the idea of being split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1 Solid&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . X . . . . a 1 b . O . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X , . . . . . c . . . . . , X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, in this shape, a wide extension to A would immediately be invaded at B. White could think about playing 1 at C, aiming for a light shape, but that offers a range of difficult to handle invasions that you need to be comfortable with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, leep in mind that &quot;killing&quot; is not always the best answer to moves that are either unusual or bad. Sometimes letting the opponent live is the best punishment. Remember the idea of the sacrifice in the 'influence' section of this answer - in that case, maybe just go for center influence (connect instead of block) when the center is of more value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And contrarily, you'll be astonished how much dan players hate living sometimes. I remember a high dan friend of mind talking about a game he played against a pro: &quot;I lived everywhere by crawling on the second line. It was atrocious, I could not find a good way to die.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 4: I found myself at quite a lack of knowledge when it comes to defending&#xA;  such non-standard attacks, however, most resources (like SL) only cover the &#xA;  typical attacks. Is it worthwhile to invest a lot of time into learning how to deal&#xA;  with strange attacks? Or should one expect to get this simply by experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Midgame joseki as those presented in this answer are very useful. Either learn them by playing tons of games and remembering the best shapes, or look them up in books. I remember there was a pretty thorough discussion of the 2 space extension in &quot;Shape up!&quot; by  Charles Matthews. Eventually, as a dan player, you'll be forced to remember them from study though since (at least Western) books rarely cover deep variations for specific boards or new inventions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-01-31T17:40:37.330" LastActivityDate="2012-01-31T17:40:37.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2012-01-31T17:53:50.783" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Charles Matthews wrote an excellent book on this topic, coincidentally called &lt;strong&gt;Shape Up!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is available for free on the net, if you have a Gobase.org account simply grab it &lt;a href=&quot;http://gobase.org/studying/articles/matthews/shape_up/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, if not, Google should bring up something. To list a few of the ideas explained:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 1 of the book, &quot;Principles of development&quot;, covers basic terminology (table shape etc.), wedge weakness, empty triangles, eye shape, tactical aspects of connections, one point jumps and compound shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part &quot;Principles of engagement&quot; explains hane at the head of 2/3 stones, nose tesuji, bulges, the center of 3 stones, answers to attachments, open skirts and submarines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 3 &quot;Practical fighting&quot; deals with all kinds of cuts, light play, keima, peeps, various pincers, caps and  sector lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Part 4, &quot;Vital points and shape in the opening&quot;, 2 and 3 point extensions and their invasions, 3rd and 4th line and enclosures are discussed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final part talks about &quot;Theory&quot;, pretty advanced concepts like 3 instead of 1-2-3, miai, kikashi, probes and large distance jumps, haengma and sabaki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, this book can be understood by beginners (high DDK) and is still useful up to lower dan levels. All shapes explained are extremely common in actual play so studying this book is most rewarding. There are also several sets of tsumego to reflect on the chapters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly the amount of higher level books on advanced shape study is limited in the Western world. If you're capable of speaking Chinese, Japanese or Korean you'll find a vast amount of very high level books in Asian Go stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from joseki study and Asian books, you're pretty much out of luck regards of lecture material. Of course there are still some high level (Western) books and lectures but they are rarely focused on the idea of shape itself, so you'll have to scrape together what you find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you grow beyond the point where the typical Western shape books are of much use, the study of joseki is the main way to learn. Joseki are carefully crafted by professionals over time, and the shapes they incorporate are often very advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once study material has become difficult to get, you'll probably have connections to several sensei that will be able to help you out. Until then, let the basics become natural, and review your games to understand and learn from your shape mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-01T04:49:01.257" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T04:49:01.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7131" CreationDate="2012-02-01T06:15:01.120" Score="3" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paelleall's Summoner Ability reads (&lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt; mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrath of the Volcano&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your turn, choose the shortest path from your current tile to the Dungeon Entrance tile. &lt;strong&gt;All other heroes&lt;/strong&gt; within that path receive one wound marker. If multiple paths exist, choose 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly her ability should affect heroes that share a dungeon tile with her, or they wouldn't have noted &amp;quot;All other heroes.&amp;quot; Does reasoning follow that heroes on the Dungeon Entrance would be wounded as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this path inclusive of the start and end point?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T04:17:26.003" Title="Does Paelleall's Wrath of the Volcano ability affect Heroes on her tile and the Entrance Tile?" Tags="|dungeon-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6414" CreationDate="2012-02-01T19:39:34.930" Score="4" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ancient One named &lt;strong&gt;Ghatanothoa&lt;/strong&gt; has a power called &lt;strong&gt;Annihilating Gaze&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While Ghatanothoa stirs in his slumber, place the eight visage tokens facedown on this sheet. Each time an investigator gains 2 or more Clue tokens at once, he must turn a visage token faceup. If it has Ghatanothoa's face on it, he is devoured. If not, leave the token faceup. Once four visage tokens are faceup, turn them facedown and shuffle the visage tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm being overly pedantic, but it isn't clear what happens if Ghatanothoa's face is turned up and there are not yet 4 visage tokens face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the investigator is devoured, are all 8 tokens shuffled?  Is the next pick &quot;free&quot;?  I was unable to locate a clarification for this in the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T20:44:30.873" Title="Should I shuffle the Visage tokens after an investigator gets devoured?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-innsmouth-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6413" CreationDate="2012-02-01T19:49:47.180" Score="7" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finn Edwards&lt;/strong&gt; has a power called &lt;strong&gt;Holdout&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Phase:&lt;/strong&gt; Finn never has to discard items or lose money, even when he is knocked unconscious or driven insane. He must still pay costs as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also starts with a &lt;strong&gt;Bank Loan&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upkeep:&lt;/strong&gt; Roll a die. On a 1-3, pay $1 or discard all of your items along with this card. You cannot get another Bank Loan this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player controller Finn thought that he could opt not to pay the Bank Loan's upkeep instead choosing to discard all items and the Bank Loan.  With the Holdout power, all he lost was the Bank Loan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T20:32:18.470" Title="Does Finn Edwards have to pay to upkeep his Bank Loan?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-innsmouth-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6412" CreationDate="2012-02-01T20:32:18.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's absolutely correct (although there's also the additional penalty to the end-game scoring if you do that thing). You can always choose to default on a bank loan and lose all of your items. Since Finn doesn't have to discard items, he gets to keep everything. Basically, the Bank comes a-knockin' and all of his stuff is stashed away. It seems to me like this is just the situation a Holdout would be wanted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you could choose to interpret the 'pay $1 or discard' as a cost rather than a loss, which would prevent Finn's ability from protecting him. Much like the 'discard' section of the dynamite or the holy water is a cost of using the item, I could see an argument for the 'cost' of a bank loan being either paying $1 and repeating the process next turn or losing everything. But I've always seen it played that Finn's ability protects him from the Bank Loan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same question was asked &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efpag=2&amp;amp;efid=5&amp;amp;efcid=1&amp;amp;efidt=895#320201&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in the Kevin Wilson answers thread on the FFG forum (although the question wasn't answered by Kevin)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T20:32:18.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6411" CreationDate="2012-02-01T20:44:30.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 9 of the Innsmouth Horror rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember, leave visage tokens faceup after revealing them &#xA;  unless either Ghatanothoa’s face is revealed or there are &#xA;  four visage tokens faceup after revealing the new token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it doesn't explicitly tell you to turn them facedown and shuffle them, I'd say it's clear enough. So yes, no freebie clue harvesting after your poor friend gets devoured!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-02-01T20:44:30.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6417" CreationDate="2012-02-02T05:20:57.683" Score="11" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;People quickly grow out of games like Candy Land and Tic-Tac-Toe. They don't have any meaningful decisions to make. Then there are games like Monopoly, that have a few meaningful decisions to make, but those decisions are spread out over a game that will take a long time to end. Even popular gateway games like Settlers of Catan can have very long game lengths (2-3 hours), with most of the important decisions made at the start of the game, and only a few later (who to steal from, or what/who to trade with). On the other hand, Dominion has very short game times, with very compact meaningful decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you examine the top ranked games, would you find that the majority of them have a high meaningful decisions per hour density?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does too great a density decrease the fun of a game because of analysis paralysis?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T23:51:09.060" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T00:26:13.537" Title="Is &quot;meaningful decisions per hour&quot; a good measure for how fun a game might be?" Tags="|game-design|statistics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6415" CreationDate="2012-02-02T07:25:11.860" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Meaningful decisions per hour is one of several contributory factors, not the only one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other important components of &quot;fun&quot;, at least for me, include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high ratio of meaningful decisions to total decisions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interesting choices to make in those decisions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interesting setting/backstory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;visual appeal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;link of setting/backstory/theme to mechanics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interactivity of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important that meaningful decisions also be interesting - I find poker rather boring unless played for money (rather than just points), as the decisions are meaningful but boring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also, burying meaningful decisions amidst many minimally meaningful decisions renders the senses numb to the meaningful ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I'd rather play a good game with pretty pieces than a great game with ugly ones. I could easily make a Tsuro set, for example, but it wouldn't look nor feel as nice as the &quot;real thing,&quot; and hence would get played less. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The setting and theme, if presented well and with mechanics that tie to it, makes a game more enjoyable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interactivity of players also matters. If the game is all meaningful decisions, but my turn is neither affected by nor affects the other players, then the game is less fun than if the do to a correct degree. (Some games can be too interactive, however. An example of this, for many, is Tongiaki. In Tongiaki, each player's action can cascade to totally change the situation, so ability to plan ahead is limited.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T00:26:13.537" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T00:26:13.537" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6420" CreationDate="2012-02-02T11:04:37.087" Score="6" ViewCount="1814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, in Agricola, it would be crazy not to spend food on feeding your family - at a cost of 3 VPs per, it is difficult to imagine any situation where a food token could be worth more in the future than sparing you a Begging card now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, here's the corner case I'm currently in.  I have in my hand the Mendicant Occupation.  It seems quite likely that I'll go into the first Harvest with only 3 food tokens.  Is it acceptable for me to feed my Family with only 2 of the Food, taking 2 Begging cards (both of which I plan to ditch to the Mendicant later on), and saving 1 Food for the purposes of paying for a second Occupation in Round 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure you can't be forced to convert resources into food to feed your family if you don't want to, but it seems to me that the rules are slightly less clear on whether food must be eaten if you have it.  (I'm playing this game online, so it will be interesting to see if the option to not eat food is even given by the program...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T14:27:05.727" Title="Can You Choose To Beg When You Have Enough Food?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6419" CreationDate="2012-02-02T14:27:05.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm certain you always have the option to beg if you want to. The rules (p.4) say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who cannot or does not wish to produce the required Food must take a Begging card for each missing Food - players may not give up members of their family to avoid the need to feed them. At the end of the game, players lose 3 points for each begging card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your question is really asking what the meaning of &quot;produce&quot; is here. I don't see any evidence that it should mean produce in the sense of &quot;conversion&quot; rather than &quot;hand in the food&quot;. Giving the player the choice (&quot;does not wish&quot;) would be pretty narrow if you have to hand in food just because it happens to be stored as food tokens (as opposed to, say, raw grain). If you were really trying to utilise the Mendicant under such a rule, you could imagine all sorts of silly shenanigans to try and avoid fish, but keeping grain etc. which are against the flavour of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you point out, choosing to beg is almost always a terrible idea, but the Mendicant is definitely one place where this is a valid strategy. Even with the discard of two begging cards, the Mendicant is still pretty marginal - although it gives you flexibility, it's only a two food swing (or one food if it's not your first occupation!), after all. The other would be if you felt grabbing starting player or something was so crucial to your strategy that it would compensate for the loss (for example, in turn 13, if it was essential that you renovate a large house before the end of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T14:27:05.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-02T15:59:00.627" Score="4" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dwarfstar.brainiac.com/ds_barbarianprince.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barbarian Prince&lt;/a&gt; is a brutal paragraph based game. Your character must collect 500 gold and return to his homeland to win the game. Unfortunately, there are unfriendly guards, wolves, mobs of peasants, deadly ruins, and worse trying to end your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are your approximate chances of winning a game within 70 days?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best strategy to use when attempting to win?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T03:49:51.953" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T03:49:51.953" Title="How likely is it to win a game of Barbarian Prince?" Tags="|statistics|barbarian-prince|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6423" CreationDate="2012-02-02T18:47:57.070" Score="1" ViewCount="20510" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1594/boardgaming-online&quot;&gt;Boardgaming Online&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to play Carcassonne or Colonists (Settlers) of Catan online, either against other people, or against a computer opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to improve my skills so that I won't finish last when I play with my friends.&#xA;Where can I do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2425" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T20:58:12.937" Title="Where can I play Carcassonne or Colonists of Catan online?" Tags="|catan|carcassonne|online|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-02-09T09:44:25.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6422" CreationDate="2012-02-02T20:45:23.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brettspielwelt.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brettspielwelt&lt;/a&gt; hosts Carcassonne and Settlers (as well as a number of other games) which you can play against other people, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan.com&lt;/a&gt; hosts Settlers, again against other people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For playing against the computer, or other people, &lt;a href=&quot;http://jcloisterzone.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;JCloisterZone&lt;/a&gt; is a great, free, downloadable clone of Carcassonne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2012-02-02T20:45:23.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6728" CreationDate="2012-02-03T03:48:26.997" Score="4" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dwarfstar.brainiac.com/ds_barbarianprince.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barbarian Prince&lt;/a&gt; is a brutal paragraph based game. Your character must collect 500 gold and return to his homeland to win the game. Unfortunately, there are unfriendly guards, wolves, mobs of peasants, deadly ruins, and worse trying to end your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the best strategy to use when attempting to survive?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are your approximate chances of staying alive for 70 days?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T23:44:47.907" Title="How likely is it to survive a game of Barbarian Prince?" Tags="|statistics|barbarian-prince|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-03T04:47:28.257" Score="8" ViewCount="3580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although they can be mixed together, Dominion sets seem to have many cards that were designed to combo with other cards in the same set. Scout works better with the cards that are both victory cards and actions (Great Hall) or coins (Harem), rather than cards that are just Victory cards, such as those found in the basic set. Seaside's Treasure Map works really well with Warehouse's deck-digging ability. Cornucopia benefits from the Tournament Prizes that help diversify your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does mixing 3+ sets of Dominion together and selecting 10 random kingdom cards lead to games that are less focused on card interactions? In other words, does individual card quality become more of a driving factor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T06:50:20.503" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T17:17:31.057" Title="Does mixing Dominion expansions lessen the power of card combinations in random kingdom setups?" Tags="|dominion|expansions|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6428" CreationDate="2012-02-03T05:06:15.680" Score="9" ViewCount="5969" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/120d&quot;&gt;The Great Designer Search 2&lt;/a&gt;, one of the participants designed this card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CW15 - Improvised Shield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Instant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Prevent all damage that would be dealt to target creature this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTG designer Ken Nagle said this in his review:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;KEN: Nice enough. This kind of effect got better when we changed the&#xA;  combat rules in Magic 2010. You can gangblock and the creature with&#xA;  the Improvised Shield will protect everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Which rules (in the comp rules) make it work out this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example, say I attack with a 7/7 creature, and you block with a 3/3, 2/2, and 2/1. I arrange damage to the blockers in the same order. After blockers are declared, you cast &quot;Improvised Shield&quot; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2858&quot;&gt;Indestructible Aura&lt;/a&gt;, if you want a real-card example) on the 3/3. What will happen during the combat damage step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the blockers has or acquires a relevant protection ability, does the same thing happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T06:00:57.003" LastActivityDate="2018-05-17T03:21:56.060" Title="Does &quot;prevent all damage to target creature&quot; save the other creatures in a gang block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6425" CreationDate="2012-02-03T05:12:10.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added: A fundamental property of &lt;em&gt;Dominion&lt;/em&gt; is card interaction, so to claim (not that anyone has) that a certain expansion doesn't &lt;strong&gt;increase&lt;/strong&gt; the amount of positive interaction between cards/sets would be quite a criticism of said expansion. It's possible, but I haven't seen it yet. (Of course, Alchemy does create a sort of artificial exterior game with the potions, and some dislike it for this reason. But I digress). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I should have said from the start is that &lt;em&gt;every set is designed to make games more interesting, especially when combined with other sets&lt;/em&gt;. Also, the main way that I have developed strategy over the years is to look at a (random) set of 10 kingdom cards, and start looking at the interactions. As you'll see below, you can use (the cards that you add to your hand with) &lt;strong&gt;Scout&lt;/strong&gt; for two major purposes: trashing, and discarding. So when Scout is in play, I quickly (?) decide if either of these is a viable option given the other cards out there, and then do the same for all the other cards and their main uses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the combo:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Golem&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;Tactician&lt;/strong&gt;, then &lt;strong&gt;Library/Minion&lt;/strong&gt;/etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other examples, but they aren't fresh in my mind (I quit playing after 2000 something games on isotropic, and 1000 on BSW...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&#xA;While I stand by my answer, it seems that the best answer to this question would involve, at the very minimum, an analysis of how every card interacts with [all the other] cards from &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; expansions. At worst, we'd have to consider all 10^14 possible sets of kingdom cards! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my analysis of &lt;strong&gt;Scout&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scout&lt;/strong&gt;: Like the Apothecary, Scout can be used to add 3-4 cards to your hand (which may not have that great of a direct value - e.g. coppers/estates). Then you can combo (for different reasons, effects on your deck) this with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambassador. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warehouse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vault (+ Tunnel = BOOM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apprentice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hamlet &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horse Traders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Young Witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hunting Party&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crossroads&lt;/strong&gt; (!! Forgot about this one...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, with &lt;strong&gt;Hoard&lt;/strong&gt;, the strategy of using Scout to get cards in your hand &lt;em&gt;for the purpose of trashing&lt;/em&gt; opens up more possibilities. Scout is a good counter to Rabble. Scout might be the only +Action in the set, so then your only option to net an action would be to combine this with Golem, KC, or Throne Room. This is, of course, the last thing that crosses my mind when analyzing a set of 10 cards in-game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's &lt;strong&gt;Scheme&lt;/strong&gt;, which in itself opens up combos with most Action cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Analysis of &lt;strong&gt;Black Market&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides gaining a card that no other player can have, Black Market opens up a unique set of possibilities due to its &lt;em&gt;extra buy phase&lt;/em&gt;. So during the execution of Black Market, you can [put into] play all of the treasures in your hand, possibly leaving you with 1-2 Action cards. In any case, &lt;strong&gt;you still have the +$ to spend from those treasures!&lt;/strong&gt; If the other cards are, say, Library or Minion, then you can draw a bunch more cards and have a longer turn. If you are left with a Tactician, then you can use that to start your next turn with 10 cards, and &lt;em&gt;you still get to spend the money that was played during the Black Market!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T14:43:10.130" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T14:43:10.130" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6426" CreationDate="2012-02-03T05:46:40.283" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No; you must &lt;em&gt;assign&lt;/em&gt; lethal damage in blocking order, but this doesn't take into account effects that prevent, redirect, or alter damage when it's actually dealt.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1. First, the defending player declares blockers. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. To declare blockers, the defending player follows the steps below, in order. If at any point during the declaration of blockers, the defending player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &amp;quot;Handling Illegal Actions&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.2. Second, for each attacking creature that's become blocked, the active player announces that creature's damage assignment order, which consists of the creatures blocking it in an order of that player's choice. (During the combat damage step, &lt;strong&gt;an attacking creature can't assign combat damage to a creature that's blocking it unless each creature ahead of that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage.&lt;/strong&gt;) This turn-based action doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;bunch of other stuff happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.5. Fifth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, yes, there is an opportunity to play prevention spells after blockers are assigned and assignment order has been decided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the Oracle text for Indestructible Aura reads: &lt;strong&gt;Prevent all damage that would be dealt to target creature this turn.&lt;/strong&gt; Let's use that on the first creature in the assignment order. Sounds like a plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per 615.6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.6. If damage that would be dealt is prevented, it never happens. A modified event may occur instead, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can't be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per 509.2, the rest of the creatures in the assignment order can't be assigned damage unless the creature ahead of it has been assigned lethal damage. You might think &amp;quot;hey, all that damage is prevented, and therefore it never happened.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But — wait a sec! We skipped the damage assignment part of the rules. This is the long and confusing but most important rule in this situation. Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature. If two or more creatures are blocking it, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocked creature to divide its combat damage. &lt;strong&gt;However, it can't assign combat damage to a creature that's blocking it unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage.&lt;/strong&gt; When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that's being assigned during the same combat damage step, &lt;strong&gt;but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that's actually dealt.&lt;/strong&gt; An amount of damage that's greater than a creature's lethal damage may be assigned to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: The damage assignment order of an attacking Vastwood Gorger (a 5/6 creature) is Pride Guardian (a 0/3 creature) then Llanowar Elves (a 1/1 creature). Vastwood Gorger can assign 3 damage to the Guardian and 2 damage to the Elves, 4 damage to the Guardian and 1 damage to the Elves, or 5 damage to the Guardian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: The damage assignment order of an attacking Vastwood Gorger (a 5/6 creature) is Pride Guardian (a 0/3 creature) then Llanowar Elves (a 1/1 creature). During the declare blockers step, the defending player casts Giant Growth targeting Pride Guardian, which gives it +3/+3 until end of turn. Vastwood Gorger must assign its 5 damage to the Guardian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example: The damage assignment order of an attacking Vastwood Gorger (a 5/6 creature) is Pride Guardian (a 0/3 creature) then Llanowar Elves (a 1/1 creature). During the declare blockers step, the defending player casts Mending Hands targeting Pride Guardian, which prevents the next 4 damage that would be dealt to it. Vastwood Gorger can assign 3 damage to the Guardian and 2 damage to the Elves, 4 damage to the Guardian and 1 damage to the Elves, or 5 damage to the Guardian.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: The damage assignment order of an attacking Enormous Baloth (a 7/7 creature) is Trained Armodon (a 3/3 creature) that already has 2 damage marked on it, then Foriysian Brigade (a 2/4 creature that can block an additional creature), then Silverback Ape (a 5/5 creature). The damage assignment order of an attacking Durkwood Boars (a 4/4 creature) is the same Foriysian Brigade, then Goblin Piker (a 2/1 creature). Among other possibilities, the active player may have the Baloth assign 1 damage to the Armodon, 1 damage to the Brigade, and 5 damage to the Ape, and have the Boars assign 3 damage to the Brigade and 1 damage to the Piker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You prevent all damage to that target creature but the rest of the damage assigned to other creatures isn't prevented. In the middle of rule 510.1c it says that &lt;em&gt;the attacker does not have to take into account any abilities that change the amount of damage actually dealt.&lt;/em&gt; If the attacker chooses, he &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; assign all the damage to the first creature and it all would be prevented, but &lt;em&gt;he doesn't have to take the prevention effect into account&lt;/em&gt; so that would under most circumstances be sub-optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, the attacker doesn't have to assign more than three damage to your first creature. Three damage is lethal damage. Among other options, his best choice would be to assign 3 damage to the first creature, 2 to the second, and two to the third, killing the 2/2 and 2/1 blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. If this is an accurate quote, Ken got it wrong in 2010. Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule change announcement&lt;/a&gt; in 2009. From that post:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ... what is &amp;quot;lethal damage&amp;quot;? For the purposes of damage assignment, &amp;quot;lethal damage&amp;quot; is the amount of damage necessary for a creature to be destroyed, ignoring all abilities and damage prevention effects. In other words, it's that creature's toughness minus any damage that's already been dealt to it or that is simultaneously being assigned to it. It doesn't matter whether that creature has protection, is indestructible, will prevent the next 8 damage that would be dealt to it, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T13:25:48.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6425" CreationDate="2012-02-03T07:44:09.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, I have to say yes, somewhat. The cards in a given expansion go together thematically and seem to often be selected with certain combos in mind, which of course you will see more often if you play with just that expansion. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, you'll see those same combos again and again if you just play with the same expansion and you will miss out on some seriously good combos that may never occur to you until you lay the cards out... and often you won't really see them until you're opponent is capitalizing them already. I continue to enjoy Dominion because I continue to see new combos in mixing expansions. I don't think anything in just base/Intrigue could surprise me anymore, but just the other day I learned how awesome Bridge is with Native Village. Hinterlands seems to have cards that play especially well with other sets. I would say the only real exception is Alchemy, where buying a potion is a lot more of a liability if there are only one or two cards with potions in their prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would encourage you to mix sets, but I do think you'll have better games if you don't go completely random. It's nice to do a sanity check and make sure you have a decent price distribution, if there's a reaction it's paired with at least one attack, etc. If you go purely random, good games will definitely be fewer and farther between, but small adjustments can go a long way to making good games that you'd never see limiting your sets. (Veto mode on Isotropic is a good example of a small adjustment to random that makes a big difference in playability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit) The reason my first answer is &quot;yes&quot; is because of the two condition you put on the situation: &quot;random kingdom cards&quot; and &quot;3+ sets&quot;. I say yes because for pretty much every card, if you could list the set of cards that &lt;em&gt;really work well&lt;/em&gt; with it by some metric, I'm guessing that cards in that combo set make up a higher proportion of its own expansion than they do overall. And thus by selecting cards from 3 or sets you decrease probability of selecting another card that works well with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, when playing the game physically, not on a computer, I can rarely be bothered to get out more than 3 boxes, though usually 2 or 3 is what I play with, and I think that's just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T17:17:31.057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T17:17:31.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6431" CreationDate="2012-02-03T08:02:30.683" Score="5" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Stone Age as a gift and I've played it one time so far. But I have a question about how the tools work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They way we played from how I understood the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player places two people and decides to use 1 value-1 tool to gather&#xA;  wood in the forest. Thus the player rolls 3 dice (2 for people, one&#xA;  for tool). He rolls 3+4+5 = 12. Divides that by 3 and takes 4 wood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This quickly resulted in not having enough dice to handle a single job. Considering you could place 5 people and use 8-value tools which means you'd need 13 dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read online that other people play this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player places two people on wood. Rolls two dice, gets 2+3=5. Then&#xA;  decides to use 1 value-1 tool to up his sum to 6 which lets him get 2&#xA;  wood instead of 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which way is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2255" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T21:51:06.107" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T21:51:06.107" Title="Clarification about Tools in Stone Age" Tags="|stone-age|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6430" CreationDate="2012-02-03T09:15:25.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last one is correct: you decide how many guys you send to the forest. You roll the dice and &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; decide to add one or more tools to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tools can't be &quot;broken&quot; (a tool with value of 3 can't be used for 2 in the woods and 1 in the mountain), but you can choose any of your tools for a given place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T09:15:25.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6425" CreationDate="2012-02-03T14:12:37.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, adding more expansions will allow more interesting combinations to emerge. Scout is one of the notable exceptions; in fact, Donald X. (the creator of the game) mentioned that Scout is one of the cards that wasn't as well balanced outside of Intrigue because it was made earlier and he was still improving in his ability to develop cards (source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=1412.msg23271#msg23271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=1412.msg23271#msg23271&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are some combinations within each set: you note Seaside's Treasure Map/Warehouse combo. But similar combinations exist outside of the set: consider Treasure Map (Seaside) and Stables (Hinterlands). The more you play the game, the better you get at recognizing the strategic choices between sets, as well as within sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T14:12:37.510" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6434" CreationDate="2012-02-03T14:22:37.947" Score="7" ViewCount="15145" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use the standard rules, where the number tokens are laid out on the board in a pattern (small letters are below the pips), which seating position has the greatest odds of receiving the most goods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assume all players are trying to receive the most goods, with no consideration of good type.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assume you are using the normal rules for the first two rounds, I.E. The first player places a settlement, followed by the second player clockwise until all players have placed a settlement. Then the last player places a settlement, and the second settlement placement continues counterclockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assume a 4 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assume the predetermined board setup for beginners which is supposed to be well balanced (extra points if you solve this for a random resource placement).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T14:43:30.173" Title="In Settlers of Catan, what seat position is the best for odds of recieving any resource?" Tags="|catan|openings|statistics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6433" CreationDate="2012-02-03T15:02:23.983" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Key assumption: Every player places both of their initial settlements according to what will get them the most resources (so we don't have people going for port combos, weird 12/2 superstitions, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just downloaded the rules and have the Beginner's Setup in front of me. If you don't, then this won't make any sense!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all agree that it suffices to add the number of dots and use this to determine if one spot is better than another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First takes 10/5/8 (Brick/Ore/Sheep) = 12 dots&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second takes 6/9/3 (Wood/Sheep/Ore) = 11 dots. This can be interchanged with P3's move&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third takes 8/10/4 (Wheat/Sheep/Wood) = 11 dots. Again, P2 could have done this. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth takes 9/5/10 = 11 dots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth takes 6/5/11 = 11 dots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third takes 6/4/3 or 6/4/11 = 10 dots. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second takes... &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here I will stop, since I have to go to class. But one thing is clear: Player one has a &lt;strong&gt;one dot advantage&lt;/strong&gt; after the first placement, and Player 4 has twenty-two dots after his second placement. And it looks like The second player, on his second placement, will have AT MOST an eight-dot location. Since the first player would then have an eight-dot location (at best), his total is maximum 20 dots, where third has 21 and fourth has 22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, &lt;strong&gt;player 4 emerges with most resources&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edited, as I was having trouble keeping track of which spaces were available)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T19:23:57.430" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T19:23:57.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6437" CreationDate="2012-02-03T15:43:59.593" Score="18" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people complain about the cost of designer board games. With most board games near the $50 mark, and some approaching $100, they might look at the price of a movie ticket, DVD, or video game and think that this is an expensive hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think is the approximate cost of playing board games per hour of enjoyment when compared to other forms of entertainment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-09-25T12:20:20.080" LastActivityDate="2018-09-25T12:20:20.080" Title="How does the cost of designer board games compare to other forms of entertainment?" Tags="|pricing|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-03-08T08:23:26.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6438" CreationDate="2012-02-03T15:57:55.663" Score="4" ViewCount="3201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get back into this game, but the real appeal for me is the collecting aspect, especially trading cards and not knowing what to expect from a foil pack. It seems there are a lot of different options for online play, but what is the best way to replicate the experience of real-world collecting, deck building and playing online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could perhaps detail some of the most popular methods of play and the kind of features they have, it would be appreciated. I don't imagine there's a client that supports all the cards yet? It would appear the only way to build a collection like in real life would be to play the official Magic: Online game. But it would be ultra swell if there were some free way of collecting cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2363" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T17:20:18.687" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T17:31:32.023" Title="What's the current state of Magic: The Gathering online play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2012-02-03T16:25:20.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an aging grog... For me, I judge a game based upon player-hours of play. At about $1 per player-hour. Same rate I've used since the late 80's...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at that rate, the $30 supplement I just got for TTR/TTRE has some way to go. 1st two plays were 4p @ 2.5h and 3p @ 3h - so far, $19 of the $30. One more large play should do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion and Intrigue got enough time to &quot;pay off&quot;... and did so rapidly, even tho most were 2p games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The $50 Cargo Noir is close. At 1.5 to 2h per play, and 3-4p per play, I've gotten 7 plays out of it since mid Dec.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I will say, I never adjusted for inflation, and find most movies on DVD today not worth the $1/person/hour, so that metric still works for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might, however, consider a more movie based metric. A movie is $5 at matinee, per person, and typically 1.5 to 2 hours.  If we add the anticipation and post-movie discussions, we can justify calling them 3 hours. That calls for $2 per person-hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note also that I'm 56 hours in on a $50 videogame (Skyward Sword) and 30 in on another (Ocarina of Time 3D), so that $1-$2 per player-hour is quite well holding. Mario-Cart, at that rate, paid off in the first week: 10 hours, 3 players, two days; $20 paid for the disk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update for Dec 9 2012: The latest supplement I got for TTR paid off with another $12 of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update for July 2013: All the mentioned games have since paid off. And the Wii has paid off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:29:29.810" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:29:29.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6436" CreationDate="2012-02-03T17:21:25.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two typical ways to play MTG online: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Digital/MagicOnline.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official client&lt;/a&gt;, where you spend money and build a collection of cards, just like with paper cards, except virtual. The community is very strong. &lt;strike&gt;The last number I seem to recall was that&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamespy.com/articles/818/818114p1.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTGO creates about as much revenue as the global paper MTG&lt;/a&gt; (and that was back in 2007), so the online player population is about as large as the offline population, except everyone is in one place, so it is infinitely easier to find a game at any given time. Managing large collections and building decks from it is of course also much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way is to try one of the countless free clients out there, some of which provide rules checking. I'm not well informed of that scene, but a quick google search should get you started in no time. Of course, there is not much of a collecting aspect there, because you just put together your deck from the whole pool and play, but OTOH it's absolutely free, financially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for having a collection aspect AND doing so more or less free: AFAIK you could do that in the official online game. Money buys you tokens, and tokens buy you cards and entry fees to tournaments. In tournaments, you can win tokens. So, as the legend goes, if you're good enough, you can &quot;go infinite&quot;, basically playing and increasing your collection for free. The existance of such players has been doubted, however, and I've never played MTGO, so I wouldn't know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T17:31:32.023" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T17:31:32.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6443" CreationDate="2012-02-03T17:46:50.207" Score="6" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received a Mancala set hand-made from Africa.  It has an unusual set up, and I was hoping someone knew the rules for playing on this set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is an arrangement of circle and square pits in a board.  There are 4 rows and 8 columns arranged as follows (o = circle pit, x = square pit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;oooooooo&#xA;oooxoooo&#xA;ooooxooo&#xA;oooooooo&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone seen a board like this before?  Does anyone know if there are rules for playing on a board like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-03T21:55:47.103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T22:11:14.550" Title="What are the rules for playing with this unusual Mancala board?" Tags="|mancala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2012-02-03T19:21:15.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My copies of Splotter's &lt;em&gt;Indonesia&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Duck Dealer&lt;/em&gt; have long since paid for themselves, and paid for my copies of &lt;em&gt;Roads &amp;amp; Boats&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Antiquity&lt;/em&gt; (which haven't yet, but I anticipate they shall eventually). My general rule of thumb is that a game needs three to five fun plays in it before I really feel like it's been worth the money, even with the cheaper end of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not just a matter of hours of play, it's also important to factor in that the time I spent playing game &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt;, I did not get to spend playing game &lt;em&gt;Y&lt;/em&gt;. The few hours I spent playing &lt;em&gt;Shadows Over Camelot&lt;/em&gt; I will never get back at any price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T19:21:15.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2012-02-03T20:43:26.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing how most Video Games start at $60 for standard versions it puts it on par with the price of a designer board game. Same would be true for 2 people to go to the movies with popcorn+soda mixed in. DVDs are probably the only case where the cost to entry is lower than a board game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to calculate the cost of a game vs the number of times I am likely to play it. Settlers in all it's variants, Ticket to Ride, and even Mah Jong for me have paid for themselves many times over. Dominion I have played only a couple of times but feel I got value out of it. Revolution was hot enough for the number of plays I had to make it seem like a worth wile purchase even tho I haven't played it for like 8 months now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a key factor you have to work into the price in the intangible entertainment value. When you sit around a board talking with your friends there is more social interaction than in most movies, DVDs, or video games unless they are specifically party games. It's hard to put a price tag on good conversation, jokes, and potential stories you will tell for years about what happened while playing a game versus going to a movie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T20:43:26.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6422" CreationDate="2012-02-03T20:58:12.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an iPhone/iPad there are &quot;official&quot; Carcassonne and Catan clients there. Carcassonne allows for Internet play through using your Game Center account. It will also match you up with random opponents or allow for local wi-fi play. Catan does not have internet play but does have fairly decent computer opponents. Both versions have upgrades for expansions, tile sets, etc. The Catan client is supposed to be getting the Cities and Knights expansion soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just do a search in the App Store for each one to find out more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T20:58:12.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6439" CreationDate="2012-02-03T22:11:14.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you've got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bao_%28mancala_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bao board&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UwBGw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bao, an East African Mancala, is the only known Mancala to make use of square pits as well as round ones. These are called &lt;em&gt;nyumba&lt;/em&gt; (house), one for each player, and marks your starting position. There are also some extra rules for the &lt;em&gt;nyumba&lt;/em&gt; in the main variation &lt;em&gt;Bao la kiswahili&lt;/em&gt;. The Wikipedia article I've linked to has detailed instructions for both simplified (&lt;em&gt;Bao la kujifunza&lt;/em&gt;) and &lt;em&gt;Bao la kiswahili&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the same board, and ignore the shape of the special pits, to play other four-rank Mancala variants. One example would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omweso&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Omweso&lt;/a&gt;. Enjoy the cool board!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T22:11:14.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2012-02-03T23:19:19.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me personally, dollar per hour calculations aren't useful. I usually peg costs to something else. Recently, I've been using Chipotle burritos. When I look at a $50 game, I determine whether I would rather have that, or 7 burritos over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as being an expensive hobby, I'll quote someone from BoardGameGeek, on the MSRP of Antiquity being $125: &quot;I would pay $125 for two sheets of plain white paper if they consistently provided the kind of enjoyment I get from Antiquity.&quot; Value is relative. It's certainly cheaper than skiing (for instance) and the right game should be playable dozens, if not hundreds, of times, which most single player video games and movies can't boast for most people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is an expensive hobby if you need to have new games all the time, but most people don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-03T23:19:19.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2467" CreationDate="2012-02-04T20:25:19.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, most people will organize their tiles in some fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By watching both were they put the drawn tile, and where they pull their discard from, you can draw inferences on what they have in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By looking at their set of discards, coupled to their hand organization you can often tell if they've changed hand goal mid-hand. (For example, starting off going for a set of 3 chous and  a pung, and deciding instead to start grabbing matches, instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, you need to keep an eye on the discards to prevent yourself from trying to make pungs  from numbers which already have been discarded twice (tho' that's basic to mah jongg, many novices overlook that). Often, I've found novices will hold a couple single tiles in order to make a specific combination hand, waiting to draw a second and take the 3rd from a discard, only to show grave disappointment when someone else discards the 2nd tile; it's not uncommon for them to visibly react, then discard the same tile. The more frustrated their look, the more likely they are working some fixated strategy and/or are close to going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T20:25:19.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6449" CreationDate="2012-02-04T22:03:35.847" Score="13" ViewCount="7604" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a trade in Settlers of Catan, there is no official rule encouraging or prohibiting making a promise (to make a certain type of trade or perform some kind of action in the future) during a current trade. Assuming the group you play with decides to allow such promises, what mechanisms can be used to ensure &quot;future trades&quot; occurs smoothly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I provide one such answer below that we've used in many games, but I'm totally open to suggestions for improvements on my answer, and/or alternative play-tested systems developed by other Catan enthusiasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: A similar question was asked that could be considered a duplicate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1698/what-are-common-contracts-in-catan&quot;&gt;What are common contracts in Catan?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See my comment below which advocates keeping this new question open and possibly closing the old question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2019-10-19T17:30:04.967" Title="Promised future trades as part of legal trades? (Solution described, alternatives/comments requested)" Tags="|catan|variants|trading|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2012-02-04T22:12:24.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a simple way of doing &quot;future trades which we have successfully used in well over 100 games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All Catan rules must be obeyed (trades only on your own turn, at&#xA;least 1 card offered by both parties)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a legal trade is made, a future trade can be included as part of&#xA;the deal. So you can offer a brick and a &quot;future trade&quot; in return for&#xA;a wheat (you would only do this if you desperately needed that wheat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The terms of the &quot;future trade&quot; must be made clear (i.e. The player&#xA;granting the future trade agrees to trade a single resource of the&#xA;type to be specified at the time the future trade is made in return&#xA;for any resource that the recipient wants to give. This particular&#xA;trade is the standard contract that is used for over 80% of future&#xA;trades in our games)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The recipient of the future trade can cash it in at any time it is&#xA;legal for the 2 players who entered the agreement to make a trade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Catan rules do not have a mechanism for enforcing future trades to occur as promised. However, we always point out to people considering reneging on the deal that if they do so, they are unlikely to be a party in future trades in any future game, as nobody would be able to trust them. For this reason, every future trade I've ever been a part of has been honored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that for experienced Catan players, future trades are very powerful and can be used for both offensive and defensive purposes. After seeing future trades employed just 2 or 3 times, most players learn to greatly fear and respect granting a future trade to one of the better Catan players at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-02-04T22:12:24.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2012-02-05T03:05:18.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is too long for a comment, here's the way that I have played...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can promise almost anything in a trade: future cards (not necessarily meeting a minimum one card per transaction rule...I.e. they could just be forked over), future trades, future protection from robber, future placement choice of robber, etc. &#xA;We have also introduced goods/services outside of the game on rare occasion (and this is why I don't okay with my married friends anymore!)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method of enforcement is peer pressure. Usually the creditor must remember/remind the debtor of the debt, at least as soon as it could be repaid. &#xA;This is also how we enforce other house rules (e.g. Reroll all 7's on each player's first turn, reroll every third consecutive instance of a number, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other mechanic would be to make the rules &lt;em&gt;de jure&lt;/em&gt;, informing each player that you are playing with amended rules, and having a written copy of your house rules available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T03:05:18.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6453" CreationDate="2012-02-05T05:02:55.230" Score="6" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;p&gt;While multiplayer board games can give you the enjoyment of hanging out with your friends and family, and all the social benefits you reap from those kinds of interactions face to face, instead of being in front of a computer screen...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What benefits does a physical implementation of a board game offer a solo player, that cannot be better implemented in software? (Is there something that software cannot implement better?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all those single player game enthusiast, what reason would you play a physical version of a solitaire game, if a computer implementation existed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Please no &quot;It doesn't require batteries&quot; comments)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T03:32:34.420" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T22:29:36.007" Title="Do physical implementations of single player board games have any advantages over their electronic counterparts?" Tags="|computers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2012-02-05T06:42:00.920" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this really applies to all games, not just single-player ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Computer versions have limited interfaces: small screen, limited controls.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the biggest reason for me. It's pretty much impossible, with current technology, for a computer game to provide a comfortable view of a table-sized board and components, or for it to make it really easy to grab a small object out of that landscape. It's a bit of an extreme example, but take a game like Arkham Horror (which can be played solo in various ways). Imagine dealing with that on a computer screen, even a huge one. (There's actually a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Module:Arkham_Horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vassal module&lt;/a&gt; for it - the interface definitely could be improved a lot, but it still gives you an idea of the issues faced.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physical versions are more intuitive and satisfying.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when things are of a size that's possible to fit on a screen, I usually find that &quot;physical interfaces&quot; much more comfortable. There's just something about physically seeing and moving objects, and having at least a little bit of a third dimension to them, that makes it a lot easier on my mind. I'm often frustrated by a feeling that things are somehow trapped in two dimensions on a screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physical games are easier to customize.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's for whatever reason an issue with a game, it's a lot easier to fix it by drawing on a card or adding some more tokens if it's a physical game, or just changing the rules in a way that a computer version might not let you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Board games have been optimized as board games.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bit of a circular nature to the question. These games were designed to be physical, trying to take advantage of everything there is to offer in the format, and to minimize disadvantages. Electronic games are a different format, and hypothetical optimal games in that format (even confining ourselves to a similar category, turn-based things, and so on) will not end up being the same games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to suggest that these reasons always justify choosing a physical game - there are a lot of things computers can do that physical games can't (e.g. instantly shuffle an enormous deck) - but that seems to be outside the scope of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T22:05:35.017" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T22:05:35.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2012-02-05T08:51:28.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three things that physical solo games have that computer implementations don't:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The larger interface&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tactile interaction (the feel of the bits, the ability to handle them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the ability to houserule as seen fit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, if you have ever seen children with boardgames they don't know or don't like, they will gleefully repurpose the pieces... and create new games from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T08:51:28.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6467" CreationDate="2012-02-05T09:07:53.670" Score="15" ViewCount="3321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola is my favourite boardgame and I'd love to reach a level where I could call myself a master of it.  However, having found a place to play it online and gotten a lot more games in, I've been finding myself a little frustrated by the random elements of the game, which are few in number but can have an enormous impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, I'm talking about the Family Growth spaces that become available in Stages II and V.  It seems to me that if you're the only player planning ahead for room building and Family Growth becomes available in Round 5, you can get a substantial advantage in terms of extra actions by having a third person to use early.  However, if Family Growth doesn't show up until Round 7, the other players have more time to play catch-up (and reap the benefits of having sown fields or obtained a breeding pair of sheep before the first Harvest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then this happens again with the Family Growth Without Space action.  It feels like someone getting this at the start of Round 12 can really influence the way the endgame plays out, such that there's often a big race to grab Starting Player in Round 11.  But if by chance Plow &amp;amp; Sow is revealed instead, dreams can easily be crushed - especially as the starting player typically then changes before Round 13!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best strategy for playing Agricola in order to maximise your chances of doing well whatever order the action spaces become available?  Is there a &quot;middle-ground&quot; approach that allows you to do well whether or not the ostensibly more powerful actions show up early?  Or in the end is it better just to roll the metaphorical dice and take your chances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:07:22.390" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T18:32:13.517" Title="How To Mitigate The Random Factor In Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2093" CreationDate="2012-02-05T15:17:18.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Should curses be available &lt;em&gt;for purchase&lt;/em&gt; ?&quot; - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common scenario for purchasing curses (in a game where they aren't otherwise gained) is in a two-player game where &lt;em&gt;buying all (at most) ten of them would end the game, resulting in a win for the player who does so&lt;/em&gt;. Usually this requires some/all of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Watchtower&lt;/strong&gt; in hand, so you can trash them immediately. (Note: I was about to put &lt;strong&gt;Trader&lt;/strong&gt; here also, but that doesn't &lt;em&gt;trash&lt;/em&gt; the curses; you just don't get a curse...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Talisman&lt;/strong&gt; in hand, so buying a curse gets you an extra.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Multiple buys.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This (&quot;scooping&quot; the game) frequently happens when one or both players in a two-player game are buying-up all of a few kingdom cards (e.g. &lt;strong&gt;Fishing Village, Bridge, City&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T15:17:18.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="206" CreationDate="2012-02-05T15:38:19.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning that the Bureaucrat is also effective when combined with other Attack cards. Of course, you'll need extra (+) actions to play both Bureaucrat and one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swindler&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saboteur&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jester&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also be very frustrating to have [Nobles, Throne Room, three treasures] in hand when a Bureaucrat is played...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-02-05T15:38:19.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6477" CreationDate="2012-02-06T00:00:27.267" Score="5" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day, when playing Battlestar Galactica, we had all (bar the CAG) been brigged, and someone drew the crisis &lt;em&gt;Return to Duty&lt;/em&gt; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Turn 5 Crisis: Return to Duty&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CAG Chooses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Any character on Galactica with piloting in his skill set may immediately launch himself in a viper. Then: Basestars Launch Raiders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Basestars Attack Galactica&#xA;  Raiders Activate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the CAG pick the top one and get the character out of the brig? We ruled no, as it made it too easy, but it does sort of make sense to me (and comes with its own downside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-06T16:22:27.427" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T04:19:37.347" Title="Will Return to Duty get someone out of the Brig?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6460" CreationDate="2012-02-06T00:02:47.310" Score="13" ViewCount="20548" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the rule of not paying rent if you aren't asked for it, in the rules of &lt;strong&gt;Monopoly&lt;/strong&gt;? Or is this something that people have made up? When is this ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T10:31:58.810" Title="What if I forget to pay rent?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6459" CreationDate="2012-02-06T00:13:36.593" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm#payingrent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;, property owners must ask for the rent before the &lt;strong&gt;player after the&lt;/strong&gt; next player rolls the dice or they forfeit the rent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The owner may not collect the rent if they fail to ask for it before the second player following throws the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the players are labelled A to D, and A should pay rent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A ... B .x. C ... D&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lessor should request rent before C throws the dice, at the position marked X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2020-06-14T10:31:58.810" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T10:31:58.810" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6498" CreationDate="2012-02-06T02:26:47.840" Score="9" ViewCount="1434" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Korean-Japanese player I occasionally play Mahjong with insists that it's okay for the next player to take a tile from the wall and contemplate it while the previous player hasn't yet discarded. She keeps pushing players to do so to move the game along speedily. That obviously clashes with &lt;em&gt;chī&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;pong&lt;/em&gt; calls sometimes, at which point she simply &quot;rolls back time&quot; to accommodate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this practice actually officially allowed or encouraged, in any of the Mahjong cultures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T06:37:15.633" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T06:37:15.633" Title="Is it allowed for the next player to take the next tile while the current player hasn't finished his move yet?" Tags="|mahjong|etiquette|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6481" CreationDate="2012-02-06T09:14:46.517" Score="10" ViewCount="7467" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Game of Thones&lt;/em&gt;, one can send attacking troops to a distant region in one order with a chain of ships.  Does this also apply to support orders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, can I support a combat with land troops in an otherwise non-adjacent region if I can connect the two regions with ships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T11:38:17.327" Title="Can you support through ships in Game of Thrones?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2012-02-06T10:37:13.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main form of &quot;future trades&quot; we had tended to employ in the past is based on harbours, where if I have, say, a sheep harbour where I can trade 2:1, then somebody with a large supply of excess sheep may trade them to me in pairs on the condition that I use my harbour to swap them at a better rate for some other resource that I will then trade back to them on the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone cold on this tactic since it tends to get used excessively and dominate trading too much for my tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2398" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T10:37:13.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6455" CreationDate="2012-02-06T14:30:49.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spaces on Agricola are designed to give the game variation and chance.  You don't know when you're going to get a Family Growth or not, same as not knowing if you'll get Fences first turn or fourth turn, which can sometimes hamper strategies, though the early game isn't as critical as people are just starting to get resources.  I feel this is what makes the game fun and helps to make it a dynamic play each time I play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for some suggestions, what I usually end up doing in game, when I have a win condition in mind and I'm working for it, is expecting the action I want to flip up first in the phase I want it to.  Say you're trying to maximize everything and plan for your house expansion and then family growth to start getting that extra action.  If that's what you're going for, house expansion should be done well before you get that far and you should have a food source ready to feed your third person before you get to the year that has Family Growth.  Then, you adjust your tactics accordingly.  Don't expect to have the third person right away, but plan for it to happen the first round.  Watch what other's are doing.  If they have expansion already, then all of you are getting ready for that spot and it's a matter of who's going to hold First Player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T14:30:49.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6455" CreationDate="2012-02-06T14:38:45.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two responses come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing on a physical board, and with people who are willing, simply pre-determine the order.  (Yeah, I don't like this idea either, but it is a way to mitigate the random factor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, it's a value calculation.  The value of a decision based on chance is equal to the value of the desired outcome times the chance of the desired outcome minus the value of what you had to give up to get it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value of the desired outcome is 1 more action in the next turn.  (This assumes if you don't bet that it will come up a particular round you'll get it the next turn - could have greater value if not getting it now means you're unable to get it exactly when you want it later)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance of a particular action appearing on the first round of a stage is very straight forward - 1/4 for the 1st stage, 1/3 for the 2nd stage, 1/2 for the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost (that is, the value of what you give up to get it) is hardest to figure.  There are two types costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The costs of being able to support an additional person (food, room if needed).  However, at least for person #3, it's a safe bet you'll do it sooner or later, so the only real cost is action order IE if you're expanding you're house you can't use those turns to plow and sow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The costs of making sure you're able to cash in (IE taking starting player).  Given that it takes a turn to take starting player, and there's only a 1/3 chance that it will come up, it's a losing proposition.  But if there's a big pile of food there, it might be worth it. (if food gained &gt; 2/3 of a turn, go for it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~~ edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To know if you should be prepared in case FG flips on turn 5, ask if the following is positive or negative:  (Note, I'm slightly misusing the term marginal here.  Sorry to any econ majors)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;VF+P(1-F)-C&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;V = Value: marginal Value of doing FG on turn 5 (That is, how much more valuable is it to have FG on turn 5 vs. turn 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;F = Flip: likelihood of FG being Flipped on turn 5.  (This is equal to 1/3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C = Cost: marginal Cost (including opportunity cost) of being prepared if it is flipped on turn 5 (That is, what is the value of the choices you can't make because of your preparations)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P = value: independent value of Preparation (that is, what is the value of these preparations if FG is NOT flipped on turn 5) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you said (in your comment) about getting a better return on a family member the sooner you get them is right on.  But, it's important to differentiate between marginal and absolute value.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolute value vs marginal value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;absolute&lt;/strong&gt; value of using FG on turn 5 is: 3VP + 9 additional turns (which is a 32% increase*).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;marginal&lt;/strong&gt; value of using FG on turn 5 is: 1 addition turn (~3% increase*).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*(these are compared to the base 28 turns.  Obviously, you'll use FG more than once, and thus have more than that, but it is still useful for comparison)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use the &lt;strong&gt;absolute&lt;/strong&gt; value in determining if you want to do FG at all, but you use the &lt;strong&gt;marginal&lt;/strong&gt; value to determine if I should do it &lt;em&gt;right now&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note about P in the equation:  this represents the value of already having the room (and food) for an additional person.  If you are prepared for FG on turn 5, and it doesn't flip, the opportunity cost of preparing for it to be flipped on turn 6 is 0!  In a sense, P is the opposite of the opportunity cost of preparing for FG on turn 6 or 7 times the relative likelihoods of it flipped on those turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not an answer per say, but more of a framework for finding the answer.  I've only played Agricola 4 times, so I don't have a feel for the relative values of V, C and P.  By making sure you're ready for FG on turn 5 or by preventing your opponent from being ready, you're saying that VF+P(1-F) is greater than C, that is you gain more by doing that than you could gain by doing something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="487" LastEditorUserId="487" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T22:13:31.233" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T22:13:31.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6455" CreationDate="2012-02-06T14:42:40.457" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like it's not the randomness of the action spaces that bothers you, but the unknown factor. If you're playing in person and others share your opinion, I'd suggest revealing the cards after they're shuffled and just use something else to track what round you're on. You'd have to keep an eye on upkeep to make sure you're not letting things accumulate too early, but that seems like it would address all the concerns you brought up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play with the rules as written, you really can't assume that something will come up in any particular spot. For the first Family Growth, what you're describing is exactly the dilemma; if you invest early actions in the hopes of growing your family in Round 5, you have no way of knowing if that will pay off or not, and that's not something that will change with experience. You just need to factor your decision to build early (or not) with the possibility that it will not work out for you. I don't think there's anything you can do about that. For the second family growth, if it's that important to your strategy to get that first, I would say plan on being the start player in both Round 12 and Round 13, probably holding back some Minor Improvements so that it's not a total &quot;waste&quot; of the first move in Round 12 if the Family Growth action isn't the one that comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I think your question is looking at Family Growth in a vacuum, which seems to run contrary to the idea of Agricola. The best path to victory (generally) is diversity, and I realize that Family Growth is instrumental to that since it gives you precious additional actions, but regardless of what you're trying to do, relying on a specific space to be there exactly when you need it is risky. Competent opponents will often block you if possible (since there are few actions that would be detrimental, only slightly less attractive in a vacuum that would be pushed over if it both benefits them and hurts you), and if you spend too much time trying to manipulate turn order, you won't do well. Agricola is also not Chess; the random bits mean that there's not really an &quot;if X, do Y&quot; truism that will be a silver bullet winning strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the question is worded makes it sound almost like you consider Agricola to be a zero-sum game, but it's not - it's more along the lines of a Nash equilibrium, even when played two player. I guess my answer to your question would be to &quot;always have a plan B&quot;, or maybe plans 1-n where n=the number of players. If you have multiple viable options at all times, you can't be blocked easily (I've never seen the entire table collectively decide to leader-bash in Agricola, and I play with a cutthroat group of people). Ways to do this will vary considerably with the cards you get, the cards your opponents get, and what their biases are (e.g., I've played games where the 3 Wood space was taken literally every Round because most of the table thought they needed to have a 5 room house and use all of their wooden bits - as you may imagine, that took a big strategy adjustment). If you're looking to master Agricola, I think the best thing to do would be to understand how ROI works with scoring in the different categories and watch what everyone else is likely to go for. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/blogpost/4135/agriconomics&quot;&gt;This extremely long analysis&lt;/a&gt; might be a good place to start in terms of Agricola's in-game economy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T14:42:40.457" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6471" CreationDate="2012-02-06T15:45:19.833" Score="11" ViewCount="1496" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just played our first Seafarer's scenario (New World random setup) that contained a lake - a water hex surrounded by 6 land hexes. Our Seafarer rules booklet (1999) did not discuss any special rules that apply to lakes. Questions I had were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can ships be relocated from lakes to oceans and from oceans to&#xA;lakes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can harbors be placed in lakes during the setup phase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We assumed yes for the game we played but I'm wondering if that's right. In real life having a boat in a lake (that doesn't connect to an ocean via a river) does not facilitate trade or free movement of ships between oceans and the lake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if there are any official errata covering this situation? If not, are there any unofficial rules about lakes that have been adopted by a large fraction of Settlers/Seafarers players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T13:46:13.737" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T13:46:13.737" Title="In Seafarers of Catan, are there any special rules for ships or harbors in lakes?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6470" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:04:13.447" Score="10" ViewCount="1970" Body="&lt;p&gt;While goldfishing with my new UG self-mill standard deck, I realized that I have a particular habit that is probably not legal. When I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226758&quot;&gt;Forbidden Alchemy&lt;/a&gt;, I have a habit of unintentionally re-ordering (similar to how I shuffle my hand while playing) the four cards I'm looking at before selecting the one to put in my hand and putting the rest in my graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realized that the order of things in your graveyard actually matters, and that what I was doing probably isn't kosher. When I'm looking at cards in a particular zone before moving them to another zone, can I change their order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-06T16:40:32.607" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T18:27:56.443" Title="Can I change the order of cards when they change zones?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6469" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:24:20.770" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fear not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;404.3. &lt;strong&gt;If an effect or rule puts two or more cards into the same graveyard at the same time, the owner of those cards may arrange them&#xA;  in any order.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;404.2. Each graveyard is kept in a single face-up pile. A player can examine the cards in any graveyard at any time but normally can't&#xA;  change their order. &lt;strong&gt;Additional rules applying to sanctioned&#xA;  tournaments may allow a player to change the order of cards in his or&#xA;  her graveyard.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, in formats where no cards care about graveyard order, players don't have to care about graveyard order either. This rule was created in order to &quot;retire&quot; graveyard-ordering in a graceful way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DCI-sanctioned tournaments follow section 3.14 of the MTR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In formats involving only cards from Urza's Saga and later, players&#xA;  may change the order of their graveyard at any time. A player may not&#xA;  change the order of an opponent's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, you may freely rearrange your own graveyard in Standard, Extended, and Modern, as well as modern-day Limited formats. (Word of caution: doing this &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; often might come off as weird and cheaty. So feel free to arrange your graveyard with all the flashback cards or reanimation targets on top, but try not to get in the habit of fidgeting with it compulsively the way you might fidget with cards in hand.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that it's perfectly legitimate to spread out your graveyard, as long as you don't create confusion between it and other zones. For example, I like to tile my cards in columns so I can see all my options at a glance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T18:27:56.443" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T18:27:56.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6468" CreationDate="2012-02-06T16:52:18.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?combination-Fishermen_Seafarers.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Combination of “The Fishermen of Catan” with “Seafarers” Scenarios&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you include the lake, it should always be completely surrounded by&#xA;  land hexes. You must  not build ships at the lake. (Of course, if you&#xA;  use the lake as a coastal hex anyway, you may  also build ships on the&#xA;  sides facing the ocean.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest this ruling would also apply to the scenario that you described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastActivityDate="2012-02-06T16:52:18.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6476" CreationDate="2012-02-06T19:40:01.270" Score="36" ViewCount="59492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play with some serious board gamers, but we have neglected Monopoly for a number of years, so our knowledge is mostly based on high school &amp;amp; house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played last week and enjoyed it, but there was a piece of contention. There are times where we decide that we don't like one of our friends for some reason and don't want them to win (i.e. we landed on their property a bunch, or they refused to make a deal, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when player 1 has some property and player 2 lands on it and cannot pay the rent their assets (houses/hotels get liquidated), their property gets transferred to the other player.&#xA;(Please correct me if I'm wrong.) In this case, though, player 3 &quot;traded&quot; the amount of money owing for a piece of property (way overpaid). In this case they did it so that player 1 would not get the properties. Player 2 had no chance of winning the game (all properties mortgaged, no cash to speak of and many of the other properties with 3+ houses/hotels on them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To summarize:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is it OK for a third player to purchase/trade property or cash to/from a player who is about to lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2445" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-20T14:28:47.087" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T19:29:26.073" Title="In Monopoly, Is it OK for a third party to make a trade with a player who is about to lose?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2012-02-06T20:19:02.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a violation of the games rules, but it seems to clearly violate the spirit of the game.  If you're at the point where you're willing to resort to such things to penalize player 1 to that extent, why even bother finishing the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T17:13:58.650" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T17:13:58.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2012-02-06T22:42:09.567" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usual ruling is that if you are threatened with bankruptcy (you've landed on a property and don't have enough cash), you can only make trades with other players if they will allow you to avoid bankruptcy.  If you can't avoid it, the bankrupting player gets everything you owned (cash and property) at the instant you landed on them, after selling houses/hotels to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strict reading of the rules would indicate that if you land on a property and don't have enough cash to pay the rent, you're bankrupt immediately and have no opportunity to sell/trade (or even mortgage) stuff to raise money.  Most people consider that silly, and allow trades to raise enough cash to avoid the bankruptcy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common house rule related to bankruptcy -- a player may accept LESS than the amount they are owed if they wish.  A common use: You land on my hotel on New York and owe me $1000.  I offer to let you off for a $1 if you sell me Boardwalk for $1.  Otherwise you might sell it to the player that owns Park Place for $1000 to pay your rent.  I can't just buy it from you for $1000 as I don't have that much cash on hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastEditorUserId="1019" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T00:59:44.500" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T00:59:44.500" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2012-02-06T23:00:55.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another good way to learn shape is to play shape game against a stronger player. Stronger player plays white you play black. To start with black places stones along the 1st lines, one space apart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wc Shape game&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . X . X . X . X . X . X . X . X . X . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . 1 . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X |&#xA;$$ | . X . X . X . X . X . X . X . X . X . |&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White starts the play, with the aim of making ONE living group in the center; black's aim is to not allow this to happen.  Playing this game is fun and teaches beginners about good and bad shapes naturally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2447" LastEditorUserId="2447" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T01:57:20.590" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T01:57:20.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2012-02-07T02:53:06.677" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official rules don't state if you are able to sell properties at any time (in fact, it is one of the few rules that don't have the timing explictly stated), but I wouldn't put too much faith that this wasn't an oversight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unimproved properties, railroads and utilities (but not buildings) may be sold to any player as a private transaction for any amount the owner can get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other types of transactions state that you can do them &lt;strong&gt;at any time&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling &quot;Get Out of Jail Free&quot; cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortgaging properties to the bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling houses back to the bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buying houses from the bank. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most troubling transaction that can be done &quot;at any time&quot;, in the above list is &quot;Buying Houses.&quot; They probably didn't mean that you can buy houses at any time, &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; another player rolls the dice, but &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; they were forced to pay rent on the property they landed on. If they did, this game would be changed for the worst, with people usually not having to invest on houses, until immediately after someone will land on them. This makes me believe that this is probably an oversight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do make it fairly clear that you can mortgage properties and sell houses/hotels if you are unable to pay a tax to the &lt;strong&gt;Bank&lt;/strong&gt; (this would be after rolling dice, but before resolving the Tax/Penalty). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should you owe the Bank, instead of another player, more than you can pay (because of taxes or penalties) even by selling off buildings and mortgaging property, you must turn over all assets to the Bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rules aren't very clear about the timing of &quot;Selling Properties&quot;, and because they probably don't mean &lt;strong&gt;at any time&lt;/strong&gt; is before resolving a players movement after they roll the dice, you will have to make some house rules. You will need to decide what Hasbro meant when they said &quot;any time&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortgaging Unimproved Properties: This may be done at any time, including before having to pay rent/tax to the Bank ([only | &lt;strong&gt;or another player&lt;/strong&gt;]).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling Houses: This may be done at any time, including before having to pay rent/tax to the Bank ([only | &lt;strong&gt;or another player&lt;/strong&gt;])&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling Property: This may only be done at any time &lt;strong&gt;other than&lt;/strong&gt; after a player rolls the dice, but before they have paid ([Rent [and/or] Tax]) to ([another player [and/or] the Bank.])&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Selling a &quot;Get Out of Jail Free&quot; card: This may only be done at any time &lt;strong&gt;other than&lt;/strong&gt; after a player rolls the dice, but before they have paid ([Rent [and/or] Tax]) to ([another player [and/or] the Bank.])&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buying Houses/Hotels: This may only be done at any time &lt;strong&gt;other than&lt;/strong&gt; after a player rolls the dice, but before they have paid ([Rent [and/or] Tax]) to ([another player [and/or] the Bank.])&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally restrict Selling Unimproved Property cards, Get Out of Jail cards, and Buying Houses to any time other than after dice rolls, and before resolving the rolls (as that is clearly the way that most people have played the game. Mortgaging Property, and selling Houses/Hotels can really occur at any time, even after die rolls but before resolving the die rolls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The iOS implementation of Monopoly, and the PSOne implementaion of this game do not allow buying houses/hotels, selling/proposing trades (including Get Out of Jail cards) after rolling dice but before resolving rent owed. It does allow selling houses/hotels and mortgaging properties to avoid going bankrupt after rolling dice but before paying rent, even when landing on another players property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T13:14:51.600" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T13:14:51.600" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6458" CreationDate="2012-02-07T03:57:50.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the rules are fairly explict about getting out of the Brig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may move out of “Sickbay” without difficulty, but not the “Brig.” They may only move out of the “Brig” by passing the skill check listed on the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piloting Vipers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who wants his character to pilot a viper simply moves his character to the “Hangar Deck” location and uses the action listed there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-3-new.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BSG Errata&lt;/a&gt;, although it doesn't mention your particular example, it is a similar move a character from the Brig to some other location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If a character is in the “Brig,” and a card sends him to “Sickbay,” is he moved from the “Brig?”&#xA;  A: No. This reflects a change from previous rulings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T04:19:37.347" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T04:19:37.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6269" CreationDate="2012-02-07T03:59:42.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been allowed to cook 4 sheep in a 2er before and still lost the game.  Badly.  I do think in general, your opponents are over-valuing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/701218/2-player-back-to-the-basics-or&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;scattering the woolies&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (as one BGGer puts it) if they're just making a knee-jerk response to your First Fireplace.  Assuming you keep one, it's theoretically a 2-point move, but only if you don't cook it later and &lt;em&gt;never take Sheep the rest of the game&lt;/em&gt;.  Otherwise you're spending an action (that you would've done anyway later) just to block.  Blocking is necessary in 2ers, but you need to do it in a way that's a net positive in score for you (e.g., if your opponent gets begging card(s) because of it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if you're &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; worried about your opponent getting 8 food, you're probably already behind.  There are enough ways to get food in a 2er that &quot;stealing&quot; some sheep isn't likely to make up the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T03:59:42.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-07T06:14:18.640" Score="12" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Eclipse rulebook, page 21:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Influencing hexes&lt;/strong&gt;:  If a hex has no population after all&#xA;  battles have been resolved and you have at least one Ship&#xA;  there, remove the previous controller’s Influence Disc (returning&#xA;  it to his Influence Track). After this, you may place&#xA;  your own Influence Disc there. &lt;em&gt;Also, if your Ship is in a hex&#xA;  without an Influence Disc after the Combat Phase, you may&#xA;  place a disc there.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A literal interpretation of the last sentence means that just having a ship in a hex allows one to stake a claim with an Influence Disc.  Obviously, this would apply for the following two combat-related situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defeating ancients or the GCDS, leaving behind an unclaimed hex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two opposing armies fighting over an uncontrolled hex, leaving behind an unclaimed hex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this also opens up a third intriguing possibility:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving a ship into an unclaimed and uncontested hex, later claiming it without needing an Influence action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this third interpretation legal, or are hexes claimed in this step limited only to ships which actually did something during the Combat Phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T03:31:56.113" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T03:31:56.113" Title="After the combat phase, can hexes be claimed even if the ships weren't involved in combat?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6479" CreationDate="2012-02-07T08:07:02.487" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is an incorrect interpretation of the rules, these rules only apply to hexes where combat has taken place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you move your ship into a controlled hex and you didn't fight any other ships there you still are in combat. If that hex was populated you get a shot at destroying the population. If there's no population left the influence disc is removed and you are able to claim it by placing an influence disc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1757" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T08:07:02.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6462" CreationDate="2012-02-07T11:38:17.327" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not! Quite apart from the fact that that makes no sense whatsoever, it also explicitly states that you can't on page 23 of the rulebook (bottom right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While land areas connected by ship transport are considered adjacent&#xA;  for purposes of marching and retreating, they are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; considered&#xA;  adjacent for any other purpose (including supporting and raiding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T11:38:17.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2012-02-07T11:48:38.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, routed troops can be supported. A battle against routed troops (who have zero combat strength) still follows all the regular rules of combat (including Calling for Support).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T11:48:38.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6484" CreationDate="2012-02-07T17:33:25.340" Score="12" ViewCount="1112" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text of &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominioncg.wikia.com/wiki/Bureaucrat&quot;&gt;Bureaucrat&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gain a Silver card, put it on top of your deck. Each other player reveals a Victory card and puts it on top of his deck. (or reveals a hand with no Victory cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I play the card and a player does not have any victory cards in their hand, it instructs you to reveal a hand with none. Should they only reveal their hand to me or are they required to reveal their hand to the entire group of players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2452" OwnerDisplayName="Kayla" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2012-02-07T17:45:45.103" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T17:48:59.180" Title="In Dominion, when it says reveal a card, who must I reveal it to?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6483" CreationDate="2012-02-07T17:48:59.180" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reveal&lt;/strong&gt; means to show their hand to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reveal&lt;/strong&gt; – when a player reveals a card, he shows a card to all players and&#xA;  then returns it to wherever it came from (unless instructed specifically to&#xA;  put it elsewhere). If the player is required to reveal cards from the top of&#xA;  his Deck, and he does not have enough cards, he shuffles in order to&#xA;  reveal the required number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T17:48:59.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6330" CreationDate="2012-02-07T18:56:29.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the larger clubs have an evening or two a week set aside for beginners or &quot;improvers&quot;, which sounds like the sort of thing you are looking for. My own has a very popular evening where an experienced player gives a short talk on a topic and everyone then proceeds to forget it all in the excitement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find your local club and ask. They won't bite. (No point giving you my club's contact details as its a long way from California.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T18:56:29.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6333" CreationDate="2012-02-07T22:43:16.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, I'd suggest to have a look at the Oracle: several &quot;loopholes&quot; are addressed and often cards text is officially amended in order to remove them.&#xA;As a result, lots of supposed &quot;loopholes&quot; are short-lived.&#xA;It's impossible to give you a clear cut advice if you don't write the sequence of cards that created the &quot;loophole&quot; in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T22:43:16.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-02-07T22:53:52.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with most of previous comments, but I'd like to add another aspect of the issue. There is an aspect of this game that was inherent in the beginning and now it's quite overlooked: the ANTE.&#xA;If you play with ante, then you may risk losing a rare, while your opponent may risk just a common card... and this can add interest and different approaches to a game (and to deck building!). Nowadays playing with ante is very uncommon...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T22:53:52.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2012-02-07T23:11:59.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decks usually have a number of control/defensive cards, evenly balanced between anti-creatures, anti-instants, anti-enchantments etc.&#xA;I found more useful to put my attacking cards only in one category (creatures, enchantments, sorceries, etc.), so that a big part of my opponent's deck defenses becomes useless or less useful.&#xA;You can see that, if you follow this phylosophy, there is no &quot;proportionate&quot; or &quot;disproportionate&quot; number of creatures, but it would be rather more interesting having significantly more or significantly less creatures than &quot;normal&quot;. Or even no creatures at all. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T23:11:59.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6108" CreationDate="2012-02-07T23:36:15.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often had good luck with cheap creature removers or delayers that are often underestimated, like unsummon, twiddle, swords to plowshares or similar.&#xA;Another card that usually makes people laugh but that can serve you well in this situation is force spike and sometimes mana short cast on the opponent at the beginning of their turn.&#xA;At times I used with some success island sanctuaries and even stasis and maybe kismets, but you need to build quite a complicate deck around them, and requires some luck to have a good combination of cards in your first draw...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What really made my aggro-control decks struggle where the quick discard+control decks. If you are forced to discard your creatures before you can put them in play on the first few turns, then you're probably doomed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-07T23:36:15.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2012-02-08T00:23:56.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the continents and compare the number of borders vs reward, Australia is the easiest, but the next step from there is Asia, which is one of the hardest continents to hold. The next best is North America. With a reward of 5, but only 3 borders to defend, this is - in my opinion - always the best option. It's easy to expand into South America, and with Asia and Europe usually fragmented, it's relatively easy to attack one country to gain a card while you consolidate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last piece of advice, leave 2 armies on Central America, even after taking South America. If someone happens to break into one border, this is usually enough to prevent them from breaking your continent bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2460" LastEditorUserId="2460" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T01:10:43.730" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T01:10:43.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6492" CreationDate="2012-02-08T02:24:13.653" Score="5" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wanting to confirm whether I'm understanding these rules correctly. The rule set from which I'm deriving most of my (Rīchi-)Mahjong knowledge only has this short paragraph about tiles being worth &lt;em&gt;han&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;三元牌、圏風牌、門風牌を飜牌とし、その刻子、槓子組ごとに一飜とする。&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  連風牌はニ飜とする。&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which I translate to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Elements tiles, prevailing wind tiles and player wind tiles are han tiles, with each triple or quad meld of them being worth one han.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Double wind tile melds are worth two han.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game with a one-han minimum requirement, does this mean if I have &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; element meld or a meld of any of the two relevant wind types, I can complete my hand? Meaning, it may be worth it to make a call for these tiles and opening my hand, even if the rest of my hand is not really worth much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="263" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T12:11:50.740" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T12:11:50.740" Title="Element, wind melds worth it to reach minimum han requirement?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|yaku|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6491" CreationDate="2012-02-08T02:50:28.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yakuhai (役牌)&lt;/strong&gt;, also known as &lt;strong&gt;Fanpai (飜牌)&lt;/strong&gt;, is a 1-han yaku consisting of a pon/kan of any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dragons (elements)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your current seat wind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The current round wind (typically east or south)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is a yaku, it will net you the 1-yaku minimum required to complete your hand.  It doesn't matter if the hand remains open or closed, so calling a discarded tile to complete the set is perfectly legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether it is the best choice in any circumstance is highly dependent on the rest of your hand; the point value of an open set is only half that of a closed set, and there are many other potential yaku which are unavailable when a hand is opened.  In particular, you lose out on the ability to call riichi, which would also provide the 1-yaku minimum and give you a chance for ura-dora as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T05:08:43.910" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T05:08:43.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3580" CreationDate="2012-02-08T11:04:05.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason why this would &lt;em&gt;fail&lt;/em&gt; to work, but it would change the strategy.  I'll give it a go next time I play, if I can persuade the other players to try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T11:04:05.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5038" CreationDate="2012-02-08T11:10:28.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought white was alpha and black was beta...When they first came out in Lexington Kentucky they were white bordered. a year or so later they came out with black border, same cards as the white border but calling them beta.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2465" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T11:10:28.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2012-02-08T11:13:55.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With everyone I've played with, future trades are looked down on as being slightly against the spirit of the rules, and certainly not expected to be actually paid back, although sometimes they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We certainly would dislike meta-gaming, and carrying trust of players across different games of Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T11:13:55.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5038" CreationDate="2012-02-08T11:15:44.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 T'Pan . 1 of them only has Science for skills while 2 of them have Science and Mindmeld. I guess the just Science one is a miss print!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2465" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T13:22:21.100" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T13:22:21.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6108" CreationDate="2012-02-08T11:23:05.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends greatly on what deck you are playing and in what format. One of the best ways to stop (or more like delay) a Tarmogoyf is play one of your own. It's cheap, stops his goyf, is probably bigger than his other guys and beats very well if you want him to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to get around his disruption with mass removal is cards like Pernicious Deed or Engineered Explosives which you can play any turn you think it's safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since most of the aggro-control decks rely on tempo and you'll probably win in the long run, siding in cards like Daze or other cheap counterspells/removal might help you get through the tough early game and still have enough power for the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you want to disrupt his hand before he gets the chance to cast what he wants (Thoughtseize and the likes)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on your deck and what you're up against. If you want to give a more specified question we'll be able to give a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T11:23:05.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6461" CreationDate="2012-02-08T12:34:25.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tom Sloper, an apparently very experienced American player, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sloperama.com/mjfaq/mjfaq09.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;writes about etiquette&lt;/a&gt;. It turns out that &quot;One person's bad etiquette is another person's official rule&quot; - so you have to adapt. There is a huge difference between tournament play and casual games with friends. Also, you need to consider house rules. In the end, there is a definite answer to your question in the rule book, but its usage in practice depends on the circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DISCARDING AHEAD -- When I play with my Japanese friends, they yell at&#xA;  me if I claim a discard and then make the exposure before discarding&#xA;  (nobody can play until I discard, and they want to PLAY!). But when I&#xA;  play with my American friends, they call me dead if I discard before&#xA;  making the exposure. One person's bad etiquette is another person's&#xA;  official rule! Why it's a bad habit -- Do it with players who strictly&#xA;  follow the rules (like in a tournament) and you'll be called dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;PICKING AHEAD -- Many American players think &quot;picking ahead&quot; (AKA&#xA;  &quot;playing with a future&quot;) is the correct way to play. But when these&#xA;  players come to a tournament... watch out! Old habits die hard. And&#xA;  picking ahead is the surest way I know to get called dead in a&#xA;  tournament. In case anybody's been living in a cave, &lt;strong&gt;picking ahead is&#xA;  a no-no&lt;/strong&gt;. That other mah-jongg association (I'm not naming names, but&#xA;  their initials are NMJL) HATES picking ahead! Read their rulebook and&#xA;  yearly bulletin sometime if you don't believe me. Why it's a bad habit&#xA;  -- (1) It causes too many conflicts when someone wants to claim a discard. You might think that it makes the game go faster, but it&#xA;  really doesn't. (2) Do it in a tournament and you'll be called dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He adds a few more points to consider (including &quot;avoid making everyone wait&quot;), it's a very interesting read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T12:34:25.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6500" CreationDate="2012-02-08T12:35:31.200" Score="4" ViewCount="12358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a deck with the new expansion (Dark Ascension) using the cards I got from a couple of boosters last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial deck form is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/deck.asp?deck_id=974268&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[Zombies Nightmare]&lt;/a&gt; (created by me) but I feel like it needs to be improved, to increase the probability of being able to play something on the first 2 turns.&#xA;I am very inexperienced (I only started a month ago) so any tips on how to make this deck more functional would be very appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2466" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T17:42:39.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T16:40:09.450" Title="How can I improve a Zombie deck to work faster?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6499" CreationDate="2012-02-08T14:14:29.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're a newbie that wants to improve on a deck so I won't go into deck building theory or anything like that, I'll just try to be useful and point out a possible approach (which is not the only one, by all means).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a nice zombie theme going on. I think you can go for a nice aggro deck with cards from the last couple expansions (Innistrad and Dark Ascension).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the focus. How do you kill? I'd say zombies are good at swarming. Let's go for overwhelming the opponent with a lot of creatures: Diregraf Ghoul, Gravecrawler are your all stars, so ideally you'd play 4 of each! Highborn Ghoul can be interesting for its evasion, Black Cat is also cheap and provides value when it dies and Geralf's Messenger is nuts although it costs too much black mana (so you just want 2 or 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's not forget some blue zombies as well! Diregraf Captain is pretty neat because it pumps all the other guys (4 of him as well), Stitched Drake is really powerful and cheap but once again, costs two blue (maybe play only 3)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About your spells, I think they're all over the place! I'd just focus on getting rid of opposing creatures so that your zombies can hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying Evil is a neat trick to save one of your guys (plus it plays really well with Black Cat or the Captain). Other than that, you want Tragic Slip, Dead Weight or Victim of Night. If you can get your hands on other expansions I'd say Go For The Throat, Doom Blade and Dismember are all very powerful standard legal removal spells!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, since you're playing blue, maybe some Ponder and Forbidden Alchemy would be good to trim your deck and get the good cards out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T17:18:31.827" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T17:18:31.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6502" CreationDate="2012-02-08T14:53:06.027" Score="10" ViewCount="24016" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Metamorph&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Metamorph&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have Phyrexian Metamorph enter the battlefield as a copy of any artifact or creature on the battlefield, except it's an artifact in addition to its other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Double&quot;&gt;Spark Double&lt;/a&gt; have similar abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand the rules text correctly, abilities of copied creatures that will trigger when the creature enters the battle field will trigger for the copy as well. In my current case the target is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geist%20Honored%20Monk&quot;&gt;Geist Honored Monk&lt;/a&gt;, which has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Geist-Honored Monk enters the battlefield, put two 1/1 white Spirit creature tokens with flying onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I copy this creature with Phyrexian Metamorph, do I get the tokens as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-03-06T19:27:42.790" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T19:27:42.790" Title="When my creature enters the battlefield as a copy of another creature, will its &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; abilities trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-enters-the-battlefield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6501" CreationDate="2012-02-08T14:58:55.050" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly do.  Per the Gatherer rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any enters-the-battlefield abilities of the copied permanent will&#xA;  trigger when Phyrexian Metamorph enters the battlefield. Any &quot;as&#xA;  [this] enters the battlefield&quot; or &quot;[this] enters the battlefield with&quot;&#xA;  abilities of the chosen permanent will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section in the Comp rules seems pretty clear on this, as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.5. An object that enters the battlefield “as a copy” or “that’s a copy” of another object becomes a  copy as it enters the battlefield.&#xA;  It doesn’t enter the battlefield, and then become a copy of that &#xA;  permanent. If the text that’s being copied includes any abilities that&#xA;  replace the enters-the-battlefield  event (such as “enters the&#xA;  battlefield with” or “as [this] enters the battlefield” abilities),&#xA;  those  abilities will take effect. Also, any enters-the-battlefield&#xA;  triggered abilities of the copy will have a  chance to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T14:58:55.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6504" CreationDate="2012-02-08T15:00:38.200" Score="8" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230072&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marrow Shards&lt;/a&gt; in the second main phase after combat is completed? Marrow Shards says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Marrow Shards deals 1 damage to each attacking creature.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent played this card only to do the same damage with his &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rage Extractor&lt;/a&gt;. I think he is allowed to do this, because there are no prerequisites like a valid target or something like that. If this is really possible, what happens to creatures that attacked in the combat phase? Do they still count as attacking creatures and so take damage from the spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-08T19:29:52.007" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T19:29:52.007" Title="Can I play Marrow Shards in my second main phase in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6503" CreationDate="2012-02-08T15:18:53.113" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct: the spell doesn't target and has no restriction about when you can cast it, so you can cast it outside of combat to do &quot;nothing&quot; (i.e. just to trigger the Rage Extractor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting it on your second main phase won't damage any creatures, since creatures are only &quot;attacking&quot; for the duration of the combat phase. Once the opponent has made a valid selection during the &quot;declare attackers&quot; step,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1j Each chosen creature still controlled by the active player becomes an attacking creature. &lt;strong&gt;It    remains an attacking creature&#xA;  until it’s removed from combat or the combat phase ends,    whichever&#xA;  comes first.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 506.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are still opportunity to cast Marrow Shards after damage is dealt but before combat ends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the combat damage step, after damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the end of combat step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-02-08T15:18:53.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6506" CreationDate="2012-02-09T00:16:08.093" Score="7" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lignify&quot;&gt;Lignify&lt;/a&gt; on my opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; and then deal 5 damage to it with one of my creatures, does it go to the graveyard since it has no abilities? Or is this ability regained once it is removed from the field since Lignify is destroyed at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:47:30.260" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:47:30.260" Title="If Blightsteel Colossus loses its abilities through an effect like Lignify, can it be put into my graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6505" CreationDate="2012-02-09T04:04:42.007" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Colossus would be put into the graveyard because it doesn't have its &amp;quot;shuffle into its owner's library&amp;quot; ability when replacement effects would be checked.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment that your Lignified Colossus dies, it's still a 0/4 with no abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comp rules for replacement effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.4. Replacement effects must exist before the appropriate event occurs—they can’t “go back in    time” and change something that’s&#xA;already happened. Spells or abilities that generate these effects&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;are often cast or activated in response to whatever would produce the&#xA;event and thus resolve before    that event would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: A player can activate an ability to regenerate a creature in response to a spell&#xA;that would destroy it. Once the spell resolves, though, it’s too late to regenerate the&#xA;creature.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It regains its shuffle ability once it hits your graveyard (since Lignify is gone). But the time for checking replacement effects has already passed. It stays in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:15:05.187" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6513" CreationDate="2012-02-09T14:57:37.417" Score="7" ViewCount="1742" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226905&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All creatures &lt;strong&gt;able&lt;/strong&gt; to block enchanted creature do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that players cannot be forced to pay extra costs (via &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=19619&quot;&gt;War Cadence&lt;/a&gt; for example) in order to make a creature a legal blocker, but what about other conditions.  If &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220277&quot;&gt;Stormblood Berserker&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with Lure is attacking me and I control two 1/1 creatures, how does the game view their legality as blockers?  Looking at each creature individually, neither are able to block.  Everything I've found says they both have to block, but I can't find a comp rule or official ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T19:33:10.610" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T19:33:10.610" Title="How is legality of blockers determined?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6512" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:03:39.420" Score="6" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an example, the Comp Rules were updated February 1, 2012.  I know that a reference to &quot;Fateful Hour&quot; was added to 207.2c since I know to search for fateful hour, but how do I know what else changed?  Does Wizards of the Coast release an official list of changes when they make a revision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T15:30:29.783" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:02:39.540" Title="How can I tell what has changed in a Comprehensive Rules update?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6526" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:05:47.840" Score="20" ViewCount="2423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some game ideas that are currently in the prototype phase. I am now looking for groups who are willing to test these games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat afraid that they won't like the game and would not be willing to play again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know where I can find players that test new games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2473" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T16:13:51.097" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T05:09:34.190" Title="How do I find players willing to participate in test-playing my games?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6507" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:36:16.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both creatures must block the Berserker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The general rule with requirements is that you have to satisfy as many requirements as possible without violating any restrictions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the appropriate blocking comp rules, with a very relevant example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1b The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a&#xA;creature can't block, or that it can't block unless some condition is&#xA;met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of&#xA;blockers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1c The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it’s affected by    any requirements (effects that say a&#xA;creature must block, or that it must block if some condition    is&#xA;met). If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer&#xA;than the maximum    possible number of requirements that could be&#xA;obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the    declaration of&#xA;blockers is illegal. If a creature can’t block unless a player pays a&#xA;cost, that player    is not required to pay that cost, even if&#xA;blocking with that creature would increase the number of&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: A player controls one creature that “blocks if able” and another creature&#xA;with no abilities. An effect states “Creatures can’t be blocked except by two or more&#xA;creatures.” Having only the first creature block violates the restriction. Having neither&#xA;creature block fulfills the restriction but not the requirement. &lt;strong&gt;Having both creatures&#xA;block the same attacking creature fulfills both the restriction and the requirement, so&#xA;that’s the only option.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:32:55.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6508" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:37:09.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They put an article in their website written by the current Rules Manager (the main authority in Wizards for Magic rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the one that corresponds to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/179a&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;February 1, 2012 rules update&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you search for more articles by the same author, you'll find the articles for older rules updates. Searching for articles of previous Rules Managers is trickier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T16:02:39.540" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:02:39.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6507" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:38:10.930" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the instance provided (Lure + &quot;cannot be blocked except by two or more creatures&quot;), you are required to block the Stormblood Berserker with your 1/1s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vanilla 1/1s are only conditionally able to block, but you must fulfill the maximum number of requirements&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; that does not violate any restrictions&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; when blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supporting rules (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the defending player declares blockers. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. &lt;strong&gt;To declare blockers, the defending player follows the steps below, in order.&lt;/strong&gt; If at any point during the declaration of blockers, the defending player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &quot;Handling Illegal Actions&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume I'm the blocking player, and go through these steps one by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1a&lt;/strong&gt; The defending player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will block. The chosen creatures must be untapped. For each of the chosen creatures, the defending player chooses one creature for it to block that's attacking him, her, or a planeswalker he or she controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first, I declare blockers. I declare no blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1b&lt;/strong&gt; The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can't block, or that it can't block unless some condition is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of blockers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My vanilla 1/1s are under the restrictions provided by Stormblood Berserker, but declaring no blockers does not violate the restriction - the declaration of zero blockers &lt;strong&gt;is not illegal (yet)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1c&lt;/strong&gt; The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must block, or that it must block if some condition is met). If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of blockers is illegal. If a creature can't block unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost, even if blocking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the key piece - are my 1/1s under the requirement to block or not? Individually, they are both required to block &lt;strong&gt;if able.&lt;/strong&gt; However, they are not individually able - this seems to imply that they do not have to block, and zero blockers would be acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with zero blockers, &quot;the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions&quot; - thus, &quot;the declaration of blockers &lt;strong&gt;is illegal&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot legally declare zero blockers, because I haven't met the maximum number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions. The that maximum number can be achieved by declaring two (or more) blockers for Stormblood Berserker, and until I declare each other-wise legal creature as a blocker, my declaration of blockers will be illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Alex P points out that 509.1c includes a great example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A player controls one creature that “blocks if able” and another creature with no abilities. An effect states “Creatures can’t be blocked except by two or more creatures.” Having only the first creature block violates the restriction. Having neither creature block fulfills the restriction but not the requirement. Having both creatures block the same attacking creature fulfills both the restriction and the requirement, so that’s the only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the requirement is different, it's a similar circumstance - achieving the maximum number of requirements forces the creatures to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;From the comp rules:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[1]: Requirement: An effect that forces one or more creatures to attack or block. See rules 508.1d and 509.1c.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;[2]: Restriction: An effect that precludes one or more creatures from attacking or blocking. See rules 508.1c and 509.1b.&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T18:33:35.543" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T18:33:35.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6508" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:38:43.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe they release a full changelog every time they make a change to the rules, because most of the time, they're minor patches, like adding/removing creature types, or adding a few new block mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when big changes happen, such as Sixth Edition or M10, they usually discuss those changes in detail, in form of an article, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/46a&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do believe though that a full diff of rules changes would be pretty awesome for the rules lawyers among us. A website doing this could be fully automated, just checking the rules in txt format once a day or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT: Googling a bit revealed &lt;a href=&quot;http://yawgatog.com/resources/rules-changes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this gem&lt;/a&gt;, which seems to be exactly what I had in mind: A privately maintained, exact changelog between rules versions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T15:44:58.850" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T15:44:58.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6508" CreationDate="2012-02-09T15:46:19.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards releases what they call Update Bulletins. Within this update bulletin, is a section called &lt;strong&gt;Comprehensive Rulebook Changes&lt;/strong&gt;. You can search for the latter, and eliminate most other update bulletins not referring to the rules changes.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/cse?cx=010753050335830773696%3ases62ofhwsq&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;amp;name=sa&amp;amp;q=Comprehensive%20rulebook%20changes#gsc.tab=0&amp;amp;gsc.q=Comprehensive%20rulebook%20changes&amp;amp;gsc.page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Search for comprehensive rulebook changes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if Wizards didn't release this list of changes, you could use something like the Internet wayback machine, and a text difference tool (meld, fd, etc.) to find the changes yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-09T16:02:32.487" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T16:02:32.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6518" CreationDate="2012-02-09T17:05:18.580" Score="5" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Cylon loyalty card ability says &quot;If not in the brig...&quot;, can the player then activate it when he reveals himself as a Cylon while in detention in New Caprica?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T02:52:48.830" Title="Cylon loyalty card abilities and the New Caprica detention location" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6509" CreationDate="2012-02-09T17:19:36.840" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by finding an &quot;adventurous&quot; gaming group interested in playing many different games. The thing about most gamers: we love discussing games as well as playing. As long as your group isn't obsessed with a particular game, different people with different interests and backgrounds will provide a game designer with a lot of material to think about after a play test. It doesn't even matter what kind of player they are: the hardcore gamers can help find ways to make your system robust by trying to break it. They more casual players can work as a fun compass telling you if the game is boring or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your question I get that your biggest worry is people not wanting to play again after they try a flawed game. If you make it clear this is a play test, that the game can be improved and that you value their opinion they might even get invested in improving and suggesting new ideas for your game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T17:19:36.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6516" CreationDate="2012-02-09T17:20:45.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Abilities that are affected by the brig are affected by the detention area. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; covers this under Pegasus Expansion (page 2), &lt;strong&gt;Brig, Sickbay, Detention Area, Medical Center&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like that answer, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/BSG-Pegasus-rulebook-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pegasus Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (page 14) states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As is the case with the Brig, players cannot use the reveal actions on loyalty cards while in Detention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T02:52:48.830" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T02:52:48.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2012-02-09T19:42:10.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player doesn't have enough cash on hand to meet a  rent, or other obligation, the person can try to liquidate his holdings to raise sufficient cash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Sell houses and hotels back to the bank for half price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Mortgage properties to the bank for half price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Liquidate other assets such as &quot;get out of jail free&quot; cards (if house rules allow it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after taking these steps, a player still can't meet his obligation, then he has to turn over his (mortgaged) property to the landowner or bank and leave the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is therefore implied, although not stated, that you can sell unmortgaged property at, say, full value, either to the landlord, or to a third party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some landlords will agree to accept property at full (list) value, or at another agreed value toward the payment of rent, so that they get unmortgaged property. It's perfectly ok for a landlord to say, &quot;You owe me $1,000, but if you give me $400 plus Boardwalk (List price, $400), we'll call it quits.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there might be a competition between the landlord and third parties to buy property from the renter at prices to be determined. In essence, a bankrupt player can put his property at auction to try to pay his bills, as one might do in real life. And the &quot;strategic&quot; value of the property might cause it to command more than list price. Even the idea of keeping a weakened player in the game might be a good strategy for some people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only caveat is that if the &quot;auction&quot; process doesn't raise enough money to pay the debt, the trades will have to be &quot;undone,&quot; and the debtor has to turn over his &quot;mortgaged&quot; property to the landowner. (In a real bankruptcy proceeding, a trustee controls sales.) The &quot;scorched earth&quot; impact of the debtor's mortgaging all property gives the landlord (or third parties) an incentive to work out &quot;deals.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Selling&quot; in this context is different from buying. You couldn't buy (build) a house on a property that someone has just landed on to jack up the rent in &quot;real life;&quot; the house has to have been built beforehand. Therefore you can't do so in Monopoly. But in &quot;real life,&quot; a person that owes you rent could sell his own (existing) house(s) to meet this obligation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And about the part of the third player overpaying on a property to keep the debtor in the game. That's likely to benefit the landlord. Let's say that the rent was $1,000 and the debtor could pay only $500 after mortgaging all his property. If the third party buys, say (mortgaged) Oriental Ave. (list value $100, mortgaged value $50) for $500, the landlord actually gets the full $1000 instead of just $500, with the difference coming out of the pocket of the third party. Of course, the third party may have a &quot;strategic&quot; reason to pay $500 for Oriental, either to complete or prevent a Monopoly, but that's just part of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T16:20:10.753" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T16:20:10.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6509" CreationDate="2012-02-09T20:43:12.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best solution I've seen is to post a request for playtesters on the major boardgaming sites, ost notably, Boardgamegeek.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-09T20:43:12.730" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6522" CreationDate="2012-02-09T21:22:43.957" Score="13" ViewCount="2338" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thraben%20Heretic&quot;&gt;Thraben Heretic&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Exile target creature card from a graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying (When this creature dies, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when a creature with Undying dies, can I use Thraben Heretic to exile that creature from the graveyard before Undying resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:44:49.850" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:44:49.850" Title="Can Thraben Heretic be used on creatures with undying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6521" CreationDate="2012-02-09T21:29:11.637" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying is a triggered ability, not a replacement effect. That means Undying creatures still &quot;die&quot; -- meaning that the card is placed into the graveyard from the battlefield. &lt;em&gt;Then&lt;/em&gt; its Undying ability goes on the stack. You can activate Thraben Heretic in response to exile the creature card from the graveyard. The Undying ability do nothing when in resolves because the card it's supposed to fetch back to the battlefield is no longer in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T13:43:09.103" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T13:43:09.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6524" CreationDate="2012-02-09T22:06:35.747" Score="5" ViewCount="1902" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Manic%20Vandal&quot;&gt;Manic Vandal&lt;/a&gt; if there are no artifacts in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manic Vandal says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Manic Vandal enters the battlefield, destroy target artifact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:44:18.363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:44:18.363" Title="Is the target for an ability part of the cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6523" CreationDate="2012-02-09T22:16:16.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't cast a spell unless it has legal targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a spell resolves, it will be countered if &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of its legal targets are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;strong&gt;your Manic Vandal spell (the thing that you cast to create Manic Vandal the creature) doesn't actually target&lt;/strong&gt;. Instead, it just summons a creature. Then, after he enters the battlefield, Manic Vandal's ability -- &quot;When Manic Vandal enters the battlefield, destroy target artifact&quot; -- triggers, and you put the effect &quot;Destroy target artifact&quot; on the stack. If there are no valid targets, nothing is destroyed. But you still get to keep the Manic Vandal creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T14:25:51.420" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T14:25:51.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6304" CreationDate="2012-02-10T01:35:10.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/711246/eclipse-official-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eclipse Official Faq&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Page 21, Influencing hexes&lt;/strong&gt;: The Influence Discs are placed at the &lt;em&gt;end of the Combat Phase&lt;/em&gt;. A better wording for this chapter would be: &quot;At the end of the Combat Phase, if you have at least one Ship in a hex that has no population, remove the previous controller’s Influence Disc (returning it to his Influence Track). After this, you may place your own Influence Disc there. Also, if at the end of the Combat Phase your Ship is in a hex without an Influence Disc, you may place a disc there.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which clearly sets the timing for the remove-and-influence steps of the Combat Phase.  Attacking population, on the other hand, is apparently done on a per-hex basis, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8063690#8063690&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this post by one of the designers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Similarly, population cubes are attacked after all battles &lt;em&gt;in one hex&lt;/em&gt; are resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7791844#7791844&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Earlier in the same thread&lt;/a&gt;, the same designer also states the following in regards to a rare case where order of resolution actually affects gameplay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If that's needed, resolve the hexes in descending numerical order, just like the battles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking these factoids and combining them with the rules as written, it seems the Combat Phase can be summarized (in a simplified form) with the following two steps, each performed to completion on a hex-by-hex basis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve battles&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fire missiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Engage the enemy (repeat as necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack population&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect reputation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Influence hexes (if sector is unpopulated)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove old owner's Influence Disc (if present)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Optionally place your own Influence Disc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the situation in OP, where the ability to influence a hex is dependent on an Influence Disc being freed during the same Combat Phase, it would appear that any Influence Discs freed would only be useable to influence hexes later in the resolution order with any hexes resolved earlier in the order remaining uninfluenced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T01:35:10.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6509" CreationDate="2012-02-10T03:22:59.887" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Andrew Looney (Fluxx, Icehouse) has written several great articles about game design on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WTS/Andy/GameDesign.html&quot;&gt;his blog&lt;/a&gt;, which I'd encourage you to check out (even if you don't like Fluxx). For the purposes of your question, I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://api.ning.com/files/DfEagAs7slrpSHrwQ9KEOzzeFBSEEcaZcDriZGcTVg3A10uSNOFiqysvm2HDi8V8ijb4Ib1dEkp5qWUX4aElxjjNgjXH3PYU/HowIDesignAGame4.jpg&quot;&gt;this graphic&lt;/a&gt; is very helpful (and funny).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He breaks playtesting down into three phases: inner circle of friends, outer circle of friends and random strangers. I have conducted playtesting on one game, and I agree wholeheartedly with these divisions. I don't know how far along you are, so I'll write this assuming you've only done the &quot;mental&quot; playtesting necessary to build a prototype and are looking for a first test run. There might be more detail in here than you need, but I think it's important to define the phases in order to help you find the appropriate people to fill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For initial testing, it's important to have people who are both friends and gamers. For me, this was my game group. To your concern about them not liking it, Looney's instruction about this phase is to &quot;repeat until fun&quot;, and I think that's a great distillation of the point: until the huge bugs are ironed out, you don't want to &quot;waste&quot; the interest level of people you don't know until your product is fairly polished. The friends part is important because they'll be patient with you, and the gamers part is important so that they'll have some frame of reference for any familiar mechanics, be able to make good suggestions from experience, and roll with things if you need to change them midstream. I'll also add that you shouldn't bother with a rulebook at this phase, at least not for others; you may end up changing things mid-game, let alone between games. Think of this as alpha or maybe even pre-alpha testing. If you don't have any gamer friends (and don't want to pay people to playtest), you really should make some if you want to have success designing. Many areas have game groups that you can find via BoardGameGeek or Meetup; if not, try starting a Meetup group yourself. (You may have success pulling pre-alpha testers off the street, but then I think your concern about them not liking the game and never coming back is valid.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've gotten things to the point where everyone is having fun (for me, my metric was when my friends started requesting the game), you can move on to the outer circle. For me, this was people like my father-in-law; he'll play games if asked, but won't seek them out on his own. It's helpful to get fresh eyes on it at this stage because the people who've seen the game since its inception have preconceived notions about it and, often, you'll run into situations where a mechanic or situation is a lot better than it was, but still not good enough. These folks are still friendly enough with you that they'll put up with a game with some kinks in it, but often not patient enough to sit though the broken sessions of your pre-alpha period. Family members and non-gamer friends (unless they're militant non-gamers) should do nicely here. This is probably more like alpha testing; you still should be the one explaining the game and possibly playing, but things should be less volatile at this point; changes should be more along the lines of tweaks than overhauls, and you probably shouldn't make any significant changes mid-session &quot;to see what happens&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you get to random stranger testing, you should have a product that someone could pick up off of a shelf and teach themselves how to play. The artwork doesn't have to be professional (or existent), but rules and player aids should exist, and everything should be clear. It's better at this point if you can be there in person, but don't say anything unless the group has answered a rules question incorrectly. This is the fly-on-the-wall point, like dropping your baby off at their first day of kindergarten and letting them go off into the world. Finding players for this stage is fairly easy, because you can find plenty on BoardGameGeek if you can't find anyone locally. I did my testing at a convention, which is a convenient place if you've got one you can reasonably get to. The key part here is to know your audience. If you're making a children's game, Origins or Gen Con is probably not the best place to approach people. Likewise, you wouldn't try a church youth group if your game is a 4-hour brain burner with a provocative theme. Try to find random strangers who are in your target audience; typically, this will be gamers, but not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastEditorUserId="2259" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T03:52:49.153" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T03:52:49.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6537" CreationDate="2012-02-10T04:53:56.650" Score="5" ViewCount="17802" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, normally you have two jokers, a big joker and a little joker. The big one is sometimes distinguished by being red (or colored). How does it work with decks with 4 or more jokers? Is is supposed to alternate black, red, black, red, or is only one supposed to be red, or should the red thing just be avoided with &gt; 2 jokers and some other scheme used to identify their rank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user2480" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:28:42.740" Title="How are jokers colored in decks with more than two jokers?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6527" CreationDate="2012-02-10T07:22:29.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no common convention for 4 Jokers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are usually two Jokers per deck, often noticeably different. For instance, Bicycle Playing Cards prints their company's guarantee claim on only one. More common traits are the appearance of colored and black/non-colored Jokers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and other &lt;a href=&quot;http://cardshistory.com/joker-card-history.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;websites&lt;/a&gt;, there are normally only two jokers. The qualities of which, including appearance were probably borrowed from the Tarrot trump cards the Magacian/Juggler and (which is red in color, and outranks) the Fool (which is black in color), both of which have the apperance of a court jester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T13:35:00.520" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T13:35:00.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6455" CreationDate="2012-02-10T10:41:50.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love random elements in games. Randomness doesn't mean you can't play optimal, it's just a lot harder to find optimal strategy because you have to correctly determine EV (expected value) and the odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you build up to prepare for FG on turn 5. If it appears your chance of winning is 75%. If it doesn't your chance of winning is 40% (just random numbers here). The odds of the first happening are 1 in 3 (so 2 in 3 for the second). This gives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Win% = 1/3 * 75% + 2/3 * 40% = 52%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the swinginess is higher (random numbers again):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Win% = 1/3 * 84% + 2/3 * 24% = 44% &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the &quot;prepare for FG on turn 5&quot; strat is very swingy it's probably best not to try it (I've only played Agricola a few times, so I have no idea what the actual win% for a strategy are, so maybe an expert player can fill these numbers in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T10:41:50.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6523" CreationDate="2012-02-10T16:48:21.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's right to say there are no &quot;targeted creatures&quot; in Magic.  Instants/sorceries have targets, and confusingly Auras are cards which are destined to become permanents, but &quot;fizzle&quot; if their target becomes invalid while they're still a spell on the stack.  But to date creature spells are exempt from being countered because of lack of legal targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be advised though, that if a creature says something like &quot;when [this] comes into play, destroy target creature&quot;, and there are no other creatures in play... no ifs or buts, it has to target and destroy itself!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T20:15:23.053" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T20:15:23.053" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-10T17:08:13.137" Score="1" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a cycle of instants and sorceries in New Phyrexia that have an effect and adds at the end a loss of life to the targeted player or the targeted permanent's controller: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vapor%20Snag&quot;&gt;Vapor Snag&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214376&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geth's Verdict&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Victorious%20Destruction&quot;&gt;Victorious Destruction&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194171&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glissa's Scorn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, at least I think it's a cycle. Problem is, I can't find the white one! Is there one, and I'm missing it? Was this lack of symmetry intentional by WotC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1462" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:38:36.093" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T19:01:05.047" Title="What's the missing white card in this New Phyrexia cycle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6532" CreationDate="2012-02-10T17:34:27.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing is, &quot;controller loses 1 life&quot; isn't really a white thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to choose a common instant/sorcery in white to fit into the cycle, I would choose &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230078&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;War Report&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of &quot;hating&quot; something and then having the controller lose life, White &quot;loves&quot; something (creatures and artifacts) and has the caster gain life. Yeah, not a perfect fit, but rather the counterpoint of the other 4 colour cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:39:52.083" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:39:52.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6532" CreationDate="2012-02-10T17:44:24.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;These aren't a cycle per se.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the fifth one, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPsychic%20Barrier%5d&quot;&gt;Psychic Barrier&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HW9NQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Psychic Barrier&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's more that &quot;loses 1 life&quot; (or &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213744&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gets a poison counter&lt;/a&gt;&quot;) was seen as an easy thing to tack onto staple effects to make them feel more &quot;Phyrexian&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T19:01:05.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T19:01:05.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6536" CreationDate="2012-02-10T20:46:45.963" Score="15" ViewCount="3057" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we play a board that has Workshop and Garden kingdom cards, I almost exclusively play them as my strategy. In the early game, I focus on buying Workshop and by the third round I typically get two &quot;buys&quot;, one in the Action phase with Workshop and the other in the Buy phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-game, I switch to buying Garden (which gives you one VP for every 10 cards in your deck) and if I have less than 3 coins in the Buy phase, I get an Estate or Copper. This strategy has proved to be almost 100% effective in rushing to deplete three decks and ending the game around turn 16 or 17.  I've only lost once or twice using this strategy and it's usually when I deviate from my plan and forget to pick up an Estate/Copper or pick up another card on a whim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this scenario, I'm only playing the base set and the third pile I'm depleting is Estates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are effective counter-strategies to a Workshop/Garden strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2467" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T06:37:29.773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:57:45.973" Title="What's a good counter-strategy to Workshop/Garden?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6535" CreationDate="2012-02-10T22:27:22.483" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Workshop/Gardens is usually a dominant strategy. There are a couple of exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishop can counter Gardens by buying Gardens and then trashing them for VP. This prevents the Gardens player from being able to get a favorable Gardens split and means that the Bishop player can focus on getting VP chips or Duchies while the Gardens player is buying out Workshops and whatever other pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cursing attacks can often foil a Gardens strategy. Since Gardens games tend to end fast, a difference of 3 or 4 points can be huge. The threat of pumping up the value of the opponent's Gardens is overrated; even if the Gardens player gets all 8 Gardens, 10 curses would still be a net loss of 2 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard attacks can significantly slow a Gardens player. Only having 3 cards in hand means that the person can probably keep a Workshop and 2 treasures, which will frequently be Coppers. That's not enough money to keep acquiring Workshops or to get a double Gardens. Ghost Ship is especially brutal because the Gardens player will have lots of bad cards, and so forcing him or her to see those cards multiple times instead of being able to just discard them is really painful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Embargo can make Gardens unattractive very quickly. Put an Embargo on the Workshop pile, then the Estate pile, then the Copper pile. Embargoing the Gardens themselves is ok, but usually the gardener will be gaining Gardens via Workshop and so the Embargo won't matter. If you Embargo their buy possibilities, however, it quickly slows down their deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quick mega-turn engine may be able to overwhelm a Gardens deck. I'm thinking about Native Village/Bridge, which can be used to end the game in a single turn. This engine might be fast enough to buy a couple of Provinces, drain the Estates, and end the game on piles. It's ridiculously difficult to simulate because of the pile-ending conditions and needing some intuition in order to decide when to pull the mega-turn, but I played a couple of solo games earlier today and it seems viable as a strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2012-02-10T22:41:27.940" LastActivityDate="2012-02-10T22:41:27.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6527" CreationDate="2012-02-11T03:06:42.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one 4-joker commercial deck I've seen used 2 black and 2 red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T03:06:42.213" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6535" CreationDate="2012-02-11T04:08:49.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did ask about expansions for a reason. My first two thoughts were modified versions of Workshop/Gardens: Ironworks and Silk Road. Maybe this isn't what you're asking exactly, but if either of those is around, you can beat Workshop/Gardens at its own game. Ironworks should be able to beat out Workshop - it does cost one more, but the extra benefit it gets you upon gaining a card makes it well worth it, especially given that I doubt you're buying a Gardens on your first two turns with a 4/3 split. Silk Road can easily be worth as much as Gardens if you're going all out gaining cheap victory cards. Compare the effort of gaining four victory cards to that of gaining ten cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Tournament is in the game, along with anything at all that might net you a reasonably early province and let you use it, you can do very well with most of the prizes. If someone manages to get &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the gardens and the estates in a two-player game, they'll probably be at either 35 or 43 points. That's not that hard a score to top if you're the only one at all capable of buying provinces. And toward the end of the game, it's very easy for the richer player to grab up a few of the lower VP cards and take a big chunk out of the Gardens deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T04:08:49.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6542" CreationDate="2012-02-11T13:43:18.950" Score="9" ViewCount="1733" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first we said that he simply loses his item, and sticks around until you're respawned...but then my friend changed his mind and thought that, given we were in a &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; dungeon/monster/treasure situation, he'd simply whistle over the hireling, who would be lost and afraid without a hero escorting him around. Listening to him, it almost seemed as if he had the hirelings best interest in mind while crafting his argument....&lt;em&gt;hmmmmm&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave him points for originality, but told him I'd have to consult with the community here first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T13:58:28.013" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T14:28:27.320" Title="Are Hirelings Looted From Your Dead Body?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6541" CreationDate="2012-02-11T13:49:04.390" Score="22" ViewCount="5535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought that this one was pretty simple, but the argument got heated after &lt;em&gt;multiple&lt;/em&gt; instances of challenging the rule that a thief can only steal something tangible, like weapons/potions/etc. The notion that a thief could steal your title is akin to (according to my argument) stealing someone's job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the verdict?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="2093" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T14:25:48.540" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T14:25:48.540" Title="Can a Thief Steal a Really Impressive Title?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6540" CreationDate="2012-02-11T14:11:31.817" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thieves can only steal Items. An Item either has a gold piece value or &amp;quot;No value&amp;quot; printed in the corner. Really Impressive Title has neither of these, so it is not an Item, so it can't be stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in earlier editions of Munchkin, this card was actually misprinted, and confusingly did in fact say &amp;quot;No Value&amp;quot;. Per the official Errata, this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/errata/munchkin/munchkin.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;corrected in the 19th printing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Corrected Errata&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Corrected in the 19th Printing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really Impressive Title is not an item, so it should not say &amp;quot;No Value&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T14:11:31.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6539" CreationDate="2012-02-11T14:28:27.320" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hirelings are just cards, like other cards. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; for looting are quite clear - you lose all the cards you had in play. So not only do you lose anything he's carrying, you lose your Hireling too (he runs off somewhere)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Death&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you die, you lose all your stuff.&#xA;  You keep your Class(es), Race(s), and Level (and any Curses that were affecting you&#xA;  when you died) – your new character will look just like your old one.&#xA;  If you have Half- Breed or Super Munchkin, keep those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looting The Body:&lt;/strong&gt; Lay out your hand beside the cards you had in play. Starting&#xA;  with the one with the highest Level, each other player chooses one&#xA;  card . . . in case of ties in level, roll a die. If your corpse runs&#xA;  out of cards, tough. After everyone gets one card, the rest are&#xA;  discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dead characters cannot receive cards for any reason, not&#xA;  even Charity, and cannot level up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your new character appears when the&#xA;  next player begins his turn, and can help others in combat . . . but&#xA;  you have no cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T14:28:27.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2012-02-11T14:42:54.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend experimented with this, but he ultimately determined it to be too much effort;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two players are each dealt two player's worth of treasure and door cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going back and forth, they take the role of each of their players, back and forth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No trading between your own two characters&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;sub&gt;note: stealing as a Theif over-rides this&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No helping in fights between your own two characters&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;sub&gt;note: the &lt;em&gt;Kneepads of Allure&lt;/em&gt; over-rides this&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No wandering monsters from your side in &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; fight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the last rule is that its tempting to beef up one character, and have the other intentionally go out of their way to serve as the other players stepping stool. An interesting case that led to rule #5 was the use of a &lt;code&gt;Potted Plant&lt;/code&gt; with a &lt;code&gt;Wandering Monster&lt;/code&gt; card during his other character's level 8 fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try this, please leave a comment with your thoughts, and any additional rules you added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="2093" LastEditDate="2012-02-11T14:48:05.733" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T14:48:05.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2012-02-11T16:03:45.420" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to have to go with the &lt;strong&gt;up-front option&lt;/strong&gt;. I must disagree with the logic used in previous postings. In the study of law there is a rule called the rule against impossibilities. The game rules are clear that you must have 3 action cards and that each action card is resolved individually. However, you create the possibility of an impossibility where you are able to play a king's court/throne room with the anticipation of drawing the necessary action cards. For example, say I have in my starting hand just 3 actions, 2 king's courts and some additional action card. Even where the action card allows me to draw several cards there is the very real possibility that you will not draw any additional action cards. I do not believe that the game creators would have intended someone to play a hand in hopes that the hand will be a valid hand only to find that it wasn't. This creates problems of either knowing what cards you are going to be drawing or shuffling cards into a different order, and by consequence potentially negating the effects of other players' cards (i.e. the bureaucrat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second option would be a hybrid where you have all 3 necessary action cards but you are able to supplement/replace those action cards with drawn action cards. This option is obviously riddled with problems. Such as, does a player have to reveal that they have the necessary action cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway I full expect people to disagree. If you do find a flaw in my logic please let me know so that I can adapt my game play accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2486" LastActivityDate="2012-02-11T16:03:45.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-12T05:15:12.503" Score="2" ViewCount="127" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9440/maharaja-the-game-of-palace-building-in-india&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maharaja&lt;/a&gt; rules state that I can take my two actions any way I like.  I can even sub-divide the actions.  So for example, given the &quot;build palace and house&quot; action, I could build a palace in one city, move my architect to the next city, and then build the house of that same action in the new city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I have is: how many times can I make moves during my turn?  Only once?  More than once?  For example: after taking one action, moving, and taking part of my second action - can I then move a second time to another city and take the remainder of my second action?  If yes, then I could perhaps have visited as many as four cities in one turn (based on two actions, with each action sub-divided).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2488" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T22:33:09.973" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T22:33:09.973" Title="How many moves can I make in a single turn in Maharaja?" Tags="|maharaja|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5194" CreationDate="2012-02-12T10:33:47.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mechanical shufflers come in several types. The simplest are the hand cranked gravity fed multi-wheel versions... and are the only ones I've much experience with, having owned two. (Both inherited.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These particular ones both use a wheel to throw cards into the central bay from two elevated bays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some cards end up face up - I've averaged 1 face-up per 3 shuffles or so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cards can get scratched on the metal surfaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can't handle anything that's not &quot;standard height&quot; - it'll do bridge and poker decks of the 3.5&quot; tall variety, but it won't do larger cards, as they get stuck, nor smaller, as they don't stack up in the center bay.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;crunches over-thick cards badly. In other words, 110# cardstock won't work well, as home cutting results in being too thick to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kem and other solid plastic cards don't grip right - increased flipping, and more manual downpressure required&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;older machines' rubber wheels lose tackiness, and don't drag cards as effectively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not quiet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the automated ones I've seen have the same issues plus &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not stopping if a jam occurs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;needing a source of electricity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;being even noisier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not used it enough to determine edge wear effects, but Kem used to note that shuffling machines voided their warrantees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T10:33:47.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5690" CreationDate="2012-02-12T16:50:29.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;What The Game Looks Like&quot; info graphic in the Monopoly Deal rulebook strongly implies that the bank pile is &lt;strong&gt;public information&lt;/strong&gt; - the bank piles in the picture are quite carefully arranged so that each card is partially visible (in much the same way as Magic the Gathering players conventionally arrange their graveyards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, &quot;strongly implied&quot; is not the same as &quot;explicitly stated&quot;.  If everyone in your playgroup enjoys the new element of strategy that playing in this way adds, then I say definitely go for it.  As you say, you trust your group not to cheat, so the potential major cheating problem you envisage is not a problem at all.  If there is such a thing as high-stakes Monopoly Deal tournaments, I imagine those would have to enforce the keeping of bank piles as public information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end you just have to decide which of two different play styles your group wishes to subscribe to.  With hidden information, some very exciting play scenarios are created, where with a good poker face you may be able to trick people into believing you're not doing as well as you are.  With public information, you create a much more calculated game, where players have to find an objectively best strategy in the face of all dangers.  Do you consider yourself more of a poker player, or a chess player, that's the question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I'm not generally a big fan of concealed information for its own sake.  Having to count cards, watch other players' movements and demeanour carefully, and keep track of information in my head - that can turn into a lot of work for the player who wants to do well!  But of course your mileage may and probably does vary.  If the game seems boring to you when all the cards are on the table then you aren't wrong to want to spice things up with a house rule, and you almost certainly should do so!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T16:50:29.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5690" CreationDate="2012-02-12T18:26:42.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook clearly shows the bank piles splayed out with all cards showing, so it is likely that the Bank is public information. Since total cards in hand is also public information (since you can only have 7 cards in hand at the end of your turn), cheating shouldn't be too much of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forums/thing/40398/monopoly-deal-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forums on BGG&lt;/a&gt;, many groups actually play with all cards in players Banks face-down, with the only public information is the number of cards in a players bank. This didn't seem to break the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rulebook and the Official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/monopoly/en_US/discover/faq.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; do not clarify if Bank contents are public information, and no official variants exist to my knowledge. But, since other groups have found no issues with keeping the Bank private, and since you could catch cheaters by keeping track of other public information, I don't see anything game breaking about your variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You variant actually does influence some other strategic decisions. If you can charge rent that equals or exceeds the top card of a players Bank, you might be able to force them to reveal a different &quot;top card&quot; on their bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T13:53:05.230" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T13:53:05.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2012-02-12T21:20:28.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In tournaments, certainly, a passed hand is treated like any other; both pairs get a zero score.  But in some (NB not all) of those clubs where the hands are dealt at the first table rather than set up by the TD, it is the convention to re-deal a hand that is passed out the first time, on the grounds that it's likely to be passed out every time, and so give everybody the same score.  Of course, this alters the play at subsequent tables: before you pass out, you have to consider that somebody at the first table did bid on one of these hands.  So it's only used in friendly club evenings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(FWIW, I am opposed to this variant: I reckon on a small but reliable bonus from simply passing bad hands, and letting the rival pairs go down after trying out their gadgets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-02-12T21:20:28.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6552" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-13T02:07:51.017" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some board games tend to have a lot of complex rules, and many also have several official variants.  Sometimes the mechanics of a mobile device (iPhone, Android, iPad), make implementing some rules cumbersome.  In these cases, do the mobile versions take liberties with how faithful of an adaptation they implement?  Do they tend to also implement rule variations?  When things are changed, are the changes generally received well, or do gamers, in general, feel let down by the changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T20:07:36.680" Title="To what extent do mobile adaptations of board games change the games?" Tags="|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2012-08-14T16:32:44.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6555" CreationDate="2012-02-13T03:07:44.953" Score="11" ViewCount="16025" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an Aura is placed on the battlefield using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207882&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Genesis Wave&lt;/a&gt; or an ability like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241833&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sun Titan's&lt;/a&gt;, can it enchant a creature that has shroud (or an opponent-controlled creature with hexproof)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at these rules specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4a An Aura spell requires a target, which is restricted by its enchant ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4f If an Aura is entering the battlefield under a player’s control by any means other than by&#xA;     resolving as an Aura spell, and the effect putting it onto the battlefield doesn’t specify the object&#xA;     or player the Aura will enchant, that player chooses what it will enchant as the Aura enters the&#xA;     battlefield. The player must choose a legal object or player according to the Aura’s enchant&#xA;     ability and any other applicable effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.17a Shroud is a static ability. “Shroud” means “This permanent or player can’t be the target of&#xA;     spells or abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T13:54:08.753" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T13:54:08.753" Title="Can an Aura which was not cast be attached to a permanent with shroud?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6553" CreationDate="2012-02-13T04:12:42.247" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they may. The cards you mentioned returned those Auras to the battlefield, so only 303.4 applies here. It should also be notes that the aura must enchant a legal object (i.e. Auras with &quot;enchant player&quot; must enchant players, auras with &quot;enchant a creature you control&quot; cannot enchant noncreatures and cannot enchant opponents creatures, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aura spells (i.e. Cards cast from your hand, and added to the stack), do require a target. It is unfortunate that they are the only spells that target, without &quot;target&quot; within the rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T04:21:50.843" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T04:21:50.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6552" CreationDate="2012-02-13T04:59:21.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably going to have to perform more research to find an answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, mobile application developers take liberties.&#xA;I would guess that few mobile app developers implement variations, official or not. no one is going to waste development time on version 1 implementing a variant that might not be played. (but the only way to verify this would be to find all mobile apps for Boardgames and figure out which of those have game variations in physical form, then figure out what percentage of those have mobile app variants)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are mobile apps that behave differently received well? Don't know. Do you know of a polling company that does this kind of research? Do you have a list of all liberal implementations of board games, such that a poll could determine that 50% or more of those games were received poorly/well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think your question can be answered without considerable effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T04:59:21.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6553" CreationDate="2012-02-13T07:18:17.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they certainly can.  In fact this is a famous counterintuitive loophole (or we can be polite and call it a &quot;quirk&quot;) remaining in the tidied-up modern rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ETA&lt;/strong&gt;: Initially I thought an Aura might even be able to come into play attached to a creature with Protection from that Aura's colour (before falling off again as a state-based effect).  This is not in fact true: protection represents a complete inability to be enchanted by Auras of the stated quality.  So the lesson here is, if you want to make sure your hexproof/shroud creatures really can't be sneakily enchanted by  Auras, give them protection from as many of your opponent's colours as possible too.  The belt-and-braces approach!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a fun question for you in return: if Genesis Wave puts Fist of Ironwood onto the battlefield when it has no creatures to enchant, do you get to put two 1/1 Saprolings into play?  Actually I'm going to have to go and ask this question immediately because I'm not 100% sure of the answer :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T08:16:09.783" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T08:16:09.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6560" CreationDate="2012-02-13T07:25:36.813" Score="9" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question arose as a response to a recent question about putting Auras onto creatures with Shroud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genesis%20Wave&quot;&gt;Genesis Wave&lt;/a&gt;, let's say for 2, and reveal &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fists%20of%20Ironwood&quot;&gt;Fists of Ironwood&lt;/a&gt; on an otherwise creatureless battlefield.  Does Fists still come into play for a while without creatures to enchant, giving me two 1/1 Saprolings?  Or do I even get two 1/1 Saprolings one of which has an enchantment giving it Trample (lucky me)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus question: what happens if I Genesis Wave for 5 instead and reveal 3 instants, Fists of Ironwood and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bramble%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Bramble Elemental&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a possible clue in Bramble Elemental's Oracle text (I'll leave finding that as a treasure hunt for the reader) but it still leaves me unclear - when Genesis Wave does its work, does it Fists of Ironwood come into play already attached to the Elemental, or do they both come into play and then get attached by the player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:36:08.757" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T16:36:08.757" Title="What happens if Genesis Wave puts Fists of Ironwood onto a battlefield with no creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2012-02-13T08:11:41.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;h3&gt;GW + FoI + no other creatures&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you cast Genesis Wave and reveal Fists of Ironwood, with no creatures in play and no creatures revealed by GW. Genesis Wave talks about putting cards in play, not casting them as spells, so this situation is covered by rule 303.4g:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4g If an Aura is entering the battlefield and there is no legal object or player for it to enchant, the Aura remains in its current zone, unless that zone is the stack. In that case, the Aura is put into its owner‘s graveyard instead of entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see how this interacts with Genesis Wave, note that the resolution of Genesis Wave contains three actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal the top X cards from your library. This doesn't say to put the cards anywhere else, so the revealed cards are still considered to be in your library while they are revealed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put any number of revealed permanent cards on to the battlefield. If the only permanent you reveal is an Aura but it has nothing to enchant, rule 303.4g specifies that it remains in your library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put all revealed cards that weren't put on the battlefield into your graveyard. This includes the Aura that wasn't put on the battlefield since there was nothing for it to enchant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Fists of Ironwood would wind up in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that (in general) it is not possible for Fists of Ironwood to come into play enchanting one of the tokens it creates. Those tokens are created by a triggered ability that only triggers (and goes on the stack) when Fists of Ironwood enters the battlefield. But the enchantment needs something to enchant right from the moment it enters the battlefield; it can't wait for the triggered ability to resolve to create a creature for it to be attached to. But the tokens don't come into existence until the triggered ability resolves, which occurs later, after both players have had a chance to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;GW + FoI + another creature revealed&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Genesis Wave does reveal a creature that would be a legal target for Fists of Ironwood, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/28772081/Auras_and_Genesis_Wave&amp;amp;post_num=2#513871719&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post on the Wizards community forums&lt;/a&gt; states that you still can't put the Aura into play enchanting the creature. The reason is basically what I guessed before. Placing a permanent on the battlefield consists of two &quot;substeps:&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make any choices required prior to placing the permanent in play. For an Aura, this includes determining whether it can legally enchant something, and if there are multiple options, choosing which one it will enchant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actually put the permanent on the battlefield subject to the choices (if any) made in the previous substep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't think this is specifically detailed in the rules, but it should make sense that you have to choose what an Aura will enchant before putting the Aura into play enchanting that thing.) When multiple permanents are revealed with Genesis Wave, substep 2 occurs simultaneously for all of them (rules 101.4, 608.2e), so substep 1 necessarily happens prior to putting &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of the permanents in play. And you can't choose something that's not on the battlefield for an Aura to be attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also covers the case with Bramble Elemental: Fists of Ironwood can't be put on the battlefield enchanting Bramble Elemental if both are revealed with Genesis Wave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T21:05:03.020" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T21:05:03.020" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6559" CreationDate="2012-02-13T09:16:38.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4f If an Aura is entering the battlefield under a player's control by any means other than by resolving as an Aura spell, and the effect putting it onto the battlefield doesn't specify the object or player the Aura will enchant, &lt;strong&gt;that player chooses what it will enchant as the Aura enters the battlefield. &lt;em&gt;The player must choose a legal object or player according to the Aura's enchant ability and any other applicable effects&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your first question, there are no legal targets to choose, and so the Fists of Ironwood goes to the graveyard (either due to 303.4f and 303.4g as pointed out above, or because the player can choose to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your second question, the Bramble Elemental and the Fists of Ironwood would be entering the battlefield at the same time, therefore there would be no legal target for the Fists of Ironwood and it would go into the graveyard, again to due 303.4f and 303.4g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2491" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T09:16:38.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2012-02-13T14:06:46.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a hand is passed out, every team that passes it out gets a 0 raw score. These players will also get the same matchpoint score as other teams sitting in the same seats (East-West, or North-South) with a 0 score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the likelihood that SOME pair(s) will play out the deal. Then they will get a higher or lower matchpoint score than average, depending on high they do relative to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T14:06:46.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6563" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-13T17:49:11.723" Score="12" ViewCount="29078" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another question arose from my &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6472/in-monopoly-is-it-ok-for-a-third-party-to-make-a-trade-with-a-player-who-is-abo&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;: What is the order of actions in Monopoly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of actions that may take place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase property&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay rent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Improve properties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trade with players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to jail&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are others too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the rules and didn't notice any specified order for your turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what actions can I take when it's not my turn? For example, can I trade with another player, or improve my properties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2445" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2018-12-29T20:30:05.820" Title="What are the order of actions in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-13T19:14:34.907" Score="0" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3397/should-i-trash-copper-or-silver-with-mine&quot;&gt;Should I trash copper or silver with Mine?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, when playing the Mine card, you can &quot;&lt;em&gt;Trash a Treasure card from your hand. Gain a Treasure card costing up to 3 Coins more; put it into your hand.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. If you have only Copper or Silver in your hand, then the choice is obvious which to upgrade. If you have both Copper and Silver in your hand, what are the pros and cons to upgrading one over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2467" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T18:06:39.380" Title="When playing the Mine, which Treasure do you upgrade first?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-02-13T19:45:38.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6552" CreationDate="2012-02-13T20:07:36.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As user1873 says, a full answer to this question would take a tremendous amount of research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think the general rule is that many (most?) representations are perfectly faithful to the original rules or are clearly laid out as variants.  The mobile versions of Chess, and Zombie dies are true to the rules.  The mobile Go games can get slightly quirky for scoring for complicated board positions (deciding whether a shape is alive or dead), but the game play itself is true to the rules and the automated scoring as close to perfect as possible (many have a fallback of letting the humans decide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As The Chaz points out even more modern games with complicated rules often have true-to-rules adaptations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, I suspect most adapations are true-to-original when they are amenable to being adaptabled and those that are simply not amenable to being adapted (pictionary?  Charades?) are simply not adapter.  There are certainly some exceptions, but I suspect they are just that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T20:07:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6563" CreationDate="2012-02-13T21:24:39.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the way the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are themselves ordered...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throw the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the indicated distance or to jail (if 3rd double in a turn)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;collect $200 if land on or pass Go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resolve space&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ownable properties&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pay rent if owned and not mortgaged&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy it if unowned (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aution property if still unowned (not optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-ownable properties&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resolve as indicated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;collect $200 if resolving puts you passing Go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pass the dice or roll again, as appropriate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only action which is doable outside one's turn (according to the instructions I've got off-line, in my deluxe box) are buying auctioned properties, buying or trading properties with other players, and using cards that say &quot;use at any time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other actions (buying houses/hotels, selling houses/hotels, mortgaging properties, unmortgaging properties) can be done at any point in your own turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-02-13T22:31:40.867" LastActivityDate="2012-02-13T22:31:40.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6563" CreationDate="2012-02-14T00:03:55.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three main actions are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Roll dice&#xA;2) Move token&#xA;3) Pay the &quot;piper&quot; (rent, purchase price, fine, or go to jail) as the case may be. In the case of some chance or community chest cards, you may receive money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two &quot;stickier&quot; issues are trades and property improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most interpretations of the rules say that you can trade properties or other consideration (get out of jail free cards) at any time. That's because it takes two players to make a trade. The one caveat is that if you have landed on something and owe rent or a fine, you cannot trade property until it is clear that you can pay the rent/fine from other sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main question mark is regard to improvements. Here, the official rules are not clear. In many games, there are &quot;house rules&quot; that say a player may buy and sell improvements (including mortgage and unmortgage) only during his/her own turn. Another set of &quot;house rules&quot; say that a player may buy/sell/mortgage property only at the BEGINNING of a turn (before the dice have been rolled). Basically, these rules are meant to prevent players from buying houses and jacking up the rent AFTER someone has landed on a property. In &quot;real life&quot; you couldn't just move a house onto property where people are &quot;staying;&quot; the house would have to have been built beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T00:03:55.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2012-02-14T00:41:29.677" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beginners usually concentrate on the continent bonuses, but they're actually not all that important.  A few key tactical points to remeber:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;always make an attack every turn to gain a card.  Other than that, you don't want to attack unless there's a good reason&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;always strive to NOT be the strongest player, or the weakest.  They're the targets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;THE key tactic is wiping out another player to gain their cards giving you 5+ to immediately turn in for a set and keep going.  Always keep track of how many cards everyone has.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn order is very important.  You want to try to arrange things so that the player that moves before you can't wipe out the weakest player and needs to attack the strongest player instead.  Note that who is weak and who is strong can shift rapidly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this, everything depends on the play style of your opponents.  If someone has a preference for a particular continent, use that in your negotiations -- get something from them in return for 'allowing' them to have their pet area, while convincing the other players to attack the player with the continent bonus as they're winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T00:41:29.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2012-02-14T02:07:38.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're using the Distant Suns option, you could try foregoing that as the slow-down in planet acquisition means almost anything else is going to be delayed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2495" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T02:07:38.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6571" CreationDate="2012-02-14T09:20:27.037" Score="1" ViewCount="1430" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother plays a Mono-Black standard-format deck against me often. He has some big threats in there like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214386&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Obliterator&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214359&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lashwrithe&lt;/a&gt; as well as many cards with phyrexian mana to fuel his rage extractors. Smaller creatures I see all the time are &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218043&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Porcelain Legionnaire&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=217984&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vault Skirge&lt;/a&gt;. In addition to that he has some discard spells for control. I don't have his exact deck list but that's what I am facing all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main idea is to stall me as long as he needs to get his threats out and overwhelm me in the end. This works really well against most of my decks and compete almost on even ground against my strong decks like &quot;elves&quot;, &quot;tempered steel&quot; and &quot;solar flare&quot;. His weakest match up at the moment is against my GW-Token deck, similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://puremtgo.com/articles/wg-tokens-standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, except that I have 4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oblivion Rings&lt;/a&gt; in the main deck and no &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220074&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Timely Reinforcements&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should he put into his sideboard to be able to compete against this deck? I would suggest some &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220371&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarters&lt;/a&gt; to deal with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233242&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gavony Township&lt;/a&gt; but this still leaves him with the problem of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=206347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shrine of Loyal Legions&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243217&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Intangible Virtue&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212241&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elspeth Tirel&lt;/a&gt; which he usually has no real answer to. Especially when I use my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234567&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oblivion Rings&lt;/a&gt; on his threats it is game over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which Mono-Black or Phyrexian-Mana spells can address this problem in Standard (Scars - Innistrad - M12)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T13:54:24.137" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T17:35:15.610" Title="What should Mono-B put in sideboard against GW-Tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2012-02-14T10:27:29.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black Sun's Zenith and Ratchet Bomb can help gain some time and clear the way for his creatures to hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the planeswalkers and the Shrine are still a problem, Hex Parasite should really help fix that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look at Pro Tour Honolulu deck lists for inspiration. I'd recommend you to watch Jasper Johnson-Epstein's mono-black &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/ptdka12/videodt5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;deck tech&lt;/a&gt; — deck list can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/ptdka12/stddecks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (search for his name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T10:27:29.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:20:08.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some popular options (besides those mentioned by @rahzark) are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sever the Bloodline&lt;/a&gt; - exiling all of the tokens of one type (with flashback!) is pretty nice, especially if they're your only fliers and he manages to get a Vault Skirge with Lashwrithe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of Death's Hold&lt;/a&gt; - getting this if you don't have an Intangible Virtue pretty much ruins your day, but otherwise it's a pretty expensive cancellation of said Intangible Virtue. Nonetheless, it's probably worth sideboarding anyway because of its effectiveness in the current meta.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Corrosive Gale&lt;/a&gt; - however, it's pretty specific, and doesn't really work well enough given that Lingering Souls has flashback and your threats can be of the flying or non-flying variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he's willing to splash red, he does have a few more options, but that is a big commitment (especially if he's running things like Obliterator):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194383&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Whipflare&lt;/a&gt; for non-artifact creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214054&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slagstorm&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249660&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rolling Temblor&lt;/a&gt; for a worse version with flashback&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all of this, I'd say Sever the Bloodline is actually the best option outside of Black Sun's Zenith and Ratchet Bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T14:50:10.327" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:50:10.327" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:24:24.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Proven answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt;: against Tokens, this is a &lt;strong&gt;one-sided sweeper&lt;/strong&gt;; you can also ratchet it up to destroy cards like anthems or O-Rings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214061&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt;: a regular ol' sweeper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of Death's Hold&lt;/a&gt;: great weenie hate, although somewhat ineffective in this anthem-happy format unless you can actually deal with the anthems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220371&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;: kills Inkmoths and utility lands; I'd maindeck these if you plan to run them, unless you're already got Inkmoth Nexus watering down the colors in the maindeck; almost every Standard deck has lands you want to kill, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Niche cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sever the Bloodline&lt;/a&gt;: like a more limited Ratchet Bomb against decks that tend to just have one type of token, but it does double as spot removal in a pinch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218008&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hex Parasite&lt;/a&gt;: kills planeswalkers (also Illusions), keeps Shrines (of Burning Rage, but also Loyal Legions) in check; could probably be maindecked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt;: a niche solution, but it fixes &quot;I can answer this once but it's gonna suck if my opponent finds another one&quot;; much better if you're playing Snapcasters or hand-peeking cards, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T14:31:15.737" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T14:31:15.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2012-02-14T14:52:00.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that you take a look at this article:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/490643/making-cards-youll-never-use-your-old-method-again&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Making Cards: You’ll never use your old method again&lt;/a&gt;, it's basically a tutorial about making cards with linen cover stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you will need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Linen cover stock (67lb)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spray adhesive&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rolling pin&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Craft knife (or rotary cutter)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Metal ruler&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cutting mat&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Corner punch&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Light table (or reasonable substitute)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T00:41:52.090" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T00:41:52.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6403" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:32:49.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd only offer a few more suggestions over those given so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The delightful book by Kageyama, &lt;strong&gt;Lessons In The Fundamentals Of Go&lt;/strong&gt;. Besides being an excellent all round resource and pleasingly written, it has a chapter, ch8, on some fundamentals of shape. It may be too basic for your skill level, but it is a must read for any Go player in my opinion. Heres a link to the details for this book on Senseis Library.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?LessonsInTheFundamentalsOfGo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?LessonsInTheFundamentalsOfGo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the Rob van Zeijst, Richard Bozulich book &lt;strong&gt;Making Good Shape&lt;/strong&gt;, which is volume 3 of their &quot;Mastering the Basics&quot; series. It is a shape problem book, and I find many of the problems to be challenging.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I would look at pro games, both new and old. They are full of examples of good shape, and exploits of bad shape. Both books above have pro games in them to review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2501" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T17:32:49.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6581" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:33:50.713" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brink%20of%20Disaster&quot;&gt;Brink of Disaster&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant creature or land.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When enchanted permanent becomes tapped, destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you enchant something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shrine%20of%20Burning%20Rage&quot;&gt;Shrine of Burning Rage&lt;/a&gt;, and it's owner goes to tap and sacrifice it, would Brink of Disaster trigger before the sacrifice, or is the cost for the Shrine paid all at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:20:20.217" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:20:20.217" Title="Brink of Disaster timing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6580" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:34:26.880" Score="8" ViewCount="2241" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks me with say, a 6/6 trample generic Wyrm of some sort, and I block with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whispering%20Specter&quot;&gt;Whispering Specter&lt;/a&gt;, a 1/1 infect with flying. When damage is dealt the Specter will deal it in the form of a -1/-1 counter from its infect ability. Well, the Wyrm would normally deal me 5 leftover trample damage, so is this damage lowered by -1 from the counter given by the Specter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:19:07.080" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:19:07.080" Title="How does trample work against infect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6570" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:35:15.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despise is a great early card that can potentially remove some big threats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T17:35:15.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6582" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:41:37.603" Score="6" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone attacks me with a trample creature say, 6/6, I block with a 1/1 deathtouch AND have Dissipation Field in play (returns permanents that damage me to their owners' hands),&#xA;will the wyrm go back to his owner's hand or does it die from my deathtouch creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:33:03.530" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:33:03.530" Title="Is death from deathtouch a state based action?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6577" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:53:46.733" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you would suffer up to 5 damage if the opponent choose to assign the trample damage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two creatures deal combat to each other, it's simultaneous. So, for example, a non-trampling 6/6 would deal 6 damage to your 1/1, causing 6 damage to become &quot;marked&quot; on it, while, concurrently, your 1/1 would deal 1 point of infect damage to the 6/6, causing a -1/-1 counter to be put on it. The counters &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trample doesn't add an extra step to damage resolution, it just changes how damage is assigned. So, a trampling 6/6 allows its controller to assign 1 damage to your 1/1 (since that's enough to kill it) and as much of the remaining damage as he wants to you. You, your blocker, and the attacking creature all take damage simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you blocked the 6/6 trampler with a 1/1 creature that had both infect and first strike, then its infect damage would be applied first, giving the 6/6 a -1/-1 counter, and then you'd only take a maximum of 4 trample damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T14:30:35.323" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T14:30:35.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6576" CreationDate="2012-02-14T17:56:28.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You pay all the costs during the activation of an ability, as an action that doesn't use the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the Shrine's ability has gone on the stack, Brink of Disaster's trigger will go on the stack on top of it (meaning it will resolve first). There's no permanent for it to destroy, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T17:56:28.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6579" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:12:43.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Death from deathtouch is a state-based action. Specifically, this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5h If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and it's been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based&#xA;  actions were checked, that creature is destroyed. Regeneration can&#xA;  replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability from Dissipation Field will still go on the stack, but its target will be dead by the time it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-14T18:18:16.423" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T18:18:16.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6579" CreationDate="2012-02-14T18:13:59.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trample creature will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;702.2c&lt;/a&gt; A creature with toughness greater than 0 that's been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked is destroyed as a state-based action. See rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sequence goes like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage is assigned by players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage is dealt simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissipation Field triggers due to damage to player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Active player is about to receive priority, due to rule 704, game checks for state-based actions. Due to 702.2c, the trample creature is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dissipation field ability is put on the stack, but when it resolves does nothing, as it can no longer find the trample creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T16:04:36.533" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T16:04:36.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-14T19:27:12.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let’s say I have a creature in the graveyard.  I then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Postmortem%20Lunge&quot;&gt;Postmortem Lunge&lt;/a&gt;, which reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Return target creature card with converted mana cost X from your&#xA;graveyard to the battlefield. It gains haste. Exile it at the&#xA;beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, after bring the creature back, I sacrifice it, or it dies some other way.  At the end of my turn would Postmortem Lunge exile it out of my graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:17:42.020" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:17:42.020" Title="What happens if you sacrifice a creature brought back with Postmortem Lunge?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6584" CreationDate="2012-02-14T19:45:51.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This card has the following &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=postmortem+lunge&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oracle ruling&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the creature is no longer on the battlefield at the beginning of the next end step, it won't be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an instance of general principle: when an effect states that a card moves from one zone to another, if the target card is no longer in the starting zone when the effect resolves, then the effect is countered. In this particular case, Postmortem Lunge creates a delayed trigger which implicitly expects its target to be on the battlefield when it resolves, since that's where the card last put that creature. If the target is no longer on the battlefield, then the effect is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-02-14T19:45:51.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6587" CreationDate="2012-02-15T04:40:45.230" Score="7" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played our first games with the Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor expansion tonight, and ran across a scoring question that's not precisely covered by the rules.  The rules are pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Mayor counts as a meeple, so you can't play him where another meeple is already present.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Mayor counts as one follower for each pennant in the city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if a city with no pennants is closed (or the game ends) and the only meeple in the city is a Mayor?  Does that player score zero points for the city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T04:46:54.427" Title="How do you score the Mayor in a city with no pennants?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6586" CreationDate="2012-02-15T04:46:54.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No points are scored.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/forum/index.php?topic=587.0&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt; p58 (note 161)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: Blue has a mayor in a city with no pennants. Does the city count as occupied? And if&#xA;  so, when the city is scored, will blue score points? Answer: The city is occupied. The mayor has no&#xA;  ‘strength’, so he counts as if there is no follower, and scores no points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T04:46:54.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6588" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-15T05:39:46.940" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T05:39:46.940" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T05:39:46.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6589" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-15T05:39:46.940" Score="0" Body="Risk: Legacy is a futuristic version of Risk set on an &quot;Earth&quot; copy. Players tear-up, markup, and change the game components and the rules of the game over a 15-game campaign, at the end of which will leave them with their own unique world. Questions and answers which reveal changes and other hidden content should use spoiler markup where appropriate." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2018-12-25T02:32:02.247" LastActivityDate="2018-12-25T02:32:02.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6591" CreationDate="2012-02-15T06:08:31.433" Score="5" ViewCount="2238" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loyal%20Cathar&quot;&gt;Loyal Cathar&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Loyal Cathar dies, return it to the battlefield transformed under&#xA;your control at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undying%20Evil&quot;&gt;Undying Evil&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gains undying until end of turn. (When it dies, if it&#xA;had no +1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its&#xA;owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast Undying Evil on Loyal Cathar and it dies, would it come back as a Loyal Cathar with a +1/+1, come back as its transformed self, come back transformed AND with the +1/+1, or some other combination that I'm not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T23:42:17.783" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T23:42:17.783" Title="How does a Loyal Cathar react to Undying Evil?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6590" CreationDate="2012-02-15T06:22:14.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would come back as Loyal Cathar with a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying Evil's triggered ability returns Loyal Cathar to the battlefield upon dying, Loyal Cathar's triggered ability sets up a delayed triggered ability that returns the card &quot;at the beginning of the next end step&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loyal Cathar's normal return-to-battlefield trigger won't find the card in the graveyard when it resolves, so will fail to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.7c A delayed triggered ability that refers to a particular object still affects it even if the object changes characteristics. However, if that object is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at the time the delayed triggered ability resolves, the ability won’t affect it. (Note that if that object left that zone and then returned, it’s a new object and thus won’t be affected. See rule 400.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T17:15:25.473" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T17:15:25.473" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6596" CreationDate="2012-02-15T12:26:29.597" Score="19" ViewCount="8554" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for the Unearth ability are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.82a Unearth is an activated ability that functions while the card with unearth is in a graveyard. Unearth [cost] means [Cost]: Return this card from your graveyard to the battlefield. It gains haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step. &lt;strong&gt;If it would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else.&lt;/strong&gt; Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I unearth a creature, and then cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flicker&quot; title=&quot;Exile target nontoken permanent, then return it to the battlefield under its owner's control.&quot;&gt;Flicker&lt;/a&gt; to exile and return it, does the replacement effect cause Flicker to lose track of it, or is Flicker still able to see the exiled card and return it to the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Are there similar combinations of spells or abilities that would result in a different outcome?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T14:26:22.467" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T13:39:14.037" Title="If I cast Flicker on an unearthed creature, does it remain exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6593" CreationDate="2012-02-15T13:30:08.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It remains exiled&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that Unearth replaces Flicker's exile effect with its own effect, which happens to be an exile effect as well. However, since the creature was exiled through an effect other than Flicker's, Flicker won't return the creature in this case, because the creature is now a different object, despite being in the same zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules reference should be this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;607.1. An object may have two abilities printed on it such that one of them causes actions to be taken or objects to be affected and the other one directly refers to those actions or objects. If so, these two abilities are linked: &lt;strong&gt;the second refers only to actions that were taken or objects that were affected by the first, and not by any other ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Flicker's ability is linked: (1) It exiles a non-token permanent, and then (2) returns exactly that object to the battlefield. However, since (1) never happened (it was replaced by Unearth), it also can't do (2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I could also say the opposite:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7g A resolving spell or activated ability can perform actions on an object that moved from one zone to another while that spell was being cast or that ability was being activated, if that object moved to a public zone.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I retract my answer since it's not an answer any more&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just not sure. Does Flicker lose track of the creature because of the replacement effect, or not? The object is clearly in the correct zone, and it has been in public zones all the time, and it didn't change zones wildly, so it might be able to keep track via 400.7g. I'm excited to see a convincing rules reference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T14:04:30.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6593" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:03:35.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unearth's replacement effect doesn't apply. It is looking for the &lt;strong&gt;unearthed&lt;/strong&gt; card being put someplace other than &lt;strong&gt;exile&lt;/strong&gt;, and then replacing that event with placing the card in exile. Since Flicker is moving the card to exile, it isn't being put &amp;quot;anywhere else.&amp;quot; (There is nothing for unearth to replace, since it is already going where unearth is trying to send the card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Unearthed&lt;/strong&gt; creature would remain on the battlefield as a new object, it will not be exiled by the delayed trigger setup by the original &amp;quot;Unearth.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, different spells would have different outcomes. (you need to clarify what you mean here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such difference would be a card that &lt;strong&gt;phases&lt;/strong&gt; a card out (example Tefari's Veil). The delayed trigger from Unearth will trigger at the beginning of the &lt;strong&gt;current turn's&lt;/strong&gt; end of turn step, and it will fail to remove the creature (since it doesn't exist). But, because the creature has never left the battlefield, the next time the creature would leave the battlefield, it will be exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.24b If a permanent phases out, its status changes to “phased out.” Except for rules and effects that specifically mention phased-out permanents, a phased-out permanent is treated as though it does not exist. It can’t affect or be affected by anything else in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.7b A delayed triggered ability will trigger only once—the next time its trigger event occurs unless it has a stated duration, such as “this turn.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T14:16:26.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6593" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:04:25.477" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;If it would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else.&quot; means that if the creature would leave the battlefield for some zone other than exile (because exile doesn't fit the condition of &quot;anywhere else&quot;), it's exiled instead. Therefore unearth replacement effect doesn't apply here. Obviously flicker won't lose track of the creature and will return it to the battlefield just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if the unearth replacement effect could apply, the creature would still return. Replacement effects modify other actions, they don't do anything by themselves. It's still flicker who is exiling the card even if we could apply unearth replacement effect, &lt;strike&gt;therefore it can track the card because of rule 400.7g&lt;/strike&gt;. Rule 400.7g doesn't actually apply here, because it refers to cards that changed zones while the card/ability was being played/activated. Flicker finds the card because it doesn't need to know that it was the same card that was on the battlefield. It just knows that there is a card in exile that is going to be put on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'll edit this and quote the rule to support that replacement effects don't do anything by themselves when I get home, right now I can't access the rules (I couldn't find a rule talking specifically about this, but there is an official ruling &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/24054109/When_did_this_change&amp;amp;post_num=53#449099705&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that talks about the same thing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="6542" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T13:39:14.037" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T13:39:14.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6597" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:47:39.213" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T15:47:39.213" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T15:47:39.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6598" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-15T15:47:39.213" Score="0" Body="The state of being unable to make a move, because of the difficultly in trying to determine the best move." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T15:48:22.873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T15:48:22.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6593" CreationDate="2012-02-15T16:37:07.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, Flicker will allow the creature to return to the battlefield, and it won't be exiled at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unearth sets up a replacement event: &amp;quot;If it would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Big Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, there is some ambiguity in the english here. Does the &amp;quot;anywhere else&amp;quot; refer to &amp;quot;anywhere other than the battlefield&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;anywhere other than the exile zone&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've thought about it, and I've come around to the other point of view. If it meant &amp;quot;anywhere other than the battlefield&amp;quot; then &amp;quot;exile it instead&amp;quot; would have sufficed. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/18837522/Shards_of_Alara_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shards of Alara FAQ&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/magicsages/wiki/Keyword:Unearth&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards Community Wiki&lt;/a&gt; makes the point that exile effects still happen, even to a creature &amp;quot;unearthed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since my conclusion is the same, but the path taken, different, I shall revise this answer accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oracle text for Flicker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exile target nontoken permanent, then return it to the battlefield under its owner's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &amp;quot;Exile&amp;quot; means the creature will leave the battlefield. Because of the above interpretation of the Unearth keyword's rules text, this event will go on unmodified, as the exile zone is where the creature was heading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7.&lt;/strong&gt; An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7g&lt;/strong&gt; A resolving spell or activated ability can perform actions on an object that moved from one zone to another while that spell was being cast or that ability was being activated, if that object moved to a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Exile zone is public, the second part of the resolving Flicker spell still happens due to 400.7g. It hasn't &amp;quot;forgotten&amp;quot; that the creature in the exile zone is the same one that was on the battlefield. The creature returns to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no exception to 400.7 for Unearth, it lost track of the creature when it was exiled. Therefore, it will not be exiled at the beginning of the next end step. Flicker has allowed it to live on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T22:07:38.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6603" CreationDate="2012-02-15T17:23:23.153" Score="2" ViewCount="3008" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Burning Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment that states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell from your graveyard, Burning Vengeance deals&#xA;2 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Flashback keyword will activate Burning Vengeance, but the Oracle text on Gatherer leads me to believe that there are other ways to trigger its ability.  What other mechanics exist &lt;strong&gt;in Modern&lt;/strong&gt; that will trigger Burning Vengeance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:15:14.297" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:15:14.297" Title="What mechanics exist that trigger Burning Vengeance?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="365" CreationDate="2012-02-15T17:41:53.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doomsday + Laboratory Maniac + draw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get the Manic on the field, play doomsday, then draw yourself to a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T17:41:53.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2012-02-15T17:50:42.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5Bretrace%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retrace&lt;/a&gt; is another keyword that would activate Burning Vengeance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4y9wj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cenn&amp;#39;s Enlistment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74431&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Toshiro&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QOJsx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Toshiro Umezawa&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps the perfect match with Burning Vengeance is unsurprisingly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=195402&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chandra&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uCY9w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chandra Ablaze&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards I found: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222902&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236468&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Karador, Ghost Chieftain&#xA;&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83648&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sins of the Past&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230780&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skaab Ruinator&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175401&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Worldheart Phoenix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23054&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yawgmouth's Agenda&lt;/a&gt; should work as well, although unlike most other cards, in the Oracle text &quot;play&quot; wasn't replaced with &quot;cast&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T18:09:29.403" LastActivityDate="2012-02-15T18:09:29.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6600" CreationDate="2012-02-15T17:51:12.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-flashback options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Standard/Modern) Creatures you can cast from the graveyard, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222902&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262852&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Havengul Lich&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Modern) Retrace cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=153487&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raven's Crime&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=151135&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Worm Harvest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=153432&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flame Jab&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Modern) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=122045&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haakon, Stromgald Scourge&lt;/a&gt;, especially played with Tribal cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=143388&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nameless Inversion&lt;/a&gt; -- &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/898&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;this is a &quot;real&quot; Modern deck&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, although not &quot;tier 1&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Modern) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74431&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toshiro Umezawa&lt;/a&gt;, although really that's flashback by another name.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Modern) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=195402&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chandra Ablaze&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I feel like it plays best in a &quot;Jund&quot;-style deck (basically a huge pile of two-for-ones, building up card advantage incrementally while pressuring the opponent to keep tempo). In particular, I could see using Burning Vengeance in place of Seismic Assault in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aggro Loam&lt;/a&gt; variant that doesn't mind losing a little bit of speed for card advantage -- pitching a land to Raven's Crime and getting your Burning Vengeance trigger only cost {B} more than pitching it to Seismic Assault, but you get to force your opponent to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like trying to combo out in one turn with Burning Vengeance because I feel like it's weaker than &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pyromancer's Swath&lt;/a&gt; in that kind of deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T14:11:45.010" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T14:11:45.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6608" CreationDate="2012-02-15T20:27:43.430" Score="4" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Defenders of the Realm, do taint tokens have any effect beyond ending the game if you get too many?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2508" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-15T21:44:37.400" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T16:16:54.990" Title="What are the effects of &quot;Taint&quot; tokens in Defenders of the Realm?" Tags="|defenders-of-the-realm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6215" CreationDate="2012-02-16T13:23:32.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play &lt;strong&gt;Terror&lt;/strong&gt; before or after summoning Troglodytes, or at any other point during the Threat Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Threat Phase&lt;/strong&gt; is broken up into two steps. Event Cards that can be played &quot;during the Threat Phase,&quot; can be played before or after either step (but not in-between rolling dice and resolving their effects). Drawing Event Cards is an effect of resolving &lt;strong&gt;Dark Destiny&lt;/strong&gt;. The Demon Player's Action Phase is when Trogs and Demons move and attack, it follows the Threat Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roll Dice of Destiny&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Roll 3d6 usually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Place Dice on Destiny Squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Immediately resolve effects of Destiny Squares.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place Troglodytes and Demons&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.claustrophobia-theboardgame.com/fr/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/CLAUSTRO_RULEBOOK_US_LR_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Threat Phase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During this phase, the Demon player will bring the Demons and Troglodytes into play, improve their abilities and draw Event cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Demon Player's Action Phase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During this phase, the Demon player’s Troglodytes and Demons will move and fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Event Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Dark Destiny result of the Board of Destiny allows the Demon player to draw an Event card. This card can be kept in his hand or &lt;strong&gt;used at the time indicated&lt;/strong&gt; in its description (and must then be discarded).The Demon player can keep as many Event cards in his hand as he wishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T13:23:32.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6059" CreationDate="2012-02-16T14:50:31.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of a couple of situations where assisting another player without being able to rally might be beneficial to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If not doing so will most likely lose you the game&lt;/strong&gt; - If an opponent has the summoning stone, and is rolling many more dice than another player, it may be useful to help that player damage the summoner. You will most likely be wounding your opponents, with no possibility of hurting yourself. If you cannot do enough damage by yourself or others to kill the summoner, then you will have no chance of winning the game without getting the bonus dice from assisting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If another player is out of Actions and a Monster has a treasure&lt;/strong&gt; - The monster will drop the treasure, and you will be able to pick it up during your turn (thanks to the other player).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T14:50:31.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5944" CreationDate="2012-02-16T15:22:13.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by playing your Bunker scar, the Bunker will be located in a nice defensive position or choke point (i.e. Central America, Brazil, Southeast Asia), you open up the possibility that the winner of the first game might place a Major City reward on top of your Bunker. This will give them a pretty major advantage in the early games, because unless someone places their HQ first (and adjacent) to the Major City that player will get to start there and their HQ will get the +1 defensive bonus. Additionally, if the opponent doesn't start there, you or another player will have to sacrifice troops to move into (or to the other side of) the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Bunker will be located on a less high value territory (Middle of Asia, Europe, or North America), then it wouldn't be as helpful to an opponent who wins before you. It will make those continents more valuable (which is probably a good thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this answer change with different numbers of players or scars that have been played?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference between the number of players, and the scars that have already been played is whether you will get a new scar next game. There are 6 starting scars, so if by playing the Bunker you will make it so that there will not be enough scars to pass out the next game, you might want to hold off on using it. This is especially true if the majority of scars played so far have been Ammo Shortages. You will have a a better chance to win next turn, and if their are more Bunkers than Ammo Shortage scars, you have a higher probability of getting a Bunker and being able to place it in a good location if you expect to win for your own Major City.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T15:22:13.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6604" CreationDate="2012-02-16T16:09:33.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they also serve to mark that &lt;strong&gt;location&lt;/strong&gt; as tainted. This is important for the action Heal the Land, or for Inns (which cannot be tainted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heal the Land: If the hero is on a tainted location, discard a Hero Card that matches the location color and roll 2 dice. If a 5 or more is rolled on either die, the hero removes 1 Tainted Crystal from that location. Only 1 Tainted Crystal may be removed per action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inns may not be overrun or tainted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T16:16:54.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6615" CreationDate="2012-02-16T16:39:35.063" Score="9" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is well-known that learning about Go is a never-ending process. This question is on resources that I believe to be useful in a certain stage of this learning process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the very beginning, there are a lot of fundamentals to be grasped (and really understanding them fully takes way longer of course) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31/what-do-you-recommend-to-learn-go&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; addressed resources that may be helpful for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am now advancing into the SDK stage and find that these resources are not helping so much anymore. On the other hand, I also have trouble profiting from the analysis of pro games, because I still have a lot to learn about the reasoning behind moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found to be most effective for me at this stage, are resources like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL05D44E6870BF7154&amp;amp;feature=plcp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these youtube videos&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gobase.org/studying/articles/matthews/fuseki/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these articles on opening patterns&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a place, where learning resources are available that are similar to the above?&#xA;To make this question a bit more concrete and answerable, I am looking for material that fits the following criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitable for SDKs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a simple listing of fuseki/joseki/whatever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; life&amp;amp;death problems&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;focuses&lt;/em&gt; on the reasoning behind moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;suitable for broadening one's knowledge (i.e. do not cover one topic in immense depth, but concentrate on the underlying principles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bonus points, if grouped by topic (so you can f.ex. quickly get material related to micro-chinese, or leaning plays, or large knight jumps, or counting, ...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of textual resources (though I'm open for videos/podcasts/sgfs/...), I am looking for roughly something along the line of one-two pages per discussed topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few resources that I know about, but do not fit these criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sensei&lt;/a&gt;: Way too deep coverage of topics. I believe it is an awesome reference for dans and higher SDKs, but I mostly found it more confusing than helpful. Not to mention, that every second word links to more information.. there is the point of TMI.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eidogo&lt;/a&gt;: Great for looking up names of josekis.. which I would then like to read up upon in the resources I am looking for in order to understand the underlying principles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various pages of L&amp;amp;D problems: while interesting and certainly helpful to learn, they do not help much in terms of opening and mid-game strategies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;various books (at least those I have) : they either are for beginners, or they cover a topic very well, but in frustrating depth (meaning you'd have to invest into an extra library room if you want to get a broader picture).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2104" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T23:29:28.977" Title="Online Resources for Go Tutorials on specific topics" Tags="|go|teaching|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2012-02-16T17:28:50.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you transition into SDK, you're getting to the place where the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/4906574122&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tesuji&lt;/a&gt; will be comprehensible, and I think you'll find it very useful. It's an excellent book. Quoting from one of the Amazon reviews&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first chapter is devoted to reading, then continues into the&#xA;  tesuji. Each chapter's theme is accomplishing a certain objective, and&#xA;  provides a few tesuji that are used to accomplish it. At the end of&#xA;  each section on a tesuji, the reader is given a problem or two to try&#xA;  it himself, and at the end of each chapter, around 10-12 problems,&#xA;  using all of the tesuji. The difficulty of the problems vary, but are&#xA;  never frustratingly hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also recommend continuing to look at problems. The vast majority of problems are life &amp;amp; death, but you can also find fuseki problems &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?FusekiExercisesForBeginners&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;such as these&lt;/a&gt;, and I know I've seen an app (maybe GoGrinder?) that let you sort problems by type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a gateway to analysis of pro games, the book &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/4906574017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Invincible&lt;/a&gt; is expensive but well worth it. The commentary is very interesting, and by choosing how much you read and how many of the variations you follow can be of adjustable depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KGS+ also has frequent audio lectures that target SDKs. Also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gtl.xmp.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go Teaching Ladder&lt;/a&gt; is a way to get game reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, play! Want to learn about the mini Chinese? Use it exclusively for a week.  Play even games against stronger players, and always go over them afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T17:28:50.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2012-02-16T17:52:56.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Daily Yomiuri had a weekly column called &quot;The Magic of Go&quot;. The column only ran until 2007, but archives can still be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yomiuri.co.jp/dy/columns/0001/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bresler.org/Go/YomiuriDaily/igo_e/igomenu.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The articles themselves are brief and cover a range of topics from week to week.  They often involve analyzing short segments of pro games, then detailing a fundamental theory behind the plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately they are not organized by topic, which can make finding a particular article difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T17:52:56.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:18:30.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://eurogotv.com/index.php?menu=Video&amp;amp;log=trefwoordzoeken&amp;amp;trefwoord1=123Go&amp;amp;PHPSESSID=rtpoi2ggipaakgbivri9sp0qq6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; videos by Catalin Taranu to be very helpful when I was around that level.  Pros always make defensive moves that look a little slow to me, and in these he shows over and over what happens if they leave those moves out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T19:18:30.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:20:26.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?path=GetStrongAtGoSeries&amp;amp;page=GetStrongAtTesuji&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Get Strong at Tesuji&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent way to get stronger for anyone up to dan level.  It has problems in a range of difficulties, and even the harder problems are usually localized enough that you can work out the variations if you can't just read them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T19:20:26.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6609" CreationDate="2012-02-16T19:25:18.243" Score="12" Body="&lt;h1&gt;How to study Go wrongly, a practical reference&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though you already directly pointed in the right direction, let me disregard part of your actual question and answer differently first. Consider it a supplementary answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A common mistake in studying&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there is a typical trap many Western players easily fall into (I'm guilty of this myself): Relying on books too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around 10 kyu, studying books should take only a small part of your time. Instead, focus on playing games and reviewing. I'll try to explain my reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why you should not study pro games&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I also have trouble profiting from the analysis of pro games, because&#xA;  I still have a lot to learn about the reasoning behind moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, studying pro games at your level is of lower efficiency since you simply won't be able to understand the moves. This applies to dan players, too, but they possess enough shape and (midgame and corner) joseki knowledge to grasp the basic ideas. So apart from seeing what a game should look like and potentially learning a few common shapes, you won't gain much from pro games. It's just not suited to your level yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a student of a foreign language, you will eventually read lots of texts in that language and learn a lot from first hand resources, but before that you have to learn the basics in your native language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why you should not study fuseki (yet)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What I found to be most effective for me at this stage, are resources like these &#xA;  youtube videos or these articles on opening patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Josh's videos are just as excellent as Matthew's lectures, but again, you won't gain much from studying fuseki. While I most certainly agree that it's &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt;, I can't say for sure that it will benefit your games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to both &lt;em&gt;remember&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;understand&lt;/em&gt; the fuseki shapes, which is not easy at all since every stone on the whole board is very important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you can remember the basic Kobayashi openings until around move 40? If you do and you are not high dan you were setting wrong priorities! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disregarding that, actually every stone is important and may change the meaning of moves considerably. For instance, you know the basic Chinese Fuseki, right? Consider this board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . 4 . . . . . , . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . 2 , . . . . . , . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you know some pros call 5 a mistake due to the position of 2 at komoku (3-4) instead of hoshi (4-4)? White could make a corner enclosure and the main direction of the Chinese opening, the lower side, will be a lot less interesting all of sudden. Subtle differences like this are very important if you really want to benefit from fuseki study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while you definitely will gain some insight from intense study of fuseki, this activity becomes way more efficient at strong SDK to lower dan level. By the way, I recently read how insei nowadays don't study fuseki as much as they used to but instead focus on tsumego - the improved reading helps more than a few moves more depth of knowledge in fuseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why having superior fuseki is useless&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another point to consider is your reading ability. Personally, I grew up with fuseki study and was able to easily solve strong SDK level fuseki problems as a DDK. But in my games, the opponent simply played a move I did not know and I had no clue how to continue - I was completely unable to read how to punish, and ended up losing even though I was supposed to be ahead. That eventually made me study fighting more, and that in turn massively increased my understanding of the fuseki positions I played earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And still, there are actually high dans who have a far worse position during fuseki in even games with me, but their insane reading power makes more than up for it and I always lose even with very high handicap. There is a saying that you should not start to study fuseki until there is nobody who can beat you at 9 stones, and it should be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why you should not memorize patterns&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Memorize joseki, lose 3 stones.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By always playing known sequences, your will grew unable to see other moves. You won't notice subtle differences compared to the position you know, and miss sharp moves that a player with better fighting senses will spot immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that I am not only talking about actually &quot;memorizing certain sequences&quot; but also &quot;blindly only considering known sequences and shapes instead of actually reading each move&quot;. This is exhausting but hey, noone said improving in Go is easy ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't know the sequence to play, you have to consider all options, forcing you to read carefully. Eventually, you'll decide on a move, and your understanding of the position has been increased so next time you'll be able to decide on the right move faster - depending on the surrounding position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you will have a deeper knowledge of the position and the moves involved, and you will be able to explain &lt;em&gt;with actual sequences&lt;/em&gt; why your chosen move is the best. Or why it was a mistake, which is fine, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why playing games and doing reviews is important&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We just noticed that you should try to play lots of games to learn patterns by understanding the moves. If your understanding of the position is flawed, this could lead to &lt;em&gt;mistaking&lt;/em&gt; good and bad results. This is why you should have someone stronger review your games to point out wrong decisions that you did not consider as such. Gaining this knowledge will in turn &lt;em&gt;directly affect all your decisions in similar positions&lt;/em&gt; - practical reasoning behind high level ideas is one of the points that distinguishes strong from weak players with a shallow understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why this answer is wrong&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not. Not yet at least (for DDK players). Or not completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you closely follow the approach explained you'll eventually have excellent fighting abilities and win all the (local) fights but still lose the war (game). How is that possible? It's because you did it wrong to the other extreme: Not caring about theory at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By slowly applying more and more theoretical study as you grow stronger, you'll not only understand high level concepts (e.g. in fuseki), but also (thanks to your acquired raw abilities) be able to punish opponents for their overplays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The actual answer to your question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that being said, the original question already contains the important hints:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;not a simple listing of fuseki/joseki/whatever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;focuses on the reasoning behind moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact there are books that help with these, as mentioned in other answers, so I won't go into them here. Books about tesuji, hopefully with exercises, are likely the most useful kind you will find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with these books, you should keep the basics I was talking about earlier in mind. Many players capture stones out of habit because they know the &lt;em&gt;awesome&lt;/em&gt; tesuji to capture them, but they miss that all groups were already alive and the capture was only worth 2 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The fastest way to strong SDK level&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the mentioned kind of books, at weak SDK level, playing games and reviewing them is still the most valuable resource. Make as many mistakes as possible, remember them and never do them again, and you will be strong SDK in no time. Theoretical study could never have advanced you that quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also is a very simple but difficult to follow hint I can give to players who are willing to put in a lot of effort for quickly improving. It is to simply read 4 moves ahead on &lt;strong&gt;every&lt;/strong&gt; turn in the game. This requires more self-discipline than you may think at first, but it ensures you applied enough reading to a) not make stupid mistakes and b) consider all (or at least most) of the options the opponent has in answering. Which boils down to &quot;avoid sloppy reading&quot;. You should literally sit on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And once you find yourself puzzled about situations more often, unable to find the right direction even though you can see the sequences, it's time to switch to theory and study  aspects not easily visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-20T23:29:28.977" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T23:29:28.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5295" CreationDate="2012-02-16T22:43:02.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may also want to look at the following two books from Gambit Publications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gambitbooks.com/books/computers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Use Computers To Improve Your Chess&lt;/a&gt; by Christian Kongsted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second half is specifically on how to use chess computers to improve our play.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gambitbooks.com/books/practicalnew.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Secrets of Practical Chess&lt;/a&gt; by John Nunn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new edition has an expanded chapter on chess computers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can download PDF samples from their respective pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-02-16T22:43:02.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6618" CreationDate="2012-02-17T02:31:17.977" Score="12" ViewCount="4450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a level 7 Cleric who won my fight, drew a level up card, then played the Wand of Dowsing to take a previously discarded Divine Intervention for the win. Being such a cheap way to hit level ten, a debate ensued as to whether or not &lt;code&gt;go through the discards to find any one card you want&lt;/code&gt; means door cards as well as treasure cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solid argument against my play was that dowsing wands are used to find underground wells, but also gold coins or other treasure (in real life, that is). It seems that, being a trasure card, it could be interpreted this way. I couldn't find anything about this card's specifics in the forums...does anyone know if my play was a legal one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T19:28:44.700" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T19:28:44.700" Title="Can the Wand of Dowsing Draw from Door Cards?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6617" CreationDate="2012-02-17T03:27:37.277" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showpost.php?s=73c60ff86eab98a939065f2f931dff97&amp;amp;p=1301707&amp;amp;postcount=7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andrew Hackard (post #7)&lt;/a&gt;, who appears to be a Steve Jackson representitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Originally Postedby Arctivlargl&lt;/strong&gt; 1) You are a lvl 7 Cleric, you have a Wand of Dowsing + Bungee Cord + some other card in your hand, Divine Intervention is in the discard pile. - Your turn starts and you use WoD to get DI - are forced to play it immediately - you go to level 8 - You use Bungee Cord to get WoD back - repeat - you go to level 9 - Instead of Kicking Open the Door you take DI from the discard pile and discard your other card - you go to level 10 win and can mock everyone mercilessly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;That seems likea legal play to me. It requires a very specific combination of cards, but if you can get it, congratulations.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T13:28:24.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6619" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-17T15:22:45.967" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T15:22:45.967" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T15:22:45.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6620" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-17T15:22:45.967" Score="0" Body="Strategies that draw on information found outside the current game. For games that include customized components, players draw on information about strategic trends, and tailor their custom (deck, army, etc.) to have an advantage when facing the majority strategy." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T15:54:35.860" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T15:54:35.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-17T17:07:59.957" Score="2" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm not that bad at sealed deck format (I usually end up in the first 5 places) I suck at draft. This is my first attempt to build a T2 deck.&#xA;I need help because I think the deck is too slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck Objective: Milling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24 lands (I don't have trouble with lands)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-creature spells:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sever%20the%20Bloodline&quot;&gt;Sever the Bloodline&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grindclock&quot;&gt;Grindclock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Confusion&quot;&gt;Increasing Confusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; (this was listed twice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20Ranks%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Go%20for%20the%20Throat&quot;&gt;Go for the Throat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creatures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindshrieker&quot;&gt;Mindshrieker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Havengul%20Runebinder&quot;&gt;Havengul Runebinder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undead%20Alchemist&quot;&gt;Undead Alchemist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diregraf%20Captain&quot;&gt;Diregraf Captain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262839&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geralf's Mindcrushers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gravecrawler&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Havengul%20Lich&quot;&gt;Havengul Lich&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evil%20Twin&quot;&gt;Evil Twin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghoulraiser&quot;&gt;Ghoulraiser&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cemetery%20Reaper&quot;&gt;Cemetery Reaper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about taking out the Gravecrawler and the Havengul Runebinder,&#xA;the Gravecrawler because it can't block and the Havengul Runebinder because it won't work until my turn 5, and I can't block with it that turn because it might be die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the Evil Twin because it's a destruction but it can't block the turn it enters the game, I mean it can but if it dies it won't be of a lot of help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Captain is pretty good because it has dead touch. Maybe the spell that gives him undying until end of turn, but I don't know what to take out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My idea is to gent alive to my (4-5) use the Undead Alchemist (but I won't use it to block) and use Increasing Confusion next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's a good combo, and since Undead Alchemist is a zombie and I think Geralf's Mindcrusher is a good card (although I might be wrong) because if he dies that's a total of 10 milled cards, that's also a zombie, I thought the black cards will support and help me to stay alive until I start milling, especially with so many destructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I need other black cards or another color (not excluding the mono blue possibility)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2520" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:12:52.030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:12:52.030" Title="How do I make this zombie mill deck faster?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6623" CreationDate="2012-02-17T19:11:11.257" Score="6" ViewCount="2049" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I got into Magic and get together to play a few games once a week. Each of us has ~110 cards, the bulk of them being a Magic 2012 intro pack, the rest boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We thought we'd mix things up a bit with booster draft or sealed deck, but since our budgets are way too limited to make a cube or buy boosters every week, I thought we could improvise. The current entirely theoretical setup is to use a simulation website for those formats every time we play, then using a home-written program assign a number to each card that is chosen for a deck. The tokens representing the cards chosen with the draft simulator could be simple sheets with numbers 1 through 100 written to them (or as many as needed), inserted into card sleeves with a colored back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to approach this, in particular the token creation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2057" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T11:46:15.370" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T11:46:15.370" Title="MtG: making makeshift cards for home play" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|sealed-deck|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6622" CreationDate="2012-02-17T22:39:21.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sensible method is to get hold of some commons - I know &quot;your budgets are limited&quot;, but if there's a game store that does drafting near you, quite often people just leave their commons lying around on the tables for anyone who wants them, they're that desperate to get rid of them; and even if not, there are other ways to buy them in bulk for cheap - put stickers over the text box, and use cards with like casting costs as proxies.  So if you want to represent e.g. a Primeval Titan (casting cost 4GG) you would use a Craw Wurm or Yavimaya Wurm instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it seems like you'll end up doing WAY too much cross-referencing - what was a #73 again?  The casting cost should be a useful cue for remembering which card you have in your hand, and you can write any extra information you need on the sticker of course...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T22:39:21.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6622" CreationDate="2012-02-17T23:16:50.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicprinter.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magicprinter.net&lt;/a&gt; should solve your problem. They are running code that is found &lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/mtg-proxy-printer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, in case you'd rather just run it on your own computer. Print off what you need and put it in front of land / commons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2491" LastEditorUserId="2491" LastEditDate="2012-02-17T23:22:08.613" LastActivityDate="2012-02-17T23:22:08.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6621" CreationDate="2012-02-17T23:31:13.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in your assessment that this deck is too slow. You should select one direction and go with it - either Zombie or Mill - rather than trying to do both. I recommend removing the Mill strategy, as it is likely to slow for the format, given the current metagame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you look at sites such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgtop8.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mtgtop8.com&lt;/a&gt; for reference when building decks. There you will see decks with good winning records played by the top players, and be able to use those as a basis for your deck.  For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgtop8.com/event?e=2518&amp;amp;d=216377&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this deck&lt;/a&gt; finished in the top 32 at the recent Pro Tour in Hawaii.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for specific feedback on your deck, Standard is a fairly creature heavy, aggressive format. You are playing expensive removal (Sever the Bloodline) in favor of cheap (Tragic Slip, Go for the Throat (play more of those!)). Black Sun's Zenith is probably bad for you, as many of your creatures are low toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examine the mana curve of your deck. You can do this pretty easily by using any of the deck building sites (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TappedOut&lt;/a&gt;), or by arranging your cards by casting cost. In this deck, you have very few cards that you can cast for one or two mana, and as a result you'll lag behind those decks which can play something on turns one and two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2491" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T21:35:22.800" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:35:22.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6640" CreationDate="2012-02-17T23:43:12.410" Score="9" ViewCount="2773" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been legacy decks in the past that were able to win a game in the first round, without even giving your opponent a chance to act. I wonder how many rounds minimum it would take to win a game in the Innistrad block format. In this format there are only cards allowed from Innistrad, Dark Ascension and Avacyn Restored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assumptions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent is totally passive and does not play more than a single land each turn until he loses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start with the perfect hand and each card you draw is the perfect card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The deck must be legal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please show the winning sequence with your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-11T16:00:12.557" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T16:00:12.557" Title="How fast can you win against a passive opponent in the Innistrad block format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|puzzles|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T00:25:09.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's get the ball rolling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262872&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creature (G) 1/1, Undying.&quot;&gt;Young Wolf&lt;/a&gt;. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creature (R) 1/1 Werewolf; flips to 3/2.&quot;&gt;Reckless Waif&lt;/a&gt; would also work here.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack with Wolf for 1 (19). Mountain, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235603&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sorcery (R, sacrifice a creature) Add RRR to your mana pool.&quot;&gt;Infernal Plunge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249419&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creature (1RR) 1/1, Double Strike. Whenever Markov Blademaster deals combat damage to a player, put a +1/+1 counter on it.&quot;&gt;Markov Blademaster&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243257&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Instant (G) Put a +1/+1 counter on target creature. Morbid — Put 3 +1/+1 counters on that creature instead if a creature died this turn.&quot;&gt;Hunger of the Howlpack&lt;/a&gt; on the Blademaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234431&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Aura (R) Enchanted creature gets +2/+2 and attacks each turn if able.&quot;&gt;Furor of the Bitten&lt;/a&gt; on the Blademaster. Attack with Blademaster for 6 (13) and 7 (6) and Wolf for 2 (4). Mountain, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Instant (1R, sacrifice a creature) Fling deals damage equal to the sacrificed creature's power to target creature or player.&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt; the Blademaster for 8 (-4).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wins on turn 3 on the play, leaving you with no cards in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T01:52:26.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6622" CreationDate="2012-02-18T01:29:14.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What it sounds like you're proposing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Google up a card list for the set you want to &quot;draft&quot; from.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll a random booster pack worth of cards.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write a proxy version of each card rolled on a scrap of paper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert that scrap in a sleeve with a magic card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then draft and play with those proxies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a plan. The only trick I see is rolling up the decks. The easiest approach I see to that just takes some percentile dice and persistence, as you re-roll cards that have the wrong rarity. That is, if you're rolling for an 8 card booster pack with 2 uncommons and 6 commons, after 4 rolls you might have 2 uncommons and 2 commons. From then on, you'd ignore &amp;amp; re-roll any uncommon cards you rolled until you filled the remaining 4 common slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted the draft to be 100% accurate, you'd need to simulate the sub-rarities in Magic. That is: If there are 100 rare cards in a set, and 121 cards on the printed sheet of rares before its cut, some of the rares will be double printed. (Likely 21 of them.) They take up the rare slot in a deck the same as any other rare, but show up twice as often. For this You'd need a list that had two entries for each of these &quot;R2&quot; cards that are double printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you were simulating Beta Set Magic, you might have a spreadsheet of rares that started like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mox Pearl&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mox Sapphire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Trivia: Two islands were on the rare sheet in alpha and beta. Rares were supposed to be so rare that some boosters might have none! WotC also thought that the decks would be shuffled prior to packing, so the players wouldn't know which cards were rare when they opened the pack. So you wouldn't know that you'd gotten an island in your rare slot and feel gypped. It would only be after seeing hundreds of packs opened that you'd be able to deduce which cards were the rares, which were the uncommons, and which where the commons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2494" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T01:29:14.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6629" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-18T04:23:56.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players:&lt;/strong&gt; 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Object:&lt;/strong&gt; To score more points than your opponent by capturing your opponents dice, and preventing your own dice from being captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each captured opponents dice scores its number of sides in points. (i.e. A standard die, or d6 is worth 6 points).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each of your own dice you kept scores half its number of sides in points. (i.e. A d20 is worth 10 points).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Highest Score wins the round. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If any round is a draw, immediately replay it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First player to win 3 rounds winds the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beatpeopleup.com/start.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Site&lt;/a&gt;: Buy real buttons to wear to conventions, Rules, the iPhone game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cheapass.com/sites/default/files/BMenRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Rules&lt;/a&gt;: The Basic Rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.buttonmen.dhs.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Online Play&lt;/a&gt;: Features asynchronous multi-player, and keeps in-depth stats on matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beatpeopleup.com/start.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Fan Page&lt;/a&gt; : Many good strategy articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T19:02:41.797" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T19:02:41.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6630" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-18T04:23:56.143" Score="0" Body="Button Men (1999) is an abstract game designed by James Earnest. Players choose characters, whose speed, strength, and dice type are represented by polyhedral dice. Players roll dice and take turns trying to capture all their opponent's dice." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T04:51:48.677" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T04:51:48.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T05:26:44.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn 1) Island, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226749&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delver of Secrets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 2) Reveal &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243213&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dream Twist&lt;/a&gt; (Transform &lt;strong&gt;Delver of Secrets&lt;/strong&gt; into &lt;strong&gt;Insectile Aberration&lt;/strong&gt;), Forest, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wreath of Geists&lt;/a&gt; enchanting &lt;strong&gt;Insectile Aberration&lt;/strong&gt;, Dream Twist (targeting self, milling 3 creatures). Attack with enchanted Insectile Aberration for 3+3=6 (13).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn 3) Forest, Wreath of Geists, Wreath of Geists, Dream Twist (targeting self, milling 3 more creatures), Attack for 6+6+6+3=21 (-8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No cards in hand (total cards used 9) or remove &lt;strong&gt;Wreath of Geists, Dream Twist&lt;/strong&gt; flashback the Dream Twist** instead of using a second copy in Turn 3) for 2 cards in hand, 6+6+3=15 (-2) life for opponent, and a more efficient less overkilly win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T05:34:14.687" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T05:34:14.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6632" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-18T06:01:31.397" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T06:01:31.397" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T06:01:31.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6633" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-18T06:01:31.397" Score="0" Body="Questions that present some scenario, and asks you to provide a solution that satisfies some requirement (example &quot;Win within X turns&quot;, or &quot;9 Queens without check/checkmate&quot;, or &quot;MTG, deal X damage this turn&quot;) " OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-18T19:02:52.687" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T19:02:52.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T06:14:37.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how to do it with Mindshrieker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creature (G) 1/1. T: Add W to your mana pool.&quot;&gt;Avacyn's Pilgrim&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=229960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creature (1U) 1/1, Flying. 2: Target player puts the top card of his or her library into his or her graveyard. Mindshrieker gets +X/+X until end of turn, where X is that card's converted mana cost.&quot;&gt;Mindshrieker&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=235603&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sorcery (R, sacrifice a creature) Add RRR to your mana pool.&quot;&gt;Infernal Plunge&lt;/a&gt;. Activate Mindshrieker three times on yourself, milling three &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222206&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sorcery (8R) Blasphemous Act costs 1 less to cast for each creature on the battlefield. Blasphemous Act deals 13 damage to each creature.&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt;s for +27/+27. Attack with Mindshrieker for 28 (-8).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This uses only six cards, and even wastes a mana on turn 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a variant that doesn't use any red cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest, Avacyn's Pilgrim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island, Mindshrieker, Avacyn's Pilgrim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Mindshrieker twice, milling two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262662&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Creature (7G) 10/10. Ghoultree costs 1 less to cast for each creature card in your graveyard.&quot;&gt;Ghoultree&lt;/a&gt;s for +16/+16. Attack with Mindshrieker for 17 (3). Swamp, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Sorcery (B) Target opponent loses 3 life. Flashback 5R.&quot;&gt;Bump in the Night&lt;/a&gt; for 3 (0).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This uses seven cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T06:34:49.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T06:57:01.110" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about an alternate win condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243212&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Creature (G) 1/1. T: Add W to your mana pool.&quot;&gt;Avacyn's Pilgrim&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island, Avacyn's Pilgrim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227297&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Creature (3UU) 5/1, Flying. 1U: Mirror-Mad Phantasm's owner shuffles it into his or her library. If that player does, he or she reveals cards from the top of that library until a card named Mirror-Mad Phantasm is revealed. The player puts that card onto the battlefield and all other cards revealed this way into his or her graveyard.&quot;&gt;Mirror-Mad Phantasm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Mirror-Mad Phantasm, conveniently milling your entire library. Island, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Creature (2U) 2/2. If you would draw a card while your library has no cards in it, you win the game instead.&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262838&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Instant (U) Target player puts the top two cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard. Draw a card.&quot;&gt;Thought Scour&lt;/a&gt;. You try to draw from your empty library, and win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245195&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Instant (1UU) Put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of target creature you control. Flashback 5UU.&quot;&gt;Cackling Counterpart&lt;/a&gt; to copy the Phantasm, which guarantees that it will always empty your library, but doing so requires an extra turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T06:57:01.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T13:22:13.577" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 Mountain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Mountain, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233058&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Immolating Souleater&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 Pay 18 life to pump up Souleater to a 10/1. Attack for 10. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt; Souleater for another 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This uses 4 cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2523" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T13:22:13.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4295" CreationDate="2012-02-18T15:43:21.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can and it is often a good stategic move if you can create and control a housing shortage.  &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;For example: &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;You buy the remaining houses for your light blue color group. &lt;br/&gt; Once you have available funds you would prefer to sell these houses (or buy up to Hotel if possible) &lt;br/&gt;and immediately buy the available houses for your dark blue group.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;But if others also wish to buy houses at this point, there is the following rule:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;[in a building shortage] players wish to buy more than the Bank has, &lt;br/&gt;the buildings must be sold at auction to the highest bidder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T15:43:21.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2012-02-18T16:05:37.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard rules are open enough to make a 3rd party trade allowable.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;In googling around I find there are tourneyment rules that both explictly allow and others that specificaly restrict this behavior.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I saw a printed copy of offical world tourneyment rules where this was specifically allowed, but these rules seem to no longer be available on-line.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopolytourney.com/rules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MonopolyTourney.com site&lt;/a&gt; explicitly bars &quot;side deals when a person is going bankrupt.  The person may only be in transaction with the player who is bankrupting them.&quot;.The second part of this rule seems silly to me, as the player who is due rent has little stategic insentive to make a deal other than bankrupcy.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;MonopolyTourney rules also include the Free Parking rule, which is popular but ruins strategic play, IMHO.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I would highly recommend allowing this behavior in a group that includes more stategic players.  &lt;br/&gt;It reduces the chances of a &quot;lucky&quot; bankruptcy from turning the tide in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="299" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T15:17:56.760" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T15:17:56.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T17:18:44.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest, Avacyn's Pilgrim.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forest, Strangleroot Geist, swing for 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain, Infernal Plunge the Pilgrim, then using the mana generated cast a 2nd Infernal Plunge on the Geist, Now with 5 Mana, cast Trepanation Blade and equip to the returned undying Geist, Swing with Geist. Enemy player reveals 14 non land cards, so you deal 17 damage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2525" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T17:18:44.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T17:43:16.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A solution for turn 2 on the draw. I can't seem to hit turn 2 on the play, but I -think- it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This looks kinda ugly, so here's a link to a picture: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aw30D.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aw30D.png&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;                                                                           Mana Pool           Cards in Hand&#xA;Turn one                                                                    0                   8&#xA;Plains                                                                      W                   7&#xA;Doomed Traveler                                                             0                   6&#xA;&#xA;Turn two                                                                    W                   7&#xA;Mountain                                                                    WR                  6&#xA;Infernal Plunge, sacrificing Doomed Traveler                                WRRR                5&#xA;Infernal Plunge, sacrificing Spirit, hold priority                          WRR                 4&#xA;Increasing Vengeance, targeting Infernal Plunge                             WRRR                3&#xA;Increasing Vengeance, targeting Infernal Plunge                             WRRRR               2&#xA;Increasing Vengeance, targeting Infernal Plunge                             WRRRRR              1&#xA;Resolve Infernal Plunge                                                     WRRRRRRRR           1&#xA;Desperate Ravings, discarding Past in Flames                                WRRRRRR             1&#xA;Doomed Traveler                                                             RRRRRR              0&#xA;Flashback Past in Flames                                                    R                   0&#xA;Flashback Infernal Plunge, sacrificing Doomed Traveler                      RRR                 0&#xA;Flashback Infernal Plunge, sacrificing Spirit, hold priority                RR                  0&#xA;Flashback Increasing Vengeance, targeting Infernal Plunge                   RRRRRR              0&#xA;Flashback Increasing Vengeance, targeting Infernal Plunge                   RRRRRRRRRR          0&#xA;Resolve Infernal Plunge                                                     RRRRRRRRRRRRR       0&#xA;Flashback Desperate Ravings, discarding any card                            RRRRRRRRRRR         1&#xA;Devil's Play for X=8, hold priority                                         RR                  0&#xA;Flashback Increasing Vengeance, targeting Devil's Play, dealing 16 damage   0                   0&#xA;Resolve Devil's Play, dealing 8 damage                                      0                   0&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2526" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T17:43:16.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6626" CreationDate="2012-02-18T21:24:47.363" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain, Memnite, Infernal plunge, Immolating Souleater.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountain, Pay 18 life to pump Souleater to a 10/1, Swing for 10, Fling Souleater for 10 damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2527" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T21:24:47.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5022" CreationDate="2012-02-18T23:07:51.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you might mean &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/allfours/don.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nine Card Don&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2012-02-18T23:07:51.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6656" CreationDate="2012-02-19T00:04:15.037" Score="4" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Button Men is played until one player wins 3 rounds. For the first round, Swing Dice selection is done in secret. On following rounds, only the player that lost the round is allowed to change it's value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changeling: dX, dX, dX, dX, dX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Iago: d20, d20, d20,dX&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swing Dice (dX): Values for X may be any number between 4 to 20 inclusive, including nonregular dice like 13 or 7 sided dice. If a character has multiple dX dice, the value of X must be the same for all dX dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an optimal swing die value for Changeling, and if so what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:06:09.270" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T18:06:09.270" Title="Is there an optimal swing die value for Changeling VS Iago?" Tags="|button-men|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2012-02-19T04:07:20.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 things to make the game a bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) once a cure is found any player can cure a city of all diseases for only 1 action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) shuffle all the infection cards back into the deck when an Pandemic occurs (may be to big of a change)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2529" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T04:07:20.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6722" CreationDate="2012-02-19T06:09:33.857" Score="8" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Iago faces Changeling, and their results are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iago: 1, 1, 1, 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changeling: 1, 1, 1, 1, 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/freegames/buttonmen&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; say the following (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To Begin:&lt;/strong&gt; Roll all of your fighter’s dice, and arrange your dice so they can be easily read. Players will now take turns. Whoever rolled the &lt;strong&gt;single lowest number&lt;/strong&gt; will go first. If the lowest dice are tied, compare the next lowest dice, and so on until a starting player is determined. If all &lt;strong&gt;numbers&lt;/strong&gt; are tied, the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is unclear, is what happens when the characters have differing numbers of dice to compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is it a draw?&lt;/em&gt; Since you can't &lt;strong&gt;compare&lt;/strong&gt; a die number to a non-existent die.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does Iago go first?&lt;/em&gt; Since an empty die (null die) has a value of zero.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does Changeling go first?&lt;/em&gt; Since they are the only character with a next lowest die, and all numbers are not tied.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am leaning towards it being a draw, because you can't compare dice with a character that doesn't have a, &quot;next lowest die&quot; to compare. Has there been an official ruling in a FAQ, or in Tournament Rules? Maybe no one has ever had this happen and the question has never come up (it only happens 1 in 100+ million times)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T14:08:00.140" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T02:09:39.690" Title="If two fighter's dice all come up with the same numbers, but one character rolls fewer dice, who goes first?" Tags="|button-men|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6649" CreationDate="2012-02-19T09:06:46.620" Score="5" ViewCount="6165" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays the living weapon &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=lashwrithe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lashwrithe&lt;/a&gt;. Afterwards he spends 4 life to equip it to his &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=217984&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vault Skirge&lt;/a&gt;. While doing this, I kill his Vault Skirge with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=208251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Galvanic Blast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think will happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He loses 4 life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His Germ token under the living weapon dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His Vault Skirge dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His Lashwrithe lies around as equipment ready for the next try&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I smile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Does equipping use the stack to enable such a maneuver? And does the Germ token really die if equipping goes ill, or does the equipping never take place because it has no valid target and the Germ lives happily ever after?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Changed the damage spell to Galvanic Blast, because I obviously require an instant and not a sorcery. Thx for pointing that one out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1275" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T16:48:19.057" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T16:48:19.057" Title="What happens if the target of equipping dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6650" CreationDate="2012-02-19T10:46:36.717" Score="10" ViewCount="12688" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say someone has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ludevic's Test Subject&lt;/a&gt;, which is a 0/3 Defender, and after some mechanics, transforms into a 13/13 Lizard Horror with Trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say this someone managed to transform said card into its 13/13 Trample form, and then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Metamorph&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Metamorph&lt;/a&gt; on it (or any other clone type card if it would matter between different ones). Does the Metamorph/Clone/etc. come into play transformed, or as the 0/3 Defender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:26:09.720" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:26:09.720" Title="What happens if you use a Clone Effect on a Double Faced Card that's Transformed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6651" CreationDate="2012-02-19T11:10:29.780" Score="6" ViewCount="5260" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirrorworks&quot;&gt;Mirrorworks&lt;/a&gt; reads like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another nontoken artifact enters the battlefield under your&#xA;control, you may pay 2 (colorless). If you do, put a token that's a&#xA;copy of that artifact onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Relic&quot;&gt;Darksteel Relic&lt;/a&gt;, could I then pay 4 colorless and get a total of 3 Darksteel Relics (the original and two copies)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:50:15.450" LastActivityDate="2021-04-14T14:53:55.727" Title="Can Mirrorworks' ability be activated multiple times for the same artifact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6646" CreationDate="2012-02-19T11:55:38.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Lashwrithe stays equipped to the Germ, but your opponent doesn't get his 4 life back.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the rules for the Equip keyword:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means ‘[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your opponent wants to equip the Lashwrithe to the Skirge, he activates its Equip ability by placing the ability on the stack, choosing its target, and &lt;strong&gt;paying its activation cost&lt;/strong&gt;. He then passes priority to you, hoping that the ability will resolve. However, you respond by casting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=208251&quot; title=&quot;Instant (R) Galvanic Blast deals 2 damage to target creature or player. Metalcraft — Galvanic Blast deals 4 damage to that creature or player instead if you control three or more artifacts.&quot;&gt;Galvanic Blast&lt;/a&gt;, which resolves and kills the Skirge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You can't use a Red Sun's Zenith here, because Zenith is a Sorcery. You can only cast it during your main phase when the stack is empty, but right now it's your opponent's main phase and the stack isn't empty.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Equip ability starts to resolve, it first checks to see if its targets are still valid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that‘s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability‘s effect for which it is an illegal target can‘t perform any actions on that target or make that target perform any actions. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the Skirge is gone, the Equip ability has lost track of its only target, and &lt;strong&gt;is countered by rule 608.2b instead of resolving&lt;/strong&gt;. Because the ability doesn't resolve, no effect moves the Lashwrithe, so it stays where it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's the corrected summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He has lost 4 life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His Germ token remains alive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His Vault Skirge is dead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His Lashwrithe remains equipped to the Germ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You smile a little bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you wait until &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the Lashwrithe is equipped, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; kill the Skirge, the Germ will already be dead. However, since the equipped Lashwrithe will increase the Skirge's toughness, you'll probably need something stronger than a single Galvanic Blast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="1723" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T12:32:21.133" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T12:32:21.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6647" CreationDate="2012-02-19T12:11:00.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If an effect tries to copy a double-faced permanent, it sees whichever side is face-up.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually an example in the comprehensive rules that covers this sort of scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;711.3. Except for determining whether or not a permanent can transform, a spell, ability, effect, or rule that needs information about a double-faced permanent sees only the information given by the face that's currently up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: A Clone enters the battlefield as a copy of Wildblood Pack (the back face of a double-faced card). The Clone will be a copy of the Wildblood Pack. Because the Clone is itself not a double-faced card, it can't transform.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a clone-style effect tries to copy a permanent, it copies the &lt;em&gt;copiable values&lt;/em&gt; of that permanent. In the case of a double-faced permanent (that isn't already a copy of something else), those values are whatever is printed on the face that is currently showing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, however, that if a permanent can only transform if it's actually represented by a double-faced card. If you create a copy of Ludevic's Test Subject &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it transforms, you can add as many counters as you want, but it will never become Ludevic's Abomination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.25a Only permanents represented by double-faced cards can transform. (See rule 711, “Double-Faced Cards.”) If a spell or ability instructs a player to transform any permanent that isn‘t represented by a double-faced card, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T12:11:00.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6648" CreationDate="2012-02-19T13:18:56.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No sir, it's a one-shot effect only: you either pay 2 and get one copy, or pay nothing and get no copies.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll look into the comprehensive rules to find something that explicitly proves this, forthwith...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, you can see this is backed up in the rulings on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mirrorworks' Gatherer entry&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time the ability triggers, you can pay {2} only one time to get one token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this may be the most relevant section of the Comp Rules I've found so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains&#xA;  multiple occurrences. See also rule 509.4. Example: A permanent has an&#xA;  ability whose trigger condition reads, &quot;Whenever a land is put into a&#xA;  graveyard from the battlefield, . . . .&quot; If someone casts a spell that&#xA;  destroys all lands, the ability will trigger once for each land put&#xA;  into the graveyard during the spell's resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's obvious that the ability only triggers once.  Though I'm still hunting for an explicit rules statement that you can't pay a cost for an effect as many times as you like to reduplicate that effect.  I'll let you know if I make any progress on that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T14:57:26.137" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T14:57:26.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6652" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-19T14:01:01.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/academy/9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list of Magic:The Gathering jargon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Goldfish&lt;/em&gt; - Playing a deck against no opposition to see how it draws&#xA;  and how quickly it can win, given no resistance. At one point, this&#xA;  also referred to playing a deck against an imaginary opponent who&#xA;  simply cast a 2/2 for two every turn, though that usage has fallen out&#xA;  of favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T14:01:01.610" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T14:01:01.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6653" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-19T14:01:01.610" Score="0" Body="Playing a deck against no opposition to see how it draws and how quickly it can win, given no resistance. Most commonly used in reference to the collectible card game [tag:magic-the-gathering]." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T14:01:01.610" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T14:01:01.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6648" CreationDate="2012-02-19T16:00:08.317" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the &lt;strong&gt;thesunneversets&lt;/strong&gt; is looking for an explict rules that prevent paying multiple costs to get multiple effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. You can only get one token copy of Darksteel Relic for each nontoken Darksteel Relic that enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mirrorworks contains a triggered ability. We know this because its rules text begins with the word &amp;quot;When.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3c Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” &lt;strong&gt;and begin with the word “when,”&lt;/strong&gt; “whenever,” or “at.” Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From rule 112.3c, we also know that the &lt;strong&gt;[Trigger Condition]&lt;/strong&gt; is &amp;quot;another nontoken artifact enters the battlefield under your control&amp;quot;, and with rule 117.12 (below) the &lt;strong&gt;[effect]&lt;/strong&gt; is, &amp;quot;put a token that's a copy of that artifact onto the battlefield.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 603.2c explains that abilities only trigger one time for each event that occurs (so if multiple nontoken Darksteel Relics were coming into play, it would trigger once for each occurence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences. See also rule 509.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A permanent has an ability whose trigger condition reads, “Whenever a land&#xA;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, . . . .” If someone casts a spell that destroys all lands, the ability will trigger once for each land put into the graveyard during the spell’s resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final piece of the puzzle. We know from all the above, that there is a single existence of the triggered ability on the stack, and we know from the rule below that you can only get one token copy of the nontoken Darksteel Relic (the ability didn't say, &amp;quot;you may pay 2 any number of times&amp;quot;, and this isn't an &lt;em&gt;activated ability&lt;/em&gt; which allows playing a cost for an effect any time you have priority)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.1. A cost is an action or payment necessary to take another action or to stop another action from taking place. &lt;strong&gt;To pay a cost, a player carries out the instructions specified&lt;/strong&gt; by the spell, ability, or effect that contains that cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.12. Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, “[Do something]. If [a player] [does or doesn’t], [effect].” or &lt;strong&gt;“[A player] may [do something]&lt;/strong&gt;. If [that player] [does or doesn’t], [effect].” The action [do something] is a cost, paid when the spell or ability resolves. The “If [a player] [does or doesn’t]” clause checks whether the player chose to pay an optional cost or started to pay a mandatory cost, regardless of what events actually occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: You control Hesitation, an enchantment that says “When a player casts a spell,&#xA;sacrifice Hesitation. If you do, counter that spell.” A spell is cast, causing Hesitation’s&#xA;ability to trigger. Then an ability is activated that exiles Hesitation. When Hesitation’s&#xA;ability resolves, you’re unable to pay the “sacrifice Hesitation” cost. The spell is not&#xA;countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Mirrorworks trigger resolves, it gives you the option of paying a cost &lt;strong&gt;may pay 2&lt;/strong&gt;. Then the &lt;strong&gt;[If you do]&lt;/strong&gt; clause checks whether the cost was paid to determine if the &lt;strong&gt;[effect]&lt;/strong&gt; (put a token that's a copy of that artifact onto the battlefield) occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T16:00:08.317" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6660" CreationDate="2012-02-19T16:01:57.850" Score="21" ViewCount="4953" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has three face-down morphs on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245194&quot;&gt;Sever the Bloodline&lt;/a&gt; targeting one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we exile all three because they all have the &quot;same name&quot;? Or do we exile just one because &quot;no name&quot; indicates a lack of a characteristic altogether?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T21:29:17.653" Title="Do face-down creatures have &quot;the same name&quot; as each other?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6643" CreationDate="2012-02-19T17:03:10.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you believe in basic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beatpeopleup.com/strategy4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swing Die strategy&lt;/a&gt;, then '6' is the appropriate value for X for Changeling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The formula for Swing Die selection is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(A-B)*2/3 = (Sides the Bigger Character must keep)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where 'A'/'B' are character's dice side totals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general theory is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If you can force your bigger opponent to have to keep two or more dice, then you will have a distinct advantage. You are more likely to go first as a smaller character (smaller characters usually have dice more dice with fewer sides, and are therefore more likely to have the lowest die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Select the biggest die possible, that condition 1) will hold true. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until Changeling has won has won 2 matches, a swing die value dX='6' requires that Iagomust keep 2 dice to not lose by points. If you read down column '6', Iago must keep between 22.7 and 33.3 sides to not lose, even if they take all Changelings dice. Iago cannot select a Swing Die value that allows them to only keep a single die and still win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once Changeling has won 2 rounds, then their best Swing Die value of dX should probably be '20' unless Iago has selected dX=4 or 5. With 2 wins for Changeling, the only way Iago could switch swing die values is by losing and giving you your 3rd round win for the match. If Changeling doesn't have 2 wins yet, dX='18' is your next best swing die value. It gives you the biggest die possible, without requiring that you keep more than a single die. The best that Iago can do is select dX='4' for their next swing die, which only requires you to keep &lt;strong&gt;17.3&lt;/strong&gt; sides. Even if they do happen to win an Iago'4' vs Changeling'18' round, you can switch back to Changeling dX='6' with your swing Die and require Iago keeps 2 dice again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Changeling|'4' |'5' |'6' |'7' |'8' |'9' |'10'|'11'|'12'|'13'|'14'|'15'| '16'| '17'| '18'| '19'| '20'|   &#xA;    +--+  +----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+&#xA;    |60|  | 20 | 25 | 30 | 35 | 40 | 45 | 50 | 55 | 60 | 65 | 70 | 75 |  80 |  85 |  90 |  95 | 100 |  &#xA;    +--+--+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ &#xA;Iago| 4|64|29.3|26.0|22.7|19.3|16.0|12.7| 9.3| 6.0| 2.7|-0.7|-4.0|-7.3|-10.7|-14.0|-17.3|-20.7|-24.0|   &#xA;Iago| 5|65|30.0|26.7|23.3|20.0|16.7|13.3|10.0| 6.7| 3.3| 0.0|-3.3|-6.7|-10.0|-13.3|-16.7|-20.0|-23.3|   &#xA;Iago| 6|66|30.7|27.3|24.0|20.7|17.3|14.0|10.7| 7.3| 4.0| 0.7|-2.7|-6.0| -9.3|-12.7|-16.0|-19.3|-22.7|   &#xA;Iago| 7|67|31.3|28.0|24.7|21.3|18.0|14.7|11.3| 8.0| 4.7| 1.3|-2.0|-5.3| -8.7|-12.0|-15.3|-18.7|-22.0|   &#xA;Iago| 8|68|32.0|28.7|25.3|22.0|18.7|15.3|12.0| 8.7| 5.3| 2.0|-1.3|-4.7| -8.0|-11.3|-14.7|-18.0|-21.3|   &#xA;Iago| 9|69|32.7|29.3|26.0|22.7|19.3|16.0|12.7| 9.3| 6.0| 2.7|-0.7|-4.0| -7.3|-10.7|-14.0|-17.3|-20.7|   &#xA;Iago|10|70|33.3|30.0|26.7|23.3|20.0|16.7|13.3|10.0| 6.7| 3.3| 0.0|-3.3| -6.7|-10.0|-13.3|-16.7|-20.0|   &#xA;Iago|11|71|34.0|30.7|27.3|24.0|20.7|17.3|14.0|10.7| 7.3| 4.0| 0.7|-2.7| -6.0| -9.3|-12.7|-16.0|-19.3|   &#xA;Iago|12|72|34.7|31.3|28.0|24.7|21.3|18.0|14.7|11.3| 8.0| 4.7| 1.3|-2.0| -5.3| -8.7|-12.0|-15.3|-18.7|   &#xA;Iago|13|73|35.3|32.0|28.7|25.3|22.0|18.7|15.3|12.0| 8.7| 5.3| 2.0|-1.3| -4.7| -8.0|-11.3|-14.7|-18.0|   &#xA;Iago|14|74|36.0|32.7|29.3|26.0|22.7|19.3|16.0|12.7| 9.3| 6.0| 2.7|-0.7| -4.0| -7.3|-10.7|-14.0|-17.3|   &#xA;Iago|15|75|36.7|33.3|30.0|26.7|23.3|20.0|16.7|13.3|10.0| 6.7| 3.3| 0.0| -3.3| -6.7|-10.0|-13.3|-16.7|   &#xA;Iago|16|76|37.3|34.0|30.7|27.3|24.0|20.7|17.3|14.0|10.7| 7.3| 4.0| 0.7| -2.7| -6.0| -9.3|-12.7|-16.0|   &#xA;Iago|17|77|38.0|34.7|31.3|28.0|24.7|21.3|18.0|14.7|11.3| 8.0| 4.7| 1.3| -2.0| -5.3| -8.7|-12.0|-15.3|   &#xA;Iago|18|78|38.7|35.3|32.0|28.7|25.3|22.0|18.7|15.3|12.0| 8.7| 5.3| 2.0| -1.3| -4.7| -8.0|-11.3|-14.7|   &#xA;Iago|19|79|39.3|36.0|32.7|29.3|26.0|22.7|19.3|16.0|12.7| 9.3| 6.0| 2.7| -0.7| -4.0| -7.3|-10.7|-14.0|   &#xA;Iago|20|80|40.0|36.7|33.3|30.0|26.7|23.3|20.0|16.7|13.3|10.0| 6.7| 3.3|  0.0| -3.3| -6.7|-10.0|-13.3| &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T05:30:33.073" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T05:30:33.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6658" CreationDate="2012-02-19T17:04:47.913" Score="7" ViewCount="8787" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a situation I am confronted with more often than I want to. My opponent attacks me with his &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214386&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Obliterator&lt;/a&gt; (5/5). The card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trample;&#xA;Whenever a source deals damage to Phyrexian Obliterator, that source's controller sacrifices that many permanents.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of small creature tokens available to block with, lets take 7 Soldier tokens to make it simple. They are all 1/1. My opponent has 4 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233070&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mutagenic Growth&lt;/a&gt; in his deck and I have reason to believe that he has one of those in his hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation forces me to block, otherwise I would die. Lets assume I only have 1 life left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decide to declare all 7 Soldier tokens as blockers, so that I survive even if he uses a Mutagenic Growth. The question is what happens if he does not boost it and I am blocking the 5/5 creature with 7 Soldiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I would block with a single 7/x creature, I would deal 7 damage and I would be forced to sacrifice 7 permanents afterwards. But what about the 7 individual creatures? Do they still deal 7 damage or do they deal only deal 5? I am afraid the answer is 7, because they all deal damage at the same time, but I am not confident about my interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1275" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T17:10:20.747" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T17:15:46.527" Title="What happens if 7 Soldiers block a Phyrexian Obliterator?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6657" CreationDate="2012-02-19T17:15:46.527" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Phyrexian Obliterator takes 7 damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides first strike and double strike (which create a separate combat damage phase for first-strike damage), all creatures exchange combat damage simultaneously. So the Phyrexian Obliterator takes all 7 points of damage even though it only has 5 toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add insult to injury, its triggers go on the stack &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; state-based actions are checked (meaning it and 5 Soldiers are dead), so you'll have to sacrifice 7 permanents in addition to the 5 tokens you lost blocking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T17:15:46.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6664" CreationDate="2012-02-19T17:32:10.720" Score="2" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just played a 16 hour game of Axis &amp;amp; Allies (classic). I thought the guy playing Russia just didn't know what he was doing, but it turns out he had made a deal with Japan to just leave him alone. Thus it basically became Russia kept to himself while the UK battled Germany and the USA fought Japan. Needless to say the Allies lost handily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this allowed? Can a player basically switch teams or have a truce with the other team? Without any other players knowing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2255" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T17:55:26.387" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T18:27:19.300" Title="Can Russia make a truce with Japan (without USA/UK knowing)?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6655" CreationDate="2012-02-19T17:57:25.970" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;They don't have names:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.35a Morph is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on, and the morph effect works any time the card is face down. “Morph [cost]” means “You may cast this card as a 2/2 face-down creature, with no text, &lt;strong&gt;no name&lt;/strong&gt;, no subtypes, no expansion symbol, and no mana cost by paying {3} rather than paying its mana cost.” (See rule 707, “Face-Down Spells and Permanents.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they don't have names, they can't have the same name, so only the morph targeted by Sever the Bloodline will be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an official source, see the fourth ruling in &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=180613&quot;&gt;Maelstrom Pulse&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A face-down creature has no name, so it doesn't have the same name as anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Why &quot;no mana cost&quot; gives us a converted mana cost of 0 instead of no converted mana cost?&lt;/em&gt;: That's because there is a specific rule about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;202.3a The converted mana cost of an object with no mana cost is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-19T21:29:17.653" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T21:29:17.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6663" CreationDate="2012-02-19T18:57:07.910" Score="9" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a moving gate (from the Lurker at the Threshold expansion) would move into a vortex in Dunwich, what happens? My best guess is that, since the rules say it moves as a normal monster, it moves into the vortex, and, like a monster, adds a horror token to the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T16:37:28.897" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T16:37:28.897" Title="What happens when a gate moves onto a vortex?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6662" CreationDate="2012-02-19T19:39:11.653" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moving gates cannot move onto Vortexes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=5&amp;amp;efcid=1&amp;amp;efidt=444686&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;post on Fantasy Flight's forum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gates can't enter Vortexes. In this situation, the vortex is treated like an open gate, and gates can't move onto gates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a gate has to move into a vortex, it just stays in place instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that the answerer, Tibs, is an official representative of Fantasy Flight.  However, he has nearly 4000 posts in their Arkham Horror forums and seems to have a very good grasp upon the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-19T22:46:53.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2012-02-19T19:57:44.327" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks as if your friend has read too much history and not enough of the rulebook.  Russia did have such a truce with the Japanese (actually, there was no declaration of war until Germany had been beaten), and I'm sure Stalin would have loved it if the US and Japan had pounded each other into shreds while the Red Army was busy.  But Stalin, whatever else he may have been, was a good game player: the troops he transferred from Siberia to Moscow kept him in the game that turn, and allowed him to win on one front while keeping the other at &lt;em&gt;status quo&lt;/em&gt; till the last turn, when he made a dash for the Far Eastern victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting back to the question: of course secret inter-player agreements are 'allowed', if only because there's no way of stopping them.  But they only work if both players believe it is in their interest to keep to the agreement.  In A&amp;amp;A, it's a zero-sum problem; this Russian strategy benefits either the Axis or the Allies, and all the information to work it out is available to everybody. In your game it was a very bad plan; but in Stalin's game it worked like a charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine summed up a similar situation as &quot;Everybody's happy? Then somebody's miscalculated.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2020-01-16T18:27:19.300" LastActivityDate="2020-01-16T18:27:19.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6667" CreationDate="2012-02-20T05:44:34.123" Score="5" ViewCount="3879" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Blue Enchantment &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=xenograft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xenograft&lt;/a&gt; (New Phyrexia) reads like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As Xenograft enters the battlefield, choose a creature type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each creature you control is the chosen type in addition to its other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discussion on The Gatherer about this card is avid, complicated, and at times, contradictory.&#xA;What exactly does this card do? I was first under the impression that it affects all creature cards I control from the point it hits the board and continues to do so for the rest of the game. Then I was under the impression it only affected creatures that were in play at the time of its casting, and NOT creatures that come out later. Now I'm just totally confused and unsure about anything other than that I can obviously add creature types to some or all of my creatures, at some point or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Too much confusion. Someone set me straight! Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Xenograft apply to creatures that are already on the battlefield when it's cast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Xenograft apply to creatures that enter the battlefield after it's been cast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Gatherer's details page says, among other things, this about Xenograft:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creature cards not on the battlefield and creature spells are not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does &lt;em&gt;creature spells are not affected&lt;/em&gt; mean exactly? Aren't all creatures creature spells? I'm lost here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please go the extra mile if possible and cover anything I haven't mentioned here if it comes to your mind. I'm so lost with this card that I wouldn't be surprised if you end up answering questions I have that I can't even put into words yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-07T16:38:18.110" LastActivityDate="2020-09-30T16:06:57.590" Title="How exactly does Xenograft work, and not work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6665" CreationDate="2012-02-20T06:44:16.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hackworth's answer doesn't cover the situation where a creature is being modified &lt;strong&gt;as&lt;/strong&gt; it is entering the battlefield, nor the situation where another continuous effect with a more recent timestamp is modifying that layer. In that situation, Xenograft doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Xenograft&lt;/strong&gt; is a Static Ability with a Continuous Effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3a A static ability is a characteristic-defining ability if it meets the following criteria: (1) It defines an object’s colors, subtypes, power, or toughness;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield (and not before then). The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified characteristics. Continuous effects don't apply before the permanent is on the battlefield, however (see rule 603.6e).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: If an effect reads &amp;quot;All lands are creatures&amp;quot; and a land card is played, the effect makes the land card into a creature the moment it enters the battlefield, so it would trigger abilities that trigger when a creature enters the battlefield. Conversely, if an effect reads &amp;quot;All creatures lose all abilities&amp;quot; and a creature card with an enters-the-battlefield triggered ability enters the battlefield, that effect will cause it to lose its abilities the moment it enters the battlefield, so the enters-the-battlefield ability won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Xenograft&lt;/strong&gt; will not apply to is replacement effects that modify a creature AS it is entering the battlefield. From the 4th Ruling of Bramblewood Paragon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4/1/2008  The creature gets the counter if its copiable characteristics as it would exist on the battlefield include the specified creature type. For example, say you control Conspiracy, and the chosen creature type is Warrior. If you put a creature onto the battlefield that isn't normally a Warrior, it won't get a counter from Bramblewood Paragon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, &lt;strong&gt;Xenograft&lt;/strong&gt; doesn't apply to (as the rulings say)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature cards not on the battlefield and creature spells are not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature cards can exist in zones other than the battlefield (hand, exile, graveyard, out of the game, etc.), but you can only control creature (permanents) on the battlefield, not any other place. &lt;strong&gt;Xenograft&lt;/strong&gt; only affects creatures you control, so it cannot apply to cards in other zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108.4. A card doesn’t have a controller unless that card represents a permanent or spell; in those cases, its controller is determined by the rules for permanents or spells. See rules 110.2 and 111.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature spells can only exist on the stack, not any other place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Xenograft&lt;/strong&gt; only affects creatures on the battlefield, so it cannot apply to spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if another continuous effect modified the same layer as &lt;strong&gt;Xenograft&lt;/strong&gt;, it the ability that generated that continuous effect had a more recent timestamp, &lt;strong&gt;Xenograft's&lt;/strong&gt; continuous effect would be overridden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1d Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object’s card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.2. Within layers 1–6, apply effects from characteristic-defining abilities first (see rule 604.3), then all other effects in timestamp order (see rule 613.6). Note that dependency may alter the order in which effects are applied within a layer. (See rule 613.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T15:59:46.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6665" CreationDate="2012-02-20T08:27:41.010" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;All creatures already on the battlefield and all creatures that come under your control later are affected by Xenograft. No if's and but's. As pointed out, it's a static ability that generates a continuous effect. If Xenograft would affect only the creatures that are in play at the time of its casting, the wording would be quite different and would probably involve counters to mark the affected creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Creature cards not on the battlefield&lt;/em&gt; are simply that: Creature cards on the stack, in your hand, library, graveyard, command zone, exile, ante, or out of game are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; affected by Xenograft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Creature spells&lt;/em&gt; are not creatures, but objects on the stack. You control the spell, but a spell is not a creature, so Xenograft does not apply to them either. Only if and when the spell resolves does it become a creature to which Xenograft can apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creature spells are spells, not creatures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111 &lt;strong&gt;Spells&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. &lt;strong&gt;A spell is a card on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;. As the first step of being cast (see rule 601, &amp;quot;Casting Spells&amp;quot;), the card becomes a spell and is moved to the top of the stack from the zone it was in, which is usually its owner's hand. (See rule 405, &amp;quot;Stack.&amp;quot;) A spell remains on the stack as a spell until it resolves (see rule 608, &amp;quot;Resolving Spells and Abilities&amp;quot;), is countered (see rule 701.5), or otherwise leaves the stack. For more information, see section 6, &amp;quot;Spells, Abilities, and Effects.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302 &lt;strong&gt;Creatures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.1. &lt;strong&gt;A player who has priority may cast a creature card from his or her hand&lt;/strong&gt; during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Casting a creature as a spell uses the stack. (See rule 601, &amp;quot;Casting Spells.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.2. &lt;strong&gt;When a creature spell resolves, its controller puts it onto the battlefield under his or her control.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Xenograft only affects creatures on the battlefield:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield (and not before then). The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified characteristics. Continuous effects don't apply before the permanent is on the battlefield, however (see rule 603.6e).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6666/1718&quot;&gt;user1873's answer&lt;/a&gt; also covers this well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-08-30T11:09:23.237" LastActivityDate="2020-08-30T11:09:23.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6621" CreationDate="2012-02-20T13:54:19.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, mill decks are a bit slow.&#xA;If you want to keep the mills in your deck, you have to structure it around them - probably you'll end up with a mill+control deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a fast deck, then it would be better to go for a strategy that doesn't involve mills...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-20T13:54:19.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6681" CreationDate="2012-02-21T09:30:01.767" Score="8" ViewCount="948" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory and according to the rules book, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22827/starcraft-the-board-game&quot;&gt;Starcraft&lt;/a&gt; can be played by 2-6 players. From my own experience and what I heard from others, it does not work at all for 2 players. The random factor gets really high and the game--which takes quite some time to set up--is over within a few moves if one party attacks early on. It is not fun that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard from others that it starts getting interesting with 4 or more players. Unfortunately we don't have that many players available, so I am looking for ways to make the game more enjoyable for 2 players. Can anyone provide such house rules or strategies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T23:21:51.277" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T05:19:52.607" Title="Making 2-player Starcraft more enjoyable" Tags="|house-rules|starcraft|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6671" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-21T09:32:10.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;StarCraft: The Board Game is the board game implementation of the famous video game StarCraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Including a total of 180 plastic figures and dozens of unit types, Starcraft features an innovative modular board of varying sizes, which guarantees a new experience each and every game. An exciting card driven combat system allows players to modify and upgrade their faction with a wealth of powerful technologies. Players can unleash a Zergling rush, use powerful Protoss shields to halt an enemy invasion, or even send cloaked Ghosts out to guide nuclear missiles to their target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1275" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T14:34:18.733" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T14:34:18.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6672" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-21T09:32:10.997" Score="0" Body="StarCraft: The Board Game is the board game implementation of the famous video game StarCraft." OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1275" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T09:47:58.503" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T09:47:58.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6675" CreationDate="2012-02-21T12:19:52.310" Score="4" ViewCount="6478" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are cards that are both Land and Creature affected by summoning sickness with regard to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility to attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activating special abilities with the TAP symbol?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2532" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:24:51.840" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:50:38.417" Title="Are cards that are both Land and Creature affected by summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:21:49.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6673" CreationDate="2012-02-21T12:43:24.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are affected. If you play a land and transform it, summoning sickness applies as if you cast a creature directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a similar question in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=372709&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: This is true for attacking as well as using special abilities that require you to tap the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="1275" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T12:58:12.113" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T12:58:12.113" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6673" CreationDate="2012-02-21T13:35:31.857" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes they are affected. No they cannot use any ability that requires {T} or {Q} as part of the cost (unless the land creature also has haste).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=145391&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt; satisfies the criteria for being a creature. (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccorporation.com/gathering-cartes-view-13479-charmille-dryade.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charmille dryade&lt;/a&gt; in French)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.2b Some objects have more than one card type (for example, an artifact creature). Such objects satisfy the criteria for any effect that applies to any of their card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creatures&lt;/strong&gt; cannot activate abilities that require {T} or {Q}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.5. The tap symbol is {T}. The tap symbol in an activation cost means “Tap this permanent.” A permanent that’s already tapped can’t be tapped again to pay the cost. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. See rule 302.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.6. The untap symbol is {Q}. The untap symbol in an activation cost means “Untap this permanent.” A permanent that’s already untapped can’t be untapped again to pay the cost. A creature’s activated ability with the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. See rule 302.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creatures&lt;/strong&gt; cannot attack if you haven't controlled them since the start of their most recent turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless they have &lt;strong&gt;Haste&lt;/strong&gt;, a &lt;strong&gt;Creature&lt;/strong&gt; cannot attack or activate abilities that require {T} or {Q} in their cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.10b If a creature has haste, it can attack even if it hasn’t been controlled by its controller continuously since his or her most recent turn began. (See rule 302.6.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.10c If a creature has haste, its controller can activate its activated abilities whose cost includes the tap symbol or the untap symbol even if that creature hasn’t been controlled by that player continuously since his or her most recent turn began. (See rule 302.6.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:50:38.417" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6670" CreationDate="2012-02-21T13:55:08.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Starcraft supports &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/StarCraft/StarCraft_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Team Play Variant&lt;/a&gt;, couldn't you an your opponent each play both people on a single team? (is Team Play also unbalanced?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you will have to develop some &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/480293/first-attempt-at-single-player-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sort of AI&lt;/a&gt;, or alternate turns controlling a third player (if that is possible strategically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T13:55:08.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6678" CreationDate="2012-02-21T14:59:52.187" Score="3" ViewCount="1448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware this is very much like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6576/brink-of-disaster-timing&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but that question's answer does not answer my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrink%20of%20Disaster%5d&quot;&gt;Brink of Disaster&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchant creature or land.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When enchanted permanent becomes tapped, destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if the enchanted creature is already tapped when Brink of Disaster is played? Is it immediately destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what if the enchanted creature was an untapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSteel%20Overseer%5d&quot;&gt;Steel Overseer&lt;/a&gt;? If I tap the Steel Overseer to put a +1+1 counter on my artifact creatures, does the ability work before the Overseer is destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:46:35.870" Title="Would Brink of Disaster destroy an already tapped permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6677" CreationDate="2012-02-21T15:23:19.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all in the rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3/1/2010  Brink of Disaster may target and may enchant a permanent&#xA;  that's already tapped. &lt;strong&gt;It won't do anything until the enchanted&#xA;  permanent changes from being untapped to being tapped.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3/1/2010  When the enchanted permanent becomes tapped, Brink of&#xA;  Disaster's ability triggers. That permanent will be destroyed when the&#xA;  ability resolves, even if Brink of Disaster has left the battlefield&#xA;  or is somehow enchanting a different permanent by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3/1/2010  If the enchanted permanent is tapped as a cost to activate a&#xA;  mana ability, the mana ability resolves immediately, then Brink of&#xA;  Disaster's ability goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3/1/2010  &lt;strong&gt;If the enchanted permanent is tapped as a cost to activate&#xA;  an ability that's not a mana ability, Brink of Disaster's ability will&#xA;  go on the stack on top of that activated ability. Brink of Disaster's&#xA;  ability resolves first (destroying that permanent), then the&#xA;  permanent's activated ability resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rulings are all clarifications that follow from the card's own rules text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;When X, do Y&quot; is a triggered ability, meaning that the action will go on the stack after the triggering event occurs. If you tapped something to use its non-mana activated ability (like Steel Overseer's), then the effect is still on the stack when Brink's trigger goes on the stack -- on top of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trigger text is &quot;becomes tapped&quot;. It doesn't care about the current state of the permanent, only when a specific action occurs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-21T15:37:47.587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T15:37:47.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6677" CreationDate="2012-02-21T15:32:34.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For your first question (what happens if Brink of Disaster is played on a tapped permanent) - nothing happens to the permanent enchanted by Brink of Disaster until it goes from untapped to tapped (via activating an ability, attacking, or something like Twitch). The game event of it becoming tapped is what triggers the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability's trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn't do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your second (what happens if a permanent's activated ability cost requires tapping, and you use it), events occur in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The activated ability is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player would receive priority - before this, the triggered effect is put on the stack on top of the activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that's not a card the next time a player would receive priority. See rule 116, &quot;Timing and Priority.&quot; The ability becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on the stack until it's countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;People respond normally (active player now has priority, can pass, lets things on the stack resolve normally).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Unless something else is put on the stack causing Brink of Disaster, it resolves, destroying the permanent (unless it's indestructible).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;People respond normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Unless the original activated ability was somehow removed from the stack, it resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  In the case of step 6, the activated ability will still resolve, putting a +1/+1 counter on each artifact creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-02-21T15:32:34.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-21T15:58:43.503" Score="5" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mimuw.edu.pl/~pan/papers/yahtzee.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yahtzee&lt;/a&gt; has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solved_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;weakly solved&lt;/a&gt;* for single player, and uses about the same dice on average. The game is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_complexity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;probably only slightly more complex&lt;/a&gt; than Yahtzee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can an optimal strategy for Roll Through the Ages for two players be implemented on modern hardware?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things worry me about the two player game. The two player game could technically never end, as neither player is forced to build monuments or buy developments. I am not certain that this is a problem for discovering an optimum strategy, but it could be. Another troublesome point, is that in RTtA even though you only start out rolling 3 dice, you can have you rolling as many as 7 dice per turn (as early as turn 3) instead of Yahtzee's 5 dice. This has already tripled the number of outcomes (using the &lt;strong&gt;bag-model&lt;/strong&gt; described below) for the first roll of a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;*Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Given any roll of the dice, has an optimal strategy for &quot;rerolling which dice/building which monument/buying which tech&quot; be calculated that will maximizes your points while minimizing your losses such that you have the greatest chance of winning a game? (on current hardware))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The more I think about this problem, the less I think this community has the expertise to answer it. It is probably better suited for Math.SE, or StackOverflow.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Roll Through the Ages - (Solitaire Play)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Roll X Dice (x = Cities, x = 3-7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1a) Choose dice to keep or re-roll, (skulls must be kept in the multiplayer game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1b) Choose dice to keep or re-roll, (skulls must be kept in multiplayer game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Feed Cities and resolve disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Build Cities and/or Monuments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) You may buy up to 1 development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Discard Goods in excess of 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game ends at the end of the round when one player has 5 developments, or all monuments have been completed by at least one player. (solitaire play ends &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; on the 10th round).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game Complexity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look at the complexity of a game it two different ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All possible games (game tree size), or all possible game states (state-space complexity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this paper about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-set.win.tue.nl/~wstomv/misc/yahtzee/yahtzee-report-unfinished.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Optimizing Solitaire Yahtzee&lt;/a&gt; scores. You can see one of the generalizations about the game tree. The completely specified game tree is very complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(game tree size) = (permutations rolling 5 six sided dice) (ways of rerolling)^(2 times) (ways of choosing score line)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(game tree size) = (6^5) * (7^5)^(2) * (13!)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(game tree size) = (approx) 1.725 10^170&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to solve Yahtzee using this model is not feasible using modern desktop hardware. This isn't a problem, because the previous model made some assumptions that aren't true. For one, it assumes that you can distinguish between the different dice. This of course isn't the case. A roll of { 1, 1, 1, 1, 2} is exactly the same as { 2, 1, 1, 1, 1} (as well as 3 other rolls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|Value    |Lists|Bag|Lists|&#xA;+---------+-----+---+-----+&#xA;|a,a,a,a,a|    1|  6|    6|&#xA;|a,a,a,a,b|    5| 30|  150|&#xA;|a,a,a,b,b|   10| 30|  300|&#xA;|a,a,a,b,c|   20| 60| 1200|&#xA;|a,a,b,b,c|   30| 60| 1800|&#xA;|a,a,b,c,d|   60| 60| 3600|&#xA;|a,b,c,d,e|  120|  6|  720|&#xA;+---------+-----+---+-----+&#xA; Total          |252| 7776|&#xA;                +---+-----+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bag model versus the list model gives us a reduction in possible dice states (from 7776 to 252) (&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: For RTtA, if you are rolling 7 dice, the bag model only has 792 (instead of 279936) initial outcomes on the first roll). Using this model does make it more difficult to calculate all the possibilities of what you can reroll. I won't go into the details (read the linked white paper if you are interested), but it reduces the game-tree size to 2.806*10^119 (51 fold decrease). This is a model of the entire game-tree, and it could be used to determine the optimal strategy from any point in a game.  A similar &lt;strong&gt;bag-deterministic model&lt;/strong&gt; can be used for RTtA to reduce complexity, but this isn't really what we are trying to solve. What we are really interested in, is the state-space complexity. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mimuw.edu.pl/~pan/papers/yahtzee.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jakub Pawlewicz&lt;/a&gt;'s paper has done even more optimization to remove the number of edges (transitions) from one state (node) to another, and mentions that what would have taken 10 minutes without edge optimization only takes 30 seconds on modern hardware.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.loyola.edu/~jglenn/research/optimal_yahtzee.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;research&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:05:39.600" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T02:51:13.093" Title="Can an optimal strategy for Roll Through the Ages be created for two player games on modern hardware?" Tags="|computer-ai|roll-through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6670" CreationDate="2012-02-22T00:38:44.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brood War expansion includes a number of scenarios, one of which is explicitly designed for two players.  The gameplay in a scenario is pretty much the same as the core game, except with predetermined galaxy layout and often some form of &quot;capture the objective&quot;-style mechanic added (the two-player scenario, for example, prevents either side from moving onto the Terran's home planet unless they have control of a &quot;bridge&quot; zone first).  I don't have the rulebook handy for reference so I don't know if the two-player scenario is entirely playable with only base-set pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flight Games offers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/StarCraft/article_3_brood_war/bw_scenario_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this scenario&lt;/a&gt; for free download, which is for four players (two teams of two players); there's no reason it can't be played with two players each playing both factions of a team.  It does however require pieces from the expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-02-22T00:51:03.113" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T00:51:03.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6683" CreationDate="2012-02-22T10:05:46.320" Score="2" ViewCount="4023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5914/can-you-sacrifice-a-tapped-creature&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; that tapped permanents can be sacrificed, but if a permanent creates an effect before it is sacrificed, does the effect still resolve or is it cancelled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I want to know is that I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2646&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{R} - {T}, Sacrifice a Forest: Add three mana in any combination of {R} and/or {G} to your mana pool.&quot;&gt;Orcish Lumberjack&lt;/a&gt; to sacrifice a Forest that I also tap for {G}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a sacrifice equivalent to bury or destroy in that all three put the permanent in its owner's graveyard? Does sacrifice have any special side effects on the sacrificed permanent and any effects it has created?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:24:30.407" Title="Does sacrificing a permanent cancel its effects, or do they still resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6682" CreationDate="2012-02-22T10:19:42.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a permanent does an effect before it is sacrified (ie a land tapped for mana or a creature tapped for a special ability), does this effect is canceled by the sacrifice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. In general, once an ability has been activated or triggered, it does not get &quot;canceled&quot; for any reason. There are two exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is explicitly countered (for example, by the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227225&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;, pun intended)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the ability has targets, and if all the targets are gone or invalid when the ability resolves, then it is implicitly countered. Remember that the thing that caused the ability to happen is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a target. Targets are only the things that you explicitly choose because the ability's text includes the word &quot;target.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ultimately, is a sacrifice equivalent to burry or destroy, or has it special side effects on the sacrified target and its effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope. The only thing involved in sacrificing a permanent is that you put it in the graveyard. However, keep in mind that regeneration does not prevent this from happening - in other words, if you regenerate a permanent, and then sacrifice it, it still goes to the graveyard. This differs from being destroyed: if you regenerate a permanent, and then it gets destroyed, the regeneration replaces the destruction so that the permanent doesn't go to the graveyard after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T10:19:42.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6682" CreationDate="2012-02-22T12:48:28.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a permanent does an effect before it is sacrificed (ie a land tapped for mana or a creature tapped for a special ability), does this effect is canceled by the sacrifice?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Sacrifice doesn't care about the state of a permanent being sacrificed. Sacrifice cannot cancel anything, it can only move a permanent you control from the battlefield to its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Land being tapped for mana is a mana ability, as is &lt;strong&gt;Orcish Lumberjack&lt;/strong&gt;'s activated ability. These mana abilities don't go on the stack, and resolve immediately so it cannot be countered or cancelled in any way (with one exception noted below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;605.1a An activated ability is a mana ability if it meets three criteria: it doesn’t have a target, it could put mana into a player’s mana pool when it resolves, and it’s not a loyalty ability. (See rule 606, “Loyalty Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;605.3b An activated mana ability doesn’t go on the stack, so it can’t be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated. (See rule 405.6c.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature &lt;em&gt;tapped&lt;/em&gt; (or other cost) for an activated ability that isn't a mana ability, gets placed on the stack. It can be responded to (countered, replaced, etc.), but the ability exist independently of its source (the creature). Sacrificing the creature that generated the activated ability will have no effect on the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultimately, is a sacrifice equivalent to bury or destroy, or does sacrifice have any special side effects on the sacrificed permanent and its effects?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither. Sacrifice is certainly not the same as destroy, since you cannot sacrifice a permanent that you don't control, but you can destroy permanents that you don't control. You can replace destruction with regeneration, but you cannot replace sacrifice with regeneration. Bury is an old term that is currently obsolete, and some but not all cards have received errata so that they now say &amp;quot;sacrifice [a permanent]&amp;quot;. This isn't an equivalence relationship, because not all &amp;quot;bury&amp;quot; cards are &amp;quot;sacrifice&amp;quot; cards. Other cards have received errata so that they now say &amp;quot;destroy [a permanent], it cannot be regenerated.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To &lt;strong&gt;sacrifice&lt;/strong&gt; a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6a To &lt;strong&gt;destroy&lt;/strong&gt; a permanent, move it from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6b The only ways a permanent can be destroyed are as a result of an effect that uses the word “destroy” or as a result of the state-based actions that check for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g) or damage from a source with deathtouch (see rule 704.5h). If a permanent is put into its owner’s graveyard for any other reason, it hasn’t been “destroyed.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6c A regeneration effect replaces a destruction event. See rule 701.12, “Regenerate.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bury (Obsolete)&lt;/strong&gt; - A term that meant “put [a permanent] into its owner’s graveyard.” In general, cards that were printed with the term “bury” have received errata in the Oracle card reference to read, “Destroy [a permanent]. It can’t be regenerated,” or “Sacrifice [a permanent].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: The only way to cancel a mana ability is due to a player making an illegal action (i.e. Casting a spell, but realizing that they don't have the mana (or other additional costs) necessary to pay for the spell. In this situation, the game is backed up to a previous state just before the illegal action. Mana abilities used to pay for the spell are reversed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Handling Illegal Actions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;717.1. If a player realizes that he or she can’t legally take an action after starting to do so, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled. No abilities trigger and no effects apply as a result of an undone action. If the action was casting a spell, the spell returns to the zone it came from. The player may also reverse any legal mana abilities activated while making the illegal play, unless mana from them or from any triggered mana abilities they triggered was spent on another mana ability that wasn’t reversed. Players may not reverse actions that moved cards to a library, moved cards from a library to any zone other than the stack, or caused a library to be shuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T05:52:20.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6687" CreationDate="2012-02-22T16:51:19.727" Score="6" ViewCount="2917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say a 2/2 creature with deathtouch attacks another 2/2 creature with undying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see there are two ways this could resolve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage is applied, killing creature B. As the damage was enough to kill it deathtouch will not matter. The creature is then put back into play, alive, with a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage is applied, killing creature B. It is then put back into play, but with its previous state, i.e. still having deathtouch applied to it, thus killing it and putting it into the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be grateful if someone could clear this up for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2533" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:24:21.717" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:24:21.717" Title="What happens when an undying creature takes damage from a creature with deathtouch?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6685" CreationDate="2012-02-22T17:20:31.003" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The undying creature will return and stay.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your provided answer options indicate a misunderstanding of what Deathtouch is. Deathtouch merely says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2. Deathtouch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2a Deathtouch is a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2b Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature's toughness. See rules 510.1c - d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal damage to kill a creature, two conditions have to be true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sum of all damage packets on that creature has to be 1 or greater.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sum of all damage packets on that creature has to match or exceed its current toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If both conditions are met, all damage packets are removed from the creature and it is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of the damage packets comes from a source with Deathtouch, it merely removes the second condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Deathtouch is not, for example, a triggered ability that would cause &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; destruction affect on top of lethal damage - there still is only 1 destruction effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going further, your option 1 is closer to the truth than option 2 - if a creature dies and returns, it returns as a new object and (with few exceptions) all spells, abilities, etc. tracking the creature's previous incarnation will have lost track of its new version. So even if the Deathtouch was an effect using the stack, it would still not destroy the returned creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to StuartCook, a little correction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2c A creature with toughness greater than 0 that's been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked is destroyed as a state-based action. See rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the Deathtouch rule comes into effect only immediately after Deathtouch damage has been dealt - if a creature has been indestructible or anything similiar at the time the Deathtouch destruction effect was checked for, but loses that ability later the same turn, Deathtouch damage no longer ignores the creature's actual toughness. It's a one-time effect and for the purposes of destruction becomes regular damage if the creature did not die from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually a clever way of keeping the &amp;quot;touch&amp;quot; feel of that ability intact in the rules - once the touch is over (after combat), it no longer kills the target immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T10:07:52.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2012-02-22T19:53:27.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like the USA player made the mistake here, not the Russians.  Having Japan ignore/not attack Russia is a big boon to the Allies, IF they concentrate on conquering Germany as quickly as possible, and pretty much ignore Japan in the early going.  Since concentrating on Germany gives the Allies the best chance of success regardless of what the Axis do, they should be doing that anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2012-02-22T19:53:27.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6927" CreationDate="2012-02-23T13:55:21.170" Score="4" ViewCount="4946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Khet 2.0 and I've played it a couple of times (we used the &quot;Classic&quot; starting position both times). I didn't really feel like I knew what I was doing as regards tactics / strategy, mostly I seemed to be waiting for my opponent to make a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tactics or strategy can I use to help me win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:04:10.833" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T18:04:10.833" Title="What are some good tactics for Khet 2.0?" Tags="|khet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3144" CreationDate="2012-02-23T16:16:04.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, (according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/atouchofevil/pdf/ATOE_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;) the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Card:Deadly_Encounter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deadly Encounter&lt;/a&gt; mystery card will cause the &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Villain:Spectral_Horseman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spectral Horseman&lt;/a&gt; to move along the shortest path to the Town Hall, Fighting every Hero along the way as &lt;strong&gt;normal&lt;/strong&gt; for his Relentless Charge ability. The card &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Chart:%22The_Horseman_Rides_Tonight!%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Horseman Rides Tonight&lt;/a&gt;!&amp;quot; specifically tells you to do so, and Deadly Encounter causes a &lt;strong&gt;Fight&lt;/strong&gt;. (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=ATOE_Ability:Relentless_Charge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Relentless Charge&lt;/a&gt; - At the end of &lt;strong&gt;any fight&lt;/strong&gt; with the Spectral Horseman, he will ride the shortest route directly to the Town Hall, engaging in one fight round against any Hero moved over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it is canceled, **The Horseman Rides Tonight&amp;quot; event will take place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times a card will allow you to cancel another card as it is played or that Remains in Play.  As noted earlier, an Event Card may not be canceled after it has already caused dice to be rolled or rerolled.  Mystery Cards may always be canceled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; You actual ask, can the Mystery Card cancel the event, but that Mystery Phase  would happen after the event &amp;quot;The Horseman Rides Tonight&amp;quot; is played. So it would make more sense to ask, can The Horseman Rides Tonight&amp;quot; Event Card, cancel the Mystery Card Deadly Encounter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Events are played as fast effect style cards and, unless noted otherwise, may be played at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each Game Round, every player (starting with the First Player) takes their Hero&#xA;Turn in order, moving clockwise around the table. Once each Hero has finished, there is a &lt;strong&gt;Mystery Phase&lt;/strong&gt; in which the Villain gets to unleash some evil on the Heroes in the form of drawing a Mystery Card and reading it aloud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-23T16:16:04.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-23T23:09:14.120" Score="3" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to learn 3-D chess by playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.parmen.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parmen&lt;/a&gt; against the computer.  I've read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.arcor.de/jens.meder/3dschach/chess3d.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; and am fairly confident I've got a good, basic understanding of the game.  However, in my first game, I've quickly encountered a situation where the program is telling me I'm trying to make an illegal move which I think would be legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moves so far (I'm playing white):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;a4N, Nc6N  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;c4N, Nb6N  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Nb3N, Nxc4N  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;d3N, N4a5B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The move I'd like to make now is &lt;code&gt;Nxa5B&lt;/code&gt;, but I'm alerted that it is an illegal move.  Can someone explain to me why this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2012-02-23T23:41:27.603" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T06:00:35.233" Title="Why is this move illegal?" Tags="|3d-chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6700" CreationDate="2012-02-24T00:25:07.767" Score="10" ViewCount="2991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid my Dixit cards will get worn or marked over time. I want players to be able to manipulate them without being afraid of ruining them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where can I find protective sleeves for my Dixit cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="5542" LastEditDate="2013-07-25T13:21:57.190" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:17:38.377" Title="Where can I find protective sleeves for my Dixit cards?" Tags="|game-accessories|dixit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6699" CreationDate="2012-02-24T00:49:08.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maydaygames.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=magnum&amp;amp;x=0&amp;amp;y=0&quot;&gt;Mayday Games&lt;/a&gt; has 80 x 120 mm in stock which is what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm told that 3 x 5 recipe card covers will work as well.  You can find them on Amazon if you can't find them locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T00:49:08.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-24T04:55:55.527" Score="8" ViewCount="32264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly every cribbage player knows that 29 is the highest-scoring hand that one can achieve, and that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4446/what-hand-scores-are-impossible-in-cribbage&quot;&gt;19 and some others&lt;/a&gt; are impossible to score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'm curious to know what is the highest score one can achieve during the play of the cards (also known as &quot;pegging&quot;?  What cards would need to be played, in what order, and what would your opponent's pegged score be?  &lt;strong&gt;This question is meant to exclude the final count of points in one's hand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure the answer probably differs between 2, 3, and 4-player games because there are more cards available when there are more players.  My question is focused on the two player game.  If anyone happens to have answers for the others as well though, those would be interesting to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2019-01-06T23:48:29.670" Title="What's the highest score that can be achieved by pegging?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6698" CreationDate="2012-02-24T06:00:35.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your King is in check from your opponent's Queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T06:00:35.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6704" CreationDate="2012-02-24T13:32:10.823" Score="14" ViewCount="4287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought Pandemic and I'm going to play it for the first time tomorrow. Having read the rules I wasn't quite sure how to interpret:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who was most recently sick goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the person who most recently vomited? Or just generally ill? What about long-term / chronic conditions such as asthma or diabetes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it's a co-operative game, does it actually matter who starts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T21:10:32.517" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:17:22.840" Title="Who goes first in Pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2012-02-24T14:19:05.393" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;They mean (infected) since the game is about infectious diseases (viruses probably, but possibly also bacteria), not physically ill such to induce vomitting. Long term conditions such as diabetes, heart conditions, or alcoholism are not what they are referring to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't actually matter who goes first (because of the games co-operative nature), unless the cards that each person has in hand is open information to other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-24T14:48:26.247" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T14:48:26.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6701" CreationDate="2012-02-24T15:01:46.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cribbage_statistics&quot;&gt;Cribbage Statistics&lt;/a&gt; page answers this question, 78 for the dealer (hand + pegged + crib)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The maximum number of points that can be scored in a single deal by the dealer in a two player game is 78 (pegging + hand + crib):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Non-dealer is dealt 3 3 4 4 5 J and Dealer is dealt 3 3 4 4 5 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Non-dealer discards J 5 to the crib (as ill-advised as this may be). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dealer discards 5 5 to the crib. Note that the J is suited to the remaining 5. The remaining 5 is cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play is 3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 go. The dealer scores 29 total peg points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The dealer's hand is 3 3 4 4 5 = 20&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The dealer's crib is J(nobs) 5 5 5 5 = 29&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The total score for the dealer is 29 + 20 + 29 = 78.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The maximum number of points that can be scored in a single deal by the non-dealer in a two player game is 48 (pegging + hand), with the following example :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Non-dealer is dealt 5 5 4 4 crib crib and Dealer is dealt 4 4 5 9 crib crib. Cut card is a 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play is 5 5 5 4 4 4 4, with the Non-dealer pegging 24. The Non-dealer scores 24 in the hand for a total of 48 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Combining this hand with the highest dealer hand, a standard 121 point game can be completed in just two deals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-24T15:20:41.980" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T15:20:41.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6701" CreationDate="2012-02-24T15:02:48.973" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you scroll down to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rubl.com/rules/cribbage-statistics.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Pegging Maximal Score&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, they outline how the dealer can peg 30 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that page from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/4505/1885&quot;&gt;an answer to the question that you linked above&lt;/a&gt;... not sure how you missed that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joe O'Brien showed, that dealer can score 30 points (not 26 points as we stated before with a dealer's hand 4,4,4,7, pone's hand 4,8,10,K, and the jack as a starter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Joe's example Dealer hand 7,7,4,4 ; Pone hand 7,7,4,4. Sequence of play is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pone 7 7 4 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealer 7 7 4 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealer Points 2 13 2 13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealer Totals 2 15 17 30&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example of dealer maximal cribbage hands is in the article based on the letter of Joe O'Brien.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - Joe O'Brien showed that there is a hand that will give the&#xA;pone a total of 24 in pegging. The Pone holding 5 5 4 4, and the&#xA;Dealer holding 5 4 4 (na/). The Pone hits both the fifteen and the&#xA;thirty-one, picking up a triple at the 15 mark and a pair and four of&#xA;a kind on the way to the thirty-one mark. Kyle Graham showed, that&#xA;pone can score 22 points (in opposite to other articles, that states&#xA;max pone score is 18 points). Pone's hand: A, A, 3, 3; Dealer's hand&#xA;A, 3, 3, NA. The sequence of play is A, A, A, 3, 3, 3, 3, NA; Pone&#xA;gets 6+2+14 = 22 points. Later our player Kenneth Anderson showed,&#xA;that the maximum cribbage scoring for Pone pegging is 23. Pone's hand:&#xA;5 (or 6) 4 4 4; Dealer's hand: 5 (or 6) 4 9 9 (9 9 could be any cards&#xA;worth 9 or above). Total Pone points: 5+6+12 = 23 . More examples of&#xA;pone maximal cribbage hands are in the article based on the letters of&#xA;Joe O'Brien, Kyle Graham and Kenneth Anderson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:07:42.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2012-02-24T15:09:13.070" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with user1873 on what they were getting at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general answer for most board games, what they're usually getting at is to choose the start player randomly. Many games, like Pandemic, use a thematic method to do so. I think Pandemic's actually works well, since that will change over time with a static group; Ticket to Ride uses something like &quot;the most well-traveled player&quot;, which is less likely to change if you always play with the same people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally try to keep a die around even if no games I'm playing use one to determine start player. That way, even if there are some interpretation disagreements over the start player rule (which I'm certain was not intentional), we can still determine it randomly and relatively quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T15:09:13.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6720" CreationDate="2012-02-24T18:49:06.330" Score="4" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my favorite games is a now out-of-print game from Cheapass games called Starbase Jeff.  I've been looking for a copy of it for years and haven't had any luck.  Sadly, the game wasn't designed by James Ernest but another game designer, so I doubt it will eventually join the other fine games that he has put out for free on the cheapass site.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know where I could get a copy of the game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2540" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T00:24:19.850" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T16:00:18.610" Title="Where can I find a copy of Starbase Jeff?" Tags="|starbase-jeff|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6710" CreationDate="2012-02-24T19:12:33.603" Score="9" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF2.pdf&quot;&gt;Magic Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; specifically state 'For the first game of a match, the winner of a random method (such as a die roll or coin toss) chooses either to play first or play second'.  My method of choice has often been Rock-Paper-Scissors, but it never occurred to me until recently that this might not be considered a valid method under the rules.  Obviously this question is more hypothetical than not; if my opponent disagrees with my method of randomization then a different option, or a judge, would be called for.  But at least in theory, spectators or judges watching our match could complain, so the question holds: is RPS (likely to be) considered a 'random method' for determining play/draw under the tournament rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T16:28:00.317" Title="Do the Magic tournament rules allow Rock-Paper-Scissors to see who goes first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6709" CreationDate="2012-02-24T19:54:54.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that &lt;strong&gt;it's really up to the judge.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Events/Rules.aspx?category=magic%3athegathering&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; just say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the first game of a match, the winner of a random method (such as&#xA;  a die roll or coin toss) chooses either to play first or to play&#xA;  second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't really specify a more detailed criterion for &quot;random.&quot; (For example,  cutting to a random card of each other's decks and then comparing their mana costs is a method players use some times. It's random, but it's not actually &lt;em&gt;fair&lt;/em&gt;: the CMC of various cards in your deck skews the results.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first assumption was no rock-paper-scissors, since RPS is a game that permits some level of psychological skill. However, here's a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=sideboard/gpcle02/fm7&quot;&gt;an old tournament report&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The both of them shuffled up and scanned about for a way to figure out&#xA;  who went first; turns out neither of them had dice. &quot;That's the&#xA;  problem with being up here,&quot; deadpanned Jensen. &quot;You play against a&#xA;  random? They always have a die.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It was suggested that perhaps the two of them play rock, paper,&#xA;  scissors to decide who would go first, but Jensen said that it wasn't&#xA;  random enough. &quot;Rock, paper, scissors is strategy,&quot; he said earnestly.&#xA;  &quot;I think I could psych someone out at rock, paper, scissors.&quot;&#xA;  Eventually, someone donated not only a twenty, but a twelve-sider and&#xA;  a ten-sider, and they rolled all three and added them up to see who&#xA;  went first. Jensen snagged it with a 22.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it was &lt;em&gt;the opponent&lt;/em&gt; who decided RPS was insufficient, not a judge. This implies that RPS might've been acceptable if both players were fine with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In practice, I would expect low-level events not to care about the exact quality of the method you use as long as it's mutually agreeable to both parties (which is all the comp rules really call for), unless they've had to set up a specific system due to previous issues with cheating.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-02-24T20:02:39.677" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T20:02:39.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6685" CreationDate="2012-02-24T20:09:10.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know the comprehensive rules for this, but from my understanding when the creature returns back to the battlefield it's considered a new object, so the douthtouch that was on it previously wouldn't see it either way since it doesn't know this new object.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the same as a creature with undying having an enchantment on it when it dies.  When it dies the enchanment fizzles because it's original creature is gone and it doesn't recognize the &quot;new&quot; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T20:09:10.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1158" CreationDate="2012-02-24T20:49:44.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlingames.com/collections/yomi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yomi&lt;/a&gt; from Sirlin Games is designed with this specific purpose in mind.  Where the whole game is supposed to be about RPS with unclear-unequal decisions.  It basically is a card game version of Street Fighter.  Its an expensive game but there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasystrike.com/forums/index.php?portal/portal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;free trial&lt;/a&gt; available on the web.  You can find the rules on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasystrike.com/guide/index.php/Yomi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2431" LastActivityDate="2012-02-24T20:49:44.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6621" CreationDate="2012-02-25T03:07:25.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some low cost card that could help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220099&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{1}{U} - You may have Phantasmal Image enter the battlefield as a copy of any creature on the battlefield, except it's an Illusion in addition to its other types and it gains &amp;quot;When this creature becomes the target of a spell or ability, sacrifice it.&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Image&lt;/a&gt; - can copy your more expensive creatures for just two mana and if your opponent has the advantage it can even the odds by copying their creature, also the easiest way to take out thrun or any other legendary creature.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220021&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{B} - Choose one — Return target creature card from your graveyard to your hand; or return two target Zombie cards from your graveyard to your hand.&quot;&gt;Ghoulcaller's Chant&lt;/a&gt; - cheap card advantage&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262835&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{B} - Target creature gains undying until end of turn.&quot;&gt;Undying Evil&lt;/a&gt; - essentially casting any creature you've got with a +1/+1, only drawback is that it needs to be about to die&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{B} or {2 life} - Choose target card in a graveyard other than a basic land card. Search its owner's graveyard, hand, and library for any number of cards with the same name as that card and exile them. Then that player shuffles his or her library.&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; - a little bit of mill and can really mess with decks that rely on certain cards&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=210226&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{1} - {T}, Sacrifice Nihil Spellbomb: Exile all cards from target player's graveyard. When Nihil Spellbomb is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, you may pay {B}. If you do, draw a card.&quot;&gt;Nihil spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; - Its a cantrip that helps you get to cards you want, and can help against effects that can allow your opponent to benefit from cards in their graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards I would reduce the number of:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{2} - {T}: Put a charge counter on Grindclock.{T}: Target player puts the top X cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard, where X is the number of charge counters on Grindclock.&quot;&gt;Grindclock&lt;/a&gt;: doesn't really have anything to do with zombies and you don't have any way of putting counters on it besides itself.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262839&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{4}{U}{U} - When Geralf's Mindcrusher enters the battlefield, target player puts the top five cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard. Undying&quot;&gt;Geralf's Mindcrusher&lt;/a&gt;: 4 6 cmc creatures is pretty slow and you have no mana ramp.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{3}{B} - Exile target creature and all other creatures with the same name as that creature. Flashback  {5}{B}{B}&quot;&gt;Sever the Bloodline&lt;/a&gt;: 4 mana removal like somebody else said is a bit much&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262856&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{X}{U} - Target player puts the top X cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard. If Increasing Confusion was cast from a graveyard, that player puts twice that many cards into his or her graveyard instead. Flashback {X}{U}&quot;&gt;Increasing Confusion&lt;/a&gt;: is great but 4 is a bit much since you can cast them twice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2536" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T00:57:47.503" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T00:57:47.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6717" CreationDate="2012-02-25T06:57:32.493" Score="10" ViewCount="15544" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a werewolf transforming card in play, currently with the human side face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a sliver in my hand with sliver cycling. I cycle this sliver to find another in my deck. The one in my hand therefore goes into my graveyard. I end my turn after revealing my chosen sliver and placing it in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent wants to transform his werewolf, claiming I cast no spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I payed mana, a card left my hand and entered my graveyard. Was that a spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="7480" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T18:20:04.853" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T18:20:04.853" Title="Is cycling a card from your hand considered a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6719" CreationDate="2012-02-25T07:05:50.440" Score="6" ViewCount="8327" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back in the day we didn't have &lt;code&gt;Creature - Name&lt;/code&gt; card types, instead we had &lt;code&gt;Summon - Name&lt;/code&gt; card types. Long ago in magic, cards were printed entirely differently, and this actually creates some interesting situations with the present day rulings. For example, in the past the &lt;code&gt;Defender&lt;/code&gt; ability was non-existent. There were instead creatures printed &lt;code&gt;Summon - Wall&lt;/code&gt; and such creatures with the &lt;code&gt;Wall&lt;/code&gt; subtype were ruled to not be able to attack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's supposedly possible now with the introduction of &lt;code&gt;Defender&lt;/code&gt; that such old walls without &lt;code&gt;Defender&lt;/code&gt; can actually attack, drastically changing how some cards have been used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if my opponent has such a card, &lt;code&gt;Summon - Wall&lt;/code&gt;, or perhaps &lt;code&gt;Summon - Goblin&lt;/code&gt;, etc., does that count in the present rulings as a Creature Card? Can I target it with &quot;&lt;em&gt;destroy non-black creature&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, or perhaps &quot;&lt;em&gt;return target creature to opponent's hand&lt;/em&gt;&quot;? The confusion between my group of players is the word &lt;em&gt;Creature&lt;/em&gt; is actually not on these cards, and it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; on every other creature card that's out in this time and age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T19:40:40.620" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T16:11:26.083" Title="Are Summon - [insert-creature-type-here] cards creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6784" CreationDate="2012-02-25T07:18:30.080" Score="22" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;For games in which it is not possible to take simultaneous turns, as the number of players increases, so does the wait time between a player's turn and their turn again. It becomes a balancing issue with the game's design to keep the game the same or introduce elements that help speed up game-play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the maximum downtime between turns that I can expect players to be ok with?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What steps can be taken to mitigate downtime between turns (examples from games, and your opinion of their effectiveness, are appreciated).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Settlers of Catan, when expanded to 5-6 players, allows all players to make purchases during any player's turn. This is done to mitigate having too many cards if the robber comes up between your turns, but it also increased engagement on other people's turns. MtG and other CCGs have instants that can affect your opponent's turns.  Even games like Monopoly allow trading between players to keep them engaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other design approaches can be used for larger numbers of players if simultaneous play (like Roll Through the Ages) isn't possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T03:15:42.583" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T03:15:42.583" Title="How can I mitigate some of the downtime between player's turns?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6714" CreationDate="2012-02-25T07:30:57.977" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Cycling is an activated ability that you can only use while the card is in your hand. Casting a spell requires that you pay a cards mana cost printed in the upper right of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.27a Cycling is an activated ability that functions only while the card with cycling is in a player’s hand. “Cycling [cost]” means “[Cost], Discard this card: Draw a card.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.1 A card's mana cost is indicated by the mana symbols at the top of the card. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.1a The mana cost of an object represents what a player must spend from his or her mana pool to cast a card. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T07:43:37.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-02-25T07:37:15.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of those cards have received errata in the official Oracle. If you visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; and look up any of those old cards, you can see the new wording for it. Many creatures gained subtypes, so it's worth checking into. For example, Llanowar Elves went from &quot;Summon Elves&quot; to &quot;Creature - Elf Druid&quot;. Also, all Interrupts becames Instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you'll find that all those walls will likely have Defender in the Oracle ruling :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2491" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T07:37:15.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-02-25T07:37:30.010" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, these cards are MtG cards with the type Creature. A cards official wording is what currently appears in the Oracle Online reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Summon (Obsolete)&#xA;  Older creature cards were printed with “Summon [creature type]” on their type lines. All such cards have received errata in the Oracle card reference to say “Creature — [creature type].” (Many of these cards’ creature types have also been updated.) See Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1723" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T00:57:29.567" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T00:57:29.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2012-02-25T08:05:20.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the apparent passing of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/86472/item/1945427#item1945427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;designer&lt;/a&gt;, my guess is that the copyright would revert to his estate (probably his wife). This isn't the time or place to be asking her to release it to the public domain though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that at least two places have the out of print game for sale, although I cannot vouch for the authenticity of the products they are selling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geekstore.php3?action=viewitem&amp;amp;itemid=341233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG Marketplace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nobleknight.com/ProductDetailSearch.asp_Q_ProductID_E_7423_A_InventoryID_E_2147738913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Noble Knight&lt;/a&gt; this appears to be a sale house middleman like CardShark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T08:05:20.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2012-02-25T08:46:38.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've already hinted at the most successful method, at least in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll relate it by an example.&#xA;In Supremacy, the original was &quot;On your turn, do steps 1 and 2, then any three of steps 3-8&quot; (I might have the numbers wrong; I sold my Supremacy set years ago)&#xA;The revised sequence of play in the revised and expanded game is everyone does steps 1 &amp;amp; 2 simultaneously, then in each of the other steps, those doing that step roll for initiative, and act in rolled order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sequential play of each step reduces the wait between players, and preserves a sense of simultaneity, without actually having simultaneous play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star Fleet Battles, and the Impulse chart is another variation on this mode, as is Civilization/Advanced Civilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other common ways include limiting which steps can be taken on one's turn, and some form of timing mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Galaxy Trucker, you have only a couple minutes to finish building your ship after the first person declares theirs done; first one done flips the egg-timer... and calls stop when it runs out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In chess, it's often played with a chess clock, and the game is lost if one is in check or one has run out of time on the chess clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original Supremacy rules, you don't get to do all the steps. This limited your turn time by reducing how long it took to resolve your turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other useful tool for reducing down time is useful rules summary cards with the most common information on them. The biggest factor in slowing down many a game is rulebook referencing; by elimination of the need to go to the rulebook by an effective and clear summary card, one reduces the tendency to look in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other item you hinted at in the question is the &quot;reaction&quot; effect. By having something that you get to do during the opponent turn, one tends to be more attentive to the opponent's turn, and not notice the downtime as much, despite not actually reducing the downtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-25T08:46:38.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6645" CreationDate="2012-02-26T02:09:39.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wasn't in the rules pdf, but it was within the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/bpu/butnrulz.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online rule book&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all the dice are matched, the round is a draw. If one player has more dice than the other, and all the dice which can be tied for low are tied, then the player who has more dice goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T02:09:39.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6723" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-26T02:51:14.693" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T02:51:14.693" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T02:51:14.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6724" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-26T02:51:14.693" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T02:51:14.693" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T02:51:14.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6725" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-26T03:03:18.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr112b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paris Mulligan&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is the current official mulligan rule used for tournaments in &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;magic-the-gathering&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:48:12.793" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:48:12.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6726" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-26T03:03:18.660" Score="0" Body="Do/Start Over, from Magic: the Gathering, to throw away your starting hand and redraw a new starting hand. Borrowed from the golfing term with the same name." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-12T17:48:12.793" LastActivityDate="2020-01-12T17:48:12.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6527" CreationDate="2012-02-26T05:21:29.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Maverick brand of playing cards (U.S. Playing Card Co.) is one example that sometimes has 2 jokers that simply say, &quot;Maverick&quot; on them and two that show the logo.  Each design is in red on one and blue on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge, there's no standard for ranking jokers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2545" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T05:21:29.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6424" CreationDate="2012-02-26T07:24:09.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would estimate between 60%-70%. The best strategy to use when attempting to survive for 70 days, is to try to avoid wounds. If the wounds that the Barbarian Prince receives are ever 1 less than his Endurance (fall unconscious), or greater than or equal to his Endurance you lose the game. This basically means that we need to avoid combat at all costs. The best way to achieve that is to hideout in a relatively safe location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;North of the Tragoth River&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that is necessary to avoid combat is to cross the river. If you don't, at the end of &lt;strong&gt;each day&lt;/strong&gt;, just before your evening meal you have a 50% chance (4/6) of being attacked by &lt;strong&gt;Mercenary Royal Guardsmen&lt;/strong&gt; (e002). This encounter deals you on average about 1.71-1.55 wounds (depending upon if you Negotiate/Evade/Fight), and because it occurs about 50% of the time it also prevents you from Healing Wounds (r222) about 15% of the time. This is in addition to the normal event for the day that might prevent healing if combat or an escape occurs. If we stay North of the Tragoth River we will heal less than 0.85 wounds on average, but we will receive 0.86 (1/2 of 1.71) wounds on average plus any additional damage from other encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Crossing the River&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I will fill in the percentages of crossing the river without dying at a later time. It is a little difficult to write up all the possibilities, because the strategy changes slightly based upon where you start)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Getting to the Mountains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get across the river, you need to head to the nearest mountain hex. Depending upon where you start, you should head to a different mountain range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ogon (0101): Head to 0103 mountain hex.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;0701: Head to 0703, Barrier Peaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ruins of Jakor Keep (0901): Head to 0703 Barrier Peaks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1301: The worst starting position, head to 0703 or south to 1204.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weshor (1501): Head south or west to the nearest mountain hex.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1801: You should already be in the mountains after crossing the river.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hiding in the (safe) Mountains&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to receive wounds in the game, is through events and through combat. All events including combat are a function of the terrain that the Barbarian Prince is either resting in, or the terrain he was trying to move into before getting lost. Therefore, to minimize wounds, we only need to examine the likelihood of getting into combat for all 36 possible events for a terrain type and the amount of damage that you are likely to receive. Particular attention needs to be paid to encounters that prevent the Barbarian Prince from escaping (r220e), because escaping is one of the best tools for avoiding damage. Escaping is effective 50% of the time, but causes the prince's party to flee to a random adjacent hex (that isn't across a river). What is nice about this is, as long as we don't rest in the random hex we fled into, but instead travel back into the mountain hex then we will roll for an event on the relatively safe mountain encounter chart. I have included some of the safer terrains, and their percentage chance for combat, and percentage chance for a deadly inescapable combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Countryside: 10.74% combat, 2.83% lethal* (3x Wolves, 1x Goblin Keep)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Forest: 10.01% combat, 1.54% lethal* (1x Wolves, 1x Spectre) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hills: 6.11% combat, 0.79% lethal* (1x Wolves, 1x Dragon)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mountains: 2.82% combat, 0.39% lethal (1x Goblin Keep)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Note: Forest, Countryside, and Hills all have at least one Great Hunting Cat encounter that prevents the victim from escaping. I didn't include this within the lethal calculation, because it doesn't occur that often for most terrains and with a combat encounter percentage of 10% or less you will usually be healed up enough to survive the encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wrapping it All Up&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can make it to the mountains, you only have to survive the remaining days. This will usually mean that you will be escaping from combats (if they occur), and then attempting to travel back into the mountains to rest on subsequent turns. You will likely be suffering from starvation for much of the game, but since starvation only affects Combat Skill and Carrying Capacity (not escape chances), it shouldn't have much of an effect if you are only trying to survive. To figure the chances of not having a lethal encounter after X days, just take 1-(lethal encounter%) and raise it to the DAYS power. The result is about 76% chance. If you figure in the river crossing, the time to get to the mountains, the true survival percentage is probably a little bit lower. I would estimate a 60%-70% chance of surviving (with the above strategy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-10T23:44:47.907" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T23:44:47.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6732" CreationDate="2012-02-26T11:44:02.403" Score="9" ViewCount="13792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you supposed to use an arrow → or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pe8→Q&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pe8Q&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where 'P' is the piece being moved (Pawn) , 'Q' is promotion to (Queen), 'e8' is the file ('e') and rank ('8')?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="754" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-26T15:12:06.410" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T00:49:09.193" Title="What is the proper Algebraic Notation for a pawn being promoted?" Tags="|chess|notation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6715" CreationDate="2012-02-26T13:06:02.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly not, &lt;strong&gt;if and only if&lt;/strong&gt; R&amp;amp;D's Secret Lair is in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vm6rY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I was just about to correct &quot;in play&quot; to &quot;on the battlefield&quot; there, but actually I don't have to, since I have R&amp;amp;D's Secret Lair in play :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-02-26T13:06:02.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6729" CreationDate="2012-02-26T14:34:29.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algebraic_notation_%28chess%29#Pawn_promotion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pawn Promotion page&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a pawn moves to the last rank and promotes, the piece promoted to is indicated at the end of the move notation, for example: e8Q (promoting to queen). Sometimes an equals sign (=) or parentheses are used: e8=Q or e8(Q), but neither format is a FIDE standard. (An equals sign is also sometimes used to indicate the offer of a draw when written on the scoresheet next to a move, but this is not part of algebraic notation.)&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJ9fc.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;4&lt;/a&gt; In Portable Game Notation (PGN), pawn promotion is always indicated using the equals sign format (e8=Q).&#xA;  In older books, pawn promotions can be found using a forward slash: e8/Q.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/fide/handbook.html?id=125&amp;amp;view=article&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;World Chess Federation (FIDE)&lt;/a&gt; handbook, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C.12&lt;/strong&gt; - In the case of the promotion of a pawn, the actual pawn move is indicated, followed immediately by the first letter of the new piece. Examples: d8Q, f8N, b1B, g1R.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in the same section, it is not necessary to denote the piece that is being moved if it is a Pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessclub.com/help/notation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Standard Algebraic Notation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A pawn promotion move has =Q =N =R or =B appended to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Standard algebraic notation (SAN) is the official notation of the FIDE which must be used in all recognized international competition involving human players. Concerning computer chess, SAN is a representation standard for chess moves inside the Portable Game Notation standard using the ASCII Latin alphabet, and should be supported as default notation by all modern chess programs and their user interfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also quite possible that the OP was wondering about the use of → (arrow) or not with Figurine Algebraic Notation (FAN). Unfortunately, U+2654 or &amp;#9812; and other chess glyphs do not always appear as they should &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yJ9fc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;. This is most likely due to the default fonts used in most browsers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T03:20:31.073" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T03:20:31.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6729" CreationDate="2012-02-26T18:20:56.907" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;FIDE is not the arbiter of chess-notation.  &lt;strong&gt;By far the most common way to express promotion using algebraic notation is &lt;code&gt;e8=Q&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(note that you do not write &lt;code&gt;P&lt;/code&gt; for pawn, only the space it moves to)&lt;/em&gt;.  This is also the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; style supported by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portable_Game_Notation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PGN&lt;/a&gt;, the most widely used format for recording games on a computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;e8/Q&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;e8(Q)&lt;/code&gt; are also sometimes used, mostly by old-timers or old books.  &lt;strike&gt;I have &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; seen &lt;code&gt;e8Q&lt;/code&gt; used&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;em&gt;(I guess I&lt;/em&gt; have &lt;em&gt;seen it, I just never really noticed :) see below)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Edit]&lt;/strong&gt; By request, I did a small sampling of the literature I have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the 22 chess books I own, 14 use algebraic while 8 use descriptive &lt;em&gt;(primarily because &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3977/does-anyone-use-the-p-k4-type-of-chess-notation-anymore&quot;&gt;they are older books&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt;.  Of the 14 algebraic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 use the &lt;code&gt;e8=Q&lt;/code&gt; style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 use the &lt;code&gt;e8/Q&lt;/code&gt; style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 uses the &lt;code&gt;e8(Q)&lt;/code&gt; style&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1 uses the &lt;code&gt;e8Q&lt;/code&gt; style&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another 2 use the related symbolic style &lt;code&gt;e8♛&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it looks as those &lt;code&gt;e8Q&lt;/code&gt; is not as unpopular as I originally thought, but &lt;code&gt;e8=Q&lt;/code&gt; is still overwhelmingly the most popular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T00:49:09.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-27T03:28:35.017" Score="6" ViewCount="12908" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to reduce the level of chance associated with the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greed_%28dice_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greed&lt;/a&gt; (also known as Farkle and Zilch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone looked into this or have a source that can give some good stats to answer the following questions.&#xA;At what score should I stop rolling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I have 1 die left?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I have 2 dice left?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: ... to maximise my score and minimise risk. Assume that I've entered the game already (scored 500).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: when is it worth rolling a single die to try to get a re-roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T03:24:06.280" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T19:40:01.303" Title="Statistically when to stop rolling in Greed" Tags="|statistics|farkle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6733" CreationDate="2012-02-27T04:13:18.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Greed (a.k.a. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farkle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Farkle&lt;/a&gt;) has an extensive amount of &lt;a href=&quot;http://graciesdad.wordpress.com/2009/08/30/farkle-odds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;statistical analysis&lt;/a&gt; done on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you have updated your question, here is my updated answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to maximize your score, what you need to figure out is what is your expected score if you risk rolling, compared to your score if you choose not to roll. So, the first thing you need to know, is what is your expected number of points you will earn for rolling 6-dice. Below is a chart of the different possible Patterns (6-of-a-Kind, 5-of-a-Kind, etc.), the possible ways of &lt;strong&gt;ORD&lt;/strong&gt; 'ering those particular patterns (which are all the same combination), the number of &lt;strong&gt;DIF&lt;/strong&gt; 'erent patterns that can be made with other numbers from 1-6, and the Total permutations (which should add up to 6^6=46656).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+-----------+----+---+-----+&#xA;|Pattern    |ORD |DIF|Total|&#xA;+-----------+----+---+-----+&#xA;|a,a,a,a,a,a|   1|  6|    6| 6-Kind&#xA;|a,a,a,a,a,b|   6| 30|  180| 5-Kind (possible '1' or '5' score singles)&#xA;|a,a,a,a,b,b|  15| 30|  450| 4-Kind (possible '1' or '5' score singles) &#xA;|a,a,a,a,b,c|  30| 60| 1800| 4-Kind (possible '1' or '5' score singles)&#xA;|a,a,a,b,b,b|  20| 15|  300| 2 * 3-Kind&#xA;|a,a,a,b,b,c|  60|120| 7200| 3-Kind (possible '1' or '5' score singles)&#xA;|a,a,a,b,c,d| 120| 60| 7200| 3-Kind (possible '1' or '5' score singles)&#xA;|a,a,b,b,c,c|  90| 20| 1800| 3 Pair&#xA;|a,a,b,b,c,d| 180| 90|16200| (possible farkle, possible '1' or '5' score)&#xA;|a,a,b,c,d,e| 360| 30|10800| (possible '1' or '5' score)&#xA;|a,b,c,d,e,f| 720|  1|  720| straight&#xA;+-----------+----+---+-----+&#xA;|      Total|1602|462|46656|&#xA;+-----------+----+---+-----+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't separate these individual patterns by how much they actually score, because it would be way to big of a table. The table would have to differentiate from each different kind of 3-of-a-Kind, and possible '1' and '5' single die scores. I did separate them when running a calculation of the average (total points/permutations). The only important information from that computer analysis is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1080/46656 : The odds that when you roll 6 dice, you cannot score anything. (Farkle)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;388.033 : The average number of points that you make on your first roll of 6 dice, if you score.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the above information, you can examine all possible outcomes of rolling a single die, and look at the risk (how many points you will lose if you fail to score) versus the amount of points that you will gain. You can think of this as you would any sort of gambling question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Question: Imagine a game where you pay $X, and you roll a die. If you roll a '1' you win $100 plus your original bet ($X), if you roll a '5' you win $50+$X, if you roll anything else you lose your bet ($X). How much would you pay to play this game? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Answer: Anything up to $37.50. Until that point, you expect to win more money than you lose. The sum of your losses multiplied by their probability of happening (-37.5 * (4/6) = 25 = ((100*(1/6)+(50*(1/6)) is equal to the sum of your winnings multiplied by their probability of happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) +$100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) -$37.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) -$37.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) -$37.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) +$50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) -$37.5&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets add up all the possibilities for Greed assuming you have &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; points already, and you intend to roll six dice if you win the single die roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|Outcome              |Odds the Outcome Occurs | Points *Odds |&#xA;+---------------------+------------------------+--------------+&#xA;|Lose rolling one die |4/6                     | -4/6*(X)     |&#xA;|Win  50 +Avg six dice|(1/6)*(46656-1080)/46656|(AVG+50)*Odds |&#xA;|Win 100 +Avg six dice|(1/6)*(46656-1080)/46656|(AVG+100)*Odds|&#xA;|Lose rolling six dice|(2/6)*(1080/46656)      | -(5/648)*(X) |&#xA;+---------------------+------------------------+--------------+&#xA;                Total | 1.0                    |              |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Time for Some Algebra&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solve for the sum of all the above outcomes equals zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(add each line above together)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 = -(4/6) * X - (5/648) * X + (2*AVG+50+100)*(1/6) * (46656-1080)/46656)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(multiply the first X term by 108 to get the same denominator for both X terms)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 = -(432/648) * X - (5/648) * X + 150.771547&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Add X term to both sides, simplify two added terms)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(437/648) * X = 150.771547&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Solve for X)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X = (648/437) * (150.771547) = 223.6 (approximately)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since scores are always a multiple of 50, you should stop rolling when you hit 250 points. I leave the the 2 dice question as an exercise for the OP. You should have all the tools necessary to calculate it (I will check your work if you attempt to answer it. If you do attempt to answer it, post the question in a new thread linking back to this thread, and explain your work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Optimal Strategy for Multiplayer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another more difficult question to answer is what is the optimal strategy to win. The calculations for this are more complicated, because you have to take into account how likely the opponent is to win before you (their likely score before your next turn, etc.) I have no doubt that a nearly optimal Greed computer program can be created for (two players). As you increase the number of players though, the problem gets exponentially more difficult. You might want to check the links in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6680/can-an-optimal-strategy-for-roll-through-the-ages-be-created-for-two-player-game&quot;&gt;post that talks about how optimal Yathzee&lt;/a&gt; for one player was created, and how the two player version is pretty close to optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T05:29:34.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6736" CreationDate="2012-02-27T11:13:44.190" Score="5" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Blood Ties, what counts as a room boundary for the purpose of Horror Tests and Item Abilities? (e.g. Elder Sign)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my girlfriend raises a zombie in the graveyard. Do all my investigators out in the open have to take a horror test, or only those in the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, Gloria Grant is surrounded by 4 zombies, all within 1 range. Does her successful Elder Sign roll drive all the zombies back, or only those that are on her tile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T11:28:17.617" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T13:22:26.307" Title="Room Boundaries in Blood Ties" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6735" CreationDate="2012-02-27T12:31:53.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should go by the definition in the rule book on page 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Room&lt;/strong&gt; - An area of the map tile that has a name and is separated from the other rooms by solid brown walls, doors, or the edge of the map tile. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise a Zombie in the graveyard: Only those in the Graveyard &lt;strong&gt;room&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a monster enters (or is placed) in an investigator's room (or vise versa), the investigator must immediately make an attribute test called a HORROR TEST. ... If multiple investigators are in the room, the must each make a horror test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elder Sign: although poorly worded (the Elder Sign rules text), all monsters in the &lt;strong&gt;room&lt;/strong&gt; are moved two &lt;strong&gt;spaces&lt;/strong&gt; away from her. (Keep in mind that a map &lt;em&gt;tile&lt;/em&gt; may have as many as 3 rooms on it, you cannot use the terms interchangeably)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tile&lt;/strong&gt; - A single piece of punchboard that contains between one and three rooms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/strong&gt; - &amp;quot;Pass: The keeper must move each monster in your room 2 spaces away from you.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T13:22:26.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6738" CreationDate="2012-02-27T14:03:37.720" Score="5" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't find this clearly in the rules. Do I need to take a second horror test when a new monster enters the room, even if the investigators have already taken a horror test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see this leading to a large number of horror tests in succession if Call of the Night is used on multiple monsters at once, all of which move into the same room, containing multiple investigators. (e.g. 3 zombies and a Mi-Go enter the room containing 2 investigators =&gt; 8 horror tests)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T15:52:47.670" Title="Horror Tests with Multiple Monsters and Multiple Investigators" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6737" CreationDate="2012-02-27T14:43:09.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will make a total of 8 horror tests. One for each monster that enters an investigator's room, and for each investigator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot;&gt;Rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 13), within the section covering Horror Tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a monster enters (or is placed in) an investigator’s room (or vice versa), the investigator must immediately make an attribute test called a HORROR TEST. He does so by making a Willpower test modified by the monster’s horror rating (the blue number at the top of its monster token). If he fails this test, he takes one horror (see “Damage and Horror” &#xA;  on page 24).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If &lt;strong&gt;multiple investigators&lt;/strong&gt; are in the room, they &lt;strong&gt;must each&lt;/strong&gt; make a horror test (the keeper chooses the order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the investigator leaves the monster’s room and then re-enters the room, he must make a another horror test. He &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; make a horror test every time he enters the monster’s room (and &lt;strong&gt;every time the monster enters his&lt;/strong&gt;). In this way, a monster that is chasing an investigator will trigger a horror test each time the monster enters the investigator’s room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, at the start of an investigator’s turn, a monster is in the same room as him, the investigator does not need to make a horror test. If a monster leaves an investigators room and then re-enters it on the same turn, he does not need to make a horror test against it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An investigator only makes a maximum of one horror test per monster per turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Horror tests always interrupt the current step of the player’s turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-02-27T15:52:47.670" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T15:52:47.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6741" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:35:06.583" Score="46" ViewCount="12697" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6729/what-is-the-proper-algebraic-notation-for-a-pawn-being-promoted&quot;&gt;What is the proper Algebraic Notation for a pawn being promoted?&lt;/a&gt; made me wonder whether pawn promotion to rook or bishop ever happens.  The only time I can think this might happen is when promotion to a queen would provide stalemate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other situations where one might choose a rook or bishop over a queen (or knight)?  Secondly, has this ever been a case where promotion to a rook/bishop gave an advantage in an actual game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2021-10-24T18:18:44.290" Title="Is pawn promotion to rook or bishop something that is seen in play?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6739" CreationDate="2012-02-27T17:54:09.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen situations where under-promotion to a rook or bishop has been a key move to prevent a stalemate.  Without going into two much detail, its possible for the opponent to place his King in a place whereby your pawn being promoted stalemates him, but an under-promotion to a rook or a bishop leaves a square unthreatened for the opponent's king to move into.  Unfortunately, the situations I've seen where in semi-casual or academic play, and I have no citations involving players of note or repute in these scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-02-27T17:54:09.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6739" CreationDate="2012-02-27T18:25:24.727" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under-promotion to bishop/rook happens from time-to-time.  I've only seen it in three cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pawn will be captured regardless of what it's promoted to, and the promoting player wants to be cocky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's checkmate with just a bishop or just a rook, and the promoting player wants to be cocky &lt;em&gt;(in those cases, a queen would mate also)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promoting to a queen is stalemate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of those, the only one that's interesting is #3.  It's extremely rare, but &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; happened in tournament games.  For example, in the game &lt;strong&gt;Ruben - Sultan Khan, 1930&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ut3i.png&quot; alt=&quot;(image)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing &lt;code&gt;1. f8=Q&lt;/code&gt; leaves Black in stalemate, but &lt;code&gt;1. f8=R&lt;/code&gt; does not &lt;em&gt;(though &lt;code&gt;1. Kf6!&lt;/code&gt; would have been better :) )&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another example (&lt;strong&gt;Vasiukov - Tukmakov, 1976&lt;/strong&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FurXh.png&quot; alt=&quot;(image)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White, in a last-ditch effort, played &lt;code&gt;1. Rg1+&lt;/code&gt; -  &lt;code&gt;1.. hxg1=Q&lt;/code&gt; would be stalemate!  Black responded &lt;code&gt;1.. hxg1=R! 0-1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under-promotion to knight is more common (though still very rare) than to rook/bishop because, unlike rooks/bishops, the knight has the possibility to attack squares the queen cannot, which can sometimes be necessary to win material or force checkmate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="175" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T13:59:47.253" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T13:59:47.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6747" CreationDate="2012-02-28T00:01:25.263" Score="6" ViewCount="5208" Body="&lt;p&gt;The symbols for Trading Post show a one gold symbol above the symbols for the resources.  Does this indicate that playing the card gives you a gold (in addition to getting a discount from it), or is it just supposed to remind you that you now only have to pay one gold for the resources shown?  We've always played that you get a gold for playing it, but the rules don't seem conclusive either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T06:00:22.803" Title="Do you get a gold when playing Trading Post?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6742" CreationDate="2012-02-28T00:10:14.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't receive any money for playing Trading Post.  It's just a reminder that one gold is your new cost for resources purchased from your neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="32" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T03:47:50.973" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T03:47:50.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2012-02-28T03:13:47.643" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum acceptable downtime will depend primarily on how much analysis is required (and possible) for a player's turn. For example, downtime in Power Grid can get quite high during the final few turns. I've had to wait as long as 20 minutes in one 6-player game. Yet, that didn't bother me, because the game state wasn't going to change dramatically before it got to me (that is, options will not open up for me, they will only be taken away) and there's a good amount of mental arithmetic involved in figuring out the optimal placement. To contrast that with, say, Carcassonne, I once had to wait close to 5 minutes for a turn due to one analysis paralysis prone player, and that was torturous. Even though we draw our tiles at the end of a turn to speed play, there just weren't that many options, so it was extremely boring. This would also be true for games where the board state will change dramatically between turns, so foreplanning is not worthwhile (Fluxx is a good example of this - any downtime that's not measured in seconds feels long for that game, because there's not anything worthwhile you can do when it's not your turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along those lines, my personal experience is that the best way to mitigate downtime in a game with indirect interaction is to give players enough to think about when it's not their turn, either about the current turn or planning ahead for the future. Recognize, however, that not every game is (or should be) a deep, brain-burning game, so this is not to say that the answer is to add complexity; perhaps a better way to state this point is to ensure that the downtime is proportional to the depth of the game. You don't want people to run out of game-related things to think about, because you lose them once their minds start to wander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your game has any kind of direct interaction (e.g. negotiation, trading), then there's really no such thing as downtime, since all players are involved at all times. If downtime is a concern and your design would lend itself well to a direct interaction mechanic, that would probably be the way to go. Even something like a bluffing component can go a long way toward helping keep players engaged; for example, in hidden money games like Power Grid or Imperial, I greatly enjoy trying to project more (or less) wealth than I actually have, getting inside my opponents' heads to try to get them to do what I'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T03:13:47.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6746" CreationDate="2012-02-28T04:38:36.017" Score="19" ViewCount="65340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to read the Wikipedia article but it is too confusing on what the current accepted standard is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a pawn makes it to the last row can they stay as a pawn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a pawn makes it to the last row can they be promoted to a piece that hasn't been removed from the board e.g. 2 queens or 3 knights on the board?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the last question is yes, do people normally carry around multiple sets with the same pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="461" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-04T14:29:44.240" LastActivityDate="2017-09-01T15:53:18.650" Title="Restrictions around promoting a pawn" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6745" CreationDate="2012-02-28T05:40:18.460" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a Pawn must be promoted to a Knight, Bishop, Rook, or Queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, pawn promotion isn't limited to captured pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that normal people don't carry around multiple sets of pieces, probably only tournaments. Most likely tournaments keep far more queens around than other pieces since promotion is usually to a queen (99% of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wikipedia page says this (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Promotion is a chess rule describing the transformation of a pawn that reaches its eighth rank into the player's choice of a queen, knight, rook, or bishop of the same color (Just &amp;amp; Burg 2003:16). The new piece replaces the pawn on the same square and is part of the move. &lt;strong&gt;Promotion is not limited to pieces that have already been captured&lt;/strong&gt; (Schiller 2003:18–19). &lt;strong&gt;Every pawn that reaches its eighth rank must be promoted&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://main.uschess.org/content/blogcategory/131/369/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;USCF's Rulebook: The Official Rules of Chess, 5th Edition (2003)&lt;/a&gt; that they are referencing though, it will cost you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FIDE has this in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/FIDE/handbook/LawsOfChess.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.7e. When a pawn reaches the rank furthest from its starting position &lt;strong&gt;it must be exchanged&lt;/strong&gt; as part of the same move on the same square for a new queen, rook, bishop or knight of the same colour. &lt;strong&gt;The player’s choice is not restricted to pieces that have been captured previously&lt;/strong&gt;. This exchange of a pawn for another piece is called ‘promotion’ and the effect of the new piece is immediate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.12 b. A player may stop the clocks only in order to seek the arbiter’s assistance, for&#xA;example when promotion has taken place and &lt;strong&gt;the piece required is not available&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T07:18:18.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6742" CreationDate="2012-02-28T06:00:22.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not receive any coins. It is indicating a discount. You only pay {1} Coin instead of the normal {2} from the neighbor in the direction to which the arrow points. You can contrast this with the &lt;strong&gt;Tavern&lt;/strong&gt; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rprod.com/files/7W_RULES_EN_COLOR_LIGHT.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;7-Wonder's rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tavern Icon&lt;/strong&gt; - the card is worth the amount of coins pictured, the coins are taken from the bank only once, when the card is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trading Post Icon&lt;/strong&gt; - starting on the turn following the one in which this building was constructed, the player purchases raw materials from the neighboring city indicated by the arrow for 1 coin instead of 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification for the Eastern Trading Post, the Western Trading Post and the Marketplace: arrows show to which neighboring city or cities to which the discount applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9wVCT.png&quot; alt=&quot;7-Wonders Trading Post&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T06:00:22.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6745" CreationDate="2012-02-28T07:43:12.250" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pawn promotion is mandatory and not limited to the pieces that have been captured.  User1873's answer covers the details well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wanted to answer the last part of your question in depth.  It is not necessary for people to carry around extra sets, although many players and almost all teams will have multiple sets available to them at a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the vast majority of the cases, an extra set is not needed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the time pawn promotion (or the immediate threat of it) will lead directly to the opponent conceding.  One you reach a certain level of play, it is not fruitful to play out a game when you are down a queen.  In a tournament setting when you may be expected to play 4+ games a day, you can conserve your energy by conceding.  Grab a bite to eat, take a walk and come back stronger for the next game.  I've competed in both wrestling and chess tournaments.  While there is little threat of physical injury in a chess tournament, they are both exhausting to go through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the game continues, odds are that the queens will have been traded off earlier which means you have one available.  Just the nature of getting a pawn queened will mean that the game has gone on awhile, and is fairly even.  Queens tend to get exchanged.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the queens are still on the board, the next best thing is a rook, flipped upside down.  This was used quite frequently when I was playing and I would expect that it is still a common convention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your queen and both rooks are still on the board and you need to promote a pawn, then you truly do need an extra queen!  If you don't have one available at a tournament, there should be plenty available nearby to borrow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T07:43:12.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-28T12:41:39.133" Score="7" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://siadek.com/lifeboat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lifeboat&lt;/a&gt; game the rules when you are unconscious specify that :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other players could swap their position with yours or steal your cards&#xA;  and you can't defend yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But nothing is specified for the cases where you are dead and still in the boat. There is a note allowing other players to steal your cards but nothing about position swapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the rules it seem to be disallowed (as it isn't specifically allowed), but does anyone have experience with either variant? Is there a FAQ with this info somewhere? The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gorillaboardgames.com/files/Lifeboatfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; is really short and the extensions don't add any details about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="602" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-06T08:36:16.663" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T08:36:16.663" Title="Can a player swap position with a dead body in lifeboat?" Tags="|lifeboat|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6783" CreationDate="2012-02-28T12:49:06.600" Score="3" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am design several games for students. The purpose of these games is to encourage the students to discuss various topics related to their lessons during their study hall period or at home. If the games are interesting enough, this motivates them to do the work without outside help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not so familiar with games and only know of two ways to deliver questions to players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players land on a space and the space contains the question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players draw a card and the card contains the question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other types of game mechanisms that can deliver questions for players to discuss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastEditorUserId="2552" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T23:09:12.227" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T21:43:28.757" Title="What are some methods for delivering questions to players?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2012-02-28T12:53:54.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/26777/lifeboat-rules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unconciousness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People can take from you or trade places as normal but you cannot fight back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree it's not stated in the section &amp;quot;death&amp;quot;, but I see no reason why it shouldn't be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2553" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T12:53:54.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6749" CreationDate="2012-02-28T14:40:20.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The FAQ you linked to I believe covers this. Since fights are started by a character refusing a seat exchange, a dead person's seat is just taken from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do I start a fight?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fights can only be started by a character refusing a mugging &lt;strong&gt;or a seat exchange&lt;/strong&gt;. Incapacitated characters (unconscious &lt;strong&gt;or dead&lt;/strong&gt;) cannot start a fight, join a fight or have a fight fought on their behalf. If somebody wants to take something from them, it just happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T14:40:20.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2012-02-28T19:34:07.583" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Artifacts are the way to go in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPhyrexian%20Revoker%5d&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; shut down COP:Red, and the Revoker itself can deal damage (and isn't affected by the Circle of Protection in the first place). &#xA;These cards are also good against other stuff like planeswalkers 'n 'at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2557" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T13:44:47.540" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:44:47.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6750" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:08:06.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe the original question is &quot;overly broad&quot;; I'll answer a related question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I implement academic drills into existing games?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games, such as &quot;Jeopardy!&quot;, &quot;Who Wants to be a Millionaire&quot;, &quot;Are You Smarter...&quot;, etc. are already set-up for academic Q &amp;amp; A. We can also adapt other games to fit this requirement. Off the top of my head:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monopoly&lt;/strong&gt; - properties are always auctioned (not bought), with the winner being the first player to correctly answer a question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Egyptian Rat Screw&lt;/strong&gt; (played with a standard deck of cards): whenever a &quot;double&quot; or a &quot;sandwich&quot; occurs, the winner is decided by Q &amp;amp; A (not by who slaps first/fastest)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fore more serious games like &lt;strong&gt;Agricola, Power Grid, and Puerto Rico&lt;/strong&gt;, you could require students to pass the &quot;first player&quot; marker left/right if they fail a Q&amp;amp;A check. Of course, if they all fail, then the marker could work its way back to the original owner... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:08:06.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6755" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:41:01.587" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T20:41:01.587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:41:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6756" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:41:01.587" Score="0" Body="A heavy group is one that is too important to sacrifice, but which requires so much defence that defending it will result in a significant loss." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T20:41:01.587" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:41:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6757" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:43:20.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beginners usually learn to evaluate the life/death status of particular eyeshapes (3-in-a-row is dead, 4-in-a-row is alive) and to identify common shapes by name, like a Tiger's Mouth or a Bamboo Joint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ (1) Tiger's Mouth, (2) Bamboo Joint, (3) Empty Triangle, (4) Table&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;$$ ..X.....OO. &#xA;$$ .X.1.......&#xA;$$ ........O2.&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;$$ .XX........&#xA;$$ .3......4O.&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;$$ .......O.O.&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T21:35:04.100" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T21:35:04.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6758" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:43:20.150" Score="0" Body="Shape is a very broad Go term. It usually refers to special configurations of stones. A shape is &quot;good&quot; when it is efficient in its purpose." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T21:35:30.980" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T21:35:30.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6759" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:45:19.787" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T20:45:19.787" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:45:19.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6760" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-02-28T20:45:19.787" Score="0" Body="Overconcentration refers to groups that consist of more stones than needed for their purpose, meaning low efficiency." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-02-28T20:45:19.787" LastActivityDate="2012-02-28T20:45:19.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6763" CreationDate="2012-02-28T22:02:19.347" Score="9" ViewCount="6464" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Citadels, Ann has the crown and Bill chooses the king. The assassin kills the king. Who keeps the crown at the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastEditorUserId="487" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T06:34:25.387" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T14:36:31.007" Title="Citadels: Does the crown switch hands if the king is killed?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16781" CreationDate="2012-02-28T23:20:59.497" Score="12" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any dictionaries specific to the subject of board game design or board game culture? This would contain words describing elements found in board games or used by designers or players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T02:13:07.533" Title="Board game design dictionary" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6761" CreationDate="2012-02-29T00:51:14.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The King gets the crown when his character is revealed whether he is alive at that point or not.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise the king would be exceptionally weak IMHO as whomever had the crown could continually pick the assassin, assassinate the king, keep the crown, and first pick the assassin again. You can argue that they should be assassinating other characters besides the king, but seeing as there are fewer yellow districts than any other color the King needs all the help he can get...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T14:36:31.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6766" CreationDate="2012-02-29T01:25:13.777" Score="27" ViewCount="27821" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm currently writing a strategy guide for magic as my pet project, and I'm trying to explain decks with multiple colors. Here's what I have so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dual color decks are useful because they allow you to take advantage&#xA;of the best of 2 different colors instead of just 1. This allows you&#xA;to minimize the weaknesses a mono-colored deck might normally have.&#xA;For example, red decks usually have trouble dealing with&#xA;enchantments, blue decks tend to have pretty bad creatures, green&#xA;decks tend to be fairly bad with removal spells, etc. When&#xA;combined with another color, most of these disadvantages are&#xA;drastically reduced as you can use cards from each color to compensate for the&#xA;other's weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some decks also have more than 2 colors, although they are much less&#xA;common. With 3 colors your deck will have plenty of options to reduce&#xA;the shortcomings of any individual color as odds are there's a card in&#xA;at least one of the other colors you're playing that will fill that&#xA;gap nicely. The downside of a tri-color deck is that it's substantially&#xA;more difficult to get the mana you need to play the cards in your&#xA;hand. This means you'll need to devote more of your deck to cards that&#xA;can generate mana of multiple colors, which detracts from your overall&#xA;focus of getting cards out onto the field that actually win the game&#xA;for you. Tricolor decks often include green because it is the best color for generating&#xA;mana in its own and other colors, making it great support for the rest&#xA;of the deck. These decks often rely on tricolor spells for finishers as they are&#xA;often extremely powerful to make up for the difficulty of casting them,&#xA;to the point where some can almost win the game on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks with more than 3 colors are extremely rare as there is usually&#xA;relatively little advantage a 4th color will add that couldn't be&#xA;covered by the others, and it is VERY difficult to create a&#xA;successful 4 color mana-base that will let you play all of the cards&#xA;you need to in a timely fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read this, it sounds like I'm saying &amp;quot;Tri-color decks are bad because they're so hard to get to work correctly and people only play them because of powerful gold cards.&amp;quot; However, I'm pretty sure this isn't true and is stemming from my own lack of experience with tri-color decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Why would you want to play a tri-color deck? What advantages does adding the third color often add that makes the deck better than if it only had 2? What should I add to this section of my strategy guide to make it a little more complete/useful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-01-30T17:12:45.107" LastActivityDate="2022-01-30T17:12:45.107" Title="Why would you want to play with a deck that had 3 or more colors in it in Magic? (limited and constructed)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6762" CreationDate="2012-02-29T01:43:39.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one I'm aware of is on boardgamegeek.com...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Glossary&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Glossary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar one for RPGs is on the sister site, RPGGeek.com...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/RPG_Glossary#&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/RPG_Glossary#&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;I include this because many of the terms overlap, and especially for dice, are not in the BGG glossary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T01:43:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2012-02-29T02:21:20.110" Score="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your mana base is the chief constraint, but it's not always as restrictive as you think.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This really depends on the format and your budget, but, sometimes, it's really not &amp;quot;substantially more difficult to get the mana you need to play the cards in your hand&amp;quot; with a three-color deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In something like 20 playtest games with &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/modern-zoo-2011-08-31&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Domain Zoo&lt;/a&gt;, which is (albeit nominally) a five-color deck, I never once got color-screwed. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22Pay%201%20life,%20sacrifice%22%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Zendikar%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fetches&lt;/a&gt;+&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22may%20pay%202%20life%22%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Ravnica%20Block%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shocks&lt;/a&gt; mana base was &lt;em&gt;just that good&lt;/em&gt;. Why did the deck play a fourth color? Because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Confidant&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt;, by itself, was worth it. Why did the deck play &amp;quot;Islands&amp;quot;? To get 1 point of extra damage out of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tribal%20Flames&quot;&gt;Tribal Flames&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How far you can push the color distribution in your deck depends on the particular mana base available to you, and the overall &amp;quot;speed&amp;quot; of the metagame (which determines whether you can afford to devote your early turns to playing tapped lands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zagoth%20Triome&quot;&gt;Zagoth Triome&lt;/a&gt; or color-fixing spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Farseek&quot;&gt;Farseek&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Scars + Innistrad Standard, the distribution of multi-colored lands (one cycle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22two%20or%20fewer%22%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Scars%20of%20Mirrodin%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allied-color &amp;quot;fast&amp;quot; duals&lt;/a&gt; in Scars, one cycle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22unless%20you%20control%22%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Magic%202012%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;allied-color &amp;quot;buddy&amp;quot; duals&lt;/a&gt; in M12, one cycle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22unless%20you%20control%22%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Innistrad%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;enemy-color &amp;quot;buddy&amp;quot; duals&lt;/a&gt; in Innistrad; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt; as the only fetchland) makes a friendly-color three-color mana base comparable to an enemy-color two-color deck's. The reason most tournament decks are playing two allied colors instead is that this lets them cut colored-mana lands to run more utility lands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Drownyard&quot;&gt;Nephalia Drownyard&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moorland%20Haunt&quot;&gt;Moorland Haunt&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kessig%20Wolf%20Run&quot;&gt;Kessig Wolf Run&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt;, which are some of the best ways to add depth and resilience to your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, &lt;strong&gt;it's when you need your lands to do something special that you're most constrained on colors&lt;/strong&gt;. Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valakut%2C%20the%20Molten%20Pinnacle&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt; requires lots of Mountains to operate. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/standard/22491_Taking_Valakut_To_The_Top_4_Of_The_Boston_PTQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Valakut, the deck&lt;/a&gt;, consequently, had a pretty awful mana base for a two-color deck, because most of the cards were green but the deck needed to max out on plain old basic Mountains to do get its combo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dungrove%20Elder&quot;&gt;Dungrove Elder&lt;/a&gt; will want copious Forests regardless of its color distribution. If you pick him in M12 draft but can't force mono-green, it still behooves you to play as many Forests as reasonable if you want to make use of the Elder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Shackles&quot;&gt;Vedalken Shackles&lt;/a&gt; is, sometimes, considered reason enough to go mono-blue all by itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/913&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tron&lt;/a&gt; devotes half its lands to the (colorless) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%20%5BUrza%27s%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Antiquities%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BLand%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urza's lands&lt;/a&gt;, leaving it with very starved for colored mana. Balancing two colors and a ton of colorless lands is actually much harder than getting a working three-color mana base, because there's not a lot of flexibility in how you can pay for your spells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Metagame-hater decks playing lots of non-basic-land hate (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Back%20to%20Basics&quot;&gt;Back to Basics&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruination&quot;&gt;Ruination&lt;/a&gt;) can find it limiting their own mana base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The main benefit is, as you said, access to stronger and more varied cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some prominent historical examples of very different applications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990224013740/thedojo.net/history/thedeck3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Weissman's original archetypal control deck&lt;/a&gt; was a five-color deck. The majority of the cards were blue, but it used the other colors to cast &amp;quot;silver bullet&amp;quot; cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moat&quot;&gt;Moat&lt;/a&gt;, meant to nullify entire strategies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many of the Alara-era Cruel Control decks you're probably thinking of when you talk about tri-color finisher cards were actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/standard/18326_Innovations_Worlds_Cruel_Control_Gifts_Flores_Bucher_and_Gindy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;four-&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/standard/16665_Innovations_Cruel_Control_for_States.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;five-&lt;/a&gt; color decks, in order to run cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Denial&quot;&gt;Wall of Denial&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Celestial%20Purge&quot;&gt;Celestial Purge&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudthresher&quot;&gt;Cloudthresher&lt;/a&gt; -- not quite silver bullets, just efficient answers to the metagame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the Mirage era, World Championship winner Jakub Slemr &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/sideboard/article.asp?x=results/ptworlds97_decks#SLEMR&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;played a black weenie aggro deck that used City of Brass and Gemstone Mine to play all the different-colored &amp;quot;ETB&amp;quot; creatures, which were some of the best weenies in the format&lt;/a&gt;. Of course, this also enabled him to stuff his sideboard with lethal hosers from all colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more recent (2012) example, consider control in Scars + Innistrad Standard. These days, blue-based control decks usually use other colors to supplement their counterspells with strong finishers and removal. Assume you're choosing between U/W, U/B, or W/U/B (&amp;quot;Esper&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black offers a variety of instant-speed spot removal for creatures (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Go%20for%20the%20Throat&quot;&gt;Go for the Throat&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismember&quot;&gt;Dismember&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tragic%20Slip&quot;&gt;Tragic Slip&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Virulent%20Wound&quot;&gt;Virulent Wound&lt;/a&gt;) but only rather slow sweepers (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Black%20Sun%27s%20Zenith&quot;&gt;Black Sun&amp;#39;s Zenith&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%27s%20Finale&quot;&gt;Life&amp;#39;s Finale&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White has superior sweepers (especially &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgment&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;, but also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elesh%20Norn%2C%20Grand%20Cenobite&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn, Grand Cenobite&lt;/a&gt;) and can answer any type of permanent (Oblivion Ring, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Revoke%20Existence&quot;&gt;Revoke Existence&lt;/a&gt;, Celestial Purge), but really can't match the efficiency of black's creature removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three-color &amp;quot;Esper&amp;quot; control gives you the best of both worlds, and the ability to play a couple of good white-black effects (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sorin%2C%20Lord%20of%20Innistrad&quot;&gt;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unburial%20Rites&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vault%20of%20the%20Archangel&quot;&gt;Vault of the Archangel&lt;/a&gt;), but greatly curtails your ability to play utility lands -- in particular, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;, which is a critical answer to a class of cards you otherwise can't deal with directly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Modern format, where players have access to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20to%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;, the strategic calculus changes: white is just as good, if not better, for powerful spot removal, while black's advantage is powerful targeted discard (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisition%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;). At the tournament level, it only takes a few strong cards to effectively shift the color pie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-01-29T17:04:19.427" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T17:04:19.427" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6761" CreationDate="2012-02-29T14:43:35.110" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crown goes to the player that chose the &lt;strong&gt;King&lt;/strong&gt; role card at the end of the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/support/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight Rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 14).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4) King&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... If you are murdered, you skip your turn like any other character. Nevertheless, after the last player has played his turn, when it becomes known that you had the murdered King’s character card, you take the Crown (as the King’s heir).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T14:43:35.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-29T14:44:17.063" Score="7" ViewCount="2086" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have A&amp;amp;A Europe.  I generally just play with one other person.  The problem is that the game takes so long to play that we rarely play - because it takes so long.  Do different editions take more or less time to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="303" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T00:34:39.753" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T07:18:57.517" Title="Which Axis and Allies Game Takes the Least Amount of Time to Play?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|play-time|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-02-29T14:46:31.367" Score="14" ViewCount="8281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Axis and Allies takes a long time to play.  Does anyone have any house rules that would shorten the game?  I actually own A&amp;amp;A Europe, but general answers are welcome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="303" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T15:04:06.310" LastActivityDate="2018-01-25T13:20:41.983" Title="How can I speed up a game of Axis and Allies?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2012-02-29T16:38:44.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another example that Alex P didn't cover is that adding another color can, in the right application, make your deck a lot more powerful.  Consider all of the flackback costs in Innistrad and Dark Ascension.  A decent amount of them are off-color of the main casting cost of the card.   If you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; play the right colors, the card is a one-off.  However, if you play &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; colors then the card is a two-fer, giving you a decent amount of card advantage (especially considering the effect of the flashbacked spell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T16:38:44.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2012-02-29T17:57:00.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alex P's answer is fantastic, but I think I can add to it somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limited:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You mentioned limited in your answer, and in limited it is very frequently necessary or nearly necessary to play 3 colors to get decent cards.  Of course even then your third color should often be a &quot;splash&quot; with just one or two cards and keep a heavy emphasis on the two primary colors.  Even when I could make a decent 2 color deck in limited, I am willing to splash a third color if it gets me a good removal card..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Constructed:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Alex P covered this one far better than I ever could, but I'll add that if green is one of your primary colors it becomes much easier to support a third color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casual:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This probably does not matter much if you are writing a strategy guide, but in casual play a lot of decks have themes or self imposed constraints that nudge them towards more colors.  I used to have a 5-color dragon deck.  Most of the cards in the deck were mana fixers/accelerators and the rest were dragons.  It hardly ever won, but it was fun to play and when it did win it was because I hard cast a massive dragon that proceeded to eat my opponent.  I also had a 4-color (no blue) angel deck that did a bit better than the dragon deck, but was also fun in a casual sort of way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Format:&lt;/strong&gt; Ok, this is obvious, but I'll say it for completeness.  Some formats (prismatic, etc) require multiple colors.  Also, some blocks encourage it.  Many Ravnica block decks benefitted from a third color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastEditorUserId="2198" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T20:32:41.290" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T20:32:41.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="871" CreationDate="2012-02-29T20:34:11.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When considering whether &amp;quot;upgrading&amp;quot; your board, you want to consider how it will impact your enjoyment of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoyment of the game is impacted in a few ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gameplay:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hard, smooth, level, and slick surface allows for accurate shots and purer deflections that allow advanced players to use &amp;quot;angles&amp;quot; better then lower quality surfaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rigidity of the posts, and cleaner cut 20 hole provide more consistent bounces and 20 point hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solid, thicker play surface combined with a taller rail supports having harder shots being trapped in the ditch rather than bouncing back on to the play surface disturbing the remaining pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Longevity:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stained and urethaned wood or composites are less susceptible to moisture, wear and tear and are less likely to warp and/or lose their shape over time.   Quality crokinole boards are frequently considered desirable heirlooms and can be enjoyed pass down other generations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Presentation, Aesthetic and Ergonomics:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many owners of high quality boards consider them artwork or attractive furniture.  Over hung on a wall or displayed on a stand, the boards are often conversation starters: you are more likely to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing a substantial and attractive board on a table with high quality discs definitely changes the look, feel, sound, and even smell (esp a freshly waxed board) that engages players more than a smaller cardboard playset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you enjoy crokinole on small cardboard set, and think that this is a game you would be playing for many years, you might consider a handmade board a form of investment.   Its not uncommon for players to point to the size and price point of a quality crokinole board as reasonable alternative to a billiard table or shuffleboard table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2562" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T20:34:11.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6776" CreationDate="2012-02-29T21:38:25.030" Score="18" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a game with the following relevant cards: Trader and Witch. We're several turns into the game and the Curse pile has emptied. I have a Trader in my hand, and it's Barry's turn. Barry plays Witch to get the cards, I'd like a Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contend that even though the Curse pile is empty, I would gain a Curse (according to the wording on Trader) and therefore I can gain a Silver instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barry says that since the Curse pile is empty, you wouldn't gain a Curse therefore you can't reveal Trader and in turn, cannot gain a Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is right? If possible, please provide sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yT61n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trader: Trash a card from your hand.  Gain a number of Silvers equal to its cost in coins. When you would gain a card, you may reveal this from your hand.  If you do, instead gain a Silver.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trash a card from your hand.  Gain a number of Silvers equal to its cost in coins.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When you would gain a card, you may reveal this from your hand.  If you do, instead gain a Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1964" LastEditorUserId="30" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T03:37:44.157" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T03:37:44.157" Title="Can you gain a Silver with Trader if the original supply pile was empty?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-hinterlands|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2012-02-29T21:45:49.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll add just a little bit to what Alex and Timothy already said: multiple colours decks are playable with no huge problems, especially if you limit the cards with high casting cost in one specific colour.&#xA;Several legendary cards have multiple colour casting cost and... they are there to be seen in play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think multi-coloured decks are special fun when you construct a combo deck (that, let's say, grants you automatic victory when you manage to play the combo-cards together) around a three cards combo, where the cards are of three different colours.&#xA;If black is not one of that three colours, you may want to add also that four colour just for adding Demonic Tutor, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, being this a card game that you play for fun and to confront different playing styles, having more colours may be fun and add to the variety of the game, otherwise everybody would play the very same deck that won last world championship or so ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T21:45:49.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6773" CreationDate="2012-02-29T22:01:44.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;When you would gain a card...&quot;&#xA;(source - Trader card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The condition &quot;would gain a card&quot; is not satisfied when there is no card to gain. Hence, there is no reason to think that you should gain a silver. Key word: &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your reasoning doesn't make any sense. What could it possibly mean to gain a curse from an empty curse deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GAIN: take a card and add it to your discard pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules. Accessed leap day 2012, 16:19 GMT -6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no card to take. &#xA;There is no gain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-02-29T22:19:53.370" LastActivityDate="2012-02-29T22:19:53.370" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6773" CreationDate="2012-02-29T22:12:44.020" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;When...would&quot; text is only applied when the event specified actually would occur; if it is impossible for any reason, then the conditional is ignored.  The following is the relevant section in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Complete_and_All-Encompassing_Dominion_FAQ#toc37&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;19.2 &quot;When would&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An ability that happens when an event would occur (such as when you would gain a card), happens before the event actually occurs (before you gain the card). Note however that this ability can only happen if the event would have otherwise occurred, i.e. if the event would have occurred if no when-would abilities had interfered (so you cannot for instance trigger a when-would-gain ability when &quot;trying&quot; to gain a card that's not available in Supply)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donald X explicitly refers to this exact situation in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7647552#7647552&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trader only works if you really would gain a card. If you try to gain a card from an empty pile, you can't use Trader then. I see how this is a question and sadly it is not covered in the FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-03-01T03:27:42.947" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T03:27:42.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6780" CreationDate="2012-03-01T01:36:27.250" Score="3" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player explores the Mansion with more than one Explore (ie: +1 Explore from a Shotgun), they normally have the option to draw more than one card and resolve them both at the same time.  While this is fairly straightforward when both cards drawn are Infected, the situation when one of the cards is an Item or a Token is not quite as clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point would the Item/Token be resolved?  Is it immediately after the card is revealed, as would be the case if it was a single draw?  Or maybe it would be after the Infected itself is defeated.  Or maybe it's just after the Infected is battled, win or lose, so long as the player doesn't die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm leaning towards the &quot;just don't die&quot; interpretation myself, but the rulebook is not particularly clear (I only have the base set to refer to, not sure if it's been clarified in the expansions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:19:27.273" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:19:27.273" Title="Can items and Tokens still be claimed from the Mansion even if the character is defeated?" Tags="|resident-evil-deck-building-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6769" CreationDate="2012-03-01T04:36:19.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a variant of Axis and Allies referred to as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessvariants.org/wargame.dir/aa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies Chess&lt;/a&gt;. I've not tried it myself, but this variation uses no dice, which I presume would greatly speed up the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/Games/WW2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;playing it online&lt;/a&gt; - then you don't have to spend all that time setting up, moving pieces, counting out IPCs, and so forth. But I guess that kind of defeats the social aspect of the game, unless you all bring your laptops over and play whilst visiting together. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastEditorUserId="44" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T14:17:57.357" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T14:17:57.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6777" CreationDate="2012-03-01T06:15:08.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would apply the effect of any [Token][Item][Event], or any other Non-Infected card when it is revealed, before defeating or failing to defeat the infected. You resolve combat only after applying the effects of the Non-Infected cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bandai.com/residentevil/pdf/RE_RuleBk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official Rules&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-Infected Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes Events can be found when Exploring the Mansion instead of an Infected. In this case, When the Event is revealed, perform the effect listed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bandai.com/residentevil/forum/showthread.php?274-Comprehensive-FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (which appears to be answered mostly by Alex_Bandai, who I assume is a Bandai Representative):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I am defeated can I still collect Tokens or Items reveled?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you collect all tokens and items as soon as you discover them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T06:15:08.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6750" CreationDate="2012-03-01T21:43:28.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jefromi has mentioned in his comments, I don't think you need to worry about what format the questions come in. In other words, who cares if the questions come on cards? Almost every modern board game involves cards but those don't seem boring for their use of a card mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The really important thing for maintaining interest is what happens around those cards. What makes the player have to draw or use those cards, what they have to do to utilize those cards, what they can use cards for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be really cool to have a &lt;strong&gt;&quot;cooperative&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; board game, rather than the standard competitive ones. I think a very stripped down and simplified &lt;strong&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/strong&gt; board game would be really cool. In that game, every turn the players have to turn over a &quot;Crisis&quot; card. The Crisis card is some kind of challenge or &lt;strong&gt;test&lt;/strong&gt; that all of the players must help out in to complete. These cards could either make something good happen if the players succeed, or have a setback if the players fail. These tests could be some kind of trivia test or a math question or any kind of educational quiz. Each card could have two conditions - if the current player can pass the test by themselves (for a bigger bonus), or if they need to ask for help from their teammates. This would encourage cooperation, knowledge sharing, but also a focus on each player being accountable without being a huge penalty if they don't know all the questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A key piece to keep people involved is to make sure that the entire game isn't just answering questions. Even a trivia game such as Jeopardy has a betting mechanic in Double Jeopardy's and Final Jeopardy - this keeps people interested. Make sure that when you construct the game, there are interesting things the players can do to advance the game that aren't solely based on the material being taught. Again, games like Battlestar Galatica or &lt;strong&gt;Red November&lt;/strong&gt; may be good templates for making decisions and moving around, in addition to some mechanism that is out of their control (ie. the trivia question cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T21:43:28.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6716" CreationDate="2012-03-01T22:08:14.280" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the main points have mostly been hit. A few strategies: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Direct interaction during other players' turns. For example, if there is a combat element, if the defending player has interesting choices such as playing cards from hand to gain advantage. As mentioned, Magic is a good example as the defending player has plenty of decisions to make and cards to play. Counterpoint is Risk, where defender just rolls dice doesn't work as well for keeping interest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Indirect interaction during other players' turns. In a recent game Eminent Domain, player gets to piggyback on the decision the current player makes. Or in a game like Battlestar Galatica, there is so much meta-game discussion that regardless of whose turn it is, all players are engaged and invested even if the game mechanism doesn't allow them to interact with the &quot;game&quot; at that moment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pre-planning while avoiding Analysis Paralysis. Player can more or less make all decisions about their turn while other players are doing their own. A key part of this is avoiding adding new information during current player's turn. For example, if the player must draw a card, have them draw at end of turn rather than beginning of turn. This will give them more time to internalize their choices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there really is no way to do any of the above, then you need to find a balance in length of turn. Perhaps make really short turns, but if the player only has a few actions each turn they may be all the more frustrated because they feel like they can't get anything done on their turn. If you instead give them lots of actions, you can make the player's turn feel really beefy, but that's going to make the wait for next go-around that much worse.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's a golden rule for amount of downtime. Instead, it's all about perceived downtime. My &quot;turn&quot; may only come up every 15 minutes, but as long as I am thoroughly engaged in what my opponents are doing during their turns, and I have true decisions and actions to take during their turns... it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2012-03-01T22:08:14.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-02T06:25:17.413" Score="16" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some strategies that people have used to introduce novice players (kids or spouses...) to increasingly complex strategic gaming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride is a big hit at our house - we'd like to move along the continuum to Risk and then onward toward grand strategy - maybe not so far as Twilight Imperium, but into some more planning-centric and possibly backstabbing games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="982" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T04:17:15.403" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T17:37:18.633" Title="What are some good ways to transition to more complex strategic thinking games?" Tags="|teaching|complexity|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-03-02T15:06:11.020" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the order in which you introduce games is only of minor importance in comparison with understanding what kind of person you're dealing with and what games that type of person would like. So the key is introducing different types of games to identify the gaming personality type. Here are a few gaming personality types I've run across, and the progression that makes sense for them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nature-born game lovers.&lt;/strong&gt; My son is one of these. He had mastered&#xA;the strategy of Sorry by the time he was 3 and by the time he was 4&#xA;wanted us to teach him every game we had in the house. He started&#xA;learning the card game of bridge at age 5. Progression: Order doesn't matter for people like him except for games that require reading and truly complex games like Bridge. He was not a fluent reader until age 7 but some games (i.e. Settlers) could be played anyway by memorizing the pictures on the card. More important than complexity is how interesting the games are. Nature-born game lovers usually want to keep learning new games and they end up getting bored with games of limited complexity and/or limited variation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Socialites.&lt;/strong&gt; You may think they hate games altogether but if you&#xA;find social enough games (&quot;party&quot; games) they'll play. Examples: Charades,&#xA;Pictionary, and many card games. It is interesting that many of&#xA;these people end up playing hard card games (i.e. Bridge) just&#xA;because it is easy to socialize around the games. But don't expect&#xA;these kinds of people to ever play Chess, Go, or any other&#xA;complicated game which limits socializing. Progression: Charades is a really nice one to start with. Kids will need the subject area(s) limited to things they know about. Most kids like to play the alphabet game on long car rides  (find a word you can see that begins with letter &quot;a&quot;, then &quot;b&quot;, and so on). There are other games like this with no components but as they get older you can introduce kids to games like Clue or Squint. Pictionary and some other similar trivia games are simple to learn and play but require extensive world knowledge so are going to be more appropriate for high school age and up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game haters.&lt;/strong&gt; If you try a variety of different games on a person&#xA;and he or she hates them all, then give up. Some people just don't&#xA;care for games. At best, they may be willing to do 1 or 2 games they&#xA;learned as a kid and that's it. Progression: If they truly hate all games, then nothing you introduce will matter. However, be sure to have them try several completely different types of games, in case they only like one specific type of game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nature-born engineers.&lt;/strong&gt; I have a friend who loves games but it&#xA;was looking like his son was in &quot;Game hater&quot; category. I gifted them&#xA;a copy of Settlers of Catan and we were all surprised that the son&#xA;loved it after a history of getting bored with every other game&#xA;tried. 2 months later, Eurorails become his favorite game. This kid loves building things so I'm guessing he would like&#xA;other games too where you see a network of pieces growing over a&#xA;board. Progression: Blokus is a good first one given how simple the rules are. Ticket to Ride is also fairly simple. Settlers and Eurorails are only slightly more complex. I'm not not sure if an empire-building game with economics such as Eclipse would eventually be appealing, as I don't know many people in this category.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ordinary people&lt;/strong&gt; (that don't fall into any of these extremes). I&#xA;have encountered a surprisingly small number of people who like&#xA;games a little but not a lot. Most people I know fall into the first&#xA;3 categories. With ordinary folks, I find that if you push hard to&#xA;get them to try many new games, or push games on them that take more&#xA;than about 90 minutes to play, or ramp up complication too fast,&#xA;then they end up not wanting to play at all. So just let them&#xA;proceed at a leisurely pace, playing the games they really enjoy. Progression: I would start with very easy traditional games like tic-tac-toe, dots, hangman, checkers, simple card games. You may be able to get them more interested in playing a game to fill in time like waiting for food at a restaurant (which is why I mentioned the first 3 games).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Word smithers.&lt;/strong&gt; These people love word games and little else. Progression: This is far more age-dependent than any other category. For kids: Hangman, Boggle, Jotto, 25 words or less, Scrabble, might be a good progression. High school and older who already like crossword puzzles can jump right into scrabble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategy-only.&lt;/strong&gt; These people don't see the point in playing games&#xA;with random elements. They will play Checkers, Chess, Go, and&#xA;possibly logic and hidden information games like Mastermind or&#xA;Stratego. They may play them well - maybe even extremely well. But&#xA;the vast majority of games hold little interest due to the luck&#xA;element. Perhaps also in this category are people who tolerate modest amounts of luck so long as skill matters the most (Examples: Bridge and Poker). Progression: Tic-tac-toe, checkers, chess is a Western approach. Tic-tac-toe, Reversi (Othello), Go is an Eastern approach. Or a card track could look like solitaire, spades and/or hearts, bridge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other.&lt;/strong&gt; Like the nature-born engineer type I described above, there are certainly other people out there who enjoy only one very specific type of game. The path to discovery is to experiment with very different types of games, and not necessarily with simple ones first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain games are popular because they work well for at least 3 out of first 7 of the above categories of people. For examples, Monopoly, Ticket to Ride, and Settlers of Catan all work well for 1, 2, and 4. I have played a ton of Settlers over the past decade because it offers a particularly good balance for people in these three categories. (Our kid learned it before he could read. First we played without development cards, then he just memorized the pictures on the cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is likely I missed some types of people - if I did, please mention them in the comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T17:37:18.633" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T17:37:18.633" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-03-02T18:42:59.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technology has helped me convert/graduate more players than any other tool that I have used. Consider Dominion: this game is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; easy to play online. You click on cards that are in bold and then you click &quot;end turn&quot;. Notice that arbitrary button-pressing will probably never lead to a victory, but that the &lt;strong&gt;game mechanics&lt;/strong&gt; can be easily learned since the computer will not let you do anything illegal. &#xA;I taught my friend's young (12?) son to play in one 6-minute game on the isotropic reserved.&#xA;Then when you transition to live play, you can say &quot;remember when &lt;strong&gt;_&lt;/strong&gt; (you couldn't play two action cards because.../you couldn't build your settlement there/you couldn't claim that railway route&quot;, depending on which game you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also suggest using so-called &quot;gateway games&quot;, such as Settlers, Ticket to Ride, and Dominion. Once socialites realize that there are other games besides pure luck games, true gamers can emerge!&#xA;Settlers -&gt; Cities and Knights -&gt; (not sure what game has similar mechanics)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride -&gt; Steam/Railroad Tycoon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion -&gt; 7 wonders/Ascension. Never MtG. For the love of god... :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pirate's Cove -&gt; Merchants and Maruaders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carcasonne-&gt; ??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what an intro &quot;worker-placement&quot; game would be, but eventually people should graduate to Agricola and Lancaster,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For co-op, Forbidden Island is popular (though this game struggles - like many co-op games - to answer the question &quot;how is this different than paying all four characters by myself?&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T18:42:59.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6851" CreationDate="2012-03-02T22:46:23.580" Score="8" ViewCount="1366" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing Bang! but I'm finding it hard to play a game with my friends, because of our busy schedules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would love to play a solitaire version of Bang! if it existed, so that I could get my spaghetti-western card game fix between groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of, or has anyone created solitaire rules for this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T14:26:49.737" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T14:26:49.737" Title="Is there a solitaire version of Bang?" Tags="|house-rules|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6794" CreationDate="2012-03-02T22:56:14.193" Score="3" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davincigames.net/bang/dV-bang-two_players_variant.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official two-player variant rules&lt;/a&gt; say that at the start of the game, you get two character cards, and you choose one to be your &quot;exposed&quot; character and one to be your &quot;covered&quot; character. You can only use the abilities of your exposed character, unless your covered character is specifically targeted by your opponent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the point of the covered character if it's just always going to be in the background? Do the covered character and exposed character ever change during gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T20:58:22.787" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T20:58:22.787" Title="What's the point of the covered character in the Bang! 2-player variant?" Tags="|variants|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-03-02T23:05:56.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find the main factor that affects game introduction is the learning curve.  Even if people enjoy playing new games, they generally don't enjoy actually learning them.  The longer the interval between &quot;Hey, would you like to play a new game?&quot; and &quot;Okay, we're ready to play.&quot;, the less likely any novice gamer is to stick around.  Even if they do survive the initial training and make it to the game proper, you're still at a severe disadvantage; the only experience they have of this game so far is &quot;This is so boring...&quot; and now you actually have to fight against that.  First impressions are not easy to counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason the classic board games are so popular and have withstood the test of time isn't because they're particularly great games.  It's because the rules are very easy to learn, and the games themselves are enjoyable enough to keep playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add to that the fact that many of these games also share mechanics.  Learn how to roll a six-sided die and move a little piece from one square to another, and you've mastered almost everything that Parker Brothers and Hasbro can throw at you.  This makes the learning curve on future games that much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to bring this back around to the question in the opening post, you probably want to start with games that have as short a training period as possible.  These will fall into two main categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games with easy rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games that rely on previously-learned mechanics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket To Ride is a good example of the first category.  With the basic game, you can get new players up to speed on the rules in a matter of minutes.  With any of the subsequent games, as long as everyone knows the main rules it only takes a few more minutes to explain what's new.  In either case, the time between pulling out the game and getting new players to actually start playing is negligible; everybody's in the game proper well before their initial enthusiasm has a chance to fade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the jump from Ticket to Ride to Risk doesn't make a whole lot of sense; there is no practical overlap between game mechanics so you'd have to teach the Risk rules from scratch.  The jump from Ticket to Ride to, say, Settlers of Catan would be much smoother.  If they're well-versed in Ticket to Ride, then they've already got a good grasp on the following notions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect cards for building stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Connect valuable points with roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop other people from connecting valuable points with roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Might not seem like all that much, but the more mechanics a new player already knows, the less time they have to spend figuring them out.  And the less time they spend figuring stuff out, the sooner they get to actually have some fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have a particular game in mind that you're looking to lead everyone toward, break it down and figure out games with overlapping mechanics which are easier to teach.  If you're just trying to broaden your group's gaming horizons, introduce them to new games that are either easy to learn, or similar enough to stuff that they've already played.  Either way, the more games everyone has under their belt, the easier it will be to pick up anything new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-03-02T23:05:56.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2012-03-03T01:49:16.753" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your strategy should be highly dependent on your particular city's special strengths and weaknesses. For example, if you're the city (I forget which one) with the &quot;science wild card&quot; special power, then you have some benefit to concentrating on green cards. If you're Giza, you'll need a lot of raw materials to build your wonders, so it would be risky to depend on your neighbors to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest factor in your strategy's success is seeing the inherent relationship between your city and your neighbors' cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check to see what materials you need to build your wonder levels and how those compare to what your neighbors need to build theirs. I have seen several games in which players could not build their last level because there was one item they needed that neither they nor their neighbors supplied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have a special city power that involves free buildings, or getting something from the discard pile, then timing your build is very critical. Don't build the &quot;rifle through the discard pile&quot; when there is no discard pile yet. Obviously the later you use this power the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One handy tactic with the &quot;free building from the discard pile&quot; power is to discard a very expensive high-value card like the Palace, turn it in for the three coins, and then build the special power level, in which case you get it right back -- a free build plus three coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some cities it's best to build the levels early, and others to wait as long as possible. Don't forget to make a mental note to set aside cards to build your levels, cards that you can't use. Don't get to the end of Age III with two cards and two unbuilt levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for military power, the players I've played with tend to be either/or. Very rarely do they start with a red card in age one and then add a few more over the course of the game. The benefit of being without any red cards depends a lot on the players TWO cities away from you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about opportunity costs -- is building that next red card worth the VP of the cards you're passing over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2577" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T01:49:16.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-03T04:16:25.480" Score="3" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the game where there are 120 cream-colored plastic squares about an inch and a half on each side with a single number in each corner?  The numbers range from 0 to 5. I do know that Toys R Us doesn't recognize it, so it must be an older game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I knew what this game is called, I'd also like to find the instructions for how to play it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2578" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T05:38:29.417" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T05:44:09.380" Title="What is this game featuring plastic squares with numbers in each corner?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6792" CreationDate="2012-03-03T04:47:05.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4788/quad-ominos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quad-Ominos&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;a href=&quot;http://catalog.pressmantoy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pressman Toy Corporation&lt;/a&gt;, perhaps? &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/7025/quad-ominos-rules-english-french-doc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules, in English and French&lt;/a&gt;, can also be found linked from that page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-03-03T05:44:09.380" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T05:44:09.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6789" CreationDate="2012-03-03T05:28:51.787" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played this game, but the rules seem fairly clear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You can swap which character is covered, and which is exposed, each game turn. So they don't have to stay in the background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of any turn, after dealing with such cards as Jail&#xA;  and Dynamite and before Phase 1, the active player chooses one&#xA;  character to be exposed and the other to stay cover. In order to do&#xA;  this, push the exposed character towards the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You only get to use your exposed character's ability. The exception is when your covered character is targeted, in which case you get to make a response from them instead (poking their head out of cover).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During your turn, or your opponent’s turn,&#xA;  you can only use the ability of your exposed character. However, if&#xA;  your covered character is the target of a card (BANG!, Indians!, Duel,&#xA;  etc...) you temporarily get the ability of your character in cover&#xA;  (and lose the ability of your exposed one), for the short time needed&#xA;  to respond (see example below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Your hand size is determined by the life remaining of your exposed character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you declare the end of your turn, you must discard from your hand any&#xA;  card exceeding the current life points of your exposed character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-03-03T05:28:51.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-03T18:14:01.970" Score="5" ViewCount="11275" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a broad question so for simplicity I will use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=185817&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seal of Fire&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Common exchange- creating a baseline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A uses Naturalize on Seal of Fire &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B Sacrifices SoF in response. SoF is highest on the stack and goes off first. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This leaves Naturalize without a valid target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Complicated exchange- Is this legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B Sacrifices SoF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response Player A targets it with Naturalize.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SoF is on the stack and it's ability has not resolved. Player B (as above) sacrifices SoF in response to the Naturalize. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can Seal of Fire be placed back on the stack by re-activating its ability, potentially with a new target?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2579" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T12:34:50.883" LastActivityDate="2018-06-11T13:43:34.393" Title="Can the &quot;Sacrifice (this card):&quot; activated ability be placed back on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6795" CreationDate="2012-03-03T19:16:43.273" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your second example is not possible using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120201.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;game rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A cannot target SoF with Naturalize, because it is currently in the graveyard. If they wanted to target the SoF, they need to do so when they had priority. Player A cannot prevent the SoF from being sacrificed for its ability anyway, since the ability exists independently of the source that created it. Seal of Fire says, &amp;quot;Sacrifice Seal of Fire: Seal of Fire deals 2 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot; It is an activate ability whose [Cost] is &amp;quot;Sacrifice Seal of Fire.&amp;quot; If Player B paid the cost to activate SoF, it would no longer be on the battlefield by the time the Active Player received priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]” A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority. Doing so puts it on the stack, where it remains until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 602, “Activating Activated Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1. Unless a spell or ability is instructing a player to take an action, which player can take actions at any given time is determined by a system of priority. The player with priority may cast spells, activate abilities, and take special actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is not possible to sacrifice a permanent twice. After you sacrifice a permanent, it is placed into its owner's graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T00:19:13.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1719" CreationDate="2012-03-04T04:21:56.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playok.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PlayOK&lt;/a&gt; is pretty good and uses almost-standard rules of Black Lady Hearts.  It runs on Java.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2545" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T04:21:56.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6799" CreationDate="2012-03-04T19:57:09.937" Score="10" ViewCount="8263" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature, with two different totem armors on it, and it's destroyed somehow (not sacrificed, not killed by -x,-x effects) what happens? Are both totem armors destroyed to save it, or just one? Can I choose which one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:23:08.363" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T23:23:08.363" Title="What happens to a destroyed creature with two totem armors on it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6798" CreationDate="2012-03-04T20:12:01.400" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=198304&quot;&gt;the Gatherer ruling&lt;/a&gt; (for Bear Umbra, not that it matters really):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a permanent you control is enchanted with multiple Auras that have&#xA;  totem armor, and the enchanted permanent would be destroyed, one of&#xA;  those Auras is destroyed instead -- but only one of them. You choose&#xA;  which one because you control the enchanted permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-04T20:12:01.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6802" CreationDate="2012-03-05T08:14:34.333" Score="7" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is designing a game, and I'd like to playtest it with him.  We have no possibility of meeting face to face; also, finding ±90 minutes to play through Vassal when I'm at home is quite difficult.  However, I travel quite often by train, and then I have much time.  The problem is, I have then only a very slow Internet connection (using my mobile phone).  Do I assume correctly that this should be enough to play through Vassal?  (I assume that it sends only info about my move - no graphics etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1630" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T03:49:35.463" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T03:49:35.463" Title="How much bandwidth does Vassal consume?" Tags="|online|vassal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-05T08:20:13.687" Score="2" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6800/how-much-bandwidth-does-vassal-consume%20%22this%20question&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, I'm wondering also whether using Vassal on a netbook (=small screen) is a good idea.  Are there any tricks helping in such a case, like zooming in/out etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1630" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T03:49:22.000" Title="Using Vassal on a small screen" Tags="|online|vassal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6800" CreationDate="2012-03-05T09:24:26.410" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vassal is pretty low bandwidth - as you correctly guess, the graphics are all part of the pre-downloaded game files, so in play it only sends information about which pieces you moved and where to.  It's on the same order as using a text chat app, and pretty favourable compared to a web page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you'll need to download and update the actual game files in advance, as those can be larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There's still enough bandwidth usage that you could notice the &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;, however, if you're on a pay-per-byte plan for your mobile.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T09:24:26.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6801" CreationDate="2012-03-05T13:52:46.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, using Vassal on a netbook is not a good idea. The standard resolution on most &lt;a href=&quot;https://superuser.com/questions/20750/why-do-so-many-netbooks-have-a-base-resolution-of-1024-x-600&quot;&gt;netbooks is 1024x600&lt;/a&gt;. While this isn't a bad thing for reading most websites, consuming video, etc. it doesn't work particularly well with the high resolution game boards in Vassal. The problems you will face will differ from module to module, but some of them will be pretty standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most boards will require scrolling. - You can help mitigate this issue somewhat by enabling scrolling with the keyboard arrows. The keyboard is a much better input device for quickly moving the board slightly up, down, left, or right than moving your mouse or built in touchpad to the scrollbar to click/drag the gameboard in the proper direction. You can enable this feature within &lt;strong&gt;File-&gt;Preferences&lt;/strong&gt; for each individual game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Additional Windows always overlay (are always On Top of) the main window. - This will only be an issue if your particular game requires multiple open windows, and each of those windows needs to be open constantly. You can attempt to give your self a little more room to see each of the individual windows by using the zoom controls for each particular window. &lt;strong&gt;Fit to Width/Fit to Height&lt;/strong&gt; will fit the graphics within the current dimension of the window. Additionally, you can shrink the Windows Taskbar to a 5 pixel bar (it won't show the icons of your open programs) which should give you another 20 pixels of screen real estate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Vassal Toolbar isn't dockable or configurable within the module. - This means that you cannot remove elements from the toolbar and make them their own floating windows, hide them, or dock them to other windows or other locations on the application. This means that when the module designer creates a toolbar icon, it will always be displayed above your game board. (Example: I play D-Day Dice. This module has 7 buttons that open other windows, 2 that roll dice, and the standard Vassal toolbar controls. Because I cannot configure the toolbar, it takes up two rows of space (about 90 pixels). You can modify the game module yourself to remove unwanted items from the toolbar with &lt;strong&gt;Edit Module&lt;/strong&gt;. Refer to the Help Guide within the Edit Module dialog for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T10:18:33.110" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T13:52:46.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6805" CreationDate="2012-03-05T15:36:08.403" Score="2" ViewCount="12702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bidding Standard American, and opening a &quot;strong&quot; two clubs (typically 22 HCPs and a six card suit), I like to hear responses of 2 diamonds (0-8 points, no more than game interest), or 2NT (9+ plus points, possible slam interest). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't want to hear other responses (2 hearts, 2 spades, 3 clubs, 3 diamonds) unless the responder has at least six of them headed by something like KQJ (or better). The reasons are because 1) I've &quot;advertised&quot; such a good 6 card suit myself, and 2) with 22 points, I don't want partner bidding &quot;my&quot; suit and exposing my hand as dummy. (It's unlikely that we'll both have the same 6 card suit, which is why I allow this exception.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong to ask my partners to limit their responses to 2 diamonds and 2NT? Or are there other viable responses to my 2 Club opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-02-26T19:16:48.877" Title="In Bridge, what are &quot;proper&quot; responses to a &quot;strong&quot; 2 club bid?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2012-03-05T16:09:34.990" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If that's the system you've agreed with partner - that the only valid responses to 2C are 2D or 2NT - then it's fair enough to raise an eyebrow if they start improvising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, and bear in mind that I don't play Standard American myself, but a pretty loose take on Acol: I don't understand why you would want to restrict responses so strictly.  Fair enough, you need to have a negative 2D bid, and to understand between you what that implies.  Beyond that, the more expressive you can make your system, the better.  What's the point of a 2NT &quot;generic positive&quot; bid if it just forces opener to ask more questions, at the next level of bidding, to determine the actual best contract to be in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my partner has enough points not to have to make a 2D bid, I'm delighted to hear about hearts or spades being his longest suit at the 2 level, even if that suit is only 5 cards or whatever.  Naturally, if partner wants to talk about a minor suit, at the 3 level, they'd better have more than a 5 card suit, to be on the safe side...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T16:09:34.990" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6807" CreationDate="2012-03-05T18:26:13.120" Score="5" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm inclined to say &quot;no&quot; because because each of the following could be considered lucky:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A finesse can be tried 2 different ways and your partnership selects&#xA;the one that works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play a routine, obvious hand against the strongest partnership of&#xA;the match&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play a challenging hand against the weakest partnership of the&#xA;match&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play a hand that better maps to your bidding system than that of&#xA;the other partnerships playing the same hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You purposely pursue a poor risk/reward chance at an overtrick and&#xA;make it, earning top score, in order to avoid an average result&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in discussing this a few minutes ago, I got to wondering what if you controlled for most of these things - assume 2 human partners playing a Duplicate Bridge (standard Matchpoints) tournament against a bunch of expertly programmed robot bridge players, all at the same level, all using the same bidding system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these more controlled circumstances, would Duplicate Bridge be a game of pure skill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:16:52.953" LastActivityDate="2022-09-21T03:26:27.690" Title="Is Duplicate Bridge (standard Matchpoints) a game of pure skill?" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6806" CreationDate="2012-03-05T18:51:53.147" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with the same experts playing North-South, there will be luck involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you have a pure guess in a two way finesse for a Q or distribution etc. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you have a guess during bidding (sacrifice or not etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;System wins/losses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you overbid/underbid/play incorrectly and hit a lucky lie of the cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same hand could be played differently on different tables, because of different actions taken (during bidding or play) by the players. One might play like a bozo, but resulting in the expert to take the wrong inferences, handing you a win (it happens!) etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you say will reduce the randomization of the field (some people call it field protection), but will not eliminate luck completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, a world class level Matchpoint contest will have very little randomization (similar to your proposed situation), but to win you need to play well (skill) and need some luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, most of the time it is your skill that matters, but luck does factor in, especially against equally matched opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T02:14:57.750" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T02:14:57.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-05T19:13:58.927" Score="19" ViewCount="6824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Risk Legacy, oddly enough, has &lt;em&gt;spoilers&lt;/em&gt;, so I'll go ahead and use the spoiler tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description of the envelope:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; There is an envelope in Risk Legacy, hidden in the box, marked &quot;Do not open. Ever.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is intended to be played 15 times over its lifetime, after which it gets (in theory) locked down in a playable, final state.  My question is about when to open this envelope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question about when to open it:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; Obviously I want to open it sometime.  I mean, they told me &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to open it, so &lt;em&gt;of course&lt;/em&gt; I want to open it.  The question is: when?&#xA; Should we wait until after the 15 games are played?  Or should we open it sometime near the end, say after 12 or 13 plays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers without spoilers as to the contents of the envelope are of course preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T19:06:08.617" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T19:06:08.617" Title="When should I open a particular envelope in Risk Legacy?" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5310" CreationDate="2012-03-05T20:00:26.083" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what my friends and I can ascertain, the board sides are not designed to be strictly balanced per se, but are instead designed to work best with different play strategies, or at least different skill levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the &quot;A&quot; sides provide fewer opportunities for specialization than their &quot;B&quot; side couterparts. For example, if a player is playing with Rhodes, but fails to take advantage of the early military points and never plays a military card, that player would have probably been better off with side &quot;A&quot;, which provides a few extra victory points and more closely matches the costs and benefits of the other wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it doesn't take much more than a basic working knowledge of the game to make the &quot;B&quot; sides more than pay for themselves, especially with a wonder as unbalanced as Rhodes (other wonders' &quot;B&quot; sides aren't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; as obviously better). In our games, even novice gamers rarely select side &quot;A&quot; after their first couple run-throughs, and when they do, it is rarely a winning strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2550" LastActivityDate="2012-03-05T20:00:26.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-05T22:43:23.590" Score="8" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does a positive horror rating mean? For example, when a monster has -1 horror rating and my character's willpower is 7, it is reduced to 6. In the positive rating, when the monster has 1 for horror rating, should I add 1 to my willpower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2583" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-03-05T23:26:58.247" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T01:28:02.497" Title="How is a positive horror rating handled?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6811" CreationDate="2012-03-06T01:28:02.497" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Horror tests are an attribute test, which are defined on page 13 of the rules, emphasis mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Occasionally, an investigator must make a modified attribute&#xA;  test. Such tests always list a &lt;strong&gt;positive or negative number&lt;/strong&gt; after the attribute (for example: “Test Strength –1”). This number is always added to the investigator’s attribute before rolling the die. In this way, a skill test with a negative modifier is more likely to fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T01:28:02.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6808" CreationDate="2012-03-06T02:55:02.863" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be difficult to go into the reasoning without spoiling anything, but you should probably open it before the 15th signature. Waiting until after that will make some of the packet not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The designer's opinion, RobDaviau wrote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would open at least two envelopes and one pocket first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T04:19:41.277" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T04:19:41.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2012-03-06T06:34:43.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only one way it makes sense and it is that he moves to the end of the line so you can't collect him. Otherwise there is no point in them even changing his specific rule. The card is resolved, then he moves to the end of the line making him impossible to catch without waiting it out or not playing action cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2585" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2017-02-19T09:36:18.590" LastActivityDate="2017-02-19T09:36:18.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2861" CreationDate="2012-03-06T11:02:09.363" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;nope, it is not a legal target cause it clearly says &quot;except it is still an enchantment&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2586" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T11:02:09.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6823" CreationDate="2012-03-06T13:30:11.023" Score="10" ViewCount="4504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm becoming more and more confused as I learn about how things have changed during a break in play I had some time ago. Seems the stack has changed now, and oft times abilities use a source's last known status rather than its current stats when resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being mentioned, if I have a card that taps a permanent, and I want to tap a creature in response to it activating an inherent tap ability, does that work? Can I tap it to prevent it from using such an ability? Is this different for mana abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player B says he is tapping his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steel%20Overseer&quot;&gt;Steel Overseer&lt;/a&gt; to put a +1/+1 counter on all of his artifact creatures. Can I tap it first to prevent him from doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player B says he is tapping his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt; to add a green mana to his mana pool, can I tap it first to prevent him from doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cannot, then what use is my ability to tap his permanents other than to prevent him from attacking or to take advantage of his tapped status (either by counter-attacking or perhaps an 'assassination' effect)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I cannot, is there a point in a turn when I COULD tap his lands and accomplish starving him of mana? If in theory, he could always tap his lands for mana &lt;strong&gt;in response&lt;/strong&gt; to my attempt to tap them, how long would such mana remain unused in his pool until it expires and he cannot use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:37:19.930" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:37:19.930" Title="How do twitch effects work with the stack vs activated tap abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6816" CreationDate="2012-03-06T13:38:49.947" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have allowed your opponent to tap something, without skipping phases by short cuts or something like that, then no, tapping is not an ability you can interrupt since tapping doesn't go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't declaring steps and you move directly into the combat phase without offering a change of priority in a pre-combat phase (main phase end step) then you can tap something that's being declared as an attacker (but this is because you're going back and playing the skipped phase, not because of some timing issue with tapping).  After the first time you do this, expect to hear the words &quot;pre-combat ... combat&quot; every turn forever and ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chapter 5 of the comprehensive rules describes the turn structure in great detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Review chapter 6 (CR 601 deals with spells 602 with activated abilities) of the comprehensive rules for the nitty gritty but essentially the process is Declare the Spell/Ability, Move the card from your hand if necessary, put it on the stack, make any choices necessary (if the card is modal for example), pick targets, announce any divisions the card might require (divide damage, etc), determine and pay the full cost of the spell ... the spell is now cast.  There is no change in priority for you to legally activate any ability or cast any spell in order to affect the caster's cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &quot;tap something&quot; cards are not meant to give you the ability to roll back time and undo things that are happening.  You use them to make your best judgements on how to deprive your opponent of resources.  For example BEFORE you declare attackers you may tap some of his creatures so they can't use them as blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to deprive your opponent of mana, it is more difficult because your activated ability (tap that land) will go on the stack.  In response to your activation they can tap the land to cast a spell.  You can't prevent this but it can still throw them off their tempo or force them to cast things out of order.  They can't just tap them to add to their mana pool for &quot;later&quot;.  It's handy to do this sort of thing in your turn to prevent counterspells for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T14:02:22.257" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:02:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6819" CreationDate="2012-03-06T13:39:56.680" Score="1" ViewCount="10065" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Green New Phyrexian Praetor &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vorinclex%2C%20Voice%20of%20Hunger&quot;&gt;Vorinclex, Voice of Hunger&lt;/a&gt; is quite the beast, his second ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an opponent taps a land for mana, it does not untap during his next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent taps his land for mana, and sometime during his current turn or my next turn, Vorinclex dies somehow. Do his lands remain tapped for the extra turn as originally stated, since they were tapped during the time Vorinclex still lived, or does the effect end immrdiately upon his death, allowing my opponent to untap them as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:31:09.867" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:31:09.867" Title="How does Vorinclex's second ability work at the time of his death?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6818" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:06:23.577" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will not untap as usual in the next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that after the ability triggered (while Vorinclex was alive) it went on the stack as a replacement effect for the next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Vorinclex died, it didn't undo that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any lands tapped after Vorinclex died would untap in the next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Vorinclex instead said something like &quot;While Vorinclex is in play lands do not untap as usual&quot; then it's death would change the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:06:23.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6816" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:29:28.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traditional method of depriving an opponent of mana by tapping down his lands is to tap them during his upkeep.  Yes, this isn't 100% effective: he can cast an instant in response.  On the other hand, it does impede him from casting creatures or sorceries, and also happens before his draw step, so may stop him from using the card he draws that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Your opponent can fill his pool with mana if he likes, but that mana will all leave the pool at the end of his upkeep: he can't &quot;save&quot; that mana to cast a sorcery or creature later.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, suppose you want to nullify a creature with an activated tap effect: let's say a Prodigal Pyromancer.  You could tap it down at the end of your opponent's turn, then untap in your turn, cast that 4/1 Haste creature that's been sitting uselessly in your hand for a while, and then attack with it while the Pyromancer is temporarily indisposed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T14:29:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6795" CreationDate="2012-03-06T14:46:58.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;user1873 is right. Scenario 2 is not legal since the sacrificing is a cost. To try to it clarify further:&#xA;If Seal of Fire instead did &amp;quot;T: Destroy ~this~ and deal 2 damage to target player&amp;quot; it would still deal 2 damage to the player if you destroyed it before the ability resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source&#xA;after that time won't affect the ability. Note that some abilities&#xA;cause a source to do something (for example, &amp;quot;Prodigal Sorcerer deals&#xA;1 damage to target creature or player&amp;quot;) rather than the ability doing&#xA;anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability&#xA;that references information about the source because the effect needs&#xA;to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the&#xA;stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In&#xA;both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it's expected&#xA;to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source&#xA;can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common analogy is that of a soldier throwing a grenade at you. Shooting the soldier after he has thrown the grenade won't prevent the grenade from killing you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way you can stop it is either counter the ability (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;) or prevent it from fulfill other restrictions like destroying mountains for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valakut%2C%20the%20Molten%20Pinnacle&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt;'s land limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=305059&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=305059&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:42:23.990" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:42:23.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6816" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:14:31.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll address your specific examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Player B says he is tapping his Steel Overseer to put a +1+1 counter on all of his artifact creatures. Can I tap it first to prevent him from doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the tap is part of the cost of activating the ability (ie. tap symbol is before the colon) then the answer is no. You can't stop a cost from being paid. If you put an ability on the stack to tap it, they could tap in response. If they tap it to activate the ability, the cost is already paid, and tapping it in response does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your preamble you seemed to indicate that in the past you could prevent activated abilities with a tap cost by tapping them first. The truth is, the game has &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; worked this way, even before the addition of the stack. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crystalkeep.com/magic/rules/limited-summaries.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Back in the day,&lt;/a&gt; the last person to cast contradictory instants got to determine order of resolution. There was even a ruling, back in the mists of time, clarifying that if you tapped something that had already been tapped, it has no effect on the action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;could never&lt;/strong&gt; twiddle a Prodigal Sorcerer to prevent it from dealing 1 damage to your dome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Player B says he is tapping his forest to add a green mana to his mana pool, can I tap it first to prevent him from doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot, nor could you ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I cannot, then what use is my ability to tap his permanents other than to prevent him from attacking or to take advantage of his tapped status (either by counter-attacking or perhaps an 'assassination' effect)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What use? Tapping stuff, even if it doesn't prevent activated or mana abilities is still &lt;em&gt;very very&lt;/em&gt; useful. Preventing a creature from attacking is usually quite important. It is also extremely useful to tap a defender after you declare attackers to give them a significant advantage. Especially if said defender has, say, &lt;em&gt;deathtouch&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;first strike&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;regeneration&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't to say that you are necessarily incorrect in your assessment of the utility of the tap effects in &lt;em&gt;your particular deck.&lt;/em&gt; If your deck already keeps the ground clear by a constant barrage of direct damage or other removal, or your big beaters have trample and don't particularly care what gets in the way, by all means, remove the tap effects from your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, if I cannot, is there a point in a turn when I COULD tap his lands and accomplish starving him of mana? If in theory, he could always tap his lands for mana in response to my attempt to tap them, how long would such mana remain unused in his pool until it expires and he cannot use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive rule 106.4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;106.4.&lt;/strong&gt; When an effect produces mana, that mana goes into a player's mana pool. From there, it can be used to pay costs immediately, or it can stay in the player's mana pool. Each player's mana pool empties at the end of each step and phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could tap the mana during that player's upkeep, and that will deprive them of using that mana during their main phase for sorceries or summoning a creature. Or you could tap their mana during their end step and that might prevent them from using nasty combat tricks or counterspells during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T20:18:31.930" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T20:18:31.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6816" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:25:38.253" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certain actions that you undertake in Magic which &lt;em&gt;do not use the stack&lt;/em&gt;, and therefore cannot be responded to. (AFAIK this has never been different for as long as the stack has existed, so this is not really a recent change.) The most important of these are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paying costs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activating mana abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first example above is an instance of #1. The &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt; of the Steel Overseer's ability is to tap the Overseer. After the Overseer is tapped, the +1/+1 ability goes on the stack, and each player gets priority. At this time it's too late to tap the Overseer, since it's already tapped and the ability is already on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second example is an instance of #2. Tapping a land for mana does not use the stack,  so you cannot attempt to tap a land in response to your opponent starting to play a spell. By the time you receive priority, the land is already tapped and the mana is in your opponent's pool (or has already been spent to put the spell on the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, then, you need to play your tap abilities before your opponent has the chance to do anything. This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're trying to deprive your opponent of mana, you should tap his lands in his upkeep step. Your opponent will be able to tap them in response to pay for instant-speed spells and abilities if he has any, but he won't be able to use that mana for any main-phase spells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're trying to keep a creature from attacking, the last time when you can do so is the Begin Combat step. By the time you get priority in the Declare Attackers step, your opponent's creatures are already tapped and attacking, so tapping them has no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're trying to prevent your opponent from using some sort of other tap ability on a creature or artifact, your best bet is to tap it at a time when the ability is not relevant or has no targets. For example, tap your opponent's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=avacynian+priest&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cmc&quot;&gt;Avacynian Priest&lt;/a&gt; in his end step. He could activate the ability in response, but it doesn't matter since your creatures will untap at the beginning of your turn anyway.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're trying to tap something like the Steel Overseer, which has an ability that's always relevant, you're basically SOL.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T16:25:38.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-06T16:45:21.990" Score="3" ViewCount="4847" Body="&lt;p&gt;Innistrad has a decent amount of archetypes that you can build.  In draft, what tier 1 deck types exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2012-03-06T17:27:16.603" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T15:23:25.207" Title="What strong draft decks exist for Innistrad-Innistrad-Dark Ascension draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6829" CreationDate="2012-03-06T18:37:47.867" Score="10" ViewCount="1787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning to get the Ticket to Ride: Europe and introduce the game to a new player. For a beginner, I was thinking of playing the European map with the original US rules. I will be ignoring tunnels, ferries and train stations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the European map playable and balanced with just the original rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-16T08:30:32.633" LastActivityDate="2019-12-16T08:30:32.633" Title="Can the original Ticket to Ride (US) rules be applied to the Europe map?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|balance|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6828" CreationDate="2012-03-06T19:31:04.497" Score="3" ViewCount="1201" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4546/how-does-regeneration-work-in-magic-the-gathering&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; about regeneration, which covers &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; everything about it, but the focus of that question was on instants such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShock%5d&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoom%20Blade%5d&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;. My question is different and wasn't answered by that post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I block a 5/5 creature with two 4/4 creatures that both have a regeneration ability, but I only have enough mana to regenerate &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of my creatures, can I regenerate after my opponent has assigned lethal damage to one of my creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the creature immediately die from lethal damage since I can't predict where said damage will go (and therefore can't activate the shield beforehand), or can I still regenerate it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:58:13.637" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T10:58:13.637" Title="Regeneration specifics: activation of the ability in combat" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6824" CreationDate="2012-03-06T21:12:35.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loosely speaking, I think strong Dark Ascension Limited (i.e. the official format, DKA-INN-INN) decks fit into one of three strategies corresponding to the three stages of play (which I have given these semi-descriptive labels):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Aggro&quot;: Try to win before your opponent can really get rolling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Midrange&quot;: Build up a crushing advantage with powerful two-for-ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Control&quot;: Hope to take over the game by making your opponent's stuff irrelevant, usually with a big bomb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks that don't do at least one of these -- such as a deck full of mid-sized creatures but no way to actually turn them into card advantage -- tend to be at a disadvantage. Note that there's a lot of overlap here, probably much more so than in Constructed decks. You really can't classify most cards as belonging to just one strategy. Instead, the goal here is to view the card differently, and prioritize it accordingly, based on your particular gameplan; and to adjust your gameplan and later picks based on your cards. Darkthicket Wolf is a primo aggro card and a good midrange card, for instance; your &quot;Human Sacrifice&quot; deck may turn into a more controlling deck if pick up a really good late-game bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never drafted with the pros and I don't play MTGO (where you can draft til you pass out from exhaustion), so I can't speak for the subtleties of &quot;tier 1&quot; vs. &quot;tier 2&quot;, but I can list what I've found effective. Names in quotes below are those that are widely used, to my knowledge; I've made the other ones up based on whatever described a deck acceptably. Colors are suggestions rather than set in stone; each archetype has good cards in some of the other colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aggro&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are decks that aim to win with an explosive start. Drafting them involves careful attention to your mana curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the top-tier decks in this category are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White-weenie-style (W/G)&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Attack fast with dudes; keep attacking with lots of dudes.&lt;/em&gt; &quot;White weenie&quot; is a proven strategy in any format where white has strong low-cost aggressive creatures. Thalia, Champion of the Parish, and Cloistered Youth definitely fit the bill, as do Darkthicket Wolf and Hamlet Captain. Basically this deck depends on its low curve to win with speed. In addition to the usual pillars of efficient creatures and a bit of removal, these decks can benefit greatly from Travel Preparations. I think it's good to have at least one of Faith's Shield, Spare from Evil, or Feeling of Dread in the deck -- a card you can use to either push through damage or stop an opponent's attack while creating an opening for a decisive counter-blow. Be careful with CC cards like Loyal Cathar and Strangleroot Geist, since it's not always easy to actually cast these on turn 2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red-Deck-Wins-style (R/B)&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Attack fast with dudes; sacrifice board position to push your dudes through if needed; use burn to finish the job.&lt;/em&gt; The big difference from white weenie here is burn, with the standout card being Brimstone Volley. Evasion is usually part of the game plan: cards like Vampire Interloper, Crossway Vampire, Wild Hunger, and Feral Ridgewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Midrange&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are decks that build up card advantage Jund-style. Dark Ascension has been good for this style of deck, with many of its premier cards having some component of built-in card advantage: Huntmaster of the Fells, Strangleroot Geist, Lingering Souls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of good decks are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Human Sacrifice&quot; (W/B)&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Trade your value-added weenies for your opponent's strongest creatures to build an advantageous position on the field.&lt;/em&gt; The &quot;ideal&quot; version of this deck starts with Skirsdaag Flayers; you feed them cards like Doomed Traveler, Loyal Cathar, and Elder Cathar. This deck also benefits from Human-token-makers like Gather the Townsfolk, and death-trigger cards like Wakedancer and Thraben Militia. Easy access to expendable dudes also makes cards like Demonmail Hauberk and Falkenrath Torturer better than they are in other decks. I like the Hauberk in particular because it's a good &quot;escape plan&quot; if you've picked up the relevant white cards but black has dried up: you can turn your deck into a pretty solid W/R or W/G morbid deck with potential for really crushing attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Morbid two-for-one (G/B)&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Pressure your opponent with mid-sized creatures; when your trade, use morbid and undying two-for-ones to come out ahead.&lt;/em&gt; There are two morbid Grey Ogres I absolutely love in Dark Ascension Limited: Wakedancer and Ulvenwald Bear. Both of these are easy-to-pick up cards with a lot of mid-game power. A mixture of these guys, undying beaters (basically all the Strangleroot Geists you can grab), and quality combat tricks allows you to build up card advantage and superior board position; Victim of Night and Tragic Slip are also very desirable to help answer your opponent's biggest threats. Outside of rare bombs like Vorapede, the ideal big creature for this deck is Galvanic Juggernaut. Try to avoid the bad undying creatures -- 2/2 can't-block four-drops and 3/2 flying six-drops are not what you need to win the game. And don't just focus on morbid and undying: any source of incremental advantage is great; good rares for this plan are cards like Mayor of Avabruck or Gutter Grime, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Werewolves&quot; (R/G)&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Play dudes that become better than your opponent's dudes.&lt;/em&gt; Werewolves are a lot better with the additional cards from Dark Ascension. The key card here actually isn't Huntmaster: he doesn't really care about the creature types or colors of the rest of your deck; it's Immerwolf. The werewolves plan has always been to punish an opponent's slow development with a crushing tide of big creatures. Immerwolf and Moonmist make it much easier to consistently ride that plan to victory. As with all decks, don't get hung up on creature types; any card that fits the gameplan will work fine for this deck. Also, be choosy! Not all the werewolves are good.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Control&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are decks that want to waste time until they can play something that trumps your stuff, like a big Spider Spawning or a Reaper from the Abyss. Basically my standard for determining whether a deck is &quot;control&quot;-y in Limited is &quot;Will this deck ever want to cast Think Twice?&quot; Control gains some defensive power in Dark Ascension with the addition of quality defenders like Headless Skaab and Nephalia Seakite, but it loses a lot due to pack dilution. In particular, the &quot;Mill Yourself&quot; decks -- like Burning Vengeance or Spiders -- are weaker in Dark Ascension because their key cards are less likely to show up now that you're drafting from 2 Innistrad boosters instead of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I think the most consistently draftable deck in this category is actually a rather boring one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flyers (U/W)&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Clog up the ground, beat your opponent to death with evasive guys.&lt;/em&gt; I'm calling this a control deck for Limited purposes because it's really hoping to make most of an opponent's creatures irrelevant with some huge defenders and tricky plays, then grind out a win with evasion. Cards like Nephalia Seakite and Dungeon Geists are representative of your gameplan: they're basically flyers that double as removal. A big advantage of drafting this archetype is that you can often late-pick &quot;big backside&quot; cards for your defense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T02:40:33.177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T02:40:33.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6826" CreationDate="2012-03-06T21:17:46.733" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the declare blockers step, the attacker must specify the order of the blocking creatures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that means, in the scope of your question, is that the owner of the 5/5 creature must declare which of your 4/4s he is going to deal damage to first.  As such, you have a pretty good idea which creature you want to regenerate: the one the attacker put first into the firing line!  Unless something else happens, that creature will take 4 damage and be regenerated, the other creature will take 1 damage, and both your blockers will survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T21:17:46.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2012-03-06T21:24:58.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that Ticket To Ride is fairly self-balancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means, applied to your question, is that the European map and destination tickets &lt;strong&gt;won't&lt;/strong&gt; be as intrinsically balanced as if you'd played with the full rules.  Obviously routes involving lots of ferries and tunnels have suddenly become a lot easier to complete, and as such more attractive to go for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equally, though, we can assume all players know this to be the case.  If the game gains an element of competitive jostling to be first to obtain what appear to be underpriced routes, then that's a whole new layer to the game, and one which I imagine would be a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't want to play Ticket to Ride: Europe with the US rules a lot of the time, but as a break from the norm there is no reason why it shouldn't be a great game.  Having to re-evaluate a &quot;known&quot; gameboard in the light of a dramatic change of the ruleset is an excellent strategic exercise in and of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-06T21:24:58.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-07T01:08:21.857" Score="5" ViewCount="5799" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when you discard a creature(with Undying) from your hand to the graveyard? Does it go to the Battlefield (without summoning sickness)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what happens if I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mulch&quot;&gt;Mulch&lt;/a&gt; and put all Undying creatures in the graveyard? The same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2590" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:00:43.377" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:00:43.377" Title="What happens when an Undying creature goes to the graveyard from the deck or hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6830" CreationDate="2012-03-07T01:39:40.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, sorry.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fine print on the cards tell us what we need to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Undying (When this creature dies, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it,&#xA;  return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1&#xA;  counter on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dies&quot; refers to &quot;goes to the graveyard from the battlefield.&quot; Thus, &lt;strong&gt;a creature card that is placed into the graveyard from any other zone doesn't trigger undying&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Undying doesn't say anything specific about &quot;summoning sickness&quot; or haste, the regular rules apply. Namely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t    be activated unless the&#xA;  creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since&#xA;  his or her    most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless&#xA;  it has been under its controller’s control    continuously since his&#xA;  or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the&#xA;  “summoning    sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter where the creature came from: if it didn't start the turn no the field under your control, it still has &quot;summoning sickness&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T01:39:40.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6835" CreationDate="2012-03-07T02:53:27.870" Score="5" ViewCount="1839" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride Europe, when I plan to build on top of tunnels, what happens when none of the drawn cards match the colours I have in hand?  For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Tunnel length: 3 grey segments&#xA;Played cards: 3 red cards&#xA;Drawn cards: 3 blue cards&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What additional cards am I supposed to play in the above case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T19:49:35.190" LastActivityDate="2018-05-10T13:25:40.053" Title="When tunnelling, what happens when the cards drawn do not match those played?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6834" CreationDate="2012-03-07T03:12:02.047" Score="5" ViewCount="2848" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have a regular MTG-drafting group. It's pretty informal, and after we draft sometimes a group of 4 people will play &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Two-Headed_Giant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Two-Headed-Giant&lt;/a&gt; just for fun since it's not really a tournament and more just a way to get together and play. However, several of them want to play the entire 'tournament' as all THG matches the next time we play. I have no problem with this at all and understand how THG works, but I'm curious as to the best way to do this in a draft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming we pick teams before the drafting, do we allow players to collaborate in choosing their cards? It seems like this would take way too long and require far too much effort to make the decks work well together. Granted, the effort would make for better decks for each team, but I don't think the extra time is worth it. I suggested that we not allow anyone to help their partner make decisions during the draft so they are still building a deck that can stand on its own, and not having one player run 23 counterspells and removals while the other runs 23 creatures. However, my friends say this could easily result in decks that do not play well together at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After we've picked the cards I figure everyone would be allowed to collaborate with their teammate to build their decks, but doing so during the draft just seems like too much. Currently I think players should not be allowed to give the cards they picked to their partner for their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What limits should we impose on collaboration during the draft to allow the teams to build decks that synergize well, without drastically increasing the time requirement of the draft?&lt;/strong&gt; Perhaps a 3-minute interval between each booster? How can we find a good balance of collaboration and increased time requirements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T04:24:12.800" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T21:56:01.467" Title="How much collaboration is reasonable for a Two-Headed-Giant draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6833" CreationDate="2012-03-07T03:50:27.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend just straight-up reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Document.aspx?x=Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;. You certainly don't need to do &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of this stuff for a &amp;quot;casual&amp;quot; draft, but it'll give you some good ideas about how to run things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Two-Headed Giant draft is actually an officially supported format, the MTR includes specific guidelines on how to run it. DCI recommends drafting as a team, then building decks from one shared pool:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9.6      Two-Headed Giant Limited Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the rules for Limited Tournaments (Section 7) apply, except as described below. The DCI&#xA;recommends that each team receive eight boosters per team for&#xA;Two-Headed Giant Sealed Deck tournaments and six boosters per team for&#xA;Two-Headed Giant Booster Draft tournaments. For the recommended&#xA;product mix for the current block, refer to Appendix E. Cards not used&#xA;in a team’s starting decks are considered a shared sideboard by the&#xA;two players that both players can access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9.7      Two-Headed Giant Booster Draft Tournaments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Teams (not players) assemble into random drafting circles (called pods) of&#xA;roughly equal size at the direction of the Head Judge. Teammates sit&#xA;next to each other. Tournament officials then distribute identical&#xA;booster packs to each team in the pod. After opening and counting the&#xA;cards in their first pack, the team chooses two cards from the booster&#xA;pack then passes the remaining cards face down to the team on its&#xA;left. Selected cards may be placed into one or two piles. The cards&#xA;chosen are not assigned to a particular player; they become part of a&#xA;pool out of which both players will build their decks. The open packs&#xA;are passed around the drafting pod—with each team taking two cards&#xA;from each before passing—until all cards are drafted. For the second&#xA;pack, the direction of drafting is reversed as usual. Thus, the&#xA;overall draft direction is left–right– left–right–left–right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, there are no prohibitions on communication between teammates; tournaments instead use time limits to discourage analysis paralysis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.4     Team/Two-Headed Giant Communication&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Members of the same team may, at all times, communicate between one another verbally. This&#xA;includes during play, during drafting, and during deck construction of&#xA;Limited tournaments. However, team members that have an opportunity to&#xA;acquire hidden information (e.g. by speaking to spectators following&#xA;their own match while a teammate is still playing), are restricted&#xA;from communicating with teammates for the duration of that match.&#xA;Prohibitions against written notes of any kind during drafts apply to&#xA;team drafts as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing without judges, I encourage working out some kind of procedure for handling slow play within your group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T03:50:27.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6832" CreationDate="2012-03-07T04:15:20.453" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If none of the drawn cards match the colour of the cards you chose to play, then you are in luck - the tunnel does not cost &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; additional cards. To put it another way, the tunnel costs 0 additional cards. This case isn't explicitly discussed in the rules, but I think it's quite clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When attempting to claim a Tunnel route, a player first lays down the number of cards required by the length of the route. Then the three top cards from the Train draw pile are turned face-up. For each card revealed whose colour matches the colour of the cards played to claim the Tunnel, an additional card of the same colour (or a Locomotive) must now be played from his hand. Only then can the player successfully claim the Tunnel route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T04:15:20.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2012-03-07T08:24:30.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The map plays well using only the US rules, but not as well as with the full TTR:Europe rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have to decide how to handle the ferry routes and the tunnel routes. You can play it ignoring the difference, treating them just as any other route, and it won't break the game. It also won't have the same level of difference in feel, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also: The Ticket point costs are formulaic - they are  the shortest possible route length between the two cities (except for the 2 miscalculated ones). So no adjustment of ticket values is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T08:24:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6825" CreationDate="2012-03-07T13:28:00.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not think this is the best idea, here's why: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, a game is designed and playtested against its original rules, to fit them as well as possible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since the Europe version adds the train stations, the game is &lt;em&gt;built&lt;/em&gt; in a way that encourages their use. In this case, the map has several choke points that get crowded quickly, requiring the other players to build the stations.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you respect the other rules (mainly the one stating that with less than 4 players, double routes only count as single routes), you could encounter difficulties completing your objectives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just risk it and hope for the best, of course. But in my experience, dumbing the rules down is not even necessary. I've taught TTR:E to a lot of people, and even the newbs hadn't had any difficulty dealing with the additional rules. You'll have to recap the rules for ferries and tunnels once or twice, but that's it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T13:28:00.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6841" CreationDate="2012-03-07T13:46:14.640" Score="6" ViewCount="4992" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother and I are living several 100 miles apart, which makes playing MTG face to face a little difficult. We have been playing via web cam (mounted over the table) for several months now but are still facing some problems with this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most annoying one is the problem stated in the headline. If a spell allows me to search his library, I cannot really do so, because I cannot reach through the web cam. We discussed having full deck lists that we can pass on whenever this happens, but this list must be adapted each time such a spell is played, because the library is different every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another problem is enslaving enemy creatures or putting enchantments on them. We created some workarounds but they are just that - workarounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do others deal with this issue when playing MTG over web cam? Are there any software tools that can help us with that? We are using Skype and I considered editing the video stream directly with my web cam software, to indicate enchantments and stuff like that. This helps in many cases, but does not solve the &quot;searching the library&quot; problem. I am grateful for any solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:10:03.437" Title="How to search opponents library when playing remote via webcam?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6838" CreationDate="2012-03-07T14:07:43.583" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could not your brother look through his library for you and vice versa? He could slowly reveal every card from his library, show them to you over the webcam, and take whatever action you tell him to. Secret searching is ultimately unnecessary because whatever you do after searching your opponent's library, the affected card(s), if any, will either go into that same player's library, hand, or into a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for enchantments etc., the easiest solution is probably scraps of paper and a pen for enchantment names. Ask for the card text and/or run Gatherer in a browser window for card text reminders where necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay there are actually 2 cards that allow you to exile cards from an opponent's library face down, one of them quite recent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184564&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Portal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218050&quot;&gt;Praetor's Grasp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess in those cases you can still use the above method, except the revealing player may not look at his own cards - hold the cards directly into the camera and reveal them from behind until you say stop or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T14:16:53.400" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T14:16:53.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6824" CreationDate="2012-03-07T15:23:25.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5287/what-are-the-possible-archetypes-in-innistrad-draft&quot;&gt;A previous question&lt;/a&gt; covered the major archetypes for Innistrad draft. Most of the information there is still relevant, as Dark Ascension hasn't dramatically altered the draft landscape for most of the core archetypes there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there were two marginal strategies in ISD draft that have become significantly better with the addition of DKA, if you open the cards for them in your first pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Mill&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting a dedicated mill deck in triple-ISD was chancy, but it was playable if the pieces came together. Adding DKA has made this a tier-1 strategy, so long as you get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NFYqP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://magiccards.info/scans/en/dka/41.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing Confusion by itself can mill your opponent for 15 or more after you flash it back, and it's definitely first-pickable. If you get it in your DKA pack, you should strongly consider moving into a blue control deck with the rest of your picks. Take strong defensive creatures such as Armored Skaab, Fortress Crab, and Stormbound Geist, tempo-based cards such Silent Departure, Grasp of Phantoms, and Griptide, and additional mill components like Dream Twist and Curse of the Bloody Tome. If you get an &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/84.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Undead Alchemist&lt;/a&gt; in your ISD packs, you'll do a little dance, since that zombie is unplayable in most decks, but nuts in a dedicated mill deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even if your U/x mill+control deck doesn't come together, you can still use Increasing Confusion as an alternate wincon in any number of other decks, or even a deck that's splashing blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tokens&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/19.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intangible Virtue&lt;/a&gt; was a late pick in ISD, simply because there weren't often enough tokens to make it worthwhile. But throw in DKA with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/dka/en/12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/dka/en/8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/dka/en/11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Increasing Devotion&lt;/a&gt;, and it becomes plausible to have a deck that uses tokens for its primary creature base. This deck obviously wants every copy of Intangible Virtue and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/22.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Midnight Haunting&lt;/a&gt; that it can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note again that all of the cards above are perfectly playable on their own, and you don't have to have a &quot;mono-tokens&quot; deck in order for them to work. But the existence of these extra token generators makes a token-heavy white aggro deck an especially attractive choice in DKA draft. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T15:23:25.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6838" CreationDate="2012-03-07T15:42:32.590" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need the proper tool. Webcams are not designed to keep track of MtG game states, so use a tool that can. There are many choices available MTG Online III (offical product, costs money for cards and packs), Apprentice (one of the first, but not a favorite of mine), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicworkstation.com/&quot;&gt;Magic Workstation&lt;/a&gt; (my favorite), Magic Suitcase, Magic Studio, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card manager keeps track of the game state, and the webcam allows you to observe the reactions of your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T18:04:19.350" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T18:04:19.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6844" CreationDate="2012-03-07T16:25:41.507" Score="7" ViewCount="2865" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working on streamlining the rules for the abandoned &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/TVTropesTheTradingCardGame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TvTropes TCG project&lt;/a&gt;, but the description of the &quot;Stack&quot; system confused me greatly since  the stack so rarely sees actual use in Magic (&lt;em&gt;disclaimer: I am not a magic player&lt;/em&gt;, but I have passing familiarity with it, and have also recently been reading columns on it by the designers to help with this project), in opposition to the Yu-Gi_oh! chain system, which is central to countering in that TCG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what happens in TvTCG is that once top item on the stack resolves, players get to respond to the action, resulting in a potentially &quot;branching&quot; stack (all players get to potentially counter an action in turn), whereas the YGO chain is strictly linear, once things start resolving they must all resolve before new items can be added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question boils down to: a) is the MtG stack &quot;branched&quot; in any comparable way? and b) is any comparison with the stack useful in regard of its obscurity in actual play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T12:37:57.573" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T12:37:57.573" Title="Can items be added to the stack after it has started resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2012-03-07T16:56:28.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Stack in Magic the Gathering is named as such, because it matches the abstract concept of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stack_%28abstract_data_type%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stack&lt;/a&gt;. A stack is a collection of objects, the top object can be popped off (to interact with), or a new object can be pushed onto the top of the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple real life example of a stack would be a stack of dirty dishes. The top dirty dish can be popped of the stack (like a spell in MtG resolves), or new dirty dishes can be added to the top of the stack (new objects will resolve in Last In First Out order LIFO).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The MtG Stack is not branched, but does allow everyone a chance to added to the top the stack, or if everyone passes the top of the stack resolves. New objects can be added to the stack when it is empty, or after any spell has resolved from the top of the stack. I don't think you can conceptually describe this concept as branching (or TvTCG's implementation either). Stacks either shrink in size/height or grow in size/height, they don't branch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-07T17:57:28.243" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T17:57:28.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6842" CreationDate="2012-03-07T17:17:46.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The stack in Magic is, well, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stack_%28data_structure%29&quot;&gt;stack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Spells you cast, abilities you activate, and abilities that trigger based on some game action or change in state, go on the stack. The system used to determine who gets an opportunity to put something on the stack is known as &lt;em&gt;priority&lt;/em&gt; in the formal rules. When one player passes priority, the other gets a chance to put things on the stack. When all players pass without adding anything to the stack, the topmost item (&lt;em&gt;and only the topmost item&lt;/em&gt;) of the stack resolves, and priority passes around again, meaning &lt;strong&gt;players can put additional things on the stack after a part of it resolves&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important additional rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most types of cards (e.g. creatures) can only be played when the stack is empty and it's your main phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay all costs (in mana and other required game actions, like sacrificing a creature) and make the relevant targeting decisions when you put something on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mana abilities (e.g. on land cards) resolve instantaneously without using the stack, to allow you to pay costs for things. This prevents a lot of bullshit minutiae that might otherwise occur anytime you tried to cast a thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stack is a game zone and things on the stack are game objects that can be affected by other spells and abilities (this is what allows counterspells to work).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, &lt;strong&gt;Magic used to use what was known as the &quot;batch&quot; system&lt;/strong&gt;, which was similar to the stack, but &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; effects on the stack would resolve once players were done putting new things on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the stack a rarely used in MTG? No.&lt;/strong&gt; Serious players at any level need to understand priority and the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the statement that gave you that idea is designers saying &quot;We don't like it when the cards talk about the stack.&quot; That's not because it's not a central part of game play. Rather:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The goal is for newbies and really-casual players to understand the flow of the game without having to learn all the details.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a part of the game where the rules tell you how to use the cards more so than the cards tell you how to use the rules, kinda like creature combat or drawing your opening hand, so the cards seldom need to mention these rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The architecture for casting spells and activating abilities is so foundational to the game that a mechanic that mucks with the process is likely to be very risky and convoluted, design-wise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to understand priority and the stack in full formal detail, you'll need to read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;MTG comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;; these are not designed for learning the game, however. The easiest way to get a feel for how the MTG stack works is to play some rounds in the &lt;em&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/em&gt; video game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T17:17:46.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6845" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-07T18:03:01.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about Magic: the Gathering specific to the Stack, a system for managing the order events resolve in. Please also tag &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;magic-the-gathering&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stack_(data_structure)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;data structure&lt;/a&gt; of the same name, the stack is a system for organizing the resolution of actions in many games where players have the ability to &quot;react&quot; to events in a way that the response resolves before the initial event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main characteristic of the stack is it's last-in first-out (LIFO) property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T15:23:59.370" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T15:23:59.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6846" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-07T18:03:01.553" Score="0" Body="For questions about Magic: the Gathering specific to the Stack, a system for managing the order events resolve in. Please also tag [magic-the-gathering]." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T15:23:59.370" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T15:23:59.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6833" CreationDate="2012-03-07T21:56:01.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option 1: allow collaboration during the decks construction, but set a time (quite strict) to pick the decks. (In this case I wouldn't allow side decks, if I were you...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2: no collaboraion, but allow side decks - after the first match the players will be able to access the side decks and fix the issues highlighted by last match (as normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-03-07T21:56:01.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6848" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-08T01:05:22.560" Score="11" ViewCount="77416" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature is sacrificed, does it count as dying? For example, when something is sacrificed via lets say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devouring%20Swarm&quot;&gt;Devouring Swarm&lt;/a&gt;, would it trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diregraf%20Captain&quot;&gt;Diregraf Captain&lt;/a&gt;s effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2596" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T21:04:10.397" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T22:58:30.347" Title="Does a sacrificed creature count as a creature that died?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2012-03-08T01:35:04.557" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. Assuming the sacrificed creature is a Zombie, Diregraf Captain's ability will cause target opponent to lose 1 life. This is because &quot;dies&quot; simply means &quot;goes to the graveyard from the battlefield&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.6. The term dies means &quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.&quot; It is used only when referring to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card that talks about something that &quot;dies&quot; does not care if the creature is going to the graveyard because of combat damage, a destruction spell such as Doom Blade, because it was sacrificed, or because its toughness was reduced to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T22:58:30.347" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T22:58:30.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6546" CreationDate="2012-03-08T08:14:20.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the original rules with me, but based on my memory and rules from BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7.0 ACTIONS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7.1 Travelling &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Moving an architect is a free action, that does not feature on the action disc. The player may freely move his architect&#xA;  at any time during his turn. He may move his architect to a city,&#xA;  build there and then move him to another city to build there again,&#xA;  and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only restrictions to moving an architect are: He may never be&#xA;  moved through a village in which no house (of whichever player) is&#xA;  present; He must sometimes pay for his passage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say - &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can move as many times as you want, even between your actions (And theoretically &lt;em&gt;build in &lt;strong&gt;four&lt;/strong&gt; different cities, or even &lt;strong&gt;five&lt;/strong&gt; with builder special role card&lt;/em&gt; in one turn) as long as you can move to them and pay the passage fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="687" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T08:14:20.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6788" CreationDate="2012-03-08T12:49:06.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Unofficial Bang! Blog&lt;/a&gt; has, among other great variations, a &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8wPX7XHoGh_ZGMxYTMzOTUtYWUxMi00YjYwLWE2ZmQtMTk4NmU3N2E5YjY5/edit?hl=en_US&amp;amp;pli=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;set of instructions&lt;/a&gt; (pdf) for single player Bang!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main changes in this solitaire version are that all roles and cards held are known to the player from the beginning, and that you play as both the sheriff and the deputy, with other &quot;NPCs&quot; making semi-predetermined moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can increase the difficulty by giving more cards to NPCs at the start, but not too many! The author can barely survive with two cards given to each NPC at start. (I'm afraid even I'm not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; good :p)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not always having a large crowd to Bang with, I have thoroughly enjoyed this rule set and have now almost played it more than &quot;normal&quot; Bang!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2330" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T08:32:14.237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T08:32:14.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6854" CreationDate="2012-03-08T22:23:57.693" Score="7" ViewCount="10423" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the Card type of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgmintcard.com/emblem-sorin-lord-innistrad-p-307101.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emblem Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgmintcard.com/emblem-sorin-lord-innistrad-p-307101.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtgmint&lt;/a&gt; lists it as Creature but I am not 100% certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgmintcard.com/emblem-sorin-lord-innistrad-p-307101.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2i4Fu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Emblem Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T04:03:23.693" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T04:03:23.693" Title="What is the Card type of &quot;Emblem Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-emblems|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6852" CreationDate="2012-03-08T22:42:06.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The type is Emblem, more info on Emblems is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Emblem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. This particular emblem can be created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSorin%2c%20Lord%20of%20Innistrad%5d&quot;&gt;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, an emblem is a reminder of an effect. So far, there are no ways to interact with emblems once they are created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T14:29:00.030" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T14:29:00.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6852" CreationDate="2012-03-08T23:09:32.437" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's not a real card. It's basically a token.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a game object, it's an &quot;emblem&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;113.1. Some effects put emblems into the command zone. An emblem is a marker used to represent an object that has one or more abilities, but&#xA;  no other characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;113.3. An emblem has no characteristics other than the abilities defined by the effect that created it. In particular, an emblem has no&#xA;  name, no types, no mana cost, no color, and no expansion symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;113.5. An emblem is neither a card nor a permanent. Emblem isn't a card type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249985&quot;&gt;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that creates these things (yes, multiples will stack). Dark Ascension booster packs contain an emblem token thingy to help you keep track of it. You aren't obligated to use the emblem card, just like you aren't obligated to use the official token cards to represent tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-03-08T23:09:32.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6838" CreationDate="2012-03-08T23:15:31.150" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://github.com/Cockatrice/Cockatrice&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://files.gitter.im/Cockatrice/Cockatrice/7NzU/cockatrice.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cockatrice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://github.com/Cockatrice/Cockatrice&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cockatrice&lt;/a&gt; is an open source platform for playing MTG online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Project description&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cockatrice is an open-source multiplatform software for playing card games, such as Magic: The Gathering, over a network. It is fully client-server based to prevent any kind of cheating, though it supports single-player games without a network interface as well. Both client and server are written in Qt 5. It is supported on Windows, Linux, and Mac OSX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;License&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cockatrice is fully GPL licensed and thus free software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Development status&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cockatrice is under active development as of January 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://files.gitter.im/Cockatrice/Cockatrice/bEE8/newcolors.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cockatrice play field screenshot.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game availability is very good (typically anywhere up to 1000 online users at a time and move), there are moderators to manage troll infestations, and a built in chat client to talk with other users.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:10:03.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2012-03-09T02:54:20.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mages' Contest&lt;/a&gt; is a red counter spell from Invasion. Instant, two red and one colorless. It reads: You and target spells controller bid life. you start the bidding with a high bid of 1. In turn order, each player may top the high bid. The bidding ends when the high bid stands. the highest bidder loses life equal to the high bid. If you win the bidding, counter target spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2601" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T19:34:18.560" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T19:34:18.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6860" CreationDate="2012-03-09T16:47:50.250" Score="10" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems rather odd that the minimum bid for an unmortgaged property in Monopoly is $1, instead of it being the mortgage value (or mortgage value -10% approximately). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bidding may start at any price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can mortgage a property at any time, getting its mortgage value out of it. The only point at which I can see this making a difference is when all remaining players except 1 have less than the mortgage value in assets, which is very unlikely since the maximum mortgage value is $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine this scenario. I only have $20 in cash and the only assets I own are Park Place (Mortgage Value $175). Boardwalk is up for auction. The maximum bid I can make is $195, which is cash on hand and Mortgage Value of Park Place. If I can buy Boardwalk for $180 or less, I should do so. The worst case scenario would be that I would have to mortgage Park Place for $175, and pay an additional $5 when I win the auction. I could then mortgage Boardwalk for $200, use $18 to unmortgage Park Place, leaving me with $18 which is pretty much back where I started. While this calculation isn't perfect as it depends upon how many properties you have to sell to get enough cash to win an auction, it would seem reasonable to begin the auction at/near Mortgage Value - 10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T21:57:03.597" LastActivityDate="2019-12-27T03:51:45.783" Title="Why isn't the minimum bid for a property its mortgage value?" Tags="|game-design|monopoly|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6857" CreationDate="2012-03-09T17:35:09.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason comes to mind:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping the game short.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monopoly is noted as a long game; when played by the rules as written, it's not overly so — 1-4 hours. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there are points, especially on the first circle through, where the players will not have enough cash to buy everything at mortgage cost, especially Boardwalk and Park Place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the auctions are to get as many properties into player hands as quickly as possible; increasing the minimum bid lengthens the game by slowing this down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the meat of the game is the management once all properties are owned. Getting there quickly prevents the game from stagnating into a 6-8 hour grind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why you shouldn't mortgage properties to buy others if you can avoid it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortgaged properties, by not generating cash exchange, lengthen the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortgaged properties can't be improved, and prevent having houses/hotels on the rest of the color group as well, due to the requirement for balanced development (a difference of 1 house is allowed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mortgaged properties are essentially additional &quot;free parking&quot; spaces unless and until you either are forced to sell them or you hit a tax space or card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should go ahead an mortgage a property if you win a bid you can't afford to complete a color group; mortgage something from a different color group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-03-09T20:40:14.327" LastActivityDate="2012-03-09T20:40:14.327" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6857" CreationDate="2012-03-10T01:58:37.993" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BANKER… Select as Banker a player &lt;strong&gt;who will also make a good&#xA;  Auctioneer&lt;/strong&gt;. A Banker who plays in the game must keep his/her&#xA;  personal funds separate from those of the Bank. When more than five&#xA;  persons play, the Banker may elect to act only as Banker and&#xA;  Auctioneer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many people who play auctions in Monopoly know, starting a typical English-style auction at a $1 minimum bid and allowing increments of $1 each makes for painfully slow auctions, especially for higher value properties.  However, the Auctioneer's primary purpose isn't to make auctions fast, profitable, or even interesting; he's there to sell property.  Selling property moves the game along, and the faster the property gets into the hands of the players, the faster everyone can get to the interesting trading and development part of the game.  There should never be any cases where any property remains on the board after someone lands on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rules explicitly state that the Banker needs to be a &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; Auctioneer.  Any Auctioneer who lets all of his auctions run forever for no good purpose doesn't really qualify as &quot;good&quot;.  Adequate, sure.  Competent, maybe.  But not good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the starting bid, any decent auction will result in the property selling at a reasonable market price; the only variable is how long the auction runs before this price is reached.  If the opening bid is too high, nobody will bid until the Auctioneer lowers it.  If the opening bid is so low that everybody's bidding, he can make larger increments to weed out the cheapskates.  He has many tools at his disposal to figure out what this reasonable market price is, and exactly which tool is needed depends on the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Auctioneer who knows how to control an auction as efficiently as possible to sell property is a good Auctioneer.  An Auctioneer who does nothing but lets his players control the auction is just a Banker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the opening question states, properties will rarely if ever sell at below the mortgage value, if for no other reason than because other players don't want their opponents to get free money.  As such, starting an auction at or near the mortgage price is perfectly reasonable in most situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most situations are not all situations.  There will be cases where nobody actually wants the property at mortgage value; it could be because all cash is tied up in developments, it could be because people are saving up for that last property in a colour group, it could just be because nobody likes utilities.  By having no fixed minimum bid, the Auctioneer thus has the option to sell the property at a loss, &lt;em&gt;just to sell the property&lt;/em&gt;.  That is his job, after all.  Sell property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking one of the tools in his toolbox makes for a less efficient Auctioneer, and we don't want that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chances of all players being unwilling to spend $1 on a property, which they can immediately mortgage for what is effectively a full refund, is negligible; if the price is right, any property should sell.  Fixing a minimum bid in the rules would open up too many chances of a property going unsold, which would inevitably slow down the game each time someone lands on that square and the whole process starts up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even a property that's immediately mortgaged can eventually be paid off and activated, or traded to other players.  An unsold property is just useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-03-10T02:37:52.080" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T02:37:52.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6857" CreationDate="2012-03-10T18:59:47.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeping the Rules Short&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules as written follow the KISS principle. This avoids the necessity of worrying about edge cases where no one is in a position to buy a property without selling houses or other property that cannot be easily recouped by mortgaging the newly Auctioned Property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple strategic play should keep most Auction Property from selling for less than its break even point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-10T18:59:47.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6862" CreationDate="2012-03-11T01:08:39.883" Score="4" ViewCount="1564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Two-Headed-Giant and have a creature with metalcraft. I control 1 artifact and my teammate controls 2. Does my creature's metalcraft ability 'trigger'? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know metalcraft says &quot;if &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; control 3 or more artifacts&quot;, but since THG obscures the idea between player and team so much I'm having trouble figuring our what 'you' refers to in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-20T14:30:44.183" LastActivityDate="2012-10-20T14:30:44.183" Title="How does metalcraft work in Two-Headed-Giant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6861" CreationDate="2012-03-11T01:35:04.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players do not share control of permanents in Two-Head Giant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;strong&gt;with the exception of &amp;quot;attacking player&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;defending player,&amp;quot; all of the referents in THG are the same as regular Magic.&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;You&amp;quot; is you. &amp;quot;Target player&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;target opponent&amp;quot; refer to a single player. &amp;quot;Your opponents&amp;quot; are two players, individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the relevant comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;810.5. With the exception of life total and poison counters, a team’s resources (cards in hand, mana,    and so on) are not shared in the&#xA;Two-Headed Giant variant. Teammates may review each other’s    hands&#xA;and discuss strategies at any time. Teammates can’t manipulate each&#xA;other’s cards or    permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;810.7b Any one-shot effect that refers to the “defending player” refers to one specific defending    player, not to both of the&#xA;defending players. The controller of the effect chooses which one the&#xA;spell or ability refers to at the time the effect is applied. The same&#xA;is true for any one-shot effect    that refers to the “attacking&#xA;player.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any characteristic-defining ability that refers to the &amp;quot; “defending player” refers to one specific    defending player, not to&#xA;both of the defending players. The controller of the object with the&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;characteristic-defining ability chooses which one the ability refers&#xA;to at the time the nonactive    players become defending players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other cases in which the “defending player” is referred to actually refer to both defending    players. If the reference involves&#xA;a positive comparison (such as asking whether the defending    player&#xA;controls an Island) or a relative comparison (such as asking whether&#xA;you control more    creatures than the defending player), it gets only&#xA;one answer. This answer is “yes” if either    defending player in the&#xA;comparison would return a “yes” answer if compared individually. If&#xA;the    reference involves a negative comparison (such as asking&#xA;whether the defending player controls    no black permanents), it also&#xA;gets only one answer. This answer is “yes” if performing the&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;analogous positive comparison would return a “no” answer. The same is&#xA;true for all other cases    that refer to the “attacking player.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T01:35:04.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T02:12:10.977" Score="1" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done several drafts with my drafting group, but we recently elected to try the next one as Two-Headed-Giant instead of a 'normal' matches. How should my drafting strategy change to reflect this? How should my team determine what decks to play? What strategies from 'normal' MTG-drafting apply and do not apply to a THG draft? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, in a THG draft there are 4 teams of 2 players each, at the beginning of each round, each &lt;em&gt;team&lt;/em&gt; (not player) gets a booster, chooses &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; cards from it, and then passes it to the next team. There are 6 rounds instead of 3, so there still ends up being 3 boosters per player. Each player then builds a deck from the cards their team has chosen, and then the matches are played. Communication between players regarding strategy during the draft is acceptable at any time as long as it is public (no passing notes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2022-07-18T15:00:17.923" Title="How should I change my usual draft strategy in a Two-Headed-Giant draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6865" CreationDate="2012-03-11T02:32:11.767" Score="5" ViewCount="2253" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just getting into Two-Headed-Giant games, and have noticed that some cards become far more powerful while others become much less powerful. For instance, landwalk cards become better because your opponents control more land, mass damage prevention cards like fog improve because your opponents attack with more creatures, and cards that require a longer amount of time to work better improve because the matches tend to last a greater amount of turns. On the other hand, weanies become slightly weaker because it's more likely your opponent has at least a few blockers than can kill them off, and cards that counteract a specific color tend to weaken because your opponents are very likely to have other colors that are immune to its effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cards or types of cards become significantly better or worse in THG than in 'normal' magic? How can I recognize a card that will be strongly affected by the switch to THG rules? What factors of THG tend to cause these changes in usefulness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T15:48:05.233" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T15:48:05.233" Title="What cards or types of cards are substantially more/less useful in Two-Headed-Giant than in 'normal' Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6864" CreationDate="2012-03-11T05:01:25.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any cards that care about any aspect of the game that is likely to increase due to there being more Lands, Cards in Hand, Creatures in Play, Higher Life Totals, turns, attack phases, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is just a generalization of course. THG is similar to multiplayer in this respect. Aggro decks don't work as well, and Combo and Control decks get better. Some interesting examples are listed below, but in general you should be looking at cards that count things that there are likely to be more of. Truthfully though, most THG decks are built as two puzzle pieces (unless playing draft/sealed). Cards are specifically chosen to complement the other deck. While generalities are useful, they aren't the whole picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life Totals start at 30, and are shared by both players. Any card that counts Life Totals will behave differently. Some interesting examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{3}{R}{R} {T} - Heartless Hidetsugu deals damage to each player equal to half that player's life total, rounded down.&quot;&gt;Heartless Hidetsugu&lt;/a&gt; - Instantly kill all even life teams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=204989&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{W} Lifelink As long as you have 30 or more life, Serra Ascendant gets +5/+5 and has flying.&quot;&gt;Serra Ascendant&lt;/a&gt; - Starts off with +5/+5 bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be more lands in play, interesting examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=12426&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{1}{R} At the beginning of your upkeep, if there are seven or more lands on the battlefield, sacrifice Impending Disaster and destroy all lands.&quot;&gt;Impending Disaster&lt;/a&gt; - Almost sure to trigger, and cheaper than Armageddon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6049&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{W} When Limited Resources enters the battlefield, each player chooses five lands he or she controls and sacrifices the rest.&quot;&gt;Limited Resources&lt;/a&gt; - Broken for Multiplayer, and bad in THG with decks built to exploit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be more Hands. Interesting examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247531&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;{3}{B} Each opponent discards two cards.&quot;&gt;Unnerve&lt;/a&gt; - 1:4 your opponents isn't bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T23:27:09.413" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T23:27:09.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T07:27:42.547" Score="12" ViewCount="94022" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an attacking creature with Double Strike, if the first strike deals lethal damage to a normal blocking creature, does the normal damage go to the defending player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2610" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:38:42.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T06:23:49.587" Title="What happens if a blocking creature is killed with Double Strike before all the damage is dealt?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6866" CreationDate="2012-03-11T07:45:41.713" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, once a creature is blocked, it remains so even if the defending creature dies. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#blocked_creature&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blocked Creature:&lt;/strong&gt; An attacking creature that another creature blocks or that an effect causes to become blocked. It remains a blocked creature until it's removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. See rule 509, &amp;quot;Declare Blockers Step.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1c.&lt;/strong&gt; A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with Double Strike and &lt;strong&gt;Trample&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stampeding%20Rhino&quot;&gt;Stampeding Rhino&lt;/a&gt; that has gained DS) could deal damage to the defending player, but this is because Trample modifies the normal assigning of combat damage rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:38:38.237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:38:38.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3265" CreationDate="2012-03-11T18:14:50.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll also want to know that once an ability goes on the stack, it still resolves (unless the ability is countered) even if the source is no longer around. For example, the old question was if a Prodigal Sorcerer taps to deal one damage to a Royal Assassin, then the Royal Assassin responds to kill the now tapped Prodigal Sorcerer, which creature dies? It used to be the Prodigal Sorcerer would die, because it was no longer around to deal the damage, but now they would kill each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2613" LastActivityDate="2012-03-11T18:14:50.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-11T23:12:22.203" Score="14" ViewCount="8544" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play an enchantment which gives hexproof on an opponent's creature, whose spells is it protected from?  Does it gain protection from my spells because it's his creature, or from his spells because it's my enchantment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2614" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:20:38.600" LastActivityDate="2023-06-21T00:58:37.710" Title="Hexproof on an opponent's creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6869" CreationDate="2012-03-11T23:30:03.850" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;That depends on how the enchantment is worded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the enchantment actually says &amp;quot;Enchanted creature has hexproof&amp;quot;, like for example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alpha%20Authority&quot;&gt;Alpha Authority&lt;/a&gt;, then the enchanted creature will be untargetable by you after the enchantment resolves, but will still be targetable by your opponent. (Note that the creature having hexproof will not cause the enchantment to fall off.) That's because a creature with hexproof cannot be targeted by spells or abilities controlled by anyone other than the creature's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to equipment such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mask%20of%20Avacyn&quot;&gt;Mask of Avacyn&lt;/a&gt;. (Since you can only equip to creatures you control, this would only be relevant if you had a creature equipped with Mask of Avacyn, and an opponent later took control of this creature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, the enchantment says &amp;quot;Enchanted creature can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control,&amp;quot; then things are a little different. This enchantment &lt;em&gt;appears&lt;/em&gt; to do the same thing, except that in this case &amp;quot;your opponent&amp;quot; refers to the opponent of the enchantment's controller. So it actually has the opposite effect, and allows you to target the creature (since you control the enchantment), but not your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of this is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Canopy%20Cover&quot;&gt;Canopy Cover&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="34686" LastEditDate="2022-07-05T10:13:52.877" LastActivityDate="2022-07-05T10:13:52.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6873" CreationDate="2012-03-12T02:35:42.807" Score="14" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have played three or four games of Carcassonne with varying winners, and fortunately we're all about the same experience with board games in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm beginning to find, however, that our games are being decided by the farm at the end. It is common for thirty or forty points to be decided at the very end. With this in mind, &lt;strong&gt;should I start shifting my strategy toward keeping only one or two followers open&lt;/strong&gt; for quick road/city/abbey completions &lt;strong&gt;and lay down more farmers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2615" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T06:34:25.037" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T12:53:21.840" Title="Should I prefer Farmers or other followers?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6871" CreationDate="2012-03-12T03:10:46.097" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to this question really depends on the state of the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, if there are large farms with lots of smaller cities, then of course you should shift towards laying down farmers early and claim farming territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if there are a few large, unfinished cities which look hopeless, or lots of little farms broken by many roads, then it doesn't make sense to lay down the farmers early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a farm is going to score 9+ points easily, then &quot;quick&quot; cloister/road/city completions are not going going to make up the difference. On the other hand, meeple management is important — if you tie up all your meeples too early, then you could put yourself at a disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T03:10:46.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6871" CreationDate="2012-03-12T03:43:36.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are pretty new to Carcassonne.  It's pretty easy to start playing and have your group think that nearly everything should be finished and the board should look nearly square at the end without many blank holes in the grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this sounds familiar, then yes, there are likely to be big farms and its a good idea to get in early on the farm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could change your style though.  I view every meeple played by my opponents as something to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/787/40&quot;&gt;attacked and stranded&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an opponent plays a farmer, that meeple isn't moving ever again.  You need a good reason to extend that farm in any way.  Play around it.  The next road juncture you play should be positioned to cut off the farm.  Do not play city tiles on the farm.  Just leave it alone! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T03:43:36.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6880" CreationDate="2012-03-12T04:46:51.407" Score="2" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son was gifted this game today. Given that we play a variety of complex games in our family (including Bridge), we're very surprised how much we like it and the various skills it brings into play (probabilistic assessment, poker face, memory, etc.). We're also surprised at how rounds usually end so quickly, as the rules provide for getting to the end of the deck. We have yet to go half way through a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this typical, or are we missing something to the strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our probabilistic reasoning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deck consists of 4 each of 0 through 8, 9 9's, and 3 each of the power cards. So an average dealt hand has 20 points, with 10 points visible (I'm counting the power cards as 5's given that you'll have to draw randomly from the deck at the end for each of these).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A typical starting hand might have a low number and a high number known upon deal. If your first draw is a low number, you replace your high numbered card with that one and then you call for the end of a round. Why? Because you have, say, 5 points on your ends and an assumed 10 points (it's random) in the middle, for perhaps 15 total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have no knowledge of other hands but on average each will be 20, and with one more draw will be reduced by 4 points to 16 (on average). Not a huge edge, but definitely an edge. And this only widens as the sum of your two end cards drops further below 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? Or is it correct to call for the end of the round if the sum of your two end cards is 5 or fewer points after you draw the first card of the round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning gets a little more complicated for subsequent rounds as other players' hands improve, but similarly if you know that 2 of your cards are very low, or better yet 3 within the first few rounds, then you call for an end, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-03-14T01:58:16.113" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T01:58:16.113" Title="Do the vast majority of Rat-a-tat Cat rounds end very quickly?" Tags="|rat-a-tat-cat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6878" CreationDate="2012-03-12T06:06:21.453" Score="2" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the base set of Resident Evil and the Alliance expansion are standalone games, and come with a complete set of the basic resources (Ammunition, Handguns, Knives and Herbs).  I know that the Mansion cards of both sets can be combined and played together if you want a longer game (the Daykiller), but the rules don't appear to specify what to do about the basic resources themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does combining the piles from the two sets unbalance the game?  Should the basic resources from both sets be combined, or only one set used while playing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:19:40.610" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:19:40.610" Title="Should the basic resources from the first two Resident Evil boxes be combined?" Tags="|resident-evil-deck-building-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6871" CreationDate="2012-03-12T13:22:28.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beware of laying too many farmers too early on farms that are quite close to each other, lest cunning opponents join up all your farms so you end up with one farm, which may be quite large, but only scores you the points for the cities once, not for the multiple farmers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND beware of farm 'thieves' - my friend is a master of this - he'll wait until the last 20 or so tiles, then start adding farmers on tiny bits of what look like non-point-worthy sections of field, and then on subsequent moves join them up to MY farms - usually with a 2-point meeple (from Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals expansion) or actually two or more meeple, thus depriving me of my huge farm score I'd been building up the whole game.  The swine! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I released I didn't actually answer the question posed.  I usually use around 3 meeple for farmers during a game, then try deploying any and all remaining meeple as farmers near game end to grab last minute points from any remaining un-farmed fields.  Deploying too many farmers too early on can lead to the above noted things happening, by which time you have little way of gaining any foothold back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastEditorUserId="1704" LastEditDate="2012-03-12T21:38:14.247" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T21:38:14.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-12T15:55:56.963" Score="3" ViewCount="4792" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Great_Dalmuti&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Dalmuti&lt;/a&gt; is a game where you attempt to get rid of your hand, a climbing card game like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tien_Len&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tien len&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asshole_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Asshole&lt;/a&gt;. The deck consists of 80 cards, with different point values. There is one '1', two '2's, three '3's, ..., twelve '12's and two wilds that are '13' unless played with any other card. Rounds consist of the Great Dalmuti or whomever won the last trick laying down any number of cards with the same value. Players in clockwise order can either 'pass' or play the same number of cards as the previous player but of a lower value (i.e. if the first player played three '10' value cards, the next player could play three '9', three '8', etc.), or by playing a larger set of the same value as the previous set of cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player has played the last card from their hand, they score one point for each person they beat, with the last person scoring zero. Going out first or second (becoming the Greater or Lesser Dalmuti) gives another privilege: at the start of the next round, the Dalmutis receive the one or two &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; cards from the Peons (the two players who went out last), while returning any cards from their hand. (The Greater Dalmuti swaps two cards, the Lesser Dalmuti one.) This gives the Dalmutis significantly better hands: they get better cards, and can get rid of singletons that would slow down their hands. It is very important not to go out last, or second to last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing a game to some point value that is quite a few rounds away (lets say 10 or more), what should be your strategy for improving your score? How can you determine if you have a hand that can hold onto control of enough rounds to get rid of your high value cards (in other words, how can you determine if by &lt;strong&gt;go off&lt;/strong&gt; during a turn you will likely improve your seat position or maintain it, instead of ending up going out last).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do you know when to take control, and attempt to get out of the game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the strategy of shooting for first seat get easier/harder with more/less players?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T00:06:48.567" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T00:06:48.567" Title="In the Great Dalmuti, should I be attempting to improve my seat position or shoot for the win?" Tags="|great-dalmuti|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6875" CreationDate="2012-03-12T16:24:11.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bandai.com/residentevil/pdf/RE_RuleBk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Resident Evil:DBG rules&lt;/a&gt; don't specify because you are not supposed to combine the other cards, just the mansion cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Advanced Note 5: The Day-Killer - Feel like Resident Evil™ action all day long? Combine the Mansions from Set 1 and 2 and rejoice in the Infected hunting fun! The game ends when both “Albert Wesker” and “Uroboros Aheri” have been defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is your game, so you can play it however you like. Officially though, you are only supposed to combine the Mansion Cards for the Day-Killer variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what effect this might have, and if it would be any unbalancing, &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common tactic in a four player version of the game it to buy up the &lt;strong&gt;Ammo x30&lt;/strong&gt; (and sometimes &lt;strong&gt;Ammo x20&lt;/strong&gt;) cards before your opponents have the ability to draw into a hand with enough cash to buy those cards themselves. This will deny them from buying the really expensive weapons in a particular 18 pile distribution. If you double the Ammo cards from fifteen to thirty copies, this tactic probably won't be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, there is only one &lt;strong&gt;Burst-Fire Handgun&lt;/strong&gt;, and one &lt;strong&gt;Survival Knife&lt;/strong&gt;. Players with additional buys have a greater chance of picking up those weapons for their own use, or to deny them from other players that might benefit from them more (i.e. &lt;strong&gt;Jack Krauser&lt;/strong&gt;). Having multiple copies of the Survival Knife in the Basic Resources makes it harder to deny Jack Krauser at least one Survival Knife. If Jack happens to get two copies of the knife, things could get even worse. This is of course somewhat balanced by the fact that there are now twice as many regular knifes that Jack has to cycle through before he gets to the special one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other Basic Resources &lt;strong&gt;Green Herb&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Ammo x10&lt;/strong&gt; will have little effect on the game when doubling their number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-12T16:24:11.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6864" CreationDate="2012-03-12T19:10:16.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things that are a bit broken in Two-Headed Giant are things that add phases (e.g. time walk or extra draw steps, or extra attack phases), or do the opposite, like cards that skip phases (e.g. skip your draw step). This is because these effects are effectively doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2620" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T11:20:01.837" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T11:20:01.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6874" CreationDate="2012-03-13T13:09:28.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you should call for and end or &lt;strong&gt;knock-out&lt;/strong&gt; as it is commonly called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your reasoning is sound. With 54 cards in the deck, 9 of which are special non-point cards, and four cards each of 0-8 plus nine 9s, the average hand is 20 points. There in no way of knowing what your opponents hands are worth, except in the rare case that you draw 1 of 3 &lt;strong&gt;peek&lt;/strong&gt; cards and then you draw 1 of 3 &lt;strong&gt;swap&lt;/strong&gt; cards. (In the children's variant, all players two outermost cards cards are revealed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you cannot know what your opponents have, it is best to call for the end of the round when you know that the sum of 2 of your cards is less than 7, or 3 of your cards are less than 12. (&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: My initial calculations didn't take into account that your opponents get to look at one more card, and reduce there score as well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that might change this strategy slightly (and I am not certain if it does change the optimal strategy), is as the number of players increases the chances that one or more of your opponents draws a &lt;strong&gt;Swap&lt;/strong&gt; card during the knockout round also increases. If your opponents &lt;strong&gt;know&lt;/strong&gt; that you are using this strategy of only knocking out when you have &amp;lt; 7, or &amp;lt; 12 when you replace a hidden card with a drawn card, they will be sure to &lt;strong&gt;Swap&lt;/strong&gt; cards with you (most likely they will &lt;strong&gt;swap&lt;/strong&gt; with the card that you drew to replace your other card). They will know that they have a better chance of getting a '4' or less from you, then from drawing from the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for conclusion that each player would take less than six turns on average, I am not certain. I haven't worked out the math for it, but the number of turns on average would differ depending upon the number of players. If there are more players playing with the &amp;lt; 10 points sum total of known cards, then the chances that at least one of those players has a low hand increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This analysis was only performed for the first turn. I suppose you could calculate the AVG number of points that you would reduce your score per turn, and use that to figure out when to go out on later rounds. For the first round, with only looking at 3 cards, you will reduce your points on average by 2.63 points. This result was arrived at by looking at a million random 3 cards from the deck (with wilds removed, so the odds might be slightly different), and choosing the lowest 2 cards to keep for a single player. I did not examine what happens as the number of players increase, but my guess would be that as the number of players increase, the chances that at least one other player is able to reduce their score by more than the average increases (i.e. with two players, it is probable that one player reduces their score by more than 2.63 and the other by less than 2.63. For three players or more, the odds that someone is able to drop a '9' or other high number for a '3' or other low number increases, and that lucky person will have on average less than your total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T16:52:41.267" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T16:52:41.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6877" CreationDate="2012-03-13T17:13:50.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cannot know because TGD is an incomplete-information game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most you can do is look at your cards and try to develop a plan, watch the round as it unfolds, maybe try to analyze your opponents' play style much like in poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to improve your seat order by strategy is to wait for the top seater(s) to make their play and to not waste your good cards by trying to force a win from any hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to get rid of low value singles as often as possible, but without expending too many really good cards. That also depends on luck of course, such as when you get first play because the person to the right finished and nobody outbid his/her last play. Let other players play their 2 and 3 card combos and don't get too involved in those bidding wars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, when you feel the time is right, you take first play by using some of your strong cards and try to overwhelm the remaining opponents with large sets of low value cards. Keep at least one strong card/card combo for each chain of low value combos you can get rid of. Try to remain the first to play and therefore to determine which combo size is going to be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of players should not matter much - as the player count changes, everybody's chance of getting good/bad hands changes accordingly. Even the top seaters should not expect a disproportionate advantage or disadvantage because of player count, because the average hand quality stays the same overall. The card pool stays the same after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for shooting for the win from a low seat position, for me that was always a matter of luck, like getting 2 5+ card combos and some really high cards to take first play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T17:23:13.317" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T17:23:13.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6884" CreationDate="2012-03-13T18:58:34.790" Score="5" ViewCount="24268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a deck many years ago that was blue/white and used a blue enchantment that made players pay 2 colorless to attack.  I can't remember the name of the card, but it was around Mirage, no later than Urza block.  I also had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kjeldoran%20Outpost&quot;&gt;Kjeldoran Outpost&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thawing%20Glaciers&quot;&gt;Thawing Glaciers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main concept of the deck was to get out the mana generating diamonds from mirage, then blow away the lands with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armageddon&quot;&gt;Armageddon&lt;/a&gt; and keep the opponent locked out of attacking for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card is stuck in my head and I can't seem to find the name of it anywhere.  I remember seeing it reprinted as a white enchantment sometime ago as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows what this card might be, please let me know the name.  I have not found anything via searching so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2619" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:55:56.450" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T09:17:54.320" Title="MTG: Enchantments that require opponent to pay mana to attack" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6883" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:07:38.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're thinking of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPropaganda%5d&quot;&gt;Propaganda&lt;/a&gt; from Tempest, which came out right after Mirage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGhostly%20Prison%5d&quot;&gt;Ghostly Prison&lt;/a&gt; is the white version and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCollective%20Restraint%5d&quot;&gt;Collective Restraint&lt;/a&gt; is a close cousin designed for multicolor-happy decks. (There's also the rather terrible &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKoskun%20Falls%5d&quot;&gt;Koskun Falls&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T09:14:53.730" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T09:14:53.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6883" CreationDate="2012-03-13T19:08:48.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right, a version was printed in white. Here's the cards you were thinking of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGhostly%20Prison%5d&quot;&gt;Ghostly Prison&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPropaganda%5d&quot;&gt;Propaganda&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;More options:&lt;/h3&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWindborn%20Muse%5d&quot;&gt;Windborn Muse&lt;/a&gt; - If you want a body not an enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNorn%27s%5d%2b%5bAnnex%5d&quot;&gt;Norn&amp;#39;s Annex&lt;/a&gt; - Could be a weaker or stronger version, depending on your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCollective%20Restraint%5d&quot;&gt;Collective Restraint&lt;/a&gt;- Domain Version. If you play 3+ basic land types, even better.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWar%20Tax%5d&quot;&gt;War Tax&lt;/a&gt; - In late game if you have lots of mana, can really lock your opponents down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPeacekeeper%5d&quot;&gt;Peacekeeper&lt;/a&gt; - Drawback: Also locks down your creatures, has upkeep cost.&#xA;Upside: Hard lockdown.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T09:16:15.767" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T09:16:15.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6887" CreationDate="2012-03-13T20:23:53.903" Score="7" ViewCount="9149" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a card cast using its flashback ability be countered by a spell such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:54:17.300" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:54:17.300" Title="Countering cards played with flashback" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6886" CreationDate="2012-03-13T20:33:43.177" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The only thing that flashback modifies is where the spell is being cast from when paying it's &lt;strong&gt;Flashback cost&lt;/strong&gt; before being put on the stack, and where it goes when it leaves the stack if its Flashback cost was paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.31a Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player’s graveyard and the other that functions while the card is on the stack. “Flashback [cost]” means “You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost” and “If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.” Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-13T20:41:22.317" LastActivityDate="2012-03-13T20:41:22.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2012-03-14T01:35:30.650" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All good answers. I'd add that Munchkin Cthulu's additional rules for &lt;strong&gt;Cultists&lt;/strong&gt; don't work &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; in a two-player game, so skip that set if you decide to try two-player munchkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T01:35:30.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6806" CreationDate="2012-03-14T13:16:37.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course there is still an element of luck in Bridge for the reasons laid out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In pairs competitions there is the luck of the &quot;field&quot;, i.e. what your opponents do against you when they arrive at your table. If they do all the right things, your prospects are limited. However they are still there. The skill is in making the most of your own prospects on a hand. There will always be some hands where the opponents do all the right things, and there you &quot;range&quot; of available scores maybe only between 0 and 25% (at MP). Just ensure you get the 25% and don't end up with the total bottom under some illusion that &quot;it's going to be a bad score anyway&quot;. Those 25MP will add up in the whole total you get at the end of the tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is where your own skill will come in over the course of a lot of tournaments. Of course you'll also throw some points away but assuming you throw away fewer than anyone else, you won't always win but you will sometimes and when you don't you'll probably not finish last very often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other factors that have been mentioned, of course, is that the percentage play or bid is not always the winning one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most games, even ones that are pure skill, have an element of luck. For example tennis is pure skill but you can get a lucky net-cord shot. Similarly you can get flukes at snooker and even at chess, your not-properly-thought-out move could happen to be the right one. Not that you had worked it out, but it just so happens it was. And in a round-robin chess tournament of course with grandmasters, you may play very well in most of your games and still only come away with draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T13:16:37.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6267" CreationDate="2012-03-14T13:36:34.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What they are saying is &quot;don't learn this, yet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need more bridge experience, and you don't want to spend all your time reading books, you need to take it out in practice, go out and play, see what goes wrong, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You learn the game to play it, after all. You want to learn some simple bidding techniques to start off with so you can go out there and play. Playing duplicate is actually the best way to learn, as you then really do get to know when you have scored badly on the hand. With rubber you will probably just blame the luck of the cards. And you won't get the hand print-outs to look at to see what you could have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mastering the competitive auction will do you well and in most books that is sadly neglected. Even in the most complex bidding systems notes, which I personally can never follow myself, there is very little about what to do when the opponents intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact Mike Lawrence once suggested that it is extremely advantageous to open the bidding as much as possible because opponents' methods when the opposition open the bidding are far less discussed than those when they open. Whilst he knows a lot better than me, my own personal style is to keep 1-level opening bids sound and limited exactly so we know where we stand when the opponents enter the auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, to really improve your bidding, learn to recognise situations where:&#xA;- Your partner has made a decision and&#xA;- Your opinion at this point is not sought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner is expecting you to pass then do so. Don't think about it. And certainly if you do think about it, do what partner is expecting you to do. Even if it ends up being the wrong thing this time, it will probably be better for your partnership in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you need to learn is when partner has come into the auction to compete or push them, not to keep on bidding until you get doubled for a large amount. Yes, raise with support if you feel partner wants to know about it, but don't punish partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these and for one, you'll find it easier to keep partners and secondarily, if you master these aspects of competitive bidding you will be a bigger winner at the table, and can work more on improving your card-play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T13:36:34.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2012-03-14T13:53:41.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a vacuum, I will always mine Copper to Silver before Silver to Gold. My reasoning is simple: if I have Mines, Silvers can be further Mined and Golds cannot. Since the short-term gain is one coin for that turn either way, I'd rather not dead-end myself by having a Mine with no actionable treasures later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, the preference is so slight as to be a tie-breaker. Many other circumstances may change my strategy. E.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'll always Mine Gold to Platinum if the option is available, since the two-coin gain can have very useful short- and long-term benefits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Money Lender benefits from having Coppers linger a bit, so if I'm using them, I'll favour Silvers for Mining&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Various other circumstances which other people have already commented on, and which there's no point me rehashing here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-03-14T13:53:41.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2012-03-14T13:53:51.740" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the same issue a while back so I sideboarded&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRatchet%20Bomb%5d&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLux%20Cannon%5d&quot;&gt;Lux Cannon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then so I would get out of the red damage play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVolt%20Charge%5d&quot;&gt;Volt Charge&lt;/a&gt; so I can, if not deal damage to the player, at least kill a creature and put counters on the Ratchet Bomb and/or Lux Cannon. The cannon is best because you can use it over and over again and if you have it in play and have no real threats keep pumping it it says remove 3 counters so you can simply end of his turn remove 3 counters, destroy one permanent, beginning of your turn destroy another one (even lands!). A Lux Cannon is a response to most threats. Its one setback is that it costs 4, and if you don't have Proliferate, it takes 3 turns to pump it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my deck I added more Proliferate, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTezzeret%27s%5d%2b%5bGambit%5d&quot;&gt;Tezzeret&amp;#39;s Gambit&lt;/a&gt; is simply awesome. More than once I played Lux Cannon turn add counter passed next turn two Volt Charge, Proliferate 2 times, turn cannon destroy target permanent &#xA;to finish I have 8 UR dual lands that come into play untapped about 80% of the time,&#xA;so I can play Tezzeret's Gambit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFlashfreeze%5d&quot;&gt;Flashfreeze&lt;/a&gt; sideboarded because if my opponent has red or green he can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNaturalize%5d&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; or Shatter the Ratchet Bomb or Lux Cannon before I can use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2628" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-20T13:43:49.457" LastActivityDate="2019-05-20T13:43:49.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6883" CreationDate="2012-03-14T18:21:00.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the ones mentioned above, there's also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElephant%20Grass%5d&quot;&gt;Elephant Grass&lt;/a&gt;, which unlike the others has a cumulative upkeep (making it harder to keep around), but which trades that for costing just G, making it a perfect card for the Enchantress decks in Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T09:17:54.320" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T09:17:54.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6896" CreationDate="2012-03-15T00:12:40.750" Score="14" ViewCount="16508" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the banding ability was never actually removed from the game, no cards have been printed that use the ability in any set following sixth edition and it has never appeared on any rules summary I've seen from the past several years. Why is this? I've heard it's because the ability was 'too complicated'. What exactly was so complicated about it that might have encouraged its extinction? What is a good situation/example that demonstrates why it was probably exiled from the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bbanding%5D&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;List of cards that reference the banding ability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-03-15T15:42:06.573" LastActivityDate="2018-09-23T00:26:04.073" Title="Why was the banding ability 'removed' from MTG? What was so complicated about it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2012-03-15T02:46:34.237" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take it from &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/pt-br/node/631051&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the horse's mouth&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short explanation of banding is that if your creatures attack or block in a band, the controller of any creatures that deal combat damage to them doesn’t get to assign that damage -- you do. Pretty cool. Everything else about banding, though, elicits a “huh?” It works differently when attacking and defending. (In an attacking band of X creatures, at least [X-1] of them must have banding. In a defending band, only one creature must have banding.) A lone blocker could block multiple creatures if they were banded together. If an attacker with evasion (flying, swampwalk, whatever) is banded to a creature without evasion, the whole band can be blocked. Then it gets really complex: What if the only defensive creature with banding is destroyed before damage is dealt? What if my band of three attacking creatures, one of which has trample, is blocked by your band of three defending creatures, one of which has first strike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only answer I can give you is, “I dunno.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Banding was an ability that was flavorful and simple enough in the simple cases. But when you left the simple cases and got into more unusual situations, the rules suddenly became very complex, unintuitive, and opaque. You wind up with a mechanic that cannot be understood or accurately applied simply by reading the text on the card and applying your general rules knowledge. Instead, you have to know a whole bunch of banding-specific rulings, and hope you have a copy of the comp rules handy if it ever comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And all of this complexity is maintained for a mechanic that rarely actually mattered. I could be wrong, but I don't believe there is &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; card with banding that has &lt;em&gt;ever&lt;/em&gt; been a tournament staple. Under these conditions, the best choice is the one that Wizards made, which is to let banding lay fallow and pretend the whole thing never happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T23:39:28.340" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2012-03-15T14:55:22.837" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current official reminder text for Banding is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Banding &lt;em&gt;(Any creatures with banding, and up to one without, can&#xA;  attack in a band. Bands are blocked as a group. If any creatures with&#xA;  banding you control are blocking or being blocked by a creature, you&#xA;  divide that creature's combat damage, not its controller, among any of&#xA;  the creatures it's being blocked by or is blocking.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's taken them 20 years to distil the &quot;simple explanation&quot; of Banding into &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; - and I bet you still can't  tell what it means without reading it slowly and carefully at least three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards has made it a bit of a rule of thumb, for quite a few years now, to remove complexity from the game where it isn't needed.  Could the game survive with Banding, Phasing, interrupts and mana burn still in it?  Almost certainly.  Is it better off without them?  Again, almost certainly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real nail in Banding's coffin is that you can get a similar flavour out of a much simpler rule.  Take for example the en-Kor ability from Stronghold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;0: The next 1 damage that would be dealt to [this en-Kor] this turn&#xA;  is dealt to target creature you control instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does almost everything Banding did - gives the owner some power to control how damage is assigned to his creatures.  But with the great advantage of not causing your head to explode while trying to calculate how it works in complicated situations!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T14:55:22.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-03-15T17:24:03.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I introduce friends of mine to games, I find that the most important thing is the time cost. People are unwilling to even try games that will take up hours of their lives. As far as I'm concerned, the number one gateway game is &lt;strong&gt;Dominion&lt;/strong&gt;. Others have mentioned it already, but I'll give you a couple of reasons why I love to cajole non-gamer friends to try it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;quick&lt;/strong&gt; - You can get a simple game in within 40 minutes (depending on the supply, obviously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;simple&lt;/strong&gt; - A B C, play an Action, play a Buy, Clear up. Come on, an idiot can understand this game within a half-a-dozen turns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;tactical&lt;/strong&gt; - After the first game, if they're unsure about the hidden complexity of it, just point out how different everyone's deck is, and remind them that you all started with the same small deck, and used the same simple restrictions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;nice&lt;/strong&gt; - One of my biggest failings is that I hate getting brutal with other players (in ALL games). I play games to make friends, not add a number to some hypothetical win column. That's just me, but it's also true of first time players: they don't mind losing, but they don't want to feel victimised, and they don't want to feel like they suffered hugely because they didn't know how to defend against attacks. Since almost all interactions (as of the most recent expansions) affect ALL other players, there's no feeling of targeting or victimisation. (Compare Risk for example, in which all interactions are targeted and deliberate.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if your friends already enjoy charades, Pictionary, Cranium, etc, then you might try a different route: I have a category of games that I think of as good &lt;em&gt;social&lt;/em&gt; gateway games. These are games that don't revolve around over-thinking strategy but in actual face-to-face interaction. Games in this category might include Shadow Hunters (and other Werewolves derivatives), or games like Dixit (conceptually similar to Balderdash and other standard fare, but a nice reminder that These Aren't Your Grampa's Games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the benefit of cooperative games can't be overstated. I introduced a group of friends to &lt;strong&gt;Pandemic&lt;/strong&gt;, which is a great game for increasing complexity. For the first couple of turns, I pretty much took everyone's turns for them, making sure to explain the reasoning you might consider before every action. After a couple of turns, I started &quot;thinking out loud&quot;, suggesting that one or two actions seemed appealing and asking if anyone else had opinions, happily taking whatever decisions the others agreed on (even if I could see gaping logical flaws; learning isn't ALWAYS about winning ;D ). As you release your grip, the opinions come a lot more freely, and by the end, you'll have full-scale discourse about every turn. One thing to note: Pandemic and other cooperative games require a very gentle touch to teach. Accept that you won't win your first game with them, and that mistakes will be made. Over-ruling new players won't make them want to play again any time soon, even if the &quot;team&quot; won in the end!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T17:24:03.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6247" CreationDate="2012-03-15T18:17:46.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: Unless I was playing a variant, I would never consider placing my blank epigon anywhere other than on a board edge.  Having 2 sides that can be attacked at the start of the game seems like a bad way to start things off to me.  I am sure there are some variants where it would be acceptable to have your blank somewhere in the middle, but not for the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2633" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T18:17:46.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6877" CreationDate="2012-03-15T20:16:15.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it's a question of feel. After playing many hands of this (a long time ago) and being a lifetime player of games like Asshole - you just &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; when you can permit yourself to go for the gold, instead of the silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would play conservatively and try and feel out the other leaders and then go for it if I thought their hands were relatively weak. But, in reality, this usually means one or two hands and, as Hackworth said, it's a game with incomplete information - whatever you do, it's going to be risky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T20:16:15.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6808" CreationDate="2012-03-15T20:24:55.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least a few different versions of this packet and they all do something to modify the game play in one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'll have to answer the question with a question: Do you want to &quot;upset&quot; the status quo? If so, open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But an even better question: Are you afraid that it might turn things upside down? If so, definitely open it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're afraid, then that makes the envelope exciting and if the game's becoming humdrum you need to open it too. Otherwise, open it after the 17th game or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-03-15T20:24:55.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6905" CreationDate="2012-03-16T04:01:14.463" Score="5" ViewCount="2469" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend was level 4, and tried to play his &lt;code&gt;Doppleganger&lt;/code&gt; card against a &lt;code&gt;Puckachu&lt;/code&gt;, which grants an extra level for defeating it, &lt;code&gt;&quot;without using help or bonuses&quot;&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Help', apparently, only means other players, and 'bonuses' are weapons, armor, or potions. Bringing in your clone, according to him, means beating it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody agrees. &lt;strong&gt;Is his interpretation correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T14:35:59.623" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T14:35:59.623" Title="Pukachu vs. Doppleganger?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6904" CreationDate="2012-03-16T04:46:37.777" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;He is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Helping&quot; in combat is clearly defined as one and only one other player joining you in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bonuses&quot; are granted by Items (as can be seen from the James Bomb card FAQ entry), or the rule books example of &lt;strong&gt;Mace of Sharpness&lt;/strong&gt; or a Race as in the Warrior ability below. For example, the &lt;strong&gt;Pretty Ballons&lt;/strong&gt; grant a +5 bonus to either the Monster side, or the Player side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/O2X3k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pretty Ballons&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Playing/using a one-shot Item during a combat that aids the munchkins (and not the monsters) does not constitute &quot;helping&quot; in combat, as described in the rules. This means that in any given combat, any number of players can play cards to aid or hinder either side as often as they want, as long as they have the cards. Only one other player can actually join the combat as a helper, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. Does a Psychic still get his +2 &lt;strong&gt;&quot;fighting alone&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; combat bonus if he has a Sidekick? &#xA;  A. Yes. Sidekicks are okay. A Doppleganger is OK. And if another player throws a grenade or something to hurt the monster and assist you, you don't lose your bonus. It's only when another player joins the combat as your helper that you lose your bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. James Bomb says to fight him with only my Level and not my items. Can I use non-item bonuses in the combat, such as those given from trainings? &#xA;  A. That sentence should read &quot;Level only, &lt;strong&gt;no items or other bonuses&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot; So, no, your non-item bonuses would not count. (This is official errata.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Warrior had already discarded a card to get a &lt;strong&gt;+1 combat bonus&lt;/strong&gt;, and then stopped being a Warrior, he would keep the bonus, but wouldn't be able to discard any more cards for the Warrior bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anyone can carry any item, but some items have use restrictions: for instance, the Mace of Sharpnesscan only be wielded by a Cleric. Its bonus only counts for someone who is, at the moment, a Cleric.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To fight a monster, compare its combat strength to yours. Combat strength is the total of Level plus all modifiers – positive or negative – given by items and other cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-16T06:09:33.617" LastActivityDate="2012-03-16T06:09:33.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2012-03-17T17:14:40.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't play Standard American, so this may be not the most valuable answer.  But I can't believe you've read it right if the only two worthwhle responses are 2D and 2NT. Even if you do decide that you are only interested in negative (8- HCP) or positive (9+), that would be an inefficient way of doing it; why not make the positve response 2H, to give you more space?  And no decent player would deliberately forego finding out partner's best suit, unless you have such a powerful hand that you only want to find out whether partner has one particular card before deciding which slam.  (There are bids for this last situation, but I don't propose to discuss them; unless you are already too good to be taking advice from this site, gadgets for situations that rare can only cause trouble). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-03-17T17:14:40.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-18T12:54:03.843" Score="6" ViewCount="9687" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I target a creature as soon as it is played, even with summoning sickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt; If my card, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beguiler%20of%20Wills&quot;&gt;Beguiler of Wills&lt;/a&gt;, reads &amp;quot;Gain control of target creature,&amp;quot; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dungeon%20Geist&quot;&gt;Dungeon Geist&lt;/a&gt;'s &amp;quot;tap target creature opponent controls,&amp;quot; can I gain control or tap a creature my opponent just played? I have a friend arguing I can't, because they're in summoning sickness, but I thought that just stopped their tap-ability and attacking for the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2645" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:52:41.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:52:41.047" Title="Can a creature with summoning sickness be targeted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-03-24T01:43:45.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-18T13:03:03.100" Score="5" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent sealed queue I entered, my opponent had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Seizer&quot;&gt;Soul Seizer&lt;/a&gt; on the board, and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cackling%20Counterpart&quot;&gt;Cackling Counterpart&lt;/a&gt; in his hand. Soul Seizer has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Soul Seizer deals combat damage to a player, you may transform it. If you do, attach it to target creature that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if my opponent targeted the Soul Seizer with his Cackling Counterpart, and then damaged me with the token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:09:43.997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:09:43.997" Title="Copying Soul Seizer" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-18T14:11:33.383" Score="3" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6874/do-the-vast-majority-of-rat-a-tat-cat-rounds-end-very-quickly&quot;&gt;Do the vast majority of Rat-a-tat Cat rounds end very quickly?&lt;/a&gt;, optimal play leads to rounds ending quickly with a small number of players. Is this true when playing with 5-6 players? I just played my first 5 player game yesterday and did not enjoy a similar level of success when employing that strategy. Consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one thing, the chance that an opponent will draw a power card is no longer very small, which matters a little for a draw 2 and matters a lot for a swap. But more importantly, if someone else is likely to call for the round to end, why not just wait and get your extra turn? Of course, if you were thinking to call for the round to end, you may not have visible cards that can be improved all that much anyway . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2018-04-07T02:01:42.023" Title="How does Rat-a-tat-cat strategy change as the number of players increases?" Tags="|rat-a-tat-cat|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2012-03-18T14:16:41.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right. The &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; thing that summoning sickness prevents is using the creature's own tap ability or attacking. You are allowed to target a just-summoned creature with spells and abilities. You're also allowed to enchant it, to sacrifice it, to attach Equipment to it, and to block with it. You can even tap it if the tap ability belongs to a different spell or ability, such as if you have an ability that includes in its cost, &quot;Tap 2 untapped creatures that you control.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-03-18T15:01:27.237" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T15:01:27.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6909" CreationDate="2012-03-18T14:56:56.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/157b#5&quot;&gt;this official article on double-faced card rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect copies a double-faced card, it copies the characteristics&#xA;  of whichever face is currently showing. It doesn't copy any&#xA;  characteristics of the other face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only objects that can transform are cards that physically have two&#xA;  faces. If a token or a card with a regular Magic back is instructed to&#xA;  transform, instead nothing will happen. Even if a token or&#xA;  non-double-faced card is a copy of one face of a double-faced card, it&#xA;  can't transform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent used his Cackling Counterpart to copy a Soul Seizer, he'd&#xA;better hope he had a good use for a plain old 1/3 Flyer, because that's all&#xA;he was going to get!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T14:56:56.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6908" CreationDate="2012-03-18T17:50:23.090" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can target a creature with Summoning Sickness. Summoning Sickness only prevents creatures that you haven't controlled since the start of your turn from attacking or using activated abilities with {T} (Tap) or {Q} (Untap) in their activation cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;Summoning Sickness Rule *&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Informal term for a player’s inability to attack with a creature or to activate its abilities that include the tap symbol or the untap symbol unless the creature has been under that player’s control since the beginning of that player’s most recent turn. See rule 302.6. See also Haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.6. The untap symbol is {Q}. The untap symbol in an activation cost means “Untap this permanent.” A permanent that’s already untapped can’t be untapped again to pay the cost. A creature’s activated ability with the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. See rule 302.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-03-18T21:45:56.290" LastActivityDate="2012-03-18T21:45:56.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6917" CreationDate="2012-03-19T01:17:55.247" Score="12" ViewCount="48426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Example 1) Let's say I have some random creature with protection from white, and my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgment&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;, a white card with the effect &amp;quot;Destroy all creatures.&amp;quot; Can my creature with protection from white be destroyed by a white card that isn't actually targeting it specifically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 2) I was playing a match with a friend where I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elite%20Inquisitor&quot;&gt;Elite Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt; on the field against his 3 zombies. Is he able to declare his zombies as blockers even though Elite Inquisitor has &amp;quot;protection&amp;quot; from zombies?  If he can declare them as blockers, does protection mean that no damage is dealt by the zombies to  Elite Inquisitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T03:39:58.103" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T16:11:57.480" Title="What does protection from [quality] do?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6915" CreationDate="2012-03-19T02:00:35.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it can.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, Protection from &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; on a creature means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature can't be targeted by &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; spells or abilities from source with &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can't be blocked by &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage from &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; sources is prevented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auras with quality &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; on that creature are destroyed, equipments with quality &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; fall off (but are not destroyed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Day of Judgment or similar cards do not target any creatures, and they deal no damage. Therefore, Protection would not protect that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15. Protection&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15a Protection is a static ability, written &amp;quot;Protection from [quality].&amp;quot; This quality is usually a color (as in &amp;quot;protection from black&amp;quot;) but can be any characteristic value. If the quality happens to be a card name, it is treated as such only if the protection ability specifies that the quality is a name. If the quality is a card type, subtype, or supertype, the ability applies to sources that are permanents with that card type, subtype, or supertype and to any sources not on the battlefield that are of that card type, subtype, or supertype. This is an exception to rule 109.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15b A permanent or player with protection can't be targeted by spells with the stated quality and can't be targeted by abilities from a source with the stated quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15c A permanent or player with protection can't be enchanted by Auras that have the stated quality. Such Auras attached to the permanent or player with protection will be put into their owners' graveyards as a state-based action. (See rule 704, &amp;quot;State-Based Actions.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15d A permanent with protection can't be equipped by Equipment that have the stated quality or fortified by Fortifications that have the stated quality. Such Equipment or Fortifications become unattached from that permanent as a state-based action, but remain on the battlefield. (See rule 704, &amp;quot;State-Based Actions.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15e Any damage that would be dealt by sources that have the stated quality to a permanent or player with protection is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15f Attacking creatures with protection can't be blocked by creatures that have the stated quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15g &amp;quot;Protection from [quality A] and from [quality B]&amp;quot; is shorthand for &amp;quot;protection from [quality A]&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;protection from [quality B]&amp;quot;; it behaves as two separate protection abilities. If an effect causes an object with such an ability to lose protection from [quality A], for example, that object would still have protection from [quality B].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15h &amp;quot;Protection from all [characteristic]&amp;quot; is shorthand for &amp;quot;protection from [quality A],&amp;quot; &amp;quot;protection from [quality B],&amp;quot; and so on for each possible quality the listed characteristic could have; it behaves as multiple separate protection abilities. If an effect causes an object with such an ability to lose protection from [quality A], for example, that object would still have protection from [quality B], [quality C], and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15i &amp;quot;Protection from everything&amp;quot; is a variant of the protection ability. A permanent with protection from everything has protection from each object regardless of that object's characteristic values. Such a permanent can't be targeted by spells or abilities, enchanted by Auras, equipped by Equipment, fortified by Fortifications, or blocked by creatures, and all damage that would be dealt to it is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15j Multiple instances of protection from the same quality on the same permanent or player are redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T02:05:58.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6915" CreationDate="2012-03-19T03:07:26.197" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Day of Judgement will destroy a creature with Protection from White. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from &lt;strong&gt;AlexP&lt;/strong&gt;) No, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElite%20Inquisitor%5d&quot;&gt;Elite Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt; cannot be blocked by Zombies. Elite Inquisitor can, block Zombies normally. If a Zombie would assign combat damage to him, it is prevented and he takes no damage instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection from {quality}, grants four different things that can be easily remembered from the acronym, DEBT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures with Protection from {quality} cannot be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; amaged, by sources with that quality (the damage is prevented).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; nchanted / &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; quipped / Fortified, by cards with that quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; locked, by creatures with that quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; argeted, by spells or abilities from sources with that quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T01:36:20.250" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T01:36:20.250" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="6918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-19T11:56:23.927" Score="5" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I.e. with which expansion map is it easiest to initiate many newbies to the game of Age of Steam while playing a five or six-person game and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an answer, which I'll post in a few days (to give someone else a chance to post it first), but I'll &quot;accept&quot; the one that has the most votes after a week or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T07:17:43.723" Title="Which Age of Steam map is best to use for an initiation to the game for 5 or 6 players? Why?" Tags="|age-of-steam|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6910" CreationDate="2012-03-19T12:42:38.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't my answer yet, just some observations. I might take a stab at creating a computer simulation that can be easily customized with different numbers of players, different player strategies, and possibly different rule sets (children's variant where the outermost cards are public information, and perhaps a reverse of the normal rules where the outermost cards are only known to player whose hand they are in, but the innermost cards are known to every other player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the entire draw deck has been gone through once:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a 2-player game, the highest known card for each player will be a '1'. This will occur if both players have '0's in their hidden cards. All 54 cards (minus 8) will be drawn when the draw pile is exhausted, and players will always discard either a known higher card for a lower card, or a random unknown card for a (0-4). This isn't counting the 3 peek cards being drawn either, but it is likely that players will discard unknown random cards at least when a drawn card is higher than their known cards but 4 or less, since an unknown card is worth '5' on average. This unknown random card is discarded face up for their opponent to take, so eventually all low cards will be claimed by the end of the draw deck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a 5-player game, the highest know card for each player will be a '4'. With 5 players, you can use the same reasoning as in the 2-player game. By the end of the draw deck, all the low cards will have been taken into players hands (4 zeros, 4 ones, 4 twos, 4 threes, and 4 fours).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the reasoning above, we can see that &lt;strong&gt;Power Cards&lt;/strong&gt; in hand are actually worth more than '5' on average as then number of cards are drawn. In a 5 player game, if the discard pile gets reshuffled into a new draw pile a hidden Power Card is worth 7.4 on average.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the reasoning above, I believe it is also true that at least one player will knockout after the draw pile has been exhausted (or slightly before). At that point, a player should know exactly which cards are in the draw pile, so they will know if they can reduce their score further (they will also know how many swap cards are in the draw deck).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player discards a known card, we know that the card that the face up card they discarded was greater in value than the card they kept. This might be helpful in determining how many points we think an opponent has. (i.e. If an opponent discards a '9' card, we only know that the card that they kept is less than or equal to 9 and their total known score could be as high as 9+9=18. If they discard a '5' though we know that the card that they kept was less than or equal to 5 and their 5 was most likely their &lt;strong&gt;highest value card&lt;/strong&gt; (discarding the highest known card, or an unknown card if the difference between the known card and kept is less than the AVG difference between an unknown card and kept card is optimal play. We cannot rely on this information since a player may not be playing optimally, but it should be the best move in most games.). Their total known score is no higher than 5+5=10). If we track exactly which cards are being discarded, and each card that is kept we can gain extra information about our opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game can end in several different ways, depending upon the End Game condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play for a certain number of rounds. - Hopefully, the number of rounds is divisible by the number of players. The first player has the greatest incentive of knocking out, since if they knock out each other player has only taken as many turns as they have. The last player has the least incentive of knocking out, since if they do, each other player will have taken one more turn than they have. Strategy for this end condition will vary slightly as the number of rounds until the last round gets nearer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play for a specific length of time. - This is a poor choice of ending condition. Players in the lead can effectively stall the game to keep their lead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play to stay in the game and not reach 100 points. When a player &#xA;reaches 100 points, he is out of the game. The last player in the game is &#xA;the winner. - The Strategy for this end condition will vary slightly as a players point total nears 100 points. A player will probably not knockout when they are more likely than not to be out of the game. It would also depend upon what happens when all remaining players lose at the same time (all players have 100+ points). Do all players draw? Does the player with the fewest points win? Do the players play a final hand? The strategy will differ according to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T13:07:14.707" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T13:07:14.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6863" CreationDate="2012-03-19T14:37:55.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as changing your strategy goes--it really depends on which sets you are drafting as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sliver based draft strategy can be quite powerful in 2HG, if that's an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then you have to ask exactly what you and your partner's game plan is going to be--it may be in your best interest to build one very good deck and mediocre one, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2647" LastActivityDate="2012-03-19T14:37:55.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6922" CreationDate="2012-03-19T16:07:12.453" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_npm_sec.asp?eidm=61&amp;amp;esem=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Horned Rat&lt;/a&gt; expansion add to the game? How is play different to the original?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-03-19T16:46:54.573" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T19:06:51.513" Title="What does the Skaven-themed expansion to Chaos in the Old World add?" Tags="|chaos-in-the-old-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6921" CreationDate="2012-03-19T17:46:22.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rats are interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are actually very well balanced to my opinion. While giving more locations for Korne to attack, the rat king can &lt;em&gt;easily&lt;/em&gt; kill korne's units if he pleases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They don't really ruin a region considerably faster, but seem to be balanced in their ability to score points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said I'd play with the default 4 powers if I only had 4 people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the expansion adds more difficult old world cards, as well as alt decks for the normal powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My players haven't liked the alt-decks, except the alt-korne one (you're supposed to use all of the alt decks or nothing). We haven't tried the more difficult old world cards (which are supposed to make mutual loss much more likely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2648" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T19:06:51.513" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T19:06:51.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6924" CreationDate="2012-03-19T21:22:36.567" Score="6" ViewCount="15966" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm playing a game of 2HG, and I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227064&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tribute To Hunger&lt;/a&gt;, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target opponent sacrifices a creature. You gain life equal to that&#xA;  creature's toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I get to pick which opponent has to sac a creature, or do I cast it at them (being my two opponents) and they pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:15:32.350" LastActivityDate="2019-11-28T16:20:58.970" Title="What happens if you cast a card that says &quot;Target Opponent&quot; in Two Headed Giant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6923" CreationDate="2012-03-19T22:37:14.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Two-Headed Giant game has 4 players, two of which are your opponents. When you cast a spell, you choose a legal target, in this case one of your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;810.1. Two-Headed Giant games are played with two teams of two players each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T17:38:53.897" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T17:38:53.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6926" CreationDate="2012-03-20T01:41:40.803" Score="6" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my initial expectations I'd expect otherwise, but I was recently told at a tournament that an activated &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213731&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; that had been the target of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214065&quot;&gt;Tezzeret, Agent of Bolas&lt;/a&gt;' -1 ability (&quot;Target artifact becomes a 5/5 artifact creature.&quot;) would cease being a vanilla 5/5 artifact at the end of the turn when &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=213731&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt;' ability ends. I was planning on using Revoke Existence, but my plans were quashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this correct? Without looking at layers or anything, I'd assume appears &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214065&quot;&gt;Tezzeret, Agent of Bolas&lt;/a&gt;' ability (which is persistent) would remain active after Inkmoth Nexus' ends, and that on the next turn it would remain a vanilla 5/5 artifact creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:14:00.933" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:14:00.933" Title="What happens to an Inkmoth Nexus that has had Tezzeret, Agent of Bolas' -1 ability used on it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6925" CreationDate="2012-03-20T03:05:21.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoever gave you the ruling was mistaken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2011/02/how-inkmoth-nexus-and-tezzeret-agent-of-bolas-interact/&quot;&gt;According to level 4 judge Chris Richter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;the Inkmoth Nexus will remain a 5/5 artifact creature land but will lose flying, infect, and its Blinkmoth subtype after the turn ends.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more details on what happens afterward:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the turn ends, the animation effect from the Inkmoth Nexus will&#xA;  end. When this happens, the Nexus will be become a 5/5 artifact&#xA;  creature land. This Nexus will still have the normal abilities of an&#xA;  Inkmoth Nexus, the mana ability and the ‘animation’ activated ability,&#xA;  as well. But this permanent will not have flying or infect at this&#xA;  point. This is because Inkmoth Nexus’ animation ability has a duration&#xA;  that lasts until the end of turn, while the animation effect from&#xA;  Tezzeret’s ability does not. The animation effect from Tezzeret’s&#xA;  ability will last as long as that permanent remains in play. If no&#xA;  other effects are applied, then this Nexus will look like this (a 5/5&#xA;  artifact creature land with Nexus abilities) for the rest of the game&#xA;  or as long as this Nexus remains in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, you may just want to use additional animation effects on this&#xA;  Nexus for strategic reasons. If the Inkmoth Nexus’ animation activated&#xA;  ability resolves again, then this permanent will become an 1/1&#xA;  artifact creature land with both flying and infect. It is a 1/1&#xA;  creature again for the same reason as why it became a 5/5 earlier, the&#xA;  power and toughness setting portion of the Nexus’ effect is applied in&#xA;  timestamp order and overrides Tezzeret’s effect that makes it a 5/5.&#xA;  And, just as earlier, you can use Tezzeret’s ability again as well.&#xA;  Doing so will make this permanent into a 5/5 creature with both flying&#xA;  and infect. Then, as before, at the end of turn when the Inkmoth&#xA;  animation effect wears off it will become a 5/5 artifact creature&#xA;  land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-03-20T03:14:19.533" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T03:14:19.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6696" CreationDate="2012-03-20T11:47:07.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel there really two things that need to focus on in Khet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first is overall board position. You want to create a situation where you have multiple pieces capable of attacking at any given moment, but haven't actually lined up the shot on the main pharaoh. For example, keeping two mirrors positioned on opposite sides of a target, so that when you're able to move an intermediate piece, you have a better chance at an opportunity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other thing I really look at is misdirection. Playing in such a way that an opponent can't determine what direction an attack is coming from is perhaps the easiest approach to this strategy, such as mixing your moves between defense, attack and a few &quot;nonsense&quot; moves (moving pieces that aren't part of your actually strategy in vaguely threatening positions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few articles on BoardGameGeek regarding this topic as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/161000/beginning-middle-and-endgame-thoughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beginning, Middle and Endame Thoughts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/192711/opening-moves-for-the-classic-set-up&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Opening Moves for Classic Setup&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="89" LastActivityDate="2012-03-20T11:47:07.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24090" CreationDate="2012-03-20T16:49:09.737" Score="11" ViewCount="3681" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you construct a path from a ladder to an end card with a blue or green door in the path, the end card is flipped. If the card is the gold, all dwarves on that colored team (blue or green) win, as does the boss and profiteer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if you construct a path from a ladder to an end card while &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; doors are in the path?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T04:24:20.183" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T18:39:12.543" Title="What happens if you reach the gold with both (blue and green) doors?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6935" CreationDate="2012-03-20T16:54:55.937" Score="4" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you create a path to the gold with a blue door in the way, and there are no blue dwarves, no boss, and no profiteer, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T05:34:34.787" Title="What happens if nobody wins?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2012-03-21T03:52:33.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a child that young, I'd suggest No Stress Chess.  You begin by taking a card each turn that describes one of the pieces and how it moves.  You then have to move one of those pieces.  You win when you capture the opponent's king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the child gets the hang of how all the pieces move, there are transition games giving you more autonomy until you graduate to regular chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2654" LastEditorUserId="2654" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T22:45:31.770" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T22:45:31.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6931" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6932" CreationDate="2012-03-21T03:55:41.763" Score="14" ViewCount="2403" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect not, because the rule on Eradicating Disease states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From now on, cards of this color have no effect when drawn on the&#xA;  Infector's turn. Take all of the cubes of the eradicated color and&#xA;  place them back in the box - they will not be used again for the rest&#xA;  of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Epidemics do not occur during the Infector's turn, and the Epidemic rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take the bottom card from the Infection Draw Pile and add 3 cubes to&#xA;  the city pictured on the card, then place the card into the Infection&#xA;  Discard Pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more rules in this section but none of them clarify whether there is an exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't know which of the two rules the game designers intended to take precedence. So I would like a definitive answer to the question: For the bottom card drawn during epidemic, are 3 cubes added to the city pictured, when the disease in that city's region has already been eradicated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T01:36:47.210" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T01:36:47.210" Title="Bottom card drawn during epidemic: Are 3 cubes added to the city pictured, when the disease in that city's region has already been eradicated?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6931" CreationDate="2012-03-21T04:42:11.110" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further clarification isn't needed. Under the &lt;strong&gt;Eradicating a Disease&lt;/strong&gt; section you quoted (&lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt; mine), the rules instruct you to put the cubes away, they will not be used for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a cure for a given disease has been discovered and all of the disease cubes of that color have been removed from the board, ﬂip the Cure marker for the disease to the “Sunset” side. From now on, cards of this color have no eﬀect when drawn on the Infector’s turn. &lt;strong&gt;Take all of the cubes of the eradicated color and place them back in the box—they will not be used again for the rest of the game&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to this rule would be from the &lt;strong&gt;Pandemic: On the Brink&lt;/strong&gt; expansion Virulent Strain card Hidden Pocket, where it is possible for a disease that has been eradicated to come back.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mn5t3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;If the Virulent Strain has been eradicated and at least one city of its color is in the Infection Discard Pile, flip its marker to cured and add 1 cube to every city of its color in the discard pile.  Otherwise, ignore this event.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T01:17:34.100" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T01:17:34.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6928" CreationDate="2012-03-21T05:30:59.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game designer, &lt;strong&gt;Frederic Moyersoen&lt;/strong&gt;, discusses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6675274#6675274&quot;&gt;answer to that question on BGG&lt;/a&gt;. Essentially, only the Boss wins &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a path with a blue and green door, the boss is the only player who can win through this path (4 points). This can be a winning strategy for the boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T05:30:59.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6929" CreationDate="2012-03-21T05:34:34.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game designer, &lt;strong&gt;Frederic Moyersoen&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6675274#6675274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discusses the answer to that question on BGG&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a path with a blue door, the blue gold-diggers win (and not the green). If there are no blue gold-diggers, no profiteur and no boss, &lt;strong&gt;nobody wins&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T05:34:34.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6848" CreationDate="2012-03-21T17:27:01.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Dies&amp;quot; just means &amp;quot;goes to the graveyard from the battlefield.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Did another Zombie do that, for any reason? Then the Diregraf Captain's ability will trigger. Doesn't matter why the creature is going to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the full definitions, if you're interested in the specific wording:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.6. The term dies means &amp;quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.&amp;quot; It is used only when referring to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly into its owner's graveyard. A player can't sacrifice something that isn't a permanent, or something that's a permanent he or she doesn't control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn't destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can't affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes-relevant corner cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tokens disappear when they leave the battlefield, but they still count as going to the graveyard, so you do get Captain triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diregraf Captain does &amp;quot;see&amp;quot; any Zombies that die at the same time that it does. So, if you have a Diregraf Captain and two other Zombies on the battlefield, for instance, your opponent will lose 2 life when he kills them all with Day of Judgment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a &lt;em&gt;replacement effect&lt;/em&gt; (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205013&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt;'s ability) makes it so that a Zombie you sacrifice never goes to the graveyard in the first place, the Captain's ability won't trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Dies&amp;quot; normally refers to creatures, but if you somehow had a non-creature permanent with the Zombie subtype (like some kind of Zombie &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152648&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bitterblossom&lt;/a&gt;) go to the graveyard, the Captain's trigger would still apply as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T17:27:01.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6940" CreationDate="2012-03-21T20:14:46.827" Score="6" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when an &lt;strong&gt;undying&lt;/strong&gt; creature dies being dealt damage by a creature with &lt;strong&gt;first strike&lt;/strong&gt; in a combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262681&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nearheath Stalker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; blocks an &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/85.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abattoir Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and dies will he deal combat damage after returning to the battlefield? Will Abattoir Ghoul die after this battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:10:16.800" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:28:29.710" Title="Undying vs first strike" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2012-03-21T20:40:00.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Stalker won't be dealing any combat damage this turn.  When a creature changes zones, it is removed from combat.  (In addition, any time a creature leaves the battle field and comes back it is considered a new game object in terms of the rules.  It generally has no memory of its previous state, such as &quot;I was blocking that.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T20:40:00.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2012-03-21T20:44:27.423" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the creature returned to the battlefield by undying is considered a new creature because it changed zones (two times, from battlefield to graveyard and then back from graveyard to battlefield). It's not in combat, and won't deal combat damage to Abattoir Ghoul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. &lt;strong&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;  There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule has some exceptions, but undying isn't one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2012-03-21T20:44:27.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6960" CreationDate="2012-03-21T22:07:12.787" Score="2" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game of Chaos in the Old world today and I came close to winning as Nurgle, whilst trying to win via ticks on my counter. The thing is, I only came close to winning via VPs, and my ticks were fairly bad. I also nearly won via VPs in another game as the Horned Rat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering I seem to be doing something right to win that way (and I got some fairly solid advice about winning via ticks), how can I finish it off and assert my victory point victory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-03-21T22:31:03.663" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T19:17:10.067" Title="How should I plan for a VP win as Nurgle?" Tags="|chaos-in-the-old-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6959" CreationDate="2012-03-21T22:29:21.543" Score="4" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chaos in the Old World is a game about stomping all over your opponents, either by dominating regions or killing them off! Khorne is particularly good at the latter, requiring to spill much blood to the blood god to win. This was an issue for me, playing as Nurgle as my precious lepers kept being killed and harshing my ability to lay down corruption. I can imagine it'd be an issue for anyone else too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I protect myself from Khorne? What is his weakness, and how can I exploit it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-03-22T16:30:56.297" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T11:35:49.937" Title="How do I save myself from Khorne?" Tags="|chaos-in-the-old-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6958" CreationDate="2012-03-22T01:09:00.507" Score="0" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most dominion players notice early on that different kingdom sets have GIGANTIC effects on how the game ends up being played. This also means that some games will end fairly quickly, while others will go on longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Dominion kingdom-card setups tend to lead to the &lt;strong&gt;longest&lt;/strong&gt; games when all players are trying to win? What kingdom-cards specifically tend to contribute most to making games longer? Feel free to give specific setups if you like, but I'm also interested in what cards/combos make for longer games and why/how they do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get that a player in the lead should try to end the game and win as soon as possible, making very long games highly unlikely, but there is still a strong variation in game length due to the cards used and I'm curious what cards tend to be in the setups that are toward the longer end of the spectrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6944/what-dominion-kingdom-card-setups-tend-to-lead-to-the-shortest-games&quot;&gt;What Dominion kingdom-card setups tend to lead to the SHORTEST games?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T14:19:46.937" Title="What Dominion kingdom-card setups tend to lead to the longest games?" Tags="|dominion|play-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-03-22T15:33:23.687" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T01:13:07.117" Score="0" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most dominion players notice early on that different kingdom sets have GIGANTIC effects on how the game ends up being played. This also means that some games will end fairly quickly, while others will go on longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Dominion kingdom-card setups tend to lead to the &lt;strong&gt;shortest&lt;/strong&gt; games when all players are trying to win? What kingdom-cards specifically tend to contribute most to making games end sooner? Feel free to give specific setups if you like, but I'm also interested in what cards/combos make for shorter games and why/how they do this. For instance, some cards sets encourage players to try for an early lead and then end the game on piles before their opponents can catch up, while some card sets tend to favor strategies where players build up an extremely powerful deck until they get to a turn where they churn out 20+ victory points. What cards cause dominion games at the shorter end of the spectrum to be that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6943/what-dominion-kingdom-card-setups-tend-to-lead-to-the-longest-games&quot;&gt;What Dominion kingdom-card setups tend to lead to the LONGEST games?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T14:16:38.407" Title="What Dominion kingdom-card setups tend to lead to the shortest games?" Tags="|dominion|play-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-03-22T15:31:55.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-22T01:22:59.103" Score="6" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Swindler: +2 Coins, Each other player trashes the top card of his deck and gains a card with the same cost that you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent has played a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=blackmarket&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;+2 Coins, Reveal the top 3 cards of the Black Market deck. You may buy one of them immediately. Put the unbought cards on the bottom of the Black Market deck in any order. (Before the game, make a Black Market deck out of one copy of each Kingdom card not in the supply.).&quot;&gt;Black Market&lt;/a&gt; and now the top card of their deck is a 4-cost card they purchased with it. There are no cards in the kingdom set that cost 4, and I play my Swindler. My opponent trashes the 4-cost card from the top of his deck, but what, if anything, does he gain since there are no other 4-cost cards in the kingdom set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T04:00:22.793" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T04:00:22.793" Title="What happens when I play a Swindler and no cards with the same cost as the trashed card are in the kingdom set?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-promotional|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6945" CreationDate="2012-03-22T01:37:58.610" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always in Dominion, you do as much as you can of what the card instructs. Since there is no card to gain that has the same cost, your opponent gains nothing. You still trash the card that was turned over because you can do that part of the card's instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T01:37:58.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6949" CreationDate="2012-03-22T02:53:08.000" Score="10" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much what it says on the tin--when you're drawing, say, 5 flood cards and there are 4 tiles left in the game, are you supposed to keep shuffling and re-drawing one of those 4, thus automatically sinking one tile per turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2657" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T13:08:38.533" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:08:38.533" Title="How do you handle drawing more flood cards than there are tiles on the board in Forbidden Island?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6954" CreationDate="2012-03-22T03:31:00.497" Score="1" ViewCount="2552" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my apartment there tend to be 3 of us wanting to play board games regularly, and we're fond of strategy games. Unfortunately, 3 is not the optimal number for most of the more interesting ones that we've come across.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're familiar with Carcassone, Cataan, and Forbidden Island, but we've been wondering if there are games that are more towards the Quorridor, Blokkus, etc style of game that are somewhat quicker to play and where moving and/or placing pieces is the main part of the game. And, for that matter, if there are games like this that explicitly work optimally with 3 people (We've tried 3 person Blokkus and it's messy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2657" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T13:07:40.637" Title="What interesting 3-player strategy games are available?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-03-22T15:43:35.763" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6947" CreationDate="2012-03-22T04:48:53.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamewright.com/gamewright/pdfs/Rules/ForbiddenIslandTM-RULES.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; page 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When the Flood Draw Pile Runs Out&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Flood draw pile ever runs out, immediately shuffle the Flood discard pile and stack the cards face down to form a new Flood draw pile. If this happens in the middle of a turn, continue drawing Flood cards as necessary from the new pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T04:48:53.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6951" CreationDate="2012-03-22T06:03:53.743" Score="5" ViewCount="12657" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand the &lt;strong&gt;undying&lt;/strong&gt; ability, a creature returned to the battlefield by its undying effect with a +1/+1 counter on it is considered a new object. Due to this it &lt;strong&gt;cannot attack&lt;/strong&gt; if it returned to the battlefield on my turn &lt;strong&gt;anytime before the combat phase&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T17:15:53.457" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T17:15:53.457" Title="Does a creature returned by the Undying effect have summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:22:59.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6950" CreationDate="2012-03-22T06:25:39.140" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with undying returned to the battlefield would have summoning sickness.  Undying does not provide an exception to the general rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;302.6&lt;/strong&gt;. A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you noted, the Undying creature returns as a new creature and thus has not been under its controller's control continuously since the the turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T06:25:39.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6943" CreationDate="2012-03-22T08:42:21.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, any card that denies opponents their resources (i.e. cards in hand) or pollutes their decks (e.g. curses) makes for a longer game because it is more difficult to buy victory point cards for lack of money or just forces an interaction that requires a decision in your opponent (i.e. this increases the time, not necessarily number of hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Militia - reduces all opponents to three cards, also increases time by a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bureaucrat - forces all opponents to put one of their victory point cards on top of their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spy - cycles through good cards in opponent decks, leaving until only a victory point cards or useless card is left on top, also just increases time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thief - trash or steal opponent treasure cards, also just increased time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Witch - adds useless cards to opponent decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T08:42:21.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6948" CreationDate="2012-03-22T08:50:09.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1041/san-marco&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Marco&lt;/a&gt; - it's an older title but it is one of the best puzzle-ish &quot;euro-style&quot; games with three players (not as good with four).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T08:50:09.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6948" CreationDate="2012-03-22T09:38:25.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really, really recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31627/ticket-to-ride-nordic-countries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: Nordic Countries&lt;/a&gt; as an interesting and balanced three player game. Its unique selling point, over the other Ticket to Ride games, is that it is specifically designed for three! You can play a two-player variant, but you can't for four or more. So you're &lt;em&gt;genuinely&lt;/em&gt; getting a game that works best for three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other game that is universally acclaimed to be amazing, and is very good for different number of players, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Agricola&lt;/a&gt;.  Agricola gives you a different initial board layout for three players, and has many Occupation cards that are specially designed for 3+ players (in addition to the standard ones for 1+ players, and some for 4+ players).  You really feel like the designer paid lots of care and attention to making sure the game would work amazingly for 2 and 3 player games, as well as for larger groups.  (And indeed there's even a serviceable solitaire option!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T09:38:25.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6948" CreationDate="2012-03-22T11:28:24.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3/samurai&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Samurai&lt;/a&gt;. To be honest I haven't played it all that much yet (~10 games) but it feels like a game that's easy to learn but has depth in it. It plays best with 3 or 4 players. You can play it in a few different ways: with random placement, random tiles or chosen by players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T11:28:24.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6948" CreationDate="2012-03-22T13:07:40.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by 'like Blokkus' you mean an abstract, then I recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39406/talat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Talat&lt;/a&gt;.  A game of balancing focus between two opponents.  I've only been able to play it a handful of times, but have enjoyed it more every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another quick recommendation if you want to play something with a variety of player (3 player included) would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/a&gt;.  I love playing this game.  One thing that I continually enjoy about it is how differently it plays with different numbers of players.  The 2 player variant creates the most strategic game, while 3 players uses the normal game rules, but creates a big game of risk when deciding which cards to pass (since you will see each hand more than once).  Always ready to recommend 7 Wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2658" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T13:07:40.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6944" CreationDate="2012-03-22T14:16:38.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kingdom setups with +Buy, gain free cards, tend to end on piles instead of Provinces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Workshop, Garden&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ironworks, Great Hall&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Goons&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Smugglers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Werehouse, Treasure Map&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T14:16:38.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6943" CreationDate="2012-03-22T14:19:46.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alex in Paris is correct that cursing/attacking kingdom sets do tend to lead to long games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variety that tends to lead to long games is kingdom sets that include good &quot;engine&quot; combos, particularly non-terminal ways to draw more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like Laboratory, Menagerie, Crossroads, Caravan, Stables, and Hunting Party can easily lead to everyone having a deck that draws dozens of cards per turn.  These games don't take a long time in terms of number of turns (if everyone has a good engine piles will disappear quickly, in fact) but everyone's individual turn ends up taking a long time as they draw more cards they have to make decisions about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there's less draw power, players can decide what they'll do in advance and turns are quick.  When they have unknowns (the next 10 cards they draw) things take longer, especially if the combos are tricky and require a lot of thought about the &quot;correct&quot; order to play the cards.  King's Court and Throne Room combined with &quot;engine&quot; cards can particularly lead to lots of slow decision-making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, including Platinum and Colony will usually make a game slightly longer as players are slightly more likely to spend time building a deck that can buy Platinums and then Colonies rather than focusing on Provinces or rushing Duchies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T14:19:46.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6942" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:14:08.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everybody needs to team up on Khorne, at least at the start. If he gets powerful early, he's hard to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Khorne's biggest weakness, as I see it, is that he goes first. Early on, you should be able to spend some low-cost cards and force him to make his moves first. Then, put your lepers elsewhere. If he gets on the same space as you, see if you can move off it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this practice, my groups generally manage to keep Khorne in check. You'll still lose a few lepers, but as long as he's not double-ticking his dial, you should be able to tick yours or dominate for points. Later on, he'll be a spread-out unstoppable killing machine, but usually the game ends before that will cause you undue worry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T19:14:08.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6941" CreationDate="2012-03-22T19:17:10.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nurgle's general best winning strategy seems to be to go for VPs, not ticks. Khorne goes for ticks, and the other 3 go for either or depending. (This is actually suggested in the rules, near the end in a 2-page spread about strategy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: dominate all you can partake in every ruination. Those provide the big points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2012-03-22T19:17:10.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6961" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-22T20:26:06.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Description&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crokinole is a tabletop dexterity game commonly played by 2 or 4 players. Crokinole is played by players taking turns &quot;flicking&quot; wooden discs from the perimeter to the center of a Crokinole board.  Points are awarded after each round based on the position of discs remaining on the board.  Discs remaining closest to the center are awarded more points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9jfkv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Crokinole Board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crokinole&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipment&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board dimensions vary with a playing surface typically of polished wood or laminate approximately 27 inches (690 mm) in diameter. The arrangement is 3 concentric rings worth 5, 10, and 15 points as you move in from the outside. There is a shallow 20-point hole at the center. The inner 15-point ring is guarded with 8 small bumpers or posts. The outer ring of the board is divided into four quadrants. The outer edge of the board is raised a bit to keep errant shots from flying out, with a gutter between the playing surface and the edge to collect discarded pieces. Crokinole boards are typically octagonal or round in shape. The discs are roughly checker-sized, slightly smaller in diameter than the board's central hole, and often have concave faces to reduce sliding friction. Alternatively, the game may be played with ring-shaped pieces with a central hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gameplay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crokinole is most commonly played by two players, or by four players in teams of two, with partners sitting across the board from each other. Players take turns flicking their discs from the outer edge of their quadrant of the board onto the playfield. Shooting is usually done by flicking the disc with a finger, though sometimes small cue sticks may be used. If there are any enemy discs on the board, a player must make contact, directly or indirectly, with an enemy disc during the shot. If unsuccessful, the shot disc is &quot;fouled&quot; and removed from the board, along with any of the player's other discs that were moved during the shot.&#xA;When there are no enemy discs on the board, many (but not all) rules also state that a player must shoot for the centre of the board, and a shot disc must finish either completely inside the 15-point guarded ring line, or (depending on the specifics of the rules) be inside or touching this line. This is often called the &quot;no hiding&quot; rule, since it prevents players from placing their first shots where their opponent must traverse completely though the guarded centre ring to hit them and avoid fouling. When playing without this rule, a player may generally make any shot desired, and as long as a disc remains completely inside the outer line of the playfield, it remains on the board. During any shot, any disc that falls completely into the recessed central &quot;20&quot; hole is removed from play, and counts as twenty points for the owner of the disc at the end of the round, assuming the shot is valid.&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crokinole&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Scoring occurs after all pieces (generally 12 per player or team) have been played, and is differential: i.e., the player or team with higher score is awarded the difference between the higher and lower scores for the round, thus only one team or player each round gains points. Play continues until a predetermined winning score is reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2562" LastEditorUserId="2562" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T02:08:21.997" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T02:08:21.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6962" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-22T20:26:06.410" Score="0" Body="Crokinole is a tabletop dexterity game commonly played by 2 or 4 players. Crokinole is played by players taking turns &quot;flicking&quot; wooden discs from the perimeter to the center of a Crokinole board.  Points are awarded after each round based on the position of discs remaining on the board.  Discs remaining closest to the center are awarded more points." OwnerUserId="2562" LastEditorUserId="2562" LastEditDate="2012-03-23T02:08:23.150" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T02:08:23.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6918" CreationDate="2012-03-23T07:04:25.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have had multiple successes introducing the game with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/8845/age-of-steam-expansion-2-western-us-and-germany&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Germany map&lt;/a&gt; in large groups and no failures (so far).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failure, in this case, would be someone that doesn't understand the game enough to be able to identify &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; they lost or won. (Although, a friend of mine has a block on the game in general - she finds it too difficult and can't fathom ever winning.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The greatest feature of the map that enables this success is the removal of one rule. Namely, the ability to construct unfinished links. I.e., all players must always connect both ends of the track they lay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of this rules tweak, in addition to various long-distance destinations (foreign terminals) being abstracted (tiles adjacent to them costing 6 to 12$), is that newbies cannot begin making a whole class of mistakes with far reaching negative consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, they know connecting to Lyon will cost them, at least, 14$ - they don't have to start building it this turn, see that they don't have the money they need next turn and abandon the track they already laid to the next lucky player with a few dollars to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say the map is boring for experienced players, there are still many possibilities to block (probably more, since the longest distance a link may have is three) and the board becomes quite crowded with more than four players so the newbies will still be developing the skills to cope with the game's challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All being said, I don't know any other map that plays so well and simply with as many players. (The base Rust Belt map is still a good map to use, to teach the game, when playing with three or four, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T07:04:25.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6970" CreationDate="2012-03-23T14:16:13.707" Score="34" ViewCount="6116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a standard formula or procedure for determining suggested (or minimum) age requirements for games? Or do a few game designers just sit around and discuss for a few minutes and then just come up with a best guess? What criteria are used, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because we (my Wife and I and son who just turned 7) can't make sense of the age recommendations for some games. The latest was Pandemic, which my son bought with his own money. Required age? 13+. Neither the rules nor the strategy are all that hard. I played a vastly more complicated game (both rules and strategy) as a teenager, Squad Leader, whose recommended age was about the same: 14+. Meanwhile, Rat-a-tat Cat has a suggested minimum age of 6+. Though the graphics of this last game are clearly aimed for kids, the strategy is sophisticated  (think of it as a starter game for poker) and the rules have enough nuance that we kept finding new ways we hadn't got the rules right until the 4th read (though perhaps this could be attributed to poorly written rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would especially love to see answers from professional game designers or people who have discussed this issue with game designers but if none are available I'm happy to hear from game enthusiasts who have thought about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T04:08:58.627" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T16:08:29.063" Title="How do game designers come up with suggested (or minimum) age requirements for games?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6966" CreationDate="2012-03-23T14:59:22.210" Score="7" ViewCount="3295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a Phantom creature, one with the ability &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;If damage would be dealt to Phantom {Creature}, prevent that damage. Remove a +1/+1 counter from Phantom {Creature}.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;,  that has taken damage from a creature with deathtouch get destroyed, or just lose a +1/+1 counter? (Example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantom%20Centaur&quot;&gt;Phantom Centaur&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2661" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T17:09:59.997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T17:09:59.997" Title="Does deathtouch kill Phantom creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2012-03-23T15:06:43.040" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about the Phantom {Creature} series of cards from Judgment and some other sets (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=34932&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phantom Flock&lt;/a&gt;), a creature with the following ability would not be destroyed (and would only have a counter removed) if damage was assigned to it from a creature with deathtouch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If damage would be dealt to {creature name}, prevent that damage. Remove a +1/+1 counter from {creature name}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because while damage has been &lt;em&gt;assigned&lt;/em&gt;, the ability prevents that damage from actually being &lt;em&gt;dealt&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant comp. rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.2b&lt;/strong&gt; Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature's toughness. See rules 510.1c - d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;615.6.&lt;/strong&gt; If damage that would be dealt is prevented, it never happens. A modified event may occur instead, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can't be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note - it is possible for there to be unpreventable damage (with something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205018&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leyline of Punishment&lt;/a&gt;). In this case, the following rule applies (as well as a ruling on Phantom {Creatures}:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;615.11.&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects state that damage &amp;quot;can't be prevented.&amp;quot; If unpreventable damage would be dealt, any applicable prevention effects are still applied to it. Those effects won't prevent any damage, but any additional effects they have will take place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=34932&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;10/4/2004&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;   If unpreventable damage is applied to this card, you still remove a counter even though the prevention fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen under that circumstance is that the trigger for damage prevention would still fire, removing a counter. However, the deathtouch damage would not be prevented, and would be considered lethal, destroying your Phantom {Creature}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T15:15:00.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6965" CreationDate="2012-03-23T15:10:56.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A phantom creature dealt damage by a deathtouch creature is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; destroyed. That's because the &quot;phantom&quot; ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If damage would be dealt to this creature, prevent that damage. Remove a +1/+1 counter from this creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key words there are &lt;em&gt;prevent that damage&lt;/em&gt;. A creature with deathtouch &lt;em&gt;never deals damage&lt;/em&gt; to the phantom creature, and therefore the phantom creature is not destroyed, but loses a +1/+1 counter as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T15:10:56.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2012-03-23T15:14:02.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In reality a passed out deal on the first round should not be reshuffled and redealt. The reason it is done is that people pay table-money to play in a tournament and want to play the requisite number of boards with card-play as well as bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore people feel &quot;ripped off&quot; if a board gets passed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a duplicate pairs contest, a board that is passed out will score 0 for both sides and will therefore you will beat any pairs going minus with your cards and lose to any going plus. If the scoring is match-points, this will determine where you are placed in the field, just as with any other board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T15:14:02.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3093" CreationDate="2012-03-23T17:21:15.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that your statement concerning the combination of the cards is fairly accurate. If I had to do it, I think I would come up with the same result (except the last point that I will develop). But as it has been said, this variant has some drawbacks :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the chances of an attack by adding 3 offensive cards (Witch, Magician, Diplomat) out of 7. In my experience, I love Citadels for everyone want to avoid the dreaded attack at the wrong time that will ruin your game. Increasing the number of offensive cards is not a good point. Again, this is only my opinion, and I have never tried this variant. You may argue that this could be slightly compensated by adding the Artist and the Queen, but you then have to decide how you know that the Queen is next to the King (placement of characters in a player's own courtyard).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Modifying the balance between colors. Of course, if you have 4 red buildings, it will be very risky to choose the red characters, but if several players manage to focus on one of the two new &quot;unbalanced&quot; colors, the game will simply shift towards a game of luck : whoever manages to get a huge amount of coins then take the &quot;cards&quot; characters. This is like in the normal game, but will become slightly more hectic (which is not bad per se) and lose some balance in the colors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The King/Emperor, according to me, loses all interest because of the combos for the other two colors (and the fact there are more green buidings). It may depend on the rule for distributing the characters on the next turn of course. As I see it, you have two options : you make players choose a first time for their first character and then a second time. What you can do to reinforce the power of the King is make players choose both characters at the same time, but I'm concerned about the general balance of this method.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To avoid the conflict with the King, one could propose that the Emperor picks in Second whatever place he's at. It would also help solving point 1 by adding a non-agressive card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, I would say this variant is certainly interesting but would create some minor balance issues that can be solved by some tricks that I mentionned. But it would be interesting to hear from people that actually have tried something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2662" LastActivityDate="2012-03-23T17:21:15.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6964" CreationDate="2012-03-23T18:53:15.480" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, there are three factors to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reading level required to read the rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thematic &amp;amp; graphical content.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Difficulty of play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three are highly subjective, and vary widely by nation, but the least so is reading level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are good algorithms for reading level calculation used in education; they generally hold up well. They include specific vocabulary lists, particular sentence structure hierarchies, and subject matter hierarchies. The average high school textbook, for example is usually written to a 6th or 7th grade reading level, as that makes it more inclusive. (It also renders it boring as hell to those with more advanced reading levels.) For American Standard English, MS Word has an evaluator.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thematic content is much harder, but generally, the 12+ label is for games with no commonly objectionable material. 15+ is usually material that, if in films, might qualify for the PG13 or NC17 ratings now (the old R rating, back in the day). 18+ is used for anything explicitly sexual, and is the only &quot;objective&quot; requirement one - sexual images (&quot;Pornography&quot;) are ages 18+ by law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T02:50:20.193" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T02:50:20.193" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6964" CreationDate="2012-03-24T02:44:02.740" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/blogpost/4098/links-more-gen-con-2011-reports-cpsia-update-does&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6820212&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, the government has a role in labeling of products that can be used by children, and that 13 is the youngest recommended age you can put without doing additional testing (though sometimes even that is not sufficient). The lower the age, the more robust the testing required, particularly for things recommended under age 3. The rules were different when Squad Leader came out, which could be why it says 14+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb in the industry seems to be to put the highest age you can that you don't think will adversely impact your marketing. For Pandemic, this is pure speculation, but if it were me, I would assume that any parent who's OK buying a game for their family in which you can lose and the world's population will succumb to disease either knows their children well enough to know if they can handle it or doesn't really care about theme in games (either way, 13+ probably wouldn't scare them either). Gamewright's core demographic is parents of young children, and they're sold in more mainstream stores than Z-Man Games (generally speaking), so it would make sense that they'd want Rat-A-Tat-Cat to be listed as young as reasonably possible to actually play the game, even if they aren't getting the most out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastEditorUserId="2259" LastEditDate="2012-03-24T16:08:29.063" LastActivityDate="2012-03-24T16:08:29.063" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6701" CreationDate="2012-03-25T11:46:44.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pegged 26 points in a three hand game.  I kept ace ace 2 2.  I led ace, then ace, ace, ace, for 12, then king, 9, I played 2, then 2, 2, 2 for 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2667" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T11:46:44.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6974" CreationDate="2012-03-25T18:40:41.663" Score="9" ViewCount="3413" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just recently started playing Dominion. The rules say you can count remaining cards, but not in your deck or discard. I was wondering if it would be legal to keep tally marks on paper for specific card draws - both for my cards and an opponents. This might need to just be a house rule, unless it is specifically forbidden. And of course you still might miss something, throwing your count off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T17:07:26.143" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T17:07:26.143" Title="Is card counting allowed in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6973" CreationDate="2012-03-25T18:59:40.767" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you missed something in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player is allowed to count how many cards are left in his deck, but not in his discard pile. A player may not look through his deck or his discard pile. A player may look through the trash pile, and players may count the number of cards left in any pile in the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I typed this from my copy of the Intrigue rules; it looks like it says the same thing in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;the original rules&lt;/a&gt; - it's in the Additional Rules section in both.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... you can do exactly what those rules say. If you want to do anything else, that's up to you and the people you play with. It seems pretty clear that keeping track of your discard pile on a sheet of paper is equivalent to counting it. Donald X would seem to agree, saying that &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=876.msg13689#msg13689&quot;&gt;using a notebook&lt;/a&gt; to keep a tally of score is not officially endorsed by the rules. (Thanks to Rob Renaud for providing that link!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-03-25T21:31:59.000" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T21:31:59.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6973" CreationDate="2012-03-25T21:43:00.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many games but especially in a game like Dominion - where the play is meant to be fast and furious - it's really against the spirit of the game to be doing so much to keep track of everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other great games out there that are &quot;thinkier&quot; (Race for the Galaxy, for one) but Dominion is meant to be low overhead - enjoy it for what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-03-25T21:43:00.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2012-03-26T00:46:06.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yahoo Games&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised no one's mentioned that &lt;a href=&quot;http://games.yahoo.com/games/login2?page=go&amp;amp;ss=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yahoo&lt;/a&gt; has Go - there's consistently around 100~200 people on.  It's a good place for English beginners to play, and there's even some higher-rated players if you're up for a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T00:46:06.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2012-03-26T11:56:05.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We found that adding 2 additional kingdom card supplies per additional player over 4 also helps to balance the game out more. Use the standard rules for a 3 or 4 player except that you add additional kingdom cards. You will need 3 estates per player but we found that the blank cards provided in the sets can be used for extra estates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2671" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T11:56:05.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6979" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-03-26T15:42:12.727" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T15:42:12.727" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T15:42:12.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6980" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-03-26T15:42:12.727" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-03-26T15:42:12.727" LastActivityDate="2012-03-26T15:42:12.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6982" CreationDate="2012-03-26T21:23:15.993" Score="1" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many 1, 2, and 3 fish tiles are in the Traders and Barbarians expansion and Traders and Barbarians 5-6 Player extension? The most I've garnered from various web sites is that there are 20 fish tiles total in the base expansion and 14 more fish tiles in the extension, but I would like a breakdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T04:43:52.800" Title="How many of each fish does Traders and Barbarians have?" Tags="|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6981" CreationDate="2012-03-27T14:02:41.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://catan.wikia.com/wiki/Fishermen_of_Catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World of Catan Wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/359014/catan-traders-barbarians&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this base game photo&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/750616/catan-traders-barbarians-5-6-player-extension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this expansion photo&lt;/a&gt;  from BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base game (Total 30 tokens):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;29 Fish tokens:&#xA;  11 1-Fish&#xA;  10 2-Fish&#xA;  8 3-Fish &#xA;1 &quot;Old Shoe&quot; token&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expansion (Total 14 tokens):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;14 Fish tokens:&#xA;  4 1-Fish&#xA;  5 2-Fish&#xA;  5 3-Fish&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T07:37:17.870" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T07:37:17.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5051" CreationDate="2012-03-27T15:03:37.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have some programming knowledge, you might try to make a computer version of your game.&#xA;The difficulty and time needed for this task depends heavily on the mechanics of your game; you might be able to program only part of it (in a reasonable time).&#xA;The advantage of this approach is that once the core program is written, modification of the game mechanics can be implemented and tested quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing is made easier and quicker this way. For instance, if your game involves cards, you can easily try dozens of drawing schemes, while shuffling a physical deck takes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing maps on a computer also makes it easier to make modifications at a later stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be a program that can be of assistance in this task, but I do not know of any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2676" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T09:03:31.163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T09:03:31.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6985" CreationDate="2012-03-27T20:37:31.393" Score="20" ViewCount="2065" Body="&lt;p&gt;Part of what makes Settlers of Catan both balanced and exciting are two sets of slow-the-leader rules: The robber and trade embargoes. While this means you have a chance to win even after a slow start or a seemingly poor starting position, it conversely means it can be difficult to close out the game for victory after having a great starting position, making many great tactical decisions, and having the lead for most of the game. The most extreme example I've seen is the leading player with 8 victory points lose to a player who had 4 victory points, 10 to 9, as everyone successfully and almost completely stalled out the leader for many turns. Much more common are games where someone reaches 8 or 9 points first goes on to lose to someone with 2 fewer victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there one (or a small set of) end play technique(s) that significantly increase(s) one's chances of winning when faced with opponents who competently employ slow-the-leader techniques?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T06:33:46.710" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T06:33:46.710" Title="What is optimal end play in Settlers?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6984" CreationDate="2012-03-27T21:56:45.757" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my (amateur, non-tournament) experience, hoarding a couple of dev cards is the strongest protection against disruption by other players in the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the hidden Victory Point cards, you can use Monopoly, Year of Plenty, Road  Building, and sometimes even Soldier cards to unexpectedly snatch up the final point or two that you need to seal up the game. Good players, of course, won't just ignore your dev cards, but they still don't know exactly what you're going to do to win (e.g. build up, build out, claim Longest Road, build a single extra settlement and then plop down two VPs in cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, unlike resource cards, dev cards are safe in hand. The only game mechanic that discourages stockpiling development cards is the one-card-per-turn limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One downside of this late-game plan is that some opponents may overvalue your dev cards, leading them to punish you with &quot;slow-the-leader&quot; tactics even when you're already rather behind. Another is that the cards you draw are random, so it's quite possible you'll &quot;whiff&quot; and get something you can't use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-03-28T01:15:13.683" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T01:15:13.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6984" CreationDate="2012-03-27T22:05:09.977" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plan your last few VPs with resources you can gather yourself. For example, if you have decent wheat and ore resources, build your extra villages before your towns. That way when you have only the cities left to build and are a VP or two away, you can finish off on your own power without trading. Obviously ports can increase your versatility in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2649" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T22:05:09.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6989" CreationDate="2012-03-27T22:41:57.077" Score="7" ViewCount="4968" Body="&lt;p&gt;An opponent plays a storm combo, ending in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tendrils%20of%20Agony&quot;&gt;Tendrils of Agony&lt;/a&gt;. In response I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angel's Grace&lt;/a&gt;. After the storm of Tendrils finishes resolving, I am at -10 life, but I have not lost the game because of the Angel's Grace effect. If I take one point of damage (from something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=City%20of%20Brass&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What will my resultant life total be?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2599" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:06:15.953" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:06:15.953" Title="Can Angel's Grace set your life total to 1 when you have Negative Life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6987" CreationDate="2012-03-27T23:34:47.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a weird case like this, it's best to consult &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=110504&quot;&gt;the Oracle rulings&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we're in luck, since this situation is covered directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If your life total goes below 1, being dealt damage will not increase it back up to 1.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, according to the official rulings, damage from City of Brass can't &quot;reduce&quot; your life total to a higher number than its current value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the remaining question is: does your life total stay -10 or become -11? My best guess (and it is a bit of a guess, to be honest) is that your life total becomes -11 because the &quot;instead&quot; just doesn't apply at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-03-27T23:34:47.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6984" CreationDate="2012-03-28T04:46:09.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, an optimal strategy does exist. What that optimal strategy would be though, would depend upon when your opponents start to slow the leader. Let's assume that in your group that your opponents begin attempting to slow the leader at 8 VP. Your best approach then would to make sure that you are self sufficient by 7 VP, and have some defense against the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Self sufficiency can be obtained by controlling a 3:1 port, or by controlling a 2:1 specific resource port, although the latter is more susceptible to Robber disruption.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Robber defense is best accomplished by trading Ore, Grain, and Sheep for development cards. The rules, if I remember them correctly allow you to use a development card before you roll, so you should have at least one uninterrupted resource roll. If all your opponents are always moving the robber over your developments, make sure to block their Ore, Grain, and Sheep production to reduce the number of Knight development cards moving the robber. The nice thing about all your opponents buying Development cards, is that it makes it easier to ensure the 7- cards necessary for the Knight 2VP bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T04:46:09.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6995" CreationDate="2012-03-28T13:49:51.557" Score="8" ViewCount="3618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I overlooked the following when reading the rules, but I don't recall these questions being addressed in the two-player advanced rules for 7 Wonders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the free city build its wonder, or must it only build cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the free city do if it can't afford to build anything, since it isn't allowed to discard for coins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T01:29:05.477" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T01:29:05.477" Title="Advanced two player rules clarification for 7 Wonders" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-28T13:54:03.663" Score="6" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;When attacking from a region into another region, do supporting units from territories connected to the region the attackers are coming from count toward their total strength? Or is it only supporting units from regions connected to the defender's region? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2678" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T16:53:59.707" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T16:53:59.707" Title="What regions count towards support of another region?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6992" CreationDate="2012-03-28T14:41:14.290" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is taken from page 12 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/a_game_of_thrones_the_board_game/media/agotbgrules.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you move one or more of your units into an area containing units from another house, a battle will ensue &lt;strong&gt;once you have completed all your movement from that March order.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you move into such an area, you are considered the attacker, and the opponent currently occupying the area you entered is considered the defender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support can only be given to the area in which the battle takes place, and only if you have a Support order adjacent to the embattled area.  Since the March order is played out to completion &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the battle starts, the only embattled area would be the area that the attacker moved into (i.e., the defender's area).  The concepts of &lt;em&gt;attacker&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;defender&lt;/em&gt; don't even apply until after you've moved into this area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is explicitly clarified in page 18 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;second edition rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reminder: Support can be granted only from an area containing a Support Order that is adjacent to the embattled area.  Do not confuse the embattled area with the area the attacking March Order was assigned to (and from which the attackers marched).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T14:41:14.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6984" CreationDate="2012-03-28T15:08:17.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoarding development cards and developing self-sufficiency, as mentioned by other answers, are two good common strategies I've seen employed often in Settlers. They do work, but a highly cooperative defense can stop even a fairly self-sufficient leader with 1-2 random development cards. Sometimes these will be the only options available to the leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've found that &quot;sneak  attacks&quot; work even better, when they are available as an option. What all sneak attacks have in common is that you purposely do NOT take the lead, but rather stay just a point or two behind the leader or perhaps convince other people that even though you're tied for the lead that the other person is more likely to win. Then, when the right circumstances hit, you leap to victory on a turn where you start with only 6 or 7 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of ways to do this. Here are some more common ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold off using a Monopoly card even if you get it very early in the&#xA;game. Wait for exactly that right moment when there are many of one&#xA;resource that you can monopolize and efficiently convert into several&#xA;settlements/cities/dev cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold off using a Road Building card until it results in you getting longest road and a new settlement all on the same turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold off using a Year of Plenty card until you happen to have a card combo in your hand where employing it results in a 3 victory point turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a couple roads that go off to horribly unproductive locations - but are nonetheless potential settlement sites. Many people automatically assume you'll never build there - but you will on the turn it vaults you to victory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes people have a hard time seeing how your disjoint road network can turn into a longest road by closing certain loops. This one is actually the most common type of successful sneak attack for me - people often have no clue that I can take the longest road with just 2-3 more road links closing 1 or 2 loops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to spend many turns defending against endless robber attacks and overly cooperative trading, you may or may not win no matter how good you are. On the other hand, if you time a sneak attack right, you just win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-03-28T16:09:11.127" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T16:09:11.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6991" CreationDate="2012-03-28T16:18:29.197" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, the free city can take any action a 'normal' player can take with a restriction on discarding cards for money. The free city CAN build a wonder. In fact, a good strategy for the third city is to use it to bury cards your opponent might want, e.g. by building the wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The free city CAN also discard a card for money, but only if no other playable card is available. Therefore, if the city has no playable cards, you can choose a card to discard and the free city gains the coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Rules are here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rprod.com/en/7W-rules.html&quot;&gt;http://www.rprod.com/en/7W-rules.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T16:18:29.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="6998" CreationDate="2012-03-28T17:41:14.833" Score="10" ViewCount="9002" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was to play 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=118908&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sidewinder Slivers&lt;/a&gt; would the 'All Slivers have flanking' ability stack causing creatures blocking my Slivers to get -2/-2 until the end of the turn or would it gain flanking twice but the second instance has no effect so creatures blocking my Slivers only get -1/-1 until the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2661" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T16:53:17.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:05:25.207" Title="Does the flanking provided by Slivers stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6996" CreationDate="2012-03-28T17:50:48.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each sliver will have 2 instances of Flanking. Since those are triggered abilities, each instance will trigger, go to the stack, and resolve separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T17:50:48.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6996" CreationDate="2012-03-28T17:52:56.800" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flanking is a triggered ability, so it can trigger separately for every instance of the ability that the creature has.  This is ever so slightly different than just giving -2/-2.  When your creature is blocked two abilities go on the stack, each one to give the blocker -1/-1.  The end result is indeed that the blocker ends up with -2/-2, but there are some various corner cases you could create with certain cards where it matters!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB: You can tell it's a triggered ability because it starts with the magic words &quot;When, Whenever, or At.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T17:52:56.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="6999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6996" CreationDate="2012-03-28T17:58:35.173" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each instance of Flanking triggers separately.&lt;/strong&gt; After the stack resolves, creatures blocking will have -2/-2 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.24. Flanking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.24a Flanking is a triggered ability that triggers during the declare blockers step. (See rule 509, &quot;Declare Blockers Step.&quot;)&#xA;  &quot;Flanking&quot; means &quot;Whenever this creature becomes blocked by a creature&#xA;  without flanking, the blocking creature gets -1/-1 until end of turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.24b If a creature has multiple instances of flanking, each triggers separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:05:25.207" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:05:25.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6923" CreationDate="2012-03-28T17:59:58.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you do have to choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Two-Headed Giant has 2 heads, you have to choose a TARGET head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by opponent, you should read &quot;any player not on your team&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastActivityDate="2012-03-28T17:59:58.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-29T02:49:08.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Brood War expansion of Starcraft introduces the idea of the Scenario Game Mode, which basically comprises a pregenerated galaxy setup with special victory conditions.  Often, playing scenarios provides a more enjoyable (or at least quicker) alternative to playing the normal game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the rulebook for the expansion only provides four Scenarios, each with its own particular requirements for number of players.  This puts a significant limit on my options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designing my own scenarios is of course a possibility, but due to the time and effort involved, and the inescapable fact that some other avid gamer out there has inevitably done it already, I pose the following question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does there exist, somewhere on this wide vast internet of an Internet we call home, any  collection of further Scenarios which can be used to augment the playing experience?&lt;/strong&gt;  Ideally these should be at least somewhat balanced and play-tested, of course, but I'm desperate enough to play anything really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than a few posts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/1188/starcraft-the-board-game/variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the BGG forums&lt;/a&gt;, randomly interspersed among what is a clear majority of non-Scenario variants and house rules, my own searching has come up with naught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2020-04-06T10:48:55.407" Title="Where can I find more Brood War scenarios?" Tags="|house-rules|variants|starcraft|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7008" CreationDate="2012-03-29T03:43:00.703" Score="14" ViewCount="6051" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several people I've met play Settlers of Catan with the house rule &quot;you may not build anything that isn't a knight next to the robber&quot;. As far as I can see, it's not in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify: this means that you can't place a road, settlement or city next to the robber. When we play, city improvements and the merchant are unaffected. On the rare occasion we combine with seafarers, we say the robber prevents land building, and the pirate prevents ship building/movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually prefer this variant, but this question isn't about that. My question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where did this rule come from? Was it in an earlier version of the rules, or was it used for some tournaments? I've met a number of unrelated players (in Australia/Germany) who have heard of this rule, so I wondered if it came from somewhere other than word of mouth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also accept &quot;this isn't in any of the published rule books and isn't used for tournaments&quot; if that is the case (I only have the latest rule book to hand, so I can't check).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2012-03-29T23:09:17.810" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T09:26:55.677" Title="Where did the &quot;can't build next to the robber&quot; house rule come from?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6987" CreationDate="2012-03-29T13:22:57.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was asked on the MTGRULES-L mailing list (by one of the people involving in asking/answering this question here? I don't know) and this was the official reply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;An opponent plays a storm combo, ending in Tendrils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;In response I play Angels Grace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;After the storm of Tendrils finishes resolving, I am at -10 life, but&#xA;    I have not lost the game because of the Angel's Grace effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;If I take one point of &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt; (from something like City of Brass).&#xA;    What will my resultant life total be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever your life total would change, Angel's Grace applies if your&#xA;  previous life total is one or more and your future life total would be&#xA;  less than 1. If you were already at less than 1, Angel's Grace doesn't&#xA;  apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do keep in mind however that Angel's Grace's effect lasts only until&#xA;  end of turn, so unless you raise your life total to 1 or more (or win&#xA;  the game, or bring a Platinum Angel onto the battlefield...), you will&#xA;  lose in the next cleanup step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Daniel Kitachewsky L3, Paris, France MTGRules-L Netrep&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case anyone was still in any doubt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T13:22:57.647" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-29T15:58:32.993" Score="1" ViewCount="2600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started playing Twilight Imperium, and it's a blast. I really like the political aspect, technology aspect, and the mobilization of fleets. I really wish there was a PC game similar to this. I've been playing Civilization since Civ1 through Civ3, and that series is the closest PC game I can think of; however, it's not exactly what I'm looking for. I like how the production in TI is based on resources instead of production of a city. I also like how the politic cards change the rules as the game progresses. Does any one know of a PC game that has similar mechanics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1611" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T16:07:09.173" Title="Is there a single player PC game with similar mechanics to Twilight Imperium?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-03-29T21:31:04.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7005" CreationDate="2012-03-29T16:07:09.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Master's of Orion series is probably the closest PC game to Twilight Imperium, and a great game as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other people seem to think &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this as well&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/63217/master-of-orion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.rpg.net/showthread.php?479026-Twilight-Imperium-Master-of-Orion-the-boardgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also go full circle, and say that TI ispired the &lt;a href=&quot;http://moo3.quicksilver.com/diary/1200.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Masters of Orion boardgame&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T16:07:09.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7002" CreationDate="2012-03-29T18:51:21.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess it was &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiple_discovery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Multiple Discovery&lt;/a&gt;. The rules have not changed significantly from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/266837/review-of-changes-to-the-new-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;4th Edition&lt;/a&gt; from the original. The only noteworthy changes in 4th Edtion are that harbor placement is fixed, the Robber is allowed to move to the desert tile, and the merging of Trading/Building phases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Robber blocking building isn't listed as any official variant, or within any variant within the various &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/gamerules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule books&lt;/a&gt;, or the big &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/1137/die-siedler-von-catan-das-buch-zum-spielen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;15 Variant Book&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-30T00:52:35.390" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T00:52:35.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7010" CreationDate="2012-03-29T19:30:40.823" Score="7" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt; you have a card that permits you to buy buildings (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/147403/citadels?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Graveyard&lt;/a&gt;) destroyed by the Warlord. But the Warlord cannot buy the destroyed building. In the 2-3 players variant you select 2 characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can your alter ego buy the destroyed card then?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1846" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T16:51:40.673" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T16:51:40.673" Title="In 2-3 player Citadels, can your second character buy a destroyed building using Graveyard?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7009" CreationDate="2012-03-29T20:19:37.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Machiavelli, a.k.a. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jinx.com/content/games/Citadels.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt;, has a purple building called Cemetary/Graveyard. The &lt;strong&gt;Warlord&lt;/strong&gt; or (Condotaire) is not allowed to buy the destroyed building. You don't really have an alter ego, you have two turns during each round. You can only destroy a building during your &lt;strong&gt;Warlord&lt;/strong&gt; turn, and during that turn you are the Warlord and will not be able to use the &lt;strong&gt;Graveyard/Cemetary&lt;/strong&gt; ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graveyard&lt;/strong&gt; - When the Warlord destroys a district, you may pay one gold to take the destroyed district into your hand. You may not do this if you are the Warlord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two- or three-player game, all players play with two characters each. The game is played normally, except that each player has two turns each round (one turn for each character). Players do not have to separate their gold or their districts between their characters, as the players still only have one city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each character has a special ability, also called its power. You may use your character’s&#xA;power once during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-03-29T20:19:37.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-03-30T12:18:04.767" Score="9" ViewCount="5681" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played a couple of games (i.e. six rounds) of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saboteur_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt; with ten and then nine players.  The miners found the gold every round, and it was only a close thing once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The saboteurs win a bit more gold than the miners if they're successful, but I'd be surprised if this was enough to balance the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/151/what-are-some-good-house-rules-to-balance-the-sides-in-saboteur&quot;&gt;a similar question&lt;/a&gt; about ways to balance the win ratios, but I'm interested in whether the game as it stands has a balanced expected return for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edited to add game information:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rules&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/cardgames/files/saboteur/Saboteur_US_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Saboteur&lt;/a&gt; are available from the ZMan games site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Role Cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The role deck contains 11 cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 gold miner cards (whose aim is to find the gold)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 saboteur cards (whose aim is to prevent the miners from finding the gold).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Gold distribution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gold deck contains 28 cards in the following denominations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16 cards with 1 nugget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 cards with 2 nuggets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cards with 3 nuggets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the miners win a round in an &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; player game, then &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; randomly select gold cards are distributed amongst the miners (for a 10 player game only 9 cards are distributed).  If the (1/2/3/4) saboteurs win a round then they are awarded (4/3/3/2) gold each (respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Question clarification:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in the expected amount of gold for those playing as miners, and for those playing as saboteurs.  This is almost certainly different for different numbers of players, but I am interested to know whether the expected winnings is anywhere near the same for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T02:29:06.753" Title="Is Saboteur biased towards the miners?" Tags="|balance|saboteur|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:19:23.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/185730/game-balance-odds-in-favour-of-saboteurs-based-on&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EndersGame&lt;/a&gt; has a post on BGG talking about a teams chances of winning a particular round. It doesn't take into account the fact that the game is played over multiple rounds for points, so you would have to take into account ACT points for each player when they win, and self sabaotague from teammates trying to get the most points by finding the gold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one large game database of results you could consult to draw some conclusions. Board Game Arena has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.boardgamearena.com/#!gamelist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1500+ online games&lt;/a&gt; recorded for Saboteur (bottom left of page). On the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.boardgamearena.com/#!gamepanel?game=saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saboteur&lt;/a&gt; page itself, you can review the results of previous games, and some interesting statistics about that particular game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would be interested in &lt;strong&gt;Number of gold nuggets earned by saboteurs/miners&lt;/strong&gt;, but some of the other statistics might be useful. Unfortunately, you must either donate money to BGA to become a member, or get other players to join BGA through referrals to examine the statistics. It also appears to me while looking over a handful of 100 or so games, that few if any games are played with 9+ players. Most of the large games are 7 player. If you have too small of a sample size, you can't draw any accurate conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interface for displaying the old game results isn't very well designed for gathering data across a large number of games. I haven't dug too deeply into the GET/POST messages that my browser sends to their server to see if it is possible to extract only the information that you are interested it, but I mention it here in case any other code monkey wants to dig into the problem themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T14:26:58.967" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T14:26:58.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:20:53.460" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saboteur 1 does seem to be biased towards the &quot;good dwarves&quot; if you don't play it in really cutthroat fashion.  If the good dwarves just cooperate and go for the gold, they will win most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the good dwarves break each OTHER in order to keep competitors from getting gold, it gives the Saboteurs a much better chance, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Saboteur was designed with an expectation that good dwarves would be more cutthroat and selfish than a lot of groups play them instinctually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I recommend you pick up Saboteur 2, which adds (and replaces) some cards and roles.  It's much more well-balanced and more consistently fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="32" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T14:20:53.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:25:26.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found Pandemic to be a great gateway game to get people interested in board games in general. Then, once they're hooked, games like Dominion and Agricola are good because can be started simple and then gradually increased in complexity by adding more bits of the game into the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T03:37:22.537" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T03:37:22.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7020" CreationDate="2012-03-30T14:49:15.220" Score="7" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you begin play and randomly hand out the start worlds, do you shuffle the remaining start worlds into the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T16:49:44.467" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T16:49:44.467" Title="Are unused Start Worlds shuffled into the card supply?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7019" CreationDate="2012-03-30T15:00:52.647" Score="9" ViewCount="1074" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play the card Masquerade, and you have zero cards in hand, library and discard, what happens? I assume the person to your left will still have to pass a card along. Do you have to pass a card from play (potentially the Masquerade itself), or does the player to your left receive nothing, essentially reducing his or her deck by one card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T01:06:14.040" LastActivityDate="2018-01-29T21:19:14.397" Title="What does Masquerade do when you have no cards in hand, library or discard?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7018" CreationDate="2012-03-30T15:29:19.247" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of interest, how did you reach the position of having zero cards in hand, library and discard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the answer is fairly simple, I think.  Consider the following section of the rules, qualifying the action of &quot;draw 5 cards from your deck&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there still aren't enough cards to draw/reveal, he just&#xA;  draws/reveals what he can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems clear that Dominion follows the same rules philosophy as, for instance, Magic the Gathering: if you cannot fully carry out an action, carry out as much of it as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you try to draw 2 cards.  You can't, so instead you draw 0 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you try to pass a card left.  You can't, so you don't, though you probably do receive a card from your right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, assuming that you were passed a card, you have the option to trash it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple enough!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T15:29:19.247" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7017" CreationDate="2012-03-30T15:30:53.643" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes: per the Setup section of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Find and shuffle the five start worlds. Deal one world face up to each&#xA;  player. These form  each player’s initial card tableau.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shuffle the unused start worlds together with the game cards.&lt;/strong&gt; Deal six face down cards to each  player. Each player then examines these&#xA;  cards and discards two cards face down to the discard  pile. The&#xA;  remaining game cards form the initial card supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Bolded by me for emphasis.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-03-30T15:30:53.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7022" CreationDate="2012-03-31T13:02:02.327" Score="5" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mansions of Madness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the map room &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1114631/mansions-of-madness?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;chasm&quot;&lt;/a&gt; there are two spaces (The &lt;strong&gt;Chasm&lt;/strong&gt; room is the lowest left tile). But only one of them has &quot;line of sight dots&quot;. Does this mean that the other half (the one with the bridge) is not in line of sight from the &quot;crypt&quot; and &quot;cave&quot; rooms? So when I align them all in one straight line with the chasm at the end, I can shoot from the other end into the chasm piece, but nothing that is on the bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2695" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T20:42:32.523" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T23:02:29.953" Title="Line of sight dots on &quot;chasm&quot; map tile" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7021" CreationDate="2012-03-31T15:25:31.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Chasm&lt;/strong&gt; room space with the bridge does not have line of sight to the room Crypt or Cave, because it does not have line of sight dots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; page 21 (&lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt; mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that monsters, investigators and feature markers do not block line of sight. Also note that &lt;strong&gt;some spaces do not have line of sight dots&lt;/strong&gt;. A figure in one of these spaces has line of sight to every space in the room (and &lt;strong&gt;does not have line of sight to other rooms&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-03-31T17:05:57.290" LastActivityDate="2012-03-31T17:05:57.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7025" CreationDate="2012-04-01T18:37:51.563" Score="9" ViewCount="2946" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played hundreds of games of the EON version of Cosmic Encounter when younger but have not played the Fantasy Flight version, which is now the 5th version of this game. Including the expansions from both sets, what are the differences between the two versions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm most interested in any changes in strategy, rules, feel of the play, and types of powers. No need to discuss the specs of the game (numbers of cards, numbers of powers, etc.) which are easily found online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:55:33.213" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:55:33.213" Title="What are the differences between the oldest (EON) version of Cosmic Encounter and the newest (Fantasy Flight)?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4963" CreationDate="2012-04-01T20:37:52.333" Score="22" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AOEjl.png&quot; alt=&quot;A cute picture of Griselbrand and all the sweet spells he will find for you&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Griselbrand is the best reanimation target because he is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bYawgmoth%27s%5d%2b%5bBargain%5d&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth&amp;#39;s Bargain&lt;/a&gt;: whatever else you need, he will find it for you.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Legacy, which is the competitive format where you actually get to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEntomb%5d&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExhume%5d&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt;, Griselbrand is absolutely amazing because he can do practically everything, thanks to his ability to just draw a big chunk of your deck. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Griselbrand easily &lt;strong&gt;finds you free counterspells&lt;/strong&gt; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForce%20of%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDaze%5d&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt;, which you can use to protect him or stop your opponent's gameplan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Griselbrand easily &lt;strong&gt;sets up subsequent reanimation combos&lt;/strong&gt;, allowing you to deploy a more specific card to soft-lock your opponent (and gets you the FoW to keep it in place, too).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Griselbrand himself usually swings life totals quickly enough to &lt;strong&gt;stabilize against aggressive decks&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've built your deck and sideboard correctly, resolving him is &lt;em&gt;absolutely backbreaking&lt;/em&gt; to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ironically, Griselbrand almost singlehandedly drove Reanimator out of the metagame in Legacy, by making &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/512&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sneak and Show&lt;/a&gt; so consistent that there's not much reason to go through your graveyard &amp;mdash; but, whenever graveyard hate diminishes, top players often pick up &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com//deckdatabase/displaydeck.php?DeckID=46816&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Exhume-based combo&lt;/a&gt; again in order to be faster than the Sneak and Show deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Toolbox&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, no one big fatty is going to be able to beat every deck (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Aeons%20Torn%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; killing all your permanents comes close, though). Thus, Reanimator decks generally try to have a &quot;toolbox&quot; of different creatures to deal with different opponents. For example, a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElesh%20Norn%5d&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn&lt;/a&gt; can totally shut down aggro but is near-useless against a deck that's going to combo-kill you with sorceries next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to your opponents' decks, you have to think about the speed of your combo. A reanimator deck that reliably goes off on turn 2 can run different creatures from a reanimator deck that usually hits its combo on turn 5, or a combo-control deck that sandbags its combo until it has had a chance to wrath the board and run out the opponent's hand. A turn-2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmpyrial%20Archangel%5d&quot;&gt;Empyrial Archangel&lt;/a&gt; might buy you three turns of safety against an aggro deck that's just starting to develop its board position, whereas one you've reanimated on turn 5 could die the very next time your opponent attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Legacy, I think the general trend is something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGriselbrand%5d&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt; (formerly &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJin-Gitaxias%5d&quot;&gt;Jin-Gitaxias&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;em&gt;in multiples&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; This is the engine of your deck. See all that stuff I said above. Jin is trickier to play than Griselbrand, since you only get your cards when you end the turn -- so you've gotta have FoW in hand, wait for your opponent to tap out, or run Jin into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSwords%20to%20Plowshares%5d&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt; and hope your opponent doesn't have it. This makes him much more fragile than Griselbrand; however, the payoff with him is potentially even bigger: if you can get him to stick until your opponent's cleanup step, you'll force your opponent to discard his entire hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some combination of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElesh%20Norn%5d&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlazing%20Archon%5d&quot;&gt;Blazing Archon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmpyrial%20Archangel%5d&quot;&gt;Empyrial Archangel&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSphinx%20of%20the%20Steel%20Wind%5d&quot;&gt;Sphinx of the Steel Wind&lt;/a&gt;, tuned to the creature decks you expect to face.&lt;/strong&gt; Norn board-wipes weenie decks and greatly depowers any creature deck; Sphinx trumps any creatures-and-burn deck that doesn't have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSwords%20to%20Plowshares%5d&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt; for it; Empyrial Archangel is a strong card against aggro-control decks that can remove the other fatties but don't have enough bursty damage to kill her with one attack; Blazing Archon is vulnerable to removal but can protect you from arbitrarily-large creatures, including Eldrazi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly &lt;strong&gt;an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIona%2c%20Shield%20of%20Emeria%5d&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; somewhere in your 75. She's one of the best soft-lock cards, even against heavily multi-colored decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly &lt;strong&gt;an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAshen%20Rider%5d&quot;&gt;Ashen Rider&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTidespout%20Tyrant%5d&quot;&gt;Tidespout Tyrant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as multifunction removal. Eternal Magic is full of game-breaking artifacts, enchantments, planeswalkers, and lands, but too diverse to justify maindecking narrow answer cards. These guys can help you deal with a variety of troublesome permanents without diluting your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibly &lt;strong&gt;an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInkwell%20Leviathan%5d&quot;&gt;Inkwell Leviathan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; somewhere in your 75, mainly to put a clock on control decks. You don't really, really need this since you can use Force to give your Griselbrand virtual shroud.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least one of these should be a non-Legendary creature, to give you a threat your opponent can't get rid of with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarakas%5d&quot;&gt;Karakas&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before Griselbrand, there used to be room for &lt;strong&gt;one oddball choice&lt;/strong&gt;, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSheoldred%5d&quot;&gt;Sheoldred&lt;/a&gt; for long-game advantage or a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPlatinum%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; to stop combo decks that don't interact with the battlefield, somewhere in your 75. These seem like a &quot;last 5%&quot; kind of thing: they might be clutch in a certain really specific matchup, but you won't play them in most matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though we're talking about a combo that can easily go off on turn 2, the key thing to remember is that &lt;strong&gt;most of these decks are effectively control decks&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThoughtseize%5d&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDuress%5d&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForce%20of%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDaze%5d&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMental%20Misstep%5d&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt;, when it was available) are just as critical as the combo cards and the reanimation targets. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShow%20and%20Tell%5d&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt; in the sideboard is also standard, for dodging dedicated hate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some example decklists I'm using as a basis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com//deckdatabase/displaydeck.php?DeckID=46816&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reid Duke's winning Griselbrand list from a June 2012 SGC Open&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/816&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Josh Weinundy's winning list from an October 2011 SGC Open&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/breaking-the-indy-curse-4th-scg-open-indy/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Christopher Walton's top-8 list from the same even&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/legacy/21933_Deck_Tech_Reanimator_with_Sam_Stoddard.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A decklist from the Mental Misstep era&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/401&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Andreas Müller's GP-winning list from 2010, predating New Phyrexia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/owens-a-win-reanimating-wins/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Owen Turtenwald's 10-th place list at GP Atlanta, with discussion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/pvs-playhouse-legacy/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Robert Cucunato's 1st-place list from an October 2013 SGC Open&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T01:04:55.183" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T01:04:55.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7023" CreationDate="2012-04-01T22:20:26.043" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are most of the major changes (including expansions).  (Since a lot of Eon Cosmic fans also played the Mayfair 2nd ed, I've mentioned a it where relevant.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Main gameplay&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The basic game mechanics are unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hand size is now 8.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Flares are Eon-style, not Mayfair-style (once played they return to the hand, and are only lost when a new hand is redrawn).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;FFG counters allows for up to 8 players with all expansions.  Team play rules have just been added for once you go over 6.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fixed player boards of Eon/Mayfair are replaced by separate coaster-sized planets.  This seems like a cosmetic change but it's not; several powers and flares now take advantage of the fact that planets can be moved around independently.  (e.g. one alien power actually steals whole planets.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The main deck contains positive attack cards, negotiates, reinforcements, artifacts and flares.  The confusing array of Eon / Mayfair zaps have been simplified down to the Cosmic Zap (unchanged), and the Card Zap, which zaps artifacts, flares, and zaps.  There's also a 'morph' challenge card, which duplicates your opponent's challenge card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Optional rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Destiny cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the wild cards, three special destiny cards are included which all pick a 'well-off' player (e.g. fewest tokens in the warp).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 'rewards reversed' destiny cards have been improved into an entire expansion mechanic, the &lt;strong&gt;hazard deck&lt;/strong&gt;.  One card in each colour is a 'hazard' card which calls for an alternate rule for the encounter to be drawn.  This deck includes the old 'reversed ally rewards' rule, but also many others that change the encounter feel and require tactical adjustments (e.g. one hazard sends both players to the warp if the total of their attacks is too high).  Three of the cards are long-lasting; they change the rules for all encounters until another one of the three replaces them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Removed: Most of the more random or bookkeeping-intense optional rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In particular, &lt;strong&gt;moons&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;lucre&lt;/strong&gt; are gone. (Along with all powers that needed them.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Added: Several major optional card decks.  The hazard deck is mentioned above; there are also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tech research&lt;/strong&gt;.  If this rule is used, each player starts with a random tech card, which can be researched by putting tokens on it at the rate of one a turn until its cost is paid.  This means having fewer forces available on-board, in return for a reward later.&#xA;These powers can be low-cost and small, or expensive but extremely powerful.  (e.g. one card creates an entire new planet.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rewards deck&lt;/strong&gt;.  Intended to make being a defensive ally a stronger option; defending allies may draw rewards from the main deck or this one.  This deck includes attack cards (including some negative cards, and not going as high as the main deck attack-30 and -40, but averaging pretty high), crooked negotiates which penalise your opponent more for not dealing, kickers, artifacts, and some cards which retrieve lost ships.  Those cards in this deck also explode and destroy tokens if an opponent ever steals them from you.  (Reward cards have different backs, to discourage being taken by theft powers.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Powers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In general, the full &lt;em&gt;range&lt;/em&gt; of classic powers have been included, but where there were several similar powers, FFG have picked only one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Powers are rated by complexity, so that the hardest-to-use can easily be removed for beginners' games.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are no powers that &lt;em&gt;depend&lt;/em&gt; on certain optional rules being in play.  Any power will work in any game.  Some powers get better with certain rules in play, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Powers or flares which had ambiguous or interpretative effects (Judge, Witch, etc.) have been reworded to be unambiguous.  (For old-school Eon players, some of the reworded flares have the original version included as an alternative.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A significant number of new powers are added.  Generally they're well-designed, and surprisingly original - several do odd things with the basic game mechanics, like destroy planets or change the victory conditions.  Many are previewed in the news feed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=30&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight's Cosmic Encounter website&lt;/a&gt;, so check there for examples.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2012-04-01T22:20:26.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7023" CreationDate="2012-04-02T00:14:27.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was about to answer this, but Tynan's answer is so much better. Several sites have histories of the games and their changes. I only list it here for completeness sake, in case you were wondering about particular changes in card wording, artwork, and alien races available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cosmicencounter.daveola.com/Versions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cosmicencounter.daveola.com/Versions/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cosmicencounter.wikia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cosmicencounter.wikia.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T17:15:25.627" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T17:15:25.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7035" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:06:06.073" Score="16" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family has won most of the Pandemic (2 or 3 player games) we've played, but we ran into one recently that I thought impossible to win due to the 2 and 3 cube infections being far from Atlanta, far from each other, and not accessible with any of the cards we were dealt or received in the first few turns. We lost very early before we obtained even a single cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would have been great if I could have recorded the exact initial setup and card sequence to see if a win was possible - but I didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone done the work necessary to answer the question: Do certain setup and card order combinations make it impossible to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T02:11:06.650" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T22:22:57.497" Title="In Pandemic, do certain setup and card order combinations make it impossible to win?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7029" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:20:04.833" Score="28" ViewCount="6376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading the untap step rule and got confused a bit. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;502.2. Second, the active player determines which permanents he or she controls will untap. Then he or she untaps them all simultaneously.&#xA;  This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. Normally, all of a&#xA;  player's permanents untap, but effects can keep one or more of a&#xA;  player's permanents from untapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &quot;a player determines&quot;, can I determine not to untap all my permanents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-12T05:48:29.693" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T08:08:02.773" Title="Is untapping my permanents during the untap step optional?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7028" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:37:30.067" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not get to choose whether or not to keep a permanent tapped during the Untap Step of the Beginning Phase unless &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[choose]+[not]+[to]+[untap]&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a specific card's ability&lt;/a&gt; provides that choice. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=430410&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubinia Soulsinger&lt;/a&gt; lets you choose not to untap her during your untap step. Notice that the clause &quot;your untap step.&quot; is important, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=430410&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubinia Soulsinger&lt;/a&gt; must still be untapped if an opponent plays a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=pestermite&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pestermite&lt;/a&gt; you must untap &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=430410&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rubinia Soulsinger&lt;/a&gt; and relinquish control of whatever creature you stole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;determine&quot; in this context does not mean choose, it means to evaluate whether or not there are any abilities preventing a permanent from untapping, and evaluating the decision to untap &lt;em&gt;should an ability provide that choice&lt;/em&gt;. As the rule states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normally, all of a player's permanents untap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="23417" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T08:08:02.773" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T08:08:02.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7028" CreationDate="2012-04-02T15:38:14.210" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually the answer is in the text you posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normally, all of a player's permanents untap, but effects can keep one or more of a player's permanents from untapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, a player cannot chose which permanents to untap during that step, unless an effect  makes it so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T15:38:14.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18970" CreationDate="2012-04-02T16:31:34.867" Score="10" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Rex: Final Days of an Empire, it is possible for the following sequence of events to occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sol Offensive is revealed as the Influence card and affects a zone occupied by the Sol player's troops (allowing him to move said to anywhere on the board).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sol player places some number of troops in a space occupied by another player (e.g. Letnev, but it is irrelevant).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sol Offensive is completed otherwise, and a second Influence card is revealed as a Temporary Cease Fire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sol player and the Letnev player (who would otherwise have battled) now form an alliance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the placement of the Sol player's troops is illegal (the rules state you cannot place troops in a space occupied by an ally's troops). According to the rules (or an official ruling or FAQ), what should be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:46:55.217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:46:55.217" Title="What happens if an alliance is created that would create an illegal battle?" Tags="|rex|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7034" CreationDate="2012-04-02T16:57:15.483" Score="18" ViewCount="3711" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this recently happened to me in playtesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my upkeep. My opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141825&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mistbind Clique&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a relevant counter, but I do have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;. He has multiple fairies on the field, as well as enough mana to animate his Mutavault, so I can't get a two-for-one by Pathing anything before the Clique resolves. I let the Clique resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mistbind Clique's champion trigger goes on the stack. In response, I Path the Clique &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; its champion trigger resolves.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Path resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when the Clique's champion ability resolves after it's already been exiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that my opponent still gets the option to exile a faerie (which would stay exiled, since the Clique has already left the battlefield). If he does so, though, &lt;strong&gt;does the Clique's tap-down ability apply?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Faerie is championed with Mistbind Clique, tap all lands target player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:03:15.430" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:03:15.430" Title="What happens when I remove Mistbind Clique with its champion trigger still on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7032" CreationDate="2012-04-02T17:13:56.513" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in thinking your opponent still gets the option to exile a faerie. However, if he/she does so, the Clique's tap-down ability &lt;strong&gt;does not apply.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mistbind Clique's ability reads &quot;When a Faerie is championed with Mistbind Clique, tap all lands target player controls.&quot; The &lt;strong&gt;when&lt;/strong&gt; there implies that it is a triggered ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.3c&lt;/strong&gt; Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it's countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 603, &quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Mistbind Clique is no longer present on the battlefield when the Champion triggered ability resolves, the tapping triggered ability will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-04-02T17:13:56.513" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7027" CreationDate="2012-04-02T17:20:01.983" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - it's possible not to be able to win.  In fact it's possible to not be able to survive until the second turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of someone playing a game which they lost on the first turn: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/373797/it-takes-talent-to-lose-on-the-first-turn&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/373797/it-takes-talent-to-lose-on-the-first-turn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe they could have done better, but if they had cards such that they couldn't treat anything in the black area then that would be the end of the game.  Here's a full example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial placement of cubes are three in Baghdad, Riyadh and Karachi, two in Cairo, Tehran and Delhi and one in Algiers, Istanbul and Moscow (i.e. 18 of the 24 black cubes are already on the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Position after initial infection&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6sSTt.png&quot; alt=&quot;Position after initial infection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four players, player 1 is Medic with Santiago and Beijing. The other players (Operations Expert, Scientist and Dispatcher) have no special events, and don't have Atlanta.  The first player can't treat any cities in four actions, and picks up one city and one epidemic at the end of their go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The epidemic city is Mumbai, the marker is moved up one space, and after shuffling the city cards Baghdad and Riyadh are drawn.  These cause two large chain reactions with 18 outbreaks and requiring 45 cubes on the board - a loss by two methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Position after epidemic in Mumbai, and infection in Baghdad (outbreaks highlighted in green)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZwLGU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Position after epidemic in Mumbai, and infection in Baghdad&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Position after infection in Riyadh&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tccyu.png&quot; alt=&quot;Position after infection in Riyadh&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pandemic can be a frustrating game at times.  I think the author of the session review sums this up pretty well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All that set-up, for less than a minute of game play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T22:22:57.497" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T22:22:57.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T02:52:26.730" Score="2" ViewCount="19208" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6816/how-do-twitch-effects-work-with-the-stack-vs-activated-tap-abilities&quot;&gt;How do twitch effects work with the stack vs activated tap abilities?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature with a tap to activate ability, can my opponent use an ability to tap it in response to my tapping it to prevent it from being activated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T12:32:35.190" Title="Can a creature be tapped to prevent its activated ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-04-04T02:14:26.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2012-04-03T03:12:31.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;He can tap your creature in response, but it wont prevent your creatures ability to go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping your creature is part of the cost of playing the ability. So when it goes to the stack, costs are already paid and it is already tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T03:12:31.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7045" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7047" CreationDate="2012-04-03T03:15:40.930" Score="12" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays a Torturer. I have a Trader in hand. I choose to gain a Curse and then reveal the Trader and gain a Silver instead. Does the Silver go to my hand like the Curse would have?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XoDke.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Torturer&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I19Dq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Trader&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:39:20.203" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T17:39:20.203" Title="Trader vs Torturer, where does the Silver go?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-04-03T03:19:45.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new web-show &lt;a href=&quot;http://geekandsundry.com/shows/tabletop/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TableTop&lt;/a&gt; is pretty much explicitly designed with this kind of thing in mind. As of this writing only one episode is out, covering Small World. Note that there is a little bit of cursing, but the F-bomb is bleeped, so you may want to consider pre-watching the show if you are considering using it to convince your kids to play...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T03:19:45.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7045" CreationDate="2012-04-03T03:37:42.913" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Silver Gained from Trader works exactly the same as any other Gain; as Trader's text doesn't specify anything to the contrary, the Gained card goes directly to your discard pile.  This situation is explicitly mentioned on page 11 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_396_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Hinterlands instructions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card you were going to gain was not going to your discard pile, &lt;strong&gt;the Silver still goes to your discard pile&lt;/strong&gt;; if the card you were going to gain did not come from the Supply, the Silver still comes from the Supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T03:37:42.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7037" CreationDate="2012-04-03T04:11:45.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this is not possible, for one of two reasons depending on the game state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have priority, then you may choose to activate your creature's ability. If you do so, then everything involved in the activation of the ability (including the tapping of your creature to pay the ability's cost) happens immediately. Your opponent does not have any opportunity to interrupt this. Only after you are &lt;em&gt;done&lt;/em&gt; activating your creature's ability does your opponent has a chance to play &lt;em&gt;his&lt;/em&gt; tapping ability, but by that point your creature is already tapped, and tapping it won't have any effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not have priority, then your opponent may choose to activate his tapping ability to tap your creature. However, in this case, the tapping is part of the &lt;em&gt;effect&lt;/em&gt; of the ability, not the cost, so your creature does not become tapped right away. Your opponent's ability gets activated, goes on the stack, and then sits there for a while. You may choose to play abilities of your own in the meantime (&quot;in response&quot;), so for example you could use your own creature's ability before your opponent's ability resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of activating an ability is described in rule 602.2, and the timing rules are described in rule 116. You may want to review those (although they're too long to quote here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T04:11:45.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7054" CreationDate="2012-04-03T09:09:48.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1701" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play an action card as an action and another player plays sabotage on it, can I take another action or is my action considered taken already?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:16:50.913" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:16:50.913" Title="If I play an action card and it is sabotaged, can I take another action?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7053" CreationDate="2012-04-03T09:28:05.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3faq2-2-4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3faq2-2-4.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Is an Action Card that has been sabotaged considered played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A:&#xA;No. For example, a “play as an action” Action Card that is  sabotaged&#xA;does not use up its owner’s action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you should be able to play another action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T09:28:05.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7073" CreationDate="2012-04-03T12:52:49.507" Score="27" ViewCount="14372" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of backstory: I've only played the Battlestar Galactica game twice.  The first time I was uproariously drunk, and a bit too delighted at getting to &quot;be&quot; Dr Gaius Baltar; all the inexperienced (and increasingly sloshed) players were humans, and as far as I can remember the human race was crushed systematically and with ease by the competent and sober Cylon menace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second time I played the BSG game was a couple of weeks ago.  I hadn't really assimilated &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of the rules from the first time round, as you might imagine.  However, this time I got to be Commander Tigh... and a Cylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that a potential flaw of the game, which is, let's face it, above averagely complicated, is that it's good for inexperienced players in human roles (they can ask each other for advice, and generally play cooperatively) but maybe not so good for inexperienced players in Cylon roles.  It's quite difficult to probe for potential areas of weakness when you have no idea what's going on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event I think I did alright as the Cylon mole, secretly selecting inferior jump destinations and whittling the ship's morale down to 1 before the final jump (after which a hostile planet might well have finished humanity off, though sadly it was not to be).  However, I'm sure I could have done better.  So perhaps more experienced BSG players can answer the following question for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a very minimal knowledge of the game rules, what is an appropriate strategy for a Cylon to adopt to bring down other players who know the rules better?  What are good ways to undermine the fortunes of the Galactica without making it too obvious that you're the traitor?  Additionally, I never felt confident to &quot;show my hand&quot; and go on the full attack towards the end of the game - because I didn't understand what would happen if I did so well enough.  Is this ever a good tactic, and if so when and under what circumstances should it be employed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T19:34:39.780" Title="Help! I'm A Cylon!" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7057" CreationDate="2012-04-03T13:04:32.787" Score="12" ViewCount="812" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ex/en/104.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spellshock&lt;/a&gt; currently has the following wording in the Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a player casts a spell, Spellshock deals 2 damage to that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the original wording shown in the card image is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever any player &lt;strong&gt;successfully&lt;/strong&gt; casts a spell, Spellshock deals 2 damage to him or her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, the word &quot;successfully&quot; implies casting a spell which is not countered, though I'm not aware that the word &quot;successfully&quot; is ever defined in the rules. Otherwise, the word &quot;successfully&quot; means nothing at all, since it's pretty hard to fail at &lt;em&gt;casting&lt;/em&gt; (as opposed to &lt;em&gt;resolving&lt;/em&gt;) a spell. In more modern parlance, we might phrase the original ability this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a spell resolves and is not countered, Spellshock deals 2 damage to that spell's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the original intent of the card? If so, when and why was the wording changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T12:25:11.293" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T12:25:11.293" Title="Has the significance of the term 'cast' changed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7056" CreationDate="2012-04-03T13:18:20.007" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR Yes, cards with &quot;successfully cast&quot; have undergone a functional rule change.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The change you're talking about is actually a fairly old rules change - the removal of the phrase (and function) &quot;successfully cast&quot; was with the Sixth Edition rules changes. Previous to the &lt;em&gt;Classic&lt;/em&gt; rules (the Sixth Edition rules changes), the &lt;code&gt;Interrupt&lt;/code&gt; spell type still existed, and counterspells were of that type. You'd use an &lt;code&gt;Interrupt&lt;/code&gt; to counter a spell, and it would fail being &quot;successfully cast.&quot; See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/advanced/6e/6e_letter.asp&quot;&gt;the Sixth Edition rules change letter&lt;/a&gt; for some specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Classic&lt;/em&gt; rules do away with interrupts. All interrupts are now instants, which means you can counter a spell any time before it resolves. (Abilities that trigger on a spell being &quot;successfully cast&quot; now trigger on a spell being &quot;played.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, all previous triggers based on spells being successfully cast now trigger on spells being &quot;played,&quot; which was changed to &quot;cast&quot; during the M12 rules changes. This &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; caused a functional rules change - a spell which is cast and countered will still trigger an ability on these older &quot;successfully cast&quot; cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice was either describing these triggers as &quot;when a spell is cast and resolves&quot; (which is a bit complex), or widening the trigger window for these cards. Your phrasing of the original intent is close, but not quite right. For the original trigger to happen, the spell would have had to be cast and resolve. With your phrasing, copies of a spell (created with Fork, Isochron Scepter, etc.) resolve and may not be countered, but are never cast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T13:56:34.483" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T13:56:34.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7168" CreationDate="2012-04-03T13:43:23.950" Score="5" ViewCount="782" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a problem regarding how to count the troops that fall from the tower in every battle. From what we understood from the English and Spanish rulebooks, there is no way a player could get more troops that he throw in the tower. Also, from what we understood, green defends if there is no revolt mark. (The revolt mark is another topic!). But what happen if red has 4, yellow has 2 and, after throwing, fall 6 reds and 3 yellows? All are count and red receive 3? What about greens (somewhere said that green die first?) or the max used is the max throwed inside the tower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T23:47:38.917" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T23:47:38.917" Title="How do you count troops in Shogun when they fall off the tower?" Tags="|shogun|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7060" CreationDate="2012-04-03T14:44:43.313" Score="4" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the designer of Dominion, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=116.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Donald X. Vaccarino&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bridge makes all cards cheaper, &lt;strong&gt;not just ones in the supply&lt;/strong&gt;. This was to prevent problems in weird situations. I am not sure the kind of thing you'd need to get those problems will ever happen, but I knew that this way of doing it meant I was safe. This also allows some unusual combos to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which non-supply cards does he refer to? The only example I can think of is the Black Market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user848" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditorDisplayName="user848" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T03:57:40.427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T03:57:40.427" Title="Are there any non-supply cards besides Black Market?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-promotional|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7059" CreationDate="2012-04-03T14:56:08.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;All cards not in the supply could include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in your opponents hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in play (including opponents)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in your deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in your opponents deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in your discard pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in your opponents pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in other locations (ie Village Mat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example Play from Intrigue cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play a two Mining Villages, play two Bridges, play a Swindler.&#xA;Opponent turns over an Estate which is now valued at $0, replace opponent's Estate with a Curse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T15:04:30.403" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T15:04:30.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T16:27:25.697" Score="9" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;If player A taps his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Telekinetic%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Telekinetic Sliver&lt;/a&gt; to tap an opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crimson%20Hellkite&quot;&gt;Crimson Hellkite&lt;/a&gt;, the opponent can pay 2 red mana (he can pay X, but lets say he pays two) and tap the Crimson Hellkite to put the effect &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Crimson Hellkite does two damage to target creature&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what if a player has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkheart%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Darkheart Sliver&lt;/a&gt; in play and wants to sacrifice his Telekinetic Sliver to gain three life?  Can he do it?  Does this go on the stack too, and resolve first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the opponent's ability on the stack then fail because there's no target anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is player A then unable to tap the Crimson Hellkite because it is already tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct way to resolve this?  If not, what would be the possible scenarios (for simplicity, assume there are only these three creatures in play, no cards left in players's hands and only basic lands on the table)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit confused by this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Each player chooses the order in which his or her triggered abilities are put on the stack&amp;quot;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I've no idea at all if it applies or not to the above scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2704" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T05:06:47.720" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T05:06:47.720" Title="Crimson Hellkite vs Telekinetic Sliver + Darkheart Sliver" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7061" CreationDate="2012-04-03T16:35:55.937" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If player A taps his Telekinetic sliver to tap opponent's Crimson Hellkite, the opponent can pay 2 red mana (he can pay X, but let say he pays two) and tap the Crimson Hellkite to put on the stack &quot;Crimson Hellkite does two damages to target creature&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now what if player has a Darkheart sliver in play and wants to sacrifice his Telekinetic sliver to gain three life? Can he do it? Does this goes on the stack too and resolve first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And then the opponent's ability on the stack fails because there's no target anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And then player A cannot tap the Crimson Hellkite because it is already tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability played by Player A will still resolve, it just won't change anything, since as you say, the Hellkite is already tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Each player chooses the order in which his or her triggered abilities are put on the stack&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no triggered abilities in the scenario you outlined. They were all activated abilities. This line does not apply. See 603.1 in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T16:35:55.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2012-04-03T17:04:48.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am uncertain of the effect on an AI specifically, but the following introduces some randomness into the game, and I really enjoy playing it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://research.cs.queensu.ca/Parallel/QuantumChess/QuantumChess.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quantum Chess&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2630" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T17:04:48.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7027" CreationDate="2012-04-03T17:06:15.417" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the accepted answer shows that it definitely is possible, it seems highly unlikely to encounter a situation where you can prove that no win condition is possible.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I thought impossible to win due to the 2 and 3 cube infections being far from Atlanta, far from each other, and not accessible with any of the cards we were dealt or received in the first few turns.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be possible to reach just about any city with any set of cards in 2 turns.  You just may need a little creativity.  Remember that reaching any city that you have the card for allows you to go anywhere.  Want to get to red but only have 2 blacks?  Play one, walk to the other, and then use it to fly to red.  Expensive, yes, but certainly not impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while having the cities with lots of cubes spread out makes them difficult to remove, it also makes them unlikely to cause chain reactions.  So you don't have to drop everything to try to get to them right away.  You can still win with 7 outbreaks, consider them a resource and &quot;use&quot; every one you can to get you closer to cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T17:06:15.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-03T20:30:53.790" Score="5" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shanty Town:&lt;/strong&gt; +2 Actions, Reveal your hand. If you have no Action cards&#xA;  in hand, +2 Cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Village:&lt;/strong&gt; +1 Card, +2 Actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally I've had games where both of these are in the kingdom set and I don't really know which one to choose. Village is a sure thing, but Shanty Town offers the potential of getting 2 cards with the downside of sometimes getting none. I tend to prefer Village because you usually only want +2 Action cards in a deck running a fair amount of actions, and if you have a fair amount of actions you'll probably draw one with the Shanty Town and lose the +2 card bonus. In an action-thin deck Shanty Town could be more useful as you'd get the +2 cards more often, but often it would just degrade into a Moat because you don't have many actions to draw with those +2 cards to use the actions it gives you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I take Shanty Town instead of Village? Is my analysis mostly correct? When should I chose to buy/gain a Shanty Town in general if its 2 effects (one being good in action decks, the other other being very bad) seem to have no synergy at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T00:54:27.213" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T00:54:27.213" Title="Choosing between Shanty Town and Village when both are in the Kingdom set?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7075" CreationDate="2012-04-03T20:44:56.593" Score="9" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a VERY basic level, my RFTG choices work like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pick Develop if you want to build a development&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pick Settle if you want to settle a world&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pick Trade if you want to trade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pick 2x VPs if you want to get extra VPs from your consumption of goods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pick Produce if you want to produce goods&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pick Explore if you want to ?????????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do the 2 Explore cards come in? I guess the obvious choice is &quot;If you need more cards and have no better way of getting them.&quot; I've gone through a few games without ever picking explore because it essentially gives you a 1 card advantage if you pick the 'look at 1 more, keep 1 more' card and an advantage of maybe getting a slightly better card than your opponents with the 'look at 5 more cards' card. Both Develop and Settle give you a 1 card advantage at the very least, both Consume phases can lead to big card advantages, and Produce can set you up for an amazing next turn and sometimes give you card advantage in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my analysis roughly correct? With all these things going against it, when should I pick each different Explore card in my phase selection? It seems to be a desperate pick when you have virtually no other options, so at the very least you can be happy with getting a net advantage of 1 card over all of your opponents, or are hoping for a certain card, have a lot of cards in you hand already, and have no better options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T01:46:04.530" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T13:07:27.873" Title="When should I choose an Explore card in Race For The Galaxy?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2012-04-03T21:18:01.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems you're asking for an easy Cylon strategy for beginners that don't know the rules or consequences.  I'd do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start playing as a human.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until a &quot;setup&quot; card is drawn (one that places enemy ships on the board).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your Cylon reveal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend every turn thereafter drawing crisis cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-03T22:23:52.433" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T22:23:52.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7066" CreationDate="2012-04-03T21:25:28.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you have a mistake in your question: Shanty can give +2 cards, but sometimes it will only give &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; (not the 1 that say in your second sentence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) In a standard village+draw engine, the vanilla Village is more useful because you will expect to have other actions in your hand, and so Shanty Town's bonus won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If there are lots of non-terminals or an easy way to spam +Actions, then Shanty Town becomes more powerful because you have the ability to play the remaining actions in your hand and then use Shanty to trigger the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Shanty is useful in early turns for increasing cycling. Shanty Town + Potion is a great opening for Apothecary or University games (less so for Scrying Pool because you'll eventually have lots of actions and not necessarily +Action cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Finally, Shanty is solid in plain Big Money games. If you have only one or two Shanty Towns in your deck, it is almost guaranteed to be a Lab (which is a $5 card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2012-04-04T22:37:04.297" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T22:37:04.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-04-03T21:30:24.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick Explore if you don't have cards (worlds/developments) that fit your strategy, and need to dig for some.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Especially&lt;/strong&gt; if you have worlds or developments with icons like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9VTRx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Race For the Galaxy Explore Icon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll find that it doesn't take long to dig through your supply to find those big bomb 6-cost developments that are going to win the game or those sweet worlds that fit into your production/alien/mining strategy or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that if you don't have worlds that help you extend the card and/or search advantage of the explore phase, it is generally a less optimal play than consume phase card advantages or even a simple develop or settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T21:30:24.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7066" CreationDate="2012-04-03T22:06:38.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I look at it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the early game, I'm unlikely to have many actions in my hand. Shanty is good early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the late game, the hands will start to fill up with victory cards, so your odds of triggering the draw increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: if you have Village and Shanty in your hand, you can play the village and other actions first, then draw two cards with Shanty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I don't really think one is strictly better than the other, but there is some synergy if you have both!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T22:06:38.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2012-04-03T23:15:06.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of they keys is to help more than you should on less important crisis cards. In this way, you have fewer cards to help when something terrible happens, but nobody can point at you and say you contributed something negative. Also, if you can, play-up the less important crises to other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T23:15:06.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2012-04-03T23:22:45.853" Score="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are really three parts to beginner's Cylon strategy: How to sabotage as a human, when to reveal, and how to act as Cylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hanging with Humans: Confusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While pretending to be human, your job is not to sabotage everything (that gets you caught fast).  The game is already trying to kill the humans; your job is to &lt;em&gt;tip the balance&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crises&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some simple beginner's rules of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sabotage skill checks only when everyone else is playing and the check looks like being close-fought.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Encourage players to overkill important skill checks - it looks like harmless caution (as passing checks by too much is a common beginner mistake in BG) but it's more useful than sabotage.  (If the skill check needs 15 and the humans get 27, that's 8-10 points of skill cards wasted.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try and get the humans to &lt;em&gt;attempt&lt;/em&gt; every skill check. Experienced humans will pick some to fail on purpose so as to save cards for more important tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other tactics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a pilot, make minimal use of pilot cards.  Be shot down when you actually have Evasive Action in hand; use attack cards - but fewer than you could.  Every viper shot down helps, and being in sick bay is great - it's a legitimate reason to do nothing useful, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; it encourages people to XO you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are or become the Admiral, you're golden.  The most important thing is to minimize jump distance - delay is always good for the Cylons.  Cut back on sabotage; it's more important to hold onto the job than to break every skill check.  When someone starts scouting destinations, hang on until a giveaway jump then get ready to run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Reveal&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When to run&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging when to reveal is a fine art, but here are the main things to look for.  Any one of these is a possible cue to reveal; two together is time to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A fleet attack has just been drawn.  (You want the humans under pressure when you shift.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A skill check is sabotaged, and it wasn't you, but could have been.  (When you &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; there's another Cylon around, you can provide him with more opportunities for sabotage by revealing and pressuring the humans.  And your departure helps confuse suspicions.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The humans suspect you.  (If you're going to be brigged/executed anyway, it's time to leave, even if the moment isn't optimal.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your 'You are a Cylon' card sabotages the humans in some way that's particularly harmful in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Golden Moment: Someone XOs you just before your turn.&#xA;(Experienced human players will never do this if there's a Cylon not accounted for.  If you get the chance, take it.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to run&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you will use all your spare actions before revealing to do as much damage as possible.  The following actions are almost always worthwhile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have a good one-use power that can hurt the humans, use it in a damaging way.  It's wasted once you reveal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use Communications to push civilian ships into raiders.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're the admiral, waste nukes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Brig or execute someone.  The Admiral, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/2576/245&quot;&gt;more detailed analysis of this part&lt;/a&gt; elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Enemy: Driving the Nails In&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the easiest bit for a beginner Cylon.  If in doubt, it's almost never wrong to play your Super Crisis, then keep drawing more Crises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Galactica is heavily under fire (or you used the fleet attack super crisis), consider the Cylon fleet instead.  (Especially if you were a pilot.)  But don't get attached to it; use it once at a critical moment for extra firepower, then go back to crisis cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-04-03T23:22:45.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-04-04T01:30:30.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to be playing completely head down, ignoring your opponents.  This is not how to play Race well.  You pick develop if it will help you more than your opponent, given your opponents expected moves, not just because you want to build a development. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exploring is generally not something you want to be doing often.  You don't want to build a strategy around explore.  Often, you are exploring because you want to slow down the pace of the game.  You might want to find a 6 cost development late game that fits in with your strategy, and so you call explore +5.  Or maybe it's early game, and you just don't have anything good in your hand yet (even if you could build something, your opponents will likely build something better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T01:30:30.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-04-04T01:50:32.610" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your analysis is not wrong, but it is a little simplistic, mostly because you are ignoring the existence of the other players, and the state of their games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Explore is the only option that doesn't depend on anything else. You can always play an Explore. Yes, it's not as efficient as Trading. But Trading isn't always possible. If you've run out of cards, or your cards just plain suck, then Explore is pretty handy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Explore prevents your opponent leeching, and taking advantage of your action. For example, an opponent playing a military strategy may be waiting for you to choose Settle, so he can dump a military world for free. Playing several Explores in a row can force opponents to choose actions they would rather you chose for them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, you don't want to choose Settle, and settle something rubbish, if that gives your opponent the opportunity to play something amazing. So if an opponent has many cards in hand, or has a clear strategy developing based around obvious Phase choices, then you're going to want to avoid those when you can. Explore is often a good alternative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Explore is crucial if you think an opponent is planning to Develop or Settle, and you want to take advantage of that, but don't have a card of that type in hand, or, even worse, you have a card you want to play, but don't have enough to pay for it. In this case the fact Explore happens before anything else is really valuable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that generate Explore bonuses, particularly things like Research Labs, can make Explore much more lucrative for you than for anyone else. These also allow you to leech other people's Explores. Obviously, they will try to avoid this, but as we've noted, often Explore is the only option, particularly early game, or with rash plays that have emptied one's hand unhelpfully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, Explore +1/+1 makes more sense in the early game, because your hand is smaller, and later on you will usually have alternative ways to generate card flow. Explore +5 makes more sense as a later-game play, particularly to maximise your strategy. For example, finding large military worlds, getting more blue production worlds, finding that killer 6 development etc. are all things that might justify a late-game Explore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, overall, while Explore is often not what you want to do, it does have wide versatility, and can occasionally be fantastic. I think careful tactical use of Explore is an essential tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-04-04T01:50:32.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7077" CreationDate="2012-04-05T01:10:27.320" Score="8" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to run a Race for the Galaxy tournament at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamers.org&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WBC&lt;/a&gt; this year. You should all come and play! I received a message that last year, one of the competitors suspected another player was underpaying for the cards he was building. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reasonable way to make sure players play Race fairly? We want that no one can pay less for their builds than they should, that no one is keeping extra cards from explore, etc. Is there some way to do this that isn't overly burdensome to the players and the pace of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T01:30:59.933" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T02:15:59.817" Title="Tournament rules for RftG, how to ensure fair play?" Tags="|tournament|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7076" CreationDate="2012-04-05T02:08:47.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could discard cards face down in-front of yourself, splayed out so that a count can easily be made, before discarding the cards to the common discard pile. Alternately, until the next reshuffle, you could place those cards face down under the development/planet (splayed slightly) that they are paying. This would give players a much longer time to verify that they didn't cheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not exactly sure how someone would &lt;strong&gt;keep&lt;/strong&gt; extra cards from an explore. During the explore phase, don't you keep either 2 cards of 3 (normally, without any development/planet bonuses) or if you explore deep you keep 1 of 7 cards. How exactly is someone keeping extra cards from this? Are they merging their hand and their Explore, or keeping them in different hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-05T02:15:59.817" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T02:15:59.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-05T17:55:23.347" Score="14" ViewCount="66260" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Jenga, when you are moving your block out and another block next to it moves, are you allowed to push the other block(s) back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2711" LastEditorUserId="20384" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T19:26:30.837" LastActivityDate="2020-05-09T23:02:21.637" Title="If you disturb a Jenga block, can you push it back into place?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7078" CreationDate="2012-04-05T18:16:50.870" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Jenga_2000.PDF&quot;&gt;official 2000 version&lt;/a&gt; of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As play proceeds and the weight of the tower shifts, some blocks become looser than others and are easier to remove. You can touch other blocks to find a loose one — but if you move a block out of place, you must fix it (using one hand only) before touching another block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this rule includes the proviso &lt;em&gt;before touching another block&lt;/em&gt; I take this to mean that you can't touch blocks after you have started to remove your block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it would be within the spirit of the rules that you could try and replace the block you started to remove, then try and remove the block you disturbed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is that you can only touch one block at a time with only one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T18:16:50.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2012-04-05T19:49:45.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also worth checking out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessvariants.org/diffsetup.dir/fischer.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fischer Random Chess&lt;/a&gt;. This works well against any chess player (human or computer) that is working off &quot;book.&quot; It increases the potential entropy of the game significantly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="753" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T19:49:45.303" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7082" CreationDate="2012-04-05T21:20:16.853" Score="7" ViewCount="2031" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attack with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190566&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Specter&lt;/a&gt; and the defending team does not declare a blocker, should I &quot;target&quot; who is going to discard a card randomly? Or do they decide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2679" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:25:49.120" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:25:49.120" Title="How does Hypnotic Specter work in Two-Headed Giant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7081" CreationDate="2012-04-05T21:31:44.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is covered by the following two-headed giant specific rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;810.7f&lt;/strong&gt; As the combat damage step begins, the active team announces how each attacking creature will assign its combat damage. If an attacking creature would assign combat damage to the defending team, the active team chooses only one of the defending players for that creature to assign its combat damage to. Then the defending team announces how each blocking creature will assign its combat damage. See rule 510.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, when an attacking creature is not blocked, you choose which player the combat damage is dealt to (and cause the Specter's triggered ability to affect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-04-05T21:31:44.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-06T07:27:41.863" Score="2" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Treasure Map&lt;/strong&gt; text says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trash this and another copy of Treasure Map from your hand. If you do trash two Treasure Maps, gain 4 Gold cards, putting them on top of your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I manage to play both Treasure Cards as actions, do they both activate their full effects? That is: do I get 8 Gold cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, the moment I play the first, I have to trash the other one so preventing it for being played as an action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="794" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T09:00:41.323" Title="Dominion Seaside Treasure Map: do both copies activate?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7083" CreationDate="2012-04-06T09:00:41.323" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You play the first, performing its action of trashing itself and the second Treasure Map and gain 4 golds. You can't continue to play the second Treasure Map since it's no longer in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also can't use Throne Room to gain more than 4 golds since the text states &quot;&lt;strong&gt;If&lt;/strong&gt; you do trash&quot;, and you can only trash a card once (I also tested on isotropic to make sure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T09:00:41.323" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9002" CreationDate="2012-04-06T12:06:36.423" Score="37" ViewCount="7598" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quantum_tic_tac_toe&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quantum Tic Tac Toe&lt;/a&gt; is a variant of Tic-Tac-Toe with &quot;entangled&quot; states (there are even iPhone and Android apps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, a classic naught or cross isn't placed until the 'quantum state' of the board is measured and forms a closed loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the pieces X&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;, X&lt;sub&gt;7&lt;/sub&gt; and O&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt; are measured when placing the two O&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt; pieces are placed and forms a closed loop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZCgL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon measurement, the player placing the X marks, picks whether O&lt;sub&gt;8&lt;/sub&gt; collapses onto square 3 or square 5. After picking, and resolving entanglement, the board looks like this (O&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt; and O&lt;sub&gt;4&lt;/sub&gt; collapse in 7, and 8 respectively. X&lt;sub&gt;5&lt;/sub&gt; to square 4.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV6Dr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a winning strategy for either player? If so, what is it? If not, how can one guarantee a tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="355" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:38:16.120" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T08:38:16.120" Title="What is the optimal strategy in Quantum Tic Tac Toe?" Tags="|tic-tac-toe|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7094" CreationDate="2012-04-06T19:01:36.643" Score="9" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the golden rule of Dominion is to do as much as you can, when you can, shouldn't you have to reveal your hand to prove you cannot trash a Treasure Map from your hand? Treasure Map doesn't say &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Choose 1&lt;/strong&gt;, so I doubt that you are supposed to have a choice in whether you trash a Treasure Map from your hand, if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treasure Map&lt;/strong&gt; - Trash this and another copy of Treasure Map from your hand. If you do trash two Treasure Maps, gain 4 Gold cards, putting them on top of your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules actually cover an interesting case. Imagine that this is your hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Throne Room, 3xTreasure Map, Copper&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules explain what you do in this situation, and it doesn't mention that you have any choice in the outcome. It would be possible for a cheater to Throne Room the first TM, &lt;strong&gt;Trash&lt;/strong&gt; one from their hand, then when the 2nd copy of TM from Throne Room resolves claim that they don't have one in their hand (if they don't have to reveal their hand), then at the end of their turn hide the TM under the Copper when discarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if you Throne Room a Treasure Map, with two more Treasure Maps in hand, then the first time Treasure Map resolves you trash it and another one and gain 4 Golds, and the second time it resolves you trash your other Treasure Map but gain nothing (since you didn't actually trash the played Treasure Map that time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the proper way of resolving Treasure Map when you don't Trash a Treasure Map from your hand to &lt;strong&gt;reveal&lt;/strong&gt; your hand. Is this how they handle this in tournaments or in online implementations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:26:33.127" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:26:33.127" Title="Do you have to reveal your hand when using Treasure Map and not trashing a TM from your hand?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7087" CreationDate="2012-04-06T19:14:06.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking the card at face value, your reading of it seems to be correct.  But digging a little deeper, it turns out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seaside rules&lt;/a&gt; say otherwise (on page 4).  Let me quote them for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Treasure Map - You can play this without another Treasure Map&#xA;  in your hand; if you do, you trash this and gain nothing. You&#xA;  have to actually trash two copies of Treasure Map to gain the&#xA;  Golds...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T19:14:06.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7087" CreationDate="2012-04-06T20:41:34.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My intuition is that this card is just badly worded - Dominion hasn't had the many years that Magic the Gathering has had, to nail every single potential rules loophole down.  I think the card would probably be better off reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trash this, then you may also trash another copy of Treasure Map from&#xA;  your hand.  If you do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As things stand, I agree with you that the rule that Joe cites proves nothing: it only clarifies how to resolve Treasure Map when you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have another copy in your hand, not when you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think allowing players to trash Treasure Maps for the cost of an action is probably a lesser evil than forcing players to reveal their hands for good behaviour.   Dominion is a game based on honour amongst gentlemen (and ladies as well of course), and a gentleman's private hand is his castle... not to be invaded lightly! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-06T20:41:34.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2012-04-07T18:38:41.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the most common mistake new players (and even some experienced players) make when playing a cylon is waiting too long to reveal. There's a tendency to wait for that perfect moment when you can really hammer the humans with a timely reveal. But the reality is, those moments don't happen often and precious time is wasted waiting for it. Unless you are the Admiral or President, I think you can usually do more damage as a revealed cylon. This is especially true for inexperienced players. Experienced players understand the subtleties of the game and know how to wreck havok without revealing. However, I often think even experienced players would be more effective if they revealed sooner rather than later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm playing with someone who is new to the game, my standard advice to them is: if you are a cylon, reveal as soon as possible. It may not be the best strategic move, but new players often don't understand how to play unrevealed cylons well and, as you point out, it's difficult for them to ask questions without giving themselves away. Revealing immediately allows them to play the game much more effectively, because they can openly ask questions and solicit advice. Even though it's humans vs. cylons, most human players are very willing to give the cylons (especially a new player) good advice. I've found that they often enjoy the game more that way because they feel much more involved in what's going on. A new player playing an unrevealed cylon tends to be very passive and not do much at all out of fear of giving themselves away. That's generally not an enjoyable experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the revealing quickly strategy is even better when it's a group of experienced players playing with one or two new players, and there are enough players for there to be two cylons. If a new player is a cylon, they should just reveal and let the more experienced player lurk in the shadows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is general advice only. A lot depends on how much experience the new player has with similar games and how good of a general board gamer they are. However, my personal opinion is that it's generally better to reveal early rather than late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2014-08-03T19:34:39.780" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T19:34:39.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7093" CreationDate="2012-04-07T19:54:55.433" Score="14" ViewCount="33276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deathtouch means that &quot;any creature dealt damage by another creature with deathtouch is destroyed&quot;, but what if that creature with deathtouch is &lt;code&gt;0/1&lt;/code&gt;? I suppose a better title would be 'does a creature with 0 power deal damage in combat?', but it seems like deathtouch is the most prominent case where this would come into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:26:51.473" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T23:22:27.717" Title="If my creature with deathtouch and 0 power blocks one of my opponent's creatures, does my opponent's creature die?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7092" CreationDate="2012-04-07T20:09:22.153" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Deathtouch still requires that damage be dealt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2b Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch&#xA;is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature’s toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the more general rule as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.8. If a source would deal 0 damage, it does not deal damage at all. That means abilities that trigger&#xA;on damage being dealt won’t trigger. It also means that replacement effects that would increase the&#xA;damage dealt by that source, or would have that source deal that damage to a different object or&#xA;player, have no event to replace, so they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A corollary to all this is that a creature with deathtouch can only kill as many creature as it has points of damage to assign -- for instance, casting &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226905&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt; on your 2/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Acidic%20Slime&quot;&gt;Acidic Slime&lt;/a&gt; doesn't let you wipe out your opponent's whole team, just two blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:21:31.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:21:31.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7087" CreationDate="2012-04-08T00:45:46.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very similar question was posed on DominionStrategy.com (although now of course I can't find the link to the specific discussion). The thread was about paradoxes in which you aren't required by the rules to reveal your hand, but then your opponent couldn't verify that you in fact followed the directions on the card. The Treasure Map scenario was one of the examples mentioned in that thread; another example was Moneylender (which requires you to trash a Copper from your hand but has not clause about revealing a hand with no Copper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, let me first walk through what must happen in the scenario you outline, and what Donald X. (the game creator) has said about the potential for cheating in that scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your scenario is having a hand of Throne Room, three Treasure Maps, and a Copper. If you play the Throne Room, you are required to choose an Action card from your hand. The only choice is a Treasure Map, so you play that card twice. Both times, the card directions tell you to trash another Treasure Map from your hand, so you must do so both times because you have Treasure Maps in hand. The if clause is only satisfied the first time, though, so the second play of the original Treasure Map (from the Throne Room) does not cause you to gain the Golds a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the potential of cheating, Donald X.'s response (in paraphrase) is that it would be ridiculous to specify absolutely everything about the game, such as what constitutes valid shuffling (yes, this has been an intense discussion on DS.com), what the penalty is for breaking the rules, etc. In short: if you cheat, you're already breaking the rules; what would be the benefit of having a rule for what to do if someone breaks the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way the Isotropic server implements these situations is that the server requires you to take the actions that a card demands, and so it provides an objective enforcement of the rules. Because Treasure Map doesn't say to reveal your hand if you don't have a second Treasure Map, Isotropic doesn't show your opponent your hand. What your opponent would see is something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X plays a Throne Room&lt;br&gt;&#xA;…and plays a Treasure Map&lt;br&gt;&#xA;……trashing the Treasure Map and a Treasure Map from his hand&lt;br&gt;&#xA;……gaining 4 Golds on the top of the deck&lt;br&gt;&#xA;…and plays the Treasure Map again&lt;br&gt;&#xA;…trashing a Treasure Map from his hand&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing in an environment in which player's honor is not enough of a guarantee to avoid cheating, then that environment could specify additional procedures (such as having an ombudsperson to verify that the hand was played legally or using Isotropic, which would enforce the rules). You could specify a house rule of &quot;reveal the hand if you can't follow part of the directions,&quot; although that could potentially give the opponent additional information that they wouldn't have otherwise. But, that's all up to you. What the rules require is that, if you play the Throne Room, all three Treasure Maps will be trashed and if you don't do that then you're cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that, unlike what some posters below have said, the Treasure Map card should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; have been written with a &quot;may.&quot; Donald X. deliberately made the effect non-voluntary. He is very careful about getting card directions right, and that's one area where there's no ambiguity. Claims about the &quot;templates&quot; for other cards in the set miss the point; when Donald wants an effect to be voluntary, he uses, &quot;You may.&quot; Because he has a clear template he uses for other cards, you can rest assured that, since he didn't put that into Treasure Map, he didn't want that direction to be optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastEditorUserId="681" LastEditDate="2012-04-08T00:56:33.137" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T00:56:33.137" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7055" CreationDate="2012-04-08T00:57:21.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't want to steal any glory from the other answers, but one tip that might not be obvious to everyone the first time around: thoroughly read the rules for revealed Cylon actions &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; you start the game, so that when you're thinking about revealing, you know what you can do after, and don't have to tip your hand by reaching for the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T00:57:21.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2012-04-08T08:56:51.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played for the first time and thought of a way to add an additional role to the game. Have someone play the actual disease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 card maximum in hand&#xA;Draw rate is 3 cards&#xA;&quot;actions&quot; or infecting is = to the infection rate.&#xA;The epidemic cards can be split 50% into infection draw pile and the other 50% into the player draw pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does a few things for the game.&#xA;1. Makes the &quot;players&quot; more discreet of their plans.&#xA;2. Difficulty will rise with more players.&#xA;3. Allows for an additional player to be added.&#xA;4. Brings a different style of play to the game. Strategies etc.&#xA;5. Can be modified further to add more &quot;diseases&quot;, or &quot;players&quot; to the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all still a thought in process as I literally played for the first time tonight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2719" LastActivityDate="2012-04-08T08:56:51.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7099" CreationDate="2012-04-09T01:46:58.707" Score="19" ViewCount="2373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I think I've mastered Settlers, I discover yet another novel tactic or strategy. This time it's Robber placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've usually selected robber placement based on a combination of factors, including who is winning, which hex reduces the most dots worth of production (x2 for cities) that isn't mine, several variations on which resources are scarce, whether a 2:1 port for an abundant resource is occupied, and trying to take a card I need from a player I think likely to have it. Which of these factors to emphasize for any given robber placement is a fairly complicated decision that depends on what stage of the game you're in, how much the leader is winning by, and what you're needing next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this is standard stuff for those who have played more than a few games. But I just ran across an idea I hadn't heard before:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When not trying to stop someone close to winning, nearly always place the robber on the most valuable hex of the person on your right only. The reason for this is that this person won't be able to retaliate for at least 3 rolls of the dice (in a 4 player game), while the other players may be more favorably disposed to you for not getting them. And if this player (to your right) retaliates, it is immediately your turn next giving you a chance to possibly roll a 7 or play the robber (if you have it). So assuming robber retaliation is somewhat predictable, this seems to be a sound strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a strong opinion yet on how well the person-to-the-right robber placement strategy works - as I don't know how predictable retaliation is in general or with the specific groups I play with. But I do now wonder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For advanced Settlers players, what is optimal robber placement? Is it this player-to-the-right placement method (because retaliation is mostly predictable)? Is it the standard tactics I listed above? Or are there different and perhaps more subtle tactics for Robber placement I haven't even thought of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T21:44:09.397" LastActivityDate="2017-10-23T08:11:29.683" Title="What is optimal robber placement in Settlers?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-04-09T01:59:39.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do is buy some adhesive name badges from office max (office max number 412-587 or avery labels 5395) then a few decks of the same playing cards from the dollar store.  Then I just print out the labels and stick them to the cards.  The labels cost less than 20 bucks for 160 of them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2721" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T01:59:39.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7097" CreationDate="2012-04-09T02:34:45.637" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't figure out if you are asking one overly broad question, or many smaller-scoped questions... in any case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;player to the right&quot; strategy ignores a few possibilities, including:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - one or both of the two players after you roll a seven,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    - one or both of the two players after you play a soldier,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    -  your victim is known to (not) have in a particular resource in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retaliation is predictable in the sense that good players will make decisions based on cost/benefit/probability analysis (including &quot;dots&quot; on the chits, scarcity of resources, etc.), while poor players will be swayed by subjective reasoning (retaliation, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play with promises of immunity, bribes -  you name it. This makes it harder to pin-down a specific strategy, but I will say that it's mostly the analytical approach that you mention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T02:34:45.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7118" CreationDate="2012-04-09T05:51:03.087" Score="8" ViewCount="1064" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have kids, so we have lots of types of crayons in the house.  Everything from airline freebie to crayola.  None of them are very satisfactory for Eurorails (and related games).  Either they are too light to see or they won't erase easily.  The original factory crayons are long since gone/lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What crayon do people recommend for Eurorails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2722" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T21:43:50.870" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T02:36:42.763" Title="Erasable yet bold crayon for Empire Builder Games (e.g. Eurorails)?" Tags="|game-accessories|crayon-rail-games|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7100" CreationDate="2012-04-09T11:46:18.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Highly recommend China markers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0039Y2JXU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Like these)&lt;/a&gt;.  Just be sure to test them first.  I had a yellow one once that wouldn't entirely erase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T11:46:18.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7100" CreationDate="2012-04-09T11:54:35.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you will get a definitive answer, but probably just lots of suggestions. There has been.discussion about this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8584972#8584972&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;question before on BGG&lt;/a&gt;. You are going to get a range of answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Crayola Washable Crayons.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;China Markers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dry Erase Markers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wet Erase Markers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Standard Crayola Crayons&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T11:54:35.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7130" CreationDate="2012-04-09T13:25:45.947" Score="10" ViewCount="5026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played the board game &lt;em&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/em&gt;. I have read some reviews and seen a gameplay video of &lt;em&gt;Elder Sign: Omens&lt;/em&gt;, the iOS app based on the board game, but I haven't been able to find info on exactly how similar the two are. I see that they even share the same tag on here, so I'm guessing they are pretty close, but I'd like to know more definitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;em&gt;Elder Sign: Omen&lt;/em&gt; basically a straight-up single player version of the board game, or are there some mechanical differences between the two? If so, how do they differ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T04:12:07.617" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T04:12:07.617" Title="What are the differences between Elder Sign and Elder Sign: Omens?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7106" CreationDate="2012-04-09T14:22:17.180" Score="5" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/43015/hansa-teutonica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hansa Teutonica&lt;/a&gt;, I know that for the initial three golden Bonus Markers (I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; that's the right term for the English version), you place them on the specified beginning locations face down, then flip them up. When you claim a route and take the Bonus Marker that is on that route, you immediately draw one from the pile of Bonus Markers, where they lay face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you allowed to look at the Bonus Marker before you place it on a new route on the board? Our group couldn't find anything in the rules explicitly addressing this, so we've been playing under the assumption that we're allowed to look at it before deciding where we want to place it, but I'd like some confirmation, as it would impact tactical play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're playing the Dutch version (Hanzesteden), in case that may account for a missed translation or somesuch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="367" LastEditorUserId="1626" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T11:34:53.203" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T11:34:53.203" Title="Can you look at a Bonus Marker before placing it on the board?" Tags="|hansa-teutonica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7056" CreationDate="2012-04-09T17:19:14.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a more general answer, covering all the cards that changed their wording in time: the WotC modified plenty of cards, in order to make them clearer, or more playable, or to adapt to changing rules. The &quot;real&quot; and &quot;currently working&quot; wording / interpretation is the one that is stated in &quot;The Oracle&quot;, that is the final authority in these matters, and is then stored in the WotC website (the Gatherer section).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic: The Gathering Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T17:19:14.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7104" CreationDate="2012-04-09T19:48:04.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group has always played that you could look, but while digging through the rulebook to support that decision, I've come to the conclusion that the opposite is true and that you &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/5e9p31d23o/Hansa_Teutonica_English_Rules_%28Revised_1.6%29.pdf?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From the English rules:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each bonus marker a player obtains during his turn, he should draw&#xA;  a new bonus marker from the supply and &lt;strong&gt;put it face down on the tin&#xA;  plate on his player mat without looking at it&lt;/strong&gt;. Before the next player&#xA;  starts his turn, these bonus marker(s) should be placed next to any&#xA;  route(s) of the player’s choice that meet the following three&#xA;  conditions: (i) no bonus marker is already on that trade route, (ii)&#xA;  no resource is located on that trade route (i.e., all fields need to&#xA;  be empty) and (iii) there is at least one available (i.e. open) Office&#xA;  space in an adjacent city to the route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could still argue it's up for debate since it doesn't explicitly state that you cannot look at it before placing it, but based on the fact that you can't look at it when you receive it, and it never states that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; look at it, I think the implied answer is that no, you cannot look. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastEditorUserId="2123" LastEditDate="2012-04-09T20:04:59.270" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T20:04:59.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6648" CreationDate="2012-04-09T21:40:35.837" Score="-10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say you can't pay 2 multiple times; it says &quot;Pay 2 and put a copy,&quot; nowhere does it state this ability can only be activated once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since it dose not state a limit it should work multiple times provided you pay 2 for each copy since each &quot;pay 2&quot; is added to the stack as the artifact comes into play, then it resolves and the copies are made. &#xA;Since this is actually not a triggered ability it is actually an activated ability since mana is payed for it to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, triggered abilities resolve as the result of an action being made, i.e. a land entering and you gaining life--no mana cost involved. If there is mana involved it always states you cannot activate more than once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And activated ability, e.g. &quot;Pay 1 red, get +1/+0 until end of turn,&quot; since it does not say you cannot pay 10 red and get +10/+0, you can! &#xA;Mirrorworks is both a triggered and an activated ability since its conditional is &quot;When a nontoken...&quot; and its activated is &quot;Pay 2...&quot; you can pay 2 multiple times provided it is paid as the artifact is put into play since each instance of the pay 2 resolves at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, because the card does not state &quot;this can only be activated once,&quot; it should be able to be activated multiple times for the same card, and after you have paid the 2 for each copy you wish to make then the copies come into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it can only be activated once it should say &quot;Pay 2 only once&quot;. With the text as is, you should be able to pay 2 multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2725" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T17:55:33.593" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:55:33.593" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7087" CreationDate="2012-04-09T23:08:46.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a strict reading of the rules suggests that the player must trash the 3rd treasure map if they play Throne Room + Treasure Map, there's no particular reason to enforce it, as if the player does not want to trash the third treasure map, they need only refrain from playing the Throne Room in the first place.  In that case, they would simply play the Treasure map (trashing a second), and discard the Throne Room and 3rd Treasure map unplayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it really doesn't matter -- what happens is entirely up to the player, as they get to decide which cards to play in the first place.  The only point of playing the Throne Room in this case is to allow the player to trash the 3rd Treasure Map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T23:08:46.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7097" CreationDate="2012-04-09T23:33:51.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you say, the decision of where to place the robber depends on a lot of factors, and their weight depends on the particular situation. I think it is worth considering turn order and likely robber residence-times, but these are just additional factors to consider. And whether each player has unplayed development cards that could be soldiers should be considered along with seat placement. If everyone has (potential) soldiers, then, all else being equal, I think the player-to-the-right would be the optimal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-04-09T23:33:51.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7111" CreationDate="2012-04-10T04:08:25.527" Score="5" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been playing a bit of the excellent (and silly) &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/633/elixir&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elixir&lt;/a&gt;, but we often end up with long periods of inactivity. When players are unable to cast spells, we have several rounds where all players draw their card and then pass, since they don't have the right ingredients. This can go on for some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried doubling the draw rate so players pick up more ingredients - this seems to work, but might unbalance some of the &quot;draw X cards&quot; magic items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a problem others have encountered? Are there any official or well-tested solutions - do any of the expansions (which we haven't tried) address this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T21:58:48.610" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T21:58:48.610" Title="Is there an official way to speed up Elixir?" Tags="|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7110" CreationDate="2012-04-10T05:33:23.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, others have encountered this problem. At least one poster on BGG (Tim, it isn't you, is it?), posted that the game drags and proposed a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/411226/variant-draw-2-cards-at-the-start-of-the-turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Draw 2 Variant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there is no official variant to my knowledge. No variants are listed in the rule books for Elixir or any of it's three expansions. No variants are listed on the designers websites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure precisely how your Draw 2 cards/finds is a better solution to just drawing 1 card and passing. You only pass half as often (since you are drawing 2), but how long does it take to Draw 1 and Pass in the first place? How much time are you actually saving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T05:33:23.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-10T12:17:12.190" Score="14" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairly recently, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_Go&quot;&gt;Computer Go&lt;/a&gt; programs became able to compete with humans using Monte-Carlo Search trees:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Monte Carlo (MC) go program plays &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt; games and easily evaluates the &lt;em&gt;terminal&lt;/em&gt; position (win or loss). A MC program searches for moves that have high win rates, calculated from playing out at least a few hundred random games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is a very simplified description. In practice one want to explore interesting branches with higher priority, so the randomness has to be controlled in some way using collected results. To play go at a reasonable level several millions of random games still have to be played out. But, hopefully it's quite fast to play randomly…)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like a lot more games could be “addressed” using this method, and that could include maybe a vast majority of board games…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has the Monte Carlo method already been applied to other games? (Are there concrete implementations available?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For which kind of games, among those that have clearly stated rules and won't rely on complex communication between players, this method can be expected to fail?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:29:26.347" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:29:26.347" Title="Computer Go algorithms applied to other games?" Tags="|go|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7114" CreationDate="2012-04-10T13:17:37.953" Score="4" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has recently acquired some models from 40K that look like space marines/chaos marines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify which army their from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z175h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T14:57:14.220" Title="Which 40K army is this?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7113" CreationDate="2012-04-10T14:57:14.220" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ship in the back is a Dark Eldar Raider.  The big robot thing behind it is a Chaos Dreadnought.  The infantry also appear to be Chaos Space Marines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T14:57:14.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-10T15:01:28.333" Score="11" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the zombie cards, known as 'Shamble', has the following card text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play this card to move a Zombie D6 spaces instead of its normal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Look out!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you pick the zombie, then roll to see how far it moves?  Or do you roll a d6, and then pick a zombie to move that many spaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T16:30:58.037" Title="Do you have to select a zombie before you roll a d6 for Shamble?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7115" CreationDate="2012-04-10T16:30:58.037" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/1737165#1737165&quot;&gt;game designer's response to the question on Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;, you should pick the zombie before rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When playing Shamble you should choose the Zombie and then roll to see how far they get to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2123" LastActivityDate="2012-04-10T16:30:58.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7120" CreationDate="2012-04-10T16:31:18.630" Score="4" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can use Bonds of Loyalty to recruit yet another unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can be reused as a normal command token (without the special boni).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is discarded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T22:55:44.997" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T22:55:44.997" Title="What happens if a unit recruited with &quot;Bonds of Loyalty&quot; dies due to paralyze?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7100" CreationDate="2012-04-11T09:43:34.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to take the map to a map or printing shop, laminate it properly, and use overhead pens. Or to use clear laminate purchased in rolls at a home-decorating or home improvement shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I used china markers on a couple crayon maps in the past, and even they don't erase completely cleanly from all &quot;factory laminated&quot; boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good option is a sheet of plexiglass or sheet vinyl and overhead pens over the map. Plexiglass sheets are available in many home repair shops. Rolled clear vinyl is available in many fabric stores (for making covers for furniture and for covering lace tablecloths). These have the advantage of being able to be washed in the sink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T09:43:34.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7117" CreationDate="2012-04-11T10:41:13.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/761808/quick-queries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/761808/quick-queries&lt;/a&gt; for some useful discussion on this subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would agree with the consensus towards the end of that thread, that if you can find a clever way of getting rid of the unit recruited with Bonds of Loyalty, such as Paralyzing it to death, you can reuse the Bonds of Loyalty, bonus and all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T10:41:13.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7117" CreationDate="2012-04-11T12:50:33.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Bonds of Loyalty to recruit another unit with the bonus it offers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a discussion about this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8445411#8445411&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;question on BGG&lt;/a&gt;. The last poster quotes &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7509623#7509623&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paul Grogan&lt;/a&gt;, who is the maintainer of the Official FAQ for the game and appears to be at least partially responsible for the writing of the rule book. A unit recruited by Bonds of Loyalty cannot be disbanded, but &lt;strong&gt;Paralyze&lt;/strong&gt; destroys the unit and removes it from the game. This is probably the &amp;quot;clever way&amp;quot; that Paul Grogan was talking about of replacing a Bond of Loyalty recruited unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Paul Grogan's post regarding &lt;strong&gt;Bonds of Loyalty&lt;/strong&gt;, emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other skill is Bonds of Loyalty. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, this skill gives you an extra command token. i.e The Skill itself counts as another command token, so you can recruit one more Unit. When you gain this Skill, you add 2 more regular Units to the Unit offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Unit that you recruit into this slot costs you 5 less Influence to recruit. But it doesn't stop there. This unit is so loyal to you, it can be used even in situations when you couldn't normally use Units (i.e when down Dungeons or burning down a Monastery)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only slight downside of this Skill is that you cant dismiss voluntarily the Unit that you recruit into this slot, so if you use it in the early game to recruit a low level Unit, &lt;strong&gt;you're going to have to find a clever way of getting rid of it if you want to replace it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paralysis&lt;/strong&gt; definition from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/mage/mage-knight-rulebook-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Unit is assigned damage by a Paralyzing enemy and would be given a Wound, it is immediately destroyed (remove it from the game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T12:14:12.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5222" CreationDate="2012-04-11T14:55:21.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;List tailoring is a bit of a Faux Pas in miniature gaming.  You, shouldn't build a list specifically to beat a single opponent.  Massing heavy bolters would be a step down on that path.  Heavy bolters are also a fairly limited weapon, since they are nearly useless against most armor.  A better weapon choice would be autocannons or asssault cannons.  They strike a balance that makes them good for anti-infantry and light anti-armor work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that your current list does lack in long range anti-infantry fire power. This would make you easy pickings for a foot heavy guard list.  Here are a few units that you could add to your army to try to address that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Predator with Autocannon and Heavy Bolter sponsons.  This is a cheap option at 85 points each.  They bring front armor 13 and 2 ST 7 shots and 6 ST 5 ones.  Taking 3 is a good use of your heavy support slots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dreadnought with two twin-linked Autocannons.  For 125 points, you get 4 ST 7 shots with re-rolls.  This is a great fire support unit as it will also give your guard opponent trouble if he decides to mount his army up in Chimeras. It's fairly common to see 2 or 3 in a Marine army.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speeder with Multi-Melta and Heavy Flamer.  Not specifically long range, but they are fast and can deep strike.  You can drop them right on your opponent's infantry squads and use that Flamer template to kill plenty of guardsmen outright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your tactical squads, Missile Launchers or Multi-meltas should be your choice 90% of the time.  You'l get the most use out of them.  You should give your sergeants either power fists or a combi-weapon.  You already have plenty of ST 4 firepower in a tac-squad; you need your sergeants to cover your weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another completely different approach is to load up on flame template weapons, mount up in drop pods, and land in his face.  He won't ever want to run foot guard again after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T16:49:44.967" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T16:49:44.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5118" CreationDate="2012-04-11T15:54:00.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Captains and Masters are OK.  They are good at combat, but they don't really do anything to support the army.  They make a good second HQ choice unless you want to run bikes as troops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chaplains can boost a single squad, but he'll really only get one or two opportunities to earn his points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Master of The Forge can be good, but he can get pretty expensive and never is quite as efficient as a Captain or Master.  Take him only if you want to run a list with 6 dreadnoughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Librarian is the best generic HQ option for this list. Join him to the Terminator Squad and he will be protected by the independent character rules.  I'd personally just run him in power-armor to save on points, but Terminator armor with a storm shield is also a good setup.  Power-wise, I'd give him Null Zone and Gate of Infinity.  Gate will allow him to move the terminators around the board and Null Zone will help against any annoying invulnerable save death star units&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a good special character option to run with your list, I think Shrike would be the best fit.  Infiltrating fleeting terminators or assault squads can be lots of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T15:54:00.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7124" CreationDate="2012-04-11T16:09:37.423" Score="2" ViewCount="2931" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new Miracle mechanic causes a replacement effect for the casting cost of the card, which must be revealed and played immediately. How does this interact with flashback? If a player plays a card for its Miracle cost, what is the flashback cost of the card if it's flashed back with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2599" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:20:27.670" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:20:27.670" Title="How does the Miracle mechanic interact with Flashback?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7123" CreationDate="2012-04-11T16:22:34.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/strong&gt;: Bold for emphasis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flash&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Snapcaster Mage enters the battlefield, target instant or sorcery card in your graveyard gains flashback until end of turn. The flashback cost &lt;strong&gt;is equal to its mana cost.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(You may cast that card from your graveyard for its flashback cost. Then exile it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flashback cost will be the mana cost of the card, shown on the top right corner of the card. Alternative costs such as the Miracle cost are irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if you had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bösium Strip&lt;/a&gt; in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miracle {cost} &lt;em&gt;(You may cast this card for its miracle cost when you draw it if it's the first card you drew this turn.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Miracle cost may only be payed if that card is the first card drawn from your library in a turn, and only &lt;strong&gt;when you draw the card.&lt;/strong&gt; Clearly if the card is in your graveyard, it cannot be drawn, so the replacement effect for the casting cost will never apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, note the implications for a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39628&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Future Sight&lt;/a&gt;. If you play the top card in your library that's revealed, you won't be drawing it, so you must pay full cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T20:30:41.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7123" CreationDate="2012-04-11T16:47:26.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miracle is an ability that only applies &lt;em&gt;as you draw the card&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; This has no interaction with casting from the graveyard. (I can't speak for future MTR, but I'm assuming judges won't let you pay the miracle cost if you've already let the card touch your other hand cards, period.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the general rule is that alternative costs don't mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.9a Only one alternative cost can be applied to any one spell as it's being cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only by paying the &lt;em&gt;alternative cost&lt;/em&gt; for flashback that you are allowed to play the spell from your graveyard in the first place; normal cost modifiers (like Thorn of Amethyst) and additional costs (like kicker) still apply, but the base cost is the flashback cost and &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; the flashback cost, not the miracle cost or madness cost or any other alternative cost. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt; you've given flashback with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227676&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;, for example, will still cost 2UU to play even in circumstances where it would cost 0 to play from your hand (due to its trap ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-11T17:37:31.047" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T17:37:31.047" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-11T20:42:58.367" Score="8" ViewCount="1799" Body="&lt;p&gt;For independent reasons, I was looking recently for cards that interact with Sacrificing. At the time (owing mostly to my lack of knowledge in MtG templating), I found none. Looking at the Avacyn restored preview card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sigarda%2C%20Host%20of%20Herons&quot;&gt;Sigarda, Host of Herons&lt;/a&gt; brought back the question, which was further piqued when I noticed that another preview cards is intended to &amp;quot;mess with&amp;quot; sacrificing (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angel%20of%20Jubilation&quot;&gt;Angel of Jubilation&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through Gatherer (with the above caveat), I found only a few cards cards (Sigarda's predecessor &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tajuru%20Preserver&quot;&gt;Tajuru Preserver&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Appeasement&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Furnace%20Celebration&quot;&gt;Furnace Celebration&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savra%2C%20Queen%20of%20the%20Golgari&quot;&gt;Savra, Queen of the Golgari&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mortician%20Beetle&quot;&gt;Mortician Beetle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thraximundar&quot;&gt;Thraximundar&lt;/a&gt;) with sacrifice trigger effects. I found no card with trigger effects when they are sacrificed to other cards (something which, coming fro a YGO background, I am used to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was my research too incomplete or are there really just few cards that interact with Sacrificing other than as a cost or effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are so few, do you see any design-related reason for it? I mean, given the prevalence of effects triggering by entering the battlefield, drawing cards, creatures dying, attacking, blocking/being blocked etc., it seems strange that such a prevalent game action as sacrificing would have been ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:19:21.300" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:19:21.300" Title="Are cards that interact with sacrificing rare, and why?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7126" CreationDate="2012-04-11T21:06:31.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason is that &amp;quot;when something is sacrificed&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;when something is exiled&amp;quot; are mechanics that pigeonhole a card into a very narrow range of decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that can sacrifice themselves (as part of the cost for an activated ability) are much easier to use than cards that do something when sacrificed but require an external ability to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a simple death trigger will also work with sacrifice without restricting the card so narrowly. (You can also uses &amp;quot;leaves the battlefield,&amp;quot; if you want to trigger on exile or return-to-hand effects as well.) This way, a card that works optimally as fuel for a sacrifice engine can also be used in other circumstances, e.g. as a value-added chump blocker. Broadening synergy is particularly relevant in Limited (i.e. draft), where players won't necessarily be able to play the 2-3 cards that go best together in the same deck all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The major exceptions are cards designed to be the lynchpin of &amp;quot;Johnny&amp;quot; decks that would be, well, &amp;quot;too good&amp;quot; if they were based on straight-up death triggers. This is where cards like Savra fit in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alara block had the devour mechanic, which was usually rather weak outside of a few cards. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Appeasement&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt; offers a way to at least make those decks fun in a casual environment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rise of the Eldrazi has the annihilator mechanic, which &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tajuru%20Preserver&quot;&gt;Tajuru Preserver&lt;/a&gt; defends against. Mortician Beetle is designed to interact with all the self-sacrificing Eldrazi Spawn tokens in the set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scars-Innistrad Standard involves a lot of hexproof creatures, which are immune to spot removal. Effects that force an opponent to sacrifice a creature (commonly called &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4656&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;edicts&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; by long-time players) can get around that immunity. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sigarda&quot;&gt;Sigarda&lt;/a&gt; shuts down that plan and forces opponents to use blockers and sweepers to deal with your creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In part, you're seeing this design space explored more now because Magic's M10 rules changes, which removed a timing interaction that allowed players to sacrifice a creature while still trading with an opponent's creature in combat, have allowed designers to push the power of sacrifice effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T22:25:23.790" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T22:25:23.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7126" CreationDate="2012-04-11T21:14:44.120" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I found no card with trigger effects when they are sacrificed to other cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/124&quot; title=&quot;Scars of Mirrodin Design&quot;&gt;design article&lt;/a&gt;, Mark Rosewater said: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Originally, Perilous Myr dealt 1 damage when it was put into the&#xA;  graveyard from play but 3 damage if it was sacrificed. And it wasn't&#xA;  the only artifact creature with this rider. As I explained in parts 1&#xA;  and 2, black and red had a sacrifice theme that was a little stronger&#xA;  in the design handoff. The biggest problem with the rider was the&#xA;  phrase &quot;When CARDNAME is sacrificed&quot; led many players to believe that&#xA;  they were allowed to sacrifice it whenever they wanted. The&#xA;  development team decided that having a death trigger was cleaner and&#xA;  still would be slightly better in a deck capable of sacrificing its&#xA;  artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Mark Rosewater considers sacrifice triggers of that kind bad design. Not that it couldn't work, just that the benefit of putting them into a set is not worth the complexity. Triggering when a card goes to the graveyard is just close enough in most cases that the sacrifice effect is not worth the potential confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2012-04-11T21:14:44.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2012-04-11T22:45:51.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beef up the front. Move in all units from Caucasus to Ukraine, and all armor divisions from the East into Belarussia. Put aeroplanes, infantry, artillery, and maybe even AA guns in Belarussia, some in Leningrad, and a small force in Archangel. Thus the Germans may attack the front and be anihalated, while you just bring up more inf. Then began the long march to Berlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now comes the theory part.&#xA;Send US transports and destroyers to Morocco, and offload units, inf. arm. and art., use British units in Egypt and the Middle East to take Libya. Then get rid of Tunisia. Thus the Nazi IPC income will be depleted. Use subs to destroy any naval units Northern Italy churns out. Keep steady convoys to and from the UK. Have one in UK, and another in US at all times, and keep a destroyer or two in the Atlantic and Danish Strait. Then take Italy from North Africa. Thus you are south of Germany and with an Ind. Com. as well. Send bombers into Germany from Italy, take Vichy France, Yugoslavia, Greece, and Bulgaria. Thus greatly decreasing Nazi IPCs. Then the Russians are able to push forward. The Northern force must take Scandinavia and Land all Northern troops in Denmark. Use US and UK forces in the west to invade the French Mainland, and then comes the huge battle for Berlin herself. All units come into play here and are mobilized, fighters, bombers, battleships, destroyers, subs, infantry, artillery, tanks, and transports. Then it's just punch and kill. Easy. Unless you're new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2735" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-04-19T06:17:42.527" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T06:17:42.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7103" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:24:19.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a thread on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7783006#7783006&quot;&gt;BGG discussing the changes&lt;/a&gt;. They are far to numerous to mention all the changes, but some of the most notable are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no allies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells are cast after rolling, but don't carry over to other investigators.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only 1-4 investigators instead of 1-8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no midnight events.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assisting investigators aren't penalized when you fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monsters are added automatically, you cannot choose where they are placed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T04:06:35.453" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T04:06:35.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6410" CreationDate="2012-04-12T03:39:03.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you cannot get any more definitive than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8926389#8926389&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;designer himself, Mr. Bistro&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Is Paelleall's Wrath of the Volcano ability include hitting all other heroes on Paelleall's current tile, and any figures standing on the Entrance Tile as well? I would assume that it does, but it isn't clear to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes, that is the intent. Every tile in the path is hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T03:39:03.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-12T08:49:45.413" Score="7" ViewCount="4952" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine casts a card that has protection from all colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I can counter it, but can I simply kill it by dealing damage to it while it is on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2736" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:36:49.267" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:36:49.267" Title="Can a creature with protection from all colors be targetted with a damage spell when it is still on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7132" CreationDate="2012-04-12T09:28:16.240" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NO, you cannot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;302. Creatures&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.1. A player who has priority may cast a creature card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Casting a creature as a spell uses the stack. (See rule 601, &amp;quot;Casting Spells.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.2. When a creature spell resolves, its controller puts it onto the battlefield under his or her control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only when the spell resolves is the creature actually on the battlefield. You can counter it, because while on the stack that creature isn't actually a &amp;quot;creature&amp;quot; but a &amp;quot;creature spell&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.2. Only permanents are legal targets for spells and abilities, unless a spell or ability (a) specifies that it can target an object in another zone or a player, (b) targets an object that can't exist on the battlefield, such as a spell or ability, or (c) targets a zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only damage a creature when it is already on the battlefield. Because that creature has protection from all colors, you cannot target it or deal damage to it with colored spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T12:31:11.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7132" CreationDate="2012-04-12T11:51:12.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot damage or destroy creatures on the stack, because creatures do not exist on the stack, &amp;quot;Creature Spells&amp;quot; do. When a spell or ability is referring to a creature, and it doesn't use &amp;quot;card,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;spell,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;source,&amp;quot; it is referring to a creature permanent. Permanents only exist on the battlefield. Damage can only be dealt to creature/planeswalker permanents (or Players, who are not Objects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it’s moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.1a Damage can’t be dealt to an object that’s neither a creature nor a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also cannot destroy a creature through some other means than damage for precisely the same reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6a To destroy a permanent, move it from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T13:09:25.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="485" CreationDate="2012-04-12T16:55:19.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always go with a Klaw for your Nobz in either biker or normal boyz squads.  You need this because Orks are not terribly good in close combat against certain enemies.  Walkers, heavy tanks, and units with 3+ or 2+ saves can usually fend off a charge from Orks. You need the Klaw to be able to break even in these situations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without that Klaw, your Orks could get tied up in combat with a Space Marine Dreadnought you can't hurt.  You'll also have a hard time against infantry hiding in transports.  It's hard to destroy even an armor 10 vehicle in hand-to-hand with only ST 6(from the Choppa).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider: a charging unit of 10 Ork bikes will only kill about 2-3 Marines on average(30 attacks, 15 hit, 7.5 wound, 5 save).  All it takes in this instance is for the Marine player to roll a little above average, and the Ork player to roll a little under average for the Marines to win the assault.  The one or two outright kills you get from a Klaw will help make sure you are going to win the assault.  It's even more important if you face a unit with a 3+ save and Feel No Pain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry too much about the loss of Initiative from the Klaw.  Even with boosted Initiative on the charge, most things in the game that can hurt you are already swinging first.  You're opponent will also have to wipe out the whole unit to prevent that Klaw from getting its attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all Nob units, you don't have to give every Nob a Klaw.  You can give most of the unit Choppas to save on points and get the most out of the wound allocation rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T16:55:19.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7112" CreationDate="2012-04-12T20:33:41.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, one needs to understand the differences between Chess and Go from a game complexity standpoint.  Next, one must understand the differences between the two types of AI algorithms, and why one works for Chess and the other doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both chess and Go are &lt;em&gt;perfect information&lt;/em&gt; games with no &lt;em&gt;stochastic&lt;/em&gt; elements.  This means you can always see the full state of the game, and there is no chance or luck involved (no dice to roll, no unlucky card draws).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the games can thus be distilled to the number of possible moves each turn (# of decisions or choices) and the length of the game.  I'm skipping a more formal analysis of search tree sizes, state space sizes, etc., in order to provide a more intuitive understanding of the differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For chess, the average number of possible moves at a typical point in the game is about 30 different moves.  A typical game lasts about 40 moves.   For Go, there are about 250 choices per move and the game lasts about 150 moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that there is much, much more evaluation of possible moves, far farther into the future with Go than with Chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what makes it possible for human to play is that in Go the pieces are all alike, we can target patterns instead of positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A traditional chess AI uses something called an Evaluation Function which uses shortcuts (like assigning more points for queens than for pawns) to evaluate a board and say that a state of the game is better or worse for one player than the other.  With Go, it's very difficult to come up with an evaluation function, since the pieces are the same and territory is not set in stone until nearly the end of the game.  This is why the traditional chess-AI approach to Go has failed, the larger decision and state spaces are impossible to prune, so the search is ineffective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's flip the problem and see why using Monte Carlo on chess might be a bad idea.  Since random play doesn't distinguish between 'good moves' and 'bad moves', a large majority of the random plays will be exploring obviously bad game trees.  For example, sacrificing your queen for no advantage, or making it vulnerable and having the opponent not exploit it.   Little information is gained by averaging in the results of individual bad moves.  This type of AI will work, but it would require much more computation than the usual evaluative approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, much more of the winning/losing is evident by looking at the pieces in Chess than it is by Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why does Monte Carlo work for Go (i.e. can beat humans)?  It works because both humans and computers are &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; bad at playing Go (compared to theoretical perfect play).  Monte Carlo random play sampling works because no higher-level of understanding of patterns is necessary than can be obtained in a computationally efficient manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do other board games compare?  Let's ask ourselves these questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the board situation be easily evaluated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many decisions/moves are possible each turn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many decisions need to be made in a typical game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How predictable are the outcomes of each move?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most board games will show characteristics that make them far closer to chess than Go for the first 3 questions.  This is highly suggestive that a chess style-AI will be easier, faster, and more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since #4 is different for both Chess and Go, let's see how it affects the two algorithms.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we had a random factor, let's say, drawing a card from a stack of 60, each decision to draw a card will branch the game into 60 possible outcomes.  Depending on what other players draw, their choices will change, which again puts us in the position of sampling many states are are highly unlikely or impossible (arguing against Monte Carlo).  Meanwhile, an evaluation function can easily be written to give values to each card (combined with the state of the board). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not seen Monte Carlo applied to other board game AIs, and the above are some of the reasons why.  Those are also the reasons why it's expected to fail.  When it fails it can fail spectacularly in that it's doing boneheaded, obvious bad moves because the 'random' outcomes from the samples just happened to be irrational far down the future random choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to read more, I suggest these sites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://aaai.org/AITopics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://aaai.org/AITopics/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://beej.us/blog/data/monte-carlo-method-game-ai/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://beej.us/blog/data/monte-carlo-method-game-ai/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aihorizon.com/essays/chessai/intro.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.aihorizon.com/essays/chessai/intro.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-04-12T23:09:38.730" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T23:09:38.730" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7112" CreationDate="2012-04-12T22:05:34.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I did a little bit of research. Quoting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.personeel.unimaas.nl/g-chaslot/papers/AIIDE08_Chaslot.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the last few years, several Monte-Carlo based techniques emerged in the ﬁeld of computer games. They have&#xA;  already been applied successfully to many games, including POKER (Billings et al. 2002) and SCRABBLE (Sheppard 2002). Monte-Carlo Tree Search (MCTS), a Monte-Carlo&#xA;  based technique that was ﬁrst established in 2006, is implemented in top-rated GO programs. These programs defeated&#xA;  for the ﬁrst time professional GO players on the 9 × 9 board.&#xA;  However, the technique is not speciﬁc to GO or classical-board games, but can be generalized easily to modern board-games or video games. Furthermore, its implementation is&#xA;  quite straightforward. In the proposed demonstration, we&#xA;  will illustrate that MCTS can be applied effectively to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;classic board-games (such as GO)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;modern board-games (such as SETTLERS OF CATAN), and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;video games (such as the SPRING RTS game).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it seems that it was already applied to some other games. And they mention explicit implementations, but don't provide links to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastActivityDate="2012-04-12T22:05:34.453" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7112" CreationDate="2012-04-13T02:54:15.990" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has the Monte Carlo method already been applied to other games? (Are there concrete implementations available?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.umd.edu/Grad/scholarlypapers/papers/Rajkumar.pdf&quot;&gt;Grad paper&lt;/a&gt; might be of interest to you. It covers Backgammon, Bridge, Go, Scrabble, and Clobber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backgammon, implementation &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TD-Gammon&quot;&gt;TD-gammon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge, implementation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greatgameproducts.com/download.cfm&quot;&gt;Bridge Barron&lt;/a&gt;. Probably outclassed these days by other &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_bridge&quot;&gt;computer implementations&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrabble, implementation &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maven_%28Scrabble%29&quot;&gt;MAVEN&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For which kind of games, among those that have clearly stated rules and won't rely on complex communication between players, this method can be expected to fail?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, Monte Carlo methods don't do very well with end games in general. You will find that many computer implementations that use Monte Carlo methods employ different algorithms when playing the endgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MAVEN uses B* search algorithms during the endgame (no more tile to draw).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MoGo uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://hal.inria.fr/docs/00/11/72/66/PDF/MoGoReport.pdf&quot;&gt;3x3 patterns&lt;/a&gt; to help identify &quot;interesting&quot; moves, and Upper Confidence applied to Trees (UCT) to help prune less optimal random moves from consideration and speed up searching.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Monte Carlo methods are a useful tool in playing board games, they aren't a perfect solution. Computer Go programs using MCTS, are still unable to beat the best players on 19x19 boards without significant handicaps. Computer Bridge programs are no match for expert players. Monte Carlo methods will only approach perfect game with infinite time/space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-14T05:58:19.117" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T05:58:19.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7097" CreationDate="2012-04-13T06:34:35.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My answer is very subjective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play for fun and not very competitively so when placing the robber, I take into account the &quot;human factor&quot;. This is my thinking, &quot;where you place the robber isn't as important as who you hurt by placing the robber&quot;. Maybe I just play with really vindictive players, but I find the robber really pees some people off. They stop trading with you and the talk trash about you, turning other players against you and now you have no chance of non-bank trading. (Also in the Cities and Knights expansion, people can really hurt you if they want to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best Catan player I know places the robber on a 2 then 3,4,5,6,8,9,10,11,12 just so people know he's not trying to hurt anyone. It seemed to work for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to play on the 6 or 8 that two other players have built around. That way at least your spreading the pain around rather than targeting an individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2449" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T06:34:35.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-13T17:42:00.507" Score="5" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/Documents/Briefings/2nd-Infantry-Division.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2nd Infantry Division&lt;/a&gt; online briefing for Flames of War has a special rule called Ivory X that lets you fire anti-tank guns and anti-aircraft guns like a normal artillery bombardment.  The briefing lists the strength, anti-tank, and firepower values of these bombardments as '-'.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that they use the normal direct fire stats (seems overpowered)?  Or do they fire with essentially 0's, meaning they can't hurt armor or dug-in infantry outside of causing pinning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T16:23:51.040" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T06:02:17.630" Title="What are the strength and firepower of Ivory X bombardments?" Tags="|flames-of-war|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-13T17:48:52.643" Score="4" ViewCount="2749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused as to the rules for a Breakthrough gun in Flames of War.  Unlike the bunker buster it doesn't have a dedicated section in the rule book that I can find.  It is mentioned as not allowing infantry saves like a bunker buster, but the rule book doesn't state if it follows the other rules for a bunker buster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:38:21.650" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:38:21.650" Title="What does a Breakthrough gun do?" Tags="|flames-of-war|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12990" CreationDate="2012-04-13T19:40:43.780" Score="1" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new lists for 4th and 7th armored divisions let you mix and match Sherman M4A3s, M4A3 76s, M4A3E8s, and Sherman Jumbos.  The various versions vary greatly in terms of firepower, speed, and points cost, so I'm having trouble coming up with an effective selection.  I would like to have a unit that is as homogeneous as possible, but I'd also like to use some Easy Eights.  Unfortunately, they are limited to only two per platoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good combinations of Sherman types for both an Armored Company and as support in an Armored Rifle Company?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-15T23:40:46.803" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:18:41.747" Title="Effective combinations of Shermans out of Blood, Guts, and Glory" Tags="|flames-of-war|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5222" CreationDate="2012-04-13T19:47:08.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to turn the tables on him a bit, take a couple of drop pods with some flamer tac squads and a dreadnought with a flamer / multi-melta.  This would force him to choose between starting with his army on the table (and then having it horribly burned by the drop pod assault) or starting his army in reserve (to dodge the drop pod assault) and then giving your main force the time it needs to sprint across the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-04-13T19:47:08.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13670" CreationDate="2012-04-14T10:49:44.513" Score="9" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;The revised rules for preparing the Loyalty deck when using the &quot;Exodus&quot; expansion say that in a 6-player game, we should build a deck with an additional &quot;You are not a Cylon&quot; card (compared to the core rules for Loyalty deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in a six-player game, after the first round of dealing the cards, we will have 7 cards, and one of them is the Sympathizer card. So in theory, it is possible that one of the Cylon cards (or the Sympathizer card) will never be drawn. Since one card is added to the Loyalty deck before drawing a new Loyalty after execution, it is possible that even after an execution there will only be one Cylon on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I get the rules for this right? Is this indeed a possible situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastEditorUserId="276" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T10:34:07.050" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T10:34:07.050" Title="Is it possible for a 6-player game of BSG + Exodus to only ever have one Cylon?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|exodus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7153" CreationDate="2012-04-14T13:03:33.683" Score="4" ViewCount="1980" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone suggest a programme or website that will allow playing diplomacy with all players on one computer.  Ideally this should not involve logging in and out, or having a window open per player.  I would like to use it purely as a movement judge, so once all orders are submitted on paper, then they can be copied onto the screen, and the &quot;Go&quot; button clicked to show the results (ideally with nice arrows showing where units bounced, convoyed etc.).  I have found many programmes and websites that provide great interfaces for play-by-email or play-by-web for a single player, but nothing for helping with face-to-face games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T18:51:31.530" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:51:31.530" Title="Programme to help with face to face diplomacy" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7148" CreationDate="2012-04-14T15:01:43.427" Score="6" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLoyal%20Cathar%5d&quot;&gt;Loyal Cathar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - When Loyal Cathar dies, return it to the battlefield transformed under your control at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question reposted from user &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2739/zacula&quot;&gt;Zacula&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I believe that Cathar's ability is not a delayed ability that triggers at End of turn. The ability reads: &quot;When Loyal Cathar dies, return it to the battlefield transformed under your control at the beginning of the next end step.&quot; It is triggered upon Loyal Cathar's death! it doesn't say: &quot;If Loyal Cathar dies, at the beginning of the next end step return it... blah... blah... blah...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulings, a triggered ability begins with the words &quot;at&quot;, &quot;when&quot;, &quot;whenever&quot;. Loyal Cathar's aility triggers upon its death, so it is up to the controller of the two triggered abilities (Undying, and cathar's) to place them on the stack any way he/she wishes to. He will of course prefer the Undying to resolve first, hence the result will be the same as everybody else answered to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My question is: am I right regarding the Cathar's ability not being a delayed triggered ability that triggers at the End step?&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:16:41.527" Title="Is Loyal Cathar's ability a &quot;delayed triggered ability&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7147" CreationDate="2012-04-14T15:24:43.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are partially right. &lt;strong&gt;Loyal Cathar&lt;/strong&gt;'s ability is actually a triggered ability that creates a delayed triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&#xA;Loyal Cathar's ability can be parsed as follows [When][Trigger Condition], [effect]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Loyal Cathar dies],&lt;/strong&gt; - is the Trigger Condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[return it to the battlefield transformed under your control at the beginning of the next end step]&lt;/strong&gt; - is the effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of the triggered ability sets up a delayed triggered ability that triggers at the the beginning of the next end step (see example below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.7c A delayed triggered ability that refers to a particular object still affects it even if the object changes characteristics. However, if that object is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at the time the delayed triggered ability resolves, the ability won’t affect it. (Note that if that object left that zone and then returned, it’s a new object and thus won’t be affected. See rule 400.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; An ability that reads “Exile this creature at the beginning of the next end&#xA;step” will exile the permanent even if it’s no longer a creature during the next end step.&#xA;However, it won’t do anything if the permanent left the battlefield before then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6590/how-does-a-loyal-cathar-react-to-undying-evil&quot;&gt;original question&lt;/a&gt; that spawned your question still has the correct checkmarked answer. Loyal Cathar's ability will fail to find the card in the graveyard, because &lt;strong&gt;Undying Evil&lt;/strong&gt; already returned it to the battlefield. So, when the delayed triggered ability resolves at the beginning of the end of turn, it will fail to do anything. If Loyal Cathar dies again before the beginning of the end of turn, the original delayed triggered ability will still fail to do anything, because the Undying Evil returned Loyal Cathar is a new object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T15:24:43.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7145" CreationDate="2012-04-14T16:05:34.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The kind of software you are looking for exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/software/DipGM.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy Games Manager&lt;/a&gt; - Stewart Cross.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;keywords=Avalon%20Hill%27s%20Diplomacy&amp;amp;tag=mobygames&amp;amp;index=videogames&amp;amp;link_code=qs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy for Windows XP&lt;/a&gt; - With Local Area Network support, internet, e-mail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MSN - Gaming Zone&lt;/strong&gt; used to support Diplomacy, but something must have happened between Hasbro and Microsoft to change this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stewart Cross has an interesting article on the difficulty in creating the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/software/adjudicating.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy GM&lt;/a&gt;. If you are looking for reviews of the PC game, you might check &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamespot.com/diplomacy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GameSpot&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allgame.com/game.php?id=19278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AllGame&lt;/a&gt; (although it looks like this site is a data farming site like Answers.com). I would normally use GameFAQs.com, or MobyGames.com, but both don't seem to have much useful information on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-14T18:04:14.050" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T18:04:14.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7144" CreationDate="2012-04-14T17:51:04.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct it is possible to have only one Cylon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation can occur if one player is dealt two &lt;strong&gt;You Are A Cylon&lt;/strong&gt; or Sympathizer cards, and the remaining Loyalty card with that name is the last undrawn Loyalty card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the standard Execution rules for Exodus, if you were human, you would add a &lt;strong&gt;You Are Not a Cylon&lt;/strong&gt; card to the Loyalty deck when selecting a new character. This won't change the possibility of having only a single Cylon though, because the Loyalty deck will still have one extra card. If you were a Cylon, you just get moved to the Resurrection Ship, keeping both your Loyalty cards, which also doesn't change the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to this, is if you were playing with both Exodus, and Pegasus expansions. Step 2 is revised to hand off the unrevealed &lt;strong&gt;You Are a Cylon&lt;/strong&gt; card to another player. So you would have two Cylons in the game. This is covered on page 22 regarding &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/exodus/rules/bsg-exodus-rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Handing Off Excess Loyalty Cards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Execution&lt;/strong&gt; - The rules for execution are slightly revised for the Exodus&#xA;  expansion. Use the rules as they are described on page 7 of this rulebook, even when playing with the Pegasus expansion, with the following exception. During step 2, “Prove Loyalty,” a player with one or more “You Are a Cylon” Loyalty Cards reveals one and gives all his remaining facedown Loyalty Cards to a human player of his choice, as described on page 12 of the Pegasus rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T17:51:04.160" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7140" CreationDate="2012-04-14T21:52:22.097" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own a copy of the rule book, it's 75$. The briefing you linked to says the following about the &lt;strong&gt;Ivory X Special Rules&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ivory X Special Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may purchase an Ivory X Staff Team for +25 points. Deploy the Ivory X Staff Team when you would deploy Independent Teams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anti-aircraft Artillery Platoons and Towed Tank Destroyer Platoons that have a Command team within 6”/15cm of the Ivory X Staff team can use it as a &lt;strong&gt;Staff Team to fire Bombardments&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anti-aircraft Artillery Platoons and Towed Tank Destroyer Platoons &lt;strong&gt;that do not have a Command team within 6”/15cm of the Ivory X Staff Team cannot fire bombardments&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Bombardment controlled by Ivory X &lt;strong&gt;uses all of the American Artillery special rules on page 240 of the rulebook&lt;/strong&gt;, except for Time On Target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a copy of the rules, it is difficult to say if anything within the rules for American Artillery special rules contradicts what is in the linked briefing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily, you can gather from the rest of the briefing that the Ivory X bombardments can only be used to pin down enemy units. The historical accounts mention that Ivory X was able to pin down the enemy. This is also supported by the fact that all Ivory X bombardment rows of the chart show '-' for Rate of Fire, Anti-Tank, and Firepower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ivory X provided the Indianhead Division with plenty of firepower in the form of .50 cal and 40mm anti-aircraft guns. Their harassing fire helped keep the Germans from moving freely through the outskirts and hills of Brest, allowing the Indianheads to easily move in and outflank the enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Firing Ivory X bombardments   40”/100cm - - -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Firing Ivory X bombardments   48”/120cm - - -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Firing Ivory X bombardments   64”/160cm - - -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that still confuses me a little about the rules, is regarding Towed Tank Destroyer Platoons. The rules mention that linked Ivory X Tank Destroyers are the only ones eligible to fire a bombardment and only using the Ivory X special rules. Rereading the above &lt;strong&gt;Ivory X Special Rules&lt;/strong&gt;, would lead one to believe that you only have two possible answers to the question. My guess is that the answer is the former, but the use of the word &quot;can&quot; could mean that you have a choice of either pinning down enemies or firing bombardments as a &lt;strong&gt;Staff Team&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Use the 1 ROF, 2 Anti-Tank, 6 Firepower stats for &lt;strong&gt;Staff Team&lt;/strong&gt; when firing bombardments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Use the - ROF, - Anti-Tank, - Firepower stats for firing bombardments to pin down the enemy (cannot hurt them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staff team 16”/40cm 1 2 6 Automatic rifles, Moves as a Heavy Gun team&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M18 Hellcat GMC Light Tank 2 0 0 .50 cal AA MG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;M1 76mm gun 32”/80cm 2 12 3+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Towed Tank Destroyer Platoons that begin the game linked to Ivory X do not use the US Tank Destroyers special rules and only deploy the Tank Destroyer Section on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Towed Tank Destroyer Platoon can only fire a bombardment using the Ivory X special rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T07:19:48.303" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T07:19:48.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7147" CreationDate="2012-04-14T22:39:49.183" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I understand it:&#xA;2 abilities trigger simultaneously when &quot;Loyal Cathar dies&quot;, since they have the same trigger condition. Their controller chooses on how to place them on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he chooses to place Undying first and Cathar's ability above it, the latter will resolve first and it will set the Delayed triggered ability &quot;return it to the battlefield transformed under your control at the beginning of the next end step&quot;, then Undying resolves, it checks if the creature had no +1/+1 counters on it, and as a result it returns it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it. Then, at the End step, the delayed triggered ability set by the resolution of Cathar's ability triggers, but fizzles due to not finding the Cathar in the zone it was expecting it to be (Graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the active player chooses to place the abilities in reverse order though, Undying will resolve first, it will check what it checks, and will return the creature to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it. Then Cathar's ability will try to resolve, but it doesn't find Cathar in the zone it expects it to be (Graveyard), so it fizzles without creating the Delayed triggered ability. Hence nothing triggers at the End step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the second scenario Loyal Cathar's Delayed triggered ability won't even trigger, since the triggered ability that creates it fizzled. This is excactly what I was saying from the beginning. Of course, I was indeed partially right, since I did not think of the first scenario. In any case Undying happens, either way the controller chooses to stack the abilities, so why even bother thinking about all these??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are geeks, aren't we??? :P :P :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2739" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T22:39:49.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7145" CreationDate="2012-04-14T23:06:01.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The software I know of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://realpolitik.sourceforge.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Realpolitik&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that at games Dan Burgess has hosted in Chicago, they've used this program (eg see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.windycityweasels.org/game-reports/wcw-2011-season/298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;his comment here&lt;/a&gt;), but I believe not in lieu of ordinary analogue adjudication over a board. The general setup as I understand it is that a non-playing host loads the moves into Realpolitik and adjudicates, which is synced up to a computer screen in a different negotiation room(s), so that players in that room can see the current position of the board while negotiating. I've never actually see this in progress, if you want more information, I'd contact one of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://windycityweasels.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Windy City Weasels&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call me skeptical, but I'm not convinced of the advantage of using automatic adjudication (perhaps if I see it in action I'll become convinced, maybe cutting down on errors is one possibility, but not the one mentioned in comments). The orders still needed to be read, and the results assimilated by the players, so I don't see a major time saving (since assimilation usually occurs simultaneously with hand-held adjudication).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastActivityDate="2012-04-14T23:06:01.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8070" CreationDate="2012-04-15T00:08:01.850" Score="10" ViewCount="10756" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been building a Modern control deck based around the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5405/1910&quot;&gt;Gifts reanimator engine&lt;/a&gt;. The general gameplan is to slow your opponent using counters and removal until you can reanimate a big creature for massive advantage, hopefully negating a bunch of your opponent's cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on playtesting, my worst matchup by far is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/933&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;green-based (&quot;mono-brown&quot;) Tron&lt;/a&gt;. I can barely win about one match out of ten against the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to blue-based Tron decks (UR with Through the Breach and UW with Unburial Rites combo), green-based Tron has fewer critical spells and a higher density of threats, making it more resistant to counters and disruption. They also have a broader variety of angles of attack, thanks to the easier inclusion of cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214350&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Karn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt;. I've had games where I've &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=191592&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Needled&lt;/a&gt; Karn, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extracted&lt;/a&gt; all four Mindslavers and Urza's Towers, only to &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; lose to an Emrakul hardcast &lt;em&gt;the hard way&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck is practically all colorless once it gets past the first few turns, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190407&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Iona&lt;/a&gt; isn't nearly as strong as she is against the Gifts-based Tron deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which creatures (i.e. reanimation targets) are most advantageous against Tron decks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What general strategies can a blue-based control deck employ against green Tron decks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-decks/gifts-unburied-fixed-snapshot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this is my current decklist&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T12:25:33.137" Title="How can I beat green Tron with a control deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2012-04-15T15:40:24.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;General Strategies:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a terrible matchup indeed. Your deck wins on the late game (except for possible reanimation auto-wins with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190407&quot;&gt;Iona&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214352&quot;&gt;Elesh&lt;/a&gt;) and the inevitability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193452&quot;&gt;Emrakul&lt;/a&gt; makes that impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that invalidates one of the threats of the deck will just be wasting time until &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193452&quot;&gt;Emrakul&lt;/a&gt; comes down, so I would try to attack the core of the deck: the lands!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the two obvious land destruction lands I believe you are running the right one in &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220371&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197855&quot;&gt;Tectonic Edge&lt;/a&gt; is probably terrible, since the deck can actually function with only 3 lands.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129480&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt; can make a powerful combo with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220371&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt; and that would force the Tron to bring in anti-hate from the sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reanimation Targets:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only think of one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270451&quot;&gt;Terastodon&lt;/a&gt;, targeting his Tron pieces. If you can counter his threats and get that online on turn 5 he'll probably be in pretty bad shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1262" LastEditDate="2012-04-15T16:10:55.863" LastActivityDate="2012-04-15T16:10:55.863" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-16T04:04:43.783" Score="7" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;In riichi mahjong, a concealed &lt;em&gt;pinfu&lt;/em&gt; hand is worth 20-fu if it goes out on a tsumo.  However, a hand with no points that has been opened gets a 2-fu bonus for no reason other than being an open pinfu.  Even if the hand has another yaku to go out on (since yaku is only given for &lt;em&gt;pinfu&lt;/em&gt; if it remains concealed), the final score is calculated with a minimum of 30-fu (due to rounding) when going out on a tsumo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One effect of this is that it is impossible to make a 20-fu 1-han hand, since any hand that goes out with 20-fu would be guaranteed two yaku: one from &lt;em&gt;menzen tsumo&lt;/em&gt; (1-han) and one from &lt;em&gt;pinfu&lt;/em&gt; (1-han).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, I can't see any reason why open pinfu should be getting those two extra fu.  Is there any actual reason for it, or is it &quot;just one of those things&quot; that's lost to the history of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T05:08:53.250" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T21:51:19.423" Title="Why does an open pinfu get 2 extra fu added to the score?" Tags="|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7156" CreationDate="2012-04-16T04:17:50.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder is it related in any way by the fact that it is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osamuko.com/2009/03/19/some-random-thoughts-on-scoring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lowest possible score?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;THE SMALLEST POSSIBLE SCORE Many charts won’t have a value for 20 Fu, 1 Han. That’s because you just can’t make a hand that cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What happens if you make an open Tanyao using Shuntsu only, a Ryanmen wait, and win by Ron? Should be worth 20 Fu, 1 Han right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Actually, such a hand is called “kui-pinfu” or open pinfu, and will be scored as 30 Fu, 1 Han. Since a kui-pinfu is the only way to get 20 Fu, 1 Han, we can thus say the lowest possible score for a hand is 1000 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unrelated to kui-pinfu is the 30 Fu, 1 Han hand won by Tsumo. Such a hand is called “gomi”, because of the payments (500, 300 = 5, 3 = go, mi), and because “gomi” means “trash”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.osamuko.com/2009/03/19/some-random-thoughts-on-scoring/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has this to say, since a no-points hand must be self drawn, add 1-han yaku of self pick to the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason why there are no scores in the 1 han/20 fu cell is that such a hand is impossible. The only 20-fu hands are the no-points hand (pinfu, 平和) where the winning tile is self-drawn.However, since a no-points hand must be closed, making the win via a self-drawn tile automatically adds 1-han yaku of self pick to the hand. Therefore, a 20-fu, 1-han hand cannot possibly exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T04:36:53.353" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T04:36:53.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2012-04-16T04:36:45.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a Campaign mode on the board game geek website &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/27501/arkham-horror-campaign-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/27501/arkham-horror-campaign-rules&lt;/a&gt; but as I read them I am trying to think of a way to set it so that the board don't get cleared between every round, to were the gates and the monsters stay on the board or something but when me and my friends tried it the second set you felt already doomed since we ended up starting with like 5 or 6 gates already open to where 1 or 2 would wake the ancient one right off the start not fun &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2742" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T04:36:45.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7161" CreationDate="2012-04-16T04:52:55.857" Score="16" ViewCount="3863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played enough Settlers that I think I could do well in a tournament. However, a cursory glance at upcoming tournaments suggests that most Settlers tournaments use a Swiss scoring system that distorts the incentives of the game significantly. To take one specific example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbkex/setpge.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbkex/setpge.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this format, it is theoretically possible in three rounds to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A wins 1 game 10-6-6-6 for 5+4=9 tournament points, and 2 second place finishes for 3 each, or 15 total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B wins 2 games 10-9-7-7 for 5+1=6 tournament points each, and last place in the other game for 1 point, or 13 total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A gets more points than B because of one strong victory and 2 second place finishes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have always played Settlers to win, not to avoid coming in last place. Playing with this format, I would emphasize avoiding last place over winning. I might also attempt to cooperatively engineer a certain number of victory points per player on the third round if I had 1 win and 1 second place finish coming into the game and some of the other players were in similar situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would personally rather play a tournament where the emphasis is on winning as opposed to avoiding last place finishes and possibly brokering third game deals. Do such tournament formats exist? If so, what is the name of the tournament format(s) that best emphasize(s) winning (as opposed to avoiding last place)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T09:08:14.763" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T04:42:05.117" Title="Which tournament format best emphasizes winning (as opposed to avoiding last place)?" Tags="|catan|tournament|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7195" CreationDate="2012-04-16T08:26:29.827" Score="9" ViewCount="2884" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the paper rules here as a reference, but I grew up playing Rummikub with the rule that, if you replaced a joker on the table you must immediately replay the joker in a run or set with at least 2 tiles from your hand. This rule could make the endgame particularly interesting. We also played that the joker froze whatever group of tiles it was in--they couldn't be manipulated without replacing the joker. However, I just looked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummikub.com/Themes/rummikub/info/Rummikub_Static_Pages/Rules.aspx&quot;&gt;rules online&lt;/a&gt; to settle a dispute about making the initial meld, and noticed that both of these special joker rules are missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that way back when they were official, not house rules; were they? If so, when (and for bonus points, why) were they changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T09:11:54.477" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T02:03:51.157" Title="Do you have to play a (replaced) joker immediately with 2 tiles from your hand?" Tags="|history|rummikub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2012-04-16T15:06:28.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty universal tournament problem.  I've seen the same situations in Warhammer 40K tournaments as well.  Basically the problem occurs when you have less than the mathematically required number of rounds for the amount of players, and reward players according to degree of victory.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 1-on-1 winner take all tournament you need X rounds where 2^x = number of players.  With games that have more than 2 competing players, you'll need even more rounds to determine the true winner. With games that can take 2-3 hours to play, it is not feasible to set aside the 15+ hours required to handle just a 64 man tournament.  Most tournaments can only feasibly support 3 or 4 rounds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theoretical goal of a tournament is to have only one player at the end who won all of their games; the &quot;best&quot; player.  In normal tournament situations you won't be able to find this theoretical best player for more than 8 to 16 people.  So most tournaments try a few different compromises to make a tournament work in these constraints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swiss format is the most common form.  In these types of situations you apply a score to the results of a game.  At the end of the day, the player with the higher score wins.  There are drawbacks to this approach. One, when you reward degree of victory, you reward players that play easier opponents, and penalize players that have close games.  So even if you won all your games you could still lose the tournament because you weren't brutal enough in your victories.  I've even seen people lose tournaments to people they beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 40K tournament community we call this the &quot;clubbing baby seals&quot; effect. It can sometimes allow a mediocre player who has been lucky to be paired with far weaker opponents to outscore a better player who was unlucky to be paired with his peers and only manages marginal victories. &lt;a href=&quot;http://blameitonthedice.blogspot.com/2010/09/when-battle-points-attack-err-fail.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can read this blog post I made illustrating the effect in better detail.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably want to know some alternatives to get a better result out of your tournaments. Here are some solutions that the 40K community has tried:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limit the number of players to the number of rounds you can hold. This means that you will only have 1 undefeated player at the end of the tournament. Only count wins and losses and don't bother with marginal victory scoring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow players with equal records to share the victory. If at the end of the tournament you have 3 3-0 players, they all share an equal prize.  This can be a bit unsatisfying because you don't have 1 winner, but you don't have anyone lose out due to arbitrary scoring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss-system_tournament#Accelerated_pairings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Accelerated&lt;/a&gt; or Opposite Seed pairing. These approach use seeding to vary opponents to try to overcome the inherit disadvantages of the Swiss Format. They can theoretically reduce the amount of rounds you need to get a clear winner. Accelerated can be hard to pull of if you don't have preexisting player rankings. Opposite Seed pairing is a slight alteration where you just pair high degree of victory winners against low degree of victory players for the first few rounds. The idea here is to test for the seal clubbing effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2730" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T16:04:38.900" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T16:04:38.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2012-04-16T19:23:58.180" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tournament format that most emphasizes winning is single-elimination.&lt;/strong&gt; I mean, literally: if you don't win, you're out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with single-elimination is that it the order of elimination doesn't necessary tell you something about a player's overall achievement. Assuming the tournament winner is legitimately the &quot;best&quot; player, we really can't say who is &quot;second best&quot; based on tournament standing alone. If the winner's first-round opponent was actually the most difficult match, maybe he or she is really the &quot;second best&quot; player, despite getting out immediately. So you'll know who's first but everyone else's place in the standings is kind of a crapshoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single-elimination format is also rather frustrating for high-variance games (I would say Settlers is one), and being knocked out early can be very dissatisfying for tournament participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swiss-system_tournament&quot;&gt;Swiss systems&lt;/a&gt; do emphasize winning, in the sense that they're literally counting wins as the main scoring system. One pitfall in Straight-Swiss is that it's possible for a player to functionally win the tournament before getting to the last game -- this is similar to what happens when one player scores 3-0 in a &quot;best of five&quot; match. A popular way to avert this is a &quot;Top N,&quot; where top-scoring players from the Swiss rounds come together for a single-elimination bracket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top N has the benefit of making sure the top players are actually pitted against each other, and the single-elimination part of the format does promote a heated final where everyone is playing to win. However, this actually &lt;em&gt;encourages&lt;/em&gt; what you've called &quot;brokering third game deals&quot; in the last rounds of the Swiss -- if I can get into the Top 16 with a third-place finish in my last Swiss game, for instance, there is no reason to play for the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As best as I can tell, &lt;strong&gt;the Swiss system will always produce &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; irrelevant matches and predetermined outcomes&lt;/strong&gt;. The best you can do is to tweak where those occur in the tournament structure. Top N is a compromise that keeps those features out of the finals, at the cost of filling the final round before finals with a series of tricky forfeits and draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my opinion that it's better to accept &quot;brokered&quot; draws (with a prohibition on bribery and collusion to keep the game fair) than to try to force people to play irrelevant games. What you can do to discourage intentional draws and forfeits, however, is to associate an incentive with your overall ranking going into the Top N. In current Magic: the Gathering tournament rules, for example, Top 8 games give the higher-ranked player the ability to choose his or her position in the turn order (instead of deciding randomly, as they do in the preceding Swiss rounds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think the 5-3-2-1 structure you've cited is, in general, a good example of a Swiss-style format that emphasizes winning over second-place finishes and promotes a reasonable level of competition in the final Swiss round before Top N.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For starters, first is disproportionately more valuable than the other results: a first-place finish and a last-place finish are worth as much as two second-place finishes; and finishing first, second, and third is worth more than finishing second three games in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also the role of wins in tie-breakers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Top overall score [&lt;em&gt;of three rounds of Swiss&lt;/em&gt;] (15 being max)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Most 1st place wins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Top winning margin (Ex: a game ends 10-7-7-6, thus the winner has a&#xA;  +3 margin; All margins are summed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Win in game 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5) Win in game 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6) Win in game 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7) Highest dice roll -- 2D6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the margin of victory is used only as a tiebreaker, as an attempt to factor in the &lt;em&gt;decisiveness&lt;/em&gt; of wins if players are tied for &lt;em&gt;quantity&lt;/em&gt; of wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, this bit is important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Playoff rounds will be seated by rank (see below) but the game format will be the same&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tournament Playoff Round:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the top 16 players are set, seating will be done according to the following chart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Table 1 - #1,5,9,13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Table 2 - #2,6,10,14&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Table 3 - #3,7,11,15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Table 4 - #4,8,12,16&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there is some incentive to finishing the Swiss rounds with the highest rank possible: you can get a leg up in the turn order (I'm assuming the tournament organizers consider this an advantage in Settlers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, because &lt;strong&gt;I don't consider going first to be always preferable in Settlers&lt;/strong&gt;, I'd do something like this instead: &quot;After the board is laid out, players at the final tables get to choose their seats in rank order.&quot; A little bit of extra privilege (and strategic depth) for placing first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-16T20:25:48.693" LastActivityDate="2012-04-16T20:25:48.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7167" CreationDate="2012-04-16T22:14:05.817" Score="13" ViewCount="13436" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in learning chess.  I am already familiar with the rules of the game, but I am very weak when it comes to tactics and strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am afraid that if I just register at chess.com and start playing games, my ability to improve to my chess score will be limited by the fact that I won't understand the reasons for my losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I don't feel like there is anything worth doing well that you can completely learn from reading a book.  I'm also just not sure how to find the book that is right for me.  Most books seem to either be for beginners that don't know what the pieces do, or for rather advanced players whose techniques just don't apply to me yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I don't own a Windows machine, so running Chessmaster or Fritz would be difficult, though not out of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T23:08:37.323" Title="What is the best way to learn chess strategy and tactics?" Tags="|chess|teaching|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-24T21:58:31.653" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7058" CreationDate="2012-04-17T01:10:26.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After diggin a lot on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/134775/question-about-battle-outcome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BBG forums&lt;/a&gt; I found out something that looks like the answers. According to the game manual, there is no clarification about this. So the only thing to come up with this, is that the number of troops that fell of the tower, are the number of troops you return to your province (taking into account loses and things like that). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you can gain more troops that the one you thrown into the tower. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my example, you receive 3 troops. or In the thread example, you use 1 troop, and receive 4 from the tower. So all troops are taking into account, no matter how much did you put on the tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T01:10:26.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2012-04-17T06:51:05.530" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started working on my chess, I improved a lot just by playing at least one game a day with more experienced tournament players who would point out reasons why I lost afterwards.  It was definitely more efficient than just reading chess books, which I did on the side.  If there is a chess club nearby, you should definitely check it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guessing from your focus on online chess sites, books, and chess softwares that playing over the board with a human opponent is not an option.  On chess.com, you can ask if your opponent would want to discuss the game afterwards.  Even if that does not work out, just by playing alone you are already building up your collection of chess patterns.  In my case, I learned the dangers of the Nc7 fork, vulnerability of the f7-pawn, the Q+N smothered mate combination, among others just by having them inflicted on me.  After you have fallen victim, say, of the Nc7 fork several times, it will be so much harder for your next opponent to pull the same tactical trick on you.  You may even be the one to inflict the Nc7 fork in your next game.  There is no substitute for practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for books, you may want to try books with lots of tactical puzzles.  For one thing, you will be actively solving problems rather than passively absorbing information.  And for another, the time you spent working on tactics will pay immediate dividends at the board.  To get started, you may want to look at Heisman's annotated &lt;a href=&quot;http://danheisman.home.comcast.net/~danheisman/Events_Books/General_Book_Guide.htm#Tactics&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt; of chess books.  The link jumps straight to the section on tactics, but you should definitely check out the rest of the page as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2518" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T06:51:05.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7058" CreationDate="2012-04-17T10:59:21.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After looking over the rulebook again, I see a potential confusion arising from the use of the words &quot;participating armies&quot;, but I think it's resolvable.  In &quot;General Rules for the Battle Tower&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All battles are fought with the aid of the battle tower. A player&#xA;  takes all participating armies (colored cubes of the attacker and&#xA;  defender) and throws them into the tower together with all cubes lying&#xA;  in the tower tray at the start of the battle. In the process, some of&#xA;  these cubes will remain in the tower, and some that were already&#xA;  inside the tower will fall out into the tray, thus producing a chance result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a little further on in &quot;Battle Results and Consequences&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To determine the outcome of the battle, players count up the number of&#xA;  attacking and defending armies that come out into the tower tray. The&#xA;  side with the most armies in the tray wins. Armies not participating&#xA;  in the battle are disregarded and remain lying in the tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's clear from these paragraphs, taken in combination, that other appropriately coloured cubes, apart&#xA;from the ones thrown in, can become part of the &quot;participating armies&quot; and contribute to the outcome of the battle; a &quot;chance result&quot; is the intended outcome.  &quot;Armies not participating in the battle&quot; doesn't mean &quot;cubes that weren't thrown into the tower just now&quot;, it just means &quot;cubes of the wrong colours&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the green cubes, the rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are no revolt markers in the defender's province, all farmer&#xA;  armies in the tower tray count for the defender. (After a battle that&#xA;  includes farmers, all green cubes in the tray are returned to the&#xA;  farmer supply. If farmers are not involved in the battle, the green&#xA;  cubes remain in the tray.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if 6 reds and 3 yellows fall out then red is probably going to win the battle, unless a lot of defending green cubes fell out too!  All the yellow and green cubes are returned to their respective supplies, and the same number of red armies also go to their supply.  Any remaining (victorious!) red cubes will be placed in the contested province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T10:59:21.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7170" CreationDate="2012-04-17T14:36:15.520" Score="7" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=111058&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mystical Teachings&lt;/a&gt; to grab &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvI66.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thunderous Wrath&lt;/a&gt; out of my library during my upkeep and put it in my hand.  Can I then cast Thunderous Wrath for its Miracle cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T01:04:13.393" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T01:04:13.393" Title="If I search for a Miracle and put it in my hand, can I cast it for its Miracle cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7169" CreationDate="2012-04-17T14:40:23.583" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; The card changes zones but is never &lt;em&gt;drawn&lt;/em&gt; by you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;120.5. If an effect moves cards from a player’s library to that player’s hand without using the word&#xA;  “draw,” the player has not drawn those cards. This makes a difference for abilities that trigger on&#xA;  drawing cards and effects that replace card draws, as well as if the player’s library is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you can't cast the cards you tutor directly into your hand by paying their miracle cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does, however, mean that any cards you tutor up with Mystical Teachings won't count towards your &quot;first card drawn this turn&quot; -- so you could use Teachings on your upkeep and still cast a miracle card you drew naturally, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cast miracle cards with tutors, use ones that put cards on top of your library, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194976&quot;&gt;Mystical Tutor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205961&quot;&gt;Liliana Vess&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T14:40:23.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2012-04-17T16:12:35.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also am very bad at chess, but one thing that has helped me improve somewhat in both chess and Go is reviewing my own games.  After I finish, I go back over it and see, with the benefit of hindsight, what I could have done better.  This works even better if you have someone more experienced (perhaps the opponent from that game) to reveiw it with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I agree that books are of limited help.  But readin and then playing a game and actively trying to apply what you read about does seem to help me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I am very much a beginner myself, so take everything with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T16:12:35.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2012-04-17T19:40:45.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone who has played in Settlers tournaments hopefully I can shed some light on how the tournaments are run but can not comment on Swiss vs other tournament system. The first round of a sanctioned Settlers tournament is Swiss as you described with Wins ranking first, then total points, then a percentage of strength of win used to break any ties. After the 3 games are played, all players are then ranked and the top 16 go on to a single elimination semi-final/final setup. At PAXEast, they run two qualifying rounds and you can play in both of them to try to generate the highest possible score over the weekend. i.e. If I get zero wins and 27 points which is not likely to get me in the finals I can play on Saturday and get 2 wins which will most likely guarantee a spot on Sunday. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ranking in the top 16 does not determine seating position in the semi-finals. Players are seated to a board based on ranking but then have to roll for position. Even at a very large event like PAXEast, Mayfair has a REALLY hard time finding enough people to play. Usually a single win will get you in the semi-finals. But once you are in the semis, everything game from there to world championships is win or die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sanctioned qualifiers this year could send you to the World Catan Championships so your tournament host should be very strict and check if a player is eligible for your specific qualifier. PAXEast was a sanctioned qualifier which meant Canadians were not eligible to play (They have their own qualifiers north of the border). Some players had dual citizenship US/Canada and thought it was ok they could play in the qualifier throwing all the numbers off. One had reached the semi-finals only to be told they had to leave because they shouldn't have played in the first place. Many of us found this very annoying because people who finished in top places may not have done so if the mix was correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I will say is that tournaments are very fun and I would highly encourage anyone who plays Settlers to give it a try. You will meet great people and have a great time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T19:40:45.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7174" CreationDate="2012-04-17T19:56:55.567" Score="26" ViewCount="24864" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A: Wants to expand to resource-rich area of board. They build two roads and plan to build a settlement and continue their road to the resource-rich area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B: Also wants same location as player A for their next settlement. They build two roads, ending at same hex intersection as player A.  Player B builds their settlement first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A: Still wants resources further away, so places another road on the &lt;strong&gt;other&lt;/strong&gt; side of player B's settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has a road going into the hex intersection, and argues that they can build a connecting road going out of the intersection, regardless of whether another player has a settlement there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this really a legal move?  If not, where in the rules does it specify that this it is not allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2744" LastEditorUserId="2744" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T16:56:14.190" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T22:49:55.087" Title="Can you build a road on the other side of another player's settlement?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7173" CreationDate="2012-04-17T20:10:03.117" Score="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/faq/4624-roads-may-roads-i-build-go-through-other-players-settlements-and-cities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the roads I build “go through” other players’ settlements&#xA;  and cities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer:&lt;/em&gt; No. If you build a new road, it must always connect to one of&#xA;  your own roads, settlements, or cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/faq/4608-longest-road-how-can-i-interrupt-opponents-longest-road&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;inverse situation&lt;/a&gt; is also interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Longest Road - How can I interrupt the Longest Road of a game partner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Answer:&lt;/em&gt; By building a settlement on an intersection within the Longest&#xA;  Road. Of course, you have to observe all building rules when doing&#xA;  this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="27861" LastEditDate="2019-07-28T22:49:55.087" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T22:49:55.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7173" CreationDate="2012-04-17T20:15:45.633" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/gamerules.html&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 4, section 3a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A new road must always connect to 1 of your existing roads, settlements, or cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent builds a settlement at the end of your road, you are no longer connecting your road to your existing road, you are connecting it to an &lt;em&gt;opponent’s&lt;/em&gt; settlement, which is not legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T20:15:45.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7178" CreationDate="2012-04-17T20:54:43.057" Score="6" ViewCount="3000" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I flashback an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262661&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; in order to copy a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=245184&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; twice.  Then, I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233722&quot;&gt;Reverberate&lt;/a&gt; from my hand targeting the Increasing Vengeance which in turn will also copy the Shock.  Will the new copy of Increasing Vengeance make one copy of the Shock I target or two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T20:41:41.673" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T20:41:41.673" Title="Do copied spells use the original's casting location?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7176" CreationDate="2012-04-17T21:09:23.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You get one copy of the &lt;strike&gt;shark&lt;/strike&gt; Shock&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; from the Increasing Vengeance.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasoning, by Comprehensive Rules, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; &lt;strong&gt;a copy of a spell isn't cast&lt;/strong&gt; and a copy of an activated ability isn't activated. A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, targets, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs. (See rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells.&quot;) Choices that are normally made on resolution are not copied. If an effect of the copy refers to objects used to pay its costs, it uses the objects used to pay the costs of the original spell or ability. A copy of a spell is owned by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell or ability is controlled by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell is itself a spell, even though it has no spell card associated with it. A copy of an ability is itself an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the copy of the Increasing Vengeance wasn't cast, when the copy of Increasing Vengeance resolves, it will fail to see it was &lt;em&gt;cast from the graveyard&lt;/em&gt; since it wasn't actually &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt;, it's a copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;Oops. Left original word struck out for entertainment value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-04-17T23:18:04.033" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T23:18:04.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7176" CreationDate="2012-04-17T21:10:26.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new copy of Increasing Vengeance will only make one copy of the Shock - it was never cast, much less cast from your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't particularly simple - most of the time, when a spell or ability is copied, most of its characteristics are copied along with it (costs paid, choices made, etc.) - however, in this instance, since the evaluation of whether or not an extra copy is provided on resolution of Increasing Vengeance, that information is not actually copied. If it was phrased different it might actually work - something like &quot;if the flashback cost was paid, copy twice.&quot; But phrased the way it is, you get only a single copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;706.10.&lt;/strong&gt; To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; &lt;strong&gt;a copy of a spell isn't cast&lt;/strong&gt; and a copy of an activated ability isn't activated. A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, targets, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs. (See rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells.&quot;) Choices that are normally made on resolution are not copied. If an effect of the copy refers to objects used to pay its costs, it uses the objects used to pay the costs of the original spell or ability. A copy of a spell is owned by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell or ability is controlled by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell is itself a spell, even though it has no spell card associated with it. A copy of an ability is itself an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T21:10:26.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7176" CreationDate="2012-04-17T21:11:24.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer can be divined from the second ruling on Gatherer for Reverberate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Reverberate resolves, it creates a copy of a spell. You control&#xA;  the copy. That copy is created on the stack, so it's not &quot;cast.&quot;&#xA;  Abilities that trigger when a player casts a spell won't trigger. The&#xA;  copy will then resolve like a normal spell, after players get a chance&#xA;  to cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Reverberated Increasing Vengeance hasn't been &quot;cast&quot;, it certainly hasn't been &quot;cast from the graveyard&quot;... and thus won't copy Shock twice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-17T21:11:24.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7181" CreationDate="2012-04-18T02:32:41.847" Score="9" ViewCount="1475" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Pygmies are killed the player can roll the die and get 0-3 new pygmies for his next turn. Does he get to do this if a sorcerer uses his special ability to take control of a lone pygmy?&#xA;My guess would be yes due to the way elves interact w/ sorcerers, but I couldn't find anything conclusive in the base set rules, and there is only a summery insert w/ the expansion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-14T22:59:48.733" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T13:06:02.900" Title="Do I roll for reinforcements when I lose a Pygmy due to a Sorcerer taking control of it?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7180" CreationDate="2012-04-18T02:58:17.150" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can roll for reinforcements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rules for the expansion read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time you lose a Pygmy token, roll a reinforcement die ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sorcerer definitely causes you to lose a Pygmy token, it is not required to be killed.  Therefore you get to roll the reinforcement die to replace them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T02:58:17.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7180" CreationDate="2012-04-18T03:32:04.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The Sorcerer's substitution ability causes the Pygmy to lose a token. The Sorcerer's ability specifically states that the substitution causes a &lt;strong&gt;Loss&lt;/strong&gt; (the example in the rule book uses Elves). The Pygmies ability allows them to roll the reinforcement die and get 0-3 Pygmies that are redeployed at the end of the current players turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base game &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sorcerers&lt;/strong&gt; - Once per turn per opponent, your Sorcerers can conquer a Region by substituting one of&#xA;  your opponent's Active tokens with one of your own taken from the storage tray. If there are no more tokens in the storage tray, then you cannot conquer a new Region in this way. The token your Sorcerers replaces must be the only race token in its Region (A single Troll token with its Troll's Lair is considered alone for this purpose; likewise for a Race token in a Fortress or on a Mountain, these markers provide no protection to a lone Race token) and that Region must be adjacent to one of your Sorcerers'. Place the substituted opponent's Race token back into the storage tray. &lt;strong&gt;If an Elf is converted by a Sorcerer, the Elf does lose his token.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_bna_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Expansion rule book&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pygmies&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Each time you lose a Pygmy token, roll a reinforcement die&lt;/strong&gt; and receive as many new Pygmies from the storage tray as you rolled pips on the die (up to the number of Pygmies left). Deploy them on the board at the end of the current player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T04:59:10.830" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T04:59:10.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7193" CreationDate="2012-04-18T06:27:06.413" Score="47" ViewCount="5673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some would call it cheating. The perpetrators sometimes call it &lt;strong&gt;creative play&lt;/strong&gt;. These players are the kind of people who think it is ok to peek at the bottom card while shuffling a poker deck to give themselves an edge, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dashingforums.com/showthread.php?tid=2400&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;glance at the cards in player's hands&lt;/a&gt; seated next to them when that player is casually holding their cards and not secreting them close to their face. They forget they have evidence that Col. Mustard isn't the killer and claim that they, &quot;cannot disprove you,&quot; leading to your unfortunate accusation. They tell you &lt;strong&gt;go fish&lt;/strong&gt;, even when they are holding the card you are looking for. They &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/2148144#2148144&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rearrange ship parts&lt;/a&gt; on their spaceship boards after grabbing a new part, or put parts back into the supply from their save space after finding out that they don't fit. Many of the people who engage in this sort of behavior don't believe it is wrong, they sort of see it as a game within the game, to see how much of an edge they can acquire without getting caught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the old west, these players could be shot. Unfortunately, we live in a more civilized time, where that sort of thing is frowned upon, no matter how much better it would make the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got to thinking about this question after asking this one regarding &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7087/do-you-have-to-reveal-your-hand-when-using-treasure-map-and-not-trashing-a-tm-fr&quot;&gt;Treasure Map&lt;/a&gt;. At first, I thought that the card was badly designed. Since the game's golden rule for following card rules is, &quot;Do everything that you can,&quot; this card would require a 3rd party to verify that you don't have a Treasure Map in hand. My reasoning was flawed, because I was thinking about the card in terms of a tournament setting where monetary gain might influence players to cheat. Then it got me thinking about the large set of games with closed information. In most of those games, the designers don't expect players to have a third party verify that players aren't &quot;playing creatively,&quot; and designers don't expect players to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an open information game, it is much more difficult to cheat. There is no information that needs to remain hidden, so cheaters can't just look at your facedown hand. Rearranging pieces that are open information is fraught with much more peril, because the cheater might be playing against someone with a good memory, &quot;Wait, my King wasn't in check?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good ways to influence a cheater to not &quot;play creatively&quot; in your group? Please understand, I don't want answers like, &quot;Talk to them, and tell them that you think cheating is wrong.&quot; Creative players don't see it the way you do, and no amount of reasoning will change their mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points for suggestions that do this subtlety. (i.e. &quot;Oh, the video camera? We always record all our games. It makes it much easier to post session reports on the Geek that way.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: It might be time for some clarification. The comments, and the only answer so far seem to indicate that the only answer is to just not play with cheaters. I am uncertain how one could provide a good answer for, &quot;how do I play with cheaters?&quot; when one has no experience in playing with them, or has made no attempt to play with them. As an example for how it is possible to play with cheaters, I will give an example from my own past. My family is very good at Clue, and we take extensive notes. everyone records not only the cards that they have received from other players, they also indicate what player makes a supposition, which players cannot disprove a supposition, and which player did. After a couple of games were declared invalid because a player with a disproportionate amount of &quot;mistakes&quot; said that they couldn't disprove a supposition, and multiple players notes showed that they clearly could have, we instituted the following rule. Before saying, &quot;I can/cannot disprove you,&quot; a player was required to pick up their cards (previously, people just used their notes marked with the cards they owned) and repeat, &quot;MURDERER, with the WEAPON, in the ROOM,&quot; followed by their answer. Galaxy Trucker has players play with one hand behind their back, and although it doesn't prevent cheating, it makes it harder to cheat. Poker has you burn cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am looking for is people who have experience playing with cheaters, and what steps they took to help reduce the cheating. It can be general advice, or specific to a game. My hope is that someone has had some experience in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2018-01-06T00:25:22.570" Title="How can I play games with closed information with players who cheat?" Tags="|etiquette|cheating|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7021" CreationDate="2012-04-18T08:49:05.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both&lt;/strong&gt; spaces in the chasm have line of sight dots. The ones on the bridge space are next to the wooden poles that support the bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2754" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T23:02:29.953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T23:02:29.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-04-18T11:35:40.480" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you don't want answers that say, &quot;Talk to them, and tell them that you think cheating is wrong&quot;, but, honestly, it's players distaste for direct confrontation that allows cheating to happen. Cheaters prosper only because we let them get away with it.  If you see it happening and you can prove it, don't tolerate it.  No one wants a cheater in their group. If they don't listen to reason, it's best to remove the troublemaker.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably many of passive aggressive ways to try and influence a cheater in your gaming group, but directly telling them that their behavior is unacceptable is going to be your best strait forward solution.  Don't tell them something like cheating is wrong. Don't frame the conversation about the definition of what cheating is.  Frame it around the fact that no one else has any fun when the offender acts like he does.  Tell them that their behavior is unacceptable to the group, defeats the purpose of the game, and that if they don't alter their behavior they will not be welcome in your group.  It's best to do this as a united group.  A little social shaming goes along way to fix bad habits, and you don't want it to look like it's just you being whiny.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is assuming we are talking about a true dyed in the wool cheater.  Sometimes people make honest mistakes, and I've seen sore losers make a big deal out of this kind of &quot;cheating&quot;.  If you are going to confront someone, don't come on too strong for a first time offence.  Let the punishment fit the crime.  Saying your are pretty strict about following the rules is probably enough to deal with honest mistakes situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catching someone in an elaborate sting operation is probably going to be counter productive.  And no one want's to play games where they feel like they are guilty until proven innocent when it comes to fair play.  Part of good sportsmanship is trusting your opponent to play fair and sometimes letting minor rules issues slip by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T11:35:40.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-04-18T15:35:22.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you value strategic decision-making and technically-precise play? If so, my advice is that it's not worth it to play with cheaters, because their &quot;game within the game&quot; gets in the way of actually experiencing the game. It's possible to play serious and deep games against cheaters within a tournament structure, but that involves tights rules for managing game state (usually with some component of making hidden state auditable), third-party oversight, and huge penalties for getting caught. And, even then, sometimes they &lt;a href=&quot;http://mixedknuts.wordpress.com/2011/12/12/unlocking-the-cheats-of-scg-player-of-the-year-alex-bertoncini/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;delegitimize the whole tournament&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with cheating in friendly play (this was with RPGs, though) is that a game where some players cheat and others don't but cheaters aren't punished with anything more than momentary ridicule eventually turns into a glorified bullshit session -- everyone's playing fast and loose with the rules, just in difference ways: the cheaters are cheating, and everyone else is just goofing around or fudging the game rules to impose ad-hoc penalties on the cheater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest option if you want to play with cheaters and value a real game is to &lt;strong&gt;play online&lt;/strong&gt;, using dedicated software. A pen-and-paper Clue game might require the honor system, but an online implementation can force correct game actions on cheaty players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T20:29:32.217" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T20:29:32.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7188" CreationDate="2012-04-18T17:18:28.063" Score="7" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 7 wonders, there is a yellow card whose icons say &quot;get a VP for each yellow card I have played&quot;.   If I already have 3 yellow cards in play, is my total VP from yellow cards 3 or 4? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-04-18T22:47:09.187" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T01:05:15.927" Title="In 7 Wonders, does getting a VP for all yellow cards include the card mentioning it?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7187" CreationDate="2012-04-18T17:38:18.053" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the last page of the rules, it clarifies that the card does count itself, so you would get 4 VPs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-04-19T01:05:15.927" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T01:05:15.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-04-18T19:07:35.483" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Incorporate the cheating into the game.  I don't know how well this ports to all games, but when I was in the Army, we use to play with a house rule in Spades that if you got caught reneging, the hand was immediately over, the reneging team lost their bid and the other team automatically made theirs. Before that, there was constant fighting between the two groups, of which I was in the rule following group.  As an added benefit, paying such close attention to the cards made me a much better player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2012-04-18T19:07:35.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7194" CreationDate="2012-04-19T03:21:34.590" Score="2" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Defenders of the Realm rulebook, the &lt;em&gt;Suffering Wounds&lt;/em&gt; section (p. 7) says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a hero ends a turn in a location with enemy minions, the he suffers a wound for each minion at that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On first reading, I thought that meant that once a hero's actions were spent, they would suffer a wound for each minion present on their location. But, a player's turn is divided up into three segments (p. 5): Daytime(hero actions), Evening(draw cards), and Night(darkness spreads) and new minions are placed during Night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a hero suffer wounds if minions were placed on their location during the Night as darkness spreads? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="406" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T06:15:51.653" Title="Does a hero suffer wounds from new minions as Darkness Spreads?" Tags="|defenders-of-the-realm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2012-04-19T03:26:52.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a comment (and from my personal experience with &quot;Arkham Horror&quot;...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fishing tackle boxes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T03:26:52.120" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-04-19T03:26:52.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-04-19T03:36:48.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they merely like lying, and not cheating, then a card game called &quot;bullshit&quot; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheat_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cheat&lt;/a&gt; where you put the cards face down, and state what cards you're putting down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone suspects the person's lying, they can claim that the person's lying. They might do this because one player has said they're discarding &quot;three tens&quot; when they themselves have two tens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the person was lying, then they have some sort of penalty, whereas if they weren't lying, the person suspecting that there was lying has some sort of penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="873" LastEditorUserId="873" LastEditDate="2012-04-19T04:10:02.250" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T04:10:02.250" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-04-19T03:58:00.253" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I see it, you have three options that aren't &quot;stop playing with them&quot;. In all situations, you're going to have to accept that cheating might happen in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add incentives not to cheat (such as the answer from Kevin about automatically losing the game, or a game appropriate penalty, such as stealing a card from the offending player) &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Change the rules to incorporate enforcement (player A asks player B if they have card X, player C confirms B's answer). Of course, this is likely to change &#xA;the balance of the game (player C then has extra information about B's hand), but done carefully you could end up with a great game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Accept that cheating is part of the game. This works very well for some games, but terribly for others. For example, poker where you can cheat in any way, but are disqualified from the round if detected can be good fun (but I wouldn't recommend playing for money).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned detecting cheating after the fact, by recording the game in some way (eg pen and paper or video camera). Sadly, I don't think recording a game will solve your problem - a player who believes it's ok to cheat is likely to say &quot;so what?&quot; when presented with &quot;proof&quot; that they cheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, some games just don't work well with cheating - for example, I can't imagine Cluedo working with cheating players and no modifications. Seriously, in this situation, just don't play with the cheaters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, with a group of people who engaged in &quot;creative play&quot;, we tried applying the rules to the card game Cheat to other card games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loosely, this means all cards are played face down, and the player declares what the card is. Others can challenge the declaration by declaring &quot;Cheat&quot; and  flipping the cards - if the cards are not as advertised, the player who played them is penalised. If the cards are what was declared, then the player who challenged is penalised (with the penalty varying depending on the game). With players who cheat in other ways (say hiding cards, or false shuffling) then you can also call them on that too - as long as you declare what &quot;creative play&quot; you're calling them on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that even in these games that were designed to allow &quot;creative play&quot; there's still some honesty required - &quot;I think you're dealing from the bottom&quot; - &quot;No I'm not&quot;. Consequently, &lt;strong&gt;if players are going to be dishonest, you can't really stop them&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, practically, I would probably:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Settle on a game that the &quot;creative players&quot; think is interesting enough to play by the rules (good candidates are games with built in lies and deceit such as Cheat or Bang! - or games with intrigue such as Settlers), or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find house rules that all players are happy with, or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to play say, Cluedo, and players are breaking the mechanics by being &quot;creative&quot;, find other players.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2012-04-19T04:21:00.007" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T04:21:00.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7190" CreationDate="2012-04-19T04:04:45.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has been asked before. Luckily, the designer has clarified the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5415183#5415183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;. You suffer wounds at &lt;em&gt;the end&lt;/em&gt; of your heroic actions when minions are in your location, not during the Night when new minions are placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wounds are suffered at the end of your actions - the end of the Daytime Phase of play and prior to drawing Darkness Spreads cards. If Minions appear on your location by a Darkness Spreads card, you do not suffer wounds to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will also note that the rules regarding wounds suffered in this manner are covered within the Daytime section of the rule book, and not near the end of the rule book covering Night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T06:15:51.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7160" CreationDate="2012-04-19T10:19:08.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the official rules, your house rule (which I also used to play) IS currently official:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a player replaces a joker, they must use it in the same turn as part of a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it specifically contradicts your other house rule about manipulating sets containing  a Joker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sets containing jokers can be split and manipulated like regular sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FWIW, I used to play that Jokers didn't have to be replayed in NEW sets, but could alternatively be played in existing sets (e.g. I replace a Joker, and then add it to a 6-7-8 run as a 5 to allow me to play a 4). I infer from your question that your house rules require Jokers be replayed into new sets, but I may be misunderstanding your explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummikub.com/info/Rules.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rummikub.com/info/Rules.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T10:19:08.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7197" CreationDate="2012-04-19T16:49:54.947" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you start Magic Online today, is there a way to acquire Vanguard cards that do not come with the client but have been released in the past? Can they be bought or traded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T18:45:10.887" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T18:45:10.887" Title="Is it possible to get old Vanguard cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7196" CreationDate="2012-04-19T17:10:37.433" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can be traded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe they are sold by Wizards, when I used to play they were given as tournament or set release perks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ah, looks like nowadays new players &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/magiconline/vanguard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;get a booster pack&lt;/a&gt; of default Vanguard cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-04-19T17:10:37.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7200" CreationDate="2012-04-20T13:21:46.663" Score="13" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a game mechanic for a game I am designing,  that would let players randomly select other players, but that by the end of the game all the players were selected equally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first instinct was the destiny deck from Cosmic Encounters.  In that game there is a deck with a few cards representing each player.  On their turn the player draws a card, and interacts with the selected opponent.&#xA;The limitation of this solution is that sometimes players select themselves.  Cosmic encounters solves this by having rules for how to interact with yourself, but my game lacks this.  Even if i was to simply put the card on the bottom of the deck and draw a new one, there is a chance with the last card being left of the last player who must take the last turn.  At this point selecting another player randomly would unbalance the game, giving them an extra time they are selected.&#xA;Is there any other mechanic that can be used to solve this?&#xA;(I am in no way set on using cards.  Any mechanic would be OK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2012-04-20T17:46:29.890" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T20:51:53.757" Title="What game mechanic can be used for evenly selecting other players but not yourself?" Tags="|game-design|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2012-04-20T14:16:08.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is a separate destiny deck for each player. If you make the game for 6 players, then each player would have a &quot;destiny deck&quot; that includes the other 5 players. In games with fewer than 6 players, then the player colors not used are removed from all the destiny decks (though even if they forget, they can be discarded when drawn during the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To facilitate faster game starts, it would be nice to color code each destiny deck. So the red player would have a red on the back, color of another player on the front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T14:16:08.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2012-04-20T14:52:51.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is acceptable that the order of the players turns is different every round, you could have a deck with a card for each player, then draw the top card and let that player have the next card as target, and then the next player takes the third card as target.&#xA;Finally the last player uses the first one as target. This way each player is the target exactly once in every round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T14:52:51.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2012-04-20T17:09:53.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a good use for a bag of items - pawns colored per player, tokens, whatever you prefer. When you need to randomly select an opponent, draw one. If it's yourself, set it aside so you won't draw it again, then add it back in after you finish drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but of course, the situation you're trying to create isn't exactly ideal. If you reach the last player, and the only option left is that player, you're stuck. If you're okay with creating a little bit of inequality in player selection in this somewhat rare case, you could with it in an approximate way - if you do get stuck, just refill the bag and draw again. Otherwise, if you can handle a tiny bit of extra information (which is theoretically public to players with good memories), you could just draw the last two on the second-to-last turn, and swap the order if necessary. This isn't foolproof; the last two could both be for one of the last two players... but it might be good enough - and you could fall back to refilling the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: One other way to deal with potentially getting stuck: if you're okay with this kind of information, just leave the pieces out after being drawn in stacks/rows, so that you know how many are left of each in the bag. This is again something that an observant player could already know. You can then figure out if you need to do something besides draw randomly at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like any of this, I'm afraid there's not much you can do besides carefully constructing a deck at the beginning of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-04-21T16:56:48.623" LastActivityDate="2012-04-21T16:56:48.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2012-04-20T18:22:47.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At my low level I would say that in game of chess strategy is secondary one should concentrate on tactics a good site to do it is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chesstempo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chesstempo.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastActivityDate="2012-04-20T18:22:47.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2012-04-20T21:37:46.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use decks to indicate relative seating position instead of particular players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a four-player game, the deck would have cards saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player to your left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player two seats to your left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player three seats to your left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you want each player to get drawn the same number of times, you'll need a copy of this deck for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages of this method over a deck of absolute positions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't need to assign each player a number or color identity. For example, deep into a game of &lt;em&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/em&gt;, you don't want players to have to remember who was Player 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't need to make a custom deck for each player, which slightly simplifies manufacturing and setup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="475" LastEditDate="2012-04-24T20:51:53.757" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T20:51:53.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7260" CreationDate="2012-04-22T00:50:02.540" Score="10" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is creating a multiplayer dice game. The game rules are currently designed for 3-5 players, and don't require much of an investment for the PnP to create the necessary components. Only a 30 card deck needs to be printed, a lot of dice, and a pen and paper to keep track of score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has been struggling to come up with a solo variant, because he believes that a large majority of the PnP community either plays PnP games solo, or most PnPers like to try out the game by themselves before bringing it to their group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This got me to wondering,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a solo player variant, is your PnP likely to get played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you also need 2, 3, 4, ..., player variants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the optimal number of players for a game? Is the number of players that will play a PnP designed for 1 player the greatest, and as the number of players increases, the likelihood to find people willing to PnP decrease linerally (exponentially, or does the graph look like a bell curve?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T00:52:42.743" Title="Do you need a solo player variant to make a Print&amp;Play game successful?" Tags="|game-design|print-and-play|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="485" CreationDate="2012-04-22T04:49:23.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your talking about Nob Bikers, You would be Str 7 on the charge with 4 attacks, using WS5 (waggh banner). Hitting marines on a 3, wounding on a 2. (10) Nob Bikers kited with Waggh banner, 5 choppas, 2 power klaws and 3 slugga &amp;amp; choopas would get 43 attacks on the charge.&#xA;(20) Str 7 choppa attacks, (8) str 10 power klaw attacks, (15) str 5 slugga attacks. Furious charge grants the str +1. Not to mention the 30 Str 5 TL shots you put into them before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL Str 5 shots @ BS2 = 20 hits, Wound on 3's, 10 wounds, 3+ save. 3 die from shooting.&#xA;On the Charge  @ WS5 = 13 hits(Choppa), 6 hits (Klaw), 9 hits (slugga) &#xA;would theoretically yield = 11 wounds (Choppa) 5 wounds (Klaw), 5 wounds (Slugga)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 wounds. 5 of which Ignore armor saves and ID. Of the remaining 16 wounds, They would save ten. Yielding another 6 dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shooting+Melee = 14 Dead marines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2770" LastActivityDate="2012-04-22T04:49:23.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7208" CreationDate="2012-04-23T08:00:57.557" Score="26" ViewCount="8887" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, we've always played that you cannot put the robber back in the desert.  But watching tabletop this week, they did exactly that, and in the youtube comments people have said that the 4th edition rules don't say you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a definitive ruling for this in the latest ruleset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2019-03-09T23:04:45.210" Title="In Catan, can you put the robber on the desert?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8556" CreationDate="2012-04-23T08:38:10.777" Score="4" ViewCount="1118" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to test my ranking system based on information theory. &#xA;I need a database of games with outcomes and ranks of the single players.&#xA;Where can I find this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2771" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-10-10T00:06:53.603" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T16:51:43.500" Title="Database of chess games for evaluating ranking systems?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7206" CreationDate="2012-04-23T10:13:34.993" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 5 of the &quot;Base Game Rules&quot; downloadable from catan.com/gamerules.html (describing what happens when you roll a 7, or use a knight card):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) You must move the robber immediately to the number token of any&#xA;  other terrain hex &lt;strong&gt;or to the desert hex&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine.)  This page was last updated in January 2012, so I would assume it's a pretty current version of the rules almanac!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T10:13:34.993" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2012-04-23T14:39:41.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're happy with the way everything is working except for this edge case, you could just make it so the last 2 cards are drawn simultaneously. The second to last player gets the first card drawn unless the last player would end up with him/herself, in which case they switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2259" LastEditorUserId="2259" LastEditDate="2012-04-23T15:00:32.163" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T15:00:32.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7198" CreationDate="2012-04-23T15:30:52.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have one deck, with X cards for each player. When you need to select a random player draw a card from the deck. If you draw yourself, draw again. Shuffle any cards drawn for yourself back in and discard the card you drew for another player. Since each player draws from the same deck, in general everyone will get picked the same amount. The exception would be if one player is drawing from the deck more than other players the deck may eventually be JUST their cards. So you'll need to make sure that X is large enough to avoid a reshuffle unless a) everyone chooses other players evenly, or a small amount of unevenness is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T15:30:52.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2270" CreationDate="2012-04-23T17:34:43.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an old question, but I'm going to leave the answer here in case anyone else comes here looking for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pass&quot; has a specific meaning, defined in the Intrigue rulebook like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Pass” – when a player passes a card to another player, he places that card face down&#xA;on the table between himself and the other player. The receiving player then takes the&#xA;card from the table and puts it in his hand. A passed card is not revealed to the other&#xA;players. A passed card is not considered to be trashed or discarded by the player&#xA;passing it and it is not considered to be gained by the player receiving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I logged the Androminion bug, so that should be fixed pretty soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2773" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T17:34:43.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7018" CreationDate="2012-04-23T21:14:11.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As thesunneversets said, if you have no cards in hand and in your deck when you play dominion, you do not pass a card, but your opponent still has to. This is the key to the dreaded king's court / masquerade lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2011/03/18/combo-of-the-day-24-kings-courtgoonsmasquerade/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dominionstrategy.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The key lies in trimming your deck down to where you have a four-card hand of King’s Court, King’s Court, Goons, and Masquerade. Playing King’s Court – King’s Court – Goons reduces your opponent to 3 cards; here, playing a (Kinged) Masquerade forces him to pass you a card.  But since you have no more cards in hand, you aren’t obliged to pass him anything, and thus you can basically trash cards out of his hand.  Played consistently, you can force your opponent into a 0-card hand every turn while you empty some non-terminal piles for VPs.  Eventually, all the cards in their deck will be trashed, hopefully before the piles are run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic ingredients are 2 king's court, goons/militia/ghost ship/outpost, and masquerade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these cards are in the kingdom in a 2-player game, the first to get the right combination usually wins the game, no matter how many provinces the other already has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting it up is easier than you may think, if you aggressively use masquerade to trash cards, or have another trasher like chapel to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your opponent buys 7 provinces while you set up this combo, once you have it running, your opponent will lose all their victory cards, start every turn with 0 cards and will only be able to buy copper or curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once he has zero cards, you can deplete piles, and get some victory points on the last turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only chance the other player has is getting a huge lead in vp chips before the lock hits, since vp chips cannot be taken away, and your own possibilities to gain vp while executing the combo are strictly limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donald X, the creator of dominion has &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6521454#6521454&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this to say about the combo&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I did not see the King's Court / Masquerade combo in playtesting. I'm sure the cards must have come up, I mean I played those sets together, but I never noticed the combo or saw it done. It is on the subtle side. [...]&#xA;  If you see a crazy thing once in a blue moon, I think that's great. If King's Court / Masquerade is a three-card combo, i.e. if you have to specifically have X Y or Z to make it work (okay a 2.8-card combo or whatever), then I think it's just a cool thing. It won't come up often; when it does you can be the person who spotted it and made out. We have a crazy game and then move on to the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2767" LastActivityDate="2012-04-23T21:14:11.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7183" CreationDate="2012-04-23T21:43:03.443" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about adding a new rule to the game you're playing. Let the cheater play a cheating position, either openly or hidden, with the agreed limitation that he or she can't possibly win; or else they must keep track of every cheat they do and get scored on how well they cheated with the possibility of wining that way. Most times it's not about defeating your opponents but more about getting away with it. Creative people deserve creative scoring!!! Also, this will remove the incentive to cheat in the long run and bring said creative person back to the corroborative nature of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2775" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T21:59:41.973" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T21:59:41.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15" CreationDate="2012-04-23T23:54:03.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, small islands are usually not worth going for in the beginning of the game because the amount of territory you get access to is not worth the resource requirements. Obviously, the larger the island, the closer it is to your starting position, and the more dots worth of production, then the more worth while it is to go for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even if you don't settle any islands for the first 80% of your game, there are two big strategy changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Ships can be moved (1 per turn). Building many ships can be a strategic choice that offers many tactical advantages during the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is possible to build an additional settlement without needing to first build&#xA;a road or ship, by relocating a ship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In basic Settlers it can be very risky to go for a settlement site when&#xA;there's competition, as you may end up with 2 or more stranded and&#xA;useless road links. Now if you compete with ships to a coastal site,&#xA;you can relocate them if you lose a race.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do tricky things with getting longest road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In scenarios where resources are earned for island exploration, you&#xA;can move your ships around to keep getting more resources, then&#xA;relocate them to their final destination later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With ships opening up so many more opportunities, wood and sheep are more valuable in Seafarers than in Settlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The bonus victory point(s) offered in many scenarios for building your first island settlement makes for an interesting end game strategy not available in basic settlers. As discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6984/what-is-optimal-end-play-in-settlers&quot;&gt;What is optimal end play in Settlers?&lt;/a&gt;, it can be hard to win Settlers by increasing one victory point at a time, as players gang up to slow the leader. In Seafarers, islands make it possible to catapult to victory with a 4-6 victory point turn. You do this by waiting to settle your first island on the turn you think you can win because you have the right combination of resource and development cards, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play a key development card (Monopoly? Year of Plenty? Road&#xA;Building?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move a ship&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build more ships/roads until you have longest road (2 victory points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build a settlement on the island (2-3 victory points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add in your developments cards that are victory points (0 or more&#xA;points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building your first settlement on an island counts for 1 victory point for the settlement, and 1-2 bonus points depending on the scenario and the edition of Settlers of Catan edition you're using. Older editions have a 1 victory point bonus, while the newest edition usually offers a 2 victory point bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About gold: In most games I've played, islands with gold usually take a lot of resources to reach and then attract the robber disproportionately. So going for gold is rarely a winning strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T21:00:47.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7216" CreationDate="2012-04-24T06:01:18.990" Score="6" ViewCount="6125" Body="&lt;p&gt;In BANG!, if a player has the dynamite in front of them when they die, what happens to the dynamite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that change when someone's special skill is to receive the cards of dead people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="625" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T06:36:18.240" Title="What happens to the dynamite when you die?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7215" CreationDate="2012-04-24T06:19:56.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dynamite is discarded unless the dynamite didn't kill the dead player AND Vulture Sam is playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Bang! &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/7676/bang-consolidated-faq-doc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;consolidated FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the Dynamite explodes eliminating a player, does the character Vulture Sam draw the Dynamite along with all other cards of the player eliminated?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. To complete the effect of the Dynamite you have to discard it after it explodes. So when Vulture Sam gets all the cards of the player killed, the Dynamite is already in the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the Dynamite hasn't exploded, Vulture Sam picks it up as normal (since he takes all cards from the dead player). From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davincigames.net/bang/bang_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;whenever a character is&#xA;eliminated from the game,&#xA;Sam takes all the cards&#xA;that player had in his&#xA;hand and in play, and adds them to&#xA;his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the Dynamite did explode (killing the player), Vulture Sam does not pick it up, since it has been discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If Vulture Sam (or similar) isn't playing, then the dynamite is discarded along with all other cards of the dead player. Again, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davincigames.net/bang/bang_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are&#xA;eliminated from the game, show your role card and discard all the cards you&#xA;have in hand and in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T06:36:18.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6371" CreationDate="2012-04-24T16:33:26.473" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the university might be a reasonable strategy, but you have to save for it and buy it early.  I've tried this a couple of times, and never won with it though :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T16:33:26.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6659" CreationDate="2012-04-24T17:59:54.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;SOMEONE goofed on the ALLIED side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can say that person was the U.S. player, who got bogged down in a war against Japan instead of concentrating on Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the other person that was slack was the Russian player. The WHOLE PURPOSE of making a non-aggression pact with Japan was so that Russia could work with the UK to concentrate on Germany. This country can't defeat both Russia and the UK (who start with 54 IPCs versus 32 for Germany) unless Japan is reducing the income of Russia and the UK in a big way. In this context, with Russia being &quot;spared,&quot; Japan's conquering Australia, New Zealand, and India won't do it, especially if she has her hands full with U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless Russia sat by and did nothing while Germany defeated the UK, Japan neutralized America, and the (enlarged) Axis powers finished the game by ganging up on Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-04-24T17:59:54.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7325" CreationDate="2012-04-24T22:28:44.560" Score="7" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've encountered the following card while playing Pirate King:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Man of War: Fight ship of equal value: win 1 crew 1 cannon and 500 bronze&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how to interpret it and I haven't really gotten a consensus from my fellow players either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far we have two different interpretations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That this is a challenge and the recipient must actually fight a ship of equal value in game combat, and if they win, they receive the stated reward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That this is simply an event that has occurred, like cargo spoiling, and that it has already played out in the recipient's favour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see how both interpretations work, and I'm not sure which one to pick as the &quot;right&quot; answer. The instructions don't provide much guidance on this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else come up with a definitive answer for this card? What logic or source did you use to make your decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2330" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T02:23:56.437" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T02:23:56.437" Title="How literally should I take the &quot;Man of War&quot; in Pirate King?" Tags="|pirate-king|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7222" CreationDate="2012-04-25T01:25:48.280" Score="10" ViewCount="7623" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride Europe introduces train stations to connect cities through routes that belong to other players. It recently became a point of debate whether stations can be used to connect cities over empty routes. Upon reviewing the rules I found them to be somewhat ambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that a station allows its owner &quot;&lt;em&gt;to use one ... of the routes belonging to another player.&lt;/em&gt;&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Building a train station&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Train Station allows its owner to use one, and only one, of the routes belonging to another player, into (or out of) that city to help him connect the cities on his Destination Tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further along the rules state that stations can be built on a city even if it currently has no claimed routes into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stations may be built on any unoccupied city, even if it currently has no claimed routes into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me &lt;em&gt;belonging to another player&lt;/em&gt; means the route must be occupied by another player. Yet stations can be built on cities that have no routes built into them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the entire point of stations is to give players an opportunity to complete routes that have been taken by other players; otherwise, there should be nothing to prevent the player from building into their destinations. Allowing players to build stations on cities with no routes built into them opens the possibility to easily complete routes by placing a station without having to pay the cost of the route. This could prove decisive at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T04:47:42.737" Title="Can stations be used to traverse empty routes in Ticket to Ride Europe?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7227" CreationDate="2012-04-25T02:32:16.500" Score="6" ViewCount="5064" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mancala, are you allowed to pick up and count the number of stones your opponent has if the cup is too small to be able to see?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2778" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T02:40:28.623" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T04:39:17.137" Title="In Mancala, are you allowed to pick up and count your opponent's stones?" Tags="|mancala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7220" CreationDate="2012-04-25T02:56:20.087" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't actually see any ambiguity here. You've quoted the rule saying a Station allows you to use someone else's route. I don't see how that could imply that a Station can &lt;em&gt;complete&lt;/em&gt; a route that hasn't yet been filled in by anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you are allowed to place Stations on any city, including currently unlinked cities, is to allow you to place a Station strategically, before anyone else. This is important, because only one player can control a Station in any given city. If you suspect that in the late game you will need a Station in a city, or you would like to block other players from placing a Station, then this could be a smart move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of Stations is to give you the possibility of still completing routes, albeit at some cost (since you don't get your four points at the end for the unused Station). As you point out, if you could use them to effectively 'jump' the last leg of a route, then that would change the entire dynamic, and would indeed make Stations much more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So based on the rules, and the intended use of Stations, I'm quite confident that completing empty routes using Stations is not intended, or legal. Someone that's played the online version of the game could confirm this, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T02:56:20.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7230" CreationDate="2012-04-25T04:22:57.500" Score="2" ViewCount="1336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I'm playing a Vampiric Race and have The Shiny Orb. Another player has a ton of territories with only single units in them adjacent to me. Can I use vampire to take one and then The Shiny Orb to take another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about if I am a Magic race and have The Shiny Orb? Can I effectively use it twice on each opponent? Twice total on two different opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My confusion arises because in the &quot;shorthand rules&quot; for The Shiny Orb it specifies once per turn per opponent, but in the rule book it says once per opponent. It also says that it counts the same as Vampirism in the full rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T11:59:48.223" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T11:59:48.223" Title="How many times can I use The Shiny Orb?" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7229" CreationDate="2012-04-25T04:27:20.367" Score="1" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have four territories in a row along the river and the Fisher Special power. Are they worth 2 bonus coins or 3? If I have two territories that skirt the river but are non contiguous are they worth anything? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were playing that their bonus is (# of river adjacent territories/2) but I suspect that each unique pair of adjacent territories that are both adjacent to the river counts. The terminology in the rules isn't clear enough for me to be sure either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:32:01.470" Title="How does Fisher work?" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7228" CreationDate="2012-04-25T04:32:04.620" Score="2" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little unclear on the wording of the Flames. What does &quot;Empty&quot; mean? Does it ignore mountains? Shields? I'm fairly certain it ignores troops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side question (maybe this should be a separate question?!) can Flames travel through the Great Brass Pipe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:26:06.890" Title="How do the Flames work?" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7231" CreationDate="2012-04-25T04:37:34.283" Score="2" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a Magic race AND I have picked up The Scepter of Avarice. If I put them both (and use the Magic Token as a second Scepter) in the same region do I get 4 coins? If I am the Shrooms and I put them both in a Mushroom Forest do I get 8? What if I control the Diamond Mines and they are in a Mushroom Forest as well? Is that 16?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:43:52.780" Title="Double Double, toil and trouble" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7221" CreationDate="2012-04-25T04:39:17.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;serious play&quot; you are not allowed to touch or count any piles. If you touch one of your own piles you have committed to picking up and playing that pile. Touching your opponent's piles, or either players' score piles is forbidden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T04:39:17.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7225" CreationDate="2012-04-25T05:26:06.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Empty does not mean &quot;needs 2 critters to conquer&quot; it means without monster or race tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, bottom of page 9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Region is deemed non-empty if, and only if, it contains at&#xA;  least one Monster or Race token (Active or In Decline). A Region&#xA;  that contains a Black Mountain marker, a Popular Place or a&#xA;  Righteous Relic but no Monster or enemy Race token is&#xA;  considered empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Great Brass Pipe considers spaces adjacent for the purposes of the owning race, so Flames should be continuous through it.  This is confirmed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=22605&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:26:06.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7224" CreationDate="2012-04-25T05:32:01.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Four territories in a row are worth 2 bonus coins.  Adjacency doesn't matter.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=22605&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q.&lt;/strong&gt; If a Fisher Race occupies 4 regions in a row that borders the river, does that count as 3 pairs (AB, BC, CD) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A.&lt;/strong&gt; No. That would count as 2 pairs, AB and CD. Note that these regions do not need to be adjacent to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:32:01.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7223" CreationDate="2012-04-25T05:37:06.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook (page 14) states that the Shiny Orb can only be used once per turn.  Nothing about per opponent.  You can use it but once each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use it in addition to the Vampire power (which can be used once per opponent per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are Magic, then you can use it one additional time, on the same or different opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:37:06.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7226" CreationDate="2012-04-25T05:43:52.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no possibility of using 2 Scepter's of Avarice in the same area.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=22605&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q.&lt;/strong&gt; May I use the Bag o'Many Things to duplicate the power of a Relic in a region where that Relic already is? For example, may I use the Bag on the Scepter of Avarice to quadruple my region's income?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A.&lt;/strong&gt; No. The power of a Relic cannot be duplicated in a region where that power already applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T05:43:52.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7232" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-04-25T14:36:43.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T14:36:43.227" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T14:36:43.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7233" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-04-25T14:36:43.227" Score="0" Body="Flames of War is a tabletop miniatures game that allows players to re-create European battles of World War II at a squad, platoon, company or battalion level. Players command figurines of tanks, guns and soldiers and take turns to move, shoot and assault using reasonably simple rules along with dice and a tape measure." OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-04-25T14:49:21.027" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T14:49:21.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7236" CreationDate="2012-04-25T14:41:09.223" Score="6" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am developing a strategy game for two players. It is something&#xA;somehow in the line of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/26839/filosofia-french-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1960: The Making of the&#xA;President&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(but less complicated and with a quicker gaming rhythm…) Both the theme&#xA;and the mechanics I have thought are optimised for two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adapting the theme should not be very difficult ; it would mostly be a&#xA;matter of choosing another contestant. Adapting the rules would&#xA;require substantially more work and I fear that it might lessen&#xA;playability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think that it is worth doing it that restricting&#xA;the number of players to exactly two is not &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; restrictive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2676" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T03:14:47.950" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T03:14:47.950" Title="A game for two. Should I make it playable by more?" Tags="|game-design|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7234" CreationDate="2012-04-25T16:11:40.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people WANT a game for two players, and I can see a game that is obviously optimised for two as having a valuable USP all of its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example of a popular existing game for two, I offer to you Reiner Knizia's &quot;Lost Cities&quot; (though he did in fact create another game later using a similar central mechanic for larger numbers of players).  With a bit of work you can adapt this for 3-4, but you have to buy an extra set to do so!  Even so, it's a really popular game for couples and people without regular access to large gaming groups.  I'm sure your game could be successful on similar terms too - if it's any good of course!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T16:11:40.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7234" CreationDate="2012-04-25T16:15:18.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, probably not at first.  Most truly enduring games (Chess, Go, Reversi, even Magic: The gathering, etc) were originally for two players.  But also most of them have variants that arose later that allow 4 players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if adapting for more than 2 players is non-obvious, then it is probably not worth the initial effort.  But if the game becomes popular and there is a demand for a multiplayer version, then it is likely worth doing at that point.  The changes could be fairly small, or they could be substantial (Magic required only small tweaks to produce multiple multiplayer variants, but most multiplayer versions of chess require a different board and rules tweaks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2198" LastActivityDate="2012-04-25T16:15:18.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7242" CreationDate="2012-04-26T01:52:27.713" Score="6" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deranged%20Outcast&quot;&gt;Deranged Outcast&lt;/a&gt; and no other creatures in play, and I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulvenwald%20Bear&quot;&gt;Ulvenwald Bear&lt;/a&gt; in hand. I would like to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast the Bear and put the Morbid trigger on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have the Deranged Outcast sacrifice himself while the Morbid trigger is on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put 4 +1/+1 counters on the Bear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this play possible/legal? Is there some other order of play that could achieve the same effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T05:47:17.177" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T05:47:17.177" Title="Can Morbid be triggered after the Morbid creature is cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2012-04-26T01:55:12.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply put, no. The text on the bear states &lt;code&gt;when it enters the battlefield&lt;/code&gt;. That is the only opportunity to apply such effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be different if the text said &lt;code&gt;morbid - this creature gets +4/+4 if a creature died earlier this turn&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T01:55:12.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7241" CreationDate="2012-04-26T01:56:08.480" Score="3" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226884&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;exile target card from a graveyard&quot;&gt;Purify the Grave&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=237361&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rally The Peasants&lt;/a&gt; in my graveyard. If I have enough mana available, can I cast the Rally the Peasants in response to their trying to exile it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T12:36:04.780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T12:36:04.780" Title="If my opponent casts a spell that exiles a card with flashback from my graveyard, can I play it in response to their spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7240" CreationDate="2012-04-26T02:48:50.887" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can cast an instant whenever you have priority. All spells give all players the chance to respond to them, before they resolve. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120201.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mtg Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1a A player may cast an &lt;strong&gt;instant spell&lt;/strong&gt; any time he or she has &lt;strong&gt;priority&lt;/strong&gt;. A player may cast a noninstant spell during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player &lt;strong&gt;passes&lt;/strong&gt;. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.4. If &lt;strong&gt;all players pass&lt;/strong&gt; in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the &lt;strong&gt;spell or ability on top of the stack resolves&lt;/strong&gt; or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.32a Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player’s graveyard and the other that functions while the card is on the stack. “&lt;strong&gt;Flashback [cost]” means “You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;” and “If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.” Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T02:48:50.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7238" CreationDate="2012-04-26T02:56:17.507" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, but not for the reason &lt;strong&gt;corsiKa&lt;/strong&gt; states. The reason that you cannot do this is because the Ulvenwald Bear's triggered ability has an &quot;intervening if clause.&quot; For triggered abilities with intervening if clauses, the condition is checked both when the triggered ability would be put on the stack and once again when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].” When the trigger event occurs, &lt;strong&gt;the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is&lt;/strong&gt;; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the “intervening ‘if’ clause” rule. (The word “if” has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an “if” that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T02:56:17.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2012-04-26T18:53:28.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;General Strategies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is, as people have mentioned, not a great matchup for you. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; in particular is pretty much going to sit there exiling things all willy-nilly. The artifacts, really, aren't what you need to worry about, so the counters you're running aren't going to be nearly as relevant. The only spells you're likely to counter at all would be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=All%20is%20Dust&quot;&gt;All is Dust&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wurmcoil%20Engine&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; (and possibly some of the SB cards), so save your counters for them. I wouldn't cut too many counters (remembering that you're going to be seeing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Grudge&quot;&gt;Ancient Grudge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seal%20of%20Primordium&quot;&gt;Seal of Primordium&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Combust&quot;&gt;Combust&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyroclasm&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt; second game), but you'll need some deck-specific hate after the first game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Specific Hate&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Land Hate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing permanent destruction cards (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Saltblast&quot;&gt;Saltblast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necrotic%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Necrotic Sliver&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) and exiles (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Extirpate&quot;&gt;Extirpate&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) get you the opportunity to take out their key lands. Some goofy things to deal with Tron include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20Leshrac&quot;&gt;Herald of Leshrac&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helldozer&quot;&gt;Helldozer&lt;/a&gt;, though I wouldn't say either are competitive enough for you to actually run. A third option and decent reanimation target (though fairly outside your mana base) is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Realm%20Razer&quot;&gt;Realm Razer&lt;/a&gt;, though if he's already got some mana rocks out he's not as helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Karn Hate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the permanent destruction strategies mentioned above, Scourglass can take care of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;, but only for a little while). There's also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mangara%20of%20Corondor&quot;&gt;Mangara of Corondor&lt;/a&gt;, which could make for a good reanimation target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Artifact Hate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stony%20Silence&quot;&gt;Stony Silence&lt;/a&gt;, while goofy, does seem like it would work surprisingly well - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; and all their mana rocks are dead in the water for CMC 2 sounds really nice. There's also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kataki%2C%20War%27s%20Wage&quot;&gt;Kataki, War&amp;#39;s Wage&lt;/a&gt; - it could definitely slow them down a bit (and can be a reanimation target).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Search Hate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aven%20Mindcensor&quot;&gt;Aven Mindcensor&lt;/a&gt; does a particularly good job keeping them from using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eye%20of%20Ugin&quot;&gt;Eye of Ugin&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Expedition%20Map&quot;&gt;Expedition Map&lt;/a&gt; properly, and makes your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;s even better, so it seems like a prime reanimation target. Some alternatives include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leonin%20Arbiter&quot;&gt;Leonin Arbiter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindlock%20Orb&quot;&gt;Mindlock Orb&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadow%20of%20Doubt&quot;&gt;Shadow of Doubt&lt;/a&gt; (though Shadow doesn't have any real lasting power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Emrakul Hate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, Extract isn't Modern-legal. There is the idea of pre-Emrakul'ing them, though - something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20Specimens&quot;&gt;Gather Specimens&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Telemin%20Performance&quot;&gt;Telemin Performance&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bribery&quot;&gt;Bribery&lt;/a&gt; could work surprisingly well. You could also steal it by reanimating something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conquering%20Manticore&quot;&gt;Conquering Manticore&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dominus%20of%20Fealty&quot;&gt;Dominus of Fealty&lt;/a&gt;, or the new &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zealous%20Conscripts&quot;&gt;Zealous Conscripts&lt;/a&gt; (which could be interesting with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;). Lastly, there's always &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Journey%20to%20Nowhere&quot;&gt;Journey to Nowhere&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mangara%20of%20Corondor&quot;&gt;Mangara of Corondor&lt;/a&gt; mentioned above could also work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand Hate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shimian%20Specter&quot;&gt;Shimian Specter&lt;/a&gt; could actually be a very viable threat as a reanimation target here - if you can get him out and swinging, you can do some healthy damage to his deck. Yanking out those Urza lands (or if you're lucky, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wurmcoil%20Engine&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt;) could be pretty rough for your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Final Recommendations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For everything I've already mentioned here, it still seems worth mentioning that only one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; and two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindbreak%20Trap&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt;s seem a little low, and both of those cards seem like much better options than anything I've mentioned (except maybe &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aven%20Mindcensor&quot;&gt;Aven Mindcensor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stony%20Silence&quot;&gt;Stony Silence&lt;/a&gt;). Needle &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;, and wait for a hard-cast Emrakul that you can trap it - they'll be running &lt;em&gt;maybe&lt;/em&gt; four anti-artifact cards, so you running another &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; or two be smart. As for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindbreak%20Trap&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt;s, I'd say three might be the magic number, especially considering &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you can fit in, I'd say running &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aven%20Mindcensor&quot;&gt;Aven Mindcensor&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stony%20Silence&quot;&gt;Stony Silence&lt;/a&gt; can also be a very good idea - play around with what feels best. Consider also that third game (if not second) you'll be seeing the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Combust&quot;&gt;Combust&lt;/a&gt;s and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyroclasm&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt;s, so that will cause some trouble for your Mindcensors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-03T03:27:22.853" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T03:27:22.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7244" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-04-26T21:12:39.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern is a Constructed tournament format for Magic: the Gathering. Players construct decks with a minimum of 60 cards from sets starting with Eight Edition (corresponding to the card face update) and going to the present day, with the exception of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrmodern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;banned list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/155a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;officially introduced in 2011&lt;/a&gt;, based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgoverextended.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Overextended&quot;&lt;/a&gt; fan format. Currently, one of the three yearly Pro Tour events is Modern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern is a non-rotating format. Unlike Legacy and Vintage, no Modern cards are on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/products/reprintpolicy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reserve list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-09T15:39:41.083" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T15:39:41.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7245" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-04-26T21:12:39.453" Score="0" Body="Modern is a Magic: the Gathering constructed tournament format played with cards from Eight Edition onward." OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-26T21:12:39.453" LastActivityDate="2012-04-26T21:12:39.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7246" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-27T01:54:55.343" Score="10" ViewCount="2629" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first round of a draft, I usually just pick the best card from every pack. After that I look at what I've picked, try to pick good on-color card in the second pack, and pick whatever my deck needs in the last round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed in some of the commentated drafts I've watched online that the players often establish their colors by the fifth pick and then avoid picking anything off-color unless its a ridiculous bomb. For example, if you open something like a Sorin or Garruk on the third pack, you should probably pick it whether its on color of off-color unless there's some &lt;strong&gt;amazing&lt;/strong&gt; uncommon that would work perfectly with the cards you've picked so far. Aside from monetary reasons, its often worth splashing just for that one card, and at the very least you deprive some one else of an ideal bomb. Otherwise they remain faithfully on color no matter what passes by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When should I determine what colors I'm playing in an MTG draft?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I try to start staying only on color as early as the middle of the first pack, or what until the beginning or even middle of the second pack? If I pick early I get a wider variety of card in my color, but I may end up not playing another color/deck that could be far better due to my narrow-mindedness. How can I establish a successful balance between these two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:03:02.460" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T18:03:02.460" Title="When to choose what colors I will play and vary my picks accordingly?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-27T03:50:08.703" Score="0" ViewCount="939" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you still generate more Mushroom Armor while in decline? What about the turn you go into decline? There is a little disagreement about how to interpret the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each Mushroom Forest Region you occupy at the end of your Conquest phase, take 1 Mushroom Armor from the tray in your hand. Deploy these Mushroom Armors in any of your Region(s), during your Troop Redeployment phase. Each Armor placed in a Region augments that Region's defense by 1, even when In Decline. These markers do not count as Race tokens (for instance a single Race token with 1 or more Shields in a Region could still be Vampirized). You can stack multiple Mushroom Armor in the same Region. Remove the Armor and discard them back in the tray when you abandon the Region or an enemy conquers it. Otherwise keep it in play as long as your Shield troops are on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited for full rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2012-04-28T01:58:07.733" LastActivityDate="2012-04-28T01:58:07.733" Title="Mushroom Armor In decline?" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2012-04-27T04:42:52.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to Limited, like Constructed, is to build a deck with a gameplan. Your colors are a part of that, but not the totality of it: any given color can support multiple strategies, and focusing your deck around a particular strategy -- e.g. fast damage, 2-for-1 card advantage, evasive beatdown, just stalling long enough to drop your bomb, &amp;amp;c. -- is generally more successful than just drafting a two-color &quot;good stuff&quot; deck with some bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're drafting, there's a bit of tension between going with the flow and controlling it. Every card you receive tells you more about what you're likely to see later, but every card &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; pass also &lt;em&gt;directly influences&lt;/em&gt; what you'll receive later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ideally, you want to establish your plan quickly so that you can send coherent signals to the other players.&lt;/strong&gt; The big reward for this is when they stay out of your space and you scoop up all the good cards for your archetype from around the table. However, you can't close yourself off to what the other players are doing, because other players' choice of colors and archetypes may conflict with yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many draft strategy articles recommend choosing your first color immediately, within something like the first three cards, and then waiting until around your second pack to lock in your second. The subtext is that the best way to signal consistently is to start as early as possible, but leaving your second color choice for later makes it easy to adapt to what's open. This is a quick and easy rule of thumb, but it doesn't really capture all the nuances of drafting your deck. In particular, just because you have a steady stream of cards in a specific color doesn't mean they'll all work together nicely -- if you get stuck with a bunch of Skaab and midrange flyers in triple-Innistrad draft, for instance, you may be stuck unable to actually cast your big beefy Zombies until the late game because your graveyard is too empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My usual goal in draft is to work out a specific plan as quickly as possible so that I can pick up critical &lt;em&gt;enablers&lt;/em&gt; for it&lt;/strong&gt;, and just let the colors fall into place based on availability of cards that support my archetype. Sometimes this means shifting colors late in the game when I see that cards that match my deck are moving my way -- even if the color they're in is otherwise pretty picked-over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-04-27T13:00:13.297" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T13:00:13.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7247" CreationDate="2012-04-27T09:39:34.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't generate more Mushroom Armor in decline.  From the rules on entering in Decline:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To do so, the player flips his current Race banner upside down, so&#xA;  that the duotone In Decline side becomes visible to all, and discards&#xA;  the Special Power badge that was associated with it as that Special&#xA;  Power badge is no longer in effect, unless dictated otherwise (e.g.&#xA;  Muddy, Reborn, Royal, etc…).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the turn you go into Decline, the rules for Shield state &lt;strong&gt;&quot;For each Mushroom Forest Region you occupy at the end of your Conquest phase&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.  Back to the rules for Decline: &lt;strong&gt;&quot;The player can make no conquests during the turn his race goes into decline; his turn ends immediately after scoring!&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you don't even get a Conquest phase on the turn you go into Decline, much less any new Mushroom Armor...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T09:39:34.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7246" CreationDate="2012-04-27T11:45:54.820" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the question you should be asking is not &quot;when to choose what colours I will play&quot;, but rather &lt;strong&gt;&quot;when to stop choosing what colours I will play&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic, and especially Magic draft, is a game that favours the adaptable.  When you make a first pick of a bomb in one colour, that does not commit you to playing that colour, but it suggests that you should weight all your subsequent picks accordingly.  If after the first two picks, your colour has completely dried up, then &lt;em&gt;you need to be adaptable enough to let go of that colour&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say that, on the 10th pick of pack 3, you should still be open to moving into a new colour!  Hopefully your colours and the basic nature of your deck (aggro/control/mill/whatever) will be more or less settled long before then.  So how do you determine when to start taking cards that fit into your deck (as you currently envision it), as opposed to more powerful picks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately there is no quick and easy formula.  But I would say it's when you can actually visualise the deck you're going to play.  Let's say your first two picks are white bombs: lucky for you, but you still can't visualise a deck on the back of two cards!  Let's say white dries up thereafter.  Now you have to visualise a new deck in the colour that you're actually being passed.  Can you visualise it with a white splash?  You should certainly be trying, but not so hard that you end up shoehorning in cards that don't actually fit due to your attachment issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point you will have double figures of cards that you can see working and playing well in the same deck together.  It's at about this point that I would suggest that you should be committing.  With half a deck already now you'll need to consider optimising your curve and filling any gaps in your deck (too few creatures for instance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm always wary of people who stubbornly try to force a deck that they've visualised &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; they have a good number of the cards for it.  Sometimes it can really pay off, but passing early bombs in pursuit of a deck that may or may not come, well, that's the drafting equivalent of refusing to mulligan a no-land-hand in the hope that all of your draws will be perfect, isn't it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T11:45:54.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2012-04-27T20:35:20.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to have to agree with the comments above, go to a chess site and play a few games, try to find an opponent that will explain what they did after the game is over.  On sites like chessworld.net, your opponent can see your score, and if you ask honestly what you should have done, most will tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a lot of cases when I found those willing to help, I challenged them to another game, and it involved running dialog...  Probably not fair games, but it did help to see what they were doing at the time they were doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastActivityDate="2012-04-27T20:35:20.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7256" CreationDate="2012-04-29T13:35:29.423" Score="8" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes declarer will lead a long suit from one hand, for a &quot;ruffing finesse&quot; in order to ruff with a void in the other. If the intervening opponent ruffs with say, the 9, the declarer might &quot;overruff&quot; to win the trick (and capture the opposing trump). If this opponent ruffs with the &quot;master&quot; trump, declarer might discard from a side suit instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the declarer had ONLY trumps left, he would have to &quot;discard&quot; a trump (underruff) if the opponent ruffs with the master trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are times when the declare will &quot;underruff&quot; even when he can &quot;overruff,&quot; or at least has a side suit card to discard. Why would that be? Would it be to &quot;throw in&quot; an opponent? Or might that side suit card have &quot;strategic&quot; value, such as for &quot;transportation&quot; to the other hand? How would that outweigh the value of the &quot;wasted&quot; trump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T14:57:47.217" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T23:16:03.040" Title="What is the purpose of &quot;underruffing&quot; in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2012-04-29T14:46:37.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first answer is good but I also want to point out a situation where it doesn't matter if you duck now or later:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your partner and one opponent are out of trump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the other opponent has 2 trump remaining that are in sequence&#xA;or close to it, (i.e. 8-9)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your hand is right after the opponent with 2 trump and you have 1&#xA;trump above the sequence and several trumps below it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under these conditions, you already know that your opponent will win one of his trumps and lose the other. So in some cases you may not be sacrificing anything by underruffing - just timing when you want the loss to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this timing option may want to lose earlier rather than later to set up running a long side suit without interference or some other sequence that requires you play a lot of cards in a row with appropriate transportation (not getting stuck in your hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T14:49:37.940" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T14:49:37.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2012-04-29T18:41:17.490" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some situations where underruffing might be required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Execute a Throw In&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following situation, where spades are trump and south is the declarer. The lead is with West and he leads a diamond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    -&#xA;    xxx&#xA;    -&#xA;    -&#xA;&#xA;-         KQT&#xA;-         -&#xA;AKQ       -&#xA;-         -&#xA;    AJ9&#xA;    -&#xA;    -&#xA;    -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South holding the AJ9 of trumps needs two of the last three tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West is on lead and leads a diamond and east holding the KQT of trumps ruffs with the Q.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now South must underruff with the 9, forcing East to lead from the KT into the AJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If South overruffs with the A, then South has to lead from the J9 into KT, losing two tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;To avoid a Squeeze&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On defense sometimes the defender is forced to underruff (discard a trump) to avoid being squeezed. This might well apply to declarer (but is probably unlikely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example for defense, consider the following example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          Txx&#xA;          KJxx&#xA;          xx&#xA;          KJxx&#xA;&#xA;x                  xxxx&#xA;T9x                Qxx&#xA;KQJTxx             xx&#xA;T9x                Qxxx&#xA;&#xA;          AKQJx&#xA;          Axx&#xA;          Axx&#xA;          Ax&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are East. South is declarer in small slam in spades after West preempts in diamonds (and showing 0-7 points in your system, just for the sake of this problem). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West leads the DK which declarer ducks and west continues with the diamond J which declarer wins the A. At this point declarer has 11 tricks, and knows you hold both the HQ and CQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now declarer plays AK of trump, and then ruffs a diamond in dummy with the T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you must now underruff! If you throw a heart, declarer can draw trumps throwing 2 clubs and 1 heart from from dummy, play A, K of hearts and drop your HQ, setting up the HJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you throw a club, declarer can play AK of clubs, and ruff a club, dropping your Q, with the HK as entry to the good CJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you underruff with a trump. Now declarer can draw trumps, but since you discard after dummy, you can just follow his discards and avoid being squeezed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;Executing a Trump coup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there might be trump coup situations where declarer/defender is trying to shorten the trump holding (to avoid being on lead at the wrong time) and might choose to underruff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example on defense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;           xxx&#xA;           Qxx &#xA;           xxxx&#xA;           Kxx&#xA;Txxxx              -&#xA;xxx                Jxxx&#xA;Txx                QJx&#xA;xx                 QJxxxx&#xA;&#xA;          AKQJ9&#xA;          AKx&#xA;          AKx&#xA;          Ax&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are west. South is declarer in a small slam in spades. You lead a heart which declarer wins in hand. He plays the trump ace, and gets the bad news.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like declarer now has two unavoidable losers, a trump and a diamond, but declarer tries his best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He plays one more round of trumps, cashes his hearts, and plays the A and K of clubs to reach this position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;           x&#xA;           - &#xA;           xxxx&#xA;           x&#xA;Txx              &#xA;-                   Immaterial&#xA;Txx                &#xA;-                 &#xA;&#xA;          QJ9&#xA;          -&#xA;          AKx&#xA;          -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declare now plays a club and ruffs it with the Q.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you must underruff!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you throw a diamond, declarer can play diamond A,K and low diamond. You are left with nothing but trumps and are forced to ruff that (basically ruffing your partners trick), and then lead from the Tx into declarers J9, allowing declarer to make the small slam!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, if you underruff, now when declarer plays diamond A, K and low, your partner can win it, and then your T becomes the setting trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So underruffing is not unheard of, and is sometimes required. There are probably more situations than described above, but I believe they(including 2 and 3 above) tend to appear rarely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T08:17:10.600" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T08:17:10.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-29T20:46:33.603" Score="11" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand how to use the Bridges (sort of), but I don't understand the strategy/purpose. In almost every expansion set the special rules or powers of the pieces makes sense to me but why would I play a bridge piece? If you are playing with the King set I understand there is a bonus for the longest road but other than that, what is the point of a bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2795" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T01:39:07.840" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T01:39:07.840" Title="In Carcassonne, what is the point of a Bridge in the expansion set?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7257" CreationDate="2012-04-29T20:54:29.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bridges help to significantly expand farmland, as farms &lt;em&gt;continue underneath the bridges&lt;/em&gt;.  Using them, you can make really quite massive farms, which means a truck load of points at game end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1704" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T20:54:29.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7257" CreationDate="2012-04-29T22:07:37.437" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Their primary purpose of bridges is to be able to play a tile that you normally could not because of a road.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have more options to finish a construction, sabotaging with roads/farms becomes significantly harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, bridges strongly affect farms. As Nick already pointed out, farms turn out to be massively larger. It's not at all uncommon to have a single, huge farmland that spans the entire map, minus the tiny farms at the edges sealed off by towns obviously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, invading an already occupied farmland becomes a lot easier than before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example (assuming only base set + first expansion), without bridges, the only way to cross a street in order to invade a farm was with the cloister + single road tile. For that purpose, the Bridges &amp;amp; Castles expansion not only adds bridges, but also several tiles with broken roads to accomplish the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2012-04-29T22:07:37.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7204" CreationDate="2012-04-30T00:52:42.743" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing particularly exclusive to print and play regarding solo play modes.  They have the same problems as buy and play games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a great many games that cannot adapt to single player, at least not while still being fundamentally the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest to your friend that he can work on a different game, perhaps inspired by the first, that would play solo, and free him from the burden of making a solo mode that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the geek lists at Board Game Geek &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamecategory/1120/print-play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Print &amp;amp; Play&lt;/a&gt;, and you'll see many of the top ranked games do not support 1 player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for an optimal number of players, you have averages, but there is no direct correlation between # of players and P&amp;amp;P popularity.  Other aspects of the game (fun, gameplay, etc.) are more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general statement about game popularity (not just P&amp;amp;P) does say that games that require a large number of players (&gt;4) or do not support up to 6 players tend to get played slightly less compared to games of equivalent gameplay, this is only due to the obvious logistics involved in finding a game that fits the number of players you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T00:52:42.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7276" CreationDate="2012-04-30T09:01:59.263" Score="4" ViewCount="4078" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTGO Cube Drafts were offered online a few weeks ago, and they'll be appearing again later this week. I didn't play any cube drafts the first time, largely because I was intimidated: I've never drafted any kind of cube before, a large portion of the cards are unknown to me, and there was no way I was going to be able to read through the 720 cards in the list and find a strategy on my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd really like to play the cube this time around, so I'm wondering: what strategies are recommended? How should I approach cube drafting in general, and the MTGO cube in particular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/927&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is the current cube list.&lt;/a&gt; Have at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T19:15:58.757" Title="Recommended strategies for the MTGO Cube" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7261" CreationDate="2012-04-30T11:26:04.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm also a beginner at cube draft, but I would recommend watching a few cube drafts by good drafters, e.g. at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.channelfireball.com&lt;/a&gt;. I feel they give a good feeling for what kind of decks can be drafted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T11:26:04.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7261" CreationDate="2012-04-30T12:36:33.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing I'm noticing from watching lots of Cube drafts is that red burn is pretty much a benchmark deck for the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a pool filled with so many &quot;power cards&quot; the temptation is always going to be to pack your deck full of flashy plays at the top end of the curve.  &lt;strong&gt;But just because this is Cube, it doesn't mean that good deckbuilding can go out of the window!&lt;/strong&gt;  The red deck takes advantage of quality burn and efficient cheap creatures to win the game before clunkier decks have even managed to deploy more than a couple of their 5++ casting cost threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cube is an interesting one, because it always seems to me that there are ready-made decks just sitting there in the pool waiting for someone to draft them.  If no one else drafts red aggro, and you get every card you need for the archetype, you are going to do very well indeed.  On the other hand, you are going to do much less well if you're competing for these resources with several other players.  I guess this is the story behind all Magic drafting really, but it's more obvious in Cube because you &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; what decks are in there for the making.  As such, watching for archetypes being passed to you, and trying not to hand them to the player on your left on a plate, is extra important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess to cut a long answer short, in ordinary drafting you would slam a power rare first pick every time and be glad for it.  In Cube, more of the cards are good or great, so it's less necessary to jump on bombs.  Having a good deck archetype will serve you a lot better than a random pile of overpowered (in isolation) cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T12:36:33.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-30T20:44:56.957" Score="0" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I haven't played very much, I've noticed there seems to be slightly more luck in sealed than in draft. In draft, skill can prevail by recognizing bombs/archetypes, observing what colors are available, stealing good cards from your opponents, etc, while in sealed you are just forced to work with what you have; if you are stuck with mediocre rares and no good uncommons that fit with your general color pool, you're probably going to do slightly worse against somebody without these initial disadvantages no matter how skilled you are at deckbuilding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much luck is present in the 3 popular limited formats? Which have the most and least luck involved in determining the winner of individual matches and tournaments? In which is it easiest and hardest to win when you are the superior player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: by 3 limited formats, I mean &lt;strong&gt;booster draft, 6-pack 40-card sealed&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;4-pack 30 card sealed.&lt;/strong&gt; Feel free to include information on other limited formats if you like but these were the ones I'm most interested in addressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T00:14:45.523" Title="Relative amounts of luck in MTG limited formats?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|luck|sealed-deck|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2012-04-30T21:26:27.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually a rather large DB of chess games at &lt;a href=&quot;http://chesstempo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://chesstempo.com&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm not sure how open they are with it, but it could be a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2781" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T21:26:27.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-30T22:24:47.083" Score="22" ViewCount="65982" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having fun practicing drafts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://draft.bestiaire.org/&quot;&gt;draft simulators like this one&lt;/a&gt;, but sometimes I'd like to actually be able to play with the deck I built. Since all of the other players on these simulators are Bots, I have to be content with always wondering if I actually drafted well or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any ways to do this on the computer? All I really want is the ability to be able to draft and then play against my opponents without having to pay every time; I don't really care if they are human or not, but I'd prefer it if they were actually decent at the game if they are bots. I also don't care about the creating a virtual collection as I have all the pictures of cards I could possibly want &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot;&gt;on this cool little website.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is Magic Online, but it's my understanding that it is far from free, so unless somebody knows of a way I can draft as many times as I want on MTGO without ever paying a dime, it does not meet my requirements. Am I doomed to never being able to get any experience similar to MTGO without shelling out a decent amount of money every time I want to play? Or is there some way to practice realistic drafts complete with swiss rounds online without paying a continual monetary upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2021-12-03T08:15:10.110" Title="Where can I practice MTG draft online and actually play against my opponents for free?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|online|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-04-30T22:43:02.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicworkstation.com/&quot;&gt;Magic Workstation&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;It works well and you always find player of different levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2676" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T22:43:02.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2012-04-30T22:45:25.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pretty much answered this question already. While I haven't heard of 4-pack 30 card sealed yet,I would say this is the format that is the most dependent on luck. A single bomb in a 30 card deck has a much larger impact than in a 40 card deck, for 2 reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) With 4 packs, opponents have a lower chance to equalize a single bomb of yours with at least 2 solid rares of their own, simply because they only get 4 rares instead of 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Assuming the average game runs for at most 15 turns, you get to see 22 cards of your deck, ignoring cantrips and library/graveyard manipulation: That is ~75% of a 30-card deck, and only ~55% of a 40-card deck. So you have a chance of up to 75% vs. 55% to draw your bomb in a game. Or stated differently, to get your bomb with a 50% chance in any given game, you need to draw only 15 vs. 20 cards, again ignoring library/graveyard shenanigans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this applies to every participant, so it all averages out in the long run, and it comes down to skill again. But in the 4-pack format, I would expect the standard deviation in deck strength to be significantly higher than for 6 packs, or, to answer your question, &lt;strong&gt;the luck factor is highest in the 4-pack, 30-card deck sealed format.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-04-30T22:59:14.403" LastActivityDate="2012-04-30T22:59:14.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-04-30T23:54:55.653" Score="18" ViewCount="4537" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Forbidden Island, if a player (not pilot or diver) is stranded on a tile with all surrounding tiles sunk, is the game lost or can he be rescued?  Can he give away his treasure to a pilot or diver such that other players win but he (personally) dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2803" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T06:11:46.927" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:31:12.373" Title="Stranded on a tile in Forbidden Island" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7265" CreationDate="2012-05-01T00:14:45.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's rather self-evident that 6-pack 40-card sealed, has less of a luck component than 4-pack 30 card sealed. As mentioned by @Hackworth, you're much more likely to see a rare bomb in a 30-card pack than a 40-card one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's definitely going to be hard to judge, but I wouldn't overestimate the gulf in “luck” between 6-pack sealed and draft. There are some considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Certainly sealed and draft require slightly different skill sets. A good drafter might not be a good sealed deck builder and vice-versa. Yes, there's a lot of overlap in knowing how to choose good cards and build a deck, but a good drafter will know how to signal and read signals when drafting, and a good sealed deck builder will know how to adjust his deck between games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider that a sealed deck pool is twice as big as draft. Each player is passing around three packs compared to getting six packs to build a sealed deck. Assuming you're reading signals perfectly, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to get “better” card pool in 2 out of 5 colours from three packs than just a random selection of 5 colours in six packs, but I believe this depends on the sets you're drafting. But, if the number of synergies in commons is large, or the depth of card quality in the set is relatively large, it's conceiveable to be just as likely or more likely to be able to build a competitive deck with any random six packs than it is to draft your best from three.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't underestimate the ability to tune between games. It's far more likely to swap out an entire colour — or even two — in sealed, or to change the entire deck archetype (say from aggro to aggro-control) than it is in draft. So if you realize after the first game you've run into a bad matchup, you might be able to change your deck from paper to rock and beat the scissors you encountered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, all Magic games of course have some element of luck. The effect of luck can be mitigated through skill in deck building, card selection, adaptation between games, and knowing when to mulligan. My intuition and experience leads me to believe that 3 pack drafting &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have a &lt;em&gt;very slight&lt;/em&gt; edge in mitigating the luck factor, but the difference between that and 6-pack 40-card deck sealed is really hard to judge and might not even be evident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very best sealed deck players might be just as good at mitigating the luck as the very best drafters. I've looked for sites with statistics on player win percentages but haven't found any yet…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T00:14:45.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7270" CreationDate="2012-05-01T08:28:09.477" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player is stranded on a lone island piece, then they can still be moved using a Helicopter Lift card.&lt;/strong&gt; Note these can be played by anyone, on anyone's turn, to fly a stranded player to safety (e.g. to Fool's Landing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one has a Helicopter Lift card by the time the island piece needs to be removed from the board, then the player drowns (and everyone loses).  On page 7 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamewright.com/gamewright/pdfs/Rules/ForbiddenIslandTM-RULES.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Pawns on Flooded Tiles&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a pawn is on a tile that must be removed, it must immediately &quot;swim&quot; to an adjacent tile (up, down, left, right) that is still part of the island (even flooded). If a pawn is on a tile that is removed and cannot move to an adjacent tile, it sinks into the abyss and everyone loses the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exception: The Diver may swim to the nearest tile. The Explorer may swim diagonally. the Pilot may fly to any tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One special case to note is if the tile has to be removed &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you have a helicopter card.  In this case you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; save the sinking player as clarified by Matt Leacock in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5017773#5017773&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however that you may not use a Sandbags card for this purpose, as specified in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: You cannot play a Sandbag card to save a flooded tile once you've revealed the matching Flood card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that all players win or lose together, so if one player drowns but the others survive then it still counts as a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="2330" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T14:31:12.373" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T14:31:12.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7270" CreationDate="2012-05-01T10:20:21.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I agree with tttppp's answer - assuming he is saying that you can't use a Helicopter Lift in response to a tile sinking.  The rules for special action cards state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These cards are taken into your hand and can be played at  any time —&#xA;  even on another player’s turn. Playing a Special Action  card does not&#xA;  require an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a specific rule that says you can't use your Sandbag cards reactively to a Flood, but I don't think that implies that Helicopter cards can't be used reactively: quite the reverse if anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that I agree with the other answers.  You can't win Forbidden Island if any member of your team dies, but there are normally ways out of a tight spot... at least until the waters rise to the point of no return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T10:20:21.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7323" CreationDate="2012-05-01T15:43:06.387" Score="7" ViewCount="1195" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the advanced version of the rules for the Flash Point board game, there are Hot Spots which cause Flare-ups when targeted in the Advance Fire roll.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;How are the players supposed to get rid of a hot spot?&lt;/strong&gt; I haven't found a specific mention of it in the rules, so I just assumed it is removed when the fire and smoke in the given square are completely extinguished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have checked the official web, but the rule explanations there are only available for the Family/casual difficulty setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T12:47:07.157" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:12:34.173" Title="How can Hot Spots be cleared?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7261" CreationDate="2012-05-01T19:15:58.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To provide a different perspective on thesunneversets' answer: the most important concept in cube drafting isn't power level, it's &lt;strong&gt;synergy&lt;/strong&gt;.  It's easy to look at your deck after you've drafted - or while you're drafting - and say 'this is chock-full of great cards, it should be awesome.'  The problem is that &lt;em&gt;everyone's&lt;/em&gt; deck is chock-full of great cards; to put yourself above the pack, you need to have more than just great cards.  And that's where synergy comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to provide a full list (or even a reasonable partial list) of the synergies in the MTGO cube just because there are so many there; instead, just look for potential little synergies and combos when you're drafting.  Already snagged Channel?  Keep an eye out for high-cost artifacts and colorless cards that you can run out in the first few turns - surprisingly few decks can beat a turn-2 Ulamog or Karn.  Picked up Recurring Nightmare?  Maybe you want that Myr Battlesphere a little more; maybe Entomb or Buried Alive or even just Careful Consideration bump a bit higher up your pick order.  These sorts of synergies are what you want to be looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy extends to your first few picks, too - there you want to keep an eye out for cards that can synergize with a number of different cards.  I'd cheerfully pick Survival of the Fittest over many other cards in the format, for instance, simply because I know I'm likely to pick something up to go with it: maybe it'll be Vengevine for a green aggro deck (and boo on Wizards for skipping Basking Rootwalla!); maybe it'll be Recurring Nightmare or just Animate Dead for a reanimator deck; maybe it'll even be Myr Battlesphere and Goblin Welder for different sorts of reanimator shenanigans.  Maybe it'll just be a collections of walls, Acidic Slime and its kin, and Birthing Pod up to Elesh Norn for a toolbox-style deck.  But any way it shakes out, I've got good chances of finding &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; that'll work with Survival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as specific card advice, there are a few things that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifact acceleration is sparse, and key for the high-end control and board control decks - maybe even moreso than plain fixing is.  Early on cards like Prismatic Lens were being overlooked and you even had a reasonable chance of tabling them, but at this point they've moved much higher up peoples' pick orders and need (and deserve) to be picked highly: I've gladly first-picked Grim Monolith - and then used it to cast a turn-3 Grave Titan in multiple games.  The non-accelerating mana fixing (duals, fetchlands, etc.) is important especially for many-color decks, but I've tried to avoid splashing beyond 2 as much as feasible, so it's been less crucial for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similarly, being able to delay color commitment for a bit is a useful thing - cards like Wurmcoil Engine and Myr Battlesphere are high picks in part on raw power, but even more because they're universally applicable, and I'd gladly snag either with my first few picks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifact removal has some value, but most people leave enchantment removal (unless it's something universally versatile like Acidic Slime) in their boards, and many decks don't even have access to that sort of effect.  Because of this (and of course the general power level of the creatures), the control enchantments - Control Magic and Treachery - are even more powerful than they might appear at first glance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The red deck is strong and it is the clock of the format, but it doesn't seem like quite the beast that people are making it out to be.  If one person is drafting it then they get &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the goods, but there isn't enough redundancy in the MTGO cube for it to comfortably support multiple drafters; if you don't have Goblin Guide or Keldon Marauders, for instance, then you probably won't be nearly fast enough to keep up with the accelerated high-end decks.  Mind you, I have a mild allergy to red aggro so I can't speak from the other side of the table, but in the few drafts I've played against it I've had quite a bit of success - it's something you have to keep in mind and it does force a reasonable curve, but it's not something to actively fear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-05-01T19:15:58.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7282" CreationDate="2012-05-02T06:17:32.667" Score="6" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the current round, I have no resources but have placed 1 meeple on a card and the rest on wood. I roll the die and get a few wood resources which can cover the cost of the card. Am I allowed to use the resources gained in the current turn to buy the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T09:43:10.303" Title="In Stone Age, can I use the resources gained on a turn to pay for the cards?" Tags="|stone-age|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2012-05-02T07:08:04.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course you can. The only &quot;problem&quot; is that you risk not getting the resources you need and then you won't be able to pay for the card and thus you may waste that worker's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say that good Stone Age play doesn't involve such risk-taking as long as it's realistic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T07:08:04.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2012-05-02T07:17:54.633" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't. When you buy a card, this is how it happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You buy the card.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) You do whatever there is to be done on top of the card.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3) You use it at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't afford the card &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt;, you can't roll the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T07:17:54.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7281" CreationDate="2012-05-02T09:43:10.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can.  From p5 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The start player begins. He uses all his placed people figures. Only&#xA;  then does the next player, in clockwise order, use his people. &lt;strong&gt;The&#xA;  order a player chooses to use his people is completely up to him.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on p6, explaining how to resolve a people figure on a civilisation card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the player cannot or does not want to pay the required resources, he takes back his people figure and leaves the card on the game&#xA;  board.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.  You can certainly wait to see what resources you get from other people before turning your attention to the civilisation card. And you don't even &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to buy the card, even if you have by that point obtained the resources to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T09:43:10.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7286" CreationDate="2012-05-02T12:32:07.283" Score="12" ViewCount="2747" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Digital/MagicOnlineTourn.aspx?x=mtg/digital/magiconline/tourn/3753862&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;recent results of Pauper daily events in Magic Online&lt;/a&gt;, I noticed that some of the Infect decks are using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Grant&quot;&gt;Land Grant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the life of me, I can't figure out what this card is doing in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't accelerate your mana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't find lands other than Forests&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have to reveal your hand to use it (or pay 1G, but I'm pretty sure that no one ever does that)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it's functionally identical to just having another Forest in your deck, except with additional downside. So why are they playing it? Pauper is a very competitive format on MTGO, so I don't expect people to put cards in their deck for no good reason... but I can't figure out what the reason is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:35:42.917" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:35:42.917" Title="Why play Land Grant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7285" CreationDate="2012-05-02T12:55:21.707" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card has a lot of uses, similarly to fetch lands and cantrip spells. Generally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It lets you play less actual lands (like in 1-land Belcher Decks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It lets you find the right land (when you are using dual lands).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a free way to shuffle your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a free way to increase storm count.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It filters your deck making it slightly smaller. By using free cantrips&#xA;like Land Grant and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233056&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt; you make your deck virtually&#xA;smaller, thus increasing the chances of all the other cards showing up &#xA;during a match.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In this particular case, knowing how infect decks work in Pauper, I would say it's basically reason #5 (deck thinning).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T14:33:32.303" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T14:33:32.303" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7285" CreationDate="2012-05-02T14:04:07.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deck thinning+tutoring alone would be considered by many to be a useful effect. A card with an even more useless effect, &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Gather_Your_Mind&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gather Your Mind&lt;/a&gt; was once a very popular thinner in YGO TCG. I don't think the revealing effect is surprising. It's par for the course in Magic (in any card game, in fact, now that I think of it) when something relies on presence or absence of something in the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2593" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T19:51:24.577" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T19:51:24.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7285" CreationDate="2012-05-02T14:51:10.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing &quot;functionally identical&quot; about a card which puts a forest into play and a card which puts a forest into play and removes a card from your deck.  q.v. Street Wraith, Urza's Bauble, Mishra's Bauble, Gitaxian Probe; all cards which have a very minor upside (if any!) but which allow you to play a deck that's functionally less than 60 cards big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel a 56-card deck has a significant competitive advantage over a 60-card deck then, no, you probably won't understand why anyone would play Land Grant over a basic forest.  But let's notice that the 40- and 60-card minimum deck sizes in various Magic formats are not just arbitrary!  They exist to make deck construction suitably challenging.  But almost every rule in Magic can be broken somehow, and Land Grant and friends effectively break the minimum deck size rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's only a small competitive advantage in drawing from a library that contains 9 lands instead of 10.  But every little helps, especially in a deck like Infect that basically only wants to draw one or two lands at most, and then as much aggressive business as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-05-02T15:22:14.220" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T15:22:14.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-02T18:14:13.040" Score="6" ViewCount="3791" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy a booster box to hold some office drafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember booster packs as having 15 cards per pack, which is in line with what &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Booster_pack&quot;&gt;Wikipedia says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starting with the Shards of Alara block, booster packs for both Core Sets and Expansions began to contain 1 land, 10 commons, 3 uncommons, either 1 rare (7/8 chance) or 1 mythic rare (1/8 chance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004VJBODI&quot;&gt;Amazon page for the Core M12 Sealed Booster Box&lt;/a&gt; says that there are &quot;10 Cards/Pack&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did something change, or is the Amazon page wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="142" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T18:22:59.040" Title="How many cards per booster pack in the Core M12 Sealed Booster Box?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7289" CreationDate="2012-05-02T18:22:59.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably an error, as M12 only had 15 card booster packs (as can be seen in any online store catalog like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magiccardmarket.eu/?mainPage=showSearchResult&amp;amp;searchFor=2012&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;). As far as I could find, the last core set to have smaller boosters was M11 with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magiccardmarket.eu/Magic_2011_Six_card_Booster.c2p253815.prod&quot;&gt;6-card packs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-05-02T18:22:59.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2012-05-03T00:08:35.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One really cool way to learn chess solo is &quot;Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess&quot;. It's and older book, but if you can find it I believe you'll find the effort worthwhile. It starts with mate in one problems and progresses to mate in 3, using a &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2812" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T00:08:35.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-05-03T10:20:19.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Netdraft is free. It is unfortunately a bit of a hassle to set it all up (find opponents via mIRC, opening your firewall...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netdraft.wikispaces.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://netdraft.wikispaces.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T10:20:19.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2012-05-03T12:16:14.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealer will always get the advantage of being able to put pressure on the big blind, by possibly raising, before the big blind has any play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2813" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T12:16:14.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7300" CreationDate="2012-05-03T17:19:01.647" Score="4" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;For fun we picked up a booster box of multi-set repacks at our LGS (really cheap). Our intention was drafting, but we found that since they are multi-set the cards lack the synergies when drafting from a single block, plus the odds of getting to of the same card are close to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to drafting, so curious if there is a better format to play with multi-set repacks? Maybe just constructed (6 boosters to build a deck from)? Maybe a specific variation of drafting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T21:20:12.117" Title="Suitable drafting rules for multi-set repacks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7298" CreationDate="2012-05-03T20:40:27.127" Score="12" ViewCount="27691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing myself with two Avacyn Restored decks from a 6-booster sealed prerelease tournament, and wonder whether a 6/4 creature with trample blocked by a 4/1 creature would still allow damage through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:39:47.490" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T02:08:50.013" Title="Does trample damage hurt players even if the creature dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7296" CreationDate="2012-05-03T20:48:14.997" Score="23" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Short Answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's what trample does - any damage beyond lethal can be assigned to the player or planeswalker the trampling creature is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long Answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat damage is all dealt simultaneously (in two steps, the first of which is exclusive to creatures which have First Strike or Double Strike) - assuming the attacker and blocker both do not have First strike or Double strike, the four damage from the blocking 4/1 is dealt to the 6/4 trampler at the same time that the 6/4 with Trample deals one to the blocker and five to that creature's controller (assuming there are no other blocking creatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you are at five or less life, and have a 4/1 without First Strike or Double Strike blocking a 6/4 with Trample, lethal damage will be assigned to you (and dealt, unless it is prevented somehow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your 4/1 blocker &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have First Strike or Double Strike (and the 6/4 Trample does not), your blocker's combat damage will be dealt in a combat damage step earlier than the 6/4, and if the 6/4 is dealt lethal damage (which it would be, assuming no combat tricks), the 6/4 would be destroyed and would not be present for the second combat damage step, so you would avoid damage altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the following from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the 5/1 comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;703.4k&lt;/strong&gt; Immediately after combat damage has been assigned during the combat damage step, all combat damage is dealt simultaneously. See rule 510.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.5.&lt;/strong&gt; If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T19:29:54.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2012-05-03T21:05:27.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a really old game system called &lt;strong&gt;Toying With Destruction&lt;/strong&gt; by &lt;em&gt;Guardians of Order&lt;/em&gt; (publishers of Big Eyes Small Mouth and the Tri-Stat system).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system let you create stats for any type of toy at all, from a mech to a fire truck to a teddy bear. It had formulas to stat up all of these, and supported melee weapons, ranged weapons, movement, flight, ramming attacks, mounts/transports, and more. I believe it required a ruler and some D10's. It was simple but fun and very versatile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly this was only published as a stapled pack of paper, and was out of print a long time ago, and Guardians of Order closed its doors in 2006. Here's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990203043338/http://www.guardiansorder.on.ca/gootwd.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;archive of the game info&lt;/a&gt;, and another &lt;a href=&quot;http://theminiaturespage.com/rules/mis/destruction.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page with information and a cover picture&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2816" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T21:05:27.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7295" CreationDate="2012-05-03T21:20:12.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drafting with multi packs or with packs from all different blocks works just fine you just need to aim for certain archtypes (control, aggro, ect) as opposed to specific strategies (such as human tribal) and you'll have more success. In my experience the only rule you really need to have outside of regular draft rules is to ban the unsets. Sealed also works well. Same advice (archtype over specific strategy) applies though you have a bit more leeway since you can see everything you have from the get go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastActivityDate="2012-05-03T21:20:12.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7302" CreationDate="2012-05-04T04:00:39.353" Score="24" ViewCount="5174" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend was playing a very slim hand; two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drew an &lt;code&gt;Income Tax&lt;/code&gt; curse, and laid my best card, worth 600 gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He refused to play along...his excuse: &quot;I have two &lt;code&gt;Go Up a Level&lt;/code&gt; cards, I don't have to show or pay anything&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we allowed to force his hand, so to speak, and prove to us that he's &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt; exonerated from this play? &lt;strong&gt;Is he&lt;/strong&gt; truly exonerated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T05:45:53.590" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T05:45:53.590" Title="Income Tax Audit" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7301" CreationDate="2012-05-04T05:10:13.333" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards in hand cannot be items. They are only cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Income Tax rules text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard one item of your choice. Every other player must now discard an item, or items, totaling at least as much value as the item you discarded. If they don't have enough to pay the full tax, they must discard all their items and lose a level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/#cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. If you have to lose Items, do you lose the ones from your hand, or just those on the table?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Always, always, only those on the table. While cards are in your hand, they're not carried Items yet. If you are meant to lose cards from your hand, this will be specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Hand&lt;/strong&gt;: Cards in your hand are not in play. They don't help you, but they can't be taken away except by cards that specifically affect &amp;quot;your hand.&amp;quot; At the end of your turn, you may have no more than five cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An item card in your hand does not count until you play it; at that point it is &amp;quot;carried.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-04T05:10:13.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7163" CreationDate="2012-05-04T17:37:54.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To learn a game like chess, the very best is to have a teacher, friends to play, and maybe a chess club to play at.  a very good chess teacher can be $75/hour however, registering for USCF membership is $50/year to play rated chess games at a chess club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll stick more to books, software, and websites, since that is what I have more experience with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, I'm trying to study chess myself and these articles by Dan Heisman are the best I've found on the subject.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://danheisman.home.comcast.net/~danheisman/Events_Books/General_Book_Guide.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dan Heisman's General Book Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chesscafe.com/text/heisman06.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chess Books and Prerequisites&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chesscafe.com/text/heisman19.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;An Improvement Plan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently my study plan would be (as an advanced beginner)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Puzzles&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1579125549&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chess: 5334 Problems, Combinations, and Games&lt;/a&gt; (book)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess Tactics for Beginners (software)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessproblems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ChessProblems.com&lt;/a&gt; (website)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theory&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0071419756&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Teach Yourself Chess&lt;/a&gt; (book)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chessmentor.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chess Mentor&lt;/a&gt; (software)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chessmagnetschool.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chess Magnet School&lt;/a&gt; (website)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;handheld chess computer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chessmaster.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ChessMaster&lt;/a&gt; (software)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://chessclub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Internet Chess Club&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://freechess.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Free Internet Chess Server&lt;/a&gt; (internet services)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2819" LastEditorUserId="2819" LastEditDate="2013-03-30T23:08:37.323" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T23:08:37.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6762" CreationDate="2012-05-05T02:23:13.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for board game mechanics--what they're called and how they work--&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/764516/game-mechanics-names&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BoardGameGeek page&lt;/a&gt; links to two solid lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2822" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-05T02:23:13.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-05T12:33:17.037" Score="8" ViewCount="14815" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the standard &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/domino/line/draw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Draw Dominoes&lt;/a&gt;, is the double-blank domino, if in hand at the end of a round, counted as zero or 14 points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knpLj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/knpLj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2792" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T14:12:00.897" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T14:12:00.897" Title="Value of the double-blank domino?" Tags="|dominoes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7305" CreationDate="2012-05-05T14:48:09.053" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nearly &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.domino-games.com/domino-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all variations&lt;/a&gt; of Dominos have you count the number of pips on dominos left in a losing player's hand. Since the double blank has zero pips, it is worth zero points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw Dominos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring&lt;/strong&gt; - When a hand ends, the player with the lightest hand (i.e. the fewest number of dots on their dominoes) wins the number of sum total of points in all of his opponents hands (minus the points in his own hand, if any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-10-13T11:32:54.203" LastActivityDate="2021-10-13T11:32:54.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7314" CreationDate="2012-05-07T00:38:10.610" Score="13" ViewCount="49344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a 4/4 creature with trample. I attack, and my opponent blocks with a...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209000&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;0/1 creature that is indestructible&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: Does my 4/4 trampler's extra 3 damage carry over even though the blocking creature wasn't dealt lethal damage? Does the situation change if my 4/4 trampler also has infect?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247528&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0/1 Creature that cannot be dealt damage:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Can I even deal lethal damage to it?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0/1 Creature with protection from my creature's color:&lt;/strong&gt; Can I deal damage to it at all?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does the damage carry over to my opponent? I made all of these hypothetical creatures 0/1 for simplicity's sake. I know the creatures actually linked to are slightly different, but I believe this will simplify the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T22:52:45.067" LastActivityDate="2021-09-09T04:09:16.660" Title="How does trample interact with damage prevention effects and indestructible blockers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7311" CreationDate="2012-05-07T00:43:52.470" Score="17" ViewCount="8254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have 2 creatures enchanted with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226905&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt; or 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39890&quot;&gt;Taunting Elves&lt;/a&gt; attacking: Does my opponent get to choose which of their creatures blocks each one or do I? What if one of those attacking creatures also has flying but the other does not? If one of my opponent's creatures can block multiple creatures, must they block both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T01:24:05.413" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T01:24:05.413" Title="If I attack with 2 creatures that both have &quot;All creatures able to block this creature do so&quot;, how are blockers determined?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7313" CreationDate="2012-05-07T00:54:13.320" Score="37" ViewCount="73851" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have the base &lt;em&gt;Dominion&lt;/em&gt; set along with the &lt;strong&gt;Alchemy&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Prosperity&lt;/strong&gt; expansions. The rules cover 2-4 players, but elsewhere it implies that up to 6 players are allowed with expansions. Nowhere we could find does it explain if 5 or 6 players have a different setup or end game conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you need a different setup for 5 - 6 players in Dominion? I get the impression that adding the &lt;strong&gt;Colony&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Platinum&lt;/strong&gt; is required, but not sure if the starting cards or end conditions change. Or is it a different expansion that allows for 5 - 6 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am open to &quot;official rules&quot; and &quot;recommended rules.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:03:45.380" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T01:03:45.380" Title="Setup for more than 4 players in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|dominion-alchemy|game-setup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7307" CreationDate="2012-05-07T01:40:09.140" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After you assign it to the defending player, after assigning lethal damage to the creatures blocking the attacking creature with trample.&lt;/strong&gt; Lethal damage only considers &lt;strong&gt;toughness&lt;/strong&gt;, it ignores any abilities that would modify the actual damage dealt to the blocking creatures. (i.e. Double damage effects like Furnace of Rath, Damage prevention effects like &lt;strong&gt;protection from [quality]&lt;/strong&gt;, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it might be important to understand what &lt;strong&gt;trample&lt;/strong&gt; does. Trample modifies the rules for how combat damage is assigned. Specifically, it allows trampling creatures to ignore the rule that they can only assign combat damage to the creatures blocking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trample&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.18a Trample is a static ability that modifies the rules for assigning an attacking creature’s combat damage. ... (See rule 510, “Combat Damage Step.”)&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c &lt;strong&gt;A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it&lt;/strong&gt;. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trample and the Combat Damage Step, both describe how to calculate &lt;strong&gt;lethal damage&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[510.1c | 702.18b] ... When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lethal Damage&lt;/strong&gt; - An amount of damage greater than or equal to a creature’s toughness. See rules 119.6, 510.1, and 704.5g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deathtouch&lt;/strong&gt; is the only ability that modifies what &lt;strong&gt;lethal damage&lt;/strong&gt; is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.2b Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature’s toughness. See rules 510.1c–d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, to answer your question, &lt;strong&gt;Under what circumstances does an attacking creature with trample assign damage to the defending player?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your attacking creature is attacking a player, not a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your attacking creature has additional combat damage that it can assign to the defending player after assigning lethal damage to all creatures blocking it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You choose to actually assign the additional damage to the defending player. (&lt;strong&gt;Trample&lt;/strong&gt; allows this, but it is not mandator to assign additional damage to the defending player instead of the creatures blocking it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The defending player is still in the game. (important for multiplayer, where it might be advantageous to leave the game than allow an opponent's &lt;strong&gt;Lifelink&lt;/strong&gt; creatures to damage you)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4e If combat damage would be assigned to a player who has left the game, that damage isn’t assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T21:57:36.877" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T21:57:36.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7308" CreationDate="2012-05-07T01:45:32.360" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive Rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1c The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must block, or that it must block if some condition is met). &lt;strong&gt;If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of blockers is illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature can't block unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost, even if blocking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&#xA;Example: A player controls one creature that &amp;quot;blocks if able&amp;quot; and another creature with no abilities. An effect states &amp;quot;Creatures can't be blocked except by two or more creatures.&amp;quot; Having only the first creature block violates the restriction. Having neither creature block fulfills the restriction but not the requirement. Having both creatures block the same attacking creature fulfills both the restriction and the requirement, so that's the only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers to your questions, as covered by this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my opponent get to choose which of their creatures blocks each one or do I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing in the Lure ability says that you get to choose. The defender has to follow the maximum number of requirements without disobeying any restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the restrictions on the defenders, barring any additional abilities, is that they may only block one creature. Therefore, the defender must block one of your attackers and may choose which one to block, as that fulfills the maximum number of requirements without disobeying the restriction of only being able to block one creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if one of those attacking creatures also has flying but the other does not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if a defender is unable to block creatures with flying (that is a restriction) that defender must block the one it is able to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of my opponent's creatures can block multiple creatures, must they block both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature is able to block multiple creatures it &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; meet the maximum number of requirements that could be obeyed, therefore it must block both creatures if able. (Unless that blocker is something like an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anurid%20Swarmsnapper&quot;&gt;Anurid Swarmsnapper&lt;/a&gt;… as rule 509.1c states, the defender is not required to pay a cost to increase the number of requirements obeyed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T13:05:44.210" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T13:05:44.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2012-05-07T01:56:58.297" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official rules for 5-6 players in Dominion is outlined in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_306_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion: Intrigue&lt;/a&gt; rulebook, as it requires the extra treasure and Province cards included with that expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set up for 5 or 6 players, combine the Treasure cards from Dominion and Dominion: Intrigue. Use 15 Provinces in the Supply for a 5-player game and 18 Provinces in the Supply for a 6-player game. All other Victory card piles (Estates, Duchies, and Victory Kingdom cards) remain at 12 cards per pile. Use 40 Curse cards for a 5-player game and 50 Curse cards for a 6-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 5 or 6 player game, the game ends at the end of any player’s turn when one of two conditions is met: the Supply pile of Province cards is empty OR any 4 Supply piles are empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using these rules with proxy cards for the extra treasures, Provinces and Curses if you don't have the Intrigue expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T01:56:58.297" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7307" CreationDate="2012-05-07T03:10:45.117" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Damage assignment ignores damage prevention and damage-modifying effects. Just look at toughness, previous damage marked, and deathtouch to figure out how to allocate trample damage (or damage in a group block).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the most relevant bit of comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c ... When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures&#xA;that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, &lt;strong&gt;but not any&#xA;abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s&#xA;actually dealt&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, you only have to assign damage that &lt;em&gt;would be&lt;/em&gt; lethal -- based on the creature's toughness adjusted for any damage already marked on it, or 1 point of deathtouch damage -- without adjusting for other game rules like damage prevention, damage multipliers, or indestructibility. So my 4/4 can trample right over your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fog%20Bank&quot;&gt;Fog Bank&lt;/a&gt; as if it were any other 0/2; the Wall just won't die in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, since there seems to be a bit of confusion about this in the question: protection &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a damage prevention effect. So don't go blocking any &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Excruciator&quot;&gt;Excruciator&lt;/a&gt;s with your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kor%20Firewalker&quot;&gt;Kor Firewalker&lt;/a&gt; if you want him to live.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T13:26:45.087" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T13:26:45.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-05-07T03:33:12.313" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can draft at CCGdecks.com, tappedout.net, or drafts.in, and the free client &lt;a href=&quot;http://github.com/Cockatrice/Cockatrice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cockatrice&lt;/a&gt; is excellent for playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastEditorUserId="344" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T19:48:49.780" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T19:48:49.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7307" CreationDate="2012-05-07T07:41:36.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a complement to the other answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;0/1 creature that is indestructible&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: Does my 4/4 trampler's extra 3 damage carry over even though the blocking creature wasn't dealt lethal damage? Does the situation change if my 4/4 trampler also has infect?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blocking creature has toughness 1 and has accumulated 0 damage so far in the current turn, so lethal damage for this creature is 1. Period. That number is not changed by indestructibility, protection, or any sort of prevention effect; it is also not changed by the presence or absence of infect or any other ability (except perhaps deathtouch). So in this case, yes, the remaining 3 damage tramples over to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may seem paradoxical that &quot;lethal damage&quot; is not actually lethal to the creature (i.e. doesn't kill the creature) in this case, but that's not the damage's fault. You have to think about the phrase &quot;lethal damage&quot; as a technical term that has a meaning slightly different from what you'd get just by putting the meanings of its words together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247528&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0/1 Creature that cannot be dealt damage:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Can I even deal lethal damage to it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't really such a thing as &quot;cannot be dealt damage.&quot; If you look at the Oracle text, it's worded as &quot;Prevent all damage that would be dealt to [creature].&quot; So the same logic from the previous case applies. The creature's toughness is 1, and it has already accumulated 0 damage this turn, so lethal damage is 1. The fact that the damage will be prevented doesn't change that. So again, in this case, the 3 damage would trample over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0/1 Creature with protection from my creature's color:&lt;/strong&gt; Can I deal damage to it at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is exactly the same as the previous case, because one of the effects of protection is &quot;Prevent all damage that would be dealt to [creature] from sources with the given characteristic.&quot; None of the other effects of protection matter here. So again, the 3 damage would trample over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T07:41:36.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5254" CreationDate="2012-05-07T14:34:04.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a great fan of this game, I can tell you that &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the tiles are double-sided. You pick them from a bag, so you can't see anything and you put them in the palm of your had, as described in the rules: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/diBT8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;How to hold tiles in &amp;quot;La Guerre des moutons&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this technique, you can easly hide all the tiles from your opponnents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helped!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T14:34:04.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7320" CreationDate="2012-05-07T15:22:21.120" Score="2" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does pKreoss' Purification spell (which causes Upkeep Spells, Continuous Effects, and Animi to expire) remove Murder of Crows from the table?  If so, at what distance?  Does the cloud have to be entirely within range?  Does the center of the cloud have to be in range?  Does the edge of the cloud have to be in range?  Or does the caster who is upkeeping the cloud have to be in range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T22:54:28.463" Title="Does pKreoss' Purification spell clear out Cloud Effects like Murder of Crows?" Tags="|warmachine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-07T18:47:45.603" Score="12" ViewCount="93111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you resolve a dispute between myself and my girlfriend? She recently won a game with what I think is a double movement (although there's no mention of this in the rule book).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She put one two letters down to make one word, which also scored linked to another letter. But she then added another letter immediately to the left of the finished word, which then extended the second word. I just don't think you can make a second movement like this in scrabble!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iFvEk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My sister placed down &lt;strong&gt;W&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;, the ones that I circled in red. Is she allowed to do that? I told her it was impossible is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you resolve this for me please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2830" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditorDisplayName="user17613" LastEditDate="2018-01-30T08:26:06.390" LastActivityDate="2018-03-15T19:44:30.203" Title="double movement in Scrabble" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7318" CreationDate="2012-05-07T18:58:09.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?11747-Purification-and-AOE-upkeep-spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Murder of Crows is an upkeep spell, so it would be removed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be removed if any part of the Murder of Crows AoE was within range of Purification.  Like with a model, something is within if any part of it is within.  If you used purification to take Arcane Shield off an Iron clad, you would only need to make sure the edge of the Ironclad's base was within the spell's effect.  It would be the same with any other &quot;thing&quot; that was getting dispelled.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2022" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T22:54:28.463" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T22:54:28.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7324" CreationDate="2012-05-07T19:39:33.633" Score="21" ViewCount="60925" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to write a program to manage my library of Magic cards and I am looking for a database file or list of all of the cards that have been released.  I know that the Gathering site is useful, but it limits the number of cards I can return in a search.  I would happily accept a spreadsheet file, database file, or even a text file.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more information contained in the database, the better.  Having associated images would just be fantastic, but at this point I would settle for names and basic stats of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2829" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:04:13.500" Title="Where can I find a database with a list of all magic cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-07-07T11:40:23.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7319" CreationDate="2012-05-07T19:45:48.107" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://scrabblemania.net/Official-Scrabble-Rules&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From the official rules:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All tiles played in any one turn must be placed in one row only across, or one column only down the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you know, it is perfectly fine to score for multiple different words you made on your turn, but only if you made them from tiles played that turn. Since any tiles played on that turn must be in a single row or column, you cannot play two letters in one column and &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; a word, and then &lt;em&gt;finish&lt;/em&gt; it by playing another letter in a different column. If I'm understanding your example properly, then you are correct in that she made an illegal move. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T19:45:48.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7275" CreationDate="2012-05-07T22:21:04.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I haven't found an official answer to this question yet, I played the game some more and it seems to me that it is more in the spirit of the game to leave the hot spot in place, even after putting the flames out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that there can only be a limited number of new hot spots (placed via flare-ups) - 6 for all difficulties except Heroic, where it is 12 - it seemed too easy to just get rid of them quickly.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, when placing additional hot spots at the beginning of the game, they can be placed on open spaces without fires; therefore it seems to make sense for them to remain even after the fire is extinguished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: Neal Tibrewala confirmed in the comments that there really is no way of removing them. (Thanks.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2064" LastEditorUserId="2064" LastEditDate="2012-05-08T07:33:00.653" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T07:33:00.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2012-05-07T23:01:29.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can grab a complete list &lt;a href=&quot;http://webpages.charter.net/jfarnworth/Card%20List.xls&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; it's in .xls too! I have downloaded a copy but it looks to be someone's personal list and might disappear at any time. I don't have the ability to attach a file yet so download it quick!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not what you want then your best bet would be Cockatrice but be aware of breaking the Gatherer ToS. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2022" LastEditorUserId="2022" LastEditDate="2012-05-07T23:07:38.540" LastActivityDate="2012-05-07T23:07:38.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7219" CreationDate="2012-05-08T06:26:14.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a challenge and the recipient must actually fight a ship of equal value in game combat, and if they win, they receive the stated reward.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic1055583_lg.jpg&quot;&gt;All Hands on Deck&lt;/a&gt; (bottom left corner), hand management expansion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Commodore's First Mate:&lt;/strong&gt; Instead of challenging the Commodore, players may challenge the Commodore's First Mate when they land on the Commodore's spot. The First Mate's ship acts like a &lt;strong&gt;Man of War&lt;/strong&gt; card. Player must fight a ship of equal in men and cannons to their own. &lt;strong&gt;If they win they gain 500 bronze, 1 crew &amp;amp; 1 cannon&lt;/strong&gt;, but if they lose normal defeat conditions apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-08T06:26:14.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7329" CreationDate="2012-05-09T00:24:04.427" Score="32" ViewCount="112403" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I topdeck &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entreat%20the%20Angels&quot;&gt;Entreat the Angels&lt;/a&gt; and cast it for its miracle cost of XWW. But my opponent wants to counter it with a CMC-based effect, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellstutter%20Sprite&quot;&gt;Spellstutter Sprite&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Burst&quot;&gt;Spell Burst&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.3. The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.3b When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with {X} in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the&#xA;stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object&#xA;is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I spent 5 mana to cast Entreat the Angels with X=3, what is the CMC of Entreat the Angels on the stack?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I get to double-count the X I spent because the card's base mana cost is XXWWW?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is X &amp;quot;zero&amp;quot; because I'm not actually paying the X in the mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:32:24.010" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T11:26:35.730" Title="What is the converted mana cost of a spell with {X} when cast with the Miracle mechanic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7327" CreationDate="2012-05-09T01:05:05.173" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Isn't that covered by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.9c. An alternative cost doesn't change a spell's mana cost, only what its controller has to pay to cast it. &lt;strong&gt;Spells and abilities that ask for that spell's mana cost still see the original value.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while your Entreat's on the stack, its CMC would be 9 (since CMC is based on the mana cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2012-05-09T01:05:05.173" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7327" CreationDate="2012-05-09T07:11:59.017" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The mana value (formerly &lt;em&gt;Converted Mana Cost/CMC&lt;/em&gt;) is 9.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The XX in the mana cost and the X in the alternative cost are related. In your example, you chose X = 3, so the mana value becomes 3+3+3 = 9. You only pay 3WW, but spells asking for the mana value of an object don't care about what you have actually paid, they only care about what's printed in the upper right corner of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to calculate the mana value:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.1. A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card. (See rule 107.4.) On most cards, these symbols are printed in the upper right corner. Some cards from the Future Sight set have alternate frames in which the mana symbols appear to the left of the illustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.3. The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.3b When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with {X} in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miracle is an alternative cost, and an object's mana value is not affected by its alternative costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;118.9. Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or “You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.” Note that some alternative costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;118.9c An alternative cost doesn’t change a spell’s mana cost, only what its controller has to pay to cast it. Spells and abilities that ask for that spell’s mana cost still see the original value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The X in the alternative costs is the same X as those in the mana costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.3i Normally, all instances of X on an object have the same value at any given time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2023-01-22T11:26:35.730" LastActivityDate="2023-01-22T11:26:35.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7404" CreationDate="2012-05-09T13:06:31.283" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bazooka Joe has the Black Ops special rule that allows him to be given a free order during the command phase.  The Black Ops rule is not listed as a &amp;quot;Shared&amp;quot; rule, so it is not normally given to any solider unit he joins.  Heroes become part of a squad when joined, so they can't independently receive orders anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shared - &amp;quot;If at least one miniature in a unit(including Heroes) has a shared ability, the entire unit is considered to have the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black Ops - &amp;quot;During the command phase, units with the Black Ops ability may be issued an order for free. In addition the unit may be issued an order regardless of its position on the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hero is attached to a unit they are treated as part of that unit.  Any unit he is attached to wouldn't have the Black Ops ability on it's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that Joe loses his Black Ops special ability while he leads a squad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T05:03:47.823" Title="Can Bazooka Joe use Black Ops when attached to a unit?" Tags="|dust-warfare|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4692" CreationDate="2012-05-09T20:31:44.390" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana burn is no longer a part of the game as the other answers point out so well. However, I feel like I have a definitive answer to &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Why was the rule added?&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.threedonkeys.com/blog/archives/113&quot;&gt;episode #4 of his game design podcast&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.threedonkeys.com/blog/archives/category/podcasts&quot;&gt;Games With Garfield&lt;/a&gt; - Richard himself and Skaff Elias comment on the creation of mana burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;transcript from 05:27 to 06:25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SKAFF:&lt;/strong&gt; Mana burn really wasn't even in there in the beginning, for the first couple of years we played the game and it kind of crept in because we didn't want people to just go... We needed a mana pool to make sense out of casting... exactly how a card was cast, to try and formalize that, and then some people who were just trying to be jerks (maybe I was one of them) would just dump all their mana into their mana pool so that, you know, it couldn't be disrupted, cause certain things disrupted it back at the time. And, anyway, to sort of prevent that and to prevent people to ever wanting to do that, mana burn was introduced into the game. The clearing of mana out of the pools, and maybe that wasn't good enough so maybe actually take some damage from it. And then from there it took on a life of its own and actually became part of the play of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Richard Garfield adds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;transcript from 6:26 to 6:47&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RICHARD:&lt;/strong&gt; Certainly, back in the old days there was a point where you could technically, at the start of you turn, just tap all your land and then you'd have all your mana for the whole turn. And the only difference would be that your opponent couldn't tell how much it was, was a pain to keep track of and so forth and so... Mana burn eventually was an answer to that (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to sum up, it seems that &lt;strong&gt;mana burn was created as a game design mechanical fix to avoid memory issues and to avoid some weird situations in the original spell timing rules&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1262" LastEditDate="2012-05-10T11:22:24.920" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T11:22:24.920" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7334" CreationDate="2012-05-10T04:42:37.133" Score="14" ViewCount="2144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing against my son tonight and an issue came up that we disagreed on. We looked in the rules, but that just made things murkier for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attacked with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Chieftain&quot;&gt;Goblin Chieftain&lt;/a&gt; (2/2), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Fireslinger&quot;&gt;Goblin Fireslinger&lt;/a&gt; (1/1) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blisterstick%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Blisterstick Shaman&lt;/a&gt; (2/1). My Goblin Chieftain gave +1/+1 to the other two creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son chose to defend with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elite%20Inquisitor&quot;&gt;Elite Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt; (2/2 with First Strike) and block the Chieftain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is, do my two remaining creatures deal 3 damage to him or 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My son argues that since the Chieftain died, the other two creatures no longer have the +1/+1 effect. I thought that damage in battle was resolved before that would happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2699" LastEditorUserId="3423" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T04:34:11.450" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T04:34:11.450" Title="How much damage do my other Goblins deal if my Goblin Chieftain dies during the first strike step?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7333" CreationDate="2012-05-10T05:30:55.383" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, Goblin Chieftain does not give any kind of counters.  It just modifies the P/T of goblins while it is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, First Strike creates two combat damage steps.  One in which only Elite Inquisitor (and any other potential First Striker) deals it's combat damage.  In your scenario, this will kill the Goblin Chieftain.  In the second combat damage step, non-First Strike creatures deal their damage.  Since the Chieftain is no longer there, they do not get the +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will deal 3 damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.4b/702.7b&lt;/strong&gt; If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike or double strike as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T05:30:55.383" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35570" CreationDate="2012-05-10T07:32:59.383" Score="12" ViewCount="345" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.variantbank.org/&quot;&gt;Diplomacy Variant Bank&lt;/a&gt; contains a huge number of variants on Diplomacy, ranging from completely different maps and powers, to minor tweaks of the rules.  I was searching for a variant that would play well face-to-face, while being shorter than the original and I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.variantbank.org/results/rules/d/diplowinn.htm&quot;&gt;Diplowinn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried Googling for this and didn't come up with much in the way of reviews or game reports.  I want to know whether Diplowinn has any problems compared to the original.  In particular, does this version result in draws more or less frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the description says that stabbing is more attractive in this variant.  Is that the case, and does it consequently feel nastier to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging by the lack of references on the internet I'm not too expectant of a good answer, and so I'll endeavour to play this variant the next time I get a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2017-06-12T07:31:38.013" Title="Does the Diplowinn variant play similarly to the original Diplomacy?" Tags="|house-rules|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2012-05-10T11:40:49.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also try &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.chessgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ChessGames.com&lt;/a&gt;. There is at least one API for accessing the data: &lt;a href=&quot;https://metacpan.org/module/Chess::Games::DotCom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Chess::Games::DotCom&lt;/code&gt; on metacapn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2835" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T16:51:43.500" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T16:51:43.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7363" CreationDate="2012-05-10T19:19:09.063" Score="11" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . a 0 4 8 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 5 6 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 9 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 3 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent played this sequence. I was sure that I could play &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; in the game, but it finished horribly. What should I play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-05-11T03:38:10.483" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T20:25:26.513" Title="Corner variation which is not in Josekipedia" Tags="|go|joseki|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7309" CreationDate="2012-05-10T19:53:22.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither Colony nor Platinum are required for 5-6 player. (Neither of them are in Intrigue, either.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Intrigue Rules PDF:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The following are rules for a single game accommodating 5 or 6 players. Please note&#xA;  that there will be increased downtime with 5 or 6 players, so this is not recommended&#xA;  for new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To set up for 5 or 6 players, combine the Treasure cards from Dominion and Dominion:&#xA;  Intrigue. Use 15 Provinces in the Supply for a 5-player game and 18 Provinces in the&#xA;  Supply for a 6-player game. All other Victory card piles (Estates, Duchies, and Victory&#xA;  Kingdom cards) remain at 12 cards per pile. Use 40 Curse cards for a 5-player game and&#xA;  50 Curse cards for a 6-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a 5 or 6 player game, the game ends at the end of any player’s turn when one of two&#xA;  conditions is met: the Supply pile of Province cards is empty OR any 4 Supply piles are&#xA;  empty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The designer's advice for 7-8 players is to run two separate tables of 3-4p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full intrigue rules are available at&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/45425/dominion-intrigue-rules-english-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/45425/dominion-intrigue-rules-english-pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-05-10T19:53:22.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7337" CreationDate="2012-05-10T19:56:51.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in Josekipedia, just with a different move order. (I don't know how to link to a specific josekipedia variation, but taking the moves as numbered in your question and reordering 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, &lt;strong&gt;10&lt;/strong&gt;, you can see your marked stone as a bad move, with 2 ways to punish. A hane at P17 is standard for a 3-3 invasion without an approach stone, but you cannot ignore white's stone at R14!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it can feel too easy on the corner, P16 is joseki.&#xA;White gets a big corner, but black has a nice wall and strong influence on the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 9 . 3 1 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 4 X 2 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 8 6 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, as in @Stéphane's answer, Black insists on P17 it is equivalent to the above (see below), except black's move by pushing prematurely is an example of aji keshi (in fact, almost identical to the illustrative example of aji keshi on &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?AjiKeshi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt;). If Black pushes down instead of connecting then white can cut at P16. Of course, if white &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have the ladder than she can cut at P16 immediately instead of the O17 clamp, which is much more painful for black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 4 . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 2 1 O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B.: White usually plays 3 (Q17) in my diagram before 5 (S16) just in case black brashly makes the P17 mistake. However, if black already had a partial enclosure with a stone at 017 then S16 would first is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 7 . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . 1 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X 2 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 6 4 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . , . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here white is alive though the corner is much smaller and doesn't extend as well into the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black also has the option of blocking on the top if White chooses to hane underneath first. The variation below is from Josekipedia and listed as &quot;even&quot;, though no source is cited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 9 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 8 7 4 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . 0 . 2 O 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X X 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 6 O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would wonder here why Black would initially block the right side and then (seemingly inconsistently) switch to blocking on the top. Black should not do so without a reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T17:03:26.600" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T17:03:26.600" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7337" CreationDate="2012-05-10T19:57:06.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's notice that &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt; in the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . a 0 4 8 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . b 1 5 6 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 9 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 3 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;reverts to a well known joseki where 10 is played before 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; possible for Black to play &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;, answering the cross-cut with 3 (see below), but he needs a ladder to answer 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 3 1 O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 2 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 5 . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O 4 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If Black has the ladder…&lt;/em&gt; Since the previous position (at move 3) is very advantageous for Black, white will most probably clamp instead of cutting (as proposed by shujaa). In this case black can consider playing like this, and add a shape fixing move of his choice (N16 or O15), depending on the surroundings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1 8 at 1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 4 . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . 5 2 1 O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . 3 6 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 7 . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or he might prefer to stick with the standard joseki, playing &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If the ladder is favorable to white…&lt;/em&gt; then &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; is not an option at all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last Remark: In this joseki variation, instead of &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt;, N16 could also be a good (and safe) alternative, and there is also O17 (but it requires the same ladder). Tennuki has to be strongly motivated, because white playing &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt; is huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2077" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T18:06:55.427" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T18:06:55.427" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7360" CreationDate="2012-05-11T11:21:30.973" Score="8" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently gotten into playing Scrabble and I was wondering, what's the deal with Scrabble programs? I come from the world of computer chess where chess engines are distributed independently from the user interface (UI). The engines communicate with the UI with one of two standards: the Chess Engine Communication Protocol, aka. the XBoard protocol, or the Universal Chess Interface, UCI. Now I'm wondering if Scrabble has anything like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Programming a simple Scrabble bot would seem like a funny exercise, but I'd rather not delve into the boring UI creation. So are there any free programs that would just display a game of Scrabble but would accept the commands from and relay them to an external program? The program should also enable the user to play against an engine. Maybe I'm using the wrong keywords or something, but Google doesn't seem to give me anything relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2838" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T15:01:50.430" Title="Computer Scrabble UI &amp; communication protocol?" Tags="|scrabble|computers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7341" CreationDate="2012-05-11T11:32:40.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;WordBiz is a simple and efficient Scrabble playing program with a reasonnably big community.&#xA;See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.isc.ro/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I.S.C.&lt;/a&gt; website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2676" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T11:32:40.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7344" CreationDate="2012-05-11T15:51:01.597" Score="6" ViewCount="10347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say that both  my opponent and I both have a 1/1 white flying spirit. Now lets say I declare my spirit as an attacker, and my opponent declares their spirit as a blocker.  After they declare their spirit as a blocker I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220265&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt;, which causes their spirit to lose all abilities and become a 1/1 blue frog until end of turn.  What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T04:38:21.247" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T04:38:21.247" Title="What happens if a blocking creature with flying loses flying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7343" CreationDate="2012-05-11T15:56:00.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your creature is still blocked. The blue frog will still deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast Turn to Frog after attackers are declared, but before blockers are declared, your spirit can't be blocked by that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1b The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can't block, or that it can't block unless some condition is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of blockers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A restriction may be created by an evasion ability (a static ability an attacking creature has that restricts what can block it). &lt;strong&gt;If an attacking creature gains or loses an evasion ability after a legal block has been declared, it doesn't affect that block.&lt;/strong&gt; Different evasion abilities are cumulative.&#xA;Example: An attacking creature with flying and shadow can't be blocked by a creature with flying but without shadow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The check for evasion ability blocking restrictions is made before blockers are declared, but is not made again. If the attacker gains or loses evasion abilities it doesn't matter. It's not explicitly mentioned in that rule, but it logically follows that if the defender gains or loses the ability to block flying creatures after the block is declared, it doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T16:04:20.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-11T17:45:17.707" Score="5" ViewCount="39344" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm teaching Magic: The Gathering to a new player, one of the things I usually give them early on is a run down of each of the different colors and its pros and cons. I usually try to come up with 2 sentences and no more than 3 example cards to describe the color. Normally, I use descriptions that are something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Red:&lt;/strong&gt; Uses the power of fire to damage life totals, creatures, and&#xA;destroy lands/artifacts. Has trouble dealing with enchantments,&#xA;flying, and tricky spells. Examples: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shatter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demolish&quot;&gt;Demolish&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Black:&lt;/strong&gt; Uses the power of death and evil to profit from other misery&#xA;with powerful removal, creatures, discard spells, and detrimental&#xA;enchantments. Has trouble dealing with enchantments, vulnerable to&#xA;removal, and has slightly weaker creatures. Examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Rot&quot;&gt;Mind Rot&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sorin's Thirst&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue:&lt;/strong&gt; Uses the power of the mind to manipulate the field of battle by&#xA;drawing cards, countering spells, messing with opponents' plans in&#xA;general, and playing flying creatures. Has the weakest creatures in&#xA;the game, even though it has many of the best flying creatures.&#xA;Examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divination&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkslick%20Drake&quot;&gt;Darkslick Drake&lt;/a&gt; (or any other good&#xA;flying creature)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green:&lt;/strong&gt; Uses the power of nature to grow and expand until its massive&#xA;creatures are too much for opponents to handle. Good at dealing with&#xA;artifacts/enchantments, and has strongest creatures in the game, but&#xA;also has worst flying creatures and very little removal. Examples:&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leatherback%20Baloth&quot;&gt;Leatherback Baloth&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White:&lt;/strong&gt; Uses the power of life and justice to play powerful creatures,&#xA;life-gain spells, sweeper spells, small creatures, and good defenses.&#xA;Second best in flying and creatures overall, but weak against ??????&#xA;Examples: ?????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these are rough examples that could all use a bit of polishing, I definitely feel like my understanding and explanation of white looks the weakest. Currently, I look at white as the 'all-around color' with fewer strengths and weaknesses than the others, but I'm having trouble characterizing it in more specific ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you explain the pros and cons of the color white to newcomers to MTG? What example cards and general characteristics of white decks would you include? What might you add to my other explanations to make them more helpful and accurate, but still keep them clean and concise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:27:21.577" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T08:36:32.793" Title="How to describe the strengths and weaknesses of white to a new mtg player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-05-11T18:40:00.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would not associated white directly with western concepts of 'justice.'  White is definitely &amp;quot;law and order&amp;quot; but there a plenty of planes in the multiverse where the law and order it imposes would definitely be unjust or outright evil to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White's all time greatest strength is 'imprisonment' style creature removal.  Super efficient spells that get rid of a creature for little mana but either give some benefit to the victim in exchange for the efficiency or are restricted in timing/aren't permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White's overall focus is really still on small creatures coming together to form a more powerful army.  Latest sets aside, I think Angels are a secondary theme to the idea of a united army being stronger than the individual little humans or knights or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White's greatest weakness mechanically is placing high value on lifegain, which is generally not a powerful mechanic, and a lack of ways to replenish your hand.  Even Green has better options for picking up some more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uses a single minded devotion to Law and Order to deal with enemy&#xA;trouble makers and unite small creatures together into armies that are&#xA;greater than the sum of their parts.  Has objectively the best removal&#xA;spells in the game, but they come with a 'benefit' to the opponent or&#xA;are not 'permanent.'  White also includes the iconic Angels that are&#xA;among the most recognized cards in magic and some of the most powerful&#xA;creatures ever printed.  Examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Honor%20of%20the%20Pure&quot;&gt;Honor of the Pure&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Baneslayer%20Angel&quot;&gt;Baneslayer Angel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T18:29:38.890" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T18:29:38.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6788" CreationDate="2012-05-11T21:25:07.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not exactly what you asked for, but it may solve your problem and it's sure good info for those who want to play &quot;alone&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bang!-the-official-video-game/id406634232?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official app for iOS&lt;/a&gt; devices that let you play offline against NPCs or online with other people. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I write this, the app costs US$4.99, but there are two special edition versions that are &lt;strong&gt;free&lt;/strong&gt;, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bang!-italia-150/id425995340?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BANG! Italia 150&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bang!-4th-of-july/id444997715?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BANG! 4th of July&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1441" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:25:07.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-05-11T21:27:04.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a lot of detail that can be gone into here, but I'm just going to focus on a couple of points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I disagree that white &quot;has good creatures&quot;.  White, aside from a few powerful Angels at the top end, has &lt;em&gt;good small creatures&lt;/em&gt;.  You'll rarely find cost-effective white creatures in the middle or at the top end of the mana curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White's primary weakness from my point of view is that, while it may be a combat colour, its main strengths are &lt;em&gt;defensive&lt;/em&gt;.  White direct damage is practically nonexistent; its removal is strongly conditional on having been attacked first, or temporarily rather than permanently disables a threat.  Lifegain is the key example, but in other ways too white is a very &lt;em&gt;reactive&lt;/em&gt; rather than proactive colour.  Red, black and green have different ways of dishing out pain to the opponent, but apart from its &quot;weenie swarm&quot; strategy, white, like blue, generally contains threats rather than presents them.  Whether that is ultimately a strength or a weakness depends in the long run on your play style!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-11T21:27:04.750" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-05-11T22:30:18.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me try to complete your proposition without adding too many words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White:&lt;/strong&gt; Uses the power of life and justice to play powerful creatures, life-gain spells, sweeper spells, small creatures, and good defenses. Second best in flying and creatures overall, but weak against &lt;em&gt;decks constructed specifically against white and some blue contrlling and countering decks; it also lacks direct damage options&lt;/em&gt;.  Examples: &lt;em&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Angel&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=White%20Knight&quot;&gt;White Knight&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disenchant&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swords%20to%20Plowshares&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armageddon&quot;&gt;Armageddon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Righteousness&quot;&gt;Righteousness&lt;/a&gt;, Circles of Protection&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T20:50:31.717" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T20:50:31.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7397" CreationDate="2012-05-11T23:32:29.603" Score="5" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just completed playing Constantinopolis&lt;sup&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31483/constantinopolis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt; for the first time and there is a rule that I think requires clarification. The Taberna utility building (Reseller) is used for purchasing goods of a type you already produce. The section of the rules quotes this as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The owner of this building can buy goods from the market that he can&#xA;  produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read this as I can buy as many goods as I like in accordance with the limitations of the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the graphic on the building tile (Taberna below) shows a goods cube with a number 1 next to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gDBt6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would associate this symbol meaning either that it can only be used for a single cube, a single cube of each type, or a single type. I can't find any specific clarifications though. Does anyone know the correct rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEB5N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Constantinopolis box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T02:02:56.770" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T02:02:56.770" Title="Constantinopolis Taberna Building" Tags="|constantinopolis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7352" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-11T23:51:31.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Constantinopolis is a board game of resource management, economy, and trade for 2-5 players. With a moderate game time of 1 to 2 hours and intuitive rules, Constantinopolis strikes the perfect balance of accessibility and depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 6th century A.D., ruled by Emperor Iustinianus (commonly called 'Justinian'), Constantinopolis was the largest emporium in the East Roman 'Byzantine' Empire. Built on the shore of the Marmara sea, at the entrance of the Bosporus (Hellispontus), its position let it take on the role of one of the most important harbors. Its quickly expanding trade and exports to close cities were great opportunities for the local businessmen to expand their riches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take on the role of an ambitious merchant during this golden era of trade. The task set before you is to become the most successful entrepreneur in the city of Constantinopolis. Compete against your rivals and earn the most renown by completing contracts and establishing viable trade; your fame will be measured by your ability to expand your trade district while managing your delivery contracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2012-05-12T02:08:17.337" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T02:08:17.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7353" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-11T23:51:31.200" Score="0" Body="Constantinopolis is a board game of resource management, economy, and trade for 2-5 players. With a moderate game time of 1 to 2 hours and intuitive rules, Constantinopolis strikes the perfect balance of accessibility and depth.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7" LastEditorUserId="7" LastEditDate="2012-05-12T02:08:20.893" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T02:08:20.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6364" CreationDate="2012-05-12T07:17:54.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, the best solution is to have a very functional design first, with a &quot;pretty version&quot; using the exact same underlying design, but with full color pretty images, including both in the package. The simple functional version will often be the trial - it needs to be low ink, and preferably grayscale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the underlying design isn't functional, the game won't get played, no matter how pretty...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside: for a P&amp;amp;P, if people wouldn't play the cheapass games edition of it, they're unlikely to play the fancy versions, either. Note that several of Cheapass Games' could-have-been-laser-printed games later had much pricier full color versions sold. Some examples include Cartagena, Give Me The Brain, and Lord of the Fries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hell, people will play some DAMNED F'UGLY games... so long as the play is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T07:17:54.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7356" CreationDate="2012-05-12T15:46:39.223" Score="34" ViewCount="43587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had several humans on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turn three, I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Triumph%20of%20Ferocity&quot;&gt;Triumph of Ferocity&lt;/a&gt;. On turn four, I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Descendants%27%20Path&quot;&gt;Descendants&amp;#39; Path&lt;/a&gt;. On turn five, during my upkeep, this question came up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I need to draw/reveal three cards. If I reveal a human, Descendants' Path will allow me to cast it without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does it matter when I draw the human?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The static abilities state &amp;quot;at the beginning up your upkeep...&amp;quot; which leads me to believe that those two draws/reveals would happen before my normal draw. If that's the case, does the draw order happen in the same order that I played the enchantments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, that's how we decided to do it. I drew first for Triumph of Ferocity, then I revealed for Descendants' Path, then I drew for my turn. Did we do it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2699" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T17:37:35.547" LastActivityDate="2019-01-28T23:06:46.463" Title="What order do triggered abilities happen in if multiple things trigger at the same time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7355" CreationDate="2012-05-12T16:11:13.603" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When multiple abilities trigger &lt;em&gt;at the same time&lt;/em&gt; (as Path and Triumph did, in this situation) and you control both of them, you can choose to put them on the stack in any order you like.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, &lt;strong&gt;each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;chooses&lt;/strong&gt;. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and&#xA;resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities&#xA;that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process&#xA;repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no&#xA;abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Descendants%27%20Path&quot;&gt;Descendants&amp;#39; Path&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Triumph%20of%20Ferocity&quot;&gt;Triumph of Ferocity&lt;/a&gt; trigger at the same time, at the beginning of your upkeep. Because you control both triggers, you have a choice of how to put those two triggers on the stack, meaning you can draw a card from Triumph of Ferocity first (put Triumph's trigger on the stack on top of Path's) or reveal the card for Descendants' Path first (put Path's trigger on the stack on top of Triumph's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterward, when you proceed to the draw step, you get your normal draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, your actions were perfectly game-legal. But you could have changed the order and that would be correct as well.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; drawing three cards in this situation. Descendants' Path tells you to &amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot; a card and do something with it. This does not count as &amp;quot;drawing&amp;quot; it for abilities that reference that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, &amp;quot;APNAP order&amp;quot; just means that, if both players have to do something, the player whose turn it is makes the decisions first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes&#xA;any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the&#xA;player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required,&#xA;followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the&#xA;actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the&#xA;“Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-05-12T16:11:13.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-05-12T20:18:12.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might not be aware but Wizards &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/NewtoMagic.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/newtomagic/whatismagic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;already has a page&lt;/a&gt; describing to a new player what the core concepts of each colour of magic are. Here's what they have to say, even more concisely than how you explain the colours:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##White: The color of Justice&#xA;White spellcasters use superior tactics, efficient creatures, and the power of righteousness against their foes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Blue: The color of Wisdom&#xA;Blue mages focus on using superior knowledge to gain control of a battle, and slowly gain the upper hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Black: The color of Ambition&#xA;Black sorcerers are willing to do whatever it takes to win a battle, even if it means sacrificing everything to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Red: The color of Chaos&#xA;Red conjurers try to win as quickly and dramatically as possible, smashing and burning their way to a quick victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Green: The color of Nature&#xA;Green shamans win duels through the brute force of mother nature, summoning giant creatures to squash their enemies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think some of your explanations need a bit of work. For example, black isn't (always) explicitly evil, just selfish and ambitious; and red isn't just &amp;quot;the power of fire&amp;quot; (although the element of fire is associated with it) just like blue isn't &amp;quot;the power of water&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White: Uses the power justice to play efficient creatures and deal with combat threats. Best at manipulating enchantments, artifact equipment, and life gain, and second best in flying. Worst at direct damage: white relies on superior tactics in combat to deal the lethal blow. Examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elite%20Vanguard&quot;&gt;Elite Vanguard&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pacifism&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lifelink&quot;&gt;Lifelink&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T21:54:25.840" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T21:54:25.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7359" CreationDate="2012-05-14T06:44:08.003" Score="4" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; states &amp;quot;Copy target instant or sorcery spell you control. If Increasing Vengeance was cast from a graveyard, copy that spell twice instead. You may choose new targets for the copies.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &amp;quot;You may choose new targets for the copies&amp;quot; apply only if Increasing Vengeance was cast from the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2699" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T03:02:21.110" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T03:02:21.110" Title="Increasing Vengeance and new targets" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7358" CreationDate="2012-05-14T07:06:29.830" Score="9" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; (but are not required to) choose new copies for any or all copies created by Increasing Vengeance. &quot;Copies&quot; in the last sentence refers to any copies the spell produces, even if it's just one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these types of questions can be easily referenced by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262661&quot;&gt;looking up the rulings for Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; on Gatherer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-05-14T09:35:35.290" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T09:35:35.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7341" CreationDate="2012-05-14T09:43:16.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most widely used interchange format for Scrabble games is documented at&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://poslfit.com/scrabble/gcg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://poslfit.com/scrabble/gcg/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's used for example by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cross-tables.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cross-tables.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.word-buff.com/free-scrabble-game.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quackle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolfberg.net/what/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(Mike Wolfberg's program) WHAT&lt;/a&gt;, and proprietary software for webcasts of national and world championships. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The so-called .gcg (for &quot;generic crossword game&quot;) format is a human-editable&#xA;text file with one line per move played so far in the game, with a list of&#xA;pragmata for identifying players, current rack if game in progress, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2847" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-09-21T15:01:50.430" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T15:01:50.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7362" CreationDate="2012-05-14T13:45:29.083" Score="4" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Few squares in &lt;strong&gt;Encore!&lt;/strong&gt; are more dreaded by our play group than the &quot;Vs. Player&quot; squares — &quot;Team vs. Player&quot; and &quot;Player Vs. Player.&quot; It's not just that they're harder; they're palpably less fun, and kill the momentum that's generated by the game. They remove the collaborative element that's a big part of the game's appeal, and have the potential to cause tension. (Instances where the chosen player gets a word that they blank on,  or when the rest of the team has to sit in silence as the &quot;best&quot; player seizes the spotlight for a while or a stymied teammate struggles with a word that his or her friends can think of half a dozen songs for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some steps we've taken to try and fix the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On XvP squares, the &quot;player&quot; is not necessarily chosen in advance; rather, it's the person on the singing team who begins the first song after the timer starts running. This means you'll never be completely without a song unless no one on your team had one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At our last &lt;strong&gt;Encore!&lt;/strong&gt; party, I served as timekeeper and as the &quot;player&quot; — XvP became &quot;challenge the host.&quot; This worked well for the team challenge, but Player vs. Me had many of the same difficulties as Player vs. Player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We like &lt;strong&gt;Encore!&lt;/strong&gt; and play it regularly, but it seems that this one element is more likely to cause awkwardness in the game than any other. How can this be reduced or eliminated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T03:32:42.830" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T01:44:45.300" Title="Fixing the &quot;Vs. Player&quot; squares in Encore!" Tags="|party|encore|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7361" CreationDate="2012-05-14T14:38:52.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the looks of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Encore,thesongfilledsingoffgame.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, ways of solving this issue are rather limited. This appears to be a normal roll and move trivial pursuit type of game of the music variety. Your solution is probably the best solution, &lt;strong&gt;just don't use single player spaces&lt;/strong&gt;. In any game that requires a single player from a team to answer a question, it can be awkward if that player is completely stumped. In a game like this, where you want collaboration, I see no need to force single players to compete against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-14T14:38:52.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7337" CreationDate="2012-05-14T16:20:23.900" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question may look simple at first, but refuting the deviation is pretty difficult - there are no original sources on this to my knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Not answering the hane directly&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . a 0 4 8 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . b 1 5 6 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 9 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 3 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, let's try a different answer to white 6. Black could consider playing 7 at a or b, but I believe the result would be bad. It can be considered, though, if the board is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hane at a could lead to a complicated fight, probably involving an exchange, but I could not tell if it is better for either player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 O O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . a . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of b is to either magari-turn at 3 if white connect on the right, switching to the top instead of the right side all of sudden. This would be very unusual after blocking at 5 initially, and locally white gets a superior result. I presume that (apart from extending on the top) black would like to add a stone at a later to enclose white and get a reasonable outside shape. Either way black is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . a 2 O O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white instead opts to push from behind on the third line once more (at a) before returning to play 7, it is better than joseki for black. If white attempts to resist by jumping to a, black will not hane at 3 next, but push through at 2 and cut, involving a ladder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion of this section, while an option to consider, I would not regard a different answer to the hane a refutation at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reverting to joseki&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 2 . O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the deviation is played out, black could nobi at 1, with white jumping at 2. Seemingly, this is even because we returned to joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . a X X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, instead of the usual move at a, black might consider playing at 1 instead. This leads to a different joseki, with emphasis on territory on the right edge. Losing this option is a loss for black. This in effect means that white's early hane is &lt;em&gt;superior to joseki&lt;/em&gt;, which is impossible by definition. Accordingly, returning to joseki is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; sufficient as a refutation of the deviation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . a O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X X 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, the hane is sometimes played by white in a similar shape precisely when white is afraid of a black hane there instead of the usual nobi at a. This is an (uncommon) joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So sum this up, we still have not found a viable refutation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hane&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . b 1 O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . a X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to hane at 1. In this shape, white has the options of cutting at a or clamp at b. Hane underneath is impossible since black would be most glad to just nobi-extend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 4 2 . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 1 X O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O a . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the clamp, descending at 2 is very dangerous. The sequence to 4 is the basic pattern likely to follow, but the fight is easier for white since black has no good response to a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white cuts, a fight involving a ladder will follow, possible leading to an exchange, as explained in a different answer. This can get pretty messy if both sides keep playing the strongest moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Leaping ahead&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . a 2 . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . c 1 b O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black is not forced to hane, he can consider a keima, too. Usually, white would attach at 2, leaving black with the options of a, b, c or tenuki. Since white was lowered to the second line, I consider this a superior for black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . c . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 1 2 O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . b a X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case white plays 2 instead, bumping against the black single stone, black should consider either covering at a or the strong nobi at b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . b . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . a X O O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . c 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case black covers at 1, it is difficult to clamp at a, because white lacks an as effective attack on the 5 (instead of 4) black stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crawling on the second line at b once or maybe twice is an option, in both cases probably leading to white gaining sente. Locally, the result is very bad compared to joseki, but white finished in sente &lt;em&gt;twice&lt;/em&gt;, which is very valuable, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the option to cut at c. This fight should be acceptable for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . 4 . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . 3 2 . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . 5 . X O O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . 1 6 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . 8 7 . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case black plays strongly, white will aim to exploit the increased cut aji, likely starting with the hane at 2. This way, white gets life while getting enclosed by a &lt;em&gt;thin&lt;/em&gt; black group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, black can consider different moves (e.g. 5 at 6, or even 3 at 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X a O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comments, there is a very strong variation with white cutting immediately. If black cuts at a, it will return to the situation that requires a black ladder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X 3 O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . 4 1 X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . 5 2 . X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without said ladder, black will have to hane from the outside at 2. The sequence to 5 will follow, leading to a fight. Black's shape seems relatively poor so this should be carefully examined before playing the keima.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black specifically wants to avoid a fight, he can always chose to play the simple nobi (6 in the previous diagram) to revert to the usual joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, despite the vast number of possibilities that arise from the keima, I believe this to be the best option in case black wants to resist and does not mind a fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we could say that black has &lt;strong&gt;gained far more options than he lost&lt;/strong&gt; by white's deviation, thus refuting white's move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, likely the early hane is a only tiny mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T14:54:38.800" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T14:54:38.800" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7365" CreationDate="2012-05-14T19:28:19.173" Score="12" ViewCount="2519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt;. Can I counter it with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; from my hand? I know that lands can't be countered because they don't go on the stack, but what about land-creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T02:58:58.337" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T02:58:58.337" Title="Can I counter a land-creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7364" CreationDate="2012-05-14T19:38:39.490" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The short answer is that Dryad Arbor can't be countered because it can only be played as a land, not a spell.&lt;/strong&gt; Here's the supporting statement from the card's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Oracle rulings&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dryad Arbor is played as a land. It doesn't use the stack, it's not a&#xA;  spell, it can't be responded to, it has no mana cost, and it counts as&#xA;  your land play for the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the card's reminder text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Dryad Arbor isn't a spell&lt;/strong&gt;, it's affected by summoning sickness, and&#xA;  it has &quot;{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool.&quot;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer &lt;em&gt;rules&lt;/em&gt; over &lt;em&gt;rulings&lt;/em&gt;, let's start with the rule saying you can't counter land:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.1. ... Playing a land is a special action; it doesn't use the stack (see rule 115). Rather, the player simply puts the land onto the&#xA;  battlefield. Since the land doesn't go on the stack, it is never a&#xA;  spell, and players can't respond to it with instants or activated&#xA;  abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, you'll want to note this section of the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.9. If an object is both a land and another card type, it can be played only as a land. It can't be cast as a spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, this rule is saying that the Land card type overrides the normal behavior of the various spell card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rather esoteric rule isn't actually required for Dryad Arbor to work the way that it does -- &lt;strong&gt;simply having no listed mana cost would mean that you can't play it like a normal spell, while being of the Land type would allow it to be played as a land&lt;/strong&gt;. My best guess as to why it's there is that the original multi-typed lands, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?type=%20%5BArtifact%5D%20%5BLand%5D&quot;&gt;Mirrodin's artifact lands&lt;/a&gt;, were much more &quot;land&quot; than &quot;spell,&quot; so this was codified in the rules for playing them. I take it as not so much saying that a land &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; a mana cost would still be uncastable as precluding the existence of such a card altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T23:51:09.280" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T23:51:09.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7368" CreationDate="2012-05-15T03:41:43.613" Score="10" ViewCount="1574" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/feature-article-why-you-should-be-sideboarding-lands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some Magic writers&lt;/a&gt; advise players to side out a land when on the draw in Limited, in order to improve the probability of drawing a strong starting hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it reasonable to do the same (side out a land on the draw) in Constructed? And, if so, why isn't it commonly done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have a good reason to have land in your Constructed sideboard in the first place (usually cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland&quot;&gt;Wasteland&lt;/a&gt;), when is it strategically beneficial to bring in extra lands instead of only making spell-for-spell substitutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T06:33:03.747" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T06:33:03.747" Title="When should you side lands in and out?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7366" CreationDate="2012-05-15T07:37:07.453" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A recent case of this was in pre-Avacyn Restored Standard. There were some versions of UB Control that had 3 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=273870&amp;amp;part=Nephalia%20Drownyard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nephalia Drownyards&lt;/a&gt; main-deck and another one in the sideboard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a control mirror with both decks full of reactive cards, the player who has mana advantage usually wins the game, because he or she can play many spells in one turn (e.g. play a threat, counter a removal spell against it, then counter the opponent's counter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With lands in the sideboard, this deck could side in an extra land, taking out a removal spell. This way they would hit their land drops more easily and have another win condition in the deck, since milling was the best win condition in UB mirrors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/gpbal12/welcome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2nd place finisher of GP Baltimore 2012&lt;/a&gt;, as Hackworth pointed in the comments, used 2 lands in his sideboard. Its player goes so far as to say that Nephalia Drownyard is &quot;the only card that matters in the mirror.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2314" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-19T11:54:15.050" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T11:54:15.050" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7327" CreationDate="2012-05-15T07:48:10.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was bugging me sufficiently that I asked it as a question on the MTG-RULES mailing list, and received the following response (which fortunately confirms the above answers!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The converted mana cost is 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The idea is that you choose X before you determine how much mana you&#xA;  pay. You don't say &quot;cast it for 3WW&quot; then attempt to determine the&#xA;  value of X, but rather decide on a value for X, announce you're using&#xA;  the Miracle alternate cost, and only then determine that, e.g., it&#xA;  costs 3WW for X = 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;X has indeed the same value on every instance on a card, and has the&#xA;  value chosen for it when it's on the stack. If you chose X = 3, then&#xA;  the converted mana cost is 9 on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to paraphrase it in a way that helps &lt;em&gt;me&lt;/em&gt; understand, &quot;the X&quot; of a spell is essentially a feature of a spell that you declare as you announce that spell, in much the same way as its target, or the mode of a modal spell.  It's not so much part of the mana cost, as something the mana cost is later derived from!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T07:48:10.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7366" CreationDate="2012-05-15T07:57:07.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first question, I would say that while the same mathematics work for constructed as well, sideboarding lands just for mana balance reasons in constructed does not seem reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, in constructed the impact of a single land on the mana balance of your deck is smaller than in limited due to larger decksize (and the effect is quite small to begin with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, in limited you have infinite lands in your sideboard, while in constructed you would have to remove a real card from the sideboard to fit in a land. Since the sideboard cards in constructed typically are very high impact cards in the right situation, this cost is quite significant, and likely higher than any benefit from potentially better mana balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T07:57:07.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7372" CreationDate="2012-05-15T09:17:28.717" Score="8" ViewCount="4694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% sure what happens if I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goldnight%20Commander&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thatcher%20Revolt&quot;&gt;Thatcher Revolt&lt;/a&gt;. Do all three 1/1 red human tokens enter the battlefield at once, giving each of them +3/+3 (along with all creatures already on the battlefield)? Or does the first one get +3/+3, the second one +2/+2 and the last one only +1/+1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the former, but it would be great if someone could confirm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1902" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T06:13:26.743" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T06:13:26.743" Title="Goldnight Commander and Thatcher Revolt" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7371" CreationDate="2012-05-15T09:25:54.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All three of your Thatchers will get +3/+3.  They do enter the battlefield simultaneously, and in the process of Thatcher Revolt resolving, Goldnight Commander will trigger three separate times.  By the time you reach the point of going to resolve each of the three Goldnight Commander triggers on the stack, Thatcher Revolt has long since finished resolving, and all your Thatchers are present on the battlefield, queueing up for their Giant Growths!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T09:25:54.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7371" CreationDate="2012-05-15T09:29:24.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the comprensive rules on triggered abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6a Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. These are written, &quot;When [this object] enters the battlefield, ...&quot; or &quot;Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield, ...&quot; Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that match the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when the tokens come into play at the same time, each individual trigger from Goldnight Commander goes on the stack one after another, and you resolve one at a time. Each one will give all your creatures +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, &lt;strong&gt;all the tokens will get +3/+3!&lt;/strong&gt; Remember, the triggered abilities go on the stack after Thatcher Revolt finishes resolving, at which point you already have all the tokens in play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T09:29:24.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7366" CreationDate="2012-05-15T09:34:51.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tengfred has already made what I think is the crucial point here: your constructed sideboard allotment is a parsimonious 15 cards.  If you're spending slots on the ability to subtly rejig your mana balance between games on the play and on the draw, you're probably doing it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if you can genuinely only find 14 nonland cards that would improve your deck in any imaginable scenario, then I can imagine worse things than a land in the 15th slot.  An extra land is almost always going to be a better draw against a creatureless deck than a removal spell, for instance!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T09:34:51.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19215" CreationDate="2012-05-15T11:20:23.327" Score="20" ViewCount="8221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start this question with the following assumptions about a game of Carcassonne:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a two player game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/images/download/CarcassonneComplete.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;current basic set of rules/tiles&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;edit:&lt;/strong&gt; just to be clear, I'm using &lt;strong&gt;3rd edition rules&lt;/strong&gt; that score all city tiles the same 2 points and count the same city for different farms as described &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/471/1262&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player we want to maximize has perfect luck and perfect competence both drawing the tiles and placing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent has minimum luck and competence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means we can choose what tiles are drawn by each player, how they are played and how to place each players' meeples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an optimal way of placing the tiles in order to maximize one player's score? If so, can that way be determined?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:39:10.110" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:33:14.817" Title="Maximum attainable points for a single player in a two player game of Carcassonne" Tags="|carcassonne|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2012-05-15T13:31:49.443" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there an optimal way of placing the tiles in order to maximize one player's score?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a finite amount of tiles, a finite number of legal placements for any tile at any point in the game, and a finite amount of meeple plays after placing a tile, it should be obvious that there are a finite number of possible games. Every game has a definite result in terms of score, so clearly, there must be at least one game that produces the highest possible score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, can that way be determined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, in theory you could just run all possible plays through a computer and find the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, my gut feeling as a programmer tells me that an exhaustive search through all plays would, on current hardware, quickly become useless due to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intractability_%28complexity%29#Intractability&quot;&gt;combinatorial explosion&lt;/a&gt;, simply because the search tree becomes too broad to handle incredibly fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just for a rough idea, a sample calculation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base set has 72 tiles. After placing the starting tile, you have 71 at your disposal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The starter tile is designed to allow every single of those 71 tiles to be placed in 1-6 distinct ways, not counting irrelevant, merely graphical rotations. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a mean of 3 ways per tile, for the first move alone, you have roughly 200 possible maps after the 2nd tile has been placed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Next turn, you have only 1 fewer tiles, but far more possible ways to place the average tile, because the number of single edges has increased by 2, or increased by 50% in this case. You are probably looking at around 300 possible moves now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if the sum of possible tile placements for all remaining tiles stagnate at 200 per move on average (which is probably way too low an estimate), after 10+1 moves of 71+1, you already have 200^10 = 10^23 different maps. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calculating 10^12 maps per second (probably out of reach for typical desktop hardware), it would take &lt;strong&gt;over 3000 years just to calculate all possible maps after 11 moves.&lt;/strong&gt;. Make that a million Desktop PCs, and you're looking at a full day to calculate the first 11 moves. Next move, multiply by 200, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And all that is assuming nobody places any meeple during those turns, which again vastly increases the search space!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In conclusion, I find it highly unlikely that anyone has ever calculated anything close to an exhaustive set of possible Carcassonne maps, let alone the definite high score anyone can theoretically achieve&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that neither of these answers is particularly helpful, but I believe that's pretty much all you can say about the problem without writing a scientific paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T14:17:20.103" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T14:17:20.103" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7377" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-05-15T20:56:48.850" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:56:48.850" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:56:48.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7378" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-05-15T20:56:48.850" Score="0" Body="Deviating from joseki means playing an unusual move that is not part of a joseki. Typically, it is a mistake, though actually refuting it can be very difficult. It could also be part of a rare joseki that is not well known because it is only applicable on special boards." OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-05-15T20:56:48.850" LastActivityDate="2012-05-15T20:56:48.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6785" CreationDate="2012-05-16T06:44:45.200" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget the most important thing about teaching new players games. &lt;strong&gt;Know the game, you're going to play, well!!!&lt;/strong&gt; It is crucial that someone knows the rules well and can explain and answer questions fast to get some kind of flow. If you want to try a brand new game, pick it up the day before and read the rules. Maybe set the board and play around or watch someone else play it on youtube. &#xA;This will make your gaming session so much better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2012-05-16T12:58:02.160" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T12:58:02.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2012-05-16T07:11:56.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I dont think one needs to know all possible arrangements to calculate the maximum score. There  are a finite amount of city tiles for example which, if the cities are closed, give 2 points each (not counting shields for simplicitys sake). So basically, the question on how many points one can get from the cities is to ask if one can build one massive city with the city tiles. Or how many small cities can be made. The points will be the same in both cases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2853" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T07:11:56.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-05-16T08:01:53.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;White: Has really good cheap creatures. Not necessarily big ones, but they often have useful abilities or come in numbers. A classic deck concept is &amp;quot;White weenie&amp;quot;.&#xA;White has the best unconditional sweepers and really strong spot removal, though the spot removal always has a drawback. White is the strongest defensive color with protection, damage prevention, life gain and spells that are only able affect creatures attacking them.&#xA;(Card examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20the%20Townsfolk&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirran%20crusader&quot;&gt;Mirran crusader&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Condemn&quot;&gt;Condemn&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Honor%20of%20the%20Pure&quot;&gt;Honor of the Pure&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to add more it would be about good at handling (offense/defense) enchantments and possibly mention their top end bombs. Though I think it's of less importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T20:49:45.493" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T20:49:45.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2012-05-16T13:07:40.630" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Hackworth notes, testing all possible layouts is obviously infeasible. However, it might be possible to get a decent upper bound on the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think we can safely assume that meeples will not be a scarce resource when playing in this way (since we can choose to complete the map in any order, it should not be difficult to ensure we always have meeples available). Thus the problem is reduced to finding the highest scoring map-layout.&#xA;The upper bounds for roads, cities and cloisters are easy; 9 for each cloister, 2 for each city tile (and 2 for each pennant) and 1 for each road-tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The farms are the tricky part. First we would have to figure out the maximum number of cities we can make, and second, we need to figure out the maximum number of farms that can supply each city, with the limit of max 7 fields total.&#xA;This is certainly not easy, but should be a lot easier than the original problem (there are a limited number of ways in which a city could be supplied by multiple farms, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could probably get a decent approximation by just playing around with the tiles for a few hours...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastEditorUserId="2763" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T06:57:38.317" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T06:57:38.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7385" CreationDate="2012-05-16T17:17:49.887" Score="4" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an armored infantry style 40K Ork army: Nobz/Boyz/Burnaboyz in Trukks and Battlewagons. Against an army with any sort of shooty capability, I rarely can get the troops into assault range. Their transports get blown up, and then it's a long walk whilst getting shot up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this army style just can't work, that's fine. I am wondering what sort of strategy, if any, would assist my transports getting the troops into assault range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T19:22:20.150" Title="40K: strategies to help my Ork Trukks/Battlewagons survive long enough to deliver their passengers into assault range?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|orks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7386" CreationDate="2012-05-16T17:26:54.400" Score="4" ViewCount="1480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was considering &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/7383/2177&quot;&gt;strategies to help my armored infantry style Ork army get into assault range&lt;/a&gt; and was looking at Lootas as a long range direct fire support option. I see Mekboyz may replace 1-3 Lootas, but what is the value of replacing Lootas with Mekboyz? The weapon options for a Mekboy do not offer any advantage over the Lootas deffgun that I can see, so why would someone field Mekboyz with Lootas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 8 October 2012&lt;/strong&gt; When I asked this question, 40K was in 5th edition, and the accepted answer remains quite valid for 5th ed. Now that we're in 6th edition, a Battlewagon full of Lootaz may fire their heavy Deffguns as snap shots when their rolling fortress moves. Having a Mekboy along for the ride has some tactical value for immobilized/weapon destroyed repairs on the Battlewagon. I do not want to start a discussion, simply point out I find there is now &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; tactical value for choosing a Mekboy with a mob of Lootaz in 6th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T17:56:19.967" Title="40K Orks: what is the tactical value of having Mekboys in a mob of Lootas?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|orks|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7383" CreationDate="2012-05-16T19:22:20.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to get Battlewagons across the board, that I've see used, is to attach a Big Mek with a Kustom Force Field to the squad inside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make the Battlewagon(and I think every other vehicle within 6 inches of the Battlewagon) obscured.  A 4+ cover save should help you get across the board a little more consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-05-16T19:22:20.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2012-05-16T19:29:51.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people don't field the Mekboys.  In fact, in 5 years I've never seen anyone put a Mekboy in a squad of Lootas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you're not alone in not seeing their usefulness.  Technically you could use the Mekboy to build a little duality into the unit.  This makes them slightly more well rounded so as to be able to deal with other types of threats, but that's not what people generally take Lootas for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lootas are Orks most consistent and effective long range shooting, adding a Mekboy degrades their points efficiency.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In response to the edit about 6th&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case I think you are better off with an attached Big Mek.  That way you can add in a Kustom Force Field to protect the battle wagon.  I'm also not a big fan of just snap shooting them from a moving vehicle.  They'll be susceptible to stun and shaken results on the wagon even if they disembark afterwards.  Going from a 5+ to a 6+ to hit may not seem like much, but is still a 50% reduction in shooting effectiveness.  Why do that if you don't have too?  And finally, why would you need to move a long ranged unit like Lootas in the first place?  A good deployment position should give them range to most of the board.  Put something else in that wagon; something you want to get closer to the enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T11:23:28.830" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T11:23:28.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8302" CreationDate="2012-05-16T21:07:52.890" Score="6" ViewCount="18003" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up a 40K Necron codex today and I am rather astonished. They appear quite overpowered to me. Then again, I play Orks and Imperial Guard, so maybe that's why they appear so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is for the experienced Necron players: what are the disadvantages in playing Necrons? There's the low initiative (offset by being reasonably tough and numerous), most of the armor values are relatively low (offset by vehicle abilities) and the weapon ranges seem to cluster around 24&quot; (not so bad). So what do you have to watch out for or compensate for when playing your Necrons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T20:37:25.577" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T16:20:15.113" Title="40K: What are the disadvantages of playing Necrons?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|necron|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2012-05-17T13:20:16.687" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: This answer below is using 1st Edition scoring rules (Cities only scored once). Although parts of the analysis are valuable to calculating the highest score possible (36 Scoring opportunities, try to score with Meeples that have a high point value per the 36 turns, the highest score of 278 is not correct. I will have to do further analysis to determine if 7 farms can be created scoring the most cities multiple times, will result in a maximal score. (&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;strong&gt;maximum theoretical score is 338&lt;/strong&gt;, as posted in my other &lt;strong&gt;3rd Edition&lt;/strong&gt; rules analysis)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hackworth&lt;/strong&gt;'s analysis about optimal play exists is correct, although he is right about the difficulty in evaluating all possible moves, I believe that &lt;strong&gt;tengfred&lt;/strong&gt; is closer in estimation of what we need to determine the maximum score possible. We only need to evaluate ending maps, not all possible moves from the beginning to the end. Once we have found the maximum scoring map, we only need to backtrack to find a legal set of moves that will lead to that end map. That is as &lt;strong&gt;tengfred&lt;/strong&gt; points out, a much smaller problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_48_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules show 72 tiles&lt;/a&gt;, and scoring as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Road (1 point per tile), Cities (2 points per tile, 2 Points per pennant), Cloister (1 point for each tile, cloister tile and surrounding tiles), Farm (3 points per completed city)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar question was asked on &lt;a href=&quot;http://opinionatedgamers.com/2011/02/04/guzzle-1-carcassone-challenge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Opinionated Gamer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My challenge to you is to see how many points you can score using only the 72 tiles in the base set – following all of the rules as printed in the box — EXCEPT that you can only use one meeple!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weihwa.com/~whuang/videos/carc-anim.swf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wie Hwa&lt;/a&gt; (animation) solved that problem with 277 points.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P1RvH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Wie Hwa&amp;#39;s end map&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He didn't always score on odd turns, so his solution isn't the correct answer to this question. But, someone with more desire than me might want to take his end map and modify the order of the turns so that player 1 is always the one to score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gets you a grand total of 278 points (the board actually will have an unmatched city tile that cannot score I think, and still place a farmer). It is amazing that &lt;strong&gt;Wei Hwa&lt;/strong&gt; almost achieved this using only a single meeple in single player. Feel free to figure out if his end map is an optimal solution for 2-player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum number of scoring opportunities is 36 if you go first since you can only place meeples on your turn. The optimal solution will include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one farmer, 45 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 completed cities, 116 points (10 pennants = 20 pts, 48 city edges = 96)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 cloisters, 54 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The remaining points divided between the most points that can be scored on roads with the remaining 14 moves (1x Quad road = 4 pts,7x Tri Road = 21 points, 32 straight/elbow non terminals, 5x Dead End)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T15:09:29.610" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:09:29.610" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7390" CreationDate="2012-05-17T18:11:39.257" Score="5" ViewCount="719" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=chancellor&quot;&gt;Chancellor&lt;/a&gt; and choose to move your discard pile into your deck, do you gain a Gold for each &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=tunnel&quot;&gt;Tunnel&lt;/a&gt; moved into your discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the wording of Chancellor, I would assume no because it doesn't mention that you're discarding those cards, but I don't have access to the rules at the moment to see if either base or Hinterlands rules cover this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T09:55:48.913" Title="When you use Chancellor to discard your deck, do you gain a gold for each Tunnel discarded?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-hinterlands|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7389" CreationDate="2012-05-17T18:38:50.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_396_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hinterland Rules&lt;/a&gt;, Chancellor does not trigger Tunnel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ability does not function if cards are put into your discard pile without being discarded, .... when your deck is put into your discard pile, such as with Chancellor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-17T18:38:50.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7393" CreationDate="2012-05-17T23:19:42.583" Score="29" ViewCount="3629" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most board games are competitive, where you have players competing against each other, trying to win.  Some board games are described as &quot;cooperative&quot;, where the players are trying to do...what exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a competitive game, there isn't usually a single optimum path to victory, since the actions of the other players will change in response to what one player does.  Someone might publish the so-called &quot;best&quot; strategy for Dominion, yet it isn't going to win every game, since the other players can adjust their strategies in response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a cooperative game, once someone has worked out an optimum strategy, the game can't respond by changing its strategies (or can it?) so there's nothing left for the players to do but carry out that optimum strategy.  If they fail, it's just due to the roll of the dice (or draw of the cards, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what makes a cooperative board game actually a game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just so you understand, I'm not asking this to be snarky, or to disparage cooperative games.  It's that I simply don't understand how such games could retain playworthiness once they've been played a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T05:38:29.090" Title="What makes a cooperative board game actually a game?" Tags="|game-design|cooperation|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2012-05-18T00:13:11.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cooperative game is a game because it has a win and a loss condition. You are playing against the system. Play worthiness has nothing to do with it. Tic-Tac-Toe is a game, just not a very good one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T05:03:36.890" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T05:03:36.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2012-05-18T01:31:20.297" Score="61" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What is a game?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some argument about what exactly constitutes a &amp;quot;game&amp;quot; in academic and design circles. Going by Salen and Zimmerman's definition from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mitpress.mit.edu/catalog/item/default.asp?ttype=2&amp;amp;tid=9802&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rules of Play&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game is a system in which players engage in an artificial conflict,&#xA;defined by rules, that results in a quantifiable outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cooperative games still have rules and definite win/loss outcomes.&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;Artificial conflict&amp;quot; does not prescribe that the conflict be between players, or that it be focused on &lt;em&gt;strategic competition&lt;/em&gt; per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Strategy vs. algorithm&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The operative assumption in the original question is that play vs. a sentient actor requires on-the-fly decision-making, whereas cooperative play vs. random game events can necessarily be reduced to a script you can follow to win. I think this is an error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even when the adversity they face in the game is tied to something as simple and unthinking as the luck of the draw, the human players may still have to adjust their actions to the unpredictably changing game state.&lt;/strong&gt; To use your Dominion example, simply knowing what an optimal strategy looks like in the abstract doesn't free you from having to adjust your turn-by-turn plays to make the best use of the cards you've actually drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could try to articulate all these tricks into a single defined &amp;quot;strategy,&amp;quot; but for many games this hypothetical script will be so complex that a human player couldn't simply follow it by rote. And how is this different from trying to write out a gameplan that includes ways to compensate for intelligent opponents' moves, anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Counterexamples: strategic depth without opponents&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider these examples of challenging decision-making without a human opponent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Classic solitaire games such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klondike_solitaire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klondike&lt;/a&gt; involve hidden information and strategic decisions analogous to classic multi-player card games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/823/lord-of-the-rings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Knizia's &lt;em&gt;Lord of the Rings&lt;/em&gt; board game&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative board game with a random element (some tiles in a bag) as the the source of adversity. It has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3819/lord-of-the-rings-sauron&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an expansion that allows a player to assume the role of the antagonist&lt;/a&gt;; this tends to increase the difficulty a bit since the Sauron player is actively choosing the most punishing outcome, but either mode involves &lt;strong&gt;qualitatively similar gameplay and strategic decision-making&lt;/strong&gt; for the ringbearer players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160117184720/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/sf/165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a casual variant of Magic: the Gathering&lt;/a&gt; where players team up against a random deck representing a zombie horde. The horde just immediately casts whatever it topdecks and always attacks with all of its guys. There are certain things the horde can't do (play targeted removal, for instance), but the players still have to make strategic decisions about resource utilization, attack vs. defense, and timing their spells that are qualitatively similar to the decisions involved in a normal game of Magic. This is a mirror of the situation above: a normally head-to-head game can be played as a cooperative game against a random element, with qualitatively similar gameplay and strategic decision-making.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Video game AI opponents are often actually fairly simple actors just following a generally-good strategy. Despite not being particularly reactive to the actions of the human players, these rather simple opponents can still present a significant challenge to them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is strategic thinking an integral part of all board games?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, I think your question presupposes too much about games and why people play them. Board games, like all games, can provide a variety of experiences, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overcoming a challenge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Proving yourself against your peers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solving a puzzle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The thrill of gambling&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The visual and tactile pleasure of gameplay (think about how much enjoyment miniatures gamers get from the look and feel of their pieces)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Socializing with your friends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experiencing the narrative of play (drama and resolution, for instance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among these, &lt;strong&gt;overcoming challenges is not always and necessarily the game's or players' primary goal&lt;/strong&gt;. Nor is strategic play the only way to experience a challenge: games can easily involve physical and mental tests that don't depend on analysis and planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some products traditionally labeled &amp;quot;board games&amp;quot; don't actually put much emphasis on overcoming challenges&lt;/strong&gt;. Candyland is, of course, the archetypical extreme example. Some game designers and purists may say that such board games aren't really &amp;quot;games,&amp;quot; but that is their popularly-accepted label.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="19463" LastEditDate="2021-03-28T05:38:29.090" LastActivityDate="2021-03-28T05:38:29.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1262" CreationDate="2012-05-18T09:22:07.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe it's just the people I play with, but Cities are quite useful if there are cursing cards sitting around (e.g. Witch or Sea Hag). In my experience, especially with four players, Curse piles can empty pretty quickly, even if Provinces are going at a decent rate and no other pile is close to emptying. Of course, the best defence is a good offence, so considering the cost it may be more worth grabbing a Witch than a City, but nevertheless they can be worth a punt in a Curse-heavy game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T09:22:07.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2012-05-18T09:35:15.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not going to better Alex P's great answer, but I just thought I'd throw in a comment: it depends entirely on what you consider a game to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the question, it sounds like you consider a game to be a strategic competition between participants (nothing wrong with this view of course!). In this case, cooperative games can become barely a game at best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider a game to be a social tool, a prompt for people to interact and reason things out (together or not), then cooperative games are already that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not criticising your views (or anyone else's), but based on the question and the fact that you asked it, I think the answer to your question - with tongue in cheek - is &quot;For you, nothing!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T19:17:09.640" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T19:17:09.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7389" CreationDate="2012-05-18T09:55:48.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion base Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Discard&quot; – unless otherwise specified, discarded cards are &lt;strong&gt;from the player’s&#xA;  hand&lt;/strong&gt;. When a player discards a card, he places the discarded card face-up&#xA;  onto his Discard pile. When discarding several cards at once, the player&#xA;  need not show all cards he is discarding to his opponents, but player may&#xA;  need to show how many cards he is discarding (for example, when&#xA;  playing the Cellar). The top card of a player’s Discard pile is always visible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you are not &lt;em&gt;discarding&lt;/em&gt; the Tunnels in your deck when you activate the Chancellor: you are simply moving them in the Discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="794" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T09:55:48.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7351" CreationDate="2012-05-18T13:04:46.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5651920#5651920&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BGG post&lt;/a&gt; you were correct in your initial interpretation and the &quot;one&quot; is a misprint:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;unfortunately it was a misprint on the Taberna tile. [...] The correct symbol is the one printed on the board, [...] you are not restricted, you can use [the Taberna] as many times as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, the rules are correct. You can buy any goods that you would not otherwise be able to buy (because you can produce them), but within the limitations of the current market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T13:04:46.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7400" CreationDate="2012-05-18T16:10:02.483" Score="12" ViewCount="14984" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I should note I've only played Arkham Horror once in a 2 player game and loved it. I am curious if the game is even survivable, and if so, what factors contribute to that success? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am delighted at the thought that all players eventually get devoured by the Eldar Gods, and &quot;winning&quot; consists of having fun and the game going a long time. Seems much like life itself, to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at least one player can survive, I am guessing that several factors would help, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of luck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of cooperation among players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at least one player can survive, what other factors have you found contribute to that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T16:26:15.593" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T17:04:45.467" Title="What is a solid basic strategy for surviving Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7626" CreationDate="2012-05-18T16:56:23.847" Score="22" ViewCount="7490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before joining the B&amp;amp;CG community, I had never heard the phrase &quot;Gateway Game.&quot; The quintessential examples of Settlers of Catan, Ticket to Ride, and Carcassonne gives me a rough idea but Googling did not yield a more precise definition. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a Gateway Game? To help refine the definition: Why are (or are not) the following borderline cases considered Gateway games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades (a card game which is a Gateway to Bridge, for some).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2995" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T05:27:24.193" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T15:06:34.593" Title="What is a Gateway Game?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7398" CreationDate="2012-05-18T16:59:40.847" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;People survive, and quite frequently as well. Here's a Google Doc of recorded games that a guy on the FFG forums has been keeping. It's got some pretty interesting statistics on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzdEszdXpoRVJQNGltTU5wMi1qWEJnQkE#gid=2&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzdEszdXpoRVJQNGltTU5wMi1qWEJnQkE#gid=2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far a good strategies go, it's pretty simple. As you can see from the speadsheet, games with more investigators generally have a higher rate of success than games with less investigators. I've found that four investigators is generally a good number to play with. Any more and people can get bored with down time, any less and there's a good chance there's too much going on to take care of. It's also a nice middle ground for the number of gates that are allowed to be open, the number of monsters in Arkaham, the number of monsters in the outskirts, and you still only have one monster appearing per gate opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to keep the gate count under control. Even if you can't seal a gate, make sure you have people going through gates so they have enough time to travel through and close without hitting the limit. Assuming one new gate per turn is a bit high, but it's a good rate to keep in mind for higher player games. I've had games end on the second turn in an 8-player game just due to unlucky Arkham encounters that opened gates. It can sneak up on you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which gates you seal/close is also important. It's slightly less predictable with expansion boards added in, but in the base set you have the 'Big 4': Independence Square, The Witch House, Unvisted Isle, and the Woods. These locations have gates that open significantly more frequently than other locations. If you close a gate here without sealing, odds are there's going to be another gate there soon enough, which adds a doom token to the track. Those are also the locations where Monster surges are more likely to happen. Conversely, locations such as the Historical Society, the Lodge, Hibb's Roadhouse, and the Science building, are targeted by Mythos Cards much less frequenty; it's less dicey to close those gates without sealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may think it's important to have a dedicated monster killer (or at least someone good at it), and it definitely helps, but you can get by without it. Don't be afraid to spend a clue token or two to sneak past a monster guarding a gate so you don't have to deal with it. Also, don't forget that closing a gate removes all monsters with the matching symbol from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get sucked into spending all your clues to pass a check! I've seen so many instances where a player just decides, &quot;Well, I've already spent two, might as well spend more...&quot; only to burn their entire clue pile and have nothing to show for it at the end. Don't be afraid to fail a check! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a decent amount of health before wandering into an Other World. Don't go into R'yleh with one Sanity and one Stamina. And please don't go into Unknown Kadath with one Sanity and one Stamina. If you're going for a seal, having more than five clues going in helps, obviously. The extra buffer isn't necessary, but it's comforting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will swear by getting retainers from the newspaper or bank loans to get cash to buy weapons, but more often than not my group can get by just fine with our starting equipment and the odds and ends we pick up while playing. Encounters spent trying to get money and good items could be spent getting clues, either off of the board or from random encounters. It's up to you to decide what would be more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T16:59:40.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7398" CreationDate="2012-05-18T17:04:45.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can totally win. I win most of my games, playing with the same friend. (Most as in definitely more than half.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of cooperation? Yes, of course. It's a cooperative game, and if you're not coordinating so as to take full advantage of every investigator, you're going to have a rough time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More players are helpful too, up to a point. Generally, I think that four investigators is the easiest number, followed by three. Note that you can still just have two players, each of them playing as two investigators. (This is what my friend and I do.) The difficulty jumps up at five investigators (more monsters appear). Additionally cooperation tends to go downhill with sufficiently many players; discussions start taking longer, people get tired, people get distracted, people don't pay attention to the entire game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luck is certainly a factor, but you can often play in such a way that you have at least a fighting chance as long as you don't get really unlucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a very common house rule of taking two investigators and choosing one; this can help avoid awkward cases where the investigators are too similar. For example, if everyone has high sanity and low stamina, and you might be unable to take out a monster that's blocking off important locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biggest piece of advice, though, is just to keep playing. Having a general sense of the game is also extremely important. You'll do much better if your decisions are informed by some overall strategy, not just a general goal of staying alive. It's hard to give blanket advice about all the little decisions you're going to make, but you'll develop instincts about them as you play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the first things you need to be able to do is decide which victory condition you're aiming for. With some Ancient Ones, your best shot is frequently to defeat them in battle, so it's important to make sure you've stocked up on the appropriate type of weapons, and whatever is necessary to survive their attacks. Going for six seals, if it's possible, is generally a bit friendlier than trying to close all the gates, since closing all the gates often relies on two players closing two gates on the same turn, so you can get screwed over if one of them gets delayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also good to develop a sense of which locations most commonly have gates appear, so you know which ones to seal and perhaps which clue tokens to grab first, and which locations tend to have friendly or painful encounters. (This includes the other worlds!) And don't forget, the board has symbols next to the locations reminding you what kinds of rewards they might provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go on, but the flavor of the advice will be the same: keep on playing, keep cooperating, and you'll start finding it easier. (And then you'll still have games every now and then where you're completely destroyed by turn 6. Oh well.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T17:04:45.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2012-05-18T17:06:13.187" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little googling brought up &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/9937/gateway-board-games&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this definition&lt;/a&gt;, paraphrased:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gateway game is a game that you can use to introduce non-gamers to the world of 'real', i.e. complex games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gateway game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has good replay value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has nice game components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;is good for mixed age groups&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T17:06:13.187" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1262" CreationDate="2012-05-18T17:32:41.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule is to buy Cities early if you see cards or card sets that may cause piles to empty early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some such sets are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Curse-giving cards - Causes Curse pile to empty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Village (Base) / Fishing Village (Seaside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swindler (Intrigue) - Has a tendency to cause Duchy pile to empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighthouse (Seaside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treasure Map (Seaside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pirate Ship (Seaside)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forge (Prosperity) - Has a tendency to cause mid-cost card piles to empty as fodder for forging Colonies. Duchy in particular.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trader (Hinterlands) - causes Silver pile to empty... may depend on the player group, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island (Seaside) and Saboteur (Intrigue).  Causes Island pile to empty (to protect Victory cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mine (Base) and Platinum (Prosperity).  Causes Platinum pile to empty, although this is slower due to needing to go through Golds first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defense cards and destructive attack cards.  Causes defense card pile to empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tunnel (Hinterlands) and any card that lets you discard cards (Hamlet, Horse Traders, Inn, Oracle, Oasis). Causes Tunnel pile to empty, the other card pile to empty, and Golds to empty more quickly than usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Peddler (Prosperity) and +Actions/+Cards cards (or Duration cards) and +Buy cards.  Causes Peddler pile to empty (Peddlers go down $2 for each action in play).  Province / Colony (Prosperity) cards will also empty more quickly if Expand (Prosperity) or Forge (Prosperity) are also in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be others, but they likely depend on the players you're playing against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T17:32:41.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7331" CreationDate="2012-05-18T17:52:24.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been errata'd in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Dust-Warfare/Support/Dust_Warfare_FAQ_High.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.  Black Ops is now Shared and a unit that is joined to Bazooka Joe will automatically have the rule extended to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2012-05-18T18:04:24.917" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T18:04:24.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7408" CreationDate="2012-05-18T23:16:00.467" Score="15" ViewCount="69775" Body="&lt;p&gt;In checkers, what is supposed to happen when a piece gets to the other side of the board and becomes a king? Does the move end? Can the piece continue to skip in the same turn it becomes a king? Can it choose not to be kinged and skip again? I've looked up a couple of different rules and I can't really find any sort of set rules for this. What is the actual rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-05-19T02:19:10.767" LastActivityDate="2017-08-28T04:21:13.373" Title="What happens when a piece is kinged in checkers?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7387" CreationDate="2012-05-18T23:58:48.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right; Necrons are awfully powerful.  WH:40K isn't as carefully balanced as it should be.  Their downsides are mainly high points-cost, but they also have less variety than other armies, and tend not to be terribly mobile (this may have changed in the 5th edition codex, but it was certainly the case before).  Their anti-vehicle options tend to be sub-par (and less varied) than other races.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2864" LastActivityDate="2012-05-18T23:58:48.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7406" CreationDate="2012-05-19T00:29:04.320" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Checkers&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on checkers&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player's piece jumps into the kings row, the current move terminates; having just been crowned, the piece cannot continue on by jumping back out (as in a multiple jump), until the next move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T00:29:04.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7410" CreationDate="2012-05-19T01:47:58.367" Score="4" ViewCount="1087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought this game last week and had a question (and BGG couldn't help...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When read at face value, it would seem that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Each player who has more than 7 resources must discard all excess resources&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;would require discarding &lt;em&gt;down to seven cards&lt;/em&gt; when this event occurs. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SfC_Rules_042511.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rules (.pdf)&lt;/a&gt; don't really say anything to enforce (or refute) this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But having played &lt;strong&gt;Settlers&lt;/strong&gt;, I wonder if the intent is to discard &lt;em&gt;half&lt;/em&gt; (rounding down)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How should this be treated?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T23:49:45.313" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T23:49:45.313" Title="&quot;Brigand Attack&quot; (when upgrading Settlement --&gt; City)" Tags="|struggle-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7409" CreationDate="2012-05-19T03:19:11.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card is poorly worded. It should probably say, &quot;Each player who has more than 7 resources must discard all resources in excess of 7.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playcatan.com/cow-instructions/struggle-for-catan.html&quot;&gt;Official Catan Game Portal&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brigand Attack: Players who have more than 7 resources cards discard all cards in excess of 7. Afterwards, the destiny card is flipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T03:19:11.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7412" CreationDate="2012-05-19T09:44:51.490" Score="5" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new rules for the &quot;Gloom&quot; expansion deck &quot;Unhappy homes&quot; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;A blue-themed mystery card is the only card that can be placed on a Residence and can be placed on any Residence as either of your two plays&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried playing with this expansion deck with two of us last night but this new rule/deck proved problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we interpret that rule literally we cannot play death cards on a Residence ever and they  don't have to be killed to edit the game in the usual way. At first sight this seems to make sense - &quot;killing&quot; a Residence sounds odd and the blue-themed mystery cards have buffs that apply to the whole family, but two things make this seem wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The reverse of the residence cards have death messages exactly like the rest of the families.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blue-themed mystery cards have pathos points which seem pointless if you can't kill the residence because pathos points on living characters count for nothing according to the original rules and there's no exception to this in the expansion deck rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of this we tried to interpret this rule as permitting death cards also and requiring the death of a residence exactly like any family member, but with two players we twice played a full game where neither player was successfully able to play a blue-themed mystery card, due to the other requirements of these cards, and so were unable to kill the residences because they didn't have negative pathos points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We gave up trying to kill the residences in the end both times because we each reached a stage where our entire turns consisted of discarding cards to get new ones when we draw back up, which frankly got a bit dull quite quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a sensible interpretation of the new rules? What's the purpose of the pathos points on the blue-themed mystery cards if the residences are unkillable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2865" LastEditorUserId="1174" LastEditDate="2013-01-13T20:51:56.993" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T20:51:56.993" Title="Unhappy homes gloom expansion rules" Tags="|gloom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7411" CreationDate="2012-05-19T23:07:45.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's a sensible interpretation of the new rules?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume you mean the rule you quoted above. Mystery Cards are a new card type that is available in Gloom: Unhappy Homes. Mystery Cards unlike Modifiers, Events, or Untimely Deaths may be placed on Locations. Gloom's card components are mostly transparent, but the parts that are not, cover up previous cards that were played before the current one (and remove those previous effects if they are covered). From the rules on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/pdf_storage/GloomHouses.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Atlas Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can't play Modifiers, Events, or Untimely Deaths on a Location. Nothing can take your house rule away from you, so enjoy it while you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the purpose of the pathos points on the blue-themed mystery cards if the residences are unkillable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those points count towards a families final total. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/product_tables/AG1252.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Mystery is the only card that can be placed on a Residence (and only a Residence), and can be placed on any Residence as either of your two plays. It gives that Residence's player a special effect and Pathos points that count toward his final Family Value. A Mystery remains even if the requirements for playing it are lost. You may discard a Mystery from your hand as a free play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-19T23:07:45.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7415" CreationDate="2012-05-20T03:17:55.370" Score="5" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son is convinced that it's best to go last in Vinci because you have the more complete information of seeing where other players have started their civilizations and you always get last turn (like having home field advantage in baseball). I see these 2 advantages, but I wonder if these outweigh the disadvantages such as not having first pick on civilizations, not being the first to go into decline, and perhaps other factors I haven't even considered (we're all new to the game). So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it better to go first, last, in between, or is the game so well balanced that it hardly matters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2995" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T05:27:18.173" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T05:27:18.173" Title="Is it better to go first or last in Vinci?" Tags="|small-world|vinci|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2012-05-20T06:16:22.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very difficult question to answer because so much of it depends on your experience, play-style, and how the random elements of the game turn out.  These games have sufficient complexity that, based on how they are played by humans, going either first or last might be an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's certain that one's play-style preferences will affect this decision.  If you are one who more often likes to find a best response to your opponent's moves, then going later will be 'better' since it suits your play-style, this you'll win more often going later than going earlier.  However, if you're one who prefers to be more strategic, going earlier might yield you more wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have the choice of consistently going in a certain order, keep choosing the one you have the most experience with.  This will enable you to remove one variable of the game, and allow you to improve your skill in the game faster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There ARE certain combinations of races and powers that are clearly better, especially in terms of how they interact, than others.  This means that in certain games, it will be more advantageous to grab them, thus go earlier.  However, it's not at all clear that these situations happen often enough to offset any advantages (if they exist) from going later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T06:16:22.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7413" CreationDate="2012-05-20T15:01:22.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be difficult to measure, especially when you add in more than two players. Just examining two players for a moment here. It is usually more advantageous to go first during the first turn, because you get first race selection. After choosing your race, the new selection is revealed. If your opponent was only allowed a single turn, you could calculate the best move for every race before the revealed race, and determine the best move possible (after the new race is revealed, you can add it's best move into your calculations). If you only played one round, you will get the first attempt to take empty territory, and your opponent might have to attack you to take territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception to the above would be when a powerful race is revealed. This is less likely to happen when compared to the 6 starting revealed races.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An examination of the last turn is similar. The player who is going first has the opportunity to take any unclaimed regions (if any) before his opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, this is a game of open information. Going first is an advantage in 2-player, because you could calculate your optimum move and your opponents optimum move that turn. In subsequent turns, you will get the first opportunity to go into decline. The only random events (race selection) favor the first player. In multiplayer though, who each person decides to attack has probably a greater effect on winning. If every player played optimally, I think the first player would still have the advantage most of the time, but that is a much more difficult question to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-20T15:01:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7418" CreationDate="2012-05-20T21:35:11.420" Score="16" ViewCount="15987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Graveyard-based strategies are common in casual and tournament MTG. The graveyard offers players easy ways to cheat on costs (e.g. Reanimator), grind out incremental advantage (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSun%20Titan%5d&quot;&gt;Sun Titan&lt;/a&gt; decks, Zombies with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGravecrawler%5d&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt;), set up infinite combos (e.g. Melira Pod in Modern, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSharuum%5d&quot;&gt;Sharuum&lt;/a&gt; EDH), or short-circuit most of &quot;normal&quot; Magic altogether (Manaless Dredge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Wizards of the Coast also prints powerful hate cards to hold graveyard decks in check, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeyline%20of%20the%20Void%5d&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRelic%20of%20Progenitus%5d&quot;&gt;Relic of Progenitus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTormod%27s%5d%2b%5bCrypt%5d&quot;&gt;Tormod&amp;#39;s Crypt&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNihil%20Spellbomb%5d&quot;&gt;Nihil Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrafdigger%27s%5d%2b%5bCage%5d&quot;&gt;Grafdigger&amp;#39;s Cage&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJund%20Charm%5d&quot;&gt;Jund Charm&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScavenging%20Ooze%5d&quot;&gt;Scavenging Ooze&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of running a fun and powerful deck is making sure you don't just fold to hate immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the most common and successful strategies for playing around graveyard hate, especially for decks with a graveyard-based combo element?&lt;/strong&gt; I am interested in both deckbuilding solutions (including sideboarding, of course) and in-play tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-03-09T15:51:52.037" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T04:34:05.740" Title="How can I play around graveyard hate?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7416" CreationDate="2012-05-20T23:11:17.310" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the format, you can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) be faster than the hater (except against Leyline of course, only white control helps against that): The fastest combo is Swamp, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Putrid%20Imp&quot;&gt;Putrid Imp&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entomb&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt;, discard, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exhume&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) control your opponent's solutions. Black is notoriously bad at dealing with artifacts and enchantments, so you probably need white (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disenchant&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt;) and/or blue (countering) as well. Google &amp;quot;reanimator control&amp;quot; for deck lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, control typically conflicts with Reanimator's strategy of bringing a fat guy on the table as soon as possible. You either need to spend a turn removing a hate card, or you need to keep enough mana open to counter one. Trying to be faster loses against &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt;, and possibly against cheap permanent or instant-speed graveyard removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you should always try to discard your fat guy and reanimate it in one go if possible. Give the opponent as little an opening as possible. But if you go against a dedicated graveyard hate sideboard, you're going to have a tough time either way, because as you already pointed out with your list of hate cards, all those cards are cheap and have either a static or an instant-speed activated hate ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the positive side: when going the counter route, the hoser spells' low costs and specific type can be to your advantage. Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Snare&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mental%20Misstep&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Annul&quot;&gt;Annul&lt;/a&gt; protect your graveyard for minimal costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-05-21T15:18:13.917" LastActivityDate="2012-05-21T15:18:13.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7416" CreationDate="2012-05-21T12:07:01.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best is of course to go off before your opponent manages to get their hate cards into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use all-round disruption (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForce%20of%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThoughtseize%5d&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;), answers for their hate (spot removal, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMental%20Misstep%5d&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt;) or specific answers for their win con to delay them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big problem comes when they have different types of graveyard hate against you so you can't bring in that perfect card against it. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMental%20Misstep%5d&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDaze%5d&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt;, FoW and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSnuff%20Out%5d&quot;&gt;Snuff Out&lt;/a&gt; are examples of &quot;free&quot; spells that might be useful. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKrosan%20Grip%5d&quot;&gt;Krosan Grip&lt;/a&gt; can be good against Relics and Crypts, though it's quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're up against a &quot;one shot hate&quot; you can try to set yourself up to be able to do two shots, first forcing your opponent to use the hate card and then going off. Some people (me back in the day) sideboard wrong and slow down their own deck quite a bit, which gives you extra time to set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2019-03-29T11:52:33.253" LastActivityDate="2019-03-29T11:52:33.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7420" CreationDate="2012-05-21T13:32:39.353" Score="-1" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realise there is probably no way to get an accurate figure, just looking for a ballpark estimate of approximately how many board games there are out there, and how many of those involve dice rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2692" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T01:35:57.393" Title="What percentage of board games on the market involve dice?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7419" CreationDate="2012-05-21T14:19:34.363" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; has 58627 games listed*, and 11132 of them are marked with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2072/dice-rolling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dice-rolling mechanic&lt;/a&gt;** . So that's 19% - but of course, there's no guarantee that all of the games were appropriately tagged, so treat it as a lower bound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're curious about more specific categories, you can used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/advsearch/boardgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;advanced search&lt;/a&gt; and limit it to games with or without dice rolling with some other restrictions. But it maxes out at 1000 results (ten pages), and doesn't count them for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&#xA;* Hover over &quot;browse&quot; on the home page &lt;br&gt;&#xA;** 1114 pages of &quot;linked items&quot;, 10 per page, 2 on the last page.&#xA;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T01:35:57.393" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T01:35:57.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-21T21:22:57.173" Score="9" ViewCount="2834" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a formal format for documenting the game design process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you answer with &quot;The Game Design Document (GDD), of course!&quot;, in my opinion (and lots of people's opinions as well, I think) a GDD is used for presenting a finalized product, and not documenting the actual game design process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need is a tool to aid me in the process of designing a game. It has to have some sort of categorization of ideas (e.g. in the set of elements that Greg Costikyan has proposed, it could have sections for goals, resources, challenges, etc., although it doesn't necessarily have to fit Costikyan's ideas), it has to be aimed towards the iterative design process (which means that it has to have inherent non-linear capabilities, non-existent in the GDD format) and it has to be as universal as possible (suitable for both video games or board games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If such a tool doesn't exist, I propose to start a collaborative effort from the game designer community, working towards creating it, producing a tool that's as standard and universal as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Although the formalization of the game design process has been proposed several times, the closest I could find to a formal format is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamedesigntools.blogspot.mx/2011/04/quick-concept-format-method-for.html&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2867" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T17:56:28.083" Title="Formal Format for Documenting the Game Design Process" Tags="|game-design|game-development|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7421" CreationDate="2012-05-22T02:37:05.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this won't answer your question either, but it might get us closer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, a short glance at Jason Bakker's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamasutra.com/blogs/JasonBakker/20090604/84211/A_GDD_Template_for_the_Indie_Developer.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;A GDD Template for the Indie Developer&quot;&lt;/a&gt; will stress the need for Breaking down components, keeping it simple, lists are a great tool for knowing what you'll do (as in a To Do or shopping list). Analysis itself being key in the process of game creation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, I would suggest a good look at Stone Librande's suggestion of &lt;a href=&quot;http://stonetronix.com/gameconnection-2011/OnePageDesigns-GC-2011.ppt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;One Page Designs&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. Stressing the need to show the relationship between elements in a more visual way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I agree with Steven, no tool will ever fit all needs. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly, I would add a key component to the process of Game Design: &lt;strong&gt;Document Design&lt;/strong&gt; itself. So we keep this ever-evolving and so that every project has the right document to it. Making the document is the process itself. A living document, changing all along the project.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2868" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T02:37:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2012-05-22T06:39:02.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The maximum theoretical score is 338.&lt;/strong&gt; I previously answered the question for &lt;strong&gt;1st Edition&lt;/strong&gt; rules (cities only scored once by farmers), so here is my second stab at this question. First, it should be rather clear to everyone that since there are only 72 tiles and one is the starting tile, that the maximum number of scoring opportunities is 36 if you go first. You can only score by placing a meeple on your turn, regardless of whether you our your opponent lay the tile that actually scores that meeple. It should also be clear that the optimal score consists of scoring the highest possible points for each meeple that you can score. Here are the maximum scoring possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x &lt;strong&gt;Long Road&lt;/strong&gt;: A long road will score &lt;strong&gt;32 pts.&lt;/strong&gt; + &lt;strong&gt;2 pts.&lt;/strong&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;34 pts.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x &lt;strong&gt;Big Farm&lt;/strong&gt;: A Big Farm will score &lt;strong&gt;3 pts.&lt;/strong&gt; x &lt;strong&gt;15 cities&lt;/strong&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;45 pts.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6x &lt;strong&gt;Cloister&lt;/strong&gt;: A Cloister will score &lt;strong&gt;9 pts.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15x &lt;strong&gt;Cities&lt;/strong&gt;: Scoring all 15 cities is worth 2x (&lt;strong&gt;10 pts (pennant)&lt;/strong&gt; + &lt;strong&gt;48 pts (city tiles))&lt;/strong&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;116 pts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5x &lt;strong&gt;Small Farm&lt;/strong&gt;: A small farm will score &lt;strong&gt;3 pts.&lt;/strong&gt; x &lt;strong&gt;2 cities&lt;/strong&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;6 pts.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7x &lt;strong&gt;Short Road&lt;/strong&gt;: A short road will score &lt;strong&gt;1 pts.&lt;/strong&gt; x &lt;strong&gt;2 road tiles&lt;/strong&gt; = &lt;strong&gt;2 pts.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total Score = 34 + 2x45 + 6x9 + 116 + 5x6 + 7x2 = &lt;strong&gt;338 points&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes regarding average score per &lt;strong&gt;Meeple&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Big Farm requires that you have completed 15 cities. The maximum number of Big Farms is two. Imagine the two farms as either Inside/Outside, Left/Right, Up/Down, etc. In the graph below, the Big Farms would be &lt;strong&gt;A and B&lt;/strong&gt; and there would be 15 nodes in-between them. This can be shown to be true using &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/14723/3-utilities-3-houses-puzzle&quot;&gt;Euler's Theorm&lt;/a&gt;, regarding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3_utilities_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;K(3,3) Utility Graph problem&lt;/a&gt;. Average points ~10.72. This calculation comes from total city points (116) + (90) 2 Big Farms + (30) 5 Small Farms = (236 pts/(15 Knight+7 Farmer=22 Meeples))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t9w1h.png&quot; alt=&quot;K(3,3) impossible planar graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum number of small farms is 5, since you only have 7 Meeples and 2 will be unavailable as Big Farmers. These small farms will sit like &lt;strong&gt;node C&lt;/strong&gt;, in-between two cities only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Long Road requires using all non-terminating road tiles (32), and two road tiles that dead-end into a city/cloister. Constructing a single longest road is not necessary to find a highest scoring map, as long as any non-terminating road tiles are included in the &lt;strong&gt;Short Roads&lt;/strong&gt; you score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum number of cities is 15 (with one unused edge). Average points ~7.73.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum number of Cloisters is 6. Average points 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum number of Short Roads is all Meeples minus those previously used with higher average scores (36 - (1+2+6+15+5)) = 7 Meeples. As noted earlier, these short roads can use non-terminating segments that were not used in the Long Road scoring. The only thing required to obtain the highest score possible is that all 32x non-terminating road tiles are used among the 8x Long/Short Road meeples. Average score for all 8 road meeples 48 / 8 = 6 pts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:19:19.487" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T13:47:57.730" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7426" CreationDate="2012-05-22T08:54:12.183" Score="8" ViewCount="16600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only been able to find comparison of points/price ratio of single armies. What I'm looking for are the best quality models (number of models/box, size of models etc.) for the lowest price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, which armies (both in Warhammer Fantasy and Warhammer 40k) are best for a modeller/painter like me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Please don't answer that the best one is the one I find most beautiful :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2870" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T16:11:12.630" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T22:10:31.867" Title="What is the most cost effective Warhammer box set based on size and number of models?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|miniatures|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2012-05-22T11:44:37.957" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;40K-wise, there are a few builds that you can do that are relatively cost effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the marine variants tend to get you a full army for the least cash.  Xenos armies tend to have much cheaper point cost units that are still equivalent to Marine cost in cash money.   Of the marines, Space Wolves and Grey Knights are probably the cheapest to build.  They have some high points cost units that are worth every point in competitive game terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Draigowing Grey Knight build is the most cash efficient list out of those two options.  Draigo, a Librarian, and two 10 man squads of Paladins will cost you about $250 and can be up to 1850 points depending on how you kit the Paladins out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm less familiar with Fantasy, but I've always heard that High elves tend to be a good balance of cash cost and points cost.  Ogre Kingdoms might also be a good choice given their lower model count.  However, even a cheap Fantasy army will cost you 3x as much as a cheap 40K army given the higher model counts required for that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since on re-reading the original post, the question is about &lt;em&gt;models&lt;/em&gt; and not &lt;em&gt;armies&lt;/em&gt; I would say that most of the plastic box sets are actually fairly equal in value.  You usually get 10 small models or 5 more complex models for 25-35 dollars.  Older kits tend to have less of the trimmings; newer ones(such as ones for Blood Angels, Grey Knights, Dark Eldar, and Necrons) have more alternate upgrade options and tend to let you build more than one unit type from the box. Plastic Kits in the 50-60 dollar range all tend to be larger more complex models.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only place where you are probably going to get a little more for you money is with basic transport vehicles.  These are usually costed a little lower at the $35 price point.  Though these tend to be the most boring of the vehicle types.  Basic Fantasy troops boxes will also tend to have more models in them at the cost of simpler sculpts.  Battleforce boxes can also save you about 15% over buying models individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything Finecast is a little pricey and you wont get as much model for your money.  Unfortunately some of their best looking models have been converted to Fincast already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GW is pretty consistent with their pricing in this way.  If you see two boxes both marked at $35 you're probably going to get a pretty equivalent value--slightly skewed towards the newer kits.  GW's basic product value isn't so bad, it's always been the amount of things you need to buy to play the game that's the trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, unfortunately, the answer is whatever you think looks coolest ;)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2012-05-22T12:44:45.010" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T12:44:45.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7436" CreationDate="2012-05-22T15:11:10.217" Score="6" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see this question was partially answered on B&amp;amp;CG for &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7/there-seem-to-be-several-different-scoring-systems-for-fields-cities-in-carcasso&quot;&gt;scoring differences between the 3 versions of Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;. Are there any other differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T17:20:03.117" Title="What are the differences between the 3 versions of Carcassonne?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2012-05-22T15:23:24.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If cost is your primary concern and which army is a secondary concern, consider a local dealer-sponsored auction or eBay. One local dealer has 2-4 auctions a year where local players offer armies they don't play anymore or armies they started but never finished. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some models offered are already painted, some are not. I understand that a product called &quot;Simple Green&quot; is effective at removing paint from previously painted models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen many unopened boxes offered up at auction, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:23:24.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7032" CreationDate="2012-05-22T15:38:58.793" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said yourself, you Pathed the Clique &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; its champion trigger resolves, so it would make little sense to assume that your opponent still exiles another faerie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent had exiled another faerie, then of course the tap-down ability would apply, but since the champion trigger didn´t even resolve, there also is nothing to tap-down - simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2871" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T15:38:58.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7421" CreationDate="2012-05-22T17:56:28.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happened to come across this post in my daily search for innovative game design ideas. You might want to try this from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lostgarden.com/search?q=game%20design%20log&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lost garden&lt;/a&gt;. I am curious as to what you think? The original document you posted I use for developing large quantities of game concepts, so I am not sure if it exactly ideal for describing the design process. I would be interested though in helping to create a template for documenting the game design process. If your looking for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamedesigntools.blogspot.com/2010/05/game-concept-and-design-document.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game design document template&lt;/a&gt; you try this one out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2874" LastActivityDate="2012-05-22T17:56:28.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7433" CreationDate="2012-05-22T21:39:27.033" Score="5" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does only the first non-front unit in a skirmish add its support attack, or do all of them? If I've got, say, one scourge (9 attack) and two devourers (+2 support) going up against a single carrier, is the total attack 11 or 13?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2875" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T02:24:29.033" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T02:39:50.197" Title="How many units can support in Starcraft TBG?" Tags="|starcraft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7435" CreationDate="2012-05-23T01:26:48.083" Score="5" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Warmachine/Hordes, there are many models which have the 'Tough' rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TOUGH:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  When this model is disabled, roll a d6.  On a 5 or 6, this model heals&#xA;  1 damage point, is no longer disabled, and is knocked down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also attacks which deal the 'Fire' continuous effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FIRE:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  A model hit by this attack suffers the Fire continuous effect, which sets it on fire.  A&#xA;  model on fire suffers a POW 12 damage roll each turn during its controller's Maintenance &#xA;  Phase until the continuous effect expires.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other effects, all subject to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CONTINUOUS EFFECTS:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Continuous effects remain on a model and have the potential to damage or affect it in some other way on subsequent turns.  [...] Continuous effects do not require fury points for upkeep and cannot be removed voluntarily.  Remove a continuous effect only when it expires, a special situation causes it to end, or the affected model is removed from the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a model is hit with an attack that would cause it to gain the Fire continuous effect, and that attack kills it, that model is entitled to a 'tough' roll.  If it makes the roll, is it still susceptible to the Fire effect?  Being disabled means it is about to be removed from the table which would cause the effect to expire, but then it survives.  Does the fire go out before the tough roll or does the tough roll prevent the fire from going out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T01:03:28.573" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T01:03:28.573" Title="If you're too Tough to die, do you still burn?" Tags="|warmachine|hordes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7431" CreationDate="2012-05-23T01:27:50.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All of them.&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/StarCraft/StarCraft_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; appear to be quite clear on this matter (page 27).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each supporting unit is then, one at a time, assigned to any of the skirmishes. Every supporting unit can be assigned to the same skirmish, or spread out among the skirmishes in &#xA;  whatever fashion the player chooses. A supporting unit adds its support value to the attack strength of the friendly front-line unit in its skirmish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important:&lt;/strong&gt; A player must assign all of his supporting units to skirmishes. That is, every unit in a battle must participate in a skirmish, either as a front-line unit or as a supporting unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 31&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Supporting Units: Each supporting unit in the skirmish adds its support strength (or other effects) to the player’s attack value. A unit’s support strength is listed on its owner’s Faction Sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only one exception that I could find, but it isn't related to the number of supporting units. It is related to a support unit being unable to target the opposing player's front-line unit (page 34).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As explained under “Compare Attack and Health Values” on page 31, a supporting unit adds its support value to its controller’s final attack value for the skirmish in which it is participating. However, this is only the case if the supporting unit is capable of targeting the opposing player’s front-line unit in that skirmish. If the supporting unit is not capable of targeting the opponent’s front-line unit, the supporting unit does not add its support value to its owner’s final attack value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T02:39:50.197" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T02:39:50.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2012-05-23T01:30:43.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assault on Black Reach.&lt;/strong&gt;  This starter set will provide you with a large number of Marine and Ork units, which will give you a variety of different unit sizes and types to paint, and even simply arrange in a suitably dramatic diorama if you so choose.  If you decide to actually play, Assault on Black Reach comes with everything you need to get started, and presents forces with two different playstyes and backstories.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T01:30:43.447" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7432" CreationDate="2012-05-23T02:12:16.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you are reduced to zero hit points, you are &lt;code&gt;disabled&lt;/code&gt;.  Before you get &lt;code&gt;boxed&lt;/code&gt; and removed from the table you have to resolve any effects triggered by being &lt;code&gt;disabled&lt;/code&gt;(I.e. &lt;code&gt;Tough&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So during your maintenance phase you roll to see if the fire goes out.  If it doesn't you take the POW 12 damage roll.  If this reduces you to zero hit points, then you are &lt;code&gt;disabled&lt;/code&gt;.  &lt;code&gt;Tough&lt;/code&gt; is triggered.  If you pass the &lt;code&gt;tough&lt;/code&gt; test you are healed back to 1 hit point.  Since your model never left the table, Fire remains In effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T14:34:20.460" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T14:34:20.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7427" CreationDate="2012-05-23T06:21:05.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the scoring differences listed, there is also the &quot;youngest player&quot; goes first rule in 1st. Edition. For a list of all differences between editions, see this excellent &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;annotated rules list and FAQ&lt;/a&gt; that covers the Basic Game and 11 expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T09:33:41.520" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T09:33:41.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7439" CreationDate="2012-05-23T13:26:21.853" Score="7" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used the RGG 1st edition scoring rules because I was unaware until recently that there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7/there-seem-to-be-several-different-scoring-systems-for-fields-cities-in-carcasso&quot;&gt;3 different scoring systems for Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;. Without having tried the (now most common) 3rd edition scoring rules, it is obvious that there is a decreased emphasis on gearing the whole game towards winning a mega farm at the end. But I'm guessing there are other less obvious ramifications I haven't thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to hear a more detailed answer to this question from those who have used both 1st and 3rd edition, both with respect to the basic set and with respect to any expansions that have been heavily impacted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is game feel and strategy different between the 1st and 3rd edition scoring rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T23:27:42.767" Title="How is game feel and strategy different between the 1st and 3rd edition scoring rules?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7441" CreationDate="2012-05-23T13:50:23.707" Score="2" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a follow on question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/144/2177&quot;&gt;Orks Mob Rule in Warhammer 40k&lt;/a&gt;. This situation is &quot;No Retreat!&quot; when a fearless unit is defeated in an assault, the fearless unit takes wounds equal to the number their side has lost in combat. I understand so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on p.44 of the WH40K 5th ed rules the last paragraph under &quot;No Retreat!&quot; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If none of the enemies involved in the combat against a fearless unit can actually hurt it, the unit does not suffer any wounds if its side is defeated in combat, and simply continues to fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the fearless unit's enemies can't actually hurt the fearless unit, then how did the fearless unit manage to lose the assault in the first place? Are the rules saying any of the fearless unit's enemies &lt;em&gt;still left standing&lt;/em&gt; after the assault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T03:39:26.127" Title="40K: No Retreat! combat assault results loophole?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7437" CreationDate="2012-05-23T14:16:03.460" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer the new rules for the simple reason that farmer scoring always used to be a &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; headache.  Doing it pasture by pasture, with the ability to simply empty the pasture of farmers once it's been scored, seems like a great timesaver.  It also feels good that pasture rules have fallen pretty much exactly in line with city-scoring rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I found about the rule change, I &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; a bit miffed about the new city scoring.  It seemed excessively cheap to be able to make a size-2 city and score 4 for it without any meeple investment.  The added consistency is welcome, though.  It's annoying when teaching any game to new players to have to say &quot;the rule is this... except in this situation, when it's this&quot;.  So this change is probably a score draw at worst.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do the changes alter things strategically?  Well, now that small cities are twice as attractive an option, you're going to get a lot more of them.  More cities equals more opportunities for farmers to make big scores.  That being the case, it's probably good that the farmer rules have been simplified; no one wants a game that makes their head hurt.  Well, most people don't.  (A lot of my friends love Ricochet Robots.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplified-rules Carcassonne retains the excellent central dynamic of the game - between scoring points on the board throughout the game, or building up a farmer presence that will allow for a big score at the end.  Novice players generally don't really get farmers, and I've often found them disappointed when they get crushed in the final tallying-up of a game they thought they were holding their own in.  By keeping farmer rules simple enough that they have a chance of understanding them during their first game, everyone is more likely to be happy.  Farmers may still be the weapon of choice for the Carcassonne expert, but explaining how exactly you won with them no longer feels so dirty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T14:16:03.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7442" CreationDate="2012-05-23T14:37:21.127" Score="9" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a little worried that my theoretical &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7375/maximum-attainable-points-for-a-single-player-in-a-two-player-game-of-carcassonn&quot;&gt;maximum Carcassonne score of 338 points&lt;/a&gt; might be in error if it was possible to score multiple completed roads during the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_48_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; say you place Thieves on a road segment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/imyU5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Road Segment&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who has a thief on a completed road scores one point for each tile in the completed road (count the number of tiles; separate segments on a tile count just once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How many points can a Thief placed on this Road Tile score?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YQHH2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Quad Tile Thief&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in believing that you have to choose a segment to one side of a crossing, and therefore you can only score 2 points here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T03:38:05.037" Title="How many points does a thief score when placed on a tile with a crossing completing multiple roads?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7438" CreationDate="2012-05-23T14:37:34.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can imagine a few situations that would trigger this rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few special rules that give a unit a +1 to combat resolution.  So if the fearless unit whiffs and gets no kills, they can still &quot;loose&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another situation is if there are two units involved in an assault with a fearless unit, and the one that can hurt the fearless unit is wiped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if the unit that assaulted was able to hurt the fearless unit only by means of Furious Charge's +1 to ST.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably a few other situations.  It's defiantly an edge case and I've never seen it come up, and I've been involved in running numerous large(30-60 person) 40K tournaments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T14:37:34.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7440" CreationDate="2012-05-23T14:54:42.100" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is my understanding of the rules. You could still score 8 points if you previously placed thieves on three of the road segments leading into the tile of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T14:54:42.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7581" CreationDate="2012-05-23T19:10:17.637" Score="4" ViewCount="3519" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eternities Map variant of Planechase&lt;/a&gt;, players lay out Plane cards in a grid and get to choose a direction when they planeswalk:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eDxv6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;An Eternities Map game in progress (first turn)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players see not only the current plane, but also adjacent planes they can go to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planechase 2012 introduces the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?type=%20%5BPhenomenon%5D&amp;amp;special=true&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phenomenon cards&lt;/a&gt; as part of the planar deck -- for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInterplanar%20Tunnel%5d&quot;&gt;Interplanar Tunnel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpatial%20Merging%5d&quot;&gt;Spatial Merging&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do Phenomenon cards work with the Eternities Map?&lt;/strong&gt; Specifically,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you use them at all?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are Phenomena resolved immediately when you reveal them from the deck, or do they go on the field and sit there (like adjacent Planes would) until a player visits one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens to a Phenomenon card after it resolves?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should triggers be stacked when resolving Phenomena?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do any of the Phenomena require functional errata to work in this format?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I would like to see authoritative official rules, but house rules (with design justification) are also acceptable.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T16:44:45.467" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T16:44:45.467" Title="How do Phenomenon cards work in the Eternities Map variant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|house-rules|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7446" CreationDate="2012-05-23T21:15:13.467" Score="7" ViewCount="3355" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding, the CMC (converted mana cost) of a token is 0.  When you sacrifice a creature with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birthing%20Pod&quot;&gt;Birthing Pod&lt;/a&gt; it adds 1 to the CMC.  So, if I sacrifice a token (any token) to Birthing Pod, can I get a creature with a CMC of 1 from my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T21:32:49.953" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:32:49.953" Title="Can I Birthing Pod a token to get a creature with a CMC of 1?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7416" CreationDate="2012-05-23T21:23:05.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out cards that allow you to prevent specific cards from being played, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nevermore&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220589&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=215103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memoricide&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of different ways, besides just counters, to control what cards a deck can play.  These are all good sideboard cards to have if you're playing something weak to cards like Nihil Spellbomb or Ratchet Bomb, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1326" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T21:30:41.903" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T21:30:41.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7444" CreationDate="2012-05-23T21:23:41.737" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are correct in the general sense. The CMC of &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; any tokens is 0. The only exception is tokens copying other cards (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cackling%20Counterpart&quot;&gt;Cackling Counterpart&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest reference is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218006&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Oracle rulings&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/1/2011  A token has a converted mana cost of 0, unless it is copying&#xA;something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/1/2011  If a creature is copying something else, its converted mana&#xA;cost is the converted mana cost of whatever it's copying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do most tokens have CMC 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5b&lt;/strong&gt; ... A token doesn't have any characteristics not defined by the spell or ability that created it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: Jade Mage has the ability &amp;quot;{2}{G}: Put a 1/1 green Saproling&#xA;creature token onto the battlefield.&amp;quot; The resultning token has no mana&#xA;cost, supertype, expansion symbol, rules text, or abilities.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, in Magic, the absence of a value isn't the same as &amp;quot;zero&amp;quot;, but the definition of &lt;em&gt;converted mana cost&lt;/em&gt; explicitly covers this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3a&lt;/strong&gt; The converted mana cost of an object with no mana cost is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-23T21:49:39.107" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T21:49:39.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2012-05-23T23:32:37.203" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at my YouTube video for a great 2 Player Settlers of Catan version: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcK5WhjRWio&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xcK5WhjRWio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Settlers of Catan” is designed for 3 or 4 players.  When played by 2 players, the game has issues that affect play if standard rules are used. Here are some of the concerns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   There is less competition for territory because there is more land per player. &#xA;Solution? Less Territory!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   In a 2 player game, once a player gets ahead in resource gathering potential (settlements and cities in good locations), it is nearly impossible for the other player to catch up.  This isn't as big of a problem in a 3 or 4 player game, since the other players tend to &quot;gang up&quot; on the leading player.  With only 2 players, one player can run away with the game in the early stages. &#xA;Solution? Robin Hood Robber!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Because there are only 2 players, there are fewer chances between turns to get Resources than when playing with 3 or 4 players. &#xA;Solution? Special features to increase chances to get Resources!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Player/player trading doesn't happen, since any trade helps your ONLY competitor. &#xA;Solution? Proportionally more Ports in Play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TWO PLAYER GAME SETUP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build the game border upside down so that no ports are showing. This will leave a Water Border, and Ports will be placed later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource Tiles: TAKE ONE OF EACH RESOURCE TILE AND TURN IT UPSIDE DOWN. &#xA;The Game Board uses the following Resource Tiles:&#xA;•   3 Forests&#xA;•   3 Fields&#xA;•   3 Pastures&#xA;•   2 Hills&#xA;•   2 Mountains&#xA;•   1 Desert&#xA;•   5 Water Cards (the upside down Resource Tiles mentioned above )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing Resource Tiles on the Game Board: Take the 13 resource tiles and the desert tile, shuffle well, and place them in one pile, face up. Place the Water tiles (the 6 unused Resource Tiles, upside down) in another pile. Start placing tiles using the “Variable Set-Up” method as per the standard Rules, but randomize the Resource and Water cards by rolling a single die:&#xA;•   Roll of 1 or 2, place an Water tile &#xA;•   Roll of 3 to 6, place a Resource tile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number Tokens: Remove one each of the 3, 4, 10 and 11 number tokens. In this game, combine the 2 and 12 number tokens and use them in tandem on one Resource hex. All other number tokens are used on the remaining individual Resource hexes (Desert Tiles and Water tiles do NOT get numbered).&#xA;NOTE: Using the 2 and 12 token combination on one resource gives the same odds as rolling a 3 or 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place all number tiles using the “Variable Set-Up” method as per the standard Rules, remembering that the Red number tokens (the 6’s and the 8’s) CANNOT be next to each other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HEX LAYOUT EXAMPLES:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Port Placement:  9 loose port tiles are used- Five “2:1” Port for each of the 5 Resources, plus Four “? 3:1” Port. Use the standard Port Placement locations from the regular game, with the following exceptions: if a port cannot be used because a water tile is there, then move the port to another tile with water frontage following these rules:&#xA;•   Isolated single hexes are given ports first&#xA;•   Ports are placed on the “Flat” of a hex pointing to water&#xA;•   Ports must be a minimum of 2 flats away from each other&#xA;•   No individual hex can have more than 1 port&#xA;•   No “Cove” Ports (have a U shape with 3 hexes and the port at the bottom of the u)&#xA;•   New Port locations are placed one at a time by alternate players&#xA;•   No port can be placed on a single landlocked water hex&#xA;•   Ports may be placed in an inland lake of 2 hexes or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule Modifications  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   New Set Up: Game Board is set up differently (see “Game Set-Up” section)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Bridge Building: Bridges can be built to connect land over water.  Ore and Wood make a Bridge. Bridges can be up to two spans in length, maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Robin Hood Rule: When a 7 is rolled, then the player with the fewest victory points controls the robber (Robin Hood). When players have the same number of victory points, the player who rolled the dice controls the robber. Do NOT count Victory points hidden in Development Cards.  Giving control of the robber to the trailing player helps prevent the other player from running away with the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   No Robber in play until each player has 3 Victory Points (not counting Victory Points hidden in Development Cards): If a 7 is rolled during this phase, re-roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   No Player Trades: Players may only trade with the bank (4:1 turn-ins) or at a sea port.  No trades between players, since with only 2 players against each other it is rare to agree on trades. Since there are less resource tiles, port ratio increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•   Cards in Hand: The limit for the number of cards a player can hold when the robber is activated is increased from 7 to 9.  In the four player game there is ample opportunity to trade with other players between turns.  In this variant, players tend to accumulate more cards between turns, so the limit was increased accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope you like it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2879" LastActivityDate="2012-05-23T23:32:37.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2012-05-24T05:31:01.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;However, if you started a list and enumerated the initial conditions -- I feel like I've seen this on a linux version of Solitare: the numbering of deck order, that is -- and you definitively decide a certain one is un-winnable, you then could compare notes across nodes (share with friends) and VOILA: a list of un-winnable starting deck stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been starting to think the Windows 7 version has the un-winnable decks removed, ... I don't know, it's a little heavy-handed and smug about the statistics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2882" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T05:31:01.183" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2012-05-24T06:07:50.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ericsink.com/bos/Micro_ISV.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eric Sink&lt;/a&gt; decided that he would start a micro-ISV to create a version of solitaire that is always winnable. This was mostly just an experiment to see what it would be like running a software company with one person, but he eventually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.winnablesolitaire.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sold the product&lt;/a&gt; which is still available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been some estimates about the number of Klondike Solitaire games that are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.techuser.net/klondikeprob.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unplayable&lt;/a&gt; (no moves possible, about 1 in 400), and several guesses about how many games are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somethinkodd.com/oddthinking/2005/06/25/the-finer-points-of-klondike/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unwinnable&lt;/a&gt;, although this percentage varies wildly from 30%-10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty of this problem stems from the sheer number of initial deals 54! that would need to be evaluated to determine which were winnable and which were not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T06:07:50.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7443" CreationDate="2012-05-24T15:35:54.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Eternities is not an official format, it is very likely that either you'll have to ban Phenomena from being played altogether, or you will have to make some sort of house rules regarding their use in the format, at which point how Phenomenon cards are handled is up to you and the people you play with. Since this format was created by the mothership, I wouldn't be surprised if there was an article about this very subject in the near future; and Mark Rosewater regularly answers questions from fans, so that might be one avenue you could take in order figure out the proper way to address this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-05-24T16:48:24.983" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T16:48:24.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6768" CreationDate="2012-05-24T17:52:43.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A&amp;amp;A Pacific takes significantly less time to play than standard.  While I havent played Europe, BGG says that estimated time is 210 minutes as opposed to 120 for Pacific, so pacific should be shorter. Its about 2-3 hours, depends how willing to concede defeat the players are and. Additionally, it works excellently with 2 players. I would give that a try.. Have fun&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2886" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T17:52:43.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2012-05-24T17:59:56.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick rundown what I think would be some good options from a modelling perspective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhammer Fantasy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skaven Battalion - Something like 70 models in the box.  Fur and &quot;raggedy cloth&quot; are pretty easy to learn to paint to a nice standard, good for starting out on.  Plus you get two Rat Ogres which are nice big mean-ugly models that are a lot of fun to model/paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dwarves Battalion - Not a great &quot;models/value&quot; proposition, but I mention them because everything is covered in metal armor.  Learning to paint metal &quot;well&quot; is one of the first and easiest things you should learn.  Learning to paint metal &quot;expert&quot; is one of the most challenging things to learn, so there's actually a lot of ground to cover and experience to gain as a painter in working on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daemons of Chaos Battalion - lots of variety, decent count of cool models.  Flesh is a pain to do really well.  Learning first on non-human colored flesh is easier since you can get the techniques down without worrying if the tones &quot;look right.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warriors of Chaos Battalion - also lots of variety.  Armored Dudes, nekkid dudes, cavalry, beasts.  Weapon and Armor customization bits.  Many different painting techniques and types of models for a 50 model box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhammer 40K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyranid Battleforce - same idea as skaven above, lots of little guys to learn on, and a couple of big nasties for fun.  &quot;chitinous armor&quot; is also in there with fur as something that's easy to learn to paint well when you're starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eldar Battleforce - Both a hover tank and a walker!  Loads of fun to paint, low model count though, and you don't get any of the more fun aspect warrior models in the boxed set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T17:59:56.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2012-05-24T22:52:48.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways to keep it interesting is to have the players competing against the system (eg as a team of firefighters trying to put out a fire) and award points for, e.g. each civilian saved; the player with most points wins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The old Avalon Hill game 'Republic of Rome' took this to a new level; the players are factions within the Senate, and you want to divert as much tax money as you can to yourself; but if there isn't enough left in the budget the country collapses, and everybody loses.  You have to choose generals to fight foreign wars, and obviously the more competent the better (if there is a string of defeats the barbarians win and everybody loses); but popular generals have a habit of seizing power, and the more victories the more popular.  The players have to genuinely co-operate in many ways while trying to improve their own position; the system wins about half the time, and more if the players work for themselves too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-05-24T22:52:48.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6768" CreationDate="2012-05-25T03:37:29.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &quot;normal&quot; game the 1st edition is a little bit shorter than the 2nd and the anniversary edition because the rules are easier and you do not need to read/learn/memorize it. But in general the normal game will be long too. Never played a game under 4-5 hours and even then one side &quot;just&quot; gave up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2062" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T03:37:29.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7457" CreationDate="2012-05-25T11:00:28.650" Score="2" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a clunky &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15230&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gamekeeper&lt;/a&gt; build of mine against a Legacy Reanimator deck when the following situation occurred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt; in play (don't know if it's relevant). I had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15230&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gamekeeper&lt;/a&gt; in my own graveyard which my opponent reanimated with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=265167&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt;. I destroyed the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15230&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gamekeeper&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slaughter Pact&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who gets to use Gamekeeper's ability?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T21:31:21.860" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:31:21.860" Title="Who gets to use a reanimated Gamekeeper's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7456" CreationDate="2012-05-25T12:04:44.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt; has no bearing in this situation, because the Gatekeeper is going to your (its owner's graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.3. If an object would go to any library, graveyard, or hand other than its owner’s, it goes to its owner’s corresponding zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an object refers to &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt;, it means its controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card Text: When Gamekeeper dies, &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; may exile it. If you do, reveal cards from the top of your library until you reveal a creature card. Put that card onto the battlefield and put all other cards revealed this way into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.5. The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. &lt;strong&gt;For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered&lt;/strong&gt;, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-25T12:13:03.943" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T12:13:03.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2012-05-25T22:15:48.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we play games, we strive to come up with optimal strategies. Optimal means that the strategy can be adjusted to suit changing circumstances, whether the circumstances are created by opponents' strategy, or by the game itself. If a game is poorly designed, then such an optimal strategy will be too easy to find, and too simple and easy to carry out, even with changing circumstances. In this case, the game will be boring. On the other hand, if the game is well-designed, the optimal strategy will be difficult to find, and complex and difficult to carry out, especially given changing circumstances. The joy of the game then comes from attempting to discover and play by this strategy, along with whatever other components of the game we enjoy. &lt;strong&gt;All of this is true in both cooperative and competitive games.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your question is mostly a reaction to the fact that it's difficult to create a well-designed cooperative game for players like you and me. It's substantially easier to rely on humans to create the complexity than to create a game which does it all on its own. But it's still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Note: I think Alex's answer is great, but I thought I'd take a shot at a concise answer.)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-05-25T22:15:48.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-27T03:05:48.377" Score="8" ViewCount="1852" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background (feel free to skip)&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mom and I often play RFTG together (I am a very fortunate child to have a game-playing parent :), and we've noticed that there usually isn't as much luck in the game as we initially thought; there are few situations where you cannot find some favorable way to play out your cards and tableau. While the luck factor is definite present, as it will be in any game that involves powerful combinations of randomly drawn cards, but smart play can mitigate the effect. In fact, one of my favorite situations in the game is when I have a bunch of cards with no obvious strong combos and have to work with what I have to find some sort of strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've noticed that there is substantially more luck in the early parts of the game. If you get an initial draw that contains mostly high-drop cards, cards that aren't good in the early game, or no good combinations (tons of goods, but no way to actually do anything with them except trade ONE of them for 2-4 cards). Some luck later on can easily fix this if you get a nice card, but sometimes I feel like the game is decided after turn 4 when one of us has a killer initial combo and the other has had a bad start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the luck factor is relatively small and will be minimal in a series of 5 or more games, but I would still like to reduce it since we purely play for fun and rarely get to play 2 games in a row. I don't consider myself anywhere near an expert player, and I'm sure we're not always playing our cards optimally. However, I am sure that there are some opening hands that are sufficiently worse than others to drastically effect the outcome of the game, and I'd like to adjust this in our friendly games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some ways I've thought to prevent players from getting screwed over by bad initial draws in RFTG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start with 7 or 8 cards instead of 6. Still discard down to 4.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Implement a mulligan system for initial hands. You can discard your 6 initial cards, reshuffle the deck, and draw 5 (still discard down to 4). I suppose this could probably be extended to allow players to discard those 5 to draw 4 and keep all of them, even though I don't think many people would go for the second mulligan. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would these methods potentially be effective in reducing some of the initial luck in the game? How might I improve them? What other methods might be effective towards reaching this goal of a &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; more 'skill-based' RFTG by mitigating the effect of terrible initial draws?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:54:27.277" Title="How to mitigate the intial luck factor in Race For The Galaxy?" Tags="|house-rules|race-for-the-galaxy|luck|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7460" CreationDate="2012-05-27T04:05:54.797" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the most effective way to reduce luck at the beginning is to &lt;strong&gt;give players a choice of two start worlds&lt;/strong&gt;. A world you know will be on the table the whole game is a much bigger deal than four cards, of which you'll likely only play one or two, and sometimes none. The implementation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://keldon.net/rftg/&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy at keldon.net&lt;/a&gt; does this. (Side note: some of my friends think Rebel Freedom Fighters is overpowered. You can always just disallow a start world if you're in that camp.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This said, I think you might be overstating the importance of the starting hand. It's not meaningless, but I can't reliably predict how well my game will go based on it. I've had scores over 100 when I started out with no clear path based on my start world and hand. You have to &lt;strong&gt;be willing to explore (+5) on the first turn&lt;/strong&gt; sometimes. It really doesn't put you that far behind - at most one turn, and there's a good chance you'll get to piggy-back on someone else's develop/settle anyway. (Half the time you don't, it's because they explored too.) However it happens, each time you draw cards, it may completely change your game. &lt;strong&gt;Luck isn't just on the first turn&lt;/strong&gt;, and I think that with a choice of two start worlds, the luck in the rest of the game will be more significant than the initial luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you're not &lt;strong&gt;playing with the third expansion&lt;/strong&gt;, maybe you should be. It adds the ability to do a one-time search for a chosen category of card; you can choose to search for a 1- or 2-cost windfall world (or 1- or 2-defense if you're going military). If you're really desperate to get going, it is more reliable than the +5 card explore on the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Of your suggestions, I think mulligans are better - larger initial draws can improve average and good hands too. I think you'll probably be pretty satisfied with two start worlds, but if you do still want to allow mulligans, you might want to restrict it to &quot;bad&quot; hands by some definition, to keep from focusing too much on the mulligan decision, and possibly improving some okay hands.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-05-28T17:35:51.853" LastActivityDate="2012-05-28T17:35:51.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7460" CreationDate="2012-05-27T04:09:00.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, both suggestions would lessen the amount of luck in an initial hand. +2 cards reduces initial bad hands by an additional 33%-100%, depending upon whether you are counting total draws or total discards. Your second suggestion makes players make an interesting decisions, but might lean too heavily on trying to find the perfect draw (I would need to do some math to figure that out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either suggestion will still be subject to some unluckly starting hands, but both will lessen the degree to which those hands will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T04:09:00.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7464" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:13:59.697" Score="1" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a card is suppose to be upgraded do you remove the card being upgraded from your deck?  Then the card gained from the upgrade, are you allowed to play that card?  If you upgraded a card already on the bridge, can you play the gained card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:18:50.180" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:18:50.180" Title="Star Trek: Deck Building - Upgrade Rules" Tags="|star-trek-deck-building-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7463" CreationDate="2012-05-27T20:47:21.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you remove an upgraded card from your deck. &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you are not allowed to play a card immediately when you gain it. Normally, when gain a card it goes to your discard unless the card specifically tells you otherwise. &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, if you upgrade a card from your bridge, the gained cards normally go to your discard area, unless the card says specifically otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bandai.com/startrek/Rulebook2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rulebook2.0 on Bandai&lt;/a&gt;'s website, (page 24-25 Glossary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gain&lt;/strong&gt; - Move a card from Starbase to your discard area (Some effects may move it to another area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade&lt;/strong&gt; - This is short for “Trash the designated card and gain a card from Starbase costing up to the designated amount more than the trashed card”. So you can trash a card of cost X and gain a card with a cost less then X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trash&lt;/strong&gt; - Move a card to one of the following areas depending on where the card originated from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is a starter card, remove it from the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is a Basic Character card, move it to its pile on Starbase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is a card that started in the Starbase Deck, move it to the Starbase Discard Area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is a Borg Card, move it to the Borg Card Pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T22:43:49.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7466" CreationDate="2012-05-27T22:41:43.350" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an Exploration card requires experience to defeat does that mean that experience cannot be used for buying cards from the Starbase?  Since you can perform multiple buys I was treating the experience as a pool, played characters add to the pool, purchases remove from the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about 2 missions which say 'requires Attack +4', Can I complete them both with a total attack of 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:18:43.157" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:18:43.157" Title="Star Trek: Deck Building - Experience and Stats Pool" Tags="|star-trek-deck-building-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7465" CreationDate="2012-05-27T23:32:50.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you only need to meet the goals on an exploration card to acquire the card and move it to your Points Area. The rules clearly indicate that you don't have to spend experience to complete missions. You should treat experience as a pool though. When you spend experience to gain cards from the Starbase or to repair damage, that experience isn't available for purchasing any other cards or repairing other damage. The glossary doesn't define what it means by spend, but this is clearly the intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bandai.com/startrek/Rulebook2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q.The Mission I want to complete, has a goal of 6+ XP, do I have to spend 6 XP to &#xA;  complete it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. No, you just need to have cards in your Bridge that combine to 6 or more XP. That XP &#xA;  can be spend for other things as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you only need 4+ Attack to complete the goals of those missions. Normally, you only get one &lt;strong&gt;Explore&lt;/strong&gt; per turn though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;GOAL - This is the criteria that must be met to acquire this card and move it to your Points Area&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perform 1 Explore&lt;/strong&gt; - The Space Deck contains several different cards that you must &#xA;  obtain to gain Mission Points and win the game. To explore, you flip over the top card of the Space Deck and proceed based on the type of card flipped (See page 15 for Exploring the Space &#xA;     Deck). This can be performed multiple times if you get&#xA;  additional  explores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-05-27T23:46:06.233" LastActivityDate="2012-05-27T23:46:06.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4538" CreationDate="2012-05-28T21:36:49.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only experienced one game scenario that worked for dwarves. I was first player and stout dwarves was the first option. I picked the dwarves and immediately went for the closest mines to the edge of the board. I only conquered three territories with 2 mines. I threw them into decline right away. It allowed me to watch what the other players did and I switched my strategy according to them next turn. It gave me an in decline race and another power race (commando orcs) right off. Still lost to a newbie with late game merchant ogres. We dismissed her too readily, three way fight on one side of the board, and she ran rampant for three turns (18-20-20) until we could to respond to her growth. She had already launched so far ahead in gold we lost. I ended up not far behind in gold though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a long ramble short, dwarves are of very limited value. This was the only instance where they helped a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2895" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2022-02-05T19:41:57.757" LastActivityDate="2022-02-05T19:41:57.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7470" CreationDate="2012-05-30T01:50:10.190" Score="24" ViewCount="3704" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Dominion on isotropic, and I saw the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1594/boardgaming-online&quot;&gt;existing question about online versions of board games&lt;/a&gt;, but not all of the games listed there appear to be official.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ for isotropic&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;I don't have permission to use RGG's art.&quot; To me this implies two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The art for Dominion is legally protected (since he says so directly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game mechanics are not (since the site continues to exist)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this typical?  Or is Rio Grande Games just choosing to look the other way?  Do publishers or creators have more control is such matters?  What component of games (art, mechanics, terminology, other) are protected legally?  If programmers want to make free versions of games, should they be concerned about infringing on any trademarks, copyrights, or other legal protections?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this is actually several questions, but they're all so tightly knit that I didn't feel that they'd benefit from being separated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2898" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T15:01:30.237" Title="What's the legal stance for online versions of games?" Tags="|online|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7469" CreationDate="2012-05-30T04:23:15.037" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;IANAL (I am not a lawyer): this does not constitute legal advice. (Side note: Is it even necessary, i.e. do lawyers actually say this on the internet? Doesn't everyone assume that any advice you receive over the internet is suspect, and you should consult a professional?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paul Edward Nowak has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/493249/mythbusting-game-design-and-copyright-trademarks-a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great thread on the geek&lt;/a&gt; related to many of the common misconceptions regarding Intellectual Property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, art and the specific expression of the rules in rule book are protected by copyright, which protect an original artistic or literary work. If you reword the rules and use your own artwork, you can most likely recreate any game that you like with no legal repercussions from copyright. There are other concerns though, like trademark infringement. Trademarks are there to protect the public from being unable to distinguish one maker/source of a product from another. Trademarks may include fictional names of people or places (Catan, Darth Vader), product (Blokus, Monopoly, Magic: the Gathering) or company names (Apple Inc.). You should avoid copying aspects of a game that might confuse your version of a board game with that of the originator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this typical? That is difficult determine. There have been lawsuits in the past. &lt;a href=&quot;http://inventors.about.com/library/weekly/aa123097.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Anti-Monopoly creator was sued&lt;/a&gt;, but eventually Parker Brothers settled out of court, and granted the creator of the game a license to distribute the game. &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20080801060736/http://www.chicagotribune.com/business/technology/chi-fri-hasbro-scrabulousjul25,0,7068069.story&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Facebook's Scrabble-like board game creators were sued&lt;/a&gt;, but they modified the game enough that the lawsuit was withdrawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rio Grande might be looking the other way because it doesn't see a good positive cost/benefit analysis. In general, developers and publishers would probably send a &lt;strong&gt;Cease and Desist&lt;/strong&gt; letter to the website hosting the alleged infringing content. The website will probably remove the offending content if they are a third party, but afterwards the creator of the infringing content can &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.patent-trademark-law.com/trademarks/trademark-infringement-dilution/example-response-to-cease-desist-letter-allege-trademark-infringement/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;deny any infringement&lt;/a&gt;. Court is costly, and it is difficult to determine on which side the court will settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The components of board games that are protected are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Art: Is protected by copyright.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules: As written. You cannot copy verbatim any rule book.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Name (maybe): The name of the game might be a trademark, or a registered trademark. Trademarks are location/industry specific. This is why Apple Inc. (iPad creators) and Apple Records can both have very similar trademark names and icons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminology (maybe): You probably cannot directly copy fake technical terminology. You definitely cannot have &lt;strong&gt;Romulan Disruptors&lt;/strong&gt; in your spaceship battle game. You probably could have lasers, or photo torpedoes, or other real technology.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanics (probably not): You cannot patent a game mechanic. Everyone is free to create &lt;strong&gt;Roll and Move&lt;/strong&gt; games (Monopoly, et.al.), or &lt;strong&gt;Deck Building&lt;/strong&gt; games (Dominion clones), &lt;strong&gt;Tactical Wargames&lt;/strong&gt; (Warhammer 40k), etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanical Inventions (maybe, but it is harder than you think): Mechanical inventions in games that are novel and not obvious are able to be patented. They have to be new though. You cannot patent &amp;quot;inventions&amp;quot; that existed before your patent in the public, or that are obvious extensions of &lt;strong&gt;prior art&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;Quarriors!&lt;/strong&gt; creators could not patent custom die faces on six sided dice, because this invention existed previously and is obvious). &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.icv2.com/articles/news/10681.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WizKids sued Wizards&lt;/a&gt; in an attempt to declare Wizards &lt;strong&gt;constructible game&lt;/strong&gt; patent invalid. On this same page you can see other cases where Wizards sues Nintendo (settles).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A software developer should be worried about all these types of infringement. The worst that is likely to happen to you if you are creating a freeware online implementation though is that you will probably be sent a cease and desist letter. If you choose not to fight and remove the infringing work at that point, little if anything will happen to you. If you are charging money, and are earning a profit, then (if the amount of money you have made is considerable) you might be headed to court. While it is possible that you might be liable for up to $150,000, they would have to prove that your reproduction wasn't Fair Use &lt;a href=&quot;http://fightpiracy.org/faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DMCA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a civil suit, an infringer may be liable for a copyright owner's actual damages plus any profits made from the infringement. Alternatively, the copyright owner may avoid proving actual damage by electing a statutory damage recovery of up to $30,000 or, where the court determines that the infringement occurred willfully, up to $150,000. The actual amount will be based upon what the court in its discretion considers just. (17 U.S.C. 504)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Violation of copyright law is also considered a federal crime when done willfully with an intent to profit. Criminal penalties include up to ten years imprisonment depending on the nature of the violation. (No Electronic Theft Act, 18 U.S.C. 2319)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T03:36:04.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T13:29:11.547" Score="6" ViewCount="1323" Body="&lt;p&gt;If copyright on a board game map exists, how long will it last? When does the map become public domain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, there are plenty of Sokoban maps on-line.&#xA;Some of them were created by Thinking Rabbit, some by Yoshio Murase.&#xA;When will their copyright expire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2902" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T15:22:42.213" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T19:46:48.177" Title="What is the duration of copyright on a board game map?" Tags="|game-development|copyright|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-18T02:16:39.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7471" CreationDate="2012-05-30T14:33:44.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Us_copyright_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US&lt;/a&gt; its 90 to 120 years or life of the author plus 70.  US lawmakers keep extending the copyright so that Mickey Mouse doesn't go into the public domain.  So anything printed in your life time won't be available in the public domain for a long time if you live in the US.  The copyright owners can release it earlier, but you'd have to contact the owner to find out if that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IANAL(I am not a lawyer, this is a layman's understanding of the law) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone else will have to elaborate on copyright laws in other countries.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T14:33:44.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7471" CreationDate="2012-05-30T14:46:12.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In France, something drawn usually falls under the `droits d'auteur' (author rights) laws which protect one's creation 70 years after his death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2676" LastEditorUserId="2676" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T19:46:48.177" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T19:46:48.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7471" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:43:19.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the &amp;quot;board game map&amp;quot; is subject to copyright restrictions, then it is protected for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copyright.gov/help/faq/faq-duration.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;70 years in the USA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, for works created after January 1, 1978, copyright protection lasts for the life of the author plus an additional 70 years. For an anonymous work, a pseudonymous work, or a work made for hire, the copyright endures for a term of 95 years from the year of its first publication or a term of 120 years from the year of its creation, whichever expires first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IANAL, this does not constitute legal advice. &lt;strong&gt;Puzzles&lt;/strong&gt; cannot be protected by copyright, and neither can map layouts. A computer could probably create trillions of puzzles, many of them might be duplicates of those created by others. These puzzles follow algorithms for legal box pushing rules, so it is quite possible that these puzzles fall under mathematics which isn't subject to copyright protection. If you copy a complete collection of puzzles though, you might be in trouble. Copying individual puzzles from many different sources might constitute research. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.triviahalloffame.com/columbo.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trivial Pursuit&lt;/a&gt; lawsuit might be of interest to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you copy from one source, it’s called plagiarism; when you copy from many sources, it’s called research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worth's case was thrown out of court by Judge Wm Matthew Byrne, Jr. It never even came to trial. In 1987, the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals upheld the dismissal, declaring that Trivial Pursuit was “substantially different” from “Super Trivia”. The courts decided that the presentation of facts in an encyclopedia, where entries are listed alphabetically, was very different from the rewriting of those same facts as questions, and their division into categories randomly picked on a Trivial Pursuit card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T15:43:19.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7479" CreationDate="2012-05-30T15:52:51.933" Score="7" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;This lovely lady is Felrey, a mercenary from the new expansion for Twilight Imperium 3rd edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CR5mF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Felrey&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She's rather fast, but has limited evasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question surrounds her special ability. Some of the mercs have global abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The cost of technologic advancements is reduced by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and others have local abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When participating in a combat, assign one hit to an enemy fighter or&#xA;  ground force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this one clearly says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of a battle, draw 1 Action Card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that &lt;strong&gt;Felrey does not need to be a participant in that battle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mercs are very neat, and battle does not come cheap in any case. I haven't seen any errata or FAQ covering this, and if one goes with &quot;rules as written&quot;, it seems to get an action card at the beginning of every battle, making this lady an interesting leech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, some players argue it as an &quot;obvious thing&quot; that she has to participate herself. Who is right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:15:34.643" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:15:34.643" Title="Is Felray's ability global or local?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7478" CreationDate="2012-05-30T16:25:58.360" Score="4" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the exception of basic lands, are all Alpha, Beta, and Arabian Nights cards banned in sanctioned tournaments? Does that also include Deserts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T21:30:05.460" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T12:36:12.470" Title="Alpha, Beta, and Arabian Nights in Tournaments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2012-05-30T16:37:37.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, sanctioned tournaments have different formats, which allow for different cards. You can read more about all sanctioned formats &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/resources/formats-sanctioned&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, if you want to play older cards you should get into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrlegacy&quot;&gt;Legacy&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrvintage&quot;&gt;Vintage&lt;/a&gt;. You can play cards of any white or black bordered set except for cards that are banned in each respective format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most cards from those expansions (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Printings.aspx?multiverseid=986&quot;&gt;Desert&lt;/a&gt;) aren't banned so you can play with them in Legacy or Vintage!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="1262" LastEditDate="2012-05-30T16:42:54.090" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T16:42:54.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2012-05-30T16:48:51.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a special limitation on Alpha cards to account for their differently-cut edges. From the official Magic The Gathering Floor Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;102. Authorized Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha cards (cards from the first print run of the basic set) may be used in decks  containing non-Alpha cards only&#xA;if all cards are placed in completely opaque sleeves  and only if the&#xA;sleeves could not be considered marked. If sleeves are not used, Alpha&#xA;cards may be used only in decks that consist exclusively of Alpha&#xA;cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no such restrictions on Beta or Arabian Nights cards however, which are (hopefully) less easily distinguishable by their shape from modern cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As rahzark's answer rightly suggests, &lt;em&gt;individual cards&lt;/em&gt; may be restricted or banned in different tournament formats, but there's no prohibition against cards from &lt;em&gt;older sets as a whole&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T17:02:47.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7475" CreationDate="2012-05-30T16:59:39.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Felrey's ability will only trigger when she is present in the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the section on P12 of the Shards of the Throne expansion rulebook &quot;Using Mercenaries In Battle&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any Mercenary abilities that work during battle may only be used if&#xA;  the Mercenary is participating in the Space Battle or  Invasion&#xA;  Combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could argue that &quot;at the start of a battle&quot; should not technically count as &quot;during a battle&quot; I suppose, but that sounds like excessive rules-lawyering to me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-30T16:59:39.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-30T20:54:55.817" Score="7" ViewCount="2059" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once 'my friends' played cards with me using playing cards that had CBR as the JQK..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wanted to know why and where the cards originate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2906" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T04:57:03.200" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T04:57:03.200" Title="Which country's playing cards have CBR as the JQK?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2012-05-30T22:33:03.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out magic-league.com.  They have a community of gamers who use the above-mentioned tools (MWS &amp;amp; NetDraft) to  do free drafts and sealed deck games.  Its a good way to connect with outher ppl looking to draft and play.  They use IRC channels to organize the drafts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic-league.com/play/chatroom.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magic-league.com/play/chatroom.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2907" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T19:37:53.513" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T19:37:53.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-05-31T01:00:44.217" Score="3" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard a lot of good things about &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19857/glory-to-rome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Glory to Rome&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, but I've heard many people classify it as extremely complex. I asked around at my FLGS and they said it was more complex than Race For The Galaxy and Puerto Rico, both of which my family and I have enjoyed. How bad is it really? I don't mind reading and explaining a 20 page rulebook as long as its well written, and its also fine if we don't really grasp some of the strategy until 7 or 8 plays. However, if it truly is much worse than that, I should probably think twice before buying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How prohibitive is Glory to Rome's complexity to new players? Approximately how long will it take to learn the rules and have a general conception of the strategy? As an aside, how well does it play well with 2 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-12T18:17:58.057" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T22:23:25.607" Title="How prohibitive is Glory to Rome's complexity to new players?" Tags="|glory-to-rome|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7481" CreationDate="2012-05-31T03:18:36.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly I'm just guessing here, but could they be Irish?  Roughly an hour of Googling eventually brought me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.math.bas.bg/~iad/tyalie/damapik.html&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.irishpage.com/themes/cardgame.htm&quot;&gt;pages&lt;/a&gt;, which lists the names of the face cards in Irish Gaelic as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King: [&lt;strong&gt;R&lt;/strong&gt;]í&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Queen: [&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;]hanríon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack: Laoch (also [&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;]uireata)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-05-31T03:57:02.857" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T03:57:02.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1026" CreationDate="2012-05-31T03:52:28.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can follow with an actual &lt;strong&gt;Architect&lt;/strong&gt; card, or choose to &lt;strong&gt;Think&lt;/strong&gt; regardless of whether you have a legal action to play. I think I am understanding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cambridgegames.com/documents/GTR_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; correctly. Your opponent can lead with a Jack, because a Jack can be used to lead or follow any role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jack&lt;/strong&gt; Fictional Roman citizens of all trades.  Jacks may be used to lead as or follow any role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Leader selects a role, and then each other player gets the option of Following, or Thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On each turn the player with the Leader Card (The Leader) decides what  type of turn (Role) it is going to be, and then each other player decides whether to participate (Follow) or draw cards (Think) Here’s how to play each turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the Leader “leads” then in clockwise order around the table each other player may either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;“think” and draw more cards (see below)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;“follow” by playing an Order card of the same role as the Leader &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In clockwise order, each other player now gets to perform one action if they chose to follow, plus an additional action for each client he has of the chosen role.  Players who thought instead of following do still get to take actions for their clients!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decision to &quot;follow&quot; is made by playing the Order card, and doesn't require a mandatory use of the action. This is supported in the rules by the Stairway Card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stairway&lt;/strong&gt; - Each time you execute an Architect action you may also chose to move an appropriate material into any opponent’s completed structure in order to immediately grant that structure’s function to all players ... You may perform the additional action &lt;strong&gt;even if you choose not to use your Architect action&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T03:52:28.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7489" CreationDate="2012-05-31T12:07:44.400" Score="8" ViewCount="3076" Body="&lt;p&gt;What good archetypes have you found in triple Avacyn Restored draft? I'm looking for strategies, color combinations and core cards for each deck type. &#xA;Maybe you found something that was surprisingly good or bad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-02T18:01:51.243" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T18:01:51.243" Title="Archetypes in triple Avacyn Restored draft" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7495" CreationDate="2012-05-31T14:09:50.437" Score="69" ViewCount="10392" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Kingmaker was &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Neville,_16th_Earl_of_Warwick&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Richard Neville, 16th Earl of Warwick&lt;/a&gt;. He was instrumental during the Wars of the Roses in the deposition of two kings. The term kingmaker has come to mean, &quot;a person or group that has great influence in a royal or political succession, without being a viable candidate.&quot; The term in game theory has come to mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kingmaker_scenario&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kingmaking&lt;/a&gt;: in a game of three or more players (on three or more opposing sides), during and endgame situation when a player who is unable to win is able to determine which player among others is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kingmaking to me basically comes down to purposefully taking actions in a game so that someone other than yourself wins. It is slightly unusual that only the actions of the last player are considered kingmaking, when it is the total contribution of all players over the entire course of the game that determines a winner (i.e. If some else prevent you from getting 4 VP from shipping on boats in Puerto Rico on turn 5, but I prevent you from getting 4 VP on turn 19 and you lose by four points...why am I the kingmaker?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any game with more than two opposing sides is susceptible to kingmaking. In the world of competitive gaming, kingmaking can even occur in games with only two sides (due to rankings of multiple players). In Sumo Wrestling, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Match-fixing_in_professional_sumo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;yaochō or &quot;match fixing&quot;&lt;/a&gt; is where one wrestler who has already achieved a high paying rank throws a match on purpose to allow the opposing wrestler to secure a higher paycheck. In Magic: the Gathering tournaments, where a player may have no chance of making the top 8, they might concede a match to help a friend have a better win-loss ratio, while trying their hardest against any other opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer MtG game, players may openly collude to help destroy the player with the best board position. In other groups, tabletalk and open collusion banned, but it is still expected that most players will gang up on the player with the best board position. The rules for MtG can also be exploited in multiplayer. A kingmaker player on the verge of elimination might cast an instant to hurt an unfavored player in hopes that they don't win or to make the game end earlier so they can play another game. A kingmaker might concede before damage is dealt so an unfavored player doesn't gain life from lifelinked creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other examples from games like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2130/how-unethical-is-a-purely-blocking-move-in-ticket-to-ride&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;purely blocking moves&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/577/is-pretending-to-want-to-trade-before-playing-a-monopoly-card-objectionable&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;monopoly card ethics&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6448/promised-future-trades-as-part-of-legal-trades-solution-described-alternative&quot;&gt;future trades&lt;/a&gt; (these aren't the exact links I was looking for. I thought that one of these talked about the ethics of performing multiple trades circumvent the &lt;strong&gt;no zero card trade&lt;/strong&gt; rule) , &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6472/in-monopoly-is-it-ok-for-a-third-party-to-make-a-trade-with-a-player-who-is-abo&quot;&gt;Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;trade before losing&lt;/strong&gt;. Looking over the highest scored answers, it appears that there is still some question about whether kingmaking is a problem or the normal part of any game. In Risk Legacy, the line is blurred even further since the game is played over multiple rounds. A player without the chance of winning might purposefully lose to a particular player to improve their odds in future games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is kingmaking a problem that needs to be fixed?&lt;/strong&gt; (Are only certain kinds of kingmaking an issue? Collusion, playing to lose/disrupt the game, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What steps/rules are helpful in mitigating kingmaking in games?&lt;/strong&gt; (general concepts, but real world examples preferred)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T18:38:38.793" Title="Is kingmaking in multiplayer games a problem that can be fixed?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7486" CreationDate="2012-05-31T14:52:29.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pro player Paulo Vitor Damo da Rosa recently wrote an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/pvs-playhouse-drafting-with-avacyn/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;interesting article&lt;/a&gt; on the subject where he states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are no archetypes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is kind of an exaggeration – obviously there are archetypes – but this is so different than previous draft formats that I think the exaggeration is warranted to get the point across. For most of the past decade, there were very specific archetypes and color combinations that you wanted or didn’t want to be in – in Innistrad, for example, you could be Spider Spawning, Burning Vengeance, GW aggro, BR aggro, but you did not want to be GW control, UB aggro or WR anything, because the cards just weren’t there. In Avacyn Restored, you can be almost any color combination, and you can be control or aggro in any of them. That’s very interesting, because previous picks don’t restrain you as much when it comes to choosing a second color or a strategy, as pretty much anything is fair game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we take Paulo's word on the subject, &lt;strong&gt;it all comes down to color combinations where pretty much any combination can work&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same article he also talks about each color's strengths and highlights the best cards for each color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T14:52:29.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7486" CreationDate="2012-05-31T15:22:24.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, Avacyn Restored Limited is less dependent on drafting clear archetypes than Innistrad. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;None of the colors have a super-strong identity associating them with one particular strategy&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, you could draft small aggressive white beaters, or you could draft &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seraph%20of%20Dawn&quot;&gt;Seraph of Dawn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angelic%20Wall&quot;&gt;Angelic Wall&lt;/a&gt; to try to win on board control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many of the colors are short on &amp;quot;playables&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some of the strongest synergies are in rather basic aggressive and midrange decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the &amp;quot;weird&amp;quot; cards turn out to be useless. Don't expect to be able to draft an awesome combo deck like Burning Vengeance or Spiders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest analogy, in my view, is core set draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if I had to pick archetypes, I think these would win on &lt;strong&gt;power and &lt;em&gt;consistent draftability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Think of them as a mental shorthand for &amp;quot;What's good in this set that I'm likely to actually see?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;White-based aggro (W/R)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the classic white weenie strategy, basically, with red as the strongest secondary color due to its own weenies like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Mauler&quot;&gt;Lightning Mauler&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kruin%20Striker&quot;&gt;Kruin Striker&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fervent%20Cathar&quot;&gt;Fervent Cathar&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Only some of the low-cost creatures in the set are actually good, though, while others are filler; one way this deck fails is if you draft too many do-nothing 1/2s.&lt;/strong&gt; Auras or Equipment can help keep them relevant in the game, but many of these are weak, too. In my experience, you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be outclassed by your opponent's creatures at some point, so it's important to have a way to push that final bit of damage through, whether that's direct damage, buff spells, or even &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heirs%20of%20Stromkirk&quot;&gt;Heirs of Stromkirk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think the format is just slow enough that you usually want to play a big finisher or two if you can manage to pick up a good one: that's right, shove &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entreat%20the%20Angels&quot;&gt;Entreat the Angels&lt;/a&gt; into a weenie deck! &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20War&quot;&gt;Herald of War&lt;/a&gt; is actually one of the better finishers because it comes down early and grows so quick. I'd be looking to pick up some of the more aggressive midrange Angels as well, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emancipation%20Angel&quot;&gt;Emancipation Angel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Restoration%20Angel&quot;&gt;Restoration Angel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Green-based midrange (G/R)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core concept of this deck is simple: most of the other decks you encounter can't beat curving out with a good two-drop into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trusted%20Forcemage&quot;&gt;Trusted Forcemage&lt;/a&gt; into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Druid%27s%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Druid&amp;#39;s Familiar&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Green has a lot of playable commons and uncommons and probably the highest concentration of really good ones as well (Druid's Familiar &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wolfir%20Avenger&quot;&gt;Wolfir Avenger&lt;/a&gt;, for instance!), &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; it easily supports splashing a third color without diluting your deck (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Borderland%20Ranger&quot;&gt;Borderland Ranger&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abundant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Abundant Growth&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/strong&gt;. I like red as the support color here, because it's good to have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thunderbolt&quot;&gt;Thunderbolt&lt;/a&gt;, and all the haste cards to mess with your opponent's defensive preparations. Blue is also promising for its soulbond creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tandem%20Lookouts&quot;&gt;Tandem Lookouts&lt;/a&gt; but seems to lead to grindier decks; generally, I think it's better to just take the blowout when you can get it, and cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Uncanny%20Speed&quot;&gt;Uncanny Speed&lt;/a&gt; go a long way towards getting blowouts &lt;em&gt;all the time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to soulbond, there's a &amp;quot;power matters&amp;quot; theme with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wandering%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Wandering Wolf&lt;/a&gt;; if you pick up multiples of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blessings%20of%20Nature&quot;&gt;Blessings of Nature&lt;/a&gt; (an uncommon), a bunch of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Champion%20of%20Lambholt&quot;&gt;Champion of Lambholt&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Falkenrath%20Exterminator&quot;&gt;Falkenrath Exterminator&lt;/a&gt; suddenly become game-ending combo cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Blue-based tempo control (U/?)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mist%20Raven&quot;&gt;Mist Raven&lt;/a&gt; is a good card. Playing it feels a lot like playing Snapcaster - Vapor Snag in Standard. Then you start using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghostly%20Flicker&quot;&gt;Ghostly Flicker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Smuggler&quot;&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/a&gt; and it's like a whole wave of Vapor Snags. There are no Delvers in this set, though, so you're in for a much grindier game, pecking away for 2 or 4 a turn in the air while you frustrate your opponent with blockers and bounce; a bit like CawBlade without any hands-down awesomely broken cards, really. This deck really benefits from some card draw to generate more lasting card advantage, like the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tandem%20Lookouts&quot;&gt;Tandem Lookouts&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windcrafter&quot;&gt;Windcrafter&lt;/a&gt; combo -- ideally using it to find your big finisher or some powerful removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pull a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadeye%20Navigator&quot;&gt;Deadeye Navigator&lt;/a&gt;, then you have a real control game in the form of a soft lock. Or, you know, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tamiyo&quot;&gt;Tamiyo&lt;/a&gt;, but I suspect you don't need to be told that planeswalkers can totally take over in Limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T15:22:24.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2012-05-31T15:53:01.433" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;To a certain extent, kingmaking is a desirable element in multiplayer games.  Suppose that another player has been making my life a misery throughout a game, to the extent that I fall so far behind that I no longer have a chance of winning.  Obviously it's not exactly &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt; for me to then have to spend the rest of the game taking my persecutor down with me, but it's probably more fun than me not being able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Politics can be an important and beneficial part of many multiplayer games.  Take Settlers of Catan.  I know some people just &lt;em&gt;hate&lt;/em&gt; having to victimise others with the robber (I believe their pain has been documented on this site!), but to me it's an important part of the game that stops everyone from just playing solitaire with occasional pauses to make fair trades for resources they need.  When the robber comes into play you're generally forced to pick sides, play politics, and put people's noses out of joint.  It keeps things interactive and adds competitive tension to a game that might, dare I say it, be a bit dull without such a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that the worst kingmaking problems solve themselves... over time.  Let's suppose you play with a group of roughly the same people every week.  If your &quot;friend&quot; Richard takes you down from behind in one game, you have every right to stab him in the back the next week.  Either a truce will be drawn up in due course, or before too long no one will want to play with either of you!  I used to have a delightfully political friend called Frances whose main tactic in Family Business was to advise everyone at the beginning of the game that &quot;if you go out of your way to attack me in this game, I swear I will try to destroy you in both this game and in the future&quot;.  A bit drastic perhaps, but it's well worth making it clear to people that if they behave like unsportsmanlike jerks in games that are after all's said and done meant to be fun for everyone involved, there will be consequences!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all politics though, and politics is hard.  If it's a one-off game with strangers, and someone destabilises the balance of power in a random and vindictive way... at least you don't have to play with that person ever again.   Actually this reminds me of a guy I sort of co-ran a boardgames group in Seattle with.  He was a pretty good tactical player, and as such quickly decided that I was his biggest competition in most games we played in together.  As such, he'd attack me right from the start of games we sat down to together.  The upshot of this was... that most of the time I'd come last, and he'd come second from last.  I'm not sure if that taught him a lesson, but I certainly made sure the lesson was available for him to learn from, if he cared to think closely on the matter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T15:53:01.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2012-05-31T15:59:53.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen this come up in games a lot.  For the most part I think it's something that has to be lived with, especially if the game you played doesn't have a mechanism to defend against it.  For the most part, it's punishment for eliminating a player's chances of winning, but still leaving them in a position to disrupt your end game.  Sometimes you can't get around that.  Most games aren't cut-throat enough to include mechanics to eliminate players before the game ends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only noticed players get into this behavior if they cannot win themselves.  So as a player, you can try to keep the game as close as possible until the end.  You can also play games that have a catch-up mechanic--sort of like running in Hearts or blind nils in Spades.  This way players always have the off chance of pulling off a win from behind.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a pure social engineering approach your gaming group can decide that it's unsportsmanlike behavior.  I don't quite like this approach myself.  I prefer to consider any valid action according to the rules to be acceptable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen one game that actually built king-making in as a mechanic. Solium Infernum(a very board game like PC game) includes a victory condition that is triggered if you chose the actual winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one last approach you may try: bribes.  Cookies, pizza, or beer for the appropriately aged gamer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T15:59:53.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7493" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:38:12.600" Score="19" ViewCount="1630" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that there are games where the units on the board are secret -- that the other player doesn't know where they are.  How does this actually work?  How can you have units on the board without the other players knowing their location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T15:34:20.653" LastActivityDate="2019-08-16T09:48:54.427" Title="How can you have units with secret locations on the board?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-05-31T16:56:29.457" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few popular ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a duplicate game board with a referee to validate things.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a map of the game board set aside with the secret locations marked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have numbered locations on the board where the hidden units can be and mark the number down secretly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use decoy markers.  Place several markers on the board and treat them like a real unit.  Only one of the decoy markers represents the actual unit.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T16:56:29.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-05-31T17:13:12.087" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Stratego, you don't know which units are which, but I am sure that isn't what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scotland Yard and Clue: The Great Museum Caper have a player record their moves secretly, and only reveal their location at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battleship does it with independent boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also institute a Fog of War by placing unit tiles facedown among blank tiles. Moving unit tiles on your turn (only you know the location of your units) when your opponent isn't in the room.  When you maneuver a unit adjacent to another you flip the tile and reveal an opponent’s unit or a blank. At the end of your turn, you replace the blanks and your opponent returns to the room and takes their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2012-06-09T20:14:44.260" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T20:14:44.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2012-05-31T17:20:03.423" Score="73" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Kingmaking can be a desired feature in its own right&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Particularly in games with a political or simulational bent, kingmaking can be a desired feature.  The kingmaker gets to feel like he accomplished something even if he didn't win, and the tension and turnabout can contribute to a more exciting play experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/7490/1910&quot;&gt;Thesunneversets' answer&lt;/a&gt; addresses this much better than I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Threats of kingmaking are a strategic tool&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If you take me out, I'm going to make it so that you can't win afterward.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most games, this isn't really a problem. It's just allowing players to use a &quot;rattlesnake&quot; defense when their more conventional defenses have faltered. &lt;strong&gt;Mutually assured destruction is basically a higher-stakes version of the normal tit-for-tat trading that goes on in strategy games.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When every game session turns into a complex web of MAD checks-and-balances leading to a spectacular flameout, though -- well, at that point you've gotta either call it a feature or redesign the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reduce rattlesnake behavior, &lt;strong&gt;players need a way to trump the rattlesnake's threat&lt;/strong&gt;, e.g. by more slowly setting up a victory that can't be disrupted. Is one player keeping the whole table at bay with an overgrown &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShrine%20of%20Burning%20Rage%5d&quot;&gt;Shrine of Burning Rage&lt;/a&gt;, for instance? It's important for the game to have cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKrosan%20Grip%5d&quot;&gt;Krosan Grip&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrickbind%5d&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShining%20Shoal%5d&quot;&gt;Shining Shoal&lt;/a&gt; to stop him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Undesirable kingmaking is a motivation issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the previous case, the kingmaker is still looking to win; he's just holding the threat of you losing over your head to keep you from taking an action against him. &lt;strong&gt;Full-on kingmaking behavior is a motivation problem, resulting from players abandoning the goal of actually winning the game.&lt;/strong&gt; Two possibilities exist here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winning is no longer a reasonable goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a game puts a player in a situation where she can no longer win, then that player is &lt;em&gt;functionally aimless&lt;/em&gt;. Such players may turn to kingmaking because it's the only way they can still interact with the main goal of the game, indirectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want some overly reductive advice, &lt;strong&gt;either eliminate losing players quickly or provide some &quot;come from behind&quot; / &quot;alternate victory&quot; mechanisms so they can still engage with the game's goals.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, a less winner-take-all model can keep players &quot;playing to win&quot; even when they're not in a position to actually seize first place. This is probably easiest in games with results that roll forward, such as tournaments where even finishing 3rd vs. 4th has an impact on overall scoring, or wargaming campaigns where the disposition of your surviving units has as much of an effect on future battles as the win/loss outcome of the skirmish itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Winning is a reasonable goal, but a player has decided to dismiss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is really a social issue. &lt;strong&gt;The player has broken with the goals of the game and created his own.&lt;/strong&gt; Part of good game design is avoiding this by keeping players engaged with what they're supposed to do, but as a layman I honestly can't speak to &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; good games do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing you can definitely do as a game designer is to clearly signpost your &quot;come from behind&quot; features so that players don't feel a game is hopeless when it's not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, though, the players themselves need to address disruptive kingmaking as a &lt;strong&gt;sportsmanship problem&lt;/strong&gt;: fundamentally what's happening is that a player is following the rules but not the spirit of the game. Sometimes it's because the kingmaker has lost interest, sometimes it's because social goals have trumped gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T17:48:28.497" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7497" CreationDate="2012-05-31T20:47:39.193" Score="16" ViewCount="22024" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lately while playing Catan I've been in situation of rolling a 7 and having a knight development card in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it legal for me to move the robber due to the 7 and then play a knight and move the robber again all in the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2909" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T00:32:08.753" Title="Roll a 7, move robber AND play knight and move the robber again in the same turn" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2012-05-31T20:54:33.327" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is legal. You may play the knight at any time during your turn, including before rolling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-05-31T20:54:33.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2012-05-31T23:21:34.757" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the answers so far say that king-making can be an acceptable feature of a game. However, there are certainly people who don't like it, whether they are the king-maker or not. As such, making a game that avoids king-maker situations is a good goal, not because it's bad, but because it's seen as bad by some (many?) people. King-making is especially annoying in more competitive games, or with competitive players. Such situations can't be solved outside of the game, with house rules on sportsmanship, bribes of pizza, or playing badly to give others a chance. There seem to be far more games that don't try to solve the issue, so making games that try to avoid it in mechanics may prove to be a defining feature of your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player &lt;em&gt;wants&lt;/em&gt; to not win and instead be a king-maker, there's not much you can do without making a low-interaction game, or making it so that players' actions have little meaning. So it's better to concentrate on avoiding accidental king-making, instead of deliberate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a difficult problem to solve. It comes down to the existence of &quot;lame-duck&quot; situations, where a player is unable to win, but is still playing. For example: when there aren't enough VP cards in the bank in Dominion to be able to come back, or if the other players have boxed you in in Settlers. This is not a terribly fun position to be in for some people, including me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way is to make players unaware as to who is further ahead, so that someone who is unable to win is unaware that they are. People can usually have a fair idea of what's going on, so this works better when there's lots of hidden information. This may be undesirable if you'd like to keep other kinds of player politics in your game, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is player-elimination. This is not great for casual games, because this makes players sit and do nothing, or go elsewhere and forget to care about the end of the game, which leaves a bad impression of a lack of closure to the game. And it is good to make a game cater to both hardcore-competitive and casual-fun players. You can't get the hardcore players without them playing casually, at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a system where even the player coming last can still win. You can make it so that, as long as the player coming last keeps making intelligent moves, then they can cross some kind of winning condition without the other players advancing much at all. This requires a game with a lot of interaction, so the losing player can obstruct all of the opponents while still advancing themselves. The danger is making it feel like the rest of the game didn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the players team up into two teams. Turn the 4-player problem into a fake 2-player solution. This is something your game would have to be thoroughly built around, and thus is not a solution that can be used in most games (unless you want to specialise and only make team games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rather like the method used in Puzzle Strike 3rd Edition. There's no win condition. Players just see who is in the best position when the end-game situation rolls around. The timing of the end-game situation is somewhat difficult to predict, but (at least in this case) can be influenced by players. &quot;Who's in the best position&quot; can't be so static as to feel like little can be done about it, but also can't be so dynamic as to feel random. (Edit: I had previously linked an article Sirlin wrote on the topic, but now his site and articles have been redone, and the link is no longer valid.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer your question, &quot;can it be fixed?&quot;: Maybe. It doesn't appear to have ever been totally solved, only reduced, and most solutions have some kind of drawback or can only be used for certain kinds of games. The solution you use for your game is likely to be dictated more by the game itself than by suggestions found on forums. Just keep testing with both casual and hardcore players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2911" LastEditorUserId="2911" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T22:25:54.367" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T22:25:54.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7501" CreationDate="2012-06-01T00:13:57.920" Score="2" ViewCount="1463" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature has an enchantment, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defang&quot;&gt;Defang&lt;/a&gt;, and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheltering%20Word&quot;&gt;Sheltering Word&lt;/a&gt; on that creature, would the other enchantment be removed? Or does it need to be cast in response to the enchantment being played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:19:41.433" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:19:41.433" Title="Does Sheltering Word remove an existing enchantment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7500" CreationDate="2012-06-01T00:32:22.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Auras do not target the creature they are attached to once they are in play.  Auras only target a creature while they are a spell on the stack. Yes casting &lt;strong&gt;Sheltering Word&lt;/strong&gt; in response to &lt;strong&gt;Defang&lt;/strong&gt; would make your creature untargetable, and therefore Defang would be countered on resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1b Aura spells are always targeted. These are the only permanent spells with targets. An Aura’s target is specified by its enchant keyword ability (see rule 702.5, “Enchant”). The target(s) are chosen as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. An Aura permanent doesn’t target anything; only the spell is targeted. (An activated or triggered ability of an Aura permanent can also be targeted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.11b “Hexproof” on a permanent means “This permanent can’t be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T01:17:54.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2012-06-01T01:28:23.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. There is no restriction on playing a Knight card if you have already moved the Robber via a roll of '7'. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Playing Development Cards - At any time during your turn, you play one Development Card (on the table). That card, however, may not be a card that you bought during the same turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knight (aka Soldier) Cards (red frame) - If you play a Knight Card, you must immediately move the robber. See &amp;quot;Rolling a '7' and Activating the Robber&amp;quot; above and follow steps 1 and 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T06:51:31.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7505" CreationDate="2012-06-01T16:05:30.367" Score="22" ViewCount="51249" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulvenwald%20Tracker&quot;&gt;Ulvenwald Tracker&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}{G}, {T} : Target creature you control fights another target creature. &lt;em&gt;(Each deals damage equal to its power to the other.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this have anything to do with combat? Or is it just direct damage between two creatures? For example, can one of the creatures have &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;defender&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;? Or what if one of them is &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tapped&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been assuming it is more like the damage dealt by a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prodigal%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Prodigal Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: are the two creatures then “tapped” until their next untap step? ie: could you use Ulenvald Tracker to make two creatures fight in your pre-combat step, then enter the combat phase with a creature who just “fought” untapped? Could you make two creatures fight who are both tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T07:51:04.163" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T07:51:04.163" Title="Does 'fight' involve combat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7504" CreationDate="2012-06-01T16:24:13.503" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;The entirety of the ability is summarized in the italicized text: each creature deals damage equal to its power to the other. &lt;strong&gt;There are no special restrictions on &amp;quot;fight&amp;quot; beyond the normal rules for targeting and abilities on the stack&lt;/strong&gt; (Ulvenwald Tracker can't make your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ravager%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Ravager of the Fells&lt;/a&gt; fight an opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geist%20of%20Saint%20Traft&quot;&gt;Geist of Saint Traft&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, because the Tracker can't target a hexproof creature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of those creatures isn't around when the ability resolves, no fighting will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the full comp rules for 'fight':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10. Fight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10a A spell or ability may instruct a creature to fight another creature or it may instruct two creatures to fight each other. Each of&#xA;those creatures deals damage equal to its power to the other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10b If a creature instructed to fight is no longer on the battlefield or is no longer a creature, no damage is dealt. If a&#xA;creature is an illegal target for a resolving spell or ability that&#xA;instructs it to fight, no damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10c If a creature fights itself, it deals damage equal to its power to itself twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10d The damage dealt when a creature fights isn't combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some minutiae about how this relates to other rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abilities that only affect the assignment of combat damage, like&#xA;first strike and trample, don't do anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lifelink, deathtouch, and infect/wither &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; still apply, since they modify all&#xA;damage that a permanent deals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage can still be prevented or&#xA;redirected normally, just like damage from a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the case of protection, a creature with protection from the source&#xA;setting up the fight can't be targeted by it; a creature with&#xA;protection from the other creature but not the fight effect (e.g. if&#xA;you use Ulvenwald Tracker to make a red creature fight a creature&#xA;with protection from red) can still be made to fight, but protection&#xA;will prevent the damage it receives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note how the rules I quoted don't say anything about tapped or untapped creatures. Tapped creatures can fight just fine. Fighting will not cause an untapped creature to become tapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T09:58:58.197" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T09:58:58.197" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7504" CreationDate="2012-06-01T16:35:30.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What &lt;strong&gt;Fight&lt;/strong&gt; does is described within the italicized reminder text. It has nothing to do with combat, defender doesn't matter because you are not declaring attackers, it doesn't care about those creatures tapped status.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-01T19:08:45.833" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T19:08:45.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7508" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:04:54.717" Score="15" ViewCount="11788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing MTG with some friends the other day, when a guy walks up and challenges me to a game. He insisted that he would not roll my spin-down die to determine who goes first. When I pointed out that it doesn't matter, because probabilistically, each side should have a 1/20 chance of showing regardless of the order of the sides, he assured me that there exists a &quot;technique&quot; by which someone could throw an ordered dice such that he has a higher chance to win a dice roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paranoia aside, does anyone know if such a technique exists? Is there any documentation on such a technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T15:29:59.337" Title="Does it really matter if dice are randomized?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|random|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:47:31.323" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I noted in a comment, there are techniques I've seen people use with spindown dice - most notably a sort of 'skitter along the table' throw where the die is primarily slid rather than tumbled - that can be used to great effect in rolling high numbers.  There's enough imprecision that shots can't really be called precisely, but for spindown dice where all of the faces around a high-numbered face are also high-numbered, they lead to significantly biased rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might ask why it matters, since both players are rolling the same die and both have access to the same technique - but the point is that there's an &lt;em&gt;ethical&lt;/em&gt; asymmetry; one player is (presumably) trying to roll the die in a 'fair' fashion with an unbiased roll, either out of a sense of internal fairness or because they have no reason to suspect the other player is cheating them.  Meanwhile the shark is (also presumably) well aware of the skew in the game and willing to use that skew to their advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I don't believe most people rolling spindown dice do it with any intention to cheat; the life counter is just what they have handy, and so it's a natural choice.  But there are people who &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; use it for that purpose, and so anyone who isn't willing to is at a slight overall disadvantage.  Most of the time, at an FNM or in a casual game like the one you describe, it just doesn't matter; who cares if you're an underdog in a die roll that has a maybe 5% affect on the outcome of a game that's just for fun?  But there are certainly circumstances where it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; matter, and some people just get in the habit of caring about every little thing so that they build the mental rigor for when it does matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for myself, I usually don't care, though at something like a PTQ I'll insist on a more effective means of randomization.  My preferred choice is either to flip a coin with a call in the air (which is about as close to 'I cut, you choose' as a randomization method gets) or to toss about 5d6; they're quick enough to count, and hard enough to really skew that I can trust in the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2021-07-27T15:29:59.337" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T15:29:59.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2012-06-01T17:48:26.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly there are tricks to rolling dice, but I believe all but one of them apply to a D6 at best. The more numbers your die shows, the harder any trick becomes, because a D20 topples much more easier than a D6, because its ratio of weight per single face area is much larger than for a D6, and the angles between faces are much larger than 90°. Compared to a D6, a D20 is practically a ball. A D20 simply cannot hold virtually ANY momentum with a single face, unlike a D6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try painting a small spot on a marble and make it land on exactly that spot. There is pretty much only 1 somewhat reliable way to do it: Spinning the marble on the spot and hoping that it doesn't spin out of control in the end. That's the only trick I can imagine could work for a D20. Fortunately, that trick is trivial to spot, so as long as someone does a normal rolling motion, a D20 should be safe from manipulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that is assuming fair dice - if someone wants to retreat to the position that your die is physically manipulated, you can't disprove that any way short of cutting up your die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2012-06-01T17:48:26.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9529" CreationDate="2012-06-01T22:21:18.860" Score="15" ViewCount="3709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/77130/sid-meiers-civilization-the-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Civilization The Board Game&lt;/a&gt; some times with my girlfriend, but each time, the game quickly becomes a race for the tech-victory. Since it is a large advantage to research tech in general, this victory is easy, and we do never even attack each other, since the tech victory is easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you propose some alternative rules which would change this behavior? We thought about just removing the possibility to win by tech, but my prediction is, that this will just make culture-victory the new tech-victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2918" LastEditorUserId="3555" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T20:56:01.137" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T23:20:05.367" Title="Too many Tech-Victories seen in 2-player rules for Civilization" Tags="|house-rules|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-06-02T13:55:58.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A really fast way to prototype card games I found out is to use Excel to create your cards, and then use Word mailing directory function to import data from an excel spreadsheet. Then you just print then out and put inside a card sleeve protector from a random card you don't use anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good idea too, is to use Google Docs Spreadsheet and edit your card with your friends, then you can download the file as an excel spreadsheet and follow the same steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tip is to use a 2 columns page layout and create your card using simple tables in directory layout, you will save time, ink and paper this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sendspace.com/file/xrw7ar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Excel Data Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sendspace.com/file/vtn0sj&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Word Mailing Directory Example&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2921" LastEditorUserId="2921" LastEditDate="2012-06-05T23:25:18.247" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T23:25:18.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-02T14:38:17.060" Score="3" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a unit of &lt;strong&gt;Troll Fennblades&lt;/strong&gt;.  On my opponent's turn, they are attacked, and many are killed.  Some make a &lt;code&gt;Tough&lt;/code&gt; roll, though, and so are merely &lt;code&gt;Knocked Down&lt;/code&gt;.  In my next &lt;code&gt;Maintenance Phase&lt;/code&gt;, all of the &lt;strong&gt;Fennblades&lt;/strong&gt; are entitled to &lt;code&gt;Vengeance&lt;/code&gt;, which allows them to advance 3&quot; and attack.  Can they give up that 3&quot; move to remove &lt;code&gt;Knocked Down&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T14:51:18.493" Title="Can models give up their Vengeance move to recover from Knocked Down?" Tags="|warmachine|hordes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7512" CreationDate="2012-06-02T14:51:18.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?109675-Knocked-Down-amp-Vengeance&amp;amp;p=1468153#post1468153&quot;&gt;According to Privateer Press Infernals&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; While knocked down, a model cannot advance. A model cannot&#xA;  sacrifice movement/action to stand until the start of its activation,&#xA;  which is well after the Maintenance and Control phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-06-02T14:51:18.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7496" CreationDate="2012-06-03T16:02:21.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is legal. But to add to what others have said, sometimes it may be advantageous for you to play a knight card before you roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the robber occupies a land tile connected to one of your cities or settlements. By playing your knight card and moving the robber you get to collect any cards that the robber would have otherwise blocked, or deny your opponents any cards they may have otherwise collected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, if you roll first, and you roll a number that's occupied by the robber, you lose any cards that you would have otherwise collected if you played the knight card (and moved the robber) before you rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T00:32:08.753" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T00:32:08.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7516" CreationDate="2012-06-03T17:31:17.830" Score="12" ViewCount="12336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've exiled my commander using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt;. Do the tokens it creates from it deal commander damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:41:14.137" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T00:41:14.137" Title="Commander damage from Mimic Vat token?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7515" CreationDate="2012-06-03T17:46:25.983" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The Commander rules state (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R9033&quot;&gt;CR903.3&lt;/a&gt;) state: &quot;[Being a commander] is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute &lt;strong&gt;of the card itself&lt;/strong&gt;. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&quot; and drives the point home with the last example: &quot;A permanent that's copying a commander (such as a Body Double, for example, copying a commander in a player's graveyard) is not a commander.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T17:46:25.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7515" CreationDate="2012-06-03T19:12:56.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is an at attribute of the card itself, not a characteristic that is copyable. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120601.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mtg Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.3. Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A commander that's been turned face down (due to Ixidron's effect, for example) is still a commander. A commander that's copying another card (due to Cytoshape's effect, for example) is still a commander. A permanent that's copying a commander (such as a Body Double, for example, copying a commander in a player's graveyard) is not a commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cards characteristics are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.3. An object's characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, expansion symbol, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects can have some or all of these characteristics. &lt;strong&gt;Any other information about an object isn't a characteristic&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, characteristics don't include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell's target, an object's owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T19:22:07.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7141" CreationDate="2012-06-03T21:45:58.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Breakthrough Gun rules are not covered in the Flames of War 2nd Editon or earlier rule books. This is supported by the comments in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/Documents/Rules/FlamesOfWarThirdEditionQandAApril2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FoW 3rd Edition Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When will you be updating Arsenals to reflect the new rules like Breakthrough Gun and mortars being able to shoot as well as bombard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A new publication, &lt;strong&gt;Know Your Enemy&lt;/strong&gt;, will be released soon. It includes a complete Late-war arsenal to update all Late-war books. We will be updating Mid-war and Early-war books to match over time. Meanwhile, you can use the Late-war updates to guide you on which weapons are rated as &lt;strong&gt;Breakthrough guns&lt;/strong&gt; and the direct-fire capabilities of mortars.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=53&amp;amp;art_id=3126&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;small blurb&lt;/a&gt; on the Battlefront Minature's Flames of War website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breakthrough Gun&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some weapons are just so powerful that there is no chance of surviving a hit from them. These heavy guns are often mounted in tanks and self-propelled guns designed to break through enemy defensive lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infantry teams, Gun teams, and Unarmoured vehicles automatically fail their Saves when hit by a Breakthrough Gun or a Bunker Buster. This does not apply to Artillery Bombardments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=53&amp;amp;art_id=3126&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example of a unit&lt;/a&gt; with the ability is listed just above this on the same page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12.8cm K81 Gun in Flames Of War&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    Weapon              Mobility Range     ROF Anti-tank Firepower Notes&#xA;    12.8cm K81 gun      Immobile 48&amp;quot;/120cm   1        17        2+ Breakthrough gun.&#xA;    Firing bombardments          104&amp;quot;/260cm  -         4        3+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/hobby.aspx?art_id=1068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hammer and Sickle&lt;/a&gt; supplement also mentions the Breakthrough Gun rule. It also fails to mention any additional information about the rule, which leads me to believe that there isn't much more to the rule (although it isn't definitive proof without access to a 3rd Edition rule book, or the &lt;strong&gt;Know Your Enemy&lt;/strong&gt; publication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Heavy Breakthrough Gun rule also returns and applies to the IS-2 and ISU-122. Infantry, Gun tams and Unarmoured vehicles are vulnerable to these massive rounds and automatically fail their save if hit by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-03T21:53:55.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7520" CreationDate="2012-06-04T02:01:05.653" Score="6" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Last Night on Earth the other day with some friends and came across a question that I don't believe is clear in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a Hero fights a zombie (or the other way around), the hero can only be wounded if the zombie's fight die is tied or higher than the highest hero's fight dice.  What if the hero rolls doubles though?  For example, the hero could roll two 1's, but the zombie rolls a 6.  In that situation, does the hero get wounded?  Or is the zombie considered killed before the hero can be wounded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1866" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:17:33.260" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:17:33.260" Title="Can Zombies wound when a Hero rolls doubles?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7519" CreationDate="2012-06-04T02:20:44.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Hero gets wounded. In your example, the Zombie rolled a '6', and Zombies win on ties. The Hero must have a higher die for the Zombie to not win. If the Hero has a higher die, but no doubles then the Zombie is &lt;strong&gt;Fended Off&lt;/strong&gt;. The Zombie is only wounded if the hero has a higher roll &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; has rolled doubles on any of their Fight Dice. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/lastnightonearth/pdf/LNOE_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 15).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resolving the Fight&lt;/strong&gt; - A Fight is only resolved after all players have decided not to use any more cards or abilities. Once both players have chosen their highest Fight Dice roll and are done using cards and abilities, the fight is resolved as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Zombie wins (has a higher die or is tied for highest), the Hero takes one Wound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Hero has a higher roll, the Zombie is &lt;em&gt;Fended Off&lt;/em&gt;. The fight ends and both the Hero and Zombie remain in the space, unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Hero has a higher roll and has rolled doubles on ANY of the Fight Dice (two 5's for instance), the Zombie takes one Wound (removing it from the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T02:35:18.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7522" CreationDate="2012-06-04T09:22:38.003" Score="12" ViewCount="2625" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror I was moved by an encounter to another location. This location had a clue on it, should I have picked up the clue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T21:23:48.747" Title="If you are moved to a location with a clue do you pick it up?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-06-04T11:09:47.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question isn't covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;. The rule book lists two different ways of picking up Clue tokens. The first is when you end your movement in a location that contains a Clue token, or when a Clue token is placed in your location from a Mythos card. I think that if you were moved to a location with a Clue token you could claim it, but it isn't definitive in my mind. &lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; some discussion on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5732912#5732912&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; indicate that this was probably an oversight, and will likely be corrected in the forthcomming FAQv2. This is similar to how the Mythos collection of Clue token was corrected in later versions of the rulebook and in the current FAQ. This is just conjecture at this point though, so officially you cannot collect Clue tokens after being moved via an enounter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.math.iupui.edu/~bramsey/AH_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Phase II: Movement&lt;/strong&gt; (page 8):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Picking Up Clues&lt;/strong&gt; - Any time an investigator ends his movement in a location that contains Clue tokens, he may immediately take any or all of those Clue tokens. The investigator may not take any Clue tokens if he merely moves through the location and then continues his movement: He must end his movement in the location containing the Clue tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on in the instructions under &lt;strong&gt;Phase V: Mythos&lt;/strong&gt; (page 10):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Place Clue Token&lt;/strong&gt; - Most mythos cards indicate a location where a Clue token appears. Place a Clue token on the indicated location unless there is an open gate there. If one or more investigators are at that location, one of them (they should decide among themselves) may immediately take that Clue token. If the players cannot agree on who gets the Clue token, the first player decides&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-04T21:23:48.747" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T21:23:48.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7521" CreationDate="2012-06-04T14:08:15.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;.  In order to pick up a clue token, you must end your movement in that space.  Since the encounters is after the movement phase, it is too late to end your movement there, and the clue remains.  Where you to stay there next turn, you could then pick up the clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T14:08:15.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2012-06-04T16:43:05.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also Mafia games played in forums like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.es/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CF0QFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://forum.mafiascum.net/&amp;amp;ei=E-XMT4rtLIS5hAf8rMm9Dw&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHIxL2bpC1TeNmehcQPT6gPGJgFLw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mafiascum.net&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="550" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T16:43:05.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7483" CreationDate="2012-06-04T23:41:36.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: Glory to Rome is one of my all time favorite games, I may be biased in encouraging others to try it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the chief source of complexity and challenge to people new to this type of game is multiple roles for the same card.  Players who are able to reconcile in Race for the Galaxy that the same physical piece of cardboard can be a planet or development, a good, or a payment for a cost, should not be too challenged by this.  The same physical piece of cardboard filling different purposes in different contexts is fundamental to Glory To Rome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall complexity of the game rules is mitigated by the fact that for each turn a player leads a role and everyone else must follow.  So in any given turn everyone has basically the same reduced set of options available to them, and you all learn together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion, anyone who's not intimidated by the insane information density of Race for the Galaxy cards, and has wrapped their head around the context-sensitivity, will have no issues with Glory to Rome.  (and can master its functionality, if not strategy, in one playthrough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only negative comment might be it may become more luck based with only two players who have mastered the fundamentals, similar to Race with 2 players where it is close to being two solitaire games.  (That is speculative based on the observation that in larger games players can get boosted back in by people who needed the same lead they did, or held back by conspiring social forces.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-06-04T23:41:36.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7528" CreationDate="2012-06-05T18:04:01.397" Score="10" ViewCount="14768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a Red-White commander deck using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240034&quot;&gt;Gisela&lt;/a&gt; as my commander.  I noticed that my deck is incredibly weak against a deck with any sort of indestructible creature.  I know of the board sweeper &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262703&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt;, but I was wondering if red/white has any other tricks up its sleeve to get rid of tricky creatures.  I'm looking for both sweepers and target-specific cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:47:07.697" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T02:54:00.940" Title="How can I get rid of indestructible creatures with a Red and White deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-06-05T18:31:14.460" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of general answers for indestructible permanents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exile effects, which are your real bread-and-butter for all kinds of removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Toughness-reducing effects against creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrifice effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Tuck&quot; (move to library) effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bouncing permanents (temporary).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stealing permanents: the indestructible thing isn't a problem if you control it, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability- and action- restricting cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPacifism%5d&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt;, if all you're worried about is disabling a card rather than removing it from the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White is probably the strongest color for dealing with indestructible permanents after they've resolved. Some of your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblivion%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=t%3Aenchantment%20commander%3Awr%20o%3Aexile%20o%3Apermanent%20o%3Aleaves&amp;amp;unique=cards&amp;amp;as=grid&amp;amp;order=name&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar enchantments&lt;/a&gt; provide single-shot answers to any non-land permanent. Note, in particular, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrasp%20of%20Fate%5d&quot;&gt;Grasp of Fate&lt;/a&gt; as the multiplayer-oriented variant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPath%20to%20Exile%5d&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSwords%20to%20Plowshares%5d&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt; are low-cost instant answers for creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bReturn%20to%20Dust%5d&quot;&gt;Return to Dust&lt;/a&gt; for is a nice two-for-one against artifacts and enchantments.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFinal%20Judgement%5d&quot;&gt;Final Judgement&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDescend%20Upon%20the%20Sinful%5d&quot;&gt;Descend Upon the Sinful&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFalse%20Prophet%5d&quot;&gt;False Prophet&lt;/a&gt; are an exile-based sweeper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHallowed%20Burial%5d&quot;&gt;Hallowed Burial&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTerminus%5d&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt; are &quot;tuck&quot;-based sweepers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCondemn%5d&quot;&gt;Condemn&lt;/a&gt; can &quot;tuck&quot; a troublesome creature, although only when it's attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPacifism%5d&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; effects may be good enough if you're just trying to get rid of a blocker or prevent a card from using its activated abilities; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFaith%27s%5d%2b%5bFetters%5d&quot;&gt;Faith&amp;#39;s Fetters&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPrison%20Term%5d&quot;&gt;Prison Term&lt;/a&gt; are probably the best choice there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAngel%20of%20the%20Dire%20Hour%5d&quot;&gt;Angel of the Dire Hour&lt;/a&gt; can wipe out a wave of indestructible attackers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElesh%20Norn%5d&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn&lt;/a&gt; will clear out a lot of weenies even if they're indestructible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEvangelize%5d&quot;&gt;Evangelize&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; mana: steal all their stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGideon%2c%20Champion%20of%20Justice%5d&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt; will exile everything else on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblation%5d&quot;&gt;Oblation&lt;/a&gt; &quot;tucks&quot; any nonland permanent at the cost of giving your opponent more cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In red:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChaos%20Warp%5d&quot;&gt;Chaos Warp&lt;/a&gt; can &quot;tuck&quot; anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInto%20the%20Core%5d&quot;&gt;Into the Core&lt;/a&gt; can answer indestructible artifacts like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDarksteel%20Forge%5d&quot;&gt;Darksteel Forge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bApocalypse%5d&quot;&gt;Apocalypse&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDecree%20of%20Annihilation%5d&quot;&gt;Decree of Annihilation&lt;/a&gt; are exile-based sweepers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWarp%20World%5d&quot;&gt;Warp World&lt;/a&gt; and similar cards will remove the offending permanents, at the cost of giving your opponent new toys to replace them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInsurrection%5d&quot;&gt;Insurrection&lt;/a&gt; will let you take all of an opponent's creatures for a turn &amp;mdash; usually that's enough to finish off a player or feed them all to a sacrifice outlet like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAshnod%27s%5d%2b%5bAltar%5d&quot;&gt;Ashnod&amp;#39;s Altar&lt;/a&gt; so you don't have to give them back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colorless cards worth noting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDuplicant%5d&quot;&gt;Duplicant&lt;/a&gt; is a popular card for exiling creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrittle%20Effigy%5d&quot;&gt;Brittle Effigy&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAmulet%20of%20Unmaking%5d&quot;&gt;Amulet of Unmaking&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHelvault%5d&quot;&gt;Helvault&lt;/a&gt; provide targeted exile effects, though not very cost-effectively compared to what you can get in white.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUgin%2c%20the%20Spirit%20Dragon%5d&quot;&gt;Ugin, the Spirit Dragon&lt;/a&gt; can easily exile multiple troublesome permanents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAll%20Is%20Dust%5d&quot;&gt;All Is Dust&lt;/a&gt; is a sacrifice-based sweeper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T19:06:18.067" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T19:06:18.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-06-05T18:44:43.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although toughness reduction is not particularly white or red (which does gets +&lt;em&gt;/-&lt;/em&gt; effects, though), you could look at creatures with Wither or Infect. In control-stealing, red has many temporary stealing spells and effects with stuff like Act of Treason, Blind with Anger, Grab the Reins, Mark of Mutiny, Threaten, Tibalt, Traitorous Blood, Zealous Conscripts... White has the non-time limited Preacher, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2012-06-05T18:44:43.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7527" CreationDate="2012-06-05T18:58:23.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bApocalypse%5d&quot;&gt;Apocalypse&lt;/a&gt; , &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPath%20to%20Exile%5d&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSwords%20to%20Plowshares%5d&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCrib%20Swap%5d&quot;&gt;Crib Swap&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bParallax%20Wave%5d&quot;&gt;Parallax Wave&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArchon%20of%20Justice%5d&quot;&gt;Archon of Justice&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWitch%20Hunter%5d&quot;&gt;Witch Hunter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEvangelize%5d&quot;&gt;Evangelize&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHelm%20of%20Possession%5d&quot;&gt;Helm of Possession&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPreacher%5d&quot;&gt;Preacher&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTariff%5d&quot;&gt;Tariff&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWarp%20World%5d&quot;&gt;Warp World&lt;/a&gt;, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most effective answer is to learn to use the Gatherers Advanced Search to search for keywords in the rules &lt;strong&gt;sacrifice, exile, gain control&lt;/strong&gt;, then exclude cards that are not &lt;strong&gt;red, white, or colorless&lt;/strong&gt;*. You will get some false positives, but it is a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?page=1&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+!%5BB%5D+!%5BU%5D+!%5BG%5D&amp;amp;text=+%5BExile%5D+%5Btarget%5D+%5Bcreature%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Color=NOT(B|U|G) AND Text=Exile+Target+Creature&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+!%5BB%5D+!%5BU%5D+!%5BG%5D&amp;amp;text=+%5BSacrifices%5D+%5Btarget%5D+%5Bcreature%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Color=NOT(B|U|G) AND Text=Sacrifices+Target+Creature&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like so: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+!%5BB%5D+!%5BU%5D+!%5BG%5D&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22Gain%20control%20of%20target%20creature%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Color=NOT(B|U|G) AND Text=&amp;quot;Gain Control of Target Creature&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2020-10-12T02:54:00.940" LastActivityDate="2020-10-12T02:54:00.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2012-06-06T03:25:21.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We ordered a Pegs &amp;amp; Jokers board and it came with rules.  It does specify that the 7 or 9 can be split with your partner to the left, when moving your last peg into your castle, as long as that partner has a peg in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2929" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T03:25:21.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7532" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-06-06T07:00:24.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adaptations of boardgames allow people to play a game in different circumstances than originally envisioned by the designer of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes adapting the boardgame to run on a computer or with computer assistence, run it on a mobile device or on some game console.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other adaptations occur when the game is modified to suit a different number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual pieces of the boardgame can be adapted as well. Ranging from making the board to play on more robust/stiff to complete redesign of the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New rules seems to be the most available adaptation. This happens accidently when people misread the rule book; start mixing different versions of the rules or come up with complete new ways of handling events in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2858" LastEditorUserId="2858" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T15:08:46.070" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T15:08:46.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7533" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-06-06T07:00:24.213" Score="0" Body="Adapations of boardgames to different platforms (such as computers and mobile devices), as well as to new rules or specifications outside those provided by the designer (e.g. number of players outside the 'official' range)." OwnerUserId="2858" LastEditorUserId="2858" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T15:08:59.843" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T15:08:59.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-06-06T14:02:55.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble finding one that would cut out playing card sized cards but you might be able to find a craft punch that will cut cards to a particular size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you can get passport photo punches that cut out a passport photo sized rectangle from a sheet, you can probably buy one that is business/playing card shaped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These might be what you are looking for but the bigger one is scalloped which I think means the edges are going to be a bit wibbly the smaller one is quite small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dovecraft-Lever-Punch-Scalloped-Rectangle/dp/B005OPO4HG/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1338990564&amp;amp;sr=8-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scalloped Rectangle Punch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Woodware-Mega-Lever-Craft-Punch/dp/B005YG1JRI?SubscriptionId=AKIAJGH22R74RS37SYSA&amp;amp;tag=supapricouk-21&amp;amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;amp;camp=2025&amp;amp;creative=165953&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B005YG1JRI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rectangle Punch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lybrary.com/corner-rounder-18-3-mm-p-33513.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Corner Rounder you can use to round the corners of your cards&lt;/a&gt; Which would allow you to use a regular guillotine to cut your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="1965" LastEditDate="2012-06-06T14:16:13.130" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T14:16:13.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-06-06T14:06:12.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I've already answered but I've found an article on making your own playing cards that you might find useful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wopc.co.uk/otc/production.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wopc.co.uk/otc/production.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T14:06:12.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7537" CreationDate="2012-06-06T15:14:15.613" Score="7" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror you have to roll a cumulative number of successes equal to the number of players to knock off a doom token from the Elder God's health. If you reach the number of players worth of successes do you then stop counting for the player and move on or do you count the extra successes against the next doom token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played it so that you kept on adding them but it meant that we turned Nyalothotep into mince meat quite quickly (One Character was blessed had a fight of 6 a shotgun and Fight +1 skill card though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T02:14:21.257" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T02:14:21.257" Title="In the Final Battle, when you remove doom tokens for rolling successes against an Ancient One do you stop counting successes for that roll?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7536" CreationDate="2012-06-06T15:19:43.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I Just Read the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: In combat with an Ancient One, how do cumulative &#xA;successes in the “Investigators Attack” step work?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; To defeat the Ancient One, the players must do a total &#xA;number of successes equal to the number of players multiplied by the number of doom tokens on the Ancient One.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if 4 players are facing Yig (doom track of 10), they &#xA;need 40 successes to win. For every 4 successes they do, &#xA;they remove 1 doom token to track their progress. If the &#xA;investigators get 9 successes in the first round of combat, &#xA;they would remove 2 doom tokens, and 1 success would &#xA;carry over to the next round of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T15:19:43.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2012-06-06T21:14:17.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If 20 and 2 are next to each other, adding a weight to the opposite side of the dice would increase the chances of a both 20 and 2 getting rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 20 and 19 are next to each other, adding a weight to the opposite side of the dice would increase the chances of rolling a high number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, it's easier to make a trick dice if it's a countdown dice. This matters if only one person uses the trick dice, but it sounds like this isn't the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T21:14:17.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-06-06T23:35:12.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a card game.  I made a prototype in 24 hours with $15.&#xA;I made laid groups of 8 cards out on a normal paper sized image file.&#xA;I made another image with the backs of the cards. I use Gimp to edit photos , it's free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make a set of 100 cards I had to make about 12 pages (24 including back pages)&#xA;I dropped the image filess off at Staples and asked to be printed on thick card stock and to be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not perfectly cut but great for friends.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/Phasefirefilms/status/210515000840814593/photo/1/large&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check out an image from it!&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/Phasefirefilms/status/210515000840814593/photo/1/large&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://twitter.com/Phasefirefilms/status/210515000840814593/photo/1/large&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2932" LastActivityDate="2012-06-06T23:35:12.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7541" CreationDate="2012-06-07T04:13:52.920" Score="7" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;My copy of Settlers of Catan has been missing the rule book for a while. The Catan official site has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/gamerules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rule book available for download&lt;/a&gt;, but since it contains a lot of block backgrounds, it's not really printer friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere I can download a printer friendly version of the base game full rules? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T20:02:26.203" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T20:02:26.203" Title="Where can I find a printer friendly version of the settlers of catan rulebook?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7540" CreationDate="2012-06-07T04:29:36.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be a version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://bostandjiev.com/Content/_settlers_of_catan/settlers_of_catan-almanac.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original rules&lt;/a&gt;. The only rules differences (from 4th Edition) would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That now you can move the Robber to the desert.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading and Building are not distinct phases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harbors are now part of the island border.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T04:38:07.190" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T04:38:07.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7549" CreationDate="2012-06-07T09:37:36.873" Score="27" ViewCount="9959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in building up a decent collection of generic components that I can grab when I want to throw together a quick prototype of a game. I'm not aware of any &quot;component collections&quot; that you can actually buy (I guess there may not be much of a market for them) but if I'm wrong, feel free to link me to one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect then, that what I'm looking for is a game that has good value-for-money for the components since that's all I'm interested in. For that reason, the actual gameplay or rules are irrelevant to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the components themselves, I expect I'd be looking at a Euro for plentiful generic pieces (more Ameritrash games tend to have components that aren't particularly generic; I'd rather they not be moulded spaceships, or treasure chests or animals or whatever). For instance, I'm looking for lots of cubes in various colours, maybe a few meeples in different colours too. Cards aren't so important to me since they can be easily prototyped from index cards etc. Agricola came to mind when I first thought about it, but that's quite pricey. (But who knows? Maybe the price-per-component value is actually quite good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that prices etc differ in different places, so I'm not looking for a game guaranteed to be available cheaply near me, but I'd be interested to hear how people have solved this problem in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: Thanks for the tips guys! The online resources look really good, but are all based in the US and I'm based in the UK! If anyone knows of any online solutions that can cheaply ship to the UK that would be great. The cost of shipping from the US kind of counteracts the cheapness in the first place!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T08:58:30.493" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T01:24:44.440" Title="What's a good source of generic pieces/components?" Tags="|game-design|prototyping|components|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7551" CreationDate="2012-06-07T10:04:28.797" Score="3" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a reasonably big coffee table that we use for playing board games, but having played Arkham Horror on it It's starting to feel a little cramped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought It might be a good idea to get a board of wood and cover it with felt that I can bring out on came nights to give us a bigger playing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure I can fit a board as big as my table in my car though so I was wondering if anyone had seen any tutorials on building a hinged gaming board that I can fold up to give me a playing surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main issue is making the hinges flush so they don't get in the way.scratch the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:09:40.843" Title="Design for board to put on table to make it bigger?" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2012-08-28T13:37:19.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2012-06-07T11:56:20.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're in luck.  Fantasy Flight Games sells sets like &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/productdetails.cfm?SKU=FFS39&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; in a variety of colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible source is your local craft store.  Not sure if they have these in your area, but Michael's and Hobby Lobby(slightly better selection) are worth checking out.  There's usually an aisle devoted to wood crafts.  You can usually find lots of nice inexpensive fiddly bits.  They usually come unpainted, so you'll need to buy a few cans of spray paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;3D printing&lt;/a&gt; on demand is getting to be reasonably priced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2012-06-07T12:28:27.987" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T12:28:27.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7545" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-07T13:26:30.900" Score="8" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/35935/day-night&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Day and Night&lt;/a&gt; when you are playing Day mystify rarely seems to be useful. Towards the start of the game time spent attempting to mystify squares will either be wasted when night swiftly reverses them, or gain you a square which doesn't end up being important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards the end of the game, time spent trying to mystify a couple of key locations to force a win often results in night overwhelming you with quick tile turn-overs to gain their second temple, when it would have been better for you to simply concentrate on turning over night's tiles to prevent this directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T12:11:53.850" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T12:11:53.850" Title="When is mystify worth using?" Tags="|day-and-night|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6345" CreationDate="2012-06-07T15:21:47.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are going for a one resource strategy(a 2:1 port and multiple good hexes), then Ore is definitely the best. With only one resource, settlements/roads will be expensive to build. This leaves cities as your main early game expansion option. Since you need 3 ore to 2 corn, ore is the better choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just going for a general game, then you want all the resources, but sheep is definitely less important than corn. (As it is not required for cities.) You can make do without sheep by trading for it when you need a settlement, while wood/bricks are needed in large numbers for roads/settlements and corn/ore are needed for cities and development cards in large amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; win a game without wood/bricks (2 cities, largest army and 4 VP cards) But you &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; win a game without ore. (5 settlements and longest road=7VP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-06-07T15:21:47.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7548" CreationDate="2012-06-07T17:58:59.080" Score="5" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once saw a very nice write-up of the ways in which people enjoy board games. It was somewhat similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6786/1749&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; but more comprehensive, focused on different ways of enjoyment rather than different types of people, and it had more technical sounding terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to find it again. I specifically remember that it had terms for the enjoyment of strategic thinking and finding the optimum strategy, and another for creating interesting or unusual situations -- which I related to a lot and had never heard described before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the ways that people enjoy board games, as generally and technically as possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:33:19.833" Title="Ways different people enjoy board games" Tags="|psychology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7547" CreationDate="2012-06-07T23:54:18.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ways of enjoyment:&#xA;1. Joy of playing &#xA;2. Joy of winning&#xA;3. The Social event of gathering to play&#xA;4. Joy by Tinkering&#xA;5. Joy of collecting&#xA;6. Joy of sharing&#xA;7. Joy of Learning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In detail...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fun of Playing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some people, the play of a game is its own reward. For many people, this is true of some, but not all, games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fun of Winning&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most of us, winning is, itself, fun. One experiences some joy at winning, especially in the face of adversity, be it a hard solitaire or a multi-player contest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a few, playing isn't fun, but winning is; playing is the cost for the chance at the fun of winning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Social Event&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people's enjoyment is about or enhanced by the social event aspects of board and card games. The gathering is itself fun, even if the games themselves turn out not to be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventions are an extreme example of this. My own local group of friends seldom gather without something hitting the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Joy of Tinkering&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some people, house rules aren't for fixing things that didn't work, but a way of finding enjoyment all their own. By expanding, revising, &quot;pimping,&quot; or strategizing, outside the playtimes, one can find enjoyment of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pimping a game means acquiring or making better looking components than the included ones... and it borders on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not properly &quot;tinkering,&quot; strategizing falls into the same basic mode - deriving non-play enjoyment from spending time figuring out how the game works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Joy of Collecting&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some, enjoyment is in the having. Either by getting everything for one game, or having lots of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Joy of Sharing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some, the joy is in the sharing of the games. Either by teaching, by revieing, or by discussing with others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some ways, it's similar to the joy of the event; in others, it's different. As with collecting and tinkering, a lot of this is outside the actual realm of playing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Joy of Learning&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some, this is part of the joy of playing, or of sharing... for others, it's an enjoyment factor all its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-06-08T12:12:05.753" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:12:05.753" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2012-06-08T02:41:30.150" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have several options if you want to collect a large set of generic components so that you can throw your own prototype together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/14556/thrift-store-games-you-buy-just-for-the-components&quot;&gt;Thrift Store games you buy just for the components&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you frequent thrift stores regularly, you can pick up cheap games ($2-$4 usually) specifially just to harvest the components from them. Some good examples from the list above are (with linked pictures of the components):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/566324/scrabble&quot;&gt;Scrabble&lt;/a&gt; : 100 Wooden Tiles. The backs are blank, or you could have the letters have some meaning within your game, or cover up the letters with stickers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/114505/risk&quot;&gt;Risk&lt;/a&gt; : Colored Wooden Cubes/Plastic Stars. Old and Classic Editions come with wooden cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3845/yahtzee-jr&quot;&gt;Yahtzee Jr.&lt;/a&gt; : 1&quot; indented Cubes. Useful if you want to make custom dice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/678117/advance-to-boardwalk&quot;&gt;Advance to Boardwalk&lt;/a&gt; : 4 Colors of 20 stackable squares. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/159826/upwords&quot;&gt;Upwwords&lt;/a&gt; comes with stackable letters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/890980/trumpet&quot;&gt;Trumpet&lt;/a&gt; : Cards numbered 1-11 in 6 different suits, when you want to design 5-6 player games and a standard deck won't do.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/212998/bottle-topps&quot;&gt;Bottletops&lt;/a&gt; : Hundreds of Wooden disks, most white, some red.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7316/bingo&quot;&gt;Bingo&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/96673/sequence&quot;&gt;Sequence&lt;/a&gt; : The $1 Store version of these usually come with red plastic &quot;tiddlywinks&quot;, or numbered cardboard chits (useful for wargaming).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/96104/pente&quot;&gt;Pente&lt;/a&gt; : Colored glass beads in two colors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/6632/global-survival&quot;&gt;Global Pursuit&lt;/a&gt; - Paper money.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/272309/dicecapades&quot;&gt;Dicecapades&lt;/a&gt; : More dice than you will know what do do with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/352478/sorry&quot;&gt;Sorry&lt;/a&gt;/Pachisi : 4 Colored pawns in 4 colors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Buy a Piecepack or similar game system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.piecepack.org/FAQ.html&quot;&gt;Piecepack&lt;/a&gt; is a game system that comes with some predefined generic playing pieces. It is an open board game development platform. Anyone can design and release their own games using Piecepack components, and there will already be an installed player base with the components to play it. The components are offered by different vendors, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mesomorph.com/images/FourthEditionFull.jpg&quot;&gt;this one is $30&lt;/a&gt;, the components in a standard Piecepack are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.piecepack.org/Anatomy.html&quot;&gt;listed here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other game systems like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/225/icehouse&quot;&gt;IceHouse&lt;/a&gt; (I am not certain of the openness of this game system. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/looney-pyramids&quot;&gt;Looney Labs&lt;/a&gt; owns a patent on it, but it may have expired), and Orion. For more information, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamesjournal.com/articles/GameSystems1.shtml&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Buy generic components from websites.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/63183/print-play-productions-parts&quot;&gt;Print-N-Play&lt;/a&gt; productions offers a wide selection of colored wooden bits, meeples, dice, and other game accessories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.purefunsupply.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=LER0134&amp;amp;Click=634&quot;&gt;Educational Supply&lt;/a&gt; stores offer colored wooden/plastic cubes, colored tiles, and other tools that could be used to prototype a board game. I have purchased a tub of 1000 plastic 1 cm. cubes from a local educational supply store for about $22, although &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eaieducation.com/search.aspx?Keyword=color%20cubes%3a%20plastic&amp;amp;category=-1&quot;&gt;prices will vary&lt;/a&gt; by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000XP5WBO&quot;&gt;size of the supplier&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T02:41:30.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7547" CreationDate="2012-06-08T08:28:18.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Understanding the reasons why people play the games will help when going through the process of publishing a board game.   If your game does not excite people in one these ways, then it will be unlikely to sell very well to the public or to a game publisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board games create a framework within which we can interact with our friends in a friendly competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board games require us to think, experiment, and otherwise exercise our minds.&#xA;Board games provide us a way to escape from our current lives.  They provide a desired experience that we cannot obtain in real life.  Good examples of games that accomplish this are Terra Prime, Twilight Imperium 3rd Edition, Railroad Tycoon, War of the Ring, and all role playing games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board games provide an easy way to have fun with family and friends in a personal way.  It is not as personal as direct conversation or sports, but it is significantly more personal than watching a movie, television, or playing video games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These motivations are not meant to be an exhaustive list.  I want to concentrate on the escape from life motivation for board gaming, because it is the most difficult to accomplish.  The process begins at the game design stage, and boils down to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T08:28:18.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7543" CreationDate="2012-06-08T12:09:40.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a relatively simple project. While specific plans would need to be done using  the dimensions of the  table desired, it's very basic power-tool carpentry. It requires high precision, and the correct hinges, but isn't hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you can just put the hinges outboard of the supporting table's width, on the underside. Let the table hold the panels up. So, if you have a desire for a 3'6&amp;quot; wide, 6' long surface, but a 2' wide table, and need it to fit into your 3x5' trunk, you rip a board to 3'6&amp;quot; wide, 6' long, then rip it to  two chunks 3' long. Finish the edges as desired, except the two which will face. Roundover the underside with a 1/4&amp;quot; roundover, and mount standard door hinges (4&amp;quot; wide) equally distant from the central table and the edge. (That should be 42-(2x4&amp;quot; hinges)-(24&amp;quot; central table)/4&amp;quot; from edge - 1.25&amp;quot; in from edge.) If being particularly fancy, you use a straight-cut bit and route out the hinges flush, so it folds truly flat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If felting it, mount the hinges so that two compressed felt layers separate the two pieces, and the felt gets mounted so it covers the ends with the hinges. (This ensures that one only has a line between them, so stuff can't get under the felt easily.) also wrap it around the other edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to both glue and either nail or staple the felt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;resource videos&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask this Old House has a show that shows recessing door hinges. Uses a jig, two clamps, and a hand router. Or, alternatively, a wood chisel, and some patience. (if using engineered wood products, use the router.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New Yankee Workshop, American Woodshop, Rough Cut, or The Woodsmith Shop all have covered hinges, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;advanced technique&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make it thick enough, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.soss.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soss hinge&lt;/a&gt; could be used; their smallest one is 3/8&amp;quot; and needs 3/32&amp;quot; clearance on the folded-in side (and at least as much outside) for 9/16&amp;quot; wood thickness minimum. It will, however, affect the felting. Soss hinges require skill at mortising, which is a more advanced (and past my level) skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:09:40.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7547" CreationDate="2012-06-08T12:33:19.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic The Gathering is an unusual type of &quot;board game&quot; (if at all!) but its creators have spent a lot of time subdividing Magic players into psychographic profiles, and I think a lot of their conclusions are applicable across the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr258&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr258&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give a brief synopsis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timmies&lt;/strong&gt; want to &quot;experience&quot; something.  The fun and social aspects, the exciting moments that you can tell people about how cool they were later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Johnnies&lt;/strong&gt; want to &quot;express&quot; something.  They want to show off how creative or clever or strange they are through the medium of gaming.  Obviously it's easier to express oneself in a deckbuilding game of near-infinite scope like Magic... but I guess people who are constantly coming up with house rules for boardgames are Johnnies of a kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spikes&lt;/strong&gt; want to &quot;prove&quot; something.  Winning games, or mastering games, or coming up with better ways to win than the rest of the group has yet discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's potentially another group called (oddly) &lt;strong&gt;Vorthoses&lt;/strong&gt; who like the art and flavour of games, but they're a bit of a quirky subcategory even in MtG...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway the article I link to says it all better than I can, but it's definitely a good read for anyone thinking about gameplayer psychographics, so I urge you to check it out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T12:33:19.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5347" CreationDate="2012-06-08T13:10:44.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. You don't &lt;strong&gt;play&lt;/strong&gt; PVP Defense cards, you &lt;strong&gt;use&lt;/strong&gt; abilities on those cards. &lt;strong&gt;Twisp&lt;/strong&gt; doesn't mention copying PvP Defense abilities. This is supported by the fact that &lt;strong&gt;play&lt;/strong&gt; is only used in reference to a player's own turn. From the correct &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/7zxj4c7sa5/PA_Rulebook_FINAL.pdf?&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PVP ATTACKS AND DEFENSES&lt;/strong&gt; - Some cards allow you to make a PvP Attack against the other players in the game. When you play a card with a PvP Attack ability, each other player has an opportunity to block the attack with a card that has a PvP Defense ability. A player &lt;strong&gt;using a PvP Defense card’s ability&lt;/strong&gt; negates the attack only for that defending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Twisp&lt;/strong&gt;: Catsby’s special card Twisp simply &lt;strong&gt;copies all abilities of any other card played in a turn&lt;/strong&gt;, including Tokens, Power, card drawing, and PvP Attacks. If the card would be deleted, then Twisp is deleted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Baby Ninja&lt;/strong&gt; - {2}, &lt;strong&gt;+1 Power&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;PVP Defense:&lt;/strong&gt; Discard this card to block a &lt;strong&gt;PVP Attack&lt;/strong&gt;. If you do, draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jim Darkmagic: Jim’s special hero power must be used before you &lt;strong&gt;take any actions or play any cards for your turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-08T13:10:44.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-06-09T10:06:36.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;ASL has two levels of secrecy: the simpler is &lt;em&gt;concealment&lt;/em&gt;, where you place a blank counter (actually marked '?') on top of every stack, and have a few stacks consisting only of blanks; when the other player 'would see' the stack (it moves in the open, is successfully fired at, etc.), you take the blank (or blanks) off. &lt;em&gt;Hidden&lt;/em&gt; requires you to write down a hex number for each hidden unit, with any relevant information (equipment, facing...). When you want that unit to act, you have to put it on the board (possibly concealed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to have one board for each player, with a barrier between them. On your board you place your own units and your guess as to the enemy dispositions. A neutral referee checks each move (ideally having his own board, which will be right for both sides), and reports what is visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T14:56:36.187" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T14:56:36.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-06-09T10:50:24.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some game resolve this with having your units as cards, with a monogenous backside. The player will have a stack of cards with units on them, ranging from strong to weak. He also have a stack of blank decoy cards, and when he places the cards on the battlemap, only he knows which contains units and which are blanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this method, you can also make some sneaky bluffs with the number of cards you put in each stack, which order you place them in and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T10:50:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4086" CreationDate="2012-06-09T11:08:50.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your logic is undeniable, and it seems by all accounts to be a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALL other cards that allows questions have the question type as a keyword. Seems like this one slipped through their fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T11:08:50.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T14:20:31.920" Score="4" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reading my Glory to Rome instruction booklet and I do not understand how the pool works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are players free to choose any card they wish from the pool, or are they just supposed to draw the top card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2941" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-06-10T04:20:01.167" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T21:25:32.703" Title="How does the pool work in Glory to Rome?" Tags="|glory-to-rome|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7558" CreationDate="2012-06-09T18:20:07.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Spanish version of the game has really badly translated instructions. The English version (latest version downloadable &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/78587/blackbox-edition-rulebook-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) is clearer (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place all the &lt;strong&gt;face up&lt;/strong&gt; Order cards [which are revealed during setup] in the middle of the playing surface &#xA;  beside the pile of Jacks — they are the starting Pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 4 shows an image of the cards in the Pool face-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EsQuB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2941" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T13:23:16.937" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T13:23:16.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-09T19:48:49.617" Score="7" ViewCount="3349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a Commander which has been turned into a copy of another card still do commander damage (i.e. will 21 damage dealt to a single player from the copy lose the game for that player)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, does a card which has been turned into a copy of a commander do commander damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of both cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our antagonist has 50 life and no commander damage dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our protagonist has a (any) commander and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Malignus&quot;&gt;Malignus&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protagonist enchants &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Malignus&quot;&gt;Malignus&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infinite%20Reflection&quot;&gt;Infinite Reflection&lt;/a&gt; and then attacks with his/her commander (which is a copy of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Malignus&quot;&gt;Malignus&lt;/a&gt;). Antagonist does not block. 25 damage is dealt. Does our protagonist win the game due to commander damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our antagonist has 50 life and no commander damage dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our protagonist has a 6/6 commander and 3 other non token creatures on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protagonist enchants his/her commander with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infinite%20Reflection&quot;&gt;Infinite Reflection&lt;/a&gt; and then attacks with all 4 creatures. Antagonist does not block. 24 damage is dealt (6 per creature). Does our protagonist win the game due to commander damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the answer to one of these questions should be yes. I feel like it's probably the first one (a commander turned into a copy of another card doesn't lose its commander-ness), but I'm not familiar enough with the rules to say for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2919" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:42:21.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-25T01:39:57.890" Title="How does Infinite Reflection work with Commander and commander damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2012-06-09T20:49:34.173" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the answer to this in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120601.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.3. Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object&#xA;  represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card&#xA;  itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: A commander that's been turned face down (due to Ixidron's&#xA;  effect, for example) is still a commander. A commander that's copying&#xA;  another card (due to Cytoshape's effect, for example) is still a&#xA;  commander. A permanent that's copying a commander (such as a Body&#xA;  Double, for example, copying a commander in a player's graveyard) is&#xA;  not a commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is that in the first example (commander copying Malignus) the antagonist loses the game. In the second he/she does not (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2919" LastActivityDate="2012-06-09T20:49:34.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7001" CreationDate="2012-06-10T09:17:43.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sadly the answer is no. After talking with some hardcore Starcraft Board Game people, and a FFG crew member, I have come to the conclusion that noone (as of yet) have made a collection or site with Starcraft scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They really hoped for more scenarios, but most fans called that the possibilities were too limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was able to find a few scenarios on this lovely list, but it's not exacly a collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are feeling creative, Im sure the community would love a site about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/1188/starcraft-the-board-game/variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek : StarCraft Brood Wars scenarios, variations and maps&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T09:17:43.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4998" CreationDate="2012-06-10T09:48:53.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides for the Mexico variation, the reprint have slightly grayer art and a photo of the game in use on its backside..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the two games for comparison :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EE2OE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastEditorUserId="2936" LastEditDate="2012-06-10T09:55:59.047" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T09:55:59.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-10T10:53:53.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1459" Body="&lt;p&gt;Time and time again, skill checks in Arkham Horror have been made without remembering to include certain factors, such as environments and the presence of stat-modifying items.  For organizational purposes, is there a flowchart by which all the skill check modifiers can be ordered and accounted for so that none may be missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Combat Checks can be processed in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the monster is Dark Pharoah then the base stat is Lore  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the base stat of Fight if not set already &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for skills that affect base stat of Fight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for allies that affect base stat of Fight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for Mythos environments that affect base stat of Fight (e.g. Heat Wave)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for skills that negate Physical, Magical, or Weapon Immunity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for allies that negate Physical, Magical, or Weapon Immunity &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for tradeable items that negate Physical, Magical, or Weapon Immunity &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the monster has Physical, Magical, or Weapon Immunity&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for skills that negate Physical, Magical, or Weapon Resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for allies that negate Physical, Magical, or Weapon Resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check if the monster has Physical, Magical, or Weapon Resistance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for items that passively affect combat without being equipped (e.g. Cross against Undead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask the player for non-combat spells that affect stats (e.g. Voice of Ra)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask the player for equipped common items, unique items, or spells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each equipped investigator card, apply relevant immunity unless negated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each equipped investigator card, apply relevant resistance unless negated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subtract monster's combat rating&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subtract bonus combat rating from Ancient One&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll the skill check value&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Mandy is an investigator and her ability hasn't been exhaused then ask whether the player would like to invoke &quot;the Mandy ability&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the number of successes via state of Blessedness/Cursedness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double successes scored with 6 in case Shotgun was used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no successes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for skills that allow re-rolls (e.g. Marksman)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for allies that allow re-rolls&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for items that allow re-rolls (e.g. Bullwhip)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Mandy is an investigator and her ability hasn't been exhaused then ask whether the player would like to invoke &quot;the Mandy ability&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the number of successes via state of Blessedness/Cursedness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double successes scored with 6 in case Shotgun was used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask for clue tokens if the player wants additional dice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add an extra die for every Fight skill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add an extra die for every clue token if Joe is the investigator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no successes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for skills that allow re-rolls (e.g. if the original value was 7, and 3 clue tokens were spent, Marksman would roll 10 instead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for allies that allow re-rolls&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for items that allow re-rolls (e.g. Bullwhip) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll the skill check value&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Mandy is an investigator and her ability hasn't been exhaused then ask whether the player would like to invoke &quot;the Mandy ability&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the number of successes via state of Blessedness/Cursedness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double successes scored with 6 in case Shotgun was used&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't even know whether the above flowchart covers all the cases.  And this is only for the Combat Skill Check alone.  In the Arkham Horror Wiki (http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Skill_check), Step number one for making a Skill Check involves getting the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;value&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of a skill check involving all relevant factors, but there's no mention of the order by which these relevant factors should be processed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there flowcharts for other kinds of Skill Checks besides Combat (i.e. Speed, Sneak, Fight, Will, Lore, Luck, Evade, Horror, Spell)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T14:46:19.327" Title="How are skill check modifiers prioritized and ordered in Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7564" CreationDate="2012-06-10T14:46:19.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;With all due respect to the amount of time you put in making that list, I think you may be asking the wrong question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, there's generally no fixed order or prioritization which requires a flowchart. You add up all the things that affect the modifier, and addition is commutative. If you have things that let you reroll, they can be used in any order you want. That is, the &quot;flowchart&quot; would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add up all modifiers&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roll that many dice and see if you passed&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you failed, consider your options for re-rolling, re-roll if desired/possible, see if you passed, and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bulk of your question, then, is just how to make sure you got the modifier right, and perhaps how to make sure you didn't forget a way you can re-roll. And I would argue that your list is not going to help you there, because your list is longer than the number of cards typically in play. It will be faster (and just as reliable) to simply look through everything in play every time a skill check is made than to consult a list like the one you're proposing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, there are relatively few global cards in play - perhaps an environment, perhaps the ancient one affects skill checks, and other things are very uncommon. Everything else is either on your investigator sheet or the little cards (items + skills + allies) right in front of you, and you can very quickly scan through those, until you start remembering that your shotgun always doubles sixes, and that your dark cloak doesn't affect luck checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, you could try to use counters/dice/sliders to remember all the global modifiers (e.g. when the Heat Wave environment appears, set global indicators for fight to -1 and lore to +1), but that gives you yet another thing to remember to do (adjust those indicators when environments change) so honestly, you might as well just look at the environment card every time if you're having trouble remembering. Same goes for everything else - you could perhaps keep track of your current net stats, but it's easier said than done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in general, just try to get all the players to keep an eye on everything, and probably someone will notice if you slip up. Keep your cards in consistent places: environments always in the same place, organize your items into combat and non-combat items. And don't worry so much - if you realize after the fact, you can probably either fix it or just let it slide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-06-10T14:46:19.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7995" CreationDate="2012-06-10T21:08:43.233" Score="6" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Twilight Imperium, the Federation of Sol have been given this as their secondary race tech:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spec Ops Training (5)  Each time you roll a 1 during Invasion Combat,&#xA;  you  may reroll the die. You must use the second result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that this is not the same as e.g. +1 to all Ground Forces combat rolls. With a smashing price of 5 additional resources, I am looking for the reason why this race tech is even in the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some questions to add to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not worded for combat rolls specifically. Does this apply to Gen Synthesis and Dacxive Animators rolls too (since Federation of Sol seem to be taking good care of their ground forces)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this apply to Mechanized Units?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will this apply to Fighters as well, when Sol gains the Graviton Negator tech?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's only half a +1 to Ground Forces, why would anyone buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:15:50.477" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:15:50.477" Title="TI3 - Why go for Spec Ops Training?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7568" CreationDate="2012-06-11T05:21:01.063" Score="3" ViewCount="975" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building an Android game based on Contract Bridge, where 4 players will be playing simultaneously once they are connected with the Game Server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no prior experience of playing any card game, and have been learning Bridge while working on this project. I understand most of the concepts of the game, things like &lt;strong&gt;Deal, Trick, strength of a hand, major suit, minor suit, the actual game play, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm still a bit confused by &lt;strong&gt;Bidding&lt;/strong&gt;, the key part of the game. Since I'm a developer, and will not be working on creating an artificial CPU player, I'm more interested in getting the &lt;strong&gt;Rules of Bidding&lt;/strong&gt; right, rather than strategies for making a great Bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my rule questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long does the bidding process continue? I know that when a certain bid is made by a player, and the remaining three call &quot;Pass&quot; subsequently, the last bid is agreed as a final contract. But what if players continue to bid, &quot;double&quot; or &quot;redouble&quot; the last bid forever? Do the cards need to be re-dealt in that case?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a player calls &quot;double&quot; for a last bid, what exactly happens on the score card? I've read that you double your stakes for the game, i.e. if the player who bid makes that contract, he wins double points, and if he fails, you win double points, but I need a more figurative explanation with examples. Same with &quot;redouble&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How is the declarer (or the attacking team) decided? Does the player whose bid is chosen as a final contract (with the suit he chose becoming the trump suite) become declarer? Or does the player who was first to mention the suit, which becomes the trump suit of the game, become the declarer?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would be the purpose of a dummy player in the game if his cards are played by the declarer? In the Android game that I'll make, he'll be just sitting idle in-front of the phone and watch the show doing nothing (except the time when he exposes his cards and is done).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I've asked many questions here, but they all relate to rules of bidding. Any help with getting these rules clear in my mind would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Update&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following are the sources I have referred so far to understand the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeworld.com/default.asp?d=intro_to_bridge&amp;amp;f=bbeg5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bridgeworld.com/default.asp?d=intro_to_bridge&amp;amp;f=bbeg5.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn/howToPlay.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.acbl.org/learn/howToPlay.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/how-to-play-bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://entertainment.howstuffworks.com/how-to-play-bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Videos of channel &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/user/iBridgePlayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iBridgePlayer&lt;/a&gt; on YouTube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P.S.:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm a software developer and not an enthusiast, so please keep your answer jargon-free where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2945" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T16:37:05.790" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:37:05.790" Title="Confused with Bidding in Contract Bridge" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7567" CreationDate="2012-06-11T09:28:58.103" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bidding process continues until all players have passed in succession, or three players have passed in succession after a bid.  You seem to misunderstand the double and redouble bids - they can't go on indefinitely.  After a double from the opposing team, your only options are to go to a higher level or redouble.  After a redouble from the opposing team, your only option is to go to a higher level.  (Or pass out of course, in either case.)  If bidding reaches 7 no trumps redoubled, there is nowhere left to go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It would be easy to assume that &quot;double&quot; and &quot;redouble&quot; imply x2 or x4 value for the contract - much too easy!  In fact doubling and redoubling also do some rather complex things to scoring overtricks or undertricks in the final score, dependent on the &quot;vulnerability&quot; of the contract, that has little to do with a simple multiplier.  And that's before we get into the additional &quot;insult bonus&quot; for successfully making a doubled or redoubled contract... &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_scoring#Double_and_redouble_bonus&quot;&gt;Here's a link to the Wikipedia sections on the subject&lt;/a&gt;, probably better and conciser than me trying to outline all of it from memory.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Declarer is, as you say, the first player to mention the trump suit (or bid no trumps) in the partnership that ultimately wins the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately dummy has little to do except twiddle his thumbs until the contract is played out.  Fortunately Bridge is a complex and tense game that is usually as much fun to watch as play, and generally I don't find it a big problem to sit there watching partner play the hand, even online.  You definitely want to be able to berate your partner after she's finished making a hash of the hand, with useful advise about how you would have done it!  Er, I mean &quot;commiserate with&quot;, not &quot;berate&quot;, obviously...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T09:34:22.107" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T09:34:22.107" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7575" CreationDate="2012-06-11T12:55:27.863" Score="6" ViewCount="6314" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, over a 1 NT opening, a responder might bid 2D/H with five hearts/spades asking the opener to &quot;transfer&quot; to 2H/S. The idea is to try to find an eight card fit, assuming that the NT bidder has three in the major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose the 1NT bidder only has two of the designated suit. Does s/he have to accept the transfer, or can one bid 2NT in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the opener accepts the transfer, is the responder (i.e. 2D/H bidder) supposed to go to 2NT to give the opener a choice of a NT or suit contract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T22:21:45.717" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T22:21:45.717" Title="In bridge, what are the proper followups to a Jacoby transfer?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2012-06-11T13:26:07.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Standard American with strong 1NT openings (typically 15-17 or 16-18 points), the 1 NT bidder must accept the transfer, even with only 2 in the suit. Root and Pavlicek's book Modern Bidding Conventions (Standard American) is very clear about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not always lead to an optimal result, but like many other conventions, the first 2 bids of the Jacoby Transfer are just the start of a longer communication sequence and departing from the sequence this early in the bidding would waste much of the benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - despite the 5-2 fit, this is usually a good place for the contract to land when a weak responder is not even assured of taking a single trick (without ruffing). The contract with the 5-2 fit gives you a ruff or two from the dummy &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; an opportunity to attempt finesses that require a lead from dummy. In fact, I would go so far as to say that this is one of the major benefits of the Jacoby Transfer, as a 1 NT contract with zero support from dummy often leads to going down 2-3 tricks, whereas the 2H or 2S contract with 5 in dummy and 2 in declarer can often be made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T23:56:04.617" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T23:56:04.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:56:13.097" Score="2" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terraforming says you attach it to a planet, and if it would be enough to satisfy the printed colonization cost, settle the planet. How does this work? Does this count colonization reductions from settled planets or Fertile Ground? If not can it only settle starter planets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T10:24:17.527" Title="How does Terraforming work in Eminent Domain?" Tags="|eminent-domain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7572" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:57:52.627" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T16:57:52.627" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T16:57:52.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7573" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-06-11T16:57:52.627" Score="0" Body="A space exploration and colonization deck building game." OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2012-06-11T17:32:57.433" LastActivityDate="2012-06-11T17:32:57.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2012-06-11T22:46:27.130" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the proper followup is what you have agreed upon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'normal' responses to a transfer allow you to bid the major at the 2 level (usual completion of the transfer) or bid the major at the 3 level, which shows a maximum hand and 4 cards in the major in question (called super-accept).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your agreement is the above, bidding 2NT with doubleton in the major, instead of completing the transfer is just silly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You partner could have 6 cards in the major and a bust hand and might have been planning to pass the 2H bid from you. With a 6-2 fit, 2H will play very well as compared to 1NT. Even with a decent 5 card suit and nothing else, 2H will likely play better than 1NT. 2NT might just be too high. This is because the trumps serve as stoppers in other suits, and also provide entries into dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With partner having an invitational/game forcing hand and exactly 5 card major, you will always be able to reach 2NT or 3NT when you need to. With an invitational hand and exactly 5 cards in the major, partner will rebid 2NT, which you can then pass (or go on to 3NT if you have a maximum hand). With a game forcing hand and 5 hearts, partner will bid 3N. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are denying partner the chance to bid 2S after transferring to hearts which can show some hand types (some people play it as 5-5 in majors etc).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bidding 2NT is a unilateral bid. Remember that your partner is the captain. You have narrowed down your hand with your 1NT bid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So violating the transfer to bid 2NT to show doubleton is pointless with no real gain (you will always get to deny support later), and has only downsides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from a system point of view, having 2NT show a doubleton is inefficient, as later followups will clarify that situation. You are just wasting space and getting to a bad contract/wrong siding it for no reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some people do have followups other than 2 or 3 of the major, but those typically show 4 card support and some other feature (like doubleton/values in the suit bid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T13:41:33.097" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T13:41:33.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3090" CreationDate="2012-06-12T09:07:49.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have the pick the card from your hand without seeing what it is. I don't see why you cannot tell them the one on the left is a wood if you want to. They wouldn't necessarily trust you though, as you might be trying to trick them into taking something else knowing they wanted a wood. (You might have 3 corn and 3 ore and want them to take a corn, for example.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They might also tell you they wanted a wood, when in fact they wanted anything OTHER than wood in order to progress. You revealing which card is wood then allows them to take anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think its ever in your interests to give useful information about the cards in your hand to the robber; you can always trade afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T09:07:49.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7571" CreationDate="2012-06-12T10:24:17.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Terraforming action states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add this card to a planet as 2 colonies. If that fulfills the printed Colonize cost, Settle that planet.&#xA;  Note: Ignore Colonize discounts in your Empire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, the following occurs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, you can play it onto an unsettled planet to count as two colonies (much like playing a Colonize counts as one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if once you've played it the planet has sufficient colonies to settle, you can settle it immediately (discarding the Terraforming and any other Colonizes and flipping the planet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. If you have an unsettled planet with a Colonize cost of 3 and one Colonize card already on it, you can play Terraforming to double-Colonize and then immediately settle that planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Terraforming, all discounts are ignored, mostly for game-balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. In the same example as above, if you had an unsettled planet with a Colonize cost of 3 and NO Colonize cards on it (but a discount to Colonize from, say, another planet) then you could double-Colonize, but you would NOT be able to immediately settle, since you do not reach the requirements while ignoring discounts. You COULD however settle it later without further Colonizes required, since the action remains on the planet and still counts as two colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T10:24:17.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-06-12T10:34:29.433" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ravensburger game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36648/pyramid&quot;&gt;Pyramid&lt;/a&gt; has a fairly creative solution to this problem: The board is stood vertically, with all the pieces attached by magnets to respective sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All but one of the players sit on one side and move their pieces to collect treasure inside a pyramid. The other player is a mummy and is trying to capture them, but he only knows where they are when they reveal treasure. In practice, the mummy sits on the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there is a mummy magnet on the adventurers' side as well, so that when the mummy moves, the other players can see where he moves to, making the mummy's location known to all, but the adventurers' locations secret to the mummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a particularly deep game, but one I really like just for this creative approach to secret piece movement!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T10:34:29.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7443" CreationDate="2012-06-12T22:34:45.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of any official article, here are my current house rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Include phenomenon cards in the planar deck, as normal. As a rule of&#xA;thumb, the deck should include at least 25 actual planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players &amp;quot;encounter&amp;quot; phenomenon cards when they are revealed from the planar deck&lt;/strong&gt; -- put their triggers on top of the stack immediately.&#xA;In most cases, this means that the phenomenon will be &lt;em&gt;adjacent&lt;/em&gt; to&#xA;the current plane. After resolving a phenomenon, place it on the&#xA;bottom of the planar deck and continue revealing plane cards until all&#xA;spaces are filled as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spatial%20Merging&quot;&gt;Spatial Merging&lt;/a&gt; gets errata to read &amp;quot;Place both of them in the&#xA;same slot on the planar map&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;Simultaneous planeswalk to&#xA;both of them.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My main guiding principle for these house rules was that phenomena are random, one-time events, so it was aesthetically unappealing to have them sitting in a spot, waiting to be triggered. Because they activate when revealed from the deck, moving to a known square can still have additional unforeseen consequences (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Morphic%20Tide&quot;&gt;Morphic Tide&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chaotic%20AEther&quot;&gt;Chaotic AEther&lt;/a&gt;). I like that phenomena only occur when exploring the edges of the map: they are surprises that afflict planeswalkers venturing out into unknown reaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overriding the unique &amp;quot;encounter&amp;quot; keyword allows all current phenomenon cards work as written, with the exception of Spatial Merging (and their reminder text). I consider this an elegant solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phenomena are placed at the bottom of the deck (rather than shuffled) because I found that more natural and expedient. They can still recur unexpectedly because the deck will be shuffled whenever out-of-reach planes are removed from the map. You could also shuffle them in immediately if you wanted to; which approach you prefer doesn't really matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, with too few actual plane cards in the deck, the game could get into a degenerate loop when you continuously reveal phenomenon cards -- hence the warning about minimum deck size. Right now, we play with a deck of around 35-40 cards total, 5 of which are phenomena, and this has worked well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some niggles here with trigger ordering that I haven't investigated fully, but so far my informal play procedures have been sufficient for a few quick playtest games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-12T22:34:45.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2012-06-13T01:01:17.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have an Eastern front attack on Manchuria synchronized with the Allies to wipe out all of Japan/Asia on the third to fourth turn. Turn one, buy two anti-aircraft guns, three guys and a tank. Attack Belorussia with three guys and two fighters, Attack West Russia with four guys, a gun, two tanks. When successful,  move anti-aircraft guns to West Russia and Novosibirsk, move two remaining infantry from Russia to Caucasus, move a tank to Kazakh, one tank and one gun to Novosibirsk, two guys from Kazakh and two guys from Novosibirsk to Sinkiang, one guy to Soviet Far East and three guys to Yakut. Land your fighters in Caucasus. Phew.... place two guys and a tank and an a.a. gun in Caucasus and a guy and your last a.a. in Moscow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Allies should build a factory in India, land the US bomber in Yakut s.s.r. US fighters and transport to prepare for an attack on Northern Europe. Secure the easy North Atlantic by the end of the first turn (or at least the second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second turn--you now have troops in place to secure Asia by the third or fourth turn. Buy whatever you want from now on and focus on the typical German slug fest. You are defended at home, have comitted a big enough force to make the diference in Asia and it's only the second turn. So... attack China with two tanks and four guys, and two planes if need be. Move the a.a. gun and the force in Novosibirsk into Sinkiang, the force in East Russia to Buryatia and get ready to take Manchuria. You can either hit it the next turn  or wait for the remaining force to arrive with the other a.a. gun. By now the US should be able to build two factories and have a force to hit Kwnagtung and UK should be able hit French Indochina. You can hit only one Japan land territory and mass, you can hit the zone with the factory, or you can take a weak sister and build a factory there.  Use your Asia allies to help destroy those lonely transports, have one ally clear the way for the next to hit a weak factory (if there is one). Don't forget, from Yakut the US bomber can hit either Norway or anywhere in Asia on the second turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMPORTANT - for ally assisted operation, you must go US - Russia - UK   These all go before Japan gets another turn, you can use this formula to clean paths in mainland Asia, or even better, to hit and take out all three Japan land zones at once. But at the end of the first turn you've left Russia with a good army in West Russia, a strong force in Caucasus to defend and you've lost nothing in Asia. You've enabled at least one US factory, and with the added strength of two tanks and your fighters, on offense you should be able to take or assist in taking at least one if not all of the Japan land zones. You can also---on the third turn, before Germany even gets to go---have a factory in Karelia with British defense and US-occupied Norway. UK goes after Germany and can take Karelia, then the Russians move their force in and build a factory in liberated Karelia. These are a few neat moves for Russia to help in the battle for Asia. Any other ideas or great battle strategies I can use to whoop my friends (who are getting better each time)? Email me&#xA;john_ready@hotmail.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2951" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T07:26:22.117" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T07:26:22.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-13T03:27:27.817" Score="5" ViewCount="2019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that when I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Exile target creature you control, then return that card to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Borderland%20Ranger&quot;&gt;Borderland Ranger&lt;/a&gt; which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When Borderland Ranger enters the battlefield, you may search your library for a basic land card, reveal it, and put it into your hand. If you do, shuffle your library.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then Borderland Ranger's triggered ability triggers. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2952" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:12:37.477" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T19:22:54.670" Title="What happens when you play Cloudshift on Borderland Ranger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7583" CreationDate="2012-06-13T04:31:26.473" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's correct. Re-triggering &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; effects is certainly a good use of &quot;flicker&quot; cards like Cloudshift. Perhaps you'd be interested in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/32379/whats-the-use-of-blinking-a-creature-out-such-as-with-essence-flux/&quot;&gt;discussion of various uses of Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; for more examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T19:22:54.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7031" CreationDate="2012-06-13T09:26:00.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently there are not yet any errata to clarify this issue, but a couple of house rule options leap to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your house rule seems like a good one. Since it must follow a Sol Offensive, &lt;strong&gt;re-moving the Sol units&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. changing the move that had just been made) seems to result in the fewest extra changes to the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could &lt;strong&gt;disallow alliances&lt;/strong&gt; between players that occupy the same space. This might be a little harsh, but it's by far the easiest to enforce, and since the Sol player was attacking anyway, they won't be too often worried about being refused this option!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The suggestion I'd be tempted to make if it came up in a game I was playing (which it hasn't) is that &lt;strong&gt;the alliance is allowed, on the requirement that the pieces don't still occupy the same space during the battle phase&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. one of the players must move during their movement). You could require that agreeing this is a requirement of forming an alliance. If neither player moves, then the alliance is void because offensive troops were not removed from an ally's area (which works thematically too). Since players only get one move, forming this alliance would cost one of them a fair part of their turn, which might be too high a cost to form the alliance, but as long as the parties are aware of this I don't think this is a problem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T13:27:11.370" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T13:27:11.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7588" CreationDate="2012-06-13T13:55:19.367" Score="7" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trying to expand my knowledge of Magic, and hopefully become a better player, I've come across several references to &quot;layers.&quot; From what I've been able to find, they are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Text&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add/Remove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone elucidate the significance of the order and exactly what this layering thing means?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T17:16:12.890" LastActivityDate="2020-01-18T06:53:46.873" Title="How do Layers work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7586" CreationDate="2012-06-13T14:30:53.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic answer is that the layer system determines how to apply continuous effects to every object in the game so that they get their actual state beyond what's printed on the actual card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more detailed answer would mostly consist of quoting the Comprehensive Rules Book verbatim, so I suggest if you want to dive in there, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;go straight to the source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T19:57:49.450" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T19:57:49.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7586" CreationDate="2012-06-13T14:39:33.790" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I completely agree with Hackworth that an in-depth answer would probably require an article, but I don't recommend the Comprehensive Rules (very dry)... so try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20091105a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's got loads of good examples that really demonstrate when this stuff becomes useful.  e.g. You have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;ed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; (2/2 +3/+3 = 5/5) and someone casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ovinize&quot;&gt;Ovinize&lt;/a&gt; on it (loses all abilities and becomes a 0/1).  Without reference to the layers system, how do you explain to someone that the Bears are now 3/4 creatures, not 0/1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T14:51:14.470" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T14:51:14.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7592" CreationDate="2012-06-13T16:10:21.773" Score="44" ViewCount="180399" Body="&lt;p&gt;When choosing cards for a deck, one of the most important things to consider is the number of land you put in. The biggest issue is mana curve, of course. What shortcuts are best for determining the proper amount of land with a given mana curve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T23:05:32.677" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T03:40:53.217" Title="Land ratio vs mana curve" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7589" CreationDate="2012-06-13T17:11:42.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It totally depends on the mana curve in your actual deck. A good starting point is 33-40% lands for most Constructed decks. For Limited, you typically want a little more, 40-45%. That being said, there will of course always be decks that require more or fewer lands, and without testing, a definite number is hard to pin down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T17:11:42.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7589" CreationDate="2012-06-13T17:52:40.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general rule of thumb is about 22 - 24 lands for most 60 card decks. Some decks can get away with less due to low curve (for example one drop zoo) and some may need more depending on the situation. Of course there are always extreme exemptions like char belcher which runs a grand total of one land or manaless dredge which runs none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastEditorUserId="2688" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T18:54:50.460" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T18:54:50.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7589" CreationDate="2012-06-13T18:06:11.607" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you're trying to find an optimal balance between &amp;quot;I need mana to play my spells in a timely fashion&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;I want to draw active cards all the time (which usually means spells).&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, it boils down to a question of &lt;strong&gt;which lands drops do you need to make &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;on time&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because players start with an opening hand of several cards but subsequently draw one card per turn (typically), your access to mana isn't linear. On turn 1, you've already seen about 7 cards (and you can mulligan bad hands); making your first land drop is pretty easy even with only a dozen lands in your deck. By turn 4, you've seen only three more cards, so making your fourth land drop (which implies that you also made your first, second, and third ones on time, by the way) reliably now demands that something like 40+% of your deck be land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets even worse for decks trying to stick a six-drop on turn 6: on the face of it, it seems like you'd want over 50% of a deck to be lands! &amp;quot;Real&amp;quot; decks don't do that, though. Instead, decks that top out with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%20%5Btitan%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Magic%202011%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some lethal six-drop&lt;/a&gt; either play ramp spells or other tricks to get there earlier, or they don't actually fret about resolving one on turn 6 (control decks with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAetherling%5d&quot;&gt;Aetherling&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConsecrated%20Sphinx%5d&quot;&gt;Consecrated Sphinx&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, are more concerned with getting the mana for timely board control spells, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSupreme%20Verdict%5d&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt;, than actually casting their finisher ASAP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important subtlety here is that &lt;strong&gt;which cards you need to cast &amp;quot;on time&amp;quot; actually varies depending on your matchup&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, you might have a combo deck that can reliably &amp;quot;go off&amp;quot; with just two lands, but needs additional mana in order to play counterspells, targeted discard, or redundant combo pieces to overcome disruption. Likewise, in a control mirror, making your land drops is very important, because you need to play a threat and then back it up with your other spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as general rules of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Based on the logic above and general consensus among MTG players, &lt;strong&gt;a &amp;quot;midrange&amp;quot; deck that relies on its three- and four- drops for heavy lifting should run about 24-25 lands (i.e. 40% lands).&lt;/strong&gt; 16-17 lands is the equivalent in (40-card) Limited, and is very common. Most of the intro decks WotC prints come with 24 lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low-curve aggressive decks can get away with 20-22 lands. Some can function well on as few as 18-20.&lt;/strong&gt; The idea here is that, unlike the &amp;quot;typical&amp;quot; deck above, you're only trying to hit your two-drops reliably, and being &amp;quot;mana-flooded&amp;quot; will usually cause a game loss as your deck runs out of steam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ramp decks tend to be over 50% mana sources or land-fetching cards, but only 24-26 lands, or even less in environments with super-strong mana acceleration.&lt;/strong&gt; You can usually cut a land for every two non-land mana sources like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBirds%20of%20Paradise%5d&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAzorius%20Signet%5d&quot;&gt;Azorius Signet&lt;/a&gt; that you play. (Why every two? Because you still need some land to cast your non-land mana sources, and because non-land mana sources are actually pretty pointless unless you're &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; making your land drops. Also, mana dorks are fragile!) Make sure your accelerators are low enough on your curve that they actually &lt;em&gt;accelerate&lt;/em&gt; you, also — for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPristine%20Talisman%5d&quot;&gt;Pristine Talisman&lt;/a&gt; can help set up &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElesh%20Norn%5d&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGideon%20Jura%5d&quot;&gt;Gideon Jura&lt;/a&gt;, but it's pointless to put one in a deck that's all about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHero%20of%20Bladehold%5d&quot;&gt;Hero of Bladehold&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244681&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Runechanter's Pike&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Control decks generally run 24-28 lands, with card-draw and card-filtering to help them hit land drops.&lt;/strong&gt; Low-cost card-draw or card-filtering cards, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPreordain%5d&quot;&gt;Preordain&lt;/a&gt;, are kinda like mana dorks for land-count purposes — you'll see more cards, so you can afford to put fewer lands in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look at mana requirements other than casting spells&lt;/strong&gt;, as well. For instance, a deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlvenwald%20Tracker%5d&quot;&gt;Ulvenwald Tracker&lt;/a&gt; benefits from being able to cast big dudes and have them fight your opponent's creatures on the same turn, so it might want more lands than a deck with an equivalent casting-cost curve but no mana-intensive activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decks for formats with super-efficient spells, like Legacy and Vintage, tend to run fewer lands than the numbers given above.&lt;/strong&gt; You could reasonably see a 16-land aggro deck or a 23-land control deck in Legacy, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When available, lands that do stuff other than just tap for mana are a great way to get more &amp;quot;action&amp;quot; in your deck without going land-light. Examples range from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarakas%5d&quot;&gt;Karakas&lt;/a&gt; in Legacy, to manlands (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt;) everywhere they're legal, to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTeetering%20Peaks%5d&quot;&gt;Teetering Peaks&lt;/a&gt; in budget red decks. I've won several games thanks to the relatively minor secondary ability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=79179&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minamo, School at Water's Edge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once your deck starts doing things with land cards other than tapping them for 1 mana each, the shorthand doesn't work. Two diametrically opposed examples here: Loam Assault is a deck that curves out at 3, but it plays around 28 lands because the goal is to hit the right mana to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSeismic%20Assault%5d&quot;&gt;Seismic Assault&lt;/a&gt;, and then pitch your remaining lands to it (recycling with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLife%20from%20the%20Loam%5d&quot;&gt;Life from the Loam&lt;/a&gt;); Green Tron decks play cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Aeons%20Torn%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; but only run about 18-20 lands because they can make 7 mana off of three lands and are absolutely overloaded on land search and cantrips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Though the option is rarely exercised, don't forget that you can side lands in and out. Usually this is done when there are important utility lands that a deck might want to play. If you have the lands in your sideboard already, you can use them to alter your land count in order to match which spells are most time-critical for a specific matchup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, during the Innistrad and Return to Ravnica Standard seasons, some control decks would keep an extra &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNephalia%20Drownyard%5d&quot;&gt;Nephalia Drownyard&lt;/a&gt; or two in their sideboard. Drownyard was widely regarded as &amp;quot;the most powerful card in the control mirror, but playing too many lands put you at risk of mana flood against faster decks; having a lot of lands wasn't nearly as bad against other control decks because you got a huge advantage out of being able to play around &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMana%20Leak%5d&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;, win a counter war, pay for a massive draw spell, or activate more Drownyards than your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your deck is truly weird, you'll need to throw all conventions out the window and figure it out from scratch. For examples of these, look up Dredge (note the variety of land counts within one archetype, based on cardpool differences!), Belcher, and Legacy Lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the suggestions above apply to non-60-card decks as well. Thus, a typical Limited deck will have 17-18 lands and a typical EDH deck will have 38-40, for instance. Additionally,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Limited, if you don't have enough playables, it's okay to just go heavy on basic lands — at least you'll avoid mana screw. I usually end up playing 17-18 lands even in low-curve aggressive decks because I'll only have about 22-23 cards I'll actively want to run (sorry, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiregraf%20Escort%5d&quot;&gt;Diregraf Escort&lt;/a&gt;!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In EDH, decks of all colors have ample access to &amp;quot;mana rocks&amp;quot; (e.g., most notably, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSol%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;), and even aggressive decks tend to play cards that cost 6 mana or more. In some ways, nearly every deck is a little bit of a ramp deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-11-12T22:32:13.387" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7596" CreationDate="2012-06-13T19:00:32.490" Score="12" ViewCount="11247" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks with a 3/3. I block with my 1/1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;, and have all of my land tapped from my last turn. Can I now tap my Llanowar Elves after it has been declared as a blocker to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205224&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on it, make it 4/4 until end of turn, and destroy my opponent's attacking creature when damage is dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:11:53.440" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:11:53.440" Title="Can I block with my Llanowar elves and then tap it for mana immediately afterward?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7595" CreationDate="2012-06-13T19:05:17.817" Score="3" ViewCount="1341" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks with two 4/4 creatures. I block each of them with one 2/2 creature, but have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nim Deathmantle&lt;/a&gt; on the field, currently not equipped to anything. When my two 2/2 creatures are put into the graveyard after the damage step, can I pay 4 mana to save one of them, equipping the Nim Deathmantle to it, and then pay another 4 to save the other, unequip from the first 2/2 creature, and now have it equipped to the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:10:55.343" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:10:55.343" Title="Can I activate Nim Deathmantle's creature saving ability more than once in a turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7594" CreationDate="2012-06-13T19:24:18.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a triggered ability, so it'll trigger every time a creature dies. If multiple creatures die simultaneously, you choose how to stack the triggers, then get to resolve them one by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209289&quot;&gt;the card's Oracle rulings&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/1/2011  If multiple nontoken creatures are put into your graveyard&#xA;  from the battlefield at the same time, Nim Deathmantle's second&#xA;  ability triggers that many times. You put the triggered abilities on&#xA;  the stack in any order, so you'll determine in which order they&#xA;  resolve. If you pay {4} more than once, each card you paid {4} for&#xA;  will end up on the battlefield under your control, and Nim Deathmantle&#xA;  will end up attached to the last card that returned to the battlefield&#xA;  this way that it could equip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T19:24:18.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7593" CreationDate="2012-06-13T19:28:06.487" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this works just fine. Once a creature is declared as a blocker, it remains a blocker until it is specifically removed from combat (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Regeneration&quot;&gt;Regeneration&lt;/a&gt;) or the battlefield (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note: once a creature is blocked, it remains blocked even if the blocker is removed before damage is dealt. This works great against lifelinkers, since they deal no damage to a creature that is no longer there. It works less well on tramplers, since they just deal all their damage to the player instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-06-13T20:10:33.780" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T20:10:33.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7615" CreationDate="2012-06-13T19:51:05.313" Score="5" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, there seems to be two schools of thought when it comes to creating your standard team:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go big or go home. Get all the biggest, most powerful guys you can to fit into your allotted points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swarm them with small, efficient guys averaging about 50 points each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the pros and cons of these methods? Is there anything to keep in mind for either scenario? Is one method significantly better than the other (in theory or practice)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T00:35:04.520" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T00:36:26.383" Title="Big or small team members in Heroclix?" Tags="|heroclix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7599" CreationDate="2012-06-13T20:12:40.737" Score="6" ViewCount="811" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attack with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primeval%20Titan&quot;&gt;Primeval Titan&lt;/a&gt; (6/6 Trample) that has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necrobite&quot;&gt;Necrobite&lt;/a&gt; (Deathtouch), what happens if my opponent blocks with another &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primeval%20Titan&quot;&gt;Primeval Titan&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:10:16.420" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:10:16.420" Title="Trample + Deathtouch" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7598" CreationDate="2012-06-13T20:55:32.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're assigning the damage that will be dealt by your Primeval Titan, you have to deal lethal damage to each blocking creature before you can deal any damage to the defending player. Normally, &quot;lethal damage&quot; means the defending creature's toughness minus whatever other damage it's already taken that turn. But if the creature dealing the damage (here, your Titan) has deathtouch, &quot;lethal damage&quot; is 1. Period. So your Titan has to deal 1 damage to your opponent's Titan. The rest (5) can then be assigned to the defending player. (It doesn't have to, though - you can still assign any amount of damage to your opponent's Titan if you want to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T20:55:32.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7601" CreationDate="2012-06-13T21:01:56.213" Score="1" ViewCount="6476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a creature with the Soulbound ability, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stonewright&quot;&gt;Stonewright&lt;/a&gt;, which is currently bound to my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;. If I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;, can I switch my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stonewright&quot;&gt;Stonewright&lt;/a&gt; to be bound to the Birds instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:08:09.777" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:20:14.967" Title="Resetting Soulbound" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7600" CreationDate="2012-06-13T21:31:28.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NO.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Says right in the reminder text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You may pair this creature with another unpaired creature when either enters the battlefield. They remain paired for as long as you control both of them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may only pair when either enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They remain paired for as long as you control both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; unpaired creature implies the creature with soulbound must also be unpaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; the soulbound by causing the card to cease to exist for an instant and re-enter the battlefield with, say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=cloudshift&quot;&gt;cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another opportunity for pairing with another creature is of course if you lose control of the elves, if only temporarily; or if it leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These restrictions are made more explicit in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; where there is a lot more room to write out the two triggered abilities in full:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.94a. Soulbond is a keyword that represents two triggered abilities. &amp;quot;Soulbond&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;When this creature enters the battlefield, if you control both this creature and another creature and both are unpaired, you may pair this creature with another unpaired creature you control for as long as both remain creatures on the battlefield under your control&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control, if you control both that creature and this one and both are unpaired, you may pair that creature with this creature for as long as both remain creatures on the battlefield under your control.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:19:21.220" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:19:21.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7600" CreationDate="2012-06-13T21:50:16.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was going to answer yes because the reminder text is a little bit misleading, as it doesn't actually say that both creatures have to be unpaired, only the one that just entered the battlefield. At a prerelease I've been playing, the local judge also said that you can break an existing pair when a new creature enters the battlefield, but the Comprehensive Rules say it clearly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.94a. Soulbond is a keyword that represents two triggered abilities. “Soulbond” means “When this creature enters the battlefield, if you control both this creature and another creature &lt;strong&gt;and both are unpaired&lt;/strong&gt;, you may pair this creature with another unpaired creature you control for as long as both remain creatures on the battlefield under your control” and “Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control, if you control both that creature and this one &lt;strong&gt;and both are unpaired&lt;/strong&gt;, you may pair that creature with this creature for as long as both remain creatures on the battlefield under your control.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: They even managed to bork up that sentence (&quot;and this one and both are unpaired&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:20:14.967" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:20:14.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7156" CreationDate="2012-06-13T23:47:32.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no very good answer to this question. To directly answer your question: it's just one of those things that's lost in the history of Mahjong. A similar question would be, why is a tsumo-pinfu hand only worth 20 fu? Tsumo is worth 2fu by itself, but for whatever reason, Mahjong evolved so that tsumo-pinfu is only worth 20 (in fact, this combination is the ONLY way to get a 20 fu hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible reason could be that as Mahjong developed, people liked the idea that the smallest possible hand is worth 1,000 points (30fu, 1han). One can also speculate that it is similar to tsumo, in that open tsumo is worth 2 fu as sort of a consolation for not getting a yaku (though, menzen-tsumo gives both the yaku and the fu, except in the case of tsumo-pinfu).  But other than speculation, there is no given reason for why tsumo-pinfu should be worth 20, but pinfu with some other yaku by ron is worth 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2012-06-13T23:47:32.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7605" CreationDate="2012-06-14T12:11:23.487" Score="9" ViewCount="3817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently committed to memory the likelihood of &quot;Entering from the Bar&quot; in a game of backgammon. i.e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 point defence - 97%&#xA;2 point defence - 89%&#xA;3 point defence - 75%&#xA;4 point defence - 56%&#xA;5 point defence - 31%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the usual likelihood of &quot;throwing a number x&quot;, what other statistics are there that I can learn to improve my backgammon game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1353" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T09:18:45.180" Title="Backgammon Statistics To Know" Tags="|statistics|backgammon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7604" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:05:41.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These were all more or less directly copied from the source attributed at the bottom of the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Directly rolling a particular number (e.g. 2)    30.55%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling a particular double (e.g. 3-3)   2.77%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling a particular non-double (e.g. 5-1)   5.54%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling any double   16.66%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chance of getting off the bar with one or two pieces and X open points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Open&#xA;Points  1 piece 2 pieces&#xA;1       31%     3%&#xA;2       55%     11%&#xA;3       75%     25%&#xA;4       89%     44%&#xA;5       97%     69%&#xA;6       100%    100%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chance of moving X points in a single roll: (direct and indirect combined; direct alone is always 31% for 1-6 only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Move    Direct and&#xA;        Indirect Chance&#xA;1       31%                      &#xA;2       33%                     &#xA;3       39%                       &#xA;4       42%                       &#xA;5       42%                           &#xA;6       47%         &#xA;7       17%&#xA;8       17%&#xA;9       14%&#xA;10      8%&#xA;11      6%&#xA;12      8%&#xA;13       -&#xA;14       -&#xA;15      3%&#xA;16      3%&#xA;17      -&#xA;18      3%&#xA;19       -&#xA;20      3%&#xA;21       -&#xA;22       -&#xA;23       -&#xA;24      3%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SOURCE (and more stats): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paulspages.co.uk/bgvaults/tips/dicerolls.php&quot;&gt;http://www.paulspages.co.uk/bgvaults/tips/dicerolls.php&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;More info on observed Backgammon statistics: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/motif/stats.html&quot;&gt;http://www.bkgm.com/motif/stats.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T15:05:41.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7606" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:25:04.153" Score="-1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I previously asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7399/what-is-a-gateway-game&quot;&gt;What are Gateway Games&lt;/a&gt; and got a fairly good answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A gateway game is a game that you can use to introduce non-gamers to&#xA;  the world of 'real', i.e. complex games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A gateway game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;has good replay value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;has nice game components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;is good for mixed age groups&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would further clarify the definition and my understanding of the concept to see a list of Gateway games (one per answer), and for each the reason that it meets the definition. I think all would agree that Settlers of Catan, Carcossone, and Ticket to Ride make the list. But what about Monopoly, Poker, Uno, Rat-a-tat-cat, Cosmic Encounter, Labyrinth, Race for the Galaxy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there will be informational value not only in the games that make the list (those with answers that receive many upvotes), but also those which don't make the list (answers that have zero upvotes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please list one game per answer, and provide a little reasoning for why it should make the list. Please do not cast negative votes for an answer that is already at zero - I would like it to be okay for someone to post a controversial name like Monopoly so that valuable comments can clarify why this game should not be included on the list (without penalizing the person for suggesting this game be included).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: A comment below and further research suggests that perhaps the above definition of Gateway Games above is incomplete. Two other criteria for possible inclusion in the definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules are easy and quick to learn and apply (even if the strategy is&#xA;difficult)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game takes less than 2 hours to play (note that this would eliminate Monopoly which usually takes more than 2 hours)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to see a few more examples and comments before officially changing the definition above. The way I see this working is that the definition will change to accommodate what the group wisdom has expressed by the games that are included/excluded from what is commonly thought of us gateway games. The comments on Monopoly may be particularly interesting for this purpose given how much it has in common with Settlers [I intend to delete this entire update section at a later date, when the definition of Gateway Games becomes clearer and I incorporate it above].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T16:10:53.487" Title="Which games qualify as Gateway Games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2012-06-14T18:19:38.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7606" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:31:32.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan.&lt;/strong&gt; It has replay value, nice game components, and is good for mixed aged groups. It has some properties which lead to rich player interaction and complexity, including trading/negotiation, using resources to build, random/probabilistic factors, hoarding early in order to win later (development cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T15:31:32.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7606" CreationDate="2012-06-14T15:36:37.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monopoly.&lt;/strong&gt; It has replay value, nice game components, and is good for mixed aged groups. It has some properties in common with Settlers of Catan: Trading/negotiation, using resources to build, random/probabilistic factors, an ever growing pie of resources, and hoarding in order to win later (properties and/or cash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly is not a trendy German game like other quintessential Gateway games, but I don't think trendy and German is necessary to be a Gateway game. As a child, this is the first game I played a lot that was more difficult than games intended for little kids. Not sure if this game acted as a &quot;Gateway&quot; for me, but I did become an avid gamer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T15:36:37.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7606" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:10:53.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ticket to Ride.&lt;/strong&gt; It has replay value, nice game components, and is good for mixed aged groups - and especially appealing for kids who often love trains. The rules are very easy to learn and apply yet there is also some complexity, from: random/probabilistic factors, using resources to build, long-range planning (of routes), blocking tactics, and hoarding in order to win later. The game typically takes less than 90 minutes to play, and is often cited as the quintessential Gateway Game (it won &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/635360/the-best-gateway-games-the-top-100-contest-res&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a poll for that at BGG&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T16:10:53.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7613" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:20:09.420" Score="4" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have two cards in my hand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lion%27s%20Eye%20Diamond&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lion's Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt; and Shock.  According to the rules, the steps to casting a spell are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announcing the spell (put the spell on the stack)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine Modes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose targets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce Divisions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine Total Cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Mana Abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay costs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell is now considered cast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, by reading this, does this mean that I can cast the artifact, then once it resolves cast the Shock by putting it on the Stack, going through the steps, then sacraficing the artifact for it's mana ability (and discarding my hand, which is 0) and paying for the shock with the mana the artifact produced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:07:31.150" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:07:31.150" Title="Does casting a card and paying for it work like this?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7629" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:24:16.963" Score="5" ViewCount="6927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering what a good strategy is to win the 'Baker's Dozen' solitaire variant?  So far, I have tried to keep the cards descending in the same suit, wherever possible, but when the Kings are at the top of the tableau pile, it makes it very difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastEditorUserId="19635" LastEditDate="2017-03-05T23:45:27.567" LastActivityDate="2017-03-05T23:45:27.567" Title="What is a good 'Baker's Dozen' solitaire strategy?" Tags="|solitaire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7614" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:42:04.950" Score="9" ViewCount="19263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking through the Black Legends with thoughts of building a mono-black EDH deck, when I came across &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phage%20the%20Untouchable&quot;&gt;Phage the Untouchable&lt;/a&gt;. Am I right in assuming that if she is cast from the command zone, you lose the game? (As the command zone is not considered your hand.) Is there any way to get her from the command zone into your hard or graveyard so you could cast her without losing the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only one I can come up with is having a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; in play, so you don't lose the game when you cast her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-11-17T09:55:43.463" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T13:46:17.990" Title="Phage the Untouchable as a Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7610" CreationDate="2012-06-14T16:59:01.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to the Oracle revision to this card, what your are describing will not work. The current errata states that you can only use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lion%27s%20Eye%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Lion&amp;#39;s Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt;'s ability as an instant. The only abilities you can activate while a spell is being placed on the stack (&amp;quot;Pay Costs&amp;quot;) are mana abilities such as tapping lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Lion's Eye Diamond was not changed to specifically state that its ability is played as an instant, what you are describing would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant Oracle text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice Lion's Eye Diamond, Discard your hand: Add three mana of any one color to your mana pool. Activate this ability only any time you could cast an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T17:06:05.790" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T17:06:05.790" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2012-06-14T17:02:37.137" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct in assuming that you would lose the game. Casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phage%20the%20Untouchable&quot;&gt;Phage the Untouchable&lt;/a&gt; from the command zone would be a sorcery-speed &amp;quot;Summon Game Loss&amp;quot; spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Affe points out, she could be countered when you play her, which would put her in your graveyard (or library, depending on the counter spell used). You'd still need to get her back to your hand to cast her, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; you can't lose the game and it will make Phage's ability do nothing, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; in response to the enter the battle field trigger will fizzle all triggers on the stack, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torpor%20Orb&quot;&gt;Torpor Orb&lt;/a&gt; stops her enter the battle field from ever going off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T13:46:17.990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T13:46:17.990" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7597" CreationDate="2012-06-14T17:06:31.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience, I would lean towards the &quot;Go big or go home&quot; school of thought on this. Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most of the expensive figures have a higher &lt;strong&gt;defense&lt;/strong&gt; value. Most of the less expensive figures have a lower &lt;strong&gt;attack&lt;/strong&gt; value. You may be able to direct 2 or 3 figures towards attacking your opponents costly Superman or Hulk, but they will have a harder time hitting it. It also works the other way: the higher cost figures will be able to hit your figures more often. Which leads me to...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Damage. The same idea applies for damage output, hit points, and defensive abilities. Your lower cost figures may have great stats on the first click, but as soon as they take any damage, their stats will degrade very quickly. The stronger figures will do more damage, making your figures less effective than you have bargained for. (This is especially true if your figures get hit before they have a change to attack.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The higher cost figures tend to have higher damage output as well. If an expensive figure is doing 3 or 4 damage with a single hit, most 50 point characters will not last long.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lower damage output also makes a costly figure's defensive bonuses better. If they are Tough or Invulnerable and you're only doing a couple of points of damage which each figure, you're not going to make much of a dent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swarming seems like a good strategy, but most of the time a higher cost figure will have enhanced defense or defensive abilities that keep you from doing a lot of damage to it and removing it from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T19:47:17.970" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T19:47:17.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6268" CreationDate="2012-06-14T17:29:17.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After playing the &quot;Wrath of Ashardalon&quot; game (same system, different scenario), the biggest strategy that came to my mind is sticking together/splitting the party. If you split the party, you can explore more rooms (hopefully getting to the boss quicker), but you have more monsters (and encounters and monsters with ecounters) to deal with. If you stay together, encounters that affect a whole room can cause a lot more headache.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having only played a couple times, I'm certainly no expert on it, but I'd say choosing how to split the party is a main tactic of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T17:29:17.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-06-14T18:47:42.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One idea for keeping secret units, well, &lt;strong&gt;secret&lt;/strong&gt; on a shared board would be for the player controlling said units to maintain a notepad with current (and past) unit locations. Keeping track would be trivial on a grid-based board where you could note &quot;Spy is moving from A-2 to B-4&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be even simpler if combined with some variety of rules-enforcing system like a small computer application, a game master, or even a numbered turn counter to add to the notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T18:47:42.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7620" CreationDate="2012-06-14T18:52:16.063" Score="4" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at 2 life, and my opponent is at 3 life. It is my opponent's turn. He attacks me with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kindercatch&quot;&gt;Kindercatch&lt;/a&gt;. After blockers are declared (none) but before the combat damage step, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Deflection&quot;&gt;Divine Deflection&lt;/a&gt;, targeting my opponent with X declared as 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:06:06.533" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:06:06.533" Title="Killing with Divine Deflection" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2012-06-14T19:37:00.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you choose your opponent as the target of divine reflection, the game it's a draw. You'll be at 0 life and your opponent at -1 life the next time state based actions are checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule that shows that damage from divine reflection is done (almost) at the same time that combat damage, and both are done before state based actions are checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;615.5. Some prevention effects also include an additional effect, which may refer to the amount of damage that was prevented. The&#xA;  prevention takes place at the time the original event would have&#xA;  happened; the rest of the effect takes place immediately afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule for the state based action of losing the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5a If a player has 0 or less life, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule saying that if two players lose the game at the same time, the game it's a draw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4a If all the players remaining in a game lose simultaneously, the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T19:44:43.593" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T19:44:43.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7618" CreationDate="2012-06-14T19:38:06.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240072&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;oracle rulings of Divine Reflection&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Divine Deflection prevents damage, excess damage (if any) dealt by&#xA;that source is dealt at the same time. Immediately afterward, as part&#xA;of that same prevention effect, Divine Deflection deals its damage.&#xA;This happens before state-based actions are checked, and before the&#xA;spell or ability that caused damage to be dealt resumes its&#xA;resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the damage is done at the same time and only after are state-based actions checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5. The state-based actions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5a If a player has 0 or less life, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As checking the life totals is a state-based action, both players will have 0 life at the same check, thus &lt;strong&gt;the game ends in a draw&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T19:38:06.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7622" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:05:02.917" Score="6" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geralf's Messenger&lt;/a&gt; in play with a single +1/+1 counter on it. He also has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diregraf%20Captain&quot;&gt;Diregraf Captain&lt;/a&gt; in play. Due to the combined effects, the Messenger is a 5/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cast a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; with X declared as 3, what happens to the Messenger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a first glance, the messenger would die while it still had a +1/+1 counter on it. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:07:03.807" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:07:03.807" Title="How does this interaction between Black Sun's Zenith and Geralf's Messenger resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:16:00.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly not, state based actions are performed in batches.  Before a player would receive priority the game checks for state based actions and sees a conflicting +1/+1 and -1/-1 counter, and a creature with zero or less toughness.  So it annihilates the counters and bins the captain.  Now the game does another check for state based actions and sees another creature with zero or less toughness, so it bins him, after the +1/+1 has been annihilated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T20:16:00.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7621" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:26:26.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In this particular instance, the Messenger comes back.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the general reasoning, take a look at this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6381/why-doesnt-undying-trigger-if-a-creature-with-1-1-counters-dies-from-1-1-co&quot;&gt;&quot;Why doesn't Undying trigger if a creature with +1/+1 counters dies from -1/-1 counters?&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing in this specific scenario is that &lt;strong&gt;the game checks state-based actions in multiple &quot;waves&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.3.&lt;/strong&gt; ... If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; otherwise all triggered abilities that&#xA;  are waiting to be put on the stack are put on the stack, then the&#xA;  check is repeated. Once no more state-based actions have been&#xA;  performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are&#xA;  waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when you BSZ for 3 with a Diregraf Captain and a 5/4 Geralf's Messenger in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When BSZ resolves, you put three -1/-1 counters on both creatures. Then, after it has resolved, you check state-based actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diregraf Captain is at -1/-1, so it would die. Geralf's Messenger is at 2/1 (3/2, +1/+1 from its +1/+1 counter, -3/-3 from the -1/-1 counters, +1/+1 from Diregraf Captain), so it stays on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Simultaneously&lt;/em&gt;, +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters cancel, leaving the Geralf's Messenger with zero +1/+1 counters and two -1/-1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now you put Diregraf Captain in the graveyard. Then, before anyone gets priority or any triggers are checked (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlood%20Artist%5d&quot;&gt;Blood Artist&lt;/a&gt;'s), check SBAs &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now Geralf's Messenger is a 1/0 (3/2, -2/-2 from counters), so it dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When the Messenger dies, its unambiguously last state on the battlefield was having no +1/+1 counters.&lt;/strong&gt; So, its undying ability triggers. You'll check SBAs again to make sure there are no new ones, then put the trigger on the stack, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; the active players gets priority  (with the undying ability still on the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T20:44:48.283" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2012-06-14T20:42:22.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hyppy's exactly right: the command zone isn't your hand, so casting Phage the Untouchable will cause you to lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, &lt;strong&gt;there are very few ways to get around Phage's drawback in a mono-black deck&lt;/strong&gt;. The options available to you include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torpor%20Orb&quot;&gt;Torpor Orb&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;, and some truly awkward counter-your-own-Phage-and-then-&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disentomb&quot;&gt;Disentomb&lt;/a&gt;-her shenanigans. I don't think any of these are reliable enough to make Phage a worthwhile commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to play Phage in Commander is to &lt;strong&gt;use an alternative general and just dig her out&lt;/strong&gt;. Your options include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maralen&quot;&gt;Maralen&lt;/a&gt; gives you the built-in ability to search for Phage, though the big downside of running her is that your opponents will tend to immediately assume your deck is an &amp;quot;unfair&amp;quot; combo deck before the game even begins. (Ditto &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Griselbrand&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt;, but he's banned.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheoldred%2C%20Whispering%20One&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geth%2C%20Lord%20of%20the%20Vault&quot;&gt;Geth, Lord of the Vault&lt;/a&gt; are less threatening but still thoroughly powerful mono-black generals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The black legends from Odyssey and Onslaught blocks are the closest &amp;quot;flavor&amp;quot; fit. Going whole-hog &amp;quot;Vorthos&amp;quot; here probably means playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Patriarch&quot;&gt;Cabal Patriarch&lt;/a&gt; as your general with Phage, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chainer%2C%20Dementia%20Master&quot;&gt;Chainer, Dementia Master&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Braids%2C%20Cabal%20Minion&quot;&gt;Braids, Cabal Minion&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Balthor%20the%20Defiled&quot;&gt;Balthor the Defiled&lt;/a&gt; in the deck. With cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Coffers&quot;&gt;Cabal Coffers&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirari&quot;&gt;Mirari&lt;/a&gt;, you can still make a pretty powerful deck despite any flavor constraints. (Alternatively, you could use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karona&quot;&gt;Karona&lt;/a&gt; as your general and play Phage and Akroma within the deck in reference to her individual parts.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="7531" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T19:13:36.003" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T19:13:36.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2012-06-14T22:39:08.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term Gateway game comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gateway_drug_theory&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gateway drug&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A gateway game is like a gateway drug.  It's what you give to somebody in hopes of them enjoying it and trying harder more intense variations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I want to get my non nerdy friends to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;  with me (a cooperative game) but it looks too fiddly for them and the theme has too much science for my friends' tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I bust out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/a&gt; which is easier to win and has very similar mechanics and rules. They enjoy it so I can suggest Pandemic next time and they will be much more likely to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12493/twilight-imperium-third-edition&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twilight Imperium&lt;/a&gt; have a similar relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2932" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-06-14T23:32:15.993" LastActivityDate="2012-06-14T23:32:15.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7399" CreationDate="2012-06-15T01:26:01.100" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;BGG has this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Glossary#toc72&quot;&gt;definition&lt;/a&gt; in their glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A game with simple rules that is easy to teach to non-gamers in order to attract new players into boardgaming as a hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually people will say that a Gateway Game must have at least these qualities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple&lt;/strong&gt; (so you can explain the rules to them quickly).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fun&lt;/strong&gt; (fun games will attract repeat plays).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short&lt;/strong&gt; (short &lt;strong&gt;hits&lt;/strong&gt; can be played again, &lt;strong&gt;misses&lt;/strong&gt; gives you time to play something else).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real problem with this definition is that the focus is on the game, and not the goal. If your goal is to attract new players to boardgaming as a hobby, the focus should be on the player. There is no silver bullet with a Gateway Game. The game needs to match the player that you are trying to convert. If you know the new player or can get to know them, you can make better decisions about what games they might be interested in. Speaking in just generalities though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are you trying to convert a brand new player who has never played any games?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of player doesn't have any background in any sort of game mechanics. It would be best to focus on a game that has only one or a couple game mechanics so that they don't have to learn too many new things all at once. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/172/for-sale&quot;&gt;For Sale&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12942/no-thanks&quot;&gt;No Thanks&lt;/a&gt; have just a bidding mechanic. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41/cant-stop&quot;&gt;Can't Stop&lt;/a&gt; has a push your luck mechanic. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2453/blokus&quot;&gt;Blokus&lt;/a&gt; has an area control mechanic. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19237/cash-n-guns&quot;&gt;Cash n' Guns&lt;/a&gt; has a hidden selection mechanic. The shorter the game, the better, since you can try many different games until you find one that clicks. Then stick with that game for a while until that player becomes comfortable with the game mechanics and understands that strategies in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are you trying to convert a Monopoly, Risk, Trivial Pursuit, kids board game player?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing wrong with suggesting something that might be already familiar. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; has pieces like houses and hotels, and resources (goods instead of cash) are collected based upon what players roll. If they like Risk, there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/105134/risk-legacy&quot;&gt;Risk Legacy&lt;/a&gt;, and for Trivia buffs there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20100/wits-wagers&quot;&gt;Wits and Wagers&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are you trying to convert a Party Game player?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games with lots of player interaction, or cooperative in nature, since they focus on the social aspect of games. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65244/forbidden-island&quot;&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are you trying to convert a Chess, Go, Bridge, Poker, or other classic game player?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This person is already a gamer, so you are half way there. They know how to play by the rules and they probably have a good grasp on probability or board position. You probably want to focus on a games that have less luck, and more skill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are you trying to convert a MtG/Yugioh/Pokemon/CCG player?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This person probably already is a gamer by most people's definition. If your goal is to open their mind up to the rest of the board gaming world, you might want to focus on card games so that they are playing a familiar game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/79073/resident-evil-deck-building-game&quot;&gt;Resident Evil: the Deck Building Game&lt;/a&gt;. Nothing wrong with stretching out to something completely different though. Something themed and less abstract might be more to their liking &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/42776/gears-of-war-the-board-game&quot;&gt;Gears of War&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot;&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37111/battlestar-galactica&quot;&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question, why or why not are certain games are considered gateway games, it usually comes down to not meeting one of the criteria above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly: Isn't fun. Players have very few interesting decisions to make that will have any impact on the outcome of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Race for the Galaxy: Isn't simple. I think that mostly it is the iconography that trips everyone up here. The rules themselves are fairly simple to explain (choose an action for the turn, all players perform all actions with bonuses for selecting that action, pay cards to play cards unless military, repeat), but the total number of icons and choices per turn is probably overwhelming for most players.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spades: Not a Hobby/Designer Game. Most &quot;gamers&quot; do not consider classic games like Chess, Checkers, Go, Hearts, Poker, etc. to be hobby games. Teaching someone to play these types of games will not usually get them any closer to being interested in playing designer games that you would find in your friendly local gaming store. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan: A Gateway Game. One of the quintessential gateway games.  Simple rules (roll dice, distribute goods, trade/build, repeat), fun to play, somewhat short (1-1.5 hours) if you use the City/Settlement starting rule. A little bit for every type of player, lots of player interaction through trading, a screw you over mechanic, some luck so the first game isn't a complete blowout, limited options per turn so tactical decisions are easier, and clear VP point system so you know how well you are doing (mini goals).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride: A Gateway Game. Simple rules (play sets of colored cars, draw cards, link cities to complete tickets), fun game play, and relatively short duration. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not going to find a definitive definition of what is or isn't a Gateway Game. The idea behind it though is to find a game (theme, mechanic) that the new gamer might be interested in so that they become interested in the wealth of games that are available in the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-06-23T14:09:31.533" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T14:09:31.533" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7632" CreationDate="2012-06-15T12:33:50.383" Score="12" ViewCount="1923" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing for money in this meaning would be single games played for some stake, not tournaments with a prize money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Backgammon has a large tradition to be played like, chess a smaller one (I think). I havn't heard of Go in such a context. Is this (widely) done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2965" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T02:19:49.277" Title="Is Go played for money?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2012-06-15T12:56:17.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no particular tradition of players gambling over a game of Go. Go is generally a teaching game, where a higher-skilled player will grant an opponent a number of handicap stones in order to even the playing field. This is not really compatible with the cutthroat atmosphere that wagers bring to the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T12:56:17.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7611" CreationDate="2012-06-15T14:07:55.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, so I finally figured it out and for the record, here is what I found works well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can stack cards descending by suit, do that but if it isn't possible and you have to stack on a different suit, make sure that there aren't any cards of the same suit that are of a LOWER value beneath them.  That way you can ensure you aren't locking up that suit in that tableau pile.  That worked for me!  Also, don't forget that you can put an Ace on top of a 2 if you need to pull a King from another tableau pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2959" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T14:07:55.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7899" CreationDate="2012-06-15T14:31:28.973" Score="24" ViewCount="86109" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the official rules of Monopoly, can you offer immunity to other players in deals? Also, what about tournament play, which has different rules again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, it was a common house rule from my childhood that where two players were making a deal, but one of the players was more at risk of landing on the other player's property in the next move or two, the owner of those properties would offer immunity for the next time around the board (or maybe even the next two or three times around the board). So this is a popular house rule, but is it allowed in the official Monopoly rules and in tournament play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2966" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T04:47:13.147" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T00:13:50.583" Title="In the official rules of Monopoly, can you offer immunity to other players in deals?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2012-06-15T14:41:31.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Immunities&quot;, whether lifetime or partial, are not permitted in the official rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Official&quot; tournament rules used to be available online that addressed this, but Hasbro has sent cease-and-desist letter to most sites hosting copies of the official Monopoly rules. Their current site's section for instruction manuals is less than helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unofficial but credible reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mospaw.com/monopoly/some-obscure-monopoly-rules-explained/12/information&quot;&gt;http://mospaw.com/monopoly/some-obscure-monopoly-rules-explained/12/information&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T15:34:24.493" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T15:34:24.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2012-06-15T14:58:24.203" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the West, Go is almost exclusively played for fun. The exception here would top players who strive for tournament price money. This is actually a pretty important, there have been intense discussions between the organizers of the major Go tournaments/congresses and top players about the sum and distribution of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Asia, Go is more often than not played without money on stake, however, betting on your own games is well known, too, especially for older folks. In Japan, there is a basic differentiation how money is distributed according to the result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &lt;em&gt;ban-go&lt;/em&gt; the winner simply takes it all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &lt;em&gt;me-go&lt;/em&gt; money is exchanged according to the territory at the end, so winning with a large difference is advantageous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Korea, betting games are called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BangNeki&quot;&gt;Bang Neki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, typically with a fixed sum for winning and extra money for each &lt;em&gt;bang&lt;/em&gt; (score difference of 10 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="854" LastEditDate="2012-06-15T16:55:29.757" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T16:55:29.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7642" CreationDate="2012-06-15T17:25:42.053" Score="14" ViewCount="4710" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Clue, I can usually use careful observation of my own and others' suggestions to gradually eliminate possibilities. But when should I make the final accusation? Should I wait until I am 100% sure I am correct, or eventually take a chance? How can I tell if the other players are close enough to making their own accusations that I should make mine first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I only get to make one accusation in the game (if I get it wrong I get no further moves), I figure I should at least be 50% sure that I am correct, but I'm curious as to when suggestions should be made earlier or later than my general guidelines suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T23:26:05.170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T23:26:05.170" Title="When should I make an accusation in Clue?" Tags="|cluedo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7337" CreationDate="2012-06-15T20:25:26.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;a is not the joseki move b is do tewari black starpoint white kakari black pincer white invade 3-3 black blocks white nobi (move 10) black b then black hane and connect before jump&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2967" LastActivityDate="2012-06-15T20:25:26.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-15T21:46:46.393" Score="14" ViewCount="17408" Body="&lt;p&gt;One strategy I've heard of in clue is to name a card or two in your own hand when making a suggestion. I presume this is primarily so you can gain information about the other two factors that need to be determined (the three being murderer, location, and weapon), because if you name a place from your own hand, the player who disproves you must reveal either a weapon or a murderer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I make a suggestion that includes a card from my hand? Would it potentially be advisable to make a suggestion that includes 2 or even 3 cards from my hand? Do I reveal extra undesired information to other players when I do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T00:52:34.660" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T14:51:36.370" Title="When to make suggestions that include cards in my own hand in clue?" Tags="|cluedo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:11:42.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers good; my two cents: If you pass high hearts include a low heart too. It makes it very hard for someone to shoot the moon if you pass them the Ace and the 2 of Hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T02:11:42.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7635" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:22:38.053" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should almost always make suggestions that include one or two cards in your hand, especially after you know one or two of the real murder components. (Though this might change with the number of players. I'm used to playing with 3 or 4 people.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end goal isn't to know &lt;strong&gt;who&lt;/strong&gt; holds which cards, it's to know which cards are &lt;strong&gt;not held&lt;/strong&gt;. The most efficient way to gather information isn't when someone shows you a card, it's when they pass; especially when all other players pass. This does give information to other players, but more to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Illustrative Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the real solution is Prof. Plum with the Rope in the Conservatory. It's Player A's turn and he's in the Conservatory. If Player A makes a random guess of cards he doesn't hold, maybe Player A gets lucky and accuses Prof. Plum (correct) with the Revolver, and of course the Conservatory. What Player A learns is who holds the Revolver. If he's extra lucky, the person holding the Revolver isn't  the person on his left, so maybe A will see a pass or two before being shown the Revolver, learning a more. However, if A suggests Ms. White (in hand) with the Knife (in hand) in the Conservatory, everyone will pass, and Player A learns that &lt;em&gt;the Conservatory is the room&lt;/em&gt;! The other players will know that Player A made a big discovery---they desperately need to check out Ms. White &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the Knife &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the Conservatory, because at least one of those is part of the solution. But they don't know which one. (Ignoring the unlikely possibility of a &lt;em&gt;wasted turn gamble&lt;/em&gt; where Player A deliberately made an accusation while holding &lt;em&gt;all three&lt;/em&gt; cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's step into another player's shoes. Player B knows that Player A learned something big, so she runs to the nearby Billiard Room and suggests Ms. White with the Knife. If &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; shows her a card, Player A knows that it's the Billiard Room, because he holds Ms. White and the Knife. Great! &lt;em&gt;Player A learned as much as Player B did on Player B's turn&lt;/em&gt;. If people pass until Player A, he shows her, say, the Knife, and Player A knows that either Player B or someone sitting to his left before B holds the Billiard Room. Player A will now preferentially show the Knife rather than Ms. White to anyone. Meanwhile Player C can guess that Player A has one of the Knife or Ms. White, but Player C still has to make their own suggestion to find out which. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast this with Player B being a little more conniving: she decides to test Player A's knowledge more gradually. She accuses Col. Mustard (in her hand) with the Knife in the Billiard Room. Now if someone before Player A shows her a card, Player A can't be sure if it's the Billiard room or if it's Col. Mustard. If it gets around to Player A, he doesn't have a choice of what to show Player B, he must show the Knife, which is also better for B than if A gets to choose. So it's in Player B's best interest to make suggestions including cards from her hand too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other considerations&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggesting 3 cards from your hand is a devious way to throw people off track, but you lose a turn of information gathering to do it. In my experience, the opportunity cost is too high for this to be worthwhile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your card distribution (especially what rooms you hold) can affect your ability to make suggestions involving cards from your hand. I try to make one of the first 3 rooms I visit a room I hold. It's especially nice if you hold two secret passage rooms to hop back and forth between the two (though pretty soon everyone will know what you're doing). It can be tough if you hold only one card (or worse, none!) of a category. I'll focus on that category first so that I can at least alternately suggest 2 items when I get to the other categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does make sense to not be too consistent. If you &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; make suggestions that include 2 cards from your hand, your opponents will learn this habit. Then the player who shows you a a card can be reasonably certain you hold the other two. Vary your play to keep your opponents from being too sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning of the game, it's fine to make suggestions with only one card you hold, or the occasional 0-held-card suggestion. You'll stil learn something--maybe you'll get lucky and learn a lot. But as soon as you know one category there's no point in making a suggestion involving a card in that category that someone else holds. You already know &lt;em&gt;somebody&lt;/em&gt; holds the card, but you shouldn't care who.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr: You learn more from people passing than showing your cards. People pass more often if you make suggestions that use some cards from your hand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="26991" LastEditDate="2019-03-31T14:51:36.370" LastActivityDate="2019-03-31T14:51:36.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:29:45.430" Score="3" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/clueins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Clue rules&lt;/a&gt; call for a clockwise turn order, and a clockwise order of disproving suggestions. Would changing the order of the turn, or the order of disproving a suggestion so one is the opposite/reverse of the other have any meaning effect on strategy or gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Miss Scarlet— the player with the red token— always plays first. Play then proceeds, in&#xA;  turn, to the first player’s left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proving a Suggestion True or False&lt;/strong&gt; - As soon as you make a Suggestion, your opponents, in turn, try to prove it false. &lt;strong&gt;The first to try is the player to your immediate left&lt;/strong&gt;. This player looks at his or her cards to see if one of the three cards you just named is there. If the player does have one of the cards named, he or she must show it to you and no one else. If the player has more than one of the cards named, he or she selects just one to show you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If that opponent has none of the cards that you named, then the chance to prove your&#xA;  Suggestion false passes, in turn, to the next player on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T19:06:14.417" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T18:56:41.410" Title="Would a turn order opposite the disprove order affect the strategy or gameplay in Clue?" Tags="|cluedo|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7646" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:39:47.580" Score="6" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/sf/19&quot;&gt;Kelly Digges played both&lt;/a&gt;, but didn't make any comment on how/if it affected gameplay in any meaningful way. He also doesn't list any difference in his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/sf/60&quot;&gt;What's in a name Multiplayer Variants article&lt;/a&gt;. I seem to remember that either Anthony Alongi, or the Ferret commented on the differences between the two, but cannot seem to find their articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect (if any) does Attack Left vs Attack Right have on MtG multiplayer strategy/gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T05:02:47.477" Title="What effect does Attack Left vs Attack Right have on MtG multiplayer strategy?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2012-06-16T02:59:30.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't imagine changing turn order would change much. When I play, we usually roll to see who goes first and pick you pick a character on your first turn. It doesn't seem to affect things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing the order of proving a suggestion True or False, could change things if the order was dynamic. I think any fixed order would be equivalent, but if the order were randomly determined after a suggestion is made, that would need to be accounted for in the suggestion. Sometimes I'll be really only testing one person on one card, so I'd have to be more careful if I didn't know the order. This would probably also slow down gameplay and be a bit confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose you could have the suggester (or another player) determine the order of proving accusations false on each turn. This would change the game, at least if I was playing and following the strategy outlined in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/7637/1749&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, because then (following that example) Player B could skip straight to Player A and capitalize more efficiently on what she learned from Player B's turn. Thus I think it would weaken that strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T02:59:30.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7635" CreationDate="2012-06-16T03:09:35.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you should probably only do so before everyone else could deduce that you have it. For example, lets say that previously you disproved Col. Mustard, &lt;strong&gt;Candlestick&lt;/strong&gt;, and Study. At some later point, you could not disprove Col. Mustard, &lt;strong&gt;Revolver&lt;/strong&gt;, and Study. Your opponents should know at this point you have Candlestick in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to use Candlestick in your future suspicions, you are giving your opponents extra information. If no one disproves you, they will now know the correct Suspect and Room or you have either the Suspect and/or the Room (see all 3 cards below) card(s) from you suspicion. If someone disproves you they know what that person gave you the Suspect or the Room, since they &lt;strong&gt;know&lt;/strong&gt; you have the Candlestick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also sometimes useful to choose a Suspect that happens to be in your hand (or even in the envelope), even if other players know that you have it (or it is in the envelope), just to move that player pawn away from a room that you would prefer they didn't make a suspicion from. This is especially true near the end of the game, when usually it is only the &lt;strong&gt;Room&lt;/strong&gt; that people don't know since there are 9 of those and only 6 of the other card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When should I make suspicions that include 1 card from my hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, the reason for doing this is so that you can eliminate one or more possible cards that a player used to disprove another players suspicion. If at some point, a player 2-3 seats to the left disproved Col. Mustard, Candlestick, and Study. You have the Candlestick in hand, and you want to know exactly which card the Study/Col. Mustard they used to disprove the other players suspicion (perhaps, because this will let you know that persons final card. If you know their final card, you know that they don't have all other cards.) That will be useful later on when you want to make suspicions that get past that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When should I make suspicions that include 2 cards from my hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually do this less often (if ever). I could see using 2 cards from your hand if you needed to find out the final card that you where unsure of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When should I make suspicions that include 3 cards from my hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Never&lt;/strong&gt;. The point of a suspicion is to eliminate possible murderers, weapons, or rooms and deduce the correct cards within the envelope. If you make a suspicion that includes all the cards in your hand, you gain no new information (you know everyone else cannot disprove you). You have given everyone else extra information, because they all now know that no one else except for possibly you has those cards. The only possible time that you would do this, is if you already know who the correct answer, and in that case there would be no point since you can accuse immediately. If you are just messing around and have no intention of winning, it is easy enough for at least one opponents to verify if you have the Room and/or Weapon cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T03:09:35.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7633" CreationDate="2012-06-16T03:28:28.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think your general guideline of 50% certain is accurate. When you make an accusation is more dependent upon how much your opponents know, and how likely you are going to be able to make another useful suspicion before the end of the game. BTW, there aren't that may possibilities for certainty at which you would make an accusation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100% - Deduced all cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50% - Know all cards except 2 of one type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;33% - Know all cards except 3 of one type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;25% - Know all cards except 2 of one type, and 2 of another (or 4 of one type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16.7% - Know all cards except 3 of one type, and 2 of another (or 5 of one type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... doubtful you would make an accusation at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played quite a few games, and I am pretty sure that in most of them, a player that won made an accusation &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; they where 100% sure. It is very difficult to be so far ahead that only you know will be 100% sure before everyone else knows enough information to be 100% themselves, or close enough that they shouldn't risk a guess before you get your next turn. I will give some concrete examples below for illustration (when I can think of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I tell if other players are close to making an accusation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways to determine what your opponents know (or should know).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A suspicion does not get disproved.&lt;/strong&gt; If a suspicion goes all the way around the table, there are only two possibilities. The player making the suspicion has none of those cards in their hand, in which case that player is 100% sure and should make an immediate accusation and win the game. The player player making the suspicion has one or more of those cards in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A suspicion for a particular Suspect, Weapon, or Room is not disproved by a player that previously disproved a suspicion with that element.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine that you suspect: Col. Mustard, with the Candlestick, in the Billiard Room, and Player A immediately to your left disproved them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a later point, you suspect: Col. Mustard, with the Candlestick, in the Conservatory, and Player A &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; disprove them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponents should know, even without seeing Player A's cards that Player A has &lt;strong&gt;Billiard Room&lt;/strong&gt; in their hand (and doesn't have Col. Mustard or Candlestick).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A player continually uses the same Suspect, Weapon, or Room.&lt;/strong&gt; While this cannot be directly deduced from the process of elimination as in the above examples, it is highly likely that the player that is continually reusing the same Suspect, Weapon, or Room is their suspicions because, they are trying to make a suspicion that will go all the way around that will tell them with certainty one or more of the elements that they don't know. You know that either: 1) They have that card (or multiple cards) that they keep reusing, or  2) They don't have &lt;strong&gt;any cards of that type&lt;/strong&gt; (Suspect, Weapon, or Room), and are using the card in the envelope because they have no choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I could provide some concrete examples to illustrate when you might venture a guess at 50%, 33%, ..., but it has been ages since I played a game of Clue. It is difficult to envision a situation that doesn't sound contrived without playing a real game, and using a real world example in which you almost sure of the answer, and you know exactly which cards your opponents still think might be in the envelope. I might try to convince the family to play a game of Clue, so that I can edit the post to be more helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T03:28:28.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2012-06-16T10:32:39.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes a subtle difference, in that, to prove you wrong, they have to reveal a card in your proposed solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you (Ay) say Col M in the Kitchen with the Pipe, and the next player (Bee) has Col M, the one after (See) has Kitchen and Pipe, you don't find out that See has kitchen or pipe; you only know that Bee has the Col M card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out if Kitchen and Pipe are out there, you need to use a guy that YOU don't have, and Bee doesn't have, so that See has to reveal either kitchen OR pipe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also note, in the above example, See knows which card was revealed to Ay, because he has the other two. He can now mark it off. But going the other way, Bee doesn't know which card was revealed to Ay. The reverse can happen in other ways, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go with first to reveal, you might find out about the pipe or kitchen AND Col M. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, if the first to disprove is the one who played last, you have reason to suspect that they don't have their called suggestion; it changes slightly the strategy in what you pick, because you know that they will get to examine you based upon what they have just tried to solve with.&#xA;If you go with simultaneous reveal, you guarantee learning more than what you're supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just change the turn order the other direction, you learn either the pipe or the kitchen, but not the Col.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-06-16T10:38:36.260" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T10:38:36.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7633" CreationDate="2012-06-16T10:43:36.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two critera for when to accuse...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I'm reasonably certain I know (No more than 2 unknowns in one type) - because I'm 50% likely to guess correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I'm tired of playing, because, right or wrong, I'm done. (Not really, but it's going to speed things up since I only need to pay attention to people's suspicions for proving them wrong.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T10:43:36.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7639" CreationDate="2012-06-16T11:30:22.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Advantaging beatdown vs. defense&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &amp;quot;attack left&amp;quot; (unless I'm the last player to go), my turn-2 attack will be against an opponent who has yet to take his second turn; in &amp;quot;attack right&amp;quot; (unless I'm the first player to go), it'll be against the player who has already gotten to take his own turn 2 to fortify his position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of each attacking-player/defending-player pairing as a microcosm of beatdown-vs.-control in a larger game. &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Attack left&amp;quot; is a lot like the beatdown deck getting to play first in a duel; &amp;quot;attack right&amp;quot; is a lot like the control player getting to take the first turn.&lt;/strong&gt; Think about how much that affects the flow of the game in a duel. And, also, note how little it matters when both decks are going for a slow-and-steady strategy, as tends to be common in decks tuned for free-for-all casual multiplayer rather than duels or &amp;quot;attack-one&amp;quot; multiplayer specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared to &amp;quot;attack left,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;attack right&amp;quot; makes it slightly easier to defend yourself in the early game; that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt; starts to look a lot better when you realize you'll be able to cast it in time to defend against an aggressive opponent's (non-hasty) two-drops!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hallmark of the variant is that you're always having to think about both offense and defense, so it would be overly reductive to say &amp;quot;attack right&amp;quot; favors the defender -- &lt;em&gt;everyone&lt;/em&gt; is a defender. Rather, it's easier to avoid early damage in &amp;quot;attack right,&amp;quot; which offers an enticement to go just a little bit &amp;quot;bigger&amp;quot; without risking an auto-loss to fast aggressive decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sweepers play differently&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a niche concern that's big enough to point out specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you just &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; one of the other players is going to drop a sweeper on this pass around the board -- maybe because it's obvious (like, say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scourglass&quot;&gt;Scourglass&lt;/a&gt; already in play), maybe just you have strong Magic instincts, maybe you know the game will be over anyway if he or she doesn't. In &amp;quot;attack left,&amp;quot; it's desirable to go for an &amp;quot;all-in&amp;quot; attack in the hopes of getting some damage through, since your aggressor's guys will all be dead before they get a chance to attack you anyway. In &amp;quot;attack right,&amp;quot; it's much more suicidal, since you're setting yourself up to be wide open when it's time to defend yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Non-strategic gameplay differences&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Kelly says in the linked article,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of ending my turn and waiting all the way around the turn&#xA;order to be attacked, I passed the turn to someone who immediately&#xA;attacked me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's true, but it doesn't really matter that much on a pure strategic level. Either way, your turn is spent attacking and preparing for your opponent's next assault -- whether that comes &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; a series of actions that mainly don't affect you directly is strategically inconsequential. Rather, &lt;strong&gt;the shift between passing the turn and waiting to be attacked vs. passing and immediately being the defending player is psychological rather than strategic&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there's a reason to pick one variant over the other on the this basis, too -- psychological perception still affects gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, multiplayer Magic sometimes has problems with board state comprehension, analysis paralysis, and loss of focus. So, when Kelly says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I got used to it, though, it felt very natural to pass the turn&#xA;to someone who would then immediately attack me. That meant that I&#xA;could more or less space out during Matt and Laura's turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's non-trivial. It doesn't affect strategy per se, but it does affect gameplay. Making it easier to players to know when they should focus and when they can &amp;quot;space&amp;quot; a bit means less time wasted on &amp;quot;Whose turn is it,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;Oh, I had a response for that,&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;When did &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; happen?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic tends towards this cycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decide which resources you're going to commit to attack and defense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up for defense (e.g. cast stuff on your second main).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go back to 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's because the main time to make these decisions is at the start of your turn, having just seen your new card. Part of the strategic appeal of MTG is that you need to be adjusting your plans all the time in response to changing circumstances, including on your opponent's turn; but whatever you do then is constrained by the setup decisions you made on your own turn -- which lands and creatures you played, how many dudes you set aside to block, how much untapped mana you have to pay for Instants and abilities, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attack-defend-wait pattern (in &amp;quot;attack right&amp;quot;) fits this decision-making process better. &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Attack left&amp;quot; puts more time between making your defensive plans and executing them, which can lead to greater memory and focus issues at the table.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all a bit oversimplified, though. The ideal strategic posture is not to &amp;quot;space out&amp;quot; at all, because, even with limited attacks or range of influence, everything that happens on the board is relevant to you. One of the more important &amp;quot;advanced&amp;quot; techniques in &amp;quot;attack-one&amp;quot; multiplayer is using your removal during your aggressor's defense time (thereby forcing him or her to make worse blocks or expend more resources &lt;em&gt;against his/her opponent&lt;/em&gt;). Can't really do that if you're only paying attention on your own turn and immediately afterward!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if you can avoid cycles of waxing and waning attention, you won't waste everyone's time trying to &amp;quot;catch up&amp;quot; on the board state during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-06-18T05:02:47.477" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T05:02:47.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7633" CreationDate="2012-06-16T15:30:40.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Clue in a group where there was an implicit house rule that you could only accuse when you were 100% certain. In other words, if you accused and were wrong, the penalty was worse than just losing the game - you were ridiculed for your poor logic skills that led to an invalid conclusion. (We have always found the sheets provided for recording information ridiculously inaccurate, BTW - basically everyone would record a complete transcript of every suspicion, of who proposes the suspicion and who did and, more importantly, did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; disprove it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my answer would be: it depends on the group you are playing with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T15:30:40.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-16T17:29:02.067" Score="16" ViewCount="7289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.setgame.com/set/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SET&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a few times now and have noticed some general strategies arise. At the beginning, I try to take in the distribution of the 4 characteristics so I can figure out if I should be looking for sets that are all different or all the same in each of them. If there are a lot a purple cards, some green, and 3 or less red cards, the most likely sets are going to be either all purple, or involve those red cards, so I should probably either look for all purple sets or look at the red cards, see what green cards I could combine with them, and finally see if the final purple card is present. If the distributions are pretty even, then I should probably look at another characteristic or look for 3-different color sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, beyond this, I am at a loss of how to advance my strategy. I could try to do a more thorough analysis of each of the 4 characteristic distributions, but this takes time and only tells me where the most likely sets are to be found, so I sometimes wonder if I would be better off just looking randomly for sets from the very beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some good strategies for SET? Specifically, how can I tell when I should look for sets randomly rather than try to use intuition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T23:48:52.693" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T23:48:52.693" Title="What techniques do high level SET players use when looking at a layout of cards?" Tags="|set|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7652" CreationDate="2012-06-16T18:11:49.067" Score="13" ViewCount="2567" Body="&lt;p&gt;How vital is it to trash Estates in the early rounds of a Dominion game, given that there is an action card available to trash Estates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T17:45:48.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T18:35:14.960" Title="Trashing Estates in Dominion" Tags="|dominion|trashing|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7650" CreationDate="2012-06-16T19:11:45.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with all games of Dominion, it depends upon the Kingdom Cards available. Estates are no help to you in the early game (barring a &lt;strong&gt;Baron&lt;/strong&gt; or similar card). Trashing them will increase your average Coins per Hand, and make it easier to by more expensive cards, especially those in the 5+ range that tend to be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a card that can trash an Estate in your deck during the early game, you will most likely be better off trashing it. The choice of buying a card that Trashes an Estate rather than a Silver or other card will depend on the Kingdom cards available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T19:11:45.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7650" CreationDate="2012-06-16T19:42:05.313" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multi-card trashing, when available, is usually the best way to open the game. Indeed, as The Chaz says, you want to get rid of your coppers as well your estates. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theory's writeup on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/11/17/dominion-chapel/&quot;&gt;chapel&lt;/a&gt; gives a thorough coverage of the quality of dense decks.  You can also see how many of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/openings&quot;&gt;best openings&lt;/a&gt; from the 6 million games played online involve the chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trashing with single card trashers like Remodel and Develop are less pressing and often not the best opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2012-06-16T19:42:05.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7655" CreationDate="2012-06-17T10:37:02.343" Score="15" ViewCount="2387" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been enjoying playing Arkham Horror a lot but it seems to be lacking in narrative. I've read that there are scenarios that add a story element to the game&#xA;Is there a good resource for these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:15:00.827" Title="Sources for scenarios for Arkham Horror" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7654" CreationDate="2012-06-17T12:47:41.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Custom Scenarios were used in 2 Arkham Horror Leagues, organized by Fantasy Flight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the whole scenarios from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Category%3AScenarios&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Wiki Scenarios Category&lt;/a&gt; page, along with pdf printouts of each story. There doesn't appear to be a summary of season 1, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compilations of the league scenarios nicely assembled were contributed to the file section on boardgamegeek in pdf format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/79636/arkham-horror-league-season-1-2008-all-one&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;League 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/80110/arkham-horror-league-season-2-2009-all-one&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;League 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T19:15:00.827" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:15:00.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7650" CreationDate="2012-06-17T15:00:05.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main things you need to consider when trashing your starting cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will trashing do for me? If there's a great engine on the board, then trashing is a great way to help the engine components line up. On the other hand, if you're playing a money-based strategy, trashing is usually bad because your starting Coppers still contribute to your economy and there's a huge opportunity cost to trashing just your Estates (buying a trasher instead of a Silver, which slows your economy every time you draw the trasher, plus the decreased buying power on the turns you trash cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will the game end? If the game is going to end on piles, that means it's probably too fast to overcome a deficit from trashing your starting Estates. Plus, in alternate VP scenarios, Copper is a great card because it moves your average hand value closer to $5, so trashing your starting Coppers is an even worse idea than trashing your Estates. Conversely, if the game is going to end on Colonies, you have a lot more time to make up your initial VP deficit. The tempo of the game can also be affected by attacks, actions like Masquerade (you want to be able to pass your Estates to your opponent, which means not trashing them on your own), etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How good is the trashing? Chapel and Remake are elite early game trashers. Trading Post is awesome if you open 5/2, but it drops to almost useless if you don't hit $5 until turn 5 or later. Upgrade is an awful card for just thinning your deck, but trashing your starting cards is an ok consolation prize while you're trying to set up Upgrade-&gt;Grand Market or something similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2012-06-17T15:00:05.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7831" CreationDate="2012-06-18T03:14:06.287" Score="10" ViewCount="16205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen lots of Axis &amp;amp; Allies discussion refer to &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; in passing. I understand it has something to do with the US and UK supporting Russia in northern Europe using fighters and transports. Due to my inexperience with the game, I can't really figure out what's going on beyond that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is &quot;shuck-shuck&quot;? How did it get its name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it such a fixture in A&amp;amp;A discussions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T00:51:45.457" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T23:33:13.630" Title="What is the &quot;shuck-shuck&quot; strategy?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-18T05:52:26.670" Score="4" ViewCount="418" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell Red Sign of Shudde M'ell allows an investigator to ignore one of a monster's special abilities other than Magical Immunity, such as Magical Resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know how the timing of the spell in conjunction with equipment usage affects the value of a combat check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, an investigator faces a monster of type &quot;Witch&quot; with the special ability Magical Resistance, armed with an Enchanted Knife (+4 combat check, magical weapon) and a Red Sign of Shudde M'ell.  First, the investigator equips the Enchanted Knife, using up one hand, and then equips the Red Sign with the other hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much skill check bonus does the investigator get?  There are two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)  The Enchanted Knife is used against the Witch first, but only gives +2 combat check because of the resistance, so the investigator rolls the two additional dice.  Then the resistance is removed by the Red Sign, giving a total of only 2 bonus.  Since the order in which the items are equipped is important, the player should've tried to cast Red Sign first (because it can fail).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Even though the Red Sign was equipped after the Enchanted Knife, the player must retroactively apply the removal of Magical Resistance against all Magical Weapons equipped in case the Red Sign was successfully cast.  After rolling the two dice for the Enchanted Knife against the magically resistant witch, the investigator can remove those two dice from the pool of rolled dice and then roll an additional four dice to take its place (since the Enchanted Knife would give +4 combat check given the absence of Magical Resistance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first case is easier to calculate using a spreadsheet program because more cell values become immutable.  The second one is harder because it involves adding a means to reset the current calculation and a more complicated conditional expression to evaluate all skill check value bonuses depending on the presence and subsequent negation of monster special abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tactical decisions are more pronounced when there are more hand resources to allocate, such as Marie's third hand for spells.  The player using Marie can decide how to allocate the third hand based on the resulting successes of the rolls resulting from the equipment and Red Sign used for the first two hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap: How is the Red Sign of Shudde M'ell supposed to affect the value (i.e. number of dice rolled) for a combat check based on the timing of its use?  Does it matter whether you use it first or last?  Why or why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T13:25:37.160" Title="Immunities/Resistance, Red Sign of Shudde M'ell and Equipment Timing" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7658" CreationDate="2012-06-18T13:25:37.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While generally it doesn't matter, all the dice in a skill checks should be rolled at the same time. So it doesn't matter which order you use various spells and items. (The only corner case I can think of at the moment is the Lucky Cigarette case, which lets you reroll all the dice that you had in the check normally in addition to any that were added to the check due to clue token expenditure, but that's not quite the same situation). It looks like your confusion is arising from your second scenario, in which you roll dice for the skill check as you select additional items to use. You should be looking at everything that's getting used in the battle (weapons, allies, environment, injuries, combat penalty, etc.), figure out the aggregate bonus/penalty, apply that to the base state (Fight, Lore, etc.), and then roll that many dice. So the order in which items are 'applied' is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the correct scenario is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If you succeeded at casting Red Sign, the Witch no longer has Magical Resistance, so the Enchanted Knife gives it's full combat bonus of +3 (The +4 is the Enchanted Blade, not the Knife). Adding in your Fight score of (as an example) 3, the Witch's Combat modifier of -3, and (for further example) Tom 'Mountain' Murphy's bonus of +2, you end with a bonus of five, so you roll five dice. Everything gets summed up and everything gets rolled all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T13:25:37.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7661" CreationDate="2012-06-18T13:58:57.197" Score="5" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about a specific scenario involving life loss and gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have 3 life left, the creature &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Soulcage Fiend&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and also the enchantment &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240134&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now say my opponent kills Soulcage Fiend with some instant, would I lose the game? Or does the gain of life happen first, keeping me at 3 life when all is said and done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2973" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T05:04:58.143" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T05:04:58.143" Title="Gaining and losing life at the same time" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7660" CreationDate="2012-06-18T14:15:40.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;whenever&quot; usually means that the card triggers, which goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Oracle Text for Exquisite Blood:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you and an opponent both lose life simultaneously, and this causes your life total to become 0 or less, you'll lose the game before Exquisite Blood's triggered ability can resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T14:15:40.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2012-06-18T17:07:15.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many good set players don't use explicit strategies, focusing instead on tapping into their subconscious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about getting into a good flow state and staying there. Calm down, let go of explicit searches, and just allow your subconscious find the sets. Distracting your conscious mind can help, too -- a lot of people do better if they chat about something else while they play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T17:07:15.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5022" CreationDate="2012-06-18T18:27:46.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be a variation of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/allfours/pedro.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pedro&lt;/a&gt;. The first variation on that rules page is called &lt;strong&gt;High Five&lt;/strong&gt;, which sounds similar to your game name &amp;quot;High Nines&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarities to your description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uses full deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trump values: trump ace (&amp;quot;high&amp;quot;)     ...    1 point trump jack   ...    1 point trump ten (sometimes called &amp;quot;game&amp;quot;)  ...    1 point trump five&#xA;(&amp;quot;pedro&amp;quot;)  ...    5 points other five of same colour (&amp;quot;low pedro&amp;quot;)     ...    5&#xA;points trump two (&amp;quot;low&amp;quot;)   ...    1 point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you fail to make your bid, you subtract that amount from your score. Otherwise you score what you take and your opponents do the&#xA;same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nine Card Don&lt;/strong&gt; has a more pyramidal scoring structure, so I think this is a better fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-04-22T11:26:08.457" LastActivityDate="2021-04-22T11:26:08.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2012-06-18T19:57:13.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often times the best strategy is to not over think a strategy. I tend to go for base things that don't make me think much. Colors are easier for me to match than shapes, shapes easier than numbers, and numbers or counts last of all. I would figure out which patterns are easiest for you to discern given the pressure of time and work down from there to the hardest ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the better strategy overall isn't to look for patterns faster than your opponents. It's to look for patterns your opponents are not looking for. Color is one of those things a lot of players latch on to because it is easy to see. However, once color patterns are gone it becomes more difficult to latch onto other patterns. Cards that are prime numbers is not a pattern that most people would look for but one that could give you an edge if you happen to be attuned to picking them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the deck and just do a solo game from time to time. Familiarize yourself with the cards and the possible patterns you could make. Then figure out which ones are the easiest for you to see and your game style will come through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T19:57:13.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2012-06-18T20:04:43.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For purposes of describing things, I'm going to divide sets in &quot;easy&quot; sets -- those with 2 or 3 matching characteristics and only 1 or 2 non-matching ones, and &quot;hard&quot; sets -- those with NO matching characteristics.  I think this corresponds to how hard the sets are to spot for most people -- the easy sets will get spotted right away by most people, while the hard sets are hard to see even when they're pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when the cards are first revealed, I glance at them without concentrating on any particular card to see if there's an easy set.  If there is, it will generally get spotted by someone immediately.  If I don't see an easy set after a second or two, I start looking for a hard set.  First step there is to figure out which attributes are rare in the array -- if there's only a single red card or only a single solid card, any hard set will necessarily include that card.  Any attribute that appears on only two or three cards means that one of those cards will be in any hard sets.  This generally means you can narrow things down to 5-10 pairs of cards that differ in all attributes, and any possible hard set must include one of those pairs.  Then for each of those pairs, figure out what the third matching card is, and see if its on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process above will generally only take around 10 seconds or so.  By that point, if noone has seen a set there probably isn't one, but you can start looking for sets with 1 matching characteristic -- Look for the single most common characteristic on the table, and see if any three of those form a set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2012-06-18T20:04:43.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-19T15:23:48.107" Score="14" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the keys to tournament performance in Magic is proper sideboarding. This seems to be a point of failure with many Magic players that want to move up from casual play and compete in tournaments such as Star City Games Open, Grand Prix, TCG Player MaxPoint Series, and even large Friday Night Magic tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic concept is easy: Take out cards that are bad and put in cards that are good. This basic advice relies on three important prerequisites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You were able to correctly identify the metagame to determine which decks you would likely face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You were able to competently build a sideboard that fits with your deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You correctly identified which cards to add and remove during sideboarding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, there is no canonical answer to the first point, but the second and third points should be able to be strategized in a general manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you approach the sideboarding conundrum?  Are there any shortcuts or rules of thumb that have served you well, or resources that you refer to? Do you build sideboards with different goals for the different archetypes you play such as aggro, control, midrange, or tempo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-06-19T16:02:49.293" LastActivityDate="2021-12-22T09:21:32.697" Title="Becoming better at sideboarding" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2012-06-20T00:30:11.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without any exposure to game forums or outside advice, our play group outright banned Taster, Chamberlain, and Maypole after playing dozens of games with various combinations of the EIKZ decks.  Taster and Chamberlain were clearly overpowered - the latter being an almost guaranteed win.  Maypole led to poor sportsmanship, where opponents would intentionally bump the table to knock over the upright wooden fence piece &quot;pole.&quot; Ratcatcher and Lover are frowned upon, but we allow them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We probably should ban Braggart in Moors, as it often results in blowouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2977" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T00:30:11.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-20T02:01:24.147" Score="18" ViewCount="1693" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror, an investigator must pay the sanity cost of a spell before making a spell check to see whether it would succeed.  If the spell's sanity cost is X, and the investigator has only X sanity, can that investigator willfully attempt to cast the spell in order to go insane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Gloria has only 1 sanity, and she needs to reach the other side of Arkham all the way from St. Mary's Hospital, but moving there on foot will take her 5 turns due to some ongoing Mythos environment.  She has the spell Withering, which has a sanity cost of 1.  Even though she does not have the lore to cast it successfully, can she use that spell to go insane and teleport herself all the way to Arkham Asylum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap: Spells cannot be used unless they can be paid, but can you game the system when the situation demands it such that you obtain the benefits of paying everything you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T15:37:14.417" Title="In Arkham Horror, can you pay sanity costs to go insane on purpose?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7668" CreationDate="2012-06-20T03:35:11.603" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Just as there's nothing stopping you from not using your weapons to purposefully fail a combat check against a Nightgaunt to go through a gate, or purposefully failing a sneak check to take combat damage and get sent to the hospital, there's nothing stopping you from casting a spell when there's no chance of you succeeding. The closest thing I can come up with for a reference to your suggested scenario is a question from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/437-official-answers-from-kevin-wilson/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kevin Wilson Answers thread on the Fantasy Flight Games forum&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one goes insane or unconscious or is devoured as a result of casting a spell or using an item, is it generally the case that the&#xA;effect of the spell or item still occurs (in the same way an Elder&#xA;Sign's effect takes place even if one of the above happens as a result&#xA;of using it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. It will often not matter, however, as in the case where you're&#xA;getting a combat bonus or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's definitely allowed that you could cast a spell that drives you insane in the process. So a useful last-sanity draining spell use could be Healing another investigator, or casting Bind Monster, or Greater Banishment, etc. Anything with an immediate effect after making the Casting Check. The only limitation on the spell casting I'd say is that you can't try to cast a spell outside of a situation it would be useful in. i.e. I wouldn't allow casting Shriveling outside of combat just so the Investigator could go insane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T05:07:54.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7666" CreationDate="2012-06-20T10:16:32.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the hardest part of sideboarding is to know what cards to take out. There are some obvious cases like removing creature removal against a deck without creatures and such, but they're not the most common case. Sometimes you change one card for another with the same function (swapping Terror for Diabolic edict against a black deck), that's easy too. But what do you take out when you need grave hate against a deck with no obvious bad cards in your own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Focus on &lt;strong&gt;what cards will make you win the game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really helps to know your deck well when you're going to sideboard. What cards are the core of your game plan. How many creatures/disruption cards/mana sources/sacrifice outlets/etc. do you optimally want? And how many can your deck still manage to play well with. How is your mana curve? Can you manage that 4-cost spell that's better or do you need the cheap one. Make sure not to focus too much on hampering you opponents game plan so that you ruin your own!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what cards you decide on, &lt;strong&gt;don't forget to playtest!&lt;/strong&gt; That's what really shows you how the deck plays after you've sideboarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tip:&lt;/em&gt; A common test strategy when you don't know which of 2/3 cards you want to bring in is to play them as split-cards when you playtest. You get to chose which one you play during the game and after a few games you have a good idea of what you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="30008" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T19:50:30.153" LastActivityDate="2021-12-15T19:50:30.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-20T14:52:12.040" Score="5" ViewCount="12527" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing cribbage for a greater portion of my lifetime, and until recently I haven't really played any games where the rules and customs varied much from what I was taught by my grandfather.  Every online reference I've read, and electronic version of the game, has generally agreed with my understanding of how cribbage is played and scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it was a strange moment when I was playing against an uncle from the other side of my family and found that he expected the scoring of &quot;his nobs&quot; and &quot;his heels&quot; to be opposite of what I'd learned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By common rules, &quot;his nobs&quot; refers to when any player holds a Jack in his hand which has the same suit as the starter card.  &quot;His heels&quot; is awarded to the dealer when the starter card itself is a Jack.  Both my uncle and I agree on this.  What we disagree on is the value of each.  I (and, it seems, most of the rest of the world's cribbage players) understand &quot;his nobs&quot; to be valued at one point, and &quot;his heels&quot; at two - my uncle believes the reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine he's probably been playing cribbage for longer than I've been alive, so this has me wondering:  Is this a common variant in cribbage rules?  Are there others like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T22:57:01.023" Title="Variations in scoring &quot;his nobs&quot; and &quot;his heels&quot;" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7671" CreationDate="2012-06-20T15:16:58.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a common variation that I have heard of, and research on multiple cribbage sources seems to agree that Knobs (starter hand jacks) are always 1 point and heels (or flipped/dealer jacks) are 2 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may very well be a case of a small player group misunderstanding or altering the rules. Rules for games like cribbage can often be changed in the same way that playing a game of &quot;telephone&quot; or telling a story by word-of mouth can change the original wording in subtle or not-so-subtle ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T15:16:58.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7675" CreationDate="2012-06-20T15:17:23.357" Score="6" ViewCount="33577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently begun memorizing totals of common multi-run combinations to help score cribbage hands.  I've seen some others do this as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short-Hand Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC 2H 3H | 6D&lt;/code&gt; - A double-run of three for eight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC 2H 3H | 4D&lt;/code&gt; - A double-run of four for ten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC 2H 3H | 3D&lt;/code&gt; - A double-double-run for sixteen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC AD 2H | 3D&lt;/code&gt; - A triple-run for fifteen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The alternative methods of counting these hands can be rather long and cumbersome, and can add to what might already be a rather complex hand if there's also fifteens involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long-Hand Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC 2H 3H | 6D&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A run of three for three, a run of three for six, and a pair makes eight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two runs of three for six, and a pair makes eight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC 2H 3H | 4D&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A run of four for four, a run of four for eight, and a pair makes ten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two runs of four for eight, and a pair makes ten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC 2H 3H | 3D&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A run of three for three, a run of three for six, a run of three for nine, a run of three for twelve, a pair for fourteen, and a pair make sixteen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four runs of three for twelve, and two pairs make sixteen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;AS AC AD 2H | 3D&lt;/code&gt; &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A run of three for three, a run of three for six, a run of three for nine, a pair for eleven, a pair for thirteen, and a pair makes fifteen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three runs of three for nine, and trips make fifteen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nightmare Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;7S 7C 7H 8D | 9C&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really Long:  Fifteen two, fifteen four, fifteen six, a run of three for nine, a run of three for twelve, a run of three for fifteen, a pair for seventeen, a pair for nineteen, and a pair makes twenty-one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhat Short:  Fifteen two, fifteen four, fifteen six, three runs of three for fifteen, and trips make twenty-one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Short-Hand:  Three fifteens for six, and a triple-run makes twenty-one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a commonly accepted method to use the above short-hand combinations to announce your score?  Are there any tournament rules for or against this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T16:41:29.947" Title="Counting multi-runs in cribbage" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7673" CreationDate="2012-06-20T15:44:17.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be trite, but &lt;em&gt;the score is the score!&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Announcing point contributions from the various categories (runs, pairs, same suit, correct Jack, etc.) should suffice. Note: this is what you have called &quot;shorthand&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this all depends on the level of play. If I'm teaching the game to a new player, I would go as far as to count (the first example) as &quot;one, two, three&quot; (pause), &quot;four, five, six... and a pair of Aces is eight&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament, players should know that pairs/trips/quads are worth 2/6/12, runs are calculated as (length of run) times (multiplicities of each rank involved), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T15:44:17.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7673" CreationDate="2012-06-20T16:41:29.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the American Cribbage Congress rules there is no specification as to HOW you score your hand but the score must be said in a way that is understood by your opponent and that they accept the total. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule9.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule9.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Rule 9.2. Order Of Counting&#xA;&#xA;The counting and pegging of the hands and crib shall be done in the following sequence. &#xA;Each step must be completed before the next is started.&#xA;&#xA;a. The pone shall count his or her hand first, announcing the total, and peg the score. &#xA;Pone shall leave cards face up until any claim or overpegging is resolved or until the &#xA;dealer indicates acceptance of the pone's pegging by counting his or her hand.&#xA;&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This continues on for each of the phases of the count with the dealer accepting the pone and the pone accepting the dealer thru the hand and the crib separately. So as long as your opponent understands your &quot;shorthand&quot; then it should be acceptable play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-06-20T16:41:29.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7892" CreationDate="2012-06-20T16:50:53.567" Score="6" ViewCount="1203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Last Will with 2-4 other friends a few times.&#xA;One friend consistently wins.  He never buys any property and just plays event cards, goes to the theatre and plays non property cards in his play areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I buy my houses when the market is high, trash them and sell low successfully but he still ends up winning.&#xA;Is it unbalanced?  Have I missed some errata?  Are we doing it wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2932" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T19:04:32.930" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T19:04:32.930" Title="In Last Will is property purchasing broken?" Tags="|last-will|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7678" CreationDate="2012-06-20T22:06:15.400" Score="6" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play bridge casually and mostly have learned from other players (and occasionally from online resources). While playing recently another player suggested that I was counting my hand's points incorrectly and the justification was something I've never heard before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand I was holding had 13 high-card points and a doubleton consisting of QJ. After my hand was revealed (I was dummy) we discussed the point-count of my hand and one player suggested that I should have only counted it as 11 points because the 1 point for the doubleton replaced the three points for the honors in that suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common point-counting technique and, if so, what is it's utility?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T20:41:12.987" Title="Doubleton Negating High-Card Points" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:12:44.430" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of that method.  I don't think it's very common, nor do I think it's sensible.  A more common and better variant is to not count both distribution and high card points for a suit unless the honor is an A (for a singleton or doubleton) or a K (for a doubleton).  Thus, QJ doubleton would be worth 3 points but not 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rationale for the rule that was suggested is no doubt that your honors are unprotected -- if the opponents play AK, your honors drop.  The reason this is wrong is that if you partner has at least one of the A, the K, or the 10 (which happens more than 2/3 of the time), your QJ doubleton becomes valuable again.  Even if partner is missing all those cards, you still have a decent chance of winning a trick with one of your honors provided you don't end up dummy, because the opponents will have to guess how to play the suit.  Another way to see that it is wrong to value the holding at 1 point is that QJ doubleton is clearly much better than xx doubleton, which would also be worth 1 point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more advanced answer is that the value of this holding depends strongly on what partner has and to a lesser extent on the contract.  Therefore, you should re-evaluate your hand during the bidding as you get more information about your partner's hand and the opponent's hands.  For instance, if partner seems to be reasonably strong in this suit, your QJ doubleton is probably valuable -- it could be worth 2 or even more tricks.  On the other hand, if your LHO seems to have all the cards in the suit, your QJ doubleton may only be valuable for the fact that it is a doubleton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T15:12:44.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:31:46.270" Score="4" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6915/what-does-protection-from-quality-do&quot;&gt;What does protection from [quality] do?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was playing a match with a friend where I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElite%20Inquisitor%5d&quot;&gt;Elite Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt; on the field against his 3 zombies. Is he able to declare his zombies as blockers even though Elite Inquisitor has &quot;protection&quot; from zombies?  If he can[declare them as blockers] does protection mean that just no damage is dealt by that creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2975" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T21:13:01.393" Title="What does protection mean?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2012-09-29T00:21:55.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6915" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:43:49.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zombies cannot be declared as blockers against a creature with Protection from Zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120601.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15f Attacking creatures with protection can't be blocked by creatures that have the stated quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Zombies somehow deal damage to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elite%20Inquisitor&quot;&gt;Elite Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt;, like with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulvenwald%20Tracker&quot;&gt;Ulvenwald Tracker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15e Any damage that would be dealt by sources that have the stated quality to a permanent or player with protection is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See Section 702.15 for more information about Protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T15:43:49.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6915" CreationDate="2012-06-21T15:51:59.830" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protection is a rather busy keyword. The easiest way to remember it is the mnemonic &lt;strong&gt;&quot;DEBT&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6917/1910&quot;&gt;A permanent or player with protection from a quality cannot be&lt;/a&gt;: (from &lt;strong&gt;user1873&lt;/strong&gt;'s answer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; amaged, by sources with that quality (the damage is prevented).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; nchanted / &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; quipped / Fortified, by cards with that quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; locked, by creatures with that quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; argeted, by spells or abilities from sources with that quality.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in your example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElite%20Inquisitor%5d&quot;&gt;Elite Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt; cannot be blocked by Zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elite Inquisitor can, however, block Zombies normally. If a Zombie would deal combat damage to him, it is prevented and he takes no damage instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-12-01T01:36:42.707" LastActivityDate="2018-12-01T01:36:42.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7657" CreationDate="2012-06-21T17:27:40.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/article/ah20040227b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Countdown to Invasion&lt;/a&gt;' article on the Wizards of the Coast website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;2. The North Atlantic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The United States starts with a pair of fully loadable transports on turn 1. Where can they offload? Just two territories in the Eastern hemisphere, really. They can make it to the United Kingdom and Africa in one move, either preparing for D-Day or launching Operation Torch. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Because they can't motor back and forth from Washington to Normandy (what many longtime players call the &quot;shuck-shuck&quot;), they must coordinate with their allies.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was also an interesting '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/index.php?topic=1931.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to prevent Shuck Shuck?&lt;/a&gt;' forum discussion about combating the 'shuck-shuck' strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dave (dmw71)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2983" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T17:27:40.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7666" CreationDate="2012-06-21T20:15:19.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my humble experience I have seen two fundamentally distinct sideboarding strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;sideboard made with targeted cards&lt;/strong&gt;, for example targeting a particular color or a particular style of playing (mill, discard, land destruction, aggro, etc.) in order to trouble the opponent and disrupt his/her strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall basis of this strategy is &lt;strong&gt;adaptation&lt;/strong&gt; after you have seen the opponent's deck on the first match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;sideboard made with alternate-strategy cards&lt;/strong&gt;, for example you play the first match with a discard deck, then on the second match (when your opponent adds the cards that disrupt discard decks from his/her sideboard), you turn your deck in a land-destruction deck and make a big part of the opponent's deck useless. If you ever get to play the third match, you can decide which &quot;face&quot; you want to present, leaving your opponent guessing and, probably mixing up the options, making both of them less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall basis of this strategy is &lt;strong&gt;catching the opponent off-guard&lt;/strong&gt;, a more aggressive approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think that option 2 is funnier and shows more personality/flamboyance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastActivityDate="2012-06-21T20:15:19.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6175" CreationDate="2012-06-21T23:16:46.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Mandarin is also available, buying Mandarin/Mint with you turns of 5 buy is sometimes worth it, as the +3coins from the Mandarin mean you can easily get a silver and start minting silver and gold (or other special treasures)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now dark ages is out there is another good Mint Combo, Mint/Squire. Squire gets you cash and a silver, which is better than any other 2 cost card when you have only 2 coppers left in your deck! If there is a trasher and a good attack card as well then its even better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T16:01:21.720" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T16:01:21.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7686" CreationDate="2012-06-22T06:12:35.850" Score="5" ViewCount="30643" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Gin Rummy, what happens when one knocks but the opponent has a lower or equal deadwood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. I knock placing everything but a 6. My opponent was able to place everything but a 4.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;So, my opponent had a lesser amount of points she couldn't place than I, but I knocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does one do regarding points when this happens?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Does she get the difference, or does no-one get points?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or does she get points like she would if she had successfully gotten a Gin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2986" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2022-05-15T09:52:04.623" LastActivityDate="2022-05-15T09:52:04.623" Title="In Gin Rummy, what happens when one knocks but the opponent has a lower or equal deadwood?" Tags="|scoring|gin-rummy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7685" CreationDate="2012-06-22T06:18:46.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent &lt;strong&gt;Undercut&lt;/strong&gt; you and scores usually 25 points plus the difference between your score and theirs (+2 in your case). Actually, unless you &lt;strong&gt;knockout&lt;/strong&gt; on gin (zero points), if your opponent ties your score you are undercut. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/ginrummy.html#scoring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pagat.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the knocker did not go gin, and the counts are equal, or the knocker's count is greater than that of the opponent, the knocker has been undercut. In this case the knocker's opponent scores the difference between the counts plus a 10 point bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-03-04T16:13:17.447" LastActivityDate="2020-03-04T16:13:17.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7710" CreationDate="2012-06-22T14:24:08.260" Score="4" ViewCount="1006" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I was playing said game, and I draw Brasilia as my starting investment. While I don't feel I played particularly well, I did find it harder than the others to expand my empire. Further more, they told me that the last time someone had had Brasilia they also suffered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this common in games? And if so how can I turn Brasilia's weaknesses into my strengths?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T20:45:32.657" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T20:45:32.657" Title="Is Brasilia a weak starting investment in Imperial 2030?" Tags="|imperial-2030|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-23T02:07:53.603" Score="8" ViewCount="15999" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you choose 3 destination tickets on your turn, what is the rule in regards to if you need to keep 1, 2, or 3? It seems that you must decide before your next turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toward the end of the game, players may want to discard destination tickets. is this allowed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone has any copy of the rules or rules on hand to clarify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2989" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T21:27:59.233" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T10:51:50.807" Title="Discarding Destination Tickets in Ticket to Ride" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7688" CreationDate="2012-06-23T02:47:31.273" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may keep 1, 2, or all 3 destination tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must make your decision before the beginning of the next players turn (not before your next turn as you stated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only two ways you may discard destination tickets are during your beginning of game ticket selection (you must keep at least two) and when using the Draw 3 Tickets as your action for the turn (you must keep at least one). For Draw 3 Tickets, you can only discard the tickets you drew this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/7201-T2R-Rules-EN-2019.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Days of Wonder&lt;/a&gt; website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;each player taking one turn at a time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-04-12T13:47:06.603" LastActivityDate="2020-04-12T13:47:06.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7692" CreationDate="2012-06-23T08:21:20.400" Score="5" ViewCount="6439" Body="&lt;p&gt;In AAA, if you are defending against a sea attack, and you are defending with an aircraft carrier, do the airplanes on the carrier contribute to the battle or are they considered cargo? The rulebook doesn't seem to define a specific rule for this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T00:30:29.240" Title="Are airplanes involved in defense if they are on an aircraft carrier?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2012-06-23T11:34:42.523" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm still rather new at Set (Very new in fact), but I'm sufficiently annoyed at not already being good at it that I've been doing my best to figure out how to play well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My observation is that advanced set players seem to find it very hard to get into the mindset of beginning set players because they've acquired so much intuition about the game that they don't adopt a conscious strategy. This is where advice like &quot;You just need to learn to see the patterns&quot; comes from. It's almost certainly the right way to play, but it's not very useful advice when you're trying to get to grips with it and want an explicit strategy to learn from!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, speaking as someone who is not yet at that stage, here is roughly the strategy I seem to be adopting. It's definitely far from optimal, and it's more of a crutch to get me into pure pattern matching mode, but it works tolerably well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Observation: Given any two Set cards there is exactly one other card with which they form a set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proof: Look at each of the characteristics. If they're the same, then the third card has that same characteristic too. If they're different then the third card has the single instance of that characteristic they don't have (e.g. if they're green and purple then it must be red). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to work out this third card quickly (and there's no simple way to do that other than practice) seems to be very useful. Part of why it's useful is that when new cards are laid down if you can quickly work out what cards they would form sets with (there will be six such cards for every set of 3 laid down) you can go &quot;Oh! That's already on the board. Set!&quot; immediately (it's useful to have a good memory of what's already on the board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call the approach &quot;Pick two cards, see if their third is on the board&quot; pair matching. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, using that as the only part of your strategy would be pretty slow. Even that's not useless though. If you find yourself stuck it's not completely crazy to just start picking pairs of cards at random, and do pair matching to them. It's a good way to spot hard to notice sets, but it's definitely not the most efficient strategy writ large. Call this strategy A. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is roughly what I do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: Identify some classes of Set that are impossible. I find a good starting point here is to look within numbers: Is it possible that there is a set with only 3, is there a set with only 2, is there a set with only 1? There's no reason you have to start with numbers - all the characteristics are logically interchangeable - I just find this one easier to do visually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2: If you've found a characteristic which you can keep constant (like number) and it looks like there might be a set in there, adopt strategy A on it for a bit and see if you find anything. If you find something the board has changed, go back to Step 1. If not, go through to step 3 - either giving up and looking at the whole board again or focusing it on this specific set of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3: If you haven't found any sets so far, you can probably now identify some &quot;Key cards&quot;. For example if you've determined that all of a characteristic has to be different, you can pick the value which appears least often. So if you're looking for sets where the quantity is different for each and there's only a single 1 card on the board you know that this card has to appear in all the sets you're looking for. Similarly if there are only two one of these cards has to be in each set. Pick a key card, ideally based on most likely to appear, but at random is fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4: You now have your key card. Start looking for cards to pair with this and pair match on them. Initially your search will be random but you're very likely to start ruling out classes of things. Like &quot;This obviously can't be paired with anything filled because it's empty and there are no hashes on the board&quot;. Use that to direct your search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 5: If you're still stuck, try and go back an identify another characteristic you could use. e.g. see if you might be able to find one where the characteristic is the same where you were looking for it different, or swap to another value of it. Repeat from step 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that's about it. Sorry, I feel like this was a very opaque description of what I do, but hopefully some of it was useful. Feel free to ask any questions and I'll try to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2990" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T11:34:42.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7690" CreationDate="2012-06-23T12:49:23.233" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The air units that are on an aircraft carrier participate in the defense, they are not considered cargo. On page 20 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis2004.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Order of Play&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Air Units:&lt;/strong&gt; A given air unit may participate in the sea combat or the land combat portion of the amphibious assault; it may not do both. The attacking player must declare the air units involved in the land and sea combats and cannot change their assignments later. Attacking air units, whether involved in the sea or land combat, may retreat&#xA;according to the normal rules. &lt;strong&gt;Defending fighters on aircraft carriers can defend only in the sea combat.&lt;/strong&gt; Defending air units in a territory can defend only in the land combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the Appendix (page 30) under &lt;strong&gt;Aircraft Carrier&lt;/strong&gt;, or (page 27) under &lt;strong&gt;Fighter&lt;/strong&gt; the example image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sinking of a Defending Carrier: The attacking Japanese submarine sinks the U.K. carrier, then submerges after the &lt;strong&gt;defenders&lt;/strong&gt; Fire. Both the U.S. and U.K. Fighters can Fly 1 space to safety. They can land at New Zealand (a friendly territory), or on the U.S. carrier (a friendly carrier). Otherwise they are destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fighter Defense: Whenever a carrier is attacked, its fighters (even those belonging to friendly powers) are considered to be defending in the air and can be chosen as casualties rather than the carrier. (However, a fighter can’t be chosen as a casualty from a submarine hit, because submarines can attack only sea units. See Submarines, on page 32.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/axis&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If my fighters are on an ally's carrier, when do they move and fight?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your fighters move along with the carrier when it moves. They can't fly out to attack on your ally's turn, &lt;strong&gt;but they fight normally if the carrier's sea zone is attacked&lt;/strong&gt;. If the carrier moves into an enemy sea zone to attack, however, your fighters can't be part of the attack but they can be taken as losses, if you agree to sacrifice them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T12:49:23.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7694" CreationDate="2012-06-23T21:44:53.613" Score="3" ViewCount="1321" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I had the following battle: I had 3 fighters and 5 infantry, and he had 3 infantry. At the end of the battle, all of my infantry got destroyed and all I had left was the 3 fighters. He lost all of his infantry. He said I couldn't take the territory because I didn't have any land units. I started the battle with land units but at the end of the battle, I didn't have any. What is the rule on this specific situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-06-24T16:52:29.713" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T20:35:56.907" Title="Can I still capture a territory if I lose all my land units in combat?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2012-06-23T22:00:13.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook clearly covers this situation. On page 17 under Step 8: Capture Territory&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you win a combat as the attacker in a territory, and you have one or more surviving land units there, you take control of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sea units cannot take control of a territory....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air units can never capture a territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-23T22:00:13.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7697" CreationDate="2012-06-24T16:51:26.843" Score="15" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a game about traveling the world and I stumbled across one big problem, so I hoped you could give me some good suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my game players can choose to which cities they want to go on the map in a limited radius. I thought I could just draw lines from each city to each destination, but I ended up with a really confusing map. My next idea was to write down all destinations where a player can go from a given city, but this approach wasn't illustrative enough so players couldn't think ahead where to move next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are your suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2991" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-06-25T11:53:07.693" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T18:08:30.813" Title="How can I clearly detail all possible destinations from every point of the map in my game?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-24T21:04:07.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the problem is that the connections are not just to the nearest neighbours. graphs/networks can get pretty messy pretty quickly in these sort of circumstances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd limit the connections to just the nearest neighbours but maybe allow the player to travel to more than just the next node, assuming this can be made to work with the rest of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T21:04:07.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-24T21:11:13.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it a fixed distance on the map? Like you can travel to any city within 500 miles of your current location? You can &lt;strong&gt;use a plastic or cardboard &quot;template&quot; similar to the ones in miniatures games&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; basically a cutout that you overlay on the map, and anything inside it is &quot;close enough&quot; for travel. This has some drawbacks, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not knowing where you can move without measuring each move causes confusion and lost time when players try to plan more than one move ahead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving a big disk around the game board is likely to knock over pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing more about your game, though, my first impulse is to ask: &lt;strong&gt;do you need the complexity here&lt;/strong&gt;? If the range of possible moves is too complex to represent graphically, maybe it's too complex to easily follow along in play. Maybe there are too many nodes in the graph. Maybe a more abstractly representational game board will be easier to understand (think about subway maps vs. street maps)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the decisions players make are usually going to be obvious &amp;mdash; if they're using their full movement every turn, for instance &amp;mdash; you should consider simplifying away the waypoints no one is going to want to visit anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T21:11:13.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6306" CreationDate="2012-06-24T22:31:21.707" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work at all... Ratchet Bomb will not kill the transformers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a flip card flips to it's alternate side, it does NOT become a brand new object. It gains the abilities and stats from the second side, but keeps it's converted mana cost from the face side of the card, as well as it's color, author, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ratchet bomb would not instantly kill a flipped werewolf. I'm pretty sure they thought that through, as who the hell would want to play a deck that can be countered by one card so harshly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card's flip side keeps it converted Mana cost, color, author, etc. when it flips from it's front side. You're good. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;709.1c A flip card's color, mana cost, expansion symbol, illustration credit, and legal text don't change if the permanent is flipped. Also, any changes to it by external effects will still apply. &amp;lt;--- From the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2992" LastActivityDate="2012-06-24T22:31:21.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-25T00:00:13.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Provide your players with a thin ruler that shows (is the length of) the allowed distance to be traveled. You could also put markings on the ruler to allow for different movement radii.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T00:00:13.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7701" CreationDate="2012-06-25T03:41:57.117" Score="14" ViewCount="1661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the following setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cXR7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Interrupting settlement.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this board state, can blue move any of his ships? He was previously unable to, then white built the circled settlement, breaking blue's trade route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules in seafarers say that a ship can be moved only if it doesn't connect two cities and it is not in the middle of a line of ships. Since a settlement interrupts a longest road, does it also count as breaking the above sea route into two disjoint lines of ships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NB Blue's settlement on the right was an original, the blue settlement on the left was placed after being reached with the shown sea route.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2566" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T11:25:26.893" Title="Can an interrupting settlement allow opponents to move previously unmovable ships?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7700" CreationDate="2012-06-25T05:58:54.227" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you may not move it, your ship is not open. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/23-seafarers/1000-ships-when-is-a-ship-open.html&quot;&gt;official site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A ship is “open” when it is located at the end of a ship route. As soon as a ship route connects two settlements, the ship route is considered as closed. A ship in a closed ship route can not be moved. This rule also applies if another player builds a settlement on the intersection of your closed ship route. In this case, the continuous road is considered as interrupted in terms of being counted towards the Longest Road; however, the two settlements of the ship route are still connected, meaning that the ship route remains closed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T05:58:54.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7702" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-25T09:53:48.477" Score="4" ViewCount="2614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a link from a 2008 blog, but this fails now &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2993" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T01:28:18.040" Title="Where can I find a spanish language copy of the rules of Settlers of Catan." Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7702" CreationDate="2012-06-25T12:04:22.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would this would be of any use to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yoda.arachsys.com/siedler/siedler_espanol.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yoda.arachsys.com/siedler/siedler_espanol.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that, this looks pretty thorough:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/30216/catan-todo-en-uno-reglas-y-mapas-para-todas-las-ve&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/30216/catan-todo-en-uno-reglas-y-mapas-para-todas-las-ve&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T12:04:22.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4586" CreationDate="2012-06-25T12:31:46.850" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I total agree with what everyone has said and also want to add a couple more things.  Once you have decided on your 'main' cards (1,2 or 3) to build your deck around, have 2, 3 or 4 of those cards in your deck.  The same thing goes with your supporting cards, I may not put 4 of the same support card because you want them to support in ANY situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, I don't think anyone said this, Yes, the first times you play ANY deck, not pre made, is a trial and error and you may end up starting over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, in multicolour decks, I love artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2994" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T12:31:46.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-25T13:31:39.230" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest putting hexes on the map.  Players can then know how far one city is from another by counting the hexes.  As long as the numbers are small such as 4 or 5 it would not provide too much complexity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is how &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38479/railways-of-the-world&quot;&gt;Railways of the World&lt;/a&gt; solves this problem, and it works really well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of hexes over any other shape is that they remove any problems with diagonal movement.  Cities are a natural distance apart from any angle.  Counting the smallest number of hexes to get from one stop to another is always accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T13:31:39.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-25T16:34:27.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the complexity of your map, you might be able to actually print faint circles directly on it, rather than lines to all of the locations within the circles. (But I personally prefer Hyppy's solution to that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T16:34:27.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-25T17:13:18.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would consider using a schematic map as opposed to a realistic map. Read up on the London Tube Map for an idea of how you could go. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tube_map&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tube_map&lt;/a&gt; This way it should free you to place valid travel points closer to each other without having to deal with the realism of a &quot;map&quot; because accuracy is probably not as critical for game play. A good example of this in games is a Ticket To Ride map. Even tho the design of the board looks like a map of the USA it is actually a schematic map with city destinations close to their actual locations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T17:13:18.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7709" CreationDate="2012-06-25T17:58:45.893" Score="18" ViewCount="2066" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a ruling on this by a L2 Judge at a TCG event in San Diego 2 weeks ago. I believe his ruling was wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218050&quot;&gt;Praetor's Grasp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mana Cost:&lt;/strong&gt; 1BB&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Types:&lt;/strong&gt; Sorcery&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Card Text:&lt;/strong&gt; Search target opponent's library for a card and exile it face down. Then that player shuffles his or her library. You may look at and play that card for as long as it remains exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I searched the opponent's library and pulled a Snapcaster Mage. The opponent asked if he could look through his library to determine what card was taken. I told him he could not, card doesn't say so and it violates the spirit of the card. The head judge was called and ruling was issued that a shuffle takes place in a hidden zone and that while cards are in a hidden zone they may be looked at by the owner as long as it doesn't take too much time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the RTFC rules don't say anything about the opponent searching his deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2599" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T22:20:31.143" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T22:20:31.143" Title="Prateor's Grasp - Can Opponent Determine Taken Card Before Shuffle" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7708" CreationDate="2012-06-25T18:14:16.580" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The ruling was sorely mistaken.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;406 Exile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;406.3 Exiled cards are, by default, kept face up and may be examined by any player at any time. &lt;strong&gt;Cards “exiled face down” can’t be examined by any player except when instructions allow it.&lt;/strong&gt; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &amp;quot;spirit of the card&amp;quot; argument is very much relevant, as it would make the &amp;quot;exile face down&amp;quot; bit meaningless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your opponent looking through his library: Nope, absolutely not. A library is a &lt;em&gt;hidden zone&lt;/em&gt; that may also not be looked through unless an effect allows one to. This is very basic stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;401 Library&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;401.2. Each library must be kept in a single face-down pile. Players can’t look at or change the order of cards in a library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your judge really said exactly that &amp;quot;a player may look at cards in one of his hidden zones as long as it doesn't take too much time&amp;quot;, taken literally, would totally uproot the purpose of hidden zones, as it would allow me to, oh I don't know, &lt;strong&gt;look at the top 5 cards of my friggin' library&lt;/strong&gt;, because, after all, that wouldn't take long, would it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ludicrous. People failing such basic concepts should not be judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I understand where the judge is coming from. While your opponent shuffles, I guess it's ok for him to have a quick peek at his library, because he doesn't gain any information he is not privileged to. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, in this concrete situation, with an unknown card exiled, it still isn't ok, because it would give him an opportunity to circumvent 406.3 and part of the Praetor's Grasp effect. So you had every right to demand enforcement of 401.2 to the letter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T19:06:39.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7687" CreationDate="2012-06-25T18:34:56.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to link below, some people think that Brazil is a good place to start investments (in a poll with 26 votes titled &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpggeek.com/geeklist/66752/round-1-top-100-relegationpromotion-battle-poll-c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;And where do you put your money in the future?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, 50% people choose Brazil). Joe Wyka user thinks Brazil is well positoned on board...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpggeek.com/geeklist/68428/berkeley-board-gamers-games-played-tuesday-june-7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rpggeek - Berkeley board gamers games played tuesday june 7 2011 - Imperial 2030&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpggeek.com/geeklist/66853/item/1659970#item1659970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rpggeek - Best new boardgames - Imperial 2030&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quote from there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]This was a weird game. I don't quite remember how things started out,&#xA;  but Adam was trying for a US/Brazil combo, and the rest of us were&#xA;  kinda spread around. For the first half of the game things went pretty&#xA;  slowly, but we all had a decent cash flow - countries weren't taxing&#xA;  for very much, but just enough that we were able to reinvest, and the&#xA;  countries were fairly balanced. India was looking good but fragile for&#xA;  a while, everyone was in Brazil, which was doing well (as usual) [...]&#xA;  Eventually though after a series&#xA;  of close Investor actions everyone except me had a big wad of cash,&#xA;  most of which ended up in Brazil. India and Brazil started moving up&#xA;  the power track fairly quickly (due to cross investments by Charles&#xA;  and Garrett, their owners), while China harassed the US (which was&#xA;  unable to slow Brazil) and Europe and Russia fought. Charles and&#xA;  Garrett had huge investments, Charles in India/Brazil, and Garrett in&#xA;  Russia/India/Brazil. I had a decent spread across all countries except&#xA;  China, and Adam was mostly in Brazil/US/Europe. The game ended&#xA;  semi-unexpectedly when Brazil jumped to tax to just make it to 25.&#xA;  Final scores:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Brazil 5x India 4x US 2x China 2x Russia 2x Europe 2x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Garrett 205 Charles 186 Deniz 144 Adam 129&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Charles hadn't ended it right then, Europe and Russia would have&#xA;  each jumped up to 4x, which would have put me in a better position but&#xA;  would also have put Garrett even further into the lead. I was hoping&#xA;  all the countries would level out at about 4x, given how slowly it was&#xA;  going (I had about ~7 interest in non-Chinese countries), but those&#xA;  who were big in India and Brazil only (Charles and Garrett) won out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1170" LastEditorUserId="1170" LastEditDate="2012-06-26T13:31:03.080" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T13:31:03.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7708" CreationDate="2012-06-25T18:49:45.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a judge; the ruling, however, seems obviously mistaken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The statement that &quot;while cards are in a hidden zone they may be looked at by the owner as long as it doesn't take too much time&quot; is emphatically not true.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards in the library are hidden from all players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;401.2. Each library must be kept in a single face-down pile. Players can’t look at or change the order of cards in a library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you search a library, the rules allow &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, the person taking the action, to look at its contents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.15a To search for a card in a zone, look at all cards in that zone (even if it's a hidden zone) and find a card that matches the given description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the comp rules does it say that you get a free peak at a hidden zone when someone else gets to look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the MTR has to say is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... players may choose to reveal their hands or any other hidden information available only to them, unless specifically prohibited by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, technically speaking, you may &lt;em&gt;choose to&lt;/em&gt; show your opponent a library as you are looking through it, but are not obligated to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-25T18:49:45.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9286" CreationDate="2012-06-26T02:59:02.060" Score="7" ViewCount="30888" Body="&lt;p&gt;They measure 63mm wide by 88mm tall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base set has 550 cards (460 White cards and 90 Black cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansion has 100 cards (80 White cards and 20 Black cards) plus 12 blank cards (8 white, 4 black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the uninitiated, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cardsagainsthumanity.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cards Against Humanity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CVS78.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cards Against Humanity&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2995" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2017-10-24T18:32:58.680" LastActivityDate="2017-10-24T18:32:58.680" Title="What card sleeves should I get for Cards Against Humanity?" Tags="|storage|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-26T03:11:30.517" Score="31" ViewCount="12198" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Dragon Shield, KMC and Ultra-Pro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pojo.com/magic/featured%20writers/dragonsden/012902.html&quot;&gt;reviews&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=10050&quot;&gt;forums&lt;/a&gt; don't seem to have a consensus on the question, &quot;Which brand is the best?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But have there been any quality control tests that show statistically one brand is more reliable than the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2995" LastEditorUserId="2995" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T21:41:18.143" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T21:35:15.737" Title="What brand of card sleeves are most reliable for Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-03-02T11:51:46.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7712" CreationDate="2012-06-26T04:16:27.753" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;None&lt;/strong&gt;, but I am betting this was a trick question. The cards dimensions are fairly close to the standard dimensions of a Magic: the Gathering card. The cheapest card sleeves you could buy are the aptly named &lt;strong&gt;penny sleeves&lt;/strong&gt;. These sleeves will run you on average $0.01 US. Since Cards Against Humanity runs 550 cards in the base set, you would be spending $5.50 to sleeve the cards, slightly over 20% the cost of buying a complete replacement of the entire game. I suppose if you buy online, and sufficient quantity, you might be able to reduce the cost of the sleeves by 20%-30%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sleeving will increase the thickness, so it will not fit in the original box. There are other issues with sleeving. Sleeves of any sort make shuffling more difficult. Penny sleeves are also notoriously slippery because they don't have textured backs (Like Dragon Shield or other high quality sleeves). High quality sleeves would cost you more than the original game itself to sleeve. Games are meant to be played, and this game wouldn't suffer much from having marked cards. As an Apples-to-Apples clone, the only danger of marked cards is that the judge might know which card you or another player through in the pot. This problem can be eliminated by having the judge close his eyes, look away, and having someone else shuffle the cards before giving them to the judge (we usually do this anyway to prevent the top card being the card from the person who decided last).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend against sleeving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T15:58:31.317" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T15:58:31.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-26T06:19:08.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two suggestions depending on your scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If actual linear geographical distance between the cities isn't important, then you can take your graph of connected cities and connect them by different modes of transportation, so small boats for rivers, roads for cars, train tracks, airports, etc.  You can give each city different backgrounds and icons saying which is which and just tell the player they can only move between cities with the same icon.  (This can also be abstractly represented with colors of numbers, only going between cities with a matching color or number)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If geographical realism is important (As it would be if you're trying to depict, say, the whole actual earth) then I would consider that a messy map is indicative of a game design problem, namely, that there are too many choices for the player.  Therefore, I would restrict their choices using an additional game mechanic.  Depending on your game's genre you could have something like Scheduled caravans or specific source-&gt;destination plane tickets, printed on cards, which the users draws and them must choose between.  You can divide the board into regions, and have a separate pile for each region, thus limited the choices of travel to your desired radius, but also allowing overlaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T06:19:08.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7721" CreationDate="2012-06-26T09:33:33.603" Score="16" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen that in the diagram below, the two black stones can connect by attaching to the white stone, but I can't work out the sequence. How does black play to connect her stones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:23:02.040" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:23:02.040" Title="Three-space jump on third line: how to connect?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7716" CreationDate="2012-06-26T10:35:28.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you can't completely connect.  That's why the two-space extension or three space knight's move are more common on the third line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching on top fails:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 4 6 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 5 1 O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 2 3 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attaching underneath gets closer, but you still have two cutting points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 7 6 4 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 5 O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 3 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the three-space knight's move, it's easier to stay connected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 6 4 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O 1 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 3 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . B . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White can't play 6 at 7 because Black at 6 is atari, and then two stones will be captured.  This depends on what is nearby, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white invades on the third line, you stay more or less connected.  White usually has to worry about his stones, so you have time to fix up one of your cutting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 5 . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 2 4 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . B 6 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T10:35:28.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2012-06-26T14:26:26.117" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not seen any independent quality assurance tests comparing the various sleeves, and I sincerely doubt there is a comprehensive one to be found. It's probably not economical for anyone involved, since QA comparisons like that can be quite expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From anecdotal evidence at my local shop, which has ~80 player FNMs every week, most players seem to agree agree that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;KMC sleeves (matte or normal) are generally the most durable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dragon Shield will start split during shuffling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultra-Pro Pro-Matte will become dirty fairly quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the three most popular sleeve types at the shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T14:26:26.117" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2012-06-26T14:37:58.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't seen any QC tests but I have been using both over the past year. I have every color of Dragon Shields (except Brown and Pink) and I have only had an issue with 1 set (some tearing on about 10 sleeves). I double sleeve my cards using Perfect Fits on the inside and I riffle shuffle. that puts a ton of stress on the sleeves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultra Pros are good, not as thick as Dragon Shields, but I haven't had an issue with them. However, I've seen many of an opponent tear an Ultra Pro midgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always put it to my friends this way... In the lifetime of a box of sleeves you can buy one box of Dragon Shields or 3 boxes of something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2599" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T14:37:58.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7722" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:12:52.160" Score="5" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;traditional&quot; handicap, when there is a ranking difference of 1, black plays first and there is no komi (&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?ProperHandicap&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt; uses this term). But if you play without komi anyway, this is no handicap. In the days before komi, how was the 1-stone handicap handled? Or did the weaker player just take black, and handicap started at two stones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T06:41:30.227" Title="Traditional 1-stone handicap before komi" Tags="|go|history|handicap|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7716" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:42:20.503" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3 space extension is vaguely connected, but compared to the more solid 2 space extension, it can be split a lot easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . a O b . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent invades and there are no other relevant circumstances (nearby stones of either player), the moves to think about are a and b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Attach on top&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 3 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black attaches on top and white plays bad shape at 2 (bumping her head), black will nobi at 3 and a short fight will ensue, however, black should be able to stay connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 3 5 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 4 X O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead, white will hane at 1. If black cuts at 2, white 3 is the only move (anything else dies). Next, black could think about extending at 4, allowing white to connect at 5. The marked black stone is damaged and black is split. Also, white 1 is not captured yet. This should be very good for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 4 a . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 X O 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a better idea to counter-atari at 2, forcing white to capture. Next, black usually connects solidly at 4, sometimes at a, or plays tenuki. If white plays 3 at 4, black happily connects solidly at a and white still has to capture at 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . O . O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this result, black is connected and pretty strong, but white got a good shape in the center. Usually, this is considered slightly bad for black. On the other hand, it may be the best way to try to get this result, if white is strong nearby and black would really hate to be split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O 2 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . O a O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O X 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black tenukis, white can start a ko, so black should be careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 O 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 2 . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to play at 3 directly, but this leaves more options to white than the way previously shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Attach below&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attachment below is far more common. The goal is not to connect, but to get a good result, usually outside influence. White naturally hanes. Which side to hane on depends on the environment, especially nearby corners. This is a very large topic so I won't go into it, just keep in mind that hoshi stones in the corner allow for easy invasions, thus it is more difficult to attack very strongly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 4 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing back at 3 leads to large damage to the marked stone and is rarely a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 1 O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . a O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practically always, black will cut at 1 and white will capture the single stone at 2 (very rarely white will nobi to a instead, this is a special plan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 O X 2 |&#xA;$$ . . . . . a 3 O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, black 1 is the only move. If white captures at 2, black will probably play at 3 or at 3 and white is in trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X b . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 3 2 O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 4 X a . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, white will extend to 2 and black must cover at 3. Depending on the board white might crawl at a or b, allowing black to fix his outside. But far more often, white will cut at 4, splitting the single stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O X a . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This resulting shape massively depends on nearby corners, and it's difficult to tell the best variation without a complete board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned earlier, black will use the aji in the position (mainly the atari at a) to either fix his outside and get thick, or to jump down the side, usually into a corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 4 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 8 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 0 5 6 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 9 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 , . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common situation featuring a kosumi in the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X O X 5 |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 2 1 O 7 |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 3 X 4 6 |&#xA;$$ . . . . O . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black sacrifices more stones by playing 4 and 6...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . b |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X 3 a |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X O . O |&#xA;$$ . . . . . X O O O |&#xA;$$ . . . 5 1 O X X X |&#xA;$$ . . . . O 2 4 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... only to get to play 1 and 3 in sente (the order of 1 and 3 depends on the board, it is almost no difference). Later, a or b are sente, too. 5 finally fixes the shape, and black got a somewhat thick shape while white got a mediocre corner. This is a joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . X . . . . . , . 6 8 9 . X . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . O 4 1 7 O . a . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . b 3 2 5 0 . . . . . |&#xA;$$| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common shape that involves a hoshi corner. This time, white plays 10 and aims at attaching at a to live in the corner. The idea is to force black to crawl at b. I am not familiar with the joseki involved here so I can't tell sequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 space extension is not very solid, but if you treat it right, it is pretty flexible. Connections can usually be enforced, but it is often a better idea to sacrifice for a better result. Nearby corners play an important role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T15:42:20.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7720" CreationDate="2012-06-26T15:54:43.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking the black stones always implied a handicap, even before the invention of komi. It has been known for centuries that black had an advantage. I think the real question is how &lt;em&gt;even&lt;/em&gt; games worked before komi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, there was no way to get actually even games. The main workaround I could think of would be repeated color switching. You may be be interested in the related concept of &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Jubango&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jubango&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T15:54:43.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7725" CreationDate="2012-06-26T20:08:10.000" Score="13" ViewCount="12229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been told that Wishes work differently in Commander than in normal casual Free-For-All (FFA) mtg. Do the comprehensive rules cover how wishes work in Commander? Do the rules for wishes differ from normal FFA multiplayer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T06:05:28.013" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T12:32:38.153" Title="Can I Wish for a card outside my Commander's colors?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7729" CreationDate="2012-06-26T20:20:03.470" Score="5" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people ignore weak decks in a multiplayer FFA setting. They believe that because a deck's card quality is poor that leaving that player basically unmolested, and not expending resources to remove that weak player from the game, leaves you with more resources to deal with the stronger decks at the table. Weak decks should be easier to beat when the game comes down to a duel anyway, rather than fighting another strong deck 1 vs 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any evidence that weak decks actually win more often than stronger decks played in the same multiplayer FFA setting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T01:44:53.973" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T01:44:53.973" Title="Do weak decks win a disproportionate amount of multiplayer FFA games?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7723" CreationDate="2012-06-26T20:26:31.850" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wishes are non-functional in Commander, unless your group specifically allows them and defines where they work.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comp rules define the basics of the format but mostly point you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot;&gt;mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt; for the up-to-date official definition. Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot;&gt;mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Abilities which refer to other cards owned outside the game (Wishes, Spawnsire, Research, Ring of Ma'ruf) do not function in Commander without prior agreement on their scope from the playgroup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the Rules Committee's reasoning was that using wishes in their original, casual-play way (searching your entire collection) wastes too much time in play&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;. So they used to restrict you to searching your sideboard, which is how wishes work in competitive MTG. However, Commander's sideboards are &quot;optional&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&amp;amp;t=11071&quot;&gt;Sheldon has generally come out against them&lt;/a&gt;, so the default is that wish cards don't work at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sideboards still have to follow all the normal deck-construction limitations, like in any other format; for Commander, this means you can't have break the one-of restriction or violate color identity just because a card is in the sideboard. &lt;strong&gt;Thus, if you group agrees to play with wishboards, you'll still be limited to your commander's color identity.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note also that the official sideboard size is 10 cards, not 15 like 60-card constructed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; &amp;ndash; Which is also why &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShahrazad%5d&quot;&gt;Shahrazad&lt;/a&gt; was finally banned after some time as the only Vintage-banned card legal in Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T12:32:38.153" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T12:32:38.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7723" CreationDate="2012-06-26T20:36:34.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done a search for all Commander references in the CompRules and have found nothing specific. There are several points to consider when determining this question in particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Commander is a semi-official format. It's covered in the official rules, but it has been invented and is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;maintained by regular players&lt;/a&gt;. So questions specific to the format that are not answered by the CompRules should be probably be asked and answered there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going by the rules, I would argue that Wishes work the same as in regular games: Since a Commander game is casual only, you are allowed to get any non-ante card from your collection. In sanctioned events, Wishes can only get cards from your sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going by the philosophy of the format, Wished cards should probably be restricted to cards in the Commander's color identity. But that is more a house rule, as the CompRules don't regulate that particular point.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T20:36:34.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7724" CreationDate="2012-06-26T21:48:32.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;FFA is a more luck oriented format than 1 vs 1, so of course weak decks will relatively win more than in 1 vs 1. But that doen't really mean that weak decks win more games that strong decks. Also in FFA diplomacy has an important role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all players go first for the strong opponent. There are players that go first for the weak opponents. There are players that go first for strong opponents. There are players that go against nobody and wait for the other players to spend resources fighting between themselves. There are players that go first against opponents who play control decks. There are players with strong decks that form an alliance to defeat the rest of players before fighting between themshelves. There are players with weak decks that form an alliance to defeat first the strong player on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, it depends on the personalities of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T21:48:32.437" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2012-06-26T22:30:44.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps change the rules slightly. Something like this might work (depending on the game): divide the cities into regions, allow travel to any city in the same region, and mark only the routes which go between different regions. This could cut down quite dramatically on the number of routes you need to mark, without changing the actual possible moves too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2012-06-26T22:30:44.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7724" CreationDate="2012-06-27T04:54:48.057" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There's no direct advantage to playing a weaker deck. There is, however, an advantage to &lt;em&gt;managing perceptions&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some sense, free-for-all is about always being outgunned: taken together, your opponents have more resources — more cards, more mana, more life, more time (turns) — than you do. Luckily, those resources aren't always directed against you at all times. However, as The Ferrett says, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/tf65&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Eventually, you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to be Alpha Threat to win&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; — and, when you are in that position and most of the table is gunning for you, it pays to have access to strong cards that can power you through that opposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side is that those strong cards are more likely to get you labeled as the &amp;quot;Alpha Threat&amp;quot; prematurely. The best way to mitigate this isn't playing weaker cards, it's &lt;strong&gt;good strategic timing&lt;/strong&gt;: as he continues, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/tf65&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;The lesson is that you have to time your shot at dominance perfectly. You have to wait until your opponents don't have the resources to stop you, or you have the ability to stop &lt;em&gt;them&lt;/em&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiplayer strategy writers emphasize the importance of gaming your opponents' perception to get to that point. Your card selection certainly plays a role here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if you're just defending yourself, too powerful of an early board presence might make your opponents see you as the major threat. This could be an argument for playing bad cards, but...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inversely, too little of an early presence marks you out as an easy target — some players love to take pot shots at anyone who doesn't have some blockers — or, worse yet, gets you flagged as That Guy Biding His Time Until He Can Use His Combo, at which point many players are likely to move to take you out even if you have no obvious strength, based on the fear that you could steal the game at any time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some players just love to &amp;quot;spread the love around,&amp;quot; e.g. by attacking a different player each round, largely independent of their relative standings. Moreover, lots of multiplayer cards affect all players at the table: you don't have to be &amp;quot;The Threat&amp;quot; to have your carefully-laid plans trampled by another player's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Conditioning&quot;&gt;Cabal Conditioning&lt;/a&gt;. A weaker deck may dodge opponents' direct attention but find its game grinding to a halt anyway because it can't recover from collateral damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, depending on the group, appearing weakest may be an advantage, a disadvantage, or largely irrelevant. Strategy writers often advise hiding your strength without actually showing weakness — &lt;a href=&quot;http://musevessel.wordpress.com/2011/10/28/wbm-standing-up-for-sitting-back/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;trying to keep yourself in the &amp;quot;middle of the pack&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; to avoid the undue attention that may come from being either on top or at the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the best way to dodge attention in multiplayer, particularly with relative strangers (e.g. at a game store rather than an enduring kitchen-table group) is not so much to play a deck that appears weak as a deck that seems &lt;strong&gt;linear and predictable&lt;/strong&gt;. Players tend to spend most of their energy worrying about decks that threaten to do big &amp;quot;broken&amp;quot; game-changing things, or decks whose gameplan they have yet to figure out. Thus, it pays to play a deck that can &lt;strong&gt;build up in a slow, measured way with a very &amp;quot;obvious&amp;quot; gameplan&lt;/strong&gt;, like creature-based midrange beats. Even when opponents notice your buildup, there's a bit of a tendency to dismiss it as a problem they can deal with in a couple more turns, after whatever more pressing concern is addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife often steals games this way. She develops her board with some decent creatures, goes after one or two of the weaker players while the big splashy decks fight each other, and then sticks a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=True%20Conviction&quot;&gt;True Conviction&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bellowing%20Tanglewurm&quot;&gt;Bellowing Tanglewurm&lt;/a&gt; for a game-winning alpha strike once the coast is clear. To win this way, you actually need &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/brandonisleib-022112-decktagon-on-on/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some of the attributes of a strong deck&lt;/a&gt;, just in less &amp;quot;sexy&amp;quot; categories like consistent development and resilience. A deck that's straight-up weak across the board can play the same unassuming startup, but won't be able to capitalize on the late-game state in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does her approach win a disproportionate amount of games? It's hard to say with certainty. She seems to win more than her fair share of games, but I do, too, with much splashier punch-everyone-in-the-face control decks. I think trying to be unassuming and predictable works best when there are several big decks fighting for supremacy, e.g. with lock pieces, serving as a suitable distraction for themselves and all of your other opponents; if the table just has one, that deck likely has the resources to run you over while you're still in your &amp;quot;slow and steady&amp;quot; mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T05:06:05.373" LastActivityDate="2012-06-27T05:06:05.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7730" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-06-27T15:37:36.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards Against Humanity Cards Against Humanity is a party game for horrible people. Each round, a rotating Card Czar plays a prompt card and the other players each select a response card from their hand that best matches the prompt. The Card Czar then picks a winning card, giving a point to its player. The cards are designed to be offensive, vulgar, or cynical, making the game great fun, but inappropriate for children (or anything you would consider &quot;mixed company&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base set is a print-and-play game, which is also available for sale. There have been several expansions (adding cards, but not changing gameplay) which are not available through their website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2995" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:21:49.853" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:21:49.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7731" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-06-27T15:37:36.607" Score="0" Body="Cards Against Humanity is a party game for horrible people. Each round, a rotating Card Czar plays a prompt card and the other players each select a response card from their hand that best matches the prompt. The Card Czar then picks a winning card, giving a point to its player. The cards are designed to be offensive, vulgar, or cynical, making the game great fun, but inappropriate for children (or anything you would consider &quot;mixed company&quot;)." OwnerUserId="2995" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:21:25.170" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:21:25.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15493" CreationDate="2012-06-27T18:31:38.757" Score="5" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know someone who played checkers with a guy, and he plays with non-standard rules. People he plays with have their own rules, in this case, he played where the kinged checkers piece can jump unlimited distance and land just past the single piece being jumped. For example, given the below board, with &lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt;hite and &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;lack kings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;___________&#xA;|  B    W&#xA;|W  &#xA;|  B&#xA;|   &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, &lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt;hite's only jump move would be with the left piece jumping the lower &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;lack, but in this variation, the top right &lt;code&gt;W&lt;/code&gt;hite can make a jump down-left just past the lower &lt;code&gt;B&lt;/code&gt;lack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't hold much hope that you would know these particular rules, since they were probably made up on the fly and talked into acceptance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you suggest, as how to defeat someone who is used to this.. but not by forcing him into the standard rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there online reading material regarding obscure game variants?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to get a computer to follow unusual rules, allowing me to get some practice ahead of time? (at least with the special rules I'm aware of) I am a programmer, but I was hoping for something that required less programming and maybe something more generic, where I can just set the rules and play on a higher level.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you have other suggestions on how to level the playing field, so I can fare better in checkers with this opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am hoping to get in as much practice ahead of time before, to reduce the need to learn on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play Chess very well already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3000" LastEditorUserId="3000" LastEditDate="2012-06-27T19:13:22.190" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T13:32:02.800" Title="How to counter oddities of Shade-Tree Checkers? (long distance king jumps, etc)" Tags="|variants|checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7724" CreationDate="2012-06-28T07:01:08.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the people I've played FFA multiplayer the deciding factor of who got attacked wasn't as much about who had the stronger deck but rather who was known as the stronger player. Those who won previous games or were more experienced had a much higher risk of being attacked. Of course smack talk, and other non MtG related things, plays a big role too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is probably more common in playgroups where there's a big difference in experience among the players. Or where the players aren't very competitive, rather just want to have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T07:01:08.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7735" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-28T09:45:37.830" Score="4" ViewCount="1189" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the fishing addition to Settlers of Catan the robber can be removed from the board by using two fish. The question then is can a knight from the pack of Development cards be used to bring the robber back into the game by putting it on an opponents resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is not answered by the first respondant as in the fish game the desert is replaced by a lake and the robber is move completely off the board with two fish. The question then is can the knight bring the robber back into play from this position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3003" LastEditorUserId="3003" LastEditDate="2012-06-30T12:48:03.440" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T13:24:25.597" Title="Robber in fishing version of Settlers" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7735" CreationDate="2012-06-28T10:30:32.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?Fishermen_Rules_122806.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) actually state that for two fish you may:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move the robber back to the desert (do not steal any cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't removed from the board, but is placed on the desert (where it has no effect). A knight may still then move it as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T10:30:32.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7737" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-28T11:43:53.797" Score="6" ViewCount="6823" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say, for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cruel%20Edict&quot;&gt;Cruel Edict&lt;/a&gt; I have to choose which one of my opponent's heads sacrifices a creature. But I think that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Disappearance&quot;&gt;Sudden Disappearance&lt;/a&gt; makes all of their permanents go away, not just one person's. Can someone tell me why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3004" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-06-28T18:07:10.127" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T14:15:31.057" Title="Which effects affect both opponents and which only one in Two Headed Giant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7740" CreationDate="2012-06-28T12:25:12.210" Score="5" ViewCount="12323" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been googling around and cannot find the Resistance official web site where I can download the rules.  Does the site even exist?  Where can I read the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T03:08:25.443" Title="Where can I download The Resistance rules?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-06-28T12:30:03.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sudden Disappearance affects only one opponent, even in Two-Headed Giant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players do not share control of permanents in Two-Headed Giant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;810.5. With the exception of life total and poison counters, a team’s resources (cards in hand, mana, and so on) are not shared in the Two-Headed Giant variant. Teammates may review each other’s hands and discuss strategies at any time. Teammates can’t manipulate each other’s cards or permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that refer to one opponent only affect one opponent. Cards that refer to multiple opponents affect both. The only change to what you'd expect from normal Magic is for certain cards that say &quot;attacking player&quot; or &quot;defending player&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;810.7b Any one-shot effect that refers to the “defending player” refers to one specific defending player, not to both of the defending players. The controller of the effect chooses which one the spell or ability refers to at the time the effect is applied. The same is true for any one-shot effect that refers to the “attacking player.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any characteristic-defining ability that refers to the “defending player” refers to one specific defending player, not to both of the defending players. The controller of the object with the&#xA;  characteristic-defining ability chooses which one the ability refers to at the time the nonactive players become defending players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All other cases in which the “defending player” is referred to actually refer to both defending players. If the reference involves a positive comparison (such as asking whether the defending player controls an Island) or a relative comparison (such as asking whether you control more creatures than the defending player), it gets only one answer. This answer is “yes” if either defending player in the comparison would return a “yes” answer if compared individually. If the reference involves a negative comparison (such as asking whether the defending player controls no black permanents), it also gets only one answer. This answer is “yes” if performing the&#xA;  analogous positive comparison would return a “no” answer. The same is true for all other cases that refer to the “attacking player.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T12:30:03.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7738" CreationDate="2012-06-28T12:41:56.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://indieboardsandcards.com/resistance.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;publisher's page.&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link to the rules is a tiny button right under the red navigation menu on the left hand of the screen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-06-28T12:41:56.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-06-28T14:36:32.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=cruel%20edict&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{1}{B} - Sorcery - Target opponent sacrifices a creature.&quot;&gt;Cruel Edict&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262865&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{5}{W} - Sorcery - Exile all nonland permanents target player controls. Return the exiled cards to the battlefield under their owner's control at the beginning of the next end step.&quot;&gt;Sudden Disappearance&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; only affect a single opponent. In general, the only cards that would affect both heads of an opponent in two headed giant (2HG) are cards that say &lt;strong&gt;each&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; within the rules text (&lt;strong&gt;example:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{3}{R}{R} - Creature - {T}: Heartless Hidetsugu deals damage to each player equal to half that player's life total, rounded down.&quot;&gt;Heartless Hidetsugu&lt;/a&gt;), but this would be have the same effect in non-2HG duels or multiplayer games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only differences in 2HG with respect to rules text, is that players attack/defend in teams and take their turn as a team. A card that referred to an attacking or defending player would be referring to both members of the teams, or cards that add/skip turns or phases. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120601.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MtG Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;810.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Each team’s creatures attack the other team as a group. During the combat phase, the active team is the attacking team and each player on the active team is an attacking player. Likewise, the nonactive team is the defending team and each player on the nonactive team is a defending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; One player in a Two-Headed Giant game controls Teferi’s Moat, which says “As Teferi’s Moat enters the battlefield, choose a color.” and “Creatures of the chosen color without flying can’t attack you.” Creatures of the chosen color without flying can’t attack that player’s team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; If an attacking creature has forestwalk and either player on the defending team controls a Forest, the creature can’t be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;805.8&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect gives a player an extra turn or adds a phase or step to that player’s turn, that player’s team takes the extra turn, phase, or step. If an effect causes a player to skip a step, phase, or turn, that player’s team does so. If a single effect causes more than one player on the same team to add or skip the same step, phase, or turn, that team adds or skips only that step, phase, or turn. If an effect causes a player to control another player, the controller of that effect controls the affected player’s team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T14:15:31.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-28T22:55:07.883" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which Magic Ring is superior to the others on average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the best ring vary based upon which character you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1712" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T01:58:46.807" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T12:25:51.223" Title="Which Magic Ring should I choose in DungeonQuest?" Tags="|dungeonquest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-28T23:41:11.363" Score="3" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;The center of your spaceship board is on the '7's in all four directions. Since the odds of rolling a certain number increases as that number approaches 7, it seems reasonable to build toward one side if persuing a small ship strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot look at the event distributions until you have placed a single component, so what is the best side to build toward (based on all card events per level), so that you can choose the possibility of a small ship that will take the least damage, before having a chance to look at the events?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I only place a component with 1 or 2 open connections as my first piece, and if so on which side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7745/when-should-i-avoid-a-small-ship-srategy&quot;&gt;When should I avoid a small ship strategy&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_269_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;), here is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/316513/galaxy-trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Small I&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/316514/galaxy-trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Medium II&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/316516/galaxy-trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Large III&lt;/a&gt; maximum ship sizes for each stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reference of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1008622/galaxy-trucker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;144 ship tiles&lt;/a&gt; (original size is available with a BGG account), until I can discover a way to describe the components in text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T16:51:06.160" Title="If I am going to build a small ship, which direction should I build toward?" Tags="|statistics|galaxy-trucker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7745" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-29T00:02:12.023" Score="2" ViewCount="1390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I should break this question out from the other related question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7744/if-i-am-going-to-build-a-small-shipo-which-direction-should-i-build-toward&quot;&gt;which direction should I build a small ship?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I avoid a small ship strategy? Which events would make a small ship not preferable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_269_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;), during the first round you are allowed to examine 6/8 (out of 20 total) cards that will be in the adventure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adventure Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Open Space (move forward X engine power)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Abandon Ship -1 Day,(-2 Astro:$3, -3 Astro:$4, 5 Astro:YG, 6 Astro:RR)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Purple -1 Day,(4 Laz:-2 Good/YGB,6 Laz:-3 Astro/$5, 5 Laz:3 shots Front ssL/$4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Meteor (ssss TBLR, Lss TLR, LsL TTT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Planet (-2 Day:RR,RBB,Y#-2 Day:GG,Y,BBB#-3 Day:RGBBB,RYB,RBBB,RG#-3 Day:YGBB,YY)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stardust (-1 day per open connection)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Combat Zone (least Astro -3 Day, least engine -2 Astro, least Laz shot sL BB)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T15:12:45.300" Title="When should I avoid a small ship strategy?" Tags="|galaxy-trucker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7737" CreationDate="2012-06-29T13:13:49.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are also &quot;sharing&quot; turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card that reads in part &quot;target player takes an extra turn&quot; will cause both heads to take an additional turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true for controling another player's Turn (Mindslaver, Sorin Markov)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3007" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T13:13:49.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7751" CreationDate="2012-06-29T14:19:57.200" Score="7" ViewCount="4874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many decks in competitive Magic have access to targeted discard spells, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against counterspells, you can rely on a variety of tricks like baiting counters, bottlenecking your opponent's mana, and good old-fashioned counter wars. Targeted discard cards allow your opponent to attack your hand on the very first turn of the game, and go right for your key cards — and it can often be backbreaking when your opponent takes away a crucial card like a combo piece or a sweeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What tricks and tactics can you employ, either during deck-building or in play, to play around an opponent's targeted discard?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(I know that one of the answers is going to be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Will&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;. That's excellent, but please also include approaches that work in formats &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; free countermagic.)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:24:41.423" LastActivityDate="2020-05-13T02:31:34.550" Title="How can I play around targeted discard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-06-29T14:33:32.610" Score="7" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking over the Adventure cards for Round I of Galaxy Trucker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adventure Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Open Space (move forward X engine power)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Abandon Ship -1 Day,(-2 Astro:$3, -3 Astro:$4, 5 Astro:YG, 6 Astro:RR)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Purple -1 Day,(4 Laz:-2 Good/YGB,6 Laz:-3 Astro/$5, 5 Laz:3 shots Front ssL/$4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Meteor (ssss TBLR, Lss TLR, LsL TTT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Planet (-2 Day:RR,RBB,Y#-2 Day:GG,Y,BBB#-3 Day:RGBBB,RYB,RBBB,RG#-3 Day:YGBB,YY)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Stardust (-1 day per open connection)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Combat Zone (least Astro -3 Day, least engine -2 Astro, least Laz shot sL BB)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as if shields would only matter on 2 adventure cards, if you have no open connectors. You would only have open connectors if you got shot by the single Purple encounter, or the Combat Zone (or you built your ship that way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How effective is a shield on average during the first round?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you ever place a shield in the first round?, why? (Statistcal evaluations appreciated)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:55:06.613" Title="How effective is a shield component during the first round?" Tags="|statistics|galaxy-trucker|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7750" CreationDate="2012-06-29T14:39:53.117" Score="12" ViewCount="3056" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if my hand is empty and I draw and reveal &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporal%20Mastery&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt;, can an opponent cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Funeral%20Charm&quot;&gt;Funeral Charm&lt;/a&gt; and make me discard it before I have a chance to cast it for its Miracle Cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T22:19:18.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:24:18.477" Title="Can an opponent make me discard a Miracle card before I cast it, after it is revealed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-06-29T14:42:33.753" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Miracle triggers upon revealing the card when you draw it. You cannot cast the card until the triggered ability resolves and you pay the cost. Until that time, the card is in your hand and subject to the effects of discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93. Miracle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). &amp;quot;Miracle [cost]&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it's the first card you've drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93b If a player chooses to reveal a card using its miracle ability, he or she plays with that card revealed until that card leaves his or her hand, that ability resolves, or that ability otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:24:18.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7747" CreationDate="2012-06-29T15:12:53.483" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are quite a few ways to play around discard decks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Sanctity&quot;&gt;Leyline of Sanctity&lt;/a&gt; to make yourself Hexproof.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all relevant discard effects (except combat damage effects) come from spells and abilities that require you, the player, as a target, this one card hardcounters discard decks and, incidentally, also burn and many combo decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play a deck without cards whose loss would cripple your strategy/combo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sligh comes to mind, or White Weeny, or Stompy. Anything but Combo, basically, preferably Aggro. If there are no key cards in your deck, you can't lose them to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play a deck that benefits from discard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowadays, there are many cards, keyword mechanics mechanics, and deck archetypes that benefit from you having few cards in hand or many in your graveyard. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cursed%20Scroll&quot;&gt;Cursed Scroll&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensnaring%20Bridge&quot;&gt;Ensnaring Bridge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crucible%20of%20Worlds&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Hellbent&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Threshold&lt;/em&gt;, and the Reanimator archetype are examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw more cards than your opponent can make you discard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All card advantage strategies apply. While this does not directly counter targeted discard, it allows you to draw more cards and therefore more copies of your win conditions, overwhelming your opponent's capability to discard them. Of course, if you lose all of your win conditions to discard, with no way to retrieve them from the graveyard, no amount of card draw will salvage the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tutor for key cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly all discard, and AFAIK all targeted discard has sorcery speed. Use instant speed tutor effects like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystical%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Mystical Tutor&lt;/a&gt; to get you the cards you need exactly when you need them, without an opening for your opponent. That increases your flexibility and allows you to carry 1 or 2 each of a wide range of strong cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use targeted recycle to get the discarded card back&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Regrowth&quot;&gt;Regrowth&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Noxious%20Revival&quot;&gt;Noxious Revival&lt;/a&gt; to simply return the card you had to discard. Either you get the card back immediately, or, if you have to put it on top of your library, play the recycler at the end of the opponent's turn. If enough cards are in your graveyard, this even acts as a kind of tutor, since you may get to choose from a variety of cards. Recyclers are not wasted, either, when your opponent doesn't play discard, so they can be easily integrated into the main deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T16:30:27.330" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T16:30:27.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7749" CreationDate="2012-06-29T15:43:12.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on whether the Miracle card is a Sorcery or Instant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be correct to say: Your opponent can make you discard a Miracle card before you can cast it &lt;em&gt;for its Miracle cost&lt;/em&gt;, as user1873 already pointed out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card is a sorcery, you can't usually play it outside the main phase or with a non-empty stack, so for your specific example, he could make you discard before you can cast it in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's an Instant, however, you can still play it for its regular cost in response to the Funeral Charm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-06-29T15:49:44.730" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T15:49:44.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7747" CreationDate="2012-06-29T21:28:51.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To supplement Hackworth's excellent answer, I want to expand a little bit on &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; card draw in particular can be powerful against discard strategies.  Discard is inherently linear, in the sense that one discard spell doesn't make another inherently better; each Thoughtseize will trade one-for-one with the best card in your opponent's hand, but they don't interact much with each other and in extreme cases they can even interfere - stripping three cards from your opponent with one &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25634&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fugue&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, might mean that the next one you cast only catches one card unless you wait a couple of turns.  By contrast, draw spells have a tendency to cascade; drawing additional cards means that you have more opportunity to draw additional card-draw spells, which in turn will feed even more cards into your hand.  This is somewhat less true with targeted discard, which is a great part of the reason why those spells tend to see play while 'victim-chooses' discard seldom does; and the cascading effect is somewhat less true with 'cantrip' card-draw, which I suspect is why Wizards has made those the primary form of efficient draw spells lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-06-29T21:28:51.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7757" CreationDate="2012-06-30T01:34:35.227" Score="5" ViewCount="1575" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most bridge teachers (and books) teach players to draw trumps at the first possible opportunity. The reason is that you don't want your opponents to take tricks with low trumps. (If they have the A, or Kx or Qxx &quot;offside&quot; your ace, their high trumps will take tricks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One exception is a cross-ruff. Then you want to take your top card winners in side suits, before cross-ruffing, so that your opponents can't discard those suits and later ruff your high cards with their remaining trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example that was given in a bridge write-up was when you want to ruff low cards in one hand with trumps in the other hand (after it runs out of the suit). If you do this, you leave opposing trumps outstanding. On the other hand, is it true that the act of your ruffing (thus playing trumps from one hand), &quot;qualifies&quot; as a trump play so that you don't leave yourself unprotected? Or put another way, does it often make sense to ruff before drawing trumps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T19:11:29.887" Title="In Bridge, Is &quot;ruffing&quot; a good enough reason to postpone drawing trumps?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7735" CreationDate="2012-06-30T13:24:25.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lake tile replaces the desert. With no desert tile, the robber starts out off of the board and moves onto the board when a 7 is rolled or someone uses a Knight card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the robber has been removed from the board (using fish), the same rules apply: a Knight or rolling 7 will bring him right back. There is no way to remove the robber &quot;permanently.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T13:24:25.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2012-06-30T16:49:14.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I have had success with is sending both subs with 3 fighters to the North Sea and 2 fighters and bomber to wipe England's battleship in Gibraltar. This allows the two transports and battleship to hook up in Spain's sea zone and put pressure on atlantic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English have to decide to send in their transport and all the airforce to sink the German Battleship, which puts their fighters out of randge of kar or possibly  even losing their airforce which would make it impossible for an india factory. If instead they leave either the German fleet or any surviving subs in North Sea alone, USA can only use a transport and a bomber to try a 2nd wave of attacks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as Africa with this move you pull libya back to Algeria and save the Norway tank and move the infantry in west europe to Algeira to slowly advance and have Japan land in Egypt by turn 3. I have done plenty of tests of this strategy, and typically it forces England to not buy any navy or (ind?) first turn, and instead buy some infantry and fighter to cover their butt if the German fleet survives for sea lion or even a brazil assault. so with this move Germany can buy and employ all forces towards Russia with UK and USA scrambling to rebuild an airforce and navy which puts any direct threats past turn 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3010" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-06-30T17:29:57.877" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T17:29:57.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7754" CreationDate="2012-06-30T18:26:55.387" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a single answer to this; when to draw trumps and when not to is probably the area where most judgement is called for, as opposed to applying rules.  You have to balance the probable gain from ruffing early against the possible loss if the opponents ruff your winners later (or, of course, over-ruff).  I realize this isn't necessarily helpful, so here's a list (non-exhaustive) of factors that weigh against taking out trumps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use a trump in the short hand (ie one that would be swallowed if you take out trumps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have enough high trumps to ruff high without compromising control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a long suit that can be established by a ruff or two (in which case of course you must take out trumps after the ruff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After one or two rounds, the opponents have the high trumps: they're going to win anyway, no sense in letting them take your trumps as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that normal play, such as taking out trumps, will leave you one trick short, so a gamble will give better returns than normal in the score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-06-30T18:26:55.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7761" CreationDate="2012-07-01T18:55:42.967" Score="6" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play in a bridge &quot;round robin&quot; using Chicago scoring, with three other people. Call them, A, B, and C, with three different styles. &#xA;A will open, say one spade with as few as ten high card points (HCP) and a 6-4 or 5-5 distribution, or 11 hcp and a 5-4 distribution using the &quot;rule of 20.&quot; (The sum of hcp and length in the top two suits needs ot equal 20.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B bids &quot;Standard American.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C will never open with less than 13 hcp, sometimes passing with them, and needing 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have 6 points as a responder. I will sometimes pass with A, unless I have something extra, like a fourth trump or a good sequence (KQ, or QJT), but bid with B. With C, I may shade my points down to 5 with &quot;something extra.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament, when paired with A or C, I should disclose our unusual bidding practices, right? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose I do this in a round robin when I will be partnered with A for four hands, B for four hands, and C for four hands, etc. Is this objectionable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T00:22:39.727" LastActivityDate="2023-07-08T08:47:16.440" Title="Is it legitimate/ethical to treat the same bid from different people in different ways?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7754" CreationDate="2012-07-01T19:11:29.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like most aphorisms, this has a grain of truth, but also needs to be taken with a grain of salt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trump is the most powerful suit on the board. That's a good reason for PLAYING them early, but not necessarily drawing them early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have a singleton in a side suit in dummy, and Axx in your hand. You'll want to take the ace, ruff an x, get back to your hand (possibly with a trump), and ruff the other x. With only four in the suit, your opponents will have nine. And if no one bid the suit at the three level, you can safely assume that they are distributed 6-3 or 5-4. If you have three trumps in dummy, you can't afford to draw more than one (possibly to get back to your hand), because you'd be drawing YOUR OWN trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other cases, you'll be ruffing longer suits, but may have high trumps in dummy to overruff anything your opponents can play. And if an opponent's trump holding were something like K9, s/he might not want to trump and &quot;unguard&quot; the king against your ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would re-word the advice by saying PLAY trump early, rather than DRAW trump early. Ruffing counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-01T19:11:29.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7759" CreationDate="2012-07-02T01:36:08.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is legitimate, as long you disclose the known tendencies to the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't, it is similar to having undisclosed agreements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T01:36:08.233" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7763" CreationDate="2012-07-02T05:28:11.820" Score="4" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most recent decks that I can find are from 2005. Are the top 4 championship decks from each year still being packaged for retail? If so, where's a good place to buy them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2995" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T09:21:33.560" Title="Does Wizards of the Coast still package World Championship Decks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7762" CreationDate="2012-07-02T09:21:33.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately they were discontinued (at around the time you state) for not being widely popular.  The cards could obviously not be played in tournaments and weren't even very good for casual play because of the nonstandard card backs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A shame because I quite liked the feeling of playing a finely-tuned Pro deck too... but Wizards are just too cagey about printing anything resembling proxies of top-tier tournament cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T09:21:33.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7845" CreationDate="2012-07-02T12:37:19.503" Score="5" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 6th edition of 40K introduces AP for melee weapons.  Previously many melee weapons where listed as &quot;Ignores Armor Saves&quot;.  Now they have an supposed to have Armor Penetration value just like ranged weapons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eldrad's weapon's rules are listed as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...a melee weapon that wounds on a 2+ regardless of toughness and ignores armor saves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yreil's weapon's rules are listed as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...as a Witchblade that ignores armor saves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the rules are they called out as being power weapons, which according to the new edition would cause them to be classified as Unusual Power Weapons and get AP3.  They are also neither listed in the Master Rule Book appendix which is supposed to update all existing weapons for the new edition, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My inclination is to interpret them as written and say that no one can take armor saves against wounds caused by these weapons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that the correct interpretation, or am I missing something in core rule book that would clarify the issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T11:51:09.813" Title="What's the AP of Eldrad's Staff and Yreil's spear?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7767" CreationDate="2012-07-02T12:54:59.100" Score="3" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mitotic%20Slime&quot;&gt;Mitotic Slime&lt;/a&gt; in play and then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thromok%20the%20Insatiable&quot;&gt;Thromok the Insatiable&lt;/a&gt;. When I sacrifice the Slime due to Thromok's Devour ability, I get two 2/2 Slime tokens. Am I able to sacrifice those Slime tokens to Thromok as well, or do they not come into play until Thromok is completely resolved? Since the 2/2 Slime tokens make two 1/1 Slime tokens as well, could I potentially get &lt;em&gt;seven&lt;/em&gt; devour triggers from this one creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:23:31.487" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:23:31.487" Title="How does Mitotic Slime work with Devour?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2012-07-02T13:26:11.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mitotic Slime's &quot;put two 2/2 Ooze creatures onto the battlefield&quot; ability triggers, but does not resolve, in the course of Thromok's Devour ability.  So you won't get to Devour any of the Slime tokens.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thromok is already on the battlefield by the time the mitotically-created subslimes appear, and can't go back for seconds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T13:26:11.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7765" CreationDate="2012-07-02T14:27:09.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thromok%20the%20Insatiable&quot;&gt;Thromok the Insatiable&lt;/a&gt;, or other Devour card has a static ability that modifies how that permanent enters that battlefield. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mitotic%20Slime&quot;&gt;Mitotic Slime&lt;/a&gt; has a triggered ability, which means that if it triggers during the resolution of another spell or ability (such as Devour, placing the Mitotic Slime in the graveyard), it must wait until the next time any player would receive priority before being put on the stack and finally resolving when both players pass in succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells and abilities on the stack do not resolve immediately, so it would be impossible to sacrifice the Mitotic Slime and the tokens that it produces when the &lt;strong&gt;Die&lt;/strong&gt; trigger resolves, before the &lt;strong&gt;Devour&lt;/strong&gt; ability that initially caused the Die trigger finishes resolving. The Devour ability must finish resolving before any player receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6e  Some permanents have text that reads &amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield tapped.&amp;quot; Such text is a static ability—not a triggered ability—whose effect occurs as part of the event that puts the permanent onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3  Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. See rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.2a  Triggered abilities can trigger at any time, including while a spell is being cast, an ability is being activated, or a spell or ability is resolving. (See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;) However, nothing actually happens at the time an ability triggers. Each time a player would receive priority, each ability that has triggered but hasn’t yet been put on the stack is put on the stack. See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T14:27:09.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7770" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:12:07.337" Score="6" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a casual game with a friend the other day testing out a new angels deck I built and came accross this situation....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240059&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel's Tomb&lt;/a&gt;, which has this artifact may become a 3/3 flying white artifact angel  until end of turn whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, on the field as well as 2 other creatures and I then summoned &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239998&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goldnight Redeemer&lt;/a&gt;, which has WETB gain 2 life for each other creature you control.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is does the Angel's Tomb effect trigger before or after Goldnight Redeemer since both are activated by Goldnight Redeemer entering the battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2975" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T22:18:32.690" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T22:18:32.690" Title="Goldnight Redeemer and Angel's Tomb" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7768" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:49:34.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You control both triggered ablities, so &lt;strong&gt;you choose&lt;/strong&gt; the order that they resolve. Under Handling Triggered Abilities in the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received prority,each player, in APNAP (Active Player Non-Active Player) order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in &lt;strong&gt;any order&lt;/strong&gt; he or she chooses.(See rule 101.4.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-02T16:34:38.543" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T16:34:38.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7768" CreationDate="2012-07-02T15:54:30.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on user1873's answer ever so slightly - they're both your abilities, so you can put them on the stack whichever way you want.  You want to put the Goldnight Redeemer's ability on the stack first, and then Angel's Tomb's ability on the stack after that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The abilities then resolve in a Last In, First Out style: at the top of the stack, the Tomb becomes a creature.  Then we move on to the Redeemer ability and gain 2 life for each other creature - which now includes the Tomb-Angel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stacking triggered abilities correctly can be a bit difficult to visualise at first, so I thought it would be useful to provide a little walkthrough...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-07-02T15:54:30.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-03T01:07:56.943" Score="6" ViewCount="1183" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, I was handed a full go board. And, somehow figured it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A beginner friend wants to start &quot;small&quot; on something like 1/4 of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think that we should start with the entire board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="52" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T08:33:34.890" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T08:07:34.260" Title="How does one set up a 1/4 board for Go – and is it a good way to start?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2012-07-03T04:48:16.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 1/4 board (11x11), is not a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?11x11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;standard size&lt;/a&gt;, so I do not believe that any official setup for black handicap stones exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some confusion exists on what a quarter board is though, as I have seen a 9x9 also called a quarter board. The handicaps for that board are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davar.net/GO/HND-9-9.HTM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;listed here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T04:48:16.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2012-07-03T10:15:41.650" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of discussion on whether starting on 19x19 or 9x9 is preferable, the general consensus tends to 9x9. Personally, I started on 19x19 but would have preferred 9x9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, you first need to understand the most basic melee fighting tactics (atari, ladder, snapback, basic life and death, etc). Those can be learned on both big and small boards, but small boards avoid introducing complex strategic issues and make for faster games that are easier to review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably should stick to small boards until you are familiar enough with the game to stop making &quot;obvious&quot; mistakes (crawling with a dead group on the first line, playing out ladders, stuff like that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T10:15:41.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7774" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-03T12:47:50.947" Score="4" ViewCount="365" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror, players may use the spell Red Sign of Shudde M'ell to lower a monster's toughness by 1 (to a minimum of 1) until the end of this combat.  In the event that an investigator has multiple copies of that spell (let's say 5) against a monster with a high enough toughness (almost like the Dunwich Horror), can that investigator cast all those spells over multiple combat rounds to effectively reduce that monster's toughness to the minimum of 1?  Or reduce all of its abilities to absolutely nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that both effects of that spell are stateful and affects the monster's traits waaaay after the spells are cast and subsequently released, but I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;just want to make sure.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arkham Horror rules state that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell or weapon that gives you a bonus (even one that says it lasts until the end of combat) only continues to give you the bonus while you devote the required number of hands to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, for spells like Withering, which gives a combat bonus of three (3), that means the bonus goes away the next combat round when you've released the spell.  However, the Red Sign of Shudde M'ell does not provide any combat bonus whatsoever.  Just like the item &quot;Shotgun&quot;, which confers a raw 6 ability distinct from its combat bonus, the spell has an effect outside of its normal combat bonus of zero (0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after successfully casting and exhausting two of those spell cards, the player can release both hands and then successfully cast another two copies of that particular spell to both reduce the toughness of a monster by four blood drops and remove four of either &quot;Overwhelming X&quot;, &quot;Endless&quot;, &quot;Physical Immunity&quot;, &quot;Physical Resistance&quot;, &quot;Magical Resistance&quot;, and &quot;Ambush&quot; at the end of two combat rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap: Can you release the hands used for a successfully cast Red Sign of Shudde M'ell after a combat round without forfeiting the spell's benefits in later combat rounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OT: Terse recapitulation is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T14:01:43.020" Title="Stateful equipment use for Red Sign of Shudde M'ell in Arkham Horror" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-03T13:11:01.417" Score="3" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror, players may use the spell Red Sign of Shudde M'ell to lower a monster's toughness by 1 (to a minimum of 1) and ignore a monster's special ability until the end of this combat.  Can it be used to cancel the monster ability Nightmarish X?  If yes, can the investigator reclaim the hand used for it at the start of the combat round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a problem with the Arkham Horror rules about the specific timing of when an investigator can switch equipment at the cost of his/her hands.  The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can choose to switch weapons/spells in &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;later combat rounds&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, but as soon as you “release” a spell or weapon, it stops working for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis on &quot;later combat rounds&quot; is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the assumption is that spells are only cast during the combat rounds, which comprise the combat check and all optional spell checks.  However, there is no rule that says Red Sign cannot be cast during the preceding horror check, which takes place &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the combat round.  Successfully casting this spell against a monster with the ability Nightmarish N, where N is greater than 1, can prevent the reduction of N - 1 sanity after a successful horror check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other cost to the Red Sign is its use of one hand.  However, that resource is immediately gained back, since the combat round that follows is, in fact, one of the &quot;later&quot; combat rounds mentioned.  At the start of the subsequent combat round, all devoted hands can be now be switched, and whatever hand that was used for the spell can now be switched for the use of combat items, such as guns or even another copy of the Red Sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried searching everywhere but the FFG forums and I haven't encountered any other people who are interested in deciphering this metagame puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can Red Sign be used to cancel Nightmarish X before the horror check?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, will the investigator be able to use two hands worth of equipment for the following combat check(s)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T15:03:22.323" Title="Red Sign of Shudde M'ell hands use and timing against Nightmarish X in Arkham Horror" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7774" CreationDate="2012-07-03T13:22:08.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the term &lt;strong&gt;bonus&lt;/strong&gt; in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell or weapon that gives you a bonus...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is that it refers to any advantages that you may have using the specific card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also taken in mind that this card has a &lt;strong&gt;hand&lt;/strong&gt; on it, then it is sure for me that whenever you stop casting it by releasing your hand, then its effect is being cancelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my thoughts make sense :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T13:22:08.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-03T14:23:02.490" Score="1" ViewCount="1534" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Arkham Horror base game, the spell Enchant Weapon has the ability to make a Physical Weapon into a Magical Weapon until the end of this combat (assuming that one such combat exists).  Similarly, in the Arkham Horror expansion Lurker in the Threshold, the spell Intervene has the ability to +3 to a combat check when cast before that investigator makes the check (again, assuming that one such combat check exists).  Can these two spells be used for helping other investigators?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the card game Magic:The Gathering, targets are defined in a way to promote ingenious play, such that creative uses for spells exist (e.g. Denial Bazaar of Baghdad + Balance).  Assuming that the targets in Arkham Horror are defined in the same way (so as to promote emergent gameplay), the target for Enchant Weapon can be &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any weapon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, regardless of who owns it.  That means the spell can be used to target the weapon of another investigator, regardless of the distance between the spellcaster and the other investigator, so long as that investigator is in combat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if Joe Diamond was facing a Physically Immune ghost monster with only his trusty peashooter in combat somewhere in Kingsport, Jenny Barnes in Innsmouth can cast the spell Enchant Weapon so that Joe's gun will actually damage that ghost until then end of his combat, even though neither the weapon nor the combat is hers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the spell Intervene, let's say that Joe Diamond decided to investigate the Graveyard and got this encounter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Descending into a dark mausoleum, you discover a vampire rising to feed. You quickly find yourself fighting for your life. Make a Combat (-2) check. If you pass, you defeat the vampire, gaining 1 Clue token and drawing 1 Unique Item. If you fail, roll a die and lose that much Stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Jenny Barnes in Innsmouth had the spell Intervene, then she can THEORETICALLY use the spell to give Joe Diamond a +3 Combat check modifier to help him out, even though she is on another board.  Since the set of valid targets for Intervene is &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; investigator, and Joe is an investigator (and therefore an element of that set), then Joe should be able to reap the benefits of a successfully cast Intervene even though he isn't the one casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that Jenny Barnes uses up two hands to cast Intervene is irrelevant, since she can simply release the spell after Joe's check.  The spell only lasts for ONE combat check, and she can immediately free up her hand resources as soon as the spell's duration is done, with no lasting effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing with the spell Mists of Releh and Bind Monster.  Mists of Releh's target is an Evade Check, which means ANY Evade Check, not necessarily the caster's.  Bind Monster's target is a Combat Check, which means ANY Combat Check, not necessarily the caster's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Mists of Releh and Bind Monster's targets are skill checks, and the set of targets have no restrictions on who is actually performing those checks according to the game's rules, then the Mists of Releh and Bind Monster can be cast for checks made by other investigators, since checks made by other investigators are also elements in the set of targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that Bind Monster uses up two hands for casting is irrelevant when it is used for another investigator's combat check, since the caster isn't actually participating in the combat check and wouldn't need the hands for anything else.  The only relevant factors would then be spell check success and sanity cost for the spellcaster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be mistaken in case there has been an official ruling that I don't know about as to the timing of these effects.  I would have to assume that these spells can be cast at any time, for any valid target, much like Fast Effects in the game Magic:The Gathering, since I haven't come across any restrictions regarding targeting and timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such card play can be used for greater cooperation between investigators, and I would like to know whether these applications are valid for when I need to unleash a killer card combo against awful monsters, such as Dholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To recap: Can an investigator benefit from the spells Enchant Weapon, Intervene, Mists of Releh, Bind Monster, et al, cast by another investigator given that the targets and timing are valid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T16:28:26.767" Title="Arkham Horror: Enchant Weapon, Intervene (et al) use for other investigators" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7775" CreationDate="2012-07-03T14:47:15.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Red Sign can be cast during any phase (so combat during any phase isn't an issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Combat' begins as soon as you stop at/leave an location/street with a monster or during the encounter phase when 'A monster appears!', etc. This is to say that you're already in combat when you're figuring out how many dice to roll for your horror check. As Red Sign makes no specific mention of casting while making a combat check, rather it only refers to 'combat' in the general sense, Red Sign can be cast before making a horror check to remove Nightmarish from a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pose an interesting situation with your second question, but this has nothing to do with your primary question and is covered by the other question you posed here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7774/stateful-equipment-use-for-red-sign-of-shudde-mell-in-arkham-horror&quot;&gt;Stateful equipment use for Red Sign of Shudde M&amp;#39;ell in Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, from the Kevin Wilson thread of the FFG forums:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Enchant Weapon, Shrivelling, Wither, Dread Curse of Azathoth, and Red Sign of Shudde M'ell be cast at any time after an investigator engages a monster, so as to, for example, use the Red Sign to cancel Nightmarish before the Horror Check, or allow one to see if a &amp;quot;weapon&amp;quot; type spell succeeds before making the decision to fight or flee?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Yes you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T15:03:22.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7785" CreationDate="2012-07-03T15:12:20.407" Score="29" ViewCount="6233" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I play a fair amount of Settlers of Catan (normally with 3-4 players).  Sometimes I do well and sometimes I do badly; however, the most infuriating games are those where I'm unable to do &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; for pretty much the entire game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in the last game with 4 players, I managed to (in total) build 3 roads and buy 2 development cards (a knight and a victory point).  As the starting player, I placed my first settlement in a strong central position in the map with good access to both wood and brick. However, by the time everyone else placed their cities, I was forced to place my last city on the coast to get access to any ore, and I was left completely cut off from wheat (and my other settlement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problems became fairly evident in the early stages of the game - without access to wheat, I struggled to gather the resources to build new settlements, and to make matters worse, my initial settlement placement was very hemmed in by other players, meaning I didn't have many options on where to expand to.  By the time I managed to scrape together the resources to build a settlement, other players had already built settlements too close, meaning I needed to use up my resources to build more roads.  Trading with other players didn't really help me out, as they were all racing for the same settlement positions that I was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These sorts of games seem to come around reasonably frequently, which leads me to believe that it's something that I'm doing rather than just being something that happens every now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read both &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1018/how-to-start-in-catan-games&quot;&gt;How to start in Catan games?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/48/in-settlers-of-catan-how-do-you-overcome-bad-initial-settlement-placement&quot;&gt;In Settlers of Catan, how do you overcome bad initial settlement placement?&lt;/a&gt; and now always try to make sure I start with an initial placement that at least involves a good supply of brick and wood. However, I've found it difficult to get a mixture of all resources. For example, in the last game before this, I found myself cut off completely from ore, which seriously hampered my ability to buy cities and development cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to avoid getting stuck in these sorts of situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T10:21:49.893" Title="What can I do to avoid being stuck being able to do nothing in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7777" CreationDate="2012-07-03T15:24:26.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; heading on page 16 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using Weapons and Spells &lt;strong&gt;in Combat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the investigator engaged in combat can cast spells and use weapons against the monster that it is engaged with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator must successfully cast a spell in order to gain its benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only excepion to this, would be cards that are specifically worded to affect other players, as EvilAmarant7x points out with Intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-03T16:28:26.767" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T16:28:26.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7777" CreationDate="2012-07-03T15:45:54.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text on Intervene states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast and exhaust before an investigator makes a Combat check to give that investigator +3 to the check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is clearly intended to be used on other investigators. Additionally, as there is no stipulation on distance defined, the spell can be used between any two investigators regardless of distance. The hand requirement is in place to allow an investigator to use the spell for themselves, but it prevents them from using additional spells &amp;amp; weapons to aid in the check. Really, it's meant to help other people. With a Sanity cost of 2 and a casting modifier of -1, it's clearly inferior to Wither for purposes of aiding one's own combat but can be rather helpful aiding teammates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for any other spells, they cannot be used on other investigators. Unless explicitly stated, investigator cards (items, spells, skills, allies, etc.) are designed to operate on actions the investigator using the card in question is involved in, such as making a check of type. While I couldn't find anywhere in the rules that explicitly stated that items only affected the investigator carrying the items, it isn't the case. Just because the lantern says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+1 to Luck checks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;doesn't mean it gives a +1 to all Luck checks for all investigators, even though it doesn't explicity state that only the carrier of the item gains this benefit. Similarly, the benefits of a spell can only be utilized by the spellcaster unless tated otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have played with the idea of allowing investigators in the same area to cooperate directly to varying degrees, but there's nothing built into the game that supports this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T15:45:54.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-07-03T16:33:36.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First seat is usually one of the worst places to be in my opinion. It will guarantee you the best and the lest desirable placements on the board. Every seat has different placement strategies associated with them but I will try to be more general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resources alone is not the only thing to consider on initial placement. Rolling ratios and good rolling ratio combinations are also critical to success. I tend to look with intersections containing 10-8-5 or 9-6-4 intersections as well as if they produce the resources to build roads and eventually cities. Even if you have a high ratio placement with similar resources (i.e. 2 wheat and one sheep on a 10-9-6) getting the resources will usually overcome the lack of the proper variety of resources. You have to have something to trade in order to trade is the point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you can place a second settlement on a port that has the resource (i.e. wheat port on a wheat hex with an 8) do not be tempted by it. Those placements will start producing only one card early in the game and make you a target to easily stunt your growth. You may want to consider a lower number placement but produces more resources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many sites about placement theory which I would encourage you reading. I personally like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.settlers-strategy.com/settlers_of_catan_strategy_placement_1.html&quot;&gt;http://www.settlers-strategy.com/settlers_of_catan_strategy_placement_1.html&lt;/a&gt; and have modified it to fit my play style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T16:33:36.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-07-03T19:05:33.597" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll contribute one suggestion: I don't think that prioritizing placements that offer brick and wood is a very sensible philosophy.  Yes, those resources maximize your chances of coming strong out of the gates with early roads.  On the other hand, dominating in the early game is only a small part of being good at Settlers of Catan.  You're discovering that you often end up powerless in the mid-to-late game.  I'd say it's &lt;em&gt;very likely&lt;/em&gt; that your focus on early-game resources is contributing to this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you grab two plum locations for brick and/or wood - if they're on opposite sides of the map, with other players in the way, your ability to connect your roads together will be severely hampered, maybe to the extent of cancelling out the advantage you gained from cornering road-building resources in the first place.  And here's another thing: by apparently doing quite well in the early game with your wood, brick and roads, you strongly incentivize other players to do something to contain your position.  Meanwhile, the player who is unassumingly building up a nice collection of development cards is probably &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; doing better than you.  Subtlety is a great virtue in Catan!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were you, I'd try aiming for abundance of resources and two placements that are harmonious with one another, in strong preference to this notion of &quot;I mustn't do badly in the early game&quot;.  I think you may find it reaps dividends, and even if you crash and burn a few times at least it'll provide you with some interesting new perspectives in ways to try and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-07-03T19:05:33.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-07-03T21:27:15.797" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to win at Settlers. The only type of starting position which limits your options is the one you described - good access to wood and brick but not much else, and then getting hemmed in. This situation doesn't happen too often in our group because the more experienced players usually dissuade newer or poorer players from placing an initial settlement that has a strong likelihood of leading to a disastrous outcome - which reduces the chance of a tedious game for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've seen many poor starts in Settlers that ended in victory. I have two sections worth of thoughts for you describing the advantages of starting out behind, and the various ways I've seen players come back after a poor start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The advantages of starting from behind:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other players more willing to trade with you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can drive a harder bargain in trades (i.e. you must give me 2 cards to get the 1 you need, or you must give me 3 cards to get the 2 you need)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the robber gets put on you less often&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when the robber does get put on you, the card is drawn from a different player's hand if hex is shared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;people don't pay as much attention to what you're doing, so you can be secretly planning for your dramatic surge to victory without everyone pointing out what you're planning (good players tend to carefully monitor and point out who is close to winning and why but often neglect this analysis for those who trail by a lot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Various ways to win with seemingly poor initial starting positions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;monopolize a scarce resource and obtain advantaged trades (something the player going first is sometimes best positioned to do)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;go for a 2:1 port strategy if circumstances allow&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if placing first, consider carefully where the good settlement sites are for initial placement. You might purposely shift to a slightly worse settlement site because it is obvious nobody else will place near it (or maybe one side will obviously be open for expansion). You will often need to very carefully place the second settlement to preserve a swath of territory for yourself to pull off this strategy. I have often started slow because I purposely chose slightly worse resources for this reason, but had far more expansion territory than the other players who end up crowding each other while I slowly catch up and eventually surpass them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ultra-cooperate your way to a chance at victory. I had a game recently where I got off to an extremely unlucky start getting cut off from my two best expansion possibilities (which literally had only a 1/6 chance of happening). Another player also started poorly and we both still had 2 settlements while the other two players already each had 4-5 VPs worth of cities and settlements each. So we started doing hugely helpful trades to each other - so he would give me an ore for my whole hand on one turn so he could build his first settlement. Then I gave him a brick for his entire hand to build my first city . . . and so forth. We broke off cooperation when we were both in the lead and he won but you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get other players fighting against each other. Point out who is winning and why, and convince everyone to gang up on that person until someone else gets the lead then do the same thing to that person. That can give you a lot of time to catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most important: Make sure you have some way to access wheat and ore, even if it's just a way you can expand to get them or someone who you're pretty sure will be willing to trade with you (See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6345/which-of-the-5-resources-in-settlers-of-catan-base-version-is-most-important&quot;&gt;Which of the 5 resources in Settlers of Catan (base version) is most important? Why?&lt;/a&gt;). You have many more options with these resources, whereas brick/wood strategies require either a port (preferably 2:1) or lots of expansion territory to work. I literally once won a game without any brick or wood, and without building a single road, when I was cut off early (see picture below: white, with 15 development cards)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc2yR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T14:33:32.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-04T05:03:58.720" Score="11" ViewCount="3398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic tournament rules specify that players must be able to randomize their decks in an appropriate amount of time (three minutes for pre-game procedures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/rule-of-law-battle-of-wits-is-not-tournament-legal/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;As Matt Sperling points out&lt;/a&gt;, this may be difficult with a 250-card deck. I can't even shuffle a sleeved 100-card Commander deck without splitting it in half!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBattle%20of%20Wits%5d&quot;&gt;Battle of Wits&lt;/a&gt; decks, in all their piled-high glory, have clearly seen real tournament play over the years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePQHg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A Battle of Wits deck at GP Milan, 2002&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What shuffling techniques and procedural tricks do players use to make sure their oversized decks don't violate tournament rules for proper randomization, timely shuffling, and avoiding slow play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Battle of Wits has been around for years, is there any consensus about how to handle this kind of big deck among judges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T00:31:57.570" Title="What does it take to play a Battle of Wits deck successfully at a tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-07-04T15:05:29.030" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the most important big strategy tip for Catan: there is no single winning strategy.  You must adapt to the board and to your current circumstances.  There are many possible successful strategies (e.g., roads + settlements; cities; or single resource + port), but trying to run a particular strategy in inappropriate conditions can easily lead to stagnation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the same token, there is no single essential resource.  Getting production of a variety of resources is certainly very helpful, but in my experience, it's not worth giving up very much total production to get that.  In the particular example you gave, you had one settlement that had good road production but was blocked in.  In order to take advantage of your ability to build roads, I would want to place the second settlement somewhere with decent production (probably all the good ones were taken, but the coast is usually even worse) and room for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in my experience, when players stagnate, it is most often not a result of poor initial placement, but of mistakes in the early- and mid-game play.  Here are two specific tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be &lt;strong&gt;focused&lt;/strong&gt; but &lt;strong&gt;flexible&lt;/strong&gt; in your building strategy.  Decide what you need to do to grow and do what you need to do to make that happen.  You said you bought two development cards.  That was probably a mistake -- you were blocked in, so you needed to build cities.  That means you need to save up ore and grain until you can do that.  Don't be tempted to buy something that you don't need, because it means wasting resources and slowing your development.  This is a very common way for novices to stagnate.  However, if circumstances change or the dice turn up a bunch of resources useful for another strategy, don't be afraid to change your goal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trade, trade, trade.  If you are missing a resource you need, you must trade for it.  If that means trading 4-1 with the bank, or 2-1 or even 3-1 with another player, then do that.  One resource card that lets you build something valuable is worth much more than 3 or 4 cards that don't.  Also, keep your plan in mind when trading comes around.  Suppose you don't have ore production but need to build cities -- then whenever someone is offering to trade ore, see if you can buy it.  For the first ore, it may seem futile, since you need two more, but save them up and eventually you will be able to build your city.  I should add that you should also consider trading for a resource you need even if you have good production of it but simply don't have any right now.  Mostly you will only want to do this if you can build right away with it, but in that case it can certainly be worthwhile -- a new settlement now is worth substantially more than one in one or two turns.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor that can sometimes cause stagnation is bad dice rolls.  If your production is concentrated on two or three numbers, and those number don't come up much, you won't be able to do very much.  This is not necessarily bad strategy, just high variance: sometimes you will gets lots of resources, sometimes very little.  A single game is not long enough for the randomness to reliably even out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T15:05:29.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2012-07-04T17:06:35.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Shields to be reassuring but not necessary for Round 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually having extra people, lasers or cargo space will be more beneficial. Lots of Round 1 ships can't carry the cargo on all the planets that you encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastActivityDate="2012-07-04T17:06:35.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7786" CreationDate="2012-07-05T00:26:18.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three minutes is your time limit for sideboarding, shuffling, and presentation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.3 Pregame Procedures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The following steps must be performed before each game begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players may exchange cards in their decks for cards in their sideboards. Players may only do this after the first or subsequent&#xA;  game of the match and not for games that are restarted or games that&#xA;  are drawn before any game actions are taken.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players shuffle their decks. Steps 1 and 2 may be repeated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players present their decks to their opponents for additional shuffling. The sideboard (if any) is also presented at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may not use more than three minutes to perform steps 1 through&#xA;  3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there is a specific definition that is used for &quot;shuffling&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3.9 Card Shuffling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Decks must be randomized at the start of every game and whenever an&#xA;  instruction requires it. Randomization is defined as bringing the deck&#xA;  to a state where no player can have any information regarding the&#xA;  order or position of cards in any portion of the deck. Pile shuffling&#xA;  alone is not sufficiently random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the above two into account, the official rules state that you have 3 minutes to completely randomize your deck. There is no standing consensus for how to achieve this with a massive deck. Combining two methods, such as a pile shuffle followed by a quick riffle shuffle of ~80 card stacks is generally the accepted method. A 250-card pile shuffle should take a bit less than 2 minutes for a dexterous player, so time is really tight when sideboarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another technique I have seen for shuffling massive decks is to do something similar to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split the deck into 4 piles (a,b,c,d).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle pairs of piles together (a+b, c+d)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 1-2, but shuffle the resulting 4 piles in a different combination to not arrive at the same 2 piles again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat 3 a few times, throwing an overhand shuffle or two in between.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real danger becomes when you must shuffle during the game, since shortcuts such as only shuffling the top half are not acceptable for randomization. Presenting an non-randomized deck for your opponent to cut is an easy way to rack up warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will always be times when a particularly rules-lawyering opponent will attempt to call you on slow play at 181 seconds or for taking too long to shuffle in-game, but such is the danger of having a massive deck. Just play your fastest and you should have little trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2953" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T00:31:57.570" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T00:31:57.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-05T11:09:24.667" Score="8" ViewCount="3475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which cards are most bought by players, and most often associated with winning decks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T16:34:26.367" Title="What are the most frequently used Dominion cards in winning decks?" Tags="|dominion|statistics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7790" CreationDate="2012-07-05T12:06:40.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com&quot;&gt;councilroom.com&lt;/a&gt; hosts stats for millions of online games played at &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org&quot;&gt;dominion.isotropic.org&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's currently down but it should give you the most accurate answer when it goes back up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache%3apXRICOKWFAYJ%3acouncilroom.com/openings?card=All%2bcards%20&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;ct=clnk&quot;&gt;ranking of the best openings&lt;/a&gt; from google's cache&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastEditorUserId="2346" LastEditDate="2012-07-05T12:24:57.977" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T12:24:57.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7790" CreationDate="2012-07-05T16:34:26.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card that immediately pops to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5VYIM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chapel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/11/17/dominion-chapel/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an article&lt;/a&gt; on dominionstrategy.com which outlines why this card is considered the best in the game. No other card allows you to shape your deck so quickly and early, ensuring you get useful and powerful draws to ramp up your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the best openings ranking linked by Dor Shemer, you'll see many openings at the top of the list that include Chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-07-05T16:34:26.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7956" CreationDate="2012-07-05T18:08:15.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SWOT_analysis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SWOT&lt;/a&gt; stands for (an analysis of) strengths, weaknesses, opportunities, threats. There are four &amp;quot;fields&amp;quot; and yes, four suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example from this deal, which came up in today's New York Post. West opened 1 diamond, South doubled (takeout), and later bid 4 hearts after North's (forced) response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          Jxxxx&#xA;          QT&#xA;          Jxx&#xA;          Qxx&#xA;&#xA;KQxx              xx&#xA;xx                xx&#xA;AKQTx             xxx&#xA;xx                KT9xxx&#xA;&#xA;          Ax &#xA;          AKJxxxx&#xA;          xx&#xA;          AJ&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trump suit is solid, that is a strength. There are two diamond losers, that's an obvious weakness. With seven trump tricks and two black aces, the club suit an represents opportunity for the 10th trick the QJ together are worth one trick. The spade suit is the threat, you don't want a spade loser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After south ruffs the third diamond, he should lead the jack of clubs to either steal a trick or force out the king. He then wins any return, draws trumps in dummy, and leads the Q of clubs to discard his low spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But South played A, then J in clubs, and went down when East won and led back a club for West to ruff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does SWOT analysis make it easier to focus on where the &amp;quot;problem&amp;quot; lies in the hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-02-22T17:36:57.707" LastActivityDate="2021-02-22T17:36:57.707" Title="Can &quot;SWOT&quot; analysis be useful in bridge" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7796" CreationDate="2012-07-05T23:51:33.860" Score="5" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rarely purchase 1-Rune cards. Their effects are pretty poor, and I feel that these cards lower my deck strength (Note: I'm a recovering &lt;strong&gt;Dominion&lt;/strong&gt; addict, and a strong believer in &quot;trash early; trash often&quot; strategies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might buy a 1-Rune card if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I won't get through my deck before the game is over, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are quite a few on the board and I have a bunch to spend (here I'm&#xA;hoping that a higher cost card will come up).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When, if ever, is it a good idea to buy 1-Rune cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Edit - I had confused &quot;Rune&quot; with &quot;Honor&quot;. I mean the Resource that the Apprentice provides, and which is the COST of adding a card to your deck)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-07-06T05:57:42.920" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T07:02:00.170" Title="When to buy cards costing 1 &quot;Rune&quot; in Ascension?" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-06T00:03:13.117" Score="4" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the title says. Does this change over the course of the game (example, when you hire followers, when a wizard/witch/monk join your party)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the average gold earned per day using the most efficient strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-07-06T00:53:29.913" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T00:53:29.913" Title="What is the most time-efficient way to earn gold in Barbarian Prince?" Tags="|statistics|barbarian-prince|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7794" CreationDate="2012-07-06T07:11:16.510" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When, if ever, is it a good idea to buy 1-Rune cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost always. If &lt;strong&gt;Chapel&lt;/strong&gt; in Dominion has taught you anything, it is that trashing the chaff from your deck makes you much more likely to draw the good cards in your deck. For this reason, you should almost always buy &lt;strong&gt;Void Initiate&lt;/strong&gt;. This is especially true early in the game, when you have a high density of &lt;strong&gt;Apprentice&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;strong&gt;Militia&lt;/strong&gt; cards that are the polluting your deck (which are also worth 0 Honor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For similar reasons, you should almost always buy &lt;strong&gt;Arha Initiate&lt;/strong&gt;. It gains you 1 Honor (half the cost of a &lt;strong&gt;Heavy Infantry&lt;/strong&gt;, and a third the cost of a &lt;strong&gt;Mystic&lt;/strong&gt; and replaces itself when drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZoFR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Void Initiate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bbrq7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Arha Initiate&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lifebound Initiate&lt;/strong&gt; isn't a bad card, but buying a copy isn't a no brainer like Void and Arha Initiate cards are. This card becomes much better with other Lifebound Cards in your deck, and other Void/(Enlightened) cards that strip your deck of the chaff/(draw more) and make you draw into your Lifebound cards more often&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gyyF2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Lifebound Initiate&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PEGfR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mechana Initiate&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechana Initiate&lt;/strong&gt; is the worst of the bunch. I would almost never buy this card. The flexibility of adding Runes or Power doesn't seem that great. Perhaps if enough &lt;strong&gt;Burrower Mark II&lt;/strong&gt; (Draw 1 first Mechana) or &lt;strong&gt;Rocket Courier X-99&lt;/strong&gt; (When acquire Mechana put into play) and other Mechana cards are available in the center row, then I might consider it, but usually I would pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regarding holding off on buying a Heavy Infantry instead of an Initiate to prevent an opponent gaining a better card&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real way to calculate this would be to figure out how likely a &lt;strong&gt;good card&lt;/strong&gt; would come up, when your opponent wouldn't have had access to the card if they had to buy the Initiate themselves. For example, imagine if our opponent has 5 Runes worth of cards in their hand and 2 Power. There are 48 cards left in the center deck, (one of each different name). Lets assume for the moment that all the cards showing in the center row have 3 Power or more, and are 6 Runes or more. By not buying the Initiate, you have the possibility of the new center card being a 5 Rune cost card, that your opponent wouldn't have been able to purchase if you hadn't removed the initiate from the center row for them. Since their are only 5 cards that cost 5 Runes ( &lt;strong&gt;Ascetic of the Lidless Eye, Flytrap Witch, Snapdragon, Watchmaker's Altar, Voidthirster&lt;/strong&gt;) out of 48  5/48 = 10% of the time you help your opponent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking, 3 of those 5 cards only gain you 2 Honor anyway. If the game was close to ending, and no one would be able to shuffle anyway, those 3 wouldn't matter (they could have just bought a Mystic and Heavy Infantry instead). If you had exactly 2 Runes though, it would be more likely in this scenario that you would draw one of the 4x Initiates to replace the Initiate in the center row. So you should probably buy the Initiate anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-06T07:54:09.983" LastActivityDate="2012-07-06T07:54:09.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2652" CreationDate="2012-07-06T12:57:51.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd advise against basing your system on oversimplified YGO rules. These phases that seem arbitrary were added precisely to avoid adding many exceptions and forcing players to remember them all. Having regular rules with such a gigantic deck is much better than writing exceptions on card and then have lots of pain trying to match them together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, historically first versions of YGO were much simpler and very close to what you describe, which can be seen from many legacy normal and fusion cards. Instead of the fun and dynamic game of today it was just a race to see who would draw or fuse a card with the highest ATK on the board first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3025" LastEditorUserId="3677" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T06:03:18.107" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T06:03:18.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7800" CreationDate="2012-07-06T14:58:34.647" Score="22" ViewCount="39033" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm constructing an Eldrazi based deck and I'm thinking about possible ways of getting one onto the table. What I already considered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Summoning%20Trap&quot;&gt;Summoning Trap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=191380&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymorph&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any other cards like these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I'm talking about the &amp;quot;big three&amp;quot; Legendary Eldrazi -- &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulamog%2C%20the%20Infinite%20Gyre&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kozilek%2C%20Butcher%20of%20Truth&quot;&gt;Kozilek, Butcher of Truth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T01:44:06.333" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T13:20:30.457" Title="What cards can be used to cheat Eldrazi creatures onto the table?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2012-07-06T15:09:33.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a non-comprehensive list of additional ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Braids%2C%20Conjurer%20Adept&quot;&gt;Braids, Conjurer Adept&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Call%20of%20the%20Wild&quot;&gt;Call of the Wild&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defense%20of%20the%20Heart&quot;&gt;Defense of the Heart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dream%20Halls&quot;&gt;Dream Halls&lt;/a&gt; (with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Painter%27s%20Servant&quot;&gt;Painter&amp;#39;s Servant&lt;/a&gt;)*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Djinn%20of%20Wishes&quot;&gt;Djinn of Wishes&lt;/a&gt;*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Piper&quot;&gt;Elvish Piper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eureka&quot;&gt;Eureka&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypergenesis&quot;&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Impromptu%20Raid&quot;&gt;Impromptu Raid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jhoira%20of%20the%20Ghitu&quot;&gt;Jhoira of the Ghitu&lt;/a&gt;*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Killer%20Instinct&quot;&gt;Killer Instinct&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lurking%20Predators&quot;&gt;Lurking Predators&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Myojin%20of%20Life%27s%20Web&quot;&gt;Myojin of Life&amp;#39;s Web&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Druids&quot;&gt;Oath of Druids&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pattern%20of%20Rebirth&quot;&gt;Pattern of Rebirth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primal%20Surge&quot;&gt;Primal Surge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Proteus%20Staff&quot;&gt;Proteus Staff&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Show%20and%20Tell&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sneak%20Attack&quot;&gt;Sneak Attack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tooth%20and%20Nail&quot;&gt;Tooth and Nail&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Triassic%20Egg&quot;&gt;Triassic Egg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* — The creature card is cast, so you get a free turn from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T17:15:36.433" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T17:15:36.433" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2012-07-06T15:35:20.183" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you mean the &quot;big three&quot; Legendary Eldrazi -- &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Aeons%20Torn%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%2c%20the%20Infinite%20Gyre%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKozilek%2c%20Butcher%20of%20Truth%5d&quot;&gt;Kozilek, Butcher of Truth&lt;/a&gt;. If you want &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; Eldrazi, like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPathrazer%20of%20Ulamog%5d&quot;&gt;Pathrazer of Ulamog&lt;/a&gt;, you can always use reanimation spells. These three, however, have the persnickety clause:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When {card name} is put into a graveyard from anywhere, its owner shuffles his or her graveyard into his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, you have to use instant-speed reanimation, cheat on costs, or hardcast them normally using obscene mana acceleration (which is basically &quot;cheating them out&quot; for most intents and purposes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;proven competitive decks&lt;/strong&gt; that do this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legacy &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Sneak and Show&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShow%20and%20Tell%5d&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSneak%20Attack%5d&quot;&gt;Sneak Attack&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modern &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Tron&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; decks, using the power of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?type=%20%5Burza%5D%20%5BLand%5D%7C%7Csubtype=%20%5Burza%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UrzaTron&lt;/a&gt; (Urza's Mine, Urza's Tower, and Urza's Power-Plant, which produce 7 mana from three lands) to hardcast Eldrazi. Basically you use lots of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSylvan%20Scrying%5d&quot;&gt;Sylvan Scrying&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExpedition%20Map%5d&quot;&gt;Expedition Map&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGifts%20Ungiven%5d&quot;&gt;Gifts Ungiven&lt;/a&gt; to set up the Tron, and then go crazy with Eldrazi, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWurmcoil%20Engine%5d&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt;. Some of these decks also run &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThrough%20the%20Breach%5d&quot;&gt;Through the Breach&lt;/a&gt; as a backup plan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before banning, Modern had &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Twelvepost&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; which used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloudpost%5d&quot;&gt;Cloudpost&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlimmerpost%5d&quot;&gt;Glimmerpost&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVesuva%5d&quot;&gt;Vesuva&lt;/a&gt;, like a faster and more consistent Tron.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before banning, Modern also had &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; using cascade tricks to set up a super-fast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHypergenesis%5d&quot;&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legacy &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Elves&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; is an occasionally-successful but easy-to-hate deck that chains a ton of mana dorks, usually with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlimpse%20of%20Nature%5d&quot;&gt;Glimpse of Nature&lt;/a&gt;, to hardcast Emrakul.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vintage has &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Oath&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; which uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOath%20of%20Druids%5d&quot;&gt;Oath of Druids&lt;/a&gt; (banned in Legacy) to cheat out Eldrazi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can take inspiration from a variety of other decks that access huge amounts of mana, such as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;High Tide&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Amulet of Vigor&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Enchantress&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; (via &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=9674&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Serra's Sanctum&lt;/a&gt;, mainly), and &quot;&lt;strong&gt;MUD&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; (via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMetalworker%5d&quot;&gt;Metalworker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloudpost%5d&quot;&gt;Cloudpost&lt;/a&gt;). Many of these don't actually need a card like Emrakul to win but sometimes play it anyway because it goes &quot;over the top&quot; of many other strategies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other approaches I've seen used (ranked in approximate order of jankiness):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWindbrisk%20Heights%5d&quot;&gt;Windbrisk Heights&lt;/a&gt; and a lot of weenies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSummoning%20Trap%5d&quot;&gt;Summoning Trap&lt;/a&gt; (works well as Plan B in the Windbrisk Heights deck).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=191380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymorph&lt;/a&gt; and a bunch of token-generating cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLingering%20Souls%5d&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt; (which make creatures on the battlefield but aren't creature cards themselves).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instant-speed reanimation with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74475&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goryo's Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3310&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shallow Grave&lt;/a&gt;. The classic reanimator spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExhume%5d&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnburial%20Rites%5d&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt; don't work because the big three shuffle themselves back into your library, but you can still use Goryo's Vengeance &lt;em&gt;in response&lt;/em&gt; to the trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fist of Suns&lt;/a&gt; in a five-color deck, to make them all cost WUBRG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Piper%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Piper&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuicksilver%20Amulet%5d&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Amulet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a top-tier tournament deck, I recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sneak and Show for Legacy: it was totally the top deck for a while. Main down side is that it was totally the top deck for a while, of course, so many players know how to play against it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G/R Tron for Modern. Faster and more consistent than the other Tron decks, and pretty cheap to put together, especially if you already own the Eldrazi. The main down side is that it is pretty weak against some of the other combo decks (like Storm) and hyper-aggressive decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a deck to play at &quot;casual&quot; tables, my recommendation is a Windbrisk Heights + Summoning Trap deck. It's still very powerful but not as obviously &quot;unfair&quot; as the tournament combo decks &amp;mdash; some players vehemently dislike seeing turn-3 Karn every other game &amp;mdash; and the aggressive/midrange creatures give you a decent fallback plan even if the whole table is dedicated to hating out your combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T13:20:30.457" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T13:20:30.457" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2012-07-07T02:23:04.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shields are not very effective during the first round.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it should be noted that the negative effects of the Pirate, and the Combat Zone adventure cards are some what avoidable. In the Pirate encounter case, if you make sure that your ship has 5+ Laser power, you will not be shot at. With the Combat Zone, you just need to make sure that you don't have the least Laser power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you need to figure out the odds of drawing that particular Adventure Card. The chances that you will actually draw a particular adventure card during the first round is 8/20 = 40%, if you don't look at the Adventure cards. Since a single shield component can either face up or down. The majority of the small laser fire, and small meteors come from the front, so you should probably orient the shield to face forward. If you do place a shield component, and you happen to draw the Pirate encounter and you don't have the required 5 Laser power, your shield will only be effective 24/36 = 66.7% of the time for each small laser (since rolling 2-4 or 10-12 misses your ship anyway). This means, that if you don't look at any of the adventure cards, you are only going to effectively block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Block 0 Small Shots: (60%) not drawn + (40%) x (12/36) x (12/36) = 64.4%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Block 1 Small Shots: (40%) x 2 x (12/36) x (24/36) = 17.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Block 2 Small Shots: (40%) x (24/36) x (24/36) = 17.8%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                ___&#xA;11.1% 5     ___|   |___&#xA;13.9% 6 ___|    ___    |___&#xA;16.7% 7|       |___|       |&#xA;13.9% 8|        ___        |&#xA;11.1% 9|___ ___|   |___ ___|&#xA;         5   6   7   8   9&#xA;        11% 14% 17% 14% 11%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly 65% of the time, it wouldn't matter if you bought a shield or not and only 18% of the time you would have prevented 1 lost component, and 18% of the time you would prevent 2 lost components. This isn't a completely accurate though. It depends a player in-front of you defeats the Pirate encounter for 4 Credits, or you draw the Pirate adventure card before drawing one of the other Meteor Cards. If you draw the Meteor Cards after you draw the Pirate encounter, then your shield is more likely to be effective, but not that much more effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you where shot from the front, and later draw any of the &lt;strong&gt;Meteor&lt;/strong&gt; cards, you have an increased chance of losing another component because of additional exposed connectors. The increased chances are only the chances that you roll the same column/row of the component that got blasted from the front. For example, if lasers destroyed 7 &amp;amp; 8 from the front (Note: Getting hit 2 or more times from the Purple encounter happens about 30% of the time), then if you draw the Lss (TLR) Meteor card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Meteor No Hit: (26/36) x (26/36) = 52.2%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Meteor Hit 1x 6/8: 2 x (10/36) x (26/36) = 40.1%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Meteor Hit 2x 6/8: (10/36) x (10/36) = 7.72%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only have a another 50% chance of getting hit again by a small meteor one or more times. I won't work out the exact math, but realize that the odds of losing extra pieces from small meteors is fairly small (60% of the time it won't be in the adventure deck. When it is, only half the time you will draw the Meteor card &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the Pirate encounter, and finally even if you do draw the Pirate encounter first only half that time will you be hit by a small meteor hitting an exposed connector).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do look at the adventure cards, and neither of the cards are in the 6 cards, you only have an additional 14.3% chance that the Pirate card will be in the remaining 2 Adventure cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you should probably avoid placing a Shield component. The only exception would be if you saw the Pirate encounter or the Combat Zone card, and you were unable to meet the requirements of 5+ Laser or not the least laser power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-07T02:23:04.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7803" CreationDate="2012-07-08T22:30:51.237" Score="7" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the Agricola family ruleset, when a card specifically refers to &quot;minor improvements&quot; (for example &quot;After family growth, play a minor improvement&quot;), do I  ignore it or interpret it as &quot;play a Major improvement&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2955" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T01:21:21.503" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T01:21:21.503" Title="Do minor improvement actions have any meaning in the family version of Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7802" CreationDate="2012-07-08T23:27:03.803" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/agricola/Agricola_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are pretty clear, the Minor Improvement cards are not used, so you ignore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Agricola as a Family Game (for 1-5 people from 10 years)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the simplified version of Agricola, the Occupation and &lt;strong&gt;Minor Improvement cards are not used&lt;/strong&gt; - players do not have a hand of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first game board is turned face down, showing the &amp;quot;Agricola Family Game&amp;quot; side, and in a 3-5 player game only the &amp;quot;Family Game&amp;quot; Action cards are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Major or Minor Improvement action is restricted to Major Improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, the rules are the same as for the full game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-08T23:27:03.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-09T03:56:37.383" Score="6" ViewCount="1896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love Dominion Prosperity, and understand all of the cards perfectly except for Peddler.  Can anyone explain it to me?  For some reason I just can't get it. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3028" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T04:21:29.063" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T06:09:04.563" Title="Need help with the Peddler card in Dominion Prosperity" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7804" CreationDate="2012-07-09T06:01:15.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQi2s.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Peddler&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3bPph.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Market&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peddler is a market without the +Buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would have been an unremarkable card if not for its unique price. The standard price is $8, which is the priciest action in the game, but you never really want to buy it at that cost. The below-the-line part reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During your Buy phase, this costs $2 less per Action card you have in&#xA;  play, but not less than $0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that for every action you play in your turn, the price of Peddler goes down by $2 in the Buy phase, so if you played two Villages, for example, you can buy a Peddler for $4, which is a much more reasonable price for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the more Actions you play in your turn the better it gets, and the more Buys you have the more free Peddlers you can get - if you play four or more actions, each additional buy is a free Peddler! Also note the phrasing &lt;code&gt;Action card you have *in play*&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;, which means that a duration card from the previous turn (Caravan, Fishing Village, etc.) also counts as a cost reducer. The self-synergy of Peddler is also pretty nice, since the more Peddlers you have, the more you can play per turn thus lowering the price of Peddlers to buy more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The icing on the cake is that fact that unlike Bridge, the price only goes down during the Buy phase, so you can Remodel a Peddler into a Province no matter how many actions you already played during your turn, since its price is always $8 during the Action phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, you can read more in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/11/25/prosperity-peddler/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;great Dominion Strategy guide&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastEditorUserId="2346" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T06:09:04.563" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T06:09:04.563" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7811" CreationDate="2012-07-09T06:41:16.160" Score="9" ViewCount="8730" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook: &quot;Sorcerers can conquer a Region by substituting one of your opponent's Active tokens with one of your own taken from the storage tray&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, is the lost tribe token consider an opponent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastEditorUserId="2399" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T06:47:54.717" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T00:19:52.653" Title="Smallworld: Can the sorcerer's ability be used on a lost tribe token?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7806" CreationDate="2012-07-09T06:48:19.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sorcerer's power can not be used on the Lost Tribe tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/391216/what-we-know-so-far-clarification-of-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/391216/what-we-know-so-far-clarification-of-rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T06:48:19.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7814" CreationDate="2012-07-09T18:34:22.560" Score="8" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played Kingdom Builder a few times.  What should I be looking for when placing my first couple settlements?  Are there synergies between the scoring rules and bonus abilities to consider?  How much should I avoid being adjacent to multiple terrains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T06:01:26.390" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T22:07:44.250" Title="What considerations are important for initial placements in Kingdom Builder?" Tags="|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7809" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-07-09T19:11:56.630" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T19:11:56.630" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T19:11:56.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7810" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-07-09T19:11:56.630" Score="0" Body="Kingdom Builder is a Spiel des Jahres winning board game by Donald Vaccarino.  " OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2012-07-09T21:01:52.853" LastActivityDate="2012-07-09T21:01:52.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7806" CreationDate="2012-07-10T00:19:52.653" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lost tribe tokens are neither an active race nor under the control of an opponent, so they clearly can't be the target of the sorcerors' ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T00:19:52.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2012-07-10T02:11:37.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been reading quite a bit about how to counter the BM strategy but so far the most popular answer was to use BM with another singleton card like smithy or library. While I am absolutely confident that this is true, something about it still rubs me the wrong way. If the only way to defeat a single strategy is to use a slight variant of it, then isn't the game still off balance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess what I am trying to articulate is that more often than not, the more conservative a strategy is, the better. I was hoping for Dominion to offer a much wider range of strategic avenues. If BM+1Smithy is going to pick up the win by turn 14, then my question is this; is there another strategy that is as effective and reliable as this one? Is Dominion a more strategically dry game than I had anticipated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3030" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T02:11:37.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7808" CreationDate="2012-07-10T07:37:24.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first turn is basically a trade-off between getting the best bonus tile (given the scoring goals in play) and minimising the risk of getting trapped, by avoiding placing in a large area of one terrain and making as few adjacencies as possible. It's often possible to do this in such a way that the bonus tile you claim guarantees you another tile next turn, regardless of your card draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3035" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T07:37:24.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7816" CreationDate="2012-07-10T15:03:37.790" Score="18" ViewCount="2765" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the highest scores are tied at the end of the game, the tied player who has had the fewest turns wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What advantages does the first player have over the other players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these advantages overcome the detriment of losing in a tie when the other player has had fewer turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effect does the number of players have on the advantage/disadvantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1375" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T12:01:09.033" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T12:01:09.033" Title="Is it advantageous to go first in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7815" CreationDate="2012-07-10T18:02:37.067" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is certainly advantageous to go first in Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some good threads about first player advantage on the DominionStrategy forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what Donald X thinks about &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=91.0&quot;&gt;first player advantage&lt;/a&gt;.  Donald X actually underrates first player advantage based on faulty understanding of optimal play with a disadvantage (his &quot;proof&quot; seems to require symmetric play, which is not optimal under the asymmetry that first player advantage can induce) and hence he understates the advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an expert player stating the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=1467.0&quot;&gt; reasons for first player advantage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also copious data supporting the idea that first player has an advantage.  Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=20.msg438#msg438&quot;&gt;some data analysis&lt;/a&gt; I did that corrects for second player is better confounding problem @Jefromi mentions.  It says that first player advantage is worth about 2 or 3 points overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T18:49:36.713" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T18:49:36.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7818" CreationDate="2012-07-10T19:16:21.027" Score="13" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there dice that have both positive and negative numbers, where the average result is zero?  I'm imagining a die labeled something like: -2, -1, 0, +1, +2.  I feel like I've seen dice like this, but I'm not sure what they'd be called or how to find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-12-17T17:50:59.113" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T17:50:59.113" Title="Dice with an average roll of zero?" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7817" CreationDate="2012-07-10T19:29:00.067" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most commonly available ones are called &lt;strong&gt;Fudge dice&lt;/strong&gt;, as used in the Fudge/FATE roleplaying games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Fudge die is a six-sided die with the following sides: minus, minus, blank, blank, plus, plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games generally have players rolling a couple of Fudge dice together and adding them up, which creates a curved probability distribution centered around zero. 3dF, for example, gives you a range from -3 to +3, with 0 as the mean, median, and mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fudge_%28role-playing_game_system%29#Fudge_dice&quot;&gt;This Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; has more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T12:55:16.423" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T12:55:16.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7822" CreationDate="2012-07-10T20:18:06.120" Score="2" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;In  Survive: Escape from Atlantis, are the whales and sharks left out of the map during setup? Do they only appear when flipping &quot;play immediately&quot; whale or shark tile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:03:57.273" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T01:03:57.273" Title="Survive Escape from Atlantis: whales and sharks setup" Tags="|game-setup|escape-from-atlantis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7821" CreationDate="2012-07-10T20:22:06.147" Score="3" ViewCount="3806" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a race in decline and choose to decline my current race, do I score both races or just the new race in decline? I am assuming that just the new race, since we (normally) cannot have two races in decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastActivityDate="2018-09-01T01:18:26.850" Title="Smallworld: scoring points during decline of second race" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7820" CreationDate="2012-07-10T21:30:49.537" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, when you choose to decline your current race, the previous markers of the previous race in decline are immediately removed and not scored (Unless of course the previous race in decline has the Spirit special power.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;em&gt;Entering in Decline&lt;/em&gt; on page 6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;. Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player can only have a single race In Decline on the map&#xA;  at any given time. &lt;strong&gt;If the player still has tokens from an earlier&#xA;  In Decline race left on the map, those are all immediately&#xA;  removed from the map and placed back in the storage tray,&#xA;  before flipping the new tokens into Decline.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Race banner of the now vanished race is placed at the&#xA;  bottom of the stack of Race banners, or in the lowest empty&#xA;  slot in the banner column, if any. The same is also done when&#xA;  the last token of a race In Decline is wiped off the map as the&#xA;  result of their last Region being conquered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player can make no conquests during the turn his race&#xA;  goes into decline; his turn ends immediately after scoring! He&#xA;  gains 1 Victory coin for each Region his &lt;strong&gt;newly In Decline tokens&#xA;  occupy,&lt;/strong&gt; but unless stated otherwise, he scores no Victory coins&#xA;  from his now In Decline Race banner power or discarded Special&#xA;  Power benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-07-10T21:36:33.653" LastActivityDate="2012-07-10T21:36:33.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7819" CreationDate="2012-07-10T21:42:11.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, those creatures only appear when you flip a tile with the aforementioned creature. This is different than the Sea Monsters, that begin on the board at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nearly &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/59113/stronghold-games-2010-edition-near-final-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;complete rules&lt;/a&gt;, which a BGG commentor stated have not changed says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Set aside the Shark, Whale, and remaining Boat tokens for now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T01:51:12.383" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T01:51:12.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2549" CreationDate="2012-07-11T04:35:40.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gruntz.biz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gruntz&lt;/a&gt; is a sci-fi, build-your-own-units/mecha/etc, miniature wargame. It's based on 15mm miniatures so that might not fit your desires, but you could possibly just double all of the length measurements if you're playing with 28mm/30mm minis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played Gruntz so I do not know how well it plays, is balanced, etc., but the one battle report I've read makes it look interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3041" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T04:35:40.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7815" CreationDate="2012-07-11T13:39:36.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many advantages to going first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 3rd turn is safe from attacks.  For instance in a game where people will discard down to 3 &quot;every&quot; turn, you will get 3 turns of playing with 5 cards, while everyone else will get 2.  This advantage can be very significant as dominion lead can snowball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have the most chances to give away curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have first dibs at all piles.  If any pile of good cards runs out you have a chance to have the most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a province and end the game denying everyone more turns.  So in a game where everyone is tied after an equal number of turns with 1 province left, you can take a province and win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tiebreaker in no way offsets this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend letting everyone take the same number of turns, and letting players buy virtual cards from depleted piles on the last round.  Even with this and the tie breaker i do not feel like it funny offsets the first turn advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that may help more than going first is 3/4 vs 5/2 but that is fixed pretty easily&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T13:39:36.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7826" CreationDate="2012-07-11T14:19:43.310" Score="5" ViewCount="8284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created my first cube during the last week. It's been fun and I'm eager to try it out. There's just one thing... How do I store it? The goal size is about 540 cards without basic lands. I guess I need about 200 basics too. For now I'll keep all cards except the basics in sleeves permanently but I might sleeve up the lands too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you found any better boxes than those that comes with booster packs or shoe boxes (too big)? Do you keep all basic lands sleeved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T00:01:55.410" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T03:38:59.467" Title="How can I store all of the cards for my MtG Cube?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|storage|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2012-07-11T14:55:33.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cardboard boxes that come with &quot;fat packs&quot; are sturdy, reasonably portable, and visually appealing. I don't think one can hold 750 sleeved cards, but two should be sufficient. Third-party online shops often resell just the boxes individually for a few dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players are going to need to sleeve up their basic lands anyway, so I see no reason not to put sleeves on them ahead of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're a perfectionist looking to make your Cube contain absolutely everything needed for play, your box could also include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appropriate tokens for the cards in your cube (unsleeved or using different-color sleeves, to avoid confusion).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few extra sleeves to replace any that get damaged in play (not the biggest deal because you can always just steal sleeves from a few basic lands, but still handy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life dice and counters (to save space and weight, small d6s are probably better than colored beads).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T14:55:33.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7828" CreationDate="2012-07-11T18:31:12.597" Score="3" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to choose an army for Warhammer Fantasy. Over the last few weeks I brought it down to 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarfs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bretonnians&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Empire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like their lore and models and the possible coloring, but I can't decide on one. I'm a total beginner at Warhammer, but maybe someone can help me out by providing strengths and weaknesses of these armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I know to help me choose which of these armies I should start building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3043" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T10:34:07.007" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T10:34:07.007" Title="What are the differences between Dwarves Brets and Empire in WHFB 8th ed" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7827" CreationDate="2012-07-11T19:01:27.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the stack exchange format doesn't really facilitate &quot;discussion&quot; but I'll try to give you an answer of objective statements that might help inform a decision!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bretonnia: The army book is from 2003, so are most of the models.  There aren't even any rumors that there will be an update soon.  Heavy Cavalry overall was significantly weakened in the eighth (current) edition core rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dwarves: Army book authors try to spice it up a little bit, but fundamentally this army is about blocks of tough little dudes who trundle forward slowly while they shoot you up.  Some players are really into the thematic elements and love the traditional high fantasy dwarfy legion.  Others think it's just plain boring to have an army that spends a lot of its game turns saying &quot;walk forward, shoot, your turn go.&quot;  You have to decide which you are.&#xA;Dwarves also tend to be covered head to toe in metal, which makes them an easy army to paint to a nice table top standard for beginning hobbyists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Empire: Has a lot of variety and effective armies can be built in many different ways.  Swarms infantry, check, elite infantry, check, cavalry, check, shootiness, check, magic, check.  The downside of that is that there are also plenty of combinations that &lt;em&gt;aren't&lt;/em&gt; effective and you can end up owning a lot of expensive models that you don't use if you shop without a plan towards a final working army list.  Look at army lists on a Warhammer discussion forum and maybe seek some advice on an army list, then build a shopping list from that.  (Unless you're just rich or something, then go to town)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WHFB vs WH40K is totally a regional thing.  Different cities/stores have different balances of # of people playing one game or the other and it shifts around over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T19:01:27.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7693" CreationDate="2012-07-11T20:35:56.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to capture a territory with a land unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have your choice of which units to sacrifice. Meaning that if you want the territory, you need to sacrifice more expensive sea and/or air units to preserve the last land unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, the territory is not worth it. Then what you have achieved is destroying your opponent's units on the territory for the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the so-called &quot;infantry push mechanic&quot; is to attack a territory with enough infantry so that you will have infantry left to take it over AFTER absorbing battle losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T20:35:56.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7677" CreationDate="2012-07-11T20:41:12.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 13 high card points, you can count 1 for the doubleton, for a total of 14, because of ruffing potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The QJ are both &quot;stranded,&quot; meaning that they can fall to AK because there are no low cards to protect them. For that reason, I would deduct one point from each, counting 1 for the Q and 0 for the J. Making this adjustment reduces the value of your hand to 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KQ is worth 4, not 5, because the Q is fodder for an opposing ace. It's worth a bit more than Kx (3 points) but not two whole points more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T20:41:12.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7657" CreationDate="2012-07-11T20:52:29.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shuck-shuck strategy is an application of the so-called &quot;infantry push&quot; mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;America holds the balance of power in this game. Nevertheless, the Allies can lose if America spends her building points on say, airplanes, and gets unlucky. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3667/can-the-u-s-open-with-an-air-based-strategy-in-allies-and-axis&quot;&gt;Can the U.S. Open With an Air-based Strategy in Allies and Axis?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy for a &quot;guaranteed&quot; American win was expounded by Don Rae: &lt;a href=&quot;http://draidin.com/websites/AAEssays/Index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://draidin.com/websites/AAEssays/Index.html&lt;/a&gt;. Since infantry are the most efficient resource, the secret is for America to manufacture mostly infantry (and transports), and dump them in key spots in the Atlantic. This could be North Africa or Norway. If you fancy an invasion of France that might work. But the whole idea is to build up an impenetrable defense line that the Germans can't cross. Once this is done, the superior number of Allies' IPCs will prevail, unless they are VERY unlucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T14:01:29.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7604" CreationDate="2012-07-11T21:05:00.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd learn the chances for the roll combinations. There are 36 possible rolls, (let's say of one red and one green die) as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;6-6:  1/36&#xA;11:   2/36 (two 6-5s)&#xA;5-5:  1/36&#xA;10:   2/36 (two 6-4s)&#xA;9:    4/36 (two 6-3s, two 5-4s)&#xA;4-4:  1/36&#xA;8:    4/36 (two 6-2s, two 5-3s)&#xA;7:    6/36 (two 6-1s, two 5-2s, two 4-3s)&#xA;3-3:  1/36&#xA;6:    4/36 (two 5-1s, two 4-2s)&#xA;5:    4/36 (two 4-1s, two 3-2s)&#xA;2-2:  1/36&#xA;4:    2/36 (two 3-1s)&#xA;3:    2/36 (two 2-1s)&#xA;1-1:  1/36&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-07-11T22:00:32.057" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T22:00:32.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7720" CreationDate="2012-07-11T21:11:33.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one player were clearly one stone weaker, he would ALWAYS take Black (with a &quot;free&quot; first move). If the players were regarded as even in strength, they would alternate taking Black. There was even an &quot;intermediate&quot; handicap where the weaker player would take Black, say, two times out of three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T21:11:33.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2012-07-11T21:18:28.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go to Chinatowns, particularly in New York or San Francisco, you can find games played for money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of them are run honestly, in other places, you might get robbed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-11T21:18:28.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2012-07-12T01:24:48.217" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably, the best way to store a cube is in a properly sized corrugated trading card box. These boxes are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcwsupplies.com/products/corrugated-storage-boxes/trading-card-storage-boxes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fairly cheap&lt;/a&gt;, and with your local friendly game store's 100% markup, they shouldn't run you more than a couple dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UmD9j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Corrugated TCG Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't use booster pack boxes or shoe boxes. Booster boxes are too flimsy, because the are designed for display purposes. You might spill your cards everywhere. Shoeboxes do not have trading card dimensions (Each MtG card is approximately 63 x 88 mm in size), so it will be more difficult to keep the cards in order as you will have several stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would sleeve all your cards, including the basic lands. You will eventually need to play with the basic lands after the cube draft, so you will save everyone some time by having all the basic lands sleeved identically to the cube draft cards. As far as sizing your corrugated trading card box, that just comes down to some simple math:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I am using 288 microns for MtG card thickness, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=420153&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtgsalvation thread&lt;/a&gt;. The Wikipedia page says 305 microns, but the information isn't cited either. The difference is only 0.5&quot; for 740 cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|                |Thickness|      | Total | Total  | Total  |&#xA;|Card/Sleeve Type|(microns)|#Cards| (cm)  | (inch) |Sleeved |&#xA;+----------------+---------+------+-------+--------+--------+&#xA;|Magic Card      |     288 |  740 | 21.29 |  8.384 |  8.38&quot; |&#xA;|Unnamed (thick) |     110 |  740 |  8.14 |  3.205 | 14.8&quot;  | &#xA;|Unnamed (thick) |     110 |  540 |  5.94 |  2.339 |        |&#xA;|Dragon Shield   |     100 |  740 |  7.4  |  2.913 | 14.2&quot;  |&#xA;|Dragon Shield   |     100 |  540 |  5.4  |  2.126 |        |&#xA;|Mayday Premium  |      90 |  740 |  6.66 |  2.622 | 13.6&quot;  |&#xA;|Mayday Premium  |      90 |  540 |  4.86 |  1.913 |        |&#xA;|&quot;Penny&quot; (thin)  |      40 |  740 |  2.96 |  1.165 | 10.7&quot;  |&#xA;|&quot;Penny&quot; (thin)  |      40 |  540 |  2.16 |  0.850 |        |&#xA;+----------------+---------+------+-------+--------+--------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't sleeve the cards at all, you will need a corrugated box with 8.38 inches interior space. Depending upon &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/627681/mayday-games-standard-card-sleeve-equivalent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;what thickness sleeves&lt;/a&gt; you are using, your cube will fit somewhere between 11&quot;-15&quot; (sleeve thickness doubled, since there are 2 sides). You can get a box that fits your cube snugly, or a slightly longer box so it is easier to remove cards. You can always use deckboxes to pad the extra space, or split the cube from the basic lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some testing with some penny sleeves I had, to verify some of the above numbers. 100 penny sleeves were about 1/2&quot;, so sleeving 740 should be about 3.75&quot;, which is quite a bit higher than the 2.33&quot; estimate (after doubling thickness). The largest corrugated boxes sold have just over a 14&quot; interior length, so you might have to store your basic lands in a different box than your cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-12T05:48:10.737" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T05:48:10.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7862" CreationDate="2012-07-12T03:40:16.850" Score="7" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game of Swish this evening and the other player was surprised when I asked if 2 sets of 2 card swishes are a valid 4 card swish. That is - can you pick up 2 pairs of cards that each are 2 card swishes and stack them together into a 4 card swish, so long as every ball swishes into a hoop of the same color and there is no overlapping as you visually see 4 balls in 4 hoops?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't specifically comment on this, so I am assuming yes. But given the other player's surprise, I wanted to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the same question can be extended to 2+3=5, 2+2+2=6, etc. I asked the question with 2+2=4 in order to provide a specific example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T14:53:27.843" LastActivityDate="2019-07-27T10:57:30.073" Title="Are 2 2-card-swishes a valid 4-card-swish?" Tags="|swish|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7837" CreationDate="2012-07-12T04:30:15.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but I agree that the examples aren't completely clear on this matter. It two 2 card Swishes could be overlaid into a 4 card Swish, it doesn't break the rules for &amp;quot;What a Swish is&amp;quot;. The examples in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thinkfun.com/sites/default/files/images/product_instructions_pdfs/Swish-1512-IN01.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, and in the video are also no help in this matter, because the rulebook is too brief, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;amp;v=Hzi28pbeWWw#t=75s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; only shows examples of 3, 4, and 5 card Swishes being made from cards that need all cards in the set to make the Swish (which wouldn't be the case with a 2+2 Swish = 4 Swish, or 2+3 Swishes = 5 Swish. It is possible this isn't the designers intent, but based upon the rules as written and the fact that an FAQ does not exist that clarifies this question, I believe you should be allowed to claim a 4 card Swish from two independent 2 Card Swishes that can be laid on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WHAT IS A SWISH?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Swish is created by layering two or more cards so that every ball swishes into a hoop of the same color. The cards may be rotated and/or flipped &lt;strong&gt;but must lay on top of each other in the same orientation&lt;/strong&gt;, and no hoop or ball can be left unmatched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T05:40:36.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2012-07-12T05:27:21.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two good options...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is the cardboard card boxes mentioned by others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other is a two part plastic case; 500 cards is the largest I've seen; 300 card size is commonly available. Three boxes should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, the &quot;300 card box&quot; I've got has space for 10 decks of playing cards... in their boxes... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to sleeve, the cardboard boxes are the only &quot;single box&quot; solution; the acrylic card cases are going to need 2-4, but will hold sleeved cards just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T05:27:21.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2012-07-12T08:58:50.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Er... The highest scoring game is a game where, in additions to buying all the provinces or colonies, there are way to get a lot of VP. I had games with over 100 vp and I knew I could do better in perfect scenario. For example, king's court king's court fully activated cities then play 6 goons at once will get you infinite buys (like 42 buys) and each buy is 6 VP in addition to whatever victory point it gives you. With watch tower you can trash all the coppers right away and repeat this again. You should be able to do this twice. So I think you can theoritically get more than 500 points. &#xA;I just played a game that had something similar happened. If I had more goons and if there was a watchtower then I would be able to do it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201207/12/game-20120712-013703-e0bead10.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201207/12/game-20120712-013703-e0bead10.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3047" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T08:58:50.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-12T09:28:38.247" Score="9" ViewCount="2558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do quite a lot of Agricola drafting, and one thing I've been noticing is that just taking the most powerful Occupations each pick is often not enough - finding synergies is usually better.  To give an example, I'm just finishing a game where I took Mason, Architect and Wooden Strongbox inside of the first three picks: individually none of these would be considered especially strong, but as a team they allowed me to pull forward to an unbeatable lead in the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could give lots more examples of obviously good combos I have seen or managed to draft myself (Bricklayer/Clay Plasterer? Well Builder/Village Well/Water Carrier/Flagon? Renovator/Manservant/Plough Driver?) but what are the strongest combinations that a top player should always be on the lookout for from the moment they sit down to an Agricola draft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="3228" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T11:53:47.220" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T16:03:26.873" Title="What are the key card combos to look out for in Agricola draft?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47276" CreationDate="2012-07-12T13:33:40.063" Score="5" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;In today's bridge column, this example was given:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North opened with one diamond. East doubled with (s) Qxx (h)AQxx (d) x (c) ATxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This double technically met my 14 point requirement (12 for high card points, 2 for the singleton in the opposing suit). But I would have refrained from it for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) I have only Qxx in the spade suit. 2) My strongest suit is clubs, which partner would have to bid at the two level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade the spade suit to Kxx, or Qxxx, and I would double. Or switch the diamonds and clubs, so that I was doubling with a singleton club and Axxxx in diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North and South bid to four spades. East West took the KA of clubs, and the ace of hearts. But then South's game depended on two &quot;two way finesses&quot; in spades and diamonds. From the double, he could infer that East did NOT have the Q of diamonds, and he DID have the Q of spades. Meaning that the double gave away crucial information (and the spade suit was too weak to withstand a finesse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another example of what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3820/in-bridge-do-you-count-defensive-points-in-the-opponents-suit-when-making-a-t&quot;&gt;In Bridge, Do You Count Defensive Points In the Opponents&amp;#39; Suit When Making a Takeout Double?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such cases, should one avoid making a takeout double using this level of &quot;granularity&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T14:59:42.143" Title="Is it right to refrain from making a takeout double in borderline situations?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7844" CreationDate="2012-07-12T14:13:07.660" Score="13" ViewCount="2791" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; is indestructible. The rules for indestructable says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. If a permanent is indestructible, rules and effects can’t destroy it. (See rule 701.6, “Destroy.”) Such permanents are not&#xA;destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the lethal-damage&#xA;state-based action (see rule 704.5g). Rules or effects may cause an&#xA;indestructible permanent to be sacrificed, put into a graveyard, or&#xA;exiled.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for destroy says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6. Destroy&#xA;701.6a To destroy a permanent, move it from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard.&#xA;701.6b The only ways a permanent can be destroyed are as a result of an effect that uses the word “destroy” or as a result of the&#xA;state-based actions that check for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g) or&#xA;damage from a source with deathtouch (see rule 704.5h). If a permanent&#xA;is put into its owner’s graveyard for any other reason, it hasn’t been&#xA;“destroyed.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the crux of the matter. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it&#xA;instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, from my understanding of these rules, since the Colossus wouldn't die since it's indestructable, if they got enough lethal damage on it with Pillar of Flames being used on it, the colossus wouldn't be exiled since it would not die.  Is my understanding correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T15:11:50.523" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T19:30:30.550" Title="Would Pillar of Flames get rid of a Blightsteel Colossus?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7843" CreationDate="2012-07-12T14:17:25.080" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct. The answer to the problem is no, the Colossus would survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is within the Pillar of Flames' text: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it instead&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works as a replacement effect that places the card in exile instead of the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blightsteel Colossus is indestructible, so it would not be destroyed by damage to begin with and never trigger the replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2953" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T14:17:25.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7764" CreationDate="2012-07-12T14:27:29.497" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that you are correct, though now that I've looked I can't find any reliable sources confirming it. Multiple forum conversations agreeing with you, yes, but nothing I'd call &quot;reliable&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, they were never categorised as &quot;power weapons&quot;, so my position would be that unless a FAQ is released that explicitly says otherwise, these weapons should not allow armour saves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And since this page is the first result for most of the phrases I searched for, I suppose there should be an answer here, even if it's not 100% certain!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T14:27:29.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7848" CreationDate="2012-07-12T15:10:24.367" Score="6" ViewCount="3851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of Battlestar Galactica, but have an issue with games with an even number of players. For these games, the game recommends replacing a Cylon with a Sympathiser to help balance it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the unfamiliar, at the half-way point, the Sympathiser basically becomes a (weaker) Cylon if the humans are &quot;winning&quot; (i.e. all stats are above half-full) or remains a human (but is brigged) if the Cylons are winning (i.e. when any stat is below half-full). This helps to balance the game since having an extra full-privilege Cylon would be really tough on the humans, but having a human makes it a bit of a cake-walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a bad mechanic, but in games my group plays with a Sympathiser, I find there's a lot of meta-think and the humans intentionally allow one stat to drop (normally one that's not too tough to raise or keep steady like Morale) to ensure that the Sympathiser is on their side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone faced (and hopefully overcome) this issue before? Does anyone know of a good house-rule alternative to the Sympathiser?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been tempted to use a full Cylon but use some method to make things a little easier for the humans (e.g. have the second loyalty distribution come a little later, or ensure that at least one Cylon card has to wait until the halfway point), but I'd love to hear others' solutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:00:59.207" Title="Alternatives to the Sympathiser in Battlestar Galactica" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7842" CreationDate="2012-07-12T15:28:39.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in part a matter of style, but I would happily make a takeout double with that hand.  In my experience (which I think agrees with prevailing expert opinion), it is better to be aggressive in competitive bidding at low levels, and get more cautious when the bidding reaches the 3 level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages to bidding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have the opportunity to find a contract for your side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You interfere with the opponents' bidding, giving them a chance to make a mistake and making it harder for them to use their conventions (though this is not a big factor for takeout doubles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You give partner information which may be useful on defense&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may end up in an impossible contract and go down badly (perhaps doubled)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You give the opponents information which they can use if they win the contract (as happened in this case)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your partner is good, he is less likely to push you to a crazy contract.  On the other hand, experienced opponents are more likely to double if you end up somewhere bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important factor, though, is the possibility of finding a contract where you can make.  RHO (North) is potentially no stronger than you, so there is a good chance that you have half the points or more.  You should have a shot at making something.  However, if you pass and LHO bids, your partner will likely have trouble bidding unless he has a good enough hand and suit to overcall, and he will likely need to bid at the 2 level or possibly higher if South jumps.  You are probably the strong hand in this partnership, so if you pass now, there's a good chance you are giving up any opportunity to win the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, there are no guarantees.  Sometimes you make the right bid and it ends up hurting you.  Bidding well and playing well are both a matters of percentages -- you should make the play that has the best expected outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T15:28:39.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7846" CreationDate="2012-07-12T16:24:57.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;FFG actually have a variants document posted on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=18&amp;amp;esem=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Support Page&lt;/a&gt; for BSG: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/BSG_optional_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Optional Rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst the humans do start with slightly reduced resources, it should be noted that this still makes it quite a bit easier for the humans to win. Your Cylons will have to be very good if they're to stand a chance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can pick up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=18&amp;amp;esem=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pegasus Expansion&lt;/a&gt; which provides a new &quot;You are a Sympathetic Cylon&quot; (that replaces the original Sympathiser loyalty card) and changes up the rules a little to keep things interesting for whomever happens to draw the Sympathiser card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T09:31:56.863" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T09:31:56.863" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-12T16:49:50.140" Score="52" ViewCount="139381" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic, at the start of the game, you draw 7 cards. How would you calculate the likelihood of drawing a specific card in your opening hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say I have a 60 card deck, and I'm running 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;. What is the percent chance that I will have at least one Bird in my opening hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T15:33:14.733" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T00:43:46.563" Title="How do you calculate the likelihood of drawing certain cards in your opening hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|probability|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7850" CreationDate="2012-07-12T17:17:54.403" Score="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;The calculation you are looking for is called a &lt;a href=&quot;http://stattrek.com/online-calculator/hypergeometric.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hypergeometric Distribution&lt;/a&gt;. This calculated your chances of drawing a particular number of &quot;successes&quot; from a population, without replacement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Population Size: 60 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Successes in Population: 4 Birds of Paradise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sample Size: 7 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Successes in Sample: 1 (the minimum number we want to draw)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Results: 39% chance of drawing at least 1 Birds of Paradise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Hypergeometric Distribution calculator linked above, that result is represented in the &lt;em&gt;Cumulative Probability: P(X &amp;ge; 1)&lt;/em&gt; field: the chance of drawing greater than or equal to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The online calculator will also give you the odds of drawing greater than that many successes in the sample (6%, the &lt;em&gt;P(X &gt; 1)&lt;/em&gt; result), and exactly that number (33%, the &lt;em&gt;Hypergeometric Probability: P(X = 1)&lt;/em&gt; result).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the calculation on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypergeometric_distribution#section_1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;, or searching math.stackexchange.com for Hypergeometric Distribution. Unfortunately, this site doesn't support math formatting. (Note: You will also need to know how to calculate &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binomial_coefficient#Computing_the_value_of_binomial_coefficients&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;binomial coefficients&lt;/a&gt; (and factorials).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-05-05T00:43:46.563" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T00:43:46.563" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7843" CreationDate="2012-07-12T18:01:48.803" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand upon Hyppy's answer, it would be helpful to know the definition of &amp;quot;die&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.6. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.” It is used only when referring to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Hyppy points out, the rules text for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt; is a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature dealt damage this way &lt;strong&gt;would die&lt;/strong&gt; this turn, exile it &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It modifies what happens if the creature is destroyed, moving the creature to exile instead of the graveyard. Since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; isn't destroyed by lethal damage rules, or any other rules for that matter, there is no &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot; event to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T18:01:48.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7850" CreationDate="2012-07-12T18:14:55.317" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;The odds of drawing a particular card in a 60-card deck are obviously 1/60. If there are four such cards, the odds are 4/60. The odds of NOT drawing one of those cards in the first draw is 1 - 4/60 = 56/60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the odds of the entire first hand, we can do it backwards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds of not having any of the four cards in the first card is 56/60 (as I said above). The second card has odds of 55/59 (i.e. one of the remaining non-Bird cards after a non-Bird card was drawn to start), and then 54/58 and so on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 1: 56/60 chance of not being the card you targeted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 2: 55/59&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 3: 54/58&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 4: 53/57&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 5: 52/56&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 6: 51/55&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card 7: 50/54&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds of ALL of these happening (i.e. none of the four cards being in your hand) is the result of multiplying all these odds together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(56*55*54*53*52*51*50) / (60*59*58*57*56*55*54) = ~0.6005 or ~60%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To calculate the odds of at least one of these cards being the one you're looking for, you can subtract this result from 1 (or 100%) to get a &lt;strong&gt;~40% chance that (at least) one of your four cards will occur in a 7-card draw from a 60-card deck&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T12:52:12.413" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T12:52:12.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7850" CreationDate="2012-07-12T22:03:45.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicworkstation.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Workstation&lt;/a&gt; besides many other tools for collection management, deck building, and online play has a very powerful probability calculator.  It will go beyond opening hand and will let you see by what turn are you likely to have drawn the combo that you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-07-12T22:03:45.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6216" CreationDate="2012-07-13T12:06:44.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think no, in both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/file/download/7dsmx5s1ph/RULES_USA_285X285.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) specifically mentions that when declaring victory, and as quoted by you (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are a hero [...] you must move the Chosen One (&lt;strong&gt;by the normal movement methods&lt;/strong&gt;) to the building where the Organ of Eternity is located&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are the incarnation of Fenrir [...] you must move &lt;strong&gt;the character whose card you have in your hand&lt;/strong&gt; (by the normal movement methods) to the same space as the Chosen One&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &amp;quot;you must move the character whose card you have in your hand&amp;quot; rules out a Fenrir victory by bringing the Chosen One to him instead of selecting and moving Fenrir to the Chosen One.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your second scenario, both cases in the rules specify &amp;quot;by the normal movement methods&amp;quot; which I think precludes moving a different character to the objective and then using a special movement technique to swap two players' locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clarification allowing players that are declaring victory to select any character is presumably just a way to avoid meta-gaming and players choosing specific characters only to prevent an opposition win (or heroes accidentally working themselves into a corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T13:16:58.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7859" CreationDate="2012-07-13T13:39:17.677" Score="8" ViewCount="3703" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt;, sacrificing a goblin to pay it's additional cost.  Then, before it resolves I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt;, which allows me to copy the Goblin Grenade.  Since I've already paid the additional cost of Goblin Grenade, do I have to pay it again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T14:42:37.980" LastActivityDate="2021-02-19T08:06:04.340" Title="Do I need to sacrifice again if I copy Goblin Grenade?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7857" CreationDate="2012-07-13T13:47:19.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to sacrifice another Goblin or pay any other costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional costs are paid as part of casting a spell. When you copy a spell with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt;, the copy just pops into existence straight on the stack. Technically speaking, it's never &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T13:47:19.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7857" CreationDate="2012-07-13T14:23:21.030" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not need to pay additional costs for a copied spell. A similar example of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fling&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt; exists in the comprehensive rules, that is close enough to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt; for illustration purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; a copy of a spell isn’t cast and a copy of an activated ability isn’t activated. A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, targets, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs. (See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; Fling is an instant that reads, “As an additional cost to cast Fling, sacrifice a creature” and “Fling deals damage equal to the sacrificed creature’s power to target creature or player.” When determining how much damage a copy of Fling deals, it checks the power of the creature sacrificed to pay for the original Fling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T14:23:21.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="163" CreationDate="2012-07-13T16:52:06.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be that the 'draw' players aren't thinking creatively enough; IIRC, the victory conditions become more fluid as crisis approaches (you can, for example, win by being in rebellion when the state goes bankrupt: presumably you then get called in, Monti-style, to sort out the mess). And if your position is strong enough for your actions to bring the country down, you should be able to finesse that into some chance of a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps more importantly, the game is about dirty politics; if the word 'Senate' doesn't make that clear enough, the history (turning a semi-democratic republic into an Empire with you in charge) should.  One of the rules of politics is always to keep the minor players happy (literally, in this case), so if the 'loss' players think the game's purely about building up votes and victories, they need an urgent re-think. You need to play so that everybody &lt;em&gt;thinks&lt;/em&gt; they have a chance of winning, until your masterplan goes into action...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-07-13T17:54:04.343" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T17:54:04.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7815" CreationDate="2012-07-13T19:02:25.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious thought is that if you scored the same number of points with one fewer turn, you did &quot;better&quot; (and thus deserve to win the tiebreak). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T19:02:25.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7837" CreationDate="2012-07-13T19:59:19.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to email support at Thinkfun.com with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I played Swish last night for the first time and was unclear about&#xA;  something after both reading the rules multiple times and viewing your&#xA;  video:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The question is whether a pair of 2-card-swishes constitute a valid&#xA;  4-card-swish, so long as the hoops and balls don't overlap among all 4&#xA;  cards. The rules don't comment on this situation one way or another so&#xA;  I am assuming the answer is yes (and can be extended equally to 2+3=5,&#xA;  2+2+2=6, etc., again so long as the hoops and balls don't overlap when&#xA;  you stack the subsets together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another way of asking the same question is if you have what seems to&#xA;  be a valid 4 card swish per the rules, is it still valid if the 4&#xA;  cards can be rearranged into 2 sets of 2 swishes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I asked this question on Stack Exchange (Board and Card Games) and&#xA;  the person who answered came to the same conclusion I did - that the&#xA;  rules as literally stated indicate this is a valid swish (see link&#xA;  beneath my signature). However, this sits uneasily with me because&#xA;  2+2=4 swishes are easier to find than 4-swishes that can't be&#xA;  decomposed into 2 sets of 2. Yet the scoring system does not reward&#xA;  finding more difficult swishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you don't know the answer, can you pass this on the game creators&#xA;  to find out their intent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the answer I received:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Below is the answer to your questions from one of our Production Team&#xA;  Members:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The short answer for his question is no, Two 2-card Swishes do not&#xA;  “count” as a 4-card Swish. But, they do count as a legal move in the&#xA;  game, and the person who finds two 2-card Swishes still wins 4 cards,&#xA;  just as many as a person who makes a 4-card Swish. So, to answer the&#xA;  second point, at first blush this would seem not to make sense, since&#xA;  as Joe points out, the scoring system does not reward the person who&#xA;  found the more complicated Swish. This is actually done deliberately.&#xA;  The reason is that the winner is simply the player who has won the&#xA;  most cards. We tested versions where harder Swishes (higher counts)&#xA;  where worth more, but we decided on this version because it allows&#xA;  multiple players, of multiple skill levels, to play an equally&#xA;  challenging game. As in, when families play, Mom or Dad can be limited&#xA;  to 3 or higher card Swishes, whereas Jr.(s) can go for any number.&#xA;  This way, all players will be challenged, and Jr.(s) have an equal&#xA;  chance to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We understand that for more experienced gamers, this will seem&#xA;  somewhat “off”. But this was the version that had the greater appeal,&#xA;  and we assume that people that really get into games like this can&#xA;  adjust the rules as they see fit, adding additional points for higher&#xA;  card Swish. I would suggest +1 for a 3-card Swish, +2 for 4-card, and&#xA;  so on. Keep in mind, though, that if you play this way, you have to&#xA;  keep all your Swishes separate as you win them, or else do the math in&#xA;  your head and remember it. This is another minor detail that can add&#xA;  complication, something that we try to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpret the answer as saying it doesn't count as a 4 card swish yet you can collect 2 2-card swishes simultaneously. It's phrased this way so that if an experienced adult is playing a kid using the variant that kids can do 2-card swishes while adults can't, then the adult is not allowed to simultaneously pick up 2 pairs for a 4 card swish, even if there is no ball/hoop overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T03:28:04.390" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T03:28:04.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7866" CreationDate="2012-07-13T20:25:48.780" Score="3" ViewCount="3395" Body="&lt;p&gt;If they use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counter%20Spell&quot;&gt;Counter Spell&lt;/a&gt; or some other similar way to counter my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt; do I still lose the sacrificed goblin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T00:37:39.917" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T02:22:41.017" Title="If they counter my Goblin Grenade, do I still lose my goblin?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7869" CreationDate="2012-07-13T20:30:37.357" Score="5" ViewCount="1901" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm launching a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt; (that requires the sacrifice a Goblin) and my opponent uses an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unsummon&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; on the Goblin (or similar effects like the ability of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Time Elemental&lt;/a&gt;) does this effectively counter my spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2457" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T00:38:31.337" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:05:54.350" Title="If an opponent unsummons my Goblin, does it spoil my Goblin Grenade?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-11T16:09:18.743" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7864" CreationDate="2012-07-13T21:25:30.147" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. This is pretty obvious if you remember that, like the card says, sacrificing the goblin is &lt;em&gt;an additional cost&lt;/em&gt;. It's like paying mana for a spell - and you don't get mana back if someone counters one of your spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;the comp rules&lt;/a&gt;, casting spells is section 601.1. Paying the cost for a spell is 601.2g; the spell becomes cast after that in 601.2h. At that point, it's on the stack and your opponent has a chance to counter it. When they do, the costs are already paid (your goblin is dead and your mana is spent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T21:25:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2012-07-13T21:34:00.013" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is impossible for your opponent to unsummon your Goblin after you have chosen it to be the grenade victim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell, announcing the spell, choosing its targets and modes, and finally paying its costs (and yes some other more fiddly things), is all a single action that you take at once.  Other players do not get priority to interrupt you in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because sacrificing the goblin is part of the cost of the spell, it is part of that one big action and other people can't jump in the middle to do something.  By the time your opponent gets priority again after you have chosen the goblin, it is already in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-07-13T21:34:00.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3723" CreationDate="2012-07-13T22:39:11.193" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Transfers are useful over 1N. They are even more useful over 2N or over 2C-2D/2N. While Jacoby (red suit) transfers are popular, 4 suit transfers are also coming into vogue. For example, 2S is often used as a transfer to clubs with 2N as either minor suit Stayman or a transfer to diamonds. Or 3C could be used as a transfer to diamonds.&#xA;Use of a transfer bid does NOT carry any suggestion wrt responder's point count. With a weak hand, responder wants to escape from notrump. Nor does it imply that responder has a one suited hand. This is determined when responder rebids a second suit, passes or raises the transfer suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further (and I hope this is not straying from your question) advancer to an overcall may use transfers or responder may use transfers (rubensohl) when partner's notrump is overcalled.&#xA;And transfers enhance the communication process AND bring the limit bidder (the opening no-trumper)  back into the dialogue. But breaking the transfer is allowed ONLY with a super &quot;fit&quot;, when opener can jump to the three level; for the law of total tricks comes into the picture on the one hand, and using up the opponents' bidding space on the other.&#xA;Say partner opens 2N and you hold S94 H109752 D98632 C5; you can transfer to 3H and actually produce a couple of tricks PLUS an entry or two. Who knows; he might even make it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But he WILL NOT make 2N.&#xA;Or, say you hold  S AQ1052 H KJ932 D void C 543&#xA;Over 1N, you can transfer to spades, then rebid hearts. Who knows, you MIGHT reach 6H facing SK4 H A1076 D Q106 C AK8&#xA;So far we have talked about Jacoby transfers.&#xA;Yesterday, I am playing in a pairs game with an old buddy. Put yourself in his shoes. You hold something like;&#xA;S 10987532 H void D Q9853 C 6&#xA;WE are VUL.&#xA;Pardy opens the bidding 1N; 12-14. RHO passes. Do you transfer to spades? (You are NT playing Texas transfers. OLD buddy; remember?)&#xA;The opponents have 24-26 HCP. They also are likely to have 9+ hearts and 8+ clubs between them. Even a Texas transfer is fraught with danger. LHO might DOUBLE 4H, and they will reach FIVE or even SIX hearts. Yes. transfers have a downside. Indiscriminate use might facilitate the opponents endeavors. So did YOU find the 4S bid that will silence the opponents?&#xA;South African Texas transfers would work well here, but THAT is just lucky. Issues such as protecting tenaces,  finding the best &quot;fit&quot; and defining controls are quite subservient to the need to eat up their bidding space. The obvious danger is that your suits break badly and you get nailed for a number. As against that, if you have a 10 card or better spade &quot;fit&quot;, THEY may have a slam.&#xA;And will they REALLY be able to double you?&#xA;Partner bid 2H. LHO finds a horrific double on HK9875. I bid 2S, suggesting 3. RHO now bids 4H on HAQJ642 and some cards in clubs.&#xA;Sometimes it is better not to transfer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="3052" LastEditDate="2012-07-15T14:31:49.910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T14:31:49.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2012-07-14T00:18:07.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Your opponent cannot cast any spells, activate any abilities, or do any other actions while you have priority, unless specifically directed to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1. Unless a spell or ability is instructing a player to take an action, which player can take actions at any given time is determined by a system of priority. The player with priority may cast spells, activate abilities, and take special actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt; has &amp;quot;sacrifice a goblin&amp;quot; as an additional cost to casting the spell, the goblin will not be on the battlefield, which means it will be an illegal target for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unsummon&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.8. Some spells and abilities have additional costs. An additional cost is a cost listed in a spell’s rules text, or applied to a spell or ability from another effect, that its controller must pay at the same time that player pays the spell’s mana cost or the ability’s activation cost. A cost is an additional cost only if it’s phrased using the word “additional.” Note that some additional costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T00:18:07.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2012-07-14T13:04:45.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, let us consider the issue of simple preference. You hold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S 92&#xA;H AQ652&#xA;D KQT3&#xA;C K5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding goes 1H-1S/2D. The 2D bid asks partner to show preference between the red suits. If he prefers the FIRST bid suit, he can do so at the 2 level&#xA;Now, say you hold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S 92&#xA;H KQT3&#xA;D AQ652&#xA;C K5&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding goes 1D-1S/2H-?&#xA;If partner prefers your FIRST bid suit, he must go to the 3 level. So you want to have a better hand to do so. Probably a King better than minimum or extra length in the two suits. So he has three reasons not to reverse&#xA;1  you have denied having four spades&#xA;2  He is not strong enough&#xA;3  The information that he has four spades is of no value to you.&#xA;Hopefully, this answers your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But why did YOU respond 1N? Much as you may hate to do so, the standard response on that hand is 1S,  informing partner that you have four. He has promised a rebid, so with  his minimum hand he raises to 2S. The end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T17:00:38.387" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T17:00:38.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4969" CreationDate="2012-07-14T13:08:43.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your response was quite correct. With an opening hand ceteris paribus, you would cue bid (unassuming), then mention your suit on the next round of bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T13:08:43.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-14T16:51:24.437" Score="16" ViewCount="102918" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an equipped creature and my opponent &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238572&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt;s it, does my equipment remain attached to it? Can I re-equip that equipment to one of my creatures on my turn? I assume since I control the equipment I'm the only one that can play its activated abilities because it was only the equipped &lt;em&gt;creature&lt;/em&gt; that was mind-controlled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example where this could happen would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226589&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Act Of Treason&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T17:14:09.183" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T09:44:46.433" Title="If I lose control of an equipped creature, does the equipment stay attached to it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2012-07-14T17:37:38.720" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are correct. The equipment stays attached to the stolen creature, but you still control it and may re-equip it to a different creature that you control.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the rules for equipment (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5. Some artifacts have the subtype “Equipment.” An Equipment can be attached to a creature. It can’t legally be attached to an object&#xA;that isn’t a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5a The creature an Equipment is attached to is called the “equipped creature.” The Equipment is attached to, or “equips,” that&#xA;creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5b An Equipment is cast and enters the battlefield just like any other artifact. An Equipment doesn’t enter the battlefield attached to&#xA;a creature. The equip keyword ability attaches the Equipment to a&#xA;creature you control (see rule 702.6, “Equip”). Control of the&#xA;creature matters only when the equip ability is activated and when it&#xA;resolves. Spells and other abilities may also attach an Equipment to a&#xA;creature. If an effect attempts to attach an Equipment to an object&#xA;that can’t be equipped by it, the Equipment doesn’t move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5c An Equipment that’s also a creature can’t equip a creature. An Equipment that loses the subtype “Equipment” can’t equip a creature.&#xA;An Equipment can’t equip itself. An Equipment that equips an illegal&#xA;or nonexistent permanent becomes unattached from that permanent but&#xA;remains on the battlefield. (This is a state-based action. See rule&#xA;704.) An Equipment can’t equip more than one creature. If a spell or ability would cause an Equipment to equip more than one creature, the&#xA;Equipment’s controller chooses which creature it equips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5d &lt;strong&gt;An Equipment’s controller is separate from the equipped creature’s controller; the two need not be the same. Changing control&#xA;of the creature doesn’t change control of the Equipment, and vice&#xA;versa.&lt;/strong&gt; Only the Equipment’s controller can activate its abilities.&#xA;However, if the Equipment grants an ability to the equipped creature&#xA;(with “gains” or “has”), the equipped creature’s controller is the&#xA;only one who can activate that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's the exact wording of the equip ability (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to &lt;strong&gt;target creature you&#xA;control&lt;/strong&gt;. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a&#xA;sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, essentially, only the equip ability itself specifies &amp;quot;creature you control.&amp;quot; If the equipment is already attached, the only restrictions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The equipped permanent must still be a creature (301.5).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The equipment cannot itself be a creature (301.5c).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The equipment can't be attached to a creature with protection from it, due to the definition of protection (702.16).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures changing control doesn't violate that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:36:03.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7876" CreationDate="2012-07-14T18:50:14.770" Score="5" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gloryscale Viashino&lt;/a&gt; creature on the board. I cast the spell &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220498&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/a&gt; to enchant this creature. My opponent responds playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dismember&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His intention is to kill my creature before it gets the bonus from the enchantment and before it gets +3/+3 (Armadillo cloak is a multicolored spell). Here is the rules text from Gloryscale Viashino:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Whenever you cast a multicolored spell, Gloryscale Viashino gets +3/+3 until end of turn.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that he cannot kill my creature, because he already got the +3/+3 from its ability when I cast the spell, not when it resolves. This means that my Gloryscale Viashino should be 6/6 before Dismember resolves. What is the correct ruling here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1275" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T16:22:22.133" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:08:25.280" Title="Can Dismember kill my Gloryscale Viashino after I cast Armadillo Cloak?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2012-07-14T19:06:21.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your equipment remains attached to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Control&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt;led creature, because no rule or card effect has indicated otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you may Equip the the equipment to one of the creatures you control on your turn. The equip activated ability can normally only be activated any time you could play a sorcery, but other cards (i.e. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leonin%20Shikari&quot;&gt;Leonin Shikari&lt;/a&gt;) might modify that. At this point, it will become unattached from the former creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are the only one that can play the equipment's activated abilities, because you are the equipment's controller. Keep in mind though, if the attached equipment causes the creature to &lt;strong&gt;gain&lt;/strong&gt; an activated ability, the gained ability isn't an ability of the equipment. (example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diviner%27s%20Wand&quot;&gt;Diviner&amp;#39;s Wand&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5d An Equipment’s controller is separate from the equipped creature’s controller; the two need not be the same. Changing control of the creature doesn’t change control of the Equipment, and vice versa. Only the Equipment’s controller can activate its abilities. However, if the Equipment grants an ability to the equipped creature (with “gains” or “has”), the equipped creature’s controller is the only one who can activate that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.1a An ability is a characteristic an object has that lets it affect the game. An object’s abilities are defined by its rules text or by the effect that created it. Abilities can also be granted to objects by rules or effects. (Effects that do so use the words “has,” “have,” “gains,” or “gain.”) Abilities generate effects. (See rule 609, “Effects.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-14T21:26:27.117" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T21:26:27.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7874" CreationDate="2012-07-14T19:08:34.310" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent can kill your creature, because he can respond to the trigger that gives it +3/+3 until end of turn. Here's the sequence of actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast Armadillo Cloak, putting it on the stack. Then the triggered ability from Gloryscale Viashino goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent casts Dismember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dismember&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority (decline to cast anything), so the top item on the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a -2/-2. It gets put in the graveyard for having 0 or less toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players again yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. That's the triggered ability, but it doesn't do anything because Gloryscale Viashino is no longer in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players again yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves - or would resolve, except that it's a spell with an illegal target, so instead Armadillo Cloak gets countered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For educational purposes, here's what could happen if your opponent cast Dismember at the &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; time (for him):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast Armadillo Cloak, putting it on the stack. Then the triggered ability from Gloryscale Viashino goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This is the triggered ability which pumps the Viashino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a 6/6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent casts Dismember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dismember&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a 6/6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gloryscale Viashino is a 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players again yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This time, the target of Armadillo Cloak is still legal, so it resolves as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T19:08:34.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7874" CreationDate="2012-07-14T19:09:09.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's go step by step. First of all, what does it mean to cast a spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.4a &lt;strong&gt;To cast a spell is to take it from the zone it’s in (usually the hand), put it on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. A player may cast a spell if he or she has priority. See rule 601, &amp;quot;Casting Spells.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as soon as you put your spell on the stack, even before it resolves, it is already being cast. The ability on the Viashino triggers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&amp;quot; and &lt;strong&gt;begin with&#xA;the word &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; They can also be expressed as&#xA;&amp;quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. &lt;strong&gt;Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability's trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The&#xA;ability doesn't do anything at this point.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. &lt;strong&gt;Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack&lt;/strong&gt; as an object that's not a card the next time a player would&#xA;receive priority. See rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority.&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;The ability&#xA;becomes the topmost object on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;. It has the text of the&#xA;ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on&#xA;the stack until it's countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be&#xA;removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the ability is put on the stack above the enchantment, so in a normal scenario the creature would get the +3/+3 even before the enchantment resolves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, the triggered ability is still an ability. It goes on the stack and can be responded to like most abilities and spells. Unless your opponent lets the triggered ability resolve before putting his Dismember on the stack, &lt;strong&gt;Dismember would kill your creature&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-14T19:09:09.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7880" CreationDate="2012-07-15T22:54:40.967" Score="11" ViewCount="1682" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of each player's turn, you draw a Mythos card. The Mythos card (among other things) opens a gate to an Other World. This increases the Doom counter on the Ancient One. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For two players, each round the doom counter will go up by two (assuming the players don't close any gates). If the doom counter goes up to ten, this means the Ancient One awakens. So if the players are slow to close and seal gates, the Ancient One will awaken in 5 rounds. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3055" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:49:32.210" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:51:55.643" Title="The Ancient One awakens fast!" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-07-15T23:09:48.493" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unlike the other phases, only the first player acts in the Mythos Phase&lt;/strong&gt; (check the first sentence about the Mythos phase in the rulebook page 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example you'd have 10 turns each before the GOO (Great Old One) awakens.  Some caveats:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 is just a sample number, various GOO's have between 7 and 14 tokens allowed.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not all Mythos cards open a gate (Rumors for example).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There may already be a gate there (no Doom token is placed).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gates can open via other circumstances (these also generate a Doom token).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can never be quite sure how many turns you have left.&lt;/strong&gt;   That's one of the great things about Arkham Horror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terror track is completely different.  The main way that it advances is due to having too many monsters in the outskirts.  It is pretty rare to fill the terror track, but you will see a building or two close fairly often.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For two players, you are allowed 6 monsters in the outskirts; if there are any more, then dump them and increment the terror track.  (Note that 8 less the number of players is always the maximum number of monsters allowed in the outskirts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:51:55.643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:51:55.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7879" CreationDate="2012-07-15T23:32:24.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not possible that the ancient one will arrive by turn 5, since only the First Player performs this step. Additionally, not all Mythos cards will cause the doom track to advance. An explanation of different results from revealing a Mythos card are on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Mythos_phase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;arkhamhorrorwiki.com.&lt;/a&gt; If the location already has an open gate, a monster surge occurs, and the doom track isn't advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player begins by looking at the lower-left corner of the mythos card he has drawn to see where the dimensional forces are assaulting Arkham this turn. One of three things happens, depending on whether there is an open gate, an elder sign marker, or neither at that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If Location Has No Elder Sign or Gate&lt;/strong&gt; - If there is neither an open gate nor an elder sign marker at the location, a new gate opens and a monster emerges from it. This means that the following things happen, in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Doom Track Advances&lt;/strong&gt; - The first player places a doom token with the eye symbol face up in the first available space on the Ancient One’s doom track. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If Location Has an Open Gate&lt;/strong&gt; - If there is already an open gate at the location, a monster emerges from every open gate currently on the board. This is called a monster surge. A monster surge does not add a doom token to the Ancient One's doom track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-15T23:37:28.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7898" CreationDate="2012-07-16T04:38:26.723" Score="7" ViewCount="2116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only played the game once, but after that experience I do not see why anyone would bid on the Iron Throne track.&#xA;The main advantage it offers is to go first, but I never could see a use in it.  It always seems like it was best to go last, waiting to see opponents' actions. &#xA;Holding the throne token also did not seem useful. Ties are not very common, especially ties involving you in particular, and unlike Dice Town, there is no material reward a player can offer you for picking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, playing House Baratheon, it was even less useful, as being last makes Stannis more valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is so well designed and deep that it feels like I am missing some large advantage that the track offers.  What is its value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T01:29:58.960" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T18:36:04.000" Title="What is the value of the Iron Throne track?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4462" CreationDate="2012-07-16T06:38:54.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This boils down to issues of active thinking and observation. Good players weigh expectation against actuality. But the tools for determining actuality are tools of observation, not memorization. (s)he looks at every card, but there is no value in memorizing them. The dire need is to determine where his tricks are coming from. The tools for this include planning, reconstructing the original four hands and determining how to play certain card combinations and analyzing the opponents' motives.&#xA;By observing every card in the context of reconstructing the hands, the information such as order of play of spot cards is available if needed. But most of your useful information is gleamed from an analysis of what did &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; happen.&#xA;Say, for example, you are defending a contract of 3N. Dummy has DAQJxx, but declarer has tackled a short suit and you are in. You know that declarer holds the DK. Your target number of tricks will be informed in part by that knowledge. THEN you recall that partner (or opponent) gave count in another suit and know that you can wait for your tricks or that you must cash out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3052" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T06:38:54.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-07-16T08:42:17.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm surprised that nobody's mentioned the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/products/storyline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;story&lt;/a&gt; aspect yet. Common soldiers and bears are actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Common&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;common&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, and mighty wizards are &lt;em&gt;rare&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/multiverse/planeswalkers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;planeswalkers&lt;/a&gt; even more so (&lt;em&gt;mythic rare&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One in a million sentient beings are born with “the spark,” the&#xA;ineffable essence that makes an individual capable of becoming a&#xA;Planeswalker. Of those born with “the spark,” even fewer “ignite”&#xA;their spark, enabling them to realize their potential and travel the&#xA;planes. Most Planeswalkers have their spark ignited as the result of a&#xA;great crisis or trauma, but every awakening is different. A near-death&#xA;experience might ignite a Planeswalker’s spark, but so could a sudden,&#xA;life-changing epiphany or a meditative trance that enables the mage’s&#xA;grasp of some transcendent truth. There are as many such stories as&#xA;there are Planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the horde of &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=62&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Drudge Skeletons&lt;/a&gt; in the background of this &lt;em&gt;common&lt;/em&gt; 1993 Alpha card's art, for instance, seen up to 1999's &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Sixth_Edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Classic Sixth Edition&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oSCYx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drudge Skeletons&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=14569&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M9g4E.png&quot; alt=&quot;Drudge Skeletons&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those skeletons are certainly more common than &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Urza&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urza&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;glasses&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;uncommon&lt;/em&gt;), which are more common than &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=42&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urza's sunglasses&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;rare&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDAxC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glasses of Urza&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vcy7c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Urza's Sunglasses&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jL8oV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thrun, the Last Troll&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;mythic rare&lt;/em&gt;) has many stories on his very hide, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/126&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;as written in the official set preview&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most believe the trolls have gone extinct. As long as I live, they're&#xA;wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;—Inscribed in the skin of Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Magic's creator Richard Garfield explains in &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-arabian-nights-2002-08-05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Making Of Arabian Nights&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read several translations, jotting down all the major characters, creatures, items, and places I ran across. [...] I distributed these names into the common and uncommon slots (there&#xA;were no Arabian Nights rares). I did this roughly by putting the&#xA;things that were part of the Arabian Nights atmosphere--often&#xA;background elements but seldom main players--into the common pile. &lt;strong&gt;For&#xA;example, asps, tortoises, and nomads appear in a lot of stories but&#xA;aren't the subjects of the stories. The things that were major parts&#xA;of stories, or associated with just a single story, went into the&#xA;uncommon pile.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, Drop of Honey and Repentant Blacksmith&#xA;were both particular stories, and Sindbad was a major player in many&#xA;stories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were certainly cards that didn't fit into this scheme, but that&#xA;procedure was the rule of thumb. The most notable exceptions were the&#xA;djinni and the efreet, which were fairly common major players in the&#xA;Arabian Nights, generally without specific names but with specific&#xA;personalities. It seemed that these powerful, important players should&#xA;not be common--or of one color--and so I put one of each in every&#xA;color but white, where they did not seem to belong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flavor was so important that 1994's &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/issue-legen%E2%80%94wait-it%E2%80%94dary-2011-05-09&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legends expansion&lt;/a&gt; focused on characters, and added &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/latest-developments/legendary-disagreement-2011-05-13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Legend Rule&lt;/a&gt; to make them unique:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalker and legendary permanent cards represent unique things in&#xA;the multiverse. There's only one Koth of the Hammer, and there's only&#xA;one Umezawa's Jitte. It would be fourth-wall-breaking to allow both&#xA;players to control their own copy of either at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/magic-2014-core-set-rules-preview-2013-05-23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Only since 2014&lt;/a&gt; the Legend Rule allows multiple copies to exist on the battlefield at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastEditorUserId="2668" LastEditDate="2021-08-21T15:08:14.740" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T15:08:14.740" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7888" CreationDate="2012-07-16T10:32:31.037" Score="9" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Arms&quot;&gt;Master of Arms&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2W, Summon Soldier 2/2, Weatherlight Uncommon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First strike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1W: Tap target creature blocking Master of Arms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to use this in my deck as powerful creature which could attack, tap a couple of defenders to prevent them from dealing combat damage and kill off the remaining untapped one with first strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now under the new rules tapping a blocking creature doesn't actually do anything, and since it will untap in its next turn is rather pointless. Since Master of Arms used to prevent combat damage, should it be re-worded to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1W: Tap target creature blocking Master of Arms, that creature deals no combat damage &#xA;this turn.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which would then make the card function in the same way it used to?&#xA;Otherwise the ability is worthless outside of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Royal%20Assassin&quot;&gt;Royal Assassin&lt;/a&gt; / Master of Arms combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an errata on what do with old cards which are rendered useless by the news rules, or should they just no longer be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T01:44:42.963" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T01:44:42.963" Title="Is Master of Arms pointless under new blocking rules?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2012-07-16T12:07:15.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, for its intended purpose &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Arms&quot;&gt;Master of Arms&lt;/a&gt;' ability is pretty much pointless now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you ever have a question about a specific card such as Master of Arms, you should go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer, the official errata reference for M:tG&lt;/a&gt;. It is the final authority for all card wordings, and often has additional rulings that could be of interest for the respective card under current rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, it mentions that being tapped does not prevent a blocking creature from dealing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a more general note, rules changes often make some cards more useful, and others less useful. Another example besides the &amp;quot;tapped blocker combat damage&amp;quot; rule would be the removal of &amp;quot;mana burn&amp;quot;, which made cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Drain&quot;&gt;Mana Drain&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Braid%20of%20Fire&quot;&gt;Braid of Fire&lt;/a&gt; much stronger, while it weakened cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Power%20Surge&quot;&gt;Power Surge&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Citadel%20of%20Pain&quot;&gt;Citadel of Pain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really just the course of the game, and in such a complex game with a huge card pool such as M:tG, it's pretty much unavoidable that even minor rules changes affect a lot of cards and combos, positively or negatively. Also note that as a Trading Card Game, M:tG was the first of its kind, so they had no predecessor to build upon. They had to make and later iron out &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the mistakes one could make; and they started off with rules that today's rules lawyers can only turn their faces away from in horror, I imagine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to what you should do with your Master of Arms or really any other card that gets the rules change shaft: Holding on to it and speculating for a revert of the change is probably the most sensible thing to do, since its value has already been diminished and you couldn't get rid of it for its old value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-07-16T12:20:57.937" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T12:20:57.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2012-07-16T12:09:49.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there was errata, it would be in the card's Oracle text (as seen on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;). For a time, cards like Master of Arms did have functional errata to preserve their old functionality. However, this was deemed annoying on two levels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card's functionality didn't match the printed text.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the case of abilities untapping blockers, the card's functionality didn't match the way it used to work, either: a player could use another ability to untap the blocker and its damage would still be prevented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read about why it was changed in the rules manager's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/141a&amp;amp;page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;May 2011 Update Bulletin&lt;/a&gt;. It boils down to this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My general philosophy is that I'm okay with rules changing out from&#xA;  underneath cards and changing their functionality. Heck, just look at&#xA;  the Magic 2010 rules changes. It wouldn't be reasonable to try and&#xA;  make all previous cards work exactly the same way they did before&#xA;  those rules changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree. It's most important for a card to actually do what's printed on the card than to match how it worked some years ago. This depowers Master of Arms, but honestly it was never &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; good to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T12:09:49.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7885" CreationDate="2012-07-16T13:25:24.957" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Arms&quot;&gt;Master of Arms&lt;/a&gt; ability is basically useless now, and functions differently now than it used to under pre-6th Edition rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was errata for Master of Arms', it would show up in the Oracle wording. The Gatherer page for that card lists the Oracle text, along with errata changes and dates. The Oracle is the official wording on Magic cards. The card used to work the way that you described, but in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/141a&amp;amp;page=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;May 2011&lt;/a&gt;, the errata that supported the cards original functionality was removed so that the card now works as written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Arms&quot;&gt;Master of Arms&lt;/a&gt; - Just like Winter Orb, Master of Arms had a mystifying Oracle wording intended to replicate original functionality. The rule that changed this time was the one saying that tapped blockers didn't deal combat damage. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general philosophy is that I'm okay with rules changing out from underneath cards and changing their functionality. Heck, just look at the Magic 2010 rules changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This recent change to Master of Arms is part of an ongoing rules philosophy change that began years ago. Several different articles point to the reason for these changes. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af127&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power-Level-Errata-B-Gone&lt;/a&gt;, you learn of the architect behind the rules changes, Mark Gottlieb the lead rules manager. The reason for the change is that without an online reference, it is difficult to verify how a card is supposed to work. For that reason, power-level errata is being removed from cards as well as errata to make cards work as originally designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why Did We Make This Latest Batch of Changes?&lt;/strong&gt; - Over the years, the sheer number of rules revisions and changes of rules managers the game has undergone—as well as unintended consequences that arise when new mechanics and card abilities are unleashed each set—has led to cards slipping through the cracks. As the evil genius currently in charge of maintaining Oracle, Magic rules manager and former cult-leading columnist &lt;strong&gt;Mark Gottlieb is a strong, strong believer that cards should have functionality that matches their printed intent as often as possible&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/bb50&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ben Bleisweiss&lt;/a&gt; talks specifically about tapped creatures and combat damage under fifth edition rules (as well as other interesting changes). The rule was essentially removed, because it wasn't intuitive to new players. Someone who was unfamiliar with the rules probably wouldn't understand why tapped attacking creatures deal damage, and defending creatures don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TAPPED CREATURES DEAL NO DAMAGE&lt;/strong&gt; - Change: Under Fifth Edition rules, tapped blocking creatures dealt no damage in combat. Under Sixth Edition rules, they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why: Much like the old &amp;quot;tapped artifacts shut off&amp;quot; rule, the rule about tapped creatures dealing no damage wasn't something a player would intuitively know just by looking at a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr291&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater&lt;/a&gt; even lists Master of Arms' as a famous example of cards being useless under new rules changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, our Oracle database encounters this problem every day because it has to modernize cards and mechanics that were created in a different time. Often what was done then doesn't even work now. I don't know how many times I've heard Mark Gottlieb gripe because some card that was made to do something that made sense in the past simply doesn't make any sense in modern day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A famous recent example would be the card Master of Arms. The card was designed at a time when tapping a blocking creature kept it from dealing damage. Then Sixth Edition rules came along and removed the rule and all of a sudden Master of Arms's mechanic made a lot less sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that being said, Master of Arms isn't really a tournament level card, which means that you are probably playing this deck in a casual setting. Most likely, if you told your opponents, &amp;quot;Hey, I have this fun deck I play that got completely hosed by sixth edition rules, would it be ok with you if Master of Arms said '1W: Tap target creature blocking Master of Arms, that creature deals no combat damage this turn.' for the purposes of this game?&amp;quot; I don't think anyone would object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T01:28:40.703" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T01:28:40.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2012-07-16T15:05:06.530" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official rules are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. I can see nothing in the rules that would explicitly prevent one player offering immunity to another player. You only have to pay rent if the owner of the property &lt;strong&gt;asks&lt;/strong&gt; you for it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The owner may not collect the rent if he/she fails to ask for it before the second player following throws the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you could argue that offering immunity violates the spirit of the no lending rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No player may borrow from or lend money to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T15:05:06.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2012-07-16T20:53:52.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One variant I've played is to make suggestions to a specific opponent.  That opponent is then first to either show you a card or say they have no matching cards, and it then proceeds clockwise from there, until either one of your opponents shows you a card or noone does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows a bit more strategy in that you can tailor questions for specific opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2012-07-16T20:53:52.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7676" CreationDate="2012-07-17T12:14:51.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of observations that can be made about property purchasing in Last Will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They don't get rid of as much money as you think&lt;/strong&gt;. Sure, they cost a lot to buy, but the house is still an asset and part of your funds, and this is something you might be tempted to forget. Right up until you sell it and the money cascades back into your pile. If you spend the whole game focussing on just a couple of properties, you'll find that the total outlay isn't that much. Even with a fully favourable market, total decay, and an estate agent or two, you might only manage to sink 30 cash into a house at the most, and that's not a great return if you've spent a lot of turns on it (and nothing else; which brings me to my next point...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make sure you have a finishing strategy&lt;/strong&gt;. If you learn only one thing from this answer, learn this. Properly done, houses can get rid of a lot of money, but it's actually impossible to get rid of ALL your money exclusively through property because you have to sell said property, which leaves you with a small pile of remaining money and no way left of efficiently spending it. I've seen games of Last Will in which a player has absolutely hosed his money away on properties, sold them at the end for a crippling loss, but has still been forced to crawl over the finish line because they're relying entirely on event cards and the &quot;theatre&quot; board action to get rid of their remaining pennies. Invariably another more balanced player will cross the line first (or at least go further into debt) because when it got to the end, they could still spend a decent amount with each action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The most obvious player interaction is on the property market&lt;/strong&gt;. There's very little interaction in the game. Actions on player's individual boards are totally independent. There's a little competition for good cards, or the wild-card companions, and there's competition for spaces in the turn order, but fundamentally, this does little except to change turn order for chasing the good cards. (If you don't care about turn order, there's pretty much always somewhere you can go that gets you close to what you want for cards/errands/actions balance.) But there's only one property market space, and it will affect everyone in the property business, and this can have a profound effect. The best time to dip into the property market will often be when most other people aren't interested. As always, you'll do better with no competition. Your opponent probably found that he could get decent helpers from the board (while everyone else fought over property-oriented cards) and largely play his own game, unconcerned with other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't plough all your actions into maintaining properties and playing/activating helpers that only affect properties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have an escape plan. Play a couple of helpers that work well together and will still be able to spend money once your properties are gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As in all games, take the path of least resistance. Go for the strategy that the fewest other players are going for and you'll find less competition for the cards that suit that strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T12:14:51.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7896" CreationDate="2012-07-17T13:40:03.687" Score="41" ViewCount="103068" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A taps &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Fireslinger&quot;&gt;Goblin Fireslinger&lt;/a&gt; targeting Player B; its &amp;quot;deals 1 damage to target player&amp;quot; ability is placed on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B gets priority and responds with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snap&quot;&gt;Snap&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Goblin Fireslinger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players pass priority. Snap resolves, and Goblin Fireslinger is returned to its owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Player B still take 1 damage from Goblin Fireslinger's activated ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if the creature had been killed/sent to the graveyard, the ability would still resolve, but I was told recently that because a player's hand is a private zone it couldn't. If anyone could confirm or deny this for me, it would be most appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2661" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T13:10:54.447" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T10:23:00.257" Title="Does an ability resolve if the source of the ability leaves the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7764" CreationDate="2012-07-17T13:46:25.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that neither weapon entitles a model wounded by them to a standard armour save. Invulnerable armour saves would be taken as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The approach to determining this is if a weapon or a weapon's special rules are not covered in the Rule Book (&quot;Big Yellow Book&quot; or BYB, 6th edition) then you take the description as written in the Codex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of these two weapons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Staff of Ulthamar&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no mention that this is a weapon listed in the BRB, and so we use the description on p51 of the current Codex: Eldar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;In combat it always wounds on a roll of 2+ and ignores armour saves.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Spear of Twilight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Codex mentions on page 53 that this is a Singing Spear and adds a further rule, ignoring armour saves, to that weapon description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;It is a Singing Spear that ignores armour saves (see page 27).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to Page 27, the Singing Spear is a weapon that &lt;em&gt;is similar to a Witchblade&lt;/em&gt; but note that it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; listed as a Witchblade. It has it's own weapon profile, rules and description listed in this Codex and these are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; overridden by anything in the new rule book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result we use the profile detailed on this page, remembering to add in the &quot;ignores armour saves&quot; rules mentioned in the Spear of Twilight's own description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3061" LastEditorUserId="3061" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T11:51:09.813" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T11:51:09.813" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7893" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:08:44.073" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability still resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the costs of the ability are paid and targets are chosen, the ability goes on the stack. Once the ability is on the stack, the source of the ability can be destroyed, returned to hand, shuffled into a library, or exiled --- none of this affects the ability which is already on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, because of the rules of priority, the non-active player is not able to respond to you beginning to play a spell or ability by unsummoning your Goblin. Your opponent must allow you to finish declaring your ability, and only then does he have an opportunity to respond with spells or abilities of his own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2012-07-17T14:17:08.163" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T14:17:08.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7893" CreationDate="2012-07-17T14:57:35.837" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Player B still takes damage from the Goblin Fireslinger. Rule 112 covers this adequately. Rule 112.3a tells us that Activating an ability puts it on the stack, until it resolves, is countered (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;), or it otherwise leaves the stack (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt;). Rule 112.7a tells us that the activated ability exists independent of the source, and does not quality this separation with objects moving to a hidden zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]” A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority. Doing so puts it on the stack, where it remains until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 602, “Activating Activated Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that they are confusing this with the rules regarding tracking objects that are moving between zones. Normally, objects have no memory of their previous existence in another zone, and become new objects. There are 7 exceptions, and (d/g) are probably the ones that they are confusing this with. These exceptions exist, because cards like Rancor exist that need to have rules that allow the cards to actually work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7d Abilities that trigger when an object moves from one zone to another (for example, “When Rancor is put into a graveyard from the battlefield”) can find the new object that it became in the zone it moved to when the ability triggered, if that zone is a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7g A resolving spell or activated ability can perform actions on an object that moved from one zone to another while that spell was being cast or that ability was being activated, if that object moved to a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:48:32.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:48:32.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="84" CreationDate="2012-07-17T15:45:45.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider calling a weak tight players preflop raise with a small pocket pair at Holdem. You only intend to continue in the hand if you flop a set. You will make a set about 1 time in 8. The amount of money you will win on average each time you flop a set needs to be at least 7 times your investment to justify calling and playing he hand this way because for every time you hit your set you will miss it seven times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are being laid a price to call a small amount now to win the pot plus extra action if you connect. That price (taking into account the expected future action) is your implied odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people over estimate their implied odds - you won't always get very much when you hit and hitting doesn't guarantee winning the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3062" LastActivityDate="2012-07-17T15:45:45.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7882" CreationDate="2012-07-17T17:18:44.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Control of the Iron Throne grants you the decision in all (non-battle) ties, not just ties involving you.  This can be useful to try and balance other players in respect to your own position (weaken closer players, for example, or the ones with a stronger board position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to resolve ties can be quite important when bidding, which can happen in two primary places.  First, once the bid for the Iron Throne has resolved and the order is determined, the new holder of the Iron Throne now resolves ties in the bids for the Fiefdom (sword) and King's Court (raven) tracks.  This allows the holder of the Iron Throne to bid less than otherwise and still have a reasonable assurance of a decent placement.  The positioning of other houses can also be important at this point.  Second, the bidding to defeat wilding attacks: the holder of the Iron Throne determines who gets the benefits or penalties in case there is a tie for the high or low bidder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, although it is often beneficial to let others go first in order of play, it can also be beneficial to go before your opponents.  For example, your Raid order could remove another Raid order before it has the chance to remove your Support order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, while there are advantages, I usually bid harder for the King's Court track than any other, myself. I love the starred orders too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1174" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T01:37:01.750" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T01:37:01.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7630" CreationDate="2012-07-18T00:44:49.773" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;, you don't have a choice whether to collect rent or not:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you land on property owned by another player, the owner collects rent from you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't give the property owner any choice in the matter, they simply &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; collect rent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, you could offer immunity as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player who lands on your property pays rent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You immediately pay them back the amount they just paid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, you'll have to be able to give money to another player.  There is a rule forbidding &lt;em&gt;loans&lt;/em&gt; between players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No player may borrow from or lend money to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but a &lt;em&gt;gift&lt;/em&gt; is not the same as a &lt;em&gt;loan&lt;/em&gt;.  Another way to give money to another player is to sell them an unimproved property for $0, then buy it back for the amount you wish to give them.  This is allowed by a different rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unimproved properties, railroads and utilties (but not buildings) may be sold to any player as a private transaction for any amount...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this comes with a caveat: You can't do anything to force someone to grant you immunity, it's entirely up to them choosing to act in good faith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T00:44:49.773" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7901" CreationDate="2012-07-18T02:23:32.703" Score="16" ViewCount="5560" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this situation in a game of Small World tonight. Seafaring Tritons took over the lake (using two race tokens) and then removed one of them during re-deployment. There was an adjacent Sorcerer player and we wondered if he could use their special ability to take over the lake. We ended up not doing it, but it seems to me that the Sorcerer's special ability would allow them to replace the single Triton there and conquer the region. Would that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-18T05:03:56.077" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T18:34:29.597" Title="Sorcerers versus Seafaring" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7900" CreationDate="2012-07-18T03:10:36.873" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you need to be able to conquer the adjacent territory. Only races with Seafaring can conquer the sea or Lake Regions. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state on the Seafaring ability (page 11):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your Seafaring race is active, you may conquer the Seas and the Lake, ... &lt;strong&gt;Only seafaring races may occupy the seas and the lake&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;strong&gt;Conquering a Region&lt;/strong&gt; section (page 4), regarding what conquering means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To conquer a region, a player must have available to deploy&lt;/strong&gt;: 2 Race tokens + 1 additional Race token for each (cardboard piece) ... Seas and Lakes cannot usually be conquered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon conquering a Region, the player &lt;strong&gt;must deploy the Race tokens he used to conquer this Region inside the borders on the map&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Following Conquests&lt;/strong&gt;, showing that you must have conquered a region to occupy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of the newly conquered Regions &lt;strong&gt;must be adjacent to (i.e. Sharing a border with) a Region already occupied by his active race tokens&lt;/strong&gt;, unless permitted by his Race and Special Power combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, the sorcerer's ability (page 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once per turn per opponent, your Sorcerers &lt;strong&gt;can conquer a Region by&lt;/strong&gt; substituting one of your opponent's Active tokens with one of your own taken from the storage tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T18:34:29.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7903" CreationDate="2012-07-18T06:53:06.157" Score="10" ViewCount="19783" Body="&lt;p&gt;This game has a standard deck of 52 playing cards. All the cards are dealt out to the players, and there can be any number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First the player who has the Ace of Spades has to start the game by playing that card. Then each player plays a card of their choice matching the suit that was selected. If they already have a card in front of them, it's discarded first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any player doesn't have cards of the selected suit then he plays any card of his choice and then the player with the highest valued card will take all the played cards and add them to his hand, and then start a new round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game continues until only one player has cards remaining. That player is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone recognise this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3065" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-07-18T09:17:58.833" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T20:06:02.640" Title="What is the name of the game called &quot;Ace&quot; in south Asia (specifically India)?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2012-07-18T15:24:55.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found several references to it online as being called &quot;Bhabhi&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://s193890092.onlinehome.us/malton/bhabhi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://s193890092.onlinehome.us/malton/bhabhi.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zymbiotic.com/bhabhi/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.zymbiotic.com/bhabhi/rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, someone on BoardGameGeek really likes it, so it must be bona fide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/471299/the-perfect-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/471299/the-perfect-card-game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T15:24:55.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7638" CreationDate="2012-07-18T18:56:41.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player who reveals his card always learns a little less than everyone else. This is because everyone else learns that he has one of the suggested cards, but the revealer already knew that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the normal rules, the next player to act is also more frequently the player who reveals a card. If you reversed the suggestion order, this disadvantage would go away. This probably only has a minor impact, but you'd have to test to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2012-07-18T18:56:41.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7874" CreationDate="2012-07-19T02:21:29.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Spells and abilities do not resolve immediately. Each player has the opportunity to respond to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gloryscale%20Viashino&quot;&gt;Gloryscale Viashino&lt;/a&gt;'s +3/+3 triggered ability. We know that the Gloryscale Viashino's ability is a triggered ability, because it starts with &amp;quot;Whenever.&amp;quot; Only the top spell or ability resolves, so for your opponent to kill your Gloryscale Viashino, they need to respond to it's +3/+3 triggered ability. When they do this, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismember&quot;&gt;Dismember&lt;/a&gt; is added to the top of the stack, and it will be the first spell or ability to resolve. The stack will look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismember&quot;&gt;Dismember&lt;/a&gt; - Gloryscale Viashino gets -5/-5 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GV triggered ability&lt;/strong&gt; - Gloryscale Viashino gets +3/+3 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armadillo%20Cloak&quot;&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/a&gt; - Enchanted Creature gets +2/+2, trample, and gain life triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players pass at this point, the Gloryscale Viashino will get -5/-5 until the end of the turn before anything else on the stack resolves. Because it's toughness is 0 or less, it will killed (&amp;quot;die&amp;quot;) and will be placed in its owner's graveyard. The remaining spells/abilities on the stack will fail to do anything, since the Gloryscale Viashino will no longer be on the battlefield (assuming that Armadillo Cloak was targeting the Gloryscale Viashino). &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; quoted below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RESOLVE&lt;/strong&gt; - When you cast a spell or activate an activated ability, or when a triggered ability triggers, nothing happens right away. It just goes on the stack. After each player gets a chance to respond to it, it will resolve and its effect will happen. If another spell or ability counters it, or if none of its targets are legal when it tries to resolve, it won’t resolve at all (and if it’s a spell, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RESPONDING TO A SPELL&lt;/strong&gt; - The spell doesn’t resolve (have its effect) right away—it has to wait on the stack. Each player, including you, now gets a chance to cast an instant or activate an activated ability in response. &lt;strong&gt;If a player does, that instant or ability goes on the stack on top of what was already waiting there. When all players decline to do anything, the top spell or ability on the stack will resolve.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TRIGGERED ABILITIES&lt;/strong&gt; - A triggered ability is text that happens when a specific event occurs in the game. ... Each triggered ability starts with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” You don’t activate a triggered ability. It automatically triggers whenever the first part of the ability happens. The ability goes on the stack just like a spell, and resolves just like a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T03:08:25.280" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:08:25.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7864" CreationDate="2012-07-19T02:22:41.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. You pay costs to take actions. This includes Mana Costs listed right of the Card Name, and any additional costs within the cards Rules Text. Nothing in the Basic Rules allows you to get back costs that you paid to cast a spell. Remember, your opponent is paying a cost to counter your spell (usually a mana cost, and the instant counter spell that will leave their hand and go to their graveyard). It wouldn't be fair for them to have to pay to counter your spell, if you just got your resources back. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;COST&lt;/strong&gt; - A cost is something you have to pay to take another action. You must pay a cost to cast a spell or activate an activated ability. Sometimes a spell or ability will also ask you to pay a cost when it resolves. You can’t pay a cost unless you can pay all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;COUNTER A SPELL OR ABILITY&lt;/strong&gt; - To cancel out a spell or ability so it has no effect. If a spell is countered, it’s removed from the stack and put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T02:22:41.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7865" CreationDate="2012-07-19T03:05:54.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Your opponent may only cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unsummon&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; on your goblin when they have priority. Your opponent gets priority after you &lt;strong&gt;pass&lt;/strong&gt;. Wou will have finished casting your spell and paying all necessary costs at this point, and the goblin you sacrificed will be in your graveyard. (From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since players can cast instants and activate abilities during each other’s turns, the game needs a system that makes sure &lt;strong&gt;only one player can do something at a time&lt;/strong&gt;. Priority determines, at any given time, which player can cast a spell or activate an activated ability. The active player (the player whose turn it is) gets priority at the&#xA;beginning of each step and each main phase—except for the untap step and the cleanup step. &lt;strong&gt;When you get priority, you can cast a spell, activate an activated ability, or pass (choose to do nothing).&lt;/strong&gt; If you do something, you keep priority, so you make the same choice again. If you pass, your opponent gets priority, so now he or she gets that choice. This goes back and forth until both players pass in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ADDITIONAL COST&lt;/strong&gt; - Some spells say they have an additional cost. To cast that spell, you must pay both the mana cost in the upper right corner of the card and its additional cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CASTING A SPELL&lt;/strong&gt; - To cast a spell, take the card you want to cast from your hand, show it to your opponent, and put it on the stack. ... Now check what the spell’s cost is. Tap your lands to produce the mana necessary to pay that cost, and pay it. Once you do that, the spell has been cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T03:05:54.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6375" CreationDate="2012-07-19T06:31:53.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;(disclaimer: i haven't played button men seriously in ages, but i'll share my impressions from back in the day)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that Lab Rats is the best button, as its 2-dice will allow skill-attacks on far better dice than it has to give away. Bunnies, with its 1-dice is also strong, but can too-often get trapped into not being able to make any attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst by far has to be the dragon with d30s all down the line. Yes, it can take anyone's dice, but odds are you're going to roll one of them low, and give up 30 points at once. Do that twice and there's no way to win against most buttons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some are banned from tournaments for power. i think lab rats and bunnies were both banned at some point. Some are banned due to non-playability (how would you roll a pi-sided die for the James Earnest button?), and some are banned for their swingy nature (the xxxenophile buttons, with their 3 x-dice, were considered too &quot;swingy&quot;; you could completely change the nature of your button between rounds, though it looks like they're back on the permitted list)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beatpeopleup.com/tourname.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.beatpeopleup.com/tourname.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3067" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T06:31:53.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7815" CreationDate="2012-07-19T08:08:16.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionsimulator.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;simulator data&lt;/a&gt; with simple mirror strategies might help to make this more visible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sea Hag is the biggest offender: if both players go for Sea Hag, the first player will win almost twice as many games as the second player and in 4-player the first player will win almost 3 times as many games as the player in the 4th seat. Cutpurse's cumulative effect is clearly evident when we add more players. (Tact/Vault is the double Tactician Vault deck and HP/Baron is the Hunting Party/Baron deck)&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWPZk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1947" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T08:08:16.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2012-07-19T08:41:17.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You control the creature =&amp;gt; You can activate activated abilities of the creature (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diviner%27s%20Wand&quot;&gt;Diviner&amp;#39;s Wand&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent controls the equipment =&amp;gt; Your opponent can activate activated abilities of the equipment (e.g. equip)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tricky case is with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blazing%20Torch&quot;&gt;Blazing Torch&lt;/a&gt;. It gives the creature an activated ability so you might think you can use it? The answer is no, this because one of the costs of activating it is sacrificing the torch itself and you can't sacrifice another player's permanents!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tricky equipment is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Umezawa%27s%20Jitte&quot;&gt;Umezawa&amp;#39;s Jitte&lt;/a&gt;. Note that the equipment is the one with all the abilities...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2012-07-19T08:46:35.493" LastActivityDate="2012-07-19T08:46:35.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-19T14:32:13.370" Score="10" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love the game &quot;Ora et Labora&quot; by Uwe Rosenberg. It is has especially a nice 2 player mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 3 and 4 player mode the game ends after a certain number of rounds. Which I like very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in the 2 player variant the game ends, when there is only one building left to built. I find this troublesome. My first problem here is that if both player focus on the production of goods, the game can be very long. Moreover, some of the buildings (yellowish) have to connect to your main building complex. If you have been not careful, it can be costly or impossible to get rid of these building-cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in alternative ending rules. What about stopping after a fixed (how many?) number of turns. Should there be a final settlement phase in the end? What was the intention of the game designer to have a completely different 2 player game termination rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3069" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T00:07:16.293" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T00:07:16.293" Title="Ora et Labora. Ideas for an alternative 2 player game ending rule?" Tags="|house-rules|ora-et-labora|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7914" CreationDate="2012-07-20T07:16:02.587" Score="8" ViewCount="5773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a deck with undying creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a card named &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plaguemaw%20Beast&quot;&gt;Plaguemaw Beast&lt;/a&gt;, which has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}, Sacrifice a creature: Proliferate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens If I sacrifice a creature with undying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. The creature returns and gets the 2 counters because of proliferate or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. The creature returns but with only 1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:34:30.177" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:34:30.177" Title="Do undying creatures get counters if I sacrifice them with Plaguemaw Beast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2012-07-20T08:24:26.907" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can choose to give the Undying creature a second counter.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order of events is as follows, omitting irrelevant/obvious steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You announce that you want to use the creature's ability and put it on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay all costs; in this case, sacrifice an Undying creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrificing the creature triggers its Undying ability, which is put on the stack on top of the Beast's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Undying ability resolves and the creature returns to the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Proliferate ability resolves and you may choose the returned creature to give it another +1/+1 counter. Since the Beast's ability is not targeted, you don't choose the permanents as targets, i.e. when you announce the ability, but only when it resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. [...] Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in order. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2a The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. [...] &lt;strong&gt;It becomes the topmost object on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2g The player pays the total cost in any order. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T13:56:27.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7913" CreationDate="2012-07-20T14:43:25.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The undying creature will return to the battlefield before the &lt;strong&gt;Proliferate&lt;/strong&gt; activated ability&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; resolves, so you have the choice of it having one or two +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plaguemaw%20Beast&quot;&gt;Plaguemaw Beast&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability, you pay all costs, includes the cost of sacrificing a creature. The ability is added to the top of the stack, and all costs need to be paid, just like casting a spell &lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. Since the sacrificed creature died during the process of paying the costs for Plaguemaw Beast's activated ability, the undying creature's triggered ability&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt; will trigger. The undying ability will be added to the top of the stack&lt;sup&gt;[4]&lt;/sup&gt;, and will resolve before the &lt;strong&gt;Proliferate&lt;/strong&gt; ability. If no one chooses to respond, the top of the stack resolves returning the &lt;strong&gt;undying&lt;/strong&gt; creature to the battlefield, with a +1/+1 counter on it. Then, if no one chooses to respond again, the Proliferate ability resolves and you can choose to give the newly returned undying creature another +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]. &lt;strong&gt;ACTIVATED ABILITIES&lt;/strong&gt; - ... Each activated ability has a cost, then a colon (“:”), then an effect. (page 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2]. &lt;strong&gt;CASTING A SPELL&lt;/strong&gt; - To cast a spell, take the card you want to cast from your hand, show it to your opponent, and put it on the stack. (The stack is the game zone where spells live. It’s usually in the middle of the table.) ... Now check what the spell’s cost is. Tap your lands to produce the mana necessary to pay that cost, and pay it. Once you do that, the spell has been cast. (page 10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[3]. &lt;strong&gt;TRIGGERED ABILITIES&lt;/strong&gt; - A triggered ability is text that happens when a specific event occurs in the game. ... Each triggered ability starts with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” You don’t activate a triggered ability. It automatically triggers whenever the first part of the ability happens. The ability goes on the stack just like a spell, and resolves just like a spell. (page 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[4]. &lt;strong&gt;THE STACK&lt;/strong&gt; - Spells and abilities exist on the stack. They wait there to resolve until both players choose not to cast any new spells or activate any new abilities. Then the last spell or ability that was put onto the stack resolves, and players get a chance to cast spells and activate abilities again. (You’ll learn more about casting spells and activating abilities in the next section.) This zone is shared by both players. (page 8. Also see an example on page 11)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-07-20T14:43:25.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7918" CreationDate="2012-07-21T23:33:44.903" Score="9" ViewCount="391" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game of Puerto Rico, I had a Factory with a colonist on it, and I had manned plantations and production buildings to produce four different kinds of goods. However, when the Craftsman was taken, by the time it was my turn to take my production all but one of the supply piles was exhausted, and I was only able to take one barrel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, do I still get the +3 doubloon bonus from the Factory since I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; produce four types of goods, or do I not get any bonus since I only &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; take one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T00:50:29.670" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T00:50:29.670" Title="Factory bonus when some supply piles are exhausted" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7917" CreationDate="2012-07-22T00:04:31.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No bonus is received.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only get credit for what you produce. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_4_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 10.  The answer is clear within the Example for the factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T00:04:31.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7933" CreationDate="2012-07-22T01:24:07.933" Score="10" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, is it better to overpay food by 1, or to use a coin? This situation usually comes up when I have a stack of bread or steaks and some money.  I have the food to pay, but usually feel cheap and use a coin instead, which wastes VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize there are many specific decisions where the decision is obvious, but I feel like pretty often the decision is moot, and requires falling back on a general rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this decision change if paying a player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T17:07:09.667" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T17:08:30.523" Title="In Le Havre, is it a good idea to feed with money?" Tags="|le-havre|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7921" CreationDate="2012-07-22T01:51:11.650" Score="5" ViewCount="4453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and my friends were playing Axis and Allies: spring 1942 and one player placed an industrial complex on a country and then placed their units there, in the same turn. We looked through the entire rule book and we couldn't find it. We looked under the section for placing units and the appendix for Industrial Complex. Are you allowed to to this in Axis and Allies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-07-24T00:50:16.393" LastActivityDate="2017-11-11T19:11:50.987" Title="Can you place units in an Industrial Complex the turn you place it?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2012-07-22T03:20:33.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot use industrial complexes you captured or purchased this turn. You must have missed it, top of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/AVL1942_RuleBook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;page 22&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Phase 5: Mobilize New Units&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the newly purchased units from the mobilization zone on the game board to eligible spaces you have controlled since the start of your turn, with the following exceptions (below). &lt;strong&gt;You cannot use industrial complexes that you captured or purchased this turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T03:28:43.073" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7923" CreationDate="2012-07-22T08:29:18.940" Score="4" ViewCount="1703" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game, you could have castles and fortresses. There were ballistae and catapults and little sets that could be purchased to build upon your original set. The game had a rulebook and turn-based gameplay. Some units rolled special dice to determine actions' outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was this game called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T15:12:15.593" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T15:12:15.593" Title="Which board game released in the 90's involved medieval combat?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7922" CreationDate="2012-07-22T13:25:19.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are most likely referring to Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S22FFetltbE&quot;&gt;Board James&lt;/a&gt; playing it. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/2132/weaponswarriorsrules-pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; can be found here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game had several &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;objecttype=boardgame&amp;amp;q=Weapons+%26+warriors&amp;amp;B1=Go&quot;&gt;expansions&lt;/a&gt;. It contained cannons and ballista. You rolled dice to move your soldiers forward, which allowed you to move your firing pieces forward or fire your weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors: Castle Siege Game (1994)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors: Pirate Battle (1996)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors: Power Catapult Set (1994)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors: Star Fort (1994)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors - Lashout Launcher (1994)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors: Cavalry Attack Set (1994)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors: Weapon Pack 2 (1995)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Weapons &amp;amp; Warriors Castle Storm / Pirate Clash Game (1997)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T13:31:24.670" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T13:31:24.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7927" CreationDate="2012-07-22T14:14:47.407" Score="7" ViewCount="7656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the scenario where there are three players remaining:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A has 1,000 chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B has 200 chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C has 50 chips and is the dealer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand starts and Player C goes all in. Player A calls and Player B goes all in. Player A calls Player B's all in. At this point everyone is all in and turns their cards over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, Player A's hand beats both Player B and Player C. Clearly, Player A has won first place. And if Player B's hand beat Player C's hand then clearly Player B would have won second place, and Player C third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if Player C's hand beats Player B's hand - who gets second place and who gets third place in that scenario? I wager one of the following three outcomes is what should happen, but I'm not familiar with the rules to know what the &quot;official&quot; outcome should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C wins second place because his hand beat Player B's hand, even though Player B had more chips at the start of the hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B wins second place since she had more chips at the start of the hand than Player C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A wins first place and gets to go off and roll around in the piles of money he has won. Player C gets 50 of Player B's chips, since he went all in with his 50 and won the hand and the two stay at the table and play heads up to determine second and third place. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="44" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T17:43:44.870" Title="In Texas Hold'em, who is awarded second and third place in this scenario?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2012-07-22T15:23:13.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr9&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; Mark Rosewater discusses how cards become rare (particularly focussing on &quot;bad&quot; rare cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of the reasons he specifies for why some cards become rare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;They’re too complex to be common or uncommon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;They’re cool, unique creatures or spells that need to be rare to keep their specialness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;They’re cards that prove disruptive to sealed or draft and are made rare to minimize their appearance in limited formats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;We need to make the card rare to keep a balance of “good” cards throughout the three rarities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="927" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-07-22T16:04:20.937" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T16:04:20.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7932" CreationDate="2012-07-22T16:39:34.003" Score="1" ViewCount="1775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's another example from today's New York Post. West opened 1 club. (He had a 19 point 1NT hand, and was planning to re-bid 2NT.) North made a (takeout) double with (s) KQxxx (h) Qxxxx (d) xx (c) x, which according to partnership agreement, showed 5-5 in the majors. East passed, and South was forced to bid 1 H with (s) xxx (h) xxx (d) Kxx (c) xxxx. They went down three doubled vulnerable. East-West could have made game, but not slam in 3 NT or one of the minors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;rule of 20&quot; says that you can OPEN when the sum of your HCP plus the length of your two longest suits is at least 20. That is, 10 HCP plus a 5-5 or 6-4 distribution, 11 HCP with a 6-3 or 5-4, 12 HCP with 5-3, and you need 13 HCP for a 4-3-3-3 distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, I WOULD have doubled with  (s) KQxxx (h) KQxxx (d) xx (c) x (ten high card points plus 5-5), but not with North's actual hand (only 17).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you find the &quot;rule of 20&quot; useful in this context (takeout double, or even &quot;unusual&quot; NT overcall showing two minor suits)? Would you refrain from doubling even with my &quot;hypothetical&quot; hand? Or would you have doubled like North with a tally of less than 20? Would vulnerability affect your application of this rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:14:21.667" Title="In bridge, can the &quot;rule of 20&quot; be used outside of opening bids (e.g for takeout doubles)?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7924" CreationDate="2012-07-22T17:43:44.870" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here, the important factor is that Player B and Player C both lost to, and were &quot;busted&quot; by Player A's hand. Not that Player C's hand beats Player B's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two players &quot;bust out&quot; on the same hand, then the prizes are awarded in DESCENDING chip order as of BEFORE the mutual bust. That is Player B comes in ahead of Player C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Player C had sat out with 50 chips, and only Player B was busted, Player C would continue. (And probably win second place unless he were able to stage a complete reversal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-07-22T17:43:44.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7929" CreationDate="2012-07-23T03:37:29.067" Score="8" ViewCount="2679" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205391&quot;&gt;Rolling Thunder&lt;/a&gt; can have any number of targets. I play the Rolling Thunder choosing three target creatures. I copy the Rolling Thunder with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=290289&quot;&gt;Reverberate&lt;/a&gt; and can choose new targets for the copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I choose a different number of targets, or am I only changing the choice of target for each of the three already chosen targets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3075" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T04:40:43.980" Title="Choosing new targets for a spell with a variable number of targets" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7928" CreationDate="2012-07-23T04:32:44.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot choose a different number of targets. The rules make it clear that when you copy a spell, you copy the targets of the spell. Reverberate allows you to change the targets, because it specifically says so, but the normal rules for copying a spell just copy the targets as they were. Any unchanged targets remain targeting their original objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; a copy of a spell isn’t cast and a copy of an activated ability isn’t activated. A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, &lt;strong&gt;targets&lt;/strong&gt;, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.10c Some effects copy a spell or ability and state that its controller may choose new targets for the copy. &lt;strong&gt;The player may leave any number of the targets unchanged&lt;/strong&gt;, even if those targets would be illegal. If the player chooses to change some or all of the targets, the new targets must be legal. Once the player has decided what the copy’s targets will be, the copy is put onto the stack with those targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reverberate&quot;&gt;Reverberate&lt;/a&gt; errata:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8/15/2010&lt;/strong&gt; The copy will have the same targets as the spell it's copying unless you choose new ones. You may change any number of the targets, including all of them or none of them. If, for one of the targets, you can't choose a new legal target, then it remains unchanged (even if the current target is illegal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-23T04:40:43.980" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T04:40:43.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7926" CreationDate="2012-07-23T04:46:59.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for saying this, but this is a very strange question! It looks like you don't really understand the purpose of takeout doubles as they currently are played by the majority of people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the specific situation you mention, you seem to be forgetting that Grue-Cheek use a strong club system, in which 1C shows 16+ any (I believe), and thus a takeout double over that needs to have a specialized meaning, like Levin-Weinstein choosing to show 5-5 in majors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary purpose of takeout double is to try and find a fit, and thus the shape requirements(shortness in opp suit, support for other suits) are given precedence over the strength requirements (especially for minimum hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if 1C was natural, the &quot;typical&quot; way to deal with 5-5 majors is to use a combination of Michaels (weak + strong) and natural overcalls (intermediate hands, overcall 1S then 2H etc), rather than making a takeout double. The situation you describe is different as 1C is not natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of rule of 20 is to help judge whether to open or not (in the first/second seat), by trying to give some weight to long suits and is another in a long line of rules which are probably better left untaught.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trying to use this rule to decide whether to make a takeout double is very strange and shows a lack of understanding of takeout doubles (IMO). For e.g, with long suits of 5+, you tend to overcall with most hands, and would not make a takeout double if you didn't have the right shape/strength etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a case of trying to apply the wrong tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T04:46:59.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2012-07-23T11:22:45.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a good solution for this has been known for a while.  The &quot;Chess clock&quot;.  For any old board game do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Determine the length of the game you'd like to play.&#xA;Divide by the # of players.&#xA;Double the time.&#xA;Each player gets that much time for the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the time is exceeded, that player loses the game.  If the game would be 'ruined' by him leaving in the middle, he can either play out his turns (without a chance of winning) or other players can take turns finishing his turns (round robin or random player takes his remaining turns)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This solution is superior to a turn timer because it allows you to take more time when necessary, but really results in faster turns since people want to 'save up' more than use the whole turn time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several smart-phone apps that can be used for this purpose, even the default timers will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T11:22:45.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7926" CreationDate="2012-07-23T16:48:48.993" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;What North and South did is not a take out double, but a conventional response to a strong club opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most important things to do facing a strong club is to intervene, making it more difficult for the opposing side to reach the optimum contract. You don't want you opponents to relay themselves into a hard to bid (grand)slam that no one else will make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the simplest defenses to a strong club is Mathe, where Double shows the majors, and 1NT shows the minors. This is the easiest way to convoy shape, so your partner knows where to intervene, or where to sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular auction it would probably be better for South to bid 1D asking for North's better major as South has no real preference, and North would be 1S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3077" LastActivityDate="2012-07-23T16:48:48.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7919" CreationDate="2012-07-23T21:03:33.773" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's entirely situational.  Sometimes you have more food than you need and are clearly better off spending the extra food.  Other times you don't have enough food and would end up spending more money for food at the end of the round anyways.  Often it is in between these two extremes, and then it can be a tricky decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When paying to another player, that player's situation may be relevant, but it's generally secondary to your position vis-a-vis food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need to look at is how much food you have compared to how much you need at the end of this (and future) rounds.  If it will end up costing you more than one VP/money to get back the two food later (and you'll need), you should probably spend the money.  Otherwise not, but even this doesn't cover everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concrete example:  You have 1 franc and 1 bread (and no other food), and want to use a building that costs one food.  Before your next action, the round will end and you'll need 2 food for support.  In this case, you can spend the money, and then the food at the end of the round, leaving you with no food or money for your next action.  Or you could spend the food, leaving you with not enough money for food at the end of the round, which will force you to take a loan.  So on your next action, you'll have 3 money, but also have an additional loan, a net cost of 2-4 VPs, BUT it may be worth it if you need cash to use a building on your next action and would otherwise have to sell a building to get that cash.  Of course, if another player has an action before the end of the round, they might screw up your careful plans by using one of your buildings and giving you a fish, so you no longer need a loan...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T17:08:30.523" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T17:08:30.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7935" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-24T05:31:11.593" Score="13" ViewCount="10176" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing Munchkin, but haven't found a good way to protect the cards. So, how do you protect your beloved Munchkin cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3080" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T11:20:24.927" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T10:02:12.240" Title="How do you protect your Munchkin cards?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1662" CreationDate="2012-07-24T06:17:41.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic Dominion has a few things that if you can master them, the additional complexity of Intrigue becomes easier to handle.&#xA;First: Three Basic Strategys&#xA;1) Big Money: Get Silver when you can, then get gold. When the saturation of money in your deck is 1.6, you can regularly buy Provinces. If you have a province majority, try to remove as many as possible. If you and your opponent are close, start buying duchys when there are about 6-4 provinces left. Do not take the second to last province unless you know they cannot win if they take the last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Terminal Action Combo: Some cards get you +1 action. No matter how many of these you have, even if you get through your entire deck, you will only be able to play 1 card that does not have +1 action. However, with a card like Labratory, you create an engine that can run through most of your deck in a turn. Buy one terminal action (like witch), and run through your deck each turn, buying whatever is best (usually gold or a province), and you will get your terminal action out almost every turn. One witch goes a long way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Multi-Action Engines: With cards that give +2 action, or duplicate actions etc you can get a deck where you can do many things at once. In basic Dominion Village is a perfect example of this. A Deck with a few villages, a few labs, and some attacks etc can get a lot done on one turn (give them two curses, mine some silvers into gold, and remodel a gold into a province). These decks take a while to set up an efficient engine, but once they get started, they quickly gain enough points to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In basic Dominion, just figuring out which of these strategies is best for the 10 cards you have is the first step. Then figure out how the different cards augment or threaten your strategy. Big money can benefit from cards like smithy or council room. Marketplace can add a few crucial extra buys in a competition of action decks etc. Each game turns into a two step contest: BM/Terminal Draw/Multi-Action, and then once you have decided, how to optimize your choice to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is realizing that some cards completely change the game.&#xA;1) Witch. This slows down every single deck you can be facing. If one player ignores Witches, they will have no chance of winning. There terminal drawing engine will draw into Witches and sputter. The Combo engine even more. Even BM will be slowed enough (hard to get to 1.6 saturation when you have extra non-money cards in your deck). Any game with Witches must include getting Witches as part of the strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Gardens/Workshop Combo. This will win before any traditional BM/Engine deck. You workshop gardens, buy workshops, and then try to run out something like estates, which is about the only card you will be able to reliably get. Even witches do not do much to stop this deck, given that every card has the possibility of pushing the gardens to the next point level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Chapel. While commonly seen as the anti-witch, it is actually just a way of beating people very quickly. If you only have 12 cards in your deck (gold and provinces) You will be getting a province every turn. This makes all combo decks run faster, and BM gets to the critical money saturation much faster. If one player uses chapels and the other does not, the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this step, of identifying the game-changing cards, you can even go another level. Thief kills Chapel BM decks. You cannot afford to lose one of 4 gold at any point. Chapel does cancel out witches. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this have to do with intrigue? Intrigue just expands the possiblities, but does not add very many additional whole-game strategies. &#xA;1) Dukes/Duchies. This can beat a BM Province deck point wise. &#xA;2) Torturer is bad enough as a single action, but doubled up becomes horrible.&#xA;3) Minion is like witch. If one player is getting minions and the other is not, the minion player will win. it is two free money, and it does not really even take up deck space. You gain the money from as many as you can, use the last to draw 4, and continue on. Having a minion string is awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply consider how the new cards fit in with the old. What new combos can you build a multi action deck around (torturer, saboteur, bridge)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cards are more effective in a big money deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had to pick only one or two terminal actions, which ones would they be? What cards help build a chain of actions (Great Hall, Minion, Ironworks sort of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can consider these changes, then you should be fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T06:17:41.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7720" CreationDate="2012-07-24T06:41:30.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Edo period go, the system worked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even: Taiga-sen (Alternating Black and White)&#xA;One Dan difference: San-Ai-Sen (Black two out of three games)&#xA;Two Dan difference: Josen (Always Black)&#xA;Three Dan difference: Sen-Ni-Sen (Black two games, two stones on game)&#xA;Four Dan difference: Sen-Ni (Alternating Black and two stones)&#xA;Five Dan difference: (Always take two stones)&#xA;Six Dan difference: (two handis twice, three handis once)&#xA;Seven Dan difference: (three stones twice, two stones once)&#xA;Eight Dan difference: (always take three stones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that you had a different handicap against each player, based of your individual results against each other. Also it was expected that you would play many games. Almost like tennis where you try to break the serve, if you won consistently while playing white, it was impressive (Black is expected to win more often, getting the first move)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T06:41:30.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5681" CreationDate="2012-07-24T07:12:56.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through my database (about 71,000+ games), it becomes clear that the high openings have always had a smaller than usual incidence than the 3-4 and later the 4-4. However, it never really fell out of use by professionals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are thinking about amateur play, that could be possible. I have no data on amateur games in my database. I think that it has always been desired by the player at an initial disadvantage (White before komi, both with komi), favored by aggressive players, and favored by those who prefer to make shimari backwards to prevent the east approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T07:12:56.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3231" CreationDate="2012-07-24T07:21:25.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Controlling the Center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) From the beginning of the game until the King castles, the center of the board is where the King is, and so it is the logical place to begin operations. After the King does castle, the operations tend to focus on creating an attack on the flank where the King has moved to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The middle of the board allows for the most mobility for all of your pieces but the Rook. Knights have 8 squares in the middle, 4 on the edge, 2 in the corner.&#xA;Bishops have 13 moves in the middle, 7 in the corner. The queen has 27 in the middle, 21 in the corner. The more squares your pieces control, the more options you have later in the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Moving a center pawn forward frees three pieces (Queen, King, one of the Bishops). Moving a Bishop pawn forward only frees the Queen or the King. Moving a Knight pawn forward only frees a Bishop, and moving the Rook pawn forward only semi-frees the Rook. So in order to get the most pieces developed efficiently, moving the center pawns are important. Once they have been moved, it is critical that they remain as a shield at least until your King has been moved to safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T07:21:25.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7935" CreationDate="2012-07-24T07:40:02.067" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I hate the Munchkin game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the cards are of one of the standard card sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maydaygames.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mayday Games&lt;/a&gt; makes sleeves intended for card game play. In about 100 hours of play, I've shed 2 sleeves on my dominion set, and both of those because someone riffle-shuffled lengthwise. You'll need to shuffle sideways, rather than lengthways, but sleeving the cards is your best option. Their data sheet says the purple size are correct for Munchkin, and the green size for Munchkin Quest. It also says you'll need two packs per munchkin 168-card box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xYnTg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://maydaygames.com/sleeve-chart.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T07:40:02.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6733" CreationDate="2012-07-24T08:00:56.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answers to your questions depend on the details of how you score the game.  For example, Facebook Farkle scores three pairs as 750 points, Gaby Vanhegan's Zilch implementation scores it as 1500 points, and Wikipedia's entry on Greed scores it as 800.  These and other scoring differences affect the expected value of rolls and ultimately the optimal play strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To correctly answer your question for the case of the one die roll, you must not only consider the potential gains and losses of that immediate one die roll, but also the weighted value of ALL subsequent rolls.  For example, if you roll the sixth die and get a 1 (for hot-dice) and then roll six dice and score three-pair (for another set of hot-dice), are you going to stop and bank?  No!  you're going to roll again!  So the true value of rolling that sixth die by itself is more than the weighted value of that one roll; and is more than the weighted value of that roll plus the subsequent 6-die roll.  To get it's true value, you must calculate the expected points for the remainder of the entire turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've analyzed exactly this problem at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattbusche.org/blog/article/zilch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my website&lt;/a&gt;.  The analysis is straightforward, but too long to repeat here.  I wrote a web-app&#xA;called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattbusche.org/projects/farkle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Farkle Strategy Generator&lt;/a&gt; (FSG) which allows you to generate farkle strategies that provide exacting answers to your questions.  And here they are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1 and 2 die rolling rules for Farkle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting the FSG for Farkle scoring and overriding the banking theshold to zero you find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 dice&lt;/strong&gt;:  bank when you have 250 or more points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 die&lt;/strong&gt;:  bank when you have 300 or more points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the min-bank threshold is actually 300 points, so the above rules&#xA;boil down to just:  &lt;strong&gt;Never roll one or two dice unless the minimum banking threshold forces you to.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1 and 2 die rolling rules for Zilch&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 dice&lt;/strong&gt;:  bank when you have 250 or more points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 die&lt;/strong&gt;:  bank when you have 350 or more points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the 300 point banking threshold will prevent you from banking 250 points with 2 dice to roll, but the 1 die rule is more interesting as it suggests you roll when you have 300 points (which is enough to bank).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you run the FSG yourself to generate the strategy customized to your own scoring rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why my answer is different&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;user1873's analysis says to bank when you have 250 points and one die to roll, but the strategy produced by my FSG says to roll in this situation.  Why the difference?  While the analysis presented by user1873 is both instructive and a good estimator of how to play to maximize expected scores; it does not consider the possibility of rolls subsequent to the 6-die roll and neglects the weighted contribution of these positive events.  If you correctly calculate these higher-order effects, you find that it is actually worthwhile to roll one die when you have 250 points for the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3081" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T19:40:01.303" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T19:40:01.303" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3312" CreationDate="2012-07-24T11:54:43.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's keep in mind the losing conditions for the loyal knights, as well as a few facts. Loyal knights lose if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;there are 7 black swords at the round table&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Keep in mind that 1 white sword becomes a black sword from a false accusation.  2 white swords convert to 2 black swords if you can remain unidentified as the traitor when a &quot;victory&quot; condition is met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;there are 12 siege engines surrounding Camelot&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;This gets very difficult to avoid when the Grail, Excalibur and Dragon quests are complete since those cards now mean add a siege engine.  &quot;Perhaps it wasn't such a good idea for the loyal knights to win that quest so quickly...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;all of the loyal knights lose all of their life points&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;This is practically impossible.  I do not suspect there is any way to build a strategy around this losing condition.  Just make sure that you do not die off, because if you do, you cannot do your Progressions of Evil and steal white cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) The only way they win is if the majority of the (at least) 12 swords at the round table are white.  If you remain hidden at this point, they will still win if they have 12 swords, 9 of which are white, or 13 (or more) swords, 8 of which are white.  So the best thing for the loyal knights would be to win a bunch of quests as close to simultaneously as possible giving them one of the sword ratios above.  This would give the traitor very little time to make false accusations and turn white swords to blacks, and not enough cards draws from completed quests to add more siege engines.  Better for you (the traitor) is that they win Grail or Excalibur early on.  Then you have a basis for strategy # 5 below and if you get called out, strategy # 4 should be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hints for good traitorous play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Find ways to dump your good cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;It always seems suspicious when the cards have been shuffled but the Heroism card hasn't been used yet and there have been several quests that have been won.  That is because you (the traitor) dumped it into the lake at the Excalibur quest, or discarded it as your white card penalty instead of losing a life point.  The Merlin's Company expansion seems to have powers for the new knights that make this very easy.  &lt;em&gt;Warning&lt;/em&gt;:  don't be too obvious and eager about opportunities to &quot;dump&quot; cards in this manner.  &quot;I'll dump three cards so you guys don't have to&quot; makes you suspicious.  Keep in mind that all discards (Excalibur quest, penalties from special black cards, and knight powers) must be done face down so the loyal knights cannot see that you just dumped your Reinforcements card, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;Notice how you play when you are not the traitor&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If your play (behavior/mannerisms) is similar/identical to how you play when you are loyal, it makes it more difficult to spot you doing something devious.  Ex:  I generally always make my first few Progressions of Evil as losing a life point in order to delay having to play black cards or place siege engines.  If I started a game out and did not ever lose life points, the other players would suspect something right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;Don't be a moron&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Other players will know that you knew better.  Ex: Fighting a siege engine with only 4 fight strength.  &quot;Well I thought I had a 50/50 chance.&quot; isn't going to cut it.  Nobody is that desperate, and furthermore, that's only a 3/8 probability of winning (because you lose on ties).  Likewise, travelling to the Grail quest with only 2 grail cards is not very smart.  Travelling at all without the proper counters to the Travel Cards (Merlin's Company expansion) is also not smart.  You fellow players will sniff you out really quickly if you try something so foolhardy.  Remember, you are trying to remain hidden until they think they have won so you can switch 2 whites swords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) &lt;strong&gt;Expose the traitor early&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;An alternate way to play the traitor is to get out early on.  It seems reasonable that you get exposed early in the game, to maximize the damage that can be done by your white card stealing, and minimize the &quot;good&quot; that you have to do while you are still loyal.  This may only work once per playing group, but if you can convince them to ferret out the traitor early on, say, before you have even earned 1 white sword, they will waste many Heroic Actions with their accusations to expose you.  You also, can waste your Heroic Actions making what you know is a false accusation, wasting some of your turns.  In order to do this, there needs to be 6 siege engines out.  Once you are exposed, you only need to get 6 more down to win, all the while you can be stealing their cards making it hard to them to finish quests (or even start one) or fight off the siege engines.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) &lt;strong&gt;Falsely Accuse&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Tip #4 above is great, but won't work very often when they see how devastating it can be to expose the traitor too early on.  Wait till there are 2-3 white swords in play (and preferably 2-3 black swords as well), then start making some false accusations.  This will convert the whites to blacks.  Once you have 7, you win.  This may force them to expose you sooner than they wanted since you keep turning all of their white swords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3083" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T11:54:43.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7944" CreationDate="2012-07-24T14:59:33.510" Score="23" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a new board game where there's an action (we'll call it &lt;em&gt;Brazening&lt;/em&gt;) that only happens every X turns (let's say it happens every 5 turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good way to keep track of when it's time for the next &lt;em&gt;Brazening&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The perfect method would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be easy for players to do&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be hard for players to forget&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;require a minimum of pieces or moving parts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not require pencil and paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might not be a perfect method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T16:56:15.730" Title="Something that only happens every X turns" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-07-24T15:14:53.723" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no game designer, so this is just off the top of my head: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd try and tie it to a mechanic that already exists in the game and which the players can't avoid, or at least get a obvious (maybe short term) advantage from, so it's unlikely to for them to forget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each player gets 5 cards at the start of the game and must play one each turn. When everyone has no cards left, execute &lt;em&gt;Brazening&lt;/em&gt; and everyone draws 5 new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A pool of 5 times &lt;em&gt;number of players&lt;/em&gt; tokens in it, and at the start of their turn a player must take a token and do something with it. When the pool is empty, it's time to &lt;em&gt;Brazen&lt;/em&gt; and then refill the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of actions do the players take in your game? Maybe if you roughly describe the mechanics, we could find a simple may to modify them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="512" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T15:14:53.723" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-07-24T15:26:55.060" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the simplest method would just be to add a turn marker.  Have an area on the board with the numbers one through five printed out on it, with an &quot;It's Brazening Time!&quot; highlight around the the number five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing a game with a definite number of turns, just print all turn numbers with a highlight around every fifth.  If you have an indefinite number of turns, just mark out a five turn cycle, with the turn marker going back to turn one after every Brazening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be ideal since it can be easy for players to forget to advance a turn marker during the heat of the game, but it's simple to figure out, requires only a single moving part (i.e., the turn marker itself) and is a common enough mechanic in a lot of games.  This sort of system can be added to pretty much any game, regardless of mechanic; what it lacks in ideality it makes up for in universal compatibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more ideal system would be to somehow tie it into an existing game mechanic (e.g., the above suggestion works much better if you're already tracking turns because of a definite turn limit).  RoToRa gives some good examples of this in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/7944/1926&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;, but exactly what will and will not work is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; dependant on the mechanics of the game itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your game, it would be well worth looking at &lt;em&gt;any action that must be performed every turn&lt;/em&gt;, and find some way to map it to the five-turn cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T15:26:55.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-07-24T16:23:45.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try a method similar to the dominion method of keeping track of actions; say it out loud! It &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Say how many you have left out loud; this trick works every time (i.e. &quot;I'm playing the Festival and now have two Actions remaining. I play a Market and have two Actions remaining. I play another Festival and now have three Actions remaining….&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have your players start their turn with &quot;It has been 1 year since the Brazening&quot; and when they say &quot;It has been 5 years since the Brazening&quot; they have to do the brazening action. Remember: &lt;em&gt;this trick works every time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could add a minor penalty to a player who gets the number wrong to encourage everyone else to pay attention and keep track!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T16:23:45.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5300" CreationDate="2012-07-24T17:06:04.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In The Resistance, the biggest danger is having a consistent strategy that is predictable. As a spy, I usually don't fail the first mission if there's only one other person on it, but sometimes I will. If there are 2 other players on it I'm much more likely to sabotage, but still not every time. Being on a successful mission almost guarantees that I'll be included in later missions with more people allowing me to cast doubt more effectively on others because &quot;I was on that successful mission!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In groups where people tend to play too consistently I find myself getting bored; it seems like the game is determined completely by luck of who gets picked to go on missions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T17:06:04.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7843" CreationDate="2012-07-24T21:58:42.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly enough, even if Blightsteel Colossus wasn't indestructible, it probably still wouldn't get exiled by Pillar of Flame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to 616.1: If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the &lt;strong&gt;affected object's controller&lt;/strong&gt; (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player &lt;strong&gt;chooses one to apply&lt;/strong&gt;, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An non-indestructible Blightsteel destroyed by (or one sacrificed after taking damage from) Pillar of Flame has two replacement effects, the one on the Colossus stating to shuffle it into the library instead of placing it in the graveyard, and the exile effect on Pillar of Flame. The controller of the Colossus must choose one of these to apply, and it seems pretty likely that they would choose the shuffle option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3086" LastActivityDate="2012-07-24T21:58:42.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-24T23:53:00.183" Score="6" ViewCount="98321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most players will tell you that buying booster packs for values is a loosing investment, and for the most part this is true because the average expected value of cards in a set is lower than the retail cost of the booster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which M:tG sets have the highest average expected value, and what is the break-even point for pricing against that set's EV?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that this set would be one with a high number of mid-priced ($2-5) uncommons, and other commons that help to keep the value of more valuable cards afloat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first guess would be Darksteel, as it has a number of commons/uncommons that are well priced for their rarity (Aether Vial, Echoing Truth, Darksteel Citadel, Skullclamp, Darksteel Ingot), is a small set, and has at least two big money cards in the Swords of X and Y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3086" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T19:26:05.663" Title="Which MTG booster packs have the highest rate of return on investment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-07-25T00:20:41.333" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only need the &lt;em&gt;Brazening&lt;/em&gt; to happen &lt;em&gt;approximately&lt;/em&gt; every X turns, you could simply roll a die at the beginning of every turn with a 1/X chance.  For a 1/5 chance, for instance, roll a D10, and if it comes up 1 or 2 then &lt;em&gt;Brazen&lt;/em&gt; away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not this method is useful would depend completely on the purpose of the &lt;em&gt;Brazening&lt;/em&gt; mechanic and the importance of its predictability.  If it's necessary for some kind of restocking of important materials (like drawing cards or recovering health), this method probably won't work.  On the other hand, if the purpose of the &lt;em&gt;Brazening&lt;/em&gt; is to periodically make things more difficult/interesting for your players, or to temporarily modify other mechanics to mix things up, its randomness might be desirable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3087" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T00:20:41.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7949" CreationDate="2012-07-25T00:42:13.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anything after you wait long enough.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is assuming you don't actually open the packs, but seriously, take a look at these prices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=lorwyn%20booster%20pack&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=pkq&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=pj4PUK65N4jpqAHs3oHQBA&amp;amp;ved=0CH4Qsxg&amp;amp;biw=1104&amp;amp;bih=527&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$10 for ONE Lorwyn booster pack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0014ERVGM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$25 for THREE Time Spiral boosters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=zendikar%20fat%20pack&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=Agq&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;amp;prmd=imvns&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=hT0PUP3PEoTerAGqtIHABQ&amp;amp;sqi=2&amp;amp;ved=0CHsQsxg&amp;amp;biw=1104&amp;amp;bih=527&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Over $100 for a Zendikar or Worldwake fat pack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/120952937790?hlp=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Almost $20 for a Zendikar fat pack box with no cards in it&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Magic is such a highly collectible game, people will tend to pay more for rarer items. This includes the booster packs themselves. Even though the cards from each of those sets are pretty cheap, the packs themselves are virtually impossible to find, so the price goes skyward. Sure, you could buy some Darksteel boosters and pray you get awesome cards and make a profit, but considering &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trollandtoad.com/p112351.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;those are around&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizardscupboard.com/darksteel-booster-pack-p-15661.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;$8 apiece now&lt;/a&gt; that's virtually impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other problem is actually finding people to buy your singles (you could sell in bulk, but that's going to hurt your profits even more). Considering that there's &lt;a href=&quot;http://tcgplayer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;massive websites&lt;/a&gt; now that are devoted to nothing but selling singles and &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.tcgplayer.com/product.aspx?id=58058&amp;amp;partner=WWWTCG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;aggregate the results from tons of different sellers&lt;/a&gt;, you're going to have some tough competition. Even if people learn that they can buy cards from you, you'll have to at least match the prices offered on these sites if you want to stay marketable. You also have to have a LOT of cards available for sale, so get ready to buy 10 booster boxes so you can boast having all the mythic rares in a set (just like every other major card seller will).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The owner of our local card shop does a great business selling fat packs of sets that went out of print over a year ago online, and easily gets more than $80 for them. He personally told me he took all of his money out of the stock market and put it into Magic because the rate of return is infinitely better. See those Avacyn Restored Fat Packs for $35? Imagine what they'll sell for in 2016 and you'll pity yourself for not buying an extra 5 now... (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2007/steven-stadnicki&quot;&gt;Steven's&lt;/a&gt; informative comment on the block sets generally being a better investment than core sets as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this isn't exactly what you were asking for, but if you want to make money buying and selling Magic products, actually opening them is probably one of the worst ways to do so IMHO. There's always the risk that prices will go down if the economy worsens or the game goes out of style, but that risk is inherent is virtually any investment nowadays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T17:42:07.093" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="552" CreationDate="2012-07-25T01:31:36.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got real gold doubloons from The Great American Coin Co. They are about the size of a nickel, and are authentic looking, real metal coins based on the 17th century Spanish doubloon. They make the game so much more fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.greatamericancoincompany.com/c5/Shiny-Gold-Doubloon-Replicas-You-Choose-Quantity-p184.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.greatamericancoincompany.com/c5/Shiny-Gold-Doubloon-Replicas-You-Choose-Quantity-p184.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3088" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T01:31:36.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7954" CreationDate="2012-07-25T05:50:57.180" Score="4" ViewCount="15597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am programming a game of jenga however I have a problem where the player can place down 2 blocks on the top of the tower, and leave no room for a 3rd block? Is there any rule here to prevent this? Can the player push the top blocks to straighten them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiWjF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FiWjF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of the problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player cannot take another turn because placing the next block anywhere on the top level will mean it will fall down. The player cannot start a new level either, because a level of the tower must be completed before progress&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3089" LastEditorUserId="3089" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T23:37:32.690" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T23:37:32.690" Title="In Jenga, what happens if there are 2 blocks on the top of the tower blocking the way for the 3rd block?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2012-07-25T06:28:46.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/jenga.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; on Hasbro's site say that you can touch other blocks with a single hand, and you must complete a 3 block story. I don't see why it would be unacceptable to either fix the top story with your hand directly to accept a third block, or nudge the top blocks in place with a block in your hand to complete the story. Clearly, if you are required to make a 3-block story, the blocks must fit across the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While stacking, always complete a 3-block story before starting a higher one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can touch other blocks to find a loose one - but if you move a block out of place, you must fix it (using only one hand) before touching another block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mass market game. The rules are written to be as easily understood as possible, not a game like Advance Squad Leader or Magic: the Gathering where the rules are written to close every possible loophole. The rules don't define what 'fix' means or 'out of place', but since you are supposed to create the top story with 3 blocks, those three blocks must fit on the story. The rules also don't prevent you from placing your top block perpendicular, but with nearly half the block extending over the edge of the tower, but I contend that a piece placed like that is &amp;quot;out of place&amp;quot; and is subject to the fixing rule. To fix a block is to move it back to its relative position in my mind. (Example: Top of the tower, center block.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several digital versions exist for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jenga.us.com/about.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iOS, Android, Wii&lt;/a&gt;, etc. You could always see how the rules were interpreted for those electronic versions and copy their behavior. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://itunes.apple.com/gb/app/jenga/id392915994?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Jenga&lt;/a&gt; version for iPhone allows you to nudge any pieces you want during your turn to 'fix' them (or ruin them actually). The iPhone developers consulted with the original game designer Leslie Scott in the making of the game. In this implementation, a player could place 2 blocks on top to prevent an opponent from placing the third block of a story, but his opponent could just nudge those pieces on top to make room for his piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.naturalmotiongames.com/games/jenga/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;NaturalMotion Games&lt;/a&gt; worked closely with Leslie Scott, the inventor of Jenga, to create the most authentic Jenga experience ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“I’m delighted by how the team at NaturalMotion Games has so skillfully captured the essence and universal appeal of Jenga,  while adding new and thrilling dimensions to my original game.” – Leslie Scott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T13:04:51.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7793" CreationDate="2012-07-25T10:16:11.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sort of, I certainly think people do something like this when they first look at their hands (even if they don't call it SWOT). Also analyzing play for a squeeze covers many of the SWOT areas if you squint hard enough (though interestingly threat cards aren't a threat)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;strength = your squeeze card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;weakness = your threat cards (possibly also communication cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;opportunities = the squeeze itself/opponents discard under your squeeze card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;threat = the opponents busy cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I'm sure many other areas of play will also be mappable to SWOT. I suspect that this isn't covered more as we generally have much mores specific methods to analyze a hand for different situations  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="594" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T10:26:35.587" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T10:26:35.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-07-25T13:11:04.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently saw a beautiful solution for this problem in the game &lt;strong&gt;Ora et Labora&lt;/strong&gt;. It uses a wheel which you turn after a round is finished. The wheel mechanism updates not only the costs of the available goods, it can also trigger events (here settlement phases). Depending whether you play with 1,2,3,4 players or according to the fast-game or normal-game rules, there will be a unique wheel to keep the game balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn more, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOlrBDsltrg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; that reviews the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3069" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T13:11:04.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9506" CreationDate="2012-07-25T14:07:36.210" Score="4" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;In FASA's &lt;strong&gt;Circus Imperium&lt;/strong&gt;, are you allowed to turn your chariot around on an oval track?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the tactics suggested during a previous game was for a player who has no chance of winning to turn around and kamikaze the lead player with a head on crash. The logic being, is your loss is worth my death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are rules for head on collisions when we have them with the figure-8 track. Would you allow the player to turn around and go the wrong way down the track? Is a full turn penalty enough? Having to start/finish in the inside/outside lane?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T19:31:15.790" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T19:31:15.790" Title="Can you turn around in Circus Imperium?" Tags="|circus-imperium|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7492" CreationDate="2012-07-25T15:21:25.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way is for units which cannot move while hidden. They can simply start off hidden with a counter one every location. When you want to activate a hidden unit, turn over one of the counters. If people can search a location for hidden units, then let them look at a counter and discard/replace it. Alternatively you can merely write down where they are and reveal them whenever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Written approaches lack the transparency of the counter method though, since you could easily cheat or forget a unit is in a location where it should have been revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to move hidden  units, you could swap two neighbouring location counters. This will give clues to the other players where units might be moving, however. You could possibly allow more then one move at a time so some might be real and some fake. This approach has the advantage that you cannot accidentally lose track of your hidden unit, and forget they should have been killed/revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2012-07-25T15:30:10.553" LastActivityDate="2012-07-25T15:30:10.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-07-25T15:45:39.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a solution for 3 players and more that only needs one object to move and only at&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Brazening! time&lt;/em&gt; so it is unlikely to be forgotten.&#xA;I think it meets all your requirements and might blend in your game&#xA;without looking too artificial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In its basic form the number of turns between &lt;em&gt;Brazening! times&lt;/em&gt; depends&#xA;on the number of player which may, or may not be a good feature,&#xA;depending on your secret game mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that &lt;em&gt;Brazening!&lt;/em&gt; happens when the player has the Brazen&#xA;token during his turn.&#xA;The &lt;em&gt;Brazen token&lt;/em&gt; might be anything but making it substantially big&#xA;(such as the totem in Jungle Speed) decrease the likelihood of&#xA;forgetting it.&#xA;The &lt;em&gt;Brazen token&lt;/em&gt; is passed from player to player at each &lt;em&gt;Brazening!&#xA;time&lt;/em&gt; in the opposite sens of the change of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following drawing explains it for four players marked by numbered&#xA;circles.&#xA;The turn direction is indicated in orange and the &lt;em&gt;Brazen token&lt;/em&gt; passing&#xA;direction is in blue.&#xA;The &lt;em&gt;Brazen token&lt;/em&gt; is figured by the blue 'B' and the turn by the orange&#xA;'T'.&#xA;The number of the turn is written in orange in the centre square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zijeZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Sequence of turns for four players&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this simple mechanic, you can adjust the number of turn&#xA;between &lt;em&gt;Brazening! times&lt;/em&gt; by altering the passing rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;em&gt;Brazening!&lt;/em&gt; requires some specific actions to be done, then you can&#xA;ask the player having the token to do it so the player doing the &lt;em&gt;Brazening!&lt;/em&gt; changes every time. It might even been done &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the object, thus making it blend smoothly with the game theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2676" LastEditorUserId="2676" LastEditDate="2012-07-26T13:48:47.520" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T13:48:47.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7346" CreationDate="2012-07-26T00:19:33.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White: Excels at creating hoards of small creatures to overwhelm the opponent. It is also the color able to most easily handle any permanent type. It's weaknesses come from the restrictions placed on it's removal. Every spell has a drawback, whether it be sorcery speed, temporary nature, or hitting your creatures as well as your opponents. Ex: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20the%20Townsfolk&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgement&quot;&gt;Day of Judgement&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3086" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T00:19:33.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2012-07-26T12:15:17.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having slept on this issue (sleeping on Jenga - ouch) I've decided to change my previous answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state you must &quot;stack the block on top of the tower at right angles to the blocks just below it&quot;.  I would contend that &quot;stack&quot; does not simply mean &quot;place&quot; - or else the rules would have used that word.  Looking up a definition of &quot;to stack&quot;, you will generally discover something along the lines of &quot;to &lt;em&gt;neatly&lt;/em&gt; arrange&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of Jenga, neat arrangement must imply the sort of three-by-three formation that the tower starts from.  As such, I would say that if you leave your block haphazardly on the top of the tower, &lt;strong&gt;you have failed to stack it&lt;/strong&gt; and cannot be considered to have completed your move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your scenario is therefore easily resolvable - just request of the previous player that they tidy up the top of the tower before the next player starts their move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say that I have played with &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; people whose idea of a fun game of Jenga move is to destabilise the tower as much as possible before passing the go on.  While I would describe this as outside the spirit of the rules as plainly stated in the rulebook, I don't see much wrong with a house style of &quot;screw-you Jenga&quot;, where anything at all is fair game in the course of a move, as long as one block is taken from somewhere in the tower and left somewhere at the top of the tower at the end.  However the consent of all players to play in this mode should probably be obtained beforehand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T12:15:17.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7953" CreationDate="2012-07-26T13:14:35.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Placing the blocks on top is not usually part of the &quot;fun&quot; of Jenga.  For this reason all digital implementations of the game that I have seen have always just let you pick 1 of the 3 legal spots and automatically placed the tile leaving room for others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T13:14:35.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7817" CreationDate="2012-07-26T17:35:40.453" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take any two normal dice of different colors and denote one as the positive die and one as the negative die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2012-07-26T17:35:40.453" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2012-07-26T18:36:51.903" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing Androminion on my phone my highest score is 920.  I haven't been able to beat this yet but one day I'm sure to get lucky and do it.&#xA;Here is the setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards in play:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Vineyard        (0p)  &#xA;University      (2p) +2 Actions  &#xA;Bridge          (4)  +1 Buy, +1 Gold&#xA;Silk Road       (4)  &#xA;Gardens         (4)  &#xA;Duke            (5)  &#xA;Wharf           (5)  +1 Buy, +2 Cards (+1 Buy, +2 Cards next turn)  &#xA;Council Room    (5)  +1 Buy, +4 Cards (...)  &#xA;City            (5)  +2 Actions, +1 Card (...)  &#xA;Kings Court         (7)  Play an action card three times&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My ending hand:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;920 VPs  &#xA;Estate x14: 14 VPs  &#xA;Duchy x10: 30 VPs  &#xA;Province x10: 60 VPs  &#xA;Colony x6: 60 VPs  &#xA;Duke x12: 120 VPs  &#xA;Vineyard x12: 192 VPs  &#xA;Gardens x12: 180 VPs  &#xA;SilkRoad x12: 264 VPs  &#xA;Curse x0: 0 VPs  &#xA;Victory Tokens: 0 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3097" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T18:39:13.503" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T18:39:13.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2012-07-27T02:36:10.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goons + Ambassador allows for potentially infinite scores (VP chips from Goons purchases and Ambassadors to return cards to the supply so the game never ends on piles). Obviously some serious support would be necessary in terms of drawing, +actions to play all the Goons, and likely KC to return cards to the supply fast enough with Ambassador.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T02:36:10.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2012-07-27T13:13:24.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to amplify the rules cited in a previous answer, on any given turn, you can BUILD an industrial complex, or you can build UNITS on a completed one. But you can't do BOTH on the same turn in the same place. It's unreasonable to expect this in any game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you have to own the complex at the beginning of your turn to build. If it fell into enemy hands, and you recaptured it, you can't build units there either. (That is, you can't &quot;recapture&quot; and &quot;build&quot; on the same turn in the same place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-07-27T19:59:17.473" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T19:59:17.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-07-27T19:51:10.173" Score="11" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember a simple but interesting dice game, I remember the rules but I don't know its name. I would like to know its name to be able to look up stuff about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is played with two 6-sided dice. The score of a throw is the two-digit number built from the two results, the higher number first, except when the two dice roll the same, these are worth more. For example, 32 is beaten by 51 which in turn is beaten by 22 (double-two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The players (usually 3, 4 or slightly more) take turns throwing both dice but hiding the result, and announcing it loudly. The next player has to say a bigger score than the previous one &lt;sub&gt;(except for a double-six, which, if I remember correctly, can be played on a previous double-six)&lt;/sub&gt;, regardless of his own result. A player, before throwing his own dice, has the possibility to claim that the previous player lied. This, and only this, ends the game. If the previous player told the truth, he wins, if not, the one who exposed him wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is enough to accurately identify the game :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2321" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T05:53:09.650" Title="Looking for the name of a 2d6 game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2012-07-27T20:20:13.233" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Mexicali&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a variant of Liar's Dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variant in question is, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liar%27s_dice#Mexican&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, called &lt;em&gt;Mexican&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Mexicali&lt;/em&gt;, and is typically a drinking game. My preference is for Mexicali.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other liars dice variants are typically 5 dice, not two, but the play's much the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-27T20:20:13.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7977" CreationDate="2012-07-30T11:12:59.810" Score="15" ViewCount="24233" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fellow board game player wants to test his game prototype, which uses a number of hex pieces (prefreably smaller than Catan or Eclipse ones). Is there a place to buy some blank ones? We could then use adhesive paper labels printed on inkjet printer. Or maybe there is a place to send full-hex graphic design and receive cutted pieces? Alternatively, do you have working DIY methods for cutting uniform hexes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3106" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:52:26.630" Title="Where to buy or how to cut blank hexes for own game prototype?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7978" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:59:02.723" Score="7" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2004 Oracle ruling for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=1117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jandor Ring&lt;/a&gt;, above, states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do not have the card still in your hand, you can't pay the cost. There is currently no way to prove that it was the card you drew except to get a judge or 3rd party involved, or to put cards you draw aside until you decide whether or not to use this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds incredibly mimsy in an age where the Miracle mechanic exists and is (I would hope) watertight for tournament play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does Jandor's Ring work under latest MtG rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: If you (say) just resolved &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divination&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt;, and wanted to use Jandor's Ring, could you discard either of the two cards drawn, just the last one drawn, or what? (Sorry to be so obsessed about the arcane workings of a card which presumably never &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; sees non-casual play...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:31:22.273" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T20:26:35.813" Title="How does Jandor's Ring work with modern Magic rules?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2012-07-30T14:12:15.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;at the Wikipedia entry for hexagons(&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexagon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexagon&lt;/a&gt;) there is a really neat gif on how to draw a normal hexagon with a compass and a straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I've used &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TheGameCrafter.com&lt;/a&gt; in the past. They have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/parts/blank-hex-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hex playing cards&lt;/a&gt;. although that's probably larger then catan. (3.75in X 3.25in). and you can even get blanks there (if they have them in stock.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3108" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T16:55:07.857" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T16:55:07.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2012-07-30T14:32:57.067" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can buy blank hex pieces. Print&amp;amp;Play Productions offers cardboard hex tiles in several different sizes through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardsandbits.com/advanced_search_result.php?searchwords=Shapes&amp;amp;searchwords_pid=&quot;&gt;Boards &amp;amp; Bits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Chipboard Shapes - Hex 1.19&quot; [35 pcs] $2.00&#xA;Chipboard Shapes - Hex 1.5&quot;  [20 pcs] $2.00&#xA;Chipboard Shapes - Hex 2.2&quot;  [11 pcs] $2.00&#xA;Chipboard Shapes - Hex 2.6&quot;  [22 pcs] $3.00&#xA;Chipboard Shapes - Hex 3.9&quot;  [8 pcs]  $3.00&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also get wooden hexes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.woodnshop.com/CRAFT_SQUARES_RECTANGLES_OVALS_CIRCLES.htm&quot;&gt;WoodNShop&lt;/a&gt; for $0.15-$0.42 each, or at a discount by the 100s. I am unsure if these would fit your purposes for tile laying, as I have heard complaints that the tile dimensions are not uniform enough for such a purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; C/O HEXAGON 1/8 X 1 $0.15&#xA; C/O HEXAGON 1/8 X 2 $0.20&#xA; C/O HEXAGON 1/8 X 1 $0.32&#xA; C/O HEXAGON 1/8 X 1 $0.42&#xA; C/O HEXAGON 1/4 X 2 $0.20&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielmaterial.de/english/index.html?counters_hexagons.htm&quot;&gt;plastic tiles&lt;/a&gt;, if you are so inclined. With a little bit of work to remove the mesh backing, you could use actual hexagonal tiles from your local &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100671895/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&amp;amp;langId=-1&amp;amp;keyword=Hexagon&amp;amp;storeId=10051#specifications&quot;&gt;hardware store&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any board game manufacturer that creates hex tiles with custom graphics. Board game maufacturers are capable of creating protype board games, but my guess is the cost is prohibitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cut your own uniform hex tiles, you are going to need a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.accucutcraft.com/featured/grandemark-multi-craft-cutting-machine.html&quot;&gt;die cutter&lt;/a&gt; ($600), and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.viktorygame.com/viktoryiihistory/#improvedhex&quot;&gt;custom die&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably don't even need hex tiles for testing purposes. If the hex tiles need not be rotated, then square tiles can be offset every other row for the same effect as a hex tile. If orientation is important, wooden tiles/disks can be substituted for hex tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T14:44:00.233" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T14:44:00.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7975" CreationDate="2012-07-30T14:56:36.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jandor%20Ring&quot;&gt;Jandor Ring&lt;/a&gt; doesn't work under the current MtG rules. Luckily, it is too expensive in converted mana cost to see serious tournament play, but if it was your answer exists within the ruling you quoted. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/27513377/Jandors_Ring&amp;amp;post_num=5#493762233&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;current rules&lt;/a&gt; don't support a way of doing this, technically. (&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; You added an additional question regarding which card could be discarded from a multi-card draw spell. If you examine the Oracle wording in the online Gatherer, you will note that you can only discard the last drawn card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;402.3. A player may arrange his or her hand in any convenient fashion and look at it as much as he or she wishes. A player can’t look at the cards in another player’s hand but may count those cards at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the current rules don't support the card, because there is no easy way to achieve the desired behavior, the rulings tell you how to handle using the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;get a judge or put cards you draw aside until you decide whether or not to use this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to the effect, but even more restrictive than a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sylvan%20Library&quot;&gt;Sylvan Library&lt;/a&gt; (which has seen tournament play). With this card, you must keep cards you drew this turn separate from the cards that are in your hand if you intend on returning one of those cards this turn. (example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; cast during your upkeep). The rules don't specifically tell you to keep your hand separate from the Brainstorm cards, but if you intend to return a Brainstorm card, you must keep them separate to preserve the game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be interested in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/27558797/New_Phyrexia_Rules_Update&amp;amp;post_num=8#494643997&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on the subject of cards currently not supported by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-30T21:30:42.023" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T21:30:42.023" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7975" CreationDate="2012-07-30T15:28:06.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Miracle achieves it's function by revealing the card and keeping it revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93b If a player chooses to reveal a card using its miracle ability, he or she plays with that card revealed until that card leaves his or her hand, that ability resolves, or that ability otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jandor's Ring is better that Miracle since you don't have to reveal the card. All you have to do is set it aside (literally or by marking it). For example, you could take it out of its sleeve. You could slide a bookmark into its sleeve. You could use a paperclip. You could reveal it and keep it revealed like one does for Miracle. etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put cards you draw aside until you decide whether or not to use this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From a ruling for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=1117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jandor's Ring&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2021-04-03T20:26:35.813" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T20:26:35.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="7980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7975" CreationDate="2012-07-30T20:08:22.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your edit, &quot;Draw two cards&quot; is parsed by the rules as &quot;Draw a card.  Draw a card.&quot;  For the current oracle wording of Jandor's Ring, &quot;the last card you drew this turn&quot; is in fact distinctly the second one picked up from Divination.  It's two draw events in succession, not a simultaneous addition of two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;120.2. Cards may only be drawn one at a time. If a player is instructed to draw multiple cards, that player performs that many&#xA;  individual card draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T20:08:22.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2012-07-30T20:44:12.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quilters and schools often use die-cutters to make shaped pieces. Hexagons are one of the standard die types, and are available in a variety of sizes. Many cut multiples at once, tho the standard sized template is a 5x8&quot; block with 1 large, or 2, 4, or 6 hexagons of smaller sizes (3&quot;, 2&quot;, 1&quot; face to face)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search for Hexagon die cut to find more variety than is worth listing here. Craft stores and school supply stores often also have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use them, however, you'll want a die-cutting press - itself a hundred dollar item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T20:44:12.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2012-07-30T22:54:37.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another source worth checking out, specifically for the games market, is Blue Panther LLC: they seem to make pieces specifically for gaming and can do custom cuts or engravings when you're ready to take that step.  Have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluepantherllc.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bluepantherllc.com/&lt;/a&gt; for the details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done my own prototyping with wood pattern blocks, an educational tool you can find at a lot of school-supply stores; I was lucky enough to find a bag of nothing but hexes, but the shop I got it from has no idea what the model/part number on that bag was (if any) and I can't seem to find specifically hex-shaped pieces online, just a set of hexes, triangles, squares, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-07-30T22:54:37.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7986" CreationDate="2012-07-31T01:44:33.527" Score="4" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I rez &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/cards/rasmin-bridger/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rasmin Bridger&lt;/a&gt; after the Runner has passed a piece of ICE, does he get to pay its bit immediatly, or does it take effect only after the following ICE?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T00:40:14.047" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T00:40:14.047" Title="If I rez Rasmin Bridger after an ICE, does the Runner have to pay its bit immediately?" Tags="|netrunner-ccg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7987" CreationDate="2012-07-31T02:00:40.013" Score="4" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I make a successful run on the HQ or R&amp;amp;D, do I have to declare I'm going to use a Mole before watching the cards I would access, or can I access them, and then decide if I want to access more (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/cards/hq-mole/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HQ&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/cards/r-and-d-mole/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;R&amp;amp;D&lt;/a&gt; Moles) or trash them (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/cards/mercenary-subcontract/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mercenary Subcontract&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T00:39:01.740" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T00:39:01.740" Title="Do I get to declare HQ Mole before watching the first cards I'd access anyway?" Tags="|netrunner-ccg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7984" CreationDate="2012-07-31T03:22:04.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of a specific official ruling on this, but I believe you can access the cards you would normally access, and then decide if you want to use HQ or R&amp;amp;D Mole to view more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on the fact the runner does have the ability to use cards (such as Mercenary Subcontract) that affect the cards currently being accessed, and that the Runner can intermingle card draws with accessing upgrades&#xA;(&quot;&lt;i&gt;If you are accessing multiple cards from HQ, you can choose the order in which you take picks, and intermingle them with accessing upgrades as you wish.  (Sparky, Netrunner-L, 11/18/96)&lt;/i&gt;&quot;, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/33262/netrunner-rulings-and-errata-1-70&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;errata&lt;/a&gt;), which seems to imply an ability to use abilities while accessing , even though it's not listed as one of the times the Corp can rez cards (&quot;&lt;i&gt;Either player can use special effects during the same times the Corp can rez cards.  However,if the effect requires a cost of one or more actions, it can only be used during that player's turn.  (Netrunner FAQ v1.0, 5/23/96)&lt;/i&gt;&quot;, also from the errata; &quot;&lt;i&gt;We can only rez other cards at the following times:&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at the start of either player's turn;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after each action;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;during a run while the Runner approaches a piece of ice and while the Runner passes a piece of ice;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just before the Runner accesses a fort's contents, whether or not the Runner encountered ice during the run.&lt;/i&gt;&quot;&lt;/ul&gt; from the rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: This appears to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/787702/simultaneous-win&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;subject of debate&lt;/a&gt; on boardgamegeek.  I agree that it would simplify several things to errata the card to &quot;Use this ability only when you are about to access cards from R&amp;amp;D.&quot;, but as written it seems to allow use after accessing cards.  The main point against it is this bit from the errata: &quot;&lt;i&gt;The Runner chooses the order in which he or she will access cards, including any draws or face-down cards as well. That's the order in which they affect the Runner. If the Runner survives accessing all the cards there, the Runner can then score agenda and pay to trash nodes and upgrades. (Sparky, Netrunner-L, 6/12/96) The effect of each accessed card must be dealt with separately and immediately, before accessing the next card. (Sparky, Netrunner-L, 11/18/96)&lt;/i&gt;&quot;.  This seems to suggest that while the Runner can choose the order, they may not be able to initiate further accesses after accessing some cards.  I would probably suggest making a house errata as suggested above, in order to simplify things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastEditorUserId="3104" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T04:00:44.497" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T04:00:44.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2012-07-31T03:28:27.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of an official ruling on this, but I believe that they will pay a bit.  You can rez Rasmin Bridger &quot;during a run while the Runner approaches a piece of ice and while the Runner passes a piece of ice&quot; (one of the times the rules lists as the Corp being allowed to rez cards) and since the runner is still passing the piece of ice, they will have to pay a bit /after/ passing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3104" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T03:28:27.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7984" CreationDate="2012-07-31T04:22:53.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official rulings, because an official (&lt;strong&gt;Wizards of the Coast&lt;/strong&gt;) hasn't yet ruled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last official rules errata was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;v1.7 from March, 2000&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;March 11, 2000 - Netrunner Rulings, v1.70 - Author: Top Runners' Conference   List of official rulings used by the Top Runners' Conference. It is compiled primarily from rulings made on the Netrunner mailing list by representatives of Wizards of the Coast. Covers Limited, Proteus and Classic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next official rules errata v1.8 has been stalled, you can read the discussion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/forum/index.php?thread=1138&amp;amp;page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread here&lt;/a&gt;. There is errata concerning the Moles cards, but I do not believe that WotC has provided an official ruling regarding the matter within their &lt;a href=&quot;http://oracle.wizards.com/archives/netrunner-l.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mailing list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D. all topics concerning errata and clarifications discussed on netrunneronline, but maybe not completely validated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D10a. HQ Mole - ... Clarification: HQ Mole triggers during the “access cards” phase, and can be used anytime during this phase access. When Runner has HQ Mole installed, he or she &lt;strong&gt;may first access the card(s) normally accessed without using HQ Mole&lt;/strong&gt;, processing any immediate effect that would occur due to this access (like the 2 Net damage of Setup!). After that, he or she may still trigger HQ Mole to access the additional cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when Runner has multiple HQ Moles installed, he or she may use them one by one (and processing for each Mole any immediate effect). In other words, &lt;strong&gt;Runner is not required to declare at once how many HQ Moles will be used&lt;/strong&gt;, but can decide after each HQ Mole used, if he or she will trigger another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that WotC hasn't ruled on the matter, but netrunner online (not official), may have come to a decision. This can be observed on their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/set/proteus/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;67 HQ Mole - When Runner has HQ Mole installed, he may first look at the card(s) that he would access without using HQ Mole, and after that, he may still trigger HQ Mole to access the additional cards. In the same sense, when Runner has multiple HQ Moles installed, he may use them one by one; i.e. &lt;strong&gt;he is not required to declare how many HQ Moles he will use already when his run is successful&lt;/strong&gt;. When Runner has finally decided how many HQ Moles he uses and after looking at all the cards stored in HQ that he will access, he decides in which order he accesses the cards. As always, he may intermingle with upgrades accessed from HQ.(–Netrunner Online)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T14:01:26.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7983" CreationDate="2012-07-31T06:42:41.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it only takes effect on the following ICE. While I also have not seen any official ruling on this card, it hinges on several different rules. When does Rasmin Bridger's ability trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After Runner passes each piece of ice on this fort, Runner must pay &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/documents/CB5%20RFC%20b.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt; or end the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/documents/CB5%20RFC%20b.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chart, step 32&lt;/a&gt;, the ICE is passed and this is where the effect triggers if Rasmin Bridger had already been rezzed. If he had not been rezzed, the next opportunity to rez him would be after the runner decides to &lt;strong&gt;jack out&lt;/strong&gt; or not (step 35).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunneronline.com/rules/?s=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; only mentions that a Rezzing a Corporation Card can occur (among other times):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;during a run &lt;strong&gt;while&lt;/strong&gt; the Runner approaches a piece of ice and &lt;strong&gt;while&lt;/strong&gt; the Runner passes a piece of ice;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't really clarify the timing of &lt;strong&gt;while.&lt;/strong&gt; The closest thing regarding timing is the Run Protocol - Overview section. It seems to indicate that Upgrades must be rezzed during the approach or just after the runner doesn't jack out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Runner passes all of the pieces of ice (or if there is no ice to be passed in the first place), he or she &lt;strong&gt;gets one last chance to jack out&lt;/strong&gt;. If the Runner doesn't jack out, we have one last opportunity to rez any of the nodes and upgrades inside the fort, and unless these end the run, the run is considered successful, and the Runner accesses the appropriate cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-07-31T13:40:16.110" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T13:40:16.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7990" CreationDate="2012-07-31T11:20:20.317" Score="6" ViewCount="1512" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played about 7 games of Cosmic Encounter, and by now I've learned that you need to adjust your strategy to take full advantage of your alien power in order to get the best odds of winning. Most of the aliens had powers for which it was clear both why it was good and how I should use it to its maximum potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I still haven't been able to figure out how to best play my very first alien, Fido:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have the power to Fetch&lt;/strong&gt;. After encounter cards are discarded at the end of an encounter, you may use this power to retrieve one of the discarded cards and offer it to another player. If the card is refused, you may keep it. If the card is accepted, the other player keeps the card, then you may either retrieve one ship from the warp or draw one card from the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I offer bad cards, I get stuck keeping them. If I offer good cards, my opponents keep them and all I get to do is draw a card. If I offer mediocre cards, I get a result somewhere in the middle. How do I take advantage of this power with maximum benefit to myself and minimum benefit to my opponents? How do I determine what cards to offer to whom? Is it just me, or is this one of the weaker powers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T19:37:11.140" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T19:37:11.140" Title="Strategies for playing Fido in Cosmic encounter?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7989" CreationDate="2012-07-31T12:11:13.937" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not one of the strongest powers, but it's well suited for diplomacy.  First, some general principles of Cosmic diplomacy that apply with this power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Diplomacy is &lt;em&gt;active&lt;/em&gt;.  Don't wait for compromise cards, get out there and make pre-emptive deals.  Arrange to be &lt;em&gt;everyone's&lt;/em&gt; offensive ally whenever possible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Powers are not all equal.  If the game has a dominant power, strengthen other players against it - it's good for you too.  If not, Cosmic shifts the attacks and alliances every encounter, so re-evaluate your advantage constantly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Form defensive alliances for extra card draw when you think the defender has a good shot - this is vastly overlooked, especially with Fantasy Flight's new 'reward' deck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Always hold back one good encounter card, if &lt;em&gt;remotely&lt;/em&gt; possible.  You don't want to be on 4 colonies with no chance to win by yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now some specifics about Fido:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't underestimate the value of steady resource gain.  Fido should gain a card &lt;em&gt;every single encounter&lt;/em&gt;.  Your aim should be to offer the lowest-value encounter card that a player might actually accept; in the long run your constant draws will pay off with just a few useful cards - which is all it takes in CE.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Offer strong cards to players who are down to 1 card (or who you think are out of encounter cards).  Redrawing is a big deal in Cosmic; they'd often be better with a whole new hand than taking the card.  Whether they take it or give it to you, you're up on the deal.  (Obviously, does not apply if player has 4 foreign colonies and a turn coming up!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Against Anti-matter, Tripler, or other powers that hate high cards, you're golden.  Scoop up and offer them the highest cards, all the time.  (Don't give the Tripler 8s or 9s!)  Consider offering 5-7 to the Tripler or negatives to the Anti-matter, but not if they're already in a good position to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Offer medium cards to players who've shown several useful flares.  They're probably low on encounter cards, and don't want to redraw and lose the flares.  So they have reasons to accept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If any other power has good trade / support uses for excess cards, make them your favoured trade parter.  Philanthropist, etc. all have good reasons to accept your excess card whatever it is, so you can bid low and still get a draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In negotiations, trade for a good flare if you don't have one, even giving up strong cards.  Because your power lets you draw cards reliably, you should take a long time to redraw your hand, if ever, so a good flare is better than usual for you.  (Does not apply with Mayfair-style flares.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make people promise to invite you as offensive ally in exchange for good cards during or after.  That's a win-win for you - with a good card in hand, they can win the battle.  (Repeat four times with different players and you only need one good card in hand to win.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, don't do this with players who are ahead of you in foreign colonies, except at the very start.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Important subtactic: When allied offensively, get the player to play his &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; attack card, not a medium-to-good one.  Promise to retrieve it and offer it back after the encounter.  You greatly improve the odds of a challenge win, find out a player's best attack, leave the cards no worse for you than they were at start of turn, and are paid a defender reward for it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In smaller games, use cards as bribes to restrict alliances too.  If you make yellow promise &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to invite red as offensive ally on a winning fight, then do the same in reverse next time, you've slowed them both up for a turn compared to the scenario where they cooperate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to talk the other players into house-ruling that Fido can make the extra draw from the reward deck.  (This is a common and reasonable house rule, given the wording of the power is the same as a defensive reward.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fido is one of the powers that was a popular homebrew before FFG brought it in to the new edition, and there are reasons for that.  It's not a great power for solo wins, but it's not at all terrible.  It's a reasonably good power for arranging joint victories in 5-6 player games.  It does require practiced judgement and persuasive diplomacy to use well, though - if that's not your play style, ask your group for a mulligan rule!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2012-07-31T12:11:13.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7992" CreationDate="2012-07-31T21:04:54.827" Score="4" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used Gloria Goldberg's Psychic Sensitivity to reveal the cards in the Ceremony Room, which contained Clue 1, which also says &quot;Reveal Objective&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I have to return the cards face down, does that mean the objective isn't revealed till I actually properly explore the room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T03:42:49.287" Title="If I Find the &quot;Objective Clue&quot; with Gloria's Psychic Sensitivity, Does That Reveal the Objective" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7991" CreationDate="2012-08-01T03:34:29.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Gloria only &lt;strong&gt;looks&lt;/strong&gt; at the cards, they are not revealed. Additionally, clue 1 is &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; the final clue to be discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording on Gloria's Psychic Sensitivity Ability is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Action: Once per game, &lt;strong&gt;look&lt;/strong&gt; at all Exploration cards in the room of your choice (you must then return them in the same order).&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; states (page 9):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Explore Action&lt;/strong&gt; - The most common action that investigators perform on their turn is Exploring a Room. During setup, the keeper places face-down exploration cards in every room on the game board. &lt;strong&gt;Investigators may reveal these cards&lt;/strong&gt; by performing an explore action in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clues&lt;/strong&gt;: These are the cards the investigators a ultimately attempting to discover. These cards have no artwork and are clearly labeled with a large number and a letter in the upper left corner. The number represents the level of the clue (&lt;strong&gt;clue 1 is always the final clue to be discovered&lt;/strong&gt;), while the letter only matters during setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T03:42:49.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7994" CreationDate="2012-08-01T16:16:22.880" Score="3" ViewCount="1528" Body="&lt;p&gt;When making a Privileged Attack, the rules say that no one else can &quot;interfere&quot; with it. &quot;Interfere&quot; is defined by the rules as spending money from your Illuminati group to aid either side. Can the attacking group and the defender group still spend money during a privileged attack? Can their respective Illuminati?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-02T19:36:57.117" LastActivityDate="2019-03-14T21:49:22.600" Title="Clarification on Privileged Attacks" Tags="|illuminati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7993" CreationDate="2012-08-01T17:04:36.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the attacker and defender groups and Illuminatis can spend money during a Privileged Attack.  A Privileged Attack only means that external parties are forbidden from interfering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you can justify this solely by reference to the traditional usages of English words: you don't &quot;interfere&quot; in your own attack on someone by bringing more resources to bear; neither do you &quot;interfere&quot; in your own defence by using everything in your power to defend yourself.  To &quot;interfere&quot;, both generally and also in this specific case, means to &quot;intrude into the affairs of others&quot;.  Attacker and defender are not &quot;others&quot; in this case, and can get involved in the struggle to the maximum of their ability and financial resources...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-01T17:04:36.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2012-08-01T21:32:28.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to your three sub-questions and adhering strictly to rules as written (RAW):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ad 1: No, you would not get the bonus for these two techs (Gen Synthesis and Dacxive Animators) as they both happen at the end of invasion combat which is outside the scope of the wording on the card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ad 2 and 3: Since the card does not state that it only provides its ability to ground forces but rather is a universal rule during invasion combat, I would say, yes it applies to both Mech units and Fighters with Graviton Negators since these are rolls that happen during invasion combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="919" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T13:51:38.567" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T13:51:38.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7443" CreationDate="2012-08-02T16:37:32.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I've been doing is to leave the Phenomena on the board and treat them as warp tunnels. When traveling to a phenomenal you encounter the phenomenal and then continue in a straight line to encounter a new plane (which may or may not have been visible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3122" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T16:37:32.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7220" CreationDate="2012-08-02T19:53:24.523" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the rules are ambiguous. The first rule says that a station may be used to share another player's claimed route. The second rule says that a station can be built even if there are no claimed routes into that city. The second rule doesn't mean that you are using one of those empty routes, it means you can build a station and then wait until one of the routes is claimed. Then you can use that route by using the station that you had already put there. The station enables you to share one route with another player, so that the route counts for both players at the same time.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3124" LastActivityDate="2012-08-02T19:53:24.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="7999" CreationDate="2012-08-03T00:10:41.870" Score="9" ViewCount="451" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the action cards on board are lacking in gaining money additions, what's your strategy in purchasing money vs action cards in the early rounds?  More money, or look for actions that drill through your deck (+X cards and + actions?)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T19:37:12.890" Title="Dominion Money Purchasing When Actions Lacking" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="7999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7998" CreationDate="2012-08-03T01:15:27.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer, of course, is &lt;em&gt;it depends&lt;/em&gt;. It depends on what's out there and where your deck is going. As a general rule of thumb, buy more money than you think you'll need. It's rare to draw a hand full of silvers mutter a curse under your breath. On your first turns, you should open by buying treasure or a money-producing cards unless you have a very good reason to do otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two issues tied up in this: making sure you have enough money to buy more/bigger cards later, and keeping the odds low of &amp;quot;collisions&amp;quot; of terminal actions so you can only use one. Buying a balance of action cards and treasure cards helps with both, but how much to buy depends on the specific action cards you're getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to create an overall strategy for the particular kingdom deck, and then try to get that deck working as quickly as possible. If you want several $3 or $4 card in your final deck, sure start buying them, but make sure you build the buying power to get the more expensive cards you want. Especially if you'll have extra buys (from Market, Goons, etc.) it's easy to pick up the small cards later. However, without Silver you might not get the big ones in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some illustrative examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Village is a terrible buy before you have other actions. The point of village is to play 2 actions after it; if you only play one action after it having a silver would have been better. In most cases, I don't buy Village until I have a couple of terminal actions already. Great Hall is even worse, the only reason to buy a Great Hall early on is if you're going for a combo that it helps (e.g. Conspirator), but even then a first turn silver will probably help you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card like Watchtower, on the other hand, can speed up your opening with it's card draw, and it mitigates the harm from collision with the ability to topdeck new buys, so Watchtower could work with another terminal or with money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a $5 or $6 card that you want to get ASAP (Witch, Mountebank, Goons), it might make sense to open Silver/Silver, though a Smithy or Watchtower could be just as effective. And an early Gold will help you buy those more expensive actions (and more Gold) for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Caravan comes to mind as a card that doesn't produce money but I'll usually buy it whenever I hit $4 until there aren't any left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chapel is a great card and is most effective when bought before the first shuffle, but it &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to be paired with something that produces money so you can get rid of those coppers fast, which means Silver if nothing else is available. (This one probably has a lot of exceptions, Chapel/$5 attack card could be good, or Chapel/Wharf would be nice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2021-11-05T19:37:12.890" LastActivityDate="2021-11-05T19:37:12.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8065" CreationDate="2012-08-03T02:45:57.730" Score="6" ViewCount="4928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the Aliens in Cosmic Encounter have alternate win conditions, some of which are very beneficial as they allow you to simultaneously pursue two paths to victory. However, I haven't really been able to figure out the real benefit of The Masochist's power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have the power to Hurt Yourself.&lt;/strong&gt; At the start of any player's&#xA;  regroup phase, before the offense retrieves a ship from the warp, use&#xA;  this power to win the game if you have lost all of your ships. Lost&#xA;  ships include those in the warp, those removed from the game, and&#xA;  those captured by other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You do not lose this power because of having too few home colonies,&#xA;  and you may still win the game via the normal manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first, I thought this would be awesome because all encounters become a win-win situation. If I win, I either get a colony or prevent my opponent from getting one, and if I lose, I lose more ships and get closer to winning. However, the 2 paths to victory seem pretty mutually exclusive, and I haven't really thought of a way to move toward both of them. Obviously moving towards just one is all I need to do for victory, but whenever I try to lose a lot of ships I worry that a Mobius Tubes will destroy all my hard-earned self-destruction, and whenever I play towards getting a lot of colonies I feel like I'm playing without a power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the best way to play the Masochist would be to work primarily toward colonies without much deliberate self-destruction, and view any lost ships earned along the way as an added benefit. How do I take advantage of this power with maximum benefit to myself and minimum benefit to my opponents? How do I determine when to deliberately hurt myself? Is it just me, or is this one of the weaker powers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T17:55:05.463" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T14:18:31.007" Title="Strategies for playing The Masochist in Cosmic Encounter?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8005" CreationDate="2012-08-03T10:22:59.413" Score="6" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in an online game I was playing yesterday and I wasn't confident in what would happen...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Pieceworker Occupation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Whenever you receive wood, clay, reed, stone or grain on an action space, you can buy one more of the same good for 1 food...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as the Landing Net Minor Improvement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Whenever you receive reed on an action space, you receive an additional 2 food...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have no food  in my supply and take the Reed action space. Can I use the additional 2 food gained with the Landing Net to buy an additional Reed with the Pieceworker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T14:01:42.870" Title="Pieceworker and Landing Net" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8008" CreationDate="2012-08-03T13:28:36.993" Score="8" ViewCount="2061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most beginners are taught to play &quot;second hand low.&quot; That is, play a low card if one is led to them, to give the partner a chance to take the trick. This is particularly to avoid situations where second hand plays, say, a king, and it is taken by partner's singleton ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all rules, it has some exceptions.  One is, play second hand high and grab the trick if you see a way to defeat the contract; e.g. running a suit in no trump. Another might be, if you let the opponents take a trick, it will be their game-winning trick (based on what you see on the board and infer from the bidding and play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these valid exceptions to &quot;second hand low?&quot; What are other exceptions to the rule?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T16:09:10.033" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:36:35.907" Title="In bridge, what are some exceptions to &quot;second hand low?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2012-08-03T13:48:49.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use what I call the &quot;three cut point&quot; rule. That is, my position is in danger if there are three cut points close to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the time being, your position is &quot;safe.&quot; There are only two cut points on the left side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main danger comes if white takes the ko. That potentially creates a bunch of other cut points. With the move, I might consider filling the ko and eliminating this aji. If white took the ko, I might connect at one of the cut points, and let white fill the ko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other danger is that White will play a insertion move on the right side, &quot;forking&quot; two Black stones. The one nearest the edge is a stray stone and can be given up. The one more toward the center needs to be protected, because losing it would create more cut points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T13:48:49.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5497" CreationDate="2012-08-03T13:50:59.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more a matter of etiquette than anything else. One, it creates a &quot;nice&quot; sound on the board. Two, it minimizes the possibility of displacing stones already on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T21:59:45.523" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T21:59:45.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8001" CreationDate="2012-08-03T14:01:23.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/34558/the-unofficial-agricola-compendium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;compendium&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Pieceworker is used before other cards, so you cannot convert goods that your receive from an occupation or improvement&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T14:01:23.140" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8017" CreationDate="2012-08-03T15:46:37.403" Score="4" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shaping Charm rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast this Spell to rotate all Creatures in your Ready Area up 1 Level, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the &quot;level&quot; of the creature is the number in the upper left hand corner, there are &quot;sub-levels&quot; for some of the creatures in which the level stays the same, but they gain a * ability.  We've been playing that the order of the faces on the bottom of the card is the &quot;Level-up&quot; order in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this an acceptable interpretation? Or should we just go with numerical level only, and if there is more than one option, allow the caster to choose which +1 level face to go to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on a related note, how does this affect the Demonic Overlord which has level faces of 1, 2, and 4.  Can I roll it from 2 to 4 with a shaping charm? Or must it be exactly 1 level higher than its current level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T11:29:43.943" Title="Does the Quarriors &quot;Shaping Charm&quot; allow me to rotate creatures to same level but with a burst (*)?" Tags="|quarriors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2012-08-03T15:51:49.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/688353/what-does-it-mean-to-level-up-with-the-shaping-cha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BGG post&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the case of already being at max level, there are no legal targets and so you would not be able to turn the die at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a die without a burst, you cannot turn it so that it is the same level with a burst. You may only turn it so that it is a level one higher. If there are multiple eligible sides to choose from, one with a burst and one without, you may choose which of those sides you'd like to turn the die to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the case of multiple legal targets, you choose the result. So if you are currently Level 1 and you have the choice of Level 2 with and without burst, pick whichever side you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-08-03T15:59:36.600" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T15:59:36.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8002" CreationDate="2012-08-03T18:18:33.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The going up to cash your winners is a good reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common reason to play second hand high is to deny an entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South below is in 3NT, you are West and you lead a heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;         AJT9x&#xA;         xxx&#xA;         xxx&#xA;         xx&#xA;&#xA;Kxx              Qxx&#xA;QJTx             xx&#xA;xx               QJTx &#xA;Jxxx             xxxx&#xA;         xx&#xA;         AKxx&#xA;         AKxx&#xA;         AKQ&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the bidding East/West know that South has no more than two spades (say the bidding goes 2C-2S-2NT-3NT starting with 2C by South, and East/West remaining silent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South has 8 top tricks and needs one more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South wins your heart Q with the K and leads a spade. At this point, you must play the K!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play low, declarer will play the 9. If East wins, declarer will make many overtricks (by repeating the diamond finesse). So East will have to duck this, but declarer will make his contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play the K, declarer can setup dummy's diamonds, but will not have an entry to cash them, and will only be able to make 8 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to play second hand high is to prevent declarer from ducking a trick to a safe hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;         xxx&#xA;         xxx&#xA;         Kxx&#xA;         xxxx&#xA;&#xA;AQxxx            Tx&#xA;Qx               JTx&#xA;xxx              QJTx &#xA;Jxx              xxxx&#xA;         KJx&#xA;         AK9xx&#xA;         Axx&#xA;         AK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South is in 3NT and you are East.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner leads a low spade, and declarer wins your T with the J. (If he ducks this, he is down immediately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now declarer plays a diamond to dummy's K and plays a heart. At this point, you must play the heart J or T. If you play low, declarer will stick in the 9, losing the trick to the safe hand, which cannot continue spades without losing a trick and a tempo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If declarer ducks your heart J, then you can push a spade through and beat the contract. So declarer will have to play the A or K, and partner will have to continue the good defence by dropping the heart Q! (else declarer can next play a low heart).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since declarer has no more entries to the dummy, your Tx is safe from being finessed with the K9, and declarer will go down ultimately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-08-03T18:18:33.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8378" CreationDate="2012-08-03T21:14:57.287" Score="4" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what cases does it pay off to take a scholar character early in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T19:52:03.510" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T19:52:03.510" Title="When should you take a scholar early in &quot;In The Year of the Dragon&quot;?" Tags="|in-the-year-of-the-dragon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8766" CreationDate="2012-08-03T21:24:24.713" Score="7" ViewCount="2275" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the red army in Neuroshima is the most powerful one, it has more tough and shield tiles than any other. On the other hand, it is very limited in movements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When playing one-to-one game against Moloch, what strategy should one choose to win?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can say, the best way is to move often and to destroy it as early as possible before it gets to use the nuke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T14:46:15.853" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T14:46:15.853" Title="How to kill the red army (Moloch) in Neuroshima-Hex" Tags="|neuroshima-hex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2012-08-04T00:12:10.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a ton of the EON version of Cosmic Encounter and can see how this would be an interesting and potentially very good power if the rules work the same in the later versions of CE. So here are some principals that could apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't lose all your tokens gradually, because then your opponents&#xA;will see what's coming and can stop you. You need to gather up&#xA;special cards until you can&#xA;lose all your tokens in one quick shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider all the possible special cards and what they do. I actually lost all but one token in a single turn of EON Cosmic Encounter once because every planet in my home system was simultaneously blown up through a combination of the Filth power and the Terrorist flare card. You may not have the Filth power (part of Cosmic Conflict expansion) but think about all the different powers and cards that do things like cause planets to explode or be evacuated, cause more than the maximum number of tokens be used on attack or defense, cause results or attack/defense to be switched/reversed, cause you to have more turns than you normally get, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do everything you can to delay using all the special cards in your hand (while protecting them to stay in your hand) until the moment you think you have a fairly good chance of playing them all right in a row with just the right timing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then do it. You might get stopped. Or you might not. But it will be one heck of a dramatic moment in the game, like the terrorist/filth play that eliminated 19 of my tokens in one shot, that I still remember to this day (incredibly, I came back to win a shared victory in that game with the person who nearly put me out of the game . . .)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's more. In my initial thinking about how I might win by losing with this power, I neglected to think about the benefits obtained by the &lt;em&gt;threat&lt;/em&gt; of losing. I would get myself invited more. Why? Because everyone would understand that I'll always contribute 4 tokens. I would also abandon all my home bases as there's no reason to keep any tokens there (since the power is retained anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could almost restate this power as &quot;you have the power to use your tokens extravagantly, and if this extravagance leads to heavy losses, your opponents will rescue your tokens from the warp to prevent you from winning.&quot; Being able to mount attacks (or ally with others) with no fear of suffering a permanent setback has to be worth something, though until play testing this power a number of times it's hard to know exactly how worth while it would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 1/23/14: I obtained the FFG version of Cosmic Encounter and have played enough games over the past month to have additional info. In games where tech cards are used, the Masochist has a significantly better chance to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the best tech card is the Omega Missile. It will take several turns to get all of your tokens on either a single planet or the Warp. Then you win at the start of any player's encounter by launching the Omega Missile on that planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Precursor Seed could be helpful with the right power such as the Machine or Amoeba but is more likely to result in a useless power and with cost 9 takes a long time to build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several other tech cards that are mildly useful, and potentially more useful when combined with other cards: Plasma Thrusters, Infinity Drive, and Delta Scanners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A general principle in Cosmic Encounters is that large hands give you more options and control over the game. With Masochist, it becomes almost mandatory to build a very large hand with many special cards that, when used with the right timing (and hopefully combined with a good, developed tech card), lead to a quick victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T14:18:31.007" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T14:18:31.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2012-08-04T06:02:54.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first case our protagonist's commander, currently pretending to be Malignus, will deal 25 damage, ending the game. A Legendary Creature that is designated as Commander retains this designation even if it later becomes something else. As such, combat damage dealt by the commander will count towards commander damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the designation of Commander is not a copyable characteristic, our antagonist would not lose the game in the second case (although he or she is well on their way to losing already.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3130" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T06:02:54.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8013" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-08-04T08:49:40.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game involves 2-5 players. It takes 60 to 120 minutes (the box says 75-100), depending on the number of people playing and their degree of acquaintance with the game. The rules are quite complicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to develop a province in an ancient China for a year. One turn in the game corresponds to one month, and almost every month corresponds to a disaster, from which the players should protect themselves by taking in different characters and gaining resources. Apart from protection, one should also aim at gaining as many points as one can. In the end of the game, the degree of one's province prosperity is also transformed into points, and the player with the highest amount of point wins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was designed by Stefan Feld in 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="3102" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T09:57:26.417" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T09:57:26.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8014" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-08-04T08:49:40.830" Score="0" Body="A strategy board game that involves a careful planning of gaining resources and acquiring characters with different skills." OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="3102" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T16:34:51.270" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T16:34:51.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8015" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-08-04T08:55:04.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T08:55:04.227" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T08:55:04.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8016" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-08-04T08:55:04.227" Score="0" Body="A strategy war game with 4 basic armies. The goal is to protect your headquarters and damage the headquarters of others by placing army units and modules on a hexagonal board." OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="3102" LastEditDate="2012-08-04T16:34:55.090" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T16:34:55.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8006" CreationDate="2012-08-04T10:53:14.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should go by the numerical level. If there is more than one option, the caster can choose which +1 Level die face to use. It is impossible for Demonic Overlord to rotate +1 Level from Level 2 (since the next level is 4), so it is unaffected. The rulebook covers what a Creature's level is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature Dice that show a Creature Icon can be “summoned.” You must spend Quiddity equal&#xA;to the &lt;strong&gt;Creature’s level (in the upper left corner of the die face)&lt;/strong&gt; to summon it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why settle for an &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/69596/comprehensive-card-reference-and-unofficial-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unofficial FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (regardless of how nicely it is laid out):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://quarriors.wikia.com/wiki/Shaping&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shaping Charm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; - Remember the upper-left number is the Level, so a die currently has a 1 then you can rotate it to any face with a 2, or if it is a 2 you can rotate it to any face with a 3.  We don't think you can change to a different face of the same level.  We also don't think you can increase the level of a Strong Primordial Ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an example in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/quarma/QuarmageddonRulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; explains a related rule, you cannot return a creature to the Ready Area on a different die face at the same level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shaping Cantrip&lt;/strong&gt; - Reaction: Cast this Spell to return one of your just destroyed Creatures to your Ready Area (at its same level) instead of putting it in the Used Pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; Quinn’s beloved Scavenging Goblin has just been destroyed by a mean old Strong Deathdealer. Fortunately, Quinn has a Shaping Cantrip in his Ready Area, which he casts to save his goblin at the last moment! &lt;strong&gt;Though he would like to change the goblin to a face with the Burst, he cannot rotate the die&lt;/strong&gt;, and must return the goblin to his Ready Area with the same (Burstless) face showing. Even though the goblin was saved, the Strong Deathdealer can still use his ability, immediately scoring Glory for his player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-04T11:29:43.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8019" CreationDate="2012-08-04T16:34:31.130" Score="23" ViewCount="3683" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first time playing this game last night.  My friend that was teaching me had only played a couple times.  Despite a quick rules reading we wanted to verify this sequence that happened to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the board was laid out, we flipped 6 tiles, among them Fool's Landing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I took my turn, but was unable to Shore Up the Fools's Landing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waters Rise!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fool's Landing is drawn and discarded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a quarter of the land cards drawn to start the game this seems like it would be a fairly common occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did we miss a rule somewhere?  Are there ways to ameliorate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T06:02:40.963" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T06:25:53.007" Title="Is it possible to lose Forbidden Island on the first turn?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2012-08-04T17:08:24.660" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting off with Fools' Landing being flooded is certainly a set-back, but all is not lost! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, due to its crucial nature, if Fools' Landing does become flooded, shoring it up becomes a top priority. Your first option is to immediately move adjacent to Fools' Landing, if you can, and use an action to shore up. Failing that, any player can play a 'Sandbags' card to shore it up as a free action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, sadly, you can't move that far and no-one has any sandbags in their starting hand (as can happen easily in a two player game) - Fools' Landing is left somewhat vulnerable to a Waters Rise card, but even then it's not guaranteed that Fools' Landing is re-drawn and sunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, it's pretty rare that you start too far away and have no sandbags and Waters Rise and Fools Landing is drawn - but if it does happen, take solace that your end was a quick one, and hope for better fortune next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:32:36.047" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:32:36.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8024" CreationDate="2012-08-05T03:33:23.977" Score="8" ViewCount="6272" Body="&lt;p&gt;My cousin and I play MtG together sometimes. He has many years of experience, and I just started playing recently and we have had an argument when I tried to destroy his nonbasic dual lands such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Chancery&quot;&gt;Azorius Chancery&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Garrison&quot;&gt;Boros Garrison&lt;/a&gt;, with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Poison%20the%20Well&quot;&gt;Poison the Well&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrecking%20Ball&quot;&gt;Wrecking Ball&lt;/a&gt;, that have the card text &amp;quot;Destroy target land,&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Destroy target creature or land.&amp;quot; He says that dual lands with the type/subtype &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; and card text like...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Azorius Chancery enters the battlefield tapped.&#xA;When Azorius Chancery enters the battlefield, return a land you control to its owner's hand.&#xA;Tap: Add {W}{U} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are nonbasic lands and can't be destroyed by cards with the text &amp;quot;destroy target land&amp;quot;. So contrary to the card type/subtype being &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; he says I can't destroy it. Is he right or wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, if I can destroy, for example, a mountain with a type/subtype &amp;quot;Basic Land&amp;quot; using an instant/sorcery that has the text &amp;quot;destroy target land&amp;quot; (which he allowed me to do) then why can't I destroy a nonbasic land that has the type/subtype &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate if you show some hard evidence or state your MtG experience, such as been to tournaments and have seen that it is or isn't legal to make your answers more credible when I show my cousin the responses if I'm right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3136" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T21:28:35.910" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T21:28:35.910" Title="Can nonbasic dual lands such as &quot;Azorius Chancery&quot; be destroyed by the card text &quot;destroy target land&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2012-08-05T05:09:32.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to alleviate the issue is to have the Pilot always take the first turn. Since they start on Fools' Landing, they can prevent the instant loss by shoring it up. In a 4-player game, you have reduced the chances by an additional 1/5 (in a 2-player game by 4/10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:34:00.557" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:34:00.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-08-05T05:18:51.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Land” without any other modifiers means “a permanent on the battlefield with the Land type”. Therefore a spell or effect that says “Destroy target land” will in fact destroy whatever land it targets, regardless of whether that land is basic or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; effects in the game that only affect basic lands, or only affect nonbasic lands, but in those cases the extra restriction is stated explicitly. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4756&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Tap an untapped creature you control: Untap target basic land.&quot;&gt;Earthcraft&lt;/a&gt; can't be used to untap a non-basic land, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4944&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{T}, Sacrifice Wasteland: Destroy target nonbasic land.&quot;&gt;Wasteland&lt;/a&gt; can't be used to destroy a basic land. However, effects that just say “land” don't care whether the land is basic or nonbasic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T05:24:13.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-08-05T05:23:12.153" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, you can destroy any permanent with the type &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; using a card that says &amp;quot;Destroy target land.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate authority in these matters is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; (CR). They are updated regularly, and are free to download.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest rule from the CR that clarifies that nonbasic lands are lands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.8. Any land with the supertype “basic” is a basic land. &lt;strong&gt;Any land that doesn’t&lt;/strong&gt; have this supertype &lt;strong&gt;is a nonbasic land&lt;/strong&gt;, even if it has a basic land type&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all lands that don't have the &lt;strong&gt;Basic&lt;/strong&gt; supertype are &lt;strong&gt;lands&lt;/strong&gt; that are nonbasic, even if they have a basic land type. There are several lands with a basic land type that aren't basic lands, like the original &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Dual_lands&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dual land cycle&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Badlands&quot;&gt;Badlands&lt;/a&gt; et. al., Pain Lands &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sulfurous%20Springs&quot;&gt;Sulfurous Springs&lt;/a&gt;, etc.), while there are only 5 basic land cards. The basic lands have card names &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plains&quot;&gt;Plains&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the rule below shows that a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Garrison&quot;&gt;Boros Garrison&lt;/a&gt; is a legal target for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Poison%20the%20Well&quot;&gt;Poison the Well&lt;/a&gt;, because it is referencing an object with &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; in the card's Type Line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card were specifically referencing only nonbasic lands, the rules text would have specifically said so. (&lt;strong&gt;Examples:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruination&quot;&gt;Ruination&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Moon&quot;&gt;Blood Moon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dust%20Bowl&quot;&gt;Dust Bowl&lt;/a&gt;). Similarly, if a card is referring only to basic lands or lands with a basic land type, it would say so. (&lt;strong&gt;Examples:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fiery%20Fall&quot;&gt;Fiery Fall&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Global%20Ruin&quot;&gt;Global Ruin&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Null%20Chamber&quot;&gt;Null Chamber&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flashfires&quot;&gt;Flashfires&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T21:31:40.167" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T21:31:40.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8026" CreationDate="2012-08-05T14:46:23.590" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the player says they're opening a chest, and the overlord plays a trap card, does the trap effect take place before or after the chest is opened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is particularly important in the case of death or being monkeyed, as neither monkeys nor dead people can open chests (and hence collect the loot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="124" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T16:24:18.803" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T18:18:16.927" Title="Do chest traps happen before loot is distributed?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8025" CreationDate="2012-08-05T18:18:16.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trap effect resolves before the contents of the chest are distributed. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent/faq/descentfaq%200309v1.3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: When a chest contains curses, can the overlord use the threat generated by the curses to play a trap on that chest? &lt;strong&gt;Does the trap go off before or after the rest of the chest &#xA;  contents are distributed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Curses are always the first thing distributed from a chest, and threat from curses may be used to play a trap card in response to opening the chest. &lt;strong&gt;The rest of the chest &#xA;  contents are only distributed after the trap card (if any) resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; In the case of a Mimic or similar card, this could be several turns later!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T18:18:16.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8028" CreationDate="2012-08-05T18:45:36.277" Score="10" ViewCount="1585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=16440&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flash&lt;/a&gt; to bring &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elesh%20Norn%2C%20Grand%20Cenobite&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn, Grand Cenobite&lt;/a&gt; into play, then choose to sacrifice her rather than pay her mana cost. Will my opponent's creatures with two or less toughness die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:29:38.463" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:29:38.463" Title="Will Elesh Norn kill creatures if I don't pay the extra cost for Flash?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8027" CreationDate="2012-08-05T19:02:58.120" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Elesh Norn's static abilities have no effect on the battlefield in that case.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bringing Elesh Norn into play with Flash and deciding whether or not to sacrifice it is all part of Flash's resolution. Killing creatures with her -2/-2 would require state-based effects to be checked, but that only happens after Flash has finished resolving, at which point Eles Norn is already gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sacrifice a creature brought into play with the spell Flash, basically all you get are &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; and &quot;leaves the battlefield&quot; effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-08-05T20:02:32.010" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T20:02:32.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8027" CreationDate="2012-08-05T22:09:15.703" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, since no player receives priority between &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elesh%20Norn&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn&lt;/a&gt; entering and leaving the battlefield during the resolution of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flash&quot;&gt;Flash&lt;/a&gt;. State-based actions that would place creatures with 0 toughness in their owners graveyards, are not checked until just before a player would receive priority. Rule 704.4 gives a nice example of a creature that has 0 toughness temporarily, that isn't sent to the graveyard, because its toughness is greater than 0 the next time it would be checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.5. Each time a player would get priority, the game first performs all applicable state-based actions as a single event (see rule 704, “State-Based Actions”), ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.4. Unlike triggered abilities, state-based actions pay no attention to what happens during the resolution of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A player controls a creature with the ability “This creature’s power and&#xA;toughness are each equal to the number of cards in your hand” and casts a spell whose&#xA;effect is “Discard your hand, then draw seven cards.” &lt;strong&gt;The creature will temporarily have&#xA;toughness 0 in the middle of the spell’s resolution but will be back up to toughness 7 when&#xA;the spell finishes resolving. Thus the creature will survive when state-based actions are&#xA;checked.&lt;/strong&gt; In contrast, an ability that triggers when the player has no cards in hand goes on&#xA;the stack after the spell resolves, because its trigger event happened during resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T22:09:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8021" CreationDate="2012-08-05T22:51:34.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Continuing my effort to answer MtG questions using just the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_Magic_Basic_Rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Chancery&quot;&gt;Azorius Chancery&lt;/a&gt; is a Land, because it has &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; in its &lt;strong&gt;Type Line&lt;/strong&gt;. This is the area between the card art, and the rules text. (See page 4, Parts of a Card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card type&lt;/strong&gt; - Every card has at least one card type: artifact, creature, enchantment, instant, land, planeswalker, or sorcery. A card’s type is printed under its illustration. Some cards, like artifact creatures, have more than one type. Some cards also have subtypes, such as “Goblin” and “Warrior” in “Creature — Goblin Warrior,” or supertypes, such as “basic” in “Basic Land — Forest.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nonbasic land&lt;/strong&gt; - Any land that doesn’t have the supertype “basic” on its type line—in other words, any land not named &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plains&quot;&gt;Plains&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt;. You can’t put more than four copies of any one nonbasic land card into a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrecking%20Ball&quot;&gt;Wrecking Ball&lt;/a&gt; can target Azorius Chancery, because it is a permanent with the proper characteristic &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; in the Type Line, and it is a permanent on the battlefield. (See &lt;strong&gt;Target&lt;/strong&gt; page 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Target&lt;/strong&gt; - When you see the word “target” on a spell or ability, you have to choose one or more things for the spell or ability to affect. You’ll be able to choose only certain kinds of things, such as “target red permanent” or “target creature or player.” ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-05T22:51:34.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8033" CreationDate="2012-08-06T04:18:36.933" Score="9" ViewCount="3598" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Quarriors a few times and I love Dominion.  The one game of Quarriors that I won, I just happened to roll my monsters attack side up many times in a row, I didn't make any coherent plans nor perform any tactical countering of my opponents.  This has me worried about the lack of depth in Quarriors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much depth is there to Quarriors?  Do good players analyze a board and come up with good, kingdom-specific combos?  How often do you pass up buys for the most expensive cards for something that better fits in your deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T13:10:22.107" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T00:52:26.347" Title="How much strategic depth is there in Quarriors?" Tags="|quarriors|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2012-08-06T05:23:27.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not much.&lt;/strong&gt; The game is won or lost on creatures. The problem is, those creature dice usually only have a 50%-67 chance of coming up as a creature. It is quite possible to have the better dice bag, and just lose because of poor dice rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With only one buy, the best purchase is usually obvious. Since most spells don't gain you glory and creatures that score also allow you to cull your weak starting dice, you are usually best off buying the most costly creature you can get. The most costly creature usually scores the most Glory, and usually has higher defense and attack power. Many times, whomever gets an early 8 Quiddy starting roll and can buy the Dragon or other 3-4 Glory creature first will usually win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is usually pretty short. This is especially true of the 4 player game, where the game ends on 12 glory. This doesn't give the dice bags much time to develop a strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Advanced and Expert rules on page 10 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/quarma/QuarmageddonRulebook.pdf&quot;&gt;newest rule book&lt;/a&gt; do add some important strategic changes. With the Advanced rule, you can buy two dice per turn, that makes you have to decide on multiple smaller quicker scores (less risk of not rolling a creature), or bigger creatures that are more likely to survive. The Expert rules require you to cull the creature that scores. This rule makes the game take longer, and gives dice bag strategies more time to develop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T14:00:16.947" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T14:00:16.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2012-08-06T13:20:10.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quariors is very luck driven.  Some people like to describe it as &quot;luck squared&quot; because you have the draw from the bag, and then the roll of the dice.  In Dominion you are at least guaranteed to see your new cool card sooner or later, in Quariors it could just keep rolling quidity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The designer claims that the luck evens out throughout a game, but i find this very much not true.  Quariors lead snowballs more than any other game i have ever played.  This is a trait partially taken from Dominion, but because you score points and cull with the same action the problem is severely increased. This is also compounded by the fact that other players are playing &quot;defense&quot; against you, so they will keep each other down, as the runaway leader keeps running away and completely blocking the opposition.&#xA;What it finally leads to is a few early rolls deciding the entire game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-08-06T13:20:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8002" CreationDate="2012-08-06T13:42:08.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another 'rule' new players are often given is to 'always cover an honor', i.e. if declarer is leading a queen towards dummy's ace, you are generally better off covering the queen with your king to prevent the finesse. After all, your partner may have the jack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly to the 'play low rule', there are also exceptions to this, e.g. when attacking entries as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8008/1140&quot;&gt;Arybhara's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:36:35.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-06T17:44:25.750" Score="-3" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a game we played a few years ago... a friend taught us but can't remember how to play! I remember we named it &quot;Slummy&quot; because it was a cross between rummy and solitaire (and we didn't know the name). I know there were cards on the table as well as in your hand and it was played with 2 decks. You can play with 2 or 3 people (maybe more.. don't know) I have searched everywhere, and spent hours looking. I also bought a card game book trying to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOPEFULLY someone will know. It's driving me nuts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3140" LastEditorUserId="3228" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T11:54:07.220" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T21:38:04.260" Title="Can't remember the name of this card game" Tags="|identify-this-game|rummy|solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2012-09-24T21:55:18.527" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8038" CreationDate="2012-08-06T22:16:55.517" Score="6" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a board game called Careers for a themed party. It looks a lot of fun, I am just reading the rules but cannot work out something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On exiting a career path you are allowed to take a number of experience cards up to 3, based on the number of times you have been through the career that bit is quite clear. What it doesn't explain is that the same square you return to the main board is usually an opportunity square, which would allow you take a card that would move to another career almost immediately. Is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3141" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-06T23:00:25.397" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T01:33:09.070" Title="Picking up opportunity card on exiting career path" Tags="|careers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8037" CreationDate="2012-08-06T23:34:42.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would, if you actually landed on the &lt;strong&gt;Opportunity Knocks&lt;/strong&gt; square, which only happens 1/6 of the time. When exiting the career path, you continue moving clockwise the full number of spaces that you rolled. Additionally, you need to meet one of the requirements of the new career to enter the career path that the Opportunity card sent you to. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Careers(2003).pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book (2003)&lt;/a&gt;, (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Careers(1990).PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1990 version&lt;/a&gt; has the same rules, but they are not written as clearly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Move Your Pawn&lt;/strong&gt; - Moving After Rolling: If your pawn is on the main path, move it clockwise by the full count of both dice. If it's on a Career Path, move it toward the end of the path &lt;strong&gt;by the full count of one die&lt;/strong&gt;. (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before entering the career path, you must meet one of the requirements Listed on the Entrance space (unless you played the Special Opportunity card, which let's you in for free). For example ... (page 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Completing A Career:&lt;/strong&gt; When you leave a career path, &lt;strong&gt;continue moving clockwise along the Main path&lt;/strong&gt;. ... (page 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T01:33:09.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-07T04:49:57.210" Score="14" ViewCount="8026" Body="&lt;p&gt;Babylon: When you have the second stage of the wonder that allows you to buy your last 2 cards in the age instead of discarding, does this count as 1 turn or as 2 separate turns?  Here's why I ask...  I needed to buy glass from my neighbor.  Each card needed me to buy a glass, and he only had 1 glass.  If the cards count as 1 turn, I could only buy 1, and would have to discard the other card to collect 3 coins.  If the cards were 2 turns, then I would buy the glass twice in 2 separate transactions.  After 15 minutes debate, our group voted that it was 2 turns.  But we would like to know what other people think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3142" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T02:05:00.870" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T02:05:00.870" Title="How does Babylons's second stage wonder work for building/discarding your last two cards?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-04-05T15:51:40.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8039" CreationDate="2012-08-07T05:54:39.217" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The designer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/9714/antoine-bauza&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Antoine Bauza&lt;/a&gt;, has responded to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5739388#5739388&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;question on BGG&lt;/a&gt;, it is as if the Babylon player had two turns. You get to produce resources twice, buy twice from your neighbor, and even receive production from your newly built/discarded 6th card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: &lt;strong&gt;When playing both cards in round 6 to build two buildings: Can you use one resource twice for each of the buildings?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes, it's two different cards, like two different turns... The first could help you to play the second (discard the 6th for money and use the money to play the 7th for example...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also be somewhat surmised from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_WHITE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, since you need to have that stage of the wonder built to &amp;quot;use it.&amp;quot; (page 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification: - during the sixth turn, the player can therefore play both cards they have in hand. If the second stage of the Wonder is not built, the Babylon player &lt;strong&gt;can then build it on their sixth turn and then play the seventh card instead of discarding it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T04:34:58.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8045" CreationDate="2012-07-30T13:04:28.353" Score="6" ViewCount="20799" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst playing carrom, if only one piece is remaining of each player, e.g. one white and one black and a queen, and I pot a queen, what happens in the following scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While covering the queen with my piece, mistakenly I cover both the remaining pieces, and now there are no pieces on board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In such a case, who wins the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18502" OwnerDisplayName="Sachin" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T17:44:10.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T12:15:51.873" Title="What if the queen is pocketed along with all remaining carrommen?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-05-21T16:04:10.173" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8568" CreationDate="2012-08-07T08:19:45.340" Score="1" ViewCount="1877" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the mechanics and playing styles that best suit each of the factions? What combinations of factions can offset each other's weaknesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only have the seven factions in the core set, but feel free to comment on all eight. Also, feel free to limit the tips to things that are good for a beginner playing casual games only. You can assume I'm familiar with all the (core-set) rules, just not any strategies or particularly strong cards and card combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T19:07:42.743" Title="What are the strengths and weaknesses of the factions in the Call of Cthulhu LCG?" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8044" CreationDate="2012-08-07T09:04:32.847" Score="5" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dutch version of the Catan card-game so bear with me a little regarding translation to English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question refers to the event card that allows both players to search through a pile and put back one card from their hand. This event card is called &quot;Bouwmeester&quot; in Dutch, roughly translates to &quot;Build Master&quot; in English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dutch text on this card is unclear about whether, when you choose to take a card from a pile, you need to put back your card under the &lt;strong&gt;same&lt;/strong&gt; pile or may put it back under &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the formal ruling of this event card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T09:34:12.253" Title="Does the event card &quot;Build Master&quot; force you to put the card back under the same pile as you choose to search in?" Tags="|catan-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8043" CreationDate="2012-08-07T09:34:12.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the &lt;strong&gt;same&lt;/strong&gt; pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SOCCG_Base_Rules_0422406_loRez.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (p22):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Examine your chosen stack. You may choose any one card from that stack. You may also choose not to exchange any cards. Place your discarded card at the bottom of the stack and return it to the table face-down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T09:34:12.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8041" CreationDate="2012-08-07T10:43:27.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You win and are awarded 3 points (or 1 point if the score is 22+)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be verified on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;International Carrom Federation rule book&lt;/a&gt;, as long as you made a proper stroke. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;102&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) While covering the Queen a player pockets the last C/m of his own together with the last C/m of his opponent by a proper stroke, he shall be awarded 3 points. If the score is 22 or more he shall win by 1 point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) While covering the Queen, if a player pockets the last C/m of his own together with the last C/m of his opponent by an improper stroke the opponent shall win by three points. If the score is 22 or more he shall win by one point. if demanded, an additional point for the improper stroke shall be awarded to the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course assuming that you didn't pocket the Striker as well. In that case you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;109&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) If a player pockets the Queen, his last C/m, the last C/m of his opponent by a proper stroke together with the Striker, the player shall lose the Board by 3 points. If the score of the opponent is 22 or more, he shall lose by one point. One additional point for the pocketed striker shall be awarded, if demanded by the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) &lt;em&gt;...improper stroke...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T09:34:13.940" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T09:34:13.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:00:05.103" Score="5" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;My life is down to 1 and my opponent 4. I attack with a 4/4 lifelink creature, and my opponent answered with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; to deal two damage to me, will I lose or will lifelink save me first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3143" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T16:00:57.013" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T07:19:11.970" Title="Lifelink and fatal damage question" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:34:23.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like shock was used before blockers were declared and therefore before combat damage was dealt. In this case, the shock will resolve and reduce your life to -1 before your creature can attack. You lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T15:34:23.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:34:45.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You and your opponent both have the opportunity to cast spells and activate abilities during both the declare attackers and declare blockers steps, both of which happen before the combat damage step. So you've taken the two damage well before your creature would deal its damage and let you gain life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is a slightly unusual situation anyway - your opponent could've probably just killed you with Shock earlier in the turn, or even during their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T02:47:23.557" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T02:47:23.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8051" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:36:07.220" Score="19" ViewCount="16328" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the rules of Monopoly state that you can't buy a house if there are no houses left for sale. You can't even pay all at once and buy a Hotel if there aren't enough houses to place 4 on the property first. But, what happens if you have a hotel in a property, all the houses are gone, and you want to (or are forced to) sell your hotel? I'm guessing that you are forced to go ahead and sell the hotel and all 4 houses at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T15:56:50.683" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T15:58:27.037" Title="Housing shortage in Monopoly" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-06T19:36:25.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8046" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:39:58.053" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will die first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attack phase is actually a series of steps, of which declaring the attacking creatures is only the second. After you have determined your attacking creatures, there are several opportunities for each player to play instant-speed spells (such as Shock) and abilities before the attacking creatures can deal their combat damage. So, unless you agreed to resolve combat first, if your opponent can reduce you to zero health or less, you will lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, these are the steps of the combat phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the first main phase, when the stack is empty and all players have passed, combat starts. Every player can play spells and abilities now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You declare with which creatures you want to attack, if any. You tap them, they now count as attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every player can play spells and abilities until the stack is empty and everyone passes. &lt;strong&gt;(This is where your opponent played Shock, which killed you right there)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The defending player declares with which creatures to block, if any. They now count as blocking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every player can play spells and abilities until the stack is empty and everyone passes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat resolution starts. First, all creatures with First Strike and/or Double Strike now deal their damage, simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every player can play spells and abilities until the stack is empty and everyone passes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All creatures with Double Strike and all creatures who didn't deal damage in the first damage step deal damage now &lt;strong&gt;(this is where you would have killed your opponent with the 4/4 and gained 4 life)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every player can play spells and abilities until the stack is empty and everyone passes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T07:19:11.970" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T07:19:11.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8049" CreationDate="2012-08-07T15:50:47.883" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can only downgrade a hotel to a number of houses &lt;a href=&quot;http://hasbro.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/987/~/no-available-houses&quot;&gt;if that number of houses is actually available in the bank&lt;/a&gt;. If there are no houses, you must sell the entire hotel outright. This fact &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Monopoly/Strategy&quot;&gt;can be used strategically&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a shortage of houses, players should consider buying the last houses rather than buying hotels because each hotel built returns four houses to the bank for other players to use. When there are no houses in the bank, no one else can build houses. Also, players with hotels can't easily convert them to cash in this situation; they would have to strip an entire colour group of its hotels to raise money since buildings must be removed evenly from a colour group and because the hotels cannot be exchanged for houses since there are no houses in the bank. The owners of inexpensive monopolies should be particularly eager to use this tactic to prevent the owners of expensive monopolies from fully developing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-07T15:58:27.037" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T15:58:27.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7145" CreationDate="2012-08-07T23:18:27.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jdip.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jDip&lt;/a&gt; is an exact fit for that. It is a free java program so can run on any platform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3145" LastActivityDate="2012-08-07T23:18:27.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4562" CreationDate="2012-08-08T02:25:17.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In rubber bridge, you should try to get a partscore on. After getting the partscore on, slam bidding is much easier. The only time you want to sacrafise is if you have am extremely good fit against a slam, or if the opponents are taking a vulnerable rubber. Your goal is to make your contract. In IMPS, it is very similiar, trying to make your contract, but you have the game bonus and try to bid a game more often. Slam bidding isn't as easy. Sacrifices can be made if both are nonvulnerable. Your goal is to bid the safest contract and try to make it. In matchpoints, your goal is to try to take as many tricks as you can. You should avoid five of a minor games,and try for 3NT instead. 4 of a major should be bid if either of you are not 4-3-3-3. Bid level bonuses if there is at least 50 percent chance of making-be conservative at level bonuses. Stretch to compete, sacrifice often, and don't always try to make your contract. If making the contract is less than 50 percent, and if it fails means going down am extra trick, then settle for the lowest number of undertricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3146" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T02:25:17.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8059" CreationDate="2012-08-08T07:42:04.203" Score="5" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased several extensions for Catan card-game and noticed that the manual says to put the cards of the extensions into separate stacks at the beginning of the game. Before reading the manual I expected that the extension cards would just be shuffled into the regular stacks, and therefore I was surprised to read about the separate stacks. Unfortunately the manual is not very clear on why those cards need to be in separate stacks. What is the reason for this? And what is the disadvantage of shuffling them into the regular stacks anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More info:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I'm referring to this game (notice the table setup next to the box): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.999games.nl/spel/De+Kolonisten+van+Catan%3a+Het+Kaartspel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kolonisten van Catan Kaartspel&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br/&gt; At the end of the page you can see that there are 5 extensions for this game.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;My question refers to the manual of the extensions saying that instead of making 5 equal stacks of cards, now there should be made 4 equal stacks of the base game cards, and 2 stacks of the cards of the extensions. So that makes a total of 6 stacks of which 2 contain ONLY extension cards. In my opinion this is a strange rule as it allows a player to search either the base set or the extension sets. I would argue that mixing all cards together and make 5 equal stacks makes a nicer game. Now why is the rule not like this? Is there any disadvantage of making 5 mixed stacks anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="3107" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T12:14:30.463" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T14:47:29.777" Title="Why are the extension cards in separate stacks?" Tags="|catan-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8058" CreationDate="2012-08-08T14:05:42.980" Score="8" ViewCount="3413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small question regarding the &quot;Spirit special power&quot; (quote from the rules: You may thus end up with two different races in decline on map at the same time and score for them both.)&#xA;If I have a race in decline and I want to put my second race in decline ex. &quot;Trolls with spirit&quot;, will I keep my old race in decline with my new race in decline (because of my spirit special power) or will that rule only take effect for the next race put in decline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3150" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T14:48:36.610" LastActivityDate="2023-02-26T13:30:25.827" Title="In Small World, how does the Spirits' ability apply to already declined races?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8057" CreationDate="2012-08-08T14:42:36.790" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) say (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the Race tokens associated with your&#xA;  Spirit Special Power go into Decline, &lt;strong&gt;they&#xA;  never count toward the limit&lt;/strong&gt; stated in&#xA;  Entering In Decline (p. 6) regarding having a&#xA;  single In Decline race on the map at any&#xA;  given time. You may thus end up with two different races In&#xA;  Decline on the map at the same time and score for them both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when your active Spirits go into decline, they do not push out an existing declined race. If in the future you decline &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; race, the old race will &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; be removed, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T14:42:36.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8055" CreationDate="2012-08-08T14:47:29.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've deleted my previous answer as it was based on too many wrong assumptions on my part!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing with the Catan Card Game Expansion set, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; choose to just mix all the expansion cards together into five stacks as normal.  I don't think this would break anything, as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it strikes me that the new Themes introduced in the Expansion set would be quite significantly diluted by just being mixed in with everything else.  Depending on the outcome of the shuffle, your game might not end up being very highly &quot;themed&quot; at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By giving the new cards their own dedicated stacks, you give players the option to have a game that is quite heavily based on the theme. (They can, at their discretion, just keep drawing cards from that stack, after all.)  This could be particularly relevant if cards within a theme work better with each other, instead of in isolation: and I'd be amazed if this was not the case - most boardgame expansion kits I can think of are designed to have new internal synergies, rather than &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; complementing the mechanics of the basic set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T14:47:29.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8063" CreationDate="2012-08-08T16:58:51.803" Score="8" ViewCount="105769" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing the cards, Ace is worth 1.  When counting runs, A 2 3 is worth 3.  I've often played with Q K A also being worth 3.  I've even played with K A 2 being worth 3!  Definitely good ways to get more points in the game (you know, if you need that kind of thing), but it seems (from looking through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section7&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;) that Ace should always be low and never anything else.  This is, however, merely &lt;em&gt;insinuated&lt;/em&gt; by &quot;Ace is 1&quot; and the examples of A 2 3 and J Q K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the question: Is there any definitive discourse on Ace always being low and why that is?  Perhaps &quot;Ace is high&quot; is a common variant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-08-08T18:58:20.230" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T12:30:01.387" Title="Is Ace high? Or low? Or both?" Tags="|house-rules|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8064" CreationDate="2012-08-08T17:06:06.980" Score="8" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long while back I was playing crib with a friend, and his crib board (I might be imagining things here, but I'm fairly certain) was shaded in the 118, 119, and 120 point area.  This three-point zone before the &quot;I won!&quot; hole was a special area within which you were no longer allowed to peg a &quot;go&quot; point.  You could peg a go into the zone, but once you were there you needed to get your winning points from some (any!) other source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't see mention of this 'no-go zone' in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section7&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, so is this just a common variant? Or did I managed to get my leg pulled by someone who had penciled a shaded area onto their board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2018-08-18T18:56:27.587" Title="Close to winning means no go for you?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8060" CreationDate="2012-08-08T17:08:06.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best reason I can see for making Ace low and only low is that if you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; then you create the possibility of a hand like this: Q K A 2 3 being worth 6 because it's two runs of 3 and not a single run of 5 like all other runs without doubles.  Consistency!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T17:08:06.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8060" CreationDate="2012-08-08T18:57:36.003" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aces are low in cribbage. Their point value is one in pegging and in adding up to 15 during pegging, in the hand, or in the crib. The American Cribbage Congress' &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section3&quot;&gt;Rules of Cribbage&lt;/a&gt; define a straight as &quot;a sequence of three or more consecutive cards&quot;, and the card order is shown with King as the highest descending normally through Ace as the lowest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of Ace being played high in cribbage, so from my personal experience I don't think it's a common variant, but you could definitely play it that way as an uncommon variant! I don't think it would change the game a great deal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as reasons for Ace being only low, I would use the consistency argument as in your answer. There's no inherent inconsistency in scoring if you think of the order of cards being circular rather than linear, but it does introduce a discontinuity in value.  To be consistent, you could play with Aces as in blackjack, taking either 1 or 11, but that would probably make them overpowered, especially in the pegging. And that would introduce more complications, such as would a A 10 4 be counted as one 15 or two? All-in-all, it's more straightforward to stick with the traditional: Ace's value is 1, and it is low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T18:57:36.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8061" CreationDate="2012-08-08T21:14:27.810" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: There is no such rule in cribbage and your friend owes you a drink (and 120 pts in your next game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even among variants of the game, I've never heard of this rule.  The closest I could come is a variation where in order to win you must peg out exactly.  But even then, Go's are allowed (and encouraged as it's amazingly difficult to get a 1 otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry you got hoodwinked, but kudos to your friend for his attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2012-08-08T21:14:27.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8000" CreationDate="2012-08-09T01:44:13.103" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should play as if you don't have an alien power, since Masochist's power is diametrically opposed to setting up 5 foreign colonies and it is extremely difficult to send all your ships to the warp.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will assume that you are playing with the latest edition of Cosmic Encounter by Fantasy Flight Games, because the Masochist is only available in this version. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Cosmic%20Encounter/cosmic-encounter-rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, there are 72 total Cosmic Cards (82 with Flares). If you are playing a 5 player game, then there is just a 38% chance that one of the other 4 players does not have Mobius Tubes in their opening hand. You only have a 18% chance of having drawn a &lt;strong&gt;Card Zap&lt;/strong&gt; to prevent Mobius Tubes in your opening hand. Even without a Mobius Tubes being drawn, you have several things working against you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Regroup&lt;/strong&gt; step isn't optional, so every turn you &lt;strong&gt;must return 1 ship&lt;/strong&gt; to your colonies, which means that it would take a minimum of losing 7 Offensive Encounters (I will get to Defensive Encounters in a moment) instead of winning 5 Encounters. In general, your opponents should see you attempting this strategy long before you can actually win with it. They will avoid allowing you to lose ships quicker by preventing you from allying with them (so you cannot lose more than 4 ships a turn). Additionally, when you win your first offensive encounter, you are allowed to take another turn. You do not have the same luxury when losing encounters, so even the 7-5 ratio is a little bit misleading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have lost a planet in your color home system, all other colors can choose to attack your 0 defense planet in your home system. This means that it is even harder to lose ships on the defense, since any player that hasn't established a foreign colony on your home system can just attack your defenseless planet (the other ships are just bystanders), and not make you lose any more ships. When they do have to attack your home system with ships on it, they can always aim the Hyperspace Gate at the planet with the fewest ships on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for when to hurt yourself, you might consider all the possible Flares, Cosmic Cards, and situations that would benefit/hinder your progress at losing all your ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beneficial&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amoeba Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Its ability to allow you to lose up to 8 ships in a turn is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Masochist Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Once you have your flare, you put a clock on your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clone Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: returning Plague would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kamikaze Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Free sacrifice&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loser Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Auto losses each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Machine&lt;/strong&gt;: Two turns, although admittedly, this would be just as good if not better trying to get 5 foreign colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Filch (Classic) Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: cheat legally, returning whatever card you want from the discard/retrieve from the deck/etc. once per turn, or &quot;lose a ship.&quot; I think I like those choices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Negotiate Cards&lt;/strong&gt;: These will ensure a loss, or at a minimum a loss of 3 ships if you cannot &quot;come to a deal.&quot; Good thing these cards make up 15 of the 82 cards&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warrior Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Useful for extra attacks to lose ships after defense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harmful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cosmicencounter.wikia.com/wiki/Healer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Healer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;: Healer so definitively makes Masochist a non-power, since it can heal ships removed from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mobius Tubes&lt;/strong&gt;: A complete setback.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reincarnator and/or Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Can make you switch powers, whenever you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sorcerer Flare&lt;/strong&gt;: Negate your power&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only be certain of half of the Flares are in the deck, based upon the Aliens your opponents are playing as. The remaining 5 Flares are random. All in all, it is much more likely that your opponents will draw a Mobius Tubes, and you won't have a Card Zap to counter, than you will have a good selection of beneficial flares in the deck that you actually draw. &lt;strong&gt;Masochist&lt;/strong&gt; is one of the weaker powers, and since you are allowed to choose between two different aliens at the start of the game, it might be best to consider which alien race is worse than &lt;strong&gt;Masochist&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T01:44:13.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8066" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8141" CreationDate="2012-08-09T02:07:35.547" Score="11" ViewCount="1393" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I like probability questions, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8018/we-lost-on-the-first-turn&quot;&gt;and &lt;strong&gt;tttpp&lt;/strong&gt; brought it up&lt;/a&gt;, I figured it might be interesting to calculate how likely you are to lose on the first turn in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamewright.com/gamewright/pdfs/Rules/ForbiddenIslandTM-RULES.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/a&gt;, because Fool's Landing sinks into the abyss. This question is only interested in figuring the odds of losing the game during the first players turn. It would be slightly more difficult to figure the odds of losing during the first round, where each player has taken one turn at most. If this question gets enough attention, I might decide to ask that question and figure out the odds. To figure out the odds of losing, you will need to calculate the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds that the first player cannot shore up Fool's Landing? (depends upon the first player's character, their starting location, and Fool's Landing location)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds that no player has received a Sandbag/Helicopter (depends upon number of players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds that a Waters Rise card is drawn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds that Fool's Landing is redrawn after Waters Rise? (difficultly level effects this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the odds range of losing on the first turn for a 2-4 Player game? Calculate each individual component separately, and then provide a range of maximum/minimum odds of losing on the first turn based upon the individual components above. Assume the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The all players will attempt to shore up Fool's Landing. (use Sandbags/Helicopter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The default island map is used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first player and their character are randomly determined, per the rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignore the odds of losing because a player sinks into the abyss. (&lt;strong&gt;optional:&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignore the odds of losing because both tiles for a particular treasure sink into the abyss. (&lt;strong&gt;optional&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Calculate this if you want, but I am not uninterested in the minimal effect on the result of losing first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T07:36:21.400" Title="How likely are you to lose because Fool's Landing sinks into the abyss?" Tags="|statistics|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-09T02:22:59.387" Score="12" ViewCount="2122" Body="&lt;p&gt;In games that allow you to 'backstab' other players (such as Diplomacy and Cosmic Encounter), it is often very important to make other players think you are going to do one thing while really planning on doing another. When I play games like this, I have trouble making other players believe me, and sometimes lose because of this fact alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I get better at lying convincingly at key points in the game to improve my odds of victory?&lt;/strong&gt; Are there any vocal, behavioral, or facial tells that I should try to minimize? What words should I say and what should I be thinking when I try to lie? How can I apply this knowledge to figure out when other players are lying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T12:29:23.280" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T17:45:12.320" Title="How can I get better at lying?" Tags="|diplomacy|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8069" CreationDate="2012-08-09T02:47:01.300" Score="6" ViewCount="1951" Body="&lt;p&gt;People love to figure out first turn kills in Magic: the Gathering, and have been around since the beginning, when someone threw together a deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Channel&quot;&gt;Channel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Black%20Lotus&quot;&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fireball&quot;&gt;Fireball&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;. Pulling off a first turn kill in multiplayer is much harder, because you need to do much more damage to your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have 4 opponents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrlegacy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legacy Banned List&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get to determine every card you draw (including starting hand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponents take no actions. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showpost.php?p=2823307&amp;amp;postcount=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;goldfish&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the maximum amount of total life loss that is possible? Not sure of the best way to rank submissions, perhaps fewest cards used, least mana used, most life loss, or least expensive cards. Perhaps an average of those values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T08:53:17.863" LastActivityDate="2024-01-07T08:59:11.637" Title="What first turn kill in multiplayer FFA provides the best ratios?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|puzzles|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2012-08-09T02:48:39.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;False Cure deck&lt;/strong&gt; - I used to have a Vintage version of this deck, using proxies for all the expensive cards in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overgrown%20Tomb&quot;&gt;Overgrown Tomb&lt;/a&gt; ($14)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast 1x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast 1x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Cure&quot;&gt;False Cure&lt;/a&gt; ($1.50)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast 4x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skyshroud%20Cutter&quot;&gt;Skyshroud Cutter&lt;/a&gt; ($0.10) for alternate casting cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First Skyshoud Cutter causes opponents gain 5 life (25 life), False Cures and opponents lose 10 life. Remaining 3 Skyshroud Cutter's do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Cards (AVG 22.9 life/card). Cheating a little since we are giving opponents life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 Mana (AVG 55.3 life/mana), or using CMC instead 8.42&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 * 4 life = 160 total&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$14 + $1 + $1.50 + 4x$0.10 (approximate $16.90 total, AVG 9.47 life/$) (Prices by &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.tcgplayer.com/magic/revised-edition/bayou&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TCGPlayer.com&lt;/a&gt;, 5th lowest Near Mint price)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T17:21:56.830" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T17:21:56.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7154" CreationDate="2012-08-09T03:19:28.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on testing, here are the strategies that worked for me, specific to the Gifts reanimator deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Attack their mana base&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IRS8i.jpg&quot; height=&quot;248&quot; alt=&quot;Ghost Quarter&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NNdbj.jpg&quot; height=&quot;248&quot; alt=&quot;Surgical Extraction&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fS4qh.jpg&quot; height=&quot;248&quot; alt=&quot;Crucible of Worlds&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/7155/&quot;&gt;As Rahzark mentioned&lt;/a&gt;, the green Tron deck's greatest weakness is the UrzaTron combo itself. &lt;strong&gt;Forcing Tron to play with lands that tap for 1 mana each turns it into a deck that can barely ever cast anything relevant.&lt;/strong&gt; With the massive quantity of land-tutors in the deck, however, just destroying one land is unlikely to keep them off of UrzaTron for more than one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Tron can cast cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWurmcoil%20Engine%5d&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt; using just three lands, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGhost%20Quarter%5d&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt; is better land destruction than &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTectonic%20Edge%5d&quot;&gt;Tectonic Edge&lt;/a&gt;. Playing some of both makes it much easier to construct powerful Gifts piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The best way to buy a lot of time against the deck is to follow up land destruction with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSurgical%20Extraction%5d&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExtirpate%5d&quot;&gt;Extirpate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (the latter is much stronger for playing around cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRelic%20of%20Progenitus%5d&quot;&gt;Relic of Progenitus&lt;/a&gt;), which will prevent your opponent from simply reassembling the Tron combo next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCrucible%20of%20Worlds%5d&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt; allows you to use Ghost Quarter or Tectonic Edge as repeatable land destruction. Your Ghost Quarters will essentially become Strip Mines once you run your opponent out of basics; Tectonic Edge does have one advantage, though: because your opponent isn't shuffling every turn, a tournament match is less likely to go to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Answer their threats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oFvwe.jpg&quot; height=&quot;248&quot; alt=&quot;Path to Exile&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y6ApY.jpg&quot; height=&quot;248&quot; alt=&quot;Negate&quot;/&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bh02B.jpg&quot; height=&quot;248&quot; alt=&quot;Pithing Needle&quot;/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Tron deck doesn't actually have that many threats to throw at you: six to ten in the whole deck, probably. &lt;strong&gt;You can win on resource attrition if you can answer an opponent's threats &lt;em&gt;in a way that makes it difficult to recur them&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; The Tron player has a lot of ways to dig for a threat, though, so you don't have much breathing room if you run out of answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, Tron decks can easily recycle Eldrazi that are sent to the graveyard, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPath%20to%20Exile%5d&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt; will efficiently remove &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog&lt;/a&gt; once and for all; it's also an easy answer to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWurmcoil%20Engine%5d&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt;. Dealing with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul&lt;/a&gt; requires permanent-based removal or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMindbreak%20Trap%5d&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSundering%20Titan%5d&quot;&gt;Sundering Titan&lt;/a&gt; should likewise be dealt with on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMindslaver%5d&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; can be hated out with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; or counterspells (especially &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNegate%5d&quot;&gt;Negate&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big thing here is to sideboard in more appropriate counters, because format staples like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpell%20Peirce%5d&quot;&gt;Spell Peirce&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpell%20Snare%5d&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt; can be used to fight the early tutor cards but tend to come up short against actual threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reanimation target with shroud or hexproof (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInkwell%20Leviathan%5d&quot;&gt;Inkwell Leviathan&lt;/a&gt; can also help answer Karn more easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T03:56:22.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2012-08-09T08:57:08.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't Backstab other players. Don't lie at key points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you never lie, you will be much more convincing when you finally do lie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T08:57:08.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8066" CreationDate="2012-08-09T11:06:29.783" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A friendly warning: This is a looong answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I've calculated the chances of Fools' Landing being lost immediately after the first turn with all players playing to prevent it and a random tile setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few variables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;n = number of players&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;w = water level after rising once&lt;/strong&gt; (2 for Novice, 3 for everything else)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Special abilities/actions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, of all, there are a couple of special abilities and cards that make it impossible to fail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the first character is the Pilot (&lt;strong&gt;1/6&lt;/strong&gt;), they start at FL and can always shore it up, or  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If anyone starts with a Helicopter Lift (there are 3) or a Sandbag (2) in their hand (&lt;strong&gt;1-(20 C (2n))/(25 C (2n))&lt;/strong&gt;), they can shore up or move the first player to shore up (it's OK to ignore WR cards in the initial deal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/6 + 1-(20 C (2n))/(25 C (2n))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e. &lt;strong&gt;(1 - (1/6 + 1-(20 C (2n))/(25 C (2n))))&lt;/strong&gt; chance that the following permutations can end the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Floods, Waters Rise and More Floods&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the characters do on their turns is tricky, so we'll deal with all the card probabilities together first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 areas are flooded to start. To immediately fail, FL must be one of them (&lt;strong&gt;6/24&lt;/strong&gt;)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the first player's turn, regardless of what they did, a fail requires a WR card be drawn from the remaining deck. They draw two cards. The first has a &lt;strong&gt;3/(28-2n)&lt;/strong&gt; chance of being WR. If it's not (&lt;strong&gt;(25-2n)/(28-2n)&lt;/strong&gt;), the second card has a &lt;strong&gt;3/(27-2n)&lt;/strong&gt; chance of being WR. After some balancing, that becomes &lt;strong&gt;(156-12n)/((28-2n)(27-2n))&lt;/strong&gt; chance that a WR card is drawn on the first turn  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is, the (6-card) discard pile is shuffled into the deck and there is a &lt;strong&gt;w/24&lt;/strong&gt; chance that FL comes out again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the odds that the cards are against you and only a perfect first turn can prevent a fail is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6/24 * w/24 * (156-12n)/((28-2n)(27-2n)) = &lt;strong&gt;(w(156-12n))/(96(28-2n)(27-2n))&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The First Turn: Explorer Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where it starts to get &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hairy, so bear with me. If the first player is the Explorer, they can move diagonally, so that makes everything a bit more reachable. There is a &lt;strong&gt;1/5&lt;/strong&gt; chance that the first player is the Explorer (because we've already taken into account that they're not the Pilot). To fail as the Explorer, you have to be more than three spaces away from FL including diagonally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the outside 8 spaces (hereafter, &quot;outside&quot;), there are six you cannot reach. The odds of placing FL in one of the 6 unreachable spaces is 6/23. Therefore, there is a 8/24 * 6/23 = &lt;strong&gt;48/552&lt;/strong&gt; chance you fail for this starting position  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you start in a corner of the inner square (&quot;corner&quot;), there are four spaces you cannot reach as an Explorer (the opposite outsides). That's a 4/24 * 4/23 = &lt;strong&gt;16/552&lt;/strong&gt; chance of failing  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you start in a space that is not in the centre four, &quot;outside&quot; or in a &quot;corner&quot; (which I'll refer to as &quot;inside&quot; for clarity), there are two unreachable spaces. That provides 8/24 * 2/23 = &lt;strong&gt;16/552&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, your first option could be one of the central spaces (the centre four). If it is, congratulations! You can reach any space!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the odds of being the Explorer and being unable to shore FL on your first turn, based on all tiles being placed randomly is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(48+16+16)/552 * 1/5 = &lt;strong&gt;16/552&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The First Turn II: Everyone Else Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if you're not the Explorer?! Let's look at all the potential starting spaces again (groan...) given you're one of the other non-Pilot characters (&lt;strong&gt;4/5&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a &lt;strong&gt;80/552&lt;/strong&gt; chance that FL is unreachable from outside  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a &lt;strong&gt;40/552&lt;/strong&gt; chance that FL is unreachable from a corner  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a &lt;strong&gt;72/552&lt;/strong&gt; chance that FL is unreachable from inside  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a &lt;strong&gt;12/552&lt;/strong&gt; chance that FL is unreachable from the centre.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the odds of being a non-Explorer, non-Pilot and being unable to shore FL on your first turn is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(80+40+72+12)/552 * 4/5 = &lt;strong&gt;816/2760&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the odds of being unable to shore up FL (given that you're not the Pilot) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16/552 + 816/2760 = &lt;strong&gt;896/2760&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phew!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Grand Conclusion, Or TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, we now take all three sections' results and multiply them together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The odds that you're not the Pilot and no one has cards that can help you = &lt;strong&gt;(1 - (1/6 + 1-(20 C (2n))/(25 C (2n))))&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The odds that you all the flooding will go against you, and you'll draw at least one WR = &lt;strong&gt;(w(156-12n))/(96(28-2n)(27-2n))&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The odds that you won't be able to reach and shore up FL under normal circumstances = &lt;strong&gt;896/2760&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that w=3 (which it is for most setups), the odds of failing on the first turn by number of players is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 players&lt;/strong&gt;: approximately &lt;strong&gt;0.0768%&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 players&lt;/strong&gt;: approximately &lt;strong&gt;0.0483%&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 players&lt;/strong&gt;: approximately &lt;strong&gt;0.0288%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T13:31:23.550" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T13:31:23.550" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2012-08-09T13:45:21.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest solution in general if you want to make a 'feature' less likely chosen is to make it more expensive or add (additional) preconditions.&#xA;In this case you can make it more expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you also have to watch out for not unbalancing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3154" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T13:45:21.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7943" CreationDate="2012-08-09T13:58:35.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use 5 cards (assuming you want to perform the action every 5 turns). Every turn the current play picks a card and puts it at the bottom. If that card shows Brazening than perform the related actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to have several blank cards to get to 5 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hard to forget because &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; turn a player has to take the top card so they get part of the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When needing more actions later you can write on one of the blank cards (or Brazening card) a new action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can change the rules easily by adding/removing another card (meaning a different time scheduling for events).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can easily randomize different events if needed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3154" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T16:56:15.730" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T16:56:15.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2012-08-09T14:04:27.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use cardsleeves which are colored at the back. With those sleeves, you don't even have to very nicely cut your cards, just write it on some piece of paper and put them in the sleeves. From the back side you cannot see the difference between cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If needed, you can use different colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what is even better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;- You can even add more notes along with the card (e.g. more clarification; or just a temporary change for playtesting)&#xA;- You can write on it since they are just some paper.&#xA;- You can add cards on the fly without the need of printing them BUT without knowing from the backside it is a 'new' card.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3154" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T14:04:27.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="141" CreationDate="2012-08-09T14:10:01.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use compartment boxes which are mostly used for organizing small hobby materials.&#xA;They come with 5 to 25 compartments and are usually very effective for lots of small pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also boxes where you can remove some spacers or move the spacers to make your own sizes of compartments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allekabels.nl/product_images/aswo_7429292.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;box&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3154" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T14:10:01.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2012-08-09T15:42:10.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read this book: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_to_Win_Friends_and_Influence_People&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to Win Friends and Influence People&lt;/a&gt;.  You can find it as a PDF.  It sounds old and corny, but it's chock full of exactly what your need in Diplomacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T15:42:10.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2012-08-09T21:29:52.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geth's Grimoire deck&lt;/strong&gt; - Win through discard. Half as cheap, with a better AVG life loss per dollar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt; ($0.05) {B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($1) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Gix&quot;&gt;Priest of Gix&lt;/a&gt; ($0.25) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Gix&quot;&gt;Priest of Gix&lt;/a&gt; ($0.25) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Culling%20the%20Weak&quot;&gt;Culling the Weak&lt;/a&gt; on Priest of Gix ($0.50) 6x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Culling%20the%20Weak&quot;&gt;Culling the Weak&lt;/a&gt; on Priest of Gix ($0.50) 9x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=51070&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{4} - Whenever an opponent discards a card, you may draw a card.&quot;&gt;Geth's Grimoire&lt;/a&gt; ($0.25) 5x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rotting%20Rats&quot;&gt;Rotting Rats&lt;/a&gt; ($0.05) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8th card played, opponents discard down to 6. Draw 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Culling%20the%20Weak&quot;&gt;Culling the Weak&lt;/a&gt; on Rotting Rats ($0.50) 6x{B} #Threshold#&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Cabal Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($0.75) 9x{B}0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205035&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;{1}{B} - Whenever an opponent discards a card, that player loses 2 life.&quot;&gt;Liliana's Caress&lt;/a&gt; ($1.20) 7x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lilianas Caress ($1.20) 5x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Unearth) Rotting Rats 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponents discard down to 5 and -4 life (16). Draw 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Cabal Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($0.75) 6x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Delirium%20Skeins&quot;&gt;Delirium Skeins&lt;/a&gt; ($0.05) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponents discard down to 2 and -12 life (4). Draw 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Delirium%20Skeins&quot;&gt;Delirium Skeins&lt;/a&gt; ($0.05) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponents discard down to 0 and -8 life (2 triggers remain on stack). Game Over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 cards (AVG 5.3 life/card)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;32 mana (AVG 2.5 life/mana)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 life loss total (16 on the stack not included.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$7.40 (AVG 10.8 life/$)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-09T21:41:47.903" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T21:41:47.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8080" CreationDate="2012-08-09T21:42:55.333" Score="16" ViewCount="5696" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is an &lt;code&gt;LCG&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking at Lord of the Rings board games and came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1589949811&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lord Of The Rings: The Card Game&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw that all of the expansions were marked with &lt;code&gt;LCG&lt;/code&gt;. I've done some Google searches, but there doesn't seem to be anything like a Wikipedia entry for &lt;code&gt;LCG&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is &lt;code&gt;LCG&lt;/code&gt; a genre?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does it compare to Magic (&lt;code&gt;CCG&lt;/code&gt;)?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or Dominion (Deck Building)? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2806" LastEditorUserId="2806" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T16:33:30.620" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T16:33:30.620" Title="What is an LCG (Living Card Games)?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8079" CreationDate="2012-08-09T21:56:04.977" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that Living Card Games is a term used (and owned) by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read about them on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_npm_sec.asp?eidm=14&amp;amp;esem=1&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt;.  The basic theory is that they release a core set and potentially endless expansion packs.  However unlike Magic: The Gathering and other collectible card games, each set (core or otherwise) comes complete in each pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should keep the cost much less for LCG's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-08-09T21:56:04.977" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2012-08-09T22:51:04.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Damned Spirits&lt;/strong&gt; - Spirits to grave, and turbo mana. Cheapest combo so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swamp ($0.05) {B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($1) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($1) 5x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Gix&quot;&gt;Priest of Gix&lt;/a&gt; ($0.25) 5x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Culling%20the%20Weak&quot;&gt;Culling the Weak&lt;/a&gt; on Priest of Gix ($0.50) 8x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iname%2C%20Death%20Aspect&quot;&gt;Iname, Death Aspect&lt;/a&gt; for 20 common Spirits ($0.20) 2x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Songs%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Songs of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; ($0.10) B + 21 = 22x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exsanguinate&quot;&gt;Exsanguinate&lt;/a&gt; for 20. ($0.05)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 cards (AVG 10 life/card) I suppose you could &amp;quot;cheat&amp;quot; to increase the AVG by filling the deck with 52 cheap spirits. This would allow you to Exsanguinate for  52 (AVG 26 life/card). The highest life per card average, but not realistic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;35 mana (AVG 2.5 life/mana)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 life lost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$4.65 (AVG 17.20 life/$)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T00:19:49.943" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T00:19:49.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8068" CreationDate="2012-08-10T01:51:23.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Storm Kobolds&lt;/strong&gt; - Storm for infinite damage (could &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brain%20Freeze&quot;&gt;Brain Freeze&lt;/a&gt; for mill and then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning%20Inquiry&quot;&gt;Burning Inquiry&lt;/a&gt; to draw opponents out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swamp ($0.05) {B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; ($1) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Gix&quot;&gt;Priest of Gix&lt;/a&gt; ($0.25) 3x{B}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burnt%20Offering&quot;&gt;Burnt Offering&lt;/a&gt; on Priest of Gix ($0.10) 2x{B} 3x{R}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudstone%20Curio&quot;&gt;Cloudstone Curio&lt;/a&gt; ($2.50) 2x{R}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crimson%20Kobolds&quot;&gt;Crimson Kobolds&lt;/a&gt; ($1 each) For infinite bounce/Storm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grapeshot&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt; ($0.05)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Statistics&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 cards (AVG 10 life/card)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 mana (AVG 8 life/mana)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 total life loss (infinite technically)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$5.70 (AVG 14.04 life/$)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T01:51:23.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8084" CreationDate="2012-08-10T02:24:26.793" Score="8" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Dominion, 3-player game, I get a 5-2 split on the opening and get a Witch and a Pearl Diver. Other players have 4-3, they both open Jack of All Trades and Silver. I pick up a Jack and Silver my second time through, and my Witch shows up at the very bottom, so I draw it on turn 5 with the hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Witch, Jack of All Trades, Estate, Copper, Copper.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question: which one do I play? It's still very early in the game, no one else has a Witch at this point, is it better to try to slow my opponents down by cursing them or to speed my own deck up by gaining a silver and trashing an estate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as in all Dominion strategy questions, this could depend on the other Kingdom cards, but I'd like to keep answers general. That said, in case you're curious I'll provide context for this game because I don't think any of the other cards impacted my decision much: there weren't many other tempting kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$6: Harem, Fairgrounds&#xA;$5: Witch, Horn of Plenty&#xA;$4: Bureaucrat, Gardens, Jack of All Trades, Smithy&#xA;$3: Smugglers&#xA;$2: Pearl Diver&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other $5 was Horn of Plenty--which I definitely don't want to pick up too early. My general strategy was to get either a Smithy or a second Jack depending on whether my opponents picked up Witches, and otherwise buy money and Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T10:54:46.913" Title="To trash an estate or to curse my opponents?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8083" CreationDate="2012-08-10T02:56:25.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should play Jack of All Trades&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will not be slowing your opponents down much with Witch, because they are buying Jack of All Trades as well, and will just &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2011/12/05/hinterlands-jack-of-all-trades/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trash the curse&lt;/a&gt; you give them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DoubleJack/Big Money crushes attacks.  Sea Hag?  Trash the Curse.  Militia?  Draw back up.  Rabble?  Chuck the Victory card.  And all throughout it’s gaining Silver.  Attacks barely matter at all to DoubleJack: in the simulators, it obliterates Sea Hag/Big Money and DoubleMilitia, solidly beats ChapelWitch and ChapelMountebank, and goes toe-to-toe with DoubleMountebank and DoubleWitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T10:54:46.913" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T10:54:46.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2012-08-10T08:41:52.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use the following approaches in any game in which you need to tell your opponents something that is not true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tell a lie that is close to the truth, but still can give you an&#xA;advantage in the game. The smaller the lie is, the harder it is to&#xA;detect it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lie casually at non-critical moments to confuse detection&#xA;strategies that your opponents may use. For example in a game in which&#xA;card drawing is an aspect, now and then say &quot;yes!&quot;, or &quot;ugh&quot; after&#xA;drawing a card, just to give your opponents the idea that you drew a&#xA;brilliant/terrible card, regardless of the quality of the card. Or for example in Settlers of Catan be happy with a resource that you have many of already or be neutral about receiving a resource that is very useful to you. Make it hard for your opponents to detect the truth so that detecting a lie is also hard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove aspects that regard your lie from your own view, so you don't&#xA;accidentally look at them and give away your lie. For example, in&#xA;poker, put your cards face down when deciding to rise so you can not look at&#xA;them and see that they are bad and perhaps make a facial expression&#xA;that gives you away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T08:41:52.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8089" CreationDate="2012-08-10T12:12:24.287" Score="0" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of four Living Card Games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warhammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Call of Cthulhu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;game of Thrones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lord of the rings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there somewhere that maintains a canonical list of all LCG's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2806" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-10T19:19:47.080" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T19:19:47.080" Title="Where can I find what LCG's exist?" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-09-26T15:40:34.070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8090" CreationDate="2012-08-10T12:46:37.973" Score="2" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the example in Today's New York Post, the bidding went: S 1 spade, N 2 clubs, S 2 NT, N3 spades, S 4 Spades (East and West passed throughout).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West led the 9 of hearts, which as between these defenders, meant &quot;top of nothing&quot; in a two or three card suit,  probably looking for a ruff. With A732 of hearts, East signaled with the 7, got a heart lead to the ace when West came in with a high spade trick, and led back a heart for a ruff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North's hearts were KJxx. Suppose East had the QUEEN of hearts instead of the ace, but the ace of DIAMONDs instead. With a supposed &quot;stranded&quot; honor (assuming West's top of nothing lead denied the ace), should East have DISCOURAGED on hearts and have West lead a diamond?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T07:09:13.160" Title="In Bridge, should a defender &quot;encourage&quot; with a &quot;stranded honor?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8087" CreationDate="2012-08-10T13:36:01.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;strong&gt;Living Card Game&lt;/strong&gt; is a trademark of Fantasy Flight Games, you should just be able to check their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_colecciones.asp?eidc=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;product page&lt;/a&gt; and find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Android: Netrunner the Card Game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star Wars: The Card Game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are asking if there are any expandable card games, where there isn't any randomness in the cards you get with each expansion (I.E. This is unlike Magic: the Gathering's &lt;strong&gt;Trading/Collectible Card&lt;/strong&gt; game model, with booster packs that are &lt;strong&gt;random&lt;/strong&gt; so you have no idea what you are getting), then it would be difficult to track. There have been other games using the LCG model, but cannot use the term for Trademark infringement reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/games/summoner-wars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Summoner Wars&lt;/a&gt; by Plaid Hat Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://killerbunnies.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Killer Bunnies&lt;/a&gt; by Playroom Entertainment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-10T13:46:57.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8088" CreationDate="2012-08-10T14:48:23.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I think hearts should be discouraged. Given West's lead is top of nothing then South must have the Ace and probably the ten too (if not its one of North's xs) so hearts are pretty disastrous, especially as West's lead has probably given declarer a free finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course to really know we need to see the other suits in the visible hands (one would assume there either has to be a better suit to attack or defense has no chance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also probably worth noting that top of nothing is usually a lead made when nothing better is available so we can probably infer that West has a poor hand to lead with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="594" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T07:09:13.160" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T07:09:13.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8092" CreationDate="2012-08-10T21:30:14.953" Score="4" ViewCount="1597" Body="&lt;p&gt;Discussing combat, the rules (p.9, &lt;em&gt;Combat Outcomes&lt;/em&gt;) say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you failed to defeat all the defenders of a &lt;em&gt;fortified site&lt;/em&gt;, you have to withdraw back to the space you were attacking from. If it is not a safe place, Forced withdrawal rules apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Forced withdrawal&lt;/strong&gt; rule (p.9, *End of the Turn&quot;) says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You must end your turn on a safe space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a) If you are not on a safe space, you must backtrack your move until you arrive at a safe space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) For each space you move while backtracking, add a Wound to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the fortified site with enemies remaining is not a safe space, and I am told to withdraw to my original space. On the other hand, the wording isn't explicit that this is a forced withdrawal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do I automatically take a wound for failing to capture the site?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T22:54:36.677" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T22:54:36.677" Title="If I fail to defeat all defenders of a fortified site, does this count as a forced withdrawal?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8091" CreationDate="2012-08-10T22:07:29.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you only take one or more wounds if you are forced to withdraw from the space you were attacking from. You are misreading the rule, probably because it is badly worded (too many pronouns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you failed to defeat all the defenders of a fortified site, you have to withdraw back to the space you were attacking from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must withdraw to the space you attacked from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it [the space you attacked from] is not a safe place, Forced withdrawal rules apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the space you were attacking from is not safe, (i.e. contains another character, is on water, etc.) then you must withdraw from that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The designer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/789/vlaada-chvatil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vlaada Chvatil&lt;/a&gt; has answered this question in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8027196#8027196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, quoted here with out the notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, you do not use forced withdrawal when your assault fails. You use it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) When your tun ends, for whatever reason, on inaccessible space (most usually because you assaulted or attacked another player form a lake using some water walking skill, but you might also try to reveal new tile when standing on a lake hex, and then finding out you cannot enter it because some high cost terrain, enemy or fortified site blocks your way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) When you turn ends on space with another player, and PvP is not allowed for whatever reason (either turned off by scenario settings, or because it is your teammate, or because end of day or end of game was already triggered). Again, this can happen if you assault or explore from a space occupied by another player, and fail to move on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-11T00:42:26.823" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T00:42:26.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T02:21:22.710" Score="4" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/8083/1749&quot;&gt;a question&lt;/a&gt; about whether to trash an Estate with Jack of All Trades or play a Witch to curse my opponents. The answer was a definitive &quot;trash!&quot;, because Jack is so good at trashing that the curse wouldn't be effective at all at slowing the others. My question now is &lt;strong&gt;how good does a trasher have to be to make trashing a better move than Cursing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I put a list below of (I think) all the action cards costing $5 or less that you can use to trash one of your own cards but don't give +Actions. Given the same set-up as in the previous question, which of these should be played rather than a Witch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;## Trashers&#xA;Ambassador&#xA;Bishop&#xA;Chapel&#xA;Island&#xA;Jack of All Trades&#xA;Masquerade&#xA;Mine&#xA;Moneylender&#xA;Remake&#xA;Remodel    &#xA;Salvager&#xA;Steward&#xA;Trader&#xA;Trading Post&#xA;Transmute&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the other question, the other cards available are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$6: Harem, Fairgrounds&#xA;$5: Witch, Horn of Plenty&#xA;$4: Bureaucrat, Gardens, Smithy&#xA;$3: Smugglers&#xA;$2: Pearl Diver&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's early in the game, no opponents have a Witch yet, the both have 1 trasher, and your hand is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Trasher, Witch, Estate, Copper, Copper.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T20:32:49.810" Title="Trash an Estate or Curse your opponents? Full Version" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T13:15:25.160" Score="6" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick Question on these Spells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Artist&quot;&gt;Blood Artist&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Arsonist&quot;&gt;Goblin Arsonist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I cast pillar of flame on Goblin Arsonist or Blood Artist, would it still trigger their ability? From my understanding after being hit by Pillar of Flame the creature still dies but instead of going to the graveyard, it'll be exiled. Can anybody help me with this?Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3160" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-11T13:58:01.943" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T18:42:20.447" Title="Pillar of Flame, Blood Artist and Goblin Arsonist Trigger Ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8094" CreationDate="2012-08-11T14:35:12.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pillar of Flames replacement effect prevents the other cards triggered abilities from triggering, because it replaces the &lt;strong&gt;put into the graveyard&lt;/strong&gt; event with &lt;strong&gt;exile&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Die&lt;/strong&gt; is a new Magic 2010 keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When [this card] is put into the graveyard from the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pillar of Flame says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pillar of Flame deals 2 damage to target creature or player. If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Pillar of Flame resolves, this is what the event looks like assuming it is targeting the goblin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pillar of Flame deals 2 damage to [Goblin Arsonist].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PoF's replacement effect is set up waiting to see if Goblin Arsonist dies this turn. &amp;quot;If [Goblin Arsonist] would [be put into the graveyard from the battlefield] this turn, exile it instead.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-Based Actions are checked, (see rule 704.5g)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Arsonist would be &lt;strong&gt;destroyed&lt;/strong&gt; because of State-Based Actions, but that event is replaced. The new event looks like:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move [Goblin Arsonist] from the battlefield to [exile].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Goblin Arsonist was never placed in it's owners graveyard, but instead was placed in exile, it never triggers the &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot; event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6a To destroy a permanent, move it from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens. &lt;strong&gt;A modified event occurs instead&lt;/strong&gt;, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can't be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T15:44:57.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8094" CreationDate="2012-08-11T15:03:32.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; doesn't cover Handling Replacement effects extensively, but you can figure out the correct answer from it. We know that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt; is creating a replacement effect, because it uses the word &amp;quot;instead.&amp;quot; Replacement effects wait for a particular event to occur, and instead of that event occurring they cause a different one to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pillar of Flame, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Arsonist&quot;&gt;Goblin Arsonist&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Artist&quot;&gt;Blood Artist&lt;/a&gt; are all waiting for Goblin Arsonist to die. Die is shorthand for, &amp;quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.&amp;quot; The triggered abilities of Goblin Arsonist/Blood Artist never trigger, because Pillar of Flame replaces the placing the putting the creature in the graveyard with putting the creature in exile. The creature never hits the graveyard at all, so the event that would have triggered Gobling Arsonist/Blood Artist never happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;REPLACEMENT EFFECT&lt;/strong&gt; - A kind of effect that waits for a particular event and then replaces that event with a different one. Replacement effects have the word “instead” in them. For example, Darksteel Colossus reads, in part, “&lt;strong&gt;If Darksteel Colossus would be put into a graveyard from anywhere&lt;/strong&gt;, reveal Darksteel Colossus and shuffle it into its owner’s library instead.” The effect replaces the action of putting Darksteel Colossus into the graveyard with the action of shuffling it into its owner’s library. &lt;strong&gt;Darksteel Colossus never hits the graveyard at all.&lt;/strong&gt; (Glossary, page 31)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DIES&lt;/strong&gt; - “Dies” is another way to say that a creature “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.” (Glossary, page 25)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TRIGGERED ABILITIES&lt;/strong&gt; - A triggered ability is text that happens when a specific event occurs in the game. ... (page 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T15:03:32.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8093" CreationDate="2012-08-11T18:04:17.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend to me on what the other player(s) have in their deck.  That would be a VERY important part of what would make me choose which one to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one else had a card like Jack of all Trades (something to trash cards with) then I would 100% go for playing the card handing out curses!  It would serve to do two things.  1) Slows their plays down, and 2) Forces them to buy cards not in their original strategy.  In doing this you force them to play your way, in which they are already behind your lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 50% of the people had nothing to trash with I would still do it because I would have gained control over half of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Less then 50% I would use the Jack of all Trades to trash the Witch.  ;)  At that point the curse is going to be no where near as effective as the Jack of all Trades.  I would need to make ground on getting my deck slimmed down instead of trying to fatten up everyone else's decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3162" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T18:04:17.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T18:26:25.613" Score="12" ViewCount="4001" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner opened 1 Club. I held:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; S: J732&#xA; H: -&#xA; D: Axxxx&#xA; C: QJxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She was upset that I bid two clubs rather than 1 Spade. I did not think the Spade suit was good enough to bid. What do you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another &quot;convenient&quot; minor open I had 4 Spades and 4 Hearts, both with two honors, and 8 points. I bid 1 NT, which I thought would indicate that I could support either suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same partner both times and caught a lot of flack over these bids. Was my thinking wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3163" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-26T02:24:06.737" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T02:24:06.737" Title="Response to &quot;convenient&quot; minor bid" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8104" CreationDate="2012-08-11T19:25:16.947" Score="7" ViewCount="4159" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have moved units on to a ship, and then that ship gets attacked, do I add their points to my defense power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3166" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T17:26:28.823" Title="In Game of Thrones naval battles, do land units on the ship count?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T19:30:56.630" Score="6" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/35677/le-havre&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; says Le Havre takes about 150 minutes, but I'm curious if the time varies with the number of players as it does in Puerto Rico and Agricola. Approximately how long does it take to play Le Havre with 2, 3, 4, and 5 people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-11T20:20:38.867" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T14:32:10.580" Title="How long does it take to play Le Havre with different numbers of players?" Tags="|play-time|le-havre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-11T19:32:19.607" Score="12" ViewCount="13324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good Euchre bidding strategy guide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the game, but find my bidding to be very hit or miss. And I've been unable to find a strategy guide for Euchre bidding patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either a good strategy or a link to a good preextant guide would answer my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-11T19:56:36.720" LastActivityDate="2018-02-19T17:13:59.690" Title="Good Euchre bidding strategy guide?" Tags="|bidding|euchre|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8101" CreationDate="2012-08-11T20:56:11.983" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the board game &lt;em&gt;A Game of Thrones: the Board Game&lt;/em&gt;, land units do not board ships, and thus do not occupy the same location. Rather, ship units allow you to treat two coastal locations as adjacent for the purposes of using March orders on land units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;2nd edition rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 23:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any two land areas are considered adjacent for the purposes of&#xA;  marching and retreating when they are connected by consecutive sea&#xA;  areas (or a single sea area) each containing one or more friendly Ship&#xA;  units. In other words, Ship units in consecutively adjacent sea areas&#xA;  form a direct “bridge” for Knights, Footmen, and Siege Engines to move&#xA;  directly from a coastal area to another coastal area in one move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a further note, when using the Support order: whilst ship units are able to provide support to adjacent land or sea locations, land units can never provide support to sea locations; as on page 18: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ship units may support adjacent combat in a sea area or a land area.&#xA;  Footmen, Knights, or Siege Engine units, however, may never provide&#xA;  support to combat in a sea area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it would be possible, for example, to use a ship with a Support order to transport land units into an enemy-controlled location, and then have that ship support the land units in the subsequent battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T20:56:11.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8102" CreationDate="2012-08-11T23:47:10.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's 30-60 minutes for player, very much like Agricola. This is in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Le_Havre_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, but I think it says it on the box too. &lt;a href=&quot;http://lookout-games.de/wp-content/uploads/lh_rules_enpdf.zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; (zipped pdf from the publisher) have a time/rounds per player table with the conservative estimate (60 minutes per player) for the full game, along with a ~30 minutes per player estimate for the shortened version (20, 45, 120, 130, 150 minutes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-08-11T23:47:10.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8099" CreationDate="2012-08-12T04:18:50.210" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are playing some simple form of standard american, yes your thinking was wrong on both hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the responder is supposed to &quot;bid up the line&quot;, giving preference to majors in case she has a 6-9 point hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the first hand, you can either bid 1D or 1S. The reason to bid 1S instead of 1D is that the auction 1C-1D-1H-1S &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have a special meaning (4th suit bids can have special meanings) and might show a stronger hand than what you have. Suit quality considerations are very rare when responding at the one level and your hand is not one of those rare hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the second hand, you must bid 1H, and if partner bids 1S you can raise to 2S. 1NT actually denies a 4 card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scoring in bridge gives preference to majors and as a result most bidding systems give preference to the majors. Bypassing 4 card majors when responding is usually considered bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T04:18:50.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2012-08-12T04:44:12.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;People often forget the rule that &lt;em&gt;non-active players may not trade amongst themselves&lt;/em&gt; which could slow down the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1960" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T04:44:12.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="826" CreationDate="2012-08-12T08:21:39.323" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is we use the rule to increase the amount by 3 for each expansion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you use both so 10 + 3 + 3 = 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3168" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-10-19T11:31:08.930" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T11:31:08.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8112" CreationDate="2012-08-12T11:27:58.570" Score="1" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was digging round trying to see if the copyright for Warhammer Fantasy Quest was still held by Games workshop who stopped producing the game 14 years ago. I don't know how long the copyright would last even if it was still held, in the UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who owns the copyright for a boardgame that is out of print?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long will copyright last for?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T19:43:30.863" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T22:36:10.473" Title="How long does the copyright for a game last, after it is out of print?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|copyright|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-09-19T02:13:00.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-12T14:55:56.923" Score="9" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but while browsing board-game related forums I've often heard the term 'Caylus-like' used to describe a game (One usage I remember is that the family version of Agricola was called 'Caylus-like' when compared to the full version). Never having played Caylus, I have no idea what it means, and haven't been able to figure out a good definition from the context. If I had to guess, I'd say it meant that the game had a lot of strategy with very little luck, but I still think I'm missing something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does 'Caylus-like' mean? What are people saying about a game when they describe it in this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T16:00:02.500" Title="What does it mean for a game to be 'Caylus-like'?" Tags="|caylus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4300" CreationDate="2012-08-12T15:00:23.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(tldnr: use a timer when trading)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will assume 6 players, so all cards are used.&#xA;There are 151 cards in the deck.  30 are dealt out at the start leaving us with 121.&#xA;Each turn 5 cards are draw, meaning before the first reshuffle there will be 24 turns.&#xA;You can't use simple math to show how long the other 2 reshuffles will take, but in my experience the last 2 put together are about as long as the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now all that we need to do is use a timer and give players 1 min to trade.  48 turns at most a min but often less+ some book keeping and shuffling, comes out to about a 45 min game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T15:00:23.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8109" CreationDate="2012-08-12T15:31:16.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As previously pointed out, just because a copyright holder has stopped producing a game doesn't mean they stop owning it.  GW still own the rights (unless they have sold them; you could write and ask them if this is more than curiosity).  Games are usually covered by copyright in the rules, characters and concepts though there may be patents on mechanics; whichever feature you are specifically interested in, there will be a law stopping casual copying unless GW's lawyers were totally incompetent, which seems unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T15:31:16.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8110" CreationDate="2012-08-12T15:31:49.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is probably meant by this, is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/30851/worker-placement-games/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Worker Placement&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; game. With Caylus being a good example of such a game, with the added benefit of having very little random elements (only the initial neutral buildings, and starting turn order), and ranking high with many board game enthusiasts within their favorite games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This geeklist is a collection of all boardgames that are considered &amp;quot;worker placement&amp;quot; games. Thanks to some insightful comments, the following attributes define this category:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placement of the pieces gives you something. (This eliminates games like Chess.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a limit to the number of pieces per location. (This eliminates area majority games like Leonardo Da Vinci, Louis XIV.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, all workers are removed after each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is more than one worker per player. (This distinguishes worker placement from role selection like Puerto Rico.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players are competing for the limited locations to place their workers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why the Family Version of Agricola would be considered more Caylus-like, that is probably because the family version removes some of the randomness (Occupation &amp;amp; Minor Improvement cards). Those 7 cards that are dealt to each player are unavailable to the other players, and are hidden information, where the Major Improvements are available to everyone and open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T16:00:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8110" CreationDate="2012-08-12T15:47:34.023" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The four distinguishing features of Caylus are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/30851/worker-placement-games/page/1&quot;&gt;worker placement&lt;/a&gt; game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfect_information#Game_Theory&quot;&gt;perfect information&lt;/a&gt; - you know everything about the state of the game, and nothing is hidden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has a clever and unusual &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/798100/why-is-caylus-still-in-the-top-ten-after-7-years&quot;&gt;turn-order mechanic&lt;/a&gt;, which is complex to play well, and absolutely critical to the strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has no luck. Like chess, there are no sources of randomness in Caylus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone describing a game as Caylus-like can be referring to any of these fairly unusual characteristics. In your example, the Family version of Agricola is &quot;Caylus-like&quot; partly because it is worker placement, but also because there are no Minor Improvements or Occupations, so no cards held in hand, so there is no hidden information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play this game fairly regularly, and I have to say, it's pretty special. Other games often share one or more of these features, but the combination of mechanics is unique to Caylus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-08-12T15:47:34.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8120" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:13:13.417" Score="15" ViewCount="6624" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you handle a situation where the bottom card drawn in an epidemic is for a city with 2 or 3 cubes (of the same color) on it already?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if Mumbai has 2 black cubes on it due to prior outbreaks in Chennai and Delhi, what happens if Mumbai is then drawn as the bottom card in the epidemic?  The first cube placed would put the total number of cubes up to three, the next would cause an outbreak, but would the third cube cause a second outbreak?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a literal reading of the rules would seem to imply as much, it seems almost guaranteed to cause cascading outbreaks and almost certain loss.  Is my literal reading accurate? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T01:56:39.097" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T04:33:13.067" Title="Bottom card drawn during epidemic: What happens if there is already more than one disease cube in the city?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8121" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:37:59.167" Score="17" ViewCount="1660" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sorin%2C%20Lord%20of%20Innistrad&quot;&gt;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt; with scads of loyalty. I've got a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%20Jura&quot;&gt;Gideon Jura&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nihil%20Spellbomb&quot;&gt;Nihil Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He activates Sorin's &amp;quot;ultimate&amp;quot; ability, targeting Gideon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-6: Destroy up to three target creatures and/or other planeswalkers. Return each card put into a graveyard this way to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way I can use the Spellbomb to prevent my opponent from stealing Gideon after he is sent to my graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T04:37:44.583" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T04:41:10.670" Title="Can I cast a spell while another spell or ability is resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8118" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:42:36.763" Score="8" ViewCount="3065" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the special powers give bonus coins based on regions you &quot;occupy at turn end.&quot; Does this include regions controlled by your previous race that has gone into decline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have a race in decline that occupies two forest regions and your current active race has the Forest power, do you get two additional coins for the forest regions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="798" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T21:11:34.567" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T21:11:34.567" Title="Do bonus coin powers include territories controlled by races in decline?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8117" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:48:49.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each race is separate.  In this case you would not get the additional coins for forests controlled by the race in decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Regions these In Decline tokens occupy also each contribute&#xA;  1 Victory coin to the player; Though the Race banner and Special&#xA;  Power benefits no longer contribute any bonus coins, unless&#xA;  explicitly stated otherwise in said Race or Special Power benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T01:48:49.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:55:45.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just one outbreak occurs&lt;/strong&gt; (unless the original outbreak cascades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/Pandemic_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No city can contain more&#xA;  than 3 cubes of any one color. If the Epidemic would cause the&#xA;  city to exceed that limit, any excess cubes are returned to the&#xA;  stock and an outbreak is triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T01:55:45.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8115" CreationDate="2012-08-13T01:57:59.780" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually explicitly mentioned in the rulebook, on page 6, under Epidemics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2)   Infect: Take the bottom card from the Infection Draw Pile and add 3 cubes to the city pictured on the card, then place the card into the Infection Discard Pile. Note: No city can contain more than 3 cubes of any one colour. &lt;strong&gt;If the Epidemic would cause the city to exceed that limit, any excess cubes are returned to the stock and an outbreak is triggered.&lt;/strong&gt; See rules for Outbreaks on page 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is only one outbreak: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;any excess cubes are returned to the stock and &lt;strong&gt;an&lt;/strong&gt; outbreak is triggered &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Mumbai has 2 black cubes, and comes up during the Infect phase of the epidemic, Mumbai only outbreaks once, and ends up with 3 cubes. Of course, this outbreak might cause chain reactions as usual (which, as usual, cannot cause Mumbai to outbreak a second time during the chain reaction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to prevent this situation is to keep track of the cities that might outbreak (3 cube cities that aren't in the infection discard pile, or if the infection discard pile is getting large, all 3 cube cities), and reduce them to 1 cube cities. I think it's also important to deal with cities that have just had outbreaks - since if they pop again, there will be a large group of interconnected 2/3 cube cities, leading to the loss situation you describe. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/752012/losing-on-the-first-turn-to-a-terribly-infectious&quot;&gt;particular draw of the setup&lt;/a&gt;, affects the difficulty a lot - in my opinion, much more than the number of epidemic cards in the deck. One way to deal with this is to choose the number of epidemic cards to play with &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you've set up the initial infected cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T04:33:13.067" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T04:33:13.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8116" CreationDate="2012-08-13T04:04:14.143" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. Except for effects that specifically instruct a player to cast a spell, spells/abilities may not normally be played during the resolution of a spell or ability. Since Sorin's ability is both destroying, and returning Gideon, there is no point at which you would have priority to activate the Nihilism Spellbomb to remove the Planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to read up on how &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;priority&lt;/a&gt; works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2f If an effect gives a player the option to pay mana, he or she may activate mana abilities before taking that action. If an effect specifically instructs or allows a player to cast a spell during resolution, he or she does so by putting that spell on top of the stack, then continuing to cast it by following the steps in rules 601.2a–h, except no player receives priority after it's cast. The currently resolving spell or ability then continues to resolve, which may include casting other spells this way. &lt;strong&gt;No other spells can normally be cast and no other abilities can normally be activated during resolution.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T04:20:56.360" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T04:20:56.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8099" CreationDate="2012-08-13T09:26:07.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bidding a new suit is usually considered forcing for one round so you should be able to bid your diamonds or spades then return to clubs if needed (i.e. you should be guaranteed to be able to bid up the line as per Aryabhata's answer and still end up in clubs if you want)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="594" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T09:31:38.640" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T09:31:38.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8127" CreationDate="2012-08-13T12:35:50.013" Score="13" ViewCount="4600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Talisman back in the 1980s - I don't know whether it was the first or second edition. I enjoyed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of years later I'm back into board games - particularly Catan, Dominion, Carcasonne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that the latest version of Talisman is a 4th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this most recent edition compare with the original game? What has changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:54:45.427" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:54:45.427" Title="How does Talisman 4th Edition compare with earlier versions?" Tags="|talisman|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-13T18:59:35.790" Score="7" ViewCount="2278" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an old card game I want, but it's been out of print for 15 years and currently going for &gt;$1000 used. There are just 80 cards in the game, and I've got a friend who does own it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan is just to scan the cards, print them two-sided, laminate them and cut them out with a knife. I could also get plastic pockets and print the front and back separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some common pitfalls in printing a card game, and what am I likely to have missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Don't worry, of course I'll mail a fit donation to the manufacturers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3173" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T02:14:11.310" Title="What to keep in mind when copying a small card game?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3239" CreationDate="2012-08-13T19:14:11.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are not forced to fight immediately.  However, if the Prussian corps remains in Mecklenburg, at the conclusion of its movement phase, it would fight a trivial combat with the Russian depot garrison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3174" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T19:14:11.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8116" CreationDate="2012-08-13T19:37:57.227" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @user1873 said, the situation you described wouldn't help you much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; keep your opponent's grubby little paws off of your stuff, however, would be things that prevent stuff from hitting the graveyard in the first place. Any replacement effects that say something like &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;If a creature would be put into the graveyard, exile it instead&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; would keep things from hitting the graveyard and hence prevent them from being returned to the battlefield under the opponent's control (since it never goes to the graveyard due to the replacement effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of this include: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Samurai%20of%20the%20Pale%20Curtain&quot;&gt;Samurai of the Pale Curtain&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yawgmoth%20Agenda&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth Agenda&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yawgmoth%20Will&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth Will&lt;/a&gt; (though this is a sorcery, and so wouldn't help in this situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T04:41:10.670" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T04:41:10.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8123" CreationDate="2012-08-13T21:06:59.200" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the posters on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/247531/difference-between-1st-and-2nd-version&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt;, the only changes between 1st and 2nd edition were cosmetic.&#xA; Although one poster mentions slightly different wording on some of the wands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences between 2nd edition and 4th edition are noted on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/1434-differences-between-the-new-edition-and-the-classic-2nd-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cosmetic changes, including larger board, cards, plastic bits, and cardboard cutout characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;RULES and GAME Mechanics&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6) Major Difference - Craft can be gained for every &lt;em&gt;7&lt;/em&gt; points of craft monsters defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7) Major Difference - Spell Casting Limitations - In their turn, the maximum number of Spells a character may cast is equal to the number of spells, and whichever spells they possessed at the start of that Turn. A Character may only cast one Spell during another Character's Turn. This does not apply to the Command Spell. (If you ALWAYS have a Spell due to the Wand or Ability, you draw your 'new' spell at the end of your turn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8) Major Difference - Mules are &lt;em&gt;NO LONGER&lt;/em&gt; OBJECTS, they are considered 'FOLLOWERS' &quot;The mule can carry an extra 4 objects for you while it is your follower. If you lose the mule, you will leave any surplus objects of your choice in the space you are in.&quot; I.E Mules can be 'Mesmerised' by the spell but NOT 'Acquisitioned' by the spell, hence if you win a character to character battle, you can no longer 'take' the mule, as its no longer an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Visiting the Villiage shops is not optional, &lt;strong&gt;Market Day&lt;/strong&gt; allows everyone to buy from a market rather than trade with each other, Orb of Knowledge is no longer one use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="17508" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T23:55:10.843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T23:55:10.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8140" CreationDate="2012-08-13T21:08:27.650" Score="7" ViewCount="2673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a cube and was wondering how much mana fixing is necessary to build a fun cube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it necessary to have all the fetch lands and revised duals or shock lands to make sure that the players have the right manabase or is ok to forgo those cards for something simple (and less expensive) like evolving wilds and M10 lands + Innistrad lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T05:49:57.580" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T06:04:36.637" Title="Mana fixing in a Cube" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8128" CreationDate="2012-08-13T21:25:33.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it depends on what type of cards you've included in your cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember that the Invasion block had lots of mana fixing because they wanted to encourage multi-colour deckbuilding due to the Domain mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Mirrodin block didn't require much (except for colourless splashable Myr) due to the artifact-heavy nature of the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a balance of a couple or three common lands/artifacts/fetch spells and a cycle of more colour specific uncommons/rares is a pretty standard way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T21:25:33.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8128" CreationDate="2012-08-13T22:51:11.163" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everything is possible, YOU decide what is fun and how you want to build your Cube. Here is a detailed article on &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151127023450/http://www.cubedrafting.com/2009/03/20/how-to-begin-your-cube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the basic of cube building&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, it depends on :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Budget. Fetch lands and original dual lands are expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Level. They allow to build more reliable decks than any other duals (that's a reason why Legacy and Vintage are more powerful than Standard or Modern)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored requirement in your spells. The more you want to play with gold cards, the more mana fixing you need. Same with spells with several colored mana requirement (white knight versus squire). Note that this also impacts power lever since usually stronger color requirements allow MtG designers to build stronger cards such as Pernicious Deed or Phyrexian Obliterator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end you can go anywhere from a high-power cube (my take, I like to play with the full P9 in the Cube so it's like building Vintage decks) to very low level with all commons or &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20130613130242/http://www.mtgsalvation.com/1375-the-underworld-cookbook-library-cube.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the curve learning cube described in this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-06T06:00:50.120" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T06:00:50.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8128" CreationDate="2012-08-13T22:51:56.343" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?page=0&amp;amp;sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5BSearch%5D%20%5Blibrary%5D%20%5Bbasic%5D&amp;amp;color=%20!%5BG%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer Search&lt;/a&gt; revealed at least 25 non-Green, fairly inexpensive basic land searchers (most $0.10 commons). Key cards of note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%20%5BPanorama%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panoramas&lt;/a&gt;: Example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bant%20Panorama&quot;&gt;Bant Panorama&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naya%20Panorama&quot;&gt;Naya Panorama&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terminal%20Moraine&quot;&gt;Terminal Moraine&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terramorphic%20Expanse&quot;&gt;Terramorphic Expanse&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Lieges&quot;&gt;Oath of Lieges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20%5BC%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5BBasic%5D%20%5Bland%5D%20%5BSearch%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BArtifact%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Artifact Searchers&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armillary%20Sphere&quot;&gt;Armillary Sphere&lt;/a&gt; et. Al.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5BBasic%5D%20%5Blandcycling%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Landcyclers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is without even listing all the dual lands that are available. There is a thread on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20130813074136/http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/25075485/Budget_Duals_and_Fetches_in_Multiplayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Multiplayer Wizards forum&lt;/a&gt; that displays alternatives to the original duals for people on a budget. The top post of the thread breaks the dual/tri lands into categories, first by cost, then by cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are also artifacts that tap for any &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22mana%20of%20any%20color%22%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5Bartifact%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;color&lt;/a&gt;, or three color(&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obelisk%20of%20Esper&quot;&gt;Obelisk of Esper&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obelisk%20of%20Naya&quot;&gt;Obelisk of Naya&lt;/a&gt;), or cheap Signet cycle (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Signet&quot;&gt;Boros Signet&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Signet&quot;&gt;Azorius Signet&lt;/a&gt;, et. al.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2022-05-08T06:04:36.637" LastActivityDate="2022-05-08T06:04:36.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8128" CreationDate="2012-08-13T23:04:18.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise against getting dual lands or shock lands. First of all, they are only good in decks where players are running those colors. If we assume everybody runs a 2-color deck of randomly chosen colors, there's a 10% chance that this card would be at all useful to them. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terramorphic Expanse/Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimmering Grotto&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manalith&lt;/a&gt; on the other hand will be at least partially useful in any deck that runs 2 colors, and even more so in a deck that runs 3-colors. I'm not a drafting expert, but whenever I see a dual land in a pack it usually gets picked close to last, while the 3 cards I mentioned go more quickly because they are more widely useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second of all, dual lands are pretty weak cards in draft. If you are given the choice between a dual land you want and a good spell, its almost always a better idea to take the spell. Dual lands are a mainstay in constructed because they are slightly better than basic lands, but in draft you need to get as much as possible of every pick, and you can't usually afford to spend one just to upgrade a single basic land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, dual/shock lands just aren't very interesting IMHO. They don't add any new archetypes to the cube like a few &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205035&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liliana's Caress&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spider Spawning&lt;/a&gt; potentially could, they don't really strengthen very many other archetypes, and most importantly, when you pick them, you don't get the amazing &lt;em&gt;Hehehe, lets see if my opponents can deal with this!&lt;/em&gt; feeling that you get from picking an awesome card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely suggest &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271196&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terramorphic Expanse/Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271203&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shimmering Grotto&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; because they are good mana-fixing cards in almost any deck. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manalith&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214344&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alloy Myr&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Darksteel Ingot&lt;/a&gt;, and other any-color 'mana-rocks' could also be a nice touch. These will allow players to build flexible mana-bases without having to wait to get a land in the colors they need and should take up less space than a bunch of color-specific lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a cube with a multicolor focus you may want to try &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Triple_lands#Shards_of_Alara_shardlands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Shards of Alara tri-lands&lt;/a&gt; because they will be viable in more decks or even &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;name=%20%5Bsignet%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the signets&lt;/a&gt;. Neither of them are great, but they are both useful in more contexts than the dual lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20%5BC%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5BBasic%5D%20%5Bland%5D%20%5BSearch%5D&amp;amp;type=%20%5BArtifact%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;user1873's list of Artifact Searchers&lt;/a&gt; should also be helpful. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2012-08-13T23:14:50.047" LastActivityDate="2012-08-13T23:14:50.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8135" CreationDate="2012-08-14T05:21:09.773" Score="6" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does having two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Arsonist&quot;&gt;Goblin Arsonist&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield cause their ability to deal 2 damage when one dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3175" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T14:50:34.300" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T14:50:34.300" Title="Does Goblin Arsonist's ability deal 2 damage when there are two in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-07T17:36:59.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8124" CreationDate="2012-08-14T05:29:47.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As commenters have pointed out, the copying that you are describing is illegal in most countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't legal advice (and it depends on where you're located), but a quick Google search about copying and protecting card games seems to suggest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/links/design.html&quot;&gt;that you probably can make a copy&lt;/a&gt; if you don't directly copy the artwork or wording used in the original game. It sounds like you can write out the rules in your own words, and make your own cards. Of course, some would say this is ethically questionable. And who knows what the issues are if the game mechanics are patented in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Don't worry, of course I'll mail a fit donation to the manufacturers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a better way. If the game is out of print, but the manufacturers are still contactable, why not just write to them? You can avoid the issue of illegal copyright infringement if you have permission. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like &quot;I am really interested in a copy of this game. Is it possible to buy it from you still? Are you likely to reprint it anytime soon? If not, would you mind if I photocopied my friends copy and mailed you $70?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T05:29:47.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8133" CreationDate="2012-08-14T06:08:16.160" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it deals 1 damage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you see a card's own card name within the the rules text of a card, it isn't referring to all cards with that name. It is referring to itself. I believe at one point, the Oracle text replaced this self reference with &lt;strong&gt;~this~&lt;/strong&gt; (or perhaps, the database allowed searching using &amp;quot;this&amp;quot;). You can think of the triggered ability in that way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When [~this~] dies, you may have it deal 1 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it's on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were looking for abilities that would trigger multiple times, you need cards that trigger &amp;quot;Whenever a Goblin ...&amp;quot;. These cards only care about the creature subtype in question. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boggart%20Mob&quot;&gt;Boggart Mob&lt;/a&gt; - Whenever a Goblin you control deals combat damage to a player, you may put a 1/1 black Goblin Rogue creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boggart%20Shenanigans&quot;&gt;Boggart Shenanigans&lt;/a&gt;- Whenever another Goblin you control dies, you may have Boggart Shenanigans deal 1 damage to target player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two Shenanigans won't trigger off of themselves, because of the &lt;strong&gt;another&lt;/strong&gt;, but both will trigger when another Goblin permanent is sent to the graveyard from the battlefield. (Note: Boggart Shenanigans will do 1 damage twice, which is not the same thing as to deal 2 damage once.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T14:16:59.763" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T14:16:59.763" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2012-08-14T06:08:53.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played the base set but the biggest victories that I've seen were Military and 6 devs. Five 6 devs (especially the one that gives you points for each 6 dev) gave me 54 points. Military is nice to get some early windfalls out as noted above to trade off. I won today by playing Earth's Lost Colony (my starter), settling Destroyed World (an otherwise worthless one cost Rare windfall) and Tourist World. After I had those three out, I just produced/consumed and the game was over in 4 turns. Interested to see how expansions affect gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3176" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T06:08:53.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-14T06:32:35.763" Score="21" ViewCount="45941" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you ever play the game it's easy to conclude that blocks dimensions vary, otherwise the occurrence of loose blocks would be symmetric/regular when the tower initially built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I was unable to find any reference to that fact anywhere in internet (apart a vague mention in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs/academic/class/16741-s07/www/projects06/ziglar_jenga.pdf&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, the question. Are all blocks exactly equal, and if no, what are exact sizes? How many different sizes of blocks are used? And as importantly, how do you know this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T12:13:56.973" Title="Are all jenga blocks of exactly same size?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-14T13:27:44.840" Score="14" ViewCount="1301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last game, the situation arose where I scored a hit on a dreadnaught and played &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt;. My brother then quickly grabbed his &lt;code&gt;Emergency Repairs&lt;/code&gt; card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play: &quot;Immediately after the ship has been damaged in a Space Battle in which you participate.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Emergency Repairs&lt;/code&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play: &quot;At any time&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this resulted in an argument: &quot;&lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt; means that the hit was a kill shot so you can't do &lt;code&gt;Emergency Repair&lt;/code&gt;&quot; vs &quot;I repaired first, so you can't play &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After consulting the rules we found out that you always have to announce that you are going to play &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; card. Then other people can announce they also want to play &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; card. Then the cards are resolved in order of play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would have happened in our situation if both action cards had been announced? If either is played first, the other cannot be played any more. &#xA;Is the action card then discarded? Does it go back into the player's hand? Does the player have to reveal what it was? If not, can he just decide not to play it any more even though it would still be possible (i.e. to repair/direct hit another ship)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="117" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:15:19.633" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:15:19.633" Title="What happens if an action card makes another queued action card impossible?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2012-08-14T13:54:04.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that the block dimensions vary much, except because of manufacturing error. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jenga&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; page states that the blocks are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each block is three times as long as its width, and one fifth as thick as its length 1.5×2.5×7.5 cm (0.59×0.98×3.0 in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jenga.us.com/about.php&quot;&gt;official website&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A classic Jenga game consists of 54 &lt;strong&gt;precision-crafted, specially finished&lt;/strong&gt; hard wood blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disagree with your assertion that, &quot;blocks dimensions vary, otherwise the occurrence of loose blocks would be symmetric/regular when the tower initially built.&quot; If the dimensions were the same, but the weight varied, the weight would not be evenly distributed throughout the tower. That aside, you are probably correct that the blocks are not all exactly the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one size block is manufactured, but because machines that cut the wood have certain tolerances (probably in 10s or 100s of microns), you cannot get a perfect cut. Even if you could, the wood surface isn't flat anyway. The ridges of the grain are very deep, as can be seen in this scanning &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/search?q=wood%20electron%20micrograph&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;safe=off&amp;amp;client=safari&amp;amp;tbo=d&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=c1IqUM3_D8ePiALvs4CoCQ&amp;amp;ved=0CC0Q_AUoAQ&amp;amp;biw=1024&amp;amp;bih=690#&quot;&gt;electron microscope images&lt;/a&gt;. Finishing the wood would make some of these differences disappear, but even that wouldn't be perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T13:54:04.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8128" CreationDate="2012-08-14T14:15:52.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good mana base is required to have a good deck. The question is, how do you want people to achieve this? Either they play spells that're easy to cast or they have good fixing. Duals are fixing without an extra slot or tempo loss. Worse fixers either cost cards or tempo. Like the lands earlier suggested (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt;, Taplands, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shimmering%20Grotto&quot;&gt;Shimmering Grotto&lt;/a&gt; (ugh)) or with spells (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rampant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Rampant Growth&lt;/a&gt;, Artifacts, etc). This will make your meta slower/less powerful and will probably give you less variation and options of what to do with the options given to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a really subjective answer, as this is a matter of taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; want in a cube is the best cards possible.  I want to allow people to be creative and make powerful decks without having to worry too much about the mana. An aggro deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savannah%20Lions&quot;&gt;Savannah Lions&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kird%20Ape&quot;&gt;Kird Ape&lt;/a&gt;,  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Mongrel&quot;&gt;Wild Mongrel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hero%20of%20Bladehold&quot;&gt;Hero of Bladehold&lt;/a&gt;. Sure splash in your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Tax&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Balance&quot;&gt;Balance&lt;/a&gt; in your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pox&quot;&gt;Pox&lt;/a&gt;-deck. A lot of popular cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steppe%20Lynx&quot;&gt;Steppe Lynx&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterbalance&quot;&gt;Counterbalance&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; lose a lot of their power without fetch lands. And fetches are also good fixers, especially with a few duals, so those are my top priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if I had to buy all the cards to my cube from scratch, I wouldn't start spending it all on lands. I'd put in the good ones I had and start getting some fetches when I felt we had at pretty solid core of actual play cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A tip to ease the load on your wallet is to have a collaborative cube with some friends. You'll be surprised when you go through those old cards to see how many playables people are sitting on.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-15T15:51:03.163" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T15:51:03.163" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8066" CreationDate="2012-08-14T17:33:59.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Summary&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probability of losing in the first turn due to Fool's Landing sinking, assuming all players try their hardest to avoid it, is dependent on the difficultly level and the number of players &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Difficultly  | n | Probability&lt;/b&gt;&#xA;Novice       | 2 | 0.00199&#xA;Novice       | 3 | 0.00122&#xA;Novice       | 4 | 0.00071&#xA;Normal/Elite | 2 | 0.00291&#xA;Normal/Elite | 3 | 0.00179&#xA;Normal/Elite | 4 | 0.00103&#xA;Legendary    | 2 | 0.00296&#xA;Legendary    | 3 | 0.00182&#xA;Legendary    | 4 | 0.00105&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The computation of the values in this table was quite long, and an outline of the steps is given below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Calculation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have split the computation into four sections, based on the game stages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game setup&lt;/strong&gt; - Fool's Landing is initially flooded and no one was dealt a special action card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Player's Actions&lt;/strong&gt; - The first player is unable to shore up Fool's Landing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Player's Treasure Card Draw&lt;/strong&gt; - Waters Rise is drawn (and Sandbags is not).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Player's Flood Card Draw&lt;/strong&gt; - Waters Rise is drawn a second time and sinks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; The number of players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;v&lt;/strong&gt; The number of Waters Rise cards drawn at the end of the first turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;w&lt;/strong&gt; The water level after the first turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Game Setup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Fool's Landing drawn in first six cards) = 6/24&#xA;P(No sandbags or helicopters dealt) = (20 C (2n)) / (25 C (2n))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First Player's Actions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; be the first player's role:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(R = Pilot and can't shore up Fool's Landing) = 1/6 * 0 = 0&#xA;P(R = Diver and can't shore up Fool's Landing) = 1/6 * 4611612/18574248 = 384301/9287124&#xA;P(R = Explorer and can't shore up Fool's Landing) = 1/6 * 10/69 = 5/207&#xA;P(R in {Navigator, Messenger, Engineer} and can't shore up Fool's Landing) = 3/6 * 59/138 = 59/276&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So summing these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Can't shore up Fool's Landing) = 1945439/6965343&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First Player's Treasure Card Draw&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Fool's Landing to sink, one of the two drawn cards must be Waters Rise.  The other must not be a sandbags. I'm keeping these separate as the value of &lt;code&gt;v&lt;/code&gt; impacts the value of &lt;code&gt;w&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(v = 2 and no sandbags) = P(v = 2)&#xA;                         = 6 / ((28-2n)(27-2n))&#xA;P(v = 1 and no sandbags) = P(No sandbags | v = 1) * P(v = 1)&#xA;                         = (23-2n)/(25-2n) * 6(25-2n)/((28-2n)(27-2n))&#xA;                         = 6*(23-2n)/((28-2n)(27-2n))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;First Player's Flood Card Draw&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have now shuffled the six flood cards and put them back on top of the Flood Card Deck.  Note that &lt;code&gt;w&lt;/code&gt; can be derived from the difficulty and the value of &lt;code&gt;v&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Fool's Landing drawn at end of first player's turn) = w/6&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Result&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficultly level impacts &lt;code&gt;w&lt;/code&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Novice: &lt;code&gt;v=1 =&gt; w=2&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;v=2 =&gt; w=3&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Fool's Landing Sinks First Turn) = 6/24 * (20C(2n))/(25C(2n)) * 1945439/6965343 * (6*(23-2n)/((28-2n)(27-2n)) * 2/6 + 6/((28-2n)(27-2n)) * 3/6)&#xA; =  (20C(2n))/(25C(2n)) * 1945439/27861372 * (49-4n)/((28-2n)(27-2n))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Normal/Elite: &lt;code&gt;v=1 =&gt; w=3&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;v=2 =&gt; w=3&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Fool's Landing Sinks First Turn) = 6/24 * (20C(2n))/(25C(2n)) * 1945439/6965343 * (6*(23-2n)/((28-2n)(27-2n)) * 3/6 + 6/((28-2n)(27-2n)) * 3/6)&#xA; =  (20C(2n))/(25C(2n)) * 1945439/27861372 * (72-6n)/((28-2n)(27-2n))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Legendary: &lt;code&gt;v=1 =&gt; w=3&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;v=2 =&gt; w=4&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Fool's Landing Sinks First Turn) = 6/24 * (20C(2n))/(25C(2n)) * 1945439/6965343 * (6*(23-2n)/((28-2n)(27-2n)) * 3/6 + 6/((28-2n)(27-2n)) * 4/6)&#xA; =  (20C(2n))/(25C(2n)) * 1945439/27861372 * (73-6n)/((28-2n)(27-2n))&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, computing these formulae for different difficulty levels and number of players I ended up with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;b&gt;Difficultly  | n |           Probability&lt;/b&gt;&#xA;Novice       | 2 | 1355970983/682632941760  ≈ 0.00199&#xA;Novice       | 3 | 1223681131/999834661980  ≈ 0.00122&#xA;Novice       | 4 |  429942019/608770978200  ≈ 0.00071&#xA;Normal/Elite | 2 |   33072463/11377215696   ≈ 0.00291&#xA;Normal/Elite | 3 |   99217389/55546370110   ≈ 0.00179&#xA;Normal/Elite | 4 |  859884038/837060095025  ≈ 0.00103&#xA;Legendary    | 2 | 2017420243/682632941760  ≈ 0.00296&#xA;Legendary    | 3 |   33072463/18178812036   ≈ 0.00182&#xA;Legendary    | 4 | 3009594133/2869920325800 ≈ 0.00105&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T07:36:21.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8147" CreationDate="2012-08-14T17:57:00.523" Score="5" ViewCount="5049" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on running some booster draft tournaments, and want to make sure I am well supplied. The best case scenario is that each player takes 8 of one color and 8 of another color (assuming a typical 40% land spread). Realistically this doesn't happen, though. Sometimes there's more of one color than another in the draft packs. Some people go mono-color. Some people might be poor players and go with a color they don't have strong cards in (this is very common in red and green) which increases demand for that 'overloaded' color (while decreasing demand for another).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the 'best all around' would be 4 land per color per person. So for a 10 player draft I should have 40 land of each color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'worst case scenario' (while realistically impossible) would be 17 land of the same color for every person. So a 10 player draft would be 170 land of each color (since I don't know ahead of time which color will get 'overloaded' as such).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, &lt;strong&gt;For a magic booster draft of &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt; players, how many of each land should I have available to accommodate a reasonably likely scenario?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T18:03:54.230" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T21:12:28.133" Title="How many of each land do I need to support a draft tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2012-08-14T19:16:53.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a booster draft, generally a player has about 16-18 lands depending upon their card choices. So for a 10 person draft, you can assume around 160 - 180 lands in use at one time. However, because of the random nature of the cards in the pack you can't assume the distributions of the colors for each player, so you should probably assume that you need at a minimum 180/5 = 36 lands of each type. I wouldn't feel comfortable holding a draft unless I had 50 or so of each color, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next question you need to ask is if you are allowing the participants to keep their land or if they need to give it back. MTG players are kinda forgetful in giving back basic lands, so you should probably consider having as many lands as possible so that you don't run out as you hold multiple tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:16:53.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8145" CreationDate="2012-08-14T19:17:26.310" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing a green card ends the turn so do I attack the turn I play the Venemous Creeps, or the following turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1959" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T19:30:05.357" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:30:05.357" Title="When do I attack if complete my battle line with a card stolen by Venemous Creeps?" Tags="|chaos-marauders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8144" CreationDate="2012-08-14T19:26:11.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Venemous Creeps section of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/chaos-marauders/PDF/chaos-marauders-card-ref-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chaos Marauders card reference&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player completes a battle line with a stolen card, he may still&#xA;  attack an opponent’s battle line as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the normal rules apply, that is to say: &quot;As soon as a battle line has been completed, it can attack any opponent’s incomplete battle line&quot; [assuming the completed battle line is strong enough].  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, yes, you do attack on the current turn, not the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T19:26:11.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8148" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:01:06.403" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose, player got a part of &lt;code&gt;War Machine&lt;/code&gt; after attack. Could he discard nearest cards to place the machine in proper order, even if he have another rooms ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1959" LastEditorUserId="1959" LastEditDate="2012-08-14T21:06:29.597" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T02:37:38.280" Title="Could player discard nearest cards to place the part of `War Machine` in proper order?" Tags="|chaos-marauders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8142" CreationDate="2012-08-14T21:12:28.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little bored at work, so I coded up a simulation.&#xA;I assume that each of &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; participants picks 2 different colors, with slightly higher probabilities for choosing red or green (0.23) than blue/black/white (0.18) to account for the &quot;overloading possibility&quot;. I assume each person wants 8 lands of a chosen color. I ran this simulation 10,000 times, and took the 90% quantiles of the number of lands required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ran the above code for &lt;code&gt;n=5&lt;/code&gt; up to &lt;code&gt;n=30&lt;/code&gt;, which I figured covers your home-drafting range. Fitting linear models to the results (they do look linear, see below), gives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;red/green lands = 10.3 + 4.2 * n&#xA;blue/black/white lands = 10.4 + 3.5 * n,&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which for &lt;code&gt;n = 10&lt;/code&gt; is 52.3 each mountains and forests and 45.4 each of the others. Sounds pretty reasonable (like what @Affe says in the comments and @wpickett says in the answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumptions are bad in that each player's choices are independent--if 9 of 10 people pick blue, the 10th is still just as likely to pick blue too, but that's conservative, and somewhat makes up for the impossibility (in the model) of someone picking a mono-color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HukLd.png&quot; alt=&quot;land graph&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red dots are for red/green lands, blue dots are for blue/black/white lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-08-14T21:12:28.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8146" CreationDate="2012-08-15T02:37:38.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. You may only discard other cards if there are not enough open spaces.&lt;/strong&gt; From the Fantasy Flight &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/chaos-marauders/PDF/chaos-marauders-card-ref-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chaos Marauders - Card Reference&lt;/a&gt; (page 14), regarding taking War Machine parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... He must then place the cards in his own battle lines - If there are not enough open spaces, he must discard cards to make room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-15T02:37:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8154" CreationDate="2012-08-15T18:45:59.697" Score="6" ViewCount="3253" Body="&lt;p&gt;What sorts of containers have been found to be appropriate for storing large amounts of small cards?  For example, in Descent: Second Edition, There are 155 cards which must be stored, and which measure 41mm by 63mm.  Once they are sleeved (in &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/productdetails.cfm?sku=FFS01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;), they no longer fit in their little baggie;  is there some company that makes/sells boxes that fit these small cards?  Are there any commonly available containers that work well to fit these card sizes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:00:40.560" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:00:40.560" Title="Containers for decks of small cards?" Tags="|playing-cards|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8151" CreationDate="2012-08-16T05:19:14.027" Score="8" ViewCount="4813" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight I gained Diplomatic Sorcerers, two of the other 3 players were in decline so had no active race.  A reading of the rules implied to us that the Diplomatic power could not be used against those two players as they had no active race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T05:44:06.360" Title="Can the Diplomat power be used against a player without an active race?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8150" CreationDate="2012-08-16T05:19:14.027" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;We were wrong.&lt;/strong&gt;  Consulting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=17177&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day's of Wonder FAQ&lt;/a&gt; I learned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Is a race with the Diplomat power allowed to nominate a player, who has just declined or who has not yet had a turn (and therefore has no active race) as an ally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes indeed, the only restriction in the choice of an ally is that you cannot choose a player if you just attacked his active race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T05:19:14.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8150" CreationDate="2012-08-16T05:44:06.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years of playing MtG have made questions like this easier for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of your turn, you may select one opponent whose Active race you did not attack this turn as your ally. You are now at peace with him and he cannot attack your Active race until your next turn. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking this rule down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the end of your turn, select &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That opponent must not be someone whose Active race you attacked. (here is where you misread it. The rule isn't requiring that the opponent &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; an Active race, only that you did not attack their active race.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That opponent may not attack you until your next turn (Ghouls specifically excluded by the rules edited above)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T05:44:06.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2012-08-16T15:10:27.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Origins, run by Mayfair, prior to 2007 used to do 3 games and it was 1) wins 2) total points 3) &quot;Quality of Points,&quot; or your points as a fraction of the total points. After 2007, you played 4 games, randomly against opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top 16 would play in a 1-game playoff with the winner of each playing in the final.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4 games qualifying match was really grueling. I think most people qualified for the playoffs with 3 wins. There were occasionally 2 wins 37 points or 2 wins 36 points, but that was usually right on the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does cause some gaming of the system (for instance, some people would just deliberately take longest road and the 2 points to raise their score, knowing they would lose; some people would drop out midday after losing their first two or three matches; two friends, if one had been knocked out of contention, might be tempted to throw the game the guy still in contention).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me throw a wrench into the works. The top seed usually has a bull's eye on his/her forehead. Psychologically, people think that the person to beat is the guy with 4 wins or 3 wins/39 points or whatever. Say a person won the first three matches; should he or she still strive to win the fourth match or maybe stop around 5-6 points? That's part of the metagaming :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3181" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T15:10:27.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2012-08-16T15:50:17.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use those white cardboard boxes to hold large amounts of cards. They come in various sizes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000K3XQ8U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/BCW-Count--Corrugated-Cardboard-Storage/dp/B000K3XQ8U/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or I create my own boxes using plastic canvas. (sorry i do not have any better links for these at the moment) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crafts-for-all-seasons.com/plastic-canvas-box.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.crafts-for-all-seasons.com/plastic-canvas-box.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T15:50:17.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-16T18:25:11.007" Score="6" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game earlier today I encountered a deviation from the Magic Sword pattern that I haven't been able to find anywhere. Instead of cutting, White seemed to offer a peaceful trade of influence for territory (see the first diagram). I wonder if, as Black, I could have gotten a significantly better outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W 7 deviates from the usual Magic Sword&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .....b7c...-&#xA;$$ ...3.a251..-&#xA;$$ .......64..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I considered playing aggressively at &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;c&lt;/code&gt;, but couldn't find an outcome I was very happy with. (White had the upper left corner, and I had star point stones in both of the bottom corners.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cutting at &lt;code&gt;c&lt;/code&gt;, I found a way to get the corner, but it strengthened white on the top and also gave her a strong attack on the right. The double hane at &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt; looked more promising, but I couldn't find a way to kill the corner, and the result just looked like a complicated fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game I didn't cut and this is how things played out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Actual game&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ....42O....-&#xA;$$ 6..O31XOO..-&#xA;$$ .......XX..-&#xA;$$ .....5.....-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ .......7...-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White 6 seemed slow to me, and I'm surprised she didn't take the opportunity to play somewhere on the right to negate the wall; I was very happy to play at 7. If White had played 6 on the wide-open right side, I would have felt behind after the corner exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T17:17:40.083" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T17:17:40.083" Title="Magic Sword: Peaceful Variation or is Punishment Possible?" Tags="|go|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2012-08-16T18:37:58.443" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you count any guaranteed as 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left Bower = 1 (unless it is your only trump, then it is .5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AK of trump = .5 if protected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A of offsuit = .5 (maybe 1 if you are strong in trump and it is your only card of that suit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add them up, round down(or up if you are feeling lucky/desperate), and that is your bid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: it's been a while since I played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T18:37:58.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2012-08-16T19:33:21.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having not played this game, or played in the group you're playing, I can't give specifics, but I can talk a bit about my experiences with subterfuge in other contexts.  (poker is a classic for this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first, most important thing is that you need to have a story in mind that you want the other person to believe.  Simply saying no when you would normally say yes is an easy discontinuity to ferret out, especially when some of your other in-game behaviour doesn't match.  Check out some poker commentary; every now and then, they can tell almost exactly what the player is trying to represent, even though the cards are different.  If poker is too boring, check out stabby's team fortress 2 videos.  He also mentions what he meant for his targets to believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to keep track of what your recent visible actions have been.  If the story you'd like your targets to believe doesn't make any sense together with your history, it won't work.  Try to account for the other player's perspective.  Any knowledge helps.  In poker, if you're trying to represent an ace, you need to make sure your opponent doesn't have one already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your target has incentive to believe your story, it makes it easier.  Give them an angle for possibly double-crossing you.  Make them believe you are too far behind everyone and feel like being king-maker.  Give them a clear benefit in the deal with a small, obvious way that you 'plan' to take advantage, so they can think they're ready to defend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important thing, as has already been mentioned, is to not lie most of the time.  If the culture that you a playing in is about always being cut-throat, then you need to shake that up.  Give a few games away, act on impulse or emotion for a little while, but most importantly do this in such a way that it looks&amp;amp;sounds like your lies.  As a kid playing memory tile games, I'd often point out the correct tiles for the others and they'd think I was lying and go for something else.  You might have to be careful with this.  If you mess with the social contract too much, the game becomes frustrating for other players to the point they may decide they don't like playing with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, pay attention to the pace of the game.  If you make most of your decisions quickly or even flippantly, you need to match that speed with your lies.  The bonus with that is that the faster things are going, the smaller the misdirection has to be.  If the game is usually a slow, thoughtful process, you'll have to think through all of the details of your story before putting it out there for others.  In any case you need to be a lot quicker with your thought process when lying than during normal game-play, so it can often be helpful to slow down the game, think through a story, then discard the story and give the truth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that's helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2672" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T19:33:21.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8162" CreationDate="2012-08-16T21:12:54.077" Score="11" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Misthollow%20Griffin&quot;&gt;Misthollow Griffin&lt;/a&gt; can be cast from exile, if you somehow use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; to imprint the Misthollow Griffin and then cast Misthollow Griffin and remove it from exile, can you still make Misthollow Griffin tokens via Mimic Vat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T22:51:10.130" LastActivityDate="2022-12-23T20:39:32.057" Title="Mimic Vat and Misthollow Griffin" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-08-16T21:54:40.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Misthollow Griffin leaves the exile zone, you cease to be able to make &quot;a copy of the exiled card&quot;, as it no longer counts as &quot;the exiled card&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not actually the fact of having been exiled at some point that makes a card an &quot;exiled card&quot;, it's the fact of being in the exile zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd make an analogy of this with, let's say, an Aura that &quot;enchants a green creature&quot;. If the creature later ceases to be green, the enchantment ceases to be valid. Likewise, with Mimic Vat, if the exiled card ceases to be exiled, it has broken the terms of the agreement (as it were) and is no longer copiable by the Vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T22:00:27.553" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T22:00:27.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-08-16T22:26:45.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you cannot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any imprint cards, the ability related to the imprinted card is only available as long as the imprinted card does not change zone, otherwise the game loses track of the relationship between &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207883&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;3 - Artifact - Imprint — Whenever a nontoken creature dies, you may exile that card. If you do, return each other card exiled with Mimic Vat to its owner's graveyard. 3,T : Put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of the exiled card. It gains haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step.&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; and the imprinted card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=47446&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;0 - Artifact - Imprint — When Chrome Mox enters the battlefield, you may exile a nonartifact, nonland card from your hand.- T: Add one mana of any of the exiled card's colors to your mana pool.&quot;&gt;Chrome Mox&lt;/a&gt; would not produce mana if the imprinted card leaves the exile zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="1150" LastEditDate="2012-08-16T22:37:08.347" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T22:37:08.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2012-08-16T22:53:08.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a lot of board games, with the same group, and people know that I am a lier (in game I mean !) and that I will backstab them if this makes me win the game. They also have the habit to target me as first priority in conquest games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nethertheless, I still manage to convince them at key points to believe me and to make choices that actually help me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the reason is I almost never actually tell a lie, and I almost always believe in what I say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the things that could help :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have the habit of explaining &lt;strong&gt;why&lt;/strong&gt; I do something or why someone should do something. I always give good, true reasons here. I also know the rules really well, so people get in the habit of listening and trusting what I say.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when I want to manipulate someone into a move, I don't even do it deliberately. I start as usual to explain why it would be good to him or to both of us to do this or that. I just fail to underline that it gives me a good opportunity to backstab in a few moves (it must not be obvious)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;another key point is believing what you are saying and so avoid lying. Lying by omission is much more difficult to detect ! For games with hidden victory points like Dominion or Small World, you can highlight the recent turns in which some opponents have gained a lot (and forget to remind them it was your turn earlier in the game).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For instance, in a 2 player game (magic the gathering), I was able in a tournament to make someone forfeit a game he should have won on the spot, simply by pointing to one of my cards in play and basically saying, this counters your strategy right ? It was true, except I forgot to mention that I wasn't allowed to play this card at this precise moment so he should have won. And I almost believed I could use it at this point so he also believed me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastActivityDate="2012-08-16T22:53:08.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8158" CreationDate="2012-08-17T00:34:51.883" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. The exiled card has ceased to be in exile, so the activated ability will be unable to find it when it resolves. Misthollow Griffin isn't even required for this question, since&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; itself is constantly exiling creatures, and then returning those cards to their owners graveyard. You can no longer make copies of cards that were returned to their owners graveyards, neither can you copy Misthollow Griffin if it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; contains linked abilities. The first triggered ability exiles cards when they die (technically, these do not have to be creature cards, they only need to be creatures when they die). The second activated ability returns a token copy of the card to the battlefield until the beginning of the next end step. There are some unusual corner cases where it is important to know which ability was responsible for exiling a particular card, if some card gains multiple exile abilities, since only the abilities that are linked are able to refer to the cards exiled in that way. (&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The CR give an interesting example with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Elemental&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arc-Slogger&quot;&gt;Arc-Slogger&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sisters%20of%20Stone%20Death&quot;&gt;Sisters of Stone Death&lt;/a&gt; that I won't review here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;607.2a If an object has an activated or triggered ability printed on it that instructs a player to exile one or more cards and an ability printed on it that refers either to “the exiled cards” or to cards “exiled with [this object],” these abilities are linked. &lt;strong&gt;The second ability refers only to cards in the exile zone&lt;/strong&gt; that were put there as a result of an instruction to exile them in the first ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;406.5. An object may have one ability printed on it that causes one or more cards to be exiled, and another ability that refers either to “the exiled cards” or to cards “exiled with [this object].” These abilities are linked: the second refers only to cards that have been exiled due to the first. See rule 607, “Linked Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what happens if the card is no longer in exile (or is exiled again by some other effect)? &lt;strong&gt;It becomes a new object&lt;/strong&gt;, with no relation to it's precious existence. What this means is that Mimic Vat cannot &lt;strong&gt;find&lt;/strong&gt; the card that was exiled, and therefore cannot copy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: ... (&lt;strong&gt;seven exceptions&lt;/strong&gt; removed for brevity, none apply)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;406.6. If an object in the exile zone becomes exiled, it doesn’t change zones, but it becomes a new object that has just been exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T14:04:56.843" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T14:04:56.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8124" CreationDate="2012-08-17T12:05:34.873" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copyright concerns aside, I can help with the printing. I recently made a 100-card game (actually a Fluxx variant) like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I printed out the cards in sheets of nine cards (onto standard A4 paper), then chopped them out with scissors. This might take a while if you've got too many, but 80 should be OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make them more sturdy, I bought 100 penny-sleeves and got a bunch of old, unwanted Magic cards (try your FLGS or CCG-playing friends if you have none). I simply placed the printed cards (on paper) into a sleeve with a Magic card to make it firm and less vulnerable to breaking while shuffling/dealing/etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card-backs are significant (they weren't for me), you could print them out too and place them in the other side of the sleeve, but honestly that sounds like a lot of work. For instance, if there are two types of card, you could put some Magic cards in backwards, or use different CCGs, or different colours of Magic card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not particularly high-quality, but considering the cost is the cost of printing a dozen sheets of paper and about a quid for the sleeves, it's prototype-gaming on a budget!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T12:05:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8155" CreationDate="2012-08-17T19:18:58.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If White plays 7 before 6, you'd probably counterpincer one or two spaces below. Then take 6.&#xA;In playing as she did, she was adopting a &quot;live and let live&quot; policy, instead of  heading for complications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the wisdom of this policy depends on what you have below 7 and what White has left of 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T19:18:58.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8099" CreationDate="2012-08-17T19:27:23.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should bid as low as possible to leave bidding room for opener. That suggests that 1 diamond is the best response in the first hand (unless it is artificial but forced and shows a &quot;bust&quot; as some players bid), 1 spade is a close second best, and TWO clubs is the worst, because it &quot;jumps&quot; the bidding when opener may have only a three card suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some partnerships give preference to the majors and say that you should respond one spade with ANY four carder, even 5432. If partner has a four card spade suit, say, KJ76, s/he'll want to play in spades with a 4-4 (eight card) fit. Worst case, it will be 9876, but to have the &quot;worst&quot; four cards on both sides is pretty rare. With a 3-card spade suit and a 3-card club suit, partner may call 1NT to your 1 diamond or 1 spade bid, which your 2 club response precluded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second hand, the lowest reasonable response is 1 heart, four card major. Again, even with 5432. If the opener has four hearts s/he'll raise hearts, with four spades, bid one spade; with 3 spades, 3 hearts, 4 diamonds, 3 clubs, s/he'll bid 1NT. But you're bidding 1NT takes most of these options away from partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-08-17T19:33:15.640" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T19:33:15.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8167" CreationDate="2012-08-17T19:58:01.190" Score="9" ViewCount="851" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that when I start with the windfall world Alpha Centauri, I always open Consume-Trade. If my hand is good, I probably want cards to pay for settling and development. If not, I need more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that ever not the right opening?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3182" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T20:36:43.323" Title="Is Consume-Trade on Alpha Centauri always a good start?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2012-08-17T20:36:09.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consume/trade is always a safe opening play with Alpha Centauri.  It's never going to be a bad thing to do.  More generally, trading when your hand won't overflow and you have a worthwhile good is often a solid play, regardless of whether it's the first turn.  But here are some situations in which you might want to delay the first turn trade as Alpha Centauri.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a development that will let you place a military world and have no otherwise settleable worlds, you might want to call develop so you don't miss the settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a pair of cheap worlds to settle in a two player advanced game, you might want to call settle/settle to try and get the worlds down and catch your opponents off guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the first expansion, there is a goal worth 5 points that requires having the most developments, and there is also a new start world (Ancient Race) that starts with only 3 cards.  You might want to call a first turn develop to put card pressure on Ancient Race, so you can get ahead or make them flush their hand to keep up in the development race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T20:36:09.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8166" CreationDate="2012-08-17T20:36:43.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with this strategy. Points to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you Trade on Turn 1, you can produce on Turn 2 without likely helping anyone much (except for Earth's Last Colony.) Many players won't have production worlds on the table yet.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you do this, you'll have 7 cards on Turn 2 (more if someone explores) this gives you the resources to drop that phat &lt;em&gt;Galactic Federation&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Merchant League&lt;/em&gt;, or similar early!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-08-17T20:36:43.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-18T04:45:22.177" Score="6" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state: &lt;em&gt;&quot;In each round, the Solo player can use exactly one of the Special actions shown on the face-up card.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, can this be done in addition to placing each of my family members?  Or is it just like the 2+ player rules where you can either place a family member, or take a special action?  I just got the game and am not clear on this point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T06:35:53.157" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T06:35:53.157" Title="In solo play, can you play one Special Action every round in addition to placing family?" Tags="|agricola|agricola-farmers-of-the-moor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-18T05:44:33.807" Score="7" ViewCount="463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I purchase a Major Improvement card that is underneath another Major Improvement without first having to buy the top improvement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3184" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T06:15:52.237" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T06:39:48.787" Title="Can I buy an &quot;underneath&quot; Major Improvement without paying for the top one first?" Tags="|agricola|agricola-farmers-of-the-moor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8170" CreationDate="2012-08-18T06:05:04.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you have to buy the Major improvement that is above first. This isn't explicitly defined, but it is implied on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/agricola/Of%20the%20Moor/OftheMoor_Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;p.2 of the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An advantage of placing 12 of the 14 new Major Improvements underneath others at the start of the game is that the use of the cards does not need to be explained in detail at the start of the game. The only two new Major Improvements that need to be explained are the Peat-charcoal Kiln and the Forester's Lodge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also Minor Improvements which change the order of the stacking, again implying that the order is significant. For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://juegosmontt.info/PDF/agricola-comp-v8.0.pdf&quot;&gt;Pastoral Letter&lt;/a&gt; (p.30):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Well has not yet been built, you can immediately place it under the Village Church. &lt;em&gt;(The Well and the Village Church swap places.)&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, this is confirmed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/559447/major-improvement-top-left-note-means&quot;&gt;in a response&lt;/a&gt; on BGG by &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/427/hanno-girke&quot;&gt;Hanno Girke&lt;/a&gt;, a game designer who founded Lookout Games along with Uwe Rosenburg (designer of Agricola):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Major Improvements are now stacked. There are 12 stacks of 2 cards&#xA;  each. Only after the top card is bought, the other card is revealed&#xA;  and available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-18T06:39:48.787" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T06:39:48.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8169" CreationDate="2012-08-18T06:27:38.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;During your round, you must play all your people, one at a time, and you may also use one Special Action from the current face-up Special Action card. So you perform the following loop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each round:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have people still in your house:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a family member &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play your Special Action &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you haven't played it yet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you choose to play the Special Action instead of a playing a family member. In multi-player, this distinction is important, because if you take the Special Action, someone else could respond by taking a key resource or board Action that you also wanted. In solo play, this doesn't matter, because no one is going to deny you any space on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, in neither the solo or multi-player rules do Special Actions stop you from subsequently using a family member. You can still play a Special Action, and use all your people. It's just that you can only do one at a time, and then each other player gets a go, where they may play a family member or Special Action, and so on. The rules on p.3 are quite clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a distinction between a Person Action and a Special Action. To take a Person Action, place one Person marker on the game board. Instead of taking a Person Action, a player can take a Special Action card and carry out at most one of the Special Actions that are described on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This player's Person markers remain in her home, to be used for additional Actions later in the Round.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-18T06:34:07.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8177" CreationDate="2012-08-18T20:37:39.997" Score="10" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I buy a Farmland, trashing a card from my hand and gaining one costing up to 2 more, but then reveal Trader, and gain a Silver instead of the Farmland?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always think of the &quot;buy&quot; operation as containing a &quot;gain&quot; operation, so any cards that trigger on gain also trigger on buy, but not vice-versa.  However, when does the &quot;gain&quot; reaction actually occur?  Is it after you have already resolved the &quot;buy&quot; reactions or operations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A follow-up question is this:  because I converted the Farmland to a Silver, can I still put my Treasury cards back on my deck at the end of this turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I predict that the &quot;correct&quot; answer is going to look like the following algorithm, but I'm not 100% on this, hence my question here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You &quot;buy&quot; a Farmland.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That triggers any &quot;buy&quot; reactions or actions on the card, using Farmland, (e.g. you can trash a Gold from your hand and gain a Province)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Farmland to the set of cards you &quot;bought this turn&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You then &quot;gain&quot; the Farmland.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You reveal Trader, and gain a Silver instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That triggers any &quot;gain&quot; reactions, using Silver (e.g. Watchtower, to put the Silver on deck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Note, this does not trigger any gain reactions using the Farmland, e.g. imagine a new reaction card like Fool's Gold, except it triggers whenever anyone gains a victory card)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add Silver to the set of cards you &quot;gained this turn&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On cleanup, you cannot put your Treasury on deck, because the &quot;cards bought this turn&quot; includes a Farmland, which is indeed a victory card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next player will be able gain Silver via Smugglers because the &quot;cards you gained last turn&quot; includes a Silver, but it does not include a Farmland, so they will not be able to gain a Farmland via Smugglers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3185" LastEditorUserId="3185" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T04:46:49.813" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T16:56:32.043" Title="Can you use Trader to gain a Silver instead of a Farmland, but still get the buy side-effects of Farmland?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8173" CreationDate="2012-08-18T21:41:12.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works, it is explicitly called out in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_396_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Hinterlands rules&lt;/a&gt; for the Trader card (page 11)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example you can buy Farmland, trash a card from your hand and gain one costing 2 more, then use Trader to gain Silver rather than Farmland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T16:56:32.043" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T16:56:32.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8206" CreationDate="2012-08-19T22:28:33.977" Score="3" ViewCount="1084" Body="&lt;p&gt;South opened one diamond. West doubled for takeout with the following hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;s) Axxx (H) Kxx (D) Kxx (C) Qxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North redoubled. This took me (East) off the hook with something like s) xxx (H) xxx (D) xxx (C) xxxx. I could pass, because the redouble allowed West to bid again. She bid one spade, we were doubled, vulnerable, and went down four (-1100).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could she have left in the redouble by passing? One diamond redoubled does not make game, although it makes a ton of overtricks. Even so, would the likely loss have been less than -1100 or even -800?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or was the problem with the takeout double in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T14:34:29.087" Title="Can a takeout doubler pass a redoubled contract?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8173" CreationDate="2012-08-20T00:19:38.163" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;On buy effects are resolved before on gain effects. So, you would buy the Farmland and follow it's on-buy effect of trashing a card, etc. Then, you are going to gain the Farmland. At this point, you can reveal the Trader to gain the Silver instead of the Farmland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your algorithm is correct, and your assumptions about Smugglers and Treasury are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T00:19:38.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8176" CreationDate="2012-08-20T10:09:19.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's anything wrong with attempting to bid one's &quot;best&quot; (least worst in this cae) suit after one's takeout double is redoubled.  It was unfortunate that this resulted in a terrible contract, but this is Bridge, bad breaks can and do happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the question is whether West was sensible to opt for a takeout double at unfavourable vulnerability. Again, I'd say that while the risks are obvious if East turns out to be holding nothing, 12 points including an ace is not obviously a terrible hand to try one's luck with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as West was aware of the risks, just accept that things went tragically wrong and move on.  After all, the alternative is to risk an irate partner (in a parallel universe, holding much better cards) demanding in the autopsy &quot;why on earth didn't you make a takeout double on that textbook hand?!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T10:09:19.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8176" CreationDate="2012-08-20T10:37:49.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The takeout double looks reasonable - enough points and support for the other 3 suits. It does of course depend on what you've agreed in your bidding system, some systems would require a shortage of the doubled suit (2 or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as leaving it in one diamond redoubled vs bidding one spade, with the information your partner has to go on it's impossible to say for certain which will lose you more points. I'd definitely go with one spade if your opponents are vulnerable and probably pass if they're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T10:37:49.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7949" CreationDate="2012-08-20T10:47:05.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play mostly Standard Constructed and my observations for it are such that the highest return rate boosters are the ones from the oldest block set that is currently in standard, which is the case up until before a new block is released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example once the Innistrad block came out the most return rate would be in the Scars of Mirrodin boosters e.g. the dual lands shot up in price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would not apply for non-standard players. As mentioned above Zendikar is absolutely very expensive because of the full artwork lands and the fetches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3192" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T10:47:05.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8184" CreationDate="2012-08-20T10:52:56.273" Score="6" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of Small World we were playing recently, we were facing Seafaring Sorcerers in a 5-player game, and they managed to expand &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well, to the point where they were rapidly converting over most of the map. At one point, the player ran out of tokens to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What Happens in This Case?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does their expansion halt completely? And if a sorcerer is killed, can they then re-use that token for conversion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T13:25:40.610" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T13:25:40.610" Title="What Happens If The Sorcerers Run Out of Tokens?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8183" CreationDate="2012-08-20T11:00:14.920" Score="12" ViewCount="2234" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Cunning Rules Lawyer pointed out that, while the rules for Sorcerers say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn per opponent, your Sorcerers&#xA;  can conquer a Region by substituting one of&#xA;  your opponent's Active tokens with one of&#xA;  your own taken from the storage tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't 100% clear if, when you're playing a four player game, you can convert four regions of the same opponent, or if &quot;once per opponent&quot; means you have to target a different opponent each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does once per turn per opponent mean that you have to target a different opponent each time, or just that you have as many conversions as opponents?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T13:27:48.173" LastActivityDate="2019-08-27T15:32:03.390" Title="Can Sorcerers convert two units from the same Tribe in one turn?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8182" CreationDate="2012-08-20T11:49:16.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like this is clarified by Antoine from Days of Wonder in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/3230688#3230688&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;.  You may only use it once against a given opponent in a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T11:49:16.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8181" CreationDate="2012-08-20T11:52:14.647" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules address that specific case in the section on picking a race (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, a Special Power (or Race power) lets you take&#xA;  additional Race tokens from the storage tray during the course of the&#xA;  game, you are still limited by the total number of tokens physically&#xA;  available. So a player with 18 Sorcerer tokens on the board won't be&#xA;  able to use his Sorcerer power again until some of his tokens become&#xA;  available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T11:52:14.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8188" CreationDate="2012-08-20T13:18:22.557" Score="6" ViewCount="2569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused about how to use spells effectively in Elder Sign. I understand that you play the spell before a task roll and then you can set aside as many dice as the spell has icons, whether you succeed or fail at the task. When is the best time to use a spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it mandatory to place dice on a spell once you've used it? Do I &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to place a die even if it doesn't help me on the task in any way? If you don't get any icons that help with the task, then it seems like you are 'locking' a die, which is a big disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-08-20T13:29:26.140" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T16:07:17.703" Title="Using Spells Effectively in Elder Sign" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9302" CreationDate="2012-08-20T13:23:55.293" Score="12" ViewCount="9788" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a list (formal or informal) of how difficult each Ancient One is in Elder Sign? Clearly, some of them have powerful static abilities (like Cthulhu) and some of them have attacks with the potential to devour investigators. I'm interested in a rough guide of each Ancient One and whether they're easy, moderate or hard difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considerations for Ranking Ancient Ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many Elder Sign tokens are needed to banish them versus how many Doom tokens are required before they awaken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How difficult their tasks to remove Doom tokens are. Count investigations as more difficult than other symbols (peril, terror, lore) and multiples of a given icon as being more difficult than a single icon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T09:20:13.587" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T09:20:13.587" Title="Difficulty Ranking of the Ancient Ones in Elder Sign?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2012-08-20T14:35:45.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having played this for the last year and normally on a bi-weekly basis if not more, I can atest there is a lot of strategy.  But at the same time there is still the luck factor based on what is in each set, your leaders, and the board chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength of group and knowledge of the game is by far the biggest factor in the game.  If you know what your doing more points are available to you.  As another pointed out Military is a solid 21 point difference on both sides of you if you win it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time you have to assess what is going to help out your opponents, and I've come to the conclusion that unless your pure feeding your opponent everything that is worth points while not making any yourself, its more focusing on your own goals than opponents.  Then again my group is more of a competitive fun than anything else, as if we were a bit more hardcore I think our games would be quite a bit different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3193" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T14:35:45.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8185" CreationDate="2012-08-20T16:07:17.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way spells function was actually amended in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Errata&lt;/a&gt; and subsequent mobile game, such that spells are instead cast &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; a player's roll - so you cast them only when you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Full text from the errata:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells that hold dice are cast after a player’s roll, not before. The player looks at the roll, then, if he wishes to save a particular die, casts the spell and places the die on the spell. The ‘held’ die remains on the spell card until used to complete a task or until removed (as described below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Dice may have their results modified by items/abilities before being placed on a spell, but not afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Before any roll, a player may remove some or all of the dice held on spells in order to roll them. Any spell that has no dice remaining on it is discarded. New dice cannot be added to a spell to replace those that were removed from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• If a die becomes locked while it is on a spell, the die is removed from the spell and locked. If the spell has no dice remaining on it, the spell is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3132" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-20T16:07:17.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-20T06:44:54.487" Score="0" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will the Star Wars Living Card Game have Force power cards, like Force lightning and Force push?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Donmax" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-21T17:38:17.717" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T17:38:17.717" Title="Will the Star Wars LCG game have Force power cards?" Tags="|star-wars-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-21T11:28:15.140" Score="11" ViewCount="7596" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been playing Bridge for a couple of years now. Have improved in bidding, strategy and other stuff. But one place where there is no improvement is counting and visualising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At best, I can keep track and visualise trumps in opp hands. Becomes very difficult to do any more than that. If I try anything else - i.e. tracking/counting a 2nd suit, visualising opponents hands etc, I lose even the trump count. Basically, my mind just can't visualise and juggle these things. I have tried all standard ways to improve. But of no avail. Anyone have any radical methods to help with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for people for who this didn't come easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T01:40:32.627" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T19:38:48.083" Title="Bridge - Counting and Visualising" Tags="|bridge|counting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8192" CreationDate="2012-08-21T12:46:16.110" Score="2" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Seasons, after you have selected cards for all 3 years, can you take a look at cards from future years to plan which energy to take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:47:25.053" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:47:25.053" Title="Can you peek at your cards from future years in Seasons?" Tags="|seasons|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8191" CreationDate="2012-08-21T13:09:50.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook section II - Constructing your deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the nine power cards chosen, each player should assemble three&#xA;sets  of three cards each. The first set immediately forms the&#xA;player’s hand, as it  corresponds to the cards with which the players&#xA;will begin their tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second set is placed under the&#xA;Library II token and will be added to  the player’s hand during the&#xA;second year of  the tournament. As for the third set of power  cards,&#xA;it is placed under the Library III token  and will be added to the&#xA;player’s hand during  the third and final year of the tournament. &lt;strong&gt;At&#xA;any point during the game, players can look  at the power cards&#xA;they’ve selected.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.  Assuming I've understood your question correctly, there is no bar to looking at your cards for year two and year three to remind yourself what they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T13:09:50.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8189" CreationDate="2012-08-21T13:47:17.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW-yEwnb0ws&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;demo at GenCon 2012&lt;/a&gt; featured at least &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9867680#9867680&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3 force power cards&lt;/a&gt;, Force Lightning, Force Choke, and Force Rejuvination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T13:47:17.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-21T17:48:55.793" Score="2" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends play a game they call &quot;Ben and Mabel&quot;. I believe they learned it from their Dutch brother-in-law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my memory of playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play with multiple decks mixed together. Maybe two or three. Jokers included (they're wild).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with three cards. You play 13 rounds; in each subsequent round, your hand grows by one card. Each turn you draw a card and discard a card. You can draw from the face-up discard pile or the face-down pile. You play melds of runs in the same suit or groups of three of a kind or more. If you are initially dealt three cards, threes and are wild. If you are dealt four cards, fours and jokers are wild. Eight cards, eights and jokers are wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round one is easy because there's only three cards. Round five is the hardest because you have to get five of a kind (wilds OK) or a run of five in the same suit. Once the rounds get big it gets easier too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some scoring involved at the end once someone goes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sound familiar? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the &quot;real&quot; name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3199" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T04:37:02.890" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T04:37:02.890" Title="Ben and Mabel (Mable) cardgame? What's the &quot;real&quot; name?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8194" CreationDate="2012-08-21T18:06:09.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a form of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/index.html#contract&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Contract Rummy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dozens of variations of Contract Rummy which have different rules of how many and what size of sets and sequences are required in each successive round. In my brief overview of different variations on pagat.com, I didn't find an exact match to the clues you've given, I suggest you have a look there and try different contracts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T18:06:09.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8194" CreationDate="2012-08-21T18:28:54.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a commercial version of the game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1472/five-crowns&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Five Crowns&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.  It is played with a custom deck that has 5 suits, each of which contain 2 of each card from 3-K, plus some jokers.  Otherwise the rules sound identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T18:28:54.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8200" CreationDate="2012-08-21T22:43:19.883" Score="8" ViewCount="6095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turkey is fairly easy to play in an alliance with Russia (the &quot;juggernaut&quot;). The two of them partition the Balkans and Austria-Hungary, possibly with the help of Italy. Then they go their separate ways with Russia fighting Germany and/or England, while an enlarged Turkey crushes Italy. They need to come to an agreement about the Black Sea, but as long as Turkey builds mainly fleets and Russia mainly armies, they're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A problem seems to arise if Turkey allies with say, Austria-Hungary against Russia. Turkey can get control of the Black Sea and Sevastopol (maybe Rumania). But it needs fleets to cover these areas, and its navy seems to be stretched out between these areas and the Mediterranean. If it tries to move north, it will likely be &quot;capped by whoever (Germany or Britain) has captured Moscow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turkey's next natural target seems to be Italy (another naval power), except that it is vulnerable to a counterblow by land from Austria-Hungary in the Balkans. And if Austria-Hungary builds mainly armies, the combined Turkish and Italian land forces might have difficulty reconquering the Balkans even if they were allied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how would Turkey avoid getting &quot;boxed in,&quot; absent an alliance with Russia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:12:30.253" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T21:44:17.843" Title="In Diplomacy, will I be &quot;cornered&quot; as Turkey if I don't use the &quot;juggernaut&quot; opening?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2012-08-21T22:49:11.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Counting trumps is a good start. If at least one of the opponents has bid a suit, you can count him/her for at least five of them (except for a short minor). By looking and your holdings and dummy in this suit, you can get and idea of what the fourth person has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing is that if one opponent has bid/overcalled and you are in game (less so in a part score), you can expect the bidding opponent to have most of the outstanding honors. This is particularly true if non-bidding opponent has played an honor or two early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if neither opponent has bid, you can expect outstanding honors to be SPLIT, meaning that if one opponent plays a bunch of honors early, the other probably has the remainder. And probably neither opponent has a six card suit, and possibly not a five card suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-21T22:49:11.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2012-08-21T23:01:33.727" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many books written on this subject; Ron Klinger's 'Improve Your Bridge Memory' was the one I used, but I imagine your public library or bridge club will have a selection.  The problem is that nobody but yourself knows what methods work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two examples from Klinger, one easy and one harder; you don't need to count how many of your own trumps (or other important suit) have gone, so long as you pause at the beginning of the hand, say to yourself 'I have four trumps and dummy has three; that means they have six between them', and then count each time one of the six is played.  And secondly, always try to make up a mnemonic for a principle: playing Roman Blackwood, 5H shows two aces the same colour, 5S either two major-suit or two minor-suit aces, and 5NT two either hearts and clubs or spades and diamonds. That's hard to remember, but if you think of clubs and hearts as both a rounded shape, and remember C for colour, RA for rank and SH for shape, C-RA-SH should be enough to remind you what your response should be. (You make up your own mnemonics based on what helps you to remember, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I found the second tip useful and the first counter-productive; but only you can tell what will work for you, and only after hard work both in finding methods and in practising.  (Don't believe anyone who says 'it just comes naturally'; usually they have been playing for thirty years, and have forgotten how long it took before it all came together.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I gather the real problem is remembering everything at once. In that case, try to build up your memory gradually, and try to separate the problems. So don't try to remember the exact probability of every possible distribution, start with '3-1 is 50%, while 3-2 is 60%'; you can add more, and refine the numbers, as you get better.  And having made your plan based on the assumption that trumps will split 2-2, you don't need to remember why you came to that conclusion, just to count how many have shown up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-08-22T11:46:16.060" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T11:46:16.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8197" CreationDate="2012-08-22T03:14:23.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the answer to the question literally posed in the title is yes. You can be boxed in, but this will not necessarily happen. Hey, even if you do ally with Russia, Austria and Italy can put up an effective blockade keeping you in the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is certainly a viable strategy with significant growth opportunities to ally with either Austria or Italy. (Maybe you really should be asking Don Scheifler and not me, since he soloed as Turkey off the back of an Austrian-Turkish alliance at the recent World Championships).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key, as always, is to try to keep your growth paths open while keeping your allies busy so that they can't afford to stab you. Of course the other six players are trying to do the same thing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To look at the particular senario you bring up of an alliance with Austria. OK so you've got the Russian neutralised and say picked up SEV in the process (which is a great longterm gain), then barring western intervention (and this is the key), you and Austria are favourites to roll through Italy. Yes a stab is a risk, but this is the case in any alliance. Arguably an Austrian stab is less likely to be devastating than a Russian stab, since under normal circumstances Turkish home centres can't be taken without fleet power which Austria is unlikely to posess. Just keep your ally busy and then they won't have the units free to stab you (or you could be the stabber).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T03:14:23.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-22T14:07:03.677" Score="7" ViewCount="2087" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, if I try to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Army%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Army of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; to stop it, can I still cast Army of the Damned from the graveyard for it's Flashback cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3202" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-04T15:17:12.870" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:40:10.303" Title="Can I play a card using flashback without it having been successfully cast first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8201" CreationDate="2012-08-22T14:14:25.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Flashback simply lets you cast the spell from your graveyard, it does not matter how the spell got there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T14:14:25.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8201" CreationDate="2012-08-22T14:30:39.577" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. The only requirements for &lt;strong&gt;Flashback&lt;/strong&gt; are that the card is in your Graveyard, you are able to pay the alternate Flashback cost, and you are capable of casting the Flashback spell at that particular time (you have priority, if the Flashback spell is a Sorcery then it is you turn's first or second Main Phase and the stack is empty, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that if your opponent &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;s your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Army%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Army of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; spell, that you must wait until Cancel to resolve before your spell will be in the graveyard. If it was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissipate&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt;d, it would never hit the graveyard at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.33a Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player’s graveyard and the other that functions while the card is on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;“Flashback [cost]” means “You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;” and “If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.” Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:40:10.303" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:40:10.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5548" CreationDate="2012-08-22T17:01:32.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;slow&quot; connection on A2 is actually the biggest move. That's because it protects the cut at c2, as well as the stone on a3 from capture. And it threatens a big sequence starting with a4, meaning that White is forced to play a4, and Black has the next move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compared with the diagrams above, Black is two points better, and White is one point better, for a net gain of one point for Black, who keeps sente.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a close game, if one person gets to make 5-10 one-point moves in sente, that's enough to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the above sequence is better than Black's pushing out at a4, getting cut by a2, and having to capture on a1 AND go back to prevent the cut at c2. Even if it were a point more than the sequence above, it would be gote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T17:01:32.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8155" CreationDate="2012-08-22T19:59:35.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the 3-4 exchange is damezumari, and should be left unplayed, If w doesn't protect, b can later cut at 4, then at c...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3205" LastActivityDate="2012-08-22T19:59:35.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8176" CreationDate="2012-08-23T05:44:16.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1D redoubled making 4 is 830 non-vul and 1430 vul according to this (excellent) calculator: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/xsc1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rpbridge.net/xsc1.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Redoubled overtricks count!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner should bid 1S. 1S double going down 4 with a probable 4-3 or better fit (LHO or RHO both didn't mention spades) and two Kings seems quite unlikely, and that is against opponents for whom double of 1S will be for penalties. It is probably more useful to play 1S double (by LHO) in this situation for something else (LHO cannot have a trump stack), in which case, you have even more reason to bid 1S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case I would say the problem is with making the takeout double in the first place. (Of course it depends on partnership style and form of scoring, but the below can probably found in most textbooks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rule of thumb regarding takeout doubles: With a 12-14 hand balanced hand, you should avoid making a takeout double. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you have a really flat hand, 4-3-3-3, with three cards in the takeout suit. Your hand is defensively oriented with likely 3 defensive tricks in your own hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make a takeout double and partner jumps to the three level in your 3 card suit you will likely go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to pass with 12-14 defensive oriented flat hands is that if you have a game, LHO will likely pass and partner will get a chance to reopen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to answer the question in the title, sure, a redoubled contract by the takeout doubler can be passed, but it is probably a bad bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T14:34:29.087" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T14:34:29.087" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2012-08-23T05:55:20.707" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torpor%20Orb&quot;&gt;Torpor Orb&lt;/a&gt; should work. You could make the deck have a minor focus on creatures that normally are a pain to get out, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leveler&quot;&gt;Leveler&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3208" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T17:40:49.313" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T17:40:49.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8217" CreationDate="2012-08-23T17:37:50.940" Score="4" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a reference to the Avalon Hill board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, the Japanese fleet approached Midway in four waves. The first wave (a strike force of four carriers and supporting ships) was slightly inferior in power to the American forces (three carriers, cruisers, and a &quot;fourth&quot; carrier on Midway). On the second day, the Japanese receive two more waves of reinforcements of surface ships that give them a decisive superiority over the Americans at sea (but not in the air).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Japanese, how do I hide/avoid combat on the first day until my reinforcements arrive, given the Americans' full board &quot;search&quot; capabilities?  Or should I accept the possibility of combat, hope for a more or less even result, and then hope that my second-day reinforcements can overwhelm the Americans?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would your answer change between the Basic game (air combat only, on more or less even terms) and the Advanced game (which allows ship-to-ship combat that favors the Japanese)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:05:51.593" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T21:26:37.297" Title="In Midway, how do I manage the &quot;inferior&quot; Japanese fleet on day 1?" Tags="|midway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2012-08-23T19:47:45.087" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting her from your command zone results with a resounding &lt;strong&gt;you lose the game&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; she enters play.  There are several ways to still use her effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will list a few ways below that will help you to &amp;quot;Make it Work&amp;quot;.  It is not the strongest style, but black has the tutors to pull it off if you really want to do it.  It is funny to see the look on people's face when you reveal Phage as your commander.  They don't know whether or not to take you seriously at first, but some might realize how big of a threat you are when you throw down a pair of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Greaves&quot;&gt;Lightning Greaves&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few ways that prevent the loss are (there may be a few others, but this is all I can think of off the top of my head and I can't look through my deck at the moment):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in play (You can not lose)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giving one of your opponents &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abyssal%20Persecutor&quot;&gt;Abyssal Persecutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (keeps their opponents, you, from losing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torpor%20Orb&quot;&gt;Torpor Orb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in play (Phage's enter the battlefield ability does not trigger)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; in play (End you turn in response to her ability going on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having Phage countered by an effect, such as &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nether%20Void&quot;&gt;Nether Void&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Withering%20Boon&quot;&gt;Withering Boon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dash%20Hope&quot;&gt;Dash Hope&lt;/a&gt;  so she goes to graveyard (choose to let her go to graveyard and use one of black's many ways to get her back into your hand to hard cast from there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3210" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-23T21:13:40.530" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T21:13:40.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8211" CreationDate="2012-08-23T23:07:52.313" Score="5" ViewCount="2752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slumbering%20dragon&quot;&gt;Slumbering dragon&lt;/a&gt; on Gatherer and ran across this quote in the discussion forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally a dragon that doesn't mesh well with Kaalia of the Vast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I pondered this possibility, it occured to me that assumption might be wrong. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kaalia%20of%20the%20Vast&quot;&gt;Kaalia of the Vast&lt;/a&gt; puts a Dragon &lt;strong&gt;creature card&lt;/strong&gt; from your hand onto the battlefield &lt;strong&gt;tapped&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;attacking&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of the rules of magic is that ability text on a creature card only applies once the card is on the battlefield, unless it specifically references another zone (exile, graveyard, in your hand). So by the time Kaalia puts it on the battlefield, the Slumbering Dragon is already tapped and attacking an Opponent, unfettered by its restriction that it cannot attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I wrong? What if there was a dragon/angel/demon card with Defender? Could that also be tapped and attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to do a bit more research on this myself, but if anyone has a solid comprehensive rules reference, that would be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T00:50:31.647" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T00:50:31.647" Title="Can Kaalia of the Vast put Slumbering Dragon into play tapped and attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8210" CreationDate="2012-08-23T23:22:32.557" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a bit of research, it seems my intuition is confirmed. I could quote 112.3d 506.4a, and 508.2a of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;, but the most explicit confirmation comes from the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tiller%20Nephilim&quot;&gt;Tiller Nephilim&lt;/a&gt; rulings on Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature you put onto the battlefield from your graveyard is attacking, even if the attack couldn't legally be declared (for example, if that creature has defender or an effect says that no more than one creature can attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting an attacking creature onto the battlefield doesn't trigger &amp;quot;When this creature attacks&amp;quot; abilities. It also won't check attacking restrictions, costs, or requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-08-23T23:22:32.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8155" CreationDate="2012-08-24T10:51:17.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a really tough question, the situation is super complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would certainly omit the 3:4 exchange, not only is it against proverb (hane at the head of 3 stones) but it appears to be a major aji keshi in combination with the cut in the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Aji&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ....32Oa...-&#xA;$$ ...O.1XOO..-&#xA;$$ .......XX..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 6, that cut seems to exist still, so maybe white should have played one space closer to the edge, or fixed in a different way e.g. like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Fix the cut&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ....OOOc...-&#xA;$$ a..OXXXOO3.-&#xA;$$ .......XX1.-&#xA;$$ .....X...2.-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the suggested moves b and c your original diagram, I believe both of them are thinkable. Refuting any of them is probably impossible unless you are high dan. In an amateur game, I think you should be able to get a reasonable result with any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, my first idea was to play like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Simple&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .....2O....-&#xA;$$ ...O..XOO..-&#xA;$$ ......1XX..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,3..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that way is okay-ish. Locally it appears to be good for white, but we have to consider that white had 1 more stone there to begin with. Also, we must compare this result with the usual joseki results - in this variation, white does not use her stone to attack black, but simply takes territory. Also, maybe the white pincer stone is in an uninteresting place and thus a bit of a waste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T10:51:17.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-24T12:17:59.367" Score="2" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been interested in going to a large Magic tournament for a while now, though whether I &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; go and how far I could travel varies week by week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to look up the Grand Prix schedule and SGC tournaments. But I keep being surprised by other events &amp;mdash; such as TCGPlayer tournaments, a different SGC formats, even PTQs, &amp;mdash; only finding out about them when it's too late to make plans to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I make sure I'm aware of big tournaments near me with more lead time?&lt;/strong&gt; Is there a resource that can show me tournament schedules from more than just one sponsor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T15:21:56.497" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T15:21:56.497" Title="How can I learn about and keep track of major Magic tournaments in my local area?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8213" CreationDate="2012-08-24T13:47:38.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically you would have to look for them on the internet (most have Facebook pages). Also ask other people you know who play Magic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3192" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T13:48:40.033" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T13:48:40.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8213" CreationDate="2012-08-24T13:54:09.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official M:tG site offers a &lt;a href=&quot;http://locator.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;store and tournament locator&lt;/a&gt;. Just enter the name of the town you want to look up, and it will show you upcoming, official tournaments in that town and in an area around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this can only cover sanctioned tournaments that WotC knows about - for unofficial tournaments, your best bet is probably to get in touch with the local player base and store owners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-24T13:57:55.273" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T13:57:55.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8036" CreationDate="2012-08-24T15:34:07.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the information given, this sounds a lot like the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speed_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speed&lt;/a&gt;, but speed doesn't need to be played with 2 decks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastEditorUserId="2077" LastEditDate="2012-09-18T15:26:56.993" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T15:26:56.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8208" CreationDate="2012-08-24T15:48:39.367" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry I don't have the knowledge to answer your question.&#xA;I assume you're asking about the original 1964 edition, as &#xA;opposed to the 1991 &quot;Smithsonian Edition&quot;; unfortunately, I'm not&#xA;familiar with either one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you looked for answers on www.boardgamegeek.com?  Each game&#xA;has its own web-page there, with a (usually very useful) forum&#xA;section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1964 edition&#xA;     &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2250/midway#forums&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2250/midway#forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1991 edition&#xA;     &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1373/midway#forums&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1373/midway#forums&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also find useful information on the forum at &#xA;talk.consimworld.com:  Boardgaming, INDIVIDUAL GAMES . . ,&#xA;Era: World War II (INDIVIDUAL GAME), Pacific Theatre,&#xA;Midway (AH) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3216" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T15:48:39.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2012-08-24T20:36:33.923" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by reading this &quot;dissertation&quot;, as somebody on that forum put it: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/691370/some-complex-strategies-for-7-wonders&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/691370/some-complex-strategies-for-7-wonders&lt;/a&gt;. Nobody addressed this, but the strategy depends a lot on the number of players. With 6-7 people, your feeble attempts to build up the powerful army are only going to take points away from 2/5 = 40% or 2/6 = 33% of the players, while in the 3-player game, the wins and losses affect everybody, and you cannot afford to ignore the military. A three player game is short on brown resources -- play them when they come by, or bury them under if you can, especially if you already have it, and thus are the main provider of this material. A four player game is short on the gray resources -- same mantra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pyramids of Giza give you a clear indication of what you should shoot for: 3 points per card in the first age, 5 points in the second stage, 7 points in the third age. So if you are playing a 5-point blue card in the third age, that's not the greatest achievement; and likewise if you are playing a lonely technology symbol in the third age for 1 point, that's hardly great, either -- but it's a totally different story if that green card completes your second triplet of technologies, bringing you 10 points, way better than the benchmark of 7. (The only excuse to play that lonely green card is if it is the fifth card in the third age, you see your neighbor to the left missing just that card, and the remaining two are purple guilds for which you have nothing at all, or military that won't change anything in the balance of power.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The military aspect is probably one of the greatest and funnest aspects of the game: I rarely go for it unless I have the Rhodes (in which case I do everything humanly possible to build it up in the first era), and point fingers in the final scoring to my neighbor to the left, of whom I got +1, +3, +5 (and he got -1, -1, -1) with a single shield from the first age, and the neighbor to the right who totally won over me with 9 shields, but lost every round to the fourth player with 13 shields (and the guy with 13 shields won over my left hand neighbor with 4 cards, while I won with just one). [Well, that was in one of the less experienced players game, obviously.] The useless, costly and addictive arms race is a great feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, there is no single winning strategy, but you need to be aware of multiple strategies, and adapt your game to whatever you can grab at the moment. Usually, by about the third card in the second era, you already know what you have to do to keep afloat -- and if you are lucky, you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2012-08-24T20:36:33.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8220" CreationDate="2012-08-25T03:26:13.647" Score="6" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Wellspring&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Wellspring&lt;/a&gt; on the field and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Piston%20Sledge&quot;&gt;Piston Sledge&lt;/a&gt;. The equip cost for piston sledge is &amp;quot;sacrifice an artifact&amp;quot;. If I control no creatures, can I sacrifice the Mycosynth Wellspring to the Piston Sledge to benefit from its ability, or does the equip ability require a valid target in order to pay its cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3218" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-09-22T15:22:36.583" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T15:22:36.583" Title="Can I attempt to activate an equipment's equip ability without a valid target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8219" CreationDate="2012-08-25T04:03:02.560" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you may not, you need a target to activate the equip ability. Equip means from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120701.rtf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to &lt;strong&gt;target creature you control&lt;/strong&gt;. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activating an ability is very similar to casting a spell, and most of the same steps need to be followed to activate an ability. If you cannot comply with all the steps, then you have performed an illegal action, and the game backs up the game state to just before that illegal action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. ... Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in order. If, at any point during the activation of an ability, a player is unable to comply with any of those steps, the activation is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that ability started to be activated (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”). Announcements and payments can’t be altered after they’ve been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2b The remainder of the process for activating an ability is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2b–h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the important step that you are incapable of complying with. You cannot announce a valid target for the equip activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2c The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, if you did have a single creature that the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Piston%20Sledge&quot;&gt;Piston Sledge&lt;/a&gt; was already attached to, you could sacrifice an artifact to Equip the Piston Sledge to the already equipped creature. If the creature was an Artifact Creature, you could sacrifice the creature to pay the costs of the activation since costs are paid after targets are chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-25T04:17:17.043" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T04:17:17.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8208" CreationDate="2012-08-25T17:14:56.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answer got me to look up the game again, and here's what I found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Japanese player is worried about the balance of power on Day 1, he should stay out of the range of planes based on Midway (about half of those of an American carrier, although Midway has a greater CAPACITY than any carrier). This means the normal 7-square &quot;round trip&quot; range, and even the 14-square &quot;suicide bomber&quot; range (the rules provide that if some of an attacker's planes are making suicide attacks, and he suffers combat losses, he can count those losses against the &quot;suicide&quot; planes first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Japanese players, that means staying in columns &quot;A&quot; and &quot;B&quot; near the western edge of the board on Day 1, close to Day 2 reinforcements. If the Americans want to attack beyond the range of Midway based planes, they will do so at a disadvantage. This is particularly true in the advanced game, where Midway would have to send additional fighters to bring the American carrier groups to parity with the Japanese, meaning that the carriers would have room for fewer dive bombers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the Japanese player may want to seek aerial combat on almost even terms on Day 1, in order clear the way for later waves. With their (future) edge in ships, &quot;attrition,&quot; provided that it is balanced, favors them. On Day 1, they enjoy &quot;draw odds,&quot; that is if they &quot;draw&quot; on the first day, their reinforcements make them likely to win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Day 2, the focus of the game changes with the arrival of the &lt;em&gt;Atago,&lt;/em&gt; a cruiser whose importance is as the flagship of the transport fleet bound for the invasion of Midway. (The way to attack the transports is to attack the &lt;em&gt;Atago.&lt;/em&gt;) The Americans can try to prevent the invasion of Midway by sinking the &lt;em&gt;Atago.&lt;/em&gt; or follow the historically-based strategy of sinking the Japanese carriers, but they might not be able to do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way for the Japanese to win is to &quot;take out&quot; enough American air power on the first day so the Americans can't prevent the invasion from the &lt;em&gt;Atago.&lt;/em&gt; The other, safer way, is to concentrate forces on Day 2 in order to maximize the chances of a successful retaliation against a &quot;first strike.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-08-25T17:14:56.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23401" CreationDate="2012-08-25T19:51:54.657" Score="9" ViewCount="1949" Body="&lt;p&gt;The countries I'm thinking about are England and Turkey (northwest and southeast).  This type of alliance seems unlikely to develop &quot;naturally&quot; in the real world, since they're nowhere near each other, but they have a common enemy, Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to assume that more pressing concerns for each are &quot;taken care of&quot; by &quot;natural&quot; rivalries, Italy vs. Austria, and Germany vs. France. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if England and Turkey succeed in partitioning Russia, can they find &quot;common ground&quot; in a war against say, the Germanic countries, Germany and Austria-Hungary? Or possibly in alliances with them against the &quot;Latins,&quot; Italy and France?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:13:07.367" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T23:03:26.090" Title="In Diplomacy, is it good strategy to have a primary alliance with a country on the opposite of the board?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T00:08:53.927" Score="7" ViewCount="1798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Down to the last two rounds in rubber bridge.  Declarer claims remaining tricks only to discover that he has miscounted.  He claims the two tricks with Q-10; however, opponent holds the J and depending on how he plays the cards could lose one trick.  How is this handled?  Is scoring affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the same scenario only opponent holds the Q.  Do opponents just get the one trick and game is scored as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3221" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-09-22T15:22:14.523" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T05:40:21.987" Title="In Bridge, what is the punishment for misclaiming tricks?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8224" CreationDate="2012-08-26T06:02:47.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The laws of Contract bridge try to achieve a result equitable to both sides (and not to punish), but in case of doubt, resolution might favour the non-offending side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Laws 68-71 deal with claims (and there are alternative versions for the Club setting), and you can read about them here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/laws/rlaws/lawofcontractbridgecombined_2004.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web2.acbl.org/laws/rlaws/lawofcontractbridgecombined_2004.pdf&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2008 version&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting a paragraph from Law 69 (non Club, 2004 version):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The objective of subsequent play is to achieve a result as equitable&#xA;  as possible to both sides, but any doubtful point must be resolved in&#xA;  favor of the defenders. Declarer may not make any play inconsistent&#xA;  with the statement he may have made at the time of his claim or&#xA;  concession. If he failed to make any appropriate statement at that&#xA;  time, his choice of plays is restricted thereby: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[snipped]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there is also a provision which allows declarer to follow a routine/rational line of play which does not contradict the plays specifically disallowed, in case the claim is rejected. Of course, there are quite a few subjective words in the laws which might lead to different resolutions by different directors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps in your case, it would probably be irrational for declarer to play the 10 instead of Q and dropping the J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer (pun intended): I am not qualified to be a director, so what is written here is just my interpretation. (Though I did get a chance to talk to some directors about this in the past few years of playing and what I write here is influenced by those discussions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T05:40:21.987" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T05:40:21.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8247" CreationDate="2012-08-26T10:22:51.923" Score="4" ViewCount="7685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a database (in whatever format) that contains all official Pokémon data (~PokéDex). A good example is the data &lt;a href=&quot;http://serebii.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;serebii.net&lt;/a&gt; has, but the owner of the site doesn't seem to be eager to hand his data over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3222" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T08:31:31.887" Title="Is there a complete database of Pokémon data?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T11:19:23.697" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Principato two basic resources are gold and food. When 4 people play the game the bank runs out of these cubes pretty quickly. The rule book says nothing about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First question:&lt;/strong&gt; I assume that it is so on purpose to give players more options to play against each other. Is that correct? Or should we have as much food and gold as we want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One observation I've made is that it becomes very different when 3 players play. Availability of cubes is much better and I expect that with 2 players it's not a problem anymore. It changes the mechanics of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second question:&lt;/strong&gt; Shouldn't cubes' availability be limited in some way when only 2 or 3 players play? I haven't found anything on this in the rule book but my feeling is it would make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-26T13:50:59.097" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T17:07:55.617" Title="Principato: availability of cubes" Tags="|principato|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-26T11:29:10.237" Score="5" ViewCount="52" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Principato each player randomly gets one card that allows them to build a facility: a house, a bank, a field or a farm. However, only houses and fields yield resources needed to expand your principality, forcing players that drew banks or farms to exchange them quickly. Additionally, it makes these players late starters in a run for farms and houses, which often happens in 4-player setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm missing here, or are the starting cards unbalanced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/em&gt; I know that you can draw a more or less fitting set of starting action and goal cards, but I'm asking only about the 4 starting action cards that allow you to build something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-26T13:50:35.073" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T13:50:35.073" Title="Are starting cards in Principato unbalanced?" Tags="|principato|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8224" CreationDate="2012-08-26T11:49:47.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laying down your cards doesn't automatically end the hand: either opponent can ask to play it out, with you playing as you said you would.   So if an opponent has the Q of trumps, he will take it on the first trick, and then choose what to lead knowing what is in your hand; if that gives him an extra trick, so be it.  You can't be expected to play irrationally; so if the lead is in your hand, and you say 'Play trumps', it would be expected that you play the Q before the 10.  On the other hand, if the lead is in dummy, and you play towards the Q10  without specifying which, the opponents can ask you to play either. This is because, having seen all the cards, you can't choose whether or not to take a finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-26T11:49:47.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8235" CreationDate="2012-08-27T06:55:27.900" Score="6" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Citadels/Machiavelli the rules state that the current king, in order to start a round, needs to look at the first character card and put it face down on the table. Then put a certain number of character cards face up on the table. If the King card is amongst the open cards a new character card is put face up instead of him.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;I think that applying this rule results in a situation in which the first player is unable to get the King character because the second player would then know for 100% sure that the first player chose it. Consider the following situation: The King was amongst the face up cards and is replaced by another character. Player two therefore knows that the king card is availble to player one. If then player two receives the character cards and the king is no longer there, player one MUST have chosen it.&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Considering the fact that the whole process of character selection in Citadels is very well balanced and you never really know for sure who took which character, I feel that somehow there must be a way to change this rule a little so that the problem is avoided. How would you implement this rule in such a way that the problem no longer exists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T20:16:46.513" Title="How to avoid the situation in which player 2 knows for sure that player 1 chose the King?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8149" CreationDate="2012-08-27T08:04:27.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get little plastic boxes in all kinds of shapes and sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/uk/html/onlineshop/fullrange_rub.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/uk/html/onlineshop/fullrange_rub.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the little clear plastic bags with press-in tops (known as zip-lock)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ziploc.com/Products/Pages/default.aspx?products=all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ziploc.com/Products/Pages/default.aspx?products=all&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For storage of multiple card-based games there are all kinds of small craft storage units with drawers of varying sizes. Personally I use the bags for games with lots of elements such as Agricola, and just keep all the bags of pieces/cards in the Agricola box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic: the Gathering fat-pack boxes are excellent for storing multiple cards in (I have a friend who stores Race for the Galaxy, Gloom, The Great Del Mutay, and some regular playing cards in one) You can get empty ones from ebay or M:tG stores such as Troll and Toad (I'm limited to 2 hyperlinks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3228" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T08:04:27.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8230" CreationDate="2012-08-27T14:42:53.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove the appropriate number of random characters face-up, if a King is revealed reshuffle. Then randomly select a character card and place it face-down&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will still have you reshuffling the character cards 25% of the time in a 4-Player game (if you remove the King from the face-up random cards, you reshuffle 100% of the time), but it is much better than The only two other possibilities that come to mind. In this way, the second player doesn't know if you chose the King or it was removed face-down randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove the exception for choosing a new card if the King is revealed face-up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow the First Player to choose between the Last Players face-down discarded card, or their original choice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these suggestions have their own issues. If you allow the King to be removed face-up, you are changing the odds that the First Player changes each round. In a 4-Player game, you have tripled the chances from 12.5 to 37.5, that the King is unavailable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the latter suggestion, the first player knows all the roles that were chosen. This means that they are certain to hit with the Assassin or Thief. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, The first player sets aside one character card face-down &lt;strong&gt;with-out&lt;/strong&gt; looking at it, according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faidutti.com/citadels/citadelsrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (not that this isn't easy to deduce).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T20:16:46.513" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T20:16:46.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8227" CreationDate="2012-08-27T16:50:33.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no FAQ from the designer, and he has never answered definitively on BGG, but without any rule in the rulebook to the contrary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cubes are lmited.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly the houses are limited, but cash has a specific rule that it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico the goods and buildings have a limit, but if victory points run out keep track on paper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Race for the Galaxy the VP points if you run out, you are told specifically to keep track some other way.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless a rule tells you otherwise, I would assume that components are limited by their physical natuire unless otherwise noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T17:07:55.617" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T17:07:55.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8240" CreationDate="2012-08-27T20:54:40.467" Score="9" ViewCount="2804" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get my fiancée interested in playing Warhammer games. She's interested in fantasy and I'm interested in the sci-fi 40k branch of the game, plus I've already got an army in the making. If we got a fantasy army, is there any adapter between the two rulesets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T21:16:59.550" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T16:21:47.013" Title="Can I mix Fantasy and 40k in a game?" Tags="|house-rules|warhammer-40k|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8242" CreationDate="2012-08-27T21:01:49.257" Score="1" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which army is best suited to adapting to a fantasy themed, mêlée based army (in both rules and look of model)? Do 40k armies suit mêlée combat at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T23:35:39.167" Title="Mêlée based, fantasy themed Warhammer 40k army?" Tags="|house-rules|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8239" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8243" CreationDate="2012-08-27T22:26:55.680" Score="10" ViewCount="1053" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like most commercial board games come in the same kinds of boxes.  Where can you buy such boxes (without labels already on them)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T13:16:46.713" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T18:10:22.377" Title="Board game boxes" Tags="|storage|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8237" CreationDate="2012-08-27T23:11:24.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately they are completely different rulesets.  While they have a few similar mechanics(rolling to hit/wound or making characteristic tests), the structure of the games do not synch up.  Turn structure is different. Ranged weapons, saves, movement, and combat are all different.  Applying some fairly common rules in one system to the other can have game breaking results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you did build a bridge between the two systems the armies would just not play well against each other.  Stats aren't balanced between the two systems.  They have different baselines(Armor saves in fantasy are mostly 6+, if you have one at all, and in 40k 2+ and 3+ are not uncommon). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest you could get would be to have one person play Chaos Demons.  The same demon models can be used in fantasy and 40k with the appropriate army book.  It's a little awkward because 40k and Fantasy use round and square bases respectively, but most players would give you a pass in friendly games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T23:11:24.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8238" CreationDate="2012-08-27T23:25:49.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Daemons of Chaos seems like an obvious answer here, since it's the same set of models for both game systems.  You would need to use the square bases to be playable in Fantasy, but the advantages that grants in 40K are pretty slim.  If you're not actively abusing it I doubt many people would object.  (Daemons are also frankly, not very powerful an army in 40K, so people are unlikely to cry cheese at you regardless.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T23:25:49.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8238" CreationDate="2012-08-27T23:30:55.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Melee combat can be effective in 40k, but armies that focus on it to the exclusion of ranged combat will have serious issues.  Armies like Eldar rely on their shooting to reliably destroy tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said many of the 40k armies have fantasy analogs, and most of the armies can field dedicated melee units.  Stylistically, armies like Grey Knights stay pretty close to their fantasy roots.  Chaos demons even use the same models between both games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GW gamers all also very tolerant of themed conversions.  You can kit-bash Fantasy and 40k kits together to give a more sword and sorcery look to your grim dark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2012-08-27T23:35:39.167" LastActivityDate="2012-08-27T23:35:39.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8239" CreationDate="2012-08-28T00:20:06.670" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably need to contact a boardgame manufacturer, or prototyping service. Would probably run you about $2 a box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamedesign.com/pages/go_shopping_2012/boxes_combined.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/47269/item/1276018#item1276018&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Print and Play productions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielematerial.de/en/game-components/game-boxes.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Speilmaterial.de&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T09:58:49.783" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T09:58:49.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10799" CreationDate="2012-08-28T05:07:02.603" Score="5" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Gloria Picktoria, does a unique collection give 4 points because it is unique, or does it give 7 points because it is unique (4) but also the longest collection of that type in the game (3)?&#xA;Logically I would say that it gives just 4 points, but my rulebook is not clear on this point. What is the correct rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T12:30:00.260" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T12:30:00.260" Title="Does a unique collection give 4 or 7 points?" Tags="|gloria-picktoria|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9110" CreationDate="2012-08-28T07:27:30.027" Score="7" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I discovered the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37301/decktet&quot;&gt;Decktet&lt;/a&gt; playing card pack, and have been enjoying the way that suits and ranks combine to make for some very clever games. However, I think I would be able to use better strategies if I could remember what cards existed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that the basic deck contains one card of each rank/suit combination, and that the extended deck contains two pawns and two courts of each suit, along with The Excuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there was some further logic behind the card arrangement, or some easy way to remember that there is, e.g., a nine of moons/suns, an eight of moons/suns, but no seven of moons/suns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T06:52:07.150" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T06:52:07.150" Title="Remembering Decktet Card Distribution" Tags="|decktet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8800" CreationDate="2012-08-28T15:21:44.383" Score="12" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;The computer game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civilization_IV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Civilization IV&lt;/a&gt; allowed large scale user customisation. One of the largest and most detailed of these game mods is the community-based &lt;a href=&quot;http://kael.civfanatics.net/About.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fall From Heaven II&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within the mod, it is possible to play a card game called &lt;em&gt;Somnium&lt;/em&gt; against your AI opponents. A game in progess looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XFLgv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is simple but addictive, and the cards are beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a real-life implementation of this game exist? Ideally, I'm looking for a deck of cards with the same artwork and numbering as the computer version, but I'm also interested to know if the game mechanics are implemented anywhere else, perhaps under a different name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T14:18:26.237" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T05:24:07.040" Title="How can I play Somnium in real life?" Tags="|somnium|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2012-08-28T15:29:16.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/veekun/pokedex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This Python project&lt;/a&gt; on GitHub contains a lot of up-to-date Pokémon information (including evolutions and moves etc) from the video games, which may be useful to you in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-08-29T08:31:31.887" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T08:31:31.887" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8226" CreationDate="2012-08-28T17:10:14.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't vouch for its completeness, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-trading-card-game/database/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-trading-card-game/database/&lt;/a&gt; seems to be a similar resource to the Magic TCG's &quot;Gatherer&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly when I made a request for cards with the name &quot;Pikachu&quot; I got 27 card results, so it seems like it could keep a deckbuilder busy for quite a while...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T17:10:14.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8250" CreationDate="2012-08-28T17:57:26.527" Score="7" ViewCount="6372" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=157286&quot;&gt;Say I play a Noggle Bandit&lt;/a&gt; (or any card with split mana in its cost). Does its color depend on what mana I use to play it, or is it always both red and blue? It seems a little weird that this card would return &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=110639&quot;&gt;Aurora Eidolon&lt;/a&gt; from my graveyard to my hand AND be able to block red creatures with intimidate if I only paid blue mana for it, but I highly doubt that it would 'remember' the mana-color used to play it. Likewise, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159408&quot;&gt;Reaper King&lt;/a&gt; would always be 5 colors no matter how I pay its cost, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T18:42:22.290" Title="Is a spell with split mana in its cost a multicolored spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8249" CreationDate="2012-08-28T18:27:10.707" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A card's color is all colors contained in its mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;, be it regular mana symbols and/or hybrid and/or Phyrexian mana, plus the color of its color indicator, if any:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;202.2d An object with one or more hybrid mana symbols and/or Phyrexian mana symbols in its mana cost is all of the colors of those mana symbols, in addition to any other colors the object might be. (Most cards with hybrid mana symbols in their mana costs are printed in a two-tone frame. See rule 107.4e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it's not at all unusual that a card has a color that is different to what you pay to cast it. There are numerous cases where those two properties are unrelated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples include: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;type=+%5b%22Creature%22%5d&amp;amp;cmc=+=%5b0%5d&quot;&gt;Creatures that have no mana costs at all or cost zero mana&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5bconvoke%5d||type=+%5bconvoke%5d||subtype=+%5bconvoke%5d||text=+%5bconvoke%5d&quot;&gt;Creatures that have their colored mana costs reduced to zero&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5bput%5d+%5bcreature%5d+%5bcard%5d+%5bhand%5d+%5bbattlefield%5d||type=+%5bput%5d+%5bcreature%5d+%5bcard%5d+%5bhand%5d+%5bbattlefield%5d||subtype=+%5bput%5d+%5bcreature%5d+%5bcard%5d+%5bhand%5d+%5bbattlefield%5d||text=+%5bput%5d+%5bcreature%5d+%5bcard%5d+%5bhand%5d+%5bbattlefield%5d&quot;&gt;Creatures that are brought into play without paying its mana costs through other means&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5brather%5d+%5bthan%5d+%5bpay%5d&amp;amp;type=+%5b%22Creature%22%5d&quot;&gt;Creatures that have alternative costs that do not include mana at all&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-08-28T18:42:22.290" LastActivityDate="2012-08-28T18:42:22.290" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8259" CreationDate="2012-08-29T14:21:09.643" Score="9" ViewCount="14902" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClone%5d&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; doesn't say the word &quot;target&quot; anywhere in its text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may have Clone enter the battlefield as a copy of any creature on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that it isn't targeting the creature it's cloning, and could therefore be used to copy a creature with shroud (or hexproof) or a creature with protection (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Aeons%20Torn%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-02-06T21:47:31.810" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T20:05:57.110" Title="Can you Clone a creature with protection or shroud?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:23:02.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8251" CreationDate="2012-08-29T14:58:13.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A play I'm seeing a lot in the Standard Magic videos I'm watching is to cast a Phantasmal Image as a copy of a Geist of Saint Traft or Thrun, the Last Troll - an easy way of destroying a problematic Hexproof creature via the legend rule!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T14:58:13.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8237" CreationDate="2012-08-29T15:45:02.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did manage to mix the two, but not in the way you're probably thinking.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I had a WFRP campaign that I sent forward to the 40K time period.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It was quite straightforward to adapt a 40K unit into a WFRP NPC.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably not the kind of a solution you were looking for though.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Still, notable because it worked really well.  Very memorable game for all concerned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T15:45:02.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2012-08-29T16:11:19.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the good advice already given:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More dice is always better, so my recommended investigators (in order):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Joe Diamond is key.  No one can get more dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mandy Thompson is a close second, since her ability doesn't depend on&#xA;items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My key exception is Kate Winthrop: her ability to ignore terror&#xA;effects is powerful, especially considering that adventures with&#xA;terror effects tend to be easier to accomplish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloria Goldberg and Jenny Barnes are a toss-up: Gloria is a touch&#xA;more useful since there are more other world locations at the end&#xA;game, and they tend to have elder signs to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darrell Simmons has had some success for me, mainly clearing out&#xA;lower end adventures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One trick I've found useful - you don't have to complete a task just because you have the glyphs to do so.  I've discarded so I could focus (reserve) a special glyph that I need for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monsters aren't always bad - sometimes a monster can make an adventure easier by covering a more complex task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game moves very quickly, and if you get behind the doom count it gets difficult to catch up.  Don't waste time buying/hoarding items, only heal when you have to.  The one exception is elder signs - I've won a couple of games by buying the last elder sign or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3234" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T16:11:19.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-29T16:57:34.033" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in playing some games with our very young (16 months) son.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think he's a little young for most things yet - I'm familiar with Old Maid, Dominoes, and similar games that involve a little bit of matching; those seem like they will be good points of entry for him shortly.  Marbles, while also great, involves tiny pieces that can be swallowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to avoid games like Candyland and probably even Chutes and Ladders - they annoy me.  :-)  Other games with a lot of cards or paper products involved are probably right out - they'll get slobbered on or destroyed.  Small parts get eaten.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some concrete, not commonly known games that might be interesting to him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="982" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:48:27.033" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T23:48:27.033" Title="What are some interesting starter games for a very young child?" Tags="|recommendations|kids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2012-08-29T17:52:15.867" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8256" CreationDate="2012-08-29T17:21:39.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to say CandyLand and Chutes and Ladders, because as annoying as they are they are still a huge hit with my 4 year old. I am hoping that she will soon be old enough for Catan Junior! She already wants to play Catan with Mama.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3237" LastActivityDate="2012-08-29T17:21:39.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8251" CreationDate="2012-08-29T22:04:26.603" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A spell or ability that targets must use the word &quot;target&quot; in the rules text, or the rules of the Keyword ability on a card.&lt;/strong&gt; Everything you need to know is covered under rule 114, where 114.1a-e covers targeted spells and abilities and when those targets must be selected. Most spells and abilities that target will say &quot;target&quot; directly on the card, unless their &lt;strong&gt;Keyword&lt;/strong&gt; ability rules covers this already (i.e. Auras, Equipment, Haunt, etc.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder text, which shows up in many base sets or on cards with new Keyword abilities, might appear on a card in &lt;em&gt;italics&lt;/em&gt; with the word &quot;target&quot; to inform you an ability is targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.9a Just because an object or player is being affected by a spell or ability doesn’t make that object or player a target of that spell or ability. &lt;strong&gt;Unless that object or player is identified by the word “target” in the text of that spell or ability, or the rule for that keyword ability, it’s not a target.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-08-30T03:21:44.753" LastActivityDate="2012-08-30T03:21:44.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-08-30T23:55:47.020" Score="5" ViewCount="3088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just double checking so that I don't ruin a $20 model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't plan on playing in tournaments, however, I would like to stick to the rules as far as my army is concerned just to make casual games smoother. I'm new to 40K and I figure if I skimp too much on the rules that I won't actually learn the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Necron Overlord finecast box did not come with a Warscythe, which the codex says I can upgrade him to in place of a Staff of Light. The model box does come with a Staff of Light, and the codex depicts a Warscythe as roughly a Staff of Light with one of the blades removed. If possible, I would like to keep the whole Staff of Light just in case I later decide to not use the Warscythe upgrade in my roster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1538" LastEditorUserId="1538" LastEditDate="2012-08-31T18:25:27.147" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T01:56:57.450" Title="Do I have to physically cut into my Necron Overlord's Staff of Light to upgrade it to Warscythe?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2012-08-31T11:14:22.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;GOmatches.com&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gomatches.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.gomatches.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great turn-based GO server. It's completely web-based so you don't need to download anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3242" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T11:14:22.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8264" CreationDate="2012-08-31T13:06:33.463" Score="3" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a reference to another Avalon Hill Board game, this time the chase of the German superbattleship &lt;em&gt;Bismarck.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The British put out &quot;hunter groups&quot; of two surface capital ships, for instance, the battleship &lt;em&gt;Prince of Wales&lt;/em&gt; and the battle cruiser &lt;em&gt;Hood,&lt;/em&gt; the battleship &lt;em&gt;King George V&lt;/em&gt; and the battle cruiser &lt;em&gt;Repulse&lt;/em&gt; (supported by fleet aircraft carrier &lt;em&gt;Victorious&lt;/em&gt;), the battleship &lt;em&gt;Rodney&lt;/em&gt; and the battle cruiser &lt;em&gt;Renown&lt;/em&gt; (supported by aircraft carrier &lt;em&gt;Ark Royal&lt;/em&gt;), etc. This reflected their &quot;real life&quot; strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dynamics of the game were such that the British could win if they sank the &lt;em&gt;Bismarck&lt;/em&gt; at the cost of one ship, but would lose if it cost them two or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this an adequate strategy that would give the British a chance to win? Or should they have used a different strategy (groups of three battleships instead of two, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I played one indecisive game, and therefore have the experience of playing, but not winning.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:05:48.287" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T17:05:48.287" Title="Did the British employ a reasonable strategy in &quot;Bismarck&quot;?" Tags="|bismarck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8267" CreationDate="2012-08-31T14:20:51.170" Score="6" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use Procession on Pillage, what happens? I'm guessing that I would gain 4 Spoils, but no action worth 6, since the Pillage was already trashed by the time Procession finished resolving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="1174" LastEditDate="2012-08-31T19:25:07.483" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T19:25:07.483" Title="Procession and pillage interaction" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8262" CreationDate="2012-08-31T14:56:41.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the assumptions they were working under, yes.  Those assumptions proved incorrect,  but in real life you don't get to check the rulebook and the numbers on the counters before you decide on a strategy.  The assumptions, roughly speaking, were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Crippling the Bismarck was as good as sinking it&lt;/em&gt;.  This is roughly the equivalent of the victory conditions; losing a battleship was acceptable provided that the German ship was damaged enough to be finished off by reserve forces, aircraft, or submarines, and the British remained in contact so those forces could reach her.  One battleship obviously could not guarantee this, but two or more probably could, assuming that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One battleship is much like another&lt;/em&gt;.  That's obviously the heart of the strategy; how many ships are necessary in a group? To be completely safe, you would need all your ships in one group, which would mean you would never actually have a battle.  The assumption that any two battleships would be enough to destroy any one was not unreasonable, given that a series of treaties in the 1930s had ensured that every battleship should be on the same displacement, and so should be of roughly equal ability. Actually, the Germans had built a heavier ship than allowed, and lied about it; but that isn't something you can ask an Admiral to decide, and in any case the final showdown, between a &lt;em&gt;Bismarck&lt;/em&gt; with steering damage but unimpaired fighting ability and two normal British battleships, ended in success.  The unexamined, and flawed, assumption here was that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One British capital ship is much like another.&lt;/em&gt;  The &lt;em&gt;Prince of Wales&lt;/em&gt; was admittedly not the best-trained ship in the fleet, (she went to sea with dockyard workers still working on the turrets), so the Admiralty teamed her with the 'Mighty &lt;em&gt;Hood&lt;/em&gt;', heaviest and most prestigious ship in the Navy.  A good plan, except that &lt;em&gt;Hood&lt;/em&gt; wasn't a battleship at all. There was a clear distinction when &lt;em&gt;Hood&lt;/em&gt; was built between 'Dreadnought battleships' and 'battlecruisers'; the latter, the same size as the former, had better engines but less armour, in order to support friendly cruisers and catch raiders.  'Jane's Fighting Ships' (1908 edition I think) welcomed the idea, but warned of the danger that battlecruisers would be treated as battleships and asked to face enemy battleships, which they would not be able to do.  Sadly, this proved prophetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're asking purely in game terms, the obvious answer is that each hunting group needs to be strong enough to sink or cripple the &lt;em&gt;Bismarck&lt;/em&gt; while losing no more than one capital ship, but no stronger (since you need as many groups as possible).  How many ships is that?; you're the player, you tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T14:56:41.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8260" CreationDate="2012-08-31T16:08:08.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it depends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;40K by the rules is WYSIWYG(What you see is what you get).  This means that if you give a guy an ax, he needs to be modeled with something vaguely ax shaped.  If you give him a bolt pistol he needs to be holding something bolt pistol like(a holster at his hip works too)  This holds true for the war scythe as well.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some wiggle room on this because the game doesn't always specifically say what advanced alien melee weapons are supposed to look like.  So if you can squint your eyes and the thing the Overload is holding is two handed and sorta scythe shaped, your're probably good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most friendly games, telling your opponent what the character is armed with before the start of the game is generally sufficient.  Often people like to try out different combinations of wargear, and a certain amount of proxying is tolerated.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all dependent on the group of guys you play with.  Some groups may be stricter about the application of WYSIWYG than others.  Check with your gaming group to be sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on playing in tournaments--especially larger ones, you will probably have to go with a more explicit conversion.  Tournaments are more likely to enforce strict WYSIWYG for the sake of side-stepping potential rules arguments.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T16:08:08.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8260" CreationDate="2012-08-31T18:27:51.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The consensus across a couple of forums appears to be that I can keep the Staff of Light and simply inform opponents that it should be considered a Warscythe instead. WYSIWYG is flexible; not all options/upgrades have physical bits for display (e.g. Mindshackle scarabs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1538" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T18:27:51.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8263" CreationDate="2012-08-31T18:44:38.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the best I can find, which seems to be a definitive answer.  The text in the Dark Ages rulebook is enlightening (page 7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In rare circumstances an effect may try to move a card that is not&#xA;  where that effect expects the card to be.  In those cases, the card&#xA;  does not move - the effect has &quot;lost track&quot; of the card.  Losing track&#xA;  of a card prevents it from being moved, but does not stop anything&#xA;  else from happening.  For example, &lt;strong&gt;if you Procession a Madman,&#xA;  Procession first puts Madman in play; then you resolve Madman&lt;/strong&gt;, getting&#xA;  +2 Actions and drawing cards and &lt;strong&gt;returning Madman to the Madman pile&lt;/strong&gt;; then Procession fails to put Madman into play again, because&#xA;  Procession expects to find Madman in play, but it is not there, it's&#xA;  int he Madman pile; &lt;strong&gt;then you resolve Madman again&lt;/strong&gt;, only getting +2&#xA;  actions this time, since it says &quot;if you do&quot; before the card-drawing,&#xA;  and you did not actually return it to the pile this time; then Process&#xA;  fails to trash Madman since Procession again expects to find Madman in&#xA;  play and it is not there; and then you can an Action costing (1) if&#xA;  you can. [...] &lt;strong&gt;Things lose track of a card if something moves it, if&#xA;  it is the top card of a deck and gets covered up, or if it is the top&#xA;  card of a discard pile and gets covered up&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to say that the Pillage card goes into effect twice, even though it has been trashed at the end of the first time it goes into effect.  So yes, you get 4 Spoils (assuming there are enough Spoils left in the supply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the explanatory text for Procession (page 16):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] then gain an Action card costing exactly more than it (even if&#xA;  somehow you failed to trash it). Gaining a card is not optional once&#xA;  you choose to play an Action card but will fail to happen if no card in the Supply costs the exact amount needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is to say, the text on the card doesn't say &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; you trash it, gain a card, only that you both a) trash the chosen card (if possible), and b) gain an action card costing one more than the chosen card (if possible).  So yes, you do in fact gain an action card costing (6) in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1174" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T18:44:38.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7998" CreationDate="2012-08-31T20:55:47.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is OK to grab some actions on the first two hands before the first shuffle, I try to maintain 1:2 to 2:3 ratio of actions to treasures afterwards (I would lean towards more aggresive 1:2 with the trashers like Chapel or Moneylender that will quickly weed out most of the pennies). Of course, for every strategy rule there will be tons of exceptions, depending on the particular cards on the table (Workshop+Gardens usually mean that you are going to stuff your deck with useless greens pretty quickly, and only after that go for silvers with these Workshops). But I guess your reason for asking this question is that you kept finding yourself with three actions in hand of which only one is playable, and two-three money in the end. And the answer to that is, &quot;Learn to control your action shopping spree, and buy silver more often with $4 or even $5 in hand&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that there are relatively few card combinations that reliably beat the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/big-money/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Money&lt;/a&gt; strategy, especially with the more basic cards (I mostly play Basic + Intrigue with the friends). That is, in say a three-players game, Big Money could produce 30% of the wins, but consistent stupid choices of actions could produce as low as 15% winning probability. To get up to 35-40%, you would need to fine-tune your buying strategies for nearly every round of the game (it's too late to buy a Chapel when there are 3 Provinces left; or to buy a Witch when there are 5 Curses left; Village is useless unless your actions comprise about 40% of your deck; etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2012-08-31T20:55:47.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8270" CreationDate="2012-09-01T17:24:12.537" Score="11" ViewCount="17863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I foolishly over-sprayed some of my Warhammer models. They are now have a thick coat that obscures some details and has cracked in places. &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1XWC6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I remove this coat at all? Do I use chemicals? Do I just sand them down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2020-08-22T12:54:16.360" LastActivityDate="2020-08-22T12:54:16.360" Title="I've massively over-sprayed my models! Help!" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8269" CreationDate="2012-09-01T20:59:41.177" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, acrylic paint can be safely removed, and quite simply too. The basic process is to dunk your models in a solution of household cleaner, watered down if you like, and leave them in the bath for a few hours. The paint turns into a kind of slimy goo, which you can then scrub off with a toothbrush and toothpicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/how_5571611_remove-paint-warhammer-models.html&quot;&gt;standard recommendation&lt;/a&gt;. In the UK, diluted Dettol (a common disinfectant), has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-from-Metal-and-Plastic-Models-with-Dettol&quot;&gt;shown to be effective&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody actually did a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/guestarticles/removingpaint3.htm&quot;&gt;comparison of different cleaners&lt;/a&gt; for this very purpose. He actually found that oven cleaner worked best of all (easy removal after an hour), but also reported positive results with Simply Green (although interestingly, not 409, which serves a similar purpose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Degreaser or brake fluid are other possibilities, but these are nastier and harder to assess, since they come in many variants. For safety, I'd stick to surface cleaner, or oven cleaner if you have a test model you are willing to potentially sacrifice (if you've ever cleaned an oven, you'll be well aware that oven cleaner is viscous stuff!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methylated spirits and so on are best avoided, as these can erode your models over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-09-01T20:59:41.177" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8272" CreationDate="2012-09-02T00:14:45.630" Score="4" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on using the 6th edition Allies rules to add some Necrons to my tau army. As a novice player I'd like to know which units would best suit this mix?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only barely know my Tau army, and I know &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt; of Necrons. Where do I start filling the holes in my Tau army? Why &lt;em&gt;those&lt;/em&gt; pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-06T23:08:39.053" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T12:13:10.743" Title="How could I augment my Tau army with Necrons?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|necron|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8271" CreationDate="2012-09-02T02:04:11.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While Tau finally got some flyers of their own, the Necron flyers are still cheaper and better.  I would suggest using two squads of warriors in Nightscythes.  You should also run an Overlord.  He won't do much for you, but he unlocks a Royal Court.  Take one of those with a few Storm Crypteks.  Give the crypteks Voltaic staffs to shred hull points off vehicles.  Round it all out with a Doomscythe or an Annihilation Barge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively instead of an overlord take a Destroyer Lord with a warscythe and have him lead a unit of wraiths.  Very annoying to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give your Tau some mobile scoring units and a little more durability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2013-04-16T12:13:10.743" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T12:13:10.743" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8282" CreationDate="2012-09-02T09:27:26.997" Score="23" ViewCount="18830" Body="&lt;p&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill features character pentagons with 4 traits that can increase or decrease and are marked by clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bqUZK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;all six character pentagrams with clips attached&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find (at least with my copy) that the clips slip and slide too easily; we often lose track of our stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried blu-tack but we aren't sure if that will damage the cardboard. We've tried writing them down but we still lose track as the stat tracker isn't always told/listening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a better way to keep track of traits? Preferably an improvement on the clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T21:58:58.367" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T23:14:20.683" Title="How can I get the trait clips in Betrayal at House on the Hill to stay on?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|components|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8284" CreationDate="2012-09-02T09:34:24.677" Score="6" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played the Zombie haunt (21) last night and found a hitch. The rules say the Heros win if they &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...kill the zombie lord or all the zombies...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went on an axe murdering spree and nailed all but one of the zombies before dying (such a good game!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at as my sole other companion ran the spear through the last zombie (with the zombie lord in the &lt;em&gt;next room over!&lt;/em&gt;) and declared we had one, the traitor cried foul. They said that the zombie lord was a zombie, and 'Killing all the Zombies' meant they had to be vanquished too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We argued that if the zombie lord had to be killed regardless it would have simply said 'Kill the Zombie Lord'. Eventually they relented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the logic behind not having to kill the zombie lord? Was our decision right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T21:57:24.983" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T02:33:55.060" Title="Is the zombie lord a zombie?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8322" CreationDate="2012-09-02T09:50:58.597" Score="6" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently received Betrayal at House on the Hill. The last and only three times we've played it the same person/player has been the traitor. I know this is unlikely, but we've started joking that the haunt text says &quot;&lt;em&gt;Player X is the traitor&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. They don't seem to mind (&quot;is the game trying to tell us something?&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are rules for skipping haunts you've already played. Are there rules for skipping traitors that have gotten sick of being traitors? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-09T19:41:07.653" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T10:22:34.930" Title="How can we stop the same person being the traitor each time?" Tags="|house-rules|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T09:54:36.187" Score="6" ViewCount="2634" Body="&lt;p&gt;In one of the haunts (25/26?) the traitor has hidden several Voodoo dolls about the house. When we played I had the dog and found my fellow explorers doll. I tried to use the dog to move it (to take it to the other player) but we eventually reasoned that the rules don't say anything about moving the dolls (they aren't items that can be picked up, stolen etc), so even I couldn't have moved them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were we right, or could I have collected the dolls whilst the other explorer tied up the traitor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T21:55:22.570" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T02:28:43.290" Title="Can Voodoo dolls be moved?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8478" CreationDate="2012-09-02T09:56:50.287" Score="6" ViewCount="4318" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the Idol in Betrayal at House on the Hill, can I use it on someone else's turn, say in a defensive roll? Or is it just for your turn? If I used it on someone else's turn can I also use it on my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And doesn't specify which turn. Should it say round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T21:53:34.473" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T15:53:09.417" Title="Can I use the Idol during other player's turns?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T10:10:26.537" Score="2" ViewCount="2595" Body="&lt;p&gt;The people who I play Betrayal at the House on the Hill with are also the same groups that share my love of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supernatural_%28TV_series%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Supernatural&lt;/a&gt;. We'd love to make some Dean, Sam and John Winchester characters as well as some for Bobby, Jo etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I best do this? I found this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/346854/character-card-alternatives&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on Board Game Geek but it doesn't give me much of an idea as to how to make them on the pentagons (one aspect of the game I find very cool), just on how to replace the current ones with cards and paper clips (ugh!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a website/service where I can print cards or some such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T12:45:48.740" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T17:14:54.527" Title="How can I make alternative characters for BatHotH?" Tags="|house-rules|custom-game-pieces|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-02T10:45:29.053" Score="10" ViewCount="18832" Body="&lt;p&gt;The character cards for Betray at the house on the Hill are very complicated, in so much as the track you move the traits along are not linear. Different character's traits start in different places and progress at different speeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How can I factor this in when picking a character?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can easily tell that Ox/Flash are the two physical characters and that Reinhardt/Longfellow represent the mental characters, but is it that simple? I've heard from articles that Flash, despite his speed is a weak character, but when I played him last he seemed balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should I interpret the other 6 characters, who seem to have a blend of traits?  What are their strengths and weaknesses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Are all the characters born equal?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of the characters weaker, overall, due to their traits? Or are they all balanced? Are there other strengths/weaknesses not shown in their traits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good answer would have a run down of the strengths, weakness and general strategies for playing as each character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T16:40:00.293" Title="Betrayal at House on the Hill characters: Strength and Weaknesses?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8283" CreationDate="2012-09-02T11:01:48.073" Score="8" ViewCount="1582" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing the voodoo haunt in Betrayal at the house on the hill and a few factors came into play, to paraphrase the rules of that haunt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...You win if all the dolls are destroyed and at least half of the explorers don't die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...If you die your doll is automagically destroyed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played with three explorers (one traitor, two heroes). After my friend destroyed his doll I ended up succumbing to the voodoo doll and died, thus my doll was destroyed. Half of the heroes still lived (as did the traitor), and all the dolls were destroyed. We won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a little odd that the heroes won by one of them dying. In fact had he been more ruthless, my partner may have killed me to win. It was bit of a let down. Should he have had to fight the traitor still? Or was this a legit win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-02T21:52:21.030" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:23:02.587" Title="Should dying have won us the game when playing the voodoo haunt?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8294" CreationDate="2012-09-02T13:34:46.083" Score="2" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is from the New York Post, which is to say that it is a &quot;problem.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are declarer (South) in a 3 no trump contract. You get a &quot;friendly&quot; lead in a suit where you have three winners (two in hand, one in dummy). You have A-K in each of two other suits for seven top tricks. You have no issues (transportation or weaknesses) in these three suits, but no chances for extra tricks. So focus &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; on the fact that you need two tricks from the fourth suit, in which you hold K854.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dummy holds QT32.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the suit splits 3-2, there's no problem. If it splits 5-0, you might be out of luck. Your &quot;nightmare&quot; scenario is a 4-1 split with the singleton being either the 7 or the 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently, the correct procedure is to lead low to one of your face cards for a finesse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you decide whether to lead from dummy toward your king, or from hand toward the queen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which trivializes the second question: should you win in hand or in dummy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T22:34:32.850" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T17:10:46.157" Title="How do you decide which way to finesse for an ace?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2012-09-02T17:00:57.573" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/744960/black-plastic-sliders-for-character-cards&quot;&gt;common complaint&lt;/a&gt;. The sliders are just too big. Solutions that have worked for others include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/62234/alternate-method-for-traits-tracking&quot;&gt;alternative print-out&lt;/a&gt;, with washers for tracking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrapping each side of the character card with sticky tape, for thickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Laminating the cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Applying some PVA glue inside the sliders, and letting it dry before use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T17:00:57.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8280" CreationDate="2012-09-02T20:10:05.947" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you met the victory conditions: not too many people dead, and all the dolls gone. (Unless there's a &quot;you can't win by dying&quot; clause; I don't own the game.) True, it's not the best rules writing - the victory condition is basically equivalent to at least half the heroes destroying their dolls while still alive. But here's a lot of badly written rules text in the haunts in Betrayal; at least in this case it's still clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of feeling let down: would it have bothered you as much if you'd died first, then your friend destroyed his doll? Probably not. But of course, it's silly for that to be a win and your game not to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-09-02T20:10:05.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8274" CreationDate="2012-09-03T02:33:55.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, the Zombie Lord is not a zombie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, logically he wouldn't be a zombie, because if he was they would just say &lt;strong&gt;kill the zombie lord&lt;/strong&gt; for the requirements for winning the game (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/BHH_SurvivalRev_120105.pdf&quot;&gt;page 25&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the rules for that haunt remind you that the &lt;strong&gt;Holy Symbol&lt;/strong&gt; that affects &lt;strong&gt;all Zombies&lt;/strong&gt;, doesn't affect the Zombie Lord:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have the Holy Symbol, all Zombies who make Might attacks against you roll two fewer dice. (This doesn't affect the Zombie Lord.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It hasn't been confusion for many other players, so no additional information appears in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, or on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/spsearch.php?objectid=10547&amp;amp;objecttype=thing&amp;amp;q=%22Zombie%20Lord%22&amp;amp;searchauthor=&amp;amp;forumid=66&amp;amp;searchfield=all&amp;amp;displayresults=excerpt&amp;amp;B1=Submit&quot;&gt;BGG regarding&lt;/a&gt; the Zombie Lord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T02:33:55.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8301" CreationDate="2012-09-03T03:08:21.663" Score="4" ViewCount="2629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building some EDH decks and I keep running into a problem - lots of mana, no spells to cast. Now, this is moderately acceptable, but only because my opponents are often in the same state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems if I could do something with this mana, I would have the edge. But there seem to be very few mechanics that exist on enough cards to create a theme, but are efficient enough to be worth while. In fact, the only one I've really found is firebreathing. But that's not viable for any non-mono-red deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What mechanics are mana dumps that are plentiful enough to bake into an EDH theme? Do the effects even need to synergize, or should I just take random efficient mana dumps as they come?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T01:27:07.147" Title="What can I do with my late game mana in Commander" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-09-03T05:20:58.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card Draw might just be the solution you are looking for... of course that can be harder in some colors than others, but if you can find ways to spend mana on card advantage, you end up solving both problems you're having. And it's not like &lt;em&gt;decking&lt;/em&gt; is frequently a problem in EDH. The down side is of course that an efficient card draw engine is an obvious threat to other players. Get too good at and you'll paint a big old bullseye on yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T05:20:58.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8288" CreationDate="2012-09-03T11:05:32.150" Score="3" ViewCount="3911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played with a guy who had a deck full of vampires and whenever one of his vampire attacks/deals combat damage/etc that vampire or all of his vampires get +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I effectively counter that strategy? I was thinking about cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hex%20Parasite&quot;&gt;Hex Parasite&lt;/a&gt;. My deck is mainly green/red but I'm open to new ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T15:22:25.157" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T10:50:52.423" Title="How to counter an aggro deck with massive +1/+1 counter packing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8287" CreationDate="2012-09-03T14:48:21.940" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you are talking about a Black/Red Vampire Standard deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curse%20of%20Stalked%20Prey&quot;&gt;Curse of Stalked Prey&lt;/a&gt; as the card that generates the counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hex Parasite is probably a bad idea, as it will completely hog your mana supply. You have to pay mana to remove counters which he put on basically for free. You may be able to eat the counters, but the creatures will still hurt you with their base power and you will be unable to cast anything significant for additional defense. Since you are talking about a G/R deck, you won't have a lot of black mana available either, so you typically pay life (Phyrexian mana) to reduce damage - so Hex Parasite is not only mana-intensive, it doesn't even save you any life loss. Hex Parasite is clearly an offensive utility creature, not defensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A much better strategy is to simply beat down on your opponent better than he does, or to attack Curse of the Stalked Prey or the creatures themselves, without which the Curse is useless. With Green/Red, you should be able to pursue both strategies efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+%5BG%5D&amp;amp;format=%7C%5B%22Standard%22%5D&amp;amp;text=+%5Bdestroy%5D+%5Benchantment%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Green is known for being able to handle enchantments&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;format=%7C%5B%22Standard%22%5D&amp;amp;color=+%5BR%5D&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22each%20creature%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;red is good at destroying lots of small creatures with damage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically your strategy is to never let the enemy attacks gain any momentum. Put out some creatures of your own, especially green ones, which should be more efficient ( = more power/toughness per cost) than your opponent's black and red ones. If he manages to build a large army because of a stalemate, create card advantage by sweeping the board clear of creatures with your red spells (card advantage: you have more cards in hand and battlefield combined than your opponent). If you just want to go for a straight damage race, just make sure you get rid of the Curses with enchantment destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T15:31:47.127" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T15:31:47.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8296" CreationDate="2012-09-03T15:42:56.373" Score="1" ViewCount="800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw this card: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/dka/en/23.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sudden Disappearance&lt;/a&gt;. Suppose I use it in my first main step.&#xA;I attack while my opponent has his cards exiled. At the end step he gets them back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: Will those cards have summoning sickness when his turn comes? (for creatures)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T10:57:12.473" Title="What happens if I use Sudden Disappearance?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-03-24T01:43:10.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8289" CreationDate="2012-09-03T15:48:42.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;His creatures will not have summoning sickness and can attack normally.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule informally known as &lt;em&gt;summoning sickness&lt;/em&gt; says that a creature permanent cannot attack or use abilities with the tap or untap symbol in their costs if its controller did not control it from the beginning of his last turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that rule does not apply here, since your opponent got his permanents back during your turn, even if it's at the end of your turn. He will start his turn with all permanents in play, so summoning sickness is not an issue for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T18:27:31.677" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T18:27:31.677" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-03T16:23:32.563" Score="15" ViewCount="3286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played an odd game of Shadow Hunters the other day. There were five players: two Shadows, two Hunters and one Neutral. I was dealt the Neutral, Charles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the unaware, his win condition states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the time you kill another character, the total number of dead characters is 3 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His special ability is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After you attack, you may give yourself 2 points of damage to attack the same character again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partway through the game, the following situation presented itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It was my turn and I'd just attacked a player that was so damaged one more attack would surely kill them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was within two points of death&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One character had already died&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I declared that I was going to use my ability, revealing my card, and electing to attack the wounded player again, given that I would take two damage in doing so. I rolled a good attack and killed the player in question. I then subtracted my two damage killing myself. Three characters were dead, as my win condition required. My group were happy to award me the win under such strange circumstances, but I'd like to clarify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this a legitimate move in this scenario? Did I win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, given that the already-dead character was a Shadow and the nearly-dead character was a Hunter, was this the only way I could have achieved a solo victory in this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-04T17:11:40.983" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T01:42:48.660" Title="I killed myself, did I win?" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8295" CreationDate="2012-09-03T19:28:47.387" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;Merrimac Coup&quot; in bridge usually refers to the &quot;suicidal&quot; lead of a king, in order to force out an opposing ace before the opponent is ready to use the ace as an entry. If that hand (usually dummy) is short of entries, this might cause &quot;transportation&quot; problems in establishing and cashing a long suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I can see that dummy has a broken long suit, and a side ace. Would this be a good time to try the Merrimac Coup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I am the opening leader, with a king. Are situations based on the bidding and my holding where I should try a Merrimac Coup before seeing dummy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there situations where declarer was originally a responder, and might be short of entries, so that I should try a Merrimac Coup into the &quot;closed&quot; hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And can there be a Merrimac Coup with a card other than a king? Suppose I have A-Q of a suit as opening leader, lead the ace, and see a king  (plus a long suit) in dummy. Would the lead of the queen to dummy's king constitute a Merrimac Coup?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T00:27:28.387" Title="How to identify when to try a &quot;Merriamac Coup&quot; in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8298" CreationDate="2012-09-03T20:52:20.000" Score="4" ViewCount="1484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Elder Sign abilities seem really powerful in big groups.  One of them allows you to re-roll 2 dice every turn, and several others do things like switching a die from Terror to Scroll, or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When can these abilities be used?  Are they only for the current player, or can they be used on other players' turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T13:34:42.430" Title="When can abilities be used in Elder Sign?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2012-09-03T22:46:35.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing low to Q, and then towards the K, covering RHO's card if RHO follows seems the right play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If RHO shows out when you play towards the K, you can rise with the K and play towards the T the second trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basically 100% (caters to 3-2, 4-1 and 5-0 splits!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option of playing to the K loses to the singleton A over the K, losing two more tricks to the J9x over the QTx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is intuitively similar to the combination&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A9xx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;opposite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KJxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where you need 3 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct play is to play the K, and then play towards the A9x, covering whatever LHO plays. If LHO fails to follow suit, you go up with the A, and play towards the J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual way to attack suit combination problems is to try and count the number of combinations where a line of play works. This can be time consuming at first, but in most cases, you can work out a reasonable line (not necessarily the best line) at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2012-09-03T22:52:11.550" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T22:52:11.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2012-09-03T23:21:22.480" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends. If you think declarer hasn't got enough tricks after your sacrifice of the K, and would absolutely need to establish dummy's suit, then yes, you could try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is theoretically possible to execute the Merrimac on the opening lead, but the situation would probably be very rare. I haven't seen any, but I suppose given some time, we can cook up an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, Merrimac can also be done on the closed hand, if you have a good enough read of the hand (which you should strive to, in any case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, using the Q to knock out the K can also be termed as a Merrimac Coup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if I answered your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-09-03T23:21:22.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8289" CreationDate="2012-09-04T05:49:57.933" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, his creatures will not have summoning sickness.&lt;/strong&gt; He will control them continuously since the beginning of &lt;strong&gt;his turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T05:49:57.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8297" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T13:15:09.827" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Avalon Hill board game, the cruiser &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; is the flagship of a fleet of eight transports carrying 5,000 soldiers for the occupation of Midway. As such, it &quot;represents&quot; the transports and sinking the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; is tantamount sinking the transports. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This move is worth some 20 points, four for the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; itself, and 16 for each turn (on days 3 and 4) that the Americans hold Midway. Moreover, it deprives Japan of the chance to earn 15 points for capturing Midway, for a total swing of 35 points. For comparison, sinking a large carrier such as Japan's &lt;em&gt;Kaga&lt;/em&gt; or America's &lt;em&gt;Yorktown&lt;/em&gt; is worth 10 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan cannot defend the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; against an all out attack. The only way to (indirectly) defend it is to (greatly) weaken the American airforce on the first day. As a practical matter, if the Americans lose their carriers but preserve 30 squadrons on Midway, it can sink the &lt;em&gt;Atago.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed in a previous question, the Americans maintain their advantage only by staying within range of Midway-based planes. If they go outside this range, they will be at a disadvantage. Might it therefore make sense for the Americans to wait for the Japanese to &quot;come and get them&quot; with the &lt;em&gt;Atago?&lt;/em&gt; (This was NOT the strategy used in real life, where the Americans aggressively, and successfully went after the Japanese carriers early on the second day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:05:44.657" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T17:05:44.657" Title="In Midway, would it make sense for the U.S. player to save his &quot;punch&quot; for the arrival of the Atago on Day 2?" Tags="|midway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8293" CreationDate="2012-09-04T13:34:42.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You aren't the only one confused. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/699351/vincent-lee-vs-ithaqua&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Several threads&lt;/a&gt; on BGG indicate that many people have had the exact &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/700862/ok-so-to-be-clear-once-per-turn-means&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;same question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elder Sign FAQ&lt;/a&gt; has made some clarification on this matter (page 2), at least regarding &lt;strong&gt;Mandy Thompson&lt;/strong&gt; (she has the &amp;quot;re-roll 2 dice every turn&amp;quot; ability):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mandy Thompson’s ability should read:&lt;/strong&gt; Once per day, after any player has rolled, Mandy may reroll 2 dice before determining if the active player was able to defeat a task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carolyn Fern&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Vincent Lee&lt;/strong&gt; have received similar errata that modifies their &amp;quot;once per turn&amp;quot; into &amp;quot;once per day.&amp;quot; Character abilities are further clarified (page 4), by how the ability is worded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can investigator abilities be used on other players’ turns?&lt;/strong&gt; - Most investigator abilities have a trigger that determines when they can be used. So, for instance, &lt;strong&gt;Bob Jenkins&lt;/strong&gt;’ Shrewd Dealer ability (When Bob gains 1 or more Common Items, he gets 1 extra Common Item) can trigger during any investigator’s turn, if Bob somehow gains a Common Item. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does “Once per roll” mean?&lt;/strong&gt; - These abilities may be used only on that investigator’s turn, once per roll of the dice. Note that re-rolling the dice via Clue tokens or other effects does not give another use of the ability. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does “Once per day” mean?&lt;/strong&gt; - Several investigators have been errata’ed so that their abilities function “once per day.” This means that once the investigator has used his ability, he cannot use it again until after midnight has occurred. Once per day abilities can be used during other investigators’ turns. Exactly when is detailed in the ability itself&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T13:34:42.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-09-04T14:22:37.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card Draw&lt;/strong&gt; is the solution you are looking for. If you have lots of mana, and no spells to cast, and your opponents are in the same boat then you guys aren't using your cards efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for specific cards for your decks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lyzolda%2C%20the%20Blood%20Witch&quot;&gt;Lyzolda, the Blood Witch&lt;/a&gt; Commander&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necropotence&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt; &amp;gt;&amp;gt; (budget) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Etchings&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Etchings&lt;/a&gt; - The best card draw available in black. Alternatives that aren't nearly as good &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Minions%27%20Murmurs&quot;&gt;Minions&amp;#39; Murmurs&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Greed&quot;&gt;Greed&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Lim-Dul&quot;&gt;Oath of Lim-Dul&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skeletal%20Scrying&quot;&gt;Skeletal Scrying&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Arena&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Arena&lt;/a&gt; &amp;gt;&amp;gt; (budget) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gravestorm&quot;&gt;Gravestorm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Night%20Dealings&quot;&gt;Night Dealings&lt;/a&gt; has some synergy with your commander, but works even better in multiplayer with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pestilence&quot;&gt;Pestilence&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyrohemia&quot;&gt;Pyrohemia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thrashing%20Wumpus&quot;&gt;Thrashing Wumpus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pestilence%20Demon&quot;&gt;Pestilence Demon&lt;/a&gt; (et. al.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Decree%20of%20Pain&quot;&gt;Decree of Pain&lt;/a&gt;  &amp;gt;&amp;gt; (budget) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dregs%20of%20Sorrow&quot;&gt;Dregs of Sorrow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Craving&quot;&gt;Ancient Craving&lt;/a&gt; &amp;gt;&amp;gt; (budget) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hoarder%27s%20Greed&quot;&gt;Hoarder&amp;#39;s Greed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Uril%2C%20the%20Miststalker&quot;&gt;Uril, the Miststalker&lt;/a&gt; Commander&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keen%20Sense&quot;&gt;Keen Sense&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snake%20Umbra&quot;&gt;Snake Umbra&lt;/a&gt;. It is always fun to throw this on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ifh-B%C3%ADff%20Efreet&quot;&gt;Ifh-B&amp;#237;ff Efreet&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Squallmonger&quot;&gt;Squallmonger&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warmonger&quot;&gt;Warmonger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lovisa%20Coldeyes&quot;&gt;Lovisa Coldeyes&lt;/a&gt; Commander&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red doesn't have good card draw, so you are going to have to resort to the best artifact card draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%27s%20Eye&quot;&gt;Mind&amp;#39;s Eye&lt;/a&gt;, EDH staple&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tower%20of%20Fortunes&quot;&gt;Tower of Fortunes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Jar&quot;&gt;Memory Jar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staff%20of%20Nin&quot;&gt;Staff of Nin&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urza%27s%20Blueprints&quot;&gt;Urza&amp;#39;s Blueprints&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angelheart%20Vial&quot;&gt;Angelheart Vial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Farsight%20Mask&quot;&gt;Farsight Mask&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bottled%20Cloister&quot;&gt;Bottled Cloister&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindstorm%20Crown&quot;&gt;Mindstorm Crown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and many more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T14:22:37.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2012-09-04T16:39:30.343" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of any official rulings on the game, but I would not interpret that as a win for Charles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sticking point is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the time you &lt;strong&gt;kill another character&lt;/strong&gt;, the total number of dead characters is 3 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what was the total number of dead characters when you killed the Hunter? Your interpretation is that it was 3, because a Shadow was dead, the Hunter was dead, and Charles was dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't think this works - at the time you killed the Hunter, Charles &lt;em&gt;must have been alive&lt;/em&gt;; dead characters can't attack, after all. Thus, Charles would have died &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; killing the Hunter, which means that at the time you killed the Hunter the total number of dead characters was 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, the reason why this situation is confusing is because Charles &lt;em&gt;should not have been able to attack at all&lt;/em&gt;. I'm not sure if it's an official rule (I'll check later), but a lot of other game mechanics assume that if you reach maximum damage at any point during your turn, your turn ends and your character is dead - for instance, if you have two health remaining and draw the Spider card, you're dead and your turn ends, you don't get to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Charles' ability deals two damage to him &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; allows him to attack, by triggering your ability you should have simply died without doing anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the last part of your question, I think there is no way for Charles to be the sole winner in a five player game. As soon as three people who aren't him are dead, the game is over; thus, he either wins a joint victory alongside the Shadows or the Hunters (by taking the last kill), or he doesn't win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2730" LastEditorUserId="2730" LastEditDate="2012-09-05T17:30:19.237" LastActivityDate="2012-09-05T17:30:19.237" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-09-04T18:17:30.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with the other answers, when the problem is &amp;quot;lots of mana, no spells to cast&amp;quot; the most obvious answer is &amp;quot;draw more spells somehow&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I thought I'd take a look at the problem from a slightly different angle: if your deck consistently has more mana than spells to cast, maybe the problem is the deck's mana curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ideal mana curve means you constantly have spells to cast, and the spells your draw and have in hand get more and more powerful as your mana base builds. Maybe your deck has too many cheap spells but not enough expensive threats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you go too far, early in the game you don't have enough mana to play the spells in hand. However, there are many keywords in magic that help you &amp;quot;cheat&amp;quot; on your mana curve by increasing the power of your spells or increasing your card advantage when you spend a little extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keywords that help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cycling&lt;/strong&gt;: Cast a big spell later, or ramp/replace the card early if you don't yet have the mana base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kicker/Multikicker&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Replicate&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Echo&lt;/strong&gt;: Spend extra mana for a bigger effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buyback&lt;/strong&gt;: Easy way to get more spells? Don't put the cast spell in the graveyard. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flashback&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Retrace&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Unearth&lt;/strong&gt;: Another way to get more spells? After they hit your graveyard, cast them again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evoke&lt;/strong&gt;: You can play something big later, or gain advantage early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forecast&lt;/strong&gt;: You can play something big later, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; gain advantage early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miracle&lt;/strong&gt;: You can play something big later — or if you're lucky, sooner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suspend&lt;/strong&gt;: You can play something big later or… uh… later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cumulative upkeep&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arctic%20Nishoba&quot;&gt;Arctic Nishoba&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Magmatic%20Core&quot;&gt;Magmatic Core&lt;/a&gt; might be nice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Level up&lt;/strong&gt;: Make your board stronger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are more… but that's a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T18:17:30.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7387" CreationDate="2012-09-04T19:10:21.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Necrons are a fairly solid codex right now.  They don't have any glaring issues like some of the older codexes do.  They come with very impressive shooting and decent resilience.  I would say they are a top-tier army this edition, but they aren't all-powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not the greatest army in melee.  They have units that can be good at melee(Overlords, Wraiths, C'Tan, several of the elite choices), but the core of the army(Warriors and Immortals) won't stand up very well in assault.  And those units that are good tend to be fairly expensive.  Lynchgaurd and Pretorions cost the same as TH/SS Terminators but are just not quite as good.  6th edition is shaping up to have an even bigger emphasis on troops than 5th, so it's probably not wise to overpay for average quality assault units.  Wraiths and Command Barge Overlords tend to be the exception.  These are assault units that will find their way into most competitive Necron armies.  Scarabs are a special case since they are really only effective against vehicles, but, boy, are they effective:)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the Necrons at first glance seem very resilient, a competent opponent that knows your codex can compensate for that advantage.  High strength/low AP weaponry can make short work of Necron vehicles even with their Quantum Shielding.  Since Necron vehicles are opened top any penetrating AP1 hit will destroy you on a 3+.   Reanimation protocols can also be overcome if your opponent focuses fire effectively.  If a whole unit is knocked down, no one can get up.  Plus the inclusion of precision shots could allow opponents to knock out your res-orbs at an inopportune time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Necorns also don't have as wide a range of allies open to them as some other codexes.  Though they need them to be competitive a lot less than some others.  And they can ally with Grey Knighs...'nough said about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had mentioned how many Necron assault units where expensive.  That's a trend with many of the options in the codex.  While there are many units that are cheep and effective(Warriors, Nightscythes, Annihilation Barges) there are others that can end up costing too much.  The special characters are all very expensive.  The rest of the HQs are decently priced, but you should be weary of giving them too many upgrades.  You won't get a good return on investment if you give them more that 2-3 options. Most of the Elite choices are expensive for what they do.  The efficiency of the cheaper options won't always compensate for the more costly ones.  Necrons are typical of xenos armies with the amount of dead entries present in the Codex.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T19:10:21.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2012-09-04T19:55:10.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can get a beta key (they give out 200 every time the counter runs down on their site) &lt;a href=&quot;http://kaya.gs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;kaya.gs&quot;&gt;kaya.gs&lt;/a&gt; is a good site. They're working on doing everything that KGS does wrong right. I've played a few games there and I must say, its very cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should give it a try or look on their FAQ if you have a minute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3250" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T19:55:10.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2012-09-04T23:45:16.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's important (in my opinion) to build your deck engine around your commander. If I were designing a deck around the commanders you've mentioned, here's what I'd do. I know this isn't specifically what you asked, but drawing more cards is a key part of Commander strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lyzolda&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, she has card draw built in to her. Look for cards that will give you black or red creature tokens (and ideally both, but there's only a couple of those). Also look for ones that are either permanent token generators or can be re-cast from the graveyard.  Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worm%20Harvest&quot;&gt;Worm Harvest&lt;/a&gt; (can be recast many times, and gives you something to do with excess lands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Army%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Army of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; (can be cast twice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bitterblossom&quot;&gt;Bitterblossom&lt;/a&gt; (permanent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodline%20Keeper&quot;&gt;Bloodline Keeper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As supporting cards, black has many instants and sorceries for drawing cards and for searching for specific cards. There's no need to have all of your non-land cards have the same mechanic (in fact, that would be a poorly balanced deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Uril&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, it's key to get Auras onto Uril. Thankfully, White and Green have cards that help you if are playing something Aura-heavy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Verduran%20Enchantress&quot;&gt;Verduran Enchantress&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mesa%20Enchantress&quot;&gt;Mesa Enchantress&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Enchantress&quot;&gt;Argothian Enchantress&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enchantress%27s%20Presence&quot;&gt;Enchantress&amp;#39;s Presence&lt;/a&gt;: all give you card draw when you cast an enchantment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Green%20Sun%27s%20Zenith&quot;&gt;Green Sun&amp;#39;s Zenith&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chord%20of%20Calling&quot;&gt;Chord of Calling&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldly%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Worldly Tutor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Summoner%27s%20Pact&quot;&gt;Summoner&amp;#39;s Pact&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fauna%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Fauna Shaman&lt;/a&gt;: all let you search for creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Academy%20Rector&quot;&gt;Academy Rector&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enduring%20Ideal&quot;&gt;Enduring Ideal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enlightened%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Enlightened Tutor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Idyllic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Idyllic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;: all let you search for enchantments (Enduring Ideal is a bit of a weird one though!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a bunch of creatures with the word &amp;quot;aura&amp;quot; in their description that do cool stuff. Pick all your favorites and your favorite auras and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Lovisa&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mono-colored commander decks are a little trickier. Every color has some way of drawing more cards, so you generally have to rely on that. In red's case, you are usually (but not always) &amp;quot;looting&amp;quot;, i.e. discarding either before or after you draw. As another poster mentions, artifact draw can also help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Faithless%20Looting&quot;&gt;Faithless Looting&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dangerous%20Wager&quot;&gt;Dangerous Wager&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20of%20the%20Court&quot;&gt;Control of the Court&lt;/a&gt;: all examples of looting cards - these can really help think your deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wheel%20of%20Fortune&quot;&gt;Wheel of Fortune&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wheel%20of%20Fate&quot;&gt;Wheel of Fate&lt;/a&gt;: ways to replenish your hand if it's empty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Koth%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chandra%20Ablaze&quot;&gt;Chandra Ablaze&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chandra%2C%20the%20Firebrand&quot;&gt;Chandra, the Firebrand&lt;/a&gt;: all of these planeswalkers have good mid to late game abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2491" LastActivityDate="2012-09-04T23:45:16.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-04T23:54:02.510" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a standard forcing game, you the defender, may have four (or more) trumps, and ypu lead a long suit in which declarer is void in order to force him to ruff, thereby shortening his trumps to your number (or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an uppercut situation, you might have something like Qx. Nevertheless, if you lead a long suit in which both your partner and declarer are void, your partner ruffs with a J, and declarer (sitting to your right with AK ) is forced to overuff with a king, you and partner have &quot;shortened&quot; his high trumps enough so that he can no longer capture your queen with AK. So is this a special case of a forcing game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And suppose you are declarer (South) and the final trumps are Q in your hand, 2 in dummy, JT in East. If you lead a suit in which dummy and East are void, and dummy ruffs with his 2, forcing an overuff with the T, so you can now draw East's last trump, does this work like an uppercut? Is there a special name for this kind of play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T23:24:38.553" Title="In bridge, is an &quot;uppercut&quot; a special case of a &quot;forcing game?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8305" CreationDate="2012-09-06T00:41:49.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a strict definition of the terms, but usually forcing game is reserved for cases where you strive to get opps to lose trump control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uppercut is to create trump tricks. If people thought it was like forcing, they might not have chosen to name it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the third one, east is not obliged to overruff. so not so sure about that. Crossruff comes to mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T00:41:49.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8315" CreationDate="2012-09-06T13:23:53.880" Score="5" ViewCount="3554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have: (s) Jx (h)KQxx (d) KJxx (c) Kxx. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's 13 points, by the usual count. But I can think of at least two things wrong with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, there are no aces, meaning that the hand has fewer &quot;quick tricks&quot; than the usual 13-pointer. Second, the Jack of spades is &quot;stranded,&quot; meaning that might not be worth a full point because it can be picked off by the opponents. And, of course, there is no five card suit, meaning that you need 13, not 12 to open. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the above negatives detract from your hand? Or must it be opened since you have 13?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2022-01-12T15:58:22.370" Title="In bridge, are there some 13 point hands that should not be opened?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8360" CreationDate="2012-09-06T13:39:54.933" Score="13" ViewCount="3472" Body="&lt;p&gt;When was Naughts and Crosses first released in its current form?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see there were Egyptian and the Roman versions, but these are very different games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3256" LastEditorUserId="5166" LastEditDate="2013-07-15T14:22:15.313" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T14:22:15.313" Title="First modern Naughts and Crosses/Tic Tac Toe?" Tags="|history|tic-tac-toe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8308" CreationDate="2012-09-06T13:45:48.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure the JS is a fairly pointless HCP, but the spade shortness is worth something in a trump game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the kind of hand that should definitely be opened, but only at the 1 level.  The point of opening the hand is to let partner know you've got something, at which point you're looking for a 4-4 heart fit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in my opinion the hand should be opened, a heart response from partner should be supported, and a 'pass' is the probable response to all non-forcing circumstances.  The biggest danger I can see in this hand is falling into the &quot;use NT as an exit if nothing else works&quot; trap instead of following the &quot;when there's no fit, quit&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advertise what you've got, and let partner decide if there's any game here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, that's how I read the hand at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to carry on to the more general question, could there possibly be a hand that technically should be opened, but in fact really shouldn't be?  Sure there is, but it's important to note that it's all dependent on the &lt;em&gt;situation&lt;/em&gt;, and not &lt;em&gt;the hand&lt;/em&gt;.  The main point of opening a &quot;weak opener&quot; is to let your partner know that you've got the points; it follows that the time to NOT open it is when partner &lt;em&gt;doesn't care&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does partner not care what you've got?  When they don't have a hand good enough to do anything about it.  When can you know that's the case? When the situation makes it obvious!  For example, when you're in 4th seat and LHO and RHO have both bid.  LHO obviously has 13+, RHO has 6+, you've got 13, your partner can't have much to talk about; there just aren't enough points in the deck.  When the situation tells you something like that, then you know it's time to sit in the weeds and help the opponents dig themselves into a nice deep hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, yes, you should open a 13 point hand.  Because your partner might really want to know.  But there will be situations (not hands, situations!) where you shouldn't bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like all good rules in bridge, you have to know when the rule doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastEditorUserId="2026" LastEditDate="2012-09-14T15:44:13.313" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T15:44:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8308" CreationDate="2012-09-06T18:08:00.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is such a thing as a hand that &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be opened, of course if you deceive your partner too much they may stop playing with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I'd open 1nt (assuming weak nt) with this hand even without the J so certainly with. The only occasion I might consider passing is if I'm in the fourth seat and partner has already passed, even this is likely to depend on score/vulnerability at the time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="594" LastEditorUserId="594" LastEditDate="2012-09-06T18:20:54.850" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T18:20:54.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8326" CreationDate="2012-09-06T18:42:13.300" Score="10" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a black jack game that does not allow splitting. My question is, do I play A/A as a soft 12 or hard 2? If I play it as a soft 12, do I follow the same hit/stand procedures as say a soft 13 (in other words, double if the dealer shows 5 or 6). Recommendations? Should I ALWAYS play it as soft until it becomes a hard number (provided I'm not at 18 through 21)??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your input&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3259" OwnerDisplayName="KiloJKilo" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-06T20:57:15.457" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T01:20:43.717" Title="BlackJack Game with no splitting" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8308" CreationDate="2012-09-06T23:26:56.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming Standard American (5 card Majors), I'd open this with 1 diamond. If partner responds 1H you can raise to 2H to show how weak you are. With partner bidding 2D you can pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's tough is when partner bids 1S. I personally would rebid 1NT because it best communicates the hand. It denies Spade support, communicates the point count, and truthfully expresses a stopper in every suit but spades. And it does not deny having a 4 card heart suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your general point, yes there are 13 point hands that are better off passed. Two kinds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 3-3-3-4 distribution. This is the worst possible shape for a hand - not just for trump contracts but also for no trump contracts, especially if the 4 card suit is weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 4-4-3-2 distribution where both 4 card suits are minor and the points are scattered around, with no solid suit anywhere (Note: if you swap the clubs and heart suits in your example, that would fit this template and I would pass).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do this not because some book says so, but because I've gotten into trouble bidding such hands far too often. Both of these types of hands are better for defense then offense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event your partner has 13+ there's no risk of being passed out of a game - and if you're partner has 12 or fewer than you'll more often then not find that the zero score you get after the hands are passed out is better than the down 1 or 2 you would have otherwise achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-09-06T23:26:56.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2012-09-07T00:31:33.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For years a group of us in Michigan have played a set of house rules that includes a diplomacy system where you can pay for diplomatic overtures to neutrals to try to sway them to lean toward you ( adding their economy to yours 1$ for sumbness like Rio de Oro, 4$ for Switzerland) and letting you move through their territory or base there.  If you get a spectacular result (11+ on 2 d 6) or two partial results they join you activating their armed forces in your color (rangeing from 1 inf for Rio de Oro to 3 inf a tank and a fighter for Spain).  I agree that attacking one European neutral should not sway the opinion of Asian and American neutrals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3260" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T00:31:33.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3643" CreationDate="2012-09-07T00:37:08.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good solutions.  In our group in MI we have a percentile tech table cross indexed by nationality.  We give a free roll for a 6 each turn (2 for GE)  and charge 4$ for extra rolls.  There are SO MANY techs that the odds of getting heavy bombers is low (and there are also improved bombers that roll 2 d6, and the nuke that lets you for 10$ make a bomb that one of your bombers can use to devestate an enemy area) so if you get them you deserve it (though we do limit the 3d6 to economic damage, not single handedly destroying whole fleets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3260" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T00:37:08.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8321" CreationDate="2012-09-07T05:33:46.287" Score="14" ViewCount="20863" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin (or any of its various sets) the rules say that &quot;You can discard a Class card at any time, even in combat: &quot;I don't want to be a wizard anymore.&quot; When you discard a Class card, you become classless until you play another Class card.&quot; It also says the same thing for Races, Accents, etc. for the various game sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wording suggests that the intent is that you can discard an &quot;in play&quot; Class at any time, but it isn't clear about such cards in the player's hand. I would prefer to discard the extra Elf card in my hand so that my opponent doesn't get it during the Charity phase. &lt;strong&gt;Can I discard the card rather than give it away?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; The rules I am using are the most current rules from the 1st Edition, 23rd printing of Munchkin published May 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastEditorUserId="3238" LastEditDate="2012-09-07T06:07:04.360" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T11:26:49.757" Title="Can I discard a race or class card directly from my hand to avoid charity?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8287" CreationDate="2012-09-07T10:50:52.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're asking us how to beat a certain strategy you need to tell us what deck you're playing so we know your game plan. It's really tough to guess and answers will be very different depending on if you play a ramp/aggro/control/combo strat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always focus on your own deck first! You want to &lt;strong&gt;win the game before he does&lt;/strong&gt;, not &quot;make him not win&quot; or &quot;make him win slower&quot;. That could be a part of the plan but you still have to win before he does. So focus on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T10:50:52.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8289" CreationDate="2012-09-07T10:57:12.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will have summoning sickness when they enter the battlefield. But since they enter on your turn it will disappear when the turn changes (and it becomes his turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, they will not have it during his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T10:57:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8318" CreationDate="2012-09-07T14:03:26.860" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't voluntarily discard a card from your hand, you can only play it or give it away.  But you can freely discard races and classes in play or sell items in play. During charity you can play cards instead of giving them away if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can play a race, discard it, play a race, discard it, wash, rinse, repeat.  Unless you had some type of curse preventing you from discarding your race; then you are stuck having to give it away to someone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T14:03:26.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2012-09-07T18:38:57.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't any rules for it. If you're getting tired of the same person being the traitor, then make a house rule based loosely on the rules for skipping haunts, and you can go back to having fun again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can just keep playing; it's only been three games so far.  What are the odds that the same person is the traitor again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, I realize the odds are the same each time.  But even with just 3 players, it's less than 50% each time.  The traitor should be a different player after just one or two more games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here are a few quick-and-dirty ways to select a different player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the next-most-appropriate player.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the traitor is the haunt revealer, select the next player to the left.  Give them the Omen that caused the haunt.  (I considered only giving them the Omen if it was relevant, but that could reveal some information about the haunt.  So give it to them regardless of whether it's relevant or not.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the traitor is the player with the highest [trait], select the player with the next-highest [trait].  If the stat is particularly relevant to the haunt (i.e., you need to beat the Traitor at that particular trait, or that trait is highly relevant to the Heroes' success and the haunt wanted to deny that advantage to the Heroes), select a different haunt using the standard rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick somebody else randomly.  Give them the Omen that caused the haunt, if the haunt revealer is supposed to be the Traitor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the standard rules to select a different haunt, until the selected Traitor is someone else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T20:52:02.410" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T20:52:02.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2439" CreationDate="2012-09-07T18:52:01.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;@thesunneversets gives a fantastic overview, so I just have this to add: I've found that it's easier to meet your basic food needs in Le Havre than in Agricola. In Le Havre, you're making a profit while trying not to forget about collecting enough food. In Agricola, you're trying to collect food and occasionally making a profit, which is quite appropriate for a farming game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only played each game once, but some of my gaming group has played both games much more, and I'm passing along their opinion along with my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-09-07T18:52:01.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8310" CreationDate="2012-09-08T16:30:03.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia mentions the following under &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tic-tac-toe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tic-tac-toe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'The first print reference to &quot;noughts and crosses&quot;, the British name, appeared in 1864. The first print reference to a game called &quot;tick-tack-toe&quot; occurred in 1884, but referred to &quot;a children's game played on a slate, consisting in trying with the eyes shut to bring the pencil down on one of the numbers of a set, the number hit being scored&quot;.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since this game is mostly played by children, I would assume that this would be the first reference to the current form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game evolved from Three Men's Morris where each player had to keep 3 pieces each alternately on any of the 9 boxes and move the pieces around to form a straight line. To simplify it to children, the latter part of the game was replaced by continuing to keep more pieces and fill all 9 boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3261" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T16:30:03.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8314" CreationDate="2012-09-08T16:58:45.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no expert but this would be my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would play it as a soft 12, like a soft 13, and hold on to a good position (18 to 21) unless it becomes a hard number. This seems to be the most practical solution I could think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3261" LastActivityDate="2012-09-08T16:58:45.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8333" CreationDate="2012-09-09T14:13:28.933" Score="4" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once read in a book about a &quot;backward&quot; finesse. You, declarer, have AJ9, and dummy has Kxx.&#xA;Ordinarily, you would finesse twice from dummy toward AJ9. Except that your left hand opponent has indicated by a bid (or double) that he has the queen. If that's the case, you apparently finish &quot;backwards&quot; by leading the J, and covering with the K in dummy if the left hand opponent covers. Then you lead back an x to the A9 on the theory that right hand opponent is more likely to have the T. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another, apparently similar type of finesse is what I call a round trip finesse. You have K854&#xA;opposite QT32, and you're apparently finessing for the A, J, and maybe the 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8281/how-do-you-decide-which-way-to-finesse-for-an-ace&quot;&gt;How do you decide which way to finesse for an ace?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you finesse toward the QT32, then back toward K854.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third kind of finesse is sometimes called a two way finesse. That is, you have ATxx in hand, dummy has KJxx, and you are finessing for the queen. By counting, or other means, you determine that West/East is short in the suit. Then you win the K/A, to drop a presumed singleton, and then finesse the other way for the queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these finesses differ from what I call &quot;one way&quot; finesses, low in one hand toward, say AQ, or AQT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the rationale behind the two directional finesses? Is the two way finesse a special case of the &quot;one way&quot; finesse or more like the other two directional finesses. And is the reason for a two directional finesse the fact that opposing honors are more likely to be split than to be concentrated in either opposing hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T05:44:02.753" Title="Different kinds of &quot;two direction&quot; finesses in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5168" CreationDate="2012-09-09T14:35:07.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of &quot;ducking&quot; is so that you can &quot;run&quot; the remaining tricks in your suit, or in your hand. I don't like the term, because I'm confused by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have Kxx of a suit, and dummy has Axxxx of the suit. One way of establishing it is to play your two top cards, and then give up &quot;duck&quot; a trick to the master card in a presumed 3-2 split. IF dummy regains the lead, it can win two more long tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that dummy may have responded with as little as the A and a side queen, or the A and two jacks, and have no more entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to establish the suit (against a 3-2 split) is to lose the first trick by playing low from both hands, win the second trick in the suit in your hand (when you regain the lead), which is a form of &quot;unblocking,&quot; and win the third trick in dummy with your ace. Then run the remaining two tricks. Thus, the ace serves a dual function as a winner AND an entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the issue is not WHETHER you duck, but WHEN you duck (on the first trick or the third). If your opponents are going to win a trick ANYWAY, then give it to them &quot;early&quot; to save an entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example with a safety play. Dummy has AKQxx of a suit, you have xxx (or even xx). As responder, dummy's nine points in the suit means no other entry. You need four tricks in the suit to make your contract. You can take the three toppers in dummy, and hope that opposing cards drop 3-2 (or 3-3). To guard against one opponent with four cards in the suit, you make the &quot;safety play&quot; of losing the first trick by playing low from hand and dummy. When you regain the lead, your three toppers &quot;clear&quot; the suit, and the remaining long card scores your fourth trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another commentator also pointed out that you duck to &quot;rectify the count&quot; for a squeeze, which allows you to &quot;run&quot; the remaining tricks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same person also pointed out that you shouldn't duck if it represents the setting trick (except, perhaps in duplicate, where you accept &quot;down one&quot; to prevent &quot;down more than one.&quot;) Then you might try a finesses, squeeze, pseudo-squeeze or &quot;drop,&quot; play, even against the odds, as your best hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-09-09T14:35:07.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-09T20:26:33.340" Score="4" ViewCount="1940" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've recently received Betrayal at House on the Hill, and I'm smitten. I'm also learning Java in my spare time. I thought it would be pretty cool to team up with my friend, who's had more experience with this, and make a very similar game in Java.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue we have is that we don't know all of the Haunts yet, so we can't program them either. My though was that all of the Haunts follow one of a set of patterns we could emulate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find items before X happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find items AND do Y before X happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kill Monsters X (and/or y)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kill Monster X with Weapon Y&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destroy item &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Granted I haven't played more than a handful of haunts, but they all seem to play along a pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a full list of all the ways haunts play out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T14:45:51.517" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T20:53:15.693" Title="Do all the haunts in Betrayal at House on the Hill follow a pattern?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-10T03:20:47.883" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Chapter 4 long-term (blue) event card, there's one that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;Each player may trade 1 cloth for 3 VP&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were a one-time card, there wouldn't be any issues. However, as this is a blue permanent card, there might be different ways to interpret this text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do this once in Chapter IV, does not matter when.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do this once per turn, may be at a specified time, such as after an event card is placed, and before the personal income is resolved (i.e., at the time when the grey one-time cards are usually resolved)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do this as many times as you want on your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, Option 1 is not really compatible with the concept of a permanent card, and tracking who used it, and who has not, is difficult. Options 2 and 3 seem to give too much to the player who happened to have the wool and/or cloth in Chapter 4: otherwise, one cloth would be worth 2 points if you sell it for money, the second cloth would be worth 2 points if you played &quot;Privilege&quot; to sell it, as well, and others would not be worth anything. One of the players managed to get 12 or 15 points with this card though in our recent game (although she still lost to a powerful project builder); we played it as Option 2. I was unprepared enough to discard my &quot;Cloth production&quot; in the first turn of Chapter 4 before this blue card appeared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any official explanations for this card? What are the existing house rules for this card? One possible way to mitigate its power is to say that you can trade cloth for VP in place of your action, for instance -- nothing except for &quot;Build project&quot; can give you 3 VP at once, and one, obviously, is not allowed to play it four or five times in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-07T18:42:02.060" LastActivityDate="2018-10-07T18:42:02.060" Title="Kingsbridge Scarlet: trade 1 cloth for 3 VP" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8314" CreationDate="2012-09-10T14:10:09.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're obviously going to hit, so the only question is whether to double or not.  Since you have about a 70% chance of ending at something 16 or lower on a double, you really have to be looking for the dealer to bust. There's no chance of you busting, so if the dealer is showing a lousy card like a 5 or a 6, doubling seems to make sense.  Otherwise, I'd just take a hit and proceed from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T14:10:09.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8334" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:40:31.463" Score="0" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I select Research during the role phase, does the symbol on the role card count towards the requirements for the technology I acquire or not?  In other words, if I want to acquire &quot;Improved Survey&quot;, do I need 3 Research cards in my hand, or just 2 (assuming I have no other research symbols)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T16:56:29.753" Title="When using the Research role, does the symbol on the role card count towards meeting the cost?" Tags="|eminent-domain|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8327" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:53:14.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple, unhelpful reason/rationale is that it gives you the best chances under the circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AJ9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need 3 tricks and know that LHO has the Q. Your best shot is to play RHO for the Ten, (which is ~50% assuming no other information is given). Playing the J first sets up the finesse position for the Ten. (Consider a similar one way situation, xxx opposite AJ9. Needing two tricks, you first play to the 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try playing the AK to drop the singleton Q or doubleton QT, but that is inferior in terms of chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember reading a book where in one of the problem hands, the right play in trumps was to  finesse one way, and if that wins, repeat the finesse the other way! (I might add the hand later if I remember it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if that helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T16:53:14.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8332" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:56:29.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0079/2102/files/Instruction_Manual_-_WEB_-_2011.04.01.pdf?363&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may Boost the chosen role by playing any number of cards from your hand with symbols matching that role. Symbols on face up planets in your Empire may also be used to Boost the Role. Cards played during the Action Phase do not contribute to Boosting the Role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the role cards have one symbol on the card which counts towards the effect of the role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if you take a Research Role, you need only two more research symbols on either the face-up planets in your empire and/or cards in hand in order to acquire &lt;em&gt;Improved Survey&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T16:56:29.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14033" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:56:57.070" Score="9" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Zombicide just state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make a deck with the Zombie cards and another one with the Equipment cards, then place them face down, close to the gameboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly the equipment cards needed to be shuffled as when supplied, they are sorted so all the cards are grouped together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Zombie cards are all numbered in the upper right corner, and do in general get harder as the numbers increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a recent game with a shuffled deck the first spawn resulted in the Abomination appearing, which completely outclassed our party and resulted in a very quick finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flip side of that would obviously be the fact that with the harder cards spawned earlier, if we had survived, we'd be playing against less zombies in the later stages of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be shuffling the deck or playing it in order? The order of the rooms and which spawn point we start from should provide a reasonable amount of variation even with an ordered deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T17:05:21.667" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T19:00:54.963" Title="Should I shuffle the Zombicide zombie &quot;deck&quot;" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11339" CreationDate="2012-09-10T16:57:22.427" Score="6" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules for &lt;em&gt;Evil Baby Orphanage&lt;/em&gt;, it says for Bad Toys that &quot;you may discard the toy from your Orphanage to cause any Evil Baby to take it's Unsupervised Actions during your Activity Step.&quot; Does this mean that I can discard a Bad Toy to make another Time-Nanny's Evil Baby do their Unsupervised Action during &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; Activity Step? The people I play with have assumed up until this point that you could only do this to your own Evil Babies, but in rereading the rules, this isn't actually clear. In fact, the word &quot;any&quot; seems to indicate that this can be done to other Evil Babies. The ability to cause other Evil Babies to do their Unsupervised Actions seems like a very powerful ability and would drastically change the flow of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We discovered that we initially thought it only applied to your own baby because the player cards are worded differently than the instructions. They read: &quot;you may discard the toy from your Orphanage to cause &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;an&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Evil Baby to take it's Unsupervised Actions during your Activity Step.&quot; This was the original cause of our assumption; this doesn't seem to indicate that you could target other Time-Nanny's Evil Babies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T17:43:44.503" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T17:43:44.503" Title="Can I use Bad Toys on other people's babies?" Tags="|evil-baby-orphanage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8342" CreationDate="2012-09-10T17:24:59.823" Score="9" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is based on the following situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a five person game, there has a been a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=49053&quot;&gt;Timesifter&lt;/a&gt; in play and the turn order has already been varied for a few turns. A player plays a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129677&quot;&gt;Time Stretch&lt;/a&gt; and I target the card with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=34250&quot;&gt;Radiate&lt;/a&gt;. What happens next, and subsequently, what happens when the person with Timesifter is eliminated from the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an immediate result, I assume that the person who was targeted with the original Time Stretch takes the next turn, which results in a trigger of the Timesifter, sending us back into a whirlwind of turn order that is dictated by the artifact. I'm relatively certain this is correct, although an affirmation would be nice. But, when the person with the Timesifter dies, where does the turn order go? Are the extra turns from Time Stretch still stacked? Does the original target of the spell take their second turn, followed by everyone else taking two extra turns in normal turn order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T20:03:21.707" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T20:03:21.707" Title="What happens when I Radiate a Time Stretch with Timesifter in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|turn-order|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8337" CreationDate="2012-09-10T18:33:25.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the actual turn order is never changed. Rather, there's a stack of extra turns that must be taken before turn order can proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take a look at what happens. Presumably the player playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stretch&quot;&gt;Time Stretch&lt;/a&gt; targeted himself. Let's call him &amp;quot;A&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Time Stretch[A]&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Extra Turn Stack: -empty-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response, you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Radiate&quot;&gt;Radiate&lt;/a&gt;. It resolves. You get to place the copies in the order you desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Time Stretch[A], Time Stretch[you], Time Stretch[B], Time Stretch[C], Time Stretch[D]&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Extra Turn Stack: -empty-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spells start resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: -empty-&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Extra Turn Stack: D,D,C,C,B,B,you,you,A,A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the current turn, the original caster will ge an extra turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra Turn Stack: D,D,C,C,B,B,you,you,A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During his upkeep, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Sifter&quot;&gt;Time Sifter&lt;/a&gt; will give a player an extra turn. Just push that extra turn on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra Turn Stack: D,D,C,C,B,B,you,you,A,C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Time Sifter keeps granting extra turns, so the stack doesn't get a chance to unwind. But what if the Time Sifter or its player were to leave the game? The extra turns have already been granted, so you don't lose them. Then game would continue to unwind the extra turn stack, giving &amp;quot;C&amp;quot; an extra turn, then giving &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; an extra turn, and so on until &amp;quot;D&amp;quot; has taken both of his extra turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T19:41:58.513" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T19:41:58.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8337" CreationDate="2012-09-10T18:34:19.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any turns that are &quot;extra&quot; turns get piled up at the end of the current one in a last-in first-out queue, much like the stack.  So if player 5 won this upkeep's's time sifter and player 2 cast the time stretch on themselves, your extra turn queue looks like this after it's all resolved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22-??-??-??-??-5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the players in the middle, the person who cast the Radiate chooses the order the copies go on the stack, so they choose the order people take their turns in.  (Which will be the &lt;em&gt;opposite&lt;/em&gt; of the order you stack them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the time sifter is going to jump back in and start creating extra turns at the front of the queue when player 2 takes their first extra turn, but that has no effect on this queue of extra turns sitting out there.  When the time sifter leaves play you'll finish taking all these extra turns that have been created and are waiting to happen, then resume regular turn order with the person who would have been next after the very first time sifter trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly recommend you keep a pen and paper handy to track this :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T20:05:50.077" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T20:05:50.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8337" CreationDate="2012-09-10T18:43:21.243" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different things going on here, so it's important to understand the key details.  Those boil down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Nothing in your scenario changes the turn &lt;em&gt;order&lt;/em&gt;.  This is essential, because it's the first guide to understand what's going on.  While Time Sifter looks like it effectively changes the turn order, instead it specifically generates &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; turns itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) This is relevant because the game maintains what amounts to a stack (not to be confused with the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; stack in the game, for resolving spells) of extra turns; any effect that says '~player~ takes an extra turn after this one' adds an extra turn for ~player~ onto that stack.  This is spelled out in rule 500.7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;500.7. Some effects can give a player extra turns. They do this by adding the turns directly after the current turn. If a player gets&#xA;  multiple extra turns or if multiple players get extra turns during a&#xA;  single turn, the extra turns are added one at a time. The most&#xA;  recently created turn will be taken first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at how this works on its own: suppose you're playing a four-player game, players A, B, C, and D (in that order); the turn order would then normally be A B C D A B C D etc.  Now, suppose player A plays a Time Sifter.  At the start of player B's upkeep, the structure of the upcoming turns looks like (using [] to denote the current turn: [B] C D ...  Technically, the game doesn't actually know that C will be taking a turn after B; instead, it knows that the 'present' turn is controlled by B.  I'll denote this by starring that turn: [B*] C D A ...  Now, Time Sifter's effect resolves; we'll say that D wins.  An extra turn for D (we'll label extra turns with a ' symbol, so D') - is 'inserted' after the current turn: [B*] D' C D A ...  Now, B finishes their turn and it goes on to D's extra turn: B* [D'] C D A ...  Assume that now C 'wins' the Time Sifter fight.  Then the turn structure becomes B* [D'] C' C D A ...; D's extra turn finishes, the turn passes to C's extra turn, and the game all the while is remembering that B took the last 'non-extra' turn and that C is next in turn order: B* [C'] C D A ...  Things go on like this until Time Sifter is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Now, the next piece of the puzzle: Radiate's interaction with Time Stretch.  I'll assume that during one of player A's 'extra' turns (so that the current structure is B* [A'] C D A ...) they cast Time Stretch (targeting themselves!), and that player B Radiates it.  As other answers have noted, when Radiate resolves copies of Time Stretch will be generated for players B, C, and D; these copies resolve &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the original Time Stretch does.  I'll presume that player B stacks them with his copy on the bottom, D above, and C's copy on top, so that the resolution will be CDBA; this means that after all the copies and the original Stretch resolve, the 'turn stack' looks like: B* [A'] A' A' B' B' D' D' C' C' C D A ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) From here, Time Sifter will work as normal.  This means that (once A's turn ends) A will start to take the first of their extra turns, putting the Sifter on the stack: B* [A'] A' B' B' D' D' C' C' C D A ...  Now, suppose D wins.  Then a new extra turn for D will be added, but all of the other extra turns are still there: B* [A'] D' A' B' B' D' D' C' C' C D A ... and once the turn passes from A to D, it'll look like B* [D'] A' B' B' D' D' C' C' C D A ... - but all of those extra turns are still hanging out, waiting for Time Sifter to go away somehow so that they can be had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps somewhat - it's obviously a remarkably complex situation, but once you understand what each effect is actually &lt;em&gt;doing&lt;/em&gt; it all flows relatively straightforwardly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2012-09-10T23:47:05.527" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T23:47:05.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8352" CreationDate="2012-09-10T19:27:42.707" Score="6" ViewCount="1377" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Memoir '44, if an infantry unit is surrounded by sandbags, the rules state that the unit &quot;may ignore the first flag rolled against it.&quot; I can come up with two interpretations that seem to have very different implications of the power of a sandbagged unit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In order to force a retreat you must roll two flags during one attack (e.g., roll two dice, get two flags, the unit retreats). Sandbagged units are nearly impossible to force a retreat without resorting to using certain tactic cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can roll one flag on one turn, then on a subsequent turn you may roll another (single) flag, and this forces the sandbagged unit to retreat. Sandbagged units are still difficult to force away, but not nearly as bad as (1).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1908" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T08:03:35.847" Title="How does ignoring the first retreat flag work?" Tags="|memoir-44|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8335" CreationDate="2012-09-10T19:27:47.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that any games that include decks of cards and do not specifically tell you to arrange the cards in a particular order assume that the cards are shuffled prior to playing.  Getting them in order is time consuming and unusual, so it would need to be specifically mentioned if that was the intent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-09-10T19:27:47.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8336" CreationDate="2012-09-10T23:01:10.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone I have played with has interpreted 'any' as being any baby in play.  Does beget a bit of a question regarding babies in the time stream, but I have experienced consensus on other people's babies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2012-09-11T02:04:39.130" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T02:04:39.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8351" CreationDate="2012-09-10T23:46:23.673" Score="13" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day whilst playing an epic, 4-deck game of Munchkin, I found myself well behind and in a position to let someone win so we could quit. I didn't want to leave early (I did anyway!) but the game had gotten out of hand somewhat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it have been ok to King-make? I'm considering a non-game specific answer to this wherever possible. I realise this isn't the sort of thing you do in munchkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T17:39:20.933" Title="When is it ok to king-make?" Tags="|etiquette|end-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12204" CreationDate="2012-09-10T23:55:50.210" Score="11" ViewCount="10215" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day whilst playing betrayal at house on the hill, I died early on and didn't get back on the board as a monster in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to contribute without 'over doing it'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:18:15.473" Title="I died, what can I do until the world ends?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8347" CreationDate="2012-09-11T01:19:36.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before the Haunt happens, you can't die; you just go down to the minimum level on the stat(s) affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you died after the Haunt began, may I suggest spectating, or a game of Solitaire?  Or, depending on how strict your group is, you can still kibitz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T01:19:36.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8350" CreationDate="2012-09-11T04:58:13.067" Score="6" ViewCount="1440" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are the bishop and you were assassinated, are you still protected from the warlord in that turn? I'm guessing you are, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6761/citadels-does-the-crown-switch-hands-if-the-king-is-killed&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; also hints that you are, but the rules are not clear so I wondered whether it really is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T05:36:29.570" Title="Does assassination nullify the bishop's protection?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8349" CreationDate="2012-09-11T05:36:29.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Bishop loses his protection when assassinated. From the last page of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CCQQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/support/citadels-faq.pdf&amp;amp;ei=9MtOULWBCYquiQLo94HYDA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEKZSOanwjkek2W4yweizBtQBuiHg&amp;amp;sig2=s33ez6n3of3mmeDIPd7D1A&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Can the warlord destroy a building of a murdered Bishop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes. Since the Bishop is not present, he is not able to protect his districts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T05:36:29.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8346" CreationDate="2012-09-11T07:52:09.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, king making is contentious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, it's best reserved for when it will allow ending a game &quot;Now-ish&quot; in order to either facilitate a different, more generally enjoyable game, or to allow players to leave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few other conditions where I find it less than unacceptable. These basically boil down to &quot;not letting A have a runaway victory by aiding B.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, it's a matter of allying with B (publicly or not) so that A has some competition because A is in a clear runaway. I've seen this a lot in a variety of public scoring track games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In others, it's quietly avoiding helping A because of A being in the lead, which results in B having a chance. This is most frequent in my plays of Settlers of Catan - no one trades with the leader... In this case, it generally lengthens the game needlessly, as the leader often is able to stay the leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other condition is when the game allows for alliance victories, or as with Dune, one or more players has a kingmaking victory condition. In Dune, the Bene Gesserit win by correctly predicting the turn of victory and the victor - the BG player works very hard to king-make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T07:52:09.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8343" CreationDate="2012-09-11T08:03:35.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite literally, ignoring the first flag means that flag is a &amp;quot;no effect.&amp;quot; It is measured per roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in order to force a retreat, an  a sandbagged unit or unit in a bunker that ignores a flag must have two or more flags rolled against it in order to force its retreat (or additional hits if it can't retreat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Support for this view is in Richard Borg's FAQ dated 4/15/05&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. For artillery in bunkers, flags are treated as a hit. Do they still ignore the first flag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Yes, Bunkers (page 16)&#xA;Basically an artillery unit in a bunker may not retreat. Therefore it must lose one figure for each&#xA;retreat move that cannot be completed. But like all other units in a bunker hex, it may ignore the&#xA;first flag rolled against it. In other words, it takes two flags to make one hit, and three flags to make&#xA;two hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the bunker allows ignoring the first flag... but artillery can not retreat from a bunker, so flags on bunkered arty are hits, not retreats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T08:03:35.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8353" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-11T14:02:40.457" Score="5" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are the declarer at a 3NT contract (1NT, 3NT, no opposing bids). West leads what appears to be a five card suit, and you have Axx in dummy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your main concern is that East can get the setting trick by attacking a vulnerable tenace you have in hand; something like Jxx in the led suit, or AQx in a side suit (and maybe the the answer to the question below is found in the difference between one and the other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At times, you should go up with the ace in dummy (if East has an honor and a small card) to &quot;block&quot; the suit. At other times, you should hold up the ace until the third round to exhaust East of the led suit. How do you tell the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A club kibitzer gave the opinion, &quot;You use a blocking play if you're worried about what will happen in the LED suit (e.g. if your tenace is Jxx, above), and you use a holdup play when you're worried about what will happen in a different suit (e.g, your AQx tenace).&quot; Is there any truth to this statement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't stated whether West led from &quot;top of a sequence&quot; or &quot;fourth best,&quot; but maybe the answer to question lies in the difference between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because another take of this matter is &quot;avoidance.&quot; That is, if the priority is to keep East off lead, then let West win if he led a high card, and cover if West led fourth best, to prevent East from getting the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been told that if I have something like Axx in hand opposite xx in dummy, I should hold up, and hope to exhaust East of the suit. But if I have Axx opposite xxx, West led the queen (denying the king), and East plays low, I might take the trick to &quot;block&quot; the king in East. Does this make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T17:30:42.917" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T23:33:29.000" Title="In bridge, how do you tell when to use holdup versus blocking plays?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8356" CreationDate="2012-09-11T20:51:24.950" Score="8" ViewCount="17115" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just saw this card called &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136151&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Steamflogger Boss&lt;/a&gt; today, but I've never heard of a Rigger, a Contraption, or an ability called 'assemble' in Magic. Am I missing something? Does this card refer to a very rare card type &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?type=%20%5BLocus%5D%20%5BLand%5D%7C%7Csubtype=%20%5BLocus%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;like locus&lt;/a&gt; of which there are only a few examples? It seems like the card would make perfect sense if I could only find something that could assemble a darn contraption...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2017-11-16T22:18:00.717" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T22:18:00.717" Title="What are Riggers and Contraptions in MTG and how do I assmble them? (Steamflogger boss question)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-joke-cards|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-09-11T20:51:24.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steamflogger Boss was printed in the set &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Future_Sight&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Future Sight&lt;/a&gt;, and the card alludes to the fact that riggers and contraptions may be part of the game in a coming set (the preceding 2 sets in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Time_Spiral_block&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Time Spiral block&lt;/a&gt; were about the past and present). However, seeing as there are still no mention of the assemble mechanic as of 2012, it is still primarily a joke card in the same vein as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unhinged_%28Magic%3a_The_Gathering%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unhinged&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unglued&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unglued&lt;/a&gt; sets. While a 3/3 for 4 mana isn't &lt;em&gt;terrible&lt;/em&gt;, it is definitely weak enough that it will only see actual play in limited decks that desperately need to fill up some mid-range creature slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaron Forsythe, the director of Research and Development for Magic: the Gathering, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af170&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;commented that the card was purely a joke and was probably a bad idea.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T22:02:39.820" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T22:02:39.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-09-11T20:54:53.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the ruling at the page you linked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contraption is a new artifact type. There are currently no artifacts with this type. And there's no current game meaning of &amp;quot;assemble.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards had a bit of &amp;quot;fun&amp;quot; with Future Sight, creating weird card such as this one, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghostfire&quot;&gt;Ghostfire&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T20:54:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7558" CreationDate="2012-09-11T21:25:32.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question directly, &lt;em&gt;yes&lt;/em&gt;, you may choose any card you like from the pool, especially since they're face-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T21:25:32.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7483" CreationDate="2012-09-11T22:11:39.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I learned Glory to Rome, I found the hardest part was remembering which roles moved cards &lt;em&gt;from where&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;where else&lt;/em&gt;, for various values of &quot;pool,&quot; &quot;stockpile,&quot; &quot;hand,&quot; and &quot;clients.&quot;  (&quot;Vault&quot; and &quot;build pile&quot;, at least, were easy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also took me a while to realize that I was giving Craftsmen to my various opponents (which they were gleefully seizing as clients), but that's more of an issue of &quot;how to win&quot; rather than &quot;how to play.&quot; If they can understand Race for the Galaxy, and you're willing to point out some of the tactical elements, they'll learn Glory To Rome just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my gaming group, we now all play Craftsmen pretty conservatively, so the game has slowed down a lot (lots of Thinking just to pick up a Jack so you can use it as a Craftsman).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-09-11T22:11:39.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-09-11T23:49:19.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there are other Riggers besides the Steamflogger Boss.&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moriok%20Rigger&quot;&gt;Moriok Rigger&lt;/a&gt; from Fifth Dawn had the Rigger Sub-Type retroactively added to it after the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/feature/424a3&amp;amp;tablesort=4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grand Creature Type Update.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5BChangeling%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Changling&lt;/a&gt; is also a Rigger, as well as the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Ultimus&quot;&gt;Mistform Ultimus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-09-13T03:41:50.893" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T03:41:50.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8310" CreationDate="2012-09-12T00:17:06.317" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having spent a little while looking into this, the only clear thing is that there is no firm evidence for any distant historical first date for Tic Tac Toe. Although many people claim the Romans played this game, in the form of Terni Lapilli, and point to the large number of historical boards that exist, scratched into walls, this &lt;a href=&quot;http://ablemedia.com/ctcweb/showcase/boardgames7.html&quot;&gt;seems unlikely&lt;/a&gt;, not least because Tic Tac Toe isn't a very interesting game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Terni Lapilli is considered to be identical to modern Tic-Tac-Toe.&#xA;  However, although Terni Lapilli boards are found throughout the&#xA;  Empire, scratched on walls, floors, and roofs, no X's and O's&#xA;  accompany the markings. Obviously playing pieces were being used for&#xA;  this game and the would surely be the same ones used for both&#xA;  Latrunculi and Tabula. Bolesden says that three pieces were used in&#xA;  this game but if that is true, this is not Tic-Tac-Toe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Judging from the number of Terni Lapilli boards found around Rome it&#xA;  would seem this game was more popular than Tic-Tac-Toe, and therefore&#xA;  we must conclude that it was not, in fact, Tic-Tac-Toe since this is&#xA;  not really a game and could not sustain such interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Men%27s_Morris&quot;&gt;Three Men's Morris&lt;/a&gt;, on the other hand, which uses an identical board, is much more challenging, and has a board from Egypt dated to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Men%27s_Morris#History&quot;&gt;1400 BCE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One suggestion is that the etymology of &quot;Tic-Tac-Toe&quot; is based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamescrafters.berkeley.edu/games.php?game=tictactoe&quot;&gt;&quot;Tit-Tat-Toe&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (as in tit-for-tat retaliation), apparently from the 16th Century, but this is completely unsubstantiated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tic-tac-toe#History&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's information&lt;/a&gt;, dated definitively to 1864 and widely re-gurgitated across the internet, is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.oed.com&quot;&gt;OED&lt;/a&gt;, which quotes a Boston periodical, &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://digital.library.cornell.edu/l/livn/index.html&quot;&gt;The Living Age&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1864   &lt;em&gt;Littell's Living Age&lt;/em&gt; 22 Oct. 182/1   Mr Babbage..has proceeded&#xA;  some way towards the invention of an automaton intended to play at the&#xA;  very simple game called indifferently ‘noughts and crosses’ or&#xA;  ‘tit-tat-to’.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read the full reference for yourself online: &lt;a href=&quot;http://digital.library.cornell.edu/l/livn/livn.1864.html&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Living Age&lt;/em&gt;, 22 October 1864, p.182&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is known is that there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamesmuseum.uwaterloo.ca/VirtualExhibits/rowgames/index.html&quot;&gt;many historical examples&lt;/a&gt; of so-called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamepandit.com/games/ninemen.html&quot;&gt;games of alignment&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, from all around the world:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...in Europe, Asia, and Africa many people have long been playing similar&#xA;  games which require the alignment of five or nine symbols in a row.&#xA;  Most of these latter games are played on boards scratched in the&#xA;  earth, carved into wooden or stone benches, or cardboard or wooden&#xA;  boards constructed for these variations. There are at least nine&#xA;  different board configurations for these games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These games are grouped together because they all have the same&#xA;  purpose - that is for two players to each place a symbol on the board,&#xA;  one symbol at a time during alternate turns of play, with the goal of&#xA;  aligning a series of agreed upon symbols in a &quot;row&quot;, while at the same&#xA;  time attempting to prevent the other player from doing the same thing.&#xA;  In each version of the game, as the number of symbols are increased,&#xA;  the goal does not change, nor does the primary mode of play. In&#xA;  versions using five or nine symbols, additional procedures are added&#xA;  to the play of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems very likely that the game existed in the distant past, but being a less than engrossing pastime for anyone other than young children, distant historical references are lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key references for further research:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;H.J.A. Murray, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0878172114&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;A History of Board Games Other Than Chess&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claudia Zaslavsky, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0690043163&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tic Tac Toe: And Other Three-In-A Row Games from Ancient Egypt to the Modern Computer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;R.C. Bell, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0486238555&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Board and Table Games from Many Civilizations&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/gamesearch.html&quot;&gt;An extensive bibliography of books covering board game history&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/&quot;&gt;Many links to period board game references and reconstructions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T00:17:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7002" CreationDate="2012-09-12T09:26:55.677" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the seafarers expansion, you cannot move or build a ship to or from a hex containing the pirate. This could be where the house-rule applying to the robber too came from, by blocking land-based building rather than sea-based building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T09:26:55.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8346" CreationDate="2012-09-12T10:40:56.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Never.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason you should help another player is if it increases your chances of victory during that game. Everything else is unfair against the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone is clearly winning or you for any reason feel the game is just a waste of time to continue: Bring it up for discussion. If the others feel the same way you can often just agree to give the leader the victory and end the game right there. If they want to continue maybe you can drop out or you'll just have to play the game out to make your friends happy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King making is quite bad etiquette. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-09-12T10:40:56.957" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-09-13T12:57:51.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Contraptions are (at time of writing) a joke, but let's not forget that a Steamflogger Boss does buff other Steamflogger Bosses (without even mentioning the many, many other Riggers that exist in the game of Magic, most of which are admittedly Changelings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first Steamflogger Boss may just be a Hill Giant, but your second is a 4/3 haste, and by the time the third hits the table, you have three hasty 5/3 bad boys on your team.  Okay, maybe this scenario isn't exactly the pinnacle of brokenness, but it it goes to show that Steamflogger Boss's (first) ability isn't quite useless.  You could do worse for a cost of 3R...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-09-13T12:57:51.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8366" CreationDate="2012-09-14T01:37:29.530" Score="17" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother showed me &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEpic%20Experiment%5d&quot;&gt;Epic Experiment&lt;/a&gt; today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now he says you can use it to put creatures in the graveyard and then fish them out with the free spells you get, because the free spells get put on the stack before the original card resolves, whereas I think that the spells will go on the stack at the same time as the creatures go into the graveyard when Epic Experiment resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T13:31:49.977" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T13:31:49.977" Title="Does Epic Experiment let me pull creatures out of the graveyard that were exiled during its casting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8364" CreationDate="2012-09-14T01:57:20.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what spell you are trying to use to get things out of the graveyard.  You follow the instructions on Epic Experiment in order, so if you reveal a spell like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unburial%20Rites&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt; that targets a creature card in the graveyard, you won't be able to use it on a card revealed by the experiment.  That creature is still in exile!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you use a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270462&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3621&quot;&gt;Necromancy&lt;/a&gt; that don't require the creature to be in the GY until the time they resolve, then those exiled cards will be happily there and ready to reanimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T01:57:20.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8364" CreationDate="2012-09-14T05:51:11.137" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's instructive to go through both of your reasonings, since you're both partially right in a way but came to the wrong conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the free spells get put on the stack before the original card resolves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your friend is actually right here. BUT — don't forget the rules of casting spells. In order to put a spell on the stack (even if free) he must first choose any modes, targets, or additional optional costs for the spell. (See section 601 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;.) Like he said, Epic Experiment hasn't resolved until after his spells are put on the stack, so it hasn't put the cards that haven't been cast in the graveyard yet and they can't be targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even the amazing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pull%20from%20Eternity&quot;&gt;Pull from Eternity&lt;/a&gt; can't help him — yes, a creature in exile can be targeted and the spell put on the stack, but Epic Experiment has to finish resolving. When Pull from Eternity resolves, it will no longer find the creature card in the Exile zone and will fizzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the spells will go on the stack at the same time as the creatures go into the graveyard when Epic Experiment resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spells actually go on the stack as the Epic Experiment is resolving, but the creatures and spells not spells go in the graveyard after the cast spells are put on the stack. Epic Experiment has three linked abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(a) Exile some cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(b) Cast some of (a)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(c) &lt;strong&gt;Then&lt;/strong&gt; put rest of (a) in graveyard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the trick is to use spells with graveyard shenanigans that don't target and do their magic when they resolve, or use cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gravecrawler&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt; or cards with Graveyard keywords like Flashback or the new Scavenge. Remember, the “may cast” means you could choose not to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unburial%20Rights&quot;&gt;Unburial Rights&lt;/a&gt; as part of the resolution of Epic Experiment, and cast it for the Flashback cost after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-09-14T05:51:11.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8412" CreationDate="2012-09-14T09:16:55.383" Score="5" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I played a game similar to Ricochet Robots, but a single player travel version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game has a small board (something like 5x5 tiles) and several robot pieces.&#xA;It includes cards with puzzle configurations (about 100 I remember) that the player should solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics of the game are similar to Ricochet Robots (or a Zelda ice and blocks puzzle), where you move a Robot in one direction until it collides with another element. The objective is to get the robot to a selected position on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the name nor the company that made this game but I want to try it again. Does anyone know it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-15T08:56:37.613" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T13:22:52.250" Title="I'm searching for Ricochet Robots, travel version" Tags="|identify-this-game|puzzles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8369" CreationDate="2012-09-14T17:10:34.453" Score="8" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Havengul%20Lich&quot;&gt;Havengul Lich&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: You may cast target creature card in a graveyard this turn. When you cast that card this turn, Havengul Lich gains all activated abilities of that card until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reassembling%20Skeleton&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton&lt;/a&gt; has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1B: Return Reassembling Skeleton from your graveyard to the battlefield tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, when I target Skeleton with Lich, does the Lich gain &amp;quot;return skeleton to battlefield&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;return lich to battlefield&amp;quot;? Would it be different if it said &amp;quot;return this card to battlefield&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T16:37:24.520" Title="Havengul Lich on Reassembling Skeleton - can the Lich cast itself for 1B this turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8368" CreationDate="2012-09-14T17:17:00.203" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an object names itself, it always refers to itself, regardless of what its name actually is. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cemetery%20Puca&quot;&gt;Cemetery Puca&lt;/a&gt; wouldn't work if that wasn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4b If an ability of an object refers to that object by name, and an object with a different name gains that ability, each instance of the first name in the gained ability that refers to the first object by name should be treated as the second name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the ability would effectively be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1B: Return Havengul Lich from your graveyard to the battlefield tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the name in the text only &amp;quot;changes&amp;quot; if it's the card referring to itself. For example, if a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Centaur%20Courser&quot;&gt;Centaur Courser&lt;/a&gt; (a vanilla creature) somehow entered the battlefield with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Squadron%20Hawk&quot;&gt;Squadron Hawk&lt;/a&gt; abilities, you would still look for Squadron Hawks because it's merely looking for other similarly-named cards. Squadron Hawk is closer to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arachnus%20Spinner&quot;&gt;Arachnus Spinner&lt;/a&gt; than it is to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reassembling%20Skeleton&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Havengul%20Lich&quot;&gt;Havengul Lich&lt;/a&gt; would never be able to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reassembling%20Skeleton&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton&lt;/a&gt;'s ability. The ability can only be used from the graveyard, but there's no way for the Lich to have that ability in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lich cannot activate its builtin ability from the graveyard, so it can't gain the ability from the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means it would have to gain the ability on the battlefield and bring it to the graveyard, but that's not possible because permanents become a new objects when they move from the battlefield to the graveyard. Lich-card-in-graveyard would not have any abilities granted to Lich-permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T16:37:24.520" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T16:37:24.520" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8380" CreationDate="2012-09-15T22:33:15.293" Score="1" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have something like AQJxxx of clubs (and no other values). If it were any other suit than clubs, I'd open with a with a &quot;weak two&quot; bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But two clubs is the STRONG two bid. Meaning that if I wanted a &quot;weak&quot; two bid, I'd have to go to THREE clubs. With such a strong honor holding, is it ok to do so with only six clubs, on the theory that your suit is actually stronger than a seven card suit such as QTxxxxx? (If your partner has nothing, you figure to win five tricks, going down four, but your opponents can make a small slam.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you do this with another suit besides clubs, where you could bid a weak two? And how would vulnerability affect your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-09-15T22:38:56.520" LastActivityDate="2020-06-10T04:37:23.550" Title="Are there times to pre-empt with a &quot;strong&quot; six trumps in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8381" CreationDate="2012-09-16T14:37:23.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Descent second edition it says on most search cards that if you use them that they should get flipped over. In campaign mode does this mean that you still can sell them in the campaign phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T15:12:34.100" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:57:36.770" Title="In Descent SE can you sell search cards after use?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8346" CreationDate="2012-09-16T17:39:20.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, questions of etiquette should be decided within your group before you begin playing. If the players are all serious competitive gamers, they will try to win no matter how slim the chances are. Another big issue is the question of position: Is it better to guarantee getting second place, or try for a slim chance to win that if it fails, means you'll end up in last place. There are no right or wrong answers, which -- if the players are not aligned in their point of view -- could lead to a frustrating gaming experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3283" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T17:39:20.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8370" CreationDate="2012-09-16T22:16:06.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under most circumstances, I wouldn't. If your partner has 3 or 4 clubs and mediocre strength, and decides to support, you might find yourself in a disastrous 4CX or 5CX while your opponents didn't have anything better than a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your distribution as well. With 6-4-3-0 I might feel bold enough to try it. With 6-3-2-2, probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T22:16:06.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7745" CreationDate="2012-09-16T22:31:25.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the base game, always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a large ship full of useful tiles helps you deal with every situation better: guns for enemies, crew for abandoned ships and stations, engines for open space, cargo space to loot planets. And if something bad does happen, a large ship is more likely to be able to handle the mishap and keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cards look dangerous, of course, you might want to take your time building and take appropriate precautions. If there are lots of small meteors, be careful about exposed connectors. If there are large meteors or enemies, deploy as many guns as you can. If it looks like you might take cannon fire--or meteors you can't handle--look for a shield and batteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the worst happens, all that happens is you lose a few components, turning your large ship into the small ship you were planning anyway! If you're playing a ship with insurance, this is a paltry loss. If you're playing one without, it's a bigger deal, but if an opponent has a successful and safe run while you take a beating, you're going to have a difficult time catching up anyway, so you might as well plan for success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the expansions, there may be times when having a certain type of tile is a liability, but even then, more ship is usually better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T03:28:30.853" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T03:28:30.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6117" CreationDate="2012-09-16T22:58:45.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more information you have on where your cards are the more powerful position you are in and the more options you will get. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of game mechanics that like to have cards in the graveyard the most simple is a reanimation deck which will love the chance to draw the key spells it runs on, while also getting some of its high cost targets into the graveyard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastActivityDate="2012-09-16T22:58:45.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4720" CreationDate="2012-09-17T02:38:39.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I'm not aware of any hard data of the sort that RftG or Dominion players collect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, &lt;strong&gt;Bilkis&lt;/strong&gt; (once per turn, pay 1 to the bank for 1 of any resource) is my pick for best all-around leader. She lets you get away with playing fewer resource cards and avoids enriching your neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other choices are more situational:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Imhotep&lt;/strong&gt; (resource discount for Wonder stages) is great for Giza B or Wonders that have an inconvenient cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hammurabi&lt;/strong&gt; (resource discount for blue cards) is good unless you're committed to a maximum-science strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vanilla VP leaders are pretty good for their cost, and since in general you will be happy to pay 1 coin for 1 VP, the largest ones, &lt;strong&gt;Cleopatra&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Nefertiti&lt;/strong&gt;, are strongest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can get two leaders that support either science or military, that can be strong. It does sort of commit you to that path, so if you draft 2 military leaders and your neighbor decides to pursue a military strategy, you might find yourself frustrated. Either one, although science moreso, is high-risk/high-reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the military leaders, &lt;strong&gt;Caesar&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Hannibal&lt;/strong&gt; grant shields, which give you a leg up and signal to your neighbors that you're not worth fighting. &lt;strong&gt;Alexander&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Nero&lt;/strong&gt; give you bonuses for winning. &lt;strong&gt;Pericles&lt;/strong&gt; is expensive, but can be worth 8 or 10 points if you're going military. &lt;strong&gt;Leonidas&lt;/strong&gt; provides a discount for military, although if you often get a fair number of brown buildings anyway you might not need the discount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the science leaders, &lt;strong&gt;Archimedes&lt;/strong&gt; provides the discount, which (in contrast to military) can be important especially in Age 1 since the science costs require advanced resources. &lt;strong&gt;Hypatia&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Aristotle&lt;/strong&gt; make your green cards and sets worth more. &lt;strong&gt;Euclid&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Ptolemy&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Pythagoras&lt;/strong&gt; provide science symbols; they're expensive but can be worth lots of points if they fill up a set or give you the 5th card of a kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T02:38:39.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8009" CreationDate="2012-09-17T02:45:18.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick answer is: &lt;strong&gt;only if nobody else is doing it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scholars + research can be worth a lot of points. You'll start with a scholar and take another one early, then choose research as much as you can afford to. The other big advantage is that if it's not being fought over, you'll save money by choosing the research tile, and you can let your person points slide. If you have to pay to choose the research tile, this advantage goes away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage, of course, is that it doesn't help you gain any resources, so you need to look at the events. If plague is going to kill your scholars, or you're going to run out of building space, you need to handle those crises rather than wasting time on doomed scholars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T02:45:18.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8310" CreationDate="2012-09-17T09:56:12.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noughts and Crosses/Tic Tac Toe belong to a family of games, (and in my opinion Noughts and Crosses is the runt of the litter.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Achi, (from Ghana) and Tapatan, (from the Philippines) show that such games are well distributed across the world. If we search for the oldest abstract board games we usually run into one of the Mancala family of games, (Bao, Kalah...) which are clearly very old. This family includes Oware, (again from Ghana) which resembles Achi, and I would not be surprised if Achi is a simplification of Oware, (a child's version or someone partly remembering the rules). Staying in Africa but returning to the original question we find Three Men's Morris in North Africa 1400 BCE AND carved into English cathedrals. This leads us to the game of Nine Holes which is another alteration of the rules of TMM.&#xA;(There are records of people being punished for carving Nine Holes boards into Cathedral - and I believe it was suppressed or banned in some parts of England.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over and over we see simplification and efficiency until we find Noughts and Crosses emerging as a rather childish descendant. Despite claims that, &quot;The Romans played tic-tac-toe&quot; I would suggest that this is false: They were limited to three playing pieces each which is clearly not the case with &quot;modern Naughts and Crosses&quot;, (thank you, alan2here, for a well worded question), which seems to have emerged in the middle of the 19th Century, but as it was not patented and no one seems to have taken credit it probably evolved naturally from Nine holes in many locations at similar times, (hence the other name for it in North America.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3288" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T09:56:12.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8370" CreationDate="2012-09-17T12:33:53.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reference - &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/SP3%20%28bk%29%20single%20pages.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ACBL SAYC SYSTEM BOOKLET&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OPENING PREEMPTS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opposite an unpassed partner, an opening 3 or 4-level call in a suit tends toward sound at equal or unfavorable vulnerability. Vulnerable against not, you should be within two tricks of your bid (i.e. with likely distribution of the remaining cards in your suit). When the vulnerability is equal, you should be within three tricks of your bid. At favorable vulnerability, the preempt tends to be lighter, so you should be within four tricks of your bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To decide whether or not your bid is sound, start by considering &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preempt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the scoring&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cE6VC.png&quot; alt=&quot;score&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, consider how many tricks you'd be likely to make with your longest suit as trumps. With your AQJxxx of clubs you'll probably take 5 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're non-vulnerable and your opponents are vulnerable then 3 clubs is reasonable - if your partner has anything you should be able to get a 6th trick, if your partner has nothing then your opponents probably had a small slam. At any other vulnerability you should pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T18:36:01.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8371" CreationDate="2012-09-17T12:59:29.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; That's why they're flipped face-down when used rather than being discarded--to keep track of how much gold you've earned. Conceptually, the card represents that your search uncovered a cache with both gold and a useful item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From p. 10 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent-second-ed/support/DJ01_Rulebook_ENG.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gold:&lt;/strong&gt; When playing the campaign, this number shows how much gold the players have earned, &lt;strong&gt;in addition to&lt;/strong&gt; the abilities listed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-09-17T16:57:36.770" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:57:36.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8370" CreationDate="2012-09-17T16:12:56.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point about a pre-empt is precisely the lomg suit.  If you bid on a 6-card suit more than once in a blue moon you are misleading your partner (who can be expected to have an opening bid in your example, and may bid up, based on your 7-suit); if you do it often, you are misleading your opponents, and should declare your 'system' in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:12:56.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7748" CreationDate="2012-09-17T16:55:06.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shields help mitigate the damage caused by mistakes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shipbuilding phase is played under time pressure. While it may be possible to build a ship with no exposed connectors and enough firepower to overcome any enemy, it is not always possible to build such a ship in the time allotted, especially for relatively inexperienced players. Even an experienced player might want to build hastily to grab an advantageous starting placement. Hasty building often means one or several exposed connectors, as the ideal parts cannot be found in time. If a shield is available and fits well with the rest of the ship construction, it can mitigate the risks nicely, costing perhaps spare batteries rather than possibly-important components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-17T16:55:06.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8384" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-18T03:32:30.447" Score="10" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the phrase &lt;em&gt;heart finesse&lt;/em&gt; mean? It appears to be a card term:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.confsudbridge.org/hits/brbm0014i.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;The Logic of Women&amp;quot; by Bernard Marcoux, Montreal&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think about it a little: if the heart finesse was necessary to the&#xA;success of this contract, then the King has to be with West.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dictionary.com/browse/finesse?s=t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dictionary.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He could try the heart finesse or, if the spirit so moved him, play&#xA;for a major-suit squeeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="prime" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T01:17:21.973" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T01:17:21.973" Title="Can't understand the meaning of 'heart finesse'" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8384" CreationDate="2012-09-18T05:36:44.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heart Finesse&lt;/strong&gt; is really two words that should be dealt with separately.  &lt;em&gt;Heart&lt;/em&gt; is just one of the four suits in a standard deck of cards.  One could substitute &lt;em&gt;Clubs&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Diamonds&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Spades&lt;/em&gt; and use it in the same phrase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finesse&lt;/strong&gt; is the more interesting term.  It is a form of a dilemma posed to one's opponents in a game of bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a team makes a contract in bridge they are obligating themselves to capture a certain number of tricks.  For this example we'll choose a contact of &quot;Four Spades&quot;.  This obligates the team to take 10 tricks.  The total number of tricks available is 13 and a bid requires (6+the bid) to be successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absent trumps, high cards win each trick in bridge, so aces, kings and queens take most tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To continue this example, the player who made trump is going to realize that he can only make 9 tricks with some certainly and needs to figure out how to gain an extra trick.  A common way to do this is to use a &lt;strong&gt;finesse&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finesse utilizes a gap in the owner's suit of cards and tries to force an opponent into not getting a trick for a high card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To continue our example assume that the declarer has AQ in hearts and 72 on dummy.  After capturing a trick on dummy he leads the 7.  The opponent now has a dilemma, she can play the King only to see it fall to the Ace, or she can play a lower card and Declarer will cover it with his Queen.  In this way, the Declarer can possibly get two heart tricks when only one was assured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an example of a direct finesse.  There are many other kinds of finesses which you can read about at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finesse&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.  They all have the same basic theme though, trying to get an extra trick (or more) by exploiting a gap in a sequence of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without any special knowledge a finesse has a basic 50% chance of success.  You can only finesse one opponent and the card you are trying to finesse could always be with the other opponent.  Usually, due to the bidding nature of Bridge you have a pretty good guess at which opponent to finesse, but you never quite get to 100% certainty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your knowledge of cards and Bridge in particular I don't doubt that I used terms that are unfamiliar.  Please ask clarifying questions or leave comments and I will explain further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T05:36:44.907" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8384" CreationDate="2012-09-18T13:21:01.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Heart finesse&quot; means finesse in the HEART suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;if the heart finesse was necessary to the success of this contract, then the King has to be with West.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you (South) have two little hearts in hand, and AQ of hearts in dummy North. If you lead a low heart, and the king is in West (left), you will play the ace if West plays the king, or the Queen if he doesn't. In such cases, the king is said to be ONSIDE (relative to A-Q in dummy), and you'll win two tricks and make the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the king were in East, you'd have to make your choice A or queen from the dummy, then East could choose to play the king or not (assuming that he has one small card). In that case, the king is said to be OFFSIDE and you'll lose one trick to the king and lose the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T13:21:01.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8391" CreationDate="2012-09-18T20:37:43.407" Score="1" ViewCount="725" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Tau Codex features a strategy rating. I've not seen this before. What is this used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T17:00:13.013" Title="What is a strategy rating?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8036" CreationDate="2012-09-18T21:38:04.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way rummy figures in doesn't seem very clear from your description. It sounds similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/patience/pounce.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pounce&lt;/a&gt;; in that game you have a personal tableau, common piles of cards that you're building on, and a bunch of cards you hold--although it's a stack, not a hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remember the objective of your game, that would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T21:38:04.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8393" CreationDate="2012-09-18T21:45:37.920" Score="3" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tau battle suits are often dubbed XV88 or XV81, is there a pattern to the number? What does it mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T23:52:00.907" Title="What do the Tau battlesuit numbers mean?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8387" CreationDate="2012-09-18T21:46:19.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to several forums I checked, strategy rating is an obsolete mechanism used in certain published scenarios that would typically give some kind of advantage (initiative, timing of reinforcements, etc.) to the side with the higher strategy rating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/282685.page&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/282685.page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.tauonline.org/tau/5898-strategy-rating.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.tauonline.org/tau/5898-strategy-rating.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T21:46:19.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8387" CreationDate="2012-09-18T23:37:12.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was part of the basic scenario and campaign systems in the core rulebook back in 3rd and 4th editions.  It was dropped in 5th edition on.  Each race used to have a strategy rating that would give you the ability to chose which scenario to play.  Even when it was part of the rules, I seldom saw it get used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't loose much by not being able to use it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T23:37:12.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8389" CreationDate="2012-09-18T23:48:37.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a tip of the hat to real life military vehicle numbering which uses letters followed by a model number(F18, M1, ext.).  The letter usually represents a type of item: T for tank, F for Fighter, X for experimental, and so on. The number is the sequence of the model.  F-18 is the the 18th fighter model designation used by the US military.*   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may also be a possible reference to a few popular mecha animes.  XV-88 is pretty close to RX-78 the designation of the mecha in the original Gundam series.  This could be a coincidence, but the Tau do borrow some of their visual ascetic from Japanese manga and anime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's a literal meaning for XV other than it sounds cool and follows the pattern.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*This is after the US military reset their designations.  They where getting up into the f-100s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-09-18T23:48:37.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8389" CreationDate="2012-09-19T00:19:04.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The common consensus is that the Battlesuit number is XV (indicating Battlesuit), followed by two digits, constructed based on &lt;em&gt;size/mass&lt;/em&gt; (1-9, light to heavy) and &lt;em&gt;function&lt;/em&gt; (1=long-range?, 2=experimental, 4=high-precision(?), 5=stealth, 6=space-faring(?), 8=heavy support), although the functional categories are less clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Battlesuit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lexicanum&lt;/a&gt; references &lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Codex%3a_Tau_Empire_%284th_Edition%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Codex:Tau Empire, 4th Edition, p.35&lt;/a&gt;, and says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard nomenclature has these battlesuits categorized by two numbers&#xA;  - the first number denoting which mass class it belongs to, the second its role. For example, in the XV22 Stealth Battlesuit, the first '2'&#xA;  denotes it as a lighter-weight suit, while the second '2' means it is&#xA;  still undergoing field-testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Tau_Battlesuit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Warhammer 40K Wiki&lt;/a&gt; has more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Tau Battlesuits are essentially the same pieces of Tau technology&#xA;  but can be customized and then given an alphabetical classification&#xA;  code of XV, which is followed by two digits. The first digit indicates&#xA;  the size of the suit: &quot;1&quot; being a complete exoskeletal version of&#xA;  standard Tau body armour, while &quot;8&quot; represents the largest available&#xA;  Battlesuits, the Crisis Battlesuits. The second digit indicates the&#xA;  role or status of the particular suit design. For example: &quot;2&quot;&#xA;  indicates an experimental design, &quot;5&quot; represents a Battlesuit with&#xA;  stealth capability, and &quot;8&quot; denotes a Battlesuit outfitted to provide&#xA;  heavy fire support. Other variations of a Battlesuit may be given&#xA;  different numbers to indicate their functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Hazard_Close_Support_Armour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;XV9&lt;/a&gt; close combat suit, which has a slightly different naming scheme, and comes in two weapon flavours, the XV9-01 and XV9-04.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the 5th edition codex mentions the XV16 and XV26. There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?151313-Strange-Tau-Battle-Suit-numbers-in-the-5ed-book&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some speculation&lt;/a&gt; that the &quot;6&quot; may refer to a new functional designation, possibly space-faring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other letters represent different troop types. A detailed (exhaustive?) attempt to summarise them all can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancedtautactica.com/viewtopic.php?t=9399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;found here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T00:19:04.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8102" CreationDate="2012-09-19T06:07:13.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say this (for the long version.  I don't play the short version and don't know anyone who does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Players   Minutes(Rules)    My estimates&#xA;1           60               Depends on YOU (30-300)&#xA;2          120                 90&#xA;3          180                135&#xA;4          200                180&#xA;5          210                225&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played about 20 games with at least a sampling of all player sizes.  I don't think Solo is worth considering time-wise.  You'll spend however much time you want, nobody will be uncomfortably shifting in their chairs or &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/129/40&quot;&gt;humming the Jeopardy theme song&lt;/a&gt; to hurry you up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience I can tell you that a 2 person game runs 90 minutes if you are both fairly familiar with the game and have a good setup procedure.  If, when you last played you dumped all the components in the box without organizing them, add an extra 30 minutes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player after that is going to add a fairly static amount.  Perhaps 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assume mythical standard players of course!  :)  If anything Le Havre is going to bring out the worst in the players that like to &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; they are making the right move by calculating out as many possibilities as they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each additional player is going to add a good amount of time to the game.  Le Havre is also difficult to plan ahead.  Your options can really shift depending on what the other players do.  Unlike say, &lt;strong&gt;Agricola&lt;/strong&gt;, where you may know on certain turns what you have to do (like acquire food) or &lt;strong&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/strong&gt; (time to SHIP!), Le Havre doesn't really have forcing actions.  There are always options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player right in front of you can easily open up options by buying a building unexpectedly, or moving off of a crucial building.  They can also screw you up by sitting on a needed building for a third dang turn!  I find that these sorts of things happen quite often which doesn't reward folks for thinking ahead (at least in terms of reducing the time it takes to play the game).  It's likely that folks with more experience than me will see more gains here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T14:32:10.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8396" CreationDate="2012-09-19T14:17:05.930" Score="-1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the wrong forum, but how do you call these spirally things that you put on the top of a staircase and watch it fall down step by step?&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3298" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T16:05:21.937" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T16:05:21.937" Title="Spiral Step game thingy" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2012-09-19T16:13:57.670" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8395" CreationDate="2012-09-19T15:02:09.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe they are commonly called a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slinky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slinky&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T15:02:09.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8387" CreationDate="2012-09-19T17:00:13.013" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It used to affect which side got to move first. You both rolled a D6 and added your leader's strategy rating. The highest total got the first move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T17:00:13.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2012-09-19T17:36:01.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While option cards can be handy, most of them aren't going to buy you a full turn, so I'd recommend the simple strategy of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they're behind you, just keep going and build up that lead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they're in front of you, and it's not terribly out of your way, just line up with them and drill 'em full of laser holes as you go by - if they're grinding the wall, you might even manage to push them away and make them spend a turn or two course-correcting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T17:36:01.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8400" CreationDate="2012-09-19T18:23:14.100" Score="23" ViewCount="28700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGoldnight%20Commander%5d&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt; on the board. He is a 2/2 that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control, creatures you control get +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThatcher%20Revolt%5d&quot;&gt;Thatcher Revolt&lt;/a&gt;. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put three 1/1 red Human creature tokens with haste onto the battlefield. Sacrifice those tokens at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sacrifice portion is not important to this question. What is important is how these two cards interact with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing this card in my first main phase, assuming no counters or other shenanigans by my opponent, I will have my Commander and 3 tokens on the battlefield. What will happen in terms of the power/toughness of my tokens and Commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option A&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens will be 1/1 each. They don't see each other come in at all. The Commander is 3/3, as one &amp;quot;enter the battlefield&amp;quot; trigger happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option B&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens will be 1/1. They don't see each other come in at all, because they weren't on the battlefield to see any of the triggers. The Commander is 5/5, as he saw three &amp;quot;enter the battlefield&amp;quot; triggers occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option C&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens will all be different, with one being 3/3 as he saw the other two come in, one being 2/2 as he saw only the last one come in, and 1/1 as the last one saw none come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option D&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens will all be 4/4, as three creatures entered the battlefield this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am obviously hoping for this option. It may be supported by a ruling on Goldnight Commander that says, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature that entered the battlefield will also get +1/+1 until end of turn if it's still on the battlefield when the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key being the ability resolving. So my thought is thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thatcher Revolt goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thatcher Revolt resolves, and three separate &amp;quot;enter the battlefield&amp;quot; triggers go on the stack as the three humans enter the battlefield as 1/1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last (it is a stack) &amp;quot;etb&amp;quot; trigger resolves. This puts an ability from Goldnight Commander on the stack. This resolves and the humans are now all 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next &amp;quot;etb&amp;quot; trigger resolves. This puts a new ability from Commander on the stack, and resolves with the humans being 3/3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first &amp;quot;etb&amp;quot; trigger finally resolves, puts a Command ability on the stack, which resolves putting the humans at their final state of 4/4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option E&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens will all be 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thatcher Revolt goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thatcher Revolt resolves, and one single &amp;quot;enter the battlefield&amp;quot; trigger goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;etb&amp;quot; trigger resolves. This puts an ability from Goldnight Commander on the stack. This resolves and the humans are now all 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would really like to have a complete understanding both of the result and how this result is calculated by the game engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-03-06T19:27:48.187" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T19:27:48.187" Title="Do creatures that enter the battlefield at the same time see each other enter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-enters-the-battlefield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8399" CreationDate="2012-09-19T18:30:17.010" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: Option D is spot on. All three of your 1/1 are now 4/4 until end of turn (and your Commander is 5/5 until end of turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question has nothing to do with whether the tokens see each other enter the battlefield or not.* It's about how many creatures are on the battlefield when each of the triggered abilities resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game unrolls as follows, starting with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thatcher%20Revolt&quot;&gt;Thatcher Revolt&lt;/a&gt;'s resolution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thatcher Revolt places three creatures on the battlefield simultaneously. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goldnight%20Commander&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt;'s ability triggers three times. [CR 603.2][CR 603.2c]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a player is about to receive priority, you place Goldnight Commander's ability on the stack three times. [CR 603.3]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third instance of Goldnight Commander's ability resolves: Creatures you control get +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second instance of Goldnight Commander's ability resolves: Creatures you control get +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first instance of Goldnight Commander's ability resolves: Creatures you control get +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three continuous effects were created by a triggered ability. They will only affect the creatures that existed when the abilities resolved [CR 611.2c], but all three of the 1/1s were on the battlefield when they resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all three of your 1/1 are now 4/4 until end of turn (and your Commander is 5/5 until end of turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* — To answer your title question, yes. If you had two creatures with a triggered ability such as &amp;quot;When another creature enters the battlefield, ...&amp;quot;, they would see each other entering the battlefield. This is codified by CR 603.6d: &amp;quot;Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. [...]&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goldnight%20Commander&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt; entered the battlefield simultaneously, both of their abilities would trigger [CR 603.6d], and both would end up getting +2/+2 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-09-19T19:13:08.300" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T19:13:08.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8354" CreationDate="2012-09-19T19:13:36.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Future Sight was a set full of &quot;what ifs&quot; - glimpses into possible futures for the game, and this was one of them. Some of them were simply gags, and this was one of them. (Although it's worth mentioning that new sets are starting to use terminology in the manner of assemble - detain, for instance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2012-09-19T19:13:36.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8407" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:30:33.600" Score="17" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering we all have limited memories (and scratch paper is frowned upon in over-the-board play), what sorts of things are highest priority for keeping track of and committing to memory over the course of a typical game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering we all have differing memory capacities, list the 'memorable items' in order of priority, with an explanation of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3064" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T01:08:22.960" Title="Priorities for Memory in Dominion" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8406" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:37:38.097" Score="3" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I've fallen behind in Alien Frontiers, how can I catch up?  If the leading player(s) have more ships and colonies on the board, they're going to pull ahead even faster, so that an early lead turns into further victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen the lead player dragged down by someone else, but that doesn't help the hindmost player win - it just means that the second-place player wins.  What can the hindmost player do to catch up to the rest of the players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T00:55:35.130" Title="How can I catch up in Alien Frontiers?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8403" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:47:58.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be interested in &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=4668&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on the dominionstrategy.com forums, but here's my ranking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Composition of your own deck&lt;/strong&gt;, particularly the number of terminal Actions. This is usually pretty easy to remember, but important so you can assemble a cohesive deck rather than a poorly-fitting set of shiny cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of Provinces (and/or Colonies) in each player's deck.&lt;/strong&gt; This lets you know where you stand and if you need to need to try to end the game quickly or shift into an alternate strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of other VPs in each player's deck.&lt;/strong&gt; If you can count Duchies and Estates, this helps time the end of the game. It is critical when, say, Duke is on the board. It helps more, and is easier, in 2-player. If you are considering ending the game when the score is close, this helps a lot. Counting alt-VP cards like Gardens and Silk Road can be useful, but it's more difficult to judge their exact value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Location of the important cards in your own deck.&lt;/strong&gt; For instance, if the only three cards left in your deck are two Actions and an Estate, you probably don't want to play a Moat with your last action. Later in the game, knowing how strong your next hand is likely to be can suggest how aggressively you should buy green cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of key cards in each player's deck.&lt;/strong&gt; Depending on the board, this includes powerful cards that might pile out (Caravan, Fool's Gold, Minion), cards that might give a player big turns (Goons, Highway, Madman, Platinum), and attacks you want to defend against.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of buys an opponent with a powerful engine can generate.&lt;/strong&gt; This is difficult to memorize (I don't) but can help you avoid letting your opponent drain 3 piles for a quick victory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T00:47:58.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8404" CreationDate="2012-09-20T00:55:35.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get lots of dice.&lt;/strong&gt; Not only are dice resources, but the more dice you have, the more powerful each one becomes. First, you can make better combinations; second, you can gain resources and spend them in the same round without the threat of having them stolen. Usually the sixth die paints a target on you for aggression, but if you're in last place you might be able to avoid that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get your colonies down.&lt;/strong&gt; Until they're all down, you can play with the balance of power all you want, but you can't win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Look for ways to disrupt your opponents' majorities and solidify your own.&lt;/strong&gt; This means having alien tech cards with useful secondary abilities that will let you boost your score once you're within striking distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force the second-place player to do the work of stopping the leader.&lt;/strong&gt; Don't waste your own resources. If the second-place player isn't trying to pull down the leader, you're not going to win anyway, so you might as well play for the case you can win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T00:55:35.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8403" CreationDate="2012-09-20T01:08:22.960" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory Point differential&lt;/strong&gt; - This should be your highest priority, and is quite easy to remember if only playing two player. If playing 4-player, it is still only 3 numbers to memorize. It is important to know, because it allows you to know if you will win when ending the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything below is probably more important in some kingdom distributions, and less important in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gold/Silver distribution&lt;/strong&gt; - What you would really like to know here, is your average treasure value per hand, but that number gets exceedingly difficult to calculate as you consider card draw, victory cards, action cards with variable cash values, etc. It would also be good to know what your opponents AVG hand value is too, but I have a difficult enough time keeping track of my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terminal Actions/2+ Action cards&lt;/strong&gt; - The number of terminal action cards needs to stay below a certain threshold to prevent you from getting multiple terminal actions in a hand, and being unable to use them both. This threshold is dependant on the number of +2 Action cards and deck size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buys/Gains per turn&lt;/strong&gt; - Important to know if you are losing (or winning), if you can out buy your opponents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Defensive/Reaction cards&lt;/strong&gt; - This is of course highly dependant upon the number of attack cards your opponents have, and how disruptive those attack cards are to your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Individual Combo odds&lt;/strong&gt; - Highly dependant upon the kingdom cards, but many times you want to be able to estimate the number of Barons/Estates, Treasure Maps, Scout/Great Halls, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not necessary to count&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deck size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kingdom card piles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash contents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T01:08:22.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8410" CreationDate="2012-09-20T05:30:22.480" Score="20" ViewCount="22112" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I were playing Munchkin last weekend and we had an interesting experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I happened to be lucky enough to have the &quot;Kneepads of Alure&quot; (and not much else).  I was level 1.  My friend who was winning was level 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my turn, I opened a door and came across a high level monster that would not pursue anyone of level 4 or below.  I wanted to make sure that my friend would be included in the fun so I used the Kneepads to bring my level 6 friend into the fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were not going to win the fight and my friend (who himself was in the fight) promised to help the monster should we be able to win.  He wanted to force me to have to run away (and him as well), but I argued that because the monster wouldn't pursue characters of level 4 or below I didn't have to roll to escape the &quot;Bad Stuff&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct rule in this situation?  Do we both have to roll to escape or just my friend who was level 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1866" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T12:15:52.123" Title="What exactly does &quot;will not pursue&quot; mean in Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8408" CreationDate="2012-09-20T09:04:32.573" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always did the obvious: the monster will &lt;strong&gt;fight everybody&lt;/strong&gt;, no matter what level but if you are &lt;strong&gt;running&lt;/strong&gt;, it will &lt;strong&gt;only follow characters of level 5 or higher&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you can &lt;strong&gt;safely run away&lt;/strong&gt; as long as your char is below level 5 as it will not follow you! Only chance that bad stuff happens to you would be having a way of preventing your running completely.&#xA;Your friend of course is in a worse situation as he is &lt;strong&gt;above level 4&lt;/strong&gt; and therefore the monster &lt;strong&gt;will follow him&lt;/strong&gt;. He has to roll the dice and hopefully not manage to have a 5 or higher ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;help&quot; system in Munchkin is very easy and a monster can follow none, one or split up and follow both fighters, depending on itself and their level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3300" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T09:04:32.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8408" CreationDate="2012-09-20T10:18:50.700" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The monster that will not follow level 4 or below will not pursue you, only your helper will suffer bad stuff if they fail to escape. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://munchkin.game/gameplay/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; at Steve Jackson Games covers this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. I'm at Level 2 and I encounter a Level 9 monster. Another player (Level 5) joins the combat. A third player wanders in a new monster that will not pursue Level 3 or below. We are now losing and have to run away. Does the wandered-in monster go after both of us?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. In combat, monsters fight side by side. But when it comes to pursue the fleeing munchkins, they act individually and munchkins must attempt to escape from each as normal. So the wandered-in monster will not pursue you, but will pursue your helper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T12:15:52.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8318" CreationDate="2012-09-20T11:26:49.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot normally discard cards directly from your hand (unless a card says otherwise). This does not prevent you from playing the race card, whether it matches your current race or not from your hand, to prevent your opponent from getting it. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; say that charity is the last step (&lt;strong&gt;(4)Charity&lt;/strong&gt;) of your turn (page 2), and under the When To Play section for &lt;strong&gt;Classes and Races&lt;/strong&gt; (page 6) it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Classes and Races&lt;/strong&gt; - These cards may be played as soon as they are acquired, or at any time during your own turn. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/#races&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ also supports&lt;/a&gt; this, giving an example of how you can change races on your turn by discarding races from the table and adding (or not) a race from your hand. It also gives an example of replacing a Class card to avoid charity, and as stated previously the timing on playing Race/Class cards is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. When using Super Munchkin or Half-Breed (or Double Agent or Bilingual . . .), can you discard one of your Races or Classes and replace it with another, or just not replace it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. You can turn from a half-breed dwarf-elf to a half-breed dwarf-human, or, if you have the Halfling card, dwarf-halfling. This doesn't make you lose Half-Breed. Super Munchkin works the same way for Classes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Can I replace my current Class with the same Class to avoid charity?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. You can discard a Class at any time. You can play a Class at any time on your turn. There's no requirement that the new Class be different from the old one. So, yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T11:26:49.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8367" CreationDate="2012-09-20T13:17:22.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the game I think I was thinking of: &lt;strong&gt;LUNAR LOCKOUT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.funagain.com/control/product?product_id=010971&amp;amp;reviews_show_all=Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.funagain.com/control/product?product_id=010971&amp;amp;reviews_show_all=Y&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0mHa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how one of the reviews describes it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a great little solitaire game. It's quite similar to Ricochet&#xA;  Robot in theme, but there are some important differences. There are no&#xA;  walls--not even around the edges. You must get your man to the center&#xA;  solely by bouncing him off robots. The goal-spot is always the red&#xA;  square in the center. Instead of random board and piece placement, you&#xA;  must solve puzzles as provided on cards. If you think these&#xA;  differences would make it more simple than Ricochet Robot, then you're&#xA;  in for a big surprise. The puzzles, especially at the top levels, are&#xA;  tear-your-hair-out difficult. Solutions are thankfully provided on the&#xA;  backs of the cards, but that's cheating. The components are very high&#xA;  quality. The robots all have their own 'look' beyond being different&#xA;  colors. The base of the board slides out nicely, has storage space for&#xA;  the robots and cards, and snaps together snugly. My only complaint is&#xA;  that I'd like to see an expansion set soon with new puzzles to solve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T13:22:52.250" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T13:22:52.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8414" CreationDate="2012-09-20T18:57:10.880" Score="14" ViewCount="1985" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror is it possible to exchange items during the movement phase? What are the rules? (people on same place?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="3302" LastEditDate="2013-09-14T11:33:13.050" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T04:30:15.420" Title="Exchanging items during movement phase" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8413" CreationDate="2012-09-20T19:12:15.460" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, if you pass through the same location as someone else, you can give up or receive items from them. As long as it's not combat, there are no timing requirements. This is described on page 23 of the rulebook. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Trade_items&quot;&gt;rules for trading items&lt;/a&gt; are quite generous:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Investigators have the ability to trade Common Items, Unique Items,&#xA;  Spells, and Money, as long as they are in the same street area,&#xA;  location, or Other World location. They can do this in any phase, and&#xA;  do not need to end their turn in the same area in order to do so.&#xA;  However they can not trade items during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Allies, clues, and trophies may not be traded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note especially that for gameplay reasons you can trade Spells, but not Allies or clues. From a thematic perspective this has always seemed a little counter-intuitive to me (You teach someone else the spell, and then... forget it? &quot;But of &lt;em&gt;course&lt;/em&gt; my friend can't go off with &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;!&quot; &quot;Yep, I have a clue, but I simply &lt;em&gt;can't tell you&lt;/em&gt; about it.&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T19:36:22.940" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T19:36:22.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8416" CreationDate="2012-09-20T20:47:18.293" Score="9" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDance%20of%20Many%5d&quot;&gt;Dance of Many&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bParallel%20Lives%5d&quot;&gt;Parallel Lives&lt;/a&gt; interact.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dance of Many's Oracle text says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Dance of Many enters the battlefield, put a token that's a copy of target nontoken creature onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Dance of Many leaves the battlefield, exile the token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the token leaves the battlefield, sacrifice Dance of Many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, sacrifice Dance of Many unless you pay {U}{U}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parallel Lives says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an effect would put one or more tokens onto the battlefield under your control, it puts twice that many of those tokens onto the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the ruling on Parallel Lives states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the effect creating the tokens instructs you to do something with those tokens at a later time, like exiling them at the end of combat, you'll do that for all the tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this applies only to delayed triggers like for example the one on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMimic%20Vat%5d&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt;, as far as I know.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My question is: will the second triggered ability on Dance of Many remember that it put two tokens into play? And if it does (implying &amp;quot;the token&amp;quot; becoming &amp;quot;those tokens&amp;quot;) , will the third triggered ability trigger on either token leaving the battlefield or on all tokens leaving the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3303" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T23:08:07.223" Title="Parallel Lives and Dance of Many" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8415" CreationDate="2012-09-20T21:05:43.503" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just like the delayed triggered ability and the activated ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt;, the first two abilities of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dance%20of%20Many&quot;&gt;Dance of Many&lt;/a&gt; are linked [CR 607.2c], and so are the first and third abilities. The ruling from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Parallel%20Lives&quot;&gt;Parallel Lives&lt;/a&gt; applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;607.2c If an object has an activated or triggered ability printed on it that puts one or more objects onto the battlefield and an ability printed on it that refers to objects &amp;quot;put onto the battlefield with [this object],&amp;quot; those abilities are linked. The second can refer only to objects put onto the battlefield as a result of the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The token&amp;quot; in the second and third ability is short for &amp;quot;the token put on the battlefield by Dance of Many&amp;quot;, and refers to that which the first ability created [CR 607.1]. Since&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put a token that's a copy of target nontoken creature onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;was replaced with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put two tokens that's a copy of target nontoken creature onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that which was created was two tokens, so both tokens get exiled if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dance%20of%20the%20Many&quot;&gt;Dance of the Many&lt;/a&gt; leaves the battlefield, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dance%20of%20the%20Many&quot;&gt;Dance of the Many&lt;/a&gt; gets sacrificed if either token leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-09-20T22:08:46.100" LastActivityDate="2012-09-20T22:08:46.100" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8418" CreationDate="2012-09-21T14:49:56.437" Score="5" ViewCount="2594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at preview cards for Return for Ravnica a question about Unleash popped into my mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSg5T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;It can't block as long as it has a +1/+1 counter on it.&quot;  Simple question really: if you cast Rakdos Cackler &quot;leashed&quot;, and then it subsequently gets a +1/+1 counter from a different source than its Unleash ability, does it become unable to block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the idea of putting +1/+1 counters on my opponent's creatures to allow myself to alpha strike for a win :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:46:50.973" Title="Unleash Unleashed" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8417" CreationDate="2012-09-21T14:55:59.513" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It becomes unable to block&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/211#4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official WotC blog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can choose to have a creature with unleash enter the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter it. As long as it has one or more +1/+1 counters on it, it can't block—&lt;strong&gt;no matter how it got +1/+1 counters&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/faq/rtr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Return to Ravnica FAQ&lt;/a&gt; you can read the rulings on the mechanic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.97. Unleash&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.97a Unleash is a keyword that represents two static abilities. “Unleash” means “You may have this permanent enter the battlefield&#xA;  with an additional +1/+1 counter on it” and “This permanent can’t&#xA;  block as long as it has a +1/+1 counter on it.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruling might not be clear enough so they explain it further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A creature with unleash can’t block if it has any +1/+1 counter on it,&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;not just one put on it by the unleash ability&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, they also add:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Putting a +1/+1 counter on a creature with unleash that’s already&#xA;  blocking won’t remove it from combat. It will continue to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:46:28.147" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:46:28.147" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8417" CreationDate="2012-09-21T16:04:34.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: Does the creature with Unleash have a +1/+1 counter on it? If so, then it can't block. That simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing one should do when wondering how an keyword ability works is to look up the abilities it stand for. Unfortunately, the exact rule text of the ability has not been released yet, and no official answer has been given. That means that any answer is going to be opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reminder text (&quot;It can't block as long as it has a +1/+1 counter on it&quot;) indicates it doesn't matter how it got the +1/+1 counter. (Reminder text is not always 100% accurate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official Wizards blog &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/211#4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;says&lt;/a&gt; it doesn't matter how it got the +1/+1 counter. (They have been wrong before.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/forum/view/75842/134778/Rules_Qamp;A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; forum &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/29387061/RTR_%28contains_spoiler%29&amp;amp;post_id=524261421#524261421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;believes&lt;/a&gt; it doesn't matter how it got the +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All indications point to Unleash being a straightforward static ability that optionally gives a +1/+1 counter, plus a straightforward &lt;em&gt;unrelated&lt;/em&gt; static ability that simply checks for +1/+1 counters. If so, it doesn't matter how it got the +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the rules have now been released, and the earlier answers have been deemed correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.97a Unleash is a keyword that represents two static abilities. “Unleash” means “You may have this permanent enter the battlefield with an additional +1/+1 counter on it” and “This permanent can’t block as long as it has a +1/+1 counter on it.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unleash is static ability that optionally gives a +1/+1 counter, plus an unrelated static ability that simply checks for +1/+1 counters. It doesn't matter how it got the +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:46:50.973" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:46:50.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8426" CreationDate="2012-09-21T16:27:29.693" Score="12" ViewCount="1082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently bought Small World and I'm loving it.  I find it hovers just on the edge of what I find an acceptable play time, but I figure that once it's learned, we can speed it up a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure I'll want to get into the expansions sooner or later, but I know in some games (such as Carcasonne) each expansion makes the game take longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any changes in any of Small World's expansions that lengthen play time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2672" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T00:34:11.813" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T00:34:11.813" Title="Do any Small World expansions lengthen play time?" Tags="|small-world|play-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8456" CreationDate="2012-09-21T18:13:58.797" Score="4" ViewCount="4125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gates are of a cycle of dual lands coming out in Return to Ravnica. There's a gate for each guild (WU, BG, UR, BR, GW), but they always enter the battlefield tapped. These are in stark contrast to the shock lands that reappear in this set (which only enter tapped if you do not pay 2 life), the duals from the core set (which only enter tapped if you do not already have, for example, a swamp or mountain for the dual that taps for R or B (ironically, the gates would allow this to not come in tapped)), and lands from previous sets that came in tapped only you already have a few lands. The Innstrad lands work the same way, even though they aren't always aligned with the guild colors (They have BW, not WU. But they do have BG and UR, very nice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's the background. Is the entering the battlefield tapped going to be too slow? You're basically sacrificing whatever turn you're at to be turn - 1, which is a pretty hefty price to pay (apparently, it's worth 2 life!) Are these only going to see play in limited to facilitate mana fixing that otherwise isn't available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T16:13:20.833" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T16:13:20.833" Title="Are gates too slow for constructed play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8423" CreationDate="2012-09-21T18:21:25.613" Score="7" ViewCount="2083" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, what would happen if a freshly cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotleth%20Troll&quot;&gt;Lotleth Troll&lt;/a&gt; were to be regenerated in response to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Annihilating%20Fire&quot;&gt;Annihilating Fire&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My hypothesis is that it depends on whose turn it is. The regeneration being essentially a replacement effect, when two replacement effects were to be applied simultaneously, they are to be chosen in APNAP order. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't thought this through to the end, though, so I'm not sure what would happen in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3307" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:52:24.833" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T10:52:24.833" Title="What would happen if I used regeneration on a creature that was the target of Annihilating Fire?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8422" CreationDate="2012-09-21T18:39:57.093" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: Annihilating Fire replaces the effect of destruction, but regeneration replaces the destruction itself. Annihilating Fire would not exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacement effects are not applied in APNAP order; they are applied in the order the affected object's controller or the affected player decides [CR 616.1]. But that doesn't matter here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of the state-based action being replaced is as follows [CR 704.5g]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which is to say [CR 701.6a]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed [move it from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say Annihilating Fire replacement effect is applied first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed [exile it from the battlefield].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regeneration doesn't replace death, it replaces destruction [CR 614.8], so we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;that creature has been dealt lethal damage, has all damage marked on it removed, and is tapped. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We get the same result by applying the effects in the opposite order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-09-22T00:32:36.923" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T00:32:36.923" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2012-09-21T19:08:43.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a good approach for this that I adopted early on. Sure I'm late to the party, but we have to deal with these cards for another year anyway, and if the Golgari have anything to say about it, we'll be using a lot of stuff from the Innistrad block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue with double faced cards is clearly protecting your investment by limiting resleeving. To get around this, I put mine in the 100-for-a-dollar clear plastic sleeves with no backing on them. My checklist card goes in my deck like a normal card (with a typical color-backed sleeve) while my clear plastic sleeve comes with my with my tokens. The tokens are also sleeved with the cheap sleeves, because they are just as useful upside down (for random things that you simply need) as they are token side up. This gives them a clever disguise, and hey if something catastrophic happened (some idiot spills a pop on the table) my both my tokens and cards I actually care about (looking at you, Bloodline Keeper) are protected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it perfect? No, but it satisifies my worries: opponent can't see inside my deck until it hits him, protect my cards, make it easy to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T19:08:43.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2012-09-21T21:33:20.877" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I used to play with futures trading, I now explicitly prohibit it for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Problematic/ambiguous mechanics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Consider this case: I trade you a brick and a future wood for your wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, you attempt to cash in the future trade, but I claim to have no wood.  Unless it's obvious that I'm lying, there's no great way to determine whether that's true or not.  Good sportsmanship will solve this problem, but it's easier if the rules avoid situations that breed mistrust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, I have no wood, but do have four sheep that I could trade in.  Can you force me to trade those in for wood to settle the debt I owe you?  (Exacerbated by situations such as, I have ten sheep and a sheep port.)  If I trade the sheep for wood in the process of building something, do you have to be ready to jump in and call in the trade mid-building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I trade away debts, a sort've negative commodity, as I would any other amount of resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you allowed to try and call in the debt after every card I steal from someone with the robber?  I might have the desired resource, but this can also give you an otherwise unavailable insight into what card I stole.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Onerous bookkeeping&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tracking outstanding debts can be an unpleasant process with no natural mechanism outside of keeping a ledger.  This problem is doubled because for every debt both parties will want to track it to have an accurate assessment of their resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Damage to gameplay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The most serious problem with future trades in my experience is that it makes trading too open-ended.  In regular Settlers, there are times when you simply don't have the resources to build everything you want, no matter how much you want to.  You accept it, and continue playing.  With future trades, suddenly there's no limit to what you can offer.  Players go on and on proposing ever more intricate trades so that they can get that great coup this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Veteran players are less susceptible to this than novices, but even they will occasionally fall into gameplay-halting spirals of ever-higher futures offers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1862" LastActivityDate="2012-09-21T21:33:20.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8420" CreationDate="2012-09-22T13:15:04.527" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of Small World's expansions (Grand Dames, Be Not Afraid, Cursed) just add additional races and powers. Those won't lengthen the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/122316/small-world-realms&quot;&gt;Realms&lt;/a&gt; adds a modular board and scenarios. Those will presumably add to the setup time a little, and some of the scenarios might also take longer than an ordinary game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/71818/small-world-tales-and-legends&quot;&gt;Tales &amp;amp; Legends&lt;/a&gt; adds events, which will take a little extra time to resolve and consider the consequences of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/109632/small-world-tunnels&quot;&gt;Tunnels&lt;/a&gt; allows you to play with six players and combine the base game with the standalone follow-on game Small World Underground. It's difficult to imagine that both factors wouldn't considerably increase the play time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T13:15:04.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2012-09-22T15:48:27.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me I have a box for:&#xA;1. Black&#xA;2. Blue&#xA;3. Green&#xA;4. Red&#xA;5. White&#xA;6. Uncommons&#xA;7. Artifacts&#xA;8. Lands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures are separated from non creatures.&#xA;Sorted alphabetically by set.&#xA;Somewhat slimmed down by eliminating cards there are 10 or more of through most of the collection. For good cards like lightning bolt, swords to plowshares, etc. I don't limit at 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3309" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T15:48:27.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2012-09-22T21:05:25.450" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of ways to organize your cards that are efficient. What it is going to come down to, is what sort of efficiency are you looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deck building efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; - This is pretty much a non-issue if you use digital deck builders, but if you don't know exactly what cards you own, it is helpful in finding possible alternatives for cards you want to run but don't own. Because all cards are near other cards of the same color/type, it is easier to find cards to fill out your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color, Card Type, Mana Cost, Alphabetical&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card finding efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; - This reduces the size of all your box divisions, making it easier to find a particular card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set, Alphabetical (or collector number)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trade/Deck Idea efficiency&lt;/strong&gt; - Separating the Rarest cards from the most common cards allows you to easily find more valuable cards, or cards that an entire deck can be built around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rarest/Non-rare, any other sorting criteria.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Size efficiency&lt;/strong&gt;- With many of the other sorting types, you may try to separate the individual Colors/Sets by placing them in their own box and filling up empty space with deckboxes or basic lands. When you organize for space, you need to only separate sections with index cards cut to fit card sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-22T21:05:25.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8430" CreationDate="2012-09-23T01:03:51.813" Score="6" ViewCount="1474" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Dark Ages cards only in play, what are some strategies for dealing with a deck clogged with ruins (assuming that each player has an equal clogged deck)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only strategies that seemed effective in playing DA is using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=storeroom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Storeroom&lt;/a&gt; (only promising a minimum of $4), &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=altar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altar&lt;/a&gt; (which is nice because it trades Ruins for Duchies or good actions, but can be hard to raise the $6 with a clogged deck), or &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.diehrstraits.com/?card=beggar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beggar&lt;/a&gt; (when you have 5 coin in hand, using a Beggar adds 3 Copper immediately to the hand, giving you $8 for that province).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other ideas for effectively dealing with ruins, with only Dark Ages cards in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:07:38.940" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:07:38.940" Title="Dominion Dark Ages: Ruin Strategies" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8429" CreationDate="2012-09-23T01:40:00.880" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strategies used against Cultist and Marauder, the two offensive Ruins-giving cards, are similar to the strategies used against Curse-givers in other sets. Ruins are not quite as bad as Curses, since the cards have a little bit of utility and don't carry a VP penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said: Dark Ages has lots of light trashing to help you handle both unwanted Coppers and Shelters, and any Ruins that might come your way. &lt;strong&gt;Hermit&lt;/strong&gt; is a dynamite Ruins-trasher, since you don't actually have to line it up in the same hand and it can give you Silver (or more Hermits) to overcome deck dilution. &lt;strong&gt;Junk Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; cleans your deck up and provides a bit of buying power too. &lt;strong&gt;Forager&lt;/strong&gt; doesn't usually give much buying power, but it's cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more obliquely, &lt;strong&gt;Procession&lt;/strong&gt; can give you a benefit and clear out the Ruins as well, although you'll want other targets for it. &lt;strong&gt;Death Cart&lt;/strong&gt; inflicts Ruins on yourself--but $5 is an incredible chunk of change, and you won't lack for targets if your opponents are giving you Ruins as well. If you have lots of junk, &lt;strong&gt;Sage&lt;/strong&gt; can help you wade through the bad stuff to find your Junk Dealers or Altars. &lt;strong&gt;Count&lt;/strong&gt; can clear a lot of junk from your deck at once; put the only good card on top of your deck, then choose the &quot;trash your hand&quot; option. And &lt;strong&gt;Catacombs&lt;/strong&gt; deals with junk by letting you discard it and draw something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You brought up &lt;strong&gt;Beggar&lt;/strong&gt; and having two Silvers is pretty great. The gain-three-Coppers option, if you don't get attacked, depends a lot on the deck. It's great for Duchy and alternative-VP rushes (Gardens, of course...); less so if you have Provinces in mind for the endgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note: &lt;strong&gt;Rats&lt;/strong&gt; looks like an attractive trasher, and it is powerful in that regard, but then you have to get rid of the Rats! I think Rats combines best with trash-for-benefit cards like Apprentice, Bishop, and Salvager, and not so well with most Dark Ages cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T01:40:00.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9313" CreationDate="2012-09-23T14:44:59.710" Score="5" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are sitting &quot;East&quot; (with dummy to your right), and your partner West leads a low (presumably fourth best) card in a suit against a 3 no trump contract. When dummy plays low from &quot;nothing,&quot; and you hold KT6 of the suit, you are usually expected to play &quot;third hand high,&quot; i.e. the king, either forcing out, or trapping South's supposedly lone honor. When the suit is established, you can usually defeat the contract. (According to Kantar.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in a problem in another bridge book, declarer held QJ74 in the suit, and the correct play was the T, not the K. Since this is a problem, focus only on the following (unless you are constructing a counterexample).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't see the 2 in dummy, so West probably has it for a fifth card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 5 played by dummy is singleton, so given this fact, 1) above, and your KT6, declarer has four, not the usual three cards in the suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;West has either A of his led suit and no side entry, (as was the case in the problem), or the Q or J and a side entry. In either case, declarer has two honors (and two small cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have ONE side entry, a Kxxx offsuit dummy's AQJx in another suit. This is enough to defeat the 3NT contract if you get four tricks in West's led suit by leading through declarer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to the problem was to play the T and try to induce declarer to cover with the Q or J. If declarer failed to &quot;split honors&quot; (and playing the king would discourage this), declarer would make his contract. But most declarers WOULD split honors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you tell that you should play the T and not the K. Is it the four cards in declarer? Is it the double honor with declarer? Are there other considerations that I haven't addressed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other examples where playing &quot;third hand high&quot; would be wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T16:54:32.903" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T17:03:46.160" Title="In bridge, what are exceptions to &quot;third hand high?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8447" CreationDate="2012-09-23T15:37:50.847" Score="3" ViewCount="860" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find some of the alliances in the new edition of Warhammer confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at Tau, for instance, they are Battle Brothers with Eldar and Spacemarines, although neither of these are, to my knowledge allies of the Tau in the fluff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I noticed that Eldar are Battle Brothers to Dark Eldar...hang on, I though that these were deadly enemies of one another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also we have the blood angels - necron pairing (fluff), and the Sisters of Battle - Grey Knights as allies of convienince only (anti-fluff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these pairings in the rulebook based on fluff? On the mechanics of each army? Something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T13:06:42.547" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T13:18:35.083" Title="What is the reasoning behind some of the allies, in 6th edition Warhammer?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8434" CreationDate="2012-09-23T18:05:46.420" Score="18" ViewCount="2825" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin, Can a Wizard use his charm ability when he has no cards to discard in the hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T19:26:15.133" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T05:29:30.113" Title="Can a Wizard use his charm ability with no cards in the hand?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8433" CreationDate="2012-09-23T18:35:43.987" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No he can't&lt;/strong&gt;, although official evidence is a little circumstantial. This question is in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/include/faq/wizards.inc&quot;&gt;old version&lt;/a&gt; of the Munchkin FAQ (but not the current one):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. A wizard must discard his hand to use his charm ability. Can he do &#xA;  this if he has no cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. No. If you have no cards, you don't have a hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is corroborated on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://munchkin.wikia.com/wiki/Wizard&quot;&gt;Munchkin wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can't use the wizard's abilities if you don't have any cards in your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T18:35:43.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8439" CreationDate="2012-09-23T19:30:17.577" Score="17" ViewCount="19239" Body="&lt;p&gt;This afternoon my wife tried to play a green 8 on top of a red 2 in &lt;strong&gt;Uno&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously a mistake on her part and I could find nothing in the rules to suggest that there was a penalty so we allowed her to withdraw the green 8 and play another card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do state that a &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw 4&lt;/strong&gt; play can be challenged, but no other misplays are called out that I saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone aware of this situation being covered, perhaps in a previous ruleset, or maybe I'm just overlooking it (It's been known to happen!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T17:03:53.287" Title="Is there a penalty for misplaying?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-23T21:03:48.437" Score="6" ViewCount="2879" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read most of the articles about regeneration in MTG, but my question albeit being somewhat basic, still finds no answer. Here's the scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with a creature that has the ability to regenerate. My opponent blocks it with a deathtouch creature. I paid the regeneration cost before attacking. I know my creature is to be tapped, remove all damage, survive the destruction effect, then be removed from combat. What I want to know is does my creature deals its combat damage to my opponent's creature before it is pulled out of combat by its ability? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I would say yes, because the damage is done in a step before the 'death' effect triggers, hence I regenerate post-combat damage. But somehow my friend doubted that, and it made me doubt too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3314" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-23T21:56:01.593" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T03:08:57.600" Title="Another aspect of regeneration in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8436" CreationDate="2012-09-23T21:46:49.443" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The penalty for misplaying a card, is that now your opponents know you have that card in your hand. Besides that though, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://unotips.org/pdf/official_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; (2003) state the penalty (among other listed penalties):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player plays a wrong card and it is noticed by any other player, he/she must take the card back and take two extra cards from the DRAW pile. Play continues with the next player in turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears as if the penalty section was removed from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/UNO%20Basic%20IS.pdf&quot;&gt;2008 printing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T01:44:32.773" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T01:44:32.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-09-23T22:01:30.890" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, combat damage is dealt simultaneously.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1. First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. A player assigns a creature's combat damage according to the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, &lt;strong&gt;all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your regenerating creature will assign its combat damage if it survives to the Combat Damage Step in which it will deal damage (I.e. if the defending creature had First Strike, and your creature did not, it may receive lethal damage before getting to its Combat Damage Step. The Combat phase is divided into 5 steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of Combat Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.5. If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature is removed from combat before the Combat Damage Step, it will not assign or deal any damage. Setting up a regeneration shield is not one of the listed methods of removing a creature from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it leaves play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it regenerates [CR 419.6b]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;its controller changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it stops being a creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an effect removes it from combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-23T22:15:12.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8437" CreationDate="2012-09-23T22:12:59.440" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Both creatures deal their damage simultaneously [CR 510.2].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the damage wasn't dealt simultaneously, they would still both deal damage to each other because nothing dies when having damage dealt to it!! The damage is simply marked on the creature [CR 119.3e]. Shortly after, state-based actions are checked and performed. That's when the creatures are killed or regeneration occurs [CR 704.5g and 704.5h]. (All those occur simultaneously too [CR 704.3].)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Infect and Wither cause -1/-1 counters to be given instead having damage marked. But similarly, it's an SBA that later kills the creature for having non-positive toughness [CR 704.5f].)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referenced rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3e Damage dealt to a creature by a source with neither wither nor infect causes that much damage to be marked on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5h If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and it’s been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked, that creature is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T03:08:57.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8488" CreationDate="2012-09-23T23:22:01.413" Score="13" ViewCount="23243" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/8436/40&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; revealed that there has been at least one (albeit minor) rules change for Uno recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes me curious to know if there have been any other changes to the rules over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does today's Uno differ from the Uno of my youth?&lt;/strong&gt;  I'm only referring to standard Uno, not any themed version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T03:32:12.873" Title="What rules changes have there been in Uno?" Tags="|history|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8449" CreationDate="2012-09-24T03:56:09.030" Score="3" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do heroes recover health at the end of each encounter or at the end of each quest (usually two encounters)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T16:36:23.880" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T22:13:48.507" Title="Do heroes recover health and fatigue at the end of each quest?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8444" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8450" CreationDate="2012-09-24T05:28:00.253" Score="6" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a hero move by spending fatigue without a move action? Can he do this more than once a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T14:56:38.653" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T14:56:38.653" Title="Can a hero move by spending fatigue without a move action?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2012-09-24T07:32:44.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have played go for a while, a full board can seem like a natural place to learn. Obviously it is possible; So that asks the question: &quot;Why do so many people learn on a 9x9 board?&quot; and &quot;Why does a 9x9 board exist at all?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found, (past 10 years of teaching Go), that a 9x9 is the right place to teach people. There are lots of reasons, (that you will probably find in the other answers - &quot;get through your first 100 games quickly&quot;), but my top reason is fear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19x19 lines &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like 18x18 squares to someone that has learnt to play, almost all other board games. The mind can boggle at how complicated that must be; A 9x9 &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like 8x8 squares, which is the same dimensions as some other games use, (though they are mostly tactic based games and Go adds strategy into the mix.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to sum up, some reasons to learn on a 9x9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friendly size&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get through teaching games quicker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn the rules without the distraction of the deeper complexities, (the fun part), getting in the way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheaper to make or buy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easier to store&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3288" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T07:32:44.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8421" CreationDate="2012-09-24T10:47:03.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all decks will be active turn 1, and while there might not be a lot of cards that use Gates at the moment, you can probably intimate from the name &quot;Gatecrash&quot; that they'll have a lot more of a role in the next set. They're being released now because they're being released with their guilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking of which, all of the Innistrad dual-lands pair with a guild. R2R only features five of the ten guilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3316" LastEditorUserId="3316" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T16:38:07.600" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T16:38:07.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8432" CreationDate="2012-09-24T12:28:20.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the reasoning behind the allies matrix is 60% fluff, 10% balance, and 30% Matt Ward lolz. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the matrix is what you would expect from reading the basic fluff.  Guard working with the other imperial factions and with a few of the others to represent renegades.  Tyranids can't ally with anyone because they would just eat them.  Tau will work with anybody if it will advance the greater good.  There's been some talk of the Emperor giving instructions to certain Marine legions to protect a certain alien race(hence the Marines and Tau being battle brothers).  And the Eldar/Dark Eldar works a little better if you consider one part of the pair to be Eldar Corsairs instead of true Craftworld or Commorragh Eldar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fluff is in a state of flux right now.  The Matt Ward authored codexes have done a number on established cannon.  This is behind some of the weirder combinations you see in the matrix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think game balance was secondary to fluff when deciding who gets to ally with whom.  Otherwise the Tyranids would have at least one ally option.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T12:28:20.943" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8444" CreationDate="2012-09-24T13:04:11.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, to both questions. One fatigue for one movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T13:04:11.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8443" CreationDate="2012-09-24T13:13:10.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heroes do not recover health at the end of each encounter, only fatigue. Heroes do recover full health and fatigue at the end of each Quest (two encounters).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent-second-ed/support/DJ01_Rulebook_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; regarding &lt;strong&gt;Quests&lt;/strong&gt; (page 18):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heroes keep all damage suffered during Encounter 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Heroes recover all fatigue suffered during Encounter 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and (page 20) &lt;strong&gt;The Campaign Phase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2). &lt;strong&gt;Cleanup&lt;/strong&gt;: All heroes recover all damage and all fatigue....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T22:13:48.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8444" CreationDate="2012-09-24T13:32:28.817" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, fatigue tokens may be used as often as you like to gain movement points.&lt;/strong&gt; These movement points are spent just like regular movement points, to perform Movement Actions or to move (gold chart page 16 shows examples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent/descentrules.pdf&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 18):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spending Fatigue for Movement&lt;/strong&gt; - At any time during a hero’s turn, he may spend one fatigue to gain one movement point, even if he is currently taking the battle action. This may be done as often as the hero desires. Movement points gained in this manner are spent just like normal movement points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T13:32:28.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8454" CreationDate="2012-09-24T14:10:55.460" Score="4" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I opened a &quot;strong two clubs.&quot; Partner bid 2 NT, which between us, meant &quot;9-plus points, slam interest.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bid my suit, 3 spades, with the following: (s) AKQxxx (h) AKx (d) Ax (c) xx. That's a 6-card suit with 22 points (20 in high cards, two more for the minor doubletons).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Responder bid 4NT, and we ended up in 6 Spades, which went down, because my left hand opponent had JTxxx of spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner had: (s) x (h) xxxx (d)Kxxx (c) AKxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She said, &quot;I had 10 HCP, 12 counting the spade singleton. That, with your 22 should mean a small slam.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My response was, &quot;Spade singleton&quot; was the whole point. You should have downgraded your hand when you  heard 3 spades, because you didn't have normal trump support. If you had xxx or Jx, the contract would probably have been made.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should partner had &quot;downgraded her hand&quot; and refrained from bidding the slam with shortness in my spade suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T17:12:14.993" Title="In bridge,should a responder devalue her hand if short in opener's suit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8452" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-24T16:07:06.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; card game, you assume control of the fate of an &lt;em&gt;eccentric family&lt;/em&gt; of misfits and misanthropes. The goal of the game is sad, but simple: you want your characters to suffer the greatest tragedies possible before passing on to the well-deserved respite of death. The player with the lowest total &lt;em&gt;Family Value&lt;/em&gt; wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed on transparent plastic cards, &lt;strong&gt;Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; features an innovative design: Multiple modifier cards can be played on top of the same character card; since the cards are transparent, elements from previously played modifier cards either show through or are obscured by those played above them. You'll immediately and easily know the worth of every character, no matter how many modifiers they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwzRq.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/images/CthulhuGloomCardFanWEB.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can play with &lt;strong&gt;Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; system in the &lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu&lt;/strong&gt; Universe. Instead of families, in &lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu Gloom&lt;/strong&gt;, you control a group of Lovecraftian protagonists and guide them down a path of horror and madness to an untimely death, while keeping your opponents happy, healthy, and annoyingly alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; is a stand-alone card game that's also fully compatible with Gloom and its expansions. It introduces Story cards and Transformation cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-24T16:09:30.803" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T16:09:30.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8453" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-24T16:07:06.827" Score="0" Body="In the Gloom card game, you assume control of the fate of an eccentric family. The goal is to make your family suffer the worst possible tragedies before they pass from this mortal coil, while cheering up your opponents' families." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:25:03.297" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:25:03.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2012-09-24T18:37:17.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Bidding your suit&quot; typically means 4 or 5 card length.  Because of that, I would expect the bidding to go more like this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Partner sitting there with one card in that suit would then respond with their suit (4C in this case), which denies support for your spades and shows that clubs is their best suit.  The new suit bid is forcing, so it's now back to you to decide what to do.  Partner doesn't have your spades, but you can rebid them since you've got 6 of 'em.  If you really want to you can make a NT bid, since partner should have your one weak suit covered.  Whatever you reply with, partner has a chance to correct if they're significantly over the 9+ they've promised.  With the length you've got, a spade rebid is valid and 4S should be a solid contract.  After that you each have to decide if you're going to go to Blackwood and look for the slam possibility.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Sure there's interest in slam, but there's no 8-card fit.  And the bidding should show that.  Someone has to make the call as to whether or not to go there, and at what point the bidding stops.  That's whoever makes the Blackwood bid.  With an even split, you get it.  Without, you don't.  As long as the player making that bid understands the risk involved and wants to go for it, it's all good.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If both of you understood the danger you were getting into and the possibility of a bad split ruining it all, then I can't say you've got any problems in the bidding.  If on the other hand someone thought the slam was solid, then I'd say that your bidding needs to be a bit more descriptive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In specific though, YES, there are two specific situations where shortness doesn't give ANY points:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) In the trump suit&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) In a NT contract  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's one of the more reliable rules in bridge.  8 )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T18:37:17.953" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8421" CreationDate="2012-09-24T21:01:36.640" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: unconditionally entering the battlefield tapped leaves them at too great a disadvantage with respect to the other options, and these lands are designed for limited play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, there's essentially no advantage to using Gates over the corresponding shocklands or core set/Innistrad duals; since there's virtually no land type specific LD, gates are for all practical purposes strictly worse than their corresponding shocklands, because the shocklands can be fetched with Farseek and otherwise have the option of coming into play untapped if you're willing to take the hit.  Likewise, the core/Inn lands are exactly like the Gates except for the possibility of coming into play untapped on turn 2+ (and note that the shocklands 'turn on' the core lands, which is another point in shocklands' favor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between these two factors, the only thing that Gatelands have to offer over the other choices is that little word: 'Gate'.  If there were cards that took real advantage of the gate type - say, something like a Rampant Growth/Farseek for Gates - then I think you would actually see them getting some play in ramp decks.  As it is, though, the only cards that interact with Gates are a couple of creatures (none of which is within constructed-stats range) that gain small benefits for gates in play and Gatecreeper Vine, which fetches a gate but - unfortunately - doesn't put it into play.  This means that the land type (at least for now) isn't offering any upside to offset the advantages that the other styles of dual have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why do they exist?  Well, pretty much for the reason that you noted; RTR limited is going to need quite a bit of manafixing since there are so many multicolor cards; this means putting fixing down into the common slots.  And while Rarity Is Not Power, WotC has a number of reasons for not having rares 'outclassed' in substantial ways by commons, and they've done very few powerful land cycles at common (or even uncommon) - you can generally expect that any land-based mana fixing that winds up in the common slot is going to be a little bit weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T22:29:16.290" LastActivityDate="2012-09-25T22:29:16.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8109" CreationDate="2012-09-24T22:30:11.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The in/out of print status has no bearing on ownership of copyright for a work. Since you modified the question to be about the UK, the governing authority is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipo.gov.uk/types/copy/c-duration/c-types.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intellectual Property Office&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;IANAL&lt;/strong&gt;, this does not constitute legal advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term of protection or duration of copyright varies depending on the type of copyright work. The term of protection in the UK for an original written (literary), theatrical (dramatic) musical or artistic work lasts for the &lt;strong&gt;life of the creator plus 70 years&lt;/strong&gt; from the end of the year in which he/she died.  ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also note that. for copyright works originating outside the UK or another country of the European Economic Area (EEA), the term of protection may be shorter if it is shorter in the country of origin. There may also be variations in the term where a work was created before 1 January 1996.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional, since many works might be owned by a company, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ipo.gov.uk/types/copy/c-ownership/c-employer.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IPO&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An employer should keep careful records of which person(s) created the work for them which they own. The period of copyright protection may still be linked to the date of the death of the creator(s) - that is the employee(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-24T22:36:10.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8458" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-25T07:58:33.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An expansion pack, expansion set, or supplement is an addition to an existing Board or Card game. These add-ons usually add new game areas, weapons, objects, and/or an extended storyline to a complete and already released game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As expansion packs consist solely of additional content, most expansion packs require the original game in order to play. Although another expansion packs, called stand-alone expansion packs, do not require the original game in order to use the new content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Expansion_pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please use the game's own tag as well (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan&lt;/a&gt;), and consider using the tag specific to the expansion itself (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-seafarers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan-seafarers&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-seafarers&lt;/a&gt;) if it exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T20:59:58.167" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T20:59:58.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8459" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-25T07:58:33.037" Score="0" Body="An expansion is an addition to an existing Board or Card game. These add-ons usually add new content to a complete and already released game. Please use the game's own tag as well, and consider using the tag specific to the expansion itself (if it exists)." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-01-04T21:00:05.210" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T21:00:05.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4275" CreationDate="2012-09-25T10:44:36.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;h1&gt;TL;DR Yes they can, however the rules for alliances vary by edition&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As well as with some others...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MaG7i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Necron fist-bumping a space marine, which standing in a field of dead Tyranids&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;History of Allies&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously in second edition there were rules in each codex for who could ally with who, specifically mentioning which armies you were allowed to team up with. From what I can tell you could just add any unit you wanted to your force.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Come third edition, these rules had gone and been replaced with a system for using multiple force organization charts to field multiple armies. (Page 131 of the 3rd edition rule book)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Space Marine Chapter allies backstory:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting from '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.inisfail.com/kaptingavrin/40k-allies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Using Allies in Warhammer 40,000&lt;/a&gt;' here is a view of space marine allies in previous editions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Space Marines:&lt;/strong&gt;  Space Marines hold the &amp;quot;typical&amp;quot; Imperial view of other races:  They are untrustworthy Heretics who should only be regarded as subjects for conquest.  However, Space Marines also have a history of looking down their noses even at other military forces within the Imperium, regarding Imperial Guard and Ministorum forces as &amp;quot;only human&amp;quot;.  Even so, Space Marines will work with other Imperial forces, as all are fighting for the best interests of Mankind.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When circumstances dictate, Space Marines will sometimes fight alongside Eldar or Ork forces, especially in times of war against the Chaos forces.  While it is degrading to the average Space Marine to fight alongside such heretical filth, it is sometimes necessary to do so in order to protect their Emperor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are however some caveats, quoting again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Space Wolves and Dark Angels&lt;/strong&gt;:  These two Space Marine chapters do not work well with each other, as they have a long-standing feud going back to the days of their Primarchs.  But this feud is always put aside in the face of a dangerous foe.  However, it is not forgotten.  Before battle, one Marine is picked from both chapters to act as a &amp;quot;champion&amp;quot;, and these two champions fight a duel in memory of the duel between their two Primarchs, so many years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dark Angels/Black Templars:&lt;/strong&gt;  Dark Angels and Black Templars have always been extremely anti-alien, refusing to work with them even in the most dire of circumstances.  Though most Space Marine chapters will ally themselves with alien forces if the needs dictate such an alliance, &lt;em&gt;these two chapters will never work alongside any force that is not human&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That covers some of the backstory of the armies, and some of the history from the hobby side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;6th edition&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new ally rules out in &lt;strong&gt;6th edition&lt;/strong&gt; you are able to combine two different spacemarine armies together, most of which are battle brothers or allies of convenience. There is, as I have linked, a look-up table or matrix to reference when pairing up allies. Also note that the minimum number of units needed to be fielded in a secondary army is far fewer than your primary, but there is room for your force to grow if you so wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YejAiG2WtjQ/UBymLAUvObI/AAAAAAAABhs/_ilcoKLcm9Q/s1600/IMAG0330.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page 113&lt;/a&gt; of the 6th edition rule book for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiSAn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CiSAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ally matrix for 6th edition&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;6th edition ally matrix&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the other chapters space marine allies include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battle Brothers:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Black_Templars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Templars&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Blood_angels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blood Angels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Dark_Angels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dark Angels&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Space_Wolves&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Space Wolves&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allies of Convenience&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Grey_Knight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've linked them through to the articles about them on the WH40K Lexicanum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst I don't want to list &lt;strong&gt;every&lt;/strong&gt; ally of the specialized space marine chapters, they mostly show the above pattern, baring Space Wolves and Dark Angels whom consider each other only Allies of Convenience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;7th Edition&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This edition &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.belloflostsouls.net/2020/03/warhammer-40k-a-history-of-editions-6th-7th-edition.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;behaves much like the previous edition&lt;/a&gt;, except it has an updated matrix of Allies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ie89w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ie89w.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Seventh edition allies matrix&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;Seventh edition allies matrix&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is that all units from the Armies of the Imperium are Battle Brothers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;8th Editon&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most comprehensive guide I've found to the 8th edition allies is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goonhammer.com/detachments-and-stratagems-what-are-they-and-how-do-i-get-them/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short you're free to make an army with any number of different component units, in free play. Competition play has more rules, as described in this other &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.goonhammer.com/start-competing-imperium-soup-tactics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goonhammer article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This edition has a marked change to how allies work. Now armies now have Faction Keywords, and each detachment of your army must all have have the same 'Superfaction' keyword. Then to gain the benefits of a faction, the members of that detachment must be members of that faction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2obFv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2obFv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Faction hierarchies documented by 'Goonhammer'&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These keywords, and adhering to the above Superfaction, faction and subfaction keywords give you access to more Command points allowing special actions during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article is very well written, and goes in depth into how to form an army. Suffice to say, it's much more nuanced how to build an army with different allies than previous edition, but still possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, now you can combine spacemarine armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2020-08-20T12:15:42.870" LastActivityDate="2020-08-20T12:15:42.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-25T11:29:48.420" Score="7" ViewCount="2847" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the electronic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/online/en/t2r/europe-pocket/&quot;&gt;'pocket' version&lt;/a&gt; of Ticket to Ride: Europe, I would like to acquire all the achievements, but I must have misunderstood some of them. Even when I think I've accomplished them, I do not get them. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;win while connecting all 4 surrounding countries&lt;/em&gt;&quot;- which 4 countries are we talking about, surrounding what? Each other? Like Austria, Hungary, Italy and Croatia e.g.?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;win without claiming any tunnel route&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. I've won many times without using a single tunnel, but still no achievement. A route can be finished with or without tunnels, but does this requirement mean that when I get the map, there is no possible tunnel involved between the two cities?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3320" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T14:38:52.763" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T09:39:55.680" Title="What are the requirements for the achievements in Ticket to Ride: Europe?" Tags="|online|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8463" CreationDate="2012-09-25T22:37:35.910" Score="11" ViewCount="19404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started learning Japanese Mahjong and I am a bit lost as to why this hand failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did several pons and chis over the course of a hand, having a total of three open melds (one set and two sequences).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from these I had an incomplete bamboo sequence of II and III as well as a pair of dragons, therefore I was on a single wait for I or IV bamboo stick tile. When the IV tile appeared in one of the discards of other players, I was given a choice to do another chi and declare another open meld, but I couldn't win with a ron. Why was that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong that winning by ron guarantees a single needed yaku to win a hand, just like Closed Tsumo does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After declaring the chi I was offered with, my hand was left with a single pair of tiles, one of which I had to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually the round finished with a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why couldn't I win this hand with a ron on the IV bamboo tile, and why was I given only the choice of chi instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3322" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-25T23:05:02.100" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T14:31:46.127" Title="Why couldn't this hand win with ron?" Tags="|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8462" CreationDate="2012-09-26T07:13:15.217" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Calling &lt;em&gt;ron&lt;/em&gt; does not give you a &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt;.  What it will do is increase the &lt;em&gt;fu&lt;/em&gt; count of your hand, but only if the hand is closed.  However, winning from a &lt;em&gt;ron&lt;/em&gt; on an open hand does not increase the point value at all; contrarily, you could instead claim a 2-&lt;em&gt;fu&lt;/em&gt; bonus by winning on a &lt;em&gt;tsumo&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your hand is opened, the only way to win is to have a &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; that does not rely on a closed hand.  Opening your hand before you have a guaranteed &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt;, or a good chance of building one, is often a mistake; not only does keeping your hand closed increase the number of &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; you can potentially make (especially &quot;easy&quot; &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; such as &lt;em&gt;pinfu&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;tanyao&lt;/em&gt;), but you also have the option of adding the needed &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; just by calling &lt;em&gt;riichi&lt;/em&gt; on an otherwise worthless hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to open your hand, some common open-hand &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; which can be built follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yakuhai&lt;/strong&gt;: A complete set (not pair) of dragons, seat wind, or table wind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chanta&lt;/strong&gt;: Every set contains either honor tiles, or at least one terminal (1 or 9) tile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Itsu&lt;/strong&gt;: Three melds &quot;123&quot;, &quot;456&quot;, &quot;789&quot; of a single suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Honitsu&lt;/strong&gt;: All tiles, except for honor tiles, comprise a single suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Toitoi&lt;/strong&gt;: Every set is either three or four of a kind (i.e. no &lt;em&gt;chi&lt;/em&gt; melds)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some rulesets also allow a &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; for an open &lt;em&gt;tanyao&lt;/em&gt; (no honors or terminal tiles).  There are of course others, but I find these listed above are typically the easiest to make on an open hand, especially if you open early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you can't memorize all of the &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt;-bearing hands yet, it's worth it to at least memorize these ones for when you choose to go the open-hand route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, given the (incomplete) description of your hand, your best bet would've been to wait for a third dragon so as to claim a &lt;em&gt;yakuhai yaku&lt;/em&gt;, and hoping to complete a pair involving one of your two bamboo tiles (while tossing the other).  Calling &lt;em&gt;chi&lt;/em&gt; on the bamboo actually harmed your hand, since you no longer had any reliable way to form any &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not knowing the makeup of your open melds, I don't know if calling &lt;em&gt;chi&lt;/em&gt; on a &lt;code&gt;I Bamboo&lt;/code&gt; (instead of a &lt;code&gt;IV Bamboo&lt;/code&gt;) would've completed a &lt;em&gt;chanta&lt;/em&gt; (or possibly an &lt;em&gt;itsu&lt;/em&gt;) hand; even if it was possible, it would still be a risky wait as passing on the &lt;code&gt;IV Bamboo&lt;/code&gt; (while waiting on the &lt;code&gt;I Bamboo&lt;/code&gt;) would put you into &lt;em&gt;furiten&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T07:33:38.473" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T07:33:38.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8464" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-26T10:41:42.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/strong&gt; is a fast-paced, cooperative dice game of supernatural intrigue for one to eight players by &lt;em&gt;Richard Launius&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Kevin Wilson&lt;/em&gt;, the designers of &lt;strong&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/strong&gt;. Players take the roles of investigators racing against time to stave off the imminent return of the &lt;strong&gt;Ancient Ones&lt;/strong&gt;. Armed with cards for tools, allies, and occult knowledge, investigators must put their sanity and stamina to the test as they adventure to locate &lt;strong&gt;Elder Signs&lt;/strong&gt;, the eldritch symbols used to seal away the &lt;strong&gt;Ancient Ones&lt;/strong&gt; and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aDflg.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To locate &lt;strong&gt;Elder Signs&lt;/strong&gt;, investigators must successfully endure Adventures within the museum and its environs. A clever and thematic dice mechanic pits their exploration against monsters and the sheer difficulty of staying sane and healthy, all within the standard game duration of one to two hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T15:18:00.847" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T15:18:00.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8465" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-26T10:41:42.587" Score="0" Body="Elder Sign is a fast-paced, cooperative dice game of supernatural intrigue. Players take the roles of investigators racing against time to stave off the imminent return of the Ancient Ones. Investigators must put their sanity and stamina to the test as they adventure to locate Elder Signs to seal away the Ancient Ones and win the game." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T15:18:05.497" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T15:18:05.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8466" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-26T11:07:11.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A miniature figure is a small-scale representation of a historical or mythological entity used in miniature wargames, role-playing games, and dioramas. Miniature figures are commonly made of metal, plastic, or paper. They are used to augment the visual aspects of a game and track position, facing, and line of sight of characters. Miniatures are typically painted and can be artfully sculpted, making them collectible in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miniature_figure_(gaming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miniature_figure_(gaming&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/modelling&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'modelling'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;modelling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T20:28:42.100" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T20:28:42.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8467" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-26T11:07:11.440" Score="0" Body="A miniature is a small-scale representation of a game element used in miniature wargames, role-playing games, and other tabletop games." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T12:01:34.743" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T12:01:34.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4545" CreationDate="2012-09-26T11:53:26.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/166463/not-a-bad-little-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; there's a house rule that the players can choose which direction to rotate the board.  In order to choose the direction, players should consider the resources they gain, as well as the resources their opponents gain (or lose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further down in the thread are several other suggestions for introducing more choice into how to rotate the board (e.g. roll two dice and pick one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also saw a suggestion that trading could be introduced to reduce the amount of luck, but I haven't seen any reports of whether that was successful or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T11:53:26.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8471" CreationDate="2012-09-26T16:42:26.950" Score="13" ViewCount="5558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reviewing the a spreadsheet I created of the RTR spoiler to prepare my strategy for this coming weekend. In doing so, I noticed that here and on previous sets if a creature has flying, it is virtually always the first ability listed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I see a strong parallel between Magic card abilities and &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/a/7398230/330057&quot;&gt;Java class, method, and member modifiers&lt;/a&gt;. In the same vein that a &lt;code&gt;public static int&lt;/code&gt; is syntactically the same as a &lt;code&gt;static public int&lt;/code&gt;, a creature that is &lt;code&gt;flying, deathtouch&lt;/code&gt; is the same as &lt;code&gt;deathtouch, flying&lt;/code&gt;. But you never really see the latter, only the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A search of the official rules didn't indicate anything, nor did Google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a canonical, conventional, or official order by which I can expect cards to have their abilities listed on the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I take back one comment. Faerie Invaders has Flash before Flying. Perhaps Flash is 'more important' than Flying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:40:31.240" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T21:07:41.183" Title="Is there a specified order for abilities on cards, specifically creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8469" CreationDate="2012-09-26T17:27:55.450" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a rules standpoint, the order in which the abilities are written is of no importance. (The exception is spell abilities. They are performed in order. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Footbottom%20Feast&quot;&gt;Footbottom Feast&lt;/a&gt; has two spell abilities.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a clarity standpoint, placing abilities in a predictable order and placing certain abilities before others makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card designers spend considerable effort making the cards as clear as possible, so they adhere to some form of convention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know if they publish these conventions, and I'm sure they are fluid (changed as needed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-09-26T19:02:32.380" LastActivityDate="2012-09-26T19:02:32.380" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8469" CreationDate="2012-09-26T20:50:18.123" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question has come up in the distant past, so there is no telling whether the design philosophy has changed. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/askwizards/0606&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;June 2006 Ask Wizards&lt;/a&gt; column,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: I've noticed on creatures with multiple keywords (flying, trample, etc.) that the keywords are in a certain order. For instance, Flying comes before First Strike and First Strike comes before Trample (Just look at Akroma, Angel of Wrath). My question is: Imagine that there was a creature printed with every keyword in Magic, what is the ordering of the keywords and is there any logical pattern to the ordering? --Matthew Burnaby, BC, Canada&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: From Del Laugel, Senior Editor: The short answer is that there's no fixed order for keywords. I check Oracle for similar cards whenever an unusual combination comes up, but my top priority is getting the individual cards to read well. But what fun is a short answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Following is an example card with just about every keyword ever, &lt;strong&gt;Keyword Ultimus&lt;/strong&gt;, cut from this answer for brevity]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a now-disappeared thread from the shut down &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/18985998/Whats_the_order_for_evergreen_keywords?pg=2&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;wizards community forum&lt;/a&gt;, a user &lt;strong&gt;magicalblender&lt;/strong&gt; supposedly compiled a list of evergreen keywords, and which ones always proceed the other. I cannot verify the correctness of this claim, as I haven't updated my &lt;code&gt;cards.mwsbase&lt;/code&gt; database with the most recent cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T21:07:41.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7744" CreationDate="2012-09-27T09:34:25.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find it's more important to get a solid, sizeable piece in early than it is to worry about exactly what that piece is. Since you're building in real time against opponents, part of the strategy is not letting them have the chance to take all the good pieces. Solid choices are most 4-ways, or cargo, or a gun/engine at the ship bottom. Avoid powered pieces if you can, until you know that you're going to want to build for/with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid crew for the first piece if you can, due to epidemic. Shields and batteries become more useful with the expansion, where you can perfectly protect a ship with boosted shields. That said, if there's incoming laser fire that you see and you're going to have to deal with it, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, 7 is the single most likely result. Having guns covering each 7 row/column is a good safety measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of side/backwards guns are great for protection from meteors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all ships, more important than the exact piece in the middle is that the middle is connective, and that the ship is built without open connectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T09:34:25.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8475" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-27T12:38:30.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Star Wars: The Card Game&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player card game that puts one player in control of the light side of the Force and the other in control of the dark side. Set within the time frame of the original Star Wars trilogy, the light side has three affiliated factions: Jedi, Rebel Alliance, &amp;amp; Smugglers and Spies, while the dark side controls the Sith, Imperial Navy, &amp;amp; Scum and Villainy affiliations. Additionally, each side has access to unaffiliated (neutral) cards, namely light side neutral and dark side neutral respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player's deck is composed of objective cards (usually 10) representing missions, strategies, &amp;amp; other important story narratives, plus a deck of command cards (usually 50). Command cards are further broken down by type: unit cards, representing characters, groups, vehicles, droids, and creatures; enhancement cards, representing locations, items, skills, weapons, and conditions; event cards, representing maneuvers, tactics, special powers, traps, and other sudden effects; and fate cards, representing twists that swing the course of a battle. Each objective card is linked to five specific command cards, which taken together is an objective set (always 6 cards). Deck construction consists of choosing a side (light or dark) and then choosing objective sets (a minimum of 10) for that side. Any objective set may be included twice in a constructed deck unless its objective card specifically indicates that it is limited to one per objective deck. Constructed decks may consist of more than one affiliation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game play consists of playing cards to your tableau, attacking your opponent's objectives, defending your own objectives, and committing cards to the Force Struggle. The light side wins the game by destroying three dark side objectives. The dark side wins when the Death Star dial reaches 12. In addition to increasing by winning Force Struggles, destroying light side objectives, and via other card effects, the dial increases by one each turn, effectively putting a timer on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Star Wars: The Card Game&lt;/em&gt; follows Fantasy Flight's Living Card Game (LCG) model, so that card distribution is fixed with no random element to purchasing cards. The core set has enough cards to build decks four slim decks (only 8 objective sets each) for the Jedi, Rebel Alliance, Sith, and Imperial Navy affiliations. &quot;Force Packs&quot; are expansions released regularly that contain 10 objective sets, usually two copies of each objective set, thereby providing new options for the various affiliations, including light side and/or dark side neutral objective sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deluxe expansion, &lt;em&gt;The Balance of the Force&lt;/em&gt;, expands the game by allowing for two different multiplayer formats. In one format, four players compete in a two-versus-two partner-based game. While in the other format, a single player plays a unique challenge deck against two or three opponents who are working together to overcome the challenge deck scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7069" LastEditorUserId="7069" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T05:32:53.033" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T05:32:53.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8476" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-27T12:38:30.723" Score="0" Body="A Living Card Game (LCG) produced by Fantasy Flight Games set in the original trilogy Star Wars Universe." OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="7069" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T05:33:09.833" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T05:33:09.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8277" CreationDate="2012-09-27T15:53:09.417" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. Idol is an item, and may only be used on your own turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth#itemcards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ at wizards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you use an item card outside of your turn (for instance, when you were attacked)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only items you could use outside your own turn are the Angel Feather, the Lucky Stone, and the omen Skull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-27T15:53:09.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8484" CreationDate="2012-09-28T10:55:30.020" Score="14" ViewCount="2710" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the relation between &lt;strong&gt;Mansions of Madness&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of them are published by &lt;em&gt;Fantasy Flight Games&lt;/em&gt; and they are based of Cthulhu Mythos. So my question is, is it possible to &lt;strong&gt;use them together&lt;/strong&gt; in someway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I get all three games, Can I share something between them?, Can I mixup the card decks? e.g: characters, miniatures, dices, adventures...etc &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T14:47:40.307" Title="What's the relation between Mansions of Madness, Elder Sign and Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|mansions-of-madness|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8483" CreationDate="2012-09-28T12:32:07.727" Score="14" ViewCount="23567" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the last game of Monopoly that I played, I bought both the Utilities and I mortgaged The Electric Company. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an opponent lands on The Water Works, how much rent would be due? Would I get 10x the dice roll for owning both Utilities, or does having one mortgaged mean that I would only get 4x the dice roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T19:28:12.110" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T22:25:01.783" Title="If I own both Utilities but mortgage one, do I get 10x or 4x the die roll in rent from the unmortgaged one?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8479" CreationDate="2012-09-28T13:13:24.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from the shared Cthulhu mythos, there are some shared characters and concepts - but mechanically, they function completely differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the only thing I think you could use across the games would be the character and monster miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="831" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T13:13:24.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8510" CreationDate="2012-09-28T13:23:21.943" Score="1" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a problem from today's New York Post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You (South) are in a stretchy major suit contract with only 22 high card points. You have four top tricks outside the trump suit, and have just won a critical finesse in your hand by finessing to your king. This bypassed an ace in East, whose early play showed an A-Q and five cards in another suit, but did not open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If East had as much as a queen more, he would have opened, so all other honors including the queen of trumps must be with west. With five (non-trump) tricks in hand, you need five trump tricks to make game. (There are no other trick taking possibilities in this problem, so focus only on this one assumption.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have AJ862. Dummy has K54. Opponents have QT973 between them, with the Q in West, for reasons discussed above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to capture the queen. One is to play for the drop. In the problem, West has Q7, so South makes his (optimistic) contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other try is a &quot;backward finesse.&quot; Lead the J of trumps from the South hand, and capture West's queen with the king in dummy (if West covers). Then lead back a low trump through East. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the cards lie, the backward finesse fails, because you are leading through East's T9 to your A8 in hand. (It would have worked if West had Q9 or QT and East had T73 or 973.) But suppose the 8 were a higher cards, say 9 or T (and East's correspondingly lower). Would the backward finesse then have offered better chances for five trump tricks than the drop?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T10:37:34.513" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T10:37:34.513" Title="Which way to capture a queen?" Tags="|bridge|puzzles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8480" CreationDate="2012-09-28T13:42:26.340" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says right on the card (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if BOTH Utilities are &lt;strong&gt;owned&lt;/strong&gt;, rent is 10x the amount shown on the dice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No rent can be collected on mortgaged properties or utilities, but rent can be collected on unmortgaged properties in the same group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who &lt;strong&gt;mortgages property retains possession&lt;/strong&gt; of it ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CmNpy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T22:25:01.783" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8479" CreationDate="2012-09-28T14:47:40.307" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mansions of Madness, Elder Sign, and Arkham Horror are all games whose themes pull from the Cthulhu Mythos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Elder Sign and Arkham Horror you play as investigators cooperating in an attmpt to prevent/drive away an Ancient One entering this world, but the mechanics of both games are very different. I'll describe the games generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror has you play investigators wandering around the town of Arkham, having encounter fighting monsters, traveling through gates to other worlds, and sealing said gates. When you seal enough gates (or some other less often-fufilled victory condition), you win. Game play is driven by skill checks. Each investigator has 6 skills and will use them (along with potential skill boosting items) to make skill checks to succeed at various tasks (Understand lore, escape a house before it collapses, kill a monster, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, Elder sign has you playing these very same investigators trying to prevent the ancient horror from entering the world, but there's no board to speak of. Instead, your turn consists of picking one of the encounter cards on the board, gathering a pool of specialized dice, and rolling them, trying to match the necessary results displayed on the cards. Winning gets you various rewards. You win when you get enough 'Elder Sign' tokens, which could be direct rewards from completing a mission or by cashing in some of the trophies you've earned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mansions of Madness pits a team of investigators against a 'Keeper', who is trying to fufill some hidden agenda of his. The investigators explore a pseudo-randomly generated building trying to discover, and then prevent, the Keeper's goal. The Keeper meanwhile tries to nudge the investigators in the right direction so he can fufill his secret goal easier. The 'board' in this game consists of modular parts that get rearranged depending on the particular scenario being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So mechanically and piece-wise, the games are very different. The only pieces you can use in any of the other games are the markers for the investigators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror, the investigators have standing cardboard-y pieces with their images on them. In Elder Sign, the investigators have smaller cardboard-y pieces with their images on them. In Mansions of Madness, the investigators have moulded plastic figures in their likeness. Any of these markers could be used in any of the games equally as effectivelly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the monster figures from Mansions of Madness can be used in Arkham Horror. Arkham Horror's monster tokens are squard cardboard pieces with various monster fighting statistics on them. In Mansions of Madness you have the same sized tokens, but the printed stats are totally different, making them non-interchangable. But Mansions of Madness has you slot these tokens into larger monster figures (the tokens are still readable if you look under the base). So you can use these figures for your Arkham Horror play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the figures that come with Mansions of Madness are all unpainted. Fantasy Flight sells painted versions of all of these figures, and more, on their website. So if you like the idea of having investigator minis, but don't want Mansions of Madess, you can still get whichever figures you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T14:47:40.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8486" CreationDate="2012-09-28T17:10:21.120" Score="25" ViewCount="90210" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monopoly, there are two utilities. They cost 150, and rent is 4x the dice roll if one utility is owned, or 10x the dice value if both are owned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yqQ8Y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;2 cards: Electric Company and Water Works (descriptions summarized above)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the utilities something I want to purchase if possible? Or are they junk? How valuable are they compared to the other properties on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T04:33:32.373" LastActivityDate="2018-12-30T13:41:38.227" Title="Are the utilities worth buying?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2012-09-28T18:23:26.287" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The utilities are decent &quot;fire and forget&quot; properties, which pay for themselves quickly.  Think of them as equivalent to owning two railroads, but paying a bit better because you can't improve them further.  They don't have the same explosive-growth potential of railroads or properties, but they're cheaper.  You're not going to bankrupt anyone with them, but they can be decent money-makers over the course of the game.  They're better in the early game for fast and easy income, but later on they're more valuable simply as squares you can land safely on; everyone has become too rich to care much about such small rents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few comparisions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of Utilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost $150, pays $28 (average roll of 7), pays for itself after ~6 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost $300, pays $70 (average roll of 7), pays for itself after ~5 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of Railroads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost $200, pays $25, pays for itself after 8 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost $400, pays $50, pays for itself after 8 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost $600, pays $100, pays for itself after 6 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cost $800, pays $200, pays for itself after 4 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Owning the light blue properties as a monopoly (much harder to get than just a utility or two!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0 houses: Cost $320, pays ~13, pays for itself after ~24 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 house: Cost $470, pays ~$33, pays for itself after ~15 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 houses: Cost $620, pays ~$93, pays for itself after ~7 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 houses: Cost $770, pays ~$280, pays for itself after ~4 rents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Someone has done a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; more math than I have: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tkcs-collins.com/truman/monopoly/monopoly.shtml&quot;&gt;http://www.tkcs-collins.com/truman/monopoly/monopoly.shtml&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-09-28T18:49:33.330" LastActivityDate="2012-09-28T18:49:33.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-09-28T23:06:05.307" Score="20" ViewCount="3471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like probability questions, and it has been a while since &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8066/how-likely-are-you-to-lose-because-fools-landing-sinks-into-the-abyss&quot;&gt;tttpp's excellent analysis&lt;/a&gt; of losing in the first turn of Forbidden Island. I figured it might be interesting to calculate how likely you are to lose on the first turn in &lt;strong&gt;Pandemic&lt;/strong&gt;. This was inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7027/in-pandemic-do-certain-setup-and-card-order-combinations-make-it-impossible-to&quot;&gt;JoeGolton's question&lt;/a&gt; about impossible setups, and tttppp's answer referencing a BBG session report.  This question is only interested in figuring the odds of losing the game during the first players turn. To figure out the odds of losing, you will need to the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/Pandemic_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calculate how likely you are to lose by running out of 24 cubes of a single color.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calculate how likely you are to lose by &lt;strong&gt;Outbreaking&lt;/strong&gt; 8 times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calculate how likely you are to draw an Epidemic cards  on the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calculate the odds of being able to remove 0 or more cubes from possible chain outbreak cities.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Calculate the odds of no player receiving a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/301898/pandemic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Special Event&lt;/a&gt; (linked all 5) card that will prevent a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine the effect of each difficulty level (4-6 Epidemic cards in evenly divided piles), and for 2-4 Players on the result.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The First Player character is randomly determined.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other players out of the 5 roles are randomly determined.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assume players do not know which Infection cards will be drawn (unless a Special Action card allows it)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard Rules and Characters (none from &lt;strong&gt;On the Brink&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T13:50:19.127" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T13:50:19.127" Title="What are the chances of losing Pandemic on the first turn?" Tags="|pandemic|statistics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8442" CreationDate="2012-09-29T05:09:27.090" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A definitive answer would require someone who has a collection of all the printing of UNO since the beginning in 1971 to present day. The only one likely to have such an museum quality collection is the estate of the inventor of the game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Merle_Robbins&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Merle Robbins&lt;/a&gt;, an Ohio barber. He spent $8,000 to have 5,000 copies made. He sold the rights to the game to International Games Inc., which was bought by Mattel in 1992, who now owns the rights to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my best attempt at answering. I am going to assume that the 1983 International Games, Inc. edition is the same as original 1971 printing. The differences in the many spin off versions of UNO ([30th Anniversary Edition], &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/M1006.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Batman UNO&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/K6505-0920.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hanna Montana UNO&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/N5836-0920.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spongebob UNO&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/b5033-3L.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dora UNO&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/N5831-0920.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mickey Mouse Clubhouse UNO&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/T8230%20Uno%20Cars2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cars 2 UNO&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/T8231-0920.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harry Potter UNO&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) are thankfully not included. I will mention that in general, the spin-offs have nearly identical rules, but instead of including blank cards like the most recent printings, these blank cards are replaced with special cards that have some unique effect. I would guess that the reason for the +4 blank cards from the original printing is related to card manufactures changing from 54 cards=9x6, to 56 cards=8x7 sheets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complete rules for the 1983 version are listed, with only differences for other versions listed. The 4 previous versions (1971-1981) are assumed to exist, because they are listed as additional copyright dates within the 1983 rule book. There are gigantic gaps in the editions, because I have been unable to find scans of the intervening years. To summarize the differences though, most versions have nearly identical rules. The earliest version only uses the (0-9) face cards for &lt;strong&gt;First Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; selection, requires a challenged player to only reveal the color of the cards in their hand, if &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot; in a challenge they keep their &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt; card, and specifies a penalty for suggesting plays to your opponents. The &lt;strong&gt;2001&lt;/strong&gt; editions (including 30th Anniversary) have a printing error in my mind, because no other versions I have seen make you &lt;strong&gt;Draw 4&lt;/strong&gt; cards when failing to call &amp;quot;UNO.&amp;quot; I don't think the game rules have changed much in 40 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1971 First Edition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1973&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1979&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1981&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamearchives.org/rules/InternationalGames_Uno_qu.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1983 International Games, Inc.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Components&lt;/strong&gt; - 108 cards, 4x Wild, 4x Wild Draw4, 4 colors each;19x (0-9);2x Draw2;2x Skip;2x Reverse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Object&lt;/strong&gt; - Score 500 points by emptying your hand before your opponents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; - Non-number cards are not used. Players who draw a non-number replace it in the deck and draw another. (This differs from all subsequent versions I have found. In newer editions, non-number cards are not replaced in the deck allowing that player to redraw a card. There are other differences from later editions that will be noted, but this difference will only be noted here). Shuffle and deal 7 cards to each player, place the top card in the discard, and the remaining cards become the drawpile. The person to the left of the deal starts. With the exception of the &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt; (replace in deck redraw) and the &lt;strong&gt;Wild&lt;/strong&gt; (starting player decides color), Special Word cards affect the stating player in the normal manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary of Play&lt;/strong&gt; - Play a matching number, color, word, or wild to the top card of the discard. If a player cannot play, they must draw a card (which can be played immediately if it matches). Play passes to the next player. If the drawpile is depleted, resuffle all cards except the top card of the discard to form a new drawpile, and continue play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reneging&lt;/strong&gt; - You may choose to draw a card, even if you have a playable card in hand. If you do so though, only the drawn card can be played. You can play a drawn &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt; card, but might be subject to getting &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot; if you have a playable color card in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Special Word Cards&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Wild&lt;/strong&gt; can always be played. Choose a new color. &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt; can only be played if you do not have a matching color (matching number/word is ok) without being subject to &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot; rules. Choose a color, the next player draws 4, play continues with the player after the next. &lt;strong&gt;Draw2&lt;/strong&gt; the next player draws 2 cards, play continues with the player after them. &lt;strong&gt;Skip&lt;/strong&gt; the next player is skipped, play continues with the player after them. &lt;strong&gt;Reverse&lt;/strong&gt; the direction of play is reversed until the end of the hand, or the next Reverse card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Going Out&lt;/strong&gt; - As a player plays his next to last card, they must say &amp;quot;UNO&amp;quot; before the card hits the discard. If they fail to do so before the next player has draws/plays a card and are &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot;, they immediately draw 2 cards. After the next player plays/draws, they are safe. When a player plays their last card, the hand is over. Points are scored, all cards are collected, the deck is shuffled, and a new hand begins with the player to the left of the dealer. If the last card played is a Draw2 or Wild Draw4, those cards are added to the next players hand before points are scored for the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring&lt;/strong&gt; - When a player goes out, all other players card values are added that players total. First player to 500 points wins. &lt;strong&gt;Wild&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt;: 50 pts, &lt;strong&gt;Draw2&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Skip&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Reverse&lt;/strong&gt;: 20 pts, All number cards (0-9): &lt;strong&gt;Face Value&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Variation&lt;/strong&gt;: Running totals for each player can be kept instead. When one player's total reaches 500 (or some other value), the game is over and the player with the &lt;strong&gt;least&lt;/strong&gt; points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Penalties&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Fail to call UNO on next to last card&lt;/strong&gt; draw 2 cards, &lt;strong&gt;Make a suggestion to another player on what card to play&lt;/strong&gt; draw 4 cards, &lt;strong&gt;Play a Wild Draw4 card with/without another legal color&lt;/strong&gt; draw 4 cards. The next player is the only one who can challenge. If they do, you must reveal the color of the cards in your hand to verify if the play was legal. If it was, the challenger draws an additional 2 cards (6 total), if instead you are &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot;, you draw 4 cards. (&lt;strong&gt;Challenge&lt;/strong&gt; In this version, &lt;strong&gt;only the color&lt;/strong&gt; of the cards in your hand need to be revealed. Subsequent versions do not clarify what &amp;quot;reveal your hand&amp;quot; means. Another peculiarity of note here, is that in this version the &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt; card is returned to the &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot; player's hand, and the a correct color card is played. All subsequent versions leave the &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw4&lt;/strong&gt; in the discard pile. This does have an unusual effect on the gameplay. With this rule, it is not possible to sacrifice getting &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot;, with the only goal of changing the current color.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Houserules you might have played with. &lt;strong&gt;Piling On/Progressive UNO&lt;/strong&gt; - It allows the normal recipient of a &lt;strong&gt;Special Word&lt;/strong&gt; card to pile on the result to the next player. (i.e. If someone plays a &lt;strong&gt;Draw2&lt;/strong&gt; card on you, you can play a &lt;strong&gt;Draw2&lt;/strong&gt; card, making the next player draw a total of 4 cards.). &lt;strong&gt;Draw until you have a playable card&lt;/strong&gt; - Instead of drawing a single card when you cannot make a legal play, you continue to draw until you have a playable card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1984-1992 International Games, Inc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1992-2001 Mattel, Inc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/42001pr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2001&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;First Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; is highest point value card. &lt;strong&gt;Going Out&lt;/strong&gt; failing to call &amp;quot;UNO&amp;quot; and getting &amp;quot;caught&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;draws 4 cards&lt;/strong&gt;, no penalty for opponent play suggestions. &lt;strong&gt;4x Blank Cards&lt;/strong&gt; for adding special rules, or just replacement cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2002&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://unotips.org/pdf/official_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2003&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;First Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; highest number goes first (word cards are 0). &lt;strong&gt;Penalties&lt;/strong&gt; New penalty for making incorrect plays, the offending player takes the card back and draws 2 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2004-2006&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/M2062-0920.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007 Deluxe&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;First Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; highest number goes first (word cards are 0). &lt;strong&gt;Penalties&lt;/strong&gt; no penalty for opponent play suggestions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/UNO%20Basic%20IS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;First Dealer&lt;/strong&gt; highest number goes first (word cards are 0). &lt;strong&gt;Penalties&lt;/strong&gt; no penalty for opponent play suggestions. First mention of &lt;strong&gt;Houserule&lt;/strong&gt; Progressive UNO.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2009-present&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T05:09:27.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8490" CreationDate="2012-09-29T09:38:43.287" Score="8" ViewCount="2790" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much table space do I need to play with all the Arkham Horror expansions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main game Arkham Horror and the expansions Dunwich Horror, Kingsport Horror, Innsmouth Horror and Miskatonic Horror, all have game boards with locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all of the boards the same size as the original board? Also, several expansions contain new decks that should be placed in their own stacks. How does that affect the required space and layout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play with all the expansions at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T16:47:48.940" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T16:47:48.940" Title="How much space do I need to play with all the Arkham Horror expansions?" Tags="|arkham-horror|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8489" CreationDate="2012-09-29T11:52:11.157" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main board is 2'x3' and each expansion board is 2'x1' (1/3 the size of the main board), which lends itself to two different configurations if you want to use all the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1365566/arkham-horror&quot;&gt;2'x6'&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/492127/arkham-horror&quot;&gt;3'x4'&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as the second picture demonstrates, you can make clever use of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.staples.com/office/supplies/p1_Staples-8-Pocket-Business-Card-Holder_104841_Business_Supplies_10051_SEARCH&quot;&gt;business card holders&lt;/a&gt; to hold the cards using less space. Make sure too keep in mind that you'll also need to have enough space for each of the investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I've played with all the expansions at home I use two folding tables. I'll use a 6' folding table for the boards (It's about 2.5' wide, so can semi-comfortably fit investigators with items around one side if you push the board to the edge), and then I employ the use of a 4' folding table off to the side for all of the decks. This could easily be an endtable or whatever, I just happen to have a second, smaller folding table. The smaller table allows space for more investigators as well though. Which you'll need if you play with 10 investigators! (Since each expansion board after the first 'reduces' your effective investigator count, you can use 10 investigators without any of the limits breaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, completely possible to  use all the expansions at the same time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T11:52:11.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8492" CreationDate="2012-09-29T20:24:57.680" Score="7" ViewCount="4044" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule text of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypersonic%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Hypersonic Dragon&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may cast sorcery spells as though they had flash. (You may cast them any time you could cast an instant.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I cast scavenge as an instant now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exile this card from your graveyard: Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to this card's power on target creature. Scavenge only as a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T08:05:32.303" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T08:05:32.303" Title="Hypersonic dragon =&gt; instant scavenge?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8491" CreationDate="2012-09-29T21:31:33.877" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5Bscavenge%5D%20%5Bexile%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scavenge&lt;/a&gt; is an ability, not a spell&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official MTG rules for the ability do not appear to be up on wizards site, but from the cards reminder text, you can clearly see that the ability is an activated ability (the colon ':'), that functions only while the card is in your graveyard, with specific activation instructions that only allow activation whenever you could cast a Sorcery (on your turn, during a main phase, when the stack is empty).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3b &lt;strong&gt;Activated abilities&lt;/strong&gt; have a cost and an effect. They &lt;strong&gt;are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]&lt;/strong&gt;” A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority. Doing so puts it on the stack, where it remains until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 602, “Activating Activated Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Mana cost], Exile this card from your graveyard:Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to this card's power on target creature. Scavenge only as a sorcery.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.5d Activated abilities that read “Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery” mean the player must follow the timing rules for casting a sorcery spell,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activating abilities is not the same thing as casting spells, so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypersonic%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Hypersonic Dragon&lt;/a&gt; will have no effect on your ability to Scavenge only on your own turn, while the stack is empty. What Hypersonic Dragon will let you do, is to cast cards with the Card Type - &lt;strong&gt;Sorcery&lt;/strong&gt; whenever you have priority, even on other players turn, when you normally could not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.1. The type line is printed directly below the illustration. It contains the card’s card type(s). It also contains the card’s subtype(s) and supertype(s), if applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;307.1. A player who has priority may cast a sorcery card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Casting a sorcery as a spell uses the stack. (See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-09-29T23:49:16.803" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T23:49:16.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8491" CreationDate="2012-09-29T22:29:25.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Comp Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.5d Activated abilities that read &amp;quot;Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery&amp;quot; mean the player must follow the timing rules for casting a sorcery spell, though the ability isn't actually a sorcery. The player doesn't actually need to have a sorcery card that he or she could cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not explicitly stated, &amp;quot;Scavange only as a sorcery&amp;quot; is shorthand for &amp;quot;Activate ~scavange only at any time you could cast a sorcery&amp;quot;. We can infer this translation by comparing the card text and oracle text of the Equip keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we review the keyword &amp;quot;Equip&amp;quot; we see the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. &amp;quot;Equip [cost]&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another similarly worded ability, with the explicit wording &amp;quot;Activate this ability&amp;quot;, not &amp;quot;Equip only as a sorcery&amp;quot;. However, many cards, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Adventuring%20Gear&quot;&gt;Adventuring Gear&lt;/a&gt; state explicitly on the card &amp;quot;Equip only as a sorcery&amp;quot;. So we can safely infer that &amp;quot;~ only as a sorcery&amp;quot; is shorthand for &amp;quot;Activate ~ only at any time you could cast a sorcery&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-09-29T22:29:25.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8500" CreationDate="2012-09-30T09:31:52.863" Score="2" ViewCount="1961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to protect my Arkham Horror game cards with sleeves, but I have had bad experiences with sleeves which are too slippery. With tall decks, the sleeves produce decks that are not stable enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How slippery are the Fantasy Flight Sleeves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="5542" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T14:22:20.507" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T14:22:20.507" Title="How slippery are the Fantasy Flight Sleeves?" Tags="|game-accessories|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8495" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-09-30T09:41:18.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Game company that creates and publishes role-playing, board, and card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This company distributed &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'arkham-horror'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkham-horror&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dust-warfare&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dust-warfare'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dust-warfare&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/elder-sign&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'elder-sign'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;elder-sign&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mansions-of-madness&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'mansions-of-madness'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mansions-of-madness&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/talisman&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'talisman'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;talisman&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/twilight-imperium-3rd-edn&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'twilight-imperium-3rd-edn'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;twilight-imperium-3rd-edn&lt;/a&gt;.. among other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-30T13:09:08.523" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T13:09:08.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8496" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-09-30T09:41:18.653" Score="0" Body="Game company that creates and publishes role-playing, board, and card games." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-09-30T13:08:40.287" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T13:08:40.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8505" CreationDate="2012-09-30T13:29:22.060" Score="6" ViewCount="2459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard varying opinions on the 'best' sizes for FW squads, mostly at 6 or 12 warriors to a unit. Pros and cons of that I've heard for each are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A unit of 6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Smaller footprint - easier to hide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large amounts of drawn fire is wasted on a smaller unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A unit of 12&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Benefits from fewer marker lights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;May survive more gunfire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if that covers all of the advantages/disadvantages. How do different sized units of FW play out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;edit:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anything changed in 7th edition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T15:30:16.033" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T04:42:51.963" Title="How well do differently-sized units of Fire Warriors work?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2012-09-30T14:05:23.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancedtautactica.com/academy/firewarriors.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; provides an in depth overview of all the strengths and disadvantages of the Fire Warrior units. It includes a summary of the most common squad sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, there are 3 common sizes for units of Firewarriors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;12 Models:&lt;/strong&gt; A full Firewarrior squad maximizes offensive potential. Whether deployed on foot or in a Devilfish, if you're looking for maximum shots, 12 Firewarriors is the way to go. A full squad of 12 is also best for taking advantage of Markerlight hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10 Models:&lt;/strong&gt; A squad of 10 is the most efficient for Morale purposes without sacrificing any substantial shooting power. This squad requires the same number of casualties to force a Morale check as the 12-strong squad (3), but costs 20 points less. The squad of 10 is good for foot-mobile teams that are expecting to take casualties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6 Models:&lt;/strong&gt; This minimum sized squad is good for those looking to conserve points either because they're looking to cheaply fill the 1+ Firewarrior requirement in order to spend their points elsewhere, or because they're bringing the Firewarriors solely for their Devilfish option in which case they want as little overhead as possible tied up with the troops inside. 6 Firewarriors can be used to squeeze a few Markerlights into your list without having to bring a full-blown Pathfinder Squad and are also a cheap deployment step. In general, the minimum sized squad makes sense if your primary motivation is anything other than additional S5 shooting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T14:05:23.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8494" CreationDate="2012-09-30T14:15:16.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flight sleeves are quite thick, durable and good quality. They're quite comparable to Ultra Pro sleeves for Magic: The Gathering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight out of the packet, they are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; slippery when you first sleeve your decks. Over time, or with some extended shuffling, they will become much less slippery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decks in Arkham aren't that tall, so I haven't found the slipperiness to be a problem in practice. Personally, I quite like sleeving in general as it makes the decks easier to shuffle. But if you really don't like slippery decks, and don't have the patience to break them in, then you might want to skip the sleeving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few other points to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buying sleeves for all your cards is fairly expensive, especially if you have lots of expansions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storage in the Arkham boxes is already quite tight. Sleeving the cards makes the decks significantly thicker, so that may be an issue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider how much wear the decks receive in practice. If cards aren't shuffled often or aren't being held in-hand for extended periods of time, then sleeving may not be worthwhile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do decide to get them, you'll need the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/productdetails.cfm?sku=FFS01&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mini American&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (colour-coded yellow) for the small decks (items, etc.), and &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/productdetails.cfm?sku=FFS03&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Standard American&lt;/a&gt;&quot; (colour-coded green) for the full size decks (e.g. Mythos cards). FFG's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=86&amp;amp;esem=4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sleeving guide&lt;/a&gt; will also tell you how many of each pack you'll need, per Arkham expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-09-30T15:58:30.243" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T15:58:30.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2012-09-30T17:16:54.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The issue here is that you are finessing for two cards, the A and the J. Therefore you lead low from hand towards dummy, which has two high cards, the Q and T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If West covers, you duck, otherwise play the Q. East presumably wins with the ace. When you regain the lead (in dummy), lead low from dummy toward your King, finessing for the Jack or 9 in East. If East plays either of those cards, you cover, otherwise finesse the 8, unless E shows out, in which case you play the K (and finesse to the T in dummy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If West doesn't win your 8, your king will win the next trick. If West does win, your K will drop the last opposing card, and your low card will win a second trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T17:16:54.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8491" CreationDate="2012-09-30T19:44:36.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When they say &amp;quot;any time he or she could cast a sorcery&amp;quot;, it actually means &amp;quot;any time he or she could &lt;em&gt;normally&lt;/em&gt; cast a sorcery&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;307.5. If a spell, ability, or effect states that a player can do something only “any time he or she could cast a sorcery,” it means only that the player must have priority, it must be during the main phase of his or her turn, and the stack must be empty. The player doesn’t need to have a sorcery he or she could actually cast. Effects that would prevent that player from casting a spell or casting a sorcery don’t affect the player’s capability to perform that action (unless the action is actually casting a spell or casting a sorcery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypersonic%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Hypersonic Dragon&lt;/a&gt;'s ability does not change that, so it does not affect the Scavenge ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-09-30T19:44:36.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8494" CreationDate="2012-10-01T02:09:20.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are longer–lasting than UltraPro sleeves, but I find they retain a lot of air (even when compressed) that results in piles of cards being liable to slide out— especially smaller game cards like those for most board games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overtime, this effect will reduce, and with proper shuffling they will last you for a while, but just like any other sleeve, they will eventually begin to come apart. Unless you are playing a competitive game that requires/encourages sleeved cards or want to sleeve a filler game that you'd probably be playing on a table full of drinks and snacks, I would not bother, especially with games made with cards more in the style of playing cards, like Race for the Galaxy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheap game cards are better suited for sleeving than nice ones; if I had it to do over again, I &lt;i&gt;might&lt;/i&gt; have sleeved Glory to Rome. But probably not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T02:09:20.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8138" CreationDate="2012-10-01T06:48:55.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My word here is by no means final—there is no clear answer to your question that I can find—but I have a good argument for resolving your case based on the existing rules, FAQ, and card text. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no rule that states that &lt;code&gt;Emergency Repairs&lt;/code&gt; cannot be played in an action cycle began by a player announcing a card that turns out to be a &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The following is worth mentioning: &lt;code&gt;Sabotage&lt;/code&gt;—another action with ‘immediately’ in the &lt;strong&gt;Play&lt;/strong&gt; text is explicitly said to not be announced, which would mean there is no cycle of actions played by other players, as that text only takes effect after an action is announced. It would seem ideal that other immediate Action Cards be given a similar non–announced status, but no one asked me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of ‘immediately’ in the &lt;strong&gt;Play&lt;/strong&gt; text of &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt; implies that it happens &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; any other actions could possibly be announced— except for others with the same same trigger in its &lt;strong&gt;Play&lt;/strong&gt; block. The closest thing a player being attacked has to &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt; is &lt;code&gt;Recheck&lt;/code&gt;, which instead reacts ‘immediately’ to the die roll— before the damage has been inflicted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there is a reason for the lack of contradictory immediate actions that are triggered by the same state. The only exception is the pre–combat phase, and the FAQ has a solution for resolving those actions. (Rulebook effects are treated here as actions, as well— which demonstrates that immediate effects on Action Cards are treated with the same priority as immediate rulebook effects are.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So… if we got to the situation where &lt;code&gt;Emergency Repairs&lt;/code&gt; is played in an action cycle began with the announcing of an Action Card that turned out to be a &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt;, it would still resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Emergency Repairs&lt;/code&gt; does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; target a ship or fleet, but rather the system that it resides in (the targeting text is simply &lt;code&gt;“Choose a system”&lt;/code&gt;). Other ships (if any) in the system, for example, would still be repaired. You could technically play it on a system you have no ships on, as it does not require you to have any ships in said system. (It has not received an erratum which requires presence like &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt; has.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be possible to play &lt;code&gt;Emergency Repairs&lt;/code&gt; in an action cycle started by a &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt;, and then use &lt;code&gt;Sabotage&lt;/code&gt; on the &lt;code&gt;Direct Hit!&lt;/code&gt;, though…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3338" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T06:48:55.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2012-10-01T12:57:16.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Six edition has had a big impact on fire warrior squads.  While some of the points in the article user1873 links to in his answer are still valid there are other factors that should be considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short answer is you probably want to go either min or max on squad size.  Other numbers are acceptable but situational(like if you got some extra points and no better option to spend them on; going from 6 to 8 guys in a squad is OK to do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some changes in 6th edition that will have an effect on whether to go min or max.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Transports&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transports for units in the new edition have lost some usefulness. In 5th, taking a min squad to get a transport was often a no-brainer. Even a transport with as limited offensive punch like a Devilfish was worth it due to the overall strength of vehicles in the last edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now transports are not scoring or denial units.  Even squads inside can't score or deny.  That means to take an objective, you will need to disembark.  That's a difficult thing to do effectively when you have a very fragile 6 man unit inside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the game is lighter on scoring units, so you can't treat them as transport upgrades anymore.  While the Devilish is one of the more survivable transports in the game right now, a Tau army needs to prioritize on high firepower and scoring units first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rapid Fire Weapons&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big change to rapid fire weapons is that they can fire up to their full range even when moving.  This gives Firewarriors a nice 36&quot; reach on a given turn.  With this kind of range, Firewarriors don't have to rely on transport mobility to effectively engage targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wound allocation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wound allocation is now done against closest models.  This means you can use drones or attached battlesuit commanders(preferably with Iridium Armor and a pair of shield drones)  to soak incoming fire.  This is a big survivability boost, making large squads hard to kill and great at camping objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Morale&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Units can now almost always regroup.  This makes playing the morale numbers game much less important.   The new Cadre Fireblade and updated Ethereals also help keep your units around thanks to higher leadership and re-rolls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tau troops aren't great, but fortunately now you can bring someone else's much better troop options along to the party.  You'll get much better ROI for your points with a maxed out Marine tactical squad versus a maxed out Firewarrior squad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Updated for the new Codex&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new codex does increase the play-ability of Fire Warriors, but they are still defensively a weak unit. With the slight points decrease and the extra shots you can get from Ethereals and Fireblades, there's more reason to max the squad size now than to minimize it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still think it is better to leverage ally troops to score and deny objectives.  That is if your ally's troops are better.  (Though you should pick an ally option with better troops IMHO.  Something like Space Marines, Grey Knights, Okrs, or Necrons.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest going max on the squads.  Upgrading to the shas-ui is no longer necessary since you can stick an Ethereal of Fireblade to the unit and get a bigger efficiency boost. I could see the Devilfish having use in some list, but overall you should probably stick to foot squads.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T19:00:46.497" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T19:00:46.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-10-01T14:54:44.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever someone wants to make a trade, tell them you'll give them what they're looking for in exchange for any two cards. I know a guy who has come from behind with this strategy so many times it's ridiculous. Everyone thinks they're just handing you their trash, but if you get enough of it it can still work out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3337" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T14:54:44.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8508" CreationDate="2012-10-01T15:01:31.097" Score="4" ViewCount="2221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to insert and glue 1/16&quot; diameter rare earth magnets into holes I create in my plastic models. The purpose of the magnets is to make it easy to swap weapons/options on my Warhammer 40K models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular twist drill bits leave a wide concave hole in the plastic, making it difficult to glue a magnet flush to the bottom of the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forstner drill bits create a flat bottomed hole (with a small concave hole in the center), but only down to 1/4&quot; diameter holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brad point drill bits create a flat bottomed hole (with a small concave hole hole in the center and a depressed ring around the hole) down to 1/16&quot;, but it seems brad point bits below 1/8&quot; are not a &quot;true&quot; (?) brad point bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have two cascaded questions:&#xA;1) does a 1/16&quot; non-true brad point drill bit provide a good-enough flat bottomed hole for 1/16&quot; diameter rare earth magnets?&#xA;2) if not, what is a workable method to create 1/16&quot; diameter flat bottomed holes in plastic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update 2 Oct 2012&lt;/strong&gt;: The root problem I am trying to solve is magnets being pulled out of their holes after gluing. I originally thought I had a tool problem (concave hole causing lack of contact surface area between magnet/glue), but CaulynDarr and Affe's comments point to a likely process problem. Experimentation and tenacity on my part will solve that. Thank you for your comments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2177" LastEditorUserId="2177" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T14:28:57.240" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T14:28:57.240" Title="Creating small flat bottom holes in plastic models for magnets" Tags="|warhammer-40k|modelling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8507" CreationDate="2012-10-01T15:37:58.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer the specific question on drill bit types.  I've don plenty of magnatizing, but haven't analyzed the tools I've used in that great of depth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used Dremel's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=628-01&quot;&gt;precision drill bit&lt;/a&gt; set in my 7.2 Volt rotary tool.  I've never had too big a problem with the convex bottom of the hole they create.  If you match the drill bit size close enough to the magnet diameter, the sides of the hole should provide enough surface area to hold the magnet in place with a little super glue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little super glue, epoxy glue, or an epoxy resin like Green Stuff or Milliput could be used to fill in the hole to an even surface. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T15:37:58.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5441" CreationDate="2012-10-01T15:47:32.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Literally just played a game in which one of the stacks (the one containing 4 cards) was lead by the 9 of diamonds, and the cards inside of it were the King of Spades, the 5 of diamonds, the 10 of spades, and the 10 of clubs (I know this because I had the entire field solved except for this stack and used process of elimination). As far as I can see this makes the game impossible. I have a 9 of diamonds in which can never be moved, as the two 10s that it's eligible to rest upon are trapped underneath it in the stack face down. Attempting to get rid of the 9 by moving it to the diamond stack would also be fruitless, as the 5 of diamonds is stuck underneath it too. Unless someone can tell me some way that this could be solved, I'm pretty darned certain that if a card that is leading a stack is covering a stack that contains the two cards it is capable of resting on, and a lower number of it's own suit, then the game is made impossible right from the get-go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3341" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T15:47:32.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8482" CreationDate="2012-10-01T18:48:14.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;It would have worked if West had Q9 or QT and East had T73 or 973.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that's the case; if they lie like that, East or West will win the T or 9, depending on whether you run the 8 or not. Laying out all the possibilities, I can see only one holding where the finesse succeeds against the correct defence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Q      T973    Fails&#xA;QT     973     Fails&#xA;Q9     T73     Fails&#xA;Q7     T93     Fails&#xA;Q3     T97     Fails&#xA;QT9    73      Fails&#xA;QT7    93      Fails&#xA;QT3    97      Fails&#xA;Q97    T3      Fails&#xA;Q93    T7      Fails&#xA;Q73    T9      Succeeds&#xA;Qxxx   x       Fails&#xA;Qxxxxx void    Fails&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turn the 8 into the T, and we have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Q      9873    Fails&#xA;Q9     873     Succeeds&#xA;Q8     973     Succeeds&#xA;Q7     983     Succeeds&#xA;Q3     987     Succeeds&#xA;Q98    73      Succeeds&#xA;Q97    83      Succeeds&#xA;Q93    87      Succeeds&#xA;Q87    93      Succeeds&#xA;Q83    97      Succeeds&#xA;Q73    98      Succeeds&#xA;Qxxx   x       Fails&#xA;Qxxxxx void    Fails&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What a difference those two pips make!&#xA;Give declarer the 9 instead of the 8...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Q      T873    Fails&#xA;QT     873     Succeeds&#xA;Q8     T73     Succeeds&#xA;Q7     T83     Succeeds&#xA;Q3     T87     Succeeds&#xA;QT8    73      Fails&#xA;QT7    93      Fails&#xA;QT3    87      Fails&#xA;Q87    T3      Succeeds&#xA;Q83    T7      Succeeds&#xA;Q73    T8      Succeeds&#xA;Qxxx   x       Fails&#xA;Qxxxxx void    Fails&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;although some of those successes rely on a clairvoyant knowledge of the distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my conclusion is, unless you have the ten, try to drop the queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T18:48:14.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6186" CreationDate="2012-10-01T23:21:12.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different strategies involved for 40 card decks versus 60 card decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 60 card deck is constructed. This means you'll have access to a great number of dual lands and land fetches. A 40 card deck is limited. You will probably have only basic lands to work with, with may be one or two mana fixers you managed to pick up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fairly easy to make the argument that the more cards in a color you have, the more you have to weigh into that color for your land base. That's very simple logic. In fact, it's almost too simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first hole in that logic is that you'll have many more spells of one color in your deck than another. This really shouldn't be the case. If it was a sealed event, chances are your cards are fairly evenly balanced. You'll have 15-20 cards in each color, and more than likely you will play the two colors that both have 11 playables. You're unlikely to have a situation of 18 playables in one color and 5 in another color. If you had, let's just say, 18 red and 5 green, is it reasonable to think you had 5 or less playable cards in white, blue and black? No, it's not. Even if you did have 18 playable cards in red, you're probably still better off only playing the best 11 or 12 of those playables, and playing 9 or 10 white or black or blue or whatever color had the second most playables. If you were to bucket your cards into colors, and then sort each bucket by how playable the card is (not a scientific route, I recognize, but one that many players do) you will probably find that #'s 6-11 in one color are much better than 12-18th place in the main color. So your cards will be balanced anyway if you've built a good deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second hole in that logic is that it doesn't take into account what this humble magic player finds to be the most important aspect of having multiple colored decks: color aligned cards. A color aligned card is one that has multiple colored mana symbols. Most cards in magic are in the form of &lt;code&gt;{#}{x}&lt;/code&gt; where # is a number and x is a color. In other words, they're like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; which is &lt;code&gt;1G&lt;/code&gt; and not like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%27s%20Companion&quot;&gt;Garruk&amp;#39;s Companion&lt;/a&gt; which is &lt;code&gt;GG&lt;/code&gt;. Garruk's Companion is color aligned to green. For it to be effective, you need to have your first two lands be forest. Playing mono green, that's easy. Playing any non-mono-green deck, that's hard. It gets even worse for cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leatherback%20Baloth&quot;&gt;Leatherback Baloth&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phryexian%20Obliterator&quot;&gt;Phryexian Obliterator&lt;/a&gt; which are very powerful, but are very color aligned. Because most cards only require 1 mana in any particular color, you only need to worry about getting 1 of those lands casting the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the recent pre-release, I had two copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Martial%20Law&quot;&gt;Martial Law&lt;/a&gt;. Because I had a significant amount of control spells (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dispel&quot;&gt;Dispel&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Syncopate&quot;&gt;Syncopate&lt;/a&gt; and friends) I felt the need to be able to cast multiple blue spells in a turn. For this reason, I had 9 islands, 6 plains, and 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Azorius Guildgate&lt;/a&gt;. As it turned out, only once did I have the need to cast multiple counters, and at the same time, twice I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Martial%20Law&quot;&gt;Martial Law&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunspire%20Griffin&quot;&gt;Sunspire Griffin&lt;/a&gt; in my hand but couldn't play them due to having only 1 source of white mana. If I could play it over again, I'd've gone 6 Islands, 9 plains to compliment my 3 gates. I had four cards in my deck that were turn 3 or turn 4 color aligned white, with no spells color aligned to blue (except for the &lt;code&gt;2WWUU&lt;/code&gt; Sphinx, but since she's color aligned to both I didn't see it as a big issue. The likelihood of having 6 mana with only 1 source of either color was highly unlikely).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's what I do in limited:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have only one color that allows for color aligned cards. Exceptions to this are if I have an incredible amount of land fixing, or if there is a huge benefit to be gained (for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trostani%2C%20Selesnya%27s%20Voice&quot;&gt;Trostani, Selesnya&amp;#39;s Voice&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jarad%2C%20Golgari%20Lich%20Lord&quot;&gt;Jarad, Golgari Lich Lord&lt;/a&gt;. I would also consider making exceptions if I were in a situation where I pulled, for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder&quot;&gt;Murder&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadbridge%20Goliath&quot;&gt;Deadbridge Goliath&lt;/a&gt;.) Remember how my pre-release didn't technically have blue-aligned, but I treated it as such because of how important I thought it was to cast two blue spells in a turn? (That's basically the same thing as having a blue aligned spell.) Trying to align to two colors was disastrous for me in that tournament. I went against a primary tenet of my deck building strategy, and I paid a hefty price (0-3 first three rounds, until I finally WTF'd.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming I have no mana fixing, I will go with 9/8 basics for no color aligned cards. The 'winner' (the color with 9) is the one that has more cards in that color. I will go with 11/6 if I have 1 or 2 color aligned cards. I will go with 12/6 if I have three or more color aligned cards. Note that 12/6 adds to 18, not 17 as normal. Because there's so many color aligned spells, I can afford to play more lands. Why 'afford'? Because a color aligned spell in my deck will always be more powerful than a non color aligned spell of the same cost. If it wasn't significantly more powerful (compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%27s%20Companion&quot;&gt;Garruk&amp;#39;s Companion&lt;/a&gt; again) I wouldn't align.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have mana fixing that is either mana-free (like dual lands) or is very cheap (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Traveler%27s%20Amulet&quot;&gt;Traveler&amp;#39;s Amulet&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Transguild%20Promenade&quot;&gt;Transguild Promenade&lt;/a&gt;) then it takes away from the biggest mana pool. For example, if I would have gone 12/6, and I get 3 fixers, it instead becomes 9/6 with 3 fixers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'm going 3 colors, I &lt;em&gt;do not use color aligned cards&lt;/em&gt;. It becomes more difficult for me to set any hard and fast rules because I don't often go three colors in limited. This will probably change this block, since RTR is so color-happy, and perhaps I'll re-evaluate this answer after doing more RTR.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With constructed it's very different. I &lt;strong&gt;do not use formulas&lt;/strong&gt; for constructed mana pool determination. I start with something that seems decent and I play test the deck against my other decks or against friends. With a constructed deck you have the luxury of playing the deck many, many times before you take it to a tournament. For this reason, you do not need to resort to using formulas which are &lt;strong&gt;always guesses&lt;/strong&gt; to what your mana pool needs. The only way to really know if you have a good mana pool is to play test your deck many times. You don't time to do that in a limited environment, so you are forced to use a formula to approximate your ideal mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in constructed, you have access to a wide variety of dual lands and mana fixers. The key is to get the right mana at the right time. When you're play testing, keep track of how many times you want to play a particular card, but can't, and why you can't. Perhaps it's because you don't meet requirements of the card. This happened to me with metalcraft a lot in the Scars block: what was the point of playing a card whose benefit was only worth the mana if I had three artifacts out and I didn't have those out yet? That might mean I need to scrap the deck, or it might just mean I need to do some tweaking. If a card, game after game, can't come out on turn X where X is it's CMC, (and you want it to... you don't usually want to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder&quot;&gt;Murder&lt;/a&gt; on turn 3...), you either need to fix your mana base or scrap the card. Both are good or bad options depending on the situation, and you can't make hard rules about that. It's that decision making that separates good deckbuilders from great deckbuilders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-01T23:31:00.527" LastActivityDate="2012-10-01T23:31:00.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-02T03:27:38.580" Score="4" ViewCount="3184" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family has been playing this card game for years but no one knows what it is called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start by dealing out 5 cards to everyone, then flip the next card, which marks the trump suit. The dealer can pick up that card and discard one from his hand face down. Then you go around the table and say if you are in or out, but the dealer has to be in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring: you start with 21 points and every trick lowers your points. If you get skunked you get 5 points added to your score. You want to get to exactly zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3344" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T05:26:48.167" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T18:44:10.923" Title="Trick-taking card game, where you aim to reach zero points?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8512" CreationDate="2012-10-02T04:32:44.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/class/trick.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;trick taking&lt;/a&gt; game in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rams/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rams group&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rams group:&lt;/strong&gt; in these games players have the opportunity to drop out after seeing their hands, but anyone who stays in and fails to make their quota of tricks suffers a penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these seem to match the rules you state exactly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rams/raub.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raub&lt;/a&gt; starts at 21, with players trying to get to 0 points. But, it is played with 4 cards, when you fail to score a trick you add +4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davidparlett.co.uk/histocs/loo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loo:&lt;/a&gt; doesn't have the starting total, with players winning shares of the pot for the proportion of tricks they take, with players that take none having to pay into the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rams/boure.html#introduction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bourre:&lt;/a&gt; also isn't a perfect fit. It also has a pot like Loo, has players who fail to take tricks paying into the pot. It does have the first revealed card to indicate trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T04:32:44.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-10-02T11:52:29.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there simply isn't anything you can do about it. There are a whole load of good suggestions on here, but actually changing the game through extensions can help somewhat, changes that I've found reduce this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5-6 player extension, gives you a bigger map so you block each other less and have a greater variety of hex's to choose from.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seafarers - there are more paths for navigation so you don't get blocked in and can earn victory points/explore using different resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cities &amp;amp; Knights - Change the tactics, people who are winning have to do things to slow themselves down (e.g. buying knights) which can help, and some upgrades allow you to collect cards even if you're numbers aren't coming up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distributed Dice - Using a deck of cards (or settlers dice cards if you've got traders &amp;amp; barbarians) allows the hex numbers to come up in a distributed way, reducing the chances of you never collecting your resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T11:52:29.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8516" CreationDate="2012-10-02T13:07:29.963" Score="10" ViewCount="14894" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really not clear to us how ships work in Game of Thrones &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you use a ship (an empty one, not carrying land units) to attack a castle/fortress/territory/port? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if you attack such areas with ships and those areas are defended by land units?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have ships in a port and the connected castle is conquered, what happens to the ships?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3345" LastEditorUserId="3345" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T14:28:15.243" LastActivityDate="2017-08-06T01:47:42.437" Title="Game of Thrones: ship rules" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8515" CreationDate="2012-10-02T14:08:55.690" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Ship units may move into friendly connected port areas or into adjacent sea areas, but may never move into a land area.&quot; (p. 15) So a ship alone cannot attack or conquer land. It can support a land attack, though, although the reverse is not true (p. 18).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As indicated above, &lt;strong&gt;this cannot happen.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can capture the ships.&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;If the land area connected to a Port is successfully attacked and taken control of by another player, that player may immediately replace any enemy Ship units in the Port with an equal number of his own available Ship units (or as many Ship units as he has available, he desires, or is allowed by supply limits). Excess enemy ships are simply removed from the board.&quot; (p. 25)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T14:08:55.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8517" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-02T16:07:57.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;A Game of Thrones: The Board Game&lt;/strong&gt;, players take control of one of the great Houses of &lt;strong&gt;Westeros&lt;/strong&gt;. Via resource management, diplomacy, and cunning, they seek to win dominance over the land. Players must give orders to armies, control important characters, gather resources for the coming winter, and survive the onslaught of their enemies. A unique phase mechanic, battle resolution, and special ordering system make for an engaging game in which all players are actively involved at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playable with&lt;/strong&gt;: 3-6 players; &lt;strong&gt;best with&lt;/strong&gt;: 3 or 6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="4902" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T12:37:41.643" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T12:37:41.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8518" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-02T16:07:57.320" Score="0" Body="A Game of Thrones: The Board Game. Players must give orders to armies, control important characters, gather resources for the coming winter, and survive the onslaught of their enemies in order to win dominance over the land." OwnerUserId="3274" LastEditorUserId="3274" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T16:29:48.290" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T16:29:48.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8520" CreationDate="2012-10-02T20:03:46.980" Score="6" ViewCount="16164" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the prerelease my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rites%20of%20Reaping&quot;&gt;Rites of Reaping&lt;/a&gt; to give his creature +3/+3 and my creature -3/-3. In response I sacrifice my creature with the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Golgari Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my understanding the card is similar to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Switcheroo&quot;&gt;Switcheroo&lt;/a&gt; where if the second target is no longer existing the spell will fizzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-03T16:18:27.803" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T16:18:27.803" Title="What happens if one of a spell's targets goes away before the spell resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8519" CreationDate="2012-10-02T20:06:33.410" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rites%20of%20Reaping&quot;&gt;Rites of Reaping&lt;/a&gt; will not fizzle, because some of its targets are still valid. The spell will only be countered if &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; of its targets are illegal. Instead, the spell does as much as possible, which is to give +3/+3 to his creature. This is defined by 608.2b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your probably came to the wrong conclusion because your understanding of what happens with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Switcheroo&quot;&gt;Switcheroo&lt;/a&gt; is incorrect. It won't be countered (fizzle) if only one of the targeted creatures disappears. However, it won't have any effect either. An &lt;em&gt;exchange&lt;/em&gt; requires something to be received and something to be given, so it cannot happen if one of the two targets is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal. If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability’s effect for which it is an illegal target can’t perform any actions on that target, make another object or player perform any actions on that target, or make that target perform any actions. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-02T20:16:17.010" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T20:16:17.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-02T20:58:39.350" Score="2" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner opened a &quot;strong&quot; one NT. I am holding:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♠ void&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♥ KJxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♦ AKQxxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;♣ KJx  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3163" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T00:15:12.637" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T20:30:05.633" Title="Should I respond to 1 NT in a suit or NT holding 17 HCP and a void?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8521" CreationDate="2012-10-02T21:14:30.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would bid 4C (Gerber) to ask about aces. If partner has 3, bid 7D. If partner has only 2, bid 6D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weak point in this hand is if partner has, say, the KJ in spades; some other responder might have a fancier convention to pick out the specific high cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-02T21:14:30.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-10-03T03:31:03.553" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have won games with a bad initial draw by simply forgoing tickets. This really works best when you have two tickets that are only worth 4 - 5 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the lowest value tickets, return the highest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignore the tickets completely&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediately aim for as many five and six train routes as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can hit the stretch of three six train routes across the top of the US or a the bottom, that might lead to the longest route bonus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be willing to 'waste' a turn, perhaps two, per player breaking/blocking them using one,  two if you must, train routes. Watch the San Francisco, Portland and Seattle section for easy opportunities to block; Houston works well as well here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3349" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T03:31:03.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7779" CreationDate="2012-10-03T10:21:49.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judging from the games I've played of Settlers, of the fraction which isn't luck based, about 75% of your win-chance is from &lt;strong&gt;initial settlement&lt;/strong&gt; placement, with the remainder down to strategy. This is partly because your initial settlement placement dictates your strategy, and trying to change it afterwards will normally end badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When looking at the board, you need to be able to identify which resources will be in demand, and where all the starting settlements will be. You might not be able to accurately predict which players will go where, but &lt;strong&gt;you should be able to identify ~9 spots for a 4 player game of which 8 will have starting settlements placed on them&lt;/strong&gt;. The only thing to watch out for it when one location will block 1-2 other likely starting places, which can severely restrict the choice of the last player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you are going for the very unlikely 2City, 4VPcard+largest army strategy, you will want to take 2 settlements. Since you get 2 free roads, you should place these in a direction to get a new settlement. &lt;strong&gt;It is very important NOT to place your free roads towards a location someone else will probably place a starting settlement&lt;/strong&gt;, as then you have wasted your free road! Place them heading out to the coast is normally good, as there is plenty of room for settlements on the coast while there will normally be very minimal room in the interior. It doesn't even matter if you get decent resources from your 2 settlements, they are VPs and allow more cities to be built for even more VPs. If they get you a port or more resources, then that's a bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your game, you went first which is probably the worse position to be in. However, you should evaluate where everyone else will probably go before placing your settlement. If you think you won't get access to both wheat and ore, then don't place your first settlement where you did, going for the best ore location is rarely a bad move! Then when you come at the end to place your second settlement, you are in the unique position of getting to go immediately afterwards. This lets you do cunning tricks such as placing it on a wood/brick location (even if poor numbers) to start with those resources, then immediately building a road which combined with your free one can be used to block another player's starting road for a race to a good location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-10-03T10:21:49.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8528" CreationDate="2012-10-03T21:09:18.443" Score="7" ViewCount="3934" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cremate&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cremate - {B}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instant - common RTR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exile target card from a graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, can I use this to respond to a flashback or scavenge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the comp rules, the first thing you do when casting a spell (in the case of flashback) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2a The player announces that he or she is casting the spell. That card (or that copy of a card) moves from where it is to the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it moves on to the stack, is it still in the graveyard for me to exile? And even if it was, would the effect be countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you can't use it to counter flashback and such, it seems to detract from its usefulness at instant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-20T22:19:51.697" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T17:38:19.487" Title="Does Cremate counter Flashback, Scavenge, and their ilk?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8527" CreationDate="2012-10-03T21:17:51.353" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever one has a question involving keyword abilities, one should start by finding out what abilities they represent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.33a Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player’s graveyard and another that functions while the card is on the stack. “Flashback [cost]” means “You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost” and “If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.” Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can't cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCremate%5d&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt; in response to Flashback since Flashback doesn't go on the stack. It's a static ability that allows you to cast the card from somewhere it couldn't normally be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCremate%5d&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt; in response to someone casting a card from a graveyard, Cremate won't be able to target the card just cast. By the time the card in the graveyard is cast, it's no longer in the graveyard; it's on the stack, where it's not a valid target for Cremate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.96a Scavenge is an activated ability that functions only while the card with scavenge is in a graveyard. “Scavenge [cost]” means “[Cost], Exile this card from your graveyard: Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to the power of the card you exiled on target creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCremate%5d&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt; in response to someone activating Scavenge, Cremate won't be able to target the card with Scavenge. Part of the cost of activating Scavenge involves exiling the card. By the time the ability is activated, the card is no longer in the graveyard; it's in exile where it's not a valid target for Cremate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But if you can't use it to counter flashback and such, it seems to detract from its usefulness at instant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but keep in mind that Scavenge and Sorceries with Flashback (as opposed to Instants with Flashback) can only be used &quot;any time you could cast a sorcery” (in your main phase when the stack is empty). If you initiate the Cremate, if it's outside of his turn, or if it's outside of his main phases, he can't Scavenge or cast the Sorcery. Scavange and Flashback is often quite expensive, so cost could also affect when one can take advantage of it. End of Combat Damage step would be a good time to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it could take a bit of planning to use Cremate, but that's not too much to ask from a one mana cantrip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T17:38:19.487" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T17:38:19.487" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8527" CreationDate="2012-10-03T23:26:36.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now, can I use this to respond to a flashback or scavange?&lt;/strong&gt; No. Flashback and Scavenge both remove the card from the graveyard, where you would &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; the card with your spell. Without a valid target, you cannot cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cremate&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.32a Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player’s graveyard ... . “Flashback [cost]” means “You may &lt;strong&gt;cast this card from your graveyard&lt;/strong&gt; by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost” ... . Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to &lt;strong&gt;take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.95a Scavenge is an activated ability that functions only while the card with scavenge is in a graveyard. “Scavenge [cost]” means “[Cost], &lt;strong&gt;Exile this card from your graveyard&lt;/strong&gt;: Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to the power of the card you exiled on target creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Because it moves on to the stack, is it still in the graveyard for me to exile? And even if it was, would the effect be countered?&lt;/strong&gt; No. Cards and other objects cannot be in two places at the same time. If the card is on the stack, it is not in the graveyard for you to exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card was in the graveyard, and for instance, &lt;strong&gt;Scavenge&lt;/strong&gt; read like this (which it doesn't):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scavenge [cost] means &amp;quot;[Cost]: Exile this card from your graveyard. Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to the power of this card on target creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card would use Last Know Information, and the effect wouldn't be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last Known Information&lt;/strong&gt; - Information about an object that’s no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in, or information about a player that’s no longer in the game. This information captures that object’s last existence in that zone or that player’s last existence in the game. See rules 112.7a, 608.2b, 608.2g, and 800.4g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If perhaps the ability were worded similar to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standstill&quot;&gt;Standstill&lt;/a&gt;, with an &amp;quot;if you do,&amp;quot; then the effect would be countered because Scavenge didn't exile the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scavenge [cost] means &amp;quot;[Cost]: Exile this card from your graveyard. If you do, put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to the power of this card on target creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-04T00:45:37.370" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T00:45:37.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8487" CreationDate="2012-10-04T20:27:22.637" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hardest part of computing the probability is determining the best strategy for the players.  I have used a script to simulate games where players use a few simple tactics, and estimated the probability based on these strategies. Given that the strategies I implemented are not the optimal strategy, these figures provide an upper bound on the probability of a first turn loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of this answer assumes that the players are playing on &quot;Normal&quot; difficulty, that is with five epidemic cards.  To find equivalent probabilities for other difficulties, see the section below entitled &quot;The player deck&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise the results, here is a table showing my estimate of the probability of a first turn loss for different strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Strategy        | Probability of first turn loss at Normal difficulty&#xA;Do Nothing      | 0.0018&#xA;Drive/Treat     | 0.0013&#xA;Drive/Fly/Treat | 0.0011-0.0012&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probability of losing in the first turn, given that the players do their best to prevent it, is therefore less than 1/900.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Player Deck&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set up the player deck, some cards are dealt to the players and then epidemic cards are distributed throughout the deck.  The number of cards dealt to the players, &lt;strong&gt;d&lt;/strong&gt;, varies with the number of players.  We either have &lt;strong&gt;d = 8&lt;/strong&gt; in 2 or 4 player games, or &lt;strong&gt;d = 9&lt;/strong&gt; in 3 player games.  The remaining &lt;strong&gt;(53-d)&lt;/strong&gt; cards are split into &lt;strong&gt;e&lt;/strong&gt; roughly equal piles, and an epidemic is shuffled into each, before they are restacked (with any larger piles on top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We observe that to lose in the first turn an epidemic must be drawn.  The probability of drawing an epidemic as one of the top two cards of the deck is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Epidemic drawn) = 2 / (ceil((53-d)/e)+1)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where ceil is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floor_and_ceiling_functions&quot;&gt;ceiling function&lt;/a&gt;.  This results in the following table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;d | e | P(Epidemic drawn)&#xA;8 | 4 | 2/13 = 0.154&#xA;8 | 5 | 2/10 = 0.200&#xA;8 | 6 | 2/9  = 0.222&#xA;9 | 4 | 2/12 = 0.167&#xA;9 | 5 | 2/10 = 0.200&#xA;9 | 6 | 2/9  = 0.222&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the rest of the discussion we assume &lt;strong&gt;e&lt;/strong&gt; is 5 (&quot;Normal&quot; difficulty), but the above table can be used to compute equivalent probabilities for other values of &lt;strong&gt;e&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;d&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The &quot;Do Nothing&quot; Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the simplest strategy is for the players to do nothing.  This is also a strategy that maximises the chance of losing in the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the calculation I employed a python script to simulate a million games, assuming that an epidemic card is drawn.  It picks nine cities to infect for the set up, and then one more to infect for the epidemic.  It repicks two cities to re-infect, and counts the outbreaks and cubes used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gave the probability of losing, given that an epidemic is drawn is about 0.009245.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining this with the probability of drawing an epidemic card we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Lose first turn on Normal | Players do nothing) ~= 0.001849&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The &quot;Drive/Treat&quot; Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a simple improvement on doing nothing, I assumed the first player would ignore their cards, and drive to the nearest city with three cubes, removing as many as possible.  If they couldn't remove any from three cube cities, they would try for the nearest two cube city, and finally they would try for the nearest one cube city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gave the following probability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Lose first turn on Normal | Using &quot;Drive/Treat&quot; Strategy) ~= 0.001343&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The &quot;Drive/Fly/Treat&quot; Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, as an improvement on the &quot;Drive/Treat&quot; strategy I considered trying to fly to a city infected with three cubes.  If anyone has the &quot;Airlift&quot; or &quot;Government Grant&quot; special event cards, then they can be used to get the first player to any city in 0 or 1 actions respectively, meaning that three cubes can be treated.  Similarly if any other player has the Atlanta card it can be passed, and the first player can charter a flight, leaving two actions to remove cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also considered the case where the player has the card of a 3-cube city, or Atlanta, and they use that to fly and remove three cubes from a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are further variations on this that I did not consider in this tactic, such as moving to Washington, chartering a flight and treating two cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this strategy gave the following probabilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Lose first turn on Normal | 4 players using &quot;Drive/Fly/Treat&quot; Strategy) ~= 0.001208&#xA;P(Lose first turn on Normal | 3 players using &quot;Drive/Fly/Treat&quot; Strategy) ~= 0.001145&#xA;P(Lose first turn on Normal | 2 players using &quot;Drive/Fly/Treat&quot; Strategy) ~= 0.001167&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think my simulation is evidence enough to say that the deviation between these three results is significant, but I think they're good enough to give a first-turn-lose probability between 0.0011 and 0.0012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Potential Improvements&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have played the game then I'm sure you can think of situations in which these strategies are not optimal.  Here are a few things that could be included, that I think would make a significant improvement to the strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treat more than one city if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target infected cities that are next to each other in preference to isolated ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &quot;One Quiet Night&quot; or &quot;Forecast&quot; to prevent the first turn loss (this is a big one - it's possible about one game in three).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &quot;Resilient Population&quot; to lower the chance of a first turn loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the researcher into account for passing cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2012-10-04T20:27:22.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8534" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-05T20:00:26.417" Score="5" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;This game is played with several tables of four in which winning partners in one round move to new table.  Wild cards/rules change with each round.  It's great for getting to know people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lost my set of rules &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3360" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T02:26:04.613" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T02:26:04.613" Title="Looking for rules to a card game called &quot;Wild Cards&quot;" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-12T17:08:01.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8536" CreationDate="2012-10-05T21:13:56.533" Score="6" ViewCount="8041" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a Selesnya tokens deck, and my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Detention%20Sphere&quot;&gt;Detention Sphere&lt;/a&gt;, which exiles all creatures with the &amp;quot;same name&amp;quot;, on one of my tokens. Does he get to exile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of my tokens?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the tokens of the same creature type/power/toughness? (E.g. all 1/1 Birds.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just that one token?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T22:51:15.107" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T22:51:15.107" Title="When does a token have the same name as another token?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8535" CreationDate="2012-10-05T21:18:56.840" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the above. It will exile all permanents with the same name as targeted permanent. This may or may not be all your tokens. This may or may not be all your only token. Type, power and toughness are irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some abilities explicitly give names to the tokens they create. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tolsimir%20Wolfblood&quot;&gt;Tolsimir Wolfblood&lt;/a&gt; creates a token of creature type &amp;quot;Wolf&amp;quot; named &amp;quot;Voja&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Detention Sphere to exile a permanent named &amp;quot;Voja&amp;quot;, it will exile all permanents named &amp;quot;Voja&amp;quot;, and only those. &lt;em&gt;(It doesn't matter if they are tokens or not. It will not exile permanents named &amp;quot;Wolf&amp;quot;. It will not exile permanents of creature type &amp;quot;Wolf&amp;quot; unless their name is &amp;quot;Voja&amp;quot;. It will not exile tokens unless their name is &amp;quot;Voja&amp;quot;.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some don't. If the ability did not explicitly give a name to the token, its name is the same as its type. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eyes%20in%20the%20Skies&quot;&gt;Eyes in the Skies&lt;/a&gt; creates a token of creature type &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot; named &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Detention Sphere to exile a permanent named &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot;, it will exile all permanents named &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot;, and only those. &lt;em&gt;(It doesn't matter if they are tokens or not. It will not exile permanents named &amp;quot;Saproling&amp;quot;. It will not exile permanents of creature type &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot; unless their name is &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot;. It will not exile tokens unless their name is &amp;quot;Bird&amp;quot;.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5c A spell or ability that creates a creature token sets both its name and its creature type. If the spell or ability doesn’t specify the name of the creature token, its name is the same as its creature type(s). A “Goblin Scout creature token,” for example, is named “Goblin Scout” and has the creature subtypes Goblin and Scout. Once a token is on the battlefield, changing its name doesn’t change its creature type, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T22:17:50.453" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T22:17:50.453" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8538" CreationDate="2012-10-05T22:01:19.377" Score="3" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;This frequently comes up when I play Alien Frontiers: both the Burroughs Desert (for its relic ship) and the Holographic Decoys are hotly-contested commodities.  (Yes, it's a bit silly to use the Raider's Outpost to steal the Holographic Decoy so that nobody can use the Raider's Outpost on you except to steal the Holographic Decoy, but it's still a useful move if you have the alien artifacts that are worth victory points.) The trouble comes when I want one of those contested resources; each time I steal that resource, it's useful to me.  But if that guy over there is going to keep stealing it back, then it's a waste (and the other players will pull ahead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: in a 3- or 4-player game, when should I steal that resource back, and when should I decide I've wasted too much time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-05T22:47:16.823" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:00:52.033" Title="When should I stop retaliating?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8537" CreationDate="2012-10-05T23:00:52.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, having six dice available is a powerful threat that your opponents should never ignore. Attempting to take and hold the Burroughs Desert, with its access to the cheap relic ship, will probably not be worth the cost under any circumstances unless your opponents are allowing you to get away with murder. Either judicious use of colony-moving artifacts (making the region a tie) or the Inderdiction Field should shut down the Burroughs Desert. Consider it a threat to make your opponents spend resources, not an opportunity in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, the Holographic Decoy is a lot easier to steal successfully. It's wonderful to have, but you need to know if it's likely to be stolen right away. If there's another player at the table who will steal it just to have it... don't waste your own resources. Otherwise, take it if there's nothing you need more right now (maybe a low 1-2-3 with no way to steal resources you can use) and especially if you might be able to use its best power--to hold ore from turn to turn without it being stolen--in the next turn or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do grab the Holographic Decoy, try to get ore in the same turn if possible. It's less attractive to steal the Decoy if the next player will then have access to all your ore for cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-05T23:00:52.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8540" CreationDate="2012-10-05T23:53:00.253" Score="4" ViewCount="1616" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a bonus card (either longest route or globetrotter) when playing the Ticket to Ride USA 1910 Expansion in Big Cities mode?  There is no mention of it in the rules.  Is this an oversight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T05:10:15.363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T05:10:15.363" Title="Is there a bonus card when playing the Ticket to Ride USA 1910 Expansion in Big Cities mode?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8539" CreationDate="2012-10-06T09:06:03.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; use either bonus card in the Big Cities version of the game (as it's not suggested that you should in the rulebook).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This interpretation is backed up by the computer version and the ruleset found in the computer version, which don't use a bonus card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T05:09:40.917" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T05:09:40.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8534" CreationDate="2012-10-06T12:40:20.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, after commenting above, I discovered that you can play Bunco using cards instead of dice.  Check out some of the card-based variants on this page - maybe one of them will be close enough (at least in spirit) to the game that you remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ehow.com/info_12101194_bunco-card-games.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.ehow.com/info_12101194_bunco-card-games.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T12:40:20.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8330" CreationDate="2012-10-06T16:29:48.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot find an authoritative source, but according to my best reading of the rules and BGG's forums, you can make the trade &lt;strong&gt;once per turn, during the phase of your turn when you play your action card, as long as that event is in play.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My justification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;p. 7 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/mfg-shop3/rules/MFG4118-Rules-V1_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; indicates that &lt;strong&gt;&quot;for long-term events, you may make the trade once per round.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;p. 3 indicates that blue event cards must be taken into account &lt;strong&gt;when playing your action card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Together, I take these to mean that you can only make the trade once, but that you can make it every turn, and around the time of your turn when you are using your action card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/472690/blue-lasting-event-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;These&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/715157/chapter-4-event-card-every-player-is-allowed-to-tr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;threads&lt;/a&gt; on BGG suggest the same thing. One of the posters cites an official Mayfair answer, but it's not linked anywhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T16:29:48.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8544" CreationDate="2012-10-06T17:33:03.057" Score="8" ViewCount="1713" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a two person game, one should try to make the &quot;best moves.&quot; (If your opponent doesn't, you'll crush him unless the dice or other luck factors go very much against you.) That's not always true in a multiperson game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Diplomacy (which I know better), the player that goes from three to six cities in the first year becomes an obvious target. (Russia, which goes from four to six is the most frequent winner, but the second most frequent loser.) So in the beginning it's better to keep a low profile, do good but not great, let other players fight it out for half to two two-thirds of the game, and make a &quot;run&quot; toward the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a similar dynamic be at work in Settlers of Catan? That is, you want to do well enough in the beginning to &quot;keep up with the pack,&quot; and yet not so well that other players see you as a threat and gang up on you? Is it even possible that bad play (or bad dice) in the beginning will generate a &quot;sympathy&quot; or &quot;no threat&quot; factor that will cause other players to treat you well later on?  And is one way is to get ahead quietly by accumulating good cards instead of good hexes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to pre-arrange this, but if I could, I'd arrange to have all my bad die rolls in the beginning and the good ones at the end so I could be &quot;non-threatening in the beginning, and make a surge at the end. Are there other ways to accomplish this in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-01-28T00:15:23.217" Title="In Settlers of Catan (like Diplomacy), is the secret to winning avoiding &quot;peaking too soon?&quot;" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2012-10-06T18:07:42.663" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often write that &lt;strong&gt;it depends on the group&lt;/strong&gt;, but I think that's especially applicable here. If you are playing against computer AIs for instance, of course you want to maximize your VPs at every step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, though, I don't think it's wise to sandbag in Catan--or to inwardly cheer bad luck. In the worst case scenario, aggressive Robber usage and trade embargos will hold you back until someone catches up with you. At that point, you can earnestly point out that you are no longer winning. Even if you're the obvious leader, as long as you have no more than 6-7 VPs, you can often arrange a mutually beneficial trade with someone desperate enough for what you have to break the opponents' embargo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, having a powerful position gives extra resources, which can help you forge ahead or expand a lead, even if the other players are trying to stop you. If you plan to take an early lead, I think it's definitely &lt;strong&gt;better to go for cities and settlements, not Longest Road.&lt;/strong&gt; Definitely avoid going for the Longest Road early in the game, until you either actually need the road, or the 2 VP are close to mattering to decide the winner. Having the card paints a target on you as a leader, and distracts attention from other possible leaders, but doesn't help you generate any more resources. Another worry is getting two cities off the gate (maybe with an early ore/grain settlement placement) but being hemmed in without a decent third building site opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen players try to stay at 7 VP and hoarding resources until they can make a big break by taking Longest Road and building 1 VP worth of stuff in the same turn. It's sometimes worked, but sometimes fallen flat as savvy opponents can look at the resources you've been gathering and guess what your opportunities are. And isn't the point of pondering strategy to prepare for savvy opponents? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-06T18:07:42.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8550" CreationDate="2012-10-07T23:32:37.960" Score="9" ViewCount="4234" Body="&lt;p&gt;At one level, &quot;longest road,&quot; is an &quot;obvious&quot; way to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At another level, could it be too obvious? That is, a player clearly pursuing this strategy might stir too much fear in opponents, who will then try to break up the road, or hamper him in other ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it requires an abundance of certain materials, namely wood and brick. Could a single-minded focus these materials hurt a player's game in other ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a &quot;better&quot; way to build the longest road, i.e. build settlements with &quot;short&quot; roads some optimal distances apart, then connect them &quot;naturally&quot; toward the end, when opponents' attentions are focused elsewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do people in your games use a &quot;longest road&quot; strategy too much, or conversely, &quot;too little?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2020-12-25T17:06:05.430" Title="Is &quot;Longest Road&quot; an overrated strategy in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8545" CreationDate="2012-10-08T02:04:58.037" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Longest Road gives a player who happens to have an abundance of wood and brick late-game a way to convert those resources into VPs, and deny those same VPs to others. It also rewards players who have built several settlements and built their opening settlements near each other, and slightly discourages shooting straight for cities--not that shooting straight for cities isn't still a great strategy if the appropriate resources are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going for Longest Road before the player has at least 6 VPs from cities and settlements is probably a waste of resources in most cases. The opponents can make more valuable resource investments in the short term and fight for Longest Road later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T02:04:58.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8421" CreationDate="2012-10-08T02:11:29.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially, they are budget duel lands to help balance out almost any multicolored deck. Yes, you can't use it the turn you cast it, but you don't always need that extra mana anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T02:11:29.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2570" CreationDate="2012-10-08T02:14:18.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Pat indicates in his answer, the Largest Army card is not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of this question hints at the &lt;strong&gt;Defender of Catan&lt;/strong&gt; points that are awarded, which sort of take the place of Largest Army. When the barbarians reach Catan, if the total strength of active knights equals or exceeds the total number of cities, the player with the most total strength in active knights receives one permanent VP. (If the total strength of active knights is not enough, the player with the least strength has a city sacked, downgrading it to a settlement.) See p. 11 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?CaK_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T02:14:18.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8543" CreationDate="2012-10-08T10:38:51.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to bear in mind is, even if you are in the lead, will an opponent want to place the robber on your hexes? One way to avoid this is to try to share hexes with other players. A city on an 8 ore is a good robber target, but if 2 other players are also on that ore they aren't going to want to place the robber there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like largest army/longest road can be counter-productive if they get you a large point lead, but you lack cities/settlements to keep up with the other player's production. Getting early settlements are never a bad idea though; better to have 2/3 hexes from a new settlement with 1 blocked from the robber than 0/3 from not having it and no robber!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2012-10-08T13:06:05.627" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T13:06:05.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8545" CreationDate="2012-10-08T13:59:07.900" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many great games, Settlers of Catan rewards those players who are willing to be adaptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doggedly centering your strategy, from the beginning, on obtaining wood and clay (to the exclusion of other goods) and building road after road with it, is likely to secure you a certain number of victory points.  That number is nowhere near enough to win you the game - you're going to have to do other things with your time and resources at some point to clinch first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Longest Road bonus incentivise road building?  Of course it does, to some extent, just as the Largest Army bonus incentivises buying cards.  What it &lt;em&gt;mostly&lt;/em&gt; does, though, is ensure that there is competition in various areas of the game.  If only one player cares about roads, the Longest Road bonus will fall to them without any effort on their part.  Likewise for Largest Army if only one player is bothering to buy cards.  However, gamer psychology is such that, given an obvious bonus to be obtained, players will not be able to bear letting it go easily, and at least some of them are likely to compete vigorously for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I see the Longest Road bonus less as &quot;a strategy&quot; and more as a nice little, well, bonus... if you're brave enough to enter into a competition with other players over it.  Competition is necessary for a game to work, but it can, as you rightly point out, paint a general target on your forehead, or make enemies of specific other players.  If that's not the type of thing you like to get involved in, you might indeed want to adopt a more surreptitious strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly I would tend to prefer not aiming for the Longest Road early: let other people set themselves up as &quot;the one to beat&quot; by gaining an early lead.  Keeping an eye on the road situation, and perhaps setting yourself up to win with a late road-building spurt, is great though.  As I say though, adaptability is key: if everyone in your group fancies themselves as road-builders, it's a very risky strategy.  If no one else is doing it... you'd be a fool not to pile in there as quickly as possible, really!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-08T13:59:07.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8552" CreationDate="2012-10-08T23:15:33.470" Score="10" ViewCount="851" Body="&lt;p&gt;My hardest games are where the board is filled with terminal actions.  When you have a board where 10 out of 10 actions are terminal actions, some of which are attack cards, or there is one card that has a plus card and plus action, but may not be the most appealing to chain with, I'm not sure what a good strategy is here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it may be beneficial to go with a 2 or 3 to 1 coin to action, does that make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T03:32:52.290" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T17:21:52.360" Title="Dominion: How to Deal With a Board Filled With Terminal Actions" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8551" CreationDate="2012-10-09T00:07:32.780" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A high money:action ratio is definitely required with an overabundance of terminals. What ratio is appropriate will depend on which of those terminals you decide to use and if/how you're being attacked. Generally it's better to err on the side of too much money; people aren't usually disappointed by a hand full of Silvers, and you won't bore your friends taking time to decide which 1 of 3 actions to play. A slightly augmented big money strategy is often very competitive in the absence of an engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hand will be small (due to, say, a discard attack and not much card draw available), you can risk having more actions because they odds of collisions are lower. In a &gt;2 player game where you think Militia is likely to be played between almost every one of your turns, you could probably do nearly a 1:1 ratio of Militias and Silvers until you get to Golds. Games like this often end on piles, so getting an extra buy and starting early on Duchies is probably a good idea. (If you're discarding cards anyway, they might as well be points rather than money.) Also realize that in games with more than 2 people, joining in on attacks is less mandatory. If both other players are snapping up the Militias, you'll be better off letting them attack each other and instead getting a card that actually benefits you (e.g. Navigator).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are trashing or drawing a lot, you should be buying more money. If one of your terminals is Council Room, that means you're drawing 4 cards and hoping none of them are actions. Even if your terminal only draws 2 cards, if you've gotten rid of your Coppers, you need to be buying Silver and Gold to make sure your deck has enough money cards. &quot;Doublejack&quot; where the only non-money cards you buy are two Jack of All Trades is incredibly good because it trashes, draws, and helps you treasure-up all at once (not to mention it's extremely resilient against attacks). And you only need 2 Jacks to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T17:21:52.360" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T17:21:52.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10823" CreationDate="2012-10-09T02:33:09.463" Score="15" ViewCount="72248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have version 1.3 of Cards Against Humanity, but it's got different cards than the free to download PDF file.  Which cards are different between the various versions of CAH?  Since I've also got some blanks from the expansion pack, I'd like to make some new cards without duplicating anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2012-10-09T14:22:46.707" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T10:40:22.327" Title="What's the difference between the versions of Cards Against Humanity?" Tags="|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8551" CreationDate="2012-10-09T04:08:48.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;On boards like this, you will indeed want to &lt;strong&gt;buy mostly Silver and Gold&lt;/strong&gt;, with no more than a few Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many Actions you buy will depend on the Actions. &lt;strong&gt;If your Actions draw you cards, you will usually want fewer of them.&lt;/strong&gt; Smithy and Envoy in particular provide powerful increases to your buying power and help cycle your deck. A deck with nothing but a single Smithy or Envoy and treasure can be pretty powerful, even against fancy action chaining. But &lt;strong&gt;adding a second drawing card doesn't help much&lt;/strong&gt;, because if you draw both together (likely, since each one draws cards) the second is a wasted card and you'll wish you had Silver instead. Library, Council Room, and Hunting Grounds similarly don't play very well with other actions in the absence of Villages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;if strong terminals that don't draw are available, you can probably afford two or three&lt;/strong&gt; in your deck. These are less likely to collide and be wasted, because they don't increase your handsize. Shujaa cited Militia, which is an excellent example. Other candidates include Navigator and Jester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are actions that offer +1 Action, consider them carefully along with your terminals. With terminals that draw, they can be risky. Drawing a Market with your Smithy is maddening. If your terminals don't draw, it's less of a risk. Also, if powerful chain drawing like Laboratory or Stables is available, &lt;strong&gt;make sure you know where your +Buy is coming from.&lt;/strong&gt; It does you little good to have a $14 hand if you have only one buy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I want to second shujaa's recommendation of &lt;strong&gt;Jack of All Trades, an important card on any board&lt;/strong&gt; and a dynamite card in any deck that doesn't rely on heavy action chaining. Filling your deck with Silver, trashing Estates, and not losing handsize to do it is a powerful combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T04:08:48.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8521" CreationDate="2012-10-09T15:22:11.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to make a &lt;strong&gt;forcing&lt;/strong&gt; bid, what you specifically bid will depend entirely on what conventions you and your partner are playing with.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Assuming you're playing with a strong 1NT opener (15-17 HCP), that means you and your partner have 32-34 HCP.  Since it's 33 points for slam and you've got a void, you know you've got that.  That means you have to force the bidding to continue until you get to the 6 level.  Whether or not you make it go to 7, and in which specific contract you want to end up, those are things you can use all that bidding room to decide.  A typical tool for this purpose is Blackwood/Gerber.  With a bid suit preference, I like the additional information gathered with Roman Key Card.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwood_convention&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nice wiki reference&lt;/a&gt; to help you pick a Blackwood convention to use.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just keep in mind that unless you've got that 33 points (pretty rare) there's a good chance you're just bidding yourself into a hole.  I've definitely seen players who are &lt;em&gt;way&lt;/em&gt; too anxious to try out their Blackwood bidding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T15:22:11.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7207" CreationDate="2012-10-09T22:00:33.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a Kaggle competition sponsored by the FIDE looking for an alternative to the current ELO system. The link is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kaggle.com/c/ChessRatings2&quot;&gt;http://www.kaggle.com/c/ChessRatings2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dataset has over a million actual games covering ~50k players. There's also discussions of the alternative approaches used (the competition itself is now over) and scoreboard of metrics to see how well your ranking system compares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3370" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T22:00:33.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8545" CreationDate="2012-10-09T22:54:39.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Longest Road, while usually important to victory, is not worth pursuing to the exclusion of other elements. It's only 2 of the 8 additional victory points needed (remembering that it's a race to 10, and you start with 2 already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is, at best, 1/4 of your victory. Largest Army and new cities are likewise equally important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For my own play, I've found that it's best to simply concetrate on getting the resource base you need, and then use longest road as a means to snap up the last 2 VP, rather than worth direct strategizing about... quite unlike one's establishment of settlements and cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T22:54:39.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8560" CreationDate="2012-10-09T23:17:24.827" Score="14" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, is accumulating cards less visible/threatening than accumulating resources, settlements or roads?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, is building &quot;basic strength&quot; (e.g. settlements and cities) less provocative than going after a single resource? Yet could this be more effective (because it allows you to pursue multiple resources) than obviously trying to &quot;corner&quot; one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-01-07T00:03:13.357" Title="In Settlers of Catan, what are ways to &quot;hide&quot; your strength until the end?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8558" CreationDate="2012-10-09T23:26:24.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hold a Monopoly card. Most opponents will assume it is a VP card, but played at the right time you can use it to create a huge turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-09T23:26:24.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8558" CreationDate="2012-10-09T23:47:07.740" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoarding developments cards is a great way. Here's a few specifics on that, along with a few ways that don't involve development cards (note that you usually don't want to exploit your hidden strength until you think it will propel you to victory):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold off using a Monopoly card even if you get it very early in the&#xA;game. Wait for exactly that right moment when there are many of one&#xA;resource that you can monopolize and efficiently convert into several&#xA;settlements/cities/dev cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold off using a Road Building card until it results in you getting&#xA;longest road and a new settlement all on the same turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold off using a Year of Plenty card until you happen to have a card&#xA;combo in your hand where employing it results in a 3 victory point&#xA;turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a couple roads that go off to horribly unproductive locations -&#xA;but are nonetheless potential settlement sites. Many people&#xA;automatically assume you'll never build there - but you will on the&#xA;turn it vaults you to victory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People often have no clue that you'll have longest road with&#xA;just 2-3 more road links closing 1 or 2 loops. Do this on purpose,&#xA;particularly if you have a hidden road building development card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If playing with the Seafarers expansion, have extra ships available&#xA;that you will eventually use to build a surprise settlement, or&#xA;better yet a surprise settlement on a new island that gets you a&#xA;victory point bonus, or best of all combine with leaping to longest&#xA;road. But of course try not to make it obvious you're planning this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you have a hand of 7 unplayed development cards, you will be greatly feared so all the hidden strength tactics involving development cards work best when you have 2-3 unplayed cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most important hidden strength:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gear your initial settlement placement and early building towards the end game. In other words - go for ore and grain, with a little sheep thrown in. You will fall behind in the beginning but so long as you get at least 1 additional settlement, you'll have no problems towards the end of the game while others stall out. Taken to extremes, it's possible to win with only 2 settlements, as I did here (nobody realized how strong I was until the game was just about over - those 15 development cards were all mine, though I didn't have enough turns to play them all!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xQEME.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;White wins without ever building a road&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T15:51:28.907" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T15:51:28.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8563" CreationDate="2012-10-10T02:47:48.983" Score="5" ViewCount="31582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1650/what-are-the-differences-between-the-four-editions-of-the-settlers-of-catan-base&quot;&gt;four editions&lt;/a&gt; of The Settlers of Catan so far. But how do you tell which edition it is when buying? Is it written somewhere on the box? The titles for the products in online shops sometimes contain the edition and sometimes don't, and I don't want to end up buying an old edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3371" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T04:53:48.047" Title="How to determine the edition of The Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8561" CreationDate="2012-10-10T04:14:51.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG page&lt;/a&gt; has a photograph for for each version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your profile indicates that you are located in Russia. I only see one &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/977598/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Russian language edition&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking at American Mayfair-published editions, the box art style is distinctively different between &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/268839/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fourth edition&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/2730/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;third edition&lt;/a&gt;, which are the versions I commonly see. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/85006/the-settlers-of-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;first and second editions&lt;/a&gt; have an identical box; the second edition has a sticker on the shrink and different color player pieces, but are otherwise the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T04:14:51.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8561" CreationDate="2012-10-10T04:53:48.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are differences in cover art and publisher. And there are counting different languages, over 50 different editions of the base game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common US versions are US third and US fourth editions by Mayfair... other countries' edition counts may vary, plus the US editions have made the rounds...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current, US 4th Mayfair edition shows a scene with several colonists on a road along a wheat field, with a large sun in the background. The water is a puzzle frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third is basically off-white front, with red sides, with a crest in the upper left, and an inset of some individuals negotiating in the lower right. The water is hexagonal tiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people's 3rd edition copies will have a 4th edition frame, rulebook, and port markers; these were provided in an &quot;Adaptation Kit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both 3rd and 4th edition have 4 colors of pieces, and specific colors seem to have varied slightly, with red, blue, white and either yellow or orange; black and neutral wood were in the 5-6 player expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first and second are brown boxes with a sun in the upper left. The 2nd edition was essentially the same as the first, save for extra rules and different colors, and 1st edition may have been reprinted at the same time as second. 1st ed colors are red, blue, green, and natural wood; 2nd are black, purple, yellow, and orange, and the box might be stickered as 2nd edition. Note that some people will have combined a 1st edition and second edition for play with up to 8 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mayfair used the same illustration for the Travel Edition as on 3rd, but the front is basically red. The pieces are much smaller, have large stubs, and the hexes have circular voids for the fixed numbers in the plastic board. The art and rules are pretty much the same as third, but all components are smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also was a Simply Fun version, retitled &quot;Simply Catan&quot;, which shows a city against a large sun, and water in the front. It's a frame version, and has 3d plastic road, settlement and city pieces in red, orange, white and blue, with the board comprised of strips, rather than separate hexes. Further, the frame includes many rules elements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's not counting the other games: The Card Game, the Dice Game, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BGG links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/20630/mayfair-games-first-edition&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/20630/mayfair-games-first-edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/42682/mayfair-second-english-edition-with-alternate-colo&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/42682/mayfair-second-english-edition-with-alternate-colo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/24859/mayfair-games-third-edition&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/24859/mayfair-games-third-edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/23765/mayfair-games-fourth-edition&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/23765/mayfair-games-fourth-edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24511/simply-catan&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24511/simply-catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17419/catan-3d-collectors-edition&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17419/catan-3d-collectors-edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3972/the-settlers-of-catan-travel-edition&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3972/the-settlers-of-catan-travel-edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T04:53:48.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8565" CreationDate="2012-10-10T05:14:57.517" Score="4" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a monster, similar to a hero, move 2 spaces, execute another action, like attack, or open a door, and move 2 spaces again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T05:30:31.087" Title="Can a monster split its move action?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8564" CreationDate="2012-10-10T05:30:31.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; From p. 8 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent-second-ed/support/DJ01_Rulebook_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Monsters follow the same movement rules as heroes when moving except that monsters cannot suffer fatigue to receive additional movement points.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you're still not convinced, p. 3 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent-second-ed/support/Descent%20Second%20Edition%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; specifically calls out &quot;When a large monster interrupts its movement to perform an action&quot; as part of a question referring to large monster movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T05:30:31.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-10T14:58:38.470" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a good board game for 2 players. We currently have Flux, Killer Bunnies, Settlers of Catan, but these are most fun with 4 to 6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3375" LastEditorUserId="27374" LastEditDate="2020-08-04T12:17:26.640" LastActivityDate="2020-08-04T12:17:26.640" Title="Game for 2 players" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-10-10T15:44:29.853" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8566" CreationDate="2012-10-10T15:40:42.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are into pure strategy (like chess, you know)… You have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess (duh)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gipf project (6 games with similar strategies but not quite the same).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of games by Gigamic, like Quoridor, Quixo, Quarto, …&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A whole lot more of games! Most of strategy games are for 2 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to play on a more hasardeous and/or communication and/or second-guessing games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mr Jack, where one has to find who is the bad guy and the other one tries to make that bad guy escape from the board (and eventually from the table ;-P)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kahuna, where each player creates bridges between islands, each majority wins the island, the player with the most islands win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forbidden Island, a cooperative game for 2-4 players, where a team tries to get all the statues off an Atlantis island before it dives into the abbyss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;War of the Ring, a very complex and long game where the evil and good forces of Middle-Earth fight for the victory. I personnally developped some skills in explaining the rules, it now takes only 2h30 for me to do so. Just saying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even a lot more…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a bunch of games for 2 players, as you can see. I suggest that you precise what kind of game you like, so I can tell you more about a cretain category of 2 players game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T15:40:42.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8042" CreationDate="2012-10-10T19:07:42.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've done a bit of my own research, so I can provide what I've learnt so far. It's worth mentioning that this is not what I've learnt from extensive play, but rather what I've gleaned from comments and articles about the factions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Agency&lt;/strong&gt; - Quite straightforward strength in combat, plus some have &lt;em&gt;Willpower&lt;/em&gt; which offers resistance to being driven insane. Supposedly they're well balanced and a good &quot;support&quot; faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Syndicate&lt;/strong&gt; - Sneaky. Lower play costs allow them to be played early, plus the ability to manipulate other characters (via exhausting and reducing stats) and stories (via switching) make them hard to pin down. Decent at combat but vulnerable to insanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miskatonic U&lt;/strong&gt; - Tons of investigation, plus decent arcana, but pretty awful combat and terror effectiveness. Also has decent deck control (drawing and filtering) and can sometimes manipulate the struggles to their advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu&lt;/strong&gt; - Very powerful combination of combat and terror. The downside is that it's an expensive faction to play so takes a while to get moving. Card destruction is the big theme within the faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hastur&lt;/strong&gt; - Terror (plus lots of non-struggle insanity) and hand manipulation, as well as the ability to prevent effects are the strength of this faction. Weaknesses include the inability to actually destroy other cards, and a shortage of decent characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yog-Sothoth&lt;/strong&gt; - Card filtering and discard pile manipulation, but with some weakness to insanity. No particularly great characters, but they'll keep coming back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shub-Niggurath&lt;/strong&gt; - Acceleration and characters that improve each other when they're all on the board together. Decent combat and terror, but lacking in arcana and investigation and not particularly good at removing opponent's characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully these notes can give a decent starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-10-10T19:07:42.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-11T02:51:55.480" Score="9" ViewCount="1670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Village often with my girl (2 player game only) - it is more a matter of making more points than actually competing (as in blocking the other player). I have not, so far, played the game with more than 2 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what I noticed is that the &quot;easy&quot; way to get points is selling on the market. Can it actually be beaten? I've tried, at the beginning of several games to do something different, like &quot;in this game, I will settle for politics&quot; - or religion, or whatever. At mid-game, no matter what, I have to resort to create and sell some goods to keep up with the points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3376" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T05:24:36.283" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T05:24:36.283" Title="In Village (2011) are the winning strategies really balanced?" Tags="|village|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8571" CreationDate="2012-10-11T06:23:25.563" Score="13" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I apologize for not using the exact names of the cards as I did not play the English version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a gaming session with some friends the following situation arose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player had the character which allows to draw a new card when he remains with no cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We were playing with the expansion pack which contained random effects whenever a stagecoach was activated. The special effect in this round was &quot;every card can be used as a Bang card, and Bang cards can be used as missed&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That player acquired a volcanic pistol, allowing the use of unlimited bang cards in a round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Isn't that an instant win, by being able to eliminate all players, one by one? If not, what rule did we miss?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2321" LastEditorUserId="1866" LastEditDate="2012-10-11T06:51:50.533" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T21:43:37.037" Title="Is there an instant win condition by abusing a loophole in Bang?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8570" CreationDate="2012-10-11T07:33:15.483" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards in question are: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emilianosciarra.net/en/bang/expansions-bang/wild-west-show/cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Showdown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Showdown&lt;/strong&gt; - All cards may be played as they were BANG!. BANG! cards may be played as they were Missed!.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The designer notes what the card should read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actually, the correct text should be that BANG! card must be played as Missed!, otherwise Suzy Lafayette armed with a Volcanic could shoot the whole deck!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the cards &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emilianosciarra.net/en/bang/bang/playing-cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Volcanic&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emilianosciarra.net/en/bang/bang/characters&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Suzy Lafayette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Volcanic&lt;/strong&gt; - (Weapon) Max distance: 1. You may play as many BANG! cards as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suzy Lafayette&lt;/strong&gt; - As soon as she remains with no cards in her hand, she draws a card from the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This response differs from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5569204#5569204&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;publisher&lt;/a&gt;'s answer, or lack there of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Shootout. There are questions about how this interacts with player abilities: Calamity Janet ... Willy the Kid..... Suzy Lafayette. If she has a Volcanic card during a Shootout, she can keep drawing new cards and using them as Bang!s until she kills all the other players, if she wants. Should there be some way to limit these situations??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: About your questions: please consider that unpredictability is a BANG! feature and it is part of his style. We want BANG! to be characterized by two sides: strategy (bluff) and luck. Characters in Wild West Show are powerful, and sometimes the interactions between two of them can be &amp;quot;lethal&amp;quot; for the opponents, but we think this &amp;quot;chance component&amp;quot; is what makes this expansion so crazy and exhilarating! Have fun with BANG!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T07:33:15.483" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2012-10-11T17:20:16.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently played the Civilization Board Game with 3 players and had a similar experience. In our case one of the players was the Soviets (who have the ability to &quot;steal&quot; tech by marching units into other players cities), and also managed to get a wonder allowing them to steal a technology once per turn.  This speeded up the tech victory win, however in fairness all 3 of us were within 4-5 turns of a tech victory by the end of the game anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We came to the conclusion that the tech victory was a bit of a cheap win (much like the tech victory condition in the computer game) because researching tech is something you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to do anyway in order to remain competitive at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In future games we may simply disallow the tech victory (I don't think that the culture victory will take its place as a unlike tech, getting culture points is something that you need to explicitly work on - often at the detriment of city development / research / military), however my suspicion is that this will lengthen the game considerably.  Our game was fairly lengthy (about 3 hours) and so with hindsight it might be that we just weren't being agressive enough with the alternative victory conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Having played a couple more games (included 1v1 games) I've concluded that a tech victory is just a side-effect of being too nice to each other! Charging at each other with traditional armies generally seems to bring games to a close long before anyone is close to a tech victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastEditorUserId="2539" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T09:42:33.917" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T09:42:33.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6349" CreationDate="2012-10-11T22:39:47.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Oracle text always takes priority over any card.  I actually did not notice the difference in the two cards at first.  I thought you were referring to &quot;in play on either side&quot; but it would make no sense to tap something that was not in play.  Instead, you are referring to the cost of tapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, you were required to tap mono artifacts in order to activate them.  This means the cards are actually played exactly the same way.  Pay the mana cost and tap cost (for either the older or newer card), and you can tap a creature, artifact, or land.  The cost was simply updated because mono artifact cards were made obsolete.  When they changed it to only being an artifact, the cost of tapping had to be added so it would be played the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, whenever you have such a question, it is best to use the updated text because it is often more clear based on the current rules; however, if you have the time to access the Gatherer database, you should check the Oracle text because it overrides everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3331" LastActivityDate="2012-10-11T22:39:47.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4435" CreationDate="2012-10-12T19:47:13.533" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answer here is incorrect. All your coppers are gone when you buy the Mint; you spent $11 to buy the $5 Mint card and the remaining $6 is squandered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you still &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; buy a Grand Market if you have +$ from the actions you've played. For example, if you've played 3 Festivals for +$6, then you can buy a Grand Market after you buy the Mint and trash all the Coppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3381" LastActivityDate="2012-10-12T19:47:13.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8579" CreationDate="2012-10-12T21:21:38.137" Score="4" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bifurcation Conduit states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;If you have two or more opponents remaining, choose an additional&#xA;opponent.  For the rest of the turn each part of your machine affects&#xA;both chosen opponents.  Then remove this card from the game.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polarity Stabilizer states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Take the top three cards from the scrap pile.&#xA;Put two into your hand and one into your opponent's hand.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume I am playing with at least two other players and that Bifurcation Conduit has run before Polarity Stabilizer.  &lt;strong&gt;How do I correctly resolve this card interaction?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game currently has me in a situation to draw three cards, put two into my hand, and one into each opponents hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="155" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T23:04:42.243" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T23:04:42.243" Title="How do you resolve Polarity Stabilizer when Bifurcation Conduit has triggered?" Tags="|infernal-contraption|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8581" CreationDate="2012-10-12T22:52:11.287" Score="2" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/96188/nuts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nuts&lt;/a&gt; the rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Drawing Cards&#xA;Whenever you play a card, whether on your turn or out of&#xA;turn, immediately draw a card from the deck.  You should&#xA;always have five cards in your hand.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an Antics card called 'Share Your Nuts' that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Pass one card from your hand to the&#xA;player on your left, chosen at random.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do the hand size rules make the person playing the card draw up to five cards and force the player on the left to discard down to five?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="155" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T22:20:23.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T22:20:23.177" Title="How do the hand size rules interact with Share Your Nuts?" Tags="|nuts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-10-13T03:23:12.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think a definitive answer exists from the designer or publisher, but here is my informed opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first interpretation treats Polarity Stabilizer as you would any other contraption that affects your opponents. You would take the top 3 cards from the scrap pile, put 2 in your hand, then the remaining card to the first opponent. Then you would repeat this process for each remaining opponent (top 3, keep 2, 1 to opponent). This is obviously how you would play &lt;strong&gt;Radiometric Disruptor&lt;/strong&gt; (Opponent scraps a card from their hand). And is probably the way you would play a card like  &lt;strong&gt;Entropic Processor&lt;/strong&gt; (if you have the cards to put cards from your hand into each opponents hand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other possible interpretation is that you take the top 3 cards from the scrap pile, put 2 in your hand, and choose an opponent to receive the remaining card. This interpretation hinges on the &lt;strong&gt;giving the card to your opponent&lt;/strong&gt; part, not being considered a way to affect your opponent and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.privateerpress.com/bodgers/InfernalContraptionRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; example :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;strong&gt;Entropic Processor&lt;/strong&gt; states, &quot;Put one card from your hand into your opponents hand and draw two parts from his parts pile.&quot; ... On the other hand, if you put one card from your hand into your opponent's hand and he doesn't have two cards in his parts pile, &lt;strong&gt;the effect takes place as much as possible.&lt;/strong&gt; If your opponent has one card in his parts pile you get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am personally leaning toward the latter interpretation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-13T15:36:59.427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T15:36:59.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8577" CreationDate="2012-10-13T09:05:26.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without a definitive clarification, I would be tempted to house-rule it as &quot;three&quot; being short-hand for &quot;two plus one for each opponent this affects&quot;. In this case, I would say you should &lt;strong&gt;draw four cards&lt;/strong&gt;, keep two and &lt;strong&gt;give one to each opponent&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I say, this would just be the clarification I would apply without anything more concrete from an authority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T09:05:26.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8578" CreationDate="2012-10-13T11:50:50.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to both. You quoted the answer &lt;strong&gt;You should always have five cards in your hand.&lt;/strong&gt; You would draw a card to bring your hand size back to 5, and your opponent would have to discard a card to bring their hand back down to 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T11:50:50.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8584" CreationDate="2012-10-13T14:29:38.777" Score="14" ViewCount="6008" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the recommendation of a friend, I picked up 7 Wonders, and two other friends and I played our first game a few nights ago.  When one of my friends played &lt;em&gt;Vineyard&lt;/em&gt;, we had a lengthy discussion of what the rules meant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The card is worth 1 coin per brown card &lt;strong&gt;built&lt;/strong&gt; in the player's city AND in the two neighboring cities.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Clarification: The brown cards built on in the neighboring cities on the same turn as the Vineyard are counted.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.  The key discussion is what is meant by built.  In this context, it's ambiguous as to whether &quot;built&quot; is in the past tense or the future tense.  During our first game, we came to the conclusion that it must mean future.  We arrived at this conclusion through the misconception that the players would be paying the Vineyard owner instead of the owner drawing the funds from the central bank.  By the second game, we had forgotten our misconception, and decided that built must be past tense, as there are far too few  resource cards in the second age, and none in the third, to make Vineyard worth while.  We didn't really worry about it that much, since I discarded Vineyard on the last turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what is actually meant?  Do I collect a coin for every brown card I have in play right now, as well as a coin for the brown cards my neighbors have in play at the end of this turn?  Do I disregard existing brown cards, and collect a coin when my neighbors or I play a new brown card?  Or is it everything - do I instantly collect a coin for existing brown cards, as well as a coin for each future brown cards when they're played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-13T14:34:35.543" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T15:35:16.713" Title="What is meant by &quot;built&quot; regarding the Vineyard card?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8583" CreationDate="2012-10-13T14:51:28.970" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get &lt;strong&gt;1 coin per brown card that already exists, including brown cards built by your neighbors in the same round.&lt;/strong&gt; Note that brown resources built into player boards do not count for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not get any coins for brown cards built in future rounds. All Age cards that provide coins provide them immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-13T15:04:36.690" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T15:04:36.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8583" CreationDate="2012-10-13T15:35:16.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get 1 coin per brown card built in your city and in the two neighboring cities, &lt;strong&gt;including&lt;/strong&gt; any built on the same turn as the Vineyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clarification is to remind you to count cards built this turn, which is different than the normal rules, like commerce, which don't make resources built this turn available until the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_WHITE.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; specify that you only count cards, and any resources on the Wonder boards don't count (top page 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clarification: The resources produced by the board are not considered to be cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-13T15:35:16.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8587" CreationDate="2012-10-13T19:38:47.067" Score="14" ViewCount="2036" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came into a situation with a 2-player Small World game, where I was surrounded by an active race with the Diplomatic power, and that player had declared peace with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not attack the active race and there were no other regions available to conquer. What are my options, except for going into decline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3387" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T11:09:09.063" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T01:51:01.620" Title="What happens when you can't conquer regions?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8586" CreationDate="2012-10-13T20:56:12.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the rules, that's it - on a given turn, you either conquer or go into decline, and if you choose to conquer either you just sit there, or you pull all your tokens off the board and start from another edge. Neither option will really get you unstuck, since even if you start over, you won't be able to conquer many territories your first turn, and your opponent will have plenty of time to box you in before you can expand widely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, diplomats are just kind of broken in two-player games. If you get them on the first turn, paired with a race with a decent number of tokens, you can conquer through the center of the board, splitting up what's available to the other player, and likely guarantee victory. If they come up later, it's probably okay, since you're unlikely to be able to cut the board in half without touching your opponent's active race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've had one game like this, and in the future I may just remove diplomat in two-player games, or at least veto it if it comes with one of the races capable of splitting the board like that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T01:51:01.620" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T01:51:01.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-14T22:11:28.033" Score="-1" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to games like Agricola, Puerto Rico, and Settlers of Catan. But a few themes seem to pop up in each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One is the importance of brick/stone/wood for building. Without improvements, your farms might not amount to much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is the need to keep a balance between &quot;income&quot; (as measured in money or food), and victory points. A third is to keep a balance between advancing your own interests, and an eye on blocking threats from others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there is the element that while some commodities are (a little) more valuable than others under &quot;normal&quot; conditions, if &quot;everyone&quot; wants the same &quot;great&quot; commodity (e.g. stone), that becomes less valuable, while an otherwise ok commodity thqt is &quot;neglected&quot; can become &quot;great.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these (and other features) common between the games mentioned (and similar ones)? More to the point, if I learn to play one well (or at least to a certain level of skill), will this give me a head start on learning the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, although the mechanics are different, knowing how to play either Monopoly or Easy Money will give you a leg up on learning the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T00:02:14.280" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T00:02:14.280" Title="Are there common themes in &quot;settlement&quot; games?" Tags="|tactics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-10-16T20:33:58.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8588" CreationDate="2012-10-14T22:59:59.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, those three games play completely differently. Learning how to play well in one game will not translate to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan is a game where you don't trade VP for advancing your economic engine, it is your economic engine. While goods don't have a value per say, certain goods are better than others. This is especially true in the Knights and Cities expansion, where Paper is by far the best commodity. Everyone focusing on paper will not diminish its value, at least until each player has the City improvement that grants a free good when you don't get one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico doesn't follow the value states that you say exist in Agricola. Corn is one of the highest value plantations, because it doesn't require two colonists to produce. It may or may not be valuable to focus on the same goods depending on if you are selling to the Trading House or shipping. As for balancing income and VP, Puerto Rico doesn't follow any sort of balance. In the beginning, VP is rather useless. In the end game, coins are rather useless. So in Puerto Rico, you focus the beginning game on improving your income, and the late game focused on scoring VP. There is very little balance at all, just a determination of when to switch from income to.VP. This is more like Dominion in my opinion, but realizing this and playing Puerto Rico well will not make you a better Dominion player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-14T22:59:59.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8593" CreationDate="2012-10-15T00:22:22.030" Score="8" ViewCount="7094" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what point is a creature's toughness calculated? If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Korozda%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Korozda Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; where I can sacrifice a creature and put X 1/1 token creatures onto the battlefield, where X is the sacrificed creature's toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature that is 4/4 and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; to give it +3/+3 then sacrifice it? Do I get 4 tokens or 7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what if my 4/4 creature was dealt 2 combat damage before I sacrificed it? Do I get 2 or 4 creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, what about counters? If my 4/4 had a +1/+1 do I get 4 or 5 tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T05:33:11.230" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T02:31:08.087" Title="When is a creature's toughness calculated" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8590" CreationDate="2012-10-15T04:29:17.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toughness is continually updated as effects change it. +X/+Y effects like Giant Growth change the toughness from the moment the effect is applied (so, starting right during the spell's resolution). +1/+1 or -1/-1 counters change the toughness from the moment they are placed on the creature. Anything else, as far as I can think of, does not affect the toughness; in particular, damage does not reduce a creature's toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an effect like Korozda Guildmage, when it refers to the toughness of a creature, that is always the current toughness, or if the creature has left the battlefield, the last toughness it had before leaving. The number printed on the card has no special meaning for a permanent in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T06:09:40.670" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T06:09:40.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8590" CreationDate="2012-10-15T05:03:24.207" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point is a creature's toughness calculated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's continually calculated. The real question is when does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Korozda%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Korozda Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;'s ability check the creature's toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Korozda Guildmage's ability checks the creature's toughess as it resolves because it's not needed before then [CR 107.3e]. Since the creature no longer exists at that point, last known information is used [CR 112.7a]. Effectively, that means the total toughness of the creature at the time it was sacrificed is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature that is 4/4 and cast Giant Growth to give it +3/+3 then sacrifice it? Do I get 4 tokens or 7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; increases the toughness of a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what if my 4/4 creature was dealt 2 combat damage before I sacrificed it? Do I get 2 or 4 creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4. It's a 4/4 with 2 damage marked on it. Damage does not reduce toughness. (Well, damage from a source with wither or infect can reduce toughness, but only indirectly, by virtue of giving -1/-1 counters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, what about counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1/+1 counters, -1/-1 counters and any other similar counters affect toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my 4/4 had a +1/+1 do I get 4 or 5 tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5. Effects that modify toughness (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;'s or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glorious%20Anthem&quot;&gt;Glorious Anthem&lt;/a&gt;'s) modify toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-15T05:22:01.143" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T05:22:01.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8588" CreationDate="2012-10-15T17:49:45.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the theme plays into it that much.  It seems to me that the commonalities are more general than that, in that there are techniques that you can use to analyze just about any strategy game.  These includes things like the economics of points gained per action or the trade-off of scoring points versus preventing someone else from scoring points.  They also include things like understanding probability and how to manipulate it to determine how much is it worth to have twice as much chance of X happening, or what the &quot;expected value&quot; of a random action is.  You can tie the theme around these however you want, and they're still the same concepts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, you will likely always need some experience with a game before you can apply these concepts to effectively analyze decisions.  You'll be able to improve at a game faster than someone who doesn't understand these techniques, but you shouldn't expect being an expert at one game to instantly make you good at another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T17:49:45.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8595" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-15T20:23:01.497" Score="5" ViewCount="2500" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot find anywhere in the rules whether or not a player may hold NO destination cards. Is a player obliged to pick up new destination cards when he or she has run out? This is currently causing dispute in my household, so any help is appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3392" LastEditorUserId="1140" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T12:19:23.403" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T12:19:23.403" Title="Ticket to Ride Europe: Drawing destination cards" Tags="|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8595" CreationDate="2012-10-15T20:32:42.197" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Destination tickets are kept secret until the end of the game and the final scores are counted. You can't start the game with no cards, and you can never discard the ones you keep, so there is no way to hold zero destination tickets at any point in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is written on the last page of the Ticket to Ride rules, the last paragraph under &quot;drawing destination tickets&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destination Tickets are kept secret from other players until the Game's final scoring. A player may have any number of Destination Ticket cards during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1813" LastActivityDate="2012-10-15T20:32:42.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8767" CreationDate="2012-10-15T21:08:53.150" Score="5" ViewCount="1128" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's often pointed out that the excellent Reiner Knizia card game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/50/lost-cities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/a&gt;, could &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lost_Cities#Summary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;be played with a standard deck of cards if there were one extra suit&lt;/a&gt;.  Thinking about the simplicity and elegance of the rules made me wonder if there might exist a traditional card game with similar mechanics but just four suits/cities?  (I don't know many traditional card games, so I'm not even sure if there's a broad category that Lost Cities might fall into.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:32:54.687" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:32:54.687" Title="Is there a traditional card game with similar rules to &quot;Lost Cities&quot;?" Tags="|history|lost-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8595" CreationDate="2012-10-16T00:30:39.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer provided by Aether, the rules clearly state that a player must keep a minimum of two destination cards at the beginning of the game, out of the four that they are dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before taking their first turn, players must choose which Destination Tickets they will keep from among those they were initially dealt. Each player must keep a minimum of two tickets although they may keep more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of destination cards dealt is stated earlier:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... shuffle the long routes, and randomly deal one to each player. Put any remaining long routes back in the game box without letting anyone see them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now shuffle the regular Destination Tickets - all short routes with a plain background -, deal three to each player, and place the remainder in a draw pile face down, next to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By now each player should have 4 cards. Since destination cards cannot be discarded, it is not possible for anyone to remain without them at any point in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T00:30:39.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8601" CreationDate="2012-10-16T01:22:44.213" Score="17" ViewCount="25634" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a creature with Persist and I give it &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262835&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Undying until end of turn&lt;/a&gt;. Later this turn, it is put into the graveyard, and I choose for the Persist ability to resolve before the Undying ability. Persist resolves, returning my creature from the graveyard to the battlefield with a -1/-1 counter on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, I can think of three different things that might happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undying returns it to the battlefield with a +1/+1 and a -1/-1, which then cancel out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undying never resolves because the creature can't be returned to the battlefield if it's already there, so it just keeps the -1/-1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Undying returns it to the battlefield as if it was just summoned with no counters on it, and then puts a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that the second ability would 'fizzle' &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6521/can-thraben-heretic-be-used-on-creatures-with-undying&quot;&gt;as explained in this question&lt;/a&gt; because the creature is not longer in the graveyard, making #2 correct, but I'm not completely sure. Could someone explain what happens after my poor death-resistant-battlefield-loving creature is put into the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Undying:&lt;/strong&gt; When this creature dies, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a&#xA;  +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Persist:&lt;/strong&gt; When this creature dies, if it had no -1/-1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a&#xA;  -1/-1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T05:15:21.893" Title="What happens when a creature with Persist AND Undying dies? ('return to battlefield' issues...)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8599" CreationDate="2012-10-16T01:52:27.960" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the creature had neither +1/+1 nor -1/-1 counters on it, both abilities trigger as the creature dies. Since you control both, you place them on the stack at the same time, in the order you desire [CR 603.3b].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever you placed on the stack last will resolve first (Last In, First Out), moving the creature to the battlefield and placing a counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever you placed on the stack first will then resolve. It will be unable to find the card in the graveyard, because cards become new objects when they change zone [CR 400.7]. As such, it will fail to do anything to the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Undying was put on the stack last, you'll get a creature with a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Persist was put on the stack last, you'll get a creature with a -1/-1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature had either a +1/+1 or a -1/-1 counter on it, only one of the abilities will trigger. It will proceed to move the creature to the battlefield and place the appropriate counter on it. If it had a +1/+1, it will come back with a -1/-1, and vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature had both a +1/+1 and a -1/-1 counter on it, neither of the abilities will trigger, so the card will stay in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you wouldn't encounter this situation since +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters cancel themselves out as a SBA [CR 704.5r]. It is possible only in the case of the addition of -1/-1 counters brings the creature to 0 or less toughness, or low enough for the damage marked on it to kill it. In both situations, the creature will go from being on the battlefield with both type of counters, to being in the graveyard without, and neither Undying nor Persist will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at your example. All three of your options are wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#1 and #3 are wrong because Undying can't find the card. It's now a new object on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#2 is wrong because Undying does resolve. It simply doesn't do anything. That said, #2 does accurately describe the final state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fizzle&quot; usually refers to a spell getting moved to the graveyard instead of resolving for not having any valid targets [CR 608.2b]. Since Undying doesn't target, it can't fizzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2019-06-28T05:15:21.893" LastActivityDate="2019-06-28T05:15:21.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8599" CreationDate="2012-10-16T02:00:34.897" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both abilities trigger, and you decide the order that they resolve. If you choose to have &lt;strong&gt;Persist&lt;/strong&gt; resolve first, then when &lt;strong&gt;Undying&lt;/strong&gt; is trying to resolve, it fails to find the creature in the zone that it expects. Undying could normally find the creature that moved from the battlefield to a public zone (the graveyard), bu when Undying triggered it was looking for the Object that got moved to the graveyard where the object no longer is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7d Abilities that trigger when an object moves from one zone to another (for example, &amp;quot;When Rancor is put into a graveyard from the battlefield&amp;quot;) can find the new object that it became in the zone it moved to when the ability triggered, if that zone is a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all, is of course assuming that both abilities triggered (you said that they did). It is even possible for both abilities to not trigger (as &lt;strong&gt;ikegame&lt;/strong&gt; mentions). This could happen for example if your Undying+Persist creature was dealt damage by a source with &lt;strong&gt;Wither&lt;/strong&gt; and it had a +1/+1 counter. State-Based Actions would be checked, and the creature would be sent to the graveyard at the same time that the counters got removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it's put into its owner's graveyard. Regeneration can't replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5r If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are removed from it, where N is the smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Comprehensive Rules give an example for Undying illustrating this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.7. If a state-based action results in a permanent leaving the battlefield at the same time other state-based actions were performed, that permanent’s last known information is derived from the game state before any of those state-based actions were performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; You control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Young Wolf&lt;/a&gt;, a 1/1 creature with undying, and it has a +1/+1 counter on it. A spell puts three -1/-1 counters on Young Wolf. Before state-based actions are performed, Young Wolf has one +1/+1 counter and three -1/-1 counters on it. After state-based actions are performed, Young Wolf is in the graveyard. When it was last on the battlefield, it had a +1/+1 counter on it, so undying will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-16T14:21:11.393" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T14:21:11.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3224" CreationDate="2012-10-16T05:57:49.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't own the Australian Design Group version of the game, and I have yet to find a copy of the rules online in any form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Avalon Hill version of the rules can be found in several locations. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/5017/docs-eiarules-zip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://eia.xnetz.com/rules/eiarules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;eia.xnetz&lt;/a&gt; (or with &lt;a href=&quot;http://eia.xnetz.com/rules/eiarules-with-errata.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Errata integrated&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://games.groups.yahoo.com/group/empires-in-arms/message/661&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;person claims&lt;/a&gt; that the following were changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inf went from $2 to $3, ships from $7 to $10, guard and artillary from $6 to $7...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the ADG version, all corps were uniform, ie, all French corps were 20i3c: In the AH version The french 1st corps is 25i3c, 2-6 are 20i3c, 7-9 are 15i2c and 10-12 are 12i1c. The 4 cav corps in ADG were 7cav each, in AH they are 7 cav for 2, 5 cav for the other 2. Similar corps composition changes were made to most of the countries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guard was added to Spain and GB, though not guard commitment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;New political combinations was greatly expanded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without access to the ADG rules, I cannot confirm or deny these changes exist though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T05:57:49.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12351" CreationDate="2012-10-16T06:10:45.267" Score="6" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the optimal round to pick the &quot;Inviting new imps&quot; action space in a 2-, 3- and 4-player game, respectively?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2957" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T04:21:01.597" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T04:21:01.597" Title="In Dungeon Petz, what is the optimal round to pick the &quot;Inviting new imps&quot; action space?" Tags="|dungeon-petz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8664" CreationDate="2012-10-16T13:32:38.770" Score="6" ViewCount="878" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom is that it takes 26 points to make a game. But authors such as Terence Reese have written compendiums of how they made games with 23-25 points by &quot;outplaying&quot; the defense; tricking a defender into a bad discard, or setting up a complicated squeeze/endplay pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding that the dynamics are something like the following: With 24 points, the chances of making game are about 50-50; with 26 points, 65%-70%; with 28 points, 80%-85% (mostly bad suit breaks, 5-0 or 4-0 will hurt you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do experts like Reese bid &quot;light&quot; because they can beat the above odds? Or did they blunder into contracts &quot;light&quot; and then find a way to pull them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I surprised a partner by making a game (3NT) when we had only 24 HCP points between us. But I had AJT9x in a key suit, opposite her Qx. After losing a trick to the king, we made four tricks in the suit with only 7 HCP, leaving 17 to make five more tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I argued that the JT9 sequence was really &quot;three jacks&quot; and we had 26 HCP de facto, if not de jure. Could it be that experts have a better sense when &quot;24 or &quot;25&quot; points are really more like 26?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T07:08:09.203" Title="In bridge, can &quot;good&quot; players get away with bidding &quot;light&quot;?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2012-10-16T13:56:32.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always done four &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383313&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind Sculpt&lt;/a&gt;s plus four &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArchaeomancer%5d&quot;&gt;Archaeomancer&lt;/a&gt;s, plus four &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCurse%20of%20the%20Bloody%20Tome%5d&quot;&gt;Curse of the Bloody Tome&lt;/a&gt;. So every upkeep they'd mill 8, and then if you play all the Archaeomancers and Mind Sculpts, that's mill 56.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3395" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T16:27:55.273" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:27:55.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8604" CreationDate="2012-10-16T14:18:47.887" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;It takes 26 points to make a game&quot; is clearly a rule of thumb, not a hard rule.  Anyone who has played more than a few hands of Bridge should be able to see that, sometimes, light hands combined with intelligent play make a contract; and, sometimes, a solid point count is brought down by a bad lie of cards or a clever defence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think any of this is at all controversial.  An expert is going to be able to read his/her hand for more than just a bare point count.  As you say, JT9 is worth more &quot;points&quot;, in the right circumstances, than J32, though an absolute beginner may not yet understand why.  An expert is more likely to have the confidence to relish the challenge of trying to win out with a borderline hand.  An expert is more likely to have the arrogance to assume he/she can outplay the opponents, even from a seemingly unfavourable position.  If the expert bids correctly, the opponents may not even realise the cards and the points actually favour them, until it's too late!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd definitely worry slightly about a partner who is &quot;surprised&quot; by 24 HCP making a 3NT contract, I have to say!  It seems like they must still be missing something crucial in their understanding of what causes a Bridge round to be won or lost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T14:18:47.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2012-10-16T15:22:33.493" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to the game is using your card and actions as efficiently as possible. Find what strengths you have in terms of feeding your family and build off that. I find that I always win due to the fact that at the end of the game I have 5 stone huts and 5 children scoring 25 points in itself. Just use your cards at the right time and make sure your getting expansions early in the game. Remember that the more actions you have the more chance of filling your board up and getting a higher score! Anyways good luck to you..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T15:22:33.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8590" CreationDate="2012-10-16T23:23:07.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toughness is calculated whenever State-Based Actions are checked, just before a player receives priority, and whenever else a spell ability asks for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.2. State-based actions are checked throughout the game and are not controlled by any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority&amp;quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions ... This process also occurs during the cleanup step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;208.2a The card may have a characteristic-defining ability that sets its power and/or toughness according to some stated condition. (See rule 604.3.) Such an ability is worded &amp;quot;[This creature's] [power or toughness] is equal to ...&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;[This creature's] power and toughness are each equal to ...&amp;quot; This ability functions everywhere, even outside the game. If the ability needs to use a number that can't be determined, including inside a calculation, use 0 instead of that number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Korozda%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Korozda Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; sacrifices creatures, and puts a number of 1/1 tokens into play based upon the creatures toughness. When the effect resolves, it cannot use the creatures current toughness, because the creature is no longer on the battlefield (and &lt;strong&gt;creatures&lt;/strong&gt; do not exist anywhere except the battlefield, everywhere else they are creature spells or creature cards). So, it uses that objects &lt;strong&gt;Last Known Information&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2g If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only once, when the effect is applied. &lt;strong&gt;If the effect requires information from a specific object&lt;/strong&gt;, including the source of the ability itself or a target that’s become illegal, the effect uses the current information of that object if it’s in the public zone it was expected to be in; &lt;strong&gt;if it’s no longer in that zone&lt;/strong&gt;, or if the effect has moved it from a public zone to a hidden zone, &lt;strong&gt;the effect uses the object’s last known information&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for your individual questions, the toughness is calculated when the effect of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Korozda%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Korozda Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; resolves. At this point, it uses the Last Known Information about the creature. This includes any effects that modify toughness (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; that adds +3/+3 to the Power/Toughness, or counters that add/subtract from the P/T). Damage does not modify toughness, it is only marked on the creature to track lethal damage. So your answers are 7 (Giant Growth adds toughness), 4 (damage does not affect toughness), 5 (+1/+1 counters add toughness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.4c To determine a creature's power and toughness, start with the numbers printed in its lower right corner, then apply any applicable continuous effects. (See rule 613, &amp;quot;Interaction of Continuous Effects.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3c Layer 7c: Effects that modify power and/or toughness (but don't set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value) are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;121.1a A +X/+Y counter on a creature or on a creature card in a zone other than the battlefield, where X and Y are numbers, adds X to that object's power and Y to that object's toughness. Similarly, -X/-Y counters subtract from power and toughness. See rule 613.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.7. Damage dealt to a creature by a source with neither wither nor infect is marked on that creature (see rule 119.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-16T23:23:07.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8610" CreationDate="2012-10-17T06:11:49.373" Score="1" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I somehow block a spell that targets a zone and damages all creatures within it, like Firestorm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T12:26:17.190" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T12:26:17.190" Title="Can I somehow block zone spells?" Tags="|mage-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8609" CreationDate="2012-10-17T06:33:03.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, Walls will block ranged spells.&lt;/strong&gt; From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5513385/RULES/MAGE%20WARS%20RULES.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 17) regarding &lt;strong&gt;Spell Range&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: If there are any walls between your spell caster and the target, the walls may block your spell (see “Walls” on page 21).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot cast a spell or make a ranged attack through a wall that blocks LoS. (The icon that indicates this is a picture of an eye with the red diagonal line through it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example is also listed on page 21 diagramming Line of Sight for a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you count range to your target, you must also check if you have clear line of sight (LoS). Draw an imaginary straight line from the center of your creature’s zone to the center of the target’s zone. LoS is blocked if the line crosses through a zone border that has a wall on it with the blocks LoS trait. Walls do not normally block LoS if the line crosses diagonally through the corner of a wall border, as long as at least one side of that corner does not block LoS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, there is the commonly used spell &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magewars.com/jsite/forum/spellbook-design-and-construction/134-list-of-common-spells-needed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Block&lt;/a&gt;, that allows you to avoid a targeted attack. This doesn't work though, because &lt;strong&gt;Firestorm&lt;/strong&gt; is a Zone Attack and as the &lt;strong&gt;Unavoidable&lt;/strong&gt; attribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block&lt;/strong&gt; - When this creature is attacked, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; reveal Block during the Avoid Attack Step. Block counts as a Defense, and the attack is avoided. Then, destroy Block. If the Attack is &lt;strong&gt;Unavoidable&lt;/strong&gt;, destroy Block without effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Zone Attack or Spell&lt;/strong&gt; - This attack or spell affects all creatures and conjurations in the target zone, without actually targeting them individually. Does not affect walls on the zone’s border. Zone attacks have the Unavoidable trait and make a separate attack against each object in the zone. See “Zone Attacks” on page 27.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 27 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5513385/RULES/MAGE%20WARS%20RULES.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; actually shows the &lt;strong&gt;Firestorm&lt;/strong&gt; spell within its example sidebar, and indicates that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Zone Attacks always target a zone, never a creature or object. Therefore, abilities and traits that allow a target to react when it is the target of an attack do not apply against a Zone Attack. Zone attacks always have the Unavoidable trait, so Defenses have no effect against them. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T05:17:57.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8611" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-17T11:53:18.490" Score="13" ViewCount="1235" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the board game in the picture below?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any article/document about the game would be very appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PKR2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;board game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3399" LastEditorUserId="3399" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T02:43:26.047" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T22:39:25.567" Title="What is the African board game in this picture?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8611" CreationDate="2012-10-17T13:10:47.020" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zamma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ZAMMA&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm seeing the 9 x 9 board there, and two different types of pieces equivalent to black and white.  Also, I'm no expert, but that scene does look a bit North African to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://mlwi.magix.net/bg/zamma.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;strong&gt;&quot;When played in the Sahara, the men are represented by short sticks, whilst the women are pieces of camel dung.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;  That certainly looks like what's going on in the picture, unpleasant though it sounds!  I don't think camel dung meeples will catch on outside Africa...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T22:39:25.567" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T22:39:25.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8615" CreationDate="2012-10-17T15:31:22.530" Score="8" ViewCount="1201" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a two player version of Power Grid we normally get to a point in the game where 2-3 of the Active Auctions have little to no value to add to our grid. Either they power too few cities than what I currently power or cost more resources to power the same number of cities. This creates an issue where only 1 power plant in the active auctions has the possibility of helping a player but if no one buys it then we will never get a new plant in the auction. Sometimes even that 4th plant is not in the long term plan of either player so the auctions get stuck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our normal way of handling this is to agree on a certain number of plants to discard from the game (2 or 3), yanking them from the bottom of the active auctions, then pulling the next 2-3 cards off the top of the draw deck and place them in their proper order int he auction. Usually this will push 2 possibly helpful plants into the active auction and get the purchasing part of the game going again. Do other players do this or have run into this issue with a stalled auction especially in Step 2? Is it possible to buy a power plant you do not want and immediately discard it as your extra plant? What other ways could we handle this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T16:22:32.513" Title="Stalled Active Auction Plants in a 2- person Power Grid game?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8613" CreationDate="2012-10-17T15:50:25.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 3 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Grid Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, in later rounds, no power plant is sold in a round, the players remove the lowest numbered power plant from the market, placing it back in the box, and replace it by drawing a power plant from the draw stack. They then rearrange the market according to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ensures that new power plants are added to the auction if there are no useful ones in play. Also remember, after the &quot;Step 3&quot; tile has been drawn, see rules on page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In phase 5 in following rounds of step 3: remove the smallest numbered power plant from the game and draw a replacement from the draw stack. During the last rounds &#xA;  of the game, it is possible that the draw stack becomes exhausted. The game continues and in each phase 5, the players remove the smallest numbered power plant. It is &#xA;  possible to run out of power plants if this goes on for several rounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the last stage of the game, the Power Plant market turns over more quickly. If you follow these two rules correctly you won't get the market stagnation you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, according to rules you must discard one of the three Power Plants you already have (not the one you just bought) if you buy one while you have three in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T15:50:25.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8613" CreationDate="2012-10-17T16:14:25.863" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played a great number of 2 player games of Power Grid, but I haven't seen the problem you are noting.  Perhaps you are missing out a few of the key rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Rule changes with 2 players&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check the table on page 7 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;the rule book&lt;/a&gt; on how to change things up for different numbers of players.  When playing with 2 players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player may keep 4 power plants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove 8 power plants from the deck after preparing the market.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If nothing is sold&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, in later rounds, no power plant is sold in a round, the players remove the lowest numbered power plant from the market, placing it back in the box, and replace it by&lt;br&gt;&#xA;           drawing a power plant from the draw stack. They then rearrange the market according to the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Remove small plants&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 5: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, at any time during the game, there is a power plant in the actual market with a number equal to or lower than the number of cities any player has, players &#xA;          immediately remove it from the game and replace it with a new card from the draw stack. This rule does not affect power plants owned by players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should increase the turnover of the smallest, most worthless plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;At the start of Step 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To start step 2, remove ONCE the lowest numbered power plant from the game and replace it with a new one from the draw stack, rearranging the market as always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using all these rules, please let me know by comment and I'll see if I can adjust my answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-17T16:22:32.513" LastActivityDate="2012-10-17T16:22:32.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8617" CreationDate="2012-10-17T16:25:45.537" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble deciphering the v1.1 rules in general, but especially whether some experience awards are additive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, are the rewards for attempting the mission and the experience for completing the mission additive? That is, if Jimbo goes on a mission and succeeds, does he get the 50 exp for trying and 100 exp for winning or just the 100 exp for winning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if a character goes on a mission (50 exp) and dies (100 prestige) but the crew wins the mission (100 exp), what is he awarded? 150 exp and 100 prestige? Or just 50 experience and 100 prestige?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, are the bonus awards for driving off / capturing / destroying enemy warships / freighters given out for the ships listed in the mission, or only when they show up for some other reason?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3400" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T20:45:44.917" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T20:45:44.917" Title="Are experience awards additive in Battlestations?" Tags="|battlestations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8616" CreationDate="2012-10-18T04:18:12.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, for RPGs where the rules are the game, it is difficult to get a copy of the rules to answer questions like these. This means that we have to rely on designers answering these questions definitively on various forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are the rewards for attempting the mission and the experience for completing the mission additive?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are additive, The designer &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/ourhero&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jeff Siadek&lt;/a&gt; answers that &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/582439#582439&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;question here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Is the reward of 100 XP for a completed mission in addition to or instead of the 50 XP for an attempted mission?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A character that completes a mission gets 150 experience. 50 for trying and 100 more for succeeding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not found official answers for the remaining two questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a character goes on a mission (50 exp) and dies (100 prestige) but the crew wins the mission (100 exp), what is he awarded?&lt;/strong&gt; Players on BGG have said the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5024890#5024890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;following&lt;/a&gt; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Killed crewmembers do not get experience but they do gain prestige for going out in a heroic manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally, are the bonus awards for driving off / capturing / destroying enemy warships / freighters given out for the ships listed in the mission, or only when they show up for some other reason?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7782748#7782748&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;response&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you don't get any extra xp for caputring/destroying the mission objective, nor extra credits. That's only for ships beyond the scope of the mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If say another ship arrived to assist the target and you destroyed that, then you get the size x 10 exp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T13:20:33.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8619" CreationDate="2012-10-18T04:35:37.390" Score="3" ViewCount="3325" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent targets one of my creatures with a destroy spell, and in response I tap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNephalia%20Smuggler%5d&quot;&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/a&gt; to exile that creature and return it to the battlefield, does the destroy spell fizzle due to its target having vanished? Or is the target considered still valid, since it's still on the battlefield after the effect of Nephalia Smuggler has been resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/69.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4N3uI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nephalia Smuggler&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3402" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T01:50:20.207" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T01:50:20.207" Title="Will using Nephalia Smuggler save a creature targeted by a destruction spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8618" CreationDate="2012-10-18T04:48:55.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spell only has one target, it will be countered on resolution since the creature it was targeting no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a correction. The creature isn't still on the battlefield after the effect of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Smuggler&quot;&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/a&gt; has been resolved. The creature that's there then is a brand new creature with no relation to any creature that was previously on the battlefield. That the old and the new creature were created by the same card is irrelevant. [CR 400.7]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question depends on the exact wording of the &amp;quot;destroy spell&amp;quot;. What happens depends on if the spell targets, and on if it still has legal targets as it would resolve. If it has targets and all of them have become illegal, the spell is countered. Otherwise, the spell continues to resolve, doing as much as it can with its remaining targets. [CR 608.2b]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the spell is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=289216&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Assassin's Strike&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this spell's only target no longer exists when the spell would resolve, Assassin's Strike is countered on resolution. None of its effect occurs, so you don't discard a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the spell is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hex&quot;&gt;Hex&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of its targets no longer exists when the spell would resolve, so one of its targets is illegal. It still has five valid targets, so it isn't countered. It continues to resolve as it normally would, doing as much as possible with the remaining targets. Five creatures are destroyed, but the smuggled creature is not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the spell is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgment&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This spell has no targets, so it resolve normally. It proceeds to destroy every creature on the board, including the smuggled creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referenced rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [None of the exceptions matter here.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal. If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability’s effect for which it is an illegal target can’t perform any actions on that target, make another object or player perform any actions on that target, or make that target perform any actions. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T16:45:07.417" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T16:45:07.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8618" CreationDate="2012-10-18T05:37:05.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the only target of the spell was the creature that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Smuggler&quot;&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/a&gt; exiled, then the spell would be countered on resolution. (&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;fizzle&lt;/em&gt; is now depreciated, and is no longer used within the context of the rules. It used to appear in older versions of the rules for historical reasons, but only in the Glossary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. ... The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature that is on the battlefield after Nephalia Smuggler's ability resolves is a new Object. The spell that was targeting the old creature is not targeting this &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T05:37:05.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8618" CreationDate="2012-10-18T05:50:59.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possibilities. If the opponent's spell had multiple targets, it would resolve but would be unable to affect the creature that was exiled by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Smuggler&quot;&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/a&gt; (it would still have any other effects on the card). If the opponent's spell only had a single target, the creature that was exiled, then the spell would be countered on resolution and would have &lt;strong&gt;no effect&lt;/strong&gt;. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (page 10):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TARGET&lt;/strong&gt; - ... When the spell or ability resolves, it checks the targets to make sure they’re still legal (they’re still there, and they match the requirements stated by the spell or ability). If a target isn’t legal, the spell or ability can’t affect it. If none of the targets are legal, the spell or ability is countered and does nothing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature exiled by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Smuggler&quot;&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/a&gt; left the battlefield and went to a different zone. When it did this, it became a new object, and hence this &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; creature it isn't being targeted by your opponents spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LEAVES THE BATTLEFIELD&lt;/strong&gt; - A permanent leaves the battlefield when it moves from the battlefield zone to any other zone. It might return to a player’s hand from the battlefield, go to a graveyard from the battlefield, or go to some other zone. If a card leaves the battlefield and later returns to the battlefield, it’s like a brand-new card. It doesn’t “remember” anything from the last time it was on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T05:50:59.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-18T16:50:53.380" Score="12" ViewCount="3572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Ascension: Storm of Souls is both a standalone and expansion to Ascension: Chronicle of the Godslayer, is there any reason to buy COTG? SOS adds new mechanics and seems to have better artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3403" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T06:34:19.833" Title="Is there any reason to buy the Ascension base game?" Tags="|deck-building|expansions|ascension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8622" CreationDate="2012-10-18T16:59:23.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not to be Captain Obvious, but you would buy CotG if you want the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quickly glanced at the card list and a few &quot;must-haves&quot; stuck out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enlightened:&lt;/strong&gt; Master Dhartha, Twofold Askara, and Tablet of Time's Dawn (though you might NOT want the possibility of infinitely many turns...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mechana:&lt;/strong&gt; all the constructs in this set are valuable, Burrower Mark II maybe not as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-10-18T17:08:22.843" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T17:08:22.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8628" CreationDate="2012-10-18T18:18:39.667" Score="4" ViewCount="1560" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know the situation. You need something specific: a land, say, or a removal spell, so you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;. You find the thing you're looking for. Hooray! Unfortunately, the other two cards that Ponder shows you are completely useless at this point in the game, so if you put the card you want on top and draw it, you're guaranteeing yourself two dead draws afterwards. On the other hand, if you shuffle, you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have better draws on the upcoming turns, but you leaving it up to randomness whether you draw the card you need right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you do? What factors do you take into account in order to decide the correct play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T04:26:25.047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T04:26:25.047" Title="Ponder: to shuffle or not to shuffle" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8624" CreationDate="2012-10-18T18:26:33.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Factors that could influence your decision:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have cards in hand that you can play for the next few turns?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have other means of shuffling your library?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How valuable is the card you would draw if you didn't shuffle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have other means of obtaining the card you would draw if you shuffled it away?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T18:26:33.637" CommentCount="1" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-10-18T18:26:33.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8624" CreationDate="2012-10-18T18:59:19.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble visualising lots of &quot;dead draws&quot; in a reasonably well constructed deck.  Your deck should have good cards in it!  Things to do with mana!  Ways to shuffle excess lands away!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, let's suppose you need one land to cast the expensive bomb in your hand, and Ponder shows you three lands.  Maybe if you don't cast the bomb you're going to lose?  Well, then, your choice is easy.  Otherwise it all completely depends on how urgent your predicament it is.  Land flood over the next three turns sounds pretty bad, so if your situation isn't actually &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; bad and you can survive a few more turns without the land, you might want to offer your fate up to the will of the gods instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a key concept is: don't get TOO greedy.  Ponder doesn't &lt;em&gt;entitle&lt;/em&gt; you to perfect draws over the next 3 turns.  If the three cards you look at are mediocre, but keep you well in the game, gambling in the hopes of better may not be the smart move.  Fortunately, most Magic players have enough experience of mulliganing to have a &lt;em&gt;reasonable&lt;/em&gt; idea of what cards are keepable and what must realistically be &quot;thrown back&quot;.  I'm not convinced that any special rules apply to Ponder that don't apply to mulligans!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-18T18:59:19.790" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8629" CreationDate="2012-10-18T22:53:48.207" Score="3" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;Necron Deathmarks get to intercept an enemy unit when they deepstrike, deepstriking themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because they appear in the other player's turn, I've heard arguments to say that this means the Deathmarks can fire immediately. The reasoning I've heard is anything from 'Why else would you play death marks', to very special readings of the turn phase in the master rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVicpNHGey4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; is what got me thinking about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should this be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T12:01:48.540" Title="Can Necron Deathmarks shoot in your opponents turn?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8624" CreationDate="2012-10-19T00:57:36.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general, the only time it is worth it to shuffle your deck is if you are looking for a land card.&lt;/strong&gt; When you are looking for removal, a win condition, or more than a single threat card, you are usually better off keeping the cards that Ponder reveals. This question essentially boils down to a probability question. The deciding factors are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How likely are you to draw the specific card you are looking for if you shuffle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How soon do you need to draw the specific card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How likely are you to improve your draw if you shuffle?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have in hand a way to search for the specific card, or to shuffle your library? (I would assume that you didn't, otherwise the question is moot. i.e. If you had another &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt; in hand, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polluted%20Delta&quot;&gt;Polluted Delta&lt;/a&gt;, or some other means to shuffle your library then you should keep the revealed cards.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for the specific probability, the only real controlling factor here is how soon you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to draw the specific card. The gray area here though, is what exactly do you mean by need and dead draw? Are the &amp;quot;dead draws&amp;quot; 1/1 chump blockers, can you survive for 3 turns if you keep this draw? I will make some assumptions about what those dead draws likely are, and run some calculations using the Hypergeometric Distribution function to give a general idea what the best course of action is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Probability&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looking for Land&lt;/strong&gt; and Ponder reveals a Land, and 2 other &amp;quot;useless&amp;quot; cards (high converted mana cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At one extreme, you might have kept a hand of a single land card and hoped that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt; would help you find at least another one. In a 24 land deck, if you choose to shuffle, you have a 44% chance of immediately drawing  the land. After three draws, you only have a 17% of not getting any land, and a 41% chance of getting two or more land. The fourth draw looks even better for shuffling, with a 60% chance of getting 2+ land, and keeping the useless cards only having a 45% chance of 2+ land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That extreme case is not very likely though. Usually, you will mulligan a hand with fewer than 3 land. If instead we examine Turn 3, casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt; to find the 4th land. If you shuffle, you have a 42% chance of immediately drawing a land. The remaining calculations have very similar percentages as the extreme case. Late game, after drawing a quarter of the deck, perhaps you are looking for your 6th land so that you can cast some game winning spell. Obviously, if you have already drawn the &amp;quot;winning&amp;quot; spell, you should probably just keep the cards since Ponder revealed the one land card you were looking for. If you haven't drawn the winning spell, the odds that you don't draw your 6th land by your third draw are only about 18%, which drops to only 10% on the forth draw. Once again shuffling is the best move, because not only is it unlikely that you won't draw your 6th land, you also have an increased chance of drawing your game &amp;quot;winning&amp;quot; spell (about 32%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looking for Removal&lt;/strong&gt; and Ponder reveals removal, and 2 Lands. For one extreme, we will assume Turn 2, two lands drawn, 4x copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swords%20to%20Plowshares&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;StP&lt;/strong&gt;).  If you shuffle, the odds of drawing StP are only 8%:1st draw and 21%:3rd draw. In fact, the odds of drawing removal after shuffling only exceeds 50% on your 8th draw. Clearly, if you need removal any time soon you shouldn't shuffle (Considering you start at 20 life, a 3/x or larger creature will kill you in 7 turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more likely scenario, lets assume you have 8x copies of removal in your deck, it is Turn 4, you have drawn and used one removal spell and are looking one of the remaining 7 (these could be targeted removal, or WoG). In this situation, if you shuffle you have a 14%:1st draw, 25%:2nd draw, 33%:3rd draw, and &amp;gt;55%:5th draw. When you compare these results with the certainty of drawing the removal you need immediately, you are likely better off keeping the cards and the 2 &amp;quot;useless&amp;quot; cards. If you can last +5 turns before you need removal, you &lt;strong&gt;might&lt;/strong&gt; want to shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looking for a Win Condition&lt;/strong&gt; and Ponder reveals the win condition, and 2 Lands. The win condition will be a card that completes a combo, some sort of fattie with evasion, or an instant win card. We will assume that you have drawn enough lands already, so that is why the cards are dead draws. Since it is a rather obvious choice to keep the cards if all you need is one copy of the &amp;quot;win condition&amp;quot;, the chart below will examine the increase/decrease in odds of drawing 2+ copies if you decide to shuffle. Only after you have drawn half your deck, and when 20% of the cards left in the deck are win cards, are the odds equal or better that you have drawn 2+ win cards. When you take into account the fact that keeping the cards ensures you get one of those win cards immediately, you nearly always should keep the cards Ponder reveals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        |  2 |  4 |  6 |  8 |Win Cond&#xA;        +----+----+----+----+--------+&#xA;      50| -2%| -4%| -4%| -3%|&#xA;      40| -2%| -4%| -4%| -2%|&#xA;      30| -2%| -4%| -2%| +3%|&#xA;      20| -3%| -1%| +5%|+12%|&#xA;      10| -1%|+12%|+17%| -- |&#xA; Library|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is that Ponder revealed a single threat, and 2 Lands. What you would really prefer at this point, is any threats in your deck. If you shuffle, you have the possibility of getting fewer dead land draws. In this situation, you are interested in the odds of drawing 1 or fewer lands in the top three cards (2 lands within the top 3 would be the same situation a third of the time). The situations where it would be worth it to shuffle are extremely unlikely, as 60% or more of the deck needs to be land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T00:57:36.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8627" CreationDate="2012-10-19T01:05:00.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That video is rules lawyering at its best(as in worst).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't shoot Death Marks in your opponent's turn.  Something that against the normal mechanics would be spelled out explicitly.  Yes, units may fire the turn they come in from reserve &lt;em&gt;as normal&lt;/em&gt;, but it's still the other players turn.  &lt;em&gt;Normally&lt;/em&gt; a player can only fire their own units on their own turn.  The deep strike rules don't override that; they're written for the 99% of the time where units are coming in on their controlling player's turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't in good faith make the argument that you can shoot Death Marks in your opponents turn.  A seasoned 40k player would know the intent here.  Any time you are jumping between 3 or more disparate rules in this rules system your are stretching the credulity of your argument.  I know that that's not a perfect answer, but the 40k rules are not written to the same precision as some other miniature games.  If someone pulled this argument on me, I'd argue back that I should be able to chose the target, since it's my shooting phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there are effective ways to use Death Marks without resorting to this.  Try combining a unit with a despair Cryptek in a Nightscythe.  The Death Marks allow the abyssal staff to wound on a 2+, and the Nightsythe give them the mobility to drop that template anywhere on the table.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, the Ethereal Interception rule is only situationally useful, but it's not the main draw of the unit anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2012-10-19T12:01:48.540" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T12:01:48.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8631" CreationDate="2012-10-19T03:20:46.923" Score="1" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing with a friend who has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogg%20Sentry&quot;&gt;Mogg Sentry&lt;/a&gt; on the field I then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Champion%20of%20the%20Parish&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vexing%20Devil&quot;&gt;Vexing Devil&lt;/a&gt;.  Does Mogg Sentry become a 5/5 creature until end of turn or is it just a 3/3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2975" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T20:15:23.173" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T20:15:23.173" Title="Does Mogg Sentry gain +2/+2 for each spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2012-10-19T04:32:20.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mogg Sentry becomes a 5/5 until end of turn. Mogg Sentry's ability triggers once for each occurrence of &quot;opponent casts a spell.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences. See also rule 509.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T20:13:24.930" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T20:13:24.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2012-10-19T13:07:18.910" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;With perfect draws, you can &lt;strong&gt;win on the first upkeep of each game&lt;/strong&gt;. Basically take any first-turn-kill deck, add &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeyline%20of%20Anticipation%5d&quot;&gt;Leyline of Anticipation&lt;/a&gt; to allow you to play everything at instant speed, add a card that will force your opponent to draw on the spot, and use non-lands for your mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go with &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5638&quot;&gt;the Helm plan&lt;/a&gt; since it's a two-card combo and blanks cards like Emrakul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example that can kill your opponent before they even get a single draw step, taking advantage of the entire MTG card pool (Vintage-legal):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting hand: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeyline%20of%20Anticipation%5d&quot;&gt;Leyline of Anticipation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeyline%20of%20the%20Void%5d&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlack%20Lotus%5d&quot;&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Ritual%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHelm%20of%20Obedience%5d&quot;&gt;Helm of Obedience&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAncestral%20Recall%5d&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMox%20Sapphire%5d&quot;&gt;Mox Sapphire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the first turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put both your Leylines into play (5 cards in hand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the first upkeep (either player's turn):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Black Lotus, sac it for black mana (4 cards in hand, BBB in your mana pool).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Dark Ritual (3 cards in hand, BBBBB in your mana pool).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Helm of Obedience (2 cards in hand, B in your mana pool).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Helm with X=1, which will exile your opponent's entire library (2 card in hand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast and activate Mox Sapphire (1 card in hand, U in your mana pool).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Ancestral Recall to force your opponent to draw cards, which will win you the game (0 cards in hand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T16:29:22.993" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:29:22.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8630" CreationDate="2012-10-19T20:34:48.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To play a non-land card is to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.11b To play a card means to play that card as a land or to cast that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cast two spells, so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogg%20Sentry&quot;&gt;Mogg Sentry&lt;/a&gt;'s ability triggers twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each resolves to create a continuous effects granting itself +2/+2. As such, Mogg becomes a 5/5 until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-10-19T20:34:48.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-20T20:45:55.527" Score="0" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8527/does-cremate-counter-flashback-scavange-and-their-ilk&quot;&gt;Does Cremate counter flashback, scavange, and their ilk?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThink%20Twice%5d&quot;&gt;Think Twice&lt;/a&gt; for the flash back cost, and I in response use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCremate%5d&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt; to exile it, does the effect of think twice still happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3408" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T17:40:21.733" Title="Magic the gathering question about exiling a flashback card" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2012-10-20T22:17:13.353" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8635" CreationDate="2012-10-20T21:45:28.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCremate%5d&quot;&gt;Cremate&lt;/a&gt; in response to someone casting a card from a graveyard, Cremate won't be able to target the card just cast. By the time the card in the graveyard is cast, it's no longer in the graveyard; it's on the stack, where it's not a valid target for Cremate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T17:40:21.733" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T17:40:21.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8640" CreationDate="2012-10-21T02:07:17.773" Score="13" ViewCount="8816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have fallen quite in love with Ticket to Ride on my iPad, but don't have the physical board game. As I attempt to master the game, I'm finding one difficulty, however- I don't have an exhaustive inventory of the destination cards in particular, nor do I know the odds of drawing any one color after a certain number have already been drawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing, for example, the number of color cards would give me a better handle on the odds of drawing say, a 6th, 7th, or 8th white. As the game progresses, that is the kind of information that would allow me to plan a route. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, knowing all the destinations helps me know the best routes to take to maximize my ability to be able to draw a destination card I've already connected. (Even in the classic game, Chicago, New York, Los Angeles, and&#xA;Calgary, for example, appear to be far more common then, say, St. Louis.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there either a published list of all the destination cards, or else is somebody interested in posting the odds for them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3149" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T02:39:48.097" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T04:37:42.070" Title="Where can I find an exhaustive inventory of cards in Ticket to Ride?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8637" CreationDate="2012-10-21T02:15:34.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; indicates that of the 110 train cards, there are 12 each of 8 different colors, plus 14 wilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T04:52:30.237" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T04:52:30.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8637" CreationDate="2012-10-21T04:51:13.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not intended as such, the various aides at BoardGameGeek.com include full lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/21490/t2r-route-points-xls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;t2r route points.xls&lt;/a&gt; file includes all 30 base tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/23977/ticket-to-ride-usa-1910-ticket-values-and-city-fre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TTR-usa 1910 Ticket Values and City Frequencies.doc&lt;/a&gt; includes all the 1910 tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T04:37:42.070" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T04:37:42.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8637" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:24:36.333" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card distribution for train cars is in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/content/rules_tt/&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, it is 8 colors 12 of each, and 14 locomotive wilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 30 destination tickets, they can be read &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/299000/ticket-to-ride&quot;&gt;here in high resolution&lt;/a&gt; with a BGG account. They are listed here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denver to El Paso (4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kansas City to Houston (5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New York to Atlanta (6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chicago to New Orleans (7), Calgary to Salt Lake City (7)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helena to Los Angeles (8), Duluth to Houston (8), Sault Ste Marie to Nashville (8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Montreal to Atlanta (9), Sault Ste. Marie to Oklahoma City (9), Seattle to Los Angeles (9), Chicago to Santa Fe (9) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duluth to El Paso (10), Toronto to Miami (10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portland to Phoenix(11), Dallas to New York City (11), Denver to Pittsburgh (11), Winnipeg to Little Rock (11)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winnipeg to Houston (12), Boston to Miami (12)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver to Santa Fe (13), Calgary to Phoenix(13), Montreal to New Orleans (13)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles to Chicago (16)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;San Francisco to Atlanta (17), Portland to Nashville (17)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver to Montréal (20), Los Angeles to Miami (20)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles to New York City (21)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle to New York (22)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:24:36.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8641" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:42:47.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Innsmouth Horror is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'arkham-horror'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkham-horror&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:42:47.123" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:42:47.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8642" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:42:47.123" Score="0" Body="Innsmouth Horror is an expansion for Arkham Horror." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:42:47.123" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:42:47.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8643" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:43:32.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Miskatonic Horror is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/arkham-horror&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'arkham-horror'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;arkham-horror&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:43:32.330" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:43:32.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8644" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:43:32.330" Score="0" Body="Miskatonic Horror is an expansion for Arkham Horror." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:43:32.330" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:43:32.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8645" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:50:07.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small World Underground is a standalone expansion to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/small-world&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'small-world'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;small-world&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:50:07.783" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:50:07.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8646" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-21T05:50:07.783" Score="0" Body="Small World Underground is a standalone expansion to Small World." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T05:50:07.783" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T05:50:07.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8650" CreationDate="2012-10-21T13:58:49.297" Score="3" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;General Onimaru's Clockwork Soldier ability prevents players from &lt;strong&gt;moving&lt;/strong&gt; backwards.  Does it also prevent &lt;strong&gt;retreating&lt;/strong&gt; from a &lt;strong&gt;dashing strike&lt;/strong&gt;?  If a player is forced to &lt;strong&gt;retreat&lt;/strong&gt; past the Clockwork Soldier, does the Clockwork Soldier keep advancing and if so, is the player now prevented from &lt;strong&gt;moving&lt;/strong&gt; past it in the opposite direction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T16:55:17.813" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T17:31:06.863" Title="Does General Onimaru's Clockwork Soldier prevent retreats?" Tags="|flash-duel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8649" CreationDate="2012-10-21T14:07:44.013" Score="3" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the character cards in Flash Duel contain what might be considered a main action (e.g. Jaina Stormborne's Charged Shot stipulates a &lt;strong&gt;push&lt;/strong&gt;).  Does using this character ability prevent me from exercising a main action?  The rules state you can play exactly one &quot;main action&quot; on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can Jaina use Charged Shot to &lt;strong&gt;push&lt;/strong&gt; her opponent, who is 3 spaces away, back 2 and then immediately &lt;strong&gt;attack&lt;/strong&gt; with a 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T14:36:10.123" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T16:51:58.690" Title="Do Flash Duel character abilities supplant main actions?" Tags="|flash-duel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8648" CreationDate="2012-10-21T15:35:21.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jaina's Charged Shot ability is used at the start of a round, and doesn't supplant the normal attack during your turn. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/12842/david-sirlin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;designer&lt;/a&gt;, David Sirlin, answered this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8135256#8135256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;question here&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: After using DeGrey's ability Spectral Pull or Push or Jaina's charged Shot, do you still take a normal action for this round or is the special ability your action for this round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Those trigger at the start of your turn, so you do them then you do the rest of your turn. Nothing says it replaces or prevents a combat action, so you can still move or dashing strike or whatever. Using Spectral Pull and then attacking during the same turn is legal and a powerful way to use it. It's especially good in the dragon raid mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that the dragon does have a card that triggers &quot;instead of his main action,&quot; so that ability really does prevent him from doing a main action later in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-21T16:51:58.690" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T16:51:58.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8647" CreationDate="2012-10-21T17:31:06.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, movement is treated the same regardless of how the pawn is moved.&lt;/strong&gt; David Sirlin &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8075792#8075792&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt; this question here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Onimaru's Clockwork soldier state that the opponent cannot move behind the token. Does it also prevents any retreat? Because the way I see it, your opponent has a &amp;quot;wall&amp;quot; that moves toward him 2 case per turn, but the wording of the card implies something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The movement rules are the same across the whole game. By &amp;quot;movement,&amp;quot; that means &amp;quot;the rules for changing the position of your pawn for any reason, when it would reach an obstacle&amp;quot; are the same across the whole game. It doesn't matter if the &amp;quot;movement&amp;quot; is a move, push, dashing strike, retreat, etc. It doesn't matter if the obstacle is a player pawn, the edge of the board, or a clockwork soldier. In all cases, you go as far as you can, then stop when you reach the obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-21T17:31:06.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8651" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:16:43.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne: Catapult is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/carcassonne&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'carcassonne'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T02:16:43.507" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T02:16:43.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8652" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:16:43.507" Score="0" Body="Carcassonne: Catapult is an expansion for Carcassonne." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T02:16:43.507" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T02:16:43.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8653" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:17:26.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne: The River is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/carcassonne&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'carcassonne'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; that introduces a river into the initial set-up. It has been replaced by the distinct &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5854/1749&quot;&gt;River II&lt;/a&gt; expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T17:36:46.607" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T17:36:46.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8654" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-22T02:17:26.080" Score="0" Body="Carcassonne: The River is an expansion for Carcassonne that introduces a river into the initial set-up. It has been replaced by the distinct River II expansion." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T17:37:14.563" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T17:37:14.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8655" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-22T03:10:27.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Empires in Arms is a Napoleonic wargame covering 1805-1815.  Each player takes control of one of 7 countries:  France, Great Britain, Russia, Austria, Prussia, Turkey and Spain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T03:10:27.170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T03:10:27.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8656" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-22T03:10:27.170" Score="0" Body="Empires in Arms is a Napoleonic wargame covering 1805-1815.  Each player takes control of one of 7 countries:  France, Great Britain, Russia, Austria, Prussia, Turkey and Spain." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T03:10:27.170" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T03:10:27.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8657" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-22T03:24:54.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hinterlands, the 7th &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; game, is an expansion introducing 26 new kingdom cards. The unifying theme is cards that do something when bought or gained, such as Ill-Gotten Gains, a treasure that gives all other players a Curse when you gain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Hinterlands rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_396_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:53:36.503" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:53:36.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8658" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-22T03:24:54.920" Score="0" Body="Hinterlands is an expansion for Dominion built around the theme of cards that do something when they are bought or gained." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T23:30:36.633" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T23:30:36.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8659" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-22T04:05:12.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Various cards for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; that were not released as part of a set.  Availability of these cards may be limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T04:05:12.523" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T04:05:12.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8660" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-22T04:05:12.523" Score="0" Body="Various cards for Dominion that were not released as part of a set.  Availability of these cards may be limited." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T04:05:12.523" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T04:05:12.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-22T05:24:10.120" Score="12" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Rivals of Catan a player can be forced to discard buildings.  If a player chooses an Abbey, do they also lose their University (which has a dependency on an Abbey), or do they just lose the Abbey?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3411" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T06:07:12.537" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T06:07:12.537" Title="If a player is forced to discard a card in which another card has a dependency, do they lose both cards?" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8661" CreationDate="2012-10-22T05:51:52.950" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, they only lose the first card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no dependencies, only requirements that must be met in order to play the second card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Page 16 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?RfC-CG-Rules-092710.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Theme Sets introduce cards that have special requirements that must be met before you can play them.  The requirements may vary significantly - such as requiring the trade advantage or requiring that another building must already be in your principality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the card is played and the requirement is satisfied, the requirement has no further effect on play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-10-22T05:51:52.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12332" CreationDate="2012-10-22T12:29:48.420" Score="7" ViewCount="6250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been having a great deal of trouble when it comes to playing campaign mode with our current group.  Initially, we were doing well, and I think most of it had to do with a learning curve for the game on both sides of the table (players and overlord).  We won two games, lost one, then won our Interlude.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the game became impossible.  I think it was a combination of the game getting exponentially tougher and our Overlord actively trying to screw us.  Granted, the game is modeled with an Overlord vs Players dynamic, but this was an unbalancing amount of difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain: We were trying the Act II quest to search for the Dawnblade.  We had to get up to an altar and stand on it and wait for the sunlight to hit it.  The Overlord chose spiders as our open group (because moving past them costs fatigue) and then chose Merriods (since they can immobilize you) and zombies (to help clog up holes on the battlefield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without getting into too much party composition, our first turn went fine with us removing most of the spiders.  But the next turn had him spawning the master spider again, a zombie, and then a Merriod behind us.  Two of us go immobilized, and the other two were scrambling to get to the altar before he stopped us.  But, as you can imagine, the dice were not nice to us at all, the immobilized people went down, and we lost the encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In hindsight, it wasn't a fair fight at all, since there was no good way of us getting to the altar with the abilities we had or the gear we'd managed to get.  He had us beat on every front, and even if we got lucky, he could plug up holes faster than we could kill monsters.  Suffice it to say, he was able to win the next encounter in three turns, because he used the same tactic and rolled to finish the encounter on the first turn he got to the objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in summary, I've found that the game is very heavily weighted against the players in almost every encounter, unless the Overlord is playing to have fun and not playing to win.  If the Overlord plays to win, the players really don't stand much of a chance.  And some encounters seem to require certain skills and tactics to even make them viable.  So, am I missing something that the players should get above monsters?  Or is this just how the game is designed and I need to work with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-22T18:12:33.867" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T18:47:19.433" Title="Are encounters naturally weighted against players and how do we 'fix' it?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8604" CreationDate="2012-10-22T14:11:49.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A true expert will have various resources at their command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Superb declarer play lets them succeed on hands where others might fail, taking advantage of poor defense or advanced plays (say a criss-cross squeeze.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Listening skills are useful. Is partner marked with points, even though they were unable to bid? In that event, one may be bidding on partner's unstated points. You have a weak hand, but your opponents have stopped in a low partscore. In this case partner probably has some values, but had no convenient bid. Note that playing against very weak opponents, this is dangerous, as they may have stopped in a part score despite a mountain of points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A light opener has preemptive value. In third seat, with two passes before you, if you have a weak hand, then so does the 4th seat bidder. Again, this is judgment based. A light opener can confuse your opponents, convincing them to stop below game, or get to the wrong game, or misleading them about the location of high cards. It can do the same things to partner too, but when partner is a passed hand, the cost of that is much lower.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Understanding the true trick-taking value of a distributional hand is important, and something difficult to teach.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minor honors and spot cards, when combined with higher honors often amount to extra tricks by a declarer who can use them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Understand positional play. Thus, if one opponent has opened the bidding with a strong 1NT, and the other shown a weak hand, then you know where the vast majority of the points are. If your points lie above or below their values, then your kings and queens have more or less value, depending on this location. Knowing where the points are makes that opponent easier to endplay.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know your opponents and their system. For example, opponents (especially weak ones) who use negative doubles are often unable to find a penalty double of a pushy bid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding of a hand is inextricably entwined with how you will play it, or it should be. If you can visualize how a hand will play out, then you can also know when to bid aggressively or when to stay silent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, here is a hand I had a few years ago. This hand is really about bidding, about visualizing partner’s hand and how it fits and how it will play with your hand. I’ll ask you to accept our bidding agreements on this hand, because they will help you to visualize partner’s hand. I am NOT trying to convince you to play our system, but only to learn to visualize how a pair of hands will fit based on what you learn from the bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not vulnerable versus vulnerable in a club game at matchpoint scoring, I am sitting South. East deals on my right, and passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;South&#xA;AKT4&#xA;A82&#xA;J842&#xA;84&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a nice 12 point hand. Since we play that 1NT shows 11-13 high card points in a balanced hand, I make that bid. Personally, I love the weak 1NT. It has great preemptive value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner bids 2NT. For us, this shows a hand with focus on the minor suits. I am asked to bid my better minor at this point, so I trot out 3♦. I see 3NT from partner. Our agreement here is that partner has a hand with 5-5 in the minors or longer, with game forcing values, but not slam interest opposite the weak 1NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stop now and visualize partner’s hand. I expect his basic shape to be something like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;xx&#xA;x&#xA;xxxxx&#xA;xxxxx&#xA;&#xA;or&#xA;&#xA;x&#xA;xx&#xA;xxxxx&#xA;xxxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See that we will have no losers in the major suits, and that the hand will play nicely on a crossruff. My top honors in the majors should be the perfect cards to play 5♦. As well, 3NT may not have good play chances, since they will probably lead our weak suit - hearts. I choose to bid 5♦ here, and all pass quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West leads the spade jack, and dummy is exactly as I had visualized. Partner has shown his hand perfectly, and although I feel his willingness to force to game opposite an 11-13 point 1NT is aggressive, I hope to justify his trust in my play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;North&#xA;Q5&#xA;6&#xA;QT763&#xA;AKJ75&#xA;&#xA;South&#xA;AKT4&#xA;A82&#xA;J842&#xA;84&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that 5♦ has good play, while 3NT will probably fail on a heart lead. But can I make 5♦? My major fear is a spade ruff. If the jack is a singleton, I will need to draw trumps as quickly as possible. I win the spade queen in dummy, noting that my spade 10 spot is a winner. (This is a good thing to do, to make mental notes as your cards become winners. Make it a habit, and then you will not need to wonder at the end of a hand if a certain card is high. You will KNOW it is so.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lead a low diamond towards my hand, East playing low. Insert the jack, which loses to the ace. By the way, there was a reason I played it this way. If East has the Ax or Kx or Kxx or Axx in diamonds, I want him to play low on the first trick. I don’t want him to win the first trick and play another spade. Had I led an honor from dummy, East might choose to go up. By playing a low card, East is more likely to play second hand low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In with the diamond ace, West exits with a diamond, to the queen and king on my right. East exits with a heart, won with the ace. I have lost two trump tricks, but now am in full control of the hand. Here are the hands after four tricks have been played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;North&#xA;5&#xA;---&#xA;T76&#xA;AKJ75&#xA;&#xA;South&#xA;AKT&#xA;82&#xA;84&#xA;84&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lead is in the South hand now, so I cash the top three spades, pitching two clubs from dummy along the way. Since trumps are now drawn, the remainder of the trumps are used in cross-ruffing my losers away. Our score of +400 is a tie for top on the hand, several pairs having gone down in 3NT, and some others having stopped in a part score. After all, the two hands are only 12 high card points opposite 12. Points, smoints. Visualize the hands. The complete hands were&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        North&#xA;        Q5&#xA;        6&#xA;        QT763&#xA;        AKJ75&#xA;&#xA;West                East&#xA;J2              98763&#xA;QT973           KJ54&#xA;A5              K9&#xA;Q632                T9&#xA;&#xA;        South&#xA;        AKT4&#xA;        A82&#xA;        J842&#xA;        84&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, West should lead a heart against 3NT, and that contract should go down, while 5♦ is the only game that makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay on your toes in the bidding and in the play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3264" LastEditorDisplayName="user3264" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T14:52:36.780" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T14:52:36.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8670" CreationDate="2012-10-22T20:39:05.507" Score="9" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;A barracks add +2 to the owners Combat score and 2 Trade.&#xA;A scout allows you to effectively block or steal the benefits of an opponent's buildings by standing on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I have a scout on an opponent's barracks what happens with the Combat score bonus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I steal it? (His score:0 Mine:+2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He just loses it? (His score:0 Mine:0)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or nothing, I just get the trade? (His score:+2 Mine:0)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1293" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:37:59.087" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:37:59.087" Title="What is the effect of a scout standing at an enemy barracks?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8666" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:30:42.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan&lt;/a&gt; that adds trade routes and barbarians that try to disrupt it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:48:01.610" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:48:01.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8667" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:30:42.337" Score="0" Body="An expansion to Catan that adds trade routes and barbarians that try to disrupt it." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T03:47:45.240" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T03:47:45.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8668" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:33:14.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A standalone boardgame inspired by the popular &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/munchkin&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'munchkin'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;munchkin&lt;/a&gt; card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two games have similar themes and cards but are not compatible with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:33:14.830" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:33:14.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8669" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:33:14.830" Score="0" Body="A standalone boardgame inspired by the popular Munchkin card game." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:33:14.830" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:33:14.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8665" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:39:01.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Military bonuses can be blockaded, but not stolen. So you get the trade, but &lt;strong&gt;nobody gets the combat advantage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/6011749#6011749&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blockading a Great General (Board Game Geek)&lt;/a&gt;, from the the designer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Military bonuses CAN be blockaded, however, scouts CANNOT steal&#xA;  military bonuses (military bonuses weren't originally icons, and I'm&#xA;  pretty sure that could be game breaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scouts can send home anything they're on top of except wonder&#xA;  abilities and military bonuses (even in another player's outskirts,&#xA;  even on top of a wonder, building, or great person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="2539" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T15:28:00.800" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T15:28:00.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8671" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:41:55.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compatible tile laying boardgames that use a common rule set derived from 4th edition Dungeons and Dragons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/castle-ravenloft&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'castle-ravenloft'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;castle-ravenloft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/wrath-of-ashlardalon&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'wrath-of-ashlardalon'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;wrath-of-ashlardalon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/legend-of-drizzt&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'legend-of-drizzt'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;legend-of-drizzt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:41:55.710" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:41:55.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8672" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T03:41:55.710" Score="0" Body="Compatible tile laying boardgames that use a common rule set derived from 4th edition Dungeons and Dragons." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T03:41:55.710" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T03:41:55.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1526" CreationDate="2012-10-23T05:24:59.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Masquerade is a powerful card, but buying it in a game with Possession is of course a big risk. (Even in a 3p game, if you get a lead, an opponent who Possesses you might have you pass a Province to an opponent who's not doing so well.) If there are Cursing attacks that will make it difficult to assemble the $6 + Potion cost, Masquerade can be worth that risk since it will also help dispose of Curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T05:24:59.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8675" CreationDate="2012-10-23T06:50:55.150" Score="6" ViewCount="44941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to download some set/s of tarot cards in order to print them. This needs to be from a free site. Grayscale cards are also acceptable. It would be great if the images are designed specially for printing on A4, as then I could print sheets and cut them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rpg.stackexchange.com/a/18331/3502&quot;&gt;Motivation of the question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3415" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:45:50.650" LastActivityDate="2022-11-29T16:13:37.883" Title="Where can I get free tarot cards images to print?" Tags="|playing-cards|print-and-play|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2022-12-02T11:13:22.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8674" CreationDate="2012-10-23T11:12:35.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most popular version in the English speaking world is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rider-Waite_tarot_deck&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rider-Waite&lt;/a&gt; Tarot cards. These were published in the early 20th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sacred-texts.com/tarot/pkt/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Pictorial Key to the Tarot&lt;/a&gt; that contains B/W images of the Tarot cards (clicking those opens fair quality scans in color). The book and the images predate U.S. copyright laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These images here are the best &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.goo.ne.jp/valet_de_coupe/e/cb9361a10db2c819ee498cf250f66813/?img=6cf5c9e139a36cb06a5cdd5a7505afde&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;high quality scans&lt;/a&gt; I have found of these old images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T11:12:35.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2012-10-23T14:23:42.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big believer in counting cards I keep rough track of what people have a lot of and what is scarce and not in the game. It expedites trading and makes sure I get the most value for my cards. I win far more than I lose so I figure it works pretty effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3416" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T11:50:03.093" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T11:50:03.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2012-10-23T17:07:33.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a disruption that is too difficult to be useful. It could be counter productive because it diverts attention from other important details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is often obvious when one of your opponents is about to do something. You can infer what cards players have based on the trades they offer, and their reactions to dice rolls. Observing your opponents yields more valuable information than attempting to memorise their cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do track cards when there is a rare resource or a player is about to win. A player with eight points on the board and two army cards, for example. The player may need one ore to buy what could be a third army card, so it's worth keeping track of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do count development cards. It is easy to tell what development cards other players have. There are five victory point cards, for example, and usually players hold on to them for much of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can gather information using deduction: Given the development cards you have, ones that have been played, and how many remain, you can make high fidelity guesses and estimate the probability of pulling out a card you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently two development cards remained in the game and I knew that both were victory point cards, which allowed me to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T03:29:22.480" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T03:29:22.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8679" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T18:54:17.710" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T18:54:17.710" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T18:54:17.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8680" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T18:54:17.710" Score="0" Body="Rail-themed games, including: 18xx-style (tile games), Eurorails-style (crayon games), economic games, etc.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T18:59:59.610" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T18:59:59.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8682" CreationDate="2012-10-23T19:29:07.310" Score="4" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've just started out playing the WoWTCG that I bought recently, and I'm having trouble with one of the rules regarding a keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keyword in question is 'Elusive' and we are just not sure under what conditions this card is actually able to be damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules (and card) state that it can't be attacked, which leads us to believe that it can't be proposed as a defender but can be targeted using abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T20:51:36.710" Title="Elusive cards rule clarification" Tags="|wow-tcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8681" CreationDate="2012-10-23T20:33:36.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wowtcgwiki.org/wiki/Comprehensive_Rules#Glssary&quot;&gt;WoW TCG wiki&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elusive&lt;/strong&gt; - A keyword power that cards can have. It means, &quot;This card can't be proposed as a defender.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T20:51:36.710" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T20:51:36.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8683" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:38:11.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lost Cities (2-player, 30 minutes) is a card game where players choose whether or not to make initial investments in each color and play numbered cards of the same color to try to recoup that investment and even make a profit.. Lost Cities has relatively simple rules and is family friendly. (The manufacturer recommends ages 10 and up, but BGG users say ages 8 and up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T13:15:24.630" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:15:24.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8684" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:38:11.330" Score="0" Body="Lost Cities (2-player, 30 minutes) is a card game where players compete to launch the most profitable explorations by playing colored cards in ascending order." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T21:54:17.710" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T21:54:17.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8685" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:53:36.103" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T21:53:36.103" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T21:53:36.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8686" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:53:36.103" Score="0" Body="Tools refer to objects outside of a game that can help with game play, maintenance, storage, or creation." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T21:54:22.077" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T21:54:22.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8687" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:59:12.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merriam-Webster's dictionary defines &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shuffle&lt;/a&gt; as a verb: &quot;to rearrange to produce a random order.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-12-06T18:22:12.487" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T18:22:12.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8688" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T21:59:12.447" Score="0" Body="Merriam-Webster's dictionary defines 'shuffle' as a verb &quot;to rearrange to produce a random order.&quot;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-12-06T18:22:12.487" LastActivityDate="2019-12-06T18:22:12.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:07:34.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We find the disaster and taxation cards prolong the game unnecessarily. Remove them before play starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1823" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:07:34.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8690" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:12:51.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some examples of trick-taking games are Hearts, Bridge, Euchre, Spades, and Sheepshead. Each game may have a particular variation on the basic trick-taking rules, such as the inclusion of a trump suit (a suit in which all cards are ranked above other suits), and the play options if a player does not have any cards of the suit intially played. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trick_taking_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a nice article on the subject.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:14:16.797" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:14:16.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8691" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:12:51.947" Score="0" Body="Trick-taking games are generally played with (some or all of) a standard deck of playing cards. For one &quot;trick&quot; each player plays a single card, following suit if able, and the highest ranked card wins, taking the trick and keeping it facedown until the end of the round." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:13:22.967" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:13:22.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8692" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:17:00.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prototyped game components are often rough, and intended only to allow the mechanics of the game to be tested, lacking in some of the final look, feel, and polish. This tag is meant for questions about how to effectively prototype a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:22:39.453" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:22:39.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8693" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:17:00.067" Score="0" Body="Prototyping is a step in game development where game components are first built for testing. " OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:22:42.993" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:22:42.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8694" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:26:02.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Played in 3 rounds, the players are presented with a common line of nobility awaiting execution. The point value of each noble varies and some have special abilities. Players use cards in their hand to modify the line (or the play) to attempt to maximize the total score of the nobles whose heads they collect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:26:57.490" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:26:57.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8695" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:26:02.157" Score="0" Body="Guillotine (2-5 players, 30 minutes) is a lighthearted game based on The Terror of the French Revolution. Players fill the role of rival executioners, competing to collect the heads of the most prestigious among the nobles and bourgeoisie." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:26:53.357" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:26:53.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8696" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:43:40.090" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:43:40.090" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:43:40.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8697" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:43:40.090" Score="0" Body="Jenga (2-8 players, 20 minutes) is a game where players take turns remove wooden blocks from a tower. As the game goes one, the tower loses stability. The player who causes the tower to fall loses." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:45:22.977" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:45:22.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8698" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:50:02.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Examples of game mechanics include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;drafting&lt;/strong&gt;, where players take turns making selections from a common pool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;press your luck&lt;/strong&gt;, where players can choose to stop and save their progress, or can try for more at the risk of losing progress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;dice rolling&lt;/strong&gt;, where players use dice to determine outcomes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:51:00.147" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:51:00.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8699" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:50:02.593" Score="0" Body="Mechanics are the way in which a particular game process is carried out. Questions with this tag are game development questions or deal with a comparison of (game-independent) mechanics." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:51:09.007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:51:09.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8700" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:51:14.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copyright laws vary by jurisdiction, so remember to specify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/legal&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'legal'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;legal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T20:49:38.803" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T20:49:38.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8701" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:51:14.730" Score="0" Body="Though legal advice shouldn't be sought on Internet forums, this is for questions regarding the legal issues of copyright as they pertain to board and card games." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:51:56.183" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:51:56.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8702" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:55:18.760" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:55:18.760" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:55:18.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8703" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T22:55:18.760" Score="0" Body="Uno (2-10 players, 30 minutes) is a game played with specialty cards where players take turns playing cards to a central pile, matching color or rank with the top card there in a race to empty their hands." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T22:59:07.187" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T22:59:07.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8704" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T23:03:57.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players choose how to initially place paintings in the museum and set up security cameras. The thief marks his moves on a concealed paper, and can attempt to sabotage the security systems in the process of stealing paintings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T23:28:00.007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T23:28:00.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8705" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T23:03:57.783" Score="0" Body="The Great Museum Caper (2-4 players, 30 minutes) pits 1 player (the thief) against the rest, who cooperate in trying to catch him before he can steal 3 paintings." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T23:29:29.303" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T23:29:29.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8706" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-23T23:10:23.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dark Ages is the largest &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; expansion, adding 35 new kingdom cards in addition to new &quot;bad&quot; cards, which are somewhere between Estates and Curses. Its central theme is trashing, so it includes cards that have abilities that activate when trashed or that interact with the trash in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Dark Ages rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_421_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:54:26.997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:54:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8707" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-23T23:10:23.860" Score="0" Body="Dark Ages is an expansion for Dominion built around the theme of trashing cards." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-23T23:30:22.343" LastActivityDate="2012-10-23T23:30:22.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8710" CreationDate="2012-10-24T04:42:56.473" Score="21" ViewCount="64191" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/306-planeswalkers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;306.5b&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A planeswalker is treated as if its text box included, &amp;quot;This permanent enters the battlefield with a number of loyalty counters on it equal to its printed loyalty number.&amp;quot; This ability creates a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doubling%20Season&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt; states,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubling Season affects cards that &amp;quot;enter the battlefield with&amp;quot; a certain number of counters. Triskelion, for example, would enter the battlefield with six +1/+1 counters on it rather than three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you control Doubling Season, do planeswalkers come into play with twice as many loyalty counters as mentioned on the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does using one of their 'Put X loyalty counters on this permanent: ...' abilities put twice that many loyalty counters on the planeswalker instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3402" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:33:26.220" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T12:23:22.773" Title="Does Doubling Season affect planeswalkers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8708" CreationDate="2012-10-24T04:53:13.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, No&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoubling%20Season%5d&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt; does what its errata says. If a Planeswalker would enter the battlefield with X counters, Doubling Season causes it to enter with 2x the number of counters. Loyalty abilities add counters, but these are a &lt;strong&gt;cost&lt;/strong&gt;, not an effect, so Doubling Season does not affect that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doubling Season affects cards that &amp;quot;enter the battlefield with&amp;quot; a certain number of counters. Triskelion, for example, would enter the battlefield with six +1/+1 counters on it rather than three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens and counters that Doubling Season creates are exact copies of the kind of tokens and counters that were being created in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="32189" LastEditDate="2021-03-24T12:23:22.773" LastActivityDate="2021-03-24T12:23:22.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8708" CreationDate="2012-10-24T14:09:14.883" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;A planeswalker enters the battlefield with double the normal counters, but the counters gained or lost from activating one of its abilities are unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Doubling Season doubles the loyalty counters placed on a planeswalker entering the battlefield.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've correctly identified the relevant rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;306.5b A planeswalker is treated as if its text box included, &amp;quot;This permanent&#xA;enters the battlefield with a number of loyalty counters on it equal&#xA;to its printed loyalty number.&amp;quot; This ability creates a replacement&#xA;effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Doubling Season's Oracle rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10/1/2005: Doubling Season affects cards that &amp;quot;enter the battlefield with&amp;quot; a&#xA;certain number of counters. Triskelion, for example, would enter the&#xA;battlefield with six +1/+1 counters on it rather than three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Doubling Season &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; affect loyalty gain and loss from paying the costs for planeswalker abilities.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The loyalty spent &lt;em&gt;or gained&lt;/em&gt; to activate a loyalty ability is a &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;606.4. The cost to activate a loyalty ability of a permanent is to put on or remove from that permanent a certain number of loyalty counters,&#xA;as shown by the loyalty symbol in the ability's cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game rules distinguish between costs and effects. A cost is a payment you make to perform an action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.1. A cost is an action or payment necessary to take another action or to stop another action from taking place. To pay a cost, a player&#xA;carries out the instructions specified by the spell, ability, or&#xA;effect that contains that cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An effect is the result of that action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.1. An effect is something that happens in the game as a result of a spell or ability. When a spell, activated ability, or triggered&#xA;ability resolves, it may create one or more one-shot or continuous&#xA;effects. Static abilities may create one or more continuous effects.&#xA;Text itself is never an effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken together, these two rules mean that &lt;em&gt;paying a cost is not an effect&lt;/em&gt;. While cards can change costs, Doubling Season's card text specifies &amp;quot;effects,&amp;quot; so loyalty abilities are not impacted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.com/705-cranial-insertion-legends-and-lorwyn.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's confirmation from a level 2 judge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Doubling Season does double the loyalty counters place on a planeswalker by an &lt;em&gt;effect&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just for completeness' sake: effects, however, are effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%2C%20Champion%20of%20Justice&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1: Put a loyalty counter on Gideon, Champion of Justice for each creature target opponent controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has two parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;+1&amp;quot; is a cost and is unaffected by Doubling Season (see above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;Put a loyalty counter...&amp;quot; part is an effect and &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; modified by Doubling Season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your opponent had three creatures and you activate Bad Gideon's +1 ability with a Doubling Season in play, Gideon would gain seven counters: +1 when activating the ability, +6 (+3 doubled) when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, if a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clockspinning&quot;&gt;Clockspinning&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inexorable%20Tide&quot;&gt;Inexorable Tide&lt;/a&gt; puts loyalty counters on a planeswalker, that effect will be doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T17:54:24.517" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T17:54:24.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="267" CreationDate="2012-10-24T14:41:36.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/111165/agricola-biogas-plant-promo-card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biogas plant&lt;/a&gt; major improvement that was a Spiel 2011 promotional card from Lookout games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T15:50:08.000" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:50:08.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6269" CreationDate="2012-10-24T15:15:47.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on timing and what that players are able to do. If you can ensure that the other player takes a begging card if you take 'their sheep' then that is at least a 3 point move (with the exception of &lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/Agricola/Cards/index.php?id=1637&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mendicant&lt;/a&gt;). This is only relevant in a 2 player game where every point you stop your opponent receiving increases your lead by a point.&#xA;There are however numerous situations where it wouldn't help as the first stage actions are very valuable. You'de probably be better denying them reed for family growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:15:47.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5178" CreationDate="2012-10-24T15:31:41.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have answered your own question, then contradicted it. The question you wanted to ask is it easy/sensible to win Agricola without wood. The answer is no. But it is not impossible. With some good occupations and minors you can do it, even easily, but why bother?&#xA;If you can survive without it then fine, work around the wood hog but don't pass up opportunities to pick up a load if it presents itself to you. Including taking SP so you can take 6 sometime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue with wood denial is not so much that it's used for everything but that it's useful through out the game, unlike clay and reed that are far more important at the beginning and stone that is more useful towards the end. Wood gets used for early room and late fences and fills in the gaps around improvements, mostly because it's the cheapest resource it gets used for finer balancing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no it's not impossible, just very tricky and you should be able to do it if your opponent is using every first turn to take 3 wood, you should have a good shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:31:41.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4116" CreationDate="2012-10-24T15:39:02.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I store my cards in the bottom end of the box so the long sides sit on bottom, the short end on the bottom end and the face/back to the side of the box and have made temporary dividers for deck, but you could organize them however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then constructed a wooden frame to hold them all there. I don't have goodies but I have G, WM and fotm all in the base box. The only problem with this solution is the box doesn't quite close flush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T15:39:02.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8716" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:29:05.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Errata is available from Wizards of the Coast in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online Errata &amp;amp; FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/BHH_SurvivalRev_120105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a revised Secrets of Survival booklet&lt;/a&gt; (PDF) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/BHH_TraitorRev_120105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a revised Traitor's Tome booklet&lt;/a&gt; (PDF) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastEditorUserId="435" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T00:45:07.707" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T00:45:07.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8717" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:29:05.563" Score="0" Body="A semi-cooperative board game that involves players investigating a haunted house. As they explore and discover items, they also start to discover strange omens. After enough omens have been discovered, one of fifty scenarios shapes the remainder of the game, often involving one of the characters revealing themselves as a traitor." OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T17:16:02.927" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T17:16:02.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8718" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:48:31.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T16:48:31.740" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T16:48:31.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8719" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-24T16:48:31.740" Score="0" Body="A bluffing game where each player rolls and conceals a set of dice and then bids on the value of their roll." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:39:03.553" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:39:03.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8764" CreationDate="2012-10-24T22:10:25.107" Score="9" ViewCount="2217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules to reduce the luck component is Settlers of Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is one stated &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/549/alternative-for-dice-in-settlers-of-catan&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but I didn't understand this. How does this work? Are there any others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1441" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T19:41:16.313" Title="Are there any alternative rules for Settles of Catan to rely less on luck?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8720" CreationDate="2012-10-24T22:49:29.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess you mean this one &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/551/3329&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/551/3329&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to set up a card deck with one card 2, two 3, three 4, five 6, six 7, five 8, four 9, three 10, two 11, one 12. That's a total of 36 cards. If you use that deck you'll have the same probabilities than adding two dices, but you may use it in a series, discarding every card that comes up. So now you are sure that the probabilities will be the statistical results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side-effect (probably not desired) is that if the deck already showed several 6s, for example, you'll know how that few will be shown until the deck is completely discarded and reshuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T22:49:29.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8722" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-24T23:46:35.243" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T23:46:35.243" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T23:46:35.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8723" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-24T23:46:35.243" Score="0" Body="Stone Age (2-4 players, 60 minutes) is a worker-placement game where players compete to earn the most points by hunting, gathering, making tools, reproducing, gathering resources, trading, and building huts." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:20:05.520" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:20:05.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8724" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-24T23:51:15.907" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-24T23:51:15.907" LastActivityDate="2012-10-24T23:51:15.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8725" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-24T23:51:15.907" Score="0" Body="A stand-alone expansion for Ticket to Ride set in Europe. A bit more complexity is added in the form of train stations and tunnel routes." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:16:38.277" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:16:38.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8726" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-24T23:56:19.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 2-versus-2 variant of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'magic-the-gathering'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt; in which the players on each team share a life total and take turns together, though still with separate decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:41:30.580" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:41:30.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8727" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-24T23:56:19.707" Score="0" Body="A 2-versus-2 variant of Magic: The Gathering in which the players on each team share a life total and take turns together, though still with separate decks." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:16:18.527" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:16:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8728" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:02:31.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;shallow&quot; invasion, near the edge of a framework is classified as a &quot;reduction&quot;, whereas a deeper play is pure &quot;invasion&quot;, although often the difference is determined by how the opponent responds. If she tries to trap and kill, it is an invasion, but if she plays solidly below, it is a reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a proverb: &quot;Invade a moyo one move before it becomes territory.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T19:41:37.797" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:41:37.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8729" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:02:31.213" Score="0" Body="A Go term for playing inside another player's moyo with the intention of living or escaping." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:16:32.223" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:16:32.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8730" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:07:10.253" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:07:10.253" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:07:10.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8731" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:07:10.253" Score="0" Body="Refers to the ability to evaluate whole-board position, usually in regards to Go or Chess." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:16:24.673" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:16:24.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8732" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:28:00.803" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:28:00.803" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:28:00.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8733" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:28:00.803" Score="0" Body="A semi-cooperative simulation of Rome, back when it was still a republic.  Players take on the role of senators, improving their influence, trying to take down other senators, and still keeping the republic together by fending off invaders." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:40:45.113" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:40:45.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8734" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:31:21.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:31:21.893" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:31:21.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8735" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:31:21.893" Score="0" Body="A fast-paced, gem-breaking game that resembles the video game Super Puzzle Fighter 2. Build gems, break them to attack your opponents, use your character's special abilities, and try not to let other players completely fill your play area - but having a nearly-full play area will make your attacks more powerful!" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:41:08.163" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:41:08.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8736" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:34:58.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game supports up to five players (original game) or four players (newer edition), each of whom can have up to four species in play.  Each species is either a predator or an herbivore, and players place representatives of their species on a board whose food sources and hostile terrain elements are in flux.  Species can acquire traits like armor, anti-armor (sharp teeth), marine (able to swim), nocturnal, speed, and others.  Predators need to keep up with their prey -- if the herbivore you're depending on develops speed, you need to as well or you'll need another food source.  If two species want the same resource, it's time to fight it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game mechanics between version 1 and version 2 are rather different from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T00:40:53.370" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T00:40:53.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8737" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:34:58.707" Score="0" Body="A board game where players take the role of competing species, trying to propagate their genome by out-evolving the other players and splitting into multiple species to fill in different ecological niches." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:41:24.593" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:41:24.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8738" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:37:08.063" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:37:08.063" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:37:08.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8739" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:37:08.063" Score="0" Body="A crayon rails game.  Build tracks by drawing on the board with a crayon, and deliver goods to earn money so you can upgrade your engine and build more track." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:41:09.927" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:41:09.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8740" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:39:02.633" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:39:02.633" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:39:02.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8741" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:39:02.633" Score="0" Body="A set-collecting game played with a standard deck of cards. Collect sequences and sets of cards by drawing and discarding one card each turn." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:41:15.263" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:41:15.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8742" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:40:55.547" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:40:55.547" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:40:55.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8743" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:40:55.547" Score="0" Body="A &quot;nomic&quot; card game: make it up as you go along!  Create new cards, new rules, and new ways to win as you play. Start with a small set of cards, and add a new card at any time with the consent of your fellow players." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:06:17.267" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:06:17.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8744" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:44:33.357" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:44:33.357" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:44:33.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8745" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:44:33.357" Score="0" Body="Yahtzee meets worker-placement... in space! Roll your ships (dice), then place them to gain resources, loot alien artifacts, found colonies, and crush your opponents." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:38:42.790" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:38:42.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8746" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:46:44.010" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:46:44.010" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:46:44.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8747" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:46:44.010" Score="0" Body="Questions about timing rules: which effects can be placed when, what time effects resolve, and how this affects play." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:41:04.633" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:41:04.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8748" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:50:13.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Moorish-flavored tile-placing game where tiles are bought with money - and buying with exact change is better. Points are scored at three distinct points in the game, so timing your purchases is useful. For 2-6 players, 60 minutes. Alhambra won the 2003 Spiel des Jahres.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:47:59.817" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:47:59.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8749" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:50:13.833" Score="0" Body="A Moorish-flavored tile-placing game where tiles are bought with money - and buying with exact change is better. Points are scored at three distinct points in the game, so timing your purchases is useful. (2-6 players, 60 minutes)" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:47:40.393" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:47:40.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8750" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:55:28.930" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T00:55:28.930" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T00:55:28.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8751" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T00:55:28.930" Score="0" Body="Caylus is a worker-placement game where architects compete to contribute the most to building a castle and its surrounding town." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:40:58.377" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:40:58.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8752" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:02:06.707" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:02:06.707" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:02:06.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8753" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:02:06.707" Score="0" Body="Glory to Rome is a card game where players try to gain influence by constructing buildings and selling building materials. The game is unstable, and many building combinations are extremely powerful - which is fine, because there are plenty of those explosive combinations!" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:40:36.410" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:40:36.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8754" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:06:24.843" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:06:24.843" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:06:24.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8755" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:06:24.843" Score="0" Body="Le Havre is a worker-placement game set in the French port town, where players build ships, construct industries, and still try to feed their families.  It resembles Agricola, but with more emphasis on industry and somewhat less on gathering food." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:40:27.030" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:40:27.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8756" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:09:22.367" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:09:22.367" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:09:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8757" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:09:22.367" Score="0" Body="Questions about the nature of randomness, whether it comes from cards, dice, tile-draws, or other sources." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:39:35.190" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:39:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8758" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:11:50.057" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:11:50.057" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:11:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8759" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:11:50.057" Score="0" Body="Steam is a rails game where players lay track on a hexagonal board, and run trains to deliver colored goods to cities with matching color. Points are scored depending on the length of the delivery, so convoluted routes will pay better (and require better trains) than straightforward routes." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:41:17.593" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:41:17.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8760" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:18:42.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions about playing games with children.  Includes balancing versus adults, how to teach children specific games (or how to alter specific games to make them easier for children to play), and other issues around how to encourage kids to have fun playing games. &lt;strong&gt;Please also add the game's own tag.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/family-games&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;family-games&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;family-games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T17:54:29.587" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T17:54:29.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8761" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:18:42.153" Score="0" Body="Questions about playing games with children.  Includes balancing versus adults, how to teach children specific games (or how to alter specific games to make them easier for children to play), and other issues around how to encourage kids to have fun playing games. Please also add the game's own tag." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-07-18T17:54:29.587" LastActivityDate="2019-07-18T17:54:29.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8762" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:21:31.293" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:21:31.293" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:21:31.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8763" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:21:31.293" Score="0" Body="Steve Jackson's game of international conspiracies.  Of course the Vatican is being controlled by the Post Office!" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T01:40:57.667" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:40:57.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8720" CreationDate="2012-10-25T01:34:02.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/20038/catan-event-cards&quot;&gt;commercially produced event deck&lt;/a&gt;. When using it, you reveal a card every turn to get a number from 2-12 instead of rolling the dice. A card that reshuffles the deck is mixed in the bottom 5 cards, so the exact composition when the deck gets thin cannot be exactly guessed. (The cards also feature events that affect the game in other minor ways, if you choose to use them that way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other games in the Catan series explore the idea of providing resources or compensation for players who strike out at the dice. Cities &amp;amp; Knights of Catan features an upgrade that gives you a resource of your choice whenever a number that doesn't produce anything for you is rolled. In a similar vein, Settlers of America gives any player Gold tokens who otherwise strikes out on a turn; gold can be later traded for other resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T01:34:02.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7841" CreationDate="2012-10-25T07:55:12.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on how you are drafting. If it's a passing draft you need to look for which cards are more powerful and probably build a synergy with those. But also notice which weaker cards are likely to come back around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really go into specifics as there are so many combinations you named a few there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A baking strategy needs some card power to pull off well &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything encouraging you to early renovation would go well with any of the&#xA;stone house occupations &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Room builders can get ridiculous &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occupations that encourage more occupations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Several Day Labour/Travelling Players bonuses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combinations that probably don't work are Axe and Clay room builders as they are working cross purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider in passing drafts is you can draft for wood cards even if you pass them as they are likely to be played, Church Warden, a bad example would encourage you to draft for plenty of family growth, even late family growth as long as you could ensure five peeps by round 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastEditorUserId="14607" LastEditDate="2019-08-08T16:03:26.873" LastActivityDate="2019-08-08T16:03:26.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="8766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8010" CreationDate="2012-10-25T08:51:46.440" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please take a look at following topics on bgg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/591186/strategies-to-defeat-moloch&quot;&gt;Strategies to defeat Moloch?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Occupy hexes where Moloch would want to place his shooters. You don't even need useful fighter there: sacrificing your module to&#xA;  occupy that nice spot behind Moloch HQ is perfectly reasonable. This&#xA;  will not only save you at least 2 hp, but also make Moloch place his&#xA;  good units in bad positions. Always keep best places shut from the&#xA;  enemy (this applies to fighting every other army as well, they just&#xA;  favor other positions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Continuing previous tip, place some fast (3-initiative at least) guys nearby, but not adjacent to Moloch HQ, and target Moloch shooter&#xA;  spots. Moloch will have to waste turns neutralizing your units before&#xA;  he can safely attack you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If Moloch HQ is in the center, place a shooter directly behind HQ, but in the corner. It will kill shooters and, if there are none,&#xA;  damage HQ.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use meat shields. Put your units between your HQ and Moloch shooters. Sometimes deflecting 2 damage is best use for a unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Move. It isn't easy for Moloch to adjust it's aim since it doesn't have many Move tiles. If Moloch HQ is in the corner, you'll probably&#xA;  have plenty blind spots where HQ-enhanced shooters won't reach you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Play Battle carefully. After each battle you will lose your shielding units, and your HQ and important guys will be unprotected.&#xA;  On the other hand, each time you don't play Battle, you risk losing&#xA;  your perfect setup to bomb.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/625721/strategy-principles&quot;&gt;Strategy principles&lt;/a&gt; - pay attention especially to weaknesses of Moloch. Get advantage of them. And yes, you are correct, speed is the greatest one of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Units to watch for: Bomb, Net Fighter, Push, Cyborg, Hunter Killer&#xA;  Storm Trooper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, try to make Moloch player initiate a battle (or generally, to play offensively):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Never, never, never initiate a battle as Moloch. Never. You will only&#xA;  get the pieces around your HQ killed on your turn, and your opponent&#xA;  can then fill them. Let them battle, and then refill them yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/658766/can-neojungle-beat-a-competent-moloch-player&quot;&gt;Can Neojungle beat a competent Moloch player?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Against Moloch its best to place the NeoJungle HQ in the middle, you&#xA;  can use the HQ's ability without the need of building long supply&#xA;  chains. Put as many units as you can adjacent to Moloch's HQ to&#xA;  prevent its bunkering, also to make the most use of your castling, and&#xA;  as long as the airstrike is in the deck, scatter your units, mix it&#xA;  with Moloch's. You have three netters; place them on the borders to&#xA;  make the airstrike equally bad for your opponent. Use the two&#xA;  Nightshades against the HQ, don't waste it on units. If nothing else,&#xA;  there are plenty of Slicers, buffed up they can do plenty of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handling Air Strike:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;FlameBird:&lt;/strong&gt; I still don't think you can do much against the Air Strike; simply targeting your HQ will always get some good stuff destroyed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Midaga:&lt;/strong&gt; I think you have to learn to stop worrying and love the bomb. There's&#xA;  only one nuke in there, you can anticipate it, it's bad for Moloch&#xA;  too, it creates room on the board for you, you should wish for it.&#xA;  Also, you have the Small Bomb, which is much more useful, as its&#xA;  precision strike lets you do relatively more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/817354/best-counter-armies&quot;&gt;Best Counter-Armies&lt;/a&gt; - one of the users suggest playing Outpost against Moloch. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/557481/more-outpost-help-please&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can read some advice for playing Outpost army.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Versus Moloch, Outpost's HQ can dance to dodge Moloch's augmented&#xA;  ranged shots, while Moloch sits still for Outpost's repeated ranged&#xA;  shots. As long as Moloch's nuke remains unplayed, Outpost can use move&#xA;  and battle tiles liberally, to keep unit density low; that's Outpost's&#xA;  normal game plan anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this one on Neuroshima Hex! Strategy Blog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://neuroshimahexstrategy.blogspot.com/2012/06/moloch-when-fighting.html&quot;&gt;Moloch: Defeating&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have ranged units, try using them to attack Moloch’s base from&#xA;  a different direction then your base. Doing this will ensure that&#xA;  Moloch cannot both address this unit and attack your base at the same&#xA;  time. Also, if the Moloch use a soldier to attack this unit, odds are&#xA;  they will never get a move to turn that soldier onto your base.&#xA;  Remember that moving away from Moloch units will likely make that unit&#xA;  kind of worthless. Also remember that pushing Moloch units can&#xA;  accomplish the same thing. Avoid clustering your units if possible.&#xA;  They have a freakin’ airstrike. Never just leave the Gauss gun pointed&#xA;  on your base. Address it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T01:35:12.840" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T01:35:12.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8597" CreationDate="2012-10-25T10:46:15.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever heard of such card game. To me it's pretty clear that Lost Cities were developed and designed using standard card deck, but I don't suspect it's actually based on some truly similar traditional card game. Maybe the basic idea was to design a 2-player game with simple rules, something a little like Solitaire, but competetive, with  piles shared between the players? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard Lost Cities being described as &lt;em&gt;2 player Solitaire with an extra portion of suspense&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://toucharcade.com/2012/08/14/reiner-knizias-lost-cities-coming-to-the-app-store-courtesy-of-carcassonne-developer-thecodemonkeys/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;. If there was more similar game to Lost Cities, maybe such descriptions would mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this isn't the answer you were looking for, although I can't give you any game title that would have the feel of Lost Cities. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.convivium.org.uk/kgfgi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is the interview with Reiner Knizia in which he mentions origins of Lost Cities. You also may want to take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.convivium.org.uk/kgbgn3.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this interview&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://candidlook.blogspot.com/2009/03/censored-interview-with-reiner-knizia.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It started out as a two-player card game. I then tried to develop it into a larger game that would accommodate between two and four players. In the end, I came to the conclusion that I wanted to leave it as I originally had it [as a two player game]. When I start out with a game, it is usually unclear where I will end up with it. If you build up internal obstacles and say &quot;this has to be a card game&quot; or &quot;this has to be a tile-laying game&quot; then you restrict yourself. I think you need to do the game justice -- you need to let it develop. Lost Cities developed into a two-player game: it is clean, it is pure, it is simple, it is challenging, and it is fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also try checking &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/patience/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Patience category&lt;/a&gt; on pagat.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T10:46:15.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8769" CreationDate="2012-10-25T12:51:45.163" Score="9" ViewCount="2136" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously the smaller pieces are generally easier to get rid of than the larger pieces, but I'd be interested to know which pieces I should aim to get rid of first, and which pieces I should save.  I'm sure this largely depends on the gaps on the playing board, but are there some pieces that go better in the majority of cases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T07:31:04.027" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:58:40.863" Title="Are some pieces better than others in Blokus?" Tags="|blokus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8768" CreationDate="2012-10-25T13:47:47.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;For scoring purposes alone placing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentomino&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pentominoes&lt;/a&gt; first is the optimal approach.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/78KDw.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you place first depends on your strategy.  Sometimes I like to go straight after another player to attempt to block them in.  Y, I, and L are good opening pieces for that.  For a more balanced to the middle approach, I like to open with F or W.  They give lots of corners to build off of and are not immediately threatening to the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I, P, T and X can be difficult to place later in the game, so I like to get them out as soon as possible.  F, U, L, W and Z are all great for cutting other players off, so I like to save them for when I get close to another color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually only 2 of the 4's give me trouble; the straight piece, and the perfect square. I tend to prioritizing placing them over all the smaller pieces and even some of the 5's.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most games what you place becomes highly dependent on what the other players are doing.  Especially in later turns.  You need to give yourself room to grow while simultaneously denying space to your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T16:12:48.593" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:12:48.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6433" CreationDate="2012-10-25T14:43:30.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;it is also easier to go for the longest road when you start in fourth or third. keep that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, it all depends on the board : like if there is one supreme location and players takes it... but that's kind of rare. There are usually 4 honestly good places and then it gets worse, so the advantage of being first is not that good to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3421" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T14:43:30.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8774" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:08:15.217" Score="8" ViewCount="1645" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Arkham Horror, while delayed, can I cast &quot;Find Gate&quot; in Other World?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spell 'Find Gate', reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Movement:&lt;/strong&gt; Cast and exhaust to immediately return to Arkham from an Other World.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I, for example, cast this immediately after being drawn through a gate during the Arkham Encounters phase? This would effectively skip the Other World Encounter that is about to happen this turn, in addition to the one that would happen next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T08:27:54.057" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T08:27:54.057" Title="Can I cast &quot;Find Gate&quot; when delayed in Other World?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1292" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:24:58.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have only the Deluxe set, but one thing that we've done is use multiple stacks to draw from. After shuffling the cards, cut the deck into several stacks. Whenever someone draws, they choose which stack they draw from. That way, if you start to get a run of basic set cards, you can try another pile and possibly get something different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may not actually be making a difference, but it seems like you see more variety of cards that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T15:24:58.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8771" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:31:16.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to cast it during your movement phase. Which is over when you enter the gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T15:31:16.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8771" CreationDate="2012-10-25T15:38:12.923" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spells (and other items) will usually have some casting phase or timing defined on the card that states when they're allowed to be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Find_Gate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Find_Gate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Find Gate&lt;/em&gt; has &lt;strong&gt;Movement:&lt;/strong&gt; on it, so you can only cast &lt;em&gt;Find Gate&lt;/em&gt; during the Movement phase. So if you were drawn through a gate due to an Arkham Encounter that said some thing like 'A Gate and a Monster appear!' you wouldn't have the opportunity to cast &lt;em&gt;Find Gate&lt;/em&gt; before your first Other World encounter. But you would be able to cast it the turn after that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has been resolved as per the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; page 7 under spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Q: Can a delayed investigator in an Other World cast Find Gate?&#xA;&#xA;A: No the only things a player whose investigator is&#xA;delayed in an Other World may do during his Movement&#xA;Phase is stand his investigator marker up and/or trade with&#xA;another investigator in the same Other World area.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This answer previously held links to places where the rules around the Find Gate spells was discussed. Since the final ruling from Fantasy Flight Games i have removed this information and the links.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="10408" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T13:45:31.097" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T13:45:31.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8768" CreationDate="2012-10-25T16:07:35.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most certainly; all pieces are NOT created equal, some pieces are greater than others.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I've found that the 'better' pieces are the ones with more vertices.  The fewer points a piece has, the easier it is for an opponent to fully block all expansion opportunities.  The more points a piece has, the more opportunities you'll have for branching the next piece off of it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Accordingly, I try to play my &quot;low-point&quot; pieces early, and in 'unimportant' locations.  I try to save my &quot;high-point&quot; pieces for when I begin encountering the enemy and expect resistance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To list:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;I = 4  &#xA;P = 5  &#xA;V = 5  &#xA;L = 5  &#xA;N = 6  &#xA;T = 6  &#xA;U = 6  &#xA;Y = 6  &#xA;Z = 6  &#xA;F = 7  &#xA;W = 7  &#xA;X = 8  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, none of that takes into account how easy or difficult a piece can be to play, merely how strong it can be after it's been played.  Additionally, the situation can make a piece much stronger; the long bars are excellent for making a long jump into enemy territory, and if they can be played to block an opponents expansion into that area then they're the perfect piece for the moment.  In general though, the vertex count gives me a good and easy way to rate pieces.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:07:35.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8777" CreationDate="2012-10-25T16:31:15.163" Score="6" ViewCount="28567" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a weak creature with death touch attacks a tougher creature, does my own creature die as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a 2/2 with death touch that attacks a 4/4, the 4/4 will die but what will happen to my 2/2? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T19:43:22.847" Title="If a weak creature with death touch attacks a tougher creature, does my own creature die as well?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8776" CreationDate="2012-10-25T16:36:56.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage to them both happen simultaneously (footnote 1), so the big one receives 2 deathtouch damage, and the little one receives four regular damage. Both of these are lethal damage (footnote 2, 3) to the respective receivers, and they are sent to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be avoided by giving the little guy first strike (consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glissa%2C%20the%20Traitor&quot;&gt;Glissa, the Traitor&lt;/a&gt; or double strike, which will cause the little guy's damage to be dealt first (unless the big guy somehow also gains it.) Other things like protection can mitigate the damage too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should point out that creatures can't attack other creatures in normal combat. You can only declare them as attackers to a player or planeswalker. The defending player (in this case, the player owning the 4/4) can choose to block or not block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cause them to deal damage to each other with the &amp;quot;fights&amp;quot; mechanic (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prey%20Upon&quot;&gt;Prey Upon&lt;/a&gt;, or with spells and abilities (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Livewire%20Lash&quot;&gt;Livewire Lash&lt;/a&gt; comes to mind.) If a creature deals damage to another creature, and the damage-dealing creature has deathtouch, then the receiving creature has lethal damage (causing it to be destroyed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Footnote 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Footnote 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5h If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and it's been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked, that creature is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Footnote 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.6. Damage marked on a creature remains until the cleanup step, even if that permanent stops being a creature. If the total damage marked on a creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed as a state-based action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T16:49:25.970" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T16:49:25.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2012-10-25T17:24:50.313" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely check out &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamearena.com&quot;&gt;BoardGameArena&lt;/a&gt; (aka BGA)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why, you ask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1. Games&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supported games (as of October 2012, each month there is a new game introduced. Even cooler, soon authors of the BGA will allow other member of community to design their own games with BGA Studio!):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; 1. Coloretto&#xA; 2. Kahuna&#xA; 3. Dominion&#xA; 4. Race for the Galaxy&#xA; 5. Can't Stop&#xA; 6. Stone Age&#xA; 7. Puerto Rico&#xA; 8. Amyitis&#xA; 9. Haggis&#xA; 10. Gosu&#xA; 11. Tobago&#xA; 12. Uncle Chestnut's Table Gype&#xA; 13. Troyes&#xA; 14. Diam's&#xA; 15. Hawaii&#xA; 16. Dragonheart&#xA; 17. Saboteur&#xA; 18. China Gold&#xA; 19. In The Year of the Dragon&#xA; 20. Color Pop&#xA; 21. Caylus&#xA; 22. Seasons&#xA; 23. United Square&#xA; 24. Gyges&#xA; 25. The Boss&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2. Technology - web based&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole thing is web based, no Flash, just HTML/CSS/JavaScript/AJAX/PHP. I can even play games on BGA from my Android device!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3. Live play&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's all &quot;live&quot; play as you described it. There is time limit that each player has. After going over that time player might be kicked out of the game. This gives him bad reputation. You can always see how often other players leave the game (frustrating) or take too much time to think about their moves. You can give someone &lt;code&gt;+1&lt;/code&gt; reputaion or &lt;code&gt;-1&lt;/code&gt; if you don't recommend playing with that person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;4. Asynchronous play&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you like, in uncommon situations you might want to host a game without a time limit, and it's also possible (this way you can play a game for a week). So that's for asynchronous play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;5. Tables&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for tables - the whole system is build around setting a table, players joining it, and accepting table rules. You can join table and be a spectator. You can replay game that took place at certain table and view it from player perspective of your choosing. Great feature for learning what mistakes you made and improving your skills. You can as well watch games between best players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;6. Community&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You asked about active community - oh yes. BGA is being constantly translated by users to 24 languages (including in-game text, instructions and the site itself). I myself did translate a few lines to my native language and improved what already has been translated. Anyone can do it! How about if you play with someone not speaking English or your language? You got translate button next to each sentence they write in the chat - it takes their words directly to google translate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reputation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As i said earlier, there is a reputation system. Something you might be familiar from StackExchange. Works great, and what's important - most players are nice to each other. Want to try a new game? just ask before playing if your opponent is willing to help you get a better understanding of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Feedback&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feedback from site administrators is also great. Users are reporting found bugs and they are giving suggestion how to improve gameplay or site's interface. That's what BGA Forum is for. I myself have reported bug found in Saboteur, and it got fixed not long after that. You can vote for games to be introduced to the platform. Do you know game called Haggis? You can play with Sean Ross (designer of Haggis) on BGA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;7. Ease of use&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you have to find out for yourself. And remember that there is a good chance the site is (at least partially) already translated to your language. And if not - you can help make it so! I found BGA extremely easy to use and very much centered on great gamimg experience. Need help? Go to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.doc.boardgamearena.com/&quot;&gt;BGA Help section&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;8. Authors&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what authors say about themselves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First, we should say that we are gamers. Real, complete boardgames addicts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We designed Board Game Arena for players who can't play for real&#xA;  because of time, geographic or social constraints. We would like to&#xA;  provide a new game experience with the best of two worlds: video games&#xA;  and board games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although we aim to provide high quality online games, we are still&#xA;  convinced that the best way to enjoy board games is around a &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;  table with friends. This is one of the reason we strongly recommend&#xA;  you to buy physical copies of the games you discover on BGA. The other&#xA;  reason is simple to understand: each game sale is also a revenue for&#xA;  an author and an editor (... we've come full circle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:24:50.313" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-10-25T17:24:50.313" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8779" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T17:27:10.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player starts with identical pools of pieces ranging in size from one square up to 5 squares joined together. They take turns placing pieces on the board, but must play so the new pieces touches previously played pieces of the same color diagonally only. I.e. a new red piece must be played diagonally touching an old red piece. It cannot share an edge with other red pieces, but may share an edge with pieces of other colors. The last player to be able to place a piece wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:29:26.557" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:29:26.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8780" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T17:27:10.107" Score="0" Body="A geometric game (2-4 players, 20 minutes) where players attempt to place as many &quot;polyomino&quot; pieces as possible under some rule constraints. The last player to be able to take a turn wins." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:29:22.643" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:29:22.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8781" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T17:36:59.877" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:36:59.877" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:36:59.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8782" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T17:36:59.877" Score="0" Body="A game (2-4 players, 30 minutes) geared toward children in which players race to the Candy Castle by drawing color cards to see how far they can move. Often cited as an example of a luck-based game with no strategic element." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T17:38:32.490" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:38:32.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5386" CreationDate="2012-10-25T17:37:24.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a single card without a screen by having two orientations for it, like the &quot;A&quot; and &quot;B&quot; starting-city cards in 7 Wonders or the dual cards in American Megafauna.  You play the card face down and then turn it over (being consistent about direction of turn!); whichever choice is &quot;up&quot; (toward the other player) is the one you chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T17:37:24.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8785" CreationDate="2012-10-25T18:28:46.550" Score="27" ViewCount="14561" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened in one of the Monopoly games I had a while ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a 3-player game. Two players were in prison when the incident occurred. The third player (let's call him Joe) landed on the unowned property in his turn. This is what he said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I don't want to buy it for the base price. Therefore, the property should go to an auction. I'm willing to bid $1 for this property. No-one else can bid, since both of you are in prison, so - I won the auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this legal in the game of Monopoly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T19:25:49.640" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T04:46:35.547" Title="Is it legal to buy property for $1 in Monopoly when other players are in prison?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8784" CreationDate="2012-10-25T18:33:49.557" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm#buyingproperty&quot;&gt;Anyone can bid in an auction&lt;/a&gt;, including the one who declined the option to buy it at the printed price.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot;&gt;more official rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From other forums I have visited, it seems as though most people do not play by the rules, the entire rules, and nothing but the rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T18:38:50.547" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T18:38:50.547" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1316" CreationDate="2012-10-25T18:38:16.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'm sure this isn't the answer you're looking for, my answer is simple: &lt;strong&gt;don't use a card shuffler&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, card shufflers tend to shred whatever cards they're used to shuffle over the course of far too few (not more than a couple dozen) shuffles - I watched several early Magic players ruin cards on them, and Magic cards are actually substantially sturdier than many other games' cards.  Casinos can generally get away with using automatic shufflers (and note that the shufflers casinos have access to are much higher-quality than anything you're likely to find at any reasonable price) because they have little need for a deck of cards to last more than a couple of hours, but I'd strongly disrecommend them for any game you want to play for more than a handful of sessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T18:38:16.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8931" CreationDate="2012-10-25T19:13:05.397" Score="5" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played enough &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt; (another co-operative game with varying player abilities) to know that some characters' abilities are more useful than others, or at least lead to a higher probability of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only played &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/71671/yggdrasil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yggdrasil&lt;/a&gt; a couple of times, but I already wonder if some characters are more likely to win than others. Abilities like being allowed to re-roll dice (Tyr) or +1 to all combat (Thor) seem more useful than, for instance, the ability that lets you use the same action more than once in a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this fair? &lt;strong&gt;Are some characters' abilities demonstrably better than others?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; The abilities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Odin&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Takes two Enemy cards from the stack instead of one, chooses which one he wants to play and puts the other one back on or under the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Has a permanent +1 bonus for combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frey&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can perform 4 actions during his turn (instead of 3), but they still have to be performed in different worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Heimdall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can take 4 counters instead of 3 when he looks for souls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tyr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can roll the die twice and choose one of the results in &#xA;  any situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freyja&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can perform 2 of her 3 actions in the same world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:27:18.653" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:27:18.653" Title="In Yggdrasil, which character abilities are most useful/effective?" Tags="|yggdrasil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8788" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-25T19:38:32.777" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T19:38:32.777" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T19:38:32.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8789" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-25T19:38:32.777" Score="0" Body="A co-operative board game in which the players are Odin, Thor and other gods of the Norse pantheon trying to defend Yggdrasil (the world-tree) from the likes of Loki, Nidhogg and Fenrir." OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T19:40:02.653" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T19:40:02.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2012-10-25T19:42:51.803" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple solution not so far mentioned:  Allow takebacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't always help completely, but it often helps a lot, and is the approach written into the official rules of &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/mageknight/&quot;&gt;Mage Knight&lt;/a&gt;.  Simply allow players to retract their moves so long as no information point has passed and encourage them to play out their action rather than engage in an extended internal debate, and things will often go better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3423" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T19:42:51.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8776" CreationDate="2012-10-25T19:43:22.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It dies. There's no is difference between dying from lots of damage and dying from damage from a source with deathtouch. If a 20/2 and a 4/4 would mutually kill each other, so would a 2/2 with deathtouch and a 4/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because all combat damage is dealt simultaneously [CR 510.2], and because the State-Based Actions that cause both kinds of deaths [CR 704.5g &amp;amp; h] happen simultaneously [CR 704.3].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T19:43:22.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:14:12.840" Score="7" ViewCount="26909" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tamiyo%2C%20the%20Moon%20Sage&quot;&gt;Tamiyo, the Moon Sage&lt;/a&gt;. Can I use the -8 ability even though she only has 4 loyalty? I understand it would kill her. Or would I have to get 8 loyalty first with the +1 ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T22:28:48.987" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T13:37:25.813" Title="Can you use a planeswalker ability even if the planeswaker doesn't have enough loyalty?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8792" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:42:54.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first - planeswalkers don't have &quot;life&quot;, they have &quot;loyalty counters&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on the side of the table you're sitting on), you can't play an ability with a negative loyalty cost unless the planeswalker has at least that many loyalty counters on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/rules/planeswalkers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for this and other official rules for planeswalkers in Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:42:54.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:45:39.570" Score="0" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steel%20Hellkite&quot;&gt;Steel Hellkite&lt;/a&gt; say any nonland permanent with  converted mana cost X gets destroyed if I deal combat damage this turn. The second ruling states     &amp;quot;It doesn't matter who controlled those permanents at the time Steel Hellkite dealt combat damage, or if those permanents were even on the battlefield at that time.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean if I make the X cost 2/2, all my opponent's 2/2 cards, even in his library are destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3422" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T20:47:42.843" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T21:13:43.210" Title="Does Steel Hellkite destroy cards in my opponent's library and hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8792" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:49:05.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20121001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizard's wording&lt;/a&gt; on the matter is thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;606.5. A loyalty ability with a negative loyalty cost can't be activated unless the permanent has at least that many loyalty counters on it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't specify how those counters get there. It could be through +X abilities, proliferate, or even cool things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doubling%20Season&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt;. But they must exist on the planeswalker in order to pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T20:49:05.603" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8795" CreationDate="2012-10-25T20:49:24.077" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key word here is &quot;permanent&quot;, which in the game of Magic essentially means &quot;a card or token that's on the battlefield&quot;.  Cards in someone's library are never counted as being &quot;permanents&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTG Comprehensive Rules, 110.1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains&#xA;  on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent&#xA;  as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it's&#xA;  moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that &quot;converted mana cost&quot; has nothing to do with being a 2/2 creature.  There are quite a number of things that cost 2 mana that are also 2/2 creatures, but not all 2/2 creatures &quot;have a converted mana cost of 2&quot;, by any means!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-25T21:13:43.210" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T21:13:43.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-25T21:52:53.167" Score="4" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually I just troll my FLGS to see what new has popped up and that works for me.  However, right now I have a pressing need to figure out what games have been recently released, and which will be released very soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I can (and have done) some Google searches to try to figure this out.  I'm not looking for answers with barebones information like that.  What I'd really like is to hear from people who have been keeping a better eye on game release cycles for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What sites or sources of material have you found to be truly reliable?&lt;/strong&gt;  I'm particularly interested in shorter lists of popular hobby games.  I don't have a  need to hear about new Monopoly expansions or tracking down every Indy game release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T06:46:33.947" Title="Where can I find the most reliable information on upcoming boardgame releases?" Tags="|reference|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8798" CreationDate="2012-10-25T22:28:59.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boardgamegeek has &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/gonecardboard?releasestatus=released&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a section&lt;/a&gt; where you can look at games released within the last 1/3/6 months,  as well as unreleased games based on their expected release.  It then lets you sort these by number of people with it on their wishlist, which should give you an idea of how popular they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T22:28:59.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8246" CreationDate="2012-10-25T23:03:08.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so I did a little research about the game. Here are the results. Hope this helps. Sorry about the long post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Simple online Flash version - no original artwork&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weebly.com/uploads/2/5/6/4/2564727/somniumcafe.swf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; you can play simple Flash version against AI, but I guess that's not really what you are looking for. However, If you get your hands on 8 suited card deck (for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://fatpackcards.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.8suits.com/Alternate.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). You can even make your own 8 suits deck combining standard card deck and jumbo version with the identical back. Just an idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Games with similiar mechanics&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a game with similiar feel, user called Ooops mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/summary/thing/25/page/3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on BGG&lt;/a&gt; that it reminds him of the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41/cant-stop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Can't Stop&lt;/a&gt; (you can try the game online on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamearena.com/#!gamepanel?game=cantstop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGArena&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The developers have even designed their own card game from scratch, (...). Called Somnium, it features amazing art and&#xA;a push-your-luck gameplay in the vein of &amp;quot;Can't stop&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Original artwork&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked through &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.civfanatics.com/showthread.php?t=310678&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forum discussion about the cards artwork in Somnium&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User Psychic_Llamas said that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the artist for the somnium cards is actually using the art for a deck&#xA;of Tarot cards. she is planning on releasing the deck in 2010 i&#xA;believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same discussion you can find a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.civfanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=210186&amp;amp;d=1239246477&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZIP file with JPEG Cards&lt;/a&gt; (the graphics are small unfortunately, &lt;code&gt;160&lt;/code&gt;x&lt;code&gt;240&lt;/code&gt;px) from the FFH2, with &amp;quot;numbering&amp;quot;. You can also find there a &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.civfanatics.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=224397&amp;amp;d=1250153731&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF file with card graphics&lt;/a&gt; (low quality). I guess you could print those and glue them on cards from one or two standard decks with the identical back. Or you could glue backs as well. On the other hand, you don't need to glue them, you could simply use card sleeves. Many options here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I don't know how much of the original art is available online, but you definitely should have a look at both artist websites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shadowscapes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stephanie Pui-Mun Law&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shadowscapes.com/Tarot/cardsmain.php?suit=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tarot section&lt;/a&gt;?) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyartfanatics.com/stephanie-pui-mun-law.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some other link&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jaestudio.com/index2.php#/home/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jason Engle's Gallery&lt;/a&gt; (probably in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jaestudio.com/index2.php#/rgallery1/1/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illustration&lt;/a&gt;?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As game designer stated in the mentioned forum discussion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few pics from Jason Engle in there. But most of them are&#xA;from the amazing Stephanie Pui-Law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are in much better quality, however they don't have Somnium numbering and game-relevant info, frames etc. You would need to do that yourself, apply it on the artwork, and then back to the printing aptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Purchase the deck&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can also find on the Stephanie Pui-Mun Law website is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shadowscapes.com/Tarot/purchasedeck.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;information about buying Tarot deck in question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I would strongly suggest to look here first, as it is the best answer to your question I can get. &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/0738715794&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can buy this Tarot deck on Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess  you could buy a deck and glue necessary numberings on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;About the game&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't answer your question, but can give some insight about the game for those users who know nothing about it (as did I until I saw game's artwork in your post).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Credits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game Designer: Derek &amp;quot;Kael&amp;quot; Paxton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original programmer: Stéphane &amp;quot;Sto&amp;quot; Nadry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Art: Stephanie Pui-Mun Law and Jason Engle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Brief game explanation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Borrowed from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tarotforum.net/archive/index.php/t-147004.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tarotforum.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a popular mod for the fourth installation of the Civilization game&#xA;series, Fall From Heaven II, there is a funny on-the-side minigame,&#xA;Somnium, which is played with a deck of 54 cards; 3-7 in ten suits&#xA;(Angels, Devils, Pentacles, Staves, Suns, Moons, Towers, Dragons,&#xA;Swords and Cups) as well as three &amp;quot;Fool&amp;quot; cards and a &amp;quot;Death&amp;quot; card. The&#xA;objective of the game is to gather cards so that your set of&#xA;highest-of-each-suit sum beats that of your opponent, and you and your&#xA;opponent each takes one turn at a time at drawing cards; You turn one&#xA;card at a time and can &amp;quot;bank&amp;quot; the cards at any time, but if you hit&#xA;the &amp;quot;Death&amp;quot; card or turn up two of the same suit, all drawn cards are&#xA;discarded. The &amp;quot;Fool&amp;quot; cards allow you to steal a card from the&#xA;opponent. o You can win a minor diplomacy bonus towards leaders by&#xA;besting them in a tournament game, but will suffer a likewise relation&#xA;penalty by losing such a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Origins&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.designer-notes.com/?cat=5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an interview&lt;/a&gt; with the game designer, Derek &amp;quot;Kael&amp;quot; Paxton:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Soren&lt;/strong&gt;: I enjoyed trying out Somnium, the card-based, diplomatic&#xA;mini-game you recently added. Because the game encourages thinking&#xA;about probability, I would like to try a version of it where all drawn&#xA;cards are shown, including the ones underneath the top “banked” cards.&#xA;Considering that humans are so bad at estimating probability, I don’t&#xA;think that revealing more information would hurt the game. (To mix&#xA;things up, you could also remove five randoms cards each game.) Why&#xA;did you decide to build Somnium, and how was it designed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Derek&lt;/strong&gt;: Fall is a huge mixture of options that tie together in a&#xA;variety of ways.  I wanted Somnium to be the opposite, only one&#xA;decision, but a lot of complexity in it.  I didn’t want there to be a&#xA;right or wrong answer but instead to simplify the risk/reward mechanic&#xA;down to one yes-or-no choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about showing the “banked” cards but, in the end, it got cut&#xA;because I wanted the interface to stay simple, and I wanted the player&#xA;to be running off of instinct and laboring over the choice.  If we let&#xA;all the banked cards show, the player who drew the 3 of swords could&#xA;see all the other swords cards banked and would know that he should&#xA;draw again.  I wanted to avoid that certainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why it was designed, we like doing things no one else has done,&#xA;things people don’t expect from modders.  Functionally, it offers a&#xA;nice break in long games if you want to jump in and play a few games&#xA;against the AI or play while your waiting for other players in a&#xA;multiplayer game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-25T23:22:16.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8801" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:39:03.520" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T00:39:03.520" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T00:39:03.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8802" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:39:03.520" Score="0" Body="Dungeonquest is a character-based game where players explore a cave by laying down tiles, and try to escape with as much treasure as possible." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:25:55.340" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:25:55.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8803" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:47:30.013" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T00:47:30.013" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T00:47:30.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8804" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:47:30.013" Score="0" Body="Elfenland is a board game about elves trying to visit the twenty cities on the board. Players lay down different transport tiles (dragons, unicorns, trollwagons, etc.) to create a path they can follow, but some transports are better for some terrains; dragons like to fly through trees rather than over them, and unicorns are too hardcore to go over simple meadows." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:26:44.700" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:26:44.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8805" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:52:47.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/american-megafauna&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'american-megafauna'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;american-megafauna&lt;/a&gt;.  Bios Megafauna covers a later stage of history and has different game mechanics, but some of the &quot;raw ingredients&quot; (traits) will be familiar from the earlier game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T01:31:30.890" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T01:31:30.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8806" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:52:47.933" Score="0" Body="Bios Megafauna is a board game in which players take on the role of different early hominids, competing to see who will evolve into the dominant one.  This is another game in the American Megafauna series.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T00:40:17.597" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T00:40:17.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8807" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:55:28.477" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T00:55:28.477" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T00:55:28.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8808" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T00:55:28.477" Score="0" Body="Questions about how to create or use customized game pieces for existing games or for developing new games.  This includes replacing the existing pieces with better ones, or implementing an existing mechanic using different materials - such as replacing a scoring track with individual victory-point pieces." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:26:23.890" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:26:23.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8809" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:06:28.057" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T01:06:28.057" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T01:06:28.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8810" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:06:28.057" Score="0" Body="A collection of rails games that look deeply into both business decisions and running trains.  Includes 1870, 1825, 1830, 1833, 1860, 1843, 18AL, 18EU, and others." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:28:15.807" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:28:15.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8811" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:09:11.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Legal issues can be very sensitive to jurisdiction, so please remember to specify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/copyright&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'copyright'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;copyright&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T21:42:42.750" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T21:42:42.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8812" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:09:11.127" Score="0" Body="Questions about the legal aspects of making games, including copying or nearly-copying the theme, rules, or other aspects of another game, or converting a game into a new medium." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:25:49.443" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:25:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8813" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:11:00.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The orks are a race from the fictional &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/warhammer-40k&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'warhammer-40k'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;warhammer-40k&lt;/a&gt; universe. They are described as being muscular humanoids, with green skin and a penchant for violence. The orks live for war and constantly fight anything in sight, including each other. In many ways they are analogous to (and based upon) the orcs of Games Workshop's &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/warhammer-fantasy&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'warhammer-fantasy'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;warhammer-fantasy&lt;/a&gt; setting, although differences have emerged as the two universes have become officially separated (to popular opinion). Alongside the Space Marines, Orks are one of the most iconic elements of the Warhammer 40,000 universe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T18:18:02.280" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T18:18:02.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8814" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:11:00.657" Score="0" Body="The orks are a race from the fictional Warhammer 40,000 universe. They are described as being muscular humanoids, with green skin and a penchant for violence. The orks live for war and constantly fight anything in sight, including each other. In many ways they are analogous to (and based upon) the orcs of Games Workshop's Warhammer Fantasy setting, although differences have emerged as the two universes have become officially separated (to popular opinion)." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T18:17:53.450" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T18:17:53.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8815" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:16:01.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mancala.wikia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mancala&lt;/a&gt; is a name for a &lt;em&gt;family of games.&lt;/em&gt; The common factors for mancala games are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A game board, divided in rows of pits. Usually there are two rows, as in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Endodoi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endodoi&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalah&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kalah&lt;/a&gt;. Also four-row mancala games exists, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mancala.wikia.com/wiki/Tchouba&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tchouba&lt;/a&gt;. On one row, there can be 6, 12, 40, 50, or other number of pits. Smallest mancala boards are 2x6 pits, and the largest boards can be up to 4x40 or 2x50 pits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seeds/stones are sown into the pits, and collected from them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The goal is to make more seeds/stones than the opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most well know mancala games are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oware&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oware/Awale&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mancala.wikia.com/wiki/Congkak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Congkak&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mancala.wikia.com/wiki/Bao_la_Kiswahili&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bao&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalah&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kalah&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mancala.wikia.com/wiki/Toguz_Kumalak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Toguz Kumalak&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T22:55:32.903" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:55:32.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8816" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:16:01.227" Score="0" Body="Mancala is an ancient 2-player game where players pick up stones from one of six spaces on their side of the board, then drop one piece in each space going forward, including onto their granary and then to their opponent's side of the board. The objective is to collect the most pieces in your granary." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T22:54:34.990" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T22:54:34.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8817" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:18:52.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T01:18:52.893" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T01:18:52.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8818" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:18:52.893" Score="0" Body="Sealed deck is a tournament style where players buy six booster packs, and assemble a deck from them. New players have the same chance to get cards as anyone else, so this levels the playing field a bit." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:26:39.007" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:26:39.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8819" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:29:08.107" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T01:29:08.107" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T01:29:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8820" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T01:29:08.107" Score="0" Body="How to gain skill in a particular game, or teach others how to learn a game." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T02:26:19.053" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T02:26:19.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8821" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T05:08:42.883" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T05:08:42.883" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T05:08:42.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8822" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T05:08:42.883" Score="0" Body="Please do not use this tag, it has been depreciated." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T05:08:42.883" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T05:08:42.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8798" CreationDate="2012-10-26T06:27:01.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most reliable data is usually to troll the various publishers' websites. For a singular point of information, it varies by game type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Miniatures Games: &lt;a href=&quot;http://theminiaturespage.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Miniatures Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Board Games and Card Games: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;, especially the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/gonecardboard?sort=releasedate&amp;amp;releasestatus=unreleased&amp;amp;daterange=3months&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recent Releases&lt;/a&gt; page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somewhat less reliable: online game retailer websites, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardsandbits.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boards &amp;amp; Bits&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thoughthammer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thoughthammer&lt;/a&gt; or  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trollandtoad.com/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Troll and Toad&lt;/a&gt;. In general, I've found these sites to have excellent notes on upcoming releases. Moreover, many of them have notification services for registered customers. Most list items once they've been solicited for them and submitted an order; if the order is late, they will often pass along information on revised due dates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another source, albeit one that's even more unreliable, is &lt;a href=&quot;http://kickstarter.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter.com&lt;/a&gt;. Search for games on KS, and you'll find out about a lot of forthcoming games... but many of those, you'll need to preorder using KS in order to get them at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The least reliable, in my experience, has been Amazon.com. I've had items in hand from my FLGS that Amazon says have been either canceled or delayed for several months past the date I bought the item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T06:27:01.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8798" CreationDate="2012-10-26T06:46:33.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.internationalespieltage.de/e060.php4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new releases&lt;/a&gt; section in the Internationale Spieltage is also a very important resource to consider. Basically, if it's not there, it's not going to be available soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T06:46:33.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8825" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-26T06:52:03.013" Score="13" ViewCount="3109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an intermediate-level amateur chess player. How would I go about learning how to accurately play a complete game of chess, blindfolded? What skills are needed, and how are they practiced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, how can I maintain an accurate representation in my head of the board state over time? Whenever I've tried this, I get a dozen or so moves in, and it all starts to fall apart. Are there specific techniques or representations to help with this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T08:05:35.040" Title="How can I learn to play chess blindfold?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8826" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:31:37.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/components&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'components'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;components&lt;/a&gt; for game pieces like dice, pawns, etc, and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/storage&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'storage'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;storage&lt;/a&gt; for methods of managing all this stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:15:00.230" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:15:00.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8827" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:31:37.207" Score="0" Body="Refers to objects outside of a game that can help with game play, maintenance, storage, or creation." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:35:40.000" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:35:40.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8828" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:38:40.553" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T07:38:40.553" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T07:38:40.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8829" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:38:40.553" Score="0" Body="Unused.  Formerly used for one Dominion card." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:53:37.333" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:53:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8830" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:45:35.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extensions at the same height are often referred to by the number of spaces left, like a 2-space jump or a 3-space jump. In general, jumping could be in any direction, but an extension is near the side and parallel to the side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T19:41:56.050" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:41:56.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8831" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:45:35.323" Score="0" Body="A Go move, usually in the opening, that jumps along the side from an existing friendly stone (or wall), leaving a space between them and staying within one line of previous stone's height." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T18:58:23.620" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T18:58:23.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8832" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:48:26.677" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T07:48:26.677" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T07:48:26.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8833" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:48:26.677" Score="0" Body="Breaking the rules. How to do it, how to catch others doing it, and the ramifications of doing so." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:35:52.043" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:35:52.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8834" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:51:06.893" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T07:51:06.893" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T07:51:06.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8835" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T07:51:06.893" Score="0" Body="A card game commonly played in casinos pitting each player against the dealer in a partial-information competition to collect cards totaling as close to 21 as possible without going over." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T09:08:57.637" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T09:08:57.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8836" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:07:37.660" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T08:07:37.660" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T08:07:37.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8837" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:07:37.660" Score="0" Body="A 4-player partnership trick-taking game played with a special deck of 57 cards. Players are dealt 10 cards and bid to declare the trump suit." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:34:31.983" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:34:31.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8838" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:11:52.493" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T08:11:52.493" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T08:11:52.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8839" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:11:52.493" Score="0" Body="Like a miniature version of pool, in carrom (2-4 players, 60 minutes) players use their fingers to flick the striker at the carrom-men in a race to sink all the men of their color and finally the red queen." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:53:45.510" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:53:45.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8840" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:38:51.953" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T08:38:51.953" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T08:38:51.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8841" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T08:38:51.953" Score="0" Body="A 2-player card game similar in spirit to the Cities and Knights expansion to Settlers of Catan. Players build settlements and cities on their own row of resource cards and interact via action cards as they race to accumulate 12 victory points.&#xD;&#xA;Takes about 90 minutes." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T13:45:53.787" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:45:53.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8845" CreationDate="2012-10-26T13:25:14.910" Score="5" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certain spells in Arkham Horror can only be cast on upkeep. One example is &quot;Voice of Ra&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upkeep Phase&lt;/strong&gt;: You may cast and exhaust to gain +1 to all skill checks&#xA;  for the rest of this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the Upkeep Phase, each player takes the following actions, in&#xA;  order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Refresh Exhausted Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Perform Upkeep Actions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Adjust Skills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Adjust Skills action states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, each player may adjust his investigator’s skills using the&#xA;  three skill sliders he placed on his investigator sheet during game&#xA;  setup. This process, as well as a general description of how skill&#xA;  sliders work, is explained in the “Adjusting Skills” diagram.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell doesn't fall into any of those categories. I suspect that these are the things you must do on your upkeep, but you can also do additional things, such as cast spells. But the use of the word &quot;Finally&quot; in the Adjust Skills action could mean that this must be the last thing you do during your upkeep, although I don't think that is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When during your upkeep can you cast upkeep spells? Can I cast them even before the Refresh Exhausted Cards action? In the case of &quot;Voice of Ra&quot; this would allow me to cast it twice in once turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answers so far have said that casting spells is a mandatory upkeep action. This may be the case, but I still think the rules are ambiguous about that. The rules for upkeep actions state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After refreshing his exhausted cards, each player must review his&#xA;  investigator’s cards to see if any of them have an Upkeep action. Each&#xA;  player must perform all Upkeep actions listed on his investigator’s&#xA;  cards every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not required to cast Voice of Ra every turn. Therefore, Voice of Ra is not an upkeep action. This makes no distinction between optional and mandatory upkeep actions. The text of Voice of Ra however may make the casting of it optional. This too seems a little ambiguous. Even if this is the case, how are spells that are castable during &quot;Any Phase&quot; treated. Can they therefore not be cast during the upkeep (even though upkeep is a phase) because they don't have an upkeep action? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if spells must be cast during the upkeep action, it means you will not be able to adjust your skills before casting. It seems a little strange to me that a spell you are casting this turn must be based off last turn's skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="3324" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T14:18:45.910" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T11:15:10.787" Title="When during your upkeep can you cast upkeep spells?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8842" CreationDate="2012-10-26T13:41:56.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it takes a lot of devious rules lawyering to think of casting spells during upkeep as anything other than (optional) &quot;upkeep actions&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are really adamant on arguing that they are something substantially different from the other (compulsory) upkeep actions that definitely must happen between refreshing the cards and moving the silders, I think it's difficult to definitively prove to you that spells shouldn't be cast at weird moments during upkeep, enabling strange effects like, as you say, casting spells twice in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the commonsense reading of upkeep, IMO, is that refreshing happens, then most other things (including upkeep spellcasting), then skill adjustment.  Any other interpretation just seems a bit like trying too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:41:56.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8842" CreationDate="2012-10-26T13:44:22.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spells would definitely be classified as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;upkeep actions&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; and would happen in the second step of upkeep that you outlined. You would not be able to cast spells before refreshing exhausted cards (it would be broken, as you suggest). You are free, of course, to cast the spells in whatever order is most effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T13:44:22.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8842" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:11:49.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a thread on BoardGameGeek where people discussed this very question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/530872/upkeep-adjusting-skill-sliders-and-casting-spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/530872/upkeep-adjusting-skill-sliders-and-casting-spells&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing everybody agrees on is that spells are cast after the 'Refresh Exhausted Cards' step. Whether or not you're allowed to cast spells after moving skills sliders is debateable. An interesting point that is brought up is that Upkeep spells (at least until the reprint of Curse of the Dark Pharaoh) said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upkeep:&lt;/strong&gt; You may cast and exhaust...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;compared to other spells which said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Phase:&lt;/strong&gt; Cast and exhaust to....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which makes me believe that these cards have the following rule from the rule book apply (bolded words are my emphasis)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Perform Upkeep Actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After refreshing his exhausted cards, each player must&#xA;  review his investigator’s cards to see if any of them&#xA;  have an Upkeep action. &lt;strong&gt;Each player must perform all&#xA;  Upkeep actions listed on his investigator’s cards every&#xA;  turn.&lt;/strong&gt; Upkeep actions may be taken in any order the player wishes. Bless, Curse, Bank Loan, and Retainer cards&#xA;  do not require an upkeep roll during the first Upkeep&#xA;  Phase after an investigator acquires them.Each player must perform all&#xA;  Upkeep actions listed on his investigator’s cards every&#xA;  turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the spells have &lt;strong&gt;Upkeep:&lt;/strong&gt; on them, they count as upkeep actions (much like Blessings, Curses, Retainers, and Bank Loans) and have to be used during the &lt;em&gt;Perform Upkeep Actions&lt;/em&gt; step, but they have the &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; qualifier on them they don't have to cast. Fantasy Flight just got lax with the Upkeep spell verbiage in later expansions I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But really, as long as you aren't casting/refreshing/recasting spells during upkeeping you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should clarify that I'm not really a strong proponent of the specific logic in the argument above, I was just summarizing the thread I linked to. It seems like a nice idea but causes too many issues when you find &lt;strong&gt;Upkeep&lt;/strong&gt; spells that lack the word 'may'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar argument is that you have to use the evade bonus from a dark cloak when making evade checks because there's nothing that says you have the option of not using items. (Example situation: If you wanted to take combat damage and get sent to the hospital without having to make a horror check). I find forcing Investigators to use items in any situation where they could be applicable to be a bit extreme. This would fall under that same category for me. Personally, when Fantasy Flight said &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; perform Upkeep actions listed on his investigator's cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read it as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; perform any Upkeep actions listed on his investigator's item cards and &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; perform any Upkeep actions listed on his investigator's non-item cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;since I don't think manditory item use is reasonable. If you believe that item bonuses are non-optional, then casting spells during upkeep would be non-optional as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the the timing of the actions go (since that was actually what the question was about) the rules say this about the Refresh step (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the start&lt;/strong&gt; of the Upkeep Phase, each player&#xA;  refreshes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this about the Adjust step (as you've noted) (again, emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finally&lt;/strong&gt;, each player may adjust...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would suggest that, within the Upkeep Phase, nothing can come before the refresh step and nothing can follow the adjust skills step. Thus, spells would have to fall someplace in the middle, regardless of them being mandatory or not. You could however interpret &quot;finally&quot; as simply denoting the last item in a list rather than meaning &quot;At the end of upkeep phase&quot;, but I think it's pretty clear that the Refresh step is the very first thing that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T16:50:08.150" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T16:50:08.150" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8847" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:41:25.547" Score="11" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember finding the rules to this game on the internet, oh, 15 years ago or so. The players (typically (or necessarily?) two) sit around a table. At every &quot;turn&quot; - for advanced play indicated by some clock or so, but for beginners like me when all players agree that they have worked out what to do next - each player simultaneously reveals two hand signs out of an alphabet of five or so, independently with the left and right hand. Hand signs were things like a wavy line, pointing with your index finger, or a fist. Then there was a dictionary of ten or so sequences of three to five hand signs that form spells; you look for each hand if the last couple of signs match any of the spells exactly, and if they do then that spell takes effect - for example, if &quot;fist - wavy line - fist - point&quot; would be &quot;lightning bolt&quot; according to the dictionary, then if for the last five turns your left hand had done &quot;wavy line - fist - wavy line - fist - point&quot;, that would trigger a lightning bolt. I believe players started with a certain number of life points; there were damage spells, healing spells, counter spells, maybe a shield spell as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fun of the game was, of course, that you'd have to figure out what your opponent was building up to with both her hands, and evaluate if you could afford to carry out your own plans or whether you needed to do something to counter it. Also, sometimes you could come up with nice combinations: the last few hand signs of one spell might form the first few of another, so you could make them overlap for higher efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure this was never a commercially published game - since there are no physical objects to sell, that would be a tricky proposition anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally of course I'd like to find the game rules as they were available back then, but I'd be happy to just hear from people who remember this as well. I would even be open to trying to recreate it collaboratively, if anyone is up for that sort of thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="30" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:53:24.727" Title="What are the name and rules of this hand signing spell game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8846" CreationDate="2012-10-26T14:53:24.727" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds a lot like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5818/waving-hands&quot;&gt;Waving Hands&lt;/a&gt;, or Spellcaster. Here's an online copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.andrew.cmu.edu/user/gc00/reviews/spellcaster.html&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to BoardGameGeek, you can even play it online, &lt;a href=&quot;http://games.ravenblack.net/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T14:53:24.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8850" CreationDate="2012-10-26T16:04:12.247" Score="8" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of the Knights has a different name. If someone reveals a Knight when I play a Jester, can I gain a Knight, or do I gain nothing since there isn't a second Dame Anne (or whomever) available in the supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UKkVr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Jester&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T17:41:30.103" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T22:46:11.217" Title="How does Jester interact with the Knights?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-cornucopia|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8849" CreationDate="2012-10-26T16:25:41.553" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Golden Rule of Dominion is &quot;do as much as you can&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no copies of a card exist (e.g. because they've all been trashed) then no card is given out by a Jester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Knights are unique cards, &lt;strong&gt;no-one gains anything&lt;/strong&gt; when a Jester reveals one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T15:54:46.430" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T15:54:46.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8853" CreationDate="2012-10-26T16:27:34.177" Score="29" ViewCount="6933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played about half a dozen games of Arkham Horror, and they ranged in length from about 3 hours to aborting after 8.  These were all games with 5-6 players, with just the base game (no expansions).  I'm not an experienced enough player to know what factors caused that amount of variability.  (It wasn't the players or analysis paralysis.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can we do to complete a satisfying game in about 3-4 hours?  Are certain investigators (or combinations) better?  Are there house rules that would help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T17:41:06.850" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T13:04:54.777" Title="How can we play a shorter but satisfying game of Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|play-time|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2012-10-26T17:11:39.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/07/30/building-the-first-game-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;excellent article&lt;/a&gt; on the Dominion Strategy Blog about trying to find an optimal strategy for the &quot;First Game&quot; set-up in the Dominion base set. It's a must-read for anyone frustrated by Big Money in Dominion because it shows that Big Money is good, but that you can fairly easily do &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; better. And then, with some tweaking, you can beat that. And with a little more work, improve it even more. The article shows that depth of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T16:09:43.627" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T16:09:43.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8851" CreationDate="2012-10-26T17:14:49.280" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;3-4 hours is good.  8 is way too long!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without seeing you play it's hard to say with precision where your time is being spent inefficiently, I do have a couple suggestions though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Setup efficiently&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup can be done in 5-10 minutes but can easily drag on for half an hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setting up is a job for several people.  The most experienced person should be handing out tasks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle the Mythos deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get clue tokens on every space with this red diamond on it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand out character cards to everyone, figure out what fixed items are needed and search for them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Play Cooperatively&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group got a lot more efficient when we started talking before we moved.  A simple 30 second discussion of what each player's plans are for that turn can end up saving a lot of time.  For example: I found that big stalls happened when the 2nd player to move took the clue tokens I was aiming for.  With a brief chat, that sort of conflict can be hammered out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also allows an opportunity for someone to mention that they really can't do much unless someone else kills that pesky &lt;strong&gt;Dark Young&lt;/strong&gt; hanging out in the streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upkeep as well as Encounters (Arkham or Offworld) can generally be done simultaneously.  However my group prefers that all encounter cards be read aloud so the whole group can enjoy them.  The shuffling and drawing is done ahead of time so there isn't much waiting though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Job 1 - Closing Gates&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/strong&gt; is a great game, dripping in style.  It is a lot of fun to have encounters, kill monsters and collect a lot of items and spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game plays a lot faster if you keep closing gates as job 1.  With 5 players several people should be tasked with collecting clues and hopping off world as quickly as possible to close the first couple gates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Injury and Madness&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/strong&gt; expansion added Injury and Madness cards.  These cards greatly change what happens when an investigator loses all of her sanity or stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the original rules losing all of your sanity or stamina causes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loss of half your items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;loss of half your clue tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reset the sanity or stamina to 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Injury and Madness rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No loss of items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No loss of clue tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reset sanity/stamina to maximum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain an injury or madness card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you move to Saint Mary's Hospital or the Arkham Asylum as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you own Dunwich Horror, I would encourage you to use these rules.  The original rules are too harsh and potentially cost the player many turns to regain the lost items/clues/stamina/sanity and results in a slower game while the player recoups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have the cards, just ignore them.  Or pick a couple that sound cool off of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Madness&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Wiki&lt;/a&gt; and make your own custom chart and roll a die to get a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Great Old One equals Game Over&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If our game is running long, we declare that we have lost if the Great Old One shows up.  In the first edition of the game (late 80's) this was the rule.  Fantasy Flight adjusted it when they remade the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can depend a lot on the GOO as well.  Some of them, particularly in the base set, make for long combats.  They neither kill the investigators very fast or have the decency to die quickly themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can easily just skip all that and stay true to the the Chthulu Mythos by admitting that the world is lost when the GOO shows up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - if you follow Job 1(noted above), you'll be seeing a lot less of the Great Old Ones!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T17:14:49.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8851" CreationDate="2012-10-26T17:27:58.500" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;2-4 hours is definitely the standard length for a game. That said, sometimes games run for 6+ hours just due to luck of the draw. The &quot;Big 4&quot; locations in the base set are the Woods, the Unvisited Isle, the Witch House, and Independence Square. Each of these locations has 10 cards in the Mythos deck which open a gate in their location. Concievably, you could seal off those four locations after the first 8 turns and just keep pulling mythos cards that try to open on those locations that don't do anything. Turn after turn after turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When that happens to my gaming group generally we'll all just sit on various locations, skip movements and breeze through encounters until something interesting happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe that's not what you're talking about. Maybe you're talking about how you're doing a pretty good job of holding off the slow inexorable approach of Lovecraftian horror and you want to get better at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;General Suggestions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So like I said, sealing off the Big 4 is a good way to get things under control pretty quickly. After those, the Black Cave, Unnamable, and the Graveyard has six cards each. All the others only have two. If you're in a pinch, generally you can close gates in the lower tier locations rather than sealing with without repercussions. Sometimes you'll just have to close a gate to get it off the board. If you find the game is going too slow, going gung-ho on just closing gates is a good way to speed up the doom track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting at least one investigator decked out with weapons is very helpful. People generally want something to protect themselves, but I find that having 1 strong combat character can get more done successfully then 2 or 3 OK characters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Madness/Injury cards from Dunwich Horror decrease the amount players need to run to the Asylum/Hospital for healing, allowing a larger number of productive turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Player Count&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 5 investigator game is also one of the more difficult configurations for Arkham. Gate limit is one lower than the 4 player game, moster limit on the board is +1, but you'll have twice as many monsters to deal with. 4 player games and 8 player games are the sweet spots mechanically, 4 player games are the sweet spot logistically (Less downtime in between turns keeps players more involved with the game, prevents slowdown, less inter-investigator coordination required, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Game Flow&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having one player that knows the rules decently well is pretty important. You'll be tempted to pull out the rulebook and try to find specific answers to scenarios, but it's generally a bad idea. Make a ruling, remember to look it up after the game is done, and keep playing. Stopping the flow of the game to look up rules can really extend game time and kill enthusiasm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try not to take breaks during the game! Maintain focus! 3-4 hours is pretty long time to play a board game for some people and if they're fiddling with a smartphone, playing on a DS, watching a TV that's on in the background, taking a break to get food, talking with another group of people, knitting, etc. it takes them time to catch up with what happened in the game when they weren't paying attention, people have to wait for them, etc. I've had 8 player games done in 2 hours just because everyone was really paying attention to what was going on in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That all said, even experience groups can find themselves in a slogfest (or a shogfest har har) and you may find that taking a collective break and coming back does wonders for everyone's morale. Group morale is a pretty big part of the game interestingly enough and when it starts going down game speed starts going with it. Have a decent grip on the rule basics, maintain group cohesion, and have fun; soon enough most of your games will land in the 2-4 hour window!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T17:35:17.930" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T17:35:17.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8855" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T18:31:39.993" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T18:31:39.993" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T18:31:39.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8856" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T18:31:39.993" Score="0" Body="A 2-player card game similar in spirit to the Cities and Knights expansion to Settlers of Catan. A redesign of the Catan Card Game, Rivals for Catan offers different themed decks to allow players to customize the gameplay. Players build settlements and cities on their own row of resource cards and interact via action cards as they race to accumulate victory points. 45-60 minutes." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T18:42:20.873" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T18:42:20.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8825" CreationDate="2012-10-26T21:30:57.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have to take a closer look at mnemotechnics. Probably &lt;em&gt;Memory Palace technique&lt;/em&gt; in particular. You can read about it &lt;a href=&quot;http://litemind.com/memory-palace/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mnemotechnics.org/x/forums/what-methods-exist-for-chess-1492.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a discussion about techniques used with Chess games. Mainly about memorizing them. A book called &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.dk/books/about/How_to_develop_a_perfect_memory.html?id=jq6Df_kK-0gC&amp;amp;redir_esc=y&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to develop a perfect memory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is suggested reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know Derren Brown (he's British mentalist, a &quot;mind-reader&quot;, if you like), he has done a bit about playing 9 simultaneous chess games with top English players. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evZmpsl3jI0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can watch it on youtube with explanation on how he did it&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, he only had to remember 8 moves at a time, but it's still pretty tricky not to get confused. If you are interested, you can read Derren's book &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tricks-Mind-Derren-Brown/dp/1905026358&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tricks of the Mind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, it has whole section about &lt;em&gt;Memory&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T21:30:57.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8858" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:09:41.710" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:09:41.710" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:09:41.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8859" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:09:41.710" Score="0" Body="Rectangular tiles composed of two squares sharing an edge, with each square showing between 0 and 6 dots. Many games are played using dominos, some spatial, some trick-taking." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:07:54.363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:07:54.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8860" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:31:52.717" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:31:52.717" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:31:52.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8861" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:31:52.717" Score="0" Body="Questions about unified or mostly-unified sets of rules that apply to many games, usually released by the same publisher. " OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:57:43.137" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:57:43.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8862" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:36:28.700" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:36:28.700" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:36:28.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8863" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:36:28.700" Score="0" Body="Shogun is a wargame played on a board, released in 2006. It uses a unique battle mechanic: all participating armies are thrown into a Battle Tower, where some will become stuck, some will dislodge previously-stuck armies, and some will fall through." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:59:15.567" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:59:15.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8864" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:39:26.857" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:39:26.857" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:39:26.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8865" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:39:26.857" Score="0" Body="Pirate King was released in 2006; players take on the role of pirate captains. The game balances both fighting and economy-building." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:58:17.987" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:58:17.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8866" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:39:58.697" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:39:58.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:39:58.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8867" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:39:58.697" Score="0" Body="Unused. Formerly used for one question about Go. Should be deleted." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:07:43.833" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:07:43.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8868" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:40:25.420" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:40:25.420" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:40:25.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8869" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:40:25.420" Score="0" Body="Unused. Formerly used for one question about Go. Should be deleted." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:09:24.427" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:09:24.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:46:43.543" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dynamics of the game are based on the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &quot;real life,&quot; Germany would have beaten Britain and Russia if the latter two did not receive American help. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overwhelming American power (almost that of Britain, Germany and Russia put together) meant that the Allies would be heavy favorites once America joined the war. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the game, America has a fraction of its &quot;real life&quot; power, enough to make the Allies favorites, but not enough to make them prohibitively so. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game, if Germany conquers Russia, Germany-Russia is stronger than U.S.-Britain, which was not true in real life. Therefore the game imperatives are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the Russian player to successfully defend Moskva against capture &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For the Americans to find a way to make their weight felt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia needs to play strict defense, with the ultimate aim of defending Moskva. That doesn't mean that they should neglect the surrounding territories (that would make it too easy for the Germans to capture the extra &quot;income&quot;), but rather to beat a &quot;fighting retreat&quot; as in real life. That is, they should mostly build infantry, and use them to defend territories in a die-hard fashion, and leaving air and armor units in Moskva for &quot;strafing&quot; counter attacks, extracting the highest possible price in time and firepower for territories lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Americans need to find a way to help the Russians, making effective use of their margin of superiority. One way is &quot;Lend Lease,&quot; sending e.g. fighter units to Moskva for its defense, so that the Russians can build &quot;all infantry.&quot;  That is a genuine, but inefficient use of American resources. The second way is to launch &quot;bleeding&quot; attacks in Europe &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scandinavia, which threatens to open a direct route to Russia or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;France or Italy, which directly threatens Germany, or even &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North Africa, which reduces German income from the south. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these initiatives are successful, the Germans will have too few troops/income left to defeat Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Allies CAN lose if the die rolls are bad. Barring this, they have a sufficient margin of superiority to win if they play as well as the Germans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T18:46:54.107" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T18:46:54.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8871" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:47:13.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:47:13.820" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:47:13.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8872" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:47:13.820" Score="0" Body="Kids of Catan is a board game where players roll a die to rotate the board, then take the resources they need.  When they have one of each resource, they build a building; first one to build all of the buildings wins." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:58:59.313" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:58:59.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8873" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:51:02.490" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:51:02.490" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:51:02.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8874" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:51:02.490" Score="0" Body="Agricola: the Goodies is an expansion for Agricola, containing four small expansion decks (X, O, CZ, and L; 24 cards each), new player boards, stickers to label adults and children, and custom meeples for veggies, animals, and resources." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:59:29.017" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:59:29.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8875" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:53:46.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base game can be played by 2-6 Players while the playtime extend by 30 min. for each player. The players build a universe (size differs by the count of players) by hexagons. Unless in battle you need no dice and no cards while playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game of Eclipse places you in control of a vast interstellar civilization, competing for success with its rivals. You will explore new star systems, research technologies, and build spaceships to wage war with. There are many potential paths to victory, so you need to plan your strategy according to the strengths and weaknesses of your species, while paying attention to the other civilizations' endeavors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T09:31:23.770" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T09:31:23.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8876" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:53:46.447" Score="0" Body="Eclipse can be played by 2-6 Players (base game) and places you in control of a vast interstellar civilization, competing for success with its rivals. You will explore new star systems, research technologies, and build spaceships to wage war with. There are many potential paths to victory, so you need to plan your strategy according to the strengths and weaknesses of your species, while paying attention to the other civilizations' endeavors." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T09:31:30.680" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T09:31:30.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8877" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:55:52.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:55:52.280" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:55:52.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8878" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T22:55:52.280" Score="0" Body="Chaos in the Old World is a board game set in the Warhammer universe, released in 2009. You take on the role of one of the Chaos Gods, trying to corrupt parts of the Old World while fighting off your rival gods... and those poor mortals trying to survive." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T22:58:28.937" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T22:58:28.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8879" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:00:26.313" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T23:00:26.313" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T23:00:26.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8880" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:00:26.313" Score="0" Body="Warhammer Fantasy is a miniatures wargame published by Games Workshop. It is known for both the beauty and the expense of its models." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:08:01.883" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:08:01.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8881" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:05:25.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T23:05:25.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T23:05:25.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8882" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:05:25.480" Score="0" Body="Quarriors is a like a deck-building game, but with dice: you draw 6 dice from your dice bag and roll them each round, and buy additional dice or take other actions depending on the results of your dice." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:09:16.627" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:09:16.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8883" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:08:38.083" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-26T23:08:38.083" LastActivityDate="2012-10-26T23:08:38.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8884" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:08:38.083" Score="0" Body="Barbarian Prince is a single-player board game released in 1981. You play as a barbarian performing heroic deeds and finding treasure, using an event book to see what happens next." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:07:28.220" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:07:28.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8885" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:59:39.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tau are an army that focuses on long range shooting, with most of their pieces focusing on a run-and-gun tactic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:07:21.853" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:07:21.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8886" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-26T23:59:39.573" Score="0" Body="The Tau are an available army in Warhammer 40K, with an emphasis on long-ranged combat." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:30:48.193" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:30:48.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8888" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:02:12.967" Score="13" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Rival Executioner card requires that, upon his execution, you take the noble from the top of the deck and &quot;collect&quot; it. My friend drew Robespierre, who, when collected, ends the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't like the way it affected the game (my friend was in second place, and it was day three), so we let it go. But I'm still curious...do you reap the side effects of the card drawn after beheading the Rival Executioner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rival Executioner reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Collect the top noble of the noble deck after you collect this noble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Robespierre reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The day ends after you collect this noble. Discard any nobles remaining in line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T12:48:56.130" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T12:50:48.673" Title="Rival Executioner draws Robespierre...does this end the day?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8887" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:10:23.357" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you end the day if you collect Robespierre via the Rival Executioner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game only has one verb for the process of operating the guillotine: &quot;collect.&quot; When a noble is collected, you do all of the side-effects of that noble. Guillotine is a mix of tactics and luck, so drawing Robespierre due to the Rival Executioner is well in line with the way the game typically plays out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:55:01.677" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:55:01.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8889" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:14:35.317" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:14:35.317" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:14:35.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8890" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:14:35.317" Score="0" Body="Dungeon Run is a competitive board game where players select a character, then slay the denizens of the dungeon and get out with as much treasure as possible. Players can cooperate, but only one person can win in the end!" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:15:33.577" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:15:33.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:24:39.470" Score="23" ViewCount="1489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a game enthusiast. I mostly enjoy board games, card games and things like party games that require no preparations. My friends know that about me, and they seem to treat me as an official &lt;em&gt;Rules Explainer&lt;/em&gt;; if there are some new people willing to play with us, or some players that need to refresh their memory and hear the rules one more time, I'm going to be the person asked to explain the rules. Even if someone else suggested playing that particular game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I often have to teach other players game rules. Each time I do it, I try to do it better and learn from previous experiences. I'm constantly trying to improve my skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the best practices in teaching other people game rules?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Off the top of my head some of the many things to talk about include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When should I mention the goal of the game? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much of the rules should I expect my fellow players to understand before playing a complex game for the first time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I avoid introducing new rules in the middle of the game (it's frustrating for other players, they can feel tricked, and accuse you of not mentioning it before to your advantage, and so on...)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about answering questions? Usually my answer would be &quot;I'm going to talk about that in a moment&quot;, but I don't want to discourage players from asking questions if they don't quite get something. And I don't want to seem rude, saying &quot;not now&quot; again and again. On the other hand, answering such questions might be confusing for other players. What if most of the players understood the rules, but not the whole group? How should I deal with the short attention span?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T20:56:55.277" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T05:25:29.127" Title="How can I teach other people game rules?" Tags="|teaching|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8893" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:30:37.900" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:30:37.900" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:30:37.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8894" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:30:37.900" Score="0" Body="Galaxy Trucker is a tile-based game where you haul cargoes across space, through dangerous roads. You start with a stock ship, but expand it during the time-limited building phase by grabbing ship-expansion tiles with limited connectivity and sticking them onto your ship wherever you can fit them." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:18:56.707" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:18:56.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8895" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:33:00.630" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:33:00.630" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:33:00.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8896" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:33:00.630" Score="0" Body="Khet is best described as &quot;laser chess&quot;: your pieces are mirrored on one (or more) sides. You can move or rotate one piece per turn, and then your laser fires; if it hits a non-mirrored side of a piece, it is captured." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:19:26.877" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:19:26.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8897" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:40:22.693" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:40:22.693" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:40:22.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8898" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:40:22.693" Score="0" Body="Space Hulk: Death Angel is a cooperative card game set in the Warhammer 40k universe, where space marines are invading a space hulk to exterminate an infestation of genestealers. Shoot as many of the aliens as you can, because the rest will try to claw your armor open if they live." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:19:33.477" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:19:33.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8899" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:41:16.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:41:16.173" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:41:16.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8900" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:41:16.173" Score="0" Body="Questions about different versions of the same game." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:19:15.520" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:19:15.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8901" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:43:53.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;h1&gt;About&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokémon Trading Card Game, named Pokémon Card Game in Japan, is a trading card game created by Media Factory in Japan in 1996 and distributed initially by Wizards of the Coast overseas in 1999, currently being distributed by The Pokémon Company International (TPCi). It is based directly on Pokémon, and meant to be a simulation of a battle between two Pokémon trainers. The objective of the game is to defeat your opponent's Pokémon, and victory is achieved when all of your opponent's Pokémon have been defeated or when you draw all of your &quot;prize&quot; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resources&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://assets6.pokemon.com/assets/cms/pdf/tcg/rulebooks/bw_boundaries_crossed_rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Rulebook, as of Black &amp;amp; White: Boundaries Crossed.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://compendium.pokegym.net/compendium-bw.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Compendium Black and White from PokéGym, an official card and gameplay rulings resource.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4875" LastEditorUserId="4875" LastEditDate="2013-02-07T02:11:07.737" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T02:11:07.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8902" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:43:53.767" Score="0" Body="Pokémon Trading Card Game is a two-player trading card game based on the popular franchise. Players select Pokémon, who have various types and abilities, and try to defeat the opponent's Pokémon. Trainer cards provide various supporting and disrupting effects. Energy cards are this game's resource system and are needed to use a Pokémon's attacks. Cards in play are always face-up." OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T12:07:58.637" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T12:07:58.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8903" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:44:55.480" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:44:55.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:44:55.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8904" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:44:55.480" Score="0" Body="Techniques for teaching, learning, and improving one's skill.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:15:08.497" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:15:08.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8905" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:48:47.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A variant for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'magic-the-gathering'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt; in which one player creates a &quot;cube&quot; of cards a portion of which are used while &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mtg-drafting&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'mtg-drafting'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mtg-drafting&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/9975_Gleaming_the_Cube.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/9975_Gleaming_the_Cube.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:48:47.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:48:47.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8906" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:48:47.480" Score="0" Body="A variant for Magic:The Gathering in which one player creates a &quot;cube&quot; of cards a portion of which are used in a draft." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T01:48:47.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T01:48:47.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8907" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:59:22.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 6th game in the &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; series, Cornucopia is a small expansion providing 13 new kingdom cards and a set of &quot;prizes&quot;, cards that can be obtained only through use of the Tournament action card. Cornucopia cards tend to reward players for having a diverse deck, such as Menagerie, which gives +1 Action and +3 cards if you have no duplicate cards in hand, otherwise +1 card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there. A PDF of the Dominion: Cornucopia rules is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_383_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T05:54:46.200" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T05:54:46.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8908" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T01:59:22.553" Score="0" Body="The 6th Dominion installment, Cornucopia is a small expansion themed around variety." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T11:39:31.627" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T11:39:31.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8909" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-27T02:18:19.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A popular tournament format for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/bridge&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'bridge'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;bridge&lt;/a&gt; where each table plays with identical pre-set hands of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:18:19.330" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:18:19.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8910" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-27T02:18:19.330" Score="0" Body="A popular tournament format for Bridge where each table plays with identical pre-set hands of cards." OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T02:18:19.330" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T02:18:19.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2012-10-27T06:24:47.357" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some things you can do. Keep in mind for the first game I'm usually more interested in teaching people how to play than winning, especially if I know the game well. This method might not work as well with a mixture of old hats and newbies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play with an open hand (maybe even have the other players do the same). This of course only works in games with secret information (card games especially). Make bad choices and explain why they are bad choices while you make them... especially if you can use those choices to illustrate points. So something like &quot;Now I'm going to play Card X ... in a real game I wouldn't know (though I might guess) that you've got Card Y in your hand which is a perfect counter to my play.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On your turn explain why you are doing things, what benefit you might expect to get and how it would ruin everyone else's day. On their turns point out things they could do to make your life more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take backs! Let them have them all they want where possible. Where chance is involved you might do a thing a practice time or two first so people can see how it works, especially if it's complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the game is complicated explain up front that you're going to parcel the rules out in digestible chunks. In Small world, I usually don't bother explaining going into decline until the second round. It's largely irrelevant to your strategy before then ... largely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If despite all this you still win, that's okay, hopefully you've done a good job of explaining how you got there, and they'll trash you on the next game ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T06:24:47.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2012-10-27T06:30:17.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you should say is what is needed to win the game, money, points, etc. Which marker, if any, in the board represents the winning score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you should be familiar with the game. But if you have doubts, don't be afraid to ask to other people in the table and refresh your memory, that's better than a wrong rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the explanation itself, that is hard, some people like it in history form, like &quot;we are space marines fighting this ....&quot;, some people prefer straight out of theme explanations. If you are explaining to a group, better is to set the environment but don't go too deep on that and then get to the rules itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About questions, if it's a simple one, and is not going to disturb your rhythm, answer it, and then keep going, if its complicated, tell the to wait and when you get to that point, pay special attention to the person who made the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About complex rules and complex games, if a game is too different from the usual ones your group play, take the time to explain the basics, but keep the more complex ones to the in game, be alert and right before the situation happen, explain it. Some people may not like that, so that's a point to clarify with the group before playing. If somebody thinks that mechanic will give advantage to somebody, or is just unhappy with it, you will have to explain everything before, which in the end is not going to work and you will have questions during the game any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to adapt to the people you play with, but you also have to keep the things interesting, if you spend an hour setting and explaining the game, you will loose the interest of the people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T06:30:17.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8887" CreationDate="2012-10-27T06:36:37.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have to follow the rules and end the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very simple, but extremely fun game due to it's luck and unpredictability, if you take that away, you are taking the soul of the game away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's always another round to play and many more chances to play again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T06:36:37.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2012-10-27T10:16:32.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think 7 Wonders is based much on luck, it has a lot of strategy and in a very clever way because players must choose their strategy in every game according to a number of variables such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the number of players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;his wonder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the strategy of his neighbour players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what makes this game interesting and unique. It's never the same game. However there are some general guidelines and usually your wonder gives a good indication of what you should go after. Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamemaniac.com/articles/7-Wonders-Strategy-Guide-a11.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a strategy guide I wrote&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3428" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T12:41:53.707" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T12:41:53.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8887" CreationDate="2012-10-27T12:50:48.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, as others have said. The trigger word is &quot;collect&quot; which applies regardless of where you collect the noble from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth mentioning that there are other cards that also have effects regardless of where you collect them from, such as the &lt;strong&gt;Fast Noble&lt;/strong&gt;, who allows you to collect an extra noble from the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T12:50:48.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8917" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8919" CreationDate="2012-10-27T18:57:28.387" Score="8" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a nice variant of Tic-Tac-Toe game, but since I don't know the game, nor remember the exact parameters of the game, it is hard to find info about it, as existence of optimal strategies etc. The part where I'm not sure is the dimension of the grid, but I think it was 4x4 because of the nature of the pieces. Each pieces have four traits, 2 possibilities for each trait. For example, the traits of the game I saw were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Height (Small or tall)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Color (White or black)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Shape (circle or square)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Fillness (Filled or with a hole)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most likely all 16 possible pieces were present. Now here is how the game is played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has the white pieces, player B has the black one. On player's A turn, he gives one of his piece to player B and player B decides where he puts it. He then gives one of his (B's) piece to A and A places it where ever he may wants. This keep going on until a player places a piece that gives a Tic-Tac-Toe, a Tic-Tac-Toe being 4 aligned pieces that possess a same traits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I am making myself clear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3431" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-27T19:12:01.753" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T19:12:01.753" Title="Looking for a specific variant of Tic-Tac-Toe" Tags="|identify-this-game|quarto|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8917" CreationDate="2012-10-27T19:11:31.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/681/quarto&quot;&gt;Quarto!&lt;/a&gt; is the game you have in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T19:11:31.597" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2012-10-27T19:32:06.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a summary of some of the techniques I use, and I've seen here that I think work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Use Meeples Efficiently&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a meeple on a road and whenever you pick up a road piece, put it connecting that road, steer it away from others who might connect to it and away from the main board pieces. Everything else is for Cloisters and Cities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't always put a piece down. You have a few things to consider first. How many cloisters are out yet? How many meeple do people have available and easily returned? Do you have cities to finish or cloisters to surround? Always work out the points you'll get from each option you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Build Farms late&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People, in my experience rush to place farms down and sit on them only to have them snatched later in the game. Don't fall into this trap. You've just lost a piece you could put on a city or short road, and have returned in time to play as a farmer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Don't underestimate Cities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cities, if you can focus on them, and reap huge returns. These returns can swing the game, even when someone has played a farm heavy game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Always leave a spare meeple for a cloister&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing worse than drawing a cloister and not being able to put it down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Place tiles carefully&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Always keep in mind where you're trying to finish off a city a cloister or a road (remember point one?). Keep a track of yours and other's farms are and be wary of extending or joining farms&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Do whatever the other's aren't&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the other players are engaged in farm wars, leave them be and focus on cities. No one picking up on farms? Get a few of those down. Try to stay ahead of the pack this way and they'll end up diluting the resources too far to compete with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T19:32:06.363" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-10-27T19:32:06.363" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8720" CreationDate="2012-10-27T19:41:16.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Letting players trade &quot;future&quot; resources can help a lot. Trading someone a future resource means you're promising to give them that resource the next time you generate it (and when it's one of your turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose you have a wheat, a wood, and a sheep, and you need a brick to finish your settlement. You have a settlement on a 6 brick, but the dice have been against you the whole game, and you just haven't rolled many 6's. You've had bad luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, someone else's 12 brick just rolled, but he can't do anything with it right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordinarily, you're just stuck passing the dice and waiting for your 6, but with future resources, you can sell two future bricks -- your next two bricks -- for your opponent's brick in hand. You're able to cash in on what your 6 brick should roll in the future, rather than just what it happened to roll in the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2012-10-27T19:41:16.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8926" CreationDate="2012-10-28T01:39:21.630" Score="12" ViewCount="12945" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we all know in standard tic-tac-toe the game can't be won if both players play optimally. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarto_%28board_game%29&quot;&gt;Quarto&lt;/a&gt; a game that will end in a draw if both players play optimally?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, what are the most common drawing strategies?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If no, are there one or more strategies that guarantee a player's win, as in games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nim&quot;&gt;Nim&lt;/a&gt; for example?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a math teacher creating a course on math games and mathemagic tricks, so I'm looking for games that have optimal strategies that are explained with mathematical arguments, and stuff like that. I'm open to suggestions, but will most likely post a separate question when the project gets more concrete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3431" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T11:03:25.347" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T11:04:24.423" Title="Are there guaranteed winning strategies for Quarto?" Tags="|game-design|quarto|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-28T01:59:48.030" Score="13" ViewCount="10102" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you copy &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Confusion&quot;&gt;Increasing Confusion&lt;/a&gt; or any other &amp;quot;cast from the graveyard&amp;quot; spell with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt;, does the copy act like it was cast from the graveyard? Or, since the copy technically was not cast from the graveyard, would it just have the normal effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3433" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T05:13:58.327" LastActivityDate="2018-05-20T07:34:58.733" Title="Are copied spells cast from the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8923" CreationDate="2012-10-28T02:52:13.303" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your instincts are correct. Copies of spells are just placed on the stack, they are never &lt;strong&gt;cast&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to &lt;strong&gt;put a copy of it on to the stack; a copy of a spell isn’t cast&lt;/strong&gt; and a copy of an activated ability isn’t activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards on the other hand, can be copied and cast. For example, if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; was enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellweaver%20Volute&quot;&gt;Spellweaver Volute&lt;/a&gt;, the copy of the card &lt;strong&gt;would&lt;/strong&gt; be cast from a graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T17:20:59.680" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T17:20:59.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8923" CreationDate="2012-10-28T03:38:02.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;copy a spell&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;cast a spell&lt;/em&gt; actions are distinct and unrelated. A spell created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; was created by a copy action, not by a cast action. If that spell was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Confusion&quot;&gt;Increasing Confusion&lt;/a&gt;, its replacement effect doesn't come into effect since it wasn't cast (from the graveyard or otherwise). This is specifically covered by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it on to the stack; a copy of a spell isn’t cast [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellweaver%20Volute&quot;&gt;Spellweaver Volute&lt;/a&gt;, which copies cards you then cast (from the graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T21:27:08.573" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T21:27:08.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8922" CreationDate="2012-10-28T09:03:39.613" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quarto has been evaluated as draw if both players play optimally. There's a presentation on the result here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.rhul.ac.uk/~wouter/Talks/quarto.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.cs.rhul.ac.uk/~wouter/Talks/quarto.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quarto seems to have been originally solved by  Luv Goossens in 1998, although I'm not sure whether this was published or not.  The presentation links to this old web page by Goossens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20041012023358/http://ssel.vub.ac.be/Members/LucGoossens/quarto/quartotext.htm&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20041012023358/http://ssel.vub.ac.be/Members/LucGoossens/quarto/quartotext.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T09:10:09.433" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T09:10:09.433" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-28T11:54:24.690" Score="7" ViewCount="8122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Tau sniper I want to put on a rocky out-cliff, that would require using a non-standard base (a larger one). Is that allowed in the rules? Would it fly in a casual game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T11:22:59.353" Title="How important is base size in Warhammer 40K?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|basing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8949" CreationDate="2012-10-28T12:25:06.523" Score="5" ViewCount="17632" Body="&lt;p&gt;A love to play Betrayal at House on the Hill, it's my favourite game at the moment and I'm sure it'll stay that way for a long time. Some of my friends have complained that it gets long-winded and complicated (though I don't see that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I make this game less confusing, given that we still have unknown haunts to play through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T05:15:44.803" Title="How can I make Betrayal at House on the Hill less confusing?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8971" CreationDate="2012-10-28T12:32:40.847" Score="8" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm lost. Flummoxed and worse, confused by this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consistent fail to set up any sort of set piece, or notice when someone else is doing even the least sneaky, sneak move. I'm often in last place because I can't think tactically or strategically in this game (though in others, I'm OK). The one time I won was due to bluffing my way through as Vimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my main issue is keeping track of all the players, their pieces, and everything else. How can I get better at doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T06:05:41.993" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T11:57:29.803" Title="How can I keep track of things, in Discworld: Ankh-Morpork?" Tags="|discworld-ankh-morpork|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2012-10-28T12:45:52.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for very specific pieces and components, the answers on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/131/1678&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; provide some good advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T12:45:52.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8787" CreationDate="2012-10-28T13:46:16.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are tiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of effectiveness and efficiency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frey - 33% more actions than any other god, can excel either as pointman, support, or solo, since his play engine is self-sufficient&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thor - always present combat bonus gives great advantage for two worlds, Asgard and Jotunheim; less need for Nidavellir, Alfanheim, and Midgard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tyr - better combat ability; reroll can affect a number of enemy effects (Fenrir, Jormungand, Hel, Surt); less need for Nidavellir, Alfanheim, and Midgard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freyja - very situational advantages; otherwise, no direct efficiency bonuses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- can upgrade weapons faster than any other god, which lets other gods equip weaker versions on their turn, since gods cannot get equipment unless the next version is available, great for early attacks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- double Midgard to get over a sunken island on her turn is more cost efficient than using the Vanaheim track&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- double Niflheim to re-distribute elves and vikings quickly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- can pull off miracle saves for when three enemies cross the line for defeat conditions, by pushing back two enemies on Asgard and then using the Vanaheim track for the third, a feat that not even the mighty fighter Thor can do&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Odin - only better if he comes before Tyr in the play order, to manage enemy effects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heimdall - drains the viking pool too quickly after cleaning the white/blue bag; three enemy effects shut down his power very easily&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With fewer players, usefulness of Freyja's ability decreases, usefulness of Frey's ability increases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more players, usefulness of Frey's ability decreases, usefulness of Freyja's ability increases (due to weapon sharing restrictions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this thread on BoardGameGeek titled &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/659669/the-powers-of-the-gods-odin-awfully-unmighty-fre&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The powers of the gods - Odin awfully unmighty? Frey the best of all?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2943" LastEditorUserId="3405" LastEditDate="2012-10-28T16:06:55.480" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T16:06:55.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8933" CreationDate="2012-10-28T14:31:29.047" Score="18" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard the sympathiser in Pegasus Expansion is far more interesting to play than the one in the basic game. What makes it so different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T15:53:32.690" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T15:53:32.690" Title="Battlestar Galactica: why Pegasus sympathiser is better" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8932" CreationDate="2012-10-28T16:01:57.763" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;For context: In basic BSG, as you know, in 5-player, the ratio between humans to Cylons is 3-2. This usually results in interesting, difficult-but-not-impossible skill challenges and a tense game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, in 4- or 6-player, the sympathizer can be on either the human or Cylon team, depending on whether or not the humans have any resource in the &quot;red zone.&quot; during the Sleeper phase. While being low on a resource might seem bad, it's not as bad for the humans as being in a 2-2 or 3-3 situation. After the Sleeper phase, the game tends to be a blowout--especially if the Cylons get the sympathizer, where the humans will have enormous difficulty making enough skill challenges. The faction of the sympathizer becomes so important that savvy players will engage in a weird metagame where Galactica's resources must deliberately be sabotaged for the good of the humans!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people also feel that having a known player whose loyalty is unquestioned takes away from the drama of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, the Pegasus rules: The sympathizer is definitely a Cylon, but receives a card from the Sympathetic Agenda deck. This card determines which side the sympathizer is actually on, and furthermore gives the sympathizer a secret agenda that must be achieved for the sympathizer to win. These agendas are (mostly) tuned to create a close game where both the humans and Cylons will distrust the Sympathizer. For instance, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/513303/battlestar-galactica-pegasus-expansion&quot;&gt;Grant Mercy&lt;/a&gt; agenda requires the Humans to win, but requires Food, Population, or Morale to be at 2 or lower--if the &quot;friendly&quot; Cylon tries to advance this agenda, the humans may treat him as an enemy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only does this create closer games, but instead of the sympathizer's loyalty being unquestioned, it is instead a complete mystery up until the very end (or unless a set of very experienced players who are familiar with all the agendas suss which one the sympathizer has, I suppose.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not familiar with Pegasus, it's important to mention that the expansion also contains rules for a Cylon character infiltrating Galactica and playing more as a normal human character than a base-game Cylon just wandering around the Cylon fleet, so the question of the characters' trust or mistrust towards the Cylon becomes important. If you are interested in the details, the rulebook is &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/BSG-Pegasus-rulebook-web.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. (Sympathetic Cylon rules on p. 18, rules for infiltrating on p. 11)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-28T16:01:57.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13465" CreationDate="2012-10-28T20:41:20.897" Score="8" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family has an old edition of Empire Builder by Mayfair games, and the box I have isn't listed on Boardgame Geek's edition list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/457416/empire-builder&quot;&gt;an image of the box on that site&lt;/a&gt;. It is pre-fourth edition, as it doesn't have Mexico in it, and very little of Canada. The rulebook lists a copyright of 1982. It comes with a bunch of metal trains, the rule book is black and white, and the cards are black and white front with red 'M's on the back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2400" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T22:12:43.997" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:50:28.333" Title="What edition of Empire Builder do I have?" Tags="|crayon-rail-games|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8935" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T00:23:59.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Avalon Hill game expands Civilization to support up to 8 players on a map spanning from Babylon to the Iberian peninsula.  As players spread out on the board they can build cities, which produce trade goods.  Trade goods allow players to gain civilization advances like pottery, medicine, mining, literature, philosophy, democracy, and monotheism.  A trading phase each turn allows players to consolidate trade goods for higher values.  But watch out; buried among the trade goods are calamities that can affect the player who receives them.  And, inevitably, there is not enough land to meet everybody's needs, so conflict is sure to arise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box says this is a 6-hour game, but especially for larger numbers of players, you should budget 8-10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T00:41:40.437" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T00:41:40.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8936" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T00:23:59.400" Score="0" Body="A game of early civilization development, from the development of agriculture to the bronze age.  Each player competes to advance his civilization, gaining territory, skills, sciences, and culture." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T00:41:03.260" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T00:41:03.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8937" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T03:24:22.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Avalon Hill game for 2-6 players is a game of conquest.  Players start with two units and can end up with up to 12 (or more if they defeat other players and take their counters).  All units may move each turn, and when a unit moves into a hex it can recruit monsters to fight with it -- if it has a recruiter native to that terrain.  There's a limit on unit size, so as they grow players must split them into smaller units.  If two enemy units meet they must fight; the fight is conducted on tactical terrain maps using hand-to-hand (claw-to-claw?) combat, air combat, and magic strikes.  Most terrains provide advantages to the defenders, making the fights more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T04:08:26.550" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T04:08:26.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8938" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T03:24:22.647" Score="0" Body="Monster slug-a-thon game where players move units around, recruit terrain-based troops, and beat up each other for world domination." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T04:08:08.453" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T04:08:08.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8939" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T03:29:41.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players start with a fixed pool of tokens and can bid for anonymous nations to play.  A nation is represented by a pair of randomly-drawn tiles conveying special abilities, so no two civilizations are the same and some are definitely better than others.  Once you bring a civilization into play (by taking territories on the map) it will start to decay, as you can't add tokens to it and you'll lose some in combat as others fight you for territory.  Eventually you'll need to decide to let it go into decline -- sit out a turn and then start a new civilization on some other part of the board.  Each civilization produces victory points each turn; high score wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game was reworked by the Designer into the smash hit &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/small-world&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'small-world'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;small-world&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T04:09:27.860" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T04:09:27.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8940" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T03:29:41.033" Score="0" Body="A game of the rise and fall of ancient civilizations, reminiscent of History of the World and Advanced Civilization but much shorter than either." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T04:08:35.130" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T04:08:35.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8941" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T03:38:08.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talisman has gone through several editions.  The first and second editions both involved a basic board with a small set of characters and cards (cards control encounters, monsters, magic items, etc).  Several expansions to the second edition were published; these added characters and cards, alternate win conditions, and several auxiliary gameboards (dungeon, city, etc).  The expansions added variety and game length.  The third edition heavily revised the board, cards, and some game mechanics, and it too had several expansions.  The fourth edition is based on the second edition, with some additions from the third edition and a new board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T04:09:40.993" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T04:09:40.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8942" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T03:38:08.687" Score="0" Body="A fantasy game where player characters move around a board fighting monsters, gaining treasure and magic items, encountering special spaces, and ultimately vying to be the first to ascend to the Crown of Command to win the game." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T04:09:34.240" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T04:09:34.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8927" CreationDate="2012-10-29T11:22:59.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a grey area, but it's preferred that models be played with the bases provided with them with some exceptions for scenic bases.  Generally as long as you haven't modeled for a clear advantage(such as using a base that's 9&quot; tall) most players will be OK with it.  To be on the safe side, you should have a standard based guy to swap in for the scenic base model it it ever appears your custom base would have an effect on the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an issue a few years back at a GW sponsored GT where a Demon player who won the tournament used smaller than standard bases for his Bloodcrushers.  It was felt that this gave his particular army an unfair advantage due to some of that codex's unique rules. As a result, most tournaments will have a policy like this one from the Nova Open:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basing Policy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Models must be played on the bases provided with them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Models may    be played on scenic bases of identical size to the bases provided    with them.  If  you have a question, ask ahead of&#xA;  time. &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If your    scenic bases are smaller than they should be, be aware that you may    be asked not to  use the models at all (if the&#xA;  organizers believe you    brought them on such bases to gain an &#xA;  advantage), or to count them    as the appropriate base size. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If your scenic bases are larger than    they should be, the above (in re: smaller bases) applies as  well.     Additionally, keep in&#xA;  mind that if an opponent is able to reach one    of your larger bases &#xA;  with a shooting attack or charge, you may not    use the excuse of&#xA;  base size to prevent it.  The  corollary does NOT    apply – you may&#xA;  not gain extra range or charges due to larger bases.     In  short,&#xA;  you gain no advantages for unusual base size, but may gain&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  additional handicaps. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Skimmers must be mounted (but not necessarily    glued) on the bases provided with them, save  for situations where    the rules allow for&#xA;  / require otherwise.&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;We recognize that some    skimmer bases are largely impractical for mounting your units on;  if    you have a different basing route&#xA;  you've gone with, simply give us a    heads up ahead of  time – we’ll&#xA;  work to help ensure the comfortable    play ability and stability of&#xA;  your models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most players I know will try to conform to the big tournament guidelines. Of course, I play with a fairly competitive group that hits a few big GT's every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T11:22:59.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2012-10-29T13:37:47.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing right now at &lt;a href=&quot;http://mafiacity.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mafiacity.org&lt;/a&gt; the game is just amazing!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gameplay is amazing. Probably the best mafia mmorpg game online I ever played!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3438" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T14:26:39.337" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T14:26:39.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8969" CreationDate="2012-10-29T17:17:01.630" Score="8" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Vinci, you play a civilization for some period of time and then declare it to be &quot;in decline&quot;, meaning you sit out a turn and then start a new one.  If you go into decline too quickly you're signing up for unneeded churn, but if you wait too long your rate of gaining points drops and you fall behind.  What's a good strategy for deciding when to make this change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Factors that seem to be relevant: the queue of upcoming civiliations (though there will be some turnover before your next turn), how &quot;far along&quot; the other civilizations are toward decline, score you're currently earning and its rate of change, board position (how hard will it be to enter the board with a new civilization), and...what else?  Which of those are the most important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T15:46:49.897" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T15:48:02.253" Title="When should I send my current civilization into decline?" Tags="|vinci|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8947" CreationDate="2012-10-29T17:35:32.830" Score="12" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;While reviewing the latest changes to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;, I notice that a missed trigger is considered a Warning, but that,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judges should not intervene in a missed trigger situation unless they intend to issue a Warning or have reason to&#xA;suspect that the controller is intentionally missing his or her triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A conversation arose between a friend and I about what would happen if someone were to build a deck around purposefully forgetting his triggers. For the sake of the argument, let it be given that he's an incredibly good liar (20+ Charisma? What, wrong SE site? You mad?) and is able to convince any judge or other person at any time that it was unintentional, but that it was actually intentionally missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the day progresses (and some of these tournaments have 14+ rounds) it is inevitable that a number of his opponents will notice his, err, forgetfulness. However, the IPG doesn't seem to indicate how these infractions begin to roll up into heavier sanctions. At what point does his forgetfulness warrant a game loss, and eventually DQ? Surely after a certain number of warnings, you start having serious consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kate: You were in default when we sent you delinquency notices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peter: I thought those were just warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kate: They were warnings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I'm not advocating such a strategy. Even without ethical concerns of trying to cheat and get away with it, I think this strategy would involve purposefully selecting corner-case scenarios which probably won't happen, and that you'd be better off finding solid strategies that don't require you to hope your opponent doesn't notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T08:23:34.513" Title="How many missed triggers are necessary before you begin to have Game Losses and/or DQs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|cheating|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8946" CreationDate="2012-10-29T18:04:35.777" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same pdf referenced contains some text that shows the escalation of warnings on page 7 (2paragraphs before the start of the 'gameplay error - missed trigger' section):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A third or subsequent Warning for a Game Play Error offense in the same category should be upgraded to a Game Loss. For multi-day events, the penalty count for these infractions resets between days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T18:04:35.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8929" CreationDate="2012-10-29T21:53:24.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played this game ~10 times only, so I'm not so into the mechanics of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dynamic in general is to avoid the other objectives of being completed. Every time you play you have to check each opponents' controlled (which is the most common objective) and presence areas, and the number of conflicts on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is hard to do anything to prevent everyone else of getting $50  (but there are cards that allow you to steal money of the other players, so that's also possible) or winning before getting to the end of the deck pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I think this game is not strong on the strategy and it's more of a chaotic and fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T21:53:24.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8928" CreationDate="2012-10-29T21:54:02.153" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that your biggest problem is the haunt rules, if you've already played the games several times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to make the haunts (and their special rules) simpler is to discuss the special haunt rules with other people - preferably people who know the rules well. The Heroes, of course, get to hash out the special rules with each other and come to some sort of consensus, but the Traitor is alone and needs to muddle through things himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three things that can help here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's somebody not playing the game, have the Traitor talk it over with them. Even if they're not much of a gamer, simply discussing the rules can make things clearer. If there's nobody handy, then &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_duck_debugging&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;explain the rules to a rubber duck&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/article/ah20051201b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;updated and errata'd Traitor and Hero books from Wizards.&quot;&gt;updated Hero and Traitor books from Wizards&lt;/a&gt;.  While you're there, get the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;errata for the regular rules&quot;&gt;errata for the regular rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just relax and have fun. If there's serious confusion in the rules, make a quick ruling and work it out after the game.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're really worried, then have the whole group hash out the rules and/or check the errata, even if you reveal a few small things about the Heroes or Traitor while you're at it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your problems are with the regular game, then make two cheat-sheets: one for the regular rules, and one for the standard haunt rules (movement past enemies, combat, how the traitor &amp;amp; monsters ignore all bad effects, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T19:06:40.550" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T19:06:40.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8950" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:08:57.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/online&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'online'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt; for browser-based games, and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/computer-ai&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'computer-ai'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;computer-ai&lt;/a&gt; for algorithms used in computer-based games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:15:04.753" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:15:04.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8951" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:08:57.863" Score="0" Body="Computer-based versions of board and card games.  Computer games that do not fit that description are off-topic here; try gaming.stackexchange.com instead." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:05:13.817" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:05:13.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8952" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:39:16.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players roll dice (with limited re-rolling) to gain food, resources, workers, money, and -- oops! -- disaster points.  Workers are used to build cities (to give you more dice) and wonders (to give you victory points).  Resources and money are used to build civilization advances that give various advantages.  Disasters cost victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:06:23.363" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:06:23.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8953" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:39:16.260" Score="0" Body="A minimal abstraction of Civilization/Advanced Civilization that plays in about 20-30 minutes." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:52:29.157" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:52:29.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8954" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:42:02.500" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-29T23:42:02.500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-29T23:42:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8955" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:42:02.500" Score="0" Body="A Pandemic-like game in which players cooperate to rid the board of monsters and prevent monsterly taint from building up.  Cards govern which monsters, and how many, spawn and move; if too many reach the central city the game ends.  Players have specific roles and can acquire items during the game to help them be more effective.  For up to 4 players, takes 2-3 hours to play." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:06:09.430" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:06:09.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8956" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:44:55.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sid Meier’s Civilization: The Board Game&lt;/em&gt; is based on the video game &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civilization_IV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Civilization IV&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and published by Fantasy Flight games in 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with the Avalon Hill board game &lt;em&gt;Civilization&lt;/em&gt; (or its successor, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/advanced-civilization&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'advanced-civilization'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;advanced-civilization&lt;/a&gt;); or with &lt;em&gt;Sid Meier’s Civilization: The Boardgame&lt;/em&gt; which is based on the computer game &lt;em&gt;Civilization III&lt;/em&gt; and was published in 2002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T17:22:16.040" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T17:22:16.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8957" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-29T23:44:55.757" Score="0" Body="Board game based on the video game Civilization IV and published by Fantasy Flight games in 2010." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:46.473" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:46.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:19:17.397" Score="15" ViewCount="599" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contracting player leads a trump. As the next player I make an obvious hesitation before playing my singleton 10 of trumps. At the end of the hand my opponent, who did not call the director, complained that I made an &quot;unethical&quot; hesitation, which he took to mean I had the jack of trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does he have a case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3441" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:57:28.200" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T00:37:00.877" Title="Hesitating as bluff" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8959" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:22:58.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Computers have a long history of getting involved with board games, from Deep Blue to the Computer Go project. This tag covers all of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For questions about the games themselves (rather than the AI), see &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/computers&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'computers'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;computers&lt;/a&gt; for computer-based games and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/online&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'online'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt; for browser-based ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T02:14:29.513" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T02:14:29.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8960" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:22:58.150" Score="0" Body="Computer AI covers the algorithms that govern the way a computer plays board games." OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T00:41:16.573" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T00:41:16.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8961" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:24:26.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag covers all aspects of board game sizes, especially those with variant or unusual size, as well as how that affects play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T21:27:32.497" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T21:27:32.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8962" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:24:26.167" Score="0" Body="Effects of board size in games that have variable boards, like Tafl and Go." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T23:14:25.257" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T23:14:25.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:27:19.500" Score="9" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tafl_games#Tafl_variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;variants&lt;/a&gt; of Tafl games that involve differently sized boards. Obviously there is more to a game than its size, but how do the different variations of the board size affect play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T03:31:48.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T03:31:48.973" Title="How do different sizes of Hnefatafl play?" Tags="|hnefatafl|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-08-21T23:30:59.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8970" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:40:33.020" Score="18" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've watched the first few episodes of Battlestar Galactica, and a friend recently got the game. We love The Resistance, and I'm eager to try a similarly deceptive game with more going on than &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; deception. But, I don't want to spoil the suspense of the TV show. Do I need to watch more before I play the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T19:47:41.567" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T19:47:41.567" Title="Does the Battlestar Galactica game spoil the TV series?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9000" CreationDate="2012-10-30T00:53:42.340" Score="9" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/3486/1749&quot;&gt;&quot;What is a good opening on a 13x13 board?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; deal generally with the differences between large and medium boards. I'd like to ask more generally about how I should be thinking on a 13x13 board. I feel comfortable fighting on a 9x9 board, and generally on a 19x19 board I prefer to play for influence throughout the early game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I get confused in the middle. With a medium-sized board the center is small, which suggests a more territorial style, yet due to that same smallness, a &quot;moyo&quot; including most of a side is easy to set up, which makes me want to do that. How should I think about these differences in the fuseki?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T14:46:31.463" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T14:46:31.463" Title="How to balance influence vs territorial plays on a 13x13 board?" Tags="|go|13x13|openings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-10-30T03:26:02.060" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an ACBL tournament, &lt;strong&gt;yes, your play is improper.&lt;/strong&gt;. In fact, hesitating in this situation is specifically called out as unacceptable. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/laws/proprieties.htm&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt;, in the section under Proprieties: (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A player may not attempt to mislead an opponent by means of remark or gesture, through the haste or hesitancy of a call or play (&lt;strong&gt;as in hesitating before playing a singleton&lt;/strong&gt;), or by the manner in which the call or play is made.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T03:32:36.393" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T03:32:36.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8964" CreationDate="2012-10-30T03:30:08.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; I will not link to specific examples because that would defeat the purpose of not spoiling, but the the Crises cards encountered, character abilities,and still-frames chosen to illustrate the cards contain major spoilers as to events, identities, and loyalties of various characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have seen all of Season 1, you are clear to play the base game. I don't remember how far in the series the Pegasus and Exodus expansions span.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T03:30:08.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8964" CreationDate="2012-10-30T03:43:07.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base game contains several spoilers that are not completely revealed until you finish the first season, and a couple of episodes into Season 2. If you have watched the mini series, and the first disk of Season 2.0 you will be.fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Battlestar Galactica expansions contain spoilers that go well into the 4th season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for some specifics (SPOILERS)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; Cylon Sympathizer card image, Helo character card, Adama is an Admiral....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T12:50:52.137" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T12:50:52.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8945" CreationDate="2012-10-30T09:22:00.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, there is no perfect answer to this question, or else the game wouldn't be fun at all for anyone. But…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If you guess that the next turn, you won't make more points than this turn, no need to move, then it is preferable to use this turn to decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If you spot a &quot;perfect civilization&quot; (for the given situation) in the queue and need to take it before anyone gets the same idea, go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some trouble answering your question with a straight answer for one reason: this aspect of the game is purely second guessing; whatever you do depends of what the others will do and vice-versa. Having a neighbour that wants to destroy your civilization or being the border line between two enemies is very different (I am not speaking about pure strategy here but about the more or less logical desires of the players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to say: no, there is no perfect strategy, but points 1) and 2) may be good hints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T15:48:02.253" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T15:48:02.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8964" CreationDate="2012-10-30T09:25:43.333" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absolutely&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Very) broadly speaking, the base game spoils Season 1, Pegasus spoils Season 2 (and the start of Season 3) and Exodus spoils Seasons 3 and 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least one exception to this that I can remember is that one Pegasus character's card spoils an event in Season 4. (Spoiler follows)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; Dualla's disadvantage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I've played with multiple people who were watching the series at the same time. As long as you're roughly half-way through the first season, you should be (mostly) fine for the base set (as long as you don't read too much flavour text!). I'd hold off on the expansions until you've seen a lot more though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T13:46:10.933" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T13:46:10.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8929" CreationDate="2012-10-30T09:46:51.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the best ways to see people sneaking up on their victory conditions is to think like them. Here are the win conditions and some tell-tale signs for which victories they might be chasing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Areas controlled by a majority&lt;/strong&gt;. This is the most common win condition, so you should always keep an eye on this. It's useful to tot-up after a player's turn when they've gained one or more new majorities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Areas with a piece present&lt;/strong&gt;. A great tell-tale sign that the player is Vetinari is that they're placing lots of individual pieces (especially in non-empty areas, where the piece does not give them a majority). Cards that move pieces are also useful for Vetinari who can turn one &quot;controlled&quot; area into two quite subtly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Money&lt;/strong&gt;. Chrysoprase needs a lot of money, but don't forget that buildings count as assets (and are harder to lose). Players who buy a lot of buildings tend to be using them to consolidate their money as well as people who just have a huge pile in front of them. A great starting move for Chrysoprase is to try to get an early building that generates money (though that will benefit most players).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trouble&lt;/strong&gt;. The Dragon King loves chaos in the streets, so watch out for people who play pieces into territories they have no chance of winning and where trouble would be added. Also, be wary of players who repeatedly discard Watch cards that reduce trouble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running out the deck&lt;/strong&gt;. Vimes can be a tough one to watch, and you shouldn't worry too much about him. The best way to beat Vimes is to win after all! Still, if you want to spot Vimes, you should look out for people who seem happy to tie territories without ever controlling them and players who are discarding and drawing a lot of cards. &lt;strike&gt;(Discarding the Time Monks - which shuffles the discard back into the deck - is a great one to watch out for too, because it can vastly increase the &quot;deck size&quot; depending on when it's played and most other players would be happy to play it.)&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly a general tip: don't forget that each player has multiple opponents. If you notice that someone might be close to winning with a win condition, especially if they would win at the start of their next turn, don't stay quiet! Let it become the group's problem to stop them from winning instead of just yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T11:57:29.803" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T11:57:29.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8929" CreationDate="2012-10-30T10:26:50.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing to do is just try to keep track of who is controlling which areas. Most other win conditions can be achieved easier by controlling more areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look out for tell tale signs that they are another personality, such as Vetinari creeping across the board, but you should still be trying to disrupt their plans by reducing the amount of controlled areas they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can keep an eye on who controls which segments and who is setup to take segments you should be able to keep on top of the other players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3420" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T10:26:50.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9060" CreationDate="2012-10-30T13:58:51.757" Score="7" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight forward really: What are the strengths and weaknesses of each Prize? What play styles do they complement well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, apart from the obvious (late in the game), when should I take a Duchy instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T09:14:06.187" Title="What should I consider when selecting a Prize to take with my Tournament?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-cornucopia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8973" CreationDate="2012-10-30T15:09:28.830" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fair amount of the time, Followers is going to be the strongest prize. If the board doesn't have another way to give Curses, and you are getting to choose a prize relatively quickly, giving out the only Curses in the game should have a pretty big impact. Also, bringing your opponent down to a 3-card hand will make it more difficult for him to buy those important Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, Trusty Steed tends to be quite strong. Be sure to think about all the options that it offers; it's quite common to just choose +2 Cards +2 Actions, but that in itself isn't all that great... it's a level 2 City, and Cities are only good when you get a lot of them. But all the options have their place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the others are more situational:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Princess can be necessary if there's no other +Buy card.&#xA;Trusty Steed can be necessary if there's no other +2 Actions card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I'd ever take Bag of Gold or Diadem as the first prize. But either of them can be good if other prizes are already gone. Bag of Gold is good mostly in a game towards the end when you need a little more boost to get the last or last couple Provinces. I rarely see Diadem worth more than 2 or 3, and when it is, you probably already have a deck with enough money anyway. However, I'll often choose it because I need that extra 2 or 3 this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T15:09:28.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2012-10-30T15:16:32.577" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good to hear that there are more people who have the trait of naturally ending up as the game explainer/teacher. I quite often find myself in a similar situation. Or I am the sort of living rulebook that can be queried any time during the game. When explaining a game to new players I tend to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Explain the goal of the game first. &quot;You need to acquire this or&#xA;that, and the possible ways to do so are x, y and z.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then I explain&#xA;the elementary rules that are necessary to play a round of the game.&#xA;Without the knowledge of these rules you couldn't even begin your&#xA;turn. And I leave out any specific rules and subjective aspects,&#xA;like what is the wisest decision in which situation.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I suggest&#xA;playing a few rounds as a &quot;Game of trail and error&quot;, I deliberately&#xA;make certain errors to explain why it is wrong, and I deliberately&#xA;make wise choices to show the new players what the strategic and&#xA;tactical choices could be. The other players play their turns and make errors which I then explain, and make good choice which I then comment on. During my turns I try to create a scenario for all of the&#xA;specific rules. I usually start the trial and error game saying that&#xA;we are going to play for example 5 rounds, and see who is closest to&#xA;the goal after that. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that we start the real game and players&#xA;still continue ask me question during their turns. But since&#xA;they are fairly experienced now, they don't give their positions&#xA;away when asking questions, and I usually can answer them so that there is no advantage for anyone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T15:16:32.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-10-30T16:01:15.393" Score="6" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;We'll be pulling Junta off the shelf for the first time in years, and our group will consist of players who haven't played since the last time years ago, and players who have never played it at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a couple obvious things for setup - separated cards and chits into separate zipbags for ease of finding things. What other things can I do to help the game go smoothly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: worth mentioning that we're expecting 8-10 people, so we plan to use the extra positions (Foreign Minister, Farm &amp;amp; Labor, Secretary of War).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T23:50:19.153" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T23:50:19.153" Title="What are good tips and suggestions for first-time Junta players?" Tags="|teaching|junta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8977" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-30T17:26:25.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A medium-sized 13x13 board is frequently seen as a way to transition beginners from 9x9 board to the full 19x19 board. Like the 9x9 board, 13x13 games are still played by advanced players who are looking for a shorter game or some variety. The 13x13 board offers more complexity than a 9x9 and allows more strategy into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T19:41:48.767" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T19:41:48.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8978" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-30T17:26:25.157" Score="0" Body="Go played on a 13x13 sized board." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T18:58:12.967" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T18:58:12.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8979" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-30T22:11:47.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the games are based on real geography -- Empire Builder for the US (later augmented by North American Rails), EuroRails for Europe, Nippon Rails, India Rails, etc.  Two are extra-terrestrial and expeculative, Lunar Rails and Mars Rails; these add the idea of a &quot;3D&quot; map (disks with connection points along their edges).  Iron Dragon is set in a fantasy land and adds the concept of train &quot;foremen&quot; who give different abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T23:30:30.077" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T23:30:30.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8980" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-30T22:11:47.970" Score="0" Body="A family of rail-building games where players draw track on the board, use that track to fulfill delivery orders, and use the money they earn to expand their rail system.  Games include Empire Builder, EuroRails, Iron Dragon, and several more." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-30T23:30:35.880" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T23:30:35.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8976" CreationDate="2012-10-30T22:25:51.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess the best thing you could do is to make sure there is at least one person really familiar with the rules, ideally someone who have played this game not so long ago. It's great to hear you are making effort to make the game more enjoyable for other players, I would like play a game with such game host. So, with your attitude I would say you're half way there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, I think the best thing you can do is to learn the rules really well, try going over them in your head (prepare yourself for explaining the rules). If possible, try to play the game yourself a few times before the event. I tried to find you a place to play Junta online, but all i got is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.junta-online.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PBEM version&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.historygamer.com/2011/01/30/junta-how-to-play-this-fun-board-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; seems to me as a good rules refresher for Junta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-30T22:25:51.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8984" CreationDate="2012-10-30T22:46:20.783" Score="1" ViewCount="4715" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the exact dimensions and weight of the bug pieces used in the game Hive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are they made of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T15:30:40.170" LastActivityDate="2020-04-27T05:23:33.537" Title="Weight and dimensions of Hive game pieces?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6004" CreationDate="2012-10-31T03:30:57.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a job for peer pressure.  Perhaps the other players should have to vote on whether any particular performance is sufficient, with an understanding that doing the same old thing won't suffice.  Sing a new song, make up some new bellydance move, improvise a new reason for a tantrum... if players aren't doing it on their own, apply social pressure.  It doesn't have to be &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt;, just new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've never played Ren Faire, but I've seen games of Once Upon a Time get stale until the group applied social pressure to make people actually do something with the cards they play instead of just saying &quot;and there was a prince there, and a horse, and a robber, and...&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T03:30:57.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8982" CreationDate="2012-10-31T06:51:09.763" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies by edition. There are at least 4 versions of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 1 was stickered wooden pieces; I do not know the size, but I suspect them to be rather close to the Bakelite. At least two different sticker sets were used by Gen42 games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 2 was bakelite pieces, hexagons 37mm face to face, and 12mm thick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 3, &quot;Hive Pocket&quot; is also bakelite pieces, hexagons 24mm face to face, and 9.5mm thick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Version 4, &quot;Hive Carbon&quot; is the same size pieces as the second version, but is black and white markings and tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lack a scale accurate enough to measure the mass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boardgamegeek.com has, on the hive entry, a table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Item                         Hive    Hive Pocket&#xA;Tile Width Flat to Flat      38 mm   25 mm&#xA;Tile Height                  12 mm   10 mm&#xA;Weight of 26 tiles           600 g   200 g&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1216544/gen-four-two&quot;&gt;On one of the images&lt;/a&gt;, it shows 38x12mm and 25x10mm for the bakelite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T06:51:09.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8976" CreationDate="2012-10-31T12:01:37.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First time playing, everyone has to use a cheesy spanish accent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Meester Prezidente, joo haz all deez monies! Geef me monies, hefe, and I protect joo!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2812" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T12:01:37.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8987" CreationDate="2012-10-31T15:55:31.300" Score="11" ViewCount="1736" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's say we just started Power Grid game for 4 players: A, B, C and D. We will be focusing on &lt;code&gt;Step 1st&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;Phase 2nd&lt;/code&gt;, which is the first &lt;strong&gt;Auction Power Plants&lt;/strong&gt; phase in the game. We have (randomly) determined initial player order, which we can assume is now ABCD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exception: In the first round of the game, each player &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; buy a power&#xA;  plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so let's assume that this is what happens in the first round's Auction Phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A selects Power Plant, D wins the first auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B selects Power Plant, B wins the auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C selects Power Plant, C wins the auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, this would be D's turn to select the Power Plant, except he has already bought one, so he cannot bid nor offer a plant at auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a player has purchased a power plant in a round, he cannot bid in&#xA;  another auction in the same round, nor can he offer a plant at&#xA;  auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean we are back to A, and he selects Power Plant as the last player this round and therefore buys it at a starting price? Or was he obligated to choose plant again after D won the first auction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: I was quoting &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Official Rules found on RioGrandeGames.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T20:20:18.837" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T20:20:18.837" Title="First Auction Power Plant in Power Grid?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8986" CreationDate="2012-10-31T16:05:51.943" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;After D won the first auction, Player A is obligated to choose a plant again. You may have missed this on page 3 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the auctioning player wins the auction and gets the power plant, the next player in turn order takes his turn at offering a power plant for auction, if he has not already purchased a power plant this round. If he has, the next player in turn order may start an auction, and so on. &lt;strong&gt;When a player other than the player who started the auction wins the auction, the auctioning player may choose a new plant to auction from the actual market or pass.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the exception says everyone &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; buy a power plant first round, Player A may not pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9IFZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;You Shall Not Pass&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T16:15:49.620" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T16:15:49.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8989" CreationDate="2012-10-31T16:18:41.813" Score="21" ViewCount="14391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to play a game called Words With Friends, which is a freenium version of Scrabble. I thought it was however functionally the same. However, I've just seen that Zynga, the creators of the game, have released a boardgame version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fiQQm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of the Words With Friends board game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this compare to Scrabble? What are the differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-01T16:29:56.643" LastActivityDate="2021-04-10T23:16:30.700" Title="How is the board game version of Words With Friends different from Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|words-with-friends|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8988" CreationDate="2012-10-31T17:03:59.533" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The board layout - the positioning of the bonus squares is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Words With Friends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AemmE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Words With Friends&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrabble:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RqkE9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scrabble&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the distribution and points scored for the letters in &lt;a href=&quot;http://ravensgift.com/words-with-friends-faq-and-letter-distributions.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Words With Friends&lt;/a&gt; is slightly different to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrabble_letter_distributions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;. For example, B and C score 3 points in Scrabble, but 4 points in Words With Friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T23:28:54.967" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T23:28:54.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8991" CreationDate="2012-10-31T17:30:07.060" Score="8" ViewCount="1010" Body="&lt;p&gt;Small World has been described as a re-implementation of Vinci, but I've heard that there are some non-trivial differences.  How do these two games differ in terms of rules/mechanics and feel of play?  (I'm not concerned with the change from Europe to a fantasy map &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; it affects play.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm familiar with Vinci but have never played Small World.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T17:51:38.170" Title="What are the differences between Vinci and Small World?" Tags="|small-world|vinci|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8990" CreationDate="2012-10-31T17:51:38.170" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an excellent comparison of the two &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/398713/vinci-vs-small-world-the-definitive-guide-with-pic&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  Some highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vinci has one big set of powers and you draw two for each race.  Small World splits them into Race Powers and Abilities, preventing some combinations from occurring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vinci charges you two points for each race you skip over, Small World only 1.  This modifies the dynamics of which races you might choose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The end game conditions in Vinci are reaching a certain number of points, making the length variable.  Small World has a fixed number of turns based on number of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small World has different maps for different numbers of players, and you always get the same number of tokens for a race/power combo.  Vinci only had one map, but varied the number of tokens a power combo started with based on the number of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small World adds a reinforcement dice which gives you a random chance to take over a single province that you wouldn't be able to conquer normally at the end of your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T17:51:38.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8992" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="8994" CreationDate="2012-10-31T17:55:42.880" Score="9" ViewCount="2264" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent casual game, an opponent controlled a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Captivating%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Captivating Vampire&lt;/a&gt; and had enough untapped Vampire creatures in play to use its ability.  I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadeye%20Navigator&quot;&gt;Deadeye Navigator&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and on my turn I played a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Craterhoof%20Behemoth&quot;&gt;Craterhoof Behemoth&lt;/a&gt;, soulbonding it with the Deadeye Navigator.  Due to an abundance of mana, I also chose to activate its soulbond ability to exile the Craterhoof Behemoth and return it to the battlefield several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of this process, my opponent declared his intent to tap five vampires and activate Captivating Vampire's ability to gain control of my Craterhoof Behemoth, preventing me from activating its ability.  We were unsure of how to proceed from there, as we should both theoretically be given the opportunity to react to each others activated abilities by activating our own creatures' activated abilities, each of which were at odds with the other in regards to who controlled the creature once everything resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain to me how this scenario should have played out, or if there may have been different results depending on when and how each ability was activated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1075" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T18:10:53.637" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T21:54:11.773" Title="How do Captivating Vampire and Deadeye Navigator abilities interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8992" CreationDate="2012-10-31T18:33:26.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Works like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He taps his vamps and targets your fatty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You respond by exiling the fatty and him coming back in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His ability resolves, but because its target is no longer in play (it's a different instance) it fizzles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use that ability as evasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T18:33:26.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8992" CreationDate="2012-10-31T19:02:50.723" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see 2 questions to be answered here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who ends up controlling the Craterhoof Behemoth?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which creatures gain how much +X/+X?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, whenever you have complex situations, it's important to remember how the Stack works. Any spell anyone casts, and every ability that is brought into effect somehow uses the stack. So whenever you and your opponent respond to each other with instant-speed spells or abilities, they are put on the stack, and only when neither of you want to play anything, the stack starts resolving in &lt;strong&gt;reverse&lt;/strong&gt; order, i.e. the spell or ability that was put on the stack &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; will resolve &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you control only the Deadeye Navigator and the Craterhoof Behemoth. Your opponent activates his vampire ability (VA), and in response you activate the Soulbound ability (SA) 3 times. That gives us the following stack, resolving from right to left:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VA-SA-SA-SA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SA is removed from the stack and resolves: Your Behemoth bounces and your creatures get +2/+2. You may or may not re-bind your creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next 2 SA fail to do anything, because the creature they were referring to no longer exists: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the 2nd and 3rd instance of SA have lost their reference and therefore do nothing. They are countered as they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VA fails for the same reason: Its target, the Behemoth, has changed zones, and even though it returned, it's still a different object. Therefore VA has lost all its targets and is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result 1&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You control the Behemoth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All your creatures have +2/+2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Behemoth has summoning sickness (new object), but for him that doesn't matter because of Haste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I assume you imagined a different result: You wanted to bounce the Behemoth several times, so your creatures would get the +X/+X bonus several times. You can do that easily, but for 100% correct play, you would have to time it a bit differently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your opponent puts VA on the stack, you respond with only 1 instance of SA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: VA-SA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you both pass so the stack starts resolving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SA is removed from the stack and resolves: Your behemoth is exiled and immediately returns. You bind your creatures again. All your creatures get +2/+2 until EOT. Your Navigator is 7/7 and your Behemoth is also 7/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: VA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players have the opportunity to cast spells and abilities. You choose to activate SA again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: VA-SA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SA is removed from the stack and resolves: Your behemoth is exiled and immediately returns, but without his previous +2/+2, because it's a new object, as discussed before. All your creatures get +2/+2 until EOT. Navigator 9/9, Behemoth 7/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: VA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players have the opportunity to cast spells and abilities. You choose to activate SA again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: VA-SA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SA is removed from the stack and resolves: Your behemoth is exiled and immediately returns, but without his previous +2/+2, because it's a new object. All your creatures get +2/+2 until EOT. Navigator 11/11, Behemoth 7/7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, VA is removed from the stack and resolves: It fails to do anything, for the same reason as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Result 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Deadeye Navigator gets +6/+6, your Craterhoof Behemoth +2/+2. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You control the Behemoth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Behemoth has summoning sickness (new object), but for him that doesn't matter because of Haste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T19:44:27.743" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T19:44:27.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8995" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-10-31T20:55:09.680" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T20:55:09.680" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T20:55:09.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8996" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-10-31T20:55:09.680" Score="0" Body="Refers to a type of playing piece (plastic pyramids in several colors and three sizes) and the family of games designed to use those pieces, such as Zendo." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-10-31T21:27:40.703" LastActivityDate="2012-10-31T21:27:40.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-01T01:06:36.250" Score="8" ViewCount="2895" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing as a Digger, when is the best time to share the knowledge about one of the destination cards with the other players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the digger tell other players this information immediately to avoid suspicion of being the saboteur? Or maybe it's better if he waits at least until the first saboteur is revealed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategy should one use to take best advantage of the knowledge gained from looking at one of the destination cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T16:22:44.580" LastActivityDate="2020-11-13T21:22:38.440" Title="When to reveal what you saw using the Map card in Saboteur?" Tags="|saboteur|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="8999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8998" CreationDate="2012-11-01T01:37:31.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there is no clear answer to that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group tends to be suspicious, no matter what you say, they will not believe it, doesn't matter what you say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have been a saboteur before, the first reaction is not to trust what you say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you say something, and then somebody else checks the same card and says something different, usually it's assumed that the first person was lying. If the second person says the same, both can be saboteurs and the second is just following your lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had bad luck with your cards, and you have to discard, or to block something, even one of the less useful roads, you may be seen as saboteur and no one is going to believe you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can continue with more examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final thought is, it depends on you and the group playing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T08:50:00.850" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T08:50:00.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8965" CreationDate="2012-11-01T02:00:54.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Territory is more important on a 13X13 board than on a 19x19 board, because it's smaller. Therefore, a given chunk of territory is more valuable. That is because the corner josekis give a &quot;fixed&quot; amount of territory, while the resulting outer walls are worth less (and overlap more) on the 13 x13 board. So you should play a &quot;lower&quot; (near the edge) more territorial game on the smaller board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like to play this kind of game because it &quot;corrupts&quot; my thinking for the larger, regular board. The one advantage I see for 13x13 is that you get to the endgame faster (and it is a disproportionately larger part of the game, thereby giving you more &quot;practice&quot; in this part of the game. Endgame and opening are more important with the smaller board, while the middle game shrinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T02:00:54.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5521" CreationDate="2012-11-01T02:13:30.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never had this experience with &quot;kids,&quot; only teenagers and older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to get PEOPLE interested in Go is to let them watch you play it. During the game, you might make comments like, &quot;I'm trying to chase/capture my opponent's stone's&quot; or, &quot;I'm trying to limit his influence, see the wall of stones he has.&quot; At appropriate points in the game, say &quot;Atari,&quot; and point out what constitutes a capture. Or engage in a &quot;ko&quot; fight, and explain that players can't repeat moves in a ko, without making an intervening move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you need to let the audience (including children) sort itself out. Some won't be interested, some will be very interested, and some will develop an interest at a later date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T02:13:30.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7085" CreationDate="2012-11-01T02:36:05.803" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://rgconferences.com/proceed/acct11/pdf/258.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Solving Quantum Tic-Tac-Toe&lt;/a&gt;, Ishizeki and Matsuura use a computer to search the game space to find solutions, but don't specifically speak to strategy. However, there are a few strategies we can glean from their results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go for a half-point victory, not a full point victory. In their search they found the first player, X, cannot guarantee a win by being the only player to get three in a row. But a win can be guaranteed where X and O both have 3 in a row, but X has the lower maximal subscript.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As player X, make your first marks split into opposite corners. If X plays perfectly, a half-point win can be guaranteed by playing the first pair of marks, X&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt;, in opposite corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't play as O, the second player. Obviously this is not a fair strategy or one you're likely be able to follow in a real game. But since X can guarantee a half-point victory, it follows O can't guarantee a victory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is a guaranteed path to victory for X, the obvious strategy is to, after playing the first pair in opposite corners, always respond to a move by O by playing such that you are still guaranteed victory (or for O, always play the move that gives you the most options for victory, and hope X makes a mistake). Unfortunately the authors didn't include all of the paths in their search, so it would be necessary to reproduce their results to apply this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have tried to glean some strategies from the one game they did include in the paper (see Figure 5. I've broken this out into each move in the image below):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid entanglements. By not creating a cycle you avoid giving your opponent the advantage of choosing where your marks are fixed. Of course, if you can make a cycle such that either choice is a win for you, like the placement of X&lt;sub&gt;9&lt;/sub&gt;, then you should do so. See both the resolution of X&lt;sub&gt;9&lt;/sub&gt; and the alternate resolution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play at least one mark of a pair in an empty square. This increases the chances of having the lowest maximum subscript in a tie breaker, as on each play you add another square where you have the mark with the lowest subscript. X does this up until the last move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play to increase the number of probable wins. For example on Move 3, after playing X&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; in opposite corners, play one X&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; in the middle and the other in a corner. When one X&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; collapses, the other X&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt; that is now fixed will be in line with either X&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt;. The same is true for X&lt;sub&gt;3&lt;/sub&gt; in relation to X&lt;sub&gt;1&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't play on your own marks. X never does this until the final move when there is no other option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't let your last mark be part of your three in a row. Of course your last move has the highest subscript, and can make you lose the tie-breaker. Making this actually happen may require some additional planning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wpwop.png&quot; alt=&quot;Breakdown of Figure 5 game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="389" LastEditorUserId="389" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T03:32:56.807" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T03:32:56.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1147" CreationDate="2012-11-01T02:47:13.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this problem too.  Placing the meeple on its back (rather than standing up) doesn't work for us because we use that for farmers (to resolve ambiguity with adjacent placements like roads).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't mind permanent alterations, several suggestions have already been made.  If you want your changes to be more temporary, consider a bit of tape of a contrasting color on the front and back.  Duct tape comes in small rolls in all sorts of colors these days, and even though duct tape is sticky, it can be scrubbed off of a polished wooden surface like the meeples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could replace the big meeples with similarly-colored pieces from a different game, like the pawns from Pandemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T02:47:13.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9004" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T04:07:54.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hive is a highly addictive strategic game for two players that is not restricted by a board and can be played anywhere on any flat surface. Hive is made up of twenty two pieces, eleven black and eleven white, resembling a variety of creatures each with a unique way of moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T04:10:44.463" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T04:10:44.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9005" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T04:07:54.593" Score="0" Body="Hive is a highly addictive strategic game for two players that is not restricted by a board and can be played anywhere on any flat surface. Hive is made up of twenty two pieces, eleven black and eleven white, resembling a variety of creatures each with a unique way of moving." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T04:10:40.487" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T04:10:40.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9006" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T04:17:37.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players compete as the corrupt power elite families of a fictional parody of a stereotypical banana republic (specifically &lt;em&gt;Republica de los Bananas&lt;/em&gt;) trying to get as much money as possible into their Swiss bank accounts before the foreign aid money runs out. Fighting in the republic's capital during recurrent coup attempts encompasses most of the game's equipment, rules and playtime. This game-within-the-game is however actually tangential to the players' main goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T05:05:19.493" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T05:05:19.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9007" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T04:17:37.333" Score="0" Body="Players compete as the corrupt power elite families of Republica de los Bananas trying to get as much money as possible into their Swiss bank accounts before the foreign aid money runs out. Fighting in the republic's capital during recurrent coup attempts encompasses most of the game's equipment, rules and playtime. This game-within-the-game is however actually tangential to the players' main goal." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T05:05:30.193" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T05:05:30.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8998" CreationDate="2012-11-01T13:30:45.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have just looked a destination card I often afterwards put a road card that either: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Obviously leads towards the destination card that I just looked at, or &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Obviously leads away from that card. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is then up to my fellow players to decide whether they trust my obvious move or not, based on whether they think I am a digger or a saboteur. I noticed that this is often enough information for the other players to understand what you have seen on the destination card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a better way that does not render you suspicious. If you give too much information away at a certain point, people will always become sceptical. However if you let them infer the &quot;right&quot; information themselves, they might believe that you didn't intend to give all information. And people consider their own &quot;discoveries&quot; more credible than information that was chucked into their laps. Even if you planned it that way. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T12:01:46.103" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T12:01:46.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2106" CreationDate="2012-11-01T16:34:26.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing this since it showed up. The catapult among other extensions is one of the best improvements to the game. Mostly because you can exchange a meeple against yours, or  strike opponent's meeple(s) from the board or just score points (catching, shooting  closest to circus tile you just placed), Especially exchange of meeples turns the rather stagnant play into an action pack thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Get rid of your prejudice and give it a shot. Besides the extra tiles added with the Catapult (i.e. those roads!!) are wicked. I guess only the princess and dragon or bazaars extensions had better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3452" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T16:34:26.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2012-11-01T17:15:18.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see you ask about the origins of Hnefatafl, which are obviously hard to trace since the Vikings had effectively no written history.  It is possible that Chaturanga, a precursor of Chess, had some influence; it was certainly played in Persia and Iraq at the time when Viking traders reached there. There really isn't much likeness, though, particularly since it is believed that Chaturanga queens moved like Chess kings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Edit: it is entirely possible that these traders' tafl influenced the transition from Chaturanga to Chess, but there's no evidence, and not likely to be any.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More likely is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nine_Men%27s_Morris&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nine Mens Morris&lt;/a&gt;, a game with visible similarities to tafl, and which was well known throughout the Roman Empire.  (An early version, Three Mens Morris, was known in Ancient Egypt.) I would guess that the long winter evenings in Scandinavia also had something to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T23:14:58.033" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T23:14:58.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9011" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T18:37:29.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somnium is a push-your-luck card game introduced as a mini-game in Fall From Heaven II, a popular mod for the Civilization 4 PC game. Somnium is played with a deck of 54 cards: 3-7 in ten suits (Angels, Devils, Pentacles, Staves, Suns, Moons, Towers, Dragons, Swords and Cups) as well as three Fool cards and a Death card. The objective is to gather cards so that your set of highest-of-each-suit sum beats that of your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, you draw cards one at a time. In between each draw you may choose to end your turn and &quot;bank&quot; the cards drawn so far, but if you hit the Death card or turn up any two of the same suit, all drawn cards are discarded. The Fool cards allow you to steal a card from your opponent. In the context of the computer game, you stand to win a minor diplomacy bonus towards other leaders by besting them in a tournament game, but will suffer a likewise relation penalty by losing such a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game Designer: Derek &quot;Kael&quot; Paxton &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original programmer: Stéphane &quot;Sto&quot; Nadry &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Art: Stephanie Pui-Mun Law and Jason Engle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T09:47:31.693" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T09:47:31.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9012" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T18:37:29.997" Score="0" Body="Somnium (2 players, 10 minutes) is a push-your-luck card game introduced as a mini-game in Fall From Heaven II, a popular mod for the Civilization 4 PC game. Somnium is played with a deck of 54 cards: 3-7 in ten suits as well as three Fool cards and a Death card. The objective is to gather cards so that your set of highest-of-each-suit sum beats that of your opponent." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T09:47:21.773" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T09:47:21.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9013" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T19:41:52.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twilight Imperium is a series of epic empire-building games of interstellar conflict, trade, and struggle for power.  This tag is for the entire series of the game.  Please add the the version specific tag (&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/twilight-imperium-3rd-edition&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;twilight-imperium-3rd-edition&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;twilight-imperium-3rd-edition&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/twilight-imperium-4th-edition&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;twilight-imperium-4th-edition&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;twilight-imperium-4th-edition&lt;/a&gt;) for questions about a particular version.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:26:46.360" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:26:46.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9014" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T19:41:52.603" Score="0" Body="Twilight Imperium is a series of epic empire-building games of interstellar conflict, trade, and struggle for power.  This tag is for the entire series of the game.  Please add the the version specific tag  for questions about a particular version." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:26:12.020" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:26:12.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9015" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T20:11:46.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Night on Earth, The Zombie Game is a survival horror board game that pits small-town Heroes head-to-head against a limitless horde of Zombies (players can play on the Hero team or as the Zombies). A modular board randomly determines the layout of the town at the start of each game and there are several different scenarios to play, adding lots of replayability. One or two players control the zombies, while the rest control heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T21:31:52.667" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T21:31:52.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9016" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T20:11:46.653" Score="0" Body="A survival horror board game that pits small-town Heroes head-to-head against a limitless horde of Zombies. Modular board and several different scenarios to play are adding lots of replayability. Fast Paced Game Play with Easy To Learn rules allows players to jump right into the action, while Strategic Depth and Strong Cooperative Play keeps the game interesting. One or two players control the zombies, while the rest control heroes." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T21:54:33.003" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T21:54:33.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9019" CreationDate="2012-11-01T20:20:33.907" Score="6" ViewCount="11924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to code a program that suggests what to do depending on the situation of a Rummikub game. More about Rummikub: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rummikub&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rummikub&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Wikipedia's explanation, I quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a player has made his initial meld, he can, on each turn, &lt;strong&gt;play one or more tiles&lt;/strong&gt; from his rack, making or adding to groups and/or runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never actually played Rummikub (and I seriously don't want to try the online multiplayer game), so here's my question: after the initial meld, if I can do multiple things (say, put a &lt;strong&gt;Run&lt;/strong&gt; and also a &lt;strong&gt;Group&lt;/strong&gt;), can I do them &lt;strong&gt;both in the same turn&lt;/strong&gt;? Or am I limited to one &quot;move&quot; per turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3454" LastActivityDate="2021-02-18T23:19:53.480" Title="After the initial meld, can I do multiple moves in the same turn?" Tags="|rummikub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9017" CreationDate="2012-11-01T20:24:11.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do as much legal &quot;moves&quot; as you like in the same turn. After making the initial meld, rest of this player's turn is treated just like any other turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you can do in your turn (multiple times):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;add tile to existing group/run&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put set of tiles creating new group/run&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;break existing set (group/run) into separate tiles, as long as all of them will be left on the table at the end of your turn, and each one will be part of some legal set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;obtain Joker, by putting the tile it's replacing in the Joker's place on the table. Remember that you can't take any tiles from the table, so the Joker has to be used in some way before you finish your turn!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you said you're not interested in playing the game online, but this seems like the easiest way to grasp this. I feel that explanation like this is much more confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want, please take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummikub.com/Themes/rummikub/info/Rummikub_Static_Pages/Rules.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T20:36:20.087" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T20:36:20.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9020" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T21:04:43.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A game based on the traditional middle-eastern game of Okey. First created in the 1930's and sold in hand produced versions until the late 1970's. Rummikub won the 1980 Spiel des Jahres prize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to the Rummy that you play with cards - you try to get rid of all your tiles by forming numbers into runs of 3 tiles or more, or 3 to 4 of a kind, with colors corresponding to suits. However, all played tiles become communal and can be rearranged and added to by any player. The game may start rather uneventfully, but as more and more tiles enter play, the options for upcoming turns become complex, challenging, and exciting. (2-4 players, 30 minutes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:21:45.843" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:21:45.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9021" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T21:04:43.617" Score="0" Body="Game based on the traditional Middle-Eastern game of Okey. You try to get rid of all your tiles by forming numbers into runs of 3 or more, or groups of 3-4 of a kind. Played tiles become communal and can be rearranged and added to by any player. (2-4 players, 30 minutes)" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T01:20:52.173" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T01:20:52.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9022" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T21:51:48.430" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T21:51:48.430" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T21:51:48.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9023" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T21:51:48.430" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T21:51:48.430" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T21:51:48.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9024" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T22:22:38.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;GOSU plays like a hybrid of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'race-for-the-galaxy'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;race-for-the-galaxy&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'magic-the-gathering'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt; with each player trying to recruit an army of goblins made up of soldiers, heroes, magicians, and other classes – then swing it into action against the other players. Five clans of goblins are represented on the game cards, with goblins in one of three ranks. To build an army, a player must first recruit level I goblins, then build on those goblins with level II and finally level III. Those higher level goblins can be played only if a lower level goblin is of the same clan, and since goblins of the same clan have similar abilities or powers that mesh well, players tend to specialize in who they recruit to their ranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T00:48:18.077" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T00:48:18.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9025" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T22:22:38.183" Score="0" Body="In GOSU, players try to recruit an army of goblins made up of soldiers, heroes, magicians, and other classes – then swing it into action against the other players. Five clans of goblins are represented on the game cards, with goblins in one of three levels. To recruit higher level goblins a lower level goblins of the same clan are needed. Players tend to specialize in who they recruit to their ranks, since goblins of the same clan have similar abilities." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-01T22:29:15.433" LastActivityDate="2012-11-01T22:29:15.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9026" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-01T22:47:05.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boggle is a timed word game in which players have 3 minutes to find as many connected words as possible from the face up letters resting in a 16 cube grid. When the timer runs out, players compare their lists of words and remove any words found by multiple players. Points are then awarded for remaining words, depending on how many letters are in the word. (In the original Boggle, all words must contain 3 or more letters to score points.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T00:47:59.763" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T00:47:59.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9027" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-01T22:47:05.847" Score="0" Body="Boggle is a timed word game in which players have 3 minutes to find as many connected words as possible from the face up letters resting in a 16 cube grid. When the timer runs out, players compare their lists of words and remove any words found by multiple players. Points are then awarded for remaining words, depending on how many letters are in the word. (In the original Boggle, all words must contain 3 or more letters to score points.)" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T00:48:07.327" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T00:48:07.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9030" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:15:31.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player deploys his ships (of lengths varying from 2 to 5 squares) secretly on a square grid. Then each player shoots at the other's grid by calling a location. The defender responds by &quot;Hit!&quot; or &quot;Miss!&quot;. You try to deduce where the enemy ships are and sink them. First to do so wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T02:20:52.853" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T02:20:52.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9031" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:15:31.527" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T01:15:31.527" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T01:15:31.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8314" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:20:43.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to say for sure, because there aren't a lot of places that prevent you from splitting aces, so there isn't a lot of strategy available that I could find about a soft 12 that says anything other than &quot;split them, duh.&quot; From what I could find, it looks to me like the consensus is to play a soft 12 just a bit more conservatively than a soft 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.predictem.com/blackjack/soft.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One site I found&lt;/a&gt; recommends playing a soft 12 as a soft 13 unless the dealer has a 5 or 6 showing; in that case, he mentions doubling down on 13 through 18, but does not mention 12. That could be an oversight, or it could mean he would just hit a soft 12 ... he does mention a soft 12 in other situations. (I have seen this mentioned other places too ... not sure who posted it first.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jimloy.com/gambling/black.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Another one&lt;/a&gt; plays them the same except for a 6, where you would double down with 13 but not with 12. That site specifically mentions a soft 12 separately from A-A (so you know to split aces if you can and hit if you can't - he does not recommend doubling down with soft 12 against anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T01:20:43.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9033" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:27:50.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card game for 3-10 Players where the Players take on the role of dwarves. As miners, they are in a mine, hunting for gold. Suddenly, a pick axe swings down and shatters the mine lamp. The saboteur has struck. But which of the players are saboteurs? Will you find the gold, or will the fiendish actions of the saboteurs lead them to it first? After three rounds, the player with the most gold is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the help of Dwarf Cards, the players are assigned their role: either miner or saboteur. The roles are kept secret- they are only revealed at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Start Card and the three Goal Cards are placed onto the table, each seven card widths apart from each other. The Goal Cards are placed face-down. The gold is on one of the Goal Cards, but nobody knows which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have cards in hand. On a player's turn, he must do one of three things: place a Path Card into the mine, play an Action Card in front of a player, or pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Path Cards form paths leading to the Goal Cards. Path Cards must be played next to an already-played Path Card. All paths on the Path Card must match those on the already-played cards, and Path Cards may not be played sideways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The miners are trying to build an uninterrupted path from the Start Card to a Goal Card, while the saboteurs are trying to prevent this. They shouldn't try and be too obvious about it, however, lest they be immediately discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action Cards can be placed in front of any player, including oneself. Action Cards let the players help or hinder one another, as well as obtain information about the Goal Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a player places a Path Card that reaches the gold, the round is over. The miners have won and receive cards with gold pieces as their reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round is also over if the gold could not be reached. In that case, the saboteurs have won and receive the gold pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the Gold Cards have been distributed, the next round begins. The game is over at the end of the third round, with the player with the most gold pieces being the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was published 2004. Saboteur 2 was released 2011 as an expansion for Saboteur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-08T04:45:34.487" LastActivityDate="2018-10-08T04:45:34.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9034" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:27:50.470" Score="0" Body="Card game for 3-10 Players where the Players take on the role of dwarves. As miners, they are in a mine, hunting for gold. Suddenly, a pick axe swings down and shatters the mine lamp. The saboteur has struck. But which of the players are saboteurs? Will you find the gold, or will the fiendish actions of the saboteurs lead them to it first? After three rounds, the player with the most gold is the winner." OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T12:53:34.877" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T12:53:34.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9036" CreationDate="2012-11-02T01:47:42.970" Score="9" ViewCount="29082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't quite understand what the person playing the Dispatcher role is allowed and disallowed to do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the Dispatcher wants to move i.e. the Medic's pawn, does he need the approval of the owner or can he do it against the Medic's will? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When making a flight with another pawn, does the Dispatcher use his cards or the player who's pawn is flying? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can the Dispatcher move his pawn to the city with another pawn or does this only apply to moving other pawns?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T04:49:50.567" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T07:48:52.180" Title="What are legal ways to use the Dispatcher's special ability in Pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9035" CreationDate="2012-11-02T02:10:19.213" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/27536/pandemic-rules-with-permission-from-z-man-games&quot;&gt;Pandemic Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Dispatcher may move other player’s pawns on his turn (using any of the available Basic actions) as if they were his own pawn. He may also spend an action to move a pawn to any city that contains another pawn. He may only move other players’ pawns if they permit him to do so.&#xA;  Note: For the Charter Flight action, the Dispatcher must play the card corresponding to the current location of the pawn he wishes to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Dispatcher wants to move ie. Medic's pawn, does he need approval of the owner or can he do it against Medic's will?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, he can only move pawns if they permit him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When making a flight with another pawn, does Dispatcher use his cards or the player who's pawn is flying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uses his cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the Dispatcher move his pawn to the city with another pawn or does this only apply to moving other pawns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He may move any pawn to any city that contains another pawn, so he can move himself to where another pawn is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T02:32:37.357" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T02:32:37.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-02T02:40:09.637" Score="3" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37628/haggis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haggis&lt;/a&gt;, you can make a big bet (30 points) or a small bet (15 points). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always wondered what the use is of making a 15 point bet instead of 30. If you're pretty sure that you're going to win, why not make it 30? If in doubt, then don't bet at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only situation that makes some sense to me is this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you're winning (e.g. you already have 200 points in a 250 point short game), and your opponent is a bit behind you (e.g. he has 180 points). Your opponent doesn't bet. You've got yourself a pretty good hand, and usually you would bet big with those cards, but in this case, you can win the game just as well with a small bet. Also, in case something goes wrong, you are giving your opponent only 15 points. There is a chance that this won't be enough for him to win, so you will have the opportunity to respond in the next round. If you'd bet 30, it probably would be enough for him to finish and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any other situations when making the small bet is a good choice?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I should have pointed out that I'm asking this question about games of Haggis involving two players, but not three.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T21:11:58.210" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T21:11:58.210" Title="When to make a small bet in two-player Haggis?" Tags="|haggis|betting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9038" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-02T02:43:35.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Haggis, is a climbing game for 2-3 players in the same family as Zheng Fen and Big Two. It borrows and recombines elements from its parent games (card combinations, bombs, scoring for cards in hand, scoring for cards collected in tricks) and mixes in equally distributed wild cards and betting that you'll be the first to empty your hand of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Haggis is sometimes referred to as &quot;two player &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/215/tichu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tichu&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T04:40:26.123" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T04:40:26.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9039" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-02T02:43:35.777" Score="0" Body="Haggis, is a climbing game for 2-3 players in the same family as Zheng Fen and Big Two. It borrows and recombines elements from its parent games (card combinations, bombs, scoring for cards in hand, scoring for cards collected in tricks) and mixes in equally distributed wild cards and betting that you'll be the first to empty your hand of cards. " OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T04:40:41.877" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T04:40:41.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9048" CreationDate="2012-11-02T10:45:16.823" Score="3" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should I understand this rule (rulebook p.41, &lt;em&gt;Hunt Re-rolls&lt;/em&gt;)? Does it refer to the last known position of the Fellowship, or does the free peoples' player have to tell the shadow player that he now got X re-rolls which would help him to determine the current position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T22:45:22.393" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T22:47:54.627" Title="Hunt re-rolls in the presence of Sauron's servants or Strongholds" Tags="|war-of-the-ring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9037" CreationDate="2012-11-02T12:55:47.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question was discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/575119/15-vs-30-is-15-defensible&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only answer I found at all convincing was: in a 3-player game, if your hand is marginal, the big bet may convince your opponents to put their own interests aside and work together to set you. If you make a small bet on a similar hand, your opponents might play less aggressively to defeat you--each trying to snag more point cards himself, say--leaving you with a slightly better chance of making the bet. Clearly, this does not apply to 2-player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was also pointed out that the 15-point bet allows a risk-averse novice to experiment with the bet mechanic without being buried for failure. This isn't strong general strategy but it's a reason you might see the small bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T12:55:47.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9043" CreationDate="2012-11-02T16:25:32.137" Score="12" ViewCount="2738" Body="&lt;p&gt;In The Resistance the rules state that everyone votes on the team selected by the team leader, and then reveals their votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I was taught by a friend that the votes are randomized by the leader and then revealed to hide who voted what. This second way makes much more sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a typo? &#xA;Has anyone played it both ways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2932" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-02T17:38:19.680" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:43:08.077" Title="Is team approval voting kept secret?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9042" CreationDate="2012-11-02T16:41:05.950" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say to do it without randomizing. This is from official rules (you can find the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameguys.ie/sites/bggnew/files/The_Resistance_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF file here&lt;/a&gt;, emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mission Team Vote: After appropriate discussion, the Leader calls for&#xA;  a vote on the Team assignments. Each player, including the Leader,&#xA;  secretly selects one Vote Token. &lt;strong&gt;When all players have their selected&#xA;  Vote Token ready, the Leader asks for the Votes to be revealed. All&#xA;  players flip over their Vote Tokens so everyone can see how they&#xA;  Voted.&lt;/strong&gt; The Mission Team is approved if the majority of Votes approved&#xA;  and fails if a majority rejected the assignments; a tied vote is also&#xA;  a rejection. If the Mission Team is approved, play continues in the&#xA;  Mission phase. If the Mission Team is rejected, the Leader passes in a&#xA;  clockwise manner and the Team building phase is repeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually don't agree with you that the second method makes much sense. You get way more information about the other players if you know how they voted in the past. Is player X always voting &lt;code&gt;No&lt;/code&gt;, is he voting &lt;code&gt;yes&lt;/code&gt; only if the player Y or himself get selected to the mission team? You wouldn't be able to tell any of that even after few rounds of play, and say, 10+ votes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is convincig other players to vote for the team you want - if you know who voted &lt;code&gt;No&lt;/code&gt;, then you present good argument why you think they should change their mind, and they got nothing to reply you with, or say that they agree with you... Then everyone will see if they actually changed their minds or only said so, but voted &lt;code&gt;No&lt;/code&gt; anyway. If voting is secret, they could just listen to you, vote &lt;code&gt;No&lt;/code&gt; anyway, and they say &quot;Hey, I voted &lt;code&gt;Yes&lt;/code&gt;, someone else must have changed his mind&quot;. And discussion can become dull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think that randomizing votes would make things easier for the spies - they always should vote &lt;code&gt;no&lt;/code&gt; (they might just win the round with 5 teams voted down), unless the team selected is perfect for they needs. They would never have to think harder than that, and that seems less fun for me. That's why I would generally be against secret voting, but might give it a try a couple of times. Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in the history of the game, I'm sure you can easily see that The Resistance originates from Mafia/Werewolves games. In those games, players openly suggest who to &quot;linch&quot; each day, and voting is (at least in most cases) open for similar reasons. In the prototype version of The Resistance, actually using your thumb down/up was used to vote &lt;code&gt;Yes&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;No&lt;/code&gt;, and this is the way I do it with in my group to this day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T13:43:08.077" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:43:08.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2012-11-02T17:13:35.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what you are looking for is called Strokes Table Golf (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.strokestablegolf.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.strokestablegolf.com/&lt;/a&gt;) It is a Carrom like game with a custom board exactly as you describe it. It has jumps, ramps, and other hazards. My feeling tho is this may just be the modern version of the game which is different than what you had played. They also have an iPhone app. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2012-11-02T17:13:35.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9045" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-02T20:12:45.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;War of the Ring is a board game where one player (team) takes control of the Free Peoples (FP), the other player (team) controls Shadow Armies (SA). It can be played with 2-4 Players and take about 180 Minutes per game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, the Free People Nations are reluctant to take arms against Sauron, so they must be attacked by Sauron or persuaded by Gandalf or other Companions, before they start to fight properly: this is represented by the Political Track, which shows if a Nation is ready to fight in the War of the Ring or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game can be won by a military victory, if Sauron conquers a certain number of Free People cities and strongholds or vice-versa. But the true hope of the Free Peoples lies with the quest of the Ringbearer: while the armies clash across Middle Earth, the Fellowship of the Ring is trying to get secretly to Mount Doom to destroy the One Ring. Sauron is not aware of the real intention of his enemies but is looking across Middle Earth for the precious Ring, so that the Fellowship is going to face numerous dangers, represented by the rules of The Hunt for the Ring. But the Companions can spur the Free Peoples to the fight against Sauron, so the Free People player must balance the need to protect the Ringbearer from harm, against the attempt to raise a proper defense against the armies of the Shadow, so that they do not overrun Middle Earth before the Ringbearer completes his quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each game turn revolves around the roll of Action Dice: each die corresponds to an action that a player can do during a turn. Depending on the face rolled on each die, different actions are possible (moving armies, characters, recruiting troops, advancing a Political Track).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action dice can also be used to draw or play Event Cards. Event Cards are played to represent specific events from the story (or events which could possibly have happened) which cannot be portrayed through normal gameplay. Each Event Card can also create an unexpected turn in the game, allowing special actions or altering the course of a battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T01:17:00.540" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T01:17:00.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9046" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-02T20:12:45.807" Score="0" Body="War of the Ring is a board game where one player (team) takes control of the Free Peoples (FP), the other player (team) controls Shadow Armies (SA). It can be played with 2-4 Players and take about 180 Minutes per game." OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T00:11:19.483" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T00:11:19.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9040" CreationDate="2012-11-03T01:33:12.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My copy of the WotR rules don't have a page 41, but on page 19 of my rule book, the following text occurs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If, during the Hunt, the &lt;em&gt;last known position&lt;/em&gt; of the Fellowship&quot; [emphasis mine]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it as the Shadow following the trail of the Fellowship.  Getting out from under a Nazgûl is in fact one of the motives to declare the position of the Fellowship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's fun is that the Free Peoples player doesn't actually know where the Fellowship is, either.  They don't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; an actual position until they are declared, so any rule that acts to give clues about what that actual position might be wouldn't work anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3423" LastEditorUserId="3423" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T01:43:15.200" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T01:43:15.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9040" CreationDate="2012-11-03T01:49:12.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aresgames.eu/768&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2nd Edition rules&lt;/a&gt; (although the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/War%20of%20the%20Ring/warofthering.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1st Edition rules&lt;/a&gt; do not differ in this respect, although it clarifies it in a different way), when determining the location of the Fellowship, the Frodo &amp;amp; Sam figurine's location is used. This may be the current location of the Fellowship, if the Fellowship is &lt;strong&gt;declared&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;revealed&lt;/strong&gt;. Otherwise, it will be the last known position (LKP) of the Fellowship and the &lt;strong&gt;Fellowship Progress Counter&lt;/strong&gt; will indicate how far the Fellowship has traveled from that last know position. Since the LKP of the Fellowship is always used for all rules, including Hunt re-rolls (Hunt Re-rolls use the position of the Ring-bearers figure, not the current position of the Fellowship), no extra information is revealed to the shadow player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Ring-bearers&lt;/strong&gt; figure (Frodo &amp;amp; Sam) indicates the &lt;em&gt;last known position&lt;/em&gt; of the Fellowship. It is placed in the Region where the Fellowship was last declared or revealed (see page 38). At the start of the game, it is placed in Rivendell. &lt;strong&gt;Whenever rules or Event Cards refer to the current location of the Fellowship, it is determined by the position of this figure&lt;/strong&gt;, regardless of the position of the Fellowship Progress Counter (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Fellowship Progress Counter&lt;/strong&gt; shows how far the Fellowship has traveled from its last known position and indicates whether the Fellowship is &lt;strong&gt;Hidden&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Revealed&lt;/strong&gt;. This counter is placed on the the &lt;strong&gt;Fellowship Track&lt;/strong&gt; on the game board and is moved a step forward each time the Fellowship advances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1st Edition just flat out tells you to use the Fellowships last known position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hunt Re-rolls&lt;/strong&gt; - The presence of Sauron’s servants or Strongholds makes movement of&#xA;the Fellowship more dangerous. If, during the Hunt, the &lt;strong&gt;last known position of the Fellowship&lt;/strong&gt; is in a Region that contains one or more of the following... (&lt;strong&gt;Clip&lt;/strong&gt;: up to 3 possible re-roll conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T22:47:54.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9049" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-03T01:56:19.510" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strategy game (2 players, 20 minutes) played on a 4x4 board with 16 unique pieces. Each piece is either dark/light, short/tall, round/square, and flat/hole-on-top. Players place pieces until a row of four is created where all pieces in the row share at least one characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most interesting feature of Quarto is that every piece you place is selected by your opponent. You decide where to put it, and then select a piece for her to place. The winner is the player who places the piece completing a suitable row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T02:27:16.520" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T02:27:16.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9050" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-03T01:56:19.510" Score="0" Body="A 2-player strategy game played on a 4x4 board with 16 unique pieces. Each piece is either dark/light, short/tall, round/square, and flat/hole-on-top. Players place pieces until a row of four is created where all pieces in the row share at least one characteristic. (20-minute playtime)" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T02:27:05.113" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T02:27:05.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9051" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-03T02:04:10.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each card has a number (1-3) of objects (oval, squiggle, diamond), all colored (purple, green, red) and shaded (hollow, solid, shaded). This results in 81 unique cards, of which 12 are arrayed out for players to hunt for sets of 3 cards that are either all 3 the same or all 3 different in every one of the 4 characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A puzzle game involving finding patterns (or lack thereof!) in an array of colorful, geometric cards. Can be played solitaire or in large groups, takes about 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T02:27:13.303" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T02:27:13.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9052" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-03T02:04:10.963" Score="0" Body="A puzzle game involving finding patterns (or lack thereof!) in an array of colorful, geometric cards. Can be played solitaire or in large groups, takes about 20 minutes." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T02:27:08.563" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T02:27:08.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9056" CreationDate="2012-11-03T02:05:05.500" Score="7" ViewCount="869" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234709&quot;&gt;Keldon Marauders&lt;/a&gt;  on the battlefield. The card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When Keldon Marauders enters the battlefield or leaves the battlefield, it deals 1 damage to target player.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=278195&quot;&gt;Worldfire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Exile all permanents. Exile all cards from all hands and graveyards. Each player's life total becomes 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume Worldfire would resolve first and the players' life would be set to 1, then Keldon Marauders would leave the battlefield and deal 1 damage to a player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T02:35:20.997" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T06:37:13.570" Title="Worldfire order of events" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9057" CreationDate="2012-11-03T02:35:39.930" Score="19" ViewCount="11467" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my friends asked me this question recently, and I couldn't answer it, so I thought I'd pass it along:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to have a tie in Munchkin (elf assisting in a victory to have two people land on level 10 simultaneously)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1140" LastActivityDate="2019-01-08T01:57:09.303" Title="Is it possible to have a tie in Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9053" CreationDate="2012-11-03T03:01:11.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldfire&quot;&gt;Worldfire&lt;/a&gt;'s Gatherer rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These actions are performed in order, but no triggered abilities resolve in between them and no player may cast spells or activate abilities in between them. This means that if a permanent's ability triggers on a player losing life, that permanent will be exiled first and won't be on the battlefield when your life total becomes 1. Leaves-the-battlefield triggers won't resolve until you're done resolving Worldfire entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Worldfire resolves completely, leaving everyone's life total at one, then the leaves-the-battlefield trigger of the Keldon Mauraders resolves and deals one damage to the targeted player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T03:01:11.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9053" CreationDate="2012-11-03T05:16:24.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're wrong about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keldon%20Marauders&quot;&gt;Keldon Marauders&lt;/a&gt; leaving the battlefield after each players' life is set to 1. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldfire&quot;&gt;Worldfire&lt;/a&gt;'s instructions are done in order [CR 608.2c], and &amp;quot;exile all permanents&amp;quot; comes before &amp;quot;each player's life total becomes 1&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that you will win the game, but it's because the triggered ability is only placed on the stack after each players' life is set to 1. Specifically, triggered abilities are only placed on the stack the next time a player would get priority [CR 603.3], not when they are triggered [CR 603.2]. Noone gets priority until after Worldfire has finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is a breakdown of what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Worldfire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worldfire resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exile all permanents. Keldon Marauders's ability triggers. [CR 603.2]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exile all cards from all hands and graveyards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player's life total becomes 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keldon Marauders's ability is placed on the stack targeting your opponent. [CR 603.3]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keldon Marauders's ability resolves: Keldon Marauders deals one damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs are performed: Your opponent loses the game for having non-positive life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T06:37:13.570" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T06:37:13.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9054" CreationDate="2012-11-03T06:42:27.600" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes that is one way to achieve a tie. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showpost.php?p=1327538&amp;amp;postcount=5&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SJG representative&lt;/a&gt; confirmed it (with a slight clarification with regard to being enthralled):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: I was playing the original Munchkin game as an elf who gains a level for each monster that they help kill. I was enthralled to fight by a bard. We were both level 9 and killed the three monsters. Since we both gained the three levels we were both level 10 at the same time. Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: It's a Level gained by killing, so the Elf can, in fact, get the winning Level by helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missed the Bard wrinkle, so here's the proper official answer: The Elf couldn't have been enthralled in the first place. Had he been enthralled, before the win was on the line for the Bard, he still could have won the game, but if suddenly the Bard had the chance to win the game as well, the enthralled Elf leaves the combat outright. The Bard can still get help, but has to do it based on his real personality, not some Svengali like ability. . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T06:42:27.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9059" CreationDate="2012-11-03T08:14:05.493" Score="11" ViewCount="25072" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many of the same artifact can be on the battlefield at once? For example, could I play more than one &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221523&quot;&gt;Dragon's Claw&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221520&quot;&gt;Angel's Feather&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3465" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T08:29:53.757" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T02:40:50.583" Title="How many of the same artifact can be on the battlefield at once?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9058" CreationDate="2012-11-03T08:22:23.113" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no limit. If you have more than one out, each one will trigger independently and give you a life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only three limits are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legendary permanents with the same name,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planeswalker permanents sharing a subtype and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchantments with the World supertype.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5j If two or more planeswalkers that share a planeswalker type are on the battlefield, all are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “planeswalker uniqueness rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5k If two or more legendary permanents with the same name are on the battlefield, all are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “legend rule.” If only one of those permanents is legendary, this rule doesn’t apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5m If two or more permanents have the supertype world, all except the one that has been a permanent with the world supertype on the battlefield for the shortest amount of time are put into their owners’ graveyards. In the event of a tie for the shortest amount of time, all are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “world rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T10:34:46.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8973" CreationDate="2012-11-03T08:43:04.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trusty Steed and Followers are usually the top, and choosing which is pretty situation-dependent. Bag of Gold is always good, and in most cases I'll take Duchies (or not reveal my Province) rather than clutter my deck with Diadem and Princess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Followers?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Followers shines, it's great. Discarding and cursing is incredibly harsh, but the penalty of taking an Estate can really hurt. If you're lucky enough to get an early Tournament-Province activation, I would hold off on Followers unless your engine is robust against the Estates. The Estates are obviously more tolerable if you've got a Baron or two (which is a great way to get to that early Province) or a decent way to trash them (Bishop!) with enough +card and +action to be reasonably confident of getting it done.&#xA;If an opponent is behind in getting an engine set up, Followers can make it near impossible for them to catch up, but if +card and +action are plentiful and your opponent's deck is in better shape than yours, the Estates could end up hurting you more than your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also ask yourself if the attack will be effective. If other attack cards are in the pool, either cursers or discarders, Followers' strength is redundant. Defense-wise, if your opponents have Moats or Lighthouses, you still take an Estate, while Watchtower or Jack-of-All Trades will just laugh at the attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Trusty Steed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my go-to. Originally I liked Followers best, but the Estates too often get me down. +2 Cards +2 Actions isn't &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; amazing, but it's never something to complain about. Especially if there's other +2 Action cards, Trusty Steed is excellent. And, unlike Followers, the earlier you can get it the better. In most games, I'll try to pick this one up first, and then hope that I get Followers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Followers, however, it's not good if it's just redundant. If you've got plenty of +card +action, you don't need the Trusty Steed, get something else instead. However, if your deck is just starting to really work, Trusty Steed can help just about any engine get rolling. As long as you have an action when you draw it, Trusty Steed can always do &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bag of Gold: underrated&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bag of Gold is good, not because it gets you a Gold, but because that Gold goes on top of your deck. This is best in a non-trashy, attack-filled game. If your deck is big and things are moving slowly, putting that Gold on top is fantastic. If the trashing options are poor, you're not drawing so much, and the Curses are almost gone due to a Witch, then you don't want Followers (little point without more Curses), a Trusty Steed may be most useful for its Silvers, but the Bag of Gold will be welcome, maybe even the top choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Diadem: specialty cases only&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a bunch of Fishing Villages? Maybe your stack of Cities are activated? Get the Diadem! There's some situations where it will be great, and you'll know because you always know if you're ending your turn with a bunch of extra actions. If you usually have &gt;=3 actions left, go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Princess: useless unless you use the +Buy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related rant: Bridge is a fantastic card, but it's power is only apparent when you buy multiple cards. If you play a single Bridge and use only one buy, it's equivalent to a Silver that you wasted an action on. If you buy two cards, it's equivalent to a Gold (with a buy, but costing an action--pretty good). However, with 2 Bridges in play, buying 2 cards and they're worth $3 each, buy 3 and they're $4 each...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Princess, if you buy a single card, is Silver that you spent an action to use. Buying two cards, it gets better, but don't bother with her unless you are regularly hitting $10, with an extra action, so that you can get a Province and something else worthwhile. Of course, if you're hitting $12 or more and already have the +buy, then Princess doesn't have much appeal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Duchies: better than you think&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two-player Big Money game, you should start buying Duchies instead of Gold when half the Provinces are gone. With more players, you should start even earlier. I'd put the utility of most prizes about on par with a Gold. In a normally paced game, when there are half (or slightly more) of the Provinces left, you should be getting ready for the game to end soon, and that means maximizing your score with Duchies. A Diadem you use once or twice could get you an extra Province, or it might not. The Duchy is money in the bank. Try to estimate how many shuffles you have left; if you'll only get a chance to play a prize once or twice, the Duchy may be the smart bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-03T09:14:06.187" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T09:14:06.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1455" CreationDate="2012-11-03T09:28:29.237" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Solutions (TLDR)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probabilities of a single player getting one of the above hands, from a single deal, are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1: 0.09%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2: 1.54%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3: 0.05%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below I have calculated the probabilities and also simulated them to check the calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also simulated the scenarios to find the probabilities of any player getting one of the above hands, from a single deal.  I think this more closely matches the observations described in the question.  These probabilities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1 for any player: 0.38%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2 for any player: 5.98%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3 for any player: 0.19%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Introduction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A standard euchre deck contains the 9, 10, J, Q, K and A in each of the four suits, making a total of 24 cards.  Each of the four players are dealt a hand of five cards, and there are four cards left over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will split the deck, &lt;code&gt;D&lt;/code&gt;, into the four Jacks &lt;code&gt;J&lt;/code&gt;, and the other twenty non-Jack cards &lt;code&gt;N&lt;/code&gt;.  We refer to the player's hand as &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;, and the table cards as &lt;code&gt;T&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use the notation &lt;code&gt;nCk&lt;/code&gt; to refer to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combination#Number_of_k-combinations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Combinations function&lt;/a&gt;; the number of ways of choosing &lt;code&gt;k&lt;/code&gt; elements from a set of size &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We refer to the probability of an event using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Probability#Mathematical_treatment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;notation&lt;/a&gt; &lt;code&gt;P(Event)&lt;/code&gt;.  We will refer to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conditional_probability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;conditional probability&lt;/a&gt; of event 2 happening, given that event 1 happens, with the notation &lt;code&gt;P(Event 2 | Event 1)&lt;/code&gt;.  In several places we do not explicitly state that an event is conditional on another event, but hopefully the context makes it obvious when this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 1: What are the odds that you get dealt both Jacks of the same color, plus three other cards all of the same suit in the same color? (i.e. Jack of Hearts, Jack of Diamonds, plus Ace, Queen and Ten of Diamonds).&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Scenario1) = P(H contains exactly 2 Jacks) * P(The Jacks are the same colour) &#xA;               * P(3 other cards are same suit) * P(The suit is the same colour as the Jacks)&#xA;P(H contains exactly 2 Jacks) = (Ways to pick 2 from J) * (Ways to pick 3 from N) &#xA;                                / (Ways to pick 5 from D)&#xA;                              = (4C2)(20C3) / (24C5)&#xA;                              = 6*1140 / 42504&#xA;P(The Jacks are the same colour) = 1/3&#xA;P(3 other cards are same suit) = P(The second card is the same suit as the first)&#xA;                                 * P(The third is the same suit as the other two)&#xA;                               = 4/19 * 3/18&#xA;P(The suit is the same colour as the Jacks) = 1/2&#xA;∴ P(Scenario1) = 6*1140 / 42504 * 1/3 * 4/19 * 3/18 * 1/2&#xA;               = 5/5313&#xA;               ~= 0.09%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 3: What are the odds you get dealt all 4 Jacks?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This calculation is slightly more straightforward than for Scenario 1, as we no longer need to worry about suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(Scenario3) = P(H contains exactly 4 Jacks)&#xA;             = (4C4)(20C1)/(24C5)&#xA;             = 1*20 / 42504&#xA;             = 5/10626&#xA;             ~= 0.05%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 3 is exactly half as likely as scenario 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 2: What are the odds you get dealt four of the cards asked in Scenario 1, and the fifth card you need is the face-up card in the pile of 4 remaining cards?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is harder to compute.  First we split the calculation down by distribution of &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt;.  I've written &lt;code&gt;d(H)=(3,2)&lt;/code&gt; to mean that &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; contains 3 Jacks and 2 non-Jacks. Note that it is only possible to get Scenario 2 if &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; contains 1,2 or 3 Jacks.  We refer to &quot;Scenario 2&quot; as &lt;code&gt;S2&lt;/code&gt; for brevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2) = P(d(H)=(3,2))P(S2 | d(H)=(3,2)) + P(d(H)=(2,3))P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3))&#xA;        + P(d(H)=(1,4))P(S2 | d(H)=(1,4))&#xA;P(d(H)=(j,n)) = (4Cj)(20Cn) / (24C5)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 2, Part 1: Three Jacks in the hand&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the case where &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; contains 3 Jacks and 2 non-Jacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2 | d(H)=(3,2)) = P(2 of the Jacks are same colour) * P(2 non-Jacks are same suit)&#xA;                     * P(Suit of non-Jacks is same colour as 2 Jacks)&#xA;                     * P(T contains at least one non-Jack of same suit)&#xA;P(2 of the Jacks are same colour) = 1&#xA;P(2 non-Jacks are same suit) = 4/19&#xA;P(Suit of non-Jacks is same colour as 2 Jacks) = 1/2&#xA;P(T contains at least one non-Jack of same suit) = 1 - P(T contains 0 non-Jacks of same suit)&#xA;                                                 = 1 - 16/19 * 15/18 * 14/17 * 13/16&#xA;                                                 = 514/969&#xA;∴ P(S2 | d(H)=(3,2)) = 1 * 4/19 * 1/2 * 514/969 = 1028/18411&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 2, Part 2: Two Jacks in the hand&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next consider the case where &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; contains 2 Jacks and 3 non-Jacks.  We treat the cases where the Jacks are the same colour separately from the cases where they are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3)) = P(Jacks are same colour)P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3) and Jacks are same colour)&#xA;                     + P(Jacks not same colour)P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3) and Jacks not same colour)&#xA;                   = 1/3 P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3) and Jacks are same colour)&#xA;                     + 2/3 P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3) and Jacks not same colour)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Jacks are the same colour, we need exactly two of the three non-Jacks to share a suit, and that suit to be the same colour as the Jacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3) and Jacks are same colour) = P(Exactly 2 non-Jacks share a suit)&#xA;  * P(Suit is same colour as Jacks) * P(T contains at least one non-Jack of same suit)&#xA;  = (3*(4*15)/(18*19)) * (1/2) * (514/969)&#xA;  = 2570/18411&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Jacks are different suits, we need all three non-Jacks to share a suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3) and Jacks not same colour)&#xA; = P(All 3 non-Jacks share a suit) * P(T contains other Jack of same colour)&#xA; = (4*3)/(19*18) * 4/19&#xA; = 8/1083&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting these two cases together we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2 | d(H)=(2,3)) = 1/3 * 2570/18411 + 2/3 * 8/1083 = 2842/55233&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 2, Part 3: One Jack in the hand&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final distribution of &lt;code&gt;H&lt;/code&gt; to consider is 1 Jack and 4 non-Jacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2 | d(H)=(1,4)) = P(At least 3 non-Jacks share a suit) * P(The Jack is the same colour)&#xA;                     * P(T contains other Jack of same colour)&#xA;P(At least 3 non-Jacks share a suit) = (4*4*3*15 + 4*3*2) / (19*18*17) = 124/969&#xA;P(The Jack is the same colour) = 1/2&#xA;P(T contains other Jack of same colour) = 4/19&#xA;∴ P(S2 | d(H)=(1,4)) = 124/969 * 1/2 * 4/19 = 248/18411&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scenario 2: Conclusion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So putting all of that together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P(S2) = (4C3)(20C2)/(24C5) * 1028/18411 + (4C2)(20C3)/(24C5) * 2842/55233&#xA;        + (4C1)(20C4)/(24C5) * 248/18411&#xA;      = 4*190/42504 * 1028/18411 + 6*1140/42504 * 2842/55233 + 4*4845/42504 * 248/18411&#xA;      = 4670/302841&#xA;      ~= 1.54%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Simulation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check my calculations I have written a Python script to evaluate ten million deals, to see how frequently each of the scenarios occurs.  The script is &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/5UULF8Fn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also used it to compute the probability of any of the four players satisfying each of the three scenarios for a given deal.  I thought this would be interesting, as this is what was observed in the question, although not actually the probability being asked for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Probability for a single player   | Probability across all four players&#xA;Scenario1 | Scenario2 | Scenario3 | Scenario1 | Scenario2 | Scenario3&#xA; 0.0972%  |  1.5319%  |  0.05  %  |  0.3703%  |  5.9367%  |  0.1748%&#xA; 0.0927%  |  1.519 %  |  0.0442%  |  0.3716%  |  5.9698%  |  0.1914%&#xA; 0.0911%  |  1.5607%  |  0.0466%  |  0.3896%  |  5.9523%  |  0.187 %&#xA; 0.096 %  |  1.5207%  |  0.0442%  |  0.3753%  |  5.9583%  |  0.1853%&#xA; 0.0946%  |  1.5594%  |  0.0457%  |  0.3711%  |  5.9709%  |  0.1844%&#xA; 0.1004%  |  1.561 %  |  0.0466%  |  0.3824%  |  6.0065%  |  0.1916%&#xA; 0.0964%  |  1.5367%  |  0.0476%  |  0.3776%  |  5.9651%  |  0.1882%&#xA; 0.098 %  |  1.563 %  |  0.0452%  |  0.3775%  |  6.0131%  |  0.188 %&#xA; 0.0942%  |  1.5385%  |  0.0469%  |  0.3849%  |  6.0205%  |  0.1852%&#xA; 0.0983%  |  1.535 %  |  0.0418%  |  0.3641%  |  5.9913%  |  0.1931%&#xA;-----------------------------------------------------------------------&#xA; 0.0959%  |  1.5426%  |  0.0459%  |  0.3764%  |  5.9785%  |  0.1869%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happily the simulation backs up the calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2017-03-08T07:47:50.133" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T07:47:50.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9058" CreationDate="2012-11-03T15:21:15.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct answer, as any deckbuilding Johnny will tell you, is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; &quot;as many as possible&quot;.  In Magic it's quite easy to come up with a deck that will put infinite artifacts into play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 Seat of the Synod 4 Tree of Tales 4 Ancient Den 4 Great Furnace 4&#xA;  Vault of Whispers 4 Island 4 Kuldotha Forgemaster 4 Vedalken Engineer&#xA;  1 Darksteel Colossus 4 Kaleidostone 4 Everflowing Chalice 4 Brittle&#xA;  Effigy 4 Mycosynth Lattice 4 Summoning Station 4 Thornbite Staff 2&#xA;  Akroma's Memorial 1 Legacy Weapon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ftl/107&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; for a full explanation of how to get infinite Pincher tokens (Mycosynth Lattice-d so they are also artifacts) into play, but I include an excerpt that should give you the idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With a Staff'ed Forgemaster, sacrifice three other artifacts to&#xA;  activate the Forgemaster. (They can be anything besides the&#xA;  combo-related cards.) Summoning Station will untap thrice, making&#xA;  three artifact Pincher tokens. Meanwhile, your newly untapped&#xA;  Forgemaster (because of the Staff) will have fetched a Darksteel&#xA;  Colossus. Now repeat this process, except you'll sacrifice two of&#xA;  those Pinchers and the Colossus itself. Since the Colossus shuffles&#xA;  itself back into your library, you can find it again (or Legacy&#xA;  Weapon.) In this way we won't run out of artifacts to keep the engine&#xA;  running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eventually we'll have infinite Pincher tokens. When you're ready to&#xA;  swing, fetch up an Akroma's Memorial and go to town with Pinchers of&#xA;  Wrath!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-03T15:21:15.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9064" CreationDate="2012-11-03T21:47:25.433" Score="35" ViewCount="46810" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is to settle a current dispute with our game. Here's the scenario: Someone rolled the dice and landed on Community Chest, passing GO in the process. They picked up the card and it read 'Pay 10 pound or Take a Chance'. They took a Chance, and the Chance card said 'Go back 3 spaces.' They landed on Mayfair, passing back over the GO square to get there. They argued that they should still receive 200 pound because they already passed GO, and you receive the money when passing it NOT at the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that this is correct and you should get the money as you pass GO rather than at the end of your turn (therefore removing the money you got by passing if you went backwards and landed on a square before GO). I've looked in the rules and &lt;em&gt;I&lt;/em&gt; think you get the money as you pass, rather than after the consequences of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the official stance on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3468" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T02:15:49.900" LastActivityDate="2019-12-27T03:02:37.603" Title="If you pass GO, do you collect 200 at the end of the turn or as you pass GO?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9063" CreationDate="2012-11-03T22:19:28.647" Score="49" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Original answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You collect $200 each time you pass over or land on the GO.&lt;/strong&gt; See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm#go&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time a player's token lands on or passes over &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt;, whether by throwing the dice or drawing a card, the Banker pays that player a $200 salary.&#xA;&amp;quot;The $200 is paid only once each time around the board. However, if a player passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; on the throw of the dice lands 2 spaces beyond it on Community Chest, or 7 spaces beyond it on Chance, and draws the &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Advance to GO&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; card, they collect $200 for passing GO the first time, and another $200 for Advancing to it the second time by the instructions on the card.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question is quite interesting, it has been asked before &lt;a href=&quot;http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20100503032754AATeuTV&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.answer5.com/games_recreation/board_games/?id=b998266#.UJXntrtw1q8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think, is that player should collect $200 only if passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; in the clockwise direction or landing on it (also by advancing to or over the &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; using card). The rules state that it is possible to collect $200 more than once in a turn, however in this case I think that the player in question should:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect $200 for passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the chance card, go back 3 spaces to Mayfair. Do not collect $200 for passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; this time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect $200 for passing  &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; in the next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be wrong though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Edit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were some good comments posted that made me think more about this particular situation. I'm making this edit to answer all of them comprehensively, hopefully. Sorry about the long post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pay a $10 fine or take a Chance&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comment from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3128/colin-d&quot;&gt;@ColinD&lt;/a&gt; made me look for more information about the card. I've found information on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chance_and_Community_Chest_cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia &lt;/a&gt; that &lt;strong&gt;this card was omitted in U.S. editions since 1936&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm assuming it wasn't ommited just in U.S. editions, since I've never actually seen this card in real life and I live in Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be what makes things complicated here. As @ColinD suggested later, situation described in the OP's question might be the only way to achieve passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; in the counter-clockwise fashion. Since the card allowing this to happen was omitted, there was no need to address this issue in the official rules - that's why they might not be crystal clear about this. I'm also afraid that looking at the rules from 1936 wouldn't solve this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would like to learn more about the history of Monopoly game, take a look on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.henrygeorge.org/dodson_on_monopoly.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://landlordsgame.info/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Authorities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't completely sure my answer was correct and there were some good points made by other users. So, I decided to contact authorities for consultation. This is what I was told.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Hasbro Customer Service&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After contacting them by online form and describing situation (without mentioning my thoughts on how this should be resolved) I received following response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for contacting Hasbro Customer Service regarding the rules&#xA;for Monopoly. I'm delighted to help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The player collects $200 for passing GO. They can choose to ask for it as soon as they pass the space or at the end of their turn.&#xA;Either way, no matter when they ask for it, it's owed to them for&#xA;passing GO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players do not collect $200 for passing GO counter-clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the player should collect $200 again as they passed GO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps! Happy gaming!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so this answer doesn't provide much reasoning behind this, but the results of rules interpretation seem to be the same as mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Main Judge of the Polish Monopoly Championships&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've contacted Mr. Michael Stajszczak, who was the main judge in all editions of the Polish Monopoly Championships. He judged many other games in tournaments and made a fair amount of rules translation for different board games. Again, I didn't suggest any particular interpretation of the rules in this situation. This is what he replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If described situation was to happen in the tournament, the decision would be like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player should immediately collect $200 for passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt;, before drawing Community Chest card. He doesn't collect money for passing over &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; in backward direction. However in the next move,&#xA;when he will be passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; again, he should collect another $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the way I understood the rules. However, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1678/johno&quot;&gt;@Johno&lt;/a&gt; made a good point that maybe the player shouldn't collect another $200 when passing &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; on the following turn due to the &lt;em&gt;The $200 is paid only once each time around the board&lt;/em&gt; clarification, because he's already had the return for completing that circuit. I've also asked Mr. Stajszczak about this interpetation of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, this sentence could be interpreted in more than one way.&#xA;However, I think it addresses different issue. This was to resolve the&#xA;situation where player finishes his move on the &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; - so that he&#xA;won't get the money twice (first time for landing on &lt;em&gt;GO&lt;/em&gt; and second&#xA;time for leaving it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the quoted sentence isn't present in Polish set of the&#xA;rules. That's why this wasn't an issue in any of the Polish&#xA;tournaments. Unfortunately we can't ask the game designer about this&#xA;since he passed away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case of doubt, there was always an information in the&#xA;Championship rules that the game rules are as main judge interpets them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is probably the best answer you could get for this situation. &lt;strong&gt;That's the way the issue would most likely be resolved in the official tournament.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T13:52:24.883" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9054" CreationDate="2012-11-04T00:39:19.463" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to have a tie would be to have a Divine Intervention event grant a level to two or more 9th-level Clerics at once; Divine Intervention being a specific exception to the rule that you can only hit 10th level by killing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T00:39:19.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2012-11-04T00:40:18.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a perfect route that takes up almost all the twelve point and up tickets. the only catch is you have to be willing to forgo going to Miami. The route is as so- CAL-VAN-SEA-PORT-SANFRAN-LA-PHO-SANTA-DEN-KC-STL-CHI-PIT-NY-MON with a divert to NAS-ATL. This route takes about 38 trains, give or take, and almost guarantees a completed route if you draw at games end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3469" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T00:40:18.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-04T02:39:21.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've experimented a bit with different numbers of kingdom cards. For small variations (say 8-12 piles) the game seems mostly unchanged. That said, 10 usually feels like a good number. This depends largely on how you select those cards. With straight-up random selection, with fewer cards you decrease the number of combinations. This can often result in games without much engine potential, so players will just play Big Money, or Big Money + (one or two cards),  which doesn't make for a very interesting game. However, if you're picking cards deliberately, you could craft good sets with fewer than 10 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with more than 12 can overwhelm people with choices.&#xA;In many cases, whether a game ends on piles or on Provinces is determined by what piles are out there. There are some cards that almost always get bought out (e.g. Fishing Village, Caravan). If you use more than 10 Kingdom cards, I think you will find a higher percentage of games have  more than 1 very popular card, which might result in more frequent endings on piles. Conversely, if you have fewer than 10 kingdom cards and people start playing strategies close to Big Money, I think the game is more likely to end on Provinces. (I only include this because I think it's opposite to what you assumed in your question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as house rules to modify the kingdom cards, the most successful one we've tried at my house is to have mixed piles where you can only buy the top card. We'll select 8 or 10 kingdom cards (often with each player secretly picking a share), then shuffle them all together. This stack is divided into 4 piles, with only the top cards visible. On your turn, if you gain a card, you put a token on all the piles you didn't buy from, and when a pile has tokens equal to the number of players they are removed and the top card is placed on the bottom of the pile. We like that you only have partial knowledge of what's going to be available, so there's a lot of excitement when new cards get revealed. It also increases the luck factor, which can help even a game out if there's significant skill gaps between players. We'd do it more often, but it's a bit of a pain to set up and clean up....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T18:09:27.407" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T18:09:27.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9069" CreationDate="2012-11-04T09:08:26.353" Score="19" ViewCount="25772" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'em, there are 5 communal cards that are shared by all players, and 2 hole cards, that are private and may only be used by the player that the cards were dealt to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we just select all the 5 communal cards for creating our best hand, or do we need to keep our 2 hole cards and only choose 3 communal cards out of 5 communal cards to make a hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3471" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T10:05:47.760" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T06:21:42.780" Title="Can a player use only the communal cards when selecting their best hand?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9068" CreationDate="2012-11-04T09:43:49.157" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Hold'em, each player makes the best possible 5-card hand possible using any of the 7 cards available. To each player, there is no distinction between the communal cards and their own private cards. The selected 5-card poker hand can include 0, 1, or 2 of the hole cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible that the best hand you can make uses 0 of your hole cards. In this case, you cannot win (unless everyone else folds), but if no player can make a better hand than the 5 communal cards then it is a tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background info (prior to edit)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poker hands, that is, sets of cards that can be ranked by standard poker rules, contain 5 cards. Many poker variants, including Texas Hold'em, give players access to more than 5 cards and let them create the best 5-card hand they can out of all the options. In 7-card stud, some of the cards are private, but face-up. In Texas Hold'em, some of the cards are shared. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said in your question, in Hold'em there are 5 communal cards and 2 hole cards, so each player has 7 cards from which to choose 5 to make the best poker hand they can. The number of ways to choose 5 from 7 is 21 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combination&quot;&gt;Combinations&lt;/a&gt;, from Wikipedia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might think you can get away with omitting the combination consisting of just the communal cards, but this should still be evaluated because if it's the highest scoring hand, then everyone ties (e.g., if the communal cards are a Royal Flush, then everyone ties regardless of their hole cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-04T10:06:48.907" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T10:06:48.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9075" CreationDate="2012-11-04T11:11:50.457" Score="7" ViewCount="172" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Ravensburger's &lt;em&gt;Labyrinth&lt;/em&gt; with two friends, and we didn't manage to finish the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, you can never effectively move your piece more than 2 steps during your turn (step 1 by shifting the space you're standing on, step 2 by making your step). With 3+ players, you also can't limit what shifts your opponents make in any way (with 2 players, you could shift a row in one direction and then your opponent can't shift that row in the opposite direction that turn; with 3 players, player A shifts a row, player B can't reverse it, player C can). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming all players always prefer to prevent an opponent from winning the game next move, &lt;strong&gt;how is it possible to finish the game?&lt;/strong&gt; I assume that if you wait until 2 players are positioned close to their goals, then eventually a situation might occur where the deadlock would be broken... but that's a rather tiresome conclusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3472" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T08:46:55.073" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T08:46:55.073" Title="Is 3-4 player endgame necessarily a deadlock?" Tags="|labyrinth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-11-04T13:02:17.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now with RTR we get Overgrown Tomb then in gatecrash Stomping Ground will be back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Id totally run a deck with 4 slaughter games, 4 Lost in the woods, 4 OGTombs and 4 Stomping grounds (+ forests)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly the idea is to play a lost in the woods, then slaughter games yourself for lost in the woods. Leaving only forests in your deck. Ask your opp if they have ench removal, Then simply draw go for 30 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure it wouldnt win, like anywhere. But it would be pretty damn funny when you did get that guy who didnt have 20 burn in his deck/no ench removal/no other win con.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3473" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T13:02:17.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9068" CreationDate="2012-11-04T15:22:17.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;shujaa's answer is completely correct for Texas Hold'em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other poker games where you are required to use a certain number of hole and community cards. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omaha_hold_%27em&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Omaha Hold'em&lt;/a&gt; is dealt similarly to Texas Hold'em, but each player gets 4 hole cards instead of 2; and in the showdown, your hand must use exactly two of your hole cards and three community cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T15:22:17.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9070" CreationDate="2012-11-04T18:06:57.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/8pn5wt94z/a_Maze_ing_Labyrinth_Rules.pdf?&quot;&gt;this translation of the rules&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;you can move your piece as far as you like down an open corridor&lt;/strong&gt;, not just one step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-04T18:06:57.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8891" CreationDate="2012-11-05T15:58:37.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come across a great article on the subject, wrote by Mario T. Lanza. It's available to read on The Games Journal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20210917061551/http://www.thegamesjournal.com/articles/TeachingRules.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Finer Points of Teaching Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in improving the way you explain rules of the games, I strongly suggest reading the whole article. Author mainly focuses on explaining his method of teaching the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Incremental Approach&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, The Incremental Approach has you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the board and components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distill the game down to a few sentences. (Less than a minute.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Paint an overview for the whole game. (1 to 3 minutes.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expand the overview using details—the finer points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cover the exceptions, if any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teach basic strategies and offer &amp;quot;fair warning.&amp;quot; (1 or 2 minutes.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that's not all. The article is really good and also addresses key issues mentioned in the question. Let me give you some more example quotes from the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Mentioning the goal of the game&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general objective, the means of attaining it, the scoring, and the&#xA;game-ending conditions are key aspects of the rules for all games. As&#xA;such, they are worthy of repetition. Cover them with a progressive&#xA;layer of depth as you drill down into your explanation. A listener's&#xA;growing understanding often enables him to grasp a rule that was&#xA;initially unclear. Repetition is neither wordy nor inefficient; it&#xA;improves clarity, understanding, and remembrance of the rules.&#xA;Besides, it's easy for your listeners to miss a detail when they're&#xA;being bombarded by so many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Answering questions asked during explanation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should undoubtedly expect some of your anxious listeners to&#xA;interrupt you with questions. Knowing which questions to answer&#xA;immediately and which to postpone is of utmost importance when giving&#xA;cohesive explanations. If your rules presentation will eventually&#xA;answer a question, politely say, &amp;quot;We'll get to that in a minute.&amp;quot;&#xA;Questions meant to clarify the rule you most recently explained should&#xA;be addressed immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you do, don't detour to answer every misplaced question as&#xA;this disturbs continuity, decreases clarity and disorganizes an&#xA;otherwise structured explanation. Although you may eventually cover&#xA;all the rules despite these many detours, your audience may actually&#xA;have a harder time remembering them. Through practice you'll develop a&#xA;knack for effectively handling, even anticipating, questions. More&#xA;often than not simply saying, &amp;quot;We'll get to that in a minute&amp;quot; will be&#xA;fine. People just want the comfort of knowing that their unanswered&#xA;questions will, indeed, be answered. Only when your audience is&#xA;entirely confused or is having a difficult time following, should you&#xA;consider revising your methods. Normally, if you use any thoughtfully&#xA;organized approach, this won't be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me finish with what I see as a &lt;strong&gt;motto from the article&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Because there will always be new games to play, there will always be new rules to teach.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2023-06-01T05:25:29.127" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T05:25:29.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9077" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:00:56.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarded by many as Reiner Knizia's masterpiece, the game is set in the ancient fertile crescent with players building civilizations through tile placement. Players are given four different leaders: farming, trading, religion, and government. The leaders are used to collect victory points in the same categories. However, your score at the end of the game is the number of points in your weakest category, which encourages players not to get overly specialized. Conflict arises when civilizations connect on the board, i.e., external conflicts, with only one leader of each type surviving such a conflict. Leaders can also be replaced within a civilization through internal conflicts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:05:42.123" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:05:42.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9078" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:00:56.063" Score="0" Body="Game set in the ancient fertile crescent with players building civilizations through tile placement. Players are given four different leaders: farming, trading, religion, and government. The leaders are used to collect victory points in the same categories. Since in each kingdom only one leader can be in charge of each category, internal and external conflicts are almost unavoidable... " OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:05:50.953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:05:50.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9079" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:18:34.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trivial Pursuit is the original trivia game that started it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player has a circular playing piece with six pie-shaped holes. The goal of the game is to collect a pie in each color. The colors correspond to different question categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board consists of a circular track with spaces in seven different colors. Six of the colors correspond to question categories while the last color gives a new dice roll. Six spaces along the track are &quot;pie spaces&quot;, and from these there are &quot;spokes&quot; of track leading to the middle of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players roll a die and move along the track in any direction they like. When a player stops on a color they get a question of the appropriate category. If the player answers a question correctly while on a pie space, they get a pie of that color (assuming they don't already have it). A correct answer on another square allows the player to roll again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the player has one pie in each color, she can move along the spokes to the middle of the board to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:05:34.123" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:05:34.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9080" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:18:34.573" Score="0" Body="Each player has a circular playing piece with six pie-shaped holes. The goal of the game is to collect a pie in each color. The colors correspond to different question categories.&#xD;&#xA;Players roll a die and move along the track. When a player stops on a color they get a question of the appropriate category. If the player answers a question correctly while on a pie space, they get a pie of that color." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:05:56.383" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:05:56.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9081" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:28:25.683" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seasons is a game of cards and dice which takes place in two phases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first phase consists of a draft: the goal during this phase will be to establish a strategy for the rest of the game with 9 cards that can be selected (Each card has a specific effect and earns victory points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the draft is complete, each player must separate his 9 cards into 3 packs of 3 cards. He will begin the second phase of the game with his first pack of three cards, then gradually as the game progresses, he will receive the other two packets of three cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next comes the second phase of play: at the beginning of each round a player will roll the seasons dice (dice = number of players +1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cubes offer a variety of actions to the players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increase your invocation (maximum number of cards you may have placed on table)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harvesting energy (water, earth, fire, air) to pay the cost of invocation maps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crystallization energy (during the current season) to collect crystals. These serve both as a resource to rely on some cards, but also many victory points in the endgame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw new cards ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player can choose only one die per turn. The first player will choose among those launched, then the following among those remaining and so on. At each turn, the dice indicate how many remaining cells (1, 2 or 3 boxes) the marker of the seasons ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, all the dice are different depending on the season. For example, there is not the same energies to a particular season. Throughout the game, players will therefore have to adapt to these changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game we add the points of victory on the cards given the number of crystals possessed. The player with the most victory points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:05:45.510" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:05:45.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9082" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T17:28:25.683" Score="0" Body="Players participate in the legendary tournament of the 12 Seasons. Your goal is to raise the most victory points by gathering energy, summoning familiars and magic items. If you amass enough crystals and symbols of prestige, you will become the kingdom's most illustrious mage. Optimize the cards through skilful combinations, using the seasons wisely to access the energies of crystals and become the the new Archmage of the kingdom of Xidit." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:05:59.287" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:05:59.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5474" CreationDate="2012-11-05T18:07:09.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usgo.org/go-internet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.usgo.org/go-internet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;List of both &lt;em&gt;Real Time Servers&lt;/em&gt;, as well as &lt;em&gt;Turn-Based Servers&lt;/em&gt; (which I heard are recommended for beginners because of no time-limit). Some of the sites mentioned in answers here might be found on this list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't really tried many of the sites mentioned on the list, because I'm just beginning my adventure with Go. So I can't recommend any of the available links for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T18:07:09.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9084" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:09:35.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ora et Labora, each player is head of a monastery in the Medieval era who acquires land and constructs buildings – little enterprises that will gain resources and profit. The goal is to build a working infrastructure and manufacture prestigious items – such as books, ceramics, ornaments, and relics – to gain the most victory points at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ora et Labora, Uwe Rosenberg's fifth &quot;big&quot; game, has game play mechanisms similar to his Le Havre, such as two-sided resource tiles that can be upgraded from a basic item to something more useful. Instead of adding resources to the board turn by turn as in Agricola and Le Havre, Ora et Labora uses a numbered rondel to show how many of each resource is available at any time. At the beginning of each round, players turn the rondel by one segment, adjusting the counts of all resources at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player has a personal game board. New buildings enter the game from time to time, and players can construct them on their game boards with the building materials they gather, with some terrain restrictions on what can be built where. Some spaces start with trees or moors on them, as in Agricola: Farmers of the Moor, so they hinder development until a player clears the land, but they provide resources when they are removed. Clever building on your personal game board will impact your final score, and players can buy additional terrain during the game, if needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players also have three workers who can enter buildings to take the action associated with that location. Workers must stay in place until you've placed all three. You can enter your own buildings with these workers, but to enter and use another player's buildings, you must pay that player an entry fee so that he'll move one of his workers into that building to do the work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ora et Labora features two variants: France and Ireland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:35:24.003" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:35:24.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9085" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:09:35.787" Score="0" Body="In Ora et Labora, each player is head of a monastery in the Medieval era who acquires land and constructs buildings – little enterprises that will gain resources and profit. The goal is to build a working infrastructure and manufacture prestigious items – such as books, ceramics, ornaments, and relics – to gain the most victory points at the end of the game." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:35:26.717" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:35:26.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9086" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:11:37.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Game description from the publisher:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An infectiously fun non-collectible card game for 2-4 players, Infernal Contraption pits goblin mechanics against each other in a race to assemble often-backfiring, nigh-uncontrollable magical machines. Through the strategic placement of arcane components like arcantric funnels, chthonic grinders, and entropic processors, these bodgers risk life and limb to overcome the competition with the ultimate Infernal Contraption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second edition of &lt;em&gt;Infernal Contraption&lt;/em&gt; includes cards from the &lt;em&gt;Sabotage!&lt;/em&gt; expansion and a special promo card for the Bodgers Game Heap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:34:33.067" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:34:33.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9087" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:11:37.627" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:11:37.627" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:11:37.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9088" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:17:00.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players attract artists and scholars trying to become the most prestigious family in Florence. Each player is given a palace grid and reference chart and attempts to gain the most victory points after seven rounds. Scoring victory points can be done in a variety of ways although most will be earned by playing profession cards to generate work points. There are a variety of professions such as astronomers, organists and architects. Each is attracted to a particular combination of building, landscape feature, and social freedom. The more the player can match these preferences then the more work points are generated. If a player satisfies the minimum requirement of work points, which increases each round, then the work can be created and the player can then trade the work points for cash and/or victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:21:07.253" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:21:07.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9089" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:17:00.353" Score="0" Body="Players assume the roles of Florentine Princes who wish to design their own villas to allow artists to create great works of prestige. Through seven rounds, each containing an auction phase and two action phases, the Princes pay for landscaping, buildings, freedoms, and various services and bonuses. At the end of the seven rounds, whoever has the most Prestige Points wins." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:21:12.277" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:21:12.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9090" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:18:26.813" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T19:18:26.813" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:18:26.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9091" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:18:26.813" Score="0" Body="Zombicide is a collaborative game in which players take the role of a survivor – each with unique abilities – and harness both their skills and the power of teamwork against the hordes of unthinking undead! Zombies are predictable, stupid but deadly, controlled by simple rules and a deck of cards. Unfortunately for you, there are a LOT more zombies than you have bullets." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:17:08.657" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:17:08.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9092" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:25:18.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the 13th century, construction of the greatest and most beautiful cathedral in England begins. Players are builders who try to contribute the most to this cathedral's construction and, in so doing, score the most victory points. Gameplay roughly consists of using workers to produce raw materials, and then using craftsmen to convert the materials into victory points. Workers may also be used to produce gold, the currency of the game. Players are also given three master builders each turn, each of which can do a variety of tasks, including recruiting more workers, buying or selling goods, or just obtaining victory points. Getting early choices with a master builder costs gold, as does purchasing better craftsmen. Players must strike a balance between earning gold to fund their purchases and earning victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:16:33.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:16:33.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9093" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:25:18.120" Score="0" Body="The Pillars of the Earth is a game based on Ken Follett's best-selling novel. Players join together to help build Kingsbridge Cathedral. Using your workmen and resources, you must wisely deploy assets to overcome unexpected difficulties and shortages to prove yourself the greatest builder of them all. Will your efforts be recognized when the Great Cathedral at Kingsbridge is complete?" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:15:27.330" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:15:27.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9094" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:28:50.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Survive is a cutthroat game where players seek to evacuate their pieces from an island that is breaking up, while remembering where their highest-valued pieces are located to maximize their score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An island made up of 40 hex-tiles is slowly sinking into the ocean (as the tiles are removed from the board). Each player controls ten people (valued from 1 to 6) that they try and move towards the safety of the surrounding islands before the main island finally blows up. Players can either swim or use boats to travel but must avoid sea serpents, whales and sharks on their way to safety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Survive is very similar to Escape from Atlantis with some key differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:19:55.350" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:19:55.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9095" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:28:50.240" Score="0" Body="Survive is a cutthroat game where players seek to evacuate their pieces from an island that is breaking up, while remembering where their highest-valued pieces are located to maximize their score. Each player controls ten people that they try and move towards the safety of the surrounding islands before the main island finally blows up. Players can either swim or use boats to travel but must avoid sea serpents, whales and sharks on their way to safety." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:15:47.313" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:15:47.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9097" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:34:29.540" Score="5" ViewCount="9288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to do a calculation for modern masters that is coming out next year and to complete it I need to know, How many commons, uncommons, rares and mythics are in a regular set of mtg(Scars of mirrodin for example)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3477" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-01-18T20:16:05.567" LastActivityDate="2018-01-18T20:16:05.567" Title="What's the number of cards per rarity in a regular set of MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9096" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:41:41.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Modern Masters contains 229 cards (101 commons, 60 uncommons, 53 rares, and 15 mythic rares).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Scars of Mirrodin set contains 249 cards (101 common, 60 uncommon, 53 rare, 15 mythic rare, and 20 basic land).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/218&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/218&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3478" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T19:41:41.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9098" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:50:43.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The characters of Alice in Wonderland are having a Parade!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All players are producers of this parade. Characters from Lewis Carroll's books such as Alice, The White Rabbit, and The Mad Hatter are steadily invited to join this weird procession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, you play a card (from your hand of five) to the end of the parade. Unfortunately, that card might cause other cards to walk off the parade. These cards count as negative points in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The length of parade line is important. If the number of the card you just played is less than the line length, you may receive the excess cards (counting from last played to the first of the line). But you do not take all cards, only the cards that meet one of these requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;color is the same as just played, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number is the same or lower than just played&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends when the draw deck is exhausted or when one player has collected all six colors in their point piles. Then everyone plays one last card. From the four cards remaining in their hand, players choose two cards to add to his or her point piles. The player who has the least negative points after this is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring:&#xA;Normally, negative points are same the number on the card. But if you have the most cards in a certain color, each of your cards of that color counts only 1 negative point!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, play your cards well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:16:17.610" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:16:17.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9099" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T19:50:43.840" Score="0" Body="The characters of Alice in Wonderland are having a Parade! All players are producers of this weird procession. On your turn, you play a card to the end of the parade. Unfortunately, that card might cause other cards to walk off the parade. These cards count as negative points - the player who has the least negative points  in the end is the winner." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:35:16.983" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:35:16.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9100" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T20:25:14.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2010, designer Klaus Teuber overhauled the two-player Catan card game with the release of The Rivals for Catan – released in Germany as Die Fürsten von Catan – and in 2011 Teuber, Kosmos and Mayfair Games present a new multi-player card game set in the Catan universe: The Struggle for Catan, aka, Die Siedler von Catan: Das schnelle Kartenspiel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in the original &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/settlers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'settlers-of-catan'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;settlers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt; board game, players need to manage their resources in order to build settlements, roads, cities, city improvements and knights, all of which grant victory points (VPs) or special abilities. Control of roads and knights can change hands during the game, so don't assume that what's yours will stay yours. City improvements are expensive, but they bring you additional VPs and other bonuses, so strive to spiff up your cities! The first player to have ten VPs wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is dice-less and resource gain and exchanging is based on each player's developments making this version less luck dependent than the original. A twist in the game is that certain developments are limited and can be stolen from other players once there are no new ones left. The first player to gain 10 victory points, wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that Kosmos lists this game with a 30-minute playing time, while Mayfair Games sets the playing time at 45-60 minutes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mixing two copies of game, can be played with 5 and 6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:15:53.103" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:15:53.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9101" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T20:25:14.717" Score="0" Body="As in the original The Settlers of Catan board game, players need to manage their resources in order to build settlements, roads, cities, city improvements and knights, all of which grant victory points or special abilities. Control of roads and knights can change hands during the game, so don't assume that what's yours will stay yours. City improvements are expensive, but they bring you additional VPs and other bonuses, so strive to spiff up your cities!" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T01:16:39.407" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T01:16:39.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9112" CreationDate="2012-11-05T21:44:38.463" Score="18" ViewCount="11685" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it allowed to move the robber, but not take a random resource from another player?&lt;/strong&gt; Avoiding stealing a resource may sound odd. One reason you might want to: you need to play a soldier card to move the robber, both to block another player from getting resources and to remove the robber from a vital hex for yourself. However, you already have seven cards in hand, and gaining one would put you at risk of discarding if a seven is rolled afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few more related special cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you move the robber to the hex with no adjacent settlements (no stealing)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if the only player whose city is adjacent to hex of your choosing has no resources - can you move the robber there?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if there are two cities adjacent from two players, but only one of them has resources - do you have to steal one from him or can you choose to steal from the player with empty hand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T13:37:42.420" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T17:28:59.640" Title="Avoiding stealing a resource when moving the robber in Catan" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9103" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:10:36.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players collect ingredients cards in order to cast spells, and the first player to get rid of all of their spells wins the game. So far so good. The bad news is, the cards require between 1 and 4 ingredients. Spells requiring 3 or 4 ingredients might actually help you win the game. Spells requiring 1 or 2 ingredients cause another player to perform a forfeit, e.g proposing to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Published in:  1997&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T05:20:02.077" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T05:20:02.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9104" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:10:36.167" Score="0" Body="Players collect ingredients cards in order to cast spells, and the first player to get rid of all of their spells wins the game. So far so good. The bad news is, the cards require between 1 and 4 ingredients. Spells requiring 3 or 4 ingredients might actually help you win the game. Spells requiring 1 or 2 ingredients cause another player to perform a forfeit, e.g proposing to another player." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:19:01.170" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:19:01.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9105" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:13:49.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This unique children's game spawned a whole line of Labyrinth games. The board has a set of tiles fixed solidly onto it; the remaining tiles that make up the labyrinth slide in and out of the rows made on the board. There is always one tile not in the labyrinth. Players take turns taking this extra tile and sliding it into a row on the labyrinth, moving all the tiles and pushing one out the other side of the board, which becomes the piece for the next player to add to the maze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players move around the shifting tunnels of the labyrinth in a race to collect various treasures. Whoever collects all of their treasures first and returns to their home space wins!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is very simple at first glance and is an excellent puzzle-solving game for children; it can also be played among adults using more strategy and more of a cutthroat approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:34:28.183" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:34:28.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9106" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:13:49.250" Score="0" Body="This is a unique children's game. The board has a set of tiles fixed solidly onto it; the remaining tiles that make up the labyrinth slide in and out of the rows made on the board. There is always one tile not in the labyrinth. Players take turns taking this extra tile and sliding it into a row on the labyrinth, moving all the tiles and pushing one out the other side of the board, which becomes the piece for the next player to add to the maze." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:20:11.530" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:20:11.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9107" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:20:56.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clear your throat and drink that honey-lemon tea: It's time to play Encore, the game of dueling larynxes. The goal is to come up with a song that contains particular words--and then sing lines from the song that contains those words. Here's how it works: The first team turns up a card featuring five words; the two teams then take turns singing at least six words of any song that contains one of those five. The round continues until one team is stumped, which, if the word is &quot;love,&quot; could take a while. But repetition is not allowed, and for every &quot;said&quot; and &quot;moon,&quot; there's a &quot;highway&quot; or &quot;piano&quot;--whaddya do when you've exhausted the Billy Joel songbook? And it's great to draw a lyric that's in a song title, but if you don't know five others that come after, you'll be like the player who drew &quot;nice&quot;; he spent the entire run of the sand timer with his shoulders hunched like Sinatra because he couldn't connect &quot;and let's make all the stops along the way&quot; with the song's title, &quot;Nice 'N' Easy.&quot; Oh, and don't play Encore with Renaissance Faire actors--when they draw the word &quot;lady,&quot; they'll come up with an inexhaustible supply of 15th-century madrigals. Only after they've won will you discover that they were all bogus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--Tony Mason (description from &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00000JKL7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T03:34:08.370" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T03:34:08.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9108" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:20:56.423" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-05T22:20:56.423" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T22:20:56.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9102" CreationDate="2012-11-05T22:55:28.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you play a Knight Card, you must immediately move the&#xA;  robber. See “Rolling a ‘7’ and Activating the Robber” above&#xA;  and follow steps 1 and 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1 tells you how to move the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 2 tells you to randomly take a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the rules of the game and they're quite clear.  It certain cases it is understandable not to want to take a card.  Absent a rule allowing that, you must take the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-11-05T22:55:28.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8245" CreationDate="2012-11-06T04:55:49.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is any particular logic to the suit distribution in the Decktet. A quick search of BoardGameGeek didn't turn up any comments by P.D. Magnus (the designer of the Decktet, who is active in their forums) on the distribution either. I haven't been able to commit the distribution to memory, but if you want to, this is what you would need to memorize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QbLGK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chart of suit combinations by rank&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yUvJF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Table showing pairwise suit combinations, and which ranks they apply to&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are taken from the Decktet Charts and tables pdf available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/52924/decktet-charts-and-tables&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another useful view of which combinations of suits are most prevelent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Axdl9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;HenryBlatbugIII&amp;#39;s chart of card distribution from BGG&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an image by HenryBlatbugIII from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/866761/henryblatbugiii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T17:56:26.687" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T17:56:26.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9102" CreationDate="2012-11-06T04:57:07.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in some cases, but you'd have to work at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can move the robber to a hex that is not adjacent to anyone. Even to the desert (this wasn't always the case.) You can move the robber next to someone who has no cards and choose to steal from them, even if the robber is also next to someone who has cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can't do is move the robber next to someone and choose not to steal resources from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact steps are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pick a new hex for the Robber and move it there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pick someone with an adjacent settlement or city.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take one random resource from them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T04:57:07.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9102" CreationDate="2012-11-06T05:04:39.527" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering the question and its follow-ups:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In general, you are not allowed to decline to take a resource.&lt;/strong&gt; Page 12 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; gives a more detailed explanation of the rule Pat Ludwig cited. There is no option about whether or not to take a resource card if you place the robber next to a city/settlement of one or more players, all of whom have at least one resource card. However, as the answers to your other questions will indicate, you can may have some tactics to wiggle out of this requirement if you really want to move the robber  away but not get your (presumably 8th) resource.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can deliberately place the robber in a spot where you will not able to steal a card.&lt;/strong&gt; P. 12 again states, &quot;You &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; move the robber away from his current spot and&#xA;onto the number token of &lt;em&gt;any other&lt;/em&gt; terrain hex.&quot; (p. 11 clarifies that the desert is legal even though it does not contain a number token.) &lt;em&gt;Any other&lt;/em&gt; indicates that a hex is legal even if it contains no neighbors that have a stealable resource.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can deliberately choose to steal from a player who has no resources.&lt;/strong&gt; Again from p. 12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are 2 or more such players, you may choose your victim.&#xA;  The player you elect to rob keeps his cards face down while&#xA;  you take 1 of his cards at random. If he has no cards, you get&#xA;  nothing!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T05:04:39.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9113" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-06T07:18:06.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lord of the Rings is a co-operative game where the object is to destroy the Ring while surviving the corrupting influence of Sauron. Each player plays one of the Hobbits in the fellowship, each of which has a unique power. The game is played on a number of boards: the Master board indicates both the physical progress of the fellowship across Middle Earth and the corrupting influence of Sauron on the hobbits, and a number of scenario boards which detail the events and adventures of particular locations. Progression across the boards is determined by playing cards (many of which represent the characters and items of Middle Earth), and the effects of corruption are represented by a special die. The game is lost if the ring-bearer is overcome by Sauron, or won if the ring is destroyed by throwing it into the volcanic fires of Mount Doom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T13:01:51.920" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T13:01:51.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9114" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-06T07:18:06.983" Score="0" Body="Lord of the Rings is a co-operative game played by 2-5 Players. The object of the game is to destroy the Ring while surviving the corrupting influence of Sauron. Each player plays one of the Hobbits in the fellowship, each of which has a unique power. The game is played on a number of boards." OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T13:01:47.630" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T13:01:47.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2012-11-06T13:59:18.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/97842/last-will&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Last Will&lt;/a&gt;, the starting player is &lt;em&gt;the one who paid for something most recently&lt;/em&gt;. Since purchasing is pretty common activity, it is fairly random to select starting player this way - unless of course someone deribelately pays for something just before the start of the game. However, in most cases, this method of selecting starting player should guarantee that this won't be the same person over and over again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is it better than just randomly selecting starting player? Maybe it's not, though I like to think that &lt;strong&gt;this adds a little more spirit to the game&lt;/strong&gt; - selecting player who is &lt;em&gt;most connected&lt;/em&gt; with the game at the time, or who seems to be &lt;em&gt;best for the job&lt;/em&gt;. This might be silly, but I would prefer talking with other players, learn something about them (maybe someone has a funny story about his last purchase or maybe he's not really sure if giving his child money for the theatre can count as paying him to get lost for couple of hours). It can be a really good ice-breaker for new players at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to think that this is usually much &lt;strong&gt;more social and fun&lt;/strong&gt; than just rolling dice by 5+ players and comparing results. If you would like to see the example, please go to the discussion about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6703/who-goes-first-in-pandemic&quot;&gt;Who goes first in Pandemic?&lt;/a&gt;. Rules say that &lt;em&gt;the player who was most recently sick goes first&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It means the person who has most recently been a victim of bioterrorism - &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1885/the-chaz&quot;&gt;The Chaz&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T13:59:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1978" CreationDate="2012-11-06T14:31:35.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to speed up auctions, have everyone submit one sealed bid (this is known as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First-price_sealed-bid_auction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;first-price sealed-bid auction&lt;/a&gt;). The property is sold to the highest bidder for the price he bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note - I haven't actually played this rule in Monopoly, but I did buy a real property in this kind of auction as it is the way property is usually sold in Scotland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T14:31:35.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9127" CreationDate="2012-11-06T19:11:15.327" Score="8" ViewCount="2371" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Battlestar Galactica basic game, what is the most critical resource between Fuel, Food, Morale and Population?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it change with the 6-player FFG optional rule where humans start with 8 Fuel, 7 Food, 9 Morale and 10 Population?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-06T21:05:13.193" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:14:54.710" Title="Battlestar Galactica: what is the most critical resource?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9118" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9120" CreationDate="2012-11-06T20:22:03.030" Score="7" ViewCount="96141" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a popular Scrabble variation that: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;lets you play double/triple word scores twice, once vertically and &#xA;once horizontally? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;does NOT let you play double/triple letter scores twice? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I've always played, so it surprised me to learn that &#xA;official Scrabble rules do NOT permit using double/triple word scores &#xA;twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this was true in an older version of Scrabble (I started &#xA;playing in the 70s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user639" LastActivityDate="2022-07-31T03:27:45.003" Title="Scrabble variation: use double and triple word scores (but not double/triple letter scores) twice?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2012-11-06T23:22:17.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I searched &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.donaldsauter.com/scrabble-rules.htm&quot;&gt;Changes to the Box Top Rules, 1949 - 1999&lt;/a&gt; and found the following clarification was made in 1953:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1953: If a word is formed that covers two premium WORD squares, the score is doubled and then re-doubled (4 times letter count), or tripled and then re-tripled (9 times letter count) as the case may be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the rules was there any mention of being able to use the same premium square twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.scrabble-assoc.com/Images/Images/scrabbledeluxediamondanniversaryedition040488.pdf&quot;&gt;Diamond Anniversary Edition&lt;/a&gt; rules includes some interesting variations, but does not mention your scoring rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would find your scoring variation confusing and prone to error, since Scrabble tiles are not transparent, and therefore a novice may have trouble realizing that they are reusing a premium word square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2012-11-06T23:22:17.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9063" CreationDate="2012-11-07T00:26:50.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get $200 for passing GO only in a FORWARD direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &quot;pass&quot; GO by &quot;going BACK three spaces&quot; to Mayfair, you do not earn $200.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you get $200 for landing on, or passing go, but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T00:26:50.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8958" CreationDate="2012-11-07T00:37:00.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;ethics&quot; of bridge are higher than for other games, such as poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In poker, it is perfectly ethical to bluff. Not so, in bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you should not hesitate when the choice is obvious. You ARE allowed to falsecard when you have, say, J-T. Then if you hesitate, it makes more sense (but you should then falsecard the J if you hesitate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only excuse for hesitating with the single T is if you ALWAYS hesitate. Then you aren't giving information, false or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T00:37:00.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2012-11-07T01:22:19.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer Descriptive Notation, mainly because it's what I grew up with, and I can visualize the moves without the board (though not good enough to play blindfolded).  I have to translate (at least in my head), when reading algebraic notation (and do that easier if I have a picture of a board in front of me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3482" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T01:22:19.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9117" CreationDate="2012-11-07T04:41:12.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really varies based on how things turn out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel: this you know you will be using it as you travel. If you're low, you can always scout ahead to get the good destinations, but it's hard to regain and you have to burn fuel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food: with all of the food and water shortages in the deck, some games can drain this quickly. If you're getting these, it becomes quite vital. Galactica and civilians have some to lose also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morale: many cards have morale losses. It's easy to lose and is on cards with options of losing it. Keep in mind the president can make a speech to improve morale. Other than that, it's hard to regain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Population: cards don't kill as many people. Some do, but be careful. If you draw lots of blue cards, or can't scramble pilots quickly, you could be in trouble. The civilian ships have a lot of population. Lose the double population ships, and you'll go down fast. Late fame, if you haven't had civilian ship loss, this can still be very high. It starts higher than the others, so it makes a great spot to dump losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T04:41:12.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-07T04:57:56.730" Score="-2" ViewCount="304" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flamebreak&quot;&gt;Flamebreak&lt;/a&gt; during the MTG pc game, and I had a 5/4 without flying. I used it, and the 5/4 died! Why? It says it only deals 3 dmg to non-flying creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3483" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T05:05:45.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:40:49.457" Title="Question about MTG card Flamebreak" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-04T05:34:01.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9125" CreationDate="2012-11-07T05:03:49.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can't tell why your creature died from the limited information you gave because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flamebreak&quot;&gt;Flamebreak&lt;/a&gt; alone would not have killed your creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe your creature's toughness was being buffed by the static ability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; other creature that died from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flamebreak&quot;&gt;Flamebreak&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe your creature already had damage marked on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe your creature received damage from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=266050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something&lt;/a&gt; soon after &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flamebreak&quot;&gt;Flamebreak&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=135206&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something&lt;/a&gt; debuffed your creature's toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205268&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;something&lt;/a&gt; doubled the damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe ...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T21:40:49.457" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T21:40:49.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9117" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:04:29.087" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with most games, &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;. It would most likely shift some using the variant rule as well, but it isn't clear to me exactly which way. You lose the game if any resource hits 0, but depending upon different game states, different resources may be more important than others. For example, if you are already at 8 distance, you can probably safely allow Fuel to be reduced to 1 rather than Morale which comes up more often on the Crisis cards. If your President is a cylon on the other hand, they most likely won't be giving Inspirational Speeches to improve your morale (even worse, if your Admiral is a cylon too). Which characters are being played in the game, and which (if any) are cylons probably has the biggest effect on the importance of individual resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/3544576#3544576&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;analysis that someone wrote up on BGG&lt;/a&gt;.  The major points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fuel:&lt;/strong&gt; You start with 8, and you need to travel 8. There are 21 destination cards, and most Destination cards allow you to move one, at the cost of one fuel. You need to save/gain fuel at some point. One third of the cards allow you to move 2, but only cost 1 fuel. Of the 70 Crisis cards, 10 can cost you fuel, but in half of those the Admiral is given a choice of losing other resources instead. &lt;strong&gt;If the Admiral isn't a cylon, it is unlikely you will run out of fuel.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Food:&lt;/strong&gt; You start with 8. Food is a volatile resource. Food Shortage shows up 9 times in the crisis deck, and the President has the option of throwing away cards or losing food. On 6 other skill check cards, if you fail to pass you lose food, these vary in color. Food is one of the few resources where it is possible to lose two steps in a single turn. &lt;strong&gt;If the President isn't a cylon, it is unlikely you will run out of food.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Morale:&lt;/strong&gt; You start with 10. Morale is very skill check dependent, and in 19 of the 70 cards it is possible to lose morale. Most checks are Green and Yellow. Most of the skill check are pretty easy to pass. In 9 of the cards, the Admiral has a choice of losing Morale or other resources. The president can give Inspirational Speeches to raise morale (4 of 17 Quorum cards). &lt;strong&gt;Horde Yellow and Green cards to avoid losing Morale, and pray your Admiral isn't a cylon.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Population&lt;/strong&gt; You start with 12. Most civilian ships have 1 population. 12 Skill checks have the potential of losing population, but 4 of those give you a choice, leaving only 8 must pass skill checks. The checks are usually very hard to pass, and usually require tactics. If you defend your civilian ships, you can use the FTL early, and lose 5 skill checks, and still not lose due to 0 population. &lt;strong&gt;If you don't lose civilian ships to cylon attacks, you can jump early and avoid more Crisis cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also might want to check out a rather &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/39602/card-distribution-and-breakdown-misc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;detailed distribution&lt;/a&gt; of the cards in Battlestar Galactica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:04:29.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9128" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:11:41.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The foray into space, sometime near the year 2700 A.D. Compete for the prestigious post of Ambassador to the Galactic Council. To attain this lofty position, players must leave Terra and the known planets to explore and colonize the galaxy, while working to establish trade with alien cultures, encounter aliens, and defeat pirates. Glory and victory go to the brave and astute explorer upon whom luck smiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The known worlds lie at one end of the game board, where each of the 3 or 4 players begins from known solar systems, each with 3 planets producing raw materials needed for the travels into deep space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player begins with 2 Colonies and a Space Port (all components are made from plastic). The Space Port makes starships to transport your new colonies and trade posts to distant lands. Throughout the game, all the colonies and spaceports enable the production of resources when the dice match the numbers of adjacent planets. Resources are traded for colony ships, trade ships, and fleet upgrades of freight rings, booster rockets, and cannon. Beware as you explore—some planets are covered in ice, and some conceal dangerous pirates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Notice: If your box does not contain 4 grey plastic rings to fit over the mother ships, do not attach the engines onto the ships. The mother ships are made of a hard, brittle plastic, and when you put the engines on, or pull them off, the teeth break, no matter how careful you are. The makers learned this and now provide the 4 rings upon request.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:47:56.113" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:47:56.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9129" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:11:41.430" Score="0" Body="The foray into space, sometime near the year 2700 A.D. Compete for the prestigious post of Ambassador to the Galactic Council. To attain this lofty position, players must leave Terra and the known planets to explore and colonize the galaxy, while working to establish trade with alien cultures, encounter aliens, and defeat pirates. Glory and victory go to the brave and astute explorer upon whom luck smiles." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:07.470" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:07.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9130" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:17:16.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starship Catan is a two-player card game that is thematically similar to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/starfarers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'starfarers-of-catan'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;starfarers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt;, but has different game play. Players explore randomly shuffled decks of cards looking for potential colonies, good trading deals, opportunities to help planets, and either avoid or combat pirates. Players can upgrade their ships' systems, including weapons to combat the pirates, thrusters to be able to explore further each turn, scanners to see (and avoid) cards that are coming up, and several others. Victory points are earned by establishing colonies, building upgraded ship's systems, having the most friendship points, and having the most hero points. The first player to 10 VP's wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:00.637" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:00.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9131" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:17:16.743" Score="0" Body="Starship Catan is a 2-player card game. Players explore randomly shuffled decks of cards looking for potential colonies, good trading deals, opportunities to help planets, and either avoid or combat pirates. Players can upgrade their ships' systems, including weapons, thrusters, scanners and several others. VPs are earned by establishing colonies, building upgraded ship's systems, having the most friendship points, and having the most hero points." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:30.807" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:30.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9132" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:21:26.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cooperative game of adventure for 1-5 players set in the world of Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A heavy shadow falls across the land, cast by a dark spire that belches smoke and oozes fiery lava. A cave mouth leads to a maze of tunnels and chambers, and deep within this monster-infested labyrinth lurks the most terrifying creature of all: a red dragon!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designed for 1-5 players, this boardgame features multiple scenarios, challenging quests, and cooperative game play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:49:01.460" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:49:01.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9133" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:21:26.410" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game of adventure for 1-5 players set in the world of Dungeons &amp; Dragons.&#xD;&#xA;A heavy shadow falls across the land, cast by a dark spire that belches smoke and oozes fiery lava. A cave mouth leads to a maze of tunnels and chambers, and deep within this monster-infested labyrinth lurks the most terrifying creature of all: a red dragon! Designed for 1-5 players, this game features multiple scenarios, challenging quests, and cooperative game play." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:47.843" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:47.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9134" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:22:52.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The players act as traders trying to get victory points for building a network of offices, controlling cities, collecting bonus markers or for other traders using the cities they control. After controlling a line between two cities with your pawns you can decide to build an office (and maybe also establish control and/or get a bonus marker) or to get a skill improvement from some of the cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have to improve their traders' &quot;skills&quot; for the following effects: getting more VP from offices in their network, getting more available action points, increasing the number of available pawns, and getting the right to place pawns and get more special pawns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game appeared originally as Wettstreit der Händler at the Hippodice competition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:27.733" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:27.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9135" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:22:52.010" Score="0" Body="The players act as traders trying to get victory points for building a network of offices, controlling cities, collecting bonus markers or for other traders using the cities they control. After controlling a line between two cities with your pawns you can decide to build an office (and maybe also establish control and/or get a bonus marker) or to get a skill improvement from some of the cities." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:04.100" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:04.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9136" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:25:35.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the popular Mage Knights system, but utilizing super hero characters from the Marvel and DC Comics Universe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game plays much like a miniatures game, but without the measure-and-move system or the constant consultation of hit charts. Rather, most of the vital statistical information is directly on the base of the characters, which can be rotated as characters take damage from hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we're talking super heroes here, each character has special abilities and powers, which give the game its 'comic' book feel. While these powers are listed on separate charts, sometimes the interaction of these powers can cause confusion. Official FAQ can be found at the Wiz Kids website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:23.380" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:23.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9137" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:25:35.143" Score="0" Body="Based on the popular Mage Knights system, but utilizing super hero characters from the Marvel and DC Comics Universe. The game plays much like a miniatures game, but without the measure-and-move system or the constant consultation of hit charts. Rather, most of the vital statistical information is directly on the base of the characters, which can be rotated as characters take damage from hits." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T08:48:44.830" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T08:48:44.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9138" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:29:45.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;World Without End is based on the novel by Ken Follett, a sequel to his bestselling &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/the-pillars-of-the-earth&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'the-pillars-of-the-earth'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;the-pillars-of-the-earth&lt;/a&gt;. This is the 2009 game in the Kosmos line of literature-based games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;World Without End shares the Kingsbridge location of the earlier novel, but occurs 200 years later. Similarly, the game shares many themes but is a new standalone game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As citizens of Kingsbridge, players need to take care of the following areas: Building, Trading, Religion, Feeding, and Medical Knowledge. Each turn an event card is flipped that defines available player actions. Victory points can be won in numerous ways, e.g. by creating buildings or taking care of sick people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:54:21.473" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:54:21.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9139" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:29:45.607" Score="0" Body="World Without End is based on the novel by Ken Follett, a sequel to his bestselling The Pillars of the Earth. As citizens of Kingsbridge, players need to take care of the following areas: Building, Trading, Religion, Feeding, and Medical Knowledge. Each turn an event card is flipped that defines available player actions. Victory points can be won in numerous ways, e.g. by creating buildings or taking care of sick people." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:54:41.457" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:54:41.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9140" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:33:56.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Decktet is a 36-card deck of cards in 6 suits. Each suit has 10 cards, a thing accomplished by most of the cards being double-suited. Most of the cards also have a name and illustration. The Decktet is a game system released under an open license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is available in a free print-and-play version. There are also printed decks available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are dozens of different games that can be played with the Decktet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:55:02.907" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:55:02.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9141" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:33:56.677" Score="0" Body="The Decktet is a 36-card deck of cards in 6 suits. Each suit has 10 cards, a thing accomplished by most of the cards being double-suited. Most of the cards also have a name and illustration. The Decktet is a game system released under an open license. It is available in a free print-and-play version. There are also printed decks available for purchase. There are dozens of different games that can be played with the Decktet." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:56:05.277" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:56:05.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9142" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:41:42.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The year is 1947, and World War II still rages, fueled by the discovery of alien technology. The world's superpowers have developed unprecedented weaponry, including lasers, phaser cannons, and massive combat walkers. These war machines stride across the battlefield, protected by their heavy armor, and devastate enemy troops with their fearsome cannons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dust Warfare, players assume the roles of generals, each commanding a custom-built army of squads, walkers, and heroes. Draw upon Axis might or Allied versatility as you wage ferocious battles for control of the rare ore, VK, needed to fuel the most powerful of the superpowers' weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dust Warfare rulebook introduces unprecedented player engagement. Players first get drawn into the action during the Command Phase, where you have to choose how to spend command points during an escalating battle. You might spend command points early and often to advance and sustain an early lead, or you might save them up for dramatic late-game effects that may decisively turn the tide of battle. The Command Phase presents players with the chance to exert their influence and command style upon the field of battle in an engaging new way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have the chance to activate all their forces during the Unit Phase, and reaction mechanisms keep you fully engaged throughout your opponent's turns. As enemy units close in on yours or begin to open fire, you can choose to spend actions from your next turn to react. Keen commanders will make good use of their reaction options. They will also learn how best to feint and bait their opponents to react, draining them of available actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designed by renowned miniatures guru Andy Chambers, the Dust Warfare: Core Rulebook integrates dynamic and engaging new game design with the stunning models from Dust Tactics. Dust Warfare players build armies from the exact same set of miniatures as Dust Tactics. As both games go forward, they will continue to draw from the same wealth of fantastically detailed miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:54:37.790" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:54:37.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9143" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:41:42.157" Score="0" Body="The year is 1947, and World War II still rages, fueled by the discovery of alien technology. The world's superpowers have developed unprecedented weaponry. In Dust Warfare, players assume the roles of generals, each commanding a custom-built army of squads, walkers, and heroes. Draw upon Axis might or Allied versatility as you wage ferocious battles for control of the rare ore, VK, needed to fuel the most powerful of the superpowers' weapons." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:56:37.333" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:56:37.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9144" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:45:26.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hunt down and sink the Bismarck. Three levels of play. In the advanced game, you use miniatures rules for the combat. Hidden movement by the use of separate search boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Bismarck game from AH was remarkable for one reason: the ONLY playing piece that the German player had was the Bismarck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A straight forward move-and-search naval game. If the British player finds the Bismarck, a battle ensues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is played for points. The player with the most points at the end of the game wins. The game ends when: 1) the Bismarck is sunk, 2) the Bismarck enters Bergen, St. Nazaire, or Ferrol after patrolling, 3) the German gains so many points it is impossible for the British player to win, or 4) time runs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avalon Hill Complexity ratings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Basic Game - 4&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Intermediate Game - 6&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advanced Game - 7&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T10:55:09.570" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T10:55:09.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9145" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:45:26.647" Score="0" Body="Hunt down and sink the Bismarck. Three levels of play. In the advanced game, you use miniatures rules for the combat. Hidden movement by the use of separate search boards. The game is played for points. The player with the most points at the end of the game wins. The game ends when: 1) the Bismarck is sunk, 2) the Bismarck enters Bergen, St. Nazaire, or Ferrol after patrolling, 3) the German gains too many points, or 4) time runs out." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:03:30.770" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:03:30.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9146" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:49:25.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simultaneous Ship to Ship Combat and Boarding Action simulator with light role-playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You and your friends each play the role of a crew member on a starship that faces whatever grief the referee throws at you. You'll blast enemies, pull outrageous maneuvers, unlock the secrets of alien cultures, and crank the last bit of juice out of an overtaxed engine while trying not to get yourself, your crew, or your starship blown to bits in the process.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:02:31.633" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:02:31.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9147" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:49:25.923" Score="0" Body="Simultaneous Ship to Ship Combat and Boarding Action simulator with light role-playing.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;&quot;You and your friends each play the role of a crew member on a starship that faces whatever grief the referee throws at you. You'll blast enemies, pull outrageous maneuvers, unlock the secrets of alien cultures, and crank the last bit of juice out of an overtaxed engine while trying not to get yourself, your crew, or your starship blown to bits in the process.&quot;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:27:40.780" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:27:40.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9148" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:55:29.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In his last will, your rich uncle stated that all of his millions will go to the nephew who can enjoy money the most. How to find out which nephew should be rich? You will each be given a large amount of money and whoever can spend it first will be the rightful heir. Visit the most exclusive theatres or eat in the most expensive restaurants. Buy old properties for the price of new ones and sell them as ruins. Host a huge party in your mansion or on your private boat. Spend like your life would depend on it. Spend to become rich! If you're the first to run through the money on hand, you'll receive the rest of his inheritance – oh, and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Last Will, each player starts with a certain amount of money, an individual player board, two errand boys and two cards in some combination of properties and helpers. At the start of each round, lay out cards from the appropriate decks on the offering boards; the four regular decks are properties, companions, events, helpers and expenses, with special cards forming a deck of their own. The particular mix of cards varies by round and by the number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player then chooses a plan for the round, with each plan indicating the number of cards the player draws (drawn immediately from the four regular decks in any combination), how many errand boys he can use later (one or two), the number of actions available to him that round, and his spot in the playing order that round. In the playing order for that round, players then take turns choosing an action with their errand boy(s), with those actions being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a card on display and add it to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw a card from any regular deck – This can be chosen only once by each player.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Visit the opera and spend $2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adjust the value modifiers in the property market.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Take a player board extension, thereby giving you room to play more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players then take actions in the playing order for that round, with each player having as many actions as indicated on his plan. Actions let you play one-time events (which have a cost, possibly variable); helpers and recurring expenses (which are placed on your individual player board); and properties (which cost money and may depreciate over time). You can often play companions with events or recurring expenses – of course you should bring a date to the opera or a horse on your yacht! – to increase their cost. You can also use actions to activate cards on your player board, possibly with one or more companions and always with the goal of spending money. Helpers and special cards can provide you with unique powers to further boost your profligacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of each round, you must discard down to two cards in hand, and properties that can depreciate do so; this is good as a player cannot go bankrupt if he owns properties, and the only way to get rid of properties is to sell them, which regretably puts money back in your hands unless the depreciation was intense or you manipulate the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has no money and no properties, he declares bankruptcy and the game ends at the conclusion of that round; otherwise the game ends after seven rounds. The player who has the least money (or even who is most in debt) wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:28:11.810" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:28:11.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9149" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:55:29.427" Score="0" Body="In his last will, your rich uncle stated that all of his millions will go to the nephew who can enjoy money the most. You will each be given a large amount of money and whoever can spend it first will be the rightful heir. Visit the most exclusive theatres or eat in the most expensive restaurants. Buy old properties for the price of new ones and sell them as ruins. Spend like your life would depend on it. Spend to become rich!" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:00:51.443" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:00:51.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9150" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:56:48.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Day &amp;amp; Night is a strategic board game where two players duel with asymmetric decks. The many spells and strategies make every game different than the other and exciting until the very last turn. Day &amp;amp; Night is beautifully illustrated with over 40 illustrations, specially created for this game by fantasy artist Eerin Vink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan your actions and anticipate on the actions of your opponent; combine spells, use them at the right time and make sure your pawn is located at the right place on the board. Day &amp;amp; Night is a challenge for everyone who likes strategic board games!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Home page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dn-boardgame.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dn-boardgame.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winner of the 2009 International Gamers Award in the 2-player game category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T12:03:26.887" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T12:03:26.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9151" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:56:48.347" Score="0" Body="Day &amp; Night is a strategic board game where two players duel with asymmetric decks. The many spells and strategies make every game different than the other and exciting until the very last turn. Day &amp; Night is beautifully illustrated with over 40 illustrations, specially created for this game by fantasy artist Eerin Vink." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:28:26.350" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:28:26.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9152" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:58:30.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Circus Imperium is a tongue in cheek chariot racing game loosely based on FASA's RPG Renegade Legion. Players attempt to complete three circuts while keeping their chariots and drivers in tact. The main challenge is manuvering around the bends while attempting to disable or block your opponents. The game has some brief miniature rules and provisions for all sorts of carnage. Manuvering cards also add a bit of randomness to the race. Not for the serious strategist, but all in all a nice fun diversion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:33:18.813" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:33:18.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9153" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T08:58:30.530" Score="0" Body="Circus Imperium is a tongue in cheek chariot racing game loosely based on FASA's RPG Renegade Legion. Players attempt to complete three circuts while keeping their chariots and drivers in tact. The main challenge is manuvering around the bends while attempting to disable or block your opponents. The game has some brief miniature rules and provisions for all sorts of carnage. Manuvering cards also add a bit of randomness to the race." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:28:02.107" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:28:02.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9154" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:02:48.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Kings of War' is the miniatures wargame from Mantic Games. Designed to go along with the accompanying 28mm Fantasy Ranges the game features players manoeuvring large blocks of miniature soldiers around the battlefield in search of victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Kings of War' is a new concept for mass battle miniature wargaming -- a game that is both easy to learn and fast to play! With few and simple rules, there is little to get in the way of the fun and slaughter. 'Kings of War' is a challenging game of strategy, where you can pit your wits against your opponent without devoting half of your brain power to remember a plethora of convoluted rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that’s not all, the innovative turn structure allows you to play 'Kings of War' using a time-keeping tool (like a stopwatch or a chess clock) to time your moves. As the seconds tick away, the pressure and excitement this adds makes 'Kings of War' unlike any other large-scale wargame you’ve ever played before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Units are given simple ratings such as 'Melee Attack', 'Defence' and 'Nerve' and then augmented with special abilities that characterise the different fantasy races that inhabit the world. Currently army lists are available for Elves, Dwarves and the Undead hordes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:32:27.300" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:32:27.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9155" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:02:48.637" Score="0" Body="Kings of War is a new concept for mass battle miniature wargaming from Mantic Games - a game that is easy to learn and fast to play! With few and simple rules, there is little to get in the way of the fun and slaughter. It is a challenging game of strategy, where you can pit your wits against your opponent without devoting half of your brain power to remember a plethora of convoluted rules. Designed to go along with the accompanying 28mm Fantasy Ranges." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T12:03:23.873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T12:03:23.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9156" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:07:27.273" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T09:07:27.273" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T09:07:27.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9157" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:07:27.273" Score="0" Body="Mage Wars pits powerful Mages against each other in deadly arena combat. Each Mage uses his own fully-customizable book of spells to achieve total victory over his opponent. This is a tactical board game, a combination of a card game and miniatures game, combining the best elements from each genre. New Mages will be released every few months to add new spells, powers, and variety to the game. The game is NOT collectible, but is fully customizable!" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:27:51.700" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:27:51.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9158" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:08:51.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players are trying to collect majorities in as many of the ten different commodities/glamorous chicken possessions as possible, by placing the most cards (or second most) of that card type out than anyone else. There are three scoring rounds, which are delimited by the appearance of certain cards from the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Union Pacific/Airlines enthusiasts might recognize the scoring system, as the shares aspect is very similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Published as Reibach &amp;amp; Co. in Germany 1996 and as Get the Goods in America, 1997, and again as Gloria Picktoria by Zoch in 2007 (using their Chicken theme.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:05:02.383" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:05:02.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9159" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:08:51.907" Score="0" Body="Players are trying to collect majorities in as many of the ten different commodities/glamorous chicken possessions as possible, by placing the most cards (or second most) of that card type out than anyone else. There are three scoring rounds, which are delimited by the appearance of certain cards from the draw pile." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:32:47.690" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:32:47.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9160" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:12:16.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Become the leader of an imp family that has just started a new business – breeding and selling petz. Sound simple and safe? Well, we forgot to mention that those petz are for Dungeon Lords. This means magical, playful, sometimes angry monsters that constantly desire attention and at the very moment you want them to demonstrate their qualities to buyers they are sick or they poo. Sometimes you are even glad that you got rid of them – but the profit is unbelievable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dungeon Petz is a standalone game set in the Dungeon Lords universe created in the board game of the same name. The game consists of several rounds in which players use unusual worker placement mechanisms (players simultaneously prepare different sized groups of imps in order to play sooner than others) to prepare themselves for the uneasy task of raising creature cubs and pleasing their different needs represented by cards in order to sell them as grown scary creatures to Dungeon Lords. In the meantime they also attend various contests in which they show off their pets, scoring additional points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:27:07.130" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:27:07.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9161" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T09:12:16.940" Score="0" Body="Dungeon Petz is a standalone game set in the Dungeon Lords universe. The game consists of several rounds in which players use unusual worker placement mechanisms to prepare themselves for an uneasy task of raising creature cubs and pleasing their different needs represented by cards in order to sell them as grown scary creatures to Dungeon Lords. In the meantime they also attend various contests in which they show off their pets, scoring additional points." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:28:18.707" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:28:18.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9162" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:39:51.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Game description from the publisher:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cuba prior to the revolution: Under turbulent circumstances, the villages of the island strive for independent wealth and influence. Who can buy and sell his products and goods on the domestic market profitably or take in the most on the trading ships? Who can send the right delegate to parliament in order to influence the government legislative process, or erect distilleries, hotels and banks at the right moment to the benefit of his village?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whoever has accumulated the most victory points in Cuba by the end of the game wins. Players earn victory points by shipping merchandise from the harbor, but also by erecting and using buildings, and by abiding by the law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:34:10.153" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:34:10.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9163" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:39:51.800" Score="0" Body="Cuba prior to the revolution: Under turbulent circumstances, the villages of the island strive for independent wealth and influence. Who can buy and sell his products and goods on the domestic market profitably or take in the most on the trading ships? Who can send the right delegate to parliament in order to influence the government legislative process, or erect distilleries, hotels and banks at the right moment to the benefit of his village?" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:33:26.253" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:33:26.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9164" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:42:00.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your goal in Brass is to build cotton mills, coal mines, iron works, canals, railways, ports, and shipyards, and to have them be used so that they score points. Your choices will be limited by the cards you draw, but not as much as by the plans you make. Lots of interesting detail in the historical Lancashire setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game designed by Martin Wallace, published in 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3-4 players, playing time ~120 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:32:34.367" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:32:34.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9165" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:42:00.470" Score="0" Body="Your goal in Brass is to build cotton mills, coal mines, iron works, canals, railways, ports, and shipyards, and to have them be used so that they score points. Your choices will be limited by the cards you draw, but not as much as by the plans you make. Lots of interesting detail in the historical Lancashire setting." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T10:10:02.283" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T10:10:02.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9166" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:45:34.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alexandros is a board game for 2-4 players designed by Leo Colovini and published in 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alexander and his army passed throughout the entire Orient until he came to Persia, conquering wide areas. In order to pacify the occupied areas, as well as to keep his generals in good spirits, he placed them as governors of the new provinces. They are tasked to build the provincial administration there and collect taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone would like to conquer as many paying provinces as possible for himself, of course. Because only then can he be seen by Alexander in the correct light with high tax revenues and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awarded title of &quot;Best Family Strategy Game&quot; by Games Magazine in 2005.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:33:59.123" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:33:59.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9167" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:45:34.863" Score="0" Body="Alexandros is a board game for 2-4 players designed by Leo Colovini and published in 2003. Alexander and his army passed throughout the entire Orient until he came to Persia, conquering wide areas. In order to pacify the occupied areas, as well as to keep his generals in good spirits, he placed them as governors of the new provinces. They are tasked to build the provincial administration there and collect taxes." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:32:39.953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:32:39.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9168" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:48:38.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avalon Game Company was the genesis of Avalon Hill and the publisher of the first Charles S. Roberts wargame Tactics. Hasbro also marketed games under the label of Avalon Hill (Hasbro) after they purchased the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:33:49.017" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:33:49.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9169" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:48:38.260" Score="0" Body="Avalon Game Company was the genesis of Avalon Hill and the publisher of the first Charles S. Roberts wargame Tactics. Hasbro also marketed games under the label of Avalon Hill (Hasbro) after they purchased the name." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T10:10:05.793" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T10:10:05.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9170" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:52:55.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the table-top wargame &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/warhammer-40k&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'warhammer-40k'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;warhammer-40k&lt;/a&gt;, the Necrons are a mysterious skeletal robot-like race that have lain dormant and largely unknown by the other races of the universe for sixty four million years, and are reemerging in the distant future of the Warhammer 40,000 universe. Within the game's universe, the Necrons have become known and feared for their ability to absorb physical damage and repair themselves, as well as their enigmatic, yet powerful, Gauss weapons and arcane technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Necrons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia entry on Necrons&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:33:40.530" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:33:40.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9171" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:52:55.800" Score="0" Body="In the Warhammer 40k, the Necrons are a mysterious skeletal robot-like race that have lain dormant and largely unknown by the other races of the universe for sixty four million years, and are reemerging in the distant future of the game's universe. Within this universe, the Necrons have become known and feared for their ability to absorb physical damage and repair themselves, as well as their enigmatic, yet powerful, Gauss weapons and arcane technology." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:32:04.807" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:32:04.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9172" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:56:05.280" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-07T14:56:05.280" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T14:56:05.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9173" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T14:56:05.280" Score="0" Body="Principato is a tactical game for 2-4 players from Finnish designer Touko Tahkokallio. At the beginning of the game, each player receives a small, unprotected principality. Over three epochs the various principalities can be developed. A steady production of money and food is needed to expand the principality and to maintain an army of mercenaries. During the game there are several cultural and military valuations that give the players victory points." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:33:00.763" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:33:00.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9174" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:02:33.080" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Game theory is a study of strategic decision making. More formally, it is &lt;em&gt;the study of mathematical models of conflict and cooperation between intelligent rational decision-makers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;N.B.&lt;/strong&gt; Combinatorial-game-theory (&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/combinatorial-games&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;combinatorial-games&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;combinatorial-games&lt;/a&gt;) is distinct, being concerned with finite games of skill with no chance and full information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;See Wikipedia entry about Game Theory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-15T20:08:40.300" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T20:08:40.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9175" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:02:33.080" Score="0" Body="Game theory is a study of strategic decision making. More formally, it is &quot;the study of mathematical models of conflict and cooperation between intelligent rational decision-makers.&quot; (It is distinct from combinatorial game theory, which has its own tag.)" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-15T20:08:25.097" LastActivityDate="2018-12-15T20:08:25.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9176" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:16:56.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On May 16th, 1703, Czar Peter laid the cornerstone for the first building in Saint Petersburg. Quickly, glorious buildings were added, always being expanded, so that Nobility (bringing victory points) may want to move in. But to accomplish this, one needs merchants who can bankroll the necessary Rubles, or the glory is over. The competition isn't sleeping either, and can sometimes steal a desired card right out from under your nose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saint Petersburg has a board to tally victory points and to set out the four types of cards. It is the cards themselves that players need to collect. In each round – with the number of rounds dependent on the number of players and the randomness of card availability – players first pay for CRAFTSMEN who supply money for further purchases; then BUILDINGS to score points; then ARISTOCRATS, who are needed for money, points, and end-of-game scoring; and finally, unique cards from all three categories which give greater benefits. During the first rounds, players never have enough money to buy every card they want. During later rounds, they have plenty of money, but the cards they'd like to buy may have already come and gone...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T06:38:45.770" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T06:38:45.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9177" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:16:56.860" Score="0" Body="Saint Petersburg is a board game for 2-4 players, designed by Bernd Brunnhofer. Players need to collect cards: first Craftsmen who supply money for further purchases; then Buildings to score points; then Aristocrats, who are needed for money, points and end-of-game scoring. " OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T00:02:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T00:02:50.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9178" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:37:56.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is each player has his or her own map of the area (in this case the Midway Island) behind a screen. Each player &quot;searches&quot; for the enemy fleet by flying search planes to the various zones on the map and calling the zone coordinates. Once found, bombers can be sent in to sink the enemy fleet. The actual attack is fought on a separate battle board where the ships are first placed on a rectangular grid and the attacking planes are placed in adjacent rectangles or on top of the ships themselves to indicate which ship they are attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic game is very simple. But there are a number of additional rules, which add realism and complexity: CAP fighters, surface actions, bases, inaccurate search reports, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is superior with a neutral referee for true double blind play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avalon Hill Complexity Rating: 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T08:32:15.710" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T08:32:15.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9179" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-07T15:37:56.240" Score="0" Body="Midway is a game for 2 players published by Avalon Hill. Each player has his own map of the area behind a screen and &quot;searches&quot; for the enemy fleet by flying search planes to the various zones on the map and calling the zone coordinates. Once found, bombers can be sent in to sink the enemy fleet. The actual attack is fought on a separate battle board. The basic game is simple, but there are a number of additional rules, which add realism and complexity." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T02:08:05.563" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T02:08:05.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9181" CreationDate="2012-11-07T18:56:34.617" Score="5" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a regeneration shield or a totem armor aura protect a Legendary creature from getting killed by a clone of itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T12:09:24.280" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T12:09:24.280" Title="Do Regenerate and/or Totem Armor counteract the Legend rule?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-legendary-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9180" CreationDate="2012-11-07T19:01:39.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope. Regeneration and Totem Armor replace the &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; action, and the Legend Rule does not destroy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5k If two or more legendary permanents with the same name are on the battlefield, all are &lt;strong&gt;put into their owners’ graveyards&lt;/strong&gt;. This is called the “legend rule.” If only one of those permanents is legendary, this rule doesn’t apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.12a If the effect of a resolving spell or ability regenerates a permanent, it creates a replacement effect that protects the permanent the next time it would be destroyed this turn. In this case, “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] &lt;strong&gt;would be destroyed&lt;/strong&gt; this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.87a Totem armor is a static ability that appears on some Auras. “Totem armor” means “If enchanted permanent &lt;strong&gt;would be destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;, instead remove all damage marked on it and destroy this Aura.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.6b The only ways a permanent can be destroyed are as a result of an effect that uses the word “destroy” or as a result of the state-based actions that check for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g) or damage from a source with deathtouch (see rule 704.5h). &lt;strong&gt;If a permanent is put into its owner’s graveyard for any other reason, it hasn’t been “destroyed.”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T19:07:18.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2012-11-07T22:49:02.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question isn't completely clear. Once a word has been played. the bonus can't be used again in a later turn, for whatever reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, you play a letter that makes one word across and another word down (usually filling in a block of four), then you score both words; if the letter is on a bonus square, presumably you count the bonus twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-11-07T22:49:02.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4424" CreationDate="2012-11-08T02:31:56.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another reason not to chase the low is that there's no guarantee on the low whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you've got, for instance, A2JQ double-suited - by no means a great hand - but one that you might limp in with. Now, the flop comes 47K rainbow. You might think you're still fine here, because you can always chase the low - but look at what your odds are: you have to not only dodge two straight high cards, you &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; have to dodge the A, 2, 4 and 7 because any of those hitting is a blank for you too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only 16 cards out of 45 that help you, so the odds you miss your low altogether are (29/45)*(28/44) = 812/1980 = 40% - and even if you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; hit, as Chris Persichetti notes in a comment you may still be quartered (since many people will play any A2 too far, and a hand like A3 may still counterfeit and quarter you if you get 23 on the turn and river).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's not to say that it's never correct to chase - but your pot odds for low are almost always worse than you expect, and there are virtually no implied odds unless you've got multiple people chasing a high; chasing your low heads-up just to chop is usually throwing bad money after questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T17:23:50.363" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T17:23:50.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9184" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T12:49:51.503" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T12:49:51.503" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T12:49:51.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9185" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T12:49:51.503" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game of fire rescue." OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T13:43:02.410" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T13:43:02.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9186" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T12:55:54.287" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T12:55:54.287" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T12:55:54.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9187" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T12:55:54.287" Score="0" Body="Rex: Final Days of an Empire, set in Fantasy Flight's Twilight Imperium universe, is a board game of negotiation, betrayal, and warfare. Players control interstellar civilizations, competing for dominance of the galaxy's crumbling imperial city. Rex presents players with asymmetrical racial abilities and opportunities for diplomacy, deception, and tactical mastery." OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T13:43:12.113" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T13:43:12.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9188" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:12:00.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ascension is a fast paced deckbuilding game designed by Magic Pro Tour champions Justin Gary, Rob Dougherty, and Brian Kibler, with artwork by Eric Sabee. Ascension is a deck-building game where players spend Runes to acquire more powerful cards for their deck. It offers a dynamic play experience where players have to react and adjust their strategy accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gameplay is similar to other deckbuilding games, with the player adding cards to their deck by purchasing them from a central deck, which has the top six cards revealed and available for purchase. When cards are removed, they are replaced with a new one from the top of the deck. Victory points are earned in three ways: firstly, each card purchased is worth one or more victory points; second, victory points can be gained by defeating monsters with a power resource featured on several of the cards; finally, some cards give victory points directly each time they are played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T15:10:56.347" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:10:56.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9189" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:12:00.517" Score="0" Body="Ascension is a fast paced deckbuilding game designed by Magic Pro Tour champions Justin Gary, Rob Dougherty, and Brian Kibler, with artwork by Eric Sabee. Ascension is a deck-building game where players spend Runes to acquire more powerful cards for their deck. It offers a dynamic play experience where players have to react and adjust their strategy accordingly." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T15:11:03.587" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:11:03.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9190" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:14:07.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Claustrophobia is an adventure game set within the universe of Hell Dorado.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows two players to recreate the battles taking place in the underground tunnels below New Jerusalem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One player controls a group of determined Humans, while the other plays an almost unending army of demonic creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two players. Playtime ~45 minutes.&#xA;Designed by Croc, published in 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T15:11:21.370" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:11:21.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9191" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:14:07.817" Score="0" Body="Claustrophobia is an adventure game set within the universe of Hell Dorado. It allows two players to recreate the battles taking place in the underground tunnels below New Jerusalem. One player controls a group of determined Humans, while the other plays an almost unending army of demonic creatures." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T15:11:18.047" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:11:18.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9192" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:20:32.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Netrunner is a cyberpunk-themed collectible card game. The two players are the Corp (who wins by completing Agendas) and the Runner (who wins by infiltrating the Corp and liberating Agendas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each side has a limited number of both actions and bits (money) to spend per turn; bits are gone once used, and actions must be spent to gain more.&#xA;An important thing when evaluating the power of cards is to see the Bit per action ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One unique feature of this game is that the Runner physically moves on the &quot;board&quot; created by facedown Corp cards. It has the feel of a &quot;capture the flag&quot; game, with the Runner moving in dataforts to steal Agendas from the Corp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another unique feature is that the Cards are NOT the primary strategy of the game; in fact, players can win by simply &quot;playing with the rules&quot; itself (a concept difficult to understand if you've never played Netrunner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players play as both Corp and Runner in a game, one after the other, with each player's Runner going against the opponent's Corp. A winning match provides 10 points and the loser scores points equal to the number of agenda points scored/liberated. The winner of the game is the one who has the most points in the 2 submatches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though Netrunner is traditionally a two-player duel, there are formats that allow for more players (called &quot;The Big Sell Out&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Richard Garfield himself considered Netrunner as his best boardgame design instead of CCG design game, and he loves games that include bluffing mechanics; with Netrunner, bluffing is an integral part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it was released in 1996, many gaming magazines gave Netrunner critical acclaim as the best CCG ever designed. Even today, most of them still consider this to be true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2012 Fantasy Flight Games released a revamped version of Netrunner, set in the Android universe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-29T13:09:53.960" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T13:09:53.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9193" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:20:32.777" Score="0" Body="Netrunner is a cyberpunk-themed collectible card game. The two players are the Corp (who wins by completing Agendas) and the Runner (who wins by infiltrating the Corp and liberating Agendas). When the game was released in 1996, many gaming magazines gave Netrunner critical acclaim as the best CCG ever designed. Even today, most of them still consider this to be true." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:22:36.237" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:22:36.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9194" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:20:38.087" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T14:20:38.087" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T14:20:38.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9195" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:20:38.087" Score="0" Body="Penny Arcade: Gamers vs Evil is a deck-building game full of recognisable characters from the Penny Arcade universe. On your turn you will play cards that give you money or power, and then buy cards with those two resources, improving your deck. As your deck improves, you'll be able to defeat and buy the difficult boss cards." OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T17:42:54.390" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T17:42:54.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9196" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:23:55.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand and Foot is a predominately a North American standard deck playing card game with many variations. It is a set building game, normally played with four people in two teams. It typically uses four or five regular poker decks including the jokers. Each player starts with two piles of eleven cards. One pile is their hand, the other, their foot. The players draw two cards a turn, playing some if they choose and then discarding one at the end of each of their turns, except if they want to go out, when they will have to play every card. Once a player has played all the cards in their hand they will pick up their foot. Sets are comprised of 7 cards of the same number. Sets may have wild cards in them, jokers and twos, but then the set is no longer clean, it would then be considered dirty. A team needs two clean sets and two or three dirty sets to go out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand and Foot is also commonly known as clean and dirty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:32:56.350" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:32:56.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9197" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:23:55.247" Score="0" Body="Hand and Foot is a predominately a North American standard deck playing card game with many variations. It is a set building game, normally played with four people in two teams. It typically uses four or five regular poker decks including the jokers. Each player starts with two piles of eleven cards. One pile is their hand, the other, their foot. Once a player has played all the cards in their hand they will pick up their foot." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:22:30.793" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:22:30.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9198" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:28:29.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get rid of the rats and go for the cats! In Rat-a-Tat Cat, less is always better, and you want to go out with the lowest score. Can you remember the numbers on the other players' cards? Can you keep a poker face, but notice when another player looks pleased? Sharpen your memory and your timing, and have fun with the cool cats and bad rats of Rat-a-Tat Cat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1996 Mensa Select&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game for 2-6 players, playtime ~10 minutes.&#xA;Published in 1995, republished 2002 by Amigo as Biberbande.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:32:38.643" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:32:38.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9199" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:28:29.763" Score="0" Body="Get rid of the rats and go for the cats! In Rat-a-Tat Cat, less is always better, and you want to go out with the lowest score. Can you remember the numbers on the other players' cards? Can you keep a poker face, but notice when another player looks pleased? Sharpen your memory and your timing, and have fun with the cool cats and bad rats of Rat-a-Tat Cat." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:32:41.247" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:32:41.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9200" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:32:28.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flash Duel is a simple, fast card game that simulates a duel between two Fantasy Strike characters. There are 10 characters to choose from (all included), each with three different special abilities. Landing just one hit wins a round, and a game is best three out of five rounds. Games take only a few minutes to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The duel takes place along an 18-space linear track. Players draw from a common deck of 25 of numbered cards (five copies of each number 1 through 5), and use these cards to move, attack, dashing strike, block, and push. Each character's special ability cards add a new dimension to the base gameplay, and create 45 different character matchups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flash Duel was designed and balanced by David Sirlin, the multiplayer balancer of Street Fighter HD Remix, Puzzle Fighter HD Remix, Kongai, Yomi, and Puzzle Strike. The core gameplay was inspired by Reiner Knizia's game En Garde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game has received a follow-up in Flash Duel: Second Edition, which adds 10 new characters, slight balance changes to the original characters, support for up to 5 players, and new gameplay modes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:33:12.293" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:33:12.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9201" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:32:28.187" Score="0" Body="Flash Duel is a simple, fast card game that simulates a duel between two Fantasy Strike characters. There are 10 characters to choose from (all included), each with three different special abilities. Landing just one hit wins a round, and a game is best three out of five rounds. Games take only a few minutes to play." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:32:43.900" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:32:43.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9202" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:35:53.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saboteur 2 is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/saboteur&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'saboteur'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;saboteur&lt;/a&gt; by Frederic Moyersoen, which first appeared in 2004 from Amigo Spiel. The Gigamic edition of Saboteur 2 contains the base game. All other editions are expansion only and thus require a copy of Saboteur to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player takes on the role of a gold-digging dwarf or a saboteur who wants to hinder exploration of the gold mines -- but each player knows only his own role, so the digging may or may not go as planned!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each turn, a player lays down a tunnel card to dig from the start card toward one of the goal cards (or potentially away, if a saboteur) or plays an action card to help or hinder someone. If the diggers manage to find the gold hidden under one of the goal cards, then the diggers share the loot found there; if the gold can't be reached, the saboteurs profit instead. After three rounds, the player with the most gold wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/saboteur&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'saboteur'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;saboteur&lt;/a&gt; allowed 3-10 players, while Saboteur 2 handles 2-12 players. Saboteur 2 includes the original game (not included in the Zman US/English edition), along with additional role cards (the boss, profiteers, geologists), new action cards (steal gold, change your role), and new tunnel cards featuring doors, ladders and bridges. What's more, the gold seekers can now be divided into teams -- blue vs. green -- and only those on the team that finds the gold score anything, assuming they do of course...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:33:07.550" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:33:07.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9203" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:35:53.823" Score="0" Body="Saboteur 2 is an expansion for Saboteur by Frederic Moyersoen, which first appeared in 2004 from Amigo Spiel. Each player takes on the role of a gold-digging dwarf or a saboteur who wants to hinder exploration of the gold mines -- but each player knows only his own role, so the digging may or may not go as planned! The original Saboteur allowed 3-10 players, while Saboteur 2 handles 2-12 players. " OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T17:43:14.327" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T17:43:14.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9204" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:38:42.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warmachine, steam-powered miniatures combat, is a table-top miniatures game published by Privateer Press. Players take on the role of an elite soldier-sorcerer known as a warcaster. While a warcaster and his army is a formidable force on the battlefield, a warcaster's true strength is in their ability to magically control and coordinate the actions of their mighty warjacks steam-powered combat automatons that represent the pinnacle of military might in the Iron Kingdoms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:32:48.207" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:32:48.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9205" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-08T14:38:42.537" Score="0" Body="Warmachine is a table-top miniatures game published by Privateer Press. Players take on the role of an elite soldier-sorcerer known as a warcaster. While a warcaster and his army is a formidable force on the battlefield, a warcaster's true strength is in their ability to magically control and coordinate the actions of their mighty warjacks steam-powered combat automatons that represent the pinnacle of military might in the Iron Kingdoms." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T16:33:16.020" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T16:33:16.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7275" CreationDate="2012-11-08T15:12:34.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110139/flash-point-fire-rescue-urban-structures&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urban Structures&lt;/a&gt; expansion contains a role that allows you to remove hotspots:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VyI0a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Structural Engineer Role Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2412" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T15:12:34.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="793" CreationDate="2012-11-08T17:13:45.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's an easier solution available for those who don't want to invest in new cards or sleeves which might not even match in size:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- When cards get sticky, put them in a plastic bag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Add some baby powder to the plastic bag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Shake vigorously for 5-10 minutes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- The baby powder (be sure to use the kind made from only the highest quality babies!) will absorb the moisture and oil that has built up on the cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Remove cards from bag, wipe individually with a cloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that should fix ya!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T17:13:45.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-08T17:26:11.697" Score="4" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if someone attacks with a 3/3 creature, and you have a 5/5 creature that will ultimately block and destroy his creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they boosts their creature with a +3/+3 spell, can you counter the spell?&#xA;If they boost their creature with an equipment card, during his combat attack phase, can you counter that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What, if anything, does this have to do with the &quot;Stack&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3483" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T03:16:30.610" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T02:23:10.780" Title="Is it possible to counter cards that boost a creatures power during the combat phase?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9208" CreationDate="2012-11-08T17:46:34.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;using the term 'equipment card' in your question is confusing. Is your opponent using an instant/sorcery spell to provide the +3/+3 or an actual equipment artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this confusion, I will answer this question as if your opponent boosted his creature before attacking. (same stack rules will apply, but in almost all cases your opponent will not be able to play socercys or use equipt abilities [other abilities that boost power and toughness are still available])&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent is casting an instant/sorcery spell to provide the +3/+3 the answer is YES, you can play a counterspell and then block and destroy his creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent is boosting his creature by use the 'equipt' ability of an artifact he controls (or any ability on a permanent), NO, you cannot play a counterspell. You can however play a different spell that would destroy or remove the artifact from his creature and then block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T18:58:40.140" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T18:58:40.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9102" CreationDate="2012-11-08T17:49:38.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can avoid taking a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state you have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Robber to any &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; hex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take 1 resource card at random from a player who has a city or settlement adjacent to that hex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not specify that that player cannot be you! This means if you really don't want a card you can place the robber either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a hex with no players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a hex where at least one player has no cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On a hex where you have a settlement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would only be in your interests if you were playing a soldier card before rolling the dice, and the currently robbered hex offered you a greater chance of winning this turn than rolling any other number and taking a random card from another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2012-11-09T11:54:13.157" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T11:54:13.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9208" CreationDate="2012-11-08T19:41:50.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what he's doing, and what you have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Avenger&quot;&gt;Serra Avenger&lt;/a&gt;, which is a 3/3, and he attempts to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;, giving the avenger +3/+3 until end of turn, then you can counter that with a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; or by activating the ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Judge%27s%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Judge&amp;#39;s Familiar&lt;/a&gt; (assuming he can't or chooses not to pay the cost associated with the familiar). Otherwise, the aveneger, now a 6/6, will swallow a 5/5 in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that he can cast the Giant Growth during his attackers step, or during your blockers step (after you've declared blockers). Consider the following scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Him: delcare attacks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Him: declare Aveneger as attacker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You: block with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thundermaw%20Hellkite&quot;&gt;Thundermaw Hellkite&lt;/a&gt;, a 5/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Him: cast Giant Growth on Avenenger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Aveneger, 6/6 lives, has 5 damage on it, and Hellkite is dead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that this is not equipment, but an instant speed spell. Equipment plays by different rules: here's how those scenarios might play out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Manaforce%20Mace&quot;&gt;Manaforce Mace&lt;/a&gt; then he can't equip that during his combat phase, because he can only attach it at sorcery speed. But if you had three basic land types, then you'd have +3/+3 allowing you to take out the Hellkite in the above scenario. Note that this wouldn't really be a surprise like the Giant Growth would be, because you'd have to do this during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Plating&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt; then he could equip that during his combat phase with the activated ability. You can counter this only if you have something that allows you to counter abilities (not spells), for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be something that allows equipment at instant speed, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brass%20Squire&quot;&gt;Brass Squire&lt;/a&gt;. You could do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Him: delcare attacks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Him: declare Aveneger as attacker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You: block with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thundermaw%20Hellkite&quot;&gt;Thundermaw Hellkite&lt;/a&gt;, a 5/5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Him: tap Brass Squire, attaching Manaforce Mace (which was already on the field, not from your hand, and assuming you have 3 basic land types) to Avenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Aveneger, 6/6 lives, has 5 damage on it, and Hellkite is dead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-11-08T19:50:45.467" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T19:50:45.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4583" CreationDate="2012-11-08T22:04:46.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately Vassal mods are very easy to modify :)&#xA;just unrar that sucker and change all the pictures with photoshop that don't have text on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Started working on that myself last night. Then I quit after my... tenth? card... or 8th. I might finish that sometime but it would only be for personal use as I just don't want to drag out the box when I try to play on the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory I suppose one could use the vassal mod for playing without having the boardgame. but it IS a ton of work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3489" LastActivityDate="2012-11-08T22:04:46.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-09T03:13:21.007" Score="13" ViewCount="2750" Body="&lt;p&gt;This really isn't a problem in a tournament setting, because players are expected to know the rules, and will usually ask their opponent if they wish to take any actions before allowing a spell to resolve. In a casual setting though, and especially in Multiplayer, where players may not be paying that much attention to what might be happening on the other side of the board, how do you handle a player who casts a string of non-instant spells without giving anyone the time/chance to counter each spell in the string?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time is usually at a premium in MP, so I doubt that most players ask each player in turn if they have a response. (with the possible exception of the resolution of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Browbeat&quot;&gt;Browbeat&lt;/a&gt;, where it is optimal to see if any player will bite the bullet and take the damage). In your multiplayer magic games, do you only ask if an opponent is playing Blue with 2-3 Mana available? Do you pause for a short time time after each spell? Do you allow opponents to backup and counter the first spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to handle counterspells in multiplayer to minimize time, and not make counters too powerful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:37:24.303" Title="How do you handle fast players in a casual setting that skip priority?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1473" CreationDate="2012-11-09T05:49:03.507" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to say, as a mathematician who has studied Game Theory for several years, that you DO NOT need perfect information to have an optimal strategy.  In fact, Game Theory has a very rich body of results about games of imperfect information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a common misconception.  Here's another one: an optimal strategy means you win every time.  This is also not true.  An optimal strategy is one that maximizes your expected payoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that that's out of the way, I want to commend the questioner on a great question.  I was actually just googling this question myself, trying to see if any journal articles have been written about it (I was thinking about doing a game-theoretic analysis of Hearts for a thesis paper).  I haven't found anything yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like most nontrivial games, Hearts has a HUMONGOUS game tree.  There are 52!/(13!^4) hands that could be dealt (each of the 4 players gets 13 cards).  That's just how many nodes there are at the second level of the game tree.  Each of those nodes has a huge number of branches (the number of branches at each of those nodes is the number of ways four players can choose three cards from 13).  Then each of those have yet more branhces, and so on.  Even a rough calculation shows that there are far more nodes in the game tree than there are atoms in the known universe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So using Zermelo's algorithm to &quot;solve&quot; hearts (though theoretically possible) is - in practice - not possible.  So much more sophisticated techniques must be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to write a computer program to play near-optimal Hearts, I would suggest using random samples and Markov-type simulations to estimate optimal moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, yes, optimal play does exist.  But it could be very hard to find without some pretty slick game-theoretical analysis and/or a lot of computational power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps.  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3491" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-02-04T09:05:04.397" LastActivityDate="2020-02-04T09:05:04.397" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9213" CreationDate="2012-11-09T06:03:33.930" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the rules, you allow opponents to backup and counter the first spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTG is not a real-time game, it's a turn-based game. In other words, it's not a game of chicken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTG would be extremely tedious if you had to explicitly pass priority every time. That why people use &lt;em&gt;shortcuts&lt;/em&gt;. If you say &quot;I cast Foo and Bar&quot;, you are actually proposing the following a shortcut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast Foo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast Bar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other player(s) may accept the shortcut entirely, or they may accept the shortcut only until a point of their choosing. Accepting part of the shortcut could be done, for example, by saying &quot;In response to Foo, I cast Baz.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shortcut is accepted, the person who proposed it must abide by it. (He must cast Foo and Bar.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the shortcut is accepted to a point, the person who proposed it must abide by it up to that point. (He must cast Foo.) He can deviate as he wishes past that point. (He need not cast Bar, though he obviously can if he wants to do so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer, by the rules, is the last option you presented: You allow opponents to backup and counter the first spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be sure Foo isn't going to be countered before announcing you're casting Bar, you have to make sure noone wants to do anything in response to Foo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T06:03:33.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9208" CreationDate="2012-11-09T06:27:47.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I answer, I'm not sure that you understand what a spell is, so I'm going to cover that first. My apologies if you know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spell is a card on a stack, which is to say a card that has been cast but hasn't yet resolved, hasn't been countered and hasn't otherwise left the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;, it is a spell from the time you take it out of your hand until it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;, it is a spell from the time you take it out of your hand until it resolves to give a +3/+3 bonus to a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A continuous effect is not a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. The +3/+3 granted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; is not a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards on the battlefield are not spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. An artifact attached to a creature is not spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now on to the questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they boosts their creature with a +3/+3 spell, can you counter the spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the spell you used to counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they boost their creature with an equipment card, during his combat attack phase, can you counter that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are casting an Equipment spell, you can counter that. They wouldn't normally be allowed to do cast an Equipment spell in the Combat Phase, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are using the Equip ability Equipment, you can counter that, there are a very few cards (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;) that can do it. They wouldn't normally be allowed to use Equip in the Combat Phase, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are attaching the Equipment using an ability other than Equip (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brass%20Squire&quot;&gt;Brass Squire&lt;/a&gt;'s), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; would do the trick again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you can't counter permanents (objects on the battlefield) and the effects of their static abilities (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bladed%20Bracers&quot;&gt;Bladed Bracers&lt;/a&gt;'s +1/+1), just abilities on the stack and spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T02:23:10.780" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T02:23:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9213" CreationDate="2012-11-09T16:01:51.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone did this in a tournament setting, they would be in violation of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Game Rule Violation&lt;/a&gt; (specifically, 307.1. &lt;code&gt;A player who has priority may cast a sorcery card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty&lt;/code&gt;, and technically stack is not empty until all players have passed priority.) , and the remedy is to simply back up the game to the point where the infraction occured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the error was discovered within a time frame in which a player could reasonably be expected to notice the error &#xA;  and the situation is simple enough to safely back up without too much disruption to the course of the game, the &#xA;  judge may get permission from the Head Judge to back up the game to the point of the error. Each action taken is &#xA;  undone until the game reaches the point immediately prior to the error. Cards incorrectly placed in hand are returned &#xA;  to the location in the zone from which they were moved (if the identity of the incorrectly drawn card is not known to &#xA;  all players, a random card is returned instead). Once the game is backed up, it continues from that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more casual setting, while there is no official rule (it is, of course, casual) this is usually the best course of action to take. The first sorcery the player played is the one you keep, the rest go back to his hand, any cards that changed zones as a result of the errant cards go back to where they came from, etcetera. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if players aren't paying attention, then too bad so sad. What I typically do in this scenario is I give 2 or 3 seconds to see if anyone responds. That's long enough for it to sink in. If someone is legitimately distracted (hey, I get texts from the wife a lot while I'm at magic, too!) -and- there's a high likelihood they're going to want to respond to it (I'm Doom Blading their fatty or something) I usually take a small effort to point it out to them. If it happened over, and over, and over again, I wouldn't continue to give that extra effort. I would simply give the standard couple seconds, look for a couple nods, and continue on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I've played hundreds of multiplayer games, and I've never had a player who chained their sorceries more than once. I (or another experienced player) just tells then 'When you play a spell, check for a response'. (Even though they don't have to check for a response for chaining instants, as they continue to have priority, it is good to pass priority between them to limit your opponents' options to counter you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T16:01:51.070" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2012-11-09T18:27:35.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Utilities are worth buying, especially early in the game (before the house building phase starts. Their main drawback is that unlike the color groups, they can't be upgraded further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider Electric Co., which sells for $150, and is sitting between St. Charles Place (cost:$140) and Virginia Ave. (cost: $160). But the average rent on Electric is $28 (4 x 7, the average die roll), versus $10 for St. Charles and $12 for Virginia. Only if the purchase of one or the other maroon completes the monopoly is Electric Co. worth less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, the two utilities together cost $300, but an average rent of $70 (10x 7, the average die roll). That's more than the $50 you can collect on Boardwalk, which costs $400.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two utilities are even worth more than two railroads ($50 rent at a cost of $400). It's the third, and particularly the fourth railroad that really adds value to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-09T18:27:35.560" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9213" CreationDate="2012-11-09T20:48:13.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say &quot;No, you don't.&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether he realizes it or not, any time a player says he is doing two things in succession without giving me a chance to respond, he is proposing a shortcut per rule 719, which must be unanimous per 719.2.  This applies when he says he casts two Sorceries, when he says &quot;I attack with the Angel.&quot; without first saying &quot;I'm going to attack.&quot;, or when he assumes that an ability resolves.  In fact, it happens constantly, and so long as everyone understands that their proposed shortcuts are subject to review, it works out fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the thing you're supposed to do according to the rules is to back up to the point at which people disagree about what should happen next.  If he announces two Sorceries and you want to counter the first one, he takes the second back to his hand and untaps any mana he tapped for it (because it is reasonable to assume he tapped between spells rather than all at once), and the stack is rewound to the point where it had only his first spell on it and it is the interrupting player's priority.[1]  Note that the player casting the Sorceries does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; get the stack rewound to a point where he had priority.  By proposing that he cast two Sorceries in succession, he ceded priority after casting the first one.  He does not get to change that decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is slightly disadvantageous to announce &quot;I attack with the Angel.&quot;, because one's opponent is justified in responding with &quot;Actually, before you declare your attackers I twiddle your Angel.&quot;, possibly using the information revealed in the proposed shortcut.  If he wants to keep his intentions private, a player needs to specify a shortcut that allows this.  If he instead says &quot;I'm going to declare attackers.&quot; and gives his opponent a chance to respond before following up with &quot;I'm attacking with the Angel.&quot;, he denies his opponent this slight advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1]:  Technically, what the interrupting player is saying is &quot;I agree with your proposed shortcut, except that I want to change what happens after you pass priority after you cast that first spell.&quot;  Because this new shortcut is the shortest sequence of events proposed, it is what happens.  Crucially, no one gets to change their proposed shortcut, though they are not held to their announced intentions once the sequence executes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3423" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T14:37:24.303" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:37:24.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1719" CreationDate="2012-11-10T00:19:49.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play Hearts now on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamearena.com/#!gamepanel?game=hearts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Arena&lt;/a&gt;. There are also many other board and card games available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know why I recommend BGA, please have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8778/2500&quot;&gt;my post on another question here&lt;/a&gt;. There are many reasons to join BGA community, mostly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Many great games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Technology - web based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Both live &amp;amp; asynchronous play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Table system&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Community&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reputation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Feedback&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ease of use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T00:19:49.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5941" CreationDate="2012-11-10T00:36:57.933" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are summaries of five of the Alhambra expansions with links to detailed video reviews by Tom Vasel. He gives opinions on which ones are the best and which ones are not worth it. I've included some highlights from each video. I recommend watching and deciding for yourself. All quotes are from Tom Vasel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 1 &quot;The Vizier's Favor&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C5eCa7hpeW4&quot;&gt;Alhambra Expansion 1 Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/9687/alhambra-the-viziers-favor&quot;&gt;On BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; rating as of 2012-11-09: &lt;em&gt;6.09/10&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Expansion one is my least favorite of the five expansions  … if I was buying the expansions separately I think I would skip … as part of the Big Box, fine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Vizier's Favor&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; allows players to buy a token out of turn once with exact change. May refresh the ability at the cost of all their actions on a future turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ok … would use occasionally, but not one that I would get too attached to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Currency Exchange&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; cards are shuffled into deck, can be taken instead of a currency card. Can be used to allow use of currency of one color for a different color as shown on card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I like this module … best module from the first expansion … a lot of fun … would play with these much of the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Bonus Cards&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; cards that show specific buildings are dealt secretly to each player at beginning of game. During scoring if you have built the building shown on your card you may reveal it to count as an extra building of that type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By far my least favorite of all the modules for all the expansions … for the most part [it never matters]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Workers Huts&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; new building tiles that are placed in stacks beside board. You may take a hut for free, but are limited to three per player. During scoring is worth as many buildings as the number of adjacent buildings of the same color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An expansion I use all the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 2 &quot;The City Gates&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2BtVmjS8NY&quot;&gt;Alhambra Expansion 2 Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/13287/alhambra-the-city-gates&quot;&gt;On BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; rating as 2012-11-09: &lt;em&gt;7.11/10&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you only get one expansion … then expansion two by far is the best one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The City Gates&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; cards are shuffled into the deck, may be taken when revealed. Allows you to place a gate token over walls to ignore them when building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you find yourself hemmed in and you need to add more tiles, this is an excellent expansion in that regard … really cool pieces … a module that I really like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Diamonds&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; new currency shuffled into the deck, essentially wild cards, can be used as any currency, but cannot be combined with regular currency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I really enjoy the extra currency. This is another module that I really enjoy and it's one that I will almost always stick in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Characters&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; several characters are shuffled into the deck, when one is revealed there is an auction for character. The bids must be single color currency. Each character grants owner special abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Something I like using, I won't use it all the time … it adds special powers to the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Camps&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; camp tiles are added to the bag. Must be placed with wall adjacent to a wall of your alhambra. During scoring you get points for each tile in the row or column indicated by the camp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My favorite module, I almost always play with this module because it adds a lot of enjoyment even though it's a simple change … &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 3 &quot;The Thief's Turn&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrAbH3vAyis&quot;&gt;Alhambra Expansion 3 Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/16494/alhambra-the-thiefs-turn&quot;&gt;On BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; rating as of 2012-11-09: &lt;em&gt;7.03/10&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My second favorite expansion … the main reason is the coin module&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The City Walls&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; cards are shuffled into the deck, may be taken when revealed. If taken you will place walls onto a tile already on the board as indicated by the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There's an module in expansion four … this is a good combination with that … I use City Walls sometimes … it just feels a little fiddly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Thieves&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; cards that show a a specific currency are dealt randomly to each player at the beginning of the game. You may play the card out of turn to take a currency of the indicated color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's okay … but it has a limited amount of uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Change&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; coins in each currency are placed into a bag. When you buy a tile, if you overpay for every two currency you overpay you may draw one coin from the bag. Coins may be used as one currency of the indicated type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is super fun and makes it into almost every game I play … neat idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Street Trader&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; a market tile allows you to place meeples on tiles you build under certain conditions. During scoring sets of different colored meeples are worth points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An interesting idea but changes Alhambra to a huge degree … it feels very convoluted … it takes away from everything else&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 4 &quot;The Treasure Chamber&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-_lDa3fv3g&quot;&gt;Alhambra Expansion 4 Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/22279/alhambra-the-treasure-chamber&quot;&gt;On BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; rating as of 2012-11-08: &lt;em&gt;7.10/10&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I like the fourth expansion almost as much as I like the third … some decent ideas in this expansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Treasure Chamber&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; different colored treasure chests are placed randomly in lots of four on a treasure chamber board. You may use your turn to pay 8 currency of any color to buy a lot of treasure chests and place them on buildings in your alhambra of matching colors, extras are discarded. During scoring the player with the most treasure chests earns points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I like the treasure chests, it adds a lot to the game without making it too complicated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Master Builders&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; cards are given to the players and added to the deck. They can be used as three currency of the indicated color, or can be used to take an extra realignment action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I like having all the extra threes in the deck … it's not the greatest of the modules but it's a good one&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Invaders&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; In each scoring round a card is revealed to show which direction invaders will attack. Tiles that do not have walls in the direction of the attack lose points. Scout cards help to learn the direction of the impending attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's a neat idea, and yet one of my least favorite of the modules … everyone gets so worried about the attacks and the points they take off aren't really that big of a deal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Bazaars&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; bazaar tiles indicating three colors and a currency are added to the bag. When they are revealed they may be bought with exact change of the currency indicated. At the end of the game the bazaar is worth points based on adjacent buildings matching the indicated colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I really enjoy it because it allows you to build your alhambra bigger … they encourage diversity … I really do enjoy playing with [this one]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion 5 &quot;Power of the Sultan&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f49PBRQE_Oc&quot;&gt;Alhambra Expansion 5 Review&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/39109/alhambra-power-of-the-sultan&quot;&gt;On BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; rating as of 2012-11-09: &lt;em&gt;7.04/10&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should have stopped while they were ahead, I almost want to call this the convoluted expansion … I'm not a huge fan of expansion five … there's some neat things in it that I can use … it seems like they're running out of ideas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The New Score Cards&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; new score card tiles allow for building colors to be valued randomly for each scoring round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This adds some variety … I like this, it makes you look ahead … a good expansion, one I use quite often&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Power of the Sultan&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; a sultan card and die allow for a tile of a specific color to be taken for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A bit of forward planning … it feels kind of odd … it's not one that I want to use very often … the amount of work put into it doesn't seem to be worth the payoff&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Caravanserai&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; a card can be purchased that can be used for different, increasingly valuable currencies each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like a constantly recharging currency … not as great as you might think because while it's reusable it does take a while to [gain value] … despite all that I like it … not one that I would use all the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;The Art of the Moors&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; playing matching tiles can lead to points at the end of the game through some complicated mechanics. Also has some tile reference cards that are useful regardless of expansions in use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In essence, a very convoluted … way to score the tiles by numbers in addition to scoring them by colors … I don't really know what to think about that … too complicated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastEditorUserId="3480" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T18:31:45.823" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T18:31:45.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9225" CreationDate="2012-11-10T01:08:52.673" Score="8" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you choose between &quot;trading&quot; a good (locally) and shipping it (abroad) when the two actions have rather different reward structures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do the relevant roles you might play (craftsman, captain, trader) affect these choices?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you have a warehouse, that gives you a wider choice of whether to trade or ship, and whether to do so this turn or in the future. More to the point, how do you decide, &quot;I need to buy a warehouse THIS turn, for 1-2 turns down the road?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:50:07.277" Title="In Puerto Rico, how do you tell whether it is better to trade or to ship a good?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9224" CreationDate="2012-11-10T01:41:02.710" Score="9" ViewCount="13216" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for vector graphics of each of the mana symbols (normal, hybrid, phyrexian, 2-or-color). Where can I find them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T02:26:22.940" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T04:28:59.520" Title="Are there vector graphics available of the mana symbols of magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9223" CreationDate="2012-11-10T02:36:03.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slightlymagic.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&amp;amp;t=4430&amp;amp;sid=a4157beb902583b681496f74398d506e&quot;&gt;Slightly Magic&lt;/a&gt; has most of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T02:36:03.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9222" CreationDate="2012-11-10T03:25:23.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on several factors that ultimately boil down to &lt;strong&gt;What is the roles overall value?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it the early game?&lt;/strong&gt; - In the early game, it is usually more important to gain coins than VP. The reason for this, is that you can exchange coins for buildings that will gain you more coins/VP over the course of the game than you would earn this turn by shipping and taking the VP. Until you have your coin generating buildings setup, usually consisting of a high value trade good/large market/factory, coins are usually of greater value. Some of the expansion building make this distinction moot (Black Market).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do your opponents make more Coins/VP because of your choice?&lt;/strong&gt; - Usually, in Puerto Rico, you want to make decisions that benefit you more than your opponents. If choosing Trader will benefit your opponents more, you might want to Captain instead (or select some other role). The few times you might select a role that doesn't seem to immediately help you relative to your opponents, is when you are denying them access to the cash necessary to buy some building (Guild Hall pops up a lot here), or denying them shipping on a large boat (they have lots of corn and you take a large boat and possibly tie up all the boats from emptying).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the role have a coin on it&lt;/strong&gt; - I will many times take a role card that has a coin, because all I need is that extra coin to buy a building I want during the next building phase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T03:25:23.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2197" CreationDate="2012-11-10T13:30:53.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the Scrabble Dictionary for further reference.  Slang words such as za and zn are recognized even if they don't seem to look like a word.  In this lens - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.squidoo.com/scrabble-solver-words-that-begins-with-z&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.squidoo.com/scrabble-solver-words-that-begins-with-z&lt;/a&gt; - you will find more awkward words yet they are recognized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3496" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T13:30:53.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5370" CreationDate="2012-11-10T13:53:02.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways on how you can improve your vocabulary to get more points in Scrabble. Learning new words is easier if you read a lot.  Whenever you encounter difficult words, you can write it down and look for the meaning in a dictionary.  It is easier to remember a word when you completely understand what it means.  Using Scrabble Word Finder tools like the one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogmybrain.com/scrabble-word-finder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blogmybrain.com/scrabble-word-finder/&lt;/a&gt;, will help you to know a list of difficult words which you can use in Scrabble.  Try also to play Scrabble regularly, so you can practice and hone your skills.  Read more information about the tips and tricks in Scrabble, so you would know  how to play the game and spot the high scoring letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3496" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T13:53:02.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8988" CreationDate="2012-11-10T14:03:01.533" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Words with Friends is often referred to as the advance version of the Scrabble.  The main differences of the two game is that Words with Friends can be played online with friends wherever they are.  It also has a feature wherein players can even chat with each other while playing the game. In this article - &lt;a href=&quot;http://ezinearticles.com/?Tips-on-How-to-Play-Words-With-Friends&amp;amp;id=7125844&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ezinearticles.com/?Tips-on-How-to-Play-Words-With-Friends&amp;amp;id=7125844&lt;/a&gt;, you would learn more about Words with Friends and how it differs from Scrabble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3496" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T14:03:01.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9230" CreationDate="2012-11-10T14:42:06.973" Score="6" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won the auction for a new Power Plant. I already have 3, so I need to get rid of one of them. Can I put resources from the plant I'm discarding on the plant I just bought? Do I need to store them for the duration of &quot;transfer&quot; on one of the plants I'm not getting rid of? Or do I lose resources when discarding the plant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-11-10T15:05:39.330" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T15:05:39.330" Title="Do I lose resources when buying 4th plant in Power Grid?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9229" CreationDate="2012-11-10T15:04:53.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may keep the resources, as long as the new plant can store them.&lt;/strong&gt; According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player buys a fourth plant, he must discard one of his other power plants. The player may move resources from the discarded power plant to his remaining three power plants, if they match the resources used by one or more of the retained power plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T15:04:53.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1059" CreationDate="2012-11-10T16:21:45.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Corn is a tempting commodity, because it is cheap to produce, meaning that you can get off to a fast start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is easy to fall behind with a corn ONLY strategy, because of its lack of synergy with certain other parts of the game. For instance, corn is the only commodity that can't be upgraded to a finished product, meaning that you can't get the extra money, at a time (early game) when money might be important. Also, as you found in your game, it doesn't always co-ordinate so well with other aspects of the game such as building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Corn only,&quot; may beat unskilled players using a similarly naive strategy. But more advanced players will devise building/shipping/captaining strategies that will defeat your &quot;corn only&quot; play. To win, you'll need to &quot;mix it up&quot; with other commodities, and/or buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, an &quot;X-only&quot; strategy is a bad idea in ANY game, even if &quot;X&quot; is a good thing. For instance, in poker, its a good idea to USUALLY have good cards when you bet. But if you NEVER bet with a bad or mediocre hand, your opponents will save too much money by &quot;folding&quot; mediocre hands when you bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bet the occasional mediocre hand, and bluff with &quot;nothing,&quot; one of two things will happen: 1) You will &quot;steal&quot; some extra hands that you wouldn't win in a showdown, or 2) You will get &quot;caught bluffing&quot; in a showdown, and having seen this happen once, people will &quot;pay you off&quot; more often when you bet a good hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T16:21:45.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9237" CreationDate="2012-11-10T17:41:18.530" Score="8" ViewCount="2735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up Talisman awhile ago and am enjoying it as are my friends. However we aren't much of ones for the &quot;PvP&quot; (player versus player) encounters which works fine until the end game and reaching the Crown of Command. We of course finish the game but it's just not as enjoyable for us. I tried looking up information on the expansions and possibilities of alternate non-PvP endings, where we do not have to kill each other in order to win, but descriptions on the expansions don't give many specifics on alternate endings. The only one that really seemed like it had a PvE (player versus environment) ending was the Dragon expansion. My question basically is, what Talisman expansions offer a PvE end goal and what are they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1125" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T02:58:05.183" LastActivityDate="2018-11-25T17:48:53.923" Title="What Talisman expansions give a PvE end goal?" Tags="|talisman|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9223" CreationDate="2012-11-10T18:46:17.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can download a font of various magic symbols &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=321284&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Most vector graphics programs should be able to convert from the font to vectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T18:46:17.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-10T20:06:39.653" Score="7" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the great thing about playing limited is that you have to work with what you've got, no matter how bad it is. This means that even some of the worst cards will occasionally see limited play even if they would have zero chance of making it into a competitive constructeddeck. I assume this has had a strong effect on how Wizards of The Coast designs their cards (especially commons), but I'm curious as to how designing a set for limited AND constructed formats as opposed to constructed only has affected their choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What sets were the first to be influenced by the rise of limited formats?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How did/do limited formats affect the design of MTG sets and cards?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T19:33:06.120" Title="How has the rise of limited formats affected MTG set design?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|sealed-deck|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6034" CreationDate="2012-11-10T21:07:20.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the accepted answer explains in detail, &quot;Yes&quot; for the basic set. However, with the 1910 expansion using the &quot;Mega&quot; variant, the ticket mix and incentives change so much that the answer is not so obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest change is the 15 point bonus card for completing the largest number of tickets. Many of the additional tickets are short and overlapping East Coast routes. And the initial ticket draw is keeping at least 3 of 5, with subsequent draws keeping at least 1 of 4. So drawing tickets is a much better bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the dozen or so games I've played since acquiring 1910, no one strategy has emerged as dominant, though we've seen some very impressive victories by obtaining and completing over a dozen tickets on the East Coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T21:07:20.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7425" CreationDate="2012-11-10T22:10:31.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well from what I've seen through the years, Space Marines will be your cheapest and easiest army to afford. They have a very solid presence when played, easy to learn the game with. Now as it stands I've not played since 2004 and started buying a new army after having to leave my Nurgle Army to a friend while I went off to college. So I came back to buying a few models in 2006 and went with the Imperial Guard. OMFG is this army expensive, but from what I've seen point wise to lay down an Imp Guard army w/o being all tanks is upwards to 200 models. It wouldn't be a problem with what I was buying them for in 2006 I bought 1 IG Battleforce which cost me 75 dollars, came with a Leman Russ, 2 squads, and 3 heavy weapon platforms. Now the Battleforce at 120 dollars comes with a worthless sentinel instead now...FFS at least they could have put a Chimera in there. GW is really getting out of hand with their prices it seems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3499" LastActivityDate="2012-11-10T22:10:31.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9232" CreationDate="2012-11-11T06:06:01.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to assume that you only are considering the &lt;strong&gt;Fourth Edition Expansions&lt;/strong&gt; by Fantasy Flight Games, since I assume that the Games Workshop editions are incompatible. The Dragon and Sacred Pool Expansion should fit your needs with all 3 alternate endings being PvE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Reaper Expansion (2008): No alternate endings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Dungeon Expansion (2009): No alternate endings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Frostmarch Expansion (2009): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Crown_and_Sceptre&quot;&gt;Crown and Sceptre&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Ice_Queen&quot;&gt;Ice Queen&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/588263/talisman-fourth-edition-the-frostmarch-expansion&quot;&gt;Warlock Quests&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Highland Expansion (2010): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1259645/talisman-fourth-edition-the-highland-expansion&quot;&gt;Battle Royale&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/678094/talisman-fourth-edition-the-highland-expansion&quot;&gt;The Eagle King&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1259382/talisman-fourth-edition-the-highland-expansion&quot;&gt;Hand of Doom&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Sacred Pool Expansion (2010): &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/846372/talisman-fourth-edition-the-sacred-pool-expansion&quot;&gt;Demon Lord&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/826933/talisman-fourth-edition-the-sacred-pool-expansion&quot;&gt;Judgement Day&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/846371/talisman-fourth-edition-the-sacred-pool-expansion&quot;&gt;Sacred Pool&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Dragon Expansion (2011): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1095128/talisman-fourth-edition-the-dragon-expansion?size=original&quot;&gt;Dragon Slayers, Dragon King, and Domain of Dragons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The Blood Moon Expansion (2012): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1299861/talisman-fourth-edition-the-blood-moon-expansion&quot;&gt;Horrible Black Hole&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1321740/talisman-fourth-edition-the-blood-moon-expansion&quot;&gt;Lightbearers&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1282914/talisman-fourth-edition-the-blood-moon-expansion&quot;&gt;Blood Moon Werewolf&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talisman: The City Expansion (2013): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1442033/talisman-fourth-edition-the-city-expansion&quot;&gt;Merchant's Guild&lt;/a&gt;, ??? (not released)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T06:06:01.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9238" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-11T06:07:39.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Now the trumpet summons us again, not as a call to bear arms, though arms we need; not as a call to battle, though embattled we are – but a call to bear the burden of a long twilight struggle...&quot;&#xA;– John F. Kennedy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 1945, unlikely allies toppled Hitler's war machine, while humanity's most devastating weapons forced the Japanese Empire to its knees in a storm of fire. Where once there stood many great powers, there then stood only two. The world had scant months to sigh its collective relief before a new conflict threatened. Unlike the titanic struggles of the preceding decades, this conflict would be waged not primarily by soldiers and tanks, but by spies and politicians, scientists and intellectuals, artists and traitors. Twilight Struggle is a two-player game simulating the forty-five year dance of intrigue, prestige, and occasional flares of warfare between the Soviet Union and the United States. The entire world is the stage on which these two titans fight to make the world safe for their own ideologies and ways of life. The game begins amidst the ruins of Europe as the two new &quot;superpowers&quot; scramble over the wreckage of the Second World War, and ends in 1989, when only the United States remained standing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twilight Struggle inherits its fundamental systems from the card-driven classics We the People and Hannibal: Rome vs. Carthage. It is a quick-playing, low-complexity game in that tradition. The game map is a world map of the period, whereon players move units and exert influence in attempts to gain allies and control for their superpower. As with GMT's other card-driven games, decision-making is a challenge; how to best use one's cards and units given consistently limited resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Twilight Struggle's Event cards add detail and flavor to the game. They cover a vast array of historical happenings, from the Arab-Israeli conflicts of 1948 and 1967, to Vietnam and the U.S. peace movement, to the Cuban Missile Crisis and other such incidents that brought the world to the brink of nuclear annihilation. Subsystems capture the prestige-laden Space Race as well as nuclear tensions, with the possibility of game-ending nuclear war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deluxe edition, published in 2009 includes the following changes from the basic game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounted map with revised graphics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two double-thick counter sheets with 260 counters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deck of 110 event cards (increased from 104)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revised rules and player aid cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade kit for the owners of the previous version includes the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mounted Map with revised graphics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New card decks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Updated Rules &amp;amp; Charts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also the deluxe mounted map and deluxe euro-style countersheet upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T07:02:27.607" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T07:02:27.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9239" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-11T06:07:39.853" Score="0" Body="Twilight Struggle is a card-driven, quick-playing, low-complexity game. The game map is a world map of the period, whereon players move units and exert influence in attempts to gain allies and control for their superpower. As with GMT's other card-driven games, decision-making is a challenge; how to best use one's cards and units given consistently limited resources?" OwnerUserId="3459" LastEditorUserId="3459" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T07:02:22.817" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T07:02:22.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8223" CreationDate="2012-11-11T10:38:24.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, having allies is never a bad strategy, whether it is in Diplomacy or in real life wars. But the one thing I've learnt about Diplomacy is that an alliance never lasts long. There is only one winner at the end of the game. If you agree with the other country that Russia will be destroyed and that you will share the remains, it is a good idea. The question you should ask yourself is: &quot;should I betray the other before he betrays me?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me answer your question in a more generalistic way. Whenever two countries are allies in Diplomacy, each part should have these two strategies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will I do if we are allied? What do I want from my friend? What do I do when I have what I want?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What does my ally want? What do I do if I am betrayed? Is there a way for me to forsee that betrayal and use it to my advantage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, yes, it is a good idea to team up with a distant country, but until when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T07:44:31.093" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T07:44:31.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9241" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-11T14:11:58.407" Score="16" ViewCount="4746" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule book explains Throne Room's effect as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You pick another Action card in your hand, play it, and play it again. The second use of the Action card doesn't use up any extra Actions you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I played Witch with Throne Room, according to the rules, the second use of Witch doesn't use up another action, doesn't that mean the first use of Witch cost an action?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in essence, whenever you play Throne Room, wouldn't you need to first play cards that give you additional actions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3501" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-11T16:22:36.853" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T16:22:36.853" Title="Do you need spare actions available to play Throne Room?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9241" CreationDate="2012-11-11T14:59:02.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of them cost an action, the only action cost here is playing the Throne Room itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T14:59:02.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9241" CreationDate="2012-11-11T16:16:51.493" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throne Room costs an Action to play; the card you play twice is part of the &lt;strong&gt;effect&lt;/strong&gt; of Throne Room, and neither play of it consumes an Action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My speculation is that that particular wording was in answer to a complaint encountered during development, something like: &quot;Village gave you two actions, but you just played that Witch two times with Throne Room, so you have no actions left.&quot; That's a mistaken understanding of the way Actions work, of course, but everyone was a novice back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards that include allowing you to play other Actions as part of the effect include King's Court (from Prosperity), Cultist, and Procession (both from Dark Ages). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T16:16:51.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9245" CreationDate="2012-11-11T18:18:07.620" Score="6" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this game, when you land on the hospital space, you must pay half your salary to the doctor or to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no further clarification about this issue. So what if there is more than one doctor playing? they divide the amount received?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T18:44:15.297" Title="What if there is more than one doctor?" Tags="|careers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9244" CreationDate="2012-11-11T18:44:15.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the games instructions found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pressmantoy.com/instructions/instruct_careers.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When completing College, you do not draw an Experience Card; instead&#xA;  you score an automatic salary increase of $20,000, and select a degree&#xA;  as you leave. If you are the first player to pass through College,&#xA;  select any degree from the specialized degrees offered, and check it&#xA;  in the &quot;Education&quot; column of your score sheet. &lt;strong&gt;However, each degree&#xA;  may be awarded only once.&lt;/strong&gt; Thus, if you are the second player to&#xA;  graduate from College, and the first graduate selected the Science&#xA;  Degree, your choice is limited to the remaining three, and so on for&#xA;  the first four players. If you are the fifth or sixth player to pass&#xA;  through College, you may not score any of the specialized degrees, but&#xA;  do score the regular College Degree and the normal salary increase of&#xA;  $20,000. Any College Degree, specialized or regular, may be used for&#xA;  entering Big Business. &lt;strong&gt;A player selecting the degree in medicine&#xA;  becomes the Doctor.&lt;/strong&gt; He or she receives payments for players in the&#xA;  Hospital; the Doctor does not have to pay upon landing in the Hospital&#xA;  and may move out of this space on his or her next turn. (Note: If the&#xA;  Doctor is instructed to go to the Hospital he or she must go&#xA;  immediately even though they do not follow the instructions printed on&#xA;  the square when they get there.) No player may go to College more than&#xA;  once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not an expert at the game by any means, but I would infer from the sentences I've highlighted above that, in fact, there can only be one Doctor in any one game of Careers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-11T18:44:15.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9248" CreationDate="2012-11-12T01:58:04.840" Score="11" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family and I are confused about the wording in the instructions. Perhaps my question is best asked with an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the Alien Tech Institute card, which has three parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 VPs for each alien tech production world &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 VPs for alien technology windfall worlds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 VPs for other &quot;alien&quot; cards, including this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I end the game with 1 alien production card, and 2 alien windfall cards, would I receive VPs for both categories that I satisfy (in this case 7 total), or just the windfall category, which would give me a total of 4 VPs total?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3505" LastEditorUserId="3423" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T12:36:39.043" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T01:10:59.687" Title="In Race for the Galaxy on 6-cost development cards, does a player receive VPs for all of the categories they have satisfied, or just one?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2012-11-12T02:18:27.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would get 7 points for your alien worlds.  The scoring is cumulative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T02:18:27.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2012-11-12T02:18:38.070" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You would get all of them that you satisfy.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the rules don't actually clarify this (that I could see), the entire point of playing them is to earn extra victory points for how you've setup your tableux, like focusing on alien tech in the case you pointed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T02:18:38.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9250" CreationDate="2012-11-12T11:45:09.297" Score="6" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a card game I used to play when I was in school in the Middle East--which I understand is based on a French game called Belote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of an English set of rules for this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game involves 4 players in two teams, only uses the 7's and up of each suit (A,K,Q,J,10,9,8,7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each turn starts with a bidding process for the top card; it's either chosen to be the trump suite or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scoring is different for the trump suit as is, the rank of the cards, (trump: J,9,A,10,K,Q,8,7) vs (non-trump: A,10,K,Q,J,9,8,7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each round consists of a player playing one card into the pile, the team with the highest value card wins that round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also sets of cards like three/four/five in a row or 4 of a kind that are worth bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a concise set of rules in English for this game, preferably the Arabic variant, if not the French original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:19:38.273" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:19:38.273" Title="English Rules for the card game Belote" Tags="|belote|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9249" CreationDate="2012-11-12T11:51:35.737" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like I misspelt the name of the game. It's actually Belut or Belote&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found a set of rules here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/jass/belote.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/jass/belote.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference in rules to what I'm used to that I can see from a glance is that 4 Aces is worth 400 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T11:51:35.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9253" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:26:41.913" Score="3" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stinkweed%20Imp&quot;&gt;Stinkweed Imp&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt; get the extra trample damage if a 3/3 flyer blocks? Is Stinkweed's text is the same as an actual deathtouch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3477" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T19:41:19.057" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T19:52:04.010" Title="Stinkweed Imp + Rancor and a flying 3/3 blocker" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9251" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:46:41.690" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature has been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked, that creature is destroyed. The damage itself leads to the destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's not the case for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stinkweed%20Imp&quot;&gt;Stinkweed Imp&lt;/a&gt;. Its damage does not leads to the destruction, a triggered ability eventually does. It must assign damage normally, so it must assign all three of its damage to the flyer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the key difference: One can respond to Stinkweed's Imp's ability. It can even be &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=46558&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;countered&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T19:52:04.010" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T19:52:04.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9254" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:49:53.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/custom-game-pieces&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'custom-game-pieces'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;custom-game-pieces&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/miniatures&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'miniatures'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;miniatures&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T23:51:39.367" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T23:51:39.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9255" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:49:53.430" Score="0" Body="Techniques for building models, including miniatures and other game pieces like terrain." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T20:28:30.290" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T20:28:30.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9256" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:54:11.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do not use this tag in isolation; pair it with a tag for the game(s) being discussed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T20:29:02.537" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T20:29:02.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9257" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-12T19:54:11.350" Score="0" Body="Order of play, seating order, and related issues." OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-11-12T20:28:54.283" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T20:28:54.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8223" CreationDate="2012-11-12T23:08:19.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on what you're trying to accomplish.  Corner alliances are quite different from neighbor alliances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Information sharing is often more effective, because there is little reason for your corner ally to try to deceive you, and other players often overlook this and tell your ally information thinking that &quot;It doesn't matter if he knows&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;While I generally agree with Oltarus that you need to plan for when an alliance will end, corner allies have relatively limited ability to attach each other effectively, so its unlikely that a stab from them will put you out of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because your opponent is generally between you and your ally (at least early on), there isn't much you can do to help each other attack.  You can't support each other's attacks until the battle is mostly over, and Russia can hold out for quite a while against you if other players don't join in.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As England, if you don't choose a side in the EFG triangle, its likely that F and G both end up attacking you (since fighting each other 1 on 1 leaves them both weak).  So you will likely need to work with someone there first, and then transition to an attack on Russia after your first target is on the ropes.  Turkey has a bit easier time focusing on Russia, but if Italy is gunning for you, you're likely to have to spend a lot on defense, even assuming Austria is friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I definitely encourage you to be friendly with your fellow &quot;witch&quot;, but it is difficult to make this an effective &quot;primary&quot; alliance, at least in the early game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-11-12T23:08:19.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6479" CreationDate="2012-11-13T03:23:35.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You interpreted the rules correctly. The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if your Ship is in a hex without an Influence Disc after the Combat&#xA;  Phase, you may place a disc there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which does not require that you actually participate in combat, just that you have a ship in a hex without any influence disks. So you are allowed to claim an influence disk free hex by ending your turn with a ship in that hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/838988/at-end-of-combat-phase-can-you-place-an-influence&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; forum post at Board Game Geek discusses the same question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T03:23:35.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9260" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-13T15:58:34.903" Score="6" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some general clues that indicate if someone is playing the role of saboteur? Obviously if player is going to put a troublesome dead end on the only path he's a saboteur. But some players are more subtle, and they come out of cover late in the game. How can I spot a saboteur early on in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T16:26:05.383" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T13:39:47.280" Title="How to tell if someone is saboteur?" Tags="|saboteur|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9264" CreationDate="2012-11-13T16:44:59.830" Score="6" ViewCount="2511" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'em poker, when it is a player's turn, he tries to make a best hand out of his hole cards (private cards) and the communal cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is: On what factors does he decide to add more chips and play for the next round or fold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3471" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T17:12:29.003" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T00:09:11.973" Title="When should a player decide to fold in Texas Hold'em Poker?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9261" CreationDate="2012-11-13T17:02:12.773" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of two reasons why someone would decide to add more chips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He thinks he has the best hand at the table (he wants to win a large pot).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He thinks he can convince others that he has the best hand at the table (he wants the stakes to be too high for others to continue).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T17:10:10.757" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T17:10:10.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9267" CreationDate="2012-11-13T17:02:28.257" Score="11" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hoard&lt;/strong&gt; is a treasure worth 2 that also reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While this is in play, when you buy a Victory card, gain a Gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It costs the same as a Gold (i.e. 6) and while it's not immediately worth as much as a Gold, it obviously generates Golds. I get the impression that Hoard is suited to being bought under specific conditions and at specific points in a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I consider when choosing between Gold and Hoard?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T20:55:12.957" Title="Should I buy Gold or Hoard?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9261" CreationDate="2012-11-13T17:03:01.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a hard question to answer, and depends on the player's style and whether the player likes to bluff, as well as the style and skill of the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I don't have decent hole cards (low cards or nothing matching) I fold. I might risk it if I'm one of the blinds, but if I'm raised I'll fold. If I have a decent starting hand I usually wait for the flop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion you should bet based on the strength of your cards. Generally speaking, the games I've won have always been ones where I've consistently been conservative, and I find the same applies to my opponents. By conservative I mean don't bet unless you're sure the odds are in your favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more on odds, read &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.texasholdem-poker.com/odds&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="824" LastEditDate="2012-11-13T17:23:19.120" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T17:23:19.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9263" CreationDate="2012-11-13T17:05:42.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy hoard when you plan to buy victory cards early or often. Hoard is a great card to pick up if there are victory cards in the kingdom cards that interest you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't buy it when you think the game will end with you just having your share of provinces/colonies. These are expensive, meaning you will need the extra $1 from the gold. also, you will likely buy these too late in the game to make use of the extra gold in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T17:05:42.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9261" CreationDate="2012-11-13T18:10:05.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general concept here is known as &quot;pot odds&quot;.  The basic goal is to figure out your probability of winning, and then compare the amount of money to &quot;call&quot; to the total amount of money you would win if you are successful.  Neither of those are known values though, so you need to do your best to guess what they are.  That requires both thinking about both the probability of upcoming cards that might improve your hand, as well as what hands you opponents might be able to create based on their private cards and upcoming cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this ignores the idea the concepts of bluffing as well as the fact that you often want to raise people if you feel you have better pot odds than them, to raise the amount of money you can potentially win and to decrease the chance that they stay in the pot and win on a lucky card on the river.  So you can imagine that many books have been written on this subject, and thus it is impossible to give a complete answer on a site like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T18:10:05.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9263" CreationDate="2012-11-13T20:10:17.310" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One common mistake people make is picking up a Hoard right away, and then buying a Duchy (or even Estate) to get the extra Gold. When you do that, you have added 3 cards to your deck, for a total of $5 money. That's less money-per-card than just a Silver gives you! Each time you buy a Duchy and get a Gold, you're adding 2 cards for $3 money... again, worse than Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Hoard certainly has it's place. If there are other useful Victory Cards, like Island or Tunnel or Nobles, then Hoard becomes great. Also, if you think that it's likely that a Gold would give you $9 to spend on the turn you see it, then Hoard will probably be better, because then you'll have $8 to spend, which is still enough for a Province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To figure out how likely it is that you'll be able to get a Province, it really depends on the rest of your deck. If you have lots of other money, or you have a good engine that can draw a lot of cards, then it's a pretty safe bet usually that buying Hoard over Gold won't cost you that Province. A general rule of thumb that I personally follow on most boards is to buy a Gold first, and then Hoards after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good article on Hoard strategy: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/12/02/prosperity-hoard/&quot;&gt;http://dominionstrategy.com/2010/12/02/prosperity-hoard/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2012-11-13T20:10:17.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9269" CreationDate="2012-11-13T20:29:43.613" Score="12" ViewCount="6013" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having found a nice &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slightlymagic.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&amp;amp;t=4430&amp;amp;sid=a4157beb902583b681496f74398d506e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;vector graphics for magic symbols&lt;/a&gt;, I wonder what the symbols on the second-to-last row are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fD0so.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fD0som.png&quot; alt=&quot;Magic symbols&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recognize tap, untap, infinite and half, and the last one as the earlier white, but what are the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T21:17:09.943" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T05:57:10.423" Title="What are those magic symbols?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9268" CreationDate="2012-11-13T20:47:17.807" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They are old versions of the tap symbol.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is explained in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/arcana/604&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article posted on Daily MTG&lt;/a&gt;, the symbol with the T is the tap symbol from Revised through Fallen Empires and the one with the rectangle is the tap symbol from 4th Edition through Scourge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article includes an image with old versions of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRoyal%20Assassin%5d&quot;&gt;Royal Assassin&lt;/a&gt; making it pretty intuitive that they're tap symbols:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQZ93.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EQZ93.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T21:31:46.630" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T21:31:46.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9271" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9273" CreationDate="2012-11-13T23:47:24.610" Score="33" ViewCount="8694" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Agricola, the Fireplace and Cooking Hearth both allow you to convert animals to food &quot;at any time.&quot; Can you use this ability to cook animals if you don't have room in your pastures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, if you have zero pastures and grab four sheep, can you cook three of them and keep the fourth as a pet (or cook all four), or do you only get to keep/cook one of them, while the other three presumably wander off and get eaten by wolves as you dither over which one to eat first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:23:28.367" Title="Can you throw animals into the stewpot if you don't have enough pasture room for any of them?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9261" CreationDate="2012-11-14T00:09:11.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player &quot;folds&quot; when someone bets and  he decides he can't win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He may have a bad hand, with &quot;long odds&quot; to improve, and there are one or more bets from players that seem to have a better hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The players at the table can't be bluffed out (particularly in limit), and are not known for playing hands worse than the player holds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T00:09:11.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9271" CreationDate="2012-11-14T00:30:39.537" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can cook them directly. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Agricola_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, p.9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 Sheep&lt;/strong&gt; (Stage 1): Place 1 Sheep on this space in the Replenish phase (Phase 2) of each round. A player who selects this action takes all the Sheep from the Action&#xA;  space and must either put them into his farmyard or use an Improvement&#xA;  to turn them into food. Sheep that cannot be pastured or turned into Food are returned to the general supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to the other animal spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an important tactical option. The threat of having all the sheep grabbed and devoured often forces a player with pastures to pick the sheep up sooner than they might like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, yes you may cook three and keep one, or cook all four immediately, at your discretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, during harvest you &lt;strong&gt;may not&lt;/strong&gt; send a newly bred animal straight to the stew pot if you don't have room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On p.4 of the rules: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Baby animals and parent animals may not be converted into Food immediately after the birth(for example, if you only have room for two animals of that type); they simply run away if they cannot be accommodated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T01:23:28.367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T01:23:28.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9268" CreationDate="2012-11-14T09:55:31.553" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;1st row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic mana costs (0..9) (and for smaller numbers, colorless mana in mana abilities on cards before the colorless mana symbol was added in Oath of the Gatewatch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic mana costs (10..19)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3rd row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic mana costs (20)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic variable mana costs (X,Y,Z)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored mana symbols&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snow mana symbol (from the Ice Age block)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4th row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hybrids mana symbols&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5th row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monocolored hybrid mana symbols&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phyrexian mana symbols (from the New Phyrexia set)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6th row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap cost (Current, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=236464&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M12's Royal Assassin&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untap cost (from the Shadowmoor block, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crackleburr&quot;&gt;Crackleburr&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colorless mana amount (from the Un- sets, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Lotus&quot;&gt;Mox Lotus&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic fractional mana cost (from the Un- sets, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cheap%20Ass&quot;&gt;Cheap Ass&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old icon for tap cost&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=1175&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Revised's Royal Assassin&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old icon for tap cost&lt;/strong&gt; (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2124&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fourth's Royal Assassin&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Old white mana symbol (e.g. Alpha's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blessing&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7th row:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic mana cost (from the Un- sets, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleemax&quot;&gt;Gleemax&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generic mana cost (from the Un- sets, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Lotus&quot;&gt;Mox Lotus&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chaos symbol (Used in Planechase games, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/extra/plane/planechase/llanowar.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Llanowar&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored fractional mana symbol (from the Un- sets, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Little%20Girl&quot;&gt;Little Girl&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colored fractional mana symbol (from the Un- sets, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=73957&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mons's Goblin Waiters&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separator used in the power/toughness box of creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phyrexian mana symbol (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rage%20Extractor&quot;&gt;Rage Extractor&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T05:57:10.423" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T05:57:10.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-14T11:36:40.067" Score="10" ViewCount="5539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always played Smallworld with the belief that the Sorcerer's swap/replace ability was only used at &lt;em&gt;the end&lt;/em&gt; of the player's turn.  But I recently played it with a different group who said the power could be used &lt;em&gt;at any point&lt;/em&gt; during a player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do other people play this ability?  Does it really matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-14T16:24:59.703" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T01:11:43.823" Title="Can the sorcerer's ability be used at any time during the turn?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9275" CreationDate="2012-11-14T12:50:49.647" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once per turn per opponent, your Sorcerers can conquer&#xA;a region by substituting 1 of your opponent’s active&#xA;tokens with one of your own from the tray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Can Sorcerers use their Ability after placing all their units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: It depends what you mean. The Sorcerers cannot use their Ability after doing a final conquest for the turn using the Reinforcement die roll. But they can use their ability otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it should be playing during the attack phase, before the reinforcement die roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I don't think it makes a big difference, but in Smallworld one point can make the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T12:50:49.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6871" CreationDate="2012-11-14T12:53:21.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Farmers are a great way to swing the board and win a game, but you have to be really careful because your meeples are essentially trapped. The answer, as ever, is it depends. But there are certain things you should avoid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not overcommit meeples to farming. They become trapped and you'll become frozen from scoring. This is especially important later in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask yourself if committing a farmer is worth it. It's easy to see if the board board will turn into a cluster of small cities, or some giant disjointed cities. I prefer to observe this pattern before I commit. Three or six points early in the game are not worth losing my meeple. I can use them to score similar amounts while retaining their use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't rush. Joining farms belonging to opponents is easy with careful planning. Keep an eye out for curved road tiles and green patches on city tiles. I've seen games won and lost with the last tile on too many occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as a useless tile. Tiles that seem useless can be used defensively to prevent people from taking over or infiltrating your farms (or other features).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advanced players prefer to score small quick gains while holding on to their meeples. At the end of the game you'll usually see a blitz for small farms and other features as scoring opportunities diminish. I play regularly against players with circa 1800 ELO, and I've observed this pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the biggest mistake newbies make is they over commit meeples to farming, or completely overlook it. The trick is finding the right balance and reading the board well. It's about using your meeples efficiently, and this is very situational, but the above guidelines should stand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T12:53:21.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2012-11-14T15:49:50.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an official 2 player Settlers version introduced in the Traders and Barbarians expansion. This has 2 neutral players placed, who build something whenever a player does which you can use to block in your opponents. You can use trade chips to force a 2 for 2 trade with your opponent, which costs 2 trade chips if you are in the lead, or 1 if you are behind. You can these chips from building on the desert, on a coast, disbanding a solider or from initial setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/21616/error/expired/klaus2player-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/21616/error/expired/klaus2player-pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-11-14T15:49:50.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9281" CreationDate="2012-11-14T20:57:41.457" Score="7" ViewCount="1690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand this ruling, which is pretty normal for Tournaments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•Models must be played on the bases provided with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my specific case, there are quite a number of Tyranid Special Characters that have never had a model created for them.  For some of these monsters, it seems fairly straightforward:  The Doom of Malantai would have a Zoanthrope Base, the Tyranid Prime would have a Warrior Base.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some existing models that used to be released with smalled bases:  The old Hive Tyrants (Square base, and warrior size base) would up-size to the the current Hive Tyrant large base.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For models like the Harpy, Parasite of Mortrex; I'm not sure about.  The flavour for the harpy says it's a lighter Monstrous creature, that is related to the Trygon.  Would it use a Trygon base?  or a Hive Tyrant base?    Is the Parasite of Mortrex a Gargoyle base?  or a Warrior sized base?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen any official ruling on this.  Since these models are all custom conversions, it seems somewhat open to interpretation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What size base should I be using for models where the base size is not clearly defined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T14:56:09.227" Title="What is the ruling for Warhammer base size when GW has not produced an official model?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|warhammer-fantasy|basing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9284" CreationDate="2012-11-15T09:14:32.897" Score="4" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each speakeasy has 3 docks (majority, minority, and public), but within each of those docks/bays, how many trucks are allowed to queue?  For example, say there is a speakeasy with 4 minority holders (no majority), can each holder put a truck in the minority (two star) loading dock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The space on the board between the front of the speakeasy and the placeholders for Men of Action cards is only &lt;a href=&quot;http://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic930927_md.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;big enough to comfortably fit 2&lt;/a&gt;.  But there is nothing in the rules (as far as I could see) which limited the number of trucks allowed in each dock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T16:33:01.870" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T16:33:01.870" Title="How many trucks can line up in one dock outside a speakeasy?" Tags="|bootleggers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9279" CreationDate="2012-11-15T14:56:09.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no hard and fast rule for it.  I would suggest using a base size most appropriate for the size of the model.  So if the model is Terminator sized, use a 40mm, if Dreadnought sized, use a 60mm.  So convert your model and use what makes sense.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires a bit of good judgement and common sense.  If you made a reasonable selection most people will be OK with it in a friendly game.  Though you should always check with your opponent before using something non-standard.  If you plan on using your converted models in a tournament, contact the tournament organizer before hand to get a ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for units that used to be released with different base sizes, you are still free to use the base they came with, but I would recommend re-basing with the most up-to-date sizes.  This will keep things consistent if you ever need to mix and match new and old models.       &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T14:56:09.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9263" CreationDate="2012-11-15T19:17:22.303" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The usefulness of Hoard depends on a few things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are any dual-type Victory cards (Great Hall, Nobles, Harem, Island, Tunnel, etc...) in play, buy those with Hoard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any cards that let you trash cards in play?  If so, buy Estates and Duchies, then trash them later. This works even better if you have multiple buys, as Horde applies to &lt;strong&gt;every&lt;/strong&gt; Buy while it's in play. Bishop (2 VP for trashing Estates, 3 VP for trashing Duchies) or Expand are the best two trashing cards for this strategy, but things like Remodel work almost as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any special Victory cards in play (Gardens, Silk Road, Feodum)? Buying those with the Hoard works fairly well, although this works better in late game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any cards that let you draw multiple cards? If you can gain enough other money, you can buy Provinces and Colonies with your Hoard(s) in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example of #2, if you have 2 Hoards and a card that gives you a second Buy, buying two Estates gives you 4 Golds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In end game, if you have a lot of money, adding a Hoard can't hurt as every time you buy a Province/Colony with the Hoard out, you add another money card to help offset the additional Victory card in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-15T20:55:12.957" LastActivityDate="2012-11-15T20:55:12.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6499" CreationDate="2012-11-16T07:04:47.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Army%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Army of the Damned&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20Ranks%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rooftop%20Storm&quot;&gt;Rooftop Storm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undead%20Alchemist&quot;&gt;Undead Alchemist&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zombie%20Nightmare&quot;&gt;Zombie Nightmare&lt;/a&gt; and 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;s with a couple of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gilded%20Lotus&quot;&gt;Gilded Lotus&lt;/a&gt;es and the game is practically yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using just &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Army%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Army of the Damned&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20Ranks%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead&lt;/a&gt; and 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;s I've been able to bring out an endless horde of zombies (I mean 32 2/2 black zombie tokens storming the battlefield plus being able to sacrifice with them to keep alive your most valuable zombie creatures). Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rooftop%20Storm&quot;&gt;Rooftop Storm&lt;/a&gt; and you can play any zombie card free of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3522" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T16:40:09.450" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T16:40:09.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9280" CreationDate="2012-11-16T14:42:30.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I'm going to risk making the obvious answer.  There is nothing in the rules which limits the number of trucks allowed in each dock... probably because there is no limit to the number of trucks allowed in each dock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at this example paragraph in the rulebook (p11):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b. If the demand has not been fulfilled, the Speakeasy must continue&#xA;  buying Crates from the Truck(s) at the Minority Dock, again paying the&#xA;  Wholesale Purchase Price to the Crate supplier.  The Trucks are lined&#xA;  up in Muscle card order, so Mobsters with higher Muscle cards are more&#xA;  likely to sell their Crates.  Any Crates in excess of demand go unsold&#xA;  and are lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Truck(s) clearly implies that there can be multiple trucks at the Minority&#xA;Dock.  All the stuff about lining trucks up in Muscle card order suggests to&#xA;me, albeit more vaguely, that there can be quite a few trucks there.  If there were only 2 trucks allowed at the Minority Dock, you'd expect some kind of phrasing such as &quot;the Mobster with more Muscle cards&quot;, rather than &quot;Mobsters with higher Muscle cards&quot;, wouldn't you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T14:42:30.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1121" CreationDate="2012-11-16T14:47:12.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battle star galactica with the first expansion (Pegasus something?) should fit the bill. If you play with a Cylon leader the game has more or less three teams, humans, cylons and the leader.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The humans want to get off the planet. The cylons want to destroy them and the cylon leader draws a card to decide which side she wants to win. The tricky part is that even if she wants the humans to win she needs to hurt them a bit first to win herself. For instance destroy a certain number of fighters.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the humans win but she hasn't destroyed enough then she still loses otherwise she wins with the humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T14:47:12.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7712" CreationDate="2012-11-16T15:00:33.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought ultra pro black sleeves and ultrapro white sleeves (700) for my cards against humanity [I have both expansions].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using both colors helps keep cards distinct. Also, since we usually play around drinks it helps ensure that they stay protected/away from sticky surfaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally useful, is that the write your own blank cards stay in tact (i used a sharpie and the text started to smudge off).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3524" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T15:00:33.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9289" CreationDate="2012-11-16T19:28:51.650" Score="3" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the third part of Time's Up! (the Peter Sarrett game), I have to mime without speaking. Let's say my partner has to guess the movie &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Seven&lt;/strong&gt; Samurai&quot;. Is it allowed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to mime the figure with seven fingers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to mime another figure (six) and mime to add one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T20:45:29.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T20:45:29.893" Title="Time's Up! rule to guess a number" Tags="|times-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9307" CreationDate="2012-11-16T21:02:13.017" Score="4" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 56 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://ia700302.us.archive.org/9/items/littlewarsgamefo00well/littlewarsgamefo00well_bw.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Little Wars&lt;/a&gt;, Wells writes, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Blow at the Rear game is decided when at least three men of one force reach any point in the back line of their antagonist. He is then supposed to have suffered a strategic defeat...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all three men have to be present at once? Or can two arrive, be killed, and one more arrive later in the game (or some other variation where the three all arrive, but are not all present at once)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3440" LastEditorUserId="3440" LastEditDate="2012-11-16T21:28:41.207" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T12:16:54.510" Title="Must all three men be on the back line at once in Little Wars' &quot;Blow to the rear&quot; Variation?" Tags="|variants|little-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9287" CreationDate="2012-11-16T21:33:02.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume a normal charades-style ruleset applies to the mimed round of Time's Up.  Looking at the &quot;Rules of the acted charade&quot; as given on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; I see the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most commonly, the actor is allowed to make any gestures other than&#xA;  blatantly spelling out the word. In more stringent sets of rules,&#xA;  indicating anything about the form of the phrase is prohibited, even&#xA;  the number of words, so that only the meaning may be acted out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how there can realistically be a prohibition on holding up seven fingers to &quot;mime&quot; the word seven.  Any more than it should be illegal to mime &quot;head&quot; by pointing to one's head!  It just so happens that numbers are unusually easy concepts to mime...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T21:33:02.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9292" CreationDate="2012-11-16T21:54:43.870" Score="8" ViewCount="9885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I needed to get from Riga to Bucaresti. I had trains connecting Riga to Kyiv, but the route from Kyiv to Bucaresti was taken by another player. I played a station on Kyiv, but the route did not complete (I'm playing the iPhone version). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What am I misunderstanding about the use of stations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3525" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T22:26:56.970" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T04:30:07.113" Title="Why didn't my station complete the route?" Tags="|online|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9260" CreationDate="2012-11-16T21:58:17.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously, if you are a digger and someone is continuously destroying your&#xA;tools, you might expect them to be a saboteur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A less obvious&#xA;way is to detect who are diggers and use deduction. You know ahead&#xA;how many saboteurs there can be in your game so if you can eliminate&#xA;some players the chances for others to be saboteurs are getting&#xA;higher.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Look at who is an obvious digger, and look at who is&#xA;destroying their tools, or blocking their paths. Obvious diggers are&#xA;easily targeted by saboteurs, so that is another way to spot a&#xA;saboteur. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could argue that in the end the best saboteurs are those that remain hidden&#xA;for a long time, but this could also be a weakness, if you are a&#xA;digger and you find it hard to detect whether a player is a digger or&#xA;a saboteur, maybe they are playing hard to read because they have&#xA;something to hide. Arguably diggers have no advantage having their identity hidden so a player who is hard to read is more likely to be a saboteur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you still don't know, just call them a &quot;saboteur&quot; and see what the general reaction is. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-11-16T21:58:17.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9290" CreationDate="2012-11-16T22:09:19.620" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Train Station allows its owner to use &lt;strong&gt;one, and only one&lt;/strong&gt;, of the&#xA;  routes belonging to another player, into (or out of) that city to help&#xA;  him connect the cities on his Destination Tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the instructions (emphasis mine), a station can only be used on a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; route into or out of the city on which it's placed.  Even if the route from &lt;code&gt;Riga&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Kyiv&lt;/code&gt; was complete (and I'll assume you double-checked that), the &lt;code&gt;Kyiv&lt;/code&gt; station could &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be used to complete the ticket if it was already being used to connect a different route (i.e. via &lt;code&gt;Kyiv-Warszawa&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Kyiv-Smolensk&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Kyiv-Wilno&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Kyiv-Kharkov&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Kyiv-Budapest&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &lt;code&gt;Kyiv&lt;/code&gt; station &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; already prescribed to a different route, you could still complete the ticket by activating the &lt;code&gt;Kyiv-Bucaresti&lt;/code&gt; line through a station placed on &lt;code&gt;Bucaresti&lt;/code&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the electronic version of the game, it does not immediately show tickets as complete if they rely on stations; since only one of the routes out of any given city can be used, and &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; route that may be is not decided until after the game is over (but before the score is calculated), &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;the game doesn't know which route you want to use until the end of the game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; give you credit for routes completed with properly-used stations when it tallies up your score at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2012-11-24T21:08:16.747" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T21:08:16.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9290" CreationDate="2012-11-17T02:28:03.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The station, when played, only works for one chunk of track. In the boardgame version, players usually move the station physically over the track being used, thus helping to visualize the &quot;one, and only one&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, page 6 of the rules for TTR:Europe, the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player uses the same Station to help connect cities on several different Tickets, &lt;strong&gt;he must use the same route into the city with the Station for all&#xA;  of those Tickets&lt;/strong&gt;. The Train Station owner does not need to decide which route he will use until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the case of the OP's issue, obviously, another route was used (probably for other tickets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having played both the computer version and the tabletop version, however, occasionally the computer version glitches on stations, using it for the lower value route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T02:28:03.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9294" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-17T19:57:17.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/91312/discworld-ankh-morpork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Discworld: Ankh-Morpork&lt;/a&gt; is an area control game set in Terry Pratchett's Discworld. Players are lords in the city trying to seize power, with secret objectives that might involve claiming a majority or areas or having a presence in a certain number of areas. A player's objective might also be to play through the whole game without anyone ELSE winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player has a hand of cards that let them perform certain actions, including placing pieces on the board (to help claim areas), claiming money from the bank or other players, paying to build a building that will give you some benefit, or killing off the minions belonging to other players. During their turn, a player will play a card and perform the actions on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:21:49.030" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:21:49.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9295" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-17T19:57:17.413" Score="0" Body="Discworld: Ankh-Morpork is an area control game set in Terry Pratchett's Discworld." OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-17T23:21:54.787" LastActivityDate="2012-11-17T23:21:54.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2552" CreationDate="2012-11-18T00:14:50.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever my group has 5 or 6 for Dominion, I try to split it into two groups, either 3+2 or 3+3. With Intrigue, there are enough basic Treasure, Victory, and Curses to go around. Then when both groups are finished, you can switch and play with the other Kingdom with no additional setup time; then compare notes as to how the different groups handled the different boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T00:14:50.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9298" CreationDate="2012-11-18T02:03:47.737" Score="10" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fluxx, the Draw X cards state that the current player may draw more cards so as to have drawn that number of cards on their turn.  Does the same thing apply to Play X?  For example, if the current Play rule is for 1 card, and the player plays a Play 2 rule, does that very play get a second play on that turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T22:29:24.577" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T22:29:24.577" Title="Does Play X go into effect immediately?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9297" CreationDate="2012-11-18T06:43:22.843" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;online Fluxx FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Suppose the rule is Play 2 and for my second play I change the rules to Play 3. Do I play one more card or am I done because I played 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; All rules take effect immediately, so you would need to play 1 more card because the rules at that point had become Play 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T06:43:22.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8461" CreationDate="2012-11-18T09:39:55.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic requirement is to purchase the Switzerland map expansion as an in-app purchase and complete the achievements using that map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the achievement &lt;strong&gt;Chocolate Exporter&lt;/strong&gt; you must connect all four countries (France, Germany, Austria, and Italy). To complete this, priority number one is to actually connect the four countries. This will take most of your trains and many of your turns. Try and grab as many country tickets as you can, but don't push it, they're relatively high value. Avoid non-country tickets as you probably won't have enough trains to complete them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example board showing a victory with all four countries connected&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFb5h.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Winning with all four countries connected&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here is the achievement&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tVSk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chocolate Exporter achievement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the achievement &lt;strong&gt;Valley Commuter&lt;/strong&gt; you must not claim any tunnel routes on the Switzerland map. To complete this, grab as many tickets as you can that can be completed without a tunnel. It's relatively easy to connect most of the cities that don't require tunnels, at which point many of the tickets you will grab will be already completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example board showing a victory with no tunnel routes claimed&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ngyUN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Winning without using a tunnel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here is the achievement&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nAKQZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Valley Commuter achievement&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T09:39:55.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9300" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-18T10:14:43.980" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T10:14:43.980" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T10:14:43.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9301" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-18T10:14:43.980" Score="0" Body="Mage Knight is a board game played by 1 to 4 players. A player uses a Deed Deck full of actions that the player can take and competes against other players to gain fame. Each player may augment his deck with more powerful actions, spells, and artifacts during the game." OwnerUserId="1711" LastEditorUserId="1711" LastEditDate="2012-11-18T10:26:57.260" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T10:26:57.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8186" CreationDate="2012-11-18T12:05:44.480" Score="10" Body="&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy: Azathoth, Yog-Sothoth and Hastur&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Medium: Yig and Nyarlathotep&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hard: Shub-Niggurath, Ithaqua and Cthulhu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In Detail&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the Old One, once they've awakened they're very difficult to beat. Winning that way will always be tough! For that reason, &lt;strong&gt;I consider Azathoth to be one of the easiest to defeat&lt;/strong&gt;. Sure, when he awakens, &lt;code&gt;Azathoth destroys the world&lt;/code&gt; (which kind of sucks), but that's his only ability and with a huge 12 Doom required, the investigators have plenty of time to get their affairs in order and start going after Elder Signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yog-Sothoth is also not too tough&lt;/strong&gt;. Despite having a &lt;code&gt;[do X] or be devoured&lt;/code&gt; attack, his ability (which is an alternative awakening trigger) is related to the Other World cards. The Other World cards typically have good rewards, but you can definitely win the game without them, so it's not such an issue to just ignore them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Next is Hastur&lt;/strong&gt;, who also has an Other World-related ability; his adds Doom. The obvious strategy there is: stay away from Other World cards. He has a brutal attack which could lose 2 Sanity with each attack once he's awakened. Without clue tokens to defend with, most players won't last more than two rounds. What's more, his task can be very difficult since it gets tougher when there are more monsters on the board (and he generates five himself). If he awakens, he's very tough to defeat, but, like Azathoth, he has a long Doom track making him not such a threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yig and Nyarlathotep are more intermediate&lt;/strong&gt;. Both have short Doom tracks (8 and 9 respectively) so you don't really have much prep. time before you have to start going after the Elder Signs. Also, they both have strong monster-synthesis. Yig pulls out five monsters. With only 8 Doom, that means they come out fast. Nyarlathotep's ability adds the incredibly tough Mask Monsters to the pool. They keep coming back and don't give out trophies and when they land in the wrong place can cause a real headache. When these two awaken, they're not too tough to reduce Doom for, but Yig devours any player that doesn't lose a Common item, a Unique item AND a Spell (a high price if they can even afford it!) when he awakens and Nyarlathotep's attack can devour players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shub-Niggurath is the toughest monster-related Old One&lt;/strong&gt;. He pulls out seven monsters AND adds to the tasks for all of them. This can make some of them incredibly tough to defeat without items. Once he's awakened, his attacks can devour too, unless the players have trophies. Fortunately, with the number of monsters around, there should be plenty of trophies available by the time he comes out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ithaqua is very tough&lt;/strong&gt;. His ability punishes any player who uses a Unique item or a Spell. It's almost impossible to play the game ignoring those two, so this will definitely sting you at some point. Over the course of the game, this can sap you quite a lot, and make players need to spend turns to heal up rather than completing tasks. When he awakens, there's a 50% chance that each item will be lost, and when he attacks he reduces two Stamina at a time. This focus on just one of the two health stats makes him especially tough for the low-Stamina characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, appropriately enough, &lt;strong&gt;I consider Cthulhu to be one of the toughest&lt;/strong&gt;. It's a toss-up whether he's tougher than Ithaqua and/or Shub-Niggurath, but I'll list him last because he's earned the prestige (:P). Straight out of the gate, he reduces everyone's maximum Stamina and Sanity by one. He's incredibly tough to defeat if he awakens, since he heals during every attack and slowly does unhealable (and unpreventable) damage to all the players. Fortunately, he has a long Doom track (11) and does damage very slowly when awoken, but the reduced maximum to the two health stats is such a significant, unignorable disadvantage that it makes him much tougher than others with long Doom tracks like Azathoth and Hastur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-11-18T12:05:44.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2012-11-18T23:12:08.460" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;My favorite Dominion article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/07/30/building-the-first-game-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Building the &amp;quot;First Game&amp;quot; Engine&lt;/a&gt;, looks at this problem. The article works out some very good strategies, comparing them to a baseline of Big Money + Smithy. They run simulations to &amp;quot;prove&amp;quot; which one is best. A Village/Smithy/Province (V/S/P) strategy beats Big Money + Smithy a little more than half the time, and eventually they find a strategy that beats V/S/P a whoppping 89% of the time! Best of all, the article showcases the depth that a single set of 10 relatively simple kingdom cards can have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their best answer is complicated--surprising to some, given the common overestimation of Big Money + 1 or 2 other card strategies. It uses a Workshop to pick up early Villages and a Remodel, a Mine, several Smithies and eventually a Militia, with Markets and Cellars &amp;quot;sprinkled in&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it's not a definitive &amp;quot;best solution&amp;quot;, but it's several clear steps ahead of an already very competitive baseline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2023-10-01T16:26:42.207" LastActivityDate="2023-10-01T16:26:42.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8586" CreationDate="2012-11-19T04:47:48.140" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You always have the option of picking up all your pieces and starting again from the edge of the board. You would probably be able to fairly quickly conquer all regions controlled by your opponent's inactive race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, Page 6 - &quot;Abandoning A Region&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the player chooses to abandon all the Regions he previously&#xA;  occupied, his next conquest must follow the same rules as its First&#xA;  Conquest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T04:47:48.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-19T09:10:13.097" Score="10" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that I've got 10 cities connected in my network. I want to supply electricity to 6 of them and I've two power plants, each of them capable of supplying up to 5 cities. I've bought enough resources to use both power plants. Can I decide to use them to supply only 6 cities with electricity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, that would mean one plant would be using only 1/5 of its potential when it's perfectly possible to supply more cities with it - all 5 in this case. Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T22:32:29.907" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T13:46:24.987" Title="Can I decide not to use all the power of a plant in Power Grid?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9305" CreationDate="2012-11-19T11:03:57.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure - see page 5 of the rulebook, in the &quot;Earning Cash&quot; paragraph of the Phase 5: Bureaucracy  section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Earning cash: Starting with the first player, every player indicates&#xA;  how many cities in his network he wishes (and is able) to supply with&#xA;  electricity. He earns cash based on  the number of cities he powers as&#xA;  shown on the payment table. A player who does not supply any city gets&#xA;  10 Elektro (the guaranteed minimum). The players remove the  required&#xA;  resources from the power plants that produced electricity this round&#xA;  and place the used resources in the resource supply next to the board.&#xA;  A player may choose  (or only be able) to supply fewer cities than he&#xA;  has in his network. The player is paid only for the supplied cities.&#xA;  If a player produces more electricity than he has cities in his &#xA;  network, the surplus is wasted. Every player can choose how many and&#xA;  which of his power plants he uses, e.g. he does not have to supply all&#xA;  of his cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can very much power 6 cities with enough electricity for 10.  You just won't be able to store the extra electricity produced for future use (or save yourself any of the resources that it cost you to produce so much electricity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also the line &quot;a player may choose to supply fewer cities than he has in his network. The player is paid only for the supplied cities.&quot;  It seems pretty clear to me that you can undersupply your cities if you want, strange though such a course of action might seem!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-11-19T14:24:36.217" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T14:24:36.217" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9288" CreationDate="2012-11-19T12:16:54.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Little Wars is not by any stretch of the imagination likely to constitute a watertight ruleset (give it a break, it was the first of its kind!) so I think we have to apply a bit of common sense to ruling on this issue.  I quote from the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Moreover, in our desire to bring the game to a climax, we decided that&#xA;  instead of a fight to a finish we would fight to some determined&#xA;  point, and we found very good sport in supposing that the arrival of&#xA;  three men of one force upon the back line of the opponent's side of&#xA;  the country was of such strategic importance as to determine the&#xA;  battle. But this form of battle we have since largely abandoned in&#xA;  favour of the old fight to a finish again. We found it led to one type&#xA;  of battle only, a massed rush at the antagonist's line, and that our&#xA;  arrangements of time-limits and capture and so forth had eliminated&#xA;  most of the concluding drag upon the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to indicate that &quot;three men on the back line&quot; constitutes something of &quot;strategic importance&quot;.  In my mind, this suggests that the three soldiers have struggled through the enemy defences to capture the opposing HQ, or something of that sort.  It's hard to see three men reaching the back line only to be shot down as constituting that sort of victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd definitely be inclined to think that you have to have three men reach the back line alive to reasonably &quot;capture the enemy flag&quot;, or whatever else such a victory condition is meant to represent.  What's the alternative?  That covering the distance of the battlefield is in and of itself a victory condition?  That doesn't sound much like a &quot;Little War&quot; - more like some kind of running race :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T12:16:54.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9312" CreationDate="2012-11-19T16:23:44.047" Score="11" ViewCount="4235" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wonder &lt;strong&gt;Babylon (B)&lt;/strong&gt; has a special ability on step 2: You can play your last (7th) card instead of discarding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two questions cover if you'd have to play both cards in the 6th round or if you get a 7th round:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5140/3532&quot;&gt;Can a resource card be used more than once in a turn when allowed to build more than one structure?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/8039/3532&quot;&gt;How does Babylons&amp;#39;s second stage wonder work for building/discarding your last two cards?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder: Can you use this ability in &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; Ages (if built)? Or can you use it only in the Age you built the wonder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed that you can use it every Age, but then I noted that the special ability of &lt;strong&gt;Olympia (A)&lt;/strong&gt;, which can be used in all Ages, has &quot;I, II, III&quot; written on it. This clarification is missing on Bablyon's (B) second step, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T21:19:18.467" Title="Babylon (B), 2nd step: Can you use this ability only one time?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9309" CreationDate="2012-11-19T16:32:42.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm certain that you can use the ability in all Ages.  I would expect some kind of gloss such as &quot;Once in the game, you may...&quot; if this wasn't the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder why Olympia should have a special clarification though.  Perhaps it is to make it clearer that you can only build a free building once per Age (i.e. I, II, III to imply a maximum of three free buildings).  There would be no need to worry that a player might try to play their last card more than once per age, of course...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T16:32:42.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6195" CreationDate="2012-11-19T16:57:34.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well one deck idea I had was Lumber Mill. You run 4 Lost in the Woods and 4 Sands of Delibrium to do mill work since the deck will have 52 forests for Losts ability and enough mana for Sands ability to be effective. You would have a 65-70 percent chance of winning with it in standard.  The only decks that oppose against this deck would be Burn and Control but with RTR it is mostly aggro and it would work extremely well in the format for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3533" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T16:57:34.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9309" CreationDate="2012-11-19T17:25:50.000" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may use it once per age.&lt;/strong&gt;  The description of symbols page shows that symbol as (emphasis mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player can play the last card &lt;strong&gt;of each age&lt;/strong&gt; instead of discarding&#xA;  it. This card can be played by paying its cost, discarded to gain 3&#xA;  coins or used in the construction of his or her Wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T17:25:50.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8431" CreationDate="2012-11-19T18:20:56.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It usually depends on the whole hand, but the typical cases where you don't play third hand high relate to communication/entry issues like keeping the communication between the two hands, creating/denying entries, messing up the entry timing etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a classic example where the purpose is to deny an entry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;QJx&#xA;KQJTxx&#xA;xx&#xA;xx&#xA;          KT9xx&#xA;          Axx&#xA;          xxx&#xA;          xx&#xA;Axx&#xA;xx&#xA;AKxx&#xA;AKxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer (South) is in 3NT and partner leads a high spade and declarer plays the Q.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be a mistake to cover with the K. Declarer can then win the A, knock out the heart A, and enjoy overtricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you duck, you are giving declarer the spade trick early, and forcing him to use the entry to dummy, before hearts are established.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when declarer plays hearts, you can duck once and cut him off from dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, declarer made a mistake by playing the Q! He should play low, and win the A. Now he has a sure entry in the form of QJ of spades, which he can use, after he knocks out the heart A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of maintaining communication between the two hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;QJx&#xA;KQJTxx&#xA;xx&#xA;Qx&#xA;          AKTxx&#xA;          xxx&#xA;          xxx&#xA;          xx&#xA;xxx&#xA;xx&#xA;AKxx&#xA;AKJx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer (south) is in 3NT, and partner leads the spade 9 (probably from 9x). Declarer plays the Q from dummy and you must let it win. The purpose here is to ensure that partner has a spade (i.e. maintaining communication) when he gets in with the heart A. When he wins the heart A, he can lead a spade and you can cash your four spade tricks, setting the contract. Notice that this is quite similar to ducking plays by declarer where he needs to duck early in order to establish suit and maintain communication with the dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-11-19T18:20:56.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-19T23:50:13.930" Score="7" ViewCount="2800" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just played a 4 player game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6472/a-game-of-thrones&quot;&gt;Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt; and wondered a bit about the balance of house Baratheon.  Unlike in the 3 player game where all of the southern zones are excluded from the game and can't be conquered, in the 4 player game all of those zones can now be captured with a relatively small army - there are a number of forts in those zones and house Baratheon is in prime position to take pretty much all of them simply by extending their fleet south a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game we just played I was House Baratheon and I managed to win fairly comfortably on around turn 5, despite not really twigging onto the potential of this strategy for a couple of turns. I also felt kind of cheap and so didn't really use this strategy as much as I could have done - it seemed that a player properly exploiting this strategy would be at a massive advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should some of these zones be excluded as they are in the 3 player game, or is simply intended that the other 3 players be aware of this and work together to stop house Baratheon from managing to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T17:28:52.183" Title="Is house Baratheon meant to be able to expand this quickly?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9314" CreationDate="2012-11-20T09:35:17.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I can recall there are some completely out of bound territories in a 4-player game - I'm not sure you can make it right to the bottom of the map. Yes, I suppose it is easier for them to get a good start but really it is down to the other players pushing from the North and the West.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pace of the 4 player game is considerably faster so you can't afford to sit back and bide your time like in a full 6-player game. You will very quickly get to a point where someone (or a few people) are only one or two captures from victory. And it will stay like that for the rest of the game, with the balance finely shifting until someone manages to take that last castle or stronghold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2012-11-20T09:41:13.370" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T09:41:13.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9305" CreationDate="2012-11-20T13:46:24.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the answer is certainly &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, it is important to note that player order is determined by &lt;strong&gt;the number of cities in the player's network, not the number that were powered&lt;/strong&gt;. This misconception is the best reason I can imagine a player would want to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to &lt;strong&gt;fuel plants that cannot supply any city.&lt;/strong&gt; Although still rare, you might want to do this if you were able to go before a particular opponent in the next round and cause a scarcity of a critical resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-20T13:46:24.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9318" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-20T15:57:00.640" Score="5" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something in the rules?  One of the objectives references a Shoggoth, but there is no mention of one on any clue, mythos, or Keeper action card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read references to taking samples being involved in producing a Shoggoth, but can't find a reference to this anywhere in the rules or guides.&#xA;Help! Have I gone mad!?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3537" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T02:15:51.490" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T06:53:37.573" Title="Where does the Shoggoth come from in story 1B?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9318" CreationDate="2012-11-21T06:53:37.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Objective card for 1B reads (at the top, emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are 2 sample tokens on an altar &lt;strong&gt;reveal this objective and place a shoggoth&lt;/strong&gt; in the Ceremony Room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the keeper gets 2 samples using the &lt;strong&gt;Take a Sample&lt;/strong&gt; Keeper action and gets them back to the altar, the fun begins. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T06:53:37.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9324" CreationDate="2012-11-21T12:04:30.393" Score="8" ViewCount="1642" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game of Puerto Rico, I had the following situation. It was shipping time, and I had some corn and some indigo. There already was a ship half full of corn and an empty ship, too. My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I have to ship the corn? Or could I choose to send indigo on the empty ship instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3102" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T20:01:21.503" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T20:01:21.503" Title="Shipping goods on an empty vessel in Puerto Rico" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-21T12:18:00.180" Score="23" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;As much as I enjoy games like Monopoly or Settelers of Catan, I'm very concerned about the way these games affect players' concept of economy, as they demonstrate extremly capitalistic economical rules where the goal of each individual is to financially crush his/her friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that since competition is an important factor in many games, the use of capitalism is natural, but I'd anyway like to find out about any economical board games that demonstrate a different approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3540" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T13:19:48.267" Title="Is there any economical game which demonstrates social-democratic economy rather than capitalism?" Tags="|catan|recommendations|monopoly|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-10-10T23:02:58.480" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9321" CreationDate="2012-11-21T13:37:30.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may want to look at Indonesia. It's still outwardly capitalistic, but the concept of cooperation, mergers, and acquisitions gives you an alternative route to achieving your objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a shipping game, and you can play as a production company, a shipping company, or a combination of both. Production companies must to rely on shipping companies to deliver their goods to cities, and must pay fees for using their network. This means you might have to rely on other players depending on your strategy, and other players will have to depend on you for their shipping companies to work. This setup makes for a very dynamic distribution of wealth within the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mergers and acquisitions happen when companies start to combine on the board based on the division of land or shipping routes. This allows you to create bigger and more efficient shipping lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a nice rundown of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AACFSUTyWUE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the game on YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T16:25:37.707" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T16:25:37.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9320" CreationDate="2012-11-21T13:46:20.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that shipping takes place in several turns, going around the table starting with the player that chose Captain. &lt;strong&gt;On your turn, you must load a good if you are able.&lt;/strong&gt; This means that you could choose to load all your indigo on the empty ship (provided that the third ship is not already carrying indigo--there can be only one ship carrying each kind of good), &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; you could load as much of your corn as you can onto the half-full corn ship. On your next turn, once each other player has had an opportunity to load, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; load the other good, if possible. Only once all allowable loading has finished and all players have passed does the Captain phase end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for some reason, you wanted to not ship the corn, you would have to ship the indigo and hope that another player filled up the corn ship on their next opportunity. This happens more frequently when you have an expensive good like coffee or tobacco that you are hoping to trade rather than ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple points, summarized from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_4_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (p. 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each ship can only hold one kind of good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There can be only one ship of each kind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On your turn, if you have any loadable goods (with a legal space on any ship) you must choose one of those goods and load as much of it as possible. However, you are under no obligation to make the choice that will load the most barrels.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a choice of multiple empty ships, and enough of the good you are shipping to more than fill up the smallest, you must choose a ship that is large enough to load all the goods, if you can, or the largest empty ship otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are not obligated to use a wharf to ship if you happen to own one. (p. 9)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T13:46:20.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9320" CreationDate="2012-11-21T13:52:39.153" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under page 6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_4_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; explains all the rules for the Captain phase. Starting with the captain, each player in turn chooses a good that they can ship, and ships all goods of that kind or the the most that they can if there are not enough ship spaces available. Therefore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the corn boat wasn't full, you can choose to ship all the corn you own that would fit in the remaining spaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If neither of the remaining boats have any indigo on them, you can choose an empty boat to ship all the indigo that you own (you must choose the largest ship possible if you have more goods than will fit in the remaining empty boats).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loading/shipping rules&lt;/strong&gt;: When shipping, players must follow these rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each cargo ship will carry goods on only one kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players may not load goods on a cargo ship if goods of that same kind are on one of the other two cargo ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players may not load goods on a full ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a player's turn, he must load goods if he can. However, he may only load one kind of goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When a players loads good of a kind, he must load as many of that kind as he can. A player cannot hold back goods where there is space on a cargo ship carrying the kind of goods he has. If a player has a kind of goods that can be loaded on several empty ships, he must choose the ship where he can load the most goods, leaving none behind, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player has several kinds of goods that he can load, he may choose freely, which goods to load. He need not choose the goods that would allow him to load the most barrels.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T17:14:08.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9327" CreationDate="2012-11-21T16:52:59.343" Score="4" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to place a tile with a road next to a tile that has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a field on the side that matches up with my road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a field on the opposite side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the perfect time for a bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the already-placed tile is also entirely surrounded several layers deep. There is zero chance the bridge could ever connect to a road or other bridge on the far end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I still play the tile &amp;amp; bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-11-21T22:00:39.897" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T22:00:39.897" Title="Can I place a bridge that has no hope of completion?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9325" CreationDate="2012-11-21T17:01:21.827" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernjive.com/carcassonne/carcassonnefaq.htm&quot;&gt;Carcassonne FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: I have memorised all the tiles.  Am I allowed to play a tile when I know that by doing so I am creating a space which can never be filled, either because the required tile doesn't exist or because all the possible tiles have already been played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: &lt;strong&gt;Yes, that is permitted.&lt;/strong&gt; But be aware that, if by doing so, you have prevented your opponents from finishing a road, cloister or city (especially a Cathedral city!), they may seek revenge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I've had my fair share of putting pieces that make it impossible for other players to complete a large city they've invested several meeples into.  Bonus points if multiple players are fighting for the city and you make it impossible to complete, therefore cutting down their meeple supply and taking away precious points in the end!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T17:01:21.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9325" CreationDate="2012-11-21T17:02:25.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, 2 conditions must be met:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bridge must be built on the just placed tile or a tile adjacent to the just placed tile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both ends must lie on a field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mention is made of your scenario, so I'd say that you meet the conditions for playing a bridge and it doesn't matter that the bridge ends the road and can't be completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vote yes, you can play the tile and bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T17:02:25.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9325" CreationDate="2012-11-21T17:14:49.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why this should be considered problematic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Carcassonne bridge is just a sophisticated way of extending a road.  When extending a road in the normal way, there's no obligation to be planning (or even able) to finish the road.  I see no reason why that wouldn't hold for extending a road using a Bridge, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does seem strange to build a bridge that just ends in the middle of a field, with no possibility of continuation.  But no stranger than building a road that leads towards a &quot;gap&quot; that cannot be filled by any known tile, and that kind of thing happens all the time, even in the basic game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T17:14:49.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9234" CreationDate="2012-11-21T19:33:06.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't answer number one but there have been a number of articles published regarding number 2. When designing sets Wizards takes a serious look at the rarity of each card and its effect on limited. Its okay for a mythic rare to be completely, off the wall busted in limited (though they do try to avoid it) because the odds of pulling that card will be so low that it won't have much effect on any given limited tournament. Odds are even in a tournament with 16 people and 3 packs per person that card might not show up at all. The odds are even lower that that specific mythic will show up more than once and even lower still that the same person will be able to get it more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uncommons and especially commons on the other hand are a different animal. Its a common occurrence in drafts for players to have multiple copies of common and an uncommon cards and for multiple players to have copies of those cards thus the power level of these cards in relation to the rest of the limited environment needs to be more closely tested. Similarly because the bulk of all limited decks will be commons and uncommons wizards needs to make sure of a couple of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First they need to make sure that certain roles are filled by the commons and uncommons. This is the reason there will always be some form of common creature removal, common mana fixing (espescially true in a multi color oriented set) and likely some form of common draw and common non-creature removal. It is also one of the reasons that every set will contain common red burn, common blue draw, common green creature pump, common white weenie cards, common black discard ect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the set has a new theme or mechanic to it, as most sets do (I can't think of any in recent years that don't) Wizards also needs to make sure those themes and mechanics appear in some form or fashion at the lower rarities and that there is synergy among the cards at those rarities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastActivityDate="2012-11-21T19:33:06.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3638" CreationDate="2012-11-22T02:12:32.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, the Clarification for Halicarnassus makes this clear. You can play any card previously discarded, or any cards discarded the turn this wonder stage is built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clarification: this special action is taken at the end of the turn in which the stage is built. If players discard cards on that turn (for example, during the 6th turn of an age), the player can also choose from among those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T02:12:32.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-22T06:56:53.170" Score="9" ViewCount="4141" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the special power of the active race pertains to regions occupied by the race you have in decline, are you allowed to collect coins for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you control the Iron Dwarves which are in decline and occupy Mining regions. Your new Active race are Mining Drow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you collect extra coins for the Mining regions that the Iron Dwarves occupy even though it's the Drow special power that allows you to collect extra coins for occupied mining regions?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the relationship between races that are Active and In Decline?  Can your Active race occupy a region that's already occupied by a race you have in Decline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3544" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T20:59:00.260" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T20:59:00.260" Title="What (if any) is the relationship between your Active and In Decline race?" Tags="|small-world|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9331" CreationDate="2012-11-22T07:22:53.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only relationship (unless a specific power says otherwise) is that they both give money to you. They don't interact, so your Drow example would garner no extra income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you second question the answer is simple, you occupy the region the same way anyone else would, exterminate* the in decline race there and take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Sorry, I've been watching a lot of Doctor Who lately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T07:22:53.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9331" CreationDate="2012-11-22T07:36:17.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Races have only one Special Power badge associated with them. You will see it referred to as a &lt;strong&gt;Race and Special Power combo&lt;/strong&gt; throughout the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/su_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;. A Race does not share its Special Power with any other Race. Races in decline usually lose their Special Power badge. (excerpt from &lt;strong&gt;Entering In Decline&lt;/strong&gt;, page 8). The relationship between your Active and in-Decline races is that you score Victory coins for the regions both occupy at the end of each of your turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To do so, the player flips his current Race banner upside down, so that the duotone In Decline side becomes visible to all, and discards the Special Power badge that was associated with it as that Special Power badge is no longer in effect, unless dictated otherwise (e.g. Muddy, Reborn, Royal, etc…). The only relationship between your Active and In-Decline races is that you score Victory coins for both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Active Race cannot occupy your In-Decline race without conquering its Region (and discarding the in-decline race token). Nothing prevents you from attacking your in-decline race as noted on page 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: A player may choose to conquer a Region occupied by his own In Decline token, if he wishes to: He will lose the tokens, but might gain access to a Region that is more profitable for his new Active Race to occupy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T13:53:21.680" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T13:53:21.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9331" CreationDate="2012-11-22T07:39:04.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, powers cannot be shared between races.  They are specific to one race only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes though, powers carry on in to decline.  When you flip over your race/power tokens to go in to decline, it usually has symbols or graphics on the back that show what powers remain in decline.  If it is just blank then you have no decline powers (See backside of &lt;a href=&quot;http://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic1091203_md.jpg&quot;&gt;Dwarves, Ghouls, and Trolls race cards here&lt;/a&gt; (Courtesy of BoardGameGeek.com).  See also spirit power).  However, these decline advantages are still specific to that particular race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second question, how does an active race occupy a region owned by your race in decline?.. &#xA;Page 4, section 2, 2nd Column, says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may choose to conquer a Region occupied by&#xA;  his own In Decline token, if he wishes to: He will lose that&#xA;  token, but might gain access to a Region that is more&#xA;  profitable for his new Active Race tokens to occupy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only for your active race to occupy a region in control of your decline race.  The same rules apply as conquering any other region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastEditorUserId="3475" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T07:52:01.593" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T07:52:01.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9331" CreationDate="2012-11-22T11:42:46.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only relationships are that...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both pay you victory points/coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when your active race goes into decline, your prior in-decline race goes away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each race's special powers are explicitly only for the race they are on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Special Power badge gives a unique benefit to the race it&#xA;  is associated with. &lt;em&gt;(p. 8)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;The Races&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The list that follows details the benefit(s) conferred to each race;&#xA;  the number of matching Race tokens received when selecting&#xA;  this Race banner is indicated by the numerical value listed on&#xA;  the banner. &lt;em&gt;(p. 9)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;Special Powers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the description of Special Powers that follow, when we use&#xA;  the term &quot;you&quot; or &quot;your&quot;, we mean the Race tokens of your race&#xA;  associated with this Special Power. Unless explicitly stated&#xA;  otherwise, this usually excludes any token In Decline from your&#xA;  earlier race. &lt;em&gt;(p. 11)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the only power that affects another in-decline race in the base box is &quot;Spirit&quot; and then only by virtue of not eliminating it when the spirit race goes into decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T11:42:46.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-22T15:47:41.640" Score="7" ViewCount="4775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say a player casts a card that returns a permanent to the top of owner's library, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Banishment%20Decree&quot;&gt;Banishment Decree&lt;/a&gt;, and the targeted creature card he chooses has two Auras enchanting it.  Where do the Aura enchantments go, to the players hand, graveyard or library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3545" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T21:01:03.953" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T08:11:09.660" Title="Where do Auras go when a card is put on top of its owner's library?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9336" CreationDate="2012-11-22T16:31:38.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming when you say 'Enchantment' you specifically mean 'Aura', they are sent to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bold is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, &lt;strong&gt;the object it was attached to no longer exists&lt;/strong&gt;, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner's graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some popular cards, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angelic%20Destiny&quot;&gt;Angelic Destiny&lt;/a&gt;, may appear to violate this rule. There are a number of cards that have triggers that will pop the Aura out of the graveyard and send it to your hand. Many players will take the shortcut of simply taking the card from the battlefield to their hand instead of taking the intermediate step of putting it in the graveyard. If there's any confusion about such a short cut, make sure to ask your opponent or call a judge, because you &lt;em&gt;do have an opportunity to respond&lt;/em&gt; before the trigger resolves while the card is still in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you were referring to another enchantment type you'll have to clarify. As far as I'm aware, only Auras can attach to creatures and other permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T21:04:44.733" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T21:04:44.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9336" CreationDate="2012-11-22T16:47:16.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an object ceases to exist, and creatures can only exist on the battlefield, any Auras attached to the creature are placed in their owner's graveyard as a state-based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T17:56:45.933" LastActivityDate="2012-11-22T17:56:45.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9345" CreationDate="2012-11-22T17:03:26.070" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toward the end, the shape of opponents' hands can be read by &quot;counting&quot; (playing out two or three suits and inferring the shape of the remaining one(s)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning, one looks for more subtle clues. If a lead is fourth best, one might look in hand or dummy for lower cards to see if the leader might have a fifth or sixth. If opener has bid three suits they are likely to have a singleton or void in the fourth. If one defender has bid they probably have the bulk of the defenders' points; if neither has bid, the points are (probably) evenly split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are other ways to draw inferences about opponents' hands after hearing the bidding, and seeing one or two rounds of play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-22T21:04:06.950" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T15:08:33.540" Title="What are ways to &quot;read&quot; the shape of your opponents' hands early on?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9336" CreationDate="2012-11-22T18:29:49.423" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be under the misconception that Auras follow the permanent to which they are attached to the graveyard. That's not the case. It's just a coincidence that both end up in the same place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an object changes zone (e.g. goes from the battlefield to the graveyard), it becomes a brand new object. The original object ceases to exist, and a new one is created in the new zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter whether the enchanted permanent goes to the graveyard or to the player's library, the object the Aura was enchanting has ceased to exist. The game doesn't tolerate that since Auras are suppose to enchant something, so it sends the Aura to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, &lt;strong&gt;the object it was attached to no longer exists&lt;/strong&gt;, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was an Equipment or Fortification instead, it would remain on the battlefield unattached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5p If an Equipment or Fortification is attached to an illegal permanent, it becomes unattached from that permanent. It remains on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T08:11:09.660" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T08:11:09.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9344" CreationDate="2012-11-22T22:39:22.520" Score="15" ViewCount="52350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've realised that, when playing Pokémon, the trick to winning is to evolve your Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes a bit of luck, in that you have to have the first level Pokemon on the table, then you have to have drawn its corresponding first evolve card, and then you have to have drawn its second evolve card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I want to create the ultimate Pokémon deck, I'd simply buy 5 water type decks, then assemble a deck containing 25 Totodiles, 10 Croconaws and 10 Feraligatrs. It would make for a less interesting game, but I'm guaranteed to evolve my Pokémon, and my opponent doesn't have a chance unless he does the same thing I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't be the first person to have thought of this. Is there an official rule specifying the maximum number of any one Pokémon in your deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-01-18T03:43:09.077" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T08:39:57.027" Title="What is the maximum allowed number of repeats in a Pokémon deck?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9341" CreationDate="2012-11-22T23:57:49.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is four cards of each name, for a sensible deck. This is similar to the equivalent rule for Magic: The Gathering. Quoting from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warpcore.org/~chairmankaga/pokemon/rulebook.pdf&quot;&gt;unofficial rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;100.2 A deck for Constructed Play can include a total of only four copies of any card with the same name. Basic Energy cards are an&#xA;  exception to this rule. Decks can include any number of Basic Energy&#xA;  cards. Decks for Limited Play can include any number of cards with the&#xA;  same name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find this four card ruling repeated in many places on the internet, but definitive rules for Pokemon are scattered among the many theme decks, so it's a bit of a pain to find an official ruling. The rulebook I've quoted here, while not official, is reviewed by tournament judges and the Pokemon TCG community as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-23T00:04:01.477" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T00:04:01.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9341" CreationDate="2012-11-23T04:41:43.060" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/play-pokemon/play-pokemon-tournaments/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official website&lt;/a&gt; does have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://assets10.pokemon.com/assets/cms/pdf/op/tournaments/2013/Pokemon_Official_Tournament_Formats.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;strong&gt;maximum limit for any card is 4&lt;/strong&gt;, unless the format restricts the card further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.1 Constructed&lt;/strong&gt; - In a Constructed event, players arrive at the tournament with a 60-card deck. The cards used to build the deck come from each player's personal collection. Decks &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;may not contain more than 4 copies of a single card&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, as defined by the card's English title, with the standard exception for basic Energy cards. Some cards may have additional construction restrictions on them, which are treated as exceptions to the 4-copy rule. Matches are played for 6 Prize cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2017-01-17T20:08:35.673" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T20:08:35.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9339" CreationDate="2012-11-23T15:08:33.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The opening lead often gives you some hints.  Ask yourself why LHO chose to lead that suit and that card.  You can also get information from later leads if the opponents win tricks early.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opening lead is a high spot against a suit contract, there is a good chance it is a singleton or a doubleton.  If LHO is leading RHO's bid suit, is it a high, middle, or low card?  The answer can frequently help you determine the distribution of the suit.  If LHO leads low in a random suit, perhaps he is trying to avoid leading from honors in the other suits.  Against NT, there is a good chance that the suit lead by LHO is his strongest (unless it is RHO's suit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ironically, you usually get more information from leads by strong opponents than leads by weak opponents, whose leads are a lot more random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T15:08:33.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2012-11-23T16:16:50.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds a little bit like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shove_ha%27penny&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shove Ha'penny.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only cooler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3549" LastActivityDate="2012-11-23T16:16:50.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9350" CreationDate="2012-11-23T17:27:29.720" Score="12" ViewCount="4173" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules it is recommended for the first games to use side A of the wonders only. After these first games (if I understand the rules correctly) players play the side that is &lt;em&gt;at the top&lt;/em&gt; of the wonder card they draw. So some would play side A and some side B (probably). This question discusses &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5310/are-the-a-sides-and-b-sides-of-the-wonder-boards-really-balanced&quot;&gt;if the two sides are balanced&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if this is really the best way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see several possibilities how to handle which side to play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;randomly drawn wonder cards, but all players use side A (recommended for the first games)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;randomly drawn wonder cards, but all players use side B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;randomly drawn wonder cards, all players use the side that is at the top when the card is revealed (the normal rule)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;randomly drawn wonder cards, all players use the side they like more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like variant 4 would be the best (each player may select the side) for a casual playing group, as otherwise some side A players might feel that the side B players have an &quot;unfair&quot; advantage (as the special abilites on B &lt;em&gt;seem&lt;/em&gt; to be better). Would it be problematic/unbalanced to use variant 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the side get selected in tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The rules also allow that players (if all agree) can choose which &lt;em&gt;wonder&lt;/em&gt; to play. In this case, variant 4 is probably used (variants 1 and 2 would be possible, too), while variant 3 would be rather pointless (you'd select a wonder yourself but randomize which side to play). Anyhow, this question is about randomly chosen wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2023-09-21T13:12:16.973" Title="Rules to decide which wonder side (A or B) to play in 7 Wonders?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9349" CreationDate="2012-11-23T19:42:18.973" Score="5" ViewCount="5005" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scene I envision is that I have a graveyard full of humans, one of which is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt;. I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239993&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel of Glory's Rise&lt;/a&gt; and put all my humans from my graveyard and onto the battlefield, and when the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield I target my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239993&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel of Glory's Rise&lt;/a&gt; to be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does that mean that when the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; who is holding my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239993&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel in Glory&lt;/a&gt; goes to the graveyard, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239993&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel of Glory's Rise&lt;/a&gt; comes onto the battlefield and thereby returns &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; to the battlefield again, triggering his ability to exile a target creature anew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how does spells like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; effect that Fiend Hunter? If I used Cloudshift on the Fiend Hunter that was keeping my Angel of Glory's Rise in exile, would order of events look like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cloudshift targets Fiend Hunter&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fiend hunter leaves battlefield - Angel of Glory's Rise returns from exile&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Angel of Glory's Rise &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; ability triggers &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fiend hunter enters battlefield - Angel of Glory's Rise goes to exile&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would using Cloudshift not trigger the Fiend Hunter's &quot;leaves the battlefield&quot; ability, exiling my Angel of Glory's Rise forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, what if I had two or more &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262861&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt; that entered the battlefield from the graveyard due to the Angel of Glory's Rise's &quot;enter battlefield&quot; ability? Do they both come into play at the same time, so that both of them get a +1/+1 counter because they are both &quot;another Human&quot; to one another, or do they enter the battlefield one at a time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3550" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-24T03:57:47.843" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T22:30:34.333" Title="Does a Angel of Glory's Rise and a Fiend Hunter combo work like I think it does?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9348" CreationDate="2012-11-23T21:32:07.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first part of your combo does work. When the Fiend Hunter enters the battlefield, he can exile the Angel of Glory, and when the Fiend Hunter goes to the graveyard, he will already be there when the Angel returns, which allows you to repeat that combo indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Cloudshift on Fiend Hunter is another matter. When the Hunter leaves the battlefield with the Angel exiled, he will indeed trigger the return of the Angel. However, the Hunter leaving and returning to the battlefield are all part of Cloudshift's resolution, so by the time the Hunter returns and you get to choose another creature to exile, the return of the Angel is still on the stack and is not yet back from its exile. You will have to choose another creature entirely, and if you don't happen to have a second Angel on the battlefield, the combo will end with the resolution of Cloudshift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Champion of the Parish question: The creatures enter the battlefield simultaneously. Creatures that enter the battlefield at the same time see each other enter the battlefield, so a Champion's triggered ability will trigger for each other Human entering the battlefield at the same time. For example, if you have 5 humans in the graveyard, and 2 of them are Champions, then each Champion's ability will trigger four times, so each would get a total of 4 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-24T04:01:45.927" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T04:01:45.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9347" CreationDate="2012-11-24T01:42:38.237" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tricky one. The rulebook makes seems to specify option #3 pretty specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuffle the 7 Wonder cards, face down, and hand one to each player. The card &lt;strong&gt;and its facing&lt;/strong&gt; determine the Wonders board given to each player, as well as the side to be used during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I demoed the Leaders expansion from Asmodee at a convention, option #4 was used; the cards were dealt randomly but players were allowed to choose their own sides. This was the first I had seen this rule, but it seemed to work well and I immediately started using it in casual games as well. Not only do players get to choose the board they like better, but there's no worry about making sure to maintain the orientation on the Wonder card when revealing it. I encountered the same rule at GenCon 2012, when I played (with little success, sadly) in a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T01:42:38.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9321" CreationDate="2012-11-24T06:49:20.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since games usually need a winner, &lt;em&gt;crushing&lt;/em&gt; your opponent is often just part of the process.  This is why I sometimes like to play cooperative games. My favorite is currently &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pandemic_%28game%29&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;, but it is not an economic game like Monopoly/Catan (Pandemic's economic component consists mostly of making efficient use of limited &lt;em&gt;actions&lt;/em&gt; and limited &lt;em&gt;turns&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3551" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T06:49:20.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9321" CreationDate="2012-11-24T16:16:11.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico is an economic game but it's hardly purely capitalistic.  While you can trade goods for money, you get at least half if not more of your victory points by shipping goods, and each type of good is worth one victory point regardless of value.  However, I'm not sure what you mean when you say Catan is capitalist.  It's a pre-capitalist barter economy with no money.  You use raw materials to build settlements and roads, and there is no mention of leveraging worker's labor to maximize your personal wealth.  Perhaps you are conflating capitlism with societal /economic competition, which is not remotely the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3552" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T16:16:11.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2012-11-24T16:35:25.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two handicap rules I play with to even out skill levels with kids (who otherwise know how to play).  The first is that the experienced player(s) lose all of the cards they invested if a tunnel fails to be completed (as opposed to the cards returning to the players hand).  The second is to not let station placement count against the kids' scores, so they always get that 12 point bonus as though non stations had been placed.  Another variant I have thought of but haven't had to try is to simply let kids score their trains as though the route was one step higher.  So, a 2 segment route would be worth 4 points, for example.  This compensates for kids' tendency to place too many small routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3552" LastActivityDate="2012-11-24T16:35:25.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3968" CreationDate="2012-11-24T22:04:12.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very simply put, your reasoning is basically right, and you are not alone thinking like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the rule still exist?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn/scoreRubber.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Contract Bridge League pages&lt;/a&gt; confirm my own personal experience that &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rubber bridge&lt;/a&gt; players often, I'd say always, choose to ignore the rule today (and why):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As there is no skill in scoring for honors,&#xA;  players often agree to play without the honor bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duplicate_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;duplicate bridge&lt;/a&gt;, which is the nearly exclusive form of bridge seen in tournaments and clubs, this scoring rule is non-existent.  Note also that in duplicate bridge, scoring rules purely based on hands dealt as opposed to player actions, would have no effect on the ultimate outcome.  They would just cancel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where did the rule come from?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game you know as (contract) bridge is based on older forms of bridge, and those on a group of card games known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/whist/whist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;whist&lt;/a&gt;.  Notice especially the 17th century variant of whist aptly called &lt;a href=&quot;http://jducoeur.org/game-hist/game-recon-ruff-and-honours.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ruff and Honours&lt;/a&gt;.  As you can see from the references, the spirit of this rule is several times older than that of contract bridge, a 20th century invention with marked emphasis on gradual elimination of chance from the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of removal of the honours scoring rule was also gradual, and the range of situations where the bonus can be awarded has been considerably reduced between &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auction_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;auction bridge&lt;/a&gt; and your version of contract bridge rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How the game is affected if you do use the rule?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, honors scoring is not purely based on hands dealt and a modest degree of skill is probably still necessary to cash in the extra points.  While you do NOT need to be the declarer to obtain this bonus, you always need to control the suit of the contract.  The rule could therefore bring about some bidding challenges, for example when all the honours in a suit occur in one hand, and when that hand is otherwise fairly weak and misfit to the partner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3555" LastEditorUserId="3555" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T17:33:47.280" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T17:33:47.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2768" CreationDate="2012-11-25T02:00:56.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just encountered this - using the 'shuffle' as a pure shuffle.  Our crew feels that ensuring it isn't top or bottom is essentially 'looking.'  As a result, we ended up having a player draw 2 epidemics during their draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting outcome - since the first epidemic cleared the infection discard during the intensify phase, it forced the city where the 2nd epidemic occurred to have an outbreak during the infector phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While painful, we decided to allow this possibility.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3556" LastEditorUserId="3556" LastEditDate="2012-11-25T18:07:23.547" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T18:07:23.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9321" CreationDate="2012-11-25T18:39:40.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like most other decisions in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/88513/chicken-caesar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chicken caesar&lt;/a&gt;, the tax rate is determined in a democratic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T18:39:40.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3534" CreationDate="2012-11-25T21:31:25.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize you are searching for a human strategy, but it might be useful to look at this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;ftp://cs.istu.ru/public/docs/other/_Unsorted/new/books.pdox.net/Math/MSRI@2520Volumes/Games@2520of@2520No@2520Chance/gasser.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ftp://cs.istu.ru/public/docs/other/_Unsorted/new/books.pdox.net/Math/MSRI@2520Volumes/Games@2520of@2520No@2520Chance/gasser.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem was solved by Ralph Gasser for an AI player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3560" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T21:31:25.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9348" CreationDate="2012-11-25T21:38:23.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does that mean that when the Fiend Hunter who is holding my Angel in Glory goes to the graveyard, the Angel of Glory's Rise comes onto the battlefield and thereby returns Fiend Hunter to the battlefield again, triggering his ability to exile a target creature anew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yep, that's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how does spells like Cloudshift effect that Fiend Hunter? If I used Cloudshift on the Fiend Hunter that was keeping my Angel of Glory's Rise in exile, would order of events look like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cloudshift targets Fiend Hunter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fiend hunter leaves battlefield - Angel of Glory's Rise returns from exile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Angel of Glory's Rise &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; ability triggers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Fiend hunter enters battlefield - Angel of Glory's Rise goes to exile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would using Cloudshift not trigger the Fiend Hunter's &amp;quot;leaves the battlefield&amp;quot; ability, exiling my Angel of Glory's Rise forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudshift does make the Fiend Hunter leave the battlefield, so the ability does trigger. But you've got the order entirely wrong, because you're ignoring the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what actually happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cloudshift exiles Fiend Hunter (&amp;quot;leaves the battlefield&amp;quot; ability triggers and is queued to appear on the stack), then immediately returns Fiend Hunter to the battlefield (&amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; ability triggers and is queued to appear on the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Queued&amp;quot; triggered abilities are placed on the stack, in APNAP order. Since you control both abilities, you get to choose which order they go on the stack. Suppose you put the &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; triggered ability on first and then the &amp;quot;leaves the battlefield&amp;quot; triggered ability on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players have a chance to play instants and abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The top thing on the stack, the &amp;quot;leaves the battlefield&amp;quot; ability, resolves. This returns Angel of Glory's Rise to play. (If you had stacked the abilities in the other order, you would instead exile the creature targeted by the other ability at this point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The top thing on the stack, the &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; ability, resolves. This lets you exile the creature targeted by that ability. (If you had stacked the abilities in the other order, you would instead return Angel of Glory's Rise to play at this point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, what if I had two or more Champion of the Parish that entered the battlefield from the graveyard due to the Angel of Glory's Rise's &amp;quot;enter battlefield&amp;quot; ability? Do they both come into play at the same time, so that both of them get a +1/+1 counter because they are both &amp;quot;another Human&amp;quot; to one another, or do they enter the battlefield one at a time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They enter at the same time, so they both see each other. Whenever an effect says &amp;quot;return all X to the battlefield&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;put all X somewhere&amp;quot; or something like that, you do it for all of them at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-25T22:30:34.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5091" CreationDate="2012-11-26T07:25:56.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we play with all the expansions, last of which is chocolate, we deal out a carrot to each player at the start. We also make roaming red runs (ebola, orp, mystery urn, etc) turn based and not round, makes it faster. usually dealing out carrots at the beginning speeds it up a bunch and not allowing players to steal a carrot until a player has more than the original dealt ones. Also if you feel the game is laying too long, implement a rule at that time to force all choose a carrot cards to be market only, not stolen. Our games usually last 2-3 hours that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3562" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T07:25:56.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9361" CreationDate="2012-11-26T13:05:59.643" Score="4" ViewCount="1829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/magic-2013-set-review-green/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; recently about the M 2013 core set and it states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Well, everyone knows creature enchantments aren’t playable...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why exactly creature enchantments aren't playable? I'm talking about the context of Constructed games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T19:06:02.527" Title="Why creature enchantments aren't playable?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9360" CreationDate="2012-11-26T13:15:28.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple, no-frills answer: creature enchantments aren't generally playable because they offer your opponent an easy 2-for-1 (or better, if you're the sort of person who likes to load creatures up with multiple Auras...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any removal spell that would have previously just taken out your creature now takes out all enchantments on that creature too, giving your opponent an easy route to significant card advantage.  Not a situation you want to enter into lightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The OP asked in the comments about Totem Armor.  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/85&quot;&gt;this article by Mark Rosewater&lt;/a&gt;, in which he says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The idea behind totem armor was to offset the inherent card&#xA;  disadvantage of Auras. Normally when you play an Aura on a creature&#xA;  you have the vulnerability of being &quot;two-for-oned&quot;—that is, your&#xA;  opponent can spend one card (a kill spell) to make you lose two cards&#xA;  (your creature and your Aura). Totem armor prevents the two-for-one&#xA;  because it saves your creature. The Aura acts as a safety net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Straight from the horse's mouth there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T13:25:22.480" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T13:25:22.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9365" CreationDate="2012-11-26T13:58:43.420" Score="2" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Havengul%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Havengul Vampire&lt;/a&gt;, and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Young Wolf&lt;/a&gt; which has a +1/+1 counter on it so it is 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if they deal damage to each other, for example during combat? Will the vampire die or not? I think that the vampire will die since at the time he would receive the +1/+1 counter for killing the wolf he is already in the graveyard. Is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:56:09.793" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:56:09.793" Title="Will a Havengul Vampire get its +1/+1 counter for killing a creature and prevent it from dying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9366" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:07:13.830" Score="18" ViewCount="48689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Magic: the Gathering since the days of Onslaught and Mirrodin, and I would like to try to catch back up. Since all my cards are quite dated now, I may be more interested in formats other than the most up-to-date one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than ask what is &lt;em&gt;currently&lt;/em&gt; legal in various formats (since that is likely too localized), I would rather pose the question of &lt;em&gt;how can I tell which sets/cards are legal in each format&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T16:59:21.400" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T22:32:14.507" Title="How can I tell which cards or sets are currently legal in various formats?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9368" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:09:13.380" Score="2" ViewCount="428" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played Last Night On Earth yesterday and got a little confused as to whether or not the Signal Flare was a gun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had Father Joseph in the Gun Shop and I thought that the Signal Flare was a gun (it looks like a gun, you fire it) which meant that I could pick it up but not use it. My opponent thought it was not a gun which meant I'd have to go to the Airplane Hanger to pick it up, but Father Joseph could use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T14:26:42.790" Title="Is the Signal Flare a gun?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:09:45.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Wolf dies the Vampire's ability will trigger and be placed on the stack.  Unfortunately, by the time you get round to resolving it, the Vampire will be in the graveyard  and unable to have a +1/+1 counter placed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T14:09:45.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9363" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:15:16.727" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would refer you to the following page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/formats&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/formats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you'll find everything you need there!  Both lists of legal sets for each format, and lists of individual cards that are banned or restricted in those formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T00:34:23.083" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T00:34:23.083" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9369" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:18:52.193" Score="1" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;Father Joseph has the Strength of Spirit ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;take a wound to cancel any Zombie Card on the roll of 3+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that Father Joseph only takes a wound if the roll is successful, or does he still take a wound if the roll fails?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T14:28:58.937" Title="Does Father Joseph take a wound if Strength of Spirit fails?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9364" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:26:42.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last Night on Earth guns should say &quot;Item - Ranged Weapon - Gun&quot; beneath the picture, and also  have a little red icon of a gun in the top right corner of the text box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have the card to hand, but my understanding of Signal Flare is that it doesn't conform to the above and isn't a gun (despite the obvious superficial similarities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a bit strange that a priest would have moral compunctions about using a signal flare in any case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T14:26:42.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9367" CreationDate="2012-11-26T14:28:58.937" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Father Joseph takes the wound first, and then rolls to try and cancel the Zombie card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Ability%3aStrength_of_Spirit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the FAQ, here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q11: How does Father Joseph’s Strength of Spirit ability work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A11: Strength of Spirit may be used at any time to attempt to Cancel a&#xA;  Zombie Card being played or that ‘Remains in Play’. Father Joseph&#xA;  first takes a wound and then rolls to cancel the Zombie Card on the&#xA;  roll of 3+. He may use this ability even if doing so will take his&#xA;  last wound, killing him (you are still allowed to roll to see if the&#xA;  card is cancelled). He may also use this ability multiple times to try&#xA;  and cancel the same card (assuming he failed the first time by rolling&#xA;  a 1 or 2). He may even use this ability during a Fight. This is&#xA;  especially useful if he is about to lose a Fight and take his last&#xA;  wound. He may instead, voluntarily take his last wound to try and&#xA;  cancel an existing Zombie Card (sort of a ‘with his last breath’&#xA;  notion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T14:28:58.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2012-11-26T16:38:12.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think it is worth extending the answers already here,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a big fan of RTFG, I do not think there is low or no interaction with other players.  The thing is, that after the learning curve has been surpassed (it is a bit extended) you will find yourself responding to opponent actions or forcing him to do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The model simply doesn't feature card taking (until extensions) nor a visible pool of card that players compete for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the game states, it is called Race For the Galaxy, thus you are all racing to build a better empire.  To anyone reading this, if you are a new player: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever thought that &lt;strong&gt;&quot;the game is too fast&quot; or &quot;I was about to play this or that card&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt; That's precisely the point, you shouldn't look at your hand only and devise the most point combo, but rather look at your hand and your opponent's tableu: that's the race condition right there; any advantage in developping, settling, trade, etc may give him the edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally about the &lt;strong&gt;takeovers&lt;/strong&gt;, I will add that while it is true that they allow for direct interaction, they are used rarely at least in all the games I've seen, simply because there's always an alternative to them. Even if there are takeovers it doesn't happen more than 1 or twice in a 4+ players game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T16:38:12.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-26T16:50:53.707" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ran across a critique of the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/397/disk-wars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diskwars&lt;/a&gt; that I did not quite follow.&#xA;&quot;There was an easy way to basically teleport a good unit to the far side of the battlefield, then decapitate the enemy force on their starting line.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What creatures/spells make this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1977" LastEditorUserId="1977" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T15:55:44.137" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T10:17:51.250" Title="How do I decapitate the enemy force?" Tags="|diskwars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2070" CreationDate="2012-11-26T17:11:18.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'd like to&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give a highlight even though all was covered nicely by rrenaud: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, this is a race; your score depends on the opponents too! This means that if you are far in the game with no 6-cost devs it may have already been a winning decision&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To be realistic, you will need to have consumption and prestige/goals if playing with expansions to compensate for the lack of 6 developments. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Identify the factors that will allow for the previous: cards that consume high, cards that will give you a flow of new cards every round.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last, relying on only expensive military planets statistically fails, because their score will just match up with the opponent's 6 development while not giving the crucial powers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing many many times, I've seen and won games without 6-cost developments, but I have to say that's very unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="3365" LastEditDate="2013-03-26T07:30:08.433" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T07:30:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6769" CreationDate="2012-11-26T17:55:08.287" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is an excellent question!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a board game I love but never play now since me and my friends, all working, can never get the 50 hours needed to finish it :) (ok, it's more like 8 hours no kiddin') if we don't simplify the rules and/or shorten the terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have successfully used gentlemen's agreeements, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shortened victory conditions (classic, revised, 1942, anniversary edition and 1940s):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We use the shortest victory conditions, always. It still takes many hours&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capital conditions: If a capital falls; the game is over even if it can be retaken. In practice that is a game winner anyways. I am sure there can be exceptions, but not if you play aware of that condition. It affects mostly the crucial Russia/Germany stalemate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helps a lot since you may reach a point at which Germany has good chance of taking Moscow in two rounds, or die so you can simply resolve only the moves and battles that affect that and call it a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Japanese stalemate settlement (classic, revised, 1942, anniversary edition and 1940s):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Our housee rule is: If japan has been wiped out from the mainland and has lost its fleet while there are at least scattered Allied ships in the Pacific, give all VP cities to the Allies and check if game is over.  Taking Tokyo is a 6 round affair at this point, that takes hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Europe and Pacific 1940:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Germany: if USSR is advancing while the Atlantic has protected Allied transports unloading troops in Europe for two rounds or more, we call it a game. (Even if Italy is huge, because it failed to counter the previous.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For Japan: If Japan land troops are both in Caucasus and eastern Russia (3-4 territories) while Japan holds the biggest Pacific fleet, we call it a game as well. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are new or almost new to the game:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I think turn time limit helps a lot. Agree on one, just make sure Germany and Japan have a bit higher limit than the allies&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you will play often, play at least 3 games of limited rounds (for instance, 3). Discuss who would win and why. For games like 1942 or Revised this helps a lot because you will better understand what can be achieved at that round and will have an idea about how long your games will take.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;And the golden house-rule: Accept the dice, be a gentleman.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agree on these kinds of conditions when the game starts and accept that the game is over at any of these points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am serious on this, because most games finish with a bitter taste of no conclusion with statements like &quot;but I could still attack here and win that and...&quot; which mostly leads to hours of playing to reach the same apparant result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not surprisingly there are these A&amp;amp;A chess and &quot;Low luck&quot; (tripleA videogame) housee rules that to me are based on this bitterness. The game is not designed for that, thus making the game somewhat scripted after a while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T08:39:54.863" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T08:39:54.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9360" CreationDate="2012-11-26T19:06:02.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The line you quote was, in that review, actually parodying the 'groupthink' that says that enchantments are never playable because of the risk of two-for-ones that thesunneversets's answer describes.  While this is a good perspective to have in general, every card has to be evaluated on its own merits, and it's not uncommon for specific enchantments to offer so much power (or, notably, for the hexproof creatures available to be good enough) that they override this rule.  Rancor itself is an exception because it mitigates the card-disadvantage problem by going back to hand for the next creature, making it more like an equipment than an enchantment in many ways; Moldervine Cloak served a similar role in a few decks from the original Ravnica-era standard; and just a year ago Angelic Destiny was a regular player in Blue-White aggro decks, as the perfect way of suiting up a Geist of St. Traft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T19:06:02.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="75" CreationDate="2012-11-26T20:05:00.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this thing of skill in games tends to be a little of too much pride and taking the game a bit more serious than it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I think it's best just to take a high risk once in a while if you think that 'luck' is not going your way; if you loose laugh about it and enjoy the game :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Onto the house rules to modify results:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Die result for resources tend not to surprise much because you roll plenty of them; you may have a crazy roll once but if you complete the game it may have not decided it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The die results that have HUGE variance are the card rolls, where you roll N dice with N being the number of players. That's because you don't roll many of this (4 sets per game?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance if you are 4 players one of you may buy this kind of cards two times in a row and roll 6,1,2,3 then 5,1,2,2.&#xA;Or better consider 6,5,1,2 and then 6,5,2,2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seriously affects the game because one or two players get two tools or agriculture level in a row while the other players get one resource. In particular the second player in the later case gets an edge over the other two players for free! (the first player is the one who buys the card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To lower the variance we have sometimes agreed that in 4 players game the person who buys the card rerolls if &lt;strong&gt;two pairs of the result have a difference  of 3 or more&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you roll 6,6,3,3 = reroll because = &gt; 6 - 3 = 3 , 6 -3 = 3.&#xA;If you roll 6,6,3,4 = don't reroll because =&gt; 6 -3 = 3 , 6 -4 = 2.&#xA;6,5,1,2 = reroll =&gt; 6 - 2 = 4 , 5 -1 = 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way the card MAY STILL be decisive, but with less likeliness.&#xA;But I have to say that for our games it's still a minor thing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T20:05:00.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9383" CreationDate="2012-11-26T20:20:26.477" Score="7" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just about to order Once Upon a Time with the extra blank cards pack, when I found out that a third edition of the game had just been released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the card backs the same, so I can mix third-edition Once Upon a Time with the second-edition blank cards pack? I can't seem to find a third-edition blank cards pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3566" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:10:26.260" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:10:26.260" Title="Are the card backs identical for Once Upon a Time 2nd and 3rd editions?" Tags="|edition-comparison|once-upon-a-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8929" CreationDate="2012-11-26T20:37:23.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wow I love this site..&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I find someone asking about the same deal I had with this game! A rather unknown game which is one of my favorites. Anyways I contribute with my bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The chaos.. I'm lost!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bluffing is heavy in this game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The later stage of the game is very chaothic with the disasters and suspicions. You naturally have a lot of uncertainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tactic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is to play with this uncertainty, with this three guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aim to be the less confused player. I mean, face it you will be confused&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep one or two counters for that point of the game when the obvious may become the inevitable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch the discarded pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the first, really.. I love this game: If you bluff your oponents bluff. It's not enough to know vicory conditions of other characters; so keep your bluff up, eventually one player will be very suspicious; it should be you if you want to and not bee you if you don't want to. Apply to others ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second I will just give an example:  There some cards that take money from another player. You may be tempted to play it early in the game to get some cash.. but do you really need that cash right away?  Bear in mind that this is one of the few counters to Chrysoprase who needs to mint and who becomes obvious at some point of the game. If you use this card on another player it may be just the 3 bucks Chrysoprase needed...  This applies also for some cards that may seem useless sometimes like the one that removes two chaos marks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third is a practical reason. It's easier to see what the oponent played once the cards are dished than watch him move by move. Also, players who sell/discard cards, give away information of what they don't want; that's also easier to track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But bottom line, it's best to play with some guidelines and just enjoy the game because if you play with good players.. they may outbluff you :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="3565" LastEditDate="2012-11-26T20:48:09.517" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T20:48:09.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9382" CreationDate="2012-11-26T20:58:27.293" Score="8" ViewCount="5088" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Fountain&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Fountain&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each player's upkeep, that player puts a flood counter on target non-Island land he or she controls of his or her choice. That land is an Island for as long as it has a flood counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each end step, if all lands on the battlefield are Islands, remove all flood counters from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine this card is useful specifically because it denies the opponent the appropriate color of mana, if they are not already playing a blue deck. If I make a Swamp into an Island, then it produces U instead of B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about with non-basic lands? If I turn &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hinterland%20Harbor&quot;&gt;Hinterland Harbor&lt;/a&gt; into an Island, does that mean it can no longer produce green mana? What about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seat%20of%20the%20Synod&quot;&gt;Seat of the Synod&lt;/a&gt;? Will that still be an artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:55:27.160" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T02:21:15.483" Title="When a land is granted a basic land type, what effects does that have?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9379" CreationDate="2012-11-26T21:20:52.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The land becomes an Island. It can no longer produce anything except U mana without help from other cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would have the text 'in addition to its other types' or something similar if it meant anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T21:20:52.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-11-26T21:31:16.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Early in the game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the nice answers already state, this will help you get cards or find something&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Late in the game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an expensive 6cost dev or planet you may have just gotten nice bonunses, and left with little cards on your hand. An explore here may give you an option to not lag behind if someone develops and/or settles; most likely if you are playing 1v1 you can explore/trade , explore/consume&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Last round of the game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to explore because you are stacked on bonuses and one of the players is clearly going to finish the game and you know someone will develop or settle.  You may explore here to pay for your last cards or simply find something worth playing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T21:31:16.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9379" CreationDate="2012-11-26T21:48:01.900" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that there is a difference between &amp;quot;gaining&amp;quot; a basic land type (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aquitect%27s%20Will&quot;&gt;Aquitect&amp;#39;s Will&lt;/a&gt;, &amp;quot;in addition to&amp;quot;) and a land &amp;quot;becoming&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;is&amp;quot; a basic land type. When a land becomes a basic land type, it loses its old rules text and gains the appropriate implict basic land mana generating ability. Supertypes and Types are unaffected, so a land that is also a creature or artifact remains one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.7. If an effect changes a land's subtype to one or more of the basic land types, the land no longer has its old land type. It loses all abilities generated from its rules text and its old land types, and it gains the appropriate mana ability for each new basic land type. Note that this doesn't remove any abilities that were granted to the land by other effects. Changing a land's subtype doesn't add or remove any card types (such as creature) or supertypes (such as basic, legendary, and snow) the land may have. If a land gains one or more land types in addition to its own, i keeps its land types and rules text, and it gains the new land types and mana abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T21:48:01.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9377" CreationDate="2012-11-26T21:58:48.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't answer your question directly, but I'm going to guess they're different, based on the redesign information. However, it may not matter. This looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/product_tables/AG1031.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the 3rd edition blanks pack&lt;/a&gt; you're looking for. The release date is October 2012, the same as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/product_tables/AG1030.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3rd edition release&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T21:58:48.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9384" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9391" CreationDate="2012-11-26T22:50:18.587" Score="19" ViewCount="3365" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non--board-game people keep making up their own rules, &lt;em&gt;without knowing it&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about players who are &lt;em&gt;intelligent&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;literate&lt;/em&gt;, but who don't generally play board games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything a game designer can do to help them understand how the game is played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Examples of the Problem&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one game, you move your piece around the board.  The rules say you may move your piece up to three steps.  There's a pair of dice included in the game for a completely different purpose.  This kind of player grabs the dice, rolls them, then moves their token that many spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In another game, there are many different cards.  Each card has text on it, saying what it does.  This kind of player plays the card and does something completely different than what it says.  For example, if it says &quot;When you play this, you must discard all your cards and gain $10.&quot;, they might play it and take $10 without discarding anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, this kind of player looks at a card and announces that they don't understand what it does.  But when you ask them what it says on the card, they read it, then say, &quot;Oh, that's what it does.&quot;.  (Note that I'm not talking about players with low literacy skills.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Why I Care&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a board game designer, involved with the publishing company, so if the rules aren't clear enough, I'm the one at fault.  The good news is that, if there's any fix to be done, I'm in a position to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T16:39:02.070" Title="Players who can't seem to follow the rules -- What can be done?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9386" CreationDate="2012-11-26T22:53:59.557" Score="6" ViewCount="4681" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can creatures with Undying or Persist escape from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Grave Betrayal&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.78a Persist is a triggered ability. &amp;quot;Persist&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;When this permanent is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, if it had no&#xA;-1/-1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a -1/-1 counter on it.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.92a Undying is a triggered ability. &amp;quot;Undying&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;When this permanent is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, if it had no&#xA;+1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T20:52:53.903" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T20:52:53.903" Title="Can creatures with Undying or Persist escape from Grave Betrayal?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9385" CreationDate="2012-11-26T22:53:59.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;, Grave Betrayal creates a delayed trigger that looks for the original corpse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each creature you don’t control that dies causes a delayed triggered&#xA;  ability to trigger at the beginning of the next end step. If there are&#xA;  multiple such abilities, you can put them on the stack in any order.&#xA;  The creatures will return to the battlefield one at a time as each&#xA;  ability resolves. The last ability you put on the stack will be the&#xA;  first one to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the creature card leaves the graveyard before the delayed triggered&#xA;  ability resolves, it won’t return to the battlefield. This is also&#xA;  true if the card leaves the graveyard and returns to the graveyard&#xA;  before that ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T22:53:59.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-11-26T23:06:10.580" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid there is no one, ultimate solution to this problem, which is completely real - I've had similiar experiences with some players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What to do right away?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the situation looks like you described (the part about reading card twice), there are some things you may try when it happens. Of course only if it happens when you're around. Ask questions, but remember to not be aggressive. For example, you might ask the confused player if he had actually read instructions on the card first time. All of this depends on who are you talking to - if it's someone who can be honest with you, or rather wouldn't admit that he didn't give understanding instructions a proper try, because he's ashamed of it. Some of the things that can happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He didn't really pay that much attention to the instructions, or didn't honestly try to understand them. You're not the one to blame here, not much you can do about it either. Maybe this person is bored with the game already, or wasn't really interested in playing it in the first place?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He did try to understand instructions, but didn't get them the first time. I would say there is a good chance, that this happens during playtesting of the game - is this by any chance true in this situation? I'm saying that, because it's been my experience - people playtesting the game would try less to understand some parts of the game mechanics or instructions, because they know that those instructions are an object to change. The reasoning would be something like this: &lt;em&gt;If I didn't get this right away, clearly, it must be too confusing. You should rephrase this.&lt;/em&gt; If you ask people close to you to playtest a game, you would actually encourage pointing out confusing things in the game, right? And they would be right at more than one ocassion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter which case this is, you should try to turn this situation to a valuable observation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How to improve instructions?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you can try would be to keep rules as simple as possible, with examples of play, and maybe include a FAQ at the back cover of instructions for easy reference (FAQ of course would be addressing most common misconceptions in this case, or most problematic situations in the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing would be to try to minimize situations in which things are done counter-intuitive or different than in most games. I believe this was the case with moving the piece around the board with dice. It wouldn't be confusing for you or me to get that we should move our pieces in different manner, because we are familiar with many games that does this. But many non-gamers would rely on their limited experiences - and those are that dice are for moving. Remember that &lt;em&gt;we are creatures of habit&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps, even if only in small part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-26T23:39:20.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9385" CreationDate="2012-11-27T00:39:57.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes (assuming the creature didn't have the relevant counter on it when it died).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card changes zone, it becomes a new object with no relation to the object it was in the earlier zone. (There are exceptions that allow Persist, Undying and Grave Betrayal to find the card in the graveyard, but the exceptions don't allow them to find the cards if they move from there to anywhere else.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, once persist/undying moves the card from the graveyard to the battlefield, the object Grave Betrayal's delayed triggered ability effects ceases to exist. When the ability triggers at the beginning of the next end step, it will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the case regardless of whether Persist/Undying or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Grave Betrayal&lt;/a&gt; resolves first (which depends on whose turn it is), since Grave Betrayal's ability merely creates a delayed triggered ability that will have effect later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card were to find itself back in the graveyard before the beginning of the end step, it would be a different object and wouldn't be affected by the delayed triggered ability created the first time it died. (Of course, if Grave Betrayal is still on the battlefield, it'll create a new delayed triggered ability the second time the creature dies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T02:42:30.263" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T02:42:30.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9389" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-11-27T00:49:09.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game takes its name from its atypical use of cardboard disks to represent military units, commanders, monsters, and battlefield terrain features. Tabletop wargames more commonly use miniatures and scale models for these purposes. The relatively low cost of cardboard play pieces compared to metal or plastic figures was one of the game's two major marketing points. The other was its deliberately collectible nature, inspired by the success of collectible card games such as Magic: The Gathering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1977" LastEditorUserId="1977" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T01:18:49.510" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T01:18:49.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9390" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-11-27T00:49:09.733" Score="0" Body="Disk Wars is a collectible fantasy tabletop miniature wargame designed primarily by Tom Jolly and Christian T. Petersen and first published in 1999 by Fantasy Flight Games." OwnerUserId="1977" LastEditorUserId="1977" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T01:18:45.627" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T01:18:45.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-11-27T01:02:50.827" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with people such as this is that they're impatient to start playing, and don't want to take the time to read lots of instructions. The best thing you can do, as @beam022 touched on, is improve the instructions. Make them non-threatening and as easily understandable as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Game element formatting&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graphic symbols--used sparsely--can help. Don't go overboard on symbols, but for the most common of your common game elements symbols can be nice. Dominion, for example uses symbols for money and victory points. It could use symbols for +Cards or +Buy, but those are short, clear words so there's no need. Magic uses symbols for tapping and untapping and for mana costs (maybe a couple other things, but I can't think of any), which is very parsimonious given the level of complexity. Again, they &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use a symbol for &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;, but it's probably better that they don't. A few graphics can help people parse things better and add color, breaking up text and making it look more inviting. But only use symbols if you can be sure that they are unambiguous. 7 Wonders, for example, uses symbols effectively, but so extensively that every time I've taught the game to someone new they've needed to refer to the symbol glossary frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Systematic formatting can help too. You give an example of a card where the player discards all cards to get $10. If you have many cards that could be broken down similarly, the text on the card could be formatted as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pay:&lt;/strong&gt; Discard all your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get:&lt;/strong&gt; Gain $10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially separating the condition and result into bullet points, I think, makes it harder to ignore, and if this is a pattern that can be easily learned and applied to other cards, all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Instructions style&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my experience generalizes, the people who can't be be bothered to read the rules just want to start playing, so write instructions that help them do that. Most rule books start with identifying pieces and set-up, as they should. If you can, the next sections should briefly state the goal of the game, then get on to a sample turn. Give section number references to following sections of the rules where you'll give details on each phase/step/whatever, but let them get started. In writing, you'll be hard-pressed to hold these players' attention for very long. The best you can do is to facilitate their &amp;quot;diving in&amp;quot; by making it easy to look things up in the rules (via short, well-labeled sections and subsections, a Table of Contents, an Index, and cross-references).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T07:59:46.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-27T02:52:25.310" Score="9" ViewCount="1852" Body="&lt;p&gt;After playing bridge for several months, I feel my declarer play and bidding have improved to a beginner-intermediate level. However, I think my skill at making an opening lead is that of a novice at best. I have memorized some basic rules about evaluating my hand and inspecting the bidding for clues (and plan to do plenty of additional reading), but I'm curious if there are any good ways to practice my opening leads. With bidding and declarer play I can get quick feedback on whether my choices were good or bad, but with opening leads I rarely have any idea if my lead was brilliant, average, or terrible even after the hand is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I tell if I made a good lead or a poor lead?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could examine what gives the best score after recording the cards of all players, but I still won't be able to tell if discovering that lead would be possible &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; knowing everyone's cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there slightly more guesswork in opening leads than in the rest of bridge?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I find two leads that seem to be equally good, sometimes I just pick one at random. Obviously professionals would be able to evaluate leads far better than I could, but do they sometimes encounter the same situation and do a mental coin-flip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T16:48:34.473" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T22:44:21.900" Title="How can I practice my opening leads in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-11-27T08:47:43.177" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you should be overly worrying about this &quot;problem&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boardgame people, who I assume will make up the majority of your target market, will be game-literate enough not to need patronisingly simple instructions on how to approach the basic mechanics of the game.  Once they've bought the game, if they have less game-literate friends that they're in the habit of playing with a lot, they will have their own strategies for getting them to focus and play by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if your boardgame falls into the hands of people who don't care at all, and have no one to set them straight if they go off track?  Well, even in this case I'm recommending you don't sweat it.  I have a work colleague who recently showed off a Scrabble board he was proud of.  &quot;Cool,&quot; I said, &quot;what was the score?&quot; &quot;Oh, we weren't playing for points,&quot; he replied, &quot;we just took it in turns to make words.&quot;  As a competitive Scrabble player this idea really got my back up for about 3 seconds, and then I thought, what does it matter?  They really enjoyed playing their &quot;game&quot; of Scrabble.  Why take that away from them by trying to insist they play it the &quot;correct&quot; way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not to say your ruleset shouldn't be as clear, as colourful, as fun as possible.  (In fact, I think fun is the most important of the three.  Take a game like Dungeon Lords where the rules are hugely complicated, but the hilariously written rulebook makes it a joy to read and slowly start to understand them.)  But, even if not everyone in the group wants to read and assimilate the rules, one of two things will happen.  Either (a) someone in the group will take pride in being the master and interpreter of the rules, and they will manage to communicate their findings to the rest of the group.  Or (b) the group will find their own way of enjoying the game, and this is fine.  I don't think many people buy lots of boardgames without caring about playing by the correct rules, but if there are such people, I think we should let them have whatever kind of fun they find most fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T08:47:43.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9396" CreationDate="2012-11-27T09:08:42.637" Score="8" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=36&quot;&gt;Bohnanza&lt;/a&gt; (known under different names in different countries)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a rather simple game intended to have a quick learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the rulebook is brief and  thus there are some gaps that are not covered.  One of this is the selling. Excluding the 2 players variant, according to the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you may sell crops at any point of the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The limit on coins you get is 4 per sale&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining these rules, I want to know how &lt;strong&gt;selling works during your turn&lt;/strong&gt;. Consider it is your turn and you have two full plantations. Can you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sell one of them for 4 coins, and plant in the emptied field&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sell the other field for 4 coins, and plant a second card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, does the limit of 4 coins apply to your turn or to a single sale (in which case it's redundant, as no card gives more than 4)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T16:39:32.130" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T16:39:32.130" Title="What is the limit on selling during your turn?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9395" CreationDate="2012-11-27T10:21:58.403" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a redundant rule. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_36_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;printing from Rio Grande Games&lt;/a&gt; doesn't even mention the 4 gold maximum per sale. Under &lt;strong&gt;Harvesting and selling beans&lt;/strong&gt; (page 7), it only mentions restrictions on selling from a bean field with fewer than 2 beans only when both fields have exactly 1 bean. The other rule you mention is reiterated though. Therefore, you can earn 8 gold in the example that you gave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may harvest and sell beans at any time, even when they are not the active player. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-27T10:27:29.803" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T10:27:29.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9395" CreationDate="2012-11-27T10:26:50.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &quot;4 per sale&quot; is fairly simple and explicit, 4 per sale.  You can carry out multiple sales per turn, and gain as many coins from each sale as your beans are worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game wanted you to gain a maximum of 4 coins on each of your turns as active player, it would certainly have specified &quot;4 coins per turn&quot;, instead of &quot;4 per sale&quot; (which pretty much goes without saying anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T10:26:50.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2012-11-27T10:32:01.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A potentially massive question, this.  I could recommend the almost-goes-without-saying-stuff, like: play a lot of bridge, make a note of the different leads that you considered before choosing one, asking your partner afterwards if another lead might have been better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Definitely read up on opening leads as much as possible and try to correlate what you learn with how various leads work out for you in practice.  I'm sure there are a million essays out there on the art of the opening lead, but here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~kwbridge/bb/leads1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one to start you off&lt;/a&gt;.  Maybe other people will turn up even better expert advice!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T10:32:01.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9363" CreationDate="2012-11-27T11:02:31.177" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are six constructed formats, and although Wizards doesn't have a good reference to how/why sets rotate into and out of formats, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_formats&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; does a good job of enumerating them, and describing what sets are legal for each format. As to the banning of individual cards within a format, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/resources/banned&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards Banned/Restricted&lt;/a&gt; list for each format is continually updated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vintage&lt;/strong&gt; - The Vintage format, formerly known as Type 1, allows cards from all sets that are legal for constructed play (known as an &amp;quot;Eternal&amp;quot; format). Vintage maintains a small banned list and a larger restricted list. Unlike in the other formats, the DCI does not ban cards in Vintage for power level reasons. Rather, banned cards in Vintage are those that involve ante, manual dexterity (e.g. – &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chaos%20Orb&quot;&gt;Chaos Orb&lt;/a&gt;), or subgames (e.g. – &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shahrazad&quot;&gt;Shahrazad&lt;/a&gt;). Cards that raise power level concerns are instead restricted to one per deck. Vintage is currently the only format in which cards are restricted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt; - Legacy is another &amp;quot;Eternal&amp;quot; constructed format. It also allows cards from all legal sets, but unlike Vintage, it maintains only a banned list, and cards are banned in Legacy for power level reasons. The format evolved from Type 1.5, which allowed cards from all sets and maintained a banned list corresponding to Vintage: all cards banned or restricted cards in the old Type 1 were banned in Type 1.5. The modern Legacy format began in 2004, as the DCI separated Legacy's banned list from Vintage and banned many new cards to reduce the power level of the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern&lt;/strong&gt; - Modern is the newest constructed format. Modern was created by Wizards of the Coast in the Spring of 2011 as a response to the increasing popularity of the Legacy format, which although popular proved difficult to access due to the high price of staple cards. [...] Modern allows cards from the 8th Edition core set and all expansion printed afterwards. The 8th Edition core set was when Magic cards began to be printed in modern card frames, and this is where the name for the format is derived. Wizards believed this cutoff would have the advantage of giving a visual cue as to which cards are legal in the Modern format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extended&lt;/strong&gt; - The Extended format, formerly known as Type 1.x, consists of the last four years' of blocks and core sets. With each autumn set release, one year's worth of sets rotate out of the format. Any additional sets released between rotations are automatically added to this format's card pool. The format previously contained seven years' of blocks and core sets. The new system was implemented in July 2010 to reduce the format's card pool, with the intention that this would make the format more understandable and attractive to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt; - The Standard format is continually one of the most popular formats in the constructed deck tournament scene. It is the format most commonly found at Friday Night Magic tournaments, played weekly at many hobby shops. Standard used to be referred to alternatively as &amp;quot;Type 2&amp;quot;. While the name, &amp;quot;Type 2&amp;quot; has been dropped officially, it is still commonplace that the standard format be referred to this way. This format consists of the most recent &amp;quot;Core Set&amp;quot; release and the two most recent &amp;quot;Block&amp;quot; releases, with one exception. &amp;quot;Rotation&amp;quot; occurs every fall when the first set of the new &amp;quot;Block&amp;quot; releases and becomes Standard Legal. From the time the new &amp;quot;Core Set&amp;quot; is released in early summer, until rotation occurs, 2 core sets are legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block Constructed&lt;/strong&gt; - The Block Constructed format uses only the cards from a single block of Magic sets. Magic sets since Mirage have come in groups (usually of three) known as blocks. Block Constructed formats, and blocks themselves, usually take the name of the first set in the block. For example, the Ravnica Block Constructed format consists of Ravnica: City of Guilds, Guildpact, and Dissension. Only cards that were printed in the sets in the appropriate block can be used in Block Constructed formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T11:02:31.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9362" CreationDate="2012-11-27T11:33:42.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct, the vampire will die. Combat damage is dealt simultaneously if none/all of the creatures have &lt;strong&gt;First Strike/Double Strike&lt;/strong&gt; (if two creatures were to fight &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contested%20Cliffs&quot;&gt;Contested Cliffs&lt;/a&gt;, the situation would be the same). After damage is assigned, it is dealt simultaneously, then triggered abilities are placed on the stack. This happens just before a player receives priority, which means that you have to check for state-based actions, one of which is to place creatures with lethal damage in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1. First, [...] each creature assigns its combat damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. &lt;strong&gt;Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, &lt;strong&gt;that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T11:33:42.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7067" CreationDate="2012-11-27T13:07:27.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Explore +1/+1 is a good option to refill your hand, particularly when you have good cards you would like to play, but either can't, or don't want to pay the costs with the other cards in your hand.  It then lets you get new cards in to your hand, to let you either change what you will play, or pay the cost with those cards.  You can then leech off of the opponent's develop/settle, or do one yourself in a later round with more efficiency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Explore +5's utility depends somewhat on which expansions you have.  If you are playing with just the base game, it's more effective, due to a smaller deck of cards to search through.  Each expansion decreases the possibility of getting a specific card, and tilts what the overall deck composition is friendly towards.  Most of note, though, is the final expansion in set 1, which gives you the Search action--an action that, while one-time-only, effectively replaces the main use case for Explore +5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T13:07:27.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2012-11-27T14:36:31.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Print the most important/easy to miss instructions on the board.  I don't mean, actually explaining or listing the rules, but putting in little bits to help.  Like in the first example have an arrows with a 1/2/3 printed next to it.  Players are much more likely to do the right thing if it is in their face the entire game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't put tiny text on cards.  Card text should be brief, super clear, in an easy to read font.  Then on the bottom the card should have in a smaller text all the explanations including even repeating game rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make the rules concise.  The best I have seen is small boxes that explain the important rules with other areas that go into very long details.  When important game rules are hidden in paragraphs of text they get overlooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a summary on the back.  Tell people how to set up the game, how many cards to draw, how much money they get.  No one wants to hunt rules for that.  Then have game phases and any other info that players may need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have an area of commonly overlooked rules.  This has to come from play testing, not from what the designer thinks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T14:36:31.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9405" CreationDate="2012-11-27T18:25:50.250" Score="5" ViewCount="4257" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal in competitive play to fill in the border of white-bordered MtG cards with black marker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which marker would be best to use, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T01:03:28.240" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T22:06:21.430" Title="Marking white borders with black marker" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2012-11-27T19:16:49.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evaluating opening leads objectively can be very difficult. In fact, it would be hard to do so without doing an extensive computer simulation in many cases (which in itself, is a hard problem). Of course, there will also be situations where one call tell what a good/poor lead is, without any simulations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your other question, yes there is more guesswork in opening leads, than in the rest of the play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, when thinking of opening leads, you need to listen to the bidding, look at your hand, try to decide what might happen during the play and then come up with a general strategy before deciding what suit/card to lead. (Note: scoring might also change the way you think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some typical categories of the general strategy are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) Active Defense&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think you need to get your tricks in a hurry? Then you might want to consider an Active lead, like underleading Kings/Queens in order to set up your tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance you hold Kxx, Axxx, xxx, xxx. Opponents are in a small slam in clubs, after a normal auction. Many good players will consider leading a spade (from Kxx), hoping partner has the Q and setting up a spade trick before the heart A gets knocked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) Passive Defense&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does declarer need to work to make his tricks? Then you consider a lead which is less likely to blow away tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) Forcing defense&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In game or lower level contracts, if you know that the trumps split badly (like 4-1), you might consider a strategy where you lead your suits, forcing declarer to ruff and lose trump control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4) Trump leads&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it look like declarer will use dummy's trumps to ruff out his losers? A trump lead might be called for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of good books on opening leads which teach you to think in these general terms (the link in thesun's answer is good with examples, and overlaps with this answer partly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T19:16:49.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9403" CreationDate="2012-11-27T20:10:54.217" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but only if the head judge agrees. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.internationalmagicjudges.net/index.php?title=Magic_Tournament_Rules#3.3_Authorized_Cards&quot;&gt;Mtg Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; require that the card has white or black borders (no UN cards or World Champion cards), and the alteration cannot make the card marked. As &lt;strong&gt;ghoppe&lt;/strong&gt; points out, you might have to worry about bleed unless you use Opaque card sleeves. If you choose to do this, a judge will likely still be called to verify that the cards aren't marked for randomization purposes if sleeves aren't used, and the cards are legal white\black bordered cards and not World Champion cards in either case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T02:00:33.243" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T02:00:33.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-27T20:37:27.293" Score="4" ViewCount="777" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm inclined to bid NT with 15-17 points, but am weak in one suit, how weak can I be, and still bid 1NT, as opposed to bidding 1 club, to find out if my partner can show strength e.g. a stopper in my suit, by bidding it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3568" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T02:28:17.513" LastActivityDate="2022-08-26T13:30:44.687" Title="Bridge bidding - how do I decide whether or not to bid 1NT with weakness in a particular suit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2012-11-27T21:30:59.340" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your partner's response(s) ought to give you a good idea of whether a no trumps contract is the correct one to pursue, or if you might be better off looking elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your partner will bid Stayman over your NT bid.  If you find a satisfactory fit in hearts or spades, then the question of whether you have a shortage somewhere else becomes irrelevant (in fact, it turns into a bonus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, your partner may well - indeed, is statistically quite likely to - try to bid the suit that you are weak in.  If he does, then this reinforces your initial assumption that a no trumps contract may be a good place to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your partner avoids the suit you are weak in - especially if he avoids it &lt;em&gt;twice&lt;/em&gt;, then perhaps NT is not such a good idea.  However, if this is the case then he has almost certainly bid in a suit that you hold 4 cards in, by now.  If so, you have a pretty good option to shift to, outside of no trumps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-27T21:30:59.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9412" CreationDate="2012-11-28T02:16:42.067" Score="6" ViewCount="3162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a 300 piece poker set and none of the pieces have a denomination on them.  I have white (100 count), red (50 count), green(50 count), blue (50 count), and black (50 count) pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have about 6-12 people coming over this weekend to play.  How should I break up the chips and have them be assigned?  For value assignments I was thinking of: 10 (white), 25 (red), 50 (green), 100 (blue), 500 (black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1326" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T17:22:42.387" Title="Initial setup for a house game" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9408" CreationDate="2012-11-28T02:54:52.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official color scheme for chip values, and it varies from venue to venue and by country or governing body if any (Nevada does not regulate chip colors). New Jersey does have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scottspokertable.com/pokerchipcolors.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gaming Control board&lt;/a&gt; that does regulate the chip colors. (I couldn't find an official link). These colors match up with many of the standard colors you find in home sets. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chiptalk.net/forum/poker-chip-advice/11258-advice-chip-colors-breakdowns-home-games.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; lists the same NJ chip colors, and has some recommendations for chip distributions based upon the number of players, the gametype, and the small blind. They recommend you use whichever colors you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$1 - white&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$5 – red&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$10 – blue&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$25 – green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$100 – black&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T02:54:52.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9403" CreationDate="2012-11-28T11:15:36.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not going into detail with the tournament rules, I can say that I have done this myself, for aesthetics only. (my eyes got annoyed by the white borders + OCD)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After testing some, I found that these four markers were the way to go since they dried fast and didn't smudge easily :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TErcO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Markes I use&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastEditorUserId="1536" LastEditDate="2021-08-22T22:06:21.430" LastActivityDate="2021-08-22T22:06:21.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6938" CreationDate="2012-11-28T13:28:29.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, dead creatures are removed from combat. They are no longer attacking/blocking creatures when combat damage is assigned or dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.4. A permanent is removed from combat if it leaves the battlefield, [...] A creature that's removed from combat stops being an attacking, blocking, blocked, and/or unblocked creature. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510 &lt;strong&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1. First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T13:28:29.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9408" CreationDate="2012-11-28T18:08:57.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've encountered several systems of marked denominations on poker chips...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is as follows, and is also what's listed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/od/poker/a/chip_denoms.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;about.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;White, $1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Yellow, $2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Red, $5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Blue, $10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Grey, $20&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Green, $25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Orange, $50&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Black, $100&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Pink, $250&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Purple, $500&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Burgundy, $1000&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Light Blue, $2000&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Brown, $5000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;White $1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Red $5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Blue $10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Green $20&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Black $100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the third is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;White $1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Red $5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Blue $10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Green $25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Black $100&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a fourth is as follows, matching what's at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.easypokerchips.com/poker-chip-values&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EasyPokerChips.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;White&#xA;  1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Pink&#xA;  2.5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Red&#xA;  5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Blue&#xA;  10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Green&#xA;  25&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Black&#xA;  100&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Purple&#xA;  500&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Yellow&#xA;  1000 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Gray&#xA;  5000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fourth has gray high, and pink at 2.5...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casino_token&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has a good article on &quot;Gaming Tokens&quot; - it explains the why of $20 chips vs $25 - 5% commissions are common in Pai Gao and Baccarat, and that is aided by use of a $20 chip rather than $25. It's not uncommon in a couple other games, including Roulette and Craps, to have 20:1 payouts, also facilitated by having a $20 chip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-11-28T18:23:17.737" LastActivityDate="2012-11-28T18:23:17.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="487" CreationDate="2012-11-29T00:28:20.187" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hostile force:  1 carrier, 10 fighters, 4 cruisers, 1 war sun, 1 ground force&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defending force:  1 carrier, 6 fighters, 1 cruiser, with 3 ground forces defending the planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The planet in question is highly valuable, and this is the final turn (or losing it will cost you the ability to gain VPs this turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, you are unable to destroy the war sun in straight combat, and if it lives to the end of the battle, it will single-handedly destroy all defending ground forces while keeping the lone ground force secure for the invasion.  On the flip side, should the war sun be destroyed, then the invasion will be unsuccessful this turn (1v3 odds) excepting extreme luck bias.  Therefore, the #1 priority for this battle is the destruction of the war sun - the other massive segment of the fleet is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strafing run, GO!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3571" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T00:28:20.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9417" CreationDate="2012-11-29T01:56:30.843" Score="13" ViewCount="3349" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I've noticed myself building decks that have no spells that cost 0 or 1 mana, and instead have extra spells that cost 2 mana to make sure I don't get crushed in the early game. 1-drops only really shine on turn 1 or when you squeeze them in on later turns, so switching them all out for 2-drops seems like it could potentially be advantageous. Am I making a big mistake by doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this is highly situational in terms of deck-type and the cards in question. I would think an Aggro deck would want to run 1-drops just to get swinging by turn 2, even if they could've waited and got a more powerful creature later on. There are also some 1-mana spells that are good enough to be competitive with 2-drops anyway. But in general, &lt;strong&gt;what are the costs and benefits of running a deck with all the 1-mana cards shifted up to more powerful 2-mana cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I primarily play limited formats, but I don't think constructed vs. limited would matter much in the context of this question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T21:57:31.797" Title="Pros and Cons of running a deck with no 1-mana spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9414" CreationDate="2012-11-29T02:16:32.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, constructed vs. limited &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; make a major difference here, simply in the quality of the one-drops that are likely to be available.  As a for-instance, a card like Deathrite Shaman is going to be nearly as fine in a well-built draft deck as he will be in a constructed deck, but you can't exactly say 'today I think I'll draft a Golgari deck and open Deathrite Shaman'!  (Besides, you would clearly say '...and open Pack Rat' instead...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For limited, it's not only just fine to have a deck without any one-drops, I would say it's more common than not.  The problem is that most one-drops are just too quickly outclassed and can't get enough damage through in time to be worth the burden of top-decking them in the midgame when you need something that can actually punch through.  There are certainly exceptions (an aggressive Rakdos deck would benefit from a multiplicity of Rakdos Cacklers, for instance) and many decks can be enhanced by the 'right' one-drop &amp;mdash; but I wouldn't consider a lack of one-drops a detriment for any but the most agressive of limited decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T02:16:32.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9414" CreationDate="2012-11-29T02:32:41.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One drops are nearly useless in multiplayer, since they represent an even smaller fraction of the damage that you need to do over the course of a game. A 2/1 for one mana can deal one tenth the necessary damage to win a duel, but with 4+ opponents it is only dealing one fortyith that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card doesn't provide mana (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;), make everyone sacrifice a creature (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Innocent%20Blood&quot;&gt;Innocent Blood&lt;/a&gt;), tutor (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vampiric%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Vampiric Tutor&lt;/a&gt;), or draw lots of cards (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Tax&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt;) then it probably isn't worth playing. There are of course exceptions, cards that do scale well (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Warden&quot;&gt;Soul Warden&lt;/a&gt;) in multiplayer, but in general most cards below 4 CMC don't do much in multiplayer, creatures especially. You are almost always going to be able to out class your opponents decks if you play with zero 1-drops, so that when the mid/late game hits you are drawing higher quality spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T04:52:48.143" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T04:52:48.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9414" CreationDate="2012-11-29T06:54:56.500" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm playing standard, the game is typically decided in the first 5 or 6 turns. Consider how devistating a Titan was, and the number of extremely powerful 6 drops compared to extremely powerful 5 drops. Now in the current set, development actively tried to extend the game further out, but still in many cases the game is set in stone (barring a true bomb, of course) by turn 6. If you don't have a solid 1 drop in a standard game, you aren't so doomed that you scoop right away, but you are at a significant disadvantage because you lost the ability to play on one of the 5 game defining turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm playing draft, assuming the opponent doesn't get mana screwed, mana flooded, color screwed, or some other 'lame' win, I expect the game to really not be decided until turn 8 or 9. And due to the sporadic nature of bombs in your draft decks, can completely turn around at any time. So missing out on a first turn creature and falling a little behind isn't a big deal. It's still not good to start at a disadvantage, but you're much more likely to come back from this in draft than in standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in something like Commander, when you have 40 life, a 1 mana creature doesn't do much at all. In fact, I only have 4 one mana spells at all (which, drawing 7 cards out of 100, means I have a about a 1/3 chance of getting one - not very high) in my main Commander deck, and none of them are creatures. They are all highly utility too: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sol%20Ring&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;, which i consider more like a land than a spell, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shrieking%20Affliction&quot;&gt;Shrieking Affliction&lt;/a&gt;, which isn't much of a turn 1 spell, but does a lot of damage over the course of the game, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Virulent%20Swipe&quot;&gt;Virulent Swipe&lt;/a&gt; just because death touch is very important to the deck, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quest%20for%20the%20Gravelord&quot;&gt;Quest for the Gravelord&lt;/a&gt; to profit from people fighting eachother. So really, only one of those cards is intended to be played on turn 1, and is still viable at any time in the game. (5/5s are always welcome!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's important to know what the tempo of the game is. I have control decks that don't mind not having a 1-drop. Multiplayer doesn't normally need one. It's all about knowing your deck, the tempo, and even your opponents. Like so many things... playtest, playtest, playtest!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T06:54:56.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-29T06:58:32.233" Score="9" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some terms have an unofficial but widely known meaning in Magic jargon. For example, a &amp;quot;cantrip&amp;quot; is a spell that lets you draw a card, and a &amp;quot;bear&amp;quot; is a vanilla 2/2 (with &amp;quot;vanilla&amp;quot; having its own meaning!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about a card that produces mana like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sol%20Ring&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Signet&quot;&gt;Rakdos Signet&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Talisman%20of%20Indulgence&quot;&gt;Talisman of Indulgence&lt;/a&gt;? Do they have an unofficial name?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-11-29T09:24:54.030" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T11:04:26.393" Title="Is there an unofficial term for an artifact that produces mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9418" CreationDate="2012-11-29T07:44:45.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The canonical name for these seems to be 'Mana Rocks', probably so named after one of the very first, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247152&quot;&gt;Fellwar Stone&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T07:44:45.080" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9418" CreationDate="2012-11-29T11:04:26.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Mana Rocks&quot; might be a genuine term, but I don't think it's a particularly useful one, as it's not very descriptive of the &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt; of these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was talking about this class of card, in a way more likely to explain why I'd want to include some in my decks, I'd just go for &quot;artifact-based mana acceleration&quot;.  I know this answers your question less well than Steven's answer, but on the other hand I, and I'm sure many others, would never use the term &quot;mana rocks&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T11:04:26.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9414" CreationDate="2012-11-29T11:18:50.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Limited, you may well want to avoid 0 and 1 drops.  The advantage of 1 drops is that they're quite marginal cards... which can come out on turn 1, and generate quite a lot of early pressure if they do.  (I'm obviously talking about &quot;true&quot; 1 drops, and not things like Giant Growth which you never play on turn 1.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an aggro Constructed deck, your game plan is to generate as much pressure as quickly as possible, and 2-power one drops will very likely be a big part of this plan.  In Limited, though, unless things have gone &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well for you, or you're drafting Zendikar, you probably aren't planning to swarm and kill your opponent inside the first five turns.  As such, having cards in your deck which are good on turn 1 but pretty much dead draws after turn 5 doesn't seem like maximising your win chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get me wrong, you should always try to gauge the speed of the format you're playing in, and make sure your deck allows you to make plenty of relevant plays before your opponent  creates so much tempo advantage for himself that it will be difficult for you to make a comeback.  It's just that, outside of Constructed, it's not usually the case that missing a turn 1 play will make that difference.  So you will probably be better off concentrating on card power instead of card velocity (to coin a phrase).  Just remember that filling your deck chock full of powerful 7-drops isn't likely to work out for you either, at the other end of the scale!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T11:18:50.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9424" CreationDate="2012-11-29T16:50:29.003" Score="6" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Reach read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Reach keyword allows the figure to use a Melee attack to target a&#xA;  figure up to two spaces away, rather than only adjacent spaces. The&#xA;  target still needs to be in line of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that the reaching figure can hit one additional space away from where it could normally hit, or two spaces away from where it could normally hit? Alternatively, is &quot;adjacent&quot; considered to be figures that are zero spaces away, or one space away? (my question is about what &quot;x spaces away&quot; means, and not what adjacent means)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T17:09:10.097" Title="How far away does Reach let you hit?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9423" CreationDate="2012-11-29T17:09:10.097" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.descentinthedark.com/_r_/reach.php&quot;&gt;this FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Reach ability allows a figure to make a melee attack targeting&#xA;  both adjacent spaces and spaces at a range of 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's pretty clear from the way that's phrased that &quot;adjacent spaces&quot; means the same as &quot;spaces at a range of 1&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-11-29T17:09:10.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-11-29T22:12:31.153" Score="6" ViewCount="4257" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Koth%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt;'s plus one ability work when it ends right after you use it and the Mountain turned into a creature has summoning sickness (part of the rulings on Gatherer)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3576" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T14:58:25.540" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T21:18:48.590" Title="If Koth of the Hammer's plus one ability ends at end of turn, doesn't it make it useless?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9425" CreationDate="2012-11-30T00:02:21.507" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you've misunderstood the ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Koth's first ability animates a Mountain that came under your control that turn, it will have &quot;summoning sickness&quot; and be unable to attack. It will also be unable to be tapped to activate an ability with the {T} symbol in its cost, such as the Mountain's mana ability or the ability granted to it by Koth's emblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mountain has been under your control since before the beginning of this turn, it does not have &quot;summoning sickness&quot;. It's only unable to tap and attack if it's a mountain that you played this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T00:02:21.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9425" CreationDate="2012-11-30T00:24:10.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether it has summoning sickness or not depends on how long you have controlled the mountain. How long it has been a creature doesn't matter whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have controlled the mountain since the beginning of your most recent turn, it doesn't have summoning sickness. So you're fine if you played the Mountain on a previous turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't controlled the mountain since the beginning of your most recent turn, it has summoning sickness. If it's a creature, it can't attack, and you can't use its activated abilities with the tap symbol ({T}) or the untap symbol ({Q}) in its cost. (This means you wouldn't be able to use its native mana-producing ability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T00:24:10.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9430" CreationDate="2012-11-30T09:24:52.877" Score="10" ViewCount="997" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have had disagreements about how one particular kind of production power works in Race for the Galaxy: powers that involve drawing cards for each good produced, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diversified Economy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;draw 1 card for each &lt;em&gt;kind&lt;/em&gt; of good you produced this phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Research Labs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;draw 1 card for each Alien technology good you produced&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When combined with powers that produce goods on windfall planets, such as the power of the Produce action card itself, &lt;strong&gt;do you draw cards for goods produced using the 'produce on windfall' powers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In part it is that I don't understand what &quot;no power can interrupt another&quot; means in the RFTG rulebook and also because online versions of the games vary with how this applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-11-30T13:38:44.960" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T13:38:44.960" Title="When drawing cards for each produced good, does it include goods produced on windfall worlds?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9429" CreationDate="2012-11-30T10:56:23.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. Those powers apply to all goods that are produced on your worlds, regardless of &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; they are produced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T10:56:23.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9429" CreationDate="2012-11-30T12:39:57.843" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you draw a card regardless of what kind of world the good was produced on.&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_240_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; mentions, (page 7) under Produce, that players who choose &lt;strong&gt;Produce&lt;/strong&gt; get to &amp;quot;produce&amp;quot; a good on one Windfall world. It also gives an example of a special power that produces goods on windfall worlds. Since &lt;strong&gt;Research Labs&lt;/strong&gt; draws cards for each good of a specific kind produced, and the rules indicate that goods on windfall worlds can be &amp;quot;produced&amp;quot; either as a bonus based on a players chosen action or card effects, you draw a card regardless of whether that good was produced on a halo/solid world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players who chose &lt;strong&gt;Produce&lt;/strong&gt;, as a bonus, produce a good (if possible) on one of their windfall worlds that does not already have a good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards, such as &lt;strong&gt;Genetic Labs&lt;/strong&gt;, can also produce goods on windfall worlds (without goods).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does &amp;quot;no power can interrupt another&amp;quot; mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is meant here, is that you should resolve a power/effect completely before applying the results of another power/effect. &lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; If you have an Alien world (yellow) that allows you to Discard a Card to produce an Alien good, but you have no cards in hand and no way to produce yellow goods. You could draw cards from &lt;strong&gt;Diversified Economy&lt;/strong&gt; (for producing goods on other worlds), and then discard one of those cards to produce an Alien good. &lt;strong&gt;This would not entitle you to draw another card from Diversified Economy&lt;/strong&gt; for producing another kind of good, because you already resolved it's effects. If you control a &lt;strong&gt;Research Labs&lt;/strong&gt; as well though, you could draw a card from it's power by resolving it's effect after Diversified Economy and the &amp;quot;Discard to Produce Good&amp;quot; effect of the Alien world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T13:22:21.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9433" CreationDate="2012-11-30T15:21:44.207" Score="11" ViewCount="33458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a list of the dimensions of all the bases in Warhammer 40k.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there is a 60mm base, for large models, and there is one that is 120mm x 55mm for really large models. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know the sizes for the smaller models, or for the flying models.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like a list of all the sizes would be very handy, but I can't find all of them in one place.  A list of all the square bases from Warhammer Fantasy would be useful too.  I don't own many of those models, so I have nothing to measure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T08:18:32.110" Title="What is the exact size of all the Warhammer 40k bases?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|basing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9432" CreationDate="2012-11-30T15:51:00.697" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the supported base sizes in 40K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard Infantry - 25mm round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large Infantry - 40mm round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monsters - 60mm round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flyer - 90x120mm oval&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bike Bases - 25x70mm oval&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear flight stands small - 30mm round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clear flight stands large - 60mm round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Fantasy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Standard Infantry - 20mm square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large Infantry - 25mm square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monsters - 40mm square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cavalry - 25x50mm rectangle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T15:51:00.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9414" CreationDate="2012-11-30T16:05:24.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheap spells often give you a small benefit for the cost of a card. Expensive spells often gives you a bigger benefit and still only costing you a card. This means that you get more out of each card with more expensive spells.&#xA;So, why don't you only play the expensive spells to maximize your output from your cards? Well, obviously, if you only play 8-drops you're going to end up losing a lot of games. Sure, Incinerate is a stronger card than Shock but it can't kill a Raging Goblin until you have 2 mana. Can you afford to take that extra hit? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really that simple, expensive cards give you a greater effect but later on (or maybe not at all). What suits you best is all about what your game plan is and what you're up against. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you should have a look at so called 'cantrips'. They are cheap spells with a small positive effect and also draws you a card. So if you don't want to play anything that costs you a card at turn 1 a cantrip is perfect. Examples: Brainstorm, Ponder, Sleight of Hand, Peek, Gitaxian Probe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T16:05:24.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9442" CreationDate="2012-11-30T20:28:33.460" Score="3" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Descent: Journeys in the Dark, 2nd Edition, the rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Figures cannot jump over a pit space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never saw jumping mentioned anywhere else in the rules. How does jumping work and where is it defined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the same as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5302/in-descent-can-heroes-jump-over-arbitrary-tiles-or-just-pits&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; question, as that question is dealing with the 1st edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T15:46:38.623" Title="How does jumping work in Descent 2nd Edition?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6877" CreationDate="2012-11-30T21:25:49.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two big tricks to figuring out when you can go out are &lt;em&gt;counting cards&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;figuring out how your cards will play&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What's in your hand?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figure out where your &quot;losers&quot; are in your hand - sets where you will be unable to take control: middle triples, pairs, singletons, etc. where you have no high set to establish control. These are the cards that you play dead last. It's possible to have two losers in the same number, e.g. a pair of 12s and a pair of 11s (with no other pairs to take control after you've played those). Similarly, determine if you have any &quot;winners&quot; - card combinations that you think nobody can beat (a triple in threes or fours, a pair of twos or threes, etc.). Finally, look at your hand and see how many middle-rank sets you have - cards you can slip into somebody else's play, or that you can slip into the middle of your own plays as you're going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the definition of &quot;winners,&quot; &quot;losers,&quot; and &quot;middle sets&quot; will change as cards are played; your triple seven starts as a middle set, but as you see the sixes, fives, fours, and threes get played, they will become a winner. I usually keep track of all of the cards rank six or better as they're played, but if your memory is better than mine, you'll keep track of every card played, along with good guesses of who can hold the remaining cards. (It's usually a bad idea to split a set of cards into multiple smaller sets, so if somebody plays a single six, they're almost certainly out of sixes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;A good enough hand&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go out when you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At most one loser (which you'll play last)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Middle sets that you can slip in before playing your winners for that set&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally, have some powerful middle sets: they may not be winners, but nobody wants to expend their &lt;em&gt;own&lt;/em&gt; winners to top them yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enough winners to get all of your middle sets out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Luck: that your winners actually &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; winners, or that the other players don't care to top them at the moment you play them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all's said and done, the distribution of the cards between other players will make or break your attempt to go out. If the cards went weird, or some player tops your triple twelve with a triple nine (preventing you from playing your own triple nine that's a middle set for you), or someone topped your triple three with a triple one when all you have left is your last loser, then all you can do is pick up the pieces and hope next round will go better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Going from the bottom to the top&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jumping from a low position to a high one takes a very lucky hand, and other players that don't care enough to play their high cards early on. As Hackworth says, it takes some large sets of cards, and the ability to gain control. Your &quot;winners&quot; are sets that are 4+ cards apiece, and you have more than one of them. You take control (while hoping against hope that nobody is willing to top your pitiful pair of sixes!), lay down your monster sets, and take your crown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-11-30T21:25:49.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9439" CreationDate="2012-12-01T06:19:22.300" Score="20" ViewCount="4127" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're not allowed to build the same building more than once. I noticed that this rule is easily overlooked, especially in 7-player games and when the table is not that big (and so the cards need to be partly stacked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player has built a building twice, but it is only spotted in the following round(s), what can you do?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard the card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard the card and give the builder 3 gold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the builder choose: discard card for 3 gold OR use the card to build the wonder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the building&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;… something else?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there might be other side effects, as when the builder (or neighbours) already made use of the illegal building. It could be very hard to retrace everything, so I guess it'd be best not to try to undo any side effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-01T09:29:02.700" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T06:10:06.610" Title="What should you do when someone mistakenly builds the same building twice?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9438" CreationDate="2012-12-01T06:34:45.393" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is too late to undo, option 3 is your best bet (assuming they can build their wonder). If it's been more than 2-3 turns, and other people have been using their resources, I might consider letting it stand. Especially true if there are a lot of people who haven't played before in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really it's not the end of the world, unless a player consistently does it (e.g. more than twice) in which case it's probably cheating. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-12-01T11:05:39.870" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T11:05:39.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3201" CreationDate="2012-12-01T13:14:44.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think A&amp;amp;A generally needs more sea conditions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because sea warfare tends to end once a major fleet is destroyed. So how about this for &lt;em&gt;Revised and 1942 only!&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Axis: The unexpected Royal Navy's match&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If German total IPC worth of naval units is higher than that of the UK, Germany gets an extra 3IPCs per round.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;(meant to be an initial boost to german production and an incentive to buy some fleet)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;em&gt;Allies: La Resistance's desperation *&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no allied landings have taken place yet in europe, every round roll a dice ONCE at the end of Americans OR British  combat move phase. On a roll of 6, place an infantry unit in France, thus forcing a combat there or take the territory.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Meant to be a counter to the previous and to have the allies consider delayed or no landings, instead bombing or supporting russi&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T13:14:44.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9438" CreationDate="2012-12-01T15:34:36.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group's practice has been to discard the extra building and treat it as if the player discarded the card for 3 gold. 7 Wonders is a fast game that I try to keep the game moving at a brisk pace, and the 3-gold discard eliminates the extra decisions (should I build a Wonder stage, can I afford to, which neighbor should I pay, wait did my neighbor even have the resources I needed to buy all those turns ago) that would otherwise keep the game waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's relatively rare that there are important side effects that need to be undone (rarely do you need to buy more than one of a resource from a single opponent) but it should be straightforward to reverse a military victory/defeat if there's been an age ending in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T15:34:36.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9436" CreationDate="2012-12-01T15:46:38.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot jump in Descent 2nd Edition. I believe this statement is in the rulebook to notify First Edition players that this is a difference in the editions: you can no longer spend extra movement to jump across a pit you are aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-01T15:46:38.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9444" CreationDate="2012-12-01T20:29:27.140" Score="6" ViewCount="5387" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wonder &lt;strong&gt;Halicarnassus&lt;/strong&gt; has a special ability (second stage on side A, all stages on side B) that lets the player choose a card from the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of building the card for free, can the player also choose to build the wonder (paying the corresponding costs), or to discard the card for 3 gold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T15:48:16.643" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T15:48:16.643" Title="Can you use Halicarnassus' special ability to build the wonder or to discard the card for 3 gold?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9443" CreationDate="2012-12-01T20:29:27.140" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; The special ability can only be used &lt;em&gt;to build&lt;/em&gt; the structure (for free). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; say &quot;build it [the card] for free&quot;, which excludes the other two cases (where you &lt;em&gt;discard&lt;/em&gt; a card, or build &lt;em&gt;a wonder stage&lt;/em&gt;, not the structure/card itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also confirmed by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Using Solomon (take a card from the discard pile and put it in play for free) or stages of Halicarnassus, can I use this card to build a Wonder stage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s the same with &lt;strong&gt;Olympus&lt;/strong&gt; (side A, second stage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only with the special ability of &lt;strong&gt;Babylon&lt;/strong&gt; (side B, second stage) it is possible to build the wonder OR to discard the card OR to build it (paying its costs!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related threads on boardgamegeek.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/813876/halicarnassus-playing-from-the-discard-is-it-l&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halicarnassus - playing from the discard - is it like playing any other card?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/661355/mausoleum-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mausoleum Question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/581915/the-mausoleum-of-halicarnassus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Mausoleum of Halicarnassus?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/752275/olympus-2-stage-wonder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Olympus 2 Stage Wonder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/687714/olympia-board-wonder-2nd-stage-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Olympia board wonder - 2nd stage question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T15:46:31.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9454" CreationDate="2012-12-01T21:02:09.057" Score="5" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up the &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/haggis/id465018604?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iOS port&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37628/haggis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haggis&lt;/a&gt;. Although I own the physical version, and you can play it online at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.boardgamearena.com/#!gamepanel?game=haggis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamearena&lt;/a&gt;, playing versus the iOS AI has been my first experience with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally beat the AI pretty handily at this point but I'm wondering if this is one of those games where the AI employs a strategy that can be successful against novices but cannot compete with even moderately experienced players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3480" LastEditorUserId="3480" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T00:34:42.287" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T14:17:36.560" Title="How good is the AI in the iOS port of Haggis?" Tags="|computer-ai|haggis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-02T02:20:58.670" Score="11" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the special ability of &lt;strong&gt;Babylon&lt;/strong&gt; (side B, 2nd stage) to get a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5140/3532&quot;&gt;7th turn&lt;/a&gt; (EDIT: well, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/10952/3532&quot;&gt;apparently not&lt;/a&gt;) where you are allowed to play your last (7th) card (which would otherwise be discarded). You can use this ability &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/9309/3532&quot;&gt;in each age&lt;/a&gt; (if the 2nd step is built).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does this work in a 2-player game where the 'Free City' (NPC) uses Babylon?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the 2nd wonder stage is already built. It's the 6th turn. Player Bob manages the 'Free City'. After playing his and the NPC's card, he has left 1 card on his hand. The 'Free City' pile has 1 hidden card left. Player Alice has also 1 card left on her hand. Now the NPC gets a 7th turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob plays his last card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob draws the last pile card and chooses which of his two cards to play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob discards his card, draws the last pile card and plays it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob transfers his card to Alice, and Alice …&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;discards her card and plays the one handed over by Bob?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;discards her card, draws the last pile card and chooses which of her two cards to play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice plays her last card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice draws the last pile card and chooses which of her two cards to play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice discards her card, draws the last pile card and plays it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(did I miss a possibility?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even if there would be no choice which card to play, it's still important which player has to play it for the 'Free City' (because this player has to decide whether to build the card or the 3rd wonder stage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the last card of one of the players has to be played, it's important which player's hand is used, because one of the players might have the wonder Halicarnassus (which allows to build discarded cards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T07:45:09.903" Title="'Free City' with Babylon (B): How to play the special ability (2nd stage)?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9438" CreationDate="2012-12-02T06:10:06.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this happens most often with science buildings, which means you won't really have gained any new capabilities with them, we just have the player discard for 3 gold and move on.  The other one that it seems to happen with is basic brown cards, which may have enabled the player to build something they shouldn't have been able to build.  If we can identify any of those buildings, they'll have to hand over payment to a neighbor as well.  That's all the unwinding we've ever done, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastActivityDate="2012-12-02T06:10:06.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9449" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9450" CreationDate="2012-12-03T04:51:04.923" Score="7" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;In cosmic encounter, one player is the Void (destroys ships instead of sending them to the warp), and another player is the Spiff (attacking player still gets a colony if they lose by 10 or more). If the Spiff attack the Void and lose when they have 5+ ships, do they still get a colony, or is the ship that would become the colony destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T08:07:47.860" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T08:07:47.860" Title="Does the Void's power cancel out the Spiff's?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9449" CreationDate="2012-12-03T08:07:32.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ship is destroyed. Both abilities are trying to interact with ships that would be going to the void. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Cosmic%20Encounter/faq/cosmicfaq_v1.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ for the Fantasy Flight&lt;/a&gt; version (the most recent to date),  indicates that &lt;strong&gt;Void&lt;/strong&gt; trumps all other abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Is there an official ruling on Zombie vs Void?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Void trumps Zombie. Zombie's power kicks in when it should go to the warp, however the intent for Void is that it never sends its opponents to the warp at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ruling is not at all obvious when you consider the text on the various cards, and their updated errata. (from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5174376#5174376&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CE Cosmodex&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spiff&lt;/strong&gt; - Receives Colony as Loser (G) You have the power to Crash Land. As the offense, if both players revealed attack cards and {your total was 10 or more less than the defense's} you lost the encounter by 10 or more, you may use this power to land one of your ships that would otherwise be lost to the warp on the winning planet. {The ship coexists with the ships already there. This power does not allow you to coexist in places or with aliens that state otherwise.}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Void&lt;/strong&gt; - Eradicates Opponents' Ships (R) You have the power to Eradicate. As a main player, when you win an encounter, use this power to remove the losing side's ships from the game rather than sending them to the warp. This occurs before any other game effects that affect ships headed to the warp. A player cannot be reduced to fewer ships than the number of foreign colonies needed to win the game. Any eradicated ships that would reduce a player below this number are sent to the warp as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T08:07:32.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9462" CreationDate="2012-12-03T13:57:45.753" Score="11" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I've placed settlements in two separate forests. In both forests there are still (more than) 3 fields free. Now I draw another forest card and have to place my 3 settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZN4ni.png&quot; alt=&quot;initial situation (9 settlements already placed)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I allowed to split my 3 settlements and place 1 settlement in terrain A and 2 settlements in terrain B?&lt;/strong&gt; (next to my other settlements, of course)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I have to build these 3 settlements in the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; forest terrain, if possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T14:16:04.143" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T22:14:32.780" Title="Is splitting your 3 settlements allowed?" Tags="|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9452" CreationDate="2012-12-03T14:01:16.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you are next to your existing settlements and the terrain types match the card, there is no requirement that the three settlements that you play be in the same physical piece of terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T14:01:16.293" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9445" CreationDate="2012-12-03T14:17:36.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My perspective is having never played Haggis until i played it on the ipad.  I have quite a bit of Tichu experience.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The AI offered competition to me for about 5 games.  After that i can beat it 4/5 of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So overall i think it is a good way to learn the game, but will not help you get ahead online&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T14:17:36.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9457" CreationDate="2012-12-03T21:55:53.950" Score="13" ViewCount="10096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across this issue with my friend a while ago and came up with many possible answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How many golems will you get if you copy &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Precursor%20Golem&quot;&gt;Precursor Golem&lt;/a&gt; with a kicked &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rite%20of%20Replication&quot;&gt;Rite of Replication&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T21:32:11.820" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T17:48:07.697" Title="What happens when I copy Precursor Golem with Rite of Replication?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9455" CreationDate="2012-12-03T22:13:53.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a kicked Rite of Replication, you will get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 new golems for each Precursor Golem on the battlefield (Five new Precursor Golems which will create two Golem tokens each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 new golems for each other golem on the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have a Precorsor golem and the two tokens it created, you will get 25 new golems for a total of 28 golems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Your Rite of Replication will be copied for any golems other players control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1787" LastEditorUserId="1787" LastEditDate="2012-12-03T22:24:26.497" LastActivityDate="2012-12-03T22:24:26.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9455" CreationDate="2012-12-03T22:17:48.923" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer, assuming that your Precursor Golem still has (exactly) his two buddies with him: 28.  The sequence goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rite of Replication (kicked) targets Precursor Golem.  Note that the text of Rite now effectively reads '&lt;em&gt;Put five tokens that are copies of target creature onto the battlefield&lt;/em&gt;', and the copies of Rite of Replication will all copy that version of the text.  (From rule 706.10: &quot;A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, targets, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs.&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precursor Golem's ability copies Rite and targets the 'lesser' golems (the ones without the 'make extra golems' ability); note that these copies of Rite go on the stack &lt;em&gt;on top of&lt;/em&gt; the original Rite (this isn't relevant here, but can be if you kick another Rite!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The copies of Rite resolve, each one making an additional five 'dumb' golems; this puts 10 new golems into play.  You now have 1 Precursor Golem and 12 'dumb' golems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The original Rite resolves, making five additional Precursor Golems.  Each of the five 'make two dumb golems' abilities of these new Precursor Golems goes on the stack.  Right now you have 6 Precursor Golems and 12 dumb golems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new Precursors' token-making abilities resolve, giving you 10 more dumb golems.  You end up with 6 Precursor Golems and 22 dumb golems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this - well, beyond this things get interesting.  The next step in the sequence - a second kicked Rite - brings you up to more than four &lt;em&gt;million&lt;/em&gt; Golems; for the details, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1L_FIQrjBdh5J66KKAT2JJ2gTx1KfbXJUfXrdydjzhrY/edit&quot;&gt;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1L_FIQrjBdh5J66KKAT2JJ2gTx1KfbXJUfXrdydjzhrY/edit&lt;/a&gt; - which also goes into what happens if you kick yet a third Rite...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-12-05T02:19:32.203" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T02:19:32.203" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9458" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9459" CreationDate="2012-12-03T23:50:53.470" Score="19" ViewCount="5833" Body="&lt;p&gt;In playing Scrabble with friends, where can I find a dictionary that doesn't contain the ridiculous two-letter words that turn the game into a contest to see who has spent the most time reading the official Scrabble dictionary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd want present-day words, but don't want words like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ee: The sound made to say the letter 'E'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that even online resources have been pandering to the hardcore Scrabble crowd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3589" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-12-04T14:43:42.353" LastActivityDate="2021-07-09T10:52:03.120" Title="Dictionary for Scrabble that doesn't contain ridiculous words" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9458" CreationDate="2012-12-04T00:06:23.213" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every dictionary has words that would be considered &quot;ridiculous&quot; in it. You can choose to have an arbitrary subset of ridiculous words, but that doesn't really improve the situation any. Most of these are in every reasonably-sized dictionary anyway (e.g. how do you feel about ZAX?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a small enough number of 2-letter words that you can ban them on an individual basis (i.e. no QI, XU, XI, or ZA), or make a whitelist (these are the only 2-letter words we're allowing). If you do this and just use the regular Scrabble dictionary for everything else, you'll substantially lessen the edge of people who study the official word list, without suffering the problems of using a small dictionary that might exclude actual words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T00:06:23.213" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9458" CreationDate="2012-12-04T00:25:42.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like &lt;strong&gt;Ryan Cavanaugh&lt;/strong&gt;'s suggestion of eliminating all/most 2 letter words. The board game &lt;strong&gt;Upwords&lt;/strong&gt; does something similar to this by requiring that when changing a word (upward), you must use two tiles as a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably should blacklist all &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabblepages.com/scrabble/words/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2-letter words, and their 3-letter plurals&lt;/a&gt;, or at least the high value ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;JO, KA, KI, QI, EX, XI, XU, ZA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KAS, KIS, QIS, XIS, ZAS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you either choose to whitelist any of those 2-letter words that everyone know the definition of to prove they aren't archaic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T00:30:44.467" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9452" CreationDate="2012-12-04T03:31:57.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hymie's answer is completely correct. Quoting from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/70570/kingdom-builder-english-rules&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the 3 settlements must be built successively &lt;em&gt;one after the other&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Kingdom_Builder_FAQ#&quot;&gt;BGG FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no rule that you must necessarily place your 3 settlements in a single contiguous group (though sometimes you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt;, and sometimes you may &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T03:31:57.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9458" CreationDate="2012-12-04T09:49:34.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't cause too many fights, and you're only playing casually, &lt;strong&gt;you could allow/disallow words democratically&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player uses &quot;QI&quot; and the other players decide it's &quot;ridiculous&quot;, then they must take it back. If it's a word like &quot;QI&quot; which normally is valid (as opposed to &quot;SPLUX&quot; or &quot;DEFKASARJ&quot; which are not valid by any metric) you could allow the player to play a different word instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T09:49:34.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9458" CreationDate="2012-12-04T10:36:27.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking as a bit of a two-letter word aficionado, I like the nonsensical colourfulness of the competitive Scrabble player's vocabulary, but given that you don't... there is absolutely nothing stopping you from using a (relatively) small and concise dictionary, of the kind that you can buy for cheap at any bookshop.  These dictionaries are guaranteed not to have anything remotely off-the-wall in them, so should meet your purposes admirably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm definitely against proposals such as &quot;ban all two letter words&quot;.  There's nothing intrinsically weirder about the word EE than the word MBAQANGA or QIVIUT, and I've played all of those in real Scrabble games.  If you're going to ban two-letter words for being too arcane, then you'll just start having the same problems with 3-letter words that cross that line.  (Why should EE be banned and not its plural, EEN?)  No, just play with an ordinary concise edition of a dictionary, and if a word that's &lt;em&gt;obviously&lt;/em&gt; fine turns out not to be in it, just don't challenge that word.  If your opponent insists on abusing the challenge rule to chase off perfectly good words, then do the same back!  And also start looking for someone new and more reasonable to play Scrabble with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T10:36:27.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-04T12:06:30.843" Score="9" ViewCount="1644" Body="&lt;p&gt;What cards should a good cube supporting reanimator decks contain? Which ones are crucial and what's extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure there are at least 3 types of cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reanimation&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;E.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20dead&quot;&gt;Animate dead&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necromancy&quot;&gt;Necromancy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Put-em-in-the-yard:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;E.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entomb&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Careful%20study&quot;&gt;Careful study&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Targets:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;E.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Akroma%2C%20Angel%20of%20Wrath&quot;&gt;Akroma, Angel of Wrath&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's best in each category and am I missing anything? How many cards of each type are needed in a 540 cube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:08:24.553" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:16:43.693" Title="Cards for Reanimator in Cube" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9465" CreationDate="2012-12-04T16:17:52.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As this question is currently worded, it's not a good fit for the site. However, the question of &quot;What factors should one consider when building a cube&quot; isn't a terrible one, and it's one you need to step through in order to answer your question anyway, so that's the angle I'll approach it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to make a cube with a theme, you should consider adding some theme-hate. So you have three ways to get cards from the graveyard to the battlefield. Do you have ways to stop people from doing that? Cards that empty graveyards (with exile) are a great fit. They fit in nicely with your theme in that situational cards are now incredibly relevant, and allows you to have an answer for very powerful cards. Remember that one of the defining characteristics of Magic from its inception is the notion that if you're still playing, you can still win: coming back with an awesome bomb completely changes the board position. (Realistically, that isn't always true... but it is true that every element that enters a set has a counter to it. Unless development screws up and makes another Jace or something...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how many cards, that is a very tricky question to answer. Let's consider the population: you have 540 cards. How many of each color are you going to have? Maybe about 100 of each and 40 colorless? If that's the case, how many blue, white, red, and green reanimator are you going to have? Are there even 500 reanimator-themed cards you'd want to play? I'm not convinced there are. I suspect you're going to need more along the lines of 15 distinct themes (that's still 30 cards per theme) in addition to some vanilla or non-theme creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is, building a good cube is not easy. Consider the difference between building a standard deck (one very focused theme, 36 spells, 10-12 unique spells) and a commander deck (one loose theme, 4 or 5 mechanics that synergize well but were originally unrelated, 60 spells, 60 unique spells). Well now you're building a 5 color, 30 theme deck with between 540 unique spells!! By my estimation, about 10 times more difficult than a good commander deck. And if you've ever played commander, you know the first time you play a commander deck, you go &quot;What was I thinking? This card sucks in this deck!&quot; How much complex will the playtesting be to make a good cube?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not saying this to discourage you, but just to prepare you for the task at hand. Even leaning more toward one color, I still wouldn't suggest having more than 25% of the cube be a single color, and that can make &quot;single-theming&quot; very difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T16:17:52.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9458" CreationDate="2012-12-04T21:19:21.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could have a house rule that you can only play a word if you can give  (a reasonable close version of) the definition.  That would eliminate the problem of players who memorise the word lists, but still leaves you with a general problem that somebody with a larger vocabulary will play a word his opponent hasn't heard of.  I don't think that's soluble: it's a word game, after all, and it's the reason why 'a specific dictionary' is used in the first place.  It also would permit EE, since the player has just placed two -well, what would you call them if not &lt;em&gt;ees&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2012-12-04T21:19:21.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="197" CreationDate="2012-12-05T18:17:35.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing an FAQ somewhere that addressed this. No effect can move a player from detention/the brig short of a political card providing the means for it, or passing the skill check. That's it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2812" LastActivityDate="2012-12-05T18:17:35.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2012-12-06T04:26:27.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this game. It is called Fore-par table golf.  It was made by world wide games Inc. out of Delaware OH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is made of all wood and is very durable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3599" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T14:09:35.243" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T14:09:35.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9465" CreationDate="2012-12-06T08:05:55.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Important cards to consider (if you like the most powerful ones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reanimation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reanimate&quot;&gt;Reanimate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exhume&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Recurring%20Nightmare&quot;&gt;Recurring Nightmare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20dead&quot;&gt;Animate dead&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dance%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Dance of the Dead&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=292976&amp;amp;part=Death&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Life/Death&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Put-em-in-the-yard:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entomb&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Careful%20study&quot;&gt;Careful study&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thirst%20for%20Knowledge&quot;&gt;Thirst for Knowledge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undead%20Gladiator&quot;&gt;Undead Gladiator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aquamoeba&quot;&gt;Aquamoeba&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Targets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Akroma (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;white&lt;/a&gt; &amp;gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247358&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;red&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellkite%20Overlord&quot;&gt;Hellkite Overlord&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Empyral%20Archangel&quot;&gt;Empyral Archangel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angel%20of%20Despair&quot;&gt;Angel of Despair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Verdant%20Force&quot;&gt;Verdant Force&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inkwell%20Leviathan&quot;&gt;Inkwell Leviathan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reya%20Dawnbringer&quot;&gt;Reya Dawnbringer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Akroma%2C%20Angel%20of%20Fury&quot;&gt;Akroma, Angel of Fury&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iona%2C%20Shield%20of%20Emeria&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like some of them to be castable in control / artifacts decks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundering%20Titan&quot;&gt;Sundering Titan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Emperion&quot;&gt;Platinum Emperion&lt;/a&gt;  / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tombstalker&quot;&gt;Tombstalker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Eternal Dragon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rorix%20Bladewing&quot;&gt;Rorix Bladewing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1150" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:16:43.693" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:16:43.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9472" CreationDate="2012-12-06T14:15:24.267" Score="4" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm white player and I draw a desert card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PheeI.png&quot; alt=&quot;step 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I place my three settlements there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fhQrS.png&quot; alt=&quot;step 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I use my special ability to move any settlement to a desert field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNyYy.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I choose the settlement on the right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6JSG4.png&quot; alt=&quot;step 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is: &lt;strong&gt;Can I place this settlement on a different desert terrain OR do I have to place it on the same place where I took it from?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't built on (or next to) any other desert fields yet. So the only adjacent desert field would be that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-12-06T15:18:30.927" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:18:30.927" Title="Check for adjacency after or before using a moving tile?" Tags="|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9471" CreationDate="2012-12-06T14:15:24.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Kingdom_Builder_FAQ#toc38&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek FAQ&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Harbor and Barn: Adjacency is checked when placing the piece&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Check for eligible hexes after picking up the settlement to move. E.g. if you place 3 settlements together on 3 canyon hexes and now have no settlements adjacent to any canyon hexes, and then you pick up one of those settlements with the Barn, then you have to put the settlement right back on the hex it came from, since that is an empty canyon hex next to one of your settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It links to a thread where the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7596317#7596317&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game designer confirmed it&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Moving a piece means picking it up and then placing it. Adjacency is checked when placing the piece, which is after removing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, you can't place this settlement on a different desert terrain. You &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to place it on the very same field you took it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T14:15:24.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9475" CreationDate="2012-12-06T14:54:23.560" Score="8" ViewCount="2491" Body="&lt;p&gt;On BrettspielWelt, I played Olympia (B) and built the 3rd wonder stage (copy a guild). The end score confused me, and I think BSW might have implemented the scoring wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were 3 players. Everyone had &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; guild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red had the science guild:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Uj28t.png&quot; alt=&quot;Red player&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qQQWf.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green (me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/memRU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, Red got no guild points. So I assume these are included in the score for science cards (didn't screenshot his science cards, unfortunately).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue got 5 guild points, which is correct (Red had 3 yellow cards, Green had 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I (Green) got 10 guild points. &lt;strong&gt;How comes that?&lt;/strong&gt; My own guild card gave me 6 points (2 browns + 3 greys + 1 purple). Now I get a guild card copy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I'd copy Blue's guild, I'd get 4 points (Red's 3 yellow cards + Blue's 1 yellow card). Ha. That would be 10 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;But if I'd copy Red's guild, I'd have completed two science sets. So with this guild, I should have got 31 science points (instead of my 21).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something or is this a bug on BrettspielWelt? &lt;strong&gt;Why did the system copy Blue's guild for me, instead of Red's guild (which would have made me the winner)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:35:37.520" Title="7 Wonders scoring question (Olympia B, copying a guild) on BSW" Tags="|online|7-wonders|scoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9471" CreationDate="2012-12-06T15:01:23.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question, as asked, is &quot;The settlement must go back to where you picked it up from.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your question includes this phrase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I haven't built on any other desert fields yet. So the only neighbouring desert field would be that one.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not the correct rule.  Perhaps you meant to say that you haven't built on &lt;strong&gt;or next to&lt;/strong&gt; any other desert fields.  If you've built next to other desert fields, then your settlement could be moved to a desert field next to those settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:01:23.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9473" CreationDate="2012-12-06T15:32:52.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with your assessment of how the scoring should've played out, so I would guess it is a bug, likely because copying that guild gives you 0 purple points so it thought that Blue's guild was better (failing to recognize that it gave you more science points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:32:52.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9473" CreationDate="2012-12-06T15:35:37.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, it should have copied Red's guild card for you. I can't think of any reason it shouldn't. I've never used BSW, but I'm assuming it makes this choice automatically. It sounds like a bug to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope their logic isn't looking at the value of the guild card, as scored by the owner, in order to determine which one is best for Olympia. As that would be incorrect for all guild cards (I think).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T15:35:37.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9465" CreationDate="2012-12-06T17:02:56.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you need to do is decide which colors you want to support the reanimator theme in. Black is the go to answer, but there are solid reanimation options in white as well. Enablers are going to be mostly blue or green. Once you know the color options, then envision what you want a good reanimator deck to look like in your cube. Do you want it to be a Legacy styled combo deck that can have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Griselbrand&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt; on the field on turn 2, or do you want it to be a much more grindy Rec-Sur styled GB deck? You can also use cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=97193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Debtor's Knell&lt;/a&gt; that give a good value BW deck an awesome late game by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balancing cards that can be used in both a dedicated reanimator strategy and other strategies is important. Cards that discard for a benefit, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146582&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oona's Prowler&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotleth%20Troll&quot;&gt;Lotleth Troll&lt;/a&gt; are perfect for this. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Survival%20of%20the%20Fittest&quot;&gt;Survival of the Fittest&lt;/a&gt; like cards are strategies to themselves, and just get better with a few reanimation cards. Draw/Discard cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thirst%20for%20Knowledge&quot;&gt;Thirst for Knowledge&lt;/a&gt; fit great into reanimator decks as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know what you want your decks to look like, and you have a list of cards you want to include, then all that's left is to find slots in the cube and playtest. Force the strategy a few times, and see if you feel like you're getting enough support. Let others draft and see how often the strategy is taken, and how often it wins. If it's too powerful, cut back cards or add dedicated GY hate*. If its too weak, then add more support cards. If it's good but under-drafted by your group, then bean them with it a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*A note about dedicated GY hate - I don't recommend adding these cards to begin with. They're dead cards more often than they're used. Instead try things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scavenging%20Ooze&quot;&gt;Scavenging Ooze&lt;/a&gt; (or if you're like me have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Awakening&quot;&gt;Helm of Awakening&lt;/a&gt; in your cube...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3086" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:11:17.263" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:11:17.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3397" CreationDate="2012-12-06T21:45:19.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to trade my coppers to silvers early in the game so I have a more consistent set of resources.  Later in the game, I prefer exchanging my silver for gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3601" LastActivityDate="2012-12-06T21:45:19.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9507" CreationDate="2012-12-07T14:04:44.243" Score="8" ViewCount="781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that occupying the corners is desirable, as a counter placed there can never be flipped. Also, placing a counter on a square next to a corner seems to be bad as it usually hands the corner to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other tactics are useful to know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2012-12-07T14:15:55.833" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T10:03:45.020" Title="Tactics for Othello" Tags="|tactics|othello|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-08-15T23:32:31.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9481" CreationDate="2012-12-07T15:32:35.077" Score="7" ViewCount="3258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/209.html&quot;&gt;Gisela, Blade of Goldnight&lt;/a&gt; in play and my opponent controls &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/bok/en/107.html&quot;&gt;Heartless Hidetsugu&lt;/a&gt;. We both have 20 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Heartless Hidetsugu is tapped, each player takes 10 damage, which is half of their life. Gisela doubles the damage my opponent takes, so that 10 becomes 20. Gisela also halves the damage that I take, so I take 5 instead of 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct, or am I missing something? If this works, the Heartless Hidetsugu will always kill opponents with &lt;em&gt;even&lt;/em&gt; life totals while Gisela is in play. If they have an &lt;em&gt;odd&lt;/em&gt; life total, then they will be reduced to one life instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T15:41:00.540" Title="How do Heartless Hidetsugu and Gisela interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9480" CreationDate="2012-12-07T15:41:00.540" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't miss anything. Wizards preempted this with their ruling on Gisela&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gisela doubles damage dealt to opponents and permanents your opponents control from any source, &lt;strong&gt;including sources controlled by those opponents&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's pretty straightforward: double of a half is a whole. As you noted, the rounding could put it at 1 instead of 0, but you're playing red: surely you have 1 point of burn somewhere in your deck, right? :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no rules that say &amp;quot;Super-powerful combos aren't permitted&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, your opponent would be incredibly unwise to tap it, although you could always &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; it and tap it yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T15:41:00.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2012-12-07T19:12:28.720" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we only have time for a short game, we will eliminate the robber and allow each play to take a resource of their choice on roll of 7.  It cuts the time a lot, and eliminates a lot of frustration when playing with people who are inexperienced with the game.&#xA;(I like the using a city for the second settlement idea, and the gold if no resources.  I want to try them!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3608" LastActivityDate="2012-12-07T19:12:28.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9485" CreationDate="2012-12-07T20:33:57.160" Score="5" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monopoly City can I buy a district after landing there taking the train via a station? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I rolled the dice, went forward and ended up on a district owned by me that includes a train station. I decided to take the train to &lt;em&gt;Diamond Hills&lt;/em&gt; which had a train station as well, but was not owned by anyone yet. Can I now purchase &lt;em&gt;Diamond Hills&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T19:55:39.497" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T19:55:39.497" Title="Can I buy a district after landing there by taking the train?" Tags="|monopoly-city|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-08T01:49:56.967" Score="19" ViewCount="1210" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Islam, there are a number of reports (of variable grades of authenticity) that the prophet Muhammad either forbade or explicitly disliked the playing of chess.  As is known, he was centered in what is now known as Saudi Arabia during the seventh century; while he may have known about chess as it was played in India, or China, that doesn't necessarily reflect how chess was played in Arabia during his rule.  The colored areas in the following map (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spread_of_Islam&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;courtesy Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;), especially those in brown, represent the regions he was most likely familiar with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Balzg.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spread of Islam&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Islamic scholars have, as is their wont, attempted to derive rulings from (or in spite of) these reports as to whether playing chess itself &lt;em&gt;halal&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;haram&lt;/em&gt;, and this is an issue on which there is no scholarly consensus.  Even assuming that the reports themselves are deemed authentic, it is difficult to come up with a ruling as it is less clear &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; such a discouragement was originally made; this is especially important when attempting to derive rulings of analogous situations.  Three major interpretations that I have seen posited are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to the fact that (some of) the pieces are carved in the shapes of living creatures, it is merely an extension of the ruling regarding graven images.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a form of entertainment (i.e. distraction) with no discernible benefit, so it is merely discouraged (but not outright forbidden) as a waste of time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It an extension of the prohibition on gambling, as people would wager on the outcome of such games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own personal theory &amp;mdash; and I am hardly an Islamic scholar &amp;mdash; is based on the fact that similar reports are made discouraging and/or forbidding games of dice (especially backgammon): Such games where the outcome is based on chance would fall under (or at least encroach on) the prohibition against divination by arrows (i.e. a practice similar to &quot;drawing the short straw&quot; for decision-making).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, modern chess has no element of random chance; it is a perfect-knowledge game in which the outcome can be based entirely on skill, in which case my own interpretation doesn't really make much sense.  However, as the intellectual benefits of modern chess have received significant study (which would fly against the second scholarly opinion listed above), and even though gambling on games does exist, it is hardly the predominant goal of playing nowadays (which would fly against the third), it seems clear that what is now known as chess is not necessarily the same as what was known as chess back then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do, however, know that modern chess did not arrive from whole cloth; like many games, it evolved over centuries to become the game we see today.  I know I have personally played (what is claimed to be) a dice-based precursor to chess that called itself Chatranga (although a bit of Wikipedia research suggests it was actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaturaji&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chaturaji&lt;/a&gt;).  As such, it is feasible that whatever variant of chess was popular in the Arab world during the seventh (and possibly early eighth) century could involve randomization in some form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the question lies thus: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What flavour of chess was predominant in the early Islamic world during the time of Muhammad himself (570-630CE), as represented by the above map?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T15:06:56.197" Title="What form of chess was played in seventh-century Arabia?" Tags="|chess|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9483" CreationDate="2012-12-08T03:37:07.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the rules specifically tell you you can. Under the &lt;em&gt;Where Did You Land&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/dad288661c4311ddbd0b0800200c9a66/426C634219B9F3691090C1DA1F9FAF9F.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;section on (page 7)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A district you own:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do nothing unless there is a railroad on it. If so, you can immediately move to any other district with a railroad on it and buy it or auction it (if it is unowned) or pay rent (if it belongs to another player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T09:54:36.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9484" CreationDate="2012-12-08T04:00:17.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has an entry on the History of Chess. It states that the differences between what is now modern chess began in Europe in the 15th century. Besides the name changes for the pieces, the rules differed. The section covering &lt;a href=&quot;http://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_chess#The_Indo-Arabic_game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Indo-Arabic game&lt;/a&gt; appears to reference, Murray H.J.R. 1913. The history of chess. Oxford. reprint ISBN 0-936317-01-9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In early chess the moves of the pieces were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shāh: as King now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firzān: one square diagonally at a time (contrast modern Q).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fīl: two squares diagonally (no more or less), but could jump over a piece in between (contrast modern B). This move meant that an individual fīl could move to only eight squares on the board, and no fīl could ever attack another fīl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Horseman): as Knight now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rukh: as Rook now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pawn: one square forwards (not two), capturing one square diagonally forward; promoted to firzān only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game could be won by 1. Mating the king; 2. By giving stalemate; 3. By capturing all the opponent's pieces. This kept down the number of draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Murray book in its entirety is out of copyright, I found this section regarding &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.archive.org/stream/islaminindiaorqa00sharuoft/islaminindiaorqa00sharuoft_djvu.txt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Islam in India&lt;/a&gt;. He notes that the prophet supposedly denounced the game, and the difference in rules covered above on the Wikipedia page. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://asiasociety.org/countries/traditions/endgame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;other site&lt;/a&gt; notes that Murray objects to the belief that Mohammed would have seen chess played in his lifetime, since the game is of Indian/Persian origin, and wouldn't have spread to the Islamic world until the fall of Persia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;most probably the Prophet had never heard of the existence of chess, since the Muhammadan jurists have been unable to settle the question of the legality of chess-playing by any direct decision of Muhammad as recorded in the Qur'an, or in authentic tradition. (HJR Murray 187.)&amp;quot; It is difficult to state with any great certainty that chess was played in Arabia during the Prophet's lifetime; chess was after all an Indo-Iranian invention, and it is not unreasonable to assume that it entered Arabian culture through the conquest of Egypt and Western Asia after the Prophet's death. However, it is clear that chess had gained tremendous popularity amongst all classes and social spheres by the time of the Abbasid Caliphate, which took power in the year 750, still very early in Islamic history. It was at this time that religious scholars began to question the legality of playing chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T11:33:34.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9479" CreationDate="2012-12-08T22:37:36.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &quot;Go for corners&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't take edge spaces adjacent to opponent pieces. Your opponent can usually just capture them. There are (rare) times to do so, but those times usually are ones which allow capturing the corner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-12-08T22:37:36.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9490" CreationDate="2012-12-09T00:53:45.707" Score="7" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the latest German edition of Citadels, there is an action card &lt;code&gt;Circus Tent&lt;/code&gt;. It is played from your hand without paying any gold (and in addition to your normal building action). It's text says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can put the Circus Tent in front of you. At the end of the game it counts as a building without points and without color. It cannot be destroyed by the Warlord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to have more than one of these in your city?&lt;/strong&gt; This is not allowed for &quot;normal&quot; districts, but the card only states that it counts as a district &lt;code&gt;at the end of the game&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="3262" LastEditDate="2012-12-10T21:17:08.000" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T21:20:50.427" Title="Citadels: Can two Circus Tents be built in the same city?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9488" CreationDate="2012-12-09T01:33:48.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd be inclined to say no for two reasons: first because allowing more than one of them seems to make them a bit too powerful; secondly, because unless the text on the card explicitly says you can build more than one of them, I'd suspect the intention should have been that no, you couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="862" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T01:33:48.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9488" CreationDate="2012-12-09T03:09:40.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say technically yes, but that it wouldn't be as much of an advantage as it initially seems. Going from a purely literal interpretation of the rules you are right that the Circus Tent is an action and doesn't count as a building until the end of the game. That would lead me to say that during play having more than one is allowable. However, having two (or 3 as there are 3 in the deck) of your city elements leading to ending the game being worth no points and not counting toward any of your bonuses (except perhaps the 4 points for being the first to complete 8 buildings) seems to limit the usefulness of such a tactic. Especially since they would have been worth one point in your hand at the end of the game anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that said, it is enough of a rules interpretation required issue that disallowing it would not be any sort of stretch either as it may very well have not been intended to be used that way regardless of how it was worded. Also, I think once this tactic is used in a game or two I believe it would be revealed rather quickly whether allowing this is unbalanced or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3611" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T03:09:40.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9458" CreationDate="2012-12-09T03:42:06.183" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; A solution that doesn't change the rules of the game is to provide all players with a list of all valid two-letter words. I have tried this methodology and it works fairly well for equalizing the playing field which is part of the subtext of the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Explanation:&lt;/strong&gt; One of the underlying problems of your question is the line between casual Scrabble players and those that do (or have at some point) taken it more seriously. I was a casual player up until the point where I discovered an PC version of the game that had a training mode. It grilled you on two-letter word combinations until you had them all memorized and then started grilling you on three-letter word combinations (I never memorized all of those.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this, my Scrabble playing was never the same, nor was it strictly much of a contest anymore when playing against &quot;casual&quot; players. The trick wasn't playing one ridiculous two-letter word, it was find a way to play one long word alongside another with 4 or 5 two-letter words mixed in, making use of several that you would dub ridiculous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason providing the word list works well is because you are really only helping with a small subset of lesser known two-letter words. This takes the advantage away from the non-casual players and forces them to rely on their other Scrabble skills...or at least forces them to start practicing their three-letter words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other consideration of this method is that all players will eventually have learned the two-letter words well enough to stop providing the word list as it has done its job and helped all players be on &quot;equal&quot; footing again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AA  AB&lt;/strong&gt;  AD  &lt;strong&gt;AE  AG&lt;/strong&gt;  AH  &lt;strong&gt;AI  AL&lt;/strong&gt;  AM  AN  &lt;strong&gt;AR&lt;/strong&gt;  AS  AT  AW  AX  AY  BA  BE  &lt;strong&gt;BI&lt;/strong&gt;  BO&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BY  &lt;strong&gt;DE&lt;/strong&gt;  DO  ED  &lt;strong&gt;EF&lt;/strong&gt;  EH  &lt;strong&gt;EL  EM&lt;/strong&gt;  EN  ER  &lt;strong&gt;ES  ET&lt;/strong&gt;  EX  FA  GO  HA  HE  HI  &lt;strong&gt;HM&lt;/strong&gt;  HO&lt;br&gt;&#xA;ID  IF  IN  IS  IT  &lt;strong&gt;JO  KA&lt;/strong&gt;  LA  &lt;strong&gt;LI&lt;/strong&gt;  LO  MA  ME  MI  &lt;strong&gt;MM&lt;/strong&gt;  MO  MU  MY  NA  &lt;strong&gt;NE&lt;/strong&gt;  NO&lt;br&gt;&#xA;NU  &lt;strong&gt;OD  OE&lt;/strong&gt;  OF  OH  &lt;strong&gt;OM&lt;/strong&gt;  ON  OP  OR  &lt;strong&gt;OS&lt;/strong&gt;  OW  OX  &lt;strong&gt;OY&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;PA  PE&lt;/strong&gt;  PI  &lt;strong&gt;RE  SH&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;strong&gt;SI&lt;/strong&gt;  SO&lt;br&gt;&#xA;TA  TI  TO  UH  UM  UN  UP  US  &lt;strong&gt;UT&lt;/strong&gt;  WE  &lt;strong&gt;WO  XI  XU&lt;/strong&gt;  YA  YE  YO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have bolded most of the two-letter words that I would have not known for sure were valid prior to &quot;studying&quot;. Feel free to do your own count to see how many words you get help from if the list were in your hands during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to site that talks about allowed two and three letter words.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://phrontistery.info/scrabble3.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://phrontistery.info/scrabble3.html&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Here is a club list that has definitions as well&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yak.net/kablooey/scrabble/2letterwords.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.yak.net/kablooey/scrabble/2letterwords.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, wanted to give credit to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2007/steven-stadnicki&quot;&gt;Steven Stadnicki&lt;/a&gt; as this answer mirrors his suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3611" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-12-09T03:54:41.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9492" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9493" CreationDate="2012-12-10T10:48:43.677" Score="12" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you would play a game with 3 people (let's call them A, B, and C) and A and B have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lighthouse%20chronologist&quot;&gt;Lighthouse chronologist&lt;/a&gt;, will this make A get a turn after B, and make B get a turn after A without C getting a turn in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the turns would go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A end turn: B gets an extra turn from his Lighthouse Chronologist&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B end turn: A gets an extra turn from his Lighthouse Chronologist&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct and will this put C out of play (assuming he has no mana or instants)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T02:24:50.767" LastActivityDate="2017-05-09T02:24:50.767" Title="If there are two Lighthouse Chronologist with three players, will one player be pereptually skipped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9492" CreationDate="2012-12-10T12:27:45.733" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is correct. Here's a ruling on it from Gatherer (Emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer game, if multiple players each control a level 7 Lighthouse Chronologist, extra turns may sometimes be created faster than they can be taken. Keep track of them carefully. If multiple Chronologist's abilities trigger during the same turn, the player whose turn would show up sooner in the natural turn order will get the first extra turn. For example, say Players B and C each control a level 7 Lighthouse Chronologist. Player A takes a turn. The game will proceed like this (with extra turns in brackets): Player A's current turn, [Player B's turn], [Player C's turn], [Player B's turn], [Player C's turn], and so on. Because Players B and C will each add another extra turn after the other player's extra turn, &lt;strong&gt;Player A will not take another turn as long as both level 7 Lighthouse Chronologists remain on the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wow, sucks to be player A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T12:27:45.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9499" CreationDate="2012-12-10T13:06:07.463" Score="5" ViewCount="4206" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played our first two rounds of Descent a few days ago and we (3 heroes) always lost against the Overlord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue we experienced was the summoning of enemies in direct attack distance (still out of sight, but around a corner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were arguing about whether the Overlord can summon &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; move/attack his new summoned fellows in the same round but we couldn't find anything that clarified this in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea which edition we played, but I think it was 1E...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3617" LastEditorUserId="3617" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T11:55:55.553" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T11:20:08.077" Title="Spawn rules for the Overlord" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9510" CreationDate="2012-12-10T17:47:12.233" Score="10" ViewCount="2338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a hypothetical situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 12 houses left in the bank.  Alice states she wishes to buy 6 of them for her red property group for $900.  Bob owns the light blues with 3 hotels, and states that he wants to sell his hotels down to 4 houses each to get $75 cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?  These actions would require 18 houses and there are only 12 in the bank, so the rules state there is an auction for those houses, but how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:07:03.270" Title="Buying houses and selling hotels in a housing shortage" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9347" CreationDate="2012-12-10T20:14:48.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sides are pretty imbalanced - with about one exception (I forget which, and depends on Leaders expansion) B is far stronger.  In general it's a poorly balanced game but forcing some players to side A and some to side B only exacerbates this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3619" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T20:14:48.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9488" CreationDate="2012-12-10T21:20:50.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed, that the rules explicitly allow multiple circus tents in one city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also noted, that only one of them may be built in every players move (even if he is the architect), because only one action card per round is allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for missing this when reading the the rules before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2012-12-10T21:20:50.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9494" CreationDate="2012-12-11T01:43:39.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you weren't sure which version you played, I'll post my answers for both editions, although i'm significantly more familiar with 1E rules than 2E.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent/descentrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First Edition Descent Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The overlords turn consists of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 1: Collect Threat and Draw Cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Step 2: Spawn Monsters&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Step 3: Activate Monsters &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You spawn monsters &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; you activate them, where activating them is considered moving and attacking.  Again, this is for 1st edition, and I haven't played second edition so I'm not familiar with the 2E rules and the PDF doesn't want to load for me right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent-second-ed/support/DJ01_Rulebook_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Second Edition Descent Rules&lt;/a&gt; seem to imply that you place and activate the monsters at the same time, in their respective groups(p. 8 &amp;amp; 16).  The FAQ doesn't have a specific clarification on the issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would honestly be surprised if the overlord wasn't able to place and activate monsters in the same turn.  In 1E, you only expect monsters to last a round or two when thrown into direct combat with the players so I would expect the same from 2E.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3189" LastEditorUserId="3189" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T02:00:13.717" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T02:00:13.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4386" CreationDate="2012-12-11T04:17:57.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of the Quarmageddon expansion, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/quarma/QuarmageddonRulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; has been &lt;strong&gt;updated&lt;/strong&gt;. The change is this: dice (such as Portals) that are spent during the turn are placed into a separate Spent Pile, where they are ineligible to be put back into the bag until the end of the turn. This is a change from the earlier FAQ, and makes it much less likely that in the given situation, the Portals would end up producing Quiddity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T04:17:57.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-11T10:15:55.887" Score="2" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have been playing Puerto Rico for on a regular basis. It's an excellent game, and one of the few well balanced games in buildup genre as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is almost no luck factor involved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the Information about game and players buildup is revealed entirely. It makes the game highly strategic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not much of dirty tactics used by players. Say when player(s) tries to favor or screw certain other player, or delay other players winning. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been playing other resource management games like Le Havre, Agricola. Settlers of Catan has lots of player-to-player interaction, which makes the game more competitive. I was wondering if we could discuss and share some custom rules to modify the gameplay to have such player interactions; and would it be possible to introduce same new rules to create extra strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say by allowing other players to use production and service buildings for a fee. Player when in need of money or resources can mark only a building 'open for use' when selecting the role. Once open it can't be closed until her next turn. This fee could be really high 20%-30% of the service building cost, or one-third of production. Production building: Tobacco, Sugar, etc. Service: Harbor, Market, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many a times I find players getting blocked or waited to gather sufficient gold. Even when they have some of the good buildings.&#xA;Please share your thoughts. &#xA;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3622" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-02-06T04:36:28.207" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T04:36:28.207" Title="Puerto Rico - Custom gameplay tweaks to introduce player interactions" Tags="|house-rules|puerto-rico|puerto-rico-expansion-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9503" CreationDate="2012-12-11T20:56:20.260" Score="11" ViewCount="13819" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the third hole at the start of the cribbage for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's shown behind the 2 pegs in the image below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LHXgO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cribbage board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3624" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T22:23:21.223" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T21:37:28.370" Title="Third Hole in Cribbage Board" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9502" CreationDate="2012-12-11T21:21:31.180" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is for the Game Peg (also known as a spilikin). At the bottom of the board, you see the three straight stripes - those are for keeping track of the number of games you have won. Until you have actually won a game, your spilikin for tracking wins is stored in that third hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following picture: it appears blue has just won the game, and is awarded two game wins for skunking the red player. The red player has yet to win a game, so his spilikin is still in the starting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cBDbX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-12-11T22:58:09.617" LastActivityDate="2012-12-11T22:58:09.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-11T21:35:44.980" Score="7" ViewCount="702" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monopoly Deal, there is a Go! Card which uses one of your three plays for the turn in order to draw two additional cards. It seems the key to winning in this game revolve around emptying your hand to draw 5. Let's start from that scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;turn x  : draw 5, play 3, leaves 2 in hand&#xA;turn x+1: draw 2, play 3, leaves 1 in hand&#xA;turn x+2: draw 2, play 3, leaves 0 in hand&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with this we have 3 turns, 9 cards, or an average of 3 cards per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's say we play a go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;turn x  : draw 5, play 2 and a go, leaves 5 in hand&#xA;turn x+1: draw 2, play 3, leaves 4 in hand&#xA;turn x+2: draw 2, play 3, leaves 3 in hand&#xA;turn x+3: draw 2, play 3, leaves 2 in hand&#xA;turn x+4: draw 2, play 3, leaves 1 in hand&#xA;turn x+5: draw 2, play 3, leaves 0 in hand&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now, in six turns, we've instead managed to draw 17 cards over 6 turns, or 2.8 cards per turn. So we see FEWER cards per turn if we play a go, plus one less action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be using my goes for money instead to maximize the number of cards I see? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T15:42:35.517" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T00:34:07.550" Title="Is the Go! action card ever worth playing?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9495" CreationDate="2012-12-11T22:26:40.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Deluxe Monopoly state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are a limited number of houses and hotels available and two or more players wish to buy more than the Bank has, the houses or hotels must be sold at auction to the highest bidder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I understand the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice wants 6 houses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob wants 18 houses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bank has 12 houses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically, here's what should happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob sells all his hotels, collects $375 (or auction occurs before the hotels are broken down, if Bob has sufficient funds to bid and wants to save money by just selling one house on each property…)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice wants 6 houses, Bob wants them all 12 (presumably) so 6 houses are put up for bid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bank has 6 houses left. If she lost the first auction, Alice still wants 6 houses. So does Bob. So those 6 houses should also be put up for bid. If Alice won the first auction Bob can buy the remaining 6 houses at standard prices and put 2 each on his light blue properties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps Alice has bid Bob up enough that she can buy the six in the second auction, or perhaps Bob has a warchest big enough to buy all 12. Most likely Alice will bid enough to make Bob's sale of his hotels a net-loss if he bids. (It would likely be a bargain for her, considering Bob's properties are light blue!) But I think that's the way it should go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T17:07:03.270" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T17:07:03.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7958" CreationDate="2012-12-12T04:14:28.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the rule of play is &lt;strong&gt;no, you cannot turn your chariot away from the forward path of the track&lt;/strong&gt;. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; plot to ram in the figure 8 and are encouraged to damage the other chariots to the point of destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the ruling class watching would scream for a laser show to cut you and your beasts down if you tried a turnabout, well before your collision could occur...  Give the boys in the corner seats their cheers by smashing into the wall, leaping into the other player's chariot and kicking them into the oncoming frenzy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3627" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-12T09:59:11.417" LastActivityDate="2012-12-12T09:59:11.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9479" CreationDate="2012-12-12T15:59:07.323" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to trying your best not to allow your opponent to control edges and corners, trying to place in such a way that your opponent cannot play is a good tactic. This is effective during the mid- and late-game. This tactic is as much about luck in your opponent's placement as it is about your vision in being able to accomplish this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frequently, when you force them to miss a placement, there is another opportunity on your part to make them miss another, which can sometimes domino to 5 or 6 consecutive placements for you. This also gives you a large advantage since players continue to take turns if they can, so you will have placed more than your opponent over the course of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T10:03:45.020" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T10:03:45.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T11:34:05.770" Score="8" ViewCount="4325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding activated abilities.&#xA;My opponent has an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Isochron%20Scepter&quot;&gt;Isochron Scepter&lt;/a&gt; (untapped). He wants to play the ability and taps it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to destroy the Isochron Scepter with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; beforehand? So if I play Naturalize, is he able to cast the spell imprinted in the Scepter? Or is the Scepter destroyed before the ability triggers?&#xA;And if it would be destroyed before the ability triggers, is it then possible to &amp;quot;replay&amp;quot; the Isochron Scepter ability in response again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3632" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T22:43:30.190" LastActivityDate="2017-07-03T23:04:20.480" Title="Can I use Naturalize to &quot;counter&quot; an activated ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9508" CreationDate="2012-12-13T12:47:51.437" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the ability is put on the stack, destroying the Isochron Scepter in response will not take that ability back off the stack.  First the Naturalize will resolve, destroying the Scepter; then, next the Scepter's ability will resolve and you can copy the imprinted instant card (using the last-known-information rule).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure what you mean about &quot;replaying the Scepter's ability in response&quot; - the Scepter has been tapped in order to play its ability.  Of course, you can use a spell or effect to untap the Scepter in response to the Naturalize, and pay 2 to pay its ability again.  In which case the Scepter's ability would resolve twice, once before Naturalize resolves and destroys the artifact, and once afterwards.  If this is what you're asking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This para from the Comprehensive Rules may help to understand the finer points of destroying a permanent while its ability is on the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source&#xA;  after that time won't affect the ability. Note that some abilities&#xA;  cause a source to do something (for example, &quot;Prodigal Pyromancer&#xA;  deals 1 damage to target creature or player&quot;) rather than the ability&#xA;  doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered&#xA;  ability that references information about the source because the&#xA;  effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is&#xA;  put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it&#xA;  resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone&#xA;  it's expected to be in at that time, its last known information is&#xA;  used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer&#xA;  exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T12:47:51.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9495" CreationDate="2012-12-13T20:50:02.417" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something about this scenario that seems unusual.  Instinctively, I would say that Alice should have priority because Bob has to first sell his hotels &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; buying the houses. She should get her 6 houses and then Bob can downgrade his hotels to acquire the remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A poster on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/264898/monopoly-house-juggling-is-this-legal&quot;&gt;Board Game Geeks thread&lt;/a&gt; refers to &lt;em&gt;The Monopoly Companion&lt;/em&gt;'s description of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://funskool.indiatimes.com/rules.html&quot;&gt;tournament rule&lt;/a&gt; (created after the 1983 U.S. Championships) that enforces this restriction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a Building Shortage exists, players desiring to buy the houses&#xA;  remaining in the bank have priority over those wishing to break down&#xA;  hotels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend that thread because they go into other examples that are pretty interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that Bob triggers the building shortage rules once he states his intention and Alice responds.  However, if Bob were to simply state that he is selling his hotels, then it may delay the building shortage and allow for a procedure more similar to the one mentioned by @ghoppe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3551" LastEditorUserId="3551" LastEditDate="2012-12-13T21:15:51.813" LastActivityDate="2012-12-13T21:15:51.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-13T21:14:17.997" Score="10" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have acquired a 1953 version of Scrabble.  Included with the usual 100 wooden tiles are 4 wooden dice.  Each face of the dice  has the dots imprinted using one of these 3 colors; red, green or black.  I am not familiar with Scrabble using dice.  How do the dice get incorporated into the game both in use &amp;amp; scoring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3633" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T17:26:51.980" Title="1953 version of Scrabble includes 4 wooden dice - why?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9511" CreationDate="2012-12-14T00:09:48.247" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like 4 stowaways from a game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2581/kismet&quot;&gt;Kismet&lt;/a&gt;, which was Yahtzee with green, red and black spots on dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2340" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T17:26:51.980" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T17:26:51.980" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9504" CreationDate="2012-12-14T03:01:15.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bad idea to play an action card for money (except if you run out of money of course). It may serve at one moment of the game. So do not play your goes card for money. It may gives you a second wind to your hand with two brand new cards which enables you to build a new strategy. Imagine that in the two new cards there are cards like &quot;Deal Breaker&quot; or other cards which could be combined with another of your hands to get lots of money or properties. Is it better to get only 1M in your bank ? Not so sure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T03:01:15.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9514" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-14T03:46:06.663" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T03:46:06.663" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T03:46:06.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9515" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-14T03:46:06.663" Score="0" Body="Belote is a card game. It is very popular in France where it appeared at the end of the first World War. It is played by 4 people (2 teams of two players), but some varieties requires from 2 to 6 players. It needs a classic 32 cards game to play. The goal is to get more points than the opposite team." OwnerUserId="3635" LastEditorUserId="3635" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T04:45:27.430" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T04:45:27.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9321" CreationDate="2012-12-14T03:55:29.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is the &quot;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://antimonopoly.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anti-Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&quot; which gets the game origins of the Monopoly, i.e. the Landlord's game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T03:55:29.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4297" CreationDate="2012-12-14T12:54:00.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several elements to a game... and most but not all are protectable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly which varies widely from country to country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games that are explicitly legal reworks in the US are proven infringements in France, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to look at where you're writing at, and intending to sell to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even where it's legal, plagiarism is still generally considered unethical; make it different enough to be worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US, the literal text is protected by copyright, as is the board art (and by derivation, the layout of spaces). The Title is a trademark, as are certain artistic elements. The Chance and Community Chest cards are trademark and copyright. The specific property names and the rent and prices are pretty much copyright. The process of play was Patent, but the patent is long expired. And, given later reforms, the flow of play is no longer protectable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, remember: I'm not a lawyer, and I'm surely not YOUR lawyer - engage a good Intellectual Properties lawyer before publishing a derivative. Find out what your local rights are, and how far your can go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2012-12-14T12:59:28.497" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T12:59:28.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9501" CreationDate="2012-12-14T12:55:07.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico is mostly an open information game. The plantation tiles are randomized and hidden information, and VP points are hidden, although a player with good memory could count when each player earns victory points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is player interaction in Puerto Rico, but it isn't like Settlers of Catan wheeling and dealing, which allows multiple players who are losing to trade resources among themselves to help each other catch up to the leader. The other two games are very similar to Puerto Rico in their player interaction, in Agricola you can deny your opponents a particular role when you choose it, and in Le Harve you can get your goods to the ship first blocking the boat. (It is confusing that you mentioned them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I almost never see a player waiting to use newly acquired buildings, any longer than the one round that would be necessary to choose the Mayor action to fill the building/plantation. Puerto Rico is designed as a resource management game. Nearly every turn, it feels like their are two things you need to do, but you can only choose one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you modify the rules to allow trading coins for building use, sure but there will be added complications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do buildings &quot;open for business&quot; still require a colonist from your opponents to use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do your or other colonists &quot;block&quot; a open building for use by other players? (i.e. are the number of circles relevant on buildings)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How will players indicate they are using your building if colonists are required, how do you keep track of which colonist is which players?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If using a building doesn't require a colonist, when can a player decide when to use it? (i.e. Can I use a Factory right before/after crafting, a Storehouse/Harbor during shipping, etc?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think about adding this feature, realize what you are doing. You are allowing other players to trade coins to another player for Victory Points. How many players are going to leave their Guild House, City Hall, or other large building &quot;open for business?&quot; Why would I make my Harbor available to anyone else, when the point of getting it was so that when we ship, I get +1-2 extra VP? I am pretty sure you will find this rule rather pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T12:55:07.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9504" CreationDate="2012-12-14T22:15:34.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to cards, it is very important to consider tempo when deciding what moves to make in a variable-hand-size card game... if your hand is strong enough on its own merit without having to draw additional cards, that's great, but you're going to run into situations where playing the 'Go' as a money card and playing another card already in hand is not going to be as good as playing the 'Go' card as an action card and then playing one of the cards that were drawn by the 'Go' action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that the only time that you should play the 'Go' card as money EVERY TIME is when it is the last card in your hand, and the last action you can take (but even then you're only betting that the 5 cards you'll draw at the beginning of your next turn are better than the four cards that you'd draw if you played the go card and drew two your next turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastActivityDate="2012-12-14T22:15:34.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-15T06:28:34.933" Score="5" ViewCount="2060" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the best role choice order for the first round in a 3-player game of Puerto Rico (without extension)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settler (→ Quarry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Builder (→ Small Indigo or Small Sugar)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Major (staffing corn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sometimes see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settler (→ Quarry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Craftsman (no bonus)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Major (staffing corn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settler (→ Quarry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Craftsman (no bonus)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Builder (→ Small Market)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should player 1 (Indigo), player 2 (Indigo) and player 3 (Corn) choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Settler (selecting a Quarry) the only advisable role choice for player 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also interested in choices for player 2/3 if player 1/2 chose something unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5-player game, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/617/3532&quot;&gt;Viable, alternative, first round role orders in 5-player Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T05:22:06.147" Title="Puerto Rico, 3-player: Which role order in the first round?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9520" CreationDate="2012-12-15T19:02:49.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do think that Settle for a Quarry is far and away the best first move of the game. The return on the investment is just so good. It helps you get the important early- and midgame buildings earlier, and get more buildings total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think Building for a Small Market or small Indigo/Sugar plant, depending on what you grabbed with Settler, is a strong choice for the second player. Hacienda is a wildcard building choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think Mayor is the best remaining choice for the last player. Colonists are sometimes short in the early game and having an extra is nice. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Craftsman makes no sense at all. It doesn't provide you any benefit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2012-12-15T19:46:43.647" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T19:46:43.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9520" CreationDate="2012-12-15T19:15:29.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first round is almost always:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Settler (&lt;strong&gt;P1&lt;/strong&gt;:Quarry, &lt;strong&gt;P2&lt;/strong&gt;:Corn(or Sugar if Corn unavailable), &lt;strong&gt;P3&lt;/strong&gt;:Indigo (other choices are also good)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Builder (&lt;strong&gt;P2&lt;/strong&gt;:Small Market or related production building, &lt;strong&gt;P3&lt;/strong&gt;:Small Market, &lt;strong&gt;P1&lt;/strong&gt;:Pass or (Small Market if available, sometimes Small Indigo)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mayor (&lt;strong&gt;P3&lt;/strong&gt;:Corn and Small Market, &lt;strong&gt;P1&lt;/strong&gt;:Quarry, &lt;strong&gt;P2&lt;/strong&gt;:doesn't matter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An in depth analysis would take &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/14480/puerto-rico-opening-theory-part-2-openings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pages&lt;/a&gt;, but your two latter cases make no sense, because Craftsman gains Player 2 no advantage. Clearly, they could have chosen Builder, built the Small Market for free (1 VP), and prevent Player 1 from getting the opportunity to build it for free with a covered Quarry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Player 1 chooses Mayor, Captain, Craftsman, or Trader then no choices can be made so I won't cover those. If Player 1 chooses Builder, Player 2 should build either Small Market or Small Indigo, Player 3 should probably build Small Market. This gives Player 2 the opportunity to get the first Quarry by selecting Settler (cash is king in the early game), or Mayor to cover both Indigo slots. If they choose wisely though, that would leave Player 3 with Mayor, covering their Corn+Small Market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-15T22:51:57.920" LastActivityDate="2012-12-15T22:51:57.920" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2012-12-15T19:15:29.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9524" CreationDate="2012-12-16T10:59:09.357" Score="9" ViewCount="899" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror, tomes require movement points to use, e.g. Old Journal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tome&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Movement:&lt;/strong&gt; Exhaust and spend 1 movement point to make a &lt;strong&gt;Lore (-1) check&lt;/strong&gt;. If you pass, gain 3 Clue tokens and discard Old Journal. If you fail, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I never receive movement points in Other Worlds, &lt;strong&gt;is it possible to use a tome&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T13:49:18.080" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T13:49:18.080" Title="Can I read a tome in Other Worlds?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9523" CreationDate="2012-12-16T12:41:57.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=3&amp;amp;ved=0CD8QFjAC&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fantasyflightgames.com%2Fffg_content%2FArkham_Horror%2FAHfaq.pdf&amp;amp;ei=8L3NUImyNKz8iQKIooCIBg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHSH_R-xjFhGE0CTmevXLzldgrgkw&amp;amp;sig2=63-gee7gmvQ_W8znY4SJ-g&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ on Fantasy Flights website&lt;/a&gt; covers this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Characters in Other Worlds receive no movement points. But if a character in an Other World has an item that gives them movement points, such as the Motorcycle or Ruby of R' lyeh, can the character use an item that requires the character to spend movement points, such as the Necronomicon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: No. You can not receive movement points or use any item requiring movement points while in an Other World.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T12:41:57.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-16T18:22:51.270" Score="3" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you pull a black card that goes against a quest that you haven't started, do you still place the black card on that quest, or do you discard it? So, if you get an Excalibur card before starting the quest, what do you do with it? For the Grail, can you fill the board with despair cards before even starting the quest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is that the black cards are only used once a quest is started, on a solo quest is it only used if drawn by the knight in the quest, or by any knight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, is the answer different for perpetual quests?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3641" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T22:00:05.287" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T22:23:16.400" Title="How do you resolve black cards in quests you haven't started in Shadows Over Camelot?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1374" CreationDate="2012-12-16T20:25:14.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; - it has a slightly different take on builder placement, while relying primarily on tile placement. The game board itself will be different every time, as you're drawing and placing random tiles every turn. Play itself goes quickly after your first playthrough, and there are several different strategies toward victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With your personal preference for builder placement games, this seems like a nice way to learn a tile placement game while still retaining a little bit of that mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you decided to do, have fun! And good luck :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3643" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T20:25:14.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9546" CreationDate="2012-12-16T20:36:33.417" Score="10" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing a game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34635/stone-age&quot;&gt;Stone Age&lt;/a&gt; with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/107576/stone-age-style-is-the-goal&quot;&gt;Style is the Goal&lt;/a&gt; expansion, we had a player achieve ten traders on the trader track. Later in the game, she purchased a card which gave a +1 on the trader track. It wasn't clear to us whether she should receive the usual two decoration even though she couldn't move her counter on the track itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We settled on a house rule that yes, you could indeed take two decorations even if you can't advance any further on the trader track. This seemed to me like a reasonable decision as you are purchasing more traders, which would bring in decorations, even though the track itself maxes out at ten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else run up against this question and come to a resolution? I'd love to hear it if so, as I really enjoy playing Stone Age! Thanks everybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3643" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T15:37:43.723" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:22:29.253" Title="Maxxing out the trader track in Stone Age: Style is the Goal" Tags="|stone-age|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9525" CreationDate="2012-12-16T22:12:13.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CDAQFjAA&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn0.daysofwonder.com%2Fshadowsovercamelot%2Fen%2Fimg%2Fsc_rules_en.pdf&amp;amp;ei=iD3OUM6pG-WUjALNvICQDQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHetluwRSx3qLQNFfTzyc9UoRq-nA&amp;amp;sig2=7LkKhAiSMu6hnjlz7u-JYg&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Progression of Evil&lt;/strong&gt; a.) Drawing a Black card (page 10-11)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you follow the instructions on the card Special Black cards or Standard black card or place the card in its respective quest, regardless of whether any Knight has begun a quest. The instructions are on the card, or detailed on the pages listed here. Excalibur cards move the sword towards the evil side of the river. Grail cards like Despair can fill up the quest before you even start, and if it does you lose the Grail Quest and turn it over, further Black Grail cards place siege engines outside Camelot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The very end of section a). explains that a quest immediately ends when you place the final black card (or Saxson/Pict) to fill a particular Quest, and tells you to consult the particular quest for win/loss conditions. In general, you will add a number or White(win)/Black(lose) Swords to the round table, add a number of Siege Engines/Draw White Cards, and whether the particular quest is flipped over or not. This information is usually printer on the Quest cardboard itself, but is explained in detail within the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-16T22:23:16.400" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T22:23:16.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2012-12-16T22:20:42.303" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;For simplicity, I will focus on the base game (Sid Meier's Civilization the Board Game, as published in 2010) without any expansions because this is what I assume you are currently playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tech victories are common while learning the game rules.  This is because the Research phase acts as a sort of timer; if everyone acquires approximately 1 technology per turn, then someone's tech victory is likely to happen close to the 15th turn regardless of other game events.  Tech victory is what eventually happens if the empires are grown without focussed strategies, or if opportunities to advance are often missed (fewer strategically useful actions per player per turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after the learning phase is over, you will see that tech victories are &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/626430/tracking-victory-types/page/1&quot;&gt;not at all that common&lt;/a&gt;.  In fact a tech victory is quite a feat for anyone except Russians, whose espionage is the easiest way to speed up research.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some speed up is very much necessary.  Games played between seasoned players are won around the 11th turn in one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3555" LastActivityDate="2012-12-16T22:20:42.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9532" CreationDate="2012-12-17T11:40:53.667" Score="8" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Lookout&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy wiki&lt;/a&gt;, Lookout doesn't go well with a Big Money strategy. Do you agree?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify: I mean Big Money in a broad sense. So picking up at most a couple of cards, then focusing on money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:37:47.447" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T17:37:47.447" Title="Is Lookout usually a good pick with a Big Money strategy?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9530" CreationDate="2012-12-17T11:47:30.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lookout + Smithy would work better. There is little point using Lookout with no other action cards, as the +1 action is what makes lookout a good card. Generally &quot;Big Money&quot; means not buying any action cards, and Big Money + X means buying 1 of the X card, e.g. Big Money + Smithy. Big Money + Lookout and no other action cards therefore isn't a very good strategy, as the +action should be used with another action card! But if you are playing Lookout/Smithy you aren't really playing Big Money any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T11:47:30.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9530" CreationDate="2012-12-17T13:45:49.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I certainly agree.&lt;/strong&gt; For the hand playing it, Lookout is a dead card. Since you're considering a Big Money (BM) strategy, the natural comparison is against Silver. The first time you play it, if you're lucky, you remove a single dead card from your deck (an Estate), you're back to where you started, and you had to play with a 4-card hand that, had you had a Silver instead, could likely have bought you a good $5 or Gold! By the time you've played the Lookout twice, it's probably turn 6-8; the game is close to half over. The Silver could have catapulted you to Gold or a good $5 twice now, and you'd have a Silver in your deck too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lookout is fine if the BM is flavored by Cursing, and Sea Hag in particular. In this case it removes negative points, hits more dead cards, and has a longer time to work in the more drawn-out cursing environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be very surprised if Lookout/Smithy/BM beats Smithy/BM, for the same reasons as above (and because the Smithy can draw the Lookout dead!) For Lookout to be good in the absence of Curses, you need to have an engine in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T13:45:49.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2012-12-17T14:00:08.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are measuring &lt;strong&gt;dollars per player-hour&lt;/strong&gt;, board games are an excellent value--provided you find a game that your group actually will play time and again. For example, my group has played my copy of Chaos in the Old World probably 50 times. At $40, and each of those games being a 4-player 90-minute game, that works out to $0.13 per player-hour. That's better than anything I can think of except for exercising outside or a library card. The expense of driving too meet at game nights certainly eclipses the cost of this game. (Traditional card games are probably the very best bet; you can get hundreds of player-hours of Bridge, Poker, Spades, Hearts, etc. out of a $2 deck of cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a game you don't enjoy and never play again is much worse, quite possibly $10 per player-hour. (And you're not even enjoying that!) So if you're buying games without having played them before, you'll have to accept more risk with the purchase. Reading reviews or being prepared to sell/trade the game can mitigate this risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T14:00:08.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9538" CreationDate="2012-12-17T16:59:30.880" Score="7" ViewCount="5814" Body="&lt;p&gt;In rummikub, how exactly does the 30-point rule work? Is it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The very first move of each player must be independent of existing stones and with a value of at least 30. There is no 30-point rule in the remainder of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or is it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a player plays without using any other stones, e.g. puts a run or a group composed completely of his own stones, this must be at least 30 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We weren't sure when playing. Which one is it? We played with the latter, but now it seems it's actually the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3645" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T02:35:46.253" Title="Does the 30-point rule apply to every non-manipulating move, or only to the initial move?" Tags="|rummikub|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9535" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-17T17:05:17.203" Score="11" ViewCount="5667" Body="&lt;p&gt;My newly bought, first-hand game of Rummikub (from &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20111130080110/http://www.kontor68.eu/p/77018/philos-rummy-in-kunstlederkoffer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Philos&lt;/a&gt;) came with a die. However, the game doesn't seem to use a die. Is there any variant that uses a die, if so, what for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3645" LastEditorUserId="3645" LastEditDate="2022-01-04T08:49:36.857" LastActivityDate="2022-01-04T08:49:36.857" Title="My game of Rummikub came with a die. Why could that be?" Tags="|rummikub|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9535" CreationDate="2012-12-17T17:26:22.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9017/rummikub-rummy-dice-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dice Rummikub&lt;/a&gt;, which uses dice instead of tiles; while related, it is its own game and requires more than a single die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short of being mixed into the box accidentally, or tossed in as a convenient first-player randomizer (because &quot;high tile goes first&quot; is just &lt;em&gt;so&lt;/em&gt; complicated :p), I can't think of any reason for its inclusion in the regular tile-based Rummikub set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-12-17T17:26:22.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9534" CreationDate="2012-12-18T02:35:46.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to guess that you were most likely playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/rummikub.html&quot;&gt;Sabra Rummikub&lt;/a&gt;. You almost got it right with the former. The pagat page indicates that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first meld made by each player must consist of one or more combinations formed entirely from that player's hand, where the total numbers of the tiles used add up to 30 or more. If a joker is used, it counts as the number of the tile it represents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the first meld of each hand, you must meld 30 points, since the game is made up of multiple hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T02:35:46.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9535" CreationDate="2012-12-18T03:17:53.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could be misremembering (I couldn't find a source), but I think my old set of Rummikub might  have included a die purely to decide who goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I definitely remember buying a game that included a die that was only used to see who goes first. I remember only because it seemed so absurd as there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/2043/1749&quot;&gt;many other ways&lt;/a&gt; to decide who goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T18:25:38.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9541" CreationDate="2012-12-18T04:27:36.527" Score="18" ViewCount="11966" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am really new to Munchkin and I had a question about a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The King Tut card says &quot;Will not pursue anyone of Level 3 or below. Higher-Leveled characters lose 2 levels, even if they escape.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that as soon as combat starts with King Tut the player loses 2 levels?  What if someone joins in the fight, do they lose 2 levels as well?  And what if someone plays a card that cancels the combat (for example switches the monster)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3629" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T15:07:42.797" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T01:55:04.920" Title="Do I lose two levels just for choosing to fight King Tut?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9540" CreationDate="2012-12-18T04:50:14.593" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the loss of 2 levels is part of the bad stuff that happens when you normally fail to escape, or since the card specifically states it, &amp;quot;even if they escape.&amp;quot; From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;World if Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. King Tut and the Wight Brothers say &amp;quot;Characters of higher Levels [than 3] lose 2 levels, even if they escape.&amp;quot; Does that mean you lose two levels even if you defeat those monsters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. No. But if you cannot defeat them, then you must try to run away, and you'll lose the 2 levels even if you do escape. If they catch you, of course, you do suffer the Bad Stuff from those Monsters. (But you don't lose the two levels twice!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T04:50:14.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9527" CreationDate="2012-12-18T05:34:22.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official clarification to my knowledge, so at least &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/814313/trader-movement-when-already-at-the-10-space&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;you are not alone&lt;/a&gt; in this matter. A strict reading of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_398_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, would lead me to the same conclusion you came to (emphasis mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player moves his marker on the trader track 2 spaces forward (and takes back his two figures). He also immediately takes two decorations. (Each time the player moves his marker forward on the trader track, &lt;strong&gt;regardless of how far&lt;/strong&gt;, he takes two decorations.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all hinges on whether moving zero spaces is advancing your marker. I would contend that the rule would be to do as much as possible. The second statement of taking 2 decorations is independent of advancing your marker, so if you are at the top of the track you don't move the marker (still trading at 1:2), because you cannot, but you still collect decorations which you are able to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/games.html?id=398&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No FAQ exists&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/928/bernd-brunnhofer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;designer&lt;/a&gt;'s web&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/stone-age-mit-stil-zum-ziel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; didn't appear to address the question. It did have a German copy of the rules, so anyone fluent in German who wishes to post a question to the designer or who can determine if the German rules are clearer on this matter are welcome to try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T06:50:49.470" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T06:50:49.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9549" CreationDate="2012-12-18T09:55:25.297" Score="5" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know in some A&amp;amp;A rulebooks it is printed what the plastic miniatures represents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own A&amp;amp;A 1942 and Pacific. When I see the German tank it looks like a Panther.. is it?  Is it the same tank issued for 1940? Which is .. a panther?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-12-18T16:40:01.293" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T02:40:09.787" Title="Are the German tanks in Axis &amp; Allies Panthers?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6435" CreationDate="2012-12-18T11:15:49.613" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What all these $/hour calculations fail to include is the cost of playing.  Depending on your setting, you could include driving costs, room hire, expensive beer prices, etc. when comparing to a video game or a dvd at home.  I'm not saying that makes it an expensive hobby, but when you compare it to old PC games on gog.com, for example, it comes out quite dear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T11:15:49.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9543" CreationDate="2012-12-18T16:00:38.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/552678/axis-allies-1942-second-edition?size=large&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;If this is your component set,&lt;/a&gt; Then yes it is a Panther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4oVWS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;German Panther in a museum&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T02:40:09.787" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T02:40:09.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9527" CreationDate="2012-12-18T23:12:34.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is actually a difference between the wording of the English and German rules, that I think is significant.  The English rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Each time the player moves his marker forward  on the trader track,&#xA;  regardless of how far, he takes 2 decorations.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the German, by contrast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Jedes Mal, wenn der Spieler auf der Händlerleiste vorrückt, unabhängig&#xA;  ob 1 oder 2 Felder, erhält er 2 Schmuck.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To roughly translate that, and highlight the difference: &quot;Each time that the player on the trader track advances, &lt;strong&gt;regardless of whether it is 1 or 2 spaces&lt;/strong&gt;, he takes 2 decorations.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a lot clearer from that wording that getting the decorations is specifically linked to advancing along the track, and that &quot;advancing 0 spaces&quot; was not meant to count as advancing.  As such, I'd come to the opposite conclusion to user1873's answer, and assume that the designer only meant you to be able to get decorations while making real progress along the trader track, and not to be able to milk it for more decorations after having maxed it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-18T23:12:34.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9552" CreationDate="2012-12-18T23:27:48.013" Score="6" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ninja Burger &lt;em&gt;(&quot;No matter how alert your guards, how deep your bunker, or how secure your office, we deliver in 30 minutes or less&quot;)&lt;/em&gt;, one possible game end is if the average Honor of all players at the end of a round is less than 4. The winner is the player with the highest Honor at the time.  Also, if a player has zero Honor at the end of a round, they &quot;apologize to their ancestors,&quot; draw a new ninja and a new hand, and restart with 6 honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these effects happens first, since both just say &quot;at end of round&quot;? If a player's zero Honor brings the average low enough to trigger the game's end, but their new character with 6 Honor doesn't bring the average that low, does the game end or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bonus complication if you say &quot;the game ends&quot;: if 6 Honor is enough to win the game at this point, does that mean the player who had zero Honor - but restarted with a new ninja that has 6 honor - wins? Or does the game end before that player can restart with a new ninja?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T03:17:16.603" Title="Which &quot;end of round&quot; effect resolves first: dealing in a dead player, or game end due to low honor?" Tags="|ninja-burger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9543" CreationDate="2012-12-19T00:29:27.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 1942 2nd edition does indeed list the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/p/axis-allies-1942-second-edition-preview-units/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German tank miniature&lt;/a&gt; as a Panther. This is the most recent printing. You can make out the text in the top picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the rule books from the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/downloads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wizards site&lt;/a&gt;, unless you are talking about the older Avalon Hill versions, to discover if the units were changed from any of the different versions. If they are attempting to be historically accurate, you can compare the miniature to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/German_tanks_in_world_war_ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panzer I-IV, Panther, and Tiger I/II&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_Axis_%26_Allies_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game page&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia agrees with the other sites, but notes under &lt;strong&gt;Units&lt;/strong&gt; that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Changes in the figurines used may be due to evolving game mechanics (such as the introduction of player-specific antiaircraft gun pieces in 1942 Second Edition necessitating the replacement of artillery units that were previously represented by antiaircraft guns), increased realism (For example, prior to Anniversary, many British and Soviet units were recolored versions of American pieces; in later games they were replaced with pieces representing units from their own armies. Similarly, most ANZAC and Italian pieces, including infantry, were replaced in Pacific 1940 Second Edition and Europe 1940 Second Edition, respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T02:38:19.033" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T02:38:19.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9550" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-19T01:53:45.720" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T01:53:45.720" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T01:53:45.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9551" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-19T01:53:45.720" Score="0" Body="For questions specific to Magic: The Gathering when played with more than two players. Do not use this tag if you have a question about a situation which could also happen in a 1 vs. 1 game. Please also tag [magic-the-gathering].&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2019-01-17T15:11:24.207" LastActivityDate="2019-01-17T15:11:24.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9548" CreationDate="2012-12-19T03:17:16.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game ends, the player with zero honor doesn't get a new ninja until just before a new round starts, and only if the round hasn't ended. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/ninjaburger/rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Phase 8: Check Honor&lt;/strong&gt;, besides the checks to see if the game has ended because a single player has 5 more honor than every other player, or the franchise honor is so high or low that the manager's position becomes open, it says this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If no one has won, a new round can start. &lt;strong&gt;Before the round starts&lt;/strong&gt;, though, any ninjas whose Honor has gone to zero or less must make amends ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T03:17:16.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9557" CreationDate="2012-12-19T11:10:54.570" Score="10" ViewCount="3481" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Slifer_the_Sky_Dragon_%28original%29&quot;&gt;first gen print of Slifer&lt;/a&gt;. Before I get asked about it, no I don't do tourneys or follow the modern card rulings. I stopped playing yu-gi-oh back in 2007 so I use the same limited rules that we had back then. I don't think we had any banned cards back in 2007. I could be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, that being said, I usually only play against a friend of mine. We both decided to start playing again about a month ago. I'm running a dragon deck (yes, using all of the cards specially including the newer ones as you can tell by my use of Red-Eyes Darkness) and I came across this dilemma. Am I allowed to summon Slifer using Red-Eyes' effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, upon re-reading Slifer's effect it states that it is also treated as a dragon. My question is, does this only become true when it's on the field? Would the graveyard count as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T18:33:57.857" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T19:31:58.160" Title="Can Slifer be summoned using Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon's effect?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9556" CreationDate="2012-12-19T15:59:59.587" Score="7" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Killer Bunnies when a Bunny has a &quot;feed your bunny&quot; card on it you have until the end of your turn to feed it. If you draw a Terrible Misfortune card (plays immediately) can you play it on the bunny that needs to be fed (assuming you can't feed it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1593" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T16:21:17.687" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T17:22:58.443" Title="In Killer Bunnies can you play a Terrible Misfortune on a bunny that needs to be fed?" Tags="|killer-bunnies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9555" CreationDate="2012-12-19T17:22:58.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you may since your turn isn't over until you replace your &lt;strong&gt;Bottom Run&lt;/strong&gt; card in Step (4), which occurs after you draw back up to five cards. Under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://killerbunnies.com/?p=230&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;Feed Your Bunny&lt;/strong&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using a Feed The Bunny card, a player places it on any opponent’s bunny in The Bunny Circle. The opponent will need the Cabbage Units and Water Units to Feed The Bunny by the end of his next turn. [...] If the bunny is not fed by the end of the opponent’s turn, then it dies and is removed from The Bunny Circle (discarded).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and for &lt;strong&gt;Play Immediately&lt;/strong&gt; cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player draws a PLAY IMMEDIATELY (Terrible Misfortune) card during play, then he must stop the game, announce that he has the card, and kill one of his own bunnies in The Bunny Circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you play a Feed Your Bunny card on an opponents bunny, they only have until the end of their turn to feed and save it. So, when is the end of your turn? The &lt;a href=&quot;http://killerbunnies.com/?p=235&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blue Starter Deck rules&lt;/a&gt; breaks down the steps of your turn as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Flip over the TOP RUN card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Slide the BOTTOM RUN card up to the TOP RUN card position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) Draw a replacement card from the Draw Pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4) Replace the BOTTOM RUN card with a card from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: the yellow/blue bunny bits rules were very confusing since they didn't breakdown the turn into steps, &amp;quot;A player’s turn is over when he has flipped his TOP RUN card (or played a SPECIAL card directly from his five-card hand), and has replaced the card so that he once again has five cards in his hand and two cards down on the table.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T17:22:58.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9554" CreationDate="2012-12-19T18:21:43.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I think I've worked out what's going on here.  The link to Original Slifer that you kindly provided for me shows the &lt;em&gt;original, illegal version&lt;/em&gt; of the card.  There is a second link, from that page, to &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Slifer_the_Sky_Dragon&quot;&gt;the legal Slifer version&lt;/a&gt;.  You will see that the second Slifer does not have any ruling declaring the card to be of Dragon Type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does the illegal Slifer have a ruling indicating that it is a dragon?  Well, it took a little bit of detective work but I quote from that page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This card's written lore in the anime and manga was never shown fully&#xA;  or directly; the lore listed here is a reconstruction based on how it&#xA;  was used and may not be accurate or complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this talking about?  Well, at some point in the anime an interaction between Slifer and other &quot;cards&quot; occurred that would not have been able to happen if Slifer had not been of Dragon type (I believe I actually found what this was earlier today, but have lost it again: I'll edit it in if I track it down).  Seemingly, then, in the anime at least Slifer is of &quot;Divine-Dragon&quot; type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournaments I would guess that Slifer is categorically only a Divine-Beast, and not a dragon, and does not combo with Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon.  You say you're not especially interested in tournament restrictions and the latest rulings though - so if you wanted to make a house rule that yes, &lt;strong&gt;of course&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Slifer the Sky Dragon&quot; is a dragon, then there's nothing stopping you.  That interpretation was good enough for the anime so there's no reason it shouldn't be good enough for you.  If you go down that route I would treat Slifer as having &quot;Divine-Dragon&quot; on its type line for all purposes, so it would still be a Dragon in the graveyard too.  Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T18:21:43.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9560" CreationDate="2012-12-19T19:20:58.480" Score="4" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ninja Burger, you attempt to deliver tasty food to people. Along the way, you need to pass skill checks (such as Climbing at -2 to get to the International Space Station, because &lt;em&gt;nowhere&lt;/em&gt; is outside our delivery zone). To help with this, there are various things that help, including Ninja Gear, some of which gives a flat bonus to, say, Climbing rolls. (There are other pieces of gear that grant an automatic success after you have failed; I am not asking about these, they're clear enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you play (and apply) Ninja Gear that gives a flat bonus after you have failed the roll, or do you have to have the gear in play before rolling?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The manual says two things about this :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &quot;If you come to a hard roll, don’t be shy about asking for help&quot; (implying that you need the gear before the roll)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &quot;If you fail any roll, and cannot turn your failure into success by making a legal re-roll, &lt;strong&gt;playing a card&lt;/strong&gt;, or using a special ability, you have failed the mission.&quot; (Implying that playing a +1 bonus after the roll might work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T21:34:52.373" Title="Can you play a piece of Ninja Gear that gives a flat bonus to turn a failed roll into a success?" Tags="|ninja-burger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9554" CreationDate="2012-12-19T19:31:58.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of &lt;strong&gt;thesunneversets&lt;/strong&gt; observations that a legal version of the card doesn't contain the Original versions &quot;treat this as a Dragon-Type Monster&quot;, that shouldn't matter in this situation. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/en/rulebook/YGO_RuleBook_EN-v8.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; splits &lt;strong&gt;Effect Monsters&lt;/strong&gt; into five categories, one of which is &lt;strong&gt;Continuous Effect&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This effect is active while the Effect Monster Card is face-up on the field. The effect starts when the face-up monster appears on the field, and ends once that monster is gone or is no longer faceup; there is no trigger for its activation. These monsters are most useful if you have a strategy to protect them while they are on the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the card is in he graveyard, it's rules text doesn't apply. Unless the card specifically says otherwise like &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Zombie_World&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zombie World&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Gemini_Monster&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gemini Monster&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T19:31:58.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9558" CreationDate="2012-12-19T19:56:04.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/ninjaburger/img/NB_SNDTE_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; under Fortune Cards (page 4): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you fail a skill roll, but you have a useful item in your hand and enough money, you may buy that item from your hand. If it gives you an automatic success or increases your skill enough that you succeed, then you made your roll!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2012-12-19T21:34:52.373" LastActivityDate="2012-12-19T21:34:52.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43010" CreationDate="2012-12-20T13:39:51.263" Score="17" ViewCount="23999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played MTG for a while, but I still own about 500 cards. Some of them were from &lt;em&gt;pre-built&lt;/em&gt; decks, but now the cards are all randomized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have the full inventory (quantity and name) on a text file. Although I've seen a lot of programs that allow you to build and share decks, I'm looking for something that &lt;em&gt;searches&lt;/em&gt; for a deck based on the cards you have (or on a list you provide).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; I may have misguided you with my explanation, so here it goes in different words. I want to know what decks are out there that I can build with the cards &lt;strong&gt;I have&lt;/strong&gt;. Something like: here's the list of cards I possess; show me what decks exist that I can build with them, without needing to buy more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3654" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-20T15:01:26.777" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T17:58:50.220" Title="Software to search for MTG decks based on a list of cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9561" CreationDate="2012-12-20T14:25:17.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for competitive decklists, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgtop8.com/search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MtgTop8&lt;/a&gt; has a nice deck database that you can query by card name (even several cards at a time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you want a place where you can build your decklists and share them, &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-decks/search/?q=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TappedOut&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty popular site. They don't feature a &quot;card name&quot; field in their search engine, but they do look into card names for matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for the original pre-built decklists, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic%3a_The_Gathering_theme_decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; compiles all the links to the official Wizards of the Coast site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1262" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T14:25:17.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9561" CreationDate="2012-12-20T14:32:33.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_theme_decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_theme_decks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This is a list of pre-build decks if you know what set there from you should be able to find your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T14:32:33.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9561" CreationDate="2012-12-20T19:42:27.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the aforementioned sites, Star City Games' &lt;a href=&quot;https://old.starcitygames.com/decks/search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deck database&lt;/a&gt; also has a number of decklists from various formats, searchable both by individual cards and combinations of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, I think the thrust of the question is somewhat misguided; if the goal is to be &lt;em&gt;competitive&lt;/em&gt; then you'll have much more luck by making strategic trades and the occasional purchase rather than building to the needs of your current collection.  If the intent is somewhat more casual, then I think there's an argument to be made that much of the enjoyment comes out of building your own and exploring (or discovering!) cards and interactions that you hadn't paid close attention to before.  If all you want to do is play the &lt;em&gt;game&lt;/em&gt; (as opposed to the deckbuilding 'game'), you're probably better off either with preconstructed product or with a limited format (draft or, if you really want to stick with your present collection, a homemade cube built from the materials 'at hand' - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150207042127/www.cubedrafting.com/what-is-the-cube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;What Is A Cube? on cubedrafting.com&lt;/a&gt; for an introduction to the subject).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-06T06:03:00.887" LastActivityDate="2022-05-06T06:03:00.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9571" CreationDate="2012-12-20T20:52:30.400" Score="2" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;The idea of a detailed board game simulating evolution sounds awesome. I understand that &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/97915/bios-megafauna&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bios: Megafauna&lt;/a&gt; is a more recent reworking of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/639/american-megafauna&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Megafauna&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm quite unclear on the differences. From my limited reading, it also sounds like these games are part of a larger gaming arc, since I've heard mention that it's possible to combine these games with others by the same designer. That's all I know though, and I'm interested in picking one of these up for Christmas. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What was the intention with the reimplementation?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the principal differences?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there specific reasons to prefer one over the other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can these games be combined with others, or expanded?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T14:10:44.103" Title="What are the differences between American Megafauna and Bios: Megafauna?" Tags="|american-megafauna|bios-megafauna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9569" CreationDate="2012-12-20T21:22:05.103" Score="16" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;The professor has an ability to reduce san loss by 1. Therefore, he is able to cast any number of spells for free! Is this meant to be so overpowering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1951" LastEditorUserId="2358" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T22:35:39.757" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T22:35:39.757" Title="Does Harvey Walters' ability to reduce Sanity loss by 1 break the game?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9567" CreationDate="2012-12-20T21:22:05.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Harvey_Walters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Wiki&lt;/a&gt;, a later expansion clarified that the ability does not apply to spells or any other voluntary san loss, only involuntary. Therefore, he's not actually meant to be so powerful. If there's errata for the base game, I couldn't find any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1951" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:22:05.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9567" CreationDate="2012-12-20T21:37:41.987" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 4 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt; from the Fantasy Flight website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Does the Strong Mind ability (reduce all Sanity loss &#xA;  by 1) of the professor, Harvey Walters, apply to the casting of spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No. The professor’s ability works on losses, not costs. &#xA;  The same distinction applies to the gangster, Michael &#xA;  McGlen, and his ability to reduce Stamina losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:37:41.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9561" CreationDate="2012-12-20T21:54:54.077" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deckcheck.de/search.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deckcheck&lt;/a&gt; has a nice search function if you want to do it yourself.  If you just want to play and don't enjoy the deck building all that much (which probably is mine and my friends favorite part) I think the best result will come from help of others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask your friend who likes deck building.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it a challenge at a MtG forum. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask for help at a forum. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use it as a cube.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I strongly suggest that you have a go at it yourself. Maybe you'll enjoy it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2012-12-20T21:54:54.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9565" CreationDate="2012-12-21T04:24:35.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In both games you are playing a phylum of either mammals or lizards (250 million years ago or so).  You place your creatures on an ever-changing board, seeking out biomes that (a) have food you can eat (including other creatures) and (b) give advantages to your genetic advantages (such as being amphibious, being fast, having armor, etc).  You acquire these genetic advantages during the course of play (more later on that), and you can spin off new species that share some of the genetics of the parent species.  The world is not a stable place, though, and the board changes frequently, generally becoming harsher (i.e. you need more of these genetic advantages to remain viable).  Placement is governed by proximity to your existing creatures and size (bigger creatures can move farther).  Tangentially, I note that in both games we have found the rules to be poorly-organized and somewhat confusing to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In American Megafauna, genetic advantages (&quot;DNA&quot;) come out one at a time and players bid on them.  When you spin off a new species you inherit all of the DNA of the parent (I think).  You have 14 counters for each of four species, and the game supports four players (five with the expansion).  So the board can get fairly crowded.  DNA is tracked by little cardboard tents on a playing mat, which &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/6065/1315&quot;&gt;are pretty hard to see across the table&lt;/a&gt;.  The winner is the player with the most creatures on the board when the game ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bios Megafauna makes several changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding mechanism for DNA is completely revamped.  Several cards are dealt out on the table; the cards represent a mix of DNA and opportunities to start new species.  A player can take the first card for free, pay one for the second, pay two for the third, and so on.  If you take a card with payment tokens on it, you get them.  Tokens are quite limited.  Cards are replenished, coming in at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways to spin off new creatures.  One is similar to the earlier game, but you choose which traits to inherit and indicate them with a limited pool of tokens.  So, for example, you may have one &quot;nocturnal&quot; chit that you can use for this, and once it's gone it's gone.  The other way is with cards.  A species card will indicate several genes, and to play it you must match at least half of them with an existing creature (which will be the parent).  So if you have a creature that's marine, nocturnal, and doubly speedy, and the card has marine, speed, armor, and insectivore, you can use it.  The new creature has the DNA on the card.  New creatures can therefore have DNA that you didn't previously have represented, which is handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably because of the connection to other games (which use the same idea), Bios Megafauna adds non-DNA characteristics that you can also acquire through cards (things like manual dexterity, language, and a couple others I'm forgetting).  These can give some additional advantages, but in our games they haven't really been well-integrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When tiles (mostly biomes) are removed from the board they go into a pile that will eventually turn into victory points.  Points are distributed multiple times during the game based on population at that time -- so instead of &quot;biggest at the end wins&quot;, you have several checks and players' fortunes can ebb and flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many fewer creatures in play.  You get eight tokens (wooden counters now rather than cardboard tents) per species (still four of those), &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you have to spend some of them on &quot;tracks&quot; -- one to indicate your current size, and one for each of the &quot;roadrunner&quot; DNA (nocturnal, speed, armor, marine).  So yeah, go ahead and acquire those traits, but you do it at the cost of board position.  In our games it has not been uncommon to have only one or two tokens of a species on the board.  (In both games, if you go to zero that species is extinct -- flush the cards, reclaim your tokens, and carry on.)  The game supports up to four players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding physical aspects, the biome tiles are larger (so easier to see) and the annoying little tents are gone.  However, DNA for any given species is now represented by the combination of counters on tracks, DNA on cards, and the chits used in spinning off creatures.  Add to this that the counters for the different species are not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; visually distinct from a distance, and we have found that it's just as hard to see what that tasty morsel you're considering eating has in place as it used to be, but it's differently hard.  In both games players are constantly having to ask each other questions like &quot;how speedy is that guy again?&quot; and &quot;does that have armor?&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotally, I have heard that &quot;total party kills&quot; -- that is, world-destroying events that end the game -- are much less likely in the new game, and that this was one motivating factor.  Beyond that I don't know why the author reimplemented the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new game is designed to fit into a family of games in ways that aren't entirely clear to me.  We have played one of these, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/29256/origins-how-we-became-human&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Origins: How We Became Human&lt;/a&gt;, once; it shares the non-DNA traits of Bios Megafauna but the rules are very different.  As the name implies, it is set later in time.  I haven't played it enough to make further connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to choose between American and Bios?  Both have merits and both can make play difficult in different ways.  It seems to be easier to recover from misfortune in Bios and the cards provide more options; American is a harder and I think harsher game, which may be what you want sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T14:10:44.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9574" CreationDate="2012-12-21T06:42:03.067" Score="4" ViewCount="5228" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referring to the original game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a unit is under attack from Province X, can it still interfere with the actions of a unit on Province Y?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;English&lt;/em&gt; fleet unit on &quot;English Channel&quot; ordered to &lt;strong&gt;convoy&lt;/strong&gt; an army unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;French&lt;/em&gt; fleet unit on &quot;Mid Atlantic Ocean&quot; ordered to &lt;strong&gt;move&lt;/strong&gt; to &quot;English Channel&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;English&lt;/em&gt; fleet unit on &quot;Irish Sea&quot; ordered to &lt;strong&gt;move&lt;/strong&gt; to &quot;Mid Atlantic Ocean&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the order #3 should keep the fleet unit at &quot;Mid Atlantic Ocean&quot; busy in the stand off and thus not able to interfere with the convoy. I've been told this is not the case but we could not find verification in the rule book. Can someone please explain?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dipwiki.com/images/3/31/Standard_map_c.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image of the Diplomacy board&lt;/a&gt; if it helps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3656" LastEditorUserId="5819" LastEditDate="2013-09-11T14:49:08.243" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T14:49:08.243" Title="&quot;Diplomacy&quot; rule clarification, unit under attack" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9573" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-21T07:52:39.513" Score="10" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a game where both Chapel and Steward are present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the copper split is 4/3, is it better to pick up a Chapel or a Steward?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you think of any situations where you'd pick up Steward if the split was 5/2?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="282" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T15:39:38.467" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T02:11:06.537" Title="Is it better to pick up a Chapel or Steward?" Tags="|dominion|trashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9572" CreationDate="2012-12-21T08:27:22.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All good. Only way to disrupt a convoy is to dislodge the convoying fleet unit. So even if order #3 was not present, the convoy action would proceed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3656" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T08:27:22.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9580" CreationDate="2012-12-21T12:12:49.177" Score="5" ViewCount="788" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Harvey Walters prevent the loss of one Sanity when he:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;uses an elder sign?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;succeed in reading a tome?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which part of &lt;em&gt;The Dunwich Horror Rulebook&lt;/em&gt; (page 10) apply? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Strong Mind ability only applies to involuntary losses. Voluntary expenditures to gain some benefit (such as casting a Spell) are not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To read a book gives some benefit (such as clue token or spell) so Sanity loss &lt;strong&gt;is not prevented?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To use elder sign doesn't give a benefit to the character himself (he  seals a gate and removes a doom token) so Sanity loss &lt;strong&gt;is prevented?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="3302" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T12:20:37.100" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T14:45:06.567" Title="Arkham: Harvey Walters Sanity loss for tome or elder sign" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9600" CreationDate="2012-12-21T13:10:04.930" Score="53" ViewCount="40287" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've often heard it said that the Urza Block (Urza's Saga, Urza's Journey, Urza's Destiny) was the most powerful, broken block in Magic history, with decks able to win on turn 1 or 2. I also saw it stated (in some MaRo article) that something like 20 cards were eventually banned from that standard format in an attempt to restore balance. However, I've never seen a good, detailed explanation of what, exactly, went wrong, which cards were to blame, and how the uber-powerful decks of that era actually worked. Can anybody here offer an explanation or a link to an external source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T12:26:13.300" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T14:16:47.947" Title="What exactly was so broken about Urza's Block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|history|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-21T13:25:38.333" Score="4" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a prototype with stackable tiles in several different shapes. I 3D-printed some tiles that lock together nicely, but it is too expensive to 3D-print all the tiles I need to make multiple copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution so far is printing out the tiles on card stock, gluing to a bristol (i.e. presentation board) covering with a plastic sheet usually used to cover books. On the bottom I glue a layer of non slide rubber sheet to encourage pieces to stay in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cut the board into tiles with a utility knife and a straight edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does anyone have better ways of making tiles that don't slide much?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am making the game board the same way but I am having trouble getting the bubbles out from under the coating. Any tips?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can a stack paper cutter be used to cut out the tiles which are 4 layers thick?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3657" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T16:51:54.580" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T22:12:06.497" Title="How can I cheaply and easily create stackable tiles?" Tags="|game-design|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9573" CreationDate="2012-12-21T13:39:42.800" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what other supply cards you want in your deck and what attack cards are present on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chapel is powerful because you can use it trash your entire starting deck in a couple of turns. The downfall is that in the short term, for those couple of turns your buys will be either non-existent or will be very low. If you buy a chapel, do not count on getting to $5-6 early. If you absolutely do not want coppers and estates this is the card to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steward is a little bit more rounded. Its trash curve is slower and will involve you having to pick between trashing or playing it for one of its other options each turn. This can help you get to $5-6 sooner which can be extremely powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;strategies for 5/2 opening steward buy: disclaimer, these are heavily supply specific and were generated off the top of my head: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;One situation where I might pick up a steward on a 5/2 is for a steward &amp;amp; embargo opening. I would then proceed to place embargo tokens onto steward. I would only consider this if steward was the only trash card in the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steward + fools gold sounds pretty fun. Use the trash early to trash non-fools golds, leaving u with 2 cards that can hopefully buy you more fools gold. Later in the game, use it for the draw power to draw fools gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another situation I might consider is steward + squire if there are good attacks on the board. The first couple turns, you should trash coppers and estates while picking up more squires. then start trashing them and picking up attack cards (this will work especially great with cultist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T16:10:22.257" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T16:10:22.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9575" CreationDate="2012-12-21T14:29:10.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm gonna throw some text at you (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the text on Necronomicon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exhaust and spend 2 movement points to make a Lore (-2) check. If you pass, draw 1 Spell and &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; 2 Sanity. If you fail, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the text on Elder Sign:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When sealing a gate, &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; 1 Stamina and 1 Sanity and return this card&#xA;  to the box. You do not need to make a skill check or spend any Clue&#xA;  tokens to seal the gate. In addition, remove one doom token from the&#xA;  Ancient One's doom track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Harvey's Strong Mind ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Strong Mind - Any Phase: Harvey reduces all Sanity &lt;strong&gt;losses&lt;/strong&gt; he suffers by 1, to a minimum of 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the 'Casting Spells' section of the AH rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every spell has a casting modifier, and most have a Sanity &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally from the Fantasy Flight FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Does the Strong Mind ability (reduce all Sanity loss &#xA;  by 1) of the professor, Harvey Walters, apply to the casting of spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No. The professor’s ability works on &lt;strong&gt;losses&lt;/strong&gt;, not &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;costs&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &#xA;  The same distinction applies to the gangster, Michael &#xA;  McGlen, and his ability to reduce Stamina losses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see where'd you be confused due to the wording in the DH rulebook, but Harvey would reduce the sanity loss from both tomes and the Elder Sign. It's a fine line between paying some price in order to activate some ability and losing something due to activating some ability. If the text in question specifically states &lt;code&gt;loss&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;loses&lt;/code&gt;, etc. then damage reduction abilities can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;For an additional example of cost vs. loss, consider the card 'Pentagram of Blood' from the Curse of the Dark Pharaoh expansion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard this card and X Stamina to ward your current street.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or from the revised edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spend X Stamina and discard this card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loss&lt;/strong&gt; of staminia isn't explicitly called out in either of those ability descriptions. You could almost break it down as a 'Do X to do Y, then Z'. The necronomicon is '..spend 2 movement...to make a Lore (-2) check...then lose 2 sanity'. This wording structure won't work all the time, but hopefully it'll aid in determining when damage reduction abilities can apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2012-12-21T14:45:06.567" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T14:45:06.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2012-12-21T15:00:54.520" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been several times in MtG history that the game was broken for a while. Black Summer, with the proliferation of Necropotence decks, Affinity decks that abused cheap artifacts and artifact lands, and Combo Winter that resulted in the largest number of bannings. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr59&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater&lt;/a&gt; discusses why cards get banned and restricted. While not all the cards are from Urza block, about half are, and Mark includes some interesting information about the prototype versions of some of the cards and why they are broken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lotus Petal (banned in Extended, restricted in Vintage) – This card shows how crazy Black Lotus is. During Tempest design, I thought it would be flavorful to make new “fixed” Black Lotus. Since I liked the idea of a 0 cost artifact, I lowered the number of mana it produced. The development team even questioned if it was too weak. In the end though we felt like the card might find some use in a very niche deck. I guess the niche decks were degenerate decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timeline_of_DCI_bans_and_restrictions&quot;&gt;timeline of DCI banning/restrictions&lt;/a&gt; is available if you just want to know the timing of the various bannings. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/home/silvestri-says-bannings-and-you/&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt; has some nice background on Combo Winter, some examples of Pro Tour decks, and links to tournament reports of what decks were being played at the time. It has an interesting piece from Randy Buehler on why Memory Jar was emergency banned, the first and only card to be banned before its release. If memory serves, Wizards even offered replacement packs if you opened a Memory Jar, because it was unplayable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“The one card that was ever subject to an emergency ban was Memory Jar, which has the unfortunate text “draw seven cards” on it. However, the power of Memory Jar itself isn’t why the DCI broke with its normal policy of quarterly changes. The only reason the DCI chose not to wait until the next regularly scheduled dates was because the very health of the Magic game was being threatened by “Combo Winter.” Urza’s Saga was four months old when Memory Jar came out in Urza’s Legacy. During those four months, there was a large and loud public outcry about the way the game was being ruined by all the “broken” cards in Saga. Since Saga was affecting all Constructed formats, not just Extended, there wasn’t anywhere for Magic players who didn’t like combos to go. They either played against a steady stream of combo decks, or they didn’t play at all. The DCI’s first round of bannings in December 1998 didn’t fix things and players began leaving the game in droves. It was vitally important to the health of the game to clean things up before too many more players walked away, so quite a large number of cards were included in the DCI’s March 1, 1999 announcement, which would become effective April 1 of that year. Players were optimistic that Combo Winter was finally going to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T15:00:54.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9573" CreationDate="2012-12-21T18:03:59.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would (almost) always prefer Chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, if Chapel's on the board, I will buy it before my first shuffle, almost no matter what. This is because I love putting together combos, and Chapel is the fastest way to thin a deck, which then removes most of the chance from getting a combo to go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ColinD's 5/2 hypotheticals all sound playable. (Steward/Fool's Gold sounds especially fun to me, especially if you can get another cheap card with +Buy.) But in every one of those cases, I think Chapel would work better than Steward. For example, in the Fool's Gold case, you can literally trash everything but Fool's Gold (and the Chapel) very quickly. If you can pick up a Market or two (or anything with +Buy) you'll soon buy out the Fool's Golds -- and that's the point when you want card draw. After the Fool's Gold pile is empty is the appropriate time to pick up an action for card-draw, though hopefully there's something better than Steward's +2 Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing about Chapel is that it makes your deck &lt;em&gt;fast&lt;/em&gt;. If you open Chapel/Silver and start trashing like crazy (and if you open with a Chapel you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; buy something else that produces coin or gains cards), pretty soon you'll be down to a 7 or 8-card deck with no chaff. The good cards you've bought come up again really quick. It's fine if your non-Chapeling opponent has 2 Golds and you only have one if you're playing yours almost &lt;em&gt;every turn&lt;/em&gt;! The situation is even better for terminal actions: a single Goons in an 8-card deck is much better than 2 Goons in a 16-card deck because it'll come up just as frequently and there's absolutely &lt;strong&gt;no risk of collision&lt;/strong&gt;. This is why Chapel is so good at setting up engines: the engine cards are about the only ones in your deck, so they come up together every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decide up front if you're going to use Chapel; if you are, buy it before the first shuffle. Waiting for an unlucky $2 hand defeats the purpose of Chapel: speed. With Chapel, you want to trash all the Coppers and Estates ASAP, and if you've waited a few turns and already bought several other cards you want to hang on to, you've already missed the boat on the Chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When not to use Chapel:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't use Chapel for a Big Money. Big Money + Chapel is slightly slower than just Big Money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chapel is great because it can trash 4 cards at a time. Chapel is not great when your hand is small. If you've discarded down to 3 cards, your Chapel is now a crappy Steward, lacking the options that round Steward out into a useful card. Chapel is fast enough that expensive discard attacks (especially Goons ($6), but also Ghost Ship ($5) and Margrave ($5)) aren't too concerning. (Torturer even less so, just take the curse and immediately trash it.) But Militia and even Cutpurse can get in the way. This is especially true in &gt; 2-player games where you have more than one opponent causing you to discard. If you almost always have a hand with &amp;lt; 5 cards, Steward is probably a better choice than Chapel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jack-of-All-Trades can also compete with Chapel. Chapel will be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more effective at setting up an engine, but it needs to be a darn good engine to beat &quot;doublejack&quot; (Big Money + 2 Jack-of-All-Trades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@User1873 astutely pointed out that you need to consider available card-stealing/trashing attacks in evaluating Chapel. Thief, Noble Brigand, Pirate Ship, etc. steal/trash treasures and make a Chapel strategy riskier. A lucky attack or two could leave you in the unfortunate situation of needing to buy Coppers to afford a Silver! Any heavy trashing increases your treasure density so much as to make treasure-stealing cards very appealing. Masquerade can also make you give up good cards if they're the only ones left in your deck. Like the drawback of discarding attacks, the risks are exacerbated if several opponents are using stealers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-07-23T02:11:06.537" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T02:11:06.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9578" CreationDate="2012-12-21T19:09:22.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use full sheet magnetic labels.  Print onto cardstock, adhere magnetic sheet to the back, cut out tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3658" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T19:09:22.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="885" CreationDate="2012-12-21T19:26:44.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Furiten is when you are unable to win on a tile due to certain circumstances. There are about 3 different circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One type of furiten is when you previously discarded a tile that you needed to complete your hand. Let's say if you go for a hand without honors, 1s or 9s(a hand called 'tanyao', worth 1 han), and you have a double wait of 3 or 5 circles to win. If you have previously thrown 3 circles, even if it was taken by someone when they did a chi/pong/kong, you are unable to take the tile if someone else discards it. You are, however able to take it from the wall yourself and win with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second type is when you ignore a tile needed to complete your winning hand. Similiar to the previous situation, but this time you are waiting for a 1 or 4 circles to win. You have neither thrown the 1 or 4 circles previously. Let's say someone throws the 1. If 'tanyao' is your only yaku, you obviously are unable to win it. So you pass on it. However, this puts you in a state of temporary furiten. If within the same turn(before you get to take another tile), someone throws the 4, you are unable to claim the tile for your win. If someone does a pong/kong, you will remain in furiten until your turn comes again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third type is when you declare 'riichi', and ignore a winning tile. Since riichi is already a yaku, you are able to win even without any other yaku. Let's say you are waiting for a 1 or 4 circles(again). You have neither thrown either tile previously. Someone throws   the 1. If you don't claim it, you will be declared furiten for the REST OF THE ROUND. Same goes if you draw a 1 and discard it. In other words, your hand will be permanently declared invalid til the next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source: i love mahjong~ :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3659" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T19:26:44.500" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10935" CreationDate="2012-12-21T21:14:08.793" Score="4" ViewCount="9159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I installed Microsoft's Solitaire Collection, but in Klondike I cannot set any option to deal only one card in every 'turn'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible somehow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: Ian Hutchinson pointed to an important thing: in the game there is two different &quot;Settings&quot; menu. One is available from the front page, after you logged in (automatically) and game chooser menu is displayed. The second one is available &lt;strong&gt;only after you already started a game&lt;/strong&gt; (Klondike in this case). So, if you want change, it will generate a loss in the statistics if you do not finish a 3-card game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3660" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T20:35:42.883" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T20:35:42.883" Title="Can I deal just one card at a time in Klondike?" Tags="|solitaire|computers|klondike-solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9578" CreationDate="2012-12-21T22:12:06.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Best bet for multiple &quot;3d&quot; sets: 3-D Print off a master of each type, then use resin casting to make as many as you need. Or use a single type, and print circular labels that go inside a recess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for bubble removal - an insulin syringe. that microfine needle barely leaves a mark, and can suck half a cc of air out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better, however, to not get bubbles in the first place... so, you set an edge past the edge of the meaningful area, the use a rolling pin or squeegee to press it flat from there over. I've also found it better to expose the lamination and put the paper onto it, than to place the laminate onto the paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T22:12:06.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9586" CreationDate="2012-12-21T22:31:30.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Klondike solitaire traditonally requires that you deal yourself three cards, and can only play the &quot;top&quot; card from that deal. Once you play the top card, the card below becomes available. If Microsoft removed the three card restriction,there wouldn't be much of a game left. At that point, the game would devolve into discovering if a required card was buried in one of the stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-21T22:31:30.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9590" CreationDate="2012-12-22T03:11:21.977" Score="7" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family and I have played several games of Alhambra now, and while we're still relative beginners, we've noticed that we rarely if ever choose to redesign our Alhambras (move tiles to or from our boards). In fact, I think its happened less than 5 times in our past 5 games. Is this normal? The only time we really redesign is after we've bought a tile we couldn't use to deprive someone else of it and have nothing better to do with our turn. Otherwise, its just way too expensive in terms of lost opportunities to take money or buy tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should a player choose to redesign their Alhambra? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T03:39:58.843" Title="When should I choose to redesign my Alhambra?" Tags="|alhambra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9589" CreationDate="2012-12-22T03:39:58.843" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I'm concerned, your intuitions through play are &lt;strong&gt;correct&lt;/strong&gt;.  Redesigning your Alhambra is an action of last resort, rather than an action a player is likely to take multiple times per game.  Quite often I don't redesign my Alhambra at all during the course of a game.  If you can construct a reasonably expansive Alhambra where it is easy to add new tiles no matter what their configuration of walls, you may well not need to resort to a redesign at any point in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, just because a strategy is not that universally great, doesn't mean you shouldn't use it if circumstances dictate that it is the right one.  I find that, in the early game, going all-out for walls tends to be beneficial, and if you do this you may end up in a situation where there are tiles you want to buy but can't currently place.  In such cases, it makes sense to grab those tiles for your reserve and use a redesign action at some point in the second or third round to make your Alhambra easier to expand.  Likewise, it would often seem foolish to pass up on a tile that you can buy for exact money, just because you can't place it.  You can offset the action you lose by placing the tile in your reserve with the action you've gained by buying for exact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally taking a good money card, or combination of money cards, will be the correct play, before or after buying a tile for exact price.  On the other hand, I usually find that at least once per game you will be confronted with a mediocre selection of money (let's say 5 5 4 4, in unappealing colours).  Such occasions give you a prime opportunity for a redesign of your Alhambra, and dump the inferior money picks on your opponents instead of yourself.  Would you really rather pick up a poor money card, and open up much better picks for your neighbour?  Sometimes picking up &lt;em&gt;the money that is available&lt;/em&gt; is an actively unappealing option, and this gives you a prime chance to perform a useful Alhambra redesign action instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, most of the time an Alhambra redesign is not the optimum play, but there will usually be at least one occasion during a game where there isn't much else you need to do with your turn, making it not a bad play at all.  The player who remains flexible and gives himself the opportunity to change  their strategy via a well-timed Alhambra redesign will win more games, on average, than the player who fixates on a one-track strategy that can be stymied by a bad run of luck. (Case in point: I played against someone who ended the game with about 9 tiles in their reserve the other week. If they'd been imaginative enough to do an Alhambra redesign to open up their board at some point, instead of waiting for the tiles to arrive that would fit into their wall arrangement... they'd definitely have done a lot better in that game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T03:39:58.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2012-12-22T10:44:00.450" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am certainly no guru, and I play MTG very casually compared to some. I think the reason the Urza block got mixed reactions was the introduction of some powerfully good cards, and the number of these cards, that these days (certainly in modern format that my group plays mostly) probably aren't that powerful at all! The game of MTG has changed over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group have fond memories of that block! Gaea's Cradle. Serra Avatar. Defence of the Heart. Congregate. Crazy days!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3662" LastActivityDate="2012-12-22T10:44:00.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9594" CreationDate="2012-12-23T02:54:58.247" Score="2" ViewCount="4066" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a face-down creature has a &amp;quot;When this dies [...]&amp;quot; effect (i.e. because of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ixidron&quot;&gt;Ixidron&lt;/a&gt;), will that effect activate when it dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T17:04:39.807" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T17:04:39.807" Title="Do face-down creatures with death trigger activate normally?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9592" CreationDate="2012-12-23T03:02:32.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will not, if that ability was granted from some rules text on the card. It will if something else is granting it that ability after Ixidron turned it face-down (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cauldron%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cauldron of Souls&lt;/a&gt;).from the CR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;707.2a If a face-up permanent is turned face down by a spell or ability, it becomes a 2/2 face-down creature with &lt;strong&gt;no text&lt;/strong&gt;, no name, no subtypes, no expansion symbol, and no mana cost. These values are the copiable values of that object’s characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no turn-based actions that instruct you to turn a creature face up when they go to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.6. A permanent's status is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two possible values: tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, face up/face down, and phased in/phased out. Each permanent always has one of these values for each of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.6c &lt;strong&gt;A permanent retains its status until a spell, ability, or turn-based action changes it&lt;/strong&gt;, even if that status is not relevant to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-23T14:36:32.463" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T14:36:32.463" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9592" CreationDate="2012-12-23T06:38:36.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes, if it had one, but the creature lost that ability when it was turned face-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When this dies&amp;quot; is a leaves-the-battlefield ability [603.6c], and leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward [603.3d].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it doesn't matter what abilities the creature would have if it was face-up or will have in the graveyard; all that matters is what ability it actually does have. Only leaves-the-battlefield abilities the face-down creature has just prior to dying will trigger when it dies. Normally, that wouldn't be any, but some cards (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cauldron%20Haze&quot;&gt;Cauldron Haze&lt;/a&gt;) could grant them some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-12-23T07:47:18.100" LastActivityDate="2012-12-23T07:47:18.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9655" CreationDate="2012-12-24T00:27:49.683" Score="3" ViewCount="3513" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;The Seafarers of Catan&quot; the pirate can be used to steal resources from another player by putting him on a hex adjacent to one of their ships. Is it also allowed to place the pirate on the water frame around the edge of the board? In certain circumstances this is the only water next to a player's ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T14:35:52.087" Title="Can the pirate be placed on the edge of the board?" Tags="|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9598" CreationDate="2012-12-24T04:12:46.443" Score="7" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like there would never be any reason to attack yourself in Stratego.. unless you do screw up the placement of your pieces like a noob. So I ask, can you attack yourself? Of course, it doesn't say so in the rules, probably because they hope no one is stupid enough to need to. I'd like an answer with some kind of reference or &quot;proof&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3668" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T05:23:04.267" Title="Can you attack yourself?" Tags="|stratego|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9597" CreationDate="2012-12-24T05:23:04.267" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; From p. 4 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Stratego.PDF&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Pieces] cannot move into a onto a square occupied by another piece (unless attacking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from p. 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To attack on your turn, take your attacking piece and lightly tap &lt;strong&gt;your opponent's&lt;/strong&gt; piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only attack your opponent's pieces, and your own pieces cannot share a square in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T05:23:04.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2012-12-24T06:05:35.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/seafarers_rv_rules_111105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state (p6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like the Robber, you place the pirate in the center of any hex you choose— except that you may only place it on a sea hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The frame is not composed of hexes, you cannot place the pirate on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2012-12-24T06:05:35.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2012-12-24T16:07:18.770" Score="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;Preface: I've been drafting this for a few days now. I focused on the cards that were banned, because those were the most broken. I'm sure there were dozens of other combos not included here, and this is by no means giving the fullest extent of how the cards could be used to maximize their broken-ness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first step is to take a look at what cards were available at the time. Mirage had just rotated out, which leaves us with the Tempest block and of course Urza's block. This leaves us with some very powerful 0 and 1 mana artifacts: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Petal&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ornithopter&quot;&gt;Ornithopter&lt;/a&gt;, and to a lesser extent, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellbook&quot;&gt;Spellbook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with Lotus Petal and Mox Diamond, you have yourself 2 mana available on your first turn without playing a land. (To be fair, both of those are part of Mirage, not Urza's.)Those mana can go into a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grim%20Monolith&quot;&gt;Grim Monolith&lt;/a&gt;, which in turn gives you 3 mana when tapped. Make your land drop a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tolarian%20Academy&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt; and suddenly you have 6 mana available on your first turn, and you only needed four cards to do it. I think we can agree that 6 mana on the first turn is broken in an innumerable number of ways. This led the Academy to be the first to be banned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with the Academy was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windfall&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt;. This was broken for a couple of reasons. First, consider a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divination&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt;, which has a card advantage of 1 for 3 mana at sorcery speed. (You draw two cards, but you had to spend 1 card to do it). When you also consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azure%20Mage&quot;&gt;Azure Mage&lt;/a&gt; it becomes clear that in blue, 3 or 4 mana is appropriate for 1 in-hand card advantage. Now, consider how fast you blow through cards here: you dropped four cards (lotus, mox, grim, and academy) as well as any other 0 drop artifacts, and use a Windfall. You discard your 0 or 1 non-playable cards and pick up 7 more. Your opponent dumps all 7 of his and draws 7 more. You just gained 6 or 7 card advantage for 3 mana. That just isn't competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other aspect of Windfall is that your opponent is also playing combo. It was not uncommon for people to mull down to 4 to get their combo. While this will lower the card advantage you get from Windfall, it essentially &lt;strong&gt;wastes your opponent's mull!&lt;/strong&gt; He now has to settle for whatever 4 or 5 crap cards are on the top of his deck. If you went first, then your opponent has not had an opportunity to play, but now is facing you with at least 6 cards on the battlefield, the ability to generate 6 or more mana a turn, and to top it all off, you just gave him a complete crap hand instead of the one he mulled to get. Bummer. So understandably, those were the first two to get banned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the next round of bans, you see &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dream%20Halls&quot;&gt;Dream Halls&lt;/a&gt; get the axe. Now, without Academy and Windfall to pump up your early mana, this isn't as effective. It was costed such that you can't use it until turn 5, and you have to use two cards to do it instead of one. So since they were expecting you'd use this on turn 4 or 5, it would end up being very damaging. And under normal circumstances, it is. But there's one small problem. You &lt;em&gt;discard&lt;/em&gt; that other card instead of paying the cost. This is supposed to make it so you can't use it. But &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5629&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth's Will&lt;/a&gt; made it so you could use it. If you Dream Halled two cards, you could cast the other two cards with Yawgmoth's Will. And with all the mana you have and card draw available, it's reasonable to pull this off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one that was banned was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Earthcraft&quot;&gt;Earthcraft&lt;/a&gt;. This card used to look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures you control have: T: untap a target basic land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it was decided that splicing text onto cards was a bad thing. So it was changed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap an untapped creature you control: untap a target basic land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the name of being easier to work with. Unfortunately, it had the side effect of making creatures with summoning sickness able to tap for mana, which is decidedly overpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fluctuator&quot;&gt;Fluctuator&lt;/a&gt; was banned because there's about 40ish legal cards with cycling, and they're all (Cycling 2). So they all basically let you loot them for free to burn through your deck. Cycling for free is broken. This combo didn't take much to come together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Petal&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt; was banned for the combo listed out above, and I'm sure there were dozens of variants of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Recurring%20Nightmare&quot;&gt;Recurring Nightmare&lt;/a&gt; was banned because three mana and a creature (Probably 0 mana) was too little to return a creature from the graveyard to the battlefield, considering it goes back to your hand, not the graveyard (even if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yawgmoth%27s%20Will&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth&amp;#39;s Will&lt;/a&gt; is active). It's even worse when the cards coming back are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Great%20Whale&quot;&gt;Great Whale&lt;/a&gt;, which yields infinite mana (although the infinite mana combo requires four lands on the board, and most games didn't last even that long!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Spiral&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt; was the last of the second round to be banned from standard. It had the same problem windfall did, where you got to draw seven cards (including spells you've already played! How convenient!) and get the massive card advantage. Now this is 6 mana, not 3, and we know there's a gigantic difference between 3 and 6 (way way way more than twice as much). But as we've established, you can get 6 mana on your first turn... And to top it all off, you get to untap 6 lands. Umm, yes that's just a little too powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next big card to get the axe is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20over%20Matter&quot;&gt;Mind over Matter&lt;/a&gt;. This is simple: you discard (which we've established there's already massive card advantage here, which lessens the penalty...) and you get to untap an artifact (with academy, mana, or the mana artifacts themselves), creature (with earthcraft, mana, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;), or land (mana). So you get even bigger mana amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Jar&quot;&gt;Memory Jar&lt;/a&gt; was so broken it was the only card to get an emergency ban. Basically you get to draw and play with 7 cards. As we've established your hand empties faster than a AK with a 14 round clip, you're going to get most of those cards out the turn you play it. And since 5 mana isn't all that much to get on turn 1, you might end up with this on turn 1, which when combined with another draw combo will give you access to 20 or more cards on turn 1. Broken? Yep. Unlike windfall, this doesn't kopper your opponents starting hand, as he'll get it back at the end of the turn. But you'll have another 4 or 5 permanents on the board, so what's he really going to do to you at this point anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, these probably have even better ways to get the most out of them. But hopefully this gives an idea of exactly how these things were broken, and why Wizards reacted the way they did with all the bans. For what it's worth, this is the first genuine test of Wizards reacting to the fan base, and I would go so far as to say their biggest mistake up until that point and even to this day (needless to say they learned many lessons from it!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit to add: I take it back. Their biggest mistake to this day is the reserved list, and I'm happy to die on that hill. &amp;lt;3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2021-08-16T14:16:47.947" LastActivityDate="2021-08-16T14:16:47.947" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9602" CreationDate="2012-12-25T00:51:07.360" Score="5" ViewCount="1148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical situation: you fly into an enemy sector and pin some ships there with your ships. Now the enemy builds some starbases to pin your ship and let them be pinned so he can move his ships out of the sector (and into yours). Is this legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="1315" LastEditDate="2012-12-25T16:20:25.480" LastActivityDate="2012-12-25T16:20:25.480" Title="Can starbases be pinned?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9601" CreationDate="2012-12-25T03:34:42.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starbases are classified as &quot;Ships&quot; (see page 6 of the manual), and despite their lack of a drive they work exactly like any other Ship as far as the game mechanics are concerned.  This would include being able to pin, or be pinned by, opposing Ships. (see also &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8103963#8103963&quot;&gt;this response&lt;/a&gt; by one of the game designers to a related question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per page 14, the relevant rules for pinning are,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your Ships move into a hex, or out from a hex, containing other players' or Ancient Ships, at least one Ship per each opposing Ship must stay (the Ship is said to be &quot;pinned&quot;)...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  If you later on move or build more Ships to the hex, you may change which Ships are pinned.  The original Ships may move, as long as one Ship per each opposing Ship stays pinned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the rules clearly specify &quot;Ship&quot; without qualifying it further, they would apply to Starbases as they would any other Ship.  So yes, the move was legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2012-12-25T03:34:42.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9633" CreationDate="2012-12-26T01:42:03.547" Score="14" ViewCount="5590" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't Break the Ice&lt;/strong&gt; is a children's game, where players take turns using mallets to knock pieces of ice away from the playing field. The playfield is composed of a (6 x 6) grid of single square blocks, except for the 2x2 block that the skating bear is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LWIyN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;playfield&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object of the game is to not break the ice and have the bear fall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an winning strategy?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, for which player? Assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player only knocks out &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; block of their choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocks are 'sticky' and will cling to each other along any edge, and so:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game ends when the center 2x2 square has been disconnected from the exterior of the 6x6 square; that is, when there is no orthogonal (connected along the edges) path from any cell outside the 6x6 square to a cell in the interior of the central 2x2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1246" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T21:38:30.507" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T03:57:26.067" Title="Does a winning strategy exist for Don't Break the Ice?" Tags="|dont-break-the-ice|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9608" CreationDate="2012-12-26T13:03:34.493" Score="9" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the runner access an agenda which gives them enough points to win the game, but the corporation is Jinteki and deals 1 net damage as a result which is enough to kill the player and win the game, which side wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the general rules on triggered abilities and simultaneous actions state that the player who's turn it is can resolve the order, but it isn't clear if this applies to win conditions as well. This would mean the runner wins in this situation, is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T01:21:28.290" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T01:21:28.290" Title="Is there an action window to trigger abilities once the point limit has been reached?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9606" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-26T13:07:24.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/124742/android-netrunner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Android: Netrunner&lt;/a&gt; is a reimplementation of the original collectible card game Netrunner. It is an asymmetrical two-player card game set in the cyberpunk Android universe, published by Fantasy Flight Games as a Living Card Game (LCG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One player plays as a Corporation, trying to advance agendas and score them for points. While trying to score them, he must defend them from the other player, a Runner, whose objective is to steal the Corporation's agendas. The winner is the first person to score/steal 7 points worth of agendas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Corporation can play agendas (as well as assets that might help his game-plan) onto remote servers and defend those servers with ICE - counter-measures which can hinder the Runner's ability to access those cards - while he spends money advancing those agendas in an effort to score them. He can also play ambushes as traps, which will punish the Runner if he accesses them. The Corporation's cards are typically played face-down and can be &quot;rezzed&quot; (i.e. activated) and paid for at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the Runner has access to resources, hardware and programs to help him steal the Corporation's agendas. In particular, he has Icebreakers which are programs that can allow the Runner to overcome certain types of ICE. As well as running on (i.e. attempting to access) the remote servers, the Runner can also run on the Corporation's central servers - overcoming ICE if necessary - and access cards from his deck, hand or discard pile. But the Runner has to be careful, encountering ICE that he cannot overcome will trigger its subroutines, which may only end the run, but could also damage him, trash his programs or have other effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Android: Netrunner follows Fantasy Flight's LCG model, so card distribution is fixed and there is no random element to purchasing cards. The core set has enough to build decks for any of the four Corporation and three Runner factions. &quot;Data Packs&quot; are expansions released each month that contain three copies each of twenty extra cards and provide new options for all seven factions, including neutral Corporation and Runner cards that can help any faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building custom decks, you choose an Identity that represents a faction and can choose cards from that faction or neutral cards. You also have a limited ability to mix in out-of-faction cards as long as they fit within an &quot;influence&quot; budget that each Identity has. Your final deck must have at least as many cards as your Identity's minimum and no more than three copies of any specific card. Additionally, Corporations have further restrictions regarding the minimum number of points worth of agendas that must be in their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2018 Fantasy Flight Games was not able to renew the license to the Intellectual Property from Wizards of the Coast. New cards and sets are no longer being produced by the company. The fan base is still fairly strong and the players are trying to keep the game alive through community lead events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions about the original game Netrunner are tagged &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/netrunner-ccg&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;netrunner-ccg&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;netrunner-ccg&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T16:09:34.047" LastActivityDate="2018-11-27T16:09:34.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9607" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-26T13:07:24.083" Score="0" Body="Android: Netrunner is a cyberpunk-themed asymmetrical living card game edition based on the original CCG Netrunner. Players take the role of either a corporation or a runner and attempt to advance or steal agendas to win.  &#xD;&#xA;Not to be confused with Netrunner, the 1996 the game by Richard Garfield." OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T21:17:46.260" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T21:17:46.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9605" CreationDate="2012-12-26T14:25:29.560" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not actually completely simultaneous; the Runner wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Android: Netrunner FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the Runner steals an agenda from Jinteki using the core set identity, but has no cards in hand, who wins?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The Runner wins the&#xA;  game. Whenever a player has 7 or more  agenda points in his score&#xA;  area, the game immediately ends. The  game ending takes precedence&#xA;  over any conditional ability that  triggers when an agenda is stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T14:25:29.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9604" CreationDate="2012-12-26T21:14:41.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, an optimal strategy, in the sense of a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nash_equilibrium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nash equilibrium&lt;/a&gt;, certainly must exist.  However, based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Don&amp;#39;t_Break_the_Ice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the description of the game on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, I see some difficulties in finding such a strategy in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it appears the the game is non-deterministic, so the optimal strategy can only be optimal in a statistical sense &amp;mdash; it cannot guarantee victory for any player.  Second, the outcomes of different moves appear to depend on the physical properties of the blocks, which means that calculating the optimal strategy would first require developing an accurate model of the game physics, and then fitting the model to actual measurements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That's not completely impossible &amp;mdash; for example, it has been done for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.derepas.com/petco/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pass the Pigs&lt;/a&gt;, but that's a simpler example, since the pigs in Pass the Pigs don't really interact with each other much.  In that respect, Don't Break the Ice seems closer to, say, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4245/are-there-any-specific-strategies-in-jenga&quot;&gt;Jenga&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I'm not sure how consistent the physical properties of the game pieces are, or how likely they are to change over time due to age or wear.  If the behavior of the pieces varies too much, a strategy calculated for one particular game set may not be optimal for another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, however, it might still be possible to come up with a deterministic (or at least consistently non-deterministic) approximation of the game, and then analyse that approximation.  I'm not familiar enough with the game in question to suggest what such an approximation might look like, though, except for some very crude features (e.g. that completely disconnecting the center from the edges of the playing field should surely be a losing move).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2012-12-26T21:14:41.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9611" CreationDate="2012-12-27T03:02:55.690" Score="4" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if this is a legal use of the card's effects since IPPT Dragon's effect does state that when a monster on my side of field is destroyed I can special it. Considering that my card being destroyed is Witch of the Black Forest, and that the card I choose using Witch's effect is IPPT dragon, would I be able to special IPPT Dragon? &#xA;I know Witch is a banned card, this is for my own personal duels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IPPT= Interplanetarypurplythorny&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T17:41:49.503" Title="Can I summon Interplanetarypurplythorny Dragon using Witch of the Black Forest's effect" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2012-12-27T04:32:56.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not be able to get the Interplanetarypurplythorny Dragon from the effect of Witch of the Black Forest's and activate its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because the last thing to happen isn't a monster being destroyed but rather a monster being added to hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already had Interplanetarypurplythorny Dragon in your hand and Witch of the Black Forest is being destroyed, you still retain the priority to activate an effect after the mandatory effect of Witch of the Black Forest goes on the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3676" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T04:32:56.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9626" CreationDate="2012-12-27T08:28:58.123" Score="8" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Preface&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is about Doom: The Boardgame. I have translated the rules and items etc. from my native tongue to english to the best of my knowledge, so please be gentle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you are playing a campaign. A marine has found a piece of armor in scenario I and did not die in that one afterwards. So he starts with armor +1 in scenario II. Now the question is: What happens, if the marine dies (kill) in scenario II. Does he respawn with armor +0 or +1 ? Does it make a difference when he has bought the armor using killpoints instead of finding it in one scenario ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My interpretation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A killed marine respawns with the initial amount of armor and health. (rulebook)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A marine starts a scenario with the armor and health of the previous scenario (campaign book)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;has lead me to the conclusion, that if e.g. Martin the marine starts scenario II with armor 2+1 and health 4 (of maximum 9) and he dies within the scenario, the he respawns with armor 2+1 and health 4 (while maximum remains 9 of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this interpretation is both counterintuitive (regarding health) and (maybe) a balance issue (regarding &lt;strong&gt;found&lt;/strong&gt; armor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-27T09:54:25.873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T07:53:16.873" Title="What happens to armor a marine has gained during a campaign when he dies?" Tags="|doom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2012-12-27T10:18:51.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I would suggest that it's possible! The frame is just a convenience feature of &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/ksr/projects/341969/photo-full.jpg?1348257994&quot;&gt;newer editions&lt;/a&gt; and was &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.fanpop.com/images/image_uploads/Settlers-Of-Catan-settlers-of-catan-519786_747_600.jpg&quot;&gt;originally composed&lt;/a&gt; of normal water hexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3680" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T10:18:51.993" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-27T10:26:01.670" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for the games &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.albepavo.com/SAKE/sake_overview-en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sake &amp;amp; Samurai&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.albepavo.com/SAKE/beer_overview-en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beer &amp;amp; Vikings&lt;/a&gt; allow dead players to &quot;torment&quot; players that are still living by stealing their Sake/Beer tokens. But any player is always allowed to &quot;Burn up&quot; as many Sake/Beer tokens as he likes to perform special actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should any dead player ever successfully steal a token when the target of the &quot;tormenting&quot; can simply burn up all tokens that might be stolen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3680" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-09-24T20:45:16.773" LastActivityDate="2018-09-24T20:45:16.773" Title="Sake &amp; Samurai / Beer &amp; Vikings: Burning up spirits while being tormented" Tags="|sake-and-samurai|beer-and-vikings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2012-12-27T14:14:53.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are allowed to do this. But this kind of trade implies an agreement between the buyer and the vendor to make the player who is about to get the properties lose. So your case is a matter of fair play with the player who is about to get the properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case you decided to do such a thing against player 1 to make him lose. You did not cheat but you was not fair play too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T14:14:53.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9617" CreationDate="2012-12-27T15:15:49.937" Score="16" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm well aware of the randomizers available for Dominion, but how do you determine which sets to include in a randomizer? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I own Base, Intrigue, Seaside, Prosperity &amp;amp; Dark Ages. Lately, I've been using a randomizer between all the sets but I feel like I'm losing out on the built in interactions. How do you do it? Do you choose a handful of sets? If so, how do you determine which ones and how many?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3391" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T21:38:33.497" Title="How do you determine which Dominion sets to play with?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9616" CreationDate="2012-12-27T15:31:02.280" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no general way to pick the sets besides picking ones that you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally restrict myself to 2-4 sets of cards because I like to play with at least 2-3 cards from each set I am playing with (this is especially true if playing with alchemy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the only 2 sets that I have found to clash, and its not even that bad when they do, are dark ages and hinterlands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also consider reading this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6425/does-mixing-dominion-expansions-lessen-the-power-of-card-combinations-in-random&quot;&gt;Does mixing Dominion expansions lessen the power of card combinations in random kingdom setups?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T15:59:25.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9616" CreationDate="2012-12-27T21:38:33.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One interesting houserule we have successfully experimented with is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first four cards are chosen randomly from all your randomizers. After that, every further randomizer is discarded unless it matches a set from one of the first four, until you have ten cards total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method usually gives cards from 3 sets; sometimes 4 and rarely 2 (and very rarely 1, but I've never seen it!). You could of course tweak the number to your taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T21:38:33.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9620" CreationDate="2012-12-27T22:43:30.673" Score="4" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play &lt;code&gt;Refreshing Walk&lt;/code&gt; (2 Move and 1 Heal) prior to a combat and then use the heal provided after the combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T23:08:57.033" Title="Accumulation and timing of heal" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9619" CreationDate="2012-12-27T23:08:57.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Refreshing Walk can only be played in the movement phase; the right to use the healing part of the effect expires before the combat phase (in which healing effects can't be played anyway).  By the time combat has finished, the window of opportunity to benefit from the healing qualities of the Refreshing Walk is long since over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be quite bizarre to be able to save parts of an effect and have them happen in the distant future in general, I think (unless such a possibility was specifically allowed in writing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-27T23:08:57.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9622" CreationDate="2012-12-28T01:09:16.957" Score="1" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I change the order of two of the game's phases: Buy units and Combat move? What will it change? What are the benefits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T12:35:34.267" Title="Changing the order of phases in Axis &amp; Allies" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2012-12-28T01:09:16.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the order of play, the game is designed so that you buy your units &lt;strong&gt;guessing on&lt;/strong&gt; what you will need next turn, after the results of all the combats from now until then, including the results of &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if the order of buy units and combat move are exchanged?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the players would first make the combat moves, then buy their units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What will it change? As long as you do it before any dice is rolled (resolving any combat) you will still have to buy according to your guess on the results of the battles of your turn, so that aspect will not be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the benefit? More insight.  For beginners and for big maps (excessive maps, actually) like 1940, the player has definitely much more insight of what he can loose and he can need after the combat is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After introducing the game to a few new players, actually just finishing a game right now :), I wanted to share this small detail. It makes life a bit simpler. &#xA;In tripleA (computer game similar to this) one of the maps actually implements this modified rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[based on kirst's answer below]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd include the AA gun's combat move fire after the purchase. First place the aircraft in their destination with a die on each that passed through an AA gun, after buying units, resolve AA fire and after that resolve combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A list of the games that use AA fire during combat and non combat move would be useful, I think this rule was abandoned for the mos recent editions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="3565" LastEditDate="2014-01-25T12:35:34.267" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T12:35:34.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9625" CreationDate="2012-12-28T02:23:53.147" Score="2" ViewCount="456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the game rule book provides balanced setup to play with different extensions. We just bought Cornucopia, but the French rule book did not provided a setup to play with Prosperity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We would like to know if there is any idea on an interesting setup to use with these two extensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We use the Dominion Intrigue as our base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2012-12-28T03:13:15.623" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T03:21:51.603" Title="Prosperity - Cornucopia card set" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|dominion-cornucopia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14695" CreationDate="2012-12-28T03:19:08.183" Score="3" ViewCount="254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been using morphing jar a couple times and it's helped out sometimes. Sometimes it hasn't. &#xA;Wondering if someone with a little more experience would run it. &#xA;Of course, engine consists of most Chaos Dragon deck cards (cause I don't have all of them aha)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T16:36:18.077" Title="morphing jar in a chaos dragon-like deck. yes or no?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9623" CreationDate="2012-12-28T03:21:51.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no &quot;official&quot; kingdom sets for Prosperity and Cornucopia. Personally, I like it when both Tournament (from Cornucopia) and Colonies (from Prosperity) are out, because it tempts people to try to buy some Provinces and end the game on piles. Even more interesting if Bishop is out, so you could potentially trash the Provinces for decent points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend just playing random sets until you find interactions you like. For generating random sets, I like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/&lt;/a&gt;, but there's lots of other tools out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T03:21:51.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9612" CreationDate="2012-12-28T07:53:16.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a player of the Doom board game, but I'm a player of many other board games and the Doom computer game and therefore think I can make a fair interpretation as to what the rulebook and campaign book rules might mean together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think rule 1 (A killed marine...) means that at any time the marine is killed &lt;strong&gt;during&lt;/strong&gt; a scenario he will respawn with the default (as in without any items and bonuses) armour and health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second rule (A marine starts a scenario...) in my opinion is not contrary to that because it refers to the &lt;strong&gt;beginning&lt;/strong&gt; of a scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a marine is killed &lt;strong&gt;during&lt;/strong&gt; the scenario then rule 1 applies and rule 2 does not, if it is the &lt;strong&gt;beginning&lt;/strong&gt; of the scenario rule 2 applies. This seems to match with the Doom computer game, if you finish a level you can take the armour and life to the next level, however if you are killed during a level you respawn with the default armour (0 I believe) and the default health (100 I believe) at the beginning of the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T07:53:16.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9614" CreationDate="2012-12-28T09:34:58.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creators of the game responded to my inquiry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, this is possible, but if the target burns every token, he/she loses any chance of winning! So tormenting has to be played &quot;not too aggressively&quot; by Spirits, in order for the target to agree to a little loss - that's usually how we see it played!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3680" LastActivityDate="2012-12-28T09:34:58.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9676" CreationDate="2012-12-28T20:55:42.570" Score="7" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any fair rules for shortening the playing time of Power Grid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems obvious to end the game on less powered cities (rather than the 17 default), but this often skews the phase 2 for the non-leading players. I've considered also moving phase 2 sooner as well. Does anyone have any good ways to shorten the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T20:44:25.290" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T22:27:28.053" Title="House rules to reduce the game play time of Power Grid" Tags="|house-rules|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-28T23:42:41.413" Score="7" ViewCount="5330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to learn how to play the Game 7 Wonders. How many of what resources do each of the wonders start the game with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instruction manual never actually tells you how to know what resources each wonder starts out the game with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3686" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T16:41:26.017" Title="7 Wonders Resource Clarification" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9629" CreationDate="2012-12-29T00:39:30.023" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resource is pictured in the upper left. You can see it in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;rules on page 8 or 9&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Colossus of Rhodes: Ore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Hanging Gardens of Babylon: Clay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Pyramids of Giza: Stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Lighthouse of Alexandria: Glass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Mausoleum of Halicarnassus: Textile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Temple of Artemis in Ephesus: Papyrus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Statue of Zeus in Olympia: Timber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T00:39:30.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9634" CreationDate="2012-12-29T00:51:57.603" Score="13" ViewCount="4284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played half a dozen games of Agricola — enough to get a feel for it, but not enough to know all of the cards or really weigh their balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my impression that the Basic and Interactive decks are roughly the same in power, just with (as expected!) more player interaction in the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignoring any &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/1414/317&quot;&gt;particular cards that might be outliers&lt;/a&gt;, is the Complex deck simply more involved to use, or are the cards in it generally more powerful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T17:24:58.837" Title="Is the Complex deck in Agricola strictly better?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8276" CreationDate="2012-12-29T02:28:43.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a strict reading of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/BHH_SurvivalRev_120105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, I would say no. Presumably, the dolls still do damage to you until they are destroyed. It wouldn't make much sense if you could remove them from their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/BHH_TraitorRev_120105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;precarious positions&lt;/a&gt; and still take damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you must &lt;strong&gt;find the dolls in the room&lt;/strong&gt; and destroy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you find a doll, you can automatically destroy it if it corresponds to you. You can find the location of any doll, but you can only safely destroy your own doll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T02:28:43.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9604" CreationDate="2012-12-29T04:33:28.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's very little point in bothering to remove blocks under the conditions specified for the simplified version; the only cells that can ever be removed by becoming isolated are the four cells diagonally (but not horizontally) adjacent to the central block.  All the cells on outer 6x6 ring are, of course, always connected, and all of the rest but those four cells are connected to the inner 2x2 block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The four cells on the outer corners of the board can be ignored for connectivity purposes; there's no path through them that doesn't also touch another edge of the board.  Thus, they effectively serve as 'pass' moves, a move that can be taken without affecting the board in any meaningful way.  What's more, since the game is symmetric, if it's to one player's strategic advantage to pass then it's to the other player's as well; thus, a pass should always be followed by another pass.  Since the passes come in pairs (4 total) then they have no meaningful effect on the gameplay either and can be ignored in computing the game's outcome; you might as well leave those cells empty from the beginning.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These simplifications (along with a lot of transposition tables) put the game into eminently-analyzeable range.  Since the 4 central cells can't be knocked out and the 4 outer-corner cells don't matter, there are effectively 28 cells whose state can meaningfully change; this means that the game has 2&lt;sup&gt;28&lt;/sup&gt; positions in total.  That's just 256M positions, and since you can store a position's value in a single bit, then you could actually hold the complete 'truth table' (this position is a winning or losing position) in just 32 megabytes.  If you want to be fancy, you could even add an additional bit indicating whether the position is 'already lost' (i.e., whether it's connected or disconnected), doubling your storage but making things a bit easier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's more, building that truth table is straightforward; the position with 0 bits on is impossible, so its value doesn't matter.  All positions with one bit on are lost for whomever has just moved to them.  From those you can compute the value of all positions with two bits on (or even more simply, just fill in the ones that aren't lost: the eight positions with one 'interior' cell and one adjacent 'exterior' cell on).  From those, you can compute the value of all three-bit positions; etc.  This wouldn't take more than a day to write and probably less than 5 or 10 minutes to run on any decently-powered modern machine, assuming the algorithms were done well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are sufficient amounts of interest, I can try and put something together to find the final value, but it'll take me a day or two; it's also eminently possible that it could be solved with a quick case analysis, since 90% of the connectivity feels like a 'red herring' and (aside from the 'interior corner' cells) the problem is almost entirely a matter of knocking out either an interior cell or both the adjacent exterior and adjacent interior-corner cells.  It ought to be analyzable as the sum of four 'mini-games', one for each of the four corners of the board (but be careful - in the standard parlance the game is &lt;em&gt;misere&lt;/em&gt; and not normal, so normal nim-sums can't be applied to it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T04:33:28.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9631" CreationDate="2012-12-29T12:25:53.110" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My initial, gut reaction to this question is &quot;no, the Complex deck is not intrinsically more powerful&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, it has some truly standout cards in it - Wet Nurse, I'm looking at you - but for every one of those it has a card with little to no good applications, e.g. Smallholder.  There are some strong Minor Improvements, but again, as well as all the excellent cards there are near-last-picks-in-draft like Yoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the E and I decks weak?  I'd say not, not really.  Occupations like Clay Mixer or Field Watchman, used well, can be just as powerful as anything in the K-deck.  A Plough is pretty much a Plough, and I'm always happy to have access to one, whichever deck it comes out of.  Some of my favourite Minor Improvements of all are to be found in the E-deck: Private Forest, or the potentially completely insane Clay Supports.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often draft all the sets mixed together and I'm pretty sure I've never observed any kind of phenomenon of K-cards being snapped up quickly and E- and I-cards being left till later.  If anything, because what you want is cards that have simple positive effects and work well together, too many K-cards with lots of complicated text are liable to be counterproductive.  Yes, you'll first pick Wet Nurse if you see her.  But you'll spend the rest of the draft trying to pick up straightforward utility Improvements and Occupations that back up the strategy suggested by your first pick.  As such, my intuition is that I probably favour Basic and Interactive cards over Complex ones at most stages in a draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl;dr: Complexity can be very powerful, when it does things that are not normally permitted in a game of Agricola.  But &lt;strong&gt;synergy&lt;/strong&gt; is almost certainly more important.  And it tends to be easier to find synergies between simple cards than involved ones.  Therefore I strongly suspect the K-deck of being no more powerful, or just a little bit more powerful, than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd be a really interesting experiment to play some games of Agricola between evenly matched players, giving them cards from different decks to play with, though, I must say!  Would kind of defeat the main point of the I-deck, mind you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T12:25:53.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9636" CreationDate="2012-12-29T14:39:59.960" Score="3" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text of a black card weapon is like that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your attack is successful, you give 1 extra point of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the Holy Robe is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your attacks do 1 less damage and the amount of damage you receive from attacks is reduced by 1 point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if someone attacks with a black card weapon a played protected by the Holy Robe and rolls a 1, what happens?&#xA;Does the player take 1 or 0 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3082" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T15:39:40.827" Title="Shadow Hunters: Holy Robe versus black card weapon" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9635" CreationDate="2012-12-29T15:39:40.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best way of considering this is to imagine that Holy Robe reads &quot;the amount of damage to receive from successful attacks is reduced by 1 point&quot;.  If so, it's clear that an attack with a black card weapon would deal 1 + 1 - 1 = 1 point of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you have to ponder the question of whether a Holy Robe could make an attack &quot;unsuccessful&quot; &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; damage is dealt.  I think it's easier just to go with the implication of the rulebook, which states in the Attack section &quot;If both dice rolled have the same number, your attack fails and no damage is inflicted&quot;; I take this to mean that an attack &lt;em&gt;fails&lt;/em&gt; if it would do less than 1 damage based solely on the die roll, and &lt;em&gt;succeeds&lt;/em&gt; otherwise.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we have determined that the attack is successful and would all else being equal deal damage, we apply all modifiers, which in the case of your question above cancel each other out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T15:39:40.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9629" CreationDate="2012-12-29T16:41:26.017" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question indicates a common misunderstanding of the way resources work in 7 Wonders. &lt;strong&gt;Resources are not collected and spent&lt;/strong&gt;; you can build any card (building or Wonder stage) that requires resources as long as you have your own access to those resources, or pay a neighbor for the temporary use of theirs. If you do not have the required resources, and cannot acquire them from your neighbors, you can't build the card or Wonder stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coins work differently as a building cost; when they are required, such as for the brown split-resource cards, they are paid to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2012-12-29T16:41:26.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-29T19:34:05.923" Score="7" ViewCount="3269" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried searching the game, but all I got were complicated instructions. So in basic rules, how do you play senet and what do the different symbols mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" OwnerDisplayName="Daniel Palamarchuk" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T23:51:17.347" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T23:51:17.347" Title="What are the rules of the game Senet?" Tags="|senet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9639" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2012-12-30T00:43:43.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Netrunner is a cyberpunk-themed collectible card game. The two players are the Corp (who wins by completing Agendas) and the Runner (who wins by infiltrating the Corp and liberating Agendas). When the game was released in 1996, many gaming magazines gave Netrunner critical acclaim as the best CCG of its time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with Android: Netrunner, first published by Fantasy Flight Games in 2012 and based on this game. Questions about Android:Netrunner are tagged &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/android-netrunner&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;android-netrunner&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;android-netrunner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T20:51:00.237" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T20:51:00.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9640" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2012-12-30T00:43:43.110" Score="0" Body="For questions about the 1996 game Netrunner designed by Richard Garfield.&#xD;&#xA;Not to be confused with Android: Netrunner, a 2012 game published by FantasyFlight based on this game." OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T20:20:31.733" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T20:20:31.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9638" CreationDate="2012-12-30T01:16:49.900" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original rules have been lost. There are two competing interpretations about how the game might have been played. These rules are usually used when the game is reprinted these days. One version is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.brandeis.edu/~storer/JimPuzzles/GAMES/Senet/INFO/WalkersRulesBell.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;R.C. Bell&lt;/a&gt; , the other is &lt;a href=&quot;http://legacy.mos.org/quest/pdf/senet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kendall&lt;/a&gt;. Both rules sets can be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamecabinet.com/history/Senet.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;viewed here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both rule sets believe that this game was a precursor to backgammon. The game was originally played with 4 sticks that were marked on one side. You would move a single pawn 1-5 squares (one for each mark, or 5 for no marks) along the backwards S-path. Two pawns could not occupy the same space. Your own pawns block your movement, and landing on an opponents pawn either swapped (Kendall) or removed (Bell) the piece(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Bell rules&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is played with 10 pawns, five for each player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players add pawns to the board at the specially marked squares based on their roll, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move a pawn already on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special squares are &quot;safe&quot; from attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Landing on an opponents piece removes it from the board, your own pawns block your movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Landing on the last, upper-left square scores that player 5 points and sets the ending alternating pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first player go get all their pieces into the alternating end squares gets 10 points, and one more point for each additional turn their opponent takes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pieces in end squares cannot be attacked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Kendall rules&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is played with 10 pawns, five for each player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pawns start already on the board in an alternating pattern. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Landing on an opponents square swaps positions, your own pawns block your movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next square marked with the Ankh is where pawns go that fail to make their rolls to get off the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The special squares at the end require specific rolls to exit, or send you back to the Ankh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winner is the first to get all their pawns off the board.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DGHPU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Senet glyphs&quot;&gt;&#xA;From (left) - House of Beauty (or Good), House of Humiliation (or Water), House of Three Judges (or Two Truths), House of Two Judges (or Ra-Atum), House of Heru (or Horus).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T15:55:37.793" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T15:55:37.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9643" CreationDate="2012-12-30T09:46:44.017" Score="20" ViewCount="2410" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Netrunner games, &quot;rezzing&quot; a card is the act of revealing and paying for it when you're playing as the Corporation (in the new LCG anyway; I'm not familiar with the original CCG, but I believe it's the same).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The games take a great deal of inspiration from real computing terms for all of their &quot;keywords&quot; but this isn't one I'm familiar with. It must be short for something: &quot;resurrect&quot; is the best I can come up with, but doesn't really make literal sense since you're playing something for the &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; time. &lt;strong&gt;What's the origin of the term?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T18:25:46.267" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T13:11:03.053" Title="What's the etymology of the term &quot;rez&quot; in the Netrunner games?" Tags="|netrunner-ccg|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9642" CreationDate="2012-12-30T14:50:22.387" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is short for &quot;resolve&quot;, and derez is short for &quot;deresolve&quot;. I have seen the terms several times in cyberpunk fiction; the earliest use I can find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://tron.wikia.com/wiki/Rez&quot;&gt;Tron&lt;/a&gt; (1982).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0084827/quotes&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; are some quotes from IMDB. Note that the MCP uses the term &quot;deresolution&quot; when being formal, and the anthropomorphic programs use &quot;de-rezzed&quot; to mean the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2012-12-30T17:50:17.833" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T17:50:17.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9642" CreationDate="2012-12-30T15:11:36.860" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It comes from the movie &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiw2FbHBd14&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tron&lt;/a&gt; (1982). &amp;quot;Rez&amp;quot; is a shorthand slang for the opposite of &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://m.youtube.com/results?q=Is%20he%20derezzing#/watch?v=SPFpcKm0B7U&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;deresolution&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sark: Everything you do or learn will be imprinted on this disc. If you lose your disc, or fail to follow commands, you will be subject to immediate deresolution. That will be all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rez - To call into being.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kevin Flynn: I'm gonna jump! It's the only way to help Tron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yori: Don't. You'll be de-rezzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T13:11:03.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9610" CreationDate="2012-12-30T17:52:23.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you cannot activate 2 effects at once and when the dragon is in your hand, your witch will already be in the graveyard and you can't summon your dragon then. So my the answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastEditorUserId="3688" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T17:41:49.503" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T17:41:49.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2012-12-30T18:26:40.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules (which you can check on &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Monopoly_Deal_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Monopoly wiki page&lt;/a&gt;) say that you absolutely cannot play cards from your hand. You can put hotels and houses into your bank though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-10-05T17:00:13.100" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T17:00:13.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9638" CreationDate="2012-12-30T18:50:20.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try watching this video:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R2bxk5K4J0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6R2bxk5K4J0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3690" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T18:50:20.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9650" CreationDate="2012-12-30T19:03:09.710" Score="8" ViewCount="1795" Body="&lt;p&gt;In explaining this game to people over Christmas, several people independently balked at the idea that the whole house must be upgraded at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a strong reason to enforce this rule? After a few games, it seems like it'd be pretty harmless to allow renovation one room at a time. (New rooms would always be of the highest type, and cards requiring a clay or stone house would only function after complete conversion.) The scoring already supports this easily, and I think the major consequence would be increased availability of expansion-after-renovation. Because each upgrade costs a reed in addition to the materials for the rooms, and because actions are always the most precious resource, it'd still be much more efficient to upgrade all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given that people felt strongly that a piecemeal construction should be allowed, how problematic of a house rule would this be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus, what about allowing individual rooms to be constructed of any material at any time? (With this, unless all of your rooms are converted to clay, new clay rooms would also cost some amount of wood, and similarly going straight to stone would cost additional wood and clay.) This idea adds some complication for not much &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; gameplay gain, but for some reason people found the arbitrary rules of home construction more jarring to the immersive game story than, oh, say, the idea that only one person in a community can sow a field on the same day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T22:39:16.257" Title="How bad would it to be to allow partial house renovation in Agricola?" Tags="|house-rules|agricola|balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2012-12-30T19:26:03.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This will work with all versions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put bombs as decoys, so 2-3 bombs can protect your flag, as for the decoy, put the next strongest guy, so that you can kill the miner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try placing most of the bombs in the front row and leave 1 or 2 spaces with movable pieces (I recommend the scout) so the opponent will have to get all his miners up front who can then be destroyed so the opponent could never reach the flag&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is pretty obvious but remember never to put the flag up front&#xA;Thanks for the reading!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T19:26:03.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9648" CreationDate="2012-12-30T20:41:55.820" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the house rule will be harmless, and also that after playing a few games, no one will take advantage of partial renovation - because it's a terrible idea. It also introduces unnecessary complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Balance:&lt;/strong&gt; The only balance consequence I see is that the Renovation action can be taken much more often than in standard Agricola. In principle, you could use this to deny the action to other players. In practice though, I doubt it would be worth it - there are plenty more valuable things to do than renovate, in most games.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategy:&lt;/strong&gt; You simply &lt;em&gt;do not have time&lt;/em&gt; to upgrade individual rooms. As you point out, that's expensive in reed, but critically, it's using an action each time. And what for? Renovating a single room to Clay gets you a measly one point. If you also require that subsequent rooms must be built of the more expensive material, and that the house doesn't count as Clay until all rooms are completed, then partial renovation is clearly a terrible idea.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Complexity:&lt;/strong&gt; There is already a mechanism for handling surplus goods - purchasing of Improvements. The idea of Renovation is that it's a major action, that takes careful preparation and timing, and may or may not be a good idea, depending on your resources, whether you can buy a Major Improvement at the same time, and whether you need a better house for your Minors or Occupations. In gameplay terms, partial renovation serves no useful purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second rule, about building houses from arbitrary building resources, has the potential for greater impact, but again is complex. It makes it easier to build rooms, while removing the resource niche effect that players get by Renovating. For example, one reason to Renovate to clay might be to make use of clay resources, while everyone else fights it out for wood for their rooms. This house rule would remove that tactical possibility, which is a shame. This is important because rooms are required to have children, and your workers drive the economic engine of the game (this is the reason that cards like Wet Nurse are so powerful). So messing with the room mechanic is not a great idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I think this is a solution in search of a problem. Bear in mind that the many, many Occupations and Minor Improvements allow all sorts of interesting game adjustments, including building options and alternatives. For example the Conservator lets you Renovate to stone in a single action. My advice is to tell your players to deal with the rules as they are, get them more experienced, and move them on to the full game as quickly as possible. With 14 different cards to manage each game, they'll have more than enough to worry about without needing to take issue with odd questions of building realism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T20:41:55.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9648" CreationDate="2012-12-30T22:39:16.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is not so much that partial Renovation would be broken in and of itself - ire_and_curses' answer has given a good account why such a move would usually be a bit of a waste of an action - as that it interacts really terribly with other important aspects of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I immediately thought of the (excellent, well-worth-getting-hold-of) Farmers of the Moor expansion.  If your players are used to a partial Renovation house rule and then get hold of this, they'll have to get unused to the house rule pretty quick.  A Stone House costs 1 Fuel less to heat than a Clay House costs 1 Fuel less to heat than a Wood House.  I don't think you want to start working in fractions of Fuel for partially upgraded homes...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fine, you say, but you think you have no interest in ever getting the expansion.  Even so, tampering with the Renovation rule disrupts the intrinsic balance of the core game too.  What do you do about the many, many cards that have being in a Clay House or a Stone House as a prerequisite?  If a player claims that having 1 Stone Room should entitle them to play the Manservant Occupation, then Houston, we have a problem.  You could say that only a fully-renovated home should ever count for the purposes of such cards, but now your house rule is starting to seem pretty complex.  Even if you are careful not to let it break cards by making some of them too powerful, you'll then inevitably do the opposite - breaking cards by making them too weak.  How good are Occupation/Minor Improvement cards that make it easier to renovate in a game with a house rule that makes it easier for everyone to renovate?  Maybe not quite useless, but less good, that's for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meddling with the ruleset of a finely balanced game such as Agricola is definitely a dangerous course of action.  &quot;After Renovation, also Fences&quot; does not become available as an action space in Round 14 purely by accident, it does so to encourage players to plan ahead to get the maximum bang for the buck of a single action at the very end of the game.  But you have to plan ahead so carefully to achieve that: you have to hoard wood, stone and reed all the way to the end of the game... and you have to be absolutely certain that other players won't go before you and take the squares you need, leaving you with a ton of useless resources in your supply! Allowing partial renovation makes this space considerably less difficult to decide to use, and I think that's a really, really dangerous thing for the game.  There are few games as delicately weighted as Agricola, and almost everything in the core rules is the way it is for a pretty good reason.  Tamper with that balance at your peril!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2012-12-30T22:39:16.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2012-12-31T05:32:57.053" Score="12" ViewCount="2370" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of my friends and I got into an argument about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20of%20the%20Wild&quot;&gt;Essence of the Wild&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Essence on the battlefield, I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fungal%20Sprouting&quot;&gt;Fungal Sprouting&lt;/a&gt; and put 6 1/1 green saproling creature tokens on to battlefield. These saprolings obviously became Essence of the Wild as they entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rootborn%20Defenses&quot;&gt;Rootborn Defenses&lt;/a&gt;, I tried to copy what I assumed was a creature token version of Essence of the Wild (created as described above). This is where the argument occurred. The claim was that I could NOT populate my Essence of the Wild (one of those created with Fungal Sprouting), as the creatures were no longer considered tokens because the card they copy is not a token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they still considered tokens and can I populate them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3693" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T08:30:26.380" LastActivityDate="2018-05-23T11:05:25.410" Title="Are tokens copying Essence of the Wild still tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9653" CreationDate="2012-12-31T07:01:26.767" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A token cannot become a card through copying. It's not one of the things copied [CR 706.2].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A token cannot become a card by any means. A card refers to a physical MTG card [CR 108.2]. The rules cannot create physical objects, and thus, they cannot create cards or change something into a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are still tokens, and thus, you can have populate copy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.2. When a rule or text on a card refers to a “card,” it means only a Magic card. Most Magic games use only traditional Magic cards, which measure approximately 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) by 3.5 inches (8.8 cm). Certain formats also use nontraditional Magic cards, oversized cards that may have different backs. Tokens aren’t considered cards—even a card that represents a token isn’t considered a card for rules purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x20;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.2. When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics and, for an object on the stack, choices made when casting or activating it (mode, targets, the value of X, whether it was kicked, how it will affect multiple targets, and so on). The “copiable values” are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being name, mana cost, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, expansion symbol, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by “as . . . enters the battlefield” and “as . . . is turned face up” abilities that set characteristics, and by abilities that caused the object to be face down. Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2012-12-31T07:19:08.263" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T07:19:08.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9596" CreationDate="2012-12-31T14:35:52.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though Pat provided a formal rule that states that the pirate should be placed only on hexes I want to argue that placing it on the border should be allowed. Simply because the border represents (incomplete) hexes. Also it clearly provides places for boats, settlements and cities there where the normal hexes align with it. The border that my family and I use  even has hex shapes drawn on it, most likely suggesting that they are in fact hexes. Please refer to the photo below. We played a Seafarer's scenario including the Cities&amp;amp;Knights extension. Notice the look of the border, and also notice that the pirate is on the border as we have always played it like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Pmdc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Borders suggesting that they are hexes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2012-12-31T14:35:52.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9662" CreationDate="2013-01-01T00:08:52.907" Score="27" ViewCount="90698" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought a copy of Settlers, and noticed that there was a suggested starting layout that is included in the Almanac. I noticed it was mentioned online as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;new editions of the game also depict a fixed layout in their manual, which has been proven to be fairly even-handed by computer simulations, and recommend this to be used by beginners&quot; &lt;sub&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Settlers_of_Catan#Gameplay&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://setupcatan.com/&quot;&gt;pretty decent tool&lt;/a&gt; for generating &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt; boards, but I find myself flipping through multiple ones that place 6s or 8s next to their respective ports, or place all the clay on 3s, 11s, and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a list of &lt;em&gt;user created&lt;/em&gt; recommended starting positions for tiles? Perhaps for tournament play? What do competitive players do to ensure variety and balance? I understand that the rules say to place the tiles randomly, but it can sometimes lead to long and boring games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have also experimented with a &quot;drafting&quot; of tiles as we lay them down, with rules about putting too many of the same resource touching, or near a port. I'm open to any suggestions in this regard as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T16:55:21.393" LastActivityDate="2021-12-17T18:57:17.533" Title="Where can I find good tile layouts for Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-01T15:01:08.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I see a Catan game drag for lack of resources, it's usually because the stone is in short supply. Two factors can cause this: the stone having poor numbers, of course, and most of the stone being next to poor tiles (the desert, the coast, lousy ports like the stone port, other poor numbers). This means that cities don't get built for a while, which slows the game down, and development cards aren't bought much, which means you might not see the Largest Army or VP card bonuses accelerating the game end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stone is particularly vulnerable to scarcity because there's only three tiles, and building a city requires a lot of stone all at once, so it's difficult to trade with the bank to get enough. By contrast, if brick is in short supply, players can trade their excess wood/sheep/whatever with the bank at their convenience and often use it right away to build the road or settlement. Scarce brick is something that good players will be aware of and work around, of course, but I don't think it slows the game as much as a stone shortage, and I wouldn't fiddle with the board to make more available except maybe with a first-time player at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to prevent this from happening in a game you're playing, an easy house rule/trick is just to swap a bad stone tile with a good tile of some resource that's very abundant, leaving the number chits in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't recommend extensive rules for setting up the board; any time you might gain in the play would be eaten up by the longer setup! I do not play Catan competitively, but I have a friend who plays in convention tournaments, and have never heard him mention any setup other than random. Everyone is playing on the same board, after all, and if one player takes a lead then the others have adequate tools available (the robber, trade embargoes) to slow the leader down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T15:01:08.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-01T16:52:58.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played many of games of Settlers, and I think it's most fun to follow the normal rule of random placement (with pre-determined numbering).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The preset number arrangement keeps sixes and eights from being side-by-side, and depending on where the desert lands, there's usually also strong 5-9-10 points. And, that variable desert keeps it from being identical every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there is a shortage of a key resource, and sometimes everyone looks at the board and groans, but that's part of the genius of the game: each is different, and you learn to adapt your plans to what comes out in the draw. If ore is rare and all the good ore spaces are taken by the time your turn comes up, then it's time to look at a sheep-port strategy or something else — even if it's not what you normally prefer to do. This is an important aspect which keeps the game fresh. It may not always be completely fair, but when you play several games, it all works out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really like the idea of scenarios, take a look at the Seafarers expansion, which comes with a number of pre-designed layouts. The additional rules (including larger boards and multiple islands) allow for a flexibility which makes these more interesting than pre-determined boards for the base game would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastEditorUserId="317" LastEditDate="2013-01-01T21:32:37.450" LastActivityDate="2013-01-01T21:32:37.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-01T23:27:29.927" Score="4" ViewCount="2609" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have been confused by some phrasing in the &quot;How to Summon the Ghost&quot; section in the &lt;em&gt;Secrets of Survival&lt;/em&gt; booklet for haunt 2, &quot;The Scéance&quot;, in &lt;em&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill (2e)&lt;/em&gt;. Emphasized below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each hero can attempt a Knowledge roll or Sanity &#xA;  roll of 5+ to conduct a séance. An explorer can &#xA;  attempt either one of these rolls during his or her &#xA;  turn, but only while that character is in the Pentagram &#xA;  Chamber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time one of these rolls succeeds, put a&#xA;  Knowledge Roll or Sanity Roll token (as appropriate) &#xA;  in the room where the haunt was revealed. &lt;strong&gt;When the &#xA;  heroes have a number of those tokens equal to half &#xA;  the number of players (round down), they've &#xA;  completed the séance.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first inclination is to interpret this as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the players have a number of tokens (each of which may be Knowledge or Sanity) equal to half the number of players (round down), they've completed the séance.&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it seems like it could also mean this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the players have a number of Knowledge tokens and a number of Sanity tokens both equal to half the number of players (round down), they've completed the séance.&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is further confused by the &quot;Right Now&quot; section of the rules, which instruct us to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Set aside a number of Knowledge Roll tokens  (triangular) equal to the number of players. Set aside  an equal&#xA;  number of Sanity Roll tokens (triangular)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How could we ever need a number of either token equal to the number of players? Shouldn't it ask us for the a number of tokens &quot;equal to half the number of players (round down)&quot;? The location of tokens doesn't matter, so as soon as players have aquired the required number there's no reason they'd collect any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the game we checked the &lt;em&gt;Traitor's Tome&lt;/em&gt;, but it didn't help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; We thought there might be some way for the traitor to remove or manipulate tokens so that the extras were neccessary but it didn't mention the tokens at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many of which tokens do the survivors require to summon the ghost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="435" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T06:09:16.443" Title="How many tokens do the survivors require in The Séance in Betrayal at House on the Hill?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-02T01:02:51.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short Answer: No, I've never seen such a list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer Answer: it's pretty easy to generate reasonably fair boards for the starting tile assortment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remembering that the distribution is: Desert, 12, 11, 11, 10, 10, 9, 9, 8, 8, 6, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4, 3, 3, 2...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise using the beginning setups only for a few games. (And for both senses of only - beginning setup only and only for a few games.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, for the next several, use random tile placement and random port placement, with the fixed number sequence, but then swap out a marker so that &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt;(1) no resource has more than one of 6 or 8&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt;(2) at least one stone is in the 5, 6, 8, or 9.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt;(3) it's may be worth avoiding more than 1 each in the 5's and 9's.†&#xA;and then randomize the ports so that&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt;(4) no port is touching its own resource - &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt;(4a) if one is, swap for a generic port; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;&lt;/code&gt;(4b) if two are, swap them with each other&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that after that, you should be able to handle any board that has at least one stone outside the range 2, 3, 11, 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you move on to randomizing number positions, make certain no 6 nor 8 is adjacent to another 6 or 8, and no number is next to itself. This is especially vital on the 5-6 player map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, a &quot;Fair Board&quot; is merely one that allows all players an equal chance to win... but in general, no matter how fair the board is, at least one player in a 4 player game will wind up with a sub-optimal starting position. 2, typically, in the 6-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and the longest game I played was a 3 player where stone was on 6, 6, and 8, and sheep were 5, 8, 9, 9. Wheat wound up 3, 11, 11, 12 - and never got rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, don't stress over it. Just make certain that no resource dominates in the 6's and 8's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;† only with novices do I really worry about that. Competent players can cope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T01:02:51.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-02T10:41:45.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pre-set layout is intended for your first game only. It includes the starting settlement positions. This means that if you haven't played before all players get at least a reasonable starting position, whereas if you picked starting positions on a random board it is highly likely that a novice player would choose a bad starting position as they have no experience with the game, and therefore have a bad playing experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My copy of settlers came with the pre-set layout printed on its own A3 sheet of glossy paper in the box, separate from the rules and Almanac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T10:41:45.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-02T13:32:52.653" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bettersettlers.com/&quot;&gt;Better Settlers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Better Settlers Board Generator is for use with the offline board&#xA;  game Settlers of Catan. Not only does it allow for faster game setup,&#xA;  it generates a fair and engaging game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We love playing Settlers. We've noticed that sometimes the game seems&#xA;  to be over in the first fifteen minutes--and no matter how fairly we&#xA;  try to distribute resources and probabilities during setup, natural&#xA;  bias creeps in. So we developed the Better Settlers Board Generator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The algorithm for the generator is designed to create fair play. The&#xA;  result is more riveting and engaging play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You'll have a better game of Settlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea what the algorithm that they use is, but in all of our games so far its worked fairly well.  There is also an android app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2013-01-02T13:32:52.653" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-02T18:51:01.450" Score="37" ViewCount="109483" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a green &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Infect&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infect&lt;/a&gt; deck. When he declares a creature to attack and I allow it to go through unblocked, he suddenly plays all these Instants that 'pump' the creature up, and because of Infect, it's an instant loss most of the time. We solved that issue (without really understanding the full rules) that it wouldn't make sense to pump his creature up for an instant win without allowing me to block, although recently, my friend told me that 'Instants' can be played 'anytime' so once I allow a creature to deal me damage, technically, he's allowed to play all those Instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really confused about it all, and would like to get an answer once and for all for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, once he has stacked all the pumps for his creature and attacks me (after I initially let it pass to hit my life because I did not expect the pumps) am I allowed to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Holy%20Day&quot;&gt;Holy Day&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3706" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-02T22:11:01.310" LastActivityDate="2018-10-11T02:31:37.667" Title="Can instants be played after I decide not to block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2013-01-02T19:35:36.030" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes, he can cast those instants after you decide not to block. Yes, you can cast 'Holy Day' after he casts all those instants to prevent the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, combat happens in 5 steps:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. begin of combat&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. declare attackers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. declare blockers&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. resolve damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. end of combat&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have a chance to cast instants and activate abilities at the end of each of those steps, including after he declares attackers and you declare blockers. After he casts instants you are also given a chance to casts instants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T05:49:41.093" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T05:49:41.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2013-01-02T20:53:36.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention how many players were in that game, but if I assume there were two, here are the probabilities of that happening to you:&#xA;Step 1 - Having Fools landing be flooded before the game starts - 25% (1 in 4)&#xA;Step 2 - Drawing a water rise card on your first turn (either 1st or 2nd treasure card) 24% chance - P(atleast 1 water rise card) = 1-(21/24*20/23) = 24%&#xA;Step 3 - Assumed you started with a water level of 2 - Having Fools Landing come up from the first flood- 33.33% (1 in 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore for all those three things to happen exactly in that order with the assumptions made, it would only happen 1.98% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There you have it! If you started with more players, or it was the 2nd treasure card on the first turn, or you started the game on a water level of 3 let me know and I'll re-calculate :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3710" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T05:05:08.800" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T05:05:08.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2013-01-02T22:11:08.580" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best way to answer your question is to give a brief outline of the rules regarding the game steps, and timing of playing spells and abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Game Phases and Steps&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a nutshell, here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/500/~/magic%3a-the-gathering%3a-phases-and-steps-in-a-turn&quot;&gt;phases and steps&lt;/a&gt; in a turn of a game of Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning (3 steps: Untap, Upkeep, Draw)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precombat Main&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat (5 steps: Beginning of Combat, Declare Attackers, Declare Blockers, Combat Damage, End of Combat)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Postcombat Main&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ending (2 steps: End Step, Cleanup Step)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of each step (except untap and cleanup*), any abilities that trigger at the start of that step are put on &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/406/~/magic%3a-the-gathering---the-stack&quot;&gt;the stack&lt;/a&gt;, and then the active player (whoever's turn it is) receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priority means you can cast spells, activate abilities or play a land. (Keep in mind that casting non-instant spells, activating some abilities and playing lands can only be done if it's your turn, if it's a Main phase, and if the stack is empty.) If a player is done, they may pass priority. Then, the next player gets priority to play spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all players pass priority, any spells on the stack resolve. After each spell or ability resolves the &lt;em&gt;active player receives priority again.&lt;/em&gt; He may play new fast effects (instant spells or activate abilities.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stack is empty and all players pass priority, the game moves to the next step or phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#42; &amp;mdash; Players don't receive priority during the Untap or Cleanup Step, with one exception during the Cleanup Step. Check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; 514 for more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Stack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/406/~/magic%3a-the-gathering---the-stack&quot;&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;stack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is a holding area for spells and abilities that have been cast or activated (including pumping a creature or playing a spell like Holy Day.) After a spell has been played or an ability activated, it is put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everyone has passed priority, the last-played spell or ability on the stack resolves. It's like a stack of dishes or paper. You deal with the one on top first. After each spell or ability resolves, the active player receives priority again. When all players pass, the next spell on the stack resolves, and so on, until the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You always have a chance to respond to your opponent casting spells and activating abilities to pump his creature (ignoring &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5Bsplit%5D%20%5Bsecond%5D&quot;&gt;Split Second&lt;/a&gt;.) And your opponent can choose to pump his creature during phase 1 &amp;amp; 2, but usually it is most advantageous to do it during the Declare Blockers step of the Combat phase, after blockers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that makes sense. I've tried to boil it down &quot;When can I play instants?&quot; to the essentials and a minimum of caveats and exceptions. Magic has many card interactions and rules to deal with these nitty-gritty details; browse the comprehensive rules if you really want to get into those!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T06:03:40.340" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T06:03:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2013-01-03T08:06:51.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a strategy that I use for Japan. Take Pearl Harbor on turn one with your fleet-- don't purchase any units with your IPC's and build them up for 2 turns to purchase a battleship. On turn 2-3 go after India with all of your might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first two turns, Germany needs to buy Infantry to use them to defend the western front-- meanwhile Germany should focus on crippling Moscow and going after Africa. Germany should also attack the British fleet, otherwise the German fleet is rendered useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turn 3 Japan should use all of their force and go after USA, if USA and UK stockpile their warships, bombers, carriers and can combine their resources--- then Japan can't help much out on the western front. Japan should try to help and prevent this situation from occurring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On turn 4 Japan should try and take the Caucaus (with help from Germany). If Japan gets this then they can help fortify the Western front... If Japan has India they can also purchase bombers to help for fly by attacks. Having the Caucaus is crucial for Germany and Japan to win-- because it allows for the two teams to work together. Solidarity is the key to the Japanese victory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3715" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T08:06:51.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9604" CreationDate="2013-01-03T08:55:55.377" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand the game correctly, there should be a winning strategy for the player going last. If we first disregard the corners, then the bear will fall when the second last block is removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;--X---&#xA;--X---&#xA;--BB--&#xA;--BB--&#xA;------&#xA;------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(or similar)&#xA;Since the number of blocks is even, this block will be removed by the player going first.&#xA;Now, there are two complication. First, the last block removed may include the corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-X----&#xA;-X----&#xA;-XBB--&#xA;--BB--&#xA;------&#xA;------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-X----&#xA;-XX---&#xA;--BB--&#xA;--BB--&#xA;------&#xA;------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the number of remaining blocks is now odd, the player going last would lose. &#xA;Second, a block may fall due to being disconnected. As Steven notes, only four blocks can possibly fall this way. If an odd number of blocks fall, then the player going last will be the one to make the last move in the first setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, both of these can easily be avoided by attacking the corner blocks first. Since it requires two moves to remove a corner block, the second player can always remove the corner block before the first can make it fall, and of course before all side blocks are removed. This ensures that the final position will be of the first kind, and thus that the player going first loses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T08:55:55.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9672" CreationDate="2013-01-03T12:35:26.643" Score="7" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;In A Game of Thrones Second Edition there is an optional rule variant to use the included Tides of Battle (TOB) cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rule book does not mention what is to be done with the discards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been playing that after each battle, all the TOB cards are returned to the deck and it is reshuffled, such that each battle will have the same random chances of getting each card, the only exception being that when the Valyrian Steel Blade is used to draw a new card, the old card is not returned to the deck until after the combat, with the rest of the TOB cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the way we are playing is correct, because I don't think that the way one battle was fought should influence another in any meta-type way. However, some of the players in my group think that the cards should be discarded into a discard pile (like every other deck of cards in the game) and only when it is empty should they be reshuffled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would drastically change the way combat is played out, as players would remember the previous TOB cards drawn and know what advantages and disadvantages they might have in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the official verdict on this? Should the cards be reshuffled each battle to create a more balanced system of combat, or should they only be reshuffled when they run out, so as to create much less balanced and much more calculated battles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T16:39:35.533" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T16:42:46.237" Title="What is done with discarded Tides of Battle cards?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9684" CreationDate="2013-01-03T13:16:56.203" Score="7" ViewCount="4287" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this game you start out by jotting down numbers 1 through 19 on a squared paper into 9 columns (and skip 10, there are no zeroes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6G0vS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Numbers game starting point&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you start striking out numbers that are adjacent (diagonally doesn't count) and are the same numbers or have a sum of ten. Also, the struck out numbers don't count either, for example, if you have 4 &lt;s&gt;5&lt;/s&gt; 6, then you can strike out 4 and 6 (their sum is 10).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b2xcL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Numbers game strike out&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have struck out all the pairs you can find, you write the left over numbers again and look for new pairs. You win if you've struck out all the numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R1Bb0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Numbers game continued&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - does this game have an actual name or is it &quot;that numbers game that everyone played in high school&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3717" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T01:52:58.190" Title="Identify a numbers game where you strike out numbers" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9670" CreationDate="2013-01-03T16:42:46.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/faq/VA65_AGoT2_FAQ_v1_4.pdf&quot;&gt;The FAQ&lt;/a&gt; indicates the cards should be reshuffled each combat, as you have been doing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reshuffling the Tides of Battle deck:&lt;/strong&gt; Immediately before the &quot;Choose&#xA;  and Reveal House Cards&quot; step of every combat, all Tides of Battle&#xA;  cards are reshuffled together to form a new deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T16:42:46.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9675" CreationDate="2013-01-03T17:39:32.637" Score="12" ViewCount="16250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two full sets of Settlers of Catan plus one 5-6 player expansion pack. Originally the second set was bought to replace the older one, which was missing a few pieces and cards.  However, the epicness of the possibility of a huge SoC game entranced me, and I decided to use all three game sets to make one very large game. By cutting three frame pieces, I was able to craft a 48-hex island, suitable for up to 10 players. (Apologies for the cell-phoneness of the photo.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XhaLf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I have two sets each of blue, orange, white, and red wooden pieces, and one set each of green and brown.  By marking half the double sets (dots with a Sharpie), it is possible to differentiate one half of each double color from the other, resulting in ten sets. Sets can also be combined for fewer players.  The development and resource cards which were missing were minimal, so that's not an issue.  But sometimes the wooden pieces pose a problem.  Sometimes, with four players, the green and brown sets are used as backup pieces for the remaining four double sets which are missing a few.  But if I ever want to play with 10 players, I'll have to come up with substitutions, which I'd like to avoid.  Where can I find extra wooden pieces for the original Settlers of Catan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1444" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T21:42:59.793" Title="Where can I purchase extra wood pieces for Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2013-01-03T18:10:30.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replacement parts can be found from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/parts.php?game=55&quot;&gt;Mayfair Games&lt;/a&gt;, although this will match your 4th Edition color pieces. (Older editions came in different colors). If you want &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/parts.php?game=59&quot;&gt;Seafarer's&lt;/a&gt; , or other sets they have those too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan- Pieces&lt;/strong&gt; - Set 4 player -White Blue Red and Orange with Robber ( MFGP3061-41 ) Price: $12.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted some approximate replacements, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/63183/print-play-productions-parts&quot;&gt;PnP Productions&lt;/a&gt; has wooden ships (Seafarer's), wooden blocks (Knights &amp;amp; Cities, city walls), plastic hotels &amp;amp; houses (settlements/cities), and wooden cubes (roads?) in quite a few colors that differ from the original 4th Ed. colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T20:22:53.303" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T20:22:53.303" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9628" CreationDate="2013-01-03T18:11:23.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question, and I'm afraid I don't have a great answer. I think the creators addressed this question a bit with the creation of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25031/power-grid-beneluxcentral-europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Benelux board&lt;/a&gt;. When you play with that board you always remove the lowest power plant. That speeds things up a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3718" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T22:27:28.053" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T22:27:28.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-03T19:10:55.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried contacting Mayfair Games and see if they publish the setups for previous tournament games? Or ask them how boards for a tournament are generated? I know that they print out sheets of layouts so they can build 10 similar boards but how the layout gets generated is a bit of a mystery. My feel is that some &quot;authority&quot; has to create the layouts and send them to all the tournament directors so gameplay at qualifiers through finals is &quot;fair&quot; for everyone. After a layout is used I don;t think it is used again so they should be able to release it in some way/shape/form for others to use and possibly practice on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T19:10:55.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9679" CreationDate="2013-01-03T20:12:54.260" Score="5" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the scoring rules in Agricola makes sense because they reward you for doing well in various categories (like crops and animals). However, I haven't been able to figure out why the rules reward fenced stables with a bonus point. When combined with the fact &lt;em&gt;unfenced&lt;/em&gt; stables can can only hold one animal, this seems like to make unfenced stables unnecessarily weak. Why did the game creators choose to add an extra point for fenced stables?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T20:12:54.260" Title="Why do you get an extra point for each fenced stable in Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9678" CreationDate="2013-01-03T20:12:54.260" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unfenced stables give you a point by removing an unused farmyard space at the end of the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you get -1 point for each unused farmyard space, and stables count as a &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; farmyard space, they are also 'rewarded' with one point. In order to keep the balance, the rules ensure that you effectively get one point for each stable no matter where it is placed. This allows stable placement to be determined solely by your desired animal capacity instead of points for the stables themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the game creators could have removed both of these benefits and given stables no points, but that would have made stables far too weak in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T20:12:54.260" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-01-03T20:12:54.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8018" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:16:32.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually follow the Pandemic model when adding the Waters Rise cards so one doesn't show up the first turn. I create three equal piles after giving everyone two cards. Then I place one waters rise card in roughly the middle of each pile. I thought this was mentioned in the rules, but maybe I'm getting it confused with Pandemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what do you do if you draw two Waters Rise cards in a turn? Do you flip over double the number of land cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3718" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T21:16:32.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:25:42.230" Score="4" ViewCount="1858" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible Duplicate:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8923/are-copied-spells-cast-from-the-graveyard&quot;&gt;Are copied spells cast from the graveyard?&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIncreasing%20Devotion%5d&quot;&gt;Increasing Devotion&lt;/a&gt; is copied and its Flashback cost has been paid, does the copy count as being cast from a graveyard? So would you end up with double the tokens with your copied spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3720" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T00:18:01.567" Title="Are copied Flashback cards cast from the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-01-04T17:18:52.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2013-01-03T21:40:43.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A copy of a spell isn't cast. Therefore, the &quot;if Increasing Devotion was cast from a graveyard&quot; clause won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; &lt;strong&gt;a copy of a spell isn't cast&lt;/strong&gt; and a copy of an activated ability isn't activated. A copy of a spell or ability copies both the characteristics of the spell or ability and all decisions made for it, including modes, targets, the value of X, and additional or alternative costs. (See rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells.&quot;) Choices that are normally made on resolution are not copied. If an effect of the copy refers to objects used to pay its costs, it uses the objects used to pay the costs of the original spell or ability. A copy of a spell is owned by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell or ability is controlled by the player under whose control it was put on the stack. A copy of a spell is itself a spell, even though it has no spell card associated with it. A copy of an ability is itself an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-01-03T22:06:58.203" LastActivityDate="2013-01-03T22:06:58.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9681" CreationDate="2013-01-03T23:29:04.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &amp;quot;Copy&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; are two different Keyword Actions, and neither is defined in terms of the other. If a spell was copied, it wasn't cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; a copy of a spell isn’t cast and a copy of an activated ability isn’t activated. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some abilities (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Isochron%20Scepter&quot;&gt;Isochron Scepter&lt;/a&gt;'s) allow you to cast copies of cards, but that's not the case here since you're talking about a spell that was cast using flashback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T00:18:01.567" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T00:18:01.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9671" CreationDate="2013-01-04T01:07:49.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only thing I've been able to find refers to the game as TenPair&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logicgamesonline.com/tenpair/&quot;&gt;http://www.logicgamesonline.com/tenpair/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T01:07:49.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-04T02:44:30.560" Score="6" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you score the Mayor in an unfinished city at the end of a game of Carcassonne?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3722" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-04T03:14:26.013" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T03:14:26.013" Title="How do you score the Mayor in an unfinished city?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9685" CreationDate="2013-01-04T03:08:34.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mayor's ability allows him to count as more than one follower. So at the end of the game, an unfinished city is scored as normal - compare the Mayor's effective follower number with that of any other player present in the city. The player(s) with the most followers each score one point per city tile, and one point for each pennant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only special case is that if the city has no pennants, then the Mayor doesn't count as a follower, and can't score anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://upsilon.cc/%7Ezack/teaching/1011/gla/carcassonne/abbey-mayor.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;relevant rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On his turn, a player may place his mayor instead of a follower. He&#xA;may only place his mayor in a city, which has no knight or follower.&#xA;The usual follower placing rules apply. When a city is scored, the&#xA;mayor counts for as many followers as there are pennants in the city. For example, if the city has 3 pennants,&#xA;the mayor counts as 3 followers. If the city has no pennants, the mayor counts as no followers. A normal follower counts as 1 follower. The large follower from Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals counts as 2 followers. The value of the city is not changed by the presence of a mayor. After scoring the city, the player takes his mayor back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T03:08:34.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9688" CreationDate="2013-01-04T04:17:01.193" Score="18" ViewCount="27087" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a configuration of Blokus pieces where all pieces of one colour touch only at the corners and not the edges, so that the pieces could actually appear that way in a Blokus game, with each player ending up with a score of 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solutions for both the four-player and two-player game would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2020-12-05T04:20:05.460" Title="Is there a valid Blokus configuration where all the pieces are on the board?" Tags="|blokus|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9687" CreationDate="2013-01-04T04:36:34.873" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;After poking around a while for information on the scoring system, I found this site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://puzzlesland.com/blokus/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://puzzlesland.com/blokus/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jFtvn.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jFtvn.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains an &quot;optimal configuration&quot; as I asked for in the original question, plus various other hypothetical configurations that were figured out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastEditorUserId="7985" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T13:44:10.613" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T13:44:10.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2013-01-04T06:05:48.347" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to say the same thing as the other answers, but more focused on your specific case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been said elsewhere, here's what happens during combat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Begin combat step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players get to play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The attacking player chooses which creatures are attacking. Once the choices are made, they are locked in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players get to play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blockers step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The defending player chooses which creatures are blocking. Once the choices are made, they are locked in; in particular, if you choose not to block a creature, you can't later go back and block it .&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players get to play spells and abilities. This is where your infect-playing opponent will play his pump spells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players get to play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of combat step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players get to play spells and abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say &quot;Both players get to play spells and abilities,&quot; that's code for &quot;each player gets priority&quot; and all that other stuff that ghoppe explained. I'm not going to go into that., except to reiterate that after he plays a spell, you will also get a chance to play spells, and vice versa. The game doesn't move on to the next step until both of you decline to play anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the bottom line is that yes, your opponent can play spells to pump up his creature after you block or decline to block. And you can play spells like Holy Day to prevent the damage those creatures would do, or whatever other spells you want to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you may be thinking that this is kind of unfair, because he can attack with a small creature, which you don't block because it doesn't seem threatening, and then he can pump it up to instantly kill you. But it's not. Once you see your opponent pull this trick once, you know about it, and next time, you can block his creature, even if it's small, because you know that if you don't ,he will be able to pump it up  and kill you. Consider this your introduction to the &lt;em&gt;strategy&lt;/em&gt; of Magic: it's about learning to anticipate what your opponent &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; play before he does it. You can do this based on what you know to be in his deck, how much mana he has available, how many cards he has in hand, and any other information that might be relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, playing against an infect deck is one of the easier matchups to play, strategically speaking, because all you have to do is block everything whenever your opponent might be able to play a pump spell. Remember that infect creatures are small for their cost, so when you block, either your blocker will kill the infect creature, or your opponent will have to use a pump spell to save it.  After 3 or 4 blocks, your opponent will either be out of pump spells (in which case his creatures aren't threatening anymore) or out of creatures (in which case the pump spells are useless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T06:05:48.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9691" CreationDate="2013-01-04T08:42:02.123" Score="5" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love to play Village Idiot (I'm sure it goes by other names, but I don't know them), and I am wanting to play games similar to it, mainly shorter games.  &lt;strong&gt;Is there a definitive category or name that Village Idiot falls under&lt;/strong&gt;, which would help me in my search for similar games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the rules to the version of the game I play: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/310871&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.answerbag.com/q_view/310871&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3724" LastEditorUserId="3724" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T08:02:54.097" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T08:02:54.097" Title="What type of game is Village idiot?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9690" CreationDate="2013-01-04T15:47:58.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules I have seen, Village Idiot is one of a handful of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/climbing/asshole.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;climbing card games&lt;/a&gt;. The most notable of these are The Great Dalmuti/Dilbert Corporate Shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T15:47:58.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6455" CreationDate="2013-01-04T17:14:20.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the stage 2 &lt;em&gt;Family Growth&lt;/em&gt; I'd agree with you somewhat. If you prepare for family growth to come in Round 5 and no one else does, you won't have to waste moves to get &lt;em&gt;Starting Player&lt;/em&gt;. If it doesn't show in Round 5, grab the &lt;em&gt;wood&lt;/em&gt; or the &lt;em&gt;reed&lt;/em&gt; to delay room building for your opponents. You still get compensation for being prepared but of course you would have been better off if that &lt;em&gt;FG&lt;/em&gt; had come in Round 5. &lt;em&gt;(Also do not focus too much on getting FG. I always laugh inside when my opponents grab Starting Player in Round 4 hoping for FG in Round 5, and then they take SP again hoping for it in Round 6. All this without the ability to play a minor improvement when taking SP and certainly no minors left when FG comes.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think is worse about Stage 2 is that you never know when &lt;em&gt;Renovation&lt;/em&gt; comes. Even though I can find awesome card combinations for early renovation I never want to take the risk as it would be horrible if it comes in Round 7. I rather discard the cards and grab new ones instead (I usually play with Mulligan).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've previously proposed to my opponents that we fix the &lt;em&gt;Stone&lt;/em&gt; action in Stage 2 to Round 5 and then &lt;em&gt;FG&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Renovation&lt;/em&gt; come in Round 6-7 (random). This way Renovation strategies are more viable and the players not getting the first Family Growth likely gets good compensation in the form of 2-3 stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Stage 5 &lt;em&gt;Family Growth even without&lt;/em&gt; room I don't agree that it is too random. You should always have a grain or vegetable ready if the &lt;em&gt;Plow and Sow&lt;/em&gt; comes up instead. And don't be too disappointed, that too is at least a 3 point action that probably gives you food, compared to FG that gives 3p and costs you food (the extra action which you may have to spend getting that extra food). There's also often 2 &lt;em&gt;Cattle&lt;/em&gt; available at this point which is also worth at least 3 points (4 if you afford to breed it twice). Nowadays if I in Round 13 or 14 get to choose between &lt;em&gt;FG without room&lt;/em&gt; and Plow and Sow I often choose &lt;em&gt;Plow and Sow&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;: Don't overvalue Family Growth. If you make &lt;em&gt;efficient actions&lt;/em&gt; like taking 6 wood, 3 Stone, 2 Cattle it doesn't really matter if you delay your FG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastActivityDate="2013-01-04T17:14:20.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-06T03:29:38.613" Score="8" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am (co)designing a pickup-and-deliver strategy game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extensive playtesting has revealed what I believe to be a slightly broken aspect of the endgame (basically, there comes a point when everyone can visualize the rest of the game, and there's nothing to be done to change the outcome/winner). The first 45 minutes of the game play smoothly and are quite enjoyable; it's only the last couple minutes that get stale when the end is in sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that &quot;KC&quot; will likely be submitted to an established publisher - and expecting their developers to take over -  we have only taken the theme, artwork, and rulebook so far. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Will a publisher accept games that have slightly broken aspects to them, or is the designer responsible for having a mechanically polished game at the start of the submission process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;em&gt;Settlers&lt;/em&gt;, but without development cards (and also without longest road, as those points are temporary). This hypothetical game would be &quot;broken&quot; in the same way that mine is - not to mention missing out on what is a great aspect of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There would be no hidden information. A king would rise, and &lt;em&gt;at some point&lt;/em&gt; everyone would be able to see the same writing on the wall: if something &lt;strong&gt;extremely&lt;/strong&gt; unlucky doesn't happen, the final victory position of each player will remain unchanged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in terms of this hypothetical &lt;em&gt;Setllers&lt;/em&gt; game, my original question might be reworded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have any games been submitted to publishers with noticeable problems that were subsequently fixed by the developer's addition of a new mechanic? (If so, what are they, and who are the publishers?!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit 2:&lt;/strong&gt; I believe the &lt;strong&gt;solution&lt;/strong&gt; to lie in an alternative scoring mechanism that introduces hidden information and (more) variance/randomness. Rather than advancing a certain number on the VP track for completing certain tasks, basically players will take a tile corresponding to the task they completed. The tiles will have various VP's on them with a certain distribution (think &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54043/jaipur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jaipur&lt;/a&gt; bonus tiles). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A simple example: Ticket to Ride. In TtR, you immediately score 15/10/7 etc. for claiming routes of length 6/5/4. If, instead of scoring this immediately, players took tiles from the 6/5/4 &quot;stack&quot; upon completion of corresponding routes, this would be like my game. The tiles for a &quot;6&quot; route would probably range from 14-17 VP each, &quot;5&quot;s would range from 9-11, etc.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger issue remains (for future games of mine and of others): &lt;em&gt;how much should the designer do before submitting to a publisher?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T18:03:23.923" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T18:03:23.923" Title="Will a developer fix a (small) broken mechanic, or should I fix it before the submission process begins?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9693" CreationDate="2013-01-06T06:04:13.253" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should fix it before submitting the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The developer will have plenty of work to do anyway, from working on issues you're not even aware of, to tweaking factors to bring the game closer into line with the publisher's target audience. The better your game is before you submit it, the more likely that first play will be fun enough to make the publisher take interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T06:04:13.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6269" CreationDate="2013-01-06T12:38:14.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly situations where it's worth releasing the &lt;em&gt;sheeps&lt;/em&gt;, especially in a 2-player game. I would even argue that you can never let your opponent get 8 food that early. If I take the &lt;em&gt;sheep&lt;/em&gt; and release all but one, sure it does me no good now, but later it nets me 2 food or 2 points. That forces you to make at least one bad move on for example &lt;em&gt;Day Labourer&lt;/em&gt;, and probably have to spend one or two moves in Stage 2 getting food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many 3-player games I've seen a huge advantage going to the player who gets the first sheeps, and in that case it's more of a loss for me to spend that move since the third player is the only one that benefits from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3725" LastActivityDate="2013-01-06T12:38:14.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-06T17:34:07.760" Score="9" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;We started some time ago a Descent campaign on Sea of Blood, but ran across some heavy problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently we are stuck on a battle with a lieutenant of the evil lord on a sea chain siege, trying to stop it. The problems are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apparently the ship can't turn and can only go forward, with a bit of steering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rocks sink the ship oneshot, and are hardly avoidable right at the beginning on the battle map we got (Wild Vortex)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lieutenant (Siren) can move freely 10 spaces in the water and go behind the ship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of this the players are forced to swim ti go hit the siren, but they don't have Swim and the current is moving them in the opposite direction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cannon is also useless here because of distance and accuracy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What could we do to tweak this? Did we miss some rules? Is the game supposed to be &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; hard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Feel free to correct me and suggest anything related with SoB player/game master balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2504" LastEditorUserId="2504" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T13:26:47.940" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T15:39:19.310" Title="Sea of Blood seems broken, what did we miss?" Tags="|descent|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9713" CreationDate="2013-01-06T23:26:39.763" Score="30" ViewCount="13890" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone who has played a wide variety of games knows that some games are almost purely skill (i.e. Chess, Go), while others are 100 % luck (ie. Candyland, card game of War). However, most games are in between. I would find it helpful as a game buyer if there were an objective measure indicating how much luck is involved in a game, to include as one of several criteria when deciding which kinds of games I'd like to buy and spend time learning. I personally prefer games where luck/probability plays a role, yet deliberate practice increases skill over time (i.e. card game of Bridge). But obviously other people will have different preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've observed many debates about the amount of luck and skill in certain games and I sometimes use information gleaned form these informal debates to help me decide whether to purchase a game. Very few of these debates cite objective measures to indicate how much luck or skill is involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/146368/frequently-misunderstood-luck-games-with-lots-of-s&quot;&gt;BGG luck/skill thread I started&lt;/a&gt;, one person did cite &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/305020/on-the-application-of-basic-tactical-decision-maki&quot;&gt;an attempt to objectively measure whether skill exists in the game Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what measures exist and how useful are they? Or is there some persuasive mathematics to suggest that useful measures (of how much luck is in a game) are not possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T04:32:40.103" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T12:55:22.937" Title="How to Measure Luck vs Skill in Games?" Tags="|luck|skill|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T03:21:00.213" Score="1" ViewCount="43" Body="&lt;p&gt;In core worlds, there are several ways to give bonus ground strength to Infantry. For example there is a Cyborg who gives +1 Ground strength to each Infantry that attacks with him.&#xA;If I use my Medi-bot to save my now 2 strength grunt, how long does that +1 strength last? Until the end of the invasion? Until the end of the round? End of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T05:11:14.000" Title="How long does a bonus last?" Tags="|core-worlds|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9699" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-01-07T03:22:08.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Core Worlds is a space themed Deck Building and Drafting game that takes place over 10 rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T04:59:55.863" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T04:59:55.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9700" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-01-07T03:22:08.343" Score="0" Body="Core Worlds is a space themed Deck Building game." OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T05:00:01.760" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T05:00:01.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9698" CreationDate="2013-01-07T04:18:50.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Till the end of the current invasion.&lt;/strong&gt; Cyborg reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During an invasion involving the Cyborg, you may spend 1 Energy to add +1 Ground Strength &lt;strong&gt;to every Infantry Unit in that invasion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quixoticgames.com/coreworlds/coreworlds_official_rulebook4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; defines an Invasion as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Invasion: In order to add new worlds to his Empire, a player must launch Invasions. A player performs an Invasion &lt;strong&gt;by discarding enough cards from his Warzone&lt;/strong&gt; to match the Fleet Strength and Ground Strength of the World he is invading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the saved Ground Unit will only get the +1 bonus during the current invasion (cyborg's rules text). The Med-bot can save the troop from being discarded, but the bonus ends immediately after the current Invasion that Cyborg is participating in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T05:11:14.000" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T05:11:14.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9704" CreationDate="2013-01-07T18:28:02.510" Score="9" ViewCount="7783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well since the new set is available I was wondering the combo between &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nivmagus%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Nivmagus Elemental&lt;/a&gt; and cipher cards&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's assume that Nivmagus is on the field then I cast a cipher spell from my hand can I:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat the spell and mount it on Nivmagus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat the cipher spell on each attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also is it possible to have multiple of the same cipher spells on a target creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The definition is assumed to be &amp;quot;You may exile this spell card encoded on a creature you control. Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of the encoded card without paying its mana cost.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T18:48:16.827" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T04:06:03.920" Title="Nivmagus and cipher card rulings" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9702" CreationDate="2013-01-07T18:41:36.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot have Nivmagus &quot;eat&quot; the spell and still cipher it on Nivmagus. Ciphering is part of the spell's effect, and if the spell is countered or exiled before resolution, then none of its effects occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, however, encode the cipher spell on any creature and have the Nivmagus Elemental exile the copies that are cast. Note that this will happen &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; combat damage, so unless the ciphered creature has first strike, the +1/+1 counters will not count towards the Elemental's damage for that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, there is no limit to the number or identities of cipher cards that can be encoded on a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T18:41:36.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9702" CreationDate="2013-01-07T18:46:21.610" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you eat a spell with Nivmagus, it won't resolve, so you don't perform any of its spell abilities, so you don't perform its cipher ability. You'll get the +1/+1 counters, but that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's say you did let a cipher spell resolve, and you did attach it a creature. Since a copy of a spell is a spell, you can eat the copies created by cipher. But again, the spell won't resolve if you do. You'll get the +1/+1 counters, but that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can't encode the copies created by cipher because you can only encode spell &lt;em&gt;cards&lt;/em&gt; with cipher, so eating the spell copies is not as expensive as eating the original. It actually sounds like a good use of cipher to me :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the spell triggers after damage is dealt, so the +1/+1 counters it gets will only help it the next combat (except possibly if it has first strike or double strike).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, multiple spells can be encoded on a single creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-07T21:57:35.173" LastActivityDate="2013-01-07T21:57:35.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2013-01-07T20:08:04.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not have a full answer to this question but I have the beginnings of an answer, which I hope is supplanted by a better one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer assumes that game rules are strictly followed, with no cheating or imperfect components. (In other words, no loaded dice, or imperfect dice whose imperfections can be observed after many thousands of rolls, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question can be broken down into several simpler questions. The easiest is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q1: Is there a way to know for certain that a game has zero skill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: Yes. Games with zero choice such as Candyland or the card game of War have no choices. If you can't make a choice, it is impossible to apply skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q2: Is there a way to test whether a game with choices has non-zero&#xA;  skill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: Yes, with caveats. As cited in the question, the game Fluxx has numerous random elements but also choices. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/305020/on-the-application-of-basic-tactical-decision-maki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A study proved skill exists in the game of Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; by playing 200 games where one opponent's actions were random, while the other followed a small set of pre-defined tactics. One can imagine a similar methodology applied using computer simulation to any game which is guaranteed to terminate in a reasonable amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all this can do is prove whether skill exists in a game. It cannot prove that skill does not exist, because if a tested set of tactics is poor, then it may appear that the particular set of tactics used does not produce a statistically significant advantage over random behavior. For most games it will be impossible to test every possible set of tactics, so it is therefore impossible to prove using this method that no skill exists in a game that has choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exists a class of games where behaving randomly in some or all situations confers an advantage (i.e. Rock Paper Scissors). So testing whether skill exists should not just be against a purely random opponent, but also an opponent who automatically follows one simple rule (i.e. always chooses Rock in Rock Paper Scissors, or always follows the identical priority pattern when choosing cards in Fluxx). Then the second opponent can be programmed to detect patterns in the first opponent and react the detected patterns. If that confers an advantage, then skill exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a trivial subset of games that can be mathematically proven to have no skill: games with choices where the choices are meaningless. For example, imagine a game whose board design is such that the first move is chosen (like which of the 1st 10 spaces to start on for a Candyland-like board), but every choice leads to exactly the same result - a victory (via different paths, depending on the choice). It would be easy to mathematically prove this game has no skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q3: Is there a way to test whether a game has no luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, with caveats. If you can program a computer so that it never loses (it gets to choose whether to go first or last to avoid the first/last issue encountered in games like Nim), then the game has no luck. However, the converse is not true. Just because a computer program has not yet been found that will always win a game, does not prove the game has luck - it could be that the program has not yet been discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There exist classes of games where it is clear there is no luck by simple reasoning. One such class is games with no hidden information and no randomization mechanisms, such as Chess or Go. There may be other such classes as well, though I'm not clear as to whether games with hidden information such as Stratego can be considered to have no luck, because there is the luck of which types of information get revealed in which order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've covered the very easiest edge cases and not tackled the much more difficult question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q4: For any pair of games, both of which (provably) have some luck and some&#xA;  skill, is there a testing methodology which will demonstrate which&#xA;  requires more skill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have a complete answer for this much more difficult question. I do not know whether it is even possible to answer, or whether there is academic literature on the subject. But I do have the beginnings of an idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many lines of code does it take to program a computer to never lose? By this metric, Chess requires vastly more skill than Tic Tac Toe - which obviously matches intuition. This has issues such as the relative length of computer programs varying with the computer language chosen, and sequential vs parallel computing architectures (very relevant to pattern matching games like Chess or Go). But if this idea were further refined, it might actually lead to something, even if just a complexity classification system along the lines of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cellular_automaton#Classification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stephen Wolfram's work on complexity in cellular automata&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a tough question, and perhaps it won't be answered fully for hundreds of years, if ever. But if there's a better answer than this one, I'd love to see it. And I welcome feedback on how this answer can be improved, if there is anything faulty about the logic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T18:28:33.903" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T18:28:33.903" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-07T21:13:06.053" Score="12" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is in some ways a followup to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9631/is-the-complex-deck-in-agricola-strictly-better&quot;&gt;Is the Complex deck in Agricola strictly better?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Agricola, are there many synergies between cards &lt;em&gt;across decks&lt;/em&gt;, or do cards which work towards a certain theme tend to be grouped into the same deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I kind of like the idea of mixing the E, I, K (and, when FedEx arrives, G) decks, but does doing so reduce the chance of getting strong combos? If so, would it be better to increase the cards drawn (but still discard or draft down to 7) when combining decks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to the first answer received: I can see that a larger deck reduces the risk of &quot;negative synergy&quot;, where some cards are specifically meant to balance other powerful ones by the possibility that an opponent has that card. (Chief and Chief's Daughter, for example.) In fact, that's obviously the case with any card which mentions a &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; other card, so, what if we set those cards aside and just consider the rest? Is there a greater or worse chance of getting a set of cards which happens to work together nicely without explicitly saying so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T15:48:01.087" Title="Does mixing decks in Agricola reduce the chance of synergies?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2013-01-08T00:58:07.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, there is a quite elusive difference between &lt;em&gt;chance&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;luck&lt;/em&gt;, but it is worth noticing before analysing either concept deeper.  Any non-deterministic event during the game is necessarily a chance component; but its effect on a given game situation may be exactly neutral (either in practical terms in a unique situation, or in some general, mathematically qualified meaning).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the initial setup in Dominion, where kingdom cards are randomly chosen (and made available to all players), is a major chance event that entirely changes the overall course of game; but the luck effects can be almost as small as the mental differences between the players can ever be.  This is because each player gets nearly the same opportunities as everyone else - regardless of what they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In games with mixed luck + skill factors, there is a tight interaction between the two.  The skill factor includes knowing the statistical distributions within the chance factor.  There may exist critical but non-obvious breakpoints between distinct strategies, based on analysis or experience, triggered by observable game events.  Conversely, decisions taken by the player can subsequently affect the degree of chance (make the game more random or less random), as well as the expected outcome (bad luck versus good luck).  This does not really mean that more skill could translate to more luck, but it should warn against many naive imperfect metrics of luck versus skill based on what &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; like magical luck or enormous chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to these obvious &quot;combinatorial modelling&quot; and &quot;statistical modelling&quot; aspects of skill, there are also others.  Strategic (high level models), psychological (basically a statistical model of the opponent's decision making), memory and so on.  Each of these components assigns a &lt;em&gt;difficulty&lt;/em&gt; (a learning curve) to every game, and that is a key obstacle to defining skill vs. luck in a player independent way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see this, consider Nim (or chess).  Either you are bright enough to see the full winning (or non-losing) strategy or you aren't.  If you are, the game reduces to a pure game of chance, namely the drawing of who goes first - and maybe some amount of psychology if your partner is still somewhere on the learning curve.  If you are not, you are playing a pure game of skill, struggling to be the first player to notice a winning path for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reasoning applies to the other components of skill as well.  Some board games are actually employing quite obscure skills, including &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dixit_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;imagination&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crokinole&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dexterity&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9499/telling-lies&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;deception&lt;/a&gt;, and the game experience can be drammatically different based on where on the learning curve, or natural disposition with regard to that respective skill the player group happens to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you cannot really define a rigorous methodology and end up with a single number usable with all sorts of player profiles, and with all skill levels.  You need to know your &quot;market&quot; as an assessor, and to know your own player group as a consumer when evaluating a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, knowing the players perfectly, games of skill are easy to detect.  You know how.  Have a relative newcomer play against a relative expert (within your expected group).  What's the percentage of games that the expert will win?  This metric however makes slow games appear as comparatively luck based.  There is not enough &quot;tries&quot; to even out the factors that do tend to even out, including chance. So you can improve this metric by playing multiple rounds for a defined typical amount of time and looking at the probability that the expert will emerge with the better score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there is no universal definition of an expert.  It means different skills for different games; and different skill levels for different player groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a side note, many countries attempt to define &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_of_skill&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;games of skill&lt;/a&gt; and games of chance for legal purposes, that is, to apply different public regulations to these broad groups of games.  In this context, no accurate definition or methodology is ever employed, which is telling.  Only a few games most often played in commercial contexts ever really get classified, and that classification is usually based on cultural perceptions and on business models.  Example again.  If you are really successful in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blackjack&lt;/a&gt; due to your memory skill, then the business model (rather than the game structure itself) implies that you are not welcome in commercial establishments where the game is played.  Blackjack is &lt;em&gt;culturally expected&lt;/em&gt; to be a game of chance.  You will experience the &lt;em&gt;opposite expectations&lt;/em&gt; in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contract_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bridge&lt;/a&gt; club or in a public bridge tournament, despite that the same card sets are used in both games, and superficially you control the deals themselves even less in case of bridge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3555" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T00:58:07.440" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2013-01-08T08:01:23.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An objective measure for Luck doesn't exist, so no such comparison can be made.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is luck, in game terms? One definition is, the chance that you can win or lose a game, due to random chance and not due to decisions that you or your opponent made. A game of 100% pure luck, cannot have any decisions that you or your opponent make have any impact on who wins (i.e. You should be just as likely to win/lose by making random moves). A game of 100% pure skill, cannot have the result of who wins or loses determined by anything other than decisions that you or your opponent make, (i.e. Your decisions should cause you to win/lose more often than random moves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luck can be equated with randomness. An objective measure of luck would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The difference between how often you win a game compared to how often a random player would win a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a completely objective, it isn't very useful. Some examples are in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A very simple game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game consists of a shuffled deck of 3 cards labeled 1, 2, and 3. The game is played over two rounds, with the deck shuffled between rounds. Each player chooses a number between 1-3, then the top card of the deck is revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the card is &gt;= to the highest guesses: the player with the highest guess scores the other players guess (if both are the highest, both score)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the card is &amp;lt; one player's guess: the other player scores the high guess.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the card is &amp;lt; both player's guesses: neither player scores.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Random Play&lt;/strong&gt;: There are 27 possible outcomes in this game each round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          ¦(1,1)¦(1,2)¦(1,3)¦(2,1)¦(2,2)¦(2,3)¦(3,1)¦(3,2)¦(3,3)¦Guess (Player1,Player2)&#xA;          +-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+ &#xA;      R(1)¦ 1,1 ¦ 2,0 ¦ 3,0 ¦ 0,2 ¦ 0,0 ¦ 0,0 ¦ 0,3 ¦ 0,0 ¦ 0,0 &#xA;      R(2)¦ 1,1 ¦ 0,1 ¦ 3,0 ¦ 1,0 ¦ 2,2 ¦ 3,0 ¦ 0,3 ¦ 0,3 ¦ 0,0 &#xA;      R(3)¦ 1,1 ¦ 0,1 ¦ 0,1 ¦ 1,0 ¦ 2,2 ¦ 0,2 ¦ 1,0 ¦ 2,0 ¦ 3,3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An expert player will never choose 3 for the first round. Doing so would result in their opponent scoring 3 points 33.3% of the time (ensuring a loss), drawing 4/9ths of the time, and only gaining points in 2/9 of the outcomes. An expert will never choose 3. If we compare a random player to an expert:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rnd1: E1,R1 = 3/9 Win, 2/9 Lose, 4/9 Draw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rnd1: E1,R2 = 5/9 Win, 4/9 Lose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rnd1: E1,R3 = 5/9 Win, 4/9 Lose&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rnd1: E2,R1 = 14/27 Win +  6/27 Lose, 7/27 Draw&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rnd1: E2,R2 = 3/9 Win, 2/9 Lose, 4/9 Draw &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rnd1: E2,R3 = 14/27 Win, 8/27 Lose, 5/27 Draw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expert player will open with &lt;strong&gt;Choose 2&lt;/strong&gt;, and will win nearly twice as often as the random player. So, we will give this game a score of 60% skill (didn't work out the exact math for how often a random player draws, something close to 16%). So let us change the game. Instead of 3 cards, we will have 10 cards from 1-10. Now the random player has more bad choices. Instead of just 1/3rd of the choices being bad, now 4/10ths are bad. Is the game anymore skill based? An expert player will improve their win percentage against a random player, but what does that really mean? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can make other rather trivial changes to the game like, not shuffling between rounds or removing several cards face-up from the shuffled deck (10-card version) that would increase an expert players win percentage versus a random player. These objective measures just don't have any meaningful value when comparing these trivial guessing games. If you take the fact that when trying to objectively measure the luck in these simple games, you can see the trouble of trying to apply these measurements to games with wildly variant forms of randomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T08:21:16.437" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T08:21:16.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9706" CreationDate="2013-01-08T10:58:54.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go with my gut response here (again) and say that mixing the decks does dilute the game, but not so much by &quot;reducing the chance of getting strong combos&quot;... more by &lt;em&gt;increasing&lt;/em&gt; the chance of being dealt a powerful hand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key deck to examine here is the I-deck.  The other two (core set) decks are ostensibly just two piles of assorted cards, one of which contains some allegedly more difficult concepts than the other.  The Interactive Deck though is specifically designed for, well, interactivity.  If you play with just the I-deck the cards in your hand are more likely to interact with the cards in your opponents' hands than if you just mix everything together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's consider the Wood, Clay and Stone Paths in the I-deck.  The Wood Path is a superb card in isolation, giving you 2 Victory Points for the low, low cost of 1 Wood.  And if you've mixed all the decks together into one mega-deck, chances are you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; consider it in isolation.  The chance that someone has the Clay Path, or the difficult-to-play Stone Path, is probably small enough to discount. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas if you're playing just the I-deck, chances are high that someone else &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have the Clay Path, which makes the Wood Path a much less attractive proposition.  If you use it early as part of a starting player grab, you run the serious risk that someone will take it upon themselves to out-Path you later in the game.  Which forces you to think very hard about the best time to use your Wood Path - as late in the game as possible is probably good.  Which makes the Wood Path a much more interesting card, but obviously a less powerful one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T10:58:54.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9714" CreationDate="2013-01-08T17:56:20.740" Score="4" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a city with a fortress but no units inside it, and my opponent moves armies into that city, does my opponent have to defeat the fortress to win?  In other words, do fortresses behave like a unit during battle?  Can they take a hit and be removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does having a settler in the city (but still no army units) change the situation at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T08:44:19.137" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T17:14:25.557" Title="Does a fortress count as a unit when defending a city?" Tags="|clash-of-cultures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6352" CreationDate="2013-01-08T20:26:07.030" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're talking about how it affects the game not how it affects the company's money (profit/loss). Furthermore we're talking about how it affects gameplay not how it affects excitement of opening booster packs etc/snob appeal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;firstly let's define the attributes of common cards vs mythic cards (and all in between on that scale). common cards are simply less powerfull cards than the rares. common cards aren't less complex than mythic cards. that's just untrue. case example is the 8 mana rare/mythic rare big monster that just has high power and 2/3 abilities and nothing more. common cards tend to be just purely less effective versions of the rare. eg they worse mana cost to p/t ratios, higher mana cost for their abilities or take off less damage etc. basically putting 'power' on a number scale common cards are X powerfull, uncommon X+1, rare X+2 etc or something roughly like that. the only difference in how the good the cards are. sometimes, rarely, in a deck even a common card will be a good card in your deck - but generally most of your cards won't be commmon/uncommon. most good decks are over 100£. and so on top of tournament prices, if you change your deck twice in a year that's like buying ps3 each year. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so now that we know the rarity of cards is simply an indicator of the worth of the card in actual gameplay (ie how powerfull it is). and we know that price is proportional to the power of cards. then all that means is they're creating a meta game where the more wealth you have in real life the more power during gameplay. so if you work out and become good with computers and earn a lot of money you're now better off when building a deck in magic and thus during gameplay so basically being good at computers (or any other thing people pay you a lot of money for) = being good at magic. that's just so wrong... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if all cards were the same price however then it wouldn't work as a business etc. common cards wouldn't be bought and seeing as they cost the same to print manufacture etc it would be pure loss so that means common cards would go out and this would be bad for the game as it would mean there are less cards for peopl to tinker their decks with/general come across ideas and having many formats is fun anyway ie pure commons etc. so then they'd have to stop making as many cards per year as theirs always going to a be a scale of good cards to bad cards simply because if a card is better than another in that set then no matter how 'good' the card is it's now fundamentally as it's worse than another. this means they'd up the price of all cards. persides it's so set up anyway the mtg is with colour categories and then themes each year etc - they know what cards are good and what's filler. whereas in yugioh there's just cards that will always be around, that are great in most decks like MST, monster reborn etc. any&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3738" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T20:44:39.273" LastActivityDate="2013-01-08T20:44:39.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10804" CreationDate="2013-01-08T21:33:33.517" Score="4" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Nuns on the Run&lt;/em&gt;, when a novice has been caught by one of the guards, she must walk the shortest route back to her cell so long as the abbess or prioress can still see her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, must the novice complete her 'caught' movement honestly even if it takes her out of sight, or can the novice jink to the side as soon as there's a door between her and the guards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Ann Marie is caught two spaces from the south door to the chapel.  Her first two moves have to be south, but do her last one or two also have to be south, or can she turn and head into the garden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-08T22:04:09.407" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T21:08:02.457" Title="Must a caught novice walk back to her cell even when passing out of sight?" Tags="|nuns-on-the-run|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2013-01-08T22:20:10.067" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elo_rating_system&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elo Rating System&lt;/a&gt; used to measure the relative skill of Chess players. This is essentially an equation that takes a series of wins and losses and produces a number that can be used to predict the chances of one player winning a game against another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the inputs to the equation is a &quot;distribution&quot; that describes how much a difference in skill changes your odds of winning. This part is tweakable - they started with a normal distribution, but some groups have switched to a logistic distribution because they've found it to be more accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we had a fully deterministic game like &quot;Which player weighs more?&quot;, the Elo rating would just be your current weight (or some deterministic mapping thereof), and the distribution parameter would be the Heaviside function (0 if less than 0, 1 if greater than 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we modify that game a bit to make a game like &quot;Roll a D6, add that to your weight, and see who has the highest number&quot;, the Elo ratings for everyone would still be the same, but the distribution function would have to change so that the behavior from -6 to +6 was a stepwise thing based on the distribution of die rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we had a zero-skill game like War, everyone would have the same Elo rating (and the distribution function wouldn't matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if we have a two-player game that produces win/loss results, and a set of players, we can force the players to play games against each other and establish Elo ratings for every player, using some distribution function (maybe we start with a normal distribution like chess did). Eventually we'd be able to look at the results of all the games and determine that a logistic distribution (or a log-normal distribution, or some other distribution) did a better job of predicting the results than a normal distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape of that distribution - how 'wide' it is, how it tapers near the ends, how steep it is in the center, and so on, is the answer to your question. Of course, this takes a huge amount of effort to measure, but it's theoretically possible to determine that curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addendum: Here are some distribution curves (courtesy of Wolfram Alpha). Apologies that these don't have 100% consistent X/Y axes, but hopefully you get the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the 'normal' distribution (rather, its CDF). For example, using the yellow line, we'd expect a player with a skill of &quot;+2&quot; to win about 80% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJKu3.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Normal Distribution&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The logistic distribution is very similar, but has heavier tails (this is really subtle!). The X-axis here is different (why, Alpha?); again using the yellow line we'd expect a player with skill &quot;+50&quot; to win about 90% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vrwpj.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Logistic Distribution&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with both the logistic and normal distributions, there is a parameter to tweak how 'wide' the spread is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heaviside:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WQ4o6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Heaviside&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepwise (using the &quot;weight + d6&quot; example, this should be transposed up and flatten out at the left/right extremes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0X296.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Stepwise&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastEditorUserId="3590" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T16:41:40.070" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T16:41:40.070" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9710" CreationDate="2013-01-08T23:23:37.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your Fortress does not act as a unit, and the foriegn unit does not need to defeat the Fortress. They only must survive the first round combat. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/clashofcultures/EN-Clash-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for Fortress (page 6) tell you, &amp;quot;During the first combat roll of a battle: +1 die for combat and Cancel one hit.&amp;quot; So, your Fortress allows you to roll a single die, and if that defeats the foreign Army unit, combat ends with no winner or loser. If not, the city is conquered and any Settlers are defeated. (remaining rules page 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Land Combat&lt;/strong&gt; - Battles typically occur during a &amp;quot;Move&amp;quot; action when an Army moves into a space with one or more foreign umits &lt;strong&gt;or a foreign city&lt;/strong&gt; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combat Roll and Combat Value&lt;/strong&gt; - Battles are resolved through combat rounds. [...] If one side loses all his units, he has lost the battle. If both sides lose all their units, combat ends with no winner or loser. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers in Combat&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] If Settlers end up in a space alone with a foreign Army unit, a battle occurs in which any Settlers are defeated automatically (no cards are played or dice rolled). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T05:00:26.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-09T07:22:16.200" Score="6" ViewCount="1468" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9697/how-to-measure-luck-vs-skill-in-games&quot;&gt;recent question&lt;/a&gt;, a link was posted to a BGG member that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/305020/on-the-application-of-basic-tactical-decision-maki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;attempted to objectively measure whether skill exists in the game Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;. This wasn't published in a peer reviewed journal, but was just a small project by a dedicated Fluxx fan. This got me thinking about the methodology used to determine if Fluxx should be considered a game of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;200 games were played, resulting in a 71%-29% split. Is this significant? (What would a statistical analysis tell us the Confidence Interval (CI) was for 200 games, Chi^2 analysis, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This game was played only 2-players. Would a 3-player+ game result in similar two times more likely for a thinking player to win?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This &lt;strong&gt;Basic Player&lt;/strong&gt; still made random plays, unless taking those actions would immediately win them the game (&lt;strong&gt;example&lt;/strong&gt; if the standard rules, Draw 1 and Play 1, a basic player would not play one of the cards Keeper:Dog, Keeper:Tree, and the Goal:Walk the Dog even if all of them were in their hand, because they wouldn't win immediately.) Are the results of this experiment similar to the results you would have from a game with no luck, but similar 2-card win goals?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand on the last point, imagine a game where each player had access to all of the cards in the Fluxx, and was allowed to &quot;draw&quot; the card of their choosing. Would a &lt;strong&gt;Basic Player&lt;/strong&gt; in this game of no luck have a similar win percentage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T15:12:13.113" Title="Is Fluxx a game of skill or luck?" Tags="|fluxx|luck|skill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9717" CreationDate="2013-01-09T13:23:25.050" Score="13" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chum&lt;/a&gt; deals 3 damage if the next encountered ICE doesn't have all its subroutines broken. &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01088&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Data Raven&lt;/a&gt; gives the runner the option to either take a tag, or end the run when encountered before proceeding to its subroutine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the runner takes the option to end the run after encountering the Data Raven, do they still take the 3 net damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This would also apply to a TollBooth the runner couldn't pay 3C towards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="18439" LastEditDate="2017-11-03T05:41:41.610" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T05:41:41.610" Title="How do Data Raven and Chum interact?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9716" CreationDate="2013-01-09T14:00:25.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CEAQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%2520FAQ.pdf&amp;amp;ei=CLPtUOaKHdSY0QW8v4GQDA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFW0BmF6c_nzjPXla5E0Ditf_suSw&amp;amp;bvm=bv.1357316858,d.d2k&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Runner take damage if he jacks out after encountering a Chum&#xA;and not breaking its subroutine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The Runner has not encountered&#xA;another piece of ice, and  so the subroutine on Chum has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data Raven's &amp;quot;tag or quit&amp;quot; ability triggers &lt;em&gt;when the runner encounters&lt;/em&gt; the ICE, though.  So by that point the runner MUST now break all the subroutines or pay the Chum penalty... jacking out of the run now won't save them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T18:16:56.000" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2013-01-09T14:11:40.563" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a modicum of skill involved.  You can do some things to increase the odds that random draws will go your way.  Any or all of these could be used to augment &lt;strong&gt;Basic Player&lt;/strong&gt;'s behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recognize that some keepers &lt;a href=&quot;http://bestdanggames.wordpress.com/2009/08/21/fluxx-card-game-goals-and-the-keepers-that-go-with-them/&quot;&gt;appear more often&lt;/a&gt; in goals.  Prioritize &lt;em&gt;The Brain&lt;/em&gt; and generally anything to do with food.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing keepers toward the current goal is usually a waste of time, especially with lots of players.  The goal may change several times before your next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid &lt;em&gt;Draw X&lt;/em&gt; rules when you don't have &lt;em&gt;Play X&lt;/em&gt; to back it up.  Otherwise you hand all your opponents extra card draw before your next turn.  A fistful of cards increases your chances of going off on your next turn, but it does so for everybody at the table.  Risk/reward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play your cards in the proper order, e.g., by not reducing/trashing the current Play rule before you've played all your cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hang on to cards like &lt;em&gt;Let's Do That Again&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Take Another Turn&lt;/em&gt; until the board has some favorable Draw and Play rules.  Setting up a Dominion-style 5-minute turn is soooo much fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, Fluxx is a fun game because of the crazy combinations that make everyone's heads spin.  Actively trying to win is of lesser importance.  In my opinion, the better skill to master is to make sure you don't make the game boring for everyone else:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hand Limit 0&lt;/em&gt; is an awesome card, provided you still have plays left for yourself to change it before your turn ends.  Draw 1/Play 1 with 0-card hands is painful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Play All&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;Draw 1&lt;/em&gt; is similarly bad, though it gets less painful with more opponents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T14:18:31.250" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T14:18:31.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2013-01-09T15:04:41.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're asking the wrong question.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Instead of asking about how some nebulous term (such as 'luck') applies to any particular game, what if we ask instead &quot;how much effect can random chance have on the outcome of a game?&quot;  Now we suddenly have an answerable question!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A game like Chess or Go has no random factors in it, so the answer would be &quot;none&quot;.  This would, in your terminology, be an &quot;all skill&quot; game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A game like Candyland or War is completely driven by random factors, so the answer would be &quot;all&quot;.  In your terminology again, an &quot;all luck&quot; game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Obviously the in-between games (such as the oft-mentioned Fluxx) have &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; measure of both.  The shuffled deck of cards, the roll of the dice, whatever is built into the game to incorporate the random factor.  There are player decisions that are critical to determining the outcome, but the decisions to be made will have to involve the random factors.  Sometimes your numbers come up in Catan, and sometimes they don't.  What you do in each case, how you change your play to extract the most resources out of that random factor, that's a good portion of the skill involved.  How can we measure how important the random factor is in any of these games?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Well, I think our best method of doing that is by applying a very powerful tool: gamers.  It's the near-fanatical players of the game that have the knowledge and experience required to 'rate' any particular game that they've played sufficiently.  In exactly the same way that it's the gamer that rates a game on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/ratings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the 1-10 scale&lt;/a&gt;, it's the gamer that would be able to rate a game on much much of a factor random chance has on the outcome of the game (I would envisage this as a 0%-100% scale) and via a dozen votes I'm sure a common average value would again emerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summation, my answer on &quot;How to measure luck VS skill in a game?&quot; is this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;By adding a &quot;Impact of randomness on game outcome&quot; value to every game in the BGG database and waiting for the most powerful tool of all (us) to calculate the answer for each and every game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I really don't imagine that there's any other method that can work anywhere near as well.  It's the power of parallel processing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T15:04:41.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9715" CreationDate="2013-01-09T15:12:13.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is Fluxx a game of skill or luck?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, yes it is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a game of skill AND luck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A fortunate deal can give you the game, but only if you have the ability to play it correctly.  Continually getting the 'wrong' cards can mean that you'll never win, but a skilled player can mitigate that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't look at the colour grey and ask if it's black or white.  It might be &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; black than white, or closer to white than to black, but you can't say that it's definitively one or the other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T15:12:13.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9753" CreationDate="2013-01-09T17:06:15.387" Score="21" ViewCount="10393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen mentioned over and over that Chapel is a phenomenal card. But I have not seen detailed instructions as to how best to use it. As a relatively new Dominion player (&amp;lt;30 games, ~5 with Chapel card), I've experimented with it by trashing estates at earliest opportunity and after acquiring 2 or more silvers/golds, trashing coppers. However, I haven't managed to decisively win games with it yet against opponents who aren't using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chapel is a terminal action so if it shows up with another action card that can get me a silver or gold (like Militia, Smithy, Council Room, etc.) I'm more inclined to get the silver or gold, and use the Chapel later. So Chapel can actually be dead weight in the beginning which slows getting the silver or gold I need to make it useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be near unanimity among highly skilled Dominion players that when this card is in the game, you use it early and use it often if you want to maximize your chance of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in detail, how does one use the Chapel card to its fullest potential?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good answer would discuss the decision-making process when Chapel and a silver-gathering action card come up in the same 5 card hand early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T17:42:51.727" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T17:42:51.727" Title="How to use Chapel card to its fullest potential?" Tags="|dominion|trashing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9697" CreationDate="2013-01-09T17:39:09.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know exactly what you mean and I've wanted some sort of ranking/rating system as well, in part because how &quot;mean&quot; a game is depends in part on how much luck is involved (mean games being ones where non-winning players feel as though they lost due to choices targeted at them by other players; Diplomacy is probably just about the meanest game out there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a very granular or statistical study comparing and ranking games is probably more work than it is worth, I think that there is a rating scheme that would be useful for knowing more about a game before buying it. How about giving a rating to the existence of various elements in the game based on whether they are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;non-existent or flavor-only (-)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;balanced (according to the rule-book) variety-increasing elements (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;asymmetrical and capable of altering scoring position (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the core mechanic for winning (3).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The elements would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A: Unchosen Flat Chance (single die, spinner with equal segments, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B: Unknown Probabilistic Chance (dice under a cup, cards dealt face-down, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C: Hidden or Simultaneous Choice (pre-selected cards, simultaneous signals, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D: Known Probabilistic Chance (pair of dice, deck of known cards, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E: Choice with Asymmetric Knowledge (pieces with values known to less than all parties, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;F: Fully-informed Choice (chess capture, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Chess and Go would be A-B-C-D-E-F3. Rock-Paper-Scissors would be A-B-C3D-E-F-. Stratego would be A-B-C2D-E3F2. Texas Hold'em would be A-B2C-D3E2F2. Candyland would be A3B-C-D-E-F-. Diplomacy would be A1B-C3D-E-F-.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a first draft, and I'm sure there's room for improvement, but I feel like you could look at the distribution of numbers by element to get a sense of the game. That said, my ordering or categorization seems lacking when it comes to Diplomacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3705" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T17:39:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9721" CreationDate="2013-01-09T18:17:14.127" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chapel can be effectively used mid and late game, but that requires card draw or action branching or both. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick to chapel is to trash lots of cards with it early and not rely on it late game (turn 10 bad mid-late game cards into 1 dead card early). This means trashing your entire starting deck as soon as possible. Do not wait until you have plenty of silver + gold to trash coppers. You should consider trashing coppers immediately and buy 2 silvers (or something to get you to at least $3) when not trashing 4 cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally using the above strategy you will end up with a deck &amp;lt;= 5 cards that contains 1 chapel and 2 silvers (or 2 cards that will make your hand &gt;=$3 each turn). From here you have slim deck that can be quickly transformed to use whatever actions you want from the supply. The next couple of buys you make will see use almost immediately, while your opponents will each have a couple of hands before new cards get to see use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hold off on trashing until later in the game, you are going to have to deal with the following situations:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. drawing chapel when you do not draw anything you want to trash. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. drawing chapel when you have a different action in your hand you want to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T20:18:30.403" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T20:18:30.403" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="936" CreationDate="2013-01-09T19:51:02.713" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;one at a time&amp;quot; is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really nothing confusing about this or any card if you just read it simply and literally without adding any made up external ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may choose an Action card in your hand. Play it three times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I play a King's Court.&#xA;It says I may choose an action card, so I do. The card I choose is King's Court.&#xA;I play it three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First iteration of King's Court:&#xA;It says I may choose an action card, so I do. The card I choose is Smithy.&#xA;I play it three times. Drawing three cards, then another three, then another three&#xA;Now I have 11 cards in my hand, one of the cards I drew was a Bishop, another is a Caravan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second iteration of King's Court:&#xA;It says I may choose an action card, so I do. The card I choose is Bishop.&#xA;I play it three times. Trashing a card, then another, then another, accumulating $3 and some victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Third iteration of King's Court:&#xA;With horror I realize that I don't have any action cards because I bishopped my Caravan during the petit mal seizure bought on by the excitement of my initial play. Oh well. My action phase ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joe is incorrect about his application of supposed &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;rule against impossibilities&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;. There is no such concept in Dominion, and I can think of about a dozen other ways this idea could be misapplied. In the case of King's Court, the word &amp;quot;may&amp;quot; renders such a hypothetical (and incorrect) rule irrelevant, so let's say we are talking about Throne Room instead, which requires that you play an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion is perfectly legal to play an action (or even choose something) that is impossible. Any impossible instructions are simply skipped. Thus the supposed &amp;quot;rule against impossibilities&amp;quot; is refuted directly by the rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player may still play an Action card even if he is not&#xA;able to do everything the Action card tells him to do; but the&#xA;player must do as much as he can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may pick any choice offered, even if you cannot do what it tells&#xA;you to, but once you make a choice, you must complete as much of it as&#xA;you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other similar confusions based on supposed &amp;quot;rule against impossibilities&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent plays Torturer when there are no curses left. &amp;quot;Rule against impossibilities&amp;quot; suggests you must discard 2 cards. Correct answer: You may choose to accept the curse, then smile and say &amp;quot;oops, guess there aren't any&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent plays Torturer when you don't have any cards. &amp;quot;Rule against impossibilities&amp;quot; suggests you must take a curse. Correct answer: You may choose to discard, then smile and say &amp;quot;oops, guess I don't have any&amp;quot; (actually you probably wouldn't be smiling in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throne Room with no action seems like it would be disallowed by &amp;quot;rule against impossibility&amp;quot;, but it is not. You just play it and nothing happens. There are various reason you might want to do this, such as cheaper Peddler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: The rules in Dominion are very well designed (I've yet to see any ambiguities or contradictions in any of the sets). Everything is perfectly clear as long as you read the rules and the cards carefully and literally. Do not add foreign ideas from law school or other sources. In the real world we need lawyers because the law is packed full of ambiguous and contradictory laws. Dominion does not require lawyers, thanks to the brilliant designers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an exercise, I recommend reading the rules with the following in mind: the notes in the right hand margin are redundant (in a good way) clarifications which you should be able to deduce from the main text (as long as you don't let your mind get muddled by external ideas). Similarly, the &amp;quot;Kingdom Card Description&amp;quot; section is also redundant. Make sure every statement in that section is obvious to you from the card text and main rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3742" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T20:42:16.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9725" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-01-09T20:52:37.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A boardgame where novices in a convent are trying to get their secret wishes (flask of whisky, letters from a boyfriend, etc.) by sneaking around the convent at night and avoiding detection by the strict abbess and prioress.  It's a little like &lt;em&gt;Scotland Yard&lt;/em&gt; in reverse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="1530" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T23:43:47.977" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T23:43:47.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9726" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-01-09T20:52:37.247" Score="0" Body="A boardgame where novices in a convent are trying to get their secret wishes (flask of whisky, letters from a boyfriend, etc.) by sneaking around the convent at night and avoiding detection by the strict abbess and prioress.  It's a little like *Scotland Yard* in reverse." OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="1530" LastEditDate="2013-01-09T23:43:40.223" LastActivityDate="2013-01-09T23:43:40.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9727" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-01-09T21:03:05.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A auction-based boardgame from Days of Wonder, in which players bid on illicit cargos at exotic ports.  By making sets of cargo types it is possible to gain victory points.  It has cool little boats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="3475" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T16:10:06.773" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T16:10:06.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9728" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-01-09T21:03:05.150" Score="0" Body="A auction-based boardgame from Days of Wonder, in which players bid on illicit cargos at exotic ports.  By making sets of cargo types it is possible to gain victory points.  It has cool little boats." OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="3475" LastEditDate="2013-01-24T16:09:57.040" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T16:09:57.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9721" CreationDate="2013-01-10T00:10:28.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important thing to keep in mind with Chapel is that it only really shines when it can be used to play important Actions frequently. A naive Chapel into Silver+Gold strategy is surprisingly weak to many players who have lost to powerful Chapel decks; you spend too long trashing cards instead of buying money and end up with a deck that quickly chokes on Victory cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://simulatedominion.wordpress.com/strategies/chapel/&quot;&gt;Simulations of Chapel decks&lt;/a&gt; indicate that a basic Chapel + money-buying strategy loses 2/3 of the time to a money-buying strategy without Chapel. (The &quot;BMU&quot; the linked page refers to is Big Money Ultimate, a money strategy that uses a well-tuned heuristic to buy Duchy and Estate as appropriate near the end of the game.) Making Lab available improves the Chapel deck's win ratio to only about 1/2; Lab benefits from a powerful, thin deck, but not enough to make the strategy dominant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T00:10:28.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9732" CreationDate="2013-01-10T08:07:42.817" Score="10" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a roleplaying game with these elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a board on the table, depicting the rooms of a castle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;miniature pieces on the board, representing the different characters in the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cards and dice used as randomizers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this not a board game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The question may sound antagonistic, but I'm quite serious.  What is it that makes such a game not a board game?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:48:33.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T22:05:41.033" Title="How is a roleplaying game not a board game?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-01-27T01:16:59.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2013-01-10T08:36:57.390" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give a short, simple attempt at answer to kick things off: I would say that a roleplaying game must be partly comprised of hidden information &lt;em&gt;that has been invented by one or more of the players&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the key difference I can see between The Arkham Horror/Mansions of Madness (boardgames) and The Call of Cthulhu (roleplaying game), where both are moderated by a Keeper.  In both setups the Keeper controls the opposition to the players, but in only one is (s)he asked to invent details, descriptions or outcomes, as opposed to just managing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a boardgame, it would be seriously frowned upon for any player (even in a moderatorial role) to come up with new challenges or house rules for the others that are not in the script.  In a roleplaying game, that's practically compulsory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T08:36:57.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2013-01-10T08:40:26.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitions are only useful as long as they are useful. It is much more important that a game category reasonably describes aspects of the game that the person you are communicating with can understand, than that it can be summarized using a few technical bullets. Thus, when normal usage of a term conflicts with some suggested definition, then the definition is wrong, not the usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, a role playing game is not a board game, because most people understand the term board game to exclude role playing games.&#xA;Of course, there is always a gray zone, where a game could realistically be described as either category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T08:40:26.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2013-01-10T12:03:32.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How is a board game not a role-playing game?&lt;/strong&gt; Let's say you have a board game game with these elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;an Overlord (GM) that commands the Monsters and sends Heroes on Quests..&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;multiple players that take on the roles of characters in the game (PC)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Timmy always screaming, &quot;Death to the Orcs&quot; whenever he rolls for an attack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board games can be role playing games and vice versa. Most board games have you take on the role of something/someone, be it a Gingerbread Man, a real estate investor, or island Settler. Traditionally, what makes a role playing game different than a regular board game are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a campaign&lt;/strong&gt;. Most role playing games have you play the same character over multiple gaming sessions. Most board games are played in a single sitting, where the outcome of previous games has no bearing on the current game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;variable rules&lt;/strong&gt;. Many a GM will give a +2 circumstance bonus for clever play. GM's have been know to modify encounters from the rules to take it easier on a party of adventures that have been having bad luck with the dice, so they won't die as easily. Most traditional board games have a strict, rigid rules structure, and players are not encouraged to usually decide rules on the fly.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;open objectives&lt;/strong&gt;. Although a GM might have a particular campaign in mind, the players themselves shape the outcome of the story. Perhaps you want to go after the man who killed your father to flesh out your back story, and no amount of prodding from the GM can get you to save the village from the pending goblin horde. GM's and the players decide what the goals for their characters are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;story telling&lt;/strong&gt;. Although I would guess many a GM, due to player interest, deemphasize the acting and &quot;role&quot; playing of the characters for a more hack'n'slash approach. Most board games don't have you speaking in accents, and trying to emulate conversations between Non-Player Characters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are of course exceptions to every difference. Some role playing games are becoming more like tactical board games. Some board games have campaigns (Descent/Risk Legacy), reward creative play outside the defined rules (Story Cubes), or have you acting out your role (Pitch). Word definitions change, so if people are calling something a &lt;strong&gt;board game&lt;/strong&gt;, it probably is (at least to that person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T12:03:32.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9745" CreationDate="2013-01-10T16:23:04.843" Score="2" ViewCount="1199" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Loser wild flare lets the player declare that both sides lose the encounter. The actual text is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a main player, before encounter cards are selected, you may declare&#xA;  that both sides lose, sending all involved ships to the warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not clear on how exactly to resolve this. The loser flare must be played before encounter cards are played, but it doesn't explicitly state that encounter cards don't get played even though the outcome is already determined. &lt;strong&gt;Should the main players still play their encounter cards?&lt;/strong&gt; This could matter for example for the Oracle super flare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a main player, you may end an encounter after your opponent reveals&#xA;  his or her card. Your opponent takes back his or her card, all ships&#xA;  in the gate return to colonies, and play continues as if a deal had&#xA;  been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or perhaps for the Vacuum wild flare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each main player other than you who reveals an attack card, you&#xA;  may retrieve one ship from the warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the Chosen super flare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may keep any non-encounter cards drawn from the deck while drawing&#xA;  for divine intervention.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If cards don't get played, is there still a Reveal phase?&lt;/strong&gt; I haven't read every card in detail so it's possible that this actually doesn't matter, but I would still like to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:10:50.417" Title="How to resolve Loser Wild Flare" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9743" CreationDate="2013-01-10T16:27:12.667" Score="5" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one player plays a Negotiate card and the other main player plays an Attack card the player playing a negotiate card gets to collect compensation for each ship lost to the warp. If the player playing the Negotiate card is the Zombie, their ships will normally not go to the warp. Does this mean that the Zombie can't normally collect compensation? (unless their power is zapped) Or are the Zombie's ships sent to the warp which causes compensation to be collected, but then the Zombie's power saves those ships before they get there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:45:29.623" Title="Does the Zombie collect compensation even though zero ships are sent to the warp?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9742" CreationDate="2013-01-10T17:19:00.917" Score="11" ViewCount="2131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I attack with a creature with infect, and then my opponent tells me he won't block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intent is to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on my infect creature regardless of whether or not my opponent blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER, my opponent forgets that I have priority and goes straight for the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it seems as though my opponent has just made a game-play error by casting that bolt when he didn't have priority.  Is it legal for me to take advantage of that, and play Giant Growth in response, thus benefiting from the error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T19:22:57.180" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T18:51:38.770" Title="Is it legal to take advantage of my opponent's priority mistakes?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-10T17:32:19.537" Score="1" ViewCount="1892" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine spoke about a game with rules a little bit similar to Quoridor but different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you have a board constituted of squares &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each player has a pawn which he has to move until the opposite side &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each player has several walls consisting of two square pieces &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each move a player can either:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move his pawn of one square&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;place a wall to a position on the board but always let an escape route for the opponent: unlike Quoridor the walls are placed &lt;em&gt;on the square&lt;/em&gt; rather than between them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the game is won when the pawn reaches the opposite side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious if you know the name of this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;edit&lt;/strong&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was actually qoridor but the rules was wrongly explained you can close the question as incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastEditorUserId="2138" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T16:11:34.560" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T16:11:34.560" Title="What is this game similar to Quoridor?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9737" CreationDate="2013-01-10T18:05:10.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a friendly game with someone just learning the game, I would let him take the Lightning Bolt back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if it's a tournament situation, and he did not wait for you to say &quot;done&quot; &quot;go&quot; &quot;no fast effects&quot; &quot;moving to damage&quot; or something similar, you're well within your rights to respond to the Lightning Bolt with a Giant Growth. &lt;em&gt;(I took a look at section 4.2 Tournament Shortcuts of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MtG Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;, and I didn't find anything specifically saying taking advantage of information due to skipping of priority was illegal.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T19:02:50.867" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T19:02:50.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9737" CreationDate="2013-01-10T18:05:20.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should reverse actions until the game is in a legal state. He should not be able to play the spell until you pass priority. I have not been able to find anything regarding you using the information gleaned from his misplay. It is probably not stated anywhere, but is an ethical decision based on your setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament setting, your opponent might even receive punishment. See section 2.5 Gamplay Error - Game rule violation &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the error was discovered within a time frame in which a player&#xA;  could reasonably be expected to notice the error and the situation is&#xA;  simple enough to safely back up without too much disruption to the&#xA;  course of the game, the judge may get permission from the Head Judge&#xA;  to back up the game to the point of the error. Each action taken is&#xA;  undone until the game reaches the point immediately prior to the&#xA;  error. Cards incorrectly placed in hand are returned to the location&#xA;  in the zone from which they were moved (if the identity of the&#xA;  incorrectly drawn card is not known to all players, a random card is&#xA;  returned instead). Once the game is backed up, it continues from that&#xA;  point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However is it not a good idea to try and rely on this as a meta strategy. Doing so can be considered fraud. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/article.asp?ID=10794&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/article.asp?ID=10794&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T18:05:20.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9737" CreationDate="2013-01-10T18:06:28.850" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent attempting to cast Lightning Bolt when they don't have priority is a legal shortcut as outlined in the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;716.1.&lt;/strong&gt; When playing a game, players typically make use of mutually understood shortcuts rather than explicitly identifying each game&#xA;  choice (either taking an action or passing priority) a player makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;716.1a&lt;/strong&gt; The rules for taking shortcuts are largely unformalized. As long as each player in the game understands the intent of each other&#xA;  player, any shortcut system they use is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly your opponent's intent was to cast Lightning Bolt assuming you just planned to pass priority. Therefore, after your opponent has tried to cast Lightning Bolt, you have the option of either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Telling your opponent that he doesn't have priority and forcing him to undo the casting of Lightning Bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the shortcut to happen at which point you can still cast Giant Growth as you should now have priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is legal for you to cast Giant Growth in response to your opponent ignoring your priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Edit&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people claim that only the player with priority can propose a shortcut. While the rules do state this, they also state that any shortcut method that is understood and unambiguous is acceptable. Since players in every magic game I have ever seen (including MTG pro tour and similar high level play) ignore their opponent's priority when moving from their upkeep to their draw phase it seems to me that this behavior should be acceptable during other phases as well. Players may also go into the declare attackers phase by just tapping some of their creatures effectively skipping their opponent's priority. This is fairly common and took me no more than about one minute to find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=Bq6_VXbqpng#t=1131s&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; example and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=Bq6_VXbqpng#t=1910s&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; example. Skipping your opponent's priority in this manner is exactly the same as skipping it after they declared attackers so you can cast Lightning Bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is not okay is saying you are going to do something and then not actually doing it after your opponent decides to not respond to it. (I'm not really sure how this situation came up as it isn't in the original question, but some answers have addressed it) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="3324" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T18:51:38.770" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T18:51:38.770" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9736" CreationDate="2013-01-10T18:48:51.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the Zombie's power is a replacement effect, meaning their ships &lt;em&gt;never go to the warp&lt;/em&gt;. Given this, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://daveola.com/CosmicEncounter/Rules/AH.Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; state that compensation is taken for each ship that the player loses to the warp when playing a negotiate card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If One Player Plays a Negotiate Card and the Other Plays&#xA;  an Attack Card:&lt;/strong&gt; if you played a Negotiate card, your side loses.&#xA;  Automatically. Your ships and your allies’ ships go to the Warp.&#xA;  However, you now claim Compensation from your belligerent&#xA;  opponent. You must take at random, from your opponent’s hand, one&#xA;  card for each ship you lost to the Warp (not counting your allies‘ they&#xA;  get Warped without Compensation). If your opponent doesn’t have&#xA;  enough cards to provide you full Compensation, you take only the&#xA;  cards he or she has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry - I couldn't find the newer rules in PDF form on the web.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Zombie's ships never make it to the warp because of the word &quot;instead&quot; in their rules text, they would not collect compensation for the loss. This is verified &lt;a href=&quot;http://cosmicencounter.wikia.com/wiki/Zombie&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; at the Cosmic Encounter wiki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T18:48:51.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-10T19:04:47.227" Score="2" ViewCount="6727" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is meant in the poker player of using all &quot;5&quot; routes - is it all routes that use 5 carriages or tickets that score 5 points? I did the former but didn't get the achievement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3746" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T17:29:58.613" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T04:10:21.033" Title="How do I get the &quot;5 routes&quot; achievement?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|online|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-02-13T15:51:22.437" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9735" CreationDate="2013-01-10T19:19:24.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the main things to remember here is that you &quot;play&quot; your encounter card face down, and then reveal it after both main players have done so. For reference, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://daveola.com/CosmicEncounter/Rules/AH.Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for this phase are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Play Encounter Cards: After alliances have been formed, the offensive&#xA;  player and the defensive player each choose an Encounter card (Attack or&#xA;  Negotiate) from their respective hands and place them face down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reveal Encounter Cards: Encounter cards are turned face up&#xA;  simultaneously. Or as close to simultaneously as possible in this&#xA;  imperfect universe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Determine Outcome: There are three different outcomes to an&#xA;  encounter, depending on what type of Encounter card (Attack or&#xA;  Negotiate) is played by each player. After Encounter cards are revealed,&#xA;  the encounter is resolved. Then Encounter cards are discarded. Details of&#xA;  encounter resolution are shown below:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Loser Flare needs to be played before any player even selects encounter cards, as emphasized below. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a main player, before encounter cards are &lt;em&gt;selected&lt;/em&gt;, you may declare&#xA;  that both sides lose, sending all involved ships to the warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would move the turn to the &lt;em&gt;Determine Outcome&lt;/em&gt; phase since the outcome has been determined already (i.e.: both players lost, sending all ships to the warp). Since no cards are selected, no cards are played so no cards can be revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should the main players still play their encounter cards?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It specifically says that you must play it before encounter cards are selected. This creates an outcome so there is no outcome to be determined by playing encounter cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If cards don't get played, is there still a Reveal phase?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, no. If there are no cards selected and then played face down, there is nothing to reveal. An outcome has already been determined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T20:10:50.417" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:10:50.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2013-01-10T20:56:19.447" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an archetypical board game, the action focuses almost exclusively on that which can be represented by state on the board, state on a sub-board, or marker substitutions. Further, board games generally operate on the principle of &amp;quot;What is not explicitly permitted is forbidden.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The board itself versus the Narrative&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a Roleplaying game, the board is not the final arbiter of what is present - it's the &amp;quot;Gamemaster.&amp;quot; Further, a great many RPG's do not use a map on the table at all in play; while the minis-on-map crowd has been with us from the dawn of RPG's (I was told this by Dave Arneson via email in 2005 or so, and have seen it since 1980), it wasn't the &amp;quot;normative method of play&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roleplaying games, in general, operate as a radioplay - people talking about their character's actions and speaking their character's dialogue. Even when the board is present and used, it's secondary to the actions as described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rules Precision&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board games tend to have fairly precise, albeit often abstracted, rules. The general principle in board gaming is you can only choose actions for which the rules allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roleplaying games, &lt;em&gt;in general&lt;/em&gt;, take a different approach - what isn't explicitly forbidden is able to be attempted, and rules only delineate what's assured and what's forbidden, leaving a whole gray zone of &amp;quot;This can be attempted but it's up to the GM to figure out how to resolve it.&amp;quot; Some, going back to 1975's T&amp;amp;T, strongly encourage &amp;quot;making stuff up on the fly.&amp;quot; Including house rules to cover issues specific to your group and play style. To a lesser extent, even the 1974 edition of D&amp;amp;D encouraged house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Some fallacies&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several commonly held beliefs about RPG's that are fallacious. I'll address several of them in the spirit of completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hidden Information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hidden information is neither requisite for RPG's, but strongly discouraged in a few (like Houses of the Blooded and Burning Wheel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, it's not alien to board games. Stratego is a simple form of hidden information constructed by a player and kept from the others. More detailed forms include any board games with double blind play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Gamemaster/Overlord&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's normative to have a singular Gamemaster running RPG's, several do not require one, usually sharing the duties amongst the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, most double-blind games require a referee, and many wargames of the 1960's and 70's presume a 3rd player will serve as referee. Not a few include the provision in the campaign rules for the GM to introduce surprises of their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Continuing Campaigns and Character Growth&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these are present in a number of board games. FGU's Star Explorer has continuing campaigns of multiple plays, and character advancement of the captain. Car Wars by SJG, Star Warriors by West End and BattleTech by FASA/WhizKids likewise allow driver/pilot experience to improve in continuing non-roleplaying campaigns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While they are normative to RPG's, not all RPGs include them; a few are intended for one-shot play per character, and provide no means of character growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Speaking in Character.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's required in &lt;em&gt;Aye, Dark Master&lt;/em&gt;, a card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not actually required in most RPG's, the rules working just fine with the abstracted &amp;quot;My dude's gonna try and charm the society lady using my savoir-faire skill.&amp;quot; It's not the norm to play in the abstracted third person, but it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;There's a clear line&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car Wars has been straddling the line since the mid 80's... neither fully board game, in that there are suggestions on how to roleplay in Deluxe and later rulebooks, but also not fully RPG as the game is played strongly tied to the map-state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battlestations likewise sits just a hair on the boardgame side, but the authors themselves refuse to class it as purely either one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burning Empires is often described as a narrativist wargame in roleplay mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diplomacy is as much a freeform roleplaying of diplomats as it is a wargame. Several of its derivatives are likewise strong on the off-map action being as important as the on-map/on-component tracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T20:56:19.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-10T21:53:34.943" Score="13" ViewCount="17177" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, I was playing a duel, and my friend played a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Reverence&quot;&gt;Wall of Reverence&lt;/a&gt;, which he then ended up enchanting with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ethereal%20Armor&quot;&gt;Ethereal Armor&lt;/a&gt;. Between those two actions he asked me if I would counter it, to which I answered that I would wait for him to play the rest of his cards so I could choose what to do. He said that I had to counter the Wall of Reverence before he played Ethereal Armor for the counter to work. Was he right about that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3747" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T23:44:56.233" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T13:42:06.010" Title="How long can I wait before choosing to counter a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9748" CreationDate="2013-01-10T22:13:55.083" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your friend was right.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting spells and activating abilities puts them on the so-called &lt;strong&gt;Stack&lt;/strong&gt; before they actually resolve and turn into creatures, enchantments, and so on. The Stack is a pretty important part of MtG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only counter spells and abilities while they are on the stack; indeed, a spell can only be a spell on the stack, and if you read your counter spells carefully, they say exactly that: counter target spell. Therefore, if it's not on the Stack, you can't counter it, because it can't be a spell. Once a spell has resolved, it's off the Stack and it's too late to counter it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most spells, like creature, enchantment, or sorcery spells can only be played while the stack is empty, among other things. That means, if your friend first played a creature (the Wall of Reverence), and then an enchantment (Ethereal Armor) on that Wall, the Wall can no longer be on the Stack and must already be on the battlefield. Not to mention that this enchantment requires a target, which can in this case only be a creature that's already on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only situation where you can choose which spell to counter is, obviously, when multiple spells are on the Stack. The first spell can be anything, and the other spells are typically instants. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that your opponent is not required to respond to a spell, even if he could (which he could not in this case) - if he so chooses, he can just let any spell resolve, then cast the next, let it resolve, and so on, until he has played everything he wanted to. Indeed, this is a common strategy against a player like you who plays counter spells, because he forces you to decide on incomplete information. If all spells were on the Stack at the same time, you would of course have a much easier time to decide which spell to counter, if any, which is why a smart player would deny you that opportunity, and he has every right to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T22:13:55.083" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9748" CreationDate="2013-01-10T22:14:07.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;He's right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He cast Wall of Reverence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He didn't want to cast anything in response, so he passed priority. (&amp;quot;Do you want to counter it?&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point, you either had to cast a spell or pass priority. If you were to pass priority, Wall of Reverence would resolve, so it would no longer be a spell, so you would no longer be able to counter it. You have to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; it there and then, or lose your chance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ethereal Armor is not an instant, and Ethereal Armor can't enchant Wall of Reverence before the wall enters the battlefield, so he didn't even have the option of casting Ethereal Armor in response to Wall of Reverence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-10T22:19:48.140" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T22:19:48.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9748" CreationDate="2013-01-10T22:18:40.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can counter an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ethereal%20Armor&quot;&gt;Ethereal Armor&lt;/a&gt; only if you don't counter &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Reverence&quot;&gt;Wall of Reverence&lt;/a&gt;. If you counter the wall, there would not be a legal target for EA. Since EA isn't an instant, your opponent cannot cast it until the stack is empty. This implies that the wall has either been countered, or you have decided to allow it to resolve. You cannot choose to wait to see what else your opponent casts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-10T22:18:40.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9744" CreationDate="2013-01-11T01:19:25.460" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Get all the 5-car, 10 point scores, there are 8. You must also win the game too. Recommend playing against only one bot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3749" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T01:19:25.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9721" CreationDate="2013-01-11T03:35:54.207" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;To fully understand how to use Chapel, you have to examine its use with many different Kingdom setups. I will only detail some scenarios from the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Standard Big Money Strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard &lt;strong&gt;Big Money Canonical&lt;/strong&gt; strategy is to buy a Provence, else buy a Gold, else buy a Silver. To get a better understanding on how Chapel works effectively, it might be best to remove all the other complications from the deck, and examine how Chapel works to enhance the basic &lt;strong&gt;Big Money&lt;/strong&gt; strategy. The first two turns will be Chapel and Silver. What are the possible 3rd/4th turns, that contain a Chapel? The table below shows the probability of getting a Chapel (Row) with different distributions of Copper (C), Silver (S), or Estate (E). Your other hand (Column), and its dollar worth are also displayed. (There is a 1/6th chance that you don't get Chapel until your 5th turn). These &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2011/03/09/basic-opening-probabilities/&quot;&gt;figures&lt;/a&gt; agree with my calculations, so I hope that means I didn't make any mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                   |4C,S | 5C  |3C,S,1E|4C,1E|2C,2E,S|3C,2E|1C,3E,S|2C,3E|&#xA;                   +-$6--+------$5-----+-------$4----+------$3-----+--$2-+&#xA;  ( 8.84%) 4C      | -   | -   | 1.26% |  -  | 3.79% |1.26%| 1.26% |1.26%|(Trash4)&#xA;  ( 8.84%) 3C,S    | -   | -   |  -    |1.26%| -     |5.05%| -     |2.53%|(Trash3)&#xA;  (26.52%) 3C,1E   |1.26%| -   | 10.1% |2.53%| 7.58% |5.05%| -     | -   |(Trash4)     &#xA;  (15.91%) 2C,2E   |3.79%|0.78%| 7.58% |3.79%| -     | -   | -     | -   |(Trash4)&#xA;  (15.91%) 2C,S,1E | -   |0.78%| -     |7.58%| -     |7.58%| -     | -   |(Trash3)&#xA;  ( 5.30%) 1C,S,2E | -   |3.79%| -     |1.52%| -     | -   | -     | -   |(Trash3)&#xA;  ( 1.77%) 1C,3E   |0.51%|1.26%| -     | -   | -     | -   | -     | -   |(Trash4)&#xA;  ( 0.25%) S,3E    | -   |0.25%| -     | -   | -     | -   | -     | -   |(Trash3)&#xA;                   +-----+-----+-------+-----+-------+-----+-------+-----+ Chapel|&#xA;                   |5.5% |     25.7%   |    28%      |     20%     | 3.8%| 16.7% |&#xA;                                                                         | Turn 5|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you compare the results of the &lt;strong&gt;Chapel Canonical&lt;/strong&gt; is a deck of usually 10-9 cards, with a small 16.7% chance of not having drawn Chapel until Turn 5 (To mitigate this, it might be worth it to buy a Chapel during Turn 3 when you only have a $2 hand. I haven't worked out the exact math, but it looks like there is a ~0.8% chance that you draw Chapel 5th turn and only had a $2 Turn 3 hand, compared to a ~2% chance of having a $2 Turn 3 and drawing Chapel Turn 4. I think it is worth the risk of buying Chapel Turn 3 on a $2 hand to mitigate a slow Turn 5 Chapel Start. It is unlikely that you draw 2 Chapels Turn 5, so you should be able to shrink your deck by Turn 7-8 with the extra Chapel). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Turn 5, the deck will usually consist of 2 Silver, 2 Estates (23% chance of Trashing 2),  4-5 Copper, and your Chapel. A &lt;strong&gt;Big Money Canonical&lt;/strong&gt; deck will usually have 14 cards. It will consist of 4 Silvers (~28% chance of 1 Gold in place), 3 Estates, and 7 Copper. The most important goal for both of these decks is to hit that magical $6 hand. Starting with Turn 5/6, the Chapel deck should be able to pull this off more often. The Chapel deck should be able to buy a Gold during Turn 5/6, and should be able to remove another 4-2 cards. This will setup their Turn 7/8 with a 8-7 card deck that consists of 1 Gold, 2 Silver, 1-0 Estate, 4-3 Copper. From that point onward, the Chapel deck should consistently be able to buy Gold, if not a Provence. &lt;strong&gt;Big Money&lt;/strong&gt; on the other hand keeps increasing the size of their deck. They draw their own Gold less often, and have a much higher chance of drawing the Gold with Estates (making it difficult to hit $6 or $8). It is important to note that by Chapeling away your Estates, you are 3 Points down from your opponent. It is vitally important to modify this canonical simplistic strategy to take into account the number of Provinces left, the current VP deficit, and which other Kingdom cards are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Thief (Treasure Stealers)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Chapel strategy is very risky with Thief available in the Kingdom cards. Removing the chaff from your deck increases the likelihood that your opponent hits your Gold/Silver. This is especially true in mulitplayer where you will be subject to multiple attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Workshop and Gardens (Quick Piles)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ignore your Chapel strategy, it is too slow. Your opponents will increase the size of their decks making their Gardens worth 2-3VP, and will end the game on piles before you get your money building Province buying engine online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Militia (Hand Destruction)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chapel works because of its ability to remove chaff from a hand with Chapel in it. Any card that shrinks your hand size reduces the effectiveness of Chapel, reducing the trashing from a maximum of 4 to 2. A Chapel strategy gets considerably weaker in multiplayer, with multiple opponents able to attack you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, it is preferable to &lt;strong&gt;not Chapel&lt;/strong&gt; if you have another action card in your hand that would gain you a &lt;strong&gt;Gold/Province&lt;/strong&gt; if you played it. Your first two turns will likely be Chapel/Silver, unless a really good $4/$3 card is available (&lt;strong&gt;Militia&lt;/strong&gt; in a 2-Player game is very good, and shouldn't hurt a Chapel strategy game too badly). Good examples of this are &lt;strong&gt;Chancellor/Bureaucrat&lt;/strong&gt;, or any other card that gains you $2. Even a card like &lt;strong&gt;Remodel&lt;/strong&gt; can supplement a Chapel strategy, and turn that Chapel into a Remodel mid-game, and eventually into Golds/Duchies. The sixth of a time that you get a $5/$2 split, you should probably by a $5-card instead of a Silver. No $5 is worse than a Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-game, when your deck has dwindled, you should almost always play the action card. This is especially true if you are unable to trash 2-3 Coppers/Estates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T03:35:54.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9737" CreationDate="2013-01-11T05:51:34.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I initially believed Matt was correct, it was pointed out (by LJ2?) that one cannot create a shortcut if one doesn't have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.2a At any point in the game, &lt;strong&gt;the player with priority&lt;/strong&gt; may suggest a shortcut [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, your opponent is merely requesting priority, leaving you the following two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tell your opponent that he doesn't have priority, preventing him from actually casting the Lightning Bolt at this time. (Any action he already took would be rolled back.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Acquiesce his request and give up priority. Since no shortcut was proposed, he's not required to follow up with Lightning Bolt or he could change his choice of target, but he must follow up with an action (other than passing) according to the Tournament Rules. (If he doesn't, the game rolls back to when you had priority.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you have the option of casting your spell before his Lightning Bolt, in response to it, or even after it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T05:51:34.747" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9758" CreationDate="2013-01-11T08:19:58.803" Score="6" ViewCount="1677" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything fairly priced will also work. Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T17:35:13.750" LastActivityDate="2019-10-24T20:06:15.427" Title="Is there a free site to play Yu-Gi-Oh?" Tags="|online|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-01-15T14:17:24.777" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9757" CreationDate="2013-01-11T09:11:24.257" Score="8" ViewCount="3030" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions about the spawning of zombies inside opened buildings in Zombicide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) When an actor opens a door, should we draw a zombie card for every room of the building, or just one per building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If the players begin the game inside a building, are there zombies in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3684" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2013-01-11T23:38:20.380" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T19:11:42.507" Title="Spawning Zombies inside buildings" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9756" CreationDate="2013-01-11T10:50:57.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) One per room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting rules summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Opening the first door in a building (except the start area) generates Zombies in each zone. For each zone, draw a Zombie card and place them accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T10:50:57.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9755" CreationDate="2013-01-11T12:45:11.580" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.duelingnetwork.com/&quot;&gt;http://www.duelingnetwork.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to hit problems with the intro and needed to block the music file they use (it's not a part of the flash file for some weird reason), but it works well for what it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T12:45:11.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9756" CreationDate="2013-01-11T14:05:31.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://guillotinegames.com/dl/zombicide_rulebook_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 8) under the &lt;strong&gt;Opening a Door&lt;/strong&gt; heading, you draw one card for each room (aka Zone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening the first door of a building reveals all Zombies which are inside. Point to each Zone of the building, one after the other, drawing a Zombie card each time. Place the corresponding number of Zombies on the correct Zone (see Zombie's turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://guillotinegames.com/dl/zomb_faq_1.0_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 1), no Zombies spawn in the starting building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Should I draw a Zombie card when opening the door of the building containing the Player starting area?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T14:05:31.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9763" CreationDate="2013-01-11T22:17:22.783" Score="6" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was the Alexandria civilization&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HMmWg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the Alexandria civilization board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which starts with the glass luxury good as a starting resource. I played the Chamber of Commerce card (the middle one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Ujfg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chamber of Commerce is the middle one&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which grants a player 2 gold and 2 victory points for each luxury good they have. However, upon counting my starting resource as &quot;a card&quot;, my friend pointed out that the Chamber of Commerce has a &lt;em&gt;gray rectangle&lt;/em&gt; on it; obviously this meant that it only counts if the luxury good is a &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt;, not a starting resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I thought this was outrageous, but I thought it would make for a good question here. Any thoughts? I didn't find anything in the rules about special exceptions for starting resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T22:32:28.737" Title="Using the Chamber of Commerce as Alexandria" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9761" CreationDate="2013-01-11T22:19:50.180" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is correct, Chamber of Commerce and other cards like it only count resource cards, not your starting resources or resources produced from other sources such as Wonder benefits or Yellow cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Description of the Wonders page of the rules you'll see a clarification at the top&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clarification: the resources produced by the boards are not considered&#xA;  to be cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T22:19:50.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9761" CreationDate="2013-01-11T22:32:28.737" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; there is a specific example of how this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Page 6, in para 6, &quot;Commercial Structures&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Alexandria has built the Chamber of Commerce. This structure&#xA;  is worth 2 Victory Points for each gray card present in their city. &#xA;  Alexandria has played 2 gray cards: 4 Victory Points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in the accompanying picture, Alexandria has played two cards on top of their starting glass luxury good.  You can't get any clearer than that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the fact that the Chamber of Commerce depicts &lt;em&gt;a gray card&lt;/em&gt; on it, as opposed to any other gray object, makes it easier to accept that it's only cards that matter for scoring it, not other sources of luxury goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-11T22:32:28.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-11T23:01:19.703" Score="5" ViewCount="3485" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I recently had a conversation around making a set of rules for a buy-in variant on Risk, and I wanted some help from experienced players to review them as they stand now. Risk is not a game that I know well, but well enough to ask some questions about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example we talked about splitting the pot on all 42 countries at $5 a piece; between 6 players, that's a $35 buy in. Players get their $5 bills (or chips that represent them) and must trade money upon losing/gaining territories at the end of each turn. As for quitting a game, a player can't quit unless they forfeit all of their money and walk away from the table, allowing for automatic defense rolls from the other players. To enforce fairness (and to avoid an annoying &quot;winner take all&quot; result each game), if all players from 2nd place until the current last place player all agree to &quot;flag&quot; their places and end the game, first place must then quit and take their money, as does all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this approach, placing troops may result in one player taking all of their infantry on just a few territories; another may start with a larger amount of territories with less reinforcements. Would a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_%28game%29#Alternate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;French setup&lt;/a&gt; work better for this type of play? Are there other pitfalls that I may be overlooking? Anybody out there tried to add money to a game of Risk? What were the results? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastEditorUserId="317" LastEditDate="2013-01-12T16:12:03.770" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T04:24:44.120" Title="Adding money to a game of Risk" Tags="|house-rules|risk|betting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2013-01-12T01:53:51.757" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be careful.&lt;/strong&gt; Usually tinkering with houserules, if you overlook something, you can make it up on the spot. If there is real money at stake, suddenly the game becomes much more serious and the ability to quickly tweak something which might be in one player's favor or another is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your initial idea, I see several dramatic flaws. First is that Risk is &lt;em&gt;designed&lt;/em&gt; as a winner-take-all game. You propose to have the ability to end the game short by unanimous-save-one consent. &lt;strong&gt;This will not work.&lt;/strong&gt; One player, for instance, might have relatively few territories, but be well-fortified, well-positioned and have cards prepared for a powerful game-winning strike. Will this player be considered to be in the lead? If not, he will never agree to end the game. If so, he will lose out, controlling many fewer territories although the favorite to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to make careful rules about when the game is allowed to come to an end. Can it be ended before a powerful attack? After an unlucky turn? Before whose attack--because the last attacker can just spread himself thin, without any regard to defense, and collect an unfairly large share of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With directed attacks, you may face accusations of favoritism or collusion that are much more venomous than in a non-stakes game. In this case, I think that &lt;strong&gt;playing Risk for money is a questionable idea&lt;/strong&gt;, and playing with house rules to allow any stakes other than winner-take-all would be &lt;strong&gt;potentially disastrous.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T01:53:51.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10808" CreationDate="2013-01-12T14:47:58.757" Score="11" ViewCount="4754" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently acquired the 2nd Edition of A Game of Thrones: The Board Game. I've played the older edition for years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having people over to play the new version later today, many of whom are familiar with the old version, but I haven't exhaustively read the new rules yet. I noticed in the quick reference sheet that there are minor (but important!) rules differences, such as how the Star Raid order works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What rules changes have there been since the first edition and its expansions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T11:29:29.320" Title="What's new in A Game of Thrones 2nd Edition?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9768" CreationDate="2013-01-12T19:07:19.677" Score="5" ViewCount="1435" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Orrery&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt; and I used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; on something, could I respond to Cloudshift bringing the creature back into play with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgement&quot;&gt;Day of Judgement&lt;/a&gt; or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3755" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T20:30:03.927" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T20:30:03.927" Title="Can I cast spells in the middle of another spell resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-02-11T23:40:48.530" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9767" CreationDate="2013-01-12T19:54:02.203" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Cloudshift is resolved as a single, atomic event.  There is no time in between the parts of its effect in which anyone has a window of opportunity to cast a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.2e Resolving spells and abilities may instruct players to make choices or take actions, or may allow players to activate mana&#xA;  abilities. Even if a player is doing so, no player has priority while&#xA;  a spell or ability is resolving. See rule 608, &quot;Resolving Spells and&#xA;  Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T19:54:02.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9767" CreationDate="2013-01-12T19:54:34.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;To respond to X&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;to cast or activate after X is placed on the stack but before X resolves.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can respond to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;, but not to &amp;quot;bringing creature back&amp;quot;. That's not a spell, activated ability or triggered ability. You do not get priority in the middle of a spell resolving [CR 116.2e].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgement&quot;&gt;Day of Judgement&lt;/a&gt; in response to Cloudshift, it you would resolve before Cloudshift does anything at all. Cloudshift cannot save a creature from Day of Judgement, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fiend%20Hunter&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Disappearance&quot;&gt;Sudden Disappearance&lt;/a&gt; could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-12T20:00:04.680" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T20:00:04.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9767" CreationDate="2013-01-12T19:56:12.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no, Cloudshift removes and puts back a creature as part of the same effect, so you cannot 'inturrupt' the effect in the middle of its action by casting some other spell. You could Day of Judgement before you cast or after you cast cloudshift, but you cannot remove your own creature, Day of Judgment, and then put it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2013-01-12T19:56:12.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9771" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9773" CreationDate="2013-01-12T20:40:59.467" Score="34" ViewCount="197584" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'em poker, there are some cases where a particular card, often called kicker, acts as a tiebreaker between players to determine who wins the pot, or if the pot has to be shared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some combinations such as three or four of a kind, there is no doubt: the kicker is the 5th card of the chosen combination, and determines the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alice has 7 and 10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Bob has 7 and K&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  On the board are 7, 7, 2, 3, 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, both have a three of a kind. But because Bob has a king and Alice only a 10, he wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of poker websites explaining the rules clearly mention the role of the kicker applying to three of a kind and double pairs. But much fewer say something about colors, straights and full houses, and I found many contradicting answers. I also asked the question to some used online poker players and they also gave me contradicting answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to search for official tournament rules, but most of them only explain what happens with bad behaviors, bad deals, incorrect or confusing betting, showing cards when you shouldn't, acting when it's not your turn, etc. without mentioning subtleties about combinations at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify my question, I will take three examples; I think it's better to start with examples before getting to the general answer if one exists. So, what's happening in the following 3 examples? Could you give a more generalized answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 1 - Flushes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alice has 2&amp;clubs; and 3&amp;clubs;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Bob has 4&amp;clubs; and 5&amp;clubs;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  On the board are 6&amp;clubs;, 8&amp;clubs;, 10&amp;clubs;, 2&amp;hearts;, 5&amp;diams;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contradicting answer 1: it's a tie, because the highest card included in the flush is the 10, which everybody chooses to include in their 5 showdown cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Contradicting answer 2: Bob wins, because he has the greatest private card that is part of the flush&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 2 - Straight&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alice has 6 and K&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Bob has 6 and J&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  On the board are 4, 5, 7, 8, 10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contradicting answer 1: it's a tie, because the greatest card in the straight is the 8 for both Alice and Bob&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Contradicting answer 2: Alice wins, because she owns an extra king, compared to the jack of Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 3 - Full house&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alice has 3 and 7&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Bob has 3 and 6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  On the board are 3, 3, 2, 2, 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contradicting answer 1: it's a tie, because one is supposed to choose only five cards to make a combination, and a full house is already five cards. There couldn't be any kicker, and thus their showdowns are strictly equals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Contradicting answer 2: Alice wins because of her extra 7, compared to the 6 of Bob&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much for your answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm unable to post next to you, so I edit my own post; strange not be able to answer to an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, So if I summarize what you are saying :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the flush case, Bob wins because at some point, their hand differs. Technically, I can continue comparing the highest private card to decide who wins. I had it correct.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the straight case, if the highest card of the straight is public, then it's technically always a tie, no matter what the players had as second private card (asuming that only one of the two cards was part of the straight).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a full house if both players have the same triplet and the same pair, it's always a tie, no matter what the players had as second private card (assuming again that only one of the two was part of the full house).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please confirm me that what I summarized is correct. &#xA;Thank you for your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3756" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T20:01:15.763" LastActivityDate="2024-03-29T05:10:52.500" Title="How do you determine the winner of a Texas Hold'em poker hand?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|poker|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9771" CreationDate="2013-01-12T20:54:19.397" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all: in your examples 2 and 3, the 'extra cards' (Alice's king and Bob's jack in example 2, and Alice's 7 and Bob's 6 in example 3) effectively &lt;em&gt;don't exist&lt;/em&gt;: for comparison purposes, you use precisely each player's best 5-card hand.  Those hands are 45678 in example 2 and 33322 in example 3; any additional cards in the player's hands are entirely moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 1, on the other hand, follows exactly the rules for kicker cards: Alice's flush is 2, 3, 6, 8, ten (of hearts), while Bob's is 4, 5, 6, 8, ten (of hearts).  Since Bob's cards are 'higher' than Alice's, Bob wins the hand.  More generically, what's used for flushes (and technically for straights) is &lt;em&gt;lexicographic order&lt;/em&gt; : compare the highest cards (in the player's 5-card hands, remember!); if they're the same, compare the second-highest cards; and so on down to the end.  As soon as you find one card higher than the other, that player wins; if you never find any cards higher than the other, then it's a tie.  This is the idea that covers examples 2 and 3.  (Technically it covers example 1, too - it's just that that example falls into the tie case.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same concept works for the other classes of hands too, but you have to be careful about comparison order; for pairs, two pairs, and three of a kinds, compare the 'feature' cards first (this is where kickers come into play, when the feature cards are the same: ten, ten, king, three, two beats ten, ten, queen, jack, nine, but king, king, 4, 3, 2 would beat queen, queen, jack, ten, 9).  For full houses, always compare the three-of-a-kinds first (so a hand of 5, 5, 5, 4, 4 would still beat a hand of 3, 3, 3, King, King).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2013-01-13T01:03:04.770" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T01:03:04.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9771" CreationDate="2013-01-13T05:09:16.497" Score="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing to mention is definitely that there are no extra cards. Poker hands are evaluated with exactly five cards. Sometimes you use all five community cards as your best hand, in which case your pocket is useless (bluffing aside, of course). So strike that right away: if you can't beat your opponent with five cards, you've lost (or tied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true even if all players are using the community cards. In the extreme example, say a Royal Flush comes down in the community cards. Everyone gets a Royal Flush (in which case, obviously, you go all in hoping your opponent makes a mistake.) You're not forced to say &amp;quot;Well, I had an ace in my hand, so I break the tie between the two of us.&amp;quot; No, no, and no, you all have the community cards, you tie, split the pot and move on to the next hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next step is to evaluate the hands. It starts like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have a straight flush? A straight flush is having both a straight and flush at the same time. A flush is all 5 cards being the same suit. A straight is having 5 consecutive cards, consecutive being defined with the order A, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, J, Q, K, A. Ace is in the list twice, but you cannot overlap A. Thus, &lt;code&gt;A, 2, 3, 4, 5&lt;/code&gt; is a straight, &lt;code&gt;10, J, Q, K, A&lt;/code&gt; is a straight, but &lt;code&gt;Q, K, A, 2, 3&lt;/code&gt; is not. A Royal Flush (&lt;code&gt;10, J, Q, K, A&lt;/code&gt; of the same suit) is sometimes considered a special straight flush, but in reality it's just the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; straight flush.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have a straight flush?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, the winner is the one with the highest card. (&lt;code&gt;A-2-3-4-5&lt;/code&gt; is the lowest straight, while &lt;code&gt;10-J-Q-K-A&lt;/code&gt; is the highest straight.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple people share the highest card (either in a different suit or because there is a straight flush in the community cards) they split the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have 4 of a kind?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have 4 of a kind?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, the one with the highest 'set of 4' is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players have the highest set of 4 (which is not achievable with a standard poker deck, but is with a double deck or community cards), the one with the highest kicker (highest card not in the set of 4) is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this card is the same, they split the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have a full house?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have full houses?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, then keeping in mind that a full house is a 3-set and a 2-set, the player with the highest 3-set wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players share the highest 3-set (which isn't possible without community cards like in hold 'em, or a double deck) then the player with the highest 2-set is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the 2-set and 3-set is the same, those players split the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have a flush? A flush is defined as all 5 cards of the same suit.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have a flush?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, the player with a flush with the highest unique card is the winner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This hand is similar to 'high card' resolution, where each card is effectively a kicker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that a flush requires the same suit, not just color. While the colors used on the suit are red and black, two each, there's nothing to that connection. A club is no more similar to a spade than it is to a heart - only suit matters. The colors are red and black for historical purposes and so the same deck can be played for other games where that might matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have a straight? A straight is 5 consecutive cards that do not wrap around the Ace. See full explanation in the Straight Flush description.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have straights?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If so, the player with the highest straight wins. (&lt;code&gt;A-2-3-4-5&lt;/code&gt; is the lowest straight, while &lt;code&gt;10-J-Q-K-A&lt;/code&gt; is the highest straight.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players share the highest straight, they split the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have a 3 of a kind?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have 3 of a kind?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, the player with the highest 3-set wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players have the highest 3-set, the player with the highest kicker wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players tie for highest 3-set and highest kicker, the player with the highest &amp;quot;second kicker&amp;quot; wins the pot. (For example, &lt;code&gt;A A A K Q&lt;/code&gt; beats &lt;code&gt;A A A K J&lt;/code&gt; - here, A A A are the 3-set, K is the kicker, and Q and J are the second-kickers.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the players tie for the highest 3-set, highest kicker, and highest second kicker, the players split the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have 2-pair?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have 2-pair?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, the player with the highest pair wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players tie for the highest pair, the player with the second highest pair wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players tie for both pairs, the player with the highest kicker wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players tie for both pairs and the kicker, the players split the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does any single player have a pair?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, that player wins the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do multiple players have a pair?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If yes, the player with the highest pair win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If multiple players have the highest pair, the player with the highest kicker wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compare second and third kickers as expected to resolve conflicts, or split if all three kickers tie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point, all cards are kickers, so compare the first, second, third, fourth, and if necessary, fifth highest cards in order until a winner is resolved, or split the pot if the hands are identical.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when comparing two hands, all suits are equal in Poker - the ranking of suits from games such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/bridge&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt; and Five Hundred have no bearing on evaluating Poker hands. Bridge order is, however, used for certain &amp;quot;bring in&amp;quot; tie breakers, such as 7 card stud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="38907" LastEditDate="2024-03-29T05:10:52.500" LastActivityDate="2024-03-29T05:10:52.500" CommentCount="26" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="9774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9775" CreationDate="2013-01-13T05:14:23.653" Score="4" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started playing with friends and for spells, the bonus on the hit dice is current focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Determine a magic attack's success by making a &lt;strong&gt;magic attack roll&lt;/strong&gt;. Roll 2d6 and add the attacking model's current FOCUS. roll an additional die if the roll is boosted. Special rules and certain circumstances might modify the attack &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does it mean? Is it the remaining focus you have at the time of the spell? And if so, is it counted before or after you spend the focus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With my warcaster, I have 6 max focus (the number of focus I have at the beginning of the round) after spending some of my focus on my warjacks, I have 2 left available. I decide to cast a spell that costs me 2 focus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my bonus to hit is 6, 2 or 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3758" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T05:59:56.813" Title="What does current focus mean?" Tags="|warmachine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9774" CreationDate="2013-01-13T05:59:56.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?136820-What-does-current-focus-mean&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PrivateerPress forums&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FOCUS (in all caps) refers to the warcaster's FOCUS stat, which will only change if affected by an ability (Eg pDenny's feat). Focus (lower case) refers to the number of focus tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the case of a spell, your magic attack roll is FOCUS + 2D6, using your caster's FOCUS 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3758" LastActivityDate="2013-01-13T05:59:56.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-14T00:39:57.087" Score="4" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say I have two units at Winterfell, and two units at White Harbor. I can march from White Harbor. Can I do that with both units and march to Winterfell, and by doing so break the maximum limit of three units at Winterfell? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any rule saying something about marching from somewhere and making a total army of, say, six or more in one area...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3762" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T16:31:39.230" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T16:31:39.230" Title="Can I exceed the maximum Army size by moving in more units?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9777" CreationDate="2013-01-14T05:37:31.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/a_game_of_thrones_the_board_game/media/agotbgrules.pdf&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, on page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Golden Rule&lt;/strong&gt;: You may never move (or retreat) a unit so that it violates your current Army Supply limits (as indicated on the Supply Track). Should you do so by accident, you must immediately destroy enough units to make your armies in Supply again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T05:37:31.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="9780" CreationDate="2013-01-14T06:16:45.460" Score="14" ViewCount="3844" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249714&quot;&gt;Predatory Rampage&lt;/a&gt;, which resolves, then he attacks with his creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my hand, I have a creature card with Flash. If I summon this creature before the declare blockers step, will it be affected by Predatory Rampage's blocking requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T10:42:10.017" Title="Does a card that affects 'each' creature affect creatures that enter the battlefield after it resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="9780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9779" CreationDate="2013-01-14T07:52:54.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's an easy one, as it is in the Gatherer rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Each creature your opponents control blocks if able, even if that creature wasn't on the battlefield or wasn't controlled by an opponent when Predatory Rampage resolved.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T07:52:54.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9779" CreationDate="2013-01-14T10:36:02.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I trawled the Comprehensive Rules for an authoritative answer to this excellent question (the ruling on Predatory Rampage may say how it works, but it doesn't say &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it works!) and I think the following rule explains all.  Bolded by me for emphasis of the most important line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of&#xA;any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that&#xA;continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won't change.&#xA;(Note that this works differently than a continuous effect from a&#xA;static ability.) &lt;strong&gt;A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a&#xA;spell or ability that doesn't modify the characteristics or change the&#xA;controller of any objects modifies the rules of the game, so it can&#xA;affect objects that weren't affected when that continuous effect&#xA;began&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: An effect that reads &amp;quot;All white creatures get +1/+1&#xA;until end of turn&amp;quot; gives the bonus to all permanents that are white&#xA;creatures when the spell or ability resolves -- even if they change&#xA;color later -- and doesn't affect those that enter the battlefield or&#xA;turn white afterward. Example: An effect that reads &amp;quot;Prevent all&#xA;damage creatures would deal this turn&amp;quot; doesn't modify any object's&#xA;characteristics, so it's modifying the rules of the game. That means&#xA;the effect will apply even to damage from creatures that weren't on&#xA;the battlefield when the continuous effect began. It also affects&#xA;damage from permanents that become creatures later in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T10:36:02.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9779" CreationDate="2013-01-14T10:42:10.017" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It varies a lot depending on the specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Predatory%20Rampage&quot;&gt;Predatory Rampage&lt;/a&gt;, we're talking about two continuous effects generated by something other than a static ability. One modifies the characteristics of objects, and the other doesn't. Both of those situations are covered by 611.2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won’t change. (Note that this works differently than a continuous effect from a static ability.) A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability that doesn’t modify the characteristics or change the controller of any objects modifies the rules of the game, so it can affect objects that weren’t affected when that continuous effect began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Creatures you control get +3/+3 until end of turn.&amp;quot; affects only the creatures that existed when Predatory Rampage resolved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Each creature your opponents control blocks this turn if able.&amp;quot; affects all matching creatures at all times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these are covered by rulings in Gatherer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T10:42:10.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10781" CreationDate="2013-01-14T11:39:47.117" Score="7" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Zombicide&lt;/strong&gt;, when spawning zombies inside buildings when a player opens a door, what do we do when we draw a &quot;special card&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;special card&quot; I mean &quot;additional activation of zombies&quot;, &quot;sewer spawn&quot;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the player's turn, one of them opens a door.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In one room they draw an &quot;additional activation of runners&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the runners be activated in the player's turn? Or do we discard this card and draw another? Or does nothing spawn in that room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3684" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T20:03:54.307" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T20:03:54.307" Title="Spawning from special zombie cards inside buildings" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10780" CreationDate="2013-01-14T12:43:32.047" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, zombies of that type get an immediate activation. Do not discard that card and draw another, do whatever is on the card. Nothing will spawn in room/zone of the corresponding &amp;quot;special&amp;quot; card. This is covered in the first page of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://guillotinegames.com/dl/zomb_faq_1.0_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: When spawning the Zones of a building I just opened, what happens if I draw an extra activation or manhole card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Always do exactly what the card says no matter when you draw it. If you draw an extra activation card, that Zombie type receives an extra activation immediately. If tou draw a manhole card, spawn Zombies in the manholes normally. in these cases, the building Zone for which the card was originally drawn receives no Zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also repeated at the bottom of page 10 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://guillotinegames.com/dl/zombicide_rulebook_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, just above the &lt;strong&gt;so many zombies, so few miniatures&lt;/strong&gt; sidebar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two special cases: the “extra activation” cards and the “manhole” cards. In both cases, no Zombies appear on the designated Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T12:53:08.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10786" CreationDate="2013-01-14T15:34:37.767" Score="7" ViewCount="5999" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have quite a few cards that have the ability to create creature tokens when they're played or their ability is activated.  The only problem is I don't have the specific token for each one, but I have a handful of other creature tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I substitute creature token Y for creature token X? For example, if the ability allows creating two 2/2 Black Zombies, but I don't have any Black Zombie tokens, could I use, say, a Green Wolf and a White Human to substitute as placeholders?  I don't see why not since the tokens are pretty much empty objects that are filled in whenever they're brought into battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4763" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T16:40:03.713" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T18:50:57.833" Title="Can a creature token represent a different creature token?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10782" CreationDate="2013-01-14T15:43:07.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to use those pre-printed tokens, they are only a convenience. You can use a scrap of paper with the stats written on it, an upside down magic card, anything at all really. It only gets complicated if you have multiple different types of tokens in play at once, then you will want to make sure you can distinguish them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a normal pack of playing cards, with each suit being a different type, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start generating large number of tokens (eg more than 5) its probably easiest to use a small piece of paper with a name written on it and a dice to show how many of those tokens there are. Then if you attack with some of them, make a new card with the same name with a dice and use one to represent tapped and one untapped tokens of that name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T15:55:44.623" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T15:55:44.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10782" CreationDate="2013-01-14T15:43:39.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use anything to represent a token. As long as it is clear to both players what the token actually represents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, using a token of a different type can be confusing. Instead of using a different token I have seen the following used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;face down card from a different deck (as long as this wont be confused with morph)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;empty card sleeve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;scraps of paper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T15:43:39.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10782" CreationDate="2013-01-14T16:28:06.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use whatever physical object you want to represent a token, including actual MtG cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only conditions are that it has to be clear which object represents which token, and that each object can be tapped, i.e. you have to be able to tell whether a token is tapped or untapped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you must also avoid confusion with real cards, so you best don't use a card as a token if the same card also appears in your or your opponent's deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T16:28:06.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10782" CreationDate="2013-01-14T16:31:14.723" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can represent your tokens however you want with &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;coins &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dice &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sleeves &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deckboxes &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your smartphone, etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have different types of tokens, I normally put them face down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are some things to be careful of however. (mostly applies to competitive scenarios)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have many of the same token, Avoid using dice to represent the quantity.  If you do this, you'll have issues differentiating tapped tokens from untapped, and tokens with summoning sickness from tokens without.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a card produces a token, avoid turning that card face-down for your token.  If that card is in your graveyard, your graveyard is where it belongs.  find another object to  represent your token with.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To Summarize:&lt;/strong&gt;  You can represent your tokens in whatever manner you want, so long as they're clearly and accurately represented.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T16:31:14.723" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-14T17:23:36.117" Score="5" ViewCount="6051" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have 4 of a card in my 60 card deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my odds of drawing at least 1 of that card in my initial 7 card hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I discard those 7, what are the odds of drawing 1 of the 4 in another 7 card draw?  (I guess you could think of a Wheel of Fortune type situation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4764" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T18:54:27.153" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T19:13:56.223" Title="What are the odds of drawing a given card after discarding my initial hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|probability|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10798" CreationDate="2013-01-14T18:24:00.263" Score="5" ViewCount="2933" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about the second edition, if it makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Supply section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player is never allowed to take any action in the game that would&#xA;  cause him to exceed his actual supply limit as dictated by his&#xA;  position on the Supply track (such as mustering, marching or&#xA;  retreating, all explained later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Mustering section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may never muster a unit that would create or  expand an army&#xA;  beyond his actual supply limit. In other words,  if mustering a new&#xA;  unit would cause a player to have more (or  larger) armies than&#xA;  allowed by his position on the Supply track,  that unit cannot be&#xA;  mustered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Combat/Retreat section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may not retreat his defending units to an area containing&#xA;  friendly units if this would cause him to exceed his Supply limit. If&#xA;  a player’s only option is to retreat to such an area, he must first&#xA;  destroy as many retreating units as necessary to be compliant with his&#xA;  Supply limit after retreating to the area. After taking such losses,&#xA;  he may retreat the remaining units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this all seems pretty cut and dry to me that I can't have more units in a region than would be allowed by supply unless I'm forced to by some situation, in which case I must immediately kill off units until I'm under the supply limit again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'll ask my question anyway, which is: Since the game allows for scenarios in which you must kill units due to supply constraints, is there anything that suggests I can just simply sacrifice units? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if I wanted to turn an army of four (region A) into an army of three to allow an army of four to form elsewhere on the board (region B) I currently have to march one unit out of A to somewhere else and march a new unit into B; compare this to simply taking footman off the board from A and using a march to reinforce B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T04:25:31.403" Title="Can I voluntarily kill my own units?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2013-01-14T18:24:44.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conservatively, the idea would be to have at least 3 trump with one of the top 3 being in that group though I have played lots of times where I'd have 2 trump with one of the top 3 and an off-suit Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will play a much more aggressive style though there are a few variations to keep in mind as some people will play a stick the dealer rule and there can be variations when ordering up one's partner as to whether or not that triggers a lone hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3318" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T18:24:44.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10787" CreationDate="2013-01-14T18:26:27.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, the answer to the first part of your question &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kibble.net/magic/magic10.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;is here&lt;/a&gt;, and describes to some degree what a hypergeometric distribution is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first part of your question, your odds are about 39.95% of drawing a particular card in your opening 7 card hand given 4 in a 60 card pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in a situation where you draw 7 then draw 7 more without replacement, you are effectively drawing 14 cards instead, then your probability changes to 66.53%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastEditorUserId="1583" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T12:56:00.913" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T12:56:00.913" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10787" CreationDate="2013-01-14T18:35:55.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chance of drawing the card will be &lt;code&gt;1 - (chance of not drawing)&lt;/code&gt;. I know that sounds silly, but bear with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get to draw 7 cards. The chance of avoiding it on your first draw is &lt;code&gt;56 / 60&lt;/code&gt; because there's 56 cards that are not that card. The next card is a chance &lt;code&gt;55 / 59&lt;/code&gt;. This carries on for 7 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;56 * 55 * 54 * 53 * 52 * 51 * 50&#xA;--------------------------------&#xA;60 * 59 * 58 * 57 * 56 * 55 * 54&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cancel out some of those values (56, 55, 54)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;53 * 52 * 51 * 50    7,027,800   &#xA;----------------- = ---------- = .6005&#xA;60 * 59 * 58 * 57   11,703,240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's a 60.05% chance of NOT getting the card on the first go. That means there's a 39.95% chance of getting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can carry this out to 14 cards to represent your wheel. As in the last one, we can keep the 60, 59, 58, and 57 on the bottom, and the last four on top (46, 45, 44, 43). The rest will cancel out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;46 * 45 * 44 * 43 = 3,916,440&#xA;----------------- = ---------- = .3346&#xA;60 * 59 * 58 * 57   11,703,240&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have a 33.46% chance of avoiding your target card, which means a 66.54 chance of getting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T18:35:55.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2013-01-14T19:13:47.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just play the game a lot and you'll learn when to bid and when not to.  I find euchre to have a fairly small amount of strategy to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general  If you have 3 trump and one of them is A or better, then you can feel free to bid. If you have some off-trump Aces, than that's a good sign and you should bid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have to consider what card you might be giving to the dealer, you don't want to be giving an opponent the right unless you believe that you will win 3 out of the 4 other tricks.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going alone is all about game control.  When deciding about whether or not to go alone, You have to consider how much control that you'll have over the game, and you have to consider what can take your control away.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for instance, if you get to go first and you have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;right Ace King of trump and two off-aces, than you can try to draw the left out with your right, and if you do, than nothing can stop you from winning all the tricks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-01-14T19:13:47.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10793" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10794" CreationDate="2013-01-14T21:28:02.803" Score="7" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked over the Gatherer rulings and it didn't mention anything about it, nor does it mention permanents on the card or in the rulings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I wanted to know if I could use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86ther%20Vial&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;ther Vial&lt;/a&gt; to summon any artifact from my hand with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=March%20of%20the%20Machines&quot;&gt;March of the Machines&lt;/a&gt; in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4766" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T22:16:42.980" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T17:39:37.317" Title="Does March of the Machines make artifacts in hand creatures as well?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10793" CreationDate="2013-01-14T21:50:31.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;On any given card, a card that specifies a permanent type without explicitly saying 'card' only affects permanents in play (unless otherwise specified by the card).  If you have an artifact card in your hand, it is exactly that - an artifact card, and not an 'artifact'... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.2.&lt;/strong&gt; If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Object&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2019-09-02T17:39:37.317" LastActivityDate="2019-09-02T17:39:37.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10813" CreationDate="2013-01-14T23:40:28.617" Score="7" ViewCount="14792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple of scenarios that my friends and I always fight about when we play Axis and Allies Spring 1942 edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit(s) is loaded onto a transport that has not moved yet, then the player moves the transport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves one space, then picks up a unit and moves another space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport &quot;bridges&quot; a unit(s) then moves a space or two.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves one space and then bridges a unit(s).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves two spaces and then bridges a unit(s).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves into a sea space where an enemy has a submerged submarine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple bridges are possible (such as in the bay north of Germany or sea space to the left of said space):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport bridges unit(s), after battle proceeds bridges unit(s) again to a different country (this is complying with the rule that says you can only attack a country once a turn).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last rule that does not involve transports moving or bridging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An airplane (usually a bomber) comes from the land and bombs an unguarded transport and kills it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have looked at the rulebook countless times and it is pretty vague on some issues. I'm not saying that the rulebook doesn't answer any of our questions, but we certainly can't find any of our answers. Thanks for reading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2863" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-14T23:51:28.283" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T09:08:14.533" Title="How does transport movement work?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10787" CreationDate="2013-01-15T02:30:03.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no one has provided the correct answer, at least not they current way you have it worded, I will take a stab at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are my odds of drawing at least 1 of that card in my initial 7 card hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: 1-Hypergeometric Distribution(population=60,successes in population=4,sample size=7,successes in sample=0) = 1 - .600500 = &lt;strong&gt;39.95%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone got this right. I personally like &lt;strong&gt;corsiKa&lt;/strong&gt;'s answer, because if your aren't interested in drawing at least 1 success then it is easier to do the calculation (especially by hand) by figuring the odds of not drawing any cards and subtracting from 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I discard those 7, what are the odds of drawing 1 of the 4 in another 7 card draw? (I guess you could think of a Wheel of Fortune type situation)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where everyone mucks it up. First realize that this question is fundamentally different than any of the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds of drawing at least 1 of the 4 in 14 cards? &lt;strong&gt;66.54%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds of drawing at exactly 1 of the 4 in 14 cards? &lt;strong&gt;43.58%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After discarding 7 cards that aren't successes, What are the odds of drawing exactly 1 of the 4 in 7 more cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the odds of drawing at least 1 of the 4 in 7 cards, with two chances? (This is what I thought you saying originally. You wanted to know how unlikely you were to miss, then mulligan shuffling the cards back into the deck, and then missing again) 1 - (.6005 * .6005) = &lt;strong&gt;63.94%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you actually asked for was the bolded question above. So, what that means is that at that moment, you have removed 7 cards from the deck that weren't successes, leaving you 53 cards. The odds of drawing exactly 1 card can easily be found, HGD(53,4,7,1) = 36.29% or of getting at least 1 is (1 - HGD(53,4,7,0) = 44.27%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now that you have finally clarified what it is that you want.&lt;/strong&gt; The answer that you seek is above. It is the last answer, which is = all possibilities - (chance of missing first 7 cards * chance of missing again after replacement) = 1 - (.6005 * .6005) = &lt;strong&gt;63.94%&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you either multiply probabilities (when determining how likely two independent events will occur in a row), or add them together (when determining if either of two mutually exclusive events will occur). As for when to &amp;quot;add&amp;quot; these probabilities together and when to &amp;quot;multiply&amp;quot; them, &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20180128082325/http://mathforum.org/library/drmath/view/56503.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;it is very difficult to know when to do which&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your above question, you might realize that there are 4 independent mutually exclusive events for drawing 7 cards, replacing those 7 cards, shuffling and drawing 7 cards again. From the answer from the first question, you know that you have about a 40% chance of drawing at least one copy, and a 60% chance of drawing zero copies. (0.60 + 0.40 = 1 these mutually exclusive events equal 100%, so that makes sense)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miss twice in a row. (0.6 * 0.6) = 0.36&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miss the first time, succeed the second. (0.6 * 0.4) = 0.24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Succeed the first time, fail the second. (0.4 * 0.6) = 0.24&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Succeed twice in a row. = . (0.4 * 0.4) = 0.16&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first and second (draw 7 cards and see if you succeed) events are independent of each other, because you are replacing the cards you drew back into the deck. Neither event has any effect on the results of the other, so you can multiply the first and second events together to see how likely it is to get a particular result twice in a row. Finally, because you are interested in the chances of succeeding at least once, you can either add all the mutually exclusive results above that succeed one or more times, or just subtract 1 from the chance of missing twice. (realizing that those two values should be the same)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-09-13T19:13:56.223" LastActivityDate="2022-09-13T19:13:56.223" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10788" CreationDate="2013-01-15T04:25:31.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Nowhere do the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; mention being able to voluntarily remove units from the board. You can do a text search to verify this yourself (destroy, remove, sacrifice, voluntary, etc. do not show any meaningful results). The default for board game rules is, &lt;strong&gt;anything not permitted is forbidden&lt;/strong&gt; (since it is quite impossible to do the converse)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T04:25:31.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8244" CreationDate="2013-01-15T05:30:59.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It only gives 4 points for being unique.&lt;/strong&gt; Unfortunately, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zoch-verlag.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Spielregeln/Huehnerregeln/GloriaPicktoria/SR-GloriaPicktoria-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English version&lt;/a&gt; of the rules dropped the nice scoring example in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zoch-verlag.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Spielregeln/Huehnerregeln/GloriaPicktoria/SR-Gloria-dt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German version&lt;/a&gt; of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ronja: 8 Punkte&lt;/strong&gt; - Niemand außer Ronja besitzt Masken. Das bringt ihr 4 Punkte ein. Bei den Statuen geht sie - wie Max - leer aus. Auch bei den Zahnketten bekommt sie keine Punkte, denn Max und Lea besitzen mehr davon. 4 Punkte bringt Ronja ihre konkurrenzlose Hutsammlung.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly, this translates to. Ronja 8 points. No one but Ronja owns Masks. That brings her 4 points. As with Max, the statues score her nothing. Also, for the necklaces she scores no points, because Max and Lea have more of them. 4 points for Ronja's unrivaled collection of hats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is clear from the images in the rulebook, that Ronja is the only player with Dark Green Mask cards, and Yellow Hat cards. Since she only scored 4 + 4 = 8 for her two unique collections, you don't score those sets for longest of that type as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-15T11:24:23.320" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T11:24:23.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10818" CreationDate="2013-01-15T13:44:28.623" Score="11" ViewCount="1244" Body="&lt;p&gt;This morning my Facebook friends are up in arms about a proposed re-valuation of Scrabble tiles in line with letter frequency in modern language usage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-20984707&quot;&gt;Scrabble: Should letter values change?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of them (admittedly they are mostly more casual gamers than me!) are united in the opinion that any normalisation of the tile values would be tampering with, and probably even breaking, something that isn't broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My own viewpoint is that the only real consequence of such a change would be to reduce the swinginess inherent in the game from, e.g. drawing and scoring big points from the Z.  I want to know whether it would be fair of me to tell my friends, &quot;well, by all means argue for keeping the tile values as they are, but be aware that what you're arguing for is keeping the ratio of skill to luck in the game weighted towards luck&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course perhaps it's me that's missing the point, and there would be unforeseen negative consequences to gameplay and fun from reassigning the letters with &quot;fairer&quot; values.  Can anyone think of any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T11:43:16.600" Title="Would changing the value of Scrabble tiles have a negative effect on the game?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2013-01-15T14:12:06.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The article says that the changing dictionary has changed the values of letters, and this seems like a very good point. For example, the existence of a single word, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/ZA?s=t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZA&lt;/a&gt;, listed as entering the language in the mid-late 60s, makes the Z much easier to play. (I wish I had an old dictionary to figure out when the even-more-important QI entered English dictionaries!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there already exists a &quot;Scrabble-inspired&quot; game with different tile values, of course: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8988/how-is-words-with-friends-different-from-scrabble&quot;&gt;Words With Friends&lt;/a&gt;. (That game seems to have made their letter value choices based on different guidelines than the article; for instance, its &lt;a href=&quot;http://ravensgift.com/words-with-friends-faq-and-letter-distributions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;G is still more valuable than an M&lt;/a&gt;.) Players who are good at Scrabble are still good at Words with Friends; I would not expect to see any differences in win percentages below the master level of play. Ultimately, your luck in your tiles' value is largely outweighed by your luck in drawing tiles that go well together; a good blend of consonants and vowels, for instance, and plenty of the powerful S (which would be the best tile to draw even if it were worth 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T14:12:06.923" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9712" CreationDate="2013-01-15T21:08:02.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short terms, no. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the honest movement takes you out of the guard's line of sight, you may then take the last one or two steps (since you are only walking) in your preferred direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In longer terms: I've interpreted the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/mfg-shop3/rules/MFG4117-Rules-V1_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; literally. It says on page 3 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are caught by the guard, you are required to walk (not run) in the direction of your cell by the most direct route, &lt;strong&gt;as long as you are visible to the guard&lt;/strong&gt;. Flip your novice status card over to &quot;caught&quot; as a reminder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T21:08:02.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10812" CreationDate="2013-01-15T21:53:57.233" Score="3" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Roll Through The Ages, there are two game-end conditions: all monuments have been built (collectively among all players), or any player has purchased 5 developments. I've played this game about five times, so I'm still pretty new to this. I usually play to build cities first, and then end on monuments and developments more-or-less simultaneously, but I wonder: &lt;strong&gt;If you're trying to finish the game very quickly on developments (while your opponents are still building up their cities), is it better to just try to buy a development every turn, or should you aim to build a city or two on the way there?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T04:49:16.577" Title="When trying to quickly end the game, is it better to skip building cities?" Tags="|roll-through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6375" CreationDate="2013-01-15T22:50:46.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a &quot;Button Men Online&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20111213013341/http://www.buttonmen.dhs.org/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; until recently that had amassed HUGE quantities of statistics on different Button Men competing (albeit being controlled by people users on the site). If you could get a hold of that data, that might answer your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've messaged @cheapassjames &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/sveinns/status/291302983872958464&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on twitter&lt;/a&gt;, he might have the data. Possibly, you could contact the site creator, Dana Huyler (but the email dana_huyler@yahoo.com seems to be out of order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T22:50:46.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9766" CreationDate="2013-01-15T23:10:21.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/7649113#7649113&quot;&gt;this post at BGG&lt;/a&gt;, the rules changes are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unit counts - each house has 5 knights and 2 siege engines, instead&#xA;of 4 knights and 3 siege engines.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setup changed to include various neutral forces tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wildling Attack cards added.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Garrison token of 2 for each house's starting position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play to 7 castles regardless of player count.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wildling threat of 12 triggers an attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Messenger raven allows you to look at the top card in the Wildling Attack deck (OR replace an order).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raiding a Consolidate Power order makes the target lose a power token (in addition to the raiding house gaining a token).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When playing your 7th house card, you get the other 6 cards back, but not that last one played.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special raid order can remove a defense order, but NOT 2 orders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special consolidate power order can muster units OR gain power tokens as usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 player game is played without Tyrell (instead of without Greyjoy).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tides of battle cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-15T23:10:21.257" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10810" CreationDate="2013-01-16T00:22:15.173" Score="10" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2651/power-grid&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt; a player can choose to save resources to power fewer houses, however are players allowed to build more houses than their total power plant capacity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose the total number of houses I am theoretically able to power with my current power plants is 5 (assuming that I have the correct resources and choose to power all of my plants), can I build a 6th house?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T14:14:22.943" Title="Can I build more houses than I have the capacity to power?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10809" CreationDate="2013-01-16T01:14:30.133" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your power plant capacity has no bearing on the size of your network. So you can build as many houses as you can afford. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may connect to any number of new cities in a round, as long&#xA;  as he can pay the building and connecting costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it's probably a bad idea to build a network substantially larger than you can power. Balancing power plants, resources and network size is the key to the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T01:14:30.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4823" CreationDate="2013-01-16T04:19:10.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to MICS, all opening 2 bids are intermediate/preemptive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2C = 10-16 4441, 4450 or 4432&#xA;2D = 14-16 5+,4+ in Minors&#xA;2H = 10-16 5+ Hearts and 4+ in Clubs&#xA;2S = 10-16 5+ Spades and 4+ Clubs&#xA;2NT = 10-13 5+,5+ in Minors&#xA;1NT = 13+ thru 16- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4774" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T04:19:10.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10805" CreationDate="2013-01-16T04:49:16.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to rush the game - which is certainly a valid strategy if your early rolls force you in that direction - &lt;strong&gt;just buy developments whenever you can.&lt;/strong&gt; If you have fewer cities, every turn you spend playing catch-up is a turn your opponents with more cities can buy either more-expensive (and more VP) developments or monuments. You're trying to dash across the finish line before they can reap the benefits of their well-developed engines. You won't be able to make much use of your developments, so just get what you can afford and gives you points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage of this is that if you are threatening the end of the game, say with 4 developments, your opponents will have trouble committing to the big, efficient monuments (that aren't worth anything if incomplete) and will have to settle for the smaller ones that are worth fewer points per worker. This is particularly troublesome for them if you're later in the turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you or your friends finds that a rush strategy makes the game too short, you may prefer the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rollthroughtheages.com/latebronzeage.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Late Bronze Age variant&lt;/a&gt; that user1873 alluded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T04:49:16.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10796" CreationDate="2013-01-16T08:17:08.513" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;True, there are so many scenarios that the rulebook doesn't specifically cover&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most of the points you ask are specified in the rulebook. Taking this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/%5CAvalonHill%5Crules%5CAxAl-AnEd_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (Anniversary: compliance with spring 1942 edition) for instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A transport can move between one or two spaces that do not contain an enemy surface ship during combat or non combat phases.  It can load and offload units into free cargo slots before, before or after any of the previous. However load and offload procedures cannot iterate (you can't offload units first and then load). Offloading units ends the transport's actions: If you begin by offloading units of a transport (loaded in previous rounds) then the transport will not move nor load after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other rules apply for a transport engaged in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A unit(s) is loaded onto a transport that has not moved yet, then the player moves the transport&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the transport did not participate in any combat this round, it can be moved, loaded if it has any valid free space and offloaded. It cannot iterate load and offload.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A transport moves one space, then picks up a unit and moves another&#xA;  space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is valid as long as the first move does not put the transport in a seazone containing enemy surface units (thus putting it in combat)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A transport moves one space and then bridges a unit(s).&#xA;  A transport moves two spaces and then bridges a unit(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If bridging means moving land units between adjacent territories in a seazone, it is valid. The transport has: moved (one or two spaces), loaded and offloaded (one or two units).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If between move and load/offload the transport moves to an area with enemy surface units, then the sea combat must be resolved first (amphibious attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that no unit can move to any other territory containing enemy troops during non-combat move phase, except for submarines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A transport moves into a sea space where an enemy has a submerged&#xA;  submarine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be done either in combat move and non-combat move. If done during combat, and you move along a destroyer you CAN choose to engage or not engage the enemy submarines. If you choose to, the transports take part in the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A transport bridges unit(s), after battle proceeds bridges unit(s)&#xA;  again to a different country (this is complying with the rule that&#xA;  says you can only attack a country once a turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, for two reasons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Transports that engaged in combat cannot do anything else after (move, load offload).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After offload, the transport actions end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An airplane (usually a bomber) comes from the land and bombs an&#xA;  unguarded transport and kills it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the question is: &quot;Can the transport be destroyed?&quot; the answer is: yes. It is automatically destroyed during combat resolve phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest you install &lt;a href=&quot;http://triplea.sourceforge.net/mywiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tripleA&lt;/a&gt;. It is an open source game that can implement A&amp;amp;A ruleset and its different maps; the rules there comply pretty well with the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This were many questions packed in one.. :/ I'll later add the pages references to each sub-answer, or I would welcome anyone editing to add that info.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="17851" LastEditDate="2018-05-18T09:08:14.533" LastActivityDate="2018-05-18T09:08:14.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10809" CreationDate="2013-01-16T14:14:22.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power Grid is a push and pull game. In some rounds, you grab a new station, and find yourself short on money for resources and houses. This may also mean that the next round, you will face lousy prices for both of these, too. In other rounds, you may have received a nice cash flow from those new power stations, and can indulge into the new houses as you don't need to spend another 20-30 coins on a new station for a couple of rounds, and can concentrate on the network or getting more resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, it may be a good idea to stash some money and be the first one to break into Phase II and build the best second houses with no connection fees. This means you would need to have some 50 free coins to do that, so you may have to plan for it by building the power station capacity beyond 7, and bunking extra coal to fire up as many houses as you could -- basically, only buy houses on that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T14:14:22.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8988" CreationDate="2013-01-16T15:46:43.163" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tile distribution is different, as are the tile values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;strong&gt;        Scrabble     WWF&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Letter  (#, Value)  (#,Value)&#xA;A       (9,1)       (9,1)&#xA;B       (2,3)       (2,4)&#xA;C       (2,3)       (2,4)&#xA;D       (4,2)       (5,2)&#xA;E       (12,1)      (13,1)&#xA;F       (2,4)       (2,4)&#xA;G       (3,2)       (3,3)&#xA;H       (2,4)       (4,3)&#xA;I       (9,1)       (8,1)&#xA;J       (1,8)       (1,10)&#xA;K       (1,5)       (1,5)&#xA;L       (4,1)       (4,2)&#xA;M       (2,3)       (2,4)&#xA;N       (6,1)       (5,2)&#xA;O       (8,1)       (8,1)&#xA;P       (2,3)       (2,4)&#xA;Q       (1,10)      (1,10)&#xA;R       (6,1)       (6,1)&#xA;S       (4,1)       (5,1)&#xA;T       (6,1)       (7,1)&#xA;U       (4,1)       (4,2)&#xA;V       (2,4)       (2,5)&#xA;W       (2,4)       (2,4)&#xA;X       (1,8)       (1,8)&#xA;Y       (2,4)       (2,3)&#xA;Z       (1,10)      (1,10)&#xA;Blank   (2,0)       (2,0)&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-01T15:12:59.857" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T15:12:59.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10817" CreationDate="2013-01-16T16:43:53.883" Score="5" ViewCount="246" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mistform Dreamer&lt;/a&gt; says I can turn it into any creature type until the end of turn, could I turn it into a shrine for use with any of the Hondens? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3755" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T19:08:27.807" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T19:08:27.807" Title="Could I turn Mistform Dreamer into a Shrine?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10816" CreationDate="2013-01-16T17:01:42.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Alas, &lt;strong&gt;Shrine&lt;/strong&gt; isn't a creature type, it's an enchantment type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.3h Enchantments have their own unique set of subtypes; these subtypes are called enchantment types. The enchantment types are Aura (see rule 303.4), Curse, and Shrine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.3m Creatures and tribals share their lists of subtypes; these subtypes are called creature types. The creature types are Advisor, Ally, Angel, Anteater, Antelope, Ape, Archer, Archon, Artificer, Assassin, Assembly-Worker, Atog, Aurochs, Avatar, Badger, Barbarian, Basilisk, Bat, Bear, Beast, Beeble, Berserker, Bird, Blinkmoth, Boar, Bringer, Brushwagg, Camarid, Camel, Caribou, Carrier, Cat, Centaur, Cephalid, Chimera, Citizen, Cleric, Cockatrice, Construct, Coward, Crab, Crocodile, Cyclops, Dauthi, Demon, Deserter, Devil, Djinn, Dragon, Drake, Dreadnought, Drone, Druid, Dryad, Dwarf, Efreet, Elder, Eldrazi, Elemental, Elephant, Elf, Elk, Eye, Faerie, Ferret, Fish, Flagbearer, Fox, Frog, Fungus, Gargoyle, Germ, Giant, Gnome, Goat, Goblin, Golem, Gorgon, Graveborn, Gremlin, Griffin, Hag, Harpy, Hellion, Hippo, Hippogriff, Homarid, Homunculus, Horror, Horse, Hound, Human, Hydra, Hyena, Illusion, Imp, Incarnation, Insect, Jellyfish, Juggernaut, Kavu, Kirin, Kithkin, Knight, Kobold, Kor, Kraken, Lammasu, Leech, Leviathan, Lhurgoyf, Licid, Lizard, Manticore, Masticore, Mercenary, Merfolk, Metathran, Minion, Minotaur, Monger, Mongoose, Monk, Moonfolk, Mutant, Myr, Mystic, Nautilus, Nephilim, Nightmare, Nightstalker, Ninja, Noggle, Nomad, Octopus, Ogre, Ooze, Orb, Orc, Orgg, Ouphe, Ox, Oyster, Pegasus, Pentavite, Pest, Phelddagrif, Phoenix, Pincher, Pirate, Plant, Praetor, Prism, Rabbit, Rat, Rebel, Reflection, Rhino, Rigger, Rogue, Salamander, Samurai, Sand, Saproling, Satyr, Scarecrow, Scorpion, Scout, Serf, Serpent, Shade, Shaman, Shapeshifter, Sheep, Siren, Skeleton, Slith, Sliver, Slug, Snake, Soldier, Soltari, Spawn, Specter, Spellshaper, Sphinx, Spider, Spike, Spirit, Splinter, Sponge, Squid, Squirrel, Starfish, Surrakar, Survivor, Tetravite, Thalakos, Thopter, Thrull, Treefolk, Triskelavite, Troll, Turtle, Unicorn, Vampire, Vedalken, Viashino, Volver, Wall, Warrior, Weird, Werewolf, Whale, Wizard, Wolf, Wolverine, Wombat, Worm, Wraith, Wurm, Yeti, Zombie, and Zubera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T17:01:42.893" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2013-01-16T17:10:22.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The changing dictionary, especially with regards to the 2-letter words (notably &lt;code&gt;ZA&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;QI&lt;/code&gt;), certainly influences what a &quot;good&quot; scoring of the tiles would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A situation to consider is &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;U&lt;/code&gt;. If you have 3 &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; tiles, you can play &lt;code&gt;AA&lt;/code&gt;, usually for 8+ points because you can put them in front of a wide variety of high-value consonants (&lt;code&gt;BDFHKMPZ&lt;/code&gt;), and quickly rebalance your rack. If you have 3 &lt;code&gt;U&lt;/code&gt; tiles... good luck. Maybe you can play &lt;code&gt;ULU&lt;/code&gt; for 3 if you're lucky. It's probably not correct to have &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;U&lt;/code&gt; both be worth 1 point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that surprised me in their proposed scoring was the reduction in the value of &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt;. Like &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; is not in any 2-letter words in the North American dictionary, and is thus much harder to play for good value in closed-off boards. That might be balanced by its prominence in 7-letter words, but I'm skeptical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like this evaluation was generated from a computer which knows 100% of legal words, which can definitely shift the balance around quite a bit. Dealing with a &lt;code&gt;V&lt;/code&gt; is much easier once you know &lt;code&gt;VAV&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;VAW&lt;/code&gt;, for example, but only enthusiasts know those words. A &quot;human-tuned&quot; set of tile scores is going to be much harder to reason about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I think is worth calling out is status quo bias. If &lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;, which can easily be dumped and often scores huge plays because of its flexibility in XI/XU/AX/OX/EX, were worth 5 points and it was proposed that it go to 8, experienced Scrabble players would probably say &quot;That's idiotic, you're just giving a windfall to whoever draws it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T17:10:22.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10819" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-16T17:48:54.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Questions on collectible card games, &quot;German&quot; style boardgames, traditional boardgames, traditional card games, strategic games, cooperative boardgames or minature wargames&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Questions on other games played around a table by humans. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="1106" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T17:48:54.247" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T17:48:54.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10820" PostTypeId="7" CreationDate="2013-01-16T17:50:03.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Anything not directly related to board or card games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions about role-playing games or puzzles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions about computer games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions that are primarily opinion-based&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Questions with too many possible answers or that would require an extremely long answer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;    &lt;li&gt;Requests for game recommendations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T15:53:14.113" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T15:53:14.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10825" CreationDate="2013-01-16T19:13:07.783" Score="15" ViewCount="3097" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I was playing a casual game and I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stasis&quot;&gt;Stasis&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kismet&quot;&gt;Kismet&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chronatog&quot;&gt;Chronatog&lt;/a&gt;, causing my opponent to have to keep drawing, while I kept skipping my turn, with the intent of decking him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent, however, had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeon%27s%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeon&amp;#39;s Torn&lt;/a&gt; in his deck, and he can discard that every turn he draws it to shuffle his graveyard back into his library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who, ultimately, is required to stop choosing to continue this loop?  Do I have to stop skipping my turn with Chronatog? Or does my opponent have to stop discarding Emrakul?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T20:14:51.437" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T20:25:42.350" Title="Infinite loop where where both players choose to continue the loop" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2013-01-16T19:49:42.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one who doesn't want the game to draw is the one who must decide to stop the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know if a game is in an willing infinite loop (all players choose or are forced to continue it) that does not result in a game win, the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players decide to keep the loop going, then the game is a draw. If both players are okay with that outcome, then that is the outcome. If a player would rather the game not draw, perhaps because he believes he has a chance of winning, then he would make the choice to end the loop. There's no mandate that they both need to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it like a game of chicken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T19:49:42.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8553" CreationDate="2013-01-16T19:58:13.330" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changes to the base game are discussed &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/852358/cah-version-change-to-1-3-new-cards&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. There is also some additional information on this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/779103/new-cards&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; included photos showing old and new versions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the original and version 1.2, it seems like they got rid of a lot of cards that mention proper names. It seems that cards mentioning Glenn Beck have been removed in 1.3. The second post indicates that at least 8 black cards were replaced and 80+ white cards were changed (though some changes seem small) between the version that came out in early 2012 and the previous one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/83028/cards-against-humanity-first-expansion-1-2-changel&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; also has a link to a PDF file (must login) that lists some changes for the first &lt;em&gt;expansion&lt;/em&gt; (v1.2 Changelog). Here is a summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bunch of white cards were added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pluger to the face&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ooze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clenched butt cheeks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stockholm Syndrome&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salvia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Syphilitic insanity&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some white cards removed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Appreciative snapping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dancing with a broom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good grammar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pistol-whipping a hostage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slow motion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Fanta girls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few minor corrections as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bunch of black cards were also modified:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Orig: My plan for world domination begins with _ / New: He who controls _ controls the world&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Orig: Science will never explain the origin _ / New: Science will never explain _&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Orig: Next season on Man vs Wild, Bear Grylls must survive in the depths of the Amazon with only _ and his wits / New: This season on Man vs Wild, Bear Grylls must survive in the depths of the Amazon with only _ and his wits&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3551" LastEditorUserId="3551" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T16:34:22.337" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T16:34:22.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10821" CreationDate="2013-01-16T20:19:02.163" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's make it clear that the game doesn't force a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b [...] Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also make it clear that the two players are individually doing something acceptable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's their combined actions that create a weird scenario, and boy it's a weird one. The closest rules for resolving this are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens, the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from the Infraction Procedure Guide (used in tournaments with a REL above regular),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is also slow play if a player continues to execute a loop without being able to provide an exact number of iterations and the expected resulting game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a casual setting, you should mutually accept a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a competitive setting, I think you'd be at the mercy of a judge. Neither of those is a rules is a perfect match, so a judge should probably do nothing at all, but they're close enough that he might decide to meddle (invoking either or both of those rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter rule was applied to a deck with Emrakul that self-milled. This of course, is a different situation, since both players are involved in extending the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first rule is close enough that it might be enforced. The game state after the second graveyard shuffle is not 100% identical to the game state after the first graveyard shuffle because Chronatog's opponent has a different hand, but a judge might rule that it is close enough to enact 716.3, forcing you to stop Chronatog's opponent from discarding Emrakul. I doubt it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizard's &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/forum/view/75842/134778/Rules_Qamp;A&quot;&gt;Rules Q&amp;amp;A forum&lt;/a&gt; has many judges, including one capable of giving official answers (Natedogg).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T20:37:49.350" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T20:37:49.350" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10829" CreationDate="2013-01-16T21:56:39.373" Score="2" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the largest card size in a board game that's still current (in print sometime in the 21st century)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for cards that are used as &lt;em&gt;cards&lt;/em&gt;, not as placemats.  This means that the cards are used in a deck or a pile containing multiple cards at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A good answer would be in both inches and millimeters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2013-01-16T22:54:14.843" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T15:52:48.763" Title="Largest card size for board games" Tags="|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10826" CreationDate="2013-01-16T23:04:33.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://maydaygames.com/sleeves.pdf&quot;&gt;This PDF&lt;/a&gt; from maydaygames.com contains the sizes of cards for just about every modern game.  It looks like the largest one on there is for Planechase at 89mm x 127mm (3.5&quot; x 5&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T00:47:40.727" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T00:47:40.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6680" CreationDate="2013-01-16T23:05:51.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you would need to know an idle strategy for single player as a baseline (potentially using a variant where you have to keep skulls) since most building games allow you to ignore the other player if you are playing well enough. This makes solo play a great baseline for how to play multiplayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a good algorithm to figure that out, deciding how to handle the other player becomes much more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally having the solo strategy solved allows you to create significantly better baselines for determining when an action would be bad. Since you would know that in single player that move would never be beneficial, you could more quickly put together heuristics for multiplayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-01-16T23:05:51.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10832" CreationDate="2013-01-16T23:43:52.583" Score="4" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;em&gt;Rebel Sneak Attack&lt;/em&gt;, among its other powers, grants the ability to discard itself from the tableau to allow you to place an additional military world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you need to have sufficient military strength to take over the world, or do you get it for zero cost?&lt;/strong&gt; If you need the military, then this card seems like a weaker version of Improved Logistics, for only one lower cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T00:07:30.187" Title="Do you need military power when using the Rebel Sneak Attack to settle an additional military world?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10831" CreationDate="2013-01-16T23:56:12.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still need to have sufficient military power to place the world. Nothing about the placement text implies that ordinary requirements are suspended. Indeed, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/535171/can-you-takeover-then-rebel-sneak-attack-a-militar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game designer says&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes. And, just like IL doing a normal Settle after a declared&#xA;  takeover, the player doing this declares this additional settlement&#xA;  during their powers and payment step, &lt;strong&gt;discards RSA, pumps Military if&#xA;  needed, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;, and then delays the resolution of this additional&#xA;  settlement until the pending takeover is resolved. If the declared&#xA;  takeover fails, then the RSA additional placement is lost, RSA is&#xA;  still used up, etc., with the world itself then being returned to its&#xA;  owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exactly the same restrictions as IL after a takeover apply to an RSA&#xA;  additional settlement after a takeover, along with the additional&#xA;  restrictions noted on the RSA power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your Improved Logistics comment: Improved Logistics is a bit of an aberration - it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/455124/improved-logistics-broken-card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;really, really good&lt;/a&gt;. But this card allows takeovers, which is a two card swing (from them to you), which you seem to be discounting. Also, consider that Rebel Sneak Attack would be &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; powerful if it allowed placement of any military world for free (think high value Rebel Homeworld, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T00:07:30.187" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T00:07:30.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10834" CreationDate="2013-01-17T00:33:01.537" Score="11" ViewCount="2860" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if at the beginning of my turn I have no Beans left in my hand to plant because I traded them all away on other people's turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4778" LastEditorUserId="4778" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T22:40:30.413" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T22:40:30.413" Title="What happens if you run out of Beans?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10833" CreationDate="2013-01-17T03:50:08.163" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_36_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Rio Grand Games&lt;/a&gt;  rules cover this eventuality (page 4) the last sentence under &lt;strong&gt;Plant Bean Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Active Player has no cards in hand, he omits this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no access to the Amigo Games version, or the German version of the rules. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamecabinet.com/rules/Bohnanza3.html&quot;&gt;The Game Cabinet&lt;/a&gt; site does have a translation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing Bean Cards&lt;/strong&gt; - You must play the first card dealt to you on to one of your fields, &lt;strong&gt;unless you hold no cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just skip the first step, since you are unable to fulfill the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T04:02:33.220" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T04:02:33.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-17T10:38:10.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this answer anecdotally at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/11910615724/10152423066995725/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;my gaming club&lt;/a&gt; (sorry about the facebook link, I'll post the discussion here when it halts or reaches a conclusion): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a port-strike your subs are automatic involved in a minor port. You cannot choose to be non-included in port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No reference, but at least it's a ruling of some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastEditorUserId="4772" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T10:44:36.973" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T10:44:36.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11209" CreationDate="2013-01-17T15:48:25.413" Score="8" ViewCount="13371" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anything I figure out I will X out in the list of things I need. Solution will be at the bottom section named &quot;RESULTS&quot;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been searching the Googles for a bit now, but I'm not able to find any (english) information on it. I'm planning on making my own board since I am in Mexico, and I can't find anyone selling a Shogi board around here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any answer that contains the details of your Shogi set is enough. Just remember, it has to be a genuine Japanese Shogi set, not plastic or anything like that. Basically if you could get these measurements from your personal Shogi set, I would really appreciate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the standard measurements for a Shogi board?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X Width (from black's perspective, left to right of board)&#xA;X Length (from black's perspective, top to bottom of board)&#xA;X Height (of entire board)&#xA;- Size of each square/space (where the piece will be put)&#xA;  - Width (from black's perspective, left to right of space)&#xA;  - Length (from black's perspective, top to bottom of space)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's for the board, now I need for the individual pieces as follows, of course we're talking about if the piece was &quot;standing up&quot; in front of us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;X Height&#xA;X Width (widest point, bottom)&#xA;X Thickness (the whole piece)&#xA;X Degree angles&#xA;  X The angle from the bottom to the top (81 is the angle I believe)&#xA;  X The angle for the little &quot;roof&quot; of the top of the piece&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, of course, these measurements are different from piece to piece, so the sizes are different, unless I put them on the same group, so you only need to find out the sizes of the pieces listed first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x King&#xA;X Rook, Bishop&#xA;X Gold, Silver&#xA;X Knight&#xA;X Lance&#xA;X Pawn&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I would also like the standard size for the komadais, in case there is a standard size. If there isn't, what's the normal average size for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all the measurements that I need in order to be able to make a full set. They should all be provided in mm/cm, because it's the most exact, and the measurement style used in Mexico.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the calligraphy, of course. A full example of all the pieces in the &quot;Kinki-Sho&quot; calligraphy. Basically, an example of the calligraphy, how it should look, so that I can carve it to the wood. No pieces needed, only the calligraphy for each piece on a white background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is all the info I need, if you can provide necessary links I would highly appreciate it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note, the website can be in Japanese, just be sure to provide some kind of translation, or give the info and the link as a reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RESULTS&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the good references that I've found since opening this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sciencechannel.jst.go.jp/B980601/detail/B030601154.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;THE MAKING (１５４）将棋盤ができるまで | サイエンス チャンネル&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/h9zb5udfeWo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to play Shogi(将棋) -Lesson#38- Shogi Board as Arts and Crafts - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/MF00nKgwNVU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to play Shogi(将棋) -Lesson#39- Shogi Pieces as Arts and Crafts - YouTube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tendocci.com/koma/qa.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;駒博士のＱ＆Ａ&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_normal_size_of_shogi_pieces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What is the normal size of shogi pieces&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things I might have figured out since opening this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the sizes, measurements, specifications, angles etc. I have figured out can be found in this private Gist: &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/3763b7d9d5c1d6a4916f&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://gist.github.com/3763b7d9d5c1d6a4916f&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T22:24:26.357" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T16:55:36.577" Title="Specific standard measurements and info necessary for making a standard Shogi set (board and koma)" Tags="|shogi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10796" CreationDate="2013-01-17T18:42:35.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This response is based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Axis-Allies-Spring-1942-compressed.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;. I've searched for &quot;transport&quot; and &quot;offload&quot; to find the relevant sections - but there is quite a lot of text. If you want the specific text to each of the rulings below, I can paste it here on your request, but for now you'll get the quick answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A unit(s) is loaded onto a transport that has not moved yet, then the player moves the transport&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves one space, then picks up a unit and moves another space.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is also ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport &quot;bridges&quot; a unit(s) then moves a space or two.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is not ok. A transport's move ends where it offloads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves one space and then bridges a unit(s).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is ok. It cannot move any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves two spaces and then bridges a unit(s).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is ok. It cannot move any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport moves into a sea space where an enemy has a submerged submarine.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A transport bridges unit(s), after battle proceeds bridges unit(s) again to a different country (this is complying with the rule that says you can only attack a country once a turn).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is not ok. Generally, transports do stuff either in the combat or noncombat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An airplane (usually a bomber) comes from the land and bombs an unguarded transport and kills it.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is ok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T18:42:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-17T19:04:31.533" Score="3" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen people win In The Year Of The Dragon by ignoring the disasters, taking the losses, and simply taking as many scholars as possible to build victory points almost exclusively via the scholar action. How successful is this strategy? Does the layout of disasters matter for this? Are there any other related strategies, such as almost-all-scholars-plus-something-else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T14:19:22.607" Title="When is the right time to do a scholar-only run?" Tags="|in-the-year-of-the-dragon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10839" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10840" CreationDate="2013-01-17T21:18:17.980" Score="4" ViewCount="1905" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I cast a card with Cipher from my graveyard with the help of Flashback (provided by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;). Will I be encoding it on a creature instead of exiling it from the effect of Flashback?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T23:20:20.903" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T23:20:20.903" Title="How do Snapcaster Mage and Cipher cards interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10839" CreationDate="2013-01-17T21:32:53.643" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Cipher will continue to work as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cipher exiles the card it encodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then you may exile this spell card encoded on a creature you control. Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of the encoded card without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant part of Flashback is the following replacement effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flashback does absolutely nothing if you exile a card using Cipher because the card is not put &quot;anywhere [other than exile]&quot; when it leaves the stack. Cipher will continue to work as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you chose not to encode the card, Flashback will cause it to be exiled instead of going to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-17T22:15:38.667" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T22:15:38.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3075" CreationDate="2013-01-17T22:46:01.580" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because Jourdonnais' ability says that you can only block a &quot;BANG!&quot; With two &quot;MISSED&quot; cards Jourdonnais' ability wouldn't even help if you drew a heart. You need &quot;MISSED&quot; cards, a barrel wont block Jourdonnais' ability either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4778" LastActivityDate="2013-01-17T22:46:01.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14694" CreationDate="2013-01-18T01:29:20.260" Score="16" ViewCount="5350" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why are certain Yu-gi-oh! cards abbreviated in unusual and inconsistent ways?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of Yu-gi-oh! cards have unusual, inconsistent abbreviations in their card names that stand out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most notable is the Lord of D.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dLbTU.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lord of D.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card abbreviates the word which is clearly supposed to represent &quot;dragon&quot; without apparent reason for doing so.  The word is definitely not too long to fit - other card names can testify to that.  The word itself is also not taboo - it appears in the names of other cards, as well as in it's own body text in describing a creature type (Dragon-Type, a core creature type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of dragons, another example comes in the form of the Red Eyes B. Dragon.  Here, the word &quot;black&quot; has been abbreviated.  Again, proof that the name wouldn't have been too long otherwise can be seen by comparing it to the Blue Eyes White Dragon, which is slightly longer in its first word and identical in length in the third word in question.  The name &quot;Red-Eyes Black Dragon&quot; is also spoken aloud prominently in the show, as it is a trademark card held by main character Joey Wheeler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the most awkward is the card, &quot;The A. Forces.&quot;  In this particular case, I can not even tell what this letter stands for despite analyzing the context (perhaps its the same word as the one found &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/questions/100439/meaning-of-abbreviated-vulgarity&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;?  Joking, of course, but that would actually give it a reason to be censored!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the reasoning behind this haphazard abbreviating of seemingly random words on these cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:09.400" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T10:04:40.510" Title="Cause of abbreviations on Yu-gi-oh! cards" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2013-01-18T02:27:03.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question! Unfortunately, I don't have a complete answer. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shortened_and_abbreviated_card_names&quot;&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh! Wikia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cards have been released in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Yu-Gi-Oh!_Trading_Card_Game&quot;&gt;TCG&lt;/a&gt; with shortened or abbreviated&#xA;  names. A major reason for this was that the names were too long&#xA;  unabbreviated, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Upper_Deck_Entertainment&quot;&gt;Upper Deck Entertainment&lt;/a&gt; had not yet figured out&#xA;  the smaller card name font for long names, but other reasons include&#xA;  stylistic choices and occasionally because the card name was also&#xA;  abbreviated in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Yu-Gi-Oh!_Official_Card_Game&quot;&gt;OCG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not an entirely satisfactory explanation, particularly for card names such as Lord of D. which as you say, clearly fit on the card. I'm guessing in these cases it's just a somewhat bizarre stylistic choice (it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; anime, after all...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, &quot;The A. Forces&quot; is short for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/The_A._Forces&quot;&gt;The Allied Forces&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T02:27:03.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10846" CreationDate="2013-01-18T08:23:04.853" Score="4" ViewCount="4008" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing against a kid on dueling network and he swore that this play wasn't legal and I pretty much just ended the match to avoid arguing. I know I might be wrong, but here's how it went (basically OTK cause he had no Effect Veilers, Battle Faders &amp;amp; only 2 cards on backrow which he didn't activate): &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my hand I had 2 Galaxy Eyes Photon Dragons. On the field I had Red Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon (I'm going to write REDMD for short) &amp;amp; Lightpulsar Dragon. &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I special summoned Galaxy Eyes Photon Dragon tributing REDMD &amp;amp; Lightpulsar. Since they technically should both go to grave together I special summoned REDMD using Lightpulsar's effect. &lt;br&gt; &#xA;I special summon Lightpulsar using REDMD effect. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Special summon another Galaxy Eyes from hand, again special summon REDMD using Lightpulsar's eff, then special summon Lightpulsar. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Overlay for Heiratic Overlord, detach one, tribute REDMD first (important) &amp;amp; then Lightpulsar to pop his backrow. Lightpulsar effect I special summon REDMD again, REDMD special summon Galaxy Eyes photon &amp;amp; attack for OTK. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T03:29:13.570" Title="Is this play involving Red Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon &amp; Lightpulsar Dragon valid?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2013-01-18T09:29:06.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings%3aLightpulsar_Dragon#cite_note-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulings page for Lightpulsar Dragon&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If &quot;Lightpulsar Dragon&quot; and &quot;Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon&quot; are&#xA;  destroyed on the field simultaneously by the effect of &quot;Dark Hole&quot;,&#xA;  that &quot;Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon&quot; can be Special Summoned from the&#xA;  Graveyard by the effect of &quot;Lightpulsar Dragon&quot;.[6]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that is allegedly a ruling from an official Konami FAQ, though the link to it was broken.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If REDMD and Lightpulsar Dragon are fine to combo in this way then I don't really see the problem with your OTK.  It's not like Lightpulsar Dragon isn't known for featuring in lots of OTK decks... anyone can just google it to see that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T09:29:06.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10849" CreationDate="2013-01-18T14:16:45.183" Score="5" ViewCount="6389" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions about attacking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If I have creatures in play, can I declare an attack and then declare zero of the creatures as attackers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I have no creatures in play, can I declare an attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you would want to, in either case, but it seems like a weird rules case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T15:19:11.540" Title="Attacking with Zero Creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10848" CreationDate="2013-01-18T14:35:06.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every turn has a combat phase (unless some card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fatespinner&quot;&gt;Fatespinner&lt;/a&gt; tells you to skip it). The game proceeds to the combat phase after you're done with the first main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combat phase consists of five steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of combat — this phase is mostly for abilities that trigger at the beginning of combat; in multiplayer, you also choose which players will be &amp;quot;defending,&amp;quot; though you don't have to assign any attackers at this point (then priority passes between players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers — you choose attackers at the beginning of this phase (then priority passes between players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blockers — you choose blockers at the beginning of this phase (then priority passes between players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage — damage is dealt at the beginning of this phase (then priority passes between players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of combat — this phase is for resolving &amp;quot;at end of combat&amp;quot; triggers (then priority passes between players, and we move on to the next phase)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose your attackers during the &amp;quot;declare attackers&amp;quot; step. If you select zero attackers, the game skips the &amp;quot;declare blockers&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;combat damage&amp;quot; steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, you will always get a combat phase, even if you have creatures but choose not to attack, or have no creatures. Any combat in which you don't attack won't include the &amp;quot;declare blockers&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;combat damage&amp;quot; steps, though.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T14:35:06.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10848" CreationDate="2013-01-18T14:38:52.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes to both questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indeed, if played correctly, you have an attack phase every turn, and if you cannot or do not want to declare any attackers, the attack phase would still happen. In practice and in the vast majority of cases, players instead implicitly agree on a shortcut to proceed to the next main phase or to the end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note however that if you declare an attack with zero attacking creatures, that attack will not trigger any abilities like &quot;whenever a creature attacks you&quot;, or &quot;whenever you attack/are attacked&quot; or anything of the sorts. The phase still happens, but no attack happens, even if you explicitly attack with zero creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T14:38:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10848" CreationDate="2013-01-18T15:19:11.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, there is always normally a Combat Phase, regardless of whether you have creatures or not.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't really &quot;declare an attack.&quot; What you are doing is proposing to your opponent that you proceed to the next phase &quot;combat&quot; and leave the current phase by both of you taking no actions while the stack is empty. During the Beginning of Combat step, you can either cast spells (instants usually) that may create new attackers or do nothing, your opponent may cast their own spells possibly to tap your creatures so that they cannot be declared as attackers. After that is the Declare Attackers step. Then and only then is when you actually declare which if any of your creatures (if you have any) are attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.1. The combat phase has five steps, which proceed in order: beginning of combat, declare attackers, declare blockers, combat damage, and end of combat. The declare blockers and combat damage steps are skipped if no creatures are declared as attackers or put on to the battlefield attacking (see rule 508.4). There are two combat damage steps if any attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T15:19:11.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10855" CreationDate="2013-01-18T22:54:24.257" Score="7" ViewCount="2131" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent declares two creatures as attackers. I want to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230076&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Act of Aggression&lt;/a&gt; to gain control of one of their creatures and so I can have it block their other creature. Is this possible? Is so, during what step do I need to play my Act of Aggression? If I played it during my declare blockers step, would the creature that I now controlled still be attacking me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T23:36:26.550" Title="Can I use Act of Aggression to steal their attacking creature and block with it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10856" CreationDate="2013-01-18T22:54:38.597" Score="6" ViewCount="3740" Body="&lt;p&gt;A sneaky runner managed to make his way into my corporate HQ. I let him pick a card at random from my hand (I had no upgrades), and it just happened to be a piece of ICE or an Operation or maybe even an Agenda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the runner have the option of trashing the card? There's no listed trashing cost, so if they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; allowed to trash the card, what does it cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2730" LastEditorUserId="2730" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T23:52:21.143" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T16:23:32.107" Title="Can a runner trash ICE or Operation cards after a run on the HQ?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2013-01-18T23:32:25.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Changing values on tiles will not change the final goal. During the game you will still have to place letters with big values to get lots of points and win the game. The letters will change but not the fact that if they get a high value, placing them will help you to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in English those letters seems to be '&lt;code&gt;Z&lt;/code&gt;', '&lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt;', '&lt;code&gt;X&lt;/code&gt;' and '&lt;code&gt;J&lt;/code&gt;' (referring to Wikipedia, I don't play with the English version) but with the new values it will be other letters. That's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T23:32:25.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10852" CreationDate="2013-01-18T23:33:37.567" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's fine.  You would play the spell during the declare attackers step, after attackers are declared, but before proceeding to the declare blockers step.  Then you are free to declare it as a blocker.  If you wait for your declare blockers step, it's too late to block with the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ordering is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers Starts: &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn Based Action - Attackers are declared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get Priority &amp;lt;- Cast Spell Now! &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers Starts: &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn Based Action - Blockers are declared &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get Priority &amp;lt;- Too late&#xA;to use as blocker if cast now!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time a creature changes controllers, it is automatically removed from combat, so it will no longer be considered attacking you (or attacking/blocking at all if it previously was).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-01-18T23:36:26.550" LastActivityDate="2013-01-18T23:36:26.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10853" CreationDate="2013-01-19T02:59:23.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Runners do not have the option of trashing cards that have no trash costs. They may trash cards with trash costs. Special care should be taken when accessing multiple cards (see page 18). From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;page 18 of the rules&lt;/a&gt;, under Access Phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HQ: The Runner accesses one random card from HQ and any upgrades in its root. Any cards the Runner does not score or trash return to HQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trashing Cards&lt;/strong&gt; - If the Runner accesses a card with a trash cost, he may pay credits equal to its trash cost in order to trash it to Archives faceup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T04:31:09.963" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8784" CreationDate="2013-01-19T16:22:56.063" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being in prison means that a player can't MOVE. But it doesn't prevent him or her from doing anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that these players can trade properties, build houses/hotels, or buy property at auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is, of course legal to buy a property at auction for $1, but Joe would have to outbid all other players, whether or not in jail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T19:11:44.553" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T19:11:44.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9573" CreationDate="2013-01-19T19:30:35.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chapel is obviously better for trashing, but Steward has many other uses&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to trash down quickly is very powerful, and good Chapel play generally is aggressive Chapel play, destroying as many cards as possible in the first few. But Steward is so flexible, that it is well worth considering in many decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both Steward and Chapel are available and I have $3 to spend on the first turn, I would have to look carefully at the rest of the board before making my decision. For example, if Mountebank is on the board and there isn't huge engine potential, I would take Steward/Silver instead of Silver/Chapel. The effect of Chapeling down your deck will be mitigated if your opponent is handing you two junk cards every turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Steward/Silver, if you draw the Steward with four coppers in the next shuffle, take the Mountebank. if the Steward comes up with 2 estates and 2 coppers, then just trash the estates. There's a lot of flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What about the 5/2 split?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both Chapel and Steward are on the board and you open 5/2 ... the thing is, it's harder to justify taking the Steward over the Chapel because the comparison will be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[power 5 card] + [Chapel]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;versus&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Steward] + [nothing]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most board have 5-cost cards that are very powerful, and by themselves they might be preferable to Steward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Dukes are out (especially in 2 player games) I would consider Steward better than Chapel for sure. I would NOT get a Chapel in a Duke game because Copper isn't bad at picking up Duchies or Dukes. The Steward remains a solid choice because you can trash your starting estates, or use it for +2 Cards to cycle faster, or more likely use it for +$2 to get enough cash to purchase a Duchy or Duke later on. In 2p games, I would say that 70% of the time when Duke is out you want to go for a Duke strategy over Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you interpret the question a little more broadly, it is definitely better to pick up Steward over Chapel if Hunting Party is on the board. However, I would still open Hunting Party / nothing, and then get Steward in turns 3 or 4. Hunting Party decks don't need much trashing, and the Steward will suffice in getting rid of the starting estates so the Hunting Parties will run much smoother.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play this Hunting Party deck, you'd buy LOTS of Hunting Parties, 1 gold, 1 silver, 1 steward, and once you have a critical mass of Hunting Parties plunge for Provinces. But you do NOT want diversity here. Steward will act as Trash 2 until the estates are out, and then switch to +$2 to get Provinces. (1 gold + 1 silver + 1 copper + Steward = Province)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, Steward is an average payload for a Hunting Party deck, and more often than not there will be a card better than Steward out there to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4789" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T19:30:35.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-19T22:53:49.833" Score="20" ViewCount="73829" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have to have exactly 60 cards in a Magic the Gathering deck? Some people I've talked to at FNM say yes, others say no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4791" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-19T23:40:26.140" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T17:32:35.217" Title="Do you have to have exactly 60 cards in a Magic the Gathering deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10859" CreationDate="2013-01-19T23:18:11.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You certainly don't, not in any normal MtG format.  60 card decks are the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; in most Constructed formats, but there is no upper bound.  Commander decks are all the same size... but they are 100 cards big, not 60.  In typical Limited environments (Draft/Sealed) the minimum size is 40, with an upper limit determined only by the size of your cardpool (and even then you can add a LOT of basic lands on top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to prove to someone that a Magic deck doesn't have to have exactly 60 cards in it, the quickest way is probably to refer them to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=288878&quot;&gt;Battle of Wits&lt;/a&gt; - a famous card that doesn't even make sense in a world of uniform 60-card decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-19T23:18:11.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10859" CreationDate="2013-01-19T23:21:15.130" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, not at all. You probably should keep it near the minimum since a deck of minimum size will provide more consistent results than a larger deck, but you are not obligated to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For &lt;em&gt;constructed&lt;/em&gt; events, your deck must have &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 60 cards&lt;sup&gt;[CR 100.2a]&lt;/sup&gt; (plus an optional sideboard of &lt;em&gt;no more than&lt;/em&gt; 15 cards&lt;sup&gt;[CR 100.4a]&lt;/sup&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For &lt;em&gt;limited&lt;/em&gt; (draft and sealed) events, your deck must have &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; 40 cards&lt;sup&gt;[CR 100.2b]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally all decks no matter the format must be &amp;quot;able to be shuffled within a reasonable time&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/formats&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;formats&lt;/a&gt; that impose additional limitations. Notably,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For &lt;em&gt;Commander&lt;/em&gt; games, your deck must have &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 100 cards (including your Commander)&lt;sup&gt;[CR 903.5a]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could quote you the rules, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battle%20of%20Wits&quot;&gt;Battle of Wits&lt;/a&gt; is much more convincing :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: When this answer was originally written the side board was limited to &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 15 cards. This has changed. I have updated this information to match current rules since it doesn't affect the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T16:11:36.370" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:11:36.370" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10863" CreationDate="2013-01-20T00:49:49.460" Score="10" ViewCount="662" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a robot is powered down it loses all damage tokens, but can collect new ones by laser fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a damaged, powered-down robot is standing on a workshop at the end of its turn: Does it lose one damage token?&#xA;Is the same answer also true for getting option cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-20T02:55:27.237" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T15:27:18.267" Title="Can a powered-down robot be repaired at a workshop?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10862" CreationDate="2013-01-20T07:14:20.800" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, robots can still receive damage tokens while powered down. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&quot;&gt;Page 5 of the rulebook&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Power Down&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other robots can push a powered-down robot, and the robot can still be damaged (such as by laser fire), Because of that, a robot that’s powered down may receive new Damage tokens during the turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you still repair damage and collect option cards. (Page 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The robot doesn’t receive or execute Program cards and doesn’t move while powered down, but board elements still affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repairs &amp;amp; Upgrades&lt;/strong&gt; - Robots on a single-wrench space discard 1 Damage token. Robots on a crossed wrench/hammer space discard 1 Damage token AND draw one Option card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: My answer is based upon the most recent rules available from Wizards of the Coast. There seems to be some differences between &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/736692/different-rules-version-1994-and-2005&quot;&gt;older printings&lt;/a&gt; of this game. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8313174#8313174&quot;&gt;thread claims&lt;/a&gt; to link to a text version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://globetrotter-games.com/index.htm?E&amp;amp;game/rules/eRobRal1.htm&quot;&gt;1994 rules&lt;/a&gt; that indicate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A powered-down robot is completely shut down--it can't fire weapons, tag checkpoints, or update its archive location, nor can it acquire or use option cards. Powered-down robots don't move under their own power (they receive no program cards), but they may be moved by pushers, gears, and conveyor belts. They may also be pushed by other robots and shot at by lasers &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-01-20T15:27:18.267" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T15:27:18.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10869" CreationDate="2013-01-20T18:43:55.543" Score="6" ViewCount="5884" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bananagrams, are words that require characters such as hyphens, dashes, and spaces (all of which do not have tiles) allowed simply by omitting the characters with corresponding tile? Or are they not allowed at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple examples that have come up in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Twas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;U-boat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other examples would include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;top hat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;man-at-arms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4796" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-01-20T19:03:21.883" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T22:34:29.940" Title="Apostrophes, hyphens, or other tile-less characters in Bananagrams" Tags="|scoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8433" CreationDate="2013-01-20T18:58:03.047" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was already stated in the other answers, discarding an empty hand is not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This clarification is missing in the new Munchkin FAQ, because the wizard cards' text changed in the newer editions. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/changelog.html&quot;&gt;changelog&lt;/a&gt; summarizes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Charm Spell now requires a hand of at least three cards. You cannot discard a smaller hand to activate this power. To balance this, the Flight Spell now may be used after the Run Away roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means with the old rules you need at least one card, with the new rules at least three cards for the Charm spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="3262" LastEditDate="2013-01-20T20:08:59.240" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T20:08:59.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2013-01-20T21:35:00.063" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The website &lt;a href=&quot;http://OhioEuchre.Com/&quot;&gt;http://OhioEuchre.Com/&lt;/a&gt; has much information on bidding strategies. Euchre is a game of chance where aggression pays off. The more you play the better you will get. Take chances! Even when you are getting euchred you're learning more about the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The person that said there is little strategy to euchre is incorrect. Just play in any tournament. You'll see that the same people seem to win most of the time. I don't think they're just luckly. I think they took the time to learn the different strategies of the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4798" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T18:43:46.757" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T18:43:46.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10868" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:13:24.890" Score="13" ViewCount="57904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243229&quot;&gt;Chosen of Markov&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and I played a vampire earlier this turn. Can I tap both to transform Chosen of Markov even though I just played the vampire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra Example:&lt;/strong&gt; I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=35079&quot;&gt;Battle Screech&lt;/a&gt; to put two 1/1 white bird tokens into play. Can I now tap a both of them and another creature I control to pay Battle Screech's flashback cost of tapping three white creatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously these creatures couldn't use any tap abilities until my next turn, but since the tapping is coming from a different source, I figured the situation might be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T01:47:16.137" Title="Can I tap a creature with summoning sickness to pay &quot;tap an untapped creature you control&quot; costs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T07:42:26.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10867" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:22:55.287" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. Relevant rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability &lt;strong&gt;with the tap symbol or the untap symbol&lt;/strong&gt; in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the tap symbol:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhmvF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;tap symbol&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limit that summoning sickness imposes is about the tap symbol . &quot;Tap an untapped Vampire you control&quot; is not the tap symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has nothing to do with being from another source. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHeritage%20Druid%5d&quot;&gt;Heritage Druid&lt;/a&gt; could tap herself the turn she comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T01:20:29.483" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T01:20:29.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10864" CreationDate="2013-01-20T22:34:29.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bananagrams has a pretty basic set of rules, compared to other games: it seems that the only guidance on this subject is &quot;a legal word is one found in a dictionary (the volume should be agreed upon in advance)&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously all your examples can be found in many reasonably good dictionaries.  However, I (and most other diehard Scrabble players I'm sure) would be extremely un-keen to allow them.  Essentially - all of those examples are not actually words, but &lt;em&gt;multiple words&lt;/em&gt;, albeit abridged or conjoined in some way.  Additionally, all of them would look really weird played in a game of Bananagrams or Scrabble with their punctuation marks missing; to the extent where you'd have to wonder if they were the same words at all.  &quot;Manatarms&quot;, &quot;tophat&quot;, &quot;uboat&quot;?  They don't look right for a reason.  Now maybe if a hyphen tile existed in the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do think, though, that this is exactly the type of game where house rules on acceptability are perfectly reasonable, and indeed a good thing.  If you and the people you play with think it's more annoying to have to rule out hyphenated, abbreviated and capitalised real words than it is just to allow them, then I can't see any possible reason not to agree amongst yourselves that they're fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-20T22:34:29.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10872" CreationDate="2013-01-21T12:52:05.917" Score="6" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Star Craft: The Board Game recently as Jim Raynor, and a question arose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do planet areas with (fully) depleted resources count for Raynor's special victory objective? We ruled it as &quot;no&quot; on the spot, but later I couldn't find anything related in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4799" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T14:51:30.460" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T15:06:13.267" Title="Do areas with depleted resources count for Jim Raynor's victory condition?" Tags="|starcraft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10871" CreationDate="2013-01-21T14:37:10.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, depleted areas do count. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/StarCraft/scbw_faq.pdf&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If an area has been fully depleted of resources, does it still&#xA;  count towards players’ special victory conditions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. For&#xA;  example, Jim Raynor needs to control six areas containing gas and/or&#xA;  minerals; this includes any area that has a printed gas or mineral&#xA;  icon on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T14:37:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10875" CreationDate="2013-01-21T18:20:58.063" Score="8" ViewCount="1335" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you break a subroutine on a piece of ice, you may pay 1 cred to break 1 additional subroutine on that ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When would I need this card? With most icebreakers, it's 1 cred to break a subroutine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RfCs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RfCs.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="18439" LastEditDate="2017-11-03T11:45:16.127" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T04:25:09.860" Title="What is e3 Feedback Implants good for?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10874" CreationDate="2013-01-21T20:35:34.767" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of right now, there are two situations in which E3 feedback implants are useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is that it isn't always 1 cred to break a subroutine. Aurora, Peacock, Battering Ram, and Wyrm all cost more than 1 cred to break a subroutine. Two of these (Aurora &amp;amp; Peacock) are the same faction as E3 feedback implants. So it's feasible that you'd save a little bit of money over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second use is against bioroid ice. Bioroid ice subroutines can be broken by spending a click. So with E3 feedback implants any bioroid ice can be bypassed by paying 1 click + 1 cred/remaining subroutine. Which makes things like Janus only cost 1 click + 3 creds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are things added in the future that allow breaking subroutines via non-icebreaker methods, E3 implants would also be useful in those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;There was discussion about whether or not E3 feedback implants could be used as the triggering condition for itself, so here's a link to a thread on BoardGameGeek where this got answered. (It does trigger itself)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/910289/e3-feedback-implant-official-answer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/910289/e3-feedback-implant-official-answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="1243" LastEditDate="2013-01-21T20:41:53.287" LastActivityDate="2013-01-21T20:41:53.287" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10874" CreationDate="2013-01-21T20:35:50.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As more cards come out, new synergies will obviously appear, but I think its best use at the moment is against some of the incredibly tough Haas-Bioroid ice which allow the runner to spend clicks to break subroutines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Janus 1.0&lt;/a&gt; is an 8 strength HB ice and has four subroutines which read &lt;code&gt;Do 1 brain damage&lt;/code&gt;, but allows the runner to spend clicks to break subroutines, one click breaks one subroutine. It might be very expensive in credits to beef up your icebreaker of choice and break all four subroutines, or expensive in clicks (if you even have enough) but with an &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02024&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;E3 Feedback Implants&lt;/a&gt;, you could spend one click and three credits to break all the subroutines, which is much cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T04:25:09.860" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T04:25:09.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10878" CreationDate="2013-01-22T05:28:17.030" Score="3" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CAFS Firefighter has 3 AP plus 3 free extinguish AP per turn. Do these extra AP allow him to extinguish a fire for 1 AP, or does it still cost 2 AP to extinguish a fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T14:31:31.943" Title="Cost for the CAFS Firefighter to extinguish fires" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10877" CreationDate="2013-01-22T14:31:31.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Action Point (AP) cost is unchanged. From page 4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indieboardsandcards.com/fpfrenglishrules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player  gets 4 Action Points (AP) to spend on their turn. Each Action has a corresponding AP cost to perform. A player may select from any of the available Actions in any order and spend the appropriate AP to perform it. An action may be performed more than once per turn, so long as the AP cost is spent each time that Action is performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may pass. Unspent AP are saved from turn to turn. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extinguish&lt;/strong&gt; – Use your gear to fight the fire in the Firefighter’s space or an Adjacent space:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove a Smoke marker from the Board: 1 AP • Flip a Fire marker to Smoke: 1 AP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove a Fire marker from the Board: 2 AP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is usually best to completely Extinguish Fire (2 AP); Smoke is liable to reignite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the CAFS Firefighter has to spend the normal 2 AP to fully extinguish fire, but they can use their free Extinguish AP that cannot be saved between turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CAFS Firefighter&lt;/strong&gt; - 3 AP plus 3 free Extinguish AP per turn. Free Extinguish AP cannot be saved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T14:31:31.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-22T18:08:16.437" Score="-1" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Munchkin for about two years.  I just moved to a new city, and now that I'm away from my friends, I've realized that not many people know the game even exists and most have no interest whatsoever. How do I go about finding people to play with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4804" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T22:58:59.737" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T04:17:55.183" Title="How to find a game of Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-01-25T06:20:38.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2013-01-22T18:55:36.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're even in a moderately urban area You should be able to find a board/tabletop/card games store, and it's not entirely rare for people to come to the store just to play non-specific board/card games.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can probably ask the owner if he knows of such a group.  Odds are that he does.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T18:55:36.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2013-01-22T19:01:17.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look for stores that sell board, CCG, or role playing games.  I'd start with store finders on sites like Wizards.com. If you don't have a specialized hobby store, you can try more general stores that sell that product type such as Hastings. People at these locations might know other players, or even have places set up to play / hang out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check sites like Meetup and Facebook for board game groups. Also check any local universities for that type of group as well.  Sometimes you have to dig, but there are gamers out there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T19:01:17.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10885" CreationDate="2013-01-22T21:22:35.120" Score="6" ViewCount="9104" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to be playing this weekend at the prerelease of Gatecrash, with the chosen guild of Simic. Now the core strategy of Simic is to grow relentlessly, using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/228#6&quot;&gt;Evolve mechanic&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, if that creature has greater power or toughness than this creature, put a +1/+1 counter on this creature&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of problems with this guild type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its power level is inconsistent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not many creatures in green and blue that have high toughness and power to make it evolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mitigate the issues of running Simic I'm considering splashing red for Gruul might be the most optimum choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other problems, strategy, or card combos should I watch out for when playing Simic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T23:10:07.177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T15:48:53.487" Title="MTG Gatecrash Simic Strategies for a Prerelease event" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10882" CreationDate="2013-01-22T21:53:24.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't pre-determine which guilds I would be playing at this point if I were you, even if you already know that you're getting a simic pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for all you know, you can open nothing but bad simic cards in your guild pack, yet open all the boros bombs in your other 5 regular booster packs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you do go simic, you might get the good boros cards, or you might also get the good dimir cards to supplement your third color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also advise against worrying too much about what your &quot;weaknesses&quot; are.  Just make sure you have good threats and/or answers.  Think about whether you'll be able to keep pressure on your opponent, killing him quick or potentially forcing him into bad trades, or whether you'll need to be able to win a war of attrition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;remember bread&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B – Bombs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;R – Removal&lt;br&gt;&#xA;E – Efficient Spells  (or evasion, depending on who you talk to)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A – Aggro&lt;br&gt;&#xA;D – Dregs   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T21:53:24.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10882" CreationDate="2013-01-22T22:45:48.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Leyline Phantom looks like a good Simic roleplayer at common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4U for a 5/5, return it to its owners hand if it deals combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The supposed drawback is actually an advantage on a card that &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; says &quot;when this comes into play, evolve all your creatures&quot;, and may even do that job twice (or force your opponent to do some chump blocking they wouldn't otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T22:45:48.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10882" CreationDate="2013-01-22T22:46:14.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to GTC Simic in general, here's this humble magic players breakdown of the playables. The only cards included here are commons since you really can't ever rely on seeing even uncommons. There's about 80 uncommon cards a set, and you're going to see a total of 18. So maybe three or four of those will be simic, and maybe one of those will be playable. If they are great, but let's focus on the bread (no pun intended) and butter of your guild first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card doesn't appear in this list, it's because I personally didn't think it would be a good fit for the &amp;quot;grow 'em&amp;quot; strategy, which is undoubtedly what simic will be playing. That doesn't necessarily mean it's bad (although it probably means I think it's bad in general), and I welcome challenges to anything present in or absent from the list. I am comfortable making the list because it's 1) objective based on certain criteria, 2) limited (only 34 cards of the 259 are eligible for the list) and 3) comprehensive (it's not just a list but the reasons why are included so someone could apply the same sorts of logic to other cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green playables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crocanura&quot;&gt;Crocanura&lt;/a&gt; - 3 toughness reach is decent - flying is huge in limited. Evolving will make it hit higher power quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crowned%20Ceratok&quot;&gt;Crowned Ceratok&lt;/a&gt; - 4 power trample is great. Giving all your evolve trample is great too. Three toughness makes it weaker to red aggro cards like a 3/1 or 3/2, but it's still a great card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disciple%20of%20the%20Old%20Ways&quot;&gt;Disciple of the Old Ways&lt;/a&gt; - He's a bear, which is usually playable anyway. His bonus is great if you're splashing red.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Greenside%20Watcher&quot;&gt;Greenside Watcher&lt;/a&gt; - If you have 3 or more gates, he's worth playing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ivy%20Lane%20Denizen&quot;&gt;Ivy Lane Denizen&lt;/a&gt; - Every green guy gets a +1/+1 counter. Note that this +1/+1 counter happens in parallel with evolve, which is excellent!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slaughterhorn&quot;&gt;Slaughterhorn&lt;/a&gt; - A 3/2 for 3 is probably playable anyway, but having bloodrush is simple excellent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spire%20Tracer&quot;&gt;Spire Tracer&lt;/a&gt; - He's not a flier, but he acts like one. Green rarely gets fliers, so this is excellent news. Expect him to be targets of +1/+1 counters and bloodrushes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland%20Viper&quot;&gt;Wasteland Viper&lt;/a&gt; - A 1/2 for 1 is rather lame considering last set gave us Dryad Militant (although that was uncommon). The bloodrush component of this is still excellent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forced%20Adaptation&quot;&gt;Forced Adaptation&lt;/a&gt; - You risk being 2-for-1ed with this, but this will make your creature scale well with your turns. Combos well with Ceratok.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pit%20Fight&quot;&gt;Pit Fight&lt;/a&gt; (R/G hybrid) - Cheap instant-speed removal at common. Between evolve, big green creatures, and Wasteland Viper, you've got a lot of viable fighters in your colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Verdant%20Haven&quot;&gt;Verdant Haven&lt;/a&gt; - Everyone loves acceleration, but green traditionally has the best.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue Playables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudfin%20Raptor&quot;&gt;Cloudfin Raptor&lt;/a&gt; - will probably swing for 1 on turn 2 as you'd expect with a typical flier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keymaster%20Rogue&quot;&gt;Keymaster Rogue&lt;/a&gt; - This guy is great for triggering those +1/+1 counters all over the place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Metropolis%20Sprite&quot;&gt;Metropolis Sprite&lt;/a&gt; - he has the +1/-1 ability that Frostborn Wierd had in RTR, and that proved to be very effective. Putting it on only one color isn't as good, and having only two toughness is also not as good, but if you have ways to get counters on blue creatures, this is a good place for it. Otherwise leave this out of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20Phantom&quot;&gt;Leyline Phantom&lt;/a&gt; - good for triggering +1/+1 abilites, although it's late in the game, simic should be able to drag the game out to make him worth it. He's kind of like an expensive keymaster rogue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hands%20of%20Binding&quot;&gt;Hands of Binding&lt;/a&gt; - probably the best blue spell at common, this is a must play if you have good fliers or other evasion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Last%20Thoughts&quot;&gt;Last Thoughts&lt;/a&gt; - this is pretty expensive if you don't get a lot of uses out of the cipher component, but if it does work out for you it's excellent. If your opponent has a lot of removal, sideboard this out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Rupture&quot;&gt;Spell Rupture&lt;/a&gt; - If you have the big green fatties of old, this is effectively a Cancel for 1U isntead of 1UU. That's a great thing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Way%20of%20the%20Thief&quot;&gt;Way of the Thief&lt;/a&gt; - Maro promised gates would mean more in this expansion than in RTR. The only real use of gate in RTR before was on a fairly crappy defender in black that really didn't fit the profile. This on the otherhand is a pretty good fit. +2/+2 and unblockable is good, but doing it for 4 is pretty expensive. On the other hand, if the unblockable creature has a couple ciphers on him, well now you're going to win the game. Congrats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simic Playables:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Drakewing%20Krasis&quot;&gt;Drakewing Krasis&lt;/a&gt; - he's a 3/1 flample - since he's still green he combos well with Ivy Lane Denizen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shambleshark&quot;&gt;Shambleshark&lt;/a&gt; - 2/1 flash evolve for 2 - requires exactly UG so could be tough to drop on turn 2. But with flash, you can leave the mana open and your opponent may think he's safer for a turn longer than he really is. Great potential here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt; - if someone kills your creature with a bunch of +1/+1 counters (see Forced Adaptation) you can save them quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T09:28:42.790" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T09:28:42.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10890" CreationDate="2013-01-22T22:50:26.417" Score="19" ViewCount="287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under page 6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_4_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; it states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loading/shipping rules&lt;/strong&gt;: When shipping, players must follow these rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each cargo ship will carry goods on only one kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players may not load goods on a cargo ship if goods of that same kind are on one of the other two cargo ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players may not load goods on a full ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a player's turn, he must load goods if he can. However, he may only load one kind of goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When a players loads good of a kind, he must load as many of that kind as he can. A player cannot hold back goods where there is space on a cargo ship carrying the kind of goods he has. &lt;strong&gt;If a player has a kind of goods that can be loaded on several empty ships, he must choose the ship where he can load the most goods, leaving none behind, if possible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a player has several kinds of goods that he can load, he may choose freely, which goods to load. He need not choose the goods that would allow him to load the most barrels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolded part above is what is confusing me. So say you only had 1 corn and all the ships are empty. Does this mean you are free to choose any ship? Or is this rule saying you must choose the largest ship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read the rule as saying you cannot choose a ship that is smaller than the amount of goods you have to ship, unless it's the largest of the only available ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3177" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T02:42:33.013" Title="Do the shipping rules restrict my choices if all ships are empty?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10886" CreationDate="2013-01-22T23:08:23.087" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, there's no restriction about which ship you load the corn onto if all the ships are empty.  It's often a good idea to load onto a ship that makes other players' loading decisions most inconvenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The restriction does exactly what you assumed it does: stops you from loading a few of your goods into a small ship, if you could load all of them into a big ship.   You must ship if you can, and you must ship as much of the resource that you choose to ship as you can, each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T23:08:23.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10882" CreationDate="2013-01-22T23:12:59.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good interactions posted so far. Here's a couple Cipher cards that make me giddy when I think about interaction with &lt;em&gt;evolve&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt; – Exile a fatty. He makes your guys bigger for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stolen%20Identity&quot;&gt;Stolen Identity&lt;/a&gt; – If copying a big obvious fatty isn't available yet, make a small &lt;em&gt;evolve&lt;/em&gt; creature that will become a real threat later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Last%20Thoughts&quot;&gt;Last Thoughts&lt;/a&gt; – Card advantage helps &lt;em&gt;evolve&lt;/em&gt;. Draw more creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in a comment to another answer, one trick with &lt;em&gt;evolve&lt;/em&gt; will be cheating the mana curve. You need fatties to trigger &lt;em&gt;evolve&lt;/em&gt;, but there's not much room in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to cheat is by playing creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20Phantom&quot;&gt;Leyline Phantom&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keymaster%20Rogue&quot;&gt;Keymaster Rogue&lt;/a&gt; that allow you to cast those large power/toughness creatures multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to cheat is to play mid-range cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scab-Clan%20Charger&quot;&gt;Scab-Clan Charger&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slaughterhorn&quot;&gt;Slaughterhorn&lt;/a&gt; on the low end of the curve, casting them with &lt;em&gt;Bloodrush&lt;/em&gt; to apply pressure if you are fully &lt;em&gt;evolved&lt;/em&gt; or can't spare the mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. Sometime, somewhere, I am going to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shambleshark&quot;&gt;Shambleshark&lt;/a&gt; in response to an opponent's &lt;em&gt;ciphered&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Last%20Thoughts&quot;&gt;Last Thoughts&lt;/a&gt;. Then I shall smile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PPS. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning-Tree%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Burning-Tree Emissary&lt;/a&gt; has potential for broken early plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-01-22T23:57:54.527" LastActivityDate="2013-01-22T23:57:54.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6857" CreationDate="2013-01-23T01:30:56.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One purpose of the auction rule is to speed up the game. Basically, the designers wanted property to get in the hands of players as quickly as possible. So if the player who lands on a property won't buy it for list price, then the designers want it auctioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could be that all (or all but one) players are very short of cash, to the point where they couldn't pay even the mortgage value for the property. (This is particularly true if there is a house rule that says that players can mortgage their own property at the beginning of their turn.) Then someone would get a &quot;steal&quot; by buying the property for less than mortgage value, then mortgaging it on a later turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T01:30:56.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10886" CreationDate="2013-01-23T02:42:33.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule what you stated, but your wording is awkward. I would say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player has a kind of goods that can be loaded on several empty ships, he must choose a ship at least as large as the number of goods of that kind, leaving no goods behind. If no ships are large enough, that player must choose the largest ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T02:42:33.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10879" CreationDate="2013-01-23T04:17:55.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steve Jackson Games, the makers of Munchkin, have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/gamerfinder/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gamer Finder&lt;/a&gt;. You can check to see if there are any stores or individuals are nearby, and even register yourself so other SJG players can find you. If you are really gung-ho about the game, you might also want to join the MIBs which is a not so secret group of gamers who run demos of Munchkin and other SJG Games at Hobby Shops and conventions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T04:17:55.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1813" CreationDate="2013-01-23T05:37:11.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;it shouldnt be difficult just add more extension packs (which add 2 players) and either paint them different colours or build new pieces. it is a good idea to have two longest road and largest army. however the monopoly card( or any other rules) shouldnt be needed to mess with, yes the monopoly is powerful but the 7 is rolled the most ( most likely anyway) and this would negate the monopoly card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4808" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T05:37:11.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10895" CreationDate="2013-01-23T05:47:43.993" Score="6" ViewCount="3303" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure they would get destroyed, but people have argued that they stay on the field negated, since the card does not explicitly state &quot;the card gets destroyed and sent to the graveyard.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my defense I state that it makes no sense that a card never be activated (since LaDD prevents activations) and still remain face up on the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They respond that since it never got activated it gets set again, and therefore they think they can get away with activating it every turn to weaken my LaDD.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for hard evidence that I can show these kids the next time we have this comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3650" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T17:46:47.317" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T19:01:52.040" Title="What happens with continous trap/spell cards when they get negated by Light and Darkness Dragon?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11318" CreationDate="2013-01-23T05:54:02.337" Score="2" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to remember &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack#Basic_strategy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this basic Blackjack strategy table&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a flashcards deck to learn them? (by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spaced_repetition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spaced repetition&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preferably in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anki&lt;/a&gt; format, but other formats are fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3399" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T14:53:49.517" Title="Flashcards to learn Blackjack strategy table?" Tags="|teaching|blackjack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10893" CreationDate="2013-01-23T06:50:36.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These rulings come from &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings:Light_and_Darkness_Dragon&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;yugioh.wikia.com&lt;/a&gt;, and note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These TCG rulings were issued by Upper Deck Entertainment and have since been deemed unofficial by Konami.[18] They were previously considered official and can still be correct, as long as they follow the official gameplay rules, or unless Konami has issued a ruling that says otherwise. References: [19][20][21][22][23][24][25][26]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Light and Darkness Dragon” &lt;strong&gt;cannot negate the activation of the Ignition-like effect of Continuous Spell or Trap Cards&lt;/strong&gt; (“Ultimate Offering”, etc.) or Field Spell Cards (“Ancient City - Rainbow Ruins”, etc.). “Light and Darkness Dragon's” second effect activates when a Spell or Trap Card is first activated (placed face-up onto the field or flipped face-up).&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090226121422/http://entertainment.upperdeck.com/yugioh/en/gameplay/faqs/cardfaqs/default.aspx?first=L&amp;amp;last=O&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;17&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When “Light and Darkness Dragon” &lt;strong&gt;negates the activation of a Continuous Spell or Trap Card, the Continuous Spell or Trap Card is sent to the Graveyard.&lt;/strong&gt; When “Light and Darkness Dragon” negates the activation of “Swords of Revealing Light”, the “Swords of Revealing Light” is sent to the Graveyard.&lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090226121422/http://entertainment.upperdeck.com/yugioh/en/gameplay/faqs/cardfaqs/default.aspx?first=L&amp;amp;last=O&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;17&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T11:56:16.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2013-01-23T16:13:02.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure this is something you want/need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many casinos do not care if you play with the strategy card on the table in front of you. Some casinos also provide them if requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110602191708AAVZtUx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110602191708AAVZtUx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackjackinfo.com/bb/showthread.php?t=520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.blackjackinfo.com/bb/showthread.php?t=520&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T16:52:50.113" LastActivityDate="2013-01-23T16:52:50.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10898" CreationDate="2013-01-23T22:51:20.763" Score="5" ViewCount="7593" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 1st edition rule book it is explained that ships can support an adjacent battle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ship units may support adjacent combat in a sea area or a ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if I'm attacking from a spot that touches water, into a spot that does not touch water? The rules don't ever specify what the battle area is. It makes intuitive sense that the ships wouldn't actually be able to cross land, but since the rules don't specify the answer it has become a question for my gaming group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would also be the question for land units. Do the units need to be touching the defending land/sea area? Or would they be allowed to be called in from areas adjacent to the attacking land area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4814" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-23T23:09:05.217" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T17:19:20.030" Title="When can sea units support land battles, and vice versa?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2013-01-24T00:13:21.630" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm only familiar with the 2nd Edition, but I believe it's similar. (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10808/1749&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; doesn't list include support in it's list of differences.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When thinking about support, it doesn't matter where you're attacking &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt;. The battle takes place in the region troops enter to attack, and only units (ships or land units) bordering the defending region can offer support to either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense: you can't march your troops to the border and yell taunts until the defenders come to you, you have to go to them. Hence attacks are initiated by a March order. It doesn't matter at all what regions border the region your attackers came from. Only the regions bordering the one region where combat occurs--the region being attacked--can offer support to the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your last point, land units can &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; support a naval battle. They can't swim well enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bet this was a common confusion from the 1st Edition; the 2nd Edition rules seemed to really drive both of these points home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T00:13:21.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:35:08.323" Score="3" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played Cargo Noir last night for the first time and we found that by the end of the game, half the cargos in the black market had been there from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are at Macao, you can swap or pick a random cargo from the bag.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since you need to have a cargo to swap for a cargo, players often chose to random pick out of the bag as it increases your cargo and still carries a chance of getting what you need.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This meant that people tended to ignore swaps and go for random in every stage of the game, and the market became stagnant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any suggestions on ways that increase the turn over of cargo on the market and freshen things up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastEditorUserId="3475" LastEditDate="2013-01-27T12:09:54.177" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T22:35:01.517" Title="Cargo Noir: How to prevent Macao Black Market from going stale" Tags="|cargo-noir|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10899" CreationDate="2013-01-24T15:36:27.213" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One idea I had was to have D8 roll that would remove a cargo from the market to the discard pile at the end of each player turn.  Each cargo space in the market obviously related to each di side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, there is constant new cargo coming in to the market, keeping it fresh, but also adding a danger element as cargo that you were waiting for might get removed by the time it gets to your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think this would work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3475" LastEditorUserId="3475" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T22:35:01.517" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T22:35:01.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10897" CreationDate="2013-01-24T17:19:20.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ships may support land combat, land units may not support sea combat (my friends always say &quot;imagine the men and horses swimming out into the sea&quot; as opposed to ships raiding the shores).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battle takes place in the area which you are trying to conquer, so only units adjacent to it may support it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; p. 17:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ship units may support adjacent combat in a sea area or a&#xA;  land area. Footmen, Knights, or Siege Engine units, however,&#xA;  may never provide support to combat in a sea area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; p. 13:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the “Declare Support” step of combat, supporting units&#xA;  adjacent to the embattled area may add their combat strength to&#xA;  one of the two participants in the adjacent combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-24T17:19:20.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10906" CreationDate="2013-01-24T21:38:55.330" Score="4" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an online version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Set_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game of Set&lt;/a&gt;, and I want to get my vocabulary straight. So far, the words I have are &quot;card&quot;, &quot;deck&quot;, &quot;(card) feature&quot;, &quot;set&quot;, &quot;player&quot; and &quot;dealer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am missing words describing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the initial laying of 12 cards (lay out? initialisation?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the addition of 3 cards when a set has been found (add on? filler?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the set of cards that are face up, on the table (board? table?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the attempt made by a player to demonstrate a set (move? call? attempt?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the different types within a feature (variations?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the technical terms used in card games, such as Set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4817" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T23:22:10.537" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T22:10:41.177" Title="Card game vocabulary" Tags="|online|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10905" CreationDate="2013-01-24T22:16:54.897" Score="4" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when I play Procession and use Throne Room as an action card affected by Procession?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me give you an example. I have a hand of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Procession&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Village&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play Throne room within Procession and then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I play only one action card in Throne room, e.g. Bridge, and it is played 4 times (Throne room played twice, both with Bridge inside) or&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I play two action cards in Throne room, e.g. I use Bridge in first play of Throne room and then Bridge is used and when I play Throne room for the second time I have to use Village (my only action card left)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: does Procession treat an action card in Throne room as one card (as we usually do when we play Throne room) or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1731" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T17:33:35.837" Title="Procession and Throne room interaction" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10904" CreationDate="2013-01-25T00:25:19.953" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Procession rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you Procession a Procession, you will play one Action twice, trash&#xA;  it, gain an Action card costing more, then play another Action twice,&#xA;  trash it, gain an Action card costing more, then trash the Procession&#xA;  and gain an Action costing more than it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to assume that Throne Rooming a Procession would behave any differently: they both allow you to &quot;play an Action card from your hand twice&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your second scenario is correct: you would play two different action cards twice, not one action card four times over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T00:25:19.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10903" CreationDate="2013-01-25T00:31:11.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Part of) the rules of Set read as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The dealer shuffles the cards and lays twelve cards (in a rectangle)&#xA;  face up on the table so that they can be seen by all players. The&#xA;  players remove a 'Set' of three cards as they are seen. Each 'Set' is&#xA;  checked by the other players. If correct, the 'Set' is kept by the&#xA;  player and the dealer replaces the three cards with three from the&#xA;  deck. Players do not take turns but pick up 'Sets' as soon as they see&#xA;  them. A player must call 'Set' before picking up the cards. After a&#xA;  player has called 'Set', no other player can pick up cards until the&#xA;  first player is finished. If a player calls 'Set' and does not have&#xA;  one, the player loses one point. The three cards are returned to the&#xA;  table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I'd recommend for your terms: (1) layout, or possibly deal; (2) replacement; (3) the cards [on the table]; (4) calling 'Set'; and (5) variation.  (Not in the above paragraph, but earlier in the rules I'm looking at, it states &quot;Each card has a variation of the following four features&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T00:31:11.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10904" CreationDate="2013-01-25T02:44:45.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of whether you throne room your procession, or procession your throne room, you'll play the bridge and village twice if you play them. Some key things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you Throne Room first you will play Procession twice, trashing both the village (getting a 4 cost) and bridge ( getting a printed 5 cost card, see below.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you Procession the throne room, you will play the village and bridge twice, and then trash the throne room (getting a printed 5 cost card, see below.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bridge's effect will go off twice, reducing the cost of all cards by two, but this is largely irrelevant, unless you play a BUNCH of bridges, or procession something really cheap like Poor House (cost 1). If you do manage to play enough bridges, to reduce the processioned card to cost 0 you'll then trash it for something costing 1, which can get wacky if you play enough bridges.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You do not have to reveal your hand but only procession includes a &quot;you may&quot; clause. If you Throne room your procession you don't have to play the bridge or village if you don't want to. You could throne room your procession, playing procession twice for no effect if you wanted. However if you Procession your throne room, you would have to play 2 action cards twice for throne rooms effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T17:33:35.837" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T17:33:35.837" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10882" CreationDate="2013-01-25T08:09:25.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have somewhat different evaluations than corsiKa does, so I feel like I should run down the list myself.  To my mind Simic will play very much as classic blue/green tempo decks like the old Madness decks did, with undercosted midrange creatures (rather than weenies per se) and especially at the prerelease, generous amounts of card draw (as facilitated by Fathom Seer).  Here are the cards I feel are particularly noteworthy, either because I think they're excellent or disagree with corsiKa:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creatures:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366290&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adaptive Snapjaw&lt;/a&gt;: don't sell this one short.  6/2 is awkward but means it'll trigger everyone else's evolve... but if you can get it to 8/4 this will almost always be a 2-for-1.  I'm not sure what to make of it yet, but I'm curious.  Also excellent, of course, for getting the 4th +1/+1 counter on your Cloudfin Raptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366363&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clinging Anemones&lt;/a&gt;: 4 toughness means that this is a surprisingly effective Evolve enabler and not just as an evolve guy itself; it's great for Snapjaw of course, but especially for...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloudfin Raptor&lt;/a&gt;: one of the best common creatures in the set.  A terrible late draw and surprisingly awkward in multiples, but any time you get to pay one mana for what can easily be a 3/4 flyer in the midgame you have to consider it a bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366292&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drakewing Krasis&lt;/a&gt;: awkward against opposing Crocanuras, of course, but 3-power flyers for 3 are always strong picks.  This is another guy I'll take and play very highly; I expect a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of games to end via these guys coming through the air while a Crocanura holds the ground.  Handy for being a high-power guy in a world of high-toughness, low-power evolve guys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366336&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forced Adaptation&lt;/a&gt;: unlike corsiKa, I'll be sad if this ever makes my deck; not only is the 2-for-1 potential real, but it's almost never going to be any faster than just playing out another guy.  Maybe if there were dense ground stalls (think Selesnya-on-Selesnya) this would be a better card, but with the sheer volumes of evasion (and pseudo-evasion like Extort), this really doesn't feel like a ground-stall set to me.  My first guess is honestly something closer to Zendikar than to RTR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frilled Oculus&lt;/a&gt;: don't sell this short.  At first I thought it was 1G for +2/-2 and I might &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; play it occasionally then.  As a 2-mana 1/3 that always has the potential to go 3/5, it's a surprisingly good attacker and will do an excellent job of holding the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366317&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ivy Lane Denizen&lt;/a&gt;: It's hard to tell whether this is better with Fathom Seer or with Drakewing Krasis, but either way it's pure value.  Absurdly good, and only its stats keep it from being an easy first-pick; at 3/3 I'd be windmilling him out of most packs.  Note, as I think corsiKa missed, that this can put the counter &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt;, not just on the guy coming into play.  It also doesn't work quite as well with evolve as you'd think, but that's a more complicated issue and I'll come back to it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keymaster Rogue&lt;/a&gt;: the cost on this is actually surprisingly awkward when you only have Evolve guys to return (you never really want to curve, say, Cloudfin into Crocanura into Rogue), but a 3-power unblockable guy at 4 is always going to be viable, and the removal is lighter than normal this set.  Another great target for Ivy Lane Denizen's counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366293&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Metropolis Sprite&lt;/a&gt;: Unfortunately, this is no Frostburn Weird any way you slice it.  A 1/2 flyer for 2 isn't playable straight up, and having to burn the mana to make it a 2/1 is a pain in a color-pair that looks like it ideally wants to curve 1-&gt;2-&gt;3-&gt;4 most games.  I might play this but I'll never be that happy to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366410&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scab-Clan Charger&lt;/a&gt;: The Bloodrush ability is unexciting but highly useful (and will push your flyers past spiders very well), but a 4-mana 2/4 is actually exactly what the deck wants to hold the ground &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; put another counter (or maybe two, with Denizen in play!) on a Cloudfin in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shambleshark&lt;/a&gt;: Fish Crab!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366281&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slaughterhorn&lt;/a&gt;: see Scab-Clan Charger, but I actually think that's a better creature than this for the Simic deck, and sometimes even a better spell (though spending 1G instead of G on it is kind of awkward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366236&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spire Tracer&lt;/a&gt;: I suspect this will be okay, but probably the worst of the evasive options available.  Certainly he's good with Denizen or Burst or counter-shifting, but so is every other flyer or flyer-like creature, and the others are all better on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spells:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burst of Strength: +1/+1 means it's not the best of combat tricks, but one mana is still fine, and untapping a guy means that your opponents will have to respect the ambush potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pit Fight&lt;/a&gt;: yay removal.  As corsiKa notes, the high-toughness evolve guys (Croc keeps coming up, doesn't he?) make this really nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366471&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Verdant Haven&lt;/a&gt;: IMHO this isn't as good as it looks.  Going from 3 to 5 isn't that good in a deck that has several good plays on three mana, several on four, and very few on 5.  The color fixing is really nice, of course, but I actually think this is much better for Gruul than Simic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notable uncommons, either good or bad:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366279&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elusive Krasis&lt;/a&gt;: I have a feeling he's not going to be quite as good as he looks.  The problem is that the natural Simic 'evasive guys plus ground-holders' strategy wants a lot of high-toughness, low-power guys to hold the ground... who are exactly the ones that don't trigger Krasis's evolve.  It'll be easy to get a counter onto him and two should be common, but a 2/6 unblockable creature is fine but nothing-exciting because the extra toughness just doesn't matter much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hindervines&lt;/a&gt;: Hopefully, this will be a blowout; realistically, it's probably something like Safe Passage: occasionally blows out a combat step but surprisingly often underperforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nimbus Swimmer&lt;/a&gt;: I expect X to be 3 or 4 most of the time.  At 1 or 2 it's just not a great mana investment, and having 7 mana or more won't happen most games... though getting a dragon or bigger is always worthwhile.  Maybe the best argument for mana acceleration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sapphire Drake&lt;/a&gt;: It's just a shame that so many games will just be over as soon as this guy gets cast.  'Evolve my two Crocanura, jump them, swing for eight in the air?'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simic Fluxmage&lt;/a&gt;: This actually feels like a trap to me.  Having this available means opponents will seldom have good blocks or attacks, but having to spend mana on it really stunts your development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366419&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Urban Evolution&lt;/a&gt;: You really don't need me to tell you why 'draw three cards' is good, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366417&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wasteland Viper&lt;/a&gt;: Weirdly awkward; the combination of higher toughness and deathtouch is really what you want on a &lt;em&gt;blocker&lt;/em&gt;, not an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ivy Lane Denizen and Evolve:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gotcha I mentioned above is that even if you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; put your Denizen's +1/+1 counter on a creature coming into play, that counter will never count towards evolving something else; for instance, if you have an unevolved Crocanura (1/3) and an Ivy Lane Denizen in play and then play a new Crocanura (1/3), you can put the +1/+1 counter from the Denizen on the new Crocanura but the 2/4 Croc won't let you evolve your 1/3 one (i.e., you can't end up with two 2/4 Crocs).  The reason for this is twofold: (a) Ivy League Denizen's ability is a triggered ability, so it doesn't go on the stack until the creature is in play (the creature enters play as its 'normal' self, not with any +1/+1 counters), and (b) even if you stack the triggers so that Evolve goes on the stack first and resolves last, the condition for evolve (that either power or toughness is higher) is checked &lt;em&gt;when you try to put the triggered ability on the stack&lt;/em&gt; as well as when it resolves - and if the condition is never met, the ability never triggers.  (this is, roughly, rule 603.2 in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20121001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T08:09:25.170" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10910" CreationDate="2013-01-25T17:14:49.353" Score="6" ViewCount="2916" Body="&lt;p&gt;In various flavors of Fluxx, there are Creepers; they all say &quot;You cannot win if you have this card in front of you, unless a card says otherwise.&quot; In Cthulhu Fluxx, there are frequently Goals that have creepers on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a Goal out there that has a Creeper and a Keeper on it, and I have the right Keeper, the right Creeper, and one other Creeper, can I win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T17:21:33.003" Title="Can you win with two creepers when the goal only has one creeper?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10909" CreationDate="2013-01-25T17:21:33.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. The Goal will specify which Creepers are allowed for that Goal to succeed. Any surplus Creepers do not have their &quot;unless a card says otherwise&quot; triggered, so you cannot win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T17:21:33.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10912" CreationDate="2013-01-25T19:53:24.843" Score="7" ViewCount="39012" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a card with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/228#4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bloodrush&lt;/a&gt; in response to something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an evil opponent wants to kill my attacking &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skarrg%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Skarrg Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; with an&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Izzet%20Charm&quot;&gt;Izzet Charm&lt;/a&gt; can I discard &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scorchwalker&quot;&gt;Scorchwalker&lt;/a&gt; and use it's ability to save my guildmage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-07T22:25:50.067" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T22:25:50.067" Title="Can I activate a bloodrush ability at instant speed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10911" CreationDate="2013-01-25T20:17:49.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All activated abilities are at instant speed unless they specifically indicate otherwise*. Because the ability is written with a colon, it is an activated ability. It does not need to be on the battlefield to be activated, and your opponent does not need to know it exists to activate it (although you must reveal it, obviously). In this particular cast, you're discarding the card as part of the cost. That's the only reason you have to discard the card. If it didn't say discard, you could activate the ability as many times as you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is spelled out in 112.3b, emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]&quot; &lt;strong&gt;A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this to the rules text for instants,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;304.1. A player who has priority may cast an instant card from his or her hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the timing for activated abilities is the same as the timing for instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for it being in your hand, this is spelled out here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.2a The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. If an activated ability is being activated from a hidden zone, the card that has that ability is revealed. That ability is created on the stack as an object that's not a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I said specifically indicate otherwise. This specification does not need to be on the card. For example, the Comprehensive Rules state that planeswalker activate abilities can only be activated on your turn at sorcery speed, but this is not stated on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T20:23:56.233" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T20:23:56.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10911" CreationDate="2013-01-25T20:32:42.650" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Bloodrush&amp;quot; has no rules meaning (as indicated by the use of italics), but it's only used on activated abilities (that can be activated from your hand), and you can activate activated abilities whenever you have priority (&amp;quot;instant speed&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]&amp;quot; A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you can activate Bloodrush abilities in response to instants like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Izzet%20Charm&quot;&gt;Izzet Charm&lt;/a&gt;. They will resolve before the instant, so the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scorchwalker&quot;&gt;Scorchwalker&lt;/a&gt; in your hand can save your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skarrg%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Skarrg Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T01:14:26.160" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T01:14:26.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10917" CreationDate="2013-01-25T21:26:55.533" Score="4" ViewCount="11613" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation is similar to wesdfgfgd's question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/10882/245&quot;&gt;MTG Gatecrash Simic Strategies for a Prerelease event&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a habitual Dimir player.  In Gatecrash, many Dimir cards are strongly themed towards their millstone strategy or generating card advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sealed deck, and to a large extent in draft, millstone wins seem hard to pull off.  Many of the capstone cards for this approach are rare, so I probably won't have them.  (Milling is hard in general, and the format makes this kind of one-method-to-win focus inherently unreliable.  To win on turn ten, I'd have to average milling 2.3 cards per turn - while defending myself.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While many Dimir creatures are rather nice for reasons of evasion or card advantage, I'll hardly win with a direct creature approach against Boros or Gruul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking through the non-rare spells with &lt;em&gt;Cipher&lt;/em&gt;, most are two or 4-drops, with a few areas of effect.  Most either generate card advantage (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366407&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Last Thoughts&lt;/a&gt;) or fend for time (Hands of Binding, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt;).  With 18 uncommons I can hardly count on getting enough &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Call of the Nightwing&lt;/a&gt; to token flood the ciphers through, and that's the most aggressive card.  (I don't feel &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366455&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shadow Slice&lt;/a&gt; compares particularly well to a 5-drop creature in a sealed deck format.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can the basic milling approach be made to work?  And if not, where should I be going for the win?  (And which splash colours would help me achieve it?  That decision depends on my draws, obviously, but of the obvious white-splash Orzhov or green-splash Simic, what would you recommend?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(EDIT: This question originally referred to the Gatecrash prerelease, but has been edited to be less time-dependant.  The focus is primarily on sealed, but most answers are probably just as relevant to draft format; answers discussing the differences are particularly welcome.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T19:46:54.893" Title="Is Dimir's milling strategy viable in Gatecrash sealed deck? If not, what can they do instead?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-25T22:04:05.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the prerelease it is going to depend entirely on which cards you get.  In general, I would say no, milling is not going to be a good primary strategy (but may be a decent secondary strategy - try to get lucky and mill out opponent's bombs, pump up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366391&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Consuming Aberration&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any prerelease guild you should build a deck around the cards you get, not the guild.  Your guild pack helps, but if your other packs don't support your guild then abandon it for one that works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone more experienced than I may be able to give more specific advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T22:04:05.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-25T22:30:31.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is enough mill in dimir that I think that it actually can be a decent strategy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, you have to see what cards you get, and if you get enough of them, but if you get enough &lt;strong&gt;mind grind&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Paranoid Delusions&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Psychic Strike&lt;/strong&gt;, among other mill cards, you can actually mill your opponent pretty quick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to hit about 10 lands with the various mind grind like milling to mill them all the way(odds are they'll play the other 6-7) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to remember that &lt;strong&gt;mind sculpt&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;sands of delirium&lt;/strong&gt; was a very real limited paradigm in m13, and know some people who have succeeded with the &lt;strong&gt;axebane guardian&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;doorkeeper&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;gatecreeper vine&lt;/strong&gt; / &lt;strong&gt;trestle troll&lt;/strong&gt; plan.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just think about your mill strategy as a burn strategy, except your opponent has 33 life to start and takes 1 damage per turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T22:30:31.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-25T22:56:48.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it's up to you to figure it out based on your card pool, really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some numbers are handy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the start of the game, your opponent will have at least 33 cards in his or her deck (more if there are mulligans).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each instance of the &amp;quot;mill until you hit a land card&amp;quot; ability will mill something like 2.5 cards on average. That's pretty weak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Dimir does have going for it is that a lot of the milling in this set is attached to other stuff -- the common &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Balustrade%20Spy&quot;&gt;Balustrade Spy&lt;/a&gt; is a feeble mill card but also gives you a 2/3 flyer for a reasonable cost, for instance. And you do have access to some repeatable milling, like the prerelease promo &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Consuming%20Aberration&quot;&gt;Consuming Aberration&lt;/a&gt; and lower-rarity carsd like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Paranoid%20Delusions&quot;&gt;Paranoid Delusions&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sage%27s%20Row%20Denizen&quot;&gt;Sage&amp;#39;s Row Denizen&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undercity%20Informer&quot;&gt;Undercity Informer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duskmantle%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Duskmantle Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think Gatecrash's milling is nearly as explosive as similar decks in Dark Ascension Limited. And Dimir creatures are by far the weakest of all the guilds; if you want to actually play a solid defense, you're likely to need Orzhov or Simic to help you stabilize (Dimir can work well with both those guilds because it offers them the missing component they need to be a control deck -- lots more removal for Simic, countermagic for Orzhov). If I'm mixing guilds like this, though, I'd much rather be trying to win off of cipher+extort than straight-up milling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I just don't think the power cards are there in any capacity. It feels like black in AVR -- you can get a reasonable deck going in draft if no one else is in your colors, but the card pool's pretty thin overall. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/home/pvs-playhouse-choosing-a-guild/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic pro Paulo Vitor Damo da Rosa had this to say about Dimir in Sealed&lt;/a&gt;, for instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means Dimir has a bad promo, a bad Keyrune, an OK Guildmage, an&#xA;OK Charm, horrible rares, horrible uncommons, and horrible commons! To&#xA;top it all, pretty much all of the guild pack’s slots are filled with&#xA;cipher cards, which are not very useful—you want mill cards and&#xA;defensive cards, but those won’t be found in that pack. Unless I&#xA;underrate cipher very much, I’d stay away from Dimir, because it&#xA;doesn’t look like you’ll beat anything but the Orzhov decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, if you want to play the Dimir colors, I think the best&#xA;alternative is an esper deck. You get the milling from Dimir and the&#xA;defense from Orzhov. If this is your plan, then I think the Orzhov&#xA;pack actually offers better cards for you—you lose the Dimir promo,&#xA;which is better, but instead of useless cipher cards you get 1/4&#xA;defenders and regenerating Thrulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-01-25T23:14:26.537" LastActivityDate="2013-01-25T23:14:26.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-26T01:49:51.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I plan on going dimir( pulls allowing) and possibly splashing white for extort, because if you cipher-cast a spell then you have plenty of mana left over for removal and all the extort you want, also, if you play mind grind with consuming abberition out it adds another land to the dig, so all the cars with that effect do it again, and also having more defense is a plus, managing to mill tenish land may not be as dificult as it seems&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4820" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T01:49:51.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10920" CreationDate="2013-01-26T02:31:09.520" Score="3" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt; extension&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Situation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice has the wonder &lt;strong&gt;Olympia (B)&lt;/strong&gt; and builds her 3rd wonder stage (= at the end of the game she can copy a guild card of one of her neighbours).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob plays the &lt;strong&gt;Courtesan's Guild&lt;/strong&gt; and places the &lt;em&gt;Courtesan&lt;/em&gt; token at a leader card of his neighbour Carol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the game, Alice copies Bob's &lt;em&gt;Courtesan's Guild&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What to do?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;{Variant 1}&lt;/strong&gt;: Alice gets another (virtual) &lt;em&gt;Courtesan&lt;/em&gt; token and has to choose a leader card of one of her neighbours herself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;{Variant 2}&lt;/strong&gt;: The leader card chosen by Bob is &quot;imprinted&quot; in the &lt;em&gt;Courtesan's Guild&lt;/em&gt; and therefor Alice copies this leader card by copying the guild. (However, the points for this leader card are calculated as if she would have played it herself)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Follow-up questions if {Variant 2} would be correct&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say Bob would have placed the &lt;em&gt;Courtesan&lt;/em&gt; token at a leader card of Alice instead of Carol. Would Alice get points (if any) for this leader card two times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say there weren't any other leader cards in play when Bob built the &lt;em&gt;Courtesan's Guild&lt;/em&gt;, so he could not use the &lt;em&gt;Courtesan&lt;/em&gt; token. Can Alice &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt; use the token at the end of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Discussion elsewhere&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/814632/olympia-vs-courtesans-guild&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek.com: &lt;strong&gt;Olympia vs. Courtesans' guild&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/651410/olympia-b-stage-3-copying-courtesans-guild&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek.com: &lt;strong&gt;Olympia (B) stage 3 copying Courtesan's Guild?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/832731/courtesans-guild-and-yes-olympia-b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek.com: &lt;strong&gt;Courtesan's Guild (And yes, Olympia B)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T00:11:29.060" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T00:11:29.060" Title="Choose a leader when copying the Courtesan's Guild with Olympia (B)?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10919" CreationDate="2013-01-26T03:28:32.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On boardgamegeek.com, Jacek Deimer says he has &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/10016304#10016304&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;asked Antoine Bauza&lt;/a&gt;, the author of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I chose new leader for the copy or am I forced to copy leader that already has Courteasan Token on it?&#xA;  For example: I copy CG that copies PLATO, will I have to copy PLATO again or can I copy different leader?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antoine's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can copy any Leader from your two neibhourgs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;{Variant 1}&lt;/strong&gt; would be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note however: there is no source to verify that statement)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9748584#9748584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;statement by a Éric Franklin&lt;/a&gt; (credited for &quot;Revision&quot; in the rule book) confirming that the interpretation described in {Variant 1} is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Update (2013-02-18):&lt;/em&gt; Repos Production published an &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, containing this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; With stage 3 of Olympia’s B side, I copy the Guild of Courtesans. Do I then need to copy the effect of the Leader where the Courtesan token is, or do I get my own virtual Courtesan token which I can use as I want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; You get your own virtual courtesan token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T09:00:54.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10922" CreationDate="2013-01-26T04:16:02.713" Score="4" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt; extension (and optionally &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; wonder)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same turn (Alice and Bob are neighbours):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice builds the &lt;strong&gt;Courtesan's Guild&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;→ she can copy a leader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob builds 2nd or 3rd &lt;strong&gt;Roma (B)&lt;/strong&gt; stage (or 1st &lt;strong&gt;Catan (B)&lt;/strong&gt; stage)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;→ he can recruit a leader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Alice place the &lt;em&gt;Courtesan&lt;/em&gt; token on the leader card which Bob recruits in the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T00:09:39.237" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T00:09:39.237" Title="Timing of Roma (B)/Catan (B) and Courtesan's Guild?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10921" CreationDate="2013-01-26T04:16:02.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On boardgamegeek.com, Jacek Deimer says he has &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9994649#9994649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;asked Antoine Bauza&lt;/a&gt; (the game author):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Courtesan Guild is built in the same turn that ROMA/CATAN recruits extra leader, can it copy leader recruited during the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antoine answered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Alice has to choose a leader card to copy (guild card effect) &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; Bob recruits his leader (wonder effect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T04:16:02.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-26T07:09:02.633" Score="3" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend asked me quite a question yesterday. She was trying to remember a game that she saw in a game shop when she was a child, in the 80s-90s. On its cover was a vampire at a table, ready to eat, with two servants bringing plates and one trying to trip the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess by the description of the box that each player tries to bring the vampire's food first, or perhaps as many times as possible, and prevent other players from doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help identify this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T08:00:43.963" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T08:00:43.963" Title="Help identify a game with a vampire and his servants" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2013-01-26T07:19:53.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend another approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player can buy treasury bonds for every country. You play with the countries in which you have a majority of bonds. You can still attack your enemy, but when you do that, remember that someday that country you weaken may be yours because you have more treasury bonds that the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But wait! Don't bother creating a game like that, it already exists. It's called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24181/imperial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imperial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (old European version) or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54138/imperial-2030&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imperial 2030&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (World version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change your thinking for these kind of games, if you play them, though. They are 100% strategy games with absolutely no luck whatsoever, even for the fights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="20289" LastEditDate="2017-05-18T04:24:44.120" LastActivityDate="2017-05-18T04:24:44.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2013-01-26T07:43:32.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using Setup Catan you can select a Standard Starting Setup-up option for most layout. This will usually be based on the rule books from the 4th edition Mayfair sets sold by Amazon in 2009. For Seafarers, there are different defaults for 3-4 plays in the first four scenarios. Most of the provided defaults for combining Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians come from the PDFs available on the official Catan website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was inspired by Better Settlers to create this, but the algorithm used is entirely brute force. It takes the initial base layout and shuffles the tiles, tokens, edges, and/or harbors based the settings you select. The randomized layouts are tested against some basic checks all from the rule books, such as no 6 or 8 adjacent. This 6/8 rule is also considered when including Fishermen tiles. If you have combined all the additional pieces from the various expansions into a single box the parts list can help to set things up quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your original questions with regards to &lt;a href=&quot;http://setupcatan.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Setup Catan&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These starting positions could be considered user recommended by me. I personally made the site and found that it has led to some enjoyable games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would be interested to know what is done for tournament play. This site tries to follow the available rules that I had in print and could find online.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For a more balanced game with some variety we generally shuffle just the hexes and harbor only. This cause the numbers tokens to be laid out according to the spiral alphabet pattern.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are few additional checks that attempt to prevent an unbalanced or boring game. For example on the island scenarios the wood and sheep should be well distributed. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4821" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T07:43:32.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10899" CreationDate="2013-01-26T11:47:52.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that experienced players make more and better use of the market. Make a few decent grabs from it your next game, and players will start making use of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a matter of pointing out that a market draw allows an almost assured increase of a set, with no cash outlay. The value of this is minimal in early rounds, but once one is holding 4+ of a type, if a 5th is in Macao, it's worth getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I played Tuesday last. The other players ignored the 3 wilds that started in the market until I grabbed two of them. Too little, too late; they were masters at bidding, and have a rather unpleasant tendency to gang up on whomever happens to have brought a game. I was unable to win an auction until turn 4... and came in 2nd of 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T11:47:52.700" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10927" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-01-26T17:38:36.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Dominion term for when cards are permanently removed from your deck. There is a wide variety of Dominion cards offering options for trashing, and many strategies depend on the speed of trashing available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Trashers&quot;, cards that provide trashing, are divided into categories:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanilla trashers just trash when they trash (e.g. Chapel, Steward).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash-for-benefit give you something (e.g. Apprentice, Salvager).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remodels let you exchange a card for a better one (e.g. Remodel, Mine, Upgrade).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dark Ages expansion introduced reaction cards that react to &lt;em&gt;being&lt;/em&gt; trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T18:07:47.017" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T18:07:47.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10928" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-01-26T17:38:36.860" Score="0" Body="A Dominion term for when cards are permanently removed from your deck. There is a wide variety of Dominion cards offering options for trashing, and many strategies depend on the speed of trashing available." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T18:07:25.520" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T18:07:25.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11019" CreationDate="2013-01-26T19:18:17.640" Score="2" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;Against a bidding sequence of 1NT, 3NT, partner, West, opens with what looks like the fourth highest of a suit. Dummy goes down with two small cards in the suit. I have four to the king in the suit, two of them little ones, with this question revolving around my second highest card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take the king, which is allowed to hold. If my original holding was something like K642, I was taught to return the 2, my original fourth highest. On the other hand, if my holding were KJ42, with the second card being the J, one is supposed to return the Jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With KJ2, I would return the Jack to &quot;unblock.&quot; Does a similar reasoning hold here with two small cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thought is that partner (West) and declarer (South) probably have the ace and queen between them. If South has Axx, it doesn't matter what I lead, but if South has Qxx, leading the Jack will &quot;trap&quot; the queen. Is that the reason to lead the Jack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point, how high does my second card have to be, before I lead it in preference to the 2? That is, would I also do this with KTxx or K9xx? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-26T22:26:33.477" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T16:51:10.583" Title="When should a bridge defender return the second, rather than fourth highest card in suit?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10932" CreationDate="2013-01-26T19:56:03.153" Score="15" ViewCount="2364" Body="&lt;p&gt;My four-and-a-half year old son is learning chess.  He's got the moves of the pieces down and understands how to checkmate with two rooks (or rook and queen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read some good suggestions in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4897/what-techniques-should-i-use-to-teach-my-5-year-old-to-play-chess&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for how to teach chess other than by playing games.  This question is more concerned with how to make a normal game between the two of us fun for both players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what are some ways that I can handicap myself so that I can play as best I know how, but still not win every game we play?  I've tried starting without some of my pieces, and that seems to work well, but I've read in a couple of places that this is not a good idea -- why?  The other option I've considered but not tried is a very short time limit for my moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I'm hoping for answers that will apply to two adults with varying skill levels as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T09:11:11.070" Title="Methods for handicapping chess" Tags="|chess|teaching|handicap|kids|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-26T21:12:30.243" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's for a model painting competition but I don't know if it fits in with any fluff... Opinions? O.o&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4823" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T21:56:54.250" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T21:56:54.250" Title="Would a duel model between Khadors' Sorcha and Circles' Kaya seem realistic?" Tags="|warmachine|hordes|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10930" CreationDate="2013-01-26T22:22:37.140" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of ways to level the playing field in chess. The two most common methods are &lt;strong&gt;material advantage&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;time odds&lt;/strong&gt;, although there are also a number of more exotic handicaps that one can conceive of (e.g. giving away free moves, requiring a given piece to give checkmate, allowing the King to move two squares, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;em&gt;material handicaps&lt;/em&gt;, you give up some of your pieces, to the advantage of your opponent. This type of handicap has the advantage that it is simple to tune, and can be easily adjusted to correspond to the difference in strength between the two players. This form of odds was very common in earlier centuries, prior to the invention of the chess clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main disadvantage to material handicaps is that a game played with such a handicap is quite different to an equal game. Without a Rook, for example, one cannot castle on that side. Strategic decisions may also be skewed by the weaknesses arising from the missing pieces. For example, you might prefer to focus your efforts on the side of the board missing your opponent's Knight, simply because the piece is absent. In this sense, one can argue that strictly speaking, the game you are playing is &lt;em&gt;chess-like&lt;/em&gt;, but it is no longer chess. So there is a philosophical argument here as well - material handicaps are inelegant, and inherently unfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;em&gt;time handicaps&lt;/em&gt;, a chess clock is used to disproportionately limit the thinking time of one of the players. For example, you might play with only two minutes of time, while your son has, say, 15 minutes. This effectively limits the depth of your thinking, without changing the conditions of the board itself. Time handicaps are preferred among chess players with even a little skill, because they do not change anything about the game itself, and they allow both players to have a satisfying experience. Psychologically, time handicaps feel more fair than arbitrary material adjustments. However, playing against a clock is a skill in itself, as is making effective use of the extra time you have available. This makes time advantages less effective for chess beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recommendations&lt;/strong&gt;: For beginners and children, I would start with material advantage. It's easy to do, and children can easily understand the advantage (&quot;oh, you don't have a Queen!&quot;). As they improve, you can steadily reduce the advantage, until ultimately if all goes well you will be playing on even terms. The problems of material handicaps are just not an issue when you are still learning the basics. Equally important, having more time is not much help without reaching a certain minimal level of competence. You need to know &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; to think about before being given extra time to think is helpful. Once you have a bit more experience, consider moving to using a chess clock with different time limits for each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-01-26T22:22:37.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10942" CreationDate="2013-01-26T23:18:59.697" Score="6" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have fifty different units on the board.  When it's your turn, you get to move each of them.  How do you keep track of which units you've moved already and which ones you haven't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T20:36:44.020" Title="How do you keep track of which units have already moved?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2013-01-27T01:45:38.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any marker token that can be distinguished from the marker tokens (gray/red) already included in the box will do. This could be something as simple as pennies, or other small change, glass beads, wooden cubes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a similar problem with a chariot racing game, so we used coins to mark the hexes that the chariots moved from, just in-case a player changed his mind about a move and wanted to know where their piece started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T01:45:38.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9586" CreationDate="2013-01-27T02:28:33.353" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Press F5 or go to the upper right corner and click Options (the gear) while you are in a Klondike game. The draw and scoring options are under Game Settings, which will either be an option to click or be the option that comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4824" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T02:28:33.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2013-01-27T16:03:14.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm generally a fan of Riichi Mahjong, but what I use for teaching beginners is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mcgillmahjong.blogspot.com/2015/07/a-quick-look-at-mahjong-around-world_31.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Zung Jung&lt;/a&gt;, a very simple and logical ruleset. See the scoring chart &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mahjong.nu/zung-jung-mahjong-summary/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; - it's easy to apply (no &quot;small points&quot; and &quot;multipliers&quot;, only one limit), and the point values are adequate to the effort required for a given pattern. At the same time, you can find most of the commonly used patterns in Chinese and Japanese mahjong, so a transition to a more complicated system shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4825" LastEditorUserId="4825" LastEditDate="2018-12-04T22:49:56.777" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T22:49:56.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="10937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-27T17:54:35.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won my pre-release tournament last night with Dimir.  I did get lucky on some of my pulls (Lazav, Lord of the Void) but Consuming Aberration actually was the hero of the deck-easily finishing off my opponent a couple of turns after playing him.  Psychic strike also saved me a number of times while adding to the mill strategy nicely.  the 2/3 vampire with flying is very handy, and if you attempt this strategy I attempt snagging a few of him, as well as pretty much any rogue in your colors. The one drop rogue is great early damage, the 1/2 blue faerie rogue is a great evasion damage source many people are overlooking, and the unblockable rogues...do I really have to explain that when you've got cipher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, grissly spectacle?  AMAZING.  Best non-rare of my deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4826" LastActivityDate="2013-01-27T17:54:35.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10939" CreationDate="2013-01-27T19:46:15.020" Score="7" ViewCount="23295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the rules for &lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; and the expansions available online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T13:50:08.783" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:50:08.783" Title="Where can I find the rules for 7 Wonders and its expansions?" Tags="|7-wonders|reference|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10938" CreationDate="2013-01-27T19:46:15.020" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can find them on the offical website of &lt;em&gt;Repos Production&lt;/em&gt; (rprod.com):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; base game&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-2&quot;&gt;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-2&lt;/a&gt; (there you can find the &lt;em&gt;Quick Rules&lt;/em&gt;, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_CZ_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Czech (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_DK_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Danish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_NL_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Dutch (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_FIN_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Finnish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_FR_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;French (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_DE_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;German (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_GR_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Greek (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_HU_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Hungarian (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_IT_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Italian (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_JP_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Japanese (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_KOR_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Korean (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_NOR_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Norwegian (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_PL_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Polish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_SL_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Slovak (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_SP_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Spanish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_SW_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;Swedish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt; expansion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-3&quot;&gt;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_LEADERS_RULES_EN_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_LEADERS_RULES_FR_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;French (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_LEADERS_RULES_DE_COLOR.pdf&quot;&gt;German (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cities&lt;/em&gt; expansion&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download&quot;&gt;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_CITIES_RULES_NL.pdf&quot;&gt;Dutch (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_CITIES_RULES_EN.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_CITIES_RULES_FR.pdf&quot;&gt;French (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_CITIES_RULES_DE.pdf&quot;&gt;German (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_CITIES_RULES_JP.pdf&quot;&gt;Japanese (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_CITIES_RULES_SP.pdf&quot;&gt;Spanish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wonder Pack&lt;/em&gt; extension&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-12&quot;&gt;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-12&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/WONDERPACK_RULES_NL.pdf&quot;&gt;Dutch (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/WONDERPACK_RULES_US.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/WONDERPACK_RULES_FR.pdf&quot;&gt;French (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/WONDERPACK_RULES_DE.pdf&quot;&gt;German (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/WONDERPACK_RULES_SP.pdf&quot;&gt;Spanish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; extension&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-18&quot;&gt;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-18&lt;/a&gt; (there you can find the &lt;em&gt;Quick Rules&lt;/em&gt;, too)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-Nl.pdf&quot;&gt;Dutch (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-En.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-FR.pdf&quot;&gt;French (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-De.pdf&quot;&gt;German (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-it.pdf&quot;&gt;Italian (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-Jp.pdf&quot;&gt;Japanese (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-Pl.pdf&quot;&gt;Polish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7W-Babel-Rules-Sp.pdf&quot;&gt;Spanish (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Official FAQ&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/FAQ_USA_7W.pdf&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/7WONDERS_FAQ_FR.pdf&quot;&gt;French (PDF)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T09:09:51.483" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T09:09:51.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5575" CreationDate="2013-01-28T00:36:27.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the professional level, rank differences are very slight. ON AVERAGE, it may take a three or four rank difference in pro rank to equal one stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But ranks are largely a matter of achievements; how many games or tournaments you've won. It could be that a gifted &quot;newcomer&quot; (few victories, hence relatively low rank) is actually stronger than a higher ranking person with a longer record (but maybe lower win PERCENTAGE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T00:36:27.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-28T03:13:08.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of people underestimate the milling power of Dimir. I played Dimir at the prerelease yesterday and milled hard (and likewise got milled myself vs. Dimir). With Consuming Aberration being the promo card for Dimir that means there is a great chance to mill, plus its power and toughness are decided by the amount being milled so it has great stopping power. Thanks to Stolen Identity cyphered onto a Deathcult Rogue I actually had two 17/17 Consuming Aberrations before winning a match. My opponent's removal simply couldn't keep up with another Consuming Aberration appearing each turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with anything this depends on what you pull. Dimir could use more removal but don't underestimate some of the unblockable creatures combined with the cypher ability. Hands of Binding, Stolen Identity, and Voidwalk are all amazing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4828" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T03:13:08.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2013-01-28T07:58:55.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Avoid unnecesary moves in the combat move phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Belive it or not, I found out that the typical source of confusion is that most players move units that are not going to fight (nor Aircraft carriers that won't provide a landing base to attacking airplanes) in the combat move phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not against the rules but.. there is no benefit in doing so. In fact it's much better to wait for the result of the combats to know where to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Never doing that helps a lot: every unit that is not in a combat area, &lt;strong&gt;has not move&lt;/strong&gt; prior to non-combat phase move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The airplane combat nightmare&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens with japan and germany, specially in 1940 editions.  Even though you know that airplanes have moved to the combat zone you need to keep track of the ammount of movement left&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an idea introduced I think in the revised edition: fuel markers.  Simply, have a die or any other thing that can mark from 1 to 5.  When you gather many airplanes in one zone start adding one marker for each airplane, each showing the ammount of movement (fuel) left. Separating of course each kind of airplane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When selecting airplanes casualties simply remove the &lt;strong&gt;lowest&lt;/strong&gt; fuel marker (that's called being a good captain) so you are sacrificing airplanes with the least movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the non combat move phase move the remaining airplanes and each fuel marker shows the movement of any given airplane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Have your enemies pay attention&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a gentlemen's game.  They can tell you what has moved and what not. They know because they are looking at your positions for possible attacks all the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope any of this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T07:58:55.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2013-01-28T10:56:27.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You just flip the unit you've moved on its side. For planes, flip upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T10:56:27.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10946" CreationDate="2013-01-28T14:23:43.937" Score="7" ViewCount="4486" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/pad-campaign-core&quot;&gt;PAD Campaign&lt;/a&gt; is an Asset that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gain 1 [Credit] when your turn begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I allowed to rez it (or other similar Assets such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/adonis-campaign-core&quot;&gt;Adonis Campaign&lt;/a&gt;) before the start of my turn so I can benefit from it immediately and not give the runner a chance to react to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that I can rez it after any action by either player, and that includes the last action of the runner's turn. Am I right in thinking this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T09:03:06.897" Title="Can I rez PAD Campaign before my turn starts?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10947" CreationDate="2013-01-28T14:29:38.320" Score="3" ViewCount="3217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The boss has flipped the gold card with a path card. The path there was blocked by both a green and a blue card. We had one profiteur, a blue dwarf, a green dwarf, a sabotuer and a boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who wins and how much gold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6675274#6675274&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; with an answer to a different question by the creator of the game, where it states that the boss would get 4 points but I am still confused, I can't find it anywhere on the rules how the boss would get 4 points from this situation.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;More than that, what if the profiteer flips the gold card, what happens then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT : I'm still confused.&lt;/strong&gt; Rules say that if ONLY ONE dwarf wins, he wins 5 gold, if 2 dwarves win, then it's 4 gold each. Why does he win 4 gold? Does the profiteer also win if he is the one flipping the gold card? How much? Do they both get 4 gold each? 5 gold to boss and 3 to profiteer or what?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT2 :&lt;/strong&gt; So if I have a blue dwarf, a boss and a profiteer in the game, there's just 1 dwarf counted as winner, that's 5 gold for him, 4 for boss and 3 for profiteer. But if I have just a boss and a profiteer, if any of them flip the gold card, then it's 2 winners and they get 3 - boss and 2 - profiteer? In conclusion when there's no dwarves to get to the gold, boss and profiteer are both counted as winning dwarves regardless, but when there are colored dwarves, then these two are not included as winners? I don't even want to include geologists in these situation..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that you can interpret these rules as you want and that's a huge slip from the creator. I for one, agree that if neither saboteurs or colored dwarves get to the gold, then noone gets anything (except geologists where it's clear what they get). This messy slip up can &lt;strong&gt;REALLY ruin friendships&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4829" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T09:25:54.997" Title="What if the boss or the profiteur connect to the gold?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-10T23:14:17.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10944" CreationDate="2013-01-28T14:47:56.207" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the revised timing diagram from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Netrunner FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, it shows a chance to rez cards just before the corp's &quot;Start of turn effects trigger&quot;. So yes, you can rez these assets just before the start of your turn and take advantage of the benefit immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can rez the PAD Campaign after the runner's last action, just before they discard cards, or just before you draw a card, and still gain the credit. It seems best to rez on your turn so if they have to discard they do so not knowing that your asset was a PAD Campaign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T09:03:06.897" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T09:03:06.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10945" CreationDate="2013-01-28T15:35:42.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's clear that the rules are a little badly worded.  They say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Boss builds tunnels for both the Green and the Blue Team and wins&#xA;  every time one of the teams wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the game's creator has made it clear that in the corner case, where the path is completed but both the Blue and Green teams are blocked by a door, the Boss wins anyway (even though it is not true that &quot;one of the teams wins&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the Profiteer wins in this situation too - the Profiteer ALWAYS wins, after all...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6928/what-happens-if-you-reach-an-end-card-with-both-doors&quot;&gt;old question&lt;/a&gt; - in fact now I read that, I'm a bit worried that this question may count as a duplicate...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: I think if one dwarf wins, they get 5 Gold.  If one dwarf wins and he's the Boss, he gets 4 Gold.  If two dwarves win, and they're the Boss and the Profiteer, they would get 4 gold each, minus their respective &quot;job penalties&quot;: so 3 Gold for the boss and 2 Gold for the profiteer.  Seems like a reasonable interpretation of the creator's assertion that the Boss winning on his own gets 4 Gold (assuming he didn't just pluck that figure out of thin air...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I'd say that the &quot;1 or 2 less than the other winners get&quot; (for the boss and profiteer) is another sloppily worded piece of rules.  &quot;1 or 2 less than they would otherwise get&quot; would be a better way of putting it.  If the Profiteer won on his own, for example, he'd get 3 Gold (5-2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T16:53:39.907" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7650" CreationDate="2013-01-28T18:35:14.960" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago at Prezcon, I won 4 (out of 4) games using a straight Bureaucrat - Mine strategy.  I don't specifically remember if there was or wasn't a trashing action card available, but if there was, I didn't use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, there &lt;strong&gt;was&lt;/strong&gt; a trashing action in the final, and I didn't use it, and I got trounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &quot;vital&quot;?  Not at all.  &quot;Valuable strategy&quot;?  Typically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T18:35:14.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-01-28T20:17:13.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do think Dimir (with lucky pulls/correct picks) can be the dominant force in draft or sealed now...however, my opponent in the finals ran simic and splashed red for gruul, and he was a force to be reckoned with.  My belief about Gatecrash at this time, is that if your cards aren't allowing for Dimir, that red/blue/green is obviously your second best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boros got slaughtered at my event...infact I never played a boros opponent because they all fell to the losers bracket almost immediately.  they simply don't have enough momentum to make use of battalion-especially with the multitude of affordable removal in this set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Orzhov is deadly, no doubt about it, but if you are running black or white at all, I found a couple of extort creatures on your side of the board can balance the scales enough against an Orzhov opponent...enough so that you get them before they get you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4833" LastActivityDate="2013-01-28T20:17:13.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10951" CreationDate="2013-01-29T03:37:42.273" Score="4" ViewCount="409" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had an interesting scenario.  I processioned a Madman, which we thought would give me +4 actions and +6 cards (I had three in my hand, so draw three twice).  Was that the correct play when using the procession card, or does the madman action end after the first play, netting me  +2 actions and +3 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T10:26:05.453" Title="Processioning a Madman" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10950" CreationDate="2013-01-29T04:15:53.190" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do exactly what it says on the card, in the order it says it. So: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procession says you may play an action card from your hand twice. You pick Madman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play Madman once. You get +2 actions, and then return it to the Madman pile. If you do, +1 card per card in your hand - you did, so +3 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play Madman a second time. You get +2 actions again, and try to return it to the Madman pile, but you can't - it's already there. If you do, +1 card per card in your hand - you didn't, so you don't get any cards. (This kind of situation is exactly why it says &quot;if you do&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procession says to trash the action card - but you can't, since you don't have it anymore. Oh well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Procession says to gain an action card costing exactly one more than it - you try to do this, but the Madman costs zero, and there probably isn't anything that costs 1, so you don't gain anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So adding up: you get +4 actions, +3 cards, and the Madman is back in the pile. (That wasn't one of your suggestions.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T04:15:53.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10954" CreationDate="2013-01-29T04:34:49.743" Score="13" ViewCount="3166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice has &lt;strong&gt;Babylon (B)&lt;/strong&gt;, Bob has &lt;strong&gt;Halicarnassus (B)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice has built the 2nd wonder stage, so she is able to play her 7th card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 6th turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob builds a stage of his wonder, so he is able to build one card from the discard pile at the end of the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice builds her 6th card and wants to discard her 7th for 3 coins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Alice's card gets added to the discard pile &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; Bob is allowed to see through it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: Does Alice get a &quot;real&quot; 7th turn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We already discussed (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/8039/3532&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5140/3532&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) that Alice doesn't have to buy resources for her 6th and 7th card from the same set (so she can buy the same resources again for her 7th card that she bought for her 6th card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Discussion elsewhere&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/776786/halikarnassos-and-babylon-interaction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek.com: &lt;strong&gt;Halikarnassos and Babylon Interaction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T02:26:17.743" Title="Timing of Babylon's (B) and Halicarnassus' special abilities?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10950" CreationDate="2013-01-29T10:26:05.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In sum, +4 actions and +3 cards. When you first return madman, it is not in your hand anymore, hence you cannot return it the second time or trash it after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why: See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_421_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In rare circumstances an effect may try to move a card that is not where that effect expects the card&#xA;  to be. In those cases the card does not move - the effect has &quot;lost track&quot; of the card. Losing track of&#xA;  a card prevents it from being moved, but does not stop anything else from happening&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And after that there's the exact example of playing procession on a madman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T10:26:05.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10952" CreationDate="2013-01-29T13:05:04.180" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Babylon has a clarification in the rules that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clariﬁcation :&#xA;  - during the sixth turn, the player can therefore play both cards they have in hand. If the second stage of the Wonder is not built, the&#xA;  Babylon player can then build it on their sixth turn and then play the&#xA;  seventh card instead of discarding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Halicarnassus has the following clarification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clariﬁcation : this special action is taken at the end of the turn in&#xA;  which the stage is built. If players discard cards on that turn (for&#xA;  example, during the 6th turn of an age), the player can also choose&#xA;  from among those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say from that that Babylon's power basically all happens &quot;during the sixth turn&quot;, and so Halicarnassus can take advantage of any of Babylon's discards.  There isn't really a ghostly extra seventh turn getting created by Babylon's Wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T13:05:04.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10959" CreationDate="2013-01-29T15:58:15.820" Score="2" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets assume that I equip an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366426&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illusionist's Bracers&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mayor%20Of%20Avabruck&quot;&gt;Mayor Of Avabruck&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When he flips on the trigger of not casting a spell, can he technically flip twice, meaning that he would turn into a werewolf and then back again, or does he remain as a werewolf permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:50:17.093" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:51:26.127" Title="Illusionist's bracers and werewolf rulings" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10957" CreationDate="2013-01-29T16:17:50.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mayor of Avabruck doesn't have any activated abilities, so I fear this is a bit of a nonbo.  Equipping him with Illusionist's Bracers won't usually do much...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like Civilized Scholar may reap you greater rewards.  If you activate HIS ability you will indeed get to use it twice (and transform to Homicidal Scholar and back again straight away.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T16:17:50.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10957" CreationDate="2013-01-29T16:18:18.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366426&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Illusionist's Bracers&lt;/a&gt; only copy &lt;em&gt;activated&lt;/em&gt; abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most transform cards, like werewolves and Delver of Secrets, have &lt;em&gt;triggered&lt;/em&gt; abilities. Illusionist's Bracers have no effect on them. They will, however, double the activated abilities of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodline%20Keeper&quot;&gt;Bloodline Keeper&lt;/a&gt;, causing it to flip twice when it transforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the abilities of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mayor%20of%20Avabruck&quot;&gt;Mayor of Avabruck&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howlpack%20Alpha&quot;&gt;Howlpack Alpha&lt;/a&gt; abilities are triggered, so he won't benefit from Illusionist's Bracers unless you give him an activated ability from an outside source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:51:26.127" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:51:26.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-29T18:32:27.097" Score="7" ViewCount="1481" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do the +cards work in Dominion? Do you have to draw the card immediately or can you wait?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's take the Spy cards where it says +1 cards, and then all players must reveal the top card of their deck, you decide whether they discard it or put the card on top of the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of now, I'm doing the latter before the +card label, as it lets me see the card I might draw or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-29T18:59:44.547" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T19:19:18.933" Title="+Cards, do you have to draw right away?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10960" CreationDate="2013-01-29T18:43:30.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do the actions on the card in the order it says.  So in the case of a spy, the +1 card comes first, so you draw a card.  Then all players reveal their top cards and that part of the Spy is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T18:43:30.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10960" CreationDate="2013-01-29T19:07:00.060" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;YES&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must draw right away.&#xA;Page 6 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Common terms used on the Action cards:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;+X Card(s)&amp;quot; – the player immediately draws X number of cards from his&#xA;Deck. If there are not enough cards in his Deck, he draws as many as he&#xA;can, shuffles the Discard pile to form a new Deck, and then draws the&#xA;rest. If he still does not have enough cards left after forming a new Deck,&#xA;he just draws as many as he can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; draw the cards. You cannot wait to draw the cards after you have performed the other phases of your turn, or perform other actions on the card after the &amp;quot;+X Cards&amp;quot; line before drawing the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note your specific example is clarified in the rules on page 7 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spy – Spy causes all players, including the one who played it, to&#xA;reveal the top card of their Deck. &lt;strong&gt;Note that you draw your card&#xA;for playing Spy before any cards are revealed.&lt;/strong&gt; Anyone who does&#xA;not have any cards left in their Deck shuffles in order to have&#xA;something to reveal. Anyone who still has no cards to reveal&#xA;doesn't reveal one. If players care about the order in which&#xA;things happen for this, you do yourself first, then each other&#xA;player in turn order. Revealed cards that aren't discarded are&#xA;returned to the top of their players' Decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T19:07:00.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2013-01-29T19:15:41.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personnaly, I think Europe is a lot underestimate, but it's a great continent to start with if you can win it early, 3-4 turn. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the bonus for unit pretty high&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at the start, people tend to forget about you and will elave you in peace, that can gain you 1 or even 2 turn to get control of the continent if you play it right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the number of territories is interesting, you don't need a lot more to get the 12 teritories bonus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 border to defend seems high but 3 are connected, meaning you can easily move 1 unit from one to the other at the fortify phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and finally, one of the thing people tend to forget, is that you have access to 3 more continents, huge one. Meaning you can control yours and prevent others from controlling big continents.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T19:15:41.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10960" CreationDate="2013-01-29T19:19:18.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; claify this in several places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(page 6) To play an Action, the player takes an Action card from his hand [...] and follows the instructions written on the card from top to bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(page 6) &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;+X Card(s)&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; - the player immediately draws X number of cards from his Deck. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(page 7, First Few Turns guide) &lt;strong&gt;Spy&lt;/strong&gt; - Spy causes all players, including the one who played it, to reveal the top card of their Deck. Note that you draw your card for playing Spy befoe any cards are revealed. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 7 covers how other '+' cards differ from +Card kingdom cards. Notably, the +Card instructions must be performed immediately, where the other cards bank those additional Actions, Buys, and Coins for use at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T19:19:18.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10903" CreationDate="2013-01-29T22:10:41.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(1) layout, or possibly deal; (2) replacement; (3) the cards [on the table]; (4) calling 'Set'; and (5) variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with these terms. You might add another for the Sets each player holds until scoring at the end of a round. Per the rules of Set, in the scoring portion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The number of 'Sets' held by each player are then counted, one point is given for each and added to their score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though if you simply score in real time, you may not need this mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4805" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T22:10:41.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10931" CreationDate="2013-01-29T22:26:26.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will interpret the question as, is there anything in the game rules that would preclude modeling these two figures in combat with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played this one but given my understanding of what's allowed and what's not from various codex-based miniatures games this seems like a plausible pairing. Sorcha is a warcaster (&lt;a href=&quot;https://battlecollege.wikispaces.com/Sorscha&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://battlecollege.wikispaces.com/Sorscha&lt;/a&gt;) and Kaya is a warlock (&lt;a href=&quot;https://battlecollege.wikispaces.com/mkiiKaya&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://battlecollege.wikispaces.com/mkiiKaya&lt;/a&gt;) from armies that can and will clash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find in published blogs first person accounts of battles involving both personalities, supporting the view that the two of them actually meeting in close quarters could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4805" LastActivityDate="2013-01-29T22:26:26.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T02:06:08.240" Score="6" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a deck where the only win condition I'm trying to win the first few turns. Would I want this deck to have a different number of lands than a control deck that is looking to win later in the game? An extra land or two could help me play my spells more quickly, but it would also mean that I would have fewer spells to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any general conclusions be made about the number of lands in an aggro deck vs. a control deck? Or is it so dependent on the deck and format that this is impossible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T03:14:47.337" Title="Does the fact that my deck is aggro mean I should add or remove land?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2013-01-30T02:21:51.200" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally it's less about whether your deck is aggressive or not than what your deck's &lt;em&gt;mana curve&lt;/em&gt; looks like - the two are very closely correlated, but they're not necessarily the same thing!  It's probably  fair to say that the 'average' deck through Magic's history has run about 24 lands, with aggressive decks a little lighter and control decks a little heavier - but with quite a bit of variance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By and large, the rule is 'the lower your curve, the fewer lands you need' - for instance, the very mana-hungry Esper control decks in Standard (which generally want to be able to hit their first seven or eight mana drops so they can cast Sphinx's Revelation for a lot) will run 26 lands or even 27, whereas aggressive and low-curve red decks often drop down to about 22 lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example of a deck that's not specifically an agressive deck but still runs land-light, look at the so-called &lt;em&gt;aggro-control&lt;/em&gt; decks whose goal is to try and get just one or two threats out there and then proactively protect them and which run very low land counts.  Some of the versions of Delver decks in the pre-Return to Ravnica standard environment are a perfect example of this; they were shaving down to 19 or 20 lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gitaxian Probe Delver decks (and similar tempo decks in formats like Legacy) also showcase another factor: the more cheap (and particularly 1-mana) card drawing spells a deck run, the more it can shave its land counts.  This is because by playing card draw spells it'll almost always be able to cast, the deck is effectively running one or two more 'virtual' lands - but note that this can be dangerous, because turns that would normally be spent playing threats often have to be spent searching for additional mana instead.  (And this explains why Probe in particular was so strong, since it didn't stunt development in this way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor is whether a deck can make good use of 'land spells' or not.  A card like Nephalia Drownyard, for instance, isn't just a mana source to let a control player cast Supreme Verdict or Sphinx's Revelation 'on time', it's also a win condition for the deck, and so it encourages 'overloading' the land count since it doesn't diminish the threat density (which is the usual hazard of running too many lands).  Even more aggressive decks can take advantage of utility lands to boost their count while still keeping plenty of action; cards like Hellion Crucible, Kessig Wolf Run and Gavony Township are perfect examples of this kind of effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T02:21:51.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2013-01-30T02:40:00.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, no. There doesn't seem to be any normal range for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/sideboard/article.asp?x=sb20001005a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;aggro decks&lt;/a&gt; versus &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mf61&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;control decks&lt;/a&gt; (not to mention combo decks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/760&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;dredge&lt;/a&gt; that run little to no land). Famous aggro decks have run anywhere between &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/ash24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;20-25 land&lt;/a&gt;, and Control runs about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T02:40:00.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10981" CreationDate="2013-01-30T02:49:45.213" Score="15" ViewCount="3109" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; you add cards to the game depending on the number of players. So (for example) a 3 player game probably plays somewhat differently than a 5 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the most important &quot;facts&quot; for a game with 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 players? And how could I remember them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which building types (military, civilian, scientific, raw materials, manufactured goods, commercial, &lt;s&gt;guilds&lt;/s&gt;) are rare, which are common?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is a science strategy easy/hard?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When are there enough military structures for everyone, when not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which resources are rare/common?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When is it viable to try to bury certain resource cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;…&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T00:03:43.560" Title="What are the important differences for games with 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 players?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10967" CreationDate="2013-01-30T03:14:47.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a bullet-point list of things to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What's your curve look like?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/7589&quot;&gt;Which spells do you absolutely need to play &quot;on time&quot;&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does your deck have a way to look at more cards than one per turn (e.g. card filtering or card draw)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you win if you &quot;brick&quot; a few times, drawing lands you don't need?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do you have a use for &quot;excess&quot; land cards or other mana sources?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally aggro decks end up running fewer lands than other decks because they have lower curves. Now, yes, being able to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHellrider%5d&quot;&gt;Hellrider&lt;/a&gt; on turn 4 is important, but missing it is not nearly as devastating as drawing land after land after land when you just need to topdeck a burn spell or creature to finish your opponent. Nor to do you want to have to mulligan just because there's not enough &quot;business&quot; in your initial hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T03:14:47.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8124" CreationDate="2013-01-30T07:32:04.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just built a prototype for a card game.  Since I was not using any art, I ordered the printing of the cards on those small business cards.  They are thick and sturdy enough to last a long while and easy to shuffle too.&#xA;The most of the card rules are common, so, not a lot of text needed to be on the cards them selves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4839" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T07:32:04.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10973" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10974" CreationDate="2013-01-30T10:07:28.937" Score="0" ViewCount="2763" Body="&lt;p&gt;My reason for asking is I believe the promotion to be instant: As the pawn's toe crosses the line into the square, it transforms into the promotion piece's toe...&#xA;Meaning that even though the route was blocked for a pawn, the promotion to a queen (for example) would allow the move to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4840" LastActivityDate="2019-03-03T10:44:13.867" Title="Can a pawn move to the last line in chess as part of a promotion even if the square is blocked by an opponent's piece?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10973" CreationDate="2013-01-30T10:24:34.040" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. A pawn gains no special movement rules when on the penultimate rank. Often in end-games the opposing King will be in front of the pawn to prevent it from being promoted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T10:24:34.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-01-30T15:19:37.110" Score="6" ViewCount="5652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just recently regained interest in MtG and was overwhelmed by the quantity of new collections and the amount of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stopped playing MtG when the Fallen Empires expansion was just out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things that pops up immediately when browsing the cards (aside from the numerous new mechanisms) is that there's a lot of multicolor cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the old days, building a deck of more then one color was very hard, and in most cases it involved playing at least green because of Birds of Paradise (BoP). In terms of tactics this was very limiting, since green used to be the way for cheap creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it seems pretty much every combination of color is a viable tactic. Is that true? Or, are there still some colors that work better together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing; I used to stick very stubbornly to a 60 cards maximum deck size, with two copies of most cards (except lands), and four copies for some very useful cards (one example was Giant Growth when playing green). Do cards now exist that help the probability of running the deck fluidly, rendering obsolete my stubornness for requiring no more than a 60 card deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T16:26:07.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T14:48:57.617" Title="Are multicolor decks in any color combination viable in modern Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10975" CreationDate="2013-01-30T15:58:44.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Running 60 is still the best plan. You have the highest likelihood of drawing into your best cards when you have fewer cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as seeing more multi-color, right now we're in a multi-color block. Retrun to Ravnica (RTR)and Gatecrash (GTC) each feature five of the ten Ravnica guilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now in current standard are the ten 'shocklands', lands that come into play tap unless you pay two life and can tap for two colors (in RTR and GTC), for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Crypt&quot;&gt;Blood Crypt&lt;/a&gt;; a cycle in M13 of allied dual lands which come into play tapped unless you control a land type that it taps for, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glacial%20Fortress&quot;&gt;Glacial Fortress&lt;/a&gt;, and a cycle of enemy dual lands which do the same from Innistrad, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Isolated%20Chapel&quot;&gt;Isolated Chapel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dual lands are the primary source of mana fixing. RTR and GTC also released gates, which are dual lands at common that always enter the battlefield tapped. These are typically considered too slow for standard constructed play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green is still considered the fixer color, granted access to tools like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caravan%20Vigil&quot;&gt;Caravan Vigil&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbor%20Elf&quot;&gt;Arbor Elf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avacyn%27s%20Pilgrim&quot;&gt;Avacyn&amp;#39;s Pilgrim&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Farseek&quot;&gt;Farseek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mulch&quot;&gt;Mulch&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ranger%27s%20Path&quot;&gt;Ranger&amp;#39;s Path&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seek%20the%20Horizon&quot;&gt;Seek the Horizon&lt;/a&gt;, or if you have insane mana already like perhaps in a Commander game, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boundless%20Realms&quot;&gt;Boundless Realms&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; have rotated out of standard. They aren't usually out for long, so we stand a chance to see them in 2014, but honestly with all the fixing in right now, they aren't as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your question of &amp;quot;pretty much every combination of color is a viable tactic&amp;quot; you could make that argument. Each two color combination has a Ravnica guild, and half of the three color combinations have an Alara shard. Each of the Ravnica guilds is seemingly viable in standard, although many of them do have a third splash color. There are fewer monocolor top decks right now just because the set is so focused on multicolor decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other formats have different archetypes. There is no single Commander deck that is winning everyone's hearts and minds. Jund (and to some extent, Storm) is completely dominating Modern to the extent that the DCI just banned two cards, one core to each deck, to level the playing field a little. Legacy and Vintage I don't follow enough to really comment on, but I'll say as far as I know there are no dominating color patterns there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T15:58:44.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10980" CreationDate="2013-01-30T16:18:48.480" Score="2" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created this card recently and just want to make sure that it's balanced and that its ability is worded correctly/functionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wojek Lionheart&lt;/strong&gt; (1)RW&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Creature - Human Soldier [Uncommon]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  First strike&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Wojek Lionheart may block while tapped and blocks each turn if able.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;&quot;The people may rise against us, but that does not excuse me of my oath to defend them.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2/1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way to word that second ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4841" LastEditorUserId="4841" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T18:55:31.873" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:13:06.380" Title="Is this card worded correctly and balanced?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2013-01-30T18:05:14.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First strike is written as &lt;em&gt;First strike&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;First Strike&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, &quot;Wojek Lionheart may block while tapped and blocks each turn if able&quot; matches more with other 'must attack/block' creatures such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=72999&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Razorgrass Screen&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3764" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T18:05:14.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10975" CreationDate="2013-01-30T18:15:07.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said in a comment, I would dispute the very premise of this post &amp;mdash; not only have there been tournament-viable multicolor decks for as long as there have been Magic tournaments, but I would say that over Magic's history it's more often been the case that a multicolored deck &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; (one of) the best in the format than that it hasn't.  (The three exceptions that come to mind are the Buehler-style mono-Blue control decks in post-bannings Tempest/Urza standard, the mono-Black 'Napster' control deck that won the world championship a couple of years later, and various flavors of mono-red decks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One deckbuilding principle that's been fairly consistent throughout Magic's history is the 'power splash': stretching your mana base a little bit to include one or two cards that provide an effect you couldn't get otherwise.  Brian Weissman's inclusion of Demonic Tutor and Mind Twist into his otherwise pure Blue/White control deck is a good example of this; modern versions include a very similar idea, UW control decks splashing just a little Black to be able to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ultimate%20Price&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ultimate Price&lt;/a&gt; to destroy early creatures and (most importantly) activate &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Drownyard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nephalia Drownyard&lt;/a&gt; as the deck's primary (uncounterable and hard-to-destroy) win condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the state of tournament Magic right now, one good resource for checking out what decks are doing well (at least in a particular metagame) are the current winning decks on Magic Online, which you can find in a sidebar on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Digital/magiconline.aspx?x=mtg/digital/magiconline/whatshappening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;What's Happening&quot;&lt;/a&gt; page on Wizards' Magic Online site.  From a cursory examination of that you can find that mono-Red decks are still doing well, but so are White/Green/Black reanimator decks, and Blue/White control decks (often splashing a little bit of Black), and Red/Green/Black midrange decks with lots of value creatures, and White/Green/Blue decks, either pure control or with lots of acceleration into larger creatures, and White/Green/Red decks also on the big-guys plan, and Green beatdown decks splashing a little Black, and a Green/Blue/White 'enchantments' deck, and... well, you get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T18:15:07.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10977" CreationDate="2013-01-30T18:48:46.040" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the way you have the ability worded is 'proper', normally they give a creature this mechanic in the form of &lt;em&gt;Vigilance&lt;/em&gt;. In this way, the card may be tapped by some external source and then made unable to block, but will not be unable to block because he attacked last turn (which is the most common reason he would become tapped). To have a creature that cannot be evaded by tapping him significantly increases his power level, but as noted in the comments greatly increases his complexity. I find it hard to justify the complexity increase for the increase gained when such an elegant alternative exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a related note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being attack heavy is very much red's thing. It is part of red's color pie to force opponents to block (flavor wise, that's being so aggressive they simply must defend themselves), not very much in red's color pie to block themselves. Simply put, red is not a very block-happy color. Boros (the guild of this card) is very haste heavy,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would compare your card to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Truefire%20Paladin&quot;&gt;Truefire Paladin&lt;/a&gt; if you're looking for recent examples of similar creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as tweaking it to make it red, I would do one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it cost RW and make it &lt;em&gt;First strike&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;vigilance&lt;/em&gt;, ~ attacks each turn if able. ~ blocks each turn if able.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it &lt;em&gt;First strike&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;vigilance&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;haste&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: adding red does not encourage it to block. Adding red would make it much less likely to be able to block. If you want to keep the tap-blocking mechanic, I would make it cost 1WW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2013-01-30T23:13:06.380" LastActivityDate="2013-01-30T23:13:06.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10970" CreationDate="2013-01-31T02:15:23.933" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/691370/some-complex-strategies-for-7-wonders&quot;&gt;This article on BGG&lt;/a&gt; is probably the definitive guide on differences with different player counts. To summarize some of its points here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4p features the most basic (brown) resources per player of any player count. You can wait to draft what you need. By contrast, 3p and 7p have the least resources per player, and in those games you should draft the resource-granting cards you need immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4p features the fewest advanced (gray) goods per player; 3p and 6p features the most; 5p has an average number, but they are concentrated in Age 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are the most science (green) cards per player in 3p, followed by 4p. There are the fewest at 6p. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In 3p and 7p, the three science symbols are evenly distributed. In 5p, the symbols are evenly distributed, but there are fewer gears early and more later on. In 4p, there are 6 total tablet cards, 5 compasses, and only 4 gears!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In 3p and 4p, there is exactly one military (red) card per player per Age. In 5p, there is one extra in Age 3. In 6p and 7p, there is one red card &quot;missing&quot; in Age 1, but extras in Ages 2 and 3, and overall more shields total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is only one of the powerful Caravansery cards (the yellow wild basic resource card) in 3-4p. One is added in 5p and 6p.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is only one Forum card (the yellow wild advanced goods card) in 3-5p. One is added in 6p and 7p.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blue cards are always good and you can never have too many.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T00:03:43.560" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T00:03:43.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10984" CreationDate="2013-01-31T03:01:06.980" Score="14" ViewCount="4337" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, when you cast a spell without paying its mana cost, the {X} in its mana cost is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Grind&quot;&gt;Mind Grind&lt;/a&gt;, however, has an additional restriction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X can't be 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly you can't &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; for {X} to be zero when you cast it normally. But what happens if you don't get to choose, e.g. when you cascade into Mind Grind or cast it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Epic%20Experiment&quot;&gt;Epic Experiment&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:47:38.050" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:47:38.050" Title="What happens when the {X} in Mind Grind *is* zero?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2013-01-31T03:37:53.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cascade into Mind Grind, you're simply not allowed to cast it.  Cascade is a 'may' effect, and so is Epic Experiment.  The situation is essentially identical to revealing something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=flame%20slash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flame Slash&lt;/a&gt; (4 damage to target creature) with no creatures in play &amp;mdash; since the spell can't be played without a legal target (or in Mind Grind's case, can't be played with an X of 0), it's just never cast.  In the case of Cascade, this means that Mind Grind will be one of the cards put on the bottom of your library; in the case of Epic Experiment, it means it will be put in your graveyard without having been cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T03:37:53.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10982" CreationDate="2013-01-31T04:11:48.710" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must choose zero for X, but you can't choose zero for X, so you can't cast the spell. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Epic%20Experiment&quot;&gt;Epic Experiment&lt;/a&gt; doesn't force you to cast anything (&amp;quot;may cast&amp;quot;), so it will be moved to the graveyard by the later part of Epic Experiment's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.3b If a player is casting a spell that has an {X} in its mana cost, the value of X isn’t defined by the text of that spell, and an effect lets that player cast that spell while paying neither its mana cost nor an alternative cost that includes X, &lt;strong&gt;then the only legal choice for X is 0&lt;/strong&gt;. This doesn’t apply to effects that only reduce a cost, even if they reduce it to zero. See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can’t happen, &lt;strong&gt;the “can’t” effect takes precedence&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. Casting a spell follows the steps listed below, in order. &lt;strong&gt;If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast&lt;/strong&gt; (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”). Announcements and payments can’t be altered after they’ve been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see these rules applied by an official source in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4698&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oracle rulings for Ertai's Meddling&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10/4/2004     Ertai's Meddling can't be cast through any way that doesn't&#xA;pay its mana cost. This is because the X in the Meddling's mana cost&#xA;can't be 0, but effects that allow spells to be cast without paying&#xA;their mana costs set X to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T19:19:32.833" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T19:19:32.833" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2013-01-31T16:36:50.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear with me here, I'm new so I'm not sure it's the best place but I just find your situation 3 a very interesting premise for a new way of playing 7 Wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've never encountered a situation where someone couldn't play a card that happens he could play it because of a new reveal card from a neighbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, allowing this kind of dynamic you could had a great deal of bluff to the game especially with smaller groups (3 or 4 players). Since you know after 3-4 rounds what cards are in your neighbors hands you could anticipate the cards they might play and play something you couldn't. On the other hand, your neighbors would be in the same situation and could adjust their strategy to prevent you from playing your card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could be interesting to give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-01-31T17:00:20.697" LastActivityDate="2013-01-31T17:00:20.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10988" CreationDate="2013-02-01T05:09:06.313" Score="5" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if any game designers have used an online implementation of a game to balance and tweak it before commercial release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="322" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T16:07:23.203" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T04:24:07.300" Title="Has online play testing been an important part of any boardgame designs?" Tags="|game-design|online|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="10996" CreationDate="2013-02-01T07:58:57.263" Score="6" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two-player cribbage, when the pone is dealt a hand that includes a run and a 5+pair (e.g. 3,4,5,6,Q,Q) is it better to keep the run (3,4,5,6) or the 5+pair (_,5,Q,Q)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like there should be a statistically optimal play here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the specific example above, either choice leaves the pone 6 points, but the run has a chance of improving to a double run (12 out of the remaining 46 cards) and is improved by 24 other cards (2s, 7s, Ts, Js, Qs, Ks). The main downside of that play is it concedes a pair to the dealer. On the other hand, the 5+pair can improve through any 5, Q, or ten-value card. If the connecting 6 is kept, it can also improve through a 4 or 7. Overall, there are 24 cards that improve that hand. It also concedes a 3,4 to the dealer - which seems less likely to give the dealer points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition is to keep the run, but a mathematically sound analysis of expected value would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. For the purposes of this question, we can ignore the exact position of the players, and assume it's somewhere mid game (as opposed to really close to the end where pegging considerations become more important).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4850" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T14:53:36.910" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T18:52:27.300" Title="Cribbage pone strategy for hands involving a run and a pair" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2013-02-01T13:43:25.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure &quot;Day and Night&quot; was tested online before release. But the online game was only limited to a small beta testing audience. The website used to say that the online version would reappear at some point, but the website is now dead and the developers appear to have vanished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Day and Night is an asymmetric game, getting the two sides balanced is important, and the developers claimed that they were very close to 50:50 based on online testing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T14:19:12.310" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T14:19:12.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10987" CreationDate="2013-02-01T14:47:34.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So using some statistics, lets see what happens!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping 45QQ is the best chance if you want to keep the pair.&#xA;Aces(4): +2; Twos(4): +0; Threes(3): +3; Fours(3): +2; Fives(3): +6; Sixes(3): +5; Sevens(4): +0; Eights(4): +0; Nines(4): +0; Tens(4): +2; Jacks(4): +2; Queens(2): +6; Kings(4): +2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 46 cards left that could be cut from, 30 of them give you points.&#xA;19 give you 2 points, 3 give three points, 3 give 5 points, 5 give you six points. The average number of points you will gain then is 2 points (92/46).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping 3,4,5,6 is much better!&#xA;Aces(4): +2; Twos(4): +3; Threes(3): +6; Fours(3): +8; Fives(3): +8; Sixes(3): +8; Sevens(4): +3; Eights(4): +2; Nines(4): +2; Tens(4): +2; Jacks(4): +2; Queens(2): +2; Kings(4): +2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the 46 remaining cards, all of them give you points. 26 cards give you 2 points, 8 cards give you 3 points, 3 cards give you six points, and 9 cards give you 9 points. On average than that is 3.61 points. Clearly superior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your run is not with 456, or containing 7,8, then the point values go down quite a bit. Also runs beginning with A or ending in K have less potential value, as the straight only goes one way. If the par is Jacks, that is a 50% chance of getting one more point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T14:47:34.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-01T14:57:45.037" Score="1" ViewCount="1334" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently a booster pack for this game, so I don't have the rulebook.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading in other sites and reading the website I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/aam/waratsea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the one listed here&lt;/a&gt; but it appears that there is yet one more. I can't find a digital copy of it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there really is an electronic revised/newer rulebook, where can I find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T22:04:39.530" Title="Current 'Axis &amp; Allies: War at sea' Rulebook?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|axis-and-allies-mini|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="670" CreationDate="2013-02-01T15:15:29.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A great deal of leading off in the play depends on the board position. If you are ahead, you should play defensively, so playing a 4 is fine there, and any low card (1-4) could be counted. It is a common mistake to be tied to closely to your aces, as they usually only get you a point for go, and very rarely a 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are behind, playing from pairs, playing connected cards etc, hoping to get points after they get points is a common strategy. so if you have a horrible hand and are behind (A79Q), you would lead the 7, hoping they play 8 for 15-for-two, and you can play 9 for 24-for-three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing a 5 can be a fun play in certain situations (you have a 5JQK hand, and you only need two points to win, play the five, and you have a 75% chance of matching their 15), but is quite bad in most others. Playing a 10 is not too bad, especially if it is a double (no chance for them to redouble for 12), and that same principle is true for all cards 8 and up, there is no danger if they match your card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T15:15:29.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10992" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-02-01T15:17:16.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies: Miniatures differs from the board game franchise in many aspects, most notably in that there there is a collectible factor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game features plastic miniatures resembling historical war vehicles, planes, ships and infantry units belonging to over 10 different nations. Each branch of the game offers a &quot;starter pack&quot; which includes basic units, manuals, markers and maps and from then on the game is sold in &quot;booster packs&quot; that include a small number of randomized miniatures - randomized means that the units in the box may belong to any army or nation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gameplay is a one-versus-one tactical battle in a series of preconfigured or customized battlefields featuring different victory conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="3565" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T16:04:35.823" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T16:04:35.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10993" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-02-01T15:17:16.907" Score="0" Body="Axis and Allies: Miniatures  is a franchise of World War II simulation miniatures games that is divided in three branches: &quot;Miniatures&quot; focusing on land battles, &quot;War at sea&quot; focusing on sea warfare, and &quot;Airforce Miniatures&quot; focusing on aerial combat" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="3565" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T16:04:27.523" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T16:04:27.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2013-02-01T15:22:39.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An important thing to consider in Scrabble, and one not often thought of in beginner play, is the value of the tiles left in your hand. Playing one letter and getting 4 points, while leaving TISANE in your hand is worth much more than playing neat for 12 points and leaving a random tile, and IS. That is because the leave value of TISANE (which leads to the most number of bingo draws) is enormous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, and getting to your question, if you could play one tile for 10 points, but get stuck with QKGHLV, the proper play would be to trade out most, if not all of your tiles. (If you have a vowel, keeping the L or the H might be fine). So if the value of your play is less than the negative value of your hand, then trading is a better option than playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2558" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T15:22:39.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1089" CreationDate="2013-02-01T15:39:15.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that no other answer seems to have touched upon, that I feel like is worth mentioning, is that playing tiles moves the game closer to its conclusion, whereas swapping tiles slows down the progress of the game.  Playing a six-letter word like EUOUAE for fewer than 10 points may just be inferior than swapping them, if your opponent is ahead and you need to catch up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional thought that arises naturally from this, is that if you're worried about your opponent scoring a bingo against you and gaining an unassailable lead, it may be better to leave a tightly-locked-up board as it is while you sculpt your hand. Opening things up with a mediocre move that doesn't do much for your score, but gives your opponent room to play out his rank, could prove a serious tactical error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T15:39:15.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10987" CreationDate="2013-02-01T18:47:01.307" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure the 'optimal' play is neither of the ones you mentioned!  Keeping 4,5,6,Q counts 7, gives you essentially equal opportunity for another 2 points off of any face card (you lose out on four extra points if one of the other two Qs comes, but that's only a 1 in 7 chance), still earns you all but two of the points you'd have had from 3,4,5,6 if you hit a double-run (though it slightly lessens the odds of it by cutting out the 3 as a double-run card), and gives your opponent just about the worst of the possible combinations for their crib (3Q).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To match Basicpract's analysis: you score two extra points off of any Ace (4), one point off of any trey (3), seven points off of a four or six (6), 9 points off of a five (3), one point off of a seven (4), two points off of a 9 (4) four points off of a Q (2), and two points off of any other face card (12).  This is 8 + 3 + 42 + 27 + 4 + 8 + 8 + 24 = 124 points off of the remaining 46 cards, for an average of more than two and a half points improvement and an average overall hand value of 9.7 points, compared to the 8 points from keeping 45QQ and the 9.61 points from keeping 3456 (but with a much worse crib to your opponent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T18:52:27.300" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T18:52:27.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10997" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-01T21:08:29.653" Score="12" ViewCount="3102" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the Settlers of Catan 5-6 player extension (for the base game), does that mean I can use the Seafarers or Cities and Knights expansions with 5-6 players? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4853" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-02T04:53:02.680" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T04:53:02.680" Title="Can the extra players extension work with Seafearers or Cities and Knights?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10997" CreationDate="2013-02-01T21:34:02.073" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seafarers and Cities &amp;amp; Knights have their own 5-6 Player expansions in addition to the base game 5-6 player expansion. Think of them as expansions to expansions. So to play a 6 player game of Seafarers you will need the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base Catan Game + 5-6 Person Base Expansion + 4 player Seafarers Expansion + 5-6 Person Seafarers Expansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastEditorUserId="2270" LastEditDate="2013-02-01T21:43:03.137" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T21:43:03.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="10999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10997" CreationDate="2013-02-01T21:47:13.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No--not easily at least. Each expansion has it's own 5-6 Player Extension, which you would need in addition to the base 5-6 Player extension. (BTW, they use the term &lt;em&gt;expansion&lt;/em&gt; for things like Cities &amp;amp; Knights or Seafarers that change the rules significantly, and the term &lt;em&gt;extension&lt;/em&gt; for sets that just add support for additional players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers adds boat pieces for each of the 4 base-set colors, but does not include boat pieces for the 2 additional colors. These you could proxy, or you could buy the Seafarers 5-6 Player Expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cities &amp;amp; Knights has more player-specific equipment: knights tokens, city walls, flipbooks for each player... playing without the C&amp;amp;K 5-6 Player extension would be very difficult. Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians is even more extreme than Cities &amp;amp; Knights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for the Expansion-Specific 5-6 Player Extensions on Boardgame Geek (Seafarers &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/4103/catan-seafarers-5-6-player-extension&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and Cities &amp;amp; Knights &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/4101/catan-cities-knights-5-6-player-extension&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/34691/catan-traders-barbarians-5-6-player-extension&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), you can see what they include.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2013-02-01T21:47:13.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-02T05:59:06.343" Score="10" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for the leader &lt;em&gt;Xenophon&lt;/em&gt; (Leaders expansion):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Xenophon grants 2 coins for each commercial structure (yellow card) that the player &lt;strong&gt;builds&lt;/strong&gt; from this point forward. The coins are taken from the bank, at the moment when the structures are built. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clarifcation: Xenophon has no effect on commercial structures built before he enters play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you get this 2 coins also if you use &lt;em&gt;Halicarnassus&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Solomon&lt;/em&gt; to bring a yellow card into game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules (p. 8) for &lt;em&gt;Halicarnassus&lt;/em&gt;' special ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the player can look through all of the cards discarded since the beginning of the game ([…]), pick one, and &lt;strong&gt;build it&lt;/strong&gt; for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the leader &lt;em&gt;Solomon&lt;/em&gt; (Leaders expansion):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once Solomon enters play, the player can&#xA;  choose an Age card from the discard pile and&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;put it in play&lt;/strong&gt; for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T15:15:03.363" Title="Do you get 2 coins from Xenophon for yellow cards put into play by Halicarnassus/Solomon?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-02-02T08:14:07.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got 3rd in a prerelease of 50-ish running dimir. I personally am a hardcore dimir player and love milling opponents, and I was disappointed that my draws did not support that. However, I pulled a lazav and an under city plague. I found that cipher is very underrated (I hated it until I used it, then I thought it was better) and that removal is needed for dimir because of its weaker creatures. Lazav didn't do me much good, I was playing silicon or dimir whenever I drew him, but death cult rouge is really good with cipher. There were numerous times when I stacked everything on him and ciphered my opponent away. I nearly always got my consuming aberration and the land milling is good because by the time he's out your opponents probably played 4-5 lands and might have 2-3 In their hand&#xA;This was my deck;&#xA;1x realmwright&#xA;1x shadow alley denizen&#xA;1 dusk mantle guildmage&#xA;4x death cult rouge&#xA;2x bane alley broker&#xA;2x sage row denizen&#xA;1x lazav dimir mastermind&#xA;1x consuming abberation&#xA;1x paranoid delusions&#xA;3x psychic strike&#xA;2x midnight recovery&#xA;2x grisly spectacle&#xA;2x way of the thief&#xA;1x shadow slice&#xA;1x under city plague&#xA;3x dimir guild gate&#xA;9x island&#xA;5x swamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The psychic strike and grisly spectacle saved me numerous times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4854" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T08:14:07.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11000" CreationDate="2013-02-02T12:30:02.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really good question, and not one that I could immediately find a definitive answer to.  Everything seems to hinge on whether &quot;build&quot; implies all the same things as &quot;put into play&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook to the original game, the term &quot;build&quot; is used many, times, often as part of the phrase &quot;build for free&quot; (which proves that building can happen in ways other than the conventional way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The phrase &quot;put into play&quot; only appears once:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Age has 6 game turns. During each turn the  players&#xA;  simultaneously put into play one card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which suggests that building always counts as putting into play, but doesn't prove that the reverse is also true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes these things are just the result of sloppy phrasing in one language or another, but I looking at a French version of the Leaders rules and the wording is exactly the same: Solomon &quot;puts into play&quot;, not &quot;builds&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of official errata or clarification I would have to say that I don't think Solomon should get 2 coins from Xenophon, although I do think Halicarnassus should.  &quot;Building&quot; and &quot;putting into play&quot; are sufficiently careful and distinct terms that it's possible to imagine the game designers might not have meant them to be synonymous.  Why on earth this should be is of course another question entirely.  Maybe they feared that games could end up being seriously dominated by the OBVIOUSLY BROKEN Solomon/Xenophon combo. &amp;lt;/tongue in cheek&amp;gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA: Having spoken to the game designer Antoine Bauza on Twitter about this I'm going to change my answer and say that putting a card building card into play is exactly the same thing as building it, as this seems to have been the intention.  It feels like the choice of wording was to allow the possibility of putting other types of cards that are not buildings into play with Solomon... Anyway, I'm just trying to double-check the intention behind the wording with Antoine, but now that we are no longer &quot;in the absence of official clarification&quot; I'm going to say that sitalnax's instincts were right, putting a building into play is to all intents and purposes the same thing as building it! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T15:15:03.363" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T15:15:03.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11000" CreationDate="2013-02-02T15:50:53.957" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes for both.&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Build&quot; is just a short, thematic word for putting into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On p. 4 of the rulebook, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;player will get to build structures (cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a bit later on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cards have no cost and can be put into play for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(using the Eastern Trading Post as an example.) The same page uses &quot;construct&quot; as another synonym. (&quot;Some cards have a resource cost. To construct them, the player must...&quot;)They all refer to the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T15:50:53.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11016" CreationDate="2013-02-02T16:46:26.310" Score="6" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, the minimum standard seems to be about 12 points to open with a five card suit, or 13 points with a four card minor. That makes sense with equal vulnerability (both vulnerable or both not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you're vulnerable and they're not. Are there players that would pass 12-13 point hands, needing 13-14 points (depending on suit length), because of the greater penalties for going down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, at favorable vulnerability, (they are, you're) not, would you shade your opening requirements down to about 11 points to try to catch up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2019-11-09T22:53:50.813" Title="In bridge, does it make sense to &quot;tighten&quot; or 'loosen&quot; up on bidding depending on vulnerability?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2013-02-02T17:07:49.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my understanding, vulnerability matters most in competitive bidding, especially when deciding whether to preempt or sacrifice, not strong openings. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/3j00.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; by bridge expert &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richard_Pavlicek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Richard Pavlicek&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, indicates that the strength of a preemptive bid should vary from 2-4 depending on whether the vulnerability is unfavorable, even, or favorable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T17:07:49.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2013-02-02T17:10:30.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do people do this?&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Is it sensible?&lt;/em&gt; are two different questions.  There are systems that rely absolutely on this sort of thing: the Mini No Trump is opened on 10-12 points non-vulnerable and 12-14 vulnerable, and it's both legal and difficult to defeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But whether you should do it generally and without agreement is almost impossible to answer.  If you'll pardon a platitude, you should open only if you think you have a better than even chance of ending up with a plus score.  Whether your particular 12-point hand will give you that depends on its minor features (J109, doubletons, etc.), how active your partner and opponents are, and the comparative cardplaying skills of the four of you.  There are certainly 11-point hands I would open without hesitation and 13-pointers I would pass, and vulnerability is one factor in that; but only one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2013-02-02T17:35:05.457" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T17:35:05.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8327" CreationDate="2013-02-02T17:58:50.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key point is that you have a QT minor &quot;tenace&quot; in dummy (over the Jack) that you want to lead to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the suit is divided 3-2, you'll make two tricks, one with either the Q or K, the second with a &quot;long&quot; low card. So let's worry about the 5-0 and 4-1 distributions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lead low to the QT. If West shows out, East has five cards, AJ976. Play the Q, which (probably) loses to the Ace. When you are back in dummy, lead the T to the K8x through J976. If J covers, win with the K, then lead from dummy through 9xx to 8x next time. Otherwise T and K win two tricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If West plays, duck if he plays the Ace, otherwise cover with the Q. If East shows out, the suit is divided 5-0, and you will win two tricks with the K and Q (if West plays the A), or Q and T on finesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the suit is divided 4-1 either way, which is possible if both follow. The worst that can happen is that West plays low and East captures your Q with the A, singleton or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When back in dummy, lead low toward your K8. If East shows out, West has J9x. After winning with the K, lead low toward Tx in dummmy, with the T scoring the second trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If East plays, capture the J or 9 with the K. Then your T and 8 are equals against the J (and the T beats the 9).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise finesse the 8. If West show out, you win a trick with the 8 and later the K.&#xA;If West can take the 8, the suit is divided 2-3, and you will win two tricks with K and the fourth card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T17:58:50.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11011" CreationDate="2013-02-02T20:14:45.557" Score="23" ViewCount="21867" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game last night with a guy who was playing a new Simic Gatecrash deck, and he claimed that if he made a land into a creature, it counted as entering the battlefield, thus triggering evolve (or other &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; abilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought this was incorrect, being that the creature didn't actually enter the battlefield, it was just created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of us was right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-03-06T19:27:21.317" LastActivityDate="2022-03-06T19:27:21.317" Title="If a permanent turns into a(nother) creature, has it entered the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-enters-the-battlefield|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3533" CreationDate="2013-02-02T21:09:33.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that in the 1940 version of this game the USA starts with around 27 IPC's on the Pacific map and 35 on the Europe side, so a total of roughly 62(?, perhaps my numbers are wrong) as a STARTING income. Then they will have the 30 IPC's per turn added on once at war, which is their only national objective, so when they are at war, they will have an economy of exactly thirty IPC's more than what they gain from territories(convoy losses and extraneous circumstances aside), no more, no less from NO's. I do not own this version, so this is only my take on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4858" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T21:09:33.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11009" CreationDate="2013-02-02T21:16:42.063" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Enters the battlefield&amp;quot; means moving from a zone besides the battlefield into the battlefield. As you say, it didn't actually enter the battlefield - it didn't change zones, it just changed from one thing to another within a zone. So no, it doesn't trigger evolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for citations, well, there's a ruling explicitly for this land-becoming creature case on many of the lands that can become creatures (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=177545&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Celestial Colonnade&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a land becomes a creature, that doesn't count as having a creature enter the battlefield. The permanent was already on the battlefield; it only changed its types. Abilities that trigger whenever a creature enters the battlefield won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the comp rules really say this explicitly; they say the battlefield is a zone, and &amp;quot;entering&amp;quot; a zone clearly means coming from outside the zone into the zone. For example, there's stuff like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it's moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6a Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing explicit, but consistently &amp;quot;entering&amp;quot; a zone is used to mean changing zones into that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T21:16:42.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2013-02-02T21:23:40.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it depends on the version you are playing and strategies each player attempts. The UK is always spread out and therefore is relatively easy to destroy or make useless, but in an Anglo-friendly atmosphere can attack almost anywhere. Statistically, the USA obviously has a superior economy and can basically choose an enemy to destroy, but has few units, especially near to action. Russia is mostly average in all aspects, but are often forced into bad situations. Japan has a very poor economy to try and take all of Asia, but initially have a large force, especially navy, so can possibly remedy their IPC problem. Germany, meanwhile, has a large starting force, esp. ground forces, and a formidible economy, so are arguably the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4858" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T09:12:58.380" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T09:12:58.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2013-02-02T21:37:37.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that it should have some strategical value to attack nuetrals rather than only discourage. Perhaps they should be grouped so attacking, say, Mozambique would only anger African neutrals and not all. Still, I can see how they want to stop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A nation from invading a neutral to outflank an opponent and no-one minding&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A nation from completely taking over the world!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by restricting them through not wanting enemies to gain more allies. Historically, if Germany took over ALL territories in sight, it would worry even the most peaceful neutrals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4858" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-03T09:16:14.293" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T09:16:14.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11009" CreationDate="2013-02-02T22:42:32.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you animate a land (or more likely in this case, an &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Simic%20Keyrune&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;artifact&lt;/a&gt;), you are merely changing its characteristics. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tower%20Defense&quot;&gt;Tower Defense&lt;/a&gt; also changes an object's characteristics, yet you would never say that causes the affected object to enter the battlefield. That's because changing an object's characteristics does not cause the object to enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be considered to enter the battlefield, the object must do exactly that, enter the battlefield from another zone. Standard English definition applies. If the object was already on the battlefield, how can it possibly be entering it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T08:11:56.587" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T04:52:34.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10973" CreationDate="2013-02-02T23:09:40.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not football, where a &quot;touchdown&quot; is scored by crossing the &quot;plane&quot; of a goal line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to become a queen, a pawn has to occupy a square on the eighth line. If that square is already occupied, a pawn can't &quot;share&quot; the square using a forward move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way a pawn can queen against an enemy piece on a queening square is by capturing it with a DIAGONAL move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T23:09:40.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2013-02-02T23:09:47.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, totally it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's think about the game of Bridge clearly: what &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; vulnerability?  Why is it part of the game?  It can't just be that at some arbitrary times you score n points for pulling off a tricky contract, and at other times, for no particular reason, you score n*3 instead.  That would seem a pretty random feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All vulnerability is, to my mind, is a way of stipulating that there are designated times during every game of Bridge where taking risks is penalized less heavily than at other times.  A good player will know that it's worth pushing your luck to its limit while non-vulnerable, and playing it safe while vulnerable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bidding all your auctions &quot;straight down the line&quot; without any variation based on vulnerable or non-vulnerable status just doesn't make any sense to me.  If you think that way, then the scoring becomes a matter of random factors that sometimes really benefit you and sometimes come down on you much harder than you deserve.  Whereas the truth of the matter, at least as I see things, is that it's just another interesting tool to allow the skilled player to press advantages over a less skilled one.  But to do that you have to be prepared to adapt your bidding strategy to the specific circumstances of every single hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-02T23:09:47.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8604" CreationDate="2013-02-03T07:08:09.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on scoring method and vulnerability, bidding games that are more likely to go down than to make may score better in the long run! At IMPs, if you have a 40% of making a game and a 60% chance of going down 1, it pays better to bid it! At rubber bridge that doesn't hold true because of the carryover from part scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T07:08:09.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2013-02-03T07:44:25.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common agreement in the US is that 2D by responder covers almost all hands. At this point you know very little about opener's hand, so if you want to take up more bidding space than that you should be very descriptive. I play that bidding a suit shows two of the top three honors in that suit and nothing of value elsewhere. 2NT by responder has no meaning. It preempts your partner, and if opener is balanced you'd prefer that defenders not get the advantage of seeing the big hand. So 2D can cover a huge range of hands. That's OK, because opener's most likely rebid is 2NT (22-24 HCP balanced), over which you play the same system as you do responding to a 2NT opener (with required point counts adjusted, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I didn't notice at first that (you say) 2C is typically 22+ HCP with a 6-card suit. This is certainly not current Standard American practice, which is to bid 2C on essentially any shape with 22+ HCP. The most common 2C opener is a balanced hand with 22-24 HCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T06:49:48.287" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T06:49:48.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10929" CreationDate="2013-02-03T08:03:16.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common reason you'd lead back your second highest card from four would be to smother a relatively high card in dummy. With KJxx and 10x in dummy, leading the J seems right. This way you pick up the suit if declarer started with eg Q8x, and doesn't hurt on other holdings. But if dummy started with eg 6x (ie something that can't force your partner's high honor if declarer ducks) and your high spot is low enough that you won't block the suit when partner holds 5, it's important to convey the count to your partner by leading low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T08:03:16.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2013-02-03T19:58:43.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more I think about it, the more I believe that partnerships that are at unfavorable vulnerability ought to tighten up their bidding. But not necessarily the opening bidder, in the example I gave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone needs to OPEN in order to get out information. They're not hugely vulnerable to doubles, because doubles of opening bids are usually for takeout. So you can maintain your opening standards when vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that it is the RESPONDER that needs to tighten up standards, e.g. respond at the one level with a full six points, at the two level with a full ten points, etc. Many otherwise makeable contracts are lost because dummy didn't have enough high cards to provide &quot;transportation,&quot; and these are situations you want to avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, one needs to be more careful about COMPETITIVE bids. Weak two bids need six cards, not five, and a good suit. Pre-emptive bids need two honors, not just seven cards in the suit. Raises of suits need honors to go along with spots. That's because THESE bids are most likely to be doubled. And if they are successful, the penalties (500 for down 2, 800 for down 3) will be large relative to the opposing game you are trying to &quot;save.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A competitive bid that requires a high level of caution is a takeout double in the direct seat. If your partner has nothing, opener's partner will redouble, then (probably) double anything your team bids. At unfavorable vulnerability, you will need very good distribution (singleton or void in the opener's suit) for the likely penalty to be less than the game or slam the opponents can make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7842/is-it-right-to-refrain-from-making-a-takeout-double-in-borderline-situations?rq=1&quot;&gt;Is it right to refrain from making a takeout double in borderline situations?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-02-03T19:58:43.463" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11022" CreationDate="2013-02-04T11:29:45.307" Score="6" ViewCount="20664" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a counterspell in my hand, and my opponent chooses to cast an instant or sorcery, can I wait to see what his spell 'targets' before I choose to counter it or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2499" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T22:30:36.820" Title="At what point does a spell 'target' its target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11021" CreationDate="2013-02-04T12:40:44.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you will know all targets of a spell as soon as it is cast.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/601-casting-spells.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. &lt;strong&gt;Casting a spell follows the steps listed below, in order.&lt;/strong&gt; If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”). &lt;strong&gt;Announcements and payments can’t be altered after they’ve been made.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2c &lt;strong&gt;The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires.&lt;/strong&gt; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that depending on the card-specific wording, there are some spells and abilities that have choices that are made when they resolve, not when they are cast. Once a spell or ability starts resolving, there is no way of countering it, so in those rare cases, you have no way of knowing for sure what it will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHex%20Parasite%5d&quot;&gt;Hex Parasite&lt;/a&gt;'s ability lets you choose the number and kind of counters to remove when it resolves, which matters when the target has more than 1 kind of counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another side effect of this rule is that there is usually no way of preventing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5Bbecomes%5D+%5Btarget%5D+%5Bspell%5D+%5Bability%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;abilities that trigger on its permanent being targeted&lt;/a&gt; from triggering, aside from hexproof or shroud. Once you target such a permanent (usually a creature), the ability will trigger, even if you counter the spell that triggered the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-05-27T22:30:36.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11021" CreationDate="2013-02-04T13:32:18.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you may wait to see what the spell targets.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants and Sorceries &lt;strong&gt;targets&lt;/strong&gt; are declared when the spell is cast, and are checked again when the spell resolves to ensure they are still legal targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1. Some spells and abilities require their controller to choose one or more targets for them. The targets are object(s), player(s), and/or zone(s) the spell or ability will affect. &lt;strong&gt;These targets are declared as part of the process of putting the spell or ability on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; The targets can't be changed except by another spell or ability that explicitly says it can do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1a &lt;strong&gt;An instant or sorcery spell is targeted&lt;/strong&gt; if its spell ability identifies something it will affect by using the phrase &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;target [something]&lt;/strong&gt;,&amp;quot; where the &amp;quot;something&amp;quot; is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone. The target(s) are chosen as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. (If an activated or triggered ability of an instant or sorcery uses the word target, that ability is targeted, but the spell is not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card that doesn't use the word &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; in its rules text, or in its keyword ability (Aura, Equip, etc.) does not target. With a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kindle%20the%20Carnage&quot;&gt;Kindle the Carnage&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Wish&quot;&gt;Living Wish&lt;/a&gt;, the amount of damage it deals (or the card it puts into hand) is decided during the resolution of the spell, so you could not wait to see how much damage the spell would deal (or which card is chosen) before deciding to counter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, with a permanent card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;, that has a triggered ability or choice that is made when the object enters the battlefield, you cannot wait until the choices or triggers of those cards occur. If you do, that would mean that the spell had finished resolving and &lt;strong&gt;those spells are now objects&lt;/strong&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T13:32:18.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11173" CreationDate="2013-02-04T14:36:20.040" Score="19" ViewCount="26441" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Game of Thrones (second edition):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have marveled at the balancing put into this game, specifically for 3-player games, where the whole south of the map is blocked, forcing the game to stay in the north, and thus creating a very good balance between the 3-players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5-player variant is also very well balanced. Including all of the map in the game with no blocked territories, the only difference is that house Martell is gone which releases some tension on the board so the game is simply delayed a bit, but still very balanced (IMHO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the 6-player version (the recommended) is obviously balanced, as it is the main design of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I feel that the 4-player version of the game is extremely unbalanced compared to the other variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, there are no blocked territories, creating a huge empty space in the south, the only thing to hinder a rush are neutral troops which can be easily defeated after the first few turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But worse still is that house Tyrell's starting spot (Highgarden) is left completely unguarded, almost requiring house Lannister to move in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House Baratheon is almost unhindered in its capture of all of the south unless Stark moves in aggressively or Baratheon moves inland or north, which barely happens when the south is so seductive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House Lannister can also grab for the south, but much keep care of Greyjoy as they have easy access to the lands as well. As long as Lannister leaves the Riverlands and goes south, they are pretty safe from Greyjoy for the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House Greyjoy, the extra house which makes the difference from 3 to 4 players, is stuck between Lannister and Stark, but with the empty south, and both Baratheon and Lannister moving down the board, Greyjoy is pretty free to take the Riverlands, unless Stark moves in, which would weaken both players and block their progress, and let Lannister or Baratheon get a big lead at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House Stark has a great time of this board, being able to see what the other players are doing, and where they are focusing, and then adapting. Being able to go either direction on the board, and also into the Riverlands, they are in a great situation on the 4-player board and it is very difficult to do anything to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Baratheon moves against Stark, Lannister or Greyjoy can easily grab the Riverlands, or the south, if Greyjoy moves to the Riverlands and north then Lannister can land-grab in the Riverlands or move south with ease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above are just a few examples of some of the things I feel are wrong in the balance of the 4-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if others have suggestions on how to improve the balance with house-rules, or if I am overlooking something, to please inform me as to how it actually &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T14:59:07.517" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T16:52:40.033" Title="Is the 4-player variant unbalanced? Is there a fix?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11026" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:29:06.517" Score="8" ViewCount="17506" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Extort (Whenever you cast a spell, you may pay b/w. If you do, each&#xA;  opponent loses 1 life and you gain that much life.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If my opponent has a creature with extort out, then casts a spell that I counter, can he still pay the 1 mana to trigger extort? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if not, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does he have to choose whether to spend the mana before or after I have countered the spell?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4861" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:46:12.063" Title="Can extort be triggered for countered spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:36:14.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If the spell wasn't countered, the following would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He casts the spell. (Puts it on the stack, pays costs, etc.) Extort triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extort is added to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extort resolves. He chooses to pay the mana. Each opponent of his loses 1 life and he gains that much life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spell can be countered in step 3 (in response to extort) or in step 5 (after extort resolves), but as you can see, extort has already been added to the stack at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of paying mana happens on resolution, so whether he chooses to spend the mana or not depends on when you counter the spell. If you counter in response to extort (step 3), he chooses after you counter. If you counter after extort resolves (step 5), he chooses before you counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T15:43:05.093" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T15:43:05.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:38:35.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely, Extort triggers for spells which are countered.  &quot;Casting&quot; a spell isn't dependent on whether that spell goes on to resolve (or &quot;be successfully cast&quot;, if it helps to think of it in those terms).  Per the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will&#xA;  eventually resolve and have its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, when you put your spell on the stack and pay its costs, the Extort trigger takes place and is put on the stack.  The triggered ability will therefore be on the stack above the originally cast spell; though the original spell can be countered either before or after the Extort ability resolves!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2013-02-04T18:24:56.157" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T18:24:56.157" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11025" CreationDate="2013-02-04T15:46:15.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If my opponent has a creature with extort out, then casts a spell that I counter, can he still pay the 1 mana to trigger extort?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/faq/gtc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatecrash FAQ&lt;/a&gt; here's the official rules for extort:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.100. Extort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.100a Extort is a triggered ability. &amp;quot;Extort&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;Whenever you cast a spell, you may pay . If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain life equal to the total life lost this way.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Extort is a triggered ability that is added to the stack when a spell is cast. Triggered abilities are added to the stack before priority is passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does he have to choose whether to spend the mana before or after I have countered the spell?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gatecrash FAQ clarifies when the mana is paid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may pay {W/B} a maximum of one time for each extort triggered ability. You decide whether to pay when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the counterspell is added to the stack after the triggered ability, it will resolve first. The player whose spell is countered gets to choose whether or not to pay the extort after the counterspell resolves. Of course, this has implications if the counterspell was something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Rupture&quot;&gt;Spell Rupture&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as @AlexP rightly points out, the smart counterspell caster will wait for the extort trigger to resolve, and see whether their opponent decides to pay the mana for it, then decide whether or not to cast a counterspell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Rupture&quot;&gt;Spell Rupture&lt;/a&gt; when they receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:46:12.063" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:46:12.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11031" CreationDate="2013-02-04T17:41:53.210" Score="4" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a class once where we had to design a handheld game system for a variant of Yahtzee, which I seem to recall being called &quot;Back Yahtzee&quot;, however I am unable to confirm this online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were two sets of dice and I remember the &quot;Yahtzee&quot; was obtained by getting 10 of the same number and it was called a &quot;big big.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I recall that you could score two things at a time, for example a full house on 5 dice and straight on the other 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know the name of this game and where I could find the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4862" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-02-07T10:17:03.467" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T10:17:03.467" Title="What is the name of this Yahtzee variant with 10 dice?" Tags="|identify-this-game|yahtzee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3533" CreationDate="2013-02-04T17:50:51.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Axis-Allies-Europe-1940-Second-Edition.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules, page 34&lt;/a&gt;, the US starts with 52 IPC both in treasury and income:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The powers start with the following IPC income levels&#xA;  and treasuries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Power  |&#xA;  Starting Income &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;United States  52&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4772" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T17:50:51.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11029" CreationDate="2013-02-04T19:12:52.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/868542/double-cameroon&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Double Cameroon&lt;/a&gt;. It sees to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T19:12:52.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11033" CreationDate="2013-02-04T19:50:43.440" Score="3" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first read how the crew change works it appeared useless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Player may swap their existing Specialist card with and Specialist&#xA;  card not currently in play. The player's Firefighter has the AP (less&#xA;  the 2 AP required for a crew change) and special abilities of the&#xA;  newly selected Specialist for the entire turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last part that states &quot;... for the entire turn&quot; to me makes it sound like you switch back to your old role when your turn ends. If this is the case though, you never get a chance to do much of anything with the new role. This makes it sound like that actually is not the case and that you keep the new role for the remainder of the game. Can someone confirm that this is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T20:27:07.463" Title="How long does crew change last?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11032" CreationDate="2013-02-04T20:27:07.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/895239/crew-change-only-for-1-turn&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crew Change lasts&lt;/a&gt; until you decide to change roles again. You don't automatically change back to your old role.  The &quot;cost&quot; is having to get back to the truck, finish the turn, and then spend the 2 AP to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-02-04T20:27:07.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11037" CreationDate="2013-02-04T21:56:20.270" Score="3" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/112/condottiere&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Condottiere&lt;/a&gt;, does the Favor of the Pope (white token) begin in play or does it not come into play until the first Bishop card is played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="155" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2020-09-26T18:16:02.543" LastActivityDate="2020-09-26T18:16:02.543" Title="Does the Favor of the Pope begin in play in Condottiere?" Tags="|condottiere|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11048" CreationDate="2013-02-05T02:44:57.267" Score="8" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;Played a &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.gokgs.com/games/2013/2/5/MrCactu5-onmyouji.sgf&quot;&gt;game&lt;/a&gt; on KGS.  We are both 4K.  He was good at life and death, and I am rusty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was B1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Sente&quot;&gt;sente&lt;/a&gt;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . X O 2 1 . |&#xA;$$ X . X O . . |&#xA;$$ . . X O . . |&#xA;$$ . . X O O . |&#xA;$$ . . X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4848" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T11:57:27.260" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T17:21:12.473" Title="Is this corner dead?" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11039" CreationDate="2013-02-05T03:16:44.113" Score="3" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a go game (with another 4K) I got a 2 x 4 region in the corner with lots of defects.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W1 almost surely will happen.  Can White get life or ko?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . X . &#xA;$$ | . . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . . O O X . &#xA;$$ | . . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . 1 O X . . &#xA;$$ | . B X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4848" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T11:55:33.553" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T11:55:33.553" Title="life and death: 2 x 4 in the corner with defects" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11034" CreationDate="2013-02-05T07:04:51.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It begins off of the board.&lt;/strong&gt; The initial setup is illustrated on p. 4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Condottiere/Condottiere_Rules_English.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;. It is also worth mentioning that when a player plays a Bishop card, that player can choose to remove the Favor of the Pope token from the board (or leave it off) rather than place it in any region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T07:04:51.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11038" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11042" CreationDate="2013-02-05T08:25:19.443" Score="9" ViewCount="2040" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was playing Munchkin (the fantasy version) with some friends, and I ended up having my sex changed (I could use some female-only stuff, thou, but that's another story). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in topic, when I get sex-changed, I suffer a &lt;code&gt;-5&lt;/code&gt; penality to my next fight, which I assume lasts until I kill a monster or I suffer his Bad Stuff; either way, I have to actually &lt;em&gt;fight&lt;/em&gt; him, not just &lt;em&gt;encounter&lt;/em&gt; him and run away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming my interpretation is correct, it might be the case where all my buddies try to keep my penality standing as long as possible, by removing monsters in some way (with potions or &lt;code&gt;charming&lt;/code&gt; spells), thus preventing me from an actual fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question then is: can I use Wishing Ring (which I have obtained after being cursed) to remove the &lt;code&gt;-5&lt;/code&gt; penality? Because I don't think I can remove the whole &lt;code&gt;Change Sex&lt;/code&gt; curse after I suffered it in the first place...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4864" LastEditorUserId="4864" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T08:47:06.890" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T13:14:19.553" Title="Can Wishing Ring be applied on side-effects?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11036" CreationDate="2013-02-05T11:38:44.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm tempted to say its either ko or seki, black's choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | . 2 1 . X . &#xA;$$ | . 3 O X . . &#xA;$$ | . . O O X . &#xA;$$ | . . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . O O X . . &#xA;$$ | . X X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W2 is the only move, and B3 enters the ko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | . 2 1 . X . &#xA;$$ | 3 . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . . O O X . &#xA;$$ | 4 . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . O O X . . &#xA;$$ | . X X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B3 fails, it ends in white life by W4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | 3 O X . X . &#xA;$$ | X 1 O X . . &#xA;$$ | 4 2 O O X . &#xA;$$ | O . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . O O X . . &#xA;$$ | . X X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not even a ko. If B1 at 2, W1 is seki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | . O X . X . &#xA;$$ | 2 6 O X . . &#xA;$$ | 4 5 O O X . &#xA;$$ | 1 . O X . . &#xA;$$ | 3 O O X . . &#xA;$$ | . X X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 is vital, but playing it directly doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | . O X a X . &#xA;$$ | 2 . O X . . &#xA;$$ | 1 . O O X . &#xA;$$ | 4 5 O X . . &#xA;$$ | 3 O O X . . &#xA;$$ | . X X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 1 and 2, it becomes a ko (at a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm1&#xA;$$ |------------&#xA;$$ | . O X . X . &#xA;$$ | . a O X . . &#xA;$$ | 1 b O O X . &#xA;$$ | 2 . O X . . &#xA;$$ | . O O X . . &#xA;$$ | . X X X . . &#xA;$$ | . . . . . . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White should instead answer B1 at 2, then a and b are miai for direct life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T11:54:58.077" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T11:54:58.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11041" CreationDate="2013-02-05T11:49:25.743" Score="6" ViewCount="4169" Body="&lt;p&gt;Within the same phase, once a stack of spells has resolved in its entirety, is priority once again given to a player so that more spells may be cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with a creature. Opponent opts not to block. Now, I want to buff (e.g. +3/+3) my creature multiple times, but I'm afraid of my opponent responding with a burn (e.g. Deal 3 damage) spell at the top of the stack. Can I buff once, ask if opponent wants to respond, then allow the stack to resolve. Then, in the same phase, cast more buff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4866" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T14:38:54.017" Title="What may happen after a stack of spells resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11040" CreationDate="2013-02-05T12:58:03.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The active player (whose turn it is) receives priority after any spell or ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that player passes, every other player in turn order gets priority as regular, and everyone with priority can cast spells or abilities, including when the last item on the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T12:58:03.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11038" CreationDate="2013-02-05T13:14:19.553" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is one of those situations that is pretty much up to the table to resolve.  See the interpretation in &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=76648&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Wishing Ring can remove a curse and its effects at anytime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So things like Big Feet, Tiny Hands and Chicken on your Head can be&#xA;  removed by a wishing ring even though after they have hit and are&#xA;  persistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is only one exception to this that I know of. Sex Change. The&#xA;  effects of the Sex Change curse can be canceled only at the time that&#xA;  the Curse is played. After it has taken effect the change is&#xA;  permanent. Playing a Wishing Ring afterwards can remove the -5 if you&#xA;  haven't been in combat but it can't revert you back to your original&#xA;  sex.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But contrast with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.helium.com/items/1882706-munchkin-wishing-ring&quot;&gt;this opinion&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wishing Rings have one function straight off the card, and that's to&#xA;  get rid of a curse. Whether it's to negate one that's incoming or one&#xA;  that's been lingering for a while, the Wishing Ring will undo any&#xA;  hated curse that would put your character in a detrimental situation.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;(Whether or not this applies to a curse that causes a sex change is up&#xA;  to the table in general, so long as it's after the fact.)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Munchkin isn't the kind of game where the interaction between different cards is always cut-and-dried.  I personally think it would be a bit mean to rule against a Wishing Ring being able to negate a Sex Change's -5 penalty, but it really does depend what kind of vindictive maniacs you have in your group!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T13:14:19.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11052" CreationDate="2013-02-05T14:27:44.837" Score="7" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent is at 7 life and has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; (2/2) and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262685&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gavony Ironwright&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;Fateful hour&lt;/em&gt; — As long as you have 5 or less life, other creatures you control get +1/+4.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with 2 2/2s and my opponent blocks with his Grizzly Bears. This attack will knock my opponent down to 5 life. &lt;strong&gt;Does my opponent's Grizzly Bears die or does Fateful Hour kick in before hand and save it?&lt;/strong&gt; (making it a 3/6 with 2 damage marked on it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4867" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T15:08:12.907" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T20:25:02.513" Title="Does Fateful Hour apply in this combat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11040" CreationDate="2013-02-05T14:38:54.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the active Player receives priority after a spell or ability resolves, and the next phase does not occur until both players pass priority when the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500.2. A phase or step in which players receive priority ends when the stack is empty and all players pass in succession. &lt;strong&gt;Simply having the stack become empty doesn't cause such a phase or step to end; all players have to pass in succession with the stack empty&lt;/strong&gt;. Because of this, each player gets a chance to add new things to the stack before that phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T14:38:54.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2013-02-05T14:42:15.040" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponents Grizzly Bear will survive. Damage is dealt simultaneously but because the lethal damage is checked as state based action it will not happen until after your opponent has 5 life and the Fateful hour ability has kicked in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No&#xA;  player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the&#xA;  time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt. This is a&#xA;  change from previous rules. Example: Squadron Hawk (a 1/1 creature&#xA;  with flying) and Goblin Piker (a 2/1 creature) are attacking. Mogg&#xA;  Fanatic (a 1/1 creature with the ability &quot;Sacrifice Mogg Fanatic: Mogg&#xA;  Fanatic deals 1 damage to target creature or player) blocks the Goblin&#xA;  Piker. The defending player sacrifices Mogg Fanatic during the declare&#xA;  blockers step to deal 1 damage to the Squadron Hawk. The Hawk is&#xA;  destroyed. The Piker deals and is dealt no combat damage this turn. If&#xA;  the defending player instead left Mogg Fanatic on the battlefield, the&#xA;  Fanatic and the Piker would have dealt lethal damage to one another,&#xA;  but the Squadron Hawk couldn't have been dealt damage.\&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;bR&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704 State-Based Actions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.1. State-based actions are game actions that happen automatically whenever certain conditions (listed below) are met. State-based&#xA;  actions don't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &quot;Timing and Priority&quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for&#xA;  state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions&#xA;  simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are&#xA;  performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; otherwise all&#xA;  triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on&#xA;  the stack, then the check is repeated. Once no more state-based&#xA;  actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered&#xA;  abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player&#xA;  gets priority. This process also occurs during the cleanup step (see&#xA;  rule 514), except that if no state-based actions are performed as the&#xA;  result of the step's first check and no triggered abilities are&#xA;  waiting to be put on the stack, then no player gets priority and the&#xA;  step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that&#xA;  creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration&#xA;  can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T18:05:21.667" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T18:05:21.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11047" CreationDate="2013-02-05T15:13:58.440" Score="10" ViewCount="2341" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a cipher copy be countered by a counter spell? Or, since the card has been encoded to a creature, does it act more like an ability, and can only be countered by cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; and others like it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4868" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-06T15:38:06.377" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T15:38:06.377" Title="Can ciphers be countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11046" CreationDate="2013-02-05T15:23:29.193" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spell created by a cipher is a regular spell, except that there is no physical card on the stack. You can counter it like you would counter the original. As the ability says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, &lt;strong&gt;its controller may cast a copy of this card without paying its mana cost.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All rules applying to spells also apply to copies of spells, for copies of spells are spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;111.1a A copy of a spell is also a spell, even if it has no card associated with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T19:02:36.753" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T19:02:36.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11035" CreationDate="2013-02-05T17:21:12.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since T14 allows a sente hane, the initial board effectively looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . X O . . . |&#xA;$$ X . X O . . |&#xA;$$ . . X O . . |&#xA;$$ . . X O O . |&#xA;$$ . . X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . O X 1 |&#xA;$$ . . . X 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The usual attempt is to hane from the outside, then kill by playing at the vital point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . X O 4 3 . |&#xA;$$ X . X O 7 2 |&#xA;$$ . . X O . 6 |&#xA;$$ . . X O O 5 |&#xA;$$ . . X X O 1 |&#xA;$$ . . . O X 8 |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But after 8, play cannot play at 1 to remove the eye due to atari.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's try a vital point in the corner directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . X O 6 . 8 |&#xA;$$ X . X O 4 1 |&#xA;$$ . . X O . 5 |&#xA;$$ . . X O O . |&#xA;$$ . . X X O 7 |&#xA;$$ . . . O X 2 |&#xA;$$ . . . X 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 8, the situation becomes a 2 step ko in b's favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, consider this sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . X O . 4 5 |&#xA;$$ X . X O 1 2 |&#xA;$$ . . X O . 3 |&#xA;$$ . . X O O . |&#xA;$$ . . X X O . |&#xA;$$ . . . O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After B5, the position is a direct ko. Black wins the ko by playing at 2, creating a dead shape inside. The same position arises if B1 is at B3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, thanks to the marked stone, black should try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . B O 6 5 . |&#xA;$$ X . X O 1 4 |&#xA;$$ . . X O 9 . |&#xA;$$ . . X O O 8 |&#xA;$$ . . X X O 7 |&#xA;$$ . . . O X 2 |&#xA;$$ . . . X 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The shape is dead without ko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original diagram, black can still aim for the same shape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ------------|&#xA;$$ . X O O X . |&#xA;$$ X . X O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . X O 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . X O O . |&#xA;$$ . . X X O 4 |&#xA;$$ . . . O X 2 |&#xA;$$ . . . X 3 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After B5, white is short of liberties and dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T17:21:12.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11050" CreationDate="2013-02-05T17:35:24.200" Score="15" ViewCount="3924" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is getting into some nitpicky corners of the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/magicsages/wiki/Keyword:First_Strike&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;First Strike&lt;/a&gt; damage and normal combat damage are dealt at separate times, and I believe there is a chance between the two resolving to play instants and other effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swift%20Justice&quot;&gt;Swift Justice&lt;/a&gt; (for example) can be used to cause a creature to deal no combat damage in a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Strike damage is assigned and resolved (my opponent's creature does not have first strike, and therefore deals no combat damage during this step).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast Swift Justice on my opponent's creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal combat damage is assigned and resolved (my opponent's creature does have First Strike, and therefore deals no combat damage during this step).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this work if there are no creatures in combat that have First Strike normally? (i.e. Do we skip the First Strike damage step if no creatures have First Strike?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T19:20:15.597" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T19:20:15.597" Title="Can I give a creature First Strike in order to prevent it dealing any damage that combat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11049" CreationDate="2013-02-05T18:02:09.643" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long story short, no: you can't give a creature First Strike after the first strike combat damage step in order to stop it dealing damage.  It will deal its damage as soon as it gets a reasonable window of opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the relevant portions of the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.7b If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins,&#xA;  the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those&#xA;  with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of&#xA;  proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat&#xA;  damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step&#xA;  are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike&#xA;  nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as&#xA;  the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double&#xA;  strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.7c Giving first strike to a creature without it after combat damage has already been dealt in the first combat damage step won't&#xA;  prevent that creature from assigning combat damage in the second&#xA;  combat damage step. Removing first strike from a creature after it has&#xA;  already dealt combat damage in the first combat damage step won't&#xA;  allow it to also assign combat damage in the second combat damage step&#xA;  (unless the creature has double strike).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T18:02:09.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8329" CreationDate="2013-02-05T18:38:06.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a little tough to answer without spoilers, but to put it simply, there are a lot of haunts with hero win conditions that are similar to the ones you mentioned, but subtly different, or where the lose condition varies, and some where it doesn't fit your options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nature of Betrayal is that each haunt does change the rules of the game in a unique manner, and so after basic functionality the program would have to be deal with haunts on a per-case basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer by proxy for Samthere's comment. Comment if he posts his own answer and I will delete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T18:38:06.057" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2013-02-05T18:38:06.057" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11043" CreationDate="2013-02-05T19:19:15.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dealing damage does not directly destroy creatures. It's actually state-based actions performed afterwards (the next time someone would get priority) that do. His Grizzly Bear would survive because your opponent has 5 life when SBAs are performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All participants assign their damage [CR 510.1]. No damage is actually dealt at this point, so your opponent has 7 life for the entire process, so his Grizzly Bear is 2/2 for the entire process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is assigned to your blocked attacker by his Grizzly Bear&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is assigned to his Grizzly Bear by your blocked attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is assigned to him by your unblocked blocked attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All participants deal the previously assigned damage simultaneously [CR 510.2]. (The power/toughness of the participants is not checked here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is dealt to your blocked attacker by his Grizzly Bear.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is marked on your blocked attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is dealt to his Grizzly Bear by your blocked attacker.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is marked on the Grizzly Bear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage is dealt to him by your unblocked blocked attacker.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He loses 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your blocked attacker is destroyed because its toughness, 2, is not greater than than its marked damage, 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Nothing happens to his Grizzly Bear because its toughness, 6, is greater than its marked damage, 2.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Your opponent does not lose the game because his life, 5, is greater than 0.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-02-05T20:25:02.513" LastActivityDate="2013-02-05T20:25:02.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-06T00:47:58.053" Score="3" ViewCount="2175" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone who has opened a decent amount of MTG boosters will notice that they get much more &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.tcgplayer.com/magic/scars-of-mirrodin/golem-token&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;of some tokens&lt;/a&gt; than &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.tcgplayer.com/magic/scars-of-mirrodin/wurm-token-%28a%29?partner=MTGTCG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;of others&lt;/a&gt;. I understand that this comes from varying needs for them, because far fewer people are going to need a planeswalker emblem than need a spirit token, but are there different rarities for tokens like there are for regular cards? Or does each token in a set have its own unique frequency of occurring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T12:36:30.690" Title="What are the different rarities of tokens in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11056" CreationDate="2013-02-06T02:55:08.760" Score="14" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand having randomizers for the kingdom cards because that's how you randomly choose them, but I find it odd that there is a randomizer for every card including the basic Curses, Coins and Victory cards. Why are they there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T04:46:31.360" Title="What is the purpose of having randomizer cards for the non-kingdom cards?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11055" CreationDate="2013-02-06T04:30:54.243" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are there to mark each pile.  The game ends when 3 piles are empty.  Once you see 3 randomizer cards showing, the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is on page 5 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may also use the Randomizer cards as Placeholders to mark the card piles so empty piles are easily seen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way my group lays out the Kingdom cards is organized by cost, so it is not always obvious that there is a pile missing.  The kingdom cards help remind us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with your comment that the Randomizer cards are a bit too similar to the normal cards, one solution is to put them into different colored sleeves than your regular cards.  Or perhaps, just sleeve the randomizer cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-02-06T04:46:31.360" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T04:46:31.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11053" CreationDate="2013-02-06T05:15:05.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find an official answer, but I can make an educated guess based on how cards are produced in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are printed in big sheets and then cut out and randomized. These sheets are grouped by rarity. You print sheets based on the desired ratio of rarities in the final product, e.g. 1 rare sheet per 10 common sheets if the two sheets are of equal size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, more than one copy of a cards is on each sheet. For instance, early sets, particularly the small sets which tried to simulate three rarity levels with only two print sheets, had multiple copies of some cards -- this is why &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Camel&quot;&gt;Camel&lt;/a&gt; is listed as &amp;quot;Common 5&amp;quot; in some collector guides, or why &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knights%20of%20Thorn&quot;&gt;Knights of Thorn&lt;/a&gt; is an &amp;quot;Uncommon 1&amp;quot; (functionally a rare for The Dark). For a more modern example, consider mythic rares: mythics don't get their own sheet; instead the rares sheet has two copies of every vanilla rare and one of each mythic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is undoubtably how the ads and tokens sheet is arranged as well: &lt;strong&gt;all of the ad and token cards are printed on one sheet, but there are multiple copies of the &amp;quot;common&amp;quot; tokens and few copies of the &amp;quot;rare&amp;quot; ones&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, a whole sheet of around a hundred M13 ads and tokens might contain twenty goblins and only one Liliana emblem. The exact mix of cards is likely to vary from set to set, but you can get a good idea of the rarity of &amp;quot;rare&amp;quot; tokens if you know the overall sheet size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T05:15:05.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11195" CreationDate="2013-02-06T05:29:27.520" Score="10" ViewCount="2347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if card sleeves commonly contain &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bisphenol_A&quot;&gt;Bisphenol A (BPA)&lt;/a&gt;? And if so, which brands do, and which are BPA free? I would prefer to use BPA-free sleeves if possible. I have not had any luck finding an answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3238" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-06T05:35:35.440" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T17:53:38.107" Title="Do card sleeves contain BPA?" Tags="|playing-cards|game-accessories|card-sleeves|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11058" CreationDate="2013-02-06T06:38:06.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most card sleeves are made with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epa.gov/wastes/conserve/materials/plastics.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polypropylene (Type 5)&lt;/a&gt; which is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hhs.gov/safety/bpa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;unlikely to contain BPA&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plastic Containers Made with BPA Used in Food Preparation. Plastic containers have recycle codes on the bottom. Ingeneral,plastics that are marked with recycle codes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are very unlikely to contain BPA. Some, but not all, plastics that are marked with recycle code 7 may be made with BPA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the most popular card sleeves are &lt;a href=&quot;http://maydaygames.com/card-sleeves/premium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mayday Games&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B000Y4HI7A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultra Pro&lt;/a&gt;, both are made of polypropylene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BPA is a chemical that has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/bpa/AN01955&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;around for years&lt;/a&gt;, and it would be quite difficult to avoid any contact with it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BPA stands for bisphenol A. BPA is an industrial chemical that has been used to make certain plastics and resins since the 1960s. In particular, BPA is found in polycarbonate plastics and epoxy resins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Polycarbonate plastics are often used in containers that store food and beverages, such as water bottles, and baby bottles and cups. [...] toys and other consumer goods. [...] food cans, baby formula cans, bottle tops and water supply lines. [...] dental sealants and composites [...] and thermal paper products, such as cash register receipts [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The studies that claim BPA might pose a danger have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stats.org/stories/2009/Science%20Suppressed_%20America%27s%20Obsession%20with%20BPA_June30_09.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;methodological issues&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The European Food Safety Authority (ERAS) - said that the amount considered safe to ingest on a daily basis for life should be raised by a factor of five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the studies that show adverse effects in rodents given small doses of bisphenol A subcutaneous injections. Most of the studies in rodents that did not show adverse effects even in high doses used the oral route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there is &amp;quot;a 500,000 fold difference between the lowest oral exposures in animals associated with any adverse effects and the oral human exposure,&amp;quot; [...] By any measure, this does not constitute a health risk. We get vastly more estrogenic chemicals from eating nuts, cereals and bread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T04:53:22.550" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11053" CreationDate="2013-02-06T12:36:30.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen it suggested that token rarity is proportional to the rarity of the least rare cards that produce those tokens.  So you would find many more of a token that is produced by a common card, than a token which is only generated by a Mythic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like the actual policy hasn't been made public by Wizards, but it seems like this would be a sensible route to take, and it's probably a good rule of thumb to work by, in terms of whether a given token is likely to be easy or hard to come by.  No one seems to have provided compelling evidence that it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; work something like this; though of course there will always be people who have opened boxes with anomalous token distributions in.  Isn't that just how opening boxes of Magic cards works? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-06T12:36:30.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-06T21:54:55.703" Score="1" ViewCount="15192" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a bit hard to build a deck. There's so many cards I can barely think of an idea, or how I'm supposed to build one! Could anyone lend me a hand on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4875" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T15:43:20.297" Title="How do I build a Pokémon TCG deck?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2013-11-22T16:56:11.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11061" CreationDate="2013-02-06T21:54:55.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;h1&gt;How do I build a Pokémon TCG deck?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Deck building 101&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the starting point from building a deck?&lt;/strong&gt; Before deciding on this you must have clear what actually makes a deck win games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Consistency&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot stress this point enough. A consistent deck is one where every single card work towards a well focused strategy. Let's make some examples on this to explain this better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll list a theme deck, say, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ice Shock&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; from Boundaries Crossed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pokémon: 30&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Black Kyurem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Blastoise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Wartortle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Squirtle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Golduck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Psyduck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Jellicent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Frillish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Pikachu&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Electrode&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Voltorb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Electivire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Electabuzz&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Lopunny&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Buneary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trainers: 12&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Energy Retrieval&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Energy Search&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Great Ball&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Pokémon Communication&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Switch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Cheren&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Skyla&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Energy: 18&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11 Water Energy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Lighting Energy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, can you tell me the strategy this deck uses? Sure, one could go like &amp;quot;let's load a lot of energy thanks to my only Blastoise and attack!&amp;quot;. But ask yourself the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where are we focusing our efforts?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are Pikachu, Electrode, Electivire, Lopunny, Golduck and Jellicent doing here? Better yet, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;what is each card in this deck doing to make a win easier?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are we ensuring we will get what we want whenever we want?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building a deck always make yourself these questions. If a card looks cool enough with a decent effect, but you aren't sure if this will help your strategy, think again or remove it entirely. At the end of this post there's a Blastoise/Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; deck. Let's say we think Jellicent from the deck I just listed looks cool enough for inclusion. &amp;quot;Sure!&amp;quot;, you might say. &amp;quot;It's a decent card and we can still give it lots of energy thanks to Blastoise!&amp;quot;. And maybe it might be a good idea, but what is it doing to help us win, or better yet, how does it help our main strategy, which consists of fast and powerful attacks with Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;? Personally I see no reason for it to be here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On that regard, the deck I listed at the bottom of the post might not be the most optimal build, but at least it keeps a level of consistency in that no card is there for no reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Speed&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might have a consistent deck. It can be a REALLY consistent deck. But if it's not fast enough, consistency won't win games. Speed is important. You want to take a prize before your opponent does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind: &lt;strong&gt;one Stage 2 line removes from your speed&lt;/strong&gt;. Don't think this means you shouldn't use Stage 2 cards, but be aware that two Stage 2 lines might be too slow. Back in the DP-on and MD-on era we even had a Stadium Card (Broken Time-Space) that allowed us to evolve Pokémon as fast as we wanted, meaning we could just skip the evolution constraints. Nowadays we don't have such a card and we can just rely on Rare Candy and maybe the newer Clefable. What we can do though is to use strong Basic Pokémon, like Pokémon-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;, to speed up things. Or, we can use Stage 2 Pokémon with little energy requirements and that can hit hard, such as Garchomp and Empoleon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speed is important. If you don't have speed in your deck, you might have a good strategy and be pulling it decently but your opponent might have already taken two or three prizes, meaning you're already losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Strategy&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why would I want a strategy? I just play with my friends!&lt;/strong&gt; And that's perfectly fine. If you're not going to play in tournaments and are completely fine with building a deck with your favorite cards and don't mind losing, it's perfectly fine. However, if what you want is to take a step forward, then a strategy is a must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For choosing a strategy, choose a combination of two or more cards. Some good combinations are Eelektrik and Zekrom (Zekrom discards [L] energies you can retrieve with Eelektrik), Gabite, Garchomp and Altaria (Gabite searches for [D] Pokémon, Garchomp hits 60 for [F] and Altaria is a [D] Pokémon that adds 20 damage to [D] Pokémon when in play), Empoleon and Emolga (Emolga fills your bench and Empoleon deals damage with [W] and adds more damage the more Benched Pokémon you have, plus it lets you draw two cards by discarding one) and Blastoise and Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; (which I'm going to talk about now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Choosing a strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you should ask yourself is: &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;How do I want to win?&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; Let's double check the possible ways to win a game, since that's what you build your deck for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You win a Pokémon TCG game by fulfilling one of the following conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defeat all of your opponent's Pokémon. This means, when you knock out your opponent's active Pokémon, your opponent should not be able to move a benched Pokémon to an active position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw all your prizes. Usually this means defeating six of your opponent's Pokémon, but Pokémon-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; allow you to draw two cards and &amp;quot;Lugia-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; allows you to draw an extra prize, so did &amp;quot;Rayquaza &amp;amp; Deoxys &lt;em&gt;LEGEND&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. Also there are cards that can increase the amount of prizes your opponent has to take.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent cannot draw a card at the start of his or her turn. Keep in mind this does not apply to other effects that would allow you to draw cards. For instance, &amp;quot;Professor Juniper&amp;quot; states that you must draw 7 cards from your deck. If you have less than that, you draw all of them and it doesn't cause a game loss condition; you only lose if you cannot draw a card &lt;strong&gt;at the start of your turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping all of this in mind, we must choose one or more ways to win. For the sake of simplicity (and because most decks use this as a basis), we will use the first two winning conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Choose a combination&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to see what cards would allow us to win in the way we've chosen, we must find a combination of two or more cards that would let us win in the fastest way possible. Why fastest? In the current format (BW-on), speed is important. There are so many Pokémon-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; we cannot just ignore speed. We must hit hard and fast before our opponent get a chance to use their Pokémon! And this doesn't just apply to Pokémon-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; but to any metagame. Even in the old days of Base Set/Jungle/Fossil we had to deal with this, namely the Haymaker deck which won many games hitting fast and hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a combination we can use for a simple deck (keep in mind this combo is actually being used): Blastoise (Boundaries Crossed) and Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blastoise - 140 HP - W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stage 2 - Evolves from Wartortle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ability: Deluge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As often as you like during your turn &lt;em&gt;(before your attack)&lt;/em&gt;, you may attach a [W] Energy card from your hand to 1 of your Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[C][C][C][C] Hydro Pump - 60+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does 10 more damage for each [W] Energy attached to this Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's a Pokémon that allow us to attach as many [W] energy as we want to our Pokémon! Now let's see Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; - 170 HP - W&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Pokémon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ability: Rush In&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once during your turn &lt;em&gt;(before your attack)&lt;/em&gt;, if this Pokémon is on your Bench, you may switch this Pokémon with your Active Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[C][C][C] Secret Sword - 50+&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does 20 more damage for each [W] Energy attached to this Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokémon-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; rule: When a Pokémon-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; has been Knocked Out, your opponent takes 2 Prize cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the idea is: we take out Blastoise, draw as many [W] energies as we need, attach them to Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; and use Rush In to make it active. Great synergy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Building the core&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we've decided our core strategy, we must now build the basic core! Just keep in mind we cannot place more than 4 cards of each type, except for Basic energies. Let's do it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pokémon: 16&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Squirtle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Wartortle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Blastoise (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why 4 of each? Not only this is our core, but the cards we will be using the most. It's only natural we want the most of them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;do we really want 4 of each?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly. How many Blastoise do we need in play? &lt;strong&gt;Only one&lt;/strong&gt;. So maybe four Blastoise is a bit overhead. We can try reducing this to a smaller core (keeping four Squirtle in case of being catchered [Pokémon Catcher allows you to switch our opponent's Pokémon with any other of his or her bench]):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pokémon: 16&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Squirtle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Wartortle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Blastoise (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can still reduce the Wartortles with help from Rare Candy, which lets us evolve one of our Basic Pokémon to its Stage 2 card. If we include all four Rare Candies we can reduce Wartortles to just one (and one to avoid Item locks such as Gothitelle, which wouldn't allow us to play that card):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pokémon: 12&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Squirtle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Wartortle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Blastoise (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trainers: 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Rare Candy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still 16 cards, but now &lt;strong&gt;we can have Blastoise at turn 2 and be ready to attack&lt;/strong&gt;. It's way faster than what we had before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Supporting cards (not Supporter cards though)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we have our core, we must focus on cards that will support our main strategy. Do not confuse the title with Supporter cards. We will add them here but I'm not talking exactly about these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do we need to take these Pokémon as fast as possible? Here you can be creative and add whatever cards you would think will help the strategy. I'll describe some cards you should consider when building a deck (and that might be useful for this particular deck):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Computer Search: An ACE SPEC card (meaning we can only have one of them and no other ACE SPEC card) that allows us to discard two cards and search for any other card in our deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gold Potion: Another decent ACE SPEC card that heals 90 damage from one Pokémon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great Ball: An Item card that lets us look at the first seven cards of our deck, choose a Pokémon from there and place it in our hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heavy Ball: Another Item card that lets us search for a Pokémon with a Retreat Cost of 3 or more. Blastoise has 4 so we can consider it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Professor Juniper: A Supporter card (we can play one of these during our turn) for discarding our hand and drawing seven new cards. Good for hand refreshing, also a staple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cheren: Draw three cards. Straightforward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bianca: Draw a card until you have six in your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eviolite: Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; will love these. A Basic Pokémon with this tool attached will receive 20 less damage from any attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rescue Scarf: Another card for Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;. If you don't worry that much about damage, consider retrieving them when they get KO'd.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N: Supporter. Each player shuffles their hand on their deck and draw one card for each prize card remaining. Good disruptor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Random Receiver: Item, reveal one card from your deck until you find a Supporter. Good in a pinch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skyla: Search your deck for any Trainer card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultra Ball: Discard two cards from your hand and search for a Pokemon in your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Super Rod: Search for three cards in any combination of Pokémon and Basic Energy cards and shuffle them in your deck. A good recovery card, include at least one of these in your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokémon Catcher: Switch your opponent's Active Pokémon with a Pokémon on his or her bench. A must for every deck, 3 or 4 will do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokémon Communication: Change one Pokémon from your hand with one from your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you notice, Trainer cards can be roughly classified as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand refreshing: They allow us to refresh our hand. You must have some of these in every deck. Juniper and N are examples of this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawing: They draw more cards for us to have mor play options. Bianca and Cheren do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Searching: They let us search for specific cards. Skyla and Heavy Ball are examples of this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disrupting: They alter the way your opponent plays, such as N and Pokémon Catcher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recovery: They help us retrieve things that were discarded, or to turn around the table when things look bad. Super Rod, and in a certain way, N, are excellent for this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat: They help us during combat, when receiving and dealing damage. Gold Potion and Evolite do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, we shouldn't just include one of each and be done. What we must be pursuing is &lt;strong&gt;consistency&lt;/strong&gt;. Our deck must be able to pursuit the goal we've defined before in all times and each and every card must help with this. Keeping all of this in mind, I've decided to include the following cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pokémon: 12&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Squirtle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Wartortle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Blastoise (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trainers: 29&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Rare Candy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Computer Search&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Ultra Ball&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Great Ball&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Super Rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Cheren&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Bianca&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 N&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Pokémon Catcher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Skyla&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;29 trainers?! Isn't it a bit excessive?&lt;/strong&gt; No. Actually no. Most of your deck should consist of Trainers, believe it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Completing the deck and adding other cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a solid deck but we're lacking two other things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Energy Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Techs&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a &lt;em&gt;tech&lt;/em&gt;? It's a card we include in order to deal with threats to our deck! What can threat our deck SO much???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mewtwo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;: The more energy cards we have attached, the more damage we will receive thanks to &lt;em&gt;X Ball&lt;/em&gt;. We must deal with this somehow!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sigilyph: It basically nullifies our Keldeo's attacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sigilyph can be easily dealt with: We load a Blastoise with energy, retreat a Keldeo, and send it to attack. A Blastoise with [W][W][W] attached will KO it in no time. The real problem is Mewtwo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;. Sadly the best way to counter it is with another Mewtwo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;. So, we will include two of these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we have 43 cards in our deck. How about adding three more cards? I would bet for Energy Retrieval, which recovers two Basic Energy cards from our discard pile. So adding three of these will be great. The remainder of the deck will be water energies - limit yourself to no more than 18 Energy cards and that's for a deck that actually needs many of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The final deck&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pokémon: 14&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Squirtle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Wartortle (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Blastoise (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Keldeo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt; (BC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Mewtwo-&lt;em&gt;EX&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trainers: 32&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Rare Candy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Computer Search&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Ultra Ball&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Great Ball&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Super Rod&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Cheren&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Bianca&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 N&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Pokémon Catcher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Skyla&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Energy Retrieval&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Energy: 14&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 Water Energy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've gone through building a deck from the very core of it to an actual full fledged deck. Keep in mind this might not be an optimal build, but I think it's enough to illustrate the point and to help starters getting going with their very own deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4875" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T21:17:07.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11071" CreationDate="2013-02-07T13:58:28.323" Score="1" ViewCount="4340" Body="&lt;p&gt;My board game group and I started Descent: Journey Into the Dark, 2nd Ed. last night. This group usually fluctuates between 4 and 6 players and this session we had five, the upper limit for the game. Everyone had a great time beating me to a pulp, as I was the Overlord; the heroes won all three encounters with ease. Next week the group wants to play this again. The problem is that we are probably going to have the 6th player back. If this happens, I need to increase the difficulty in order to have a fair shot at being effective as the Overlord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are changes that I can make to increase the difficulty for five heroes while still keeping the game fairly balanced? I already feel like the game is stacked against the overlord pretty heavily, although we did the easiest encounters to get a feel for the game, so maybe that changes by the end. Some suggestions I've read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increasing monster health&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking a &quot;short turn&quot; after the 3rd hero takes their actions. This consists of  drawing an Overlord card and taking actions with one monster group.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do not want the Overlord to be controlled by two players, so I'm looking specifically for ways to play with five heroes. Also note this is for 2nd Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T17:28:41.760" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T17:28:41.760" Title="What should the Overlord change when adding a fifth hero in Descent: Journey Into the Dark, 2nd Ed.?" Tags="|house-rules|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11069" CreationDate="2013-02-07T14:53:11.430" Score="1" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a low approach at W2, B3 is a wide pincer.  I double-pincered at W4 and then diagonal B5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . 4 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 5 . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ . . 3 . . . 2 . 6 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ----------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the follow-up I to W14, after B15 is the marked stone I wound up with only one eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm7&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . 8 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 7 X 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . X . . . O 3 O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . B . 6 4 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ----------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was a better follow-up to the original joseki?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4848" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T15:28:47.720" Title="3-4 point joseki - wide double-pincer" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11063" CreationDate="2013-02-07T15:26:21.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could play a scenario designed for 6-7 players, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://mindflare.com/enduringevil/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Enduring Evil&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=4&amp;amp;efcid=28&amp;amp;efidt=364353&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forums at FFG&lt;/a&gt; note some of the issues that make the game stacked against the Overlord as you add heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of extra attacks and LOS coverage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it will be next to impossible to get a spawn in within striking distance of the party&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible solution that was suggested it to have two teams competing for victory, and the Overlord in the middle, but this doesn't work well for 6 players since you will have one team down a hero though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T15:26:21.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10911" CreationDate="2013-02-07T19:02:26.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your Bloodrush would stack on top of Izzit Charm and thus resolve before the damage. Bloodrush was specifically designed to be used in the combat phase, at instant speed and only on target attacking creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that because this is an activated ability, this should go without saying but is still questioned again and again, cannot be countered by counter-spells. It can however be countered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5BCounter%5D%20%5Btarget%5D%20%5Bactivated%5D%20%5Bor%5D%20%5Btriggered%5D%20%5Bability%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;following&lt;/a&gt; only because Activated Abilities are named.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4878" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T19:02:26.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10914" CreationDate="2013-02-07T22:02:02.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I managed to go 3-0 with Dimir in the one draft event I've participated in. Some of it was luck, but I'll share what I learned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My gameplan was: evasive creatures to whittle down their life total and combine with cipher, and removal and defensive creatures to hold them off for long enough to win. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While evasive creatures are essential, they also tend to be small. It's important to pick up a few non-evasive guys just to serve as blockers. Two mana 2/2s and 1/3s, and three mana 2/3s are there for the taking. Horror of the Dim served a useful role as a 3/4 that could at least compete with some of the bigger creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Along the same lines, Riot Gear was essential in my deck. Turning a 2/2 into a 3/4 makes a huge difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I never actually used the abilities of the Duskmantle Guildmage, but he seems useful as a way to turn the incidental mill you are going to get into a few extra points of damage. Less so as a way to win by milling. For me he was just a two mana 2/2, which is fine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadow slice won me a few games, it's a good way to get in those extra points of damage. But in retrospect, I think I should have picked up some of the Madcap Skills going around and splashed red for them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't comment too much on the feasibility of a mill deck, I only got 1 Paranoid Delusions and I think I'd want at least 3 to try for a mill deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duskmantle Seer is sweet. :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4879" LastActivityDate="2013-02-07T22:02:02.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11070" CreationDate="2013-02-08T01:52:24.597" Score="2" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am 4K and played against 2K in handicap game (2-stones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of B3 was to prevent a double-wing shape for white (along the right and bottom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So W4 pincer leads us into this joseki variant.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Josekipedia&lt;/a&gt; suggests alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . 4 . 8 6 . . |&#xA;$$ . 9 . . 1 7 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . 5 . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 3 . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Josekipedia&lt;/a&gt; suggests playing this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm10&#xA;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . 1 O . O O . . |&#xA;$$ 2 X . . X X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead we played where I lost a large corner altogether with unstable shape outside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm10&#xA;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . O 9 O O . . |&#xA;$$ . X 8 3 X X 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . X 6 5 4 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O 7 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . 2 . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For unrelated reasons, I won the game (&lt;a href=&quot;http://files.gokgs.com/games/2013/2/7/Puppies-MrCactu5.sgf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SGF&lt;/a&gt;) against this 2K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was the pincer at 3 and kosumi at 5 the right choice? How could I have prevented the loss of the corner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4848" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-02-08T13:24:12.380" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T00:30:28.047" Title="4-4 pincer variant - not in joseki dictionary" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2013-02-08T02:44:55.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That should be simple - don't play at 14 in your final diagram. Instead, try this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bm7&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . B . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 7 X 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . X . 8 . O 3 O 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 6 4 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ----------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how white is alive, while black has an empty triangle, a bad shape in this case. It is not easy for black to attack the white stone on the right side. For instance: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . 2 O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . X X X . |&#xA;$$ . . X . O . O X O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . O O O . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ----------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If B1, white can split at 2. If B1 at 2, white can move fluently to the right side by playing at 1 herself. In the meantime, black has no eyes yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original diagram, B13 might be a bad move. I don't know this joseki, but I'd guess black should try something else instead, possibly before 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T02:44:55.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11068" CreationDate="2013-02-08T13:40:36.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is difficult to tell if the pincer at 3 was the right choice. Generally, such a wide pincer is good if you plan on a moyo on the right side. I'm assuming that W1 was in the upper left and B2 a hoshi in the lower right, as in this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wcm1&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 1 . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . 4 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . 2 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this board, B4 looks like a reasonable pincer. Typically, you'd expect something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Bcm1&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 . 4 2 8 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . , . . . . 5 X 3 6 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 7 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . . . . 1 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . , . . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ ---------------------------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the black right side has nice potential to grow big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game, white chose the counter pincer instead, which is a good move (especially in handicap games). Your choice of the kosumi B5 was good, as it simplifies the game and leaves white less chances to start a complicated fight than other options (most notable the tsuke on top of W2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White deviation from joseki was a mistake. Let's study why. First, one correct variation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . O 3 O O 7 . |&#xA;$$ . X 2 1 X X 5 . |&#xA;$$ . . . X 4 a 6 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, white first plays W1 to force black to play an empty triangle at 4. Next, white hanes at 5, and after W7, black would need to play at a to fix the shape. But that would leave black with a pretty heavy shape (too many stones used). This heavy shape is a direct result of the kosumi B5 in the original diagram, which often leads to shape troubles. This is still acceptable in handicap games, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's compare this with the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . O . O O 3 . |&#xA;$$ . X . a X X 1 . |&#xA;$$ . . . X . 4 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variation black does hane at 2, followed by W3 and connect at 4. Note that white a does not threaten a cut anymore, because black already fixed at 4. Thus, black is less heavy, and the variation is a little bit worse for white than joseki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T13:40:36.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11063" CreationDate="2013-02-08T15:41:27.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've been playing with six players (5 heroes + overlord). The only changes we've made are to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play all white minion monsters with red stats. They still count as white minions for hero powers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add an additional treasure. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When calculating the boss monster's HP, increase it by one hero. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a little bit easy for the heros, but it's been close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2013-02-08T15:41:27.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11072" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-09T00:24:44.123" Score="6" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;The history of videogames is full of games that failed to turn a profit. There are also a handful of games that are maligned by critics, and are &lt;a href=&quot;http://wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_commercial_failures_in_video_gaming#section_3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;regarded as flops&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thedoteaters.com/p3_stage6.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;E.T. and Pacman&lt;/a&gt; are arguably some of the first examples of video game flops (not in total sales, but in lower than expected sales that resulted in a financial loss). Battlefield Earth, Diakatana, APB and others for the PC that missed release dates and when finally released did abysmal sales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the largest flop in board game history?&lt;/strong&gt; I know the stakes in board games are much smaller, with print runs in the low thousands usually, but surely there must be an example of a board game that had much lower than expected sales, and the publisher took a big loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-02-16T14:54:01.480" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T14:54:01.480" Title="What was the largest flop in board game history?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3826" CreationDate="2013-02-09T00:37:51.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really don't like the combat stack, particularly its use for death blows - it seems like a misguided attempt to add some influence between one round and the next without much thought about what part of combat it might be representing. The rule-book claims this represents &amp;quot;players manoeuvring for a stronger attack&amp;quot;, but why is this stronger attack being directed by which losing attacks were made in the past... and even by your past opponent's losing attacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Respecting the need to not slow combat any more, I developed some rule amendments - they seem to work well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;losing cards and cards from a stalemate are returned to the bottom of the deck not the combat stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the combat stack, now representative of &amp;quot;environmental opportunity&amp;quot;, is populated by turning cards face up from the deck at the end of the combat round to maintain a total of 3 face-up cards. These may be used in the same way as before for so called &amp;quot;death blows&amp;quot;, although that's a misnomer as death is likely but not certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the winning player from the previous round draws replacement cards first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Drawn cards may be taken from the visible &amp;quot;opportunity stack&amp;quot; or from the deck. If taken from the opportunity stack, both players will know what they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A further simple enhancement to represent reinforced/renewed attack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacking player may add more cards of the same type from his hand against a counter attack made by his opponent. So may the counter-attacker, in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A further enhancement to represent exhaustion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may only draw up to 3 cards a round to renew their hand. Hence their hand may contain less than 5 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also think monsters need to carry treasure (who works for free these days!) - otherwise the encounter is purely punitive. It's easy to add a treasure card draw for a kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to 2 other players are going to be bored by combat not involving them, so to me it looks like the game should be recommended for two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T09:04:55.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11072" CreationDate="2013-02-09T09:54:37.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to use a bit of lateral thinking to answer this question - since our site is Board Games: Stack Exchange but we spend about half our time here talking about card games, hopefully a trading card game is a valid answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest ever &quot;board/card game flop&quot; that I can think of is Netrunner.  Given that Magic the Gathering had recently been such a surprise smash hit, getting Richard Garfield back into the studio to produce a sequel based on ultra-cool-at-the-time Cyberpunk trappings must have seemed like a guaranteed moneymaker.  If I remember correctly, the consensus among the gaming cognoscenti was that it was a better game mechanically and production-values-wise than Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet Netrunner sold terribly, and was cancelled a couple of years later, before its second expansion could even be released; in 1999 Pyramid magazine named Netrunner as one of &quot;The Millennium's Most Underrated Games&quot;.  Of course there's been a happy ending to the story since then, with it having been rereleased in the form on Android: Netrunner to critical acclaim and I hope moderate success, but as gaming flop stories go, I think you'll have a hard time finding a game with bigger expectations behind it than Netrunner doing quite as badly as Netrunner did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T09:54:37.320" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11078" CreationDate="2013-02-09T13:52:07.833" Score="7" ViewCount="4563" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the 'Nisei MK II' card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place 1 agenda counter on Nisei MK II when you score it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hosted agenda counter:&lt;/strong&gt; End the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this really means that you get a free 'End the run' that the corporation can use a any time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T16:31:28.257" Title="How to use 'Nisei MK II' free 'End the run'?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11079" CreationDate="2013-02-09T14:54:21.803" Score="7" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is clearly stated in the rules that Memory Units (MU) only apply to 'installed' programs.  By 'installed' I mean installed on the runner's rig. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I read the &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ZU.13 Key Master&lt;/a&gt; card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] the memory cost of ZU.13 Key Master is 0, even if it is not installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to imply that a program's MUs count even when not installed.  As if they would count in your grip. Nothing in the rules supports that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain this card please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="18439" LastEditDate="2017-11-03T03:42:43.740" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T03:42:43.740" Title="Does ZU.13 Key Master confuse the MU rule?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11081" CreationDate="2013-02-09T15:11:15.387" Score="14" ViewCount="66529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have made up some custom MtG cards, and I am trying to get physical copies made (to mess with my friends, and for casual use). Does anyone know where I can get them made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclamer: These cards will be clearly fake, and for personal use only. I'm not trying pull any shenanigans here. In the interest of openness, a graphical list of the cards can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://imgur.com/a/bSole&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The back will be a custom back that I am still working on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4882" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T05:28:51.410" Title="Where can I get custom Magic: the Gathering cards printed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11075" CreationDate="2013-02-09T16:18:40.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you get one 'End the Run' ability&lt;/strong&gt;, because the card has one hosted agenda counter. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards can also host counters and tokens. Hosted counters or tokens can be spent, or leave play, without affecting their host. If a trigger cost requires one or more hosted counters, those counters must be spent (retuened to the token bank) from the card that the ability appears on. (page 22)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paid Abilities&lt;/strong&gt; - Some card abilities have trigger costs that a player must pay before the effect of the ability can be resolved. These abilities are called paid abilities. A card’s trigger cost is always listed in its text box before the effect, following the format “cost: effect.” (page 11, sidebar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T16:18:40.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11076" CreationDate="2013-02-09T16:21:28.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The reason for the &quot;even if it is not installed&quot; language is to allow you to install ZU.13 Key Master even if you are already at your MU limit.&lt;/strong&gt; You are of course correct that cards in your grip do not count against your MU limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain formally: p. 6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/ADN01_Rules_ENG_Lo-Res.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards in the grip are inactive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and from p. 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An inactive card’s abilities do not affect the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So without that phrase, ZU.13's ability to not cost MU would not work until it was already in play, and if you were at your MU limit, you would still have to trash some other installed program before you installed it. With that phrase, the card's intent is achieved, which is that it &quot;costs&quot; 0 MU as long as you have at least 2 link strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T16:21:28.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11075" CreationDate="2013-02-09T16:31:28.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;user1873's answer is correct. To clarify further, the Corp will probably choose to use Nisei's ability at phase 4.3 of the &quot;Timing Structure of a Run&quot; diagram located in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;. After the Runner has bypassed the final piece of ice, approached the server, and decided whether to jack out or continue the run, but before the run is considered successful, there is one final chance to use paid abilities such as Nisei's. It is during this final chance that you will use Nisei's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intuition is telling you that this is a powerful ability, your intuition is right. There is some BGG discussion &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/852648/nisei-mk-ii&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. 4 cost for 2 agenda points is a bit on the steep side, but the ability is extraordinarily powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-02-09T16:31:28.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11077" CreationDate="2013-02-09T19:46:08.923" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've printed decks to playtest with friends before buying the actual cards. I just went to a local print shop. Everywhere has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't bother printing backs. I just sleeved the cards. For rigidity, I backed them with real cards or those silly advertisement cards you get in booster packs. As long as you do that for every card in the deck, it should shuffle correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the images from &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info&quot;&gt;magiccards.info&lt;/a&gt; since they have a higher resolution than Gatherer's. To get the cards to display right, I create an &lt;code&gt;.html&lt;/code&gt; file with the following content and print it to a PDF using my browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;style&amp;gt;&#xA;IMG {&#xA;   height: 3.46875in;&#xA;   width:  2.46875in;&#xA;}&#xA;&amp;lt;/style&amp;gt;&#xA;&#xA;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image1.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image1.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image1.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image1.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image2.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image2.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image2.jpg&quot;&#xA;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;img src=&quot;image2.jpg&quot;&#xA;...&#xA;&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-10T00:03:39.953" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T00:03:39.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11068" CreationDate="2013-02-10T15:25:05.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When White hanes at 10, you need to play 11 at 13, then connect after he does. You cannot answer a contact move with a non-contact move in this situation (and most others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T15:25:05.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11064" CreationDate="2013-02-10T15:28:47.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a counterpincer, you need to think about sacrificing one stone or the other. One way is to play 14 as in mafuctct's answer, and &quot;let go&quot; of the stone on the right side. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way is to extend one or more spaces to the left of 4, and sacrifice the 2 stone. But since Black played a wide pincer, you should probably develop the 2 stone instead of counterpincering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T15:28:47.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11087" CreationDate="2013-02-10T15:34:47.363" Score="7" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Axis &amp;amp; Allies Europe (first version) for a long time and have never found a real value in using my bombers to run Economic Attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the strength of the bomber is to inflict a lot of damage while supporting ground attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather destroy a tank that cost 5 IPCs plus the 3 turns to get it to the front than to gamble on the off-chance that I could remove 6 IPCs in an Economic Attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I seeing this wrong? Is there an advantage to Economic Attacks that I'm not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="2547" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T20:38:17.137" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T23:22:14.530" Title="In A&amp;A-Europe - When does an economic attack makes sense?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2013-02-10T18:19:36.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest advantage, as I see it, is that the effects of a successful economic attack are more widespread.  So while throwing your bombers into battle at your front can help make that battle more decisive, throwing your bombers on a Strategic Bombing Run can &lt;em&gt;impair the defender's ability to reinforce any other front on the map&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for example, you're strong on one front but one of your allies (or one of your other fronts) is being pummeled, a Strategic Bombing Run would let you take some heat off without (or in addition to) turning around and reinforcing it directly (which not only takes time, but also weakens your original line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, overwhelming your opponent can be a good tactic, but sometimes all you need to do is hold the line long enough for reinforcements to arrive, or for your allies to break through elsewhere.  And if you can do that without committing (all of) your bombers to the battle, the territory-wide effects of a well-timed economic attack can be significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe during WW2 was &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a one-front war.  So when committing your bombers, just ask yourself how important any particular front is right now to the overall war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Full disclosure: I've played A&amp;amp;A, but never A&amp;amp;A:Europe in particular.  Feel free to downvote me to oblivion if this post isn't actually useful and/or applicable.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T18:19:36.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2013-02-10T22:21:28.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The economic war works best when you have no good military targets to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose all your potential targets are filled with infantry (3 IPCs), which can absorb losses, while there are enemy fighters to &quot;kill&quot; your bomber. Then it might be worth trying to destroy 6 IPCs, while having only a one in six chance of your bomber getting shot down vy antiaircraft fire. The expected value of the damage to the industrial complex is 3.5 IPCs, slightly more than the value of the infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if there are good targets of artillery, tanks or planes that your bomber can reach, it would be better to attack them, because they are worth more than 3.5 IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-20T23:22:14.530" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T23:22:14.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11084" CreationDate="2013-02-10T22:23:26.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before the latest adjustments to 1940 editions, bombing has not been a favorite by players in  &lt;a href=&quot;http://triplea.sourceforge.net/mywiki&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tripleA&lt;/a&gt; and in A&amp;amp;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/forums/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;forums&lt;/a&gt;. Personally I disregard it as well as most friends I play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'd rather destroy a tank that cost 5 IPCs plus 3 turns to get to the&#xA;  front than to gamble on the off-chance that I could remove 6 IPCs in&#xA;  an Economic Attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to all editions of A&amp;amp;A. I agree, and I would add two more significant reasons not to bomb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are risking loosing a bomber (expensive unit)&#xA;and most importantly:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that bomber is bombing there.. what is it not doing?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bombers can do many thing, ranging from a sacrifice (I.E. clearing out an infantry unit to open the path for an allied blitz) to desperate defense (I.E. Need to defend moscow one turn and with range 6, only bombers can reach). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this version bombing is even more crippled because of the escort rules. The defender gains even more advantage. I never saw a game were bombing was decisive.  The only thing I can point out is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russia has usually only one fighter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If Leningrad and or Archangel have fallen, as germany you may be just waiting to more units to have better odds in Moscow's last stand; a SBR can help in that turn that you don't assault and want to deal some damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Germany is going to take Archangel/Leningrad?  Move the AA's out of there and when they conquer, you may have a free money drain as allies. That bomber is going to hang around for a final stand in moscow or Dday.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even in these scenarios, there is usually an alternative to the SBR. We have sometimes adopted a house rule for AA fire on bombings:  roll once to abort (on 2 or less); if suceed , roll once more to destroy (2 or less). Even then bombings are rare&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2013-02-10T22:23:26.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11091" CreationDate="2013-02-11T11:54:30.450" Score="7" ViewCount="14286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently read a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/return-to-ravnica-set-review-conclusion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;review&lt;/a&gt; about Return to Ravnica and the reviewer says that, for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20Garden&quot;&gt;Temple Garden&lt;/a&gt; is way better than &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Selesnya%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Selesnya Guildgate&lt;/a&gt;. Can someone point out the reasons behind that? Additionally, why is Temple Garden called a Shockland?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T18:02:40.733" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T18:44:43.430" Title="Why are Shocklands better than Guildgates?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2013-02-11T12:13:19.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flexibility.&lt;/strong&gt; If you choose to have the land enter tapped, then the cards are no different, but only Temple Garden gives you any choice at all. The difference from being able to use that mana on the turn that you play it may amount to less life lost than the 2 you pay to have it enter untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; was the quintessential burn spell for a while when WotC thought that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; was too quick and powerful. Shock was released in multiple base sets, and since it deals 2 damage, people called the cycle of lands that deal 2 damage to you Shocklands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T12:18:47.670" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T12:18:47.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2013-02-11T13:17:50.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to user1873's existing answer: as you say, the fact that Shocklands have the same land types as basic lands (e.g. &quot;Forest Plains&quot;) is huge.  It means you can fetch them up with Fetchlands, or any other spell that looks for a Forest or a Plains (though not of course &quot;a basic Forest&quot;, or &quot;a basic Plains').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A manabase judiciously combining both Fetchlands and Shocklands is pretty close to the ultimate way of having the right colour of mana available exactly when you need it, in a 3+ colour deck.  And if you're using fetches to get your Shocklands at the end of your opponent's turn, the &quot;comes into play tapped&quot; restriction isn't even a drawback, at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T13:17:50.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2013-02-11T14:16:18.447" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shocklands (which allow you to &quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShock%5d&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;&quot; yourself in order to get an untapped land) have many advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good color depth without loss of tempo&lt;/strong&gt;. Oftentimes, getting your land into play untapped is worth two life; shocklands give you the option to set that up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Excellent color-fixing with fetch effects&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The synergy between shocklands and fetchlands is what makes Modern mana bases so strong. I can crack a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMisty%20Rainforest%5d&quot;&gt;Misty Rainforest&lt;/a&gt; and get any of these color combinations: W/G, W/U, U/B, U/R, U/G, B/G, R/G. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6397/1910&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; for more information about the shocks + fetches style of mana base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We can have four- and five-color decks in Innistrad/RTR Standard thanks to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFarseek%5d&quot;&gt;Farseek&lt;/a&gt;'s ability to fetch any of the ten shocklands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shocklands interact positively with other cards that care about basic land types as well. In particular:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shocks power up M13 and Innistrad &quot;buddy&quot; lands (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSunpetal%20Grove%5d&quot;&gt;Sunpetal Grove&lt;/a&gt;), which require you to have lands of specific basic land types in play. In a three-color deck, a single shock in play is sufficient to make every single one of your &quot;buddy&quot; lands enter play untapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shocklands have powerful synergy with &quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKird%20Ape%5d&quot;&gt;Kird Ape&lt;/a&gt;&quot; creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWild%20Nacatl%5d&quot;&gt;Wild Nacatl&lt;/a&gt; (which was once banned from Modern for being too consistent of a 3/3 on turn 2) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFlinthoof%20Boar%5d&quot;&gt;Flinthoof Boar&lt;/a&gt; (which saw tournament play in Standard Gruul decks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T18:44:43.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11094" CreationDate="2013-02-11T15:26:01.267" Score="4" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;Project Atlas is a Corporation agenda that can be over-advanced to provide agenda counters for the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hosted agenda counter: Search R&amp;amp;D for 1 card, reveal it, and add it to HQ. Shuffle R&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it has no [Click] requirement, I understand that I can use this ability during the Runner's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine that I have a scored Project Atlas with a counter on it and the Runner runs on HQ. They pass the last ICE. &lt;strong&gt;Before the Runner accesses HQ, can I use this ability to fetch (say) a Snare into my HQ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, must I do it before they choose to access (so that they could see me add the card and then jack out without accessing)? Or can I do it after they confirm that they want to access a card, giving them no opportunity to jack out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T16:33:03.613" Title="Can I use Project Atlas just before the Runner accesses cards from HQ?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2013-02-11T16:27:55.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use paid abilities at any point in the timing diagram with the symbol for using paid abilities. There is an option after runner chooses weather to Jack-out or continue to access the server where you can do this. The runner will then have to access your HQ, unless he has used something like Account Siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T16:27:55.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11092" CreationDate="2013-02-11T16:33:03.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), specifically the section on the timing of a run, I believe I can now answer my own question. The relevant steps read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 The Runner APPROACHES the attacked server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.1 [Paid abilities]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.2 The Runner decides whether to continue the run.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        ...Either the Runner JACKS OUT: [end the run unsuccessfully]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        ...Or the Runner continues the run: go to 4.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.3 [Paid abilities and non-ice can be rezzed]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.4 The run is considered to be successful. (‘When successful’ conditionals meet their trigger conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.5 Access cards, then [end the run].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on these clarifications, &lt;strong&gt;you may use the ability before or after the Runner decides if they'd like to access.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T16:33:03.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-11T17:07:46.967" Score="8" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone remember a board game called PALM BEACH or something to that effect that was played similar to monopoly ? I am looking for a copy or more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can remember, The characters all started out with $1,000,000 dollars except &quot;the count&quot; who started out with $500,000 -- that is the most distinct memory of the game I have that might assist someone in remembering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound familiar to anyone ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it was not &quot;palm-beach-opoloy&quot; nor was it a monopoly re-skin - it was a distinct game onto itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Followup Q&amp;amp;A:&#xA;Q: when did you play it ? &#xA;A: it must have been around 20 years back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4889" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T19:12:24.180" LastActivityDate="2020-10-23T21:18:07.153" Title="A board game called PALM BEACH or something to that effect" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11095" CreationDate="2013-02-11T17:42:10.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It most likely was a reskin of Monopoly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B002QL6B2C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palm Beachopoly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T17:42:10.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11095" CreationDate="2013-02-11T17:45:01.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does this ring any bells? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.barnesandnoble.com/p/toys-games-palm-beach-opoly-game/22913084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palm Beachopoly&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Want a slice of paradise? Palm Beachopoly will let you buy, sell and&#xA;  build an empire in beautiful Palm Beach County, Florida even if it's&#xA;  only on paper. This fun-filled game, which features a historic hotel,&#xA;  local attractions, shopping districts, charitable foundations, and&#xA;  much more is a perfect way to experience Palm Beach County...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I haven't been successful in learning anything about the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, there are a large number &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epinions.com/kifm-Toys-All/skp_~1/dl_~/search_vertical_~all/search_string_~late-for-the-sky-palm-beachopoly-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;of weird and wacky Monopoly-like games&lt;/a&gt; out there. I wouldn't expect too much gameplay depth, though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T17:45:01.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11099" CreationDate="2013-02-11T18:46:09.990" Score="12" ViewCount="26002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a deck that features &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProgenitus%5d&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; as my Commander and started looking at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFist%20of%20Suns%5d&quot;&gt;Fist of Suns&lt;/a&gt;. Besides just being good because of the large number of high cost spells in the deck, I was curious how this worked with my Commander on every cast beyond the first. And honestly, I'm not entirely sure how to word this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each cast of the Commander, the mana cost is increased by 2 colorless. The Fist of Suns Oracle text says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can't pay more than one alternative cost for a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the additional colorless cost added after the first casting of a Commander count as alternative costs? Can I use Fist of Suns to make the cost of Progenitus WUBRG every time, or just the first time it is cast? I know that it can't be cast for WUBRG plus the additional colorless, since it seems unreasonable to combine mana costs like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="20266" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T22:44:53.837" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T22:44:53.837" Title="How does Fist of Suns work with my Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11098" CreationDate="2013-02-11T18:56:46.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fist%20of%20Suns&quot;&gt;Fist of Suns&lt;/a&gt; only replaces the mana cost. The mana cost is the cost written in the top-right corner of the card [CR 202.1]. You seem to think it's the total cost or the portion of the total cost payable using mana, but that's not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fist of Suns doesn't replace any additional costs or cost increases, so you still have to pay the Commander tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In game terms,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fist%20of%20Suns&quot;&gt;Fist of Suns&lt;/a&gt; provides an &lt;em&gt;alternative cost&lt;/em&gt; [CR 117.9].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Commander tax is an &lt;em&gt;additional cost&lt;/em&gt; [CR 903.10].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost to cast the second time&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= mana cost or alternative cost + additional cost and cost increases - cost reductions [CR 601.2e]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= alternative cost ({W}{U}{B}{R}{G}) + additional costs ({2})&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= {W}{U}{B}{R}{G}{2}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T23:23:07.197" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T23:23:07.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11095" CreationDate="2013-02-11T19:15:03.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only result for a search of &quot;Palm Beach&quot; on BoardGameGeek is &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/26121/palm-beach-island-resort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Palm Beach Island Resort&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's almost no information available, but there is a brief description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Palm Beach Island Resort is described as a tactical game. By placing needed infrastructure onto the spaces of the Island, a tourist resort is created that will be visited by guests from around the world. The goal of the game is to build Bungalows and encourage the tourists to part with their money; that is, make a tidy profit. Each player acts as a travel agent trying to fill his bungalows up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this was it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T19:15:03.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11095" CreationDate="2013-02-11T19:55:38.540" Score="19" Body="&lt;h3&gt;This must be it.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqbmu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Palm Beach&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1976 Board game:  &lt;em&gt;Palm Beach&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.palmbeachdailynews.com/news/lifestyles/blast-from-the-past-groovy-vintage-palm-beach-find/nWDNK/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.palmbeachdailynews.com/news/lifestyles/blast-from-the-past-groovy-vintage-palm-beach-find/nWDNK/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Found an old ebay listing with more photos here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1976-Palm-Beach-Game-Complete-Monopoly-Style-Board-Entertaining-Fun-/230915467545?nma=true&amp;amp;si=w8Yhok%252BHv7Zg0Y1acAhEKk1lbZU%253D&amp;amp;orig_cvip=true&amp;amp;rt=nc&amp;amp;_trksid=p2047675.l2557&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1976-Palm-Beach-Game-Complete-Monopoly-Style-Board-Entertaining-Fun-/230915467545?nma=true&amp;amp;si=w8Yhok%252BHv7Zg0Y1acAhEKk1lbZU%253D&amp;amp;orig_cvip=true&amp;amp;rt=nc&amp;amp;_trksid=p2047675.l2557&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-02-11T20:04:30.573" LastActivityDate="2013-02-11T20:04:30.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10933" CreationDate="2013-02-11T20:49:36.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a pattern where I move the units on the front(s) first and work my way backward toward my industry(ies).  I also picture a front like a line of territories followed by other lines of territories.  When moving I can then take care of each 'lines' one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way I never move units into a territory where local units will have to be moved later and, most of the times, I only have to manage each territory once.  This prevents the confusion of the back-and-forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to avoid confusion, I never leave a chip(s) without a unit piece on top of it.  It's more manipulations but it's much safer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="2547" LastEditDate="2013-02-16T20:36:44.020" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T20:36:44.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11105" CreationDate="2013-02-12T04:46:20.607" Score="4" ViewCount="5880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just came by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Realmwright&quot;&gt;Realmwright&lt;/a&gt; and it didn't give any discussion on whether the changed lands are permanently changed or not if the creature leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any info on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T06:12:56.873" Title="If Realmwright is removed from the battlefield, do the changed lands remain dual colored?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-12T05:02:04.087" Score="12" ViewCount="31778" Body="&lt;p&gt;I destroyed my opponent's permanent with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPutrefy%5d&quot;&gt;Putrefy&lt;/a&gt;, an Instant that reads: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy target artifact or creature.  It can't be regenerated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He returned it to the top of his library with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGolgari%20Thug%5d&quot;&gt;Golgari Thug&lt;/a&gt; because it went to the graveyard (is it supposed to go to the graveyard?). Golgari Thug reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Golgari Thug dies, put target creature card from your graveyard on top of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whats going on? I destroyed a card and I thought it cannot be regenerated.  When Putrefy says, &quot;It can't be regenerated&quot; is it actually a counter for a card that can be regenerated?  For example:  Opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bManor%20Skeleton%5d&quot;&gt;Manor Skeleton&lt;/a&gt; that has: “{1}{B}: Regenerate Manor Skeleton”.  I target it with Putrefy. Is his Manor Skeleton's regenerate ability countered and does it go to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does, &quot;It can't be regenerated&quot; mean &quot;It can not be regenerated from the graveyard&quot;, or does it counter a regeneration ability?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:55:12.107" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T10:55:12.107" Title="What does, &quot;It can't be regenerated&quot; mean?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11103" CreationDate="2013-02-12T05:02:52.017" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;, they'll lose whatever type they're given when Realmwright leaves the battlefield. The reason is that Realmwright has a &lt;em&gt;static ability&lt;/em&gt; that creates a continuous effect that dictates that the lands are of the given type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3d Static abilities are written as statements. They're simply true. Static abilities create continuous effects which are active&#xA;  while the permanent with the ability is on the battlefield and has the&#xA;  ability, or while the object with the ability is in the appropriate&#xA;  zone. See rule 604, &quot;Handling Static Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Realmwright's ability is the source of the continuous effect giving the lands the specified type, the effect will end as soon as Realmwright leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T06:12:56.873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T06:12:56.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11104" CreationDate="2013-02-12T05:25:41.260" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, no. &lt;strong&gt;Regenerate&lt;/strong&gt; has a very specific meaning. From the Comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.12a If the effect of a resolving spell or ability regenerates a permanent, it creates a replacement effect that protects the permanent the next time it would be destroyed this turn. In this case, “&lt;strong&gt;Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.&lt;/strong&gt;”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what Golgari Thug did, was not regeneration. Instead, it put a creature from the graveyard on top of its owner's library. Regeneration would have stopped the creature from being destroyed and placed in the graveyard in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putrefy specifically prevents creatures from being regenerated after being destroyed by its effect. This doesn't counter regeneration (at least not in the MtG sense of the word), but prevents regeneration from happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &quot;can't&quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T05:25:41.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-12T06:09:11.350" Score="3" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mask%20of%20Avacyn&quot;&gt;Mask of Avacyn&lt;/a&gt; be targeted by spells after it's been equipped to a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an odd question, because the mask gives the equipped creature a +1/+2 and has hexproof  and says it &amp;quot;can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponent controls&amp;quot;, where &amp;quot;it&amp;quot; refers to the equipped creature. However, can your opponent use a spell or ability to directly destroy the Mask of Avacyn (in this case an Artifact - Equipment card)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Mask of Avacyn is attached to a creature.  Can my opponent use the Planeswalker ability of Nicol Bolas that reads: &amp;quot;Destroy target noncreature permanent&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, can my opponent use a spell card that reads, &amp;quot;Destroy target permanent&amp;quot; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Recoil&quot;&gt;Recoil&lt;/a&gt;, an Instant that reads:, &amp;quot;Return target permanent to its owner's hand. Then that player discards a card&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T06:38:13.160" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T07:18:42.430" Title="Can the Mask of Avacyn be targeted by spells after being equipped to a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11108" CreationDate="2013-02-12T06:18:41.907" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The Mask doesn't have &lt;em&gt;hexproof&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;shroud&lt;/em&gt; or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when attached, the equipment and the equipped creature are two separate permanents. Only the creature gets +1/+2 and hexproof. Nothing in the scenario you described gives the Mask any abilities (such as hexproof) when attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T07:18:42.430" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T07:18:42.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11112" CreationDate="2013-02-12T06:22:48.827" Score="10" ViewCount="8880" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elbrus%2C%20the%20Binding%20Blade&quot;&gt;Elbrus, the Binding Blade&lt;/a&gt;, is a Legendary Artifact - Equipment that transforms into Withengar Unbound, a Black Legendary Demon. Can I use Elbrus/Withengar as a Commander, and if I can, is my deck colorless or black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4841" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-12T06:27:22.990" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T17:00:28.087" Title="Can I use Elbrus as my Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11110" CreationDate="2013-02-12T06:29:37.653" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elbrus%2C%20the%20Binding%20Blade&quot;&gt;Elbrus, the Binding Blade&lt;/a&gt; is not a Legendary Creature, so it cannot be your Commander. It doesn't matter that it could become a creature. In fact, I'd be surprise if there is a card that couldn't become a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;711.2a In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield with its front face up, a double-faced card has only the characteristics of the front face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T06:29:37.653" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11110" CreationDate="2013-02-12T15:24:43.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&amp;amp;t=11327&amp;amp;start=11&quot;&gt;an official ruling from Sheldon Mennery&lt;/a&gt;, who is the authoritative source for Commander rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[O] Elbrus is not playable as a General, and its color identity is Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-02-12T15:24:43.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-12T22:14:57.837" Score="9" ViewCount="2428" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the comprehensive rules, the definition of shuffling is thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.16a To shuffle a library or a face-down pile of cards, randomize the cards within it so that no player knows their order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use a proxy (an honest, third party entity) to search your deck for a desired card (let's say you used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demonic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Demonic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;), then when the proxy has located and presented you with the card, you still have no knowledge of the order of the cards. [note 1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since as far as you or your opponent(s) know, the deck is entirely randomized, is it necessary to go through the act of physically moving cards around? It seems that it already meets the requirements of a randomized deck. Sure, the cards are in the same order as they were before, but since there was no prior knowledge, there is no present knowledge. [note 2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it strictly necessary to go through the physical process of shuffling if you use a proxy to dig through your deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note 1: This assumes there were no previous 'place on top of your library' or similar effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note 2: This assumes your proxy will yield no information or provide assistance based on the knowledge gained by looking in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T07:59:28.587" Title="Does 'shuffle your library' mandate that the cards actually change order?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|shuffling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11113" CreationDate="2013-02-12T23:15:46.043" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Jefromi points out, the deck is not left in a randomised state unless there's only one of the card being removed in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you could pick one of the matching cards at random, but that becomes complicated and error prone. (What if there are three matching card, but the 3rd party only sees two?) I would not accept this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original post follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what circumstance would there be a neutral 3rd party handling your deck? But ok, let's assume that's somehow the case. From the tournament rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Randomization is defined as bringing the deck to a state where no player can have any information regarding the order or position of cards in any portion of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So technically, it is randomised. I'm assuming you okayed it with your opponent, otherwise, the following could apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the opponent does not believe the player made a reasonable effort to randomize his or her deck, the opponent must notify a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At Competitive and Professional REL tournaments, players are &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt; to shuffle their opponents’ decks after their owners have shuffled them. The Head Judge can require this at Regular REL tournaments as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, a judge may insist you are also required to actually shuffle the deck. Why don't you ask your judge since it really comes down to what he thinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quotes come from the Tournament Rules. They apply to Competitive and Pro REL, but that's the only place your question really matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T04:18:08.047" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T04:18:08.047" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11117" CreationDate="2013-02-13T01:12:40.610" Score="13" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Cities&lt;/em&gt; expansion comes with 3 diplomacy tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each game there could be 4 (5 with Manneken Pis) ways to get a token:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age I City card: &lt;strong&gt;Residence&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age II City card: &lt;strong&gt;Consulate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Age III City card: &lt;strong&gt;Embassy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wonder: &lt;strong&gt;Byzantium&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;side A: 1 token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;side B: 2 tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Wonder: &lt;strong&gt;Manneken Pis&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when all three tokens are in use and now another token is needed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example scenario: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 players:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob has wonder Byzantium (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice has wonder Halicarnassus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Susan (any wonder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dave (any wonder)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Age III:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob builds both wonder stages → 2 tokens (1 left)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice builds a wonder stage and builds Residence from the discard pile → 1 token (0 left)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Susan builds Embassy from her hand → &lt;strong&gt;1 token needed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Susan get a virtual diplomacy token or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T19:04:11.110" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T19:04:11.110" Title="What to do when all 3 diplomacy tokens are in use and you need a 4th?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11113" CreationDate="2013-02-13T05:46:21.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a tournament: No. Never. Definitely no. The MTR refers to &amp;quot;shuffling&amp;quot; (as well as cutting) and &amp;quot;randomization&amp;quot; in the same breath. A judge could permit another person to shuffle for you, but not shuffling at all -- regardless of who is responsible for &amp;quot;randomization&amp;quot; -- is &lt;em&gt;deeply&lt;/em&gt; sketchy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more casual setting, you might be able to convince your friends to let you do this. The important thing to note is that there are lots of situations that can violate your assumption about library ordering even in a deck without &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt; effects. You'll need to actually shuffle if you're searching your deck after a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terminus&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt;, for example. Imagine casting your search spell six turns after that Terminus -- are you sure you'll be able to remember whether or not you've given your deck a real shuffle since?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My other concern is logistical. Not shuffling is faster than shuffling. However, you're not just skipping the shuffle. You're replacing it with handing your deck to another player and describing the card you want. If you're playing a card that doesn't force you to reveal what you searched up, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demonic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Demonic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;, you'll also want to figure out a way to communicate this information &lt;em&gt;secretly&lt;/em&gt;. I think most players could do 3-4 riffles in the time it takes to accomplish these tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that you're missing out on a significant advantage of searching your deck: the ability to look over your cards before you commit to a choice. It's not hard when you &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cultivate&quot;&gt;Cultivate&lt;/a&gt; in a mono-green deck, but how about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gifts%20Ungiven&quot;&gt;Gifts Ungiven&lt;/a&gt;? I'd much rather think a bit, cast the spell, then finalize my decision while looking at my library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for alternatives to shuffling because you're playing an unorthodox deck, you can find some advice in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/php/news/print.php?Article=17034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abe Sergeant's article explaining how he &amp;quot;shuffles&amp;quot; a 1500-card deck&lt;/a&gt;. None of this will be a perfect facsimile of shuffling but the assumption is that it is &amp;quot;good enough.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-13T18:58:58.470" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T18:58:58.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11115" CreationDate="2013-02-13T10:42:20.420" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's pretty safe to say that there are only 3 Diplomacy tokens provided because the scenarios in which 4 or 5 Diplomacy tokens are required at once are so vanishingly rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I discovered from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11000/do-you-get-2-coins-from-xenophon-for-yellow-cards-put-into-play-by-halicarnassus&quot;&gt;previous discussions of the finer points of the rules terminology&lt;/a&gt; (and I went so far as to double-check with the game designer Antoine Bauza via Twitter!), 7 Wonders is not a game where you need to obsess about the minutiae.  In unusual corner cases, things probably work in a commonsense sort of way, no need to over think then.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no obvious reason why a player should be deprived of a Diplomacy token because 3 have already been taken already; and certainly no available justification for taking somebody else's Diplomacy token that has already been given out!  In the unusual event that more than 3 Diplomacy tokens are required at once, I believe the sensible course of action is just to use something else as a stand-in Diplomacy token for the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-02-13T10:42:20.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-14T10:07:33.240" Score="5" ViewCount="1696" Body="&lt;p&gt;For some play-by-forum games I'm looking into creating specific card based games that allow people to moderate on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically I'm looking into 7 Wonders. The only thing a mod needs to do is distribute hands at the beginning of each Age (including Leaders). Once everyone has received his initial hand he can just pick a card and send the rest along to his neighbor. For this we've used a token (just post DONE after you've picked your card) after which you'll receive your next hand from your neighbor. Obviously this requires some trust that you've actually picked a card and not just posted that you've done this, but on our forum it hasn't been an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leaves me with shuffling and drawing cards. Is there any way (an online app maybe) to allow people to draw cards from the same deck without seeing the cards that have been drawn by the other players? The order that they draw cards in doesn't matter much as long as each player just gets a hand of 7 random cards and gets it only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4904" LastActivityDate="2018-12-04T11:46:32.957" Title="Looking for an Online Card Shuffler and Drawer" Tags="|7-wonders|online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2013-02-14T16:02:03.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best strategy for the Axis is to focus on Russia.  If you take Russia you win.  Germany must take out UK sea to defend against a back door attack, that way all the tanks and infantry can overwhelm Russia.  Japan must buy Industrial Complexes on 2 of the 3 Asia lands, buy tanks there and use transports to bring in all infantry from the islands and also take out Pearl Harbor sea on the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way the Allies can beat this is if they focus on Germany.  Russia builds a lot to slow them down assuming they can't attack first turn, and the Allies must get a foot hold on Germany that causes him to fight a two front war.  Russia move sea to UK territory, and UK buys an aircraft carrier with 2 planes, then load up on the transports when you know you can defend against Germany's air.  US build up transports and infantry so that once UK breaks Western Germany's line and gets a foot, US can add on with lots of infantry and fighters.  If Germany is not harassed on the west boarder then Russia will be easy once Japan arrives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra money from Africa is nice but don't put any extra resources in taking it for that will only take away your chance for taking Germany or hurt Germany's chance for taking Russia.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4905" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-14T16:34:22.393" LastActivityDate="2013-02-14T16:34:22.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11134" CreationDate="2013-02-14T17:16:33.993" Score="7" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ghost Stories you can exorcise two ghosts at once if you are on a corner and there is a ghost on each space adjacent to you. I played a game where I successfully exorcised both of these ghosts but then had to roll the curse die for each of them. The first roll of the curse die caused me to lose a Qi which killed me. Do I still roll the second curse die? If it again comes up that I lose a Qi, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am already dead and there are ghosts on my board that cause me to roll the curse die on the Yin phase and I have to lose a Qi, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T13:26:28.533" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T13:26:28.533" Title="Curse die rolls by dead taoists" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-15T07:02:08.203" Score="13" ViewCount="18898" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature is placed &quot;under my control until the end of turn&quot; through a sorcery spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have the option of sacrificing said creature if I cast a &quot;sacrifice a creature&quot; instant, or have a creature or enchantment that has a sacrifice ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4907" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T09:01:22.303" LastActivityDate="2020-12-11T15:26:34.547" Title="Can I sacrifice a creature that is only temporarily under my control?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11124" CreationDate="2013-02-15T07:07:59.093" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.16a To sacrifice a permanent, &lt;strong&gt;its controller&lt;/strong&gt; moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T20:09:36.777" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T20:09:36.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11128" CreationDate="2013-02-15T12:30:21.450" Score="8" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic On The Brink, the wording for the &quot;New Assignment&quot; special event card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any player (including the current player) may discard their current Role card and select a new one from the unused ones in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our reading of this card is that &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; players may chose to change their role cards when this card is played. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T12:37:21.637" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T13:12:02.293" Title="Can all players change roles with &quot;New Assigment&quot;?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-15T12:33:06.223" Score="8" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the bio-terrorist is eliminated from play (via the purple disease being eradicated), should they discard their current hand of infection cards to the infection discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T13:29:50.270" Title="When the bio-terrorist is eliminated, do they discard their cards?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11126" CreationDate="2013-02-15T13:12:02.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; player can change their role. The game's designer Tom Lehmann answered this in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/494697/clarification-of-the-new-assignment-special-event&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Matt's and my intent is that any &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; player may change their role. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T13:12:02.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-15T13:17:13.197" Score="2" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;This example is from Victor Mollo's &quot;Test Your Defense, Where the Points are Won.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are East. The bidding has been 1NT pass 3NT pass. West leads what looks to be the fourth highest spade. You hold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) Axx (H) KQJ9 (d) Kx (c) xxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dummy shows (s) Kxx (h) Txx (d) Axxx (c) Kxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You take the ace of spades. Normally you would return a spade, partner's suit. But Mollo recommends establishing the hearts for a &quot;set.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key features are: 1) Dummy's T falls under your J, making the 9 good 2) you have the guarded K of diamonds &quot;offside&quot; the ace, hence a sure entry and 3) You have 13 of your partnerhip's HCP.  West has the J of spades at most (Q if South has only 15 HCP). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is your strength the reason you should deviate from the usual rule of returning partner's suit? Should you return your partner's suit if you didn't have the heart honors (meaning that partner has about 7 HCP), or if you had only the A of spades (partner has  about 10)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if you were &quot;West&quot; (on lead), would you lead differently with the three different hypothetical hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-02-15T17:05:43.463" LastActivityDate="2019-07-24T16:03:40.933" Title="In bridge, should a defender play differently with most, about half, or few of the partnership's points?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11127" CreationDate="2013-02-15T13:29:50.270" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/OTB/PandemicOTB_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; don't specifically say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Bio-Terrorist wins if the players lose and there is at least 1 purple cube &#xA;  on the board. &lt;strong&gt;The Bio-Terrorist immediately loses (and is out of the game) if &#xA;  the players eradicate the purple disease&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are out of the game, but it doesn't say what to do with their cards. Personally, I would just have them discard the cards in their hand, since that should make it easier for the other players (a more diluted infection deck), and that is what normally happens when the Bio-Terrorist is captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Capture (special player action)&lt;/strong&gt; - Place the Bio-Terrorist’s pawn on your role card. The Bio-Terrorist must immediately discard all cards in hand to the Infection Discard Pile (without eﬀect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T13:29:50.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2013-02-15T14:07:17.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the number of points in your hand it the relevant feature here at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you look at your hand, and see that you can easily take down the contract if you establish your 3 hearts winners &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; your opportunity to regain the lead with the KD is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning a spade isn't going to help much as we're pretty certain partner isn't going to win that trick with his Jack.  As such, you have to forget the &quot;usual rule&quot; of returning partner's lead, which isn't going to help in the current situation, and just make the best play for beating the contract instead.  Partner has basically nothing, and you have an excellent defensive hand here: it's not up to him to dictate the whole play of this contract via his lead, just because of the seat he happens to be sitting in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T14:07:17.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11129" CreationDate="2013-02-15T16:17:22.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, defensive strategy can vary considerably depending on where the points are in your partnership.  Your real goal is to look for tricks, of course, but often points are a good guide as to where the tricks are going to be.  There are exceptions, of course, so you must take each hand by itself, but generally if one defender has many more points than the other, that is where the bulk of the tricks will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand you describe is a typical example.  Partner's spades will be difficult or impossible to set up because partner is weak, whereas your hearts are easy to set up because you are strong.  Generally to set up a long suit against no-trump, you need one of the following to be true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Running suit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suit can be set up and you have an outside entry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suit can be set up, partner has entries, and partner has some length in the suit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two cases usually (though not always) require that you have some points.  Occasionally you get the third situation where the weak defender has 5 or 6 of a suit and partner has 3 or 4, enough to set up the suit and then lead to be overtaken by the weak hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A consequence of this is that if you are very weak against no-trump, it is rarely worthwhile trying to set up your own suits, even on the opening lead (unless you have reason to believe partner is also strong in your suit).  Generally you are better off looking for partner's suit to attack.  And if you are the strong defender and your partner is very weak, don't continue partner's suit unless you have help for him.  If the two partners are comparable in strength, the one who leads their suit first has taken the first step to setting the suit up, so it is often advantageous to continue it unless you have a clear alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At suit contracts, matters are less clear-cut, although defenders' points can still serve as a helpful guide.  High cards remain a good source of tricks, and the defender with more points has more of them.  However, a weak defender with a lot of trump or just useful distribution can often take multiple tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T16:17:22.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11540" CreationDate="2013-02-15T18:18:57.453" Score="2" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Phase 10 Twist there are only 10 twist phases.  If everybody drew their own twist phase then we'd run out really quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if more than one person is on a twist phase at a time, do they all play the same twist phase or do they each draw their own phase and we just recycle the cards when we run out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T06:04:51.777" LastActivityDate="2021-01-08T08:02:00.450" Title="If more than one user is on a twist phase do they each draw their own phase?" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11122" CreationDate="2013-02-15T18:45:38.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the situation of dying with an unresolved Curse die isn't addressed specifically in the rulebook, but your second question is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 7 in the rulebook, under &quot;Death of a Taoist&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;His board becomes possessed (see neutral board below) and the ghosts occupying &#xA;  it continue to act, despite the Taoist’s death. The steps 1 &amp;amp; 2 of the Yin phase must &#xA;  be played. The other players will have to suffer the effects and consequences of &#xA;  the ghosts on this board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 10 in the rulebook, under &quot;Possessed Board&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A neutral board that has lost all Qi tokens &#xA;  is called &quot;a possessed board&quot;, Its specific &#xA;  power cannot be used anymore through &#xA;  neutral power tokens. &#xA;  Any further loss of Qi points (i.e. board &#xA;  overrun or tormentor) must be endured by a player of your choice (the green &#xA;  Taoist’s power is ineffective if Qi loss is due to the curse die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a player is dead and a curse die roll triggered by a ghost on the dead player's board causes a loss of 1 Qi, somebody else has to lose the Qi. Whether that somebody else must be decided before or after the roll is made is unclear. I would apply this ruling to the situation you present in your first question as well, the game doesn't want someone to weasel out of a curse die roll!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-02-15T18:45:38.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11136" CreationDate="2013-02-16T08:36:06.113" Score="4" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Kingdom Builder&lt;/em&gt; with &lt;em&gt;Nomads&lt;/em&gt; expansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are the first who builds adjacent to a nomads space, you get the (only) nomads tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you lose it when you move all your settlements away from the nomad space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T08:36:06.113" Title="Do you lose your nomad tile if you move all your settlements away?" Tags="|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11135" CreationDate="2013-02-16T08:36:06.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9524984#9524984&quot;&gt;according to&lt;/a&gt; the game designer &lt;em&gt;Donald X. Vaccarino&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I do not see this in the rulebook, but the intention was that you do not lose the tile, even if you immediately move away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2013-02-16T08:36:06.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11171" CreationDate="2013-02-16T18:06:11.410" Score="4" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding finesses for a missing queen in a key (e.g. trump suit), there is a proverb of &quot;eight ever [always] nine never.&quot;  Instead, one is supposed to play for a drop. (This, and most other proverbs need to be taken with grain of salt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;blind&quot; finesse (without further information), is 50-50. If you have nine cards in a suit headed by the ace and king (and play them to drop the queen), your chances of success are 52.5%. That is, the opposing cards will fall 2-2. 40% of the time. Some 50% of the time, they will be split 3-1.And of these, the singleton will be the queen one-fourth of the time, or 12.5% of the total (40%+12.5%)= 52.5%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose you have one or more finesse possibilities. That is, you have AJxxx. Dummy has KTxx. Then you can lead one of your tops &quot;blindly&quot; and catch the queen 12.5% of the time. A finesse the other way would succeed 50% of the remaining times =.5*87.5% or 43.75%. The total chances of success would be (43.75+12.5%)=56.25%&gt; 52.5%. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a &quot;drop&quot; (top card) play followed by a finesse has an advantage over a pure drop (two top card plays), right? And wouldn't this be even more true if East or West showed strength by opening, meaning that you would finesse &quot;around&quot; him to one hand after playing the top honor in the other hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And wouldn't the exception be if you had only a &quot;one way&quot; finesse e.g. Axxxx opposite dummy's KTxx and East opened, meaning that the Q was probably &quot;offside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-02-16T18:54:29.890" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T20:40:53.347" Title="Is a &quot;drop-finesse&quot; better than a simple &quot;drop&quot; play with a nine card suit in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|tactics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-17T03:46:08.670" Score="3" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bountiful%20Harvest&quot;&gt;Bountiful Harvest&lt;/a&gt;. It's a Sorcery that reads &amp;quot;You gain l life for each land you control.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this refer to only cards that say Land and not Basic Land, or does it count for both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-17T04:46:35.957" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T05:07:12.977" Title="Does the wording &quot;each land&quot; also include Basic Lands?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11138" CreationDate="2013-02-17T03:53:23.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Basic Land is still a land. Any card with &amp;quot;Land&amp;quot; in the type line is a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.1. The type line is printed directly below the illustration. It contains the card's card type(s). It also contains the card's subtype(s) and supertype(s), if applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.2a The card types are artifact, creature, enchantment, instant, land, plane, planeswalker, sorcery, tribal, and vanguard. See section 3,&amp;quot;Card Types.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.5. Land subtypes are always a single word and are listed after a long dash. Land subtypes are also called land types. Lands may have multiple subtypes. See rule 205.3i for the complete list of land types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;Basic Land — Mountain&amp;quot;means the card is a land with the subtype Mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T13:45:58.047" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11138" CreationDate="2013-02-17T05:17:29.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Land&lt;/em&gt; is short for &lt;em&gt;land permanent&lt;/em&gt;, which means &lt;em&gt;permanent that has &amp;quot;land&amp;quot; as one of its types&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter what supertypes it might have, if any. For example, both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt; (basic) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Academy%20Ruins&quot;&gt;Academy Ruins&lt;/a&gt; (legendary) match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter what other types it might have, if any. For example, both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt; (creature) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tree%20of%20Tales&quot;&gt;Tree of Tales&lt;/a&gt; (artifact) match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter what subtypes it might have, if any. For example, both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt; (forest) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Golgari Guildgate&lt;/a&gt; (gate) match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have a three Forests and one Golgari Guildgate, you'll gain four life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T05:07:12.977" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T05:07:12.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4341" CreationDate="2013-02-17T06:17:22.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you can only play cards within your commander's color identity. &lt;strike&gt;Second, you can only produce mana in said color identity.&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;em&gt;No longer true as of January 18, 2016 rules update. All players can have any color of mana in their pool, regardless of their commander's identity.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mox Opal would be legal in any Commander deck, because it is colorless and &quot;any color&quot; is not a color identity. However, a mana rock like Obelisk of Esper, while colorless, specifically produces W, U, or B, so it would only be legal in decks whose commander has all three of those colors in it's casting cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's noteworthy that the new Extort cards don't need commanders with both Orzhov colors; most you can consider only white, or only black. This is because the W/B mana symbol for the Extort cost is in the reminder text, not the rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4910" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T14:09:57.893" LastActivityDate="2018-09-27T14:09:57.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11144" CreationDate="2013-02-17T14:08:23.240" Score="8" ViewCount="2789" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tom Martell won Pro Tour Gatecrash with &quot;The Aristocrats&quot;, a white-black-red deck that plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=Cartel+Aristocrat&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cartel Aristocrat&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=Falkenrath+Aristocrat&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Falkenrath Aristocrat&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=Blasphemous+Act&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a historically poor color combination. Is this the first time a deck using precisely those colors has top 8ed a Pro Tour? If not, what is the most recent other example? I've looked back through 2010 without finding any. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: TCGPlayer's deck search claims that Ken Yukohiro's deck from PT Avacyn Restored is of this color combination, but it includes Forests and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=Borderland+Ranger&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Borderland Ranger&lt;/a&gt;s, so I'd say it shouldn't count...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3449" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-08-14T12:26:31.747" LastActivityDate="2021-08-14T12:26:31.747" Title="Is &quot;The Aristocrats&quot; the first WBR deck to top 8 a Pro Tour?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11151" CreationDate="2013-02-17T15:22:52.513" Score="8" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;West&quot; (the opening leader) has to lead before seeing the dummy. Both declarer (South) and partner (East) ought to study the dummy before playing. But often they do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose South wins the trick, and leads back quickly. Can West ask for a timeout to study the dummy? Does it have to be before South makes the lead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can any player ask for a timeout to study the hand at a critical juncture (say, if a squeeze play is on)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason I ask this question is because it appears to be unethical to hesitate at certain points (e.g. representing an honor, when you don't have one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &quot;companion&quot; to one of my other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4251/in-bridge-is-there-a-way-to-shorten-reaction-time-for-real-time-play?rq=1&quot;&gt;In Bridge, Is There A Way To Shorten &amp;quot;Reaction Time&amp;quot; For &amp;quot;Real Time&amp;quot; Play&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T15:28:56.507" Title="Can one ask for a &quot;time out&quot; to study the hand in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|etiquette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11142" CreationDate="2013-02-17T17:49:19.287" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least several decks that &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; qualify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nearly-pure WBR in a heavily-multicolor format&lt;/strong&gt;: Takayuki Koike got to the top 8 at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtgevent/ptval07/welcome&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007 Extended Pro Tour in Valencia&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/samplehand.asp?x=mtgevent/ptval07/top8decklist&amp;amp;decknum=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Domain Zoo deck&lt;/a&gt; where &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; was the only green card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A true WBR deck in a team format&lt;/strong&gt;: Tomoharu Saito played &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/samplehand.asp?x=mtgevent/ptcha06/t8decks&amp;amp;decknum=6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a WBR deck&lt;/a&gt; as part of the winning team at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtgevent/ptcha06/welcome&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006 Pro Tour in Charleston&lt;/a&gt;. It featured the red-green hybrid card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Solifuge&quot;&gt;Giant Solifuge&lt;/a&gt; but no green sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;So, why is WBR rare?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing WBR means forgoing green and blue. What are you (typically) giving up when you do that? Mana ramp and color-fixing (G), countermagic (U), card filtering (U), card draw (both), and usually the biggest mid-sized creatures in the format (G) — basically a lot of the tools that help you cast big things faster or dig in for the long game. This implies that most WBR tournament decks will be on the aggressive side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top-tier aggro decks are all about consistency&lt;/strong&gt;. Mono-red is the most enduring aggro archetype not because red somehow has &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the best and fastest aggro cards, but because this is a deck that just wants to curve out super-consistently in every game. When your whole strategy is to prey on decks that make themselves too slow or greedy or fragile in pursuit of raw power, you can't afford to slip on mana yourself. So &lt;strong&gt;multicolor aggro decks mainly appear when a format supports &lt;em&gt;very consistent&lt;/em&gt; multicolor mana bases&lt;/strong&gt;, above and beyond the level that enable successful multicolor control and combo decks, or in aggro-heavy environments where you're looking for some kind of special advantage in the mirror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some environments, such multicolor aggro decks are viable. However, WBR is a &amp;quot;wedge&amp;quot; color combo. Most seasons of Standard, Extended, and Block Constructed featured better support for &amp;quot;shards&amp;quot; (allied-color groupings, like WUB). Why play WBR when you can play Jund (black, green, red — black and green together give you removal as flexible as white's) with better mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In environments with even better mana, decks are more likely to just end up in all colors. Look at Koike's Zoo list above, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/sideboard/article.asp?x=results/ptworlds97_decks&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jakub Slemr's five-color black weenie list from the 1997 World Championship&lt;/a&gt;. When it's so easy to splash for a powerful card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Man-o%27-War&quot;&gt;Man-o&amp;#39;-War&lt;/a&gt; (1997 was a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; different time), why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Martell's PT-Gatecrash list or Saito's 2006 list benefit greatly from mana bases that support all color combinations equally (since both Ravnica shocklands and the Innisrad/M13 &amp;quot;buddy land&amp;quot; megacycle equally cover ally and enemy color pairings). But they could just as easily have been very consistent two-color decks. After all, all three colors generally have a lot of overlap when it comes to aggro cards (cheap aggressive beaters and efficient removal of various kinds). So, why build three colors, especially WBR? I believe &lt;strong&gt;powerful multicolor cards like the eponymous Aristocrats or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Helix&quot;&gt;Lightning Helix&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hit&quot;&gt;Hit&lt;/a&gt; are the main reason these decks ended up as three-color WBR&lt;/strong&gt;. (How good is Hit? Apparently good enough to justify losing 8 life to a Dark Confidant flip when your deck can't even cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Run&quot;&gt;Run&lt;/a&gt;!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T13:49:33.890" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T13:49:33.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11177" CreationDate="2013-02-17T18:50:28.130" Score="4" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0971663610&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Points, Schmoints&lt;/a&gt;,&quot; Marty Bergen related an instance in which he announced &quot;skip bid,&quot; before &quot;jumping&quot; his partner's two diamond bid to the five level (instead of three). According to him, his Left Hand Opponent had to wait ten seconds before reacting (in order not to give away information by the speed or slowness of his reaction to the unusual bid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there many instances where tournament rules mandate that players take such a &quot;time out&quot; in either bidding or play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &quot;companion&quot; to my other question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11143/can-one-ask-for-a-time-out-to-study-the-hand-in-bridge&quot;&gt;Can one ask for a &amp;quot;time out&amp;quot; to study the hand in bridge?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T17:18:13.930" Title="Are there many mandated &quot;time outs&quot; in tournament bridge?" Tags="|bridge|etiquette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2013-02-17T23:36:39.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the answers to another of your questions said, it is unethical to hesitate over a play when you actually have no choice, since there can be no good reason for your hesitation.  The same principle applies in the situations you mention here; if, when it is your turn to play, you have a choice of cards and your decision will affect the hand, you can take as long as you need to make the choice**, with or without agreement. You are, of course, giving away the information that you have a choice to make; this may or may not be important. And if you actually have no choice, it is still unethical to imply that you have, merely because you want to study the hand; you will have to play your singleton (or whatever) and do the thinking when it actually makes a difference (such as when you have the lead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asking your opponents to delay play while you study dummy would actually be counterproductive; as soon as the next card is played you have more information, so your conclusions are out of date. Do your thinking when it is necessary, not before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** As mentioned in yet another question, the time you take is in practice limited by the patience of the other players or the Tournament Director, and in some cases by session time limits. But the rules themselves make no mention of how long you can take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-02-17T23:36:39.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11152" CreationDate="2013-02-18T17:51:44.893" Score="13" ViewCount="40468" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does finding a cure affect future infections in Pandemic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1) Cure IS found, disease cubes for that same color DO exist on the board, and player draws an infection card matching that color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2) Cure IS found, disease cubes for that same color do NOT exist on the board, and player draws an infection card matching that color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current understanding is that scenario 2 would be the only time that the disease cubes would not be added to the location (excluding special player roles like quarantine specialist and event cards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T18:22:19.083" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T08:29:20.867" Title="How exactly do cures affect future infection in Pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11150" CreationDate="2013-02-18T17:58:18.427" Score="6" ViewCount="12158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't see a clear explanation for this in the rule book so I wanted to double-check.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player draws an epidemic card during their turn do they still need to draw from the infection pile as normal? Or is that skipped since the epidemic card already added diseases somewhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-18T23:30:30.463" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T23:30:30.463" Title="Are normal infection cards still drawn after a player draws an epidemic card?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11149" CreationDate="2013-02-18T18:12:26.583" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still perform the normal draws from the infection deck, after increasing the infection rate, infecting a new city with 3 cubes, and increasing the intensity of the infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card is an Epidemic card, instead of taking the card in hand, refer to the rules for Epidemics, below. &lt;strong&gt;After drawing the required cards, take on the role of the Infector.&lt;/strong&gt; See Playing the Infector on page 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing the Infector&lt;/strong&gt; - Draw cards from the Infection Draw Pile equal to the current Infection Rate and add one cube to the pictured cities, using a cube of the same color as each card. (Page 7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T18:12:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2013-02-18T20:00:43.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Victor Mollo addressed this problem in one of his books (I forget which). His suggestion, if you wished to stop and think at your turn of play, was to place the card you plan to play face down on the table, announcing that you were playing that card, and then do your thinking. Provided your thinks don't take inordinately long, no-one will complain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="624" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T20:00:43.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11148" CreationDate="2013-02-18T20:15:22.123" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1: continue adding cubes, as you have been doing all the way along. The example of &quot;Playing the Infector&quot; specifically states: &quot;&lt;em&gt;Even though the Black disease is Cured, it can still spread!&lt;/em&gt;&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2: nothing happens. The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eradicating a Disease&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a cure for a given disease has been discovered and &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the disease cubes of that color have been removed from the board, flip the Cure Marker for the disease to the &quot;Sunset&quot; side. From now on, &lt;strong&gt;cards of this color have no effect when drawn on the Infector's turn&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;emphasis mine -- StasK&lt;/em&gt;). Take all of the cubes of the eradicated color and place them back in the box -- they will not be used again for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So finding a cure affects the game via the change in how &quot;Treat Disease&quot; action is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Medic character starts treating the disease without spending an action: if say the red vaccine has been discovered, whenever the Medic is in the city with these red cubes, he or she can take them out without spending an action. This also means that the Dispatcher (or the Airlift special event) can throw the Medic into a red city that is about to outbreak, and the city will be cured with no other actions spent by any of the players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All other players can remove &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the cubes in one action (rather than just one cube) when they treat disease in a city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the longer term, discovering the cure makes you one step closer to the victory -- you need to discover all four cures to win the game. The Infection step, however, is not affected by the discovery per se -- only by eradication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2013-02-18T20:15:22.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11158" CreationDate="2013-02-19T15:20:44.230" Score="7" ViewCount="117238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not much of a Magic player myself, although I do know a bit about the game. Recently, I got into an argument about whether one creature can block multiple creatures' attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like rule 509.1a specifies that each blocking creature blocks one attacking creature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1a The defending player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will block. The chosen creatures must be untapped.&#xA;  For each of the chosen creatures, the defending player chooses one&#xA;  creature for it to block that's attacking him, her, or a planeswalker&#xA;  he or she controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the point of the argument was, can &quot;one&quot; creature be chosen multiple times? Because it seemed like multiple blocking creatures could block one attack, but not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T13:58:22.063" Title="Can one creature block multiple attacks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2013-02-19T15:33:44.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No sir, one creature can only block one creature, in any ordinary circumstances.  (You can of course block one attacker with multiple different creatures: as long as each blocker is only blocking one attacker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5Bblock%5D%20%5Bany%5D%20%5Bnumber%5D%20%5Bof%5D%20%5Bcreatures%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; for examples of creatures and other cards that &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; break the one-creature-blocked-per-blocker rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T15:33:44.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2013-02-19T15:36:18.030" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, one creature cannot be chosen to block multiple attackers (unless otherwise specified on the card, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ptc/en/11.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avatar of Hope&lt;/a&gt;). Each blocking creature may be assigned to one attacking creature. The rule, as you've pointed out, states (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1a The defending player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will block. The&#xA;  chosen creatures must be untapped. For each of the chosen creatures, &lt;strong&gt;the defending player&#xA;  chooses one creature for it to block&lt;/strong&gt; that’s attacking him, her, or a planeswalker he or she&#xA;  controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule starts out by saying that the defender chooses all creatures that will block. Declaring all blockers at the same time is important. The defending player then assigns each blocker to &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; creature to block. Since all blockers are declared at the same time, it cannot be assigned to block one creature multiple times; each blocker is assigned to one attacker when blockers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T21:39:47.450" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T21:39:47.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2013-02-19T15:51:18.890" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, a creature can normally only block at most one attacking creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have already quoted the relevant rule. I will bold the part of the rule that answers your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1a The defending player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will block. The chosen creatures must be untapped. &lt;strong&gt;For each of the chosen creatures&lt;/strong&gt;, the defending player chooses one creature for it to block that’s attacking him, her, or a planeswalker he or she controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chosen creatures referred to are the &lt;em&gt;defenders&lt;/em&gt;. Your mistake in reasoning was that you applied the rule to attackers, not the defenders, basically the other way round. For each defending creature, you pick one attacker which to block. Of course you can chose the same attacker multiple times for multiple defenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T15:51:18.890" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11161" CreationDate="2013-02-19T21:38:44.937" Score="3" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are six types of Corporation cards: identities, operations, agendas, ice, upgrades, and assets... Corporation cards are installed facedown, and are inactive unless rezzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean if I'm playing as the corp I can start with my identity card unrezzed (and therefore inactive and providing no bonus), or must I reveal my identity to the runner immediately? Or is it special and not technically &quot;installed&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user503" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T23:39:05.463" Title="Can I start with my identity card unrezzed?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11160" CreationDate="2013-02-19T21:55:41.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the very start of the Setup section the rules read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Choose Sides: The players decide who will play as the  Runner and who will play as the Corporation. Then, each  player places his&#xA;  identity card faceup in his play area and  takes a corresponding deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initial identities go face up.  It's only subsequently that Corporation cards should be installed facedown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Rezzing&quot; is furthermore defined as &quot;the act of flipping a facedown card faceup&quot;; so if the initial identities are faceup, there can be no question of them starting the game &quot;unrezzed&quot; (if that wasn't already obvious).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2013-02-19T23:39:05.463" LastActivityDate="2013-02-19T23:39:05.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:04:32.793" Score="7" ViewCount="148357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the regular rules for UNO, but over the years, playing with different people, I hear all kinds of different rules. I've hear different rules when a specific card is played, you and/or everybody does something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When someone plays any '5' card, everyone must slap the discard pile.&#xA;The last people to slap must draw 2 cards from the pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also heard different rules over the years but I can't seem to remember them. I don't think they were House Rules, more like &quot;underground&quot; rules that people over time have added and eventually were passed on through different people. I've heard different rules like switching cards in your hand with someone else, and etc. But I don't really know the specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess my real question is, what are some unique rules that are apart the standard UNO Rules? Maybe even rules that &quot;you&quot; personally have made up that have made your time playing UNO enjoyable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any information and/or help will be appreciated. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4810" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T23:29:29.647" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T23:29:29.647" Title="Unique and fun rules for UNO" Tags="|house-rules|uno|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-05-01T09:27:21.193" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:07:00.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group tend to ignore the specified instructions for picking a starting player* and tend to pick based on who's played before. If there are new players and there's no real penalty for going last, &lt;strong&gt;new players going last gives them an opportunity to pick up the game&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if there is a huge advantage to going first and the rules are straightforward enough to understand from the start, we tend to let new players go first to counteract the disadvantage of never having played before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Although a running joke in our group is speculating what absurd condition there might be. Mystery Express? Who last solved a murder on a train?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T08:52:01.977" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T08:52:01.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11166" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:18:45.980" Score="15" ViewCount="8335" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago, I played this card game with a handful of my friends. We used regular poker cards. We started playing the games without being told the rules. The only thing we were told was that it was like UNO in that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You wanted to get rid of all your cards in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it was your turn you can put a card down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put cards down corresponding to their suit and/or number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time we did something wrong we were penalized with a card. The point of the game was to figure out the rules of the game, by seeing how everyone was penalized. At the end of the game, when someone won, that winner got to make up his own rules which would be added to the next game. The rules would not be announced and would have to figured out by everyone who didn't know the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some of the penalties that I remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being an idiot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Asking about the rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Touching your cards in &quot;Court of Order&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here were some of the rules (that I remember):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a Jack was placed, the next card had to be the same suite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a Queen was placed, you had to stand up and say &quot;Hail the Queen&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there were more rules, but I can't remember them. I also can't remember the name of the game. I want to know what the normal default rules that you start out with, but I can't remember them all/I would like to introduce this game to some of my friends who haven't played it. I would Google it and get information online, but I can't remember the name of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does someone know the name of the game and/or some of the rules used in the beginning of the game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4810" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:05:14.527" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:05:14.527" Title="Help me identify this card game with secret, changing rules" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11169" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:24:09.127" Score="3" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2013, Hasbro dropped the Iron piece from Monopoly and added a new Cat. Alongside this announcement, they were going to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.usatoday.com/story/life/2013/01/08/monopoly-board-game-tokens-change/1805387/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;release a &amp;quot;Monopoly Golden Token Bonus&amp;quot; board that would have all the old pieces and the 5 new pieces that were up for voting&lt;/a&gt;, and that this would be released as a Target exclusive in mid-February 2013. As of that date, it doesn't seem to be available in stores or online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What was the official release date for the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4810" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2023-10-28T15:05:39.953" LastActivityDate="2023-10-28T15:05:39.953" Title="Monopoly Golden Token Bonus release date?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:24:18.237" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sounds a lot like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mao_%28card_game%29&quot;&gt;Mao&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (which I was introduced to as Chairmen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a card-shedding game (i.e. like Uno) with secret rules that can vary by playing group. As the game goes on, more rules are added but not directly explained. The game typically goes on until everyone gives up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;EDIT:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some sample starting rules might include these ones that are fairly common when I've played it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ace skips the next player's turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack reverses the play order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 allows anyone to play a card of the same suit immediately. Play continues from that person onwards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spades must be named out loud&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 must be followed by saying &quot;That's the badger&quot; (after saying &quot;7 of spades&quot; if appropriate)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kings and Queens must be saluted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must say &quot;last card&quot; when you have one card remaining&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must say &quot;Mao&quot; when you go out (&quot;Taking the Chairman's name in vain&quot; at any other time faces a hefty three-card penalty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T22:19:53.067" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T22:19:53.067" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:31:50.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have some house rules to make is faster and fun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every time you ask if it's your turn you draw a card&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you play an invalid card, you draw a card&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the rest think you are taking too long, you draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If someone plays a card that you also have in your hand, you can play it as well, but you need to be faster than the next player.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-20T14:55:02.937" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T14:55:02.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7712" CreationDate="2013-02-20T14:58:23.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also bought Ultra Pro sleeves for my deck, in black. I made a fusion deck with the main set, 1st &amp;amp; 2nd edition, plus selected Apples to Apples cards.  Ended up with almost 850 cards in total, so I picked up a cardboard deck box from a game shop for less than two bucks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With shipping, I was able to get them for $0.05/each on Ebay. Well worth the amusement of a durable, well used and (pseudo) hacked set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4921" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T14:58:23.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11165" CreationDate="2013-02-20T15:16:42.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the 'reviews section' on the linked target website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I spoke with customer service at Hasbro on 2-8-13 and was told the&#xA;  release date is March 1st, 2013. It is a Target promotion and will not&#xA;  be available anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.target.com/p/monopoly-golden-token-bonus/-/A-14428620&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.target.com/p/monopoly-golden-token-bonus/-/A-14428620&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the same website says that the release date was: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Release Date: February 5, 2013&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, they are possibly sold out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Ebay search reveals a number of people selling this version of the game along with the special edition tokens, so it furthers the theory that the game was released and is sold out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--edit-- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the target has gotten more in stock. Not sure how long it will last though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T15:43:27.253" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T15:43:27.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8569" CreationDate="2013-02-20T17:38:12.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I would say that you can block the other players, particularly with the single cube on the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the other player building up a stock of things to sell on the market? Trigger the market day early. They will, at the very least, have to spend green cubes and time to sell their goods (and won't have stocked up on so much to sell); if they don't have green cubes (or can't afford the time) then all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I would suggest that a winning strategy does not necessarily need to be monomaniacally focused on a single area; politics can be used to grease the wheels of travel by providing you with the cubes etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4923" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T17:38:12.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11137" CreationDate="2013-02-20T20:40:53.347" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your calculation seems off. You seem to have missed an approximately 5% chance of a 4-0 break which the play for drop will catch, but have that implicitly included in the calculations for the drop-finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you include that, the play for drop indeed comes out to be more, but by very little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possibly simple way to figure this out is to compare the holdings where one wins but the other loses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have AJT9x opposite K87x (in hand) and you decide to play the K first (in both lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the finesse next wins over the drop when RHO has Qxx (assuming both follow to the first trick, otherwise it is the same for both lines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing for the drop wins over the finesse when RHO has Qx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since RHO will have Qxx 3/4ths of 1-3 split = 3/4ths of ~25% = ~19%, while RHO will have Qx 1/2 of ~40%  = ~20%, playing for the drop is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-02-20T20:40:53.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11174" CreationDate="2013-02-21T07:28:51.297" Score="21" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the most frequent barely-civil discussions in my group is what is possible when you use Throne Room (repeat an action card), in conjunction with Mine (trash a treasure to gain a treasure with cost of three greater).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, one of two things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The person trashes two copper to gain two silver - completely valid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The person trashes one copper to gain a gold - under debate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it legal to gain a gold from a copper with a Throne Room-ed Mine?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4902" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-21T17:20:51.893" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T17:20:51.893" Title="Can you use Throne Room to Mine a Copper to a Gold?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11024" CreationDate="2013-02-21T08:01:31.710" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 4-player game is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; unbalanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Greyjoys&lt;/strong&gt; need to play fast and aggressive with building a navy to stay in the game to begin with, in a 4-player game that need is greatly expanded; if they don't get an army down south, they'll never be able to be a real competitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My group is current on hiatus from playing this game as the last game we played I (as my first time as the &lt;strong&gt;Lannisters&lt;/strong&gt;) took over &lt;code&gt;Ironman's Bay&lt;/code&gt;, and stranded the &lt;strong&gt;Greyjoy&lt;/strong&gt; player for the rest of the game, continually raiding his &lt;code&gt;Consolidate Power&lt;/code&gt; so he couldn't bid on the &lt;code&gt;Influence Tracks&lt;/code&gt;, and kept him unable to place a single starred order the entire game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-player has similar &lt;strong&gt;Greyjoy&lt;/strong&gt; issues, but the inclusion of &lt;strong&gt;Tyrell&lt;/strong&gt; (starting in the completely undefended south) usually makes a huge advantage for the lucky 5th player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, I never used to play when I don't have 3 or 6 players, however, one of my friends stumbled upon this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1363079/a-game-of-thrones-the-board-game-second-edition?size=large&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this overlay&lt;/a&gt;, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/826451/board-overlay-for-balanced-games-with-four-or-five&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules that come with it&lt;/a&gt; (no &lt;strong&gt;Martells&lt;/strong&gt;, a strength 5 neutral token on &lt;code&gt;Sunspear&lt;/code&gt;, take out &lt;strong&gt;Greyjoy&lt;/strong&gt; and make &lt;code&gt;Pyke&lt;/code&gt; unclaimable with only 4 players), we were able to have quite a few successful games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then... I found these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/803739/balanced-game-ideas-for-4-or-5-players&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Rumble in the South&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;  puts everybody deep in awesome. From boardgamegeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 Players&lt;/strong&gt;: Rumble in the South&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variant, Stark and Greyjoy are unplayable and their lands are&#xA;impassable. The impassable regions thus include: Bay of Ice, Flint's&#xA;Finger, Ironman's Bay, Seagard, The Mountains of the Moon and The&#xA;Narrow Sea. This variant is excellent at creating a true 4-way battle&#xA;with shifting alliances! However I tend to make the win condition only&#xA;6 castles instead of 7 to speed up the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a full 6-player game, this is my favorite way to play. Boardgamegeek also has 3 other game variants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 Players&lt;/strong&gt;: Struggle in the North&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variant, Tyrell and Martell are both unplayable and their lands are impassable. The impassable lands start at: Highgarden, The Reach, The Boneway, Storms End and includes all lands south of there. Interestingly, this variant leaves the oceans around the southern end of the continent open, and I recommend The Arbor remain in the game as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 Players&lt;/strong&gt;: Race to King's Landing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variant, Baratheon is unplayable and Dragonstone is impassable. But all other areas on the board are fair game. I like this variant since everyone else, except Greyjoy really, has a shot at taking King's Landing first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 Players&lt;/strong&gt;: King in the North&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite its name, this variant has Stark as the unplayable house, with their lands and the Arryn's lands impassable. This includes: Bay of Ice, Moat Calin, The Twins, The Mountains of the Moon and The Narrow Sea. I don't like this variant as much since Greyjoy goes at Lannister, and Tyrell tends to go at Martell, leading to a relatively easy Baratheon victory unless Tyrell and Martell team up on Baratheon. But it's still better than the neutral armies in the rules!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the 5-player games are nearly that interesting, so what we do with 5-player games is simply add +1 to all &lt;strong&gt;Martell&lt;/strong&gt; neutral tokens; it seems to be enough to slow the onslaught of destruction set on by the Tyrells. At least enough for the Lannisters to join into the fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variant 4/5-player board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfadm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cfadmm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;variant map&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4902" LastEditorUserId="4902" LastEditDate="2021-04-08T16:52:40.033" LastActivityDate="2021-04-08T16:52:40.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11172" CreationDate="2013-02-21T08:54:15.160" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can trash Copper -&gt; Silver -&gt; Gold, since Mine requires you trash cards from your hand, and then gain them &lt;em&gt;back into your hand&lt;/em&gt;, setting you up for another play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper -&gt; Platinum with a King's Courted Mine is also possible (and incredibly devious!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, Mine reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trash a Treasure card from your hand. Gain a Treasure card costing up to 3 Coins more; put it into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Throne Room reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose an Action card in your hand. Play it twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the order is (with a hand like Throne Room, Mine, Copper, X, X):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Throne Room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose Mine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash Copper from hand; Gain Silver into your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Mine again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash Silver from hand; Gain Gold into hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T08:54:15.160" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11176" CreationDate="2013-02-21T11:32:14.753" Score="17" ViewCount="84368" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the card game Munchkin, what happens when you die? I know you go back to level 1, and you lose all the cards in your hand and your items, but do you lose your class and race too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And how does it work with the rest of the players taking your cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4902" LastActivityDate="2018-02-21T01:28:50.073" Title="What happens when you die in Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11175" CreationDate="2013-02-21T12:48:31.080" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not lose Class, Race, &lt;strong&gt;Level&lt;/strong&gt;, or Curses when you die. The other characters get to loot your body when you die, each getting one card from your revealed hand or the cards you had in play, starting with the highest level character. The remaining cards (non-Class/Race/Curse) are discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules have a section&lt;/a&gt; labeled Death that clearly explains the consequences (page 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Death&lt;/strong&gt; - If you die, you lose all your stuff. You keep your Class(es), Race(s), &lt;strong&gt;and Level&lt;/strong&gt; (and any Curses that were affecting you when you died) – your new character will look just like your old one. If you have Half-Breed or Super Munchkin, keep those as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Looting The Body:&lt;/strong&gt; Lay out your hand beside the cards you had in play. Starting with the one with the highest Level, each other player chooses one card . . . in case of ties in level, roll a die. If your corpse runs out of cards, tough. After everyone gets one card, the rest are discarded.&#xA;Dead characters cannot receive cards for any reason, not even Charity, and cannot level up. Your new character appears when the next player begins his turn, and can help others in combat . . . but you have no cards. On your next turn, start by drawing four cards from each deck, face-down, and playing any legal Race, Class, or Item cards you want to, just as when you started the game. Then take your turn normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ reiterates&lt;/a&gt; much of the same information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. Exactly when do you die, and how long do you stay dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. You die when you get Bad Stuff that says you're dead. (A very few other cards can cause Death as well.) If you were fleeing from other monsters, you are excused from their Bad Stuff, because you're dead. While you are dead, you cannot receive cards for any reason, and you cannot level up. You STAY dead only until the next person's turn starts. Your new character appears at that point and may join normally in the combat, though you will get no new cards until someone gives you charity, you get cards as payment for helping in a combat, or your next turn starts. Fortunately, death is temporary . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. What happens when you die? Do Curses that persist go away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. There are a number of Curses that persist, like Tiny Hands, Big Feet, Sex Change, Chicken On Your Head, and so on. Most of these Curses can only be gotten rid of with a Wishing Ring or perhaps some luck. If a Curse persists, its effects transcend death. Remember, your new character looks like the last one. So, if your sex was changed, you are still your new sex (but you very likely died because of combat, so that pesky -5 is gone), you still have Big Feet or Tiny Hands, and if you didn't have Headgear on when you died, that stinking Chicken is going to roost on the head of your new character. Sucks to be cursed, but, well, you knew that . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T12:56:00.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11145" CreationDate="2013-02-21T17:51:54.280" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played in many tournaments in the US and haven't come across any mandated &quot;timeouts&quot; during the play, apart from the STOP card which is (inconsistently) used when making a skip bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect it will be something similar in Europe and other areas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T17:51:54.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3245" CreationDate="2013-02-21T18:40:35.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not just use the High Noon Expansion which limits the game to around 13 to 15 ish rounds and has the ghost town card so players come back for a single round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4913" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T18:40:35.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11179" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11180" CreationDate="2013-02-21T22:36:20.233" Score="7" ViewCount="30956" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A attacks with a 6/6 creature.&#xA;Player B assigns TWO blockers to block the 6/6 creature, each is 3/3 with first strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B's first strike blockers deal their damage first, destroying A's larger creature before it deals any damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each blocker must take its turn blocking. So the first 3/3 blocker does first strike damage, then dies. Then the second blocker does first strike damage, and lives. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4932" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T04:55:54.757" Title="Multiple blockers with first strike" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2013-02-21T22:45:46.500" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x31;. The 6/6 will die, and the 3/3s won't take any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first strike Combat Damage Step, both 3/3 deal three damage to the attacker. It is destroyed shortly after for having marked damage matching its toughness. The 6/6 won't be around in the normal damage Combat Damage Step to deal damage to the 3/3s, so they'll survive intact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the attacker was a 7/7, it would survive the first strike Combat Damage Step and a second Combat Damage Step would get created for the remaining creatures (the 7/7) to deal their damage (destroying the blockers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T21:00:45.530" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T21:00:45.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11179" CreationDate="2013-02-21T23:12:34.247" Score="-9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previous answer in-correct&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the 6/6 attacks you declare two 3/3 first strike blockers on the one 6/6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 6/6's controller chooses blocking order (which one will block first and which will block second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would play out like this (6/6 attacks blocked by 1st 3/3 first strike, 6/6 is a 6/3 untill the end of turn first 3/3 is destroyed, then 6/6 attacks the 2nd 3/3 first strike and is destroyed by the 3/3 before it attacks it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short the 6/6 will die and you will lose one of your two 3/3's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope this helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4933" LastActivityDate="2013-02-21T23:12:34.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="552" CreationDate="2013-02-22T02:59:52.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got some really nice doubloon coins from &lt;a href=&quot;http://momcorp.com/moms-famous-antique-doubloons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Momcorp&lt;/a&gt;.  They're a lot more enjoyable than the paper coins, and a pretty good deal for $29 -- you get 50 coins (40 small silver coins &amp;amp; 10 large gold coins). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://momcorp.com/moms-famous-antique-doubloons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://momcorp.com/moms-famous-antique-doubloons/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4934" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T02:59:52.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11184" CreationDate="2013-02-22T04:59:42.220" Score="7" ViewCount="7683" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgarena.appspot.com/&quot;&gt;mtgarena&lt;/a&gt; for my tournament organization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do OMP, GWP and OGP mean? Does anyone know what they stand for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Player  Points  OMP     GWP      OGP&#xA;1           9   33.33   100      31.11&#xA;2           6   66.67   60       69.44&#xA;3           6   44.44   75       42.22&#xA;4           6   22.22   66.67    22.22&#xA;5           3   72.22   20       80.56&#xA;6           3   50      20       53.33&#xA;7           3   33.33   0        36.11&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T05:26:36.143" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T05:26:36.143" Title="What is the meaning of OMP, GWP, OGP?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11183" CreationDate="2013-02-22T05:19:03.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are percentages, used by the DCI as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/downloads/tiebreakers.pdf&quot;&gt;tie-breakers&lt;/a&gt;. From Section C4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/downloads/TOHndBk_Feb_5_07.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Organizer's Handbook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OMP - &lt;strong&gt;Opponents’ Match-Win Percentage.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;A player’s match-win percentage is that player’s accumulated match points divided by X&#xA;times the number of rounds in which he or she competed, or 0.33, whichever is greater.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GWP - &lt;strong&gt;Game-Win Percentage.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Similar to the match-win percentage, a player’s game-win percentage is the total number of&#xA;game points he or she earned divided by X times the number of games played.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OGP - &lt;strong&gt;Opponents’ Game-Win Percentage.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Similar to opponents’ match-win percentage, a player’s opponents’ game-win percentage is&#xA;simply the average game-win percentage of all of that player’s opponents. And, as with opponents’ match-win percentage, each opponent has a minimum game-win percentage of&#xA;0.33.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T05:25:43.507" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T05:25:43.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11194" CreationDate="2013-02-22T08:04:46.600" Score="6" ViewCount="1561" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cawat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;5th Edition Flying Carpet&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/92fvL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;6th Edition Flying Carpet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently there was a period in Magic's history when cards received significant &quot;errata&quot; between printings &amp;mdash; not just templating updates or clarifications, but straight-up changes to what the cards do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most recent example I can think of is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLoxodon%20Warhammer%5d&quot;&gt;Loxodon Warhammer&lt;/a&gt;, which officially has lifelink even though the original printing had the triggered-ability version (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpirit%20Link%5d&quot;&gt;Spirit Link&lt;/a&gt;), due to some messiness with the redefinition of lifelink while the card was reprinted. Most of the others are significantly older.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without looking up every single card a player plays in Gatherer, is there a quick way to figure out which cards are &lt;strong&gt;likely&lt;/strong&gt; to have Oracle text that wildly diverges from what's printed on them? (For example, are there certain old-timey abilities that got errata-ed away en masse?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T13:57:00.917" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T23:47:07.750" Title="How can I tell if a card is likely to have &quot;functional errata&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11185" CreationDate="2013-02-22T13:58:44.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, I don't see how that would be possible by looking only at the card.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example you cited is an example of the main reason reason why - the old version of Flying Carpet has been perfectly functional and would be today with updated wording. OTOH there are the occasionally uber-complex cards of yore made compatible with today's rules and wording but with the same functionality, so a card's complexity or lack thereof is no indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a list of obsolete terms and common text blocks that have been replaced by new key words, i.e. for functionally equivalent replacements, you could start with the CompRules glossary. Repeatedly used but now obsolete terms and keywords have been preserved and marked with (Obsolete). Many new, currently valid keywords that have been introduced over the years are actually just shorter replacements for commonly used abilities like e.g. Reach, Shroud, Hexproof, but are not so easy to identify without experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T15:39:20.210" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T15:39:20.210" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11193" CreationDate="2013-02-22T15:04:04.963" Score="8" ViewCount="2835" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing card games like President at school, the dealer often declared &quot;Dealer's Respect&quot;, which required that no player pick up their cards before the dealer had finished dealing, because the dealer could not do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this actually a rule, custom, or convention in any games?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T17:43:34.393" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T09:01:06.870" Title="Are there any card games that enforce &quot;Dealer's Respect&quot;?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2013-02-22T15:08:11.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If someone plays a +2, you can throw a +2 on that and it becomes a +4 to the next one. He again can add another +2...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Right after drawing a card but before adding it to your hand, if you can play the card you just drew, you are allowed to. This goes for punishments (+2 or +4 or other house rules that force a draw) too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Forgetting to say 'UNO' adds 7 cards to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="387" LastEditorUserId="4810" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T16:56:23.360" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T16:56:23.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2013-02-22T16:01:14.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This combines a little bit of @gbianchi's and @Konerak's: we've always played that if you can exactly match the card on top of the pile (both color and value), you can play out of turn, and play continues as if it had been your turn. If you have two identical cards in your hand, you can play them both at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When penalty cards are played this way, they can stack. For example, if someone plays a yellow Draw 2, and you hold one as well, you can choose between playing it immediately to make the person after you pick up 4, or waiting for the naturally next player to pick up 2, then playing out of turn to make the person after you pick up 2. Draw 4 Wild cards can also stack, which often leads to one unlucky person drawing 12 or 16 because people hoard them. Two Skips skip two people, two Reverses have no net effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one exception to playing out of turn is that you can't play a card out of turn if you just picked it up as a penalty (Draw 2, Draw 4 Wild), you have to wait for another player to play at least one card before you can use those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rules speed the game up significantly because people want to play fast to prevent their turns from being stolen, and want to play even faster if they can steal someone's turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T16:01:14.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-22T16:39:56.513" Score="4" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the game, and one of the first things I noticed was the cardboard money. Not a fan, even though in this game it's really just another resource, and doesn't change hands often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a source for good replacements? I'm looking for metal Cash-style coins in two sizes, and preferably different colors. A quick search for &quot;Chinese Luck Coins&quot; brings up good results for one size, but I can't find a good second size (larger &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; smaller, or in a significantly different metal color) to replicate the &quot;1&quot; and &quot;5&quot; coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-23T20:39:40.027" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T21:55:35.877" Title="Replacement coins for At The Gates of Loyang" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|at-the-gates-of-loyang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2013-02-22T16:44:17.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mao_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mao&lt;/a&gt; (also known as &quot;Chairman&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mao has gameplay similar to Uno but the rules are secret, only communicated through penalties. Typically, new rules are added over the course of play. Of course, the in-game secrecy doesn't stop fans from discussing their house rules online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a good source of inspiration because Mao house rules include both purely functional rules (like Konerak's pass-the-draw-card example) and action triggers (like your slap-the-5 example), with all sorts of levels of complexity and silliness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the more-or-less standard rules, for instance, is that players must announce the name of any spade card they play; another is that you must thank people for forcing you to draw cards (under penalty of having to more draw cards, in both cases). You can easily adapt rules like these to Uno to make it a more raucous game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T16:44:17.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11187" CreationDate="2013-02-22T16:51:36.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not touching your cards until the dealer has finished dealing is generally considered good etiquette, or &quot;good table manners&quot;. I.e. picking your cards up before the dealer has finished is considered &lt;em&gt;rude&lt;/em&gt;, rather than &lt;em&gt;cheating&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Etiquette depends on social norms, so it can vary between different countries, different age groups, different social groups, etc. For example, there are probably words you use in front of your friends that you don't say to your parents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you need to follow a particular social rule depends on who you are playing with, the easiest thing is to wait and see what everyone else does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="3543" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T09:01:06.870" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T09:01:06.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11187" CreationDate="2013-02-22T16:57:34.717" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a common convention wherever cards are involved; the game doesn't have to be a traditional card game played with a poker or bridge deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the convention evolved from the trick-taking family, especially Bridge, and the manners and social conventions thereof. Poker, and &lt;em&gt;its&lt;/em&gt; emphasis on ensuring a clean deal, is another good possibility for the origins of the convention. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, it's just a good idea; here are a couple of reasons why, off the top of my head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If nobody touches the cards, then any discrepancy in the number or order dealt is on the dealer, making &quot;misdeals&quot; a little easier to spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Picking up an incomplete hand can be very distracting to the dealer who is attempting to count the cards dealt, which can cause a misdeal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dealer, when dealing across a larger table, often uses the pile of cards already dealt as a target and backstop for the ones he's now skimming across the table. Picking up that pile makes the target go away and can cause the dealer to miss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards you're picking up, if the dealer isn't very accurate, may not be your own, and if that happens you've just forced a misdeal, when otherwise the errant card can simply be pushed over to the correct player's pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've commonly heard the superstition that it's bad luck to pick up an incomplete hand. Theoretically that's hogwash, but it actually has some merit; those of us with terrible poker faces give others at the table information not only about the hand, but about each individual card picked up as it's dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't think of or find any set-in-stone rule (outside of a casino) that requires it to the point of prescribing a penalty for the specific action of picking up or looking at an incomplete hand. It is simply good manners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2013-02-22T19:06:29.263" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T19:06:29.263" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11185" CreationDate="2013-02-22T23:47:07.750" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't many cards in magic that have actual so-called &quot;power level&quot; errata that fundamentally changes what they do, with the exception of the ones that were reprinted in physical form with new wording.  However, there are a few things that make you think &quot;Hey I should check the oracle&quot; because it may not be entirely clear how it was updated to work in modern rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Wording that would generate a really weird replacement effect, may now be a trigger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.,  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4&quot;&gt;Black Vise&lt;/a&gt;   There are obvious patterns to a lot of them, like with this one &quot;if during upkeep&quot; will generally become &quot;at the beginning of upkeep&quot; but then there are ridiculous things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=48&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; that will you never ever &quot;get right&quot; trying to infer current functionality.  So the presence of what would be replacement effects if playing it literally as written is a good cue to check the Oracle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Does it target?  Use of the word target is inconsistent on pre-6th edition cards.  If it just says &quot;opponent&quot; or &quot;player&quot; something you should check if it's &quot;target&quot; or &quot;choose.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Creatures with only a &quot;Class&quot; and Artifact Creatures with no creature type.  e.g., if you see &quot;Summon Warrior&quot; it is likely now an &quot;Elf Warrior&quot; or &quot;Goblin Warrior&quot; or whatever as appropriate.  Artifact Creatures cards with no subtype will also have one in the Oracle (mostly &quot;Construct.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-02-22T23:47:07.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11058" CreationDate="2013-02-23T01:45:35.093" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question, there are a lot of plastics that are suitable for use as card sleeves. None of them use Bisphenol-A as a plasticizer or monomer; that particular chemical is used primarily to make polycarbonates, which while optically clear are generally too stiff for use as flexible sheets or films (though they're great for applications requiring high impact resistance, like eye protection). So, you don't have to worry about Bisphenol A in your card protectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two plastics you're most likely to see as clear films in your card protectors are poly-ethyl terephthalate (PET), and poly-vinyl chloride (PVC).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PET in fibrous form is known commercially as polyester, though in the chemical industry there are a lot of &quot;poly-esters&quot;. This one is formed by bonding ethylene glycol into chains using a phthalate diester to glue them together. As a plastic, it's commonly used in disposable food storage containers, especially soda bottles. It's also commonly used for blister and clamshell product packaging. PET replaced cellulose acetate as a film stock for photos and movies, and also for transparent overlays, so it's definitely got the optical clarity to be used for card protectors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dangers of PET come when it's heated. It's perfectly stable at cold to tepid temperatures, making it just fine for packaging refrigerated foods, but when heated it can release the phthalate compounds into the food. Most of us get plenty of exposure to phthalates, and the vast majority do no real harm, but some combinations of alkyl-phthalates are endocrine disruptors which cause hormonal changes, and can cause birth defects and certain cancers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poly-vinyl chloride is one of the &quot;wonder-plastics&quot; that was used to do everything, until it fell off its pedestal. It still does a lot; it's seen in drainage and irrigation piping, upholstery, clothing, suction cups, self-adhesive window clings, clear flex tubing, clamshell and bubble packaging, and a host of other uses. It's generally prized for its toughness, even when it's plasticized beyond all recognition; a lot of other polymers lose too much of their tensile strength when too much plasticizer enters the picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the bad news. First off, the vinyl chloride monomer (VCM) turns out to be carcinogenic; it's fine as a polymer, but people making the stuff and people who come into prolonged contact with severely degraded PVC products can be at risk. Second, most usages of PVC require it to be more flexible than it is in its raw form, requiring the addition of a plasticizer. This is usually a phthalate, like in PET, but here it's a &quot;mix-in&quot;; the phthalate compound works itself into the polymer structure to &quot;loosen&quot; and &quot;space out&quot; the polymer chains, making them flexible. This means they're more readily released under the right conditions (brand-new vinyl products will even &quot;off-gas&quot; excess plasticizer for a few months after they're made and there's not much you can do about it). Some of the phthalates used in PVC cause even more problems than Bisphenol-A; there is evidence to show that a common plasticizer used in PVC piping, di-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP), causes feminizing characteristics in males, male obesity, and cardiac problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess the moral of the story is, don't put your card protectors in the microwave along with your lunch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few safe alternatives if you can find them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polypropylene is a food-grade plastic used for a variety of applications from food storage containers to durable consumer goods. One form of it, biaxially-oriented polypropylene or BOPP, is made by extruding and then stretching a sheet of the plastic in perpendicular directions, aligning the polymer chains. When this is done, the material becomes crystal clear, and is used in this form for bags holding snack foods, shredded cheeses, candies, salad greens, etc. The material has no plasticisers and so is food-safe, as well as being dishwasher and microwave safe, making it good for food storage containers. BOPP would definitely be clear enough to hold your cards; in fact it's used for sleeves to hold comic books and trading cards. However, heat-bonded seals between layers of the stuff are more delicate than with other plastics (when re-heated it gets harder), and there's a tradeoff between overall durability and clarity; too thick and the plastic starts turning milky.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Polyethylene is the other major food-safe plastic. It comes in two basic types; low-density and high-density, both of which are generally microwave and dishwasher safe. HDPE is used for milk jugs, butter tubs, and a host of thin-walled flexible containers like for chocolate syrup; low-density is used in reusable squeeze bottles, and also in sheet-based products such as Ziploc bags, drop cloths, vapor barrier, etc. Much like polypropylene, polyethylene doesn't need a plasticizer, so it's safe for food prep and storage, and is another common plastic for food storage containers, especially the more disposable kind like Gladware. The downside it that it's never really crystal-clear; it always has that slightly milky, hazy look like looking through a freezer bag.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T17:53:38.107" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T17:53:38.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11198" CreationDate="2013-02-23T16:44:32.120" Score="14" ViewCount="2530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two examples of different scenarios that are confusing to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, if I have a 1/1 creature with first strike and deathtouch, and my opponent blocks it with a 2/2 creature, will my creature die? I can see two alternative ways this could play out and I'm not sure which is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My creature deals his first strike damage, immediately killing the opponent's creature before he is able to deal combat damage as a state-based effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My creature deals his first strike damage, which would normally be lethal due to deathtouch, but state-based effects are not checked, and thus the opposing creature deals his damage and both die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost positive in this case that it's the first option above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gets trickier is, for example, if a creature has first strike and a triggered ability &quot;Whenever this creature deals combat damage to a creature, return that creature to its owner's hand.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not a state-based effect, but rather uses the stack. Similar to above, there are two possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My creature deals his first strike damage, and his triggered ability is placed on the stack. The stack waits to resolve until after all combat damage is dealt, so the opposing creature still kills mine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My creature deals his first strike damage, and his triggered ability is placed on the stack. Both players now gain priority between first strike and combat damage (which I don't think normally happens, thus my confusion). The stack finishes resolving, and the opponent's creature doesn't have a chance to deal damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone clarify this area of the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T07:59:20.547" Title="Do things on the stack or state-based effects resolve between first strike and normal combat damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11196" CreationDate="2013-02-23T17:03:24.437" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.1. The combat phase has five steps, which proceed in order: beginning of combat, declare attackers, declare blockers, combat&#xA;  damage, and end of combat. The declare blockers and combat damage&#xA;  steps are skipped if no creatures are declared as attackers or put&#xA;  onto the battlefield attacking (see rule 508.4). There are two combat&#xA;  damage steps if any attacking or blocking creature has first strike&#xA;  (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature has first strike, there are two combat damage steps instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you just treat these two combat damage steps the same as you would any other step during the combat phase, I don't think you can go far wrong. You resolve everything that's on the stack before finishing the declare attackers step and moving on to declare blockers, right?  From there it shouldn't be hard to see that you should also clear the stack before moving from the first strike combat damage step to the normal combat damage step.  Therefore option number (2), not number (1), holds true in your second example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-23T17:03:24.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11196" CreationDate="2013-02-23T17:06:48.443" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right about #1 in the first case, and #2 is correct in the second place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any creatures have first or double strike, there are two combat damage steps. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Combat_Damage_Step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; about what happens within every combat damage step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To end 510.4, both players must pass priority until everything on the stack resolves. When the stack is empty, play proceeds to the next step, which will be a second Combat Damage Step (if the first was for first strike) or the End of Combat Step (normally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T07:59:20.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-23T22:43:10.680" Score="2" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the board game Go, there are two basic styles, high and low. &quot;High&quot; is all the rage for about ten years, until people have forgotten how to play &quot;low.&quot; Then &quot;low&quot; gets &quot;rediscovered,&quot; and people win tournaments with itfor about ten years until high becomes popular again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bridge, people used to &quot;underbid&quot; in competitive situations. That is, they failed to overcall, make takeout doubles or &quot;balance,&quot; even when it was to their advantage to do so (that is when the penalty for going down was less than the opponent's probably game). Then people learned these techniques and did them a lot. Have they ever overdone such competitive techniques (that is, give away more games or gone down more than they should have)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have people made &quot;mistakes&quot; in the past that would be considered such by today's standards, even though they may have been acceptable bids at the time they were made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-10-11T18:04:26.530" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T10:06:47.703" Title="In bridge, do people go through cycles of under- and -over bidding?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11187" CreationDate="2013-02-24T01:41:46.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some games (like Roborally) where time matters, so if people pick up cards before the dealer is finished, they're gaining an advantage. At that point it's worth making it an actual rule, not just a convention. But it sounds from your question like you're thinking of games with standard playing cards, and I can't think of an example with those. There can still be an impression of fairness, though - it just feels right when everyone gets to look at their hands at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T01:41:46.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10845" CreationDate="2013-02-24T16:50:04.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't work that way, due to the fact that Lightpulsar is being tributed his effect does not go off, and the same for Heliopolis. Lightpulsar must be &quot;destroyed&quot; or &quot;sent&quot; as the final resolution to an effect. When Dark Hole kills them both the last activation is Lightpulsar which is why he can summon D-Metal but in the instance listed above Lightpulsar misses timing in all 3 instances. It's just like why you can't use Lightpulsar to synchro with and get D-Metal back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. Dragunity Phalanx and Lightpulsar on field, synchro for scrap dragon, grab D-Metal, D-Metal grab Pulsar, scrap hit Pulsar and opponent's card, pulsar effect grab another D-Metal, summon Pulsar. 28,28,28,25. Konami issued a miss timing rule with Lightpulsar Dragon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4939" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-24T18:36:16.823" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T18:36:16.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11217" CreationDate="2013-02-24T20:37:16.113" Score="8" ViewCount="5802" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Jund&amp;quot; is the red-black-green shard from Shards of Alara.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, however, it's a term for a midrange archetype in those colors, using a mixture of quick disruption, multi-faceted removal, and powerful creatures, with lots and lots of 2-for-1s, via cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodbraid%20Elf&quot;&gt;Bloodbraid Elf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hymn%20to%20Tourach&quot;&gt;Hymn to Tourach&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thragtusk&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;. This is clearly a powerful strategy since we've seen periods where Jund decks were ascendant in Standard, Extended, Modern, and Legacy — often multiple formats at the same time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic pros have said things like, &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/pat-cox-talks-standard-jund-v-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jund is at best 55% and at worst 45% against everything.&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; Still, having a &amp;quot;55%&amp;quot; matchup against Jund is much better than a &amp;quot;45%&amp;quot; matchup; and when Jund decks are powerful, it's useful to at least have a good sideboard plan against the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the Jund Standard decks at Pro Tour Gatecrash featured these elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand disruption: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%27s%20Return&quot;&gt;Rakdos&amp;#39;s Return&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resilient threats: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thragtusk&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%2C%20Primal%20Hunter&quot;&gt;Garruk, Primal Hunter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Powerful removal: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreadbore&quot;&gt;Dreadbore&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Victim%20of%20Night&quot;&gt;Victim of Night&lt;/a&gt;, burn spells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plentiful sources of card advantage: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thragtusk&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Huntmaster%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Huntmaster of the Fells&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Olivia%20Voldaren&quot;&gt;Olivia Voldaren&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mizzium%20Mortars&quot;&gt;Mizzium Mortars&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%27s%20Return&quot;&gt;Rakdos&amp;#39;s Return&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incidental lifegain on cards that are great even without it: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thragtusk&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Huntermaster%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Huntermaster of the Fells&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aggressive utility lands: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kessig%20Wolf%20Run&quot;&gt;Kessig Wolf Run&lt;/a&gt; (compare to the plentiful use of manlands in other formats)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasional mana acceleration: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Farseek&quot;&gt;Farseek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbor%20Elf&quot;&gt;Arbor Elf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kinds of cards and strategies are particularly strong against Jund?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(&amp;quot;Jund&amp;quot; is a broad category of decks, but it is a very clear archetype. Feel free to focus your analysis on one format, e.g. Standard.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:02:46.190" LastActivityDate="2022-11-08T12:39:15.940" Title="What's actually good against Jund?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11187" CreationDate="2013-02-24T23:32:58.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer differs game by game.  Games also differ in the level of codification of the customary procedure.  It is a rule with mild sanctions in rubber bridge, a basic necessity in duplicate bridge, a convention in other games, a non-problem in yet others.  I will illustrate with two detailed examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Mariáš&lt;/strong&gt;, the arguably most popular family of card games in my country, there are very specific rules about shuffling, cutting, and dealing.  In some modes of the game or after certain circumstances of the previous game, shuffling is prescribed; in others it is prohibited (under a financial penalty), which is very untypical for a card game, and any prohibition on shuffling would be pointless without strict rules on subsequent dealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;32 cards are dealt among three players as follows: one 5 card block to each player, then 2 cards left as a talon, then again one 5 card block to each player.  A bidding conversation ensues between the two players who are not dealers, followed by another such conversation between the higher bidder of the two and the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is common (although not mandatory) for players other than the bidder to start looking at and organizing their first five cards already before receiving the other five cards.  It is not clear whether the dealer, who enters the auction last, has more or less time than the others to evaluate her hand for possible contracts that way; and it saves time for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the opposite example, take &lt;strong&gt;bridge&lt;/strong&gt;.  It is played with 52 cards dealt one by one, which takes longer than in the previous example; furthermore, the dealer enters auction first, so no time could be saved by anyone not waiting for the dealer.  In its competitive variant (duplicate bridge), the same deal will even serve multiple tables (groups of players) and not all those players will necessarily be present when the cards are being dealt. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldbridge.org/laws.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;laws of duplicate bridge&lt;/a&gt; describe the procedure thus: &quot;&lt;em&gt;The cards must be dealt face down, one card at a time, into four hands of &#xA;thirteen cards each; each hand is then placed face down in one of the four &#xA;pockets of the board.  The recommended procedure is that the cards be dealt &#xA;in rotation, clockwise.&lt;/em&gt; &quot;  An even more explicit rule can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/laws/rlaws/lawofcontractbridgecombined_2004.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ACBL laws&lt;/a&gt; that apply to rubber bridge as most people know it.   (&quot;&lt;em&gt;Players should not look at the face of any card until the deal is completed.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3555" LastActivityDate="2013-02-24T23:32:58.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-25T01:27:23.577" Score="3" ViewCount="4843" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing cribbage and you're at a score of 120, can you then win the game by playing the last card and getting 1 point for the &quot;go&quot;? I've seen people play where you're not allowed to win via the &quot;go&quot;, but my personal feeling is that's not correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4941" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T03:43:25.420" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T16:14:18.403" Title="Is it allowed to win a game of cribbage with the single point from a &quot;go&quot;?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-02-28T00:33:19.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11208" CreationDate="2013-02-25T15:13:07.570" Score="7" ViewCount="1123" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Android: Netrunner&lt;/em&gt;, Djinn is a program that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Djinn can host up to 3 [Memory Units] of non-icebreaker programs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The memory costs of hosted programs do not count against your memory limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parasite is a (non-icebreaker) program that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Install Parasite only on a rezzed piece of ice.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Host ice has -1 strength for each virus counter on Parasite and is trashed if its strength is 0 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to play and install a Parasite such that it is hosted on an opponent's ICE (for it's main benefit of reducing that ICE's strength) AND hosted on Djinn (to reduce MU costs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this legal? Can one card be &quot;hosted&quot; on two other cards at once?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T16:18:54.997" Title="Can a Djinn host a Parasite?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11205" CreationDate="2013-02-25T16:14:18.403" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, I've heard much the same.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Turns out, it is merely a &quot;common&quot; house-rule.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's no mention of any such limitation in any of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; I've been able to find, but some people definitely play that way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that in Crib (even more so than in many other games) it's important to know what the house rules are before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T16:14:18.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11206" CreationDate="2013-02-25T16:18:54.997" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a card can't be hosted on two different cards at the same time. From the Netrunner FAQ on Fantasy Flight's website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the Runner install Parasite on a piece of ice but host it on &#xA;  Djinn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No. A card or counter can only be hosted in one place at a time. &#xA;  Parasite has the restriction that it must be installed on a piece of &#xA;  ice, and therefore it cannot also be hosted by Djinn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T16:18:54.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10836" CreationDate="2013-02-25T19:45:16.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finally! This answer is now complete! I know all the measurements now! And they all fit, I made sure. You can find the measurements in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://gist.github.com/Greduan/3763b7d9d5c1d6a4916f&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;private Gist&lt;/a&gt; (meaning you can only access it if you have the link).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a full copy of the Gist, no changes made to it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;This is a related question in boardgames.stackexchange.com:&#xA;http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/10836/4779&#xA;&#xA;===============================================================================&#xA;The measurements for the board:&#xA;&#xA;Length . 33.66cm&#xA;Width .. 33.33cm&#xA;Height . 30.3mm&#xA;&#xA;Measurements for the squares in the board:&#xA;&#xA;Length . 36mm&#xA;Width .. 33mm&#xA;&#xA;===============================================================================&#xA;The amount of pieces that I will manufacture:&#xA;&#xA;King ........... 2&#xA;Rook ........... 2&#xA;Bishop ......... 2&#xA;Gold General ... 4&#xA;Silver General . 4&#xA;Knight ......... 4&#xA;Lance .......... 4&#xA;Pawn ........... 19&#xA;&#xA;===============================================================================&#xA;The exact measurements for each piece.&#xA;Measurements provided in this order:&#xA;&#xA;Height, width (bottom), thickness, angle (general, bottom &amp;gt; top),&#xA;angle (thickness, bottom &amp;gt; top).&#xA;&#xA;King ......................... 32mm 28.7mm 9.7mm  81° 85°&#xA;Rook, Bishop ................. 31mm 27.7mm 9.3mm  81° 85°&#xA;Gold General, Silver General . 30mm 26.7mm 8.8mm  81° 85°&#xA;Knight ....................... 29mm 25.5mm 8.3mm  81° 85°&#xA;Lance ........................ 28mm 23.5mm 8.0mm  81° 85°&#xA;Pawn ......................... 27mm 22.5mm 7.75mm 81° 85°&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be sure to understand this is not perfect yet. It's not 100% ready yet. Probably... You can use these numbers and get a working set. But I'm still refining them to perfection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastEditorUserId="4779" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T22:22:39.360" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T22:22:39.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11211" CreationDate="2013-02-25T20:20:32.520" Score="6" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a quick question to be sure we are playing the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is getting a Great Hall by playing Ironworks let you draw a card and play another action since the Great Hall is both an action card and a victory card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ironworks&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Action &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost 4 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain a card costing up to 4 Coins. If it is an Action&#xA;card, +1 Action; Treasure card, +1; Victory card, +1 Card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Great Hall&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Action - Victory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 Card, +1 Action, 1 VP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T20:40:53.813" Title="Ironworks and Great Hall combo" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11210" CreationDate="2013-02-25T20:33:33.180" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's how they work. If the text on the cards isn't enough for you, it also explicitly says it in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You get a bonus depending on what type of card you gained. A card with 2 types&#xA;  gives you both bonuses; if you use Ironworks to gain a Great Hall, you will then draw a card (because Great Hall is a Victory card) and may play another Action (because Great Hall is an Action card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really another case of &quot;do exactly what it says on the cards&quot; - it says on Ironworks that if it's an Action you get +1 Action, so you do, and it says on Ironworks that if it's a Victory card, you get +1 Card, so you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T20:40:53.813" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T20:40:53.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11213" CreationDate="2013-02-25T21:03:38.683" Score="9" ViewCount="6130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading somewhere a few days ago that when a player creates a token using a spell like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/44.html&quot;&gt;Rapid Hybridization&lt;/a&gt; they own the token, even though they never had control of it. I can't seem to find the discussion or the relevant rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I create a token that comes into play under another players control, do I own the token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T21:10:44.380" Title="Do I own a token that I create under somebody else's control?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11212" CreationDate="2013-02-25T21:09:34.217" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that token is owned by the other player.  From the current Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5a A token is both owned and controlled by the player under whose control it entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens &lt;em&gt;used to be&lt;/em&gt; owned by the controller of the effect that created them, but this was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot;&gt;changed in the Magic 2010 rules revision&lt;/a&gt; to line up better with people's intuitions about ownership of permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T21:10:44.380" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T21:10:44.380" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11215" CreationDate="2013-02-25T22:41:37.710" Score="5" ViewCount="6159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone tried to play the following combo in a game I was in. I think it is an illegal play, so I wanted some help to clarify the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Launch%20Party&quot;&gt;Launch Party&lt;/a&gt; - &amp;quot;As an additional cost to cast Launch Party, sacrifice a creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogg%20Fanatic&quot;&gt;Mogg Fanatic&lt;/a&gt; - &amp;quot;Sacrifice Mogg Fanatic: Mogg Fanatic deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other player played Launch Party and wanted to sacrifice Mogg Fanatic to pay Launch Party's cost. However, they also wanted to benefit from Mogg Fanatic's own ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't seem legitimate, because it would be a &amp;quot;two for one&amp;quot; (pay one cost, get two spells). Am I correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4944" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-25T22:49:31.170" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T09:03:51.027" Title="Can a sacrifice be used to pay for more than one effect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-02-26T16:37:28.747" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2013-02-25T22:43:52.283" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're absolutely correct: you can only sacrifice the Mogg Fanatic to pay the cost for one of those two effects, not both.  From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.10. Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to&#xA;  activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require&#xA;  sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or&#xA;  ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of&#xA;  its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T22:43:52.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11214" CreationDate="2013-02-25T23:08:54.687" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key part is that these sacrifices are costs. Since you realise this, it becomes quite simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't pay for two $1 products with the same dollar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't pay for two costs using the same mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't pay for two costs using the same sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CR 117.10 reminds you that nothing allows you to reuse a payment you previously payed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.10. Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T09:03:51.027" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T09:03:51.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11202" CreationDate="2013-02-25T23:52:54.547" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jund is the prototypical &lt;em&gt;midrange&lt;/em&gt; deck - serving as a control deck in the matchups vs. aggressive decks while playing a more aggressive role itself vs. 'true' control decks.  Unfortunately for the Jund deck, it's difficult to do both of these things at once - generally decks of this kind want to be tuned for a particular environment, and guessing wrong can be a problem for the deck.  What's more, while resilience is its strong suit, there isn't any one thing it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; better than any other deck can do it, and so it's vulnerable to both ends of its range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This points to the core ways of dealing with it (note that I'm primarily focusing on Standard here as it's what I'm most familiar with, but most of the core concepts here should apply to other formats) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go under it.  A deck like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/1163&quot;&gt;Saito&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/1176&quot;&gt;Christiansen&lt;/a&gt; G/R decks or the 'aggro Jund' decks (which are more 3-color decks that happen to be in the appropriate colors than the sort of resilient Jund deck this post talks about) can easily kill before Jund has a good chance to establish itself, and often build enough board presence early that by the time the Jund player hits 5 mana and starts running out Thragtusk the aggro deck is able to kill them around it.  This seems to be the preferred approach at the moment, judging by the results of the Quebec City Standard Grand Prix where &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/gpque13/welcome#1a&quot;&gt;the top 8 was flooded with more aggressive decks&lt;/a&gt;; but much of this may be a result of the Jund decks tuning themselves more against the control and midrange (including mirror) matchups than against the aggro decks (for instance, the rising numbers of Olivia Voldaren in Jund lists); I would expect this plan of attack to have more problems as the Jund decks start adapting with e.g. more Vampire Nighthawks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go over it: this is the typical control approach, of course.  Right now it might be more accurate to call this plan the 'go around it' plan &amp;mdash; the goal is to be a slower, more powerful deck than Jund by playing on axes where Jund has a harder time interacting.  The Nephalia Drownyard/Jace, Memory Adept mill plan is the perfect example of this &amp;mdash; rather than trying to beat Thragtusks or Olivias in a fair fight, the Esper control decks just ignore them outright and go for the library.  Backed with cards like Witchbane Orb to keep the Jund deck from attacking spots where the control decks are actually vulnerable, this strategy can be a trump; typically most Jund decks have no actual defense against a mill plan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another way of &quot;going around it&quot; is via combo &amp;mdash; since Jund has no way (in the main deck, and very few in the board) to actually prevent its opponents from resolving spells, a deck that can win the game from any board position with a single resolved spell is a difficult matchup.  The prototypical example of this in Standard are the combo reanimator decks like Tzu Ching Kuo's from the Quebec City GP; even having its Unburial Rites discarded by Liliana or Rakdos' Return isn't a major problem, since that deck is just as happy to cast it out of the graveyard and win from there.  Birthing Pod decks in Modern work similarly, since just a single resolved Birthing Pod will generally overwhelm the Jund deck with too much card advantage to be effectively dealt with &amp;mdash; any creature becomes a serious threat at that point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-02-25T23:52:54.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11219" CreationDate="2013-02-26T03:34:19.783" Score="6" ViewCount="3721" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does mana added to your pool from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning-Tree%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Burning-Tree Emissary&lt;/a&gt; get destroyed when the card that added it is destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4763" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T03:40:46.493" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T04:03:56.077" Title="How long does mana from Burning-Tree Emissary stay around?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11218" CreationDate="2013-02-26T03:48:16.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mana created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning-Tree%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Burning-Tree Emissary&lt;/a&gt; is no different than then mana created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; cards. Keep in mind the ability of a Forest reads &amp;quot;{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, it remains there until used or until the current step or phase ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500.4. When a step or phase ends, any unused mana left in a player’s mana pool empties. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T04:03:56.077" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T04:03:56.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11221" CreationDate="2013-02-26T15:23:47.187" Score="8" ViewCount="4874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rhys%20the%20Exiled&quot;&gt;Rhys the Exiled&lt;/a&gt;. Are you allowed to play black (and green) cards in your deck with this commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are you only allowed to play cards that are the same color as the commander's &lt;strong&gt;cost&lt;/strong&gt;? If so, would this then make it impossible to use his ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T18:56:18.843" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T18:56:18.843" Title="Is the ability cost of the commander part of the color identity?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11220" CreationDate="2013-02-26T15:42:12.830" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The colour identity of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rhys%20the%20Exiled&quot;&gt;Rhys the Exiled&lt;/a&gt; is Green and Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander colour identity&lt;/a&gt; rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card's colour identity is its colour plus the colour of any mana symbols in the card's rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The colour doesn't have to be &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; in the casting cost (which determines the card's &lt;em&gt;colour&lt;/em&gt;), any mana symbol cost in the rules text counts towards the card's &lt;em&gt;colour identity&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rule&lt;/a&gt; 903.4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.4. The Commander variant uses color identity to determine what cards can be in a deck with a certain commander. The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card's mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).&#xA;Example: Bosh, Iron Golem is a legendary artifact creature with mana cost {8} and the ability &amp;quot;{3}{R}, Sacrifice an artifact: Bosh, Iron Golem deals damage equal to the sacrificed artifact's converted mana cost to target creature or player.&amp;quot; Bosh's color identity is red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T15:51:06.677" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T15:51:06.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11371" CreationDate="2013-02-26T16:44:46.503" Score="6" ViewCount="21394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that casinos never reuse a pack of cards for some anti-cheating reasons I was never quite able to figure out. Then they do various modifications to mark them as &quot;used&quot; cards (e.g. punch a hole through them, burn the corners, or mark them with permanent ink) and sell them for about a buck apiece. They had about the same look and feel as a pack of air-cushioned Bicycle cards, but lasted only about half as long when I played with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's my question - does this lack of reuse factor into the build quality of the cards? Does anybody know how long those cards were built to last? Or does it vary from casino to casino?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastEditorUserId="3543" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T19:44:20.267" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T00:43:02.640" Title="What is the average lifetime of a pack of casino cards?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11224" CreationDate="2013-02-26T19:22:26.307" Score="5" ViewCount="4327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the ruling that when a Planeswalker resolves the player controlling the walker can activate its ability without their opponent getting priority in between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other rules that take on priority that are important?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does priority work for these circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player's sorcery spell resolves. Does the player have the priority to do something else knowing that there is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; ETB effect to consider, or does it go to the opponent who gets to do something after the sorcery resolves?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If an opponent controls a triggered ability that triggers on their opponent's upkeep, and that player also has an upkeep effect, who determines arrangement of the stack if multiple triggered effects happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T01:36:22.667" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T15:54:57.260" Title="How does priority work in these cases?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11223" CreationDate="2013-02-26T19:45:06.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;After any stack-using effect(spell, ability, or otherwise) resolves, or whenever any player would get priority, the &lt;strong&gt;Active Player&lt;/strong&gt;, (the player who's turn it is) gets priority first, and then the &lt;strong&gt;NonActive Player&lt;/strong&gt; gets priority after the active player passes priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player may put any number of spells onto the stack before they pass priority.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple sources controlled by both players would trigger an effect at the same time, they're put on the stack in &lt;strong&gt;APNAP&lt;/strong&gt; order. The &lt;strong&gt;Active player&lt;/strong&gt; puts effects from his sources on the stack first, and he chooses the order for his own effects.  After all of the active player's effects have gone onto the stack, than the &lt;strong&gt;Non-active player&lt;/strong&gt; can put his effects onto the stack, and he can chose the order in which they go onto the stack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in the &lt;strong&gt;Non-active player's&lt;/strong&gt; spells resolving first.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T22:45:34.997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T22:45:34.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-26T20:32:42.690" Score="1" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very interested in Shogi, and I have a board I bought from USA (I'm in México).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So of course I'm interested in Shogi tsume (mating problems), eventually I came to hear about Shogi Zukou by Kanju Itou, and Shogi Musou by Soukan Itou III (the third).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've come across a bit of a problem, I can't really find any one source for all the problems, at least an English one...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is anyone aware of a PDF file (preferable) or some kind of file that has all these problems compiled? Along with their solutions of course. If they could use images or kanji instead of pure text, I would be grateful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4779" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T20:48:14.237" Title="PDF with Shogi Zukou and Shogi Musou" Tags="|shogi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11225" CreationDate="2013-02-26T20:48:14.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A web search for &lt;em&gt;tsume shogi&lt;/em&gt; reveals lots of sites with Shogi mating problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of a specific compilation of Shogi Zukou and Shogi Musou, but if it's a pdf you want I did discover &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/fatboldcyclopsplace/the-goods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this compilation&lt;/a&gt; of 300 problems in pdf form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T20:48:14.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11230" CreationDate="2013-02-26T22:03:44.070" Score="6" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the robber and are playing against the field, you might want to place it where it can do the most damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my understanding is that sometimes the better use is to &quot;sic&quot; the robber on the player who is in the lead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you decide between the two courses of action or others? And what about the times when one or another course of action will do YOU some harm? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-02-26T22:11:56.063" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T20:23:09.877" Title="When should you not place the robber to do the most damage in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11227" CreationDate="2013-02-26T22:17:17.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One obvious choice is when an opponent threatens to take the Longest Road (card), and thereby reach 10 points, with the help of a city on wood/brick with a 6/8. I would block a hex to stop this course of events, even if I had a settlement adjacent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2013-02-26T22:17:17.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11227" CreationDate="2013-02-26T22:50:31.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The placement of the robber should take into account several factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the next player have a Knight card?&lt;/strong&gt; (or Development card, since this isn't open information) If they do, they are likely to use it before rolling for their turn, likely putting it on your settlement/city. You should consider placing it on a hex that blocks the player to your right, because it has the highest probabilty of remaining there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does another player have a higher pobability of having a good you need right now?&lt;/strong&gt; Stealing from them may help you improve you board position this turn, allowing you to build that road, settlement, or city this turn intead of having to hold cards in hand until next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Who is in the lead?&lt;/strong&gt; If a player is closer to winning than any other player, hurting them is usually a good course of action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does placement of the robber make your trade goods more valuable, or a good less available?&lt;/strong&gt; If you become the sole provider for a good, it will trade for more or make it harder for someone to get a good you want to make more scarce.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this hurt the most (more blocked pips) without hurting you?&lt;/strong&gt; You rarely want to block your own settlements/cities. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T20:23:09.877" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T20:23:09.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11227" CreationDate="2013-02-27T01:36:11.347" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The robber is a &lt;strong&gt;political&lt;/strong&gt; action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's early days in the game, you may well want to shrug your shoulders and say &quot;I don't care, I'm just going to put this where it will cause the most damage to the most players who aren't me. Nothing personal.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's later on, you might want to attack a player who's been giving you hassle, and make it clear that that's what you're doing.  Or you might want to avoid doing anything to hurt a player who's behind - they may be grateful to be &quot;given a break&quot;, and return the favour later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, if another player is about to do rather too well, putting the robber on him may be everyone else's last chance not to lose the game.  Or if you're about to grab the last few points necessary to win, then a well-judged resource-steal may be a timely action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in general I don't think you need to micro-analyse your robber plays.  Use the robber to make friends and punish enemies, and maintain some approximation of a status quo (until you're ready to break free of that).  Sometimes it can even be advantageous to place the robber where it will do the &lt;em&gt;least&lt;/em&gt; harm.  Everybody likes a nice person, right?  Where I come from, it's not nice guys who finish last, but overly competitive ones :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T01:36:11.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11223" CreationDate="2013-02-27T01:43:12.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing special about Planeswalkers with respect to getting priority. The active player always gets priority after a spell resolves. Since you normally cast a Planeswalker on your on turn, you get priority when it resolves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the active player will get priority when the Sorcery resolves. That would usually be the player you who cast the Sorcery, but not &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253655&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;always&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is not determined by priority, but by the rules for handling triggered abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities are placed on the stack in APNAP order. The active player's triggered abilities are placed on the stack first, then the non-active player places his triggered abilities on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has more than one triggered ability to place on the stack, he places them on the stack in the order he desires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T15:54:57.260" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T15:54:57.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11223" CreationDate="2013-02-27T04:54:34.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are only a few basic rules you need to know. The most important rule being one of Magic's Golden Rules, &lt;strong&gt;APNAP order rule&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player's left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the &amp;quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&amp;quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other basic rules is covered in &lt;strong&gt;Timing and Priority&lt;/strong&gt;. The Active Player receives priority at the beginning of phases or steps, and after a spell or ability resolves from the stack. Additionally, players do not give up priority until they choose to pass.(i.e. they can chain as many spells/abilities in a row as they wish before relinquishing priority)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don't get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last priority issue is covered under Handling Triggered Abilities. Since triggered abilities can trigger anytime, a rule is needed for how to assign priority and order triggered abilities on the stack. Just before a player would receive priority, any triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are placed on the stack in APNAP order (the AP's triggered abilities will resolve last, since they are on the bottom of the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks forand resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only remaining types (besides the Loyalty Ability you already mentioned) of are Turn-Based.actions, State-Based actions, and Spell Abilities. No player receives priority while handling these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T04:54:34.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-02-27T06:00:34.587" Score="11" ViewCount="5490" Body="&lt;p&gt;if I have a cipher ability encoded on a creature, and I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Restoration%20Angel&quot;&gt;Restoration Angel&lt;/a&gt;, thus exiling and returning the creature to play, does the creature still have the cipher ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about creatures returning from the graveyard (undying ability)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4950" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T06:33:30.857" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T02:00:33.787" Title="What happens when you blink a cipher-ed creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11233" CreationDate="2013-02-27T06:35:42.667" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature leaves the battlefield and returns, whether by blinking or undying or anything else, it returns as a new creature. The creature that the cipher spell was encoded on no longer exists, and the new creature doesn't have a spell encoded on it. This is the same reason you can do things like blinking a creature to save it from being targeted by a spell or to remove it from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With respect to cipher in particular, the comp rules do say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.97c The card with cipher remains encoded on the chosen creature as long as the card with cipher remains exiled and the creature remains on the battlefield. The card remains encoded on that object even if it changes controller or stops being a creature, as long as it remains on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not quite explicit, but it pretty clearly implies that once the creature leaves the battlefield, the cipher relationship is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T06:35:42.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11233" CreationDate="2013-02-27T06:52:59.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature ceases to exist (permanently) as soon as it leaves the battlefield for any reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the exception help cipher. That leaves the card with cipher in exile, encoding a creature that no longer exists, and which will therefore never deal any combat damage again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the card returns to the battlefield, it becomes yet again another object. This is why it comes back untapped, untransformed, with summoning sickness, without any counters it used to have, and of course, without any cards encoded on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rule to remind you of this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.97c The card with cipher remains encoded on the chosen creature as long as the card with cipher remains exiled and the creature remains on the battlefield. The card remains encoded on that object even if it changes controller or stops being a creature, as long as it remains on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T09:45:54.997" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T09:45:54.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11240" CreationDate="2013-02-27T15:42:23.457" Score="0" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are an active player you play an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oracle%20of%20Mul%20Daya&quot;&gt;Oracle of Mul Daya&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crucible%20of%20Worlds&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt;. Could you play your land before they kill &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oracle%20of%20Mul%20Daya&quot;&gt;Oracle of Mul Daya&lt;/a&gt;? Would you be able to play lands off of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crucible%20of%20Worlds&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt; if they would try to destroy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="3567" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T20:05:44.217" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T18:11:34.393" Title="APNAP rulings applied to world effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7949" CreationDate="2013-02-27T15:53:11.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm somewhat late to the party here. But for the highest rate of return, I would look to see what is being played in eternal formats like Modern, Legacy or Vintage. Cards that are played in multiple decks in eternal formats are usually more expensive than other cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; is played in most green or green-splashed decks such as RUG Delver, Junk, Maverick (sometimes), BUG, etc. and is one of the most expensive cards printed recently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T15:53:11.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2013-02-27T15:53:55.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;APNAP doesn't factor in. APNAP is used when multiple players need to make choices simultaneously, and when stacking triggered abilities of multiple players. These questions are strictly about priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the active player, you get priority after a spell resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to play a land then (a special action), you would get priority again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answers to both questions are yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T17:50:27.817" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T17:50:27.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4924" CreationDate="2013-02-27T18:18:43.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Life gain for life gain's sake is generally bad. People don't play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238569&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angel's Mercy&lt;/a&gt; because it doesn't solve the problem of redundant damage sources (i.e. creatures). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, life gain with other affects as other answers have given, are much better because the other affect can stabilize the board for the control player by either dealing with a problem creature (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249386&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lightning Helix&lt;/a&gt;), provide a big blocker (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249414&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Loxodon Hierarch&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249685&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;) or draws a lot of cards (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253534&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sphinx's Revelation&lt;/a&gt;). These cards allow you to affect the board state while putting you out of the range of an aggressive deck's damage potential for the next few turns while you stabilize your position and get back into the game (as the control player). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T18:18:43.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11244" CreationDate="2013-02-27T19:32:39.647" Score="4" ViewCount="473" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you read the Flash Point rules, it says to place a fire marker on each adjacent spot after an explosion.  Does that mean place a fire on the other side of a wall?  For instance, if the fire is in a corner of a room, would you put fire in another room after an explosion?  The instructions don't say the wall becomes damaged, except from a shock wave.  But it seems confusing because if you read that, it seems like fire is placed on the other side of wall or door, without causing any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T20:46:01.097" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T21:35:01.063" Title="Can fire cross walls into another room after an explosion?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2013-02-27T20:14:31.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It works the exact same way as the planeswalker case, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11223/how-does-priority-work-in-these-cases/11224#11224&quot;&gt;Mentioned in your other question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once Oracle resolves, assuming that it's your turn, you have priority, and you have all day to take whatever actions are legal to you, until you pass priority.  This includes playing your second land for turn(which doesn't use the stack anyway), and you'll still have priority after that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you were to play Fastbond, you could play any number of lands, without your opponent receiving priority, assuming that no triggers are being put onto the stack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T20:14:31.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11242" CreationDate="2013-02-27T21:27:31.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Squares are not adjacent if there is a wall or closed door between them.  From Page 2 of the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any reference in the game to Adjacent spaces means those spaces that&#xA;  are up, down, left, or right from a space. Diagonal spaces are not&#xA;  Adjacent. Closed Doors and Walls prevent spaces from being Adjacent –&#xA;  unless the Wall segment is Destroyed. A Wall segment with two Damage&#xA;  Markers is Destroyed. A Wall segment with one damage marker is&#xA;  Damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An open door or a destroyed wall (one with two damage counters) does not prevent adjacency.  So in each direction you will either find an adjacent space without fire (which you will add fire to) or run into a wall/door (doors are destroyed, walls are damaged) or reach outside (add fire but remove it at the end of the turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-02-27T21:35:01.063" LastActivityDate="2013-02-27T21:35:01.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11247" CreationDate="2013-02-28T13:50:26.510" Score="13" ViewCount="5486" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Timber%20Protector&quot;&gt;Timber Protector&lt;/a&gt; which makes all other Treefolk indestructible (I only have Treefolk in play).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;My opponent plays a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgment&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this only destroy the not-indestructible Timber Protector?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Timber Protector get destroyed, all my Treefolk lose their indestructibility,&#xA;and then they get killed at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T15:42:51.943" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T07:35:40.653" Title="Are creatures destroyed if their destruction happens at the same instant they lose &quot;indestructible&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11246" CreationDate="2013-02-28T14:05:40.967" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The destruction only happens once, it's instantaneous, and there's only one creature vulnerable to it when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;610.1. A one-shot effect does something just once and doesn’t have a duration. Examples include dealing damage, destroying a permanent, putting a token onto the battlefield, and moving an object from one zone to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it a state machine. There's only two game states in the scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 1:  Timber Protector and some indestructible Treefolks are on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Action: Destroy all creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State 2:  Timber Protector is in the graveyard. Some Treefolks are on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T16:00:09.370" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T16:00:09.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11249" CreationDate="2013-02-28T14:14:31.663" Score="2" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if I am able to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Killing%20Glare&quot;&gt;Killing Glare&lt;/a&gt; if there are no powerless creatures on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example to Extort after casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T14:23:03.400" Title="Can I cast Killing Glare with X=0 while no creatures with zero power are on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11248" CreationDate="2013-02-28T14:18:00.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you have to pick a legal target (a creature with power 0 or less) when you cast the spell, as instructed by the third step of casting a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2c The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't, any steps of casting the spell already taken are undone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. [...] If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-02-28T14:23:03.400" LastActivityDate="2013-02-28T14:23:03.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11246" CreationDate="2013-02-28T15:20:35.023" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/443/~/magic%3A-the-gathering%3A-indestructible&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taken from this page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. If a permanent is indestructible, rules and effects can’t destroy it. (See rule 701.6, “Destroy.”) Such permanents are not destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the lethal-damage state-based action (see rule 704.5g). Rules or effects may cause an indestructible permanent to be sacrificed, put into a graveyard, or exiled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, as ikegami said above, all treefolk are indestructible when the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day of Judgement&lt;/a&gt; resolves except for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=139690&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timber Protector&lt;/a&gt; and survive, while the Timber Protector is destroyed and goes to the graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if another board wipe occurs before you give them indestructibly or regeneration, then all of your treefolk are destroyed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you were to use a board sweeper such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222206&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt; instead all your creatures would be destroyed because then all creatures would have 13 damage marked on them, the Timber Protector would be destroyed because of damage, then all other treefolk would lose indestructibility and die because of lethal damage (which wouldn't leave the creature until the cleanup step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2019-08-24T07:35:40.653" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T07:35:40.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2013-03-01T00:19:51.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not afraid of picking up another set / game, Munchkin Quest is specifically designed for two players. There's also some overhead with setting up the board and such, but it's a fun alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, my wife and I will play Munchkin as a two player game. It works just fine for us as we're not terribly competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user1059" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T00:19:51.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8590" CreationDate="2013-03-01T02:31:08.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Word for word rules given for the card &lt;em&gt;Sworn Defender&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You apply power/toughness changing effects in a series of sublayers in the following order: (a) effects from characteristic-defining abilities; (b) effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value; (c) effects that modify power and/or toughness but don't set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value; (d) changes from counters; (e) effects that switch a creature's power and toughness. This card's effect is always applied in (b), which means that effects applied in sublayer (c), (d), or (e) will not be overwritten; they will be applied to the new value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that positive counters and Giant Growth will give you more tokens.  (I know that the question was answered, but I wanted to give the verbatim explanation for it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4958" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T02:31:08.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T07:45:11.653" Score="6" ViewCount="19569" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the effects of a Commander that deal (non-combat) damage, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obzedat%2C%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Obzedat, Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt;, count towards Commander damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not been able to find whether or not it has to be, specifically, combat damage, or simply damage dealt by the Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4959" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:39:50.473" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T00:39:50.473" Title="Does non-combat damage affect Commander damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11254" CreationDate="2013-03-01T07:57:26.373" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Per the official rules on mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has been dealt 21 points of &lt;strong&gt;combat damage&lt;/strong&gt; by a particular Commander during the game, that player loses a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Combat damage&amp;quot; refers only to damage dealt in combat as a result of attacking and blocking; direct-damage abilities don't count. Note also that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obzedat%2C%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Obzedat, Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability doesn't &lt;em&gt;deal damage&lt;/em&gt;: it simply causes your opponent to &lt;em&gt;lose life&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T07:57:26.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T10:23:28.363" Score="0" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking into playing Munchkin with only two players. According to the box and the rules the game was made for a minimum of 3 players (probably for good reasons), but I haven't been able yet to understand what specific aspect it is that implies this minimum. What are the limitations of playing with only two players that make the game unplayable with it's current rules set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T10:36:00.400" Title="Playing Munchkin with only 2 players" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-03-01T14:39:26.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2013-03-01T10:36:00.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Surely this is a game that is just generically better for more players, rather than being mechanically unplayable for two people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a game with lots of random factors, it can be easy for a player to gain a quick lead through no real strategic fault of his opponent's.  This &quot;problem&quot; is almost completely mitigated in multi-player settings, where if one player is doing rather two well the others can gang up to keep any power imbalance contained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're both of a basically cooperative mindset, then I can't think of any real reason for not playing Munchkin 2-player.  If you're more competitive, then you might want to play something with a bit less randomness involved, or where the games end quickly enough that if one player gets unbeatably far ahead, you know you'll be shuffling up and redealing quite soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Munchkin is a kind of sort of D&amp;amp;D simulator - how many D&amp;amp;D groups have you heard of with just 2 people?  Part of the fun is getting a whole bunch of your friends over to play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T10:36:00.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11254" CreationDate="2013-03-01T11:06:52.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3j In a Commander game, a player that's been &lt;strong&gt;dealt 21 or more combat damage&lt;/strong&gt; by the same Commander over the course of the game loses the game. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704. Also see rule 903.14)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T11:06:52.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11262" CreationDate="2013-03-01T16:15:40.017" Score="5" ViewCount="7099" Body="&lt;p&gt;In posing this question, I realize that it may be out of scope for boardgames.SE; this question could be subjective and the monetary costs vary quite a bit between cheapest and most expensive decks. Having said that, I think this could have value if it falls within the Q&amp;amp;A format appropriately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been a casual player for awhile, but I've rarely dabbled in tournament formats. I think I spent some time between Mirrodin and Ravnica playing Standard, but beyond that I have had very little exposure. I am realizing that I'd like to start participating in the more competitive tournament side of Magic, but I'm concerned about the cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the sense that it is a much larger initial investment to start in Vintage and Legacy because there is a solid base that most decks use in land and mana artifacts, and the upkeep may be minimal as new cards come out that fit a deck, whereas the initial cost in Modern and Standard is lower, but there are continual costs as new sets come out that consistently change the format. Beyond that, I don't have a great sense of how much these costs are, and the average costs of these would partially determine what style of tournaments I'm likely to be attracted to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What is the average cost of a deck for each of the major tournament types?&lt;/em&gt; These would at least include Vintage, Legacy, Extended, Modern and Standard, plus any others I may be unaware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T18:51:21.020" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T20:11:15.250" Title="How much money would I have to spend to play in tournaments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11259" CreationDate="2013-03-01T16:58:55.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For tournaments lets elaborate the types available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draft: 3 pack boosters, usually 10-15 $ price range, and may last around 3-5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard: sets that are from previous year and including this year. The cost of playing a constant standard environment is usually very expensive as most of the packs rotate. There are cases for like the zendicar and scars block that it made every single deck into a single deck. Sometimes to win may cost more than just playing for fun. The current standard is good played a homebrew and it can still win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern: Sets from 8th edition moving forward. The idea of this deck style is to enable all types of standard decks to be viable in modern to increase diversity. Wizard constantly nerf spells or ban them for being to fast. Cost depends on card choices mono red for example is usually is a 100-200 $. You don't need fetches, all you need is skill, and luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legacy: The 2nd most expensive format ever, as it has 50-100+ lands, spells that have a price range of 20-110+ aka JTMS, and the most diverse decks you will ever see which is the plus side. Mono red hardly works in this format as turn 3 batterskull can cost you a card to pitch which would be 3 damage. Goblins also cost over 200 as the lands to interrupt lands played by opponents is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vintage: Moxes and everythign stated on top. Mostly combo decks that end in turn 1 with either 5 - 6 cards in hand of average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your best investment as a competitive player? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, my recommendation would be draft as high priority, use the draft games to improve your card collection and play the most average win percent on standard(Percentage may mean its chance of winning), and then modern to use your remaining card pool and make something awesome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not invest on any Return to ravnica or gatecrash lands. Next set dragon maze will have a chance for a dual land on every pack. Making lands extremely cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building a deck make sure you don't destroy your deck after side boarding. Seriously this happens a lot, people get intimidated by decks and put so much counter that their decks are no longer viable. Put enough but don't destroy your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T16:58:55.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-01T18:45:43.557" Score="3" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing the game with two friends and there were just two cards left on the second day, when my friend decided to use the &lt;strong&gt;[Escape!]&lt;/strong&gt; card which allowed him to Randomize and discard 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this the day ended, we drew the next 12 cards. Then, my friend collected the first noble in line, saying that his last play (from day 2) was not over because he didn´t collect a noble, which is obligatory according to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4966" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T20:34:39.540" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T22:08:33.450" Title="Can a player collect nobles after a day ends in Guillotine?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-05-30T13:52:37.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11259" CreationDate="2013-03-01T19:36:47.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to compile the information you're looking for that I know of is with tcgPlayer's deck search:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/deck_search.asp&quot;&gt;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/deck_search.asp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose a &quot;Format&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose &quot;Places Finished&quot; : 1st, 2nd, 3rd-4th, 5th-8th&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose &quot;Deck Origination&quot; : Event and Article Decks Only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only took me a minute or two to compile that for the most recent star city games legacy open the top 8 decks had a min price of $1100, max of $2500 and median around $1600.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T19:36:47.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2013-03-01T19:42:22.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The day doesn't end when the line becomes empty.  It ends at the beginning of someone's turn if the line is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your friend plays Escape!, the line is randomized and two nobles discarded, resulting in an empty line.  Your friend tries and fails to collect the first noble in line (there no longer is one).  Then the day ends, a new day begins, and twelve new nobles are added to the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your friend is out of luck, I'm afraid!  No noble for him until at least his next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T19:42:22.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11261" CreationDate="2013-03-01T19:56:18.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend doesn't collect a Noble, because that is the second step after playing an action card and &lt;strong&gt;Escape&lt;/strong&gt; caused those nobles to be discarded. (Note: Your friend should draw an action card, since the next day doesn't begin until the start of the next players turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order of play is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play an action card (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect the first noble in line&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw an action card (whether or not you played one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.headlesshollow.com/downloads/games/Guillotine_v1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play continues until there are &lt;strong&gt;no nobles&lt;/strong&gt; left in line &lt;strong&gt;at the start of someone’s turn&lt;/strong&gt;. That day is then over and a new day begins: deal out 12 new noble cards from the noble deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T22:08:33.450" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T22:08:33.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11259" CreationDate="2013-03-01T20:05:13.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vintage almost always runs power-9 and other &quot;tenth power&quot; cards such as Mishra's factory and Library of Alexandria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vintage&lt;/strong&gt; decks tend to get into the &lt;strong&gt;ten thousands&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the major expense of &lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt; decks is lands.  Other cards can be fairly expensive, but not as much as the lands.  Outliers include things like Jtms, FOW, Moat, Goyf, and candleabra.  you can also run fetchlands, which tend to be a bit cheaper than straight-up duals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can generally put together a decent legacy for around &lt;strong&gt;$600&lt;/strong&gt;.  Affinity, Elves, and Goblins can be as low as &lt;strong&gt;$200&lt;/strong&gt;, depending on the build.  Some of the more expensive legacy decks, which run playsets of jace or moats can get up to &lt;strong&gt;$2000&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern&lt;/strong&gt; decks vary in price.  I estimate the cost of a typical tron deck at $300 to &lt;strong&gt;$400&lt;/strong&gt;, but you can definitely go cheaper with things like burn  The cost of modern is kinda in flux at the moment, and with modern masters on the way, IT might be going down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt; decks should normally run you around &lt;strong&gt;$200&lt;/strong&gt; for all of the best stuff, but when one card dominates the format as much as say... Jace, the price can go way up.  But you can go way lower than that, especially if you're running mono-red, mono-green, or something like that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before, RTR, I ran a &lt;strong&gt;$40&lt;/strong&gt; mono-green deck that could come in first place at the local FNM through tier-1 delver and wolf-run decks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;right now&lt;/strong&gt; standard is a bit inflated with all the legacy and modern playability of the cards(like shocks) keeping the prices up.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just looking to play at some of the local FNM tournaments, you should pick up an &lt;strong&gt;event deck&lt;/strong&gt;, they retail for about &lt;strong&gt;$25&lt;/strong&gt;, but sometimes they have more value than the MSRP so your Local Games Store might charge more than that.  If they do, I'd recommend checking out nearby LGS's to see if they have the event deck at MSRP.  Some LGS's do, and some don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;an &lt;strong&gt;event deck&lt;/strong&gt; is a simple deck that has about 7 rares, but is geared toward being a decently playable deck.  It will generally run a bunch of good commons and uncommons, and it is expected to win about 25% of the time at a competitive tournament.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-03-01T20:11:15.250" LastActivityDate="2013-03-01T20:11:15.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11269" CreationDate="2013-03-02T12:19:21.107" Score="7" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two board games which use a lot of cards, but their boxes don't have dedicated space to store them in an ordered manner and whenever I'd like to play them again I have to start with sorting all the cards by type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I store these cards so they don't fly all over the box? The exact two games I have in mind are &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/77423/the-lord-of-the-rings-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lord of the Rings LCG&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/65592/dragons-ordeal&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragon's Ordeal&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm looking for a solution which I could apply to a greater variety of dimensions. I am not from the UK or US so I'd prefer more generic items, because it might be difficult/too expensive to purchase stuff from Amazon or online shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4956" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-02T15:15:03.177" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T10:32:57.817" Title="How to store cards when game boxes don't have slots for them" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2013-03-02T13:17:33.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rubber bands&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/369756/geeks-who-dont-use-rubber-bands-or-plastic-bags&quot;&gt;Extremely cheap solution&lt;/a&gt;. Allows you to group cards of a similar type together. Over a long period of time though, the rubber will crack and may even stick to your cards. If you sleeve your cards this is of minor concern.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plastic Sandwich bags&lt;/strong&gt; - If you submit your games to high humidity, these do not &quot;breath&quot; and may cause moisture damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Custom Dividers&lt;/strong&gt; - You can create &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1392281/the-lord-of-the-rings-the-card-game&quot;&gt;custom dividers&lt;/a&gt; for your game boxes by cutting cardboard, chip board, foam core, or wood into horizontal and vertical slats with notches. When pieced together, they should hold the cards in place.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Custom Tuck boxes&lt;/strong&gt; - Many games have custom tuck boxes that have been designed by fans. Check the BGG file section. If not, you can always use a deck box for Magic the Gathering or similar card game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T13:17:33.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2013-03-02T15:38:42.163" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hair Bands&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kNLgm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hair bands&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to using rubber bands, but they don't deteriorate and stick to the cards over time. If possible get metal free ones, rather than the type on the right - less likely to catch on the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Small Cardboard Boxes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zyHQx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cardboard Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look around your house, you'll probably find something that's the right size. Plasters often come in boxes that are a good fit for cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2013-03-02T19:58:46.910" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T19:58:46.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11271" CreationDate="2013-03-02T16:18:34.957" Score="4" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine was playing a deck that uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=276198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cathars' Crusade&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt; (and cards like it) to pump his creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another guy was watching and said that all the tokens went on the stack separately so each subsequent token was smaller than the last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to my question: Is this correct? And, if it is, what happens if, in response to the first or second token going on the stack, someone played a split second spell so nothing else could enter the stack (like the rest of the tokens)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T16:45:48.610" Title="Do Gather The Townsfolk's (or cards like it) tokens go on the stack separately?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2013-03-02T16:27:15.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;NO, only the spell is put on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2012/05/cathars-crusade-triggers-multiple-times-if-multiple-creatures-enter-at-the-same-time/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Bog Post from magicjudges.org&lt;/a&gt; talks about that exact situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt; resolves both tokens enter the battlefield simultaneously and then the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=276198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cathars' Crusade&lt;/a&gt; triggers go on the stack. When the Cathars' Crusade triggers resolve both tokens get a +1/+1 counters for each trigger, and therefore both creatures are 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: For a similar situation see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8399/do-creatures-that-enter-the-battlefield-at-the-same-time-see-each-other-enter&quot;&gt;this question's answers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T16:27:15.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2013-03-02T16:29:50.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tokens don't go on the stack, only spells and abilities. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20the%20Townsfolk&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt; creates both tokens simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20the%20Townsfolk&quot;&gt;Gather the Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gather the Townsfolk resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put two 1/1 white Human creature tokens onto the battlefield. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cathars%27%20Crusade&quot;&gt;Cathars&amp;#39; Crusade&lt;/a&gt;'s triggers twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability is placed on the stack twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second instance of Cathars' Crusade's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first instance of Cathars' Crusade's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both tokens (and any other creatures you might have had) got two +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your second question, someone casting a split second spell would not change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A split second spell between steps 1 and 2 would resolve before step 2, then you continue with step 2. Same goes for one cast between steps 3 and 4, or between steps 4 and 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split second merely stop you from casting a spell or activating an ability in response to the split second spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-02T16:45:48.610" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T16:45:48.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11270" CreationDate="2013-03-02T16:36:30.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20The%20Townsfolk&quot;&gt;Gather The Townsfolk&lt;/a&gt; is one spell on the stack that generates multiple tokens. Each token entering the battlefield triggers a separate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cathars%27%20Crusade&quot;&gt;Cathars&amp;#39; Crusade&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; ability. (This is probably what that guy was talking about.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all the tokens enter the battlefield simultaneously. The &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; abilities on the stack each resolve in turn, and all the tokens are already on the battlefield, so all the tokens will get a +1/+1 counter from the effect of each ability. This is clarified with the Cathars' Crusade ruling on gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature that entered the battlefield and caused the ability to trigger will also get a +1/+1 counter, provided it's still on the battlefield when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, if it is, what happens if, in response to the first or second token going on the stack, someone played a split second spell so nothing else could enter the stack (like the rest of the tokens)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've established that tokens aren't going on the stack, only the spell that creates them. They all enter the battlefield simultaneously, so there's nothing Split Second can do to prevent a token from being created. Split Second also doesn't prevent triggered abilities from going on the stack, so there's nothing it can do to prevent the tokens from receiving all the +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-02T16:37:43.620" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T16:37:43.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-02T22:54:42.663" Score="2" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of cards in the Starcraft Board Game (I believe it's exclusive to those from the Brood War expansion) refer to actions to be done during, or after, the &quot;Action Phase&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official instructions list only three phases; Planning, Execution, and Regrouping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From context, I would guess that &quot;Action Phase&quot; is synonymous to &quot;Execution Phase&quot; (many of the cards seem overpowered otherwise), but I was hoping to find an official answer rather than conjecture: &lt;strong&gt;Which phase is the &quot;Action Phase?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T00:14:57.367" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T12:05:02.473" Title="Which is the &quot;Action Phase&quot;?" Tags="|starcraft|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11165" CreationDate="2013-03-02T23:30:29.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Target has them in stock - just keep checking their website as it alternates between available and not available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4976" LastActivityDate="2013-03-02T23:30:29.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2013-03-03T03:44:29.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are mine. I am usually always the moderator, so I pick a few of these classes at random for game. It'd be ridiculous to use all of them at once. Though I have tried it for fun once. I number the cards for certain reasons. (You'll see in the roles) It also allows me to say their number instead of saying their role, unless they are the &quot;Always in the game&quot; roles, IE. Werewolves, Seer. You can chose which ones these are. That way players have to actually think on what the roles are. So for instance: Number three, wake up. What will you do? Me and my friends have played for a very long time, so we always know what to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Villager&lt;/strong&gt; Normal town role, cannot do anything but vote at day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Werewolf&lt;/strong&gt; The werewolves have to kill everyone and be the last men standing. They are allowed to decide at night who to kill. They have a maximum of 1 minute, and can end their conversation short if they please.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Neighborhood Watch&lt;/strong&gt; At night, the NHW can see everything, who visited who. This can only be done once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Veteran&lt;/strong&gt;  At night, can go on alert and kill whoever visits them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mayor:&lt;/strong&gt; Starts as a normal villager, but has the choice to reveal. Flipping his card and now his votes count as 3. You can pretend to be Mayor, but if you're not. You CANNOT flip your card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tanner&lt;/strong&gt; The tanner was loved by all. But after drugs, his nain goal is to be lynched. Once he is lynched, he picks a number from X-Y (Depending on how many numbers are on the cards/how many cards there are) once he picks, the person with that number turns over their card at day, and has killed them self. If he is killed from some other form besides lynch, he fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Werewolf Hunter&lt;/strong&gt; At night, the WH as 3 arrows. She can shoot whoever she wants, but if she runs out of arrows, she cannot kill anymore. This is a vigilante Town Role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vampire&lt;/strong&gt; There is only one vampire. Every night, the vampire kills someone. The vampire is it's own team. It wins once it is the only one alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seer&lt;/strong&gt; The Seer can choose one person at night. If it is a killing role, he gets a thumbs down. If a villager, he gets a sideways hand, or a fist. If it is a special town role then he gets a thumbs up. Seer goes at the very end of the night. Important for witch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Little Girl&lt;/strong&gt; A worse version of the Seer. Every night she can choose someone to visit. However if she chooses a Killing Role, she dies. This includes WH. Once she inspects a Seer however, the current Seer dies. And the LG becomes a Sheriff. If the LG inspects the victim of a Werewolf, the LG and the victim both die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sheriff&lt;/strong&gt; The sheriff can decide at night when woken up, to either have detailed descriptions of their &quot;victims&quot;, or for when he inspects someone, to have the same rules as Seer, but the results are announced by the Moderator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hero&lt;/strong&gt; The hero can choose one person to protect at night, but instead of the victim dying, the Hero and the attacker both die. This applies to ALL killing classes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mage&lt;/strong&gt; The Mage at night, chooses one person to stun for the entire night, getting in the way of whatever he was about to do. ie. The werewolf attacks John, but is stunned by a mage. Thus it never happens. Whenever the Mage wants, he can decide to become a Magician, or a Witch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magician&lt;/strong&gt; The Magician has a bunny and a magic stick. The bunny can distract (stun) someone, but only has one use. The Magic Stick protects whoever he targets, like a medic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Witch&lt;/strong&gt; Has 3 potions, Poison, and Stun. The stuns whoever he targets. Poison kills whoever he visits and himself. The witch can also mind control one person and make him do his action on another person. If a villager, then nothing happens. If a seer, then (and this is my favorite part) the Seer gets the results of the Witch's target, not the Seer's target. The witch does not see the results. The witch must go first, so that there are no mix ups for the other player's role results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Executioner&lt;/strong&gt; The executioner's goal is to get his target lynched. His target is a random player, and can even be a werewolf. The moderator, on the first night, tells the Executioner to wake up. The moderator then points (The moderator must be very specific for no mixups) to the target. The executioner's main goal is to get him lynched. If the target is killed at night, the executioner becomes a tanner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cupid&lt;/strong&gt; Cupid goes second on night one, and decides who to people are to become lovers. The two people who are chosen are tapped by the moderator. The two open their eyes and look at eachother.  These choices can be influenced by a Witch. If the witch chooses cupid to &quot;Lover&quot; someone else, Cupid will turn into a lover. Once Cupid dies, he can choose one person to kill themselves, if he wishes, he can abstain. Cupid cannot choose someone to die if he dies from Burst. Cupid wins from staying alive, and having the Lovers survive. If the lovers die, Cupid turns to stone. Once Cupid turns to stone, he has two choices. For the Werewolves to win, or for the villagers to win. He cannot work with the Werewolves in their conversation, or speak during the lynch. However at one point during the night, every night. He will be asked to shatter. Shattering will let him talk for one day, and die at night. He can lie about the Werewolves, or rat out the Werewolves. The Moderator will ask which side Cupid is on, a thumbs up is town. A thumbs down is Werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lover&lt;/strong&gt; Every night, the lovers wake up and without words, use their hands, arms, face expressions to make out a plan for 1 minute. If the lovers decide to, they can end this discussion short. Cupid is involved in this chat. Cupid has an over all decision on how the lovers will act. However if both Lovers agree, they can make Cupid burst. (Die) If cupid dies, nothing happens to the Lovers. Whoever kills the lovers, gets one extra life once they die. Making Lover and Cupid the hardest in the game. Once one lover dies, they both die. The lovers must stay alive until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4977" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T03:44:29.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11279" CreationDate="2013-03-03T04:19:29.647" Score="6" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this sounds like a silly question, but the rules are kinda awkwardly worded and I've seen some videos of Twilight Struggle where this restriction is overlooked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules (section 6.2.1):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attempt a Realignment roll, the acting player need not have any Influence in the target country &lt;strong&gt;or in any adjacent country&lt;/strong&gt; — although this improves the chance of success greatly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds perfectly clear, except the added last bit which confuses me. However, the next section (6.2.2) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each player&lt;/strong&gt; modifies his die roll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• +1 for each adjacent controlled country,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• +1 if they have more Influence in the target country than their opponent,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• +1 if your Superpower is adjacent to the target country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why claim it's &amp;quot;each player&amp;quot;? And then the following example says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The US player targets North Korea for Realignment. There are 3 USSR Influence points in North Korea, while the US player has none. &lt;strong&gt;The US player has no modifiers—he does not ￼control any adjacent countries and has less Influence in North Korea then the Soviets.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why mention it at all? Shouldn't the example say &amp;quot;the US player has no modifiers &lt;em&gt;because as the acting player he may not have any influence in that country or adjacent countries&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 6.2.2 is even more confusing by stating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player rolls a die and the high roller may remove the difference between the rolls from their opponent’s Influence in the target country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shouldn't one of the players (the acting one) not have any influence at all in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the wording here is poor. But how should we play this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T20:58:03.947" Title="Twilight Struggle: When are we allowed to do a Realignment Roll?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11278" CreationDate="2013-03-03T05:18:42.993" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are reading &quot;need not have any influence&quot; as &quot;must have no influence&quot;. Rather, it means &quot;the acting player may take the action &lt;strong&gt;whether or not&lt;/strong&gt; he/she has any influence in the target country.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Ops points are used towards realignment, in a single &quot;Realignment roll&quot;, &lt;em&gt;both players&lt;/em&gt; roll a die and add their relevant modifiers. The winner removes the opponent's influence, if any, from the target country. So if you have no influence in the target country, you have nothing to lose, but less of a chance of affecting your opponent. You make one such &quot;Realignment roll&quot; per point spent, and you may target a different country with each roll (or the same country more than once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T05:18:42.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-03T18:43:08.697" Score="10" ViewCount="16048" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of us are probably aware of the classic 'Rock-paper-scissors' game. I'm looking for an expansion with as many weapons as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One popular alternative is '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.samkass.com/theories/RPSSL.html&quot;&gt;Rock-paper-scissors-lizard-Spock&lt;/a&gt;'. Is there any longer expansion available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4980" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T08:14:09.243" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T09:19:51.540" Title="Adding additional weapons to rock-paper-scissors" Tags="|rock-paper-scissors|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11283" CreationDate="2013-03-03T18:51:31.780" Score="4" ViewCount="3412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Assets can be advanced (e.g. Project Junebug) and some can't (e.g. Snare!).  Is it OK to advance any asset cards to make them look like Agenda?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with the ambush assets the Runner would be lured, but the advance token(s) would have no other effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T21:24:54.873" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T16:35:44.307" Title="Can we fake-advance any card?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11284" CreationDate="2013-03-03T19:06:29.740" Score="10" ViewCount="2868" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the corporation R&amp;amp;D is empty the corporation loses.  What happens when the Runner's stack is empty?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that: He must finish the game with only the cards on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt that: He reshuffles the heap into a new stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="4981" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T19:37:56.590" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T23:03:38.810" Title="What happens when the Runner stack is empty?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11281" CreationDate="2013-03-03T19:19:21.573" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot fake advance cards that do not specifically say they can be advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 14 in the rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards other than agendas can only be advanced if their text box allows it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/892149/can-you-advance-snare&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/892149/can-you-advance-snare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4981" LastEditorUserId="4981" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T22:47:58.113" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:47:58.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11282" CreationDate="2013-03-03T19:39:11.033" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your instinct is correct; the runner continues to play with the cards that he/she has in play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would have been nice if the rules clarified this a little, but since they don't specify that anything special happens you carry on playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the runner being able to continue playing, the runner can no longer draw cards and therefore becomes prone to getting flat-lined (having to trash more cards than there are in their hand) and losing that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fairly rare occurrence, since the corporation draws every turn, whereas the runner doesn't necessarily. Usually the corporation would deplete their deck before the runner, ending the game that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related Links:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/853237/depleted-runner-stack&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/853237/depleted-runner-stack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/877799/if-the-runner-runs-out-of-cards-in-his-stack-can-h&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/877799/if-the-runner-runs-out-of-cards-in-his-stack-can-h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4981" LastEditorUserId="4981" LastEditDate="2013-03-03T23:03:38.810" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T23:03:38.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11291" CreationDate="2013-03-03T21:03:27.797" Score="5" ViewCount="891" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a couple of miniature painting tutorials and both times the narrator referred to &quot;sealing&quot; the model.  I'm not quite sure what he meant by this.  What does sealing a model refer to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1773" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:24:25.753" Title="Miniature painting - what does it mean to seal the model?" Tags="|miniatures|modelling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11280" CreationDate="2013-03-03T21:35:48.817" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, I think your need is probably satisfied by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.umop.com/rps101.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;RPS-101: 101 gesture Rock-Paper-Scissors&lt;/a&gt;. There are apparently 5,050 possible outcomes to this game, which should keep you entertained for a while...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something slightly less mindblowingly hardcore, the same author has also developed &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.umop.com/rps.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;7, 9, 11, 15 and 25 gesture variants&lt;/a&gt;. These get complicated quickly! As an example, the 15 gesture version looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xgoX1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T21:35:48.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11290" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:03:20.430" Score="4" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been through the rule book several times and we've only played the game twice so it could be I'm missing something. The scenario is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keeper moves a monster into an investigator's space.  The keeper's turn ends after keeper actions and the investigator uses their action to fight the monster.  The investigator wins and the monster takes damage, but does not die.  The investigator then wants to use their 2 moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the investigator have to roll for evade?  Does the answer to that question make a difference if the investigator won or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T09:02:42.833" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T09:02:42.833" Title="Does the investigator have to evade after combat?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11281" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:17:12.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say you can advance Agendas, and any other card which says it can be advanced. If a card says you can advance it, you can. For Assets which don't say you can advance them, you cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card does say you can advance it, you can advance it even when it is unrezzed, unless it says otherwise. (Normally card effects only apply when they are ressed and active.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:17:12.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11288" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:20:52.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you must &lt;strong&gt;Evade&lt;/strong&gt; a monster to take any other action than &lt;strong&gt;Attack&lt;/strong&gt;, it doesn't matter if you succeeded in your attack. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules (page 9, 14, and 15)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking a monster is the only action that an investigator can perform while a monster is in his space (unless he evades the monster, see “Evade Tests” on page 14).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An investigator must make an evade test against every monster in his space before moving or performing non-attack actions. [...] Regardless of whether he passes or fails, the investigator may then move or perform the intended action. After having attempted to evade a monster, the investigator may freely move and take actions without having to try to evade the same monster that turn. [...] Attacking a monster does not require making an evade test. This attack may be unarmed, with a weapon, or with an “attack” Spell card. This attack does not need to target a monster in the investigator’s space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/mansions-faq-v-2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stunned monsters&lt;/a&gt; do not need to be evaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Do stunned monsters cause evade checks? What about horror checks? Can they take samples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Investigators can freely evade stunned monsters (because they cannot attack). Stunned monsters still cause Horror checks and can still take samples (although they are not moved after taking the sample).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:49:29.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11286" CreationDate="2013-03-03T22:24:25.753" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sealing a model means applying a coat of a transparent and durable protective layer after painting. Normally this is a clear varnish. After leaving your painted model to thoroughly dry, you brush or spray it on. This helps prevent chipping and flaking of your paint job during subsequent transportation and gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a basic choice of gloss or matte finish, depending on whether you like your models more reflective or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main downside of sealing is that it makes applying further paint changes or touch ups very difficult. So be sure you're satisfied with your paint job before you seal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-03-03T22:24:25.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2013-03-03T23:18:35.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a bunch of these grip seal bags in various sizes. I did buy these from Amazon, but have seen them in stationery shops if you prefer not to get them shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These ones for cards cost me £1.34 GBP with free shipping for 100 (1.3 pence each). Unless eBay/Amazon shipping is super extortionate for you, I think they are worth the investment; I've found them great for storing decks of cards as well as other components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0026DGN00/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0026DGN00/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;psc=1&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aQyML.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;grip seal bags&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4981" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T10:32:57.817" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T10:32:57.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11305" CreationDate="2013-03-04T10:22:31.937" Score="7" ViewCount="7032" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building Corporation decks for Android: Netrunner, I've been finding it difficult to get the balance of ICE in my deck right. For instance, in my most recent deck, I've found that I've put a little too much in my deck resulting (to some extent) in dead draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What proportion of my deck should be ICE?&lt;/strong&gt; I expect it varies by strategy too, so what should I take into consideration when deciding whether I should go slightly higher or lower than the &quot;correct&quot; proportion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, once I know how much ICE I'm using, &lt;strong&gt;how should it be distributed with respect to barriers/code gates/sentries?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I have an even variety of the three, or is it feasible to have more of some types than of others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:11:12.730" Title="What distribution of ICE should I have in my deck?" Tags="|deck-building|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11267" CreationDate="2013-03-04T12:23:57.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do not find tuckboxes for your favorite game at boardgamegeek.com already, you may always easly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cpforbes.net/tuckbox/tuckbox.cgi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;create your own boxes here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user4985" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-03-27T05:51:01.157" LastActivityDate="2018-03-27T05:51:01.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11293" CreationDate="2013-03-04T14:42:28.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;General advice is to have at least 20/49 cards in your deck ICE. You do want a varied mixture of types, but it doesn't have to be evenly distributed between the three types. If you lack a type completely, then you are speeding up the time until a runner has all their needed icebreakers in play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like Dinosaurus and Special Order can really punish a corporation deck which relies on one type of ICE too heavily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T14:42:28.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11300" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:19:40.213" Score="4" ViewCount="3748" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played for the first time last night, and we tried the family version to start to understand the game. The situation arose where a smoke marker came up on top of a POI marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The POI marker was still unknown. We searched the manual and couldn't find any reference to it, so is it ok to put the smoke marker underneath a POI marker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T20:45:08.077" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:07:16.700" Title="Can smoke be placed on a POI?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11299" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:23:12.423" Score="2" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've tried to understand the manual, but maybe the fact that it is written in English, which is not our mother language, could be making it hard for us to understand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an explosion occurs, and a POI is in the way, the manual said that you flip the POI marker and take it off the board, to the dead toll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the POI marker is blank, does it still count as a victim at the end of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T16:25:18.960" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T16:25:18.960" Title="If a blank POI marker is set on fire, does it still count as a victim?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11301" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:29:51.230" Score="11" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Magic again last year right after the release of Dark Ascension after a long hiatus. I decided to get more serious in trying to win, but I've hit a roadblock in my play. I go x-1 in my FNM booster drafts regularly, but also regularly lose to the top players at my store. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also play the Swiss draft queues  on MTGO, but while I do win the tournaments there sometimes, many times I feel that I am not drafting the right archetype, missing signals, or not really playing well. This also applies to my deck building and play for Constructed as well (mostly Standard). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a place where I can get my deck building choices and technical game play critiqued so that I can get better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T16:28:54.527" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T07:43:47.660" Title="Where can I get my Magic the Gathering play critiqued?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11297" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:45:59.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, blank markers are &quot;False Alarms&quot;, not &quot;Victims&quot;.  They do not count towards the loss condition of &quot;4+ Victims Lost&quot;, just like you place revealed False Alarms on the Rescued space but they do not count towards the victory condition of &quot;7 Victims Rescued&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T15:45:59.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11296" CreationDate="2013-03-04T15:48:44.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Placing Smoke on a POI&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you put the smoke on the same space as the POI, and the POI is unaffected.  If the smoke later turns into fire, the POI will then be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Placing a POI on Smoke&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the family version (page 6 of the rules), yes.  They even eliminate the smoke for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Target space has a Fire or Smoke marker, remove that Fire/Smoke&#xA;  marker before placing the POI marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in the experienced game (page 10 of the rules), you adjust their position instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Experienced game a POI may only be placed in a space without a&#xA;  Threat marker (Fire or Smoke), Firefighter or another POI. If the POI&#xA;  Replenishment Target space is invalid, then use this diagram to&#xA;  redirect the POI. Begin in the Target space and follow the path&#xA;  created by the arrows as shown until you reach a valid space. The&#xA;  arrows are also placed on the board for easy reference during the&#xA;  game. If there are no valid spaces on the path, reroll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-08-23T21:07:16.700" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:07:16.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2013-03-04T16:49:51.910" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. I would generally say that there's not much point having your play critiqued &lt;em&gt;in general&lt;/em&gt; - you want to be critiqued by people who are better than you.  But the real pros are generally too busy winning drafts to offer commentaries on other people's (they'd be in serious demand if they weren't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I therefore have an alternative suggestion: forget about other people discussing your play, just go to a good pro draft videos site like channelfireball.com and try to understand the choices &lt;strong&gt;they&lt;/strong&gt; make (and discuss them with others in the comment section if you don't understand them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That alone is a bit of a non-answer to your question, I guess.  If you really want to create transcripts of your drafts and offer them up for others to analyse, I'd recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23&quot;&gt;MTGSalvation Limited forum&lt;/a&gt;.  Not that you can guarantee that people will be interested in going through your picks with a fine-toothed comb and debating them, but you stand a better chance there than in most places, I'd have thought...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T16:49:51.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2013-03-04T17:39:43.937" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To piggyback on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11301/50&quot;&gt;the answer of thesunneversets&lt;/a&gt;, look at how the pros play by watching their MTGO videos. You can find them on Channel Fireball and Starcitygames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's a way you should watch them to get maximum benefit. At each decision point, pause the video and ask yourself what the right play is. This includes mulligan and sideboarding decisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, compare your play with what the pro does. If your play is different, try to figure out why the pro's play was better. Now, sometimes your play will be better but you better have a really good reason why. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get more input on particular game states, take a screenshot of the game state and post it on MTG Salvation and ask them what play they would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this type of practice a lot, you'll start thinking like a pro and then you can apply the concepts you learn into your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing though. This type of practice is draining and not particularly fun. It's much more fun to just keep playing games over and over again and hope that you're getting better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By analyzing the pros' games, you'll be doing something out of your comfort zone. You will fail a lot and failure is not fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the world class ice skater. She looks flawless in the Olympics. She makes difficult jumps look easy. However, if you were at her countless practices, you would see the hundreds of falls she experienced before she was able to nail those jumps perfectly. Falling down over and over is not fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're going to have to have that same experience of falling down multiple times and learning from your falls before you actually become much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can learn more about the process of improving skills by reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1591842948&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Talent is Overrated&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That book was super helpful to me for improving my game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, one more thing. Regarding deck building, I would focus on technical play and just pick a tier one stock deck. Improving your technical play will lead to more wins than building a new deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck tuning is another matter. The only thing I would say about that is to know the card pool of the format and be mindful of the cards that are not pulling their weight as you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've identified the worst cards in your deck, go through the card pool and try to find better alternatives. If you can't find any, then maybe the deck is just flawed or not good enough for the metagame. It might be time to choose another deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4987" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T18:04:44.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11304" CreationDate="2013-03-04T18:34:27.313" Score="4" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Ransom&quot;&gt;Soul Ransom&lt;/a&gt; has an interesting ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard two cards: Soul Ransom's controller sacrifices it, then draws two cards. Only any opponent may activate this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that the normal procedure for resolving abilities is &amp;quot;do as much as you can.&amp;quot; The use of &amp;quot;then&amp;quot; in the card text is confusing me a bit, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If Soul Ransom is already in the graveyard when its ability resolves, because the affected creature has been killed by some other means, do I still get to draw two cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenarios where this matters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I Soul Ransom a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thragtusk&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;. At the end of my turn, my opponent discards two cards to activate Soul Ransom's ability. I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devour%20Flesh&quot;&gt;Devour Flesh&lt;/a&gt; in hand, so it'd be real nice to give myself some life and a Beast token instead of just returning the Thragtusk. If I Devour-Flesh the Thragtusk in response, Soul Ransom will end up in my graveyard by the time its ability resolves. Will I still get to draw cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a control mirror and my opponent Soul-Ransoms my Angel of Serenity. He only has 10 cards left in his library. Can I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphinx%27s%20Revelation&quot;&gt;Sphinx&amp;#39;s Revelation&lt;/a&gt; for 12, then put Soul Ransom's ability onto the stack multiple times to force him to draw himself to death? (Even though only the top-most instance will cause Soul Ransom to be sacrificed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:59:12.460" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:59:12.460" Title="Do I still get to draw cards if I can't sacrifice Soul Ransom when its ability resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11303" CreationDate="2013-03-04T18:40:02.820" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes to all three questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the draw was contingent on the sacrifice, the sacrifice would be made part of the cost, or the effect would be &amp;quot;Soul Ransom's controller sacrifices it. If he does, he draws two cards&amp;quot;. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%2C%20the%20Veil-Cursed&quot;&gt;Garruk, the Veil-Cursed&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability for an example of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T18:45:13.240" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T18:45:13.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11293" CreationDate="2013-03-04T20:34:53.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is more of a 'How I pick my ICE/General ideas' than anything else, but here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, corp decks will run anywhere between 1/3 to 1/2 of their deck as ICE (most decks landing somewhere in the middle). When I build decks my starting point is 18 ICE out of 49 cards with 6 of each type. That's basically my boilerplate average deck idea. Then that'll change depending on which corp I'm building. In faction, here's what you're looking at for ICE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Haas lacks an early game barrier and a late game code gate but is pretty solid everywhere else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jinteki has a late game barrier [&lt;code&gt;Wall of Thorns&lt;/code&gt;] and...yeah. A fair amount of early game ICE but none of it has stopping power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NBN has a good barrier [&lt;code&gt;TMI&lt;/code&gt;] (as long as the trace succeeds the first time), a good sentry [&lt;code&gt;Data Raven&lt;/code&gt;], and a great code gate [&lt;code&gt;Tollbooth&lt;/code&gt;]. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weyland's ICE is cool in that you can advance a number of them to increase their strength [&lt;code&gt;Shadow&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Ice Wall&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Hadrian's Wall&lt;/code&gt;], so early game ICE is potentially useful later as well, but completely lacks code gate ICE.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The neutrals &lt;code&gt;Wall of Static&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Enigma&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Chimera&lt;/code&gt; are all useful early game ICE as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I try to have an early game and late game (ie. cheap/expensive) ICE of each of the three types, but I think early game ICE are more important. &lt;code&gt;Tollbooth&lt;/code&gt; doesn't do you any good if it's your only code gate and you can't get it on the table. And a single &lt;code&gt;Wall of Static&lt;/code&gt; can work wonders if the runner just isn't pulling t[heir barrier breaker. &lt;code&gt;Chimera&lt;/code&gt; is a really good piece of ICE early game as it's whatever you need, but can get expensive quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cover for the various ICE deficiencies inherent in corps by adding in neutral cards and pulling from other corps. Not having ICE of a specific type will hurt since the runner no longer has to care about playing one of their icebreakers. &lt;code&gt;Tollbooth&lt;/code&gt; is a popular code gate to pull in, and &lt;code&gt;Archer&lt;/code&gt; is a popular sentry if you think you've got the ability to sacrifice an agenda (NBN) or stand a good chance of rezzing it for free (Haas). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, you can play to your corp's strength/keep their weaknesses in mind! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NBN loves traces and tags but remember that all the traces in the world won't help if you can't stop the run &amp;amp; the runner removes the tag before your turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Haas has a good economy and strong ICE, but bioroids can be bypassed very easily by runners with extra time on their hands. &lt;code&gt;E3 Feedback&lt;/code&gt; is your worst enemy. A single bioroid on a server is significantly less dangerous than three bioroids on one server. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weyland also has a good economy, but needs to spend a lot of time to bump up their early game ICE, if that's the route you're going.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jinteki has a weaker economy and a more tricksy playstyle, so it's hard to give more definitive advice other than cheap ICE is your friend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also take a look at what it takes for the various runner to break through ICE and compare that to a particular piece of ICE's cost, but that's less helpful since runners can pull icebreakers from each other to mitigate weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anarchs: Hard to analyze. Either they can get through for very cheap/free (using &lt;code&gt;Ice Carver&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;Datasucker&lt;/code&gt; + &lt;code&gt;Parasite&lt;/code&gt;) or they can't get through at all. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Criminals: Have to bump up strength in &gt;1 increments and have the only breakers that cost 2 credits to break 1 subroutine. So consider what levels of strength could be most inconvenient. ie. A strength 1 &lt;code&gt;Draco&lt;/code&gt; is just as annoying as a strength 5 &lt;code&gt;Draco&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;Ninja&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;code&gt;Ninja&lt;/code&gt; is arguably the best sentry breaker in the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shapers: Pretty balanced, especially with &lt;code&gt;Personal Touch&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Modded&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;code&gt;Gordian Blade&lt;/code&gt; is a great Code Gate breaker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as an example, if I were building a Weyland deck I know I'll have easy money, so I'd pull in my big hitters [&lt;code&gt;Archer&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Hadrian's Wall&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Tollbooth&lt;/code&gt;]. These also cover the three types pretty well for late game play. After that I'd pull in &lt;code&gt;Chimera&lt;/code&gt; since Weyland can feed it pretty easily. I wouldn't really care about having another Code Gate since &lt;code&gt;Enigma&lt;/code&gt; is pretty weak and I'd personally prefer to spend the influence somewhere else rather than pulling in &lt;code&gt;Viktor&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Viper&lt;/code&gt;. For remaining sentries I'd want to avoid relying on traces since I'm already looking at spending most of my money in other places. Maybe a &lt;code&gt;Data Raven&lt;/code&gt;. Possibly a &lt;code&gt;Shadow&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Caduceus&lt;/code&gt; if I think the runner would let me get money from those subroutines. &lt;code&gt;Wall of Static&lt;/code&gt; is my go-to barrier, so that would get included easy. At this point I'm sitting on 16 pieces of ICE (assuming you don't have multiple base boxes) and would probably include one more 'thing' that would totally vary depending on how I'm feeling. Probably some piece of ICE that's cheaper for me to rez than it is for them to break once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is all just my .02! I've never won any tournaments, etc. etc. but hopefully that'll give you some idea of what goes through other people's heads when building decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:11:12.730" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:11:12.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11307" CreationDate="2013-03-04T21:37:06.577" Score="4" ViewCount="34935" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know how this site works so I'm going to try my hardest to ask questions that have answers and aren't too open to interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering getting (back) into Magic. My son is 12 now and he loves tabletop games.  I remember playing Magic in my college years and while my grades suffered, I had a blast.  I'm not looking to get into competition play.  Just fun with the family and friends.  I basically have 3, hopefully, simple questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it matter what block you start with when starting from scratch?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the answer to the above question is yes, then which blocks should I pick up a couple of starter decks for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do all blocks work together or do you have to build block based decks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-05T02:27:28.053" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T16:39:39.193" Title="If I am going to start playing Magic The Gathering, what set should I start with?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2013-03-04T21:50:48.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlesss you're playing in some sort of tournament, It doesn't matter what cards you use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most popular tournament format is &lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt;, and the legal cards for that are all the cards from the past 5 to 7 sets.(4 sets rotate out every October)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard legal sets include:  &lt;strong&gt;Innistrad&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Dark Ascention&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Avacyn Restored&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;M13&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Return to Ravnica&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Gatecrash&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally your local store will be selling these standard-legal sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other notable tournament formats include &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrmodern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Modern:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; which is cards printed in a major set since 8th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrlegacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Legacy:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; which has no time limit on cards, but there is a list of banned cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrvintage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vintage:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; which has no time limit, and has a restricted list(you can only use 1 of the card).  the only cards banned in Vintage are cards that deal with Ante and Shaharazad.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/resources/formats-sanctioned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can learn about other sanctioned formats here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just looking to play around with each-other casually, than it would be fine, to buy whatever starter decks your store happens to be selling and play them against each-other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to play a little more competitively, the Event decks are designed to be fairly powerful, and able to win a few games at low-level tournaments such as FNM(Friday Night Magic) events.  (your local store might have such events.  you should ask)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;your store might also have duel decks.  These are 2 decks designed to be played against each-other.  Not all the cards in these decks are Standard Legal &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-03-04T23:01:12.647" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T23:01:12.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2013-03-04T22:00:58.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, it doesn't matter what series you start with. The accessibility of cards is probably going to be the biggest driving force. Newer cards are going to be easier to find since you can get them at most big box stores as both individual packs and groups of packs (e.g.: fat packs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were going to get started, finding a couple of packs from one of the core sets, like M13, would provided the easiest entrance since it features simpler mechanics and generally prints out what each mechanic means. In some of the block sets, you get into more complex game play which requires more knowledge of stack rules and such. This is great to know, but it is probably easier to start with a core set. You may even be able to find pre-built decks in each of the colors for a core set, which would give you a decent idea about the strengths and weaknesses of each color. For a little while, local cardshops were handing out free 40-card decks in each color from M13 to try and get new players into the game. It may be worth calling your local cardshop to see if they happen to have any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All blocks do work together, but some are more synergistic than others. Red cards will always work with red cards, but you may be looking at different types of play depending on the block. As an older example, you wouldn't want to try and mix too many snow-covered type cards with sets that don't utilize effects of snow-covered. But for the most part, you'll be able to use cards from every set while making decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also would focus on trying to find pre-constructed decks before buying packs. Deck building is a rich and satisfying part of playing Magic, but it would be better to learn the flow of the game before trying to create decks that fit that flow. But knowing the basics provided by core sets is probably still more important than throwing extra mechanics in from block sets. My Order of Buying for Starters Priority (OBSP, trademark pending):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core Preconstructed Decks, like M13 and M12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core Individual Packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block Preconstructed Decks, e.g.: Return to Ravnica or Avacyn Restored&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block Individual Packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional, long after the fact edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every once in a while, WoTC releases &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Duel_Decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duel Decks&lt;/a&gt;. These are another good way to get more decks. For $20, the package includes two fully function 60-card themed decks. Each generally focuses on one mechanic, helping to ease you into more options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T19:52:26.740" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T19:52:26.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11306" CreationDate="2013-03-04T23:45:37.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards has provided a route for the new/casual player that's an introductory middle ground between buying enough booster packs to make a deck and buying a full-fledged tuned deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/1004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Booster Battle Packs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; with a MSRP of $9.99. They come with two 20-card semi-randomized decks, two 15-card booster packs, a learn to play guide and rules insert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the latest expansions have Battle Packs to get a taste of MtG play and deck building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-03-04T23:45:37.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11335" CreationDate="2013-03-05T04:16:11.447" Score="6" ViewCount="1751" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I got everything separated and packed pretty well (including the upgrade tiles), but what's really taking a long time during setup is the cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to set it up faster for players? It's also a drag for new players, gives them a bad first impression...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-07-28T20:51:39.747" LastActivityDate="2022-07-28T20:51:39.747" Title="How can I speed up the setup of Eclipse?" Tags="|eclipse|game-setup|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-05T05:05:10.480" Score="7" ViewCount="13801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two creatures out.  Creature One gives Creature Two +1/+1.  Creature One is a 2/2 and Creature Two is a 4/4 after adding the +1/+1 from Creature Two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts a spell doing 3 damage to all creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here's the question:  Does killing Creature One immediately remove the +1/+1 from Creature Two ending in her death as well?  Or does all the damage get applied then counters are removed leaving Creature Two with 1 toughness left?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4991" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T11:23:48.447" Title="If a +1/+1 counter is removed after a creature takes damage, does it die?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11968" CreationDate="2013-03-05T05:22:41.433" Score="0" ViewCount="32596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Star Trek CCG cards from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wixiban.com/ccg/1e-prem.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decipher game&lt;/a&gt; in the 1990s. I'm looking to discover if any of these cards have economic value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried looking at starcitygames.com and tcgplayer.com, but neither seems to cover older CCG games. I checked ebay but people's asking prices are varied and I suspect unrealistic. I know Scrye magazine used to list prices but that's out of print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any online or paper sources for Star Trek CCG card pricelists?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-08-13T04:28:17.860" LastActivityDate="2018-08-13T11:32:48.167" Title="Where can I find price-lists for Star Trek CCG cards?" Tags="|pricing|star-trek-ccg|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11311" CreationDate="2013-03-05T05:56:58.047" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Few points that should add up to an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Counter is not the same thing as a Static Ability that raises Power/Toughness.  Abilities that add counters will use the actual word Counter in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a counter is placed, killing the creature that placed it does not do anything.  So if you have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Adaptive%20Snapjaw&quot;&gt;Adaptive Snapjaw&lt;/a&gt; that evolved and is now 7/3 due to a +1/+1 counter on it, that counter does not go away just because the other creature that caused it to evolve dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand if you have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Archdruid&quot;&gt;Elvish Archdruid&lt;/a&gt; making all your elves +1/+1, that is a static ability.  All your elves get smaller immediately when he dies.  Sometimes new players do get in the habit of putting physical markers on other elves to track such an ability.  This is a bad habit, I would recommend against doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage does not reduce toughness.  The xBox game does it wrong, pretend you never saw it.  A 3/3 with 2 damage marked is just that, a 3/3 with two damage.  It is no way shape or form a 3/1 for any purpose.  So if your 3/3 with 2 damage marked is an Elf, and your elvish arch druid dies, he will become a 2/2 with 2 damage marked, and promptly go to the graveyard as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T05:56:58.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-05T07:51:57.350" Score="5" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride Europe pocket edition has an achievement that I just can't get! It's winning using all 3 stations during the game. Can anyone suggest any strategies on any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I play with 3 or 4 bot players? (You can't use double tracks with just 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I select the 20+ pt &quot;long route&quot; and try to complete it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I place the stations at the very end? The bot players keep ending the game before I get a chance to establish the stations. If I place the stations earlier, it's hard to keep adding new destination tickets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4993" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-05T18:40:55.150" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T18:40:55.150" Title="What's the best strategy for winning while using all 3 stations in Ticket to Ride Europe?" Tags="|online|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11314" CreationDate="2013-03-05T09:12:47.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play with 2 or 4 bots. You'll be needing stations more with more competition for routes. Why 2? because you don't get the second half of the doubles without 4 players total. This means that to win, you'll more likely need to make more connections through occupied chunks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If winning cleanly, grab some tickets, and take one or two that you can connect by dropping a station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T09:12:47.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11311" CreationDate="2013-03-05T11:23:48.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage remains until it's removed in the cleanup step. If your 4/4 with three damage on it is reduced to a 3/3 (in any way that doesn't remove the damage from it) it suddenly has lethal damage on it and dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T11:23:48.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2013-03-05T11:45:53.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are playing in live tournaments (such as FNM) you can use your friends/acquaintances that are better than you to help you improve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you finish your game first: Go over to their game and stand behind and pretend you're playing in their position. What would you do, why would you do it? Then see what they did do and try to figure out why. After the game you discuss why they played as they did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friend finishes his game first. He'll come and watch your game from your point of view and you have the same discussion afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important thing that's easy to overlook is that you also should discuss plays even if you came up with the same decision. You might have done it for different reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T11:45:53.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10894" CreationDate="2013-03-05T14:53:49.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are flash cards in the excellent book by Ken Uston titled &quot;Million Dollar Blackjack&quot;  This is a great book with interesting stories and strategies for different house rules.  Applies to counters and non-counters; single, double, and multiple deck games.  Vegas, Reno, AC rules explained as well.  I think you can find it for less than $20.&#xA;Good luck at the tables!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4994" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T14:53:49.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2013-03-05T16:31:43.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dexter Drake is handy for picking up extra spells. I agree with Gloria for the Otherworld Levels, good way to pick up elder signs. You have to clamp down on the midnight effects, and remember you can kill a monster even if you can't complete the tasks. Take the hit (and reward) and come back next time for the tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, I hate The Curator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4996" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T16:31:43.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11337" CreationDate="2013-03-05T16:39:17.787" Score="15" ViewCount="1856" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm juggling with a card game idea based on a popular fantasy universe. The game still has a long way to go yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before I really invest in developing the card game I want to make sure I'm not wasting time and want to verify if I'll be able to develop the card game at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game will use a tree of influence mechanism, where each player can acquire cards and can have those cards control other cards. They can even try to steal cards controlled by other players. The scope of the game is base on the nature of characters of a fantasy universe where there is a lot of back-stabbing, short-term alliances and power mongering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After thinking about that mechanic I remember playing Illuminati by Steve Jackson. I just want to know if that mechanism is patented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T09:34:56.977" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T18:02:22.953" Title="Am I at legal risk if I use a mechanism from another game in my own design?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11325" CreationDate="2013-03-05T16:55:42.177" Score="2" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScab-Clan%20Charger%5d&quot;&gt;Scab-Clan Charger&lt;/a&gt; and I don't understand the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard Scab-Clan Charger: Target attacking creature gets +2/+4 until&#xA;  end of turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alright, so the discard makes sense.  What is &quot;Target attacking creature&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-03-28T18:33:44.343" LastActivityDate="2018-03-28T18:33:44.343" Title="I Don't Understand Scab-Clan Charger's Ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11327" CreationDate="2013-03-05T16:56:23.500" Score="28" ViewCount="9060" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw the movie and was wowed by two things: the blind chess match in which Holmes wins with the move Bishop-Bishop 8, discovered check; and the mental fist fight they have in their minds. It's such a creative way for two geniuses (genii?) to do battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, was the match that they had real/plausible? Was it based on a real, historical chess match? And was it even played as chess masters would play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first instinct was that they took a historical and famous chess match, and my gut feeling is strong. But I could be wrong. And anyway, which chess match is this? I figured, if it's a historical chess match, many users here will have studied it before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to get a screenshot of the last configuration of the board, but they never actually show it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I know that Moriarty plays White. His opening move is c4.&#xA;When Holmes moves again, he is shown to play d5, some turn after he has played e5 (but we're not sure how many turns after). On the bright side, I have a this screenshot when he plays d5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://dl.dropbox.com/u/106018191/holmesmove.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot of his timepiece&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I have the list of moves they made during the end game, when their blind match started. I'll list their alternating moves according to how they said it, as I don't know how to write in notation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holmes: Bishop takes Knight, check&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Moriarty: King to Rook 2&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Rook to King's Rook 3&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Bishop to Rook 3&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Bishop takes Bishop&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Rook to Bishop 4&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Rook takes Rook&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Pawn takes Rook&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Bishop to Bishop 7&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Queen takes Knight Pawn&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Bishop to Bishop 8, discovered check, mate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4995" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T08:02:12.170" LastActivityDate="2021-02-20T10:36:56.010" Title="Was the blind chess match between Sherlock Holmes and James Moriarty in the movie Game of Shadows real/plausible?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8674" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:02:23.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, you can download the images from the pictoral key to the tarot &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sacred-texts.com/tarot/pkt/index.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  I'm creating a deck, the Evolutionary Options Tarot which is being released into the creative commons.  That means copyright &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quickcardreading.com/free-tarot-card-images/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;free tarot card images&lt;/a&gt;!  Have at it, and I'd appreciate any feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T17:02:23.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11321" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:05:13.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An attacking creature is one that was declared as an attacker earlier in the current combat phase, or a creature placed &amp;quot;on the battlefield attacking&amp;quot; in the current combat phase (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geist%20of%20Saint%20Traft&quot;&gt;Geist of Saint Traft&lt;/a&gt;'s angel).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you attack with a 3/3 and it's blocked by a 4/4. You could discard a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scab-Clan%20Charger&quot;&gt;Scab-Clan Charger&lt;/a&gt; from your hand to make your 3/3 a 5/7 until the end of the turn. It would survive, and the 4/4 would die (instead of the other way around).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2013-03-05T22:49:48.313" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T22:49:48.313" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11321" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:12:52.920" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This probably has the simple answer of &quot;any creature that is attacking can be a target attacking creature as long as it is targetable,&quot; but I'll expand on that below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Magic Comprehensive Rules, Rule 508 explains attacking creatures. It's pretty long, so rather than posting all of 508, here is the relevant part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1. First, the active player declares attackers. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. &lt;strong&gt;To&#xA;  declare attackers, the active player follows the steps below, in order.&lt;/strong&gt; If at any point during the&#xA;  declaration of attackers, the active player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the&#xA;  declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717,&#xA;  “Handling Illegal Actions”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1a The active player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will attack. The&#xA;  chosen creatures must be untapped, and each one must either have haste or have been controlled&#xA;  by the active player continuously since the turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After checking for restrictions and requirements that may prevent creatures from attacking, the rule continues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1j &lt;strong&gt;Each chosen creature still controlled by the active player becomes an attacking creature.&lt;/strong&gt; It&#xA;  remains an attacking creature until it’s removed from combat or the combat phase ends,&#xA;  whichever comes first. See rule 506.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So creatures become attacking creatures when the steps in 508 have been completed. More often than not, there won't be requirements or restrictions that limit your ability to attack, except for summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the card refers to &quot;target attacking creature,&quot; it is referring to a creature that is an attacking creature that can be targeted. This ability can be used for one target creature. Rule 601 lays this out (I've emphasized the important parts):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2c &lt;strong&gt;The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each&#xA;  target the spell requires.&lt;/strong&gt; A spell may require some targets only if an alternative or additional&#xA;  cost (such as a buyback or kicker cost), or a particular mode, was chosen for it; otherwise, the&#xA;  spell is cast as though it did not require those targets. If the spell has a variable number of&#xA;  targets, the player announces how many targets he or she will choose before he or she&#xA;  announces those targets. &lt;strong&gt;The same target can’t be chosen multiple times for any one instance of&#xA;  the word “target” on the spell.&lt;/strong&gt; However, if the spell uses the word “target” in multiple places,&#xA;  the same object, player, or zone can be chosen once for each instance of the word “target” (as&#xA;  long as it fits the targeting criteria). If any effects say that an object or player must be chosen as&#xA;  a target, the player chooses targets so that he or she obeys the maximum possible number of&#xA;  such effects without violating any rules or effects that say that an object or player can’t be&#xA;  chosen as a target. &lt;strong&gt;The chosen players, objects, and/or zones each become a target of that spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  (Any abilities that trigger when those players, objects, and/or zones become the target of a spell&#xA;  trigger at this point; they’ll wait to be put on the stack until the spell has finished being cast.)&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Example: If a spell says “Tap two target creatures,” then the same creature can’t be&#xA;  chosen twice; the spell requires two different legal targets. A spell that says “Destroy&#xA;  target artifact and target land,” however, can target the same artifact land twice&#xA;  because it uses the word “target” in multiple places.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the simply version of all this is that &quot;target attacking creature&quot; is a creature that has become an attacking creature and can be the target of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T17:12:52.920" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11322" CreationDate="2013-03-05T17:39:06.787" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question! Unfortunately it's not possible to easily reconstruct the complete game from the limited information available in the movie. Fortunately for us, this has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com/blog/SFN/sherlock-holmesa-game-of-shadows&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;investigated in detail&lt;/a&gt; at chess.com, where they have done an awesome job of reconstructing the opening and ending from the movie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game played in the movie is based on the historical grandmaster game, &lt;em&gt;Bent Larsen vs Tigran Petrosian&lt;/em&gt;, 1966 (Santa Monica). Both the opening move sequence and the ending have been changed somewhat to make it a little bit more exciting to watch. You can play through this original game in the linked article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won't include the board for the final position here since until we have &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/q/978/50&quot;&gt;better chess rendering support&lt;/a&gt;, it is better displayed on the linked website. You can click through the moves and see how it all unfolds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author of the blog post also emailed the movie's technical director, and got some additional information, including the historical background, which he used to refine his reconstruction of the game's opening and ending:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I emailed the technical advisor Adam Raoof during the chess scene and Qh6 and Kh1 wasn't in the movie but are the correct moves.(I presumed it cause it was the only possible move with queen cause of later Qxb2 and of course the King could have moved to f1 also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I took a closer look at the chess scene and the opening and you can read the about it in the middle of the blog.They use a different opening in the movie then the Larsen-Petrosian game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adam Raoff told me that he choose the game with Larsen as a tribute to him and because it was one of his favourite tournament books and was played in the year of his birth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Holmes was gonna play white in the original script but soon after they decided on this line the director changed the script so that Holmes was gonna have the black pieces so they reversed the position and lost a move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adam added the line 'discovered check and, incidentally, mate', which made it to the film and which Robert Downey Junior thought was  &quot;&amp;amp;&amp;amp;**ing awesome&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:45:47.567" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T18:20:30.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2013-03-05T19:34:21.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, out of print CCG's have very little value, except if you have a lot and can find someone that wants to buy the whole collection so they can play the game with just what you provide. There is almost no market for single cards for any CCG that isn't played by a lot of people at the current time, so there's no reason for anyone to keep track of prices to sell them individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, no, there are no recent sources for ST:TCG card prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T19:34:21.097" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11322" CreationDate="2013-03-05T20:14:27.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you asking if blindfolded chess matches exist? Yes, they do. I just read about one in the most recent copy of Wired magazine, actually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/playbook/2013/02/ff-grand-master-susan-polgar-chess/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wired.com/playbook/2013/02/ff-grand-master-susan-polgar-chess/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Robson is up first. He sits across from one of the volunteers, Masoud&#xA;  Assali, a public-safety officer at Webster. To level the playing field&#xA;  somewhat, Robson removes his glasses so a cream-colored blindfold can&#xA;  be tied over his eyes. He’ll have to remember the position of all the&#xA;  pieces as the game progresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“c5,” Robson says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He is playing black. Truong picks up a black pawn and moves it two&#xA;  spaces forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assali thinks for a few seconds. Then he reaches out and moves a white&#xA;  knight. Truong calls out a letter and a number that tells Robson how&#xA;  his opponent moved—universal chess notation. Robson doesn’t hesitate.&#xA;  “d6,” he says. Truong advances another black pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It goes on like this for several minutes: Assali taking his time,&#xA;  Robson calling out moves almost immediately. White pawns are captured;&#xA;  black advances. Robson soon encircles his opponent’s king. Assali nods&#xA;  with a gracious smile: checkmate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5002" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T20:14:27.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12581" CreationDate="2013-03-05T20:39:09.950" Score="16" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;In lightning chess matches (matches with time controls of 3 minutes or less on each side), some players play with the rule of &quot;king sniping&quot; - that is, to save time, if the opponent played a move that left his king in check, the other player can simply capture it (thereby winning the game) rather than forcing the opponent to retract his move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with the rule that the king cannot castle through check (cannot move two spaces if the space between the origin and destination is attacked by an opposing piece), the problem arises of what the appropriate way is to capture the king if this actually happens in a lightning match, as the king is not in a position of check either before or after the opponent's turn. Simply taking the king away might confuse the player because the other piece will have made a technically illegal move, but moving to the square that the king castled through (which amounts to a sort of &quot;en passant&quot; capture, capturing a piece/pawn that moved two squares in a special case as if it had only moved one square) captures the rook instead of the king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any convention for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T21:01:36.050" Title="What is the appropriate way to snipe a king that castles through check?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11330" CreationDate="2013-03-05T22:37:19.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the en passant method is the way to go.  There's no conventions for this that I know of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5004" LastActivityDate="2013-03-05T22:37:19.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-05T22:52:34.680" Score="5" ViewCount="5279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=True%20Believer&quot;&gt;True Believer&lt;/a&gt; out which gives me shroud. My opponent has an enchantment that says that each player must sacrifice whenever he sacrifices a card. Does the enchantment target me, thus allowing me to avoid the effect, or does the enchantment still have its effect despite me having shroud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5005" LastEditorUserId="5354" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T23:29:52.860" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T07:58:18.010" Title="Do cards that say &quot;Each player...&quot; still affect players with Shroud?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-10-28T02:11:44.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2013-03-05T23:09:29.643" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Shroud&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;This permanent or player can't be the target of spells or abilities.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the ability specifically uses the word &lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt;, it is not affected by &lt;em&gt;shroud&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure which enchantment you are talking about, but if it says &lt;em&gt;each player&lt;/em&gt;, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Pact&quot;&gt;Grave Pact&lt;/a&gt;, then it is not affected by shroud. If it says &lt;em&gt;target opponent&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;target player&lt;/em&gt;, then it is affected by shroud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is a subtype of Enchantment, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;subtype=+%5B%22Curse%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Curse&lt;/a&gt;, which have the line &lt;em&gt;Enchant Player&lt;/em&gt;. These Enchantment Aura spells do target a player when they are on the stack, so they are affected by &lt;em&gt;shroud&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T16:52:50.387" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T16:52:50.387" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11332" CreationDate="2013-03-05T23:25:34.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrue%20Believer%5d&quot;&gt;True Believer&lt;/a&gt; out, you have shroud. You cannot be the target of spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrave%20Pact%5d&quot;&gt;Grave Pact&lt;/a&gt; comes along, you still must sacrifice, because you are not a target. As an analogy, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMist%20Leopard%5d&quot;&gt;Mist Leopard&lt;/a&gt; still dies to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDay%20of%20Judgment%5d&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCurse%20of%20Bloodletting%5d&quot;&gt;Curse of Bloodletting&lt;/a&gt; comes along, you're safe because the Aura targets you by definition (CR303.4a), but you are an illegal target. You're also safe from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and its ilk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T07:58:18.010" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T07:58:18.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11310" CreationDate="2013-03-06T03:55:50.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the cubes, dump them out, in approximately the right spots; slide most of them over to the left, then make sure the 3 right-most cubes for each of tech/resources/money are in the right spots. Let people sort the rest when it's not their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I'd love to have boards that had recesses for all of the cubes/discs so they moved around less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T03:55:50.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11336" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T03:56:53.210" Score="7" ViewCount="10249" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Hearts, we just want to avoid getting any heart card or the Queen of Spades. But if we can get all 14 cards, we shoot the moon and everybody else gets 26 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given a fair shuffle, what's the chance that we can actually get a shot to the moon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There must be some probability, because if in a draw, we get 1 Ace of Clubs, and the hearts from 3 through Ace, we know there is no possible configuration where we'll ever NOT shoot the moon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas, if we get ALL the diamonds, we are doomed to &quot;lose&quot; every hand, because all our cards will always be different in suit from the first card. There is no possible configuration where we can shoot the moon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nobody can give me a number, what about a process of getting to this number? I imagine it has something to do with expected values, but I'm not very sure. But, it is an interesting question. I've managed to play a &quot;perfect&quot; game where I never took a single point, and some games where I've shot the moon once or twice, but never a game where I shot the moon 4 times in a row to win. Is this poor strategy, or a fault of bad luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4995" LastEditorUserId="4995" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T04:04:25.273" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T19:42:47.763" Title="What are the chances of shooting the moon in Hearts?" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-05-10T19:54:29.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11320" CreationDate="2013-03-06T09:33:13.110" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: &lt;em&gt;I am not a lawyer&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://answers.onstartups.com/a/18198&quot;&gt;This answer* on startups.SE&lt;/a&gt; suggests (though doesn't completely confirm) that the mechanisms of a board game cannot be patented (which I suppose explains why we have so many deck-builders, for instance), but you may be at risk of copyright infringement if you go so far as to copy graphics, trademarked characters or names and copy used in the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes without saying that since you refer to a &quot;popular fantasy universe&quot;, you may have more to worry about from them than from Steve Jackson if you intend to use existing characters etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that, &lt;strong&gt;I think that using a mechanism from another game is acceptable&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The linked question is about an electronic adaptation of a board game, but I believe the answer still applies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T09:33:13.110" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2013-03-06T17:43:56.907" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible to calculate which hands can Shoot the Moon with 100% probability, but it's not going to be easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 635,013,559,600 different starting hands of 13 cards from a 52 card deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that if we are dealt all 13 cards of one suit, there's 4 hands out of  635,013,559,600 that will shoot the moon ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we have 12 cards of one suit and one ace in another suit, there are 13 different ways to get 12 cards of one suit, times 3 different other ace cards in other suits, times 4 different suits so: 13*3*4 = 156 winning hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if we have an ace and king of the other suit and the rest one suit, it's also a winning hand — wait it has to be an Ace-King in the long suit too because we can't risk an opponent having a king plus another card in our long suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, this is getting difficult soon. Thankfully, Bridge players have already figured this out for us. :) They have a concept called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Losing-Trick_Count&quot;&gt;Losing-Trick Count&lt;/a&gt;, a method of hand evaluation for counting the number of losing tricks held by a partnership. To &quot;shoot the moon&quot; we need a Losing-Trick Count of Zero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_probabilities#Probability_of_Losing-Trick_Counts&quot;&gt;this table&lt;/a&gt; I found on Wikipedia, there are 4,245,032 hands with a losing trick count of zero. As a check I summed up the number of hands in that table and it equals 635,013,559,600 exactly. Whew! Sounds right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, your probability of Shooting the Moon with 100% accuracy is at a bare minimum .000668% percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HOWEVER… Trick points are scored differently in Hearts as compared to Bridge. You can lose tricks but still take all the hearts and the queen of spades. So Ace-King of Spades + AKQJT98 of Hearts plus 6 other losers is a winning hand. I expect about half of the 90,206,044 hands with a LTC of 1 are &lt;em&gt;shoot the moon winners&lt;/em&gt; since if the losing trick is a club or diamond, at that point it doesn't matter. (Presuming the winning tricks have forced the Queen and hearts. Things get murky.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I expect the number of perfect &lt;em&gt;shoot the moon&lt;/em&gt; hands is significantly more than the .000668% percent of Bridge hands that are perfect. You can add at least .0071%, and then a bit more as you start chipping away at those losing tricks that no longer matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brain is starting to hurt now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I'll go lie down and hopefully this gives you an idea of how to start to get the answer. It's important to realize that the reason &lt;em&gt;shooting the moon&lt;/em&gt; isn't as rare as you'd expect is because even a marginal hand has a decent chance of shooting the moon, for your opponents don't have perfect knowledge. If an opponent has a king-queen in one suit and a king-10 in the other, which king do they keep to stop your attempt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, at first most opponents don't expect players to go for the moon, and are trying to get rid of trick taking cards when they can. That's what makes Hearts so interesting in my view, the psychology of being wary of those greedy moon targetters. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T17:51:28.800" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T17:51:28.800" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8336" CreationDate="2013-03-06T18:30:59.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally took the time to ask directly on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?33899-Evil-Baby-Orphanage-Rules&amp;amp;p=513779#post513779&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wyrd Games forums&lt;/a&gt; and someone from Wyrd responded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, you may discard a bad toy to make any baby in play (including your opponent's babies) take unsupervised actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes, bad toys can be used to activate an opponent's Evil Baby's Unsupervised Action on your own Activity Step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T18:30:59.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T19:29:05.173" Score="1" ViewCount="2218" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a card called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Calciform%20Pools&quot;&gt;Calciform Pools&lt;/a&gt;. It uses something called a storage counter. What is it and how do you use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card Text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap: Add {1} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}, Tap: Put a storage counter on Calciform Pools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}, Remove X storage counters from Calciform Pools: Add X mana in any combination of {w} and/or {B} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4893" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T19:48:30.937" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T15:22:43.463" Title="what is a storage counter on a land card and how do you use it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11340" CreationDate="2013-03-06T19:40:55.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well it's exactly like it said, you can use the pool to store mana for future purpose. Can be usefull if you are planning to play a card that needs a lot of {W} or {B} mana. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the labelling of storage counter instead of charge counter is to prevent the use of the Pool in a combo with the Energy Chamber card that could have enable putting additonnal counter on the pool for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastEditorUserId="4837" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T19:49:33.343" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T19:49:33.343" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11340" CreationDate="2013-03-06T20:00:41.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most counters in MTG don't do anything by themselves&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Their function is defined by the text of various cards which use them or place them&lt;/strong&gt;. The names of the counters are a bit like creature types &amp;mdash; they don't have any stand-alone rules significance but cards interact with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exceptions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;+X/+Y&quot; counters (normally +1/+1 and -1/-1, but some really old cards have other kinds), which modify a creature's power and toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poison counters: a player who has ten or more poison counters loses the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Calciform Pools, the  &quot;storage counters&quot; are there to be used for its second and third ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}, Tap: Put a storage counter on Calciform Pools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lets you slowly &quot;charge up&quot; the land. If you have untapped mana on your opponents end step, you can spend some of it to put a storage counter on the Pools. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}, Remove X storage counters from Calciform Pools: Add X mana in any combination of {w} and/or {B} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lets you &quot;release&quot; all of the mana you've stored up. The extra cost of 1 colorless is there to encourage you to take out a bunch of mana all at once. Note that you don't have to tap pools to activate this ability, so you can use Pools' first mana ability to pay the 1 colorless if you want to. You can also activate this ability multiple times per turn if you have 1 mana floating around to pay for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T20:34:24.010" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T20:34:24.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11348" CreationDate="2013-03-06T20:54:16.233" Score="15" ViewCount="3390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im a big fan of the &lt;strong&gt;Magic the Gathering&lt;/strong&gt; trading card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And with all these new cards coming in, I was wondering how the cards were balanced, and manacost calculated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im thinking there must be a list of abilities, with matching mana modifiers, and some formula in which to calculate them. I hardly feel that they just guess or take it on the feels when coming up with the cards cost and ability limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is such a formula public ? I have been looking around but with not much luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason im asking is that I would like to know the correct mana cost, if I were to make some custom cards myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:07:37.237" Title="Looking for the &quot;magic'al&quot; formula" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|balance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11343" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:07:13.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There does seem to be a pattern to how they balance the cards and their costs(&quot;A 1/1 creature should cost 1 or 2, and abilities such as first strike or haste might add 1 to that cost&quot; as a baseline and then scaled up for more powerful cards), and most players have a pretty good eye for whether something is good for its cost or not. But I'm not so certain there is an exact formula per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how they do it at Wizards, but recently the Onyx Path Publishing people shared a piece of insight on the subject: When asked directly about it, the developers of Vampire: the Requiem stated that they didn't follow a formula for inter-balancing of individual powers[1], but that they looked at the things they wanted to do with the abilities, and then decided on what a player would be ready to do in order to use that ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I think gefühl and lots &lt;em&gt;and lots&lt;/em&gt; of playtesting and rebalancing is your best option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 = &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.white-wolf.com/default.aspx?g=posts&amp;amp;m=1581039#post1581039&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.white-wolf.com/default.aspx?g=posts&amp;amp;m=1581039#post1581039&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5010" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T21:07:13.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11343" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:22:24.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I concur that there is, indeed cannot be, a hard-and-fast formula for translating a new card to a mana cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that &lt;em&gt;different blocks have different power levels&lt;/em&gt;.  A card that may have been severely overpowered in one environment is average in a different one.  A card that may have been costed 1R in last year's block may become 2R in development this time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that Magic is an endless game of power creep and power rebalancing.  Generally speaking cards have gotten better at similar mana costs over time, and may well continue to do so, because consumers don't like to feel ripped off by this year's cards compared to last year's cards (hello, &lt;em&gt;Homelands&lt;/em&gt;).  I'm not sure we'll ever reach the stage where every card is costed &quot;perfectly&quot;, because Wizards will always try to sneak undercosted cards in, to make players feel happy about their card evaluation abilities.  See also the crop of overcosted cards that make an appearance in every set, for similar but opposite reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, there are some pretty good rules for costing that you can start to assimilate through experience.  White will always get a creature costing W that, by hook or by crook, can attack for 2 on the second turn.  Green will always get a 5/5 for 4G or thereabouts.  A red burn spell that deals 3 to a creature or player will tend to weigh in at 1R, unless Wizards are pushing Lightning Bolt this year.  A black terror variant, likewise, will usually cost 1B.  Once you get to about 8 mana you can just go crazy, it doesn't really matter any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd advise just playing a lot and getting a feel.  And then playtesting with your new cards and seeing if they feel busted in the new environment you've created.  As long as they're not too absurdly off the ordinary curve, it will depend a lot on what other cards and strategies are available in the environment they find themselves in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T21:22:24.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:29:26.080" Score="2" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fathom%20Mage&quot;&gt;Fathom Mage&lt;/a&gt; and played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; onto it would the &amp;quot;gain +3/+3&amp;quot; activate the ability to draw a card when a counter is added, or are stat improvements and counters completely separate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5012" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-06T22:05:07.323" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T00:46:29.297" Title="Does gaining +x/+x trigger &quot;when counters are added&quot; abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:40:33.613" Score="1" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am teaching the game to a ton of new people Thursday. I was going to be playing with only 3 others and planned to join in myself, but now that we're up to 8 players including me, I figured the game would be more fun if I keep things moving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result I've decided to play the role of ARKHAM MASTER! Stay out of the game as a player and act as rules guardian, referee for things 1st player normally resolves, reader of cards, and general knowledge base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My post is two fold: &lt;strong&gt;How can I keep the game running smoothly?&lt;/strong&gt; With only one experienced investigator (has played a single game a month ago) still in the group. We have either 4.5 hours or if we're lucky, 6 hours to play the game in, and I think we all know that even with an experienced group 6 hours can be too short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Vanilla, and they're up against Yig, so as a light sleeper, that should make it easier. I'm incorporating Epic Battle and I'm also playing a house rule where the Ancient one awakens at Current Doom - Seals in Play even on a Seal or a Gate Close Victory to assure an Epic Ending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another thing I wanted to ask was on teaching.&lt;/strong&gt; Arkham has a lot of rules, is there a new player cheat sheet or anything? If not what rules would you say a player MUST know if an Arkham Manager is in the game? My first thoughts are skills, skill checks, phases, derived checks such as combat and horror, movement points, clues, closing, sealing, and otherworlds. Also the win/lose conditions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other half of my post would be this: &lt;strong&gt;For those that have played games like Descent: Journeys in the Dark. I thought it might be fun (NOT FOR THURSDAY) to play the role of the Herald, actively orchestrating the forces of the Mythos to pave the way for the Ancient One's awakening.&lt;/strong&gt; Obviously you'd have to be very careful about what rules you alter as the &quot;Herald&quot; to not totally break the game in favor of the Mythos. Has anyone tried this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5013" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T23:18:49.920" Title="Playing the Role of an Arkham Master in Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-03-06T23:51:56.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11343" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:51:38.597" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hardly feel that they just guess or take it on the feels when coming up with the cards cost and ability limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, they kinda do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana cost depends on several factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How common the card's ability is in the color. Flight for example, is generally least expensive in Blue, White is slightly more expensive, and red/black slightly more, and green even more and quite rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rarity of the card. What makes Mythic Rare cards better isn't just how uncommon the abilities are, but how undercosted the abilities are. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Huntmaster%20of%20the%20Fell&quot;&gt;Huntmaster of the Fell&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geist%20of%20Saint%20Traft&quot;&gt;Geist of Saint Traft&lt;/a&gt;. An uncommon flyer might be slightly undercosted compared to a common flyer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The current metagame. Back in the day, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; was a mere two blue mana. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; did 3 damage for 1 red mana. Control decks ran rampant, creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hill%20Giant&quot;&gt;Hill Giant&lt;/a&gt; were expensive for what you got. Over time, Wizards wanted the Combat Phase to matter more often, so hard counters began to get more expensive, and creature costing got cheaper.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The set balance. If Wizards want to deemphasize removal in limited in a set, they might make it more expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and most of all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playtesting. Wizards does a lot of playtesting to determine which costs are appropriate in the environment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's any way to come up with a strict formula and the parameters change over time. Used to be you could only get a 2/2 vanilla creature with a converted mana cost of 2 (with one mana being generic) in green. (Hello &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt;) Then white got a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glory%20Seeker&quot;&gt;Glory Seeker&lt;/a&gt;. Recently Black has joined the club with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Walking%20Corpse&quot;&gt;Walking Corpse&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gutter%20Skulk&quot;&gt;Gutter Skulk&lt;/a&gt;. Red and Blue still require two colored mana in the cost or drawbacks to get 2/2 for CMC 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yeah they do just cost what &amp;quot;feels right&amp;quot; then adjust after playtesting. Sometimes they get it wrong, in my opinion, compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archaeomancer&quot;&gt;Archaeomancer&lt;/a&gt; — absurd extra value at half the cost, even at rare. How &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Merfolk%20of%20the%20Depths&quot;&gt;Merfolk of the Depths&lt;/a&gt; ended up with a CMC of 6 for 4/2 Flash is equally baffling. Twice as big as a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shambleshark&quot;&gt;Shambleshark&lt;/a&gt; at three times the price??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T00:30:06.640" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T00:30:06.640" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2013-03-06T21:53:09.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Or are stat improves and counter completely separate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is correct, unless it says counter, it is not referring to physical counters on the card itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally note the duration included on Giant Growth, while counters do not have a duration (or if they do they have a separate wording to remove them explicitly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T21:53:09.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2013-03-06T22:11:20.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A counter is a physical marker on a card that gives an effect while it's in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant Growth is a spell that when it resolves, gives a temporary effect until a specified time (i.e. end of turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because both give a boost to power and toughness in this case, doesn't mean that both are the same thing.  As you say, both give stat improvements, but that does not imply that all stat improvements are of an identical and interchangeable type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T22:11:20.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T22:27:24.670" Score="1" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing iPad edition. Fifth Legendary Asia achievement says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Asia Passport: Win all achievements for the Legendary Asia map.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought it means that I have to win first four achievements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason I won it in the middle of the next game after winning Mountain Hermit. At that point I already had Double Trouble, but not two others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas what happened?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5003" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-15T17:02:32.890" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T17:02:32.890" Title="Why did I win &quot;Asia Passport&quot; achievement early?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|online|ticket-to-ride-asia|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-11-09T22:54:32.337" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T23:09:27.413" Score="5" ViewCount="1102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am teaching the game to a ton of new people this week. I was going to be playing with only 3 others and planned to join in myself, but now that we're up to 8 players including me, I figured the game would be more fun if I keep things moving as a non-player Arkham Master. Staying out of the game as a player and act as rules guardian, referee for things 1st player normally resolves, reader of cards, and general knowledge base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern here is on teaching the game quickly without making the players feel like I'm leaving out important decision making details.  Arkham has a lot of rules, is there a new player cheat sheet or anything? If not what rules would you say a player MUST know if an experienced player is moderating the game? My intuition says to explain skills sliders, skill checks, phases, derived checks such as combat and horror, movement points, clues, closing, sealing, and otherworlds and the win/lose conditions for the game.  Has anyone taken the time to teach new players AH more than a few times?  What process do you use to explain the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5013" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T20:45:36.857" Title="Teaching Arkham Horror to new players" Tags="|arkham-horror|teaching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11347" CreationDate="2013-03-06T23:18:49.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find a good bit of info addressing your questions through ones already on the site: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the game running smoothly:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8851/how-can-we-play-a-shorter-but-satisfying-game-of-arkham-horror&quot;&gt;How can we play a shorter but satisfying game of Arkham Horror?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Quick&quot; reference sheet:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5415/what-do-you-recommend-putting-in-an-arkham-horror-quick-reference-sheet&quot;&gt;What do you recommend putting in an Arkham Horror quick reference sheet?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On playing a 'Herald':&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4145/what-can-i-do-to-ensure-that-my-friends-first-game-of-arkham-horror-with-me-is&quot;&gt;What can I do to ensure that my friends&amp;#39; first game of Arkham Horror with me is as awesome as possible?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But roughly, keeping people on task helps the game speed greatly. Having people know a general idea of where they'll want to move before their turn starts makes movement phase go much faster. It also isn't necessary all the time to make everyone wait for combat. If the outcome of the fight can't affect them, let them take their turn. Taking control of reading encounter cards for people helps trim down on the back-and-forth that can happen when the players don't know where each other are on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before playing, the players should know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;rough&lt;/em&gt; detail of the four phases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upkeep: Wiggle sliders &amp;amp; refresh cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Movement: Move up to your speed. Stop at monsters &amp;amp; fight if necessary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Encounter: If you're in a spot with a picture, get a card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mythos: A new gate &amp;amp; monsters show up. Too many gates and you lose&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skill checks: Number on the relevant stat + possible helpful items you have - number in the (). Get one success&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat: Will check at the blue # penalty. Get one success. Then fight checks at the red # penalty. Weapons help. Need blood drops # of successes for combat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gate closing: Go to a gate token, have a couple encounters where the token takes you, come back &amp;amp; make a fight/lore check. Repeat to win&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clues: Can spend 1 clue to roll 1 more die. Repeat as desired. Also you need 5 to make sure a gate never comes back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If find they don't need to know specifically how many monsters can be on the board, how many can go in the outskirts, &amp;amp; how many gates before losing. 8 players are going to need to be closing gates from the very beginning regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 'Herald' play I haven't done much more than drawing a few mythos cards and picking which one takes effect, drawing more monsters than necessary and choosing where they get placed, and not reading players the results of choices/success/failures from encounter cards before the result is decided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-03-06T23:18:49.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-06T23:23:52.430" Score="4" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am teaching the game to a ton of new people this week. I was going to be playing with only 3 others and planned to join in myself, but now that we're up to 8 players including me, I figured the game would be more fun if I keep things moving as a non-player Arkham Master. Staying out of the game as a player and act as rules guardian, referee for things 1st player normally resolves, reader of cards, and general knowledge base. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I keep the game running smoothly? With only one experienced investigator (has played a single game a month ago) still in the group. We have either 4.5 hours or if we're lucky, 6 hours to play the game in, and I think we all know that even with an experienced group 6 hours can be too short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Vanilla, and they're up against Yig, so as a light sleeper, that should make it easier.  What techniques, homerules, and other adjustments have you developed to counter game-length creep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5013" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T05:01:20.953" Title="Ensuring a game of Arkham Horror runs quickly even with new players" Tags="|arkham-horror|play-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-03-07T16:07:20.240" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11379" CreationDate="2013-03-06T23:46:51.410" Score="2" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those that have played games like Descent: Journeys in the Dark where an Overlord player is pitted against a heroic party, actively working against the players and laying down traps and other such machinations to keep the game interesting, I thought it might be fun to play the role of the Herald, actively orchestrating the forces of the Mythos to pave the way for the Ancient One's awakening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously you'd have to be very careful about what rules you alter as the &quot;Herald&quot; to not totally break the game in favor of the Mythos. Has anyone tried this before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5013" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T16:10:54.897" Title="Playing Arkham Horror in a counter-players role as the Herald of the Ancient one or something similar?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-03-11T20:53:30.790" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11346" CreationDate="2013-03-06T23:52:58.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fathom%20Mage&quot;&gt;Fathom Mage&lt;/a&gt; checks for counters, and Giant Growth does not give counters. If it gave counters, it would say it gave counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a term defined by the rules (e.g. &amp;quot;counter&amp;quot;) is used, uses of that word only refer to that definition. &amp;quot;Attacked&amp;quot; does not refer to arbitrary offensive actions, &amp;quot;targetted&amp;quot; does not refer to objects affected by arbitrary spells, and &amp;quot;counter&amp;quot; does not refer to arbitrary things that modify power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; creates a continuous effect that modifies a creature's power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlegrowth&quot;&gt;Battlegrowth&lt;/a&gt; puts a counter that modifies a creature's power and toughness on a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fathom Mage's ability would only be triggered by the effect of the second spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T00:46:29.297" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T00:46:29.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7657" CreationDate="2013-03-07T02:04:50.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shuck-shuck is when the US player uses a fleet of transports to move land units (mostly infantry) from Eastern Canada (and Western C, in most rule variations) to Europe, usually Finland. The idea is to get a constant stream of US land units into Europe where they can fortify Karelia, shift to defend Russia, launch minimal-force attacks into Ukraine, or whatever is needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few turns, US can have 5 trans, and build say, 8 inf, 1 arm per turn to load them. These can be spread between East US and West US however the player wants (again, assuming rules allow pickup from W Canada). On the non-com phase, move the land units to East or West Canada respectively. On the next turn, these units will be picked up by transports in the UK SZ, from E Canada SZ, and returned to the UK SZ where they can be unloaded in Finland, or alternatively in WE, if an attack is viable. Another alternative is to land in Algeria, or Spain, depending on strategy, from the Spain SZ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the poster above accurately pointed out where the term comes from (this guy Don, who wrote some essay about A&amp;amp;A strategy - &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&lt;/a&gt;). He said the process makes the sound &quot;shuck shuck&quot;, whatever that means. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5015" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T02:04:50.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11784" CreationDate="2013-03-07T02:21:54.747" Score="5" ViewCount="748" Body="&lt;p&gt;In backgammon, substantial value is placed on making consecutive points in your home board. So much so, that some players would use say, an opening 6-2 to place a lone, exposed, man on the five point, slotting it, and hoping to cover it on the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you got an opening 3-1 and &quot;made&quot; your five point. Would you then slot the four point with a 6-3 or 5-4, the way one might have slotted the five point with a 6-2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to play an early 5-3 to the three point, because it increases the value of slots to the five and four points. Would many authorities recommend this play? Would they use 5-3 to slot the five point (like a 6-2)? Or would they play &quot;safe&quot; by taking two builders from the midpoint and putting them on the eight and ten points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T12:36:56.937" Title="When would you &quot;slot&quot; points in backgammon?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2830" CreationDate="2013-03-07T02:34:22.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well in a 4 player game there is no real incentive for anyone to hide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sheriff can kill anyone since the worse case is killing the renegade first who is at best is only a temporary team mate. Anyway you look at it they will need to kill all other players anyway. But if the sheriff knows who the renegade is they might just ignore them to focus on the outlaws so that they have a little more help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both outlaws just need to focus on the Sheriff as there is no real incentive to kill the renegade since it takes away from damage they can be doing to the sheriff. Now if they can't do anything to the sheriff then it might make more sense for them to work on the renegade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the renegade you need to deal with the fact that both outlaws will be wanting to kill the sheriff and the sheriff will probably want to focus on killing the outlaws first as there is more incentive to kill them first (3 cards and they only have the goal to kill the sheriff). If the renegade can come out early and get the sheriff to focus on the outlaws then it is easier to build up some strength while killing both outlaws and leaving the sheriff in a weakened state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly I think its in the best interest of both the renegade and the sheriff for the renegade to play a little more on the deputy side then they would in a bigger game as it can help the sheriff survive both outlaws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T02:34:22.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11370" CreationDate="2013-03-07T02:51:27.677" Score="2" ViewCount="1990" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Don Bell having 4 bullets and the ability to get an extra turn after the first (on a draw of a heart or diamond), he can become an overpowered character very quickly. He is likely to get 1 more card and shoot one more bang then Lucky Duke, who can draw a third card on a heart or diamond, and always has a shot at a second turn, unlike Vendetta which is one round only and only for hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this my normal group doesn't play with him because he is deemed unbalanced and overpowered. Some house rules that have been suggested have been lowering him to a 3 bullet character and making the extra turn only work on hearts, or leaving him at 4 bullets but needing to sacrifice a life in order to draw for an extra turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering anyone had any ideas on house rules that can make him a more balanced character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T05:55:49.080" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T21:23:39.503" Title="How can we make Don Bell more balanced?" Tags="|house-rules|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11354" CreationDate="2013-03-07T05:01:20.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may sound silly, but in these cases (especially with so many players) the &quot;we came here for kicking monster asses, not for pleasure&quot; attitude should help immediately. Focus is a key word. Make sure those aren't playing at the moment are planning for the next round, it could help the focus effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, I'd try to hint or even say straight up that they need to get themselves up with a strategy; it could be some kind of role separation - who closes the gates? who clears the monsters? Who gets the weapons and distributes them? - it could be geography separation, etc. But it'll keep the players focused on what they should do every turn instead of re-strategizing everything every time a monster pops up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T05:01:20.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7872" CreationDate="2013-03-07T05:05:33.990" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;NO THE equipment does NOT stay attached to the creature when it gets mind controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look up the rulings for mind control.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=238572&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5016" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T05:05:33.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-07T07:51:38.077" Score="6" ViewCount="2666" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is regarding the fortresses. If they each pay +1 VC for each turn that they are on the map and your race is active, then they become quite powerful because the VC will be building exponentially. Is this the case, or do they only each pay one VC on the turn that they are placed and then are only good as a defensive bonus for there on out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5017" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T16:29:08.453" Title="In Smallworld, do Fortresses pay the +1 VC only on the turn they are placed, or do they each pay for every turn that the race is active?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11364" CreationDate="2013-03-07T10:27:07.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They work at the end of each your turn (not only when they are placed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it might by ambiguous in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smallworld rules&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fortified&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once per turn, as long as your Fortified Race&#xA;is active, you may place 1 Fortress in a&#xA;Region you occupy. The Fortress is worth 1&#xA;bonus Victory coin at turn's end, unless you&#xA;are In Decline. The Fortress also augments your Region's&#xA;defense by 1 (just as if you had an additional Race token&#xA;stationed there), even if you are In Decline.&#xA;Remove the Fortress if you abandon the Region&#xA;or when an enemy conquers it. There can only&#xA;ever be a maximum of 1 Fortress per Region,&#xA;and a maximum of 6 Fortresses on the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everywhere else, symbol +1 VC on a land or token (such as Fortress) says that it works each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it were only about the end of the current turn, then the sentence &lt;em&gt;at turn's end, unless you are In Decline&lt;/em&gt; wouldn't make sense (as you cannot place anything when you are in decline, unless you are Stout, but you cannot be Stout and Fortified at the same time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3609" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T14:44:15.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11368" CreationDate="2013-03-07T15:13:11.223" Score="8" ViewCount="6979" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt; has a mana fixing ability, but it doesn't say you can tap it for mana. Other non-basic lands have a mana ability listed on the card. Should I assume that Evolving Winds cannot be tapped for mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic lands don't have mana tapping abilities listed, but are assumed you can tap them for mana of the color they represent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="4866" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T06:28:09.930" LastActivityDate="2018-07-18T12:16:27.873" Title="Can non basic lands be tapped for colorless mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11376" CreationDate="2013-03-07T15:20:34.840" Score="6" ViewCount="14792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a 5/5 indestructible creature. An opponent plays a 3 damage spell on this creature. After that spell resolves, the opponent then plays a spell which gives the creature -2/-2 until end of turn. Does the creature die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4866" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:47:44.963" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:47:44.963" Title="Can an indestructible creature die by a combination of damage and -X/-X effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-10-15T14:11:44.433" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11366" CreationDate="2013-03-07T15:20:37.783" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot tap non-basics for mana unless they have an ability that specifically says otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic lands are handled with a special case in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.6 The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the words “basic land type,” it’s referring&#xA;  to one of these subtypes. &lt;strong&gt;A land with a basic land type has an&#xA;  intrinsic ability to produce colored mana&lt;/strong&gt;. (See rule 406, “Mana&#xA;  Abilities.”) The land is treated as if its text box included,&#xA;  “Tap.gif: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,” even if the text box&#xA;  doesn’t actually contain text or the card has no text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is {W}; for Islands, {U}; for Swamps, {B}, for Mountains, {R}, and for Forests, {G}. See rule 107.4a. Also see rule 605, &quot;Mana Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Basic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Basic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:11:12.327" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:11:12.327" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2013-03-07T15:24:57.453" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, he would be a 3/3 marked with 3 damage. This 3 damage would be 'lethal', but since he is indestructible, he is immune to such deaths. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:07:27.963" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:07:27.963" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2013-03-07T15:38:12.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One suggestion I've seen is to not let him draw 2 cards at the beginning of his extra turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this power might for instance let you use a green card immediately after playing it, instead of having to wait for everyone else on the table to take a turn; but it's much less likely to allow the Don Bell player to just run away with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T15:38:12.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11222" CreationDate="2013-03-07T15:40:30.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, it's going to vary on many more factors than the casino, but I think I can sort of answer the question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does this lack of reuse factor into the build quality of the cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I should note that as I started Googling around for an answer to this, it is abundantly clear that there is not a definitive answer on this. This answer will assume you're talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onlinepokercenter.com/plastic-vs-paper-playing-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;plastic playing cards since paper playing cards&lt;/a&gt; have such a short life span that they probably couldn't be resold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There also is a lot of discrepancy on the length of time a casino even uses a pack of cards before retiring them. I have seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://igamingforums.com/iGaming/HowDoesDeckCardsLastUsuallyCasino-Play/vkqjv/post.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;references&lt;/a&gt; that the Bellagio uses a deck of plastic playing cards for poker for 2 months, but this isn't official or even supported. That same page has a user saying they saw on a TV show that cards are used between 2 and 24 hours depending on what game it is and how they are shuffled, a claim that is impossible to check. This probably refers more to games like blackjack, where the house's money is on the line and they'd want to ensure that no money would be lost because players could identify cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best information I could even find relating to casino cards was on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.copagusa.com/node/6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;COPAG Cards website&lt;/a&gt;. In talking about use of their cards in casinos, they say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary use for 100% plastic playing cards in the casino is in the poker room. Since poker is a game where the players handle the cards extensively, plastic cards are preferred due to the durability and additional security that they provide over their paper counterparts. COPAG cards are used in casinos throughout the world and are dealt in many of the finest poker rooms across the United States.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in that same FAQ, there is this question and answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How long will COPAG cards last?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longevity of your COPAG cards differs depending on how they are handled during play. Therefore, we can not give an accurate length of time that they will last. However, 100% plastic playing cards will last significantly longer than paper playing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I'm going to do some fuzzy logic. Given that on the same website they a.) talk about their cards being used for poker in casinos, and b.) they talk about the length their cards will last as if answering anyone that could buy their cards (and you can buy COPAG cards from their website), I would think that &lt;strong&gt;the used cards you buy from a casino are not qualitatively different than the cards you could buy new from a store, except that they've already been used.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure how long a pack of plastic cards normally lasts since this also varies on how much it's used and how rough it's shuffled and myriad other factors. If you knew that, you could guess that any used pack you buy from a casino will have either 1.) months of almost constant play reduced from their life if they were used for poker, or 2.) a much smaller amount of time, potentially only a few hours of play, reduced from their life if they were used in games where the house's money was at stake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figures that just after I post this, I noticed that there are separate tabs for purchasing on the COPAG website for retail and casinos, so some clarification is needed. On the retail purchasing tab, the plastic poker cards are measured at 63mm by 88mm. On the casino tab, the size of plastic poker cards is 63mm by 88mm. They are the same size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I would think there is no qualitative difference between the two for economic reasons. It wouldn't be cost efficient to have separate machines for different qualities of plastic for different cards, but changing the pattern on the back would be pretty simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T15:58:51.587" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11364" CreationDate="2013-03-07T16:29:08.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of each turn where your active race occupies a Fortress (including the turn in which it was placed), you get 1 point for each occupied Fortress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not an exponential point growth. For example, on the third turn you held a Fortress, you do not get 3 points, you just get the standard 1 point each turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="491" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T16:29:08.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11375" CreationDate="2013-03-07T20:31:41.363" Score="4" ViewCount="798" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bohnanza say I have 5 cards during a round.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Another player is in his trading phase and I trade a card with him, I put the traded card on my trading area and then plant it on my field.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm now down to 4 cards so, do I have to take a card from the pile for the one I traded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5020" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-07T21:15:32.427" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T21:03:28.807" Title="Do other players replenish their traded cards after a trading phase in Bohnanza?" Tags="|bohnanza|trading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2013-03-07T20:44:27.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There is no where in the rules to indicate that this would be the case in any situation. The rules clearly state that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The non-active players may only trade/donate cards from their&#xA;  hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this, there are no other actions the non-active players make to process a trade. The rule book mentions in a side note&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;By trading or donating cards from their hands, players get rid of cards they do not want to plant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of trading is to get cards out of your hand, so replacing them with new cards by drawing would be counter-productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T20:44:27.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2013-03-07T20:45:02.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the best of my knowledge, there is no &quot;minimum hand size&quot; rule in Bohnanza.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The active player draws three cards at the end of his round, but it's perfectly possible to start your round with no cards at all in hand!  As demonstrated by this line in the &quot;1. Plant bean cards&quot; section of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the active player has no cards in his hand, he omits this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, you don't draw to replace cards you used in trades, at least not in any variant of Bohnanza I'm familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-07T20:45:02.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11367" CreationDate="2013-03-08T05:09:35.750" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Say I have a 5/5 indestructible creature. An opponent plays a 3 damage spell on this creature. After that spell resolves,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It becomes a 5/5 with 3 damage marked on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you've played DotP where this is shown as 5/2 on the screen, but that's misleading because damage does not reduce toughness. (Damage from a source with Wither or Infect can grant -1/-1 counters which in turn reduce toughness, but that doesn't appear to be what you're asking about.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the opponent then plays a spell which gives the creature -2/-2 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it becomes a 3/3 with 3 damage marked on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the creature die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It has positive toughness, and lethal damage does not destroy indestructible creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:07:07.173" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:07:07.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11378" CreationDate="2013-03-08T12:07:10.073" Score="13" ViewCount="3442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried this?&#xA;Does it break the game?&#xA;Does it make it easier/quicker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a 1 gave no resources to anyone and a 7 still invoked the robber how different a game would this make Settlers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T21:48:45.800" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T18:51:10.957" Title="Playing Settlers of Catan with a D12 instead of 2D6" Tags="|house-rules|catan|dice|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11377" CreationDate="2013-03-08T12:29:32.483" Score="45" Body="&lt;p&gt;Significantly.  The thing about 2d6 is that you've got a range of numbers that have a certain probability of them showing up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're rolling 2d6, your available numbers are 2-12.  You're dropping off the number 1.  Also, you have an escelating scale of percentage probability.  2's and 12's will happen 2.77% of the time (each).  3's and 11's will happen 5.55% of the time.  4's and 10's happen 8.33% of the time.  5's and 9's happen 11.11% of the time.  6's and 8's will happen 13.88% of the time.  And 7's will happen 16.66% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Result    Rolls with a 2d6        ≠  Rolls with a 1d12&#xA;------------------------------------------------------&#xA; 1        (impossible)                1&#xA; 2        1+1                         2&#xA; 3        1+2 2+1                     3 &#xA; 4        1+3 2+2 3+1                 4&#xA; 5        1+4 2+3 3+2 4+1             5 &#xA; 6        1+5 2+4 3+3 4+2 5+1         6&#xA; 7        1+6 2+5 3+4 4+3 5+2 6+1     7&#xA; 8        2+6 3+5 4+4 5+3 6+2         8&#xA; 9        3+6 4+5 5+4 6+3             9&#xA;10        4+6 5+5 6+4                10&#xA;11        5+6 6+5                    11&#xA;12        6+6                        12&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the closer you get to 7, the greater chances you have of something on those hex's from happening.  Because of this, the game has been weighted so that certain places will not show up as often as others.  That's part of the resource management and placement.  It's what makes the game interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using a 1d12, you have two things working against you.  One, you have a dead number that you won't be using.  And two, each other number will only show up 8.33% of the time (as much as 4's and 10's used to show up).  And they all have the same chance, so strategy would be very different.  I would think it would make it a whole new game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="581" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T00:28:36.360" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T00:28:36.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11355" CreationDate="2013-03-08T12:40:39.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question...the kind of game you're thinking of, really, is Mansion of Madness, which is the Descent version of Arkham Horror.  Players play one of eight investigators and move through a location as they try to uncover a secret plot.  The story teller acts as the Herald or Overlord, by moving monsters to certain locations and playing cards on the player characters as they move through.  Generally speaking, it's very weighted against the players, unless they've played the scenarios a number of times and know what to do in each situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're proposing is basically the same idea.  Arkham Horror would turn into Mansions of Madness very quickly given the changes you've proposed.  I would say, from the number of times I've retconned certain turns in Arkham Horror, that the game is hard enough with the board being as random and cruel as it is.  If you had someone actively choosing Mythos cards or moving monsters, you would have a much harder and significantly different game on your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice to you would be to pick up Mansions of Madness.  It's a long setup for a game, but I like it and what it does to the players as they frantically run around, trying to not die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T16:10:54.897" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T16:10:54.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11377" CreationDate="2013-03-08T12:42:11.823" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;First thing is, that it would make the numbers more or less unimportant, since they all have the same probability now (that of 4 or 10 before). This means good building spots are nothing you have to fight for anymore. Settlements will be more spread out from the beginning, because a starting settlement with a 2 or 12 is no problem anymore. So there will be more space for building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another effect of equal probabilities is, that you would not have important and unimportant settlements anymore. So it might take more time until buying your first city pays off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More important on the long run is, that no resources can be scarce just because all of their fields have bad numbers in your variant. This probably makes all games the same, since differences in the island layout do not matter much anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rules as you suggested them there will also be more cards in the game. You reduced the probability for the robber and (more importantly) for halving the cards from 1/6 to 1/12. This means having many cards is likely to go unpunished. Better use 1 and 7 for the robber events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to find out: Just try it! And maybe report the results here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T12:42:11.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11340" CreationDate="2013-03-08T15:22:43.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are asking what the counters are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are just something you use to keep track of how many counters you have on the card. You can use button, glass beads, or a 20 sided die that you increments when you add and decrement when you remove counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T15:22:43.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11420" CreationDate="2013-03-08T17:06:08.163" Score="2" ViewCount="1802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game about 5 years ago; pretty sure it would be classified as a Euro game. You have a player mat made by putting a few tiles together, I think a 2x2 square of square tiles. Each tile has a grid on it, I think it's a 6x6 grid or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, you take small cubes and place them on your board; 1 cube per grid space. You can place up to 2 cubes on a turn as long as the 2 cubes are adjacent to each other. There might be 2 or 3 different color cubes you can choose to place, I can't remember for sure. The object is to end up with the most coverage or to cover specific areas, something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ring any bells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T21:39:27.423" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T16:54:29.923" Title="What is the name of this game where you place colored cubes on a tiled grid?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11360" CreationDate="2013-03-08T19:35:08.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We independently came up with @thesunneversets' idea, and found it a bit unsatisfying - it ends up being &quot;Don Bell sometimes gets to use an extra Bang! card during his turn or can use a green bordered card immediately&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fairly weak ability: since it's random, Don Bell can't plan for it and neither can any other player; even if he does get the chance, there's only a few &quot;active&quot; green cards for which this is useful in the first place (most of them are Missed! or Dodge equivalents); and players end up forgetting to use the power half the time anyway since he's the only character who regularly draws after the end of his turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance at an extra Bang is pretty good, but Doc Holiday already does that more reliably (and he pays any two cards instead of one Bang).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We decided that the interesting and unique part of his power was the interaction with green bordered cards, so we flat out changed his power to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Don Bell may play green bordered cards from his hand as if they were brown bordered cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lets him use the various green misses when he's being shot at, along with doing things like using a Buffalo Rifle as a lower-cost Springfield or a Pony Express as a Wells Fargo. He still can't use the Canteen as a holdout beer, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gives Don Bell interesting decisions to make (do I discard some cards and keep this green in my hand where people don't know I have it, or do I play it so I can keep more cards in hand?), and it gives other players interesting decisions to make related to him (do I play this Pony Express, or do I keep it in my hand since he would want to Panic it from me and use it immediately? Do I take the Conestoga from the general store even though I don't really want it to deny him?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, from a design standpoint (because this matters to us for some reason) it also provides a certain symmetry with Delgado's ability to interact with blue cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2730" LastEditorUserId="2730" LastEditDate="2013-03-08T21:23:39.503" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T21:23:39.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11377" CreationDate="2013-03-08T20:07:00.143" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my house, we only ever play with a d12. We combine it with a number of different house rules. I don't like sleeping on the couch, so my house doesn't use the robber. Instead on a 7, you simply grab any one card from the bank. You can use it for a robber if you want to though, for sure. But once we started with the d12, we never went back to 2d6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 1, you get a development card. Why? Because we need something cool for the 1, and development cards didn't see as much play in our style. This also means that you get an extra card of some kind on exactly 1/6th of the rolls, which is the same chance of rolling a 7 with 2d6. What you do with 1 and 7 is up to you. I recommend experimenting, as there is a lot of design space available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always play with the 'roll again on doubles' house rule. (Or is it an official rule? I forget, they're all such a blur!) With a d12 there are no doubles, of course, so we use the 2 and 12 for doubles. This again makes for 1/6th of the rolls being doubles, the same with 2d6. This changes strategy slightly, as stacking on 2 and 12 can give you massive chain-rolls. Of course, you stand the same chance to have a drought for a while any time you stack numbers, so it balances it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious big change is that there's less interest in 5,6,8,9. It allows you to balance your picks based on what you need, not just what the numbers are. It also reduces crowding around the 6 and 8 (and to a lesser extent 5 and 9, as expected). &lt;strong&gt;Because of the lower crowding, there is more room to grow uninterrupted.&lt;/strong&gt; This leads to games with longer roads and faster expansions (made even faster by having equally good choices on whatever resources you need), and &lt;strong&gt;ultimately faster games&lt;/strong&gt;. This wasn't planned when we started doing it, it just happened that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T20:07:00.143" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11387" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11388" CreationDate="2013-03-08T22:34:50.260" Score="4" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I had an argument over this the other night. The rules say that the Balrog can be used at &quot;any point during your turn.&quot; So I attempted to use him to ruin my friends day (taking out one of his places of power) and then go into decline. He claimed that I could not do this as I had started conquest by moving the Balrog and therefore could not decline. I countered with the &quot;Any point during my turn.&quot; would imply I could do it pre-conquest as that is still during my turn. I searched elsewhere on the internet but only found discussion boards and forums with similar arguments to the one my friend and I had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T23:07:02.367" Title="Can the Balrog be used before going into decline?" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11387" CreationDate="2013-03-08T23:07:02.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's actually an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=22605&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official ruling on this very point by Days of Wonder&lt;/a&gt; in the SWU FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q.If my active Race controls the Pentacle, may I move the Balrog, then&#xA;enter in Decline?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A.Yes, since the Balrog may be moved &amp;quot;at any point&#xA;during [your] turn&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people may not like this ruling very much, but I don't think its existence can be denied!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-08T23:07:02.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11320" CreationDate="2013-03-09T00:03:57.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combining some of the comments to the previous answer, and contrasting the accepted answer, some board and card game mechanics &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be patented as well as the content (art, instructions) being copyrighted/trademarked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a fine line to draw, but also a relatively simple rule of thumb. Basically, if you can find an example of a game that uses the mechanic which was documented as being played prior to  the ratification of the United States Constitution, then the game and any mechanic it has at that time are not eligible for patent, and you have an excellent case for moving forward with a game using the mechanic, whether you find a filed patent or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &quot;public domain&quot; rule encompasses a lot of the basic mechanics that people know and love:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty much every board game involving a regular grid constraining the directions and limits of movement of pieces, regardless of the shape of the spaces or the lines, drawn or implied, connecting them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maps of real geographic terrain, including pretty much any &quot;projection&quot; of the world as a map (you can't use actual prints from mapmakers - they're copyrighted - but the shape of the earth, and the names of cities, states, provinces, countries, and continents belong to no man or corporate entity)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jumping one piece over another and landing in an adjacent space in line on the other side (draughts, Dai Hasami Shogi, countless others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Capturing a piece by moving into the same space on the board (Chess, countless others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stacking pieces to indicate rank (draughts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having various pieces with different roles, movement or capturing rules (Chess, Shogi, draughts variants such as Dablot Prejessne, countless others)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if a game mechanic was first shown in a game more than 20 years old, and the mechanic was patented, the patent has almost certainly expired and is now in the public domain as well. If it was developed and widely used more than 20 years ago, but never patented, you can generally make the same claim. Until 2011, patent law was based on a doctrine of &quot;first to invent&quot;, meaning that if you could prove someone else had the idea first, you could get any patent filed after that date invalidated in court. This is what happened to Apple when it sued Microsoft for infringements of patented design elements of Apple's Mac OS; it turned out that Apple had first gotten the ideas from Xerox, who was therefore the &quot;first to invent&quot; and Apple's patents were void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, patents filed since 2011 are based on a &quot;first to file&quot; doctrine, meaning that in order to invalidate a patent, you have to prove the idea was overtly released to the public domain prior to the filing date, and so simply proving someone else thought of it first is insufficient; you must prove that they thought of it and made some overt action releasing the IP for general use. If all of the Apple and Microsoft startup stuff had happened in the last 10 years, and Apple v. Microsoft were to be heard this year, Microsoft would be in a world of hurt because Xerox, who never patented the ideas they let Apple use, would have nothing to say about Apple having filed the patents. So, if it's a relatively novel game mechanic, seen for the first time in a game released in the last couple of years, be very careful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T18:02:22.953" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T18:02:22.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2013-03-09T01:19:15.137" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;My general priority for passing when attempting to avoid points is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AK and usually Q of Spades. The AK are passed like a hot potato. If I'm long in lower Spades (6+) and have the Queen, I might try to keep her to foist off-suit, or when the AK turn up from someone else's hand. So, keeping the Queen is a judgement call, but absolutely nothing good can come from the Ace or King no matter how long you are; you're either lucky enough to play them last to a harmless Spade trick or off-suit, or they'll win you the Queen. In either case they can't hurt anyone else but you, and they certainly won't help you avoid points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face card Diamonds and Clubs. I might hang on to the Ace of Clubs if I don't have the 2, so I can win the first trick and choose the direction of play from there (usually either a Spade hunt or voiding Clubs/Diamonds), but other face cards in these suits typically have a similar low advantage/high risk as the high Spades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Face card Hearts, if I'm short in Hearts. Again, they're dangerous, but usually playable depending on the rest of my hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Voiding Clubs or Diamonds. Except for the Ace of Clubs, if I'm very short in either or even both of these suits and have cards left to pass, I'll pass whatever I'm shortest in and try to void a suit completely. Being void in a suit early gives you a lot of power; you can start dealing out blood early, or you can play it cool and dump other harmful cards. I might even keep some otherwise dangerous cards, like face Clubs/Hearts/Diamonds, in favor of voiding a suit and playing the others off-suit early in the hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cards that you should NEVER pass if you have an avoidance strategy. Even if you're trying for a moon shot, passing certain of these is a guaranteed red flag to the passee, requiring you to pretty much guarantee that you have 10 cards that will make it happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2/3/4 of Hearts. As soon as someone breaks Hearts, the very next trick is the &quot;funeral&quot;, where a low Heart is led and the person who can't undercut the rest (or sluff) gets them all. Passing a Heart lower than 7 is usually a pretty bonehead move; even if you're short in them, if your highest Heart is a 7 your bigger concern is ensuring you can choose the non-Heart tricks to win and then lose the lead on the next trick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any Spade ranked Jack or lower. Don't even try to void Spades. Just don't. If you end up lucky enough to get dealt a hand with no Spades on the no-pass hand, then thank your lucky stars and throw a middle Heart on every Spade trick you see. But with everyone at the table trying to get rid of the AKQ of Spades in passing rounds, odds are high that if you're not giving one of those, you're getting one, and will have to avoid playing it until just the right time (off-suit or when a higher Spade got smoked out). If you gave away the only low Spades that would have done that for you, you're hosed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ace of Hearts; even if it's your only Heart, never pass it. Whoever has the Ace has the power to make or break a moon shot, and by passing it you risk giving it to someone who could shoot the moon with it. Worst-case, realistically, is eating a Heart trick with it (if you're really unlucky it can win you a Heart trick in which someone managed to sluff the Queen; that's &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; unlikely). Best case, after the Queen's been smoked out you can off it on whomever didn't get the Queen and guarantee no moon shot for anyone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your last Club. Playing off-suit to the first trick is a red flag that you're void in Clubs and will usually spoil further attempts to make use of it. If you have only one Club, and it isn't the Ace, keep it. Keep the Ace too if it's your only Club, as long as you have another card to lose the lead with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T01:34:08.713" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T01:34:08.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11392" CreationDate="2013-03-09T03:43:39.240" Score="3" ViewCount="1363" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly defines the beginning and end of a specific step? Because I'm wondering if my logic seems solid enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of trying to avoid the sac requirement on my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Trooper&quot;&gt;Spark Trooper&lt;/a&gt; by using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt; or the ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistmeadow%20Witch&quot;&gt;Mistmeadow Witch&lt;/a&gt; or the like. This way I hope that when he comes back to the field since all the initial actions that stated at the beginning of the end step resolve, it is thus no longer the beginning of said step meaning I can hopefully bypass the sac requirement when he re-enters and thus use spark trooper repeatedly without having to revive him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5027" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T07:20:45.950" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T23:08:12.087" Title="Can I save my spark trooper with a delayed flicker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11391" CreationDate="2013-03-09T04:36:04.000" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter when the beginning or end of a specific step is. The rules state that any permanents that trigger during the End Step, do not trigger until the next end step. This means that if you exile &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Trooper&quot;&gt;Spark Trooper&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistmeadow%20Witch&quot;&gt;Mistmeadow Witch&lt;/a&gt; in response to the sacrifice trigger, it will be removed until your opponents EOT, and you won't have to sacrifice it until your next end step. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt;, due to it being a Sorcery, would require you casting it during the Second Main Phase, so you would need to save the targeted Spark Trooper at the end of your opponents turn as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;513.3. If a permanent with an ability that triggers &amp;quot;at the beginning of the end step&amp;quot; enters the battlefield during this step, that ability won't trigger until the next turn's end step. Likewise, if a delayed triggered ability that triggers &amp;quot;at the beginning of the next end step&amp;quot; is created during this step, that ability won't trigger until the next turn's end step. In other words, the step doesn't &amp;quot;backup&amp;quot; so those abilities can go on the stack. This rule applies only to triggered abilities; it doesn't apply to continuous effects whose durations say &amp;quot;until end of turn&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;this turn.&amp;quot; (See rule 514, &amp;quot;Cleanup Step.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-09T23:08:12.087" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T23:08:12.087" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11406" CreationDate="2013-03-09T06:23:55.127" Score="3" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule book doesn't say anything specifically about this (or I'm just missing it).  Does anyone know if an investigator can carry more than one weapon and if so, do you choose which weapon you're attacking with during your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T19:16:23.453" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T19:16:23.453" Title="Can an investigator carry more than one weapon?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11405" CreationDate="2013-03-09T06:27:15.153" Score="3" ViewCount="3721" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an investigator is stunned I understand that it limits the moves from 2 to 1.  Optionally, the investigator can spend their action to remove the stun.  If I spend the action first, is the move limit still in effect until the next turn?  Or can I then move two times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T19:14:33.300" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T14:28:44.573" Title="Confused About Stunned Investigators" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11401" CreationDate="2013-03-09T06:30:39.440" Score="2" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;The setup for Story 2 contains adjacent rooms with no wall or door.  The rules say that you must roll for horror when entering a room with a monster or when a monster enters the room.  My assumption is that applies in the case where there is a clear line of site since the rules specify &quot;room&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I just wanted to know if anyone could verify that even if there is a line of site between 2 rooms, you only do the horror role when in the same room as a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T17:46:46.627" Title="Rolling for Horror Between Rooms with No Door" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11395" CreationDate="2013-03-09T08:46:41.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I saw in a faq that in regards to fire they would count as two rooms and I  have played the horror rules the same way.  When it comes to shooting though I have used normal LOS rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T08:46:41.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11394" CreationDate="2013-03-09T08:49:11.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't remember that rule but since nothing would stop you from using your action as an extra move the effect would be the same. So I say yes that is allowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T08:49:11.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2013-03-09T08:55:27.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are as far as I  know no rules regarding how many weapons you can carry and you can choose which one you want to use.  There are though cards that will limit how much you can carry.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This had never really been a  problem in my games though since the investigators  usually are happy to even have one weapon let alone two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T08:55:27.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11391" CreationDate="2013-03-09T09:05:47.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with every other step, the beginning of the End Step is the instant the End Step begins. If something has happened in the End Step, it's past the beginning of the End Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the scenario you presented, the following has happened in the End Step before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Trooper&quot;&gt;Spark Trooper&lt;/a&gt; entered the 'field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The delayed triggered ability created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt; triggered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The delayed triggered ability created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt; was placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players passed priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The delayed triggered ability created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt; started resolving, placing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Trooper&quot;&gt;Spark Trooper&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Trooper&quot;&gt;Spark Trooper&lt;/a&gt; wasn't even close to being on the battlefield at the beginning of the end step. It's ability won't trigger that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T09:05:47.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11410" CreationDate="2013-03-09T16:31:06.550" Score="4" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;In backgammon, for instance, sequences of &quot;points&quot; are more valuable than the same number of points out of sequence. That is the 6-5, or 6-5-4 points, are more valuable than the 6-4, or 6-4-2 points respectively. In &quot;hold 'em&quot; (poker), a T-9 is more valuable than a J-9, even though the J is higher than the T (because of the greater potential of the T-9 to make a &quot;two-sided&quot; straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, are sequences of cards considered more valuable in bridge than non-sequences with similar higher HCP? That is, could KQJxx of a suit be more valuable than AQxxx of a suit, even though they both amount to 6 HCP? And could QJTxx be worth more than KJxxx (x being seven or less in both cases), even though QJT is nominally 1 HCP less than KJ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T15:28:50.533" Title="In bridge, are &quot;sequences&quot; more valuable than non-sequences of similar point count?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11395" CreationDate="2013-03-09T17:46:46.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules clearly state that you roll a Horror Test, when a monster enters a room with an investigator or visa versa (page 15). Line of Sight has nothing to do with the question, you do not roll a Horror Test, because you can see a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Room - An area of the map tile that has a name and is separated from the other rooms by solid brown walls, doors, or the edge of the map tile. ... (page 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a monster enters (or is placed in) an investigator’s room (or vice versa), the investigator must immediately make an attribute test called a HORROR TEST. He does so by making a Willpower test modified by the monster’s horror rating (the blue number at the top of its monster token). If he fails this test, he takes one horror (see “Damage and Horror” on page 24)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T17:46:46.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11404" CreationDate="2013-03-09T18:27:00.103" Score="4" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Diana Stanley gain sanity from doom tokens when the environment &quot;Dream of a Sunken City&quot; is in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diana Stanley's unique ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dark Insight - Any Phase: Gain 1 Sanity or 1 Stamina each time a doom token is added to the Ancient One's doom track&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dreams of a Sunken City Mythos card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mythos Ability: Investigators cannot gain Sanity except by receiving psychiatric care at Arkham Asylum (or from Carolyn Fern). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T17:11:43.110" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T17:11:43.110" Title="Diana Stanley dreams of a sunken city" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11402" CreationDate="2013-03-09T18:44:37.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The mythos card says &quot;investigators cannot gain sanity&quot; with a couple exceptions, and her ability says &quot;gain sanity&quot; and is not one of the exceptions. She can of course still gain stamina, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T18:44:37.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11402" CreationDate="2013-03-09T18:45:27.863" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diana Stanley's Dark Insight ability does not override the effects of the Mythos environment in play. If it would override the Mythos card, it would state so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Akachi's ability states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Secret Rites - Any Phase: Akachi gains +1 bonus to all skill checks to close or seal a gate. In addition, Akachi may always seal gates, regardless of other game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T18:45:27.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11394" CreationDate="2013-03-09T20:44:13.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Investigators: A stunned investigator only receives one  Movement Step&#xA;  during his turn. If he becomes stunned  during his turn, he may not&#xA;  take a second Movement Step....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;....An investigator or monster may have multiple stun tokens on him,  and&#xA;  may only discard one per turn (either during the Investigator  Trading&#xA;  Step or the Monster Attack Step – see pages 10–11).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keeper Turn in Detail&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 1&lt;/strong&gt; Investigator Trading Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;....After trading items, each stunned investigator may discard one of &#xA;  his stun tokens (see “Status Effects” on page 15)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Step 4&lt;/strong&gt; Monster Attack Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;....If a monster has a stun token on it, then the monster does not attack &#xA;  during this step. Instead, the keeper removes one stun token from the &#xA;  monster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from the FAQ on the Fantasy Flight website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can stunned Investigators perform actions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. A stunned investigator receives 1 movement step and 1 &#xA;  action step on his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the investigator is stunned at the beginning of their turn they can perform one movement step and 1 action step (which can be used as a Run Action that would allow them to move another time). There's nothing I see (in the base rulebook at least) that allows investigators to remove stun tokens with an action. Stun tokens on investigators are only removed at the end of the 'Investigator Trading Step' during the Keeper's Turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T20:44:13.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11393" CreationDate="2013-03-09T20:48:50.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Attack Action section on page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attacking a monster is a common action investigators perform. The &#xA;  player selects one of his weapon or attack Spell cards and chooses &#xA;  a monster as dictated on the card. Alternatively, an investigator &#xA;  may attack a monster in his space using his bare hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So an investigator is allowed to possess multiple weapon cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1243" LastActivityDate="2013-03-09T20:48:50.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11411" CreationDate="2013-03-10T01:19:51.357" Score="5" ViewCount="1723" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Lords of Waterdeep, can I place more than one of my agents at Waterdeep Harbor?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, at the end of the round, can two of my agents occupy two spaces at Waterdeep Harbor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T17:10:12.877" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T17:10:12.877" Title="Can one player put more than one of his agents at Waterdeep Harbor?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12789" CreationDate="2013-03-10T04:25:56.953" Score="6" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the introduction of the Gold Rush expansion, there is no FAQ on how to handle Lucky Duke/Horse Shoes with Rum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lucky Duke says each time he &quot;draws!&quot; flip the top two cards and chose one. Horse Shoes says whenever you &quot;draw!&quot;, you reveal 1 additional card and choose the result. Rum says &quot;Draw!&quot; 4 cards: you regain 1 life point for each different Suit revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do these interact? It's not clear if Rum means to draw 4 cards, or draw 4 times. My play group has ruled that it is intended to draw 1 card 4 times, which would mean Lucky Duke and Horse Shoes would take full advantage of it. But that may not be the case; it's hard to say since Lucky Duke was created before there were any cards that had a draw of multiple cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the different ways I can see this working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Based on the wording of Lucky Duke he only draws two cards for Rum and would draw a 3rd card if he had Horse Shoes, putting his use of Rum at a disadvantage compared to all other characters. This would also mean all other characters would draw 5 cards from Rum and they would chose the 4 that they would want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Based on the assumption that Rum is intended to draw 1 card 4 times, Lucky Duke would get 4 draws of 2 cards, and chose one after each two card draw to determine how much life he gets back. If he has Horse Shoes he would draw 3 each time and any other character would draw 2 each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my searches I have seen people arguing for both sides. Personally I'm thinking the second choice is right since it seems that Lucky Duke should have an advantage when it comes to draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T17:05:17.200" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T23:18:53.573" Title="How do Rum and Lucky Duke/Horse Shoes interact?" Tags="|bang|balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11400" CreationDate="2013-03-10T06:02:20.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible, but it might vary when you are considering the offensive/defensive potential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider your example KQJxx vs AQxxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose this was the trump suit and say partner has Txx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With KQJxx, you likely have only one loser. But with AQxxx it is quite possible that you will have 2 losers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;offensively (i.e if that suit is trumps) KQJxx can probably said to be &quot;better&quot; than AQxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defensively (i.e when you are defending and this is a side suit), AQxxx tends to be more valuable. This is worth an almost sure trick, and is a reasonable chance that you can make 2 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With KQJxx, you might make one trick, but the second one might be unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So defensively, AQxxx is &quot;better&quot; than KQJxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, I am yet to come across a hand where this difference seems relevant (perhaps we can construct an artificial hand where there is a choice of trump between two suits).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T06:02:20.740" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11408" CreationDate="2013-03-10T07:47:53.853" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can place more than one of your agents at Waterdeep Harbor to play multiple Intrigue cards. At the end of the round, the agents there are placed onto other spaces in order, regardless of who they belong to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Page 9 of the rulebook (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Waterdeep Harbor has three action spaces instead of the usual one. &lt;strong&gt;You can assign more than 1 of your Agents to Waterdeep Harbor&lt;/strong&gt; if it still has an open action space (but you still can't assign more than 1 Agent per turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T07:47:53.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11418" CreationDate="2013-03-10T09:25:28.720" Score="11" ViewCount="42945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course the spell won't resolve, but is the indestructible creature a legal target for a spell with the effect &amp;quot;destroy target creature&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can I target &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%2C%20Champion%20of%20Justice&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt;, animated by its second ability, with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rapid%20Hybridization&quot;&gt;Rapid Hybridization&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2656" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:49:05.877" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:49:05.877" Title="Can I target an indestructible creature with a 'destroy target creature' spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-10T14:15:00.187" Score="2" ViewCount="1481" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reason discussed below, &quot;card counters&quot; make their money by observing the flow of cards as they leave the deck. This is legal in most cases (although it's a felony to use a &quot;device&quot; such as a computer in Nevada). It is frowned upon, probably because it violates an unwritten rule (the house is supposed to win).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the rules of the game (the deal plays after all the players), the casino will win the majority of the hands. But there are several offsetting rules that reduce the house edge to about 1%:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Players are paid 3-2 for blackjacks (more like 5-4 nowadays), unless the dealer also has a blackjack, in which case it's a tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The dealer has to &quot;hit on 16, stand on 17.&quot; Players are free to make better decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Players can &quot;double down&quot; in advantageous situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Players can &quot;split&quot; two equal cards if it is to their advantage, essentially doubling their bets, and getting two potential blackjacks for e.g. A-A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card counters do one more thing to tip the odds in their favor. There are rare situations (when a lot of small cards have come out of the deck, leaving a disproportionate number of ten valued cards). At such times, the game is actually in the player's favor ( 1) greater potential for blackjacks, and 2) greater potential for the dealer to bust.) Card counters will &quot;bet big&quot; at such times, and &quot;bet small&quot; at others. The bet size variations (typically 5- or 10- to 1, larger than that of a typical &quot;tourist), help identify a card counter. If someone were to &quot;flat bet&quot; (bet the same on every hand), card counting probably would be useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevada casinos will typically bar (eject) or harass people identified as card counters. (Following a court case, Atlantic City casinos can't do this, but will merely &quot;shuffle up&quot; after every deal to eliminate the counter's advantage.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, Nevada casinos shouldn't be allowed to do what they do, but should have the privilege of &quot;money managment&quot; available to every player. If casinos had the right to limit bet sizes, and more importantly, bet VARIATIONS to say 2-to-1, it would be roughly even money against the best card counters (and make money from a bunch of wannabees).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a workable solution for the casino to not lose money at blackjack? Would this be &quot;fair&quot; to both the house and players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:04:42.757" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T20:04:42.757" Title="Can casinos protect themselves against card counters by limiting bet variations in blackjack?" Tags="|blackjack|casino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11412" CreationDate="2013-03-10T14:49:31.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless it says &lt;code&gt;&quot;destroy target creature that's not indestructible&quot;&lt;/code&gt; than yes, you can target it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, the spell will resolve.  Gideon won't be destroyed, but his controller will still get his &lt;code&gt;Frog Lizard&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for spells that &lt;code&gt;cannot be countered&lt;/code&gt; and tapping and untapping creatures.`&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T15:35:03.787" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T15:35:03.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11412" CreationDate="2013-03-10T15:24:51.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;this is from the ruling section from the gatherer link for 'Rapid Hybridization'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Rapid Hybridization resolves and the creature isn’t destroyed&#xA;  (perhaps because it’s indestructible), its controller will still get&#xA;  the Frog Lizard token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T15:24:51.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11412" CreationDate="2013-03-10T15:29:45.523" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;strong&gt;Indestructible&lt;/strong&gt; creatures are legal targets for spells/abilities that say &amp;quot;destroy target creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spell actually does resolve, but when it attempts to destroy the creature rule 700.4 prevents it from happening. The requirements for a &amp;quot;legal target&amp;quot; for a spell must be a permanent, unless the spell/ability specifies otherwise. &lt;strong&gt;Indestructibility&lt;/strong&gt; does not modify the rules for targeting, unlike the rules for protection (702.15b A permanent or player with protection can’t be targeted by spells with the stated quality and can’t be targeted by abilities from a source with the stated quality).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can target Gideon with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rapid%20Hybridization&quot;&gt;Rapid Hybridization&lt;/a&gt;, and when it resolves it will fail to destroy Gideon and will create 3/3 frog owned by Gideon's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.2. Only permanents are legal targets for spells and abilities, unless a spell or ability (a) specifies that it can target an object in another zone or a player, (b) targets an object that can’t exist on the battlefield, such as a spell or ability, or (c) targets a zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. If a permanent is indestructible, rules and effects can’t destroy it. (See rule 701.6, “Destroy.”) Such permanents are not destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the lethal-damage state-based action (see rule 704.5g). Rules or effects may cause an indestructible permanent to be sacrificed, put into a graveyard, or exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T15:29:45.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11382" CreationDate="2013-03-10T16:54:29.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tracked it down... Mykerinos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21441/mykerinos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21441/mykerinos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T16:54:29.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11412" CreationDate="2013-03-10T17:10:21.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can target anything that matches the description given for what's a legal target (unless Shroud, Hexproof or similar prevents you). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rapid%20Hybridization&quot;&gt;Rapid Hybridization&lt;/a&gt; has you pick a &lt;em&gt;target creature&lt;/em&gt;. Since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%2C%20Champion%20of%20Justice&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt; is a creature (at this time), you can pick it as the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Gideon is indestructible (at this time). It can't be destroyed [CR 700.4], but Rapid Hybridization instructs you to destroy it. &lt;em&gt;Can't&lt;/em&gt; trumps &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; [CR 101.2], so you're asked to do something impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, the following happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;Destroy target creature. It can't be regenerated.&lt;/s&gt; That creature's controller puts a 3/3 green Frog Lizard creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gideon's controller will get to keep Gideon, and he will gain a Frog Lizard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-10T22:34:12.433" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T22:34:12.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11422" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-10T21:31:35.423" Score="5" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends an I have tried playing this game a few times now and have come to the conclusion that going a green never wins. Green cards do not seem to be more powerful than red cards and yet red cards have victory points attached to them. This gives players who go red an automatic advantage over those who go green. Going balanced doesn't seem to work well either since then you do not have the power or token generation to get boss loots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is why would you ever go green, or more exactly why would you ever not go red?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T12:54:49.797" Title="Why should I ever go green?" Tags="|penny-arcade-gamers-vs-evil|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11422" CreationDate="2013-03-10T22:44:15.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The real question is why bother to focus on one side at all? There are plenty of cards on both sides that increase the power of the other side. As for you claim that Red cards are more powerful I would argue that green cards are more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what cards are available a green deck has lot of power and its all in how the cards are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baby Ninja: While it adds +1 power its great to have for pvp defense (and you get a replacement card) and it can be used with other green cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magical Unicorn: Great for getting rid of a bad hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bat Milk: Doesn't give much by itself but it can be used to get a replacement card that is more valuable and it can clean your deck of red cards if you are going pure green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Robot Cowboy Angel: Great pvp defense as you get 2 cards back and if not needed for pvp defence you can just draw another card in its place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Faerie Candymancer: Great for removing pox cards since you can draw another card and it can get rid of red cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Psychic Cat, Stone Yeti and Hawkman with a Laser Gun: Great card for early on where you can discard a quarter and a cardboard tube to get 3 Tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TochWieners: Free card if your opponents also get them &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Natural Twenty: One of the most powerful cards in the game once you start using two of them since they are cumulative in power. Throw two of them on a Werewolf with a Top Hat and you got a total of 12 tokens and 12 power for 3 cards which shows you how quickly they can give you tokens/power. That combo can allow you to buy both red and green boss cards while not worrying about other red cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorcelator: How can you go wrong with 1 token, 1 power and 1 card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pickle Recognition Engine: In a green deck this will give you 5 tokens most of the time and combine it with a few Natural Twenty's and you will soon have the ability to buy multiple boss cards on a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Werewolf with a Top Hat: 3 tokens and 3 power combined with Natural Twenty is a great way to build up green cards and grab red boss loots before your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure the only green cards with victory points are the boss loots but the cards have the ability to help a player build up quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end the decision to go with pure green, pure red or a combination of the two really depends on what what cards are available for the game. Nothing is set in stone when you can get a game with 9 or 10 stacks of green cards then it would be silly to worry to much about red if they didn't have many cards that help you get the boss loot quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2013-03-10T22:44:15.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-10T23:30:41.393" Score="4" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'm planning a game of Diplomacy with my friends for this weekend. The problem is, none of us have ever played before, so I'm trying to fill the gaps in my understanding so that our inexperience doesn't reduce the fun.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you use the paper maps that come with Diplomacy? I know they are supposed to keep track of the units on the board while you go elsewhere with your negotiations, but I'm not sure of the best way to do that. Should I pencil in letters to show where the units are and update them as the game goes on? Does this usually prove difficult enough that you only keep track of your own units and your neighbors'? What updates do you usually make to your map after each round is finished? How would you recommend a new player use their map?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An image of a map being used during a game would be great if possible! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T00:49:01.123" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T15:47:36.290" Title="How are the maps provided with Diplomacy supposed to be used?" Tags="|diplomacy|components|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-10T23:52:27.253" Score="8" ViewCount="1820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning a game of Diplomacy with my friends for this weekend. The problem is, none of us have ever played before, so I'm trying to fill the gaps in my understanding so that our inexperience doesn't reduce the fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the issues I'm worried about is someone getting eliminated, or practically eliminated, early in the game. I'm not sure how often eliminations happen in the game, but I really don't want to ask someone to reserve four hours of their time to play, only to have them get taken out of the running very early and have to watch the rest of us play. Note that I'm not opposed to someone getting eliminated, but to someone not having fun &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; they were eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often do early eliminations happen in Diplomacy? Do you ever find player elimination to be a problem? What, if anything, do you do to reduce the potential negative impacts of player elimination? What tips would you give a group of noobs with regard to eliminations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T23:04:27.507" Title="Preventing early elimination from ruining someone's first game of Diplomacy?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11413" CreationDate="2013-03-11T00:17:30.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this is most likely no since a casino wants players to maximize their bets and placing any kind of limit that would keep a player betting lower would not be in their best interests. Minimum and Maximum bets at a table are established to maximize the amount that a casino can win while limiting a player to take advantage of long term odds to win by placing small and large bets over time. The short of it is a casino wants players to make larger bets when they are feeling lucky but they also know that a lot of players are not going to want to place large bets all of the time so they need to allow them to place both small and large bets depending on how they feeling their luck is running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T00:17:30.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2013-03-11T06:03:43.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game will most likely contract from seven players down to six or five within the first 6 turns, with someone hitting zero SCs in Fall 1903.   The first people eliminated will probably be pretty bummed, but usually not so much at the game as at the person they trusted, who stabbed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could arrange to make the first eliminated player become the adjudicator for future orders.  That helps everyone and keeps them in a position to learn more about the game with everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T06:03:43.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11424" CreationDate="2013-03-11T06:09:59.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make copies of the map (it's expressly authorized) but you'll find most folks won't write on them.  The pattern I see in both home and tournament play is that during adjudication everyone will write down the units they have down the left side of what will become their order sheet.  During negotiations they'll consult their list and look at the map, often indicating moves by tapping their pencil at the start and end of the move their discussing.  Once they're ready to write orders their turn their inventory list into their orders and submit it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My larger piece of advice is to keep the pace of the game as fast as you can.  Start the negotiation timer as soon as the previous turn has been adjudicated (don't let everyone take time outside of negotiation to write their units).  Similarly, don't give separate time to write orders after negotiation is done -- that's something you do during negotiation and if you don't get them done your units are in civil disorder.  Along those lines be sure to enforce the &quot;no negotiation during builds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T06:09:59.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11431" CreationDate="2013-03-11T11:29:12.580" Score="1" ViewCount="2340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently bought the game of thrones card game, and a group of friends and I enjoyed playing the core game so much we've bought all the basic house expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think any of our players are going to be that much into deck building, but I'd like to  make it so that we have a set of decks (Maybe two for each house) that can provide variety while being balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't mind playing with the decks that came with the game out of the box, but that doesn't incorporate houses Greyjoy or Martell, and when I was playing Martell last night I noticed that quite a few of the cards in the deck that comes out of the box weren't house Martell at all so I would have had to pay extra to play them. (I just unwrapped one of the 3 sets in the expansion because we wanted to get started ASAP.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any lists of Model decks for each house using the core cards and the cards in the house expansions? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T17:52:21.600" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T17:52:21.600" Title="Model Decks for Game of Thrones The Card Game?" Tags="|deck-building|game-of-thrones-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11422" CreationDate="2013-03-11T12:54:49.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the setup. If you've got Bat Milk, and a few other deck thinners, you remove all of the other trash from you deck, draw your entire deck every turn, and win before anyone else has really started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green has the majority of the deck thinning cards (and PVP Defense). Also most of your combo cards are going to be in green. Werewolf in a Tophat and 3 Natural 20s = 3 of each boss loot all on the same turn. With Bat Milk in the mix you can do that reliably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, sometimes Red IS the better choice. Again it depends on the setup, and how other people play. Having some Defense or Deck Thinning is vital if you have a lot of people buying PVP attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T12:54:49.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11429" CreationDate="2013-03-11T15:20:48.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a quick search and came up with two good resources for this. &lt;a href=&quot;http://elitistjerks.com/blogs/122150-emptyrepublic/566-building_game_thrones_lcg_deck/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;First&lt;/a&gt;, some general guidelines for building cohesive decks that can work from ElitistJerks.com. The article lays out quite a bit of good information about this process that will probably help in determining how to create your decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/GoTDecks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Second&lt;/a&gt;, I found a website where players can post decks they have built. Other players can then rate the decks so you could get a feel for what people think is good (although most decks seem to go unrated as of right now). Each deck page has a list of cards in it, the description and how it is suppose to play, and other statistics on deck composition. The site is divided into each of the six houses, along with a list for neutral decks. This seems to be the best list for what you're doing, since you can focus on one house list and then move to the next when you're done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T17:45:49.140" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T17:45:49.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2013-03-11T16:15:32.817" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like Ry4an said, it is pretty much guaranteed that some people will be eliminated (or nearly so) early on.  You'll want to make people aware of this at the beginning, and set some expectations going in of how people will react (ie Is it OK to just give standing orders for 1 or 2 units and leave? Is it OK to proxy control of units to another player and leave?  Are eliminated players allowed to listen in on negotiations between other players?)  You might want to have other games on hand so that eliminated players can entertain themselves during the negotiation phase and check in on the Diplomacy game occasionally if they're interested in the final outcome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option that I mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3796/in-diplomacy-should-you-have-separate-country-draws-for-players-of-different/3806#3806&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is to plan to play several mini-games with pre-determined ending years.  You won't get the full end-game experience, but several shorter games with some time to debrief in between might be a better first Diplomacy experience than one full game with a number of eliminations.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T16:15:32.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11434" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-03-11T17:56:31.877" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T17:56:31.877" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T17:56:31.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11435" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-03-11T17:56:31.877" Score="0" Body="A Game of Thrones: The Card game is a Living Card Game for two players based on the popular novels by R.R. Martin. Players assume leadership of one of the six Great Houses and vie for control of the Iron Throne." OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T17:57:20.303" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T17:57:20.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11448" CreationDate="2013-03-11T20:54:12.130" Score="7" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, can I set aside my Lighthouse on an Island to protect myself from attacks throughout the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, cards set aside using Islands are still 'In Play', as this makes sense from a mechanism and theme point of view (Lighthouse on an Island).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if this is the case, I wonder what happens when combining Island with Goons, Hoard or Quarry...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since everyone has an opinion, I'm really looking for material references one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5034" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T01:21:50.043" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T04:31:35.800" Title="Is a card set aside with an Island considered &quot;In Play&quot;?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-11T21:13:38.573" Score="5" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've tried to learn how to play bridge before, but there are so many variations (even on the Wikipedia page) that it's hard to keep track of everything and pin down exactly one way of playing it that I can use as a base to learn all the variations from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I've learned, the game is similar to (and derives from) whist, which is the most basic trick-taking game, where a team scores points for winning tricks past six. But past that, I looked at the rules for playing bridge, and couldn't make head nor tail of them. There are variations like rubber bridge and contract bridge, and among those variations on how to score points. For example, the first rulebook I ever saw bridge in had the club-trump suits worth 2 points, diamonds worth 4, etc. up to no-trump worth 10, and a team won once they scored 30 points worth of odd tricks. But then I learned from somebody else that a single trick was worth 30 points, and then from somebody else that a contract was for six plus the bid, but I didn't know what the contract was even used for and what purpose it had in scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between rubber and contract, which one is more popular? What do all the variations have in common besides their origins in whist? Please help this beginner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T03:00:45.590" Title="What are some good introductory rules to bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11449" CreationDate="2013-03-11T21:45:13.477" Score="6" ViewCount="2417" Body="&lt;p&gt;One example of such a play is &quot;splitting tens.&quot; That is an agressive play that's usually foolish, except when someone is &quot;card counting&quot;? When suspected, card counters are &quot;barred&quot; from casinos (or worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11413/can-casinos-protect-themselves-against-card-counters-by-limiting-bet-variations&quot;&gt;Can casinos protect themselves against card counters by limiting bet variations in blackjack?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card counters are usually identified by wildly changing their bet sizes. (That's mostly how they make their money, but they can make &quot;a little&quot; extra money by using card-counting to inform their play). Suppose someone &quot;split tens&quot; without making large bet variations. Would he still be &quot;suspect?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, what is the rule for splitting tens? Do they have to be the same denomination (two tens, two jacks, etc.) or merely of the same value (e.g. king and jack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago, someone was harassed by casino authorities for hitting to an 18 and catching a 3 (usually a bad play that made 21 this one time). Upon questioning, this person told the casino that the dealer had a &quot;tell&quot; that said the dealer had 20, so the &quot;heat&quot; went on the dealer, not the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could a player get into such trouble today under the new rules (the dealer is not supposed to look at his &quot;hole&quot; card, but merely turn it up after all the players have played)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other kinds of plays may draw &quot;heat&quot; and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2020-11-17T09:05:41.250" Title="Can &quot;aggressive&quot; or unusual play in blackjack get someone thrown out of a casino?" Tags="|etiquette|blackjack|casino|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11436" CreationDate="2013-03-11T22:00:54.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; If you set aside a Lighthouse (reaction text: &lt;em&gt;While this is in play, when another player plays an Attack card, it doesn't affect you&lt;/em&gt;) with an Island, which card did you play? Not the Lighthouse, the Island! The Lighthouse never enters play on that turn. The Island doesn't stay &quot;in play&quot; either, it is set aside (analogous to Exile if you play Magic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of your turn you clean up (put in discard pile) all cards that are in play except for duration cards that entered play on the current turn. If you played an Island, you set it aside with another card, neither are in play, neither get cleaned up, and neither are accessible by anything else or have any affect on anything else until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how it would make sense from a mechanism point of view. From a theme point of view, I think of Island as a desert island where something gets stranded and only just makes it back to be counted at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-03-11T22:12:47.867" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T22:12:47.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11436" CreationDate="2013-03-11T22:04:21.647" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty simple - you don't play the Lighthouse, so it's never In Play. You set it aside in a special area that isn't the play area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2346" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T22:04:21.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2013-03-11T22:56:25.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing you need to know is that clubs and diamonds are minor suits, and spades and hearts are major suits. Minor suits score 20 points for each trick over six, major suits 30 points for each trick over six. No Trump scores 40 points for the first trick over six, and 30 points per trick thereafter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing you need to know is that game requires 100 points of tricks bid AND made. So a minor suit game requires 11 tricks 5 x 20 (over six), a major suit game ten tricks (4 x 30) over six, and a No Trump game nine tricks, 40+30+30 for the first three tricks over six. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two games make a rubber. If you win the rubber two games to zero, you get 700 bonus points. If you win it two games to one, you get 500 bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make more tricks than you bid (overtricks), you get credit towards game (below the line) for only the tricks that you bid. You get &quot;bonus points&quot; (above the line) for overtricks. But they don't count toward game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make fewer tricks than you bid, your OPPONENTS receive points that represent penalty points (to you). These penalties are increased if the opponents said &quot;double.&quot; I won't go into the system of penalties since it's quite complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T22:56:25.133" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2013-03-11T23:03:09.957" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players can be eliminated in two ways. 1) They get &quot;wiped out,&quot; losing all of their supply centers and pieces. 2) They are surrounded and about to get wiped out, so they resign by declaring &quot;civil disorder.&quot; Their piece remain on the board until eliminated, and they can't move, but other players can &quot;support&quot; individual pieces located in cities to prevent them from being captured by a third party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elimination usually takes time (at least two or three game years), but is part of the game, so people need to learn this. If everyone is new, there may be a lot of back and forth that will prevent people from being eliminated quickly. And even after elimination, there is an incentive for people to stick around: 1) to see others get eliminated and 2) to learn from the experience of others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to greatly reduce the chances of your new players' being eliminated early is to have them draw separately for the corner countries that are less likely to get eliminated. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3796/in-diplomacy-should-you-have-separate-country-draws-for-players-of-different&quot;&gt;In Diplomacy, Should You Have Separate Country &amp;quot;Draws&amp;quot; For Players of Different Experience?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once these players have drawn their countries, you can have a full draw for everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T18:33:16.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-11T23:08:26.157" Score="3" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how Lasso/The Judge/Belle Star should interact with equipment cards, since the rule book doesn't seem to be very clear about interactions with other expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lasso&lt;/strong&gt;: cards in play in front of all players have no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Judge&lt;/strong&gt;: players cannot play cards in front of themselves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Belle Star&lt;/strong&gt;: during her turn, cards in play in front of other players have no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that the only way to remove one from a player is by paying the purchase cost + 1 gold, and they can't be the target of panic/cat balou cards/effects. But how does that apply to  effects that say &quot;cards in play&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since it's not mentioned at all in the rules: if a sheriff kills the deputy, does that mean he would lose all his equipment in addition to the normal losses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T16:10:53.597" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T08:22:37.613" Title="How do Lasso, The Judge and Belle Star interact with equipment cards?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11424" CreationDate="2013-03-11T23:25:36.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual moves are recorded on the Diplomacy board by moving the pieces at the end of each round, after the orders are read and the &quot;combats&quot; are resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maps are for reference. Suppose you were playing e.g. France, and on the second turn, you said to England, &quot;If I move Army Picardy to Belgium against Germany's Fleet Netherlands to Belgium, would you support me using your fleet in the North Sea?&quot; you'd use the maps to show England what you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T23:25:36.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11446" CreationDate="2013-03-11T23:32:11.060" Score="22" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 7 d6 and a d10.  Sides contain horseshoes, crossbows, swords, wings, faces, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/i8Yes.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QAa2L.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5035" LastEditorUserId="5035" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T13:27:11.930" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T09:15:01.407" Title="Can anyone tell me what game these dice come from?" Tags="|identify-this-game|dice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11445" CreationDate="2013-03-11T23:47:35.037" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could it be you have &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dragon_Dice&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragon Dice?&lt;/a&gt; Looks like this particular photo includes D8 not D10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PhC5d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dragon Dice Image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-03-11T23:47:35.037" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-12T03:10:07.463" Score="6" ViewCount="1819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a variant to balance out mandatory quests when playing 2 player. I understand that normally they are powerful, and exist as a catch up mechanic, allowing all players to target the leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not work in a two-player game.  In a three-player game when a mandatory quest is played, the biggest winner is the player not involved in the play. In a two-player game the biggest winner is the player playing the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I find bad is not that mandatory quests are powerful, but how weak all the other Intrigue cards are.  Instead of getting a boost, they are mostly weakened.  Cards that get you agents and points get you less.  Cards that give things to opponents, make you give things to &quot;all&quot; opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to make the game much more luck-based, as drawing mandatory quests is just so much better than any other Intrigue card.  This is the aspect that I really dislike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution might be to create a dummy player. This player would always do what the person playing the Intrigue card wants, giving agents or VP for instance. I would like to know if there are any other ways that would balance the cards out better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T09:36:55.513" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T20:50:07.103" Title="How can I balance mandatory quests in two-player games of Lords of Waterdeep?" Tags="|variants|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11436" CreationDate="2013-03-12T03:30:38.567" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, cards Set Aside cards are not In Play&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_326_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Seaside Rules&lt;/a&gt; states rather specifically on page 4 that &lt;strong&gt;set aside&lt;/strong&gt; cards are not in play, only played cards are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In play cards are those you have played - not those set aside, trashed, or discarded. Nor are they cards in your hand, deck, supply or discard piles. (page4, sidebar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“In play” -- Action cards and Treasure cards played face-up in a player’s play area are in play until they are moved somewhere else—usually until they are discarded during a Clean-up phase. &lt;strong&gt;Only played cards are in play&lt;/strong&gt;; set aside cards, trashed cards, cards in the supply, and cards in hands, decks, and discard piles are not in play. Reaction abilities like Moat's do not put those cards into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_oDO8iuQ3er0/StjSVGzNfuI/AAAAAAAAAks/azOdkpmwgic/s1600-h/Dominion+Seaside+Island.jpg&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt; – [...] Island and the card set aside with it are set aside face up on the Island player mat provided. They should not be shuffled back into your deck when you shuffle your discard pile. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_306_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;Intrigue rules&lt;/a&gt;, define &lt;strong&gt;Set Aside&lt;/strong&gt; (page 4, Intrigue), and instruct you to not follow rules text for cards set aside. And while &lt;strong&gt;play&lt;/strong&gt; is never defined in the rules, it is only used in two contexts while appearing 63 times (3 if you count the single instance in the sidebar, &quot;play passes clockwise&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to play (verb): to place an Action card from your hand to the play area, and follow the instructions on the card or place a Treasure card from your hand to the play area adding their value to any coins provided by action cards then Gain any Card from the supply of equal or lesser value.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;play area&lt;/strong&gt;: the place where Action cards and Treasure cards are placed during a players Action/Buy phases. These cards are usually placed in a player's Discard during the Clean-Up phase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Action phase, the player may play one Action card. [...] To play an Action, the player takes an Action card from his hand and lays it face-up in his play area. He announces which card he is playing and follows the instructions written on that card from top to bottom. [...] Any Action cards played remain in the player’s play area until the Clean-up phase of the turn unless otherwise indicated on the card. Players should not discard the cards prior to the Clean-up phase, unless directed to by the card or another action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Buy phase, the player can gain one card from the Supply by paying its cost. [...] The player may play some or all of the Treasure cards from his hand to his play area on the table and add to their value the coins provided by Action cards played this turn. The player may then gain any card in the Supply of equal or lesser value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Set Aside” – when a player sets aside a card, he places it face-up on the table (unless otherwise indicated) without following any instructions on the card. An Action that requires a player to set aside cards will instruct him on what to do with these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T04:31:35.800" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T04:31:35.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2013-03-12T07:59:26.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think winning an excessive number of times get you thrown out of a casino. And the casino will &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; try to find &quot;good&quot; reasons like card counting or whatever dodgy moves you made. If splitting tens is one of them, and you placed a high bet and you won a lot, then certainly the casino will use that to support their claim. If you just split tens and then lose, I don't think the casino will throw you out. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the unwritten rules that you mention are a set of heuristics that the casino uses to decide whether or not you are suspicious. More or less like a spamfilter deciding whether an email message is spam or not. Some actions make you more suspicious and once you go over a threshold the alarm bells start ringing. Of course the number one alarm bell would be the fact that you are winning, but I can imagine that a persistent ten-splitter might eventually become suspicious for being &quot;out-of-the-ordinary&quot;. I just don't think the casino will chuck you out as long as you don't win too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding your card counter's book. In the end (s)he is a card counter, so if the casino chucked them out for splitting tens perhaps (s)he had been doing other moves in line with being a card counter inherently, and has, perhaps without knowing, made several other alarm bells ring already. Maybe the splitting of the tens was &quot;the straw that broke the camel's back&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as my knowledge reaches regarding Blackjack, I believe in order to split tens they need to be the same denomination. So a Jack and a King cannot be split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="3107" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T08:11:42.580" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T08:11:42.580" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11445" CreationDate="2013-03-12T11:28:20.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if these are the ten-siders in question (faces, battleaxes, wings)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Zhkx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Dragon Dice expansion of some kind, though I couldn't tell you which monsters these particular dice represent...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T11:28:20.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11452" CreationDate="2013-03-12T19:46:49.373" Score="7" ViewCount="2799" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366461&quot;&gt;Beckon Apparition (Gatecrash)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of cards that use counter as a noun. I did some Googling but I'm just not clear on what I need to use for counters.  Are they physical things I can buy and if so, what is a good online resource?  Can I just make do with coins or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T19:58:46.497" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T11:33:02.647" Title="Are counters (noun) physical things?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11451" CreationDate="2013-03-12T19:50:02.313" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, counters should be represented by physical objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;122.1. A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or interacts with a rule, ability, or effect. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been official products for use as counters. &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Punch_card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Punch cards&lt;/a&gt; including -1/-1 counters and brick counters were provided alongside the Amonkhet block (Apr 2017). To help support the keyword counters it introduced, the Ikoria set (Apr 2020) provided punch cards with +1/+1 counters and keyword counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HlT93.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YKwSJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ikoria Counters&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You aren't required to use these. The objects used as counter can be anything. Dice and flat-bottomed glass beads meant to be used in flower vases are popular. You can get the latter at Michaels or Jo-Ann, among others. Some gaming stores carry them as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g7PV0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Beads&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen people use pennies, but they will scratch your cards if the cards aren't protected. (Anything could, but beads and dice have rounder edges.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T11:33:02.647" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T11:33:02.647" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11451" CreationDate="2013-03-12T19:54:07.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Magic Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;100.2. To play, each player needs his or her own deck of traditional Magic cards, small items to represent any tokens and counters, and some way to clearly track life totals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.1. A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or&#xA;  interacts with a rule, ability, or effect. Counters are not objects and have no characteristics. Notably,&#xA;  a counter is not a token, and a token is not a counter. Counters with the same name or description&#xA;  are interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any object will do to mark counters on a card. I tend to use D6s, although there are rare occasions when I have to use D10s or D20s, depending on the card. I find it easier to keep track of the number of counters on a card if I am using dice to mark them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T19:54:07.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11455" CreationDate="2013-03-12T20:08:25.557" Score="6" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that there is a printable chart for Power Grid somewhere online, possibly &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Said chart breaks down the players &amp;amp; steps into individual cards that are more convenient than the bulky back of the rule book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Players: 4&#xA;   Step 1 Step 2 Step 3&#xA;Oil   1       2       3&#xA;Coal  2       3       4&#xA;etc.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can find this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T20:16:33.883" Title="Power Grid - Simpler Resource Grid" Tags="|game-accessories|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11454" CreationDate="2013-03-12T20:16:33.883" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you tried looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/files/thing/2651?sort=hot&amp;amp;languageid=&amp;amp;B1=Apply&quot;&gt;any of these&lt;/a&gt;? I've ordered that list by popularity, so the stuff at the top should be the most useful. There are lots and lots of summaries and crib sheets available. Which one works best for you is really a question of personal taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T20:16:33.883" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11494" CreationDate="2013-03-12T20:41:43.407" Score="2" ViewCount="5367" Body="&lt;p&gt;As my collection has started growing (new to MtG) I'm now needing to organize.  I've done quite a bit of blog reading on the different methods and strategies but one thing I can't quite seem to determine is how to handle multi-color cards.  I have 2 examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366261&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One Thousand Crashes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially what I'm doing is calling this a white since it is the first colored cost symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366461&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Beckon Apparition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is an either or so I have no real good idea what color to put it with.  Any suggestions on these types of cards?  Is it just preference on my part?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="4974" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T20:56:24.200" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T19:35:14.483" Title="Card Organization: Multi-Color Cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2013-03-12T20:58:55.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizard's numbering system orders the cards alphabetically by colour, taking the following order into account (see pentagon of colours back of card, start at white going clockwise): White-Blue-Black-Red-Green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, hybrid mana cards are listed, then gold-bordered multicoloured cards, then artifacts, then lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accounting for hybrid and multicoloured order, I believe it goes by the same priority. White-Blue cards are listed before White-Blue-Black which is before White-Red, which is before Blue-Red, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I sort my Hybrid/gold cards together by &quot;guild&quot; as in &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Guilds_of_Ravnica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ravnica&lt;/a&gt;, or &quot;shard&quot; as in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shards_of_Alara&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alara&lt;/a&gt;, and then the wacky 4+5 colour together, sorting them in WUBRG order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T20:58:55.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2013-03-12T21:39:54.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I follow the same procedure for organization that my LGS does.  I have a big 4 row box. In each row, I have a set.  So, right now one of my boxes has (in order): Innistrad, Dark Ascension, Avacyn Restored, M13.  What do all of these sets have in common?  They rotate out at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for organizing each set, I follow WoTC's number system, and I put like cards together in penny sleeves (clear sleeves that generally cost $1 per 100). This way, they are organized by color, and then alphabetically.  This makes searching for cards much faster, at least for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the order that WoTC does things is Colorless/White/Blue/Black/Red/Green/Gold/Hybrid/Artifact/Lands.  Also, if you look at the bottom of each card, there is a number associated with it.  For instance, the One Thousand Lashes you linked, is card number 183.  So, it would go 183rd in my box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5039" LastEditorUserId="5039" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T13:07:51.430" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T13:07:51.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2013-03-12T21:55:54.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend against sorting the cards by the first color symbol. It's not going to be as useful that way, especially for hybrid mana. What if you want to put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Militant&quot;&gt;Dryad Militant&lt;/a&gt; in a while deck but you sorted it green, or the other way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I recommend using a system similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/1039&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Return to Ravnica Holiday Gift Box&lt;/a&gt;. It comes with dividers and a sheet of stickers to put on the dividers that classify things in the way magic players often do: it has stickers for the types (sorceries, instants, planeswalkers, etc) and for the guilds and shards, and the vanilla colors. I don't know if there's still boxes available, everywhere I checked they sold like hotcakes, but the system they used is clearly in use (they don't release things like that without doing appropriate market research to determine consumers' needs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note this isn't to say the other answers are bad, just trying to think outside the box. Or inside the box, depending on how you look at it...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T21:55:54.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2013-03-12T22:15:08.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I am ordering cards I order them by number of colors used and the colors themselves or lack of color as the case may be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Single Colors:&#xA;White, Blue, Black, Red, Green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards with no color.&#xA;Artifacts, Different land cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two Colors:&#xA;White/Blue, White/Black, White/Red, White/Green, Blue/Black, Blue/Red, Blue/Green, Black/Red, Black/Green, Red/Green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three Colors:&#xA;White/Blue/Black, White/Blue/Red, White/Blue/Green, White/Black/Red, White/Black/Green, White/Red/Green, Blue/Black/Red, Blue/Black/Green, Blue/Red/Green, Black/Red/Green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four Colors:&#xA;White/Blue/Black/Red, White/Blue/Black/Green, White/Blue/Red/Green, White/Black/Red/Green, Blue/Black/Red/Green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five Colors&#xA;White/Blue/Black/Red/Green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I normally don't group by expansion but that is something that can also be added to help in finding cards that are still legal based on the rule set you are playing. Also if you tend to favor certain colors it would make sense to move them to the front of the grouping order. I just started with white because that was a place to start. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2013-03-12T22:42:28.527" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T22:42:28.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11343" CreationDate="2013-03-12T23:28:31.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having read the other answers, they seem to hit most of the right topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start with a basic formula to get a good idea of what it should cost, perhaps using previous sets examples. (Not as easy if its your first set, mind you...) This is the cost recommended by design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You tweak the card on an individual basis to emphasize or deemphasize particular mechanics and combos. This is usually called 'devign' - it's a stage between design and development. Development may send something back to design, or they may make minor changes in devign.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play the set over and over and over again to make the set balanced. This is development.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in summary that's a great start. But there's something that's very important: Wizard's intentionally makes bad cards. Or do they...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;. It's a killer spell. 3 damage, instant speed, 1 mana. Awesome. Then consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volcanic%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Volcanic Hammer&lt;/a&gt;. Same 3 damage, but sorcery speed and 2 mana. Umm, what happened here? What a bad card. Well, it WOULD be a bad card if that set had Bolt in it, but it didn't. Chances are they had something like Bolt in there, but it was too powerful. Maybe they tried &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; and found that it was still too powerful. So they made it 3 damage again but tacked another mana on it. But then maybe they found it STILL too powerful, so they made it sorcery speed. In 2002, Hammer was seeing tournament play. How could a bad card like that be tournament playable? Because it was balanced, and still a good card. It just wasn't as good as Bolt, so people considered it bad. If they made a card called Super Lightning Bolt, which did 4 damage for 1 at instant speed, everyone would start burning their bolts in a huge fire to make room in the collections for this new one. And then when regular lightning bolt is in a new set, they'll whine about how bad it is compared to super lightning bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then there are other cards that are just... well... bad. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%27s%20Claw&quot;&gt;Dragon&amp;#39;s Claw&lt;/a&gt; is a great example of this. It's really not a good card. You spend two mana and maybe gain four life over the course of the game. Well, those two mana could have gone to a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Headlong%20Rush&quot;&gt;Headlong Rush&lt;/a&gt; that obliterates your opponent's board state. But dragon's claw is a catchy card that new players like. If it cost 1 and you got to draw a card, it might see play. (This was why things like the spellbombs saw some play in Scars - they replace themselves, which is honestly one of the biggest costs to things like dragon's claw.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as you go making your cards, don't think that each card needs to be great. You're always going to have a top 10%, a middle 60%, and a bottom 30% no matter how good you make your cards. So make sure you design them with that in mind from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start reading the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Archive.aspx?tag=Making%20Magic&amp;amp;description=Making%20Magic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making Magic&lt;/a&gt; column. Mark Rosewater spends a lot of time helping other people get better at what he does for a living. Once you've gone through a lot of that, he answers questions on his &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tumbler&lt;/a&gt; and he occasionally entertains questions from aspiring game developers. (Note that he cannot review unsolicited material so your questions need to stay high level.) Every article of Making Magic I've read has helped me as a developer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-03-12T23:28:31.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11480" CreationDate="2013-03-12T23:56:08.973" Score="6" ViewCount="1384" Body="&lt;p&gt;The points are truncated (so it technically has 8 sides). The die cannot come to rest on these small, truncated, sides, which have the opposite large side number printed on their face. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These seem like a much better design for D4s, does anyone know where I can get some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the sort of thing I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZvyS2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something less ornate and thus much cheaper ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5041" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T13:51:41.023" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:51:41.023" Title="Where can I find D4 dice that are truncated tetrahedrons?" Tags="|dice|reference|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T00:44:37.043" Score="10" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would very much like to know the correct ethical procedure for the following play. Hearts are trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;West led a small club&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North played a small club&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East played a small spade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I as South played a Jack of clubs thinking I was taking the trick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, East said &quot;Oh, I have some clubs&quot; and played the Queen of clubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the King of clubs and would have taken the trick given the opportunity. It didn't seem fair for me not to get to play it after East's card was changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I get the chance to take the trick I would have taken or does this trick belong to East?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5042" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T02:28:29.310" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T02:28:29.310" Title="Question on ethics or rules" Tags="|bridge|ethics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11463" CreationDate="2013-03-13T01:25:37.600" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;East reneged (played an out-of-suit card when they had a card of the correct suit), but fixed the error before the next trick; since they're the defender, two things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East's small spade is left face up on the table in front of East. It's a &quot;major penalty&quot; card, and must be played by East as soon as it is legal to do so, on some future trick. (Furthermore, if that card is still face up when West leads, you get to pick whether West &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; lead spades for that trick, or &lt;strong&gt;must not&lt;/strong&gt; lead spades until he loses the lead.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can change the card you played, so that you played the king of clubs and took the trick.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the declarer made an error (you as South, or you playing the dummy North hand), then you get to fix the error, and everyone playing after the corrected player may also change their play. Declarers don't get penalty cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer: you get a chance to take the trick, and there are additional penalties for East playing incorrectly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's an informal game, then maybe you don't worry about the penalty card (how friendly is your game?), but you definitely get to change your play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T17:24:11.027" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T17:24:11.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2013-03-13T01:31:04.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are talking about Crystal Caste dice.  I don't think recommending a particular store is in scope for a stack exchange answer, but the brand name should be plenty to go by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T01:31:04.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11343" CreationDate="2013-03-13T02:37:58.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of great insights here!&#xA;I would like to add: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You tend to get more for your mana if the card is multicolor&lt;/strong&gt;, in exchange for it being harder to cast.  For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWoolly%20Thoctar%5d&quot;&gt;Woolly Thoctar&lt;/a&gt; is a 5/4 at only 3 mana!  A turn 3 5/4 is huge, but at RGW, you either have to be super lucky at having the perfect lands in hand or at the first 2 draws, &amp;amp;/or you are (in draft) spending your first 2 turns playing a boarder post then CiPT tri-lands (while your opponent is playing creatures &amp;amp; swinging).  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKingpin%27s%5d%2b%5bPet%5d&quot;&gt;Kingpin&amp;#39;s Pet&lt;/a&gt; is 1WB Flying 2/2 with a solid ability, while in the same block there is a 3/2 flyer at 3W (Assault Griffin), missing a 2nd ability while missing the 2nd color requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the more generic mana in the casting cost you have, the weaker the spell will be, since it is easier to cast:&#xA;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;type=%20%5BCreature%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bflying%5D&amp;amp;format=%7C%5B%22Return%20to%20Ravnica%20Block%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Return to Ravenca Block&lt;/a&gt;, right now we have:&#xA;4 colorless = 2/2 flyer (Millennial Gargoyle) that anyone can cast.&#xA;3W = 3/2 flyer (Assault Griffin) that anyone who splashes white can cast.&#xA;1WW = 2/2 flyer (Sunspire Griffin) that requires more land dedication in plains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, you can still make the &quot;bottom 30%&quot; of your cards good, though perhaps only situationally (eg draft, or casual multiplayer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4871" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:07:37.237" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:07:37.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2013-03-13T03:11:12.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pick up a bag of Chessex Blank d4s. (It's product number CHX29301, ask your Favorite Local Game Store). Grab a Dremel or Power Sander and take off the points. Then sharpie (or carve) the numbers in by hand. That's going to be your cheap route, unless someone decides to kickstart a project like this. Certainly cheaper than buying 3d printed versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T03:11:12.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11451" CreationDate="2013-03-13T08:24:56.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always use dice, which makes it real easy to keep track even if you have a lot of counter.&#xA;i got something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.awesomedice.com/dice-sets/36d6-dice-sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T08:24:56.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2013-03-13T09:31:26.907" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I agree that Mandatory Quests can be a little unbalancing. I've never played 2-player, but I can see how they could be even worse in that case. I've seen a handful of alternatives, any of which may work for you and your opponent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't use them&lt;/strong&gt;. Remove them from the Intrigue deck beforehand, or discard and draw again if you draw one during the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow, but penalise, completing other quests while they're in play&lt;/strong&gt;. Make them not mandatory. Allow the receiver of the Mandatory Quest to complete other quests, but any VP reward is reduced by, for instance, the VP reward of the Mandatory Quest, until they complete the Mandatory Quest to remove this penalty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow other quests, but penalise taking time over the Mandatory Quest&lt;/strong&gt;. Allow other quests to be completed, but at the end of every one of your turns when you have an incomplete Mandatory Quest in front of you, lose some VP. You could lose 1 VP the first turn, 2 the second and so on, tracking with VP chips if necessary (or think of a flat rate per turn - 2 VP maybe? - if you prefer). You could probably ignore a Mandatory Quest late in the game (when they're most annoying, in my experience), but early Mandatory Quests should be completed before they snowball.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allow counters&lt;/strong&gt;. You can reveal a Mandatory Quest from your hand to cancel out being given one. Both are discarded. This would reduce how often they're played, since you may keep one in your hand in defence.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully one of these suggestions will help you out, or inspire you to come up with your own solution that you feel is right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T09:31:26.907" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11486" CreationDate="2013-03-13T11:25:18.643" Score="3" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Bal-Bas-Beta and Setsuki Hiruki are playing against each other, the moves Steam Vent and Esper Dash have directly conflicting actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steam Vent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start of your turn: Push an opponent from a dark space away from you one space. That opponent &lt;strong&gt;can't dashing strike&lt;/strong&gt; on his next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Esper Dash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You move: You may move again &lt;strong&gt;or dashing strike&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use Steam Vent against my opponent, can he move and use Esper Dash to dashing strike me anyway? Or, if he uses Esper Dash, is he required to take the extra move action, since he can't dashing strike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T15:11:36.887" Title="How do Steam Vent and Esper Dash interact?" Tags="|flash-duel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11463" CreationDate="2013-03-13T12:14:54.380" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reference - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebu.co.uk/publications/Laws%20and%20Ethics%20Publications/2008LAWS.pdf&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge 2007&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament the correct procedure is to summon The Director (Law 9B):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After Attention Is Drawn to an Irregularity&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(a) The Director should be summoned at once when attention is drawn to an irregularity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) Any player, including dummy, may summon the Director after&#xA;  attention has been drawn to an irregularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(c) Summoning the Director does not cause a player to forfeit any&#xA;  rights to which he might otherwise be entitled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(d) The fact that a player draws attention to an irregularity&#xA;  committed by his side does not affect the rights of the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;No player shall take any action until the Director has explained all matters in regard to rectification.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Director (rather than the players) take the appropriate steps to rectify the situation. Laws 61-64 cover revokes (failure to follow suit) and the steps The Director may take to rectify the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing informally, you'll have to sort the situation out yourselves. I'd suggest following Laws 61-64. In the situation you described the following would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;East withdraws his card (if East is defending it becomes a Major Penalty Card), East now plays a legal card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You (South) may withdraw your card and play a different (legal) card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Penalty cards are covered under Law 50. There are various restrictions imposed on you (and potentially your partner) when you have a penalty card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T12:14:54.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-13T14:40:26.430" Score="15" ViewCount="5964" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that there needs to be a wide variety of power levels in Magic: The Gathering. Even bad cards will see play in limited formats, some because they fill a specific niche (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240009&quot;&gt;flying removal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366451&quot;&gt;fat colorless flyer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240025&quot;&gt;providing a counter to certain decks&lt;/a&gt;), and others because those decks can't afford to be too picky. However, some cards are just &lt;strong&gt;unforgivably terrible&lt;/strong&gt;. I'm talking about cards that you would only run in sealed if you had absolutely no other options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=180415&quot;&gt;Mindless Null&lt;/a&gt;: Black 2/2 for 3 with a big disadvantage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=217987&quot;&gt;Defensive Stance&lt;/a&gt;: literally does nothing in exchange for you getting card disadvantage &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366442&quot;&gt;Merfolk of the Depths&lt;/a&gt;: Would still be bad if it only costed 5...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244691&quot;&gt;Archangel's Light&lt;/a&gt;: 8 mana just to gain some life and put cheap cards back into your deck. And it's a mythic rare....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more examples, but I think these best illustrate my case. Obviously I'd rather have these cards in the game than not have them at all, but I feel like Wizards of the Coast could have made Magic a more enjoyable game just by keeping the flavor and making all of these cards a tiny bit better...yet they didn't. Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T12:39:15.753" Title="Why does Wizards of the Coast print terrible MTG cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11473" CreationDate="2013-03-13T15:31:07.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unforseen interaction. I have looked at the comments on gatherer for each of your examples and have come up with specific instances where they would interact positively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defensive stance seems to work pretty well with:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aura%20Gnarlid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aura Gnarlid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It could be useful against weenie infect/wither/deathtouch creatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mindless Null: is immune to lure/forced blocking and at the same cost as scathe zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merfolk of the Depth: Suprise blocker that can trigger your evolve cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Archangel's light: I can see this really pissing off someone playing a mill deck. It would also combo decent with threshold cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T15:31:07.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11473" CreationDate="2013-03-13T15:37:16.947" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;I already posted a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr5&quot;&gt;link to Maro's article&lt;/a&gt;, but here's his summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By definition, some bad cards have to exist. (The most important reason.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards are “bad” because they aren’t meant for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards are “bad” because they’re designed for a less advanced player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards are “bad” because the right deck for them doesn’t exist yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;“Bad” cards reward the more skilled player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some players enjoy discovering good “bad” cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some “bad” cards are simply R&amp;amp;D goofing up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with his &quot;most important reason&quot; very strongly.  If all cards were created equal or almost-equal, then skill-intensive deckbuilding formats such as draft would come down to the luck of the draw, rather than card-analysis skills, a lot more often than they should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-13T16:13:10.433" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T16:13:10.433" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11473" CreationDate="2013-03-13T15:49:42.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers, most cards are designed with limited in mind. Creatures are never dead cards in limited, especially if you are short on creatures in your Simic deck (in Gatecrash limited) or don't care about blockers (i.e. the mindless null).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can also see that certain cards are played in Wizard's Future Future league, where they playtest standard decks with the sets that haven't come out yet and those &quot;unplayable&quot; cards have homes there, but when they release to a wider audience find that the power level they thought was there, just wasn't with the wider sample size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T15:49:42.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2013-03-13T17:39:47.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casinos are much like any other business; if they want, they can tell you that you are no longer welcome for any reason, or no reason at all. There are some exceptions, primarily the Civil Rights Act of 1964 which prevents &quot;places of public accomodation&quot; (basically any property that welcomes the average Joe coming in off the street) from refusing service based on protected statuses such as race, color, creed, etc, but casinos can, and often do, throw someone out just because they were a little too lucky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular case, playing in a way that disrupts the normal flow of the table, such as not playing according to basic strategy, can distract other players, diminishing their experience. That alone is plenty good reason for a pit boss to come over and invite you to play another game, or to ask you to leave altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T17:39:47.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11473" CreationDate="2013-03-13T20:22:08.967" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tom LaPille, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/164&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;When Cards Go Bad, Part 2&lt;/a&gt;, a followup to the first When Good Cards Go Bad article thesunneversets linked, has a few more points that haven't been fully explored yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;###Some cards aren't fun when they're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here he uses the example of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scrambleverse&quot;&gt;Scrambleverse&lt;/a&gt;, which has really cumbersome and complicated mechanics, explaining that it is costed very high so that it doesn't get played often. The only people that play it are the people that &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;###Limited needs to be balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think Limited play is the biggest reason there are &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot; cards in modern MtG. From the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;…there was a meeting when both blue and black were doing much better than we wanted in our playtests. Lead developer Aaron Forsythe decreed that we needed a weak blue card and a weak black card. None of us came up with a blue card that was weak enough, so Aaron created Defensive Stance to fill the hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while Defensive Stance does have some narrow infect-hosing mechanic, it was basically created just to keep blue drafters in &lt;em&gt;New Phyrexia&lt;/em&gt; in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;###Draft needs to be human-processable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting is a complex enough task already without every card being extremely close together in power, so we include plenty of cards of widely differing power levels so that the right answer can be a little bit less ambiguous. This doesn't simplify the task of correctly identifying those power levels—a challenging task in itself!—but it does make deciding between correctly-identified power levels a little bit easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine if every card in a pack had the same power-level. I have a hard enough time deciding between two or three similar power-level cards in a draft. If all cards had a similar power level, each decision becomes stressful and agonizing. Drafts would slow to a crawl. If there are some &amp;quot;last pick&amp;quot; cards and definite common &amp;quot;bombs&amp;quot;, it makes the draft a bit more smooth and manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T20:22:08.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11492" CreationDate="2013-03-13T22:30:58.483" Score="23" ViewCount="103343" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, a card counter is still subject to the same mechanic as any other players, but they are able to perform better then most people within these confines. So why is card counting a justification for casinos to kick people out? Obviously, a card counter will cost them money, but if that is the only justification, then it's like the casino is cheating- they only allow sucky players to play. If you are too good you get thrown out. Is that all there is to it, or is there a valid gameplay justification for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5044" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T15:42:57.033" Title="Why is card counting considered illegal in Blackjack?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11462" CreationDate="2013-03-13T23:08:51.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out you can just select a cheaper material on that 3D printing site. So, whilst it's still more expensive than the usual 50c for a die, given that these type of dice don't seem to be as common as I expected it seems like a reasonable solution in my case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5041" LastActivityDate="2013-03-13T23:08:51.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11512" CreationDate="2013-03-14T00:05:23.143" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mad Zeppelin, you're a Traitor trying to throw cargo off of the airship Nostria to your black-market compatriots on the ground. At the beginning of the turn, the current first player throws three dice, which shows what color of Traitors can throw cargo overboard.  (The idea is that the dice show the &quot;wind direction,&quot; which would be more plausible if the winds weren't capable of blowing north, south, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; west at the same time.) So, on any given turn, a Traitor might or might not be able to throw cargo overboard, depending on the colors showing on the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is well and good until you get to the Crate of Alcohol cargo card; it says that &quot;This card is not thrown overboard.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;Does that mean that a Traitor can play the Crate of Alcohol even if the wind isn't in their favor?&lt;/strong&gt; The rules themselves assume that all cargo cards are &quot;thrown overboard,&quot; so it's a bit confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second thought: if playing the Crate of Alcohol doesn't count as being thrown overboard, does that mean you can also play a second cargo card during that Traitor's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T01:15:41.843" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T18:26:41.287" Title="Can the Crate of Alcohol be played if the wind isn't favorable?" Tags="|mad-zeppelin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11513" CreationDate="2013-03-14T00:10:09.657" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mad Zeppelin, during each turn, each player gets two chances to play a Traitor card and take actions with that Traitor. Each traitor searches for cargo and gold, then activates their ability and/or throws cargo overboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact phrasing for throwing cargo is just slightly vague, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Throw Cargo overboard. If your current Traitor’s color has been rolled on the dice, show a Cargo card from your hand. You must then pay Gold to the Safe equal to the number of Gold coins on the card.This represents bribing the ever-present guards on the Nostria. After paying the guards, the Cargo card is “thrown overboard.” Keep it face-up in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this mean only throwing one cargo overboard per Traitor played, or can a Traitor throw cargo overboard more than once per turn?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T00:26:41.417" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T00:26:41.417" Title="Can I throw more than one cargo overboard during a single Traitor's turn?" Tags="|mad-zeppelin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11489" CreationDate="2013-03-14T01:21:34.097" Score="4" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alien Frontiers has been carefully designed to prevent any player from being reduced to two ships: you can't use the Terraforming Station (which converts one of your ships into a colony) if you only have three ships, and you can't use the Plasma Cannon to destroy somebody's ship unless they have at least four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use the Plasma Cannon on someone with four ships, if one of those ships is sitting on the Terraforming Station (thus reducing them to three ships when their turn comes around, or two if you use the Plasma Cannon)? Are there any other ways to reduce someone to two ships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T04:45:59.127" Title="Can you ever get a player down to just 2 ships?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11488" CreationDate="2013-03-14T01:44:51.573" Score="2" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;The House of Wonder says you can spend 2 gold to get either a cleric or a wizard.  If I have 4 gold, can I get 2 of those adventurers in one turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T04:34:41.297" Title="Can you spend more than 2 gold on the House of Wonder to purchase more than one Cleric or Wizard?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11491" CreationDate="2013-03-14T01:46:42.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1149" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of the first round, if The Waymoot is one of three starting buildings, do you put 4 VP on it (i.e. 3 from the building description and 1 from the VP on the 1st round area)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T03:10:20.727" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T03:16:58.250" Title="Does the Waymoot get 4 VPs if it shows up on the 1st round?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11471" CreationDate="2013-03-14T02:06:20.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Sirlin (the creator of the game):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all my games and also in MtG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an ability says &amp;quot;You can do X&amp;quot; and another ability says &amp;quot;You can't do X,&amp;quot; then &amp;quot;You &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; do X&amp;quot; takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Steam Vents &lt;strong&gt;would&lt;/strong&gt; prevent Setsuki from using her Esper Dash to use a dashing strike on the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Sirlin's answer was originally posted &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasystrike.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-do-steam-vent-and-esper-dash-interact.7542/#post-225731&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but these forums have since been removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-07-18T15:11:36.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2013-03-14T02:18:17.843" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card counting isn't considered illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; Casinos have the right to deny service to anyone, and of makes sense to deny players from playing a game in which they have an advantage versus the house. This isn't  cheating in any sense of the word. 994 P.2d 1151 (2000) &lt;a href=&quot;http://scholar.google.com/scholar_case?case=13019089328489346495&quot;&gt;CHEN v. NEVADA STATE GAMING CONTROL BOARD&lt;/a&gt; and Monte Carlo Resort &amp;amp; Casino:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This case presents a conflict between two inconsistent public policies that have developed over the years with regard to the gaming industry. On one hand, gaming establishments have the unquestioned right to protect themselves against so-called &quot;card counters&quot; who have developed expertise in the game of &quot;blackjack&quot; (&quot;twenty-one&quot;). On the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;neither card counting nor the use of a legal subterfuge such as a disguise to gain access to this table game is illegal under Nevada law&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;cheat &lt;em&gt;transitive verb&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 : to deprive of something valuable by the use of deceit or fraud &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 : to influence or lead by deceit, trick, or artifice &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 : to elude or thwart by or as if by outwitting  intransitive verb &#xA;1 a : to practice fraud or trickery b : to violate rules dishonestly   [...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T02:18:17.843" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11484" CreationDate="2013-03-14T04:34:41.297" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No you cannot spend more than 2 Gold, yes you get 2 Adventurers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/downloads/dnd/DnD_LOW_Rulebook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules (page 5)&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Assign Agent&lt;/strong&gt; require that a building has an unoccupied action space to place your Agent. Immediately below that, the parts of a &lt;strong&gt;Basic Building&lt;/strong&gt; are diagramed, showing what an &lt;strong&gt;Action Space&lt;/strong&gt; looks like. On page 8, the &lt;strong&gt;House of Wonder&lt;/strong&gt; is detailed, showing a single Action Space and the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action: &lt;strong&gt;Spend 2 Gold ( G G ), and then take 2 Adventurers&lt;/strong&gt; from the supply and place them in your Tavern. These Adventurers can be only Clerics ( C ) or Wizards ( W ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes you get 2 Adventurers with spending 2 Gold. You cannot get 4 Adventurers, because the Action Space would be occupied by your first agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assign Agent&lt;/strong&gt; - If you have any Agents in your pool, you assign 1 of them. To assign an Agent, &lt;strong&gt;place it on any unoccupied action space of a Building&lt;/strong&gt;, whether a basic Building or one that has been put into play. You cannot place an Agent on an action space that contains another Agent (yours or another player’s) or on Buildings that are not yet in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you assign an Agent, follow the instructions for that action space. You take that action just once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T04:34:41.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11483" CreationDate="2013-03-14T04:45:59.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5725968#5725968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;David MacKenzie of Clever Mojo Games&lt;/a&gt; clarified this point in a FAQ on BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: The RED player has four red ships on the board...one on the Lunar Mine, two on the Orbital Market, and one on the Terraforming Station. GREEN discards his Plasma Cannon card and removes the red ship from the Lunar Mine.On RED's next turn, the ship on the Terraforming Station returns to the shipyard stock and RED is left with only two ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is a legal move by a strict reading of the rules.&lt;/strong&gt;. [...] However, it breaks the intent of the rules, which is to insure that no player has fewer than three ships of their own color. During play testing we found it nearly impossible to recover after being reduced to only two ships, so we tried to insure that it would not happen. It now seems that we missed one situation that could lead to this exact problem. The cure is to adjust the wording of the Plasma Cannon's discard power as follows...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plasma Cannon&lt;/strong&gt; - You may discard a Plasma Cannon to return one ship belonging to another player to the ship stock. &lt;strong&gt;The target player must not be reduced to less than three ships of their own color for use on their next turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a rule book edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RED has four ships on the board...one on the Lunar Mine, two on the Orbital Market, and one on the Terraforming Station. GREEN would like to discard a Plasma Cannon to attack RED and removed the RED ship from the Lunar Mine, but cannot because doing so would leave RED with only two ships after the RED ship on the Terraforming Station returns to the shipyard stock next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T04:45:59.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11493" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:23:32.023" Score="2" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have an Orbital Teleporter and a Stasis Beam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I roll 5,5,6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have 3 ore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I place the 6 at the Solar Array to claim 3 energy, then use the Orbital Teleporter to move the 6 to the Colony Constructor. I use the Stasis Beam to reduce it from a 6 to a 5, then place the other two fives and pay three ore to use the Colony Constructor to place a colony.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this legal, or am I not allowed to alter a ship I'm moving with the Orbital Teleporter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T13:08:48.537" Title="Can you combine the Orbital Teleporter's ability with other Alien Tech cards?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11485" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:24:18.220" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Waymoot would only get 1 VP Tokens placed on it, since it isn't in play.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Builder's Hall&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/downloads/dnd/DnD_LOW_Rulebook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(page 12) of the rules&lt;/a&gt; tells you to take the 3 VP Tokens for the round, and distribute one to each building tile for purchase. &lt;strong&gt;The Waymoot&lt;/strong&gt; has special rules text that takes effect at the When Purchased/Start of Round, but this only occurs if it is &amp;quot;in play.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When Purchased and at Start of Round&lt;/strong&gt;: Place 3 VP tokens on this space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once on page 8 under &lt;strong&gt;Start of Round&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Start of Round&lt;/strong&gt; - The rounds track on the game board starts out with 3 VP tokens [...] remove the 3 VP tokens from that round’s space and place 1 VP token on each face-up Building in Builder’s Hall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When Purchased/Start of Round&lt;/strong&gt;: Some Building tiles have special instructions to be followed when the Building is purchased and at the start of each round. If any of those Buildings &lt;strong&gt;are in play&lt;/strong&gt;, follow the start-of-round instructions for each.(See Appendix 1: Buildings on page 12 for descriptions of these effects.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all start-of-round effects are complete, players take turns in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the same page under &lt;strong&gt;Assign Agent&lt;/strong&gt;, they define what it means for a building to be in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assign Agent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have any Agents in your pool, you assign 1 of them. To assign an Agent, place it on any unoccupied action space of a Building, whether a basic Building or one that has been put into play. You cannot place an Agent on an action space that contains another Agent (yours or another player’s) or on Buildings that are not yet in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-25T03:16:58.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:32:35.983" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a little addition to the previous answer: Imagine you have the opportunity to play blackjack against a thousand people. You have a few advantages, but also have to play by strict and predictable conventions, but the thousand can play in any manner they choose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also know that one of those thousand is capable of card-counting. You wouldn't risk your money betting against someone with such an advantage would you? You'd stick with the odds, and play only the other 999. A perfectly sensible and logical position, which is, in essence, the same position the casino takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4946" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T05:32:35.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11490" CreationDate="2013-03-14T05:44:37.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, while there is no restriction on using different alien tech on the same ship, the rules for &lt;strong&gt;Orbital Teleporter&lt;/strong&gt; specifically prevent a ship already placed from having its value changed when moved to another facility. &lt;strong&gt;Stasis Beam&lt;/strong&gt; also doesn't work on placed ships. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/56373/alien-frontiers-rules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules, page 14&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Orbital Teleporter&lt;/strong&gt; - Each turn you may pay two fuel to move one of your docked ships from one orbital facility to a different orbital facility. You may only move one of your ships with the Orbital Teleporter but the moved ship may be used at the new facility in conjunction with other as yet unplaced ships from your fleet. You may not reuse the ship at the same facility from which it was removed. &lt;strong&gt;You may not change the value of the ship as it moves from one facility to the other.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stasis Beam&lt;/strong&gt; - Each turn you may pay one fuel to decrease the value of one &lt;strong&gt;of your unplaced ships&lt;/strong&gt; by one point. You may discard a Stasis Beam to place the Isolation Field on a territory or, if the Isolation Field is already on a territory, move it to another territory. (Page 15)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/68154/alien-tech-card-player-reference-versions-2-2-and&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Card Reference (scans)&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/71447/condensed-card-reference&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;card reference 2&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Orbital Teleporter&lt;/strong&gt; - Pay (E E) to reuse one of your ships at a different facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stasis Beam&lt;/strong&gt; - Pay (E) to subtract one point &lt;strong&gt;from one of your unplaced ship&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you could achieve what it is you want by using one of your '5's on the Solar Collector, since it also gets you 3 energy. Then use the Stasis Beam to change the '6' to a '5', then use the remaining 2 energy to move the '5' from the Solar Collector with your remaining '5' and newly Stasis Beamed '5' onto the &lt;strong&gt;Colony Constructor.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T13:08:48.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11456" CreationDate="2013-03-14T15:24:40.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I think how you organize really depends on what you want to do with your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you like to look at your collection for inspiration when building decks, try organizing cards by color and then by function — keep all of your blue counterspells together, keep all of your black creature removal together, group your red creatures by their mana costs so you can easily plan around a curve. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/collections-storage-bruce-richard-01042013-card-management-a-k-a-how-you-find-your-cards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's an example of someone doing this with a very large set of cards&lt;/a&gt;. Group multicolor cards by their color combinations (and function as well) so that it's easy to see look for cards that match the colors of a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you mostly use other resources, like Gatherer, to choose cards, then you can optimize for finding individual cards quickly instead. This means you'll likely want to organize alphabetically or by set and serial number (don't do anything special for multi-color cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alphabetic organization may be better if you're likely to have lots of different editions of the same card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Organizing by set and serial number doesn't involve shifting as many cards when you get new ones, but you might have to search slightly longer for often-reprinted cards (alternatively, move them all up to the most recent set when they get reprinted — e.g. both the Mirage and Innistrad versions of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissipate&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt; just go in the Innistrad section).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, you don't really have to do anything special for multi-color cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like to spend a lot of time organizing or have a hard time keeping cards in order, try organizing color, or by block and color (and not alphabetically, because it's too much work). It'll take you a bit longer to find individual cards, but it's really easy to put cards back after you've taken them out. Group multicolor cards by color combinations; in most cases you can just put the hybrid cards in their matching multi-color category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you tend to mainly build competitive-oriented decks, it makes sense to separate out your &amp;quot;staples&amp;quot; — cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; — so you have an easy time grabbing the cards you expect to use most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of what else you do, if you play Standard, you'll also want to organize by sets, because it's easy to handle rotation that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T15:24:40.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11496" CreationDate="2013-03-14T15:53:55.490" Score="11" ViewCount="14362" Body="&lt;p&gt;If player A has a creature, and then on player B's turn, he/she uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; on it, and then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;, does that card, once it has been cloudshift-ed, return to the battlefield under the control of player B, and thus, not return to A after B's turn has finished?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that the card will be under player B's control until the end of the game/ or until the creature in question has been put into the graveyard or removed from play - because, Act of Treason states that you 'gain control of target creature until the end of turn' but cloudshift states that you 'exile target creature you control, then return that card to the battlefield under your control.'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts? Can this be done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5049" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T16:23:29.797" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T04:05:48.333" Title="After using Act of Treason and Cloudshift, does a creature re-enter the battlefield under my control?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11495" CreationDate="2013-03-14T16:07:46.673" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It works just as you hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previous &quot;flicker&quot; effects returned the target to play &quot;under its owner's control&quot;.  Cloudshift returns it to play &quot;under your control&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Act of Treason gave you control of the creature, making it a valid target for Cloudshift.  Cloudshift returns it into play under your control, and with no memory of its previous life as either the opponent's creature, or of having had Act of Treason cast on it.  It's yours for keeps, or at least until the game ends or another control-changing effect takes place...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-14T19:33:30.280" LastActivityDate="2013-03-14T19:33:30.280" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11499" CreationDate="2013-03-14T19:32:05.220" Score="4" ViewCount="13605" Body="&lt;p&gt;While grabbing some booster packs today I saw a Booster Battle Pack.  Looked them up online to see what they were and grabbed one.  Doing the math, I determined the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Booster Pack - $0.26 / card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battle Pack - $0.13 / card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would I ever buy a regular Booster pack?  Seems like it makes more sense to always buy the battle packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:45:43.863" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T03:01:19.343" Title="Why should I buy Booster Packs over Battle Packs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11498" CreationDate="2013-03-14T19:39:06.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My thought is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/739&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battle Packs&lt;/a&gt; have two &quot;semi-randomized&quot; decks, so the extra $2 your spending isn't really worth the extra content. The semi-random decks won't contain rares, so the extra $2 isn't going to get you extra value in the form of chances to pull money rares. It will just get you more cards. For most players, this isn't enough incentive. Spend another $2 beyond the Battle Pack, you'd get a third booster and another chance at a quality rare. However, in your situation where you're trying to teach your 12-year-old-son, this is a good way to see some color-specific mechanics and cheaply play around with color combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you might consider is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/dbt/productinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deck Builder Toolkit&lt;/a&gt;. Similar to the Battle Packs, for around $20 these contain 125 semi-random commons and uncommons, 4 packs from various sets, and 100 basic land (20 of each type). From a cost perspective, you'd be looking at $0.11 per card if you don't put cost on the basic land. But once again, the semi-randomized cards reduce overall value since there is no chance for money rares. The extra $4 gets you more cards, but not more value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T17:12:23.653" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T17:12:23.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2013-03-14T22:30:00.687" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card counting ISN'T illegal. (Unless you use a &quot;device&quot; such as a computer to do so in Nevada, which is a felony under Nevada law.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card counting is frowned upon because it violates the UNWRITTEN &quot;law&quot; (that the casino is supposed to have the edge). From the CASINO's point of view, it is a case of &quot;if this isn't illegal, it ought to be.&quot; Hence they take measures such as barring, or harassing card counters, which go to the border (and sometimes beyond) the law. But Nevada courts do tend to side with the casinos for economic reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player played &quot;Basic&quot; (optimal) strategy, and &quot;flat bet,&quot; (bet the same on every hand), the casino would have an edge of about 1%. What card counters do is to watch for a handful of situations that come up occasionally, where the player is favored. Then they &quot;jump&quot; their bets by five or ten times to take advantage of these situations, and bet a &quot;basic&quot; unit at other times, shifting the odds in their favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation of this is &quot;team&quot; play, whereby a team of counters will &quot;spread&quot; among the tables, watching for favorable situations, and making a minimum bet of say, $10 a hand. This is a form of &quot;trolling.&quot; When the cards get &quot;good,&quot; they will signal a well dressed team mate called a &quot;big player&quot; to come to &quot;their&quot; table, and make &quot;outsized&quot; bets of $50 or $100, or even $500-$1000 (these situations are rare enough that you will seldom have two &quot;good&quot; tables at a time). This strategy calls for the big player to &quot;table hop&quot; in a seemingly random fashion (but actually based on signals from his teammates). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, &quot;trolling&quot; and &quot;table hopping,&quot; whether or not for the purpose of making money, while not illegal, are socially gauche. So casinos will eject players for that kind of behavior alone, whether or not connected with card counting. (And the assumption is that most people would not engage in that kind of behavior unless they are card counting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card counter Kenny Uston won a court case in New Jersey that prohibits Atlantic City casinos from barring or harassing card counters. They are allowed to take &quot;defensive&quot; measures such as shuffling up after every deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T00:59:02.603" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T00:59:02.603" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11505" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:05:27.263" Score="1" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I am playing modern BW tokens and have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214064&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hero of Bladehold&lt;/a&gt; on the field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=Zealous%20Persecution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zealous Persecution&lt;/a&gt; in my main phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the tokens created my my Hero also get the +1/+1 bonus from the Persecution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T14:30:47.587" Title="Do my creatures get a boon from previously played spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11504" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:11:17.293" Score="9" ViewCount="1776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I take a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366391&quot;&gt;Consuming Aberration&lt;/a&gt; with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366305&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;. Consuming Aberration says: Consuming Aberration's power and toughness are each equal to the number of cards in your opponents' graveyards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, which graveyard do we count to determine how big the Consuming Aberration is in this instance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T19:26:27.340" Title="How big is a Consuming Aberration after it is stolen with Act of Treason?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11503" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:16:08.240" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would count the cards of the graveyards of the opponents of whoever controls the Consuming Aberration. &quot;You&quot; in Static Abilities, such as the one setting Consuming Aberration's power and toughness, refer to the controller of that card. Act of Treason gives you control of the creature, so the Static Abilities are yours. Per the Magic Comp rules (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.5. The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller&#xA;  (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). &lt;strong&gt;For a&#xA;  static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on.&lt;/strong&gt; For an activated ability, this is the&#xA;  player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the&#xA;  ability triggered, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T19:26:27.340" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T19:26:27.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11502" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:30:47.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the token creatures aren't on the battlefield when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zealous%20Persecution&quot;&gt;Zealous Persecution&lt;/a&gt; resolves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won’t change. (Note that this works differently than a continuous effect from a static ability.) A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability that doesn’t modify the characteristics or change the controller of any objects modifies the rules of the game, so it can affect objects that weren’t affected when that continuous effect began. If a single continuous effect has parts that modify the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects and other parts that don’t, the set of objects each part applies to is determined independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; An effect that reads “&lt;strong&gt;All white creatures get +1/+1 until end of turn” gives the bonus to all permanents that are white creatures when the spell or ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;— even if they change color later—and doesn’t affect those that enter the battlefield or turn white afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, any of your opponents creatures that enter the battlefield after Zealous Persecution resolves don't get -1/-1 either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T14:30:47.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11508" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:49:46.053" Score="-8" ViewCount="1558" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you usually determine which player goes first in Android Netrunner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2589" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:14:32.497" Title="How do you determine who goes first in Android Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11506" CreationDate="2013-03-15T14:55:30.163" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 12 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;core rule book&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Corporation always takes the first turn of the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T13:14:32.497" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:14:32.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11275" CreationDate="2013-03-15T15:49:32.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right that the Action Phase is unique to the Brood Wars Expansion. A quick search of the phrase &quot;Action Phase&quot; in the digital version of both rule books only turned up results in the Brood Wars version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you, I found a lot of people saying that the Action Phase was synonymous with the Execution Phase (example &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/373598/recharge-once-per-action-phase&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). The most convincing piece of evidence is straight from the Fantasy Flight Games forums. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=6&amp;amp;efcid=28&amp;amp;efidt=305154&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; is answered by saying that the Action Phase is identical to the Execution Phase, but since it's on the game designer's website, I would imagine a moderator would have corrected it had it been wrong. It looks like questions are answered by people from FFG at least occasionally, so they are probably looking in on rules questions to make sure information was correct. Not the solid answer you were looking for, but I think it confirms the two are the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T12:05:02.473" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T12:05:02.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11514" CreationDate="2013-03-15T15:50:50.703" Score="4" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;Castle Panic's &quot;Drive Him Back&quot; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play this card and move 1 Monster all the way back into the Forest, keeping it in the same numbered arc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that monster then stay there during the next immediate Phase 5: Move Monsters?  Or does that monster go ahead and move to the archers ring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-15T15:57:46.547" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T05:13:50.717" Title="Does &quot;Drive Him Back!&quot; also prevent advancement of the monster on this turn?" Tags="|castle-panic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11498" CreationDate="2013-03-15T17:09:54.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find the Gatecrash and Return to Ravnica Booster Battle Packs a little more helpful. Each of the semi-randomized packs are geared toward one of the ten guilds and include that guild's Guildgate, a land that can produce mana of either of the guild's colors. While those are not valuable cards, they can definitely help you build up a solid mana base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T17:09:54.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11481" CreationDate="2013-03-15T18:26:41.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A user on Board Game Geek sent a list of questions to the game designer, and the purpose of the Crate of Alcohol was included. A full list of these can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/551923/rules-additions-from-the-designer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the Crate of Alcohol, game designer Oliver Pauwels replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Crate of Alcohol&quot; pay 3 gold coins (as indicated on the bottom of the card) to activate this effect. Once you've paid the fee, the card is placed in front of you and stays there for the rest of the game. This does not give you any points, but it does lower your cost to throw cargo overboard for the rest of the game. A player can have more than one Crate of Alcohol in play, and the effects are cumulative (so two of them would reduce the cost of all cargo being thrown overboard by 2). Since no level 4 cargo are ever thrown overboard, this cost reduction NEVER applies to level 4 cards (for instance, a 2nd Crate of Alcohol still costs 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the Crate of Alcohol is a Level 4 cargo. Pauwels also notes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[T]he level 4 are special cargo. NONE of these cargo are thrown overboard and as such the color of the die rolls do NOT apply to use of level 4 cards (use them any time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it doesn't matter what color die you roll, but they are never counted as being thrown overboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T18:26:41.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11482" CreationDate="2013-03-15T18:28:44.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; Per a post on Board Game Geek where game designer Oliver Pauwels &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/551923/rules-additions-from-the-designer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;responded to concerns&lt;/a&gt; about the vagueness of the rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can more than one cargo be thrown off in a single round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, as long as you have enough gold to pay : )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T18:28:44.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11510" CreationDate="2013-03-15T19:34:22.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the rules state that all Monsters move ahead in Phase 5 (and there is nothing specifically stating that this one should not move), I see no reason why it wouldn't move along with all the other monsters. That's how my group has always played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1547" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T19:34:22.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11438" CreationDate="2013-03-15T21:46:09.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like other executives, dealers, pit bosses, and &quot;floor (wo)men&quot; in casinos are concerned about &quot;career risk.&quot; This could occur if they lose too much money to the &quot;public&quot; for the casino. Hence the concern about card counters, who will &quot;make money&quot; off the casino (or at least have a positive &quot;expectation.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example of the person who drew a three to 18 against the dealer's 20, the casino clearly lost money. Hence its executives investigated why it happened. The answer was different from what they expected. Apparently, the player was not card counting. Nor was he running the usual cheat (bribing the dealer to tip him off). Questioning established that the two did not know each other before that day. And the player identified the inadvertent &quot;tell,&quot; smugness, that the casino executives had also observed, but did not appreciate the meaning of.) So the dealer was sternly warned to &quot;tighten up&quot; his body language. He did, and all was well. Nowadays, dealers are not allowed to peek at their hole cards before all the players have played and they play, so they won't have these tells. (An electronic buzzer will alert them to the fact that they have a Blackjack, the identification of which was their rationale for peeking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would casino personnel throw out people on &quot;suspicion?&quot; That's a gray area. &quot;Splitting tens&quot; is either a very bad play or (occasionally) a very good play. In any event, it is &quot;sophisticated,&quot; which is something that the casino personnel don't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the publication of Ben Mezrich's &quot;Bringing Down the House,&quot; about card counters from MIT, casinos reportedly hired detectives to round up MIT yearbooks and otherwise spy on incoming classes of MIT students. That's not an established fact, but it does illustrate how antsy some casino executives might get. Would they throw out someone for admitting to being a math or computer science major, and hence a potential card counter? Who knows? Unfortunately, those facts alone might meet some people's definition of &quot;skilled player.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T21:46:09.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11524" CreationDate="2013-03-15T22:09:31.583" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ninja Burger, you can pick up various forms of training (such as &lt;em&gt;Training Course: Combat&lt;/em&gt;), which give you a permanent +1 bonus to a skill (and can be used as an auto-success if played in response to failing a roll). They have one last line of text: &lt;strong&gt;If your current character is lost, discard this card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work with the card &lt;em&gt;Extremely Clever Disguise&lt;/em&gt;, which lets you discard your character and pick a new one? (Because you've just been &lt;em&gt;disguised&lt;/em&gt; as your old character until now.) You're not exactly &quot;losing&quot; your ninja, but you do discard the old character card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T20:20:22.493" Title="Does the Extremely Clever Disguise discard your Training cards?" Tags="|ninja-burger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11528" CreationDate="2013-03-15T22:14:00.123" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ninja Burger, you can play the card &lt;em&gt;Only A Test&lt;/em&gt; in response to failing a mission; it turns out that your manager was just testing you, and does not blame you for failing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does that affect the end-of-round honor bonuses and penalties? There's normally an extra Honor penalty if only one person fails, and there's an honor bonus if &lt;em&gt;everyone&lt;/em&gt; succeeds. If &lt;em&gt;Only A Test&lt;/em&gt; hid your failure, can you prevent everyone from getting the honor bonus if everyone else succeeded? Similarly, if your &quot;test&quot; is the only failure, do you lose the &quot;additional&quot; Honor even if you didn't lose Honor for failing the mission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Full text of &lt;em&gt;Only A Test:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Play this card immediately after you fail a mission. It was only a test! You suffer&#xA;no loss of Honor or other penalties. Your manager made the task very difficult in order&#xA;to evaluate you and sharpen your skills, and he does not blame you for failing.&#xA;You cannot use this card to save yourself from a failed Errand!&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T17:40:12.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T17:40:12.697" Title="How does Only A Test affect the end-of-round honor bonuses/penalties?" Tags="|ninja-burger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11519" CreationDate="2013-03-15T23:13:37.917" Score="2" ViewCount="3620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366316&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merciless Eviction&lt;/a&gt; from a booster, and it states that you can choose one and then exile all artifacts, creatures, enchantments or planeswalkers. Does this mean that all instances in graveyards and in players' decks actually get removed as well as cards on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5049" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T23:36:15.743" Title="Merciless Eviction, how far does all go?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11518" CreationDate="2013-03-15T23:31:12.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;No.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the rules text specifically mentions cards in another zone, only permanents (cards on the battlefield and tokens) are affected by spells and effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule reference&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &amp;quot;card,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;spell,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;source,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;scheme,&amp;quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-15T23:36:15.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2013-03-16T06:02:53.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rubber and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contract_bridge&quot;&gt;Contract bridge&lt;/a&gt; aren't two different types. Rubber bridge is a form of Contract bridge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are essentially two forms of contract bridge these days&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duplicate_bridge&quot;&gt;Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rubber_bridge&quot;&gt;Rubber Bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both forms (i.e. contract), for one deal, there is a 52 card deck dealt, the players do the bidding to determine the level and trump (or no trump), and depending of whether they are declaring or defending, they either try to make or break the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences come in the mechanics around a set of deals, and how the deals are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber is mainly geared towards four players playing for money, and most of its quirks might have been derived from whist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duplicate is the form of bridge more prevalent these days and tournaments are held using that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;raw&lt;/em&gt; scoring for a particular deal is almost the same in both rubber and duplicate: Declaring side makes 20 points for clubs/diamonds (i.e. if they chose clubs/diamonds as trump), 30 for hearts/spades (if trumps). 40 for the first no trump, and 30 for the rest.&#xA;Defending side gets 50 or 100 points for each undertrick. They get a 100 if the declaring side is vulnerable, which is determined differently between rubber and duplicate. The contract could get doubled and redoubled which might affect the score, but I suggest you ignore that for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100 points makes a game, and in order to get the game bonus you need to bid to the appropriate level and make it. Similarly you have the small slam and grand slam bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the raw scoring for Rubber and Duplicate comes in the bonuses calculation I believe (part score bonus, redoubled overtricks etc). I suggest you don't worry too much about those differences for now, and just remember the 20/30/40 and 100 for game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In duplicate this raw gets converted to a different score, depending on the kind of duplicate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In rubber, the raw scores get added up in various ways, in addition to rubber specific bonuses, and if you are playing for money, gets converted to money! :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a beginner, I would suggest you forget about the scoring (apart from what was said above) and concentrate on the play first, and then the bidding, for a single deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 30 making game scoring is probably an ancient form of bridge called auction bridge. I suggest you ignore that (and please check the publication dates of the books you read).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped clarify some.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T06:02:53.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11523" CreationDate="2013-03-16T07:29:38.660" Score="2" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several cards and powers that can change what skill is being used to pass a task: Incredible Ninja Leap uses Climbing for any skill, among others. (&quot;I don't need to disguise myself to get past the Vatican tourists, I just leap over them from a nearby building!&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does changing the skill you roll do to modifiers to the original skill roll?&lt;/strong&gt; If your mission has a Combat test, and one of your opponents plays &quot;Slipped!&quot; on you to give -3 to your next Combat roll (i.e., this roll), but you change the skill to Climbing, does that -3 still apply to your roll? If there's a whole-mission penalty to Combat (such as &quot;-2 to all Combat rolls on this mission&quot;), does it still apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T12:22:25.833" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T12:29:04.583" Title="When you change the skill used, do any modifiers for the original skill still count?" Tags="|ninja-burger|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2013-03-16T13:49:15.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People block all the time but it is nice to agree upfront whether blocking is on the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5058" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T13:49:15.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11521" CreationDate="2013-03-16T17:10:33.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modifiers related to the old skill are discarded and don't count, unless they are Mission bonuses/penalties.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/ninjaburger/img/rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skill Substitution&lt;/strong&gt;: Some special abilities and cards allow the ninja to substitute one skill for another. In this case, the roll is against the new skill. &lt;strong&gt;If the Mission card specified bonuses or penalties to the roll, they still apply to the new skill. However, cards relating to the old skill can no longer be used (and if they had already been used, they are discarded without effect).&lt;/strong&gt; For instance, “Little Kids Watching” affects Disguise skill. If you sub- stitute another skill for Disguise, then “Little Kids Watching” can no longer affect that roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your first example, the new skill is Climbing not combat, so your opponents -3 Combat modifier doesn't apply and is discarded. In your second example, the mission is specifying a -2 Combat modifier, its -2 Mission penalty continues to apply to the new skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T12:29:04.583" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T12:29:04.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11516" CreationDate="2013-03-16T20:20:22.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You discard &lt;strong&gt;Training Course: Combat&lt;/strong&gt;, because the rules text on the card specify, &quot;If your current character is lost, discard this card.&quot; It did not specify how you lost it, only that you did. If it had said, &quot;If your current character is lost, because you have no honor, discard this card.&quot; you would have a different answer. In general, I would play cards as written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Have No Honor!&lt;/strong&gt; -If your Honor is zero at the end of a round, you must apologize to your ancestors. This requires you to go to visit them, and unfortunately it will not be possible for you to come back. Discard all your cards and money. Now draw a new Ninja card and three Fortune cards . . . and see if your new character does better than your last one! You start with 6 Honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-16T20:20:22.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11527" CreationDate="2013-03-17T01:18:35.840" Score="4" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing some reading on deck building and I'm getting the feeling that using the RtR and GC expansions are better mixed in with a solid M13 deck.  However, I can't really confirm this anywhere, which is why I'm asking here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been focusing my booster pack purchases on RtR and GTC but I think I need to spend some more M13 time if this is the case.  Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="3156" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T14:42:49.693" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T21:09:12.620" Title="Is it better to start with M13 and splash in RtR and GTC when building a deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-17T02:46:43.300" Score="5" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone played Castle Panic with 6 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried and I think that the rules don't make sense. With more players you actually need more cards, not fewer. Sure you can trade two cards, but even if you use all your cards each turn, the amount of damage just won't equate to the amount of hit-points of the incoming monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you house rule the number of cards? If so, how many?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5060" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T16:48:14.940" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T07:18:28.700" Title="How is 6-player Castle Panic (with wizard tower) supposed to work?" Tags="|castle-panic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11525" CreationDate="2013-03-17T06:17:05.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, whichever option you choose, this is no big deal. Expansions and core sets released together are designed to play well with each other. But core sets are also designed to be reasonable stand-alone products.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Learning Magic&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Core sets are designed to help you learn Magic.&lt;/strong&gt; The mix of cards is targeted towards newer players. The creatures and spells are generally about as powerful as the ones in expansions, but many of the lower-rarity cards are simpler. In particular, you're less likely to find surprising or &amp;quot;counterintuitive&amp;quot; mechanics that change the basic resource relationships in the game; cards are also less likely to have difficult requirements or restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is no one-size-fits-all approach. In my experience, new players learn best when they're interested and excited about the game, regardless of what exactly it is that they're doing. &lt;strong&gt;The expansion sets are more complex but not &lt;em&gt;overwhelmingly&lt;/em&gt; so.&lt;/strong&gt; If you're really excited by the idea of taxing your opponent to death, for example, then by all means, grab that (Gatecrash) Orzhov intro deck — there may be a bit more up-front complexity in figuring out how to use the cards well, but your enthusiasm will also help you get up the learning curve faster. My wife learned to play just fine with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/547&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Myr of Mirrodin&lt;/a&gt;, an expansion intro deck; the deck's strategy just clicked naturally for her, so within two or three games she was already making substantive improvements using cards from boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complexity difference is most noticeable in drafting. &lt;strong&gt;Core-set drafts tend to be much more forgiving&lt;/strong&gt;, with more of a focus on deckbuilding fundamentals like building your deck around a mana curve and choosing cards that support a consistent game plan. Drafting an expansion set well, in contrast, tends to demand a good understanding of the internal synergies and idiosyncracies of the enrivonment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Building a strong deck&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards in expansion sets like Return to Ravnica aren't necessarily any more powerful than cards in the core set. Core sets usually have the &amp;quot;basic&amp;quot; version of an effect, whereas expansion sets tend to feature a modified version that plays to the set's mechanical themes (compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissipate&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt;, for instance). However, there are always at least a few high-powered staples in core sets — cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Leak&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Farseek&quot;&gt;Farseek&lt;/a&gt; — as well as powerhouse &amp;quot;bomb&amp;quot; cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sun%20Titan&quot;&gt;Sun Titan&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thragtusk&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament decks pretty much universally have cards from a lot of different sets&lt;/strong&gt;, because being able to cherrypick the best cards available gives players a competitive edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Specific themes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One area where the expansion sets really shine is exploring specific themes. Core sets often have some themed cards, like the different Soldiers in M13, but with fewer cards than a full block and less specialized mechanics, they don't go as deep as the expansions do. If you want to build a graveyard-abusing deck, or an elf deck, or an all-artifacts deck based around &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tempered%20Steel&quot;&gt;Tempered Steel&lt;/a&gt;, you'll likely want to focus on cards from a particular expansion set that focused on those themes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-03-17T06:32:58.507" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T06:32:58.507" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11517" CreationDate="2013-03-17T17:51:05.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only a Test&lt;/strong&gt; has you treat a failure as if you didn't fail. If you were the only failure, and &lt;strong&gt;Only a Test&lt;/strong&gt; was played on your &quot;failure,&quot; everyone would receive an honor bonus (+1 Honor) and you would not receive the additional (-1 honor) penality for being the only &quot;failure.&quot; A moderator on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showpost.php?p=1541639&amp;amp;postcount=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SJG Forum&lt;/a&gt; said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You still fail, the manager just kinda hides the fact. &lt;strong&gt;So, in the context of the game, you did not fail. And yes, it will affect the game that way.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-17T17:51:05.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-18T13:31:18.567" Score="16" ViewCount="6355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bang! gets rave reviews from every source. However I can't see how to play it other than in a very predictable and routine manner.&#xA;It seems like every game generally follows this routine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone waits for the first shot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Outlaw shoots at sheriff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deputies/Renegades shoot anyone who shoots Sheriff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Renegade eventually turns on Sheriff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People say &quot;try to figure out who people are&quot;, but how? There's no information, you just wait until they shoot, and then you know for certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only divergence in the strategies I've found is for the Renegade, pretending to be a deputy at first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure this is a great game, and I want to convince my friends of it, but I just don't know how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5064" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T13:52:13.443" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T22:01:31.890" Title="Why is Bang! so predictable when I play it?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11539" CreationDate="2013-03-18T16:04:24.153" Score="6" ViewCount="2043" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to devise a point-based scoring system for a variant of Mafia/Werewolf. The idea is that there are teams coming in, and so individual players should be able to earn points regardless of role which add to the overall team score. Is there anything like this out there that might help me balance the point values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1951" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T22:16:42.510" Title="Is there a competitive version of werewolf/mafia?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11531" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-18T16:48:13.577" Score="1" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride: Europe, on your turn you can pick up two cards from the face-down deck, two cards except locomotives from the face-up cards or one from each. When I pick up one card from the face-up deck, it gets replaced right away from the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the replacement card is a locomotive card, can I keep it because if I had picked up two from the face-down deck, it would have been mine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5067" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-03-18T17:12:07.780" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T17:12:07.780" Title="Can you pick up a locomotive if it's revealed as a replacement card?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-03-18T17:11:42.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11531" CreationDate="2013-03-18T17:08:54.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, once a card has been revealed as a locomotive, you have to &quot;spend&quot; two draws to pick it up, which means you can't do so since you've already drawn one of your two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; (PDF), emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Locomotive card is one of the five face-up cards, the player who draws it may only draw one card, instead of two. &lt;strong&gt;If, after having drawn one card the replacement card is a locomotive, the player cannot take it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T17:08:54.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11530" CreationDate="2013-03-18T21:02:18.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the first thing that comes to mind is to play multiple games such that each player is on each team a predictable number of times&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for instance, let's say you have 9 villagers(one of which is an informant) and 3 mafia.  you would play the game 12 times, so each player is an informant once, and a mafia 3 times.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably want to have multiple games going on at the same time, and isolated from each-other, and have people constantly switch groups. That way, it would be much much harder for people to guess everyone else's role.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to do it, would be random.  at the beginning of each game, you randomly assign players to a role, and you still play multiple iterations of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way can be a little bit more luck based, but the more you repeat it, the more the actual better players will rise to the top scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also mitigate the luck factor a little bit by balancing the roles such that no role has a benefit over the other.  If mafia tends to win more often, than you can reduce the points that they get when they win.  etc.  you might also assign points based on how they win/how many people are left alive.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T17:43:05.237" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T17:43:05.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11529" CreationDate="2013-03-18T22:09:20.897" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some sense, your question is a bit circular. It's predictable because the games were all played with the same, predictable strategy. While it's definitely bad to start shooting away right at the beginning of the game, you don't have to save everything up for one final shootout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're an outlaw, you don't have to just shoot at the sheriff - killing a deputy or renegade is good too, and you can potentially go for that without demonstrating that you're an outlaw. If you're a deputy or the sheriff, you don't have to wait until you know who your target is - in fact, if you wait until people are shooting at the sheriff, it's probably too late. For the deputy and sheriff, most other players are valid targets, so even if they shoot someone without knowing, more likely than not it's someone they wanted to shoot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For many players, it's advantageous to weaken the players between them and the sheriff. For the outlaws, this is good so that they'll be within range of the sheriff when the time comes, and for the deputy, it's good to have the sheriff on one side and reduce the number of hostile players they're within range of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this brings us to your assertion that there's no information. Once people are taking potshots, there's a little bit of information - everyone's trying to eke out a bit of advantage before the late game without putting all their cards on the table. It's still not the deepest game, but it doesn't have to be as dull as the way you've played it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T22:09:20.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11538" CreationDate="2013-03-18T22:26:24.210" Score="11" ViewCount="6811" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; is great (sort of) for building decks, but I'd like the additional filter of specifying the search specifically to the cards I own.  Is this a feature I'm just not seeing or is there an app of some sort that does this?  I'd also like if it were always as up to date as Gatherer is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T01:31:11.540" LastActivityDate="2020-07-25T22:53:43.660" Title="Is there something like Gatherer but with inventory management?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11535" CreationDate="2013-03-18T22:45:38.483" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To manage my collection, I have used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deckbox.org&quot;&gt;deckbox.org&lt;/a&gt;. Since it uses gatherer as a &quot;database&quot; to know what all the cards are, it stays up to date with the current set. You will have to tell it what cards you do own however, so there is some up front work to tell the collection manager what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com&quot;&gt;magic.tcgplayer.com&lt;/a&gt; to let you know both the individual pricing of your cards and the contents of your entire collection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T22:45:38.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2013-03-18T22:52:20.750" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as a couple of other resources to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn/howToPlay.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;American Contract Bridge League(ACBL)&lt;/a&gt; has a rather simple introduction page with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.tut.fi/~jkorpela/sayc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Standard American Yellow Card(SAYC)&lt;/a&gt; being considered a basic bidding system.  There are more than a few extra bidding systems you could add if you were so inclined but if you havce questions there, please ask them as some of us here may be open to explaining them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3318" LastActivityDate="2013-03-18T22:52:20.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11535" CreationDate="2013-03-19T13:32:53.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an additional resource, if you have an iOS or Android device, there is an app called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deckedbuilder.com/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Decked&lt;/a&gt; that I use for deck building. There are a lot of nice features to this app. Not only does the search criteria make it easy to find cards, it lets you create and manage decks right in the app. There are a lot of other useful features: it also allows you to test decks you've made in the app; you can have it automatically add the appropriate amount of land; you can see prices from multiple sources such as TCGPalyer and CardShark. Decked includes the ability to manage your collection so you can select cards and build decks exclusively using what you already own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside to this is that, while there is a free lite version on iOS, the app does cost money if you want the ability to manage your collection: $3.99 on &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/id397090691&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;iPhone&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.deckedbuilder.deckedbuilder&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Android&lt;/a&gt;, $5.99 on iPad, plus $2.99 for the collection manager (so between $7 and $9 total to get the management feature). But for the small cost, I find the benefits of this app are far beyond what I get with online search engines and collection trackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T13:55:30.997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T13:55:30.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11530" CreationDate="2013-03-19T13:39:42.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to answer this assuming this is a convention, you are GMing the game, and there must be winners written in on a card at the end&#xA;If you are going to play 1 or 2 games you should pick the winners yourself.  &lt;strong&gt;Just decide who did the best job&lt;/strong&gt;.  Did someone manage to lie to the group really well, or did anyone lead the group, get them past the chaos, and lynch for victory?  If you do not feel comfortable picking, &lt;strong&gt;let the players vote&lt;/strong&gt;, but let them only pick from the winning team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to have 5+ games you could consider a point system.  Maybe just giving a point to everyone on the winning team.  Whatever you do, &lt;strong&gt;do not let the players know the scoring&lt;/strong&gt;  If  people know how the game is scored they will game the system.  If this happens it will most likely ruin the game for everyone, (and probably let the wolves cakewalk their way to victory in later games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players will quickly think “he is winning, lets lynch him just in case”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, if there are ties, I recommend just picking winners yourself; let the players vote on who they thought was most helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="260" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T22:01:51.203" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T22:01:51.203" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11133" CreationDate="2013-03-19T13:48:05.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After re-reading the rules we decided that it was best to have each player on a twist phase draw their own card and we'd just recycle them when we ran out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this being, players aren't obligated to show other players their twist phase.  If all players drew the same twist phase then this sort of secretive strategy part of the game would be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also doubled the number of twist cards we have since somebody spilled beer on our first board and we had to get a new one.  The cards weren't ruined though so now we just double them up and have to recycle them less often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T13:48:05.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2013-03-19T17:35:58.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go here for the divider cards for all the sets: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/73412/double-sided-horizontal-dividers-for-dominion-hint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/73412/double-sided-horizontal-dividers-for-dominion-hint&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and for the perfect carrying case that you see in the first links picture: go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciplus.com/p/STOREITALL-BOX_4254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sciplus.com/p/STOREITALL-BOX_4254&lt;/a&gt; - the STORE IT ALL BOX with removable dividers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We currently have the cards to: Dominion, Intruigue, Cornucopia, Seaside, Hinterlands, and Prosperity all in one case, but I think it's going to be too tight to get our Dark Ages set in there.  Will probably buy another case to space things out a bit.  The divider cards are great as they are double sides, so you can arrange your tabs anyway you like.  All the rules are printed on them too for easy reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5069" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-19T19:25:20.967" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T19:25:20.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11525" CreationDate="2013-03-19T21:09:12.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're not intimidated by the &quot;complexity&quot;, than I personally would start with RTR and GTC if you intend to play in standard, because they'll rotate out a year after m13 will&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-03-19T21:09:12.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11556" CreationDate="2013-03-20T13:56:57.947" Score="6" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Canasta this past weekend with some of my relatives. We played with four people, two teams of two. I understand most of the strategy for the game, but freezing the pile generally seems like a terrible idea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed that, in general, the team that froze the pile wasn't the team that ended up picking it up. What it did create was large discard piles, and whoever picked it up got a lot of points that hand, along with the wild card that the other team used to freeze the pile in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, the reason a player froze the pile was to avoid discarding something that the other team had already melded, but it still seems more beneficial to dump a card on a relatively small discard pile that you know will get picked up. Plus you wouldn't be losing a wild card in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also understand that this gives you some leeway in discarding; suddenly you're able to discard cards that have been melded and are on the table since there is a low chance that the opposing team is still holding onto them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like I might be overlooking some other benefits of freezing the discard pile. When is it beneficial to freeze the discard pile? In what circumstances might this be a good play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T14:02:29.997" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T23:41:47.153" Title="When is it beneficial to freeze the discard pile?" Tags="|canasta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11547" CreationDate="2013-03-20T14:29:39.563" Score="2" ViewCount="2319" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the point in Wizard creating &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=289328&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RtR Forests&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=249721&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;M13 Forests&lt;/a&gt;, for example?  It seems like it would be a lot more efficient and cost effective to everyone involved if these basic land types were not specific to a set.  Wizard wouldn't have the cost of manufacturing (as many of) them and we wouldn't need to buy new ones just to stay legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T15:42:47.637" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T20:02:12.690" Title="Are Basic Lands (Mana) Block/Set Agnostic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-03-18T08:01:40.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11546" CreationDate="2013-03-20T14:49:14.343" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to buy new ones just to stay legal.  You can use any card that has been reprinted in a recent set in Standard.  All the basic lands are printed in just about every set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Instance, it's perfectly legal for you to use your Urza's Saga &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt;s or Onslaught &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pacifism&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, some people like collecting different land arts, so they produce lands with new arts every set, and many people try to collect one or more of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T17:28:32.407" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T17:28:32.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11546" CreationDate="2013-03-20T15:28:42.093" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been said in the comments, the point is largely the art; functionally the basic lands are always the same and always legal. Sets are designed with a coherent theme and world in mind, and the lands should fit with that as much as the other cards should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see a fairly convincing demonstration of this in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/956&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;view of lands in Innistrad and Avacyn Restored&lt;/a&gt;. They're all the same locations, but while in Innistrad they were dark, cold, and barren, in Avacyn Restored they're brighter and warmer, often with more life. It's well worth looking at the link for all the full-sized art, but for example, here's one of the mountains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0V5rm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Innistrad Mountain&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nTrJjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Avacyn Restored Mountain&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can just go to Gatherer and click through the various sets to see the huge variety in art! Here they are: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plains&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plains&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T15:35:20.793" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T15:35:20.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11546" CreationDate="2013-03-20T16:42:08.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it has the same English name as a legal card, a white or black border&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; and a normal back (including shape and size)&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;, you can use the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/uh/en/140.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forest from Unhinged&lt;/a&gt; or an &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/lw/jp/286.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Island from a Japanese set of Lorwyn&lt;/a&gt; if you so desired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that a card's characteristics is determined by Gatherer, not by what's printed on the card. If you use a card that has received an errata, Gatherer overrides the characteristics printed on the card. For example, despite the print showing otherwise, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/an/en/91.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountain from Arabian Nights&lt;/a&gt; is a Basic Land &amp;mdash; Mountain with no ability besides the one granted by rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some promotional cards have a Gold border. These aren't legal for play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alpha's rounder corners rule them out, and oversized cards are novelties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T20:03:10.120" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T20:03:10.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11563" CreationDate="2013-03-20T18:05:23.870" Score="158" ViewCount="1459990" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;em&gt;Esper&lt;/em&gt; refers to decks made up of White, Blue and Black cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the names of the other colour combinations? In particular, how do we refer to a Red-White-Black deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T03:25:32.080" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T08:18:04.960" Title="What are the names for Magic's different colour combinations?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11561" CreationDate="2013-03-20T18:08:09.650" Score="9" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're early in a game of Advanced Civilization and I find myself stymied while pondering a trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been offered the most optimal trade possible.  However, as only 2 cards in a trade are guaranteed, I feel I'm almost certain to receive a calamity along with the two cards I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Illyria, receiving Superstition and Slave Revolt would really hamper me right now.  I have only one city on a 2 area, the rest are on 1's.  Having to reduce 3 cities (which is what either works out to) would prevent me from building them back, not to mention not increasing my city count next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I consider when making this decision?  When is the short term gain worth the risk of long term consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current hand is hides/timber/grain, 2xiron, 3xoil.  I'd receive iron/oil/XXX(possible calamity) for my grain/timber/hides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T03:29:04.577" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T11:11:40.497" Title="Avoiding the &quot;wrong&quot; calamity" Tags="|advanced-civilization|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-03-20T18:18:10.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;WUB: Esper&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;UBR: Grixis&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;WUG: Bant&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;GRW: Naya&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;RBG: Jund&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other colour combos (two allied colours, plus their joint enemy) have not yet been &quot;named&quot; by another Shards of Alara-esque block, but I'm sure it will happen one day...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T18:18:10.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-03-20T18:19:01.740" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe there is an answer to black-red-white. Esper refers to one of the Shards of Alara, of which there are five. From a post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-questions/what-exactly-is-bant-and-jund-ive-tried-looking-around-and-still-have-no-idea-what-it-is/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TappedOut&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Shards_of_Alara&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTGSlavation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bant - primary white, secondary blue/green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Esper - primary blue, secondary white/black&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grixis - primary black, secondary blue/red&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jund - primary red, secondary black/green&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naya - primary green, secondary red/white&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T18:19:01.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-03-20T18:56:31.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some people call the other color combos by the names of the elder dragons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance RWB - Oros after the card Oros, The Avenger. Other times I've seen them called based on a national flag that contains their colors. For instance RWU is regularly called American.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the moment there are no &quot;official&quot; names for the wedge colored decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T18:56:31.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-03-20T19:12:01.983" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted by others, the 'aligned' color triplets - that is, those that consist of a color and its two siblings to either side on the usual Black-blUe-White-Green-Red color wheel - have nicknames (but not formal names!) based on their 'shards' in the Shards of Alara block: Esper (Ubw), Bant (Wug), Naya (Gwr), Jund (Rgb), and Grixis (Bru).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the non-aligned color triplets (which of necessity are one color and its two enemies), the 'dragon' scheme that Lee Abraham mentions based on the names of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;subtype=%20%5Bdragon%5D&amp;amp;set=%7C%5B%22Planar%20Chaos%22%5D&quot;&gt;the dragons that were in Planar Chaos&lt;/a&gt; (Intet for Urg, Oros for Wrb, Vorosh for Gub, Numot for Rwu and Teneb for Bgw) is one that I've seen; the other (and slightly more common, at least in the playgroups I play with) is based on the 'shards' that were in Apocalypse, the original 'enemy colors' set - there's a consistent name there that's used on both &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%7C%5B%22Apocalypse%22%5D&amp;amp;name=%20%5Bsanctuary%5D&quot;&gt;enchantments&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%7C%5B%22Apocalypse%22%5D&amp;amp;name=%20%5Bvolver%5D&quot;&gt;creatures&lt;/a&gt; that care about the enemy-color combinations.  That set is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ana for Gub&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ceta for Urg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dega for Wrb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Necra for Bwg&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raka for Ruw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T19:12:01.983" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11545" CreationDate="2013-03-20T19:49:50.597" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your team doesn't have enough points to start, but the other team has started, they will be able to take the pile more often and you don't want to keep cards because they have them open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, freezing the Box costs a wild card, but a lot of time I prefer to lose a wild card instead of giving the box to my opponents over and over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a really good strategy is to freeze the box to let it grow; you keep a trap in your hand to get the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-03-20T23:41:47.153" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T23:41:47.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-03-20T21:56:25.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers have addressed the 3 color combinations (aka Allied colors correspond to the Shards of Alara and Enemy colors are much less clear) but the two color combinations correspond to the guilds of Ravnica:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WU - Azorius&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  WB - Orzhov&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  WR - Boros&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  WG - Selesnya&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  UB - Dimir&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  UR - Izzet&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  UG - Simic&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  BR - Rakdos&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  BG - Golgari&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  RG - Gruul&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastEditorUserId="3156" LastEditDate="2013-03-21T15:23:28.940" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T15:23:28.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11551" CreationDate="2013-03-20T23:36:13.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The requirement is to correctly state the number of cards, and at least two cards by name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best bet is to have the player state the total in the trade quickly; it forces him to think fast. Then compare the value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;28.3 Each trade must involve at least three trade cards on each side. A player with fewer than three trade cards may not trade. When negotiating a trade, each player must honestly inform the other of the number of trade cards he wishes to trade and at least two of the trade cards involved in the trade. This information must be correct - the remaining card or cards need not be specified and may consist of any commodity or tradable calamity card(s), regardless of what was said to the other player. A player may not show his trade cards to another player during negotiations, nor may a player inform other players of the details of a trade after it is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the non-advanced version of trade was actually harder - the requirement for the correct total value and two correct cards made for slipping in the extras harder...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you look for is that he can quickly find the total of the cards, and that it matches, and that he's not handing you more than agreed upon...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-03-20T23:36:13.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11551" CreationDate="2013-03-21T11:11:40.497" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to assume that the third card will be a calamity: the rules are designed to prevent you being certain, but it's always wise to expect the worst, and very likely in your position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to consider &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Which calamity will it be&lt;/em&gt;?  Depending on how many cities your trading partner has, there are several he may have picked up and wish to trade; if you are careful to specify three cards, you won't get more than one, which you may be able to survive.&#xA;And &lt;em&gt;will the situation be any better next turn&lt;/em&gt;? If this is 'the most optimal trade possible', you really have either to accept it or resign yourself to a game without trading, which isn't likely to end well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There may be other reasons to reject this specific trade: card-counting indicates that the two calamities you are worried about definitely came out this turn, or other people have decided not to trade with this person already.  But both are fallible; assuming you can actually use the trade cards for a Civilization card, I would suggest you accept. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T11:11:40.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2013-03-21T14:27:00.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a set of transparent wallet-size photo holders that I bought at the local pharmacy (which is an American notion of a store that sells everything from medications to cigarettes to food to school supplies). Each sleeve has 7 sections, and 10 cards fit almost OK into one section, but it is too tight for the green 12 card decks. I got 7 sleeves for my Basic + Intrigue sets, put the 49 stacks in, and the Gardens have to roam around with just the rubber band around it. The money and VP stacks are also in the rubber band format. That takes about half of the volume of one box. The photo holders are worn out after about 3-4 years of biweekly or so use, I have to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T14:27:00.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-03-21T15:48:07.093" Score="222" Body="&lt;h2&gt;One color&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the most common environments, decks with a single color are not competitive in tournaments (due to the fact you're settling for the top ten cohesive cards in a color instead of two sets of the top five in two colors. The difference in power level between the top 1-5 and the top 6-10 can be massive and game deciding. The other colors also make up for each others weaknesses.) But they do exist, especially in older formats where consistency is required to win in a couple turns and where you have such a large pool of powerful cards to pick from, and are then referred to as &amp;quot;Mono X&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Mono white&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Ardenvale&lt;/strong&gt; (kingdom on Eldraine), &lt;strong&gt;Auriok&lt;/strong&gt; (human tribe on Mirrodin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Mono blue&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Vantress&lt;/strong&gt; (kingdom on Eldraine), &lt;strong&gt;Neurok&lt;/strong&gt; (human tribe on Mirrodin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Mono black&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Locthwain&lt;/strong&gt; (kingdom on Eldraine), &lt;strong&gt;Moriok&lt;/strong&gt; (human tribe on Mirrodin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Mono red&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Embereth&lt;/strong&gt; (kingdom on Eldraine), &lt;strong&gt;Vulshok&lt;/strong&gt; (human tribe on Mirrodin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Mono green&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Garenbrig&lt;/strong&gt; (kingdom on Eldraine), &lt;strong&gt;Sylvok&lt;/strong&gt; (human tribe on Mirrodin)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Two colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are usually referred with the names of the guilds of Ravnica. Since the guilds were released (and especially now that we've returned) the color pairs have become common names for duo-color decks. Both allied and enemy color pairs are common to see, although allied more so (due to higher deck cohesion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Allied colors&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; White + Blue = &lt;strong&gt;Azorius&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Ojutai&lt;/strong&gt; (Dragonlord on Tarkir)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Blue + Black = &lt;strong&gt;Dimir&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Silumgar&lt;/strong&gt; (Dragonlord on Tarkir)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Black + Red = &lt;strong&gt;Rakdos&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Kolaghan&lt;/strong&gt; (Dragonlord on Tarkir)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Red + Green = &lt;strong&gt;Gruul&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Atarka&lt;/strong&gt; (Dragonlord on Tarkir)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Green + White = &lt;strong&gt;Selesnya&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Dromoka&lt;/strong&gt; (Dragonlord on Tarkir)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Enemy colors&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; White + Black = &lt;strong&gt;Orzhov&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Silverquill&lt;/strong&gt; (College on Strixhaven)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Black + Green = &lt;strong&gt;Golgari&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Witherbloom&lt;/strong&gt; (College on Strixhaven)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Green + Blue = &lt;strong&gt;Simic&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Quandrix&lt;/strong&gt; (College on Strixhaven)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Blue + Red = &lt;strong&gt;Izzet&lt;/strong&gt; (Guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Prismari&lt;/strong&gt; (College on Strixhaven)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Red + White = &lt;strong&gt;Boros&lt;/strong&gt; (guild on Ravnica), &lt;strong&gt;Lorehold&lt;/strong&gt; (College on Strixhaven)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Three colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first of these are the shards of Alara. They jive well because they give two sets of allied colors each. The less commonly used are the wedges, which involve two enemy color combinations: they're derived from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?type=%20%5Bdragon%5D%7C%7Csubtype=%20%5Bdragon%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Planar%20Chaos%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the dragons of Planar Chaos&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%20%5Bvolver%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the volver cycle&lt;/a&gt; from Apocalypse, five clans from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Khans_of_Tarkir&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Khans of Tarkir&lt;/a&gt;, or more recently the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/planeswalkers-guide-ikoria-2020-04-02&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the triomes&lt;/a&gt; of Ikoria. Having only one allied color pair (the two enemies of a single color will be allied) limits deck cohesion, making their use infrequent, although this obviously varies as the meta changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if one of the colours is not particularly present in the deck, for example there's only a single card of a given color, you may see a two color name with a third listed as a &amp;quot;splash.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Allied colors&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Green + White + Blue = &lt;strong&gt;Bant&lt;/strong&gt; (shard of Alara), &lt;strong&gt;Brokers&lt;/strong&gt; (New-Capenna's crime family)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; White + Blue + Black = &lt;strong&gt;Esper&lt;/strong&gt; (shard of Alara), &lt;strong&gt;Obscura&lt;/strong&gt; (New-Capenna's crime family)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Blue + Black + Red = &lt;strong&gt;Grixis&lt;/strong&gt; (shard of Alara), &lt;strong&gt;Maestros&lt;/strong&gt; (New-Capenna's crime family)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Red + Green + Black = &lt;strong&gt;Jund&lt;/strong&gt; (shard of Alara), &lt;strong&gt;Riveteers&lt;/strong&gt; (New-Capenna's crime family)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Red + Green + White = &lt;strong&gt;Naya&lt;/strong&gt; (shard of Alara), &lt;strong&gt;Cabaretti&lt;/strong&gt; (New-Capenna's crime family)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h4&gt;Enemy colors&lt;/h4&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Red + white + black = &lt;strong&gt;Mardu&lt;/strong&gt; (clan on Tarkir), &lt;strong&gt;Savai&lt;/strong&gt; (Ikoria triome), &lt;strong&gt;Oros&lt;/strong&gt; (dragon from Planar Chaos) or &lt;strong&gt;Dega&lt;/strong&gt; (from Degavolver)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Green + blue + red = &lt;strong&gt;Temur&lt;/strong&gt; (clan on Tarkir), &lt;strong&gt;Ketria&lt;/strong&gt; (Ikoria triome), &lt;strong&gt;Intet&lt;/strong&gt; (dragon from Planar Chaos) or &lt;strong&gt;Ceta&lt;/strong&gt; (from Cetavolver)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; White + black + green = &lt;strong&gt;Abzan&lt;/strong&gt; (clan on Tarkir), &lt;strong&gt;Indatha&lt;/strong&gt; (Ikoria triome), &lt;strong&gt;Teneb&lt;/strong&gt; (dragon from Planar Chaos) &lt;strong&gt;Necra&lt;/strong&gt; (from Necravolver), &lt;strong&gt;Junk&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/li/246&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;citation&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Doran&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/li/246&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;citation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Blue + Red + White = &lt;strong&gt;Jeskai&lt;/strong&gt; (clan on Tarkir), &lt;strong&gt;Raugrin&lt;/strong&gt; (Ikoria triome), &lt;strong&gt;Numot&lt;/strong&gt; (dragon from Planar Chaos) or &lt;strong&gt;Raka&lt;/strong&gt; (from Rakavolver)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Black + green + blue = &lt;strong&gt;Sultai&lt;/strong&gt; (clan on Tarkir), &lt;strong&gt;Zagoth&lt;/strong&gt; (Ikoria triome), &lt;strong&gt;Vorosh&lt;/strong&gt; (dragon from Planar Chaos) or &lt;strong&gt;Ana&lt;/strong&gt; (from Anavolver)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Informal usages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red + white + black = Borzhov&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red + white + blue = USA/American/Patriot&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(although note that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/659&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Team America&lt;/a&gt; is actually black + blue + green)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red + green + blue = Grizzet&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(although it's usually Simic splashing red)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, it's especially common for red + blue + green and black + blue + green to be called by their abbreviations — &amp;quot;RUG&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;BUG&amp;quot; — because these are names that are easy to remember and pronounce, even though those are not the proper color orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Four colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most decks do not have four full colors. As with three color enemies, if they reach this many colors, it's a shard with a splash of another color. So you're more likely to see something like &amp;quot;American splash black&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;Yore&amp;quot;, and lately simply &amp;quot;four color&amp;quot; is rising in popularity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Names for four-color identities come from one of two sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The names of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%20%5Bnephilim%5D&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Guildpact%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Nephilims from Guildpact&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The names of &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/card-preview/designing-commander-2016-edition-2016-10-24&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the four-colour “guild identities” defined during Commander 2016's design&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reference the one color the four-color combination is missing, thus Non-(color).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The four colour identities' names are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Blue + black + red + green = &lt;strong&gt;Glint-Eye&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Chaos&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Non-white&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Black + red + green + white = &lt;strong&gt;Dune&lt;/strong&gt; (or &lt;strong&gt;Dune-Brood&lt;/strong&gt;), or &lt;strong&gt;Aggression&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Non-blue&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Red + green + white + blue = &lt;strong&gt;Ink-Treader&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Altruism&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Non-black&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Green + white + blue + black = &lt;strong&gt;Witch&lt;/strong&gt; (or &lt;strong&gt;Witch-Maw&lt;/strong&gt;), or &lt;strong&gt;Growth&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Non-red&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; White + blue + black + red = &lt;strong&gt;Yore&lt;/strong&gt; (or &lt;strong&gt;Yore-Tiller&lt;/strong&gt;), or &lt;strong&gt;Artifice&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Non-green&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, some informal usages of four color decks, especially when it involves a typical three color deck with a splash of a fourth, will be to include some kind of pun or other indicator to an established name. For example, taking a Jund (Red, Green, and Black) deck and adding Blue would be more likely to make it something like &amp;quot;Wet Jund&amp;quot; than it would be Glint-Eye or Chaos. Or if only splashing Blue for a single card might make it &amp;quot;Moist Jund&amp;quot;, that is Wet Jund that is slightly less wet than Wet Jund. Similar puns can be made for Dark Jeskai (Blue, Red, and White adding Black) and I could envision something along those lines for a splash like Dim Jeskai (Blue, Red, and White splashing Black) although admittedly I've never seen it in the wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Five colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks with all five colors usually revolve around a single combo that they hope to pull off. It takes a lot of mana fixing and a massive amount of playtesting to get a reliable five color deck. For this reason, you don't often find them in tournaments. You find them often in Commander (giving the player access to every card ever, greatly increasing the power level of the deck) and in skill challenges where a player just tries to come up with a crazy deck idea to see if he can make it work. Obviously there's only one five color deck, it uses all five:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X6h3y.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GCKpg.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tmNHI.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RblrF.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zf0Ef.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Rainbow/Domain/Five-Color/WUBRG&lt;/strong&gt; (pronounced Whoo-Burg)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, four color decks will also be called Rainbow just because they have so many colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;No colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, particularly in formats with a very large card pool, you'll see colorless decks as well. The most common name for these is a reference to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5730&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the old card frame for artifact cards&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Quh6B.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Mono brown&lt;/strong&gt; (not to be confused with BrownTown which is a draft deck leaning heavily on minotaurs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SUIog.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; /&gt; Some newer colorless decks have come to be referred to as &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Diamond&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; decks in reference to the diamond-like new symbol for colorless mana&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="38259" LastEditDate="2022-04-10T08:18:04.960" LastActivityDate="2022-04-10T08:18:04.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6258" CreationDate="2013-03-21T18:45:19.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the two very good situations Dave mentioned to throw the player to your left a bone, there's one more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You've made your Phase, and a target opponent - not the one to your left - has not. If you have laid down your Phase but cannot go out, and the player to your left has laid down their Phase and is looking for that last lucky card to go out, you can throw them a card you'd otherwise use to hit on their Phase (or yours). You take a few points for the cards left in your hand, but stick the other players for big points. Perfectly valid play when you need to gain standing in points or Phases relative to that target player, and don't mind losing a couple points relative to the player on your left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastActivityDate="2013-03-21T18:45:19.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11570" CreationDate="2013-03-22T00:15:50.453" Score="8" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm writing up the manual for a new game, and this one bit is giving me trouble.  Here's what you do in this part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle the cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As long there are enough cards left for each player to take one, each player takes one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once there are fewer cards left than players, the remaining cards get set aside.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a very awkward way to describe this concept, yet it seems like a common concept to me.  Is there a common way of describing this mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T13:38:53.147" Title="Improved wording for dealing out cards" Tags="|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11565" CreationDate="2013-03-22T01:11:50.350" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Replace 2 &amp;amp; 3 with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Deal out the entire deck, giving an equal number of cards to each player and setting aside any remaining cards&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-03-23T13:38:53.147" LastActivityDate="2013-03-23T13:38:53.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11571" CreationDate="2013-03-22T13:01:00.213" Score="12" ViewCount="8170" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this situation come up in a game last night, and we think we stumbled upon the right answer, but we're not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Player A's Commander (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pds/en/24.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt;) was stolen by Player B using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/166.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zealous Conscripts&lt;/a&gt;. Player B also had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/214.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Conjurer's Closest&lt;/a&gt; in play. At the end of the turn Player B decided to use the Conjurer's Closet on the Sliver Overlord, with the idea that after it was 'blinked', it would permanently be under her control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then we remembered that Player A can choose to have their Commander return to the Command Zone when it would be exiled or go to the graveyard, so that trick wouldn't work. (Player B ended up using it anyway, as Player A couldn't recast his general at that point.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did we play this out correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-08T14:43:44.923" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T14:43:44.923" Title="Can Conjurer's Closet be used to keep a stolen Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11568" CreationDate="2013-03-22T13:27:10.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per ire_and_curses suggestion in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1014/should-i-delete-my-own-wrong-answer&quot;&gt;meta&lt;/a&gt;, I've opted to leave this open to show the potential error in reading the rules. Ultimately, the reason the below answer is incorrect is because the Command Zone is also public. As Pablo points out in the accepted answer, the act of moving the Commander to the Command Zone instead of the Exile Zone does not cause Conjurer's Closet to lose track of &quot;the card&quot; because it is still moving to a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you did play this correctly.&lt;/strong&gt; The Magic Comprehensive Rules explain what happens when a Commander is exiled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.12. If a commander would be put into the exile zone from anywhere, its owner may put it into the&#xA;  command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.13. If a card is put into the exile zone face down from anywhere, and a player is allowed to look at&#xA;  that card in exile, the player must immediately do so. If it’s a commander owned by another player,&#xA;  the player that looked at it turns it face up and puts it into the command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Exile Zone is shared by all players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.1. A zone is a place where objects can be during a game. There are normally seven zones: library,&#xA;  hand, battlefield, graveyard, stack, exile, and command. Some older cards also use the ante zone.&#xA;  Each player has his or her own library, hand, and graveyard. &lt;strong&gt;The other zones are shared by all&#xA;  players.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the exile zone is public, the owner of the commander (Player A) can choose to put it into his Command Zone instead of the Exile Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T15:45:47.567" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T12:09:31.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11565" CreationDate="2013-03-22T15:52:22.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel that most board games favour clearer rulebooks over short sentences, so they'll often tell you the number to deal based on the number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prefer a shorter sentence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuffle and deal out all the cards evenly amongst the players. Set aside any leftover cards - all players should have the same amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to go with something like bwarner's suggestion, but the other way around, then you can get a very unambiguous explanation. By removing the extra cards first, you don't have to pay attention while dealing the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good thing about doing it this way, is that even though it takes up a little more space in the rulebook and takes a little more time to read, setting up the game might be slightly quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm not sure if the set aside cards can be used later in the game, so I've given you options in &lt;em&gt;italics&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;code&gt;grey boxes&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Setup&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Shuffle the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Depending on the number of players, draw a number of cards face down and &lt;em&gt;set them aside&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;return them to the box. They will not be used in this game&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The number of cards to remove is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Players | 3 | 4 | 5 |&#xA;# cards | 2 | 0 | 0 |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Deal out all of the remaining cards evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2013-03-22T15:52:22.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11568" CreationDate="2013-03-23T01:55:34.827" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You got it wrong, but this interaction is tricky. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pds/en/24.html&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt; can be put in the command zone, but the ability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/214.html&quot;&gt;Conjurer's Closet&lt;/a&gt; will return it to the battlefield anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We follow the instructions in the triggered ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &quot;exile target creature you control&quot;: instead of putting it in the exile zone, we put it in the command zone. We don't first exile it, then put it in the command zone. The commander is directly put in the command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &quot;return that card to the battlefield under your control&quot;: notice how this doesn't say &quot;the exiled card&quot;. It says &quot;that card&quot;. So we return the card from the command zone to the battlefield under player B control (because &quot;your control&quot; refers to player b, as he is the one who controls the triggered ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule that allows this to happen is the same one that allows to return the card from exile in the first place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7g A resolving spell or activated ability can perform actions on an object that moved from one zone to another while that spell was&#xA;  being cast or that ability was being activated, if that object moved&#xA;  to a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/29794851/Exiling_Commander?pg=1&quot;&gt;Here is a link to a similar ruling in Wizard's forum&lt;/a&gt;, about a commander and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/12.html&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;. Post 12 in that thread is from an official Net Rep, therefore that ruling is official.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T13:13:31.583" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T13:13:31.583" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11573" CreationDate="2013-03-23T18:12:58.580" Score="9" ViewCount="19892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering buying a small table, and I want to be sure it'll support all the games I might want to play on it. Sadly, however, I don't have access to Settlers and all its expansion right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An article about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tinysci.com/2010/07/04/the-settlers-of-catan-something-completely-different/&quot;&gt;making a custom Catan board&lt;/a&gt; suggests that the base game should fit within 18&quot; by 24&quot;, but that doesn't include the sea border or any of the expansions or extensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the physical size of the Settlers of Catan board when set up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...with the 5-6 player extension?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...with the Seafarers expansion?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...and the Seafarers 5-6 player extension?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...with the Cities &amp;amp; Knights expansion?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...and the Cities &amp;amp; Knights 5-6 player extension?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...with the Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians expansion?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...and the Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians 5-6 player extension?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5082" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T06:38:08.603" Title="How big is the Settlers of Catan board?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11572" CreationDate="2013-03-24T06:38:08.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roughly 15x16&quot; for the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;roughly 15x20&quot; for the 5-6p expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About 17x28&quot; for framed base game with C&amp;amp;K, and another 3.125&quot; for 5-6p.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers can be considerably larger... up to 24x36&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've not bothered with Traders and Barbarians, so I cannot speak to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the travel version (which is base game only) fits nicely on an airline tray table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-03-24T06:38:08.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-25T09:35:34.290" Score="3" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ghost Catch (Geistes Blitz original name) the idea is that you grab the correct item before any other player can. Obviously the one player having the correct item in hand wins the round. However incidentally we end up with the situation that 2 players each hold one end of the correct item. Or players grab for the correct item but none of them manages to actually get it and it falls off the table. Or even worse, one player grabs for the wrong item but accidentally tips over the correct item and another player therefore doesn't manage to grab the correct item. We have come up with the house rule that then no one wins the round, the card is being shuffled back into the deck, and so the same round will come up again later in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel this is not always fair, and if this happens near the end of the game and the deck is very small players can predict what the next card might be and gain an unfair advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know whether there is an actual rule or perhaps an errata or a successful (house) rule to solve these kind of situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lSScJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T09:35:34.290" Title="Common rules or house rules to resolve catching dispute" Tags="|ghost-catch|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11575" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-03-25T09:38:45.663" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T09:38:45.663" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T09:38:45.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11576" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-03-25T09:38:45.663" Score="0" Body="Five items are on the table in such position that every player can easily grab them. The top card of the deck is flipped over and according to the items displayed on the card the players have to grab one of the five items. If the correct item is grabbed that player wins the round and takes the card. Players who grab the wrong item lose the round and need to give a card to the winner. The player having the most cards at the end of the game wins." OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="3107" LastEditDate="2013-03-25T11:36:59.677" LastActivityDate="2013-03-25T11:36:59.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-26T01:58:41.390" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started playing Elder Sign, and the wording in the rule book made me think maybe there was some way to keep using the yellow/red die beyond the current turn, if it was unused. Is this the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T01:58:41.390" Title="When does a special (non-green) die leave your die pool?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11577" CreationDate="2013-03-26T01:58:41.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;updated rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unless dice are locked or secured by a spell, the player returns any&#xA;  dice granted by common or unique items to the supply at the end of the&#xA;  Resolution phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T01:58:41.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11581" CreationDate="2013-03-26T02:09:33.663" Score="2" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the player places the card faceup in front of him after rolling dice&#xA;  during his turn. Then he chooses one die from that roll. Without&#xA;  changing its result, he places the die on the Spell card’s securing&#xA;  icon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not say, &quot;and before completing any tasks&quot; or, &quot;and before resolving the Adventure&quot;, so is it possible to secure a die &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; using it to complete a task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T03:13:53.717" Title="May dice used to complete a task be secured?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11579" CreationDate="2013-03-26T02:09:33.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The example in the rulebook on page 13 (&quot;Casting a Securing Spell Example&quot;) shows an investigator secure a die result &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; being used for the task. While this still doesn't explicitly forbid securing a die result used to complete a task, it seems like it should've been explicitly allowed if that is what was intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T02:09:33.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11579" CreationDate="2013-03-26T03:13:53.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The timing for Spells that secure dice has been updated to make it clear that you can choose to use the Spells that allow you to hold dice, &lt;strong&gt;after you roll&lt;/strong&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ agrees&lt;/a&gt; with this as well, but in any case all versions of the rules make it clear that held dice only remain on the spell card until they are used to complete a task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spells that hold dice are cast after a player’s roll, not before. The player looks at the roll, then, if he wishes to save a particular die, casts the spell and places the die on the spell. The ‘held’ die remains on the spell card until used to complete a task or until removed (as described below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;revised rules&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To cast such a spell, the player places the card faceup in front of him &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; rolling dice during his turn. &lt;strong&gt;Then he chooses one die from that roll&lt;/strong&gt;. Without changing its result, he places the die on the Spell card’s securing icon.&#xA;  When a die is secured on a Spell card, it remains there until any player chooses to use it to complete a task, removes it from the spell to roll it (see “Removing Secured Dice” on page 14), or until another effect locks that die (see “Locked Dice” on page 12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For spells that secure multiple dice, the player may remove dice from it one at a time or all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1u9FoFcQBS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original rules&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spell: Most Spells allow a player to place the spell card next to &lt;strong&gt;the play area immediately before any roll of the dice&lt;/strong&gt;. Then, after the player rolls, he chooses one of the dice and, without changing the die’s result, places it on the Spell card on the following icon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a die is on the Spell card, it is not re-rolled when the active player tries to complete a task, but the die’s result may be used to meet a task’s requirement. Only one die may be placed on a Spell card (unless otherwise indicated on the card) and a die on this card remains on it until it is used&#xA;  to complete a task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T03:13:53.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-26T06:04:46.397" Score="8" ViewCount="4311" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend is starting a Necron army, and I was going to start a Space Marine army, but Necrons are really an interesting army to play, while the Space Marines are very generic. Could I build a Necron army and fight his Necron army? Is this against the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5090" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-26T16:13:01.390" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T17:55:28.733" Title="Can one 40k army fight another of the same?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11582" CreationDate="2013-03-26T08:40:17.853" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any army can fight against any other army, even Space Marines of the same chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on how much you care about the story of your battles as to how odd this may feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are just playing games, it won't be an issue. If you want to run a coherent story or campaign then you'll need to justify why the two armies are fighting, and that may be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5018" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T08:40:17.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11582" CreationDate="2013-03-26T14:00:59.407" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the rules to prevent two armies from the same codex from fighting one another.  I would just be sure that you can tell who each model belongs to; this is not too difficult once they are painted, but it could be easy to lose track of who is on which side if there are all just bare plastic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the current fluff, Necrons Overlords have their own Dynasties and it is easy to justify a power struggle between two of them.  Most other codexes can have fluff reasons to fight amongst themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-03-26T14:00:59.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11589" CreationDate="2013-03-26T15:55:19.227" Score="5" ViewCount="1507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Last Night on Earth for the first time and I was playing the zombies.  I pulled the Take Over event card which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Roll a Random Building and place a Taken Over marker on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place a Zombie from the Zombie Pool in each empty space of this&#xA;  building.  No Hero may enter this building or Search here.  If the&#xA;  building has already been Taken Over, Re-roll. Zombies placed here may&#xA;  not move this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the building remain &quot;Taken Over&quot; even if all the zombies leave the building on subsequent moves?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does Zombie Hunger effect the event rule of &quot;Zombies placed here may not move this turn&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T02:42:16.070" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T02:42:16.070" Title="How does the &quot;Taken Over&quot; event card impact buildings and zombie movement?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11529" CreationDate="2013-03-26T23:08:52.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games played according to your routine would be just like chess games where one would move first the leftmost pawn until it gets to the eighth row or is taken, then the next one, and so on, and then the major pieces. You'd be perfectly correct according to the rules, but you'd miss most of the interest. If outlaws immediately shoot the sheriff, they immediately unmask themselves, defeating the purpose of the roles being secret. Everybody should begin shooting other people, avoiding killing someone who might be your ally, but hiding whom you are actually being interested in killing. Only later in the game, when you have understood most of who's who (due to their careless actions or the first deaths), you could concentrate your fire on your actual targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="833" LastEditorUserId="833" LastEditDate="2013-03-27T18:46:45.543" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T18:46:45.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11588" CreationDate="2013-03-26T23:35:04.290" Score="9" ViewCount="1577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played the Yoke minor improvement, and there was some disagreement as to whether it referred to the number of fields currently on the board, the number of times the &quot;Plow 1 Field&quot; action has been taken, or the number of &quot;plow&quot; minor improvements that had been played.  What is actually meant by this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card Text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you play this card, you can immediately plow 1 field for each Plow that &#xA;  has been played (by any player) or Harrow if it has been played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1772" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-27T03:35:57.193" LastActivityDate="2019-08-07T03:56:05.003" Title="What does the Yoke card mean when it says &quot;Plow&quot;?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11587" CreationDate="2013-03-27T00:34:17.660" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Yoke is talking about the other minor improvements with &quot;Plow&quot; in the name: the Swing Plow, Stump-Jump Plow, Riding Plow, etc. So, for each one that's been built (and is still in play) at the time you build the Yoke, you can immediately plow one field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nobody has played any of the Plows/Ploughs/Harrow, then it's not useful. It's cheap to build (as long as you have cattle), but it's also not very powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T00:34:17.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11585" CreationDate="2013-03-27T11:43:58.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The building remains taken over even if it has no zombies in it. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Card%3a%22My_God,_They%27ve_Taken_the...%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Last Night On Earth wiki&lt;/a&gt; covers the similar situation of drawing the &lt;em&gt;My God, They've Taken the...&lt;/em&gt; card when all your zombies are already on the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;with ‘My God, They've Taken the...’ the building is always Taken Over even if no new Zombies are placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the zombies you place stay put for a turn even if there's a hero in an adjacent space, the Zombie Hunger effect doesn't override the no movement rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T11:43:58.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11591" CreationDate="2013-03-27T12:27:08.780" Score="6" ViewCount="5641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw the following question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2754/exchanging-cards-in-pandemic&quot;&gt;exchanging cards in pandemic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now I am wondering if the following (specifically step 3) is a legal move in pandemic?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. Play the dispatcher (can spend actions to move other pawns).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Use a couple of my actions to move other player's pawns into the same city.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. &lt;strong&gt;Spend an action to allow them to exchange cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked question has this excerpt from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Transfer a card from one player to another. Every card transferred&#xA;  costs 1 action. Both your pawn and your fellow player’s pawn must be&#xA;  in the same city, and you may only transfer the card of the city that&#xA;  you are in together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first sentence says that any players can be involved in the transfer, but the second makes it sound like the active player needs to be involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T02:38:15.833" Title="Can the Dispatcher spend actions to allow others to knowledge transfer?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11590" CreationDate="2013-03-27T12:44:36.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. This is not a legal action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dispatcher's two abilities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move your fellow players' pawns on your turn as if they were your own&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move any pawn to another city containing a pawn for 1 action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule book has a very specific wording for each action. The actions Drive (or Ferry), Direct Flight, Charter Flight, and Shuttle Flight all use the word &amp;quot;move&amp;quot; to explain what you do during that action. All of the others, including Share Knowledge, do not. These actions do not deal with moving, which is all the Dispatcher is allowed to do to other pawns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or more simplistically, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/pandemic/Pandemic_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Dispatcher&lt;/strong&gt; may move other player’s pawns on his turn (using any of the available &lt;strong&gt;Basic&lt;/strong&gt; actions) as if they were his own pawn. He may also spend an action to move a pawn to any city that contains another pawn. He may only move other players’ pawns if they permit him to do so. Note: For the &lt;strong&gt;Charter Flight&lt;/strong&gt; action, the Dispatcher must play the card corresponding to the current location of the pawn he wishes to move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Basic actions only include the four I mentioned above, plus Pass. You cannot spend an action to allow other players to trade cards using the Dispatcher; Share Knowledge is a Special action and outside of the Dispatcher's abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T13:10:28.773" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11594" CreationDate="2013-03-27T13:52:37.620" Score="7" ViewCount="1503" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am good player at Connect Four and I want to become better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/od/strategygames/a/How-To-Win-At-Connect-4.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;suggestion&lt;/a&gt; I found is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ideal position is to have two potential connect-fours that need a final checker on two spaces that are on top of each other. This will usually lead to a victory, because you can threaten in the first space. If the opponent fails to block, you win. If the opponent blocks, you play on top to win in the next space. A simple way to set this up is to make a &quot;7&quot; with your checkers, such that finishing the horizontal or diagonal connect-four on the right will be two spaces on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other tips for improving my Connect Four play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5095" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T21:20:54.730" LastActivityDate="2018-12-07T23:44:59.510" Title="How can I become a better Connect Four player?" Tags="|connect-four|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11592" CreationDate="2013-03-27T20:49:59.403" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connect 4 is a solved game.  Memorize the solution, and you should be able to win every single time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go to the following resource&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.connectfour.net/Files/connect4.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.connectfour.net/Files/connect4.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I came to that link from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Connect_Four&quot;&gt;The Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, so in case the link ever breaks, you should be able to find another by searching for the &lt;code&gt;&quot;connect 4 solution&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That article has a lot of strategic analysis about connect 4, and Even if you can't memorize the solved strategy perfectly, you should be able to glean a lot of good strategic practices from section 3 which is titled &lt;code&gt;Some Strategic Rules for Connect-Four&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T20:49:59.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11599" CreationDate="2013-03-27T23:10:35.383" Score="5" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to find the info on the wiki but it is difficult to find stuff there.  When heroes do their &quot;Exchange&quot; phase, does that means they have to trade items?  Or can a hero just give an item to another hero in their space?  Logic would dictate the latter in my opinion, but I don't believe the rules are explicit enough about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T11:30:40.283" Title="When Exchanging Items Does It Have To Be a Trade?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-27T23:18:05.403" Score="19" ViewCount="46121" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have &lt;code&gt;- - - - - o&lt;/code&gt; (a settlement at the end of my road).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now an opponent builds &lt;code&gt;-- x ---o&lt;/code&gt; (a settlement along my road).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I do &lt;code&gt;o - - x - - - - o&lt;/code&gt; (build a second settlement at the other end), or do I lose my road once it is cut off from my original settlement?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5101" LastEditorUserId="1783" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T15:52:15.120" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T02:03:05.713" Title="Can somebody continue a road after it has been cut off/separated from its nearest city?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11596" CreationDate="2013-03-27T23:39:43.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes -- the only requirement to build a settlement or road is that it be connected to an existing single road.  That road doesn't need to be connected to anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T23:39:43.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11596" CreationDate="2013-03-27T23:40:38.180" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;To build a settlement, you just need to obey the relevant rules for building a settlement, which are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may only build a settlement at an intersection if all 3 of the&#xA;  adjacent intersections are vacant (i.e., none are occupied by any&#xA;  settlements or cities—even yours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each of your settlements must connect to at least 1 of your own roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the site you want to build at isn't adjacent to another settlement or city, then all you need to worry about is that you have a connecting road.  And in this instance you do: there's no reason to suppose a road ceases to be yours just because someone has interrupted its length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-03-27T23:40:38.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11595" CreationDate="2013-03-28T11:30:40.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can give an item to another hero in your space without receiving anything in return. This FAQ from the back of the rule book clarifies this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3. - If you have four items including Gasoline or Old Betsy, and you gain a fifth item, can you immediately use the Gasoline or Old Betsy to avoid having to discard an item?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A3. - Yes. You could also immediately hand off an item to any other Hero in your space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T11:30:40.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11601" CreationDate="2013-03-28T12:33:45.713" Score="14" ViewCount="46982" Body="&lt;p&gt;From reading the rules it would appear there are two kinds of damage and then straight &lt;em&gt;loss of life&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.3 If an effect causes a player to gain or lose life, that player's life total is adjusted accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From reading that I would guess that effects like &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt; are not sources of damage. You simply lose the life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;119.2a Damage may be dealt as a result of combat. Each attacking and blocking creature deals combat damage equal to its power during the combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So damage from creatures during combat is combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;119.2b Damage may be dealt as an effect of a spell or ability. The spell or ability will specify which object deals that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that is direct damage from an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the arguments are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does loss of life as outlined by rule 118.3 (at top) count as being dealt damage? Do triggered abilities that redirect or reduce damage effect loss of life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second related question: You put &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130530&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arcane teachings&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blinding Angel&lt;/a&gt; and tap her to deal one damage to your opponent. Am I right in saying that because the damage was direct damage (not dealt during combat) then the triggered ability of preventing the combat phase of the damaged player is not triggered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-30T08:51:05.617" LastActivityDate="2020-06-03T02:46:53.513" Title="What are the differences between combat damage, direct damage, and loss of life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11600" CreationDate="2013-03-28T12:49:10.900" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is cleared up in rule 118.2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt to a player normally causes that player to lose that much life. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you actually have it backwards. &lt;strong&gt;Damage to a player is loss of life&lt;/strong&gt;, not the other way around. When a player is &quot;dealt damage,&quot; they lose that much life. (See below for more on &quot;normally.&quot;) This is emphasized in rule 119.1a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage can't be dealt to an object that's neither a creature nor a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells that specifically say &quot;lose life&quot; cannot be reduced by spells that redirect damage. Damage is caused as &quot;a result of combat&quot; (119.2a) or &quot;as an effect of a spell or ability&quot; (119.2b). Spells that cause loss of life do not cause damage. Instead, they go around damage and just cause the loss of life. There are two ways to cause damage (quoted above as combat damage and damage from spells), and when these objects would inflict damage on a player, that player loses that much life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player takes damage, they lose that much life; if a player loses life, they lose that much life.&lt;/strong&gt; Additionally, if a creature takes damage, it takes that much damage; creatures do not lose life. Think of life as the currency of players, which damage can impact in a negative way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This distinction between damage and loss of life is important. They are intentionally kept separate for cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/106.html&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt;. The designers wouldn't want you to be able to prevent the loss of life caused by his ability by casting a simple damage reduction spell, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=reflect%20damage&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Reflect Damage&lt;/a&gt;, so loss of life is kept as a separate concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a triggered ability says &quot;whenever a player is dealt damage,&quot; it would not trigger when that player is affected by a spell that causes loss of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to the Blinding Angel example, &lt;strong&gt;you are correct.&lt;/strong&gt; Blinding Angel did not deal combat damage so its ability would not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;normally&quot; in rule 118.2 refers to one way in which damage is modified, laid out specifically in 119.3b. This rules lays out an important exception to loss of life:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt to a player by a source with infect causes that player to get that many poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an exception; players lose life when they are dealt damage 99.9% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T13:26:56.763" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T13:26:56.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11603" CreationDate="2013-03-28T18:56:48.063" Score="7" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a card &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Card%3a%E2%80%9CI%E2%80%99ve_Got_to_Get_to_the...%E2%80%9C&quot;&gt;&quot;I've got to get to the...&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, which requires a player get to a building before searching again. There's another card &lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Card%3a%22My_God,_They%27ve_Taken_the...%22&quot;&gt;&quot;My god, they've taken the...&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which takes over a building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a building is taken over, a player can't enter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if a player needs to get to a building, but that building has been taken over? Can the player never search again, or does one of the effects go away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-28T20:00:14.367" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T20:00:14.367" Title="My god, they've taken the ... that I've got to get to!" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11602" CreationDate="2013-03-28T19:56:41.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card text says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play this card at the start of a Zombie Turn on any Hero and roll a&#xA;  Random Building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That Hero may not search. Discard this card when the Hero moves into a&#xA;  space of that building. If the Hero is already in the building or&#xA;  cannot enter it, Re-roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your scenario renders the hero unable to enter the building, so a re-roll is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/1971768&quot;&gt;confirmed on a BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; by an answer from the game designer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the building is made unavailable to the Hero, then you must re-roll to determine a new building for the Hero to get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-03-28T19:56:41.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11605" CreationDate="2013-03-28T21:04:07.643" Score="9" ViewCount="3853" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240013&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt; is used on a creature with undying, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271115&quot;&gt;Butcher Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;, when it doesn't have any counters on it. If Pillar of Flame deals enough damage to kill it, and therefore exile it, will the creature get exiled? Or will it come back with a counter on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been playing it so that it does get exiled and doesn't return with a counter on it. Am I right in doing this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5049" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T02:36:09.463" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T02:36:09.463" Title="Does Pillar of Flame exile creatures with undying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11604" CreationDate="2013-03-28T21:16:08.120" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes. Pillar of Flame stops undying creatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain why, let's take a look at the specific wording of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Undying ability (e.g. on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Butcher%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Butcher Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Undying (&lt;strong&gt;When this creature dies&lt;/strong&gt;, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;. It goes on the stack &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the specified event (in this case, the creature going to the graveyard) occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a creature&lt;/strong&gt; dealt damage this way &lt;strong&gt;would die&lt;/strong&gt; this turn, exile it &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what's called a &lt;em&gt;replacement effect&lt;/em&gt;. A replacement effect happens &lt;em&gt;in place of&lt;/em&gt; some other event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the creature never dies — when a situation would normally cause it to die, you exile it instead. This means &amp;quot;When this creature dies&amp;quot; never triggers at all. (Because of how the Pillar of Flame card is worded, this happens even if it is killed by something else, like combat damage or getting -1/-1 from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20Charm&quot;&gt;Golgari Charm&lt;/a&gt; or whatever.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note, however, that Pillar of Flame doesn't defeat regeneration. The creature never &amp;quot;would die&amp;quot; because regeneration replaces the event that would send it to the graveyard in the first place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pillar of Flame was designed specifically to remove undying creatures in this way, both to balance Constructed games and to evoke the flavor of holy power driving back the darkness in &lt;em&gt;Avacyn Restored&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-03-31T14:56:31.420" LastActivityDate="2013-03-31T14:56:31.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11526" CreationDate="2013-03-29T07:18:28.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point of reducing the number of cards is to keep the players from having too many resources at their disposal. If you have 5 players with 5 cards each, that's 25 cards for the players to work with. If you have 6 players with 4 cards each, that's 24. It's about the same number of resources in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to trade twice is a huge advantage in resource management; I suspect the lower number of cards is actually to counteract the strength of being able to trade two cards instead of one. The extra trading allows the players to more precisely control who has access to which resources at a given time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the players had that amount of control &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the extra 5 cards, the game would be too easy. The game is designed to be a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3337" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T07:18:28.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11596" CreationDate="2013-03-29T15:14:06.070" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The roads remain yours, and you can continue to expand them and settle on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two weird related rules, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An opponent's settlement at the &lt;em&gt;end&lt;/em&gt; of your road prevents you from expanding through that settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;o - - -x [cannot place more roads here]&#xA;&#xA;o - - -x- [can place more roads/settlements here]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4624-roads-may-roads-i-build-go-through-other-players-settlements-and-cities&quot;&gt;illustrated&lt;/a&gt; on the official website.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even though you can keep building, your road is considered to be cut in half for the purposes of Longest Road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Longest Road length = 6&#xA;o - - - - - -&#xA;&#xA;Longest Road length = 4&#xA;o - - - -x- -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T21:16:39.223" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T21:16:39.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1650" CreationDate="2013-03-29T15:46:04.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also own the German version. In this version there is no harbor tiles and the harbors are part of the sea frame pieces (you can't change their location thou).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5107" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T15:46:04.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11611" CreationDate="2013-03-29T19:33:40.290" Score="31" ViewCount="48187" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife has been playing Ticket to Ride on her iPod, and has achieved what seems to me a very impressive score of nearly 250 in the 2-player game.  Naturally, nothing now matters to me except trying to beat her...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even assuming a terrible computer opponent, it seems to me to be quite difficult to get much above 200 points in a normal game.  But I thought if I enlisted the help of the BG:SE brain trust, we might be able to work out the &lt;em&gt;maximum possible score&lt;/em&gt; for the US board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if we can find out or approximate that information, from there I'm guessing it should be easy to work out which routes or combination of routes are the best to aim for for racking up a top score...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-03-29T20:01:13.183" LastActivityDate="2019-03-28T14:17:34.360" Title="What is the maximum score in Ticket to Ride USA, and how to aim towards it?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11633" CreationDate="2013-03-29T19:43:07.827" Score="3" ViewCount="1338" Body="&lt;p&gt;A relative has given us a Hasbro card game called Ratuki - the rules for which can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/bfec240cd56fe1124b04662b03dfea8d/E2BF97EF5056900B10A9D2E13E4D0235.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just can't decide how the RATUKI cards are meant to work though.  In normal play, a stack must be started with a 1 card, and a stack can only be added to with a card one higher or one lower in value than the current top card.  If you play a 5 card to the top of a stack, you shout &quot;RATUKI!&quot; and claim that stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A RATUKI card &quot;counts as any number you like&quot; - so you can start a stack with it, and play it onto any stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, does a RATUKI card once played keep the value it was played &quot;as&quot;?  e.g. if you start a stack with a RATUKI card, is the only valid play on top of that a 2 card?  If a RATUKI is played on top of a 2, do you have to specify whether it is a 1 or a 3 and does that information persist (possibly quite a challenge to enforce, in this fast paced game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is that a RATUKI card can be played as anything and immediately counts as anything.  But if this is so, can you essentially slam a RATUKI onto any stack, immediately shout &quot;RATUKI!&quot; and claim that stack?  If you start a stack with a RATUKI card, can you immediately claim that stack at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any card games with an analogous mechanic that shed any light on how the designers probably intended this game to be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T02:42:25.627" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T02:42:25.627" Title="How does the RATUKI card work?" Tags="|ratuki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2013-03-29T20:28:25.787" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/40819/score-maximization-solution-290&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to get 295 you must get one of the most important cities Miami! You end up sacrificing New Orleans and Sault St. Marie to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Follow the same route from Vancouver to Santa Fe, but then you deviate from there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Santa Fe -&gt; Denver -&gt; Kansas City -&gt; St. Louis (Splitting Point Here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;St. Louis -&gt; Nashville -&gt; Atlanta -&gt; Miami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;St. Louis -&gt; Chicago -&gt; Pittsburg (Splitting Point Here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pittsburg -&gt; Toronto&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pittsburg -&gt; New York -&gt; Boston -&gt; Montreal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This route will give you the same 62 points for train length, but 223 for destination cards resulting in 295!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dropped Destinations: Dallas to NY; NO to Vancouver; NO to Chicago; Sault St. Marie to OKC; Sault St. Marie to Nashville (48 points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Added Destinations: Denver to Pittsburg; Miami -&gt; LA; Miami -&gt; Boston; Miami -&gt; Montreal (51 points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following this as close as possible, you should be able to beat 200, and eventually eclipse your wife's score of 250. It's going to take a little luck, but this seems like the best blueprint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-03-29T20:28:25.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-30T00:35:04.810" Score="4" ViewCount="2174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tunis is the only supply center that Italy is guaranteed to have by the first fall of the game, but are there any playable openings or situations where Italy should delay getting this guaranteed build? If Italy moved their fleet to the Adriatic Sea, it could help attack Trieste or convoy into Albania, and if it moved to the gulf of Lyon it could attack Marseilles or convoy into Spain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like the extra unit outweighs the benefits of an early attack on either Austria-Hungary or France because they could repel the attack or re-take their territory before you build a fourth unit. However, I was curious if anyone preferred an opening that didn't involve ordering a fleet into Tunis in the second round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:12:58.113" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T15:12:58.113" Title="When should Italy NOT take over Tunisia on its second turn in Diplomacy?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11613" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-03-30T01:40:17.463" Score="6" ViewCount="2717" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common way to play 6-player Diplomacy seems to be by having Italy's units hold every round and disband instead of retreating. How will this affect the balance and feel from the 7-player game? Which countries will be most affected? In general, how should each country change its strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T18:35:33.020" Title="How is 6-player Diplomacy (no Italy) different from 7-player?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2013-03-30T04:37:32.593" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well quickly to address the last sentence. It is actually quite common for Italy to take Tunis with an army rather than a fleet. Then with F ION and A TUN, there are options for ION-AEG, ION-EAS and the convoys TUN-ALB, TUN-GRE which aren't possible with a fleet in Tunis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer the question in the title, there are certainly occasions when Italy does not take Tunis on the second turn (and is still playing intelligently), but these are rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally Italy will forgo the Tunis build to try to take Greece. The other case one sees is if Austria has let Italy into Trieste in the spring, Italy is now guaranteed a build and can order ION-AEG instead of going to TUN in order to gain position in an attack (allied with Austria) against Turkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I should emphasise that not taking Tunis is a minority opening, and almost always played with an expectation that Italy will be getting a build elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T04:37:32.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11613" CreationDate="2013-03-30T18:35:33.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest beneficiaries of Italy's absence from the game are its two immediate neighbors, France and Austria Hungary. All other countries lose by comparison, but especially Germany. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a seven player game, I would rank France behind England, Turkey and Russia, because of France's vulnerability. Without the threat (and check) of Italy in the south, France becomes the strongest country. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Austria-Hungary, Germany and Italy are neck-and-neck for the three weakest countries in a seven player game. Without the threat of Italy, Austria-Hungary is now equivalant in power to Turkey, Russia, and an England weakened by the new French power. Meaning that Germany is left alone at the bottom. It is a case of &quot;misery loves company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once played Austria-Hungary in such a game. Did well on the eastern front, balancing Russia and Turkey, but France walked away with things in the west. After the game, &quot;England&quot; (a very gifted first-time player) pointed out that he, Germany and I should have combined against France; and that when my fleet was ejected from Tunis, I should have &quot;retreated&quot; it to North Africa instead of the Ionian sea, to support his entry into the MidAtlantic Ocean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T18:35:33.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2013-03-30T18:42:27.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. A short answer is that Italy doesn't &quot;need&quot; Tunis as a fourth supply center when it ALREADY has a fourth supply center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another answerer pointed out, this may occur when Italy can use the Fleet Ionian to take Greece, (with the help of an ally) or better yet, has Trieste in hand after capturing it the first move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Italy is, in fact, one of the weaker countries in the game. Its main advantage is that it represents &quot;no threat&quot; to the others, but is just strong enough to tilt the balance of power in its favor if it has a fourth supply center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, that fourth supply center is Tunis. But if it is another one, then Italy might be advised to refrain from taking Tunis as a FIFTH supply center in the first year, in order to remain &quot;non threatening.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that Tunis is &quot;only&quot; a supply center that is not strategic. Whereas Trieste and/or Greece are STRATEGIC supply centers. If Italy has one of those, she is already ahead of where she'd be with Tunis, and &quot;nothing&quot; else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-03-30T18:42:27.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11619" CreationDate="2013-03-31T03:27:01.717" Score="13" ViewCount="5042" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/haM0M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aurelia, the Warleader&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAurelia%2c%20the%20Warleader%5d&quot;&gt;Aurelia, the Warleader&lt;/a&gt; attacks for the first time each turn, untap all creatures you control. After this phase, there is an additional combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I attack with Aurelia once, then flicker her (e.g. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAcrobatic%20Maneuver%5d&quot;&gt;Acrobatic Maneuver&lt;/a&gt;), will her second attack also count as &quot;attacks for the first time each turn,&quot; thereby allowing me a third?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T08:15:19.857" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T17:38:20.200" Title="Can I flicker Aurelia to get more than two attack phases?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11618" CreationDate="2013-03-31T04:33:12.290" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two completely separate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAurelia%2c%20the%20Warleader%5d&quot;&gt;Aurelia, the Warleader&lt;/a&gt; in the scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first attacked in the first Combat Phase before being removed from the battlefield using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAcrobatic%20Maneuver%5d&quot;&gt;Acrobatic Maneuver&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second was placed on the battlefield by the blinking ability and went on to attack in the second Combat Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's of no relevance that the same physical card represents both Angels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card refers to itself by name, it means &quot;this object&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the post-blinking Angel first attacks in the second Combat Phase, triggering the creation of a third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T17:38:20.200" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T17:38:20.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-01T00:36:36.993" Score="1" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using side B of Babylon, after acquiring the 2nd Wonder Stage, I am able to purchase the last two cards in my had. Can I then:&#xA;1) Use coins from the sixth card (which I burn) to pay for the seventh card?&#xA;2) Use a resource of the sixth card that I payed for to acquire the seventh card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;John (playing with Babylon on side B, already completed his 2nd Wonder Stage) has three coins left in his sixth turn. He knows that he cannot use any coins his neighbors may give him at the completion of turn number six. He is holding two cards, neither of which he can afford. However, if he trashes the sixth card to gain 3 coins, he can afford to purchase the seventh card using resources from his neighbors. Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5119" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T00:36:36.993" Title="7 Wonders, Babylon Side B: Using Resources and Coins from 2nd Wonder" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-04-01T02:15:33.243" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2013-04-01T02:06:15.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've tried to solve this in the past by advancing the clock by 30 minutes instead of 15, to bring out more Mythos cards and cause more &quot;At Midnight&quot; effects. The only time we lost the game was when using this variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5120" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-01T04:05:11.450" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T04:05:11.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11627" CreationDate="2013-04-01T16:43:16.023" Score="9" ViewCount="1224" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Black Market (promotional) card requires considerable set up time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before the game, make a Black Market deck out of one copy of each&#xA;  Kingdom card not in the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few ways to approach this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Follow directions literally: take 1 of the 10 cards from each Kindom. For those with several expansions, this would involve drawing over 100 cards, and even more time consuming, putting away these cards when the game is over. Depending on the number of expansions, this could add anywhere between 3 and 15 minutes overhead per game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When we first got the card we used it a lot. So to save time, we did not put away the extra card - instead we always kept a single card out for each Kingdom. This saves on put away, but when setting up the game you have to find the 10 cards for the game (whether or not Black Market is used), which adds 3-4 minutes to &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) An idea we'll soon try: Use the randomizer cards for the Black Market deck, removing the 10 cards in play (which is especially easy if you randomized Kingdoms for a given game, as you already have the cards out). Then, each time a Kingdom is purchased from the Black Market, the regular card is pulled and placed into the purchaser's discard pile, while the randomizer card is removed from the play area (The back of Randomizer cards are a darker shade of blue so that's why you don't want them mixed in with the regular cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) is too tedious and we'll never do it. (2) was doable but still a bit of chore. I suspect (3) will be best though we haven't tried it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, perhaps Dominion players have come up with better methods?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this is not an issue with online or other form of electronic play, but I'd like to know about the best way to minimize Black Market set up and clean up time with regular play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-06T01:57:33.693" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T16:44:39.283" Title="How can I minimize Black Market set up and clean up time?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11625" CreationDate="2013-04-01T19:30:41.087" Score="4" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Thebes, you're an archaeologist digging up ancient ruins around the turn of the 20th century. When you show up at a dig site, and dig for some variable amount of time, you expend your excavation permit for that site. There are five sites to dig at, and your excavation permits are restored when you complete a game year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble is that the duration of a turn is variable in Thebes; you spend one week for every space you move, and up to 12 weeks digging. It's quite possible for one of your digs to straddle a year-end: you start before the year ends, and finish sometime in the new year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you dig at a site if you have no permission, using the &quot;refreshed&quot; permit to dig?&lt;/strong&gt; (And thus starting the year with a used permit for that site.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you have a permit before you dig, do you spend it before you dig and then have it again after you're done digging?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, consider this odd case: you're in week 51. You spend three weeks moving to Mesopotamia (arriving in week 2 of the new year), and then start digging as part of the same move. Is this legal if you have no permit? (In theory, it would refresh in week 1, but the game doesn't break down your turn into components; it's &quot;all one move.&quot;) If you had a permit, would you have a permit again once you were done digging?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T00:32:15.093" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T00:32:15.093" Title="How are excavation permits handled if the turn you dig in straddles a year-end?" Tags="|thebes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11622" CreationDate="2013-04-01T19:48:42.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some randomizer apps have an electronic solution for this that works with tabletop play, but most of them have some lag when new expansions come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T19:48:42.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11623" CreationDate="2013-04-01T20:26:16.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the key phrase in the rulebook is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of his turn, the player pays any costs in weeks he has&#xA;  incurred by moving his time marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this token, you wouldn't be able to dig without permission just because, after the weeks taken up by movement, you would be &quot;into next year&quot;.  If you start your turn in one year, then everything counts as taking place in that year; excavation permits can only flip at the &lt;em&gt;end&lt;/em&gt; of a player's turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a permit, you can of course use it at the very end of one year, and then have it flip back up again at the end of the same turn...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T20:26:16.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11622" CreationDate="2013-04-01T20:46:31.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You already kind of mentioned it in your question, but &lt;strong&gt;the randomiser cards are definitely the way to go&lt;/strong&gt;. If you're like me, you store them together as one deck, separate from the cards that make up the kingdom supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend not to use the randomiser cards to generate the supply, but it would be pretty trivial to draw a replacement if you ever draw a card that is already in the supply. Obviously, if you do use them to set up, just don't add them back into the Black Market pile before play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the randomisers also have different backs, it should go without saying that you cannot use the randomiser itself to add to your deck, but you should take a &quot;normal&quot; copy of the card when you decide what to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T20:46:31.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11622" CreationDate="2013-04-01T22:59:19.707" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's an option used by Donald X. Vaccarino. Instead of using the normal randomizer cards, take one card from each kingdom stack and use those for randomizer cards. When you're doing normal randomization, just add the chosen cards to their respective kingdom stacks, and after the game, take one card from each stack to add back to the new randomizers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when you play Black Market games, you will have a ready-made Black Market deck! The 10 cards in the kingdom will already be out of the randomizer deck, and the backs are the normal backs so you don't have to pull cards from the box like you do with your option 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donald X. Vaccarino talks about this method &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=153.0&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5063" LastActivityDate="2013-04-01T22:59:19.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11631" CreationDate="2013-04-02T16:40:58.207" Score="9" ViewCount="2008" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Citadels when you destroy someone's district with the warlord it isn't clear what you do with the card. Does it return to the bottom of the district deck? This is the only other place district cards seem to go, other than player's hands and being in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:28:03.130" Title="What happens to destroyed districts in Citadels?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11630" CreationDate="2013-04-02T17:20:40.360" Score="3" ViewCount="28286" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer game, if I were to give someone a permanent with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15168&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; and they were to die while controlling that permanent, then would I get that permanent back? Or would the permanent get put into a graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am specifically wondering for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=106639&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Celestial Dawn&lt;/a&gt; but I figure it would be the same with any other permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T17:38:23.080" Title="When someone dies who controls a permanent but does not own it, what happens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-04-05T03:08:11.897" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11629" CreationDate="2013-04-02T17:30:28.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get your permanent back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4. Unlike two-player games, multiplayer games can continue after one or more players have left the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4a. When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game, &lt;strong&gt;any effects which give that&#xA;  player control of any objects or players end&lt;/strong&gt;, and all spells and&#xA;  abilities controlled by that player on the stack cease to exist. Then,&#xA;  if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those&#xA;  objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as&#xA;  soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game&#xA;  had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next&#xA;  player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check out this related question for some more info: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5463/in-magic-free-for-all-multiplayer-what-happens-when-someone-dies?rq=1&quot;&gt;In Magic free-for-all multiplayer, what happens when someone dies?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T17:38:23.080" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11628" CreationDate="2013-04-02T17:57:00.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems &lt;strong&gt;Fantasy Flight Games has never officially ruled on this&lt;/strong&gt;, even though the question has been asked multiple times since the release of the game. However, there have been discussions from players about where the district card goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this forum on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/378000/where-do-the-districts-destroyed-by-the-warlord-go&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; most people seem to agree that &quot;Discarded/destroyed cards go to the bottom of the District (draw) deck.&quot; There is one person who says that they play with a discard pile, although a discard pile is never mentioned in the official rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/711845/ive-reworded-all-cards-to-prevent-ambiguity-in-the&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;, a user rewrote the character cards to &quot;prevent ambiguity.&quot; He added this line to the Warlord:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place the destroyed district to the bottom of the District Deck face-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you scroll down through the comments, nobody challenges this even though there is discussion about some of the other reworded character cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third place on BGG where this sentiment can be found is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/162856/discarding-in-citadels&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. About halfway down, user Mark Biggar notes that cards destroyed by the Warlord are &quot;discarded&quot; to the bottom of the District deck. There is no dissension on this thread, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Fantasy Flight Games Forums&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other place I could find any mention of this was on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=51&amp;amp;efcid=1&amp;amp;efidt=207077&quot;&gt;FFG Forums&lt;/a&gt;. This thread is pretty bad. It has this badly worded question (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Warlord destroys one of your districts does it go back into your hand or at &lt;em&gt;the bottom of the discard pile&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is accompanied by a comment that doesn't really address the OP's question. This doesn't seem to really help with deciding where the destroyed district goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consensus from BGG seems to be &lt;strong&gt;districts destroyed by the Warlord go to the bottom of the District deck.&lt;/strong&gt; I'd go with this as the answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-02T18:23:12.357" LastActivityDate="2013-04-02T18:23:12.357" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11310" CreationDate="2013-04-03T17:14:10.390" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found through my plays of Eclipse that there are 4 things you can do to speed up setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Take the bags where you put the ships in for each player. Add 3 colony ships, the storage markers, the starbases, all cubes and disks. You'll have a bag for each player with all the stuff they need to setup their player board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Buy a 'bead storage box'. Craft section of Michaels or Walmart. Put your sorted upgrades in here. Setting up the supply board is as simple as taking the lid off of this box and placing technology tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Buy some Population Trays off the internet. These are specifically for eclipse. You can buy the ones with lids and that will let you store all the cubes for a given player in the tray. Setting up a player board is as simple as opening the lid and dumping the contents of their bag next to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Have all other components pre-sorted and bagged seperately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes &amp;lt; 5 minutes to go from putting the box on the table to making my first action with this setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Population Trays: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beklaser.com/en/6-eclipse&quot;&gt;http://www.beklaser.com/en/6-eclipse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5126" LastEditorUserId="5126" LastEditDate="2013-04-03T17:22:24.923" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T17:22:24.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11610" CreationDate="2013-04-03T18:35:01.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should play the same as a Skip-Bo card in Skip-Bo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just a wild card - and no, it shouldn't &quot;retain&quot; its value in later plays ... how would you remember which Ratuki card had been played with what value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2013-04-03T18:35:01.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11637" CreationDate="2013-04-03T23:35:03.070" Score="3" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hide alone in City of Horror, do items still get shared (to yourself) even though no vote takes place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4911" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T08:42:51.733" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T08:42:51.733" Title="Are items shared when hiding alone?" Tags="|city-of-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11685" CreationDate="2013-04-04T02:55:38.823" Score="8" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the game, &quot;Harry Potter: Rescue at Hogwarts&quot; used, but there are no instructions. I've done a solid Internet search but had no luck. The Mattel site shows the game, but it has no instructions available for download. I don't even necessarily need the actual instructions, I just want to know how to play!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have this one? It's Mattel C5555. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5127" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T08:44:04.217" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T08:44:04.217" Title="What are the rules?" Tags="|harry-potter-rah|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11704" CreationDate="2013-04-04T04:58:26.603" Score="4" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the FAQ, some cards, like Hades (1-046U ハーデス) mention a need to have valid targets when the card is used. This entry also implies that some targets may become invalid before resolution time. This implies that targets are chosen at cast time. However, in the official rules, the only place where choosing a target seems to be mentioned deals with thing happening at resolution time (11.11.4.1.1.). Since there's no special rules mentioning it, this implies that choosing a target is just part of the effect and so is done at resolution time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how to resolve this. When is the choosing of a target supposed to take place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3642" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T21:02:05.603" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T05:23:08.297" Title="When are targets chosen in Final Fantasy TCG?" Tags="|final-fantasy-tcg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11634" CreationDate="2013-04-04T11:28:03.787" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. When hiding, you are not allowed to vote. Since there are no votes, the outcome is considered a tie, and in the case of a tie, no one gets anything. The items remain on the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/CITY_OF_HORROR_FAQ_USA.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can a hidden character (Little Girl or Little Boy’s power, or Hiding action card) take part in sharing anything?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: The character can’t vote, but can receive an item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on page 6 of the Rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/CITY_OF_HORROR_RULES_USA.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Be careful: in case of a tie in the sharing vote, no players get anything. They remain on the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T11:28:03.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11636" CreationDate="2013-04-04T13:46:19.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, my Japanese isn't good enough to make sense of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.square-enix-shop.com/jp/ff-tcg/rules/pdf/fftcg9.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;. Google translate didn't provide a useable alternative. There is also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.square-enix-shop.com/jp/ff-tcg/rules/ruleguide.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules guide&lt;/a&gt; to explain how to play the game that is less technical, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.square-enix-shop.com/jp/ff-tcg/rules/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;individual card FAQs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rough translation Google provided, I gather that FInal Fantasy TCG plays very much like MtG. Spells/Abilities are anounnounced, costs are paid, and then the spell/ability is placed on the stack. Only after both players pass, does the top of the stack resolve. Since both players have the opportunity to react to the top of the stack, it is possible that the original targets may no longer be valid (if they changed zones). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://finalfantasy.wikia.com/wiki/Final_Fantasy_Trading_Card_Game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikia.com&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To play a card or ability, &lt;strong&gt;a player announces the card or ability and any targets it has then pays any costs for it&lt;/strong&gt;. Then, each other player may respond to that card or ability before it has its effect or enters the field, and the first player may respond to any actions the other players take. This is known as &quot;the stack.&quot; Once players pass on playing cards or abilities, the objects on the stack resolve from top to bottom - in other words, first in, last out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T13:46:19.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2598" CreationDate="2013-04-04T20:54:44.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played the 5-6 player version using the extra building phase and using the normal rules. Here is my assessment assuming that you are playing with people that know how to play the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With the Extra Building Phase&#xA;If you play with people that know the game, this actually makes the game go faster. After every turn, someone yells, &quot;Anyone building?!&quot;.  There are still times during the game where there are shortages in resources.  At least 50% of the time, you will get a unanimous &quot;NO!&quot;.  However, for those times that someone wants to build, it helps speed up the game because you are able to get your settlements and cities on the board quicker and ultimately win the game faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Without the Extra Building Phase&#xA;The game is slower due to the &quot;robber effect&quot;.  If you're getting rolls left, right, and centre, you can easily end up with 10-15 cards in your hand by the time your turn comes around...especially later in the game when you've built up some cities.  However, it is more likely that someone in the 5 turns before you will roll a 7 and then &quot;BAM&quot;, your plans of Catan domination go down the drain.  So much for building those 2 cities and collecting that development card on your next turn! That's the potential for 5 victory points in one turn. I've actually seen (on multiple occassion) someone get screwed out of building 3 cities in one turn because they happened to be getting their wheat and ore rolls one right after the other.  Long story short, it can take a lot longer to build what you need to build to get those VP's when you don't allow building between turns with 6 players. With that said, it can be a pretty fun way to play as well if you have the time!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5131" LastActivityDate="2013-04-04T20:54:44.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11641" CreationDate="2013-04-04T21:17:30.837" Score="5" ViewCount="1868" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what point does a creature/artifact/whatever become a legal candidate for being sacrificed to pay an activation cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose I cast an artifact creature spell, and my opponent responds with an instant that would kill it (like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;). I have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Atog&lt;/a&gt; that lets me sacrifice an artifact to give the Atog +2/+2. Can I use the artifact creature, even though the spell that &amp;quot;summoned&amp;quot; it has yet to resolve, to pay the Atog's ability's activation cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5132" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T15:38:55.927" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T17:37:24.877" Title="Can I sacrifice a permanent to pay an ability cost while the permanent's spell is still on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11640" CreationDate="2013-04-04T21:33:55.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A card on the stack is not a permanent, so you may not sacrifice it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card refers to a permanent type, like &amp;quot;artifact&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;creature,&amp;quot; it refers only to &lt;em&gt;permanents&lt;/em&gt; — meaning a card on the battlefield. Note that this includes the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; spell in your question — you can't sacrifice the creature until it is on the battlefield, but your opponent can't Bolt the creature until it is on the battlefield, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards in other zones are referred to as cards — e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unburial%20Rites&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;Return target creature &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt; from your graveyard to the battlefield.&amp;quot; — or spells if they're on the stack — e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;Counter target creature &lt;em&gt;spell&lt;/em&gt;.&amp;quot; (Compare to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder&quot;&gt;Murder&lt;/a&gt;, which affects creatures on the battlefield: &amp;quot;Destroy target creature.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T17:37:24.877" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T17:37:24.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11640" CreationDate="2013-04-05T09:12:22.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, but it's not a valid target for Lightning Bolt either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not a permanent, it's not a valid object for a sacrifice payment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's a spell, it's on the stack, it's a not on the battlefield, and it's not a permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1a A copy of a spell is also a spell [...].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose I cast an artifact creature spell, and my opponent responds with an instant that would kill it (like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He can't do this. It's not a creature until the spell resolves to become a permanent. The same reason preventing you from sacrificing it to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Atog&quot;&gt;Atog&lt;/a&gt; (not a permanent yet) is preventing him from targeting it with Lightning Bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has to wait for your artifact creature to resolve. (In fact, it's presumed he did if he casts Lightning Bolt targeting it.) In response to him casting Lightning Bolt, you may activate your Atog's ability using your new creature as the sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bone%20to%20Ash&quot;&gt;Bone to Ash&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T09:12:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11656" CreationDate="2013-04-05T17:01:44.607" Score="12" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many two-player games a first move advantage can be mitigated by giving the second player the option to trade places if the first move appears desirably strong, which encourages the first player to make a mediocre first move. This is referred to as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pie_rule&quot;&gt;pie rule&lt;/a&gt;, named after a fair way to divide a pie between two people (one person cuts, the other chooses).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be generalized to more than two players in a fair manner? If so, which games would this mechanic work well with? Which is it entirely inappropriate for (such as games with secret information)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastEditorUserId="267" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T21:30:21.610" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T16:32:15.517" Title="Are there multiplayer equivalents to trading places after the first move?" Tags="|house-rules|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11640" CreationDate="2013-04-05T17:01:54.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At what point does a creature/artifact/whatever become a legal candidate for being sacrificed to pay an activation cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it enters the battlefield. This happens when the spell or ability that creates (usually, &quot;summons&quot;) it resolves. (Though note that &quot;summon&quot; is no longer a word with any official meaning in the rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that a creature becomes eligible to be targeted by Lightning Bolt, or anything else that says &quot;target creature,&quot; at the same time it becomes eligible to be sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also at the same time, the object switches from being a &quot;spell&quot; (or &quot;creature spell&quot;/&quot;artifact spell&quot;/etc.) to being a &quot;permanent&quot; (or &quot;creature&quot;/&quot;artifact&quot;/etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T17:01:54.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7843" CreationDate="2013-04-05T18:55:50.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the Colossus is indestructible, as has been stated, if you use Pillar of Flames, it will still take that 2 damage. If you could then somehow get the toughness to 0 or below (a morbid Tragic Slip, for instance), in the same turn, it would indeed be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As has been pointed out, you'd still have to deal with the double replacement effects. As WLPhoenix, the controller would get to decide what happens, and honestly, why would he exile it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5039" LastEditorUserId="5039" LastEditDate="2013-04-05T19:30:30.550" LastActivityDate="2013-04-05T19:30:30.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2013-04-06T09:01:38.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I like to choose randomly to have a different setup each time&lt;/strong&gt;. I agree with other commenters that the base set is easier, so I tend to just choose two of the expansion characters randomly before the game. I then put them in with the base set and remove their equivalents (e.g. if the Witch is randomly chosen, remove the Assassin). Each time I play the setup is a little different so it keeps the game quite interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my play experience, I've found that I'm not a fan of the Witch or the Emperor. The Witch is more powerful than the Assassin, who I think is powerful enough as it is. On the other hand I find the Emperor to be a little weak. The King is a good out if the start player keeps taking Assassin, or Thief if there is no Assassin, but at least then the King puts themselves in the driving seat, whereas the Emperor seems unnecessarily weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T09:01:38.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11648" CreationDate="2013-04-06T15:01:26.960" Score="2" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Game of Thrones The Card Game, some cards say that they can be played as an attachment to the house card instead of being played as a location. What are the advantages to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T15:15:00.493" Title="What advantage do I get from attaching something to my house card?" Tags="|game-of-thrones-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11647" CreationDate="2013-04-06T15:15:00.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way makes it an attachment, the other makes it a location.  Which way you would want to play it depends on what your opponent is likely to be able to do.  If they can discard attachments (such as with the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/GoTCards.html/_/a-tale-of-champions/the-grand-melee/bought-and-paid-for-tgm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bought and Paid For&lt;/a&gt;), you would want to play it as a location.  If they can get rid of locations, play it as an attachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice just makes the card flexible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-04-06T15:15:00.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11651" CreationDate="2013-04-06T21:35:42.877" Score="4" ViewCount="2800" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noise is a Runner whose ability states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you install a &lt;strong&gt;virus&lt;/strong&gt; program, the Corp trashes the top card of R&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the Corp and/or the runner look at that card?  Is the card trashed face up or face down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-07T10:22:52.243" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T10:22:52.243" Title="Can we look at R&amp;D cards that are trashed by virus install?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11649" CreationDate="2013-04-07T00:08:15.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect does not reveal the card to the Runner, so the Runner does not see it. Because the Runner does not see it, it is trashed face-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Corp is always allowed to look at all cards in Archives, whether they are face-up or face-down. Because this includes immediately after the card is trashed, the Corp player may as well look at it as they move it to Archives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T00:08:15.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11649" CreationDate="2013-04-07T00:08:42.093" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start by saying that &lt;em&gt;Fantasy Flight Games has never officially commented on this&lt;/em&gt;, but there are a few threads on both their forums and Board Game Geek that come to the same conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The top card of the R&amp;amp;D gets trashed face down.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/853186/noise-id-ability-trash-face-down&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; on Board Game Geek comes to this conclusion based on a few sections of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Page 6 talks about cards going into the Archives face up or face down. Notice this also addresses whether the Corp can look at face-down cards in their Archives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cards enter Archives faceup, and some cards enter&#xA;  Archives facedown. Facedown cards in Archives should be&#xA;  oriented horizontally so that the Runner can easily see them.&#xA;  Both the Corporation and Runner may look through the&#xA;  faceup cards stored in Archives at any time, and do not need to&#xA;  maintain the order of its cards while doing so. &lt;strong&gt;The Corporation&#xA;  can also look at the facedown cards in Archives at any time; the&#xA;  Runner cannot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On page 13:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When installing a card in a server, the Corporation can first&#xA;  trash any cards already installed in that server. Trashed cards go&#xA;  to Archives faceup if they are rezzed, and facedown if they are&#xA;  unrezzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User Mat Nowak concludes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[A]s you can see from all this, cards trashed by Noise's ability enter the Archives face down in a horizontally oriented pile. (This is because the card in question enters the Archives from an unrezzed state).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other users in that BGG thread tend to agree with him. This is also discussed at the Fantasy Flight Games forum &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_foros_discusion.asp?efid=328&amp;amp;efcid=4&amp;amp;efidt=716029&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and users tend to agree that although there's no actual rule for this, it is the logical way to handle the Noise virus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it looks like it should be handled in all situations based on the page 13 rule: &lt;strong&gt;If the runner knows what the card is when it goes to the Archives, it goes in face up; otherwise it is face down.&lt;/strong&gt; Also remember that cards that are face down in the Archives are turned horizontal so the Runners knows if there are cards they haven't seen in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T00:08:42.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11612" CreationDate="2013-04-07T05:42:02.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a 7 player game many years ago as AH, when Italy decided that taking Trieste in Spring 1901 was a better deal than taking Tunis. Accepting that I could no longer WIN the game, I instead played to ensure that Italy finished 7th. I finished 4th for my worst result of that tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are not truly playing any particular country in a Diplomacy game, you are playing your opponents, and your own strengths and weaknesses. The ability to build trusting and/or respectful relationships with your fellows will have far more influence on your success in the game than any answers to questions such as &quot;When should I take Greece/Trieste instead of Tunis as Italy?&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make your alliances explicitly time-limited; learn what those lengths should be as each co-party to an alliance; and earn a reputation for backstabbing only when provoked, but completey, utterly, and ferociously when that occurs. Earn a reputaion as a player who ensures increased success for your allies, and you will have more allies, on better terms; and more wins overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T05:42:02.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11654" CreationDate="2013-04-07T17:30:50.670" Score="4" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=45165&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kurgadon&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201317&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Didgeridoo&lt;/a&gt;, hacked to say &quot;beast&quot; instead of &quot;minotaur&quot; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39923&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Artificial Evolution&lt;/a&gt;, in play, and I used Didgeridoo to put &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=39924&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Symbiotic Beast&lt;/a&gt; into play, would Kurgadon's ability trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking no, since I am not &lt;strong&gt;casting&lt;/strong&gt; the Symbiotic Beast, just putting it into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T18:05:41.057" Title="If I were to &quot;cheat&quot; a card into play, would Kurgadon activate?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11653" CreationDate="2013-04-07T17:53:07.593" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading the gatherer wording for older cards can make the analysis easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201317&quot;&gt;Didgeridoo&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{3}: You may put a Minotaur permanent card from your hand onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=45165&quot;&gt;Kurgadon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a creature spell with converted mana cost 6 or greater, put three +1/+1 counters on Kurgadon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are correct, clearly the Didgeridoo does not cast a creature spell, so the Kurgadon's ability will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T17:53:07.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11653" CreationDate="2013-04-07T18:05:41.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Casting&lt;/em&gt; refers only to putting spells on the stack, not moving cards from one zone to another by other means.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pays its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you're putting an ability activation on the stack, but the card in question goes directly from your hand to the battlefield, so nothing is cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note also that casting refers to moving the object &lt;em&gt;onto&lt;/em&gt; the stack &amp;mdash; objects created on the stack, like storm copies, also aren't &quot;cast&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-07T18:05:41.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11643" CreationDate="2013-04-08T08:01:56.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mathematically the Pie rule can be generalized. This is actually a well known problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the solutions is to let people take it in turns to add what they want from the common lot to a set of goods until one person calls that he wants that set. For example, in the 40 thieves problem, the goal is to share the bounty in 40 equal sets, which seems difficult, since there are jewels, gold, weapons etc. So the leader prepares a set and each thief adds one thing at a time until one thief claims he wants that set. Then the thief leaves with his share and the problem is reduced to n-1 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never heard of a board game using exactly this principle, however in some board games the players bid point to determine the order of the players for the turn. For example, in the expert-variant of the game Tikal, each turn you draw as many tiles as there are players, and they bid to play first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strict application of the principle to a board game would be to have a first turn where you set up some initial position on the board. And afterwards, the players declare: &quot;I add X money to the white meeple&quot;, &quot;I add X pieces of wood to the white meeple&quot;, &quot;I add X card to the blue meeple&quot;, &quot;OK STOP, I take the blue meeple&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, there are probably some games that use this kind of mechanic, I just don't recall one now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit:] You probably wonder what to do when several players wants to take a share. In that case, you just subtract something until nobody or (only one person) wants it any more, and then you continue adding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5094" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-10-14T16:32:15.517" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T16:32:15.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11658" CreationDate="2013-04-08T15:53:11.920" Score="3" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Experienced rules, it says that a firefighter that is Knocked Down (by fire advancing to their location) is placed on the nearest ambulance parking spot.  It also says that they must &quot;visit the ambulance to recover&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this just adding the &quot;story&quot; behind why they end up in that spot?  Or is it meant to be literal, that they cannot take other actions until they (or someone else) radio the ambulance to that location?  We decided to take it literally, since it seemed to add a bit more &quot;cost&quot; to being knocked down (otherwise it can actually be advantageous at times), but I couldn't find anything concrete one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T16:06:04.853" Title="How does a firefighter &quot;recover&quot; after being knocked down?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11657" CreationDate="2013-04-08T16:06:04.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be pretty explicit in the version of the rules I have, found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=3&amp;amp;ved=0CEQQFjAC&amp;amp;url=http://www.indieboardsandcards.com/fpfrenglishrules.php&amp;amp;ei=guliUdWjH4PnqQGg_oCYDg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNE77GLDCb3GKZPPozo0KQuQ1gERoA&amp;amp;sig2=m1Fu8idbK6d94WvBaZR4Aw&amp;amp;bvm=bv.44770516,d.aWM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Under Knocked Down in the Experienced Rules, it very specifically states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Firefighter is Knocked Down, the Firefighter is placed in one of the two spaces of the Ambulance's current Parking Spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of this is that the Firefighter has to go to where the Ambulance is parked, since the Ambulance can only have one current Parking Spot when a Firefighter is knocked down. So you shouldn't have to get the Ambulance moved to where the Firefighter goes because the Firefighter should already be going right to the Ambulance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-04-08T16:06:04.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11666" CreationDate="2013-04-08T22:18:46.680" Score="5" ViewCount="942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/47055/high-frontier&quot;&gt;High Frontier&lt;/a&gt;, but it takes a long time to get going and can take several hours to play. Does anyone know of any house rules to make the game run faster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-04-09T07:29:15.727" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:50:51.383" Title="How can I speed up a game of High Frontier?" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-09T03:12:48.693" Score="7" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the roll and move mechanic has any real effect on how Talisman, or any similar game, plays out. Would the overall experience be fundamentally changed if, for instance, you could only move one space at a time? I'm just trying to understand how it enhances the game relative to the other mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5146" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T21:27:15.880" Title="How does roll and move affect games like Talisman?" Tags="|game-design|talisman|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11529" CreationDate="2013-04-09T03:21:05.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say the reason that it is so predictable when you play it is that you don't play with a lot of strategy that and you are comparing it to a game where your moves do not out your role so easily. If the Sheriff, Deputies and Renegades wait to make their move until an outlaw shows themselves and the renegade plays law until the end then its no surprise that the game becomes very predictable since there is no strategy involved and you just have the luck of the draw. One thing to remember since you are comparing this game to the resistance is that every move in bang is public while a lot of what you do in the resistance is hidden which allows you to keep your role hidden much longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no reason that the other roles should not act from the very first turn they have and start to work the table. While the sheriff is penalized for killing his deputy there is nothing wrong with hurting him and chances are the person he attacks will be an enemy anyway as the deputies are always outnumbered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a deputy there is no reason not to go after the people who are the biggest threat to the sheriff from the beginning. Target someone who has the best chance to do damage to the sheriff right off the bat even if they just happen to be the sitting to the right or left of the sheriff. In the end their goal is to kill everyone but the sheriff so get started right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The renegade should always be careful with what side they chose as they don't want the law or the outlaws to get to strong and a good idea for them would be to work on everyone while trying to pretend to be friends with everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the outlaws sure their goal is to kill the sheriff but there is nothing saying that they have to target him exclusively. A good outlaw can easily hide while working to destroy the people who are suspected of being a deputy or renegade to allow for a stronger law side when they take on the sheriff.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short just remember that every game is as predictable as you make it and if your going to set it up that each role is going to play the same every time then there is no reason to not expect it to be a very predictable game. Try and find ways to mix up the strategy so that it is not everyone waiting for the outlaws to shoot first followed by the renegades turning on the sheriff and you might find the game to be less predictable  .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T03:21:05.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11663" CreationDate="2013-04-09T09:46:23.180" Score="28" ViewCount="313755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing with my fiancée and some friends, and she's adamant that if you can yell Uno before someone who has just played their second to last card, they are required to pick up the penalty amount of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this kosher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3418" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T20:07:51.043" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T13:45:06.873" Title="How quickly does a player have to say &quot;Uno&quot; to avoid drawing extra cards?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11662" CreationDate="2013-04-09T10:06:32.537" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;She's basically right, but timing matters here. Your correct play is to say &quot;UNO&quot; as you play the card, which can't be interrupted. The player about to go down to one card may not be caught until his second to last card &lt;em&gt;hits the discard pile&lt;/em&gt;. After that though, he's fair game! From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wonkavator.com/uno/unorules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you have one card left, you must yell &quot;UNO&quot; (meaning one).&#xA;  Failure to do this results in you having to pick two cards from the&#xA;  DRAW pile. That is, of course if you get caught by the other players...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who forgets to say UNO before his card touches the discard&#xA;  pile, but &quot;catches&quot; himself before any other player catches him, is&#xA;  safe and is not subject to the penalty. You may not catch a player for&#xA;  failure to say UNO until his second to last card touches the DISCARD&#xA;  pile. Also, you may not catch a player for failure to say UNO after&#xA;  the next player begins his turn. &quot;Beginning a turn is defines as&#xA;  either drawing a card from the DRAW pile or drawing a card from your&#xA;  hand to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/42001pr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Newer rules&lt;/a&gt; on Mattel's web site have a FOUR card penalty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2019-01-05T13:45:06.873" LastActivityDate="2019-01-05T13:45:06.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11660" CreationDate="2013-04-09T14:52:09.713" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roll and move is obviously there to create randomness.  Talisman is all about randomness, you never know where you're going to go or what you're going to draw.  Having more control over that introduces a lot of balance issues, because there are spaces that are not meant to be visited over and over again.  Of course, there are a number of Talisman cards that do give you more control over where you are moving, but they are all &quot;temporary&quot; in the sense that they can be stolen, destroyed, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest issue I would see with one move at a time in Talisman is the impact on PvP.  Some classes are designed for fighting other characters, while others are designed to avoid such fights.  With one move at a time, there would not be a way to escape other characters, so you'd need to introduce other ways for characters to get away from someone else.  Even with that, there would still be the potential to &quot;grief&quot; people by &quot;camping&quot; at a location that you know they need to get to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T14:52:09.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11659" CreationDate="2013-04-09T15:19:52.563" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a few suggestions on how to speed up this game, both from the living rules and from users on Board Game Geek. I've also found a number of people who believe it is impossible to actually speed up a game of High Frontier. I'll explore each option below, ending with reasons that none of the suggestions may work. If you don't want to wade through the reasoning and arguments, skip right to the conclusion. It's what I think the best way to speed up the game might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Straight From the (Living) Rule Book&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the most recent version of the living rules for High Frontier (found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/60792/high-frontier-living-rules-13-feb-2011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), there is a single rule suggestion for shortening games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.3 SET-UP FOR A SHORTER GAME&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For a shorter game, after set-up per 3.1 or 3.2, each player draws one card from each deck at random into his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is meant to speed up the start of the game by allowing players to build rockets earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adding Extra Water to the Beginning of the Game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A user on BGG doesn't like the Living Rules suggestion because it a.) adds an element of luck to the game based on your initial deal and b.) eliminates early auctioning altogether. His alternative is to give all players extra water at the start of the game, discussed &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/787847/sped-up-start-3-cards-or-9-water&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Initially he says 13 total for each player, but after some discussion, settles on 9. This takes out the randomness of dealing cards while leaving the initial auctions intact, but with slightly more resources to bid. This would potentially decrease game time because people wouldn't wait around as long before launching their first rocket. This leads another user in the same thread to think this is a bad option:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think starting with more water is a mistake. It will disturb the [balance] between the strategy of A: &amp;quot;start flying as soon as possible with a tiny rocket&amp;quot; and B: &amp;quot;stay on Earth until you have a monster rocket&amp;quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If everyone starts with 13WT in the beginning, the balance between strategy A and B is disturbed, and it seems to me that pretty much everyone would want to do strategy A (except they would fly a medium rocket). Yes, this would get everyone in space sooner. But, the cost will be fewer paths to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This user is probably correct in noting that this would reduce the number of strategies since everyone would be able to launch bigger rockets earlier, eliminating any attempt to launch a small rocket first to try and outrun the &amp;quot;big rocket&amp;quot; players. So the suggestion of allocating more water at the start is going to be dependent on your group's style. If everyone just wants to make huge rockets, this may be a good option. If there are players that employ a strategy of using smaller rockets, this will significantly impede their ability to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Use a Quick Start&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same thread, one user mentions that they used a &amp;quot;quick start&amp;quot; during a board game convention. They describe it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only tried a &amp;quot;quick&amp;quot; start once, at a convention. We were dealt 6 cards (one of each) for the advanced game, keeping 3 and getting 9 water for the other 3. So we started out with scads of water, and a tech boost. But we did still see one person mounting missions earlier than others, and a fair diversity of destinations. I found it to be a nice way to cut down on the play time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a mix of the above two ideas. Instead of only one card at random from each deck, each player gets two (I'm assuming there was a typo in the original post when they said &amp;quot;6 cards&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;one of each&amp;quot;). Each player can only keep three cards, and must sell the other three for water. This reduces the randomness of getting only three random cards while also increasing the initial starting resources for each player. This technique also falls victim to the critique about adding extra resources, but will give players cards so there isn't a bidding war over valuable ones. Of the suggestions I've seen, this seems like the best way to speed up the game because you get more resources and don't have to use them on bidding for cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Enforce Time Limits&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that same thread, a user suggests two things that enforce limits on the amount of time players take to play since a lot of slowdowns happen because of decision making (discussed in the section on why you can't speed High Frontier up). He suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) impose a time limit on auctions; (c) have everyone prepare what they want to do during their turn while they wait for their turn, so when their turn comes up, they are all ready to go;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of games slow down when people aren't prepared for their next turn or haven't thought about their potential actions ahead of time. One of my all-time greatest pet peeves in Magic: the Gathering is when a player takes an inordinately long amount of time to make a decision, especially when they decide to either take no action or ultimately don't do anything complicated anyway. The player playing mono-red isn't going to deal with the enchantment that's keeping everybody from attacking; stop wasting everybody's time while you pretend you might have an answer. Tangent aside, the inability for people to make decisions in a timely fashion will cause problems, so try to reinforce the idea that people should have some foresight and have a good idea about their next move. There's another question on B&amp;amp;CG that deals specifically with this problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/122/countermeasures-to-analysis-paralysis&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limiting auction times will also help, although probably only marginally. It'd be worth doing if you feel like the auctions in your game go on longer than necessary. I would encourage the use of one or both of these with another option, as they don't guarantee a shorter game but may help a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adding Resources Each Turn&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suggestion on a separate BGG &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/844530/alternate-express-setups&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; is that each player receives water at the beginning of each round:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about this after last session. At the beginning of each round (including the first round), all players receive an amount of water tanks. I am considering to try 2 WT/round -1 for each factory and Space Venture the player possesses (no negative WT as tax, though)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PROS: It doesn't direct a player's strategy like the default express setup and does not turn the initial players' turn into a spending spree. No book keeping needed beyong giving WTs at the beginning of each round (not each player turn). It benefits players who are behind the factory/venture race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CONS: This is the slowest express setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think they lay out the pros and cons nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why It's Possible No Alteration Will Speed Up Your Game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One user argues strongly they don't think a game of High Frontier can be realistically sped up. I've collected some comments below from this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/844530/alternate-express-setups&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; addressing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;James Moore:&lt;/strong&gt; Personally, I don't like any of these variants, and I'm dubious that they really speed up the game in any significant way. The slowdowns we see are when people need to think about what they're doing, and have to take extra time to make a decision. (And don't get me wrong, decisions are what makes a good game - this isn't a criticism.) None of these variants would change that. In fact, I think that having more WT might make the game &lt;em&gt;longer&lt;/em&gt; since it's sometimes harder to optimize when you have more resources.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I think you're mistaking correlation for causation. HF does not have an unreasonably slow game start. HF has a steep learning curve, so it feels like it's got a slow start with inexperienced players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were trying to speed this game up, I'd do the following based on the suggestions I've seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give each player six cards at the beginning (two from each pile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player may only keep three cards, selling the rest to get 9 water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strongly encourage players to be thinking about their next moves so that decision making time is reduced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start imposing auction time limits if it seems that people are taking too long to make decisions during auctions (find a sand-timer that matches the length of time you want to limit this to)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While none of this necessarily guarantees a faster game, it should help trim a lot. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T18:43:14.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-09T22:34:23.587" Score="13" ViewCount="9580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking around on the internet and it seems 'quad fold' is the most common type of board. Is this true? What are the standard dimensions? Is there a comprehensive list of sizes somewhere? Does it depend on which side of the Atlantic I'm on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My board game knowledge is pretty 'bleh', so feel free to go into painful detail about box and board sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5150" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:43:41.967" Title="Are there standard board sizes for the industry?" Tags="|board-size|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2013-04-09T23:36:42.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many books that will answer your question, as well as good websites. However, I wouldn't dive right in to Standard American Yellow Card without finding some lessons or tutorials first. It looks like Toronto has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Toronto+bridge+clubs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quite a few bridge clubs&lt;/a&gt;, and I would contact the managers of those clubs and ask about beginner's lessons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Book-wise, you could do worse than to pick up Audrey Grant's series of books on basic bidding and play. Ms. Grant is a long-time instructor and ACBL legend, and she has written plain-English introductions to Standard American, play technique, and common conventions. From there, I would recommend &lt;strong&gt;Card Play Technique&lt;/strong&gt; by Victor Mollo &amp;amp; Nico Gardener. This is one of the great books on the game, and focuses (as the name implies) on the play of the hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like chess, it is easy to get attracted to &quot;win more with this system&quot;-type books, only these books will be about bidding systems rather than chess openings. Studiously ignore them for the time being. I would recommend getting to the point where you can say (and understand) &quot;I open on 13 points, two bids are weak except two clubs (22+), 1NT=15-17, five-card majors, longest minor, stayman, blackwood.&quot; At that point you can begin to usefully think about the type of bidding system/gadgets you might want to employ. Audrey Grant's books will get you there (and so will a decent beginner's curriculum at a club).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also programs that are designed to help you learn more about the basics. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bridgebase.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BridgeBase Online&lt;/a&gt; (BBO) offers a simple, four-deal introduction game that gives you a complete explanation of what the bids mean. The ACBL also offers two &quot;Learn to Play Bridge&quot; programs that walk you through the basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't have sufficient reputation to link the ACBL programs - from acbl dot org click &quot;Learn to Play&quot; and you'll get there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really, though, I would try to find some beginner lessons at a club. They have the advantage of getting you playing as you begin to learn concepts. You will also probably find a &quot;hints allowed&quot; beginner game that caters to folks who are learning. BBO is a great place to play lots of hands and learn but you will frustrate a lot of people if you are completely new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5151" LastActivityDate="2013-04-09T23:36:42.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11679" CreationDate="2013-04-10T00:31:30.273" Score="4" ViewCount="1608" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you increment your 'Successful run' counters at the moment you successfully went through the ice(s) and are accessing a server or do you increment your counters after a run is completed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: With Medium virus (anarchs), incrementing during the run would affect the number of card you can access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Medium: Whenever you make a successful run on R&amp;amp;D, place 1 virus counter on Medium.&#xA;  Each virus counter after the first on Medium allows you to access 1 additional card from R&amp;amp;D whenever you access cards from R&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T11:08:14.940" Title="When do you increment the 'Successful run' counters?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11672" CreationDate="2013-04-10T00:37:17.103" Score="3" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Datasucker virus (anarchs), are the virus counters permanent or do you have to clear them at the end of the turn?  Even worst, do you have to clear them at the end of a run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Datasucker:&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever you make a successful run on a central server, place 1 virus counter on Datasucker.  Hosted virus counter: Rezzed piece of ice currently being encountered has -1 strength until the end of the encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2547" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T16:40:01.743" Title="Are the virus counters on Datasucker only for the current turn?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11669" CreationDate="2013-04-10T00:47:10.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The run is considered successful BEFORE you access the corporation's cards.  From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Access Phase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt; After the Runner has passed all of the ice protecting the  attacked server, he has one final opportunity to jack out. If he &#xA;  chooses to continue, the Corporation has one final opportunity  to rez&#xA;  cards. After rezzing cards, the run is considered to be  successful&#xA;  and the Runner accesses the Corporation’s cards  by looking at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T00:47:10.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11670" CreationDate="2013-04-10T00:51:51.683" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Hosted virus counter&quot; is the cost of the effect (i.e. all the words that come after the colon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spend a virus counter to reduce ice strength, the counter is obviously gone immediately.  If you choose not to spend a counter, it won't get cleared, either at the end of the run or the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T00:51:51.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11495" CreationDate="2013-04-10T01:20:40.007" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes this works.  Any of the flickering mechanics allow stolen creatures to become your creatures permanently.  Going into the exile will reset the creature that is now yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also works well with cards like Simic Manipulator.  Where you can steal their creatures and get counters to steal more creatures.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5152" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T01:20:40.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11233" CreationDate="2013-04-10T02:00:33.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just remember when anything hits the exile zone that it is a reset of that creature,enchantment,artifact, or land.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a token it dissipates.  If it creature it enters the battlefield for the first time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything stolen, taken, by spells will reset and become your new property.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5152" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T02:00:33.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11678" CreationDate="2013-04-10T02:20:02.827" Score="6" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent pegged for getting to 31 by playing a jack. If I play a jack after that, do I peg for the doubles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5153" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T07:20:06.680" Title="In cribbage, do you get points for doubles after getting to 31?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11676" CreationDate="2013-04-10T07:20:04.833" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No - cards from one round of play cannot be combined with cards from the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/cribbage/85.php?page_id=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/cribbage/85.php?page_id=32&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who called Go leads for the next series of plays, with the&#xA;  count starting at zero. The lead may not be combined with any cards&#xA;  previously played to form a scoring combination; the Go has&#xA;  interrupted the sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T07:20:04.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11676" CreationDate="2013-04-10T07:20:06.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_cribbage&quot;&gt;rules of cribbage&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Card combinations cannot span a reset; once the total reaches 31 (or a Go has been scored) and counting has re-started at zero, cards already played cannot contribute to runs or pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T07:20:06.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11669" CreationDate="2013-04-10T09:35:44.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add tokens, then access.&lt;/strong&gt; There's a timing structure in the FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). The end of the run goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 The Runner APPROACHES the attacked server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.1 [Paid abilities]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.2 The Runner decides whether to continue the run.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        ...Either the Runner JACKS OUT: [end the run unsuccessfully]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        ...Or the Runner continues the run: go to 4.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.3 [Paid abilities and non-ice can be rezzed]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.4 The run is considered to be successful. (‘When successful’ conditionals meet their trigger conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.5 Access cards, then [end the run].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The run is considered successful (and tokens are added to Medium and the like) in 4.4. You access the cards in 4.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question within the question, this also means you'll get extra cards starting from your second Medium run, and not just starting from your third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-10T11:08:14.940" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T11:08:14.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11683" CreationDate="2013-04-10T11:11:11.487" Score="13" ViewCount="3288" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of cards that have the effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target permanent does not untap during next untap step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKashi-Tribe%20Elite%5d&quot;&gt;Kashi-Tribe Elite&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVorinclex%2c%20Voice%20of%20Hunger%5d&quot;&gt;Vorinclex, Voice of Hunger&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a term for this? Because it's kind of a mouthful to say &quot;that permanent is not allowed to untap during the next untap step.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-04-10T10:30:12.623" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T17:36:57.097" Title="Is there a term for: &quot;Doesn't untap during next untap step&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9321" CreationDate="2013-04-10T13:19:48.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the economic part is important but not predominant make 7 Wonder kind a more Social-democratic game than capitalism, since money is not the main objective of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, giving the choice you tend to buy resources from a poorer civilization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another game, which doesn't have economic dynamic at all, but do have a gameplay dynamic involving democratic resolution which tend to lean forward social-democratic behaviour is Mafia, surprising as it is considering the name. At the start of the game, the townpeoples do have their own destiny in hand, it's their choices, base on a ballot, that will eventually dictate the outcome of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4837" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T13:19:48.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11680" CreationDate="2013-04-10T13:22:43.353" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, &quot;no&quot;.&#xA;Long answer, &quot;noooooooooo&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in casual games I [personally] tend to use the term &quot;locked&quot; or &quot;locked down&quot; if something doesn't untap during untap phases at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As SocioMatt suggested in the comments, &quot;exhausted&quot; would be a good turn for a single-hit of this on creatures. For permanents in general, you could say &quot;delayed&quot; - or for flavour representing disruption of a player's magical link to their permanent, something along the lines of &quot;obscured&quot; or &quot;tangled&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T13:22:43.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11680" CreationDate="2013-04-10T16:00:33.857" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no official term for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a term to use casually, then I suggest &lt;strong&gt;Paralyzed&lt;/strong&gt; (a la &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=178109&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paralyzing Grasp&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159267&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paralyze&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like the suggested term &lt;strong&gt;exhausted&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=84065&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exhaustion&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;strong&gt;tangled&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23115&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tangle&lt;/a&gt;) or &lt;strong&gt;sleeping&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sleep&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sleep&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-04-10T08:17:50.153" LastActivityDate="2017-04-10T08:17:50.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11667" CreationDate="2013-04-10T16:46:55.587" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some common sizes and yes, they depend. It's not really about which side of whatever ocean you're from, but rather about what factory you make them in. For example, if you ask a factory that produces a 60x42 cm board (random values, here!), they will have these settings in their printing, cutting and folding machines. They will probably accept if you ask for a 59x43 cm board, but it will cost you more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you intend to make a game of your own and build it with cardboard and duct tape, there is absolutely no standard. I've never heard a player saying &quot;That board could use 1 more centimeter in width&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the box, things get a little bit more tricky. Because boxes are to be aligned in the shelf (at the shop or at home). Having different sizes means playing Tetris to put them all in place. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/634331/board-game-box-size&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;very interesting discussion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; that took place on BoardGameGeek will tell you about the boxes and the standards linked to each manufacturer. Yes, you got it! That depends on the manufacturer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, if you intend to create a new brand and flood the market with tons of your games, you could choose whatever size you like, that will be &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; standard. Just remember what XKCD said about standards…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://xkcd.com/927/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nRHkk.png&quot; alt=&quot;XKCD, about how standards proliferate&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T00:43:41.967" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:43:41.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11635" CreationDate="2013-04-10T17:08:02.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mattel came through by posting the instructions on their web site!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/us/product_detail.asp?SearchString=c5555&amp;amp;displayOption=&amp;amp;brandName=&amp;amp;id=c5555&quot;&gt;http://service.mattel.com/us/product_detail.asp?SearchString=c5555&amp;amp;displayOption=&amp;amp;brandName=&amp;amp;id=c5555&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5127" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T17:08:02.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11690" CreationDate="2013-04-10T18:15:30.810" Score="7" ViewCount="2169" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing through the adventure mode in Goko's online Dominion game, and I've reached the point (in the Intrigue adventure) where the game starts being weighted very heavily against me. For example, my current particular position is Act I, Level 14, and my opponent's starting deck includes 3 silver and 2 duchies replacing some of the standard copper and estates. (Not only that, the 2 duchies are taken from the supply, leaving only 6 at game start - on a board with Duke...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could easily even the odds using the game's &quot;zaps,&quot; but that's not my question. What I want to know is, are Adventure levels &quot;fair&quot; as strategical challenges, with a viable strategy for victory? Or is it just &quot;here's an impossible level, use zaps or die&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3472" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T11:59:07.977" Title="Are weighted games in Goko Dominion adventures winnable by sheer strategy?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11667" CreationDate="2013-04-10T20:30:29.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Publishers and designers who use consistent (if not standard) sized boxes (such as Queen Games, Friedmann Friese, etc) often end up with semi-standard board sizes as a side effect. If the inside of your box is 12x8&quot; then you're going to end up with boards that are a multiple of that size, usually a 2x2 or 2x3 of folds of that size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-04-10T20:30:29.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11689" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-10T21:55:04.223" Score="8" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the haunt scenarios can be exceptionally unbalanced depending on precisely where all the players are standing (particularly the revealer and/or traitor) when the haunt is revealed. When my group was playing this game on a regular basis we simply opted to never play certain haunts (that list has since been lost). Are there any better solutions? Perhaps a large list of errata or special cases that fix some or all of these sorts of problems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T20:21:13.497" Title="What errata or house rules help balance occasionally-broken scenarios?" Tags="|house-rules|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11686" CreationDate="2013-04-10T23:38:50.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been numerous threads discussing this topic on the Dominion Strategy Forum, &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=5167.0&quot;&gt;including this one&lt;/a&gt;. But, to boil it down, it seems like the answer to your question is &quot;no, some levels are essentially unwinnable without using zaps&quot;. I think that all of them are beatable if you just use enough zaps to bring yourself back to even starting decks with your opponent, but many aren't beatable without using zaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One money quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I would not try those levels with no zaps. You get free zaps though, usually five. Just click on cards to zap them. It's a decision as to what to zap - although using three on Provinces is mostly automatic. At first I was upset by it, but I mean, in the end it's a variant and there's nothing especially wrong with it.&#xA;  -- Donald X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there appear to be ongoing efforts to modify/improve the adventure campaigns for better balance, and to create additional adventures. Current status of these efforts may vary. This being said, some reliance on zaps in most adventures is probably going to remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5063" LastEditorUserId="3472" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T11:59:07.977" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T11:59:07.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T01:35:19.210" Score="2" ViewCount="921" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to the way the art for different spaces spills over into other areas of the board, creating a panorama or telling a story with the outer and inner regions of the board. Are there any games with similar presentation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5156" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:32:36.967" Title="Are there games with board presentation similar to Talisman and Relic?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-12-27T04:18:50.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11693" CreationDate="2013-04-11T11:20:04.020" Score="14" ViewCount="23483" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mostly came up last game with a player that had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/wyldside-core&quot;&gt;Wyldside&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When your turn begins, draw 2 cards and lose [Click].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He was using it to good effect up until a few turns in, when he had too many cards and not enough money to do anything with them. The question becomes, &lt;strong&gt;can he voluntarily trash his own installed cards without a prerequisite action?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the Corporation can trash their own installed agendas/assets in servers they control by simply installing something over what they want to trash, and Runners can trash programs by installing a program that would be above their storage limit.  But for Wyldside, there's no way to trash it unless you have Aesop's Pawnshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T12:18:05.910" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T21:05:44.887" Title="Can the Runner/Corporation trash their own installed cards?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11692" CreationDate="2013-04-11T12:16:39.120" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unless a card states otherwise, players may only trash cards in the following circumstances:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) page 13:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When installing a card in a server, the Corporation can first trash any cards already installed in that server. Trashed cards go to Archives faceup if they are rezzed, and facedown if they are unrezzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that under normal circumstances, Corps can trash ICE (rezzed or unrezzed), assets/upgrades (rezzed or unrezzed) or agendas when installing any ICE/asset/agenda/upgrade &lt;em&gt;in that same server&lt;/em&gt;. They might do this to install a valued card in a well-defended server rather than creating a new server, or to reduce the install cost of ICE. They MUST trash assets/agendas in servers that already contain assets/agendas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corps &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; trash ICE/assets/agendas/upgrades at any other time or in a different server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 15:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner can choose to trash any number of his installed programs at the beginning of an install program action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances, Runners can trash programs when installing a program. In fact, they MUST trash programs if their MU limit is exceeded in this instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runners &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; trash hardware/resources (including Wyldside!) or programs at times other than the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But, a card's text can over-rule this&lt;/strong&gt;. For instance, Wyldside cannot be voluntarily trashed of its own accord, but, as you correctly mention, a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/aesops-pawnshop-core&quot;&gt;Aesop's Pawnshop&lt;/a&gt; can trash it (and for a benefit) because the card explicitly tells you to trash something:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When your turn begins, you may trash another of your installed cards to gain 3 [Credits].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-11T12:32:40.133" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T12:32:40.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T19:18:40.590" Score="10" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4icXD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a Hive layout photo&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here. Is it possible to move this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figure that neither the rule of hive continuity nor tile sliding rule are  violated here. The rules also don't mention any direct contact requirements like with the Spider. So... is the move valid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5129" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T13:17:53.323" Title="In Hive, can Beetle hop over to another lane?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11695" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-11T19:19:59.470" Score="2" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for games with pieces on a board that move and interact according to actions taken previously in the game. In Robo Rally you give your piece instructions in advance. I recall a similar game where you alter parts of the board before your piece reaches them. Any other games with similar mechanics to these would be welcome answers here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T08:55:57.827" Title="What games have plan-moves-in-advance mechanics like Robo Rally?" Tags="|recommendations|mechanics|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-04-12T18:53:28.220" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11695" CreationDate="2013-04-11T20:13:34.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38453/space-alert&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Alert&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative game in which you plan out your entire sequence of moves while trying to communicate with other players about the moves that you are making and the moves that they should make.  It uses very similar parts of your brain as RoboRally, with the exception that you're communicating about what each other are doing rather than trying to guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T20:13:34.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11694" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:15:06.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am pretty sure that all piece movements are considered to be of a sliding nature around the outside of the hive as the baseline movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clarification on Spider isn't specific to Spider, that is just where they mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A basic move (as the Bee or Beetle not going up or down does) is defined as moving around the outside of the hive, making that move illegal. Put another way, each move you make like this involves still touching at least one similar piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Spider and Ant both make compound moves by having repeated normal moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-04-11T21:15:06.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11699" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:40:10.730" Score="5" ViewCount="2582" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play a kicked &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quag%20Vampires&quot;&gt;Quag Vampires&lt;/a&gt;, and my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humility&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, will the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quag%20Vampires&quot;&gt;Quag Vampires&lt;/a&gt; still get his counters and be larger than a 1/1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T14:38:24.080" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:38:24.080" Title="Humility and +1/+1 counters" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11698" CreationDate="2013-04-11T21:48:27.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your vampire will be larger than 1/1.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules reference is the power/toughness layer when handling continuous effects. Note that because of this layering rule, it doesn't matter whether the creature entered the battlefield first, or the Humility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3. Within layer 7, apply effects in a series of sublayers in the order described below. Within each sublayer, apply effects in timestamp order. (See rule 613.6.) Note that dependency may alter the order in which effects are applied within a sublayer. (See rule 613.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3a Layer 7a: Effects from characteristic-defining abilities that define power and/or toughness are applied. See rule 604.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(That is the Humility)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3c Layer 7c: Effects that modify power and/or toughness (but don’t set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value) are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.3d Layer 7d: Power and/or toughness changes from counters are applied. See rule 121, “Counters.”&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(the +1/+1 counters)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3e Layer 7e: Effects that switch a creature’s power and toughness are applied. Such effects take the value of power and apply it to the creature’s toughness, and take the value of toughness and apply it to the creature’s power.&#xA;Example: A 1/3 creature is given +0/+1 by an effect. Then another effect switches the creature’s power and toughness. Its new power and toughness is 4/1. A new effect gives the creature +5/+0. Its “unswitched” power and toughness would be 6/4, so its actual power and toughness is 4/6.&#xA;Example: A 1/3 creature is given +0/+1 by an effect. Then another effect switches the creature’s power and toughness. Its new power and toughness is 4/1. If the +0/+1 effect ends before the switch effect ends, the creature becomes 3/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T07:15:56.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-12T02:47:42.637" Score="2" ViewCount="1908" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend plays a stupid amount of prevent all damage instants. If I attack, and use something with &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1102/~/magic%3a-the-gathering%3a-split-second&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;split second&lt;/a&gt;, can he still use his prevent all damage? Or with split second ending the stack, is he unable to do anything except block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5159" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-04-13T18:26:04.730" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T18:26:04.730" Title="Can split second be used to block damage prevention effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11700" CreationDate="2013-04-12T03:24:53.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the text of split second:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split second &lt;em&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;As long as this spell is on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;, players can't cast spells or activate abilities that aren't mana abilities.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split second only prevents casting spells and activating abilities while the split-second spell itself is on the stack. This means no player may take an action in between casting the spells and resolution. After that spell resolves, however, you'll still pass priority around normally (meaning your friend now gets to play other spells or abilities) before going on to the next part of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to prevent your opponent from casting spells, you'll need countermagic or a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Silence&quot;&gt;Silence&lt;/a&gt; effect. Try &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grand%20Abolisher&quot;&gt;Grand Abolisher&lt;/a&gt; if you want to keep your opponent from messing with your attack phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can play cards that cancel out the effects of his spells — e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skull%20Crack&quot;&gt;Skull Crack&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Punishment&quot;&gt;Leyline of Punishment&lt;/a&gt; against damage-prevention effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T03:24:53.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11700" CreationDate="2013-04-12T04:13:40.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Split second only prevents casting spells and activating abilities while the split-second spell itself is on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to cast a split-second spell after blockers are declared, he wouldn't be able to respond to it with his instant. But as soon as your split-second spell resolves, both players are again given the chance to cast a spell. He could cast his then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T04:13:40.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11695" CreationDate="2013-04-12T08:55:57.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boardgamegeek has got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/68015/games-with-a-programming-mechanism/page/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt; on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do however not know which game you are referring to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T08:55:57.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11636" CreationDate="2013-04-12T11:48:04.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was explained in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/113qdgS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a tweet from the developer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;「選ぶ」ある召喚獣やアビリティがあります。使う時に選ぶと思うが11.11.4.1.1.以外「選ぶ」を特別扱うルールは見つけることができないので結果の一部として解決時に選ぶべきも思われます。どっちが正しいですか。ルールにその答えがいたならその番号も教えてください。&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a summon and abilities that &amp;quot;choose&amp;quot;. Although 11.11.4.1.1. Other than &amp;quot;choose&amp;quot; a special treat rules also seems to choose at the time of resolution as part of the result because it can not find think that choosing when to use. Which is correct? Please also tell me the number if the answer was in the rules. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://translate.google.com/#auto/en/%E3%80%8C%E9%81%B8%E3%81%B6%E3%80%8D%E3%81%82%E3%82%8B%E5%8F%AC%E5%96%9A%E7%8D%A3%E3%82%84%E3%82%A2%E3%83%93%E3%83%AA%E3%83%86%E3%82%A3%E3%81%8C%E3%81%82%E3%82%8A%E3%81%BE%E3%81%99%E3%80%82%E4%BD%BF%E3%81%86%E6%99%82%E3%81%AB%E9%81%B8%E3%81%B6%E3%81%A8%E6%80%9D%E3%81%86%E3%81%8C11.11.4.1.1.%E4%BB%A5%E5%A4%96%E3%80%8C%E9%81%B8%E3%81%B6%E3%80%8D%E3%82%92%E7%89%B9%E5%88%A5%E6%89%B1%E3%81%86%E3%83%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%AF%E8%A6%8B%E3%81%A4%E3%81%91%E3%82%8B%E3%81%93%E3%81%A8%E3%81%8C%E3%81%A7%E3%81%8D%E3%81%AA%E3%81%84%E3%81%AE%E3%81%A7%E7%B5%90%E6%9E%9C%E3%81%AE%E4%B8%80%E9%83%A8%E3%81%A8%E3%81%97%E3%81%A6%E8%A7%A3%E6%B1%BA%E6%99%82%E3%81%AB%E9%81%B8%E3%81%B6%E3%81%B9%E3%81%8D%E3%82%82%E6%80%9D%E3%82%8F%E3%82%8C%E3%81%BE%E3%81%99%E3%80%82%E3%81%A9%E3%81%A3%E3%81%A1%E3%81%8C%E6%AD%A3%E3%81%97%E3%81%84%E3%81%A7%E3%81%99%E3%81%8B%E3%80%82%E3%83%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%AB%E3%81%9D%E3%81%AE%E7%AD%94%E3%81%88%E3%81%8C%E3%81%84%E3%81%9F%E3%81%AA%E3%82%89%E3%81%9D%E3%81%AE%E7%95%AA%E5%8F%B7%E3%82%82%E6%95%99%E3%81%88%E3%81%A6%E3%81%8F%E3%81%A0%E3%81%95%E3%81%84%E3%80%82&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auto-translated through Google Translate&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Answer&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;選ぶのはアビリティを使用する際になります。総合ルールに明記されていませんので、次の更新の際に追記いたします。ご指摘ありがとうございます。&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will be when you use the ability to choose. Because not explicitly stated in the Comprehensive Rules, it will be appended to the time of the next update. Thank you for your advice. &lt;sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://translate.google.com/#auto/en/%E9%81%B8%E3%81%B6%E3%81%AE%E3%81%AF%E3%82%A2%E3%83%93%E3%83%AA%E3%83%86%E3%82%A3%E3%82%92%E4%BD%BF%E7%94%A8%E3%81%99%E3%82%8B%E9%9A%9B%E3%81%AB%E3%81%AA%E3%82%8A%E3%81%BE%E3%81%99%E3%80%82%E7%B7%8F%E5%90%88%E3%83%AB%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%AB%E6%98%8E%E8%A8%98%E3%81%95%E3%82%8C%E3%81%A6%E3%81%84%E3%81%BE%E3%81%9B%E3%82%93%E3%81%AE%E3%81%A7%E3%80%81%E6%AC%A1%E3%81%AE%E6%9B%B4%E6%96%B0%E3%81%AE%E9%9A%9B%E3%81%AB%E8%BF%BD%E8%A8%98%E3%81%84%E3%81%9F%E3%81%97%E3%81%BE%E3%81%99%E3%80%82%E3%81%94%E6%8C%87%E6%91%98%E3%81%82%E3%82%8A%E3%81%8C%E3%81%A8%E3%81%86%E3%81%94%E3%81%96%E3%81%84%E3%81%BE%E3%81%99%E3%80%82&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auto-translated through Google Translate&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, targets are chosen when the card is used. It has not been added to the comprehensive rules by mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3642" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T05:23:08.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11706" CreationDate="2013-04-12T12:57:17.750" Score="12" ViewCount="10987" Body="&lt;p&gt;The split cards in the expansion set &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicspoiler.com/dragons-maze/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragon's Maze&lt;/a&gt; contain a new mechanic &amp;quot;Fuse&amp;quot;. This mechanic allows you to cast both sides of the spell, a new option for cards of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Isochron%20Scepter&quot;&gt;Isochron Scepter&lt;/a&gt; allows you to imprint any instant card with casting cost 2 or less, and then produce copies of that card once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interaction of Isochron Scepter and instant split cards is a highly useful one, in that you can imprint a split card providing one side meets the requirements of Isochron Scepter, and then cast either side of the card using Isochron Scepter's linked ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fuse mechanic allows you to cast both sides of the card. How does this mechanic interact with Isochron Scepter?&lt;/strong&gt; This is relevant so far to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Turn // Burn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369042&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Far // Away&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:23:55.010" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T04:31:28.277" Title="How do Isochron Scepter and the Fuse mechanic interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11705" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:10:45.540" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot use Fuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reminder text reads &quot;You may cast one or both halves of this card from your &lt;strong&gt;hand&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot; The scepter allows you to cast a copy of the card from Exile. That it's not a card may or may not be relevant, but the addition of &quot;from your hand&quot; will surely be present in the rules, so it's pretty clear that Fuse cannot be used here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, it's as if you were casting a regular split card. You can cast either side (even if the mana cost of that side is more than two), but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;: The rules have been released, and the &quot;from your hand&quot; is indeed present in them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101a Fuse is a static ability found on some split cards (see rule 708, &quot;Split Cards&quot;) that applies while the card with fuse is in a player’s hand. If a player casts a split card with fuse from his or her hand, the player may choose to cast both halves of that split card. This choice is made before putting the split card with fuse onto the stack. The resulting spell is a fused split spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101b A fused split spell has two sets of characteristics and one converted mana cost. The converted mana cost of the spell is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its two mana costs, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101c The total cost of a fused split spell includes the mana cost of each half. (See rule 601.2e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101d As a fused split spell resolves, the controller of the spell follows instructions of the left half and then follows the instructions of the right half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T19:08:49.000" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T19:08:49.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11694" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:17:53.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the one hive rule is continuous, even during a move.  At least in the version of the rules that I have, the second example under the One Hive rule states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Moving the black Queen Bee to a position where it re-links the Hive is&#xA;  also an illegal move as the Hive is left unlinked while the piece is&#xA;  in transit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would apply to your beetle move as well, since while it was in transit, it would not be connected to the hive at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T13:17:53.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11720" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:18:19.670" Score="2" ViewCount="1527" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a Competitive REL tournament with an opponent, a player casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLion%27s%5d%2b%5bEye%5d%2b%5bDiamond%5d&quot;&gt;Lion&amp;#39;s Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt;, Lion's Eye Diamond, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInfernal%20Tutor%5d&quot;&gt;Infernal Tutor&lt;/a&gt;, making a note of storm count after each spell is cast. If the active player has not declared immediately after casting Infernal Tutor that they are intending to respond to it, are they able to activate their Lion's Eye Diamonds in the following situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a)&lt;/strong&gt; The opponent does nothing, and the active player goes to activate the Lion's Eye Diamonds after finishing writing down the storm count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;b)&lt;/strong&gt; The opponent says, &quot;In response,&quot; and the active player says, &quot;Before you respond I need to activate my Lion's Eye Diamonds&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;c)&lt;/strong&gt; The opponent says, &quot;That resolves,&quot; before the active player has finished updating the storm count (this may be a duplicate of a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any differences in rulings in these situations? Or is it a case of &quot;Declare the maintaining of priority immediately, or the opponent can force you to lose it&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:32:21.257" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:32:21.257" Title="Infractions/Player Communication - Infernal Tutor and Lion's Eye Diamond" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11705" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:42:38.937" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/47496931426/if-you-copy-a-split-card-with-isochron-scepter-would&quot;&gt;This post&lt;/a&gt; on Tumblr from a judge makes this pretty clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;YOU CAN ONLY CAST BOTH HALVES OF A SPELL WITH FUSE WHEN YOU CAST IT FROM YOUR HAND.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;br&gt;Sorry for having to yell there, but people don’t seem to be getting that point, so I have to keep reinforcing it.&lt;br&gt; Also, you can cast either half of a split card that’s imprinted on Isochron Scepter. Just not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As ikegami said, this is because of the clause in the Fuse reminder text that says &quot;from your hand.&quot; So after you imprint it, you can use either side like with other split cards, but not both at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T13:42:38.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11708" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:50:11.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want to activate LED before Infernal Tutor resolves, you have to do it in response to casting Infernal Tutor, or you have to hope that your opponent casts a spell or ability of his own, passing priority back to you.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If the active player has not declared immediately after casting infernal tutor that They are intending to respond to it, are they able to activate their Lion's Eye Diamonds in the following situations?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that means the following course of actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play an LED, you both pass, LED resolves, both pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play an LED, you both pass, LED resolves, both pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play Infernal Tutor, you pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means the opponent has priority now, and the stack consists of Infernal Tutor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; The opponent passes priority, and since all players have passed in succession, the stack starts resolving. Since Infernal Tutor is top of the stack in this scenario, you will not get a chance to activate a Lion's Eye Diamond, because you can only activate it when you have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;405.5. When all players pass in succession, the top (last-added) spell or ability on the stack resolves. If the stack is empty when all players pass, the current step or phase ends and the next begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; You cannot respond to a response that way - as long as the opponent has priority, he will get to play his spells and abilities (see 116.3c). You can only activate mana abilities during that time. Lion's Eye Diamond is a mana ability, but it has the additional timing restriction that it can only be activated as an instant, so unlike e.g. a land you may NOT activate LED if you don't have priority. Of course, if the opponent has played at least one spell or ability, then you will get back priority at least once, and you can activate one or both LEDs. But the opponent can play as much stuff as he likes before that, potentially adding to the Storm count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; It is indeed the same as a). Also I'm not sure why you found it important to mention that, but players don't have to update the Storm count. It is not  an action formally recognized by the game rules - &amp;quot;the game&amp;quot; (which means the players in the end, of course) tracks that for them. The only time when Storm count matters is during the resolution of a spell/ability with the Storm ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:02:19.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11716" CreationDate="2013-04-12T13:55:23.763" Score="3" ViewCount="1395" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent casts (or cascades into) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypergenesis&quot;&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/a&gt;, starting with the caster each player takes it in turns to put a Creature, Artifact, Land or Enchantment onto the Battlefield. This can be repeated any number of times, and as a result potentially lead to some confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)&lt;/strong&gt; I put an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield, my opponent puts an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield. Next, I put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Griselbrand&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt; onto the Battlefield, my opponent puts a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Detention%20Sphere&quot;&gt;Detention Sphere&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield. Finally, I put an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iona%2C%20Shield%20of%20Emeria&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield, My opponent puts an Island onto the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;Can my opponent exile my Iona?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)&lt;/strong&gt; I put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Matron&quot;&gt;Goblin Matron&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;can I fetch a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Ringleader&quot;&gt;Goblin Ringleader&lt;/a&gt; and put that onto the battlefield in the next round of Hypergenesis?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T14:33:05.737" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T19:59:35.660" Title="Hypergenesis and Triggered abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2013-04-12T14:11:47.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yes. &lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Rulings sections on gatherer:&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=113533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anything that triggers during the resolution of this will wait to be&#xA;  put on the stack until everything is put onto the battlefield and&#xA;  resolution is complete. The player whose turn it is will put all of&#xA;  his or her triggered abilities on the stack in any order, then each&#xA;  other player in turn order will do the same. (The last ability put on&#xA;  the stack will be the first one that resolves.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T14:11:47.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11715" CreationDate="2013-04-12T14:45:51.387" Score="1" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player in a competitive REL tournament pays 1 mana to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSensei%27s%5d%2b%5bDivining%5d%2b%5bTop%5d&quot;&gt;Sensei&amp;#39;s Divining Top&lt;/a&gt;'s ability to look at the top 3 cards of his library, looks at the 3 cards, changes the order and put them back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Without performing any further actions or saying/implying that the spell is resolved, can that player then return to look at those 3 cards again?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:30:49.900" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:30:49.900" Title="Sensei's Divining Top activations" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11714" CreationDate="2013-04-12T15:32:22.537" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt; they can not look at the cards again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 : Look at the top three cards of your library, then put them back in&#xA;  any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By placing the cards back on the library they have finished taking all the actions the  ability allowed and then it finishes resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were playing a very competitive game, this is not a legal thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think there is any way to interpret the above rule and all its parts to allow a player to re-do the last step of an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore the rules do not have anything in them about a player stating that anything resolves. A spell resolves when all of the steps listed in its text have been completed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2c The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T21:45:20.027" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T21:45:20.027" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11711" CreationDate="2013-04-12T16:55:25.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an ability triggers, all the game does is make a note of it. The triggered ability is only placed on the stack the next time a player would get priority. This is only after &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypergenesis&quot;&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/a&gt; has finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 1) yes, and 2) no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T19:59:35.660" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T19:59:35.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5129" CreationDate="2013-04-12T17:22:50.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have responded 1&amp;spades; to indicate 4+ spades. 1NT response denies 4-card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, your partner reversed. Since you denied 4 spades, opener's rebid 2&amp;spades; is &lt;em&gt;unusual&lt;/em&gt; and hence a &lt;strong&gt;reverse&lt;/strong&gt;. Opener's reverse promises at least invitational values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opener has a minimum hand, he bids no higher than 2&amp;diams;. With a balanced hand, he passes your 1NT. Otherwise, he bids 2&amp;clubs; for 4+ clubs or 2&amp;diams; for 5+ diamonds. These 2m's are non-forcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T17:22:50.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2013-04-12T17:39:58.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a balanced hand, 15-17 HCP, but you don't open 1NT, you may encounter difficulties rebidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you open 1m and your partner responses 1NT, and then you are in a dilemma. Your 2NT rebid promises 18-19 HCP (between 1NT opening and 2NT opening), which is unsuitable now. Sometimes you reverse with a 4-card major and your parter goes 4M with only 8 points. Other times you pass or bid a 3-card suit, but your partner has 9-10 HCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 15-17 HCP, I open 1NT for all 4-3-3-3, 4-4-3-2, 5m-3-3-2, and 5m-4-2-2. Whether to open 1NT for 5M-3-3-2 or 6m-3-2-2 is another question to discuss. Don't forget 1NT opening preempts opponents' majors!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastEditorUserId="5164" LastEditDate="2013-04-12T17:45:08.287" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T17:45:08.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2013-04-12T18:18:29.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/two_hearts_negative.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&amp;hearts; double negative&lt;/a&gt; response, and then 2&amp;diams; can be game-forcing (2 queens or stronger). Most pairs agreeing on this employ 2&amp;spades; for positive spades and 2NT for positive hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also reverse the 2&amp;spades; and 2NT above, making them &lt;em&gt;reverse transfers&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mean the auction 2&amp;clubs;-2&amp;diams;;2NT-3&amp;hearts;/&amp;diams; can be positive 5-card &amp;spades;/&amp;hearts;? The tradeoff is that disastrous 4M+2 and 6M-1 are more likely to happen. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T18:18:29.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11708" CreationDate="2013-04-12T18:43:16.110" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to give absolute answers to some of those scenarios in a vacuum on the internet.  I agree with Hackworth's answer as far as the 'most correct' interpretation based on the rules absent any other information, but you did ask about player communication in a CREL event.  Judges are in fact required to, well, apply judgement in some situations and there is not always a 100% correct answer or 100% repeatability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking scenario C, it could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Storm player is leaning forward over table looking down, holding his hand of cards, taps a swamp and puts down a Ritual and a Tutor, still leaning forward, without looking up, grabs pen with other hand to mark paper then reaches for LEDs.  Opponent says some possibly more polite version of &quot;Haha, you forgot to explicitly retain priority, picking up the pen isn't a game action so it implies you were done casting, GG sucker.&quot;  Storm Player calls for judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Storm player puts down Ritual and Tutor, leans back in chair, puts down hand of cards, makes eye contact with opponent, then picks up pen, marks, then reaches for LEDs.  Opponent calls for judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much as we'd like paper magic to be an absolute black and white game as if we were on MODO, these are different situations and some judges will treat them differently.  That's the reality of a situation that has three human participants.  (Further compounded by the fact that the judge probably didn't actually witness it personally!)  If a head judge gives you a ruling on the day-of, that is the ruling.  &quot;Some guy on the internet said XYZ&quot; will get you nothing but reminded not to argue with judges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T18:43:16.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11708" CreationDate="2013-04-12T19:37:02.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic is &lt;strong&gt;Absolutely not&lt;/strong&gt; a reaction-time game, in-fact it's 100% a turn based game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So When you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=infernal%20tutor&quot;&gt;infernal tutor&lt;/a&gt;, you still have priority, and don't have any specific time restriction on when you can activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=lions%20eye%20diamond&quot;&gt;lions eye diamond&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, If you do pass priority, then you won't get priority again until either after your opponent responds to your spell, or until after &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=infernal%20tutor&quot;&gt;infernal tutor&lt;/a&gt; resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what constitutes communicating that you've passed priority is a grey area.  If you pause, and wait for your opponent, that normally counts as passing priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what some people do is say &amp;quot;I cast X, &lt;strong&gt;retaining priority&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;, so that there's no confusion, so if you want to be extra safe, you can say that after you cast your tutor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-04-12T19:37:02.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9406" CreationDate="2013-04-13T02:41:20.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I frequently open a 15-17 1NT with a small doubleton minor, but guarantee at least Qx or xxx in each major to stand partner's possible weak transfer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand that fails this standard, but does not have a 5-card major, has at least 7 minor suit cards and thus is opening a 4-card or longer minor suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T02:41:20.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11727" CreationDate="2013-04-13T16:31:15.100" Score="6" ViewCount="1578" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a reference to an Avalon Hill game I played decades ago as &quot;Rommel.&quot; My opponent, &quot;Chuck&quot; was one of the best players in our group, I was considered above average, but an underdog compared to Chuck. (This evaluation applied to chess, monopoly and other games, not just AK.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing England, Chuck left a token force in Tobruk, and dared me (Rommel) to capture it. I did so in June, 1941 (basically the first opportunity), using my whole force. He then besieged me in Tobruk, counting on the mountains to double the defense value of his forces. I had two turns to roll for resupply. I would fail only if I rolled a one or two (on a six sided die) BOTH times, one chance in nine. I failed, lost the Afrika Korps, and the game. We had discussed the possible outcomes during the dare so I went in with eyes wide open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you like those (presumed) 8 to 1 odds for Rommel? Did Chuck know what he was doing when he made the dare? Even if this is the case, was my strategy a reasonable do or die strategy that gave me the best chance to win against a better player? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would give the most weight to answers from people who have actually played the game, but would consider answers based on real life. E.g. &quot;Tobruk was such a major objective historically that it's worth staking everything on it, if the game mirrors real life.&quot; Or, &quot;you needed to do something before England receives reinforcements in November.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More tidbits about the game. 1) The British have more combat factors overall. 2) The Germans have more combat factors until November, 1941 when the British receive heavy reinforcements. 3) The Germans have fewer, but more powerful units (e.g. tank divisions with a value of 7, versus a maximum of 4 for British armor, and 3 for British infantry. 4) The British have &quot;automatic&quot; supply, the Germans have to roll for  supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:06:08.980" LastActivityDate="2021-09-29T18:19:44.190" Title="Was I unlucky or outplayed in Afrika Korps?" Tags="|afrika-korps|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11725" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11726" CreationDate="2013-04-13T18:17:04.737" Score="7" ViewCount="1625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are stations allowed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/131188/ticket-to-ride-map-collection-volume-3-the-heart&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride: The Heart of Africa&lt;/a&gt;?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook explicitly mentions that the plastic carriage pieces and scoring markers from the main game are to be used, but doesn't appear to mention stations. We played without stations, and completing routes was much more stressful than a standard game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-14T19:08:24.467" LastActivityDate="2019-12-14T19:08:24.467" Title="Are stations used in Ticket to Ride: The Heart of Africa?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|ticket-to-ride-the-heart-of-africa|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2013-04-13T18:32:23.653" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the rules explicitly state what pieces are required from an earlier set:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This game is an expansion and requires that you use the following game&#xA;  parts from one of the previous versions of Ticket to Ride:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A reserve of 45 Trains per player and matching Scoring Markers taken&#xA;  from any of the following:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  - Ticket to Ride / Ticket to Ride Europe&lt;br/&gt;  110 Train Car Cards taken from:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  - Ticket to Ride / Ticket to Ride Europe / USA 1910 expansion&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything not mentioned in the above list should be considered surplus to official requirements.  Though you could always try playing with stations as an interesting variant!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: yes, without stations Heart of Africa is a very claustrophobic Ticket to Ride game.  But this does seem to have been the intention of the designers, as they've admitted as much in a footnote in the rules booklet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 5 player games, the Heart of Africa (center of the map) area can&#xA;  get crowded very quickly. Players beware! - and if you like your games&#xA;  to be less competitive, stick with 4 players or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-04-13T18:59:54.560" LastActivityDate="2013-04-13T18:59:54.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11724" CreationDate="2013-04-13T23:48:46.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both actually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You were unlucky to not roll for a supply in time to avoid supply death;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;but the first supply to arrive was only keeping you alive, not allowing you to  use the greater mobility of AK to effect. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have never seen, and have difficulty imagining, a situation where a &quot;token force&quot; in Tobruk would have prevented you from using one or two 2-2-4's to restrict the Brit from bottling you up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if you rolled supply at better than the expected rate, I suspect the loss of time you suffered from this escapade was sufficient for the Brits to land their November '41 reinforcements and wall up Alexandria.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great game - I played it extensively in High school, and occasionally in the many years since. Have you checked the archive of &lt;strong&gt;The General&lt;/strong&gt; for the many fine articles on this game and its strategy and tactics? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ahgeneral.org/sale/forsale.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The General Archive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key advantage that the Axis have early in the game is speed. A successful Axis player must use this to compress the British maneuverability early on to ensure a win. Allowing yourself to be bottled up in Tobruk is an anti- pattern for the Axis player, regardless of the importance of Tobruk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-04-14T02:38:00.413" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T02:38:00.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-14T02:47:52.693" Score="4" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there is a space that has one country's tank (Germany for example) and the same space on the board contains water between the enemy's land (UK for example), can the Germany tank attack UK...even though there is water between the two contries but they are in the same space? Or does the tank have to be transported even though it is in the same space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5169" LastEditorUserId="267" LastEditDate="2013-04-14T04:20:38.373" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T22:00:13.350" Title="Can a tank attack across water within the same space (Germany to UK)?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11728" CreationDate="2013-04-14T14:24:16.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tank has to be carried over &quot;water&quot; by a transport. From there, it can debark on any &quot;land&quot; square adjacent to the transport's &quot;stopping&quot; square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the tank unit can't traverse water square by itself (without a transport).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T14:24:16.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11725" CreationDate="2013-04-14T17:01:00.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules only have stations for the europe map. None of the maps are broken by playing with stations, however. I have played the following maps with and without stations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe, USA, Africa, Switzerland, India, Asia, and Legendary Asia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect of adding stations is to reduce the stress (and uncompleted tickets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The USA map is much less cutthroat with stations, but the others only somewhat less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-04-14T17:01:00.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11728" CreationDate="2013-04-14T22:12:09.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the snippet of map we're talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7f3K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;England and Germany in the Axis &amp;amp; Allies map&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three spaces of interest here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;England (a land zone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The water surrounding England (a sea zone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Western Europe (a land zone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are three separate spaces, and must be passed through in turn; Western Europe is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; adjacent to England. &lt;strong&gt;You can't just jump from Western Europe to England, you need to pass through the sea zone on the way there.&lt;/strong&gt; Unfortunately, tanks can't enter sea zones except by boarding a transport.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So getting a tank from Western Europe to England looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A German Tank starts in Western Europe. It can't enter the sea zone, because it's a tank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Germany has a transport in the sea zone surrounding England, and &lt;em&gt;there are no Allied sea units in that zone.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tank boards transport, entering the sea zone in the only way it can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tank exits transport onto England, and gets involved in the combat there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T01:04:20.043" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T01:04:20.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11739" CreationDate="2013-04-15T01:27:26.640" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only set reviews I can find are when the set first comes out. Does anybody know of a reputable site that reviews the cards after a few months when the cards are more established? I am more interested in limited (draft) reviews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1542" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T15:54:41.163" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:21:40.703" Title="Where can I find reviews of a set once it's established?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11735" CreationDate="2013-04-15T03:59:41.983" Score="7" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ravager%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Ravager of the Fells&lt;/a&gt; (the flip-side of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Huntmaster%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Huntmaster of the Fells&lt;/a&gt;) says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever this creature transforms into Ravager of the Fells, it deals 2 damage to target opponent and 2 damage to up to one target creature that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I cannot target my opponent (e.g. due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Witchbane%20Orb&quot;&gt;Witchbane Orb&lt;/a&gt; giving her hexproof)? Are her creatures protected as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T17:05:17.103" Title="What happens if Ravager of the Fells can't target an opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11733" CreationDate="2013-04-15T04:22:24.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's possible to have a &quot;target creature that player controls&quot; if you can't locate a &quot;that player&quot; - by having a legal &quot;target opponent&quot;.  If you can't find an opponent to target, I don't see how much sense can be made of the second part at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My instinct on this one, therefore, is that the second target must be dependent on the first at the point of target selection.  If the player gains hexproof between that time and the point of resolution, it won't do anything to make the target creature illegal, as ikegami has rightly clarified in the comments!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T17:05:17.103" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T17:05:17.103" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11733" CreationDate="2013-04-15T04:43:40.203" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must be able to declare legal targets for &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; targets of a spell or ability. Since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Witchbane%20Orb&quot;&gt;Witchbane Orb&lt;/a&gt; prevents you from targeting your opponent, you cannot choose their creature to target either. Therefore &lt;strong&gt;CR603.3d&lt;/strong&gt; forces you to remove it from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted that if your opponent gains Hexproof after you choose valid targets, the spell will still resolve because the creature is still a valid target (it knows that it is controlled by the same player that you targeted, even if it cannot target that opponent)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1. Some spells and abilities &lt;strong&gt;require their controller to choose one or more targets for them&lt;/strong&gt;.The targets are object(s), player(s), and/or zone(s) the spell or ability will affect. These targets are declared as part of the process of putting the spell or ability on the stack. The targets can't be changed except by another spell or ability that explicitly says it can do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1d A triggered ability is targeted if it identifies something it will affect by using the phrase &amp;quot;target [something],&amp;quot;where the &amp;quot;something&amp;quot; is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone. The target(s) are chosen as the ability is put on the stack;see rule 603.3d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3d The remainder of the process for putting a triggered ability on the stack is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2c–d. If a choice is required when the triggered ability goes on the stack but no legal choices can be made for it, or if a rule or a continuous effect otherwise makes the ability illegal, the ability is simply removed from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2593" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T08:03:38.493" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T08:03:38.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11737" CreationDate="2013-04-15T12:42:11.950" Score="6" ViewCount="2087" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194972&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sensei's Divining Top&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterbalance&quot;&gt;Counterbalance&lt;/a&gt; on the table, with plenty of mana. My opponent casts a spell (for the sake of argument, lets say they cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say &amp;quot;In response, spin the top&amp;quot; i.e. Pay 1 mana to look at the top 3 cards of my library and put them back in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have I missed my Counterbalance trigger?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for an answer based on the Missed Triggers Policy that relates to tournament play of Competitive Rules Enforcement Level (REL) or higher. I would like to know whether, by activating my Divining Top without acknowledging the trigger, I have implicitly &amp;quot;chosen&amp;quot; not to reveal the top card of my library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T14:42:49.273" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:56:58.867" Title="Does activating Sensei's Divining Top make me miss my counterbalance trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11736" CreationDate="2013-04-15T13:40:38.927" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been some changes to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MtG Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regular Rules Enforcement, there are really only two &amp;quot;rules.&amp;quot; You aren't allowed to miss your own triggered abilities, and your opponent isn't required to remind you about them. The second one is a change that was put in at higher RELs a few months ago. Please note that this part applies only to triggered abilities. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new rules require the controller of a triggered ability to &amp;quot;demonstrate awareness&amp;quot; of a trigger before certain times for different types of triggered abilities. If a player fails to do this, the triggered ability is considered missed. What counts as demonstrating awareness? Let's look at the four cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you need to make a choice to reveal the top card of your library or not, this trigger is not considered missed at this time. Your opponent would likely need to ask, &amp;quot;Resolve?&amp;quot; with respect to their spell, and you would have to choose to pass, which would cause the trigger to become &amp;quot;missed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A triggered ability that causes a change in the visible game state (including life totals) or requires a choice upon resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The controller needs to acknowledge the change or choice before taking an action that he or she couldn't take before the ability would resolve. We want to make sure that the triggered ability is actually missed, &lt;strong&gt;so we allow for the possibility that you may cast instants or activate abilities in response.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, if you attack with Geist of Saint Traft and then cast an instant before putting an Angel token onto the battlefield, the rules will assume that Geist's triggered ability is still on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Only after you do something that necessarily has to be after the ability resolved, like attempting to assign combat damage, is the triggered ability considered missed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:55:14.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11736" CreationDate="2013-04-15T14:58:26.680" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you haven't missed the trigger (yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition of a missed trigger is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A triggered ability triggers, but the player controlling the ability doesn’t demonstrate awareness of the trigger’s existence &lt;strong&gt;the first time that it would affect the game in a visible fashion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sentence I bolded is key. For most triggered ability and for Counterbalance's ability specifically, the first time that it would affect the game in a visible fashion is when it would resolve. As long as it hasn't come time to resolve, it hasn't been missed yet. Putting it on the stack is not considered visible, but choosing targets and dealing damage is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cause the game to move forward beyond the point when it would resolve, then it becomes a missed trigger, and the appropriate penalty and remedy are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to all REL. The difference between REL is only in penalties and remedies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-04-15T16:56:58.867" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:56:58.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11732" CreationDate="2013-04-15T16:21:40.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Channelfireball.com&lt;/a&gt; LSV makes a scaling from 1-5 after a few weeks the set is released gives his opinion to each card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T16:21:40.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-15T16:46:57.673" Score="5" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;People really like to have food around during long gaming sessions, to avoid the discomfort of hunger and dehydration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sleeves are pretty useful for keeping crumbs and dirt off your gaming cards. Sometimes, however, a player will knock a drink over onto the table, risking water damage to your hobby materials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How well do typical card sleeves protect game cards from spilled drinks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How effective is double-sleeving in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T01:09:20.400" Title="How well do sleeves protect against spilled drinks?" Tags="|card-sleeves|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11740" CreationDate="2013-04-15T17:00:49.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to be largely based on the situation in both instances of single and double sleeve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The single sleeve will probably not protect if the open end is facing the spill and certainly will not if the spill completely surrounds the card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The double sleeve is going to be better at the directional spill but still cause you problems because it is not sealed. There is still an open end. You may be able to defeat the open end of a double sleeve issue with some clear tape. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also how fast you react to the spill is important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sleeves are not intended to protect from liquids. They can actually cause more harm than good because they are going to be trapping any liquid that contacts them and the card, on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you were going to use sleeves to prevent liquid damage , I would suggest double sleeves with the open end taped.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside: If you wanted to make your cards reasonably spill proof, I suggest getting a food saver and sealing them. Only way you are going to make it air tight and you are going to seal the cards from damage as well as preserve them from oxidation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this is extreme but if you are playing with small children it is sometimes justified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can also cost money and take a lot of time. But you will have a very well sealed card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan on having to make custom boxes also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-04-15T17:00:49.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11740" CreationDate="2013-04-16T01:54:58.223" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My own experience is that, barring using a bag sealer on the sleeves, sleeving is not going to protect against direct spills nor large spills on a hard surface. On a surface that wicks moisture, an indirect spill will not get in. A direct spill (can knocked over onto cards, for example) will penetrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seldom double sleeved, and will note that it's a major pain to get done, requires two sizes of sleeves, and makes the cards really feel wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I've seen a card ruined by a direct spill despite double sleeving - a hockey card, to be specific, which was better material than most game cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T01:09:20.400" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T01:09:20.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11745" CreationDate="2013-04-16T07:19:43.373" Score="4" ViewCount="17508" Body="&lt;p&gt;This past week's game of the week was the '99 (first) version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1381/pokemon-master-trainer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pokémon Master Trainer&lt;/a&gt; board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was not the strategic challenge that I am used to, does anyone have any knowledge of variants to the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We personally came up with a few:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type effectiveness: super-effective attacks do 1.5x damage against&#xA;weak Pokémon &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gym leaders: NPCs that are needed to be defeated before&#xA;entering new areas&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removal of the Trade Cards: they are horrible and&#xA;mean &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raise (or remove) lower limit to enter Indigo Plateau: players&#xA;enter the &quot;final battle&quot; far too unprepared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone else have any other variants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4902" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-25T21:48:31.743" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T01:35:40.063" Title="What are some house rules to improve Pokémon Master Trainer?" Tags="|house-rules|pokemon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-02-25T23:52:59.443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2013-04-16T12:31:26.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my circle we have played that game numerous times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things that worked for us to adjust the 'strategy' of the game are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EXP and LVL: if you have a lot of D6 lying around ( I buy them 18 at a time from our local dollar store) you can use them to track level on your pokemon. Then each time a pokemon wins more battles than they currently are in level you can roll the die up. Each level adds 1 to their power. We did this to try and balance the fact that it was fairly impossible to beat an elite four battle without having two +5 item cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow random battles: Instead of capturing being the only option when you land, allow the pokemon to fight. You roll two dice for the 'wild' pokemon and you can fight as usual. If the pokemon is 'defeated' you can place a marker on it. This marker acts as a permanent + or - 1 to catch. This adds a level of strategy because it may make more sense in the red area to try and defeat rather than catch first, however you better be sure you can get back to that square before someone comes in and snatches it up.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow rolls to 'ace': If a D6 is rolled in battle and rolls a six it can be rolled again. This helped again get around the fact that you needed +5 items to beat the final battle. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now these things don't necessarily affect the strategy of the game, but it does lead to a more entertaining game and it does give incentives to use more than one pokemon. We found ourselves using the mystery dungeon or 'evolved combo' pokemon only and that was not fun. The level up system lets you use pokemon that are weak through to the end of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trade cards though 'horrible and mean' serve a very important purpose. They keep one person with a set of beastly pokemon from ruling the game. Without it you can easily get one person with three of the four mystery dungeon pokemon and that is more unfair than having one snatched from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T12:36:10.750" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T12:36:10.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11748" CreationDate="2013-04-16T13:40:59.277" Score="4" ViewCount="9295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm staring at the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Possibility%20Storm&quot;&gt;Possibility Storm&lt;/a&gt; coming out of Dragon's Gate and thinking about cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Mind&quot;&gt;Hive Mind&lt;/a&gt; that would add some additional chaos. The wording on Possibility Storm says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a player casts a spell from his or her hand, that player exiles it, then exiles cards from the top of his or her library until he or she exiles a card that shares a card type with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wording makes me think that the initial spell makes it onto the stack before being exiled, since when it is cast it would hit the stack. It doesn't use the replacement wording &amp;quot;instead,&amp;quot; which might indicate that the original spell is never cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Possibility Storm put the original spell on the stack before casting the second spell from the library? If so, does this mean that Hive Mind would trigger for the first card (assuming it was an instant or sorcery) because it was cast? Would it also create copies for the second card, since it is also cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quick note:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm also assuming that a player couldn't use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Replicate&quot;&gt;Replicate&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reiterate&quot;&gt;Reiterate&lt;/a&gt; to copy the first spell since all effects of the Possibility Storm would need to happen before someone has priority to do so. The first spell would have been removed from the stack when it gets exiled, so someone wouldn't be able to sneak in a copy spell at that point. I'm also curious if I'm correct here, although it seems like if this is true, then Hive Mind wouldn't be able to sneak in a copy, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2023-12-21T17:20:10.733" LastActivityDate="2023-12-21T17:20:10.733" Title="Does the first spell from Possibility Storm go on the stack before being exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11746" CreationDate="2013-04-16T13:57:02.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;111.1 A spell is a card on the stack. As the first step of being cast, the card becomes a spell and is moved to the top of the stack from the&#xA;  zone it was in...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes the spell hits the top of the stack, and as soon as that happens the triggered ability of the Possibility Storm is placed on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens next can be strange thanks to 603.b:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player&#xA;  received priority, each player in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;  abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;  chooses...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you controlled the Possibility Storm and the Hive Mind you choose how they go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had one or the other, yours would go on first and then the other player's would go on next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So yes, the spell hits the stack to trigger the ability of the possibility storm before the second spell is cast and hive mind would trigger also.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Hive Mind spells do not trigger the Possibility Storm or Hive Mind again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your quick note: I would say they can absolutely play one of those spells because they go on the stack above the Possibility Storm effect. They would resolve before the Possibility Storm ability does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.1 Each time all players pass in sucession, the spell or ability on the top of the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T20:35:25.997" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:35:25.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11746" CreationDate="2013-04-16T14:36:00.657" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reiterate&quot;&gt;Reiterate&lt;/a&gt; first since it's simpler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have a Possibility Storm on the 'field and you cast some arbitrary spell, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;. Here's how things would unfold without Reiterate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put it on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay its cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability resolves. Let's say you find &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtflare&quot;&gt;Thoughtflare&lt;/a&gt; and choose to cast it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoughtflare resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cast Reiterate in response to Possibility Storm's triggered ability (step 3), but if you do, it will trigger Possibility Storm and get exiled, so you won't get to copy the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could somehow cast Reiterate from somewhere other than your hand (maybe with the help of Possibility Storm), this is how it would work out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put it on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay its cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cast Reiterate (from somewhere other than your hand) targeting Lightning Bolt.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reiterate resolves. Lightning Bolt is copied.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lightning Bolt-copy resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability resolves. Let's say you find &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtflare&quot;&gt;Thoughtflare&lt;/a&gt; and choose to cast it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoughtflare resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Mind&quot;&gt;Hive Mind&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Replicate&quot;&gt;Replicate&lt;/a&gt;, we have two triggered abilities that trigger at the same time. When that happens, the abilities are added to the stack in APNAP order. If a player needs to add more than one ability to the stack, they place them in the order of their choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have a Possibility Storm on the 'field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He casts Gigadrowse on his turn, replicating it twice.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibility Storm's ability and Replicate triggers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replicate is put on the stack first (since he's the active player).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibility Storm's ability is put on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability resolves. Let's say he finds &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtflare&quot;&gt;Thoughtflare&lt;/a&gt; and chooses to cast it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoughtflare resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replicate resolves: Two copies of Gigadrowse are added to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gigadrowse-copy-2 resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gigadrowse-copy-1 resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He casts Gigadrowse on your turn, replicating it twice.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibility Storm's ability and Replicate triggers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibility Storm's ability is put on the stack first (since you're the active player).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replicate is put on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replicate resolves: Two copies of Gigadrowse are added to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gigadrowse-copy-2 resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gigadrowse-copy-1 resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability resolves. Let's say he finds &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtflare&quot;&gt;Thoughtflare&lt;/a&gt; and chooses to cast it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thoughtflare resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Gigadrowse, replicating it twice.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility Storm's ability and Replicate triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You control both Possibility Storm and Gigadrowse, so you decide the order they are placed on the stack. This becomes Scenario 1 or 2 depending on your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same as Replicate applies to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Mind&quot;&gt;Hive Mind&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T20:22:49.833" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T20:22:49.833" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11750" CreationDate="2013-04-16T15:58:08.140" Score="4" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141221&amp;amp;d=1365653080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Varolz, the Scar-Striped&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each creature card in you graveyard has scavenge. Their scavenge cost is equal to its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple: do I get to choose which side I can scavenge? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:27:09.727" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:27:09.727" Title="Varolz, the Scar-Striped rulings with double-faced/flip cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11749" CreationDate="2013-04-16T16:08:53.300" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is simple: No. You must choose the card's front face (the face which has the sun symbol in the top-left corner.) In the case of flip cards, you must choose the card's normal characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule reference:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;711.2a In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield with its front face up, a double-faced card has only the characteristics of the front face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;709.2. In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield before the permanent flips, a flip card has only the normal characteristics of the card. Once a permanent is flipped, its normal name, text box, type line, power, and toughness don't apply and the alternative versions of those characteristics apply instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T18:23:38.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11740" CreationDate="2013-04-16T16:25:42.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an alternative suggestion (considering the effort involved in effectively laminating your deck), I would suggest proxying your entire deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common printer can create an excellent facsimile of any card, and printing out a copy of your deck could be easier than making it vacuum-sealed.  Then you'd get to play with your cards as, you know, cards.  If you like that sort of thing.  Which I do.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as a bonus, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5712&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chaos Confetti&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-04-16T16:25:42.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11755" CreationDate="2013-04-17T15:07:24.147" Score="12" ViewCount="24435" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141426&amp;amp;d=1366139771&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Notion Thief&lt;/a&gt;'s text reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an opponent would draw a card except the first one he or she draws&#xA;in each of his or her draw steps, instead that player skips that draw&#xA;and you draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both players have a Notion Thief in play and one casts a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Think%20Twice&quot;&gt;Think Twice&lt;/a&gt;, What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T08:20:40.590" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T13:15:26.507" Title="How do two Notion Thieves interact with each other?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11753" CreationDate="2013-04-17T15:59:31.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They cancel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice casts Think Twice, it resolves, and Alice is instructed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw a card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob's Notion Thief's replacement effect kicks in, changing the instruction to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bob draws a card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then one looks if any other replacement effects apply. Alice's Notion Thief's replacement effect kicks in, changing the instruction to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Alice draws a card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's the final effect. Bob's Notion Thief has already modified the event, so it can't modify it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.5. A replacement effect doesn’t invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;616.1e Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated (taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable) until there are no more left to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;616.2. A replacement or prevention effect can become applicable to an event as the result of another replacement or prevention effect that modifies the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T16:04:40.113" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T16:04:40.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11689" CreationDate="2013-04-17T16:02:59.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's pretty much how the game is designed. It is a catch-22; sure, it's completely &quot;random&quot; and new every time, but that also means it's impossible to predict and balance accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something me and my friends do when these &quot;broken&quot; haunts happen is tweak the conditions around a bit. An example would be haunts that require exorcisms: If we are all high sanity/knowledge characters, we may add 1 or 2 to the number of successes needed, or subtract them if we are dumb/insane. It helps to create an even playing field at the start of the haunt, but still leaves opportunity for game-changers as the game goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5183" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2013-04-19T20:21:13.497" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T20:21:13.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11753" CreationDate="2013-04-17T16:03:38.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each Notion Thief's replacement effect is applied only once.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If we both have an equal number of Notion Thieves in play, the original player will draw the card(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If one of us has more Notion Thieves than the other, then that player will get to draw the card(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the relevant comp rules, in detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen -- they aren't locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like &amp;quot;shields&amp;quot; around whatever they're affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1a &lt;strong&gt;Effects that use the word &amp;quot;instead&amp;quot; are replacement effects&lt;/strong&gt;. Most replacement effects use the word &amp;quot;instead&amp;quot; to indicate what events will be replaced with other events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.5. &lt;strong&gt;A replacement effect doesn't invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: A player controls two permanents, each with an ability that reads &amp;quot;If a creature you control would deal damage to a creature or player, it deals double that damage to that creature or player instead.&amp;quot; A creature that normally deals 2 damage will deal 8 damage -- not just 4, and not an infinite amount.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;616.1e &lt;strong&gt;Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated (taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable) until there are no more left to apply.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: Two permanents are on the battlefield. One is an enchantment that reads &amp;quot;If a card would be put into a graveyard from anywhere, instead exile it,&amp;quot; and the other is a creature that reads &amp;quot;If [this creature] would be put into a graveyard from the battlefield, instead shuffle it into its owner's library.&amp;quot; If the creature is destroyed, its controller decides which replacement to apply first; the other does nothing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: Essence of the Wild reads &amp;quot;Creatures you control enter the battlefield as a copy of Essence of the Wild.&amp;quot; A player who controls Essence of the Wild casts Rusted Sentinel, which normally enters the battlefield tapped. As it enters the battlefield, the copy effect from Essence of the Wild is applied first. As a result, it no longer has the ability that causes it to enter the battlefield tapped. Rusted Sentinel will enter the battlefield as an untapped copy of Essence of the Wild.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;616.2. &lt;strong&gt;A replacement or prevention effect can become applicable to an event as the result of another replacement or prevention effect that modifies the event.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: One effect reads &amp;quot;If you would gain life, draw that many cards instead,&amp;quot; and another reads &amp;quot;If you would draw a card, return a card from your graveyard to your hand instead.&amp;quot; Both effects combine (regardless of the order they came into existence): Instead of gaining 1 life, the player puts a card from his or her graveyard into his or her hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We both control a Notion Thief.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Think%20Twice&quot;&gt;Think Twice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you would draw cards, my Notion Thief's replacement effect is applied, allowing me to draw the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since now I would draw cards, your Notion Theif's replacement effect is applied, allowing you to draw the card (per 616.1e and 616.2).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My Notion Thief has already modified the game action; I don't apply him again (per 614.5). If I flashed in a second one before Think Twice resolved, however, I would get to apply &lt;em&gt;that one's&lt;/em&gt; ability and draw the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=504178&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's confirmation from Judge Emeritus Sheldon Menery&lt;/a&gt;, with an explanation of how the cards work in multiplayer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two replacement effects try to modify the same event, the controller of the affected permanent, ability, or spell chooses which applies, but that's not significant until you add additional players. In a two player game, they wash out. You go to draw a card. Mine replaces that with me drawing, which yours then replaces with you drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It gets ugly in a multiplayer game when B and C both have one and A tries to draw. Since it's my draw that's being replaced, I choose B's replacement to replace it, but then C's replaces that when B tries to draw. Effectively, the player without one gets to pick who draws &amp;quot;his&amp;quot; card(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is possible to get a card-drawing loop with Notion Thief and another card, if that card a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt; like &amp;quot;Whenever an opponent draws a card&amp;quot; rather than a replacement effect. Prominent examples include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Consecrated%20Sphinx&quot;&gt;Consecrated Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psychic%20Posession&quot;&gt;Psychic Posession&lt;/a&gt;. What happens in this case is that the Notion Thief will cause each of the draw triggers to trigger another one, causing the Notion Thief's controller to deck himself unless the loop is interrupted by destroying one of the permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T13:15:26.507" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T13:15:26.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9659" CreationDate="2013-04-17T16:07:41.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, it's saying you can do either token as you want. The number of either token must equal the given amount (this changes on different haunts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you need number of tokens = number of players (6 in this example) to win. You can have 3 knowledge and 3 sanity, 2 knowledge and 4 sanity, or just all 6 knowledge. Those are all valid conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instruction to set them aside is just to get them out of your storage area for easy access (and as I explained earlier, some tokens could be used more than others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5183" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T01:10:35.883" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T01:10:35.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8279" CreationDate="2013-04-17T16:22:44.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer&lt;/strong&gt;: They are all balanced in their own way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer&lt;/strong&gt;: Each character has strengths and weaknesses, some are harder to spot than others. For example the professor and priest as you pointed out, are mental, but if you look at their stat growth and starting abilities, the priest has more stats that go up to 8, but the professor as more stable stats. It's like this for all the characters. Flash and Ox are both relatively weak mentally, but they each can grow in different directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this answer doesn't make much sense, honestly this is a difficult question to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5183" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2013-04-17T16:35:51.837" LastActivityDate="2013-04-17T16:35:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11767" CreationDate="2013-04-18T08:44:25.773" Score="6" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Great Unclean One upgrade card says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Immediately place two corruption tokens in a region when you summon a&#xA;  Great Unclean One there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These corruption tokens appear outside of the normal Corruption phase, so it's not clear how they interact with region ruination. The rules (p.19) say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To resolve the corruption step... players count the total number of corruption tokens in the region... If this total is 12 or more, that region is RUINED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then each player who placed at least one corruption token in that region during this corruption step immediately scores the same number of victory points indicated for ruiners on that ruination card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If placing the Great Unclean One pushed the total number of corruption tokens to 12 or more, is the region immediately ruined? Or does ruination not occur until the Corruption phase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Nurgle player's corruption tokens were not placed during the corruption step. Does the Nurgle player count as a ruiner for VPs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T15:44:10.627" Title="Can a Great Unclean One ruin regions immediately on summoning?" Tags="|chaos-in-the-old-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11765" CreationDate="2013-04-18T14:39:31.653" Score="4" ViewCount="3230" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature with regeneration. My opponent responds to me activating regeneration with the Turn side of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn // Burn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I then activate regeneration again to make it a 0/1 weird with regeneration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:20:03.987" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:20:03.987" Title="Can regeneration save my creatures from Turn // Burn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11764" CreationDate="2013-04-18T14:54:29.047" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can activate an activated ability as often as you can pay its activation cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you don't need to. The ability will still resolve even if the creature no longer has the ability when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say the creature in question is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dutiful%20Thrull&quot;&gt;Dutiful Thrull&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; targeting your Dutiful Thrull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you activate its ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, he casts Turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn resolves: The Dutiful Thrull is now a 0/1 red Weird with no abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dutiful Thrull's ability resolves: A regeneration shield is placed on Dutiful Thrull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shock resolves: It deals two damage to the 0/1 Dutiful Thrull.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs are performed: The creature would be destroyed, but the regen shield kicks in. Dutiful Thrull is tapped, removed from combat and all marked damage is removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could activate Dutiful Thrull's ability a second time between steps 3 and 4, which will give it a second shield for later on in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T15:00:38.290" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T15:00:38.290" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11760" CreationDate="2013-04-18T15:34:02.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/chaos_in_the_old_world/FAQ/CitOW_FAQ-v2_web.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Errata&#xA;  Rulebook (pages 19–20)&#xA;  If a region is ruined, each player who placed at least&#xA;  one corruption token in that region during this round&#xA;  immediately scores the number of victory points&#xA;  indicated for ruiners on that ruination card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that means the Nurgle player would count as a ruiner if that region was ruined that turn. However, ruination is only checked in the ruination phase, and so the region would not be ruined immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-04-18T15:44:10.627" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T15:44:10.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-18T15:41:32.257" Score="17" ViewCount="902" Body="&lt;p&gt;When our group plays longer games (6+ hours), we usually choose games where players who fall behind still have chances to recover, so all players remain interested in and engaged with the game.  (Examples: Advanced Civilization, 7 Ages, the crayon rail games.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes we want to play games where, once you fall behind, you're pretty much out of luck -- games like RuneBound or Titan, for instance.  But our gaming has a social component that is as strong as the gaming itself and we don't want to break that.  Even if dropping out of the game doesn't appreciably change the game for the remaining players (not always a safe bet!), &quot;go read a book until someone else drops out and you can play another game on the side&quot; is no fun.  This is particularly frustrating for people who get knocked out an hour or two into a game that's going to run for several more hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when we find ourselves in this situation we call the game early, but that means we miss out on the end-game.  What other general approaches to this problem could we take?  Or are there no general approaches, and we should look within each game for house rules that allow one to continue playing at some ultimate scoring penalty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T18:26:43.153" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T15:43:21.293" Title="What to do in long games with players who are way behind?" Tags="|house-rules|etiquette|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8279" CreationDate="2013-04-18T19:15:27.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of it is going to come down to which scenario you end up with... which isn't any help when trying to choose a character at the start. Some scenarios will punish you if you are low in sanity, others if you are low in strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, speed is the one thing that tends to be helpful in every scenario... some scenarios will make your level 8 intelligence 100% worthless... but every scenario can make use of speed. Because of this, I think Flash tends to be the &quot;safest&quot; character. You know that your best stat isn't going to go to waste. The trade-off is that you probably won't win the game with your speed alone. You'll still need a teammate with something else that's high, or to pump up other stats yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what's important isn't just to look at what's best for your own character, but what's best for your team. You want at least 1 character who is at least decent in every stat, because you never know which stat needs to be high to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as already mentioned, be sure to look at all 3 factors for a stat: The starting value, the maximum value, and the progression. If going up just 1 point jumps you from 3 to 5, that's a lot better than if you need 2 points just to add 1 die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-04-18T19:15:27.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-04-19T04:10:03.553" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The games you are talking about are ones that possess a &lt;strong&gt;positive feedback loop&lt;/strong&gt; for players who are in the lead, causing them to continue to be in the lead in an exponential way.  This is generally considered &lt;strong&gt;bad game design&lt;/strong&gt; for the exact reason you are implying.  As such, you have two simple options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop playing these games, due to their flaw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create house rules to improve them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter may be more difficult than you think, however, and the idea you've suggested only exacerbates the problem.  As an example, the game &lt;em&gt;The Scepter of Zavandor&lt;/em&gt; was heavily inspired by an earlier game, &lt;em&gt;Outpost.&lt;/em&gt;  While Outpost had an exponential growth mechanic with nothing to curb the positive feedback, Scepter had a mechanic that slightly inconvenienced players who were in the lead while benefiting players who were behind.  These effects were not substantial enough to punish the winning players or desensitize them from continuing to try and win, but it did act as a &lt;strong&gt;Comeback Mechanic&lt;/strong&gt; to an extent.  These types of mechanics are more prevalent in modern games, such as &lt;strong&gt;X-Factor&lt;/strong&gt; in &lt;em&gt;Marvel vs Capcom 3&lt;/em&gt;.  If you wish to improve the games you are playing, use these mechanics as a baseline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T04:10:03.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-19T08:04:31.147" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing/studying SAYC. So I know that game in major comes first then notrump then game in minors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I open with 1 Club partner responds with 1 Spade -- I have 18PTS and 4 hearts and NT distribution, should I bid 2Hhearts, 3Hearts, or 1NT?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-08T02:28:22.570" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T02:28:22.570" Title="Opener rebid priority" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11771" CreationDate="2013-04-19T12:37:15.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;With SAYC a balanced hand would &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onent.com/handouts/natural_notrump.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;normally be bid&lt;/a&gt; as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;13-14 points - open 1 of a suit then rebid 1NT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15-17 points - open 1NT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18-19 points - open 1 of a suit then rebid 2NT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20-21 points - open 2NT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your rebid should be 2NT. If you bid this, your partner has a very good idea of what you've got and can then decide how best to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that when your partner responded he should have been &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://home.comcast.net/~kwbridge/up.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;bidding up the line&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. So if he had the same number of hearts and spades, he would bid hearts rather than spades. A heart fit is therefore unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T12:37:15.147" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-04-19T12:48:25.933" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing games that are supposed to eliminate some of the players and then speed up, you can always play as teams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my group games with that kind of mechanic do not work, we are simply either too competitive or too strategic to come to an entertaining experience for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lead us to play in teams so that if one 'player' loses there are always two people that can start playing something else to be entertained while the rest sort out what happens next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play in teams in two ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first way is a strict team. Two people per avatar army or whatever else represents a player in a game. In games that take a long time to play because of strategy or because of a dominance mechanic, this works out because it lessens the amount of players and it gives you a chance to collaborate and play in a style that you may not normally play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our group we have players that are volatile and risky and players that are very reserved. Usually when we make teams we put one reserved and one volatile together. It leads to very interesting game play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second way to play teams is to play a cooperative version of a game. That is to say each 'player' on a team gets his own avatar/army whatever represents a player in a game, and for all intents and purposes, they must win together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to very interesting play also because you must choose sometimes to forget about your own ambitions and do something to help your struggling teammate to get to a better place in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We frequently play that this alliance is only skin deep however. When there is only one 'team' left (2 players), it becomes a rather quick game of 'back stab your brother' to see who ultimately wins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my favorite kind of 'team' play because you are going to help your 'teammate' but only enough that once you two have eliminated the competition you can still compete with one another. It gives you a reason to play with another player but only enough motivation to keep them from losing, not outright ensure they prosper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this mechanic added to a game you need to add some simple rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As long as you and your team mate are not the only players in the game, you may not take actions against one another. That is to say you can't fight each other or otherwise do things that would detriment the other player unless the only action you can take is to do so.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a single member of an opposing team is eliminated, the other member of the team is eliminated also. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do admit that this leads to a fair amount of people who cede once they are on the remaining team, but that is OK because there is still a clear winner and everyone got to play together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your mileage may very but we have had lots of fun playing this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T12:48:25.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11777" CreationDate="2013-04-19T17:03:09.963" Score="0" ViewCount="1934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I animate my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366357&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Simic Keyrune&lt;/a&gt; into a 2/3 artifact creature. Will it evolve my 1/1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fathom Mage&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-04-19T17:13:16.283" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:19:31.280" Title="Does transforming keyrunes count towards Evolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11776" CreationDate="2013-04-19T17:04:07.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Evolve triggers on creatures entering the battlefield, and the Keyrune must necessarily be on the the battlefield to use its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing an object's characteristics (power, toughenss, type, etc) does not cause it to enter or leave the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.99a Evolve is a triggered ability. “Evolve” means “Whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, if that creature’s power is greater than this creature’s power and/or that creature’s toughness is greater than this creature’s toughness, put a +1/+1 counter on this creature.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:19:31.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:19:31.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-04-19T18:00:22.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In games where it is safe for players to drop out, but there's a tendency for them to cling to life for a while with no chance of winning, the most effective modification may in fact be to encourage them to drop out. This could be a metagame thing (saying &quot;it's fine to concede&quot;) or an in-game thing (house rules to help put losing players out of their misery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously it's not perfect, but especially if you can manage to get &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; players knocked out, they can start a quick side game while the others finish. And sometimes games are faster with fewer players, so it may also help reduce the amount of time they have to wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T18:00:22.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11771" CreationDate="2013-04-19T19:14:27.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should rebid 2NT. Your partner is unlikely to have 4 hearts, though it is still possible for 5-4 or 5-5 majors. He should have bidden 1&amp;hearts; for 4-4 majors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2NT rebid often makes you the declarer, hiding your strong hand. You will not lose 4-4 heart fit since he can bid 3&amp;hearts; for 4 hearts (and hence 5 spades). If your partner were the declarer, 4M is &lt;em&gt;less scary&lt;/em&gt; than 3NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, 2&amp;hearts; reverse is for &lt;strong&gt;unbalanced&lt;/strong&gt; hands. With an unbalanced hand, you dislike dangerous 3NT. This also promises 5+ clubs. (With 0-3 spades, 4+ hearts, 2-4 clubs, the hand is either balanced or an 1&amp;diams; opener.)  You are more likely to go to a correct club contract, such as 5&amp;clubs; or slams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also suggest 3&amp;hearts; jump reverse for 6 clubs and 5 hearts without game-forcing values. It takes up much space, but it precisely describes hands difficult to bid. With game-forcing values, you have unambiguous &quot;2&amp;hearts; reverse then 3&amp;hearts;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5164" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T19:14:27.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2013-04-19T23:10:32.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;. Opponent plays a land. Tap Ghost quarter to destroy the land they just played. They search for a land and put it into play. You drop 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archive%20Trap&quot;&gt;Archive Trap&lt;/a&gt;s on them for 52 cards.  If they are running 60 cards, that would be their entire deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5194" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-19T23:51:48.890" LastActivityDate="2013-04-19T23:51:48.890" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2013-04-20T14:04:58.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike GO, handicapping chess with missing pieces completely distorts the game; it is better to handicap on time. Buy a a chess clock, and use it for the game. Give yourself 5 minutes for a game, and give your son 60-75 minutes or more. This will give him a chance to actually win (because you are under such time pressure). From the start let him know that whenever he wins twice in a row, you increase your time by 1 minute for future games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing in his small world will compete with the thrill of his first victory against Dad; with the first victory against Dad at 30 minutes; and the first victory against Dad at even time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy two small chess books on openings and combinations for yourself (not for him, hint hint, as that would be to much pressure) and leave them (in a book case or similar) where he can find them &lt;strong&gt;accidentally&lt;/strong&gt;. Second hand books would be even better than new, so they look like old books of yours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prepare to be amazed at his progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T14:04:58.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11358" CreationDate="2013-04-20T15:16:17.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends heavily on what the opponent has done so far with his runners. If both runners are still on your 1 point, or if only one runner remains in your home board, slotting forward from your 6 point often has a good risk reward. If two split runners exist in your home board (or one runner and one or more opposing men on the bar), you must be much more cautious slotting in your home board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the thickness of your wall to date allows more aggressive play moving it forward. If you have pointed on 5-6-7-8 already, slotting on 4 might be considered even against split runners, but the shape of your opponents home board is important also. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weighing all these factors is good judgement, which comes only form the experience of having made decisions with bad judgement and learning form it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-20T15:16:17.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8353" CreationDate="2013-04-20T15:19:27.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To prevent the lead form RHO through your tenace, you want to win the ace when RHO plays his last card in the suit. If it looks like LHO has 5 cards, with three in dummy and your hand, win the second round with the ace. If you have only two in had with three in dummy, win the third round with the ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards your Club Kibitzer - yes, the proffered advice is in general sound - however, the cardinal rule is always &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Count the hand&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. If you have counted the hand, the answer is often obvious and possibly counter-intuitive from the &lt;em&gt;general rule&lt;/em&gt; suggested by heuristic analysis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2019-08-30T23:33:29.000" LastActivityDate="2019-08-30T23:33:29.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11787" CreationDate="2013-04-20T20:22:47.203" Score="1" ViewCount="1395" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand, Cipher works like so: when a card that contains Cipher is cast, you encode it onto a spell on the battlefield, like a creature for example. Every time that creature attacks and deals damage to a player, a copy of the encoded creature is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent does not have anything to block a flying creature I've encoded, and for 3 turns straight I can deal damage with the creature that was encoded, does it result in 3 copies? Can you only make one copy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5196" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-20T22:46:11.890" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T06:49:53.240" Title="Can I have multiple copies of a creature with Cipher?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11786" CreationDate="2013-04-20T20:31:39.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cipher copies the encoded &lt;em&gt;spell&lt;/em&gt;, not the creature - have another look at the reminder text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you may exile this spell card encoded on a creature you control. Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of &lt;strong&gt;this card&lt;/strong&gt; without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;This card&amp;quot; is referring to the card it's printed on, the spell with cipher. So if for example you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Last%20Thoughts&quot;&gt;Last Thoughts&lt;/a&gt; (allowing you to draw a card) and encode it on a creature, each time that creature deals combat damage to a player, you get to re-cast Last Thoughts for free (and draw another card). This can happen as many times as you can manage to deal combat damage to a player with the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should also point out: you can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; encode it onto a creature, not anything else on the battlefield. (And, I know it sounds pedantic, but there's no such thing as a spell on the battlefield - things on the battlefield are called &amp;quot;permanents&amp;quot;, a word you'll see on some cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this makes more sense to you than copying the creature - you're encoding the spell onto the creature, tying them together, so that the creature can cause the spell to be cast again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T06:49:53.240" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T06:49:53.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9696" CreationDate="2013-04-22T01:58:10.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Apparently the ship can't turn and can only go forward, with a bit of steering.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct, this is something my heroes often complain about that I explain by saying the map is too small for the ship to turn meaningfully. It's a design flaw that isn't easily fixed without changing the course so it isn't squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The rocks sink the ship oneshot, and are hardly avoidable right at the beginning on the battle map we got (Wild Vortex)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your crew has some options here. The obvious, and kind of difficult one, is scoot the ship towards the vortex until it clears that troublesome chunk of three rocks. At that point the ship should be able to avoid the vortex and/or flee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I made a house rule where players are allowed to roll to stabilize the wheel to prevent the ship from being dragged by the current. So long as the number of movement points rolled by the hero holding the wheel exceeds or is equal to the distance tugged horizontally by the current, the ship doesn't move. This helps avoid unintentional death that does seem pretty unfair. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About fleeing, since the rocks are placed rather inconveniently for a quick escape for the Revenge, I think a loophole in the rules is for the heroes to simply swim off the edge of the ship. While I didn't allow this for some time, in rereading the rulebook, I found something weird on page 18: &quot;a lieutenant may flee off of the board through an edge of the map just like a hero.&quot; While the game doesn't really say heroes specifically can do this before this part is mentioned, it does say that lieutenants can leave off the edge of the map, just like a hero, so it follows heroes can leave just like lieutenants. A bit of a lame escape, swimming away from your ship. Surely you wouldn't die that way! But apparently it's allowed, and I don't like ignoring rules that help the heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The lieutenant (Siren) can move freely 10 spaces in the water and go behind the ship.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I would prefer hiding behind the rocks to try and draw the Revenge closer to an accidental death, going behind the ship is a pretty clever trick. The quickest solution would be to drop anchor to prevent the Siren from taking too much advantage of a blind spot, or you could always flee. A riskier attack plan would be to try and use the cannon's Knockback ability to maneuver her into the center of the vortex, immediately killing her. Since she can swim though, it's unlikely she'll be dragged in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Because of this the players are forced to swim ti go hit the siren, but they don't have Swim and the current is moving them in the opposite direction.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like the players aren't placing themselves so they current does their work for them, allowing them to move towards the Siren rather than past her. In general, the best solution for this appears to be to flee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The cannon is also useless here because of distance and accuracy.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than giving the Overlord a pat on the back for avoiding some devastating cannon fire, my only concern for your heroes is the singular. Tell them to get some more cannons. If they can't kill the Siren on this encounter draw, they should flee and draw a new zone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the best solution for the heroes here is to run away. The Siren has quite an advantage if the Overlord is willing to wait, but the heroes can be patient and wait her out too with carefully placed rest orders (trust me, my heroes did it to me). Another zone will probably present a more favorable outcome for the heroes (see whichever terrible zone lets them control the sharks). Outfitting the ship properly should happen quickly too to prevent the Overlord from having too much of an advantage at sea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5202" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T06:50:52.743" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T06:50:52.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11793" CreationDate="2013-04-22T02:34:45.310" Score="5" ViewCount="2677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a &amp;quot;deck builders&amp;quot; kit that included, among other things, a Dark Ascension booster with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scorned%20Villager&quot;&gt;Scorned Villager&lt;/a&gt; (a double-sided card) in it. It did &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; include a checklist card for me to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I wanted to use this in tournament play, I realize I'd have to buy sleeves or acquire more checklists, but for now I'm mostly playing casual games. Are there any alternatives that would be &amp;quot;generally accepted&amp;quot; among M:TG players for using these cards? e.g. marking up the face of some land card to indicate that it's really my Scorned Villager?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, is there a good place to get checklist cards that won't also result in getting more double-sided cards to go along with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5132" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:27:03.607" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:27:03.607" Title="How can I used double-faced cards in casual play without checklist cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2013-04-22T03:55:32.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use a different card from your collection as a proxy (whether you mark it or not is up to you). This should be fine in a casual setting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure to let your opponent know before hand and pick a card that wouldn't normally be playable in your deck (eg off-color) to avoid confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5203" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T03:55:32.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11790" CreationDate="2013-04-22T05:01:31.563" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A checklist card is simply a tournament-sanctioned proxy with a specialized purpose. In casual play, you could make a proxy more-or-less any way you want. &lt;strong&gt;Writing with a marker on a basic land&lt;/strong&gt; is probably the most common custom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend including the mana cost as well as the card's name, so you can quickly tell whether you are able to cast it without having to look over at your double-faced cards outside of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to get some more of the official checklist cards, you can &lt;strong&gt;buy them online for about 10 cents each through a major singles dealer&lt;/strong&gt; like Star City Games or Channel Fireball (since they resell the token cards that come in boosters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Innistrad and Dark Ascension have their own separate checklist cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T05:01:31.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11795" CreationDate="2013-04-22T10:06:55.977" Score="2" ViewCount="4886" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valakut%2C%20The%20Molten%20Pinnacle&quot;&gt;Valakut, The Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt; has an effect that triggers when mountains enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a mountain enters the battlefield, if you control 5 or more other mountains, Valakut deals 3 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has for example 4 mountains and 3 forests in play, and casts a spell such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Harrow&quot;&gt;Harrow&lt;/a&gt;, sacrificing a forest to fetch 2 mountains, bringing the total count up to 6, does Valakut trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work with a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scapeshift&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt;, which would allow you to sacrifice all of your lands and fetch a valakut and 6 mountains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-04-22T14:47:33.490" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:24:14.820" Title="How does Valakut trigger with a card like Harrow or Scapeshift putting multiple mountains into play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-11-18T23:24:20.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11794" CreationDate="2013-04-22T10:06:55.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Valakut, The molten Pinaccle's trigger uses an &quot;intervening if&quot; clause to control the trigger. this means that the condition of triggering is checked both &lt;strong&gt;when the trigger condition is met&lt;/strong&gt; (when a mountain is played, check if there are 5 other mountains) and &lt;strong&gt;when the trigger resolves&lt;/strong&gt; (if there are still 5 other mountains when the trigger resolves, nothing happens)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at either point there are not 5 other mountains in play, then the trigger does nothing. this gives opponents an opportunity to destroy some of your mountains to prevent the trigger from dealing them any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the actual question, in the situation where multiple lands are put onto the battlefield at once - 2 by harrow, and as many as are sacrificed in scapeshift - the situation is always resolved in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All the mountains finish entering the battlefield before any of the mountains have an opportunity to &quot;trigger&quot; valakut's ability&lt;/strong&gt;. When the mountain enters the battlefield as part of a spell, valakut &quot;remembers&quot; to trigger its ability the next time a player would get priority, after state based actions are checked. by this point, all of the other mountains (and all of the other triggers) are also on the battlefield and queued up ready to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when you put any number of mountains onto the battlefield at once through a spell or ability, as long as there are 5 other mountains on the battlefield when you are finished, all mountains put onto the battlefield that way will trigger valakut's ability and deal 3 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the specific examples,&#xA;Harrow will put 2 mountains onto the battlefield as it resolves, when the valakut triggers are checked each mountain's trigger acknowledges there are 5 other mountains and is put onto the stack (and targets for each are chosen). When they come to resolve, providing there are still 5 other mountains left on the battlefield, they will deal damage to the chosen targets totalling 6 damage in 2 triggers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scapeshift sacrificing 7 lands to find 1 Valakut and 6 mountains - in this situation all 6 mountains &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; Valakut enter at the same time, but the resolution is still the same, each mountain waits to trigger Valakut the next time a player would get priority, sees 5 other mountains on the battlefield at that point, and thus 6 triggers are put onto the stack. These 6 triggers then resolve, and providing there are still 5 other mountains, they all resolve and deal damage to their targets, totalling 18 damage in 6 triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T09:13:00.120" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T09:13:00.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11798" CreationDate="2013-04-22T14:32:35.187" Score="8" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played &lt;em&gt;Mansions of Madness&lt;/em&gt; for the first time this weekend and I was surprised that fire was so devastating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a status effect is placed in a room, like fire, does it ever end without an 'action'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T15:20:22.243" Title="Do Status Effects End In Mansions of Madness?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11796" CreationDate="2013-04-22T14:49:35.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; The keyword in the rules (found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) is &quot;ongoing.&quot; Status effects do not end until an action is taken to end them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T14:49:35.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11801" CreationDate="2013-04-22T17:28:50.157" Score="9" ViewCount="7203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Electromancer&quot;&gt;Goblin Electromancer&lt;/a&gt; reduce the cost of a fuse spell on both sides of the card? Would &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Turn // Burn&lt;/a&gt; be {1}{U}{R} to cast both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:30:50.017" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:31:19.490" Title="Does Goblin Electromancer reduce both sides of a fused split card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11804" CreationDate="2013-04-22T17:37:45.217" Score="7" ViewCount="3673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Author Terence Reese wrote that the difference between amateurs and professional was that the former could &quot;see&quot; (locate) only 26 cards, while professionals could &quot;see&quot; 52 before the hand was over. Another commentator on this site once remarked that this could occur by the sixth or seventh round (out of 13).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you're declarer. An opening lead comes from West, and dummy goes down. Now you can actually see 27 cards. More to the point, West probably led from a suit in which he and partner hold 8 or 9 cards, meaning that they are likely distributed 5-3 if eight cards, and 6-3 or 5-4 if nine cards. By the rule of sequences or the rule of 11, you can probably guess WHICH five cards west holds, especially after East plays. So you can now &quot;see&quot; 34-35 by the time the cards reach your hand. If West led his partner's (bid) suit, that factors into the equation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens next? That is, how do you bring your knowledge of 34-35 cards up to 52, and in (roughly) how many rounds. It might be fairly easy if one or both opponents bid. But what if they haven't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2019-07-28T20:51:19.127" Title="In bridge, how can you &quot;see&quot; (locate) most of 52 cards halfway into the play?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11799" CreationDate="2013-04-22T17:37:59.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Only one spell is cast, so only {1} is deducted for a total cost of {2}{U}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuse is an alternative cost, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/242#1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;evidenced&lt;/a&gt; by &amp;quot;you have the additional option to cast both halves as a single spell by paying their combined cost&amp;quot;. This refers to their &lt;em&gt;mana&lt;/em&gt; cost (as will be stated explicitly in the rules). The combined mana cost of Turn and Burn is {3}{U}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Electromancer&quot;&gt;Goblin Electromancer&lt;/a&gt; provides a cost reduction of {1}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost to cast a fused Turn and Burn&#xA;&lt;br&gt;= mana cost or alternative cost + additional cost and cost increases - cost reductions&#xA;&lt;br&gt;= {3}{U}{R} - {1}&#xA;&lt;br&gt;= {2}{U}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules have been released. It's not an alternative cost. Here's the relevant rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.101a Fuse is a static ability found on some split cards (see rule 708, &amp;quot;Split Cards&amp;quot; that applies while the card with fuse is in a player’s hand. If a player casts a split card with fuse from his or her hand, the player may choose to cast both halves of that split card. This choice is made before putting the split card with fuse onto the stack. The resulting spell is a fused split spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.101b A fused split spell has two sets of characteristics and one converted mana cost. The converted mana cost of the spell is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its two mana costs, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.101c The total cost of a fused split spell includes the mana cost of each half. (See rule 601.2e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.101d As a fused split spell resolves, the controller of the spell follows instructions of the left half and then follows the instructions of the right half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's very poorly worded, but it's clear there's only one spell being cast. I'm going to get confirmation of my answer anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/29887989/Goblin_Electromancer__Fuse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Confirmed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:31:19.490" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:31:19.490" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2013-04-22T19:56:41.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a huge subject, and I think the answer is divided equally between experience and analysis. But to answer your last sentence: failure to bid can be as illuminating as an actual bid. Suppose you are missing three aces, and one opponent has shown up with two of them; with all three he would have bid &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;, so you can place the last accurately. More generally, if your side have 25 points and you reckon on 8 or 9 for an overcall, it's safe to assume that a lack of bidding indicates that the high cards are split quite evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-04-22T19:56:41.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2013-04-22T22:12:28.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make a quick stab at this, first consider that there are distinct steps towards learning how to perform this visualization feat:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Train your memory to know (i.e. be able to recite exactly) where all 52 cards were at the end of the deal. The rest is irrelevant until you can do this (though it can be practiced simultaneously).   &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice (and practice and practice) visualization of the opponent's hands at every call and play. As each deal starts there will obviously be 13 blanks in each opponent's hand, but every bid, call and play should be adding constraints to each card. A 1-level overcall in spades by the opponent should immediately trigger a visualization like:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;     &lt;code&gt;KJ9xx xx Axx xxx&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;in your mind.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Practice &lt;strong&gt;using&lt;/strong&gt; the deductions you are making about the opponents' hands. This will help develop the habit of paying close attention, by providing yourself with an occasional carrot for good analysis.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remember to always pay particular attention when you have a weak hand. Most of the field at almost any event will be asleep with those poor cards, so the opportunity to make a big gain on the field is greater than usual. Tournaments can be won on these hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Richard Pavlicek has an excellent online site chock full of useful lessons for Beginners, Intermediate Players, and Experts. Here are two links to an expert example of good card reading and to an analysis of some important considerations when reading the opponents actions:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/7c04.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.rpbridge.net/7c04.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(2) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/7z75.htm&quot;&gt;http://www.rpbridge.net/7z75.htm&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T19:26:44.173" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T19:26:44.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9393" CreationDate="2013-04-23T00:17:10.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, the opening lead decision for a given contract and auction can vary depending on whether one is playing IMPs or matchpoints. Because it is the least informed action of the hand, one should take care in matchpoints to not give away the hand with the lead. Leading &quot;with the field&quot; is often advocated, on the premise that in most hands one gets another chance to at least obtain an average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively in IMPs more aggressive leads are less risky, and employed by experts more often. The loss of an overtrick is inconsequential if any measurable chance of setting the contract ensues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, visualization of the opponent hands is paramount in making good lead choices. Understanding whether the opponents have stretched to the current contract, or failed to investigate higher, can assist one in evaluating the appropriate level of risk for a given lead situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Richard Pavlicek has an excellent online site addressed to Beginners, Intermediate Players, and Experts. Here is a link to his Beginner lesson on Opening Leads:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/1u29.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.rpbridge.net/1u29.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-11-17T01:20:04.680" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T01:20:04.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11809" CreationDate="2013-04-23T06:00:54.153" Score="4" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;When runner has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/net-shield-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Net Shield&lt;/a&gt; installed, can they wait until they are about to receive net damage before they decide to trigger its ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is &quot;yes&quot; (or even &quot;no&quot;) could you please also explain how it falls into the timing structure of Android: Netrunner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastEditorUserId="2737" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T09:12:50.933" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T11:05:06.270" Title="Can Net Shield ability be triggered &quot;in response&quot;?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12080" CreationDate="2013-04-23T06:26:11.863" Score="10" ViewCount="9585" Body="&lt;p&gt;My kids are getting interested in Pokemon TCG, so I'm trying to figure out the different series and sets. I played Magic the Gathering for a little while, which has helped me understand some of the terminology (e.g., starter sets, theme decks, booster packs), but some things seem to be different. Specifically: what are the differences within/between Pokemon series?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, what are the differences between the Black &amp;amp; White Dragons Exalted set and the Black &amp;amp; White Emerging Powers set? And what are the differences between the Black &amp;amp; White series and the Heartgold &amp;amp; Soulsilver series?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the different sets/series have different cards in them, but is there anything else? In Magic the Gathering, the different expansion sets had extra mechanics not seen in the core set. Note that I'm more interested in the differences pertaining to gameplay than to collecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4968" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T09:07:42.437" Title="What are the differences within/between Pokemon series?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11807" CreationDate="2013-04-23T08:52:11.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Android Netrunner anything with &quot;prevent&quot; or &quot;avoid&quot; is triggered outside the normal timing rules as the thing it wants to prevent or avoid is about to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means whenever you are about to take net damage for the first time in a turn, you can pay 1C to activate net shield and prevent 1 of that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/ADN01_Rules_ENG_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) page 21:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevent or Avoid&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some card abilities use the words “prevent” or&#xA;  “avoid.” Prevent or avoid effects are the only effects which can&#xA;  disrupt another effect. A prevent or avoid effect states what it is&#xA;  preventing or avoiding, and an effect that is prevented or avoided is&#xA;  not resolved. Prevent or avoid effects can be triggered whenever the&#xA;  effect they are preventing or avoiding is resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2737" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T11:05:06.270" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T11:05:06.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11812" CreationDate="2013-04-23T13:12:39.103" Score="3" ViewCount="3136" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some lands and artifacts have abilities which allow them to be animated, and turned into creatures until end of turn. Examples include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorious%20Keyrune&quot;&gt;Azorious Keyrune&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Treetop%20Village&quot;&gt;Treetop Village&lt;/a&gt; and several others. These abilities can be activated at any time, and  then those permanents can be used to attack that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At what point during the turn should abilities that animate non-creatures be activated so that they can attack?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T19:03:54.707" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T19:15:13.790" Title="When should I activate Man Lands and Keyrunes in order to attack with them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11810" CreationDate="2013-04-23T13:12:39.103" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having discussed the below with several local judges, it has been made clear that the below would actually be a very totalitarian view for a judge to take, and as long as you state clearly your intentions you probably will still get to activate your man land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct time to activate man lands is any point during your turn before the declare attackers step, as has been mentioned in other answers. As an addendum, &lt;strong&gt;being extremely clear about where you are in the turn when you are activating them is key in tournament play. Better safe than sorry!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main parts of the turn relevant to this question are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;some of the sub steps are omitted, as they are not relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Phase&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of Combat step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are playing a game of magic, you are playing with/against &lt;strong&gt;another person&lt;/strong&gt;. This is the key to the answer to this question, as while you are entitled to animate these permanents at any point before the &lt;strong&gt;Declare Attackers step&lt;/strong&gt;, in a real game of magic, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;unless the active player explicitly passes priority in their main phase, to have priority in their beginning of combat step. the active player only has priority in their beginning of combat step if their opponent chooses to do something in that step&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this is due to a &lt;strong&gt;shortcut&lt;/strong&gt; listed in the rules, wherein the active player declares &quot;attacks?&quot; or &quot;move to attack&quot; or &quot;combat&quot; or some similar statement. This shortcut, in the literal sense, translates to &quot;Pass priority up until you have priority in the Beginning of Combat step&quot;. The result of this shortcut is, if you move into the combat phase, you are automatically giving your opponent priority just before you declare attackers. If your opponent passes priority, the game moves to the &lt;strong&gt;Declare Attackers step&lt;/strong&gt; and you have &lt;strong&gt;missed your opportunity to animate&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The latest safe opportunity to animate your man lands, or other permanents that become creatures through activating an ability, is in the &lt;em&gt;First Main Phase&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; if you leave it until after this point, you are in the hands of your opponent and the judge staff for whether you get to activate the man land. If you cant demonstrate a good reason (for example, to empty some mana from your opponent's mana pool), they will probably not let you activate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source for this shortcut:&#xA;Tournament Procedure Guide - section 4.2, Bullet point 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Statement such as &quot;I'm Ready for combat&quot;, or &quot;Declare attackers?&quot; offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the beginning of combat step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;also covered in these articles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20071109a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20071109a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20050204a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20050204a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-04-23T18:48:30.360" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T18:48:30.360" CommentCount="23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11810" CreationDate="2013-04-23T14:57:21.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should activate them at some point before the declare attackers step on a turn after they enter the battlefield (unless they have haste).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a breakdown of the declare attackers step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1. First, the active player declares attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.2. Second, any abilities that triggered on attackers being declared go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.3. Third, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, during the declare attackers step, it is too late to activate the abilities (508.3) in order to make them attackers (508.1). However, you are free to do so during your upkeep, first main phase, and beginning of Combat step and it will be eligible to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you cast a keyrune and turn it into a creature, it cannot attack. This is because permanents that are creatures are unable to attack or use activated abilities with the tap symbol in them unless they have been under their owners control continuously since their most recent turn began (302.6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could still be tapped for mana if it is not a creature but as soon as you turn it into a creature it can no longer be tapped to activate abilities the turn it comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to shortcuts, according to the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A statement such as &amp;quot;I'm ready for combat&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Declare attackers?&amp;quot; offers to keep passing priority&#xA;until an opponent has priority in the beginning of combat step. &lt;strong&gt;Opponents are assumed to be acting&#xA;then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the following exchanges between Aaron the Attacker and Dave the Defender, officiated by Jerry the Judge, have different outcomes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaron: Attacks? &lt;em&gt;long pause&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dave: &lt;em&gt;nods head&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaron: I activate my keyrune and swing with him for 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dave: Judge!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jerry: Sorry Aaron, because you passed priority with your &amp;quot;Attacks?&amp;quot; comment, your keyrune was activated too late to be an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaron: Attacks - I activate my keyrune. &lt;em&gt;long pause&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dave: &lt;em&gt;nods head&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aaron: I swing with him for 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dave: I take 2, I'm at 18 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jerry: I'm going to sip this margarita because I'm not needed here. &lt;em&gt;sips margarita&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T19:15:13.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11814" CreationDate="2013-04-23T16:09:35.617" Score="6" ViewCount="7730" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Restoration%20Angel&quot;&gt;Restoration Angel&lt;/a&gt; targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ravager%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Ravager of the Fells&lt;/a&gt;, What side would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ravager%20of%20the%20Fells&quot;&gt;Ravager of the Fells&lt;/a&gt; be on when he came back into the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:24:55.080" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:24:55.080" Title="What happens when you flicker a double-faced card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11813" CreationDate="2013-04-23T16:14:34.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its front face (the one with the sun symbol in the top-left corner), so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHuntmaster%20of%20the%20Fells%5d&quot;&gt;Huntmaster of the Fells&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a brand new object put onto the 'field, as if you had just resolved it after casting it. It has summoning sickness; it's untapped; it doesn't have any counters, enchantments or equipment; and it's front face is up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;711.5. A double-faced card enters the battlefield with its front face up unless a spell or ability puts it onto the battlefield “transformed,” in which case it enters the battlefield with its back face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-07-20T16:29:31.433" LastActivityDate="2017-07-20T16:29:31.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11816" CreationDate="2013-04-23T20:33:03.670" Score="7" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose that at a regular REL (Rules Enforcement Level) event, you have an experienced player, and an inexperienced player, and the in-experienced player has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bgideon%27s%5d%2b%5blawkeeper%5d&quot;&gt;gideon&amp;#39;s lawkeeper&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experienced player declares the beginning of the combat phase, and the game then proceeds to the Declare Attackers step.  The in-experienced player tries to tap down an experienced player's creature during the Declare Attackers step.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The experienced player explains to the inexperienced player that in order for the tapping to stop the attack, he has to do it during the Beginning of Combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the players authorized to agree to rewind the game back to the Beginning of Combat step so that the in-experienced player can do his action correctly, or would the players have to ask a Judge's permission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:29:00.330" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:29:00.330" Title="At regular REL can players rewind the game state?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regular-rel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11815" CreationDate="2013-04-23T23:29:22.827" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the CompRules about taking back legal actions, so when in doubt, ask the judge, unless you both want to risk a sanction in the worst case. He may nor may not allow it, and he may or may not require to be asked in the first place. In the end, a judge can give whatever ruling he wants, and the opposite of it on the next case. So there is no general answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, in high REL, where a lot is on the line in the tournament, you probably won't see many of the situations as described by you, either because there are no inexperienced players, or nobody would agree to have a mistake taken back to get any advantage possible. In lower REL, like pre-Release or somesuch, if I were a judge I would definitely allow it to commend the sportsmanship and teaching effort of the more experienced player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-04-23T23:29:22.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11815" CreationDate="2013-04-24T03:27:36.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The infractions are the same for all REL. The difference lies in the penalties and remedies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming it's clear the Declare Attackers step was step was entered (e.g. AP: &quot;Declare Attackers?&quot; NAP: &quot;ok&quot;), nothing in the rules allow the game to return to the Beginning of Combat step, so we're talking about Unsporting Conduct — Cheating (intentional breaking of the rules for gain) or Game Play Error — Game Rule Violation (unintentional breaking of the rules). That's not really something you want to mess with. Just ask a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there's a good chance Declare Attackers wasn't actually entered, but a shortcut was merely proposed by the AP by the action of declaring his attackers. If so, the NAP could still completely legitimately use his ability in the Beginning of Combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T03:27:36.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11819" CreationDate="2013-04-24T10:26:55.527" Score="1" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The board game Guards! Guards! has a system of recruiting volunteers which have various effects on the players who recruit them. These effects range from permanent bonuses to stats (e.g. +1 charm to help recruit volunteers, or +1 magic) to bonus dollars, or immunity from the pox, or a number of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;at the beginning of the game, each player starts with 3 volunteers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do your starting volunteers give you the bonuses printed on the card?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not seem to clarify anything about this, so I was wondering if anyone here had a convention or house rule, or if a clarification had been released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T13:21:51.313" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T13:21:51.313" Title="Guards! Guards! starting volunteer's effects" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11818" CreationDate="2013-04-24T12:08:36.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/boardgames/files/guards_guards/rules-guards-guards-lr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; posted on the Z-Man Games website (Page 3):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each player begins the games with the following items:&lt;/strong&gt; ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  • 5 - Ankh-Morpork Dollars&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  • 1 - Lords &amp;amp; Ladies Volunteer Card&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  • 1- Man &amp;amp; Beast Volunteer Card&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Players should collect any items/scrolls or attribute&#xA;  bonuses marked on the above cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a slightly older version of the rules released with the original version of the game. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.guardsguards.com/downloads/GG-Second-Edition-Final-Rules-low170612.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2012 revision&lt;/a&gt;, it does not explicitly state that you get the attributes. Looking at the rulebook differences, my guess is the publisher wanted to optimize space in the 2012 rulebook and they figured people would just assume they gain the attribute increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the original version of the rules, &lt;strong&gt;you do get the attribute bonuses for any volunteers you start the game with.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T12:08:36.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T17:57:14.573" Score="15" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Background&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking to play a variant of Diplomacy over email or other messaging system. The specifics of Diplomacy and of the variant are not important, suffice it to say that the root trouble is simultaneous moves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider scissors-paper-stone as an example: how would you play that over, say, email? &#xA;One possibility is a neutral person. Both players email their throw to the arbiter. He holds the first email until he has received the second, then he forwards each email on to the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This neutral person could be replaced by a computer, as this function is pretty brain-dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware there are services for online Diplomacy (and scissors-paper-stone for that matter), but they are specific to that game. The variant I am looking to play is not supported. I am also aware that this could be done using cryptographic hashing, but there are practical issues with that (like player education). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a simple service that just collects messages from a given list of recipients, and then forwards all messages, unaltered, once it has received a message from everyone on the list? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be over any internet messaging system that would not require too much player education. (EDIT: I meant to include things like web interfaces also, as long as they're easy to use.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the sort of thing someone would have already come up with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5210" LastEditorUserId="5210" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T19:18:11.997" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T12:58:39.830" Title="Abstract &quot;move holding&quot; service for simultaneous-move board games" Tags="|online|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T20:50:24.177" Score="6" ViewCount="2577" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primordial%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Primordial Hydra&lt;/a&gt; with 10 +1/+1 counters on it, giving it trample.  I block it with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vampire%20Nighthawk&quot;&gt;Vampire Nighthawk&lt;/a&gt;, causing it to die. My friend then uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt; to take the counters off &amp;quot;in response to it taking lethal damage&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Can he do this?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;B: Would my creature die and I take the remaining damage if he does it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5211" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-04-25T08:41:51.613" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T08:41:51.613" Title="Can someone Bioshift counters off a creature after combat damage has been assigned?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11822" CreationDate="2013-04-24T20:56:53.213" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No he can not do this.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage does not use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1. First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how&#xA;  each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based&#xA;  action doesn't use the stack. A player assigns a creature's combat&#xA;  damage according to the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. No&#xA;  player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the&#xA;  time combat damage is assigned and the time it's dealt. This is a&#xA;  change from previous rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then once the damage is assigned and SBA are checked, IE it goes to the grave yard, then players have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, &quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at the time he wants to move the counters the creature would be dead and gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: In response to B:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the nighthawk only has a toughness of 3, in step 510.1 your friend would assign 3 damage to the nighthawk and 7 damage to you if the hydra was 10/10 with trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to trample you only ever have to assign lethal damage to the blocker before you assign damage to the player the blocker is blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T22:41:44.187" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T22:41:44.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11822" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:15:51.427" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Question A&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, one can only do something &lt;em&gt;in response to&lt;/em&gt; a spell or ability being added to the stack, so one can't cast Bioshift &lt;em&gt;in response to&lt;/em&gt; damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's look at the real question. Is there a time when Bioshift could be cast such that the Hydra will deal full damage without dying? No. Here's how the turn goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers step.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blockers are declared.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage assignment order of each attacking creature is announced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage assignment order of each blocking creature is announced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stated-based actions are performed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abilities that previously triggered (if any) are placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage step.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage assignment of each attacking creature is announced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Damage assignment of each blocking creature is announced.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combat damage is dealt.&lt;/strong&gt; (Simulatenously)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stated-based actions are performed.&lt;/strong&gt; (Destroying the Hydra)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abilities that previously triggered (if any) are placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bioshift would need to be cast between 3.2/3.3 and 3.4, but players do not get priority then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has not always been the case. From 6th Edition (1999) up until Magic 2010 (2009), Combat damage was placed on the stack, and one could respond to it. Item 5 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; explains the reason for the change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question B&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has to assign at least 3 damage to the Vampire Nighthawk (since it has three toughness and hasn't yet taken any damage) and up to 10. The difference (presumably 7) would be assigned to you, the attacked player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T23:27:31.883" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T23:27:31.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11821" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:49:16.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No arbiter is needed if you use encryption. Player A sends encrypted move Am1 to player B. Player B sends encrypted move Bm1 to player A. Once A receives Bm1, she sends the decryption key Ak1 to B, and B sends his decryption key Bk1 to A. This can be done over any messaging service, but does require a bit of overhead. (And you have to trust that the other player sends you valid move data, but you can set up the rules that if the initial message doesn't contain a valid move than the sender loses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simple encryption tools can be found online. For example,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alltextencryption.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alltextencryption.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="369" LastEditorUserId="369" LastEditDate="2013-04-24T21:54:33.527" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:54:33.527" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-24T21:56:11.180" Score="4" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Little Wars, captured men can be rescued by killing one or more of their captors. What is the procedure for recapturing the men who were just rescued?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, 14 men of team A attack 12 isolated men of team B. This results in 4 men of team A with 2 prisoners from team B. Now, suppose team B kills 1 of the captors from team A with cannon fire. How (if at all) could team A recapture those 2 men from team B? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They couldn't melee because the men from team B are disarmed. Would team A just have to move their men within six inches of the ex-prisoners to automatically recapture them? Would the procedure be different if there were armed men from team B nearby?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3440" LastActivityDate="2013-04-24T21:56:11.180" Title="What is the procedure for recapturing rescued men?" Tags="|little-wars|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11822" CreationDate="2013-04-25T08:08:24.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little bit of a tangent, but I thought it might be worth adding an answer about what the controller of Primordial Hydra &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; do if he wants to bioshift his counters onto another creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;He can't do it in response to damage&lt;/strong&gt;, as has been expertly explained in other answers, so I wont repeat it here, &lt;strong&gt;this answer is mostly about improved strategy&lt;/strong&gt;. He can kill your nighthawk and save at least most of his counters, he just wont be able to trample over the damage from them this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he casts bioshift after you have declared blockers, but before damage is dealt, he can transfer all but 3 counters from his hydra onto another creature he controls. This lets him kill the vampire nighthawk but keep most of his counters on another creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature that gets the counters is also attacking, then he still gets all the damage, in the instance that it isn't, then at least he keeps most of his counters for later attacks(and a creature with 7 +1/+1 counters on it in addition to anything else it does is pretty sweet to have!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T08:08:24.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7920" CreationDate="2013-04-25T16:02:53.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I just wanted to add to this question to say that I have an older version of Axis and Allies purchased back in the 80s.  In my version, it is NOT clear on whether you can place new units in the same space as a newly &lt;em&gt;purchased&lt;/em&gt; factory.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, here is the exact quote from my version of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'IMPORTANT: you cannot place newly purchased items on industrial complexes that you just captured.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another quote from Action Sequence 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;' You cannot place units in a just-captured territory that has an industrial complex on it - you must wait until your next turn to place units there.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that it DOES NOT mention anything about newly PURCHASED factories, just capturing existing ones.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played for years with this rule and it has made for some very interesting games in the first few turns, when everyone is buying up the 3 or 4 extra factories to start a new offensive somewhere strange on the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They must have changed this in later versions of the game.  I had no idea until I visited this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5213" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T16:02:53.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-04-25T16:33:18.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make the first eliminated player be &quot;the banker.&quot; When more than one player is eliminated, they should start another game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the banker in Monopoly, they'll hand out all cards/tokens, make change, and manipulate pieces that aren't controlled by a player directly. It's not &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; fun, but it keeps them participating, and they can heckle all-the-while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can have them join another team as an adviser. This can be awkward for games with hidden information (I don't want a poker adviser), but with the right social dynamic, it can be pretty fun to be someone's Grand Vizier or Minister of Agriculture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T16:33:18.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-04-25T18:41:07.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In college, I played Diplomacy as a member of a &quot;club,&quot; so we had &quot;social&quot; constraints for everyone to end the game together so we could go on to the next thing as a group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep the game at six hours, rather than &quot;all night,&quot; we had a house rule for a &quot;minority-majority&quot; victory. That is, any three people (a minority out of seven) could declare a team victory with a total of 18 supply centers (a majority). To keep people in the game, we had a further rule that if someone was down to their last supply center, you couldn't take it away from him, except on a fall turn, and as part of a projected 18 center majority. If you couldn't assemble the  majority, the supply center had to be returned to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules meant 1) a shorter game 2) everyone had a &quot;chance,&quot; to win by joining a winning team but 3) more supply centers meant a better chance to be on a winning team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-04-25T18:41:07.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11832" CreationDate="2013-04-25T22:46:51.027" Score="24" ViewCount="2638" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisition%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;, and my only target is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loxodon%20Smiter&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt;, do I have to make my opponent discard the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loxodon%20Smiter&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt;, or can I &amp;quot;fail to find&amp;quot; just as I would if i were searching my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T01:25:32.230" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:28:35.147" Title="Can you fail to find a card in someone's hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11831" CreationDate="2013-04-25T23:12:53.033" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; &quot;fail to find&quot; a card, but only while explicitly &lt;em&gt;searching&lt;/em&gt; someone's library or hand. In the case of Inquisition of Kozilek, you are not &quot;searching&quot; the zone, so you must choose a card if a valid choice is available.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the comp rules, &quot;fail to find&quot; is specific to &lt;em&gt;searching&lt;/em&gt; a hidden zone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.18b If a player is searching a hidden zone for cards with a stated quality, such as a card with a certain card type or color, that player isn’t required to find some or all of those cards even if they’re present in that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the hand is still considered a hidden zone even when it is revealed (CR 400.2: &quot;Library and hand are hidden zones, even if all the cards in one such zone happen to be revealed&quot;), Inquisition of Kozilek's instructions say to &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; a card from it, not &lt;em&gt;search&lt;/em&gt; for one. Thus, you must follow the normal rules: which is to carry out as much of the actions as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you may still be wondering: &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; doesn't this rule come with a &quot;fail to find&quot; clause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest explanation is that it's part of the underlying logic of the Magic comp rules &amp;mdash; to minimize actions that players can't &quot;double-check&quot; using public information. (Consider the difference between &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVampiric%20Tutor%5d&quot;&gt;Vampiric Tutor&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMystical%20Tutor%5d&quot;&gt;Mystical Tutor&lt;/a&gt;, for instance. What purpose does the extra &quot;reveal&quot; clause serve?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding &quot;fail to find&quot; to the rules for searching guarantees that your search will result in a valid game state without forcing you to prove there are no valid choices by &lt;em&gt;revealing your entire library&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek doesn't need a &quot;fail to find&quot; rule because it says &quot;reveal&quot; &amp;mdash; all players get to see the targeted players' hand and verify whether there are any suitable cards in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a discard spell said &quot;Look at target layer's hand&quot; instead of &quot;Reveal,&quot; the rules manager would probably insist they include a &quot;may&quot; clause, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVendilion%20Clique%5d&quot;&gt;Vendilion Clique&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T19:28:35.147" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:28:35.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11834" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-04-26T10:54:14.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Star_Trek_Customizable_Card_Game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star Trek: Customizable Card Game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; was originally published in 1994 by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decipher,_Inc.&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decipher, Inc&lt;/a&gt; based on &lt;em&gt;Star Trek: The Next Generation&lt;/em&gt;. Up until 2006 many extensions where published including extending the game to almost the entire Star Trek franchise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2002 a Second Edition (&lt;em&gt;2E&lt;/em&gt;) with simplified rules was published and which was partially compatible with the original game (now called &lt;em&gt;First Edition&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;1E&lt;/em&gt;) as some cards from the Second Edition could be used in First Edition games, but not vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last official 2E expansions where published in 2007. After that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trekcc.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Continuing Committee&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, an independent group of players, continues supporting the game by publishing unofficial &quot;virtual&quot; (online) extensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="512" LastEditorUserId="512" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T19:49:02.463" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T19:49:02.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11835" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-04-26T10:54:14.153" Score="0" Body="Collectible card game based on the Star Trek franchise originally published in 1994 by Decipher, Inc. A second (only partially compatible) edition was published in 2002. " OwnerUserId="512" LastEditorUserId="512" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T11:39:45.527" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T11:39:45.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-26T19:23:11.860" Score="6" ViewCount="11691" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast a sorcery spell to force the opponent to discard two cards, and he/she then casts one of those cards as an instant, would the instant apply first or would the sorcery take precedence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5215" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T21:38:23.477" Title="Sorcery supercedes instant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11836" CreationDate="2013-04-26T19:34:00.827" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer: As long as they chose to cast the instant before you chose the cards to discard, then the Instant applies (resolves) first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic the gathering uses a stack for casting spells. This means that literally all spells being cast go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time a player casts a spell they get priority back after the spell is cast so they can continue to put spells on the stack. If they choose to be done casting spells at that moment then they pass priority to their opponents who can add spells to the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everyone is done adding spells to the stack, it starts to resolve from the top down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the last spell cast is the first spell to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the instant would apply first because it went on the stack last and was cast in response to the sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this there is almost never a time where you can cast a spell that your opponent can not react to, if they have the mana and cards to react with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;405.1. When a spell is cast, the physical card is put on the stack (see rule 601.2a). When an ability is activated or triggers, it goes&#xA;  on top of the stack without any card associated with it (see rules&#xA;  602.2a and 603.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will&#xA;  eventually resolve and have its effect. Casting a spell follows the&#xA;  steps listed below, in order. If, at any point during the casting of a&#xA;  spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed&#xA;  below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the&#xA;  moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, &quot;Handling&#xA;  Illegal Actions&quot;). Announcements and payments can't be altered after&#xA;  they've been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a-g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put&#xA;  onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell's controller had&#xA;  priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.1. Each time all players pass in succession, the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves. (See rule 609, &quot;Effects.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personal Note: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic is very deceptive because on the surface it seems to be an aggressive game but in truth is an extremely reactive game. Mastering timing and priority can take a long time and is one of the key points of strategy for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be a bit confusing when first starting out but I suggest reading the comprehensive rules section &lt;code&gt;116 - Timing and Priority&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-04-26T20:04:15.090" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T20:04:15.090" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11836" CreationDate="2013-04-26T19:53:58.780" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;In simplest terms possible:  Your opponent can cast any instants in response to your sorcery, but he'll still have to discard 2 cards if he has any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so, if you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=mind%20rot&quot;&gt;mind rot&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; choose 2 instants to discard and cast them instead.  He can cast instants before he chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=duress&quot;&gt;duress&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; cast the instant that you pick for him to discard.  He can cast instants before he shows you his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how It works&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You cast the sorcery.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority to your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your opponent may cast instant speed spells&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority to your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Opponent passes priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The instant spell resolves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority to your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The sorcery spell resolves from start to finish&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything that the sorcery spell does happens while it's resolving.  If you look at your opponents hand and choose the cards, than that would happen while it resolves.  If your opponent chooses, he chooses while it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the spell has begun to resolve, You cannot cast any spells until the spell has finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T21:38:23.477" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T21:38:23.477" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11190" CreationDate="2013-04-26T21:55:35.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine got some Mexico pesos.  They seem to work fairly good, and are fairly heavy.  Different sizes as well.  How you get them if you don't have a friend traveling there, I'm not sure.  But I wouldn't be surprised if they aren't a cheap option for metal money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://coins.about.com/od/worldcoins/ig/World-Coins-Gallery-Index/Mexico-Money---Coins.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://coins.about.com/od/worldcoins/ig/World-Coins-Gallery-Index/Mexico-Money---Coins.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3198" LastActivityDate="2013-04-26T21:55:35.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-27T00:05:31.853" Score="3" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the middle of my first game of Ora et Labora now. It comes with quick reference sheets with both Ireland and France references on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems, given my limited understanding of the game so far, that the reference sheets could be cut in half (so each piece contains only France or Ireland). Is this a good idea, or is there some reason to keep it all together?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T01:35:30.507" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T23:21:54.560" Title="Should I cut the Ora et Labora reference sheets in half?" Tags="|ora-et-labora|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11863" CreationDate="2013-04-27T01:13:40.780" Score="-1" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was recommended by author Terence Reese (and several members of the site).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I was taught differently, at least as declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, I was taught to count &quot;trumps and honors.&quot; So, if you are declarer in a trump contract, with, say, 26 high card points and an eight card trump fit, you will be most concerned about the five outstanding trumps, and the outstanding five or so, of the 16 face cards in your opponent's hands. Assuming no overlaps, your primary concern would be over TEN opposing cards, not 26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a critical side suit in the play, you might worry about five or so additional cards in that suit as well. Then I have worry about 15 of my opponents' cards, but not all 26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, suppose you have a singleton, x in the dummy of your opponents' best suit, and xxx in your own hand. They start off with AK of the suit, and you ruff the second round. You've seen four of your opponents cards, and you don't have to worry about the remaining five cards in the suit (assuming that both follow when you ruff your last x). Then you only have to worry about the remaining 19 opposing cards. And of these, the most important ones are the outstanding trumps, and the two honors or so, outside their main suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right, at least regarding a trump contract (no trump is a different animal)? Or is there something that I am missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:16:58.197" Title="In bridge, does a declarer &quot;need to&quot; locate all 52 cards during the play of a trump contract?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11199" CreationDate="2013-04-27T02:47:43.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a famous anecdote of Hans Kreijns (playing with Bob Slavenburg) overcalling Benito Garozzo's 4 Spades pre-empt with a 4 Spades overcall, on 4 to two top Honours, sometime in the 1960's. &lt;strong&gt;That's an overbid.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously, when I learned to play bridge in the early 1970's, overbidding was everywhere. Precision had just become famous, and everyone was opening ratty 10 and 11 counts because C.C.Wei's Precision team did it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since then overbidding has declined in the bridge company I keep, and so has underbidding. Of course, it is not the same company: the quality has increased substantially, and the bidding has generally become more accurate. Less overbidding, and less underbidding, because the bidding is simply better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T02:47:43.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-27T08:36:57.547" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, what is the priority in leading when partner bid spades, and contract is clubs, and I have ace and queen of spades. Does the rule &quot;do not underlead an ace&quot; here override the rule &quot;lead with the suit that your partner has bid&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="5185" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T08:52:07.543" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T23:36:02.147" Title="Question on leading" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11843" CreationDate="2013-04-27T13:12:28.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a few different scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Partner overcalled 1S and contract is 3NT&lt;/strong&gt;: Lead the spade A followed by the spade Q to unblock the suit. Presumably partner has 6 to the JT, and declarer just might be &lt;em&gt;adventuring&lt;/em&gt; on a singleton K.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Partner opened 1S and the contract is 3NT:&lt;/strong&gt; Same reasoning, same lead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You opened and partner made a 1-over-1 bid of 1S, contract is 3NT:&lt;/strong&gt; Find another suit to lead, and hope partner can get in to lead through declarer's spade K. Partner's spade bid was length-showing, showing 4, and nothing more. You have the bulk of the partnership assets, and the best chance of establishing (and cashing) length tricks to set the contract with. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Partnered opened a weak 2 Spades and the contract is 3NT:&lt;/strong&gt; Treat this like case (1).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The contract is in a suit (below slam)and the opponents bid it to make:&lt;/strong&gt; Lead something else unless you really trust partner to be holding the spade K. Partner bid, so has a realistic chance to get in and lead spades. Lead a card that invites partner to switch rather than one that asks partner to continue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The contract is in a suit (below slam) and the opponents bid it as a sacrifice:&lt;/strong&gt; Probably best to lead the spade A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The contract is a suit slam:&lt;/strong&gt; Usually best to lead spade A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are general guidelines, and not &quot;rules&quot;. There are other factors that will affect your choice of lead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider the bidding as well. Did the opponents reach 3NT tentatively or aggressively? In the former case an aggressive lead of the spade A is more appealing than in the latter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you playing Matchpoints, IMPS or Rubber? Conceding an overtrick in Matchpoints is as costly as forgetting to set opponents game in IMPS or Rubber, so be wary of leading spades against confident opponents. In IMPS or Rubber lead the spade A because a lost overtrick means nothing compared to a best chance of a set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your partner one who likes to psyche frequently? If so, find another suit to lead than spades; You know it is likely that partner psyched, but the opponents don't now that yet. This is fair dinkum because the bidding and visible cards drew you to this conclusion, not any tells on his part.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is your partner one of those who insists that his suit be lead?  If yes, and this partner is one you wish to continue playing with, lead the spade A (unless something else is overwhelmingly better). One bad result is nothing compared to playing with a partner you enjoy and respect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will notice that the latter guidelines for the most part contradict the former scenario suggestions; this is deliberate. Leading well is part science, part art, and part black magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T13:19:47.433" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T13:19:47.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11841" CreationDate="2013-04-27T13:25:41.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Declarer never &lt;strong&gt;needs&lt;/strong&gt; to count all 52 cards, just like declarer never &lt;strong&gt;needs&lt;/strong&gt; to make the contract. To be consistently successful declarer simply needs to be counting more cards than defenders are counting. Of course if the defenders are counting at least 26 each, declarer should be counting a full 52. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two fundamental reasons why one must aspire to count all 52 cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get &lt;em&gt;expanding returns&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;diminishing returns&lt;/em&gt;, as every card you count increases the ability to locate and count the next card. The reason for this is that each located card reduces the number of cards remaining to be counted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the advanced play techniques (single-, double-, and repeating-squeezes; throw-ins, etc.) require an exact, or nearly exact, count. One cannot aspire to perform any of these reliably without an exact count; neither can one effectively defend against them without an exact or nearly exact count. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gain in play by having a solid familiarity of advanced techniques, can approach a trick over the play of a good intermediate player who has not studied these techniques. That is like being dealt 2 or 3 extra points every hand. If your partner has likewise studied these, (s)he also gets these &lt;em&gt;extra&lt;/em&gt; points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine how many more successful contracts you will bid, and how many more opposing contracts you will set, if you and your partner are each dealt an extra queen each hand. That is the advantage one obtains by first learning to get an exact count early in the hand, and then studying the advanced techniques that allow you to take full advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This analysis may also bear o your question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11199/in-bridge-do-people-go-through-cycles-of-under-and-over-bidding&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; concerning cycles of over- and under-bidding. If one considers the very aggressive bidding of the &lt;em&gt;Meckwell&lt;/em&gt; partnership (Eric Rodwell &amp;amp; Jeff Meckstroth), it is their excellent declarer and defender play, combined with superb table feel and intuitive hand evaluation, that allows them to be successful playing this way. Barry Crane played a similarly aggressive style in his day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weaker players tend to emulate the best known successful players of the day, without having the skill set to support the style. Goren addressed this by developing a more conservative system for weaker players, which was popular for many years. However don't be misled to think that Goren played passively in tournaments; Goren played his own system very aggressively, because of possessing the intuition and skill to do so successfully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes, there are in many hands low spot cards that one does not need to remember exactly; thinking of an x is sufficient. However, the bridge literature is chock full of examples where the careless play of a deuce or trey instead of 5 or 6 has blocked a key suit. One never knows for sure &lt;strong&gt;which&lt;/strong&gt; low spots are irrelevant until the full hand is counted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember well an argument between two mentors, during my formative bridge years, as to where two small diamond spots had been, on a hand played 4 years earlier. Yes, that was the key hand in an important hand in a lost final; but one cannot even attempt to remember that far back if one doesn't remember at the conclusion of the hand. (Corollary: they both agreed on the location of the other 50 cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remember this:&lt;/strong&gt; As declarer, the opponents are using those spot values to communicate with each other; as defender, your partner is using those spot values to communicate with you, and you are using those spots to communicate with partner. Nothing is more frustrating than to lead a small spot to partner asking for the suit to be returned, and having partner return another suit instead allowing a FAMOUS declarer to make an unmakeable contract (Sorry Dan! Too good an anecdote to leave out; I'll buy you a beer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T17:00:30.347" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2013-04-27T14:49:31.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about this problem. On top of that I've also noticed that  the wonders barely get used in our games.  &lt;br&gt;&#xA;So we thought it might work to restrict level 3+ tech until after the 4 ancient wonders are placed, then restrict level 5 until all medieval wonders are placed. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Haven't tested this yet but I think it might work to balance the huge benefits of learning tech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5219" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T14:49:31.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3675" CreationDate="2013-04-27T17:26:02.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Acol and standard Goren are two well-known systems that use 4 card majors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A main reason for the popularity of five card majors at the present time is the popularity of IMP contests. Five card majors is superior for slam bidding, which is emphasized in IMPS, while four cad majors is superior at matchpoints. However the team games are the most prestigious events, so almost everyone &lt;em&gt;practices&lt;/em&gt; their team system at matchpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barry Crane was a strong advocate of 4 card majors, and used it very successfully in both team and pairs events for 30 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have occasionally encountered hybrid systems that play 1H promising 5, but 1S only promising 4. Not recommended for casual partnerships, but retains the pre-emptive value of a 1S opening. Some partnerships play this &lt;em&gt;unofficially&lt;/em&gt; in 3rd seat, hoping to not get into too much trouble because the hand is less likely to be a slam possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. By &lt;em&gt;unofficialy&lt;/em&gt; above I don't mean &lt;code&gt;undisclosed&lt;/code&gt;; I mean &lt;code&gt;not completely discussed&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-04-27T17:33:03.763" LastActivityDate="2013-04-27T17:33:03.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11843" CreationDate="2013-04-27T23:46:57.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lead the ace of spades. Partner probably has the king for his overcall. After you take the ace, lead the queen to his (presumed) K. If he has, and can take it (no ruff), you will have two tricks in the bag, meaning that declarer will have to take all remaining 11 tricks for game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully, partner will have an additional trick to take that will beat the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T23:36:02.147" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T23:36:02.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-28T14:04:38.593" Score="1" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duplicate bridge was created to &quot;eliminate&quot; the luck factor. That is partnerships are compared only against other partnerships playing the same cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rubber bridge is a different animal. Here, &quot;luck of the draw&quot; is clearly a major factor in the result, at least until you get to a &quot;law of large numbers&quot; point where the luck factors cancel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose there are two partnerships, A and B, playing ONE rubber. From their play at duplicate, we &quot;know&quot; that partnership A plays one trick better than the other. Clearly partnership A would have better than a 50-50 chance at rubber as well. But how much better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any computer software, statistical formula, or mathematical algorithm that could estimate the relative chances of partnerships A and B winning the rubber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T14:11:04.517" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T19:07:18.380" Title="Is there a way to quantify the effects of luck versus skill in rubber bridge?" Tags="|bridge|statistics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11849" CreationDate="2013-04-28T15:19:09.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Eric Murray famously said in the case of &lt;em&gt;Crown vs St. Clair Bridge Club:&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The game [rubber bridge] is only one of luck when played as the&#xA;  justices of the Ontario Superior Court play it in closed chambers.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is of course the same Eric Murray of the Canadian partnership Murray &amp;amp; Kehela that was widely ranked the third best in the world during the 1960's and early 1970's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ironically, the luck element reduces as the overall quality of the players improves, yet increases in importance because the qualitative differences between the various players is reduced even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is difficult to address because of the above point. However, consider this advice to the budding &quot;play for money&quot; bridge player: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose Chicago against players who are a little bit weaker than you;&#xA;  but choose Rubber against players a lot weaker than you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is that when your skill advantage is small, you want lots of points in play, so that the luck evens out faster. When your skill advantage is larger, you want more opportunity for the opponent to make foolish decisions. A typical rubber-bridge strategy is to sit on a part-score and collect penalties for several hands before converting the game. Then repeat. even if the opponents get &quot;lucky&quot; and win the rubber, they will often have lost much more in penalties than the rubber bonus was worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T15:29:01.050" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T15:29:01.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4562" CreationDate="2013-04-28T15:41:33.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part rubber bridge plays the same as IMPS, so let us instead distinguish between matchpoints on one side, and IMPS/Rubber on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important distinction is the basis for measuring risk and reward. As a general rule (see below for when this does not apply):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In matchpoints, any play that stands to gain more often than not is advantageous. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In IMPS/rubber, one must weight the risk and reward according to the stakes of each, and decide on the expected value of the point gain/loss.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, it is foolishness of the highest order in IMPS/rubber to risk a contract for a 60% chance of an overtrick; in matchpoints NOT doing so is foolishness of the highest order. Likewise, safety plays are made use of much more often in IMPS/rubber than in matchpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exceptions to this rule are when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In matchpoints if from other information obtained, the contract is already believed to be a good one. For example: if an advanced play is required to make the contract; or an unusually favourable lead was obtained; or the contract is fortuitously played reversed due to one's bidding system; when in a hard-to-bid slam; etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T15:41:33.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4531" CreationDate="2013-04-28T15:51:23.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best defense against being squeezed by declarer is for your partnership, you AND your partner, to be as knowledgeable in advanced card-play techniques (not just squeezes proper) as possible; &lt;strong&gt;and to have a complete count of the hand before declarer does&lt;/strong&gt;.. Only by understanding which technique declarer is attempting, and the requirements declarer needs for it to work, can you and your partner defend against it. But if declarer has already made the key decision before you knew it existed, you are too late to the party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will winning the trick now help declarer's plan, or hinder it? That depends entirely on what declarer's plan is. Does declarer have a choice between two conflicting double squeezes? Try to con him into making the wrong choice. Do you prevent rectifying the count by holding up, or hand declarer his overtrick? Only by being aware of declarer's choices, and having a complete count of the hand, can one defend strongly agsint these techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T15:51:23.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11821" CreationDate="2013-04-28T16:07:12.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is fine for your to wait up to a specific time, sending delayed mails via a service like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.timecave.com/timecave/new.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;timecave&lt;/a&gt; might be an option (although suboptimal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T16:07:12.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11856" CreationDate="2013-04-28T18:33:16.363" Score="3" ViewCount="2082" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was weaned on &quot;Goren&quot; in the 1960s, and as some readers of my other questions have pointed out, am not totally comfortable with &quot;Standard American&quot; or other newer standards. These may be some examples why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) A &quot;strong&quot; (Goren) 1NT was 16-18 points, now it's 15-17.&#xA;2) &quot;Five card majors&quot; now means &quot;any five cards.&quot; Goren preferred suits led by at least one honor.&#xA;3) Goren had stringent high card point requirements for raises of major suits. Nowadays, people like Larry Cohen and Marty Bergen advocate raising with &quot;trumps rather than points.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What led to the above &quot;weakening&quot; of Goren's standards? Has declarer play improved more than defender play? Has there been a change of ethos from &quot;don't go down if you can avoid it&quot; to &quot;don't go down more than your opponents' likely score?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And speaking of which, is this why penalties were stiffened for doubled, non vulnerable from 100, 300, 500, 700... to 100, 300, 500, 800...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T20:20:15.563" Title="In bridge, what caused bidding &quot;standards&quot; to decline post Goren?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2013-04-28T19:37:51.677" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;A complete history of scoring changes, coupled with the whys of those changes would be a complicated story. But those doubled contract penalty changes came about for a simple reason. A few pairs realized that preemptive bidding against slams was simply too much of a potential gain against slams, so the scoring change was implemented to prevent this. Compare how many tricks you can go down against a vulnerable small slam, and still gain under the two scoring systems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Old: 100 300 500 700 900 1100 1300 1500&#xA;New: 100 300 500 800 1100 1400 1700&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if they are vulnerable, a small slam will cost you 1370, 1430, or 1440 points. If you are not vulnerable, you could go down 7 tricks (doubled) and STILL gain under that scoring. Under the new scoring ladder, even a 6 trick deficit will be too much against a minor suit slam, and a 7 trick deficit will always cost you against all slams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of the question is to identify the cause of declining standards. A big reason is seeing how important it is to open 1NT. When you CAN open a strong 1NT, you gain considerably in the bidding. It allows you to become declarer in most contracts, assuming that you use transfers. I recall reading that this is a potential gain of roughly 1/2 of a trick on average, because they must lead into your hand at trick one. As well, hiding the strong hand is a valuable thing. If your opponents know what cards you have, they can defend vastly more effectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So making the strong hand the declarer is a valuable thing. But how often does this happen? How often will you open 1NT with a 16-18 point hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the probability of picking up a 16-18 point hand (ignoring shape) are 7.28%, versus 10.09% for a 15-17 point hand. (I could run a complete simulation to get the odds for balanced hands in those ranges, but things won't change too much.) The point is though, compared to a 6-18 point 1NT, you will be able to open a 15-17 point 1NT almost 40% more often! This difference is a HUGE gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'd argue that the shift in strong NT ranges is not a declining of standards, but a realization that the slightly weaker range is much more valuable overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other changes in preempt quality are due to the realization of how valuable a preempt can be. Your opponents today will often use highly accurate bidding systems. Compared to the &quot;old&quot; days, when the opponents more frequently got to the wrong contracts, it is simply too dangerous to allow a quality pair to bid to the optimal contract. So instead we preempt more aggressively. This makes them guess how high to bid, or force them to double us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3264" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T19:37:51.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11855" CreationDate="2013-04-28T20:10:11.100" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You presume that standards have fallen, when in fact they have risen&#xA;substantially. Bidding accuracy from the local club game to the highest levels is&#xA;substantially higher than 50-60 years ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are comparing apples to oranges with your strong 1NT example.&#xA;The modern 15-17 strong NT is all High-Card Points; Goren's 16-18 NT&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;included&lt;/strong&gt; distribution points for a doubleton honour. If you carefully read Goren's works, you will see that he explicitly states&#xA;that the &quot;distribution&quot; points in his system are for &lt;em&gt;hand shape&lt;/em&gt;,&#xA;not ruffing. Strong modern players will subtract a point for a 4-3-3-3 hand, making the modern 15-17 HCP identical to the Goren 16-18.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strong players of the 50's and 60's were &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; cautious players. Culbertson was an aggressive player, Goren was an aggressive player, and Barry Crane was as aggressive as possibly any player in history. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Italians were opening light hands more aggressively than some because their system allowed it. Kaplan &amp;amp; Sheinwold were amongst the first (in North America) to introduce a 5-card major system to improve slam building, but also &quot;systemized&quot;, for club players, a means of recognizing hand shape more accurately than Goren's point count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-04-28T20:20:15.563" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T20:20:15.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8521" CreationDate="2013-04-28T21:58:17.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that this is open again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opposite a strong 1 NT, I bid 3D if it is natural, or I transfer to diamonds if that is available. If partner denies support for diamonds I bid 6D. If he shows support for diamonds I investigate 7D with what-ever methods are available to me. Consider where partner's 16 points are. An &quot;unfortunate&quot; hand from partner would be this: AKJx AQx xx Qxxx, and 6D is looking pretty icy even with all those wasted values in spades. In a practiced partnership I investigate grand slam even if partner denies diamond support initially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opposite a weak NT I will probably still end up in 6D, though I might blind the auction by jumping there in an unpracticed partnership. Why help the defence by bidding precisely when it is going to be of more help to the defence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-04-28T21:58:17.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-04-29T00:07:01.373" Score="0" ViewCount="2587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played a game of Mahjong on the internet, and I had gotten this hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[2 Characters]&#xA;[3 Characters]&#xA;[North Wind]&#xA;[North Wind]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[4 Characters] &amp;lt;- Drawn Tile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Melded Pon of 2 Bamboo]&#xA;[Melded Chi of 3-5 Bamboo]&#xA;[Melded Kan of 1 Characters]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it wouldn't let me declare Tsumo. &#xA;I had a few possible reasons why I couldn't but I don't know the game that well. Can you not have a pair of Winds to complete your hand? Or is my hand invalid in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my discards, it might serve some purpose - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Characters] 7&#xA;[Bamboo] 4, 3, 1&#xA;[Dragons] Red, Green, White&#xA;[Winds] East, West&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5222" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T04:16:21.317" Title="Why couldn't I declare Tsumo with this hand?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-04-29T07:46:57.090" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11860" CreationDate="2013-04-29T04:16:21.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riichi Mahjong has a one-&lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; minimum before you can complete your hand.  While &lt;em&gt;tsumo&lt;/em&gt; gives you a &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; if the hand is still closed, it won't give you anything if you've already opened your hand by calling melds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further details, you can read the related answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8463/1926&quot;&gt;Why couldn't this hand win with ron?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hand, as it stands, doesn't have any &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt;.  If the North wind was active (i.e. if you were playing in the North seat) you could earn a &lt;em&gt;yaku&lt;/em&gt; by calling or drawing a third North tile, but then you would be stuck with a pair wait on one of the 2/3 character tiles.  Beyond that, about the only way you could win with that hand (short of hoping for a winning tile on the last draw or a &lt;em&gt;kan&lt;/em&gt; draw) would be to swap out the characters and replace them with a set of dragons or an active wind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T04:16:21.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11866" CreationDate="2013-04-29T12:34:03.240" Score="1" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most players will bid 1 spade with (s) AKJxx (h)Axxx (d)xx (c)xx. That is, 12 hcp and a five card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &quot;redistribute&quot; the two spade spots, you get: (s) AKJ (h)Axxx (d)xxx (c)xxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many systems would say that this is not enough to bid a short one club. They would require 13 hcp, or something like (s) AKJ (h)Axxx (d)xxx (c)Jxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there systems that say &quot;12 is 12,&quot; so go ahead and bid 1 club without the jack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, are there other systems that say, &quot;your three card club suit is so short, we need 14hcp for one club&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would any of the answers change if the hand had FOUR clubs instead of three and two diamonds instead of three?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T21:43:20.023" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T22:50:09.713" Title="In bridge, what level of strength do different systems require to bid a short minor?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11841" CreationDate="2013-04-29T16:21:40.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not completely a matter of the &lt;em&gt;number&lt;/em&gt; of cards that you know as much as knowing the important features of the cards.  For instance, it might be valuable to know that East holds one more small heart even if you don't need to know precisely which one it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Pieter Geerkens says, every card is potentially important, so it's definitely worthwhile to locate as many as you can as accurately as you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of prioritizing, here are my suggestions for what is most important.  There are two axes: One is which cards to pay most attention to, and the second is what methods to use to locate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For which cards to pay attention to, I would suggest the following priorities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High cards and distribution:&lt;/strong&gt; Honors are probably self-explanatory, but distribution (and not just of trump) is frequently even more important.  You often need to know if a suit is set up, if someone can ruff, etc. At this level, you just want to know &lt;em&gt;how many&lt;/em&gt; cards in a suit are out/are held by someone, and don't care too much about which ones they are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Potential signals:&lt;/strong&gt; If you are defender, you need to know if your partner is playing high-low or low-high, and as declarer, you also want to be able to read defenders' signals.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spot cards likely to be important because they can create or defeat endplays or entries:&lt;/strong&gt; For example, it may be crucial to know that the last of a suit out is higher than your last card in that suit, so it can be used to throw in an opponent, or that you can get to partners hand when partner doesn't have other high cards using your 7 since the 8 is still out, or that all cards 6 or higher have now gone so the 5 over your 3 in the other hand can be used as an entry to a weak dummy that contains a long suit or is key to a finesse. (Added)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;High spots:&lt;/strong&gt; It's very common that the 9 or 10 is high after a suit has been played twice, so you need to know that and where they are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other spots:&lt;/strong&gt; Usually you can get away with not knowing the exact values of the rest of the cards (although remember, you want to know how many each person has), but occasionally it still becomes important.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether #2 or #3 is more important depends on the hand.  #1-#3 are all pretty important, but I think you start to face diminishing returns by #4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Know which cards have been played already and which are in play:&lt;/strong&gt; This is a critical beginner skill.  I have seen many beginners miss tricks simply because they didn't remember that their Q was high.  I still get bitten by this myself occasionally if I don't remember whether someone sluffed an 8 (making my 7 high) or a 6 (meaning the 8 is still out).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assemble a picture of the hand:&lt;/strong&gt; At this level, you start doing deducing distributions from the two hands you can see and the cards already played.  For instance, if you know East started with 2 hearts because he has shown out, and can have started with only 1-2 spades because you and dummy have 10 and West has already played 1, then you also know that East started with 9-10 cards in the minors.  As you get more information, update the picture.  E.g., West turns out to have a singleton club, meaning East has 6.  Therefore East started with 3-4 diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make inferences from the bidding and play:&lt;/strong&gt; Put in information you have from bids and plays that were made.  If someone overcalled hearts, they probably have 5+ hearts -- that narrows the distribution down further.  If West lead and East put in the K, East should not have the Q (unless East is a beginner or using some unusual signalling conventions, or conceivably has KQ doubleton).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Make inferences from things that were not bid or played:&lt;/strong&gt; For instance, if East chose not to open, and if you have located 10 HCP with East and you are trying to identify the location of a king, you can probably infer that West has the missing K.  Ask yourself questions like: Why didn't West lead partner's suit?  Or I know East has 6 diamonds, why didn't he bid them?  (Too weak for a weak two, perhaps?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this axis, #1 through #4 are all very valuable, it's just that the later ones tend to be harder.  #3 and #4 tend to involve some inherent uncertainty, which means you have to be a bit cautious in inferring information.  You should try to evaluate how likely it is that your inferences are correct, and perhaps try to identify alternate scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2981" LastEditorUserId="16275" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T19:16:58.197" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T19:16:58.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11865" CreationDate="2013-04-29T20:16:40.887" Score="13" ViewCount="8638" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the creatures I have is color black and has the skill &lt;strong&gt;Extort&lt;/strong&gt; which could be paid in white or black mana. Can I use this card in a commander deck with a &lt;strong&gt;mono black&lt;/strong&gt; commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T22:03:58.430" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T22:03:58.430" Title="Can I use Extort in a deck that isn't both white &amp; black?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11864" CreationDate="2013-04-29T20:23:49.370" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, because extort is merely a keyword. The color symbol {hybrid white/black} is not part of the card, but only exists in reminder text, which is not officially part of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=15321&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official ruling&lt;/a&gt; on the matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EXTORT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the release of Gatecrash, we'd like to clarify our stance on extort by confirming that, as always, reminder text has no effect on color identity. Extort adds no colored mana symbols to a card outside of its reminder text, and therefore is legal for play in Commander decks of any color or colors (as long as the card it appears on is otherwise legal, of course). There will be no updates to the rules in the foreseeable future that affect how extort works in Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T20:23:49.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11862" CreationDate="2013-04-29T21:35:52.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1)&#xA;Yes, there are systems that that open these ugly 11 counts (Repeat after me: Subtract a point for 4-3-3-3 distribution!), but they are (a) strong club systems that limit an opening bid to 15 or so HCP; (b) systems with a weak NT; or (c) systems with a strong club AND a weak NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B. The average playing potential, in both NT and a suit contract, is almost a full trick less for a 4-3-3-3 compared to a 4-4-3-2 hand. This is evaluated by awarding a point for the doubleton in 4-4-3-2, AND subtracting a point for the 4-3-3-3. You are significantly overbidding your 4-3-3-3's if you do not make this adjustment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) NO, not really; but there are systems that say you really only have 12 points (or even 11) because the hand is crap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) No, the answer wouldn't change on reversing the minor suits in any system I know of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update from comments:&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Considering &lt;strong&gt;AKJ-Axxx-xxx-Qxx:&lt;/strong&gt; Nominally 14; -1 (flat); -1/2 (poor&#xA;honour placement) = 12.5. I would open, in preference order: 1NT if&#xA;weak; 1H if playing 4-card majors; else 1C. With proper evaluation of&#xA;distribution and honour-support, 12 point hands are worth an opening.&#xA;I intend to rebid 1NT over partners 1D or 1S, or raise 1H to 2H. If&#xA;partner jump-shifts I will give a single raise. I will not&#xA;voluntarily compete past 2S unless partner shows 10+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Considering &lt;strong&gt;AKJ-Axxx-xx-Jxxx&lt;/strong&gt;: I wold prefer to see the SK trade with&#xA;a small clubs, but this will do. Nominally 13, +1 for diamond&#xA;doubleton, -1/2 for poor honour placement = 13.5. My preference for&#xA;openings remains identical to the previous comment: iNT, or 1H, or 1C&#xA;with the same proviso. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2 - Advanced Hand Evaluation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Those interested in more precise and more accurate hand evaluation could do worse than to adopt the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jazclass.aust.com/bridge/brbg/bgp22.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Banzai Point Count&lt;/a&gt;. This uses a 5-4-3-2-1 system and then multiples the result by 2/3, rounding a remainder of 1 down and a remainder of 1 up. This can be done independently of any system, or even partnership understanding, to simply improve one's &lt;strong&gt;judgement&lt;/strong&gt; of hand worth. (Of course, if you DO discuss it with partner, it becomes a partnership understanding and must be revealed on your convention card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-04-29T22:50:09.713" LastActivityDate="2013-04-29T22:50:09.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24" CreationDate="2013-04-30T05:21:34.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tech Development is a gamble with very bad odds. The only Tech that wins is Heavy Bombers. On average you will have to spent 21 dice (105 IPC) to get it. In statistical terms in fact you should use the median which is 19 dice (95 IPC) because the data is not normally distributed. For ease we go with average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on average even the US will need 4 turns to develop heavy bombers, and then you still have to buy bombers. Even if the Allies should generally win, against any reasonable opponent this much delay is going to loose you the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion no other nation can afford this kind of investment and be serious about winning. Lets assume we find it decisive if you develop Heavy Bombers within 2 turns (60 IPC, 12 dice). This has a 35% chance. Hence you throw away two/third of the games if you go for Tech. &#xA;I welcome a player who plays this way, but probably not for long because it is no contest. Keep in mind that this is an average, so it could be a lot more. In 50% of the cases you will need more than 105 IPC!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, later in the game, when decisive advantage has been achieved it can quicken the win. But as an overall starting strategy.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5225" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T05:21:34.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11869" CreationDate="2013-04-30T06:32:33.983" Score="17" ViewCount="10935" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Cities and Knights&quot; there is a city improvement which allows you to &quot;collect a resource of your choice&quot; if &quot;you don't receive production on a turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this privilege apply when the following are true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a number near which I have a settlement is rolled&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the robber is on that hex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I own the city improvement described above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, can I collect a resource card of my choice in this situation. According to the description of the privilege I should be able to because I received no production. A friend, however, is saying that I received production but the robber stole it away. Is there a definitive answer for this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5226" LastEditorUserId="5226" LastEditDate="2013-04-30T15:20:25.533" LastActivityDate="2021-06-12T20:19:13.587" Title="Can you collect a resource of your choice if you have no production due to the robber?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11868" CreationDate="2013-04-30T07:23:10.030" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the original Catan rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: If the production number for the hex containing the robber&#xA;  is rolled, the owners of adjacent settlements and cities do not&#xA;  receive resources. The robber prevents it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's clear from that that a player doesn't &lt;strong&gt;receive&lt;/strong&gt; production in the scenario that you outline, even if production in some sense occurs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you should be able to collect a resource of your choice from your improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T07:23:10.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11821" CreationDate="2013-04-30T15:57:26.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer might have been no by the time you asked, but now it is yes: Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://you-say-first.nomeata.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Say First!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried my best with the UI design, but any help there is welcome. Bugreports and feature requests can be submitted on &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/nomeata/you-say-first&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/nomeata/you-say-first&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastEditorUserId="5166" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T12:58:39.830" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T12:58:39.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11868" CreationDate="2013-04-30T20:21:28.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You receive your resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the German version the aqueduct description specifically states that it does not work if the seven is rolled. In all other cases it works as usual. You can find this clarification In the largest German &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.siedeln.de/faq/254_325_de.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; for Catan, but I did not find an English source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does however only apply if you did not get any resources and commodities this turn. So if you have a settlement near both fields with the number you will not get a compensation if one of them is blocked. You may receive progress cards without losing the aqueduct's function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2013-04-30T20:21:28.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11888" CreationDate="2013-05-01T03:32:04.757" Score="6" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to Warmachine and whilst perusing through various fora and what not, I hear that some Warjacks are focus heavy and some are not. Obviously some like the Berserker are focus-light but how does one generally tell whether a Warjack is focus hungry at a glance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5007" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T19:46:25.850" Title="How do I tell at a glance whether a Warjack is focus hungry or not?" Tags="|warmachine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11874" CreationDate="2013-05-01T08:45:52.667" Score="8" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/breaking-news-core&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breaking News&lt;/a&gt; is an agenda that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you score Breaking News, give the Runner 2 tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the turn on which you scored Breaking News ends, the Runner loses 2 tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I find some way of forfeiting it during the turn I score it, does the second &amp;quot;clause&amp;quot; fail to fire, so the Runner keeps the tags?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I think it's ambiguous is because the two effects are listed as separate paragraphs, with separate &amp;quot;when&amp;quot; statements, suggesting they may trigger separately, rather than being both-or-neither. If the card is no longer in play because it's been forfeited, the card text no longer has an effect on the game. (Compare a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/genesis/cyber-exodus/joshua-b-cyber-exodus&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Joshua B&lt;/a&gt;, which has a &amp;quot;when this turn ends&amp;quot; effect as PART of the main effect, suggesting it would have already triggered regardless of whether the card remains in play or not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T09:13:46.603" Title="If I forfeit Breaking News, will the tags stick?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11873" CreationDate="2013-05-01T09:13:46.603" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the latest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/2013-February/Netrunner%20LCG%20FAQ%201.1%20Printer%20Friendly.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; from FFG the case of Archer, Amazon Industrial Zone and Breaking News is mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Corp scores&#xA;  Breaking News&#xA;  and then rezzes&#xA;  Archer&#xA;  through a card effect, forfeiting the Breaking News, does the&#xA;  Runner keep the 2 tags?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. The conditional ability on Breaking News has not yet&#xA;  triggered, and it will not trigger when the turn ends since the&#xA;  card is no longer active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, the tags stick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T09:13:46.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11876" CreationDate="2013-05-01T14:20:55.723" Score="15" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my upkeep controlling a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Confidant&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt; I trigger revealing a card and losing life to it's cmc cost. What happens if I have a split card with 2 identifiable spells? Do I get to choose which one I would prefer to lose my life on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T14:22:27.870" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T18:04:03.800" Title="Dark Confidant and split cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11875" CreationDate="2013-05-01T14:23:45.187" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's somewhere other than on the stack or if it's fused, a split card's CMC is the sum of each half's CMC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.4. In every zone except the stack, the characteristics of a split card are those of its two halves combined. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.4b The mana cost of a split card is the combined mana costs of its two halves. A split card’s colors and converted mana cost are determined from its combined mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; Assault/Battery’s mana cost is {3}{R}{G}. It’s a red and green card with a converted mana cost of 5.  If you cast Assault, the resulting spell is a red spell with a converted mana cost of 1.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.4b is rather poorly worded. As the example shows, the mana cost and converted mana cost of a split card is only the combined mana costs or converted mana costs of its two halves &lt;em&gt;when it's not on the stack or when it's fused&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-06-15T18:04:03.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-01T15:01:33.423" Score="9" ViewCount="2936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am able to calculate the shanten number myself, but it often takes me more than a minute. I'm looking for ideas how to become more efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I'm currently writing a paper about determining the shanten number with a computer algorithm. This works very well so far, but there are likely some ideas for improvements that I missed. I am a really poor Mahjong player myself, so input by experienced players would be most welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rough description of my (manual) strategy right now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, detect any tiles of which the usage is certain. This means tiles that are alone (no adjacent tile within a radius of 2) and sets that are completed (chi, pon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep count of how many single tiles there are. Next, I look for incomplete sets (in a shape similar to any of 11x, 12x, 1x3, x23). I insert one of the singles into any of them and increment the shanten number in my head. During this step, I attempt to keep up to 2 pairs for later though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be some singles or incomplete sets be left over, I split them up and multiply their number with 2/3 (because any 3 tiles can be made into a set by exchanging 2 of them). I also check if there are one or two pairs, if not, I create one (increasing shanten by 1). So far no problem at all, this only takes me a few seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trouble starts when there are multiple options how to combine tiles. Should I split this set up, or should I keep it? Should I add this tile here or there? Especially pure (only one suit) hands are annoyingly complex, and I could not figure out a fast way to solve them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My algorithm of course just laughs at the hands I have trouble with, as it is able to solve even the most complicated hands in fractions of a second. It explores all reasonable ways how to combine the tiles in a tree (with heuristics) and yields the best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T16:31:19.310" Title="How can I quickly calculate the shanten number in Mahjong?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11881" CreationDate="2013-05-01T18:51:28.137" Score="1" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assumed it was 10+pts, and 7 Spade suit -- am I correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="5185" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T19:09:21.837" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T20:32:30.423" Title="Overcall of 3S over 1C opening, what does it show? (assuming bidding system SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11880" CreationDate="2013-05-01T20:11:24.917" Score="5" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I control exactly 1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Basilica%20Screecher&quot;&gt;Basilica Screecher&lt;/a&gt;, and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Launch%20Party&quot;&gt;Launch Party&lt;/a&gt; sacrificing my Basilica Screecher, can I still use Basilica Screecher to extort on Launch Party?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T20:28:12.097" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T21:15:28.187" Title="Can I extort Launch Party with the creature I'm sacrificing?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11879" CreationDate="2013-05-01T20:31:55.660" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Basilica Screecher will no longer be on the battlefield when the spell becomes cast, so its ability will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Placing it on the stack. [CR 601.2a]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make choices (e.g. modes, targets) that need to be made to cast the spell. [CR 601.2b-d]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine the total cost to cast the spell. [CR 601.2e]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate mana abilities. [CR 601.2f]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay the total cost. [CR 601.2g]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only once all of the above has happened is the spell cast, so only then would abilities that trigger on casting the spell trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you sacrificed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Basilica%20Screecher&quot;&gt;Basilica Screecher&lt;/a&gt; back in step 5 (601.2g), so it's no longer on the battlefield when you completed the casting of the spell, meaning its ability will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T21:15:28.187" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T21:15:28.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11878" CreationDate="2013-05-01T20:32:30.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A jump overcall is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preempt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pre-emptive&lt;/a&gt; and generally shows the same values as a pre-emptive opening bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case 3S could show as little as 6 HCP with 7 spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T20:32:30.423" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1936" CreationDate="2013-05-01T22:08:53.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deals can be &quot;unbalanced&quot; as long as they are &quot;within the rules.&quot; That is, either party can offer to trade RESOURCES at 2 to 1 or 3 to 1 in &quot;domestic trade.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you cannot do is to involve a &quot;non-resource&quot; consideration such as action. I can't offer two resources for one resource and an &quot;action&quot; (e.g. refrain from putting the robber on me) even if the deal may actually be &quot;balanced.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the other thing is that you may trade only resoures currently IN HAND. You can't offer to trade, say two resources in hand for one resource now and one resource &quot;when you get it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-05-01T23:03:49.467" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T23:03:49.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7097" CreationDate="2013-05-01T22:11:26.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the reasons you mentioned, you should place the robber on the player to your right, ALL OTHER THINGS BEING EQUAL. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually they aren't. But your &quot;rule&quot; is a good &quot;tiebreaker.&quot; Meanaing that it is one of SEVERAL considerations (you've named most of the others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-01T22:11:26.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11887" CreationDate="2013-05-02T11:24:21.590" Score="6" ViewCount="17795" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thrumming%20Stone&quot;&gt;Thrumming Stone&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells you cast have ripple 4. (Whenever you &lt;strong&gt;cast a spell&lt;/strong&gt;, you may reveal the top four cards of your library. You may &lt;strong&gt;cast any revealed cards&lt;/strong&gt; with the same name as the spell without paying their mana costs. Put the rest on the bottom of your library.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean then when I cast a spell (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Rats&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I look at the top 4 cards which contains a Relentless rat,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I cast this card and then ripple again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I find two rats in one ripple does this mean I can look at my next 8 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3616" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T12:44:09.277" Title="Does Thrumming Stone ripple after ripple" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11885" CreationDate="2013-05-02T12:43:22.620" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The first rat will ripple and then each subsequent casting of the spell 'relentless rats' will ripple, because the triggered ability will happen each time you cast a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a may trigger. Which means once it is on the stack, you may choose to do it or you may choose not to do it when it comes time to resolve the ripple effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T12:43:22.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11885" CreationDate="2013-05-02T12:44:09.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does work like that.  That's part of the point of Ripple... if your deck is built correctly, you can just keep on Rippling all the way through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ruling on Thrumming Stone in Gatherer may be instructive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you cast a spell that already has ripple (such as Surging Flame,&#xA;  which has ripple 4) while Thrumming Stone is on the battlefield, both&#xA;  ripple abilities will trigger separately. Assuming you choose to do&#xA;  all &quot;you may&quot; actions, when the first instance of ripple resolves, you&#xA;  reveal the top four cards of your library, cast all Surging Flames,&#xA;  and put the rest of the cards on the bottom of your library. Any new&#xA;  Surging Flames are on the stack on top of the other instance of&#xA;  ripple, so they'll resolve next. Each of them also has two instances&#xA;  of ripple, which trigger separately, and the process continues until&#xA;  the ripple abilities don't reveal any Surging Flames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, each new copy of Surging Flames has not one but &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; instances of Ripple (one granted by Thrumming Stone) which resolve.  Ripple keeps on going until there's nothing with Ripple left to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T12:44:09.277" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11872" CreationDate="2013-05-02T18:22:38.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be easy as a new player since some of that will come with experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ask what role the warjack is going to fill and then how much focus it will normally need to do that.  Will you need to spend focus to run/charge/power attack?  Will you need to boost to hit? To damage? To make extra attacks?  Do they have something that lets them save on focus (this is why the Berserker is focus-light)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A basic jack designed to run into melee and whack something is going to need more focus than a 1 ROF ranged jack with a good RAT, or one that is mostly just used for its arc node.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4785" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T18:22:38.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-02T18:52:13.243" Score="10" ViewCount="32668" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently introduced to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/72125/eclipse&quot;&gt;Eclipse&lt;/a&gt; via &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bigdaddyscreations.com/products/eclipse/&quot;&gt;Big Daddy's iPad implementation&lt;/a&gt;. I've been mainly playing the AI as I try to get the hang of this relatively complex game. I'm getting better but I hope that veterans of the board game version can share some of their wisdom with us iOS newcomers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T14:06:28.533" Title="What are some good general strategies for Eclipse?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11889" CreationDate="2013-05-02T20:00:02.187" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;While researching the below comments (but after posting the question) I found this excellent post, &lt;a href=&quot;http://taogaming.wordpress.com/2012/08/14/five-thousand-words-about-eclipse/&quot;&gt;Five Thousand Words about Eclipse&lt;/a&gt; on the Tao of Gaming blog. It has some great thoughts about ship size, virtual fleets, and turn nine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I would answer with a few of my own observations regarding strategy to start off. Some of this answer is summaries of some articles on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/775302/eclipse/strategy&quot;&gt;BGG Eclipse Strategy Forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, only keep hexes in your territory if they provide at least two colonies. Territory with zero colonies (which you might have acquired to make a discovery) should be ditched immediately. Territory with one colony can be tolerated a short period of time (especially if they help you get to new territory). The easiest way to get rid of territory is to go bankrupt. i.e. take a few extra actions that will &quot;force&quot; you to remove influence the end of the round.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plasma missiles seem to be the key to military victory. (At least in the base game, which is all that is currently available on iOS.) By mid game you must either be using them, or have a strategy to defend against them. I have no super successful defense, but improved hull and perhaps shield seems key: you need to be able to survive that first missile assault.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As a corollary to the above comment about plasma missiles, you should always have a consistent strategy for your ships. Don't invest in a lot of power generation or hull upgrades if you plan to take a missile based strategy. Don't duplicate techs (shields, computers, drives). If you think you will get the +3 later, don't buy the +2 now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Be stingy with your turns. Avoid taking a turn to build if you don't have two things you can build. (Or three if you have an ability/race that lets you build three.) Same for upgrades: don't upgrade if you don't have two ship parts that need replacing. There are some exceptions, but turns are extremely valuable. Things that save turns or partial turns (like a ship discovery, tech discovery, or part discovery) or often worth taking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider your turn order carefully. At the beginning of the round, contemplate how many turns you will likely be able to take. Consider your current money, how much money you are generating, how much territory you will likely control at the end of the turn (given expansion &amp;amp; combat), and any changes to those that will happen due to colonization/research. Perform actions that are likely to be &quot;competitive&quot; first, such as grabbing a newly available tech, or using a move to pin a ship, using a move to avoid being pinned. Upgrades/builds can often be deferred to later in a turn. (And can sometimes even benefit from being deferred since your opponents won't be able to react to them as effectively.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Consider your ability to build a fleet, if needed. I've heard this referred to as your &quot;virtual fleet&quot;. If you have spare minerals, spare turns, up to date ship designs, and available ship slots you can often build ships &quot;as needed&quot; to respond to an attack or to exploit a vulnerability. As such, I often avoid building my last few space stations/dreadnaughts except in response to an emergency. Conversely, when you attack, consider what your opponent will be able to bring to bear in response. An opponent with a developed fleet can be easier to attack than an opponent with a strong &quot;virtual fleet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The galactic center is very valuable. Not only do you get a discovery and a hex worth 4 VP, but the colonies themselves can turbocharge your production. The difference between a hex that produces 2 colonies and a hex that produces 4 (or more) is much more than double since you only have to pay the one influence. And, the galactic center also likely gives you roads to most or all of the other players. Which can be valuable diplomatically or militarily.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some key &quot;value&quot; techs are: Neutron bombs (critical if you are going on offense), and improved hull.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Key &quot;game changer&quot; techs are plasma missiles (military game changer), techs that allow you to develop colonies (advanced labs etc.), advanced robots/quantum grid (saves huge money). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One quandary I still have is how much to &quot;balance&quot; your various resources. If human, I thought there might be benefit in pushing one as far as possible because the tracks aren't linear. i.e. if you get all of the way down minerals you can get 5 minerals per colony while the first few tracks of research are only a 1-2 research per colony. Why not try to push one all of the way and then just exchange at 2:1 if needed. In practice this seems to not work very well, however. Having one deliberately weak resource just causes to many problems.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Obviously exploit your racial advantages. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastEditorUserId="5232" LastEditDate="2013-05-02T20:21:16.207" LastActivityDate="2013-05-02T20:21:16.207" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11896" CreationDate="2013-05-03T11:06:18.497" Score="6" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterbalance&quot;&gt;Counterbalance&lt;/a&gt; allows you to reveal the top card of your library whenever a spell is played, and counter it if the revealed card has the same mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an opponent has cast several spells to ramp up to casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tendrils%20of%20Agony&quot;&gt;Tendrils of Agony&lt;/a&gt;, and I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Obedience&quot;&gt;Helm of Obedience&lt;/a&gt; on top of my library, &lt;strong&gt;do I get to counter all of the storm copies?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T20:23:27.360" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T20:23:27.360" Title="Will Counterbalance counter storm copies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11898" CreationDate="2013-05-03T11:14:54.917" Score="9" ViewCount="2517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Split cards have 2 Converted Mana Costs everywhere except the stack. I saw a similar question relating to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Confidant&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt; explaining that you lose life for each converted mana cost, however the way it was explained (you get 2 answers) made me unsure if you can counter a spell with either converted mana cost, or the sum of the converted mana costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you reveal (for example) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=292976&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Life // Death&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterbalance&quot;&gt;Counterbalance&lt;/a&gt;, what CMC spells can you counter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:35:55.513" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T15:57:28.383" Title="What does Counterbalance counter, when revealing a split card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11893" CreationDate="2013-05-03T11:51:29.070" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Counterbalance only counters the original Storm spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell or activated ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; a copy of a spell isn’t cast and a copy of an activated ability isn’t activated. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the copies are not cast, Counterbalance never triggers for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T11:51:29.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11894" CreationDate="2013-05-03T12:35:57.453" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New answer:&lt;/strong&gt; While it's not on the stack, Life // Death has a CMC of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amonkhet introduced a &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/news/amonkhet-split-card-rules-changes-2017-04-04&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules change&lt;/a&gt; in 2017 to simplify split cards. When not on the stack, a split card's CMC is the sum of its halves. When on the stack, it has the CMC of whichever side is being cast, or both combined in the case of split cards cast using the Fuse ability (Both halves are treated as one single spell, with the characteristics of each half combined). From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Split_card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.3&lt;/strong&gt; A player chooses which half of a split card they are casting before putting it onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.3b&lt;/strong&gt; While on the stack, only the characteristics of the half being cast exist. The other half's characteristics are treated as though they didn't exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.4&lt;/strong&gt; In every zone except the stack, the characteristics of a split card are those of its two halves combined. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.4b&lt;/strong&gt; The mana cost of a split card is the combined mana costs of its two halves. A split card's colors and converted mana cost are determined from its combined mana cost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Example: Assault/Battery's mana cost is {3}{R}{G}. It's a red and green card with a converted mana cost of 5. If you cast Assault, the resulting spell is a red spell with a converted mana cost of 1.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.4d&lt;/strong&gt; The characteristics of a fused split spell on the stack are also those of its two halves combined (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Fuse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see rule 702.101, &quot;Fuse&quot;&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Old answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If the spell has converted mana cost 1 or 2, it will be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer may seem different to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11875/dark-confidant-and-split-cards&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant question&lt;/a&gt;. While rule &lt;strong&gt;708.5&lt;/strong&gt; adequately answers that question, there are further split card rules relevant to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterbalance%5d&quot;&gt;Counterbalance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.5&lt;/strong&gt; An effect that asks for a particular characteristic of a split card while it’s in a zone other than the stack gets two answers (one for each of the split card’s two halves).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.6&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects perform comparisons involving characteristics of one or more split cards in a zone other than the stack.&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.6a&lt;/strong&gt; An effect that performs a positive comparison (such as asking if a card is red) or a relative comparison (such as asking if a card’s converted mana cost is less than 2) involving characteristics of one or more split cards in any zone other than the stack gets only one answer. This answer is “yes” if either side of each split card in the comparison would return a “yes” answer if compared individually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Confidant%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLife%5d%2b%5bDeath%5d&quot;&gt;Life // Death&lt;/a&gt;, you lose 3 life. This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; because Life // Death has a converted mana cost of 3, but because Dark Confidant receives both answers (1 and 2) and reacts to each of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counterbalance is a positive comparison: does the revealed card have the same converted mana cost as the cast spell? The converted mana cost of Life // Death is &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; 1 and 2, so if the revealed card has that a mana cost of &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; 1 or 2 then the answer to the question is yes, and the spell is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, results that receive more than one answer apply to &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; of those answers. Positive comparisons that receive more than one answer use the &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; comparison (one or more &quot;yes&quot; = &quot;yes&quot;). Negative comparisons (rule &lt;strong&gt;708.6b&lt;/strong&gt;) use the &lt;em&gt;nor&lt;/em&gt; comparison (one or more &quot;yes&quot; = &quot;no).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2019-02-15T15:57:28.383" LastActivityDate="2019-02-15T15:57:28.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11899" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-03T16:43:56.407" Score="0" ViewCount="2706" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are no trump bidders taught to &quot;count your losers&quot; because their 25-26 points represents enough material for nine tricks so that they should &quot;play not to lose&quot; (i.e. to prevent their opponents from getting five tricks before they get nine)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if trump bidders are taught to count your winners, does this mean that their 25-26 points are good enough for only 8-9 tricks and they need to &quot;manufacture&quot; the tenth and maybe ninth trick through trumps or otherwise so they have enough winner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T13:52:54.257" Title="What is the meaning of &quot;count your losers&quot; at no trump, and &quot;count your winners&quot; for a trump contract?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11899" CreationDate="2013-05-03T18:19:08.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'd argue that you should always count both your winners and losers regardless of whether you have a trump, I think this advice stems from the reduced control you have over the game in a no trump bid. Since you have no trump suit that allows you to regain control, there is a greater ability for your opponents to exploit your losers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While personally, I have never heard this advice quite as you tell it (I've been away from bridge a while) when your are considering a trump bid you can use ruffing/cross-ruffing to avoid losers. In no-trump your only way avoiding a loser is establishing a suit; which you typically won't be able to do. (If you could count on establishing a suit you likely would have chosen that suit as a trump.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way of thinking about this is that in a no-trump game the tricks will be spread pretty evenly among the suits. If you have Kxx, you will likely win one of three tricks. In a trump game, more tricks will end up being played with one or more trumps played: there is a greater possibility that only two tricks with that suit will be played (or played without being trumped by you or your partner). It is more feasible that you will only have one trick lost in that suit even though that is considered a &quot;two loser&quot; suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stoppers are probably even more important to consider when making a no-trump bid than losers, but that's somewhat similar in considering your losers. A difference being that xxx (or xxxx) is considered only 3 losers, but since there are no stoppers you could easily lose four or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5232" LastEditorUserId="5232" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T18:28:07.300" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T18:28:07.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11903" CreationDate="2013-05-03T18:30:23.917" Score="7" ViewCount="19304" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/100cardsingleton-commander&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ban list for commander&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any announcement for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trade%20Secrets&quot;&gt;Trade Secrets&lt;/a&gt;. Why has it been banned? Is there any mention of this card from Wizards, a card they made specifically for Commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T20:34:32.633" LastActivityDate="2020-02-24T12:17:23.443" Title="Why is Trade Secrets banned in EDH or Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11901" CreationDate="2013-05-03T18:40:53.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It breaks multiplayer commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two players in cahoots draw as many cards as they wish (including Reliquary Tower, or some other way to extend their max hand size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other things, but I believe this is the primary reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T18:40:53.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11901" CreationDate="2013-05-03T19:01:44.190" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Commander/EDH is a community-moderated format. Its banned list is not managed by Wizards of the Coast or the DCI. Official announcements from the EDH Rules Committee an be found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewforum.php?f=1&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=15735&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 2013 banned list announcement explains&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trade Secrets is much like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Limited%20Resources&quot;&gt;Limited Resources&lt;/a&gt; in that has some issues in a multiplayer environment. It isn't a problem when one player draws four cards and another draws eight. &lt;strong&gt;Trade Secrets is a problem when both players decide to draw 80 cards and effectively turn a four-player game into a two-player game.&lt;/strong&gt; It just doesn't add enough to the format to justify the games that it single-handedly ruins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duel Commander, also known as &amp;quot;French&amp;quot; 1-on-1 EDH, has a separate rules committee and banned list. You can find their official postings on &lt;a href=&quot;http://duelcommander.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;duelcommander.com&lt;/a&gt;. Trade Secrets isn't banned in Duel Commander, since it's not a problem outside multiplayer formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-05-03T19:09:58.487" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T19:09:58.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4079" CreationDate="2013-05-03T22:41:28.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am slightly more cautious than the average good duplicate player, but not much so. I only double when I can &quot;see&quot; where the defensive tricks for a two-trick plus set will come from. One obvious exception is aggressive part-score doubles at matchpoints when the opponents are vulnerable, and a +200 is usually tied for top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update - To address the question more precisely:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Definitely not!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Using this as your guideline will cause you much pain, as astute declares use this additional knowledge to &lt;strong&gt;make&lt;/strong&gt; their doubled contracts. Regularly. Often the only reason declarers go down on bad distribution is that they don't know to protect against it, or can't correctly determine which defensive hand will have it. Give them this knowledge, and the edge is theirs instead of yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-05-05T19:14:30.330" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T19:14:30.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11899" CreationDate="2013-05-03T22:47:44.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Notrump declarer typically must concede some tricks in order to set up length winners. The advice to count losers is a reminder to watch that setting up the ninth trick doesn't first concede the fifth defensive trick (assuming a 3NT contract; adjust for other levels).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a suit contract, declarer is more likely to be setting up tricks with ruffs, before letting the opponents in at the end. In this case, one must be sure that the winners will add up to contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advice is meant to be a pithy reminder to weak and intermediate players, that &lt;code&gt;counting&lt;/code&gt; is important, and that some errors are more likely in Notrump, with complementary errors more likely in trump contracts (for this level of player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-03T22:47:44.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11918" CreationDate="2013-05-04T18:11:20.937" Score="3" ViewCount="1616" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can players choose because there enough diversity of interest so that everyone can get their first or second choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you use a bidding system where players &quot;bid&quot; for a country by specifying the &quot;handicap&quot; there are willing to take to play it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you &quot;draw&quot; for country as in diplomacy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a consensus that the &quot;newest&quot; players play the U.S. (or Britain) while the more experienced players play the harder countries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T18:37:34.767" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T18:37:34.767" Title="In Axis and Allies, how do you choose which player plays which country?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-10-17T15:36:36.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11908" CreationDate="2013-05-04T21:26:27.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever works for your group. Only if multiple players want to play the same country is a &quot;method&quot; even necessary. Until your group knows the game well, handicapping is extreme; use random selection, but even then only to break contentions &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-04T21:26:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2013-05-05T03:27:04.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;NOTE: This is an old school set so bear with my strategy if you have the new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of y'all's strategy is good, but I have a good one too :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Guard your flag with an X of bombs &#xA;(make an X out of bombs, have the flag below the middle bomb, your marshal to the right of the middle bomb, your 3 left of the middle bomb, and your 4 on top of the middle bomb. Place further 4s to the right and left of the bottom X corners).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS have your spy with your general, this way when your general is taken out by a marshal (obviously) take your spy (next to your general which is now next to the marshal) and kill him.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people actually have their 9s in the front which is not a bad idea, but it's also not a bad idea to have a number like 4-7 as infantry. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never attack a non-moving piece. Even though it could be a bluff (like the non-moving piece could be a bomb or 1-S ) just don't attack them. Instead, have your scout see what the piece is then determine whether to take your miner or 4-7 to attack that piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not be good for you but it's how I roll and how I win xD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw it's an old school set so bear with my strategy :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can say now is enjoy the strategy and the game ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5241" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-02-09T08:43:45.730" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T08:43:45.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11908" CreationDate="2013-05-05T08:33:23.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the people you are playing with. My group just need to talk to find a solution. But since we play more games when we play we switch nations with every game so everyone can play his favorite nation at least one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2062" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T08:33:23.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-05T10:25:47.463" Score="2" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;LHO opened with 1C – Partner overcalled with 1S – (I have 6 pts, 4 Spades) → Do I respond with 2S?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. rho pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT :&lt;/strong&gt; what my gripe with this is, that according to textbooks, you respond to opening (which is 12+pts) with minimum 6 pts. Now overcall shows 8+ pts, so shouldn't I respond then with only 10 pts (e.g. 6+4)? (looking for logic in here...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="5185" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T15:16:14.463" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T14:37:08.093" Title="Responding to a simple overcall (SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11899" CreationDate="2013-05-05T13:52:54.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical advice is exactly the opposite. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=count+winners+losers+trump+notrump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?q=count+winners+losers+trump+notrump&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;In trump suit contracts, we count losers. (In notrump contracts, we count sure winners.)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a simplification, but with a trump suit you can often ruff when you cannot win tricks with high cards or set up intermediate or long suit winners. Take for instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S 98765&#xA;H 2&#xA;D 32&#xA;C 65432&#xA;&#xA;S AKQJT&#xA;H 5432&#xA;D 432&#xA;C 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a spade contract you have 1 heart loser, 2 diamond losers, and 1 club loser, so all being well you might come to 13 - (1+2+1) = 9 winners. If you draw too many trump, though, or your opponents realize that they should lead trump, you will come up short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might not be a realistic example since your opponents can take 12 tricks in hearts or diamonds...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T13:52:54.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-05T14:55:20.567" Score="7" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I played Last Night on Earth extensively. Games were always very close, and tough for both sides. We liked it so much we got the Timber peak sequel/expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we find now that the heroes are having a ridiculously easy time.&#xA;After about halfway through the game, the heroes become so powerful they are literally running into hoards of 5+ zombies, and killing every one without a wound.&#xA;I'm starting to think we are missing a trick or new rule, as I can't believe other people would consider what we've seen as balanced. The only buffs to the zombies are generally to fight cards, and only after they wound. Problem is, after a certain point, it becomes almost impossible to wound a hero.&#xA;Yet the heroes now get triple bandages, triple ammo, triple gasoline, police shotgun, very powerful upgrades like winning on ties and extra fight dice. The Ed Baker guy, who can take 4 wounds, and starts off with an upgrade, always becomes an unstoppable tank every game.&#xA;I once had 6 zombies on him, and I was only able to roll to see if I might win once, and needed a 6.. but if I had got a 6 he could have made me re-roll it..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone got any tips/strategies for how zombies might win in Timber Peak?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5242" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T15:53:23.513" Title="How do zombies win in Last Night on Earth: Timber Peak?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2013-05-05T15:25:18.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! Never hide support and a smattering of points if it can be shown at the two level. Especially with 4-card support, any 4-4-3-2 hand with a couple of Q's is worth a raise to the 2 level. This is &lt;strong&gt;especially&lt;/strong&gt; true in spades because of locking out the 2-level from the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives partner a wealth of valuable information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't double on tricks in the overcalled suit (vs a trump contract).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do consider competing forward on extra values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game investigation is possible on a two-suiter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent's have a fit in 1, and maybe 2, suits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the given situation, where you now know that the opponents have a fit in 1 or 2 suits, either partner or opener or both has extra points. If partner, let him know that game might be on; if opener, make it more difficult for him to come back in. a 2S call is perfect here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to play that a new suit (by an unpassed hand) by overcaller's partner is a one-round force, showing support for overcaller's suit. In essence, a long-suit game try. The premise is that if no fit exists, let the opponents balance or double if they must. A NT call by overcaller's partner shows good values but exactly 2-card support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In regard to addendum about comparing responses to advances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Virtually all 12 HCP hands should be opened, but only 8 HCP hands with a good 5-card or longer suit and offensive orientation should overcall at the 1-level. The &lt;strong&gt;total&lt;/strong&gt; points on these two hands may be quite similar after a complete evaluation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Virtually all 6 point hands should respond at the 1-level, but only 6 point hands with 3-card support or better should advance an overcall. Likewise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re terminology: Opener's partner is responder, and overcaller's partner is advancer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T23:27:10.310" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T23:27:10.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3705" CreationDate="2013-05-05T17:14:14.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very few experts advocate, or use, the &lt;em&gt;Rule of 20&lt;/em&gt; as a &lt;strong&gt;primary&lt;/strong&gt; guideline on bidding. Rather, it is used as a secondary measure to assist judgement on close calls, and to aid in discriminating between otherwise similar hands when making a call decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that it is rather indiscriminate, and lacks the precision and accuracy of other methods. It fails to consider other very important aspects of hand evaluation such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Distribution of the rest of the hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The degree of 'fit' in the 3rd and 4th suite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Point location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Point &lt;code&gt;fit&lt;/code&gt;; how points reinforce each other in regards to the other information available from the bidding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this regards it is similar to the &lt;em&gt;Losing-Trick Count&lt;/em&gt;. an essential member of the expert's tool-kit, but only one of the techniques regularly used for hand-evaluation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-05T17:14:14.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11437" CreationDate="2013-05-06T03:00:45.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The book &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Dummies Guide to Bridge&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; is a good modern introduction to the game. Starting with an explanation of the rules, it covers all aspects of play and bidding needed by beginners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author, &lt;strong&gt;Eddie Kantar&lt;/strong&gt;, is a former world champion and one of the most popular, and most respected, bridge writers of the 20th century. He writes with a light, slightly humorous style that is fun to read, while clearly explaining the concepts he is covering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other quality books exist for beginners, including titles by authors Audrey Grant and Ron Klinger., amongst others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An important distinction for beginners is that between the &lt;strong&gt;Rules of the Game&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;Partnership Understandings&lt;/strong&gt; that are essential to achieve even a novice level of capability. The &lt;strong&gt;Rules&lt;/strong&gt; are likely to only be the first one or two chapters of any beginning book, and are the same around the world. However the &lt;strong&gt;Understandings&lt;/strong&gt; needed to begin play vary widely around the world. Here is a quick recap of the most common &quot;Partnership Understandings** for a few regions of the world. (Don't worry about what the names mean; they are just names.):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North America - SAYC or Standard American Yellow Card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;United Kingdom - ACOL&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China and SE Asia - Precision Club&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poland - Polish Club&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Italy - Blue Club and Neapolitan Club&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Understandings&lt;/strong&gt; are a language that you and your partner adopt to enable you to communicate with each other during the bidding. Although the &lt;strong&gt;Rules&lt;/strong&gt; are very simple, gaining a deep understanding of the &lt;strong&gt;Understandings&lt;/strong&gt; that enable achievement will take you a lifetime (or longer, as the joke goes) to master. Start by playing with friends who are also learning, and don't worry about getting the &lt;strong&gt;Understandings&lt;/strong&gt; right at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T03:00:45.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11908" CreationDate="2013-05-06T07:33:41.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll assume we're talking about &quot;global&quot; A&amp;amp;A versions (whole world map)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a consensus that the &quot;newest&quot; players play the U.S. (or&#xA;  Britain)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good question! I found out that US is the worst option for new players because over and over they are overwhelemed with the question: &quot;what to buy?&quot; &quot;when do I get to roll some dice?&quot;.  With no exceptions they have ended up rushing wich results in either loosing their fleet or loosing their ground units, with frustration feeling that had no impact in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these setups might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 players:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: most experienced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RUS + UK: intermediate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AXIS: less experienced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5 players&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Most experienced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK: next most-experienced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JAP: third-most&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RUS: second least-experienced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GER: least experienced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is: US that us and UK may loose heavily at the beggining of the game; and between begginers, those with germany have more chances to smash russia, so an exp player in UK balances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, new players should get the chance to buy and roll many dice :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you use a bidding system where players &quot;bid&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harrisgamedesign.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=40&amp;amp;t=4139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bid&lt;/a&gt; system. In short, if your group agrees that either axis or allies are weaker; you start bidding the ammount of cash that the players will get if they get the weaker team (axis or allies):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;start at 1, no one takes it? bid is 2.. so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can assign the amount between the nations that got it (i.e. if bid is 5 to axis, you can distribute germany 5 jap 0, or germany 4 jap 1, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then buy units with this extra cash and place them in a friendly territory before the games starts, max one per territory. You may also not buy anything and save the cash&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope it helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2013-05-06T22:46:29.200" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T22:46:29.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2013-05-06T20:55:28.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overcalls have more offense and less defense than openers. Ironically, this means that your responses should be about the same for overcalls as for openers, for different reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your partner's overcall shows about eight points as you said. Together with your six, that means 14 for your side and 26 points for your opponents. They probably have an eight card fit, and the ability to make four clubs, four diamonds or four hearts. If their suit is hearts, they have game; otherwise they have a part score. If that's the case, you don't mind &quot;going down&quot; by say, one or even two tricks, as much as if they didn't have a four level contract. Ironically, your weakness (and oppoents' strength) causes you to bid more aggressively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your partner's bid showed five spades (as in an opener) headed (probably) by three honors. Between the two of you, you should have five &quot;natural&quot; spade tricks, one ruff, and one to two side tricks, for a total of seven or eight. On offense, your hands are worth more than 14 points because your spades are solid. If you raise to two, you might make it, and worst LIKELY case, you'll go down one. Given this fact, you probably won't be doubled, and &quot;down one&quot; is better than letting the opponents have a part score in three or four diamonds or clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the opponents' potential for a heart GAME, some experts say that you should go to THREE spades if not vulnerable. That's down one or two, 100-300 points if doubled. Down one (-100) beats their likely part score, and down two (-300) beats their possible game. You can be more aggressive if your opponents are timid doublers because the penalties will be less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-06T20:55:28.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-06T21:49:18.547" Score="5" ViewCount="6069" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;real&quot; war, the Allies concentrated on, and defeated Germany before Japan. That might not have been the case if Hitler had not declared war on the United States in 1941, and the U.S. had concentrated on fighting Japan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Japan first&quot; strategy might be better for the revised edition, with four Pacific &quot;victory cities,&quot; but mine is the earliest edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons for concentrating on Japan might be the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Japan is weaker than Germany, hence easier to beat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In &quot;real life,&quot; Japan occupied (or threatened to occupy), the more populous part of the world in Asia. The revised edition clearly reflects that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the &quot;Japan&quot; player is better than the &quot;Germany&quot; player, it might be wise to give priority to containing &quot;Japan.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan for a &quot;Japan first&quot; strategy would be to have the U.S. fleet engage the Japanese fleet in the Pacific, to keep Japanese air power way from &quot;Asia.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then BOTH Britain and the U.S. build &quot;factories&quot; in India and Sinkiang, respectively. (The idea would be that Japan then could't capture both.) Russia would move forces east to protect India, and Sinkiang and ultimately to capture Manchuria. Each turn, the Americans would spend 10 of their IPCs manufacturing armored units in Sinkiang, while using their remaining 26 IPCs to neutralize Japan's 25 IPCs in the Pacific. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The armor manufactured in Sinkiang (and Britain's India) would recapture Kwantung and Indochina. Together, the Allies would capture nine IPCs and kick Japan off the mainland. &#xA;The downside is that the Germans would probably capture most of Africa (10 IPCs) in the meantime. But both sides would have &quot;consolidated,&quot; the Germans in Europe-Africa, and the Allies in Asia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the above, or any other plan, represent a viable &quot;Japan first&quot; strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:25:06.330" Title="Is there a viable &quot;Japan First&quot; strategy for the Allies in Axis and Allies?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2013-05-07T08:59:41.560" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know, it never occurred to me to ask whether playing a completely legitimate move in a competitive game is &quot;ethical&quot;.  The designers already figured that out when they made the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you are making up your own house rules that say you can make binding contracts with players, like &quot;if you give me the Edinburgh route, I'll let you build to Stockholm&quot; then you are not playing the same game.  Good designers and HUSBANDS should figure out that kind of game balance in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd honestly say that &lt;em&gt;IF&lt;/em&gt; a player is pressuring another player to not compete, because &quot;well, I did something nice for you whenever&quot; then stop playing games with them.  That's not game playing. That's some ugly passive aggressive relationship stuff. You should play games to AVOID situations like that.  I'm not saying it happened in your case, but I have seen it sour more than one social event. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just go with this scenario in the future: You are playing hearts.  The other player is trying to run the hearts (aka getting a lot of points, and causing the other players to lose points). Should you stop them?  If you play with people that answer that question differently, your games won't be very fun, I can tell you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reason there are rules to games. It's to answer questions like the one you brought up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Essentially, I don't understand why it's okay for me to try to crush an opponent by &quot;above board&quot; means, and not okay to do that by &quot;devious&quot; play.&quot; Exactly. And players are free agree upon house rules before a game starts. That's totally cool, and can solve a lot of problems. But you should really agree(!), and before the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bohnanza is one of the least cutthroat competitive games I've played. You trade with people, yeah you can lie or not, but a deal is a deal. Most people enjoy taking the attitude that every deal you make should benefit both parties (but you more, of course). It makes for an amiable and less competitive game. Even so, cutthroat players will have a blast promising all kinds of &quot;future considerations&quot; if you give them what they want NOW. Awww, there's been an unexpected market change in soy commodities. Ah well, I'd catch you up next game (Ha!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more comment and I'll shut up. :)  There are situations where you think you are playing one game (like a fun online multi-player WW2 FPS), and you find out quickly that you are really playing the victim in someone else spawn camping game. Yeah, that sucks.  It's due to poor game design. By contrast, TTR, Settlers and Bohnanza are examples of good game design. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5245" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T08:59:41.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9249" CreationDate="2013-05-07T12:40:30.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find here : &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.beloteenligne.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.beloteenligne.com/&lt;/a&gt; some additionnal information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Belote rules seems so easy, but there were so much &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beloteenligne.com/strategies&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;strategy&lt;/a&gt; going on. In France, they prefer a lot Belote to Poker. &#xA;This game is known because in every family (and at school) they play belote on Sunday after the meal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5246" LastActivityDate="2013-05-07T12:40:30.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2013-05-07T13:30:50.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I will add my bit to the list of answers already.  After reading this question I realized that I suffer from this as well specifically when there is a speculation determining the cost of opportunity of doing (or not doing something). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just being aware of it already had a positive impact in a couple of games. In recent games of Mage Knight - a rule intensive, unpractical game - it helped a lot because making a decision considering the rules/possibilities I knew didn't compare to the rules/possibilities I did not know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess It's because I added my freinds' enjoyment to the decision making formula.  So tellng this to players who are not aware, helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T15:02:25.807" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T15:02:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11926" CreationDate="2013-05-07T15:30:26.277" Score="17" ViewCount="9392" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature has a P/T of *** / ***, but is not the battlefield, What is it's P/T with regards to effects that care about P/T such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Pair&quot;&gt;Wild Pair&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Varolz%2C%20the%20Scar-Striped&quot;&gt;Varolz, the Scar-Striped&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Varolz%2C%20the%20Scar-Striped&quot;&gt;Varolz, the Scar-Striped&lt;/a&gt; to scavenge a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boneyard%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Boneyard Wurm&lt;/a&gt;, and I have X creatures in my graveyard, do I get 0 counters or do I get X counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-05-07T15:42:50.693" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T15:09:48.590" Title="What is the Power/Toughness of a */* when it is not on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11924" CreationDate="2013-05-07T15:35:44.673" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the card in question. If it can't be determined use 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;208.2a The card may have a characteristic-defining ability that sets its power and/or toughness according to some stated condition. (See&#xA;rule 604.3.) Such an ability is worded &amp;quot;[This creature's] [power or&#xA;toughness] is equal to . . .&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;[This creature's] power and&#xA;toughness are each equal to . . .&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;This ability functions everywhere&lt;/strong&gt;,&#xA;even outside the game. If the ability needs to use a number that can't&#xA;be determined, including inside a calculation, use 0 instead of that&#xA;number. Example: Lost Order of Jarkeld has power and toughness each&#xA;equal to 1+*. It has the abilities &amp;quot;As Lost Order of Jarkeld enters&#xA;the battlefield, choose an opponent&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Lost Order of Jarkeld's&#xA;power and toughness are each equal to 1 plus the number of creatures&#xA;the chosen player controls.&amp;quot; While Lost Order of Jarkeld isn't on the&#xA;battlefield, there won't be a chosen player. Its power and toughness&#xA;will each be equal to 1 plus 0, so it's 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you scavenge &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boneyard%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Boneyard Wurm&lt;/a&gt; you will get a number of +1/+1 counters equal the number of creatures in your graveyard before Boneyard Wurm is exiled. (A ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Varolz%2C%20the%20Scar-Striped&quot;&gt;Varolz, the Scar-Striped&lt;/a&gt; reads: &lt;em&gt;The number of counters that a card’s scavenge ability puts on a creature is based on the card’s power as it last existed in the graveyard&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T15:09:48.590" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T15:09:48.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11927" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-07T16:14:58.973" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started an online game of Wooly Bully (La Guerre des Moutons) 2 with the waterproof wings variant &quot;on&quot;, but I'm not 100% sure how this rule plays out in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key line in the rulebook seems to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 enclosed fields containing the same color of sheep separated by the&#xA;  same pond are considered a single enclosure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But can you have a &quot;superfield&quot; of more than 2 enclosed fields joined together by ponds?  What if a Wolf cancels out a field adjoining its Forest - does this cancel out fields of the same colour on the other side of ponds too?  (Does the Wolf get water wings of his own, in other words?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T12:15:44.737" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T12:15:44.737" Title="How Does Wooly Bully 2's Waterproof Wings Variant Work?" Tags="|wooly-bully|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11933" CreationDate="2013-05-08T19:43:53.720" Score="6" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A's board consists of:&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/1 first strike with 4 +1/+1 counters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/1 creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B's board consists of:&lt;br&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/2 lifelink creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B has 5 life and has to block the creature with 4 +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Player A, after dealing first strike damage, transfer the remaining counters to the 1/1 creature and then deal lethal damage to Player B?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastEditorUserId="3567" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T15:28:42.010" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T14:09:17.013" Title="First strike and bioshift" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11928" CreationDate="2013-05-08T20:35:54.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Both players get priority between first strike damage and normal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-05-08T20:35:54.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-08T22:00:54.850" Score="2" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies (as in the real war), Germany and Japan together have more industrial power, represented by industrial production certificates (IPCs) than Britain and Russia combined. Hence The US holds the balance of power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the game is still tilted in favor of the Allies, it is much closer than in &quot;real life&quot; because US industrial capacity has been reduced by almost two-thirds. In fact, bidding systems have shown that if you give the Axis a one-time boost of only 12 IPCs at the beginning of the game, it would be even, assuming that Russia is not allowed to attack the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/177/axis-and-allies-is-there-a-best-country&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies - Is there a best country?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could the game be balanced by reducing America's strength just a bit more? Specifically by taking away 1, 2, or all three of the 3 IPCS per turn that the US receives from Brazil? (This would reduce her IPCs per turn to 35, 34, or 33 respectively.  Even allowing for the factors of time and distance, might this not be equivalent to the &quot;one time&quot; boost of only 12 IPCs to the Axis at the beginning of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-11-07T19:53:30.967" LastActivityDate="2017-11-07T19:53:30.967" Title="Could Axis and Allies be &quot;balanced&quot; by weakening the US just a bit more?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11928" CreationDate="2013-05-08T23:20:20.570" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, given that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt; is an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combat unrolls as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers [CR 509]&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blockers are declared. [CR 509.1]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage Assignment order for attacking creatures is decided. [CR 509.2]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage Assignment order for blocking creatures is decided. [CR 509.3]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority. [CR 509.4-5]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage Step (First Strike) [CR 510]&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attacker assigns damage. [CR 510.1]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defender assigns damage. [CR 510.1]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is dealt. [CR 510.2]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority. [CR 510.3-4]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage Step (Normal Damage)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attacker assigns damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defender assigns damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat Step&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First Strike damage is dealt in 3.3 above, leaving you free to shift counters in 3.4 before normal damage is assigned and dealt in 4.1 and 4.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the counters could also have been transferred in the Declared Blockers Step (2.4 above). However, it's more advantageous to wait until the First Strike Combat Damage Step (if possible) since two creatures get to take advantage of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510. Combat Damage Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.5. If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-19T14:09:17.013" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T14:09:17.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-09T03:48:10.543" Score="1" ViewCount="1204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any board games where you play a mini game within the main game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, imagine playing &lt;em&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies&lt;/em&gt; where you play a quick game of &lt;em&gt;Tic-Tac-Toe&lt;/em&gt; each round to see which side gets a free submarine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T12:31:42.203" Title="Mini game within a game" Tags="|mechanics|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-05-09T16:22:43.067" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2013-05-09T08:19:03.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/an/en/67.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shahrazad card&lt;/a&gt; in Magic the Gathering has the players stop playing the game and play another game of Magic with their remaining cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ze5Xm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T08:19:03.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2013-05-09T08:38:33.557" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been in this situation, I haven't played in almost 20 years and my girlfriend was interested in playing because one of her friends played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn the rules get the Magic the Gathering Game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Digital/duelsoftheplaneswalkers.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/a&gt; for the iPad/XBox/PS4/whatever the free demo should give you a pretty good basis in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are sure you want to continue buy a set of &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Dual Decks&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, they are cheap well balanced decks and they usually have some good cards for you to pilfer once you start actually playing. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/sorinvstibalt/productinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sorin Vs Tibalt&lt;/a&gt; is particularly fun to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told to get the event decks and I bought a bunch of these to get the cards, I wasn't that impressed to be honest, the card selection for the duel decks was much better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also bought a couple of the 2013 &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Starter Decks&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might want to invest in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0089J89S4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Deck Builders Toolkit&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, it provides you with a lot of cards, some boosters, and crucially land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEV5K.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Deck Builder&amp;#39;s Toolkit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go to your local gaming shop's &lt;strong&gt;Friday Night Magic&lt;/strong&gt; evening you might find some people are willing to give you some commons chat with people, I had a friend turn up at my house with two shoe boxes of commons with the instruction to take whatever I wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth picking a format, I've grown to really like EDH/Commander and Legacy because I have a lot of old cards. But if you are just starting Modern might be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to deck build look at decks on &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tapped out&lt;/a&gt; for inspiration and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reddit Magic Community&lt;/a&gt; are surprisingly helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T08:38:33.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4728" CreationDate="2013-05-09T09:24:56.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As to why a fail ace might not be buried:&#xA;It happens, but rarely, all three turn up in your hand (assuming picker).&#xA;A lone fail ace doesn't seem too much of a handicap, in my experience. However, should you have the choice between a protected ace or a lone ace to keep, then.. It depends... as always, on how you judge the strength of your hand - specifically, how well you can maintain lead.&#xA;I wouldn't lead fail ace, as a rule, until after milking as much trump as possible from opponents first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;em&gt;partner&lt;/em&gt; without trump &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sheepshead.org/advanced.cfm#tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.sheepshead.org/advanced.cfm#tips&lt;/a&gt; suggests leading fail ace instead. It does say 'if picker is on the end' too. And, I would add, preferably a lone ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One story melds to another. Meh, it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5253" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T09:24:56.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2013-05-09T11:36:45.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/102680/trajan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Trajan&lt;/a&gt; has you playing a round of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mancala&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mancala&lt;/a&gt; each turn to decide what action you take, with bonuses for accumulating the correct colored pieces in certain locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JXXts.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T11:36:45.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11940" CreationDate="2013-05-09T11:45:19.950" Score="1" ViewCount="2350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glaring%20Spotlight&quot;&gt;Glaring Spotlight&lt;/a&gt;'s anti-hexproof work on enchantments? So if a creature is not hexproof but has an enchantment such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alpha%20Authority&quot;&gt;Alpha Authority&lt;/a&gt;, does it still cancel the hexproof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T12:07:43.100" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T12:07:43.100" Title="Glaring Spotlight anti-hexproof work on enchantments" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11939" CreationDate="2013-05-09T11:59:36.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glaring Spotlight affects hexproof from all sources, regardless of their type or the timestamp order of their effects.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases in Magic, when two continuous effects do opposite things, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5979/&quot;&gt;we must look at their &quot;timestamps&quot; to figure out the final result&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glaring Spotlight, however, doesn't &lt;em&gt;remove&lt;/em&gt; hexproof from anything; what it does do is change &lt;em&gt;the rules&lt;/em&gt; for hexproof. This modification applies to all instances of hexproof on creatures your opponents control, including hexproof granted by enchantments and artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Oracle rulings for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlaring%20Spotlight%5d&quot;&gt;Glaring Spotlight&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures your opponents control don’t actually lose hexproof, although you will ignore hexproof for purposes of choosing targets of spells and abilities you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T11:59:36.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2013-05-09T12:07:13.710" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been many answers to this question, as there are many different ways to handle getting started in magic. Really, the best thing to do is to &lt;strong&gt;explore carefully&lt;/strong&gt; and decide &lt;strong&gt;how you are going to play&lt;/strong&gt; that's the only way to get a feel for how much your initial investment will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, as others have suggested. Regardless of how you want to play, as a new player, &lt;strong&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/strong&gt; is a fabulous way to get a feel for how the game is played. It's available on many different systems, most consoles and PC, as well as some tablets. It gives you an excellent way to get an idea of what different colours do, how they interact, the beginnings of how to use your resources correctly and the best strategies to employ in given situations. If you want to know whether you will like the game &lt;strong&gt;at all&lt;/strong&gt;, this is the best way to find out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you like the game enough to continue from that point to the next step. There are 2 options, Paper magic, and Magic Online (often referred to as MODO). both of these are open to casual and competitive players alike, and the decision comes down to whether you are going to want to play with friends in your local area, with a hard collection to show for your money, or be able to jump in to a game of magic any time of the day or night. Whichever you choose, &lt;strong&gt;you will be making a similar level of initial investment&lt;/strong&gt;, so your choice here really counts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to take the online route, then jump onto the internet and make yourself an account, there are plenty of resources out there to help players get started on MODO, and there are bots who will give new players a handful of free digital cards to help grow their collections initially, besides that, you can buy boosters and enter tournaments just like with paper magic. &lt;strong&gt;you can even cash out your digital cards from recent expansions into paper copies if you complete a full set&lt;/strong&gt;. If you go down the route of MODO, your initial minimum investment will be in the region of $10 for an account, from there you can jump straight in to playing some games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you choose the paper Magic route, then you need to make a decision about &lt;strong&gt;what kind of Magic&lt;/strong&gt; you are looking to play. This is a very subjective choice, and depends massively on the player, realistically, without doing a bit of experimenting, you will struggle to figure out exactly what you want to do with magic. I will expand on this below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Casual Play&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many players (in fact, the vast majority) who will happily buy a few boosters here or there, and then build whatever decks they fancy out of what cards they have, and battle with their friends. These players get a lot out of every single card they own, and generally open a few boosters here and there a few times a week. Players like this will be playing at home with their friends, round a kitchen or dining table, with whatever decks they put together for that evening, maybe building a deck in a different colour for each of their friends that come to battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is the kind of magic you are looking to play, then your initial investment will not be sky high, there are many good answers already covering this, so I wont paraphrase them. I will say that sealed product (boosters/starter decks etc) would be your best choice. You would be able to spend as much as you feel you want to to get a collection big enough to build what decks you need to have fun with your friends, this could be as little as $20 as others have suggested, or I would say up to $100 would give you a very good basis to work from for a larger pool of cards to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Competitive Play described below some casual players choose to follow certain deck construction rules (called a format) when building their decks. One of the most popular formats is called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, which involves creating a deck around a specific Legendary Creature, called your Commander. These decks are 100 cards (99 + the Commander), you can only have one a given card in a deck (other than basic lands), and all cards in the deck must have a color identity that is included in the commanders color identity. There is a Commander special release every November with 5 new decks that are around $35 a piece and are usually fairly competitive (for a casual audience, they aren't Competitive in the sense they would do well in a tournament).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Competitive Play&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If casual play at home with friends doesn't sound like your thing, (either because your friends aren't interested, or you are looking to meet loads of new people to play against, or you want to play to win) and you are looking to play in tournaments, then things go a lot differently, both in how to get started, and how much your initial investment will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different types of tournaments, &lt;strong&gt;Limited&lt;/strong&gt; formats, which require no prior investment whatsoever, are a good way of entering tournament play without having to spend any money prior to the tournament. You get the same chance everyone else gets, and it all comes down to learning how to play that format (be it draft or sealed) better than everyone else. Entry to these tournaments is often more expensive than traditional &amp;quot;build a deck beforehand&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;constructed&lt;/strong&gt; tournaments, but you get to keep the cards you use in the tournament, so its a good way of picking up cards to expand your collection, whilst playing competitively. The cost of draft or sealed tournaments varies, so your local store is the best place to find out more information about this style of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want to know more&lt;/strong&gt; about the types of tournaments, and advice about them, continue below, however, there is a LOT of information to process, and &lt;strong&gt;if you already feel like casual play is more for you, then this information is of little use to you&lt;/strong&gt;. have fun YOUR way, and at YOUR pace!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Limited&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously mentioned Limited formats require no prior cards, you play with the cards you are given by the Tournament Organizer. For limited events you have a 40 card minimum deck size rather than the 60 cards needed for all the constructed formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Booster Draft&lt;/strong&gt; this is the most popular form of limited play. The way it works is you are seated at a table with several other people (8 players per table is considered ideal, however numbers can differ based on tournament attendance). Each person is then given 3 booster packs, they each open one of their packs and keeps a card from it passing the rest to the player on their left. They then take the pack passed to them from their right pick a card from it and repeat this process until there are no more cards to pass. This process is then repeated for the second and third packs, alternating direction with each pack. Each player then makes a deck from the cards they chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sealed Deck&lt;/strong&gt; is the other main form of limited play. In this format each player is given 6 booster packs and has to make their deck from the cards in those packs. This format generally has a lot more luck than Booster Draft since you only get to see 6 booster packs vs 24 boosters you get to see in draft so if you are unlucky and get bad cards there isn't really anything you can do to mitigate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Constructed&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constructed competitive play is a whole different ballgame. This is where things get different, as in terms of &amp;quot;bang for your buck&amp;quot;, you are best off buying individual cards from a reseller, rather than opening boosters and hoping to get the cards for your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, &lt;strong&gt;Event Decks&lt;/strong&gt; have been made especially for you. they are more expensive than starter decks, but with very good reason. They contain more rare and powerful cards, and are generally built so that you can have a hope to compete in a tournament with them right out of the box. They even have instructional inserts to explain how the deck is meant to be played, and giving you some tips on how to use the cards that are included to best effect! These decks serve as an excellent starting point to build on. &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Event Decks were discontinued with the release of Battle for Zendikar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing at this competitive level, especially as someone starting out, it is very important that you start by paying attention to what kind of decks are winning tournaments week after week. There are plenty of websites that will give you a list of the decks (and every card they played) that came in the top 8-16 or so of the tournament. This gives you a very good idea of what kind of decks can do well reliably, and hence what you should be looking to invest your money into building. You can of course disregard this and build whatever you want, but if we are talking about investing $200+ in something, it's probably best to go with a tried and true formula, at least until you have some experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to pick one of the cheaper decks that performs well, so you don't have to spend quite so much so soon, and that's fine, cheaper does not mean worse, and you can build something quite playable with under $100 if you pick carefully. You can also replace some of the most expensive cards with something more affordable if you wish, but bear in mind those cards are expensive for a reason, &lt;strong&gt;they're good!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some key information to remember however with constructed play, and that is the concept of &lt;em&gt;rotation&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt; is the most popular constructed format, by a very large margin. If someone is playing non-casual magic with their own pre-built decks, chances are they are playing standard. One of the key things about standard is that every six months, usually around late September and early April, several sets of cards are &amp;quot;rotated out&amp;quot; of the format, meaning they are no longer legal for play. this means if you choose badly how you invest, you may well find that in a few months you are no longer allowed to play your expensive cards and have to spend that money all over again. Cards stay in Standard for approximately 15-18 months. On the positive side, this keeps the format feeling new and fresh, however, conversely, it does mean you have to continue to invest in new cards to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This puts a lot of people off these formats. Fortunately, there are other constructed formats that do not rotate, however these come with a trade off, as the initial investment is much higher. Eternal formats also tend to have a smaller player base, which means local tournaments are harder to come by, if they happen in your area at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Non-rotating formats&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern&lt;/strong&gt; - this is the newest and cheapest non-rotating format. This obviously provides a massive advantage, in that cards you buy for this format will not ever rotate out of the format. This means that once you buy a deck - with some caveats - you wont have to make a big investment again. The exceptions to this are bannings, and newly printed cards. If the key elements of your deck are banned (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSplinter%20Twin%5d&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt;) then you may find you have to invest in an entirely new deck. Similarly, new cards may be printed which become key elements of your deck (such as the new &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBeck%5d%2b%5bCall%5d&quot;&gt;Beck // Call&lt;/a&gt; which may well become a core element of modern Elves), however, overall this investment tends to be much more manageable than the continued investment in rotating formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players dislike modern, and a lot of the complaints raised against it centre around the fact that your investment into the format is not necessarily stable, as if key elements of your deck are banned, you need to reinvest into a new deck. Modern's banlist is relatively young, and as such is still undergoing more change than in other formats. Modern has seen cards banned or unbanned in many of the announcements since the format was officially released. This turbulence puts a lot of players off the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt; - This is a much more expensive, but also much more stable &lt;em&gt;eternal&lt;/em&gt; format, which means that cards from all sets can be played unless they are explicitly banned. The highest value cards in this format are for the most part pretty safe from bannings, as they have been in the format for a long time, and would have been banned a long time ago if they were causing a problem. The main issue with Legacy is that the investment into a deck can easily reach into the region of $1000s. The main advantage is that your investment is unlikely to be invalidated by future card releases or bannings, and for the most part, wont require much (if any) continued investment as additional cards are released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legacy has its own problems however, and the prohibitively large cost of the key cards in the format takes its toll, While there are areas with a thriving legacy scene, and even some with higher legacy tournament attendance than any other format, in other areas, the player base is much smaller, and in some areas practically non-existent. Considering the cost of the format, it definitely requires some consideration of your local area to ensure you will be able to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vintage&lt;/strong&gt; - the most expensive and intense eternal format. This format has a very small ban list (banning only cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bContract%20from%20Below%5d&quot;&gt;Contract from Below&lt;/a&gt; which reference the &amp;quot;Ante&amp;quot; mechanic which was removed from the game early on, &amp;quot;Dexterity&amp;quot; cards which require you to physically flip cards from a foot above the table such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChaos%20Orb%5d&quot;&gt;Chaos Orb&lt;/a&gt;, cards with the Conspiracy type like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHymn%20of%20the%20Wilds%5d&quot;&gt;Hymn of the Wilds&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShahrazad%5d&quot;&gt;Shahrazad&lt;/a&gt;) and a &amp;quot;Restricted&amp;quot; list, of cards which you may only include a single copy in your deck. Some of these cards cost hundreds or thousands of dollars each, and their power level makes them essentially required in your deck. As a result, Vintage tournaments are very hard to come by. I would not recommend going into vintage to someone just starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, having looked at all your options, here is an overview of what you can expect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casual play&lt;/strong&gt; - Comparitively cheap, you can happily play with an investment from anywhere between $20 and $100, depending on how many players you want to support. You can continue to invest to add variety, or play with what you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Limited&lt;/strong&gt; - No initial &amp;quot;hump&amp;quot; of investment to be able to play other than tournament entry, but quite high continued investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Constructed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard (Rotating)&lt;/strong&gt; - Reasonable initial investment (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgdecks.net/Standard&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;approx $50-$500&lt;/a&gt;), with similar investment to be made at least every 1-2 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern (Non-rotating)&lt;/strong&gt; - Medium to high initial investment (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgdecks.net/Modern&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;approx $300-$2000&lt;/a&gt;), good chance of investment being stable, but good chance you may have to continually invest to keep current.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy (Eternal)&lt;/strong&gt; - High to very high investment (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgdecks.net/Legacy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;approx $500-$4000&lt;/a&gt;), quite stable investment, continual investment requirements small or non existent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vintage (Eternal)&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Extremely&lt;/em&gt; high investment (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgdecks.net/Vintage&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;approx $4000-$25000&lt;/a&gt;) very stable investment, continual investment requirements highly unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T19:37:26.567" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2013-05-09T12:19:32.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mansions of Madness has a number of 'puzzles' that are like mini-games. You have to solve them to uncover clues and gather other important things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrJ2j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mansions of Madness Puzzle setup example page&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T12:19:32.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11934" CreationDate="2013-05-09T12:31:42.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gipf.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gipf&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gipf.com/project_gipf/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;potentials&lt;/a&gt; then each time you activate a potential you play the game the potential if based on. If you win you are allowed to use the potential power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that these rules are optional (for one you would need to own the game, and it also takes a long time if you play with many potential). Also, while each game is played on its own all of them are full games, worth playin gin their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5231" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T12:31:42.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11944" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-09T16:13:17.870" Score="7" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lazav%2C%20Dimir%20Mastermind&quot;&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=140227&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Vigor&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and Vigor dies. Lazav's ability triggers and I have him become a copy of Vigor. Does he now apply Vigor's ability to himself as well, since the ability says: &amp;quot;other than Vigor&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T13:22:14.777" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T13:22:14.777" Title="How do Lazav, Dimir Mastermind and Vigor work together in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11944" CreationDate="2013-05-09T16:26:48.407" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, when an ability on an object refers to itself by name it means &quot;this object.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.4b If an ability of an object refers to that object by name, and an object with a different name gains that ability, each instance of&#xA;  the first name in the gained ability that refers to the first object&#xA;  by name should be treated as the second name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Quicksilver&#xA;  Elemental says, in part, “{U}: Quicksilver Elemental gains all&#xA;  activated abilities of target creature until end of turn.” If it gains&#xA;  an ability that says “{G}: Regenerate Cudgel Troll,” activating that&#xA;  ability will regenerate Quicksilver Elemental, not the Cudgel Troll it&#xA;  gained the ability from. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Glacial Ray is an instant with&#xA;  “splice onto Arcane” that says “Glacial Ray deals 2 damage to target&#xA;  creature or player.” If it’s spliced onto a Kodama’s Reach, that&#xA;  Kodama’s Reach deals 2 damage to the target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Dimir Doppelganger says “{1}{U}{B}: Exile target creature&#xA;  card from a graveyard. Dimir Doppelganger becomes a copy of that card&#xA;  and gains this ability.” Dimir Doppelganger’s ability is activated&#xA;  targeting a Runeclaw Bear card. The Doppelganger becomes a copy of&#xA;  Runeclaw Bear and gains an ability that should be treated as saying&#xA;  “{1}{U}{B}: Exile target creature card from a graveyard. Runeclaw Bear&#xA;  becomes a copy of that card and gains this ability.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the name were to be used literally, the text would read &quot;&lt;em&gt;a creature you control not named Vigor&lt;/em&gt;&quot; instead of &quot;&lt;em&gt;a creature you control other than Vigor&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-10T06:53:25.427" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T06:53:25.427" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11951" CreationDate="2013-05-09T22:51:22.173" Score="1" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite the fact that the odds in the &quot;real&quot; war were heavily skewed in favor of Allies, the game is almost balanced. That is, if it is played with the &quot;No Russian first turn attack rule,&quot; bidding shows that the Axis players will expect to win abaout half the time if they were given 12 more Industrial Production Certificates (IPCs) more than they get in the actual game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/177/axis-and-allies-is-there-a-best-country&quot;&gt;Axis and Allies - Is there a best country?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some British players like to build a factory in India (or perhaps South Africa), and some US players like to build a factory in Sinkiang, even though these factories are at risk of being captured by th Axis and therefore &quot;turned.&quot; But a factory represents 15 IPCs (30 if you count the &quot;swing&quot; from being pro Allied to pro Axis), which is to say more than the 12 IPCs alluded to above that would &quot;balance&quot; the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that if say, Japan captures an Allied factory in India or Sinkiang that the Axis would then have the advantage? Or is it more true, that as game theorist Donald Rae suggests, this would happen too late in the game to make a difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And would such considerations cause the U.K. to build their factory in Australia, rather than India or South Africa? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3991/in-axis-and-allies-should-the-uk-build-a-factory-in-australia?rq=1&quot;&gt;In Axis and Allies, should the UK Build a factory in Australia?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the U.S. to build a factory in Brazil, instead of Sinkiang? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3608/in-axis-and-allies-should-the-u-s-build-a-factory-in-brazil?lq=1&quot;&gt;In Axis and Allies, Should the U.S. Build a &amp;quot;Factory&amp;quot; in Brazil?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(These factories are &quot;out of the way&quot; and NOT likely to captured.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T07:11:32.130" Title="If the Axis capture a factory in Axis and Allies, would the game tilt in their favor?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11946" CreationDate="2013-05-09T23:24:24.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Speaking from general principles, as one who as never played the game but as played a multitude of board games over the past 45 years: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring extreme good fortune allowing a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; early capture of said factory, I believe the concentration of effort required to achieve such a capture would provide compensating benefit to the Allies that would essentially neutralize the capture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any WWII game one of the disadvantages that the Allies face early on is where to defend, as they cannot defend everything. Even just seeing the Axis concentrate forces to take said factory might help the Allies by relieving other strategic areas from stress. I see building such a factory as a gambit by the Allies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Sure, you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; take this factory, but is it worth while to do so?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-09T23:24:24.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11952" CreationDate="2013-05-09T23:24:49.620" Score="5" ViewCount="3156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last several games of munchkin were won via &quot;divine intervention&quot;. All agree that the win is less satisfying than normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any have good house rules to make the card less onerous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/y8W35.jpg&quot; width=&quot;100&quot; height=&quot;150&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5258" LastEditorUserId="5258" LastEditDate="2013-05-09T23:47:53.240" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T18:03:03.077" Title="House Rules for divine intervention" Tags="|house-rules|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11950" CreationDate="2013-05-09T23:43:44.617" Score="7" ViewCount="3670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I only recently learned that you're not allowed to go above level 9, unless it's from combat (or some special cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had played for years allowing higher levels, except you didn't win until you killed a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a common house rule? Or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5258" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T14:24:50.600" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T14:24:50.600" Title="Is it common in Munchkin to allow characters to reach higher than level 9" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11949" CreationDate="2013-05-10T04:44:32.567" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It probably is a common mistake, although it seems pretty clear to me from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 1 under &lt;strong&gt;Starting and Finishing the Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player to reach 10th level wins ... but you must reach 10th level by killing a monster, unless a card &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; allows you to win another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some amount of people must make the same mistake since it is the first rule included in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important Note #1: Reaching Level 10&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule is that you may not reach Level 10 except by killing a monster. If you are at Level 9 and something else happens that would normally let you go up a level . . . you don't. You stay at Level 9. If you have a card or an ability that lets you mess with another player and get a level in return, you cannot play that card or use that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all under the assumption that you aren't playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/epic/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Epic Munchkin&lt;/a&gt;, where the rule wouldn't apply. (But, a similar 19th &amp;amp; 20th level rule would apply instead)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T04:44:32.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11946" CreationDate="2013-05-10T07:11:32.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A factory in sinkiang..&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is certainly going to fall if the Japanese player decides so.  Just grab the map (whichever version you are playing) and check the sequence of R1 and R2, what units japan can place there and what can the allies place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with russian ground units (which are all needed against germany) the chance is slim against all Japanese airplanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grabbing that factory is a major victory for Axis because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russia Alone will have to fend it off while holding germany&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's close to moscow (2 to 3 tiles away depending on the map) so Japan WILL be threatening to take it..&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention of course the loss of IPC (and turns because it takes 2 turns to produce there)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A factory in India depends on the turn..&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;India has more access through sea and threatens only Stalingrad.  Taking this factory means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Axis have Jap transports and a factory to place ground units in Asia each turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allies would rely on draining gound units from Russia and transporting US or UK units from far .. far lands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the Allies cannot match the ground forces in Asia, thus Asia is generally lost to the Axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This move is a major thing &lt;strong&gt;if it's done in early rounds&lt;/strong&gt;.  If it's in late rounds well.. maybe the Allies are about to take Berlin or subduing Tokyo. In such cases this extra victory city and ground units are neglectable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. I see you talk about restricted russia R1.  That means you are playing the Classic edition. If you are concerned about balance and if you have played enough I recommend you try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/prod/spring1942&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A&amp;amp;A spring 1942&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/prod/aa1941&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A&amp;amp;A 1941&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T07:11:32.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11948" CreationDate="2013-05-10T08:08:30.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of approaches that I can think of if it happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't worry about it&lt;/strong&gt; - Shuffle up and play again. Random victories are part of the Munchkin experience. Or, if you'd rather play a deeper less swingy game, try out another game. Munchkin's fun, but maybe it's not perfect for you and your group. (I added this as a comment on the question, but thought it justified being part of an answer too.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove it from the game&lt;/strong&gt; - Pretty self-explanatory. If you consider it to be too powerful, just play without it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevent wins with it&lt;/strong&gt; - Modify it slightly. Allow clerics to gain a level, but say that it cannot be the winning level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully one of these solutions will suit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-05-10T08:08:30.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11660" CreationDate="2013-05-10T14:56:07.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As bwarner &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11665/1315&quot;&gt;said&lt;/a&gt;, roll and move is meant to create some uncertainty and randomness.  In addition, in Talisman (and some other games, like Titan) the player can choose the direction of movement after seeing the roll, giving him the chance to aim for some spaces and avoid others.  With &quot;always move one space&quot; a player will either have to pass through every space on the way to his goal or thrash between two spaces.  That doesn't feel like much fun to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, Talisman &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have a &quot;move one space&quot; mechanism: when you get turned into a toad.  So if that's ever happened to your character you should have some sense of how that mechanic works out.  (Granted, toads have other limitations too, so it's not a completely equivalent situation.)  I don't know about you, but when I've been limited to toad movement my two reactions are: (a) &quot;this is taking forever!&quot; and (b) I don't &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to have to go through that space&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T21:27:15.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11954" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11955" CreationDate="2013-05-11T09:17:53.207" Score="-1" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;My left opponent opened 1S - Right-side opponent responded 2H (I understood: 11+, 4+ card heart suit, shortness in spades) - L.O. responded 2S - R.O. responded 3D (has shortness of spades).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;R.O. : 4 diamonds, (almost) game values (?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L.O. eventually responded 3S ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't analyze it properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="5185" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T09:39:16.740" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T09:39:16.740" Title="Analyzing bidding sequence" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11954" CreationDate="2013-05-11T15:19:04.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;LHO has a hand with just too much defense for an opening 3S call. In particular, it probably has an outside Ace. Perhaps something like:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AQJxxxx-x-Ax-xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RHO's 2H call almost always shows 5 hears, unless a 2-over-1 must be bid first to show a limit raise in spades. This is confirmed by the diamond following bid. So RHO's hand looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x-KJTxx-KJTx-Qxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;void-KJTxx-KJTxx-Qxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RHO's failure to bid clubs at the second turn denies 4 of that suit (unless perhaps 4 little, but that would be amateur), and the failure to rebid hearts denies 6, so the reds are 5-5 or 5-4. The repeated failure to tolerate spades or bid clubs shows the blacks to be 1-3 or 0-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RHO's reluctance to spades also infers an absence of aces; this because a couple of Aces, or an Ace and a KQ combination, would be golden to LHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LHO might hazard a leave in 3H with two little and diamond tolerance, so I infer a likelihood of 1-2 in the reds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T00:02:02.117" LastActivityDate="2013-05-12T00:02:02.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14847" CreationDate="2013-05-12T09:05:43.773" Score="11" ViewCount="1787" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's still early enough in Android: Netrunner's lifecycle that using the full cardlist to build decks isn't too overwhelming, but as time goes on, it could well be, and archetypes will become increasingly prevalent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I like the idea of a draft-based game, in which I show up without a deck and build one on the spot. I think it would be really fun and probably improve my deck-building technique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being asymmetrical, there would be complications (you'd have to do two drafts) and there are other obstacles like influence and identities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, &lt;strong&gt;are there any Android: Netrunner draft formats that people have tried and have found successful?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bonus marks for formats that can work with as few as two players)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-05-12T09:18:27.770" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T11:42:10.340" Title="Do any successful draft formats exist for Android: Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11966" CreationDate="2013-05-12T23:38:32.957" Score="4" ViewCount="14330" Body="&lt;p&gt;Storage Wars had an episode in 2012 where Daryl Sheets finds a bunch of MtG cards, some loose, some bindered. They sell the entire lot at Frank and Sons Collectible Show for &lt;strong&gt;$700&lt;/strong&gt;, basically the price of the three cards below. (If you read online, you can find that all the other cards were commons/uncommons )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FT80W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Collector&amp;#39;s Edition Mox Pearl, a Collector&amp;#39;s Edition Timetwister,  Unlimited Black Lotus&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; What are these cards really worth in their present condition? (And did Daryl Sheets get ripped off? )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=black%20lotus%20magic%20card&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8&amp;amp;aq=t&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;amp;client=firefox-a#q=storage%20wars%20black%20lotus&amp;amp;client=firefox-a&amp;amp;hs=IDM&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=wSGQUa2NNcmWiQK3w4DYDw&amp;amp;ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&amp;amp;bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&amp;amp;fp=89abae541f17253f&amp;amp;biw=1188&amp;amp;bih=743&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google search link for this episode&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5265" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T17:00:23.753" Title="Storage Wars: MtG Black Lotus, others, actual worth?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11960" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-13T06:30:14.747" Score="6" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few weeks back me and my friends were remembering our childhood games, and it turned out all four of us had at least &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20130515090953/http://howtonotsuckatgamedesign.com/?p=2928&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one of these themed board game collection books&lt;/a&gt;. The link has pictures of the book with &lt;em&gt;superheroes&lt;/em&gt;. I had a book themed with &lt;em&gt;insects&lt;/em&gt;, and two other friends of mine remember having one with &lt;em&gt;racing tracks&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;action movie heroes&lt;/em&gt;. I'd like to know what other games were in this series, and possibly find some pictures of them to share with my friends and be all nostalgic for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I very much hope this type of questions is on topic here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5268" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T17:43:44.527" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T17:43:44.527" Title="What are the other games in this series?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11960" CreationDate="2013-05-13T13:45:58.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently they were made by Tormont Publishing out of Canada in the early 90s, and they made them with all kinds of themes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been able to find a reference to a disny version, 'game' version and others. Sadly there is no real documentation for any of it, not even a wiki. &lt;a href=&quot;http://openlibrary.org/publishers/Tormont#page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is a partial list of books that Tormont published. You can see a bunch of the game books in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11169/giant-game-board-book&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board game geek&lt;/a&gt; has an entry for the 'game' book and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22415/giant-intergalactic-electronic-game-book&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;science fiction version&lt;/a&gt; which was apparently made in the late 90s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/2894295847&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is an add for a Disney-themed one&lt;/a&gt; on Amazon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems they licensed all kinds of material but they must not have been that popular because they do not seem to have survived. There are very few pictures of them out there and copies, when available, range between $40 - $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you will have to pick something else to wax nostalgic about.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="1047" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T03:33:12.657" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T03:33:12.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11963" CreationDate="2013-05-13T13:55:51.500" Score="7" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I reveal and cast a miracle like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporal%20Mastery&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bonfire%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Bonfire of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entreat%20the%20Angels&quot;&gt;Entreat the Angels&lt;/a&gt;, When I am choosing a value for X, must it take into account effects like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thalia%2C%20Guardian%20of%20Thraben&quot;&gt;Thalia, Guardian of Thraben&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20of%20the%20Absolute&quot;&gt;Council of the Absolute&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. If I tap 6 mana to Miracle cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entreat%20the%20Angels&quot;&gt;Entreat the Angels&lt;/a&gt; whilst &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20of%20the%20Absolute&quot;&gt;Council of the Absolute&lt;/a&gt; is in play (naming Entreat the Angels), is X 4, or is X 6? Similarly, if I miracle &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporal%20Mastery&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt; under the same circumstances, does it cost only a single Blue mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T14:37:41.767" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T18:50:39.223" Title="How does casting a card for its miracle cost interact with cost modifying abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11962" CreationDate="2013-05-13T14:11:18.257" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the cost is still increased or decreased. For your example, X would be 6, because Entreat the Angels for x=6 only costs you 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.9. Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or “You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.” Note that some alternative costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;117.9a Only one alternative cost can be applied to any one spell as it’s being cast. The controller of the spell announces his or her intentions to pay that cost as described in rule 601.2b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;117.9b Alternative costs are always optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;117.9c An alternative cost doesn’t change a spell’s mana cost, only what its controller has to pay to cast it. Spells and abilities that ask for that spell’s mana cost still see the original value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;117.9d &lt;strong&gt;If an alternative cost is being paid to cast a spell, any additional costs, cost increases, and cost reductions that affect that spell are applied to that alternative cost.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 601.2e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you don't pay whatever mana you want, and then calculate what X is, though.. it's the other way around. You choose an X, and then pay that cost. In your example, you can choose X=6, which would normally cost you 8, but it is reduced to 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.3a If a spell or activated ability has a mana cost, alternative cost, additional cost, and/or activation cost with an , [-X], or X in it, and the value of X isn't defined by the text of that spell or ability, the controller of that spell or ability chooses and announces the value of X as part of casting the spell or activating the ability. (See rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells.&quot;) While a spell is on the stack, any X in its mana cost equals the announced value. While an activated ability is on the stack, any X in its activation cost equals the announced value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T14:20:05.653" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T14:20:05.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11962" CreationDate="2013-05-13T18:38:23.670" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, cost increases and cost reductions apply. (And so do additional costs.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;X&amp;quot; is whatever you chose, so 6. It doesn't change after you choose it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, it will cost {U}.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost to cast a spell (as defined in [CR 601.2e]) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= mana cost or alternative cost + additional costs and cost increases - cost reductions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miracle is an alternative cost [CR 702.92a, 117.9].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thalia%2C%20Guardian%20of%20Thraben&quot;&gt;Thalia, Guardian of Thraben&lt;/a&gt; creates a cost increase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20of%20the%20Absolute&quot;&gt;Council of the Absolute&lt;/a&gt; creates a cost reduction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; is a value you &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; [CR 107.3a]. The cost may be based on the value of X, but X is not based on what you payed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entreat%20the%20Angels&quot;&gt;Entreat the Angels&lt;/a&gt; for its Miracle cost while you control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20of%20the%20Absolute&quot;&gt;Council of the Absolute&lt;/a&gt; naming Entreat the Angels, and you choose X=6, you must pay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= &lt;s&gt;mana cost&lt;/s&gt; or alternative cost + &lt;s&gt;additional costs&lt;/s&gt; and &lt;s&gt;cost increases&lt;/s&gt; - cost reductions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= {6}{W}{W} - {2}&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= {4}{W}{W}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X doesn't change after you choose it, so it's 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporal%20Mastery&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt; while you control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20of%20the%20Absolute&quot;&gt;Council of the Absolute&lt;/a&gt; naming Temporal Mastery, you must pay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= &lt;s&gt;mana cost&lt;/s&gt; or alternative cost + &lt;s&gt;additional costs&lt;/s&gt; and &lt;s&gt;cost increases&lt;/s&gt; - cost reductions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= {1}{U} - {2}&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= {U}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the rules noted above in case you're interested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2e The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions. If the mana component of the total cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered to be {0}. It can’t be reduced to less than {0}. Once the total cost is determined, any effects that directly affect the total cost are applied. Then the resulting total cost becomes “locked in.” If effects would change the total cost after this time, they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.92a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). “Miracle [cost]” means “You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it’s the first card you’ve drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.9. Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or “You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.” Note that some alternative costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.3a If a spell or activated ability has a mana cost, alternative cost, additional cost, and/or activation cost with an {X}, [-X], or X in it, and the value of X isn’t defined by the text of that spell or ability, the controller of that spell or ability chooses and announces the value of X as part of casting the spell or activating the ability. (See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”) While a spell is on the stack, any X in its mana cost equals the announced value. While an activated ability is on the stack, any X in its activation cost equals the announced value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T18:50:39.223" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T18:50:39.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2013-05-13T18:59:12.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;www.trekcc.org maybe able to help you out, as the game is not dead as others are trying to tell you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5271" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T18:59:12.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11958" CreationDate="2013-05-13T19:06:19.090" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really fair to judge if he got a decent price or not based just on retail value.  Just like trading in a car, you usually could have gotten more money selling it yourself, but the additional time requirements and overall hassle do not always make economic sense for your situation.  I need a new car now, not after I eventually find a buyer for my old one, Darrel needs to get whatever value he can out of his locker before the next episode so he can buy another locker, not when he eventually finds a Magic collector interested in that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So since he knowingly chose to turn them in to a dealer instead of attempt to retail them himself, it's more fair to look at buy-list prices than retail prices.  As of May 2013 Star City Games is offering 1000USD for a Mint Condition Unlimited Black Lotus (white-bordered printing), Troll and Toad is offering 1130USD.  (Just two of the largest and best known Internet retailers, chosen arbitrarily by me.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the Lotus in that picture appears to have a rip in the lower left corner, which makes it basically worthless to collectors (who wouldn't usually be all that interested in the white-bordered printing anyway).  It only has whatever value it has to people who actually want to use it while playing the game.  Ever tried to sell a comic book with torn cover?  More or less the same.  I am no professional dealer, but I think giving around half the mint price for a torn card is very fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two have square corners, meaning they are from a special set of printings known as the &quot;Collector's Edition,&quot; which are not considered &quot;real&quot; Magic cards and cannot be used in official tournaments.  They have some street value because some people like to have the &quot;almost real&quot; version when playing the game in formats where fake cards are allowed.  The current buy list value for both combined is $65 in May 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card is not torn and is only creased, then yes he probably could have eventually done a bit better by retailing it, but we're back to the used car analogy.  It's also arguably even harder to move that product than a car if you're not already an established retailer.  A retailer like Star City Games can sell a white-border Lotus for $1500 online because Ben Bleiweiss is a household name in the collector community and people trust him not to sell them a counterfeit card.  If a seller with no history of moving Magic cards at all tossed a damaged Black Lotus up on eBay expecting people to be willing to pay anything resembling retail for it, they will find themselves relisting that auction for a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T19:42:57.253" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T19:42:57.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11957" CreationDate="2013-05-13T19:18:38.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had this idea a few weeks ago and went looking for an answer. I found one that a friend and I tried that could be used with as few as two players, but also has the ability to scale to more. I lay this version out below. I also found one on &lt;a href=&quot;http://stimhack.com/drafting-with-netrunner/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;StimHack&lt;/a&gt; but haven't tried yet; this ones also looks good, so it's probably worth experimenting. The only downside of the StimHack format is that it is written specifically for 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;For as Few as Two Players&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this out in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/877276/netrunner-draft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; on Board Game Geek. A friend and I tried it with just the two of us and it worked reasonably well. I'll outline the basics of setting this up, but read the OP and comments for a fuller understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with one core set per two players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take out all Identity, Private Security Force and Priority Registration cards and set them aside&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle the Runner and Corporation cards separately, then take out 1 random Runner card and 14 random Corp cards (this should leave you with 110 each of Runner and Corp cards per two players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the remaining cards into packs of 11 cards each, continuing to keep the Runner and Corporation separate. With two players, this should give you ten packs for each side (note that the OP says these packs could be different sizes as long as they're evenly sized and there are the same number for Runner and Corp)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Split the packs evenly, with each player taking half the Runner packs and half the Corp packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start drafting! Make sure that you are drafting different sides. If Alice starts by drafting Runner, Bob should start drafting Corp so each player is drafting both each round. If you have four players, make sure it goes Runner/Corp/Runner/Corp. Scale appropriately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The OP notes that they started by drafting one card for the first pick out of a pack, then started drafting two cards for each pick after that. My friend and I only took one at a time. I don't see a huge functional difference in this. There may just be more of a time commitment when only taking one at a time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the draft, each player should have 55 each of Runner cards and Corp cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't get an identity; ignore influence values. Each deck must be at least 45 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This next part is important, so here's a block quote:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the Corp deck, you must obey the Agenda point requirement, so you're allowed to add unlimited copies of Priority Requisition and/or Private Security Force to your deck if you didn't draft enough Agendas during the draft phase. HOWEVER, if you need to add more than three copies of either Priority Requisition or Private Security Force, then you MUST also have at minimum one less copy of the other card in your deck. So, for example, if you want to play with four copies of Private Security Force then you MUST have at least three copies of Priority Requisition in your deck. But you're allowed to play with three Priority Requisition and zero Private Security Force if you drafted enough other Agendas to meet the minimum Agenda Point requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final step: play with normal rules. Like I said, a friend and I tried this and it worked pretty well. You do lose a lot of the flavor (as some of the comments point out), but the format itself is functional. A comment by Jeff Engel at the bottom of the page offers a decent solution to using identities, we just didn't try it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why not just count up the faction points of what you drafted, whatever you have the most of is your faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2013-05-13T19:30:33.973" LastActivityDate="2013-05-13T19:30:33.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2013-05-14T13:15:38.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://Trollandtoad.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trollandtoad.com&lt;/a&gt; has listings for all sorts of Star Trek singles.  Of course, that is the price they're selling them for, so if you're trying to sell them yourself, you're going to get a lot less than that.  They seem to be selling most cards for less than $5.  Future Enterprise is listed at $40 (and out of stock).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T13:15:38.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11979" CreationDate="2013-05-14T15:30:26.827" Score="5" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent controls a tapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nettle%20Sentinel&quot;&gt;Nettle Sentinel&lt;/a&gt;, and has cast 1 copy of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20of%20Nature&quot;&gt;Glimpse of Nature&lt;/a&gt; this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then play an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Visionary&quot;&gt;Elvish Visionary&lt;/a&gt;, and in response I do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack starts to resolve and my opponent draws 2 cards which is evidence the Glimpse of nature and Elvish Visionary have resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then move to untap their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nettle%20Sentinel&quot;&gt;Nettle Sentinel&lt;/a&gt;. In this instance because the abilities on the stack would be resolving out of order, did they miss the Nettle Sentinel's triggered ability or is this covered by out of order sequencing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T15:54:08.877" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T23:27:06.800" Title="If my opponent tries to resolve a triggered ability out of order, did they miss their opportunity to do so?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11969" CreationDate="2013-05-14T15:51:55.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent should have chosen to untap Nettle Sentinel before drawing his second card (the card drawn when Elvish Visionary entered the battle field). Normally, out-of-order sequencing would allow actions like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, You could argue that he missed the trigger due to the fact that he received extra information that influenced his decision to untap by drawing the second card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An out-of-order sequence must not result in a player prematurely&#xA;  gaining information which could reasonably affect decisions made later&#xA;  in that sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF2.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T15:51:55.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11972" CreationDate="2013-05-14T19:28:15.093" Score="2" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll lay out the situation.  I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iron%20Maiden&quot;&gt;Iron Maiden&lt;/a&gt; in play.  My opponent begins his turn with 10 cards in his hand (including a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disenchant&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt;), and 1 life.  Iron Maiden's ability triggers at the beginning of his upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can he Disenchant it in response to avoid taking the damage?  Is there some other time after untap phase that he can Disenchant it, or was he doomed to lose from the moment his turn began?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5276" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T14:27:57.380" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T14:27:57.380" Title="Can an opponent destroy an Iron Maiden during their upkeep to avoid taking damage from it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2013-05-14T19:32:35.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  The &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=iron%20maiden&quot;&gt;iron maiden&lt;/a&gt;'s ability goes onto the stack before any player gets priority, and it will resolve regardless of whether it's source is still on the battlefield when it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source&#xA;after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities&#xA;cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer&#xA;deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability&#xA;doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered&#xA;ability that references information about the source because the&#xA;effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is&#xA;put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it&#xA;resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone&#xA;it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is&#xA;used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer&#xA;exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;503  Upkeep Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;503.1. First, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the upkeep step and any abilities that triggered during the turn’s untap&#xA;step go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;503.2. Second, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;503.3. If a spell states that it may be cast only “after [a player’s] upkeep step,” and the turn has multiple upkeep steps, that spell may&#xA;be cast any time after the first upkeep step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T20:30:16.310" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T20:30:16.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11971" CreationDate="2013-05-14T19:34:49.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. No player gets priority until after the triggered abilities that happen at the beginning of the upkeep step have gone on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;502.3. No player receives priority during the untap step, so no spells or abilities can be played or resolved. Any ability that triggers&#xA;during this step will be held until the next time a player would&#xA;receive priority, which is usually during the upkeep step. (See rule&#xA;503, &amp;quot;Upkeep Step.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;503 Upkeep Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;503.1. First, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the upkeep step and any abilities that triggered during the turn's untap&#xA;step go on the stack. (See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/500/%7E/magic%3A-the-gathering%3A-phases-and-steps-in-a-turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/500/~/magic%3A-the-gathering%3A-phases-and-steps-in-a-turn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T19:34:49.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5861" CreationDate="2013-05-14T21:34:50.117" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the interesting ways of adding a “handicap” without breaking the balance is to make some promises. So you would playing the standard rules, but in a way to make your life harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Destination Tickets&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a minor handicap you could say that you wouldn't discard any Destination Tickets on start. A bit more serious — when getting new Destination Tickets you would keep two instead of three, or even all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, you could spend the first turn by getting more Destination Tickets without doing anything else. Or say you'd draw more Destination Tickets when you'll spend half of your train cars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you could reveal one or more Destination Tickets, so our opponents would know where to block you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Drawing cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could say you would always draw in a specific way, like always take two random cards without touching the face-up ones, or always draw one face-up and one random. Or don't ever draw locomotives from the face-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you could then show the drawn random card, or always show any number of cards in your hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Claiming routes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could say you would claim routes in a specific order. For example, you could say you would claim routes starting from the smallest and at any time you would claim the route that is either higher or smaller than previous by one. So, you could claim 1-2-1-2-3-4-3-4-5-4 etc. There could be many variations of such handicap, like messing with colors or saying you would claim only those routes whose colors are there in face-up cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those things wouldn't break the balance, because you could do everything from this list anyway. But the things you're promising to do would be clear from the start, so there won't be a feeling that you're just playing dumb with your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this would give you a new challenge :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5273" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T21:34:50.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11976" CreationDate="2013-05-14T22:30:07.550" Score="16" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we play Ticket to Ride we sometimes forget to score the points and move the score markers. You know; you're playing not only to &lt;em&gt;get points&lt;/em&gt;, but to enjoy the game. And when someone realises they forgot to score a route, we need to recalculate all the routes from the beginning, and that's not very fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the best ways to not forget that you need to score? Maybe there's a specific way to mark what you're going to do, like scoring first and only then paying for the route? But when playing games with tunnels I fear we could forget to &quot;unscore&quot; such points if we couldn't complete the route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope we're not the only forgetful players out there, and someone already came up with a solution to this. We've played ten games so far and are still having this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5273" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-14T23:35:47.510" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T18:40:24.423" Title="How can we remember to score points for claimed routes?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|scoring|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11975" CreationDate="2013-05-14T22:41:01.343" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually just don't bother to score any points at all until the end of the game.  Then, you go over all the claimed routes and score them, as well as scores for tickets to determine the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-05-14T22:41:01.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11984" CreationDate="2013-05-15T00:25:03.800" Score="2" ViewCount="1702" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Qin was one of seven (yes, seven) &quot;warring states&quot; in China several hundred years B.C. During its rise to power, it often followed a policy of &quot;ally with the three far states against the three near states.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone won (or lost) a game of Diplomacy using such a strategy? Does it work better using some countries than others (e.g. England, allied with Turkey, Austria-Hungary, and Italy against France, Germany, and Russia)? Or are there any good articles on such a strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T11:49:27.180" Title="Can people win at Diplomacy using a &quot;Qin strategy?&quot;" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11977" CreationDate="2013-05-15T01:45:11.780" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/strong&gt; you are not playing countries; you are playing your opponents. There are tremendous advantages to allying with nearby countries; as there are tremendous advantages to allying with non-adjacent countries. Which is better in any particular game has more to do with the players, than the countries. That is why the difference between countries diminishes as the player quality increases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a really strong game I don't see any particular disadvantage to playing Italy or Germany, but in a weak game it is important to be Britain or Turkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Every country starts with three neighbors, except Italy and Russia who start with four. Anyone who starts by quickly making enemies of all neighbours is on the fast track to finish seventh. A strategy like the Qin strategy (which of course was also popularized by Machiavelli) only works for someone who is actually stronger than his collective neighbours, or can at least withstand them singlehanded. In Diplomacy, as in &lt;strong&gt;Survivor&lt;/strong&gt;, you win by having &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; allies than your enemy does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2021-03-01T11:39:53.230" LastActivityDate="2021-03-01T11:39:53.230" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="11979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11969" CreationDate="2013-05-15T02:18:14.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before examining the merits, let's keep in mind that it's a very natural out of order sequencing since he could end up doing draw-untap-draw otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limit on out of order sequencing is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An out-of-order sequence must not result in a player prematurely gaining information which could reasonably affect decisions made later in that sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he hesitates after drawing but before untapping, he's clearly in error. Out-of-order sequencing is not an excuse for doing something you forgot to do earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other end of the spectrum, if he says &quot;I draw two and untap&quot; and proceeds to do so, it's clearly ooos and not a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what if he silently proceeds to draw two and untap? It's undeniable that information is gained, but that's not sufficient to prevent ooos. It comes down to whether the draw &lt;em&gt;reasonably&lt;/em&gt; affects whether Nettle Sentinel the player untaps the Sentinel or not, and there's no guidelines for determining this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing probably doesn't affect his choice &amp;mdash; it's hard to imagine that he'd decide whether he'd untap or not based on what he drew &amp;mdash; so it's probably ok. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T23:27:06.800" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T23:27:06.800" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2013-05-15T05:20:29.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buy a dev card when you want a knight. Getting something else is usually good too, notably except an early vp. It is good to dev when you're ahead because the robber will be played on you, or anytime you are very vulnerable to the robber. And when pursuing army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a time not to dev is when it will prevent you from getting a critical settlement or city. When the choice is between deving and ending your turn with 8+ cards, usually dev.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have no more important cities and settlements to place, deving becomes a priority if you have a chance to get army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5278" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T05:20:29.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11982" CreationDate="2013-05-15T08:54:41.063" Score="4" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control an untapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Sharpshooter&quot;&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter&lt;/a&gt;, My opponent controls a 3/3 Beast Token, I Cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; on the Beast, to kill it. Do I have to tap my Sharpshooter before the beast dies to get the trigger allowing me to untap it? Or will it trigger regardless, allowing me to ping with the trigger on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is relevant as being able to wait gives me the opportunity to know that my sharpshooter will definitely untap before I tap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T12:10:12.717" Title="Do Untap triggers still trigger when the creature is untapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11981" CreationDate="2013-05-15T11:56:50.837" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You do not need to tap it before the creature dies, you will have an opportunity before the untap trigger resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Sharpshooter&quot;&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter&lt;/a&gt; does not contain an intervening &amp;quot;if&amp;quot; clause, but rather a normal triggered ability &lt;strong&gt;[CR 603.1]&lt;/strong&gt;. This means that whenever the event occurs, &amp;quot;a creature dies,&amp;quot; an untap trigger is placed on the stack &lt;strong&gt;[CR 603.1]&lt;/strong&gt; . As with all objects, you and your opponent have the opportunity to cast spells and activate abilities in response to to the objects on the stack before they resolve &lt;strong&gt;[CR 116.4]&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intervening &amp;quot;if&amp;quot; clauses require that the event that they are checking is true when being placed on the stack and when resolving &lt;strong&gt;[CR 603.4]&lt;/strong&gt;. For Goblin Sharpshooter to not trigger because it is untapped would require a triggered ability like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever a creature dies, if ~this~ is tapped, untap it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&amp;quot; and begin with the word &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at.&amp;quot; They can also be expressed as &amp;quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability's trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn't do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read &amp;quot;When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].&amp;quot; When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T12:10:12.717" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T12:10:12.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11975" CreationDate="2013-05-15T13:18:48.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I keep track on a piece of paper.  Doing this lets you go back anytime during the game to see if a claim was not scored.  At the end of the game, if the game scores are close, I'll go back through and double check or re-score the claims.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Plr1        Plr2      Plr3&#xA;2    2      4    4      4    4&#xA;4    6                  1    5&#xA;1    7                  2    7&#xA;4    11&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T13:18:48.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11977" CreationDate="2013-05-15T15:42:50.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a hard time seeing this being successful.  The problem is that it doesn't mean much in the early game for England to be allied with Austria or Turkey.  So effectively you'd be playing EI versus FG, while Austria and Turkey teamed up on Russia.  The likely scenario is that the 2 v 2 battle doesn't go very far, and the 2 v 1 battle goes well, resulting in a stronger Austria and Turkey.  At that point, Turkey pretty much has to attack Austria or Italy, and either way doesn't seem to bode well for England.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, having an ally across the board is nice, but it isn't a replacement for having an ally that you can coordinate with directly, especially in the early game.  You'd need to look at it as more of a long-term alliance.  Perhaps as England you coordinate with Austria, Turkey, and Italy, but you start by getting Germany to help you take apart France quickly (with Italy's help), then activate your cross-board alliance to take out Germany.  It's debatable whether that really meets the criteria of a &quot;Qin strategy&quot; though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T15:42:50.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11975" CreationDate="2013-05-15T17:25:43.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We keep score during the game but almost always are off by a few points at the end. It's not always from forgetfulness - it's also possible to bump the score markers. Even when counting at the end it's easy to miss a route or count one twice. So at the end of game, here's what we do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We count one player at a time. For each player:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One player will examine each route and call out the score for the route. To minimize chance of error, the longest continuous string of routes is traced first and fingers are sometimes used to mark a section that was skipped because it was not part of the longest string of routes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A separate person moves the score marker, keeping their eyes only on the score track.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the score is very far off from the accumulated game score or if there is any doubt whatsoever, we count again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the second count is different from 1st count, we count a 3rd time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may seem laborious but it usually takes about a minute per player. We find that most errors occur when there are many different side branches. A player with a string of 30 or more cars with no branches is easier to count accurately the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-05-15T22:07:32.263" LastActivityDate="2013-05-15T22:07:32.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11986" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-16T02:27:34.983" Score="2" ViewCount="4404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the ideas (and graphics) for two decks of cards. Googling I only found two options for creating custom playing cards in the bicycle quality/style that seemed legit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One: custom decks from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/custom-playing-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official bicycle website&lt;/a&gt;. Looks good to begin with, but I called the number for more info, and discovered that bicycle can not make only 1 or 2 decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zazzle.com/custom/playingcards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zazzle&lt;/a&gt; makes playing cards! Again looks good to begin with, but after starting the process it quickly became apparent that zazzle only allows customization of the back. I need more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first deck will need custom backs, jokers, royals, and tuck case. The second will need custom backs, all faces, and tuck case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, anyone know of another legit company? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I am a amateur magician, and for the cards to be of use they &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; have the feel of bicycle cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5282" LastEditorUserId="5282" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T06:21:05.850" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T05:08:14.850" Title="Where to buy bicycle quality custom playing cards" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11986" CreationDate="2013-05-16T03:48:24.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several that do small print runs. (I am sure there are many more.)But, for Bicycle quality cards, you would likely need to use Bicycle as your source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/playing-cards/playing-cards-54-designs-313&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ArtsCow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printerstudio.com/unique-ideas/custom-playing-cards.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Printstudio&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;theGameCrafter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.customizedplayingcards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;QPC&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T10:20:59.447" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T10:20:59.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11989" CreationDate="2013-05-16T13:37:44.203" Score="4" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are attacking in Illuminati and you're in the phase where players are spending Megabucks to aid or hinder the attack, is there a limit to how money can be spent to reduce the power of the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that, after all the modifiers for alignment, the power of my attack is 8. Can another player reduce the power to -2 by spending 10 Megabucks? If so, do I actually get to roll the dice, or does the attack not take place at all? Or are they limited to spending 6, which gives me at least a miniscule chance to succeed on the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T13:55:51.933" Title="Can the power of an attack be reduced below two?" Tags="|illuminati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11988" CreationDate="2013-05-16T15:49:30.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To succeed you need to roll the target number or less on two dice.  If the target number has been reduced to 1 (or less) then the roll is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't stated explicitly in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/illuminati/img/illuminati_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, but more importantly there are no limits placed on spending.  It is alluded to though, on page 5 in the &quot;Spending money to Attack &quot; section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For instance, if an attacker uses enough money&#xA;  and power to exceed the target’s resistance by 20, the&#xA;  defender would have to spend 20 MB to get the attacking&#xA;  roll back down to zero again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2013-05-18T13:55:51.933" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T13:55:51.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11990" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-16T15:59:47.177" Score="3" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing video games, I often prefer games that are easy to drop in and drop out of.  Games like Team Fortress 2 where players are always respawning so the new player isn't set back, especially if most people are ignoring the goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With board games I sometimes see two problems:  Sometimes the game stretches on longer than one player can afford or care for (I usually have a 1 hour rule for myself).  Sometimes the game has already been started and another prospective player shows up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these circumstances it would be nice if a game carried on even though players might start or stop playing at any time.  Are there any board games out there with good drop-in drop-out mechanics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2672" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:46:08.007" Title="Looking for games with drop-in drop-out mechanic" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-05-16T21:11:47.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11990" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:00:29.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fluxx and a few other social card games allow players to join or leave at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:00:29.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11990" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:20:07.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest Mansions of Madness. With one change to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules currently have the keeper draw threat for the number of investigators that started the game. This would have to be modified to be the number of players currently playing the game instead of investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way the threat accumulation would be accurate to the amount of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;other than that a new investigator could join in at any time because the game has a time limit and it is not dependent on the players still being around to complete, with the exception of the keeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror could also be dropped into and out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:20:07.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11990" CreationDate="2013-05-16T16:46:08.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coup you could just deal the new person 2 cards and start them with 3 cash, or just wait the few mins until the round is over and include them in the next one. The rounds are short enough that no-one will be waiting long to join.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T16:46:08.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="11995" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:19:40.117" Score="8" ViewCount="2034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few clarification questions regarding what happens after I use the activated ability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83850&quot;&gt;Dimir Doppelganger&lt;/a&gt; to target a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366469&quot;&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; that's sitting in a graveyard. For simplicity, I assume that the only card in play before the ability resolves is the Dimir Doppelganger, which has never used it's ability before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, am I correct in saying that the card I have on the battlefield after resolution, in effect, has the name &lt;code&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/code&gt;, is of the type &lt;code&gt;Legendary Creature - Shapeshifter&lt;/code&gt;, and has card text which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hexproof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature card is put into an opponent's graveyard from anywhere, you may have Lazav, Dimir Mastermind become a copy of that card except its name is still Lazav, Dimir Mastermind, it's legendary in addition to its other types, and it gains hexproof and this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1{U}{B}: Exile target creature card from a graveyard. Lazav, Dimir Mastermind becomes a copy of that card and gains this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this is correct, and I use the activated ability again to target another creature in a graveyard -- let's say &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=155&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; -- then the card I have in play is now named &lt;code&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/code&gt;, of type &lt;code&gt;Creature - Bear&lt;/code&gt; and has only the activated ability of the original doppelganger (losing hexproof and the triggered ability of Lazav.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, if I instead choose to use the triggered ability my doppel-Lazav in response to a creature entering an opponent's graveyard -- we can assume it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=155&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; again -- then my card now named &lt;code&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/code&gt;, of type &lt;code&gt;Legendary Creature - Bear&lt;/code&gt; and reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hexproof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature card is put into an opponent's graveyard from anywhere, you may have Lazav, Dimir Mastermind become a copy of that card except its name is still Lazav, Dimir Mastermind, it's legendary in addition to its other types, and it gains hexproof and this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5291" LastEditorUserId="5291" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T19:07:34.890" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T21:08:51.537" Title="Dimir Doppelganger becoming Lazav, Dimir Mastermind" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11994" CreationDate="2013-05-16T18:51:58.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your grizzly bear scenarios are either/or (and you're not doing one after another)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct. The card will come back as either a Lazav copy or a Doppleganger copy and it depends entirely on which card's copy ability you use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the ability itself (of either lazav or the doppleganger) that causes the copy to retain the previous abilities, because it uses the wording: &lt;code&gt;&quot;gains this ability.&quot;&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2013-05-16T21:08:51.537" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T21:08:51.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1686" CreationDate="2013-05-16T20:58:35.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I wouldn't call myself an expert, I have played a lot, and here are some of my thoughts on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Classic is the most simple of the three, and does not lend itself to defence, both players are rather open. For this reason, classic games tend to be short when the players know what they are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dynasty is my personal favorite. The defences of this setup are very tight. Players normally will have to attack from both the front and side. This results in long games, while players march up the side and get into position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, Imhotep! Imhotep opens a lot of options; the defences are good, but not too tight, and many types of pieces are scattered across the board. The end game is often a dance of hiding the opening in your defences long enough to close in on the enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I developed a fourth one a while back, mainly for use with the beam splitter, but still good without it, if I can find it somewhere around here, I will post it if you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you go, there you have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5282" LastActivityDate="2013-05-16T20:58:35.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8032" CreationDate="2013-05-17T01:01:59.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although there is quite a lot of luck, there's definitely strategy involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing probably a hundred games (at lunch time and mostly 2 player) we've noticed different play-styles. One of us tends to start off well but get bogged down. The other often starts slow but storms home at the end. This can't be put down to just luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The particular cards that are in play have to be analyzed to discover what will work best. This is what makes it a fun game (for us). trying to figure out what will work well &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, we played the Advanced variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="642" LastEditorUserId="642" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T00:52:26.347" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T00:52:26.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2013-05-17T20:25:27.170" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using paper clips works great! The little loopy bit can frame the numbers. They stay in place, but can easily be moved and removed. They don't damage the cardboard, and you can use plain silver ones, or get colored plastic coated paperclips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5298" LastActivityDate="2013-05-17T20:25:27.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="11999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9425" CreationDate="2013-05-18T21:18:48.590" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mountain would NOT have summoning sickness period because it specifically states that it becomes a 4/4 red elemental creature until end of turn. It's still a land. Therefor the mountain can't be a creature before that turn or after that turn. Also seeing as how it is still a land It doesn't have summoning sickness. Lands don't have summoning sickness. So you can still tap it for mana or attack. And if you activated his +1 on an opponents turn you can use it to block or tap to use the mana for an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5300" LastActivityDate="2013-05-18T21:18:48.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-18T22:56:44.047" Score="14" ViewCount="10272" Body="&lt;p&gt;Situation: one of my neighbors has a single resource card; I want to build something that needs two of that resource; my neighbor's card is the only way I have access to that resource (i.e., I have none, and my other neighbor has none). Can I pay my neighbor for 2 of that resource (i.e., double the price) even though s/he has only one card? Or am I simply unable to build the structure which requires 2 of that resource?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I want to build an Aqueduct, but only have a Stone Pit. My left neighbor has a Mine. My right neighbor has no stone. Can I pay my left neighbor 4 coins and get the 2 stones that I need? Or am I unable to build?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not clear to me from reading the official rules. All the rules state is, &quot;It is possible, during the same turn, to buy one or more resources from both neighboring cities.&quot; It does not clarify if the neighboring player must have 2 available stones in order for me to purchase two, or if one is sufficient.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5301" LastActivityDate="2022-07-22T17:43:48.933" Title="Commerce in Seven Wonders: possible to buy the same resource more than once in the same turn?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12000" CreationDate="2013-05-19T00:35:06.317" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/727636/buying-more-resources-than-your-neighbor-has&quot;&gt;The general consensus&lt;/a&gt; is that you cannot buy more than what they can produce:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If these resources are produced by a neighboring city...the player will be able to purchase the missing resources through commerce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One stone is produced by the neighboring city, but two stone are not, so you can't buy two stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T00:35:06.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12002" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-19T00:40:20.563" Score="0" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;RHO: 1C --&gt; LHO: 1S --&gt; RHO: 2D &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean 4-4 in clubs/diamonds, or 5-4 in clubs diamonds. Is it a reverse? (e.g.18+ pts?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming opponents play SAYC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-25T11:25:48.537" LastActivityDate="2019-04-25T11:25:48.537" Title="Interpreting bidding by partners" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12002" CreationDate="2013-05-19T03:10:45.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Definitely a reverse, say 15-16+ HCP + distributional values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promises 5+ clubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be a &quot;waiting reverse&quot; with only 3 diamonds to elicit more information from partner, with either 3 hearts or 6+ clubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point to a &quot;waiting reverse&quot; is when opener has multiple options for a non-ideal bid, and wishes to set the denomination &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; responder rebids. It should be done only in a suit below 2 of responder's suit, unless opener is stronger than a minimum reverse. As noted it is often done with 3 of responder's suit to see if responder can rebid it. It often implies slam interest, as the extra information communicated may be of more use to the defence in merely a game contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a minimum reverse, opener must be able to retreat to either 3 of responder's suit or 3NT if the reverse suit is raised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T03:10:45.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12771" CreationDate="2013-05-19T07:20:50.733" Score="6" ViewCount="1836" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard Diplomacy game can often end up locked in a stalemate, with one player pushing for 18 territories, and two or more defenders trying to stop them.  There are already many articles about this, including a useful &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/Online/StalematesAtoY/visual.htm&quot;&gt;visual index to stalemate positions&lt;/a&gt;.  However, I have so far failed to find a Diplomacy map that was designed to prevent stalemates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly is it even possible to have such a map using the standard rules?  Maybe there is logical reasoning that proves that a stalemateless board does not exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is possible, has it already been done?  Does the lack of stalemate lines make the game more dynamic, or does it mean players have to be more edgy about attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is not possible to create such a map, is there a variant that avoids stalemates with some other change to the rules?  In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplomacy-archive.com/resources/strategy/articles/stalemate_curse.htm&quot;&gt;one of the articles&lt;/a&gt; I saw it mentioned that &quot;it is difficult to see&quot; how certain variants could allow stalemates, but have any variants been designed with this goal in mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T02:45:41.573" Title="Is there a Diplomacy variant that does not contain stalemate lines?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12006" CreationDate="2013-05-19T18:09:53.863" Score="4" ViewCount="3965" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aetherling&quot;&gt;Aetherling&lt;/a&gt;. After it deals damage I blink it out. When it returns at my end step, does it come back untapped and ready to block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1847" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-20T19:38:32.933" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T07:25:37.953" Title="Does an exiled Aetherling come back into play untapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12005" CreationDate="2013-05-19T18:58:18.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, when Aetherling returns to the battlefield, it's considered a new permanent, so it enters the battlefield without remembering that it was tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&#xA;  There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;none of the exceptions apply here&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2013-05-19T18:58:18.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12014" CreationDate="2013-05-19T23:59:21.453" Score="3" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I've got an EDH deck featuring &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/lw/en/252.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wort, Boggart Auntie&lt;/a&gt; as my General. I really want to exploit her ability for all it's worth, so I've been looking for different goblins that have &quot;Enters the Battlefield&quot; effects and/or sacrifice effects. I can across two with Echo that seem like they'd work really well: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/evg/en/45.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mogg War Marshal&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pc/en/107.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stingscourger&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I cast Mogg War Marshal &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; turn and that I have Wort in play. During my upkeep, can I decline Mogg War Marshal's Echo cost, sending it to the graveyard and then retrieve it with Wort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T23:17:39.913" Title="Wort, Boggart Auntie and Goblins with Echo" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2013-05-20T06:03:54.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One variant that I've seen used was to allow real-world bribery. That is, the lone player offering real cash money to one or two players to let them win. (This bought me dinner more than once.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another is to set a time limit; at the time limit, the player closest to victory is declared the winner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T06:03:54.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12000" CreationDate="2013-05-20T11:23:37.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may only construct structures/wonder stages if you can produce the required resources in their cost, or your adjacent opponents have the missing resources you require (and you have the coins necessary to purchase those goods).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_QUICKRULES_US_WHITE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are probably not as specific as they should be, but you can glean the correct answer by looking at the examples given. Unless a structure is free, you must have the resouces to build it and/or the coins necessary to buy the resources from your neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards have a resource cost. To construct them, the player must produce the corresponding resources AND/OR buy them from one of his or her two neighboring cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules then give an example of the Giza board, its current production, and the fact that it cannot build the Aquaduct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resources of a city are produced by its Wonder board, its brown cards, its gray cards, and some yellow cards. To build a structure, a player’s city must produce the resources indicated on its card. Example : &lt;strong&gt;Giza produces 2 Stones&lt;/strong&gt;, 1 Clay, 1 Ore, 1 Papyrus and 1 Textile :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;its player cannot build the Aqueduct (cost : 3 Stones) as his city only produces two of the three stones required by that structure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is clear that since Giza requires 3 Stone to build the Aquaduct and cannot build it, but it would be quite odd if its neighbor's could buy 3 stone from Giza and build it themselves. This is further driven home buy the split '/' resource icon explanation on the last page of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_QUICKRULES_US_WHITE.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quick Rules&lt;/a&gt; or the regular rules tells you that only one of the pictured resources is available to you and your neighboring cities, not both. As well as the double resource icon providing two of the pictured resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the card produces one of the two pictured raw resources each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification : the player can use one OR the other resource to build a structure (or a wonder phase) &lt;strong&gt;but NOT both in a given turn. Neighboring players may purchase either, regardless of what the owner chooses to produce.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, the last 2 Stone example from the rules, showing that both neighboring cities can buy her 2 stones and she can also use the same 2 stones in the same turn. This indicates that the resources a city has a available is the maximum that they can produce, and that both neighbors can buy 0, 1, or 2 stone the same turn the that the city owner uses 0, 1, or 2 stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example B:&lt;/strong&gt; during a game turn, both neighboring cities buy from her 2 Stones for a total of 8 coins (2 per resource). In the same turn, she can build a Library (cost : 2 Stones + 1 Textile) thanks to her resources, even though she has sold them to her neighboring cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T11:23:37.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-20T17:14:30.033" Score="7" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume I want to run a game tournament with 1-on-1 games (think chess) that have (for simplicity) just win or lose as the outcome and I need a way to rank the players. Formally speaking, I want a function that takes a list of &lt;em&gt;(player1, player2, who_won)&lt;/em&gt; triples and returns a ranking of players, e.g. by attributing each of them a number (list of &lt;em&gt;(player, score)&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the tournament is going to be informal and unorganized, I cannot in any way influence who plays against whom when. The scoring system I am looking for should have these properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The order of games should not matter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If two (or more) players keep playing against each other over and over, with the same winning probabilities, the scores should not change (or not change much, e.g. converge).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If necessary, new games can affect the scores of all people, and calculations might need a computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What scoring systems fulfil this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2022-05-22T06:39:00.453" LastActivityDate="2022-05-22T07:17:02.030" Title="1-on-1 unorganized tournament scoring system" Tags="|scoring|statistics|tournament|rank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12012" CreationDate="2013-05-20T18:36:21.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try &lt;a href=&quot;http://remi.coulom.free.fr/WHR/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, it's a system called Whole-History Rating. From the abstract:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whole-History Rating (WHR) is a new method to estimate the&#xA;  time-varying strengths of players involved in paired comparisons. Like&#xA;  many variations of the Elo rating system, the whole-history approach&#xA;  is based on the dynamic Bradley-Terry model. But, instead of using&#xA;  incremental approximations, WHR directly computes the exact maximum a&#xA;  posteriori over the whole rating history of all players. This&#xA;  additional accuracy comes at a higher computational cost than&#xA;  traditional methods, but computation is still fast enough to be easily&#xA;  applied in real time to large-scale game servers (a new game is added&#xA;  in less than 0.001 second). Experiments demonstrate that, in&#xA;  comparison to Elo, Glicko, TrueSkill, and decayed-history algorithms,&#xA;  WHR produces better predictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's been used rather successfully by a game I play called &lt;a href=&quot;http://arimaa.com/arimaa/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arimaa&lt;/a&gt;. For a tournament score, rather than a player skill rating, you will probably want to treat all games as being played simultaneously, as opposed to allowing the ratio to fluctuate over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's source code you're after, you may find this &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/goshrine/whole_history_rating&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pure Ruby implementation&lt;/a&gt; helpful.  It can support any two player game, as long as the outcome is a simple win/loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5045" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T16:01:08.433" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T16:01:08.433" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12008" CreationDate="2013-05-20T23:17:39.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a triggered ability has a target, you have to choose the target when it goes on the stack.  The target has to be valid both when the ability triggers, and when it resolves.  From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1d A triggered ability is targeted if it identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],” where the&#xA;  “something” is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone. The&#xA;  target(s) are chosen as the ability is put on the stack; see rule&#xA;  603.3d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get to choose the order in which the triggers go on the stack.  But in this case, that won't help you.  Wort's trigger always happens before Marshall's trigger resolves.  So when Wort's trigger goes on the stack, the Marshall is not yet in the graveyard.  So it is not a valid target for Wort's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastActivityDate="2013-05-20T23:17:39.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-21T13:35:11.090" Score="6" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which bidding system is assumed by default at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridge Base Online&lt;/a&gt; (for humans)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked in chat several times in different games (ten times I think) and nobody answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridge_Base_Basic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridge base basic&lt;/a&gt;? Or maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_American_Yellow_Card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;YACL&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T16:27:04.430" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T17:28:36.997" Title="Which bidding system is assumed by default at BBO?" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-21T13:46:56.007" Score="12" ViewCount="1961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fully understand and agree with the rule &quot;do not communicate in illegal ways&quot; (pose, tone of voice, etc), but I don't quite understand the point in requiring the disclosure of one's bidding system to one's opponents. What does this aim to achieve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True disclosure sounds hard to achieve in practice. Partners know each other's habits, and as a result bidding communication still has &quot;hidden&quot; parts - it is just not possible to describe &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; habit to opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This raises a related question. Suppose the bidding system should be disclosed. Why not then require only a single bidding system for all players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T16:25:44.753" LastActivityDate="2019-12-19T04:54:25.573" Title="What is the point in disclosure of the bidding system to opponents?" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12017" CreationDate="2013-05-21T15:53:02.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine the opportunities for abuse.  Without a disclosure rule, partners can make up any system they want and thereby communicate in illegal ways.  There's really no difference to the other players between &quot;qble and Monica's private bidding system that we won't disclose&quot; and conducting the conversation in Swahili; either way it's obfuscating information that should be available to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am neither a bridge player (my husband is) nor a speaker of Swahili, just in case that matters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T15:53:02.187" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-21T16:43:35.263" Score="16" ViewCount="105295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everywhere I read manuals it focuses my options as a player. I can't figure out if the dealer knows his hidden card or not? Of course, when dealer has 10 or Ace showing, he checks if he's got a blackjack, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the dealer's options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5315" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T17:21:12.890" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T19:26:19.853" Title="What are a blackjack dealer's options?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12019" CreationDate="2013-05-21T17:09:49.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealer knows what both of his cards are. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casino play, the dealer has no options. He always has to hit values below 16/17 (the exact number varies by casino), and has to stay when his cards are higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In non-casino play, often the dealer is just another player and has the same options as you. This is not really blackjack and will not use the same strategies as casino blackjack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-05-21T18:19:05.450" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T18:19:05.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12019" CreationDate="2013-05-21T17:10:34.600" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blackjack dealers have no options for the in-game decisions of whether to hit or stay; they follow a strict algorithm that will depend on the casino. The dealer waits until the players have exercised all their options, then the dealer reveals their hidden card and hits until they have at least 17 (most common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only variation I'm familiar with is a rule where the dealer will hit a &lt;em&gt;soft 17&lt;/em&gt; (any 17 with an Ace taking the value 11--denoted &amp;quot;H17&amp;quot; for Hit 17, as opposed to &amp;quot;S17&amp;quot; for Stand 17), but this is not the dealer's choice, it will be determined by the casino. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack#Rules_of_play_at_casinos&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;According to Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, this rule will generally be printed on the table if it is being used, and it hurts players. Wikipedia phrases it the other direction: going from H17 to S17. &lt;em&gt;'Substituting an &amp;quot;H17&amp;quot; rule with an &amp;quot;S17&amp;quot; rule in a game benefits the player, decreasing the house edge by about 0.2%'&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See @NiceVerAz's answer below for a nice explanation of &amp;quot;meta-game&amp;quot; options that the dealer does control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2021-09-30T19:26:19.853" LastActivityDate="2021-09-30T19:26:19.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2013-05-21T18:29:51.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play via IRC in #wolfgame on the Freenode network.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="373" LastActivityDate="2013-05-21T18:29:51.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12017" CreationDate="2013-05-22T00:13:45.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To address the second question - where would new bidding systems come from if all players were required to play the same system? How would one enforce that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T00:13:45.143" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12017" CreationDate="2013-05-22T00:57:28.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a &quot;sporting&quot; rule as much as anything else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponents need to be given an opportunity to learn your bidding system. Some will take it, and some won't. But you can't have a situation where the opponents had &quot;no chance&quot; at understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T00:57:28.593" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-22T01:03:42.577" Score="11" ViewCount="6191" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best bidding system which can be used for teaching beginners (who never played bridge before)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that showing any complicated system, or asking to learn some long manual would burn all &quot;initial interest&quot;. I think it is better to start with real game, and after playing some time (if interest would not be extinguished), having real game experience, beginners would feel natural need by themselfs to improve bidding system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can develop some very simple system, but I am curious if there is any standard simple system for learning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: After several answers I have to put additional emphasize on what I am trying to achieve. This question is not about mastering Bridge skill from very novice to beginner, but it is about introduction for players who never played bridge (though played some simpler trick-taking games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot imagine how I supposed to teach beginners rules, game mechanics + material of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12033/5314&quot;&gt;&quot;first 10 chapters in Commonsense Bidding&quot;&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12031/5314&quot;&gt;Stayman and Blackwood&lt;/a&gt; within 20 minutes just to have first time game. That would take hours without any gaming, and it would become boring and would kill any &quot;initial interest&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just imagine: &quot;- Guys, let's play Bridge, it is fun and interesting game. But before playing you have to sit down and listen two hours lecture.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I need is very simple (&lt;strong&gt;extremly simple&lt;/strong&gt;) bidding system, where everything is natural, without any artifical bids. Again, I can develop some very simple system, but I am curious if there is any such standard simple system &lt;strong&gt;for learning game play first time&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-11T17:54:11.543" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T17:54:11.543" Title="Simplest bidding system for introduction into bridge" Tags="|bridge|bidding|teaching|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2013-05-22T01:11:30.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've considered playing diplomacy with the 35th supply center to make an odd number. But haven't been able to persuade others to play with this variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would be Egypt. It's not on the &quot;official&quot; map but it can be &quot;inferred&quot; (or extrapolated) as being in the southeast corner of the board, between Syria and Libya (with the latter being next to Tunis), and bounded by sea by the Eastern Mediterranean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, it would open up the game by creating another route to and from the eastern Mediterranean. It would give life to the so-called Lepanto opening (Italy and Austria-Hungary vs. Turkey), making the game more fun for the Italy and Austria-Hungary players, otherwise the two most difficult and least fun countries to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T01:11:30.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9572" CreationDate="2013-05-22T01:24:42.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, a fleet that exists in a &quot;square&quot; can't be dislodged by the attack of a single fleet. But a fleet under attack in a square is prevented from supporting ANOTHER fleet.&#xA;Without help, the fleet in the MidAtlantic Ocean can't dislodge a hostile fleet in the English channel on convoy duty. But if that fleet were supporting say, an allied fleet in the North Sea, the attack from the Midatlantic would &quot;cut&quot; the North Sea support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, the fleet in the Irish sea can't dislodge the enemy fleet in the Midatlantic ocean. At least not without the help of the fleet in the English Channel. But then THAT fleet could not conduct convoy duty on the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T01:24:42.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-22T01:45:57.510" Score="4" ViewCount="1438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blackjack basic strategy makes the assumption that the player is playing independently, with one person's decision to hit/stand having no affect on another player's decision to hit/stand.  If the results of every single hand were independent from each other, then there would be no way to improve upon basic strategy and gain a positive expected return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blackjack hands, however, are not independent events.  Card counting takes advantage of the fact that the next hand is not independent of previous hands, due to the limited number of decks in the shoe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few days ago, I realized that there might be another way to gain an advantage by using the fact that the results for individual players during a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; round are not independent of each other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, most players will win when the dealer has a weak hand, and most players will lose when the dealer has a strong hand. Also, one player's cards reveal information about the probable outcome for both other player's hands and the dealer's hands for that particular round (even when there is a continuous shuffle machine being used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If player A and player B have expected returns that are not independent of each other, is there a way for them to work together to alter their strategy in a way as to decrease the house edge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5317" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T20:43:00.730" Title="Is it possible for players to gain an advantage from colluding in blackjack?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-05-22T02:03:04.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play 4-card majors, with just Stayman and Blackwood as conventions, and jumps stronger than non-jumps. Any old books by Goren you can find at a used book store will serve as texts. When your players get a little better, show them &lt;strong&gt;Five Weeks to Winning Bridge&lt;/strong&gt; by Sheinwold. Then let them loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, Edgar Kaplan's &lt;em&gt;Bridge for Dummies&lt;/em&gt; is a good modern introduction to the game by one of the best bridge writers of the 20th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Given your time constraint, and the desire to introduce Bridge (which I applaud), why not try Auction Bridge instead of Contract? There is still a dummy to allow the increased precision of declarer and defending card play which that allows, and the selection of trump by the partnerships, but the points are simply for how many tricks are taken, not o whether that number of tricks was contracted for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T14:53:09.393" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T14:53:09.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12030" CreationDate="2013-05-22T02:25:49.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a loose sense, players can collaborate by signaling each other their hole card when the deal is one up one down. this allows far better optimization by almost doubling the known number of cards for the sharp who counts. Especially true if one or more goes for small bets and lots of draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more cards are known to a sharp, the better he's able to account the odds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that signaling, if caught, is potentially grounds for removal from the facility and forfeiture of any chips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T02:25:49.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-05-22T04:09:18.557" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 sections to my answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to get up and running in 20 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next steps to progress from the 20 minute version to solid Bridge beginner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to get up and running in 20 minutes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simply not possible to play the full game of bridge itself after 20 minutes in a way that satisfies or even makes any sense. However, one can make use of a Gateway game which is similar to bridge to get such a quick start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spades is a terrific gateway to bridge. Apart from lack of dummy, trick taking play is identical to bridge. No Trump is not an option There is only one possible trump suit: spades. Eliminating choice in suits vastly simplifies bidding - you simply call out the number of tricks you think you can take. To make it feel closer to bridge, you could eliminate the &quot;nil&quot; bid and sandbags. Or you could keep them in as they keep the game more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of which spades rules you use, the play of the hand feels similar to bridge (though not identical due to no dummy, different scoring incentives, and much less information exchanged during bidding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I taught my son to play Spades when he was 5, and a few months later taught him beginner level bridge, as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Next steps to progress from the 20 minute version to solid Bridge beginner&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you've played a number of spades hands, you now have a good introductory feel for the play of Bridge hands. It's time to move on to the more time-consuming part for beginners: bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it's simplest to learn the most popular system in your area, for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There will be ample learning materials.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learning materials will have different levels and you can start at the beginner level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most bridge players will know it even if they don't play it - so you can play other players in your area and they will usually by happy to help you learn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will be able to understand a substantial portion of the bidding of bridge players in your area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bridge learning software tends to do a good job of giving you practice hands for the most popular systems.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In USA, the most popular system is currently Standard American (5-card majors). It is so popular and well known in USA that at tournaments there is something called &quot;Standard American Yellow Card&quot; which is often used when two strangers are paired with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I quite liked the pair of books I used to learn Standard American, 5-card majors, and the other most common techniques and conventions associated with it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commonsense Bidding by William S. Root&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modern Bridge Conventions by William S. Root &amp;amp; Richard Pavlicek&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A real strength of this pair of books is how well structured it is for beginners. You can start by trying to master the first 10 chapters in Commonsense Bidding (and chapter 17) and that would be a very reasonable place to stop to enjoy a beginner level of bridge. This is exactly what I taught to my son when he was 5 (he did not read the books - I explained everything to him over the course of a few weeks while we played at least a few minutes every day). If you want to gradually learn more you can continue progressing through that book and then start on the 2nd book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A real key to learning bidding that I wish I had known when I started is to start with just a very small number of the most common bidding techniques and conventions that will cover perhaps 60% or 70% of hands and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6267/why-are-beginning-to-intermediate-bridge-players-told-to-delay-learning-how-to-b&quot;&gt;concentrate on learning those well before going on to techniques and conventions that cover less common hands.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T13:57:00.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-05-22T11:01:56.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;system&lt;/em&gt; is proper use of conventions.  Genuine beginners don't need any conventions, so  don't worry about what system to use. Just start with &quot;If you have 13 points, bid your longest suit, or the stronger of 2 equal&quot; and a few similar rules. (As Joe implied, use the weak or strong no-trump that is common in your area; neither is intrinsically more natural). After a while, the better pupils will start to ask questions like &quot;Is it better to bid 1NT or 1 Spade with a four-card suit?&quot; (cue explanation of the difference between Standard American and other systems) or perhaps a slam hand will come up so you can demonstrate why it is important to know how many aces your partner has.  Most people learn better when they can see the reason for the lesson;  this goes double for using a convention (or discarding it; half the people at my club think Jacoby transfers are a waste of bidding space, but still understand what is meant when opponents use them).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T11:01:56.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-22T13:17:02.087" Score="4" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the name of a board game from the 80's or 90's that was made up of yellow bricks in a small table that you had to tap out with a small red pick or hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5319" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-05-22T13:24:14.633" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T20:21:52.967" Title="What is this brick-based board game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12035" CreationDate="2013-05-22T13:30:45.103" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not yellow, but that sounds like Don't Break the Ice: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00000IVZJ&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Hasbro-4784-Dont-Break-the/dp/B00000IVZJ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These variations have yellow tiles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Summ Bumm (Spielkiste Bee edition)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1283724/dont-break-the-ice&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1283724/dont-break-the-ice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wer andern eine Grube klopft (German First edition, 1976)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1070084/dont-break-the-ice&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1070084/dont-break-the-ice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-24T00:04:19.880" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T00:04:19.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12030" CreationDate="2013-05-22T16:30:47.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A way for colluders to gain an advantage in blackjack is the &quot;Big Player&quot; tactic, discussed in my answer to this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11479/why-is-card-counting-considered-illegal-in-blackjack&quot;&gt;Why is card counting considered illegal in Blackjack?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in one of his &quot;Bringing Down the House&quot; series of books, Ben Mezrich talked about how a skilled player would insert the &quot;cut&quot; (and shown) card at exactly a particular place in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on whether they wanted the dealer to draw or &quot;miss&quot; the card, the players would either draw or stand on the round that the particular cut card was dealt. That gave the players a ONE HAND advantage that was apparently enough to more than cancel out the house advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-05-22T16:30:47.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12043" CreationDate="2013-05-24T08:00:15.337" Score="9" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/248e&quot;&gt;It has been announced&lt;/a&gt;, among other changes, that you are allowed to increase the number of cards in your deck beyond 60 while side boarding. Meaning you can bring 5 cards in and not have to take 5 cards out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are decks and match ups where some cards are just bad, and you want to take them out (e.g. removal against legacy storm combo). Some match ups you have plenty of sweet cards in your deck, you just have sweet cards in your sideboard too. In this situation, it can be very difficult to decide which cards are &quot;least relevant&quot; to the matchup, to cut in favour of the sideboard cards which have a much bigger impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the rules change, are we better off trying to keep our deck count to 60 wherever possible? or should the conventional wisdom be &quot;cut the bad cards, bring in the good cards&quot; and resultant card count being an afterthought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-06-11T15:59:22.683" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T15:59:22.683" Title="Should we take good cards out for better cards while sideboarding (magic 2014 rules update)?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3167" CreationDate="2013-05-24T08:49:36.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's worth adding that there are two versions of &lt;strong&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharaoh&lt;/strong&gt;. The original release was an excellent addition, as it added the highly thematic exhibit card class. However it suffers from dilution in an all-in game, as the chances to draw encounter which refer to the Exhibit items severely diminish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The revised version of Curse of the Dark Pharaoh adds a special encounter to the streets and will not suffer from dilution. It's an excellent purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More significantly, though, you should not overlook the possibility of using fan created content in your Arkham Horror game. Whilst there are plenty of articles of questionable quality, there are also a good number of custom expansions which add a great deal to the game and are of quality at least equal to anything that FFG has produced. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1035042/arkham-archive-fan-created-content&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; contains links to the best of them, but for my money you should try The Door To Saturn, Lovecraft Country Horror or the Arkham Nightmare as your first experience of fan created content.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5325" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-02-03T15:45:55.900" LastActivityDate="2017-02-03T15:45:55.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12040" CreationDate="2013-05-24T09:05:08.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the same reasoning as when constructing a deck can be used, i.e. if some cards are better than others, reducing the number of cards in the deck makes it more likely to draw the better cards.&#xA;In the sideboarding case, we have the additional problem of ensuring a reasonable land/spell ratio, which means that just adding cards to the deck is unlikely to be optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in some cases it might be beneficial to change the mana balance of the deck (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7366/when-should-you-side-lands-in-and-out&quot;&gt;When should you side lands in and out?&lt;/a&gt;). It could also be argued that in some cases if you have cards that search for other cards, that the added flexibility of an extra cards outweighs the reduced consistency. In such cases it might make sense to add one or two cards without removing any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T09:05:08.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12040" CreationDate="2013-05-24T09:18:22.847" Score="22" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Short answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  You should take cards out to keep a 60 card deck size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Medium answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  It's &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; legal to play more than 60 cards.  But when you design a deck, you don't - you keep it to 60 as much as possible.  When you sideboard, you're redesigning your deck on the fly - and the same reasons that you kept it to 60 cards in the first place still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Long answer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a typical game (some highly specialised graveyard decks aside), you will only ever hold in hand and play a fraction of your deck - even in a game that goes to 13 turns (possible in casual but pretty unlikely in constructed), you will typically only have drawn 20 of your 60 cards - around a third of your deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two thirds, no matter how awesome the cards are, did you no good whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Magic is won on the draw.  (After all, you win games not because you had great cards &lt;em&gt;in your deck&lt;/em&gt; but because you had great cards &lt;em&gt;on the battlefield&lt;/em&gt;.)  If you've designed the deck properly, it's based around a winning strategy and some key cards that support that.  You want to have as great a chance of drawing those winning cards as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mathematics of card draw and distribution for Magic have been extensively studied.  (There's a pretty good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kibble.net/magic/magic10.php&quot;&gt;article on the mathematics of card draw&lt;/a&gt; available.)  And one of the reasons for the 60-card minimum is that it makes your deck unpredictable.  Even if you have 4 of a key card in the deck, your chance to see one in the opening hand is just under 40%, and even by turn ten your chance is only 71.5%.  (And if you haven't drawn it by turn ten, you're probably never going to play it.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the deck size by only one card - to 61 cards - immediately takes about 1% off both those chances.  So why harm your odds like that?  If the new card is better for your strategy than the increased odds of drawing one that you have four of, your should remove one of those four.  And if not, then you shouldn't be adding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A telling point is that all of the top players field exactly 60 card decks.  They don't have to; constructed rules permit more.  They choose to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the top players will &lt;i&gt;occasionally&lt;/i&gt; play a 61 card deck.  They do this to protect against decking and to subtly adjust their probabilities.  But you can believe they plan for &lt;em&gt;ages&lt;/em&gt; while considering the benefits of that 61st card, and they don't hesitate to remove it.  If you're still at a level where you're asking this, you probably shouldn't try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: &lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  Keep to 60 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T09:18:22.847" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-05-24T13:53:42.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/pdf/acol_foundationlevel_sysfile_2006.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Standard English Acol&lt;/a&gt; (pdf) is the system commonly used to teach beginners in the UK. Most bids are natural, it's got 4-card majors and strong 2 bids. To start with, you could ignore any conventions like Stayman or Blackwood and treat 2 clubs as a natural strong 2. These elements can be introduced at a later date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting up and running within 20 minutes is ambitious (you could easily spend that long explaining the rules and the scoring), but might be do-able if you're teaching people who are experienced with other whist-based games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T13:53:42.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12040" CreationDate="2013-05-24T15:13:32.430" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12043/1910&quot;&gt;Tynam's answer&lt;/a&gt; covers the general case very well: &lt;strong&gt;the minimal deck size is optimal, and there are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; few good reasons to deviate from that&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, here are some examples of &lt;strong&gt;corner cases&lt;/strong&gt; where you may legitimately want to deviate from making one-for-one substitutions when you sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Storm-style combo decks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike a more &quot;traditional&quot; two- or three- card combo deck, storm-style decks are essentially using every card in the deck as part of their combo. Good storm decks have a carefully-tuned ratio of cantrips, rituals, and kill cards, to avoid &quot;fizzling&quot; when they go off as much as possible (in the hands of a practiced pilot, at least). Their maindeck configurations tend to be very aggressive, with only a few slots set aside for disruption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there will be some occasions when you'll want to bring a card into a storm deck without taking anything out, going to 61-14 post-board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When your plan in game 2 is to still go off as fast as possible, but you really want another hate card of some sort (e.g. you runs three &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThoughtseize%5d&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt; as your only maindeck combo-protection, with a fourth in the sideboard), &lt;strong&gt;going to 61-14 lets you bring in that extra card without messing up the ratios of the proactive part of your deck as much as a direct one-for-one substitution would&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Against a slow deck with lots of disruption, like traditional control, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/home/pvs-playhouse-combo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the typical storm deck strategy is to avoid going off until you have a hand that can survive having a few of your cards countered&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Since you're planning to go off much later than normal, it's reasonable to bring in a land or two to help hit your later land drops&lt;/strong&gt;. If your deck deck has lots of fetchlands, they'll thin your deck out enough to counteract the extra land cards you've put in. Make sure those extra lands are really worth putting in your sideboard in the first place, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/7368/1910&quot;&gt;&quot;When should you side lands in and out?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; addressed trying to hit extra land drops in control mirrors. Note that there you are more likely to be making one-for-one substitutions, since your deck has a lot of reactive cards that are fairly weak against another control deck; whereas here your deck is mostly dedicated to your storm combo.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these are basically about fine-tuning your percentages &amp;mdash; how do I improve the chance of X while not screwing up Y &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt;? I don't see a strong case for going above 61-62 cards in this deck, though, because at that point you really ought to just cut a couple of your combo cards instead, and even these scenarios aren't going to apply to all storm decks or all matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBattle%20of%20Wits%5d&quot;&gt;Battle of Wits&lt;/a&gt; decks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're playing a Battle of Wits deck, you've already abandoned any reasonable chance of drawing a key card naturally. In exchange, you gain access to a hard-to-disrupt win condition and the ability to just maindeck the kinds of silver bullets a normal deck would only play in its sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the M14 sideboard rules change, the sideboard of a Battle of Wits deck was often considered perfunctory. You're already playing 230-250 card deck with a ton of tutors and card-filtering cards &amp;mdash; what exactly do you want to put in your sideboard? Thus, &lt;strong&gt;in this kind of oversized deck, it's quite reasonable to have an empty or mostly-empty sideboard and use it as a dumping ground for the cards you don't want to be playing in game 2 and 3&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shrinking your deck in this fashion is most effective against aggro and combo decks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because they tend to have one definite plan for how to win the game, it's usually very clear which cards in your deck can be removed safely. (Watch out for transforming combo decks, though.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have the luxury of time to sculpt your hand and tutor for stuff. So your dead cards are more of a liability as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To win off of BoW, you need 200 cards left in your library after you stick it. Aggro and combo opponents are unlikely to have a lot of answers to your BoW, so you can stick in earlier and the first one you play is likely to be a game-winner. In contrast, against a deck with strong disruption, you're likely have gone through more of your deck by the time you stick a BoW.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T17:03:37.497" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-05-24T18:22:18.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;MiniBridge&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I should start without any bidding at all, with gateway game like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12033/5314&quot;&gt;Joe Golton suggested&lt;/a&gt;. I have found game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minibridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MiniBridge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; - it is literarly &quot;Bridge without bidding&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of &lt;strong&gt;READY&lt;/strong&gt; material for MiniBridge - for example look at links on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Minibridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wiki&lt;/a&gt;, or at this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nofearbridge.co.uk/beginners_booklet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;booklet&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nofearbridge.co.uk/minibridge/activities.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interactive description&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-05-24T18:22:18.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6701" CreationDate="2013-05-25T03:18:43.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility for 32 points is if both players hold 6 6 7 7 and you are the dealer. First player plays 7, you play 7 for 2, they play 7 for 6, you play 7 for 12 and a go. 15. Then all the 6s get played for another 15 points. The extra 2 points being if a jack is flipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5328" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T03:18:43.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-05-25T21:08:32.180" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once developed a &quot;system&quot; that is not official, but may meet your needs. It's based on what I call &quot;levels,&quot; for opening and responding hands. The level of the opening hand dictates the opening bid, and the sum of the levels of the opening and responding hand dictates the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;level one&quot; opening hand is one that can easily support a one level bid BY DEFINITION. That is your standard opening hand with a five card trump suit, and at least 12-13 high card points. Then bid one of the five card suit. If you have only four card suits, I would pass 12, 13, and even 14 point hands; I think they're too hard for beginners to handle. A 15-17 point hand with a four card suit would be a level one hand; I'd bid the best four card suit, or 1NT. I'd do the same with stronger hands (18+), but bid more aggressively with these stronger hands if partner responds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opposite the above opener, a level 1 RESPONSE hand is 6-9 high card points. With this kind of a hand, I would bid ONE a higher four card suit than the opener's or 1NT. If I have those 6-9 points, and three cards in the opener's suit, I'd raise to TWO of his suit. Opposite his five cards, we'd have an eight card fit, and about 19-23 high card points, enough for two of the partnership's best suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to opener. With a level one opening hand, I would rebid ONLY at the one level if there is no suit agreement (e.g. 1NT), raise to two of responder's suit if I have four opposite his four (eight in total), otherwise I would pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a level TWO opening hand (at least 15-17 high card points) I would rebid one level higher than with a level one hand; that is, raise his suit to three with four cards, since there is a fit, or rebid my suit or a new suit at the two level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a level three opening hand (18+ high card points) opposite a response, I would rebid   three no trump (game) or raise his response to the four level (game if in an a major suit) if I have four trumps. That's because the sum of level my 3 and his level 1 is four. Otherwise I would bid cautiously if there is an apparent misfit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If responder has a level two response of 10-12 points, he should bid his best four card suit at the TWO level to alert the opener to the extra values. With 13-15 points for a level three response, the responder should bid THREE of his best suit. (After this, the opener should be able to determine the appropriate level, by adding his level to the responder's level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If responder has 10-12 points and FOUR card of the opener's suit, he should skip the above, and bid THREE of the opener's suit. This is forcing to four of the opener's suit (game if a major).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a simplified model for beginners that spares you a lot of the complexity of &quot;in between&quot; hands. Hope it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T21:08:32.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6267" CreationDate="2013-05-25T23:28:03.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The unusual types of hands require &quot;judgment,&quot; and an intuitive feel for what is right. Those are things that beginning players lack, by definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way of teaching such hands to beginners is by &quot;rote,&quot; because the logic will not be obvious. That will only confuse a beginner, who is being taught things for which the logic is obvious. If teaching certain types of hands would only create that kind of confusion, it's better not to teach it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or put another way, for those hands, by the time you could teach someone how to bid them, that person might possibly have figured out a solution on their own; that's how &quot;advanced&quot; some hands are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-05-25T23:28:03.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2013-05-26T18:24:06.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a rule variant that I believe would prevent long-term stalemates:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After two full years (Spring-Fall-Build; Spring-Fall-Build)) of&#xA;  stalemate, the weakest country on the board collapses into civil&#xA;  disorder and the controlling player receives that finishing position.&#xA;  Repeat as often as necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially that is what happened to the Russian and Ottoman empires in WWI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T18:24:06.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="524" CreationDate="2013-05-26T23:31:48.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big blue fan too, and I have a combo of creatues and instants/sorceries/enchantments. I would lay low on the artifacts, even though most say they are good in blue decks. If you want merfolk, I would try adding x3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Merfolk%20Sovereign&quot;&gt;Merfolk Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; and maybe a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deepchannel%20Mentor&quot;&gt;Deepchannel Mentor&lt;/a&gt;. Also throw in a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Talrand%2C%20Sky%20Summoner&quot;&gt;Talrand, Sky Summoner&lt;/a&gt;. You should have some counter-spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; to hold off till you get a powerhouse like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guile&quot;&gt;Guile&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frost%20Titan&quot;&gt;Frost Titan&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphinx%20of%20Magosi&quot;&gt;Sphinx of Magosi&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5333" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-05-27T16:28:40.913" LastActivityDate="2013-05-27T16:28:40.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2013-05-26T23:45:21.090" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;it might not cost much.  Maybe, you could buy 3 booster packs for 45 cards. Then, go to a random comic store, and buy a bunch of basic lands. then, you could have a ok 45-75 card deck. then go to a few fnm(friday night magic)s, and trade. once you have a decent deck, I might buy a pack depending on what colors your deck focuses on. In total it would cost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                               3x$3+ $9 for boosters&#xA;                                     $1 dollor on basic lands (about)&#xA;                                     $10 for the pack&#xA;                               = $20 for everything&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5333" LastActivityDate="2013-05-26T23:45:21.090" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-26T23:47:42.120" Score="3" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner opened with 2C -- I responded with 2D (I have 2 pts)-- Partner responded with 3C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the rebid 3C by partner forcing me to bid (I don’t have enough clubs) or can I pass here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just that I heard from some sources the advice &quot;with strong hand '2C' - the partnership must get to game.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand however, we might have 25 pts, but not have 8-card fit, or stopper in suit for NT play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to pass?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T14:46:37.473" Title="Question regarding strong 2c opening" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12053" CreationDate="2013-05-27T02:31:01.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &quot;legal&quot;, as in not against the law; but ill advised if you expect and desire to play with this partner again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern agreements tend to the line of &quot;forcing to 2NT, or 3 of a major, or 4 of a minor&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guarantees the 2C opener 3 calls to define the hand, and infers that a 2C opening based on a strong minor suit must either be suitable for NT or about a trick better than one based on a strong major suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, consider partner's problem with a strong club or diamond hand. How could partner possibly describe this hand without the assurance of not being passed in a 3C or 3D rebid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In regards to your specific situation, I would rank possible bids over partner's 3C rebid in this order with 2 HCP as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bid 3 of any 6-card suit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bid 4C with 3 or more of them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bid any 5-card suit at the three level&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bid 3D with Qxxx or JTxx of diamonds in an unbalanced hand, in case partner want to show a two-suiter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bid 3NT otherwise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 3NT should never end up as the final contract, because partner has denied all interest in NT by bidding 3C. This bid denies any extremely unbalanced hand, by failing the criteria for all the higher preferences; this is valuable to partner in assessing level and denomination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner continues with 4C over any of these calls, you can pass. If partner bids a new suit this continues the force, and you must choose between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bid a new suit to show your value and promise 4+ support in partner's second suit;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jump in a new suit to show a singleton and  4+ support for partner's second suit;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;single-raise partner's suit with 3 or 4 of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;preference back to clubs with exactly 2 of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No other possibilities exist. This scheme is not in any way conventional, but simply common-sense natural bidding. Even the &lt;em&gt;splinter&lt;/em&gt; jump has become a natural call, as what is termed an &quot;impossible value-showing hand&quot;, and thus must be the exact opposite of it's literal meaning: instead of strong, length-showing denying support, it must be weak, shortness showing, and confirming support. While not all partners will recognize this call, all experts will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner bids 4NT over your rebid this is Blackwood (with clubs as trump if you play key-card), and consequently forcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-06-12T22:32:42.270" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T22:32:42.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-27T19:36:18.970" Score="3" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Finnish friend gave me a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afrikan_tahti&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Afrikan Tähti&lt;/a&gt;. We played it a couple of times, and while it was kind of fun, it really seems like a children's game, and I won't bring it out again in a hurry. Luck overshadows strategy, and when you start you don't know if it will take 45 seconds or 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any variants or house rules, or even different games that can be played with the same map and peices, that could be more strategic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2549" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T01:12:04.603" Title="Afrikan Tähti improvements/variants" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-27T18:23:01.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6883" CreationDate="2013-05-28T07:12:00.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;More recently, there is the enchantment &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSphere%20of%20Safety%5d&quot;&gt;Sphere of Safety&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Return_to_Ravnica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Return to Ravnica&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-04-01T09:17:07.250" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T09:17:07.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9572" CreationDate="2013-05-28T17:01:38.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a unit is under attack from Province X, can it still interfere with the actions of a unit on Province Y?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but the only action you can 'interfere' with is support, and only against other provinces.  So in this case if the unit in province Y had a support order OTHER than supporting an attack against this unit, it would be cut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, Y has a Convoy order, which is unaffected by an attack that doesn't dislodge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T17:01:38.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12060" CreationDate="2013-05-28T19:21:27.523" Score="6" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A is at 6life, Player B at 20 life. Player A resolves a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scapeshift&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt; and sacrifices 9 lands for 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valakut%2C%20the%20Molten%20Pinnacle&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt;s and 6 Mountains. This will trigger 18 times 3 damage (I think). In answer to that, Player B resolve &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Deflection&quot;&gt;Divine Deflection&lt;/a&gt; where X=6 targeting Player A. Is this game a draw, player A or player B wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5340" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-05-28T21:53:33.250" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T21:53:33.250" Title="Does the game end immediately when one player reaches 0 life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12059" CreationDate="2013-05-28T19:29:24.300" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A loses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eighteen instances of Valakut's triggered ability will go on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divine Deflection is cast and eventually resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger #18 resolves. It deals no damage and Divine Deflection deals three damage to Player A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger #17 resolves. It deals no damage and Divine Deflection deals three damage to Player A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A loses the game for having non-positive life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B wins the game for being the only player left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-05-28T19:29:24.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T06:28:19.790" Score="0" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you've cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collective%20Voyage&quot;&gt;Collective Voyage&lt;/a&gt;, do you wait for everyone to pay and then respond with Flash, or do you have to respond immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5345" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T12:05:48.810" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T20:56:59.700" Title="When can you cast Flash after casting Collective Voyage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12061" CreationDate="2013-05-29T07:50:30.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play a sorcery, you place the spell on the stack.  Players can then respond with an instant spell or an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When nobody responds, or all the responses have resolved, the sorcery will &quot;resolve&quot; in one go.  You cannot respond while a spell is resolving.  That means you can't respond to the first part of the spell, when players pay mana.  The spell will resolve in its entirety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after the entire sorcery is done can you respond again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T07:50:30.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13722" CreationDate="2013-05-29T07:55:33.660" Score="4" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Kingsport, you can become &lt;code&gt;Changed&lt;/code&gt; which confers rather &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Changed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a lot of nice abilities&lt;/a&gt;. However, I am not sure that the balance is right.  It takes 10 toughness or 2 gates or 1 gate &amp;amp; 5 toughness to get. In addition, it takes around 7/8 turns to get and be ready to use it.  This mean that the benefits are likely to be relevant for the last half-dozen or so turns before the game ends -- the end game basically.  This makes the Seal (part of changed) you get kinda useless since maybe one or two gates might open on its location and chances are small that they will be gate bursts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this with either the &lt;code&gt;White Ship&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Captain_of_the_White_Ship&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) or &lt;code&gt;Deputy of Arkham&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Deputy_of_Arkham&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) which in my not so humble opinion are of equal power to &lt;code&gt;Changed&lt;/code&gt; and to each other and are well within reach in early to mid game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is my analysis of &lt;code&gt;Changed&lt;/code&gt; correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is broken, how can we fix it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PS&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;I get that the last question might pool arguments and discussions. So, please adhere to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/&quot;&gt;Good Subjective/Bad Subjective&lt;/a&gt; rules. Thanks!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T17:54:44.960" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T17:54:44.960" Title="The cost/benefit of Changed?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-kingsport-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12061" CreationDate="2013-05-29T12:34:58.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;MtG works by a system of &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timing_and_Priority&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;timing and priority&lt;/a&gt;. The Active Player, player whose turn it is, can cast Sorceries when the stack is empty during their first or second Main Phase. After casting a spell and paying the required costs, including mana costs, the spell waits on the stack for all players to pass priority, then the top object on the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collective%20Voyage&quot;&gt;Collective Voyage&lt;/a&gt; for one {G} mana places it on the stack, and then priority is returned to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may choose to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flash&quot;&gt;Flash&lt;/a&gt; before Collective Voyage resolves, in response to it, since Instants may be cast anytime you have priority and you have the required costs including mana cost {1}{U} to cast the spell. In this case, it would resolve first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1a A player may cast an instant spell any time he or she has priority. A player may cast a noninstant spell during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also choose to wait until after Collective Voyage resolves, when you will receive priority again to cast spells and activate abilities. In this case, it would resolve afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the resolution of Collective Voyage, players may not cast spells, but may activate mana abilities to search their library for land cards. The order of how much to pay is written on the card, starting with the player who cast Collective Voyage and continuing clockwise. After all players have decided how much to pay, the lands are placed on the battlefield simultaneously and Collective Voyage is placed in its owner's graveyard (having resolved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1d A player may activate a mana ability whenever he or she has priority,whenever he or she is casting a spell or activating an ability that requires a mana payment, or whenever a rule or effect asks for a mana payment (even in the middle of casting or resolving a spell or activating or resolving an ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T12:34:58.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12081" CreationDate="2013-05-29T12:41:15.043" Score="6" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 6th edition, the &quot;Declare Charge&quot; rule specifies that if the unit shot a &lt;em&gt;Rapid Fire&lt;/em&gt; weapon then they can't charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactical Space Marines have a bolter (24ps range) and a bolter pistol (12ps range) as basic equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that within a 12ps range, I can't shoot the bolter (not even as single shot) and charge. I also understand that within the 12ps range, I can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; shoot as rapid fire (two shots)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But within the same 12ps range, can I decide to shoot with the pistol and then charge?&#xA;My understanding would be &quot;yes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T02:41:19.157" Title="Space Marine Charge &amp; Rapid Fire" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12053" CreationDate="2013-05-29T12:54:37.807" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Questions like this depend on what you have agreed with partner (presumably not applicable here) or the default for your system. The default for Acol, for example, is that, unless the bidding goes 2C-2D-2NT, you must continue until game is reached. Here, partner is showing a long club suit as well as points, and would like to know your best suit before deciding on which game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T12:54:37.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12070" CreationDate="2013-05-29T13:43:06.207" Score="0" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw a creature in standard who's power and toughness are equal to  the number of sorcery and instant cards in your graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the name of this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2569" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T15:44:23.557" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T15:57:26.233" Title="What is the name the creature that is X/X where X is the number of sorcery and Instant cards in your graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2013-05-29T22:04:22.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2013-05-29T13:47:43.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To make the game slightly easier, deal either the double of cards or one extra than the investigator needs and pick the &lt;em&gt;one(s) that the most thematically appropriate&lt;/em&gt; to the character and &lt;em&gt;discard the rest&lt;/em&gt;.  This makes trading items in the first few turns almost redundant thus allowing to focus on monsters and/or gates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T13:47:43.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7487" CreationDate="2013-05-29T15:41:50.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some mechanics which limit kingmaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We once played a 3-player version of Magic where anyone could attack anyone, and the winner was whoever had the most life at the moment the first of the three players died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this game, kingmaking is the last place person's job. It provides them with the best shot at whittling down the leaders to bringing a win back in reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It actually helped the game stay exciting though, keeping things interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5348" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T15:41:50.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12067" CreationDate="2013-05-29T15:47:06.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such card (creature or otherwise) that matches your description. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?page=1&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%7C%5Binstant%5D%7C%5Bsorcery%5D%20%5Bgraveyard%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG gatherer search for sorcery + instant + graveyard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest I could find was the same one you posted in a comment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244681&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Runechanter's Pike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T15:47:06.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12100" CreationDate="2013-05-29T16:16:18.427" Score="12" ViewCount="2134" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 5+ player game, the first two players to roll fists/claws can enter Tokyo.  If there is already a player in Tokyo City, but Tokyo Bay is open, does rolling fists/claws damage the monster in Tokyo City as well as allowing entry to Tokyo Bay or do they only get to enter without dealing damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T16:18:19.727" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T03:13:46.163" Title="When entering Tokyo Bay, does the monster in Tokyo City take damage?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3315" CreationDate="2013-05-29T17:01:17.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of rule tweaks (as opposed to expansions), &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/House%20Rules%20RL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Richard Launius' house rules&lt;/a&gt; (pdf) are as close to canonical as it gets (he designed the game). They're linked in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/3318/409&quot;&gt;the accepted answer&lt;/a&gt;, but there's a lot more, so I think it's worth having a summary here. The document is organized by rule type; to help make it easier to find rules to tweak the difficulty how you want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Much harder: rule 9 (no victory for sealed gates), rule 10 (with &gt;4 players, two gates per mythos with &gt;=6 doom tokens), rule 11 (modified Great Old One combat)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Harder: rule 1 (two monsters on first gate), rule 2 (semi-random investigators), rule 3 (gate locations unknown), rule 5 (lose spell/skill on insanity), rule 7 (lose sanity for harming another investigator)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Easier: rule 4 (choose to travel through gate), rule 8 (one free evade)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Much easier: rule 6 (monster guards sucked through closing gates)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 1b (two monsters per gate with &gt;4 players) makes it harder, but was already added by the Dunwich rule revisions. Rule 12 (game master draws two mythos cards and chooses one) can make the game either easier or harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T17:44:28.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12074" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-05-29T19:15:35.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board game where players take the role of enormous monsters in a battle for the city of Tokyo.  The game was designed by Richard Garfield and published by IELLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastEditorUserId="3594" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T21:23:38.280" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T21:23:38.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12075" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-05-29T19:15:35.870" Score="0" Body="Board game where players take the role of enormous monsters in a battle for the city of Tokyo.  " OwnerUserId="3594" LastEditorUserId="3594" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T21:23:43.297" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T21:23:43.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12061" CreationDate="2013-05-29T20:56:59.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flash&quot;&gt;Flash&lt;/a&gt; (or a card with Flash) in response to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collective%20Voyage&quot;&gt;Collective Voyage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flash&quot;&gt;Flash&lt;/a&gt; (or a card with Flash) after &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collective%20Voyage&quot;&gt;Collective Voyage&lt;/a&gt; has finished resolving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To cast a spell in response to a spell or ability is to cast a spell after another has been cast but before it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast Flash in response to Collective Voyage, Flash will resolve before Collective Journey, so Flash will resolve before anyone has payed any mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Collective Voyage has finished resolving, players have a change to play spells, starting with the active player (which is likely the one who cast Collective Voyage, since it's a sorcery).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could cast it then if the Active player declines to cast anything then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T20:56:59.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-05-29T22:02:39.697" Score="7" ViewCount="1277" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrecking%20Ogre&quot;&gt;Wrecking Ogre&lt;/a&gt;, a spell with Bloodrush 3RR and have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruby%20Medallion&quot;&gt;Ruby Medallion&lt;/a&gt; out (all red spells cost 1 less to play) does this also affect the Bloodrush?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same vein, can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smokebraider&quot;&gt;Smokebraider&lt;/a&gt;'s ability ({T}: Add two mana in any combination of colors to your mana pool. Spend this mana only to cast Elemental spells or activate abilities of Elementals) to pay the Bloodrush on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scorchwalker&quot;&gt;Scorchwalker&lt;/a&gt; (which is an elemental creature)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5349" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T23:14:12.113" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T22:17:47.917" Title="Is the bloodrush ability affected by cards that reduce casting cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12077" CreationDate="2013-05-29T22:14:04.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bloodrush is an activated ability that you can use from your hand. You are not casting the card when you use it.&lt;/strong&gt; Thus, bloodrush is unaffected by any effects that modify casting costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that affect abilities, however, do affect bloodrush — as long as they can affect cards in your hand. E.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suppression%20Field&quot;&gt;Suppression Field&lt;/a&gt; will make all bloodrush cards more expensive to activate because it doesn't limit the scope of &amp;quot;activated abilities,&amp;quot; but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Training%20Grounds&quot;&gt;Training Grounds&lt;/a&gt; does not modify bloodrush costs because it is scoped to creatures you control (not creatures &lt;em&gt;cards&lt;/em&gt; in your hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smokebraider&quot;&gt;Smokebraider&lt;/a&gt;'s case, the card specifies &amp;quot;abilities of Elementals,&amp;quot; which means &lt;em&gt;permanents&lt;/em&gt; with the Elemental type. This is clarified in the Oracle text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10/1/2007     The mana can't be spent to activate activated abilities of Elemental sources that aren't on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-05-29T23:37:52.597" LastActivityDate="2013-05-29T23:37:52.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12077" CreationDate="2013-05-29T23:12:04.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bloodrush is an activated ability [CR 207.2c, 112.3b]. It's not a spell [CR 111.1, 111.1a].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruby%20Medallion&quot;&gt;Ruby Medallion&lt;/a&gt; does not reduce the cost of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrecking%20Ogre&quot;&gt;Wrecking Ogre&lt;/a&gt;'s or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scorchwalker&quot;&gt;Scorchwalker&lt;/a&gt;'s Bloodrush ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bloodrush can only be activated from someone's hand (since discarding it is part of the activation cost) [CR 112.6i].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Smokebraider's mana can only be used for the activated abilities of Elementals (i.e. Elemental permanents (i.e. Elemental cards and tokens on the battlefield)) [CR 109.2], it can't be used to activate a Bloodrush ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smokebraider&quot;&gt;Smokebraider&lt;/a&gt; ability cannot be used to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scorchwalker&quot;&gt;Scorchwalker&lt;/a&gt;'s Bloodrush ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules referenced above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;207.2c An ability word appears in italics at the beginning of some abilities. Ability words are similar to keywords in that they tie together cards that have similar functionality, but they have no special rules meaning and no individual entries in the Comprehensive Rules. The ability words are bloodrush, [...].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1a A copy of a spell is also a spell [...].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6i An object’s activated ability that has a cost that can’t be paid while the object is on the battlefield functions from any zone in which its cost can be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T22:17:47.917" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T22:17:47.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11808" CreationDate="2013-05-30T00:32:54.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not the set theirselves, it's the &quot;era&quot;. BW: Dragons Exalted and BW: Emerging Powers are from the same era and share the same mechanics (although starting from BW: Next Destinies Pokémon EX were introduced, and from BW: Plasma Storm we got Team Plasma cards with certain advantages when combined with other cards that give them effects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Black &amp;amp; White series and the HeartGold &amp;amp; SoulSilver series are different in that, given the former has Pokémon EX and Team Plasma Pokémon, the latter has Pokémon Prime and Pokémon LEGEND (Prime cards are more powerful versions of certain Pokémon, and LEGEND cards are Pokémon that can only be played by having both parts of the whole card in your hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes the rules change over the eras aswell. In BW some cards received errata (such as Rare Candy) and certain rules were reworked (such as who goes first), but besides that the game remains largely the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4875" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T00:32:54.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12065" CreationDate="2013-05-30T02:41:19.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a model is armed with multiple separate ranged weapons, you only have to follow the restrictions of the ones you use.  So if you choose to fire your Bolt Pistol instead of the Bolt Gun you are free to charge in the same turn.  Pistols have no restriction against assaulting after using them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose to fire the bolt gun at either its full or rapid fire range you cannot assault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T02:41:19.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12072" CreationDate="2013-05-30T09:12:14.997" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, attack damage is resolved before checking if you move into Tokyo (regardless of whether or not Tokyo Bay is available), so the monster who went into Tokyo first will take that damage. For example, if the monster already in Tokyo wished to yield, they could do so, and the second monster would go into Tokyo City instead of Tokyo Bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T09:12:14.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12084" CreationDate="2013-05-30T10:50:43.810" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Well&lt;/em&gt; card text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the producer phase, if the owner of a well produces at least 2&#xA;  goods, he draws an additional card from the card supply, adding it to&#xA;  his hand. It matters not whether he is the producer or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say i have two production buildings.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The first is busy (one card face down on it), second one is empty.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Producer phase starts, i'm not the producer, so i produce an additional good on &#xA;my second building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I produced &lt;strong&gt;one good at this specific phase&lt;/strong&gt; and I'm currently &lt;strong&gt;producing two goods in total&lt;/strong&gt; as I have 2 busy production buildings at the end of the phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question: should I draw an additonal card in this case?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Another way to formulate the question would be:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one of this rewritten rule corresponds to the rule? :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During the producer phase, if the owner of a well produces at least 2 &lt;strong&gt;new&lt;/strong&gt; goods, he draws an additional card from the card supply, adding it to his hand. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During the producer phase, if the total number of goods lying on production buildings is at least 2, he draws an additional card from the card supply, adding it to his hand. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5353" LastEditorUserId="5353" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T12:40:31.377" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:55:21.307" Title="&quot;Well&quot; building special function clarification" Tags="|san-juan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12083" CreationDate="2013-05-30T12:10:03.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not draw an extra card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=136&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; say the following under the Producer role:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player has no empty production buildings, he produces no goods in this round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently it's established that the production of a good is dependent on the availability of a building to do so. If you only have one production building free then you can only produce at most one good, and so you do not qualify for the Well bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In answer to the edited part of the question:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct interpretation of the rule is rule 1 - i.e. the goods must be new.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your misunderstanding is shown by the following statement &quot;I'm currently producing two goods in total&quot;. This is not correct - you have produced one good already, and in the current phase you are producing one new good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that to produce two goods in a single Producer phase you must either be the Producer, or have an Aquaduct built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T12:55:21.307" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T12:55:21.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12086" CreationDate="2013-05-30T14:36:27.720" Score="1" ViewCount="5521" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=278065&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angelic Wall&lt;/a&gt; (0/4) blocks a creature with a power of 5, would Angelic Wall die? My brother is playing Magic 2013 on his iPad, and basically when his creatures with Defender (the ability) blocks a stronger creature, the defenders never die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep telling him they do die in the actual card game but every reference I find just says they do not attack but not whether or not they die. His reasoning is that they just absorb damage to lessen the affect of trample, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T17:11:04.617" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T17:11:04.617" Title="Do creatures with Defender ability die?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12085" CreationDate="2013-05-30T14:41:46.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The short: Yes any creature that suffers leathal damage 'dies' including those with Defender.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A wall as they were previously known, is a creature with defender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it takes 5 damage it is destroyed.(Dies)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 119 all parts but this one in particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;119.5. Damage dealt to a creature or planeswalker doesn't destroy it. Likewise, the source of that damage doesn't destroy it. Rather,&#xA;  state-based actions may destroy a creature or planeswalker, or&#xA;  otherwise put it into its owner's graveyard, due to the results of the&#xA;  damage dealt to that permanent. See rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the state based action is what sends the creature to the grave yard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that&#xA;  creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration&#xA;  can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Defender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.3. Defender&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.3a Defender is a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.3b A creature with defender can't attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.3c Multiple instances of defender on the same creature are redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a 'Defender' is simply a creature with an ability. Any creature that has damage marked on it that is greater than it's toughness, is destroyed as a state based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T14:47:49.270" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T14:47:49.270" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12090" CreationDate="2013-05-30T14:51:33.397" Score="5" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, when using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sulfuric%20Vortex&quot;&gt;Sulfuric Vortex&lt;/a&gt; does its owner need to remind each player at the beginning of their upkeep to take the damage? Or is a case of, if its owner forgets to tell you, then you do nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar question for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Falkenrath%20Noble&quot;&gt;Falkenrath Noble&lt;/a&gt;: if I forget to gain a life and forget to target a player to lose a life then does the ability never take effect? When is it too late - the next player's upkeep? The end of my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T17:08:17.680" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T17:31:20.560" Title="Does a player with a recurring action need to remind other players each time it would take affect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12089" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:00:22.870" Score="3" ViewCount="2036" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tainted%20Field&quot;&gt;Tainted Field&lt;/a&gt;, can I use both abilities if I have a Swamp? I was told I can only use one ability or the other but not both, but I do not understand the benefit of using one over the other. They both basically seem the same to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T17:25:20.123" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T17:59:22.627" Title="Can I use both abilities of Tainted Field? What's the difference?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12088" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:01:41.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can both be used but only one can be used at a time. This is because to use either ability, you need to tap the card and it can not be tapped twice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second ability lets you produce colored mana where the first ability only lets you produce colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that you must control a swamp in order to use the second ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you play that land, you can immidiatly tap it for colorless mana if you do not control a swamp. If you do control a swamp, then you can tap it for either a white or a black mana or a colorless mana. If you do not need specifically a white or a black mana, then yes both abilities produce one mana which can be used to pay a colorless cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course important because unless you are playing with primarily artifacts, you are going to need mana of a specific color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card imparticular allows you to play one land that can produce a single mana of two different colors under specific circumstances. This is very usefull in a deck that has cards of the two colors in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All lands are permanents with no color that have at least one mana ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic lands have the ability to produce when tapped a single mana of their type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.6. The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the words &quot;basic land type,&quot; it's referring&#xA;  to one of these subtypes. A land with a basic land type has the&#xA;  intrinsic ability &quot;{T}: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,&quot; even if&#xA;  the text box doesn't actually contain that text or the object has no&#xA;  text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is {W}; for Islands, {U}; for&#xA;  Swamps, {B}; for Mountains, {R}; and for Forests, {G}. See rule&#xA;  107.4a. Also see rule 605, &quot;Mana Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T15:18:57.703" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:18:57.703" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12087" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:07:33.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word to look for is &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt;.  For example, the rules text for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368953&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bred for the Hunt&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control with a +1/+1 counter on it deals&#xA;  combat damage to a player, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a triggered ability says &quot;may&quot;, It's up to the owner of the ability to draw a card. If he forgets, that's too bad for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules text for  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368550&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sulfuric Vortex&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each player's upkeep, Sulfuric Vortex deals 2&#xA;  damage to that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says &quot;deals damage&quot; instead of &quot;you may have Sulfiric Vortex deal 2 damage&quot;.  Without the &quot;may&quot;, it's not optional. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You aren't allowed to miss your own triggered abilities, and your&#xA;  opponent isn't required to remind you about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So not announcing the trigger is a rules infraction.  If you do forget a trigger in a casual game (regular rule enforcement):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a triggered ability is forgotten (or any other game error is made)&#xA;  and the error is discovered later, players should alert the judge. The&#xA;  judge will try and fix the error if possible and, if not, the game&#xA;  will just continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The responsibility for announcing the trigger lies with the player who owns the ability.  While other players are not required to announce the trigger, it's a good idea to do so.  If the owner notices two rounds later, it will be applied retroactively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Official tournaments are different (competitive and professional rule enforcement):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What the judge will do when you miss your triggers:&#xA;  your opponent gets to decide whether he or she wants the trigger to&#xA;  happen or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That makes for more competitive but less enjoyable games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastEditorUserId="5305" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T15:26:18.797" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:26:18.797" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12093" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:32:33.617" Score="4" ViewCount="22653" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know creatures with summoning sickness can not attack unless they have haste. My brother is using this to his defense as if you use a 3/3 creature with summoning sickness to block an attack from a 2/2 creature then the 2/2 creature would not die because you are only blocking and not attacking back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="2730" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T16:34:35.183" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T16:34:35.183" Title="Do creatures with summoning sickness deal damage while blocking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-03-24T01:43:30.553" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12091" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:37:28.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All blockers deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1d A blocking creature assigns combat damage to the creatures it's blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness only makes it so that you can not tap to activate abilities or attack with a creature the turn it comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points: You can tap a creature that comes into play the same turn if you are tapping it as a cost to activate some other ability not belonging to the creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:37:28.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12091" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:37:40.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike other types of permanents, creatures enter the battlefield with “summoning sickness”: a creature can’t &#xA;  attack, or use an ability that has {tap} in its cost, until it has started your turn on the battlefield under your control. &#xA;  You can block with a creature or activate its other abilities no matter how long it’s been on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocking is not &quot;attacking back&quot;. Blocking creatures deal damage normally, whether they have summoning sickness or not. Again, the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After all blockers are chosen, combat damage is assigned. &#xA;  Each creature—both attackers and blockers—deals damage &#xA;  equal to its power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• An attacking creature that isn’t blocked deals damage to the &#xA;  player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• An attacking creature that is blocked deals damage to the &#xA;  blocking creatures. If one of your attacking creatures is &#xA;  blocked by multiple creatures, you decide how to divide &#xA;  its combat damage among them. You must assign at least &#xA;  enough damage to the first blocking creature in line to &#xA;  destroy it before you can assign damage to the next one in &#xA;  line, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• A blocking creature deals damage to the attacker it’s blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:37:40.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12095" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:38:33.443" Score="3" ViewCount="2169" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368485&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt; once the spell is played on my turn it is put into the graveyard. However if I have enough mana can I instantly play the flashback ability or do I need to wait until my next turn to take it out the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T16:40:05.473" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T16:40:05.473" Title="Can I use Lingering Souls' flashback ability the same turn I cast it normally?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12094" CreationDate="2013-05-30T15:45:29.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the card is in the graveyard, you have the mana to pay the flashback cost, and  priority to play the spell, you can play it. Note that you have to wait for the spell to resolve before you can play it again, because that's when you put the card in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no rule specifying that you have to wait until your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T15:45:29.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12087" CreationDate="2013-05-30T17:31:20.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to cover competitive REL environments.  at regular REL, it is possible for the judge to fix the game-state after triggers have been missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger rules have been in a state of flux over the past couple years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 years ago, if your opponent missed a mandatory trigger and it was to your advantage and it was determined that you knew about it, purposefully let it go so that it was to your advantage, than &lt;strong&gt;YOU&lt;/strong&gt; would get disqualified for cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was determined to not be on purpose than you both would receive a warning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;last year, Andomar's answer would be correct, but they changed that some months ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this February, they published &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article announcing a new change to the trigger rules.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can read the article for more details, but essentially the trigger is considered to &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be missed until the controller of the trigger's source makes a decision where the trigger would have mattered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one of the major examples of this is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyreheart%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Pyreheart Wolf&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the previous rules, if you didn't explicitly declare the trigger, than you would have considered to have missed it, but under today's rules, if your opponent tries to block with just 1 creature, you can correct them and remind them of the wolf's trigger.  If you don't remind them it is considered missed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T17:31:20.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12088" CreationDate="2013-05-30T17:48:32.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't confuse triggered abilities (which react to an event) and activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an object has two triggered abilities that trigger on the same event (&quot;Whenever this becomes tapped, ...&quot;), both will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an object has two activated abilities (&quot;{T}: ...&quot;), they are can only be activated one at a time, and you need to pay the cost for each ability you want to activate. In fact, you can use an activated ability as often as you can pay the activation cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Tainted Field's first ability, the land would normally be tapped, so you wouldn't be able to play the activation cost of either abilities again until your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for the second ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-05-30T17:59:22.627" LastActivityDate="2013-05-30T17:59:22.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2013-05-31T00:43:47.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to sites dedicated to mafia like those already described, a lot of forums that have a &quot;Forum Games&quot; section will be open to running mafia games if they aren't already - I play mafia regularly on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.xkcd.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.xkcd.com&lt;/a&gt; and have seen it being run on many other forums I frequent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T00:43:47.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12072" CreationDate="2013-05-31T03:13:46.163" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You deal damage to the Monster in Tokyo City, then take control of Tokyo Bay (or Tokyo City if the damaged Monster abandons it).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/63033/king-of-tokyo-english-rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page two far right column:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Tokyo Bay is unoccupied but Tokyo City is, the Monster who attacks Tokyo deals damage to the moster controlling it, then takes control of Tokyo Bay - or Tokyo City if the damaged monster abandons Tokyo City.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T03:13:46.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12102" CreationDate="2013-05-31T04:04:36.330" Score="12" ViewCount="45553" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urge%20to%20Feed&quot;&gt;Urge to Feed&lt;/a&gt; (-3/-3 until end of turn) against a 1/1 creature, does that creature die?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zealous%20Persecution&quot;&gt;Zealous Persecution&lt;/a&gt; in a multiple player game, would it destroy all 1/1 creatures on the battlefield except mine?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dead%20Weight&quot;&gt;Dead Weight&lt;/a&gt; to enchant a 1/1 creature, would it destroy that creature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am confused with the first 2 because it says &amp;quot;Until end of turn&amp;quot;, so would the 1/1 creature go back to normal after my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 3rd one, if it does destroy the creature then would the creature come back to life if the enchant is destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T21:12:01.677" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T21:12:01.677" Title="If a sorcery card gives -X/-X to a 1/1 creature till end of turn does the creature die?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12101" CreationDate="2013-05-31T04:15:35.743" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creatures die in all of those cases. If a creature's toughness is reduced to zero (or less), it is immediately put into the graveyard. It doesn't matter if at the end of the turn its toughness would become positive again; it died long before then. There's no coming back from the dead (not without playing a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unburial%20Rites&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt;, anyway). In the third case, when the creature dies, since Dead Weight no longer has a creature to enchant, it also immediately goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you care about details of the rules, this is an example of a state-based action. Here's the actual rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it's put into its owner's graveyard. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions happen automatically*; others you already know include creatures dying when they've taken lethal damage or you dying when your life is zero. Another state-based action: auras being put into the graveyard when the creature they enchanted dies (like I mentioned with Dead Weight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more general thing you should learn here: when an object changes zones, like a creature being moved from the battlefield to the graveyard, it doesn't &amp;quot;remember&amp;quot; anything about where it came from. The creature card in your graveyard doesn't know it used to be a creature on the battlefield, that its toughness was reduced, and so on. It's just in the graveyard, and it stays there. (If you're curious, this is comp rule 400.7. - it does have a few specific exceptions, mostly things that you'd expect are necessary to make cards work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* State-based actions don't technically happen &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;; they happen whenever a player would get priority. This distinction doesn't usually matter, though - pretty much, it means the creature dies when the spell or ability finishes resolving, not halfway through, which doesn't usually make a difference.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T17:39:35.637" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T17:39:35.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12104" CreationDate="2013-05-31T04:16:47.613" Score="6" ViewCount="1355" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Reckoning&quot;&gt;Blood Reckoning&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and an opponent targets me or my planeswalker with his creatures, but I block the full attack with my creatures, does this still activate? Or do I or my planeswalker need to take damage from the creatures for this card to take effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if my opponent attacks with multiple creatures does this card activate per creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T10:12:45.170" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T17:15:35.007" Title="Do I or my planeswalker need to take damage for Blood Reckoning to trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12103" CreationDate="2013-05-31T04:53:06.153" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: all your opponent has to do is declare attackers. As soon as they do that, they lose the life. Blocking and dealing damage come later. And yes, it triggers separately for each creature your opponent attacks with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: You're confusing terminology a bit here. &quot;Target&quot; has a specific meaning (spells and abilities can have targets), and attacking with creatures doesn't target. &quot;Attack&quot;, as in &quot;Whenever a creature attacks you&quot; also has a specific meaning - it means in the declare attackers step, that creature is declared as an attacker*. Blood Reckoning's triggered ability sees that happen, triggers, goes on the stack, then resolves, causing your opponent to lose life. All of this happens before going on to the next step, declaring blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the steps of the combat phase are beginning of combat, declare attackers, declare blockers, assign damage, and end of combat. (Often nothing happens in the beginning and end steps.) The sequence of combat steps is summarized in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM13_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, and there's a great detailed walkthrough of combat (and all the details you could want to know about assigning damage) about halfway through &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;. (The article's actually about rule changes from Magic 2010, so there's a bit of &quot;this is the new way&quot;, but it's a good walkthrough nonetheless.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the per-attacker triggering, there's not much to say - triggered abilities just trigger for every bit of the game that matches their trigger condition. Blood Reckoning cares about &quot;a creature is declared as an attacker&quot; so if there are five of those, there are five triggers. Note though that this is helpfully mentioned in the rulings at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=279991&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the card's Gatherer page&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* As pointed out in the comments, &quot;a creature is declared as an attacker&quot; is different from &quot;a creature on the battlefield is attacking&quot;. There are cards like Geist of Saint Traft which put a token creature onto the battlefield already attacking. That creature was never declared as an attacker, so it doesn't trigger abilities like Blood Reckoning's.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T17:15:35.007" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T17:15:35.007" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12108" CreationDate="2013-05-31T06:31:24.763" Score="3" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many variations, but I presume there was an initial original version of puppet stayman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know who came up with it, and why it is named as such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A google search has been unrevealing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T10:36:43.437" Title="Origin of Puppet Stayman" Tags="|bridge|history|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12131" CreationDate="2013-05-31T09:46:57.180" Score="9" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/77130/sid-meiers-civilization-the-board-game&quot;&gt;Civilization: The Board Game&lt;/a&gt; (the 2010 version) has the &lt;em&gt;Atomic Theory&lt;/em&gt; tech which lets me nuke someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Movement:&lt;/strong&gt; Nuke a non-capital city.  The city is destroyed, along&#xA;  with all buildings, wonders, figures, and great people in its&#xA;  outskirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do this at any point during the movement phase of a turn, or can I only perform this action during &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; movement phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T22:57:13.973" Title="When can I nuke someone?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12109" CreationDate="2013-05-31T09:59:51.277" Score="13" ViewCount="7337" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12091/do-creatures-with-summoning-sickness-deal-damage-while-blocking&quot;&gt;this question about blockers and summoning sickness&lt;/a&gt;, reminded me of a seldom treaded area of the combat phase, which has caused confusion in a number of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When blockers are declared, the attacker chooses the order damage will be assigned to them. Then, they assign damage, assigning at least lethal damage to the first one in line, before moving on to the next, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can spells be cast between the ordering of blockers by an attacker, and the damage being assigned?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for example, is blocking a  4/4 creature with 4 1/1 soldier tokens, and then casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on the &quot;first in line&quot; so the other 3 soldiers survive a legal play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T21:43:31.627" Title="Can I pump my blocker after the attacker has chosen their order, before damage assignment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12105" CreationDate="2013-05-31T10:36:43.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stayman_convention#Puppet_Stayman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Puppet Stayman, initially developed by Neil Silverman and refined by Kit Woolsey and Steve Robinson in 1977-78&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can locate copies of the April 1977 and April 1978 editions of &lt;em&gt;The Bridge World&lt;/em&gt; magazine that might have more details on the history of the system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why it's called puppet stayman, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgevaria.com/index.php/questions-about-bridge/525-what-is-puppet-in-puppet-stayman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; has an answer from the editor of &lt;em&gt;The Bridge World&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In The Bridge World's terminology, a puppet is a transfer that systemically requires partner to make the cheapest bid. Puppet Stayman is so-called because in the original version a 2♣ response to 1NT required opener to bid 2♦ (as in Gladiator before it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T10:36:43.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12107" CreationDate="2013-05-31T11:16:31.410" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to the comment, it is true that combat damage no longer goes on the stack.  However, the fact that combat damage no longer goes on the stack does not affect the answer to your question.  Assigning the order of blockers is part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Declare_blockers_step&quot;&gt;Declare Blockers step&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.2. Second, for each attacking creature that's become blocked, the active player announces that creature's damage assignment order, which&#xA;  consists of the creatures blocking it in an order of that player's&#xA;  choice. (During the combat damage step, an attacking creature can't&#xA;  assign combat damage to a creature that's blocking it unless each&#xA;  creature ahead of that blocking creature in its order is assigned&#xA;  lethal damage.) This turn-based action doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you get priority, still during the Declare Blockers step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.5. Fifth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use Giant Growth to save all your soldier tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Unless the attacking creature has Deathtouch.  In that case, one damage is considered lethal, so a 4/4 can kill four blocking 4/4 creatures.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastEditorUserId="5305" LastEditDate="2013-05-31T11:32:26.610" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T11:32:26.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12107" CreationDate="2013-05-31T21:43:31.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The combat unrolls as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 509] Declare Blockers&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 509.1] Blockers are declared.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 509.2] Damage Assignment order for attacking creatures is decided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 509.3] Damage Assignment order for blocking creatures is decided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 509.4-5] Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 510] Combat Damage Step&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 510.1] Attacker assigns damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 510.1] Defender assigns damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 510.2] Combat damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[CR 510.3-4] Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cast Giant Growth at the end of the Delcare Blockers step, saving 3 of your four soldiers. Of course, you could have blocked with just one of the Soliders to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was a 4/7 instead of a 4/4, you'd still only lose one Solider and the attacker would still die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T21:43:31.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2013-05-31T23:47:32.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find &quot;by set&quot; irrelevant. If I need a disenchant, I don't want to look through every set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Color -&gt; alpha by first letter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind flipping through all the white Ds to find something and it's easy to sort. Some letters get bun.ched together based on how many cards UVWXYZ for example in most colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to search, I search using Oracle. I have a decent idea of what I own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5360" LastActivityDate="2013-05-31T23:47:32.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12115" CreationDate="2013-06-01T03:57:42.897" Score="1" ViewCount="1350" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220052&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghostly Possession&lt;/a&gt;, since it would make the enchanted creature useless by both preventing all combat damage that would be dealt by and also dealt to enchanted creature then what is the purpose of even giving the creature flying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not fully understanding the proper way to utilize this card or the benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T02:02:03.793" Title="Proper way to play Ghostly Possession Enchantment Aura?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12114" CreationDate="2013-06-01T04:04:00.063" Score="1" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that artifacts and equipment are permanents. When playing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=259689&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ring of Valkas&lt;/a&gt;, it states that at the beginning of every upkeep you can add a +1/+1 counter to equipped creature. My confusion is the ability to equip the creature says to &quot;Equip only as a sorcery&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Understanding is sorcery only lasts until the end of the turn. With that said, how would the creature be equipped at the start of your upkeep to receive the +1/+1 counter? Also would the creature lose the +1/+1 counter at the end of your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Actually I think I may have read the sorcery definition incorrectly which is what is confusing my understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="5305" LastEditDate="2013-06-01T08:26:00.783" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T01:03:21.180" Title="How to play Ring of Valkas?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12113" CreationDate="2013-06-01T04:21:21.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only equip the Ring of Valkas as a sorcery (so, only during one of your main phases) but once it is equipped, the Ring stays on the equipped creature until it is moved or the creature dies. So, you put it on your creature this turn and it starts getting counters on it during your next upkeep, assuming it's still alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Looks like I missed part of the question. Any +1/+1 counters remain on the creature, even if you move the Ring to a different creature, or the ring is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T04:21:21.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12112" CreationDate="2013-06-01T04:23:39.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play it on your own creature, you now have a flying blocker that can't be dealt damage. That's not 'useless' at all. If you play it on an opponent's creature, you can stop it from dealing damage, in exchange for giving them a really good blocker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T04:23:39.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12113" CreationDate="2013-06-01T04:45:27.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, when you get priority, you are given permission to do a number of things, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may cast an instant spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may cast an non-instant spell if it's your main phase and the stack is empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may activate an ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That instruction overrides the above permission. To activate an ability only as a sorcery means you are subject to the same restrictions as a sorcery (or any non-instant spell, for that matter):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may use Equip if it's your main phase and the stack is empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the counter isn't removed at the end of the turn or if the equipment is detached. You could end up with many counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T04:45:27.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12118" CreationDate="2013-06-01T07:58:51.397" Score="3" ViewCount="3530" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got the GoT 1st Ed, and was wondering: is it better to get the 2nd Edition straight, or is it somehow worthwhile to get the two expansions (Clash of Kings + Storm of Swords), on which I understand the 2nd Ed is based on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T13:45:45.430" Title="Game of Thrones 2nd Ed vs 1st + Expansions" Tags="|expansions|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12117" CreationDate="2013-06-01T13:45:45.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having played both, the second edition is &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; more streamlined than the first edition.  The mechanics and &quot;feel&quot; of the game are pretty much the same (although the new &quot;Wildling&quot; and optional &quot;Tides of Battle&quot; cards do make wildling attacks and battles more interesting), a few balancing tweaks, but the biggest changes are mostly aesthetic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, just being able to play without messing around with the overlays from Clash of Kings is a significant selling point (second edition only contains one King's Court overlay to balance three/four-player games), but if you already have the first edition base game, I don't know that any of these benefits are really worth the jump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storm of Swords, for the record, contains a completely different game mode/map which is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; included in the second edition (and which I have never actually played); it is, however, playable with second edition pieces despite being a first edition expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-06-01T13:45:45.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12122" CreationDate="2013-06-02T18:51:03.170" Score="5" ViewCount="16126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always been fascinated with MTG milling decks and, since Ravnica, have wanted to build a fast Glimpse the Unthinkable based mill deck. I've tried numerous times but the deck is always too slow, puttering out before I finish off my opponent. Further, it's tough to find a balance of aggressively milling while simultaneously defending myself from attacks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a way to make a speedy Glimpse the Unthinkable mill deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My deck constraints are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build around &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83597&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glimpse, the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrmodern&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modern&lt;/a&gt; legal cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latest iteration of my deck is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island x12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swamp x9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watery Grave x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drowned Catacomb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=180348&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hedron Crab&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271197&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wall of Frost&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=254107&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jace, Memory Adept&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247154&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Memory Erosion&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227227&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jace's Erasure&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194105&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grasp of Darkness&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220226&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Visions of Beyond&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorceries&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83597&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Glimpse, the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179599&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind Funeral&lt;/a&gt; x3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=266487&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind Sculpt&lt;/a&gt; x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artifacts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193441&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keening Stone&lt;/a&gt; x4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older versions of this deck relied on Ravnica Transmute cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=87962&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shred Memory&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=88955&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Muddle the Mixture&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271214&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dimir Infiltrator&lt;/a&gt; to quickly retrieve the Glimpses but, without mana acceleration, it still took 5-6 turns to get three Glimpses out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4990" LastActivityDate="2020-06-09T03:45:05.257" Title="How can I make a fast, MTG Modern Glimpse-based mill deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2013-06-02T19:55:25.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want my 2 cents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=glimpse%20the%20unthinkable&quot;&gt;glimpse the unthinkable&lt;/a&gt; style of deck, than you're really making a sort of burn deck, except your opponent's life-total is somewhere between 45-50 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, imagine all of your cards in the context of a burn deck.  Does your burn deck want wait until turn 7 to play those &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=keening%20stone&quot;&gt;keening stone&lt;/a&gt;?  Do you even need more than 1 of your instant-game-winning card at the same time?(if you don't need more than 1 at a time than you shouldn't run 4).  does a burn deck want to run cards that stall the other guy without being able to deal damage? like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Frost&quot;&gt;Wall of Frost&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does a burn deck want to run inefficient cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=gut%20shot&quot;&gt;gut shot&lt;/a&gt; or  in your case &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Erosion&quot;&gt;Memory Erosion&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=jace%27s%20erasure&quot;&gt;jace&amp;#39;s erasure&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=thought%20scour&quot;&gt;thought scour&lt;/a&gt; will help replace itself, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=tomes%20scour&quot;&gt;tomes scour&lt;/a&gt; will help too.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breaking%2FEntering&quot;&gt;Breaking/Entering&lt;/a&gt; is like a smaller glimpse, and maybe you want to run some fetchlands to help out with that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=hedron%20crab&quot;&gt;hedron crab&lt;/a&gt;  There are cheap fetches such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=terramorphic%20expanse&quot;&gt;terramorphic expanse&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=evolving%20wilds&quot;&gt;evolving wilds&lt;/a&gt;.  They might slow you down a bit if you don't actually have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=hedron%20crab&quot;&gt;hedron crab&lt;/a&gt;s out, but that's a call you'll have to make.  you can always use the zendikar ones if you must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the new sets: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/gatecrash-spoiler.html#6653&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatecrash&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/dragons-maze-spoiler.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragon's maze&lt;/a&gt; have dimir cards that also can mill some.  You might look into those sets to see if any are good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-02T19:55:25.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-02T21:09:48.680" Score="5" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a Dark Vengeance box recently so I could use the Dark Angels with my Space Wolves, but after reading the history about them it made me think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use Dark Angels with Space Wolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5365" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-06-02T21:48:54.067" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T12:32:01.563" Title="Can I use my Dark Angels with my Space Wolves?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2013-06-03T09:13:02.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want a fast glimpse the unthinkable deck, then the best you are going to do is definitely going to be cutting those wall of frost, and some of the mill enchantments. play 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=ghost%20quarter&quot;&gt;ghost quarter&lt;/a&gt; (think of it as a 0 mana spell that mills them for 1 card, you can also kill your own land for more hedron crab triggers), and 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archive%20Trap&quot;&gt;Archive Trap&lt;/a&gt;, a spell that does a lot to win you the game when your opponent isn't expecting it after ghost quarter, or turns your ghost quarter into the extremely powerful and mostly banned &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strip%20Mine&quot;&gt;Strip Mine&lt;/a&gt; when your opponent is familiar with your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would probably be looking to extend your longevity with spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=damnation&quot;&gt;damnation&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=black%20sun%27s%20zenith&quot;&gt;black sun&amp;#39;s zenith&lt;/a&gt; to keep the opponent's side of the board under control. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster mage&lt;/a&gt; will let you reuse your glimpses for additional mill, and provide a defense to slow your opponent down, but remember it cant cast your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archive%20Trap&quot;&gt;Archive Trap&lt;/a&gt;s for their trap cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you will want 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dimir%20Signet&quot;&gt;Dimir Signet&lt;/a&gt;, because a turn 3 play of Signet into glimpse the unthinkable is a very efficient ramp turn. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Funeral&quot;&gt;Mind Funeral&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Grind&quot;&gt;Mind Grind&lt;/a&gt; are also both very good cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you will make better use of those hedron crabs by using fetchlands such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=scalding%20tarn&quot;&gt;scalding tarn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Marsh%20Flats&quot;&gt;Marsh Flats&lt;/a&gt;, allowing you to get 2 activations per turn, cheaper alternatives include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terramorphic%20expanse&quot;&gt;Terramorphic expanse&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=evolving%20wilds&quot;&gt;evolving wilds&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest the following changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-4 Jace's Erasure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-4 Wall of Frost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-4 Memory Erosion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-4 Keening Stone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-4 Grasp of Darkness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-2 Visions of Beyond&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-9 Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-7 Swamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-1 Drowned Catacombs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and bring in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 Hallowed Fountain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 Plains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+2 Watery Grave&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Scalding Tarn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Marsh Flats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Ghost Quarter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Dimir Signet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 Mind Funeral&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+2 Mind Grind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Snacpcaster mage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Damnation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Archive Trap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+4 Path To Exile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut a land as the dimir signets help fix your mana, it might be worth cutting another, it depends on how it plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visions of beyond is a bit overkill, as long as you can average about 7 cards milled per card you play, you can win within 4-6 turns, and visions can slow that down, as winning revolves around spending your mana effectively in the early turns. I kept 2 in though as sometimes you just draw all removal and no mill&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damnation might seem counter productive if you have hedron crabs on the field, but with fetchlands, you can hit 6 cards milled per crab with just one land drop, meaning they will usually provide enough mill to be worth playing out even if you then kill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind Grind is there to mitigate when you get mana flooded, so that you can get a higher return per card due to having so much excess mana, it's not something you would want to cast for anything less than x = 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splashing white might be beneficial also, path to exile gives you another route to activate archive trap, and does what grasp of darkness did cheaper. it can also turn a snapcaster mage who gave you a flashback mill last turn, into another land to activate hedron crabs for further mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;these changes should help speed the deck up, and increase your survivability in a more synergistic way than previously. feel free to tinker with numbers based on your own knowledge as i haven't played the deck, but i advise against tinkering the cards that were totally removed back into the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A faster mill deck&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all of the above, if you want a fast mill deck, there are definitely better choices than Glimpse the unthinkable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;abandoning the idea of glimpse the unthinkable, a mill deck that will usually run much faster than &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=glimpse%20the%20unthinkable&quot;&gt;glimpse the unthinkable&lt;/a&gt; can would be the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=protean%20hulk&quot;&gt;protean hulk&lt;/a&gt; combo deck. If you were to play acceleration such as ramp spells (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=rampant%20growth&quot;&gt;rampant growth&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=harrow&quot;&gt;harrow&lt;/a&gt; etc) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heartless%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Heartless Summoning&lt;/a&gt; to accelerate casting your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Protean%20Hulk&quot;&gt;Protean Hulk&lt;/a&gt; you will be able to get it onto the battlefield around turn 4 or 5, any of a number of spells would allow you to sacrifice it (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=fling&quot;&gt;fling&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=viscera%20seer&quot;&gt;viscera seer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=birthing%20pod&quot;&gt;birthing pod&lt;/a&gt;, and many others, just search gatherer for rules text &amp;quot;Sacrifice a creature&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;once you have managed to summon and sacrifice your hulk, your milling combo comes to fruition. It's ability to search for a cumulative 6 converted mana cost worth of creatures allows you to search for the 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=hedron%20crab&quot;&gt;hedron crab&lt;/a&gt;s in your library, and the 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=dryad%20arbor&quot;&gt;dryad arbor&lt;/a&gt;, all of which translate to only 4 converted mana cost of creatures. They all enter the battlefield, each dryad arbor triggers all 4 hedron crabs, which is 16 hedron crab triggers which is 48 milled cards. the final 2 CMC can be used to find a viridian emissary, which would either die instantly to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heartless%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Heartless Summoning&lt;/a&gt;, or be sacrificed to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=viscera%20seer&quot;&gt;viscera seer&lt;/a&gt; or another sacrifice outlet, and give you a basic land and another 12 milled cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i will leave the building of an actual 60 card deck of this combo to you, if you wish to pursue it, since it is not strictly an answer to your question. above should give you an idea for the options, and key cards of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-06-03T16:40:06.947" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T16:40:06.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12121" CreationDate="2013-06-03T12:32:01.563" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.  Wolves and Dark Angels are qualified as &quot;Allies of Convenience&quot; under the 6th edition allies rules.  This allows you to field 1 HQ, 0-1 Elites. 1-2 Troops, 0-1 Fast Attack, and 0-1 Heavy Support options from the Dark Angels codex with your Space Wolves detachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In game-play rules they are treated as enemy models that cannot be directly target by your weapons and abilities.  The DA troop options do count as scoring units for you though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T12:32:01.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2013-06-03T16:22:46.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your mill deck doesn't have to be &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; fast if you can disrupt your opponents plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, your mill deck needs something like: 4x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt;, 2x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Extirpate&quot;&gt;Extirpate&lt;/a&gt;, 2x&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Haunting%20Echoes&quot;&gt;Haunting Echoes&lt;/a&gt; Therefore, after you've milled, you can remove some dangerous multiples from your opponents library and hand, both accelerating the mill and ensuring you survive long enough to execute the plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if your win condition is casting sorceries like Glimpse the Unthinkable, then you may want to consider that workhorse: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also consider reset buttons. Others have suggested mass removal. But I think if you use the Snapcaster, something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devastation%20Tide&quot;&gt;Devastation Tide&lt;/a&gt; is even better. Not only will it disrupt your opponents plans if your mill isn't going fast enough, but if your Snapcaster is on the battlefield, you get to cast it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add those cards you should probably remove the slow enchantments and keening stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-06-03T16:22:46.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12129" CreationDate="2013-06-04T15:40:55.257" Score="30" ViewCount="57612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often see people referring to Blue color mana as &lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt;. What is the reason for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that Black starts with &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; as well but this is somewhat confusing. My guess is that &lt;strong&gt;u&lt;/strong&gt; is the first letter which is different if I start to read both &lt;em&gt;black&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;blue&lt;/em&gt; from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T14:44:02.033" Title="Why do people refer to Blue color as &quot;U&quot; in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12126" CreationDate="2013-06-04T16:01:59.373" Score="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Magic Head Designer Mark Rosewater's &quot;Drive to Work&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtwtranscripts.blogspot.com/2013/05/52413-episode-35-blue.html&quot;&gt;podcast on the subject&lt;/a&gt;, Wizards used &quot;B&quot; for Black and &quot;L&quot; for Land, leaving &quot;U&quot; as the next reasonable choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blue we represent with the letter U. Oh, real quickly. Why do we do that? I’ve talked about this in my column, but for those that haven’t heard me say it, when first Richard made the cards, the problem was that black and blue both start with B. So why not go to L then? Well, land...card colors are used to signify the border, the kind of card it’s on. And so land has its own border. So L is for land. Well, why not go to A for black? Well, A is artifact. And so U was the first we could get to in either of them, so we ended up going with U.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T16:01:59.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12126" CreationDate="2013-06-04T18:02:53.963" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;To piggyback on top of Jadasc's explanation: not only do the names go all the way back to Magic's dawn, we know that they do because of a number of misprints in Alpha that featured the actual letters for the colors on the cards!  For instance, if you look at the Alpha printing of Phantasmal Forces, the text reads 'Controller must spend U during upkeep to maintain' :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VbZqP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Phantasmal Forces, alpha version&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even as soon as the Beta printing, all of the letters had been correctly swapped out for the appropriate mana symbols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T18:02:53.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12106" CreationDate="2013-06-04T22:57:13.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only during your movement phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 22 or the rulebook, there is the card Currency : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;City management&lt;/strong&gt; : Gain 3 culture tokens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the following explanation : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, Currency (shown above) allows a player to spend  one&#xA;  incense resource token to gain three culture tokens during &lt;strong&gt;the&#xA;  player’s&lt;/strong&gt; City Management Phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1603" LastActivityDate="2013-06-04T22:57:13.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12135" CreationDate="2013-06-05T00:27:07.827" Score="10" ViewCount="4102" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I was playing an EDH game with my friend and I had 8 mana available to me. In order for me to win the game, I had to destroy one of his permanents with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spine%20of%20Ish%20Sah&quot;&gt;Spine of Ish Sah&lt;/a&gt; (7 mana). Now I planned to play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Vault&quot;&gt;Mana Vault&lt;/a&gt; (1 mana and produces 3 mana) so that I'd have enough mana for a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Crumple&quot;&gt;Spell Crumple&lt;/a&gt; (3 mana) to protect my Spine of Ish Sah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I played the turn out is I try to cast Spine of Ish Sah, but I forgot to play Mana Vault first. By the time I've realized that I forgot a very important part in my plan, I've already tapped for 5 mana. At this point I stop tapping for mana and I am unable to pay for the Spine of Ish Sah and it should return to my hand (where I cast it from) and my lands should untap (rule 717). My opponent said that's not the game works. He says that since I started paying for the spell, I have to finish paying for the rest of it. Now, is my friend correct, that if you pay for part of a spell, if you are able to pay for all of the spell, then you must finish paying its cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer must have rules referencing this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T02:40:32.607" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T20:24:42.860" Title="Can you stop casting a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12132" CreationDate="2013-06-05T00:57:17.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you noticed, rule 717 &lt;em&gt;seems&lt;/em&gt; to be applicable here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;717.1. If a player realizes that he or she can’t legally take an action after starting to do so, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled.... The player may also reverse any legal mana abilities activated while making the illegal play, unless mana from them or from any triggered mana abilities they triggered was spent on another mana ability that wasn't reversed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not sure it is, exactly. I'm no judge, but this rule states that it applies only to &lt;em&gt;illegal&lt;/em&gt; actions, i.e. those which &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; be completed as declared. In your case, one might argue that there's nothing illegal about your casting of the Spine, and so this rule doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have to look to another rule. The one I find that seems to apply is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. Casting a spell follows the steps listed below, in order. If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”). &lt;strong&gt;Announcements and payments can’t be altered after they've been made.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis added) This suggests that your friend was right and that you cannot stop casting a spell after having announced it, unless you are actually &lt;em&gt;unable&lt;/em&gt; to perform the steps necessary to cast it. Note that the fact that you started &lt;em&gt;paying&lt;/em&gt; for the spell is irrelevant; it's the announcement of the spell that locks it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, most people don't adhere strictly to these clauses in the rules. I've known players to be allowed to take back spells in the middle of casting them - even &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; casting them in some cases - in regular REL tournaments, occasionally, and quite often in casual games. Since EDH is supposed to be a fun, casual format, as described by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot;&gt;official EDH rules&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Commander is designed to promote social games of magic.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  It is played in a variety of ways, depending on player preference, but a common vision ties together the global community to help them enjoy a different kind of magic. That vision is predicated on a social contract: a gentleman's agreement which goes beyond these rules to includes a degree of interactivity between players. Players should aim to interact both during the game and before it begins, discussing with other players what they expect/want from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;House rules or &quot;fair play&quot; exceptions are always encouraged if they result in more fun for the local community.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think taking back a partially cast spell should be allowed there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light of this information I believe the technical term for what your friend is doing is &quot;being a dick.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, Magic Online &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; allow you to take back a partially cast spell, at any point up until you finish selecting targets and paying the associated costs. But that situation is a little different because MTGO doesn't even reveal to your opponent that you intend to cast the spell until you have finished all the steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T00:57:17.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12113" CreationDate="2013-06-05T01:03:21.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My Understanding is sorcery only lasts until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not correct. If something is a sorcery, or is annotated with the text &quot;Play/Activate [this] as a sorcery&quot; or something similar, that simply means that you can only do it during your main phase (either one), when the stack is empty. It doesn't imply anything about how long the effect lasts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything that lasts only until the end of turn will say so specifically. That goes for counters as well: they stay on the permanent for the rest of the game unless something specifically removes them (or the permanent leaves the battlefield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T01:03:21.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12132" CreationDate="2013-06-05T02:59:02.750" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is right, though he should let you do it anyway outside of a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot be forced to produce mana to pay for a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.3c Activating mana abilities is not mandatory, even if paying a cost is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if a spell becomes uncastable, its casting is undone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2 [...] If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it would seem that you can choose to abort the casting of any spell by not producing the mana required to cast it (assuming your mana pool doesn't already have the necessary mana in it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/go/thread/view/75842/29879173/DGM_spoiler_choosing_not_to_complete_the_casting_of_a_spell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;came up&lt;/a&gt; on Wizards's Rules Q&amp;amp;A board recently, it was declared&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; that the intention of the rule is to handle the situation where the casting of a spell &lt;em&gt;becomes&lt;/em&gt; illegal after it has started being cast (and possibly other situations), but it's not meant to be used to voluntarily rollback the casting of a spell. While the rule can be used to avoid casting a spell at all, you are committed to completely cast a spell you've decided to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, deciding to abort casting your spell wouldn't be legal in a tournament, and my friends wouldn't allow any such douchebag rule lawyering in casual. (They could very well allow me to rollback the action if I &lt;em&gt;asked&lt;/em&gt;, but not because of 601.2.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By general consensus among the rules-saavy, by bimmerbot (a very level-headed level 2 judge), and confirmed by Natedogg (the only person on that board capable of making official rulings).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T20:24:42.860" LastActivityDate="2021-12-14T20:24:42.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12137" CreationDate="2013-06-05T14:15:11.093" Score="5" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a game in which players explore and steal from a castle. There needs to be an element of surprise and risk, so I've been considering a tile-based system like that used in Carcassonne. However, I'm not a fan of the (monetary) costs associated with producing such a mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be a good, low-cost way to allow exploration of rooms/halls with the risk of guard/maid encounters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5373" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-05T17:06:12.017" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T00:48:18.163" Title="Implementing a map exploration mechanic cheaply" Tags="|game-development|board-game-adaptations|dice|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12136" CreationDate="2013-06-05T15:08:01.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest you look into existing games of a similar nature and explore what they've done.  You'll see what does and doesn't work, and how well it works.  That should help you decide on a good mechanic for your game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/699/heroquest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HeroQuest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/17226/descent-journeys-in-the-dark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Descent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1339/dungeon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeon!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T15:08:01.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12136" CreationDate="2013-06-05T17:09:26.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your game has a DM role, I'd consider looking at the sort of &quot;predetermined map&quot; with slowly revealed information, with games such as HeroQuest and Descent being examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your game has no DM and randomly generated maps, I'd look at a game such as Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons: Castle Ravenloft for some ideas (this one in particular is similar to your Carcassonne-like tiles idea). The &quot;Zombies!!!&quot; games also work in this manner I believe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-06-05T17:09:26.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12136" CreationDate="2013-06-06T00:48:18.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;instead of tiles, cards. Less cost to produce.&lt;br&gt;Benefit: cheap&lt;br&gt;drawback: usually not square.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a pile of larger geomorphs with just the rooms, not the contents thereof; cards by room type&lt;br&gt;Benefit: sturdy board chunks, highly flexible mode&lt;br&gt;drawback: rooms fall into well known patterns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;movable chunks of wall on a gridded board&lt;br&gt;Benefit: extreme flexibility&lt;br&gt;drawbacks: component costs, setup time, easily disrupted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;laminated grid board with overhead pen, cards for what to draw.&lt;br&gt;Benefits: the most flexible&lt;br&gt;Drawbacks: lots of work, lamination required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T00:48:18.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12162" CreationDate="2013-06-06T03:41:32.460" Score="6" ViewCount="25045" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flipkart.com/funskool-game-life-board/p/itmda5vynhbmkanh&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game of Life&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBDIE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Game of Life&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't really understand the ending of this game. How do I become Bankrupt or become a Millionaire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, should I buy stock and insurance? Tragedies happens very infrequently and these cost a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5376" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T09:30:06.863" Title="Can't understand the end of Game of Life" Tags="|game-of-life|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12143" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:53:14.930" Score="4" ViewCount="1337" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I had a Creature equipped with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239965&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bladed Bracers&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent pulled out &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253704&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Switcheroo&lt;/a&gt; against my equipped creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Questions are:&#xA;1. Does he also get the Bladed Bracers with my creature since the creature was equipped with it?&#xA;2. If the answer to the above is yes, does my opponent keep the Bladed Bracers if I played &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=265715&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="1760" LastEditDate="2013-07-01T21:57:59.153" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T21:57:59.153" Title="How does Switcheroo affect equipment and Unsummon?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12142" CreationDate="2013-06-06T04:58:35.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bladed bracers remain attached to the creature and will continue to confer the bonus as long as they remain attached, but you are still their controller.  Next time you have an opportunity you could use the equip ability to move them to another creature you control.  (Note there is no &quot;unequip.&quot;  You need to have another creature under your control to move them on to in order to activate the ability.  In this case it's likely you do since you got one from Switcheroo!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T04:58:35.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12142" CreationDate="2013-06-06T05:15:35.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;#x31;. Does he also get the Bladed Bracers with my creature since the creature was equipped with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, He does not gain control of the Bladed Bracers. Since you still control the Bracers, you could use their Equip ability to attach them to a creature you control. (Of course, you'll have to wait until you have the mana, and for the stack to be empty in a main phase of one of your turns.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, until you reattach the Bracers to another creature, they do remain attached to the stolen creature, and the stolen creature will continue to get the benefits of the Bracers (+1/+1 and possibly vigilance). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&amp;#x32;. If the answer to the above is yes, does my opponent keep the Bladed Bracers if I played Unsummon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not applicable. They never left your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T05:15:35.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12146" CreationDate="2013-06-06T05:15:58.700" Score="2" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368535&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;, I know I add 1 loyalty counter at my upkeep. However if I have 6 loyalty my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I play the -2 ability twice or only once per upkeep?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My other question is can I play +1 and then -2 on the same upkeep?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T05:19:15.213" Title="How to play a planeswalker such as Sorin, Lord of Innistrad?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12145" CreationDate="2013-06-06T05:19:15.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know I add 1 loyalty counter at my upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;huh? no. Outside of the effect of a spell or ability, you only add loyalty counters onto Sorin when you place it on the battlefield, and when you activate its +1 Loyalty ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I play the -2 ability twice or only once per upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can't play it during your upkeep at all. Loyalty abilities can only be used &quot;as a sorcery&quot;. (On your turn, in a main phase, when the stack is empty.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can only activate an ability of a given Planeswalker once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My other question is can I play +1 and then -2 on the same upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, for the same reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;606.3. A player may activate a loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but only if no player has previously activated a loyalty ability of that permanent that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T05:19:15.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-06T09:39:37.273" Score="4" ViewCount="3580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Varolz%2C%20the%20Scar-Striped&quot;&gt;Varolz, the Scar-Striped&lt;/a&gt; out along with a few minor creatures. My opponent on his turn casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supreme%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt;. Before the Verdict resolves can I use Varolz's regenerate ability by sacrificing one of my lesser creatures? Will my Troll survive the Verdict?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5378" LastEditorUserId="5305" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T12:13:14.597" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T12:13:14.597" Title="Sacrificing to regenerate from Supreme Verdict" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12147" CreationDate="2013-06-06T10:15:23.583" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Supreme Verdict on the stack, you respond by activating Varolz's regenerate ability.  This resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supreme Verdict now resolves, destroying all creatures. Varolz's regeneration shield protects him, and he becomes tapped and survives the Verdict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obligatory comp rules citation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.8. Regeneration is a destruction-replacement effect. The word &quot;instead&quot; doesn't appear on the card but is implicit in the definition&#xA;  of regeneration. &quot;Regenerate [permanent]&quot; means &quot;The next time&#xA;  [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage&#xA;  marked on it and tap it. If it's an attacking or blocking creature,&#xA;  remove it from combat.&quot; Abilities that trigger from damage being dealt&#xA;  still trigger even if the permanent regenerates. See rule 701.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all pretty basic stuff of course.  Perhaps some confusion arises from the fact that Supreme Verdict &quot;can't be countered&quot;.  This just means that it counterspells etc won't work on it, not that there is no possible means of escaping the Verdict's destructive effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastEditorUserId="436" LastEditDate="2013-06-06T10:22:02.370" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T10:22:02.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12149" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-06T11:05:15.060" Score="18" ViewCount="15777" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I open a pack, and it contains a foil, this foil could be any card in the set, from basic lands to the most expensive mythic rare. My question is, does each individual foil card have the same chance of being opened? Or does it follow the same distribution as boosters follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate, if you were to open boosters until you got 14 foils, would those foils be in a distribution equivalent to the number of commons/uncommons/rares in the set? Or would those 14 foils be in the distribution equivalent of a booster (e.g. 10 commons, 3 uncommons, 1 rare)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crucially, &lt;strong&gt;can you supply evidence to support this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T14:14:09.017" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T18:32:41.023" Title="What chance do I have of my foil being a rare or mythic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|card-rarity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-06T12:36:18.450" Score="1" ViewCount="1240" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the 6th edition rules, squads must all fire upon the same unit. An exception is made if the unit contains at least one model with the &quot;split fire&quot; rule (6ED, page 42).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither the Devastors, nor Tactical squads, in the Dark Angels codex (6ED, page 103), nor in the Blood Angels codex (5ED, page 95) have the &quot;split fire&quot; rule. As a side note, some Dark Angel units have it but no Blood Angels have it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlC-8_Dd-Tg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;youtube video&lt;/a&gt; (starting at 6:50) suggests that the squads have &quot;Split Fire&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First question&lt;/strong&gt;: where in the 6ED rules is it specified that Devastator squads have split fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second question&lt;/strong&gt;: do Tactical squads have split fire? If so, where in the 6ED rules is that specified?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastEditorUserId="5313" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T09:37:56.770" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T20:28:32.257" Title="Space Marine squads and &quot;Split Fire&quot; rule" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12152" CreationDate="2013-06-06T19:11:09.840" Score="13" ViewCount="20696" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just a silly question, can you run 99 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Rats&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt; in commander? Maybe that and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphinx%20of%20the%20Chimes&quot;&gt;Sphinx of the Chimes&lt;/a&gt; and some juicy commander that plays off creature types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5373" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2021-07-23T13:05:43.167" LastActivityDate="2023-12-30T20:13:48.183" Title="Can you play 99 relentless rats in commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12151" CreationDate="2013-06-06T19:44:40.637" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, for the same reason you can in other formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first Golden Rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card’s text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. The card overrides only the rule that applies to that specific situation. The only exception is that a player can concede the game at any time (see rule 104.3a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'd have to ban or restrict the card to limit its use, but it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Printings.aspx?multiverseid=205082&quot;&gt;legal&lt;/a&gt; in that format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-06-06T19:44:40.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12159" CreationDate="2013-06-06T20:14:17.910" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/illuminati/y2k/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Illuminati: Y2K&lt;/a&gt; expansion for Illuminati. I'm a little confused about the &quot;double Income&quot; Special cards. These cards say: &quot;Play this card at any time to give all your FOO groups extra income equal to TWICE their normal income&quot;, where FOO is an Alignment.(Shown &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/illuminati/y2k/cards.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a sample image of Flower Power, the double Income card for Peaceful groups.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do you place the extra MegaBucks(MBs) on your Peaceful groups right away or do you have to wait until they would normally get their Income again, on your next turn? Other Special cards that add MBs state they're added right away, and don't reference Income at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Do these cards permanently change the Income of those groups, or is this just a one-time deal? Again, because changing Income is different than just adding MB, I'm not sure what the correct way to use them is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T05:24:08.377" Title="Income boosting Special cards in Illuminati: Y2K" Tags="|illuminati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-07T01:07:51.563" Score="7" ViewCount="2207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I fairly new to the Regeneration deal I have a question about regenerating Hydra creatures with +1/+1 counters on them. My friend seems to think that if he &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;s, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supreme%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt;s, or any destroy creatures/target creature on my side of the field, that I can't use the regeneraton effect from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20Charm&quot;&gt;Golgari Charm&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primordial%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Primordial Hydra&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savageborn%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Savageborn Hydra&lt;/a&gt;. He thinks that they become 0/0's and the counters thus go away so regenerating a Hydra with no +1/+1 counters on it since I cant recast it means my Hydras are dead. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5378" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T11:19:13.777" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T11:19:13.777" Title="Can a 0/0 creature with +1/+1 counters on it (like a Hydra) be regenerated?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12154" CreationDate="2013-06-07T01:13:10.597" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those two spells Destroy. Regeneration replaces destruction, which means the destruction doesn't happen, which means it doesn't cause anything to go to the graveyard. If you cast the regeneration mode of Golgari Charm in response to Doom Blade or Supreme Verdict, your Hydras will be safe. They will not lose counters, enchantments, or equipment; they don't gain summoning sickness; spells targeting them don't lose sight of them; LTB and ETB abilities don't trigger; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.8. Regeneration is a destruction-replacement effect. The word “instead” doesn’t appear on the card but is implicit in the definition of regeneration. “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.” Abilities that trigger from damage being dealt still trigger even if the permanent regenerates. See rule 701.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regeneration will not save the Hydras from being sent to the graveyard as a result of having non-positive toughness, but nothing in the scenario you gave reduces their toughness (by removing +1/+1 counters or otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T05:43:44.363" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T05:43:44.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7743" CreationDate="2013-06-07T01:13:16.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually try to get the Healing Ring every time I play because the Champion of Chaos and Skeleton Warrior tend to hit me pretty hard if I encounter them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5378" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T01:13:16.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12154" CreationDate="2013-06-07T01:56:45.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the confusion stems from a belief that regeneration causes the creature to leave the battlefield, but come back(like persist does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the rules just says to remove the damage and remove the creature from combat &lt;strong&gt;Instead&lt;/strong&gt; of destroying it(it's a replacement effect).  It is continuously on the battlefield during the entire process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T01:56:45.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12151" CreationDate="2013-06-07T02:35:50.463" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dragonhighlander.net/EDH_Forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&amp;amp;t=127&amp;amp;start=17&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon (EDH Rules Committee) has answered&lt;/a&gt; this question directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RC has discussed it and for the time being thinks that multiple Rats is OK. We reserve the right to change our minds down the road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although some rules differ from the official MtG rules (i.e. &amp;quot;outside the game&amp;quot; ,&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Wish&quot;&gt;Living Wish&lt;/a&gt;, is handled differently than other casual formats), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Rats&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt;' ability is &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130429.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;covered in CR 112.6m&lt;/a&gt;. If Relentless Rats were banned in EDH, you couldn't use any copies, but since it isn't you may use any amount from 0-99 copies because [CR 112.6m] specifically allows you to ignore [CR 903.5b].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6m &lt;strong&gt;An ability that modifies the rules for deck construction functions before the game begins.&lt;/strong&gt; Such an ability modifies not just the Comprehensive Rules, but also the Magic: The Gathering Tournament Rules and &lt;strong&gt;any other documents that set the deck construction rules for a specific Constructed format&lt;/strong&gt;. However, such an ability can’t affect the format legality of a card, including whether it’s banned or restricted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.1. In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander. The Commander variant was created and popularized by fans; an independent rules committee maintains additional resources at &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;. The Commander variant uses all the normal rules for a Magic game, with the following additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.5b Other than basic lands, each card in a Commander deck must have a different English name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T02:35:50.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12153" CreationDate="2013-06-07T03:43:48.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards are a one-time effect.  Whenever you play it, collect income twice for each aligned group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/illuminati/img/illuminati_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Collect Income. For each Group that has an&#xA;  Income, draw that income from the bank. Put the&#xA;  money directly on that card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-06-07T05:24:08.377" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T05:24:08.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12141" CreationDate="2013-06-07T12:33:32.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for The Game of Life have changed over time. In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Life%281977vers%29.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1977&lt;/a&gt; version the following happens when you reach the end (Day of Reckoning):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DtE1i.png&quot; alt=&quot;1977 Rules&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Life,_the_game_of_%281991%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1991&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Life_the_game_of_2000.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2000&lt;/a&gt; versions the following happens when you reach the end (Retirement):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lrPvU.png&quot; alt=&quot;1991 Rules&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T12:33:32.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12027" CreationDate="2013-06-07T13:34:07.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to say how frustrating it is that there aren't more resources online for how to teach bridge to new players who are already familiar with card taking games. My group of friends loves playing cards but are spending time playing simple games line Hearts, spades, and Euchre. My girlfriend has expressed interest in learning bridge but I don't know how to get started to try and teach 3 of our friends the game. For the advice to teach the most popular system in the area- I don't even know where to start. I'm in america but it would be suicide to try and teach standard american and several conventions to people who currently don't know what a dummy hand is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that bridge can be played starting out with just natural bidding and no conventions at all- once people get more comfortable with that then express other options for bidding that have a bit more information. But seriously... In searching for resources online for how to best teach beginners to play when sitting down at the table I just can't find much out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5383" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T13:34:07.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12141" CreationDate="2013-06-07T14:25:51.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the 1977 version, basically you have two choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to win by having the most money. You move towards the Millionaire space.  Once everyone has reached one of the two end spaces, the person with the most money at the Millionaire space wins, UNLESS someone successfully completes choice 2.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to win by sheer dumb luck.  Pick a number between 1 and 10, then spin.  If you spin the number you chose, you immediately win and everyone else loses.  The game is over.  Otherwise, you lose.  Even if you end up having more money than anyone who goes to the Millionaire space, you have still lost if you tried for this option and didn't spin your number.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T14:25:51.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3749" CreationDate="2013-06-07T20:32:34.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lesson 5 of the ACBL website's Teachers' manuals give a comprehensive explanation of Gerber and Blackwood conventions with lots of examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5385" LastActivityDate="2013-06-07T20:32:34.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12166" CreationDate="2013-06-07T22:38:43.163" Score="2" ViewCount="2637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if I correctly understand what order the phases would be when playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bButcher%20of%20Malakir%5d&quot;&gt;Butcher of Malakir&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFalkenrath%20Noble%5d&quot;&gt;Falkenrath Noble&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the description causes confusion as it basically says &quot;if creature OR another creature&quot; dies. Is this singular or plural, for example does &quot;Whenever &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFalkenrath%20Noble%5d&quot;&gt;Falkenrath Noble&lt;/a&gt; or another creature dies&quot; apply to all creatures that might die during this turn or if 5 creatures die then the affect only takes place once for &quot;another creature&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a 3 player game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One opponent attacks me with six 5/5 creatures. He has no other creatures on the battlefield. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I choose to block with six 1/1 creatures. So all my creatures will die. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would all his creature would be sacrificed because of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bButcher%20of%20Malakir%5d&quot;&gt;Butcher of Malakir&lt;/a&gt;, and he also loses 12 life at the end of his turn or as creatures are dying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One opponent attacks me with six 1/1 creatures and has no other creatures on the battlefield. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I block with three 1/1 creatures. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the following would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My three 1/1 creatures and three of his 1/1 creatures die due to the equal power/toughness, and because 3 of my creatures died then his other 3 creatures are sacrificed before they have a chance to attack me. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My three 1/1 creatures and three of his 1/1 creature die, but his remaining 3 creatures deal damage to me before they have to be sacrificed? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T21:49:12.037" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T10:29:26.867" Title="What is the proper way way to play Butcher of Malakir and Falkenrath Noble?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12164" CreationDate="2013-06-07T23:07:17.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Your first scenario:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are attacked by Aaron the attacker, and Oliver is a third player who is observing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your six creatures a dealt damage. They go to the Graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Six triggers go on the stack for your opponents to sac creatures. Six triggers go on the stack for you to gain 1 life and target player (not necessarily Aaron) to lose 1 life. You choose the order in which these go on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the life triggers resolve, the target of them loses life and you gain life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the sac triggers resolve, both Aaron and Oliver have to sac a creature. For each creature they sacrifice, a trigger from Falkenrath Noble goes on the stack and resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if Oliver and Aaron both have six creatures, a total of 18 life will be gained by you, and 18 life lost by Oliver and Aaron (since each is a separate trigger, you can have 9 go to one and 9 go to the other, or all 18 to one and none to the other. You could even deal some to yourself if you wanted, but in this deck that's unlikely...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Your second scenario:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creatures still deal damage to you. All the damage happens at the same time, and it isn't until your blockers are dealt damage that they go to the graveyard and trigger the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you can expect you to lose your 3 (3 butcher triggers, 3 noble triggers) and Aaron to lose 3 (3 noble triggers). You also lose 3 life from the 3 that got through. When the butcher triggers resolve, Aaron and Oliver both sac 3 creatures, which makes 6 noble triggers (assuming Oliver had enough creatures). So you're looking at 12 noble triggers in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T21:43:12.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12164" CreationDate="2013-06-07T23:14:03.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the creatures are dying, more or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butcher of Malakir's ability triggers 6 times. Falkenrath Noble's ability triggers 6 times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place the ability on the stack in the order you desire (since they're all yours): [Doesn't really matter]&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butcher of Malakir's ability is put on the stack 6 times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Falkenrath Noble's ability is put on the stack 6 times targeting whoever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Falkenrath Noble's ability #6 resolves:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The targeted player loses one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat step #3 for the other 5 instances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butcher of Malakir's ability #6 resolves:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent sacrifice one of his 5/5s. Falkenrath Noble's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Falkenrath Noble's ability is placed on the stack targeting whoever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Falkenrath Noble's ability resolves:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The targeted player loses one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps #5-#7 for the other 5 instances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If the other opponent has creatures too, there will be more triggers added in step #6.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So before moving from the Combat Damage Step to the End of Combat Step,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or more players lost a total 12 life (one at a time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gained 12 life (one at a time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each opponent sacrificed 6 creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's #2 (you take damage) because all combat damage is dealt simultaneously&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simultaneously, &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your three 1/1s deal one damage to each of his 1/1s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three of his 1/1s deal one damage to each of your 1/1s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other three of his 1/1s deal one damage each to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs are performed simultaneously:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You lose the game if you have non-positive life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your 1/1s are destroyed. (Butcher of Malakir's ability triggers three times. Falkenrath Noble triggers three times.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His three 1/1s with one damage marked are destroyed. (Falkenrath Noble's ability triggers three times.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put the nine triggered abilites on the stack in the order you desire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All combat damage dealt &lt;em&gt;by the creatures participating in that Combat Damage Step&lt;/em&gt; is dealt simultaneously, to be specific. Creatures with First Strike and creatures without participate in different Combat Damage Steps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2019-05-23T10:29:26.867" LastActivityDate="2019-05-23T10:29:26.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12168" CreationDate="2013-06-08T04:57:36.230" Score="4" ViewCount="7864" Body="&lt;p&gt;With cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=129744&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spirit link&lt;/a&gt; does the controller of the spirit link gain the life or does the controller of the creature that is dealing the damage gain the life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card is worded so that it says &quot;...whenever enchanted creature deals damage, you gain that much life.&quot; does this mean you as the controller of the creature or the controller of the enchantment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Life link&lt;/a&gt; is very clear. It says the controller of the creature, but does spirit link not give the creature life link?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:41:24.933" Title="Life Link on an opponents creature by enchantment" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12167" CreationDate="2013-06-08T05:49:39.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You&lt;/strong&gt; on a card always means the cards controller, or owner if it has no controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.5. The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4e An Aura's controller is separate from the enchanted object's controller or the enchanted player; the two need not be the same. If an Aura enchants an object, changing control of the object doesn't change control of the Aura, and vice versa. Only the Aura's controller can activate its abilities. However, if the Aura grants an ability to the enchanted object (with &amp;quot;gains&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;has&amp;quot;), the enchanted object's controller is the only one who can activate that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spirit%20Link&quot;&gt;Spirit Link&lt;/a&gt; does not grant the enchanted creature Lifelink, which is a Keyword ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15a Lifelink is a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15b Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much life (in addition to any other results that damage causes). See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3f Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller to gain that much life, in addition to the damage’s other results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a triggered ability that triggers whenever the enchanted creature deals damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3c Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and include (and usually begin with) the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an important distinction, because if the controller of Spirit Link has less life than the Power of the creature, it can deal sufficient damage to kill the Spirit Link's controller, causing them to lose the game as a state-based effect before Spirit Link triggered ability will gain them back the life they lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3b If a player’s life total is 0 or less, he or she loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4d If an object that would be owned by a player who has left the game would be created in any zone, it isn’t created. If a triggered ability that would be controlled by a player who has left the game would be put onto the stack, it isn’t put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:41:24.933" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:41:24.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12173" CreationDate="2013-06-08T10:37:32.947" Score="9" ViewCount="2132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some abilities have a [Click] cost to them, such as Crypsis' ability to add a virus counter to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it count as a &quot;paid ability&quot; for the purposes of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Run Timeline&lt;/a&gt;? I.e. could I, mid-run, add a virus counter to Crypsis for the cost of one [Click]?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T16:02:16.847" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T22:13:20.453" Title="Can abilities with a [Click] cost be used during a run?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12171" CreationDate="2013-06-08T10:46:51.417" Score="8" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you can't advance something that is non-advanceable, but what about the Runner? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_news.asp?eidn=4134&quot;&gt;Opening Moves Data Pack&lt;/a&gt;, there is a card called &quot;Queen's Gambit&quot; (according to the pics). It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place up to 3 advancement tokens on an unrezzed card in a remote server. Gain 2[Credits] for each advancement token placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone say that works? The Runner doesn't know what can be advanced or not..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T21:07:48.130" Title="Placing advancements on non-advanceable cards" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12170" CreationDate="2013-06-08T11:30:18.537" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Queen's gambit doesn't specify that the card has to be able to be advanced. If you compare it to Matrix Analyzer, you will see the difference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the Runner encounters Matrix Analyzer, you may pay 1 [Credits] to place 1 advancement  token on a card that can be advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the Advance action is used to advance cards. This is where the corp pays 1C and 1click to place an advancement counter on a card which can be advanced. When another card places advancement counters, its not actually &quot;advancing&quot; the card, and so it doesn't need to be an advanceable card. However, most effects which add advancement counters specify the card has to be advanceable. The only exception at the moment is Queen's Gambit, since the runner obviously won't know, and is in fact gambling that the card &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; advanceable, to avoid helping the corp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-06-08T11:39:55.177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T11:39:55.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12169" CreationDate="2013-06-08T11:44:24.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the rules state that abilities with a Click cost can only be used as an action. So since a run is an action you must wait for the run to finish before activating Crypsis. (Or use it before the run.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T11:44:24.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12169" CreationDate="2013-06-08T15:55:32.900" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. If an ability has a [Click] as part of its cost, it can only be used as a main action in the controlling player's turn. It cannot be used on the other player's turn or during a run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) page 21, under Paid Abilities (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Paid abilities can be triggered at the beginning of each turn, &#xA;  before and after each player action, and at certain points during &#xA;  a run, &lt;strong&gt;unless the ability requires a click, in which case it must be &#xA;  triggered as an action&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-06-08T15:55:32.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12175" CreationDate="2013-06-09T07:56:15.607" Score="38" ViewCount="18590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a prototype of a board game for which I need to design several cards. The cards will have several features like &lt;strong&gt;name&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;picture&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;text&lt;/strong&gt; and some additional symbols. I am not sure which program would be the best for designing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First I thought about &lt;strong&gt;LaTeX&lt;/strong&gt; - I have a template for generating the cards. The biggest advantage is, that when I decide to make a change in design, it is instantly applied to all the cards using this template. The disadvantage is, that making a design in TeX is a painful process and some special features are not very easy to manage in it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second choice would be &lt;strong&gt;Inkscape&lt;/strong&gt; or similar vector-based editor. Is there some free library or model, which would make it easier to design a card from a scratch? What approach would you suggest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any tips!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5388" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:32:32.940" LastActivityDate="2021-01-03T12:47:46.073" Title="Which program to chose when designing my own cards?" Tags="|game-design|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="1" ClosedDate="2021-01-04T03:29:49.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2013-06-09T09:50:26.793" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT (April 2017):&lt;/strong&gt; I released the SVG-based software described in my original answer below for playing card design as a desktop application.  You can learn more here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cardcreatr.shane.guru&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cardcreatr.shane.guru&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; I use custom SVG when designing playing cards.  Inkscape uses SVG as its backend format.  Coming from a web development background, I found SVG to be easier to learn than something like LaTeX.  (It's just XML.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a single external CSS file and a Ruby script using the &quot;builder&quot; library to construct the SVGs from a database.  If you don't want to use a script to generate your SVGs, it is also possible to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.w3.org/TR/SVGParamPrimer/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pass parameters to your SVG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most difficult aspect of SVG I have found is its compatibility with other formats.  The only SVG rendering enging I've found to do a reliably good job is &lt;a href=&quot;http://xmlgraphics.apache.org/batik/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Apache Batik&lt;/a&gt;.  You can use Batik to convert your SVGs to PDF, which of course is a widely accepted format.  &quot;Squiggle&quot; is an SVG viewer that runs on top of Batik so that you don't need to render your SVGs every time you make a change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5389" LastEditorUserId="5389" LastEditDate="2017-04-04T07:12:36.070" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T07:12:36.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12177" CreationDate="2013-06-09T12:12:02.617" Score="5" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;(For example) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=talrand,%20sky%20summoner&quot;&gt;Talrand, Sky Summoner&lt;/a&gt; has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell, put a 2/2 blue Drake creature token with flying onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have cast an instant or sorcery that relies on the number of creature I control, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=massive%20raid&quot;&gt;Massive Raid&lt;/a&gt;, does that number increase by one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'm asking what the order of resolution is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T03:32:08.510" Title="Does an ability that increase the number of creatures affect the instant or sorcery that triggers it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12176" CreationDate="2013-06-09T14:12:20.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; the creature created by Talrand, Sky Summoner counts for Massive Raid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result would depend on the wording, There isn't a general rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spell are cast and then, after players have had the chance to play spell or abilites in response, resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a spell is cast, it is put on the stack, its total cost is paid and targets are choosen (a few other things happen, I have just put the more important things that affect this situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a instant or sorcery spell resolves, its instructions are followed in order (again, this is a simplification, but the more precise rules don't matter in this situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talrand, Sky Summoner triggers when a spell is cast, not when a spell resolves. Triggered abilities are put on the stack when a player would get priority. Players get priority before Massive Raid resolves (priority is the system that allow players to play spells and abilities), so the triggered ability is put on the stack and resolves before Massive Raid resolves. Therefore, the drake created will count for Massive Raid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a detailed explanation of how the stack and priority work, you can read this answer: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6019/2474&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6019/2474&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T14:18:26.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12176" CreationDate="2013-06-09T14:14:26.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is in the rulings at the bottom of the page inside the Gatherer entry for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Talrand%2C%20Sky%20Summoner&quot;&gt;Talrand, Sky Summoner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rulings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7/1/2012  &lt;strong&gt;You'll put the Drake token onto the battlefield before the spell that caused the ability to trigger resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; However, that Drake token isn't on the battlefield when you choose targets for that spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7/1/2012  The ability will still resolve if the instant or sorcery spell gets countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know why this is the case, you need to understand the fundamental feature of resolving spells and abilities in MtG, the &lt;em&gt;stack&lt;/em&gt;. The stack is a First In Last Out (FILO) zone where spells and abilities go while they are waiting to be resolved. Since &lt;em&gt;triggered abilities&lt;/em&gt; can occur at any time, the rules need a way of handling the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timing_and_Priority&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Timing and Prioriy&lt;/a&gt; for placing triggered abilities on the stack, as well as handling casting spells and activating abilities. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Talrand%2C%20Sky%20Summoner&quot;&gt;Talrand, Sky Summoner&lt;/a&gt;'s ability triggers in the middle of &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;casting a spell&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Massive%20Raid&quot;&gt;Massive Raid&lt;/a&gt; in this case), which requires completing all steps from 601.2a-g. This includes paying costs, choosing targets, and other things. Only after performing all those steps is the spell considered cast, then the next time you recieve priority, you place the &amp;quot;put a token on the battlefield&amp;quot; on the top of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all players pass in succession, the top object on the stack resolves. So, the token is created first, before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Massive%20Raid&quot;&gt;Massive Raid&lt;/a&gt; resolves and deals damage. It will count all your creatures on the battlefield when it resolves to determine the amount of damage, which will include the token (unless an effect destroys that token before Massive Raid resolves)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. &lt;strong&gt;Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell's controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.2a Triggered abilities can trigger at any time, including while a spell is being cast, an ability is being activated, or a spell or ability is resolving. (See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;) However, nothing actually happens at the time an ability triggers. &lt;strong&gt;Each time a player would receive priority, each ability that has triggered but hasn't yet been put on the stack is put on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that's not a card the next time a player would receive priority. See rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority.&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;The ability becomes the topmost object on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on the stack until it's countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-06-11T03:32:08.510" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T03:32:08.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11912" CreationDate="2013-06-09T14:37:08.093" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few reasons to take a bid here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding has gone 1C-1S-P. This indicates that RHO likely has fewer than 6 HCP. Let's consider a few different scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If partner has only 8 HCP, LHO has an extremely strong hand. You would like to force LHO to take a second bid at 2NT or above, rather than at the one level. 2SX is likely to be fairly lucrative -- you will most likely take 5-7 tricks in trumps alone (partner won't open on 8 HCP missing both top spade honors, and your 9 card fit suggests multiple ruffs are possible), while opponents likely have a game, which they will find if you allow the inexpensive 2-level call.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If partner has 12-14 HCP and balanced shape, 2S is likely to make and nobody is likely to take another bid; if you pass 1S you'll likely allow opponents to find a making 1NT or 3C, or even a making 4H if opponents have a good fit and LHO is allowed to make a 2H call (even worse, partner may double a making 4H if you don't warn that their spade honors likely aren't cashing).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If partner has 15-16 HCP and 6-3-2-2 shape you may find yourselves in a making 4S, but only if you speak up now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't give much detail about your hand, but with a known 9+-card fit and weak values you should consider &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1344/tom-au&quot;&gt;Tom Au&lt;/a&gt;'s suggestion of making a 3S call with a hand that suggests it will be the right thing to do. A singleton or a void with few HCPs suggests this, especially if the shortness is in clubs. A hand that is likely to take fewer than 2 tricks on defense should also consider 3S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T14:37:08.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11145" CreationDate="2013-06-09T15:21:01.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt; indicate (in Law 73) that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Calls and plays should be made without undue emphasis, mannerism or inflection, and without undue hesitation or haste. But the Regulating Authority may require mandatory pauses, as on the first round of the auction, or after a skip-bid warning or on the first trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ACBL is a Regulating Authority that does require mandatory pauses for skip bids. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/about/codification.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ACBL Codified Minutes&lt;/a&gt;, Chapter XII, Section A have this to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. How and When Made&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players should protect their rights and the opponent's by announcing, prior to making an opening bid on the two level or higher, or prior to making any subsequent bid that skips one or more levels of bidding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When bidding orally by saying, &quot;I am about to make a skip bid. Please Wait!&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When using bidding boxes, by placing the stop card so the LHO sees it (the skip bidder is responsible for gaining LHO's attention). The skip bid is made. The stop card is replaced in the bidding box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;C. Opponents of Skip Bidder&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All Players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When RHO has announced a skip bid, the player following the skip bidder must wait for a suitable interval (about 10 seconds). In waiting the player's manner must be one that suggests he is an active participant in the auction (the hand should be studied during pause). any (sic) obvious display of disinterest is most improper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Experience Players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Experienced players expected (sic) to maintain proper temp (sic) whether a skip bid is announced or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a director called to protest that opponents are not using the stop card but would expect to see one called if an opponent was clearly using the stop card only for weak bids. I have seen director calls after a player took far longer than 10 seconds to make a call after a skip bid and his partner took a bid at his next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T15:21:01.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11143" CreationDate="2013-06-09T15:28:56.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Essentially, yes you can. Simply do not turn over the card played to a trick until you are finished thinking about the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, East in your example may not pause to consider the whole hand before playing to the first trick (unless that is necessary to determine which card to play to the trick). Instead they must usually play immediately to the trick, and then keep their card face up while they think about the rest of the hand. The declarer is entitled to know whether you have a problem while playing to the first trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T15:28:56.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11145" CreationDate="2013-06-09T17:18:13.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one additional &quot;mandated time-out&quot; in addition to the STOP card: When dummy comes down, declarer is required to study the hand for a few seconds before calling a card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how closely dummy resembles any bidding made, that would be on the order of 3 to 5 seconds. To call a card quicker than this is highly unethical, and declarer's RHO is allowed to allowed to take this time in lieu if declarer refuses to do so. There is no inference penalty for opening leader in this case, as declarer has willfully instigated the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T17:18:13.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23011" CreationDate="2013-06-09T17:42:23.820" Score="6" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Sid Meier's Civilization, the &lt;strong&gt;Communism&lt;/strong&gt; technology allows another players' movement to be interrupted to prevent figures from leaving a specific square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly does this mean, does this mean that if my opponent says I'm moving from here to there to attack you, and I spend the &lt;strong&gt;Spy&lt;/strong&gt; resource to interrupt movement, I make him stay in his original square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it mean that my opponent must always move his figures 1 square at a time, and I play the &lt;strong&gt;Spy&lt;/strong&gt; resource to stop him in his tracks as he moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official answer to this somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5391" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:14:41.933" Title="What does it mean to &quot;interrupt movement&quot;" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10929" CreationDate="2013-06-09T17:50:17.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an important part of why many experts now use &lt;strong&gt;3rd and lowest leads&lt;/strong&gt; instead of 4th best, particularly against suit contracts. In this fashion one leads 3rd best from an even number, and lowest from an odd number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it takes a little practice to get used to, and of course must be agreed with partner in advance and marked on your card, this lead system has many advantages over standard leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-09T17:50:17.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12187" CreationDate="2013-06-09T22:17:07.713" Score="11" ViewCount="2930" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wyrm has the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1[Credit]: Ice has -1 strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parasite has the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Host ice has -1 strength for each virus counter on Parasite and is trashed if its strength is 0 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand this correctly, if I place a Parasite card on an ICe's, and use Wyrm's (somewhat expensive) ability to lower an ICe's strength, I can bring it down to 0 and then Parasite will kick in and kill it. Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2017-12-19T21:31:33.643" Title="Parasite + Wyrm combo - is it an insta-killer?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12188" CreationDate="2013-06-09T22:20:32.367" Score="5" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cell Portal has the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner approaches the outermost piece of ice protecting the attacked server. Derez Cell Portal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens after the Runner passes the outermost piece of ice: does it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to the next ice after the outermost piece; or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Continue to the next ice after Cell Portal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T08:32:21.460" Title="Does Cell Portal restart the run?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12185" CreationDate="2013-06-10T08:18:06.753" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, this combo works&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parasite will trash any ice as soon as it has zero (or lower) strength, regardless of how that strength was lowered (i.e. it doesn't only trigger from Parasite's counters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards that combo with Parasite include &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/datasucker-core&quot;&gt;Datasucker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you make a successful run on a central server, place 1 virus counter on Datasucker.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Hosted virus counter&lt;/strong&gt;: Rezzed piece of ice currently being encountered has -1 strength until the end of the encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/ice-carver-core&quot;&gt;Ice Carver&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All ice is encountered with its strength lowered by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T08:18:06.753" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12186" CreationDate="2013-06-10T08:32:21.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the subroutine on Cell Portal fires, the Runner must encounter &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; ice (again), starting from the outermost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just be careful with terminology; the run doesn't &quot;restart&quot; (i.e. no &quot;start of run&quot; effects are fired again), the Runner is just teleported back to the first piece of ice and must continue from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T08:32:21.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2013-06-10T16:18:49.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using GIMP to make all my cards. Since I make mostly print and play games, I have a single template I use with OpenOffice draw to allow the printing of 8 cards per page. After I have designed the card with GIMP, I save it as a JPEG, open the template in Draw, drag each JPEG file to it's place on the template, then save as a PDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5394" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T16:18:49.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12193" CreationDate="2013-06-10T21:18:32.887" Score="13" ViewCount="1017" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this complicated scenario: I'm about to gain a card (Current event reacting to: &quot;would gain a card&quot;), so I reveal Trader.  I gain a silver instead.  Then, I reveal Watchtower (Current event reacting to: &quot;gain a card&quot;) and trash the Silver.  Now, I reveal and discard Market Square (Current event reacting to: &quot;one of your cards is trashed&quot;) and gain a Gold.  I could even reveal Watchtower again and put the Gold on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how do nested events work?  Does the new event &quot;override&quot; the old one?  For example, when I use Market Square off of Watchtower's trashing, am I no longer &quot;gaining a card?&quot;  Or do triggers happen in layers, so once I'm done using Market Square, and resolving any other &quot;On trash&quot; triggers, I can go back to &quot;gaining a card?&quot;  If so, will I still be able to resolve other effects that trigger off of &quot;gaining a card?&quot;  (For example, I gain Ill-Gotten Gains, Watchtower it to the Trash, use Market Square to gain a Gold, Watchtower that to the top of my deck, then after those resolve, it goes back two layers to &quot;gaining Ill-Gotten Gains,&quot; and give everyone else a curse?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that made sense, I'm just trying to understand how the game handles multiple layers of things reacting and triggering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T00:38:52.340" Title="Reaction cards in response to reaction cards" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2013-06-10T22:00:04.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're doing basic prototyping for the game, consider using HTML/CSS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not as glamourous, but it can be a lot faster to move elements around to test things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll need something more 'shop-ish when you get to actual card elements design, but on the plus side you'll already have a template of what you want things to look like!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T22:00:04.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12191" CreationDate="2013-06-10T22:56:37.857" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key point is that &lt;strong&gt;you're not reacting to the reaction cards. Rather, you're reacting to what happens after those reactions resolve.&lt;/strong&gt; Thus there is no &quot;going back&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There actually isn't nesting in your examples. This is what should happen for your 2nd paragraph example. I've indented the reactions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Buy Ill-Gotten Gains.&#xA;Gain Ill-Gotten Gains.&#xA;Other players gain curse (triggered).&#xA;    Watchtower: trash Ill-Gotten Gains&#xA;Ill-Gotten Gains goes to trash.&#xA;    Market Square: discard to gain Gold&#xA;Discard Market Square.&#xA;Gold gained.&#xA;     Watchtower: put gold on top of deck.&#xA;Gold goes to top of deck.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no nesting; events are purely sequential. The cursing for buying Ill-Gotten Gains should happen as soon as you buy it (think of it like a &quot;triggered event&quot; in MtG if that helps). When you use the Watchtower, you're no longer gaining Ill-Gotten Gains, but your opponents have already taken their curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First paragraph example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Buy a card (say, a Copper).&#xA;Would gain Copper*...&#xA;    Trader: gain Silver instead&#xA;Gain Silver.&#xA;    Watchtower: trash Silver&#xA;Silver goes to trash.&#xA;    Market Square: discard to gain Gold&#xA;Discard Market Square.&#xA;Gain Gold.&#xA;    Watchtower: top-deck card just gained.&#xA;Gold goes on top of deck.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reaction cards are revealed sequentially, and their owner may choose whether to reveal them and in what order. (As the old Isotropic server demonstrated sometimes annoyingly, but very effectively, you can even reveal reaction cards multiple times. You can reveal moat 4 times for the same effect as revealing it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why, for cards like Horse Traders or Market Square which could have a compounding effect if revealed more than once, using the reaction requires you to remove it from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully things will stay sane and the upcoming Guilds expansion won't introduce a reaction card that can be revealed in response to someone else revealing a reaction card. On second thought maybe that would be fun...  Unless that happens though, there's no nesting, just a sequence of reactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*Trader footnote) Note that Trader is special: it's wording is &quot;When you &lt;strong&gt;would&lt;/strong&gt; gain a card,&quot; and the Hinterlands rules state explicitly that &lt;code&gt;if something would have happened due to gaining the other card, it does not happen&lt;/code&gt;. Thus Trader is like an MtG replacement effect for gaining a card. The original card is never gained. With Watchtower, you gain the original card, then send it to the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-06-10T23:13:44.940" LastActivityDate="2013-06-10T23:13:44.940" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-11T06:18:01.077" Score="11" ViewCount="2008" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I were playing Settlers of Catan and she moved the robber onto one of the numbers where only my settlement was. She took her hand off of the robber and told me to spread my cards. I was out of cards and told her I had none for her  to steal. She then grabbed the robber, said &quot;just kidding&quot; and proceeded to place it on another player's settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the robber should stay on the original settlement as &quot;a robber laid or placed  is a robber played&quot;. My wife believes that because she did not take a card from me she has the right to move the robber again even though she had already placed it somewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is right and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5397" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-06-11T08:21:56.733" LastActivityDate="2019-06-21T15:46:53.107" Title="Is a robber laid a robber played?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12194" CreationDate="2013-06-11T06:21:13.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly, the rules don't get that niggling in any edition I've seen. However, the number of cards you hold is semi-public knowledge (you're required to tell if it's relevant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would, however, in this case side with, &quot;You put it down, you asked to pull from his hand, you're stuck drawing 1 of none.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T06:21:13.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12194" CreationDate="2013-06-11T09:41:23.313" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Play Mistake rules (as defined by the Convocation of Dining-Table after the Monopoly wars of 1992):&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Core Code of Practice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all players are &quot;veteran&quot; gamers, they should agree in advance what constitutes an committed play error. In the case of an unanticipated situation, one takeback per player per &lt;strong&gt;game session&lt;/strong&gt; is permissable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If any player is a &quot;veteran&quot; and another is not, a casual player is allowed a takeback of any play mistake &lt;strong&gt;they have not already made once&lt;/strong&gt; (for example, you can take the robber move back, but next time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all players are not veteran players, any mistake is house-ruled in to not be a mistake for the duration of play, under the principle of &quot;we're going to forget that again, might as well not play with it&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Veterancy is defined by comparing relative skill and number of plays. Basically, if a player self-identifies as &quot;the hardcorez&quot;, &quot;I own this game&quot; (literally or figuratively) or &quot;a gamer&quot;, they accept the duties and restrictions of veterancy for the duration of play&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Specific Rule Exceptions and Extensions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is no way that the move would have been made given the public information on the board, and conversation is going on around the board, the player is assumed to have been &quot;distracted&quot;. &lt;strong&gt;A &quot;distracted&quot; player is treated as non-veteran under the CCoP above.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If play has continued to the point where an approved takeback is agreed by the majority to have a major effect on how the game &quot;would have played&quot;, then the mistake is house-ruled in as normal behaviour for duration of play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By contrast, if the takeback has had no effect on the gameplay, it is acceptable, based on majority agreement to allow a &quot;free&quot; takeback. Free takebacks do not count towards any of the limits in the CCoP above, and may be used even if the CCoP does not normally allow a takeback or if a non-free takeback would normally exceed a limit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player is a &quot;Spike&quot;, and losing because of trivial play mistakes would make them miserable, it is acceptable to allow takebacks above and beyond the traditional rules to an approved limit. This limit must not be extended more than once, and applies to all players, not just the Spikes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If house-ruling a rule away makes the game hopelessly one-sided or unfun, then special provision is made for &quot;infinite free takebacks&quot; instead of house-ruling the mistake away completely. (The &quot;You can't Block with Tapped Creatures&quot; addendum)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If any of the opponents is a dick about the play mistake, they are ostracized for the duration of the game until they apologize. No alliances may be formed with them, no cards may be traded with them, &lt;strong&gt;and no-one will pass them the pizza&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;These rules only apply to competitive games. In the event of co-operative games, a new convocation will be arranged, and rules will be devised based on the &quot;Pride vs Fun&quot; system.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Being a dick is defined by both majority consensus and symmetry (if I did it and you called me out for being a dick, when you do it, you are automatically considered a dick)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Judgement&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, if your wife hasn't played Catan as much as you, or there was conversation going on when she made her decision, the rules would permit a takeback (especially as it sounds like the conversation entered &quot;Grumpy Spike&quot; territory). As at this point, the playing of the robber has had no effect, the takeback could be treated as free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:28:08.613" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:28:08.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12194" CreationDate="2013-06-11T13:16:34.840" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real &quot;correct&quot; answer here, in terms of official game rules. It is going to depend completely on the friendliness/casualness of your playgroup. In a tournament setting, such a thing would need to be clarified in the tournament rules; otherwise a judge would need to be informed of the situation and make a ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My game group pretty much always tends to follow this basic rule: If no other player has taken an action that revealed new information to you after you made your move, you are still free to undo your move. Note that this action could be as simple as a &quot;whew, glad you went there!&quot; or an actual game-action such as playing a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, I think the rule would apply. Because the number of cards in hand is open knowledge in the game anyway, you did not take any action that revealed new information (showing that you had no cards shouldn't be considered new information).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you are free to enforce whatever rules you decide on... often if there's an uncertainty in such situations, we also just take a vote amongst the players, and see who is ok with allowing the take-back. There's nothing &quot;wrong&quot; with a rule that says &quot;you took your hand off, therefore the play is finalized&quot;, but in my opinion it decreases the general friendliness and thus the overall enjoyment of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T13:16:34.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2013-06-11T17:29:40.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like the method of just doing what you can in Africa and India without committing to a factory or additional resources.  You will lose both soon but it is better to invest the money into a navy that can escort troops onto mainland Europe.  Instead of dividing your forces and leaving small battles up to chance, concentrate your forces in one area such as a UK invasion of Western Europe, followed by a US occupation.  Or use the UK to invade and hammer Easter Europe and let the Russians through unscathed and ready to hammer the capital.  In my opinion the Allies have it so much better because they can coordinate and concentrate their military offensives and defense whereas the Axis really can't until they meet in Asia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5399" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T17:29:40.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12200" CreationDate="2013-06-11T18:51:32.810" Score="14" ViewCount="623" Body="&lt;p&gt;In many games I have played, initial editions (eg the 1960s version of Midway) use squares for their boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, later editions (eg the 1990s edition of Midway) change to a hex pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hexes get around awkward movement rules (like being able to move 14 squares, or 10 on the diagonal (&lt;code&gt;10 / sqrt of 2&lt;/code&gt; is very close to 14)), but I wonder when squares would give a better feel for the environment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1294/clue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clue&lt;/a&gt; it makes sense because they represent tiles in the hallways (and while you can be whisked around the house by being involved in an accusation or via tunnels, the hallways analogy makes sense). However, in a simulation game, I cannot see how squares could be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When are they a good mechanic in simulation game design?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-04-16T05:54:26.737" LastActivityDate="2023-04-16T05:54:26.737" Title="What reasons would a designer want to employ squares over hexes in a battle simulation game?" Tags="|game-design|board-size|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2013-06-11T19:55:22.233" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well one point towards squares is simplicity. It is a much easier system to grok (outside of weird rules for diagonals)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to consider is what your playing field is. If you are talking about a mostly open plain with very few obstacles, then a hex field is great as it avoids the diagonal rule cleanly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you were going with, say, an urban layout, then a hex system would have a harder time with all the straight edges (not impossible, but difficult) while also not helping too much, since diagonals aren't a huge deal with hallways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T19:55:22.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2013-06-11T22:17:29.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to cut down the number of lines, but use numbers to denote distance. Then you could allow people to travel multiple routes, so long as the total distance is less than X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2013-06-11T22:17:29.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12191" CreationDate="2013-06-12T00:38:52.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are multiple possible triggers, then the rules say that you choose which order they happen in. So if there are two &quot;when buy&quot; effects - e.g. you've bought a $4 non-Victory card when both Talisman and Haggler are in play - you resolve both, in either order. If resolving one trigger nullifies the other (particularly in cases where the &quot;lose track&quot; rule kicks in) then you don't get to do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your trashing-Squire-then-Market-Square-and-Watchtower example, there are two trigger points - first, when your Squire is trashed, both Squire and Market Square can react to that and neither interferes with the other. Then, when you resolve each of those, you gain a card, to which you can react with Watchtower. Thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Trash Squire&#xA;1Gaining an attack card&#xA;1.Reveal Watchtower&#xA;1..Top-deck the gained card&#xA;2Reveal and discard Market Square&#xA;2.Gaining a Gold&#xA;2..Reveal Watchtower&#xA;2...Top-deck the Gold&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the 1 and 2 blocks are interchangeable. So there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a little bit of a stack, but it's hard to make it nest more than this without a lot of very specific cards. One particularly nifty case is the interaction of Market Square and a trashed Cultist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Trash a Cultist (with an appropriate trasher)&#xA;.Reveal and discard Market Square&#xA;..Gain a Gold&#xA;.Draw 3 cards with Cultist's on-trash ability&#xA;.Reveal and discard the Market Square you just drew&#xA;..Gain a Gold&#xA;Then presumably resolve the rest of the card that trashed Cultist&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is that the second Market Square is actually the same as the first one - if you have no cards in your deck when you draw from Cultist, you thus have to shuffle your discards, which means you have a chance of drawing back the Market Square you'd just discarded. It's the same trick as with Secret Chamber (which, when an opponent plays an Attack, you may reveal to draw two cards then put two cards from your hand on top of your deck) - you can do some screwy stuff if you have other &quot;on-Attack&quot; reactions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Opponent plays Attack&#xA;.Reveal Secret Chamber&#xA;..Draw two cards, including a Moat&#xA;..Put two cards on top of your deck&#xA;.Reveal Moat&#xA;.Reveal Secret Chamber&#xA;..Draw two cards (the same ones you put back before)&#xA;..Put two cards, including the Moat, on top of your deck&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the important thing is to always remember &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; you're reacting to. Moat and Secret Chamber react to an Attack card being &lt;em&gt;played&lt;/em&gt;. Tunnel reacts to being &lt;em&gt;discarded&lt;/em&gt;. Squire, Cultist, Feodum react to being &lt;em&gt;trashed&lt;/em&gt;. Haggler, Goons and Talisman react to &lt;em&gt;buying&lt;/em&gt; a card, while Border Village, Watchtower and Ill-Gotten Gains react to &lt;em&gt;gaining&lt;/em&gt; it, but Trader reacts to &quot;would be gaining&quot;, a mystical stage that happens in between the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-06-12T00:38:52.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-12T18:55:05.877" Score="14" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the paper [1], the authors write&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;... the problem is equivalent to a card game played in Las Vegas:&#xA;   The cards of a shuffled deck are dealt one at a time and face up.&#xA;  At the same time the player calls the denominations in the order&#xA;  ace, two, three,..., queen, king; ace, two,...&#xA;  A &lt;strong&gt;match&lt;/strong&gt; occurs when the player calls the same denomination as the &#xA;  card dealt; the suits need not match. The player wins if no match occurs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this game actually played in Las Vegas casinos, and if so, what is it called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] F. F. Knudsen and I. Skau, &#xA;&lt;em&gt;On the Asymptotic Solution of a Card-Matching Problem&lt;/em&gt;,&#xA; Mathematics Magazine 69 (1996), 190-197.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5401" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:34:38.663" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T20:34:38.663" Title="Is this card game found in casinos?" Tags="|identify-this-game|casino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8347" CreationDate="2013-06-13T04:57:58.880" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some ideas that have worked out alright in games of Betrayal I've played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let the knocked out player control one of the monsters (if there are more than one and player knowledge wouldn't make much difference).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move the knocked out player onto the control team of another player's character.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start the game with some number of additional characters (controlled by other players in turn).  Players can take these characters over in the event they die early. This also works for guests who RSVPed with a &quot;maybe&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Explicitly have all of the characters controlled collectively by all of the adventurers, with some rule to decide who will be the betrayer based on which character is the betrayer. This changes the game quite a bit, but it's still pretty fun.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T04:57:58.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-13T05:46:30.307" Score="2" ViewCount="6343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I opened with 1H - Partner bid 2C - (I have 5 hearts, 12 pts, 3spades 3diamonds 2clubs). I have to respond, but responding 2NT would mean I have 18 pts (my written source on this is: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.math.cornell.edu/~belk/opening.htm#1.5Notrump&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.math.cornell.edu/~belk/opening.htm#1.5Notrump&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;With 18 or 19 HCP and a balanced hand, you should open in a suit (usually a minor) and then jump to 2NT on your next bid.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been told that in this case (the case where partner responded on 2-level) - 2NT rebid would not mean 18pts (e.g. that it's ok to bid 2nt here). Can someone point me to the appropriate material on the web that discusses this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="5185" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T04:38:36.577" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T05:31:54.280" Title="Opener's rebid of 2NT (system: Simple SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12205" CreationDate="2013-06-13T06:24:47.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ACBL booklet (quick reference) on SAYC can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/sayc_book.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/sayc_book.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that (page 3), NT rebids by opener at the lowest available level show a minimum hand. (Of course, that probably does not apply when responder initially bids 1NT).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your edit, it looks like you have some confusion regarding what a jump rebid means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A jump is when you skip a level, i.e. you could have bid the suit/no trump a level lower, but you chose to &quot;jump&quot; over it. For example opener 1D - responder 1S - opener 2NT. 2NT is a jump, as opener could have bid 1NT. In this case, it would indeed show 18-19 balanced hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After partner responds 2S, 2NT is not a jump rebid. It is a rebid of NT at the lowest available level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detailed reading, there is also a book by Ellen Pommer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1897106033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Bidding-With-SAYC-Downey/dp/1897106033&lt;/a&gt; which you might find useful (I haven't read it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T05:31:54.280" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T05:31:54.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12205" CreationDate="2013-06-13T06:48:59.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The SAYC card specifies strong jump shifts by responder after a 1H opener, further explaining that it invites a slam. This suggests a 17-19 HCP range with 5+ cards and a good honor holding in the bid suit (though I warn you that point-count is insufficient to evaluate many slam invitational hands, and e.g. AKJxxxx Axx Kx x is a 15-count that suggests a strong jump shift).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though 2NT only promises a minimum opener as explained by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1224/aryabhata&quot;&gt;Aryabhata&lt;/a&gt;, your first priority must be to show your support for partner's spade suit. Your proper rebid is 4S by the principle of fast arrival. You know enough to sign off: your hand is not good enough to accept a slam invitation (thus the game), and you know your partnership has a spade fit (thus the strain). Bidding 3S here suggests to partner that slam is still a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like to read more about opener's rebids after a strong jump shift by responder, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebum.com/strong_jump_shifts.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the bridge bum has a good summary&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; The question has been updated to make the auction start 1H-2C instead of 1H-2S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SAYC suggests that 1H-2C-2NT should show a balanced hand, 12-14 HCP. Be aware that if the club bidder is an unpassed hand, 1H-2C promises a second bid from responder, and so you're forcing your side to the three level with a 2NT response. You should probably consider a different rebid if your hand doesn't stop the other suits (especially spades, the other major, as defenders prefer to lead majors against no trump contracts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1H-2C-2H does not promise a 6th heart (as opposed to 1H-1NT-2H or 1H-1S-2H, which do). So if your 5-3-3-2 12-count is something like Jxx AKJxx Qxx Jx, I would rebid 2H. If instead it's AJT KJxxx QJx xx, 2NT seems better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T14:25:49.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12214" CreationDate="2013-06-13T06:56:40.517" Score="7" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my hand is not good enough to reverse, what should I do with a hand like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kxx&#xA;x&#xA;KJxx&#xA;AQxxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, a minimum opener with a singleton major, 4 diamonds, and 5 clubs (assuming that I'm playing Standard American or 2/1 with a strong NT opener)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I open 1D or 1C? What's my rebid if partner bids my singleton?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T00:22:47.240" Title="What general approach should be taken opening hands with 3=1=4=5 and 1=3=4=5 shape?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2013-06-13T07:09:21.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of 3 general approaches to this problem. Each of these approaches has its adherents, and most people seem to think that their own answer is &lt;em&gt;obviously&lt;/em&gt; the best approach. I'll list the 3 approaches and their major weaknesses (assuming opener has 3 spades, 1 heart, 4 diamonds, 5 clubs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open 1C, plan to raise diamonds or spades, and rebid 1NT after hearts.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some people prefer never to rebid 1NT with a singleton and therefore recoil from this approach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The main weakness with this call is that partner may correct to 2 of their major with a good 5-card suit and thus play a 5-1 fit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some players have no system to handle 1C-1H-2H if opener may raise on 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open 1C, plan to rebid 2C over 1H (and maybe even 1S).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the ideal 1C-1H-2C auction, opener has a 6-card suit. Partner may well pass with a minimum and two small clubs. Worse is that responder may have a good hand and you'll wind up in the wrong strain at a higher level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open 1D, plan to rebid 2C over 1H (and maybe even 1S).&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When partner has a minimum and is 2-2 or 3-3 in the minors, you'll end up playing in 2D when 2C plays a trick or two better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a competitive auction, partner doesn't know about your best suit -- you may never get a chance to show clubs, causing partner to compete in the wrong suit or to lead diamonds instead of clubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, you may notice a common thread to all three approaches is that your life is made more difficult if opener can't raise responder's suit with 3-card support. 1C-1S-2C is definitely inferior to 1C-1S-2S when opener has 3 spades and only 5 clubs, but if partner will bid on as though opener has 4-card support in this auction, 2S is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T07:09:21.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8347" CreationDate="2013-06-13T08:22:32.177" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the haunt, the game &lt;em&gt;tends&lt;/em&gt; to become semi-cooperative, with one antagonist. In those cases, while you're not controlling a character, &lt;strong&gt;you could certainly offer advice and contribute to group-thinking&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I certainly think that answer, in line with previous ones, is most appropriate, but if you're desperate to house-rule an alternative, &lt;strong&gt;how about this &quot;ghost&quot; variant&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your character remains on the board and has all their stats returned to their starting values, but cannot interact with anyone or anything (they're a ghost) and loses all their items/omens. On your turn, you can move according to your speed as normal, and then nominate a character/creature in your room and an attribute. Reduce that attribute by one on your character coaster and declare that the target character has a +1 bonus or -1 penalty in that stat until your next turn. This represents you messing with monsters by floating candlesticks at them, or the heroes fighting on in your memory, or whatever. If it's that kind of group, you could elaborate by describing in an appropriately thematic way exactly how you're causing the change. You could target a team-mate who &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; needs to succeed at that Sanity check, or pick the Strength of a monster you're all wailing on. Once a stat of yours hits bottom, you can no longer use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I doubt this variant would be over-powering. It doesn't even counter-balance the loss of a full-fledged character if you ask me. Disclaimer: I haven't tried it, but you could give it a go and report back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In scenarios where it's every man for himself (i.e. it becomes fully competitive with no one traitor), any further interaction you have with the game would just be king-making, so you should probably concede that you've been eliminated and resort to heckling etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T08:22:32.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8347" CreationDate="2013-06-13T17:07:41.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do whatever you and your friends like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a cooperative game, so you can continue to discuss plans and suggests moves with the remaining players just like you could when you were alive. The line between discussion, suggestion, and actually playing is pretty fuzzy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How far you can and should go with it depends entirely on your preferences and those of your gaming group, but essentially every group I've ever played with would be okay with a player continuing to participate exactly as they did before. If no one wants your input - they're all silently making their own moves, no discussion - then you're not playing the game in a fun way to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The suggestions in Dan's and Johno's answers are mostly just specific degrees of suggestion/actually playing. But I honestly don't think it's worth getting bogged down in a specific, regimented way of playing-while-not-playing, and I definitely don't think it's beneficial to modify the game to give you a token role. Cooperative games are the ideal situation - just be yourself, converse like you always do, and let the game keep going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T17:07:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2013-06-13T22:47:16.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the diamond quality is vastly better than the clubs, then open 1D planning on rebidding clubs; otherwise open 1C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the club quality is vastly better than the diamonds, then open 1C and plan on rebidding 1NT if partner responds 1H; the club suit can be expected to run in such a situation, and so how much trouble can you get into in 1NT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that if partner passes a 1NT rebid by you this shows 6-9 points to go with your minimum opener. If you can't make 1NT on power and the club suit, the opponents can probably make at least 2S (or 2H!); going down 1 or 2 undoubled is a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big misconception newer and intermediate players make is thinking that 5-card suits, by either responder or opener, are a preferable rebid; this is untrue; rebidding a 5-card suit is a desperation rebid to be done only in dire circumstances, or to reveal a 5-5. Both opener and responder should try keenly to avoid rebidding 5-card suits, and save such rebids for 6-card suits. Partner will preference back with 3-card support unless her hand is strongly no-trumpish, at which point the 8-card fit can be revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to Rud's statement about opener's raise of 1M with 3 card support; I have always felt comfortable raising partner's suit with 3 &lt;strong&gt;and a side singleton&lt;/strong&gt;. If partner cannot handle the occasional Moysian fit, I find another partner. (And I never have difficulty finding partners.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-06-13T22:52:30.113" LastActivityDate="2013-06-13T22:52:30.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12205" CreationDate="2013-06-13T23:06:13.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A non-jump rebid by opener of 1NT or 2NT shows a balanced 12-14 HCP hand (sometimes with a singleton in responder's suit). A &lt;strong&gt;single-jump&lt;/strong&gt; rebid of 2NT or 3NT by opener shows the 18-19 HCP balanced hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner's jump-shift in spades shows a very good hand, and a very good suit; you should always reveal 3-card support promptly, when you have it, by raising to 3S. If playing fast arrival, the jump-raise to 4S should show a hand both minimum in strength &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;soft&lt;/em&gt;, ie rich in queens and jacks in short or un-bid suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many partnerships play that a jump by opener is a splinter, showing 4-card support and a singleton in the bid suit; however don't attempt this unless you have already agreed to play splinters in more obvious circumstances. Unlike in my answer yesterday, this is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a situation where partner can read it without an agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions edited to change auction. This answer addressed the original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T22:46:33.537" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T22:46:33.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2013-06-14T06:23:38.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to give you the simpler answer you are looking for: &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent is allowed to pump up his creatures after you decline to block, resulting in you taking the damage, or you playing a spell or an ability to prevent the damage or kill that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say your opponent has a simple 1/1 and swings for 1; you don't block.  Because you do not block, he can now pump his creature up and swing at you for X.  You seeing this can now play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Holy%20Day&quot;&gt;Holy Day&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Incinerate&quot;&gt;Incinerate&lt;/a&gt;, etc. to prevent the damage or kill the creature. These spells are now on the stack, and because yours was the last spell played, it resolves first. He pumps his 1/1 up to a 4/4, and in response, you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; to kill it before it becomes a 4/4. Because you did not block during declare blockers phase, you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; block now, but you still have the opportunity to cast instants/activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5411" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T20:52:23.143" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T20:52:23.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="44000" CreationDate="2013-06-14T13:42:08.297" Score="6" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many games - such as Othello, Checkers, Chess&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, and Go - are played on highly-regular, square boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would the game mechanic change if you played an Othello-like game on, say, a Chinese Checkers board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other rules being equal - ie you can only flip in direct vectors from the piece played - would this be likely to be a viable game-play mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1 &lt;sub&gt;excluding variants such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-handed_chess&quot;&gt;Chess&lt;sup&gt;4&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2020-09-27T20:53:48.277" Title="Othello on a non-square board?" Tags="|game-design|board-size|othello|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12218" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-06-14T14:22:10.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;PanzerBlitz is a tactical-scale board wargame of armoured combat set in the Eastern Front of the Second World War. The game is notable for being the first true board-based tactical-level, commercially available conflict simulation (wargame). It also pioneered concepts such as isomorphic mapboards and open-ended design, in which multiple unit counters were provided from which players could fashion their own free-form combat situations rather than simply replaying pre-structured scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PanzerBlitz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T15:47:16.177" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T15:47:16.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12219" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-06-14T14:22:10.667" Score="0" Body="Avalon Hill game simulating the Eastern Front during WWII" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2013-06-14T15:47:12.613" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T15:47:12.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2013-06-14T17:07:48.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few notes on Nightfall, compared to Dominion (the only two games on the list I've played).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, the two games are pretty much the same.  I'd played Dominion first and once I was able to associate the mechanics of Nightfall onto the corresponding aspect of Dominion, playing the game came naturally.  Many of the same mechanics exist in both games, though with slight differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, you win by having the most Victory cards, which are bought using Treasure.  In Nightfall, the corresponding cards are called Wounds, which are the inverse of Victory cards.  Just like Victory cards, there are a limited number of Wound cards in play and the game is over when the supply is depleted.  The winner is the player with the least Wound cards at the end of the game.  So, rather than buying Victory cards, you want to inflict wound cards on other players.  This is done using minion attacks and other cards (more on this below).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Which leads to the biggest difference between Nightfall and Dominion.  While Dominion has some attack cards, such as Witch and Thief, the players rarely interact with each other except to vie for the limited resources.  In Nightfall, combat is key to game play.  All of your Minions (vampires, werewolves, etc.) in play must attack an opponent player or players as a part of your turn.  This is how Wound cards are inflicted on the other players. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You get new cards in Dominion by buying them with Treasure cards from your hand (including buying new treasure cards).  You can gain more Treasure through Actions (more later), to use in the currentbuy phase.  In Nightfall you buy cards with Influence, getting two Influence in your buy phase, but you can discard cards to get more influence during that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion you start with the opportunity to buy just one card.  By playing action cards (see below) you can gain more buy opportunities.  In Nightfall, you can buy as many cards as your influence allows.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion you play action cards which give you certain benefits, like getting more actions, drawing more cards, gaining more buys or more Treasure to use this turn.  Only the current player can participate in this action phase.  In Nightfall, the corresponding phase is called &quot;Chaining&quot;. Here the player will play at least one card from their hand, which can add minions to the game, attack other players, or gain some other benefit.  It is also possible to chain additional cards from your hand, using a color-based mechanic.  Finally, the other players can also add to the chain.  Then all the cards in the chain resolve, in the reverse order in which they were added.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both games use a hand of 5 cards, and at the end of your turn you always have 5 cards in your hand.  In Dominion you discard your entire hand at the end of your turn and draw 5 new cards.  In Nightfall your hand is persistent across turns, you just draw cards to bring your hand back up to 5.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, none of the cards played in your turn persist to the next turn.  When your turn is done, you have cards in front of you.  In Nightfall, your minions persist from turn to turn, until they are removed as a part of the combat mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both have similar models for discarding cards and removing them from the game entirely.  Removing cards from play is fairly uncommon in Dominion, but occurs fairly frequently in Nightfall.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because of the way players are for the most part isolated from each other, you can be planning your next turn as soon as you draw your hand. It also means there's little need for keeping your hand secret.  In Nightfall, chaining on another player's turn lets you play cards dynamically, potentially changing your plans.  The combative nature of Nightfall requires more aggressive and strategic thinking than Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, the biggest difference between the two games is the combat mechanics in Nightfall.  If you don't like competitive games, Dominion will more likely be a better fit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5414" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T17:07:48.763" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12217" CreationDate="2013-06-14T17:18:59.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the grid is even, Othello should play just fine, provided you change the staring cluster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; . . . . &#xA;. . B W .&#xA; . B W B .&#xA;. . W B . &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should do, with white moving first...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T17:18:59.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2013-06-14T19:49:34.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at Magic Set Editor 2.  It will let you define one or more templates for the structure of you cards.  Each template can include a configurable background, classifications (such as manna color or team association)  You can also define a number of editable text fields on the face of the card for title, descriptions and flavor text.    Then, in application Magic Set Editor, you can create empty instances of a template and &quot;fill in&quot; text and other attributes.  You need to use a custom scripting language to define these editable field and such, but this will let you avoid doing this tedious text editing you image editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5414" LastActivityDate="2013-06-14T19:49:34.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5746" CreationDate="2013-06-15T01:25:09.697" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;If an [EFFECT] would put one or more tokens onto the battlefield [INSTEAD]&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wording seems confusing. The act of doubling is an effect of the enchantment, therefore to the wording, two Parallel Lives on the field would seem to loop as one would trigger the other into infinite creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The initial spell/effect has you put a creature onto the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parallel Lives (A) has you put an additional token onto the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Parallel Lives (B) triggers the same time as (A) resulting in four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Going by the text, it seems that it shouldn't end there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming Parallel Lives (A) would react to (B) having placed tokens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming Parallel Lives (B) would react to (A) having placed a token&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Whenever&quot; vs &quot;If&quot; would have made this card infinite with just the two, as that word is what typically is used to denote potential for an infinite cycle to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need proof of the concept go buy two mirrors and put them edge to edge at a 90 degree angle and place an object at the center or place them exactly facing each other with an item in the center. This denotes &quot;Whenever an item appears, create a duplicate of that item,&quot; but two mirrors would also catch the appearance of the mirrored appearance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to say the wording didn't covey the comprehensive ruling in simple enough vocabulary/structure, so that is what most player would potentially default to in lack of comprehensive rules to refer to -going on the card text alone. It is understandable to mistake it as a continuous engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5415" LastEditorUserId="5415" LastEditDate="2013-06-15T03:52:09.680" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T03:52:09.680" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12235" CreationDate="2013-06-15T08:29:07.113" Score="22" ViewCount="2782" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect this is quite an open question, but I'll try to keep it on point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it depends on specific deck tactics, but &lt;strong&gt;under what circumstances should I consider mulliganing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thoughts are that, as a Runner, I can be quite generous with mulliganing. Didn't get the first part of my combo, or a decent economy card? Might as well mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a Corp, I'm always a LOT more reluctant to mulligan, short of three agendas in hand or something. I feel like there's a great deal more risk to a Corp mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does anyone have any guidance? How &quot;bad&quot; does a hand have to be to force a Runner mulligan? How about a Corp one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T16:21:58.430" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T16:21:58.430" Title="When should I mulligan in Android: Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|mulligans|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12199" CreationDate="2013-06-15T13:10:39.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the nature of your game?  Combat, commerce, both?  This might shape the role of movement in your game as well.  Hex-based maps makes movement slight less expensive, especially when trying to around obstacles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the player is trying to move their token from South to North, but another player's token is in their way.  On a square-based map, it would take four moves to get around the obstacle (W, N, N, E).  On a hex-based map, it would take only three (NW, N, NE).  This is assuming you're not using a facing/turning mechanic, such is used in Battletech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Civilization series on the PC also made the transition from squares to hexes.  My friends who play the game were all pleased by the change because it made movement smoother and less frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately you can't foresee where your game will go in the future.  I'm sure hexes where the right solution for Battletech when the scenarios were all played on an open battlefield.  But hexes make things really weird when you try to take the battle into a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5414" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T13:10:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11352" CreationDate="2013-06-15T20:45:36.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are acting as a guardian, you can &lt;em&gt;simplify&lt;/em&gt; a bit the part about the monsters movement  as you will do it and focus more on the parts of the turn their players &lt;strong&gt;can actually do&lt;/strong&gt; an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giving them a &lt;em&gt;quick reference card&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; you explain the things can help them follow better your explanation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also with many new people I'd maybe do a &lt;em&gt;pre prepared&lt;/em&gt; sample turn with just 2 or 3 characters and monsters to show them the mechanics of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1931" LastActivityDate="2013-06-15T20:45:36.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-15T23:19:27.967" Score="3" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;This example is from a book. South opens 1NT (15-17) with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) AKx (h) JTxx (d) Kxx (c) Axx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North has (s) Qxx (h)Axxx (d) Axx (c) xxx and goes to 3NT. The author (George Coffin) says that North ought to bid 2 clubs, Stayman, with four hearts. That's technically true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't fancy playing for ten tricks with a 3-4-3-3 distribution. Would rather take my chances for nine tricks with 3NT. (And I do have a bias toward NT.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a flat distribution, may responder jump directly to 3NT over 1NT? Or must s/he call a Stayman two clubs since he has four of a major? Which bidding systems allow a 3NT call in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T02:39:32.543" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T15:15:27.117" Title="Does one need to bid Stayman with a flat distribution?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12227" CreationDate="2013-06-16T00:30:14.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the hand given, you can sometimes make 3NT and never make 4H without misdefense. But change South's hand slightly to AKx JTxx Kxxx Ax and 4H has more chances than 3NT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 7 top tricks (3 spades, 1 heart, 2 diamonds, 1 club). At 3NT, you must develop two more tricks, and hearts seems like your best shot at that. You must hope for honor-doubleton on your right (run the jack; if RHO covers, win the Ace and play up to the ten. You will lose to the honor on your left and then your ten and long heart are winners). If the honor holding is unfavorable but the split is 3-2, you still have hope of picking up the fourth round of diamonds (duck a diamond, then play the A and K; hopefully they have broken 3-3). You will have held up the CA on the opening lead. If clubs broke 4-4 then you'll make if you were able to take 3 hearts but go down if you lost two hearts as you still must lose a diamond. If they were 5-3 you're always going down on a club lead (and if hearts didn't behave, the opponents can still defeat you with a club switch). If they're 6-2, you can make in the unlikely case that the 1-3 tricks you must lose before taking 9 tricks are all lost to the doubleton club holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 4H, you have a sure club and heart loser. In order to develop ten tricks, hearts must break 3-2 and you must ruff a club and a diamond, which requires losing a diamond, so you must be able to play hearts for one loser (which means Qx or Kx on your right). However, you make even if clubs don't break 4-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider some other hands declarer may have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ax KJTx KQxx Axx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KJxx KQxx KQx Jx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;xxx QJTx KQx AK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these have more play in 4H than 3N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this hand isn't a great example of a hand that would want to avoid Stayman. That being said, there are times when jumping to 3NT with a 4-card major is indicated. Here's such a hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKx KJxx Q9x JTx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a flat, meaty hand. You don't have ruffing values, but your side has a combined 29-31 HCP. Not enough for a slam, but very comfortable for game -- unless opponents can establish a ruff or two before you gain control. Let's give partner (South)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Qx AQ9x KJTx KQx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll almost certainly take 11 tricks in NT. On the other hand, in 4H, it may easily go diamond to the A, diamond ruff, club to the A, diamond ruff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T15:15:27.117" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T15:15:27.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12227" CreationDate="2013-06-16T01:11:37.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;strong&gt;ruds&lt;/strong&gt; has looked closely at Declarer's hand, let's now consider that of responder:  Qxx-Axxx-Axx-xxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start at 10 HCP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4333 distribution is worth -1 pt, leaving it as a 9 pt hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;None of the honours support each other, or are supported by a 10: -0.5 pt taking it down to 8.5 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ace-heavy: good for suits, bad for notrump; no ruffing values, bad for suits, good for notrump. Call it a wash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing 15-17 NT I would bid 2NT with this hand (matchpoints, and not vulnerable at IMPS/Rubber), as I (have learned to) expect my partners to accept invitations aggressively. ;-) (Somehow, good players always do.) Vulnerable at IMPS I might attempt 3NT, depending on state of the match, and how I expect the opponent holding my cards will bid at the other table; I want to duplicate his/her bidding if possible on this hand, and allow my partner to play it better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing how to, in conjunction with your partner, slightly vary your bidding for the state of match and conditions of the hand is an important and valuable skill. M experience has been that accepting aggressively and controlling the decisions as the invitor is easier and more natural for most partnerships. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, knowing the appropriate odds for bidding game is valuable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Matchpoints, bid 50% games (translates to aiming at 25 combined points).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IMPS, Vulnerable, bid 40% games (translates to aiming at 24 point games).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;IMPS, not vulnerable, bid 50% games (translates to aiming at 25 point games again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reverse this pattern for bidding small slam at IMPS: aggressively when not vulnerable and passively when vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T01:11:37.777" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12231" CreationDate="2013-06-16T05:58:10.523" Score="7" ViewCount="5429" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a 7 is rolled, and a person has more than 7 cards, do the cards get discarded randomly or does the card holder get to pick which one(s) to discard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5418" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T08:04:20.093" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T08:04:20.093" Title="When a 7 is rolled, are the cards discarded randomly?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12230" CreationDate="2013-06-16T06:09:31.690" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the card holder chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 11 (emphasis is mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player counts his Resource Cards. Any player with more than 7 Resource Cards (i.e., 8 or more), must &lt;strong&gt;choose&lt;/strong&gt; and discard half of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T06:09:31.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12224" CreationDate="2013-06-16T07:23:02.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no pro, but as Corp I tend to mulligan if I have too many agendas on my hand or when I have too little ICE. The Runner's ability to freely run your HQ and R&amp;amp;D on his first turn can lead to a really bad start..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T07:23:02.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12234" CreationDate="2013-06-16T07:59:36.687" Score="7" ViewCount="2987" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Seafarer's Expansion for Settlers of Catan, is the Road Building Development card applicable for ships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5418" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-06-16T08:23:10.483" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T06:17:03.403" Title="Is the Road Building Development card applicable for ships in Catan Seafarers?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2013-06-16T08:21:46.773" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Road Building Development Card can be used for ships or roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;Seafarers rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When playing the “Road Building” Development Card in a game of Seafarers, you have the option of building 2 roads, 2 ships, or&#xA;  1 ship and 1 road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T08:21:46.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12224" CreationDate="2013-06-16T08:59:21.707" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your initial analysis is pretty good, but perhaps overemphasising the risk to the corp.  The real issue is that five cards from 45 is a very &lt;em&gt;variable&lt;/em&gt; draw, and the results are a pretty unpredictable.  I'll examine the two cases separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Runner&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, the runner can mulligan fairly freely - there isn't much of a downside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvious mulligans:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No icebreakers, or only a code gate breaker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No economy boost, combined with high-cost icebreaker.  (If you have a cheap starter icebreaker, consider living without the economy boost - time is always on the corp's side, so press the pace while you can.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your deck's based around a key three-card combo or the like, and you haven't drawn &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; of them.  (But don't try for two; your odds aren't good enough.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you still need to understand what your 'typical' opening hand looks like, because you don't want to make the situation worse while trying for better!  It's important to understand the odds of getting what you want - they're often not as good as your intuition says.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if your deck is 1/3 icebreakers in a 45 card deck, your chance of getting at least two in the opening hand is only about 55%.  If you have 8 specifically anti-sentry icebreakers, your chance of drawing one of them is about 65%.  (If it's crucial to have one, you have the same chance again in a mulligan, of course, for a total chance of about 90%)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A runner deck usually needs to be more tactic-focussed than the corp, but that's mitigated by your comparative ease of draw.  Unlike the corp, you can afford to push your draws early if you're missing a useful element.  Understand which kinds of cards your deck actually &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; to open with, and be prepared to let go of ones you merely want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corporation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing &lt;em&gt;inherently&lt;/em&gt; more risky about mulligans for the corp - since cards are reshuffled, the corp gets the same chances the runner does.  The problem is that draws are highly variable, and the corp is more vulnerable to extreme hands than the runner, so - appropriately - you need to be more risk-averse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obvious mulligan conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Multiple agendas, obviously.  Three must be mulliganned, but even two should be strongly considered - it's too many to protect, and you don't know if you're about to draw a third.  (If you have 9 agendas in deck, your chance to draw two or more of them in a mulligan is only about 26%, so if the rest of your hand doesn't defend those two quickly, redraw.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lack of ICE.  What this means is highly situational, however, and depends on your opponent.  Against an Anarch virus deck, it's vitally important to protect HQ / R&amp;amp;D with &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; quickly, but usually not a panic to ramp to your high-power stuff - favour fact ICE over economy or power.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing Jinteki ambushes, on the other hand, it can be more important to get decoy servers up early than heavy protection - burn the runner early and he'll be more cautious about remote servers in future.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Economic development is usually more &lt;em&gt;important&lt;/em&gt; but less &lt;em&gt;urgent&lt;/em&gt; for a corp, but that depends a lot on your deck.  Weyland economy powerhouses shouldn't actually worry that much if they don't draw credit boosters to start with; there should be one along shortly.  NBN tag decks should consider drawing for one if they start with high-cost ICE and not enough ways to rez it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than the runner, the corp needs to understand what their deck is intended to do.  Corp decks are often broader-based than runner ones; you should be able to &quot;settle&quot; for a wider variety of opening hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mulligans are pretty low-risk in Netrunner; if your hand is worse-than-average you should try to improve it.  However, it's very important to understand what an &quot;average&quot; hand look like for your deck - if your hand is a better than average draw, but doesn't have the key cards you want, it's still risky to try for them.  You're likely to make it worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the mathematically inclined, grab a spreadsheet.  Your chance of drawing a card or card type in your opening hand, if there are N of that card type in a deck of D cards, is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 - HYPGEOMDIST (0, 5, N, D)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Excel syntax used here, but all spreadsheets should have something very similar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T08:59:21.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12017" CreationDate="2013-06-16T19:37:07.983" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bridge players hate guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing non-disclosure will basically turn the game into a pointless guessing game, with luck (and to some extent, the bidding system) becoming the predominant factor, rather than skill. This will surely drive away the good players, and all that will be left will be self proclaimed bidding theorists...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you cannot achieve 100% full disclosure does not mean you get rid of it completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current rules [of full disclosure, different systems] allows for (somewhat reasonable) innovation in bidding while trying to pit opponents on an even ground, making skill the predominant factor. Making skill the main factor, with the right amounts of luck, is what keeps people coming back. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-06-16T19:37:07.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12239" CreationDate="2013-06-16T21:02:53.053" Score="5" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Ticket To Ride for the first time yesterday.  I found myself wondering how many routes one typically &quot;should&quot; have completed at the end of the game if playing moderately well.  I assume this varies based on the number of players; more contention on the board means less opportunity to build for new routes.  I'd like to get a sense of this so I can calibrate my play in future games, and no one in our group has much experience with the game.  (Of course, knowing when to draw more and how to select them are related questions, but that's not what I'm asking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that there are variants of this game.  We were playing from a set that was just called &quot;Ticket To Ride&quot; and used a US map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T01:24:12.740" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T03:55:59.913" Title="How many completed routes is typical in Ticket To Ride (for each number of players)?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12238" CreationDate="2013-06-16T22:31:11.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the answer to your question actually varies less based on the number of players (except for at the very top end) than on what strategy you prefer to pursue. This is because the biggest limiting factor for the most part isn't route competition as much as it is simply running out of trains (or time, if someone else goes through their trains more quickly) to build more routes with, and those factors don't change as much with the number of players.  So how does strategy affect the number of routes you complete?  Well, the core USA version of Ticket To Ride supports a few different strategies, including most notably:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 'transcontinental' long-route strategy, featuring routes like LA to Boston or Seattle to NY &lt;em&gt;(tiny note: I haven't vetted any of these routes specifically; my copy of the game is at home and I'm not.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 'hub and spoke' type strategy featuring many roughly-parallel shorter routes, typically around the eastern seaboard and along the Mississippi River corridor; this might include routes like NY-Dallas, Pittsburgh-Houston, Duluth-Houston, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the transcontinental strategy, it's not unusual to have just two or three routes successfully filled, and to make a large proportion of points on the routes themselves, especially since the preponderance of five- and six-train segments run primarily east/west so they're relatively straightforward to pick up while completing one's routes.  Contrariwise, a successful shorter-route strategy will need many routes to work, often completing as many as 6-8 or sometimes even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that a number of players consider the base TTR USA set to be unbalanced in favor of the long-route strategy, for various reasons - a player who starts with the right routes to pursue that strategy is more likely to be successful than a player whose starting routes force them to play the 'short game'.  If you have the opportunity you might consider picking up the USA 1910 expansion for the game, which does a fine job IMHO of correcting many of the strategic flaws with the original game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T03:55:59.913" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T03:55:59.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-16T23:43:25.587" Score="16" ViewCount="1904" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The table cards were A,K,K,8,3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All four suits were on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player one had A,8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player two had A,3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a split pot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5421" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-17T01:20:56.303" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T18:06:06.553" Title="Who has the winning hand in this Texas-holdem scenario?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-23T09:25:05.107" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12240" CreationDate="2013-06-17T00:23:50.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best hand in either case would be two-pair with 8 as a kicker (A-A-K-K-8); it makes no difference if the 8 came from the table or from the hole cards.  Since suit also doesn't matter, the hands would tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it would be a split pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T00:23:50.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12240" CreationDate="2013-06-17T00:27:21.410" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is a split pot. Both players have AAKK8. You always make your best 5 card hand from the cards available. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_poker_hands&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A hand always consists of five cards. &lt;strong&gt;In games where more than five cards are available to each player, the best five-card combination of those cards must be played.&lt;/strong&gt; Any cards not included in the hand do not affect its ranking. For example, if player A holds 3♠ Q♦ and player B holds 3♣ A♣, and five cards 4♣ 5♦ 6♦ 7♠ 10♥ are available to both players, the players hold equally ranking 3-4-5-6-7 straights despite the fact that the player B's ace ranks higher than the player A's queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T00:27:21.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12233" CreationDate="2013-06-17T06:17:03.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Road Building&quot; progress card in Cities &amp;amp; Knights explicitly states that, when playing with Seafarers, you can play either 2 roads, 2 ships, or 1 of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T06:17:03.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12245" CreationDate="2013-06-17T08:50:52.227" Score="1" ViewCount="2019" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cooperative games I have played (pandemic, forbidden island, ghost story) share very similar mechanics in which players have to deal with different threats as fast as they can or they loose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other good cooperative game without that rush-playing style? I would like to try something that allows players to use more long term and complex strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2941" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:22:01.797" Title="cooperative game that is NOT like pandemic, forbidden island et al" Tags="|recommendations|cooperation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-06-17T14:22:54.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12244" CreationDate="2013-06-17T09:22:01.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2511/sherlock-holmes-consulting-detective&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sherlock Holmes Consulting Detective&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, in which the goal is to find the truth in the smallest number of steps. You can never lose to SHCD, you can simple have a very bad score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, each quest will give you either white or black swords. The game ends when the players collected 12 swords or more and they win if more than half of them are white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my favourite: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/78954/mousquetaires-du-roy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Les Mousquetaires du Roy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Ye King's Musketeers) is a semi-cooperative in which a player incarnates Milady, the evil spy of the Cardinal of Richelieu and all the others play Athos, Portos, Aramis, D'Artagnan and/or Tréville. Quests will reward the players but as they don't play against the game but against another player, the game isn't quite like a usual cooperative game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The game can be a 1-vs-0 up to 5-vs-0 game, or a 1-vs-1 up to 5-vs-1 game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2013-06-17T09:22:01.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12247" CreationDate="2013-06-18T14:57:09.330" Score="10" ViewCount="3375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the four move check mate &lt;code&gt;(1. e4 e5 2.Qf3 Nc6 3.Bc4 Bc5?? 4.Qxf7#)&lt;/code&gt; the fastest way to win a game of chess, or is there a quicker way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T16:38:42.910" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T09:41:11.100" Title="Is the four move checkmate the fastest way to win a game of chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12246" CreationDate="2013-06-18T15:12:26.640" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a quicker checkmate called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fool%27s_mate&quot;&gt;Fool's Mate&lt;/a&gt; which only takes 2 moves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moves that demonstrate the checkmate are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. f3 e5&#xA;2. g4 Qh4# &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T15:12:26.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12252" CreationDate="2013-06-18T15:20:26.537" Score="6" ViewCount="27159" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing Standard Constructed (Type 2) games so far but it seems that there are a lot of formats which are gaining popularity. I'm looking for the most popular ones which are recognized officially as well so I can attend competitive matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="1735" LastEditDate="2013-06-18T15:53:40.650" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T00:28:21.630" Title="What are the most popular formats for Magic The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12248" CreationDate="2013-06-18T18:00:08.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Big 3 constructed formats are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt;:  by far the most popular tournament format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern&lt;/strong&gt;:  also a somewhat popular format and is becoming more popular&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt;:  still fairly popular, but it's stagnant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also limited competitions, which are usually either Sealed(6 new packs) or draft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T18:00:08.773" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12251" CreationDate="2013-06-18T18:21:39.420" Score="3" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Battlestar Galactica, &quot;Starbuck&quot; has a special ability that when she starts her turn in space, she gets two actions instead of one. This makes sense because as a snazzy pilot, she can out-manuever everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what happens if she decides to move back into the Galactica? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, does she get two actions inside the Galactica if she started her turn in space and discarded a card to go back into the Galactica?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T20:39:45.927" Title="Do you get two actions when you return from space with Starbuck?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12250" CreationDate="2013-06-18T19:22:39.203" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, she does. The rule is stated quite clearly, no need to second-guess it. Maybe she's on such a rush from piloting that for the rest of the turn she can still get stuff done, even on Galactica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T02:24:23.063" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T02:24:23.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12248" CreationDate="2013-06-18T20:34:49.773" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The popularity of the different formats is a tricky subject. First, it's very difficult to define. You could go by total number of players (is there a strong community?), number of tournaments (is it competitive?), available prize pools (is it serious?), size of tournaments (there's a difference between 10 tournaments of 8 people and 1 tournament of 80 people!), or any number of other metrics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly (and most importantly) this is not a constant thing across the world. Different places (even as fine-grained as different neighborhoods in the same city) have different popularity levels of different formats. For example, I live in Calgary, Alberta. Down in the south, there is little interest in Draft, but a lot in casual formats like EDH. There is very little for competitive magic, even for just winning packs at FNM. But in the north, there are a couple places that draft regularly with multiple pods with fewer casual events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you asked someone in the south what the most popular format was, they will probably say Commander or Standard. In the north, they're more likely to say Draft/Sealed and if you force them to say a constructed format, they're more likely to say Modern than Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom line is, I think you're asking the wrong question. What I would advise you to do is to &lt;strong&gt;ask at your local game store what formats are popular in your area&lt;/strong&gt;. Consider looking for a secondary store to play at that might have formats you're looking for, too. Knowing what's popular nationwide or worldwide is going to be less useful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-06-18T20:34:49.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12248" CreationDate="2013-06-18T21:06:46.457" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/resources/formats-sanctioned&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WotC has a page with basic explanations of the different sanctioned tournaments formats&lt;/a&gt;. You can refer to this page to learn more about the various tournament formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Constructed formats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;In a Constructed format, you build your deck in advance, using the cards in your collection. A Constructed deck must have a minimum of 60 cards, with no more than four copies of any card (excluding basic lands).&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of popularity, they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt;: Standard (formerly called Type 2, a long time ago) is by far the most popular constructed format. It's relatively easy to &amp;quot;buy into,&amp;quot; since it only uses cards from the most recent sets, but players usually update their decks extensively to keep up with new set releases and rotation. The Standard metagame moves very fast because there's a major tournament every weekend, and numerous online events as well. Most Friday Night Magic events are Standard or Limited.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt;: Legacy is the most popular &amp;quot;eternal&amp;quot; format, meaning that it incorporates cards from all of Magic's history. Legacy has a fairly extensive banned list to balance the format (which is what differentiates it from Vintage). New cards still make a big impact in Legacy from time to time, but generally the metagame is more stable. Much of the contemporary Legacy tournament scene exists thanks to third-party support from major Magic vendors like Star City Games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern&lt;/strong&gt;: Modern is a fairly new tournament format. Like Legacy, cards never rotate out of Modern due to their age. Unlike Legacy, you can only play cards newer than Mirrodin block / Eight Edition (in &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; cases, an appropriate shorthand is &amp;quot;with the new card frame&amp;quot;). Modern is more accessible financially than Legacy. However, currently the tournaments tend to be a bit &amp;quot;seasonal&amp;quot; — many competitive players get excited about Modern when it's the format for PTQs or the Pro Tour itself, then ignore it for a few months afterward as they shift their attention to Standard or Legacy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vintage&lt;/strong&gt;: Vintage is the closest to an &amp;quot;anything goes&amp;quot; sanctioned format. Vintage players enjoy playing the most powerful, game-breaking cards in Magic's history. Costs of entry are prohibitive, however, and Legacy has a much greater following. (Many US tournaments allow some proxies, which greatly reduces the price barrier.) As far as I know, the best way to play Vintage consistently is to live in an area with a strong local community, but there are occasional large events like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bazaar-of-moxen.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bazaar of Moxen&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block Constructed&lt;/strong&gt;: Block Constructed has the smallest card pool of all Constructed formats, encompassing only the cards from the most recent block. Because cards are primarily designed for Limited and Standard, the Block Constructed metagame tends to be pretty stagnant and one-sided. With the exception of a small following on Magic Online, most people only really care about Block Constructed when it's the format for a Pro Tour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Extended is dead as a doornail.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note that support for Legacy, Modern, and Vintage outside the US varies greatly by region.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Limited formats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Unlike Constructed formats where you play with an already built deck, Limited formats require you to build a deck from a defined pool of cards. This pool might be defined by the contents of a few booster packs that you open at the event, or it may be from cards that you select in a Booster Draft.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two Limited formats are (once more, in order of popularity):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draft&lt;/strong&gt;: Booster draft using the most recent block or core set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sealed&lt;/strong&gt;: Sealed-deck Limited using the most recent block or core set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every Pro Tour includes a Limited component, and many Grand Prix tournaments are Limited. Limited is also very popular at the FNM level, at about the same level as Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Team tournaments&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely, a tournament will be a team event. These are essentially labels that modify one of the Constructed or Limited formats above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Team __________&lt;/strong&gt;: Tournaments that just say &amp;quot;Team Standard&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Team Sealed&amp;quot; involve playing individual duels, but players combine their scores to determine the team's overall standing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two-Headed Giant&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfr2hg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Two-Headed Giant&lt;/a&gt; is a specialized two-on-two multiplayer format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Most often, when players refer to a Magic &amp;quot;team,&amp;quot; they just mean their practice buddies. Top players tend to prepare for tournaments with other top players, because it's the best way to hone your skills and try to predict the metagame.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Non-sanctioned competitive formats&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many Magic formats that are not officially approved for DCI-sanctioned tournaments. To my knowledge, the most popular non-sanctioned formats &lt;em&gt;with serious competitive scenes&lt;/em&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Peasant/Pauper&lt;/strong&gt;: A commons-only format. &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/pauper&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pauper&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; is the name on Magic Online, where it is most popular. (Peasant and Pauper are different because of how cards are &amp;quot;printed&amp;quot; on MTGO — for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hymn%20to%20Tourach&quot;&gt;Hymn to Tourach&lt;/a&gt; is a common in paper Magic but only exists as an uncommon in MTGO.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duel Commander&lt;/strong&gt;: Also known as &amp;quot;French EDH,&amp;quot; this is a modification of Commander for two-player duels. Most popular in Europe. &lt;a href=&quot;http://duelcommander.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;It has its own official site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also not uncommon to find multiplayer Commander tournaments at major gaming conventions, but these aren't really part of a large competitive circuit with a defined metagame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Okay, but how can I find out what's popular &lt;em&gt;in my area&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://locator.wizards.com/#brand=magic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards of the Coast has a Store &amp;amp; Event Locator feature on their website&lt;/a&gt;. Note that you can search by formats and event types; note also that it will mostly show game stores unless you filter out events like Friday Night Magic, Prerelease, and Game Day. When you click on a store, you'll see a schedule of their events, which will usually give you an idea of the formats they support. This list is only as good as the information that retailers feed back to Wizards' staff; the game stores do at least offer a reasonable starting point — you can visit a promising site in person and find out more information about what the local players are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgmom.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTGMom&lt;/a&gt; is a calendar that lists major tournaments and qualifiers in the US and Canada in one handy page. Her list includes SGC and TCGPlayer events as well as WotC-sponsored ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For MTGO players, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/digital/magiconline.aspx?x=mtg/digital/magiconline/calendar&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Online has its own calendar page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T00:05:44.450" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T00:05:44.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12255" CreationDate="2013-06-19T00:37:04.513" Score="13" ViewCount="123007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently come back to playing Monopoly, but one thing that's intrigued me is the following card, in the Chance pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D6BOp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording says &quot;Advance to go (Collect $200)&quot;.  Modern versions, like the one I have in my home, are &quot;Advance to GO, Collect $200&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what exactly does it mean, when it says &quot;Collect $200&quot;?  Since there's also a message on the GO tile, stating &quot;As you pass GO, collect $200&quot;, does this mean if I draw the card above, I can collect $400 in one go? $200 from what the card says, and another $200 from the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5431" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-19T01:36:59.357" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:42:56.593" Title="Advance to GO, collect $400?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12254" CreationDate="2013-06-19T01:35:27.023" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you only collect $200 dollars, not $400. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm&quot;&gt;the official rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time a player's token lands on or passes over GO, whether by&#xA;  throwing the dice or drawing a card, the Banker pays that player a&#xA;  $200 salary. The $200 is paid only once each time around the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only land on GO once, so you only get one payout. The message on the card is just to remind you that landing on GO also pays out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there's nothing stopping you playing this variant as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Monopoly/House_Rules#Go_and_movement&quot;&gt;house rule&lt;/a&gt;, which is not uncommon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;According to the official rules each player receives $200 for passing&#xA;  Go. However, due to the Chance and Community Chest cards which&#xA;  instruct players to Advance to Go and Collect $200 - A popular house&#xA;  rule is that you collect $200 for landing on Go plus $200 for actually&#xA;  passing Go. Therefore, it is common to pay someone $400 for landing&#xA;  directly on Go: $200 for actually landing on Go plus the $200 as an&#xA;  advance for their next move when they literally pass Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T01:35:27.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-19T07:47:25.287" Score="5" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had my first game of Senji a couple of days ago, and it's clear that the starting positions for each player are very different. (Senji map: &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/LuHTA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/LuHTA&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 6 player game it seems to me that the &lt;strong&gt;Yellow&lt;/strong&gt; player and the &lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; player have a bit of an edge since their territory is easier to defend. On the other hand the &lt;strong&gt;Purple&lt;/strong&gt; player is surrounded by 4 out of 5 players, so seems more likely to be attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you think it is easier to progress in the game depending on your starting position? Does this mean your starting position will determine your strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3636" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:26:19.857" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T15:52:58.327" Title="Do starting positions make a significant difference in Senji?" Tags="|openings|senji|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-19T16:26:57.870" Score="2" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner opens 1D -- I respond 1H -- Partner responds with 2D -- (I have 3 spades, 5 hearts, 1 clubs, 4 diamonds, 13 hcp) --&gt; I'm tempted to bid 3NT now. Should I always get to game with me and partner both having opening strength even if we don't have 8-card fit? In essence, what do I bid here? &lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Bidding 2H shows 5 hearts, but not game values.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Bidding 3NT - we and partner might not have both together NT distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T21:32:52.233" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T19:18:51.310" Title="Bidding game (simple SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12257" CreationDate="2013-06-19T19:14:03.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good general principle is that when you have an opening hand and partner opens, you should get to a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner has advertised a 6+-card diamond suit (some people may rebid 2D with 2353 shape on this auction, but I prefer 2H) and has limited their values (with a good 17-count or better, partner would have a different bid). So you can see that you (probably) don't have an 8-card fit. You don't describe your hand completely, but if you have half a spade stopper or better, 3NT seems like the right place to play. If partner rebids 4D, this is game forcing and suggests some slam interest; it cannot be passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spades are bad, probably your best rebid is your 4-card club suit; if partner has a spade holding they can rebid 3NT. Rebidding your hearts is not very attractive because you only have 5 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T19:14:03.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12017" CreationDate="2013-06-19T21:33:13.967" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the bidding system is not disclosed, then it becomes trivially easy to cheat. With knowledge of your bidding system however, I can now determine that your bidding was indeed consistent with how you got to your final contract. (My system notes with one partner comprise over 30 pages of densely typed notes, and some expert partnerships have much more than that. It is not necessary to have such complete notes, but it can be useful, especially if some question comes up about one of our bids. On long drives to a tournament, my partner and I usually spend the time discussing these notes, often adding new points as we think of them. It all depends on your investment in the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, long ago, in a galaxy far, far away, I played a lot of pinochle. Partner and I developed a complete bidding system for pinochle, that was completely disclosed to our opponents. The only information passed was by the numeric jump of our bids, but we did reasonably well in passing what info we needed. Our frequent opponents were told of our system, and we explained the bids as we made them. Interestingly, after a while, our results suddenly went downhill, then we found out why. Our opponents had come up with their own secret system, that involved tugs on their ear, etc. We gave up the game completely, as there was no longer any reason to play, certainly against those opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is, without disclosure, the game is a waste of time, no longer a game at all. At the very least, it is no longer bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, bidding is indeed a major factor in bridge. If you think that just knowing what contract you are in is all you need to know in bridge, then you have a lot to learn. A huge part of bridge is correlating ALL of the available information at hand, bringing it all together and using that information to then play the hand. For example, did your opponents overcall? Did they bid at all? Even if they did not, it is still a case of the dog that did NOT bark in the night. Use all information to play the hand. Until you do that, you are still a novice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3264" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T22:28:12.807" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T22:28:12.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12257" CreationDate="2013-06-19T21:55:35.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The appropriate decision, ranging from (just possibly a) pass to investigating slam is critically dependent on the high cards in your hand. For instance, with these hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Axx        xx&#xA; AQxxx      Kx&#xA; Kxxx       AQxxxx&#xA; x          Axx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a grand slam is likely. Alternatively, with these two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; KJx        xx&#xA; AJxxx      Kx&#xA; KJxx       AQxxxx&#xA; x          Axx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3NT looks like the best contract, and if your 13 points includes distribution then this pair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;KJx        xx&#xA;QJxxx      Kx&#xA;KJxx       AQxxxx&#xA;x          Axx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;should be in 5D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all three examples partner has the same hand, better than minimum for his bid. I can easily seeing many partners bidding the same way without the QD, in which case all actions have to be a bit more restrained. Give us your complete hand, and you will get better advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-19T21:55:35.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12263" CreationDate="2013-06-20T09:33:43.800" Score="3" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The Question:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe I’m right here, but I wanted to get some consensus before I rely on it in a game: Can I apply the ability: &amp;quot;{U}: Untap Soliton&amp;quot; to a different Soliton than the one that activated the ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Brief&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ve been looking for an infinite mill combo using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSoliton%5d&quot;&gt;Soliton&lt;/a&gt; for a long time, and have been unable to find one, but I have come close. I now have a plan that will at least allow me to mill a player so much that it doesn’t matter that I can’t get the infinite mana needed to make the loop unending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Steup:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Soliton has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{U}: Untap Soliton&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStern%20Mentor%5d&quot;&gt;Stern Mentor&lt;/a&gt; has the ability to Soulbond, and if soulbonded has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Target player puts the top two cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If soulbonded to Stern Mentor, Soliton will also have the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Target player puts the top two cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a simple set up, of one Soliton soulbonded to one Stern Mentor, I can tap Stern Mentor and mill for two, then tap Soliton and mill for a further two, then pay one blue mana to untap Soliton, then tap Soliton to mill for two and so on… Assuming I have ten blue mana free this will allow me to mill for 24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Issue:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have two sets of Stern Mentor soulbonded to Soliton I can’t mill for any more than if I had just the one set because I am restricted by the amount of mana I have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Plan:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have several &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIllusionist%e2%80%99s%20Bracers%5d&quot;&gt;Illusionist’s Bracers&lt;/a&gt;. These have the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever an ability of equipped creature is activated, if it isn't a mana ability, copy that ability. You may choose new targets for the copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I had originally hoped to clone Soliton’s ability onto an island card and create an infinite mana combo, but then I realised that if I cloned the ability: &amp;quot;{U}: Untap Soliton&amp;quot; onto something else the ability would still be &amp;quot;{U}: Untap Soliton&amp;quot;, and I couldn’t untap the same Soliton that had just been untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m hoping that I can apply that ability to my other Soliton, that way, if I have two sets of Soliton equipped with Illusionist’s Bracers and soulbonded to Stern Mentor, I can tap one to mill, clone the mill ability inherited from Stern Mentor, do the same for the other set, then untap one Soliton and clone the ability across to the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow two to be untapped for the price of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we disregard cloning the ability inherited from the Stern Mentor this would up the mill to 44, but with the inheritance it would up the mill to 92. With 20 mana spare that we be upped to 184, that can be spread across as many players as I like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-05-03T17:38:49.970" Title="Does an ability that refers to the name of the ability’s card have to refer to that instance of the card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-07T17:36:49.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12262" CreationDate="2013-06-20T10:02:12.687" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The untap Soliton isn't a targeted effect; it only untaps the Soliton which used it. When a card's name is used it really means [THIS-CARD]. If it said U:Untap target creature named Soliton, then you could untap any Soliton, but it just says Untap Soliton, which translates as Untap ~this card~.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still clone the ability though, and one will resolve before the other allowing you to untap your Soliton, then tap it to mill 2 cards, clone the mill ability to mill 2 more cards, then untap it again, and mill 4 more cards! So you get 8 cards for 1 mana instead of 2 cards for 1 mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with a tapped Soliton, it works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;U:Untap Soliton added to stack&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bracer's Fires, adding a second untap Soliton to the stack (Has to be the same card)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let one untap resolve, stack still has 1 untap pending&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tap soliton to add mill 2 cards to the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a second mill 2 cards added to the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cards are milled, then pending untap fires, soliton is untaped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tap soliton again, add mill 2 cards to stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bracers add a second mill 2 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 cards are then milled, stack empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="1546" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T11:13:25.393" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T11:13:25.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12265" CreationDate="2013-06-20T11:30:13.343" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up to 3 Sanguinary Priests (Blood Angel Codex) count as a single unit choice, but how must we count the victory points for killing them?&#xA;Do all 3 must be removed for it to count as 1 VP? Or do each causality count as a single VP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T12:09:39.840" Title="Victory point counting and Sanguinary Priests" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12264" CreationDate="2013-06-20T12:00:44.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about this, but I had a look around for you and found this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/261515-sanguinary-priest-spam/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/261515-sanguinary-priest-spam/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in it, Xenith states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Individual models are each a kill point. KP is not based upon how many&#xA;  force org slots are taken up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Case in point being dedicated transports. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sorry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Hope this helps :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T12:09:39.840" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T12:09:39.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12268" CreationDate="2013-06-20T13:24:01.790" Score="4" ViewCount="1231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about this card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riZCy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aetherling&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my interpretation if I exile it after I tapped it to attack I instantly get it back untapped before the opponent's turn starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T13:36:01.457" Title="What happens if I tap Aetherling to attack and in my 2nd main phase I exile it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12266" CreationDate="2013-06-20T13:32:11.540" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say you are correct: you can use the ability at any time, and it always returns on the end step; if you used it just before the end step it would come right back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be very handy if someone suprises you with a flash or instant when you attack, as it would be for blocking seeing as you can pull it out once blockers have been declared but before damage is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T13:32:11.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12266" CreationDate="2013-06-20T13:33:02.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;you are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as long as you activate the exile ability before your end step, it will return untapped before your opponent's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not return instantly however, if you exile it during your turn e.g. during the combat phase, it will not return until your end step. If you wish to cast sorcery or creature cards with it on the battlefield, you will not be able to until your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-06-20T13:36:01.457" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T13:36:01.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12270" CreationDate="2013-06-20T14:15:03.960" Score="8" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunner.randomblink.com/cyberexodus/personalworkshop&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Personal Workshop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When your turn begins, remove 1 power counter from a hosted card.&#xA;  When there are no power counters left on a hosted card, install it, ignoring all costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Click]&lt;/strong&gt;: Host a program or a piece of hardware from your grip on Personal Workshop and place power counters on it equal to its install cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 &lt;strong&gt;[credit]&lt;/strong&gt;: Remove 1 power counter from a hosted card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am the Runner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have nothing but &lt;strong&gt;Personal Workshop&lt;/strong&gt; installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have 20 &lt;strong&gt;[credits]&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have 1 of each icebreaker hosted on &lt;strong&gt;Personal Workshop&lt;/strong&gt; with a variable amount of power counters on them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I start a run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Corp rezzes an ICE of type X.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pay Y &lt;strong&gt;[credits]&lt;/strong&gt; to remove all the remaining Y &lt;strong&gt;[power counters]&lt;/strong&gt; from icebreaker Z.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Icebreaker Z is now installed per the last listed ability on &lt;strong&gt;Personal Workshop.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 [credit] : Remove 1 [power counter] from a hosted card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can continue my run, but now with the icebreaker I need installed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5293" LastEditorUserId="5293" LastEditDate="2013-09-17T15:10:21.310" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T15:10:21.310" Title="Can you remove a 'Personal Workshop' 'Power Counter' during an encounter with ICE?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12269" CreationDate="2013-06-20T15:46:10.777" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Personal Workshop allows you to install programs/hardware during a run. You have already paid the click to host them though, so all its really doing is allowing you to defer payment until they are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does allow you to install a Femme Fatale after the corp rezzes and Ice, targeting that Ice for the special bypass, and then bypass the Ice as you encounter it that turn. Or to install a parasite on an Ice after its rezzed, and then immediately lower its Strength to 0 so it gets trashed using Wyrm/Datasuckers when you encounter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T15:46:10.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-20T17:46:39.397" Score="4" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Captain Tycho (Blood Angels Codex, 5ED) can be chosen as either as &quot;Captain Tycho&quot; or &quot;Death Company Tycho&quot;.&#xA;I haven't found any indication that you must have a Death Company to include the DC version of Tycho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I have an army with &quot;Death Company Tycho&quot; but with no Death Company?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T18:54:00.770" Title="Can we take &quot;Death Company Tycho&quot; in an army without a Death Company?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12273" CreationDate="2013-06-20T18:00:27.697" Score="4" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunner.randomblink.com/coreset/aesopspawnshop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aesop's Pawnshop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your turn begins, you may trash another of your installed cards to gain 3 [&lt;strong&gt;credits&lt;/strong&gt;].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunner.randomblink.com/coreset/wyldside&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wyldside&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your turn begins, draw 2 cards and lose [&lt;strong&gt;click&lt;/strong&gt;] .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Questions:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I wish to use &lt;strong&gt;Aesop's Pawnshop&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;code&gt;trash&lt;/code&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Wyldside&lt;/strong&gt;, which one happens first?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could you stop &lt;strong&gt;Wyldside&lt;/strong&gt; from activating it's &lt;code&gt;start of turn&lt;/code&gt; action by &lt;strong&gt;Aesop's Pawnshop&lt;/strong&gt; -ping it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5293" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T19:14:35.383" Title="Can Aesop's Pawnshop Remove Wyldside before the start-of-turn resolves?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12272" CreationDate="2013-06-20T19:14:35.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You choose the order they resolve.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Wyldside resolves first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw two cards, lose a click&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sell Wyldside with Aesop's: trash it and gain three credits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if Aesop's resolve first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sell Wyldside for three credits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wyldside does nothing because it's been trashed (so you keep all four clicks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This specific scenario is actually covered in the rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/ADN01_Rules_ENG_Lo-Res.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) on page 22, under &quot;Simultaneous Effect Example&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner has Aesop’s Pawnshop and Wyldside installed and both have the same trigger condition of “When your turn begins.” The Runner begins his turn and can choose to trigger the optional conditional ability on Aesop’s Pawnshop first, gaining 3 [Credits] by trashing Wyldside. This stops Wyldside’s required conditional ability from triggering, keeping the Runner from losing [Click]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-06-20T19:14:35.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12275" CreationDate="2013-06-20T22:19:40.647" Score="11" ViewCount="950" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question regarding infinite loops and shortcuts at &lt;strong&gt;Competitive REL&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a potential scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both my opponent and myself are at 20 life each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have no creatures on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kiki-Jiki%2C%20Mirror%20Breaker&quot;&gt;Kiki-Jiki, Mirror Breaker&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warstorm%20Surge&quot;&gt;Warstorm Surge&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Charm&quot;&gt;Rakdos Charm&lt;/a&gt; in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deceiver%20Exarch&quot;&gt;Deceiver Exarch&lt;/a&gt; and begins a loop where he uses Kiki-Jiki to copy the Exarch, and uses each new Exarch to untap Kiki-Jiki, dealing me 1 damage every time he does it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Charm&quot;&gt;Rakdos Charm&lt;/a&gt; when the 18th Exarch token's trigger is on the stack, I win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I cast it at any other time, I lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent knows that I'm going to cast it than he won't make the 18th token, and he'll simply attack and kill me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent proposes a shortcut, saying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;I'll make 500 tokens and kill you.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I accept the first 18 iterations of that shortcut and react by saying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;After the 18th token enters the battlefield and its ETB trigger goes onto the stack, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Charm&quot;&gt;Rakdos Charm&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, or do I have to propose a new shortcut for the 18 iterations, potentially giving my opponent information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:32:33.423" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:36:40.933" Title="How do I interrupt a loop after multiple iterations?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12274" CreationDate="2013-06-20T22:44:54.520" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can accept only the first 18 iterations. After he proposes the number of iterations for the loop (500 here), you can choose a lower number of iterations, and both players have to abide to those iterations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for this are described in &lt;code&gt;719. Taking Shortcuts&lt;/code&gt;. A few quotes from that section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;719.2a At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players,&#xA;  that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the&#xA;  predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a&#xA;  non-repetitive series of choices, &lt;strong&gt;a loop that repeats a specified&#xA;  number of times&lt;/strong&gt;, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross&#xA;  multiple turns. It can’t include conditional actions, where the&#xA;  outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The&#xA;  ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has&#xA;  priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;719.2b Each other player, in turn order starting after the player who suggested the shortcut, &lt;strong&gt;may either accept the proposed sequence, or&#xA;  shorten it by naming a place where he or she will make a game choice&#xA;  that’s different than what’s been proposed&lt;/strong&gt;. (The player doesn’t need&#xA;  to specify at this time what the new choice will be.) This place&#xA;  becomes the new ending point of the proposed sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;719.2c Once the last player has either accepted or shortened the shortcut proposal, the shortcut is taken. &lt;strong&gt;The game advances to the&#xA;  last proposed ending point, with all game choices contained in the&#xA;  shortcut proposal having been taken&lt;/strong&gt;. If the shortcut was shortened&#xA;  from the original proposal, the player who now has priority must make&#xA;  a different game choice than what was originally proposed for that&#xA;  player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T14:36:40.933" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:36:40.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12278" CreationDate="2013-06-21T02:01:12.100" Score="4" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Death card it says you can remove it when it stands alone. So my question is, As soon as I draw it and it stands alone can I remove it right then, or do I have to wait till my next turn to discard it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5436" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T06:48:25.437" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T14:46:01.107" Title="When can I discard the Death Creeper Card?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12276" CreationDate="2013-06-21T07:04:17.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can discard it at any point &lt;strong&gt;during your turn&lt;/strong&gt;, if it is alone at the end of the draw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules text on the Death Creeper card says (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have this at the start of your turn, discard something else you have in play (a Keeper or a Creeper). &lt;strong&gt;You may discard this anytime it stands alone.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/literature/fluxx-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Rules&lt;/a&gt; state under the &lt;strong&gt;On Your Turn:&lt;/strong&gt; box, &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Optional actions&lt;/strong&gt; allowed by New Rules, Keepkers, etc may be performed at any point during this sequence.&amp;quot; The Death Creeper's last ability, may be performed at any point during &lt;strong&gt;your turn&lt;/strong&gt;. (With a minor exception mentioned in the &lt;strong&gt;Creeper Rules&lt;/strong&gt; when drawing multiple cards, &amp;quot;You might have to accept several Creepers &lt;strong&gt;at once&lt;/strong&gt; as you draw cards, &lt;strong&gt;until&lt;/strong&gt; you've drawn the required number of non-Creepers and added them to your hand.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, you cannot take any actions during other players turns, so &lt;strong&gt;anytime&lt;/strong&gt; isn't as often as you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Do I get to play any cards or take any actions when it's not my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: When it's someone else's turn, there's not much you get to do -- there are no cards you can play out of turn. But you will sometimes need to make minor decisions and perform card maintenance during other players' turns. For example, if someone plays a Hand Limit and you have more cards in your hand than are allowed, you'll need to decide what to keep and what to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T14:46:01.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12276" CreationDate="2013-06-21T07:56:56.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with the other answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card text says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have this at the start of your turn, discard something else you have in play (a Keeper or a Creeper). You may discard this anytime it stands alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card has two effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first effect, discarding something in play, must take place at the start of your turn (as accurately explained in the other answer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second effect, being able to discard Death itself, can be done at &quot;any time&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the second is the effect you are asking about. That means that &lt;strong&gt;if, at any point during anyone's turn, that is the only card you have in play, you may discard it&lt;/strong&gt;. To answer your specific scenario. If you draw it (and automatically play it) and it is the only card in front of you, you can discard it immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T07:56:56.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12280" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-21T15:32:49.453" Score="7" ViewCount="14250" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose that my opponent plays an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAethering%5d&quot;&gt;Aethering&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/riZCy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Aetherling&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, and I can't counter it so it arrives on the battlefield. How can I remove that card from the battlefield? I'm playing Standard Constructed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T20:54:09.873" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T04:55:43.767" Title="What can I do against Aetherling?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12280" CreationDate="2013-06-21T16:28:18.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest you can't do anything if they 3 or mana up as they resolve it. However you can stall for the win. Remember this card has 2 downsides it cost mana to keep it alive and it cost mana to end the game. Keep your removal spell to create a fog effect and keep swinging. If he blinks his creature its fine it just means he loses 1 attack step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3567" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T16:28:18.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12280" CreationDate="2013-06-21T16:28:19.783" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing Aetherling is useful, but not always necessary. The key thing is: how can you use the cards you have in your deck to &lt;strong&gt;deal with the threat&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turn off its abilities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aetherling is only powerful because of its activated abilities (in particular, the unblockable and bounce abilities). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; will turn it into a vanilla 4/5, which really isn't a very powerful creature at this stage in the game. Which is a pretty good deal if you're stopping your opponent's best win condition or hosing multiple copies of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of Standard, cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Linvala%2C%20Keeper%20of%20Silence&quot;&gt;Linvala, Keeper of Silence&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Damping%20Matrix&quot;&gt;Damping Matrix&lt;/a&gt; can play the same role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Race it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While an Aetherling can do significant damage every turn, it's not actually the fastest kill card in Standard. When the Aetherling comes down, look at the board position — are you better off trying to kill it or just killing your opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan to race, focus your removal on swinging the game's tempo. Use it to get rid of blockers (including Aetherling, if only for a turn) so your guys can get in more damage. You can also use instant-speed removal like a Fog against the Aetherling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life gain can be very useful to keep you afloat. If you're playing Bant or BUG in a control mirror against UWR or Esper, for instance, you'll likely have more life and more ways to gain life than your opponent. Even if you can't hold out forever, you can try to use your life gain to force your opponent to commit more than just U (for the unblockability) to the Aetherling each turn in order to kill you quickly. At which point you can take advantage of the next tactic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overload your opponent's mana&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aetherling is only survivable as long as your opponent has access to blue mana. Watch you opponent's mana usage. If you have more ways to kill the Aetherling than he has blue mana, it's dead. You may need to spend more than one spell to do this, but it's better than losing the game altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest example is right after he casts it. Say you're playing Jund and your opponent just cast Aetherling with one Island in reserve to flicker it. You've got &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Putrefy&quot;&gt;Putrefy&lt;/a&gt; in hand. Play Liliana's edict. When they put the Aetherling's exile trigger on the stack (spending their last U to do it), Putrefy the Aetherling in response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Machine-gun&amp;quot; combos also work pretty well. I've seen &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Olivia%20Voldaren&quot;&gt;Olivia Voldaren&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nightshade%20Peddler&quot;&gt;Nightshade Peddler&lt;/a&gt; overload an Aetherling pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Prevent it from attacking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aetherling is annoying to get rid of, but it's still just a creature that has to attack you to end the game. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphere%20of%20Safety&quot;&gt;Sphere of Safety&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stormtide%20Leviathan&quot;&gt;Stormtide Leviathan&lt;/a&gt; are the only such cards in DGM Standard, but if you have access to a wider card pool you can play cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moat&quot;&gt;Moat&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blazing%20Archon&quot;&gt;Blazing Archon&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensnaring%20Bridge&quot;&gt;Ensnaring Bridge&lt;/a&gt; (your opponent could pump down the Aetherling to allow it to attack, and then pump it back up to allow it to do damage, but that costs a ton of mana, so it's not exactly a problem for you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;TurboFog&amp;quot; decks are also very effective at blocking out creature damage, even from nasty creatures they can't kill outright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Split second&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;phasing&amp;quot; ability won't save Aetherling from a split-second card. These are cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Take%20Possession&quot;&gt;Take Possession&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trickbind&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Spoiling&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T16:35:23.220" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T16:35:23.220" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12257" CreationDate="2013-06-21T17:55:31.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd head for game in diamonds. You have 13 high card points, but your singleton club is worth 2-3 more provided that you play in a sut contract. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your partner probably has at least 13 high card points and 5-6 diamonds. You should have 26 high card points or more between you, plus 9-10 diamonds and the club singleton. Unless your opponents have A of clubs, plus A-K of another suit where you and partner both have at least a doubleton, you'll make five diamonds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main question is whether you have a good enough fit for slam. That would occur if your opponents had A, K, Q, J of clubs, and scattered values elseshere, say J, J, Q of the three other suits. On the other hand, slam is &quot;off&quot; if partner (or you) have wasted honors in clubs, meaning that your opponents may have useful honors elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T21:45:33.387" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T21:45:33.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12240" CreationDate="2013-06-21T18:06:06.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the table were A, K, K, 7, 3, the A-8 hand would win. The same would be true if the table were say, A, K, 8, 7, 3. Then the A-8 holder would have Aces and eights with a K kicker, while the A-3 holder would have A, A, 3,3, K, a weaker second pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the actual table gives the A-3 holder A, A, K,K, 8, same as the A-8 holder.&#xA;That leads to a split pot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8 on the table &quot;counterfets&quot; (nullifies) the effect of the superior 8 kicker held by the fist hand. At the same time, the second pair of kings means that the A-8 does NOT beat A-3 with the better second pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T18:06:06.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12112" CreationDate="2013-06-21T19:20:30.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coolest thing I've seen in limited was enchanting an Geist of Saint Traft. Geist's Angel is a sepprate object to the game and not effected by the enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5442" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T19:20:30.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12290" CreationDate="2013-06-21T19:38:45.840" Score="2" ViewCount="1448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a card called Solidarity, reading:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have only 1 original Type of monster in your Graveyard, face-up monsters you control with the same Type gain 800 ATK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where the graveyard has two or more creatures of the same type then it's obvious we can use the effect; similarly, if the graveyard has precisely one creature in it, then it has exactly one type of creature in it (and so the effect may be applied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the graveyard has no creatures in it, I would argue that there is exactly one type of creature in it (this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuous_truth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vacuous truth&lt;/a&gt;). I wanted to use the card in this situation but my opponent absolutely refused it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this truth is as valid as saying the Empty Set is Hausdorff.  I'm hoping there are mathematicians out there that also play Yugioh and are qualified to answer this; alternatively, I am hoping there is an official answer to this, not just some opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T02:12:19.527" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T02:12:19.527" Title="If I have no creatures in the graveyard, do I nevertheless have one Type of creature?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12291" CreationDate="2013-06-21T19:57:55.423" Score="5" ViewCount="3208" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=standstill&quot;&gt;standstill&lt;/a&gt; on an otherwise empty board, is there a way to remove it without your opponent drawing cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=krosan%20grip&quot;&gt;krosan grip&lt;/a&gt; doesn't work because split-second doesn't apply to triggered abilities, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=stifle&quot;&gt;stifle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=trickbind&quot;&gt;trickbind&lt;/a&gt; don't work either, because they themselves will trigger the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T17:15:00.820" Title="Is there a way to beat Standstill?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2013-06-21T20:09:09.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can counter it when it is being cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to ensure that if it triggers it does not get a chance to be sacraficed, then you need to use an ability that wipes the stack like the one found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sundial%20of%20the%20infinite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sundial Of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way would be to destroy it without casting a spell. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5bdestroy%5d+%5btarget%5d+%5benchantment%5d&amp;amp;tough=+%3E=%5b1%5d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You could use the ability of a creature already on the battlefield&lt;/a&gt; to destroy it after it is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-06-21T20:29:39.317" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T20:29:39.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12286" CreationDate="2013-06-21T21:09:59.213" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect should not apply. You do not have one Type of monster in your Graveyard; you have zero. This would be different if the card said, say &quot;all monsters in your Graveyard are the same Type&quot; - that statement is certainly vacuously true with an empty Graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, it doesn't even matter. The effect only affects monster of the same Type, and obviously none of your monsters have the same type as... the null set. So even if the condition were satisfied, the card would do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Disclaimer: I don't play Yu-Gi-Oh; I'm just reading what the card says.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-06-21T21:09:59.213" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2013-06-21T21:28:30.927" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to look for abilities that can be activated from places other than the 'field, since abilities don't trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standstill&quot;&gt;Standstill&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cycle &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Resounding%20Wave&quot;&gt;Resounding Wave&lt;/a&gt; targeting Standstill and a land, as cycling is an activated ability it won't cause Standstill to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.28a Cycling is an activated ability that functions only while the card with cycling is in a player’s hand. “Cycling [cost]” means “[Cost], Discard this card: Draw a card.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:47:42.363" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:47:42.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2013-06-22T05:30:15.997" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; Below answer actually won't work, because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standstill&quot;&gt;Standstill&lt;/a&gt; is only sacrificed when its triggered ability resolves.  It will trigger again from the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; and the second trigger will resolve before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;Play any spell so that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standstill&quot;&gt;Standstill&lt;/a&gt; triggers.  Then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; to counter the trigger.&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastEditorUserId="5305" LastEditDate="2013-06-22T08:21:31.217" LastActivityDate="2013-06-22T08:21:31.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-22T16:24:26.270" Score="12" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a card game that allows players to advance. The problem is that you can keep your stats until your next game (with anybody else). For the life of me, I can't find out how to be able to &quot;prove&quot; that the stats are valid (other than keeping a booklet or something, which I already am doing, but they could just fake what is in their booklet too)? For example, if I'm playing with someone new, how can I ensure that if they say they are on the top tier, they are telling the truth? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could put in the rules that anybody caught cheating will automatically be downgraded to the bottom tier, or some other penalty, but how do I PROVE that they are cheating? Maybe a different method of going up tiers? Or keeping track of going up tiers? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I've been racking my brain about this. The whole game revolves around being able to go up tiers, but I don't want people to cheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5444" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:35:24.113" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T17:54:54.170" Title="How can I prevent players from cheating on their stats that carry between games?" Tags="|game-design|cheating|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12296" CreationDate="2013-06-23T04:35:44.797" Score="6" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing in a two player game recently in which both Wharf and Outpost were being used. My opponent played both these cards in one turn. We decided that the extra turn dictated by Outpost, did not count as &quot;the start of your next turn&quot; dictated by Wharf. As a result he played Outpost with three cards and one buy, rather than 5 cards and two buys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is did we do this right? Should the extra 2 cards and 1 buy from Wharf go the the extra turn from the Outpost, or should the duration phase of Wharf follow my turn that follows his bonus Outpost play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T04:45:18.950" Title="Dominion Seaside cards. Wharf and Outpost in the same hand" Tags="|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12295" CreationDate="2013-06-23T04:45:18.950" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent should have drawn the extra cards on the next turn (the bonus one awarded by Outpost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;ved=0CC8QFjAA&amp;amp;url=http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=441&amp;amp;ei=MHzGUe6xJYO09gTF34CQCg&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNEordsHW05uvGu_BIgrLQQw0N6ghw&amp;amp;sig2=qQYAqVliyHaV4U_N5Mw_Ag&amp;amp;bvm=bv.48293060,d.eWU&quot;&gt;Seaside rules&lt;/a&gt;, about Outpost:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you play Outpost as well as a &quot;Now and at the start of your next turn&quot; card, such as Merchant Ship, the turn from Outpost will be that next turn, so you'll get those coins then. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you can replace Merchant Ship with Wharf and get the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T04:45:18.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12271" CreationDate="2013-06-23T21:02:48.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is an individual model. He does not come attached to the Death Company nor can he join it, because he is not an Independent Character (the 'normal' version is an Independent Character). This is how the rules are written and was confirmed in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m3030012a_Blood_Angels_v1.3_FEBRUARY13.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blood Angels FAQ&lt;/a&gt; published on the Games Workshop website, last updated February 2013:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Are the Sanguinor, Mephiston and Death Company Tycho Independent&#xA;Characters, or single model units in their own right? (p.41, 47, 51)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Single model units in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5449" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-23T21:27:20.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-24T04:09:48.427" Score="5" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Harvey_Walters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Harvey Walters&lt;/a&gt; has an ability which lessens each sanity &lt;strong&gt;loss&lt;/strong&gt; by one point, which means that single point sanity losses have no effect on him.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/The_Man_in_Black&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Man in Black&lt;/a&gt;, a mythos card, causes one sanity loss per failed die roll.  Therefore, it seems that Harvey is immune to the MiB's devouring and will always gain rewards from this card.  Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like an &quot;official&quot; answer, because half of my gaming group was fully convinced that Harvey was immune to the MiB, and the other half was sure that Harvey could be devoured just like everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2013-08-21T21:41:39.017" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T21:41:39.017" Title="Is Harvey Walters immune to the Man in Black?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12299" CreationDate="2013-06-24T04:32:35.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's correct. Harvey Walter's ability applies to all losses (but not costs), as &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt; explicitly states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Does the Strong Mind ability (reduce all Sanity loss by 1) of the&#xA;  professor, Harvey Walters, apply to the casting of spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No. The professor’s ability works on losses, not costs. The same&#xA;  distinction applies to the gangster, Michael McGlen, and his ability&#xA;  to reduce Stamina losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Horror checks, Elder signs, Mythos cards, Tomes... are all covered. While it's a cool combo if you happen to draw that Mythos card, it's not a game-breaker, IMHO. You still have to hang around French Hill Streets, and the reward, while good, isn't exceptional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note that an alternative way to play this would be to add up all the sanity losses from the Man in Black, and then subtract one from the total. In fact, this is the way I normally play this interaction, since getting the clue and spell for free feels kind of lame. As far as I know, there is no official ruling one way or the other on that though. Whichever way you play it, I don't think it is going to substantively affect your games - there are many more, much more decisive random elements in a typical game of Arkham!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T04:38:05.227" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T04:38:05.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12293" CreationDate="2013-06-24T05:52:52.483" Score="12" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Make it so that it doesn't matter if players have faked their profile.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say having a high ranked profile means that you have access to better equipment (and therefore an incentive to produce a fake profile). You could reduce the impact of this by (say) introducing a handicap for high ranked players when playing against lower ranked players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a handicap system (or some similar mechanic) that balances the game, it doesn't matter for a casual game if one player has a faked profile, since neither player has an unfair advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also assuming casual games with unknown players would be the main problem, because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you repeatedly face the same opponent(s), you'll start to notice them doctoring their profile between games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're having a tournament, it probably makes sense for the tournament body to hold the profiles and check them between games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, this also opens up your game to other demographics. For example,&#xA;on D&amp;amp;D, there are players that would prefer to start at a high level with a bunch of equipment already. Also, if it doesn't matter if the profiles have been built &amp;quot;correctly&amp;quot; or not, then players can fabricate profiles to see how a different set of choices would play out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T05:52:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12293" CreationDate="2013-06-24T09:34:11.777" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very difficult question to answer, and it's probably the reason that persistent, player power modifying changes are not included in most card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;one possible solution is a central online data store/mobile app&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be beyond your project, but one solution would be to implement some form of website wherein player profiles can be stored, this website would allow you to keep control of player profiles, and give players confidence that their opponent cannot (at least, legally or easily) compromise the data stored in your database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how your system works, registering win/loss may be enough for tracking advancement, in which case players can each register a match and its result (or one player can propose a match/result, which the other must confirm). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If characteristics of the match must be tracked as well (e.g. if casting a certain type of spell increases a certain statistic) this can also be tracked in a similar way, just requiring some more detail on behalf of your players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the above however only solves the problem of individuals trying to cheat. If a pair or group wish to cheat, they could just register alternating wins/losses against each other to advance at a high rate. Diminishing returns could be included to combat this, however it would still not resolve the issue of a larger group gaming their stats in the run up to a large tournament (you can only limit this behaviour so much before you have a negative impact on small play groups who regularly play against each other)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to produce something similar to how planeswalker points are handled in Magic: The Gathering, which is that your tournament record is uploaded by the tournament organiser (using software provided by Wizards of the coast, who make MTG, which uploads the list of all players, all matches that took place, and who wins each match). This removes the opportunity for any size group of players to cheat, providing that your tournament organisers can be kept trustworthy (keeping your tournament organisers invested in being trustworthy by giving them a lot of rewards like free promos/product, and then removing all rewards and all ability to organise play where that trust is broken). This would allow you to track player movements in probably the most secure way possible, and does not require the same production of a full featured mobile app that players can (and crucially, enjoy) use to track their play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will say one thing however. &lt;strong&gt;There is a reason no other card game has an advancement system, and it isn't that no one has thought of it before&lt;/strong&gt;. It is difficult enough to keep play fair without a system like this which can be potentially gamed for an advantage. Card games (particularly collectible ones) have a big enough barrier to entry already, in that cards can be particularly expensive, having an innate disadvantage from being new BESIDES not owning all the cards is going to have a significant impact on getting new players into your game. Getting new players and keeping them has to be absolutely one of your top priorities, because players leave all the time, and if you don't have a steady stream of new players coming in, you will kill your game stone dead. Nobody plays a game if they cant play it with anyone, and if no one new takes it up, it will fizzle out very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better solution is to reward regular players with &lt;strong&gt;Aesthetic&lt;/strong&gt; bonuses, such as Promos, Shiny things, free stuff that no one else gets. This encourages long term play as well (if not better) as tangible game advantage, without discouraging new players (in fact, it encourages them to stick with it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T14:09:13.570" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T14:09:13.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5458" CreationDate="2013-06-24T11:22:38.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;there are a number of good websites where you can sell your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Star City Games (or for that matter, any singles website you care to pick, there are literally hundreds) will buy cards at a lower than market price, instantly, with minimal fuss&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ebay will help you sell your cards but takes a sizeable cut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic Card Market for europeans is a good peer to peer selling platform&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;remember though, its not just rares that can be worth money, there are commons and uncommons that are worth more than many rares. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=wasteland&quot;&gt;wasteland&lt;/a&gt;, an uncommon, is worth around $60. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karakas&quot;&gt;Karakas&lt;/a&gt;, another uncommon is worth around $100, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=mana%20drain&quot;&gt;mana drain&lt;/a&gt;, a third uncommon, is worth $172, there are also various commons, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serum%20Visions&quot;&gt;Serum Visions&lt;/a&gt; which is worth $3, or something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sinkhole&quot;&gt;sinkhole&lt;/a&gt;, a $30 common. It is very much worth, if you are looking to get the best price for your cards, going through and finding the cards that are worth money, a quick way to do this is to print out a website's buy list and use it as a cheat sheet for cards that are worth money, if its on the list, you may well want to sell it individually, and you should set it aside (for now) and check its actual retail value (often three or more times what the buylist price is). if its lower than you want to bother with (its well worth setting yourself a limit, e.g. anything worth less than $1) sell it as bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;once you have set aside the cards you want to sell yourself, pick your favourite avenue, the returns you get depend on the time you want to invest. Sell the rest either as bulk collections on ebay, or to a singles website as they will often buy bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T11:22:38.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12305" CreationDate="2013-06-24T15:36:03.077" Score="10" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a seafaring race if I conquer the lake in the middle of the map, do the regions adjacent to the lake become vulnerable to my attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5451" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-24T17:12:11.127" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T19:34:57.867" Title="Can a Seafaring race attack the land from a sea or lake region?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12304" CreationDate="2013-06-24T17:09:51.490" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can attack these new adjacent regions after conquering the seas or lake. The Seafaring &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state that the seas and lake are considered empty regions for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seafaring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As long as your Seafaring race is active, you may conquer&#xA;  the Seas and the Lake, considering them as 3 empty Regions. You keep&#xA;  these Regions even once you go into Decline, and continue scoring for&#xA;  them for as long as you have tokens there. Only Seafaring races may&#xA;  occupy the Seas and the Lake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they are just regions, the rules for subsequent conquests apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The active player can repeat this process to conquer as many new&#xA;  Regions as he wishes during his turn, provided he has enough Race&#xA;  tokens left to accomplish these successive conquests. Each of the&#xA;  newly conquered Regions must be adjacent to (i.e. sharing a border&#xA;  with) a Region already occupied by his active Race tokens, unless&#xA;  permitted otherwise by his Race and Special Power combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go forth and conquer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-06-24T17:09:51.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2013-06-24T22:05:06.190" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won a local A&amp;amp;A event with my German and Japanese blitz tactic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DO NOT Pearl Harbor. Consolidate your whole Navy at Japan.  Buy infantry and transports until you are certain you can take India.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take India. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Japanese fleet with some infantry to Alaska to throw America off; they will freak out for a couple of turns.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy nothing but tanks and 1 bomber every turn. Industrial Bomb Russia every turn.  Suicide attack russia with tanks every turn over and over; they cannot afford the loss.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destroy the British Navy; you can do this without losing fighters.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to take Africa with the transport in the Med. Sea. Don't spend too much energy; you cannot hold it very long but the temp. IPCs help.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consolidate all of your tanks, fighters, bomber and infantry on Eastern Europe, leaving about 5 infantry on Western Europe to prevent an easy take over.  Begin buying all infantry every turn moving your Eastern Europe army one space a turn with 1 pile of infantry behind it.  Do not worry about Karelia yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you reach Moscow, attack Karalia, then rotate between retaking Karelia or Ukraine over and over, never attacking Moscow directly.  Once they quit trying to retake those two territories start attacking Moscow but retreat after the first attack never allowing your tanks and aircraft to get hit. NEVER split your force to hold both Karelia and Ukraine; the point is to sucker them in to losing the money and a few infantry every turn trying to retake it.  Then reinforce the army with the infantry moving one space a turn from Germany. The combination of attacking once, retreating and reinforcing every turn is devastating to Russia.  This allows Germany and Japan to starve Russia of money and they cant hold out very long. The long term game is in the Allied favor they have 3 turns to your 2 with more money. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to the strategy is an early taking of India by Japan by not doing the &quot;Pearl Harbor&quot; and using the Navy to take India. This allows Japan to expand quickly and to starve Russia and to Industrial Bomb Russia and attack with tanks.  Usually 1 bomber 2 tanks from India every turn.  If you can afford it make a factory and do the same in Burma.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany just acts like a battering ram of infantry; sooner or later they're going to get in and it's game over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5453" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T08:14:12.507" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T08:14:12.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12310" CreationDate="2013-06-25T02:38:11.877" Score="7" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very typical to say &quot;current standard&quot;. Right now that means Innistrad (with Dark Ascension, Avacyn Restored, and M13) and Return to Ravnica (with Gatecrash, Dragon's Maze, and soon to come M14). Years from now, when these long past rotated out of standard, how might I reference the name of this set &quot;standard&quot; play (or any other &quot;previous current standard&quot;? Is there a convention for it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T16:00:08.260" Title="Is there a naming convention for the various standard-formats as they existed throughout history?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12309" CreationDate="2013-06-25T03:06:01.337" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refer to the blocks&lt;/strong&gt;: &quot;Scars-Innistrad Standard,&quot; or just &quot;Scars Standard&quot; (using the name of the full block, which tends to define the format more) is very common. People are likely to place it into context at a glance, but it lacks some specificity, though that's mostly relevant for flash-in-the-pan decks that vanish when the next set tweaks the card pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refer to the most recent set released&lt;/strong&gt;: &quot;NPH Standard.&quot; This is the most specific. The one downside is that some players don't remember all the small sets too well. This approach is concise and the card pool is totally unambiguous, with the rare exceptions of mid-season bans. Also it's pretty clunky when the last set is a core set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refer to a year&lt;/strong&gt;: &quot;In 2005, the best deck was...&quot; People can look up the sets or figure them out from context.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Refer to a deck&lt;/strong&gt;: Honestly, most often when people discuss old Standard they are just talking about a famous top deck &amp;mdash; Caw-Blade, Faeries, Affinity, Academy, &amp;amp;c. &amp;mdash; or a deck with some rare and special oddball name (Owling Mine). Not that great if you're trying to discuss the difference between red decks in 2003 and 2005, of course.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oftentimes articles will do a bit of scene-setting, telling you the year and what blocks were in Standard in prose form. If you're writing out other information in an expansive way anyway (like a mention of the top cards or top decks of the time period, to provide context about how &lt;em&gt;this deck&lt;/em&gt; works), you might as well save a bit of jargon and use a full sentence to describe the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T16:00:08.260" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T16:00:08.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T03:36:11.887" Score="4" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;From its beginning through 2015, Magic the Gathering released a new &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_sets#Base.2Fcore_set_editions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;core set&lt;/a&gt; every so often (at first every two years, then every year). At first, core sets would only contain previously released cards, but that changed with the Magic 2010 series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What core set contains the largest number of different in cards within that core set from the previous core set?&lt;/strong&gt; (how many cards were changed from that previous year?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="3449" LastEditDate="2017-03-04T23:03:13.580" LastActivityDate="2017-03-04T23:03:13.580" Title="Which MtG core set has had the greatest change in cards from a previous core set?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12313" CreationDate="2013-06-25T03:36:44.763" Score="5" ViewCount="2709" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Possibility Storm&lt;/a&gt; , what would be the best way to destroy it? If I played a card which allowed me to destroy target enchantment, would this destroy Possibility Storm before my card becomes exiled or would I need to rely on one of the cards I need to draw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also does Possibility Storm trigger when playing creatures or lands/basic lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T22:17:04.850" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T16:48:41.790" Title="How can I destroy Possibility Storm?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12312" CreationDate="2013-06-25T03:55:06.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It triggers whenever you cast a spell from your hand, no matter what kind of spell. This includes an instant or sorcery you might play to try to destroy it, as well as creatures. (Playing lands is not casting a spell - it's a special action you can do.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it's difficult to destroy. Keeping it from ever reaching the battlefield by countering it is of course the easiest way. If you happen to have something on the battlefield with an ability that can destroy it, like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keening%20Apparition&quot;&gt;Keening Apparition&lt;/a&gt; that'll work too. Similarly, if you're lucky enough to have a spell with Flashback already in your graveyard like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ray%20of%20Revelation&quot;&gt;Ray of Revelation&lt;/a&gt;, you could use that - it's not cast from your hand, so it's not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But otherwise, yes, you'll have to rely on luck - cast your spells, and hope you hit something good. Do note that you don't necessarily &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to destroy it; you could well cast a vanilla 1/1 creature and luck into something enormous, and your opponent is just as dead if you kill them without being able to control what you cast!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T03:55:06.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12311" CreationDate="2013-06-25T04:00:03.280" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The MTGSalvation wiki tracks core set changes &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Category:Core_set_changes&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The summary, assuming I haven't made any copying/arithmetic errors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlimited -&amp;gt; Revised: 39 added, 35 removed (total 74)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revised -&amp;gt; 4th: 122 added, 50 removed (total 172)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4th -&amp;gt; 5th: 194 added, 128 removed (total 322)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5th -&amp;gt; 6th: 167 added, 266 removed (total 433)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6th -&amp;gt; 7th: 177 added, 177 removed (total 354)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7th -&amp;gt; 8th: 167 added, 160 removed (total 327)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8th -&amp;gt; 9th: 165 added, 163 removed (total 328)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9th -&amp;gt; 10th: 214 added, 190 removed (total 404)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10th -&amp;gt; M10: 158 added, 292 removed (total 450)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M10 -&amp;gt; M11: 136 added, 136 removed (total 272)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M11 -&amp;gt; M12: 153 added, 153 removed (total 306)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M12 -&amp;gt; M13: 193 added, 193 removed (total 386)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M13 -&amp;gt; M14: 154 added, 198 removed (total 352)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M14 -&amp;gt; M15: 235 added, 201 removed (total 436)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M15 -&amp;gt; Origins: 263 added, 259 removed (total 522)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Origins had the largest total number of changed cards as well as the largest number added, while M10 had the largest number removed. If you don't want to consider Origins a &amp;quot;true&amp;quot; core set for these purposes (because it was also introducing a bunch of new lore) then M10 also has the largest number of changed cards, and M15 added the largest number of new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting, however, that some this is driven by changes in set size — the number of cards removed from 10th edition to get to M10 is literally larger than the total number of cards in many of the more recent core sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3449" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T17:03:15.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T04:42:42.063" Score="1" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 1S-4H-4D-4C, 15 PTS. I open 1D -- Partner: 1S --&gt; Now my options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't bid 1NT (no nt distribution).&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want to show that I have more than minimum (12-14 pts), so I don't want to bid 2C, so I bid 3C. Is my reasoning correct? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T15:52:47.560" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T15:52:47.560" Title="Responder' rebid with unbalanced hand (system: Simple SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12315" CreationDate="2013-06-25T05:04:30.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a word, no. A jump shift shows a game forcing hand (something like 18 HCP with that distribution). 2C could be any strength that's not game forcing across from a minimum responder, and is probably your best bid here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T05:04:30.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12315" CreationDate="2013-06-25T05:38:46.417" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed with Ruds; absolutely do not, under any conditions, bid anything other than 2C with the hand described..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to realize that partner with 10+ support points can be expected to make a game invitation, or reveal the pending misfit by either a simple preference to 2D or a rebid of spades. Your responsibility is to describe your hand, which the simple rebid of 2C does perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T05:38:46.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12319" CreationDate="2013-06-25T05:44:44.093" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Survive: Escape from Atlantis&lt;/em&gt; with the giant squid mini-expansion, the whales and squids are treated as being roughly the same critter.  Does this mean that the anti-whale tiles can be used to defend against marauding squids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T20:56:46.183" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T20:56:46.183" Title="Can the anti-whale tile be used to defend against the giant squid?" Tags="|escape-from-atlantis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12318" CreationDate="2013-06-25T06:37:46.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can use the anti-whale tiles to defend against the giant squid.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I was unable to find a FAQ for the game on Stronghold-Games website, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/11028/kevin-nesbitt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kevin Nesbitt&lt;/a&gt; who is a credited designer of one of Survives other mini expansions &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/6100496#6100496&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;said the following&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Giant Squid and Whale are meant to be largely interchangeable, at least in how they are brought into and out of play. Since a player must select either a whale OR a Giant Squid, they may also choose to harpoon &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; by play of the defensive whale tile (but only one &quot;harpooning&quot; per tile, please!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-25T13:22:51.377" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T13:22:51.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2013-06-25T14:22:39.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with Jhono about doing &quot;Pearl Harbor.&quot; Losing the Japanese Navy is a gamble. Sure, it destroys the  American fleet but then Japan has to take the land road to India or leave India all together. America can rebuild it's navy easily, while Japan cannot. India can be a deadly threat to Russia by landing fighters directly into Moscow.  My friend does this; he flies fighters in from India to Moscow. Try taking Moscow with 30+ infantry defending at 2 and 10+ UK fighters defensing at 4. It's not GONNA HAPPEN. My opinion is India is the make or break for the Axis.  Leaving it buys time for the Allies which will win them the game. India can be taken on turn 3 with the whole Japanese air force, navy and some infantry on transports.  Once India is out of the way Japan cannot be stopped and Russia is dead before it even knows it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5453" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T14:00:02.310" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T14:00:02.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2013-06-25T15:11:19.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OH my bad just realized he wanted UK only.  UK is the most under rated player in Axis.  Impossible to take over  great at support and can pull off some good surprise assaults. And can keep Japan at bay by itself.  India is UK's ace up it's sleeve.  My friend and i like to fly fighters in from India to Moscow until there is about 10. then switch to industrial bombing Germany and buying bombers and late game buying Navy and attack Germany.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Destroy the German Navy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With America and UK help get Germany out of Africa Germany cannot hold it and beat Russia they will be force to buy navy to keep Africa  and it buys the Russia too much time.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;use your transports in Australia to move  the infantry from Australia to India then use the transport to move UK infantry from Africa to India.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once your certain you can hold India buy an industrial complex there.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;buy 2 fighters and 1 infantry every turn if money allows ( always buy as many fighters as you can in India and move them to Moscow every turn) this creates a brick wall in Russia that sets the game up for a long game in Allied favor.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;once Russia is safe with about 10 or so UK fighters there switch to Bombers and Industrial Bomb Germany  every turn once you get about 4-6 bombers the effect is devastating.  The anti aircraft can sometimes get lucky and shoot down 3 or so but still keep buying Bombers. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I buy 1 bomber a turn with America to help UK industrial Bomb as well.  Once Germany is feeling the pain of industrial bombing start buying Navy with America while still buying Bombers with UK and 1 Bomber with America.  As Soon as America has a Navy at UK buy nothing but transports and infantry with UK and America and attack western Europe you can use the bombers to attack at 4 and use the infantry as cannon fodder.  Its just a matter of time for the Allied  3 turn advantage to win. Germany cannot take Russia due to the industrial bombings and constant western Europe attacks with Bombers and Infantry from UK and America And Russia is sitting Pretty with 50 infantry and 10+ UK fighters. Once Germany is Getting Beat down UK can switch and use the fighters against Japan as well late game.  But we usually Concede if either the Allies take Germany or the Axis Take Russia.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really the Key is for UK to Use the transport at Australia and use the infantry in Australia and Africa (once Germany has been removed from Africa) to secure India.  India is the Key for the Allies it stops Japan from focusing on Russia and keeps the Axis from getting Africa and can fortify Moscow with UK fighters without having to go through anti  aircraft  in Karelia. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that's how i play UK enjoy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5453" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T15:11:19.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12312" CreationDate="2013-06-25T16:22:05.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question can be answered just like a question about Standstill &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12287/is-there-a-way-to-beat-standstill&quot;&gt;that was asked earlier this week&lt;/a&gt;, by User Akedren. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically one great way to get rid of enchantments, which are permanents, is to pull them off the table or otherwise destroy them without casting a spell from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote the answer I mentioned above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can cycle Resounding Wave targeting [Possibility Storm] and a&#xA;  land, as cycling is an activated ability it won't cause [Possibility&#xA;  Storm] to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.27a Cycling is an activated ability that functions only while the card with cycling is in a player’s hand. “Cycling [cost]” means&#xA;    “[Cost], Discard this card: Draw a card.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;.- Akedren&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if the board is not empty you can easily use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[destroy]+[target]+[enchantment]&amp;amp;tough=+%3E=[1]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;creatures that have abilites that allow you to destroy enchantments&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T16:22:05.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12271" CreationDate="2013-06-25T17:52:45.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an official e-mail answer from Games Workshop customer service:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find any restrictions, so I believe you can take Death Company Tycho without a unit of Death Company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;David Monroe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games Workshop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North America Customer Services&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5293" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T18:54:00.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-25T21:29:07.533" Score="2" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262657&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alpha Brawl&lt;/a&gt; is played, after the target creature deals damage to the opponents creatures, do only the ones that survive do damage back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5456" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T02:04:32.077" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T16:02:15.703" Title="Do other creatures have to survive to deal damage back to Alpha Brawl's target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12324" CreationDate="2013-06-25T21:39:56.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling is right there on gatherer:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The two parts of Alpha Brawl's effect happen sequentially: first the&#xA;  targeted creature deals damage, then the other creatures deal damage.&#xA;  State-based actions aren't checked in the middle, so creatures that&#xA;  are dealt lethal damage by the targeted creature will still deal&#xA;  damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the opponent's creatures will deal damage back, regardless of whether or not they die.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-25T21:39:56.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12324" CreationDate="2013-06-25T21:50:25.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creatures dealt lethal damage will still deal their damage back to Alpha Brawl's target.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Oracle rulings, which you can see on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262657&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the card's Gatherer page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/22/2011   The two parts of Alpha Brawl's effect happen sequentially: first the targeted creature deals damage, then the other creatures deal damage. State-based actions aren't checked in the middle, so creatures that are dealt lethal damage by the targeted creature will still deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does it work the way it does? Because, in Magic, you carry out the instructions on a card sequentially, but you also do all the actions as one event, and only check for state-based actions and triggers afterward. &quot;This creature took so much damage that it's going to the graveyard now&quot; is a state-based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that all creatures killed by Alpha Brawl will go to the graveyard at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-06-26T16:02:15.703" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T16:02:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12329" CreationDate="2013-06-26T04:40:33.187" Score="7" ViewCount="2381" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose that my investigator currently has a fight of 4, and a Rifle (Combat +5).  Is the number of dice I get to roll during combat limited by the in-box equipment (5), or can I roll 9 dice (5 dice + 4 dice)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T04:51:15.033" Title="Can I roll more than 5 dice in Combat?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12328" CreationDate="2013-06-26T04:51:15.033" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roll as many dice as you need to (nine, in your case). The relevant bit in the rules, I suppose, is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When making a skill check, a player always rolls a number of dice equal to his investigator’s value in the appropriate skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also an example, under Weapon and Skill Limits, saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... He then accounts for the Star Spawn’s combat rating (–3), &lt;strong&gt;leaving him with 13 dice&lt;/strong&gt; with which to roll 3 successes (as the Star Spawn’s toughness is 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are so many things that wouldn't make sense if you were limited to five dice. There are investigators with a skill that goes up to 6, items like the Tommy Gun that give +6 to something. And there's the bit where skill checks requiring 3 successes would be pretty much impossible, and even two would be hard. Combat should often involve more than five dice, and it's quite possible to get yourself up past ten dice - I think they just figured it wasn't really feasible to give you enough dice for any possible situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-06-26T04:51:15.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2013-06-26T21:38:23.167" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What always works for me in my mill deck is having cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTome%20Scour%5d&quot;&gt;Tome Scour&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirko%20Vosk%2c%20Mind%20Drinker%5d&quot;&gt;Mirko Vosk, Mind Drinker&lt;/a&gt; or traumatize to mill a pretty good amount of their deck. In the meantime I have my fog banks and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKraken%20Hatchling%5d&quot;&gt;Kraken Hatchling&lt;/a&gt; doing a little blocking while I am searching my library for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConsuming%20Aberration%5d&quot;&gt;Consuming Aberration&lt;/a&gt; using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiabolic%20Tutor%5d&quot;&gt;Diabolic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;. I then use either &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDying%20Wish%5d&quot;&gt;Dying Wish&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRite%20of%20Consumption%5d&quot;&gt;Rite of Consumption&lt;/a&gt; to sacrifice consuming aberration alowing to do damage equal to its toughness to the opponent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5460" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-12T16:27:47.623" LastActivityDate="2019-05-12T16:27:47.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5628" CreationDate="2013-06-27T03:30:49.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindcrank&quot;&gt;Mindcrank&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duskmantle%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Duskmantle Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; and any card that will force opponent to mill at least one card will start an infinite combo loop. They will mill cards and lose life until they run out of cards or lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5461" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-06-27T21:30:50.167" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T21:30:50.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8663" CreationDate="2013-06-27T15:06:16.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, Descent (both First and Second Editions) is weighted against the Heroes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Descent is a board game designed to play like a Role-Playing Game (RPG), so it includes the classic thematic elements of heroic player-characters striving against an unknown evil entity seeking to do Evil Things with the aid of his endless ranks of minions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most RPGs, the monsters will frequently have abilities or stats that the players can only achieve at much later levels, or sometimes never obtain. This is designed to force the players to adapt to overcome the situation, to use teamwork, tactics, and preparation to collectively achieve what no individual could otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like what happened to your party was that the Overlord caught you in a standard RPG pitfall: The party became too narrowly focused. Maybe there were no ranged attackers, in favor of heavy-hitting melee? Maybe there was nobody with high Might because everyone focused on Awareness? There's all kinds of ways to leave 'gaps' in your group's abilities, but the important part for you as a heroic player is to learn to overcome them, either by conquering them when they arise or protecting against them ever becoming an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the typical ploys in Role Playing is to present the players with a 'teaser' of something evil coming up, just enough so that they can possibly plan and prepare to survive it: a corpse found at the entrance to a dark cave covered in massive spiderwebs (indicating serious spiders inside), or a hallway covered in scorch marks ending in a door burned down to the hinges (indicating a fiery foe awaiting invaders). The problem is, if the players do not respond to this teaser or are unable to adapt to the situation, The Bad Guy is going to beat them. Badly. Defeat happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing to take away from a defeat like that (either as a character who somehow survives or at least as a player preparing for their next character) is to look at what happened, look at your available options (skills/feats/abilities, equipment, etc) and try to work out a way to defeat the tactic the next time you see it happening. Perhaps some form of ranged/reach attack so you can still remove threats while immobilized; perhaps a plan to focus-fire on anything that appears behind your team to make sure it can't harass you; or perhaps just changing your plans for who-moves-where to better provide protection for the whole team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, Descent is weighted against the Heroes. That's the whole difficulty of balancing any RPG or Role-Play-like game: finding the point where the Heroes *can* win, but so can the Overlord, and the difference is teamwork, tactics, and creativity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T15:06:16.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12335" CreationDate="2013-06-27T17:26:16.963" Score="1" ViewCount="4550" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt;. I want to make sure it deals damage to all creatures on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3387" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-06-28T14:33:34.840" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T14:33:34.840" Title="Does &quot;each creature&quot; include all creatures on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-27T18:03:09.050" Score="11" ViewCount="6197" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone who's collected Magic for a while knows the unfortunate tendency for foils &amp;mdash; especially older foils and the heavier promotional foils &amp;mdash; to curl up towards the foil side (presumably as the cardstock expands from moisture).  Unfortunately, this not only makes it harder to use the foils in decks (they become clearly marked &amp;mdash; not a serious problem but still an annoyance for formats like Commander, and a more substantial problem for someone hoping to put e.g. some old foil Rancors into a Standard deck), but it presumably also decreases their value notably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, just sandwiching the foils in between regular cards doesn't work very well &amp;mdash; there isn't generally enough pressure from the regular cards to keep the foils flat; worse, this scheme doesn't really allow for storing a number of foils together (where they'll all curl together).  Does anyone have any good suggestions for how to straighten out curled foil cards, or to keep foils from curling in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2021-08-03T17:31:35.063" Title="How can I keep Magic foils flat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12333" CreationDate="2013-06-27T18:10:24.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barring multiplayer range of influence rules (see comprehensive rule section 801), &lt;em&gt;each creature&lt;/em&gt; means that each (therefore, &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt;) creature on the battlefield will be dealt damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in the nitty-gritty &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; which spell this out, this is a consequence of comprehensive rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.2. Effects apply only to permanents unless the instruction's text states otherwise or they clearly can apply only to objects in one or more other zones.&#xA;Example: An effect that changes all lands into creatures won't alter land cards in players' graveyards. But an effect that says spells cost more to cast will apply only to spells on the stack, since a spell is always on the stack while a player is casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it's moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.1a Damage can't be dealt to an object that's neither a creature nor a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A particularly tricky opponent could &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghostly%20Flicker&quot;&gt;Ghostly Flicker&lt;/a&gt; their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; in response to your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyroclasm&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt; and save it. When the 'Flicker resolves, the Nexus would return to the battlefield having no memory of being a creature a moment before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T18:10:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12334" CreationDate="2013-06-27T18:21:34.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the tendency for foils to curl is due to humidity. The difference in moisture absorption between the foil side and back of the card causes the card to curl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the caveat that I've not tried this myself, I suggest adding silica gel or a similar desiccant to your storage box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as storing foils together, you might try flipping each card so the foil sides and back sides touch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-06-27T18:21:34.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12333" CreationDate="2013-06-28T04:43:43.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;creature&quot; means &quot;creature permanent&quot; which means &quot;creature card or token on the battlefield&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T04:43:43.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12334" CreationDate="2013-06-28T08:09:47.900" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sleeving cards helps keep them flat. Additionally, there are &quot;perfect&quot; or &quot;pro&quot; fit sleeves, which fit cards tightly and can be inserted inside other sleeves. The stiffness of double-sleeving will help a card maintain its shape, as well as protecting expensive cards from rough shuffling or when they are migrating between sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, in combination with a deckbox that compresses the cards a little (most of the ultra pro plastic boxes will fit 75 double-sleeved cards, just about) will keep your foils from bending too much. In general, the best advice is to keep them in a deck and keep that deck packed tightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-12-19T18:22:14.313" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T18:22:14.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12343" CreationDate="2013-06-28T16:35:01.150" Score="13" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to design a game where there are X citizens + 1 saboteur.  Unfortunately for the saboteur he does not know that he is it.  All the citizens know that one of them is replaced, and they all have a &quot;guess&quot; as to who the saboteur is, but they can't be sure if their guess is correct of if they are themself the saboteur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want every person to know that it is either a specific player or themselves. Everyone's &quot;guess&quot; for the saboteur is correct, except for the saboteur, whose guess is another player at random. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thought was to deal out role cards, and have everyone reveal their cards to everyone else but not look at their own card.  This unfortunately does not work.  The saboteur would just not see any saboteur cards and know he is it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to set this up without using a moderator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-06-29T19:38:06.453" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T18:29:43.573" Title="Creating an &quot;Everyone but me knows my role&quot; mechanic" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2013-06-28T16:48:12.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you can change the game such that there are multiple saboteur roles(except less likely to come up), and then just not deal all of the role cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might also be interesting to see how the game plays out when there are no saboteurs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T16:48:12.110" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2013-06-28T18:05:43.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eventually, the saboteur must learn that he is the saboteur, otherwise he won't be able to sabotage anything (unless the game is entirely predetermined, in which case it isn't actually a game, like snakes and ladders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can &lt;em&gt;delay&lt;/em&gt; his learning of his role. Let's say that each player has certain actions they can take (maybe they have cards to play). You can set it up so only the saboteur has cards that are sabotage cards, and that he doesn't see them until a few turns in. This can be accomplished with something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards are separated into two piles: a large 'good' pile and a small 'bad' pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards are separated further into piles for each player. Only one of the piles will have any bad cards (and may optionally contain a few good cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A person who did not do the separations above proceeds to randomize the position of each pile. In this way, no player knows which pile is the bad pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A few good cards are then put on the top of each pile. This will delay the revelation of who the bad player is until a few turns in (at which point, he may well have the best 'good' setup, only to learn he has to destroy it!! Mwahahaha!!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now perhaps you're not using cards, but you might be able to do something similar to this, or use it as inspiration for a cool mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T18:05:43.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2013-06-28T19:59:22.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the deal deck include 2 or 3 saboteurs, but be 2 or three cards larger than the number of players. Therefore, if he doesn't see a saboteur, he knows he's it, but seeing one doesn't let him off the hook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, Deal 2 cards to each player. Each shows them to everyone else without looking. Then, after the process, everyone randomly picks one of their two, and discards face down the other. Everyone knows who might be the saboteur except the saboteur.  Works best if there are multiple saboteur cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T19:59:22.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2013-06-28T20:25:00.637" Score="14" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Working Solution:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; players, you need two identical decks of cards, each with cards numbered &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;n-1&lt;/code&gt;. Keep the first deck ordered from &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; at the bottom, to &lt;code&gt;n-1&lt;/code&gt; at the top, and add a random card from the second deck to the top of the first deck. Set the rest of the second deck aside. Each player will get a single card from the first deck, telling them the relative position of the (alleged) saboteur. For example, if you get a &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; that means the saboteur is the 2nd person to your &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt; (or yourself). Because the cards are ordered, all the cards from the first deck will point to the same person. The one card from the other deck points to another player at random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To distribute the cards, the order must be maintained but the starting point can be anywhere in the deck. So, the deck is &quot;shuffled&quot; by repeatedly cutting it, which preserves the order but randomizes the start. If the cards are dealt clockwise (to the left), then the relative positions will be also be clockwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Characteristics:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Everyone has equal probability of being the saboteur, and the civilian the saboteur is mistakenly suspicious of is chosen with equal probability. Equipment is relatively simple, you only need &lt;code&gt;2*(n-1)&lt;/code&gt; cards where &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; is the maximum number of players. Two decks of playing cards with the same backs could be used in a pinch. (With a bit of preparation, a single deck could be used. Separate out &lt;code&gt;A&lt;/code&gt; through &lt;code&gt;n-1&lt;/code&gt; in two suits, and pick one of each rank at random to separate the two &quot;decks&quot;.) The only drawback I see is that mis-shuffling will mess things up, but if players are careful it shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a worked example of this scheme see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12355/122&quot;&gt;TTTPPP's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll save my previous solution attempts below, none work completely as the one above does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Almost Solution: Lots of ranked cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have many more uniquely ranked cards than players, e.g. cards numbered 1 to 100. Every player is dealt one card, and whoever has the lowest number is the saboteur. Players reveal their cards, as you suggest, to everyone but themselves (maybe Indian Poker-style, card on forehead). It generalizes: need more than one saboteur? Use the two lowest cards. Need a unknowing &quot;citizen leader&quot;? Whoever has the highest card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even do it with a regular deck of playing cards. Just determine a rank order (make sure everyone knows if Aces are high or low) and a suit order to breaks ties in rank (such as Clubs, Spades, Hearts, Diamonds, as in Sheepshead--which is where I got this idea).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Everyone has a guess to who the saboteur is. Everyone except the saboteur is right about their guess. It can be implemented with standard supplies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The non-saboteurs can't be 100% sure that they aren't the saboteur--but I really don't see a way around this. It requires a large number of cards that probably won't have another use in the game. During the reveal, there's a danger of people accidentally giving it away by asking questions clarifying the ranking of cards/staring/asking another player to confirm who they think the saboteur is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also enables people to make some educated guesses--if no one else has a particularly low card, you might get suspicious that you're the saboteur. My guess is people will overthink this and it will actually throw people off more often than it will give a good hint, which might end up making things more exciting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other Brainstorming: Cards numbered from &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;n+1&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a slightly different result, but it might be on to something so I'm recording it here in case it inspires someone else: If you have &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; players, have &lt;code&gt;n+1&lt;/code&gt; cards labeled from &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;n+1&lt;/code&gt;. Deal each player one card, with the remaining card remaining hidden (call it the hole card). The saboteur is whoever holds the card one above the hole card, with the &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; card considered one above the &lt;code&gt;n+1&lt;/code&gt; card. As above, everyone reveals their card to all but themselves. Let's say we have &lt;code&gt;n=5&lt;/code&gt; players, so 6 cards, and the &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; card is the hole card. The two people adjacent to the hole card (including the saboteur, who is 1 above the hole card) see a &quot;big hole&quot;, so they know that their card is either 1 above or 1 below the hole card, so they know they have a 50% probability of being the saboteur, and that whoever is above the big hole is the only other possibility. The people who are not adjacent the hole card see two small holes, so they can also narrow the saboteur down to two possibilities, but they know for sure that they themselves are not the saboteur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T18:29:43.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2013-06-28T20:42:28.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd need something else to make the game interesting, but as far as I understand it you could probably just draw 5 citizen cards and 1 saboteur card and put them face down in front of each person, so nobody knows who anybody is.  Then they have to try to decide if they want to do the sabotage not knowing if they are a citizen or a saboteur.  If they decide to do it, they look at their card and if they're the saboteur, they win.  If they're a citizen, they reveal their identity to the group and are out.  That way each unsuccessful attempt increases everyone else's probabilities of being the saboteur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also do something like Mafia where everyone has to try to vote on who they think the saboteur is.  Or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5468" LastActivityDate="2013-06-28T20:42:28.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12347" CreationDate="2013-06-29T02:49:29.397" Score="4" ViewCount="1398" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game manual says that if you conquer an enemy scout that is alone, you can take a loot &lt;strong&gt;as if you had won a battle&lt;/strong&gt;. It doesn't specify that it &lt;em&gt;is a battle&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason we need to know is for &lt;strong&gt;Code of Laws&lt;/strong&gt;. Upon winning a battle, you can get a coin token to place on that research for future investing. So is conquering a scout that is alone considered a battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5391" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T06:12:06.517" Title="Is killing an enemy scout considered a battle?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12346" CreationDate="2013-06-29T06:12:06.517" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. If you aren't drawing square unit cards, a battle isn't taking place&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/support/civilization-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFG rule book (page 23)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Battle is the struggle of one civilization against another for dominance. When an army figure moves into a square containing a village marker, an enemy army figure, or an enemy city, a battle takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had continued reading the section ENEMY FIGURES, you should have realized that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scouts cannot enter a square containing enemy figures. If an army enters a square containing any enemy figures, its movement immediately ends. If the square contains only enemy scouts, the scouts are immediately killed and the attacking player collects loot as though they had won a battle (see page 25). &lt;strong&gt;If the square contains at least one enemy army, a battle occurs (see page 23).&lt;/strong&gt; If the square contains a mix of both enemy armies and scouts, a battle occurs, but if the losing side in the battle has any scouts in the square, they are killed along with the armies; loot is then collected as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T06:12:06.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12348" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12350" CreationDate="2013-06-29T09:06:56.027" Score="6" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group of players has increased in size quite a lot, and we wanted to start having tournaments and league games. However, we don't want to restrict ourselves to 2 player games only, like Twilight Struggle or Android: Netrunner (even though these are great games!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;We would like to have a league in Game of Thrones. How would you do it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The simplest answer is &quot;rank everyone and give points to the top 3&quot;, or something like that. I'm sure there are better ideas out there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2013-06-30T04:27:33.220" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T04:27:33.220" Title="How can we play Game of Thrones as a league game?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12348" CreationDate="2013-06-29T13:17:04.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There should be some rule concerning alliances, I think I will go with something like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 pts for winner, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 pts for second place &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and 1 pts for third &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I would allow players to promise each other some fraction of these points to others in exchange for help/alliance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The open question is if that should be done on the last three rounds basis (If both declare help, then after the game points are split or just decided by winners at end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And remember: You Win or You Die! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-06-29T22:33:55.403" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T22:33:55.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12348" CreationDate="2013-06-29T17:57:01.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;In simplest tournament form&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each round winners advance to next round, losers do not. If an alliance wins, they advance together for that round only. 2nd place matters not...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;For a longer format&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone gets to play up to &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; games of &lt;em&gt;Y&lt;/em&gt; game opportunities. Winners (individual or alliance) get 3 points each, losers get 1. After the &lt;em&gt;Y&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;th opportunity has been played, count up total points. Top 4-6 players by points advance. If more than 6 are tied, have two tables, and divide the tied players between them, and then take the winners from both, and if needed the 2nd place players from both, to make a 3-6 player final.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each of the &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; games, randomize from those present - I recommend using 3x5 cards with player names on them, and tracking of wins and losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2nd place - why not?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;awarding points for non-victory is a complication that, while it can advance consistently passable players to finals, doesn't actually select for the best players. THe best players are good and consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What If I want to push for solo wins?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, Solo victory is a 3 point, alliance victory is a 2 point, and anything less is still 1 point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Why do losers get a point?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it pushes them up the rankings for being consistent in showing up. This is a benefit for league play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 13 player league, players A-M, has 6 weeks and enough sets for 3 tables per week. The option to endorse solo wins over alliance wins is in place. Week 6 will be &amp;quot;finals&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 1, Everyone's present, and so the tables are 5, 4 and 4. AFGHM, BCIL, and DEJK are the table layouts. A wins solo, BC win as an alliance, and J wins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 2, A is sick. Tables are thus 6 each for two tables. BDFHJM and CEGIKL. KL win alliance, BD wins shared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 3, D, K and M are stuck at work.  2 tables, 5 each. ACEIJ BFGHL. AC win shared, G wins solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 4,  N joins the league (late but enjoys play). there's a storm. Only ADGHN make it. H wins solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Week 5, Everyone shows. 5-5-4 tables. ADIKN BEGJM CFHL. A wins shared. BG win shared. H wins solo, as does N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final is H (with 9) G (with 8) A B (with 7), C &amp;amp; J (with 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    Wk  A  B  C  D  E  F  G  H  I  J  K  L  M  N&#xA;    1:  3  2  2  1  1  1  1  1  1  3  1  1  1  -&#xA;    2:  0  2  1  2  1  1  1  1  1  1  2  2  1  -&#xA;    3:  2  1  2  0  1  1  3  1  1  1  0  1  1  -  &#xA;    4:  1  0  0  1  0  0  1  3  0  0  0  0  0  1&#xA;    5:  1  2  1  1  1  1  2  3  1  1  1  1  1  3&#xA;  Tot:  7  7  6  5  4  4  8  9  4  6  4  5  4  4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if run without the penalty for shared, the numbers look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    Wk  A  B  C  D  E  F  G  H  I  J  K  L  M  N&#xA;    1:  3  3  3  1  1  1  1  1  1  3  1  1  1  -&#xA;    3:  0  3  1  3  1  1  1  1  1  1  3  3  1  -&#xA;    3:  3  1  3  0  1  1  3  1  1  1  0  1  1  -  &#xA;    4:  1  0  0  1  0  0  1  3  0  0  0  0  0  1&#xA;    5:  1  3  1  1  1  1  3  3  1  1  1  1  1  3&#xA;  tot:  8 10  8  6  4  4  9  9  4  6  5  6  4  4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The finals would be B (10), GH (9) AC (8). we don't go to the 6's because that would trigger a second table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the longer the league plays, the more important consistent play is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T17:57:01.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8603" CreationDate="2013-06-29T18:03:56.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all you want to do this action exactly twice a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First time early, it depends on your turn order and on your opponents move. Ideally it would be around second or third round, so that you get more then one new imp, but it is not too late in the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second time is a trade-off between penalty from not getting all your imps and have them used more times, I would go for them in round 4. Make sure to get at least 2 new imps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider going for imps additional time in last round if your opponents have lots of imps away to prevent opponents from getting them and so that they get penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T18:03:56.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12352" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-29T22:18:23.673" Score="11" ViewCount="1490" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a corporation installs an upgrade on a remote server, should the runner be able to tell it's an upgrade, and not an asset or agenda?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can install multiple upgrades, but only one asset or agenda.  If you install an upgrade and an agenda/asset, does it matter how you place them on the table?  Should the runner be able to tell whether you have an agenda/asset and an upgrade, or two upgrades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5473" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T20:58:18.067" Title="Should runners be able to tell the difference between installed upgrades and agendas/assets?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2013-06-29T22:46:39.540" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;well, in the computer game, you can control which victories to implement. you can check the box by the domination victory, so that no one can we by domination for example. the simple fix for this is to decide at the beginning of the match that victory by technology is not an option. hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5474" LastActivityDate="2013-06-29T22:46:39.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12352" CreationDate="2013-06-30T13:50:12.197" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/2013-February/Netrunner%20LCG%20FAQ%201.1.pdf&quot;&gt;Netrunner FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where is an upgrade installed in a remote server?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  An upgrade is&#xA;  installed in a remote server in the same position  as an agenda or&#xA;  asset. The Runner should not be able to tell  what type of card is&#xA;  installed in a remote server by its position.  This is different than&#xA;  installing an upgrade in a central server,  where it is always&#xA;  installed in the root.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T13:50:12.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12339" CreationDate="2013-06-30T16:45:49.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take two decks of cards with the numbers 1 to n-1 on them. The first deck should be in order, 1 at the bottom and n-1 at the top.  The second deck should be shuffled.  Put one card at random from the second deck face down on top of the first deck. Pass the created deck around the table, with people cutting and restacking it, so that the cards remain in the same order, but no one knows which card is at the top. Deal one card to each player around the table in a clockwise direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chosen player is the one with the random card from the second deck.  Each player holds a card with some number x on it, and knows that either they have been chosen, or it is the player x places clockwise around the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worked example for ten players (all cards are face down, top of deck is at the left)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Initial decks&#xA;First Deck: 9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1&#xA;Second Deck: 4,2,5,1,9,6,7,3,8&#xA;&#xA;Add random card to first deck&#xA;First Deck: 5,9,8,7,6,5,4,3,2,1&#xA;&#xA;Cut several times&#xA;First Deck: 5,4,3,2,1,5,9,8,7,6&#xA;&#xA;Deal to players A to J&#xA;A5 B4 C3 D2 E1 F5 G9 H8 I7 J6&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By looking at their card, most players know that either they have been selected, or that player F has been selected. F knows that either they have been selected, or player A has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2013-06-30T16:45:49.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-06-30T21:11:50.020" Score="5" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a hero defeats a monster and it becomes the overlord's turn, if the overlord places that monster back on the board where it was defeated, is the monster activated and can the overlord use it during that round that it was placed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5477" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-06-30T22:30:49.470" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T07:22:48.913" Title="Can the overlord immediately place and activate a defeated monster?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2013-07-01T01:10:17.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that purchasing a transport in the Mediterranean with Germany is justified only if Russia's opening attack(s) went poorly. We are discussing the 'Classic Edition' of Axis and Allies as opposed to the newer Spring of 1942 edition, correct? If so, I often load up two infantry onto the starting Mediterranean transport and move it and the battleship to the sea zone above Anglo-Egypt Sudan. The battleship should be able to take care of the British submarine there. If you aren't feeling lucky, throw in a fighter from either Eastern Europe or the Ukraine S.S.R. If the British submarine lands a hit on you, take the battleship. Even though it's three times as expensive as the transport, for tactical purposes, I find that you're better off losing it. If Russia didn't take out one of your fighter units from either Eastern Europe or the Ukraine (they probably did, but you never know), throw it into this battle as well and land it in Libya. If you don't use it against the British submarine, use it in the land battle for Anglo-Egypt Sudan just for additional reassurance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, three infantry and the tank blitzing through French Equatorial Africa into Egypt should be enough to overwhelm Britain's Egyptian defenses by Germany's first turn. The battleship off of Gibraltar can be dealt with using your bomber out of Germany and a fighter from Western Europe (you may lose the fighter, but Germany should be buying at least one fighter for the first two turns anyway). This move has an above average chance for success, as you'll have the British outgunned in Egypt six or more hit dice to their four. Additionally, this forces the British player to transfer valuable units in India to counter your victory in Egypt (which opens it up to three free i.p.c. points for Japan, which Britain will never get back), or risk losing significant amounts of points to Germany in Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use the U-boat in the Atlantic, two fighters (one from Germany, the other from Finland/Norway), and the Baltic fleet to (assuming either that the Russian navy didn't attack it, or was defeated in the attempt to) attack the U.K. home fleet. Use your ground forces to take back in strength whatever the Russians took off of you on their opening turn. The key to keeping Germany in the war is keeping British transports out of the U.K. sea zone and keeping the manpower moving towards the Russians. Buying an additional transport on Germany's first turn can be costly to their initial 32 precious i.p.c. points, points which should be spent on combating Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5478" LastEditorUserId="5478" LastEditDate="2013-07-01T01:16:37.373" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T01:16:37.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12361" CreationDate="2013-07-01T14:03:53.850" Score="2" ViewCount="1338" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the newly spoiled cards in Magic 2014, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strionic%20Resonator&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt;, allows you to copy a triggered ability you control. This allows you to copy any of a number of things that previously would happen only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used this card to copy a &lt;strong&gt;miracle&lt;/strong&gt; trigger such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terminus&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt;, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T12:49:12.703" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T07:35:21.530" Title="What happens when a miracle trigger is copied?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12362" CreationDate="2013-07-01T15:26:45.583" Score="1" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similarly to my previous question, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12359/what-happens-when-a-miracle-trigger-is-copied&quot;&gt;what happens when a miracle trigger is copied?&lt;/a&gt;, Strionic Resonator, a new card printed in Magic 2014 could also be used to copy a transform trigger such as on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHuntmaster%20of%20the%20fells%5d&quot;&gt;Huntmaster of the fells&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens when this trigger is copied?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T15:39:55.653" Title="What happens if a transform trigger is copied?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12359" CreationDate="2013-07-01T15:29:31.553" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can choose to play the card for its Miracle cost on either the original or the copied triggered ability, or not at all, but not twice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93. Miracle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;702.93a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.11). &amp;quot;Miracle [cost]&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it's the first card you've drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;702.93b If a player chooses to reveal a card using its miracle ability, he or she plays with that card revealed until that card leaves his or her hand, that ability resolves, or that ability otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability that gets copied is the &amp;quot;you may cast it (the card) by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost&amp;quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now you have the revealed Miracle card in hand, and 2 of those triggers on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the first trigger resolves, you may choose to play the card for its Miracle cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do, you cast it, and eventually the 2nd trigger gets to resolve. However, the card the trigger refers to is no longer in your hand and the trigger simply vanishes without further effect. That also applies if another effect (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRemand%5d&quot;&gt;Remand&lt;/a&gt;) returns the card to your hand before the second trigger resolves, because it's a new object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are nine exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't cast the card on the first trigger, the card will remain in your hand, revealed, and you may choose to cast it for its Miracle cost on resolution of the 2nd trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T07:35:21.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12360" CreationDate="2013-07-01T15:39:55.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If multiple transform abilities are on the stack for the same object, it will simply transform back and forth on each resolved trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is pretty straightforward. It's the same object, and a transform simply flips the switch, no matter which side is currently on top, because Transform is not specific to either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodline%20Keeper&quot;&gt;Bloodline Keeper&lt;/a&gt; fully applies here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T15:39:55.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12402" CreationDate="2013-07-01T17:12:11.883" Score="16" ViewCount="4716" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/12339/122&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; reminded me of a problem I thought of some time back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love playing the Resistance (particularly with the plot cards), but I always find the eyes closed, open, closed, open business slightly awkward.  This is particularly the case if there is someone in the group that I don't know very well, or who hasn't played before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone unfamiliar with the game, the setup is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone watches while a deck of role cards is created with x good and y bad cards where x+y is the number of players (the exact values of x and y are given in the rules, but it's not relevant for the question).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players are dealt a role card telling them whether they are good or bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players close their eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All bad guys open their eyes and look at each other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All bad guys close their eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players open their eyes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone knows how many bad guys there are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bad guys know who each other are.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The good guys have equal suspicion of all other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a neat* way to initialise the game without players having to close their eyes?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* In particular a way that doesn't require a computer or a moderator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T10:54:05.913" Title="How can I set up a game of the Resistance without anyone needing to close their eyes?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12366" CreationDate="2013-07-01T20:16:09.257" Score="17" ViewCount="63895" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the vast richness of magic rules on all the cards and the comp rules, &lt;strong&gt;is there any way at all to activate a planeswalker ability at instant speed&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, per the rules, you can only activate them once per turn as a sorcery, but are there any ways around this? Since the &quot;golden rule&quot; of magic is that when a card and the comp rules conflict, the card text wind, I figured there might, possibly, be a way around the restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rule we are trying to dodge: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;606.3. A player may activate a loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but only if no player has previously activated a loyalty ability of that permanent that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:33:33.223" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T11:33:33.223" Title="Is there ANY way to activate a planeswalker ability at instant speed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12370" CreationDate="2013-07-01T20:30:10.863" Score="5" ViewCount="6874" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am confused by this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;606.1. Some activated abilities are loyalty abilities, which are subject to special rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that seems to imply that a Loyalty ability is an activated ability which means it can be stopped by something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=46558&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=80290&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Squelch&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T21:37:47.490" Title="Can you counter a Loyalty Ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12364" CreationDate="2013-07-01T20:46:12.370" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgcombos.com/combo.php?id=100&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;There used to be a long shot that could make this happen&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You start by playing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20lattice&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt; which turns all your permanents into artifacts, including planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then you play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220529&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;March Of the Machines&lt;/a&gt;, turning your planeswalker into an artifact creature with power and toughness equal to its casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then you use the ability of an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107385&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Experiment Kraj&lt;/a&gt; to put a +1/+1 counter on the planeswalker artifact creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now since the planeswalker artifact creature has a +1/+1 counter on it, the Experiment Kraj can use all of the activated abilities of the planeswalker without any of the restrictions of a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly since the time of that post they have extensively written into the rules that there is no way to use a loyalty ability of a permanent in any way other than a sorcery and it can only be used once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;209.2. An activated ability with a loyalty symbol in its cost is a loyalty ability. Loyalty abilities follow special rules: A player may activate a loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but only if none of that permanent's loyalty abilities have been activated that turn. See rule 606, &amp;quot;Loyalty Abilities.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;606.3. A player may activate a loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but only if no player has previously activated a loyalty ability of that permanent that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To date with the exception of copying an activated ability, there is no way to use a loyalty ability more than once and you can never use them at a time other than when you could cast a sorcery, because they have restricted the use of the loyalty ability itself, not just the way a planeswalker specifically uses them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T23:47:35.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12369" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:09:24.590" Score="7" ViewCount="6230" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12366/1760&quot;&gt;An answer&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/12364/1760&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt; tells of a way to give loyalty abilities to creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically you start by playing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20lattice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mycosynth&#xA;  Lattice&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  which turns all your permanents into artifacts, this includes&#xA;  Planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then you play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;March Of the&#xA;  Machines&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  turning your Planeswalker into an artifact creature with power and&#xA;  toughness equal to it's casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then you use the ability of an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Experimental&#xA;  Kraj&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  to put a +1/+1 counter on the Planeswalker artifact creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now since the Planeswalker artifact Creature has a +1/+1 on it, the&#xA;  Experimental Kraj can use all of the Activated Abilities of the&#xA;  Planeswalker without any of the restrictions of a Planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since creatures don't have loyalty to add to or deduct from, &lt;strong&gt;what happens if you were to use a loyalty ability from a creature, rather than a Planeswalker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the case of using a (+) loyalty ability &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; a creature, what happens?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the case of using a (-) loyalty ability &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; a creature, what happens?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T00:03:01.827" Title="What happens if you activate a loyalty ability from a creature instead of a planeswalker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12371" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:22:41.337" Score="11" ViewCount="12486" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12366/1760&quot;&gt;An answer&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/12364/1760&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt; tells of a way to turn planeswalkers into creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically you start by playing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20lattice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mycosynth&#xA;  Lattice&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  which turns all your permanents into artifacts, this includes&#xA;  Planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then you play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220529&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;March Of the&#xA;  Machines&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  turning your Planeswalker into an artifact creature with power and&#xA;  toughness equal to it's casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the ramifications of doing this? In particular, I'm curious about the answers to the following sub-questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the loyalty abilities still be activated?&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can they be activated &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the creature has attacked? (ie. during the 2nd main phase)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the creature die if it's loyalty hits 0?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the creature die if it has lethal damage counted on it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can damage applied to the creature be directed to apply to the loyalty, on only counted as damage on the creature? (ie. counted against it's toughness)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the permanent is still a planeswalker, can it still be attacked like a normal planewalker? (ie. a creature attacking the planeswalker instead of me, the player)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any other interesting fallout of converting a planeswalker into a creature that I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T08:57:51.920" Title="What are the ramifications of turning a planeswalker into a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12367" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:27:28.540" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Loyalty&lt;/em&gt; is not the same thing that &lt;em&gt;loyalty counters&lt;/em&gt;.  Non-planeswalker creatures don't have &lt;em&gt;loyalty&lt;/em&gt;, but the can have &lt;em&gt;loyalty counters&lt;/em&gt;. So, if a (+) loyalty ability is played, then we add that many loyalty counters to the creature. If a (-) loyalty ability is played, then we remove that many loyalty counters from the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that we can only play activated abilities if we can pay the cost, and loyalty abilities are activated abilities, so we can't play a (-) ability if we don't have enough counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.5. Loyalty is a characteristic only planeswalkers have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.5a The loyalty of a planeswalker not on the battlefield is equal to the number printed in its lower right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.5b A planeswalker is treated as if its text box included, &lt;strong&gt;“This permanent enters the battlefield with a number of loyalty counters on&#xA;  it equal to its printed loyalty number&lt;/strong&gt;.” This ability creates a&#xA;  replacement effect (see rule 614.1c).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.5c &lt;strong&gt;The loyalty of a planeswalker on the battlefield is equal to the number of loyalty counters&lt;/strong&gt; on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.5d Each planeswalker has a number of loyalty abilities, which are activated abilities with loyalty symbols in their costs. Loyalty&#xA;  abilities follow special rules: &lt;strong&gt;A player may activate a loyalty&#xA;  ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has&#xA;  priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her&#xA;  turn, but only if none of that permanent’s loyalty abilities have been&#xA;  activated that turn.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 606, “Loyalty Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we can see, the &lt;em&gt;loyalty&lt;/em&gt; of a planeswalker on the battlefield is linked to the number of &lt;em&gt;loyalty counters&lt;/em&gt; on it. But nothing stops a non-planeswalker permanent from having loyalty counters or loyalty abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as rule 306.5d indicates, all permanents with loyalty abilities, not just planeswalkers, may only use their loyalty abilities at sorcery speed and once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T00:03:01.827" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T00:03:01.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12365" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:37:47.490" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's correct. The rule you quoted implies that loyalty abilities are activated abilities. And since there is no rule that makes an exception for loyalty abilities, they can be countered like any other activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that countering an activated ability only stops it from resolving. The costs paid are not returned. So the loyalty counters added or removed are not restored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2013-07-01T21:37:47.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12368" CreationDate="2013-07-01T21:55:04.890" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can the loyalty abilities still be activated?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Can they be activated after the creature has attacked? (ie. during the 2nd main phase)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes and yes. Nothing stops loyalty abilities from being activated just because Planeswalker is not the only type on the card. Actually, nothing stops a loyalty ability from being activated even if the permanent has not the Planeswalker type. Also, a loyalty ability doesn't include the tap simbol, so it doesn't matter if the creature is tapped or has summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the creature die if it's loyalty hits 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5i If a planeswalker has loyalty 0, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the creature die if it has lethal damage counted on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can damage applied to the creature be directed to apply to the loyalty, on only counted as damage on the creature? (ie. counted against it's toughness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It counts for both. So if the creature-planeswalker is dealt two damage, you remove two loyalty counters &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; mark two damage on it (remember that damage does not reduce thoughness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the permanent is still a planeswalker, can it still be attacked like a normal planewalker? (ie. a creature attacking the planeswalker instead of me, the player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Planeswalkers can be attacked by creatures. There is no exception in the rules for a planeswalker that is also a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a wrap-up: to a permanent that is both a creature and a planeswalker, both rules for creatures and rules for planeswalkers apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-03-01T08:57:51.920" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T08:57:51.920" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12356" CreationDate="2013-07-02T15:07:52.993" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would vote for: &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the real question is, can the Overloard place it directly on his turn, or does he have to wait until the next round? I think there is nothing in the rules that presses him to wait. I think the rules for reinforements are clear about when they occur, they are usually given in the scenario description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a monster on the board, the Overlord can activate it. There is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; summoning sickness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5482" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T15:07:52.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12363" CreationDate="2013-07-02T16:21:51.983" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got a secret channel (the role cards) and the ability to broadcast a shared secret, so any implementation that uses those two features can be made to work. There are an unlimited number of such implementations. Each one varies in the security of the code, and the difficulty or tediousness of the discovery process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The eyes open/shut approach is elegant, and it will be hard to make something more convenient. Its only real disadvantage is the temptation to easily cheat and sneak a peak. You also have to remember who your fellow bad guys are (unless you repeat the process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few concrete examples to make this less abstract:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Mark the face of each role card with a colour, and provide pawns of all colours. Mark each bad guy card with the set of (one or more) bad guy colours. Each player places a pawn of that colour in front of them. By comparing the pawns in play with the bad guy colours on your card (if any), you can see who the bad guys are. The good guys can't see the list of bad guy colours, so they are left to speculate. For multiple games, duplicate the role cards with different bad guy colours in each set of role cards. Choose the set of role cards randomly each game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Each role card has a four letter code, and a decipher code. Each player places the code in front of them where everyone else can see it. Only players with bad guy roles have a decipher code which is useful. For example, a simple &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Substitution_cipher&quot;&gt;substition cipher&lt;/a&gt; (a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caesar_cipher&quot;&gt;Caesar cipher&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Code: DUHK or FNNC&#xA;Decipher code: 1111&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add the decipher code shift to the code, to move each letter on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; DUHK&#xA;+1111&#xA;-----&#xA; EVIL&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indicating that player is a bad guy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you can make the ciphering scheme as complex as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The role card indicates that bad guys are to all make a secret sign, for example, to rest their left hand on the table, or touch their face or hair. Again, multiple sets of role cards indicate different hidden gestures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T16:21:51.983" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12374" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-02T20:07:48.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belote&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Belote&lt;/a&gt; is a trick-taking card game. It is very popular in France where it appeared at the end of the first World War. It is played by 4 people (2 teams of two players), but some varieties requires from 2 to 6 players. The classic game is played using a 32-card &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piquet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;piquet&lt;/a&gt; deck. The goal is to get more points than the opposite team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T20:07:48.170" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T20:07:48.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12375" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-02T20:07:48.170" Score="0" Body="A trick-taking card game, played with a 32-card piquet deck." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-02T20:07:48.170" LastActivityDate="2013-07-02T20:07:48.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5370" CreationDate="2013-07-03T08:20:19.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lot of resources to learn new words. Since &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trucosapalabrados.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apalabrados&lt;/a&gt; (Angry Words) game went out, many word-finding web applications have been built. You can try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.angrywordstricks.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.angrywordstricks.com&lt;/a&gt; that has a huge English dictionary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5484" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T08:20:19.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12378" CreationDate="2013-07-03T15:58:31.633" Score="4" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLullmage%20Mentor%5d&quot;&gt;Lullmage Mentor&lt;/a&gt;'s ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tap seven untapped Merfolk you control: Counter target spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I attempt to tap less than 7 creatures with his second ability? I know it would not activate his second ability, but can I at least make the attempt to tap 7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically can I intentionally fail to tap 7 creatures and those creatures still get tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:51:10.883" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:51:10.883" Title="Can I tap fewer than 7 creatures with Lullmage Mentor?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12377" CreationDate="2013-07-03T16:30:46.483" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you can't.  due to rule 117.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.3. A player can’t pay a cost unless he or she has the necessary&#xA;  resources to pay it fully. For example, a player with only 1 life can’t pay a cost of 2 life, and a permanent that’s already tapped can’t be tapped to pay a cost. See rule 202, “Mana Cost and Color,” and rule 602, “Activating Activated Abilities”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the text: &lt;code&gt;&quot;tap 7 merfolk&quot;&lt;/code&gt; is before the &lt;code&gt;:&lt;/code&gt;, and therefore it's a cost.  You can't pay or attempt to pay that cost unless you are able to pay it fully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-07-03T16:40:14.783" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T16:40:14.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12380" CreationDate="2013-07-03T17:30:19.533" Score="1" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Patron%20Wizard&quot;&gt;Patron Wizard&lt;/a&gt; says I have to tap an untapped wizard. That is before the &amp;quot;:&amp;quot;, which means that is the cost. However, does there have to be a spell to target to use this ability, or can I just tap an untapped wizard and let the ability fizzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T22:51:38.840" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T22:51:38.840" Title="Do i have to have a spell target to tap a wizard creature with Patron Wizard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12379" CreationDate="2013-07-03T17:41:50.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You absolutely do have to have a target in order to use the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.2  To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs,&#xA;  so that it will even tually resolve and have its effect. Only an&#xA;  object’s controller (or its owner, if it doesn’t have a controller)&#xA;  can activate its activated ability unless the object specifically says&#xA;  otherwise. Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in&#xA;  order. &lt;strong&gt;If, at any point during the activation of an ability, a player&#xA;  is unable to comply with any of those steps, the activation is&#xA;  illegal; the game returns to the moment before that ability started to&#xA;  be activated (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”)&lt;/strong&gt;. Announcements&#xA;  and payments can’t be altered after they’ve been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you have to choose a target in order to cast a spell or activate an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2c The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. A spell&#xA;  may require some targets only if an alternative or additional cost&#xA;  (such as a buyback or kicker cost), or a particular mode, was chosen&#xA;  for it; otherwise, the spell is cast as though it did not require&#xA;  those targets. If the spell has a variable number of targets, the&#xA;  player announces how many targets he or she will choose before he or&#xA;  she announces those targets. The same target can’t be chosen multiple&#xA;  times for any one instance of the word “target” on the spell. However,&#xA;  if the spell uses the word “target” in multiple places, the same&#xA;  object, player, or zone can be chosen once for each instance of the&#xA;  word “target” (as long as it fits the targeting criteria). If any&#xA;  effects say that an object or player must be chosen as a target, the&#xA;  player chooses targets so that he or she obeys the maximum possible&#xA;  number of such effects without violating any rules or effects that say&#xA;  that an object or player can’t be chosen as a target. The chosen&#xA;  players, objects, and/or zones each become a target of that spell.&#xA;  (Any abilities that trigger when those players, objects, and/or zones&#xA;  become the target of a spell trigger at this point; they’ll wait to be&#xA;  put on the stack until the spell has finished being cast.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.2b The remainder of the process for activating an ability is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2b –&#xA;  h. Those rules apply to activating an a bility just as they apply to&#xA;  casting a spell. An activated ability’s analog to a spell’s mana cost&#xA;  (as referenced in rule 601.2e) is its activation cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-25T03:29:28.810" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T03:29:28.810" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12392" CreationDate="2013-07-03T18:28:08.620" Score="4" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amulet of Sun reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If played during the Night, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say whether it lasts just one turn, or the whole Night (one round). Which is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5432" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T22:56:03.907" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T22:56:03.907" Title="Amulet of Sun artifact: lasts one turn, or the whole round?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12384" CreationDate="2013-07-03T18:55:30.397" Score="3" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=render%20silent&quot;&gt;render silent&lt;/a&gt; targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=abrupt%20decay&quot;&gt;abrupt decay&lt;/a&gt;, will my opponent still be unable to cast spells for the rest of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T19:01:45.857" Title="Render Silent and Abrupt Decay" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12382" CreationDate="2013-07-03T18:59:08.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No they can not cast spells for the rest of the turn.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of the spell is a seperate effect from the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T18:59:08.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12382" CreationDate="2013-07-03T19:01:45.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent will be unable to cast spells for the remainder of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruling on gather for Render Silent confirms this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369022&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell that “can’t be countered” is a legal target for Render Silent.&#xA;  The spell won’t be countered when Render Silent resolves, but that&#xA;  spell’s controller won’t be able to cast spells for the rest of the&#xA;  turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T19:01:45.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12387" CreationDate="2013-07-03T19:22:07.147" Score="1" ViewCount="8921" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253561&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=290543&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt; and other Return to Ravnica cards have an ability that reads '{card name} can't be counterd by spells or abilites'. Does this mean it is not a legal target for a counter spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6f An object's ability that states it can't be countered or can't be countered by spells and abilities functions on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply states those abilities function on the stack, it makes no mention of giving the spell with the ability protection from spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can they be targeted by counter spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T23:07:10.367" Title="Is a 'Can't be countered' ability the same as 'protection From' or 'Can't be targeted?'" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12385" CreationDate="2013-07-03T19:26:11.317" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;&quot;Can't be countered&quot;&lt;/code&gt; spells are still legal targets for counter-spells.  They just won't actually get countered&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this was already answered earlier today with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369022&quot;&gt;gatherer Rulings from Render Silent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4/15/2013     A spell that “can’t be countered” is a legal target&#xA;  for Render Silent. The spell won’t be countered when Render Silent&#xA;  resolves, but that spell’s controller won’t be able to cast spells for&#xA;  the rest of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and here's another ruling which will help illustrate the difference between &lt;code&gt;illegal target&lt;/code&gt;s of a spell and &lt;code&gt;can't be countered&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4/15/2013     If the spell is an illegal target when Render Silent tries&#xA;  to resolve (because it’s been countered by another spell, for&#xA;  example), Render Silent will be countered and none of its effects will&#xA;  happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-07-03T19:31:35.360" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T19:31:35.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12385" CreationDate="2013-07-03T22:58:36.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loxodon%20Smiter&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt; spells can be targeted by spells and abilities that would attempt to counter them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the spell or ability that would counter AD or LS resolves, the instructions of its effect are performed as normal except for the instruction that would counter AD or LS. That one is skipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection prevents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchantment/Equipment/Fortififcation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targeting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Can't be countered&amp;quot; prevents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Countering&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there's no relation whatsoever. Something with protection can still be countered. Something with &amp;quot;can't be countered&amp;quot; can still be targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply states those abilities function on the stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities of permanent cards normally only work when the object is on the battlefield [CR 112.6]. But you can't counter something on the battlefield. This rules makes it so LS's ability works when it needs to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it makes no mention of giving the spell with the ability protection from spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And nothing else does. It does not have Protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-07-03T23:07:10.367" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T23:07:10.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12389" CreationDate="2013-07-03T23:43:16.107" Score="2" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG/comments/1hlbp9/little_does_m14_know_its_substantially_buffing_my/cavg88c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussion on Reddit&lt;/a&gt; about bad combos mentioned combining the following two cards (Oracle included here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fist%20of%20Suns&quot;&gt;Fist of Suns&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may pay {W}{U}{B}{R}{G} rather than pay the mana cost for spells that you cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=North%20Star&quot;&gt;North Star&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{4}, {T}: For one spell this turn, you may spend mana as though it were mana of any color to pay that spell's mana cost. (Additional costs are still paid normally.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea being that by activating North Star you could pay {5} to play anything instead of the usual {W}{U}{B}{R}{G}, due to the oracle wording. The total mana cost would be 9 mana thanks to the {4} required to activate North Star of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this combo work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T01:50:15.620" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T01:50:15.620" Title="North Star and Fist of Suns" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12388" CreationDate="2013-07-03T23:43:16.107" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe it works due to the wording of the rules regarding costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.1. A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card. (See rule 107.4.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2e The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some&#xA;spells have additional or alternative costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fist of Suns has a static ability that creates an alternative cost for all spells that are played. This alternative cost if {W}{U}{B}{R}{G}. However that alternative cost is not the mana cost which is still the original printed symbols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason when both are out if you attempt to pay the alternative cost of {W}{U}{B}{R}{G} you are no longer paying the mana cost, so the ability to pay mana as if it were mana of any color no longer applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus after activating North Star with Fist of Suns in play you can either pay {W}{U}{B}{R}{G} or the CMC of the spell, but cannot choose to pay {5}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-03T23:43:16.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12396" CreationDate="2013-07-04T04:18:54.837" Score="3" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Glory to Rome, is there any rule prohibiting players from playing wildcards if I have the role in hand? For example, can I play three (or two, depending on the cardset used) laborers and call that a laborer wild card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5490" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T21:15:59.537" Title="Playing wildcard (Jacks or multiples of a role) for a role which I have in hand" Tags="|glory-to-rome|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12395" CreationDate="2013-07-04T04:29:28.517" Score="2" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;When at the hand limit, I can always draw one card. Does this include a jack, or can I only draw a face down card from the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5490" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T06:15:32.843" Title="Can I take a jack if I'm at the hand limit?" Tags="|glory-to-rome|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12381" CreationDate="2013-07-04T05:31:06.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All effects last only until end of turn.&lt;/strong&gt; This includes the effects of Amulet of Sun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/mage/MK_rulebook_ENG_searchable-mar2012.pdf&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; are unambiguous. From page 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Artifacts are Deeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect tells you to gain a new Deed card (Advanced Action, Spell, or Artifact)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Effects come from Deeds, and last only until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deed cards... provide a variety of effects that may be used on a given turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b. Other effects might allow you to modify the rules for the turn, or to gain something you wouldn't normally be able to gain...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the effect modifies some values or rules, the change always lasts until the end of the current turn (unless stated otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;a href=&quot;http://unofficialmageknighttheboardgame.wikia.com/wiki/Amulet_of_Sun&quot;&gt;Amulet of Sun&lt;/a&gt; is an Artifact:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Amulet of Sun&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gain a gold mana token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Basic]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If played during the Night, forests have their move cost reduced to 3, you can use gold mana, and you reveal garrisons of nearby fortified sites and all ruins as if it were day. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Strong]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Same as the basic effect, except you get three gold mana tokens instead of one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T05:31:06.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12393" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-04T06:06:42.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/91312/discworld-ankh-morpork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Discworld: Ankh-Morpork&lt;/a&gt; is an area control game set in Terry Pratchett's Discworld. Players are lords in the city trying to seize power, with secret objectives that might involve claiming a majority or areas or having a presence in a certain number of areas. A player's objective might also be to play through the whole game without anyone ELSE winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player has a hand of cards that let them perform certain actions, including placing pieces on the board (to help claim areas), claiming money from the bank or other players, paying to build a building that will give you some benefit, or killing off the minions belonging to other players. During their turn, a player will play a card and perform the actions on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T06:06:42.563" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T06:06:42.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12394" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-04T06:06:42.563" Score="0" Body="Discworld: Ankh-Morpork is an area control game set in Terry Pratchett's Discworld." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T06:06:42.563" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T06:06:42.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12391" CreationDate="2013-07-04T06:15:32.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Hand limit&quot; is a soft limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can take a card when at or above the hand limit. Including a Jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T06:15:32.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12390" CreationDate="2013-07-04T06:17:22.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no restriction on wildcarding that I have seen. It can be, in fact, a good idea if you need a particular ability to use a jack instead for the role, so that you can then play the card itself onto a foundation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T06:17:22.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12397" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-04T14:21:06.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somnium is a push-your-luck card game introduced as a mini-game in &lt;a href=&quot;http://kael.civfanatics.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fall From Heaven II&lt;/a&gt;, a popular mod for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Civilization_IV&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Civilization 4 PC game&lt;/a&gt;. Somnium is played with a deck of 54 cards: 3-7 in ten suits (Angels, Devils, Pentacles, Staves, Suns, Moons, Towers, Dragons, Swords and Cups) as well as three Fool cards and a Death card. The objective is to gather cards so that your set of highest-of-each-suit sum beats that of your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, you draw cards one at a time. In between each draw you may choose to end your turn and &quot;bank&quot; the cards drawn so far, but if you hit the Death card or turn up any two of the same suit, all drawn cards are discarded. The Fool cards allow you to steal a card from your opponent. In the context of the computer game, you stand to win a minor diplomacy bonus towards other leaders by besting them in a tournament game, but will suffer a likewise relation penalty by losing such a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game Designer: Derek &quot;Kael&quot; Paxton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original programmer: Stéphane &quot;Sto&quot; Nadry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Art: Stephanie Pui-Mun Law and Jason Engle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T14:21:06.390" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T14:21:06.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12398" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-04T14:21:06.390" Score="0" Body="Somnium (2 players, 10 minutes) is a push-your-luck card game introduced as a mini-game in Fall From Heaven II, a popular mod for the Civilization 4 PC game. Somnium is played with a deck of 54 cards: 3-7 in ten suits as well as three Fool cards and a Death card. The objective is to gather cards so that your set of highest-of-each-suit sum beats that of your opponent. " OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-04T14:21:06.390" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T14:21:06.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12363" CreationDate="2013-07-04T15:13:12.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know you don't want a computer-based solution, but a simple mobile app can solve this nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell it how many players you have, then pass it around the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a single button you tap to view your role. If you're a bad guy, it also shows you where in the seating order your comrades are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before you pass it to the next player, tap a button that closes your view and increments the device's internal counter of which player's role it should show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2013-07-04T15:13:12.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12401" CreationDate="2013-07-05T08:53:14.713" Score="7" ViewCount="10153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a card with the ability: &lt;em&gt;You do not lose the game being for unable to draw a card&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found one so far; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=9787&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mine, Mine, Mine!&lt;/a&gt; but it applies to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little back story; I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reliquary%20Tower&quot;&gt;Reliquary Tower&lt;/a&gt; that has the ability; &lt;em&gt;You have no maximum hand size&lt;/em&gt;. I also have several cards that allow me to get an abundance of card draws: for instance I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/card/details.aspx?name=dragon%20appeasement&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt;, if these two are paired in my devour deck I can get a wealth of cards, enabling me to play out &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=265155&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thromok the Insatiable&lt;/a&gt; all the sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would of course mill me out pretty quickly, so I was hoping for a card that does for me in prevention of loss by having no library what &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218058&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt; does for having 0 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping there's a keyword I didn't think of, and that someone has a card in mind for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T09:08:04.790" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T03:05:49.623" Title="Is there a card that protects me from a (self-)milling death?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12400" CreationDate="2013-07-05T10:03:51.827" Score="19" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Win the game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards which change &amp;quot;draw from an empty library&amp;quot; into a win condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLaboratory%20Maniac%5d&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt; is the most famous card to do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJace%2c%20Wielder%20of%20Mysteries%5d&quot;&gt;Jace, Wielder of Mysteries&lt;/a&gt; has a static effect to do the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThassa%27s%5d%2b%5bOracle%5d&quot;&gt;Thassa&amp;#39;s Oracle&lt;/a&gt; has an enters the battlefield trigger which causes you to win if the number of cards in your library is less than your devotion to blue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Shuffle your graveyard into your library&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards can cause you to shuffle your graveyard into your library, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Aeons%20torn%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons torn&lt;/a&gt; (among other mythic eldrazi cards). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElixir%20of%20Immortality%5d&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; will do the same, cheaper for a gain of 5 life. Other similar cards exist, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFinale%20of%20Revelation%5d&quot;&gt;Finale of Revelation&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGaea%27s%5d%2b%5bBlessing%5d&quot;&gt;Gaea&amp;#39;s Blessing&lt;/a&gt; is notable for shuffling your graveyard into your library specifically if it itself is milled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Don't draw a card&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlue%5d%2b%5bSun%27s%5d%2b%5bZenith%5d&quot;&gt;Blue Sun&amp;#39;s Zenith&lt;/a&gt; You can read this as &amp;quot;UUU: don't draw a card&amp;quot;, and add the card to your library, so you can draw it next turn and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Don't lose the game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various cards include a &amp;quot;you can't lose the game&amp;quot; effect, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPlatinum%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAngel%20Grace%5d&quot;&gt;Angel Grace&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Miscellaneous&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is also the slightly convoluted combo of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConsecrated%20Sphinx%5d&quot;&gt;Consecrated Sphinx&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNotion%20Thief%5d&quot;&gt;Notion Thief&lt;/a&gt; which you then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDonate%5d&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; to your opponent before doing anything to cause you to draw a card outside of your draw step. The draw will be redirected to your opponent, which will trigger the sphinx, which will allow you to redirect 2 more draws and repeat the process to mill your opponent out to defeat. Probably not as good as Lab maniac, but worth remembering.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNexus%20of%20Fate%5d&quot;&gt;Nexus of Fate&lt;/a&gt; has a replacement effect which causes it to go to your library rather than your graveyard, so you never deck yourself if you can cast it every turn (unless something else causes you to draw). As Nexus of Fate gives you an extra turn, this is a win con if you have some way of damaging the opponent on every turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMurderous%20Rider%5d&quot;&gt;Murderous Rider&lt;/a&gt; goes to the bottom of your library when it dies so you can play a similar trick with this if you can draw it and kill it every turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="32310" LastEditDate="2020-10-06T03:05:49.623" LastActivityDate="2020-10-06T03:05:49.623" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12363" CreationDate="2013-07-05T10:54:05.913" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This solution would work, though it may take a minute to perform&lt;/strong&gt;. For &lt;em&gt;p&lt;/em&gt; players, with &lt;em&gt;t&lt;/em&gt; traitors and &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;normals&amp;quot;, you need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;t&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;You are a traitor&amp;quot; cards and &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;You are a normal&amp;quot; cards, obviously&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;p&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;player&amp;quot; cards marked with &lt;strong&gt;unique&lt;/strong&gt; colours (or numbers or whatever)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 card with an identical back to the player cards and a blank face (a kind of joker)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deal each person a &amp;quot;Traitor/Normal&amp;quot; card so they know their faction, then the process is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Everyone takes a coloured &amp;quot;player&amp;quot; card&lt;/strong&gt;. Show them publicly since they identify each player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone holds their player cards with their hands under the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first player takes the blank card face-down under the table too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players will pass the spare card around under the table, BUT, if they are a traitor, &lt;strong&gt;they will instead pass their own player card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once the spare card gets back to the leader, he should keep it face-down on the table, since it reveals the identity of a traitor! Then, everyone secretly looks at their card. Normals will see their own card again, of course, but &lt;strong&gt;traitors will see the card of one other traitor&lt;/strong&gt; (or the joker if they were the first traitor).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Perform steps 4 and 5 a total of &lt;em&gt;t+1&lt;/em&gt; times&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now all players (including traitors) should have their own cards back and the leader can flip the joker to reveal that it IS the joker. &lt;strong&gt;If it isn't, someone cheated/messed up&lt;/strong&gt;. The traitors should have each learnt a new traitor's identity on each lap (except for one). Everyone should reveal their colours again to remind everyone what they were (though it's only relevant for traitors).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A detailed example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alan (Red), Ben (Blue), Chris (Green) and Dave (Yellow) are sitting round a table. &lt;strong&gt;Ben and Chris are traitors&lt;/strong&gt;. Alan, the leader, takes the joker and, because he is not a traitor, passes it to Ben. Ben IS a traitor so he keeps the joker and passes his own card to Chris. Chris - a traitor - keeps Ben's card and passes his card to Dave, who, being a normal, passes it on back to Alan. Alan puts it face-down to one side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone looks at their cards. Alan and Dave see their own. &lt;strong&gt;Ben sees the joker&lt;/strong&gt; (so he can already deduce that Alan is not a traitor). &lt;strong&gt;Chris sees the blue card (Ben's)&lt;/strong&gt;, so he knows his co-traitor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alan now takes the face-down card (Chris' green card) and passes it again. After they repeat the process, &lt;strong&gt;Ben has Chris' card&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Chris has the joker&lt;/strong&gt;. Then they perform the rotation one more time so that the traitors both get their cards back and the joker is flushed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone reveals their coloured cards and Chris confirms the owner of the blue card, while Ben confirms the owner of the green card. The game begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T10:54:05.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-05T17:03:02.440" Score="0" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any Board or Card games that can be played where not players are not required to be there at the games start in order to play? I'm thinking a game that runs similar to an MMORPG where anyone can pull up a chair, play for awhile, and leave again without upsetting the flow of the game and still enjoying a decent, well-thought-out game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5293" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:32:05.317" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T14:32:05.317" Title="On-Going / Long Running Game" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-07-05T17:36:52.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12404" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-05T17:42:09.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kids of Catan is a board game where players roll a die to rotate the board, then take the resources they need. When they have one of each resource, they build a building; first one to build all of the buildings wins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T17:42:09.800" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T17:42:09.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12405" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-05T17:42:09.800" Score="0" Body="Kids of Catan is a board game where players roll a die to rotate the board, then take the resources they need. When they have one of each resource, they build a building; first one to build all of the buildings wins. " OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T17:42:09.800" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T17:42:09.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12406" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-05T17:44:25.107" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T17:44:25.107" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T17:44:25.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12407" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-05T17:44:25.107" Score="0" Body="Like a miniature version of pool, in carrom (2-4 players, 60 minutes) players use their fingers to flick the striker at the carrom-men in a race to sink all the men of their color and finally the red queen. " OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T17:44:25.107" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T17:44:25.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12408" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:31:16.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lost Cities (2-player, 30 minutes) is a card game where players choose whether or not to make initial investments in each color and play numbered cards of the same color to try to recoup that investment and even make a profit.. Lost Cities has relatively simple rules and is family friendly. (The manufacturer recommends ages 10 and up, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/50/lost-cities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG users say&lt;/a&gt; ages 8 and up.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:31:16.927" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:31:16.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12409" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:31:16.927" Score="0" Body="Lost Cities (2-player, 30 minutes) is a card game where players compete to launch the most profitable explorations by playing colored cards in ascending order. " OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:31:16.927" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:31:16.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12410" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:34:34.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; card game, you assume control of the fate of an &lt;em&gt;eccentric family&lt;/em&gt; of misfits and misanthropes. The goal of the game is sad, but simple: you want your characters to suffer the greatest tragedies possible before passing on to the well-deserved respite of death. The player with the lowest total &lt;em&gt;Family Value&lt;/em&gt; wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Printed on transparent plastic cards, &lt;strong&gt;Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; features an innovative design: Multiple modifier cards can be played on top of the same character card; since the cards are transparent, elements from previously played modifier cards either show through or are obscured by those played above them. You'll immediately and easily know the worth of every character, no matter how many modifiers they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bwzRq.png&quot; alt=&quot;http://www.atlas-games.com/images/CthulhuGloomCardFanWEB.png&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can play with &lt;strong&gt;Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; system in the &lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu&lt;/strong&gt; Universe. Instead of families, in &lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu Gloom&lt;/strong&gt;, you control a group of Lovecraftian protagonists and guide them down a path of horror and madness to an untimely death, while keeping your opponents happy, healthy, and annoyingly alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu Gloom&lt;/strong&gt; is a stand-alone card game that's also fully compatible with Gloom and its expansions. It introduces Story cards and Transformation cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:34:34.680" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:34:34.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12411" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-05T18:34:34.680" Score="0" Body="In the Gloom card game, you assume control of the fate of an eccentric family. The goal is to make your family suffer the worst possible tragedies before they pass from this mortal coil, while cheering up your opponents' families." OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T18:34:34.680" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T18:34:34.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12412" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-07-05T19:57:29.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titan_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Titan&lt;/a&gt; is a fantasy war board game where each player controls an army of mythological creatures such as gargoyles, unicorns, and griffons, led by a single titan. The death of a titan eliminates that player and their entire army from the game. The player controlling the last remaining titan wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This Avalon Hill game for 2-6 players is a game of conquest. Players start with two units and can end up with up to 12 (or more if they defeat other players and take their counters). All units may move each turn, and when a unit moves into a hex it can recruit monsters to fight with it -- if it has a recruiter native to that terrain. There's a limit on unit size, so as they grow players must split them into smaller units. If two enemy units meet they must fight; the fight is conducted on tactical terrain maps using hand-to-hand (claw-to-claw?) combat, air combat, and magic strikes. Most terrains provide advantages to the defenders, making the fights more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="5332" LastEditDate="2018-07-20T18:44:57.827" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T18:44:57.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12413" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-07-05T19:57:29.457" Score="0" Body="Monster slug-a-thon game where players move units around, recruit terrain-based troops, and beat up each other for world domination. " OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-05T19:57:29.457" LastActivityDate="2013-07-05T19:57:29.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-07T01:07:23.617" Score="2" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many fish does it take to build a bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get a road building development/progress card how does that apply to bridges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5497" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-07T02:09:47.817" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T23:38:42.447" Title="How do fish and road building cards apply to bridges?" Tags="|catan|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12421" CreationDate="2013-07-07T03:30:22.080" Score="1" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using fish, the card states that 4 fish are used to buy a resource.  What is the cost, in fish, of a commodity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5497" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T15:20:32.173" Title="Settlers Cities and Knights + Fish: Cost of a commodity" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-07T03:37:02.980" Score="6" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have been playing cities and knights with fish and harbor master.  Victory points needed to win is 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two times we have played we have basically played to a deadlock.  No one with enough points to win, and no real way to get more victory points.  The only way to get additional points would be through the defender of catan, but by the time the pirate ship comes around the players in the running to win can match knight strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has kind of ruined the game for me.  Any ideas or suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5497" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:35:17.450" Title="Cities and Knights: Played to virtual deadlock" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12416" CreationDate="2013-07-07T04:51:32.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's see...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 settlements 5VP&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4 cities =8 VP&lt;br&gt; &#xA;Longest Road = 2VP&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Metropolis = +2VP (above the city it's on) (3 of them).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2 1VP progress cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 Defender of Catan VP's as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a progress card that allows removal of an opponent's knight. Time it for just before the barbarians, and make him pull one, then you get your VP for Defender of Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember - Defender of Catan is earned for there being enough knights... and being the man with the most strength when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have misplayed so that your cities and settlements are more than 2 apart, then you've simply played poorly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible that, through particularly poor play, you might be stuck at 13 VP; if all the VP cards are out, and you're out of spots to play, it is time to call it, and I'd call it a double loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note however: The Fishermen of Catan does not increase VP to win (unless you hold the old boot), and the Harbor Master variant only increases VP needed by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T04:51:32.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12418" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12420" CreationDate="2013-07-07T08:45:14.460" Score="2" ViewCount="9385" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368549&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twilight Drover&lt;/a&gt; with multiple counters, I have the following questions which also apply to other creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many times can I play the activated ability within one turn when it does not have the TAP symbol? I want to clarify as some people say once and other people say as many times as long as I have mana for it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I only play the activated ability on my turn or can I also play it when it is not my turn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the creature had two different activated abilities and neither ability had the TAP symbol nor asked you to only choose one, then can you play both of the abilities or only one of them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can any of the activated abilities be countered? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T10:24:27.997" Title="How to properly play activated abilities of twilight drover and other creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12418" CreationDate="2013-07-07T10:24:27.997" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1: Activated abilities always have the pattern &amp;quot;cost:effect&amp;quot;, and as long as you can pay the costs, you can activate it as often as you like. There are a few exceptions where you have a limited number of activations per turn, but those will always be printed on the card. Note that the TAP symbol is a cost like any other, and if you manage to untap your permanent, you can use that ability again without issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: You can activate non-mana, non-Planeswalker abilities at instant speed. Again, exceptions are printed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: There are no such restrictions, except for Planeswalker abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Yes, but very few cards do that, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;. An ability is not a spell, so cards that counter spells do not work on abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T10:24:27.997" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12415" CreationDate="2013-07-07T15:20:32.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot buy commodities using fish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://download.catan.com/en/download/?combination-Fishermen_Cities-and-Knights.pdf&quot;&gt;http://download.catan.com/en/download/?combination-Fishermen_Cities-and-Knights.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you discard 3 fish, you may draw one card from the hand of one of your opponents  (Resource or Commodity Card). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you discard 4 fish, you may take resource card but not a commodity. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The following applies also for the combination with Cities &amp;amp; Knights: Fish are no resources  – and no commodities. This implies&#xA;  that fish are never affected by Progress Cards,  particularly not by&#xA;  the yellow Progress Cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T15:20:32.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12423" CreationDate="2013-07-07T19:03:21.867" Score="1" ViewCount="10458" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example if &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226751&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Falkenrath Noble&lt;/a&gt; was tapped and another creature dies then would his triggered ability still trigger or only if it was not tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T20:41:42.217" Title="Do triggered abilities still trigger if the creature is tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12422" CreationDate="2013-07-07T21:03:10.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Whether an permanent is tapped or not has no effect on its abilities. This is the case for abilities of all kinds (static, triggered and activated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three things change when a creature is tapped:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is considered tapped by anything that cares.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It cannot be tapped. (Effects instructing to tap the permanent are skipped. Costs consisting of tapping the permanent can't be payed.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It cannot attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that the first two items can indirectly prevent abilities from triggering (&quot;Whenever an untapped creature dies, ...&quot;) or from functioning (&quot;..., tap it. If you do, ...&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5503" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T20:41:42.217" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T20:41:42.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3483" CreationDate="2013-07-07T21:29:35.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crane is intended to be a building upgrade in addition to your normal build. Sure, if you mistake the crane's upgrade power for your regular build then you never see it played by the winning player in a review of 300,000+ online games but if you use it like the building phase version of trading post, aqueduct, prefecture, or gold mine, it can occasionally be useful. It still costs you a card out of your hand to use if you overbuild a building with a same cost building or you have to pay the difference if it is a higher cost building. It is about 80% as effective as the chapel for converting cards into VPs but it lets you get a different building power if the old building wasn't working out for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crane, like most 2 cost cards, works best when used in combination with other cards, namely the smithy, quarry or carpenter. You can then upgrade your building one level for no cost and with the quarry and carpenter together you can come out 1 card ahead. Its harder than using the well or market stand to get an extra card but its doable. What the crane is best for, and the only way it can help you win, is late in the game to replace old buildings with monuments or a value 6 building. You can squeeze out a slightly higher vp/card ratio and lets you burn extra cards in your hand that you would be stuck holding at the end of the game. Again, the chapel is a better card overall but the crane can be situationally better if you have the right cards in your hand later and you were forced to play something lackluster earlier in the game like the gold mine, black market or sugar mill. Its better to throw down something than nothing if you don't have anything good to play because you can hope to fix it later with the crane. A lost build is something you almost never make up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5504" LastEditorUserId="5504" LastEditDate="2013-07-07T22:11:51.490" LastActivityDate="2013-07-07T22:11:51.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12414" CreationDate="2013-07-08T00:31:15.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/combinations/fishermen-catan-rivers-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/service/combinations/fishermen-catan-rivers-catan&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;If you pay 6 fish, you can build a bridge&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the rules for the Rivers of Catan scenario specifically state that you cannot use the &quot;Road Building&quot; development card to build a bridge, and that would seem to extend to any combination of expansions/scenarios that replaces the normal development cards (including the Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians scenario, or the Cities &amp;amp; Knights progress cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T00:31:15.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12429" CreationDate="2013-07-08T06:11:50.000" Score="0" ViewCount="3195" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368537&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vampire Outcasts&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366455&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadow Slice&lt;/a&gt;, does Bloodthirst/Cipher only activate when combat damage is dealt directly to a player? For example, if an opponent blocks my attacking creature then the combat damage is dealt to the creature and not the &quot;player&quot;, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I be thinking in terms of since the player and the creature are separate then any combat damage dealt to a creature is not the same as a combat damage dealt to the player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="5354" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T07:27:05.380" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T07:27:05.380" Title="Clarifying combat damage to player with abilities like Bloodthirst and Cipher" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12427" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12428" CreationDate="2013-07-08T06:18:48.950" Score="3" ViewCount="3405" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I attack with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sengir Vampire&lt;/a&gt; which is a 4/4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent declares four 1/1 blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would Sengir Vampire die or would it gain counters from the three 1/1 creatures that died before attacking the last 1/1 blocker? Thus allowing it to survive while killing the four 1/1 blockers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T20:48:52.690" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T20:48:52.690" Title="Does a Sengir Vampire survive when blocked by four 1/1s?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12427" CreationDate="2013-07-08T07:02:06.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the creatures will deal their respective damage at the same time. Since &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368525&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sengir Vampire&lt;/a&gt;'s +1/+1 ability is a triggered ability, it uses the stack, and before any of the +1/+1 counters go onto the Vampire, it will die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions (like death from damage) will happen before the triggered ability on the stack can resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of the creatures involved have first strike, however, this changes things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Sengir Vamire has first strike, it will deal it's damage before the blockers, killing them before they have a chance to deal damage, giving it the +1/+1 counters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the blockers have first strike, they deal damage to the vampire before it deals damage to them, killing the vampire while they remain alive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all parties have first strike, the outcome is the same as if none of them did.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1760" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T18:08:58.553" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T18:08:58.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12426" CreationDate="2013-07-08T07:08:58.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player and his or her creatures are separate things. Dealing combat damage to a creature does not count as dealing combat damage to that creature's controller, and vice versa. Also, regarding your last sentence, a player never deals damage to anything, only sources controlled by that player, such as spells and creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-07-08T07:08:58.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12431" CreationDate="2013-07-08T16:15:16.023" Score="3" ViewCount="12155" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend got some new survivors with Zombivors (zombified survivors) on the back side of their character card.  But there are no rules explaining how to play a Zombivor!  What are the rules for Zombivors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When does a survivor turn into a Zombivor?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which &quot;side&quot; does a Zombivor play for?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do they have free will?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the Zombivor skills &lt;em&gt;replace&lt;/em&gt; the survivor skills?  (Does XP start over from 0?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-07-08T16:32:33.913" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T17:45:04.627" Title="What are the rules for Zombivors?" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12430" CreationDate="2013-07-08T16:32:03.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official rules for Zombivors are now available &lt;a href=&quot;http://guillotinegames.com/dl/po_rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick recap:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Death and zombie infection can’t turn a real hero into a monster .&#xA;  Your favorite Survivors can make it back to the game  as Zombie heroes&#xA;  called Zombivors! When your Survivor is  eliminated by Zombies, you&#xA;  can turn him into a Zombivor:  flip his Identity Card and savor a&#xA;  bloody revenge . The Zombivors’ status is indicated with on the&#xA;  Survivors’  Identity Card . All Survivor rules apply to them . The&#xA;  killer feature about Zombivors is their incredible endurance: a&#xA;  Zombivor is only eliminated by five Wounded  Cards in his Inventory&#xA;  (instead of two for a standard  Survivor) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Zombivors are great tanks . There’s a serious drawback, though&#xA;  (besides the foul breath): at Yellow  Level, Zombivors don’t gain the&#xA;  +1 Action Skill of  standard Survivors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to explain that you can either play with them starting as zombies, or play with them starting as normal but coming back as zombies if they are defeated (which obviously is a big advantage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T17:45:04.627" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T17:45:04.627" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12433" CreationDate="2013-07-08T21:01:22.500" Score="10" ViewCount="1142" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Amber%20Prison&quot;&gt;Amber Prison&lt;/a&gt; reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may choose not to untap Amber Prison during your untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4, Tap: Tap target artifact, creature, or land. That permanent doesn't untap during its controller's untap step for as long as Amber Prison remains tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If during my turn I tap a creature, and then on my next turn I untap Amber Prison and use it to tap another creature, do both creatures remain tapped during the next untap phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T17:39:44.457" Title="Can Amber Prison prevent multiple permanents from untapping?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12432" CreationDate="2013-07-08T21:50:08.843" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way it can be done is by copying the ability (such as through &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRings%20of%20Brighthearth%5d&quot;&gt;Rings of Brighthearth&lt;/a&gt;.  With just one copy of the ability, it works as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;As long as&quot; denotes the duration of the continuous effect. The effect ends when Amber Prison is untapped, and when it ends, there is nothing preventing the first creature from untapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it&#xA;  (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts&#xA;  until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if Amber Prison is  untapped while its ability is on the stack and activated again, it wouldn't be possible, becase the effect from the first instance of the ability would not even start:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2b Some continuous effects generated by the resolution of a spell or ability have durations worded “for as long as . . . .” If the “for&#xA;  as long as” duration never starts, or &lt;strong&gt;it ends before the moment the&#xA;  effect would first be applied, the effect does nothing&lt;/strong&gt;. It doesn’t&#xA;  start and immediately stop again, and it doesn’t last forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T17:39:44.457" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T17:39:44.457" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12390" CreationDate="2013-07-09T00:16:36.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can play three Laborers as a Jack, to lead or follow the Labor action. It's a bit silly, but it gets several cards into the pool, it empties your hand, and it'll amuse everyone at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a little luck, your next Thinker action will get you more useful cards, and perhaps you can Merchant some of that Rubble into your Vault. This is particularly tempting if you can't think of anything to do with all of those Laborers in your hand. (On a side note, if your play group likes to keep the pool empty, then the Bar is particularly handy for picking up clients.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T21:15:59.537" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T21:15:59.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12436" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12437" CreationDate="2013-07-09T11:49:16.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Feast for Crows expansion came out relatively recently for A Game of Thrones: The Board Game 2nd Edition. The core set is playable 3-6 players, however, 4 player was terribly unbalanced. The expansion makes the game only 4 player, so I was wondering if they did a good job balancing the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T14:40:50.970" Title="Does Feast for Crows Expansion balance 4 player Game of Thrones?" Tags="|expansions|game-of-thrones|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12436" CreationDate="2013-07-09T14:40:50.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is certainly one of the goals of the expansion.  Whether or not it succeeds is somewhat subjective, but it currently has 23 ratings on Boardgame Geek and is averaging an 8.61 out of 10, so I would say that most people seem to think it works pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T14:40:50.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12441" CreationDate="2013-07-09T16:29:27.213" Score="9" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=198167&quot;&gt;Mul Daya Channelers&lt;/a&gt; (only her) in play and have some creature on top of the library so Mul Daya is 5/5. Now I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221559&quot;&gt;Green Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; and find &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366416&quot;&gt;Prime Speaker Zegana&lt;/a&gt; and put her into play. Now her ability triggers, but is this before or after I shuffle Green Sun's Zenith into the library? Potentially Mul Daya could be 2/2 if I shuffle first and end up with a non-creature up top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T21:37:31.843" Title="MTG: Zegana, Mul Daya Channellers and Green Suns's Zenith" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12150" CreationDate="2013-07-09T20:28:32.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Devastator does not have split fire. No marine devastator-equivalent except Space Wolves Long Fangs have the ability to target more than one unit. Fritz either made a mistake or he meant that even if they were to get split fire for free, that's still a lot of points in one unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1882" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T20:28:32.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12438" CreationDate="2013-07-09T21:06:57.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer:  Prime Speaker Zegana will get 5 +1/+1 counters, and you'll draw 6 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:&#xA;This is what happens, step by step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1: Search your library for a green creature card with converted mana cost X or less.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that technically, we can't change the order of the library while we search it, even if in practice we often do so because it matters only in very corner cases (like this one). It's usually not a problem because the cards that let us search the libary always make us shuffle it afterwards. So the top card of the libary will be the same one until we shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2: put it onto the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We put Prime Speaker Zegana on the battlefield. Its replacement effect see a 5/5 Mul Daya Channelers on the battlefield, and thus it enters the battlefield with 5 +1/+1 counters. Prime Speaker Zegana triggered ability triggers (but it doesn't go on the stack yet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3: then shuffle your library.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The library is shuffled. Now a new card will become the top card of the library. We must reveal that card because of Mul Daya Channelers ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4: Shuffle Green Sun's Zenith into its owner's library.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We shuffle Green Sun's Zenith into the library. Technically, we are shuffling a second time. Usually it's just fine to use a shortcut and shuffle just once, but because shuffling a second time will cause another card on the top of the library to be revealed, we can't use a shortcut this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5: Prime Speaker Zegana triggered ability is put on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities wait to be put on the stack until a player would get priority. After this, and when both players has passed priority, the triggered ability will resolve and 6 cards will be drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that spell don't resolve as one big event, they can have several steps that we must follow in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2c &lt;strong&gt;The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written.&lt;/strong&gt; However, replacement effects&#xA;may modify these actions. In some cases, later text on the card may&#xA;modify the meaning of earlier text (for example, “Destroy target&#xA;creature. It can’t be regenerated” or “Counter target spell. If that&#xA;spell is countered this way, put it on top of its owner’s library&#xA;instead of into its owner’s graveyard.”) Don’t just apply effects step&#xA;by step without thinking in these cases—read the whole text and apply&#xA;the rules of English to the text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;PD: also, even if the top card of the library when Green Sun's Zenith starts to resolve is the same Prime Speaker Zegana that we'll put into play, it would still get 5 +1/+1 counters. Because the replacement effect look at the other creatures just before Prime Speaker Zegana enters the battlefield, and at that time Mul Daya Channelers was still a 5/5.&#xA;It's for the same reason why Prime Speaker Zegana entering the battlefield at the same time that another creature (for exampel with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tooth%20and%20Nail&quot;&gt;Tooth and Nail&lt;/a&gt;) won't count that other creature for getting +1/+1 counters.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-07-09T21:37:31.843" LastActivityDate="2013-07-09T21:37:31.843" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12445" CreationDate="2013-07-09T21:29:02.803" Score="0" ViewCount="997" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a deck, being used for BlackJack, contains extra Aces, does the dealer have an advantage, or vice versa. Additionally, do less aces cause an effect on the dealer or players advantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4885" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T19:51:45.880" Title="Is a deck with extra aces more beneficial to a dealer, or a player?" Tags="|blackjack|cheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12442" CreationDate="2013-07-10T08:14:08.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Extra aces (without extra other cards) increase the chances of blackjacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume a normal deck, there are 4 aces, and 12 faces; this means a blackjack is (4/52)*(12/51)=48/2652, or about 12/663.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we add 4 extra aces, it instead goes to (8/56)*(12/55) = 96/3080 = 12/385.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;just over twice as many blackjacks, before accounting for splitting two aces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they pay even 6:5 on blackjacks, they have lost a good bit, because it's normally the highest paying hand, and blackjack has very low house odds favor. If they don't change the typical 3:2 payout for a blackjack, they've probably lost their house edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The house edge in blackjack is normally measured in hundredths of a percent. Double the frequency of blackjacks, and they lose money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heck, allow doubledown after a split in a single-deck blackjack table, and the house loses money, so doubling the number of blackjacks is a definite benefit to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T08:14:08.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12442" CreationDate="2013-07-10T14:07:43.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very complicated question. There are several factors to consider that make it impossible to answer without knowing a lot of details that you left out. Taken to the extreme, imagine a blackjack deck with 1 million extra Aces. In such a game, the player would have the advantage if the dealer was required to hold on 17. The player can hit until they have 18, confident that the dealer would most likely get 17 and be forced to stop. Here are some odds for adding a single extra Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Decreased Chance of Player Blackjack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;52 card: ((4/52) × (16/51)) + ((16/52) × (4/51)) = 4.82655%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;53 card: ((5/53) × (16/52)) + ((16/53) × (5/52)) = 5.80552%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds of getting BJ are the odds of getting dealt an Ace then a 10/face-card plus the reverse order. Adding in an extra Ace increases your odds by almost one percent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Increased Chance of Dealer Blackjack when player has BJ&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;52 card: ((3/50) × (15/49)) + ((15/50) × (3/49)) = 3.67347%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;53 card: ((4/51) × (15/50)) + ((15/51) × (4/50)) = 4.70588%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calculation here is much the same, except two cards are removed (the player BJ). Adding a single Ace hurts the player by over a whole percentage point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you give me a lot more detail (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hundredpercentgambling.com/page.php?pid=Single%20deck%20blackjack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there are other things to consider&lt;/a&gt;) I have no idea who has the advantage. For example with 4 Aces, you have increased your odds of BJ by almost 3.5%, but the dealer has an increase of greater than 3.5% chance of having BJ when you have BJ. Who has the advantage would require extra information on what the payout is for player BJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;56 card player BJ: ((8/56) × (16/55)) + ((16/56) × (8/55)) = 8.31169%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;56 card dealer BJ after player: ((7/54) × (15/53)) + ((15/54) × (7/53)) = 7.33753%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-07-10T19:51:45.880" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T19:51:45.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12447" CreationDate="2013-07-10T19:51:37.573" Score="4" ViewCount="5866" Body="&lt;p&gt;In King of Tokyo, you gain victory points for entering (and starting your turn in) Tokyo, but it's very painful to stay there - all of the other monsters are trying to kill you. Can you leave Tokyo voluntarily? If so, under what circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came up because there's a demo video that shows players leaving voluntarily, but the rules don't seem to have anything about it; I don't see any way to leave Tokyo except by yielding after taking damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:47:15.783" Title="Can you leave Tokyo voluntarily?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12446" CreationDate="2013-07-10T20:47:15.783" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you can only leave Tokyo as the immediate result of taking damage (from an attack) while in Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/63033/king-of-tokyo-english-rules&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) state (under &quot;Becoming King of Tokyo&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are attacked while in Tokyo and you don't want to be there anymore ... you can yield to the Monster that attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only reference to leaving Tokyo in the rulebook, and the only opportunity to leave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It also makes sense thematically; monsters wouldn't just wander off, but would only leave if forced, and only long enough to lick their wounds before they dive straight back in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T20:47:15.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12458" CreationDate="2013-07-10T22:06:30.497" Score="11" ViewCount="11009" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our gaming circle there is one person who's unfamiliar with M:tG. Now, we had the idea of buying a duel deck to get her into it (at least so her presence is not excluding / excluded by Magic as The Game of the Night), but then we fell short. We couldn't find any comparison (comprehensive or otherwise) between different decks. All we can find on the internet is reviews of single sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's most important to us is basically balance between the two deck and how well they complement eachother. I.e. the Izzet vs Golgari has graveyard shenanigans pitted against burn and control, while Ajani vs Bolas seems to be more of a white weenie vs heavy hitter. Of course, how fun the decks are to play also matter a great deal. So does availability, unfortunately, but I'll look into that later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, is there any &lt;em&gt;comparison&lt;/em&gt; of the different duel decks out there, or do I need to go through reviews of each one and see which one feels most fitting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5518" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T06:55:42.250" Title="Choosing the right Duel Deck" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2013-07-10T22:08:50.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest you do what my son and I do (He is a keen player and card collector, I know the rules enough to give him a good game). He selects two decks that he wants to analyze, and we play a red-and-white series, playing the decks one way and then the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely the rest of you all have additional decks, beside your current favourite, that might benefit from being played a different way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, let a card collector put two decks on the table, and your newbie chooses which one to play. This works when each series against an opponent is one game/match instead of two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-07-10T22:08:50.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T00:13:03.613" Score="8" ViewCount="2511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a large number of independent variables which I would like to represent on a physical game board. One idea I had was to implement these using rotating disks, a little like the metal spinning mechanism used to select numbers on some types of lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible to implement these spinning mechanisms on a physical board game as smaller plastic spinning disks? Have any games made use of this idea? Three or four of them would have to fit on a little square with many of these little squares on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, is there some other mechanism that would solve the problem more elegantly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aCombination_discs.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a picture&lt;/a&gt; of what I am considering implementing. However I am not sure of the feasibility of adding about a hundred of them to a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5519" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T02:45:40.220" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T20:56:59.770" Title="Keeping track of many independent variables on a physical board?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2013-07-11T01:10:38.137" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;One solution I've seen to this is a cardboard disk with a hole cut out; the disk can be rotated to reveal any of several items below. Battlestar Galactica does this to track resources; Chaos in the Old World tracks both advancement towards victory and threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fG4tw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fG4tw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Close up example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using 100 moving-parts dials sounds problematic. It would be a huge effort to set up, expensive to produce, and there's a lot of pieces to break. Assuming that each number to be tracked is small, another solution would be a six-sided die for each number, or using a few counters in a specified location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="21485" LastEditDate="2019-10-30T16:48:05.437" LastActivityDate="2019-10-30T16:48:05.437" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2013-07-11T06:27:29.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dials have been used on a number of board games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have usually been used on the main board as randomizers; in this role, the archetypical ones are Life and Nuclear War. Life uses a plastic base affixed to the board and a plastic wheel setting on a pin in the base, which is spun. In Nuclear War, its a plastic arrow connected to a hub, and the hub passes through a hole on the cardstock display.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other common mode is as a choice indicator. The most notable use being Avalon Hill's Dune boardgame, but several other designer games make use of them. Almost all of these use a pair of cardboard wheels with a plastic hub, sometimes 1 piece, sometimes 2 pieces, separate from the main board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rarely used, but I've seen it done, is a cardboard disk with a hub which drops into a hole drilled into the board. Chaos in the old world does this with 4 dials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another mode is just a marker which sits on a dial printed on the board. Supremacy, Imperial, and a many others use variations on this, either linear as with Supremacy, or circular as with Imperial. Note that this allows &quot;overloading&quot; a given track by having multiple markers on the same track, as with Supremacy using a black disk on the player board for Nukes and L-Stars, and colored disks for Neutron Bombs (on the Nukes track) and K-Sats (on the L-Stars Track). One of the optional rules is to use colored markers for the action type bids, placing them on the turn outline as if it were a track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, there are multiple ways to create and use pseudo-lock-dial displays, and spiners. Plastic hub and arrow assemblies are standard parts commercially available in bulk. Plastic hubs are available as well. Bindery Screw Posts can be purchased as well, which can be used with cardboard or plastic wheels to bind them to cardboard boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T06:27:29.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2013-07-11T08:05:29.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not uncommon to &lt;strong&gt;use dice to track values&lt;/strong&gt;, turning them to the appropriate side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, in Shadows over Camelot, knights use D6s to track their health in this way and for no other reason (i.e. they're never rolled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to track higher numbers, consider using D20s or even two D10s to get numbers from 00 to 99.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage with this is that they don't take up board real estate and they're easy to understand for new players. A downside might be that they're easy to knock over, but most board games suffer from knocking the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T08:05:29.857" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-11T09:03:39.593" Score="2" ViewCount="2034" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a 0-9 number wheel / plastic decagon thing available for board game construction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12450/keeping-track-of-many-independent-variables-on-a-physical-board&quot;&gt;I previously asked a question&lt;/a&gt; about possible techniques for tracking multiple variables. Here I am asking specifically about the feasibility of making a board which has little rotating decagons (about 25-50 of them), each of which cover the values 0-9, just like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Combination_discs.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this picture&lt;/a&gt;  or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trollandtoad.com/p921025.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere I can buy tiny decagon plastic rings like the first picture, to implant into a board with a little depth, that can be then be turned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5519" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T17:38:46.820" Title="Number Wheel/0-9 Decagon gear for board game?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12457" CreationDate="2013-07-11T09:28:22.717" Score="13" ViewCount="2884" Body="&lt;p&gt;While official rules allow placing the queen on the very first turn, online play, community and tournaments prohibit it. Why? Does it provide an unfair advantage? Does it quickly lead to a draw? Can you give an example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T16:10:05.377" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T22:32:56.527" Title="Why is queen placement on the first turn disallowed?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12454" CreationDate="2013-07-11T09:56:17.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're looking for something like this? &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trollandtoad.com/p921025.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Cammander's Arsenal 100hp Spindown&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are very expensive, not sure how you'd get them cheaper. I've done a little Googling and come up with nothing. Perhaps you could get them 3D printed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shapeways&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, I'd be concerned about how expensive these are, if you want to implement them across a game you want to sell it will become very prohibitive, and even if you managed to fund the release the game would have to be so expensive it would be hard to sell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd recomened considering other systems, such as counters or even pen and paper. With counters you could provide counters that have various numerical values (in Magic I use little gems I got from China as +1/+1 counters, white = 1, green = 5 and red = 10) and with pen and paper you could provide wipe clean cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned that even if you can make these work the board will be very chunky, making for bigger boxes and further logistical issues. Here's another idea I just had: 3 disks of varying sizes, made of cardboard, with numbers printed on them, that can be pinned flat to the tile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sSZz7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pinwheel&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would take up less space and allow other things to be placed on the tile, as well as being vastly cheaper. The player would just turn the wheels to align with the arrow (perhaps better to have the arrow on the left hand side)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T11:06:17.267" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T11:06:17.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12455" CreationDate="2013-07-11T11:16:35.513" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hive_%28game%29#Openings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia on Openings&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bee - Spider - Spider (in a V formation with the bee at the point): This is an aggressive quick-strike opening that allows the player the fastest possible opportunity to move (on the third turn if necessary); the Spiders can thus quickly block the opponent's opening pieces. In addition, if the opponent answers with the same or a similar opening, it provides the best opportunity to force a draw if necessary as the Bees are adjacent. For this last reason, tournament rules forbid the placing of the Bee on the first move, as &lt;strong&gt;this opening leads to a preponderance of draws&lt;/strong&gt;. Bee-Spider-Ant is a common variation very similar in its mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20090413174743/http://www.hivemania.com/tips/index4.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bee - Spider - Spider&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20090413155542/http://www.hivemania.com/tips/index3.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bee - Spider - Ant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2020-11-29T22:32:56.527" LastActivityDate="2020-11-29T22:32:56.527" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2013-07-11T13:12:26.523" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Full Disclosure: I've purchased a lot of the Duel Decks: Knights vs. Dragons, Venser vs. Koth, Ajani vs. Nicol Bolas, Izzet vs. Golgari and Sorin vs. Tibalt.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was trying to teach a new player, I actually wouldn't use any of the Duel Decks. They are classified as 'Expert' level products by Wizards of the Coast, so they may contain a lot more complexity than a new player is ready for. The complexity comes from the actual cards in the decks and the strategies that one deck needs to use to beat the other. (Side note:  Also, if you plan on playing in Standard or collecting for it, most of the cards in the Duel Decks won't be Standard legal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, one of the Duel Decks is typically stronger than the other, usually to provide contrast between a fast aggro deck and a slower control or ramp deck. For example, in Knights vs. Dragons, the Knights win a LOT, because the deck is full of really strong, low casting cost creatures. The dragons are bigger and tougher, but have a much higher casting costs. The Dragons deck does have SOME ramp, but most of the time it will take a early beating before it can get established, and not recover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also in Knights versus Dragons, there's a Knight with Protection from Red. The Dragons deck has a grand total of two ways to remove this guy. One colorless burn spell and one artifact creature. If you don't drawn into those, or if you use the burn spell on something else, you've got trouble.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same thing happens in Ajani vs. Nicol Bolas; Ajani has a lot of strong threats that are very cheap to cast. Bolas is more of a control deck, but it's not as well built of a control deck as you could hope for. The control is spread all over the place: a couple of counters here, a couple of discard spells there, so it's not very focused on one aspect of control, and therefore weaker. Again, most games go with Ajani taking the early lead and Bolas hoping to catch up and win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The imbalance in the Duel Decks could lead to very frustrating games, especially for a new player. That could be mitigated by having the players switch decks, but all in all, they are likely to see that one deck is stronger than the other and wonder why the weaker deck is there at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, Duel Decks are great for experienced collectors and veteran players, but not so hot for new players. What you should try is....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are trying to have them learn the game from square one, a Booster Battle Pack is the way to go. A Booster Battle Pack has 40 cards total. Those are split by color into 5 lands and 5 other cards. The colors that you get are randomized, so you might get one that includes Red, Black, White and Blue, but no Green. You select two of the colors and then have a deck of 20 cards that you use to play a short game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The small deck size helps a new player to get to &lt;strong&gt;playing&lt;/strong&gt; the game right away, without a bunch of rules explanations. Once you've played several games, you can swap around the colors and try different combinations. The Booster Battle Pack also contains two actual booster packs, that you can crack open and add to your decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Booster Battle Packs to teach my fiancee how to play and she's really enjoyed it. For Magic Veterans, it seems like a useless product because of the simplicity, but you'd be surprised at how much fun the (mini) games can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your player understands the fundamentals of the game, have them play someone else's decks until they get a good idea of which deck archetype they like. (Aggro, Control, Combo, etc.) That way, the new player doesn't have to invest any money, but still gets to try out a range of different decks. Or, you could have the other players sit down and donate cards from their collections to build a deck of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T14:08:33.790" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T14:08:33.790" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2013-07-11T16:08:52.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how your board is arranged, you could try using stiff rectangular strips of numbers instead of circles, which might be easier to make. You'd need a big enough 'window' that players with large fingers can easily slide the strip up and down (or you could just make people use a pencil eraser to push the strip -- style the pencil and now you have a cheap, nifty component!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're OK with just a two-digit number, a pair of disks or strips could work -- the left one represents the 10's place, and the right one the 1's place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still prototyping game mechanics, the dice-based suggestions are great, but there's definitely an aesthetic difference between dice sitting on a board and numbers embedded in it, especially if you have other objects on the board. Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="475" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T16:08:52.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12450" CreationDate="2013-07-11T17:47:43.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just write the numbers on the board. Wits and Wagers gives each player a small plasticized card and a white board marker, you could have similar built in to the board. If there are different types of numbers, you could use different colors as well as different sections of the whiteboard to keep things clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably a more expensive option, but it would be quite space-efficient. A 2&quot;x1&quot; rectangle should provide plenty of space for three 2-digit numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-07-11T17:53:49.737" LastActivityDate="2013-07-11T17:53:49.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-12T06:55:12.660" Score="5" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monty Python Fluxx, the Animator reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Counts as the Finger of God if the real Finger of God is not on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that the Animator has just the nominal value of the Finger of God or does it have its ability too?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have the Animator and the Finger of God is not on the table. Someone plays a goal which requires the Finger of God. Am I 50% winning?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have the Animator and the Finger of God is not on the table. Someone plays a goal which requires the Animator. Am I 50% winning or do I have to wait for someone to play the Finger of God so that my Animator is just the Animator again?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5527" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T11:03:35.080" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T11:03:35.080" Title="What does it mean when the Animator &quot;counts as&quot; the Finger of God?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-12T07:02:06.153" Score="7" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monty Python Fluxx, the Finger of God reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have this on the table you may smite (i.e. discard) any Creeper. After smiting, you must put this card back into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use it during someone else's turn? The card doesn't specify. The card &quot;Excalibur&quot;, for example, clearly stresses &quot;during your turn&quot; for a similar action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5527" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T08:39:00.090" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T04:56:08.893" Title="Can I use the Finger of God on other players' turns?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12462" CreationDate="2013-07-12T08:32:06.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can count as the Finger of God &lt;strong&gt;for the purposes of Goals AND for having the ability&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I actually thought the answer was no, but in hunting for a source, I was corrected! So, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the card does have the Finger of God's ability as well. (The official FAQ seems to be down, but it was mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/2869545#2869545&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on BGG.) This seems contrary to the game's aim of always having all the rules in effect visible on the cards on the table, but never mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the Animator counts as one of the required cards for any Goal which requires the Finger of God, so long as it isn't on the table somewhere else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Animator is always acceptable for any Goal that requires the Animator&lt;/strong&gt;. It doesn't stop being the Animator even if it can also &quot;count as&quot; the Finger of God.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth mentioning, however, that the Animator &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; be both the Animator and the Finger of God for the purposes of the Goal, &quot;The Meaning of Life&quot; (mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/2885204#2885204&quot;&gt;further down&lt;/a&gt; in that same forum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T10:47:24.993" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T10:47:24.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-12T14:53:36.963" Score="4" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Feast for Crows expansion a new house (House Arryn) was introduced along with a new set of rules for a 4 player game that changed the way you scored victory points. Is it possible to use House Arryn (i.e. the cards and unit setup) with the normal Game of Thrones rules, or perhaps with the Dance of the Dragons expansion cards and setup? This could lead to some new ways to play 5/6 player games. Has anyone tried it or thought about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-19T01:46:42.037" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T02:20:31.763" Title="Can House Arryn be used under the rules of the base game?" Tags="|variants|expansions|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12468" CreationDate="2013-07-12T15:48:33.900" Score="7" ViewCount="2000" Body="&lt;p&gt;On responding with 13 pts and 4-card major support why it is important to make a delayed raise (e.g. change suit and only then jump to 4-lvl) and not jump directly to 4-lvl- what added value does it supply to the partnership? What would go wrong if I'd just jump to 4-lvl - would our partnership be deprived in some way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T05:06:39.230" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T05:06:39.230" Title="Why it is important to make a delayed raise and not jump directly to 4-lvl? (System: simple SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9408" CreationDate="2013-07-12T17:22:42.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to making this decision is if you are going to run a cash game, tournament, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a cash game the buy in and blinds will determine what the values are.  If the buy in is $10, then there is no reason to have a $100 chip.  The small blind/ante should determine the smallest value of the chip.  In my own home game, standard buy in is $25 and the blinds are .25/.50.  We have one color for .25, one color for $1, one color for $5, and another for $25.  In your case I would use white as the $1 chip for this scenario as it is the most common color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are running a tournament then the values you stated would work depending upon the blinds.  My buddy has a poker clock that does the math for you on how long you want it to last, how many people you have and what chips each person gets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times my group will run a tourney, then go to a cash game.  As players get knocked out they join the cash game.  For this scenario it is imperative to have two distinct sets.  My cash game set uses blue, white, red and gray.  My tourney set uses orange, black, green, and pink.  By having two different sets, it helps keep the books better organized.  No one mistakenly bringing over a tourney chip to use in the cash game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer chips without value because you can define your own game and change as needed.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5497" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T17:22:42.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12466" CreationDate="2013-07-12T17:26:30.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common bridge principle for SAYC is to bid up strong hands slowly, but jump to a high bid quickly with weak hands that have long suits or other preemptive features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation you describe with responder having 13 points, you'll want bidding space to communicate whether or not you should be in game or slam, because opener has promised 13-21 points (and therefore the combined hands have 26-34 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If slam is possible, most tables will bid it up slowly and find the right slam contract, while your hasty 4 bid lands you a mere game contract (which will give you the bottom score in duplicate bridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, in SAYC, the jump to 4 of the opener's major response is reserved for a weak bid that typically indicates a small number of points but good shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with 6 low trump, a void, and a single Ace for high card points, that would be a perfect hand to jump to the 4 level because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a great chance of making the contract&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may prevent your opponents from exploring game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You would have no interest in exploring slam with such a hand, even&#xA;if partner has 20-21 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-07-12T19:12:34.493" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T19:12:34.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12454" CreationDate="2013-07-12T17:38:46.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Mississippi Queen&lt;/em&gt; is a board game that does almost exactly what you're asking for: dials, oriented vertically, that can be rotated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/107000/the-mississippi-queen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This image&lt;/a&gt; shows the dials in action: hexagonal disks that show a number from 0 to 5 along the edge. The dials can be taken out of the steamboats, and can also be rotated in place; if you're not specifically trying to rotate them, they hold their position just fine. There are two plastic pieces for each dial: the dial, and the place for it to sit. (The dials are just sitting loosely in a cup; there's no axle holding them in place.) In Mississippi Queen, of course, there are two dials per steamboat, but that's a minor detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is a more expensive implementation than all of the other answers, and will drive up the cost of producing the game, but it's closest to your original image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-07-12T17:38:46.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12466" CreationDate="2013-07-12T19:44:38.963" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you jump from say, one spade to thtree spades (four spades in hand) or four spades (five spades in hand), you are saying that you have spades, and nothing else, with most of your 6-9 points concentrated in the trump suit. You might just make your contract, but even if you go down, the idea is that you will have kept your opponents out of a two-or three-level contract that would have scored higher than the penalty you suffered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By using a delayed raiese, you show values in a &quot;second&quot; suit that offers an alternative to the bid suit, that could offer the possibility of a game in the second suit, or no trump. Let's say the bidding is one spade, two hearts, with your bid showing four hearts and three spades. If partner has four hearts, he might bid four hearts with a 4-4 fit and use the 5-3 spades as a side suit. If his distribution is 5-2-3-3, he might bid no trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your delayed raise would show 10+ points. Opposite an opening hand, you probably have game if you can find a suitable fit; the bid of a &quot;new&quot; suit makes it easier to find the best fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T21:22:20.580" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T21:22:20.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12466" CreationDate="2013-07-13T02:03:58.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key for an immediate jump to 4 is to be sure that slam is (nearly) impossible opposite partner's strong hand, while providing a good play for game opposite partner's expected minimum opening. Hands such as these qualify over 1 Spade by partner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Kxxx          xxxxx&#xA;Qxx     or    Qxxx&#xA;QTxxx         Kxx&#xA;x             x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these offer a decent slam opposite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AQJxx         AQJxx&#xA;AKJx    or    AKJx&#xA;Ax            Axx&#xA;xx            x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;despite the massive fit because, among other reason, &lt;strong&gt;they don't have an ace, a void, or two kings&lt;/strong&gt;. However they still offer a play for game opposite minimum hands such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AJTxx        AJTxx&#xA;Kxx     or   x&#xA;KJx          Qxx&#xA;xx           Axxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-07-13T02:03:58.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12475" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-14T20:32:42.017" Score="3" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could I target an opponent's creature, then use all creatures from both sides to block that creature, so that Bam! I get rid of something nasty? I think this because the wording on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368989&amp;amp;part=Dangerous&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dangerous&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;ALL creatures...&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5533" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-14T21:07:40.497" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T21:07:40.497" Title="Could Armed/Dangerous target an opponent's creature, to force a block with all creatures in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12475" CreationDate="2013-07-14T20:43:12.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could all creatures in both sides block one of my opponent creatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368989&amp;amp;part=Dangerous&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dangerous&lt;/a&gt;'s effect doesn't allow a creature to block creatures it couldn't otherwise block, and one can't block one's own creatures. It merely affect the choice of whether a creature blocks or not, and the choice of what it blocks when it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could &amp;quot;Armed &amp;amp; Dangerous&amp;quot; could be targeted at a creature my opponent controls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but it wouldn't be useful to do so unless it's something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusionary%20Servant&quot;&gt;Illusionary Servant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect would be useless when your target an opponent's creature (except in very obscure situations). For starters, since Dangerous is a sorcery, the opponent wouldn't be able to attack with the creature before the effect ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-07-14T21:03:24.047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-14T21:03:24.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12477" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-15T13:47:53.703" Score="19" ViewCount="17395" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mathwithbaddrawings.com/2013/06/16/ultimate-tic-tac-toe/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ultimate Tic Tac Toe&lt;/a&gt; is an interesting variant of Tic Tac Toe where in each of the 9 fields, a “regular” game of Tic Tac Toe is played; see the link for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has this game been solved already? Would it be possible to solve it using a brute force mini-max strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2019-11-21T13:21:46.550" LastActivityDate="2019-11-21T13:21:46.550" Title="Is Ultimate Tic Tac Toe solved?" Tags="|combinatorial-game-theory|tic-tac-toe|ultimate-tic-tac-toe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12480" CreationDate="2013-07-15T18:13:43.830" Score="2" ViewCount="3799" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, at the Prerelease this past weekend I pulled a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismiss%20Into%20Dream&quot;&gt;Dismiss Into Dream&lt;/a&gt; from the packs I won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I LOVE the flavor of this card and I think I could abuse it. I wanted to check on rulings though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dismiss Into Dream + &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Inferno&quot;&gt;Living Inferno&lt;/a&gt;: Would I be able to declare the targets and then they would all have to be sacrificed before they dealt damage to Living Inferno? And furthermore, could I choose any number and just have them all take 0 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Dismiss Into Dream + &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cauldron%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cauldron of Souls&lt;/a&gt;: Same sort of question: Could I target them then they have to be sacrificed before the creatures get Persist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:01:41.240" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:01:41.240" Title="Can I combo Dismiss Into Dream with Living Inferno or Cauldron of Souls?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7566" CreationDate="2013-07-15T18:56:26.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dacxive Animators happens at the end of combat but Gen Synthesis happens at the end of each round of invasion combat. Thus, it's possible that Special Ops training would work with Gen Synthesis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5537" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T18:56:26.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12478" CreationDate="2013-07-15T18:57:47.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is powerful, but for 7 that is to be expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Targeting a creature affected by Dismiss Into Dream will have them sacrificed before the spell/ability targeting them resolves. This is because the effect created by Dismiss Into Dream will go on the stack after the spell targeting the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No on your combo with living inferno, a ruling on gatherer prevents you from assigning 0 damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=96874&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=96874&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You divide the damage among the target creatures as you activate Living Inferno's ability. Each target must be assigned at least 1 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, on your combo with Cauldron of souls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-07-15T18:57:47.760" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12484" CreationDate="2013-07-15T20:08:35.650" Score="12" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Swindler in a 3-player game.  Does each player reveal, trash, and gain in turn order, or all reveal, then trash and gain in turn order? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking that it would matter in the following situation: the player to my left reveals and trashes a Province, so I give him another Province.  This triggers the Fool's Gold in the hand of the next player in turn order.  At this point, would he have already revealed the top card for Swindler, or, since he comes after the player who revealed the Province, is he able to use his Fool's Gold to put a gold on top in time for Swindler to hit it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T06:49:42.940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T06:49:42.940" Title="How are Swindler's effects resolved in a multiplayer game?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12482" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12483" CreationDate="2013-07-15T20:23:47.217" Score="5" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to target a ton of creatures with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=96874&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Living Inferno&lt;/a&gt;'s ability and then all those creatures were to die (or be sacrificed, per &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370796&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dismiss Into Dream&lt;/a&gt;) in response to Living Inferno's ability going on the stack, what would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creatures die, then LI's ability checks for the creatures, sees that they aren't there, and then fizzles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When LI's ability goes on the stack it records the creatures power, thus ensuring that LI gets dealt damage when it's ability resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-16T01:58:11.923" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T16:11:11.637" Title="If creatures targeted by Living Inferno's ability all die, what happens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12482" CreationDate="2013-07-15T20:30:29.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ability fizzles &lt;strong&gt;if and only if&lt;/strong&gt;,  &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; of it's targets are gone, so long at least one of it's targets is still there, It will still resolve and deal damage to that target, but if they're all gone, the ability is countered(fizzles)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Creatures on the battle field can't perform actions(such as dealing damage) if they are illegal targets of the ability, and they're illegal targets of the ability if they've changed zones(such as from the battlefield to the graveyard).&#xA;If they died while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=living%20Inferno&quot;&gt;living Inferno&lt;/a&gt;'s ability was on the stack, than those creates would not deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both of these points are covered by section 608.2b of the comp rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are&#xA;still legal. &lt;strong&gt;A target that’s no longer in the zone it&#xA;was in when it was targeted is illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; Other changes to the game&#xA;state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its&#xA;characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the&#xA;text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it&#xA;was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The&#xA;spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance&#xA;of the word “target,” are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability is not&#xA;countered, it will resolve normally. &lt;strong&gt;However, if any of its targets&#xA;are illegal, the part of the spell or ability’s effect for which it is&#xA;an illegal target can’t perform any actions on that target, make&#xA;another object or player perform any actions on that target, &lt;em&gt;or make&#xA;that target perform any actions.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; The effect may still determine&#xA;information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the&#xA;effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Sorin’s Thirst is a black instant that reads, “Sorin’s Thirst&#xA;deals 2 damage to target creature and you gain 2 life.” If the&#xA;creature isn’t a legal target during the resolution of Sorin’s Thirst&#xA;(say, if the creature has gained protection from black or left the&#xA;battlefield), then Sorin’s Thirst is countered. Its controller doesn’t&#xA;gain any life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Plague Spores reads, “Destroy target nonblack&#xA;creature and target land. They can’t be regenerated.” Suppose the same&#xA;animated land is chosen both as the nonblack creature and as the land,&#xA;and the color of the creature land is changed to black before Plague&#xA;Spores resolves. Plagues Spores isn’t countered because the black&#xA;creature land is still a legal target for the “target land” part of&#xA;the spell. The “destroy target nonblack creature” part of the spell&#xA;won’t affect that permanent, but the “destroy target land” part of the&#xA;spell will still destroy it. It can’t be regenerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also supported by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer ruling for pit fight&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/24/2013     If either target of Pit Fight is an illegal target when the&#xA;ability tries to resolve, neither creature will deal or be dealt&#xA;damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;take note that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=pit%20fight&quot;&gt;pit fight&lt;/a&gt; does not fizzle in this case, because it still will have 1 target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=pit%20fight&quot;&gt;pit fight&lt;/a&gt; isn't good enough for you because it uses the &lt;code&gt;fight&lt;/code&gt; mechanic, than the ruling for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368991&amp;amp;part=Blood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flesh/Blood&lt;/a&gt; also applies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4/15/2013     As Blood is resolving, if only one of the targets is legal,&#xA;Blood will still resolve but will have no effect: If the first target&#xA;is illegal, it can’t deal damage to anything. If the second target&#xA;creature or player is illegal, it can’t be dealt damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T16:11:11.637" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T16:11:11.637" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2013-07-15T21:40:32.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  If order matters, then resolve in turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Intrigue Rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Swindler - A player with no cards left in his Deck shuffles first; a&#xA;  player who still has no cards does not trash a card or gain a card. &lt;strong&gt;If&#xA;  the order matters (such as when piles are running low), resolve&#xA;  Swindler in turn order starting with the player to your left.&lt;/strong&gt; Gained&#xA;  cards go to discard piles. If a player trashes a 0-cost card such as&#xA;  Copper, you may choose to give him Curse (if there are any left). You&#xA;  can give a player another copy of the same card he trashed. The gained&#xA;  cards have to be ones from the Supply, and you have to pick a card&#xA;  that's left if you can (you cannot pick an empty pile). If there are&#xA;  no cards in the Supply with the same cost as a given player's trashed&#xA;  card, no card is gained by that player. A player who Moats this does&#xA;  not reveal a card from his deck, and so neither trashes a card nor&#xA;  gains a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt or unable to determine &lt;code&gt;if&lt;/code&gt; turn order matters, I'd suggest using turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T15:12:10.040" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T15:12:10.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-16T00:10:00.057" Score="18" ViewCount="2604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played The Resistance for the first time a couple weeks ago and am interested in writing a simulation program to test strategies. I know that &lt;a href=&quot;http://arxiv.org/abs/math/0609534&quot;&gt;mathematical analysis has been done&lt;/a&gt; on Mafia proper, but does anyone know of work that has been done to analyze The Resistance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5532" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T00:23:55.823" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T07:28:52.013" Title="Has any mathematical analysis of The Resistance been done?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5118" CreationDate="2013-07-16T00:28:22.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marneus Calgar equipped with either Flamers or Storm Bolters is the only way to replace your librarian in style. However, DO NOT LEAVE HIM BY HIMSELF! Keep him with the terminators and you will be sweet (I prefer Honour Guard with Calgar but terminators function the same way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5538" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T00:28:22.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-16T03:14:41.277" Score="3" ViewCount="1648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like building casual decks based around obscure rares. This one has been sitting in my collection forever, and I've never used it. I'm completely stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thran%20Lens&quot;&gt;Thran Lens&lt;/a&gt; is a two mana artifact that reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All permanents are colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than making Black creatures vulnerable to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Banishing&quot;&gt;Dark Banishing&lt;/a&gt; and the like, what is this card good for? My ideal deck would use the Lens as part of a winning, or at least very annoying combo. I'm not worried about how feasible the combo is to execute - &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rube_Goldberg_machine&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rube Goldberg machines&lt;/a&gt; based on many cards are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one important extra caveat. My collection is strictly old-school. I can only use cards from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scourge_%28Magic:_The_Gathering%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scourge&lt;/a&gt; or earlier, since those are the only cards I possess (or am willing to buy). On the plus side, I do have most of them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T06:16:11.553" Title="What does a combo deck based around Thran Lens look like?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12487" CreationDate="2013-07-16T06:16:11.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least two good choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Invoke%20Prejudice&quot;&gt;Invoke Prejudice&lt;/a&gt; - Affects all opponents in multiplayer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intimidate&lt;/strong&gt; (or Fear) - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadowmage%20Infiltrator&quot;&gt;Shadowmage Infiltrator&lt;/a&gt; is probably the best Fear creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T06:16:11.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12477" CreationDate="2013-07-16T11:28:46.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My co-worker found what I believe is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.joachim-breitner.de/blog/archives/604-Ultimate-Tic-Tac-Toe-is-always-won-by-X.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a winning strategy for the first player&lt;/a&gt;, but now I find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.khanacademy.org/cs/in-tic-tac-toe-ception-perfect/1681243068&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;earlier evidence by others&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for the original version of the game, where you can send your opponent to an already won field and he has to place his mark there. It seems that the question is still open for the updated version where he can then choose freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastEditorUserId="5166" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T12:16:24.560" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T12:16:24.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2013-07-16T13:37:10.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each player reveals, trashes, and gains in turn order.&lt;/strong&gt; The relevant text of Swindler is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each other player trashes the top card of his deck and gains a card with the same cost that you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, you do each instruction in order. The convention is that each instruction is one sentence. For Swindler, the instruction is &quot;trash and gain.&quot; Having multiple parts of a single instruction is common in Dominion. For instance, the Bureaucrat uses the same construction. In resolving Bureaucrat, the first player must reveal a Victory card and put it on top of their deck, then the second player does both of those things, then the third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Swindler wanted everyone to trash, and then everyone to gain, it would have to be written as two separate sentences, and it would be a really messy wording to make sure that the cost of the gained card matches the cost of the card trashed from that player's deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T13:37:10.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11949" CreationDate="2013-07-16T17:56:16.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, if you want to play further, that's completely up to you. You can play to any level, just make sure to respect the &quot;Winning Level&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're playing to level 25 or 30, you can keep going, however, you cannot go from 24 to 25 or 29 to 30 by purchasing a level, or using a &lt;em&gt;go up a level&lt;/em&gt;-type card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not apply to cards that specifically allow you to gain the winning level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: The &lt;em&gt;Divine Intervention&lt;/em&gt; card makes all clerics to go up a level, even to the winning level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5540" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T04:27:24.157" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T04:27:24.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11948" CreationDate="2013-07-16T18:03:03.077" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another possibility is to just create house rules that will go along these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the card from the deck before play, and explain new players why.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extend the amount of levels needed to win ie. 15-20 (this will only delay, but may help prevent surprise wins.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd keep it! Although it sucks to lose to it, just deal with it and maybe luck will sway in your favor next game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've lost to it before, but because of Munchkin's randomness, I've come back from level 5 to win while 4 other players at level 9 were fighting each other and preventing each other from killing the winning monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5540" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T18:03:03.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2995" CreationDate="2013-07-16T18:30:23.663" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the games seem similar, in that they share the same &lt;strong&gt;concept&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;goal&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt; mechanics&lt;/strong&gt;, they are two &lt;strong&gt;DIFFERENT&lt;/strong&gt; games, that function in &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;COMPLETELY DIFFERENT&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tl,dr; No, you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5540" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T18:30:23.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12481" CreationDate="2013-07-16T20:03:19.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Fool's Gold reveal is optional, but yes, the order is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play Swindler.  Resolve any cards that trigger on playing an attack. (Go in order around the table, each player revealing and resolving eligible cards until they are done) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each player, reveal and trash that card.  Resolve anything that triggers from that trashing (gaining a gold from Tunnel, returning Fortress to hand, discarding Market Square, etc), and resolve anything that triggers from that (like revealing a Watchtower to put that Tunnel Gold on top)  Then choose the card to gain.  Then anything that triggers off of that gain is resolved, (like gaining another card from Border Village).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, go onto the next player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not quite sure who gets to use their Fool's Gold first, if there are not enough Golds.  I think you would start with the player who played the Swindler, and then go around, starting with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in your question; if one has not yet been swindled, trashing the Fool's Gold will result in the gained Gold being swindled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-07-16T20:03:19.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12529" CreationDate="2013-07-17T02:48:17.517" Score="2" ViewCount="6969" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(-1)&#xA;Everyone I've spoke to says that you cannot have negative ATK, why?  It's not in the rule book so it seems that if I could reduce the ATK of an opponent to become negative then in the event I attack them, my ATK would be applied then they would attack themselves (the value equal to the absolute value of their negative ATK value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(∞)&#xA;I've heard from a few sources that after the ATK points reach a certain value (over 9999 maybe? by any means possible) that the value becomes infinite, is this true?  I realize there are some cards which are not legal for play which have infinite ATK values, but is there any rule that states a sufficiently high finite ATK &quot;becomes&quot; infinite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="5443" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T03:09:01.457" LastActivityDate="2023-08-03T23:50:19.333" Title="Negative and Infinite ATK in Yugioh" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12498" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-17T03:01:09.997" Score="1" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;My first question is: Is it true that if your opponents obtains more than 5 back field cards (traps, etc) that they automatically lose?  I realize you cannot lay more than 5 cards in that area, but suppose your opponent already has 5 trap cards, then you use a trap card (for example Creature Swap) to swap one of your monsters with theirs.... except that the monster you give them has 2 traps attached to it already.  Now they have a total of 6 trap cards on their side.  What happens?  I've heard that they instantly loose and there is nothing they can do.  True?  Additionally, any other cool ideas on how to win using such &quot;glitches&quot; in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="5443" LastEditDate="2013-07-17T03:13:37.447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T12:37:31.720" Title="Victory in Yugioh by Unusual Means" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-17T03:34:55.340" Score="2" ViewCount="3365" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have cards attached to a creature, and then use &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Creature_Swap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creature Swap&lt;/a&gt;. Do those attached cards follow the monster to the other side of the field? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-18T02:10:49.857" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T16:48:32.600" Title="Do Attached Cards follow the Swapped Monster when Creature Swap is used?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12499" CreationDate="2013-07-17T04:29:10.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know my comment started this question, and if you want someone else to answer I understand. But here is why I do not think they go with the creature.&#xA;The official rules about equip cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These cards give an extra effect to &#xA;  1 face-up monster of your choice &#xA;  (&lt;strong&gt;either your own or your opponent’s, &#xA;  depending on the card&lt;/strong&gt;). They remain &#xA;  on the field after they are activated. &#xA;  The Equip Spell Card affects only &#xA;  1 monster (called the equipped &#xA;  monster), but &lt;strong&gt;still occupies one of &#xA;  your Spell &amp;amp; Trap Card Zones&lt;/strong&gt;. If &#xA;  possible, place it in the zone directly &#xA;  behind the equipped monster to &#xA;  help you remember. If the equipped &#xA;  monster is destroyed, flipped facedown, or removed from the field, its &#xA;  Equip Cards are destroyed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it points out that Equip cards you control can in fact be on monsters your opponent controls. &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Creature_Swap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Creature Swap&lt;/a&gt; only says it gives your opponent control of the creature. Not anything else. In my mind the objects attached to the creature would still be under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T04:29:10.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12465" CreationDate="2013-07-17T16:39:23.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pypok made objective cards to play 6 player feast of crows style game of thrones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://enter-there.com/expansions/dance-with-dragons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://enter-there.com/expansions/dance-with-dragons/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T16:39:23.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11582" CreationDate="2013-07-17T17:55:28.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer:&#xA;If you both want to play with same armies, I don't see what the issue is; &lt;strong&gt;AS LONG&lt;/strong&gt; as you know which models belong to who.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be a player that respects lore, then 2 players might not be able to play the same race v each other (haven't played for a while, but -&gt; Imperials would not fight each other, whereas Orks totally would.) &lt;em&gt;So Necrons could fight each other and it would make sense.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5540" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T17:55:28.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12503" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12506" CreationDate="2013-07-17T19:55:54.463" Score="13" ViewCount="1660" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's set up a simple example to illustrate what I'm getting at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player has a city bordering an ore tile, and they are the only player with a settlement bordering an ore tile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is only 1 ore resource card left in the &quot;bank&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone rolls for resource production and it causes the ore tile to produce 2 ore for the city owned by the player in question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they get the 1 remaining ore resource card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would assume no. The rules do state that if there are not enough resources of a given type to distribute, nobody gets anything. But this situation is a little different just because there is only one player receiving resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll note that I've never actually had this happen, but am working on a computer based simulation and am trying to be precise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5547" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T10:27:46.213" Title="Too few resource cards to distribute, but only one player receiving that resource type. Do they get the cards?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2013-07-17T20:42:27.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just from a Rules-As-Written reading, it literally says &quot;nobody&quot; which should mean &lt;em&gt;nobody&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a spirit-of-the-rules view, I believe that rule is intended not to give unfair advantage to certain players at the cost of other players, but in this case there's no cost to other players, so no unfair advantage would be gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, as you pointed out, it is an extremely narrow edge case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2013-07-17T20:42:27.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12498" CreationDate="2013-07-18T01:10:38.367" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you do not win the game if your opponent somehow controls 6 Trap cards.&lt;/strong&gt; There are only three ways to win a game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/uk/rulebook/3R03803_-_SD21_YGO_RuleBook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yu-gi-oh (page 26 or 30 in pdf)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winning a Duel&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player starts a Duel with 8000 Life Points. You win a Duel if: you reduce your opponent's Life Points to 0; if your opponent is unable to draw a card; or if a card's special effect says you win. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no &amp;quot;glitches&amp;quot;, or other ways of winning a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T01:10:38.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2013-07-18T05:29:16.603" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the lone player gets the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4621-resource-cards-case-not-enough-resource-cards-certain-type-are-available-does-player-get&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official FAQ at catan.com&lt;/a&gt; answers this directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Resource Cards&lt;/strong&gt; - In case not enough Resource Cards of a certain type are available, does a player get nothing even if he is the only one to receive this resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. In this case, he receives all available Resource Cards of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T05:29:16.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12503" CreationDate="2013-07-18T10:27:46.213" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules that I have state that you first give cards to whoever is getting the most of that resource. So if you have only one player getting cards, they get all the cards. If one player should get 4 cards, and one 2 cards and there are 3 cards left, the first player gets all 3 and second gets nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is &gt;10 year old edition of the game though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T10:27:46.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12510" CreationDate="2013-07-18T10:35:34.757" Score="24" ViewCount="11734" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen that there is a new edition of Pandemic for 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the differences between Pandemic and the &quot;New Challenge&quot; version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I convert my original edition to use any of the new rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the original Pandemic compatible with the 2013 expansion packs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1488" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:55:16.510" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:55:16.510" Title="What are the differences between Pandemic and Pandemic 2013?" Tags="|pandemic|expansions|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3568" CreationDate="2013-07-18T10:54:08.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ore (and to a less extent Corn) are both incredibly important resources. Since there are only 3 Ore hexes, its definitely worth trying to corner the market in Ore if you can. It is hard to build cities if you have to trade 3:1 for ore. Since people often want Ore in bulk, you can often get very good mutually beneficial deals such as 3 ore for wood+bricks+2corn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't try to do the same for wood or bricks since you won't really be able to leverage it into much of an advantage. And definitely not with sheep!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-07-18T10:54:08.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12508" CreationDate="2013-07-18T12:51:59.777" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The differences between the original version of Pandemic and the 2013 version are essentially cosmetic. The only significant change is to the Role cards. The 2013 games features 2 new roles, &lt;strong&gt;Contingency Planner&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Quarantine Specialist&lt;/strong&gt;, that aren't in the original version. It also has the revised &lt;strong&gt;Operations Expert&lt;/strong&gt; from the original &lt;em&gt;On The Brink&lt;/em&gt; expansion. There are pictures of these cards &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thezombiegame.com/forums/Thread-Pandemic-Revised&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. There have been some changes to the rulebook to clarify some things in the original rulebook that caused confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Pandemic is not compatible with the 2013 expansion packs (the card backs have different designs), however you can buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/nouvelles-details.php?id=309&quot;&gt;replacement cards&lt;/a&gt; to make the original Pandemic compatible with the new expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T09:47:31.650" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T09:47:31.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-18T17:32:21.060" Score="4" ViewCount="4335" Body="&lt;p&gt;After playing much Warhammer 40K and building some Space Marine and Orks, I've been looking into starting a Warhammer Fantasy army, more specifically Skaven, because of the cool-looking models and the challenge towards my painting skills to make them look beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I've looked into types of armies and lore, from a strictly-gameplay point of view, I know nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What types of Skaven armies work or not, and which races are they good or weak against?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5540" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:03:28.947" Title="Starting a Skaven army: Pros and Cons?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|modelling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12514" CreationDate="2013-07-19T05:48:29.137" Score="3" ViewCount="3042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keep the general implications in mind but, in particular, consider &quot;Banisher of the Radiance&quot;.  Its effect reads, &quot;Any card sent to the Graveyard is removed from play instead.&quot;   So does this monster go to the Graveyard or is it Removed from Play instead?  As another example, suppose a monsters' effects read &quot;If a monster on your side of the field is destroyed, you may pick a monster on the field and add DEF to it equal to the ATK of your destroyed monster.&quot;  If this monster was destroyed, could you add its (non-zero) ATK to another monster's DEF?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T14:18:14.197" Title="Self-Referencing Effects when a Monster is Destroyed" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12515" CreationDate="2013-07-19T08:58:57.113" Score="7" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see that &quot;Star Trek&quot; catan has some extra role cards, which add a new element to the game (and are the only things that do).  I'd like to try these, but I don't really like the &quot;Star Trek&quot; theme, and it's expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone made some printable versions of these cards that fit the original Catan theme?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T11:26:33.807" Title="Has anyone made regular-themed version of the Star Trek Catan role cards?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12512" CreationDate="2013-07-19T10:59:38.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Banisher of the Radiance wouldn't banish itself, it would go to the Graveyard.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Banisher_of_the_Radiance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Banisher of the Radiance&lt;/a&gt; has a Continuous Effects, which is only active while it remains on the field face-up. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/uk/rulebook/V7_English_Rlbk_lores.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Rule book page 14)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuous Effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is active while the Effect Monster Card is face-up on the field. The effect starts when the face-up monster appears on the field, and ends once that monster is gone or is no longer face-up; there is no trigger for its activation. These monsters are most useful if you have a strategy to protect them while they are on the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is supported by &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings:Banisher_of_the_Radiance&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;previous rulings&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &amp;quot;Banisher of the Radiance&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Sangan&amp;quot; are destroyed simultaneously by an effect like &amp;quot;Lightning Vortex&amp;quot;, then both are sent to the Graveyard and &amp;quot;Sangan's&amp;quot; effect activates normally.[5]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Destroy&lt;/strong&gt; means to send a card from the field to the Graveyard. Banisher of the Radiance prevents that from happening, so the hypothetical Card that you described would have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Destroy&lt;/strong&gt; - A card is destroyed when it is sent to the Graveyard due to battle between monsters or by an effect that destroys a card. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: These TCG rulings were issued by Upper Deck Entertainment and have since been deemed unofficial by Konami.[6] They were previously considered official and can still be correct, as long as they follow the official gameplay rules, or unless Konami has issued a ruling that says otherwise.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T11:05:40.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12513" CreationDate="2013-07-19T11:26:33.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/star-trek-catan&quot;&gt;Star Trek theme&lt;/a&gt; included the German language mini-expansion &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/die-helfer-von-catan&quot;&gt;Die Helfer Von Catan&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;The Helpers of Catan&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An English translation is available as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/88118/helpers-of-catan-english-cards&quot;&gt;PDF on BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-07-19T11:26:33.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-20T11:51:53.087" Score="3" ViewCount="1717" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies Pacific, What constitutes an adjoined sea space for a scramble? Sea space in square contains the fighters or all sea spaces that touch that square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5554" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-20T14:05:02.070" LastActivityDate="2017-12-20T10:17:53.483" Title="When can I scramble?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12523" CreationDate="2013-07-21T04:17:54.207" Score="6" ViewCount="5652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was told today that it's possible to do an effective &quot;friendly mulligan&quot; (draw to 7 cards) by intentionally tying the game and starting a new one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've heard of people intentionally drawing matches a lot of times, but is it legal to intentionally draw a single game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T04:30:18.400" Title="Is it possible to intentionally draw a game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12497" CreationDate="2013-07-21T09:51:12.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;1)  &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, negative numbers are not possible on monsters.  It is true that this is not explicitly stated in any of the official rulebooks.  However, it is most common that such values in games refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Natural_number&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;non-negative integers&lt;/a&gt;, and therefore it can be assumed that it is the case unless otherwise stated.  It is the responsibility of the rulebook to explicitly state if negatives &lt;em&gt;were&lt;/em&gt; allowed, not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;.  There is noting even remotely true about the statement, to the point of which the very concept seems rather random.  It's possible that such a glitch might exist in one of the video games, and that your friend might have been referring to that.  Even so, that is an unintentional (and theoretical) computer glitch, and does not reflect on the real game, which is not limited by such issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2013-07-21T21:11:36.960" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T21:11:36.960" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14521" CreationDate="2013-07-21T13:39:43.157" Score="8" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Go, there is a potentially repetitive sequence of moves called a &quot;ko.&quot; So if your opponent takes a ko from you, you have to make a move elsewhere on the board, called a ko threat, before &quot;taking back&quot; the ko, in order to break up the repetition. But suppose someone &quot;repeats&quot; by taking back a ko, without making a ko threat. What are the penalties?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that in a tournament, the penalty will be a forfeit of the game. But I've never seen this rule enforced in informal play. The standard &quot;fix&quot; is that the offender is forced to take back his ko &quot;recapture,&quot; and make another move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding of the tournament rule correct? And is there an informal &quot;house rule&quot; that prevents the application of this rule in casual games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T06:43:28.170" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T06:43:28.170" Title="What happens in Go if you &quot;take back&quot; a ko before making a ko threat?" Tags="|house-rules|go|ko|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12520" CreationDate="2013-07-21T14:00:41.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen what you're describing in tournaments, too.  A player made a mistake and took the ko when it was illegal, and the other player just made him take the move back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T14:00:41.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12517" CreationDate="2013-07-21T15:52:25.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, and you don't even have to trick it.  See rule 104.4i:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4i In a tournament, all players in the game may agree to an intentional draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can shake hands and agree to a draw at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5305" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T15:52:25.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12517" CreationDate="2013-07-21T16:01:10.307" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the tournamet rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.4  Conceding or Intentionally Drawing Games or Matches&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a game or match is not completed, players may concede or mutually agree to a&#xA;  draw in that game or match. A  match is considered complete once the&#xA;  result slip is filled out or, if match slips are not being used, a&#xA;  player leaves  the table after game play is finished. Until that&#xA;  point, either player may concede to or draw with the other, though  if&#xA;  the conceding player won a game in the match, the match must be&#xA;  reported as 2-1. Intentional draws are always  reported as 0-0-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may not agree to a concession or draw in exchange for any&#xA;  reward or incentive. Doing so will be  considered Bribery (see section&#xA;  5.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player refuses to play, it is assumed that he or she has conceded the match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember that you can't use the sideboard if you decide to draw before starting to play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.3  Pregame Procedures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The following steps must be performed in a timely manner before each game begins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Players may exchange cards in their decks for cards in their sideboards. Players may only do this after  the first or subsequent&#xA;  game of the match and not for games that are restarted or games that&#xA;  are drawn  before any game actions are taken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Matches are played until time has run out or until a player has won a certain number of games. Therefore drawing a game will not use up one of the games in the match, because there is no limit to the number of games that can be played in a match:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.1  Match Structure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Magic match consists of a series of games that are played until one side has won a set number of games,  usually two.&#xA;  Drawn games do not count toward this goal. If the round ends before a&#xA;  player has won the required  number of games, the winner of the match&#xA;  is the player who has won the most games at that point. If both&#xA;  players  have equal game wins, the match is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T22:13:00.433" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T22:13:00.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12520" CreationDate="2013-07-21T17:41:15.067" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all official rules that I know this means instant forfeit of the game. Of course, in casual play, mistakes like this can be allowed to take back at the will of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournaments I would strongly advise against making such a mistake as well as trying to ask for a take back. If the other player does not seem to allow a take back by his own active will, just resign and promise yourself to not make the same mistake again. Mental strength is part of the game, too, after all (just like time management, i.e. losing on time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason players sometime forget to make a threat is often that after player A took the ko, player B takes some time to contemplate the threats, the board, counts the score, and finally simply recaptures the ko - the need to play a threat slipped out of their mind in the meantime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2013-07-21T18:23:02.603" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T18:23:02.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12527" CreationDate="2013-07-21T19:05:13.703" Score="12" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting a game of Battlestar Galactica: The Board Game, the three players selected Roslin, Tyrol, and Apollo. Per page 5 of the rules, none of us are the Admiral. Then we got a Crisis card that clearly expected someone to be the Admiral, as the Admiral makes a choice.  The rules have a full line of succession for Admiral on page 28, but no text makes it clear that this list applies for game setup when determining who the Admiral is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there supposed to always be an Admiral, and if so how are they selected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5559" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T19:23:46.447" Title="Is it required that someone is Admiral?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12530" CreationDate="2013-07-21T19:14:31.440" Score="11" ViewCount="113458" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the comprehensive rules, the answer to these questions seem clear, but I'm still having trouble reconciling them in my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here on some scenarios:&#xA;(1) My opponent attacks me with a 4/2 and I choose to block with a 1/5 and a 1/1. If he assigns damage to the 1/5 first, and then the 1/1, what happens? From my reading of the rules, no creatures would die because blockers only assign damage if all creatures &quot;in front&quot; of them are assigned lethal damage. Therefore the 1/1 does not assign damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) My opponent attacks with a 4/6, and I block with six 1/1s. What happens? My interpretation is that I would lose four 1/1s and the 4/6 would be assigned 5 damage. This implies that as long as an attacker has toughness at least 2 higher than its power, an army of 1/1s cannot kill it. Likewise an attacker with toughness three higher than its power cannot be killed by an army of 2/2s, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) If the 1/1 in the first scenario had first strike, it would deal damage regardless of the blockers order. This would result in the 4/2 being assigned 2 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all of these interpretations correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5558" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T10:56:33.023" Title="Combat damage assignment with multiple blockers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12525" CreationDate="2013-07-21T19:56:34.390" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's a great question. I never noticed that the setup rules only list the top three in the line of succession. We have always played as if the full line of succession were in play there. So in your example, the admiral would be Apollo. Not having an admiral (or president for that matter) would cause some significant game play issues. I have to assume the intention was to always use the full line of succession. So I would say, yes, someone always has to be admiral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the base game, the only way this can happen is in a three player game where someone chooses a support character, i.e. Tyrol. I think this was an oversight in the rules. Without Tyrol, it would be impossible for this to happen, because someone would have to choose one of the three military leader characters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow the rules-as-written, to the letter, it could be even stranger in a game including the Pegasus expansion. Cain is first in line of succession, but I don't believe anything in the rule book technically modifies the rule you mention on page 5 of the base rule book. So if Cain and Helo were both selected, a literal interpretation of the rules would give the admiral title to Helo. Clearly that isn't the intent. I think the obvious answer is to always refer to the line of success lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T19:23:46.447" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T19:23:46.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12526" CreationDate="2013-07-21T20:53:57.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're misunderstanding the rules. The attacking player decides the &quot;order&quot; in which blockers are damaged, which only limits how you can spread the damage: you can only assign damage to an additional blockers if all other blockers that you choose to be dealt damage are dealt lethal damage. Lethal damage is damage equal to or higher than a creature's toughness (accounting for other damage that might have been dealt earlier to the creature, and effects like deathtouch).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage assignment &quot;order&quot; &lt;em&gt;does not create a queueing of damage&lt;/em&gt;. It is just an expression to (in theory) clarify the above description I gave. Once damage has been assigned, it will be dealt &lt;em&gt;to all creatures simultaneously&lt;/em&gt; (unless there is a creature with first/double strike is involved, see below), so what happens in your scenarios is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Your opponent's 4/2 will die. If your opponent &quot;assigned damage&quot; to your 1/5, both your creatures will survive because he must assign lethal damage to that creature before he can damage another, so if he chooses to assign damage to it, he must deal all 4, which is not lethal damage. No damage is dealt to your 1/1, but both your creatures deal 1 damage to the 4/2, enough to kill it. If he chose to assign damage the other way around, the 4/2 still dies, but so does your 1/1, and your 1/5 is is dealt 3 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) The 4/6 will be dealt 6 damage (each 1/1 deals 1 damage) and die. I'm sorry, but I can't make sense of what you understood of the rules here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) When there is a creature with first/double strike involved, there is basically 2 Combat damage step, one for the &quot;strikers&quot;, and one for everyone else (include the double strikers). In your first scenario, this changes nothing. &lt;em&gt;If both&lt;/em&gt; the 1/5 and the 1/1 had first strike (or there was a 2/* with first strike amongst the blockers), the 4/2 would die before ever getting a chance to deal deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I managed to be clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2013-07-21T20:53:57.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12497" CreationDate="2013-07-21T21:32:04.247" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;) Negative numbers &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; allowed, because lack of evidence to say that something isn't allowed is not evidence that negative numbers are lacking (in the game).  The very fact that it was not mentioned in the rule books suggests that it &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; allowed.  The most natural explanation is that such a monster would directly attack its owner's life points if it were to attack another monster and it would be destroyed as well.  Further, we &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; allow negative numbers for the following reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose for a moment that we do allow them; now suppose that I reduce your ATK points to below zero (by whatever means).  Now, suppose on your next turn you summon a monster or use a spell, so that you add ATK points to every monster (or just one); would it be fair for you to add those points as if you were at zero to start with.... absolutely not!  You should first add enough points to raise the monster to zero ATK then apply the rest.  As an example, suppose I lower your 300 ATK monster by -500, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on your turn you add +1,000 ATK to that monster, you are now at 800 ATK and &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; 1000 ATK.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a corollary, monsters with 0 ATK can successfully attack negative ATK monsters and not be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) As far as infinite numbers, I completely agree that no finite number &quot;becomes&quot; infinite at any point; I was merely told that it &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; a rule; it clearly is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="5443" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T17:05:25.933" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T17:05:25.933" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12526" CreationDate="2013-07-21T22:16:25.380" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, nothing weird happens with blockers - they always assign damage equal to their power, no matter what order you've put them in. The order is just about dividing up your attacking creature's damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule you were probably looking at is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c  A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. ... However, it can't assign combat damage to a creature that's blocking it unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the thing you missed is that this is only talking about the blocked creature (the attacking creature) assigning its combat damage to the creatures that are blocking it - it's an explanation of how that damage can get divided up among multiple blockers. The friendly/oversimplified version is &quot;put them in order, then kill as many as you can starting with the first one&quot; - pretty intuitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the blockers? They always assign damage equal to their power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature assigns combat damage equal to its power. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1d A blocking creature assigns combat damage to the creatures it's blocking.  ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no weird confusing rules here. The blockers always get to hit the creature they're blocking. (With the usual sorts of exceptions, e.g. they get killed before they get a chance to.) So your examples are pretty easy to deal with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The 1/5 and the 1/1 both hit your 4/2, so it dies. If you put the 1/1 first, it'll take 1 damage (killing it) and the 1/5 will take 3; if you put the 1/5 first it'll take 4 damage and the 1/1 won't take any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The six 1/1s all deal damage to your 4/6, so it dies. The 4/6 presumably assigns 1 damage each to the first four 1/1s you put in order, killing them. (Though you're actually allowed to deal &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than lethal, e.g. 2 each to the first two, if you want to leave some of them alive for some reason.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) First strike doesn't change the result here; the 1/1 hits the 4/2 first, but then normal damage happens, and the 4/2 still gets to deal all 4 of its damage as you see fit. First strike would matter if instead you had a 2/1 with first strike; it'd kill the 4/2 before it had a chance to deal any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make sure you understand the comprehensive rules (though it's probably overkill) read through that section again being careful to distinguish between &quot;blocked creature&quot; (an attacking creature which is blocked) and &quot;blocking creature&quot; (a creature which is blocking an attacking creature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-07-22T00:01:30.040" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T00:01:30.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12520" CreationDate="2013-07-22T19:48:56.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important point to understand is that in an &lt;strong&gt;amateur&lt;/strong&gt; tournament, whenever both players agree on something, then it's ok. For example, if one player plays an illegal move (like taking back a ko immediately) and the other says &quot;take back your move and let's pretend nothing happened&quot;, then so it is: nothing happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problems only occur when the players disagree. According to the rule, playing an illegal move is an immediate loss. That means the other player can, if he wants, declare victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, weaker players will readily let their opponent take their move back. When it comes to stronger player, they tend to claim a win if the opponent makes such a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst that can happen is that someone else, not playing but just watching, interferes. As a tournament organizer I hate when people interfere in other people's games. That's usually when the fuss starts. The player agreed to let his opponent take back, but someone watching tells he should claim victory, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;strong&gt;professional&lt;/strong&gt; tournament the player making the mistake will resign as soon as he sees it (such mistakes are very rare in professional tournaments, but may happen sometimes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5094" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-01-20T15:22:14.060" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T15:22:14.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8849" CreationDate="2013-07-22T22:46:11.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Dame Jospheine is revealed, she is a Victory card,so that triggers the first text on Jester, and the player owning her gets a Curse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-07-22T22:46:11.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12525" CreationDate="2013-07-23T08:22:46.110" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you MUST always have an Admiral, just as you must always have a President. Page 28 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; has the full line of succession. If none of the players have selected a character from that initial list, the Admiral title simply goes to the next person on the full list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adama&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tigh&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Helo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apollo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starbuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boomer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyrol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zarek&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baltar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roslin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2013-07-23T08:22:46.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12537" CreationDate="2013-07-23T10:41:33.323" Score="11" ViewCount="1787" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wistful%20Thinking&quot;&gt;Wistful Thinking&lt;/a&gt; on my opponent, whose hand has two Mountain cards. Wistful Thinking resolves and my opponent draws a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; and another Mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can my opponent cast Shock before discarding it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5565" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T15:42:33.833" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T17:41:15.597" Title="Can a player respond while a spell is resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12535" CreationDate="2013-07-23T12:26:51.613" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, they can not cast the Shock.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive rule 608, all parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the card text contains 'then' does not make the two parts separate abilities. The whole effect of drawing, then discarding, happens in that order while the spell resolves. There is time in between drawing and discarding for the new information to be reacted upon. However, there is no break in the resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no passing of priority until the spell completely resolves, and thus no opportunity to cast the instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit June 2018:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to the Madness key word and abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Madness trigger may cause someone to believe that in response to a card being discarded the 'Madness' ability interrupts the resolution of the thing on the stack that would trigger madness. This is not the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 702.34 which defines Madness has this to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.34a Madness is a keyword that represents two abilities. The first is a static ability that functions while the card with madness is in a&#xA;  player’s hand. The second is a triggered ability that functions when&#xA;  the first ability is applied. “Madness [cost]” means “If a player&#xA;  would discard this card, that player discards it, but exiles it&#xA;  instead of putting it into their graveyard” and “When this card is&#xA;  exiled this way, its owner may cast it by paying [cost] rather than&#xA;  paying its mana cost. If that player doesn’t, they put this card into&#xA;  their graveyard.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it is not explicitly stated here, this does not cause the player who's card is exiled to receive priority at that time. The card is in exile and when the player who exiled the card has priority again, they are able to choose to cast the card(s) in exile or let it(them) go into the graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2018-06-04T17:41:15.597" LastActivityDate="2018-06-04T17:41:15.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-24T12:37:03.353" Score="10" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing Bridge last night my partner opened 2NT, showing 20-21 points. I had 11 HCP and a five card major. I used Jacoby Transfer, calling 3 hearts and my partner responded 3 spades (all OK so far) I then needed to show our possible small slam hand. I did not want to call 4 spades as she may only have had two spades. Equally I didn't want to call 3NT in case she passed. I therefore called 4NT and a big debate started about whether that was Ace asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I have responded? All Jacoby Transfer pages I find on the net only specify full responses after 1NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5574" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T22:58:53.303" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T22:58:53.303" Title="American Five Card majors - using Jacoby to respond to a 2NT opening bid" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10838" CreationDate="2013-07-24T14:19:22.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't stand all disaster you need to at least protect your scholars.So you always need other people that you sacrifice for the disaster effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if a lot of disaster are in the beginning of the year this can be possible. Also you need to play against beginner player as experienced players will block you or do more point than you , by having more room than you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the geisha soon is also a plus for this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already see someone win by this strategy but more often they will fail. In my opinion you need to mix other source point to achieve victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T14:19:22.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12538" CreationDate="2013-07-24T14:33:35.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is probably a matter of partnership agreement. It depends on what other sequences you have available and what they would show. For instance, do you play Texas transfers (i.e. 4D and 4H are also transfers)? There is no clear-cut answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, absent any discussion, without having a found fit yet (when opening bid is 1 or 2NT), I would take any jump to 4NT by responder as quantitative, as a matter of 'general' principle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T14:33:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12538" CreationDate="2013-07-24T15:24:58.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Aryabhata as far as general principle. Most beginners and even intermediate players greatly overuse Ace-asking bids -- their primary purpose is to keep you out of a slam when you have the tricks but lack controls in side suits; they shouldn't be used to get into a slam when you're not sure you have the values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent agreement in this situation is to use Texas transfers as well as Jacoby. Now you can use the sequences like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2NT-3H-3S-4NT: Usually 5332, quantitative invitate to a small slam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2NT-3H-3S-4C: 5-4 or better in spades and clubs (this is mostly to find the best strain, but you can use the follow-on auction to look for slam)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2NT-3H-3S-4S: at least 6 spades, a faint invitation to slam (opener might look for slam with something like Kxx Ax AKQxx AJx -- rich in controls, a good source of tricks)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2NT-4H-4S-pass: at least 6 spades, no interest in slam&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2NT-4H-4S-4NT: Whatever your normal Ace-asking bid is (Blackwood, RKC), with 6 spades at least.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2NT-4H-4S-5C: at least 6 spades, first-round control in clubs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;etc&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T15:24:58.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6395" CreationDate="2013-07-24T15:39:55.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/bpu/strategy4.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swing Dice theory&lt;/a&gt;, Avis has the advantage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players choose the same size X, Iago needs to keep 20 points to win (the 2/3 difference between his 60+X points and Avis' 30+X). So all things being equal, Iago needs to win and hold on to one of his 20-siders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad news for Iago is that even in the best case (Avis takes a d20, Iago takes a d4), he still needs to hold 9.3 points (which means he still needs that d20, since the d4 won't cut it here). The point difference between the two buttons is wide enough that Iago must always win - there's no case where Avis can end up with a higher point total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The news gets worse - if Iago ends up with a larger X than Avis, he now needs to hold &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; dice. And it doesn't help that Avis has five dice vs. Iago's four - given that a normal game of BM involves taking dice each round, he needs Avis to pass at least once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up - Iago's &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; action is to take a d4 (regardless of what Avis has), win initiative, force Avis to pass at least once each battle, take all of Avis' dice, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; hold one of the d20s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Avis, on the other hand, can take a d20 and &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; force Iago to win and hold a d10 or better to win. There's no bad matchup for him.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: a quick Excel spreadsheet to calculate win conditions for each combination of Xs. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T17:15:12.157" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T17:15:12.157" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12543" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-24T16:59:48.503" Score="3" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner and I play a strong NT and 5 card Majors. However, we're unsure how to open strong hands with no long suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, how do we open a 4432 hand with 16-19 high card points or 20-22 high card points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do we open 4441 hands with 16 or more high card points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5577" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T23:43:53.720" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T23:43:53.720" Title="Opening bids with no long suits" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12544" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-24T19:09:05.223" Score="1" ViewCount="11223" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I activate a creature ability that puts creatures on the battlefield, can my opponet counter it with a counter target creature spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5578" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T22:48:56.410" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T12:51:46.713" Title="Can someone counter a creature ability with a counter target creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12543" CreationDate="2013-07-24T19:28:20.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;4432, 5332, and 4333 shapes are all balanced, and should be bid as such. It is my sense that these days, it is common to open 1NT even with a 5-card major, although it is not universal. Pairs with weak 1NT openers are less likely to open a 5-card major with 1NT because they have a different set of methods than pairs with strong NT openers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In America these days, a &quot;strong no trump&quot; implies a 15-17 HCP range for 1NT openers, so you'd open a 4432 like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 12-14 HCP, open a minor and plan to rebid 1NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 15-17 HCP, open 1NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 18-19 HCP, open a minor and plan to jump to 2NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 20-21 HCP, open 2NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4441 is the hardest shape to bid, since systems are mostly not built with them in mind. My preference is to open the lowest 4-card suit. With 16+ (not counting any singleton honor), you can splinter if partner bids one of your suits. If your short suit is spades or clubs, you can rebid 2H (slightly lying about your shape) when partner bids your singleton. If your short suit is diamonds or hearts, with 17-19 you'll have to rebid 2NT, and with 20-22 you'll have to jump to 2S when partner bids your singleton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T21:21:58.847" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T21:21:58.847" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-24T19:31:06.923" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes enjoy playing some board games like ticket to ride or settlers of catan on my ipad. In most cases I prefer to play against the AI, because it allows me to pause the game and continue at a later time. However, the AI-players in the games I played are kind of weak and I lose interest after playing a couple of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I would like to buy a new game but with a competitive AI. I prefer games for 3-4 players with a length of less than 2 hours. Can you recommend something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5562" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T20:10:45.007" Title="ipad implementation of board games with strong AI" Tags="|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-07-27T04:55:53.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12544" CreationDate="2013-07-24T19:43:59.513" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't counter an ability with an effect that says &lt;code&gt;counter target spell&lt;/code&gt;. You can only counter a spell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons why people play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=aether%20vial&quot;&gt;aether vial&lt;/a&gt;, because you can't counter creatures put into play with aether vial&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to pay attention to the wording of the ability.  Because if the ability says that you can &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;cast&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; the creature such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%27s%20Horde&quot;&gt;Garruk&amp;#39;s Horde&lt;/a&gt;, than it does take the form of spell, and can therefore be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the ability says to &lt;strong&gt;put it onto the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; than it's not a spell, and can't be countered&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2013-07-24T19:50:09.447" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T19:50:09.447" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12551" CreationDate="2013-07-24T20:05:59.840" Score="9" ViewCount="7033" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are all the promo cards available for Dominion? I found &lt;em&gt;Black Market&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Envoy&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Walled Village&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Governor&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Stash&lt;/em&gt; on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeekstore.com/search?q=dominion&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek Store&lt;/a&gt;.  Are there more?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the promo cards are out of stock. Are they limited edition cards?  Or do they come in and out of stock periodically?  Are they available anywhere else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-07T06:49:11.217" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T06:49:11.217" Title="What are all the promo cards available for Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-promotional|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12543" CreationDate="2013-07-24T22:03:08.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As already pointed out, 4432 hands are balanced and must be bid as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 16-19 HCP open a minor (1D if they are 44, 1C if they are 33, else the longest) and rebid 2NT. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 20-21 HCP open 2NT. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 22+ open 2C and rebid 2NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 12-14 pt. 4441 hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;singleton heart or spade: open 1D and either raise partner's suit or rebid 2C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;singleton diamond: open 1C and either raise partner's suit or rebid 1H.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;singleton club: open 1D and either raise partner's suit or rebid 2H over 2C. If partner bids your singleton every possible rebid is a lie; choose the smallest lie, choose it smoothly to not give partner an ethical problem; and bid cautiously unless a delayed fit is found.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise for stronger 4441 hands, except the caution can be reduced a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 16-19 HCP and three points for the singleton, we are talking a strong hand. Open as above, and splinter if partner bids one of your suits. A 2NT rebid might be considered if partner responds 2C over your singleton club, but some partners won't tolerate this. Otherwise rebid as above, and await partner's rebid; Without a fit, there is no hurry to force to a challenging game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that if partner responds 2C over a 1D opening, &lt;strong&gt;partner promises to give you a third bid opportunity&lt;/strong&gt;. That is the meaning of a two-over-one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T22:03:08.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12538" CreationDate="2013-07-24T22:18:14.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest (and I believe most comprehensive) agreement is that 4NT is quantitative by a Jacoby transferor (with 4C available as Gerber) and 4NT is Blackwood by a Texas transferor. The rationale for this style is that a Jacoby transferor &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; set the denomination, as an eight card fit is not confirmed; thus the option reverts to opener to show strength and length with his 2nd rebid. Likewise a responder with exactly 5 trumps can ask for aces with a 4C (Gerber) rebid, confirming that opener is allowed to convert back to NT after responder sets the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand a Texas Transferor &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; set the strain as an eight card fit is confirmed. 4NT would then be Key Card (if played) or normal Blackwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This then provides a distinction between transferring at the 2/3 level and raising to 4, versus a straight Texas transfer. The latter is sign-off, and the former is invitational with 6 trumps, but a hand that is (1) unsuitable for notrump; (2) without a singleton; (3) unable to bid Blackwood/Gerber (usually because of owning a small doubleton).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-07-27T20:26:48.597" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T20:26:48.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12548" CreationDate="2013-07-24T23:02:13.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &quot;Hans im Glück&quot;, which is the publisher of Dominion in Germany, there are only those five promo cards available. At the moment they sell the german version of the stash (Geldversteck) and the Governor (Gouverneur) in their online store &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cundco.de&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cundco.de&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also say that as soon as they are out of stock, they wont sell any new cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a german Dominion big box available at amazon.de which contains all promo cards. The description of the Dominion big box at amazon.com, however, says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Additionally it contains promo card sets which may vary &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this box will most propably not contain all of the promo cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5562" LastActivityDate="2013-07-24T23:02:13.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12552" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12554" CreationDate="2013-07-24T23:59:27.937" Score="1" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;If both of these cards are on the field, how are their effects resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Barrier Statue of the Abyss&lt;/strong&gt;(Effect Monster)&#xA;&lt;em&gt;No monsters can be Special Summoned, except for DARK monsters.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Barrier Statue of the Heavens&lt;/strong&gt; (Effect Monster)&#xA;&lt;em&gt;No monsters can be Special Summoned, except for LIGHT monsters.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastEditorUserId="7745" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T18:57:21.260" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T18:57:21.260" Title="Barrier Statue of the Abyss and Barrier Statue of the Heavens -- A Contradiction?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2013-07-25T01:36:42.740" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I sometimes buy coppers to replace ones I've trashed when using the moneylender card.  I generally only do this in early to mid game play in order to build up my gold supply.  Once your deck starts building, however, the chances that your moneylender will be in the same hand as your coppers are slim, so I'd stop getting them and try to rid yourself of the money lender for a more useful card (mining if you can is not bad)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5580" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T01:36:42.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12552" CreationDate="2013-07-25T03:16:10.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Monsters can be Special Summoned.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Both Monsters have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/uk/rulebook/V7_English_Rlbk_lores.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Continuous Effect&lt;/a&gt; (page 14 of PDF) that is active while they are on the field. BSotAbyss blocks all non-DARK Monsters from being special summoned, so when you Attempt to Special Summon a DARK Monster, it is BSotHeaven that blocks you, and vice versa when you Special Summon a LIGHT Monster, it is BSotAbyss that blocks you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is active while the Effect Monster Card is face-up on the field. The effect starts when the face-up monster appears on the field, and ends once that monster is gone or is no longer face-up; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Barrier Statues &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings:Barrier_Statue_of_the_Abyss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;prevent any Special Summoning&lt;/a&gt;, unless the Monster is of a matching Atribute (page 11).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Barrier_Statue_of_the_Abyss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barrier Statue of the Abyss&lt;/a&gt; - No monsters can be Special Summoned, except for DARK monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Barrier_Statue_of_the_Heavens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barrier Statue of the Heavens&lt;/a&gt; - No monsters can be Special Summoned, except for LIGHT monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T21:26:55.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12511" CreationDate="2013-07-25T05:25:41.813" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many forums indicate that Skaven are generally thought to be quite strong in the newest edition of Warhammer Fantasy due to their focus on large blocks of infantry that are difficult to break. They are strong in every phase of the game, and have some very powerful rare units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the competitiveness of different types of armies, the extremely irreverent website &lt;a href=&quot;http://1d4chan.org/wiki/Warhammer/Tactics/Skaven&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://1d4chan.org/wiki/Warhammer/Tactics/Skaven&lt;/a&gt; should provide some useful information to get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5582" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T05:25:41.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2130" CreationDate="2013-07-25T05:37:47.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride we aim to &quot;play nice&quot; and not perform pure blocking moves for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;provide a more friendly and casual atmosphere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;save the less experienced players from getting slaughtered&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing to win at all costs is a surefire way of peeving off at least half my gaming group (including any female spouses), but in a competitive setting, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5582" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T05:37:47.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12559" CreationDate="2013-07-25T11:31:27.260" Score="27" ViewCount="53884" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm concerned my niece, who's ten and has been raised on the likes of Hannah Montana, has little to no imagination or creativity. I want to find games we can play that will push her thinking out of the Disney drone-mold and I think that Dixit looks perfect for this. However, there's a problem; there are too many versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amazon.co.uk stocks the following versions of Dixit:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asmodee-Editions-5511302-Dixit-Board/dp/B001OH9EDW/ref=pd_bxgy_k_h_b_cs_img_y&quot;&gt;Dixit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asmodee-Dix02-Dixit-2/dp/B0037LXTUW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1374751474&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=dixit&quot;&gt;Dixit 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Libellud-001601-Dixit-3/dp/B008YDC454/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1374751474&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=dixit&quot;&gt;Dixit 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asmodee-ASMDIX03-Dixit-Odyssey-Game/dp/B004WRJ382/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1374751474&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=dixit&quot;&gt;Dixit Odyssey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dixit-Journey-Board-Game-DIX04ASM/dp/B007PJFIU6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1374751474&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=dixit&quot;&gt;Dixit Journey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me Odyssey looks the most random, but may be too far out for someone with little imagination, at least to start with. Common sense suggests starting with Dixit, as it's the first, but that also makes it the oldest; theoretically the newest would be the most stable and well made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not looking for opinions here, rather I'm after facts about the different games that may help decide which one is right for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is: What makes each version of Dixit different, and what can you tell me about each that may help decide which version is best for my situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T08:24:16.963" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T16:32:11.443" Title="Differences between Dixit versions?" Tags="|dixit|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12557" CreationDate="2013-07-25T12:17:11.100" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The concept of all the Dixit games are the same, they just have different images. The regular Dixit's images are definitely random. The Odyssey and Journey are more themed around travel and adventure. If you are a fantasy adventure person, I'd recommend Journey because there is Harry potter and Lord of the Rings references galore to be made. As for the regular Dixits (1,2, and 3) they all will be of the same quality of playing so if you have the chance to look at the cards, pick the pack with your favorite artwork. The whole point of the game is to see the creative things people see in each card. You and your niece may not think of the same idea for one card and that is the beauty and re-usability of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T12:17:11.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12557" CreationDate="2013-07-25T12:23:47.250" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally own all of the above apart from Dixit Journey (which I didn't even know existed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should know that, Dixit 2 and 3, aren't technically stand-alone games; they're only sets of additional cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dixit Oddysey is nearly the same as original Dixit when it comes to rules. As far as I remember it has all the rules the original had, plus some additions for bigger number of players. It also has a set of pieces for greater number of players (up to 12, I think). The biggest difference are the actual cards - those are entirely new when compared to original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is to buy the Oddysey, as it contains the game pieces helpful* in playing a game and a manual. Then if your niece likes the game you could buy the others for additional cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*) As long as you have access to the game rules, you don't really need anything apart from the cards. All the other pieces in the boxes are used to keep track of players score, and to 'vote' for the cards - if you can manage this some other way (easiest and most crude would be pen&amp;amp;paper solution) you could buy only the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5542" LastEditorUserId="5542" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T08:35:40.890" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T08:35:40.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12544" CreationDate="2013-07-25T12:51:46.713" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for the reasons Sam cited.  But he could probably counter it with a spell like this, if he really wanted to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4Q3rN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T12:51:46.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13493" CreationDate="2013-07-25T14:19:36.600" Score="9" ViewCount="9151" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Geek &amp;amp; Sundry's episode of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&amp;amp;v=4ZpMEVQYBO8&amp;amp;t=312&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Table Top&lt;/a&gt; featuring Smash Up, they were using larger base cards that featured a built-in counter for the break point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V2EzQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ninja Dojo expanded base card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just bought Smash Up, and it came with base cards that lack the counter, and are the same size as the rest of the deck cards for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these bigger versions available?  Can I download them from somewhere and print my own, or does the manufacturer offer them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:53:25.333" Title="Are the larger base cards available for Smash Up?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|smash-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12561" CreationDate="2013-07-25T14:25:49.147" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;It appears that the manufacturer has decided that it was economically unfeasible to release the new base cards&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Todd Rowland, one of the Game Designers/Publishers, has confirmed that the base cards in the episode were made by AEG (the publisher), and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/993835/tabletops-large-base-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;will be made available later this year&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No we made them, and we've made them for AL9K and Cthulhu as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We will make them available later this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastEditorUserId="1870" LastEditDate="2014-03-28T16:58:12.153" LastActivityDate="2014-03-28T16:58:12.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12602" CreationDate="2013-07-25T14:49:00.670" Score="9" ViewCount="42896" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the game, and haven't had a chance to play yet, but I did a quick run through on the decks (I got the basic version; no expansions yet), and it seemed like some of the combinations might be actively detrimental (e.g. some decks have Actions that target Minions with a power of 1, so pairing that deck with one of the decks with power 1 Minions might make those Actions less useful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When picking the two decks to combine, which ones should I avoid pairing?  Why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1870" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T09:56:22.587" Title="Are there specific deck combinations to avoid in Smash Up?" Tags="|deck-building|smash-up|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2013-07-25T17:46:19.233" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plants/Steampunk and Ghost:&lt;/strong&gt; Plants and Steampunk have ways to draw additional cards every single turn, but the Ghost deck is trying to discard all of its cards, and is often most powerful with an empty hand. (The Wizards get a pass here; they draw cards on demand rather than every single turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wizards and Robots:&lt;/strong&gt; the Robot deck is light on action cards, and the Wizard deck has too many ways to allow you to play extra actions (which you won't be able to take advantage of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bears/Pirates/Aliens:&lt;/strong&gt; Bear and Pirate have a lot of move-minion cards, and Alien has a lot of return-minion-to-hand cards; you're only going to find it useful to move/evict minions &lt;em&gt;so many times&lt;/em&gt; during a game. They can still work well together, but you're more likely to have several extra move-minion cards that you can't think of a use for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if your deck is too powerful, then your opponents are more likely to team up against you; a weak deck will keep more heat off of you. The game is powered by &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/RuleOfCool&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule of Cool (warning: TV Tropes)&lt;/a&gt; anyway, so don't sweat it too much. (Robot Bears vs. Ninja Plants!) It's much more fun to pick your deck-halves randomly than to dither over which decks to pick together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T05:02:11.990" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T05:02:11.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12546" CreationDate="2013-07-25T20:10:45.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola from Playdek offer a good challenge. And you can play single or the serie mode against yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elder Sign , Summon War and Yggdrasil are also good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More depend of the game theme that you like ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2013-07-25T20:10:45.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12548" CreationDate="2013-07-26T00:34:36.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are all of the promos, and some of them were available when you bought whichever expansion was coming out at the time, or at events - apparently some of the TableTop Day store promotional packs included a few Dominion promos - but generally the BGG store is the place to get them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T00:34:36.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-26T06:03:08.907" Score="5" ViewCount="1360" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you made a concealed Kan on the first turn and won on the extra tile that you drew, would you get Heaven/Earth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do your own concealed Kans interrupt the game flow, or does it only apply when someone else steals a discard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar example: Kanning into first turn riichi. Is it considered a first turn riichi?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3282" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T15:08:39.080" Title="Does a concealed Kan interrupt the game flow?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12570" CreationDate="2013-07-26T06:15:55.730" Score="3" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a relatively new MtG player, and among my first batch of cards was &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/41.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leyline Phantom&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZJcA6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot; title=&quot;Leyline Phantom. Costs one Water mana and four mana of any color. Creature - Illusion. The card reads: when Leyline Phantom deals combat damage, return it to its owner&amp;#39;s hand.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I wondered what I'd do with a card that might return to my hand regularly. Is it a relatively cheap source of power and toughness at a trade-off? I figured this would be mainly used for triggering various effects, but I had no idea what they were until yesterday. It would work very well in at least these two situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It cooperates well with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/46.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sage's Row Denizen&lt;/a&gt; from the Dimir Delusion starter, which mills the opponent a little bit each time a blue creature is played and can help strengthen other Dimir Delusion cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could be used to regularly trigger evolution in Simic Combine creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm wondering what other uses for it I'm missing, and whether there's even more to the above two points than what I've mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I take advantage of Leyline Phantom?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-02T02:50:42.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T02:50:42.570" Title="When would I use Leyline Phantom?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12280" CreationDate="2013-07-26T06:58:38.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it has already been said, but I will second Pithing Needle. You don't need anything more than that, as it can turn Aetherling into a 6 mana cost vanilla 4/5 creature. You don't even need to let the Aetherling hit the table; On the first turn you can drop Pithing Needle naming Aetherling and he's taken care of. Plus there are many other targets in Standard, like Planeswalkers and Olivia Volarden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5589" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T16:51:44.823" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T16:51:44.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12568" CreationDate="2013-07-26T09:12:23.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've pretty much summed it up yourself. While you probably would not put Leyline Phantom in a constructed deck, it saw a fair amount of play in limited, since it both has a pretty big body for the cost and has various synergies with a few other cards in the same limited environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not spend to much time trying to figure out other ways to use the card; since the card is just not very powerful. I'm sure there are plenty of other cards that combo with Leyline Phantom, but for most of those there are lots of other cards that combo even better (e.g. the &quot;gating&quot; creatures from Invasion block).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T09:12:23.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12573" CreationDate="2013-07-26T12:52:22.787" Score="5" ViewCount="3107" Body="&lt;p&gt;When in Tokyo if I use Wings (Pay 2 energy to avoid damage until the end of the monster turn) to avoid damage can I still leave Tokyo and have the player that rolled the claw take my place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I need to actually take damage to be able to leave Tokyo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-07-28T18:18:28.827" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T18:18:28.827" Title="Do wings allow me to leave Tokyo?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12568" CreationDate="2013-07-26T14:26:33.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were running a Blue and Green (Simic) deck featuring creatures with Evolve (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/119.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Experiment One&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/123.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gyre Sage&lt;/a&gt;), it could be very beneficial to cast Leyline Phantom multiple times, as the combination of a high power/toughness, plus a (relatively) low casting cost would let you trigger Evolve several times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T14:26:33.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12571" CreationDate="2013-07-26T16:41:40.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/63033/king-of-tokyo-english-rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state (under &quot;Becoming King of Tokyo&quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are attacked while in Tokyo and you don't want to be there anymore ... you can yield to the Monster that attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no mention of actually taking damage. You merely need to be attacked. According to the rules, if you are attacked, may cede Tokyo even if you avoid the damage using the Wings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T16:41:40.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12576" CreationDate="2013-07-26T19:49:13.263" Score="2" ViewCount="4434" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/72.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Image&lt;/a&gt; that enters the battlefield copying the abilities of another creature, when does that creature stop having the abilities of the copy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it enters the graveyard, do &quot;when this creature enters the graveyard&quot; effects occur?&#xA;If I copy a creature with scavenge, can I scavenge my Phantasmal Image after it has died?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T20:11:32.853" Title="When do copied abilities on a creature go away?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12574" CreationDate="2013-07-26T19:55:22.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No the copy effect is no longer active once it has died.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the phantasmal image is put into the graveyard the effect it created when it entered the battlefield is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the 'when this creature enters the graveyard effects', I am not aware of that verbiage but there are a number of triggered abilities that happen when a creature goes to the graveyard or dies, is destroyed etc. Those effects would trigger because as the phatasmal Image is dieing and destined to go to the graveyard, it is still a copy of the creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The effect basically ends as soon as the phantasmal Image is no longer a permanent.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pertinent comp rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.3b The effect applies at all times that the permanent generating it is on the battlefield or the object generating it is in the&#xA;  appropriate zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case that means as long as the Phantasmal Image is on the battelfield, then it's copy effect is continuos and as soon as it is not, it ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T20:01:00.263" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T20:01:00.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12574" CreationDate="2013-07-26T20:05:16.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will keep its abilities as long as it doesn't leave the battlefield. When it leaves the battlefiel, it is considered a new object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. &lt;strong&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7a Effects from spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities that change the characteristics of a permanent spell on the&#xA;stack continue to apply to the permanent that spell becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7b Prevention effects that apply to damage from a permanent spell on the stack continue to apply to damage from the permanent that spell&#xA;becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7c If an ability of a permanent requires information about choices made as that permanent was cast as a spell, including what mana was&#xA;spent to cast that spell, it uses information about the spell that&#xA;became that permanent as it resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7d Abilities that trigger when an object moves from one zone to another (for example, “When Rancor is put into a graveyard from the&#xA;battlefield”) can find the new object that it became in the zone it&#xA;moved to when the ability triggered, if that zone is a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7e Abilities of Auras that trigger when the enchanted permanent leaves the battlefield can find the new object that Aura became in its&#xA;owner’s graveyard if it was put into that graveyard at the same time&#xA;the enchanted permanent left the battlefield. It can also find the new&#xA;object that Aura became in its owner’s graveyard as a result of being&#xA;put there as a state-based action for not being attached to a&#xA;permanent. (See rule 704.5n.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7f If an effect grants a nonland card an ability that allows it to be cast, that ability will continue to apply to the new object that&#xA;card became after it moved to the stack as a result of being cast this&#xA;way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7g A resolving spell or activated ability can perform actions on an object that moved from one zone to another while that spell was&#xA;being cast or that ability was being activated, if that object moved&#xA;to a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, in the graveyard, it won't be a copy anymore, so you can't scavenge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield triggered abilities will work, because the game looks for the characteristics of the object on the battlefield. For example, persist will work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6c &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone&lt;/strong&gt;, or when a phased-in permanent&#xA;leaves the game because its owner leaves the game. These are written&#xA;as, but aren’t limited to, “When [this object] leaves the battlefield,&#xA;. . .” or “Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the&#xA;battlefield, . . . .” An ability that attempts to do something to the&#xA;card that left the battlefield checks for it only in the first zone&#xA;that it went to. An ability that triggers when a card is put into a&#xA;certain zone “from anywhere” is never treated as a&#xA;leaves-the-battlefield ability, even if an object is put into that&#xA;zone from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d &lt;strong&gt;Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions&lt;/strong&gt;. Continuous&#xA;effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger&#xA;conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially.&#xA;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, abilities that trigger when a&#xA;permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all&#xA;players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger&#xA;specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger&#xA;when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger&#xA;when a player planeswalks away from a plane &lt;strong&gt;will trigger based on&#xA;their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event&#xA;rather than afterward&lt;/strong&gt;. The game has to “look back in time” to&#xA;determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, remember that abilities like the one in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; are not Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, because they tigger when the permanent is put on the graveyard from anywhere, not only from the battlefield. Therefore, that ability won't work if you copy Emrakul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-07-26T20:11:32.853" LastActivityDate="2013-07-26T20:11:32.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8138" CreationDate="2013-07-27T15:13:03.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I read the rules, it's pretty straight forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your brother is not allowed to simply play an action card. Neither are you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must announce that you intend to use an action card. If anybody wants to do the same, they announce it as well. Then the cards are being resolved in turn order. The one with the smallest number (Initiative, Diplomacy...) resolves first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the smallest number the dreadnought is destroyed. Your brother's Emergency Repairs is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your brother has the smallest number the dreadnought is repaired. Your Direct Hit is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5592" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-07-27T18:06:18.407" LastActivityDate="2013-07-27T18:06:18.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12580" CreationDate="2013-07-28T16:31:32.293" Score="6" ViewCount="2911" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of a trick called &quot;En passant&quot; but what does it mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5595" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T16:56:54.630" Title="On chess what exactly is the &quot;En passant&quot; trick?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-07-28T21:22:53.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12579" CreationDate="2013-07-28T16:56:54.630" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a trick. En passant is a rule of pawns in chess just as the rule for 2 square starting advance is. In fact its introduction to the rules came directly from the 2 square advance's introduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;En passant (from French: in passing) is a move in the board game of&#xA;  chess. It is a special pawn capture which can occur immediately after&#xA;  a player moves a pawn two squares forward from its starting position,&#xA;  and an enemy pawn could have captured it had the same pawn moved only&#xA;  one square forward. The opponent captures the just-moved pawn as if&#xA;  taking it &quot;as it passes&quot; through the first square. The resulting&#xA;  position is the same as if the pawn had moved only one square forward&#xA;  and the enemy pawn had captured normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The en passant capture must be done on the very next turn, or the&#xA;  right to do so is lost. Such a move is the only occasion in chess in&#xA;  which a piece captures but does not move to the square of the captured&#xA;  piece. If an en passant capture is the only legal move available, it&#xA;  must be made. En passant capture is a common theme in chess&#xA;  compositions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This rule was added in the 15th century when the rule giving pawns the&#xA;  option of initially moving two squares was introduced. It prevents a&#xA;  pawn from using the two-square advance to pass an adjacent enemy pawn&#xA;  without the risk of being captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially the rule prevents an opponent's pawn from blowing past your pawn using it's initial 2 square advance. If your opponent moves their pawn 2 squares past the point where your pawn could capture it, then you may move your pawn to capture it anyway. Your movement is the same diagonal attack into the square that the opponent's pawn would have occupied had it advanced only one square. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T16:56:54.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11330" CreationDate="2013-07-28T20:15:03.137" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the king castled through check, your opponent made an illegal move. Call it, and you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T20:15:03.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2013-07-28T23:13:59.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest flaws in this game is the lack of decks with draw potential that seem like they could be good combinations. For example Bears/Steam Punk (from the expansion) seem like an excellent combination. However they have so few cards that allow you to draw additional cards from your deck that very often by the end of the game you're barely half way through your deck. This leaves a lot of the game to chance as you have to get the combinations you need at the right time and if you don't, there's little you can do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a combination that allows you to draw more, such as the wizards or robots, and then combine them with another deck that works with your preferred strategy, or that counters your opponent. One of my favourite combinations, if I can get them, is Wizards/Plants as they synergise quite well. Wizards allow you to draw a lot of extra cards, and play lots of actions. Plants have a mix of upgradeable and draw / play extra monsters. It's a combination I've never lost with yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastActivityDate="2013-07-28T23:13:59.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-28T23:46:30.170" Score="4" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I gain a coin token through a gold mine on a mountain, through a famous person tile or through a &quot;bank&quot; tile, does that token remain on that square? If my opponent captures that square by beating me in a battle, do I lose the tokens I already gathered there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5603" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-07-28T23:57:46.327" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T06:30:08.617" Title="Do coin tokens accumulate on squares?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12583" CreationDate="2013-07-29T06:30:08.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is a little bit confused. &lt;strong&gt;Coin tokens do not accumulate on map squares.&lt;/strong&gt; Coin tokens are used only to track coins gained through technologies. Your economy dial tracks the total of coin tokens on your technologies, plus the current number of coins you control on the map. From p. 26 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/support/civilization-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may acquire economic power in the form of coins – either coins printed on building markers and map tiles, or coin tokens placed on certain tech cards (such&#xA;  as Code of Laws) as a reward for accomplishing particular tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coins that are lost because of your opponents' interference are indeed lost until/unless you recapture them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an enemy figure blockades the square containing the coin, it is lost while the enemy figure remains there. Similarly, if a building granting a coin to a player is destroyed, the coin is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, the coin tokens that you earn on your technology cards are yours forever:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Coin tokens advance the economy dial when gained and cannot be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T06:30:08.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12589" CreationDate="2013-07-29T11:44:54.227" Score="2" ViewCount="1584" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up for me at a tournament this weekend. I made it into the final where the first prize was sealed product with a value for the sake of discussion to be $100, and second prize was store credit to the value of $50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I discussed with the store owner prior to discussing with my opponent, because I did not want to put myself into the position of accidentally offering a bribe and being disqualified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;after this discussion the split was offered, my exact words being &quot;shall we split?&quot;, the response being essentially &quot;yes&quot; and we then discussed resolving that. We split the $50 store credit quite easily, and agreed that the best solution was for one of us to take and sell the sealed product and then split the proceeds after the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this seemed like an optimal solution in this situation, but there are plenty of situations where apportioning prizes can be much more challenging. a prime example being when one player wants &quot;bye&quot;s to a tournament that the other is not attending. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. What is the safest way to evaluate the value of the prizes during a split, without accidentally offering a bribe.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. If players initially agree to a split, is the subsequent debating of the value of prizes vs byes potentially still going to lead to bribery?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T22:35:26.837" Title="What is the safest way to approach discussing a prize split?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12585" CreationDate="2013-07-29T12:12:56.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may only split cash and sealed product prizes, and only evenly. From the Tournament rules (chapter 5.2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players in the single-elimination rounds of a tournament offering only cash and/or unopened product as prizes may, with the permission of the Tournament Organizer, agree to split the prizes evenly. The players may end the tournament at that point, or continue to play. All players still in the tournament must agree to the arrangement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: In the finals of a 1-slot Pro Tour Qualifier that offers a travel award and an invitation to the winner, the two finalists may agree to split the tournament prizes, but this agreement cannot alter the results of the match. One player must drop from the tournament, leaving the travel award and the invitation to the player who did not drop from the tournament. That player is then free to split the remainder of the prizes as agreed upon. The travel award and invitation are a single item and may not be split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is it is probably fine to treat store credits as cash for purposes of splitting, but I'm not a Magic judge so do not take my word for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, evaluating the value of byes/invitations for another tournament is by the definition above collusion, and definitely off limits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T12:12:56.700" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9631" CreationDate="2013-07-29T17:24:58.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;we have recently played a few games with only K cards - and they actually seem weaker! (with a few exceptions, of course.) gameplay need be more precise to take advantage of the relatively feeble improvements they offer. &#xA;also, we got the impression of the deck intentionally making it harder for all players by focusing on wood as a prerequisite for nearly all Minor Improvements. therefore, we tend to use the K deck when we feel extra competitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5605" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T17:24:58.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12585" CreationDate="2013-07-29T18:55:59.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'split' is only possible if everything is divisible.  It is basically just a shortcut for all remaining (generally 8 or 4) players all having to go around and individually agree with each other to evenly share any product they may win.  Then separately all going back around and all agreeing to drop from the tournament.  This is all completely allowed.  The 'Split' rules just spell out explicitly and reassure organizers (who aren't by any means expected to be rules wonks) that this particular scenario that comes up often when FNM runs late is allowed by DCI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make an agreement to share prizes any way you like, then actually play the match for real and report the real result.  Or ID, or one player may choose to concede/drop.  As long as there is no link between prize agreement and match result, it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If specific match results (including dropping from the tournament) are discussed, requested or offered, it's bribery, simple as that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is not possible to agree to share a prize (like byes and blue envelopes) without implicitly offering a match result because DCI requires the prize be awarded to particular finishing positions.  You are allowed to agree to split however you like &lt;strong&gt;only in the &lt;em&gt;final round&lt;/em&gt; of the tournament&lt;/strong&gt;.  Basically at this point you're not harming other people's prospects in the tournament, forcing someone to play for a prize they won't use is stupid, and forcing &quot;fake&quot; matches harms the integrity of the game far more than letting people work out dividing prizes they don't want/won't use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to your two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Don't mention or make any arrangements about match results and you can agree to do anything you want with transferable prizes you have won or may win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If you've made an agreement that requires reporting a particular match result such that one player advances to claim a particular prize, that is bribery.  If it's the final round of the tournament it's allowed for a player to drop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T22:35:26.837" LastActivityDate="2013-07-29T22:35:26.837" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12591" CreationDate="2013-07-29T22:39:48.167" Score="4" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Game of Thrones board game, each player gets a set of character cards that give bonuses to combat and can be played once each. Once a player has played all of their cards, they pick up all of their previously-played cards to use them again (except for the last-played card; that stays in the discard pile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when the character card Patchface causes you to discard your last character card? By a truly abusively literal reading of the rules, you don't get to pick up your discards. (The rules say something like &quot;if you have &lt;em&gt;played&lt;/em&gt; your last card...&quot;) This is obviously wrong, but which card must stay in the discard when you pick up your discards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An example:&lt;/strong&gt; I have two cards in my hand (MOST_POWERFUL_CARD and ICKY_CARD), and go to battle. I play MOST_POWERFUL_CARD, so that it will not be my last card played when I get into a battle next time. (I want ICKY_CARD to be my last played card, so it won't be in my hand when I pick up my discards.) My opponent plays Patchface, and causes me to discard ICKY_CARD. Combat resolves, and I win because Patchface is useless in combat. Now I'm going to pick up all of the cards in my discard, but I must leave behind my &quot;last played&quot; card. Which card stays in the discard: MOST_POWERFUL_CARD or ICKY_CARD?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-07-29T23:41:10.177" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T06:11:50.350" Title="What happens when Patchface discards somebody's last character card?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12590" CreationDate="2013-07-30T06:11:50.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The House card discarded by Patchface stays in the discard pile, all other cards are returned to the non-Baratheon players hand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe that an official answer exists for this situation, as noted here in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/775537/a-question-about-patchface-and-the-last-two-housec&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt;. I believe that a literal reading of the rules leads to a definitive answer. Important information of note from the rule book (page 19), under &lt;strong&gt;3. Choose and Reveal House Cards&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Playing a House card during combat &lt;strong&gt;is mandatory&lt;/strong&gt;. Both attacker and defender must play a card.&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book, page 19&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;At the end of a combat, if a player used his last (i.e., seventh) House card, he then returns the other six House cards currently in his discard pile to his hand. The last played card remains in the discard pile.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; All House cards, whether available &lt;strong&gt;or used (i.e., discarded)&lt;/strong&gt;, are public knowledge. As such, a player’s discard pile or hand may be examined by others players at any time except during Step 3 of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, I agree that you must pick up six House Cards, otherwise it would be impossible to satisfy the &lt;strong&gt;mandatory&lt;/strong&gt; playing of a house card during the next combat (1st rule quote). The rules indicate &lt;strong&gt;using&lt;/strong&gt; your seventh House card as the only rule (besides card rules text, like that of &lt;strong&gt;Roose Bolton&lt;/strong&gt;) that makes you eligible to pick up the other six House cards in your discard (2nd rule quote). Luckily, the rules define two possible statuses for House cards, &lt;strong&gt;available or used (i.e. discarded)&lt;/strong&gt; (emphasis mine) (3rd rule quote).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/faq/VA65_AGoT2_FAQ_v1_4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ1.0 2nd Edition&lt;/a&gt;, we know that Patchface's ability applies after a player would pick up their six other cards, after playing their seventh. Since the non-Baratheon player isn't playing their last card though, the sixth card (played by the non-Baratheon player) is discarded, then Patchface discards their seventh and last card, making the non-Baratheon player pick up all their other cards &lt;strong&gt;including the House card played this combat.&lt;/strong&gt; The House card discarded by Patchface stays in the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: If a House card’s text ability says “after combat...,” when is that card resolved?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: At the end of the Combat Clean Up step of Combat Resolution (&lt;strong&gt;after played House cards are discarded to their respective discard piles&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: If the Baratheon player plays his “Patchface” House card but his opponent is playing his last remaining House card, does the Baratheon player still get to discard one of his opponent’s House cards?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes, Patchface’s text ability would allow the Baratheon player to discard one of his opponent’s six House cards at the end of the Combat Clean Up step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T06:11:50.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12567" CreationDate="2013-07-30T06:14:44.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warning: not exactly familiar with the term Riichi, nor with the specific Mahjong ruleset Riichi Mahjong (Henceforth, RMJ). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the books I've read, and the 3 different published rulesets I've played (One of which was a 1960's Japanese rulebook translation), the functional definition of &quot;on the first turn&quot; is &quot;without having discarded.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having just read the rules for Riichi from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong-europe.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EMJA&lt;/a&gt;, the rules for Riichi Blessing of Heaven (East out on deal), Blessing of Earth (non-east out on self-drawn tile), and Bleassing of Man (non-east out on claimed discard) forbid concealed Kong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the RMJ rules and the 1 of the rulesets I've played agree that any play after a discard is claimed is no longer first turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TLDR: in the Riichi ruleset, yes, Kans/Kongs do preclude the &quot;first turn&quot; bonuses.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T06:14:44.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12594" CreationDate="2013-07-30T08:32:46.047" Score="6" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a game in which players add tiles to the board (similar to Carcassone) in order to create sequences of symbols (which are on the tiles) - they are then used for playing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mechanism works nice, but the problem is, that the first few rounds - there are just not enough tiles (and symbols) on the board so players can only place a tile and pass the turn because they are unable to play any card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Midgame is fine and at the end of every round, there are enough symbols on the board to play almost any card you have in your hand... which is not what I was hoping for when designing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any idea for a mechanism, that would eliminate this &quot;slow&quot; start and too &quot;easy&quot; end of every round? I was thinking about dealing some tiles on the board in the beginning at random and limiting the total numbers of tiles avaliable, but I am not sure if this wouldnt spoil the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I havent found any boardgames which uses this exact kind of mechanism (paying for cards with sequences of placed tiles) so I am trying to come up with something that would balance the gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any tips (I can provide some additional info if needed)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5388" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:45:42.603" Title="Mechanism to balance all game stages" Tags="|game-design|prototyping|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12593" CreationDate="2013-07-30T12:43:41.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I was thinking about dealing some tiles on the board in the beginning at random and limiting the total numbers of tiles available&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to try it and see. It's the most natural solution, and that's what playtesting is for. If it turns out not to be fun, you can always bail midgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are all the symbols the same rarity? If some are associated with more &quot;basic&quot; or introductory actions, you could choose a few specific starter tiles that contain only those symbols and start the round with those in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could include cards that can be played for a reduced effect without the appropriate matching symbols. This would encourage players to match the symbols, but give them something to do early on while the board develops.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As midgame passes, perhaps players move to replacing existing tiles rather than placing entirely new ones. This would keep the board from becoming too full of options while not cutting the round short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T12:43:41.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12593" CreationDate="2013-07-30T13:02:42.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I'd make sure this is a real problem. The beginning game of &quot;play a tile&quot; should be really quick, so it may not be as big of a deal as you think it is. I'm thinking of some of the &quot;flip a tile&quot; games for exploration, where it's an obvious move, and those plays go by quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like sitnaltax's idea of limiting the board to a fixed number of tiles. This would encourage strategy of limiting other player's actions and duplicating symbols on the board (or having some cards require multiple of the same symbol for an enhanced effect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T13:02:42.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12593" CreationDate="2013-07-30T13:40:18.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend having a starting block.  This could be a 4/4 printed board with some of the symbols on it.  Players could then add their tiles to this block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also draw some tiles randomly and build this block.  It may be less balanced, but a random starting condition often makes games better.  You could even have a suggested starting block for beginners printed in the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would be concerned about in this case is 1st player advantage.  They would have an easy time attaching to a random block first and taking full advantage of it.  In a way I like your game's start where going 1st has a disadvantage until you take your second turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T13:54:42.320" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T13:54:42.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12599" CreationDate="2013-07-30T17:20:52.023" Score="7" ViewCount="4714" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically I'm wondering how long Magic cards are actually printed/in production. IE: Being made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume it's just whatever is in the standard block? but it could go further back. Wizards has a reprint policy, but it has more to do with specific cards and not decks as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5613" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T04:36:30.460" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T04:36:30.460" Title="How long are magic cards actually &quot;printed&quot;/&quot;In production&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12598" CreationDate="2013-07-30T17:51:15.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot speak towards any product printed and packaged for general consumption (ie. booster boxes, theme decks, special sets such as Planeshift or Commander, and Fat Packs, among others), but Wizards &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; list redemption guarantee dates for sets redeemable from Magic: the Gathering Online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Digital/MagicOnline.aspx?x=mtg/digital/magiconline/calendar#magiconlineproductreleaseredemptionschedule&quot;&gt;Magic Online Product Release &amp;amp; Redemption Schedule&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;As a general rule, Magic Online sets will be available for redemption roughly one month after they are released. If a redeemable set runs out of stock before its Redemption Guarantee Date, the set will be reprinted. After a redeemable set's Redemption Guaranteed Date has passed, such set will be available while supplies last or until its Cutoff Date, whichever comes first. All cutoff times are 9:00 AM.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, it appears that Wizards will print new product at least until approximately one month after a set rotates out of the Standard Format (if the initial print run is not sufficient to meet the Magic: Online redemption demand.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3638" LastEditorUserId="3638" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T18:05:48.043" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T18:05:48.043" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-30T22:37:26.203" Score="17" ViewCount="29961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked and can't seem to find any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen many green cards and some artifacts that do this, but nothing in Red, Blue, Black or White.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; By &quot;Mana Ramp&quot; I mean a card that generates mana, or one that lets you play more than one land per turn.  The end result, for example, would be on turn 4, playing a white only deck, I could tap more than 4 mana.  (Normally you only get one land per turn so a max of 4 mana on turn 4.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2021-01-26T19:39:48.030" Title="Are there any non-green, non-artifact mana ramp cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12600" CreationDate="2013-07-30T22:58:22.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana ramp is definitely a very green thing; it's a natural effect for the color of life and growth (among other things). This is a great example of the color pie at work: there are just some things that not all the colors can do. But there are some cards outside green (and artifacts) that help produce mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other colors, mana producing abilities are often more conditional - maybe it's a one-time effect, or maybe you have to pay something else to get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20!%5BG%5D%20!%5BC%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22to%20your%20mana%20pool%22%5D%20%5Badd%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Gatherer search&lt;/a&gt; that'll find (hopefully) all the directly mana-producing options (along with some things that don't actually ramp, like ones that just turn one color into another). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20!%5BG%5D%20!%5BC%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22to%20your%20mana%20pool%22%5D%20%5Badd%5D&amp;amp;format=%7C%5B%22Standard%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;same search restricted to Standard&lt;/a&gt; only finds six cards, only three of which are repeatable: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Ghast&quot;&gt;Crypt Ghast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deranged%20Assistant&quot;&gt;Deranged Assistant&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Dark%20Realms&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Dark Realms&lt;/a&gt;. (Liliana isn't exactly speedy ramp, of course.) You could restrict to permanents if you don't want one-offs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to search directly, but there are also non-green nonartifact things which help put lands onto the battlefield. Here's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20!%5BG%5D%20!%5BC%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bland%5D%20%5B%22onto%20the%20battlefield%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a deliberately inclusive search&lt;/a&gt;; most of those are false positives, but there are a few cards in there that put lands onto the battlefield for you: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Braids%2C%20Conjurer%20Adept&quot;&gt;Braids, Conjurer Adept&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreamscape%20Artist&quot;&gt;Dreamscape Artist&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Firebrand%20Ranger&quot;&gt;Firebrand Ranger&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knight%20of%20the%20White%20Orchid&quot;&gt;Knight of the White Orchid&lt;/a&gt;, and so on. Again, they're more conditional - and this time, none of them are in standard. (And some of them are from Planar Chaos, where the colors were a bit wonky.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T23:05:44.110" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:05:44.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2013-07-30T23:10:52.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two players in the base game I would avoid the combination of Dinosaurs and Pirates. But truthfully in the two players game the problem isn't your deck is weak. It's that some combinations are really really strong. Such as Zombie, Aliens. With Aliens constantly throwing back your minions and the zombies more or less ensuring they never run out of Aliens it's a deadly combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's resolves in the 3+ player game because it's unwise to focus all of your attacks on a single person in a 3 player game. That relief will let you get some of your stronger minions out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience the Dinosaurs while strong were so ability-less that even when you get one out there's no ability to trigger, and the Pirates abilities tend to be unhelpful against the Aliens bouncing them back to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:10:52.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6699" CreationDate="2013-07-30T23:17:38.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board Game Geek has a listing of the card's size and the various types of sleeves that will fit them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/102880/item/1981056#item1981056&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/102880/item/1981056#item1981056&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of Cards: 84&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mayday Sleeve Size: Magnum Gold 80 x 120 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swan Panasia Sleeve Size: SWN-045 (Dixit) 80 x 120 mm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:17:38.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2013-07-30T23:24:58.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with 6 players is that one of the losing conditions of Pandemic is running out of time (via empty &lt;em&gt;Player Card&lt;/em&gt; Deck). With more players that deck becomes used up faster. I wouldn't try six players without somehow enlarging the player deck. Perhaps if you buy another set of player cards and then add more &lt;em&gt;Infection&lt;/em&gt; cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:24:58.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12593" CreationDate="2013-07-30T23:38:03.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers have come up with good points. It's hard to say whether this is really a problem without seeing the rest of the game and how it plays. I think a &quot;slower&quot; early start is almost certainly not a bad thing. It's too easy decision-making in late game that most likely needs addressing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my contribution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You haven't said how players get cards in hand in the first place. If players are unable to play cards at the start, maybe don't give them many to start? Or conversely, perhaps you want these cards played and you need to give them more to start for more play possibilities, and have them not fill up as fast as game progresses in order to limit options. There's lots of randomness vs. strategy dials to tweak there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If decisions become too easy later, perhaps you need to add some &quot;hoser&quot; cards of some kind, where symbol tiles are changed or removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Although your description is vague, perhaps late game is easy because your symbol constraints are too easy. Are symbols evenly distributed or are there more rare ones? Perhaps a card could only be played if two of a particular symbol touch? Or three? You could have common cards with easy constraints, and rarer cards with harder constraints/rarer symbols.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You said you were hoping for there not to be every symbol &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These decisions will surely need lots of playtesting to see where the &quot;most fun&quot; mix of randomness, strategy, and pace of game intersect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Midgame is fine and at the end of every round, there are enough symbols on the board to play almost any card you have in your hand... which is not what I was hoping for when designing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An easy solution used in many board and card games is to set aside a randomly selected pool of &lt;em&gt;unrevealed&lt;/em&gt; &quot;dead&quot; tiles at the start of the game. (I'm presuming the tiles, as in Carcassonne, are hidden and selected randomly as the game progresses.) This limits the number of symbols available, and the knowledge of which cards in hand are now harder to play is unknown to the players. It also improves replayability since each game has a different pool of tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-07-30T23:45:42.603" LastActivityDate="2013-07-30T23:45:42.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12600" CreationDate="2013-07-31T00:44:38.167" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are, but they are purposefully few and far between.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana acceleration is considered to be in green's part of the &quot;color pie,&quot; with the exception of the occasional black card, and a little bit of a fast-mana theme in red (formerly black). Blue and white occasionally get ways to cheat on mana a bit, but only when they're tied into some other element of those colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5034/1910&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; has discussion tailored to Commander, which also applies pretty well to other casual and multiplayer decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In competitive terms, the most relevant cards are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Ritual%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; classic mana acceleration card, in black. It's still an influential card in Legacy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHigh%20Tide%5d&quot;&gt;High Tide&lt;/a&gt; features in Legacy blue decks. The trick with this is to take one &quot;big turn&quot; where you develop tons of mana by playing cards that untap your lands, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTime%20Spiral%5d&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCandelabra%20of%20Tawnos%5d&quot;&gt;Candelabra of Tawnos&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Modern, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDesperate%20Ritual%5d&quot;&gt;Desperate Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyretic%20Ritual%5d&quot;&gt;Pyretic Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSeething%20Song%5d&quot;&gt;Seething Song&lt;/a&gt; (this one's banned at the moment) &amp;mdash; along with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bManamorphose%5d&quot;&gt;Manamorphose&lt;/a&gt;, which actually gives you extra mana if you have a cost-reducer or copy-card in play &amp;mdash; are commonly played in storm decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In formats with fetchlands, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDeathrite%20Shaman%5d&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt; is a mana dork that doesn't actually require a green deck to work very effectively.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are a lot of colorless cards that are used to cast normal colored cards (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAncient%20Tomb%5d&quot;&gt;Ancient Tomb&lt;/a&gt;).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that oftentimes it's more effective to &quot;cheat&quot; on costs (using reanimation or hand-to-play cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShow%20and%20Tell%5d&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt;) than to accelerate your mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T05:58:06.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12608" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-07-31T01:14:32.167" Score="3" ViewCount="1716" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on my understanding of the rules, you can use a Passenger card to complete a route that a passenger is on.  So, if I have a route of red trains and someone places blue in my path I can use the passenger card when picking up tokens to complete my destination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the end of the game do I get to count that as a completed Destination ticket (even though there is a break in my trains)?&lt;/strong&gt; OR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the destination ONLY counted when the Passenger travels through and picks up Merchandise tokens?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5616" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-15T14:38:18.290" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T14:38:18.290" Title="In Ticket to Ride: Märklin, do Passenger cards allow you to complete Destination tickets?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12610" CreationDate="2013-07-31T02:34:54.213" Score="17" ViewCount="42973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am using the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Bairn&quot;&gt;Blood Bairn&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following activated ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice another creature: Blood Bairn gets +2/+2 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use my Blood Bairn in conjunction with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Festering%20Newt&quot;&gt;Festering Newt&lt;/a&gt;s, which allow me to give a target creature -1/-1 when it dies. The sacrifice allows it to die and lets me hurt a creature. If I have, say, 2 Festering Newts on the field, can I activate Blood Bairn's ability with both Festering Newts, allowing me to not only give -1/-1 to 2 target creatures but also giving Blood Bairn +4/+4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5617" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-07-31T17:12:49.527" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T17:12:49.527" Title="Can you activate an activated ability more than once per turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12609" CreationDate="2013-07-31T03:23:56.297" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, there is no restriction in the rules that prevents a player from paying the costs of an activated ability twice, to get the effect twice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Activated Ability&lt;/a&gt; is the only ability that can be activated. You may activate it whenever, and as many times as you like, as long as you have priority by paying the &lt;strong&gt;cost&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.1. Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.1a The activation cost is everything before the colon (:). An ability's activation cost must be paid by the player who is activating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the ability itself restricts its usage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.5b If an activated ability has a restriction on its use (for example, &amp;quot;Activate this ability only once each turn&amp;quot;), the restriction continues to apply to that object even if its controller changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T03:23:56.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12608" CreationDate="2013-07-31T04:32:40.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that &lt;strong&gt;passenger cards are not used to claim routes&lt;/strong&gt;. Although they are drawn like train cards, they are not played when claiming a route. They are played only when using the Move Passengers action to collect Merchandise tokens from cities. Each passenger card played allows you to move your passenger through one route belonging to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Excerpts from the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[When Moving a Passenger] The player may move any one of his Passengers that is already on the board. The Passenger must move from the city he currently occupies along any or all of the player's continuous routes, picking up one Merchandise Token from each city&#xA;  he moves. The player can only use the same route once per turn, i.e., a Passenger may&#xA;  not backtrack over the same route. The player does not pick up a Merchandise Token in the city in which the Passenger starts. At the end of the turn the Passenger that moves is removed from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the role of the passenger cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When moving a Passenger, the player can play any number of Passenger Cards and use one route belonging to an opponent for each Passenger Card played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(p. 3-4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://static.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tm_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passenger cards &lt;strong&gt;do not give you any ability to use opponents' routes for any other purpose&lt;/strong&gt;, including completing tickets at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T04:32:40.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12608" CreationDate="2013-07-31T05:25:01.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, using Passenger cards to move a Passenger between two cities on an opponents route does not allow you to add points for completed Destination Tickets at the end of the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tm_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book under&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Calculating Scores&lt;/strong&gt; (page 6) and &lt;strong&gt;Drawing Destination Ticket Cards&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players should then reveal all their Destination Tickets and add (or subtract) the value of their Destination Tickets still in hand, based on &lt;strong&gt;whether they successfully connected those cities together or not&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each Destination Ticket includes the name of two cities on the map and a Point Value. &lt;strong&gt;If a player successfully completes a series of routes that connect the two cities, he will add the amount of points indicated on the Destination Ticket to his point total at the end of the game.&lt;/strong&gt; If he does not successfully connect the two cities, he deducts the amount of points indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You connect cities by claiming routes (Page 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A route is a set of continuous colored spaces (in some instances, gray spaces) between two adjacent cities on the map. To claim a route, a player must play a set of Train Cards whose color and quantity match the color and number of spaces of the chosen route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passenger cards (10 total) are not used to claim routes, they are used during a Game Turn which a player chooses to 4. Move Passengers (page 3). The Passenger card allows you to move a Passenger through an opponents route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passenger Cards can be drawn like any other Train cards. When moving a Passenger, the player can play any number of Passenger Cards and &lt;strong&gt;use one route belonging to an opponent for each Passenger Card played&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-07-31T05:25:01.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12619" CreationDate="2013-07-31T15:07:56.350" Score="6" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Descent a few times with a few different players. Unfortunately players change, but we keep the XP and gold for the heroes that do play, and when a new player joins they are restricted to choosing only a hero that hasn't been picked yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I'm really not sure how to manage the XP/gold when either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new player joins halfway through the campaign (or whatever act they may be on).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Overlord player wants to actually play a hero (because as much as I like being the Overlord.....it's nice to be a hero too).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see only a couple of options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;New&quot; person picks a hero and starts with starting equipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of house rule. To me maybe this would be a new person starting with whatever the &quot;weakest&quot; person has earned gold/XP-wise?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really can't figure out a good way to do this. Having multiple campaigns with multiple sets of people would get really confusing, plus those who JUST played a certain act, wouldn't want to have to replay it. Plus, RP wise, new people join groups all the time so there is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've been doing is tracking XP/Gold per hero or Overlord, and not per player. So if someone new comes by and they want to play hero X, then they'd get all the benefits of that hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas for this conundrum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5613" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T02:49:36.357" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T07:36:37.493" Title="How can I persist XP and gold when my players change between games?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-01T06:46:20.527" Score="-1" ViewCount="3533" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if a player attacking you dies by triggered ability damage before blockers were declared and combat damage is dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1: Life 2: Declares attackers (2x 3dmg) to Player 2.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 2: Life 5: Has no blockers however casts an instant flashback triggering an Enchantment ability causing 2dmg to Player 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the creature combat damage negate or resolve? Does Player 2 win or do both die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5626" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T09:53:46.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T09:53:46.697" Title="In multiplayer MTG, what happens if a player attacking you dies before combat damage is dealt?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-08-01T16:33:44.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12617" CreationDate="2013-08-01T07:04:06.500" Score="5" ViewCount="44947" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, it says you need a road to build a new settlement (placement rules apply). If you have the resources available to build both at the same time, can this settlement be played wherever the player wants it to go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5627" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T09:51:03.107" LastActivityDate="2018-12-18T17:48:02.900" Title="Can you build a settlement anywhere if you have the resources for a settlement and a road?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12614" CreationDate="2013-08-01T07:07:01.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If and when a player leaves a multiplayer game, everything owned by that player leaves the game with him/her and no longer has any effect on the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4a When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature doesn't make it to the combat damage step, it won't deal combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.1. The combat phase has five steps, which proceed in order: beginning of combat, declare attackers, declare blockers, combat damage, and end of combat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that combat damage technically doesn't &quot;resolve&quot; because it doesn't go on the stack (it used to), all creatures deal their damage simultaneously in their respective damage steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T07:07:01.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12615" CreationDate="2013-08-01T07:11:39.440" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your first two settlements (placed during set-up) are special and can be placed in any valid position on the board, after that new settlements &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be connected by road to existing settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant parts of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under building roads (bottom of page 4) it says &quot;A new road must always connect to 1 of your existing roads, settlements, or cities.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under building settlements (top of page 5) it says &quot;Each of your settlements must&#xA;connect to at least 1 of your own roads.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can build as much as you like per turn, so you could build several road segments and a settlement in the same turn (as long as you have the resources).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastEditorUserId="2539" LastEditDate="2013-08-01T07:17:32.103" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T07:17:32.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12614" CreationDate="2013-08-01T08:06:36.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &#xA;Immediately after your two damage trigger resolves, before players have a chance to do more things, state based actions are checked: the game 'notices' that that player has zero or less life, which causes them to leave the game, which causes &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; they control (permanents, spells, triggers, what have you) to vanish. When the combat damage step rolls around, all their creatures won't be in play anymore and so they won't hit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T08:06:36.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12613" CreationDate="2013-08-01T17:06:50.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that Descent is really made for one-off games, and not for campaigning.  As much as anyone's tried to tack it on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If every game is a new game, and everyone always starts again at zero, then this problem just disappears entirely.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For campaign-style play, we just stick to classic pen-and-paper RPGs.  Works well.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-08-01T17:06:50.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2013-08-02T05:09:25.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;VASSAL offers a way to create on online version of a game easily. I was involved in play testing Crown of Roses using a VASSAL module. The map for Clash of Monarchs has been critised as being difficult to use and the reason provided for this was that most of the play testing was done online which had a much clearer map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5631" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T05:09:25.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12622" CreationDate="2013-08-02T08:51:45.957" Score="4" ViewCount="2729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am going to split this into players A and B to simplify my question;(placement rules applied)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has a road which is 7 in length and has the Longest Road tile,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B has a road which is 5 in length (second longest road),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B builds a settlement mid-way along Player A's road resulting in Player A now having two roads - a length of 4 and a length of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Player A surrender the Longest Road card as his previous longest road no longer exists? (and as a result Player B obtains this honour)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if (in the above example) Players B and C had a road less than 5, would the Longest Road card return to the bank? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5627" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T09:08:02.400" Title="If the longest road is interrupted and therefore reduced, does the player have to surrender the longest road card?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-08-06T18:23:04.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12621" CreationDate="2013-08-02T09:01:33.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes and Yes. In the rules it states that if the longest road is split, then you re-evaluate who has the longest road. If no-one qualifies (or it is now a tie) it is returned to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a settlement to split someone's longest road is a key tactic in Settlers, which can be prevented by the player building extra roads and/or settlements to protect the vulnerable spots, but that obviously slows down their road building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T09:08:02.400" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T09:08:02.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2013-08-02T12:23:12.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Donald X. Vaccarino, the designer of Dominion, tested it with a program he wrote himself. Later expansions were playtested in a private room of the Isotropic online Dominion server. He discusses it briefly &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=3489.msg67085#msg67085&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I did not know Doug prior to him making isotropic; Wei-Hwa knew him. Before isotropic, I used a DOS program I wrote in Pascal, cbtest. It didn't do the internet part, we handled that via irc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Doug is dougz, the creator of the now-unavailable &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominion.isotropic.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isotropic Dominion&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T12:23:12.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12625" CreationDate="2013-08-02T14:18:36.087" Score="5" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to MtG and I really want to go to Friday Night Magic, but I've never done a draft before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there online resources with good advice for what to pick and when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5633" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T14:52:46.827" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T20:15:21.617" Title="Where can I learn to draft online?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12624" CreationDate="2013-08-02T14:37:17.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/all-strategy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.channelfireball.com/all-strategy/&lt;/a&gt;. They have videos of expert player drafting and playing, which are a great (and fun) way to learn. Luis Scott-Vargas set reviews on the same site are also great (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/magic-2014-set-review-artifacts-and-lands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/magic-2014-set-review-artifacts-and-lands/&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T14:37:17.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12624" CreationDate="2013-08-02T15:41:15.247" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really an answer to your question, but useful information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of draft simulators online. You can try out drafting strategies and see what kind of cards you end up with, giving you some insight on whether or not that strategy will actually work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://draft.bestiaire.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://draft.bestiaire.org/&lt;/a&gt; (no sign up, draft against computers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-draft-simulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://tappedout.net/mtg-draft-simulator/&lt;/a&gt; (requires sign up, but you can draft against other humans)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T15:41:15.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12629" CreationDate="2013-08-02T18:38:44.210" Score="5" ViewCount="225" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Memoir '44&lt;/strong&gt; the rules specify that Tanks can move one extra hex (4 hexes instead of 3) if they remain on road hexes for their entire move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: What effect does this have on their ability to fire? Can tanks that remain on, and move only along, road hexes move 4 hexes and still fire, or are they limited to only 3 hexes of movement if they wish to fire? My son and I have been unable to resolve this from the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For non-Memoir '44 players: For other units (ie infantry) the ability to fire after movement is determined by the extent of movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-08-02T19:20:46.093" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T23:02:26.770" Title="Road movement by tanks in Memoir '44" Tags="|memoir-44|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2013-08-02T19:02:21.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and a friend came up with a solution last night on how to play a 2-person catan game that actually worked really well and very close to the original rules.&#xA;Rules: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Instead of rolling both dice to see who goes first we both only roll one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Instead of placing (2) settlements to begin with, we each start with (3) to fill the board more off the start. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The order we found to lay them down fairly we found worked best and most closely resembled the original was player 1 chooses 1-4-5 while player 2 gets 2-3-6 for choices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players now collect up to (9) cards (depending on settlement placement) and begin the game. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because both players are starting with now (9) cards, if a 7 is rolled on either players first roll it has no effect and that player may choose the card of their choice from the bank. Afterward 7's and the knight card work as normal. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We raised the Victory point cap to 12 instead of 10 since it really did need it for both players to have the time to compete.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trading, we actually found that we still needed each other to trade with and after 3 games were both mutually reliant, and it felt still similar to a 3-4 person game but with less options. Starting with more initial hexes also helps to receive the necessary resources to not be so stranded.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something we considered was lengthening the initial longest road requirements to 7 roads.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Also something we've discussed including in this and larger group scenarios is implementing &quot;Largest Port trader&quot; that once you acquire (3) coastal ports you receive an additional 2 VP's.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the rules remain essentially unchanged and just mildly modified only for the game's beginning. All three games we played were extremely close and we considered the experiment to be a success. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found it worked best though when the desert was placed away from the coast to break up the center island more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5634" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T20:32:50.867" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T20:32:50.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12627" CreationDate="2013-08-02T23:02:26.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Armor can move 4 hexes and still battle at full strength.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From p. 5 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/img/mm_terrain_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Terrain Pack rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Armor may move 4 hexes on a road and still battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/img/mm_rules_part1_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;main rulebook&lt;/a&gt; makes it clear that Armor's battle strength is unaffected by its movement (p. 9):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Armor] always combats at 3 dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P. 15-16 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/dow-assets/www/M44_FAQ_v2_Lowres.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; has a concise summary of the effects of Roads on all units, which might be of interest if you have questions about other units. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Armor - 4 hexes and battle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-08-02T23:02:26.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12631" CreationDate="2013-08-03T10:59:43.013" Score="21" ViewCount="9816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding increasing blinds in Texas Hold-em poker. I am developing a poker website. During tournaments players are not allowed to buy chips. Each player starts with 1000 chips to play. We always keep all amounts on the table (player pot, player bet, table pot etc.), in multiples of the smallest denomination, i.e. small blind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when blinds are increasing automatically, what should I do in the case when a player is left with a chip smaller than the small blind? Should that player be able to continue the game, or are they busted immediately (and lose the tournament)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example : In a tournament of four players, all players begin with 1000 chips to play. After some time, one of the four players remains with 10 chips in the pot, and blinds reach to 500/1000 (SM/BB). What should I do with that player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5636" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-08-08T21:18:10.137" LastActivityDate="2017-01-15T17:27:28.487" Title="In Poker, what happens if paying a blind puts a player all-in?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12630" CreationDate="2013-08-03T14:14:12.713" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player cannot cover a blind, &lt;strong&gt;that player is all-in and the bets are handled just as if that player had gone all-in on an ordinary bet.&lt;/strong&gt; The main pot gets an amount of money from each player who bets equal to the all-in player's stake. Any further betting goes into a side pot, which the all-in player is ineligible to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T14:14:12.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12633" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-03T20:25:26.657" Score="7" ViewCount="5686" Body="&lt;p&gt;In duplicate bridge, what is the penalty for someone bidding out of turn?  Specifically, opening the bid by accident while sitting to the right of the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5638" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T03:47:10.153" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T03:47:10.153" Title="What is the penalty for bidding out of turn?" Tags="|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12635" CreationDate="2013-08-03T22:21:33.333" Score="10" ViewCount="6370" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorncaster%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt;s, does their effect stack? That is, do the other slivers I have get the &amp;quot;1 damage&amp;quot; ability twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, why? What rule makes it so they can't have the ability twice?  If I had a different card with same ability would they get it twice? What if the different card had a slightly different wording? Or caused 2 damage instead of 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what situations would a creature be allowed to have two copies of the same ability (if ever)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T22:44:21.090" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T01:09:59.253" Title="Can multiple Thorncaster Slivers grant multiple copies of the same ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12634" CreationDate="2013-08-03T22:39:28.083" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they will have two copies of the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.2c An object may have multiple abilities. If the object is represented by a card, then aside from certain defined abilities that&#xA;  may be strung together on a single line (see rule 702, “Keyword&#xA;  Abilities”), each paragraph break in a card’s text marks a separate&#xA;  ability. If the object is not represented by a card, the effect that&#xA;  created it may have given it multiple abilities. An object may also be&#xA;  granted additional abilities by a spell or ability. &lt;strong&gt;If an object has&#xA;  multiple instances of the same ability, each instance functions&#xA;  independently&lt;/strong&gt;. This may or may not produce more effects than a single&#xA;  instance; refer to the specific ability for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two copies of the triggered ability will mean two damage whenever a sliver attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T22:39:28.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12634" CreationDate="2013-08-03T23:01:59.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you get two instances of the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also reference the _Gatherer page for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorncaster%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt; which has official rulings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you control multiple Thorncaster Slivers and a Sliver you control attacks, each ability will trigger separately.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you change the creature type of a Sliver you control so it’s no longer a Sliver, it will no longer be affected by its own ability. Its ability will continue to affect other Sliver creatures you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities that Slivers grant, as well as power/toughness boosts, are cumulative. However, for some abilities, like flying, having more than one instance of the ability doesn’t provide any additional benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-08-03T23:01:59.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12643" CreationDate="2013-08-04T04:35:18.920" Score="6" ViewCount="2393" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just played Mice and Mystics for the first time and we had a few issues with spawning monsters with encounters. Specifically, we had two monsters spawned my encounters that we were not 100% sure what they were. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Centipede&quot; had no initiative card, so we assumed that the &quot;Cave Centipede&quot; initiative card was correct (and we couldn't find any references to Cave Centipedes anywhere after a quick search)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Greedy Roach&quot; had no initiative card, so we assumed that the &quot;Roach&quot; initiative card was correct (but &quot;Roach&quot; is also referenced on encounter cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these substitutions correct, or are we missing initiative cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2013-08-04T15:03:49.017" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T05:23:26.437" Title="What are &quot;Centipede&quot; and &quot;Greedy Roach&quot;?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12633" CreationDate="2013-08-04T17:39:48.120" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a summary of the relevant &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; that @Pieter Geerkens linked to. I am leaving out some of the more sophisticated points, for example, the fact that an artificial/conventional pass call is treated as a bid for the purposes of these rules. The guiding principle is not to punish the out-of-turn bidder, but to make it impossible for the offending team to benefit from the information improperly exchanged. That's why many of them refer to Law 23, which allows a TD to further adjust the score if it is determined that the offending team gained an advantage by the improper call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, a bid on LHO's turn is treated as a change in call, which is treated separately. In practice this is a difficult mistake to make--you don't usually make two bids in immediate succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pass out of Turn&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If no player has bid yet, offender must pass at next opportunity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After any player has bid, offender must pass at next opportunity; in addition, if offender passes at his partner's turn to call, offender's partner may not double or redouble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bid out of Turn&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If offender bids on RHO's turn, and RHO passes, offender must make the same bid, but there is no other penalty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If offender bids on RHO's turn, and RHO does not pass, offender may make any call. If the call is the same &quot;denomination&quot; as the original call (same suit or NT), offender's partner must pass at next opportunity. If the call is any other denomination, offender's partner must pass through the entire auction, and if offender's team defends, lead restrictions will go into effect (more on that in a bit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To explain the differences above: If partner bids 1C, and I get excited and bid to 2C before RHO passes, no harm done. If partner bids 1C, and I hasten and bid 2C, and RHO says, wait! I wanted to bid 2H, and I say OK, fine, 3C, that's not a very big deal. But if I say, wait, based on opponent's 2H bid, I want to bid diamonds instead... that conveys a huge amount of information about my hand to my partner, and allowing partner to continue to bid would be unfair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If offender bids on partner's turn, partner must pass through the entire auction, and lead restrictions may apply here as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lead restrictions: If a specific suit is named, declarer can require the offender's partner to either lead, or not lead, that suit at the player's first opportunity. A prohibition to lead the suit lasts as long as that player keeps the lead. If no specific suit is named, the declarer can prohibit offender's partner from leading any one suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Double / Redouble out of Turn&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In all cases, opponents have the choice to allow the double or redouble to stand. In this case, there is no penalty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If offender doubles on partner's turn, partner must pass through the auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If offender doubles on RHO's turn, and RHO passes, the offender must make the same double or redouble, and offender's partner must pass at the next opportunity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If offender doubles on RHO's turn, and RHO does not pass, the offender may make any bid, but offender's partner must pass through the auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-08-04T17:39:48.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12633" CreationDate="2013-08-04T17:42:33.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the relevant rules for the various scenarios under your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LAW 30 - PASS OUT OF ROTATION&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;When a player has passed out of rotation and the call&#xA;is canceled, the option in Law 29A not having been&#xA;exercised, the following provisions apply (if the pass is&#xA;artificial, see C below):&#xA;A. Before Any Player Has Bid&#xA;When a player has passed out of rotation before any&#xA;player has bid, the offender must pass when next it&#xA;is his turn to call and Law 23 may apply.&#xA;...&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LAW 31 - BID OUT OF ROTATION  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;When a player has bid out of rotation, has passed artificially&#xA;or has passed partner’s artificial call (see Law&#xA;30C) and the call is canceled, the option in Law 29A not&#xA;having been exercised, the following provisions apply:&#xA;A. RHO’s Turn&#xA;When the offender has called at his RHO’s turn to&#xA;call, then:&#xA;1. if that opponent passes, offender must repeat the&#xA;call out of rotation. When that call is legal there&#xA;is no rectification.&#xA;2. if that opponent makes a legal* bid, double or redouble,&#xA;offender may make any legal call. When&#xA;this call&#xA;(a) repeats the denomination of his bid out of&#xA;rotation, offender’s partner must pass when&#xA;next it is his turn to call (see Law 23).&#xA;(b) does not repeat the denomination of his bid&#xA;out of rotation, or if the call out of rotation&#xA;was an artificial pass or a pass of partner’s&#xA;artificial call, the lead restrictions in Law 26&#xA;may apply, and offender’s partner must pass&#xA;whenever it is his turn to call (see Law 23).&#xA;....&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LAW 32 - DOUBLE OR REDOUBLE OUT OF ROTATION&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;A double or redouble out of rotation may be accepted&#xA;at the option of the opponent next in rotation (see Law&#xA;29A), except that an inadmissible double or redouble&#xA;may never be accepted. If offender’s LHO nevertheless&#xA;calls, see Law 36. If the call out of rotation is not accepted,&#xA;it is canceled, the lead restriction in Law 26B&#xA;may apply and:&#xA;...&#xA;B. Made at RHO’s Turn to Call&#xA;If a double or redouble out of rotation has been&#xA;made when it was the offender’s RHO’s turn to call,&#xA;then:&#xA;1. if offender’s RHO passes, offender must repeat&#xA;his out-of-rotation double or redouble and there&#xA;is no rectification unless the double or redouble&#xA;is inadmissible, in which case Law 36 applies.&#xA;2. if offender’s RHO bids, doubles or redoubles, the&#xA;offender may in turn make any legal call, but offender’s&#xA;partner must pass whenever it is his turn&#xA;to call. See Law 23 if the pass damages the nonoffending&#xA;side.&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LAW 23 - AWARENESS OF POTENTIAL DAMAGE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;Whenever, in the opinion of the Director, an offender&#xA;could have been aware at the time of his irregularity&#xA;that this could well damage the non-offending side, the&#xA;Director shall require the auction and play to continue&#xA;(if not completed). When the play has been completed,&#xA;the Director awards an adjusted score if he considers&#xA;the offending side has gained an advantage through the&#xA;irregularity*.&#xA;* As, for example, by partner’s enforced pass.&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T23:19:19.770" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T23:19:19.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T01:38:34.950" Score="14" ViewCount="5215" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group has recently started playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/72125/eclipse&quot;&gt;Eclipse&lt;/a&gt; (without any expansions), however we have been having trouble with Plasma Missiles. More specifically, simple &quot;nothing but plasma missiles and possibly a computer&quot; ship designs have been completely dominating combat, which is making the ship-building aspects of Eclipse somewhat uninteresting in the late game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that the main problem is just that we haven't found a suitable counter yet, and that if we found a way to counter these designs they would become less common (or we would at least have some more interesting battles), however at the moment our group is yet to come up with an effective way of fighting these ships other than &quot;more plasma canons with higher initiative&quot; (so your plasma canons fire first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If another player starts building a lot of Plasma Canons, what should I research / build / upgrade in order to counter them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2539" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T02:47:51.440" Title="How can I counter Plasma Missiles?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12644" CreationDate="2013-08-05T03:05:39.450" Score="5" ViewCount="1506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was guessing, since you actually target things instead of just dealing damage (similar to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellrider&quot;&gt;Hellrider&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorncaster%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered abilities would actually go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came up in a separate game this past Friday when the Sliver deck attacked with two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Predatory%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Predatory Sliver&lt;/a&gt;s, one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorncaster%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt;, and two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Manaweft%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Manaweft Sliver&lt;/a&gt;s while his opponent had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Artist&quot;&gt;Blood Artist&lt;/a&gt; as well as some 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this even came up was because, if the triggers went on the stack, you could target things so they resolve in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Predatory Sliver targets Blood Artist, killing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Predatory Sliver targets the 2/2, dealing one damage to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thorncaster Sliver targets the 2/2, killing it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and 5. Both Manaweft Slivers target the player, dealing one damage each to him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T19:49:45.667" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T19:49:45.667" Title="Do Thorncaster Sliver's triggered abilities go on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12641" CreationDate="2013-08-05T03:59:54.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; go on the stack. It has nothing to do with what the ability is, whether it deals damage or targets things or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=12458&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;makes Squirrel tokens&lt;/a&gt;. If you see the magic words &amp;quot;when&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;whenever&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;at&amp;quot;, you've got a triggered ability and it goes on the stack when it's triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obligatory comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.1b An ability can be an activated or triggered ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3c Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&amp;quot; and include (and usually begin with) the word &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at.&amp;quot; Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it's countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T03:59:54.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12637" CreationDate="2013-08-05T05:23:26.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, those are the correct Inititive cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook (page 15, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmrulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;17 of the PDF&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Greedy Roaches&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some encounters include ’greedy roaches‘. &lt;strong&gt;Greedy roaches use the same initiative card as normal roaches&lt;/strong&gt;. When greedy roaches are placed on the board, all roaches in play become greedy roaches. When a greedy roach steals a cheese from a mouse, that cheese is placed on the minion cheese wheel on the story control board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/23005/jerry-hawthorne&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jerry Hawthorne&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/games/mice-and-mystics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mice and Mystics'&lt;/a&gt; game designer, said in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/10375292#10375292&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread to the question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: When you fill the cheese wheel and a surge occurs, if the surge on the encounter card is a Centipede, which initiative card do you use? There doesn't seem to be a 'normal' centipede card - and there are two to choose from. Which one is used? They both appear to be 'named' centipedes with different special abilities and stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: &lt;strong&gt;Use the Cave Centipede card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T05:23:26.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12641" CreationDate="2013-08-05T07:58:07.563" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities always use the stack. That includes &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorncaster%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt;'s and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellrider&quot;&gt;Hellrider&lt;/a&gt;'s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3c Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&amp;quot; and include (and usually begin with) the word &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at.&amp;quot; Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it's countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You attack with five slivers. Five instances of Thorncaster Sliver's ability triggers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place the abilities on the stack in the order of your choice: (Best order used)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place PS#1's ability on the stack targeting the 2/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place PS#2's ability on the stack targeting the 2/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place TS's ability on the stack targeting the Blood Artist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place MS#1's ability on the stack targeting your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place MS#2's ability on the stack targeting your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MS#2's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MS#1's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TS's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to the Blood Artist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Blood Artist dies. Blood Artist's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent places Blood Artist's ability on the stack targeting you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blood Artist's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You lose one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gains one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PS#2's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to the 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PS#2's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to the 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2/2 dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Move on the Declare Blockers]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Blood Artist and the 2/2 died.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent's life went down 2, then went up 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your life went down 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T07:58:07.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12640" CreationDate="2013-08-05T12:30:18.590" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the base Eclipse game, there is no hard counter to Plasma Missiles. However, there are tactics that work well against Plasma Missile-focused ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cutting off the retreat of missile fleets can be devastating, since they often work best by unleashing their missiles to deal crippling damage and then retreating to fire again the next round. A missile-only fleet with its retreat cut off will be annihilated by even a single surviving ship with a single cannon. (And sending another ship with beam weapons to reduce this threat also reduces the potency of the missile fleet, which is what you want.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speaking of surviving missile fleets, Improved Hulls are a good way to build a fleet to do so, combined with enough Shields to neutralize the opponent's Computers. Diplomacy will be important because this fleet will be vulnerable to a more traditional fleet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many missile fleets will be Interceptor-based, since those small ships allow you to deploy more raw missiles for cheaper. You can take advantage of this by using the large number of Move actions this fleet will require to outmaneuver the interceptor fleet. If the missiles are scary enough, nobody will mind if you slip a cruiser past and neutron bomb that faction's planets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you have a chance to play with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/125898/eclipse-rise-of-the-ancients&quot;&gt;Rise of the Ancients expansion&lt;/a&gt;, it contains two rare technologies that act as hard counters to Plasma Missiles: the Distortion Field, which grants a -2 to all missiles that attack your ships, and Point Defense, which gives your cannons a free attack to shoot down incoming missiles. Neither of these technologies requires a component--all your ships get them for free. Rise of the Ancients also features another soft counter in the form of Flux Missiles, which are 1-power missiles that also provide an initiative bonus. These are powerful against the traditional fragile Plasma Missile fleets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T12:30:18.590" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-05T14:18:45.293" Score="3" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use to play diplomacy with my work mates, the good thing of this game is that we can play with long turns (36 hours) so anyone can play whenever they can, and the turn is resolved when the time passes or when everybody has declared their movements. We use &lt;a href=&quot;http://webdiplomacy.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://webdiplomacy.net/&lt;/a&gt; to manage the movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bad thing of diplomacy is that the usual thing is that around mid-game some players are destroyed and they stop playing, having to wait till the end of the game (what can mean even weeks) to start playing again in a new game. Playing more than one game in parallel is not an option, we tried that and is a bit crazy, and requires much more time every day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any game with similar turn-based rules but where the players can keep playing along the whole game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UPDATE:&lt;/strong&gt; After some discussion, more explicit requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All turns are played asynchronously (each player can choose all&#xA;their actions for the turn at any time).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All actions of each turn are played simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players can play along the whole game (no player elimination).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the turn time some type of negotiation is encouraged between players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Web version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game for more than 4 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, Diplomacy would fit with all requirements except the third one, and also with the nices to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5643" LastEditorUserId="5643" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T09:26:07.777" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T09:26:07.777" Title="Is there any &quot;simultaneous-turn&quot; based game where all players play till the end of the game?" Tags="|recommendations|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2013-08-09T12:25:16.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12646" CreationDate="2013-08-05T14:42:41.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/103343/a-game-of-thrones-the-board-game-second-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/a&gt; is such a game. While a complete elimination is possible, the game plays in 10 rounds, and it is very difficult to achieve a complete elimination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people say the game plays similarly to Diplomacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To begin the game, each player receives an army of Footman, Knight, Siege Engine, and Ship units, as well as a set of Order tokens and other necessary components. Each player also receives a deck of unique House Cards, which are used as leaders in battles against rival Houses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each round in the game is made up of three phases: the Westeros Phase, the Planning Phase, and the Action Phase. The Westeros Phase represents special events and day-to-day activities in Westeros. There are three different Westeros Decks, and each denotes a different global action, potentially affecting all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Planning Phase is perhaps the most important. Here you secretly assign orders to all of your units by placing one order token face down on each area you control that contains at least one unit (Knight, Footman, Ship, or Siege Engine). This portion of the game emphasizes diplomacy and deduction. Can you trust the alliance that you made? Will you betray your ally and march upon him? Players may make promises to each other (for aid or peace, for example), but these promises are never binding. The result is tense and compelling negotiations, often ending in backstabbing worthy of Westeros!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the Action Phase, the orders are resolved and battle is entered! When armies meet in combat, they secretly choose one of their House cards to add strength to the battle. Finally, the Houses can consolidate their power in the areas they control and use that power in future turns to influence their position in the court of the Iron Throne and to stand against the wildling Hordes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T14:42:41.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12646" CreationDate="2013-08-05T17:08:35.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt; might fit the bill, though the game is so different from Diplomacy that it may not be what you have in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players simultaneously secretly choose (then reveal) the phases for a given turn. Each player simultaneously plays out each phase of that turn. Players cannot be eliminated from the game, but it is possible to fall so far behind that winning becomes pretty much impossible. However, playing a game takes around 30 minutes so being far behind in the last few minutes of a game isn't that big a deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-08-05T18:26:09.750" LastActivityDate="2013-08-05T18:26:09.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-06T00:07:53.510" Score="4" ViewCount="3403" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a Thorncaster that has deathtouch, does its &quot;1 damage to target creature or player&quot; have deathtouch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At first I thought no.  Because the rules say &quot;Combat Damage&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I was reading on wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Deathtouch and one of the &quot;Rulings&quot; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rule that causes creatures dealt damage by a source with&#xA;  deathtouch to be destroyed applies to any damage, not just combat&#xA;  damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if these &quot;Rulings&quot; that are listed on that site are official.  I can't imagine them making them up, but I want to know for sure before I pursue deathtouching silvers with multiple Thorncast abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because if this is true, then a few Slivers with Deathtouch and a Thorncaster out can clean out most blockers...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, does anyone know where I can access the &quot;Official&quot; rulings for deathtouch?  (Something I could show a judge to prove that it is allowed.)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T19:54:02.197" Title="Can a Thorncaster Sliver's ability have deathtouch?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12650" CreationDate="2013-08-06T00:55:37.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thorncaster Sliver's ability works with deathtouch. (The ability doesn't &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; deathtouch; the Sliver has deathtouch.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can go have a look directly in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;the comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; if you like - though generally (and in that case), wiki.mtgsalvation.com has copied the relevant part of the comp rules into the articles. As it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.2c A creature with toughness greater than 0 that's been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked is destroyed as a state-based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say &quot;combat damage&quot; in that rule, just &quot;damage&quot; - so &lt;strong&gt;any sort of damage dealt by a creature with deathtouch to another creature causes that creature to be destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;. This is all you should need to convince someone, especially a judge, who ought to be familiar with the rules in the first place. So yes, the combination of a pinging ability like Thorncaster's with deathtouch works how you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need a reminder, it's right there on the card in the reminder text, at least in core sets: &quot;(Any amount of damage this deals to a creature is enough to destroy it.)&quot; Reminder text isn't actually official rules, but they would certainly have written &quot;combat damage&quot; there if it's what they meant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(You say &quot;the rules say combat damage&quot; - perhaps referring to 702.2b? But that's talking about the definition of lethal damage in the context of deathtouch, which matters when you're assigning damage to multiple blockers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings on those wiki pages aren't official per se, but I would expect they're generally correct, and many are probably copied from rulings on cards on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;. Sometimes you'll find the same set of rulings copied onto many cards with the same keyword/ability, but I don't think that ever got done with deathtouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-08-06T01:38:20.893" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T01:38:20.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12659" CreationDate="2013-08-06T09:56:30.940" Score="29" ViewCount="42373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a relatively new player to Magic: the Gathering. I was reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rules.html&quot;&gt;the expanded rules&lt;/a&gt; to try to understand exactly when it's okay to cast instants (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rtr/en/31.html&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;) and use some abilities (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m14/en/141.html&quot;&gt;Goblin Diplomats&lt;/a&gt; should be tappable sometime during other peoples' turns), but I don't seem to be making much progress: as I come to understand some things, others make less sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My confusion is boundless&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance: to cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/304-instants.html&quot;&gt;Instants&lt;/a&gt; one needs priority. Spells go on the stack, and priority gets passed at some points (I have no idea when), and effects on the stack are resolved when both players have passed priority. But when is that? I can't find any mention of when the other player gets the priority to cast an instant, except on their own turn. Furthermore, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/500/~/magic%3a-the-gathering%3a-phases-and-steps-in-a-turn&quot;&gt;The Complete Turn&lt;/a&gt; states that during the Main Phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;505.4. Second, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities. The active player may play a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So players (plural) may cast spells, but only the active player has priority, so only the active player can cast an instant. The turn rules, and the rules on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/601-casting-spells.html#rule-601&quot;&gt;Casting Spells&lt;/a&gt;, never mention any point at which the other player gets priority, so when can they possibly Cancel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, you can only cast a spell when the stack is empty, so the entire stack must be able to be resolved in your turn at some point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;I need an explanation!&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could go on a bit more. There is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rtr/en/153.html&quot;&gt;Counterflux&lt;/a&gt; which can be overloaded to &quot;Counter each spell you don't control&quot;, which seems like it could only possibly work with an understanding of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could someone explain, in simple English:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When can Instants be cast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When can tap abilities be used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do Instants and abilities have to do with the Stack and Priority?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-11-28T15:39:07.043" LastActivityDate="2021-12-01T19:35:56.790" Title="In plain English, how does casting spells and using creature abilities work with the stack and priority?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12652" CreationDate="2013-08-06T10:54:03.483" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the answer to this question lies in the understanding of the phases of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there are a number of phases and steps that a turn goes through, here is a brief overview:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untap step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upkeep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Main Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat phase (has many sub steps, skipped for understanding)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second main phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is not an exhaustive list, but it gives you enough understanding to get your head around what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whoever's turn it is, that player is the &lt;strong&gt;Active Player&lt;/strong&gt;. The other player(s) are &lt;strong&gt;Non-Active Players&lt;/strong&gt;. This terminology will help with explaining things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best rule of thumb is &amp;quot;The &lt;strong&gt;active player&lt;/strong&gt; has priority right now.&amp;quot; 90% of the game this will be true. and during this time you can't do anything. To clarify a little, &lt;strong&gt;Whenever a new phase or step begins, the active player has priority&lt;/strong&gt;. Think of it this way, the active player moves into their main phase, they have lands to play and spells (including creatures) to cast, and this is where that process all starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next thing to understand is how the stack works. Again, a good rule of thumb is &amp;quot;if something happens, it usually uses the stack&amp;quot;. For example, casting a creature uses the stack, activating &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Olivia%20Voldaren&quot;&gt;Olivia Voldaren&lt;/a&gt;'s ability uses the stack. Casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; uses the stack, so does it's enter the battlefield trigger (there are numerous answers about these for further information) essentially, anything that doesn't directly generate mana uses the stack. I say directly, because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scalding%20Tarn&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt;'s ability will get you mana after it resolves, but it does not generate mana and &lt;strong&gt;DOES use the stack&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what happens with the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Someone puts something onto the stack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That player gets priority and could cast additional spells if they wish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After that player passes priority, each subsequent player gets priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After all players pass priority, the object on the stack resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player has priority with something on the stack, they can cast instants (or spells with flash)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if someone chooses to cast something with something else on the stack, then the whole process repeats for &lt;strong&gt;THAT ITEM&lt;/strong&gt; until it has resolved, and then steps 2-4 are repeated for the &lt;strong&gt;Original item&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;let's look at an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt; is in his main phase, he casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt;. Oh no! &lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt; is wisely playing islands, and with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; in hand, wants to tap 2 of them to make sure &lt;strong&gt;Albert's&lt;/strong&gt; day is ruined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how this looks on the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;  1. &lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt; casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt; Goes onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;     2. &lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt; wants to do nothing and implicitly (by sitting there doing nothing)&#xA;passes priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;     3. &lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt; gains priority and responds with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;        4. &lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt; gains priority and implicitly passes by doing nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;        5. &lt;strong&gt;Albert gains priority&lt;/strong&gt; and, looking smug, says &amp;quot;In response&amp;quot; and slaps his own&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; onto the table. Poor &lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uh oh, things are getting complicated now! Here's a look at the stack&#xA;right now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt;'s Counterspell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt;'s Counterspell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt;'s &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;        6. &lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt; gains priority again, and again silently does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;        7. &lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt; doesn't have anything else to do so she disappointedly says &amp;quot;Resolves.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;     8. &lt;strong&gt;Albert's counterspell resolves&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;     9. &lt;strong&gt;Nancy's&lt;/strong&gt; counterspell is removed from the stack, so we skip back down to just&#xA;looking at &lt;strong&gt;Albert's&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;  10. Crossing his fingers, &lt;strong&gt;Albert&lt;/strong&gt; passes priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;  11. Grumpily, &lt;strong&gt;Nancy&lt;/strong&gt; says &amp;quot;Resolves.&amp;quot; She has no more answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;  12. &lt;strong&gt;Albert's&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt; resolves. He cackles maniacally as he&#xA;draws 3 additional cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This demonstrates how things work with the stack. This passing of priority happens everywhere. If Albert wants to go to the combat phase, he passes priority and Nancy might do something in his main phase. If Albert wants to end his turn, Nancy gets an opportunity to cast some spells before her turn starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hopefully this has helped understand the stack, in answer to your bullet points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instants can be cast at any point where you have priority, all required targets and no restrictions prevent you casting them (e.g. you can't cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; with no creatures on the battlefield, and you can't cast anything after &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Silence&quot;&gt;Silence&lt;/a&gt; resolves).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap abilities can be used any time you can cast an instant, excepting abilities that state otherwise (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birthing%20Pod&quot;&gt;Birthing Pod&lt;/a&gt;'s). Remember that creature have &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; (creatures that you haven't controlled since the beginning of your turn may not activate abilities with the Tap or Untap symbol unless they have haste).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instants and abilities are put onto the stack to resolve, and can only be placed there by the player who has priority. Hopefully the above has explained when this happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most of the time, priority passing happens fluidly and implicitly. As a result, usually it is enough to know that &amp;quot;in response&amp;quot; means that the spell is still on the stack, and you get to do things if you want at the end of each part of the turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an interesting situation with how the stacks and priority work to show how you can't do whatever you want, whenever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alberta&lt;/strong&gt; casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt;, a powerhouse of a card against &lt;strong&gt;Norman's&lt;/strong&gt; deck, and passes priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Norman&lt;/strong&gt; has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; in hand and wants to use it to stop the spell being flashed back and clear the other copies away to limit the damage, but the spell is on the stack so he cant exile it yet, he passes priority and the spell resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Norman&lt;/strong&gt; wants to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt;, but since the spell resolved, priority reverts to &lt;strong&gt;Alberta&lt;/strong&gt;. He has to wait until Alberta moves to a different phase or casts some other spell to get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alberta&lt;/strong&gt; gets greedy and fancies 2 more tokens, she flashes back &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt; straight away. Poor &lt;strong&gt;Norman's&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; is now a dead card. The Lingering Souls is on the stack and will then be exiled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are times where priority has a massive impact, and the above is one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T12:12:16.210" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T12:12:16.210" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12652" CreationDate="2013-08-06T11:07:03.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will not answer any of your (somewhat) specific questions, as I feel they would not clear up much of the confusion you seem to be feeling. Instead let me give some general advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This document is designed for people who've moved beyond the basics of the Magic: The Gathering(R) game. If you're a beginning Magic(TM) player, you'll probably find these rules intimidating. They're intended to be the ultimate authority for the game, and you won't usually need to refer to them except in specific cases or during competitive games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the first line of the expanded rules that you linked to, and you should not ignore it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the Comprehensive Rules is a terrible way of learning the basics of the game. Absolutely dreadful. I would have given up on the game long before I've played my first match if I first had to read and understand that brick, even though it was smaller back then. It's like studying quantum chemistry in order to cook a pack of instant noodles. I cannot stress this enough: Don't read the CompRules to learn the game. Only open the CompRules if you have a very specific question and are already familiar with the basic rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead you have 2 much better options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Find a group of friendly, experienced players who are willing to play casual games with you, who can explain the basics, point out your mistakes, and let you take back moves, maybe even play with open hands. Or, if you feel more comfortable reading, read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_Rulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic rules&lt;/a&gt; by WotC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's really all there is to say. Don't get ahead of yourself, it will only frustrate you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T11:07:03.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12657" CreationDate="2013-08-06T17:31:52.710" Score="0" ViewCount="1353" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have 5 slivers and one of them is a Thorncaster, will I need to assign the &quot;1 damage to target creature or player&quot; before or after my opponent declares blockers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it is as I attack, but I would like it to be after blockers are assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T17:02:49.843" Title="Does the Thorncaster Sliver's ability damage have to be assigned before or after blockers are declared?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12656" CreationDate="2013-08-06T17:44:59.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with most abilities, you choose the targets as part of placing the ability on the stack. The damage is assigned and resolves before any blockers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will cite ikegami's answer from another question related to Thorncaster Sliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12644/3128&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12644/3128&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You attack with five slivers. Five instances of Thorncaster Sliver's ability triggers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You place the abilities on the stack in the order of your choice&lt;/strong&gt;: (Best order used)&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You place PS#1's ability on the stack targeting the 2/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You place PS#2's ability on the stack targeting the 2/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You place TS's ability on the stack targeting the Blood Artist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You place MS#1's ability on the stack targeting your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You place MS#2's ability on the stack targeting your opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MS#2's ability resolves:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MS#1's ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TS's ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to the Blood Artist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The Blood Artist dies. Blood Artist's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your opponent places Blood Artist's ability on the stack targeting you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Blood Artist's ability resolves:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You lose one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your opponent gains one life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;PS#2's ability resolves:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to the 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;PS#2's ability resolves:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deal one damage to the 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The 2/2 dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Move on the Declare Blockers]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emphasis is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T17:51:03.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12656" CreationDate="2013-08-06T17:54:36.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before blockers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, it's not combat damage, so it's not assigned. The ability &lt;em&gt;triggers&lt;/em&gt;, the ability is &lt;em&gt;placed on the stack&lt;/em&gt;, targets are &lt;em&gt;chosen&lt;/em&gt;, the ability &lt;em&gt;resolves&lt;/em&gt;, and the Sliver &lt;em&gt;deals damage&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers when the Sliver attacks, which means when it's declared as an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability gets placed on the stack the next time a player would get priority [CR 112.3c], which is still within the Declare Attackers step. That means the ability resolves and causes damage to be dealt in that step too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12644/3128&quot;&gt;earlier answer&lt;/a&gt; covers a very similar scenario in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-08-06T17:54:36.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12652" CreationDate="2013-08-07T03:04:34.733" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am going to reiterate that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_Rulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rules&lt;/a&gt; are sufficient for and a better way to learn how to play MtG rather than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130711.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When can Instants be cast?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants can be cast on your own turn, during your opponents turn, and in response to other spells. This differs from Sorcery cards, which can only be cast during your own Main Phase. (MtG Basic Rules, Page 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Instant&lt;/strong&gt; - An instant is just like a sorcery, except you can cast it just about any time you want, even during your opponent’s turn or in response to another spell. Like a sorcery, an instant has its effect, then you put it into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When can creatures use their abilities, like tap abilities?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anytime you could cast an Instant. There is nothing inherently different between an activated ability with the tap symbol in its cost and other activated abilities and their costs. &lt;strong&gt;Tapping&lt;/strong&gt; is a cost, and just like any other cost, it must be paid before activating an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Activated Abilities&lt;/strong&gt; - An activated ability is an ability that you can activate whenever you want, as long as you can pay the cost. [...] Each activated ability has a cost, then a colon (“:”), then an effect. [...] Some activated abilities contain the {T} symbol in their costs. This means that you must tap the permanent to activate the ability. You can’t activate the ability if the permanent is already tapped. (MtG Basic Rules, Page 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creature&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] Unlike other types of permanents, creatures enter the battlefield with “summoning sickness”: a creature can’t attack, or use an ability that has {T} in its cost, until it has started your turn on the battlefield under your control. You can block with a creature or activate its other abilities no matter how long it’s been on the battlefield.(MtG Basic Rules, Page 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do Instants and abilities have to do with the Stack and Priority?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants, Activated Abilities both go on the stack. The stack gives players the opportunity to respond to spells/abilities before they resolve. The stack is a First In Last Out (FILO) zone, where spells and abilities exist until they resolve or are countered. (Instants/Sorcery) spells have their effect and then go to the Graveyard, (Creatures/Enchantments/Artifacts/Planeswalkers) resolve and become permanents on the Battlefield, (Triggered Abilities/Activated Abilities) are not represented by a physical card, so they resolve and disappear into the AEther.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priority is just the way MtG is designed to handle whose turn it is to do something. Players can cast Instants or activate abilities on other players turns, so the game needs a way to determine who goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Stack&lt;/strong&gt; - Spells and abilities exist on the stack. They wait there to resolve until both players choose not to cast any new spells or activate any new abilities. Then the last spell or ability that was put onto the stack resolves, and players get a chance to cast spells and activate abilities again. (You’ll learn more about casting spells and activating abilities in the next section.) This zone is shared by both players.(MtG Basic Rules, Page 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Priority&lt;/strong&gt; - Since players can cast instants and activate abilities during each other’s turns, the game needs a system that makes sure only one player can do something at a time. Priority determines, at any given time, which player can cast a spell or activate an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The active player (the player whose turn it is) gets priority at the beginning of each step and each main phase—except for the untap step and the cleanup step. When you get priority, you can cast a spell, activate an activated ability, or pass (choose to do nothing). If you do something, you keep priority, so you make the same choice again. If you pass, your opponent gets priority, so now he or she gets that choice. This goes back and forth until both players pass in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both players pass in a row, if there’s a spell or ability waiting on the stack, it resolves. Then the active player gets priority again, and the system repeats. When both players pass in a row, if there’s no spell or ability waiting on the stack, that part of the turn ends and the next one begins.(MtG Basic Rules, Page 30)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T00:23:27.803" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T00:23:27.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12640" CreationDate="2013-08-07T15:23:01.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note is that a plasma missle armanda is meant to completely devastate one battle, but it is pretty hard to split off and attack multiple hexes. Also, keep in mind that winning battles does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; equal winning the game. My most recent game was a three player in which both my opponents got plasma missles and tried to conquer my territories. Though we all went down to negative 30 in the final round, I still won because they both went bankrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to have enough hull to tank the barrage of missiles and then respond with your cannons, but that is a little harder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A large fleet of plasma missile ships is hard to move around. Take advantage of that by taking other territories.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A final strategy is to team up with other players alse getting dominated in combat. That way you can attack on two different fronts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2013-08-07T15:23:01.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18727" CreationDate="2013-08-07T18:17:33.930" Score="4" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pinochle, according to the Bicycle insert in my decks, at least, aces around (one ace of each suit) is worth 100 points. The 9 of trump is worth 10. Other meld values all are multiples of ten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, a double aces around (two aces of each suit) is worth 1000 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason for using multiples of ten for point values even at the entry level instead of a simpler form (which I always play with) of 10 points for aces around, 4 for the pinochle, 1 for the 9 of trump, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-15T00:23:21.697" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T05:19:12.803" Title="Why does Pinochle utilize ultra-high point values for melds?" Tags="|scoring|pinochle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12663" CreationDate="2013-08-08T03:27:46.827" Score="13" ViewCount="3695" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/228.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mkl2m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/186.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7RjhO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the scenario (I hope I get this right by the rules): last turn, I summoned my &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/228.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dimir Keyrune&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield. This turn, if I transform it into that &lt;em&gt;&quot;2/2 blue and black Horror artifact creature&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, I'll be able to attack with it. It will be unblockable, making it a good candidate for a Cipher spell. The transience of it being a creature, however, is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whilst it's temporarily a creature, can I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/186.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paranoid Delusions&lt;/a&gt; and then encode it onto the Dimir Keyrune using Cipher?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the Dimir Keyrune stops being a creature, what happens to the Paranoid Delusions encoded on it? Does Dimir Keyrune remain encoded? This would mean, I think, that in the future, transforming it back into a creature would mean I could attack with it and potentially cast Paranoid Delusions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:26:29.850" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:26:29.850" Title="Can a Dimir Keyrune receive a Cipher, and does the encoded spell stay?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12662" CreationDate="2013-08-08T03:38:01.610" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can encode it on an animated Keyrune; and yes, it remains encoded even if the Keyrune stops being a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature is a creature. It doesn't matter how it became a creature. It's even less relevant that it might stop being a creature. (Any creature could stop being creature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantments, Equipments and Fortifications fall off because State-Based Actions (SBA) specifically ensure they are attached to a valid object. There is no such SBA for Cipher cards. As long as the Keyrune remains on the battlefield, Paranoid Delusions will remain encoded on it. Of course, you'll have to reanimate the Keyrune to take advantage of the encoded card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a reminder rule that covers this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.98c The card with cipher remains encoded on the chosen creature as long as the card with cipher remains exiled and the creature remains on the battlefield. The card remains encoded on that object even if it changes controller or stops being a creature, as long as it remains on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T16:20:42.473" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:20:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2013-08-08T15:36:03.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Brainden.com is another great place to play for those just starting out in the online mafia party game world. The games are in the Forum section. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mafiamaniac.b1.jcink.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mafiamaniac.net&lt;/a&gt; runs games that are a little more advanced, but the membership is very active and helpful, even providing mentors for those who haven't played before. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mafiamaniac.b1.jcink.com/index.php?showtopic=526&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link to a mafia introduction/guide to playing that you may find helpful if you are new(ish) to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5664" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T15:36:03.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2013-08-08T19:19:02.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamerz.net/pbmserv/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gamerz.net/pbmserv/&lt;/a&gt; hosts many games, abstract and social and otherwise, including Werewolf, via email.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T19:19:02.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2013-08-08T19:31:16.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have each player play two positions in the game, in alternating turn order. Disallow trading between the two positions controlled by the same player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trade opportunities will be twice as common as strict two player play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The leading position will be targeted by the robber up to 2/4 of the time and the trailing position &amp;lt;1/4 of the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The normal board setup is appropriately sized for this many positions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The robber can function as normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-08-08T19:31:16.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2013-08-09T00:17:40.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there is a valuable resource(the average amount of pips for each resource is 11.6) that has less than 10 pips, and there is no red hex corresponding to that resource, and there is only a 4 pip for that resource(ie there  is only a 9,3, and 12 hex for wheat, then try to claim the 9 and block other people from it) and don't trade with people for that resource unless it's 3:1(and usually if you want to trade 3:1 they have a harbor, else usually at least 4:1). So if you don't have that resource as initial placement, you should try to get a port and trade what you have(for example you have 2 cities and they correspond to a 8 and a 9 for sheep, get a sheep port)  with the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5665" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T00:17:40.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12671" CreationDate="2013-08-09T01:02:58.753" Score="13" ViewCount="2063" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a design point of view, I cannot figure out why Cascade should specifically exile the cards involved, then return them to the bottom of the deck instead of revealing them (like Spellshift or Reweave do)? Is there some sort of interaction I didn't notice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T19:47:04.120" Title="Why does Cascade exile?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12670" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-09T02:05:11.253" Score="1" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you attack with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m14/en/158.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt; and the ability triggers, does it do the damage from the attack first or the ability first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5666" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T04:49:40.763" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T04:49:40.763" Title="When does Thorncaster Sliver's ability resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-08-11T05:16:56.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12669" CreationDate="2013-08-09T02:56:26.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cascade works with exile rather than revealing because of the possibility of one Cascade triggering another Cascade.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full meaning of Cascade is (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;702.84a&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you cast this spell, exile cards from the top of your library until you exile a nonland card whose converted mana cost is less than this spell's converted mana cost. You may cast that card without paying its mana cost. Then put all cards exiled this way that weren't cast on the bottom of your library in a random order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this definition, if one Cascade spell finds another Cascade spell, the way you handle it is easy: the cards exiled by the first Cascade are still exiled, so you keep going through your library until you find another appropriate spell. It's simple and a very literal cascade through your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if you were simply revealing cards from the top of your library? Well, the &quot;reveal&quot; doesn't actually move the cards from your library. So if you needed to Cascade again, you have to put those cards back and then look through them again! Then, making the &quot;put all cards revealed this way&quot; phrasing work becomes much more complicated, because some of the cards are subject to two or more Cascade effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I don't believe that there's a deep gameplay reason, but it makes the Cascade mechanism (specifically, its recursive nature) and the wording simple and elegant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T16:21:48.357" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:21:48.357" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12670" CreationDate="2013-08-09T03:53:49.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ability, before blockers are even declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers when the Sliver attacks, which means when it's declared as an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability gets placed on the stack the next time a player would get priority [CR 112.3c], which is still within the Declare Attackers step. That means the ability resolves and causes damage to be dealt in that step too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12644/3128&quot;&gt;earlier answer&lt;/a&gt; covers a very similar scenario in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T03:53:49.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12674" CreationDate="2013-08-09T09:34:14.753" Score="9" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an authoritative answer here. Where does the Spoils card end up after being played twice by Counterfeit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, can Spoils be trashed at all? My understanding is that yes it can when it isn't played, e.g. in order to increase the value of Forager.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T09:58:26.493" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T10:08:46.930" Title="Can Spoils be trashed by Counterfeit?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12673" CreationDate="2013-08-09T09:57:09.283" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spoils is played twice, but is &lt;strong&gt;returned to the Spoils pile and not trashed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spoils is a treasure providing three coins that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you play this, return it to the Spoils pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counterfeit reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you play this, you may play a Treasure from your hand twice. If you do, trash that Treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Dark Ages rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_421_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;), page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you use Counterfeit to play Spoils twice, you will get [six coins], (in addition to the [one coin] from Counterfeit) and return Spoils to the Spoils pile; you will be unable to trash it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your second question, Spoils can be trashed, but not when it is played, exactly as you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T10:08:46.930" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T10:08:46.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8663" CreationDate="2013-08-09T13:56:26.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Descent is an unbalanced game in favour of the Overlord.&#xA;My friends and I made these adjustments that may help you as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no selling half-price problem - we started selling items 1:1 or with a 25 gold penalty per item sold. Actually buying is much more fun than dreaming about items and never trying them in action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One relic item per lieutenant and no relic in play when lieutenant is not present on the board - for OL of course (I believe it is mentioned in the rule book but it is not clear as some relics give credit to the lieutenant and some to OL, hence in the beginning we started with treating them as OL extra cards on a side, than moved back to the no lieutenant-no card rule).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is good to ban dragons most of the time as even one of them gives OL too much credit - I played card: extra fatigue after succesful attack for this turn, double move on dragon, double attack on dragon and had heroes in one line. Adding card that add surge to attack just finished this quest. They were all dead in one move with dragon standing upon them waiting for anyone to reanimate. My suggestion - when there is no Dragon Cave in a quest there are no dragons to be used. It is definitely harder for OL to play with goblins (and have one goblin reanimation per turn) than with two dragons (and one dragon reanimate per turn) in four heroes game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using heroic ability cannot be disturbed with a card or game rule. Example - extra movement cannot be stopped with a web (but after heroic is done regular movement can be stopped). Tomble can go through closed doors and portals with his heroic ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion (except using dragons) none of the above suggestions will cause players to feel that they only won (if they had) because the OL allowed them to win. At least, it works for my group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5668" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T22:37:50.930" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T22:37:50.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12676" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-08-09T14:56:31.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Swish is a pattern recognition card game reminiscent of Set that challenges a player to make matches – dubbed &quot;Swishes&quot; – before opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Swish includes 60 transparent cards; each card has some combination of balls and hoops on it, with these items coming in four colors. To set up the game, lay out 16 cards on the table. Players simultaneously try to create &quot;Swishes&quot; by spotting two or more cards that can be laid on top of one another in some manner so that every ball fits in a hoop of the same color. Create a Swish, and you claim the cards used, with new cards then being laid out. Whoever claims the most cards wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/99219/swish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swish (BGG)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T16:03:23.500" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T16:03:23.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12677" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-08-09T14:56:31.370" Score="0" Body="Swish is a pattern recognition card game that challenges a player to make matches – dubbed &quot;Swishes&quot; – before opponents." OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2013-08-09T15:58:30.953" LastActivityDate="2013-08-09T15:58:30.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12679" CreationDate="2013-08-09T21:02:38.393" Score="4" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing The Resistance with the Plot Thickens expansion, the leader gets to distribute the Plot cards to other players of her choosing.  Is this a blind draw, or does the leader get to look at the cards before giving them to other players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="6122" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T16:05:29.903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T22:43:33.467" Title="Does the leader get to look at the Plot cards before distribution?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12678" CreationDate="2013-08-09T22:52:28.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the leader not only &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; at the plot cards, he also &lt;em&gt;chooses&lt;/em&gt; what card to give which player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find a copy of the original rules online, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://desktopgames.com.ua/games/642/resistance_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is a summary of the rules. Also note the plot cards are public information once dealt to a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="4942" LastEditDate="2013-08-10T05:58:02.783" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T05:58:02.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12682" CreationDate="2013-08-10T16:08:43.270" Score="24" ViewCount="109781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that I have a pretty standard version Monopoly, which looks exactly like I see in the Web&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LzdCX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has two white dice with values 1 to 6 and one red with values 1,2,3 and 3 pictures. I haven't seen any rules that say what to do with this second die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;update&lt;/strong&gt; Once, I've got to know that this is called at &quot;speed die&quot;, I have managed to find a nice picture of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5c3pA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5c3pA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Monopoly Speed Die&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e6V6q.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e6V6q.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;speed die&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The second picture has red regular dice instead of white like I have, but the special die is clearer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5669" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-02-26T21:00:43.693" LastActivityDate="2019-02-26T21:42:06.940" Title="What is the special die with pictograms in Monopoly used for?" Tags="|monopoly|dice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12680" CreationDate="2013-08-10T17:01:59.137" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears you have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/57702/monopoly-family-game-night-championship-edition&quot;&gt;Championship Edition&lt;/a&gt; (or the Mega Edition or some other recent modified version), which includes a &quot;speed die&quot; (that third die) for speeding up the game, though it's definitely not part of the original game. There are two &quot;bus&quot; faces, and one &quot;Mr. Monopoly&quot; face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt; on Hasbro's site explaining how it works. The PDF was was reluctant to load for me, so I've quoted them here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When starting the game, hand out an extra $1,000 to each player &#xA;  (two $500s should work). The game moves fast and you'll need &#xA;  the extra cash to buy and build. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not use the Speed Die until you've landed on or passed over GO for the first time. Once you collect that first $200 salary, you'll use the Speed Die for the rest of the game. This means that some players will start using the die before others. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you start using the Speed Die, roll it along with the two &#xA;  white dice on your turn. Then do the following depending on &#xA;  what you rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;1, 2, or 3: Add this number to the roll of the two white dice. You'll zoom around the board. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bus: This lets you &quot;get off the bus early.&quot; Look at the two white dice. You can move the value of one die, the other die, or the sum of both dice. So if you rolled a 1 and a 5, you can move 1 space, 5 spaces, or 6 spaces: it's your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mr. Monopoly: First, move the sum of the two white dice &#xA;  and resolve the space you land on (such as drawing a card, &#xA;  buying the property, paying rent, etc.). Then, one of two &#xA;  things will happen depending on whether or not there is still &#xA;  property in the bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;YES, there is property in the bank -- Advance to the NEXT &#xA;  property that the bank still holds and buy it if you wish. If you &#xA;  don't want to buy this property, move to the space anyway &#xA;  and put the property up for auction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NO, there are no more properties in the bank -- Advance to the &#xA;  NEXT property on which you will owe another player money. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A few minor details: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only the white dice are used when determining if you rolled doubles. Do not look at the Speed Die. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you roll a three-of-a-kind (all of the dice show the same number), &#xA;  you can move anywhere you want on the board!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you get sent to jail during your move (either by landing on the &quot;Go &#xA;  to Jail&quot; space or by rolling doubles three times in a row) then your turn &#xA;  is over and you do not get to use the Speed Die for that turn. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the white dice ONLY when rolling to get out of jail.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the sum of all three dice when determining how much to pay on a utility. Note: The Bus and Mr. Monopoly are valued at 0.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-08-10T22:10:37.420" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T22:10:37.420" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6877" CreationDate="2013-08-10T20:28:06.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Focus on moving your position up, seldom is a hand good enough to jump to up the top spot from a late position.&#xA;Note is you have a poor hand, you will want to focus on preventing some one below you from passing you.&#xA;This generally means not risking your good cards to challenge the early players.  To prevent your immediate superior and those below you from getting the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly fewer player in the game makes it harder to move up multiple places.  With more than 7 and/or particularly good cards feel free to shoot for moving up more than one position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Dalumuti is meant to play for several deals, moving up slowly is best way to get to the drivers seat.  More aggressive play can quickly send you to the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2013-08-10T20:28:06.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-12T20:17:54.243" Score="0" ViewCount="1466" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trick that involves &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloudshift%5d&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;ing or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnsummon%5d&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt;ing (or any similar effect) a card with the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblivion%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; effect (most commonly in current standard is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFiend%20Hunter%5d&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt;) to permanently exile a creature is well-known to even mildly experienced players, and questions related to it are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9348/&quot;&gt;relatively&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://draw3cards.com/question/9254&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common&lt;/a&gt; on forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently, I've had a player claim that, at the time that a recent GP was played in my hometown, he was told by a &lt;em&gt;judge&lt;/em&gt; that this trick will also work on a Fiend Hunter that &lt;em&gt;has been on the battlefield since the beginning of the turn with a creature that is already exiled&lt;/em&gt;. This supposedly results into a permanently exiled creature (the originally exiled one) and a second, &quot;temporary&quot; exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since I have never seen anyone claim so or ask the question, I find myself having to ask because, well, let's just say that the &quot;judge aura&quot; is not exactly helping me making my arguments here, and I am much less experienced than the other player. My only theory is that there was some miscommunication and the judge assumed this was the classic, constantly-asked question about a Fiend Hunter cloudshifted as it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T18:25:16.683" Title="Cloudshifting an existing Fiend hunter" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12685" CreationDate="2013-08-12T23:53:20.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure what the judge was talking about, and how this &amp;quot;trick&amp;quot; explained works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The well-known &amp;quot;trick&amp;quot; takes advantage of the fact that the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fiend%20Hunter&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; has two triggered abilities. One that triggers when it enters the battlefield, and one that triggers when it leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you trigger the second ability before the first resolves, the first will still resolve but the exiled card will no longer be linked to the Fiend Hunter because it has left the battlefield (if you used an unsummon effect) or because the original Fiend Hunter permanent no longer exists (if you used a flicker effect, when Fiend Hunter returns to play it is a new object and has no relation to the previous Fiend Hunter which triggered the first ability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the Fiend Hunter has been on the battlefield linked to an exiled creature since the start of turn, the second ability's trigger will be placed on the stack when it leaves play. At that point nothing short of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; or similar ability will stop the exiled creature from returning to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Pow-lan mentions in a comment, a possible scenario the judge was referring to is that you use two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; spells (or other flicker effects), where you &amp;quot;reset&amp;quot; the Fiend Hunter with the first, thus allowing the first ability to trigger again when it returns to play, and then remove it from play with the second before the first ability resolves… but that seems pretty obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-08-12T23:59:07.000" LastActivityDate="2013-08-12T23:59:07.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12685" CreationDate="2013-08-13T13:59:25.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I know what the judge was saying, but I think they were mistaken, or maybe being over zealous with interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the LTB and the ETB would trigger at the same time, and you get to pick the order they are placed on the stack since they all trigger before a player gets priority, this 'trick' would work with a single cloudshift if the ability did not know what creature was exiled with the original Feind Hunter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;  abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;  chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording on the card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...return the exiled card to the battlefield under it's owner's&#xA;  control&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to ghoppe who pointed out this is defined as a linked ability by rule 607.2a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;607.2a If an object has an activated or triggered ability printed on it that instructs a player to exile one or more cards and an ability&#xA;  printed on it that refers either to &quot;the exiled cards&quot; or to cards&#xA;  &quot;exiled with [this object],&quot; these abilities are linked. The second&#xA;  ability refers only to cards in the exile zone that were put there as&#xA;  a result of an instruction to exile them in the first ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it is a linked ability there is no escaping it. When the ability is triggered it has intrinsic knowledge of the card that was exiled with the ETB ability. There is no way that the Fiend Hunter could exile two creatures if it was already on the battle field without using a pair of cloudshifts or other flickering mechanisms.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T18:25:16.683" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T18:25:16.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-13T15:27:14.177" Score="3" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Culling%20the%20Weak&quot;&gt;Culling the Weak&lt;/a&gt; to sacrifice 4 creatures for 16 black mana, then use 15 of that mana on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whispering%20Shade&quot;&gt;Whispering Shade&lt;/a&gt; to make it stronger, can I then sacrifice them to get 5 mana for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Death&quot;&gt;Living Death&lt;/a&gt; to bring all my creatures back with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whispering%20Shade&quot;&gt;Whispering Shade&lt;/a&gt;  being a 16/16?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5678" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T18:33:18.730" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:14:15.687" Title="Does &quot;+X +X until end of turn.&quot; effects remain on creatures in the graveyard and/or exiled until end of turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12694" CreationDate="2013-08-13T16:28:41.333" Score="7" ViewCount="7032" Body="&lt;p&gt;The panic card has a range of one (which makes sense since the idea is you have your gun to someone's head). I've interpreted that to mean that you can only use that on people who are a range 1 distance from yourself. However, I'm not sure how that is to be interpreted in regards to the scope and mustang cards, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I have a scope, can I panic a card from someone who is range two away from me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if my neighbor has a mustang, can I not panic from them since they are at range two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5679" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T01:27:53.483" Title="How is the panic card affected by Range?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12692" CreationDate="2013-08-13T17:26:50.753" Score="4" ViewCount="1286" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glacial%20Chasm&quot;&gt;Glacial Chasm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Power%20Conduit&quot;&gt;Power Conduit&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coretapper&quot;&gt;Coretapper&lt;/a&gt; out, during my upkeep can I wait for the cumulative upkeep on Glacial Chasm to go on the stack, activate Power Conduit to remove the age counter on the Chasm, and then move that to Coretapper in the form of a +1/+1 counter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cannot, how would all of that interact? Would I have to pay 2 life per turn, but as long as I moved them it wouldn't be any more than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4857" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T17:44:12.420" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T17:44:12.420" Title="Cumulative Upkeep on the Stack" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12691" CreationDate="2013-08-13T17:40:11.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, not quite. The age counter isn't actually placed on Glacial Chasm until the cumulative upkeep trigger resolves. When it resolves, as part of the same triggered ability, you must then pay two life for that counter or sacrifice Chasm. You can't remove the counter before you have to pay two life for it because you don't get priority while an ability is resolving. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, however, remove each counter immediately after the cumulative upkeep trigger resolves, meaning you pay only pay two life per turn indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5628" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T17:40:11.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12280" CreationDate="2013-08-13T19:50:03.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366268&quot;&gt;Debtor's Pulpit&lt;/a&gt; was used in Pro Tour Dragon's Maze to lock down Aetherling. It's a CMC-5 aura that gives the enchanted land the ability to tap a target creature. You can tap Aetherling at the beginning of combat. It they blink it, it can't attack during that combat anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5680" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-08-13T20:07:41.860" LastActivityDate="2013-08-13T20:07:41.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12690" CreationDate="2013-08-14T02:02:40.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use a panico card to take a card from someone who is two places away from you if you have a scope. &#xA; As per page 7 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang/bang_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bang rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Panic!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The symbols state: “Draw &#xA;  a card” from “a player at &#xA;  distance 1”. Remember that this distance is not modified by &#xA;  weapons, but only by cards such as Mustang and/or Scope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember there is a difference between &quot;number of places a player is away from you&quot; and &quot;range&quot;. Consequently, I would probably word your example a little differently:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Panico only works on players who are at range 1 from you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a scope (and no one else has any range affecting cards), the two players to your left (and the two players to your right) are both at range 1 (range can never go below 1), so you can panico from any of those four players. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think wording it this way is less confusing - you can never panico cards from someone who is at range two - but, you can reduce the range of a player who is two places away to range 1, by using a scope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if your neighbour has a mustang, yes, they will be at range two, and no, you cannot use a panico card to take a card from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, remember that range adjusting cards stack - say you have a scope, and your immediate neighbour (Jane) to the left has both a mustang and a hideout, while the player to her left (Bob) has no blue cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jane's range from you is 2:  1 for the number of places, +1 for the hideout, +1 for the mustang, -1 for your scope. You cannot panico from her, even though she is one place away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob's range from you is 1: 2 for the number of places, -1 for your scope. You can panico a card from him, even though he is two places away, past Jane.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember each card in play in front of you needs to be unique (amongst &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; tabled cards). But, you can have cards with a duplicate &lt;em&gt;effect&lt;/em&gt; in play, as long as they have different names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-08-15T01:27:53.483" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T01:27:53.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12698" CreationDate="2013-08-14T02:45:45.100" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens win condition wise if the last shadow and hunter where to die at the same time? This could happen if a dynamite was to go off and kill them both or a neutral had the machine gun and did enough damage to kill them both with one attack. Would this mean that both hunters and shadows lose or would it mean they both win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Shadow have the win condition of all Hunters dead and Hunters have the win condition of all Shadows dead--they don't specify that at least one Shadow/Hunter has to be alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T03:42:04.270" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T07:09:39.743" Title="What happens if the last Shadow and Hunter die at the same time?" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12697" CreationDate="2013-08-14T04:41:08.477" Score="4" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I listen to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Limited Resources Podcast&lt;/a&gt; quite a bit, and I always hear this word used that sounds like &quot;Parody&quot;. In context:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My opponent and I were at &quot;parody&quot;; neither of us could do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find this term anywhere online. I've searched for &quot;parody&quot;, &quot;parroty&quot;, &quot;peredi&quot;... It must sound silly, but &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;what is this word they are using&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T15:10:25.497" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T15:10:25.497" Title="What is the term for a stalemate or locked board in Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12696" CreationDate="2013-08-14T04:51:09.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parity, in this context meaning equality (of game state, in some sense). In general, equality of game state doesn't necessarily mean a stalemate or locked board, but in Magic it's often the case that the player to make the first move is at a disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T04:51:09.930" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12695" CreationDate="2013-08-14T07:09:39.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By a strict reading of the rules, the only requirement is that all of the opposing faction are dead, regardless of whether you or anyone else in your faction survived. Therefore, unless there is an official clarification to contradict it, &lt;strong&gt;all Hunters and Shadows win&lt;/strong&gt; in this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not much of a source, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/930309/mutually-assured-destruction-can-shadows-and-hunt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; agrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would also mean that if a Hunter kills the last Shadow but also a third neutral at the same time, the Shadows would still win at the same time as the Hunters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T07:09:39.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12688" CreationDate="2013-08-14T08:43:24.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, with a single Culling the Weak, you can only sacrifice a single creature, not as many as you like. If you could use it multiple times, it would explicitly say so in the text. (Be sure to check the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6085&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;text in the Oracle&lt;/a&gt; rather than the text on the physical card.) You can use Living Shade's ability as often as you like, but there is a difference between a one-shot spell effect and an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, once you cast CtW, you cannot cast another spell (Living Death) and then continue sacrificing to CtW, because CtW has resolved, is in the graveyard, and its effect is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, if you activate Living Shade's ability to make it stronger, then sacrifice it, then bring it back into play from the graveyard, it will be a completely new Living Shade with no &quot;memory&quot; of its previous existence, and thus will be 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T13:14:15.687" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T13:14:15.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12706" CreationDate="2013-08-14T14:24:14.397" Score="8" ViewCount="1755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in printing custom cards for Ticket to Ride. I have some experience with printing (I used to run a magazine), so I would to print the cards with a regular printer or with a Kinko's. This is a bit more DIY than going with a custom printer who specializes in playing cards and games. What kind of paper stock should I use to print custom cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2017-01-24T06:07:21.137" Title="What kind of paper should one use to print custom cards?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|custom-game-pieces|print-and-play|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12704" CreationDate="2013-08-14T15:02:13.270" Score="2" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrostani%2c%5d%2b%5bSelesnya%27s%5d%2b%5bVoice%5d&quot;&gt;Trostani, Selesnya&amp;#39;s Voice&lt;/a&gt; is in play (&lt;em&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control, you gain life equal to that creature's toughness&lt;/em&gt;). Then, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoracious%20Wurm%5d&quot;&gt;Voracious Wurm&lt;/a&gt; is cast (&lt;em&gt;Voracious Wurm enters the battlefield with X +1/+1 counters on it, where X is the amount of life you've gained this turn&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which trigger happens first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 2 life, then the wurm enters play with 2 +1/+1 counters, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wurm enters play with 0 +1/+1 counters, then gain 2 life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="13806" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T20:15:31.593" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T20:15:31.593" Title="Voracious Wurm and Trostani, Selesnya's Voice: Which trigger happens first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12702" CreationDate="2013-08-14T15:26:37.113" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voracious%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Voracious Wurm&lt;/a&gt;'s ability isn't a triggered ability. It's a &lt;em&gt;replacement effect&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of putting the Wurm on the battlefield, you put the Wurm on the battlefield and put counters on it, as one action. Only &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; do you check for triggers, like Trostani's ETB life-gain trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T15:26:37.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12702" CreationDate="2013-08-14T15:30:34.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voracious Wurm has a replacement effect that modifies how it enters the battlefield; thus, it would come into play with 0 +1/+1 counters, and you will gain two life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Voracious Wurm had a triggered ability (such as &quot;When ~ enters the battlefield, put X +1/+1 counters on it, where X is the amount of life you've gained this turn&quot;), however, you would be able to place the triggers on the stack in whatever order you choose, meaning you could gain 2 life and put 2 counters on, or put 0 counters on and gain two life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;  abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;  chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and&#xA;  resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities&#xA;  that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process&#xA;  repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no&#xA;  abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply&#xA;  continuously as events happen -- they aren't locked in ahead of time.&#xA;  Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and&#xA;  completely or partially replace that event with a different event.&#xA;  They act like &quot;shields&quot; around whatever they're affecting.&#xA;  614.1d Continuous effects that read &quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield . . .&quot; or &quot;[Objects] enter the battlefield . . .&quot; are&#xA;  replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5688" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-08-14T16:58:12.450" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T16:58:12.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12701" CreationDate="2013-08-14T22:33:29.517" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;at least 110# card, probably not above 200# card. 110# is thicker than my playing cards, as an FYI. I've used it for quite shuffleable cards for playtest games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get past 200# stock, you're into stuff too stiff for comfortable shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A high rag content is good, as well, as it's more resilient than pure wood-pulp stocks. High clay content is bad, for the same reason, and because it results in longer drying times, higher chance of backs being marked, and in my experience, higher chance of laser printing wearing off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you're doing print and play for long term use, it's better to use some form of ink printing rather than laser/photocopier, due to face wear. (Remembering that inks soak in, while laser toner is actually a surface deposit, and thus wears off.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember: for small runs, odds are that the copy shop will simply photocopy (usually using a laser copier) the material. If you can afford offset for the run, it's probably the most durable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For playable home use, 110# white cotton bond no-clay card is fine, especially if using an inkjet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-08-14T22:33:29.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2013-08-15T01:11:02.223" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;An Alternative Method&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most players will learn when to bid by feel, but for those who are not yet at that point or prefer something more concrete, you can assign a score to your hand, in order to determine whether you should bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players use a 3-2-1 point system, with the bowers worth 3 points each, face trumps worth 2 points each, and low trumps or off-suit aces worth 1 point each. In this system, any hand of 7 points or above is worth bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another system is simply scoring your hand by tricks. A right bower is worth a full trick. A Left bower is worth 3/4 of a trick. Ace, King, or Queen of trump is worth 1/2 a trick. And low trump is worth 1/4 of a trick. Each trump card in your hand beyond the second gets a 1/4 trick bonus. Meanwhile, off-suit aces are worth 3/4 of a trick, but lose 1/4 of a trick for every other card you have in that suit. And finally, every suit in which you are void is worth 1/4 trick, if you have more than one trump card. Using this method, you can bid whenever your average hand value is at least 2.5 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5692" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T01:11:02.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2013-08-15T02:31:09.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TO improve at Euchre, play a game that makes even greater demands on your strategic thinking, and play technique. Playing Bridge I have seen my Euchre level rise as my capability at Bridge increased, but playing any of 9-5-2, Whist, Hearts, Pinochle and many others (along with Euchre as well, naturally) will improve your play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one example, learning when to lose a trick that you don't have to, such as leading out a low trump instead of a high one, can be worth nearly a half a point a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T02:31:09.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12711" CreationDate="2013-08-15T09:45:44.067" Score="8" ViewCount="4366" Body="&lt;p&gt;We love Dominion, and it's about time we buy an expansion, but there are so many!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife and I like to play less directly competitive setups, focusing on cards like Woodcutter, Village, Mine and so on. We generally avoid attack cards, liking to just mind our own business as we push towards victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, I'm trying to figure out which expansion would give us the most value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is; which expansion for Dominion would most support our preference for friendly (passive) play?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I've seen there are other versions of this question, but they're quite old and there've been more expansions released since.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T18:56:15.793" Title="Which Dominion Expansion Should we Buy for Passive Play?" Tags="|dominion|expansions|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2013-08-15T10:14:22.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Prosperity, since it extends the game with Colonies and Platinum, and action cards to boost income without adding many attack cards. I wouldn't choose Dark Ages since that has a lot of attack cards and interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T10:14:22.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2013-08-15T13:21:25.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a pure numbers standpoint, Dark Ages would be the best with 37 new Kingdom cards, only 6 of which are Attack cards. From how well the sets are regarded by the designer (and others from what I have heard), you are better off getting &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/12/21/interview-with-donald-x-vaccarino-part-ii-dominion/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intrigue or Seaside&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: If you could go back in time and redesign which cards were in which sets, and the order the sets came out (but not changing/adding/removing any cards), what would you move and why?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vaccarino:&lt;/strong&gt; For set order I like going &lt;strong&gt;Intrigue, Seaside, Prosperity&lt;/strong&gt; – set trying to be a good first set, generally good set, set that adds Colonies. I would put Alchemy last, where it was; it was there because I knew some people wouldn’t like potions, because somebody hadn’t. You could swap Hinterlands with Seaside but I wouldn’t. After Prosperity then there are Hinterlands and Dark Ages to order and well you have the question from before of whether or not Hinterlands is a standalone. I like having another standalone, and if it is one then I would put it ahead of Dark Ages. Possibly I would anyway. A question is, do you recombine Cornucopia and Alchemy. If people don’t like Alchemy then it’s nice that they get a tight package of just it, rather than buying it to get Cornucopia or passing on Cornucopia because of it. So possibly it’s worth keeping them separate. Large sets are better though, so either expand Cornucopia and Guilds or combine them. That’s another decision to make before knowing what order to put them in, but Guilds wants to be near the end due to complexity. If they’re not one set then large Cornucopia could go between Prosperity and Hinterlands still, uh depending on how it turned out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/card-lists/intrigue-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Intrigue&lt;/a&gt; - 21/24 Non-Attack cards. Intrigue adds Dual-Type cards. From a ratings standpoint, I believe the highest rated sets are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/card-lists/seaside-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Seaside&lt;/a&gt; 21/26 Non-Attack cards. Seaside adds duration cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/card-lists/alchemy-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alchemy&lt;/a&gt; 11/13 Non-Attack cards. Alchemy adds a new Potion treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.wordpress.com/card-lists/prosperity-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt; 24/27 Non-Attack cards. Prosperity adds new treasure kingdom cards, VP tokens, and high cost Platinum and Colony cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/card-lists/cornucopia-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cornucopia&lt;/a&gt; 10/13 Non-Attack cards. Cornucopia rewards players with diverse decks, and offers 5 Unique Gifts available in the Tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/card-lists/hinterlands-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hinterlands&lt;/a&gt; 23/26 Non-Attack cards. Hinterlands adds cards that have an effect when bought/gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/card-lists/dark-ages-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dark Ages&lt;/a&gt; 31/37 Non-Attack cards. Cards that do something when Trashed, care about the Trash, or are upgradable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/card-lists/guilds-card-list/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guilds&lt;/a&gt; 11/13 Non-Attack cards. Coin tokens that can be played on later turns, bonus effects for paying extra for cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T13:32:15.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2013-08-15T14:25:41.220" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can look on the internet for top tier deck lists to get ideas of what cards you will want and need and what works. Then, when you have a decklist, buy the singles from sites such as manashack.com It saves you a lot of money in the long run as you wont have to keep buying booster packs to get the cards you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5695" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T14:25:41.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2013-08-15T21:53:55.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want the multi-player solitaire angle?  All the sets have attack cards, I'd say the really devastating attacks are Saboteur, Torturer, Possession, Familiar, and Mountebank  (Yes, I know Possession isn't technically an &quot;Attack&quot; card).  Sea Hag and Pirate Ship and Cultist are bad too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hinterlands doesn't have any of those.  But the cards are more complicated, so maybe you don't want to get it right after the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-08-15T21:53:55.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12717" CreationDate="2013-08-16T16:29:41.630" Score="5" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;While mostly skill, Scrabble does of course have that chance element.  You could lose to an inferior play or beat a more skilled player based upon tile distribution in the game.  Is there any system out there which adjusts the score at the end based upon the tiles that each player has drawn?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be for example one player got all 4 S tiles and both blank tiles and would be expected to score highter.  Or it could be one player played 55 tiles and the other played 45 tiles during the course of a match. Maybe even handicap systems based upon the players respective ratings entering the match where the weaker player gets and additional 10 or 20 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T22:07:57.013" Title="Is there a normalized scoring format for Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2013-08-16T17:55:02.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I would recommend Prosperity for players that don't like attacks. Prosperity adds interesting type of strategy that is less dependent on attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, amazon does sell a big box deal that includes 3 different sets for a lesser price. May be worth checking out, but I think it may unfortunately include the base set too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not familiar, each expansion introduces a different type of strategy. Perhaps, by knowing this, it may help which expansion to choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intrigue - Supports extra players and extends the basic cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alchemy - Adds the Potion treasure which is used to purchase Alchemy unique cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seaside - Duration cards. Allows you to play cards this turn, and your next turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cornucopia - Encourages having a deck with variety&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prosperity - Big Money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hinterlands - Ending the game by running decks quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark Ages - Trashing techniques&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guilds - Coin purchases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5701" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T17:55:02.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12715" CreationDate="2013-08-16T17:57:19.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duplicate_Scrabble&quot;&gt;Duplicate scrabble&lt;/a&gt; Is a form of scrabble that is highly normalised and the standard form for competitive play in French. It can involve an arbitrary number of players who are not &quot;competing&quot; on the board, but only to find the highest score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T17:57:19.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12715" CreationDate="2013-08-16T18:12:28.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with my kids I spot them points. As early teenagers around 120 points was right, my 18 year old son is down to about a 65 spot now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I embarrassed myself by offering a 60 point spot to my cousin's daughter two years ago, and she beat me by more than the spot. However that is the last time I will also allow her access to a printed word list. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-16T18:12:28.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11377" CreationDate="2013-08-16T18:19:06.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've used the d12 several times, and I enjoy the change of pace. When using the d12, we've always treated the one as equivalent to the seven. That seemed like the most obvious choice. The idea of picking up a development card is intriguing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have the event card expansion that is intended to replace dice. It's goal is to keep the probability curve similar to the 2d6 game play while smoothing out streaks. Within a given shuffle you'll eventually hit all the numbers. It also adds earthquake events that just serve to extend game play. Overall when trying to simplify the game i prefer using the d12 to the event cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy with the d12 becomes more about settling on the resource types you need for your preferred style of play and possibly competing for ports instead of just competing for the numbers that come up the most often. It greatly decreases the chance for one player to get into a situation where they're really not competing with everyone else. I don't think it diminishes the fun of the game at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5702" LastEditorUserId="5702" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T18:51:10.957" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T18:51:10.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-17T00:02:00.627" Score="15" ViewCount="8362" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I are pretty competitive.  We play a lot of various games with various scoring systems used by each (i.e. 7-wonders, Catan, Dominion, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know of any website or system that can be used for keeping track of who won which game and by how much?  Doesn't need to be applicable to all games, but would be nice to keep a record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1866" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T09:17:10.420" Title="Are there any websites for keeping score of various boardgames?" Tags="|scoring|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5329" CreationDate="2013-08-17T08:33:21.767" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am developing a site to practice card play for bridge: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://akqbridge.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;akqbridge.&lt;/a&gt; There is no bidding - you play set contracts.  One key aim is to lower the entry barrier for new players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5705" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T08:33:21.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12726" CreationDate="2013-08-17T08:41:52.157" Score="3" ViewCount="818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know where I can find a list of all the expansions to the core set and the release dates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5704" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T15:20:27.830" Title="For the Call of Cthulhu LCG, what is the release order of the expansions?" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2013-08-17T09:26:50.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having the possible distributions of a suit in one's mind is a shortcut way of working out what cards a player has left in their hand.  So if you are declarer with 5 cards in your trump suit and dummy has 3 trumps, the remaining 5 trumps are probably divided 3 2 or 4 1 between the two opponents.  (You work this out quickly by having the patterns 5332 and 5431 in your mind.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you test your guess. If both opponents follow to two rounds of trumps, there is only one trump left, whereas if one opponent shows out on the second round, his partner had 4 trumps initially, and still has 2 left.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On most hands it is usually only relevant to keep a count of two suits: your trump suit and the main side suit which you need to establish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A further help for working out the missing cards is to focus on the &lt;strong&gt;missing &lt;em&gt;key&lt;/em&gt; cards&lt;/strong&gt;. For instance, if you have the A 10 5 4 of hearts and dummy has the K 9 3, the missing key cards are the Q and the J.  You need to focus on when these fall in order to determine if your 10 (or 9) is good. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two more difficult types of hands that I face most frequently are those that require an end play and No Trump contracts where there are missing high cards in two (or even three!) suits.  With my present level of expertise, I cannot seem to anticipate where an end play is the technique required, but at least akqbridge.com has allowed me to practice these in retrospect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where an &quot;end play&quot; is needed to make the contract, you need to use one's knowledge of patterns such as 5431 to keep track of the cards remaining in the hand of the opponent you wish to end play. Basically, you are stripping them of the cards in their escape suits so that, when you &quot;throw them in&quot; (i.e let them win a trick), they are forced to lead the suit you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5705" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-08-19T14:24:01.417" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T14:24:01.417" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3633" CreationDate="2013-08-17T12:25:06.733" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have set up a website to practice card play: &lt;a href=&quot;http://akqbridge.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;akqbridge.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5705" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T12:25:06.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12723" CreationDate="2013-08-17T15:06:30.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40270/call-of-cthulhu-the-card-game#moreinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek.com&lt;/a&gt; lists all the Asylum Pack Expansions, along with their order of release. The database does have a field for &lt;strong&gt;Release Date&lt;/strong&gt;, but usually it is blank with only the year of release noted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-1) &lt;strong&gt;Forgotten Lore:&lt;/strong&gt; Spawn of Madness, Kingsport Dreams, Conspiracies of Chaos, Dunwich Denizens, At the Mountains of Madness, Ancient Horrors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-2) &lt;strong&gt;The Summons of the Deep:&lt;/strong&gt; Spawn of The Sleeper, The Horror Beneath the Surface, The Antediluvian Dream, The Terror of the Tides, The Thing from the Shore, The Path to Y'ha-nthlei &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-3) &lt;strong&gt;The Dreamlands:&lt;/strong&gt; Twilight Horror, In Memory of Day, In the Dread of Night, The Search for the Silver Key, Sleep of the Dead, Journey to Unknown Kadath &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-4) &lt;strong&gt;The Yuggoth Contract:&lt;/strong&gt; Whispers in the Dark, Murmurs of Evil, The Spoken Covenant, The Wailer Below, Screams from Within, The Cacophony &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-5) &lt;strong&gt;The Rituals of the Order:&lt;/strong&gt; The Twilight Beckons, Perilous Trials, Initiations of the Favored, Aspirations of Ascension, The Gleaming Spiral, That Which Consumes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-6) &lt;strong&gt;Ancient Relics:&lt;/strong&gt; The Shifting Sands, Curse of the Jade Emperor, The Breathing Jungle, Never Night Into Tartarus, Shadow of the Monolith&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-7) &lt;strong&gt;Revelations:&lt;/strong&gt; Written and Bound, Words of Power, Ebla Restored, Lost Rites, The Unspeakable Pages, Touched by the Abyss&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deluxe Expansions&lt;/strong&gt;: Secrets of Arkham, The Order of the Silver Twilight, Seekers of Knowledge, The Key and the Gate Terror in Venice &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FFG have now retired Asylum Packs for Call of Cthulhu and will now be releasing deluxe expansions every 4 months instead, beginning with the Seekers of Knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-08-17T15:06:30.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-17T16:14:58.947" Score="12" ViewCount="2825" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm about to start a Dominion-day and need a question answered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do ALL reaction cards completely block all attack cards? i.e. does Tunnel block Witch? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5707" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-08-20T18:07:08.840" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T04:15:26.787" Title="Do all Reaction cards completely block all Attack cards?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12727" CreationDate="2013-08-17T19:50:16.327" Score="24" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Reaction Cards:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. It's not an inherent property of Reaction cards that they protect you from attacks. What makes a card a Reaction is that it's used outside of the normal game sequence when something happens; they don't have to interact with attacks at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moat protects you from attacks because it says it does. Tunnel gives you Gold when discarded, whether or not that is from an attack. Secret Chamber is revealed when an attack is played, but doesn't protect you from it; it just lets you manipulate your deck to attempt to lessen the blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T04:15:26.787" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T04:15:26.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12731" CreationDate="2013-08-17T20:54:54.993" Score="10" ViewCount="2119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there was some thought put into how Go looks or feels like if it's not plaey on a flat, rectangular surface, but the surface of a 3-d object like a sphere or a donut. I'm mostly interested in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How is the grid mapped to the surface, so that every node has 4 neighbors (the number of neighbors is important for how hard it is to capture stones)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What does the absence of a border and corners mean for the game?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What are variants that are actually taken seriously as a game and played, and not only seen as obscure applications of weird topologies?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5085" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T06:01:46.863" Title="What are examples of Go played on non-flat surfaces, like on a sphere?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2013-08-18T15:09:09.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most games that I play have rules that have been very carefully play tested, and which can be parsed carefully for a correct interpretation. &#xA;Assuming this to be true, then the sequence described in this rule is very clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After you attack, you may give yourself 2 points of damage to attack the same character again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charles attacks;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charles reveals the special ability, and gives himself 2 damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charles performs the second attack allowed by the special ability (but, as per the other rules, &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; if still alive).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T15:09:09.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12729" CreationDate="2013-08-18T15:25:05.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started writing another comment, but it got too large, so I'm putting this as an answer instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/q/470352/1750&quot;&gt;Your other question&lt;/a&gt; suggests that you're envisaging playing go on the surface of an actual sphere/torus. In particular that question mentions that you want &quot;all nodes more or less equidistant&quot;.  Searching on the internet, I didn't find much evidence that this is how go is played on other topologies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few reasons why I doubt torus/sphere go has been played on actual spheres or tori. Firstly - who has a suitable torus lying around that they could use? Secondly - getting the stones to stay in place would be awkward, and examining the position would be even worse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead I suggest that the usual* way to convert a flat board game into one on a sphere/torus/Klein bottle is by imagining that the edges are joined up.  For some diagrams of how the edges of the board should be joined see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surface#Construction_from_polygons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a few references to playing tic tac toe and gomoku (5-in-a-row) on different surfaces, and one to &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?3don2dgoban&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;playing go&lt;/a&gt;.  All of these assumed a standard square grid with the edges defined to be connected in some way.  The main differences from standard go seem to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fewer corners and edges: A cylindrical board has just two edges, and a torus or Klein bottle surface game has no corners or edges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lack of corners and edges makes it harder to create immortal groups.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did also come across a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youdzone.com/go.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;game of go on a cylindrical surface&lt;/a&gt; which was not just made of a standard board with edges connected. Each point still has four liberties, but the regions between edges are not all square:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AjPiV.gif&quot; alt=&quot;cylindrical board projected onto a square&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I'm not sure a 'usual' actually exists here, but this is at least the usual way to draw diagrams on these surfaces in mathematics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:19:19.487" LastActivityDate="2013-08-18T15:25:05.737" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11312" CreationDate="2013-08-19T15:28:16.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ebay is a good way to offload cards, although the &quot;value&quot; you get is sometimes questionable. For example, the Future Enterprise can sell for anything from £20 to £40 depending who is watching/buying, but then you might buy 1,000 cards for £12 and get 2 of them (i've recently won a bid for 1,000+ cards for £22, and the only reason I went this high is because I could see a small stack of cards which i have hardly any from that set!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulk sales will sell the cards quicker, and will get more people at least watching, but you will get less in return. I have tried to sell stacks of 200 randoms starting at £2, but had no interest at all - yet a friend sold half-a-dozen 3/4 card lots for £1-2 each, simply because the buyers could see the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know your cards, it might be worth splitting them into lots of 3/4 Rares, and start these listed at £1 or some similar value. You again will be unlikely to get their full &quot;value&quot; but will get more from a sizable collection than either blind-bulk sales, or holding on to them for a &quot;rainy day&quot; - because as people have said, they are unlikely to increase in price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending what you have... I might even be interested!! :¬D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5711" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T15:28:16.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1824" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:23:30.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Been playing a fair bit of this over the weekend, so here's a few thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems that Story is a bit easier to get than Destiny (and there's a couple effects that convert Destiny to Story, plus some that remove Destiny), so I tend to skew a few points towards Story. I haven't seen a particular reason to skew &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; far away (the furthest I've gone is D7/S13) because there's no guarantee you'll get lots of story points. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The game is fairly random, but there does seem to be some (at least loose) correlation between your choice of reaction and the skills required. So you can work around bad luck to some extent by being a bit more cunning in your opening skill selection and picking reactions that hopefully you have good skills for. (This is admittedly still pretty darned random)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2a. One good way of beating down the randomness is to aim for master-level skills (which let you shortcut the destiny die, and are generally-but-not-always good results), and remember to use any effects that let you skew the game in your favor. (Blessed, Respected, Determined, to name three.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T16:23:30.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12727" CreationDate="2013-08-19T16:59:47.753" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most defense reaction cards are returned to hand after each use as a reaction, and so possession prevents the attack card from affecting you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all reaction cards do this, however. A few have other effects that result in either discarding or trashing the reaction card, which means they can only protect you from the first attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, not all reaction cards are defenses. One simply gives you a gold card when triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T16:59:47.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2013-08-19T17:06:01.090" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boardgamegeek (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com&lt;/a&gt;) has a play reporting feature which can include who played, what position each played, their score, and additional notes. Play notes can be publicly accessed. (It can be a bit of a pain, tho, to find someone else's plays.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does exactly what you're asking for. If the same person reports every time, it's readily viable to find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, one can create a private geeklist which lists the games, instead of using the play reports feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-08-19T17:06:01.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12737" CreationDate="2013-08-20T00:04:24.693" Score="6" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my understanding, after it hits the player, the person in control of the Goblin gets to decide whether it hits the player or planeswalker, but I could be way off. How would it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4911" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T01:32:29.607" Title="Does Goblin Test Pilot hit a Planeswalker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12736" CreationDate="2013-08-20T01:32:29.607" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you do damage to a player outside of combat, you can decide to redirect that to one of that player's planeswalkers instead. This is explained better than I can by &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1222/~/magic%3a-the-gathering%3a-planeswalker&quot;&gt;Wizard's cust-help&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a source you control would deal noncombat damage to an opponent,&#xA;  you may have that source deal that damage to a planeswalker that&#xA;  opponent controls instead. This is a redirection effect: you choose&#xA;  whether to redirect the damage as the redirection effect is applied,&#xA;  and it's subject to the normal rules for ordering replacement effects.&#xA;  The player affected by the damage chooses the order in which to apply&#xA;  such effects, but the controller of the source of the damage chooses&#xA;  whether the damage is redirected. Note that this redirection can't be&#xA;  applied to combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For example, although you can't target a planeswalker with Shock, you can target your opponent with Shock, and then as Shock resolves,&#xA;  choose to have Shock deal its 2 damage to one of your opponent's&#xA;  planeswalkers. If you do, two loyalty counters are removed from that&#xA;  planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can't choose to split the damage between a player and a planeswalker. In the Shock example above, you couldn't have Shock deal&#xA;  1 damage to the player and 1 damage to the planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a source you control would deal damage to you, you can't have that source deal that damage to one of your planeswalkers instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In a Two-Headed Giant game, damage that would be dealt to a player can't be redirected to a planeswalker his or her teammate controls.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-08-20T01:32:29.607" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12739" CreationDate="2013-08-21T16:05:02.267" Score="7" ViewCount="2673" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that we can play X-wing with 4 players. Does anyone know if this requires an expansion, or is it perhaps a house rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2021-02-05T06:25:32.550" LastActivityDate="2021-02-05T15:06:37.377" Title="What is needed to play X-wing with 4 players?" Tags="|house-rules|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12738" CreationDate="2013-08-21T17:30:46.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is structured such that there are shared turn phases.  Everyone's moves happen in a single phase and the order is determined by model statistics.  Then everyone's shooting happens in a single phase and the order is determined by model statistics.  You can basically add as many people to that system as you like and they just take their actions in order based on their model's stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play in two teams of two all you need is to own enough models so that each team member has enough to control that the game is interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play in a free-for-all with more than two players the only house rule required would be determining the tie-breaker for who goes first when two models have tied statistics.  (In the two player game it is always Imperials have the initiative if all other checks are tied, so if there are &quot;imperial&quot; players who are enemies you need a system to break the tie.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T17:30:46.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12715" CreationDate="2013-08-21T22:07:57.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To eliminate some of the randomness and even out the game, you could try a few different things.  Some of ideas I'm listing are for cases of different skill levels, and some are for making the game even between relatively equal skill players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as a caveat, I've come up with all of these ideas after playing a lot of scrabble, and I don't usually play with any of them because I feel like they break the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.If one player is better at winning with certain word lengths (ie his 2 and 3 word knowledge is better than his opponents) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handicap certain word lengths played.  Examples:&#xA;A.No bonus for clearing your stand&#xA;B.Less points for x letter words played by one player, where x is a chosen word length&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.If one player somehow gets all of the 10 point and 8 point letters and is able to use them for extremely high scoring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scale the scoring:&#xA;You'd need to keep track of each turn, and each word played/scored on during that turn.&#xA;At the end of the game, you normalize based on the rarity of the tiles you played.  The player who didn't play any 10's will have two of his highest scoring tiles bumped up to 10 points points, if there is more than a 3 way tie between his top scoring tiles, then the opponent chooses which ones get bumped up.   The same goes for if a player didn't play any 8's, or 5's.  No scaling needs to be done for letters with less score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.Disallow Hooking scores for experienced players (only letters in one direction can be scored on a single turn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.Remove Z, Q, J, X, K, Blanks, S and any other letters you find useful.  Shake up the remaining tiles and distribute them evenly between the two players.  Then divide the remaining high scoring or highly useful tiles between the two players.  This will help eliminate randomness.  You can always play a mirror match after, with the tiles your opponent played with.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5.Both players play with Identical sets of Scrabble tiles.  The tiles are still drawn randomly from a pouch (or other container). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.Play best of 3 or more.  This is usually a good remedy that eliminates randomness as an excuse for losing/winning.  Take the three scores and normalize them so they are evenly weighted&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.Tile Swaps when you have no vowels will not end your turn, Tile swaps when you swap 3 of a kind will not end your turn.  This also means you should limit Tile swaps to once per turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.Prove a word can't be played with x tiles from your stand.  You place the tiles in front of the other player.  If he can't form (or doesn't want to form) a word with them within a certain time limit then you swap the letters and continue your turn, you can do this once per turn.  If the opponent can create a word out of your letters, then you must play that word on the board, but do not get any points for it.  This kind of system is usually in favor of the more skilled wordsmith.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9.Standby Tiles:  Leave a second set of scrabble tiles on standby.  Whenever a player plays a word the opponent can choose one letter in that word, and pull it from the standby set of tiles to be used in their next turn.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variant of this would be to swap one of your tiles with a tile from that set.  In this way, there always exists a set of tiles to swap from.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you'll never be denied access to any one specific tile in a game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T22:07:57.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2013-08-21T22:13:30.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an App that keeps score for you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nolanlawson.keepscore&amp;amp;hl=en://&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keep Score - Score Keeper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-08-21T22:13:30.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12750" CreationDate="2013-08-22T04:03:16.537" Score="4" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most races in Twilight Imperium need to wait a whole round in order to build a Space Dock from the moment they take control of a system, that is because of the following requirement in the rules (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The active player must have controlled &lt;strong&gt;the planet&lt;/strong&gt; for the entire&#xA;  current round. Thus, it is not possible to build a Space Dock on a&#xA;  planet that has just been acquired during the current round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Saar do not build their Space Docks on planets, as specified on their racial sheet. So, can they build a Space Dock wherever they want immediately as they control a system, or do they need to wait a round like all other races?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:17:52.110" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:17:52.110" Title="Do the Saar need to wait a whole round to build a Space Dock?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12754" CreationDate="2013-08-22T04:09:27.497" Score="2" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules specify that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ground Forces destroyed by bombardment are removed immediately, do not receive return fire, and will not participate in the upcoming Invasion Combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some political cards, action cards and special abilities refer to &quot;When invading a planet with a Ground Force on it&quot;. So, if one invades a planet with Ground Forces on it, bombards them to death and then have a successful invasion, does that count for &quot;when invading a planet with Ground Forces on it&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sure, the Ground Forces did not count for the &lt;em&gt;invasion combat&lt;/em&gt;, but they might count for the &lt;em&gt;invasion&lt;/em&gt; itself as a whole..?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4942" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:20:10.763" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:20:10.763" Title="Do bombardment counts for &quot;invading planets&quot;?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4538" CreationDate="2013-08-22T06:10:19.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can capture the mountain mines, then it might be worth it to keep dwarves (along with victory points stacked on the race) - remember that the mines will give you bonus &lt;strong&gt;even in decline&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T06:10:19.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12774" CreationDate="2013-08-22T17:22:20.490" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conquest of Planet Earth is an homage to every bad science fiction movie: bug-eyed aliens are trying to take over Earth, ostensibly because their Overlords said so. (Personally, I think it's just that &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/MarsNeedsWomen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mars Needs Women&lt;/a&gt;, or possibly &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/BlueAndOrangeMorality&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mars Needs After-Dinner Mints&lt;/a&gt;.) You play as the aliens, crushing the Hunam resistance and conquering various bits of the planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the game, various events can place tokens belonging to the human military on top of locations. Because the Random Number God hates you, those tokens can appear on top of places that you've already conquered, but don't have any units in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens when a Hunam military token lands on a location you've conquered?&lt;/strong&gt; I couldn't find any rules stating that the location is un-conquered. There's rules about starting a combat immediately if you have a unit there (which might kill the alien), but nothing about changing the state of conquest if you lose the combat. The battle rules make the implicit assumption that the aliens are invading the human space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(As a side note, there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; rules for Resistance Counters un-conquering Locations, but only in the Cooperative game where the aliens work together and the Hunam Resistance is weak. In the Competitive game, where the aliens are competing to get to 8 victory points first, there aren't any rules for this. The Cooperative rules are explicitly &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; part of the Competitive rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T19:30:43.283" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T03:06:22.933" Title="What happens when a military token is placed on a conquered location during a Competitive game?" Tags="|conquest-of-planet-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12749" CreationDate="2013-08-22T18:36:09.887" Score="10" ViewCount="5166" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 5- or 6-player game of King of Tokyo, there are two spaces in Tokyo: the city, and Tokyo Bay. Normally, if a monster is inside Tokyo, and a monster outside Tokyo attacks, the monster in Tokyo has the option to leave Tokyo, yielding to the outside monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this change if there are two monsters in Tokyo? If a monster outside Tokyo attacks while there are two monsters in Tokyo, can both monsters yield, leaving Tokyo Bay empty? Or is one of the monsters forced to stay behind and take another beating before they can leave?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-08-22T23:42:39.917" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T23:42:39.917" Title="Can both monsters in Tokyo yield at the same time after an attack?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11800" CreationDate="2013-08-22T19:27:39.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the opponents are using standard defense signals, there may be ways to read the count in the discards that they play.  High-Low being the signal for even count while Low-High is the signal for an odd count.  Thus, you need to get a couple of discards in various suits in order to get an idea of where other cards are as over the course of the first handful of rounds, it may not always be possible to look for the signals though there is something to be said for reading into what defense is playing and extrapolating from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3318" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T19:27:39.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12624" CreationDate="2013-08-22T20:15:21.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Arthur,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1st:  Go here:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.draftmagic.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Draft Magic&lt;/a&gt;  Lots of card &quot;Spoilers&quot; here.  Set overviews, and strategies.  There is a lot of video content on this website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2nd: Take the time to read the following article.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtgshops.com/posts/-booster-draft-101-b-r-e-a-d-/6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Booster Draft 101 B. R. E. A. D.&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept was mentioned in a comment by Affe.  The article referenced has a great description of each step, which I will summarize here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B (Bombs) - Creatures, or cards that allow you to take control of the game, or win outright.  These are game changing cards, and are usually pretty obvious.  They tend to be rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;R (Removal) - Cards that remove threats effectively, especially the aforementioned bombs.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E (Evasive/Efficient) - Creatures that are difficult to block/kill, or creatures that pass a &quot;Vanilla test&quot;.  Which is to compare their casting cost and power and toughness to a plain 2/2 for 2 mana, 2/2 for 3 mana, or 3/3 for 4 mana.  Does the card have a better (more stats for less mana) ratio than the &quot;Vanilla&quot; examples?  If it does, then it's probably more efficient, unless there is some other downside.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A (Aggressive/Card Advantage) - Creatures you can attack with (article suggests 14 to 18 creatures in a consistent draft deck)  This will depend on the set.  Card advantage cards would be cards that allow you to have more cards than the opponent, so cards that let you draw cards, or discard opponents cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D (dregs) - This refers to cards you would use in very specific situations to counter something.  A card you would put in a sideboard.  Maybe a card that destroys all plains, or a card that removes all blue creatures from play, or destroys all artifacts.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I hope this helps.  Go read!  Then I would recommend going to a draft and having fun!  Before the draft starts you should ask other players about cards to look out for in the set you'll be drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found that a mixture of talking to friends, and reading articles about sets, and draft strategies really helped my draft skills a lot.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T20:15:21.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12746" CreationDate="2013-08-22T23:04:05.917" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iellogames.com/download/KOT-US-Rules-low.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the monster in Tokyo Bay is attacked it can choose to abandon Tokyo Bay. In this case the monster that attacked must move in unless it is moving into Tokyo City, in which case Tokyo Bay becomes temporarily unoccupied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both monsters yield, as this indicates, the attacker would move into Tokyo City and Tokyo Bay would become temporarily unoccupied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-08-22T23:04:05.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12742" CreationDate="2013-08-23T00:07:52.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 10 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twilight Imperium FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (version 2.5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: What are the restrictions for building a Saar Space Dock?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: The player must control 1 planet in the system per space dock he wishes to&#xA;  build. Trade stations do not count towards this restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this the Saar need to have control of a planet, so I would think that why the rule you quoted on needing to have controlled the planet for the entire round would apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T00:07:52.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12743" CreationDate="2013-08-23T01:20:18.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that it would count. I agree that the &lt;em&gt;invasion Combat&lt;/em&gt; is simply a part of the action of &lt;em&gt;invasion&lt;/em&gt; and that the Ground Forces exist after the invasion has begun.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that this is partly supported by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Is landing on a neutral planet considered an invasion for the purposes of “Imperial Peace”?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. Planetary landings on neutral planets are considered invasions&#xA;  for the purposes of Action and Political Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer shows that &lt;em&gt;invasions&lt;/em&gt; still count even when &lt;em&gt;invasion combat&lt;/em&gt; does not occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T01:20:18.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12752" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-23T09:20:10.050" Score="9" ViewCount="2862" Body="&lt;p&gt;Properties of value x have mortgage value x/2 and unmortgage value 11x/20, for 27 of the properties this is an exact dollar value but Park Place is special.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cost M$350, Mortgage M$175, unmortgage M$192.5. Half dollars don't exist and would never be useful EXCEPT in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official ruling for the unmortgage cost of Park Lane? I've always played it as $193 but an argument came up when an opponent only had M$592 and wanted to put houses on Mayfair and Park Lane and unmortgage Park lane on the same turn, it made a difference of M$105 rent the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5729" LastActivityDate="2020-04-09T22:31:26.243" Title="What is the cost of Unmortgaging Park Lane / Park Place in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12752" CreationDate="2013-08-23T12:20:45.237" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You round up. So the unmortgage cost of Park Place is $193.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00114.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; for the electronic banking version of monopoly have this specifically listed in the mortgage rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;page 12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repaying a mortgage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  You must pay the original mortgage amount plus 10% interest (&lt;strong&gt;rounded up to the nearest 10,000&lt;/strong&gt;). Once the mortgage is repaid, turn the Title Deed card faceup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;emphasis mine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this version you start with $15Million instead of the normal $1500, so the nearest $10,000 is equivalent to $1 in other versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T09:48:49.230" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T09:48:49.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12743" CreationDate="2013-08-23T13:25:50.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (pg. 12) refer to the term &amp;quot;invasion&amp;quot; as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hostile Landing (also called an &amp;quot;Invasion&amp;quot;):&lt;/strong&gt; A player lands units on a planet containing one or more of an enemy player's Ground Force units. This will result in an Invasion Combat during the Invasion Combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player lands units on a planet that is controlled by an opponent, but does not contain any enemy Ground Forces&lt;/strong&gt;, the planet falls without resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only three types of landings, Friendly, Neutral, or Hostile (&amp;quot;Invasion&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-23T13:25:50.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12758" CreationDate="2013-08-23T17:39:29.310" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Conquest of Planet Earth, the players are (usually green) bug-eyed space aliens doing the thing in the game title. There are ray guns, superheroes, strange events and, more to the point, temporal anomalies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the text of the Temporal Anomaly card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLAY IMMEDIATELY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard all Location cards on the board that do not currently have an Alien or marker on them, then shuffle all discard piles back into their respective decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Capitol City lives in the middle of the board; it's put there at the beginning of the game. (All other locations are dealt from the Locations deck once someone moves a ship to an empty space.) It's pretty common for the Capitol City to have no Alien or conquest marker on it. (The capitol city is worth 5 victory points, in a game where victory happens at 8 points. It's also the best-defended location in the game.) However, the Capitol City is a truly singular card; it's a Location, but it quite definitely doesn't go in the Locations deck, because it's a double-sided card. (The other side is the Historical Monument, worth fewer victory points and less well-defended. If you play with that, it makes the game less of a race for the capitol.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Capitol City &amp;quot;can't&amp;quot; go in the Locations deck, what happens to it if it's unclaimed when Temporal Anomaly is drawn? Do you flip it to the other side? Randomly decide whether to flip it? Keep it intact? Shuffle it into the Locations deck anyway? Discard it, &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; put it in the deck, and the Capitol City will never be seen again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T06:25:18.873" Title="What happens to the Capitol City during a Temporal Anomaly?" Tags="|conquest-of-planet-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12757" CreationDate="2013-08-24T03:35:08.233" Score="9" ViewCount="6079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just stumbled across a card I've never seen, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6550&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Piracy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;UU, Sorcery&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Until end of turn, you may tap lands you don't control for mana. Spend this mana only to cast spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would have been interesting back in the days of mana burn, but now it seems like this card boils down to &lt;em&gt;&quot;Tap all mana-producing lands your opponents control&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. I can't see a situation where the opposing player's correct response wouldn't be to simply tap all their lands. If they don't, Piracy's controller can just do it. Or can they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spend this mana only to cast spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean they can't just float the mana and not use it? I would think that you could since it says &lt;em&gt;spend&lt;/em&gt; which implies that the restriction is only on what you actually spend the mana on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my take on this card correct? (and is there anything interesting you can do with this?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-03-07T19:33:45.290" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T01:56:40.130" Title="How does Piracy work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12756" CreationDate="2013-08-24T05:37:07.000" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The correct response as an opponent is to tap all lands they control.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, &lt;strong&gt;fizzle&lt;/strong&gt; means to counter a spell on resolution. This is the result of a spell having zero legal targets. This spell isn't targeted, so it cannot fizzle. Since the Magic 2010 rules changes, mana burn no longer exists, so your opponents can just tap all their lands for mana to prevent someone else using the mana to cast their own spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponents allow the spell to resolve and take no actions, the player that cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Piracy&quot;&gt;Piracy&lt;/a&gt; is likely the active player, which means that they would receive priority to cast spells. This would allow them to use any opponent's land to pay for casting their own spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there isn't anything interesting you can do with this spell now, it is a {U}{U} spell that taps your opponents out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T05:37:07.000" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12755" CreationDate="2013-08-24T06:25:18.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Objective Location Card&lt;/strong&gt; is unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/conquestofplanetearth/pdf/COPE_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules differentiate&lt;/a&gt; between regular Location cards, and the Objective Location card. (Page 2) Game Contents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;35 Card Location Deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Double-Sided Objective Location Card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You clearly cannot turn it over, since the rules tell you don't use the Historic Monument in the same game as the Capitol City (page 7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On the back side of this Objective Location card is the &lt;em&gt;Historic Monument&lt;/em&gt; which can be used as an alternate Objective in later games once you have gotten a handle of the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-24T06:25:18.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-24T15:35:42.403" Score="8" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play duplicate bridge, and have recently begun studying the Precision bidding system on my own.  Precision was invented by C.C. Wei in the 1960's with Truscott's assistance, and was used with great success by the Taiwanese and Italians at the world championship level during the late 1960s and early 1970s, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how beginning bridge is taught these days in those countries, Taiwan and Italy.  Of course, Standard American and Two-Over-One are the main methods taught in the U.S., and, for example, our Bridge Club has yet to offer Precision Bidding lessons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that in Taiwan and Italy Precision is taught in beginning bridge lessons, but I am having a difficult time confirming this on the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5735" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-04T19:02:17.900" LastActivityDate="2019-04-04T19:02:17.900" Title="How is bridge for beginners taught in Taiwan or Italy today, Precision or another method?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|teaching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12770" CreationDate="2013-08-25T02:24:15.410" Score="13" ViewCount="10466" Body="&lt;p&gt;The barbarians come, and the player with the least amount of active knights has a city and 5 settlements on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The city would normally get knocked down to a settlement, but all of his settlements are already on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5497" LastEditorUserId="5231" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T13:40:41.853" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T23:40:58.517" Title="Cities and Knights: Lose to a barbarian attack, but no settlements." Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2013-08-25T10:44:35.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the games we play I turn the city upside down (to act as a marker for a town) and declare the village supply to be at &lt;code&gt;-1&lt;/code&gt;. The player will need to build at least two cities before (s)he can build another new village. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried finding an official ruling, but it does not seem to be mentioned in a manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 11 only has this, which completely ignores this not-quite-so-rare situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eyVTU.png&quot; alt=&quot;Part of page 11&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit] The computer game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.de/spiel/catan-staedte-ritter-fuer-pc-und-mac?start=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan: Cities and knight&lt;/a&gt; from Catan GmbH seems to agree with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5231" LastEditorUserId="5231" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T11:05:49.073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T11:05:49.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12769" CreationDate="2013-08-25T11:56:03.373" Score="7" ViewCount="13391" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bloodrush is confusing my friends and I. Suppose I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/167.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ghor-Clan Rampager&lt;/a&gt; in my hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I cast Bloodrush from my hand (discarding Ghor-Clan Rampager straight from there), without first having summoned Ghor-Clan Rampager to the battlefield? If so:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it be cast from the had as an instant?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why is this the case?&lt;/em&gt; Can activated abilities really be used &lt;em&gt;from the hand&lt;/em&gt;, or is there just something special about Bloodrush?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're having genuine trouble understanding definitively whether it can be used from the hand or not. I'd imagine that as an activated ability, the creature has to actually be summoned first, but then there's this quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/228#4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Gatecrash mechanics feature on Wizards&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The warriors of the scattered Gruul Clans spend a lot of time fighting for territory, for loot, or simply for enjoyment. &lt;strong&gt;A creature with a bloodrush ability is so eager to get into the fight, it might not even wait for you to cast it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to know whether this is flavoursome description for which our interpretation has gone awry, or an author writing about how a creature with Bloodrush actually doesn't have to be on the battlefield before you use its ability. Plus &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10912/5573&quot;&gt;this answer about Bloodlust&lt;/a&gt; quotes rule 602.2a which talks about using abilities from hidden zones, but that might not be the hand. We're trying to stick to the Basic Rules though and not overcomplicate things, and I can't find what those have to say about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T14:56:00.110" Title="Can I cast Bloodrush from my hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12764" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12766" CreationDate="2013-08-25T12:56:12.110" Score="4" ViewCount="14685" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uno_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wild - Player declares next color to be matched (may be used on any turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this player discards a Wild card and announces the next color, must he discard another card, or does the player next to him proceed to discard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T14:50:31.883" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T14:50:31.883" Title="After playing a Wild card, must a player discard again?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-25T13:09:11.280" Score="10" ViewCount="5886" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started playing Uno. What are the most important strategies that might improve my game? Of course luck is important, but I'm trying to do better than crossing my fingers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, before and after a player announces &quot;Uno&quot;, should my play be different? While there's a &quot;wild&quot; card, how should I decide which color to switch to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@paul-marshall thanks for the reply. I understand that normally i shall change color to the one that i have most cards -- but is there any occasion that i shouldn't do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the wild card, let's say now i have one blue, one yellow, and one wild card, and the table is playing red. shall i use wild card to change color (to blue or yellow), or, just hold the card and hope i could discard yellow and blue later? is there some thumb rule when shall use wild card and when not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-20T05:27:48.543" LastActivityDate="2019-12-20T05:27:48.543" Title="How can I do better than chance in Uno?" Tags="|uno|statistics|tactics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12764" CreationDate="2013-08-25T13:21:55.973" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;He will not discard second card this round. The wild card was his play. Play proceeds to the next player with the new colour selected. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T13:21:55.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2013-08-25T13:56:35.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blood rush is an activated ability of a card. Therefore it is cast at instant speed like any other ability. The only time blood rush can be used is from your hand.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card with blood rush was on the battlefield as a creature, you could not 'discard' it and thus could not activate that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bloodrush is just like cycling. They are both abilities of a card, not a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally activated abilities can not be used from the hand because they are part of the creature that a card becomes. Because Bloodrush and cycling depend on the card being discarded, they are an activated ability of the card not the creature and thus can only be used from the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;207.2c An ability word appears in italics at the beginning of some abilities. Ability words are similar to keywords in that they tie&#xA;  together cards that have similar functionality, but they have no&#xA;  special rules meaning and no individual entries in the Comprehensive&#xA;  Rules. The ability words are battalion, bloodrush, channel, chroma,&#xA;  domain, fateful hour, grandeur, hellbent, imprint, join forces,&#xA;  kinship, landfall, metalcraft, morbid, radiance, sweep, and threshold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T14:02:01.130" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T14:02:01.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12763" CreationDate="2013-08-25T14:07:26.313" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bloodrush is an activated ability that you can activate &lt;em&gt;from your hand&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; from your hand.&lt;/strong&gt; You cannot use bloodrush if the card is already on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most ability in Magic are only used from the battlefield, but abilities with costs that only apply in other zones, like &quot;Discard this card,&quot; &quot;Reveal this card from your hand,&quot; or &quot;Exile this card from your graveyard,&quot; can only be activated from those other zones instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an in-depth explanation, let's look at the text of Ghor-Clan Rampager:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bloodrush&lt;/em&gt; — {R}{G}, Discard Ghor-Clan Rampager: Target attacking creature gets +4/+4 and gains trample until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, note how Bloodrush is italicized on the card. That means it's reminder text, not rules text. Specifically, it's an &quot;ability word&quot; (207.2c in the comp rules). I'm only pointing this out because it means that, unlike trample or deathtouch, the word itself doesn't imply any extra rules. &lt;strong&gt;Everything&lt;/strong&gt; about bloodrush is printed right on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;:&quot; indicates that it's an &lt;em&gt;activated ability&lt;/em&gt; &amp;mdash; pay a cost, get an effect. However, how do you &lt;em&gt;discard&lt;/em&gt; a creature that's on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.7a To discard a card, move it from its owner’s hand to that player’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer is, you don't. You can only discard the card while it's in your hand. Which means...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack.&#xA;  Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The&#xA;  exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6i An object’s activated ability that has a cost that can’t be paid while the object is on the&#xA;  battlefield functions from any zone in which its cost can be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, because the ability says &quot;discard Ghor-Clan Rampager&quot; as a cost, you can activate it from your hand, even though most abilities are only used from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other things to note about bloodrush, based on the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using bloodrush is activating an ability, &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; casting a spell. It still goes on the stack but it doesn't trigger &quot;When a spell is cast&quot; triggers and can't be countered by cards that say &quot;Counter target spell.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't activate the ability at all without an appropriate target (an &lt;em&gt;attacking&lt;/em&gt; creature, in this case).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T14:56:00.110" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T14:56:00.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12761" CreationDate="2013-08-25T14:23:06.510" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You turn your city marker, and treat it as if it were a settlement. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4806-barbarians-iii-players-are-defeated-what-happens-if-i-have-downgrade-city-settlement-dont&quot;&gt;Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions Barbarians III: Players are Defeated&#xA;  - What happens if I have to downgrade a city to a settlement but don’t have another settlement in stock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Answer Turn one of your cities on its side and treat it as a&#xA;  settlement until you have upgraded it to a city again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-08-25T14:54:46.230" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T14:54:46.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2013-08-25T16:44:11.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Erlend Janbu's variant South America v. 3.2 for four players was designed with the explicit aim &quot;to create a variant where there are no stalemate lines.&quot; In a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/Zine/F2001M/Janbu/SouthAmerica.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2001 article&lt;/a&gt; on the variant he admits that he does not know for sure whether there is a stalemate line in his variant, but &quot;I and others have searched, and after 100 games, no game has ended in a stalemate.&quot; He claims in that article that only &quot;[f]ew variants are stalemate-free,&quot; but unfortunately he does not name any. Until one could prove that there is indeed a stalemate line in the South America variant, the answers to your main questions should be positive: yes, it is possible to design a stalemate-free board and yes, it has been done before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how the lack of stalemates would affect the game, it might be worth reading what Andy Schwarz has written on his variant Hundred (based on the Hundred Year's War). As he wrote in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/Zine/F1996M/Schwarz/hundf96m.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; from 1996, &quot;eliminating draws was a big part of the design of Hundred.&quot; This has encouraged solo wins and alliances-shifts, making the game very dynamic. This should also apply to any variant which reduces or eliminates stalemates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to variants which avoid stalemates by means of changes to the rules, Stephen Agar wrote about this specifically in his article from 1992, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.variantbank.org/articles/designing_maps.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Designing Maps for Diplomacy Variants&lt;/a&gt;,&quot; where he notes that &quot;[s]ome variants avoid stalemate lines through the rule mechanics.&quot; The only example which he gives is the Multiplicity variant, where multiple units can occupy a single space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5738" LastEditorUserId="5738" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T19:04:03.180" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:04:03.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12765" CreationDate="2013-08-25T19:16:17.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're trying to run out of cards, and the opportunities to change colors are somewhat limited. Your goal, therefore, should be to play the last card of one of your colors, then be able to switch to another color you have on the next play. This doesn't always work, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When changing colors (via wild or matching the card), you should switch to the color that you have the most of. Switching to the color that you have the most cards in gives you the best chance to &quot;even out&quot; your hand; if you're stuck with 7 cards in your hand, it will be easier to play when you have 2 yellows, 2 reds, and 3 greens than to play when you have 5 yellows and 2 reds. Note that it will be easy to &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt; one card when you have a four-card hand consisting of one of each color, but it will be hard to &lt;em&gt;go out&lt;/em&gt; with such a hand: changing colors is somewhat difficult, and you can't count on it happening when you want it to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When somebody calls &quot;Uno,&quot; it's best to assume that their last card is the same color as the previous card they played; otherwise, the player going out is hoping against hope for a lucky play. Therefore, you change the color in play after somebody calls &quot;Uno,&quot; by whatever means is handy. (Or inflict a Draw Two or Draw Four Wild against them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-08-25T19:16:17.337" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12745" CreationDate="2013-08-26T03:06:22.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Conquest Marker remains&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You couldn't find any rules about unconquering the location, because you do not do so. This is supported by several rules in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/conquestofplanetearth/pdf%5CCOPE_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;. Page 16, under &lt;strong&gt;Resistance Counters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally a card will call for one or more Resistance Counters to be placed onto the board. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moving Into a Space with Resistance Counters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move Aliens onto a Space with one or more Resistance Counters, you will need to Fight those Resistance Counters during your Battle Phase in addition to the normal Resistance drawn for that Location. &lt;strong&gt;If the Location has already been conquered (and has a Conquest Marker on it), you must still fight the Resistance Counters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, nothing happens to your Conquest Marker, but if you or an opponent enter the Location they will have to fight the Resistance Token. This is further supported by the rules for stealing Terror Points from an opponent, replacing their Conquest Marker with your own, on page 17 under:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stealing Conquests&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player ever has one or more Aliens in a Location with an opponent’s Conquest Marker during their own Battle Phase (and there are no enemies present)&lt;/strong&gt;, that player may simply replace the opponent’s Conquest Marker with their own, &lt;strong&gt;stealing the glory and the Terror Points for themselves&lt;/strong&gt;. Note that this swap of markers only happens during your Battle Phase and &lt;strong&gt;only if there are no enemies&lt;/strong&gt; currently at that Location (Alien &lt;strong&gt;or Resistance&lt;/strong&gt;). Also note that this only happens in the Battle Phase, so simply moving through a Location with another player’s Conquest Marker during your Action Phase will NOT swap it for your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T03:06:22.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12777" CreationDate="2013-08-26T05:31:31.497" Score="1" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Text on card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Slivers cannot be the target of spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that other slivers cannot affect each other, while Crystalline Sliver is in play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Fury Sliver won't give double strike to all slivers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5739" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T18:23:36.730" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T18:23:36.730" Title="Crystalline Sliver and targets" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12765" CreationDate="2013-08-26T05:48:25.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of pointers from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8442/what-rules-changes-have-there-been-in-uno/8488#8488&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Keep your score low&lt;/strong&gt;: The winner is determined by whomever scores 500 points first, or in the variation Running Player Totals, by whomever has the lowest total points when someone reaches 500. A good strategy is always try to play your highest value card if you can (other than a Wild/Wild-Draw-4, since at least one of those can be played when a player calls UNO), or to switch to a color that has the most points in that color in your hand. (I.e. if the top card of the discard is a red 5, and you have a red-6, red-0, blue-5, blue-7, the best play to keep your score lowest is probably the blue-5. Although it is one point higher than the red-6, &quot;blue&quot; has more total points in that color that you need to get rid of.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scoring - When a player goes out, all other players card values are added that players total. First player to 500 points wins. Wild, Wild Draw4: 50 pts, Draw2, Skip, Reverse: 20 pts, All number cards (0-9): Face Value. Variation: Running totals for each player can be kept instead. When one player's total reaches 500 (or some other value), the game is over and the player with the least points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Maximize playable cards&lt;/strong&gt; - While &lt;strong&gt;Paul Marshall&lt;/strong&gt; points out that you should try to even out colors, you should also try to even out numbers and word cards (numbers/names are a lot less probable with 25 cards of each color, and only 8 of each name/number other than 0). Each extra differently named/numbered card reduces unplayable discards (I.e. With only two cards left, if they are differently numbered and colored, there are only 42/100 unplayable cards (not counting Wilds). If the two cards are different colors, but are the same number/name then there are 46/100 unplayable cards). Additionally, if you have lots of a particular named/numbered card, then there are fewer of those in the deck or players hands, which also reduces the likelihood that you can play them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play Draw cards when going out&lt;/strong&gt; - If you can manage to go out on a Wild Draw-4 or a Draw 2, those cards are added to an opponents hand before scores are calculated. These additional card draws add on average 11.48 points/card to your score. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attack the leader&lt;/strong&gt; - This is only easy if you sit adjacent to them. You can choose to play &lt;strong&gt;Wild Draw-4&lt;/strong&gt; cards, even if you have a playable color. If you aren't caught, the person about to win just drew 4 cards. If you are caught though, you draw 4 and likely added 46 points to their score. If not adjacent to a player, you can choose to change colors if the leader called UNO and chose the color themselves (makes it less likely to have the right color).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reneg instead of using Wilds&lt;/strong&gt; If you have 3-4 cards left, in different colors, with a Wild, it might make sense to &lt;strong&gt;Reneg&lt;/strong&gt; and draw a card instead of giving up the wild. When you &lt;strong&gt;Reneg&lt;/strong&gt;, you can only play the card you draw, but you have approximately (24+8+7)/108=35% chance of drawing a playable card (24 other cards of that color, 7 other wilds, 7 other cards of that number/name.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these strategies conflict with others, so the state of the game will determine what the proper action to take is. For example, if you have many more cards than an opponent who is sitting on 3 cards, you should probably start getting rid of your high point Wild-Draw 4 card (50 points instead of the average 46). Draw 2 actually has a worse average payout for an opponent than making another player draw two cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T05:48:25.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12775" CreationDate="2013-08-26T05:59:59.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Oracle text of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crystalline%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Crystalline Sliver&lt;/a&gt; now says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Slivers have shroud. (They can't be the targets of spells or abilities.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It applies to all Slivers, not &lt;strong&gt;all other slivers&lt;/strong&gt;. (Which, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5B%22All%20other%22%5D%7C%7Ctext=+%5B%22All%20other%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;would be worded&lt;/a&gt; that way if that is what they meant.) It means precisely what the reminder text (or the cards old text) says, Sliver creatures &lt;strong&gt;cannot be targeted&lt;/strong&gt; by spells or abilities that have &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; in the rules text. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fury%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Fury Sliver&lt;/a&gt; still gives Slivers &lt;strong&gt;double strike&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Muscle Sliver&lt;/a&gt; still grants Slivers a +1/+1 Power/Toughness bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it does prevent is Spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Assassinate&quot;&gt;Assassinate&lt;/a&gt; from targeting a tapped Sliver, or Slivers with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5B%22Target%20sliver%22%5D%7C%7Ctext=+%5B%22Target%20sliver%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;activated or triggered abilities&lt;/a&gt; (or any other Activated or Triggered Abilities) from targeting Slivers with their abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T14:22:24.630" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T14:22:24.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12785" CreationDate="2013-08-26T12:50:31.237" Score="5" ViewCount="2663" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Smash Up the wording on the cards is often critical to how they play. Unfortunately the rules are very light on certain situations and I haven't been able to find an answer online to a situation that arose at a game last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend was using Dinosaurs and Pirates, and was attempting to take the Tsar's Palace base. The bases ability is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Minions of power 2 or less cannot be played here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He then played the Howl card from his hand. This states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each of your minions gains +1 power until the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next he then tried to play a First Mate (Power 2) from his hand onto the Tsar's Palace, under the assumption that it is now Power 3 because of the Howl card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation is that the Howl card, and all action cards, will only affect minions already in play on the table, and not minions in his hand. Therefore the First Mate is still Power 2 until it is played and therefore cannot be played on the Tsar's Palace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;Which of us was right? &lt;strong&gt;Do action cards that affect every minion on the table also affect minions in your hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastEditorUserId="5601" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T12:11:15.813" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T09:47:13.173" Title="Do actions that affect all cards also affect cards in your hand.?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8155" CreationDate="2013-08-26T13:28:12.283" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;@shujaa ok let me try... btw, how to mark steps larger than 9?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea of hane is to exposure white's vulnerable parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Separate black's corner and pincer&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .....87....-&#xA;$$ ...3..251..-&#xA;$$ .......64..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now white cannot cover the cut at A and capture black 1 at the same time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B Black in good shape: thick.&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .....1Oa...-&#xA;$$ ...O.2XOO..-&#xA;$$ ......3XX..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is of course inferior:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W black gets a big corner&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .....1.....-&#xA;$$ ....3XO24..-&#xA;$$ ...O.OXOO..-&#xA;$$ ......XXX..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A possible sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W White's pincer is already hurt&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ......1....-&#xA;$$ ....6XO....-&#xA;$$ ...O2OXOO..-&#xA;$$ ....43XXX..-&#xA;$$ .....5.....-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... to continue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Black escaped at the side&#xA;$$ ------------&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ ......O.5a.-&#xA;$$ ....XXO..3.-&#xA;$$ ...OXOXOO2.-&#xA;$$ ....XOXXX4.-&#xA;$$ .....O.....-&#xA;$$ .......1...-&#xA;$$ ........6..-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;$$ .......,...-&#xA;$$ ...........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;notice here white 5 is a must otherwise black attack at &quot;a&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now white still need sort out the center group. This result favors &lt;strong&gt;black&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastEditorUserId="2821" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T06:04:57.020" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T06:04:57.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12463" CreationDate="2013-08-26T15:07:15.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. The action clarifier makes sure the card is not overpowered--there have to be reprecussions. For the card &quot;Excalibur,&quot; the reprecussion is that you can only play it on your turn. For &quot;Finger of God,&quot; the reprecussion is that it goes back into your hand. Since you have to wait until your next turn to play it again, it is what keeps it in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5733" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T15:07:15.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12782" CreationDate="2013-08-26T16:58:59.423" Score="2" ViewCount="1870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiplomatic%20Immunity%5d&quot;&gt;Diplomatic Immunity&lt;/a&gt; (from Mercadian Masques)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/s7Yrj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Diplomatic Immunity&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says that both the enchantment itself and the creature enchanted can't be target of spells or abilities (called &lt;em&gt;shroud&lt;/em&gt; now, it seems).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I enchant a creature that have, for e.g., &lt;em&gt;R: Gets +1/+0 until end of turn&lt;/em&gt;, will this card block the creature's self-ability also?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Considering any Equipment (which have a cost for equipping on something), does that card block the equip also? If yes, if I equip first then enchant, will the equipment be removed or will it stay shrouded also?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T19:00:05.513" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T19:00:05.513" Title="Diplomatic Immunity, card's self abilities and equipments" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12781" CreationDate="2013-08-26T17:49:41.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Target&lt;/strong&gt; is a special word in Magic; if a spell or ability targets, it will say &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; in the rules text. The only time it doesn't is if it's hidden away inside a keyword - in which case the reminder text for the keyword (if present) will say &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;. (Or I suppose a card subtype - Auras target.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case, the creature doesn't target itself, so that's fine, the ability still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second case, the Equip ability does target, as you can see from its reminder text, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equip {3} ({3}: Attach to target creature you control. Equip only as a sorcery.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says target, so you can't equip your creature. But it only targets as you're activating the ability, so if the equipment is already attached to the creature when you enchant it with Diplomatic Immunity, it'll stay there. You might be interested in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/feature/171&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules summary for Equipment&lt;/a&gt;, which in fact mentions these very things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equip ability can't target a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gigapede&quot;&gt;Gigapede&lt;/a&gt;, because it can't be the target of spells and abilities. There's no real way around this, even though being untargetable wouldn't cause the equipment to fall off. If the Warhammer is equipping a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimmering%20Angel&quot;&gt;Glimmering Angel&lt;/a&gt;, making the Angel untargetable won't make the Warhammer fall off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-08-26T18:10:28.273" LastActivityDate="2013-08-26T18:10:28.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12931" CreationDate="2013-08-26T23:41:58.437" Score="3" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Conquest of Planet Earth, the foolish Humans are resisting the implacable might of several alien overlords, who go about conquering various Locations until the Humans finally give up their doomed efforts. Several Locations give bonuses to the Human Resistance, such as the Train Station, which gives +1 Resistance to adjacent Locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this bonus still apply after the Train Station has been conquered by the ravening alien hordes? Are the Aliens dumb enough to keep the trains running on time, even if the trains are chock-full of weapons, ammunition, recruits, intrepid reporters, Meals Rejected By Ethiopians, teddy bears, and other material that the Resistance needs? Similarly, does the text of other Locations still apply after they've been conquered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do Demolished locations keep their text? (It should be obvious, but I couldn't find anything explicit in the rulebook about this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T03:56:54.760" Title="Do conquered locations still help the Resistance?" Tags="|conquest-of-planet-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2013-08-27T09:40:54.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A thumb rule for amateur players is, if one cannot win handi 2 games, probably he shall not teach. For me, if I can't win handi 3, I'll recommend a stronger teacher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T09:40:54.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2013-08-27T12:10:21.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a similar question on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=229&amp;amp;t=98661#p1316478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aldreac forums&lt;/a&gt;. The question was about targets of actions and minion abilities. The answer given was to treat each location of the game (your hand, the deck, the discard pile and &lt;em&gt;in play&lt;/em&gt;) as separate dimensions. Cards can only affect the &lt;em&gt;in play&lt;/em&gt; dimension unless they specifically state otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst there are is no actual rule in the rule book to state this, the meaning of this is clear if you examine two things. First, the wording on the cards. No card states that it only affects cards in play. They do however state when they target cards out of play, such as in your hand or in the discard pile. From that you can take that unless a card states otherwise, it only affects in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, the game would break if you didn't take that to be the case. Take the Microbot Alpha. It's ability is to make all of your minions Microbots, and it gains +1 for all other Microbots. Now if this affected all cards, those in all other dimensions, then you would instantly pop any base, and could instantly win the game by taking the Factory (+1 VP for every 5 power) when combined with the Microbot Fixer and a couple of other minions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When taking both into consideration, the only logical conclusion is the game must have been written with actions only affecting minions in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T12:10:21.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12765" CreationDate="2013-08-27T13:31:44.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Change colour as much as you can, most players want to maintain the colour as long as they still have cards of that colour and want to change otherwise. A nice way to approach this game is to always change the colour when you can (by number on number or by wild), even if you still have cards of the previous colour. The theory behind this is that on average you'll receive an equal number of cards of every colour. If you deplete yourself of a certain colour you will end up drawing cards when that colour is the current one. Changing colour often results in you having a multi-coloured hand that enables you to always have a playable card, and depend less on luck. Subsequently it minimizes the number of draws that you need to make. And, it annoys the other players which is a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in my comment I disagree with Paul on his theory that the player who calls &quot;Uno&quot; is most likely to have a card of the colour that they just played. Expecially if the card that they just played is a low number. Players tend to get rid of the higher numbers earlier (for obvious reasons). If the Uno caller just played a red &quot;2&quot;, I will most certainly attempt to keep the colour red as I strongly believe that the chance that they have another red card and it being lower than 2 (as players tend to play 2s before they play 1s and 0s) is smaller than the chance that they have any card of another colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking what I'm saying here is that if you want to be less dependent on luck you should likely get yourself familiar with some quick on-the-fly basic statistics that you can apply whilst playing. How many cards of a certain colour have been played already? Is it therefore more likely that the Uno caller has that colour, or not? Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastEditorUserId="3107" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T13:38:59.927" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T13:38:59.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2013-08-27T14:36:42.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing Howl, will not allow First Mate to be played on the Tsar's Palace base.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9949769#9949769&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on BGG, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/46012/mark-wootton&quot;&gt;Mark Wootton&lt;/a&gt;, who appears to be AEG's Director of Company Development said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: &lt;em&gt;What about the Homeworld base ability and the War Raptor? The Homeworld states that when you play a minion on it you can play another minion of Power 2 or less. Is the Raptor a valid play, since before it's added to a base it's Power 2?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: The order of effects is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;To play an extra minion check its power is correct. War Raptor = 2 Power&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Any abilities on that minion trigger. War Raptor becomes 3 (or more) Power &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Trigger any ongoing effects in play e.g Leprechaun or Flame Trap&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So if, for example you had an action played on the base that said &quot;All your minions here gain +2 Power&quot; you could still play a 2 power minion there. Because it is 2 power when it is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base checks first if First Mate is the correct power, &lt;strong&gt;before Howl&lt;/strong&gt; is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I disagree with Mark Wootton's last example, although it is immaterial to the correct answer here. I contend that an Action worded as he suggests would only affect Minions currently &quot;here&quot; at the base. For the Action to affect Minions played later that turn, it would have to be an Ongoing effect (that might be what he meant, as there are Actions that are played on a base with similar effects).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T03:03:28.037" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T03:03:28.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11409" CreationDate="2013-08-27T15:41:04.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not directly the answer but may help you solve your issue.  From the FAQ of www.Mayfairgames.com &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mayfairgames.com/gamesupport/FAQ_bang.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mayfairgames.com/gamesupport/FAQ_bang.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can you explain how Lucky Duke’s ability works? Does he use it&#xA;  every time he draws cards?    A: Lucky Duke can be a little confusing&#xA;  because of an unfortunate limitation in English that does not,&#xA;  apparently, exist in Italian. The problem comes from the definitions&#xA;  of &quot;draw!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your turn, you draw cards and add them to your&#xA;  hand. Lucky Duke's ability has NO EFFECT on this type of draw.&#xA;  Similarly, his ability does not impact Wells Fargo, the Stage Coach,&#xA;  or Panic! In fact, his ability ONLY affects the second meaning of&#xA;  &quot;draw!&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes, like when you have the dynamite, you are called to &quot;draw!&quot;&#xA;  as in &quot;draw, pardner&quot; in a gunfight. It's supposed to be a pun, but it&#xA;  didn't translate so well. In game terms, this means that you flip the&#xA;  top card and look at the suit in the corner to see if you get the&#xA;  result you are hoping for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lucky Duke's ability allows him two chances to get a favorable result&#xA;  during this kind of &quot;draw!&quot; So, if you have dynamite, and you flip&#xA;  over a 3 of spades, Lucky Duke can use his ability to flip the second&#xA;  card to see if it saves him from the dynamite. Then, both &quot;draw!&quot;&#xA;  cards are discarded, just like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T15:41:04.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11409" CreationDate="2013-08-27T17:22:44.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Another possibility:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't follow the letter of the rules, but since it's a translation, I think it might be more appropriate to attempt to follow the spirit of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's several characters (most, even) whose special abilities essentially are like having a &amp;quot;built-in&amp;quot; item. Willy the Kid has a built-in Volcanic, Paul Regret has a built-in Mustang. I think the intention for Lucky Duke is to have built-in Horse Shoes. Although the wording is different on Lucky Duke and Horse Shoes, for any standard single-card &amp;quot;Draw&amp;quot;, the effect of either one is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing with this logic, the correct way for Lucky Duke to use Rum, would be to draw an extra card, for 5 total. And if he has Horse Shoes, then he gets one more for 6. This is much like Jourdonnais, who has a built-in barrel. (Okay, Jourdonnais' ability isn't exactly a barrel since it only applies to Bang! cards, but it's darn close.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't official, but in addition to the reasons above, I think it makes sense from a balance perspective. Lucky Duke definitely shouldn't have a &lt;em&gt;disadvantage&lt;/em&gt; for a luck-based card like Rum, but drawing 8 cards is perhaps &lt;strong&gt;too&lt;/strong&gt; good. See the probability discussion below, and you can decide for yourself how good Lucky Duke's ability should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Probability simulations:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From our comments, I got curious about how much of an advantaged each of these methods would allow. I coded it up and a million simulations of each. As I suspected, the drawing two-at-time method is nicest (but it's not as much of an improvement over drawing 5 and choosing 4 as I would have thought). The means (and standard deviations) are in the table below, and the graph below that shows the distribution of unique suits obtained under each rule. If anyone wants to see the code, leave a comment and I'll edit it into my answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Draw 4   Draw5   Draw 8&#xA;   2.7     3.1      3.3&#xA;  (0.63)  (0.64)   (0.56)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyiSR.png&quot; alt=&quot;rum distribution&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the draw 5 rule and the draw 8 rule you're the odds of gaining 3 life are about the same (58.8% and 59.9%, respectively), but you see an increased chance of only gaining 2 life in the Draw5 rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Gain    Draw 4   Draw5   Draw 8&#xA;2 life    30%      15%      6%&#xA;3 life    58%      59%     60%&#xA;4 life    11%      26%     34%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I abbreviated the draw-2-at-a-time rule to &amp;quot;draw 8&amp;quot;, but I modeled it appropriately as two-at-a-time, picking one of the first 2 randomly, then for each subsequent two cards picking randomly unless one suit was already selected and the other wasn't. Each set of draws was from a 52-card deck with 13 of each suit. I'm not sure exactly how many cards Bang uses, but it's probably close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T23:18:53.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12709" CreationDate="2013-08-27T18:56:15.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might enjoy trying Intrigue.  It is not an attack-heavy set, which is good for your passive play, but it emphasises interaction and choices.  This can pull Dominion away from being so multi-player solitaire.  As others have mentioned, you can choose to not play with specific cards if you find them too attacky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only drawback is that Intrigue is an alternative starter set, so the only way to get it is to also get a new set of base (non-Kingdom) cards (base treasures, base vp cards), at the same cost as the original set.  While this does allow you to play 5 and 6 player games, that doesn't seem like what you are doing anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5742" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T18:56:15.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12793" CreationDate="2013-08-27T19:14:06.510" Score="5" ViewCount="5996" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first Theros god card was &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=533172&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;unofficially spoiled&lt;/a&gt; today. Although it may change, it currently reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thassa, God of the Sea {2U}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legendary Enchantment Creature - God&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indestructible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your devotion to blue is less than five, Thassa isn't a&#xA;creature. (Each U in the mana costs of permanents you control adds to&#xA;your devotion to blue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, scry 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1U: Target creature you control can't be blocked this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks pretty insane. Anyways, my question is would this clause only matter when Thassa is actually on the battlefield? For example if my &amp;quot;devotion to blue&amp;quot; is zero, can I still discard it to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotleth%20Troll&quot;&gt;Lotleth Troll&lt;/a&gt; or return it to my hand with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpse%20Hauler&quot;&gt;Corpse Hauler&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T19:58:55.240" Title="Does Thassa, God of the Sea's &quot;devotion to blue&quot; clause count when it's not in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-27T19:42:34.830" Score="20" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 11 cards and have to play 2. You have 10 cards. My first card to play is the goal &amp;quot;10 Cards in Hand&amp;quot;, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;If someone has 10 or more cards in his or her hand, then the player with the most cards in hand wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of a tie, continue playing until a clear winner emerges.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We now both have 10 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second play is the action &amp;quot;Trade Hands&amp;quot;. Does this take effect immediately (I now have your 10 cards, you now have my remaining 9 and I win) or is there a gap where I have played the card before we swap where I have 9 cards and you have 10 and win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5745" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T15:03:47.037" Title="Do I win or lose if I play &quot;Trade Hands&quot; while tied for &quot;10 Cards in Hand&quot;?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12791" CreationDate="2013-08-27T19:53:28.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the information you presented, it only functions on the battlefield. Even with no devotion to blue, it's a valid target for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotleth%20Troll&quot;&gt;Lotleth Troll&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpse%20Hauler&quot;&gt;Corpse Hauler&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability would only function outside of the battlefield if it was a characteristic-defining ability. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghostfire&quot;&gt;Ghostfire&lt;/a&gt; is colorless in all zones and even when deck building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3. Some static abilities are characteristic-defining abilities. A characteristic-defining ability conveys information about an object’s characteristics that would normally be found elsewhere on that object (such as in its mana cost, type line, or power/toughness box). Characteristic-defining abilities function in all zones. They also function outside the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it fails to meet two of six&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; criteria for a characteristic-defining ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3a A static ability is a characteristic-defining ability if it meets the following criteria: (1) It defines an object’s colors, subtypes, power, or toughness; (2) it is printed on the card it affects, it was granted to the token it affects by the effect that created the token, or it was acquired by the object it affects as the result of a copy effect or text-changing effect; (3) it does not directly affect the characteristics of any other objects; (4) it is not an ability that an object grants to itself; and (5) it does not set the values of such characteristics only if certain conditions are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(1) It defines a characteristic other than the object's colors, subtypes, power and toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(5) It sets the characteristic only if certain conditions are met.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sixth is that it must be a static ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-08-27T19:58:55.240" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T19:58:55.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12792" CreationDate="2013-08-27T19:55:37.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that the effects are an inherent part of playing the card and that there is no 'gap' between playing the card and the card taking effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of games like these, there are certain states that are used, such as 'in your hand' and 'in play'.  There are no intermediate states such as 'in the process of being played', as that would start to make the rules very difficult.  As a result I would say the transition from 'in your hand' to 'played' is immediate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5610" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T19:55:37.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12792" CreationDate="2013-08-27T20:51:43.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/pdf/FluxxRules3.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;to the rules&lt;/a&gt; it comes down to how you interpret &amp;quot;that player wins immediately regardless of who's turn it is&amp;quot; (once the goal conditions are met). Since you have to play the card in order to make the hand swap happen at the point you play the card your hand has 9 and the opponent has 10. They meet the win condition before the action happens and the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also covered somewhat in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;online Fluxx FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Suppose I play Draw 2 and Use 'em and I draw two Goals, and one of them will cause my opponent to win. Can I play the two Goals in instant succession, with the one that doesn't make them win on top, so that they don't get to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; No. Any time a Goal is played, it provides a chance for someone to win with those conditions. No matter how briefly that Goal is in play, it counts, and if someone meets the conditions in that instant, they win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2270" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T20:51:43.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12792" CreationDate="2013-08-27T21:25:41.727" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had to pull out my deck to check this one, but I believe &lt;strong&gt;you win&lt;/strong&gt; in this case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason is the wording at the top of every action card (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;To play this card, do whatever it says, &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; place it on the discard pile.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, technically, &lt;em&gt;action cards are still in your hand until you've performed the action they tell you to do&lt;/em&gt;.  So when you play &amp;quot;Trade Hands&amp;quot; in the situation you describe, what actually happens is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You and your opponent exchange hands.  Both of you still have 10 cards in hand, including &amp;quot;Trade Hands&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You take &amp;quot;Trade Hands&amp;quot; from what is now your opponent's hand and place it on the discard pile.  Your opponent now has 9 cards in hand, while you still have 10.  You win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yeah, that does feel kind of weird, and of course in practice what you'd &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; do when playing is set &amp;quot;Trade Hands&amp;quot; aside before passing your hand to your opponent.  But technically, according to the rules, it still counts as part of your hand (which becomes your opponent's hand) until the exchange is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, if the explicit statement on each action card that I quoted above isn't convincing enough for you, some additional support might be offered by the &amp;quot;Discard &amp;amp; Draw&amp;quot; action card, whose instructions read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Discard your entire hand, then draw as many cards as you discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not count this card when determining how many replacement cards to draw.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, if action cards were removed from your hand &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; they were played, there would be no need (except, admittedly, avoidance of doubt) to include the second sentence on the card at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through all the other action cards in my basic Fluxx deck, and as far as I can tell, these are the only two actions where this rule could make any &lt;em&gt;direct&lt;/em&gt; difference.  However, note that following the rule as written does have one non-trivial indirect effect: whenever other cards are discarded as the result of an action, the action card ends up on top of them in the discard pile.  I don't &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; the order of the discard pile actually matters much (if at all) in basic Fluxx, but there are cards in other Fluxx editions for which it does matter, such as, off the top of my head, &amp;quot;Composting&amp;quot; in Eco Fluxx.  In any case, the &amp;quot;Let's Do That Again!&amp;quot; action explicitly tells you not to change the order of the discard pile, so clearly it's &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to be at least potentially significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-08-27T21:25:41.727" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8278" CreationDate="2013-08-28T00:28:45.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting custom printing of arbitrary shapes on arbitrary materials is hard to do, even in this internet age of CafePress and print-on-demand book publishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that's easy, though, is making custom stickers: go and Google &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=sticker%20maker&amp;amp;rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS550US550&amp;amp;source=univ&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;tbo=u&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ei=OkIdUo7SL8vriwLC34GICw&amp;amp;ved=0CD0Qsxg&amp;amp;biw=1920&amp;amp;bih=912&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;sticker maker&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and it will show you sticker-making machines. Those machines take any shape of cut-out paper, and make the back sticky. Print out your own custom character card with your favorite image-editing software (possibly scanning in the Betrayal at House on the Hill character boards first for a template?), cut it into a pentagon, cut out a pentagon of tagboard, then use the sticker-maker to make your print sticky and stick it to the tagboard. (For a better fit, make the sticker bigger than it needs to be, and don't cut the tagboard until you've put the sticker on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is morally equivalent to getting a Glue Stick and making the sticker yourself, but I've found that the glue in sticker makers is generally better than glue sticks, and sticker makers will apply the glue precisely to the edge of the paper. Depending on exactly what thickness of tagboard you find in your local art supply shop, you may need to layer them to get the right thickness for the clips that come with Betrayal at House on the Hill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T17:14:54.527" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T17:14:54.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12800" CreationDate="2013-08-28T04:42:47.207" Score="18" ViewCount="18481" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a birthday present, I'm taking my cousin to a MTG draft at a local game store this weekend. I haven't really played Magic since Tempest block, but I've been keeping up with rule changes and so forth on this site. My cousin is in high school and has been playing casually with friends for a few months.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're not expecting much victory, really just to have a good time. I've glanced at a couple questions about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/4921/1749&quot;&gt;draft&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5871/1749&quot;&gt;strategy&lt;/a&gt;, and I'll probably read up on BREAD, but is there anything else I should know? Things I should bring? Etiquette? Non-strategy-related tips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T17:17:58.287" Title="What should I know before my first MTG draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|etiquette|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12799" CreationDate="2013-08-28T05:25:11.747" Score="19" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you know the policy on rares - will rares be re-drafted at the end? Do you keep all rares you draft? Is it a 'winner-chooses' system? Most of the time you'll keep what you draft, but not always.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talking about the cards you're drafting is generally frowned upon - reading signals and predicting what your opponents are drafting is a big part of the strategy, so discussing your picks is disruptive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The above applies for discussing what you think your neighbors are drafting, too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find out if basic lands will be drafted or removed from the pack before drafting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find out what the policy is with regards to looking at your cards during the draft. Some groups won't allow you to look at your picks during drafting; some allow a minute between packs to review&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's really not acceptable to complain about your luck, bad as it may be. Part of drafting is making the best of what you have, and half the skill is mitigating any poor luck with good decisions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There will almost always be a 'pile-up' where someone isn't 100% sure of all the cards, so needs to read them before choosing - be patient with them! However on the other hand, don't take needlessly excessive time deliberating over a choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you are aware of the drafting order - usually it'll be first pack left, second pack right, third pack left, but some pods do it differently. Passing the wrong way can really confuse matters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you find a couple of packs waiting for you, make sure you go through them in the right order. If you're not sure, check with your neighbor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take your own lands. Some stores will provide lands but occasionally they'll run out, and having your own can take the pressure off.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sleeve your cards. All kinds of good reasons to do this; preventing differences between lands and the slippery new cards, protecting cards (especially if rares will be redrafted).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be afraid to ask a judge. It's always best to be safe than sorry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't be too shy to ask spectators to back off if they are distracting you or disturbing your game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's usually considered polite to offer your deck to your opponent to cut or shuffle to their satisfaction before playing. Not doing so will cause suspicion that you may be deck-stacking or cheating in some other way. In more formal, higher level tournaments it is mandatory to present your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bring a pen and paper for life tracking and counters to use for all kinds of stuff (+1/-1, etc). Dice are considered too accident-prone in competitive play. If you're just in a casual store draft, dice should be fine. Phone apps are also considered ok for life tracking. In more formal, higher level tournaments it is also standard to track your opponent's life total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes you will be unfortunate enough to come across someone who uses cheap tactics to try and put off their opponents. For example, arranging their lands in front of their permanents, or tracking their life in base 6. Do your best not to let these maneuvers distract or fluster you. If you have any concerns at all, call a judge - it's what they are there for. (and if someone's life tracking is obscured in some way, keep track of it yourself, carefully, as they may be using these odd counting methods to disguise cheating.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3228" LastEditorUserId="3228" LastEditDate="2013-08-29T17:17:58.287" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T17:17:58.287" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T07:44:40.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1091" Body="&lt;p&gt;I open 1C -- Partner 1D -- I respond 1S -- Partner bids 2NT - What 2NT means, and how do I respond to it with this hand: Kxxx-Kx-xx-AQxxx?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: since I'm studying simple sayc what concerns me is whether I can bid &quot;pass&quot; here (my considerations were: I don't have 5 spades so we don't have fit, and also since the partner didn't bid 3NT - he doesn't have enough points for game together with my 12 so, nothing left for me to show else here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T21:31:39.987" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T21:31:39.987" Title="I open 1C -- Partner: 1D -- I bid 1S -- Partner bids 2NT - What 2NT means (System: Simple SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12801" CreationDate="2013-08-28T10:19:20.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this context 2NT is an &lt;em&gt;invitation to game&lt;/em&gt;. Your partner probably has around 11-12 points, so he doesn't know if you have enough points between you to make 3NT (you haven't bid anything that shows more points than the bare minimum needed to open).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your hand is pretty weak you should pass. If you had 14 or more points then you would bid 3NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T10:19:20.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T13:04:01.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've painted my new Space Marine chapter Blood Angels style, trying to respect as much as possible the color scheme: squad decal on knee, company decal on shoulder and winged blood dop on other shoulder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decals I first used were the 90's decals from Games Workshop, but I just noticed that the new decals are smaller, and thus pretty much better (ie. don't overlap shoulder edge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bought some decal paper, scanned the decals I wanted and will now print out my own decal sheets to have the exact number and style of decals I wish to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is, and thus the question: how can I safely remove a decal from a figurine? Is there an easy way? Or must I scrape and repaint the parts that I need to reapply decals to?&#xA;The decals were sealed with Lahmian Medium and the figurines then coated with Humbrol Mat finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T16:05:08.207" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T20:14:52.523" Title="Removing to Reapply Decals" Tags="|warhammer-40k|miniatures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12801" CreationDate="2013-08-28T19:31:28.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an auction that starts 1C-1D; 1S, responder might have any of the following types of hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimum responding values with...&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spade support (Often 4, but sometimes 3 with an unbalanced hand) (2S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long diamonds (6+, or possibly 5 with e.g. 1=4=5=3 shape) (2D)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unbalanced with club support (4+) (2C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balanced shape (1NT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Invitational values with...&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-card spade support (3S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Long diamonds (6+) (3D)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Club support (4+ with unbalanced shape, e.g. 1=2=5=5, 1=3=5=4) (3C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balanced shape (2NT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game forcing values with no slam interest and...&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-card spade support (4S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balanced shape and a heart stopper (3NT)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balanced shape and no heart stopper (2H)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some question about the correct game to play (2H)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slam interest with...&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Self-sufficient diamonds (4D)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A freak two-suiter with diamonds and hearts (3H)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 spades, excellent values, no suit with 2 quick losers (4NT Blackwood)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 spades including one of the A, K, Q, plus 9 tricks outside of spades (5NT Grand Slam Force)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most other hands (2H)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4D and 3H on this sequence are not mentioned in the SAYC, but it seems right to treat them as I have mentioned. 5NT grand slam force is old-fashioned but is required by the SAYC booklet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that 2H shows a lot of different hands; the rest of the auction should clarify your hand to your partner; it's important that they make negative inferences based on the fact that you didn't take a different bid on your second turn. In SAYC 2H is forcing for one round; many/most partnerships form an understanding that when responder bids the fourth suit, it is game forcing (except 1C-1D-1H-1S).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bids listed in the minimum section are signoffs, though partner may correct to a different signoff based on their shape (e.g. they may pull 1NT to 2C or 2D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T19:31:28.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12803" CreationDate="2013-08-28T20:14:52.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually have the exact opposite problem, I can never keep mine from cracking and peeling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the model wasn't sealed, you could have tried pressing some masking tape over the decal and peeling it off.  That may take off the decal with out taking off the paint underneath. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once the model is sealed, I don't think there's a good way to get the decal off without taking the paint with it.&lt;/strong&gt;  Any kind of chemical you use will need to get through the sealer and would probably dissolve the paint as well. You'll probably have to paint over the area and apply the decal on top of the old one.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T20:14:52.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-28T21:28:28.400" Score="3" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I bid one of a (short) minor. Partner responds one of a major (one-over-one), showing at least four cards in the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do I need to raise his major to two? Some books say I need four cards, others say three cards to the queen  is sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe a better way of asking the question is, which systems allow me to raise with Qxx, and which require four cards for my raise? Does it matter if partner's response is in spades or hearts? Using the &quot;four card&quot; raise method, what should I do if partner responds one spade and I have four hearts but only three spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-08-28T22:01:33.583" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:10:54.980" Title="In bridge, how much support do you need to raise a responder?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12806" CreationDate="2013-08-28T22:21:42.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a matter of partnership understanding and taste more than systemic; most natural bidding systems may be played either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you would never make strong raises of partner's major (splinter, jump to 3M or 4M, etc) with only 3-card support. This is exclusively for the auction 1m-1M-2M. 4-3 fits are much less fun to play at the 4-level than the 2-level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the reason that you're bidding this way is that you expect that 2M will play better than 1NT. Many partnerships will only raise on three with shortness in an unbid suit. Very few partnerships will raise with a 4333 hand. Remember, ruffing values in the short hand are good; if you're forced to ruff in the long hand in a 4-3 fit, you may find yourself losing trump control. On this note, I don't like Qxx as a minimum; if you have shortness, 3 small trumps are probably fine because some of them will be winners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, remember that partner may have enough to invite or bid a game after your limiting bid. If partner doesn't expect you to raise on 3, they may bid inaccurately. Make sure that their second bid differentiates between a 4-card suit and a 5-card suit. A common agreement is that 1m-1M-2M-3M is invitational with 5+ in the major, while 1m-1M-2M-2NT is invitational with 4; similarly 3NT by responder asks opener to make a choice of games. There are conventional treatments that are probably better: &lt;a href=&quot;http://bridgewinners.com/article/view/spiral-raises/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article on bridgewinners describes the spiral raises convention&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T22:21:42.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12801" CreationDate="2013-08-28T22:37:52.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you play &lt;strong&gt;4th Suit Forcing (and possibly artificial)&lt;/strong&gt;, then partner has denied game-forcing values by choosing not to bid 2H. This means that the 2NT bid is invitational, and you should pass to show your minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hand only a bit better that could consider continuing to 3NT is &lt;strong&gt;KT9x-Kx-Tx-AQT9x&lt;/strong&gt;. Now the extra T's and 9's significantly raises the chance of one black suit running quickly, and vulnerable at IMPs I think a shot at 3NT is justified. You are probably still short of the 50% likelihood needed to consider continuing to 3T in MatchPoints or white at IMPs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T22:37:52.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12806" CreationDate="2013-08-28T23:00:05.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the question backwards. It is not what system allows you to raise with Qxx instead of xxxx, but rather what system you end-up playing as a consequence of making this decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question and its answer will fundamentally shape the way you bid; as such it becomes a fundamental system question. The notion that you can have a compatible partnership with someone who bids this differently then becomes nonsensical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-08-28T23:00:05.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12823" CreationDate="2013-08-29T18:54:45.030" Score="9" ViewCount="44497" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had a card that said something like, &quot;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for every creature in your graveyard&quot;. Would that also apply to tokens which died in previous turns? Also if I play a card which says, return target creature from the graveyard then can I choose a token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right now I use Dice to represent tokens, but not sure what to do once any of my tokens die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for cards which say sacrifice a creature or exile a creature, would these apply to tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5354" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T19:46:02.323" Title="Do tokens ever go to the graveyard and can they be sacrificed or exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12810" CreationDate="2013-08-29T19:20:19.740" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once a creature token &quot;dies&quot;, it goes to the graveyard and then ceases to exist. (Some one can came along and quote the Expanded Rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature tokens still count as &lt;strong&gt;going&lt;/strong&gt; to the graveyard (for the purposes of cards that say &quot;If a creature died...&quot; or &quot;Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature every time a creature dies.&quot;), but they are NEVER considered to be &lt;strong&gt;in&lt;/strong&gt; the graveyard. Therefore, they won't count for the enchantment you mentioned, they can't be reanimated, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature tokens count as creatures in every way; You can sacrifice and exile them to pay costs normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T11:44:07.470" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T11:44:07.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12814" CreationDate="2013-08-29T19:30:07.080" Score="10" ViewCount="1059" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone recognize this game, where players take turns in a square board, each turn a player can move his pawn or place a wall and the objective is to reach the other side of the board before the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a picture of a near end game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7nhB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5724" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T07:11:56.227" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T07:11:56.227" Title="What is the name of this game involving racing to the other side of the board and putting down barriers?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12812" CreationDate="2013-08-29T20:57:42.147" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure about the board, which looks like a homemade knockoff to me, but the game itself and its mechanics appear to be &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/624/quoridor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quoridor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DaYlF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quoridor box-art image&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;&amp;mdash; Image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/110043/quoridor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/110043/quoridor&lt;/a&gt; &amp;mdash;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T20:57:42.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12810" CreationDate="2013-08-29T23:01:44.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look really hard you can find instances where it matters, but in general you can think of tokens as just ceasing to exist once they leave the battlefield (while triggering just as if they were a card, i.e. activating morbid when going to the graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would that also apply to tokens which died in previous turns? - Nope, they ceased to exist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also if I play a card which says, return target creature from the graveyard then can I choose a token? - Nope, they cease to exist before you have the opportunity to do anything&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right now I use Dice to represent tokens, but not sure what to do once any of my tokens die. - You are fine, just pay attention and see if anything cares about the token going to the graveyard (outside of odd cases like below nothing sees a token in the graveyard). So in your +1/+1 instance you would not get +1/+1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To go into details, here is comprehensive rule 110.5f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5f A token that’s phased out, or that’s in a zone other than the battlefield, ceases to exist. This &#xA;  is a state-based action; see rule 704. (Note that if a token changes zones, applicable triggered &#xA;  abilities will trigger before the token ceases to exist.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is technically a brief period where the token is in the graveyard (before state-based effects are checked). However no one can do anything during that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a weird effect like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/us/en/263.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hidden Predators&lt;/a&gt; in play the distinction could matter. Also note that while Hidden Predators has an intervening if clause only the if is checked on resolution, not the original trigger condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify again however, &lt;strong&gt;there is never a point in time where you can take any action and a token exists in the graveyard&lt;/strong&gt;. This is typically simplified to tokens never exist in the graveyard they only enter it, that is close enough for all but the most odd ball cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it is important to note the other odd rule with tokens, they get stuck once they go somewhere, this happens when something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; plays tricks without waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5g A token that has left the battlefield can’t move to another zone or come back onto the &#xA;  battlefield. If such a token would change zones, it remains in its current zone instead. It ceases &#xA;  to exist the next time state-based actions are checked; see rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-08-29T23:01:44.277" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12801" CreationDate="2013-08-30T01:25:52.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a response of 1d, partner may have as little as 6-9 points (minimum responding values).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you rebid 1s, and partner said 2NT, he showed a two response hand of 10-12 points, just below values for an opening hand, but without four spades, since he didn't raise them. Probably a true balanced NT type hand with 2-3 spades opposite your four, 4-5 diamonds, 2-3 clubs, and the rest hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a saying that an opening hand opposite an opening hand can make game. That is true if there is a &quot;fit,&quot; and you both have something to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, you have a BARE minimum opening hand with 12 HCP points, and partner is showing a SUB-minimum opening hand of 10-12. You probably have 22-24 between you, and no major suit fit, with NT probably being your best spot. You should stop at 2NT, and hope to make eight tricks. Nine is possible, but a stretch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bit more, say the Q of diamonds opposite his, or AQJTx of clubs instead of what you have, I'd raise to 3NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T01:25:52.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12819" CreationDate="2013-08-30T06:08:38.803" Score="5" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Sentinels of the Multiverse card game, the Visionary has an ongoing card Mass Levitation with the power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Until the start of your next turn, reduce damage dealt by environment cards by 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Scum and Villany environment card from the Rook City expansion states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of the environment turn, the villain character card deals each hero target &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt; minus 1 melee damage and destroys this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I had four heroes, Scum and Villany would result in all of my heroes taking three melee damage.  Can Mass Levitation's power prevent this damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that even though the environment card &lt;em&gt;triggers&lt;/em&gt; the villain card dealing damage to the heroes, the &lt;em&gt;villain card&lt;/em&gt; is the actual source of damage for calculating effects, damage reduction, nemesis damage, etc.  Is this assumption correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T08:03:48.257" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T08:09:33.040" Title="Does the Visionary's Mass Levitation power apply to Scum and Villany?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12818" CreationDate="2013-08-30T08:09:33.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mass Levitation does not apply in this case, for exactly the reason you expect.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key word here is &quot;deals&quot;: Mass Levitation prevents damage &lt;em&gt;dealt&lt;/em&gt; by the environment. The environment card doesn't deal damage though - it actually causes the &lt;em&gt;villain&lt;/em&gt; to deal damage - so Mass Levitation has no effect here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T08:09:33.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4257" CreationDate="2013-08-30T11:40:28.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, many a game's playing experience could benefit from a port to a PC. Usually those would be eurogames with little discussion at the table but quite a lot of math.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The computer can do a lot of heavy lifting and tedious tasks&lt;/strong&gt;, making the game more dynamic, with &lt;strong&gt;less turn downtime and setup time&lt;/strong&gt;. The shuffling in card games was already mentioned. But this could get even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use an example: Imagine a digitalised version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2651/power-grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Grid&lt;/a&gt;. Wouldn't it be easier if the game offered you direct info on how much it costs to buy a &quot;house&quot; in a city? It's simple addition, but the number of operations you have to make in memory makes it a chore. &lt;strong&gt;Everyone can do it&lt;/strong&gt;, and they will do it, &lt;strong&gt;but it takes time&lt;/strong&gt; and makes your turn longer. The game could tell you how much of a certain resource could be bought by your enemies before it's your time to buy, letting you plan spending money. It could show you how much cash the other players have. It could show you how many cities you can sustain using some or all of your power plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this information is open, and quite easy to acquire; it's right there on the board. But processing it in our heads takes time, making turns longer. Wouldn't it be great if you could play two games of Power Grid in the time you used to play only one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;there are types of games that won't get better when digitalized&lt;/strong&gt;, and those mostly include &lt;strong&gt;thematic and interaction based games&lt;/strong&gt;. All the evil laughter when backstabbing your friends in Munchkin or Discworld is priceless and can't be done in a PC version. If you talk and laugh a lot at the table, its a good indicator that the game won't be very good when digitalized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T12:00:42.210" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T12:00:42.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-30T15:50:13.313" Score="1" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen graphical walk-throughs before of past Scrabble matches.  Watching the masters play is a great way to learn.  Is there a widely accepted manner in which to annotate games?  If so, is there anywhere a low-level description of such an annotation system?  I have looked at Go in ages passed and I know there is a very detailed specification for annotating Go matches.  I am looking for something similar with Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T04:01:12.317" Title="What is the standardized format for Scrabble match annotations?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12810" CreationDate="2013-08-30T15:56:54.243" Score="21" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If I had a card that said something like, &quot;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for every creature in your graveyard&quot;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There cannot be such a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &quot;creature&quot; means &quot;creature permanent&quot; which means &quot;creature card or token on the battlefield&quot;, and since a card or token cannot be in the graveyard and on the battlefield at the same time, the enchantment would never affect the attached object's power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability would likely read &quot;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for each creature &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt; in your graveyard&quot; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJarad%2c%20Golgari%20Lich%20Lord%5d&quot;&gt;Jarad, Golgari Lich Lord&lt;/a&gt;'s, which means it wouldn't count any tokens since tokens aren't cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume there's a card that has the ability &quot;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for each creature card and each creature token in your graveyard&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would that also apply to tokens which died in previous turns?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens go to the graveyard just like a card would. However, they only stay there for a very short period of time. The next time State-Based Actions (SBAs) are performed, they will cease to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens placed in the graveyard on a previous turn will have ceased to exist long ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the effect checking for tokens in the graveyard wouldn't even see the tokens that died this turn except for an extremely short (and practically useless) period of time. The longest scenario might be when the tokens are put into the graveyard during the resolution of a spell or ability, because the SBAs will be only be performed after the spell or ability finishes resolving. It could matter if your opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHidden%20Predators%5d&quot;&gt;Hidden Predators&lt;/a&gt;, but that's about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;if I play a card which says, return target creature from the graveyard then can I choose a token?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There cannot be such a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, creatures (aka creature permanents) cannot be found in the graveyard. It would be impossible to pick a legal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect would read something like &quot;Return target creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield&quot;. This excludes tokens since they aren't cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will never find &quot;Return target creature card or token from your graveyard to the battlefield.&quot; for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if there was a token was in the graveyard when targets were chosen, it would have ceased to exists by the time the spell or ability resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A rule prohibits the tokens from changing zones once they've left the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5g A token that has left the battlefield can’t move to another zone or come back onto the battlefield. If such a token would change zones, it remains in its current zone instead. It ceases to exist the next time state-based actions are checked; see rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Right now I use Dice to represent tokens,&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a poor (and illegal) choice to use a die to represent a type of token since a die can't be tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;but not sure what to do once any of my tokens die.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your tokens would move the graveyard, and soon after they will cease to exist. Most people don't bother physically moving them to the graveyard. Simply adjust the count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;cards which say sacrifice a creature or exile a creature, would these apply to tokens?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. &quot;Creature&quot; means &quot;creature permanent&quot; which means &quot;creature card or token on the battlefield&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T19:46:02.323" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T19:46:02.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12822" CreationDate="2013-08-30T16:04:36.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I found one example of an annotation method used.  The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.poslfit.com/scrabble/gcg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gcg&lt;/a&gt; format seems to be allowed on Cross-Tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This format consists of a number of lines which can be divided into 2 classes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Events&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pragmata&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former are moves by players, passes, exchanges, challenges, and end of game events (penalties or bonuses for tiles remaining at the end of the game).  They start with the character &lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter are comments on the game, player names, the contents of player racks and a bunch of other options for future expansion or which have been made obsolete.  They start with the character &lt;code&gt;#&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The development of .gcg can be traced back to John Chew in August 2000.  I am not aware of its significance in the world of Scrabble nor of any competing annotation schemes which may be in place, particularly in Scrabble which is not TWL and especially for non-English Scrabble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastEditorUserId="1604" LastEditDate="2013-08-30T17:19:39.253" LastActivityDate="2013-08-30T17:19:39.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12727" CreationDate="2013-08-30T20:02:13.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moat is the only Reaction card that blocks attacks.  The only other card in the game that blocks attacks completely is &lt;code&gt;Lighthouse&lt;/code&gt;, an &lt;code&gt;Action - Duration&lt;/code&gt; card from the Seaside set which blocks attacks as long as it's in play (i.e. until the end of the turn after you play it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, every Reaction card in the game &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; Fools Gold can be used in response to specific kinds of attacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any Attack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moat (Base).  Completely blocks the attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secret Chamber (Intrigue).  Before the attack, draw two cards then put two cards back on top of your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horse Trader (Cornucopia). Before the attack, set Horse Traders aside.  At the beginning of your turn, put Horse Traders back in your hand and draw a card.  Since this card is no longer in your hand, it changes the number of cards affected by Militia, Ghost Ship, Goons, and Followers... and may cause the attack option of Minion to not affect you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beggar (Dark Ages).  Before the attack, reveal and discard Beggar to gain two Silvers, putting one of them on top of your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain a card (meaning you can do it for each card from Montebank):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watchtower (Prosperity).  You can choose to trash the card you're gaining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trader (Hinterlands). You can choose to gain a Silver instead of the card you'd normally gain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tunnel (Hinterlands). If you discard this card to an attack, you gain a Gold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trash cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Market Square (Dark Ages). Reveal and discard Market Square to gain a Gold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2013-10-17T16:39:43.500" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T16:39:43.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12830" CreationDate="2013-08-31T19:48:40.290" Score="5" ViewCount="2148" Body="&lt;p&gt;Foils are slightly thicker than regular cards, more stiff, and are usually a bit curved. Even with sleeves it's possible to tell if a face down card is foil by looking at it or feeling/bending it a bit. (Is there a legitimate situation where you could be given the chance to feel/bend a card that's not revealed?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing is whether the card (sleeved or not) is pointing up or down while in the library. I always sleeve my cards and make sure they are all facing the same direction, but as far as I know it's not required. It would be easy to turn one card upside down so I know when it's on the top of my library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like these two things could be used to cheat. Are there any rules about this? Is it even an issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T21:29:21.240" Title="Cheating with foils and card orientation" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|cheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12829" CreationDate="2013-08-31T21:04:19.153" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules simply say that you cannot have marked cards, without enumerating all the specific ways they might be marked. From section 3.11 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF1.pdf&quot;&gt;the tournament rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A card or sleeve is considered marked if it bears something that makes it possible to identify the card without seeing its face, including scratches, discoloration, and bends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if someone is actually able to identify cards by messing with their orientation, or determining whether they're a foil, or anything else, they're breaking the rules. (Note that bends are explicitly mentioned, so that part of &quot;is it a foil&quot; is right out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how someone might get caught doing this and what the consequences are of course depends on the situation and the level of play. If someone accidentally has a card turned the wrong way at FNM, I doubt they'll be thrown out of the building. But if you're at a serious tournament and you notice your opponent carefully feeling the thickness of the top card of their library, things probably aren't going to go well for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, the takeaway here for everyone is sleeve your cards and don't cheat. Cheating is bad, and if you think you see it, call a judge. But at an FNM or a kitchen table, it's possible to be friendly about little things. If there's a card out of place, just talk to your opponent, and fix things. They're probably a person who just like you is trying to play Magic and not cheat, and all it takes is a few words to turn the card around and get back to the game. I don't think any of this is a real problem - it's a kind of dumb way to try to cheat, one that won't ever get you much information - but if you do suspect it's happening, just pretend you're dealing with nicked sleeves and handle it however you'd handle that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-08-31T22:38:25.087" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T22:38:25.087" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-08-31T22:59:43.973" Score="2" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;With equal vulnerability, opponents bid 1 club, 1 spade, 1NT, 3NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sitting West, opening from: (s) xxx (h) J8732 (d) T9x (c) xx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't fancy leading my ragged hearts suit with no side entry. So should I lead the other unbid suit, diamonds, and hope that partner has 4-5 of them, headed by enough honors so that my T9 sequence isn't wasted? The opponents probably have 26-27 HCPs between them; my one leaves 12-13 for partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose my hand were upgraded to (s) xxx (h) J8732 (d) ATx (c) xx. Now I have 5 HC points, versus 8-9 for partner. Is this a better time to lead &quot;fourth best&quot; from my heart suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T17:06:39.077" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T16:26:24.363" Title="In rubber bridge, when should you &quot;lead your partner's suit rather than your own?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12833" CreationDate="2013-08-31T23:07:28.787" Score="7" ViewCount="5879" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes an effect causes you to discard a card at random. In casual games, it's usually acceptable to have the player hold their hand out (or face down) and the other player picks a card. However, this is not really random. For example I often play mind games to influence their decision like sticking one card out really far while staring at another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent wants to resolve a random discard that way, am I within my right to demand that it be settled with something more random, like a dice roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T12:13:52.423" Title="Properly choosing a random discard" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12832" CreationDate="2013-08-31T23:15:49.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Many of us use dice even in casual games, because we can't actually make random decisions, and it's easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random means, well, random, so a nonrandom method is not following the rules. I don't think this is explicitly in the rules anywhere, though both die rolls and coin flips are mentions as methods of randomization. It's left implicit that a nonrandom method does not suffice for a card which asks for a random choice; it's not what the card said to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;705.3. ... Other methods of randomization may be substituted for flipping a coin as long as there are two possible outcomes of equal likelihood and all players agree to the substitution. For example, the player may roll an even-sided die and call &quot;odds&quot; or &quot;evens,&quot; or roll an even-sided die and designate that &quot;odds&quot; means &quot;heads&quot; and &quot;evens&quot; means &quot;tails.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also sometimes mentioned in rules clarifications, e.g. for Goblin Test Pilot from the Dragon's Maze FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To choose a target at random, all possible legal targets (including creatures and players) must have an equal chance of being chosen. There are many ways to do this, including assigning each possible legal target a number and rolling a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again, I don't think it ever says explicitly &quot;nonrandom methods are not random&quot;, because that's supposed to be obvious. Any method is okay, as long as all outcomes are equally likely. Determining what methods satisfy that criterion is left up to the players, or if necessary, a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T23:15:49.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12832" CreationDate="2013-08-31T23:20:53.767" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to obtain a &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt; decision, in the absence of a die, is to:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have both players secretly write down a number from 0 to N-1 (where N is the number of cards to choose from); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal them simultaneously and add them; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the result &lt;em&gt;modulo N&lt;/em&gt;; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a card this many places over from the left-most card of the owning player's hand. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One can see how this works as follows: whatever number one player might choose, each possible number chosen by the other player will map that to a single unique card from the pool, exactly once. And vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Excerpts from my comments to the original question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try that strategy if you like, but any decent opponent knowledgeable in Game Theory would figure out your strategy in a few instances. You are always better off in such a situation, against a knowledgeable opponent, to provide no information what-so-ever.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;against a skilled opponent, random is the very best you can do. Google game theory if you don't believe me. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Against children, novices and fools you might do better; however a skilled opponent will have determined which card to select in such a circumstance before the game even started. They will deviate from this pre-game selection only if they have identified your tell. Watch &lt;em&gt;The Cincinnati Kid&lt;/em&gt; sometime, or the original &lt;em&gt;Rounders&lt;/em&gt; with Matt Damon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More on &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Game Theory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is readily available on the web, or try Googling &lt;em&gt;Prisoners' Dilemma&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-08-31T23:40:17.503" LastActivityDate="2013-08-31T23:40:17.503" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12831" CreationDate="2013-08-31T23:59:32.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you are correct not to lead that ratty heart suit with a bad hand. Instead lead DT hoping to catch a quack in dummy and partner with some cards in the suit. With luck you might get in again with a heart to lead the suit a second time for partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said however, the opponents bid game aggressively; in MatchPoints it might be better to try the heart 3 with the goal of not giving up an overtrick, rather than defeating the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the second hand, not playing MatchPoints I definitely lead the heart suit; or if the auction had finished 1NT - 2NT - 3NT I lead the heart because opponents have bid a minimum game. However in MatchPoints, with the opponents having bid to game strongly, &lt;em&gt;I am leading the heart suit only because every other possibility is worse&lt;/em&gt; and so the heart lead is least likely to give up an overtrick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As pointed out below by &lt;em&gt;Ruds&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;if the opponents play CBS or NMF&lt;/strong&gt; over 1NT in this auction, then the failure of responder to do so is a loud denial of a 5-card spade holding. In this case &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; a spade lead (highest spot usually, but dependent on leading conventions) can be considered at all vulnerabilities and styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T16:26:24.363" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T16:26:24.363" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8123" CreationDate="2013-09-01T03:21:19.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played the new version earlier this summer.  I had not played the original in more than a decade but game play was pretty much the same.  The new boards and cards were beautiful, though.  Some of the playable characters from the original were missing (the elf is one I can remember off the top of my head).  Still, given a choice, I would definitely play the new edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5768" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T03:21:19.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12838" CreationDate="2013-09-01T07:45:24.427" Score="10" ViewCount="1325" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, there is basically hidden and public information in Magic. Now let's suppose I have multiple face-down cards on the battlefield, and my opponent gets to look at one of them. Is there anything in the rules that specifies what I can do to those face down cards and what I can't? My opponent now knows what one of my face down cards is, but does he have the &quot;right&quot; to know which one it is, or may I shuffle them so that he no longer has access to that information? My guess is shuffling is ok, but I have no idea where I'd look in the rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2698" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T09:44:38.770" Title="Magic: Shuffle face down cards after opponent looked at one?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|shuffling|random|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12837" CreationDate="2013-09-01T09:44:38.770" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can't do that.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; (bold mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;707.6. If you control multiple face-down spells or face-down permanents, &lt;strong&gt;you must ensure at all times that your face-down spells and permanents can be easily differentiated from each other.&lt;/strong&gt; This includes, but is not limited to, knowing the order spells were cast, the order that face-down permanents entered the battlefield, which creature attacked last turn, and any other differences between face-down spells or permanents. Common methods for distinguishing between face-down objects include using counters or dice to mark the different objects, or clearly placing those objects in order on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2336" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T09:44:38.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2013-09-01T12:26:03.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not played the add-on yet, but when we started the basic game yesterday we played a lot of combinations (so I am not a pro at this game, just want to share my first impressions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we played with 2 players the Ninja/Pirate deck worked quite well because I was able to deny any creatures my opponent tried to bring out. The trickster faction was much better in 1-vs-1 than in a 4 player match I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with 3 or 4 people I really liked the Wizard/Alien combination. You try to get your Invader as soon as possible (if you know your opponent ninja has some ace in the hole try to hold it back a bit) and play it (1VP) -&gt; get it back to your hand -&gt; play it again (1VP) -&gt; get it back to your hand -&gt;... with your aliens. With the Wizards you have a nearly endless supply of cards! &#xA;Aliens are very funny to play because they can annoy anyone constantly (a nice trick against Trickster is to terraform the base the leprechaun is on out to the base that gives you 1 VP every time a creature dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe another good combination might be Alien/Ninja or Alien/Zombie to spam your ninja effects or recycle your invader with the Zombies, but that faction was sadly taken every game so I couldn't test it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5770" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T12:55:25.907" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T12:55:25.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-01T12:43:37.170" Score="2" ViewCount="5103" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature has one or more permanent +1/+1 counters are those counters considered &quot;enchantments&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5771" LastActivityDate="2020-03-10T04:18:05.900" Title="Are permanent +1/+1 counters considered enchantments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12840" CreationDate="2013-09-01T12:55:32.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Unlike tokens, counters aren't permanents in their own right. They're just... counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a relevant bit of the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.1. A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or interacts with a rule, ability, or effect. Counters are not objects and have no characteristics. Notably, a counter is not a token, and a token is not a counter. Counters with the same name or description are interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T17:46:24.743" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T17:46:24.743" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12844" CreationDate="2013-09-01T13:09:23.573" Score="3" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Android: Netrunner, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnercards.info/card/01005/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cyberfeeder&lt;/a&gt; is a piece of hardware that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 [Recurring credit]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this credit to pay for using &lt;strong&gt;icebreakers&lt;/strong&gt; or for installing &lt;strong&gt;virus&lt;/strong&gt; programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in the &amp;quot;using icebreakers&amp;quot; clause. I know I can use it for icebreakers' paid abilities, such as &lt;code&gt;1 [Credit]: +1 strength&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;1 [Credit]: break ice subroutine&lt;/code&gt;, but I was wondering if it can also be used for other effects like this one of Darwin's:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your turn begins, you may pay 1 [Credit] to place one virus counter on Darwin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does &amp;quot;use&amp;quot; apply to this kind of cost, or just to paid abilities?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T18:29:45.943" Title="When can I use Cyberfeeder's recurring credit with icebreakers?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12842" CreationDate="2013-09-01T17:26:37.080" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Android: Netrunner FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 10):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can the Runner use the recurring credit on Cyberfeeder to pay for using Femme Fatale’s bypass ability or Darwin’s gaining counters ability?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes. Triggering any ability on an icebreaker is considered to be using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-09-01T18:29:45.943" LastActivityDate="2013-09-01T18:29:45.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12840" CreationDate="2013-09-01T18:55:59.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. They are not objects on the battlefield, and they don't have the enchantment card type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An enchantment is a permanent with the card type &quot;enchantment&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A counter fails to match the definition of an enchantment for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Counters aren't permanents. They aren't even objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.1. A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or interacts with a rule, ability, or effect. &lt;strong&gt;Counters are not objects&lt;/strong&gt; and have no characteristics. &lt;strong&gt;Notably, a counter is not a token&lt;/strong&gt;, and a token is not a counter. Counters with the same name or description are interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Counters don't have the enchantment card type. They don't even have a card type. They aren't even objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;300.1. &lt;strong&gt;The card types are&lt;/strong&gt; artifact, creature, &lt;strong&gt;enchantment&lt;/strong&gt;, instant, land, phenomenon, plane, planeswalker, scheme, sorcery, tribal, and vanguard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.3. &lt;strong&gt;An object’s characteristics are&lt;/strong&gt; name, mana cost, color, color indicator, &lt;strong&gt;card type&lt;/strong&gt;, subtype, supertype, expansion symbol, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects can have some or all of these characteristics. Any other information about an object isn’t a characteristic. For example, characteristics don’t include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell’s target, an object’s owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.1. An object is an ability on the stack, a card, a copy of a card, a token, a spell, a permanent, or an emblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.1. A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or interacts with a rule, ability, or effect. &lt;strong&gt;Counters&lt;/strong&gt; are not objects and &lt;strong&gt;have no characteristics&lt;/strong&gt;. Notably, a counter is not a token, and a token is not a counter. Counters with the same name or description are interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-09-02T00:21:35.890" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T00:21:35.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12183" CreationDate="2013-09-02T04:48:32.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You make him stay at original place. You can do this to any figure, even if the figure is planning to attack someone else and not you. The reason it says &quot;may interrupt a movement&quot; is that you are allowed to use this ability out of your turn, when someone else is doing the movement you can interrupt them. You dont necessarily have to use this ability in your own movement turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5775" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T04:48:32.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7657" CreationDate="2013-09-02T23:33:13.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shuck Shuck gets its name from the sound that transports make when they land troops. the spelling I think is what throws people off, spelled how it sounds would be like Shoook shoook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5778" LastActivityDate="2013-09-02T23:33:13.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12850" CreationDate="2013-09-03T00:24:52.203" Score="5" ViewCount="946" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I control a Vesuvan Shapeshifter and a face-down morph creature, and I then choose to turn the Vesuvan Shapeshifter face-down. My opponent definitely &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; still be able to tell which of the two face-down creatures is the Shapeshifter (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12837/magic-shuffle-face-down-cards-after-opponent-looked-at-one&quot;&gt;I'm not allowed to shuffle them around&lt;/a&gt;). But that can get a bit tricky, as I may move them around in the course of the game, perhaps rearranging for attacking and blocking or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that there is a mix of private and public information here: which permanent is which is public, but the identity of a face-down creature, even if it was previously revealed, is private. Does my opponent simply have to keep track and never forget which is which? Do I have to answer questions like &quot;which one of those is the Shapeshifter?&quot;, &quot;which one of those is the one you turned face down a minute ago?&quot;, or any other related questions, or can I refuse to answer or even lie in response to those questions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I'm asking out of curiosity about tournament rules, i.e. what a rules lawyering player could get away with if their opponent forgets to mark the face-down card. Personally I'd happily answer the questions, same way I'd play with a revealed hand to save my opponent from having to write it down, but I know that's not required.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T17:55:19.397" Title="Can I &quot;hide&quot; a Vesuvan Shapeshifter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12849" CreationDate="2013-09-03T01:09:10.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the rules reference in the answer you linked (i'll change emphasis to make this clear) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;707.6. If you control multiple face-down spells or face-down permanents, you must ensure at all times that your face-down spells and permanents can be easily differentiated from each other. This includes, but is not limited to, knowing the order spells were cast, the order that face-down permanents entered the battlefield, which creature attacked last turn, and any other differences between face-down spells or permanents. Common methods for distinguishing between face-down objects include &lt;strong&gt;using counters or dice to mark the different objects&lt;/strong&gt;, or clearly placing those objects in order on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent doesn't remember that the third face-down creature was the one revealed as the shapeshifter, that's not on you. However, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be honest about a question such as &quot;Which is the third face-down creature you cast this game?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CR 707.6 also seems to make explicit that you must answer such questions as &quot;which creature attacked last turn&quot; or the order they entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But that can get a bit tricky, as I may move them around in the course of the game, perhaps rearranging for attacking and blocking or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not using counters or dice to mark the face-down creatures, you must at least keep them always in the same order after combat manipulation, obviously, whether it's &quot;tricky&quot; or not to do so… in a tournament setting you could get in trouble if you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, in the spirit of CR707.6, which says &lt;em&gt;&quot;this includes, but is not limited to…&quot;&lt;/em&gt; if you're asked &quot;which creature did you turn face down last turn?&quot; – you should answer truthfully. I know this is basically the same as saying &quot;which creature is the Shapeshifter?&quot; but you made the information public.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how this situation is handled in a tournament, but once a creature has been turned face down, as your opponent I would immediately request some sort of die or counter be placed on it so I can keep track of which one is the Shapeshifter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-09-03T01:17:51.820" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T01:17:51.820" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12511" CreationDate="2013-09-03T13:14:38.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?270684-skaven-the-uber-army-esp-in-8th&amp;amp;s=7a264d718be62f7de29ce566886655ab&amp;amp;p=4894169&amp;amp;viewfull=1#post4894169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This is not from me&lt;/a&gt;, but I approve it :)&#xA;Skaven pros -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have access to vast arrays of troops/troop types, and can get them in vast quantities. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The leadership rules they come with over-ride what would be a fatal&#xA;weakness and combined with the new re-roll of all leadership tests&#xA;allowed by the BSB and the general's leadership in a 24&quot; diameter&#xA;bubble they have the same Ld as dwarfs, ie impregnable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have excellent magic capacity and at least one game ending&#xA;spell, which is now far easier to cast now in 8th irresistibly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new initiative strikes first regardless of charge now makes even&#xA;their weaker troops likely to inflict a credible ammount of damage on&#xA;all but the most heavily armoured foes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Storm Banner can, for a tiny cost eradicate their greatest&#xA;weakness - being squelched by template weapons and shot to death -&#xA;yes it affects their own troops to, but this is generally less&#xA;detrimental to them than it is against other armies such as DE, HE,&#xA;WE, Dwarfs, Empire, OK of which (generally) most of their opponents&#xA;will come from.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Such a large quantity of troops on the table means the potential for&#xA;being bottlenecked against terrain, the newer terrain rules have&#xA;nearly removed this as a problem for skaven now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to be lose all their Ld bonuses by being flanked was a&#xA;great problem, but in 8th the most common flanking units, fast&#xA;cavalry have been hit by needing full ranks to break ranks. To give&#xA;the fast cav enough ranks to both survive getting to the flanks and&#xA;then (as ranks are counted after combat now) last long enough to be&#xA;able to break the ranks is an option. This falls under analysis though&#xA;as with 2.5k or 3k skaven can build a battle line that stretches from&#xA;table edge to table edge and presents no flanks to the enemy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overall I believe skaven have really been boosted a vast amount in&#xA;8th, but regardless of numbers they will die in droves in HtH against&#xA;any and all opponents, it's just a case of will they fail their&#xA;stubborn ld 10 re-rollable break tests over the course of the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5781" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T22:03:28.947" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:03:28.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1368" CreationDate="2013-09-03T17:45:10.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may not be a quick method. But for a full answer to property expected value, I recommend the following book:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060961279&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Winning Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This book has includes the results of doing the math for the expected value of the different properites in key stages of the game.  The book is not just tables, but includes solid explainations and good rules of thumb for evaluating most decisions in the game.&#xA;Some key factors to consider in evaluating each side of a trade are:&#xA;1. Having a winning Monopoly that can bankrupt an opponent(s).  Including ownership and the ability to buy improvements.&#xA;2. Number of turns left to play in the game, if a time limit is explicity or implictly in place.&#xA;3. Likelihood of getting rent in addition to amount of rent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding the concepts in the book and the data presented really helps estimate the value of each property to each side of a trade, in the current game situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T17:45:10.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-03T19:11:04.857" Score="6" ViewCount="126" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've picked up the Factions expansion for Alien Frontiers, and have played a single game with it. I ended up with the &lt;em&gt;Proxima Centauri Scholars&lt;/em&gt;, which have the ability to place the various Fields once per turn. The fields (positron field, isolation field, isolation field) are only rarely placed in a normal game; they're moderately powerful, and give more options to attack other players, but they require discarding Alien Tech cards. Adding the Scholars to the game makes it much more directly aggressive, with the Scholars doing the vast majority of the attacking. This is a very sharp change in the way the game normally goes; one of the players at my game became rather dejected because I had the option to stomp on anyone I wanted, at a moment's notice. (The Isolation Field is extremely effective versus Burroughs Desert, and still pretty darn powerful elsewhere.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've decided to remove the Scholars from future Alien Frontiers games, because it very sharply changes the way that the game plays out, making the game antagonistic in an unbalanced way: one player has a nigh-monopoly on one of the better aggressive tactics. &lt;strong&gt;What other Factions cause such large changes in how the game is played, and why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T19:11:04.857" Title="Which Factions sharply change the way that Alien Frontiers plays out?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12855" CreationDate="2013-09-03T22:21:28.377" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am West, defending a no trump contract. (No bids by our side, no other bids than NT by the opponents.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're down to the last few cards, and I have two suits, call them diamonds and clubs, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(d) Kx (c) Qxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am guarding two suits, and when South leads a third suit, e.g. a heart, I will likely be squeezed because I have two &quot;secondary&quot; (non top honors) that need to be protected by x cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I knew that partner had e.g. Qx of diamonds, I could &quot;transfer control.&quot; of that suit by discarding K, and then x, while protecting the club suit. If I knew partner had Jxx of clubs, I could discard my Qxx of clubs and protect diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know whether (and in which suit) I can transfer control to partner in this fashion? What should I have been doing/looking for in earlier play to help make this decision?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T18:35:42.993" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T18:35:42.993" Title="In bridge, is there a way to determine when and where to &quot;transfer control&quot; to defeat a squeeze?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12854" CreationDate="2013-09-03T23:36:36.120" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sufficiently advanced partnerships will have good enough signaling that you should be able to narrow down which stopper partner might have. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partner may give suit preference signals throughout the hand, as described in &quot;A Switch In Time&quot; by the Granovetters, so you should know whether partner has the missing Q.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partner may give count throughout, so you should know whether partner has 3 clubs (and therefore may hold Jxx), if this is in doubt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partner may give attitude discards while declarer is playing down the squeeze suit; giving negative attitude for diamonds would eliminate the possibility they have the Q.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-09-03T23:36:36.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12209" CreationDate="2013-09-04T00:22:47.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd open one club, 1) because there are five of them and 2) to give partner a chance to respond in all three higher suts (or no trump). With your length in clubs, partner is less likely to have four or five of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he responds in your singleton, I'd bid one NT, denying a four card spade suit, and denying support for his suit, implying that most of my strength is in the minors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T00:22:47.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12854" CreationDate="2013-09-04T03:57:29.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To expand on Ruds answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also &lt;em&gt;must have been counting the hand from the moment the bidding began&lt;/em&gt;. Every call and play made at the table, and even more particularly &lt;strong&gt;every possible call and play not made&lt;/strong&gt;, bears on situations such as these. If you are not noting these as they happen, you will never remember them well enough, or fast enough, later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visualize declarer's hand, and note where what play ordering choices have been made - these choices are made by good declarers in order to extract information from the defenders, but in turn can be used by defenders to infer declarer's holding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you are only making this decision as declarer plays the squeeze card, you are lost more often than not. Squeeze defence is most effective when recognized very early, because that is when defenders have the most options; delaying critical decisions will reduce options, often resulting in failure to recognize the last defensive chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T03:57:29.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11322" CreationDate="2013-09-04T05:10:20.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a reconstructed version of the game. It was originally a Sicilian. The final variation chosen is one of many that leads to mate: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. e4 c5&#xA;2. Nf3 Nc6&#xA;3. d4 cxd4&#xA;4. Nxd4 g6&#xA;5. Be3 Bg7&#xA;6. c4 Nf6&#xA;7. Nc3 Ng4&#xA;8. Qxg4 Nxd4&#xA;9. Qd1 Ne6&#xA;10. Qd2 d6&#xA;11. Be2 Bd7&#xA;12. O-O O-O&#xA;13. Rad1 Bc6&#xA;14. Nd5 Re8&#xA;15. f4 Nc7&#xA;16. f5 Na6&#xA;17. Bg4 Nc5&#xA;18. fxg6 hxg6&#xA;19. Qf2 Rf8&#xA;20. e5 Bxe5&#xA;21. Qh4 Bxd5&#xA;22. Rxd5 Ne6&#xA;23. Rf3 Bf6&#xA;24. Qh6 Bg7&#xA;25. Qxg6 fxg6&#xA;26. Bxe6+ Kh7&#xA;27. Rh3+ Bh6&#xA;28. Bxh6 Rf5&#xA;29. Rxf5 gxf5&#xA;30. Bf7 Qb6+&#xA;31. Kh1 Qxb2&#xA;32. Bf8# 1-0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5787" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-09-04T08:13:46.340" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T08:13:46.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5943" CreationDate="2013-09-04T09:06:44.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have personally found that Enclave of the Bear's &lt;strong&gt;The defender subtracts 1 from his lower defense die in the first territory you attack during your turn&lt;/strong&gt; ability to be the most beneficial starting power, both at the start and throughout the campaign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5788" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T09:06:44.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12861" CreationDate="2013-09-04T16:18:30.167" Score="2" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think i got this right, but I'd like to make a sanity check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wake%20the%20Reflections&quot;&gt;Wake the Reflections&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Young Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt; in play, the pyromancer's trigger will resolve first, so that you will get a token to populate even if you originally had none, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:38:47.017" Title="Wake the Reflections and Young Pyromancer" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12860" CreationDate="2013-09-04T16:38:47.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are absolutely correct. &lt;strong&gt;When a &amp;quot;Whenever you cast&amp;quot; trigger is triggered, the ability will go on the stack above the spell that caused it, meaning it will be resolved first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the sequence of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wake%20the%20Reflections&quot;&gt;Wake the Reflections&lt;/a&gt;. Populate does not require selecting a target, so I don't have to make any choices about it when the spell goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Young Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt;'s ability triggers (&amp;quot;Whenever you cast&amp;quot;) and goes on the stack. This puts it above Wake the Reflections on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Both players pass, so the top of the stack resolves.) We resolve Young Pyromancer's ability, creating an Elemental token.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Both players pass, so the top of the stack resolves.) We resolve Wake the Reflections. I make a new token of any type I already have, including the 1/1 red Elemental I got a second ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-09-04T16:38:47.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12942" CreationDate="2013-09-04T18:58:16.283" Score="4" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that dead elders should keep their Secrets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason that they keep their Secrets is that if they turn out to be evil, it is assumed that they faked their own death and still join the Villain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But so far, the only way I can see of this ever coming into play is if a player uses Accusation at the beginning of a Showdown and points at a dead elder, who turns out to be evil. Is that it? Are there other possibilities and which game modes are they valid for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I've played one Basic game so far, so maybe I'm missing something obvious, but I did read advanced rules and didn't see anything about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5501" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T04:57:13.500" Title="When do dead Evil Elders join the villain?" Tags="|a-touch-of-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="451" CreationDate="2013-09-04T22:17:08.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying development cards is a &amp;quot;slow but steady&amp;quot; way to win the game. It is best done when your progress has slowed to a crawl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early in the game, you might not want to do this, because the impact of other early moves such as founding settlements, building roads, or upgrading settlements to cities will last you the whole game. So the value of a victory point (or other &amp;quot;get&amp;quot;) might be less than than doing other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each development card (which costs three resources) is worth about one victory point. This is clearly the case for victory points. If you're going for largest army, you need at least three knights, sometimes four or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you have reached an impasse, buying development cards might represent the &amp;quot;biggest bang for the buck&amp;quot; (or resources). At this stage of the game, the victory points are useful, and if you don't get one, the other help that you get (knights for the largest army, two road pieces toward longest road, year of plenty or monopoly cards, might be worth a victory point (or two). Let's say four on average. That's 12 cards to get two points, or half a point per card. But in addition, you additional benefits by 1) removing the robber from your hexes, and 2) &amp;quot;siccing&amp;quot; him on others. Likewise, progress cards are worth about one victory point on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A settlement is one victory point and costs four cards, and a city is worth one victory point and costs five cards (in each case more than three). But besides the victory point, a new settlement gives you 2-3 new resources (and possibly a port). A new city doubles the production of your hexes. These &amp;quot;side&amp;quot; benefits, which last the balance of the game, are the reason why development cards are less valuable in the early game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, look at development cards at a de-bottlenecking tool, to be used when you reach a bottleneck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T20:25:52.880" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T20:25:52.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12865" CreationDate="2013-09-05T02:06:46.083" Score="10" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule book says that you need to decide on your tickets even before the next player takes his/her turn. How big a deal is it to allow a fellow player to decide on destination tickets while others are taking their turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T23:01:55.523" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T23:01:55.523" Title="What's the impact of allowing other players to continue while you choose tickets?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|play-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2013-09-05T02:22:45.283" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allowing play to continue can give the player who is choosing which tickets to pick up an advantage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other players may place a route blocking one of the tickets the first player was considering keeping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seeing what colours others pick up can indicate where they're going. Another round of this can only help decide which routes are worth keeping.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If play has gone full circle while you're deciding, you also are guaranteed to know which colours will be available for you to pick up once you've selected your tickets. This is huge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought I remembered seeing advice somewhere on the site that said &quot;always let play continue if you're choosing the tickets, never let it continue if it's someone else&quot;, but I couldn't find it. While this is certainly the most &quot;effective&quot; way to play, I personally think it's a bit underhand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to play as written in the rulebook, but if it's a causal game and people want to keep playing, I'll generally let it happen (no matter who is choosing the tickets). It definitely gives an advantage to the player choosing their tickets, but it's not game breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastEditorUserId="2684" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T10:11:28.320" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T10:11:28.320" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12941" CreationDate="2013-09-05T17:24:17.167" Score="1" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having a Fight Round with the Villain outside of a Showdown (&lt;a href=&quot;http://flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Card%3aDeadly_Encounter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deadly Encounter&lt;/a&gt; Mystery card) and an Evil Elder has joined him already (it's cooperative mode and the elder has been investigated and revealed to be evil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Evil Elders helping the Villain are only mentioned in the Showdown section and this is specifically &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a Showdown, my thinking is that the elder should not provide the usual +1 Combat and +1 Wound... but is that really the case in cooperative mode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5501" LastEditorUserId="5501" LastEditDate="2013-09-13T08:47:24.573" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T08:47:24.573" Title="Do elders help the villain in a non-showdown fight round?" Tags="|a-touch-of-evil|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12871" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:21:16.117" Score="5" ViewCount="732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a board game about constructing molecules out of elements. For example you can construct water out of 2 hydrogen and 1 oxygen. When a player constructs it they take a water card worth 6 points. However this currently has a diminishing return, the next player to construct water only get's 4 points, then 2 points, then 1 point. I felt it simulated a supply/demand system, where to more you supply the lower the value of the commodity becomes. I then asked myself, what if it was the other way around? Water is worth 1 point to begin with, then 2 points and so on. While this doesn't make sense with the supply/demand analogy it does create interesting decisions to think ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit to make answers more objective:&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;What are the pros and cons for each system? What games have these mechanics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the game is calle Entropy btw, you can read more about it here &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1032958/wip-entropy-chemistry-and-chaos-2-4-players-pnp&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1032958/wip-entropy-chemistry-and-chaos-2-4-players-pnp&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5793" LastEditorUserId="5793" LastEditDate="2013-09-05T20:50:17.993" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T00:26:55.493" Title="Diminishing Returns vs Increasing Returns" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11155" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:24:26.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically yes, if it has &quot;can block any number of creatures&quot; in the text. Otherwise no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5794" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T20:24:26.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2013-09-05T20:57:26.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The decision is obviously localized to the game and requires a significant amount of background to answer objectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important distinction between the two is this: diminishing returns is easy, but amplifying returns is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have diminishing returns, you introduce two elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first is resourcefulness (no pun intended). If you can only do the same thing 2 or 3 times before it becomes worthless, you (as a player) need to structure your play such that you don't rely on a single mechanic. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second is awareness of what your opponents play. If two people have played water already, you really should do something else with your hydrogen. But this means you have to be very aware of who has played water, who is set up to play water again soon, and what options you have with your water components.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have amplifying returns, you introduce a different set of elements. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first is that you have a huge risk of being bah-roken. Magic: the Gathering's two most broken mechanics were Storm and Affinity. Storm copied a spell for every spell played before it this turn (majorly amplified!) and Affinity made artifacts cost 1 less for every artifact on the board (allowing you to play things that should be out on turn 8 on turn 3 or even sooner!) The amplification effects in Magic are strictly regulated and playtested to death before being released because of how powerful they've been in the past. Typically, they're prohibitively expensive or fragile to be used in competitive play, as otherwise they would easily dominate the format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second is that your players will probably focus on them. Most casual players like big things. If this gets big fast, they're going to go for it. You must be careful not to make your game all about these 2 or 3 mechanics that explode super fast, or your game will run out of steam.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in summary, diminishing returns put a lot of work on the designer not to make the game a chore to play, while amplifying returns put a lot of work on the designer to make the game last long enough to be fun for everyone in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using linear acceleration or deceleration in whatever one you pick (if anything) as using anything higher than that explodes in value after only a few iterations, and obviously the safest thing to do is to not have it. A core tenant of game design is that the game should have as few mechanics as necessary to make the game fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T20:57:26.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12760" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:01:31.580" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I believe in most places, novices are taught the &quot;natural&quot; way. i.e. when you bid a suit, you have length in that suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means they are probably first introduced to system similar to the standard american. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:01:31.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12806" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:10:54.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 card support is sufficient in any cases. but what if you have 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to adopt a natural approach to the game, this is a matter of judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the goal of constructive bidding is to find the best contract for your side, keep that in mind and make your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;when you only have 3 card in the major, a rule of thumb in your case is to raise partner when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can produce extra tricks by ruffing, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you have concentrated value in the suits bid, which usually means little value in unbid suits and feel uncomfortable to bid notrumps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beside,&#xA;Do not raise partner when you have 4333 shape, bid NT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:10:54.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12053" CreationDate="2013-09-05T21:22:14.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These kind of issue, of course, mostly depends on your agreement with your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I think making 2C - 2D - 3C passable is ill advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;just ask yourself this question: &#xA;If partner can allow you to pass now, why didn't s/he just open 1C?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to open 2C with unbalanced hands: you will need 9+ tricks for major(s), and 10+ trick for minor(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5795" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T21:22:14.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2013-09-05T22:05:16.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what you want your players to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diminishing returns tells your players that you want to be the first to do this, and you don't want to do a lot of it. As soon as I have H2O in hand, I want to make water before anyone else does. Once it's been done, I don't want to do that unless I have to because other plays are more valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amplifying returns, on the other hand, tells your players the opposite - to wait as long as possible to do it, and then do it as much as possible. If there's any chance that an opponent will play H2O as well, I want to try and make them go first so that I get the higher score. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big concern with amplifying returns is that it can lead to paralysis unless the mechanics force you to make plays - otherwise the first player to move loses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variation of Amplifying is where the scoring escalates per player. Any sort of set-building game (like Acquire or Bohnanza) has this, where it's better to have a lot of one thing rather than a couple of many. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your game specifically, I'm guessing that if you're making molecules you'll have more complex molecules at higher point values. With diminishing returns players will naturally start moving away from the simple ones to the complicated ones because they want more points. Under escalating, I would expect people to farm Hydrogen and Oxygen to get all those nice high-point Waters before looking at something that would require more effort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T22:05:16.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2013-09-05T22:47:45.627" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a link on boardgamegeek&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/26288/monopoly-world-championship-game-rules-pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/26288/monopoly-world-championship-game-rules-pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To raise money to pay debts, only houses and hotels can be sold back&#xA;  to the bank (at half price) – never properties. If a debt is owed to&#xA;  another player, properties may be sold to a third player only if&#xA;  sufficient money is raised to cover the debt. If not, the properties&#xA;  are turned over as is (and not mortgaged if unmortgaged at the time&#xA;  the debt is incurred.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If player 3 is willing to give player 2 enough money to stay in the game, I think it is poor form for her to refuse, and deliberately lose, so that player 1 can get her stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-09-05T22:47:45.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12879" CreationDate="2013-09-06T01:57:41.607" Score="4" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have tried to look on the official Redemption REGEX and site, and have googled but can't seem to find a clarification to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother and I got into Redemption recently. There aren't as many player groups around in our area anymore so it becomes difficult to ask rules questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am curious about is if it is possible (and legal) to have more than one active artifact in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the specific scenarios I am curious about:&#xA;The Solomon's Temple fortress (and its equivalents like Zerubbabel's Temple, The Tabernacle, etc.). Since the artifact moves from your pile to your fortress, does this mean you can turn up a second artifact (not on the same turn though)? So there is one active in the Temple and one active on the artifact pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what about the Priestly Breastpiece? Since that can be attached to a high priest, does that mean that another artifact can be activated? (For that matter is it possible to have three artifacts, one on the artifact pile, one in a Temple, and one assigned to a Priest?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering what the ruling is out there and if there is clear documentation on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-09-06T02:40:52.683" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T05:03:53.740" Title="Is it possible to have more than one active artifact in Redemption?" Tags="|redemption-tcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13104" CreationDate="2013-09-06T02:11:58.683" Score="5" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently playing a &quot;pure&quot; Rebel Alliance deck. I happened to put my Snowspeeder Launch Bay (from the Battle of Hoth set) into play and also got one of my Snowspeeders (from either the Desolation of Hoth set or the Battle of Hoth set) into play. I put the Snowspeeder up to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent put up a Heavy Stormtrooper Squad to fight me. He had a TIE Attack Squadron back in his play area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I won edge and thus inflicted one damage on his trooper and one damage on the target engaged objective, but lost my Snowspeeder to his trooper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards I re-read the text of my hanger bay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;Reaction:&lt;/strong&gt; After you strike with a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Speeder&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; unit, deal 1&#xA;  damage to a target enemy &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Vehicle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; unit. If the target is a&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Walker&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; unit, also place 1 focus token on it. (Limit once per phase.)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed the lack of the words &lt;em&gt;target participating enemy unit&lt;/em&gt;. Since participating wasn't mentioned, this let me to believe that the target Vehicle can be targetted outside of combat as well. If this is true, I could damage my opponents TIE Attack Squadron as well, causing it one damage due to the reaction from the Snowspeeder Launch Bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense? Is it legal? Or can this reaction only apply to units in combat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone play this card in any tournaments? Do you know the ruling on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-09-07T16:34:35.597" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T02:33:10.150" Title="Can Rebel Alliance Snowspeeder Launch Bay affect vehicles outside combat?" Tags="|star-wars-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12877" CreationDate="2013-09-06T05:03:53.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you may have two Artifacts active.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://redemption.wikia.com/wiki/Solomon%E2%80%99s_Temple_%28Pa%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Solomon's Temple's&lt;/a&gt; rules text seems pretty clear on the matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Holder may activate a second Artifact from Artifact pile or hand on this Fortress if that Artifact was found in Solomon's Temple. Artifact takes immediate effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cactusgamedesign.com/downloads/rulebook_10th_anniversary.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;Artifact Activation&lt;/strong&gt; only prevent one artifact from being active on the &lt;strong&gt;artifact pile&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Artifact Activation:&lt;/strong&gt; Only one artifact in the artifact pile may be active at a time. Once per turn, you may select one artifact to be activated and flip it face up on your artifact pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T05:03:53.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2013-09-06T15:41:48.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you sacrifice an attacking or blocking creature during the declare blockers step, it won't deal combat damage. If you wait until the combat damage step, but the creature you wish to sacrifice is dealt lethal damage, it'll be destroyed before you get a chance to sacrifice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5797" LastActivityDate="2013-09-06T15:41:48.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-07T00:23:15.293" Score="5" ViewCount="2337" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play a &quot;New Rule&quot; that allows an action &quot;once during your turn&quot; (Recycling, Goal Mill, etc.) - do I get to take those action immediately, or is my turn now over because I've completed my &quot;played one&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that new rules go into effect immediately, what I'm not clear on is exactly when my turn is over for the &quot;once during your turn&quot; clause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5801" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:21:26.873" Title="Fluxx &quot;Once during your turn&quot; New Rule cards" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12881" CreationDate="2013-09-07T04:36:02.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;New Rules take effect immediately. Your turn is over after you have completed all the required rules and you have chosen not to perform any optional actions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Online FAQ&lt;/a&gt; and the rules both tell you that new rules take effect immediately (I didn't quote the rules pdf, but look under &lt;strong&gt;New Rule:&lt;/strong&gt;, and also gives blue example boxes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Suppose the rule is Play 2 and for my second play I change the rules to Play 3. Do I play one more card or am I done because I played 2?&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: All rules take effect immediately, so you would need to play 1 more card because the rules at that point had become Play 3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turn order is described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://sf.looneylabs.com/literature/Fluxx4.0Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On Your Turn:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Draw the number of cards currently required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Play the number of cards currently required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) Discard down to the current Hand Limit (if any). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Comply with the current Keeper limit (if any). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optional actions allowed by New Rules, Keepers, etc may be performed at any point during this sequence.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.trollandtoad.com/p300326.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recycling&lt;/a&gt; is an optional rule that says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, &lt;strong&gt;you may&lt;/strong&gt; discard a Keeper you have on the table and Draw 3 extra cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can choose to use its ability anytime during your turn sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-07T04:36:02.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12883" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12893" CreationDate="2013-09-07T15:44:15.627" Score="8" ViewCount="805" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen that there are tournaments of Android: Netrunner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding data packs, is it necessary to buy all the data packs to have a chance to win those tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the cards allowed to be played in tournaments are described to players before the tournaments and the constructed decks have to stick to the tournaments rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I stick to the core set of cards, do I have a chance of winning a game against someone who has all the expansions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2392" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T08:02:40.787" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T08:12:37.033" Title="Do I need to buy data packs to be competitive?" Tags="|deck-building|android-netrunner|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12886" CreationDate="2013-09-08T00:43:08.890" Score="4" ViewCount="5812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast a 1/1 creature, and want to enchant it in the same phase.&#xA;My opponent has an enchantment with the ability to pay one mana to give 1 damage to creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast the creature - no counterspell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then want to cast a +3/+3 enchantment on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can my opponent &quot;counter&quot; that enchantment by using said ability to give my creature 1 damage in response to me casting the enchantment. I think he can, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5804" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T02:31:55.630" Title="Countering the enchanting of a creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12885" CreationDate="2013-09-08T01:40:30.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, your opponent can deal 1 damage to the 1/1, destroying it before the Aura resolves. This will counter the Aura on resolution, since it doesn't have a legal target to enchant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auras are an enchantment sub-type. When cast, they require a legal target of the type of permanent (or sometimes player) that they will enchant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4a An Aura spell requires a target, which is restricted by its enchant ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1b &lt;strong&gt;Aura spells are always targeted.&lt;/strong&gt; These are the only permanent spells with targets. An Aura's target is specified by its enchant keyword ability (see rule 702.5, &amp;quot;Enchant&amp;quot;). The target(s) are chosen as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. An Aura permanent doesn't target anything; only the spell is targeted. (An activated or triggered ability of an Aura permanent can also be targeted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Auras are targeted spells, if the creature they were targeting is destroyed, then all of the spells targets are illegal and the Aura spell is countered on resolution and is placed in its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. [...] &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &amp;quot;target,&amp;quot; are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.3a If the object that's resolving is an Aura spell, its resolution involves two steps. &lt;strong&gt;First, it checks whether the target specified by its enchant ability is still legal, as described in rule 608.2b.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 702.5, &amp;quot;Enchant.&amp;quot;) If so, the spell card becomes a permanent and is put onto the battlefield under the control of the spell's controller attached to the object it was targeting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T02:31:55.630" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1986" CreationDate="2013-09-08T19:27:35.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late reply is exceedingly late, but oh well. I tested these rules out and liked them; I also came up with some modifications I think add a little length and tension to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Objective:&lt;/strong&gt; Get 16 victory points before 4 years are up. &lt;em&gt;(N.B. this is theoretically extensible for use with add-ons et cetera- the 4VP/1yr formula seems to balance decently.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional stipulations:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not remove the &quot;Conflict&quot; event.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game, roll the resource die 3 times, taking the top card of the appropriate development card pile each time (roll again on a 6). Place these 3 cards off to the side; they are the neutral player's hand, which can be affected by &quot;Spy&quot; cards or &quot;Conflict&quot; events (if you have earned the knight token). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If, at the end of your turn (after you have refilled your hand if applicable), the neutral hand has less than 3 cards: roll to refill the neutral hand to 3 cards in the same way as at the beginning of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Every time the &quot;Year End&quot; card is drawn, repeat the process from the beginning of the game of shuffling 4 random cards along with it and placing them at the bottom of the pile. &lt;em&gt;(N.B. this is also theoretically extensible in both directions- it excludes 0-X events from the current year, where X is the number shuffled along with the &quot;Year End&quot; card, so game length will tend to increase as X decreases, and vice versa. However, this also reduces or intensifies the impact of luck respectively- X=4 is a good balance of all factors.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When playing development cards, you must respect type: red developments can be played only on the additional spaces provided by a city. These may be built before or after green developments, but a city may only have 0-2 green developments and 0-2 red developments.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A settlement (town or city) is considered &quot;complete&quot; when all of its development spaces are occupied (2 for a town, 4 for a city). Developments in a settlement confer their effects as normal (for example, knights contributing strength towards the knight token), but nothing in a settlement- including the settlement itself- is worth any VP until that settlement is complete. (This means a completed village is once again worth 0 VP upon upgrading to a city.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possibly intended by original author but not explicitly mentioned:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rolling a windmill on the event die while in possession of the windmill token entitles you to a free resource, as though you &quot;stole&quot; it from the neutral player&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for the &quot;Merchant&quot; cards, which essentially become free one-time 1:2 trades.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, feel free to critique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5805" LastEditorUserId="5805" LastEditDate="2013-09-08T19:38:25.040" LastActivityDate="2013-09-08T19:38:25.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12890" CreationDate="2013-09-08T22:41:59.017" Score="4" ViewCount="2043" Body="&lt;p&gt;People like Marty Bergen have written things like, &quot;almost anytime you're responding to your partner's 1NT and you have few clubs, you should respond 2 clubs,&quot; Stayman (this is a paraphrase, not an exact quote).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point I think he was trying to make was that you should aim for a two-level suit contract, even with something like (s) xxxx (h) xxx (d) xxxxx (c) x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, you're bidding Stayman while, weak, not aiming for a game contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner responds 2 diamonds (no four card major), should you just pass and be glad he bid your &quot;suit,&quot; even though he might have a 3-3-2-5 distribution? If he bids 2 hearts, should you accept what may be &quot;Moysian&quot; (4-3) fit and pass? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, should you pass whatever your partner bids, after bidding a weak Stayman? Are there exceptions to the rule? Or would you recommend against bidding this way with the hand listed above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T05:32:24.320" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T11:52:21.877" Title="How do I bid using &quot;weak Stayman&quot; (or garbage stayman)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12889" CreationDate="2013-09-09T00:39:40.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One you have decided to bid a weak Stayman, &lt;strong&gt;it is imperative that you pass opener's rebid&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any subsequent action of any sort by your hand categorically promises 8+ points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, you must have a hand that can tolerate any of the three acceptable responses to Stayman. It is unwise to make this bid with club tolerance for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Partner responds 2D too often, and you have jumped into an inferior contract that is easier for the opponents to double than was 1NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You lose the valuable inference from the auction following that you have &lt;strong&gt;either&lt;/strong&gt; a few points &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; club tolerance &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; both:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1NT    P     P    Dbl&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  It is possible to play more complicated sequences in these situations, but they must be very well discussed with partner. It is extremely demoralizing for a partnership to be at risk of 500 or 800 point sets on every 1NT opening, due to bad experience with &lt;strong&gt;toys&lt;/strong&gt; like poorly agreed weak Stayman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T00:39:40.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2013-09-09T03:20:50.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Put value cards in a binder. I put all my land in a seperate box. Another box is then organized into columns based off of color/artifact/multicolor. Those columns are organized by format, then into set in chronological order as they were released. Each section is in alphabetical order. The columns for Standard contain dividers based off of how close they are to rotation as well as what set. If a card is a staple like lightning bolt, I have it in a box that was for a fat pack that is organized into a similar way. If a card has been printed multiple times, I put them all with the most recent printing of the card. I try to get rid of any copies over what I think I will need generally 8 since I card pool with someone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5807" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T03:20:50.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12822" CreationDate="2013-09-09T04:01:12.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, I finally figured out the format used by WordBiz to store annotated games.  To get the annotation for one of your recent 10 games which you are observing, you choose Save under the File menu and the annotated game will appear in the log file (whatever file you have chosen to be your log, log.txt in WordBiz directory by default).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The format itself I cannot find documented but I can describe it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line 1 is by example: Internet Scrabble Club, 08:Sep:13, dictionary: TWL, time: 10 0 rated, noescape: ON, challenge: VOID&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have date, dictionary, time, rated, and challenge method most importantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line 2 has each player along with their rating and initial rack.  Player 1 in the left side, Player 2 is right side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Line 3 and on to the second to last row are the actual plays.  You get the round, play, the score for that play and the new rack for each player in each round.  Cumulative score is not stated on each line.  CHANGE is shown for an exchange along with the new rack. PAS is shown for a pass, including for the end of game event where player 1 has run out of tiles and therefore player 2 gets no move for the last round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last line shows the game score for each player.  It does not show ratings adjustments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, comments are not stored in this format like they are in gcg.  I do not know what the name of this format is, but it appears quite likely that it is a custom format meant especially for WordBiz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T04:01:12.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12883" CreationDate="2013-09-09T08:12:37.033" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In theory, all Android: Netrunner cards are fairly well balanced, and the core set provides a good broad base for building decks, but in practice &lt;strong&gt;I think buying data packs is necessary to remain competitive&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will probably find that you will struggle against a player of similar ability even in a casual environment if they have all data packs and you have none. Competitive tournament players will have two (or commonly three) core sets and every data pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, &lt;strong&gt;you don't need to buy &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; data pack&lt;/strong&gt;. A little research into what kind of deck you'd like to build (possibly using proxies) will allow you to pinpoint data packs containing cards that will help your deck in particular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One final comment worthy of note: how you play with your deck is often more important than how you build your deck. A good player with a bad deck will often overcome a bad player with a good deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T08:12:37.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-09T11:32:32.390" Score="3" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are playing Canasta with two players, and you have 9's down in your meld, can you discard another 9 from your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5810" LastEditorUserId="11463" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T13:02:58.907" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T20:33:01.363" Title="In Canasta, may I discard a card of a rank I have melded?" Tags="|canasta|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12894" CreationDate="2013-09-09T14:11:28.407" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not, in my copy of Hoyle's Rules of Card Games, a requirement to meld any particular card. Nor is there a requirement to meld at all in a given turn, either. It is usually better to meld what you can, but it's not a requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hoylegaming.com/rules/showrule.aspx?RuleID=204&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoyle Gaming website's Canasta Rules&lt;/a&gt;, it says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How the Game Is Played&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game, one card is flipped to the discard pile. If that card is a 2, joker, or red 3, another card is flipped on top of it and the pile is frozen. Before play begins, any red 3s in players’ hands are automatically played to the 3 pile on the board and replaced with new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, you either draw a card from the draw pile or pick up the discard pile. See “Picking Up the Discard Pile” earlier in this chapter. If you pick up the discard pile, the top card of the pile is automatically played to the appropriate card pile. If the pile was frozen, you must then also play two natural cards to that pile; if you don’t, you won’t be able to take the pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, meld cards to the table, if you want to. (The first play your team can make is the initial meld.) You may be able to undo melds, if you need to; see the in-game help for details. At the end of your turn, discard a card by dragging it to the discard pile. You must always keep at least one card in your hand at the end of a turn, unless you are going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Melding is explicitly &amp;quot;if you want to&amp;quot;... The only compulsory behaviors are the draw, the discard, and that after discard, one must retain one card in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, it notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Going Out&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your team is qualified to go out (ending the current hand) if you have at least one canasta on the table. To go out, either you or your partner must play all of the cards in your hand to the table. The last card in your hand can either be melded or discarded; this is the only time in the game you are not required to discard at the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This provides that one need not discard when going out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/canasta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bycicle's Rules Page for Canasta&lt;/a&gt; says of melding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player may meld as many cards as he pleases, of one rank or different ranks, forming new melds or adding cards to previous melds. (But see restrictions on &amp;quot;Going Out&amp;quot;.) All the melds of a partnership are placed in front of either partner. A partnership may meld in a rank already melded by the opponents, but may not make two different melds of the same rank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player may add additional cards to a meld by his side, provided that the melds remain valid (having no more than three wild cards). He may not add cards to the opponents' melds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No compulsion to meld is listed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T14:11:28.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12899" CreationDate="2013-09-09T14:45:45.303" Score="8" ViewCount="481" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Alchemy, the rules for what kinds of cards can replace a trashed card are governed by the following, somewhat ambiguous wording:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Adding coins to a cost doesn't affect [potion] being in the cost or&#xA;  not. If [potion] was in the cost, it still is; if it wasn't, it still&#xA;  isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules then present an example with Remodel card. However, the Remodel card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gain a card costing &lt;em&gt;up to&lt;/em&gt; two more . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Governor card wording is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gain a card costing exactly one (or two [if you're the player playing&#xA;  the card]) more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for the player who played the Governor card, it is clear from the remodel example that a card costing exactly 2 coins must be replaced by a card costing exactly 4 coins with no potion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what about a card costing exactly 2 coins and a potion? If trashed, must it be replaced with a card costing exactly 4 coins and a potion? Or could it also be replaced by a card costing exactly 4 coins (but with no potion)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:04:52.470" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:04:52.470" Title="When Governor and Alchemy cards are in same game, how does gaining a card for trashed card work?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|dominion-promotional|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12896" CreationDate="2013-09-09T15:09:27.970" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It must have a potion. The rule states that any time any cost is increased, the potion quantifier stays. Since the card you are trashing has one potion in the cost, the card you pick up also has to have one potion in its cost. For more strategy with this card (albeit not help with this particular question!) check &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Governor&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5733" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T15:09:27.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12900" CreationDate="2013-09-09T16:07:34.383" Score="3" ViewCount="945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose South opens with 1 NT (15-17). After two passes, East doubles, showing possession of most of the remaining 23-25 high card points not held by South.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1NT P P Dbl&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South has a flat 4-3-3-3 distribution, with no real suit preference (incidentally, I wouldn't open 1NT with a bare 15, preferring a short minor, with a flat distribution). Can he &quot;redouble&quot; for rescue&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A NT bid severely limits the bidder's strength and shape. In this case, South is asking North to bid his longest (hopefully 5-card) suit as a form of &quot;damage control.&quot; If North has a Yarborough (no high card points) will s/he likely interpret South's redouble as such? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there too much of a danger (between reasonably good players) that North will pass out South?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, does a &quot;redouble&quot; in this context work like a takeout double, where partner has to answer unless he plans to play to punish the opponents) with a strong hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T19:17:03.000" Title="In bridge, if a 1 NT bidder is doubled, is it right to &quot;redouble for rescue?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12896" CreationDate="2013-09-09T17:00:44.497" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;@JHaasie77's answer is spot on, I just want to add another way to think about it that grew too long for a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Costs with potions are like complex numbers, with the potion cost corresponding to the imaginary part. The now-defunct Isotropic online Dominion server handled this quite nicely using &lt;code&gt;p&lt;/code&gt; to designate potions. If you played 3 Coppers and 2 Potions, Isotropic would report the amount of money you have to spend as &lt;code&gt;3+2p&lt;/code&gt; (or something like that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this analogy, University costs &lt;code&gt;2+p&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Governor&lt;/code&gt;ing a University calls for adding exactly 1 (or 2 if you're the player playing the card) to the cost. Thus the card you gain from trashing a University to a Governor must be exactly &lt;code&gt;2+p+1 = 3+p&lt;/code&gt; (or if you played the Governor, &lt;code&gt;2+p+2 = 4+p&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The analogy isn't perfect for cards like Remodel specifying &quot;costing up to &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt; more&quot;, but it's workable. The &quot;up to&quot; applies to both coin part and to potion part. Remodeling a University lets you gain a card costing up to &lt;code&gt;2+p+2 = 4+p&lt;/code&gt;, so up to &lt;code&gt;4&lt;/code&gt; in coin cost, and up to &lt;code&gt;1&lt;/code&gt; in potion cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T17:00:44.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12898" CreationDate="2013-09-09T17:24:22.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you want to, you can play it that way and does indeed make sense to play that way. But make sure you agree with your partner before springing it on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you agree to play the XX as SOS, the 1NT bidder's balancing redouble must promise a 4-3-3-3 hand, otherwise you might land in 4-2 fits. Of course, the 1NT bidder, could also gamble on an 'imperfect' 4-4-3-2 hand, hoping to land a 7+ fit (the penalty double changes the odds of partners longest suit being your 2 card suit etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T04:22:56.423" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T04:22:56.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12896" CreationDate="2013-09-09T18:49:22.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Up to' means you can exchange a card with potion in the cost into a card that does or does not not have a potion in the cost, but you can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; remodel a card with no potion in the cost into one that does.  Remodel says &quot;up to&quot;.  You may Remodel a Golem into a Gold, or Remodel an Apothecary into a Golem.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card says &quot;exactly&quot; like Governor, the card to be gained has to have the same number of potions in the cost, and the specified cost in coins.  If you play Governor, you can trash University, and the only possible card you can get in exchange is Golem, as it's the only card that costs exactly 2 more than University.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T18:49:22.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12905" CreationDate="2013-09-09T20:56:49.310" Score="1" ViewCount="2184" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valakut%2C%20the%20Molten%20Pinnacle&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a Mountain enters the battlefield under your control, if you control at least five other Mountains, you may have Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle deal 3 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going by the wording, it appears that Valakut triggers every time a mountain enters the battlefield, and then checks the number of other mountains at resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then it has to deal 3 damage to a target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Valakut put another ability on the stack when this happens? If so, what kind of ability is it?  Is it a triggered ability that can be copied with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strionic%20Resonator&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's all the same ability, then does the controller of Valakut technically have to choose a target regardless of whether he has 5 other &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;s or not? So does a Valakut and one Mountain kill a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantasmal%20Image&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Image&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T21:24:48.750" LastActivityDate="2017-10-20T15:37:30.807" Title="How does Valakut work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12903" CreationDate="2013-09-09T21:21:35.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read &quot;When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].&quot; When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. &lt;strong&gt;The ability triggers only if it is;&lt;/strong&gt; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, &lt;strong&gt;it checks the stated condition again as it resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; If the condition isn't true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the &quot;intervening 'if' clause&quot; rule. (The word &quot;if&quot; has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an &quot;if&quot; that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&#xA;  Example: Felidar Sovereign reads, &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, if you have 40 or more life, you win the game.&quot; Its controller's life total is checked as that player's upkeep begins. If that player has 39 or less life, the ability doesn't trigger at all. If that player has 40 or more life, the ability triggers and goes on the stack. As the ability resolves, that player's life total is checked again. If that player has 39 or less life at this time, the ability is removed from the stack and has no effect. If that player has 40 or more life at this time, the ability resolves and that player wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does Valakut put another ability on the stack when this happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, only one ability is put on the stack &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; the &quot;intervening 'if' clause&quot; condition is met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so what kind of ability is it? is it a triggered ability that can be copied with Strionic Resonator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is a triggered ability that can be copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's all the same ability, then does the controller of valakut technically have to choose a target regardless of whether he has 5 other Mountains or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Targets are only chosen if the ability actually triggers. (IE. the player has 5 mountains in play.) So, no, one mountain is not enough to kill a phantasmal image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the second part of CR603.4 I highlighted in bold: if when the ability resolves the player no longer has 5 mountains in play, the triggered ability will be removed from the stack and will do nothing. If the ability was duplicated with Strionic Resonator, of course that duplicated ability would also be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, in the case where 5 mountains were in play and the ability triggers, a targeted phantasmal image would die even if in response their opponent destroyed enough mountains to drop the count and counter the ability. The triggered &quot;this creature dies when targeted&quot; ability would be on the stack at that point and could no longer be stopped if the spell is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T21:28:41.137" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T21:28:41.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12903" CreationDate="2013-09-09T21:23:06.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've partially answered your own question here: there is a single ability, which checks something on resolution. But it in fact checks the condition before triggering &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; on resolution! The fancy thing going on here is often called an &quot;intervening if clause&quot;. Here's the detailed sequence of events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Valakut sees a Mountain enter the battlefield, and says &quot;maybe I need to trigger!&quot; The game checks to see if you have at least five other mountains, and if you do, the ability triggers and is placed on the stack. You choose the target here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe other things happen in response?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability checks &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt; to see if you control at least five other mountains. (Maybe one got destroyed in the meantime?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming you do, it deals three damage to the chosen target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the relevant comp rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read &quot;When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].&quot; When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn't true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the &quot;intervening 'if' clause&quot; rule. (The word &quot;if&quot; has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an &quot;if&quot; that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side note: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/228#6&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Evolve&lt;/a&gt; is a prominent recent example of a triggered ability with an intervening if clause. It doesn't target, but in some cases it can be very relevant that the ability checks again on resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for your specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there's no second ability, just the triggered ability which happens to check for a condition twice. But the ability is a triggered ability, and you can copy the whole thing with Strionic Resonator. The original and the copy will still check the &quot;if&quot; clause when they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have enough Mountains, you don't put the ability on the stack, so you don't choose a target, so no, you can't kill a Phantasmal Image with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-09-09T23:45:47.457" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T23:45:47.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12896" CreationDate="2013-09-09T23:51:22.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every card has two costs - its cost in coins, and its cost in potions. The total cost is the combination of the two. So cards like Governor that tell you to trash a card for a card costing &quot;exactly 2 more&quot; want the cost in coins to go up by two, and the cost in potions to be the same. Cards that talk about &quot;up to&quot; a certain cost may or may not include potions - Gold ($6) and Golem ($4+P) both cost less than Possession ($6+P), but neither costs more or less than the other. And if you trash a potion-cost card to something like Salvager or Forge, which explicitly mention &quot;cost in coins&quot;, the potion effectively disappears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case, if you Governor a Scrying Pool ($2+P) you can get a Golem, but not a Scout ($4), but if you Remodeled it you could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-09-09T23:51:22.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12907" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-09T23:58:42.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mice and Mystics is a story driven co-operative dungeon crawler where 1-4 players become mice adventuring through a castle in order to save it from Vanestra, the evil queen who took power upon the death of the good king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.plaidhatgames.com/games/mice-and-mystics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.plaidhatgames.com/games/mice-and-mystics&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastEditorUserId="10217" LastEditDate="2018-07-05T12:30:53.917" LastActivityDate="2018-07-05T12:30:53.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12908" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-09T23:58:42.880" Score="0" Body="Mice and Mystics is a story driven co-operative dungeon crawler where 1-4 mice adventure through a castle in order to save it from Vanestra, the evil queen who took power upon the death of the good king. " OwnerUserId="5812" LastEditorUserId="5812" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T04:50:02.813" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T04:50:02.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12463" CreationDate="2013-09-10T02:08:46.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, players may not play cards or take free actions, except when it is their turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Fluxx/FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Online FAQ&lt;/a&gt; , and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/sites/default/files/literature/MPF.rulesheet.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monty Python Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Do I get to play any cards or take any actions when it's not my turn?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: When it's someone else's turn, there's not much you get to do -- &lt;strong&gt;there are no cards you can play out of turn.&lt;/strong&gt; But you will sometimes need to make minor decisions and perform card maintenance during other players' turns. For example, if someone plays a Hand Limit and you have more cards in your hand than are allowed, you'll need to decide what to keep and what to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further evidence that supports this conclusion is that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/literature/PirateFluxxRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pirate Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/literature/StarFluxxRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Star Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; rules list a new card type &lt;strong&gt;Surprise&lt;/strong&gt; that can be played out of turn (image of purple Surprise cards with Lightning Bolt symbol from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/980181/pirate-fluxx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pirate Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Do I get to play any cards or take any actions when it not my turn?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: When it's someone else's turn, there's not much you get to do -- &lt;strong&gt;unless you have a Surprise (the only type of card you can play out of turn) .&lt;/strong&gt; But you will sometimes need to make minor decisions and perform card maintenance during other players' turns. For example, if someone plays a Hand Limit and you have more cards in your hand than are allowed, you'll need to decide what to keep and what to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluxx#Card_sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;release date&lt;/a&gt; of Pirate/Star Fluxx is after Monty Python Fluxx, so it makes sense that &lt;strong&gt;until&lt;/strong&gt; the release of Pirate Fluxx, no cards could be played out of turn, but when those sets were released with the new Surprise card type the rules specifically called that card type as an exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monty Python Fluxx (Released October 2008; mostly themed after Monty Python and the Holy Grail, with selected elements from the Monty Python's Flying Circus TV series). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/games/pirate-fluxx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pirate Fluxx&lt;/a&gt; (Released February 2011)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star Fluxx (Released September 30, 2011).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pirate Fluxx online page even notes that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yarr! Grab yer Cutlass! Pirates have taken over Fluxx, the ever-changing card game, and their rules be new and strange. There'll be times ye must Talk Like A Pirate, and rules about how ye can Plunder from yer mates. But the most excitin' treasure fer Fluxx fans new and old is the &lt;strong&gt;Surprise! - a new card type that you play out of turn!&lt;/strong&gt; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T04:56:08.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12910" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-10T02:40:34.350" Score="5" ViewCount="1916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing with 4 players in total in Saboteur 2 and we are not sure whether we are supposed to remove the other 2 Saboteur cards so that there is only 1 Saboteur.  I guess what I'm really asking is what's the exact preparation with 4 players in regards to which cards to leave in or take out for the Miners and the Saboteurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I understood it was to take out 2 of the 3 Saboteurs and leave the other miner cards in but there may be a chance that no one is a saboteur.  We then thought of taking out 2 of the 3 saboteurs but leave in only exactly 3 miners but the question then is how do you choose between 2 blue dwarves and 1 green or 2 green and 1 blue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5813" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T13:16:55.580" Title="Saboteur 2 - How many saboteur cards do you take out for 4 players?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13007" CreationDate="2013-09-10T05:55:47.010" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pantheon, you represent... the collective interests of a pantheon that's trying to get worshiped. (You score points for getting deities worshiped, but the scoring system isn't picky about which deity gets the praise or which culture does the praising.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game, you get Bonus Tiles, which have varying effects: extra movement during the spread-civilization phase, a free random god, a free upgrade to an offering tile, etc. During the game, you can pick up Booty Tokens that have similar effects to the Bonus Tiles. The rules, unfortunately, are quite sparse on what to do with the tiles and tokens. (The rules are also poorly copy-edited.) &lt;strong&gt;When can you use the tiles: are they only usable immediately, or can you keep them until some useful moment later and use them then?&lt;/strong&gt; Does the &amp;quot;Bonus Movement&amp;quot; tile grant you bonus moves every time you do the Movement step, or is it usable only once and then it's gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the bonus tiles are &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better than others; here's a quick overview.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus Movement:&lt;/strong&gt; if usable once, has the effect of &lt;em&gt;half a card.&lt;/em&gt; If usable repeatedly, is equivalent to one of the less powerful gods. (But there's a booty token that has &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; bonus movement, which could well be over-powered if it's usable repeatedly.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Random God:&lt;/strong&gt; In perfect circumstances, worth 13 victory points. On average, worth one victory point plus some continuing bonus that will last throughout the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upgrade a Sacrifice Tile:&lt;/strong&gt; If you're required to use this immediately after the game starts, it's worth 1 gold coin plus part of one buy action. If you can hold it for later (upgrading a sacrifice tile from 3 to 4), then it can be worth up to 4 gold coins plus the part of a buy action to do the upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Place a Column anywhere:&lt;/strong&gt; Depends on whether you're trying to win via placing columns or not; worth between 2 and 8 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the effect of the bonus tiles varies greatly depending on when and how you can use them, I really do want to know exactly how they're supposed to be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: I'm talking about the Pantheon game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/94480/pantheon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;published in 2011 by Hans im Gluck and Rio Grande&lt;/a&gt;, not any of the other games that happen to be called Pantheon.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T20:48:42.123" Title="How do bonus tiles and booty tokens work?" Tags="|pantheon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2013-09-10T06:02:21.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, in Saboteur 2 you never change the available roles based on the number of players. So in your 4 player game, you could have 3 Saboteurs and 1 Geologist, and a completely ridiculous mine in the end. The rules just say &quot;Shuffle the 15 role cards together&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T06:02:21.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12914" CreationDate="2013-09-10T11:04:03.230" Score="4" ViewCount="13489" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does this card work?&#xA;How do you effectively play this card?&#xA;What happens when it gets killed as a creature?&#xA;What makes this card so expensive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152724&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152724&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y7o2a.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Handlers/Image.ashx?multiverseid=152724&amp;amp;type=card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T15:54:44.293" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T16:00:43.980" Title="MTG: Mutavault - how does it work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12913" CreationDate="2013-09-10T11:12:59.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card works in much the same way as other &quot;Manland&quot; type cards. You pay the activation cost, it becomes a 2/2 creature with all creature types, and for the rest of the turn it behaves exactly as if it was a 2/2 colourless Llanowar elves (&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: this includes &lt;strong&gt;summoning sickness&lt;/strong&gt;. As long as its just a land you can tap it for mana as you could a regular land. If you turn it into a creature straight after playing it however, it has summoning sickness and you CANNOT tap it for mana).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You effectively play this card by utilising its attacking abilities at the right times, it is essentially a &quot;free creature&quot; at the cost (which can be a benefit) of turning it into a creature for 1 mana per turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it starts out and reverts to a land makes it safe from sorcery speed removal much of the time, the fact that it is all creature types makes it very potent in some tribal decks (legacy/modern merfolk), and the fact that it acts as a land until the point that you need it to be a creature makes your deck much more stable for casting expensive spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it dies as a creature, it dies. Note that spells that say &quot;target non-land permanent&quot; can't target it, it may be a creature, but its still a land. It doesn't revert to being a land if it dies, it goes to the graveyard just like anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card is expensive because of it's proven track record, and it is a very powerful example of a man land due to its low activation cost and positive tribal interactions. Merfolk decks will commonly activate this as a 4/4 or 5/5 creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T08:54:11.447" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T08:54:11.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12916" CreationDate="2013-09-10T11:44:36.220" Score="5" ViewCount="2264" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRise%20of%20the%20Dark%20Realms%5d&quot;&gt;Rise of the Dark Realms&lt;/a&gt; be beaten/avoided?&#xA;Is it possible to deflect this card so that you end up consuming it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SKTLE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5815" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2019-06-07T18:29:39.967" LastActivityDate="2019-06-07T18:29:39.967" Title="What are some strategies to beat Rise of the Dark Realms?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="12916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12915" CreationDate="2013-09-10T12:30:13.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of cards that can counter this. Here are just a few categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that say 'Counter target spell' - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; or the many variants that are capable of targeting this card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't let creatures build up in graveyards. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tormod%27s%20Crypt&quot;&gt;Tormod&amp;#39;s Crypt&lt;/a&gt;, scavenge cards, play a deck heavy on token creatures, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let it resolve, then destroy all creatures. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Damnation&quot;&gt;Damnation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgment&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt;, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you always have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phage%20the%20Untouchable&quot;&gt;Phage the Untouchable&lt;/a&gt; in your graveyard (or other cards they do not want like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tempting%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Tempting Wurm&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eater%20of%20Days&quot;&gt;Eater of Days&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T08:10:54.740" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T08:10:54.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12915" CreationDate="2013-09-10T14:17:16.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular spell requires two pretty hefty things:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. 9 mana (sure, not as difficult for black to gather as any other colour)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Several creatures in the graveyard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to win in Magic is, and always has been, with speed.  If a game is going on to the point where your opponent can easily gather 7 mana and there are a dozen creatures in the graveyard, then the game has gone on too long.  End the game before it gets to that point, and suddenly this is a card in your opponents hand that they can't use.  Which changes the card from &quot;a game winner&quot; for your opponent into a liability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice therefore, is to ignore the cards in your opponent's deck and focus on your own.  Speed it up, make it more dangerous, end the game before this card can become a game-changer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastEditorUserId="2026" LastEditDate="2013-09-10T15:52:10.337" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T15:52:10.337" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12894" CreationDate="2013-09-10T14:24:24.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Canasta, the only discard limitation is on 7s in a 6-player game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is often referred to as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/pennies.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pennies From Heaven&lt;/a&gt;, and the relevant section goes like this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sevens cannot be discarded unless both teams have completed a canasta&#xA;  of sevens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no discard limitations in any other variant of the game, so you can feel free to discard any card you like in your game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2013-09-10T14:24:24.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12915" CreationDate="2013-09-10T19:00:59.557" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, first off, it's important to understand why &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRise%20of%20the%20Dark%20Realms%5d&quot;&gt;Rise of the Dark Realms&lt;/a&gt; isn't a very powerful card in competitive one-on-one Magic&lt;/strong&gt;: you're paying nine mana for an effect of highly variable power (since you don't always have perfect control of what's in the graveyard, especially an opponent's). It's a very slow spell that lacks most of the characteristics of a good &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5257/1910&quot;&gt;finisher&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, not every game of Magic is the same as one-on-one Constructed. So, what happens if you run into this in Commander, multiplayer, or even a &quot;casual&quot; duel?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Graveyards are fragile.&lt;/strong&gt; Since the graveyard is a great zone for both &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270452&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cheating on costs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;card selection&lt;/a&gt;, there are a lot of cards printed that specifically counteract graveyard strategies. Look at how cheaply you can get graveyard hate in the form of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRest%20in%20Peace%5d&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrafdigger%27s%5d%2b%5bCage%5d&quot;&gt;Grafdigger&amp;#39;s Cage&lt;/a&gt;, for example. It's pretty easy to sneak graveyard hate into most decks, since many effective cards replace themselves (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRelic%20of%20Progenitus%5d&quot;&gt;Relic of Progenitus&lt;/a&gt;) or do more than just attack graveyards (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRakdos%20Charm%5d&quot;&gt;Rakdos Charm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScavenging%20Ooze%5d&quot;&gt;Scavenging Ooze&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nearly every strategy relying on a single powerful spell is weak to countermagic.&lt;/strong&gt; Your opponents like to play big, powerful spells? Counter them! There are tons and tons of counterspells that can meet your needs, ranging from super-fast counters (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForce%20of%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpell%20Pierce%5d&quot;&gt;Spell Pierce&lt;/a&gt;) to big value-generating counters (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCryptic%20Command%5d&quot;&gt;Cryptic Command&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDraining%20Whelk%5d&quot;&gt;Draining Whelk&lt;/a&gt;) to just plain old &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNegate%5d&quot;&gt;Negate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are lots of spells that just kill &lt;em&gt;ALL&lt;/em&gt; of the creatures.&lt;/strong&gt; Magic has a lot of &quot;sweeper&quot; effects that can clear the whole board with one spell. A simple &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWrath%20of%20God%5d&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDamnation%5d&quot;&gt;Damnation&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTerminus%5d&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRout%5d&quot;&gt;Rout&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSupreme%20Verdict%5d&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt;, ...) will reset the board for a very minor cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Someone stealing your stuff? Steal it back.&lt;/strong&gt; Someone cast Rise of the Dark Realms? Let them pass the turn and then cast that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInsurrection%5d&quot;&gt;Insurrection&lt;/a&gt; you've been holding! Or just tap your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHomeward%20Path%5d&quot;&gt;Homeward Path&lt;/a&gt; and laugh.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T09:17:12.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12898" CreationDate="2013-09-11T03:10:45.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are nigh as many ways to play this as there are bridge partnerships in the world. What is correct at any given time is &lt;strong&gt;the system you agreed to play&lt;/strong&gt; when you completed your convention card with this partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with redoubling for takeout, another common defense to the double is to pass &lt;strong&gt;forcing opener to redouble&lt;/strong&gt;, which may then either be passed for penalty by responder or converted as part of a run-out strategy. Key advantages of this scheme include:&#xA;- Distinguishing between one-suited and two-suited escapes by bidding one shape immediately, and the other delayed.&#xA;- Putting additional pressure on the doubler after the forced redouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T03:10:45.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12910" CreationDate="2013-09-11T05:01:48.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In a 4-player game, all 15 new Dwarf Cards are used.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 15 dwarf cards (4 green and 4 blue Gold Diggers, 1 Boss, 2 Geologists, 1 Profiteer, and 3 Saboteurs) are used, regardless of the number of players in the game. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Saboteur_2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, under &lt;strong&gt;Set-Up&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] Then shuffle all 15 new Dwarf Cards and deal one face-down to each player. Again, &lt;strong&gt;it does not matter how many players are taking part in the game&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T05:01:48.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-11T08:10:22.327" Score="4" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of &lt;a href=&quot;http://acts.warhorsesim.com/ttn.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ACTS&lt;/a&gt; and it works quite well. But in times of Web 2.0 I wonder -- is there an alternative to play Titan against friends (and mybe foes)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5819" LastActivityDate="2023-02-24T10:44:23.720" Title="Is there an online site to play Titan Boardgame" Tags="|online|titan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2013-09-11T08:16:49.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roland Röllig created the epic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.schroepl.net/pbm/spiele/_gilgamesch.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gilgamesch&lt;/a&gt; variant -- a highly fantasy-enriched Diplomacy game: With buildings, Magic Spells, Army fusion, Heros and so on. It is not proven, but because of the complexity I am very sure that there are no stalemate lines. The existence of Heros alone probably prevents that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh by the way: The rule book I have has 180 pgs... But its great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the standard map you should play it remotely, it just takes too long. But we played it on a Standard Dippy map once and had quite a &quot;quick&quot; game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5819" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T08:16:49.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9572" CreationDate="2013-09-11T08:37:01.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a &lt;strong&gt;movement is not interrupted by an attack&lt;/strong&gt;. Nor is a convoy, per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the attack on the convoy is still &lt;strong&gt;not strong enough to prevent it&lt;/strong&gt;! Unlike supports (which you can interfere with by a single attack, by std rules) a convoy is only interrupted &lt;strong&gt;if the convoying fleet has to retreat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A support would be interrupted, though. It would be changed to a hold order (and could be supported as such)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just some hypothetical additions to your scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;del&gt;&lt;code&gt;F MID-ENG&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/del&gt; is an &lt;em&gt;unsuccessful move&lt;/em&gt; which has a defense strength (in its start region) of 1. (In standard diplomacy all unsuccessful moves have a defense strength of 1. Since you can not &lt;em&gt;support to hold&lt;/em&gt; a unit that is &lt;em&gt;ordered to move&lt;/em&gt; this is always the case when the move is blocked.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;del&gt;&lt;code&gt;F IRA-MID&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/del&gt; is therefore also just an &lt;em&gt;unsuccessful move&lt;/em&gt;, because it has not enough strength to dislodge &lt;code&gt;F MID&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A convoy &lt;code&gt;F ENG con A Bel-Lon&lt;/code&gt; is therefore successful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even it there were an additional support of &lt;code&gt;F Bre sup F IRA-MID&lt;/code&gt; which would dislodge &lt;code&gt;F MID&lt;/code&gt; and the convoy would be successful.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5819" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T08:37:01.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8197" CreationDate="2013-09-11T08:55:22.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my best dippy games so far because the balance of the game was quite open to the end did &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; start with a &lt;strong&gt;Russia+Turkey&lt;/strong&gt; alliance. If I remember correctly it started off with a &lt;strong&gt;Turkey+Italian&lt;/strong&gt; alliance, but Italy got quickly under the hammer of &lt;strong&gt;France&lt;/strong&gt; (allied with &lt;strong&gt;England&lt;/strong&gt;, which was at war with &lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a strong &lt;strong&gt;France&lt;/strong&gt; and the right moment for &lt;strong&gt;Turkey&lt;/strong&gt; to fall in &lt;strong&gt;Italys&lt;/strong&gt; back a strong alliance &lt;strong&gt;Turkey+France&lt;/strong&gt; was the logical choice. That induced &lt;strong&gt;England&lt;/strong&gt; to side with &lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt;. And if i remember correctly a very thrilling map-wide land and sea struggle followed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, in the end &lt;strong&gt;France&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt; were successful in stabbing their respected partners simultaneously and wiped out &lt;strong&gt;England&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Turkey&lt;/strong&gt; later, but that's diplomacy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5819" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T08:55:22.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12928" CreationDate="2013-09-11T19:56:18.107" Score="13" ViewCount="2645" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trait%20Doctoring&quot;&gt;Trait Doctoring&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the text of target permanent by replacing all instances of one&#xA;color word with another or one basic land type with another until end&#xA;of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy target nonblack creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicken&quot;&gt;Quicken&lt;/a&gt; or something to time it correctly, can I use Trait Doctoring to change &amp;quot;nonblack&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;nonred&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T18:31:25.787" Title="Can Trait Doctoring be used to change words like &quot;nonblack&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12927" CreationDate="2013-09-11T20:25:02.947" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but not in your example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on gatherer for Trait Doctoring clearly supports changing 'nonblack' to 'nonred'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4/15/2013     The type-changing effect can change part of a word such as&#xA;  “nonblack” or “swampwalk” if the part of the word is being used to&#xA;  refer to a color or basic land type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Trait Doctoring specifically says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Change the text of target &lt;strong&gt;permanent&lt;/strong&gt; by...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doom blade is a not a permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to change the color referenced on Doom Blade, you would need to use a card such as Sleight of Mind, that specifically says it can target spells. (See S&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12930/3128&quot;&gt;teven Stadnicki's answer&lt;/a&gt; for more information about this combo)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T17:40:01.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12932" CreationDate="2013-09-11T23:11:57.753" Score="3" ViewCount="849" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I set up Eclipse do players have access to all the ship part tiles throughout the game? And is it acceptable for me to layout a couple of each tile on the Supply Board and top them up as players take them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T05:17:35.610" Title="Setting up Eclipse" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12927" CreationDate="2013-09-11T23:44:00.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;An important catch: color-changing cards can change the 'black' in 'nonblack', but &lt;em&gt;that still won't let you target a black creature with Doom Blade&lt;/em&gt;.  The key is that cards like Sleight of Mind can't target Doom Blade until it has gone on the stack, and to put Doom Blade on the stack in the first place you need a legal target for it, and part of the targeting restriction on Doom Blade is that the creature be non-black.  If Doom Blade had read &quot;destroy target creature unless it's black&quot; (see Pyroblast for an example of this sort of wording) then you could target a black creature with it, change the 'unless it's black' to 'unless it's red' and have it succeed; but the only way to kill a black creature with Doom Blade is to target a different creature, change Doom Blade to read e.g. 'non-red', and then change the targets of the Doom Blade with a spell like Redirect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-09-11T23:44:00.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12783" CreationDate="2013-09-12T03:56:54.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conquered Locations text is still in effect&lt;/strong&gt; after being conquered. &lt;strong&gt;Demolished Locations text is not in effect&lt;/strong&gt; after being demolished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/conquestofplanetearth/pdf%5CCOPE_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; don't make any mention of conquered locations losing their rules text. The demolish markers replace the text of the locations they are in, so naturally the locations rules are no longer in effect. This in confirmed by the lead designer and president of Flying Frog Games, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/8693/jason-c-hill&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jason C. Hill&lt;/a&gt; in this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/10284822#10284822&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BBG thread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Location Text remains in effect, even after that Location is conquered. The only time a Location's text is canceled is if it has a Demolished marker on it (which has its own text that replaces the text of the Location).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Location text DOES apply as soon as it is placed, so yes, Aliens do have to roll to see if they stumble into the powerlines with the Electric Power Plant as soon as the Location is revealed in their space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T03:56:54.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12929" CreationDate="2013-09-12T05:17:35.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The supply board contains two panels for Ship Parts; those five in the left-most panel are available to everyone at all times.  The other twelve in the right panel &amp;mdash; distinguished by the Technology icon printed on the upper right corner of the tile &amp;mdash; are only available to users who have researched the corresponding technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike most other pieces, &lt;strong&gt;Ship Parts cannot be exhausted and as such are &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; available&lt;/strong&gt;.  Even if the physical tiles themselves are somehow depleted, replacements may be used as needed.  Since the actual quantity of tiles is irrelevant, there's no reason they can't just be drawn/topped-off as they're acquired rather than all placed on the Supply Board during setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T05:17:35.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13365" CreationDate="2013-09-12T09:23:14.337" Score="3" ViewCount="317" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend just got his Pathfinder Adventure Card Game set and I watched him go through a solo game. One point that came up quite a few times was Summoned Monsters. When returning them to the box, my friend shuffled them into the monster deck every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pondered this: is &quot;returning to the box&quot; the same as Banish? Banish does say &quot;put it back into the box, shuffling it with the other cards of the same type&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is, I find it somewhat strange because it can lead to what happened to us: getting 3 Specters in a row, which was a horrible thing for a character with no magic, in a situation where the summoned monster needs to be defeated to close the location (Brigandoom, Farmhouse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5501" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T11:43:39.407" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T21:20:12.870" Title="Are Summoned Monsters shuffled with other monsters when &quot;returned to the box&quot;?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12935" CreationDate="2013-09-12T11:20:06.927" Score="6" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook combat will take place if ships that belong to two or more players finish in the same hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does combat always have to take place? Is there no rule that allows ships to pass each other without fighting? What if you are in a diplomatic relationship with another player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T14:20:56.493" Title="Initiating combat in Eclipse" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12934" CreationDate="2013-09-12T14:20:56.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combat will always take place. If you are in a diplomatic relationship with another player, that relationship is broken the moment one player enters a hex occupied by the other player. This is covered on p11 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your Diplomatic relations  stay in&#xA;  effect until the end of the game, unless you attack  one of the&#xA;  players you have Diplomatic relations with, or  they attack you.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Moving your Ships to a hex where the other player has a disc or a Ship&#xA;  is also considered an attack.&lt;/strong&gt; Both players then return the Ambassador&#xA;  Tiles and cubes  to the owner. The cube goes back to a Population&#xA;  Track,  chosen freely by the owner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no possible way to pass through a player's hex without any combat, because of pinning. p14 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your Ships move into a hex, or out from a hex, containing  other&#xA;  players’ or Ancient Ships, at least one Ship per each  opposing Ship&#xA;  must stay (the Ship is said to be &quot;pinned&quot;)  and engage in combat in&#xA;  the Combat Phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only way you can move a ship through another player's hex is if you already have 1 ship in that hex per opponent's ship in that hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T14:20:56.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12937" CreationDate="2013-09-12T18:28:20.503" Score="5" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I were playing an epic game a few days ago (in the end, he smacked me for 117 damage, only 16 of it was trample, but I only had my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=phytohydra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phytohydra&lt;/a&gt; out).  I'm kind of the rules guy in my circle, so, the way the Phytohydra's worded, I let the trample damage from his &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194130&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liege of the Tangle&lt;/a&gt; through it the turn before. Now, I know there was &lt;em&gt;no way&lt;/em&gt; for me to win after that point, but was I supposed to let the damage through like I did? or should it have completely massacred that &lt;code&gt;LotT&lt;/code&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5828" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T21:56:22.417" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T21:56:22.417" Title="Phytohydra vs Trample" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12936" CreationDate="2013-09-12T18:31:52.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;He still has to assign at least lethal damage to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phytohydra&quot;&gt;Phytohydra&lt;/a&gt; before any remaining trample damage can be assigned to the defending player.  The fact that the damage will be replaced later on when it is dealt and not actually be &amp;quot;lethal&amp;quot; does not change anything about how it is assigned.  Toughness - Damage Marked (minimum, no deathtouch) goes on the creature, then the rest can hit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking&#xA;creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned&#xA;as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the&#xA;player or planeswalker the creature is attacking. When checking for&#xA;assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the&#xA;creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during&#xA;the same combat damage step, &lt;strong&gt;but not any abilities or effects that&#xA;might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt.&lt;/strong&gt; The&#xA;attacking creature’s controller need not assign lethal damage to all&#xA;those blocking creatures but in that case can’t assign any damage to&#xA;the player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bold added by me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2013-09-12T18:37:08.077" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T18:37:08.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12944" CreationDate="2013-09-12T18:33:16.593" Score="6" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be doing my first &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/li/208&quot;&gt;Team Sealed&lt;/a&gt; event soon. I watched a video covering Grand Prix Providence and recall seeing one player sitting, playing his deck, while his two teammates coached heavily (&lt;em&gt;&quot;Don't play that, play this instead&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, &quot;&lt;em&gt;Play this first, then attack&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, etc.). I had some doubts about how it works that weren't covered by the resources I found onlne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is watching/coaching allowed by my teammates?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do all 3 players play matches at the same time?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If coaching is allowed and everyone plays at the same time, do I have to be finished with my match in order to coach my teammate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any additional insight you'd like to share about this format is appreciated as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T08:36:18.997" Title="Coaching in Team Sealed events" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7912" CreationDate="2013-09-12T21:00:27.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;extra turn&quot; mechanism in Ora et Labora is something Uwe carried over from Le Havre. The intention is to avoid the &lt;em&gt;The Kingmaker Dilemma&lt;/em&gt;, where a 3rd player is unable to win himself, but is able to choose between two actions that decide the winner. During the &quot;extra turn&quot;, players can't be blocked out of actions, so each player acts in his own best interest to put the finishing touches on his board. There's a big stochastic factor in 3-4 player, where other players just happen to get in your way by accident; this is largely missing in 2 player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the points in the game usually come from buildings, and building them in a checkerboard pattern with settlements. Late-game buildings can be as many as 15-20 points just by sitting on your board between 2 or 3 settlements. If you're finding that 2-player games tend to find cycles which create lots of points (through relics, or wonders), you could try limiting them. Wonders are already limited at 8, but you could limit the relics (and pottery, books, and ornaments) to 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5827" LastActivityDate="2013-09-12T21:00:27.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12864" CreationDate="2013-09-13T03:02:58.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that the ticket picking process is usually the slowest aspect of the game, and that turns are designed to be really short, when I play with my board gaming friends we play with a house rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The house rule is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player picks tickets, play may continue until another player&#xA;  indicates that they want to place track.  Then play stops until the&#xA;  ticket picker has finalised their decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though technically picking cards of any description gives information that the ticket picker should not have, we have found that the difference that this makes is negligible and the time saved is worth the marginal advantage that we give the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course track placement is the most important information in the game and the ticket picker should, under no circumstances, ever be allowed to see track placements before making their final decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament setting or playing with untrustworthy players I would recommend sticking to the official rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T03:02:58.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12868" CreationDate="2013-09-13T04:32:29.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Villain gets +1 Combat skill during the single Fight Round&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/atouchofevil/pdf%5CATOE_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; do mention Evil Elders outside the Showdown section. Specifically, on page 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evil Elders&lt;/strong&gt; - When a Town Elder is shown to be evil, they cease to be a Town Elder and instead become an Evil Elder. The card is flipped over, any Secrets they had are discarded, and they are repositioned next to the Villain’s Record Sheet. &lt;strong&gt;Evil Elders give the Villain +1 Combat&lt;/strong&gt; and have one Wound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bonus is applied to the Villain's Combat, regardless of whether this is a Showdown fight or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fighting the Villain&lt;/strong&gt; - Occasionally a hero will have to engage in a single Fight Round with the Villain due to a &lt;strong&gt;Mystery Card or Minion Chart result&lt;/strong&gt;. These Fights are NOT considered a Showdown and consequently, the Villain cannot actually be hurt. In these cases, a single Fight Round should be played out between the Hero and the Villain as described above (&lt;strong&gt;the Villain rolls Fight Dice equal to its Combat&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T04:32:29.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12862" CreationDate="2013-09-13T04:57:13.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are missing is that the rules are slightly different for Competitive and Cooperative play. In a competitive game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/atouchofevil/pdf%5CATOE_Rulebook_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; allow each player to accuse a single Town Elder of being evil, thereby showing that the Town Elder faked his death, and subsequently joining the Villain. The Evil Elder will add +1 Combat to the Villain, and will add +1 wound to the Villain (if the Villain is about to take its last wound). Preventing an opponent from winning is a good strategy if you want to win. (page 19)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Accusations&lt;/strong&gt; - One other advantage of investigating the Town Elder’s Secrets ahead of time is that when a player starts a Showdown, &lt;strong&gt;each other player may make up &#xA;  to one Accusation of a Town Elder&lt;/strong&gt;, calling them out as being evil! [...] If the revealed Secrets turns them into an Evil Elder, they immediately join the Villain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Winning the Game&lt;/strong&gt; - The first player to fight a Showdown with the Villain, AND defeat it, saves the town of Shadowbrook and wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the cooperative game though, dead Town Elders have their secrets revealed immediately. If they were evil, they become Evil Elders and join the Villain. (page 20)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Town Elder Secrets&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] When a Town Elder is killed, move the Shadow Track as normal and then reveal all of that Elder’s Secrets. Any Keyword Evil Secrets they have immediately take affect, turning them into an Evil Elder instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T04:57:13.500" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3307" CreationDate="2013-09-13T05:28:32.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, Flying Frog Productions seems to be very worried that people will not buy their expansions if the post the rules for them. With that being said, what the most likely mean by, &amp;quot;expanded challenge for cooperative play,&amp;quot; is that a new &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/707803/a-touch-of-evil-something-wicked-expansion?size=medium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced Cooperative Mystery Phase Chart&lt;/a&gt; is rolled on (2d6) versus the old chart (1d6 - quoted below) before drawing and reading the Mystery Card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 Darkness Falls - The Shadow Track immediately moves 2 Steps closer to Darkness. The Heroes may collectively take 5 Wounds divided as they see fit to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 Creeping Shadow - The Shadow Track immediately moves 1 Step closer to Darkness. The Heroes may collectively take 3 Wounds divided as they see fit to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3-4 Minion Attack! - Roll once on the Villain’s Minion Chart and place that Minion at a Random Location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-6 Scattered Clues - Draw a Random Location and place 2 Investigation in that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T05:28:32.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12938" CreationDate="2013-09-13T08:36:18.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are allowed to help your teammates, the tournament is based on the skill of the team and decisions made therein. If you watch the worlds coverage you will see plenty of coaching there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All 3 players play their matches at the same time. They can coach each other at any point, including mulligans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind though that you still have to play in a timely manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-09-13T08:36:18.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-13T16:41:39.533" Score="9" ViewCount="4237" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've tried out the Lab Challenge (from the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/137136/pandemic-in-the-lab&quot;&gt;In The Lab&lt;/a&gt; expansion), and I can't quite tell if it makes the game harder or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other things equal (#players, roles, # epidemics), is a game with Lab Challenge easier or harder than one without?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T13:50:24.190" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T13:50:24.190" Title="Does the Lab Challenge make Pandemic easier or harder?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-in-the-lab|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-14T00:50:14.167" Score="5" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen various versions of the rules of &quot;Baker's Dozen&quot; (e.g. on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/od/solitaire/a/bakers_dozen.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;about.com&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baker%27s_Dozen_%28solitaire%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;) stating that the rule for kings is simply that they are placed to the bottom of the column they end up in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the version given by Sheila Anne Barry in &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1402771169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Great Card Games for One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, it is stated that &quot;If a King is lying on another card of the same suit, place it underneath that card&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know of another source for that rule, and/or have any notion of which variant is most popular?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1526" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T12:48:35.080" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T15:29:00.557" Title="Baker's Dozen: rule about kings" Tags="|variants|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20956" CreationDate="2013-09-14T20:32:53.513" Score="5" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the artifact Jacob's Ladder (from the Patriarchs expansion). For the life of me I can't figure out its use or why I'd want to include it in a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text on the card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Holder may choose which Lost Soul is to be rescued during Holder's&#xA;  rescue attempt. Holder must have access and may only rescue that Lost&#xA;  Soul.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, this text makes it appear that this &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; affects the holder (ie, owner) of the card. This ability looks like it restricts which Lost Soul you can attempt to rescue. If anything, this is a restriction placed on you the player and not on your opponent. I'm not sure why I'd want to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, that style of restriction (ie, player's choice) is always used for Type II deck tournaments (as opposed to Type I deck tournaments, where that restriction apparently doesn't exist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So...can anyone explain to me the point of this card? If I'm building a Type II deck, I already have to play by those rules (good idea to follow tournament rules). And if I'm building a Type I deck, why would I want to place a restriction on myself?  Is there something I'm not understanding? Is there a ruling on this card by which it is played differently? Does anyone out there use this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T08:00:25.253" Title="What is the point of Jacob's Ladder?" Tags="|redemption-tcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5970" CreationDate="2013-09-14T21:10:40.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A maritime trade is one with the bank. The bank will NEVER trade with you at favorable terms, because it doesn't need to. The bank is only in the business of trading to &quot;make money&quot; (favorable terms for the bank, bad terms for you). The special harbor doesn't change this (although it will reduce the terms against you from 4- to -1 or 3- to -1 or 2- to -1, for that commodity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time you can get favorable terms is in domestic trade (with another player). And that happens only when the other player needs the trade more than you, and is hoping that you will give him better terms than 4- to -1 (against him).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T18:17:34.477" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T18:17:34.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2013-09-14T21:15:12.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to speed up the trading is that a player may offer only one trade at a particular RATIO (e.g. 1 to -3 or 1 to -2)  per turn. That means, I can offer you one ore for one wool and one grain (1 to -2), or one ore for one wood and two brick 1- to -3). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it eliminates different permutations of the same ratio; &quot;You won't give me one wool and one grain for one ore? How about two bricks for my one ore? No, make that two woods for my one ore.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other person can counterpropose: I won't accept one ore for one grain and one wood, but I would accept one brick for one grain and one wood (same ratio, 1:2, from the first to the second person).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in this way, a person can basically make two (not unlimited) offers per turn, one at a 2:1 ratio, the other at a 3:1 ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T17:27:28.913" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T17:27:28.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-15T03:21:03.583" Score="12" ViewCount="2574" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have two cards called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sin%20Collector&quot;&gt;Sin Collector&lt;/a&gt; in hand and I play my first, Sin Collector (A). I use its triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When Sin Collector enters the battlefield, target opponent reveals his or her hand. You choose an instant or sorcery card from it and exile that card.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I play Sin Collector (B), I use B's triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now my question. Does Sin Collector (A)'s ability trigger again as well? 'Sin Collector' entered the battlefield again, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5832" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T03:45:18.670" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T04:42:00.693" Title="Identical creatures entering the battlefield" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-07T17:37:07.070" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12951" CreationDate="2013-09-15T04:36:51.767" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, nothing weird like that happens. When a card's rules text uses that card's name, it's referring to just that specific object, not anything else that happens to have the same name. Think of it as shorthand for &amp;quot;this particular Sin Collector&amp;quot;, if you like. Here's the relevant comp rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it's on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card is really referring to other cards with that name, it will use a phrase like &amp;quot;a card named X&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;all cards named X&amp;quot;. This isn't necessary too often, but for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avarax&quot;&gt;Avarax&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Avarax enters the battlefield, you may search your library for a card named Avarax, reveal it, and put it into your hand. If you do, shuffle your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first &amp;quot;Avarax&amp;quot; there is the card referring to itself; &amp;quot;card named Avarax&amp;quot; is of course another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T04:42:00.693" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T04:42:00.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12951" CreationDate="2013-09-15T04:40:44.493" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, rules text that refers to an object by its own name just means [this] object.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it's on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T04:40:44.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12954" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-09-15T05:46:02.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sentinels of the Multiverse&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative card game for 2-5 players.  Each player plays as a superhero and works with the other players to defeat a villain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each hero, the villain, and the environment serving as a setting for the battle have their own deck of cards containing unique abilities and game-altering effects.  A game round begins with the villain deck followed by each hero in turn and ends with the environment deck.  During a hero's turn, that player may play a card from their hand, use one of their hero's powers, and draw a card from their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sentinels of the Multiverse has many expansions, adding new hero, villain, and environment deck options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rook City&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infernal Relics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shattered Timelines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vengeance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrath of the Cosmos&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Villains of the Multiverse (standalone expansion)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oblivaeon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several mini-expansions have been added as well, adding a single new character, villain, or environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Visit the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official site&lt;/a&gt; for more information about how to play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tag Usage:&lt;/strong&gt; This tag can be used for any questions about Sentinels of the Universe or its expansion sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T18:47:47.067" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T18:47:47.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12955" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-09-15T05:46:02.070" Score="0" Body="A cooperative card game where 2-5 players play superheroes and team up to take down a villain while fighting to survive in a deadly environment." OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="5762" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T13:39:07.527" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T13:39:07.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2013-09-15T14:25:45.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use diplomacy and persuasion. In games I play with a mix of players, players are very fearful of the player(s) known to be expert, and lax towards beginners. This comes into play most especially with trading strategies and the robber. A strong player in the lead is heavily embargoed, offered very lob-sided trades, and/or draws the robber far more frequently than other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These actions don't happen by themselves - players strongly discuss with each other how to cooperatively hamper the expert player with 7 or 8 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A succinct way of saying this is to employ Settler of Catan's normal slow-the-leader-mechanisms but more aggressively against the better players and less aggressively against the beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, to counter this, the expert will employ &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6984/what-is-optimal-end-play-in-settlers&quot;&gt;leap to victory strategies&lt;/a&gt; . . .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T14:25:45.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13052" CreationDate="2013-09-15T16:56:17.193" Score="3" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;building,&quot; I refer to those activities such as roads and settlements that are heavy on wood and brick requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;development,&quot; I refer to those activities that require the other three commodities, ore, grain, and wool, such as buying cities and development cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to be &quot;too good&quot; at the building phase of the game, to the detriment of the development phase of the game? Conversely is it possible to be so focused on development that you fall critically behind in building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you avoid these pitfalls? Is there a transition/balance between building and development, and if so, how do you manage it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T21:08:30.740" Title="In Settlers of Catan, is there a transition/evolution between &quot;building&quot; and &quot;development&quot; phases of the game?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12959" CreationDate="2013-09-15T17:01:58.613" Score="8" ViewCount="2805" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the kind of sequence I'm talking about. You finished your last turn with eight victory points (VP)s. Between then and your current turn, one opponent interrupted another opponent's longest road, and you now have longest road and ten VPs at the beginning of your turn. If you have the required VPs at the end of your turn, you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it true (in some variants), that you might possibly draw a card that increases your VP requirement from 10 to 11 so that you don't win at the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above is true, is there an antidote for this? Is it possible for you to follow a course of action that doesn't prevent you from having the requisite victory points at the end of your turn? Or does every course of action (in a particular variant) have a chance (however slight) of derailing your victory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T17:55:44.227" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T18:08:25.003" Title="In Settlers of Catan, is it possible to avoid &quot;losing a won game?&quot;" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12958" CreationDate="2013-09-15T17:34:58.783" Score="16" Body="&lt;h1&gt;10 Points On Your Own Turn = You Win!&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 10 or more points at any time during your turn, you win the game outright immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.universityofcatan.com/faq/faqq48301.html&quot;&gt;University of Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q:    &lt;strong&gt;Can a player win the game when it is not her turn?&lt;/strong&gt; For instance, during another player's turn, the player remembers that she has a victory point card and that card along with other points that she accumulated gives her 10 points. Can she win during another player's turn or does she have to wait her turn to play the victory point card and declare herself the winner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A:    &lt;strong&gt;You can only win during your turn.&lt;/strong&gt; If somehow you earn enough points to win during another player's turn (such as getting Longest Road because another player broke the longest road, or because you remember your victory point card) you must still wait until your turn. &lt;strong&gt;However, you can win at any point during your turn, even before you roll the dice&lt;/strong&gt;. On the other hand, if another player earns 10 points before your turn, that player will be the winner even though you had 10 points first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Fear the Boot&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there's a particular mini-expansion called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/19343/the-settlers-of-catan-the-fishermen-of-catan&quot;&gt;Fishermen of Catan&lt;/a&gt;. You can find the rules online (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/fishermen_rules_122806.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF link&lt;/a&gt;). This expansion contains the &quot;Old Shoe.&quot; Every time your fisheries produce resources, there's a chance you'll draw the Old Shoe card, which can turn your 10/10 VP into 10/11 VP. Oh noes!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a rules quote (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;D. That Old Shoe&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of the tokens shows an &quot;old shoe&quot; that you might&#xA;  accidentally draw while collecting a fish token. &lt;strong&gt;If you&#xA;  draw the old shoe, you must reveal it immediately!&lt;/strong&gt; Keep&#xA;  the old shoe face up in front of you. As long as the old&#xA;  shoe is in your possession, &lt;strong&gt;you will need 1 additional&#xA;  victory point to win the game&lt;/strong&gt;! So, you would need&#xA;  11 victory points to win the basic Settlers game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is good news, however! &lt;strong&gt;During your turn after&#xA;  rolling the dice&lt;/strong&gt;, you can give the old shoe away! &lt;strong&gt;You can&#xA;  give the shoe to any other player who has the same or&#xA;  more victory points than you. But, if you alone have the&#xA;  most points, you must keep the old shoe for yourself!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it looks like the Old Shoe &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;, in fact, &quot;turn a win into a loss&quot; if this scenario happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get 10 VPs on some other player's turn (per the Longest Road example in the question).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then another player's roll generates resources for you, and you end up with the Old Shoe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't win on your turn because of your new VP threshold.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another player goes after you, gets to 10 VP, and wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, if an opponent already has a lot of VP on the board just like you, you can do this on your turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(same) You get 10 VPs on some other player's turn (per the Longest Road example in the question).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(same) Then another player's roll generates resources for you, and you end up with the Old Shoe.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You roll the dice, then give the Old Shoe away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claim your victory immediately (as above)!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is yet another case where it's useful to hide your +VP dev cards in your hand until the exact moment you claim the win (sine it makes it easier to dump the Shoe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-09-15T18:08:25.003" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T18:08:25.003" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2013-09-15T18:14:26.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you allow 5 cities and 6 settlements, you increase the possible number of permutations for victory. This gives newbies more chances to win by getting lucky (although the rule is &quot;neutral&quot; on its face so the newbies won't know this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does require more pieces. (You may borrow them from another set, or just &quot;manufacture&quot; them for this one game.) It works like a Monopoly game in which there are unlimited numbers of houses and hotels (and money earned from Free Parking), rather than the regulation numbers. This helps weaker players by increasing the luck factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in contrast to another proposal for 3 cities and 4 settlements, which helps experienced players (because they are the only ones that can figure out the critical combination).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way is to start everyone with two cities instead of two settlements (four victory points instead of two). It's easier to get six more victory points by luck than eight, but again it's neutral on its face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T18:14:26.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-15T18:25:14.030" Score="14" ViewCount="4860" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for the &lt;em&gt;Wonder Pack&lt;/em&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple players take cards from the discard pile during a given turn, the resolution order is the following: Halikarnassos, The Great Wall, Manneken Pis, Salomon and finally, Courtesan’s Guild&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let’s say Alice plays this ability from &lt;em&gt;Halikarnassos&lt;/em&gt; and Bob plays it from &lt;em&gt;The Great Wall&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice chooses a card from the discard pile. &lt;strong&gt;Does she have to put it in play before Bob chooses a card?&lt;/strong&gt; Or do they put their cards in play simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T05:38:53.957" Title="Choose from discard pile ability: put into play simultaneously?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12963" CreationDate="2013-09-15T18:41:51.480" Score="4" ViewCount="7829" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other player plays a spell which makes me tap 3 lands.  I want to play another instant on top of his instant using the 3 mana from the lands that will be tapped. Can I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;me: I have 3 lands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;opponent: plays instant, taps 3 lands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;me: Wants to play instant on the same stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;me: instant needs those 3 mana he is going to take&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5838" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T17:45:02.687" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T20:07:06.877" Title="Can I tap land for mana AFTER opponent tapped those lands if it's in the same stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12962" CreationDate="2013-09-15T19:47:55.273" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your opponent played a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Early%20Frost&quot;&gt;Early Frost&lt;/a&gt;, which taps (up to) three target lands. (Side note: lands are not mana, they produce mana.) When this happens, it doesn't resolve immediately; it goes onto the stack. At that point, you have the opportunity to respond with things that can be done at &amp;quot;instant speed&amp;quot;, activating abilities and playing instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you can respond by playing an instant, tapping those three lands for mana to pay for it. You can also simply respond by tapping the lands for mana and leaving it in your mana pool, if you'd like to play something later during the current step and phase. Either way, when Early Frost actually resolves after your spell resolves, it will still tap those three target lands, but they're already tapped, so nothing really happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent really wants to stop you from playing an &lt;em&gt;instant&lt;/em&gt; with that mana, the only way they can really do it is tap your lands down at a time when you wouldn't want to play your instant. For example, if it needs to get cast during combat, they could tap your lands before combat. But it's a lot more straightforward to use it to prevent casting a non-instant spell, by tapping down lands during upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T14:55:39.693" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T14:55:39.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13011" CreationDate="2013-09-15T22:27:29.173" Score="5" ViewCount="4287" Body="&lt;p&gt;One example is when you (West) lead a singleton against a trump contract, hopefully to your partner's ace, s/he takes it, and then East leads back a spot card in the suit for you to ruff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the led suit and the trump suit, there are two side suits, so partner will lead a high spot for a return lead the higher side suit, and a low spot spot for the lower side suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what other situations would people would use a suit preference signal. I once read a Marty Bergen book that said the suit preference signals are used mainly by Easts. Is that true? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T16:47:51.557" Title="When and how do you use suit preference signals in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12974" CreationDate="2013-09-15T22:56:02.903" Score="1" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;After combat has finished and you have drawn between 1 and 5 Reputation Tiles, can you exchange any Reputation Tiles you have on your Reputation Track for any that you draw from the bag? So if I have a space with a 1 Reputation tile and I draw a 4 from the bag can I swap the 1 for the 4? And what happens to the 1 - does it go back in the bag or into a discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T20:41:28.487" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T20:41:28.487" Title="How does Reputation Tile swapping work?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12965" CreationDate="2013-09-15T23:09:08.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The priority of defensive signals is Attitude, then Count, then Suit Preference. Alphabetical order for those of us who speak English. The key on defence is that every card played should be one of those signals when possible, which usually means whenever a choice of equivalent, or apparently equivalent, cards is available. Therefore in all cases below, interpret &lt;em&gt;signal&lt;/em&gt; as &lt;em&gt;played-card&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a &lt;em&gt;signal&lt;/em&gt; can sensibly be interpreted as Attitude, treat it as an &lt;em&gt;Attitude signal&lt;/em&gt;; if a &lt;em&gt;signal&lt;/em&gt; cannot sensibly be interpreted as an &lt;em&gt;Attitude signal&lt;/em&gt;, then interpret it as a &lt;em&gt;Count signal&lt;/em&gt;; when it cannot sensibly be interpreted as either an &lt;em&gt;Attitude signal&lt;/em&gt; or as a &lt;em&gt;Count signal&lt;/em&gt;, then interpret it as a &lt;em&gt;Suit-Preference signal&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some special cases apply when it is almost certainly &lt;em&gt;common knowledge&lt;/em&gt; that one defender is not interested in one or two of those signals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defenders do not give attitude in the trump suit, so the first signal is count and the second is suit-preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When leading for a likely ruff by partner, partner needs to receive suit-preference as a priority, so this signal is given each time rather than either of the others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T23:09:08.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12973" CreationDate="2013-09-15T23:19:27.290" Score="2" ViewCount="1293" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are all the ship part tiles infinitely stackable? We were ending up with Interceptors with 6 Ion Cannons (adhering to the power supply of course). And are the power sources stackable? Can you stack two or three Nuclear sources, for example, to generate 9 power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T05:21:56.940" Title="Eclipse ship parts - infinitely stackable?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12965" CreationDate="2013-09-15T23:20:23.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One suit-preference situation that frequently comes up when you lead an A or K (whichever you have agreed to lead from AKx(xx)) against a suit contract, and dummy comes down with a stiff in that suit. Most partnerships play that partner's spot in this situation is suit-preference for the other side suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, when you expect partner to ruff your lead, it should be suit preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have solid honor sequences in a suit, the order in which you cash the honors should give suit preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many partnerships agree to play &quot;trump suit preference&quot; signals; in this agreement, when you follow to the trump suit, you play your spots in suit preference order (e.g. a low spot first to show preference for the lower side suit). This agreement arises out of the sense that giving count in the trump suit often helps declarer more than partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some partnerships play suit preference signals at No Trump whenever declarer appears to be cashing out a long suit, in order to help partner choose discards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some partnerships give suit preference much more often. In the Granovetters' obvious-shift agreement (described in the book &quot;A Switch in Time&quot;), the signal to the first trick is a modified attitude signal (encourage when you like the opening lead or can't stand a switch to the &quot;obvious shift&quot; suit, which is determined by looking at dummy and applying certain rules), and all remaining signals are suit preference, with specific exceptions carved out for count signals. They argue that this agreement helps them find the right defense more often than more standard agreements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-09-15T23:20:23.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12972" CreationDate="2013-09-15T23:21:08.997" Score="3" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;We really didn't understand this rule (page 7 of the manual): &quot;3 x Ancient Technology: you may take the cheapest Technology Tile you don't already have...&quot;. How do you decide what is the cheapest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T20:39:54.293" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T12:04:04.393" Title="What does 'cheapest' mean in the Ancient Technology rule?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2922" CreationDate="2013-09-15T23:48:15.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although &quot;prospector&quot; seems like one role, there are two people playing it. Call them prospector 1 and prospector 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If prospector 1 is chosen for the current round and prospector 2 isn't, prospector 2 will get a coin placed on him. Meaning that he will be chosen the next time someone needs a prospector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prospectors were inserted in the game as a &quot;mechanic&quot; to keep the number of agents greater than the number of players by three. There are no prospectors in a three person game, one in a four person game, and two in a five person game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T16:30:30.013" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T16:30:30.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12970" CreationDate="2013-09-16T05:09:02.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;cheapest Technology Tile&quot; is counted according to the technology's &lt;em&gt;base price&lt;/em&gt;; technology discounts are irrelevant.   Ergo, of all the available technology tiles, you pick the one (that you don't already have) that is left-most on the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's more than one &quot;cheapest&quot; technology available (i.e. multiple technologies in the left-most column), you can take your pick of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T05:09:02.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12968" CreationDate="2013-09-16T05:21:56.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you're obeying the basic rules of shipbuilding, you can put as many of any ship part (Ancient ship parts notwithstanding) on your ship as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the effects of ship parts are cumulative (e.g. two power sources would provide twice as much power as one), ship parts themselves can not &quot;stack&quot; infinitely.  Each ship class has a very finite amount of space, which is printed on the player card.  A typical (e.g. Terran) Interceptor, for example, only has four slots available for ship parts, one of which &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be used for a drive.  If you want to put a new ship part into one of the spaces, you have to remove the old one (or cover up the pre-printed one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, only four ship parts can be active on the Interceptor at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So between the drive and (presumably) a power supply, you could have at most two Ion Cannons on an Interceptor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T05:21:56.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12966" CreationDate="2013-09-16T07:50:42.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/732184/eclipse-rules-in-pdf-format&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 21, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may not draw more than five tiles. Choose one of the tiles and place it face down on your Reputation Track. Put the rest of the tiles back in the bag. &lt;strong&gt;If the track is full, you may return any of your Reputation Tiles (including the one you just drew or one from the track) in the bag.&lt;/strong&gt; The tiles are drawn in the order the play­ers entered the hex, so that the player who first entered the hex will draw all his tiles first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can put the 1 back in the bag &lt;em&gt;if your reputation track is full&lt;/em&gt; to free a space to place the 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T07:50:42.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2013-09-16T18:51:40.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subtle ways to handicap yourself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Randomly choose which cards you have to discard when the 7s are rolled and you are over the limit. Can't 'protect' the building you were going to build on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Limit building to 1 thing per turn. This prevents you from expanding quickly and steamrolling the game when you have good placements/rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Never trade at an advantage for yourself. Trade 1 for 1 or 2 for 1 with other players but never 1 for 2. This limits the number of resources you have available to you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not track cards that are in other player's hands. This makes it so you do not know what another player is likely to do next. Also prevents you from using the robber and monopoly cards to their full potential.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Randomly pick the space to place the robber when you have the chance.  This makes it so you do not always place on your opponents best or most strategic hexes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Randomly choose who to take cards from when you move the robber, when given the choice. Prevents you from selecting a player who you know has cards that you are interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not optimize your initial board placements. See the answer by aramis.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Limit the number of trades with other players or the bank you can do each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-09-16T19:57:24.093" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T19:57:24.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12829" CreationDate="2013-09-16T21:29:21.240" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, this all depends on the judge. As an example of what can happen, I'll tell you about a recent case with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After initial shuffle in game one, two judges came and asked to do a deck check on both me and my opponent. They took our decks away, while we sat there awkwardly talking. Much later, they came back and said that both of our decks were officially &quot;marked&quot; because our sleeves were worn in a way where we could &lt;em&gt;theoretically&lt;/em&gt; tell which card was which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took them a long time to do the deck check because a group of four judges were all trying to figure out if we had done so on purpose. To do that, they carefully looked at &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; cards were worn and if there is a pattern. Turns out, both me and my opponent were just playing with old sleeves. Some of the worn cards were basic lands, some where win conditions, some were just random non-special cards. We were allowed to play out our match, and had to resleeve our decks between matches. No big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That example gets to the heart of what the rules really are: the judge has absolute power in determining what is and is not &quot;marked.&quot; They &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to because if the rules gave a list of the things that were considered cheating, a crafty cheater would just find a new way. But &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; notice that neither me nor my opponent got in any real trouble. The rules care about &lt;em&gt;intent&lt;/em&gt;. If all of your win conditions are upside down, it's unlikely that happened by accident -- you are probably cheating. If one random land is upside down you probably just dropped a card and put it back into your deck wrong. If about 50% are upside down you probably flipped half when shuffling. Only one of those cases is grounds for getting in real trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you asked specifically about foils, there &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; been cases where someone was playing with all-foil lands, and no-foil spells. I don't remember if they got a warning or a game loss, but they were told to swap out the lands with non-foil versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5842" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T21:29:21.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12978" CreationDate="2013-09-16T21:59:15.343" Score="6" ViewCount="344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does this pretty much ensure that every role will be chosen after two or three rounds? (Unless there is a huge surplus of roles to players.) Coins are valuable (in most aspects of the game) after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, is there ever a role so lacking in value that an inducement of two to three coins would not be enough to entice players to take it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2021-01-05T20:00:41.840" Title="In Puerto Rico, what is the significance of coins being put each round on people that are not chosen?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12977" CreationDate="2013-09-16T22:30:36.483" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has two purposes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As you say, it ensures that every role gets taken, and that no role goes entirely unloved for too long. There are multiple paths to victory in Puerto Rico, and most of them require some combination of roles to be taken: a shipping strategy requires Settler/Mayor to set up and Craftsman/Captain to execute, a building strategy requires Builder plus Craftsman/Trader (or some other income methods), etc. Putting coins on unloved roles means that if 3 players go for one strategy and one player goes for a different one, that one player's favorite roles (or unloved-but-required supporting roles) will still be chosen, even by people not following that player's strategy. It pushes all of the players at the table to make the game friendly to all strategies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some roles are weaker than others, and putting money on the roles makes them more tempting. Craftsman is a classic &quot;weak&quot; role, because the person who takes it will usually have &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; choice in the next shipping/trading phase. (Unless they're clever with the end of the round and the movement of the Governor role.) This is mostly just fine-tuning the power of the various role cards: if some cards are weaker than others, then add a little cash so they're not quite so weak.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T22:30:36.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="12980" CreationDate="2013-09-16T23:07:22.583" Score="2" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;At what point do you need to decide which additional actions to choose?  To make this question explicit, suppose I play the Village (+1 card; +2 actions).  Do I need to decide which two actions I will play immediately, or do I decide on the second action after choosing and completing the first action?  For example, if I play the Smithy (+3 cards) as my first additional action, can my second action be an action I just picked up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5843" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T17:21:10.623" Title="When are additional Dominion actions chosen?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-09-23T09:01:03.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12979" CreationDate="2013-09-16T23:37:18.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply? Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine you have a little &quot;action bank&quot;. At the start of your turn, it contains &quot;1 Action&quot; which you can spend to play an Action card. If you play a terminal card (like Smithy) then you're down to &quot;0 Actions&quot; and you're done. If you play a non-terminal like Market, after it uses up the action in the bank, it gives +1 Action - so it repays itself, and you can play another Action card. If you play a village/splitter that says &quot;+2 Actions&quot;, you get to put both those actions in the bank. So you can then use one to play a Smithy, draw three cards, then use the second action to play any Action card in your hand, including one drawn with the Smithy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;+1 Buy&quot; and &quot;+1 Coin&quot; work in the same way, except that you can't use either of them until your Buy phase (i.e. once you're done playing all your Action cards), with a slight exception with Black Market. &quot;+1/2/3 Cards&quot; is the only one that's different, in that its effect resolves instantly without choice - when you play a card that tells you to draw cards, you draw them immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-09-16T23:37:18.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10929" CreationDate="2013-09-17T01:49:11.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A defender should lead the second highest card in a suit for the same reason s/he would as declarer: into a tenace in partner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner has opened with an honor. If that honor is the queen, then it doesn't make a difference. But suppose partner has the AT9x to start. Then you want to lead the jack into the tenace, so that if the queen doesn't cover, you can lead a second card into the tenace for a finesse of the queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example would be better if there were only one card in the suit in dummy, and partner, you, and declarer all had four. Then it be imperative to lead the jack, keeping the lead (unless the queen covers), so you have a second lead into the tenace, making all four tricks in the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The move wouldn't work with your KT42 against declarer's presumed QJx. But it would work if the J were in the dummy and the K dropped it on the first turn, making your T the third highest card (after the A and Q).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T01:49:11.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12977" CreationDate="2013-09-17T03:30:19.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a game mechanic to make the value of the role placards change over the course of the game. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/file/download/8fz7a595d7/Puerto_Rico_Anniversary_Edition_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anniversary Edition rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Role placards with more doubloons will be more &lt;strong&gt;attractive&lt;/strong&gt; to the players as they get the doubloons in addition to the privilege of the placard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T03:30:19.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13008" CreationDate="2013-09-17T12:49:38.203" Score="6" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have reached a point in my cube building process where the decisions about what cards to include are getting tough. It's no longer as simple as &quot;Card A is better than card B. Include card A.&quot;. Now I need to think about what archetypes to support and a lot of other stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where is a good place to get my cube critiqued by other cube enthusiasts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T09:07:47.180" Title="Where can I get my mtg-cube critiqued?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-17T12:57:32.900" Score="1" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;What archetypes are most common/popular to include in powered cubes (preferably size 540)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T12:42:07.880" Title="Archetypes in powered mtg-cube" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-cube|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12979" CreationDate="2013-09-17T17:21:10.623" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on ConMan's answer, here is the direct text of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;+X Action(s)&quot; – the player may play X number of additional Actions this turn. +X Action(s) adds to the number of Actions that can be played in the Action phase. &lt;strong&gt;It does not mean play another Action immediately. The instructions on the current Action card must be completed before playing any additional Actions.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the bolded part indicates, +Actions are treated like a resource pool. You complete the card giving you +Actions, then you may play an additional action, completely resolving that card. You may continue playing actions until you run out of available actions in your &quot;action resource pool&quot; (which is not an official Dominion term, but is useful for explaining the mechanic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in your case, you would resolve Village, which draws you one card and adds two actions to your &quot;action pool.&quot; Then, since you have actions remaining, you can choose to play another action card from your hand, completely resolving it. This would be the Smithy in your example, so you would draw 3 cards. Then, you still have an action remaining in your &quot;action pool,&quot; so you may choose another card from your hand. At this point, your hand includes the 3 cards that you drew with Smithy, so any of those cards are fair game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="681" LastActivityDate="2013-09-17T17:21:10.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12961" CreationDate="2013-09-17T23:17:39.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no step between &quot;choose a card from the discards&quot; and &quot;put the card into play&quot;: the various play-from-discard abilities are a single-step action. The rules text uses the phrase &quot;resolution order,&quot; so you should fully resolve each player's play-from-discard ability before moving onto the next player with a play-from-discard ability. &lt;strong&gt;Alice chooses a discarded card and puts it into play before Bob even looks at the discards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, 7 Wonders doesn't break things into discrete steps, so there's no sense in inventing extra steps for this particular case. I agree that there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a very small advantage for Bob here (slightly bigger if Alice is a neighbor), but that's roughly balanced by Alice getting first pick of the discards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T00:38:12.787" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T00:38:12.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12913" CreationDate="2013-09-18T00:38:09.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to the &quot;why is this card so expensive,&quot; because of the draft structure at the time and the small size of the &lt;strong&gt;Morningtide&lt;/strong&gt; expansion, fewer packs were opened than, say, in a large set that was drafted more consistently. (The format went from LOR-LOR-LOR to LOR-LOR-MOR and then to SHM-SHM-SHM.) This scarcity helped to raise the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T00:38:09.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12961" CreationDate="2013-09-18T05:27:46.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cards are taken secretly from the discard, and then put into play simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/WONDERPACK_RULES_US.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wonder Pack rules&lt;/a&gt; should be taken literally. When they use the term, &amp;quot;resolution order&amp;quot; they are specifically speaking of what order to resolve the actions in the previous conditional: (I.e. multiple players &lt;strong&gt;taking&lt;/strong&gt; cards from the discard pile.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple players take cards from the discard pile during a given turn, the resolution order is the following: Halikarnassos, The Great Wall, Manneken Pis, Salomon and finally, Courtesan’s Guild&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are always played simultaneously, so some way to resolve conflicts between multiple players taking conflicting actions is necessary. Take for example the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;original rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 5, 8):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overview of an Age&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] Each Age is made up of 6 game turns. During each turn the players &lt;strong&gt;put into play a single card, simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Mausoleum of Halicarnassus&lt;/strong&gt; - the player can look through all of the cards discarded since the beginning of the game (those discarded for coins as well as those discarded at the end of an age), pick one, and build it for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification :&lt;/strong&gt; this special ability takes place at the end of the turn in which this stage is built. If players discard cards this turn (as in the case of the 6th turn of an age), the player can also choose from among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same rules text is in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_LEADERS_RULES_EN_COLOR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leaders Expansion&lt;/a&gt; (page 4, 7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recruitment Phase&lt;/strong&gt; - During this phase, each player will play one of their Leader cards. The cards are chosen secretly by each player, &lt;strong&gt;then revealed simultaneously to be played.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solomon&lt;/strong&gt; - Once Solomon enters play, the player can choose an Age card from the discard pile and put it in play for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Leaders rules also only notes that Halicarnassus &lt;strong&gt;chooses&lt;/strong&gt; its card before Solomon, not that it plays the card before Solomon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leader: Solomon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: What happens if Solomon enters play in the same turn in which Halicarnassus builds a Wonder stage?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Halicarnassus chooses its card from the discard pile before Solomon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T05:38:53.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7142" CreationDate="2013-09-18T11:55:41.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Balanced platoon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases a solid 1-2-2 platoon will do the trick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 jumbo to act as the shield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 m4a1 76 mm for fire power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 vanilla m4a1 or m4a3s, if you think you will benefit from the protected ammo stowage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of platoon will be a great advancing platoon for a reasonable cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spearhead platoon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 M4A3 76s or M4A3E8s&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 m4a3 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 m4a3 105mm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great platoon to spearhead attacks. All tanks use the &lt;em&gt;Detroit's Finest&lt;/em&gt; special rule, giving you a slight edge when it comes to flanking and taking objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tortoise platoon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 jumbo to act as the shield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 m4a3e8; utilize the smooth ride special rule by not moving more than 15cm on any given turn, keeping RoF up while denying penalties.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lastly, you can fill it with either m4a1 or m4a3s.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5852" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-09-18T18:07:06.350" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T18:07:06.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12983" CreationDate="2013-09-18T15:40:51.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best place that I know of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/mtgcube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.reddit.com/r/mtgcube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other options include tweeting the link to your cube with the hash tag #mtgcube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quite often if you do one or both of those, people will draft your cube using cubetutor, which will then give you drafting statistics about what cards are taken highest, and you'll usually get direct feedback from the person themselves as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5842" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T15:40:51.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12913" CreationDate="2013-09-18T16:00:43.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you have a magic deck. In that deck you want to fit as many good spells as possible that takes you closer to winning but you also need enough mana sources to be able to cast those spells. Common numbers would be 37 spells, 23 lands. What Mutavault does is that some of your lands now also, apart from giving you mana, takes you closer to winning the game. So if you add 3 of those, you're suddenly up to 40 cards that help you win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mutavault does this at the reasonable cost of only being able to produce colorless mana. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Utility lands often rise in price because they can be included in so many different decks. Mutavault is colorless which makes it even easier to include. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T16:00:43.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12962" CreationDate="2013-09-18T20:07:06.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jefromi's answer is absolutely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to clarify a small point: tapping your lands does not use the stack at all. This is important for spells with Split Second. If tapping lands used the stack, then you wouldn't be able to tap your lands once a Split Second spell was on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5842" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T20:07:06.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13006" CreationDate="2013-09-18T21:21:13.590" Score="4" ViewCount="22217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think these is how the cards can be used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep cards can be played only during your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard cards are to be played immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Permanent power ups can be played only during your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temporary power ups can be played at any time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All cards/power ups can be played in the turn you bought/acquired&#xA;them (unless stated otherwise).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2399" LastEditorUserId="2399" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T05:44:52.730" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T13:54:22.220" Title="When can cards/power ups be played in King of Tokyo (and Power Up! expansion)?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2013-09-18T21:33:18.767" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Japan, I take a hybrid approach. I consolidate the Navy around Japan adding two transports. I send 8 infantry at a time with the 5 fighters and bomber to aid in devastating attack. My first goal (2nd round) is &quot;Fortress Mongolia&quot;. This position allows attack to nearly anywhere in Asia. Its the Karelia of east asia. Works better to take sinkiang and India than going through China.  Its also great defensively because the allies have to pay for the privilidge to attack it. The Russians are too broke to pay the nuetrality violation and I beg the US to pay the fine to attack my 8+ infantry and 5 fighters. About the 4th round, I buy an additional bomber and use both to industrial bomb russia. Same for germany 4th round. At that point russia doesn't have the IPCs to defend with against the japanese infantry/ fighter push. &#xA;If Japan uses this plan, Germany destroys the allied Atlantic fleet, dedicating all of the luftwaffe for Atlantic defense,  takes egypt, and buys med fleet 1st round. 2nd and third round it romps Africa abroad while in Europe It buys only troops and retreats, goading russia to go after it. By third round, germany has also taken Brazil (out of reach of allied bombers) and dominates the atlantic. 4th round transfers 2 fighters to it. The key for Germany is steal the southern IPCs from the allies, sink anything they put in the Atlantic, and hold off the Russians til Japan gets there. Its sort of the allied plan against germany, but in reverse. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5855" LastActivityDate="2013-09-18T21:33:18.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6371" CreationDate="2013-09-18T23:07:57.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regrading whether the factory should cost eight coins and the university seven, according to the wiki &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Rico_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page&lt;/a&gt; &quot;The designer Andreas Seyfarth has said that he would make this change if he were creating the game today.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on other things I've read, I agree with ths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-19T13:01:53.253" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T13:01:53.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13001" CreationDate="2013-09-18T23:17:23.957" Score="12" ViewCount="880" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the disadvantages of corn is that it doesn't &quot;trade&quot; (sell) for as much money as other crops. This point became clear in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1059/is-there-a-viable-corn-only-strategy-for-puerto-rico?rq=1&quot;&gt;question:&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, corn is cheaper to produce than other crops, and you don't need to build a production facility for it. And corn can be shipped for as many victory points as other crops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make sense to go for higher yielding cash crops in the beginning, use the money to buy the buildings you need (or want), and then shift to producing corn (for the victory points) about mid-game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T05:12:29.563" Title="In Puerto Rico, does it make sense to shift to a corn-based strategy mid-game?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="12999" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13000" CreationDate="2013-09-18T23:37:19.060" Score="2" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you enter into a diplomatic agreement can you move your ships freely through each others territories without initiating combat? And can two allies move into combat against an opponent and have their ships team up against their adversary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T00:00:31.360" Title="Eclipse diplomacy" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12999" CreationDate="2013-09-19T00:00:31.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;To both questions, the answer is No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/732184/eclipse-rules-in-pdf-format&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your Diplomatic relations &#xA;  stay in effect until the end of the game, unless you attack &#xA;  one of the players you have Diplomatic relations with, or &#xA;  they attack you. &lt;strong&gt;Moving your Ships to a hex where the other player has a disc or a Ship is also considered an attack.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Both players then return the Ambassador Tiles and cubes &#xA;  to the owner. The cube goes back to a Population Track, &#xA;  chosen freely by the owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T00:00:31.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12998" CreationDate="2013-09-19T00:28:50.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it makes huge amounts of sense to do such things. It can even make a lot of sense to seek after both corn and cash crops from the beginning of the game. You only need a single Coffee or Tobacco plantation for trading, so going for corn early, middle, and late (but being sure to snag a single cash crop early) is an extremely viable solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you need a production building (and maybe an office, and a small market, and a large market...) to take largest advantage from trading, but you only need &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; cash-crop plantation to match it. Go ahead and grab Corn for everything else. In the last game of Puerto Rico I played, that's exactly how the winner earned his victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T00:28:50.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12998" CreationDate="2013-09-19T05:12:29.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It makes sense to take Corn at every point during the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you point out, Corn requires fewer colonists to manufacture and is worth the same amount of VP tokens when shipped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It actually doesn't make sense to go for the higher yielding cash crops in the beginning of the game, until you have one or two other crops to protect it. Imagine only having your cash crop, Coffee or Tabacco. If you choose Craftsman, many if not most of the other players are likely to choose Captain and force you to ship your cash crop, since you will benefit the most from a Trader phase. Taking an early Corn helps protect your cash crop from being shipped during the Captain phase, and usually it will require two other crops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mid-game, you should still be focused on setting up your economic engine. A Corn (or any other good) is helpful in emptying the Trading House so that you can still trade in your cash crop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late-Game, every Corn you can ship either before your opponents on a boat that will not empty (if you have Warehouse for storage), or on a boat that will fill before your opponents can place Corn is VPs gained on your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T05:12:29.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9446" CreationDate="2013-09-19T06:10:17.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The player controlling the Free City during the 6th turn plays the last remaining card in the Free City's draw pile.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7-wonders rules&lt;/a&gt; define each Wonder boards special abilities. (page 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Hanging Gardens of Babylon&lt;/strong&gt; the second stage gives the player the option of playing their seventh Age card instead of discarding it. This card can be played by paying its costs, discarded to earn 3 coins or used in the building of the third phase of the Wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification :&lt;/strong&gt; during the &lt;strong&gt;sixth turn&lt;/strong&gt;, the player can therefore play both cards they have in hand. If the second stage of the Wonder is not built, the Babylon player can then build it on their sixth turn and then play the seventh card instead of discarding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a 7th turn in an Age, but it helps to think of it as an extra turn, since the resources used to build the 6th card as well as the 6th card itself are available to build the 7th and last card. This 7th card is normally the card that you would discard during the 6th turn of an Age, so that is the card that the player controlling the Free City can play to construct a structure, build their wonder, or if both if those are impossible to discard for 3 coins. (Page 7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification :&lt;/strong&gt; The Free City cannot discard a card to get 3 coins unless it cannot play a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note :&lt;/strong&gt; during the sixth turn of the age, there is only one card remaining in the Free city’s draw pile. This last card is discarded at the same time as the seventh and last card of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T06:10:17.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12832" CreationDate="2013-09-19T08:59:38.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't care that much about actual randomness, but you want to be sure your opponent has no way to know which card is which, you can just make sure you don't know either. That way, all mind tricks or tells won't work anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would do is shuffle my hand before presenting it to my opponent. Since I don't know in which order the card are after shuffling, there is no information I can give to the opponent about it, whether willingly or not. As a bonus, since the opponent saw you shuffle, he also knows there's no point in trying to think about which card to pick or read your mind or possible clues or trickeries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also going quite fast since nobody has to think about anything, which means  the time you lost shuffling is not a problem any longer; chances are the whole process will be faster than using a dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1698" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T08:59:38.627" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12995" CreationDate="2013-09-19T10:46:26.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Keep Cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Come into effect as soon as you buy them and remain in play until you die, unless otherwise stated or some other card removes it (e.g. you sell it using &lt;em&gt;Metamorph&lt;/em&gt;, someone buys it off you with &lt;em&gt;Parasitic Tentacles&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you can use the extra abilities given to you by a card is specific to the card and is generally stated on it. Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Eater of the Dead&lt;/em&gt; power is usable at any time, so if a player dies when it's not your turn you still gain points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Parasitic Tentacles&lt;/em&gt; power can only be used during the phase of your turn where you buy cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Discard Cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard cards are played immediately upon buying and the effects are resolved immediately. So for example if you wanted to buy 2 discard cards on your turn you would buy the first card and resolve it, then buy the second card and resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Buying Cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you can only buy cards on your turn, however &lt;em&gt;Opportunist&lt;/em&gt; allows you to buy cards when it's not your turn. If you use &lt;em&gt;Opportunist&lt;/em&gt; to buy a card then that card has immediate effect, you &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; wait until your turn to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T10:46:26.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12995" CreationDate="2013-09-19T13:52:31.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jinx.com/content/games/King_of_Tokyo.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;King of Tokyo rules&lt;/a&gt; only define two types of cards, Keep and Discard. (Page 2). There is no such thing as Temporary or Permanent cards. Many cards seem to represent &lt;strong&gt;power ups&lt;/strong&gt; of the Monsters, but this isn't a game term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card Description&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to play&lt;/strong&gt; the card is indicated above the description of the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KEEP: Monsters keep these cards for the remainder of the game (sometimes the card will indicate it is discarded under certain circumstances.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DISCARD: Monsters immediately resolve these then discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the &lt;strong&gt;Card Description&lt;/strong&gt; indicates, the cards themselves will indicate when they can be played, with the exception of &lt;strong&gt;DISCARD&lt;/strong&gt; cards that are played immediately after being purchased. Unless a card notes otherwise, you may play it and gain its effects immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Permanent/Temporary Evolution cards can be played at any time, barring a timing restriction printed on the card. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/84142/english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;expansion rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evolutions&lt;/strong&gt; - Monsters keep their evolutions secret &lt;strong&gt;until they want to play them – which can be at any time.&lt;/strong&gt; There are two kind of Evolutions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Temporary Evolution:&lt;/strong&gt; They are discarded after being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Permanent Evolution:&lt;/strong&gt; They stay in play like a Keep card from the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T13:54:22.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12911" CreationDate="2013-09-19T20:38:13.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having now looked over two &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/games.html?id=391&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;different&lt;/a&gt; English &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/66080/pantheon-english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;translations&lt;/a&gt;, I'm better able to figure out some of the ambiguous wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus Tiles have the same coloring system as gods: gold backgrounds mean &quot;play immediately, then discard,&quot; and blue backgrounds mean &quot;keep.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All bonus tiles are revealed immediately after the first Prepare-Civilization phase, and all gold tiles are immediately executed and discarded.&lt;/strong&gt; (If you got the God bonus tile, and it's one of those gods that give you a bonus every turn, you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; get that bonus this turn; using that tile happens &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the phase in civilization-preparation where you'd get the bonus in the first turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The &quot;Movement&quot; Bonus Tile is kept permanently, and gives +1 Move on every movement action.&lt;/strong&gt; (You're not required to use it each Movement action, though.) This can add up to a quite decent bonus over the course of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the single-most-useless tile is the one that upgrades a sacrifice tile, because you're required to use it immediately, and you can only use it to buy a Level 1 tile. This makes it worth one-gold-plus-the-buy-action-to-acquire-it, which isn't particularly useful because you're allowed to do &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; things during a normal buy action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-09-19T20:38:13.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12983" CreationDate="2013-09-20T09:07:47.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the MTG Salvation forum (&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/forumdisplay.php?f=349&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/forumdisplay.php?f=349&lt;/a&gt;) there are several categories regarding cubes. You can post your cube list (1000+ there already) there, but also discuss cards and archetypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T09:07:47.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12832" CreationDate="2013-09-20T11:45:06.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In situations where a die roll is impossible, a series coinflips can be used. this can be achieved by representing each number as binary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, decide on which of heads or tails to represent 0/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, flip the coin, recording the result, this gives you the &quot;ones&quot; column, or a value of 0 / 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, flip again for the &quot;twos&quot; column, giving you a value of 0 or 2, add this to the previous (giving 0, 1, 2 or 3 respectively)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, flip again for the &quot;fours&quot; column, giving you a value of 0 or 4. Add this to the previous (giving 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7). This should be enough for 90% of situations. It is zero indexed, so either add one to the final result, or label your cards from 0 to x. As with any other solution that doesn't perfectly fit the cards present, repeat if you hit a number in excess of the choice of cards. If you have less than 4 cards in hand you can skip the last step. If you have more than 8 you can add another flip to cope with up to 16 cards etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no idea of a situation where you would be able to comfortably lay out magic cards but not roll a die, but if you find yourself in this particular magical Christmas land, then this gives you a legitimate way to resolve the decision randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all of this, if you can feasibly use a die, this is the best way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your rights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can and should demand the decision be made based on die rolls, the cards should still be shuffled for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The rules demand that decisions like this be decided in a way that cannot under any circumstances be pre-determined&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that a method where it is possible - even if it relies on an opponent's ineptitude - to be pre-determined. That is quite simply called &lt;strong&gt;an attempt to cheat&lt;/strong&gt;, so don't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T12:13:52.423" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T12:13:52.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12630" CreationDate="2013-09-20T13:06:12.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most casinos, $25 is the smallest &lt;strong&gt;tournament&lt;/strong&gt; chip.  However, it may not remain so.  Periodically chips are &quot;raced off&quot; or &quot;colored up&quot;.  How it is done is another topic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, lets use something similar to your example:  4 players, one with 10 chips (call him A), the rest with 1000, blinds are 50/100.  None of the three players raises preflop, so 4 see the floop.  There is a total of 340 in the pot.  40 in the main, which A is able to win, 300 in the side, which A is not able to win.  Flop comes.  One of the players with chip bets, one folds, the other calls.  There is now 40 in the main, 500 in the side.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say the board is AAAAK.  All players have 4 aces with King kicker.  They all tie.  The two players with chips split the side of 500, they get 250 each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main pot is interesting as there is 40 in there and three players to split.  Each player gets 10 chips, but there is 10 left over.  Who gets the extra chip?  The player that is first to act in the hand (like the one who was in the small blind). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5497" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T13:06:12.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12965" CreationDate="2013-09-20T14:34:35.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are LOTS of suit preference (abbrev: SP) situations, as well as many agreements as to when SP applies. I'll see if I can cover at least a few of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic one is as you have described. On opening lead, you lead an obvious stiff in a side suit against a trump contract. (Of course, there is little reason to do this if you have a void in trumps.) Partner, who happens to win the trick, returns a card, expecting you to ruff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do ruff that card, which suit do you return? Look at it like this, if you ruffed, you don't have any more of that suit, and trumps seem like a bad idea. After all, you are hoping to get partner in for a second ruff! So essentially there are other two suits of potential interest as an entry. Ranking them in the standard order from low(clubs) to high(spades), partner can indicate their re-entry suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is, partner will give you a low card to ruff with an entry in the low side suit, and a high card for you to ruff with a high side suit entry. If partner has NO entry at all, then they should (if possible) return an intermediate card, suggesting no preference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, suit preference applies for you too! In fact, both sides of the partnership will often be giving suit preference signals. Let us see how this would all work on an example hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponents are in a 4S contract, played by that hapless fellow in the South seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the bidding went: 1♦ - 1♠ - 2♠ - 4♠, with you never having an opportunity to show your diamond length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     Declarer&#xA;     AKT9&#xA;     A73&#xA;     T6&#xA;     QJ53&#xA;&#xA;You        Partner&#xA;73         Q52&#xA;KJ8        642&#xA;A98432     J&#xA;A7         T98642&#xA;&#xA;     Declarer&#xA;      J864&#xA;      QT95&#xA;      KQ75&#xA;      K&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have few good good looking leads here, so with a prayer in mind, you pick the diamond ace for your lead, partner playing the jack. (Yes, I know that aces are terrible leads, but that is not the point of this hand, and your other leads are equally bad). Anyway, if declarer has diamond length from the bidding, the chances are very good that your partner is short in that suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner had a stiff diamond jack, she will be able to ruff the next trick, so what return are you looking for? A club is your quick entry, so at trick two, you lead the deuce of diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner ruffs of course. Your diamond deuce is a clear signal, asking for a club return. At the same time, partner is looking for a third diamond lead. That card gives partner a second ruff, promoting the queen of trumps back into a winner. See that partner had a natural trump trick, but the ruff would allow declarer to draw trumps with the ace and king. So a third round of diamonds will be a trump promotion for partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does partner indicate a suggestion for you to lead a third diamond? When partner returns the indicated club card, she will lead the DEUCE. The low return tells partner to lead the LOW suit when they are in at trick 3, so diamonds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have taken the first 3 tricks in a flurry now. At trick 4, when you lead a card for partner to ruff, what diamond do you play? You don't want to see a club return. Instead you would prefer a heart, hoping to set up a heart trick. The way to ask for hearts is to play the 9 of diamonds on that third round of diamonds. The high card asks for the high suit. While declarer gets two pitches on the club winners, there is still a heart to lose, so you set 4S two tricks. This is a top score at match-points of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there were several SP plays in the defense of this one hand, made by both opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The classic SP situation discussed so far is not the only case where they can apply. Visualize a hand where we have bid and raised a suit, but the opponents end up as the declarer. As the opening leader, imagine that your hand is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;J&#xA;K85&#xA;Q9762&#xA;AQT8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As dealer (West), you open the bidding 1♦, only to see the bidding go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1♦ - Dbl - 2♦ - 4♠&#xA;All pass&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So partner has raised your diamonds, but the opponents still found game. It looks like South has bid game on shape, since there are simply not enough points to go around for South to have bid it on power. Your hope is to beat this contract, but when they bid game on shape, all bets may be off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You lead your 4th best diamond, partner winning the king. Dummy comes down with a decent hand, as it has top tricks, but still a basic minimum for a takeout double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     Dummy&#xA;     AKT9&#xA;     AT73&#xA;     43&#xA;     J52&#xA;You&#xA;J&#xA;K85&#xA;Q9762&#xA;AQT8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner then cashes the diamond ace as declarer followed suit with the 8 and 10. You don't expect to see much more in partner's hand, but you really want a club switch through the probable king in declarer's hand. After all, if partner had the AK in diamonds, plus the club king, they might have found a different bid than simply 2♦. So on the second diamond, what card do you play to ask partner to continue with a club? Your choices were {Q,9,7,2}. You and partner both know that a diamond continuation is not right. Partner sees you play the deuce, so your 4th best lead indicates that declarer had only a doubleton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two side suits here, hearts and clubs. If you play a clearly low diamond (the deuce), then this must be SP for clubs. You get your 4 tricks to defeat the contract. It turns out that the hands were like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     Dummy&#xA;     AKT9&#xA;     AT73&#xA;     43&#xA;     J52&#xA;&#xA;You        Partner&#xA;J          5&#xA;K85        9642&#xA;Q9762      AKJ5&#xA;AQT8       9643&#xA;&#xA;     Declarer&#xA;     Q876432&#xA;     QJ&#xA;     T8&#xA;     K7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't get a club switch at trick 3, Declarer can draw trumps, then take the heart finesse to make game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, now suppose the hands were slightly different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     Declarer&#xA;     AKT9&#xA;     AT73&#xA;     432&#xA;     J5&#xA;&#xA;You        Partner&#xA;J43        52&#xA;KJ8        9642&#xA;Q9762      AKJ&#xA;A7         9643&#xA;&#xA;     Declarer&#xA;     Q876&#xA;     Q5&#xA;     T8&#xA;     KQT82&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With South still in a 4♠ contract, after East wins the first two tricks, what should he return? A club, diamond or spade return gives declarer the contract, by allowing her to set up clubs for three heart pitches. Only the heart switch through declarer sets up a heart trick in time to set the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can West ask for a heart switch? Of course. On the second diamond, play the QUEEN. This is a stand up and shout suit preference play, asking for a switch to the higher side suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I might change the hands yet again. (I tried to get the spot cards right on all of these hands.) Again, assume that South is declaring 4♠, although the bidding is surely not the same as it was before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;     Declarer&#xA;     AK94&#xA;     AT63&#xA;     432&#xA;     J5&#xA;&#xA;You        Partner&#xA;QJT        32&#xA;K87        9542&#xA;Q976       AK5&#xA;T87        K643&#xA;&#xA;     Declarer&#xA;     8765&#xA;     QJ&#xA;     JT8&#xA;     AQ92&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 4th best diamond lead, East wins the king, then the ace of diamonds. Clearly, they must cash the third diamond trick, at which point West will have a natural trump trick. But from East's point of view, should he switch to a club, a heart, or continue diamonds? On the last two hands, with very similar looking hands for East, he had to switch to one of the other suits, and NOT continue diamonds to defeat the contract! Declarer has played the same cards each time, the 8 and ten spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this hand, you led the 4th best 6. By continuing with the 7 at trick 2, partner will expect that you had a 4 card suit, so will hopefully continue diamonds. Any other continuation will allow declarer to take the heart finesse for a diamond pitch, so this was necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those were the classic suit preference situations, but there are others. One agreement I have with several partners is that when you lead a card and it is absolutely clear that you don't want to continue that suit, then partner will signal with suit preference. For example, in a trump contract you lead a winner, and dummy has a stiff in the suit. Continuing the suit seems not to be useful, so what side suit do you switch to? Partner should signal with suit preference. Or, perhaps, your lead of a stiff ace discloses a solid unbid side suit in dummy that you have just set up. Again, partner should indicate suit preference for your next lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several suit preference discarding agreements that many pairs use. The most common are Lavinthal discards, and odd/even discards. While I've never been a fan or either agreement, they are commonly employed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lavinthal:&lt;/strong&gt; On your FIRST discard in the hand (and only on your first opportunity to discard) you throw a card in a suit that you are NOT interested in. A high card indicates interest in the higher of the other suits, and a low spot indicates interest in the lower suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Odd/even:&lt;/strong&gt; Again, at your first opportunity to discard, you pick a side suit to play. An odd card indicates that you like the suit. An even card is suit preference, with a low even card suggesting a preference for the lower of the other suits. A high even card is a preference for the higher suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A serious problem with both of the above discarding agreements, is that sometimes you have no spot cards that you can safely throw away that show your true holding. Then what happens is a defender tanks, agonizing about which card they should play, which lie to make. Partner can read what is happening of course, so they will discount your signal, since a card played in tempo will not carry any inference. Of course, it is COMPLETELY illegal to use tempo information from your partner, but there has been many a director called, many a committee formed over just such an occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, there are trump suit preference signals, where the order that you play your spot cards in trumps tells partner about your side suit holdings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, these are dangerous territories to enter into, as a good declarer can also read your signals, often to disastrous effect. Don't make a signal if it will tell partner nothing useful, but give the hand away to declarer. And don't agree to any such agreements if you cannot play your cards in tempo, as that is simply asking for problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user3264" LastEditorDisplayName="user3264" LastEditDate="2013-09-20T22:50:05.077" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T22:50:05.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13014" CreationDate="2013-09-20T16:12:59.393" Score="10" ViewCount="19522" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, whenever I take an action that involves paying for an effect that is any more complicated than tapping lands, I declare that I'm floating mana. For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When I tap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Titania&quot;&gt;Priest of Titania&lt;/a&gt; with 3 other elves on the battlefield (for a total mana cost of 4), than I will typically say &amp;quot;I float 4 mana&amp;quot; before I make any plays and use this mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if I'm using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; to pay for a 1-drop, I declare how I'm floating mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One time, I was accused of cheating because of this habit. I tapped my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; and said &amp;quot;I float 1 to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quirion%20Ranger&quot;&gt;Quirion Ranger&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot;, and I was accused of cheating, because I &amp;quot;didn't have 1 floating after that play&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would seem that the person I was playing against had taken &amp;quot;floating mana&amp;quot; to refer exclusively to mana that was left over &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; paying a mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I been doing it wrong all along? Has my talk about &amp;quot;floating mana&amp;quot; before I pay costs been a miscommunication all this time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this now because I recently came across this passage whilst reading the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;106.4a If a player passes priority (see rule 116) while there is mana in his or her mana pool, that player announces what mana is there. If&#xA;any mana remains in a player’s mana pool after he or she spends mana&#xA;to pay a cost, that player announces what mana is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that talking about my &amp;quot;floating mana&amp;quot; communicates that I'm passing priority?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T02:00:34.470" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T02:00:34.470" Title="What does &quot;float mana&quot; typically mean?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13012" CreationDate="2013-09-20T16:25:38.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how a judge would rule in this case (typically judges only care about things that are confusing, and any opponent paying attention would know what you meant), but yes, you are technically using the terminology wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floating mana is mana that is in your mana pool as you pass priority. It doesn't empty until you end the step or phase. Your opponent has the right to know whether it's conceivable that you could respond to their actions with an instant, and so must be able to reasonably work out how much mana you have available at any given time. For mana put into your pool that you are using immediately it's uncommon to announce verbally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5842" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T16:25:38.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13012" CreationDate="2013-09-20T16:49:29.290" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;mana floating is a slang mtg term and refers to mana left over after you play a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Refers to mana added to a player's mana pool and not used immediately.&#xA;  For example, a player might tap all of his or her lands for mana, then&#xA;  play Armageddon (destroying all land in play), then use the excess&#xA;  &quot;floating&quot; mana to play some other card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Slang#Float&quot;&gt;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Slang#Float&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talking about floating mana does not imply that you are about to pass priority. This is because you can play multiple spells before you pass priority and you would potentially have mana left in your pool between such plays. After casting each spell you need to make it clear how much and what type of mana you still have in your pool, so talking about how much and of what types of mana are still floating seems appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament, as long as your usage is clear and consistent there should be no problems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T16:49:29.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13012" CreationDate="2013-09-20T17:21:58.397" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, &quot;float&quot; generally means &quot;produce mana I'm &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using right now&quot;, for example if you're tapping something that produces four mana and only using two of it on the current spell. So interpreting your statements very literally, you were effectively claiming to have produced more mana than you actually did, which would be cheating. But of course it was entirely obvious what you actually meant, so it seems more likely your opponent was just annoyed at you for using &quot;float&quot; wrong and decided to call you out on it by saying you were cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this is generally a non-issue, since you can just tap permanents and cast spells. You don't necessarily have to announce every mana you produce. If you're just tapping things that produce one mana each it doesn't need much explanation. I don't think anyone would bat an eye if you just tapped your Elves and said &quot;I'll cast Quirion Ranger&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bigger things, it can certainly be helpful to count up as you go, but it's not required and needn't be anything fancy; you can just tap some things, count &quot;1, 2, 3, 4, 5&quot; if you so desire, and then play your Thragtusk. Similarly, noting how much mana your Priest of Titania produces is probably a polite, helpful thing (for both you and your opponent), but you can just say something like &quot;tap this for four&quot;, and possibly count up your elves in the process if you think it's not immediately obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-09-20T17:21:58.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-20T21:39:54.230" Score="-3" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not talking about a situation where, on the last round of the game, you had the most victory points at the end of your turn, but someone playing after you passed you by, based on the victory points following his or her turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have the most victory points, but aren't close to ending the game by using the captain or mayor. It look like one of your opponents is building, and more to the point, can fill the 12th city square with a building in one or two turns, whenever ready. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to &quot;head off&quot; this person from winning by ending the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, should you try to keep piling up more victory points so that this opponent can't earn enough with the last building to have more than you? Or should to try to find a way to end the game as soon as possible so that no one catches up? And should the builder refrain from filling the city block if s/he has fewer victory points than you and can't earn enough to catch up on that turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T20:36:41.017" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T20:36:41.017" Title="In Puerto Rico, how do you avoid &quot;losing a game after having the most victory points?&quot;" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-10-17T17:18:13.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2013-09-21T03:23:06.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not for me. At least not in the way that I think you mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me it depends entirely upon the numbers that get rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played games where I only have 2 cities and a settlement when I win. Having said this, I've been playing a lot with the same small group and it's possible that their playing styles haven't changed since we started so I've found it easy to play against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the layout and the resources you have available (in your hand, the ones that other players are willing to trade with you, and those that you can get with the development cards at your disposal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5861" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T03:23:06.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13016" CreationDate="2013-09-21T20:08:55.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such thing as &quot;enough victory points to win.&quot;  Nor does it matter who initiates the play that triggers the end of the game.  The only issue is, when the game ends, who has the most victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three ways to trigger the end of the game.  If you are, in fact, in the lead, then your strategy should turn towards driving the game to its end quickly, in a way that prevents your opponents from scoring more points than you do.  Whether that involves &quot;more building&quot;, &quot;more mayoring&quot;, or &quot;more shipping&quot; depends on your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T20:08:55.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-21T21:00:53.353" Score="5" ViewCount="3442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hypothetical situation: &#xA;Player A has one creature and player B has also one creature. Now the player A casts a black spell to destroy the creature  and targeting player's B creature. If creature B gets protections from black does the player A need to target the only possible target left in the game and that is his creature? What if the creature B would be returned to hand instead? Is it the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5809" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T00:19:32.887" Title="Does new target need to be chosen after the original has become invalid?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-08-10T12:30:54.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-21T21:09:35.437" Score="4" ViewCount="1285" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackwood_convention#Roman_Key_Card_Blackwood_.28RKCB.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wikipedia on RKCB&lt;/a&gt;, after an 03 or 14 response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...the 4NT bidder may ask about [the queen] using the cheapest bid other than five of the trump suit. The code for replies to that &quot;queen ask&quot; vary; a common rule is that the cheapest bid in the trump suit denies the queen or extra length and any other call shows it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes though, a call of 5NT is only available to show the queen&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Example: 1S - 4NT - 4D - 4H --&gt; 5NT - shows the queen).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now assume I find out we together have all 5 keycards and the queen, then how do I ask for the kings? Is there a standard simple non-nonsense way that most casual/random partnerships use?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(5NT that I'd use to ask for kings is wasted ...).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd assume that would be now bidding 6C (and responses to it 6D - 0 kings, 6H - 1 king, 6S - 2 kings, 6NT - 3 kings). Right?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(P.S. I'm looking for most simple straight-forward non-nonsense common way here...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, how do I ask for kings in RKCB (as opposed to regular Blackwood)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Since 5NT is now occupied by queen ask)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T07:04:01.720" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T07:04:01.720" Title="Simplest form of RKCB - asking for kings after asking for queen" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13019" CreationDate="2013-09-21T21:23:01.267" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am no Magic expert, but I think the answer is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target is chosen and needs to be valid when the card is played. Then the stack system kicks in, so the state of the game can change. When the card is resolved, you check whether the target is still valid. If it is, the effect happens, if it isn’t, the effect does not happen. In fact, you are not allowed to choose a new target then, even if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Target&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you see the word “target” on a spell or ability, you have to choose one or more things for the spell or ability to affect. You’ll be able to choose only certain kinds of things, such as “target enchantment” or “target creature or player.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You choose the targets for a&#xA;  spell when you cast it, and you choose targets for an activated ability when you activate it. If you can’t meet the targeting requirements, you can’t cast the spell or activate the activated ability. Once you choose targets, &lt;strong&gt;you can’t change your mind later.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the spell or ability resolves, it checks the targets to make sure they’re still legal (they’re still there, and they match the requirements stated by the spell or ability). If a target isn’t legal, the spell or ability can’t affect it. &lt;strong&gt;If none of the targets are legal, the spell or ability is countered and does nothing at all.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5784" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-09-22T00:19:32.887" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T00:19:32.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13019" CreationDate="2013-09-21T21:43:08.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't get to choose new targets, and the spell will likely be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose targets as part of casting a spell or activating an ability, before it's actually put on the stack. (The full list of steps for casting spells and activating abilities is rule 601; the short summary in most cases is that you announce the spell, pick targets, pay the cost, and place it on the stack.) Once targets are chosen, they stay chosen, unless you have a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Redirect&quot;&gt;Redirect&lt;/a&gt; that explicitly changes them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a spell or ability tries to &lt;em&gt;resolve&lt;/em&gt;, if all its targets are no longer legal, the spell is countered. Simple as that, no new targets. The targets could become illegal if they've changed zones (like a creature going to the graveyard or being exiled), if they were granted protection from the spell's color, if they gained hexproof, or perhaps no longer meet some restriction the spell has for its targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the spell has &lt;em&gt;multiple&lt;/em&gt; targets and at least one is still legal, the spell still resolves, doing as much as it can. For example, if it said &amp;quot;destroy two target creatures&amp;quot; and one is still a legal target, that one would be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the relevant rule, with added emphasis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &amp;quot;target,&amp;quot; are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability's effect for which it is an illegal target can't perform any actions on that target, make another object or player perform any actions on that target, or make that target perform any actions. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feast%20of%20Blood&quot;&gt;Feast of Blood&lt;/a&gt; targets a creature that gains protection from black, Feast of Blood will be countered as it would resolve for having only illegal targets. You will not gain any life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if just one of the creatures targeted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hex&quot;&gt;Hex&lt;/a&gt; gains protection from black, the other five will still be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T23:50:52.393" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T23:50:52.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13020" CreationDate="2013-09-21T22:03:19.210" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should use specific king asks instead of count asks. In this auction, opener's 5NT denies any side suit kings; Eddie Kantar in &lt;em&gt;Roman Keycard Blackwood&lt;/em&gt; suggests that it show a side queen, singleton, or doubleton, with a jump to 6S denying even that much. Kantar then suggests that a cue bid by responder is a grand slam try, looking for a third-round control in the suit bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1S-4NT-5D-5H-6C would then show the spade queen and the club King.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1S-4NT-5D-5NT asks for a specific King, promising all key cards; opener bids their cheapest K.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this requires some discussion with partner, but not much more than &quot;Q ask with specific Kings, 5NT specific K ask&quot;; third-round asks and distinguishing 5NT/6S responses to the Q ask should not be used outside an established partnership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-09-21T22:58:13.140" LastActivityDate="2013-09-21T22:58:13.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9222" CreationDate="2013-09-21T22:36:38.000" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the beginning, you need money to invest, so the emphasis is on trading, which generates money. Here, you would want to use the trader and craftsman, all other things being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later in the game, as it gets closer to the endgame, you are after victory points, so unless you are a builder, the emphasis is on shipping, which generates victory points. Here, the captain is your friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other considerations. All goods earn an equal number of victory points when shipped, but some goods are more lucrative than others when traded. In descending order, they are coffee, tobacco, sugar, indigo, and corn. &quot;Comparative advantage&quot; dictates that you want to ship corn more, and trade more coffee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-22T01:41:09.280" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T01:41:09.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2013-09-22T03:47:14.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the first few rounds are focused on expanding to a new settlement or two. You start the game with two free roads, but to build a new settlement you need to be a minimum of a hex vertices away. If don't expand your road and build a settlement, these free roads are wasted. It isn't unusual to build roads towards the Harbors so you have favorable trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to win the game by not expanding at all though, although this is rare. With good access to Rock, Grain, and Wool you can buy Development cards and build Cities. There are 5 yellow Victory Point cards and 2 bonus points for the Largest army. Those combined with your starting two Settlements, one of which needs to be upgraded to a City is sufficient to win the game. The reverse is not true, since you can only receive 5 Settlements and a bonus 2 for the Longest Road, you would be 3 points short of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T03:47:14.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2013-09-22T04:05:52.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are essentially two questions here. I will offer some short answers here, which don't go into too much detail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is it possible to be &quot;too good&quot; at the building phase of the game, to the detriment of the development phase of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Not really. Expanding early gets you better settlements, more resources (via those settlements) and diversifies your numbers. Your opportunities to build cities are not lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is it possible to be so focused on development that you fall critically behind in building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes. Good expansion settlements will be taken early. If you really over commit, you may end up with no expansion positions and be reduced to one very narrow win condition (2 cities + largest army + all victory point development cards). You may miss out on opportunities to get resources you need and diversify your numbers. You can also be crippled pretty seriously by the robber with this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer to both of these questions is &quot;It depends&quot;, but I can't really go into it without writing a book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T04:05:52.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13033" CreationDate="2013-09-22T12:02:57.193" Score="1" ViewCount="2575" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for some nonstandard board games that don't take more than two hours to complete and don't take less than thirty minutes. By nonstandard I mean other than monopoly, risk and cluedo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been doing a lot of research on the internet the past two days and I've narrowed it down to four games which I think might fit the bill - Dominion, Agricola, Puerto Rico and Settlers of Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary idea is for me and my best friend to play this with our girlfriends, so the game shouldn't be too aggressive, but I also have to keep in mind that my friend is a huge Total War fan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I have almost 0 experience with real board games, and I'm pretty sure the other three have absolutely no experience, but all four of us are very enthusiastic about starting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I feel Agricola might be the best for us, but I'm currently collecting opinions from all around, and I would like to hear the pros and cons of these four games (as well as any other you think might fit the bill), in regards to our gaming group. Replayability should be the highest concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T11:30:10.923" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T11:30:10.923" Title="Best game for two couples, median age 20?" Tags="|dominion|catan|recommendations|agricola|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2013-09-23T11:07:04.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4325" CreationDate="2013-09-22T15:09:34.567" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/11055232&quot;&gt;more recent BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; concerning the &lt;em&gt;2nd edition&lt;/em&gt;, the designer has clarified this rule further (be sure to check Matt's second post there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, in the 2nd edition at least, you &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; use a special event card after an epidemic card has been revealed, until the epidemic process has been fully played out. An exception to this is the &quot;Resilient Population&quot; card, as stated on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5866" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T15:09:34.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-22T16:37:33.027" Score="3" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many board games use square cards that are &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Card_Sleeve_Reference#toc8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;70mm × 70mm&lt;/a&gt;, about 2¾″.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any that use larger square cards?  If so, what's the largest square card that is in use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly interested if there are &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; square cards larger than 70mm. I'm working on a game that needs square cards, and 70mm isn't big enough. The company I'm at wants to use sizes of cards that are already in use, where possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the cards need to be large is because people are putting tokens on top of them when they're in play, not because they have to display much information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="6779" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T17:17:25.863" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T17:17:25.863" Title="Square cards larger than 70mm (2¾″)" Tags="|game-design|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12965" CreationDate="2013-09-22T16:47:51.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I now understand it, a suit preference signal is made by the &lt;strong&gt;giver&lt;/strong&gt; of a desired lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: You are West, defending a major suit trump contract. East has doubled to ask you to lead dummy's first bid suit (a response). So you lead the suit, and dummy comes down KJ93 in the suit. Declarer plays the king from dummy, and East the ace. Then what does he lead back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You, West, are giving East a desired lead (into his tenace), so the suit preference signal should have come from you. Your opening lead should have been low if your entry is in the lower of the two side suits, and high if your entry is in higher of them. East leads a card to your entry so you lead another card into East's remaining QT, and your side takes three tricks in &quot;dummy's&quot; suit. Your entry trick defeats the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example I gave in the question, East is giving, and West is receiving ruffs (the desired leads) so East should give a suit preference signal to signal his entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-09-22T16:47:51.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13028" CreationDate="2013-09-23T01:11:12.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one can really answer your question directly, but I can give an overview of the four different games and their play styles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Agricola&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complex rules and might be a bit heavy for a non-gamer initially.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;About building a farm.  Everyone likes building a farm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Aggressive&quot; play comes from resource denial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most games will take 30 minutes per player to play.  During learning it'll probably take an extra 15+ minutes per player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of setup/packup work is required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plays best with 4 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Highly replayable and highly addictive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dominion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules are relatively simple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Very little aggressive play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player interaction with each other is limited.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game plays as a deck building game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most games will come in under half an hour.  Some cards will extend this but never more than an hour.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plays best with 2 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are a lot of worthless cards/card combos, which limits the combinations of possible games more than it seems initially.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of replayability, but expansions are highly recommended to open up the possibilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules are moderately difficult - easier than Agricola, more difficult than Dominion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play is generally not aggressive, but has a high degree of player interaction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game time is rarely more than 1.5h.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plays best with 4 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moderate amount of setup/packup work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base game is slightly imbalanced, favouring players who start with corn.  This won't have too much of an impact though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Famous mainly as a &quot;gateway game&quot; into Euro-style games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots more luck involved than the other three games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some games will last over 2 hours, depending on luck factors and how decisive each player is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plays best with 3-4 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules are relatively simple to learn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dice use will make new players feel more comfortable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pretty quick setup/packup time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably has the least long term replayability.  Certainly without the expansions this one will not amuse as long as any of the other games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation is actually Puerto Rico, based on what you have described.  I would then recommend Agricola after you have played Puerto Rico a few times and have mastered the mechanics.  I still regularly play both games despite having played them hundreds of times.  I very rarely play settlers and occasionally play dominion.  Dominion's a game I play to fill in half an hour to an hour of time. YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly if you do not wish to buy expansions the best choices are Puerto Rico or Agricola.  Settlers becomes a lot more fun with the Seafarers expansion and Dominion really opens up as soon as you get at least one expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T01:11:12.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2013-09-23T01:52:22.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, &lt;strong&gt;the most important consideration is the numbers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, a good principle for strong settlers play is to &lt;strong&gt;favour development over expansion&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that Settlers, like Dominion, favours spiky resource acquisition.  Soldiers and thieves punish players for the slow accumulation of resources over time.  It's much better to have a &quot;jackpot&quot; of four to five resources all flowing in at once than it is to have one or two resources come in each turn.  Better to get 4-5 resources in one roll, burn them on your turn than be a constant target for soldiers/thieves by having 2-3 cards that you can't do much with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the others have said, there are risks associated with this strategy, however the risks are far outweighed by the rewards in my experience.  Development cards are an important hidden resource that can swing a game from a losing position to a winning position and cities help with resource spikes.  The extra dev cards will also help keep the thief away from your high yield jackpot numbers.  &quot;Builders&quot; end up getting hurt far more by the thief than &quot;developers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player who focuses on wheat and ore, with a smaller income of sheep generally seems to win out over players who focus on wood and brick with a smaller focus on the other resources.  The wood/brick player is basically dependent on getting great expansion spots with ore/wheat or should be aiming at picking up a 2/1 port to assist them late-game.  The problem with both of these strategies is that after the initial placement, the good spots will likely be taken and having a 2/1 trade is not as good as simply acquiring the raw goods that you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, one cannot focus on everything.  It's important to pick your strategy with your starting spots and seek to work with your resources to maximise your chances of winning.  Whatever you do, don't pick starting spots which will give you jackpots of brick or wood with ore or wheat (and always prioritise sheep last unless you're playing Seafarers).  Even if you get good numbers this will likely lose the game for you as players will target you for thieves/soldiers to get whichever one of those resources they're short of and you won't be able to burn your cards in an efficient combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to winning settlers is to acquire and burn large amounts of resources.  Spiky play is the best way to do that.  Focussing on a development strategy is the spikiest way to play and is therefore the strongest path.  &lt;em&gt;The numbers are more important than anything else I have said.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T01:52:22.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13036" CreationDate="2013-09-23T03:37:37.123" Score="4" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;if I exile a spell with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nivmagus%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Nivmagus Elemental&lt;/a&gt;, will the spell still cause the abilities of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nivix%20Cyclops&quot;&gt;Nivix Cyclops&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guttersnipe&quot;&gt;Guttersnipe&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Young Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt; to trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5869" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T08:17:36.120" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T16:13:32.997" Title="Nivmagus Elemental interactions with nivix cyclops, guttersnipe, and young pyromancer" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13035" CreationDate="2013-09-23T03:54:13.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All of your examples trigger when you &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; a spell. They happen whether that spell resolves or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen multiple EDH decks built specifically around cards such as those and Cipher, where the intent is to exile spells with Nivmagus whenever you don't really need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5842" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T03:54:13.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13041" CreationDate="2013-09-23T11:54:25.067" Score="8" ViewCount="1816" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been reading the rules, and while everything is very well explained, I can't seem to determine if the colonist is fixed to the building once placed. Say I put a colonist working on the small market, and it's now the mayor phase, and I got one new colonist from the ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I place him on a plantation (sugar, e.g.), but I also feel like the next player will pick the craftsmen card. Can I move the colonist from the hospice to the sugar mill (provided I, of course have room)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, at the end of the mayor phase, the mayor should place the number of colonists on the ship equal to the number of free &quot;work spaces&quot;, to a minimum of the number of players. Now, how exactly do you determine if the mayor &quot;forgets&quot; this. I mean, if you're a player who hopes he will forget it do you just wait out until the next role is drawn and then point out that the new colonists have been forgotten?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T16:41:11.497" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T20:16:20.457" Title="Can colonists be relocated during the Mayor phase?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13035" CreationDate="2013-09-23T12:04:21.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question doesn't make any sense because the casting of the spell and therefore the triggering of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nivix%20Cyclops&quot;&gt;Nivix Cyclops&lt;/a&gt;'s ability happens before you even have a chance to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nivmagus%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Nivmagus Elemental&lt;/a&gt;'s ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nivmagus Elemental's ability requires that the spell already exist on the stack, which means it requires that the spell must already have been created through casting or copying before it can be activated, which means Nivix Cyclops's ability would already have been triggered and would already have been placed on the stack by the time you can use Nivmagus Elemental's ability. In fact, you can even let Nivix Cyclops's ability resolve before you activate Nivmagus Elemental's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nivmagus Elemental's ability won't rewrite history so Nivix Cyclops never triggered, and it won't remove Nivix Cyclops's ability from the stack. As such, it won't stop Nivix Cyclops's ability from resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T13:31:48.507" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:31:48.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13037" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:36:09.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, during every Mayor phase, you can reassign your colonists to new buildings or plantations.  The only thing you cannot do is voluntarily place your colonists in San Juan if there is an empty space (building or plantation) for them to occupy.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your game strategy depends on cheating, then you should find a new hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T13:36:09.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13037" CreationDate="2013-09-23T13:51:39.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All your colonists can be moved each mayor phase, including ones acquired during earlier turns.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=675&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may place his new colonist(s), together with all the colonists he acquired from earlier rounds, on any empty circles on the tiles on his player board. Thus, a player may move a colonist placed on a circle or San Juan in an earlier round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is the last thing a player does during their turn, the first opportunity to remind them is after a new role card is selected or the Governor placard is moved (since otherwise it would still be during their turn.). It seems silly to place only the &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; number of colonists in the ship if &quot;forgotten&quot; at this point, and I can see how this could be exploited by players to not end the game as soon as it normally would. (&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: This rules seems is probably for later turns after a Builder phase has been selected and people cannot remember which new buildings have been built, and therefore how many colonists are supposed to be on the ship.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As his last duty, the mayor puts new colonists on the colonist ship to be used in the next mayor phase. [...] - &lt;em&gt;If a mayor forgets (players may remind him) to place new colonists on the colonist ship, players later place the minimum (number of players) on the colonist ship.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-09-23T14:03:16.053" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T14:03:16.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13035" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:13:32.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, because you cannot exile the spell with Nivmagus Elemental until the triggered abilities have already been placed on the stack (and if you want, resolved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as you cast the spell (pay costs, select targets, place the spell on the stack) the triggered abilities are placed on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a-g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put&#xA;  onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell's controller had&#xA;  priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 601.2a-g have been omitted and involve selecting legal targets and paying costs for the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the spell and triggered abilities are on the stack &amp;amp; you get priority back (either by already having it, or having your opponent pass it to you). You can then activate Nivmagus Elemental's ability. Because the triggered abilities are already on the stack they will resolve even though the spell that triggered them does not resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T16:13:32.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13045" CreationDate="2013-09-23T16:34:39.493" Score="8" ViewCount="3723" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the situation that came up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 controls a creature enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ordeal%20of%20Heliod&quot;&gt;Ordeal of Heliod&lt;/a&gt; and two +1/+1 counters. On Player 2's turn, they cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Portent%20of%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Portent of Betrayal&lt;/a&gt; to take control of the creature, and then attack with it. The attack triggers the Ordeal, putting another +1/+1 counter on it. Now that it has three counters, it is sacrificed and a player gains 10 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which player sacrifices the enchantment and gains 10 life? The controller of the creature (Player 2) or the player who cast the enchantment (Player 1)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T18:04:31.673" Title="Ordeal of Heliod and changing creature control" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13043" CreationDate="2013-09-23T17:00:32.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only the player who controls a permanent can sacrifice it. Since it is the enchantment that must be sacrificed, the player who controls the enchantment, player 1, does so; and since the enchantment says &quot;When ~ is sacrified, &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; gain 10 life,&quot; player 1 is the one who gains the life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2013-09-23T17:00:32.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13043" CreationDate="2013-09-23T17:03:16.597" Score="16" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Magic, &amp;quot;you&amp;quot; usually refers to the current controller of a permanent, spell, or ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Changing control of a creature does not change control of the Auras or Equipment attached to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, when the Ordeal triggers, Player 1 (the player who cast the Aura) still controls it even though Player 2 (the player who cast Portent of Betrayal) now controls the creature it enchants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you could even enchant an opponent's creature from the get go (since it says &amp;quot;Enchant creature,&amp;quot; not &amp;quot;Enchant creature you control&amp;quot;). Some Auras are straight-up designed to be used this way (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pacifism&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt;), but sometimes even the ones that aren't can be used for clever tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.5.&lt;/strong&gt; The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T18:04:31.673" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T18:04:31.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13046" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18414" CreationDate="2013-09-24T05:32:20.720" Score="2" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are detailed rules for the extension &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2005/primordial-soup-freshly-spiced&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Primordial Soup: Freshly Spiced&lt;/a&gt; available online?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I found online is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/760250/primordial-soup-freshly-spiced?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;low quality picture of the cards&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/303203/analysis-of-the-new-genes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;analysis of the new genes&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;And the linked &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/weblink/163852/official-english-rulebook-z-man-games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official English Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; doesen't show the details of the genes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQIni.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SQIni.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-24T02:03:20.467" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T02:03:20.467" Title="Online Rules for Primordial Soup: Freshly Spiced" Tags="|primordial-soup|primordial-soup-fs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2013-09-24T09:24:21.990" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short. Whenever a creature is declared blocked (by declaring a blocking creature), damage will be done to the creature, and not to the player. If something happens (e.g. bounce, sacrifice), the damage is still directed to the creature (which is gone, therefore the damage goes nowhere (creature blocked)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the attacking creature has trample, it's a little different. Trample says that all damage more than toughness of the defending creature, continues to the player. Note that with trample, you have to do minimal lethal damage to blocking crature (more is allowed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-03-18T12:50:02.247" LastActivityDate="2019-03-18T12:50:02.247" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13050" CreationDate="2013-09-24T09:46:09.447" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played my first game of A Few Acres of Snow (late to the party, I know). And the end game scoring confused me just a little. The rules state that VPs for locations are doubled if there is a disc placed there...but both towns (from Development actions) and fortifications (from Fortify actions) place discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the black fortification discs double the score of locations at end of game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, but I can't find a specific rule or clarification on BGG. Anyone here know for sure?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T08:52:10.970" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T08:52:10.970" Title="Do Fortification Discs Double VPs like Town Discs?" Tags="|few-acres-of-snow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13049" CreationDate="2013-09-24T13:28:11.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Fortification discs do not double VP for locations.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treefroggames.com/wp-content/uploads/rules/few-acres-snow-eng.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;misunderstanding the rules&lt;/a&gt;. When one of the ending conditions has been met, players total the points they have scored. Locations that you &lt;strong&gt;control&lt;/strong&gt; score double the VP indicated on the map if you have a &lt;strong&gt;town disc&lt;/strong&gt; instead of a &lt;strong&gt;village cube&lt;/strong&gt; on the location to indicate control. The &amp;quot;If you have a disc in a location&amp;quot; phrase was in reference to &amp;quot;control&amp;quot; of the location which is indicated by a blue/red disc and not a fortification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player now adds up the number of victory points he has. You score points as indicated &lt;strong&gt;for locations that you control&lt;/strong&gt;, i.e. that you have a cube or disc in. If you have a disc in a location then you score double the number of points indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also score two points for each of your opponents cubes that you captured and four points for each disc you captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who has the highest total of victory points is the winner. In the case of a tie then the French player is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &lt;strong&gt;The Board&lt;/strong&gt; section is a picture indicating that the hexagonal symbol with a number in it scores Victory Points at the end of the game. (Page 4 pdf, labeled page 2 IRL)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory points&lt;/strong&gt; scored at the end of the game. You double the points if you have a &lt;strong&gt;town disc&lt;/strong&gt; in the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortification discs do not indicate control of an area. What they do is explained on (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortify a location&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fortify a location you must play a fortification card and the location card for the location you wish to fortify. You must also pay three money to the bank. You then place a fortification disc under the cube or disc in the location. A location can only have one fortification disc in it. &lt;strong&gt;A fortified location starts a siege with an additional siege strength of two, and is also immune to raids.&lt;/strong&gt; The number of fortification discs is a limit to the number of times this action can be selected. Note that if you had just resettled a location you could fortify it within the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, under &lt;strong&gt;Starting the Game&lt;/strong&gt; (page 6), they indicate how you control a location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player starts with a number of cubes and discs on the board, which represent settled locations. Cubes represent villages and discs represent towns. Certain locations are already coloured red and blue, to indicate which side they are initially controlled by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The British player should place one cube in each red square location and one disc in each red circular location. The French player should do likewise in each blue location. Having a cube or disc in a location indicates that you control it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T13:46:08.427" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11485" CreationDate="2013-09-24T14:30:57.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;@user1873 Note in the bit you quoted &quot;If any of those Buildings are in play, follow the start-of-round instructions for each.&quot; Note also on page 9 under the rules for the Builder's Hall, &quot;Once a new Building is in play, it is available for anyone to assign an Agent to&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that while the building is in the three Builder's Hall spaces it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in play. Therefore you should not follow the start of round instructions for it, because those are for buildings that are in play. This is why the rules for those buildings specify &quot;when purchased and at start of round&quot;, because otherwise they would enter play without any tokens or cubes on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that the VP chips placed on buildings in the Builder's Hall at the start of the round are a reward for the person who builds it, while the VP chips placed on the Waymoot are a reward for the person who &lt;em&gt;uses&lt;/em&gt; the building. If the building was supposed to be stocked while it was still in the Builder's Hall you would need to maintain two discrete piles of VP chips. Both common sense and the rules say that the &quot;when purchased and at start of round&quot; effects only occur after the point at which the building has been purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Also note the FAQ here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Lords_of_Waterdeep_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Lords_of_Waterdeep_FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Q: With buildings that accumulate resources, such as 'Caravan Court', are &#xA;resources placed on them while they are unbuilt (still in 'Builder's &#xA;Hall')?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No. Note 1: Those buildings do not have resources placed on them &#xA;until they are in play.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5874" LastEditorUserId="5874" LastEditDate="2013-09-24T14:41:03.570" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T14:41:03.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12957" CreationDate="2013-09-24T16:24:20.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important point to remembers, as explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13026/1671&quot;&gt;another answer&lt;/a&gt;, is that it is impossible to win by roads and settlements only. So you have to have some development, and it is not as much &quot;switching&quot; as &quot;morphing&quot; when you gradually increase the priority in getting the &quot;development&quot; resources over the &quot;building&quot; resources through placement of the new settlements, trade, and development cards play such as &quot;Years of plenty&quot; and &quot;Monopoly&quot;. One tale-telling sign that you've been building for too long is when you say, &quot;I place a settlement&quot;, turn in the four cards, and find that you have used all the five settlement pieces already. OOPS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As everybody else said, the timing and degree of morphing really depends -- namely, on the map and the initial placement. You need to learn to recognize the strengths and weaknesses of the map, and the strengths and weaknesses of your initial position, which is a learnable skill (hint: add the dots). Typically, you would have &quot;production&quot; locations (the initial two, plus may be another one) that would have 8+ dots total on each of them, while the remaining locations will be &quot;placeholders&quot; that don't produce much, but you would have built them anyway for points, to block other players, for the useful trade ports or for transition from roads to ships if you play with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/325/catan-seafarers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ships&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you keep playing the standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/17990/the-settlers-of-catan?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one big hex&lt;/a&gt; map of the basic Settlers, you will know all the strong and weak spots after ten plays. I build my own maps every time we play, and try to balance the resources off. Sometimes, though, you will just have a map which is scarce, say, in ore (by design or by chance), so in your initial placement you would want to get as close to the only ore-8 in play as possible. If you failed that, and you see that other people cut you off from it by building their initial settlements on the perimeter of that hex, you will need to change your strategy from the outset, and play your strong resources. Say if you have wood-6 and wood-9 in your initial settlements (either the map is very rich in wood, or other players got carried away placing around that ore-8), you would want to build towards the wood port and just trade whatever you need 2:1. If you do this quickly enough, you'd be able to successfully convert your &quot;building&quot; phase into the &quot;development&quot; phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you were able to place one of your initial settlements on a three-way corner of ore, grain and wool with at least three dots on each, then you can simply play off that location (and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13017/1671&quot;&gt;win&lt;/a&gt;) to either accumulate the development cards, upgrade your settlements, or trade bricks with other players who would get caught in their building phase for too long. A huge advantage of this location is this sort of versatility, while concentrating on wood and bricks will only get you endless roads. (That's why I try to avoid such locations in my custom-built maps though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T16:29:24.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2013-09-24T22:47:58.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to learn Puerto Rico two years ago, and had a second &quot;go&quot; in the past week, &quot;cramming&quot; the rules and strategy recommendations over several nights, and I think I'm still confused. Perhaps it's because the game concepts are different from what I am used to in other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanics are simple enough. Each player picks one of several roles (builder, settler, mayor, etc.) and then the players take turns playing that role, with the original picker getting some extra benefits over the other players of the respective roles. Which brings me to the first point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico is what I call a &quot;curved&quot; game, insofar as what matters is not how much benefit you get in the absolute sense from a role, but how much more you benefit compared to other players. In this regard, its shared roles makes it most like hold 'em (poker) with its &quot;shared&quot; board. If you're a poker player and you understand how hold 'em differs from other forms of poker, you'll get my point about Puerto Rico versus other games. (And if you don't understand this, maybe it's not the game for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal in the game is end up with the most victory points, but aiming directly for them might not be the best way to get there. Early in the game, it makes better sense to go for cash, to acquire buildings and other elements of a victory point &quot;machine,&quot; and then switch to playing for victory points about mid-game. This back-and-forth is not to everyone's taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then the matter of the victory condition itself. I'm used to games where someone wins if they are the first to reach a specified number of victory points, say 15, or if they have the most victory points at the end of a specified number of rounds, say 15. But that's not how Puerto Rico works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you win if the game ends (in one of three different ways) when you have the most victory points. So the goal of the game is not just to get the most victory points, but to end the game when you have the most. If you have the most victory points and can't end the game, and someone overtakes you while ending the game, the other person wins. On the other hand, you shouldn't end the game at a time when you don't have the most victory points, because someone else will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico could be a fascinating game for hard core gamers who are willing to take the time to learn its nuances because they plan to play it many times. But as a game to learn once and forget about, I would not recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-09-24T22:47:58.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13057" CreationDate="2013-09-24T18:17:03.460" Score="8" ViewCount="2055" Body="&lt;p&gt;So it has been a couple years since I played 40K, and it seems Games Workshop has come out with a 6th edition rules book since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw it in the store and first noticed that it is almost twice as thick as my 5th edition book. I also noticed it was plastic wrapped so I couldn't even flip through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is not so much &quot;what are some of the new rules&quot; as much as it is &quot;what more is in the book that makes is so much bulkier?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A perfect answer would cover some of the new rules (in a general sense) and give me a brief overview of the contents (I expect there will be story sections, rules, painting techniques, pictures, ect., but what else?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5879" LastEditorUserId="5" LastEditDate="2013-09-25T06:49:27.020" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T00:25:41.597" Title="What is new in the 6th edition of Warhammer 40K?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13055" CreationDate="2013-09-25T15:16:07.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule-book itself is full color with expanded art and fluff sections.  Though you won't find anything here that wasn't present in previous versions outside of some new artwork.  Most of the price increase was because it's GW and that's just what they do.  Any other gaming company would probably charge 10-20% less for the same thing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GW did just release a rules only version that drops the fluff and color artwork for a price reduction.  The new starter also contains a mini-rulebook just like last edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6th was a pretty big overhaul to the game.  For better or worse a lot of mechanics from the current version of Fantasy where ported over.  I'll go over the big changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flyers&lt;/strong&gt; - Probably the biggest change and also includes Flying Monstrous Creatures.  They move fast and are hard to hit (always requiring a 6+ to hit regardless of BS).  They also neglected to give many of the armies any units with the new Skyfire rule to shoot them down.  This has had a great impact on balance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allies&lt;/strong&gt; - You can take small detachments from other codexes based on an allies matrix.  Some allegiances are good enough that your characters can join up with allied squads.  Game balance has been tossed out the window this edition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hull Points&lt;/strong&gt; - Vehicles essentially have wounds now.  Usually 3 for standard vehicles, 2 for lights like speeders, and 4 for the big guys like Land Raiders.  Pens or Glances take off a hull point.  There is no damage table for glances anymore.  They also made AP 2 weapons add 1 to the damage table, and AP 1 adds 2.  Pretty much everyone's mech has been shelved this edition. It's far to easy to glance vehicles to death.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Snap Fire&lt;/strong&gt; - Pretty much anything can move and shoot now, but heavies need 6+ to hit if they move.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assault&lt;/strong&gt; - Big changes here.  Assault moves are 2d6 now instead of a fixed 6&quot;.  They also included challenges between characters.  Defender can also snap fire into assaulting units now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wound Allocation&lt;/strong&gt; - Another big change.  Wound allocation is by closest model.  Characters can jump out of the way to transfer the hit to a mook on a 4+(2+ if it's an IC).  This effectively allows you to take a nasty character with a big squad of guardsman for +20 wounds. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="2733" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T11:28:18.480" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T11:28:18.480" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13060" CreationDate="2013-09-26T22:08:33.117" Score="3" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for websites that specialize in providing rules and digital resources for card/board games online. Recently I've been creating lots of simple games for my design classes and I would like to post my work online for others to play (or ignore if they so choose). To be clear I'm not looking for a place to sell games nor am I looking to create an online computer version of the game. I simply want to post the rules and materials online where someone who is interested in indie games can find them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5885" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-09-26T22:40:00.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T03:56:13.063" Title="Where online can I post my (free) rules and materials for games I've created?" Tags="|online|game-development|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13059" CreationDate="2013-09-26T22:55:50.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say the first place that jumps to mind for me is boardgamegeek.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This forum seems like an appropriate place to post your rules and materials:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/26/boardgamegeek/board-game-design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/26/boardgamegeek/board-game-design&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might consider setting up a tumblr or some other website you control and link the materials and information in the forum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-09-26T22:55:50.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13070" CreationDate="2013-09-27T11:37:40.793" Score="34" ViewCount="7125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why this special treatment for mana-abilities? What are the design implications if they didn't go on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5888" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T20:14:55.733" LastActivityDate="2022-09-06T06:30:00.113" Title="Why do mana abilities not go on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13065" CreationDate="2013-09-27T12:32:07.823" Score="11" ViewCount="1253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidslime&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt;, counter abilities - but they say they can't counter mana abilities. Why is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T23:49:28.110" Title="Why do some cards which counter abilities say they can't counter mana abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13064" CreationDate="2013-09-27T12:32:07.823" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because mana abilities get special treatment that prevents countering: they resolve instantly, without first going onto the stack. That leaves no opportunity to target them with anything - such as a counter spell - before they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 605.3 describes this for activated abilities (as in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;), and rule 605.4 describes this for triggered abilities (as in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Cobra&quot;&gt;Lotus Cobra&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Activating an activated mana ability follows the rules for activating any other activated ability (see rule 602.2), with the following exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.3b&lt;/strong&gt; An activated mana ability doesn't go on the stack, so it can't be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated. (See rule 405.6c.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.4.&lt;/strong&gt; Triggered mana abilities follow all the rules for other triggered abilities (see rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities&amp;quot;), with the following exception:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.4a&lt;/strong&gt; A triggered mana ability doesn't go on the stack, so it can't be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after the mana ability that triggered it, without waiting for priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: An enchantment reads, &amp;quot;Whenever a player taps a land for mana, that player adds one mana to his or her mana pool of any type that land produced.&amp;quot; If a player taps lands for mana while casting a spell, the additional mana is added to the player's mana pool immediately and can be used to pay for the spell.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidslime&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt;'s italicized &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;(Mana abilities can't be targeted.)&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is &lt;em&gt;reminder text&lt;/em&gt;. It's a statement about how these rules work, not a specific limitation of Voidslime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;605.1&lt;/a&gt; defines what counts as a mana ability. At the time of writing, it has to meet three criteria: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;it doesn't have a target, it could put mana into a player's mana pool when it resolves, and it's not a loyalty ability.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; This means &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt;'s first ability is not a mana ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2024-01-12T23:49:28.110" LastActivityDate="2024-01-12T23:49:28.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2013-09-27T13:10:29.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife played Wizard/Zombie last night. She didn't win (partially cause it was the first time we played and we were all learning) but with that combo there's basically no real distinction between your deck and your discard pile since you play from both so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5889" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T13:33:58.243" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T13:33:58.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13072" CreationDate="2013-09-27T15:19:15.407" Score="3" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently playing Theros, and the set being new, was not familiar with the cards I was playing. Here is the situation that arose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stormbreath%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Stormbreath Dragon&lt;/a&gt; out beating face, when my opponent played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chained%20to%20the%20Rocks&quot;&gt;Chained to the Rocks&lt;/a&gt;, targeting my dragon. I, at the time, have forgotten that my dragon has protection from white (and so can't be targeted by Chained to the Rocks), and allow it to be exiled. A couple turns later, I remember about the protection from white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the correct way to resolve this situation? Would the resolution be different if my dragon had not been exiled and instead enchanted by a card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pacifism&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: this took place in a limited pre-release tournament, not in a casual game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T15:24:41.947" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T18:34:53.227" Title="How to resolve illegal targeting that was allowed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13068" CreationDate="2013-09-27T15:42:42.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct answer (since this appeared in a tournament setting) is to call a judge as soon as you notice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The judge is likely to act according to section 2.5 &lt;em&gt;Game Play Error&#xA;— Game Rule Violation&lt;/em&gt; of this pdf: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_infraction_procedure_guide_pdf2.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_infraction_procedure_guide_pdf2.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the error is discovered in a reasonable time frame one possibility outlined is a rollback of the game state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the error is not discovered in a reasonable time frame (likely you scenario as a couple turns have passed) the judge can leave the game in its current state after resolving state based actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my interpretation of the pdf, your dragon remains exiled in the Chained to the Rocks example, but in the pacifism example the pacifism would be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-09-27T16:00:08.833" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T16:00:08.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13062" CreationDate="2013-09-27T16:02:20.373" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of three reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would force arbitrary actions to be reversed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It would allow spells that haven't been fully cast to be countered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are already plenty of opportunities to react.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It would force arbitrary actions to be reversed&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2 [...] If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can obtain mana in the middle of casting a spell&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. If mana abilities used the stack, that means players would be able to cast spells in response. If the spell were to become unable to be cast, one would have to rewind all direct and indirect effects of those spells. Someone could have revealed private information, shuffled their library or lost the game as a result. How do you undo those?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only that, it would also make it far more likely for a spell to become unable to be cast, something that should never happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, consider this scenario where responding to mana abilities would be allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice only has a single creature on the 'field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starts casting &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Altar%20s%20Reap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Altar's Reap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;She activates a Swamp's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, Nancy casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beacon%20of%20Destruction&quot;&gt;Beacon of Destruction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nancy kills Alice's creature and shuffles her Beacon of Destruction into her library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice can no longer complete the casting of her spell (because she can't pay the additional cost), so the game rewinds to the start of the casting of the spell. Nancy needs to unshuffle her library to match the game state.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;It would allow spells that haven't been fully cast to be countered&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can obtain mana in the middle of casting a spell&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. This happens after placing the spell on the stack&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. A spell is a card on the stack (or a copy of spell), so it could be the legitimate target of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; cast in response to activating mana abilities. That means one could counter a spell that han't been (fully) cast yet. That's just too complicated and messy to allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;There are already plenty of opportunities to react&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activating mana abilities is not something someone one normally does for its own sake. It's done as part of something else, such as casting a spell. Allowing this to be interrupted would be detrimental to the game flow and would add confusion. There are plenty of other points at which players can respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earlier problems only surface when activating mana abilities when one would not have priority under the current rules. Could the game allow players to respond to the activation of mana abilities performed when a player has priority? Yes, but it would often be hard to distinguish whether an activation occurred before or during casting. It's far simpler to have mana abilities never use the stack rather that having the player try to figure out whether one can respond to a particular activation or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or activating an ability. I'm only mentioning spells to keep it simple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The steps to casting a spell&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; are:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2a) Place card on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2b-d) Make choices, including targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2e) Determine total cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2f) Activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2g) Pay the previously determined cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-12-15T08:11:56.587" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T19:32:50.623" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13071" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13062" CreationDate="2013-09-27T18:15:50.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the simplest answer is that mana abilities are generally used while casting a spell to pay a cost. If they had to be put on the stack, then they could never be used while casting a spell because you would be taking another action before a previous action is complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will&#xA;  eventually resolve and have its effect. Casting a spell follows the&#xA;  steps listed below, in order. If, at any point during the casting of a&#xA;  spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed&#xA;  below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the&#xA;  moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, &quot;Handling&#xA;  Illegal Actions&quot;). Announcements and payments can't be altered after&#xA;  they've been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a-g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put&#xA;  onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell's controller had&#xA;  priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you follow 601.2 to it's conculsion you see that you could not activate the mana ability if it was not treated differently because you don't have priority while you are 'casting' a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes you had priority when you started to cast the spell and you will have it again when you are done casting the spell, but while you are 'casting' it, (Paying its cost, choosing its targets etc) there is no passing of priority so no abilities or other spells can be used/cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it was treated like a normal ability, which you also can not activate while casting a spell, then you could never use them to pay a cost while casting a spell. they would always have to be used before you started paying the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T18:15:50.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13068" CreationDate="2013-09-27T18:34:53.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The right answer, regardless of REL, starts with &amp;quot;call a judge.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequences to rules violations questions always vary depending on the REL (Rules Enforcement Level) that the event is operating under. Prereleases are held at Regular REL, so the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;IPG (Infraction Procedure Guide)&lt;/a&gt; does not apply there - only at Competitive REL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a guide to judging at Regular REL&lt;/a&gt;, which refers to the following for miscellaneous mistakes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A player makes an in-game error not mentioned above&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will cover the bulk of player errors, and we will usually leave the game as it is. Fix anything that is currently illegal (e.g. an Aura enchanting an illegal permanent or a card in the wrong zone) and continue the game. If the error was caught soon after and rewinding is relatively easy, you may choose to undo all the actions back to the point that the illegal action happened. This can include returning random cards from the hand to the library to undo card draws (though don't shuffle the library if you do this!), and reversing various other actions (such as declaring attackers or blockers). Don't go crazy with this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the judge's option, he or she can alter the existing game state to best adjust for the mistake. That same guide also calls out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the philosophy or fixes found in other documents (such as the Infraction Procedure Guide) are designed for a stricter environment and should not be applied at a tournament run at Regular REL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of other articles published by Wizards about judging at Regular REL - see both &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20080605a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20080605a&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20101111a&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20101111a&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1328" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-27T18:34:53.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9702" CreationDate="2013-09-28T04:06:03.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;since cipher triggers by combat damage to the player, first strike shouldn't apply any real changes to the mechanic of cipher. first strike applies damage first during blocking to a creature assigned to block, thus not applying damage to the player. unless double strike may be interrupted during the damage phase, double strike will not benefit nivmagus that turn, but the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5892" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T04:06:03.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4277" CreationDate="2013-09-28T11:58:48.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Brailling&quot; tiles would probably take some practice, but anybody can feel when they've touched a blank tile, which can be quite valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T11:58:48.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12984" CreationDate="2013-09-28T12:37:06.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mono-Red&lt;/strong&gt;. Aggressive creatures and burn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White Weenie&lt;/strong&gt;. Aggressive creatures, cheap removal and equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mono-Black Aggro&lt;/strong&gt;. Aggressive creatures, removal and discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U/W Control&lt;/strong&gt;. Counterspells, board wipes, removal, card draw and a few big finishers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5-Color Control&lt;/strong&gt;. Like U/W but with more powerful spells and mana-fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reanimator&lt;/strong&gt;. Put fatties in the graveyard and then reanimate them cheaply and quickly. This requires some card draw and filtering to go off reliably. This deck often contains removal and permission like a control deck, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ramp&lt;/strong&gt;. Spend your early turns putting extra lands on the battlefield and playing mana rocks. Then, start dropping fatties before your opponent can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Storm Combo&lt;/strong&gt;. Draw through your deck quickly, upping your storm count until you finish your opponent with Grapeshot or Empty the Warrens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Land Destruction&lt;/strong&gt;. Play mana rocks early and then cripple your opponent with a spell like Armageddon or Jokulhaups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="298" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T12:37:06.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13078" CreationDate="2013-09-28T17:25:05.663" Score="0" ViewCount="1679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I open 1D -- Partner 1S -- I bid 2C (my holding was xx-Kx-AQTxx-AQxx) -- Partner bids 2D --&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What do I bid, and why? (since I have to respond when partner keeps changing suit and no NT has been yet bid) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T19:40:54.727" Title="What to bid in this situation (xx-Kx-AQTxx-AQxx, 1D-1S-2C-2D...)? (System: Simple SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13076" CreationDate="2013-09-28T21:50:18.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 2C was nonforcing; partner could have passed 2C but instead showed a preference for your first suit with 2D. This is to play. Depending on your responding style, partner could have as little as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;KTxxx&#xA;xxxx&#xA;xx&#xA;xx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or as much as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;KQxx&#xA;Qxx&#xA;Jxx&#xA;xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, you don't have quite enough to take another bid and should pass. To bid again, you should have at least reversing strength (e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Kx&#xA;Kx&#xA;AQTxx&#xA;AQxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which in my opinion is not quite enough to make a game-forcing jump-shift after partner responds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-09-28T21:50:18.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13076" CreationDate="2013-09-29T00:32:31.327" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your partner's 2D bid was a &quot;sign-off&quot; bid, because it mentioned your diamonds for a second time (between the two of you), without raising to 3D, thereby allowing you to pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-09-30T19:50:08.053" LastActivityDate="2013-09-30T19:50:08.053" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13079" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13081" CreationDate="2013-09-29T06:03:17.013" Score="11" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Puerto Rico, during the Settlers phase, are players required to pick a plantation? Do they have the option to skip picking a plantation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5894" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T09:14:10.713" Title="In Puerto Rico, during the Settlers phase, are players required to pick a plantation" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13090" CreationDate="2013-09-29T06:08:16.900" Score="5" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing as Expatriette in a Sentinels of the Multiverse game and my starting four cards were all ammo cards.  As each ammo card says it has to be played next to a gun card, I effectively couldn't do anything with my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the official rules allow a hero to trash and redraw their starting hand?  If so, is there a penalty?  I searched the official rulebook and the Rook City expansion book and didn't see anything, but I don't know if one of the later expansions or official rulebook clarifications added a provision about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T17:03:02.433" Title="Can I redraw my hand at the start of the game in Sentinels of the Multiverse?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13079" CreationDate="2013-09-29T09:14:10.713" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the players are not &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt; to pick a plantation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who chooses this role may take either a quarry tile as his privilege or one of the face-up plantation tiles and place it on any empty island space on his player board. Afterwards, each other player, in clockwise order, &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; take one of the face-up plantation tiles (not a quarry tile! - exception: construction hut) and place it on any empty island space on his player board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T09:14:10.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13062" CreationDate="2013-09-29T13:47:28.493" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some history behind the decision. Back in the dark ages of MtG rules, before sixth edition, there were a lot of rules that were unintuitive and confusing. With the release of Fifth Edition, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usc.edu/dept/Deckmasters/archive/mtg/rules-5e.txt&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;new type of ability&lt;/a&gt; was introduced,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mana Sources:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;Mana sources&amp;quot; are a new category of abilities. They include the ability of lands to be tapped for mana and all abilities that provide mana as interrupts. For example, Llanowar Elves's ability is now considered a mana source, but the ability of Ice Cauldron is not. Mana sources may be used whenever desired and may not be interrupted; there is no gap between playing the ability and resolving it. For example, you can't Rust a Mox; only continuous effects can stop a mana source from producing mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a Mana Source is anything that generated mana. Spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; from earlier editions can be found with the card type &lt;strong&gt;Mana Source&lt;/strong&gt;. Fifth Edition rules clarified that they may not be interrupted. This was necessary, because before the stack, Interrupts (depreciated, and later reclassified as Instants) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/bb27&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;were handled in batches&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning, there was the batch. You played a spell, a flurry of &amp;quot;fast effects&amp;quot; were played in response, and then everything (well, everything except interrupts) resolved using the &amp;quot;last in, first out rule,&amp;quot; with no chance of playing more spells in the middle. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing issues presented by Red Elemental Blast and Blue Elemental Blast (and later, Hydroblast and Pyroblast) were particularly troublesome. Interrupts made sense when they targeted spells, but what happened when they began targeting permanents? Remember, removing the source of a fast effect does not remove the fast effect itself, but what about stopping the fast effect in response to it being played? [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the current rules, Mark taps his Prodigal Sorcerer in an attempt to deal 1 damage to Randy. In response, Randy plays Red Elemental Blast, targeting the Prodigal Sorcerer. This destroys the Sorcerer, but not before its &amp;quot;ping&amp;quot; effect goes onto the stack. That 1 damage is still dealt to Randy. Now, &lt;strong&gt;under the earliest Magic rules, Mark would announce the tapping of his Sorcerer, but Randy could say, &amp;quot;Hold on a minute! I want to interrupt your effect.&amp;quot; This would stop the game, target the Sorcerer with Randy's Red Elemental Blast, and prevent the damage from ever being dealt. This created huge amounts of confusion over timing:&lt;/strong&gt; The active player was supposed to have priority each turn, &lt;strong&gt;but interrupts being used this way seemed to contradict the rule&lt;/strong&gt;. This problem, however, was corrected before interrupts were done away with entirely. The ruling said that if you targeted a permanent with an interrupt, the interrupt was played &amp;quot;as an instant.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, under the pre-fifth edition rules, you could kill a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Interdict&quot;&gt;Interdict&lt;/a&gt; a land tapping for mana to prevent a player from generating enough mana to play a spell, and the game would have to backup to the point of the illegal action of casting a spell you couldn't pay the cost for. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/advanced/6e/6e_letter.asp&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sixth Edition rules and the stack&lt;/a&gt; did away with all this confusion. There are no longer batches and special timing rules for Interrupts/Instants, they all go on the Stack. Abilities that generate mana don't go on the stack, amd therefore cannot be responded to, removing the necessity to specify on the cards that they cannot target mana abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T13:47:28.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13087" CreationDate="2013-09-29T14:19:17.323" Score="6" ViewCount="1283" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Elder Signs, you can cast a spell to secure a die. Let's say this is the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player needs two terror results to complete the final task in an adventure and rolls 2 green dice and the red die. The two green dice come up with terror and the red die comes up with wild. The player opts to use the two green dice to complete the task and casts a spell to secure the wild die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the next player's turn, can that person use the red &quot;wild&quot; that was secured, even if red wouldn't have been part of that player's roll (as in that player did not play a unique item to add the red die to their rolls) or, in order to get access to the wild that is secured on the spell, does that player need to play something to get access to the red die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5896" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T16:29:37.513" Title="How to Handle Red/Yellow Secured Dice" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13088" CreationDate="2013-09-29T16:07:10.260" Score="2" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;What color do I need to block a bestowed creature which got intimidate? Example: I cast a black bestow aura which grants intimidate on a blue creature. Do I need a blue creature to block it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:39:03.990" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:39:03.990" Title="Bestow and Intimidate - what color do I need?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13084" CreationDate="2013-09-29T16:09:30.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players have access to the Red 'Wild' Die and need not play anything.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elder Sign revised rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 12, &lt;strong&gt;Adding Dice to the Dice Pool&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unique Item cards often show a red die icon. During his turn, a player may discard one of these items to add the red die to his dice pool.** [...] A die that is added to the dice pool stays in the pool until the player either uses it to complete a task or discards it after a failed roll. &lt;strong&gt;Unless dice are locked or secured by a spell, the player returns any dice granted by common or unique items to the supply at the end of the Resolution phase.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and (page 13, &lt;strong&gt;Securing Dice with Spells&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many spells allow a player to secure a die result for later use. These are signified by the securing icon. [...] &lt;strong&gt;When a die is secured on a Spell card, it remains there until any player chooses to use it to complete a task, removes it from the spell to roll it (see “Removing Secured Dice” on page 14), or until another effect locks that die (see “Locked Dice” on page 12).&lt;/strong&gt; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the breakout box on (page 14, &lt;strong&gt;Removing Secured Dice&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dice secured by focusing or assisting can only be removed by the player who secured them, and they return to the dice pool at the end of his Resolution phase. &lt;strong&gt;Dice secured by a spell can be removed from the spell by any player during his turn for use in a roll.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq_v1.0-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elder Sign FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spells and Held Dice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spells that secure dice are cast after a player’s roll, not before. The player looks at the roll results. Then, if he wishes to secure a particular die, casts the spell and places the die on the spell. &lt;strong&gt;The secured die remains on the spell card until a player uses it to complete a task or until it is otherwise removed (as described below).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring any of the reasons below, the secured die is available to complete a task. (Like your aforementioned playing a unique item)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Dice may have their results modified by items/abilities before being placed on a spell, but not afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Before any roll, a player may remove some or all of the dice held on spells in order to roll them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Any spell that has no dice remaining on it is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• New dice cannot be added to a spell to replace those that&#xA;  were removed from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• If a die becomes locked while it is on a spell, the die is removed from the spell and locked. If the spell has no dice remaining on it, the spell is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-09-29T16:29:37.513" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T16:29:37.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13086" CreationDate="2013-09-29T16:37:34.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, only blue (or artifact) creatures can block it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cavern%20Lampad&quot;&gt;Cavern Lampad&lt;/a&gt; unfortunately doesn't include reminder text for Intimidate, but if it did, it would say &amp;quot;This creature can't be blocked except by artifact creatures and/or creatures that share a color with it.&amp;quot;. It's granting the ability to your blue creature, so it's that creature's color that matters. Yes, Cavern Lampad does also itself have intimidate, but that's irrelevant; you're attacking with the enchanted creature, not the Lampad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes Auras do actually have abilities, as opposed to granting abilities to the creatures they enchant. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crown%20of%20Flames&quot;&gt;Crown of Flames&lt;/a&gt; has the firebreathing ability ({R}: Enchanted creature gets +1/+0 until end of turn), while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Mantle&quot;&gt;Dragon Mantle&lt;/a&gt; gives that ability to the creature it enchants (&amp;quot;Enchanted creature has {R}: This creature gets +1/+0 until end of turn.&amp;quot;). But in the case of intimidate, it has to be like this, with the creature, not the aura, having the ability. You're attacking with the creature, not the aura, so for intimidate to do anything, the creature has to have it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T16:37:34.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13086" CreationDate="2013-09-29T16:38:47.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you need a blue and/or artifact creature to block a blue creature enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cavern%20Lampad&quot;&gt;Cavern Lampad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_Rulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rule book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intimidate&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A keyword ability seen on creatures. &lt;strong&gt;A creature with intimidate can’t be blocked except by creatures that share a color with it and/ or artifact creatures.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, a red creature with intimidate could be blocked by a red creature, a red-and-green creature, or any artifact creature. Intimidate only matters when the creature with the ability is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130927.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.13. Intimidate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.13b A creature with intimidate can’t be blocked except by artifact creatures and/or creatures that share a color with it. (See rule 509, “Declare Blockers Step.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T16:38:47.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13080" CreationDate="2013-09-29T17:03:02.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the rules do not allow for mulligans and the official site has no provisions in any expansion or clarifications that add this feature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official sites &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/downloads&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;downloads page&lt;/a&gt; has copies of the official rules and the rules for each expansion. None mention a process for mulligans of your initial 4 card hands. The &lt;strong&gt;Changes&lt;/strong&gt; section also only notes changes to the Villian, Heroes, and Environments cards and no changes to the turn structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/system/files/downloads/Sentinels%20of%20the%20Multiverse%20Enhanced%20Edition%20Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; (page 4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...] After the heroes, villain, and environment have been chosen, each player draws the top four cards of their hero deck. The game begins with the villains turn, then proceeds clockwise around the table [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T17:03:02.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13059" CreationDate="2013-09-29T18:35:09.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/groups/320445024722916/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Card and Board Game Designers Guild (on Facebook)&lt;/a&gt; is a great source of criticism and suggestions. I'm not sure how well the idea of &quot;hosting finished files&quot; works with the stated purpose of the Guild, but it's good to know about regardless!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end up going with a blog of some sorts, you might consider posting at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/tabletopgamedesign&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;/r/tabletopgamedesign&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2013-09-29T18:35:09.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-09-30T04:20:09.110" Score="3" ViewCount="2027" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a Yugioh card with the effect (activated on the field) that you can discard a card in your hand and/or one you control to target another card on the field and destroy it?  This would, in theory, be nice to couple with Master Hyperion -- because you could then use Master Hyperion's effect to send the card recently put in the graveyard to the banished area to resolve Hyperion's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5443" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T19:49:54.847" Title="Yugioh: Sacrifice a field card to destroy target monster" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13094" CreationDate="2013-09-30T20:02:32.223" Score="4" ViewCount="1045" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=43602&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day of the Dragons&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q04b9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Day of the Dragons card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Day of the Dragons leaves the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;sacrifice all Dragons you control&lt;/strong&gt;. Then return the exiled cards to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the part I've highlighted. What exactly does that mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I invoke a dragon card after using the enchantment (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23206&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dromar, the Banisher&lt;/a&gt; for example), when the enchantment leaves play do I have to sacrifice both my 5/5 Dragon tokens &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; Dromar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5740" LastEditorUserId="3156" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T07:27:14.133" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T07:27:14.133" Title="Do I have to sacrifice non-token dragons to Day of the Dragons?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13093" CreationDate="2013-09-30T20:13:21.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you would have to sacrifice all dragons creatures and creature tokens under your control, regardless of where they came from or when they were cast. &lt;em&gt;All Dragons&lt;/em&gt; means all permanents (creatures, tokens) that have have &lt;em&gt;Dragon&lt;/em&gt; in their supertype or subtype. &quot;Under your control&quot; should be clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T15:43:54.160" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T15:43:54.160" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12889" CreationDate="2013-10-01T12:11:06.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to play garbage stayman, you must first remove the 2NT response from your convention card (some people play that it shows both majors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the previous answer is concerned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One you have decided to bid a weak Stayman, it is imperative that you&#xA;  pass opener's rebid.&#xA;  Any subsequent action of any sort by your hand categorically promises&#xA;  8+ points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, i have to make an amendment. Biddind 2h after 1NT-2c-2d is not forcing. it is a &quot;pass or correct&quot; bid where opener should pass with 3 hearts or bid 2s when not having 3 hearts (so he has 3 spades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way you can bid garbage stayman even with: xxxx, xxxx, x, xxxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If until now you played this sequence (1nt-2c-2d-2h) to show an invitational hand with 5 hearts and 4 spades, you can always use (1nt-2d-2h-2s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could even more extend it further and use this kind of stayman with hands like x,xxxx,xx,xxxxxx where the bidding could be like (1nt-2c-2d-2h-2s-3c). This is for sure sign-off, since 2h can be passed. So now instead of signing-off immediately in 3c, you can check for a heart fit, (or even a moysian one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T12:11:06.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13098" CreationDate="2013-10-01T18:38:02.007" Score="6" ViewCount="3128" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm a little upset, but I am realizing this is just part of MtG.  I spent some time last year putting together some nice decks and stocking up on quite a bit of the M13 cards.  And then work / life got in the way I didn't get to play as much as I thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, M13 has rotated out.  I can still use my RtoR and GC and I've already ordered a deck builder's set for M14 which should get here today.  I realize that I can still technically use M13 for casual gameplay, but not sure I want to continue investing time deck building with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I just sell them?  Do I gain anything by holding onto them?  Maybe just keeping the rare cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4974" LastEditorUserId="4974" LastEditDate="2013-10-01T19:36:53.057" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T22:22:42.307" Title="What are my cards good for once they have rotated out of Standard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13097" CreationDate="2013-10-01T19:14:44.060" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on how your question is worded, I assume you are talking about standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you're really asking a more general question, &lt;strong&gt;&quot;What are my cards good for once they have rotated out of Standard?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can still be played in alternate formats, such as Modern, Legacy, and Commander (and casual, as you've noted)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards may be reprinted in standard again in the future, in which case you can use your old printings instead of buying new ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From an investment standpoint, some cards may appreciate in value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally hang onto all of my old cards as my collection hasn't gotten too unwieldly in size yet. Whether or not your want to sell yours off is really just a personal decision about whether you think you'll be interested in different formats in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want them anymore, you might also consider trading them for more current cards with players who do play other formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-10-01T19:14:44.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-02T00:36:17.153" Score="8" ViewCount="5612" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Lackey&quot;&gt;Goblin Lackey&lt;/a&gt;, then I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burst%20of%20Speed&quot;&gt;Burst of Speed&lt;/a&gt; and it gains haste. I attack with it and my opponent doesn't block. I put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Siege-Gang%20Commander&quot;&gt;Siege-Gang Commander&lt;/a&gt; due to Goblin Lackey's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the Siege-Gang Commander have haste?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5908" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T01:10:57.197" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T16:32:57.810" Title="If I cast a spell that gives haste to all my creatures until end of turn, then cast a creature, will it gain haste?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13100" CreationDate="2013-10-02T01:14:28.607" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Burst of Speed only affects creatures in play at the time it resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burst%20of%20Speed&quot;&gt;Burst of Speed&lt;/a&gt; at the bottom of the page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10/1/2009 Burst of Speed affects only creatures you control at the time it resolves. It won't affect creatures that come under your control later in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T01:14:28.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13100" CreationDate="2013-10-02T02:56:58.360" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only creatures in play when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burst%20of%20Speed&quot;&gt;Burst of Speed&lt;/a&gt; resolves are affected - it even says so in the rulings. But in your example, it won't matter because by the time Goblin Lackey lets you get your extra Goblin out, you're already well past your chance to attack (unless you somehow get a second combat phase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're curious about the actual rules behind this, unfortunately, it's one of the more annoying nitpicky details. Spells and non-static abilities which modify characteristics (name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, &lt;strong&gt;abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier) determine the set of objects they apply to when they resolve. Haste is an ability, which is a characteristic, so Burst of Speed only affects the creatures that are on the battlefield when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, spells and non-static abilities which &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; modify characteristics are considered to be modifying the rules of the game and determine what they apply to continuously. For example, there's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dread%20Charge&quot;&gt;Dread Charge&lt;/a&gt;, which looks like it's granting something like fear, but since it's not actually granting an ability, will indeed apply to creatures which come into play after you cast it. Alternatively, in the context of your example, if hypothetically haste weren't an ability, and instead Burst of Speed said &amp;quot;Until end of turn, creatures you control can attack even if they haven't been under your control continuously since your most recent turn began&amp;quot;, then it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; affect subsequent creatures that enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Indestructible&amp;quot; was recently &amp;quot;fixed&amp;quot; to become a keyword ability, so like with haste and Burst of Speed, for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Charm&quot;&gt;Boros Charm&lt;/a&gt; now only applies to creatures in play when you cast it. On the other hand, &amp;quot;is unblockable&amp;quot; was changed to &amp;quot;can't be blocked&amp;quot; to emphasize that it's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; an ability, so for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glaring%20Spotlight&quot;&gt;Glaring Spotlight&lt;/a&gt;'s ability &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; apply to creatures which come into play after you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the full rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won't change. (Note that this works differently than a continuous effect from a static ability.) A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability that doesn't modify the characteristics or change the controller of any objects modifies the rules of the game, so it can affect objects that weren't affected when that continuous effect began. If a single continuous effect has parts that modify the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects and other parts that don't, the set of objects each part applies to is determined independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: An effect that reads &amp;quot;All white creatures get +1/+1 until end of turn&amp;quot; gives the bonus to all permanents that are white creatures when the spell or ability resolves -- even if they change color later -- and doesn't affect those that enter the battlefield or turn white afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: An effect that reads &amp;quot;Prevent all damage creatures would deal this turn&amp;quot; doesn't modify any object's characteristics, so it's modifying the rules of the game. That means the effect will apply even to damage from creatures that weren't on the battlefield when the continuous effect began. It also affects damage from permanents that become creatures later in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, static abilities also apply continuously. This isn't usually confusing; they're written as simple statements of fact, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blur%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Blur Sliver&lt;/a&gt;'s &amp;quot;Sliver creatures you control have haste&amp;quot;, which while in play gives all your Slivers haste, plain and simple. The full rule for that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3d Static abilities are written as statements. They're simply true. Static abilities create continuous effects which are active while the permanent with the ability is on the battlefield and has the ability, or while the object with the ability is in the appropriate zone. See rule 604, &amp;quot;Handling Static Abilities.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-02T16:32:57.810" LastActivityDate="2013-10-02T16:32:57.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2557" CreationDate="2013-10-03T01:43:27.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, if a player charges you money and you decide to pay with some of the property from your completed set that includes a House and/or Hotel, the House or Hotel must be placed on the table next to your property section until you complete another set and it can be placed on top. You can also pay with your house or hotel card if you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source :&lt;a href=&quot;http://monopolydealrules.com/index.php?page=house#top&quot;&gt;http://monopolydealrules.com/index.php?page=house#top&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5915" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-10-03T07:59:57.800" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T07:59:57.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12878" CreationDate="2013-10-03T02:33:10.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far all my searching of forums has yielded only one result. Apparently someone asked the same question on boardgamegeek and received the following answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Yes, the vehicle doesn't need to be in the engagement for the Speeder Bay's ability to take effect.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning, that yes, my speeder should have been able to damage the TIE Attack Squadron.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See post on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1028134/snowspeeder-launch-bay-targets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastActivityDate="2013-10-03T02:33:10.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13159" CreationDate="2013-10-03T16:15:21.697" Score="8" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game, I encountered and defeated a henchman at the Swallowtail Festival location. The location card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When Closing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Defeat or acquire the next card in the deck. If there isn't one, you may close this location automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I revealed the next card, it was the villain. What should I do in this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treat it as a villain&lt;/strong&gt;. All other players may temporarily close locations, then I encounter the villain. If successful, the villain flees to another open location or I win, as appropriate. The location is (double!) closed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treat it as just another monster&lt;/strong&gt;. I encounter the villain. If I succeed, the location is closed because I completed its requirement, but the villain does not flee. Because the location contains the villain, the location actually remains open and all non-villain cards are banished.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ruled it as the second option in play, but in hindsight, the first one seems increasingly plausible, though I'm still not convinced which is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T17:52:05.880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T02:01:08.917" Title="In Pathfinder ACG, what happens if I must encounter the Villain because of another effect?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12508" CreationDate="2013-10-04T15:55:42.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the board art is also different and that's worth mentioning because if you buy the &lt;strong&gt;In the lab&lt;/strong&gt; expansion you will end up with distinct board styles even purchasing the new cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T15:55:42.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2013-10-04T16:04:27.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't make the game easier or harder per se, but it gives more freedom for the players to move since while on the original you have to get 5 cards of the same color (what keeps leading players to meet with each other constantly in order to pass cards) when you add the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/137136/pandemic-in-the-lab&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;In the Lab&lt;/a&gt; mechanics instead of meeting the player the card you otherwise would pass can now be used on the lab spots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is a bit more complicated than the original mechanic it is way more thematic and let the players move more freely. I don't think it makes the game easier or harder but it does make the game better and more enjoyable, specially for experienced players due to the added complexity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T16:04:27.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13115" CreationDate="2013-10-04T16:15:07.210" Score="0" ViewCount="3980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read some posts on BGG stating that you can only make decent decks to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/103886/star-wars-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star Wars: the card game&lt;/a&gt; if you purchase at least 2 core sets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also it seems that if you want decent decks for all 6 factions two copies of the Edge of Darkness expansion are also needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how much buying only 1 copy of the core will affect my overall impression of the game comparing to a initial big purchase of 2 cores + 2 edge of darkness? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I like the game better with the big package or is it possible to play for a couple of weeks to feel the game and after that purchase more cards? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T02:01:59.717" Title="Should I buy 2 core sets of Star Wars: the card game LCG right from the start?" Tags="|star-wars-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13114" CreationDate="2013-10-04T16:25:42.070" Score="2" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter loves stories and games. She plays games like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/41916/the-magic-labyrinth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Magic Labyrinth&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8195/viva-topo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viva Topo!&lt;/a&gt; fairly well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about buying &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/127398/legends-of-andor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Legends of Andor&lt;/a&gt; to play with her since it seems to have a nice story line and beautiful components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since she does not know how to read yet, I would be doing all the reading, but I don't want to play the game by myself. I'd like her to make her own decisions. Obviously I also want us to be able to beat the game after some effort. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is she too young for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T16:54:23.597" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T20:45:57.720" Title="Can a 5 year old kid play Legends of Andor?" Tags="|kids|legends-of-andor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13112" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-04T19:30:13.887" Score="5" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Minion%20Reflector&quot;&gt;Minion Reflector&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doubling%20Season&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt; are out, and then you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kalonian%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Kalonian Hydra&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when the token hydra(s) with haste attack? How many counters do the Hydras wind up with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would be so kind as to walk me through it step by step, I'd appreciate it. There's a few guys in the office and they want to prove their rightness by talking loudly and faster, so I can't quite follow what they're trying to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that there will be 2x token hydras created, and the final total will be ?? (56? 40?) +1/+1 counters on each of the 3 Hydras. They think there will be 72 +1/+1 counters.  Am I right? Are they right? Is there a different number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I think it plays out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kalonian Hydra hits the battlefield with 8x counters because of Doubling Season (see the page, it's a ruling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Minion Reflector kicks in and creates the token copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Doubling Season kicks in, replacing the 1 token copy with 2 token copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Doubling Season plays out the same for the token as the original because the hydra is a 0/0 coming into play with 4 counters because it says so on the card, so now there are 2x tokens with 8 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So far me and the guys in the office are all in agreement here, but then it starts to change.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 2x Hydras with haste attack another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Their doubling abilities trigger (keyword trigger, right?) to double the counters on all of the other hydras.  Each Hydra has 8 counters at this point of time, so would get 8 more if this is where it stopped, and would wind up at 16 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think the important difference in calculations is if the doubling abilities all trigger at the exact same time, or if they somehow go on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Doubling Season replacement effect doubles the number of counters placed on the hydras.  They all have 8, and would get 8 more.  Doubling Season says they have 8 and will get 16 more, for a total of 24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Step 7 happens for each hydra, in this case 2, because only 2 hydras are attacking.  Each Hydra gets 16 counters from each other hydra, for a total of 8 + 16 + 16 = 40&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not clear on their math, otherwise I'd explain it.  The guys at the office say that the Hydras wind up with 72 counters.  I think the biggest crux is 6.5 and when the triggers occur and what values they operate on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to Magic, been playing less than a year, and I mostly play casual play, so break it down Barney-style if you could :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5923" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-10-05T03:03:16.313" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T20:10:46.007" Title="What are the results of combining Minion Reflector, Doubling Season, and Kalonian Hydra?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13112" CreationDate="2013-10-04T20:30:04.177" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each instance of the ability would go on the stack one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first 8/8 hydra attacks and puts his ability on the stack,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second hydra's ability goes on the stack,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Doubling season's replacement effect modifies them &lt;strong&gt;each time the hydra's ability triggers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are the active player and they both trigger at once, then you get to decide what order they go onto the stack, even though in this case it does not much matter because they both do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first hydra doubles the counters, since it is going to put counters on something and the Doubling season says to put twice that many on, they end up with 8 + 16 =24 counters instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second hydra doubles the counters, since it is going to put counters on something and the Doubling season says to put twice that many on, they end up with 24 + 48 = 72 counters instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so they are 8 +16 = 24&#xA;then they are 24 + 48 = 72.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.1a Effects that use the word &quot;instead&quot; are replacement effects. Most replacement effects use the word &quot;instead&quot; to indicate what&#xA;  events will be replaced with other events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules show that each ability would count the number of counters at the time it resolves, not when it is put on the stack. (Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2g &lt;strong&gt;If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only&#xA;  once, when the effect is applied&lt;/strong&gt;. If the effect requires information&#xA;  from a specific object, including the source of the ability itself or&#xA;  a target that's become illegal, the effect uses the current&#xA;  information of that object if it's in the public zone it was expected&#xA;  to be in; if it's no longer in that zone, or if the effect has moved&#xA;  it from a public zone to a hidden zone, the effect uses the object's&#xA;  last known information. See rule 112.7a. If an ability states that an&#xA;  object does something, it's the object as it exists -- or as it most&#xA;  recently existed -- that does it, not the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the information from the game the Hydra's ability needs, is the number of counters on each creature who's counters are being doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-10-04T20:37:57.027" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T20:37:57.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13111" CreationDate="2013-10-04T20:45:57.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience with Legends of Andor is that it is primarily a &quot;puzzle&quot;.  Time is very limited, and you need to be very strategic about what actions you take in order to succeed.  I don't think most 5 year olds will have this level of analytic thinking yet.  So while your daughter can probably learn the available decisions and be able to choose ones she thinks are reasonable, you'll probably need to tweak the difficulty somewhat in order for her to feel comfortable making her own decisions and not constantly having them lead to failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-10-04T20:45:57.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13110" CreationDate="2013-10-05T02:01:59.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought into the game, I only purchased one of the Core Set (and the first Force Pack The Desolation of Hoth, but that is an aside...). I just wanted to try a new game. A few of the guys behind the counter at the hobby store mentioned more than one Core Set, but I just wanted a new game. I wasn't going to enter any major tournaments to start with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The great thing about the Core Set is you get a lot of cards right away, and you get playable decks. Four of them to be exact (Rebel, Jedi, Sith, and Imperial). You get a taste of the other two factions (Smugglers and Spies, and Scum and Villainy), but those are really fleshed out with decks in the Edge of Darkness set (and yes, I eventually bought that too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally have recommended to anyone getting into the game to start with those. Try it. See how you like it. Learn how it plays and how to build decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also bought the Force Packs as they have come out. Unlike the Core Set and the Deluxe Expansions, the Force Packs come with two of every objective set (except for the ones labeled &quot;only one in a deck&quot;). I have thought about purchasing an additional Core Set and an additional Edge of Darkness set to have doubles of certain cards. But I still haven't yet. Part of it is my budget. The other part is I purely play for fun with my wife and with my friends. I dont' play in cut throat tournaments. Now in my personal opinion, I think as more cards are released, the less likely it is that you &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to have two of every big set. More releases, means more cards to choose from, which means more variation in player deck constructions. So though it may once have been more important to have two of sets (especially when that was all there was), I think that is now lessened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, a lot of that is my opinion and personal experience, but that is what I would pitch to any new player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastActivityDate="2013-10-05T02:01:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-06T01:51:46.283" Score="30" ViewCount="24026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a couple of Pandemic games with 2, 3 and 4 players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my point of view, the game should be harder with only 2 players since it will be more difficult to get a medic and both players will have to stay virtually close to each other most of the time in order to share knowledge, therefore cover less ground. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, with more players, obviously the deck will run out faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience our group WIN/LOSE ratio is very similar and does not depend that much on the player count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it really harder with fewer players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-10-06T19:03:20.853" LastActivityDate="2017-12-07T07:14:31.030" Title="Is Pandemic harder with fewer players?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="401" CreationDate="2013-10-06T02:13:39.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Starting with corn (seat 3 and 4) seems to have a large advantage from stats, but this does not mean necessarily that the game is that unbalanced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this advantage, something close to a 50% extra comparing to seats 1 and 2, is accentuated by the fast the producing and shipping corn is an easier strategy to grasp and effective deliver. When playing with more experienced players the gap is probably not that wide. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to the Temple strategy on Tzolkin. It is not that the temple strategy is stronger but it is the easier thing to do without messing your game up, if you don't know what you are doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, for the new or casual Puerto Rico player, the 3rd seat is the best spot, followed close by the 4th. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5442672#5442672&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;topic&lt;/a&gt; on BGG has more stats and balancing suggestions with simulations. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5921" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T02:13:39.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2013-10-06T12:38:42.957" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main thing you lose with fewer players is maximum hand size, so you cannot hold as many cards at once. This can make it harder to get the cures if the right colours don't come up. However, it is generally easier to avoid outbreaks, since you only have 2 people you will tend to have the right person's turn faster after an epidemic. With 2 people you will need to choose your roles manually I think, since some roles, EG Dispatcher, are pretty worthless with only 2 people and some EG Medic are practically mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get the same number of player turns regardless of the number of players, since the starting cards is 2 for 4 players and 4 for 2 players. Trading cards seems about the same difficulty with 2 people as you have less turns to wait at the trading location, but less options for meeting up. Research stations make meeting up pretty easy as long as you can both build them near where you are. Or a Charter flight out of a city you hold will let you meet up anywhere to swap that second card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T12:38:42.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2013-10-06T19:54:38.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used this to create a prototype of my card game,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Print out cards on 6x4 photo paper (2 to a sheet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cut the cards out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sleeve with playing card sleeves (penny sleeves if you're saving money; HMC or Dragon Shield for easy shuffling)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2995" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T19:54:38.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11840" CreationDate="2013-10-06T23:21:54.560" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can be cut in two, there's no reason to keep them as one sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5827" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T23:21:54.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13121" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-06T23:24:14.043" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-06T23:24:14.043" LastActivityDate="2013-10-06T23:24:14.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13122" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-06T23:24:14.043" Score="0" Body="Ora et Labora is a game by Uwe Rosenberg and is regarded as the 3rd game of the &quot;Harvest Trilogy&quot;, after Agricola and Le Havre. It borrows many elements from the other two games. The game combines city-building, worker placement, and resource management elements, and is entirely deterministic." OwnerUserId="5827" LastEditorUserId="5827" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T01:29:49.223" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T01:29:49.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13136" CreationDate="2013-10-07T00:46:03.583" Score="1" ViewCount="478" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question could be asked for just about any strategy, but to make it &quot;not broad,&quot; I'll specify my strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I was planning to follow a development strategy. After placing my initial two settlements, I'll establish two more, and upgrade all four to cities, bringing me up to eight VPs. After that, I'll buy development cards and hope to get two more VPs directly, or possibly through the largest army. I've picked this strategy because it minimizes my need for brick and wood. With two new settlements, two new roads, and four upgrades to cities, my initial resource requirements look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 wood, 4 brick, 2 wool, 10 grain, 12 ore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I concentrate on sites that will get grain and ore what is a good way of making sure I obtain &quot;enough&quot; of the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I go for hexes that will get grain and ore with good numbers on the die such as six and eight, or at least five and nine, can I afford hexes where I get the others with fours and tens, or even threes and elevens, since I need proportionately less of them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have one settlement/city at a harbor, am I likely to generate enough of my &quot;good&quot; resources so I will be able to trade for the ones I need? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some development cards will give me two free roads. How helpful are these likely to be?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm assuming that if I take an early lead, others will be unwilling to trade with me. Am I being too pessimistic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T16:00:20.737" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T16:00:20.737" Title="For a given development strategy, how do you ensure enough secondary resources?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13124" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T03:34:20.447" Score="11" ViewCount="5060" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Muscle Sliver&lt;/a&gt;s, so they're both 3/3 creatures. Now if they attack at the same time, and I kill one Muscle Sliver, would the remaining Muscle Sliver continue to stay at 3/3 for the attack phase, or would it instantly become a 2/2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T03:15:57.400" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T09:15:46.103" Title="Sliver abilites and when they affect the Slivers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13124" CreationDate="2013-10-07T03:43:39.727" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;As soon as one of the Muscle Slivers leaves the battlefield, its ability disappears, leaving the other sliver smaller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static abilities on permanents create continuous effects, functioning as long as the permanent is on the battlefield, no longer and no shorter. They are not activated; they simply &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt;. That's why they're written as statements of fact: &quot;All Sliver creatures get +1/+1.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, your opponent could block one of your 3/3 Muscle Slivers with a 3/3, and one with a 2/3. All the creatures deal damage to each other simultaneously. State-based actions are then checked, and the two 3/3s and the 2/3 have taken three damage and die. The first Muscle Sliver is now gone, so the remaining one is now a 2/2. State-based actions are checked again, and that sliver has two damage marked on it and now only has two toughness, so it dies as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, this doesn't affect the amount of damage dealt, since all the damage was dealt at the same time, before anything died. So when you ask &quot;does it stay at 3/3 for the attack phase?&quot; the answer is... yes and no. It's still a 3/3 when it deals damage, yes. But it gets smaller immediately after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T03:52:30.230" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T03:52:30.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13128" CreationDate="2013-10-07T16:23:23.447" Score="6" ViewCount="4874" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prophet%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; out (which gives all my creatures flash), can I use the bestow ability of my enchantment creatures during my opponents turn? For example, can I bestow &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373735&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thassa's Emissary&lt;/a&gt; on one of my creatures, during my opponents turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bestow text for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast this card for its bestow cost, it's an Aura spell with&#xA;enchant creature. It becomes a creature again if it's not attached to&#xA;a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if I do not have enough devotion for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thassa%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Sea&quot;&gt;Thassa, God of the Sea&lt;/a&gt; to be a creature, can I use flash to cast her during my opponents turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thassa's devotion related text, for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your devotion to blue is less than five, Thassa isn't a&#xA;creature. (Each Blue in the mana costs of permanents you control&#xA;counts toward your devotion to blue.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:39:18.070" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:39:18.070" Title="Prophet of Kruphix: Can I flash Bestow?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2013-10-07T16:37:11.420" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I've found that it's easier with fewer players.  My husband and I play two-player games with six epidemics and win about half our games, but when we play with two other (competent) players five epidemics gives us that win rate and six is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While, with fewer players, you have fewer roles in the game, that's offset by not having so many other actions between your turns (that can completely change the board and thus your plans).  Some roles work better the more turns that role gets, e.g. dumpster-diving abilities and once-per-turn special actions.  You'll run through the deck at the same rate no matter how many players there are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The medic is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; necessary, and sometimes having that role in a two-player game is counter-productive.  Remember tha the goal is curing diseases; it's easy for the medic to get so pre-occupied with the board that he doesn't contribute enough to cures.  Medic as one of four roles is great; medic as one of two requires restraint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our games we deal two roles to each player and let the player choose one (consultation is allowed).  That hasn't hurt our two-player games even though the medic will only be an option about a third of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T16:37:11.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13126" CreationDate="2013-10-07T16:42:20.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, for both. Prophet of Kruphix allows you to cast &quot;Creature Cards&quot; as though they had flash. Thassa's Emissary IS a Creature Card. It's NOT a &quot;Creature&quot;, as a &quot;Creature&quot; is a permanent on the battlefield, which it isn't while it's in your hand or on the stack. But it IS a &quot;Creature Card&quot;, and that's all that matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See rules for Bestow, noting that Bestow ability that allows you to cast it as an Aura is a static ability of the card itself, not of a creature or aura permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.102. Bestow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.102a Bestow represents two static abilities, &lt;strong&gt;one that functions while the card with bestow is on the stack&lt;/strong&gt; and another that functions&#xA;    both while it's on the stack and while it's on the battlefield.&#xA;    &quot;Bestow [cost]&quot; means &quot;You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather&#xA;    than its mana cost.&quot; and &quot;If you chose to pay this spell's bestow&#xA;    cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature. These&#xA;    effects last until one of two things happens: this spell has an&#xA;    illegal target as it resolves or the permanent this spell becomes,&#xA;    becomes unattached.&quot; Paying a card's bestow cost follows the rules for&#xA;    paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-10-07T17:08:03.290" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T17:08:03.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8451" CreationDate="2013-10-07T17:12:14.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Blackwood convention is often misused, or perhaps just misunderstood. The bidder needs (among other things) to be sure that there are twelve tricks available; normally this means the trump suit is 5-4 or better (my dog-eared Bridge manual says &quot;4NT is not definitely Blackwood unless a trump suit has been agreed&quot; but that is probably too extreme nowadays).  If your partner knew that the contract would be in spades, the singleton is a minus rather than a plus, so you don't have the points for slam.  There could be a slam elsewhere, of course. in which case the two 'phantom points' could reappear; but she has to bid a suit (probably 4C) before you can agree the level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T17:12:14.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13133" CreationDate="2013-10-07T20:25:03.160" Score="7" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The Setup:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my opponent's turn. He has an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt; on the field (1/1). He declares his Elvish Mystic as an attacker, then activates his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghor-Clan%20Rampager&quot;&gt;Ghor-Clan Rampager&lt;/a&gt;'s Bloodrush ability from his hand, with the target being his attacking Elvish Mystic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;My Response:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wring%20Flesh&quot;&gt;Wring Flesh&lt;/a&gt; in my hand and the mana to cast it. I target his Elvish Mystic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Outcomes/Question:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my instant does not take precedence, Elvish Mystic becomes a 5/5 from Bloodrush, then drops to a 2/4 from Wring Flesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my instant takes precedence, this means the Elvish Mystic ends up in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to the Ghor-Clan Rampager? Does Ghor-Clan Rampager still cast Bloodrush (on an invalid target) and get discarded, or does it remain in his hand without activating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5936" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T04:06:40.027" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T10:30:39.767" Title="Can Bloodrush be countered with an instant that destroys attacking creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13132" CreationDate="2013-10-07T20:27:15.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The blood rush card fizzles and goes to the graveyard.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question in the title: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your understanding is correct. Since your Wring Flesh is on the stack above the bloodrush card, then it happens before the bloodrush is applied. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the card's bloodrush ability was activated, it is discarded. The first part of the bloodrush ability says the card is to be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T10:30:39.767" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T10:30:39.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13134" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-07T20:48:48.533" Score="7" ViewCount="1788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a picture of an old advertisement for Warhammer 40,000.&#xA;It shows &quot;ROBOTS&quot;, which resemble Terminators or Space Marines somewhat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a copy of the image:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zSAyo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which army are these robots from?  Can they still be fielded in modern 40K?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2221" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T19:53:39.313" Title="What army are these Warhammer 40K Robots from?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2013-10-07T23:28:27.087" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest factors that makes it easier with fewer players is that you can organise the cards you need to get together much more quickly - the 5 cards you need for a cure will be distributed between 2 hands rather than 3 or 4, and if you have the right combination of roles/event cards you can transfer those cards in 1 or 2 player-turns (and hence only having to worry about the infector and epidemics twice) instead of needing to co-ordinate across 3, 4 or more turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2013-10-07T23:28:27.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13123" CreationDate="2013-10-08T00:59:59.510" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no sure fire path to victory in Settlers, since there will be some games where a six is never rolled and a twelve is rolled four times in ten turns.  Nevertheless there are some principles to follow when playing Catan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Watch the resources you don't have. Know who is holding them and who is not holding them.  Often times the entire board will be short on a resource and at other times there will be an abundance of something you don't have.  Look for trades when there's lots out there.  Look to soldier when there isn't.  Managing your acquisition of your most limited resources is the most important skill in Settlers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't waste soldiers.  Hold your soldiers and only use them when they can provide you with a big advantage.  If you have no need for the resource that the thief is sitting on then don't worry about it unless it's worth multiples for you.  Unplayed soldiers are valuable bargaining material. You may be able to get a good trade by threatening others.  Use your judgment though, some players won't take kindly to threats. Ignore this rule if another player may snipe largest army. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try and create jackpots.  Having a jackpot number makes you less of a target when you don't have your number come up and allows you do almost always do something when your number does come up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4-1 trades can be worth it, but only do so after exhausting diplomatic/military options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never hold the resources which are scarce to you.  It's better to burn the sheep on dev cards, the brick and wood on roads than to try and save them for another round to get a settlement.  Inevitably, if you risk holding them, you will be thieved or lose some other form of opportunity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be short of resources in every game of Settlers.  You can't have good incomes of all the five resource types, so it's important to understand your current game situation and how to maximise your advantages, while minimising your weaknesses.  Development cards are excellent for papering over the gaps in your civilisation.  Brick/wood players are trying to out-expand their opponents.  Wheat/ore players are trying to advance their civilisations so quickly that they can out-produce their opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T00:59:59.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13141" CreationDate="2013-10-08T01:53:30.687" Score="3" ViewCount="1375" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text on the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20the%20Wild%20Hunt&quot;&gt;Master of the Wild Hunt&lt;/a&gt; card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, put a 2/2 green Wolf creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap: Tap all untapped Wolf creatures you control. Each Wolf tapped this way deals damage equal to its power to target creature. That creature deals damage equal to its power divided as its controller chooses among any number of those Wolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text states that each wolf deals damage.  This implies that there are multiple damage sources.  Can all of this damage be prevented at once, or need it be prevented from each source individually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unbreathing%20Horde&quot;&gt;Unbreathing Horde&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unbreathing Horde enters the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it for each other Zombie you control and each Zombie card in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Unbreathing Horde would be dealt damage, prevent that damage and remove a +1/+1 counter from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple wolves deal damage to Unbreathing Horde simultaneously per &lt;strong&gt;Master of the Wild Hunt's&lt;/strong&gt; activated ability, does it remove one +1/+1 counter per wolf, or just one +1/+1 counter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5939" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T16:35:44.210" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:35:44.210" Title="Does Master of the Wild Hunt deal damage multiple times?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:33:56.597" Score="5" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I were playing Magic the Gathering when he tried to summon &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghor%20Clan%20Rampager&quot;&gt;Ghor Clan Rampager&lt;/a&gt;. He used all his mana to cast him, but in response I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Twiddle&quot;&gt;Twiddle&lt;/a&gt; and tapped one of his lands. What would happen to his creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5941" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T04:55:21.460" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T09:38:21.350" Title="What happens to a spell if an oppenent runs out of mana while casting it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13146" CreationDate="2013-10-08T03:49:38.283" Score="5" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a href=&quot;http://ascensiongame.com/wp-content/uploads/cards/Hedron-Link-Device.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hedron Link Device&lt;/a&gt; is in play, if I also play &lt;a href=&quot;http://ascensiongame.com/wp-content/uploads/cards/Avatar-Golem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avatar Golem&lt;/a&gt;, is the original faction of a construct (e.g. Void, Enlightened, Lifebound) still applicable, or is it now removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is in comparison to MTG rules, which normally stipulate &quot;... in addition to its other types&quot; for effects like this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="901" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T13:56:57.607" Title="Does Hedron Link Device remove the original faction from constructs?" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13138" CreationDate="2013-10-08T04:57:55.270" Score="20" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to a spell if an oppenent runs out of mana while casting it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's impossible. There is no chance to spend mana between the point where one starts casting a spell and the point where one pays for it.&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but in response I played Twiddle and tapped one of his lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;In response to&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;after it has been cast but before it resolves&amp;quot;. When Ghor Clan Rampager is cast, the lands have already been tapped and the mana has already been produced.&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Or did you mean in response to activating the land's ability? One cannot do anything in response to activating a mana source as it does not use the stack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to cast Twiddle before he casts Ghor Clan Rampager (which means before he even mentions he's going to cast it), but then he could just tap the land for mana in response to you casting Twiddle, so it would have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The steps to casting a spell or activating an ability are:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2a) Place card on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2b-d) Make choices, including targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2e) Check if spell can legally be cast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2f) Determine total cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2g) Activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2h) Pay the previously determined cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2024-02-22T09:38:21.350" LastActivityDate="2024-02-22T09:38:21.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13137" CreationDate="2013-10-08T05:15:59.447" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text states that each wolf deals damage. This implies that there are multiple damage sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is correct, but it's not relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20the%20Wild%20Hunt&quot;&gt;Master of the Wild Hunt&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability targeting an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unbreathing%20Horde&quot;&gt;Unbreathing Horde&lt;/a&gt;, at most one counter would end up being removed no matter how many wolves you have.  All the wolves deal their damage simultaneously, so the Horde is only dealt damage once, even if the damage comes from multiple sources. Unbreathing Horde's replaces the receiving of damage, not the receiving of damage by a source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;If Unbreathing Horde would be dealt damage,&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;If Unbreathing Horde would be dealt damage by a source,&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantom%20Nishoba&quot;&gt;Phantom Nishoba&lt;/a&gt; has a ruling confirming this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-09T15:21:36.947" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T15:21:36.947" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13138" CreationDate="2013-10-08T06:29:02.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapping mana doesn't go on the stack, so therefore you cannot react to it and tap his land before he creates mana off it. The casting cost of his spell is determined at the time of casting, and before putting the spell on the stack (casting) he has to pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has to tap his lands (for mana), something you cannot react to, then cast his spell. But the mana is already in his pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What probably happened (I see it a lot). He put his creature on the battlefield and he wanted to tap his lands, but you wanted to react to it. It should be the other way around, first tap for mana, then cast the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If somehow you got priority before he taps his lands (for example as a reaction on another spell), you can tap his lands with Twiddle. But even then, when you target his land with your spell, he can react to it and tap it himself (for mana).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-10-08T12:36:09.863" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T12:36:09.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13138" CreationDate="2013-10-08T09:04:00.177" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer by @ikegami correctly describes the specific situation in this question. For the more general question (as stated in the headline), the answer is that if a player finds he is unable to pay any costs (e.g. because he miscalculated the mana available), the game will be restored to the point before the spell casting was started, see comprehensive rule 601.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T09:04:00.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13820" CreationDate="2013-10-08T10:11:50.747" Score="6" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Legend of Drizzt board game, cavern edge tiles contain two spaces where you could move.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the cavern edge tile count as its own tile, or does it count as part of the tile it is connected to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="712" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T00:46:29.933" Title="Do cavern edge tiles count as their own tile in the Legend of Drizzt board game?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13134" CreationDate="2013-10-08T11:53:09.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are from the bygone days of Rouge Trader, when you could field Imperial Robots.  GW's fluff and art direction where less mature at this point and you got lots of random stuff like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fluff wise the technology has been lost and/or declared heresy by the Imperium for millennium. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/The_Horus_Heresy/Mechanicum/Mechanicum_Troops/CASTELLAX_BATTLE_AUTOMATA.html&quot;&gt;But Forge World brought them back.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T11:53:09.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13139" CreationDate="2013-10-08T13:56:57.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original faction is still applicable. Note the exact wording of Hedron Link Device. &quot;You &lt;strong&gt;may treat&lt;/strong&gt; all Constructs as Mechana Constructs.&quot; Both the &quot;May&quot; and the &quot;Treat&quot; here mean that the original faction is still applicable. First off, it is &quot;May&quot;, so you can just choose to not count it as Mechana at the moment if it will make your Golem better. Second, it is &quot;treat as&quot;, which is not the same as &quot;becomes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison to MTG rules, some cards have the ability &quot;You may cast creature cards as though they had flash.&quot; Note that this does NOT give your creature cards flash. It just lets you cast them like they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T13:56:57.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13149" CreationDate="2013-10-08T18:18:41.733" Score="12" ViewCount="2038" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Bit of Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently trying to organize a comprehensive rule book for a board game I have been designing for some time now that is about to go into a testing phase. This being my first board game I've run into a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how best to structure the rule book. For instance, I'll be trying to explain how a piece moves in relation to the kind of tile it is on. Because in my game different pieces do different things depending on how they are positioned, this is quite complex. What ends up happening is I don't know whether to put the information under the type of piece, or under the type of tile, or under the specific situation in which the rules apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel if put the information in one place or the other it will leave the players confused, and if I put it in multiple places the book could get kind of lengthy, and scare potential players away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Potatoes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you guys do when you make your comprehensive instruction booklets to avoid this problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5913" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-08-07T12:42:06.093" Title="Organizing a rule book" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2013-10-08T18:51:32.647" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;One issue is staring at this blank canvas of a rule book and not knowing where to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find out where to start, first realize exactly what you're trying to accomplish:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tell someone how to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might suggest you show the game to a few friends, preferably the most interactive ones. If they ask questions, then when you explain it to another friend, you have the insight of what they may be thinking and the ability to answer just what's on their mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will learn exactly what to write by sheer redundancy of explaining the rules over and over, and subconsciously you'll build a structure of your explanation that you could use while writing your rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps you getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5947" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T18:51:32.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4948" CreationDate="2013-10-08T19:18:57.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One Solution would be to start with index cards. No need to look fancy until you are sure you are happy with what you have got. (this could depend on the kind of card game. Like if you are using a game that can use standard playing cards then go with the obvious, however if you are making a trading card game or something then this solution could work for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have your cards and whatever extra stuff such as dice and what not that you need then gather up a few people and give them a rough overview of your game. Once you pique their interests bring them to a place where they can play, give them a set of rules. It's important that you don't play with them while they test it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of playing, keep a notebook with you and note down different details about how the players interact with your game. What makes them frustrated?, do they understand the rules?, are they enjoying themselves?, do they quit?, if so why?, and what not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also make the players feel that they can stop playing at any time so that they don't continue to play just out of respect for you, or out of the feeling of being trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you take notes also keep in mind the personalty of those you have playing. Are they your intended audience for your game? If so are you appealing to your audience? Also if they are not your intended audience do they find interest in your game? If so how can you maybe expand play to include their style and maybe broaden your market?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you get these notes down be sure to look over your game and make revisions where necessary. Once revisions are made try to have a play test with the same players and see if you have improved the experience at all. Try the game with different people, and see what comes out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5913" LastEditorUserId="6350" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T18:17:55.077" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T18:17:55.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2013-10-08T20:46:19.327" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer BLUF (bottom line up front): first tell me the objective of the game (in one sentence). Tell me how to win. Tell me how / when the game ends. From that tell me more about the turn sequence. Describe what a turn looks like. Describe my options. Show me examples with pictures and special cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5585" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T20:46:19.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2013-10-08T21:15:39.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are you trying to write? Are you trying to write a comprehensive rule book? Or are you trying to write a quick start guide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going to write a quick start guide, you should walk a player through a simple but representative session of your game. At the very minimum, you need the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting up the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first round (and/or regular triggers)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Typical events that may occur on any given round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Win conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how similar these are, they might be combined or incredibly short. For example, the first round might be &quot;each player does the same as first player, going clockwise.&quot; But it might also include &quot;at the end of each round, roll the die to determine a new monster to attack the heroes&quot; or some other thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By walking a player through a game, you clearly define the things that are in and out of the players' control. Your objective with this guide is to get as close as you can to a video of an actual game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're trying to write a rule book, this is a different beast. A rule book is going to be very dry and uninviting, but will be very clear about everything it says. A rule book should contain&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prologue about the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Definition of each game element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detailed turn structure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legal (and illegal) actions allowed by the players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legal (and illegal) interactions between each element&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specific cases that came up during playtesting&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glossary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very least, you need to be able to tell the reader exactly what the purpose of whatever document they're reading is. Don't call something a rulebook if it's a quick start guide, and vice versa. You might not even want to include a rulebook: just make the comprehensive rules available online - they're easier to update that way, and as long as people aren't forced to go online to play the game, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-10-08T21:15:39.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2013-10-09T13:10:54.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Complementary to some of the advice above, I generally follow a two-step process, especially when I don't have first pick: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) see which resource is going to be rarest in the game, by the numbers;&#xA;(b) pick the most advantageous point on the best number hex for that resource. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm going last-first-round, first-second-round, this is especially powerful; if there's a single resource that has something like a 2-11-5 mix of numbers, I can completely monopolize the 5 with my dual placement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5937" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T13:10:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13155" CreationDate="2013-10-09T16:45:19.947" Score="6" ViewCount="13359" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the card game &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;War&lt;/a&gt;, what happens when a player plays their last card as part of the war?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When their last card is the first card of the war (face up), before the three face down cards are dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When their last card is one of the three face down cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5949" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:20:48.670" LastActivityDate="2021-08-21T02:58:20.300" Title="In the card game &quot;War&quot;, what happens when a player plays their final card in a War?" Tags="|war|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13154" CreationDate="2013-10-09T16:57:28.377" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked Wikipedia article has this to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most descriptions of War are unclear about what happens if a player&#xA;  runs out of cards during a war. In some variants, that player&#xA;  immediately loses. In others, the player may play the last card in&#xA;  their deck as their face-up card for the remainder of the war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-10-09T16:57:28.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T02:20:41.827" Score="3" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20the%20Wild%20Hunt&quot;&gt;Master of the Wild Hunt&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...] {T}: Tap all untapped Wolf creatures you control. Each Wolf tapped this way deals damage equal to its power to target creature. That creature deals damage equal to its power divided as its controller chooses among any number of those Wolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way that MotWH works is that you choose a single target creature, and when it resolves you tap all untapped wolves you control and they deal damage to the single target creature amd that creature divides its damage among the wolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How would you word the ability if you wanted each wolf to be able to target a different creature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a template already exist for this functionality?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Raiding%20Party&quot;&gt;Raiding Party&lt;/a&gt; allows you to choose plains (not exactly targeting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...] Sacrifice an Orc: Each player may tap any number of untapped white creatures he or she controls. For each creature tapped this way, that player chooses up to two Plains. Then destroy all Plains that weren't chosen this way by any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Inferno&quot;&gt;Living Inferno&lt;/a&gt; is only a single creature that is splitting its damage (the wolves would each target a single creature, but their might be multiple wolves)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Living Inferno deals damage equal to its power divided as you choose among any number of target creatures. Each of those creatures deals damage equal to its power to Living Inferno.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T16:58:09.163" Title="How would Master of the Wild Hunt be worded if it targeted multiple creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2013-10-10T04:08:04.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great setups are nice, but are secondary to TACTICS. All placements have advantages and disadvantages. Generally, I don't like grouping bombs much in the first 2 rows because it impedes movement of your troops, likely will only kill lower ranked pieces, and gives away the location of your bombs too soon. Obviously you shouldn't NOT ever put bombs in the first 2 rows, just keep it to a minimum IMHO. Also, I save my Scouts for the end of the game by keeping them in the back rows. You will want them when you are at the end of the game and you have NO IDEA where to attack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5952" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T04:08:04.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13156" CreationDate="2013-10-10T04:20:27.373" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to do it is to change the operation slightly. Instead of having each wolf deal damage, have the lord deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Tap all untapped Wolf creatures you control. ~ deals damage equal to the total power of those Wolves divided between up to X target creatures, where X is the number of Wolves tapped in this way. Those creatures deal damage equal to their power divided as their controllers choose among any number of those Wolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a functional change, for example you could have a black wolf, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Carion%20Howler&quot;&gt;Carion Howler&lt;/a&gt;, and your opponent could have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkwatch%20Elves&quot;&gt;Darkwatch Elves&lt;/a&gt;, who has protection from black, on the board. Under my change, the damage from the howler could be dealt to the elves. Currently, it couldn't (even though the Master does the targeting, the wolf does the damaging). I think the simplicity of it allows for such a sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-10T13:38:36.550" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T13:38:36.550" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13105" CreationDate="2013-10-10T08:13:17.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to find an official answer, but here's an answer on behalf of the BGG community answers &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1050828/what-happens-if-i-must-encounter-the-villain-becau&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that my latter intuition was probably correct. When you reveal the next card, all the effects trigger, including if it was a villain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, in this case, &lt;strong&gt;option 1 is correct&lt;/strong&gt;. I should attempt to temporarily close locations and then attempt to defeat the villain, just as if the villain were encountered in normal play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T08:13:17.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11310" CreationDate="2013-10-10T15:10:10.117" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group just uses the little plastic bags that come with the game and put everything for one player to start in one of them. We have the starting hex, the ships, the populations cubes, etc. all in the bag. We only set up the rightmost population cube. We can get started in as little as 5 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T15:10:10.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-10T15:15:22.823" Score="9" ViewCount="23784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to delve deeper into &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12765/how-can-i-do-better-than-chance-in-uno&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; to discover exactly how effective certain strategies would have on your win percentage. This led me to this Stanford Computer Science project that pits students' individual &lt;a href=&quot;http://nifty.stanford.edu/2012/davies-uno/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UNO strategies&lt;/a&gt; against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular UNO simulator has some issues that I have corrected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A proper pseudo-random number generator (PRNG-&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.gmu.edu/~sean/research/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mersenne Twister&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Support for 2-15 players&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scoring for wins instead of points&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Proper rules implementation of initial special cards&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hhandling of draw cards when going out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I opted not to add a &quot;catch&quot;/bluff mechanic when playing Wild-Draw4, so those can only be played when you don't have a matching color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have implemented some basic strategies that you will be playing against:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play random legal&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play most color&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play most point&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play highest rank in most color&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Call random&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Call color I have&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Call color most&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Call points most&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These strategies will face off in 100,000+ games multiple times to get a Confidence Interval (CI) for how effective the strategy is. (&lt;strong&gt;I am open on direction of how to accomplish this best.&lt;/strong&gt; Should it be a 4-player game, with 2 copies of the strategy seated non-adjacent to each other (ABAB)?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: what is your Uno strategy? Be specific: I'm going to write a program to execute your strategy, and since computers are dumb like me, instructions need to be specific. (If they are not, I will post comments for you to clarify)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to think about in your answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What card do you play next? Do you try to get down to one color or number, or always keep as much variety as possible in your hand? If you have a pair of 0's and a 9, do you play the 9 to reduce your point count, or play a 0 to keep up some variety in your hand? Do you play Skip, Reverse, Draw Two, Wild, and Wild Draw Four early or late, or does it depend on how many cards other people have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What do you do if you must change color? Do you call a color with the most cards, most points, least variety in ranks? Do you think about what opponents might have, or only consider your own hand? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does your strategy change if someone is very close to winning the entire match, i.e. somebody's close to 500 points? How close to 500 do they have to be for you to change how you play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does your strategy change if you're losing the hand? How do you decide if you're losing? (Do you start ditching the high-point cards like Wild and Draw Two?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about answering all of those questions, but if you change your play depending on circumstances around the table, please mention it in your answer. Being precise helps me program a strategy that matches what you do, but if you cannot, just give me a general idea and I will post pseudo code of what the computer will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't worry about having the absolute best answer.&lt;/strong&gt; I will program your strategy, and edit your answer to show its actual win-rate against other strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="25042" LastEditDate="2018-09-14T13:02:53.147" LastActivityDate="2018-09-14T13:02:53.147" Title="What specific strategies have the highest win:loss ratio in Uno?" Tags="|statistics|uno|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-10-10T15:19:40.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We let players who lose team up with other players. As more players get eliminated our teams get larger and the game gets more intense. As a bonus this preserves all the mechanics of the original game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T15:19:40.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2013-10-10T15:23:46.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we play we let +2's stack. It makes the game much more fun when draws are running around the table and one unlucky person picks up 12 cards. We also reduce the penalty for not saying Uno to one card because we always forget that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T15:23:46.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2013-10-10T15:41:35.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play the largest number I can and save my draws, skips, and reverses for when they can be used against a winning opponent. I really don't worry about number variety. However, I try to keep a low number of high value cards in my hand, namely reverses, wilds, and skips, in that order, so if someone manages to win I don't give them too many points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;call color: No Strategy (color i have?)&#xA;&#xA;play: &#xA;if hand has X or more Special Cards (SC), &#xA;    play SC(if possible): priority Reverse, Wild, Skip, (Wild Draw-4, Draw-2), 9-0&#xA;else if opponent has Y or fewer cards&#xA;    if opponent next and hand has Draw-2 or Skip (or Wild Draw-4)&#xA;        play Draw-2, Skip, (or Wild Draw-4)&#xA;    else if opponent last and hand has Reverse and (Draw-2 or Wild Draw-4)&#xA;        play Reverse&#xA;    else&#xA;        play 9-0, Draw-2, Skip, Reverse, (Wild, Wild Draw-4)&#xA;else&#xA;    play 9-0, Draw-2, Skip, Reverse, (Wild, Wild Draw-4)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-10T17:21:30.517" LastActivityDate="2013-10-10T17:21:30.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13124" CreationDate="2013-10-10T21:36:37.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to this one is timing and the flow of events from one game phase to the other. During the Combat Phase, there are steps of Declare Attackers, Declare Blockers, and Combat Damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The slivers are 3/3 creatures for as long as both of them are in play. However, damage counters remain until the Cleanup Phase at the end of the turn, after the Second Main Phase. So, during the declare attackers/declare blockers phase, they are both 3/3 creatures. Then, they are assigned the damage from their respective blockers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one takes 3 damage, and one takes 2 damage, it resolves like this:&#xA;The sliver with 3 damage counters dies as a state-based action, resulting in the loss of its static +1/+1 global bonus to slivers. This makes the other sliver a 2/2. Since it still has 2 damage counters on it (and will, until the Cleanup Phase), it ALSO now dies as a state-based action. &lt;strong&gt;All of this happens AFTER damage is assigned, following the Declare Attackers/Declare Blockers Phases.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes. For the attack phase, they are both 3/3 creatures, and each deal 3 damage, regardless of whether one or both of them would die as a result of that combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2581" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T09:15:46.103" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T09:15:46.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13170" CreationDate="2013-10-11T03:50:26.143" Score="4" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The players are contestants trapped in a labyrinth on an alien spaceship, racing to find the exit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Locations are square cards that can be rotated during the game.  At the beginning of the game all locations are upside-down, getting revealed as the players explore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some locations players can find items that they can use to help themselves or hinder the other contestants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a rather new game, created some time in the last five years, I think.  The designer lives in California.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2013-10-11T05:36:52.217" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T05:51:42.877" Title="Identify a game: escape from a labyrinth of square cards on an alien spaceship" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13168" CreationDate="2013-10-11T05:16:15.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you're thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/97655/space-maze&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Space Maze&lt;/a&gt;?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FZbGz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T05:16:15.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13168" CreationDate="2013-10-11T05:51:42.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds even more like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/137478/alien-labyrinth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alien Labyrinth&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eYldR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T05:51:42.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8622" CreationDate="2013-10-11T14:29:15.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own all of the Ascension blocks and personally play CotG the most since the minimal mechanics allow it to be more accessible to my wife.  I find it as a good introduction into the world of Ascension and then once she becomes more comfortable with it, I'll pull out the other blocks :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2432" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T14:29:15.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11768" CreationDate="2013-10-11T15:43:21.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A more devious way to solve this problem without changing any rules would be like in the game of risk. When we play we try to trap players up against the borders of the stronger enemy players borders. at this point we pile up troops on their border to contain them, and offer them peace if they agree to invade the larger players continents  thus reducing the number of troops needed to hold up the fronts allowing more aggressive play in other areas. this allows the other player a goal to fight for and you can help decrease the numbers of the larger player in that zone to allow them to more easily push with fewer armies, also allowing you to keep them from owning their own continent. at the end of the game the largest player just mops up all the smaller players and then its over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing we tend to do with house rules is we would allow people to continue drawing cards in risk. this allows them to continue making matches and gaining troops that can be used to break out of a hard place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have also been known to allow losers to collect a small amount of armies per turn and every time its supposed to be their turn the roll the dice. if they get double sixes they are allowed to attack any space on the board in an attempt to weasel their way back into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5913" LastActivityDate="2013-10-11T15:43:21.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13174" CreationDate="2013-10-12T03:00:46.327" Score="6" ViewCount="2780" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's with someone who is ESL with limited vocabulary and never played Scrabble before with you being a native speaker who played Scrabble lots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T18:54:07.130" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T03:44:07.650" Title="What is a fair Scrabble handicap" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2013-10-12T19:57:57.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start at 200 points. (To make sure they win the first game.) Every game they win, until you win, subtract 10 points from the handicap. After you win once, reduce handicap by 5 pts every time they win 3 (or 2, decide with your opponent) times running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Hidden assumption - Opponent is a competitive Type-A personality who really wants to improve their vocabulary, and is also doing crosswords a few times a week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T01:53:38.373" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T01:53:38.373" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13186" CreationDate="2013-10-12T22:04:07.390" Score="1" ViewCount="1796" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Libertalia, the character card &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1618012/libertalia?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Preacher&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard all booty tiles but one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you discard booty tiles from the ship, from your den, from every den, or some other variation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An official FAQ, or designer response is what I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-12T22:26:29.283" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T03:46:09.790" Title="Does the Preacher affect the Booty/Loot on the ship or in a den?" Tags="|libertalia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-12T22:34:26.010" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Libertalia, the character card &lt;strong&gt;Merchant&lt;/strong&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard two identical booty tiles to gain 3 doubloons, or 3 identical booty tiles to gain 5 doubloons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is the ability mandatory?&lt;/strong&gt; (I.e. If you had 2 chests and 3 treasure maps, would you have to discard at least two of one type?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules note that booty tiles in your den remain hidden until needed. If you don't discard any identical booty tiles, are you required to reveal all your tiles to prove you have no duplicates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An official FAQ, or designer response is what I am looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T17:04:11.443" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T02:31:17.317" Title="Is the Merchant ability mandatory if you have two identical tiles?" Tags="|libertalia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T16:31:11.983" Score="0" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm attacking with creatures that give off abilities and the other person blocks and kills the creature does its ability die off with the creature at that same moment leaving the others creatures without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5965" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T17:23:26.840" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T17:28:31.893" Title="End of abilities given off by creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2013-10-15T16:46:07.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13177" CreationDate="2013-10-13T17:19:10.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Give off abilities&amp;quot; is not clear. It helps if you use proper jargon or at least an example. I believe you are talking about continuous effects created by static abilities such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wizened%20Cenn&quot;&gt;Wizened Cenn&lt;/a&gt;'s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects created by static abilities take effect the moment the object on which they reside enters the battlefield, and they end the moment that object leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wizened%20Cenn&quot;&gt;Wizened Cenn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Amrou%20Seekers&quot;&gt;Amrou Seekers&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and your opponent deals 2 damage to each of your creature. This marks two damage on both your creatures. This kills off your Cenn, which reverts your Seekers to 2/2, which kills them off too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-13T17:28:31.893" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T17:28:31.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2013-10-13T17:49:38.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the excuses out of the way early: I don't play much Uno at all, and when we do play we typically aim to win a hand, rather than keeping score over several hands.  My strategy doesn't take any account of how near to 500 a player is, but presumably you should, as in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pig_%28dice_game%29#Optimal_play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;optimal Pig strategy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I aim to get rid of high value cards, but keep a wild card for the end. I also included a 'panic' strategy for when I've been hit with a Wild Draw-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting feature is that I occasionally choose to draw a card rather than play a wild card.  I'm not sure whether you're allowed to do this according to the official rules, but we allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Notation:&#xA;P - Previous opponent&#xA;N - Next opponent&#xA;O - Opposite opponent&#xA;M - Me&#xA;C(X) - The number of cards in player X's hand&#xA;min(C) - The number of cards in the leading player's hand&#xA;&#xA;Call:&#xA;If I don't only have black cards left:&#xA;    Filter out colours I don't have&#xA;# Vaguely try to annoy other people&#xA;Name the one I have seen the most of so far (including my current hand)&#xA;Tie break by colour I have most of, then most recently played&#xA;If this is the first turn and I've only been dealt black cards, then pick red because it's my favourite.&#xA;&#xA;Play:&#xA;If min(C) &amp;lt;= C(M) / 2 and min(C) &amp;lt; C(M) - 3:&#xA;    # I'm about to be trounced - throw away high points&#xA;    Play +4, change colour, +2&#xA;    If C(P) &amp;gt; C(O):&#xA;        Play change direction, skip a turn, 9-0&#xA;    Else:&#xA;        Play skip a turn, change direction, 9-0&#xA;Else if I have more than one black card left:&#xA;    # Try to save a black card for the end&#xA;    Play +4, change colour&#xA;Else if I have more than one +2 or C(N) &amp;lt; 3:&#xA;    # Very occasionally try to save a +2 in case there's one left over on top of the deck&#xA;    Play +2&#xA;Play skip turn, +2, change direction, 9-0, +4&#xA;If min(C) &amp;gt; 2 and min(C) &amp;gt; C(M) - 1:&#xA;    # I've got a wild card, and there's not much chance I won't get to play it&#xA;    Choose to draw a card&#xA;Play change colour&#xA;&#xA;Additional 'strategies' that presumably aren't relevant in the AI tester:&#xA;If I play my second to last card call &quot;Uno&quot;.&#xA;If an opponent fails to do this then point it out at the appropriate moment.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2013-10-13T17:49:38.127" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13180" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T18:21:18.863" Score="2" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am asking this question because I have rarely seen this striking phenomenon addressed in other questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &quot;interaction &quot;effects, I'm referring to the fact that if you buy a production building such as a small sugar mill, you get one victory point (VP) and if you buy the guild hall, you get 4 VPs, and 1+4=5 VP. But if you buy them both in tandem, you get the aforementioned 5 VPs, plus a bonus VP (the interaction effect), for a total of 6 VP. Likewise, if you buy a &quot;violet&quot; (non-production) building plus the city hall, you get (1-4) VPs &quot;standalone&quot; for each violet building, four for city hall, and one bonus VP for each violet building (the interaction term).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do such synergies cause people to think, &quot;I'm going to &quot;max out&quot; on production or violet buildings and buy the guild hall or city hall, respectively?&quot; Or the reverse, I'm going to buy the guild hall/city hall ASAP and &quot;max out on production/violet buildings afterwards? And would a production-oriented person who has bought a guild hall think, &quot;My main opponent has a lot of violet VPs, so I'd better buy city hall before he does to deprive him/her of those &quot;interaction&quot; VP's even though city hall is worth only 4 VPs to me?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are there better uses for your resources than the ones I've described above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T03:32:27.307" Title="Do &quot;interaction&quot; effects cause people to buy buildings in tandem in Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-13T22:59:41.397" Score="3" ViewCount="2530" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which game came first?  According to Wikipedia, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uno_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uno&lt;/a&gt; was invented in 1971, but I cannot find anything giving a date for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Last_Card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Last Card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5967" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T07:50:04.347" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T07:50:04.347" Title="What came first? Last Card or Uno?" Tags="|uno|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13181" CreationDate="2013-10-14T00:03:59.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A contributor, Mark Alexander, on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/eights/last_one.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pagat&lt;/a&gt; notes that a similar game with a similar name &lt;strong&gt;Last One&lt;/strong&gt; was invented sometime between  1970-1980.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mark Alexander reports that this variation of Crazy Eights (for 2 to 6 players) has been traced back to Walla Walla prison in Washington State, USA in the 1980's. Another correspondent tells me that she remembers playing it in the state of Maine, USA in the 1970's. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T00:03:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2013-10-14T00:11:27.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, it's not merely a question of strategy and expertise - English spelling rules being what they are, your typical ESL player is probably going to take a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of penalties for challenged words if you play strictly by the rules. I would think you'd want to not only give them a numeric handicap, but maybe soften up the rules on challenges a bit. Perhaps a successful challenge just means they need to try again with a different word, rather than making them lose their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the biggest difference between novice and intermediate Scrabble players is probably  knowing the list of 2-letter English words. I have seen people play Scrabble with a little cheat-sheet of the two letter words as a way to level the playing field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T00:11:27.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="643" CreationDate="2013-10-14T00:18:56.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned, only the first rule is an official rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third rule makes &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; difference whatsoever, because the board is symmetric. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the second (center your word) rule problematic in casual play. It seems like casual players often find it easier to play &quot;to the right, and down&quot;, so I try to play my first word so that it &lt;strong&gt;ends&lt;/strong&gt; on the star square. That way, the other players can work in the apparently &quot;more natural&quot; direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's much easier for the average person to come up with a list of words starting with K, as opposed to a list of words ending in K, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T00:18:56.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2013-10-14T00:26:51.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have certainly played Scrabble games with people that thought you could re-use bonus squares, though I haven't heard of the distinction you make between word and letter bonus squares. I think this is not so much a common variation as it is a common misconception (like Free Parking in Monopoly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had reasonably-good success weaning people of their attachment to this non-rule by purposely making solid blocks of tiles that have to be carefully lifted and replaced for every word I play :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1191" LastEditorUserId="1191" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T23:59:23.463" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T23:59:23.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13175" CreationDate="2013-10-14T02:59:57.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't specify, but my interpretation agrees with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/92999/libertalia-play-aid-by-d-a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; player aid in that it's meant to be &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; booty tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: A BGG post from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/Stefan%20B&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stefan Brunell&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/publisher/157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;American publisher&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9885147#9885147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; confirms this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Q2:] &lt;em&gt;The Preacher has a Dusk effect of &amp;quot;Remove all but one booty token.&amp;quot; Is this referring to that day's booty, or your own inventory? Do the removed tokens go back to the bag or do they end up in your inventory?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: &lt;strong&gt;Own inventory, to the bag.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T03:46:09.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12485" CreationDate="2013-10-14T07:28:52.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a mathematical analysis of a potential winning strategy for the Resistance side: &lt;a href=&quot;http://amininima.wordpress.com/2013/05/18/the-resistance/&quot;&gt;http://amininima.wordpress.com/2013/05/18/the-resistance/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's a thread on Boardgamegeek where they're trying to determine a formula for &quot;spy-ness&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/759016/using-excel-to-find-spies&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/759016/using-excel-to-find-spies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this answers your question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5969" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T07:28:52.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13189" CreationDate="2013-10-14T08:00:51.437" Score="15" ViewCount="36226" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone declares an attacker and that creature does not have vigilance, if I untap that creature, for example with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burst%20of%20Energy&quot;&gt;Burst of Energy&lt;/a&gt;, does it stop the creature from attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T10:49:58.743" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T10:16:34.370" Title="Does untapping an attacker stop its attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13188" CreationDate="2013-10-14T08:16:23.870" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once an attacker is declared, it is attacking. Tapping or untapping it after it has been declared as an attacker will have no effect on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.4b Tapping or untapping a creature that’s already been declared as an attacker or blocker doesn’t remove it from combat and doesn’t prevent its combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While untapping does not stop an attacking creature, you can use an effect like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tumble%20Magnet&quot;&gt;Tumble Magnet&lt;/a&gt; in a player's &amp;quot;Beginning of Combat&amp;quot; step to prevent a specific creature from being tapped to attack. It is important to note, however, that you must do this BEFORE your opponent taps their creatures to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gustcloak%20Savior&quot;&gt;Gustcloak Savior&lt;/a&gt; which do behave in the manner described in the question. However, these cards explicitly &lt;strong&gt;remove the creature from combat&lt;/strong&gt;. The untapping element is unrelated and incidental. If an effect only untaps an attacker, it is still attacking. Similarly, if an effect only removes a tapped attacker from combat, it is still tapped unless the effect explicitly untaps it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T13:42:30.610" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T13:42:30.610" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11443" CreationDate="2013-10-14T08:22:37.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lasso and Belle Star would keep permanent (which I think are black-bordered?) equipment cards from having any effect. You can, however, still play one, since those cards don't specifically prevent playing cards. Since removing one by paying cost + 1 gold is an action (according to the Gold Rush rulebook), you should also still be able to do that even in Lasso or Belle Star are active. The cards don't have any effect, but they're still equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm less sure about The Judge. It says you can't play cards in front of you or any player, but I think &quot;play&quot; refers to playing from your hand. Getting equipment cards is called &quot;buying&quot;, so I'm inclined to say it's a different action and isn't affected by The Judge. I'm not completely sure about that, though, and I haven't found any errata about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules seem to indicate that equipment cards are identical to other cards in play when it comes to elimination. It does say that all equipment cards are discarded when eliminated, and the rules for Shadow-Gunslinger says &quot;All the rules for the elimination of a player still apply: You discard all your cards in hand and in play (including all equipment)....&quot; That tells me that a Sheriff who eliminates a Deputy would lose his equipment just as though they were regular cards in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5969" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T08:22:37.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13269" CreationDate="2013-10-14T09:25:46.233" Score="13" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some players in my gaming group that seem to have a bit of a problem with devising their strategy. How can I &lt;strong&gt;help them improve?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, I want to clarify - I &lt;strong&gt;don't need gateway games recommendations&lt;/strong&gt;. We play various types of games, from Dobble or Times Up through Settlers of Catan and Discworld to Cyclades and Power Grid. Answers found &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6785/what-are-some-good-ways-to-transition-to-more-complex-strategic-thinking-games&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; didn't help me one bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll elaborate on my problem: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a quite diverse gaming group. We have some hard-core thinkers and gamers, myself included, who like to plan, devise a strategy, have an idea for their play. On the other hand, we have some more &lt;strong&gt;casual players&lt;/strong&gt;. They like to think about their moves, sometimes to the point of reaching Analysis Paralysis, choose what they think is best for them, but &lt;strong&gt;they have a problem with long term planning&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They &lt;strong&gt;tend to think in terms of the turn at hand&lt;/strong&gt;, weighing immediate outcomes of their actions against each other. For example in a game of Catan, they will think what's best for them in long term, they will cut someones longest road when possible, they will take the best spot available when building a new city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If there is no single move that brings immediate gain better than any of the other options, they get stuck&lt;/strong&gt;. If they can build a road in one of two or three places, they wont think &quot;hey, Mike has a long road and is cut off on the north. He will probably build it down south in a few turns, so I could cut him off too if I go there now&quot;. They have a few similar options in their hands and have a hard time figuring out what to do. Sometimes they even mumble &quot;I dont know what to do&quot; during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is fine in some less strategy focused and/or complex games. But &lt;strong&gt;when we play games that reward some long term planning or too many options, they have problems&lt;/strong&gt; or dislike the game. When we play Thunderstone, I tend to win, because I plan out what can I possibly draw from my deck and when will I reshuffle my library. I also tend to buy things with a plan for a deck, I seek out a combo or think what sort of hand would I like to have during the game and build a deck that delivers them. Some of our players tend to just buy the best card around. If the best cards are all bought out, they just randomly buy some of the other options, not having a plan for them. Yesterday I won two or three games in a row, and it was kind of a bummer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We wanted to try some new board games, and we got Eclipse. I really loved the game and have LOTS of fun, but some of our players felt overwhelmed by the options. It's not like they didn't grasp the rules - we made some mistakes, but that was not the issues. They knew what they could do and how to do it. They just couldn't devise a plan. They had a problem getting an idea of what they would like to do/accomplish in a given round, so deciding what to do in every turn was annoying for them - they chose kind of randomly, because they felt they couldn't make an informed decision. All in all, they decided they didn't like the game very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: &lt;strong&gt;How could I help our casual players better at developing a strategy?&lt;/strong&gt; They are fine on the tactical level. They experiment and play with tactics. How can I help them transfer that attitude and abilities to a more strategical level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T14:09:01.567" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T14:09:01.567" Title="How to teach strategic thinking to non-gamer players?" Tags="|catan|teaching|eclipse|power-grid|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-14T09:30:05.800" Score="9" ViewCount="1227" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Winter Tales and had my first two games with five friends last night. It was kinda fun, but we really felt like we were missing something or misinterpreting the rules somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem was, that we found it exceedingly difficult not to play the game in a gamist manner. Most of us have played pen and paper RPGs and are not averse to storytelling, and we were all well aware that the main focus of Winter Tales is to tell a coherent story. However, the way the game is designed, pitting two factions against each other, obviously means that players will do what they can to ensure their side is victorious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue in this regard, to us, arose during quest battles. Player 1 would start a quest and the five other players would then try to affect it with story cards. The thing was, story cards all went into one big pile, and everyone could see how many cards each side had gathered. This meant that the last few players could always tell their story and weave in just enough story cards to win the quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule about the active player being allowed to throw in one (and only one) last story card to wrap up the story likewise seemed useless, since one story card would never be able to impact the results anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, since a player can pass on activating a character during other players' turns, we always ended up with one ready character and one open quest. This meant that the player with the last ready character could wrap up the game by activating that character, starting the specific quest and ending it immediately, since no one else around the table would have a ready character (or a character in that quest location). This guaranteed an automatic memory favoring whoever ended up with the last ready character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a final note, the game is supposed to consist of several chapters; whenever a player activates his last ready character and finished his turn, the chapter ends and a new one begins. We played the game twice, with 3 and 4 memories, and during both games we finished the final memory during the first chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All this leads me to conclude that one of the three following is the case here:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) Winter Tales wants its players to focus on the story and not actively try to win the game. However, elements such as the opposing factions and the battle/trap mechanics lead me to believe that the game does in fact expect its players to attempt to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) Winter Tales is a poorly designed game. Since the game is still relatively new I guess this could be possible, but the reviews lead me to believe that this can't possible be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) Our group misinterpreted the rules or otherwise missed something important. This is supported by the, quite honestly, poorly worded/translated rule book, and is what I hope and expect to be the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, my questions are these:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;is C the case here, and if so, what did we misunderstand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5970" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T12:54:27.530" LastActivityDate="2023-08-18T18:36:30.827" Title="How do you play Winter Tales (in a non-gamist manner)?" Tags="|winter-tales|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13192" CreationDate="2013-10-14T12:38:43.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would try to get my &quot;non-strategic&quot; friends to start at the end, and then thinking &quot;backward&quot; to the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, in Settlers of Catan, you need 10 victory points (VPs), and you start with two (your two settlements). So you need eight &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of which, how do you get those eight? You have three more settlements to place, (3VPs), and can upgrade to four cities (four more VPs, nine total). Where does the 10th VP come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not clear on this point, but I believe that once you've upgraded one settlement to a city, you get the settlement token back and can build four (instead of three) more, then end with four cities and two settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there are a bunch of other ways to get the 10th VP (see the link).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean for resources? Early on, you need brick and wood for settlements and roads, but later, grain and ore to upgrade to cities, plus wool to buy development cards. Managing this &quot;transition&quot; is probably the hardest part of the gane,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of this was my own question on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13123/for-a-given-development-strategy-how-do-you-ensure-enough-secondary-resources&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This came from someone who is just learning the game, to play with his nephew and niece over Christmas.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-10-14T12:38:43.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13199" CreationDate="2013-10-14T17:40:43.543" Score="15" ViewCount="34862" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent plays a planeswalker during their first main phase.  I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373575&quot;&gt;Hero's Downfall&lt;/a&gt; or some other effect that will kill it after it is already in play, but before they use any of its abilities.  I could respond to them using a +1 ability, but I want to kill it before that effect goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most casual situations, it would basically come down to whether I say &quot;Hero's Downfall&quot; first, or they say &quot;+1&quot; first.  But I can't imagine that's how it's supposed to work.  Is there a time between when the planeswalker hits the battlefield and when they activate its abilities that they must let me respond? It seems to me that situations like this arise frequently, and they are resolved simply by who speaks up first, which is horrible for such a rules-oriented game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5975" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T14:47:35.240" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T13:55:27.223" Title="Destroying a Planewalker before its ability is used" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13197" CreationDate="2013-10-14T18:07:08.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because of the way timing an priority works, your assertion that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In most casual situations, it would basically come down to whether I&#xA;  say &quot;Hero's Downfall&quot; first, or they say &quot;+1&quot; first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The active player always has priority on their turn until they pass it. This means they always have an opportunity to cast spells and activate abilities before their opponent(s) in each of the phases of their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the only time in which you have a chance to 'respond' is if they start the stack again or they pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the active player gets priority after the planeswalker resolves, there is no time you can play an instant before they activate one of the loyalty abilites, unless they start the stack somewhere else with another instant or sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives&#xA;  priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player's mana pool, he or&#xA;  she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order&#xA;  receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability&#xA;  on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or&#xA;  step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is how it breaks down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A puts a planeswalker on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Noone wants to add to the stack, so it resolves and enters the battlefield as a permanent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the Active player now has priority again, they have the opportunity, as a sorcery, to activate a loyalty ability of the planeswalker and they do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hero's Downfall&lt;/a&gt; in response.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone passes so Hero's downfall resolves. The planeswalker is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker's loyalty ability resolves because it is it's own entity once it is in the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.2a The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. If an activated ability is being activated from a hidden zone, the&#xA;  card that has that ability is revealed. That ability is created on the&#xA;  stack as an object that's not a card. It becomes the topmost object on&#xA;  the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no&#xA;  other characteristics. Its controller is the player who activated the&#xA;  ability. The ability remains on the stack until it's countered, it&#xA;  resolves, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way it could happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A puts a planeswalker on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone passes, so it resolves and enters the battlefield as a permanent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A activates the ability of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152046&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gilder Bairn&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B cast's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373575&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hero's Downfall&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone passes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hero's Downfall resolves and the planeswalker is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the loyalty ability of the planeswalker is not an instant, but a sorcery, they can't activate it in response to Hero's downfall and the planeswalker dies before the ability can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It comes down to loyalty abilities can not be activated in response to anything because they are cast as a sorcery, not an instant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5542" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T13:42:12.260" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T13:42:12.260" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13197" CreationDate="2013-10-14T18:42:39.110" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTG is a turn-based game. There is never a time when it matters who said what first.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a spell resolves, the Active Player regains priority.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.3b]&lt;/sup&gt; They can then activate one of their Planeswalker's abilities before anyone else can do anything. If you play a Planeswalker and it's not countered, you're practically guaranteed to get a free use of its loyalty ability if you use it immediately after the Planeswalker resolves.&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; The Planeswalker is effectively a very expensive Sorcery if your opponent proceeds to destroy it in response to its ability.&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pass priority&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt;, then you could lose your chance to use the Planeswalker's loyalty ability because you allow your opponent to cast Hero's Downfall. If you cast another spell or activate another ability, or if an ability triggers in response to the Planeswalker entering the battlefield, then you could lose your chance to use the Planeswalker's loyalty ability because your opponent could cast Hero's Downfall in response this new spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your opponent said they're casting Hero's Downfall before one of these things happen, they're playing out of turn&lt;sup&gt;[4]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't apply if it's put into play, or if you somehow play it outside of your main phase or when the stack isn't empty. It also assumes that nothing triggers on it entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAjani%20Goldmane%5d&quot;&gt;Ajani Goldmane&lt;/a&gt;'s +1 (2 life for 4) with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSacred%20Nectar%5d&quot;&gt;Sacred Nectar&lt;/a&gt; (4 life for 2), although his -1 is better than common &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMarshaling%20Cry%5d&quot;&gt;Marshaling Cry&lt;/a&gt;'s for only one extra mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For example, by declaring attackers. If you do so, your opponent can say &amp;quot;hold on&amp;quot; or similar (to &amp;quot;shorten your shortcut&amp;quot;), and cast Hero's Downfall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At which point, you say &amp;quot;hold on&amp;quot; or similar, and activate the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.1. Unless a spell or ability is instructing a player to take an action, which player can take actions at any given time is determined by a system of priority. The player with priority may cast spells, activate abilities, and take special actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-10-16T13:55:27.223" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T13:55:27.223" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="229" CreationDate="2013-10-14T21:33:03.393" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You win 2VP per noble in the island and 1VP per noble in the city or san juan IMO. This is more balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5978" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2013-10-20T00:59:00.717" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T00:59:00.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13204" CreationDate="2013-10-15T18:33:20.887" Score="2" ViewCount="2743" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCQ4i.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Confusion in the Ranks. 3RR. Enchantment. Whenever an artifact, creature, or enchantment enters the battlefield, its controller chooses target permanent another player controls that shares a card type with it. Exchange control of those permanents.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the rulings for Confusion in the Ranks is this gem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12/1/2004&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confusion in the Ranks triggers on itself entering the battlefield. If an opponent controls an enchantment, exchange Confusion in the Ranks for that enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason, I simply cannot wrap my brain around this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does Confusion in the Ranks trigger itself when it comes into play?&lt;/strong&gt;  I would have though that by the time it was already in play, it would be too late to trigger itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular ruling in the Comprehensive Rules that I'm just not seeing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T23:09:43.757" Title="How does Confusion in the Ranks trigger itself upon entering the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13192" CreationDate="2013-10-15T18:47:27.793" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a common problem among beginner Go players; they tend to focus on short-term tactics and lose sight of the big picture.  Even if they win their battles, they're still likely to lose the war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the best tool for teaching long-term strategy for such cases is game reviews.  In Go clubs, it's not uncommon to see a game disassembled after the match is finished, and replayed piece-by-piece from the beginning to discuss and analyze each move.  It's one thing to mention that such-a-such a move was a good or a bad idea after the game, but it's another entirely to be able to show the exact game-state when the move was played, exactly how the game evolved after that move, and point to concrete examples of how that strategy affected the game board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such reviews often include variations (as in, &quot;Oh, but what if I did this instead?&quot;), allowing both players to explore exactly how particular moves (or lack thereof) affect the particular game state of the board at that particular time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hindsight, as they say, is 20-20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Go has the advantage of being a fairly simple game to review, at least mechanically.  An experienced player with a bit of practice can easily replay most of if not an entire game from memory; this would of course be complicated in other board games with more complex pieces, extra players, or elements of randomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic principle would still apply though: Recreate the progression of the game state, and show concrete examples of how early moves affected later progress.  This could, theoretically, be done simply by making a video of the game and watching it later, but I find that nothing can really replace the benefits of re-playing the physical game from the beginning (if only because it makes it easier to add and remove pieces as needed to explore variations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if there's any game-recording standard for, say, Settlers of Catan or Power Grid, but it would be worth looking into.  This would allow one person to record each turn of the game, so it can be perfectly re-created (and reviewed) at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;(this of course assumes that the casual players actually care enough about the games in question to want to improve; in my experience, many casual gamers simply prefer to stay casual gamers and avoid the heavy long-term-complex-strategy-thinking entirely)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T18:47:27.793" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13201" CreationDate="2013-10-15T19:08:30.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, compare Confusion in the Ranks to this type of card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1j8pF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Banisher Priest&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Banisher Priest enters the battlefield, exile target creature an opponent controls until Banisher Priest leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Magic, cards definitely &quot;see&quot; themselves entering the battlefield. It's a mechanic that gets used all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as comp rules go, that's because we check for triggers &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; an action has occurred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6a ... Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that match the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-15T19:13:53.233" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T19:13:53.233" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13201" CreationDate="2013-10-15T19:13:11.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triggers look at the board state immediately after the spell resolves and moves from stack to battlefield.  The &quot;event&quot; is object of given type moved from stack (or other zone) to battlefield.  The state of the board is checked for triggers that see that event immediately after the event, and so there it is.  I guess there isn't really a better answer than, the comp rules say so, so here it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6a Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. These are written, “When [this object] enters&#xA;  the battlefield, . . . ” or “Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield,&#xA;  . . .” Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the&#xA;  battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the&#xA;  newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that&#xA;  match the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T19:13:11.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14049" CreationDate="2013-10-15T21:31:48.397" Score="4" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty unclear portion of the rules. Potions which affect combat which can be played &quot;at any time&quot; are pretty self explanatory-- you have to be in an adjacent room or same to use it. What about curses and scrolls which affect combat? Some of them seemingly can impact combat without being near it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:38:41.583" Title="When and where can scrolls, curses, and potions be used?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13233" CreationDate="2013-10-15T21:43:23.230" Score="2" ViewCount="1863" Body="&lt;p&gt;Passageways and Doors have already been cleared up. How does a door differ from a locked door, aside from move cost? How does a locked door differ from a hidden door? When playing as a thief, does his ability to treat it as a regular door mean movement cost goes to 1? Does this apply to hidden doors too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doors are a very... very poorly documented section in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastActivityDate="2022-11-23T08:47:21.997" Title="How do doors, locked doors, and hidden doors differ?" Tags="|munchkin-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2013-10-15T22:27:55.393" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scoring will be frustrating for one player or another. If the handicap is too harsh, the native speaker will have a hard time; if the rules are too lenient, the ESL player will be frustrated... The best solution would be to play Scrabble just for fun. If you want to play competitively, Scrabble isn't the right game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2013-10-15T22:27:55.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T01:06:29.370" Score="0" ViewCount="23314" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say, for example, I summon a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gemhide%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Gemhide Sliver&lt;/a&gt; this turn. Am I allowed to tap the Gemhide sliver for it's ability the moment it enters into the field, or is it affected by summoning sickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T18:04:24.173" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T21:00:37.647" Title="Tapping a creature on the turn it enters play" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:23:44.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13181" CreationDate="2013-10-16T02:30:25.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crazy Eights&lt;/strong&gt; was a very old game when I first played it in the early '60's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making a special deck to help remember the abilities of each rank (ie selling &lt;strong&gt;UNO&lt;/strong&gt;) is brilliant entrepreneurship and marketing, but not a new game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T02:30:25.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13208" CreationDate="2013-10-16T02:47:44.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will have summoning sickness; you cannot active its ability this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; rule. Ignore this rule for creatures with haste&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature that has the Haste ability can tap immediately, so unless you have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reflex%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Reflex Sliver&lt;/a&gt; on the 'field, you will not be able to tap a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gemhide%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Gemhide Sliver&lt;/a&gt; for mana on the turn it comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T18:05:03.077" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T18:05:03.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13212" CreationDate="2013-10-16T09:04:33.370" Score="4" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Elite&quot;&gt;Boros Elite&lt;/a&gt; in play, and I decide to attack a player with all 3. Does it trigger Battalion? Since the card sais:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battalion — Whenever Boros Elite and at least two other creatures attack, Boros Elite gets +2/+2 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the other 2 Boros Elites count as the 2 other creatures? Or do I have to attack with 2 different named creatures to activate Battalion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5984" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T09:26:35.730" Title="Do 3 Boros Elite attacking trigger Battalion?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13211" CreationDate="2013-10-16T09:16:21.167" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a card refers to itself by name, it is referring to that specific instance of the card. Other cards with the same name are not affected or considered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a card to work in the way you describe, it would be worded significantly differently. Something along the lines of &amp;quot;Whenever Boros Elite and at least two other creatures not named Boros Elite...&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;Whenever Boros Elite and at least two other creatures with different names...&amp;quot;. Examples where these restrictions are put in place are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Escaped%20Shapeshifter&quot;&gt;Escaped Shapeshifter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gifts%20Ungiven&quot;&gt;Gifts Ungiven&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-10-16T09:26:35.730" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T09:26:35.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13213" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-16T18:16:14.030" Score="1" ViewCount="1613" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has bought second hand &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6366/dungeons-dragons-the-fantasy-adventure-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeons and Dragons The Fantasy Board Game&lt;/a&gt; and about half of the cards is missing. He'd like to print the missing cards himself to be able to play the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the scans of the cards available anywhere for download and print?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4956" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T19:34:29.270" Title="Where can I find scans of D&amp;D:TFBG board game cards?" Tags="|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13213" CreationDate="2013-10-16T19:34:29.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know where you can find scans to download and print, but you can use BGG to help out with things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/30526/dungeons-and-dragons-board-game-comprehensive-comp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Full component list (with card names, but not full card text)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/150255/item/2408611#item2408611&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2013 Spare Parts Resource List entry for the game&lt;/a&gt; - He could post his wants there after seeing what is missing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/images/boardgame/6366/dungeons-dragons-the-fantasy-adventure-board-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Image gallery for the game&lt;/a&gt; (15 pages of images, there might be images of the cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a lot of scanning of cards for printing purposes because that leads to copyright issues, and since we're talking about WotC, they WILL go after people with C&amp;amp;D orders if and when they find that sort of thing. But the above links should help him in getting the actual cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T19:34:29.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13217" CreationDate="2013-10-16T21:21:59.370" Score="12" ViewCount="7263" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a computer simulation run a few years ago for Monopoly which calculated the most likely properties and squares to land on and some other data. Does anyone have or know the stats of the simulation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5990" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T19:28:48.677" Title="Statistical Approach to Winning Monopoly" Tags="|monopoly|statistics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13216" CreationDate="2013-10-16T23:14:01.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the results. Red and Orange properties are places where players most often lands on. Most often visited places are the Jail and the 3rd red property (&quot;&lt;em&gt;Illinois Avenue&lt;/em&gt;&quot; in the American version and &quot;&lt;em&gt;Avenue Henri-Martin&lt;/em&gt;&quot; in the French version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a table &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monopolypedia.fr/strategie/cases_frequentation.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here &lt;strong&gt;(fr)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. The table contains the French names so I join a &lt;a href=&quot;http://ganja69.free.fr/bb/jan/monopoly.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;french Monopoly board&lt;/a&gt; to this answer in order to help people who do not know French names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastEditorUserId="3635" LastEditDate="2017-09-05T23:04:00.063" LastActivityDate="2017-09-05T23:04:00.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13216" CreationDate="2013-10-16T23:51:49.223" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure which particular site you are referencing, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://amnesta.net/other/monopoly/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Win at Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; calculated the Return On Investment (ROI) of all the properties based on the liklihood of landing on them. They concluded that Railroads (especially 4) had the fastest most consistent ROI, followed by a Monopoly with 3 Houses, utilities were the worst ROI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T23:51:49.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13216" CreationDate="2013-10-16T23:51:55.640" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the (quite extensive!) results: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tkcs-collins.com/truman/monopoly/monopoly.shtml&quot;&gt;http://www.tkcs-collins.com/truman/monopoly/monopoly.shtml&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first part of that page is the long-term probabilities for ending up on a particular square. The last column tells you the ranking: you will end up in Jail most often, Illinois second-most-often, then Go, then the B&amp;amp;O Railroad, etc. This is neat, but you'll need to figure out whether those most-frequently-hit squares are profitable in the short and long term; the next part is about the expected income per roll, and after that is how long it will take you to recoup the cost of things. (Fun fact: buying the third house is the fastest thing to recoup. That doesn't mean you should buy straight to three houses, or that you should stop there; it just means that you'll earn the money-for-the-third-house back fastest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with that page is that it doesn't point you to The Best Strategy. Do you want to earn back your initial money fast? Do you want to earn the most money overall, even if you'll have less money in the early game? Do you just take a hedonistic joy in getting people to hand you money, and want that to happen as often as possible? You'll go far by picking up the properties that recoup your costs quickly, but those properties are the light blue and orange properties - they're nicely profitable and quick to set up, but they don't rake in the gobs of money you'll want in the end-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-10-16T23:51:55.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13208" CreationDate="2013-10-17T21:00:37.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a comprehensive rule citation, but basic questions should also have basic references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_Rulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike other types of permanents, creatures enter the battlefield with “summoning sickness”: a creature can’t attack, or use an ability that has {T} in its cost, until it has started your turn on the battlefield under your control. You can block with a creature or activate its other abilities no matter how long it’s been on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2013-10-17T21:00:37.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-17T23:05:19.843" Score="3" ViewCount="7861" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use an ability after an opponent uses an instant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Victim%20of%20Night&quot;&gt;Victim of Night&lt;/a&gt; on my creature. It reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy target non-Vampire, non-Werewolf, non-Zombie creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bubbling%20Cauldron&quot;&gt;Bubbling Cauldron&lt;/a&gt;'s ability to sacrifice the creature he just attempted to kill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1, Tap, Sacrifice a creature: You gain 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5996" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T00:38:25.760" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T04:20:45.747" Title="Can an ability be used after my opponent uses an instant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13222" CreationDate="2013-10-17T23:19:47.900" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do that. In Magic: the Gathering, most creature abilities are used like instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_Rulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rules&lt;/a&gt; (PDF), page 10, if you're not familiar with the Stack and how spell casting works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation you describe would work like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Victim%20of%20the%20Night&quot;&gt;Victim of the Night&lt;/a&gt;, choosing your creature for the target. It goes on the stack and doesn't resolve yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent chooses to cast nothing else yet and passes priority to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bubbling%20Cauldron&quot;&gt;Bubbling Cauldron&lt;/a&gt;'s ability. That too goes on the stack and doesn't resolve yet. You pay the cost immediately, including sacrificing the creature targeted by Victim of the Night.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose to pass priority so your opponent can respond. They choose to do nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the top object on the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bubbling Cauldron's ability resolves first. You gain 4 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again there is an opportunity for your opponent or you to respond in turn, if neither of you do, the top object of the stack resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Victim of the Night resolves. Its target is gone, so it can't do anything. A new target can't be chosen. Victim of the Night goes to the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T04:20:45.747" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T04:20:45.747" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13224" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T01:40:01.590" Score="1" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not very &lt;em&gt;au fait&lt;/em&gt; of how state based actions work, so I'd like to understand an interaction. Say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brindle%20Boar&quot;&gt;Brindle Boar&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;. There are basically no simple ways (barring graveyard hate or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;-like effects) to prevent both permanents from returning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, if they target Gift or Boar with removal, I sacrifice the boar, but &lt;em&gt;(this is the part I'm not sure)&lt;/em&gt; SBAs will send the Gift to the graveyard before the removal can hit it, right (and same if they target in response to my sacrificing the boar)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T02:50:28.087" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T20:36:16.400" Title="How do SBAs interact with the sacrifice of a creature enchanted with Gift of Immortality?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13224" CreationDate="2013-10-18T04:38:37.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, SBAs will result in GoI going to the graveyard. Yes, there are simple ways to prevent both from returning.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;State-Based Actions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sacrifice the boar before your opponent targets it (or the Aura enchanting it), then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; is attached to an object that no longer exists. Before any play receives priority, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; is placed in its owner's graveyard. Your opponent can no longer target &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, because it is no longer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sacrifice the boar in response to your opponent targeting it (or the Aura enchanting it), then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; will still be placed in the graveyard, because the object it was enchanting no longer exists. The spell that originally targeted it (or the boar) will be countered on resolution, because the boar and the aura will be new objects when they return to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.2d State-based actions happen automatically when certain conditions are met. See rule 704. They’re dealt with before a player would receive priority. See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Playing Around Gift of Immortality&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are at least a few other ways besides graveyard removal and Stifle effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use two removal spells: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; returns the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brindle%20boar&quot;&gt;Brindle boar&lt;/a&gt; to the battlefield after it is sent to the graveyard, but GoI doesn't return to the battlefield until the beginning of the next end step. You can use the first removal to force the sacrifice, and before the GoI returns, you can use the second removal to send it to the graveyard permanently.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [...] 400.7e Abilities of Auras that trigger when the enchanted permanent leaves the battlefield can find the new object that Aura became in its owner’s graveyard if it was put into that graveyard at the same time the enchanted permanent left the battlefield. It can also find the new object that Aura became in its owner’s graveyard as a result of being put there as a state-based action for not being attached to a permanent. (See rule 704.5n.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Shock&quot;&gt;Sudden Shock&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krosan%20Grip&quot;&gt;Krosan Grip&lt;/a&gt;: Split Second prevents your opponent from activating &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brindle%20Boar&quot;&gt;Brindle Boar&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability while it is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;End the Turn: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; prevent the &amp;quot;at the beginning of the end step&amp;quot; from returning either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T13:22:35.977" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T13:22:35.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13240" CreationDate="2013-10-18T10:06:06.287" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Go online and have by now quite a few sgf's of past games available which I could review. I'm however lazy so I certainly wont review all or even most of them. So which ones can I learn the most from reviewing? Ones against stronger players or against weaker ones? The ones I lost or the ones I won?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5085" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T22:50:40.263" Title="Which games are most rewarding to review?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-10-21T13:12:40.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13227" CreationDate="2013-10-18T10:30:06.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should review games where you really put some thought into your moves.  If you play a quick game without thinking much, the mistakes you find will just be oversights and carelessness.  If you review games you've spent some time on, or better yet have a stronger player review them, then the mistakes are more likely to be real holes in your knowledge, or moves that were smaller than you thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T10:30:06.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13231" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:02:00.313" Score="4" ViewCount="14938" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daxos%20of%20Meletis&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt; deals combat damage to a player, and the card revealed by that player is a land? Am I able to play that land or does nothing happen, because Daxos's ability is worded as &amp;quot;you may cast&amp;quot; that card and you don't cast lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T13:18:07.720" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T23:54:40.133" Title="If I reveal a land with Daxos of Meletis, can I play it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:22:50.680" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot play the land, because Daxos only allows you to &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; the card. The land will still be exiled; and it will simply stay in exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.1a Some effects still refer to &amp;quot;playing&amp;quot; a card. &amp;quot;Playing a card&amp;quot; means playing that card as a land or casting that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see in 601.2, &amp;quot;casting&amp;quot; specifically means to put it on the stack, which you do not do when playing a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Djinn%20of%20Wishes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Djinn of Wishes&lt;/a&gt;, which allow you to &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt; a revealed card, as opposed to allowing you to &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; a revealed card. That's the wording needed to allow you to play a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T13:22:50.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2013-10-18T13:29:50.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The land is exiled and you gain 0 life. You may not play the land, because as you point out, the card says &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; not &amp;quot;play&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...] Whenever Daxos of Meletis deals combat damage to a player, exile the top card of that player's library. You gain life equal to that card's converted mana cost. Until end of turn, &lt;strong&gt;you may cast that card&lt;/strong&gt; and you may spend mana as though it were mana of any color to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[CR601]. Casting Spells&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.1. Previously, the action of casting a spell, or casting a card as a spell, was referred to on cards as &amp;quot;playing&amp;quot; that spell or that card. Cards that were printed with that text have received errata in the Oracle card reference so they now refer to &amp;quot;casting&amp;quot; that spell or that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.1a Some effects still refer to &amp;quot;playing&amp;quot; a card. &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Playing a card&amp;quot; means playing that card as a land or casting that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Djinn%20of%20Wishes&quot;&gt;Djinn of Wishes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Intet%2C%20the%20Dreamer&quot;&gt;Intet, the Dreamer&lt;/a&gt; allow you to play exiled lands, Daxos does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CR define what you can do in MtG, since no rule exists for &lt;strong&gt;Casting a Land&lt;/strong&gt;, you cannot do it. Additionally, rules exist for cards that share the land type and an indication that lands are not spells (about the closest you will get that lands aren't spells).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.9. If an object is both a land and another card type, it can be played only as a land. It can’t be cast as a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;505.5b During either main phase, the active player may play one land [...] &lt;strong&gt;Neither the land&lt;/strong&gt; nor the action of playing the land &lt;strong&gt;is a spell or ability&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T19:41:45.533" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T19:41:45.533" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13229" CreationDate="2013-10-18T14:49:08.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The land will be permanently exiled.&lt;/strong&gt; Specifically,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will exile the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will gain zero life, which is to say you won't gain any life. Abilities that trigger when you gain life won't trigger&lt;sup&gt;[CR 118.9]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot cast the land because it has an unpayable mana cost&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.6, 601.2e,g]&lt;/sup&gt;. As such, it will stay exiled until the end of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daxos%20of%20Meletis&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt; instructed you to &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt; the card, that would be a different story. To play card is either to play it as a land or to cast it as a spell. You would be able to put the card on the battlefield for free if it's your turn and if you haven't already played a land that turn. It would count towards your limit of one land per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daxos%20of%20Meletis&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt; instructed you to &lt;em&gt;put&lt;/em&gt; the card &lt;em&gt;on the battlefield&lt;/em&gt;, that would be a different story too. The card would immediately be moved directly from your hand to the battlefield. This wouldn't count towards your limit of one land per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, there's no rule forbidding casting a land&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. MTG will simply never let you do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Land cards, as printed, have an unpayable mana cost, so they can't be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What if the land's mana cost was replaced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that replace the mana cost (e.g. &amp;quot;you may cast [card or copy] without paying its mana cost&amp;quot;) will specifically exclude land cards. (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterlash&quot;&gt;Counterlash&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What if a card with a mana cost gains the land type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a rule specifically excluding these from being cast&lt;sup&gt;[CR 305.9]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GendoIkari claims the rules say a land can never be a spell, but I believe he's misreading a rule&lt;sup&gt;[CR 305.1]&lt;/sup&gt;. 305.1 describes what happens when playing a land as a land. The land is not placed on the stack &lt;em&gt;when playing it as a land&lt;/em&gt;, so the land is never a spell &lt;em&gt;when playing it as a land&lt;/em&gt;. That doesn't mean it can't go on the stack at other times. That doesn't mean it can't be a spell at other times. But he thinks it does. He's right they can't, but not because of 305.1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referenced Rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;118.9. Some triggered abilities are written, “Whenever [a player] gains life, . . . .” Such abilities are treated as though they are written, “Whenever a source causes [a player] to gain life, . . . .” If a player gains 0 life, no life gain event has occurred, and these abilities won’t trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.6. Some mana costs contain no mana symbols. This represents an unpayable cost. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. [...] Casting a spell follows the steps listed below, in order. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2e The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2g The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.9. If an object is both a land and another card type, it can be played only as a land. It can’t be cast as a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.1. A player who has priority may play a land card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Playing a land is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). Rather, the player simply puts the land onto the battlefield. Since the land doesn’t go on the stack, it is never a spell, and players can’t respond to it with instants or activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T16:16:39.527" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T16:16:39.527" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13206" CreationDate="2013-10-18T15:23:30.983" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I've played through a few times with some shop runners, and pored over boardgamegeek (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/397178/rules-question-locked-and-hidden-doors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/397178/rules-question-locked-and-hidden-doors&lt;/a&gt;) -- Here's my best interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Doors&lt;/strong&gt;- 1 movement cost&lt;br/&gt;Fundamentally identital to a passageway. The door itself plays an important role with monsters. If a monster is tiny or human sized, they can usually open doors, unless directed otherwise with their monster card. Huge monsters generally can't go through doors unless they have a skill dictated on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Locked Doors&lt;/strong&gt;- 3 movement cost&lt;br/&gt;Thieves can treat this as a normal door, meaning it will only cost 1 movement point to pass through. Monsters generally can't pass through these unless their cards specify they can break a door down-- allowing all monsters also moving during that turn to pass through the broken doorway. During combat, the movement cost is ignored, and the room is considered &quot;adjacent&quot; and a neighboring munchkin can participate in combat unless the room tile states otherwise. In the rulebook, this is justified by the statement that combat movement &quot;just happens,&quot; and doesn't cost anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hidden Doors&lt;/strong&gt;- 3 movement cost&lt;br/&gt;Wizards can treat this as a normal door, meaning it will only cost 1 movement point to pass through. Nearly all monsters cannot pass through this door, even if they have the ability to break down doors. Only monsters which can see hidden doors, Like King Tut, can pass through a hidden door. Hidden doors do not have to be &quot;discovered&quot;, and are not treated as a wall by munchkins. All combat rules for locked doors apply to hidden doors as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At no point do doors get treated as corridors unless a monster breaks it down. The presence of a door has the most significant impact on monster movement and movement cost, not munchkin movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T15:23:30.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T16:05:53.273" Score="2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I cast a creature with an ability that costs 2 mana to gain hexproof.Can I activate its ability as I'm casting it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6001" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T17:02:22.227" Title="Activating abilities of creatures while it is in stack" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13234" CreationDate="2013-10-18T16:47:45.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only kind of abilities you can possibly activate during casting are mana abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you could activate arbitrary abilities, you couldn't activate its ability because that ability (like most) can only be activated when the object on which it resides is on the battlefield. From the time you start casting the creature until it resolves, it's on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, hexproof (like most static abilities) only work when the object on which it resides is on the battlefield, so even if he spell had hexproof (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ascended%20Lawmage&quot;&gt;Ascended Lawmage&lt;/a&gt; being cast), it wouldn't have any effect whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T16:47:45.917" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13234" CreationDate="2013-10-18T17:02:22.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really depends on what you mean, a real example would help a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can respond to a spell on the stack by activating an ability, yes (assuming there is no timing restriction and that the spell doesn't have &lt;em&gt;Split Second&lt;/em&gt;). But you can't activate the ability of the spell itself while it's not in play and still on the stack. It means that you can't give your spell hexproof (and that doesn't make any sense anyway) to prevent countermagic for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each players receive priority before each elements of the stack resolve. Every time you receive the priority, you can do things as long as you respect timing restrictions. But you can't activate an ability during the resolution of a spell (you can't split the spell in two even if it has 2 sentences). For example, you can't activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elixir%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; during the resolution of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; (shuffling your deck after you draw only 1 or 2 cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6002" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T17:02:22.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:24:52.823" Score="4" ViewCount="4119" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father and his friend were playing cribbage today and ran into a dilemma trying to score their hand properly.  Could you let me know what you think so I can straighten this out for them.  The hand was 3 Aces and 2 Sevens.  How is this hand scored?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not play cribbage and therefore could offer no help to their situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6005" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2013-10-18T22:34:25.647" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T17:46:12.903" Title="Scoring a confusing cribbage hand" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13237" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:29:49.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have three A's, let's call them AC, AS, AH (no diamond), and two 7's, let's say 7C and 7S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, you have 6 points in 15s: 7C/7S/AC, 7C/7S/AS and 7C/7S/AH.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have no runs or double runs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, you have 6 points in Ace pairs: AC/AS, AC/AH, and AC/AH (also known as a Pair Royal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, you have 2 points in Seven pairs: 7C/7S.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have no flushes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have no Jacks for his nobs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a total of 6+2+6=14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T22:29:49.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13239" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:39:27.437" Score="2" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;We ran into a friendly argument while playing cribbage today and we're stumped as to how to count this hand.  How do you count 3 Sixes, 1 Seven and 1 Eight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6005" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-10-19T01:27:01.003" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T17:48:37.880" Title="Cribbage Scoring Difficulties" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13227" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:50:40.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;TimK highlighted the most important aspects already. I would put some additional emphasis on two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, games which featured a &lt;strong&gt;shape that was of particular interest&lt;/strong&gt; to you. Maybe some unusual corner sequence? Or a tsumego that went really strange in the game? Have a look. This even applies to blitz games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, &lt;strong&gt;games in which you do not know why you lost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are particularly interesting. After fuseki (for instance), you honestly think you did okay, but the game has a bad feeling to it, and you notice how your opponent has so many nice moves available, while you &lt;em&gt;somehow&lt;/em&gt; see no good moves for yourself! How could this happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, these games show a flaw in your internal thought process and basic understanding of the game. Review those with a (much) stronger player. Now two things can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either his ideas will hit you and you suddenly get it. That's nice, you should remember the issue he explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you will regard his advice as only &lt;em&gt;so-so&lt;/em&gt;, not bad but also not particularly good - and this shows exactly what is wrong with &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; thought process. It means you lack correct judgement in a particular area. Try to grasp his ideas and appreciate them until you incorporate them in your thought process. This means your general understanding of the game will increase, which is the topmost important obstacle when you 'hit a wall' in improving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T22:50:40.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13239" CreationDate="2013-10-18T22:54:19.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, there's only one fifteen: the seven and the eight.  That's two points.  (Note that the sixes can't participate in 15s at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, there are three runs of three: each six in turn, the seven, and the eight.  That's 3*3 = nine points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there's the trio of sixes, worth six points (or equivalently, three pairs of sixes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the final score for the hand is 2+9+6 = 17 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-10-18T22:54:19.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-18T23:20:55.893" Score="4" ViewCount="3174" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many cards can a player purchase during a turn? If it is three, is there a way to discard one of your cards to purchase another?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6006" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-10-19T01:25:56.137" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T01:25:56.137" Title="How many cards can I buy in a turn?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13242" CreationDate="2013-10-19T01:24:35.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do as much purchasing as you like; each time a card is purchased, you draw a new one from the deck, which is available to purchase immediately. If you have somehow saved up 50 energy, you could buy many, many cards. There is no limit to how many cards you are allowed to own, but if you're collecting &lt;em&gt;that much&lt;/em&gt; energy, somebody else has probably won already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hate the cards that are available, you may spend 2 Energy to sweep all three available cards away into the discard pile, and replace them with new cards from the deck. You may do this repeatedly, at 2 Energy per time you sweep the cards, and you can do this both before and after buying a card. (You don't actually need to buy a card, either; if you only have 2 Energy, and your opponent is staring at a card you don't want him to have, you can sweep the cards without buying anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The above bits were paraphrased from the rules, under step three of your turn, &quot;Buying Cards&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T01:24:35.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13244" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-19T13:27:32.823" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/278/catan-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan Card Game&lt;/a&gt; and I was wondering if anybody has had any success playing extensions designed for &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/66056/the-rivals-for-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Rivals for Catan&lt;/a&gt; game with it (perhaps with modifications to the rules/cards used).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I accidentally bought the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/93401/the-rivals-for-catan-age-of-darkness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Age of Darkness&lt;/a&gt; extension without realizing it was for the updated version of the card game, then idly wondered if it could be made to work anyway as I've played the iPad version of Rivals for Catan and it seems broadly similar to the original card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1526" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T16:41:26.450" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T16:41:26.450" Title="Using &quot;Rivals for Catan&quot; extensions with &quot;Catan Card Game&quot;" Tags="|catan|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13252" CreationDate="2013-10-19T17:26:51.027" Score="5" ViewCount="3681" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may seem hard to believe but I played a game recently where I lost all of my home colonies and foreign colonies (all of my ships were in the warp), and I wasn't playing the Masochist.  How does the game go on?  The way I played it was that I got a ship out of the warp on my turn, but since I had no colonies to land it on it was simply &quot;in space&quot; so that I could use it to launch an attack.  I have not found anything in the rule book or on the internet that addresses this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6008" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T04:01:37.397" Title="What happens when a player loses all of their colonies in Cosmic Encounter?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13246" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13247" CreationDate="2013-10-19T17:34:10.223" Score="5" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently been told that a revived &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obzedat%2C%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Obzedat, Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt; can escape &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whip%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Whip of Erebos&lt;/a&gt;'s exile effect because you can exile it while the whip's effect's is on the stack, but wouldn't that trick (or the activate ability on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aetherling&quot;&gt;Aetherling&lt;/a&gt; that can theoretically be used in the same way) merely run afoul of the whip's continuous effect that applies to the revived creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If [the returned creature] would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T20:26:06.903" Title="How do creature that exile themselves interact with Whip of Erebos?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13246" CreationDate="2013-10-19T17:50:46.340" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason you can dodge the whip with an ability like that is the &quot;instead of putting it anywhere else&quot; clause in the whip's rule.  That ability only applies if the card is going somewhere besides exile, it is fine with allowing the Ghost Council to be exiled by their own ability.  So the Ghost Council is considered to have been exiled by its own ability, not by the whip, and its own ability will return it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T17:50:46.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13249" CreationDate="2013-10-19T20:02:40.010" Score="3" ViewCount="1350" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Scrivener&quot;&gt;Blood Scrivener&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would draw a card while you have no cards in hand, instead draw two cards and lose 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divination&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt; as my last card, how many total cards do I draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5270" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T01:09:27.077" Title="How does Blood Scrivener work if I &quot;draw 2 cards&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13248" CreationDate="2013-10-19T20:13:40.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You draw three cards and lose one life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Draw two cards&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Draw one card. Draw one card.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;[CR 120.2]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the first draw, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Scrivener&quot;&gt;Blood Scrivener&lt;/a&gt;'s replacement effect would kick in&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. You draw two cards and lose one life instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second draw, Blood Scrivener's replacement effect would not kick in because you have two cards in your hand&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referenced Rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;120.2. Cards may only be drawn one at a time. If a player is instructed to draw multiple cards, that player performs that many individual card draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divination&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt; was the last card in your hand, and it moved from there to the stack when you started casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you had at least one card left in your library. If you didn't, you'd lose another life. This isn't likely to matter, as you would normally lose immediately after the spell finishes resolving anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T01:09:27.077" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T01:09:27.077" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13246" CreationDate="2013-10-19T20:26:06.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note the &amp;quot;anywhere else&amp;quot; condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If [permanent] would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is a nice way of writing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If [permanent] would move from the battlefield to somewhere other than exile, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86therling&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;therling&lt;/a&gt; are being exiled from the battlefield, no event matching the ones &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whip%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Whip of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; replaces occur, no replacing occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-19T20:26:06.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9739" CreationDate="2013-10-20T03:59:22.913" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;the game you are looking for is called zigzag&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6010" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T03:59:22.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13245" CreationDate="2013-10-20T04:01:37.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Cosmic%20Encounter/cosmic-encounter-rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight Games rule book&lt;/a&gt; addresses this in multiple locations&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stripping a Planet of Ships&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as a player removes the last of his or her ships from any planet, that player no longer has a colony on that planet. Any ships involved in the encounter cannot return to that planet. Ships retrieved from the warp cannot return to that planet. That player has no colony there. If a player has no ships left on one of his or her home planets, he or she must still defend it (with zero ships). &lt;strong&gt;If a situation arises where a player must relocate ships but he or she has no colonies anywhere on the board, those ships go to the warp.&lt;/strong&gt; (Pg. 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Regroup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout the game, ships will go to the warp when encounters are lost. At the start of an encounter, one of the offense’s ships is retrieved from the warp and placed in one of his or her colonies (home or otherwise). &lt;strong&gt;If a player has no colonies, the retrieved ship is placed directly in the hyperspace gate.&lt;/strong&gt; (Pg. 7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Cosmic%20Encounter/faq/cosmicfaq_v1.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ covers&lt;/a&gt; what to do if a Mobius Tubes is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: How does Mobius Tubes work if you have no planets?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Your ships exit the warp, then any ships that have no colony to return to are returned to the warp. If you are the offense, you may place up to four of your ships in the hyperspace gate before the others are lost to the warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T04:01:37.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13254" CreationDate="2013-10-20T08:28:24.873" Score="4" ViewCount="1313" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shipwreck%20Singer&quot;&gt;Shipwreck Singer&lt;/a&gt; has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1U: Target creature an opponent controls attacks this turn if able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When can I activate this ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Manaweft%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Manaweft Sliver&lt;/a&gt;. I say &amp;quot;attack if able&amp;quot; at the beginning of the draw step of my opponent. Can he now use the mana ability or does he have to honor my attack order and can no longer use its mana ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T18:05:56.287" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T18:05:56.287" Title="Shipwreck Singer: When can the first ability be activated?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13253" CreationDate="2013-10-20T08:57:43.353" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;He does have to attack you when he's able to. But when your opponent taps for mana, the creature stays tapped (tapping is part of the cost and cannot be interrupted), therefore it's not able to attack in his attack phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your opponent activates the creata mana-ability in his main phase (later than your ability was activated), he still won't be able to attack. He's allowed to do that to prevent his sliver(s) from attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T08:57:43.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13253" CreationDate="2013-10-20T08:58:01.270" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Attacks this turn if able&quot; means: when the Attack phase comes around, if that creature is able to attack, it must. That doesn't come with an obligation to &lt;em&gt;leave&lt;/em&gt; it able to attack, though, and your opponent may rightly wish to do something that leaves that creature unable to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; use Manaweft's Sliver ability. Then, when the Attack phase comes around, Manaweft Sliver won't be able to attack, and won't do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T11:08:47.403" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T11:08:47.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13192" CreationDate="2013-10-20T22:14:26.040" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I&quot;m not too sure as to how helpful this will be because I plan games all the time but 7 wonders has 3 rounds in which most of your points get scored in the last meaning you will need to plan how you will play cards in the 3rd round if it be by having the precursor building, having a lot of resource generation, or gold to trade with. In our group people that started off getting low scores seem to have found ways to plan their play to improve their scores quite a bit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T22:14:26.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13261" CreationDate="2013-10-20T22:15:59.903" Score="3" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently picked up MTG to try out. It is fun but the rules are quite vague. It is not clear whether a player can attack more than once (with different cards) in a turn. It isn't clear how tap abilities of cards related to attacking (if one attacks does one also get the tap ability - if so can it be used without attacking, and can it be used if not ones own turn). It isn't clear when a card says &quot;for each creature under your control&quot; whether that count includes creature tokens (which are &quot;creatures&quot; but are often treated separately in the text of cards). Does life link only count damage to the other player or all damage to any creature? The list goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a more precise version of the general rules for MTG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T16:25:31.123" Title="Precise rules for MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13259" CreationDate="2013-10-20T23:16:06.200" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want to look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;MTG rules page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It includes the following resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Basic Rules: the most important game rules laid out as an introductory test. This text will cover the kinds of situations you've mentioned in your question.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Comprehensive Rules: &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; rules, in their most precise, complete, and authoritative expression. These are not designed to teach you the game; you will probably not be able to figure it out by sitting down and trying to read the comp rules straight through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;: a database of cards, including clarifications and rulings for individual cards. If you can't understand how to do what's written on the card, looking up the rulings on Gatherer will often tell you the answer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-10-20T23:16:06.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13259" CreationDate="2013-10-21T00:52:58.500" Score="16" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is fun but the rules are quite vague.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have you been reading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTG has the most precise &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; of any complex game. These are found in the Comprehensive Rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Comprehensive Rules are far more detailed than what you need, though. You should start with the Basic Rules. These are still far from vague.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is not clear whether a player can attack more than once (with different cards) in a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only have one combat phase per turn, but you can declare any number of attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Declare attackers step: You decide which, if any, of your untapped creatures will attack&#xA;and which player or planeswalker they will attack. Then they do&#xA;so. This taps the attacking creatures. Players can then cast instants&#xA;and activate abilities.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It isn't clear how tap abilities of cards related to attacking (if one attacks does one also get the tap ability - if so can it be used without attacking, and can it be used if not ones own turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking taps the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activating some abilities requires tapping the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there's an ability that says &quot;Whenever [something] is tapped&quot;, tapping doesn't cause anything to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An applicable metaphor is: You can't pay for two things using the same dollar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It isn't clear when a card says &quot;for each creature under your control&quot; whether that count includes creature tokens (which are &quot;creatures&quot; but are often treated separately in the text of cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature tokens are creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Creature&quot; not followed by &quot;spell&quot; or &quot;card&quot; means &quot;creature permanent&quot;. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. So a creature is a creature card or token on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An applicable metaphor is: A square building is square. A square building is a building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does life link only count damage to the other player or all damage to any creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter to what the damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lifelink: A keyword ability seen on permanents. Damage dealt by a&#xA;permanent with lifelink causes that permanent’s controller to&#xA;gain that much life, in addition to behaving like normal damage.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-05-29T16:25:31.123" LastActivityDate="2017-05-29T16:25:31.123" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13263" CreationDate="2013-10-21T01:00:50.147" Score="5" ViewCount="78219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lifelink typically says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lifelink &lt;em&gt;(Damage dealt by this creature also causes you to gain that much life.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I attack with a 5/5 creature which has Lifelink, and it's blocked by a 1/1 creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I gain 1 life or 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T04:35:11.887" Title="What happens with Lifelink when a creature's power exceeds its blocker's toughness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-05T22:22:23.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13262" CreationDate="2013-10-21T01:02:46.963" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will gain 5 life in that case.  Creatures assign and deal damage equal to their power in combat and do not &quot;Pull their punches&quot; if the blocker happens to have lower toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature assigns combat damage equal to its power. Creatures that would assign 0 or less damage this way don’t assign combat damage at all&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assign equal to power.&#xA;Deal what was assigned.&#xA;Size of defender does not factor into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T04:35:11.887" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T04:35:11.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13262" CreationDate="2013-10-21T01:06:02.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature attacks (or defends), it deals damage equal to its power. As such, a creature which has 5 power will deal 5 damage and you will gain 5 life. Only damage prevention (e.g. Protection) can reduce that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature assigns combat damage equal to its power. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T01:19:50.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13265" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-21T05:24:10.737" Score="11" ViewCount="11029" Body="&lt;p&gt;With an extremely large variety of Magic: The Gathering Cards that exist out there from so many sets and a loose definition of utility and value in the game, it's often hard to gauge a card's individual worth/price without checking it out online. Of course, the rarity is generally a good indicator, but there are plenty of &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=325179&quot;&gt;expensive common and uncommon cards&lt;/a&gt; too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is &lt;strong&gt;What is the most efficient way of determining card value without individually loking up each Magic card?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6003" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T13:10:10.440" Title="What's the most efficient way of determine individual card values for my collection?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13265" CreationDate="2013-10-21T08:33:41.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most time efficient way to sort the wheat from the chaff is hard to gauge, there are a number of different ways that will work for different people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option is to take a buylist from your preferred website, which will give you prices for most cards that are valuable. This lets you quickly look through a list of cards (often sorted in alphabetical order and set) all in one place, and check if its on the list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wont give you the ACTUAL value of your cards, but generally a buy list price indicates whether a card has much value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;many websites will also let you type in a list of cards and bring up their sale prices of each, which might be quicker depending on how quickly you can go through them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a further option would potentially be a mobile app, many apps have collection trackers where you can enter your entire collection and then traverse the list in the app to get values for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;whatever you choose, it will probably be pretty time consuming. Rather than going through your cards and comparing them against the web or a list, it might be better to try and learn as many commons and uncommons worth more than a specific threshold (e.g. $1) as possible, and then go through your collection looking for those specific cards, seperating out any rares and foils to check later. While there are plenty of commons and uncommons that are worth money, there arent so many that you cant have a good idea of what most of them are. having a threshold as low as $1 makes it significantly harder, but starting at $5 cuts out a huge number, and gets you most of the value in your collection quite quickly, before making further passes to pick out the rest, knowing you dont need to look for anything above $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T09:51:12.573" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T09:51:12.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13265" CreationDate="2013-10-21T15:07:36.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the online card manager &lt;a href=&quot;http://deckbox.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deckbox&lt;/a&gt; to be quite useful. It allows me to add any card to my inventory with a single click and will display prices, has some nice search and filtering functions and even provides a platform for deck building and trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6003" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T15:07:36.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13244" CreationDate="2013-10-21T16:25:52.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be incredibly difficult to mix the old base game with the new expansions. While similar, the rules and mechanics were completely redone for Rivals. It may be possible, but you'd probably need to reword most of the descriptions for all of the cards in either the base game or the expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you've done all of that, you'd have been much better off just spending the $15-20 to get a copy of Rivals instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="358" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T16:25:52.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13192" CreationDate="2013-10-21T17:42:23.460" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talk about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it; make the game a topic of conversation. Talk about it at random moments. Talk about your strategy when you're breaking out the game to play again. Talk about other players' moves while they're moving, and what plans they might be laying. Talk about how to break up an opponent's strategy, or even how to break up your own strategy. When the game ends, talk about how the winner pulled it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should try to avoid boring the other people to death, of course, but the mere act of hearing about how you can plan for (some particular game) will put more tools in their toolbox the next time they play. These &quot;non-strategic&quot; players haven't put much thought into how to win these games, and probably don't know &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you can do long-term planning for those games. Most games have a particular strategy that works well; some work best with purely-tactical moves, some work best when you've planned your strategy 15 turns ahead, some work with a mix of strategic planning and proper tactics as opportunities crop up. If you really want these players to improve, and they haven't figured it out themselves, &lt;em&gt;share your hard-earned insights into the game.&lt;/em&gt; Don't keep your secret game-winning strategy to yourself just because you're a knowledge miser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate, here are a few examples of things I didn't even realize were important until &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; after I started playing that particular game. (I make no claims to being a genius.) Withholding key insights from games can really cripple someone's ability to play well. Share some insights like these, and they'll start seeing how the game is more subtle than it initially looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Puerto Rico:&lt;/strong&gt; you can screw other players by choosing Captain to force players to ship their valuable trade goods, and Craftsman is frequently a bad move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Glory to Rome:&lt;/strong&gt; it's a bad idea to play Craftsman cards to lead the Craftsman role, because the player to your left will Patron, and pick up a Craftsman client. Playing Craftsman cards to follow the role is only a good move if the player to your right led the Craftsman action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dominion:&lt;/strong&gt; Coppers are bad, and should be actively removed if reasonably possible. If you want to afford Provinces, you really have to get your average-coins-per-card up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Race for the Galaxy:&lt;/strong&gt; I still don't understand how to do a proper mix of military and trading strategies. Sure, there are plenty of developments that support both, and no military tableau should &lt;em&gt;purely&lt;/em&gt; be military developments and military worlds, but the major source of victory points for a military strategy is the high-value military worlds, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Power Grid:&lt;/strong&gt; Don't buy a power plant every round; only do it when it's a significant improvement over what you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T17:45:19.857" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T17:45:19.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13272" CreationDate="2013-10-21T18:08:54.987" Score="13" ViewCount="16653" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I make a copy of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pack%20Rat&quot;&gt;Pack Rat&lt;/a&gt; using its ability, does that copy retain the mana cost, and thus increase my devotion to black by one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ie. I have nothing on the battlefield but one Pack Rat and some swamps. I discard a card to Pack Rat to create a copy of it. Is my devotion now equal to 1 or 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T20:37:40.340" Title="Do Pack Rat copies give devotion?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13270" CreationDate="2013-10-21T18:36:12.107" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes. Each of the Pack Rat copies will have a mana cost of 1B, which counts for devotion to black.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most tokens (like Elspeth's Soldier tokens) don't have a mana cost because the effect creating them doesn't specify one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pack Rat, however, creates a token that is a copy of the card, meaning that it gains all of the original card's &quot;copiable characteristics&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.2. When copying an object, &lt;strong&gt;the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object's characteristics&lt;/strong&gt; and, for an object on the stack, choices made when casting or activating it (mode, targets, the value of X, whether it was kicked, how it will affect multiple targets, and so on). &lt;strong&gt;The &quot;copiable values&quot; are the values derived from the text printed on the object&lt;/strong&gt; (that text being name, &lt;strong&gt;mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by &quot;as . . . enters the battlefield&quot; and &quot;as . . . is turned face up&quot; abilities that set characteristics, and by abilities that caused the object to be face down. Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-21T20:37:40.340" LastActivityDate="2013-10-21T20:37:40.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-22T00:48:31.183" Score="7" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;when exactly must a player choose to yield Tokyo? Today we had a game and the player in Tokyo took 1 attack and decided to stay in Tokyo. The player whose turn it was, then bought a card that dealt two damage to all other players. The player in Tokyo now decided to yield Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like the player must make this decision based on the dice resolution's results and not be able to change their mind after a card if purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are awfully unclear on this but do specify that a player can not decide to yield tokyo based on taking damage from a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6019" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T14:44:00.907" Title="King of Tokyo: Dice resolution -&gt; Yield -&gt; Card buying?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13273" CreationDate="2013-10-22T01:30:07.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what the rules have to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are attacked while in Tokyo&#xA;  and you don’t want to be there&#xA;  anymore (and who can blame you&#xA;  – it can be rough!) you can yield&#xA;  to the Monster that attacked (he&#xA;  has to take your place). You still&#xA;  take the damage, however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And close by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Warning: A Discard card that&#xA;  deals damage to you is not&#xA;  an attack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does he think he can leave at any point in the turn after he is attacked?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule says &quot;if you are attacked&quot;, not &quot;if you were attacked&quot;. Everyone with whom I've played has understood the first paragraph I quoted to mean one can only choose to cede Tokyo as one is attacked. There is no chance to leave Tokyo at any point until the monster in Tokyo is attacked again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does he think taking damage from a card is an attack?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second paragraph I quoted makes it clear it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T14:44:00.907" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T14:44:00.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13278" CreationDate="2013-10-22T11:49:25.050" Score="3" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCity%20in%20a%20Bottle%5d&quot;&gt;City in a Bottle&lt;/a&gt;, what cards are affected? I remember hearing something about a rules change revoking the set symbol as a characteristic, meaning that cards like this would affect all cards first printed in the Arabian Nights set, is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cant find anything in the rulings or on gatherer to that effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T10:05:42.913" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T10:05:42.913" Title="How does city in a bottle work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13276" CreationDate="2013-10-22T12:14:18.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the oracle rulings regarding City in a Bottle, found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=904&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;its Gatherer page&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Token creatures and counters created by Arabian Nights cards are not removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;City in a Bottle only affects cards with the Arabian Nights scimitar symbol on them, or permanents that are copies of those cards. It does not affect reprints of cards that originally came from the Arabian Nights expansion.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-22T13:01:06.740" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T13:01:06.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13276" CreationDate="2013-10-22T12:15:57.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rule 109.3 which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.3. An object’s characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype,  supertype, rules text, abilities,&#xA;  power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects &#xA;  can have some or all of these characteristics. Any other information&#xA;  about an object isn’t a  characteristic. For example, characteristics&#xA;  don’t include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell’s  target, an&#xA;  object’s owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that the expansions symbol on the card is no longer a characteristic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might explain it more: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/255c&amp;amp;page=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/255c&amp;amp;page=3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Expansion symbols are no longer a characteristic. Magic cards are&#xA;  recognized as individual game pieces by their English card names. One&#xA;  of the central tenets of that system is that all cards with the same&#xA;  name are considered the same for deck building and play purposes. This&#xA;  system lets us reprint cards, print promo cards, and have cards appear&#xA;  in many languages. But three older cards referred to cards from a&#xA;  specific expansion, and that runs contrary to the system. The Arabian&#xA;  Nights Bird Maiden and the Fourth Edition version should be the same,&#xA;  but City in a Bottle says they're not. In fact, it makes the original&#xA;  version worse!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So, cards will no longer refer to expansion symbol as a&#xA;  characteristic. &lt;strong&gt;The three cards that used to do this (City in a&#xA;  Bottle, Golgothian Sylex, and Apocalypse Chime) will receive errata in&#xA;  a future update to refer to cards &quot;originally printed&quot; in the Arabian&#xA;  Nights, Antiquities, and Homelands sets, respectively).&lt;/strong&gt; This means&#xA;  that City in a Bottle no longer affects any cards named Mountain. It&#xA;  also means that those three cards can affect cards that were in the&#xA;  appropriate set and then reprinted. City in a Bottle will affect the&#xA;  aforementioned Fourth Edition Bird Maiden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5984" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T12:15:57.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13280" CreationDate="2013-10-22T12:33:04.217" Score="9" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puerto Rico is generally considered as a game of mostly skill, with very little luck involved. In this regard, it is more like chess or checkers, than the typical board game that uses cards or dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only random factor I know of in Puerto Rico is the fact that the plantation tiles are initially turned face down, and shuffled, then a number of them are turned face up and made available, with redraws from the face down pile as the game progresses. In theory, this could lead to one of each plantation being made available at any given time, but it could also lead to a (random) abundance of some, and an absence of other choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What (if any) other random or luck features exist in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T21:29:24.457" Title="What are the random/luck factors in Puerto Rico?" Tags="|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13279" CreationDate="2013-10-22T13:30:24.653" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first random thing that happens in Puerto Rico is turn order.  This can be offset by having players bid on seats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing with the expansion, then the buildings available are randomized. This can also help to prevent the game from being solvable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are the plantation tiles as described in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you are playing with more than 1 other person, player actions are, in a way, a randomization.  Some moves become better if your opponents act perfectly logically, others are better if your opponents make mistakes, and you can't know what they will do.  This is unlike chess (or a 2 player Puerto Rico game) where your opponent making a mistake cannot be a detriment to your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, Puerto Rico is a very low luck game with all randomization being &quot;input randomization&quot;.  This means that all random factors are chosen early in player decision, and by the time a player acts, they will know the result of at least that action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2020-02-11T21:29:24.457" LastActivityDate="2020-02-11T21:29:24.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13282" CreationDate="2013-10-22T13:54:14.623" Score="5" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the runner &lt;em&gt;bypasses&lt;/em&gt; an ICE behind a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/chum-core&quot;&gt;Chum&lt;/a&gt; (subroutine not broken) with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/femme-fatale-core&quot;&gt;Femme Fatale&lt;/a&gt;, does Chum's subroutine trigger and deal three netdamage to the runner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T16:40:07.387" Title="Does bypassing an ICE trigger Chum's subroutine?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13281" CreationDate="2013-10-22T16:40:07.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have encountered the next ice and so you will take 3 net damage if you don't break its subroutines. As you are bypassing the ice you will not have a chance to break the subroutines and so will take the 3 net damage as soon as the encounter ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is explained the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ From FFG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-10-22T16:40:07.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13289" CreationDate="2013-10-23T12:13:25.150" Score="0" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16496/roma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roma&lt;/a&gt;, the card Essedum reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The defense value of the opponent's face-up cards is reduced by 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long does this effect last?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only for the current turn?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or for the rest of the game?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If so, how are you supposed to keep track of the effected cards (since cards played later are not affected)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T13:26:45.873" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:04:49.593" Title="How long does Essedum's effect last?" Tags="|roma|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13284" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-23T13:25:47.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stefan Feld's &lt;em&gt;Roma&lt;/em&gt; is a game featuring unique card and dice play. Rome is in a state of emergency, the Senate and the Guard are embroiled in fierce arguments, the people are divided. Many roads lead to Rome, whether you decide to use powerful cards such as the Tower and the Praetorian Guard to protect the power and victory points you have, or instead prefer to use the Consul and the Tribune to skilfully pull the strings behind the scenes. Whoever succeeds in using their connections and manages to play their cards cleverly will at the end deserve their victor's laurels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was first published in 2005 by Queen Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16496/roma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T23:02:50.840" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T23:02:50.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13285" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-23T13:25:47.247" Score="0" Body="Stefan Feld's Roma, a game featuring unique card and dice play." OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T13:25:47.247" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T13:25:47.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13286" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-23T13:32:52.527" Score="2" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Ricochet&quot;&gt;Wild Ricochet&lt;/a&gt; onto a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clan%20Defiance&quot;&gt;Clan Defiance&lt;/a&gt;. My Clan Defiance targets flying, non flying and player: can I redirect all of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I do, can I choose the target to be all on the player or do the new targets have to be under same targeting rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6023" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T14:06:34.727" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T14:30:08.967" Title="Wild ricochet and clan defiance?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13286" CreationDate="2013-10-23T13:47:02.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can redirect all those targets. Wild Ricochet says &quot;choose new targets&quot; (plural), not &quot;choose a new target&quot; (singular).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you can't choose to target a player with all three effects. You still have to follow the targeting rules on the card, the same way the original caster had to - Wild Ricochet doesn't make you exempt to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T13:47:02.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13286" CreationDate="2013-10-23T13:51:08.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The choice of mode (&quot;Choose one or more&quot;) cannot be changed.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 114.7]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of targets cannot be changed.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 114.6a]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any number of the targets can be changed (including zero).&lt;sup&gt;[CR 114.6c]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The targeting conditions still apply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the original spell targeted a flying creature and a player, the copy must also target a flying creature and a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or in the example you gave, the copy will also have to target a flying creature, a non-flying creature and a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T14:30:08.967" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T14:30:08.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13283" CreationDate="2013-10-23T18:04:49.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card has an action dice symbol in the upper right.  This means that it takes one dice to activate the card and it is only in effect while it has a dice.  I'm not sure why you say &quot;Cards played later are not affected&quot;.  For example, the Turris does not require a dice to be active, so it adds 1 to the defense of all the player's face-up cards for as long as it is in play, whether they were played before or after the Turris.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T18:04:49.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13291" CreationDate="2013-10-23T18:46:05.217" Score="4" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a number of illusion creatures on the board. Let's just say they're &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantasmal%20Bear&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Bear&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; on one bear. I then respond to my own bolt with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Ricochet&quot;&gt;Wild Ricochet&lt;/a&gt;, which gives my original bolt a new target, and copies the bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming my original bolt targeted Bear A, and I redirected it to Bear B, and I target Bear C with the copied bolt, are all three bears sacrificed by my opponent? When does that sacrifice have to take place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="20266" LastEditDate="2019-06-06T16:31:21.953" LastActivityDate="2019-06-06T16:31:21.953" Title="How many illusions will Lightning Bolt and Wild Ricochet get rid of?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2013-10-23T19:03:08.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, all three bears are sacrificed, as they were all at some point the target of a spell or ability.  Because the stack is &amp;quot;last in, first out,&amp;quot; spells &amp;amp; abilities resolve in the opposite order that they were placed on the stack; thus, the order of events after resolving Wild Ricochet is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bears B and C are sacrificed.  The order in which this happens is decided by their controller immediately after Wild Ricochet resolves, but it doesn't have to be carried out immediately, and actions may be taken after sacrificing one and before sacrificing the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The copy of the Lightning Bolt tries to resolve, and it fizzles due to lack of a living target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bear A is sacrificed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The original Lightning Bolt tries to resolve and fizzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional spells &amp;amp; abilities may be cast/activated and resolved in between these steps, but (unless the Bears die earlier, or a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; or the like is involved), they can only delay the sacrifices, not eliminate them or change their order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T19:13:36.523" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T19:13:36.523" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13290" CreationDate="2013-10-23T19:49:51.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with&#xA;  the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as&#xA;  &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bear's ability is a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that's not a card the next time a player would&#xA;  receive priority. See rule 116, &quot;Timing and Priority.&quot; The ability&#xA;  becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the&#xA;  ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on&#xA;  the stack until it's countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be&#xA;  removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you cast the lightning bolt, you are a player and you get priority, bear A's sacrifice ability is put on the stack. You still have priority. You cast the ricochet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the stack looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wild Ricochet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BearA Sacrifice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if everyone passes, wild ricochet resolves. As it resolves you choose to target bears B and C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the stack looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BearB/C Sacrifice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BearB/C Sacrifice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(copy) Lightning Bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BearA Sacrifice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all players pass priority after each ability resolves then the bears would be sacrificed in the order you see on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between each sacrifice ability resolving, priority passes and players can add to the top of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes all three are sacrificed, and none of them are actually dealt any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-10-23T20:26:29.310" LastActivityDate="2013-10-23T20:26:29.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13295" CreationDate="2013-10-24T04:15:38.037" Score="3" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the Runner accesses cards from the Corporation's HQ, does the Corporation get to know which cards were accessed, or are they returned to the HQ before the Corporation sees them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6025" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T04:17:36.670" Title="Can the Corporation know which HQ cards were accessed?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13294" CreationDate="2013-10-24T04:17:36.670" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Netrunner FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the Corp know which cards the Runner accesses from HQ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The Corp should know what cards are accessed and in what order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6025" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T04:17:36.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13297" CreationDate="2013-10-24T09:42:30.623" Score="3" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the runner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/femme-fatale-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Femme Fatale&lt;/a&gt; that targets a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/data-raven-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Data Raven&lt;/a&gt; and make a run on a server that is protected by that Data Raven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I encouter the Data Raven, both cards trigger (&lt;em&gt;When you encounter that ice&lt;/em&gt;.../&lt;em&gt;When the Runner encounters Data Raven&lt;/em&gt;...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I choose in which order the effects apply (so I can choose to take the tag from Data Raven, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; bypass it with Femme Fatale)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is the order of effects fixed (first the effects of runner cards, then the effects of corporation cards, since it's the runner's turn)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T10:09:18.317" Title="Can the active player choose the order of simultaneous effects?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13296" CreationDate="2013-10-24T10:09:18.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The order is fixed. First the active player (the one who's turn it is) chooses the order for their own simultaneous effects (if any) then the other player chooses the order for theirs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you cannot take the tag and then bypass, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; bypass first, or not bypass and take the tag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T10:09:18.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13305" CreationDate="2013-10-24T13:09:56.847" Score="7" ViewCount="2788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the card parasite can potentially trash ice, but is there any other way? (I've just recently started playing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6028" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T08:38:29.640" Title="What can a Runner do to trash ICE that is in play?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13302" CreationDate="2013-10-24T14:29:06.643" Score="2" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing last night, and the following situation arose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a creature out with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Mantle&quot;&gt;Dragon Mantle&lt;/a&gt; on it, which allows me to spend a red mana to give it +1/+0. My opponent wants to swing in with his larger creature, but doesn't want to have his large creature die to me pumping up my small one with Dragon Mantle. He's holding a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Destructive%20Revelry&quot;&gt;Destructive Revelry&lt;/a&gt;. Is there a time he can play it such that I fail to pump my creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he plays it before I start pumping, I can pump in response and I will succeed as my pumps will resolve before the enchantment is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he plays it after I start pumping, my pumps are already on the stack and will still resolve after the enchantment is destroyed. (I am not 100% sure about this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Are there situations where he can succeed? (i.e. if the wording on the enchantment was slightly different)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T13:06:33.007" Title="Is it possible to destroy Dragon Mantle without the owner successfully activating it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13299" CreationDate="2013-10-24T14:47:29.323" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both are correct. If you pump it all the way (no mana left), he can respond to it and destroy the creature. Every time you pump, the ability goes on the stack. If you react with a pump to a pump (before the firest pump resolves), it stays on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to play this is pump 1 time, and let it resolve. Then pump another time, let that one resolve. If someone tries to burn the creature you can respond with the rest of the &quot;pumps&quot;. This is your way to retain your creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you say, &quot;pump x times&quot;, it goes on the stack x-times, and they resolve one by one. After every pump that &quot;resolves&quot;, your opponent can respond, so in that situation, your opponent can successfully destroy your creature (if the toughness is less or equal to the damage of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second understanding is correct. If the ability is on the stack, and the Dragon Mantle is destroyed, the abilities (pumps) are still on the stack, so they still resolve as long as the targeted creature is in the battlefield. If your creature left the battlefield before resolving, the remaining &quot;pumps&quot; fizzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2013-10-24T14:47:29.323" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13299" CreationDate="2013-10-24T14:55:41.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;He cannot prevent you from pumping it. As you say, you can either pump on your own or pump in response to the destruction, either way the pumps will resolve and his creature will die. The only way to prevent this is to kill the creature it's attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the enchantment was to read &amp;quot;R: Enchanted creature gets +1/+0 until end of turn as long as ~ is attached to it&amp;quot; then things would work as your opponent would want. Obviously this isn't the case, and I am not aware of a card that functions in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if he has priority and you have not pumped yet, he can prevent you from activating it with a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krosan%20Grip&quot;&gt;Krosan Grip&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T13:06:33.007" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T13:06:33.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13298" CreationDate="2013-10-24T19:32:27.397" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the only three current cards that can trash ICE after it's installed are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/parasite-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Parasite&lt;/a&gt; - program that reduces the strength of a rezzed ICE until it hits zero, at which point the ICE is trashed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/forged-activation-orders-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forged Activation Orders&lt;/a&gt; - event that forces a Corp to rez an ice, or trash it if it can't (or doesn't want to) pay for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/genesis/humanitys-shadow/kraken-humanitys-shadow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kraken&lt;/a&gt; - event that forces the Corp to trash a piece of ice on a server that you choose (but can only be played if you've just stolen an agenda)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there are other cards (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/imp-what-lies-ahead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Imp&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/demolition-run-core&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Demolition Run&lt;/a&gt;) that can trash cards that cannot normally be trashed - such as ICE - from HQ or R&amp;amp;D, preventing them from being installed in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edited to add:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04007&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;False Echo&lt;/a&gt; - program that can be trashed when you pass an unrezzed ICE to force the Corp to rez it or take it back into HQ (which is a trash-like effect)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/07037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Forked&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/07038&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Knifed&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/07039&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spooned&lt;/a&gt; - run events that let you trash a piece of ice of a particular type if you break all subroutines on it&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T08:38:29.640" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T08:38:29.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-24T22:37:16.717" Score="3" ViewCount="12731" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently, I was dealt a hand with a high card point and distribution too strong to open 1 NT but not enough to bid 2 of a suit, i.e. in &quot;no man's land&quot;.  Any advice you can provide about how I should open the bidding with such a hand would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6031" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T12:54:52.247" Title="In bridge, what opening bid(s) should be made with a high card point in &quot;no man's land&quot;?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2013-10-25T03:25:37.927" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hand &quot;too strong to open 1 NT but not enough to bid 2 of a suit&quot; is of two possible ranges of interest: 18-19 and 20-21. If we are talking a balanced hand with (according to the most common partnership agreements) at worst Kx or Qxx in every suit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18-19 points opens one of a suit (preferably a minor) and jumps to 2NT as a rebid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20-21 opens 2NT&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the hand is unbalanced then it opens one of a suit and either jump-shifts as a rebid with 20+ points, or reverses as rebid with 18+. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't get in the habit of opening hands 1NT that are unsuitable for notrump play, just because they fall in the 15-17 point range; you sill seriously stunt your development as a bridge player, and alienate potential partners. There is a very good reason why Victor Mollo called the member of his menagerie prone to such bids the &lt;em&gt;Hideous Hog&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T03:25:37.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13316" CreationDate="2013-10-25T13:06:27.380" Score="8" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing a bit with Go and after a few games I do get pretty well the different rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game indeed has a very deep strategy and I've read that to get a grip at that strategy, a player should starts on small boards (5x5, 9x9).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing with an application on my iPad that lets me choose for handicap to help me improve slowly. The problem is, when playing with a lot of handicap I do win pretty easily but when I get less than 6 stones at the start of the game I quickly feel like I'm losing territory at each one of the IA moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there tutorial on basic strategy? What to avoid? What to look for? I've also practiced with some Go problems and I do understand them quite well... I have the feeling that I'm improving. In a game context, I'm really overwhelmed with possibilities when I need to put my stones on the board and I really don't have the feeling that I'm improving...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2392" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T18:54:03.563" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T11:38:05.260" Title="How to begin learning Go?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14350" CreationDate="2013-10-25T13:09:41.103" Score="3" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;If gas markers have been placed on adjacent squares, what happens when one of the gas markers is ignited (e.g. by shooting it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Background:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were playing &lt;em&gt;Defend The Manor House&lt;/em&gt;, I had placed one gas marker inside the Manor House and another one outside on an adjacent square. I wanted to ignite the gas marker that was outside and have it trigger the one inside too (I couldn't trigger the one inside the house directly because walls block ranged weapons). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We looked in the rules but couldn't find anything related to multiple gas markers. In the end I missed when I threw the lighter at the first gas marker so we didn't have to resolve this. The heroes lost on the next turn when the 9th zombie entered the Manor House.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T20:48:44.033" Title="Can I set up a chain reaction by placing gas markers on adjacent squares?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13312" CreationDate="2013-10-25T13:29:48.683" Score="2" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;em&gt;Old Betsy&lt;/em&gt; is placed on the board and &lt;em&gt;dynamite&lt;/em&gt; is subsequently thrown onto that space or a &lt;em&gt;gas marker&lt;/em&gt; in that space is ignited, what happens to &lt;em&gt;Old Betsy&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;em&gt;dynamite&lt;/em&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Roll a D6 for each model in that space. Zombies are Killed on the roll&#xA;  of 2+. Any Hero in that space is Killed on the roll of 5+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;em&gt;Old Betsy&lt;/em&gt; automatically survive, or does she count as a Hero in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T15:25:23.367" Title="Is Old Betsy immune to dynamite and gasoline?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13265" CreationDate="2013-10-25T15:20:35.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you didn't want to go online, you can go to a local gaming store and get them appraised. A good gaming store should be able to list out what each card is worth and what they are willing to buy it for. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T15:20:35.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13310" CreationDate="2013-10-25T15:25:23.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Old betsy will survive. The only things affected are those listed on the card (zombies and heroes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T15:25:23.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13315" CreationDate="2013-10-25T16:15:38.303" Score="9" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am the runner and on a run I encounter a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/chum-core&quot;&gt;Chum&lt;/a&gt;, but I don't break its subroutine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I encounter the next piece of ICE which happens to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/genesis/cyber-exodus/woodcutter-cyber-exodus&quot;&gt;Woodcutter&lt;/a&gt; (rezzed with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/genesis/a-study-in-static/oversight-ai-a-study-in-static&quot;&gt;Oversight AI&lt;/a&gt;) without advancement counters and thus no subroutines. I pass it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I broken all subroutines on the Woodcutter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If yes, I don't get three netdamage from Chum and the Woodcutter is trashed alongside the Oversight AI.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If no, I get the three netdamage from Chum and Woodcutter is not trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard that you don't take the damage, and that Woodcutter is not trashed. But why should it be like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T16:41:50.880" Title="Oversight AI Woodcutter behind a Chum" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13314" CreationDate="2013-10-25T16:35:58.163" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;At one point there was a rules ruling via e-mail that it wouldn't be trashed to OverSight AI, and separately that Chum wouldn't do the damage. In the latest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; It has been clarified that this didn't make sense, and so for consistency &quot;all&quot; would apply to &quot;0&quot; and so all the subroutines are broken, and so chum does not do damage and oversight AI means the ice is trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;“All”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The word “all” includes the number zero.&#xA;  Example:&#xA;  The Corporation plays an OversightAI&#xA;  and rezzes a Woodcutter. The Runner encounters the Woodcutter while it has&#xA;  zero subroutines. The Runner is considered to have broken all the&#xA;  subroutines on the Woodcutter, and the ice is trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Previously, it was decided that since there were no subroutines the number broken was unknowable and so effects wouldn't trigger, but that gets rather confusing rather quickly with rules effectively throwing null pointer exceptions!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-10-25T16:41:50.880" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T16:41:50.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13308" CreationDate="2013-10-25T19:07:55.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lots of tutorials. Playing games making mistakes, and learning from them is the way to improve. However, when you're just starting, you make so many mistakes that it can be overwhelming. This is where having a human teacher or a book can help, because they can give you specific things to work on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep your app, but playing just against a computer is not a good way to get strong at Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Books for beginners:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Janice Kim has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/1453632891&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;series of books for beginners&lt;/a&gt; that I found &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; helpful when starting out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Find local players:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advanced players are usually happy to play a teaching game or give a short lesson. You will, of course, find that some are better teachers than others. I'd recommend searching for &amp;quot; go baduk&amp;quot; (baduk is the Korean name for Go, and is a much more helpful term for search engines).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Play against people online:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;KGS&lt;/a&gt; is a popular Go server, and in the Beginners Room and such you can find people willing to play teaching games. Sometimes the best teacher is someone who is only a little better than you, because they have a similar perspective as you do. (There's lots of other Go servers if you don't like KGS, &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GoServers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Online resources:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensei's Library is a popular Go wiki, and they have a nice set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?PagesForBeginners&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pages for beginners&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-25T19:07:55.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13334" CreationDate="2013-10-25T19:29:04.540" Score="8" ViewCount="1850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching Wil Wheaton playing Betrayal at House on the Hill, and someone commented:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CKQtj.png&quot; alt=&quot;A comment from youtube&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the Rabbits foot, or the Angels Feather (or anything else) avert the haunt? I can't see why not, but this seems like a special case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T02:48:26.897" Title="Can you affect the Haunt roll with items, omens or other effects in Betrayal at House on the Hill?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13325" CreationDate="2013-10-26T08:57:29.183" Score="3" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started playing Ascension Storm of Souls. Since i have no previous experience from other card games like this, i find the description of some of the rules to be not quite as clear and precise as i would have liked. Which, to some extent, might be explained by the fact that English is not my mother tounge. Anyways..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing a about ten games, i think that most of my questions have been worked out. But one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the cards have effects that are worded like:&#xA;Example 1 - &quot;Gain 2 runes. The next time you acquire a Hero this turn, you may put it on top of your deck.&quot; or &#xA;Example 2 - &quot;Gain 1 rune. You pay 1 rune less the next time you acquire a Hero this turn.&quot; or &#xA;Example 3 -&quot;You may destroy this to pay 2 runes less the next time you acquire a Mechana Construct this turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should &quot;the next time you do X in this turn&quot; be understood? In example 1 do i get the effect for the second Hero i acquire during that turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my reading comprehension dosen't fail me completely, that's what i think it says. But, if so, then i almost never get to use those effects, because i rarely acquire more than one hero per turn. Which makes me believe that I just maybe is reading it wrong.. and that the effects are supposed to be read when i draw them from the card and put them out on the table in front of me. Which would mean that &quot;the next time you acquire a Hero/destroy a construct etc&quot; is actually the first time i acquire/destroy something, because &quot;next&quot; i just refering to a later time in the same round...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Śo, which is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6042" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T06:05:39.467" Title="what is &quot;the next time in this round&quot; in Ascension?" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13320" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-26T08:59:18.300" Score="3" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue came up in a game of Cosmic Encounter tonight and we were unsure how to resolve it.  The wild effect on the Sorcerer flare card allows the player to force the two main players (offense and defense) to swap powers. It then says this swap continues after the encounter is over.  We took this to mean that the swap is permanent, which is pretty freaking powerful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, adding to the confusion was that the defending player only had two of his home planets colonized at the time, meaning that his power was removed at that time because his race was &quot;non-viable.&quot;  The attacker had three of his home planets, so his power was active.  We could not agree on whether this meant the defending player would get to use the offensive player's power, while the offensive player would have no power (because the defending player &quot;traded&quot; his non-power), or whether the powers would swap but then the defending player would lose it immediately because they still only had two home planets colonized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, is the trade really permanent?  That seems like a very powerful ability to be Wild, especially when the Super ability for the Sorcerer on the same card is relatively weak (allows them to use their ability to swap Encounter cards even as an ally)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6043" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T19:37:33.293" Title="How does the Sorcerer flare card work with non-viable races in Cosmic Encounter?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13306" CreationDate="2013-10-26T15:50:25.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As strong as your hand is, it is not strong enough to do much unless partner responds. Once that happens, you have probably the makings of a potential game contract if there is a fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One problem with the description of your hand is that it encompasses a fairly wide range, from 18-21 high card points (HCP).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 18-19 points, I would bid one of any five card suit, especially a five card major, but one of a &quot;short&quot; minor otherwise. This allows partner to respond with 1 at a higher suit, or 1NT, showing at least 6 HCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner responds &quot;one over one,&quot; you can go to 2NT with a balanced hand. Partner will raise you to 3NT (or four of a six card major suit) unless he has the bare minimum 6-7 HCP, in which case he will sign off by passing or going to three of his suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had bid a five card major, and partner raises to two, you should raise to three. Partner will take you to four with anything more than 6-7 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 20-21 points, you open directly with 2NT, assuming that the hand is balanced. If it's unbalanced, bid one of a suit, as above, and then &quot;play it by ear.&quot; Use &quot;strength showing bids&quot; such as jump shifts or reverses to show your extra values. Partner will take you to game unless he has the bare minimum 6-7, or there is a misfit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner shows a suit at the one level (four cards and at least six HCP), you can go directly to 3NT with 20-21, and a balanced hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T15:50:25.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6745" CreationDate="2013-10-26T17:44:56.100" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, yes and yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1) Staying as a pawn would be inconvenient, I don't know the answer, but on computer games you can't .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2) Yes, or what's the point of the use&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q3) Lots of people promote pawns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5595" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T17:44:56.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13320" CreationDate="2013-10-26T19:37:33.293" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The change is permanent. (Yes, it is powerful, but Wild flares are often powerful; frequently more powerful than the Super, which is usually just an enhancement to the base power.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that the change is permanent also helps to clarify your question. The defender isn't using the attacker's power; the defender is using their own power, which happens to be the power the attacker started the challenge with. Since it's their own power, its usage is controlled by the number of their home bases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2013-10-26T19:37:33.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13319" CreationDate="2013-10-27T06:05:39.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you buy the card in Example 1, you don't get 2 runes. Why would you think that &quot;The next time you...&quot; is applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these things happen when you &lt;strong&gt;play&lt;/strong&gt; the cards, not when you buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many times, the order in which you play cards from your hand does not matter. Bt if you are planning to buy two cards in a turn after playing the card from Example 1, make sure the one that you buy first is the one that you want to go on top of your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T06:05:39.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2013-10-27T11:56:21.963" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition there is not one standard system where higher bids means higher points- either you were taught badly or weren't  really listening to your teacher. 2 level bids in traditional ACOL with strong 2s were stronger than 1 level bids but 3 level bids are preempts and are weaker than 1 level openings. Any system where higher level means stronger is difficult to use.      &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T11:56:21.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3676" CreationDate="2013-10-27T12:30:51.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The preference for takeout doubles particularly with regard to competitive auctions like 1,2 and 3 is due to the likelihood of having either a straight out penalty hand or one that wishes to play in another suit- the latter is judged to far more likely.&#xA;You could also end up playing in no-trumps when opponents could make or just go down not enough doubled to make missing a no-trumps game worthwhile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As dpmattingly noted its quite fine to do what you and your partner agree to- just realise the chances of missing a decent contract are quite high.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case 3. Means you are showing one or both minors.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note just because you play takeout doubles doesn't preclude you from penalising opponent's overcall, you might make a takeout double and partner decides to leave it in as a penalty (usually a strong hand with at least 4 cards in their suit)  or your partner can do a reopening double with a good hand and usually a shortage in opponent's suit which you can pass because you wanted to penalise your opponent's overcall. I am continuing from your examples where you a responding bidder and your partner is opening.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastActivityDate="2013-10-27T12:30:51.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13337" CreationDate="2013-10-27T22:47:47.013" Score="8" ViewCount="3176" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkHwM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Master of Waves&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L3Not.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nykthos, Shrine to Nyx&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/ptths13/welcome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pro Tour Theros&lt;/a&gt; was full of successful devotion decks, with mono-black, mono-red, Gruul, and mono-blue &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/ptths13/Top_8_Decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;all represented in the top 8&lt;/a&gt;, and the finals being decided by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/ptths13/finals&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a blue mirror&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom is that multicolor decks are optimal in competitive Magic due to their broader access to powerful cards, with the occasional exception of an ultra-fast consistent mono-color aggro or combo deck (like RDW or High Tide). And Theros Standard is a format mainly consisting of a multi-color block full of powerful gold cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLoxodon%20Smiter%5d&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSphinx%27s%5d%2b%5bRevelation%5d&quot;&gt;Sphinx&amp;#39;s Revelation&lt;/a&gt;, and decent multi-color manabases based on shocklands, scrylands, and guildgates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the dominant decks at PT Theros all seem to be rather midrange-y de-facto-mono-color lists. Why did that happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What aspects of the Standard card pool and metagame made Pro Tour Theros an ideal environment for devotion-powered decks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T18:12:24.737" Title="Why did devotion decks dominate PT Theros?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2013-10-28T01:39:19.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group plays a game of Werewolf, we call our holiday version Santa vs. the Grinch, that is combined with the gift exchange. Here is the link to that file on BoardGameGeek.com:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/50348/grinchwolf-gift-exchange-for-30-or-less-players&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/50348/grinchwolf-gift-exchange-for-30-or-less-players&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It's fun and handles a good size group, up to 30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6050" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T01:39:19.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13333" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:20:18.627" Score="6" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was having an argument with a friend, and couldn't really resolve the issue via google.  Let's say, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantom%20Flock&quot;&gt;Phantom Flock&lt;/a&gt; (&amp;quot;If damage would be dealt to Phantom Flock, prevent that damage. Remove a +1/+1 counter from Phantom Flock.&amp;quot;) is on the field, along with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aven%20Brigadier&quot;&gt;Aven Brigadier&lt;/a&gt; out, giving Phantom flock +2/+2. So the Phantom Flock is a 5/5, with 3 +1/+1 counters, and the buff from the Aven Brigadier.  Let's assuming then that I deal damage three times to the Phantom Flock, making it a 2/2.  If I then deal two more damage to it, does it die, or is the damage still prevented, removing an &amp;quot;invisible&amp;quot; +1/+1 counter from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6051" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T02:39:47.467" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T02:42:23.210" Title="Does Phantom Flock still prevent damage if it has no counters left?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:35:54.943" Score="8" ViewCount="11598" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're learning to play Bridge from Gramma, who played the game a lot ~40 years ago but doesn't really remember the rules (or, at least, the &lt;em&gt;reasons&lt;/em&gt; behind some rules and conventions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things she's adamant about is that the dummy sits the hand out completely, not to touch the cards at all once they're face up on the table.  The rest of us newbies think this is kind of silly - while we know the dummy shouldn't be offering advice, we figure he could could at least &lt;em&gt;handle&lt;/em&gt; the cards and play what the leader tells him to play, and (when there's no choice to be made, like when there's only 1 possible card to play), just do the mechanical stuff that requires no decision making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the limitations placed on the dummy player?  Are there etiquette rules about what he can and cannot do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:57:49.450" Title="What can the dummy player do in Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13331" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:42:23.210" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage is still prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=34932&quot;&gt;Gatherer rulings&lt;/a&gt; even mention this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The damage prevention ability works even if it has no counters, as long as some effect keeps its toughness above zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens because whenever you can't do everything a card says to do, you do as much as you can. (As the rules, say, &quot;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&quot;) The card says to prevent the damage, so it's prevented. It also says to remove a +1/+1 counter, and there's not, so you don't remove one. Oh well. This is the same reason that if something says sacrifice three creatures, and you only have one, you still sacrifice that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead the card said &quot;If damage would be dealt to Phantom Flock, remove a +1/+1 counter from Phantom Flock. If you do, prevent that damage.&quot; you &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be able to kill it with damage once the counters were gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T02:42:23.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13317" CreationDate="2013-10-28T02:48:26.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both the Rabbit's Foot and the Angel Feather have extremely generic text; the Rabbit's Foot says &lt;em&gt;once during your turn, you may reroll one die;&lt;/em&gt; the Angel Feather says &lt;em&gt;When you attempt a roll of any kind...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only restriction I can see is that both the Rabbit's Foot and the Angel Feather must be used by the player who revealed the Omen card and is making the Haunt roll. Both of those items specifically restrict the affected roll to the owner's rolls. The rules state that a Haunt roll is made at the &lt;em&gt;end&lt;/em&gt; of your turn, but that means it's still your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: &lt;strong&gt;Yes, the owner of those items may affect a haunt roll that the owner makes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T02:48:26.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2013-10-28T04:11:22.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dummy can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give information about what has happened when the director is called&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;keep track of the tricks won or lost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play his cards according to what declarer says&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when declarer doesn't follow a suit, he can ask him whether he has no cards in that suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dummy cannot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;call director&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;communicate with the declarer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;see opponent's or declarer's cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T04:11:22.637" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2013-10-28T05:22:27.053" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conventional wisdom is that multicolor decks are optimal in competitive Magic due to their broader access to powerful cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of it is that devotion breaks that conventional wisdom, because it actively rewards you for playing lots of cards with identically colored mana symbols. The power level of the main devotion engines — &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Waves&quot;&gt;Master of Waves&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fanatic%20of%20Mogis&quot;&gt;Fanatic of Mogis&lt;/a&gt; — is high enough (when you have significant devotion) that it overwhelms the benefit of running multiple colors. For example, if you already have 5 devotion to blue, then Master of Waves gives you 6 2/1 creatures for four mana. Nothing in RTR block is nearly that good, even when you can put multiple colors together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the high potential power level of e.g. Master of Waves wouldn't matter if you had to run otherwise terrible cards to enable it. But the cards that have lots of colored mana in their mana costs, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nightveil%20Specter&quot;&gt;Nightveil Specter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Reckoner&quot;&gt;Boros Reckoner&lt;/a&gt;, tend to be reasonably powerful anyway, which is related to the fact that they're normally so hard to cast. Devotion was just the extra benefit these cards needed to elevate them from fringe playables to core cards of the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-28T06:46:59.937" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T06:46:59.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5703" CreationDate="2013-10-28T08:47:44.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are lots of small presents, you could play a Coloretto-style game with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players take it in turns to reveal (or unwrap?) a small present. They add them to one of N heaps (where N is the number of players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of revealing on their turn, a player can claim a heap and remove themselves from the game. The remaining players continue until the only remaining player takes the last heap (plus any unassigned presents if there are any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give each participant a total budget and a number of items they should get (which don't have to be equal in value) and bring them wrapped, or use standard playing cards to identify them and play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T08:47:44.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8292" CreationDate="2013-10-28T08:49:33.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merrimac coup is not just for defenders. Declarer can do it too. Supposing one opponent has preempted at the three level and your partner doubled and you bid 3NT holding two covers in the preempt suit with say AKx. Naturally they lead the preempt suit. You have a suit race- do they set up their long suit or do you set up all your tricks. You hope that the preempter has a particular ace or something like that holding Kx versus J10xx, you lead the king hoping that preempter has either to cash his trick or just surrender and let you keep the trick so you can add others in other suits to make game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can guess to have to do the Merrimac Coup for closed hand say the bidding goes 3C,-,3H,-,3NT, all pass. You have one stopper in clubs (or else you hope partner has a stopper) and then you or your partner wins the lead (unlikely for there to be chances any later than the first trick. Dummy has two suits covered well and a third suit not well covered. The third suit is the one you lead as its likely the closed hand has the entry to knocked out.This assumes that the long suit (clubs) is not immediately run-able- e.g. missing an ace or a king offside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastEditorUserId="5962" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T00:27:28.387" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T00:27:28.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2013-10-28T09:47:01.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Source - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebu.co.uk/documents/laws-and-ethics/laws/laws.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The 2007 Laws of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt; (pdf)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LAW 42: DUMMY’S RIGHTS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Absolute Rights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dummy is entitled to give information, in the Director’s presence, as to fact or law.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He may keep count of tricks won and lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He plays the cards of the dummy as declarer’s agent as directed (see Law 45F if dummy suggests a play).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B. Qualified Rights&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dummy may exercise other rights subject to the limitations stated in&#xA;  Law 43:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dummy may ask declarer (but not a defender) when he has failed to follow suit to a trick whether he has a card of the suit led.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He may try to prevent any irregularity by declarer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He may draw attention to any irregularity, but only after play of the hand is concluded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LAW 43: DUMMY’S LIMITATIONS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Except as Law 42 allows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Limitations on Dummy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(a) Unless attention has been drawn to an irregularity by another player, dummy should not initiate a call for the Director during play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) Dummy may not call attention to an irregularity during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(c) Dummy must not participate in the play, nor may he communicate&#xA;  anything about the play to declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(a) Dummy may not exchange hands with declarer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(b) Dummy may not leave his seat to watch declarer’s play of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(c) Dummy may not, on his own initiative, look at the face of a card&#xA;  in either defender’s hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T09:47:01.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13329" CreationDate="2013-10-28T18:12:24.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you indicated in passing in the question itself, the key to the matter lies in the phrase 'access to powerful cards'.  Often (though keep in mind that standard environments with very few multicolor cards aren't that uncommon; think of the pre-RTR environment!), the powerful cards are multicolor cards like Sphinx's Revelation; but their being multicolor isn't &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt; correlated with their being powerful.  There are other 'paths to power' for a card, and one that Wizards dips to occasionally is the extra colored mana cost; consider a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genesis%20Wave&quot;&gt;Genesis Wave&lt;/a&gt; (or even more prosaically, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leatherback%20Baloth&quot;&gt;Leatherback Baloth&lt;/a&gt; where the card is 'allowed' to be more powerful in exchange for stronger restrictions on the decks that can cast them.  This is essentially the same tradeoff that's made for multicolor cards, an increase in power in exchange for a decrease in availability; the difference is just in how the decrease in availability is handled.  Seen from this axis, devotion just serves as another means of enforcing the same restriction, only requiring the strong committment in terms of permanents/mana symbols in play rather than in the individual spells' casting costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some localized metagame factors that particularly contributed.  First, mono-red aggro decks were a major part of the pre-Theros metagame, and so cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frostburn%20Weird&quot;&gt;Frostburn Weird&lt;/a&gt; (as an early blocker that can eat many of the mono-R creatures) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Waves&quot;&gt;Master of Waves&lt;/a&gt; (as a protection card that's almost impossible to get through even without the additional bodies that he brings) are solid metagame choices against that deck even without the devotion aspects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, and more broadly: in an 'unknown' environment, particularly a post-large-set new environment, new decks are generally likely to do better than established decks, because it's much easier for the new decks to prepare for an established metagame than for the established decks to figure out which of the new decks are most critical to adapt to.  This state of affairs often doesn't last long, though, and once the new decks are better-understood then the existing decks quickly learn which tools are most important for combatting them.  This can be seen in the post-PT-Theros metagame, where Esper has taken over as the control deck of choice and WUR has completely evaporated; black removal like Hero's Downfall has proven to be a better option than red burn since it can successfully hit cards like Master of Waves &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; also conveniently hit a Domri Rade that's already added loyalty.  Even the new wave of Mono-Black decks are essentially a reaction to the 'first wave' of devotion decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T18:12:24.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13360" CreationDate="2013-10-28T19:31:13.933" Score="6" ViewCount="3047" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Star Fluxx, some Keepers give you abilities that don't take up an action. Are Keeper abilities in Star Fluxx available immediately after the Keeper is put on the table, on the next turn, or just the next time you have an action available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T00:48:05.363" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T00:48:05.363" Title="When are Keeper actions available?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13342" CreationDate="2013-10-28T19:34:33.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All keeper actions can be triggered from the moment they enter play (unless otherwise stated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if that keeper is your final play, your turn immediately ends and you will not be able to trigger any ability that requires it to be your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch your play order and you can pop anything the turn it comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6054" LastActivityDate="2013-10-28T19:34:33.073" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13344" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T01:07:36.077" Score="2" ViewCount="2354" Body="&lt;p&gt;When buying booster packs, I always wonder which one I should by this time, and I often pick randomly (or for superficial reasons). However, it must be that some sets have more useful, valuable or expensive cards than others (which is often determined by players after the cards have been released), and all of these being more likely to be found than others in a booster pack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is in fact a few inter-related questions. &lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to determine the likelihood of obtaining individual cards in a booster pack? If so, based on average card prices, is it possible to determine what packs should yield statistically better cards? Has anyone ever done this before?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6003" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T19:01:58.483" Title="Are some MTG sets statistically more likely to yield more valuable cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13344" CreationDate="2013-10-29T09:04:10.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different sets definitely have different average booster values, and you can calculate the current value of opening a booster relatively easily. You have a 1/8 chance of a mythic, and a 7/8 chance of a rare, so you need the average rare price (ARP) and the average mythic price (AMP). These values may not be directly available, but are trivial (if time consuming) to calculate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With those values, you can work it out as follows:&#xA;(((ARP) / 8) * 7) + ((AMP) / 8).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might give slightly too high a value as you cant get a rare AND a mythic in a pack, but it gives a reasonable representation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more accuracy, you can also factor in the value of a foil (the chance of a foil I believe is 1 in 7 packs, the probability of any individual foil I believe is 1 in the number of cards in the set, however both of those may be incorrect, I'm sure someone else can correct that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average value of the uncommons can be factored in (you get 3 in a pack) and if you REALLY want, the average price of a common also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;all of this can give you an estimate, but for someone buying boosters its of little use. Its valuable for vendors to calculate these values as they can figure out how to value buying and opening boosters to sell singles, but only because they can open large supplies of product to realize these averages. An individual will not be able to buy enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T15:30:28.230" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T15:30:28.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13344" CreationDate="2013-10-29T13:19:45.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're thinking about this as if you are buying packs to sell the cards, but are you really buying packs to play with the cards?  Unless you are likely to immediately sell the rare cards out of your pack, picking ones based on the current selling price is pretty much meaningless.  If you're buying to play with the cards, it would make a lot more sense to think about cards that you are interested in adding to your play collection, and then buy the set that gives you the best chance of getting those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T13:19:45.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2013-10-29T18:02:28.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The etiquette for rubber bridge is not that for duplicate bridge, and it has remained pretty much the same for many years. It &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; specify that dummy should not touch the cards; when you table your hand, you should put them far enough down so that declarer can reach them without difficulty.  Other non-obvious points are that the cards should not be shuffled by dealer or his partner, and that, unless otherwise agreed, you should always cut for partners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you don't need to worry about these points while you're learninmg, and particularly not within the family. But you should be aware that the etiquette exists; you are expected to abide by it when playing with strangers (such as at a club), and particularly when you are playing for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T18:02:28.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T19:08:31.883" Score="3" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;It took two hours to end the game originally, and by that point everyone was just glad to have finished. Does Redshirts Deluxe, the new version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/120426/redshirts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Redshirts&lt;/a&gt;, fix any of the stalemate issues experienced in the base game or is it still stuck in an endless loop of attempting to end the game?  Is the new expansion worth getting to make the base game playable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6000" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T13:21:59.213" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T13:21:59.213" Title="Does Redshirts Deluxe fix the stalemate issues of the original game?" Tags="|untagged|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-11-27T18:23:10.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-29T20:07:28.880" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ainoa and some other general have an ability which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Force an opponent to move an Agent he just played to a different District&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I have to use the ability &lt;strong&gt;at the same time&lt;/strong&gt; as the player is playing the Agent? Or can I wait a another players turn, or right before they place &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; Agent to refer to the &quot;Just played&quot; agent from previously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if it is possible to wait, then a tactic that could be used is to wait and see what other players place first, or if the player next turn uses a relic - the ability can be used then on the previous Agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are not clear on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:38:10.270" Title="How soon is &quot;Just Played&quot;" Tags="|arcana|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13350" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-10-29T20:13:36.863" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T20:13:36.863" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T20:13:36.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13351" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-10-29T20:13:36.863" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-10-29T20:13:36.863" LastActivityDate="2013-10-29T20:13:36.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2013-10-30T01:25:31.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Laws-of-Contract-Bridge1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laws of Contract Bridge 2014&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 42 – Dummy’s Rights&lt;/strong&gt;   Dummy is entitled to give information as to fact or Law but may not initiate the discussion, and provided he&#xA;has not forfeited his rights (see Law 43), he may also&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(a) ask declarer (but not a defender), when he has failed to follow suit,&#xA;whether he has a card of the suit led.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(b) try to prevent any&#xA;irregularity **by declarer.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(c) draw attention to any irregularity, but only after play is concluded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; He may, for example, warn declarer against leading from the wrong hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 43 – Dummy’s Limitations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dummy may not participate in the play (except to play the cards of dummy’s hand as directed by&#xA;declarer) or make any comment on the bidding, play or score of the&#xA;current deal. If he does so, Law 16 may apply. During play, dummy may&#xA;not call attention to an irregularity once it has occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dummy forfeits the rights provided in (a), (b) and (c) of Law 42 if he&#xA;exchanges hands with declarer, leaves his seat to watch declarer play&#xA;or, on his own initiative, looks at the face of a card in either&#xA;defender’s hand. If, thereafter,&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(a) he is the first to draw&#xA;attention to a defender’s irregularity, declarer may not enforce any&#xA;penalty for the offense.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(b) he warns declarer not to lead from the&#xA;wrong hand, (penalty) either defender may choose the hand from which&#xA;declarer shall lead.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(c) he is the first to ask declarer if a play&#xA;from declarer’s hand constitutes a revoke, declarer must substitute a&#xA;correct card if his play was a revoke, and (penalty) unless Law 64(d)&#xA;applies, one trick is transferred to the defending side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to the belief of many, rules are intended &lt;strong&gt;to keep friendly games friendly&lt;/strong&gt;, by providing a common understanding of the game. The above are the rules for non-Tournament bridge in regards to Dummy's rights and limitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like Gramma is a wise old woman, who has encountered cheats in her life and wishes that her grandchildren and other relatives are never accused of such or believed to be &lt;strong&gt;sharp&lt;/strong&gt; at cards. Follow her advice, and give her more credit for wisdom possibly beyond even her years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:57:49.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13332" CreationDate="2013-10-30T12:57:51.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The role of the dummy is to be &quot;dumb&quot; (Silent). That's why s/he is called the &quot;dummy.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the dummy is not supposed to speak or act unless &quot;spoken to.&quot; So dummy's powers are strictly limited, but include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Must lay down hand after the right hand opponent leads (but not before).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;May not further touch those cards except as directed by declarer. (Ideally, the dummy will have placed the cards in such a way that the declarer can reach them.) This includes one card, &quot;no brainer&quot; situations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;May call attention to a declarer error in progress (leading from the wrong hand, not following suit).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;May not initiate a conversation about anything else, including opponents' errors, but may respond to questions asked by a tournament director (TD). (Dummy may not initiate the calling of the TD.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;May not leave his seat or walk around the room except in extreme emergency (fire alarm, and maybe bathroom breaks). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;May not peek at declarer's or opponents' cards (until played).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T09:51:54.393" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T09:51:54.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-30T17:04:54.647" Score="26" ViewCount="1583" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend told me I only get 5 seconds to say if I'm going to counter a card in Magic the Gathering, even if I tell him to wait. Is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6060" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T15:00:51.577" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T08:35:27.087" Title="How much time do I get to read a card before I counter it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13356" CreationDate="2013-10-30T17:26:35.077" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend made that up. There is nothing in the comprehensive rules about how long a player may retain priority. Once you've got it, you keep it as long as you like until you play a spell/ability or pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in an official tournament setting, your opponent can call a judge if he thinks you're intentionally playing slowly. If you're playing at your friend's kitchen table, then anything goes. Of course, the host can always decide to kick you out of his house, so try to play at a reasonable speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T17:26:35.077" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13359" CreationDate="2013-10-30T17:50:05.113" Score="3" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Desecration%20Demon&quot;&gt;Desecration Demon&lt;/a&gt; in my hand, and through some other means I have the ability to cast it with flash and give it haste. Is there a point on my turn when I can cast the Demon such that it can still attack, but is too late for my opponent to sacrifice a creature to tap it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ie. Can I do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start combat phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;beginning of combat&amp;quot; passes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Desecration Demon (with flash from some effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Desecration Demon as an attacker (with haste from some effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or will my opponent have an opportunity to sacrifice a creature to the demon prior to declaring it an attacker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T16:30:10.540" Title="Can I avoid an opponent preventing my Desecration Demon attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13358" CreationDate="2013-10-30T18:00:41.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do that. The combat phase is divided into several steps, and this is how the first step goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;507.Beginning of Combat Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;507.1. First, if the game being played is a multiplayer game in which the active player's opponent's don't all automatically become&#xA;    defending players, the active player chooses one of his or her&#xA;    opponents. That player becomes the defending player. This turn-based&#xA;    action doesn't use the stack. (See rule 506.2.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;507.2. Second, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of combat go on the stack. (See rule 603, &quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;507.3. Third, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, during the 3rd part listed there, you can cast Desecration Demon (if you have something that allows you to do so as though it had flash, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=leyline%20of%20anticipation&quot;&gt;Leyline of Anticipation&lt;/a&gt;). At this time, &quot;At the beginning of each combat&quot; have already been triggered, and it wasn't on the battlefield at that time, so it didn't trigger. By the time you cast it, it's too late for that trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that comes the declare attackers step, during which you can attack with your Demon if you have a card such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=279709&quot;&gt;Fervor&lt;/a&gt; that will give him haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T18:00:41.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13342" CreationDate="2013-10-30T19:08:26.667" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the answer from Loney Labs (Alison Looney)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We would rule that you can use the power of a Keeper as soon as you&#xA;  play it.  There's no way it would depend upon keeper or hand limits,&#xA;  or play rules.  Your turn is not over until you have taken all&#xA;  optional extra actions, including those based on special Keeper powers&#xA;  and extra actions on Rules.  So, as soon as you play that Keeper (or&#xA;  that Rule) you can do what it says you can do, because your turn is&#xA;  not over until you have taken (or decided not to take) that optional&#xA;  extra action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It may happen that a Keeper power has no effect at a given time. &#xA;  Example: in Star Fluxx, you could steal a crew member with the Captain&#xA;  as soon as you play the Captain - but if no other players have crew&#xA;  members on the table to steal, then that's not going to be an option. &#xA;  Another example: In Zombie Fluxx you could kill a Zombie with your&#xA;  Shotgun as soon as you play the Shotgun, but if there are no Zombies&#xA;  to kill, obviously nothing's going to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastActivityDate="2013-10-30T19:08:26.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2013-10-31T00:10:29.173" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are missing? The same thing I was. This article helps a lot! It explains the &quot;why&quot; in great detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/691370/some-complex-strategies-for-7-wonders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/691370/some-complex-strategies-for-7-wonders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6063" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:31:11.937" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:31:11.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T01:31:42.640" Score="4" ViewCount="2396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a quick game, and my opponent played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shidako%2C%20Broodmistress&quot;&gt;Shidako, Broodmistress&lt;/a&gt; and attacked with several creatures, I declared my blockers, and my opponent proceeded to pay the forests and sacrifice all of the creature I blocked to buff the one that got through, my question is, now that all of the creatures I blocked are no longer attacking, am I able to redeclare blockers, due to the change of creature prescence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6064" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T01:38:34.793" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T09:19:40.990" Title="If an attacking creature is sacrificed after being blocked, can I redeclare the block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13363" CreationDate="2013-10-31T01:44:41.343" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;  The step for declaring blockers only happens once, followed by the ability to play abilities and effects, which can result in any number of situations including attackers or blockers no longer doing so, being destroyed, buffed, or whatever.  Regardless of the circumstance that results, blockers cannot be changed and the players must deal with the consequences of the units continuing with their combat orders to the best of their ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T01:44:41.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12933" CreationDate="2013-10-31T06:37:19.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes,&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Returning to the box is the same as Banish.  Check out the definitions on the last page of the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Banish:&lt;/strong&gt; Put it back in the box, shuffled in with the other cards of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T06:37:19.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T08:10:42.060" Score="2" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules of Arcana, at the end of the resolution phase all militia should be returned to their pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is an event (part of the optional rules) which says that all militia should be returned to their pile at the start of the intrigue phase. Which would suggest that they were not returned the previous turns resolution phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But nothing in the rules suggests the option of being able to keep militia in play, so why is there an event card that specifically mentions they should be returned at the start of the intrigue phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T08:10:42.060" Title="Confusion on militia rules (The optional event)" Tags="|arcana|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13363" CreationDate="2013-10-31T09:19:40.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No; once blockers have been declared, play moves to the Combat Damage step. Because your opponent's action happened after the Declare Blockers step you can't re-declare your blockers. But the good news is you don't have to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If blockers have been removed due to exile, card return or sacrifice, the blocked creatures still count as blocked and resolve their damage against the non-existant blocker(s)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually very helpful, as you can declare a blocker and then sacrificie it for it's sacrifice ability or pull it back to your hand to keep it safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures&#xA;  declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. This&#xA;  remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect&#xA;  says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends,&#xA;  whichever comes first. &lt;strong&gt;A creature remains blocked even if all the&#xA;  creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T09:19:40.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-10-31T10:44:40.123" Score="11" ViewCount="3756" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to use the Family Growth action to extend your family by 2 or even 3 if you have enough rooms? The rules do not forbid it, but they only talk in singular about the new family member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6066" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T14:17:18.753" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T12:29:28.793" Title="Agricola Family Growth by 2 (or more)" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13368" CreationDate="2013-10-31T12:28:15.620" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add at most one newborn regardless of the number of empty rooms you might have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Agricola_ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; are clear on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Family Growth, also 1 Minor Improvement (Stage 2): A player may only use this Family growth space if he has more empty rooms than Family members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player who chooses a Family growth action adds their newborn offspring to the Action space&#xA;In the Return home phase, the new Family &lt;strong&gt;member&lt;/strong&gt; is taken home ...  A Player who takes the Family growth action will therefore have &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; additional (adult) Family&#xA;member to use from the following round onwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T12:29:28.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13374" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:31:22.467" Score="12" ViewCount="3087" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you collect the coins at the end of the Gypsy player's turn, or at the end of the game round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6000" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T15:02:03.863" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T11:29:24.570" Title="When does the Gypsies racial ability come into play?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13356" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:40:58.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only is your friend wrong - &quot;time&quot; actually is not relevant to &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; part of Magic The Gathering. (Except maybe in tournament play when each session of rounds is timed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And regardless of rules, a friend should never rush a friend, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; if asked nicely to wait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T13:40:58.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13370" CreationDate="2013-10-31T13:59:41.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it is worded a bit strangely, it happens at the end of the gypsy player's turn, just like all other scoring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T13:59:41.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13380" CreationDate="2013-10-31T14:18:37.903" Score="2" ViewCount="2915" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm more of the dueler type, but sometimes I play multiplayer with my friends. At this point my decks are just not viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to build a multiplayer deck for this purpose. When I check online multiplayer decklists I see a lot of 1 or 2 singles of the same cards in a heavely not consistent deck rather then lots of 4 of making a solid and constant deck. Is there a reason for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I would like to build a life-gain/control deck. is it possible for a fun deck to play in multiplayer? If yes, I would be glad to have some ideas from experienced multiplayer players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T17:07:48.310" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T16:26:35.947" Title="How to build / ideas for a multiplayer lifegain control deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13370" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:06:18.240" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_gd_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gypsies ability&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Place 1 bonus Victory coin (taken from the Victory stash) in each Region you abandon. You cannot conquer these Regions again this turn, but &lt;strong&gt;you receive the coins they hold as a bonus at turns end&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of your turn, you place coins in each Region your Gypsies occupy. At the end of the Gypsies turn, collect all coins in those Regions that you don't occupy and return the remaining coins if any to the Victory stash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_2_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules state&lt;/a&gt; a turn ends after troop redeployment and Victory coin scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Picks a Race and Special Power combo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Conquers some Regions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scores some Victory coins&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gypsies essentially allows you to score a Region for one additional turn after abandoning it, because Gypsies are always on the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Abandoning a Region&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Only those Race tokens that were taken back in hand may be used to conquer new Regions. If a player wishes to free up some more Race tokens, he may opt to entirely empty up some - or all - Regions, leaving no Tokens there; &lt;strong&gt;but in this case, these now abandoned Regions will no longer be considered his, nor bring him any Victory coins.&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;--&lt;em&gt;Small World rule book pg. 6&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T11:29:24.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13376" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:32:36.950" Score="2" ViewCount="1742" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Leyline of Singularity&lt;/a&gt; is in play, will  my opponent be able to have multiple &quot;2/2 zombie tokens&quot; in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T15:42:18.793" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T01:17:26.283" Title="Does Leyline of Singularity works on tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:41:18.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does count for tokens; you will not be able to have multiple tokens with the same name. The name of a token is defined by the spell that created it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5c A spell or ability that creates a creature token sets both its name and its creature type. If the spell or ability doesn’t specify the name of the creature token, its name is the same as its creature type(s). A “Goblin Scout creature token,” for example, is named “Goblin Scout” and has the creature subtypes Goblin and Scout. Once a token is on the battlefield, changing its name doesn’t change its creature type, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, if an effect creates a 2/2 Zombie token, then the name of that token will be &quot;Zombie.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the legendary rule does apply to tokens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;205.4d Any permanent with the supertype “legendary” is subject to the state-based action for legendary permanents, also called the “legend rule” (see rule 704.5k).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5e A token is subject to anything that affects permanents in general or that affects the token’s card type or subtype. A token isn’t a card (even if represented by a card that has a Magic back or that came from a Magic booster pack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T16:56:58.250" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T16:56:58.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13368" CreationDate="2013-10-31T15:41:43.187" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each 'Family Growth' action gets you one additional person.  You can do more than one 'Family Growth' action in a turn (getting multiple people) if the spaces are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T15:41:43.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13358" CreationDate="2013-10-31T16:30:10.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides what Gendolkari said, you could also make sure that your opponent has no creatures to sacrifice when the trigger resolves. Given that you are probably playing some black midrange/control deck, you should have enough removal to make this happen often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T16:30:10.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13375" CreationDate="2013-10-31T16:54:08.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 110.1]&lt;/sup&gt; If you have tokens on the battlefield, Leyline of Singularity will make them Legendary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The legendary rule affects permanents, so it does affect tokens.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 704.5k]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The token's type is irrelevant. The legendary rule compares names.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 704.5k]&lt;/sup&gt; However, a token's name is usually the same as the type as which it was created. Some effects that create tokens give them a name (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudseeder&quot;&gt;Cloudseeder&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;sup&gt;[CR 110.5c]&lt;/sup&gt; For the rest, the token's name is the same as its creature type. For example, the token created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vile%20Rebirth&quot;&gt;Vile Rebirth&lt;/a&gt; is named &amp;quot;zombie&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent's 2/2 zombie tokens are named &amp;quot;zombie&amp;quot;, they will have to put all but one in their graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5c A spell or ability that creates a creature token sets both its name and its creature type. If the spell or ability doesn’t specify the name of the creature token, its name is the same as its creature type(s). A “Goblin Scout creature token,” for example, is named “Goblin Scout” and has the creature subtypes Goblin and Scout. Once a token is on the battlefield, changing its name doesn’t change its creature type, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5k If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “legend rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-01T01:17:26.283" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T01:17:26.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13373" CreationDate="2013-10-31T19:15:39.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple main reasons you might see a lot of multiplayer decks with 1 or 2 of each card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, multiplayer is a pretty casual format, so people are playing with the cards they own, and trying not to spend all their money. They probably only have 1 or 2 of a lot of cards, so they're just building the deck they can build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with that, casual games tend to be about fun, not just winning, and a lot of people do like the excitement and variety of having a lot of different cards. There's something to be said for getting to cast a bunch of different spells, even if they're not quite as good as the 4-ofs you might put in the deck if you wanted to perfect it. People obviously really like this; Commander is getting pretty popular, and the entire format is built around the idea of having only one of each card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your specific deck idea, sure, it's possible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, remember, lifegain is in general a weaker mechanic than it seems at first, because unless you actually deal with the things that keep making your life go down, it only buys you a little time. So you really need to make it count - find the most efficient life gain you can. This means both getting the most life you can out of it, and hopefully getting an extra benefit. Happily, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bextort%5D&amp;amp;format=%7C%5B%22Return%20to%20Ravnica%20Block%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;extort&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373645&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant&lt;/a&gt; (mentioned in the comments) do both. They gain life &lt;em&gt;for each opponent&lt;/em&gt;, so lots of lifegain. But they also drain your opponent, and give you an extra creature. (Or in the case of Blind Obedience, slow down aggro decks.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on your constraints (and your collection) there are probably a lot more cards in that vein - try searching for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22each%20opponent%22%5D%20%5Blife%5D%20%5Bgain%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;each opponent&quot; gain life&lt;/a&gt; or even just &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22gain%20life%20equal%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;gain life equal to&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, and you'll find some more potential candidates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, it does depend on the kinds of decks your friends play. If you're surviving to the late game but still losing, maybe you just need better win conditions. If you're getting killed early before you can get your cool stuff online, maybe you need some faster removal, or in general faster answers to the kinds of things they're trying to do. The control side of your deck needs to be strong and efficient too, not just the lifegain. But it's hard to give terribly specific advice here; we don't know what kind of decks you're playing against, or what kind of cards you have at your disposal. I think about the best general advice is to look at what's killing you and figure out ways to address it efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-10-31T22:24:42.543" LastActivityDate="2013-10-31T22:24:42.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14214" CreationDate="2013-10-31T20:13:22.283" Score="1" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Krosmaster Arena board game box, there are a variety of tokens that come with the set. In the plastic &quot;piece container&quot;, the eight original figures are already set in place, and there's an obvious spot for the eight character cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four other cardboard punch outs, and included on those are a large amount of tokens. Are those designed to go into a specific location in the plastic container? If so, where? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1662" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-09-19T01:49:00.987" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T01:49:00.987" Title="Where are the various Krosmaster Arena tokens supposed to go?" Tags="|krosmaster-arena|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13384" CreationDate="2013-11-01T14:55:51.540" Score="7" ViewCount="16166" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Betrayal at House on the Hill there is a rule for &lt;strong&gt;Moving Past Opponents&lt;/strong&gt; on page 17:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;each&lt;/strong&gt; opponent in a room with it after the haunt starts, an&#xA;  explorer or monster must use 1 extra space of movement to leave that&#xA;  room. (Heroes slow down the traitor and monsters, and vice versa.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No matter how many penalties you have on a turn, you can always move&#xA;  at least 1 space. This is also true if a monster rolls a 0 for&#xA;  movement (see &quot;How Monsters Work,&quot; page 18).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Stunned monsters don't slow an explorer's movement in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpret &quot;moving past an opponent&quot; as walking into a room with an opponent, then walking out. Is there a movement penalty if you are ALREADY in the room with your opponent at the beginning of a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say I am in a room with 3 zombies at the start of the turn. Does it take me 4 movement points to leave the room (1 for each zombie and 1 as a normal movement point) OR does it take me 1 movement point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6075" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T16:47:48.693" Title="Is there a movement penalty when starting in the same room as an opponent?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13383" CreationDate="2013-11-01T15:36:56.653" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I interpret &quot;moving past an opponent&quot; as walking into a room with an opponent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say &quot;to move past an opponent&quot;, it says &quot;to leave that room.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a movement penalty if you are ALREADY in the room with your opponent at the beginning of a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's a movement penalty for leaving a room with an opponent. This penalty is not conditional on you having started in another room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, say I am in a room with 3 zombies at the start of the turn. Does it take me 4 movement points to leave the room (1 for each zombie and 1 as a normal movement point) OR does it take me 1 movement point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will take 4 points if you have at least that many. If you have less, it will take however many you have (including none) since you can always move at least once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-03T16:47:48.693" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T16:47:48.693" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2013-11-01T17:16:07.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had good success using sticky tape, but we put it on the sliders. Specifically, we stuck a piece of single sided tape on the &lt;strong&gt;inside&lt;/strong&gt; of the slider, and then trimmed the excess tape off with small scissors. We might try packing tape next time because it's a wee bit thicker. An advantage to this solution is that it doesn't mess up the character tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2013-11-01T17:16:07.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13387" CreationDate="2013-11-01T18:53:44.390" Score="4" ViewCount="961" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted this on a Magic forum and got zero responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=High%20Tide&quot;&gt;High Tide&lt;/a&gt; combo deck. Let's say I am &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;ing with 50 cards in my deck, 23 of which are outs that make me win. I think the calculation for this is: &lt;code&gt;(27/50)*(26/49)*(25/48)&lt;/code&gt;, so my failure rate is just about 15%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, drawing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;, Brainstorm, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Preordain&quot;&gt;Preordain&lt;/a&gt; off of my first Brainstorm might enable me to dig for an out. I only have enough mana to cast one more cantrip and one out, I have 3 Brainstorms, 4 Ponders, and 3 Preordains left in my deck. I came up with this: &lt;code&gt;((27/50)*(26/49)*(25/48))*((47/50*46/49*45/48))&lt;/code&gt;. (I think) This would be my percent chance of not hitting one of my 23 outs and not hitting a brainstorm, around 12.3%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course just drawing Brainstorm isn't good enough, I need the third card from the top of my deck to be one of my 23 outs (the top 2 are cards I replaced from brainstorm). It is here that I'm stuck, I don't know how to figure that out, or how to figure it out for Preordain or Ponder. It's been a while since I've taken stats, I don't even know if that 12.3 is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5515" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T16:50:44.590" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T19:51:50.513" Title="How do cards like Brainstorm affect the probability of drawing an out?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13386" CreationDate="2013-11-01T19:40:10.147" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The final answer will be obtained using&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(winner) = P(winner on brain storm) + ( P(cantrip but no winners on brainstorm) * P(winner on cantrip) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There 23 wins to be found in 50, so there are 50-23 = 27 non-win to be found in 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(no winners on brain storm) = (27/50)(26/49)(25/48) = 15%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(winner on brain storm) = 1 - P(no winners on brain storm) = 1 - 15% = 85%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, we'll draw both a win and cantrip using brainstorm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 23 wins and 10 cantrips = 33 wins and cantrips to be found in 50, so there are 50-33 = 17 that are neither to be found in 50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(neither winners nor cantrips on brainstorm) = (17/50)(16/49)(15/48) = 3.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(winner and/or cantrip on brainstorm) = 1 - P(neither winners nor cantrips on brainstorm) = 1 - 3.5% = 96.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(cantrip but no winners on brainstorm) = P(winner and/or cantrip on brainstorm) - P(winner on brainstorm) = 96.5% - 85% = 11.5%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We cast the cantrip when none of the 23 winners were in the first 3. That means we're looking at the first of 47 cards. There are 23 wins to be found in 47.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Note: I forgot to factor in the the possibility to shuffle with Ponder.]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(winner on cantrip) = 23/47 = 49%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P(winner)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= P(winner on brain storm) + ( P(cantrip but no winners on brainstorm) * P(winner on cantrip) )&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= 85% + ( 11.5% * 49% )&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= 91%&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(90.68%, to be more precise)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[Experimentation shows that factoring in the the possibility to shuffle with Ponder raises the odds to around 93%.]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's verify by experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;#!/usr/bin/perl&#xA;&#xA;use strict;&#xA;use warnings;&#xA;&#xA;use List::Util qw( shuffle );&#xA;&#xA;my @deck = ( ('W') x 23, ('C') x 10, ('O') x (50-23-10) );&#xA;&#xA;my $trials = 10_000;&#xA;my $wins = 0;&#xA;&#xA;for (1..$trials) {&#xA;   @deck = shuffle(@deck);&#xA;&#xA;   ++$wins&#xA;      if $deck[0] eq 'W'&#xA;      || $deck[1] eq 'W'&#xA;      || $deck[2] eq 'W'&#xA;      || $deck[3] eq 'W' &amp;amp;&amp;amp; ($deck[0] eq 'C' || $deck[1] eq 'C' || $deck[2] eq 'C');&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;printf(&quot;%.0f%%\n&quot;, $wins/$trials*100);&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x20;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$ for i in 1 2 3 ; do p ; done&#xA;91%&#xA;91%&#xA;90%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T19:51:50.513" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T19:51:50.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2013-11-02T10:07:37.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some board games, once a skill is triggered, it will take the full effect no matter the character is dead or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I think, even if Charles was dead when he killed another character, he won the game. It is a kind of sacrifice attack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6078" LastEditorUserId="6078" LastEditDate="2013-11-02T10:16:55.533" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T10:16:55.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2013-11-02T16:05:13.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;strong&gt;mobile apps&lt;/strong&gt;, they not only keep track of stats but help with the haunt scenarios. Here is the link for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/explorers-aid/id664740541?mt=8&quot;&gt;IOS&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and another for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.unprompted.betrayal&amp;amp;hl=en&quot;&gt;Android&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I have only used the IOS one but it works well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6062" LastActivityDate="2013-11-02T16:05:13.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-03T15:33:23.637" Score="1" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is from yesterday's New York Post. North-South are playing at four spades. Vulnerable, they had bid 1 spade, 2 spades, 4 spades, no opposing bids. Here's the hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        North&#xA;        (s) AQ9&#xA;        (h) K63&#xA;        (d) 854&#xA;        (c) 7432&#xA;&#xA;  West                  East&#xA;&#xA;(s) 53                 (s) 42    &#xA;(h) JT97               (h) AQ852&#xA;(d) QT72               (d) 963   &#xA;(c) Q98                (c) KT5    &#xA;&#xA;         South&#xA;        (s) KJT876&#xA;        (h) 4&#xA;        (d) AKJ&#xA;        (c) AJ6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South has six easy trump tricks, two side aces and a king for an easy nine. The tenth trick will come from a finesse or end play into one of South's minor suit tenaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West leads the Jack of hearts, which East correctly overtakes with the Queen in order to lead a diamond to West's Queen. South intercepts with the King, and leads a trump to dummy in order to lead a low club. East covers with the King. All understandable so far. Here's where I think the narrative goes wrong, with a focus on the part in bold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;South took the ace, led a trump to dummy, &lt;strong&gt;and returned a second club, five Jack, Queen. He ruffed the next heart, lost another club,&lt;/strong&gt; and got to dummy with a trump to pitch his Jack of diamonds on the good club.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't South need to cover East's five of clubs with the &lt;strong&gt;six&lt;/strong&gt; so that West wins with the nine? Then cover the T with the Jack on the &lt;strong&gt;third&lt;/strong&gt; round so West wins with the queen? All to keep East off lead. Because otherwise, East wins on the third round and shoots another diamond through South.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The narrative also attributed South's difficulty to &quot;good play&quot; by the defenders. It's true that East played well, but it seems to me to be only &quot;ordinarily&quot; well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the issue in the club distribution. For instance, if East has KQx of clubs instead of KT5, he has a forced win of a club, and the chance to take the minor finesse diamonds. Ditto if clubs split 4-2, and East has KQ. If clubs split 2-4, South can win only if West has KQ or KT so East doesn't get the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T17:36:50.050" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T17:36:50.050" Title="Did a bridge column make errors in discussing a hand?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13391" CreationDate="2013-11-03T18:04:55.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No; swap the club 5 and 6 and South still makes the hand. Deal it out with a deck of cards and see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If West wins the second club and returns a diamond the diamond loser has been eliminated; if West returns a club the 4th club is now set up for the diamond pitch; if West returns a trump or heart Declarer wins and leads out the 3rd round of clubs, wins the diamond return by East and goes to board with 3rd round of trumps to pitch the losing diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T18:04:55.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13393" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13394" CreationDate="2013-11-03T20:05:50.490" Score="7" ViewCount="3096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got in a heated argument over the following case, in which I created a scenario below to have clarifications on the Look Out Sir rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you've got a squad made up of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Space Marine (Unit Type: Infantry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Space Marine Sergeant (Unit Type: Infantry + Character) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Company Master (Unit Type: Infantry + Independent Character) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Librarian (Unit Type: Infantry + Independent Character) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 39 of the rulebook it says &lt;em&gt;&quot;Independent Characters pass look Out, Sir rolls on a 2+ (see page l6).&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of the rules, page 16 &amp;amp; 39, is that the 2+ roll is allowed only when an independent character is the one trying to save any other type character:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The SM takes the hit, no LOS save possible. &lt;em&gt;(This is pretty clear in the rules, just stating the case in order to state all possibilities)&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sergeant takes the hit, the SM can try to save him on 4+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sergeant takes the hit, the Company Master can try to save him on 2+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sergeant takes the hit, the Librarian can try to save him on 2+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Company Master takes the hit, the SM can try to save him on 4+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Company Master takes the hit, the Sergeant can try to save him on 4+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Company Master takes the hit, the Librarian can try to save him on 2+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in all the cases above?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend states that the 2+ roll is made when any model tries to save the independent character, which would make his understanding of the rules as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The SM takes the hit, no LOS save possible. &lt;em&gt;(no change)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sergeant takes the hit, anyone can try to save him on 4+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Company Master takes the hit, anyone can try to save him on 2+.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who's right, who's wrong, are we both wrong somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastEditorUserId="5313" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T22:56:24.773" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T00:06:32.290" Title="Look Out Sir save clarifications" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13393" CreationDate="2013-11-03T20:58:15.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is right. The model taking the wound makes the role, not the model 'saving' him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5449" LastActivityDate="2013-11-03T20:58:15.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13399" CreationDate="2013-11-04T08:00:28.020" Score="2" ViewCount="576" Body="&lt;p&gt;So what i wanted to ask is this... &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kozilek%2C%20Butcher%20of%20Truth&quot;&gt;Kozilek, Butcher of Truth&lt;/a&gt; goes to graveyard and I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stonecloaker&quot;&gt;Stonecloaker&lt;/a&gt; in hand!&#xA;My queston is can I exile Kozilek with my Stonecloaker before Kozileks ability resolves ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6088" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T09:50:32.387" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T09:50:32.387" Title="Kozilek vs Stonecloaker" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13408" CreationDate="2013-11-04T08:17:53.420" Score="20" ViewCount="8626" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most D20s I own (with the exception of poorly made foam ones or MTG spin-down dice) seem to have all opposing sides add up to 21 (20 + 1, 15 + 6, etc).  Why is this?  Who started this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6089" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T14:37:59.977" Title="Why do the opposing sides of a D20 generally add up to 21" Tags="|dice|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13397" CreationDate="2013-11-04T08:33:11.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. Because when Kozilek goes to the graveyard, the &quot;shuffle it into library&quot; goes on the stack. Before that resolves, you can exile it from the graveyard with Stonecloaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;shuffle it into library&quot; is a so called triggered ability, therefore it goes on the stack and you can put your (instant or flash) spells on the stack before resolving that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T09:40:06.167" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T09:40:06.167" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13401" CreationDate="2013-11-04T08:59:40.517" Score="4" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of the canal phase all 'level 1 industry' tiles are removed.  Does this include level 1 shipyards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so - then why does the level 1 shipyard tile &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; have a canal marker on it, like all the other canal-phase-only tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(EDIT for future clarity: The canal symbol is missing on &lt;strong&gt;first edition&lt;/strong&gt; copies of the game. Thanks to Xi Huan for this info.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that level 0 shipyards need to be developed before any can be built, and that level-2 shipyards can only be built during the railway phase.  Level-1 shipyards seem to fall into an ambiguous hole.  Only one can ever actually be built, the Liverpool one, because of the coal connectivity requirements.  This half suggests it could stay there when the railway phase is started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastEditorUserId="5655" LastEditDate="2013-11-04T11:05:32.237" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T11:05:32.237" Title="Brass: Are shipyards &quot;industries&quot;?" Tags="|brass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13400" CreationDate="2013-11-04T09:58:39.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just a mistake that the canal symbol is missing. If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hexagonia.com/rules/Brass2ed.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;second edition rule book&lt;/a&gt;, you see the canal symbol on a level 1 shipyard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5H1sL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules also say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have just completed the Canal Period then remove all canal &#xA;  and Tech level 1 Industry counters, along with any cubes on them, &#xA;  from the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mention of the canal/rail road symbols. They a just reminders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since level 1 shipyards are also tech level 1 industries (they look and behave like the other industries and the shipyard counters are listed in the rules as industries counters), they are removed as well when the canal period is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the short answer is: &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T09:58:39.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-04T10:57:18.810" Score="15" ViewCount="2856" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an Epidemic card is drawn, but the card from the infection deck that is then drawn has an eradicated disease on it, is it necessary to shift the infection rate forward--or does the fact that the disease is eradicated mean that the epidemic has been avoided? Is it necessary to intensify by shuffling the infection discards and putting them on top of the infection deck in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6091" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T13:08:42.383" Title="Pandemic--epidemics with eradicated diseases" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2013-11-04T12:09:11.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be misinformed, however my understanding of the situation is that this is a result of trying to normalize the value of each region on the d20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best comparison is between an MTG spindown (where the numbers count down from 20-1 in sequence spiraling around the d20) and a regular d20. A spindown has all the high values clustered at one end, and the low values clustered at the other. with practice, you could easily learn to roll a spindown to get 10 or more the vast majority of the time, for a regular d20 this is impossible as the numbers are spread evenly, so high numbers are surrounded by lower numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is very hard (if not impossible) to roll a d20 for an exact individual side, so spacing them out in this way is the best way to &quot;balance&quot; the values, such that a practiced roll aiming for 20 has a high chance to land on much lower numbers that are adjacent, where a spindown would have other high numbers adjacent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by laying out the numbers such that all sides add up to 21, you give a memorable way for users to navigate a d20, whilst also giving a reasonable (if not optimal) proportionality in value accross the areas of the d20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for who started it, I couldnt answer that, d20 themselves have been around since the Romans (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/geekdad/2008/06/what-version-of/&quot;&gt;http://www.wired.com/geekdad/2008/06/what-version-of/&lt;/a&gt;), but I can find no information on who decided the numbering scheme. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T12:09:11.633" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13402" CreationDate="2013-11-04T13:08:42.383" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you still move the infection rate forward and intensify by shuffling the discards. The only thing that eradicating a disease does is prevent you from placing more cubes of that disease on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T13:08:42.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13344" CreationDate="2013-11-04T19:01:58.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you planning on selling the cards after you open them?  If not then the real value is which set do you enjoy more than another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been playing for many years and for me I enjoy the new sets and the new cards just because they are new -- however, objectively opening a current pack will always contain less $$ value than opening a pack of beta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I'd never play with the cards from a pack of beta, I'd sell them!  So I would get no play value from the beta pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="220" LastActivityDate="2013-11-04T19:01:58.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-04T21:19:31.393" Score="3" ViewCount="12730" Body="&lt;p&gt;How is it that websites like SCG or CFB created their card database inventory. How would i be able to do this myself now? I want to create a similar website where a user can search and find any card with images. Obviously entering manually into a sql server is not feasible. Any help on easiest way to get this done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6095" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T12:57:33.467" Title="Magic card database for websites" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2013-11-05T17:41:24.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2013-11-05T02:08:53.150" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opposite sides add up to 21 on a d20 for the same reason that opposite sides add up to 7 on a d6: if there's a manufacturing or design defect, and the die ends up slightly flatter than intended, then the average result of the die will not change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a d6 that ends up a bit flat: two sides opposite each other will both have an increased chance of being landed on. But since these two sides' numbers are &quot;opposite&quot; to each other, they will not affect the &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; of the die. For example, a d6 might have a 1/3 chance of landing on a 1, a 1/3 chance of landing on a 6, and, and a 1/12 chance of landing on each of the other faces. The average of this seriously-deformed die is: 1 * 1/3 + 2 * 1/12 + 3 * 1/12 + 4 * 1/12 + 5 * 1/12 + 6 * 1/3 = 3.5, the same as a normal die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, various other deformities (malformed corner, air bubble in the plastic, some enterprising fellow put a little lead in the die, etc.) will still play merry hob with the probabilities in an unfair way, but a flattened die will be &lt;em&gt;somewhat&lt;/em&gt; fair in that its biases favor both high and low numbers equally. The layout for d8, d10, d12, and d20 dice were probably created from this same idea to make the dice somewhat fair if they're flattened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-11-06T01:55:11.817" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T01:55:11.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13407" CreationDate="2013-11-05T08:06:26.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a program called Gatherer Extractor which can extract all info and images from Gatherer. You can export it to an XML file which you can import easily into (eg) a MySQL database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check the sets which you want to download, and the info you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=303454&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?t=303454&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T08:06:26.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13407" CreationDate="2013-11-05T10:01:35.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magic.tcgplayer.com&lt;/a&gt; offer a crystal commerce solution to the stores selling cards through their platform. This includes a card database which is updated by them (an advantage if you are lazy, can be a disadvantage if you want to take advantage of the pre-order market).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe they only offer this to US based stores, so outside of the US you might not be able to make this work for you, inside however its a very easy set up which works well on mobile devices as well as regular browsers, and can be customized quite significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may not suit your needs personal, but others looking to start a new online magic singles store may well want to go down this route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-11-05T12:57:33.467" LastActivityDate="2013-11-05T12:57:33.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11744" CreationDate="2013-11-06T05:30:46.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made up some of my own rules to play with my friends, they wanted to game the be &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; cuthroat, but I had to keep the game somewhat simple without adding more pieces. You can try it out, I haven't been able to try it out too much though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Pokemon Master Trainer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Caleb's Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game all trainers are randomly given a starter Pokemon. Before trainers show their Pokemon, trainers may challenge each other to a battle. All trainers can either accept or reject a challenge to a battle, but can only participate in one battle. If a trainer wins the battle they are able to add 1 or subtract 1 to their first dice roll. If a trainer loses their Pokemon is instantly revived. Play then goes off the player with the lowest Power Points as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic Changes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than 20 Power Points being needed to advance to the Indigo Plateau the requirement is 30 Power Points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trainers may only have 6 Pokemon at a time. If they have more than six Pokemon they put the chip aside and can trade it with another Pokemon in their party at any city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trainers can have a maximum of 7 cards in their hands at one time. If they have too many at the end of their turn they must give the excess to the player with the least Power Points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“There's a time and place for everything!” - &lt;em&gt;Dad's stupid advice.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In order to win trainers must beat two Rivals. If a trainer defeats a rival, they take that card and hold onto it. They must then return to Vermilion City and attempt to defeat another rival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All Trainers have the option to stop on a city, even if their roll goes past the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trade cards give a trainer the option to trade with another trainer anywhere on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evolution:&lt;/strong&gt; In order to evolve your Pokemon, you must have the evolution of that Pokemon. You may not play the evolution of a Pokemon without having the Pokemon that evolves into the final evolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Bob has a Nidoking and a Nidorino but not a Nidoran♂. So until he catches a Nidoran♂ Bob will be unable to play his Nidoking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you catch the evolution of a Pokemon you may put the chip aside until you can evolve one of your Pokemon. This chip will not count to your party of six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Type Bonuses:&lt;/strong&gt; When battling a trainer you gain 2 attack power when battling a Pokemon that your Pokemon would be “Super Effective” against. All Pokemon have one type, this has no effect on catching Pokemon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Catching Pokemon:&lt;/strong&gt; If a trainer fails to catch a Pokemon on their first try the trainer must then roll a dice, and if the dice lands on a 2 or 3 the Pokemon escapes, and a new tile is shuffled into the spot. If a 6 is rolled the Pokemon attacks the trainer, and if the wild Pokemon has an attack power greater than your lowest attack rated Pokemon it faints that Pokemon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If two trainers roll a tie one player has the option to swap their Pokemon for a different one. The player whose Pokemon has the higher Power Point count may choose another Pokemon of theirs to battle with and then battling continues. Pokemon cannot be swapped in if they are fainted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your Pokemon is fainted in battle you can play a potion to roll for a 1 or 2 to instantly revive them and continue the battle. If a 1 or 2 is not rolled you discard the potion, your Pokemon faints and can choose another Pokemon or attempt to run from battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Running from Battle:&lt;/strong&gt; When a trainer initially challenges you to a battle you are unable to run, however, after the first Pokemon is fainted you may either continue batting or you can attempt to run with a dice roll or a Poke Doll. If you roll a 1 or a 6 you may escape the battle. Trainers that initiate a battle may never run from the fight, and battle only ends for them if they defeat all of a trainers Pokemon or their opponent escapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“There's no running from a trainer in battle!” - &lt;em&gt;Every Pokemon game ever.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assisting In Battle:&lt;/strong&gt; If two trainers are in battle other trainers may assist in battle if the are at least three spaces away from the trainers in battle. This help can be rejected by the trainer. Trainers assisting another trainer may add one additional Attack Bonus card, and cannot use potions or Poke Dolls to assist a trainer. A trainer in a city cannot help another trainer. Trainers cannot assist Rivals on the Indigo Plateau.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6104" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T14:45:06.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13413" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-06T07:16:26.953" Score="5" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I'm playing as Schizoid. I have the power to alter reality, so I choose one of the six new cards to be the new win condition. That card is face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then suppose I use Philanthropist Flare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Send one of your ships to the warp to lend your power to another player for the duration of the encounter. Until the end of the encounter, that player is considered to have your power instead of his or her own. You may not use your power while it is loaned out. The player may not refuse the loan of your power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the player I use this on get to look at the win condition card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6105" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-06T09:04:20.507" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T23:15:57.560" Title="Usage of Philanthropist Flare as Schizoid" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13415" CreationDate="2013-11-06T15:53:11.107" Score="13" ViewCount="1242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, which has been animated so it is temporarily a 2/2 creature. My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shipbreaker%20Kraken&quot;&gt;Shipbreaker Kraken&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following monstrous ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Shipbreaker Kraken becomes monstrous, tap up to four target creatures. Those creatures don't untap during their controllers' untap steps for as long as you control Shipbreaker Kraken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent uses the monstrous ability while my Mutavault is a creature and taps it, will my Mutavault untap on my next upkeep (since it is no longer a creature)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T07:53:33.653" Title="&quot;Creature does not untap&quot; on Mutavault" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13414" CreationDate="2013-11-06T15:59:50.780" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't untap. &amp;quot;Those creatures&amp;quot; is not a check. It's just a nice way of saying &amp;quot;those objects that were targeted&amp;quot;. Any later changes to the object's characteristics are irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2i If an ability’s effect refers to a specific untargeted object that has been previously referred to by that ability’s cost or trigger condition, it still affects that object even if the object has changed characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; Wall of Tears says “Whenever Wall of Tears blocks a creature, return that creature to its owner’s hand at end of combat.” If Wall of Tears blocks a creature, then that creature ceases to be a creature before the triggered ability resolves, the permanent will still be returned to its owner’s hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A note on &amp;quot;untargeted&amp;quot;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that &amp;quot;specific untargeted object&amp;quot; refers to phrases like &amp;quot;that &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;those &lt;em&gt;somethings&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, even if they are short for &amp;quot;that targeted &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;those targeted &lt;em&gt;somethings&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. The word &amp;quot;untargeted&amp;quot; is there to exclude &amp;quot;target &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;target &lt;em&gt;somethings&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; from being covered by 608.2i since targets are rechecked on resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22the+targeted%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;two cards&lt;/a&gt; that cannot shorten &amp;quot;that targeted creature&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;that creature&amp;quot; without becoming ambiguous. &amp;quot;That targeted creature&amp;quot; does not target, so 608.2i does apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T07:53:33.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13422" CreationDate="2013-11-06T16:30:39.103" Score="10" ViewCount="1773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a game where the order of players' turns matters quite a bit, and I'm having trouble coming up with a way of showing the order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the round, each player will take their turn.  These turns happen in a specific order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During a player's turn, they can take actions that will push themselves up or down a single place in the turn order for the next round.  This pushes them past the adjacent player in the turn order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't push yourself earlier if you're already going first.  Likewise, you can't push yourself later if you're already going last.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You only get to take one turn per round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whatever is used to show turn order needs to show which player goes next during the current round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example might help.  Round one, the turn order is Jim, Steve, then Betty.  On Jim's turn, he does something that causes him to fall back one step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round two, the turn order is Steve, Jim, Betty.  On Betty's turn, she does something that causes her to move up one step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round three, the turn order is Steve, Betty, Jim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I show the turn order in a way that allows this behavior naturally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-05-11T14:11:31.690" Title="How to show turn order when turn order can change during the round" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12149" CreationDate="2013-11-06T16:58:37.870" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is well understood at this point by people who open boxes.  There are around 6 foils per box (36 packs), with on average 1 of those being rare and one foil mythic every 8 boxes.  This follows the standard rarities (with mythic being 8:1 to rares.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to your question is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 in 6 rare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 in 48 foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB - There have been some sets with additional foils or slightly different print runs -- I'm talking about the standard here, not the exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="220" LastActivityDate="2013-11-06T16:58:37.870" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2013-11-06T17:03:17.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you would want a track showing the current turn order. The game boards for Kingsburg, Macao, and Powergrid all use a track like this. While Kingsburg and Powergrid determine turn order at the start of each round, Macao is more similar to what you describe; players can change their turn order during their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just have the action that players take allow them to move either up or down the turn track. You can either do exactly like Macao, and allow a player to stack on top of another player on the turn track (and whoever is on top goes first), or make it so that when you move up on the turn track, you swap positions with the person above you, so you never have 2 people on the same spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of knowing whose turn it is next right after your turn, as long as you don't have the ability to change 2 other players' orders relative to each other, there shouldn't be an issue. At the end of your turn, you see who is the highest person on the turn track that hasn't already had a turn this round. Even if you moved up or down; that won't change; the next person who should go is whoever is highest on the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If turns are really long or complex, such that you are concerned with players knowing for sure who has or hasn't had a turn this round yet, you could have players flip their marker over at the end of their turn (and the other side of the market is different). Usually when we play Power Grid, after a player has obtained a plant during the auction, we'll move their marker up off the turn track to note that they are now out of the auction phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-11-07T00:37:30.517" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T00:37:30.517" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2013-11-07T03:39:33.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many games with such systems have &lt;strong&gt;plates/tiles with marked turn orders&lt;/strong&gt; that are passed out to players each turn and sit next to them on the table.  It's much like the concept of a Dealer Button in poker, except that there's one for every position in the ordering.  This can be seen in games such as &lt;em&gt;Risk 2210&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Scepter of Zavandor&lt;/em&gt;.  As a benefit, special rules relating to turn order can also be conveniently placed on the tiles - for example, in Zavandor, players in certain positions get higher or lower prices as a form of anti-feedback loop, and the order plates serve as a friendly reminder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T07:02:28.763" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T07:02:28.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2013-11-07T11:09:09.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter what method you decide on, you will need to keep track of two things, the &lt;em&gt;current&lt;/em&gt; turn order and the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; turn order. I have a few options you could try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two Tracks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply have two tracks that will show current and next turn orders. This is a simple solution, players can all stay in their seats and the turn will just jump around the table, this is good for certain games where the &quot;player to your left&quot; or &quot;player to your right&quot; kind of abilities &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Musical Chairs and Chips&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is good for games where &quot;player to your left&quot; or &quot;player to your right&quot; kind of abilities &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; exist. You have the players sit clockwise in turn order. And they will start each round holding a chip with their number on it. When switching turn orders throughout the game, players just switch these chips. At the start of each round, players will reseat themselves according to turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Infinite Stacking Track&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit complex, but the idea is that each player has a token with his color/team on it. And there is an &quot;infinite&quot; track, (this could just be a very long track) Initial turn order is decided and tokens are placed in that order on the track, whenever a player modifies a turn order, you simply move the token up or down the track, if a token already exists on that you place yours &lt;em&gt;below&lt;/em&gt; that token. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, when a new turn is started, going from the first tile in the track towards the end and working from the top-most token down. You get an extra little mechanic where some tiles are blank, which means players after those tiles would need to work extra-hard to get ahead of those that are already passed them. The difference a regular track is that in a regular track you would just replace the tokens instead of stack them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Double Secret Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good method if at some point the turn order might be randomized, or you want to keep the turn order secret, similar to the Two Tracks suggestion you would have 2 sets of cards, one for the current turn, one for the next turn (maybe a different color on the back?) Players would start the game where both cards are the same number (turn order) and only when it's that players turn, he would reveal that he is the player with that number, (revealing the current card color) in this way, players can manipulate the turn order in secret (which adds an interesting element to the game). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only pitfall is that players need to remember who they gave the next turn cards to, so they can also give them the current turn cards at the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T11:09:09.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2013-11-07T11:10:49.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do this with a board that has two columns, one for the current turn and one for the next turn. Place coloured counters on the board to show the turn order, move the counters when the turn order changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your example if Jim is Red, Steve is Green and Betty is Blue, then start with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   Current      Next&#xA;1    Red        Red&#xA;2    Green      Green&#xA;3    Blue       Blue&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During round 1 Jim falls back, so swap the Red and Green counters in the Next column:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   Current      Next&#xA;1    Red        Green&#xA;2    Green      Red&#xA;3    Blue       Blue&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of round one, remove all the counters from the Current column, move all the counters from the Next column into the Current column and place counters in the Next column to match the new Current column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;   Current      Next&#xA;1    Green      Green&#xA;2    Red        Red&#xA;3    Blue       Blue&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T11:10:49.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2013-11-07T14:39:53.670" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, so I would suppose you wouldn't do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6113" LastActivityDate="2013-11-07T14:39:53.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13426" CreationDate="2013-11-07T18:05:01.387" Score="14" ViewCount="4245" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a pretty simple question, but I can't find a definitive answer for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that my active race has only a single race token on the board. During another players turn, that last token is removed. When my turn comes around am I allowed to choose a new active race (as my current race was completely wiped out) or do I have to put that race into decline and wait until my next turn to choose a new active race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is that you need to send your active race into decline, basically skipping your turn and not scoring any points. However, some of the other players are saying that sounds too &quot;unfair.&quot; I'd prefer an answer to include an official Days of Wonder ruling, if one is out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T18:00:55.860" Title="When your active race has no tokens on the board, do they still have to go into decline before you choose a new race?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13425" CreationDate="2013-11-07T18:17:45.833" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still have to go into decline. This is clarified in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/391216/what-we-know-so-far-clarification-of-rules&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, where every answer has been made by a Days of Wonder spokesperson:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All active units destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all your active units are destroyed in&#xA;  one turn you may:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Score points only with the in-decline race. or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2)&#xA;  Go into decline and score 0 for that turn. You may not take a new&#xA;  combo this turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense to me. If it were otherwise, you would be effectively penalised if you had just one unit left in play. Although having no units is unfortunate, it shouldn't be a strategy to prefer being wiped out in order to skip a decline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the &quot;fairness&quot; objection, if you've waited until such a late moment that you could be wiped out, then you've already accrued the benefit of keeping the race active up to now, and this is the price. Small World is all about the trade-off in choosing when to decline. In this situation you've got what was coming to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T18:00:55.860" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T18:00:55.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-07T22:17:26.113" Score="4" ViewCount="1915" Body="&lt;p&gt;King of Tokyo has one of the most poorly written &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/63033/king-of-tokyo-english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Monster loses its last life({Heart}) it is out of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are attacked while in Tokyo and you don't want to be there anymore [...] &lt;strong&gt;you can yield&lt;/strong&gt; to the Monster that attacked (he has to take your place). You still take the damage, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are eliminated by an attack on Tokyo, the Monster who attacked you automatically takes control of Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yielding Tokyo / Flee:&lt;/strong&gt; A Monster can leave Tokyo (yield his place) to the Monster who just attacked him. If a card allows a monster to leave tokyo with no damage from an attack, the attacker still occupies Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eliminated:&lt;/strong&gt; When you have 0{Heart}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a Monster need to survive an attack to yield Tokyo?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important for a card like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(5) Burrowing&lt;/strong&gt;: Keep; Deal 1 extra damage on Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deal 1 damage when yielding Tokyo to the monster taking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a Monster eliminated by an attack deal 1 damage to the Monster that attacked them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T17:01:00.733" Title="Does a Monster have to survive an attack to yield Tokyo?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-07T23:12:04.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1759" Body="&lt;p&gt;Burrowing's effect states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deal 1 extra damage on Tokyo. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this mean&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Deal 1 extra damage [to the Monster] on Tokyo.&amp;quot;; or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Deal 1 extra damage [when your Monster is] on Tokyo.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe it is the former, because of the wording on &lt;strong&gt;Urbavore&lt;/strong&gt;, &amp;quot;when dealing any damage &lt;strong&gt;from Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt;.&amp;quot; Although, it might have been shortened due to lack of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does Burrowing increase the damage from a non-attack?&lt;/strong&gt;  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{6} Acid Attack: Keep; Deal 1 extra damage each turn (even when you don't otherwise attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{3} Fire Blast: Discard; Deal 2 damage to all other monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T03:44:25.650" Title="Does Burrowing's extra damage affect non-attack damage and where inside/outside Tokyo?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13427" CreationDate="2013-11-07T23:55:28.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a monster is eliminated while inside Tokyo, they do not yield. Look at the exact phrasing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are eliminated by an attack on Tokyo, the Monster who attacked&#xA;  you automatically &lt;strong&gt;takes control&lt;/strong&gt; of Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say &quot;takes control of&quot;, not &quot;is yielded,&quot; so no yielding happens and the extra damage from Burrowing doesn't occur. Thematically, this makes sense: the monster is dead, and its ability to burrow doesn't help. You aren't yielding to the attacking monster; you're yielding to the sweet embrace of death. (Death takes one damage.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T17:01:00.733" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T17:01:00.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13428" CreationDate="2013-11-08T02:51:24.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://iello.desk.com/customer/portal/articles/1118479-king-of-tokyo-card-burrowing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iello&lt;/a&gt;, who wrote the rules for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/63034/king-of-tokyo-french-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;French&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/63033/king-of-tokyo-english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English&lt;/a&gt; versions of the game states that you deal extra damage when you are in Tokyo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cost: 5 Energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Type: Keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Text: &quot;Deal 1 extra damage on Tokyo. Deal 1 damage when yielding Tokyo to the monster taking it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You deal 1 extra damage &lt;strong&gt;when you are in Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You deal 1 damage when you yield Tokyo to the monster attacking you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the second part, what about damage cards, &lt;a href=&quot;https://iello.desk.com/customer/portal/questions/1270494-fire-breathing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iello says this about Firebreathing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Firebreathing:&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Your neighbors take 1 extra damage when you deal damage&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: Does fire breating activate when you deal any damage?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;E.G. Burrowing &quot;Deal 1 damage when yielding Tokyo to the monster taking it.&quot;&#xA;  or only when attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: Anytime you do damage wether by attacking or using an ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under this reasoning, I would assume that Burrowing would deal extra damage from any card with an effect that deals damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T02:51:24.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13432" CreationDate="2013-11-08T05:29:02.243" Score="5" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illness%20in%20the%20Ranks&quot;&gt;Illness in the Ranks&lt;/a&gt; out and my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cathars%27%20Crusade&quot;&gt;Cathars&amp;#39; Crusade&lt;/a&gt; out. If 1/1 creature token comes into play under the opponent's control, does the token die due to the effects of Illness or does it get the counter first before Illness's effect activates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6117" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T07:07:01.080" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T16:28:10.113" Title="Which comes first: Illness in the Ranks or Cathars' Crusade?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13431" CreationDate="2013-11-08T07:23:42.177" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Illness in the Ranks creates a continuous effect, which applies constantly. From the moment the token enters the battlefield, it has -1/-1. Cathars' Crusade, on the other hand, has a triggered ability, signified by the word &quot;whenever&quot; in its text. When the token enters the battlefield, that triggered ability goes on the stack. Before it can resolve and add a +1/+1 counter, the token dies. (Players get priority, so state-based actions are checked first, and since the token has zero toughness, it dies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T07:23:42.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13434" CreationDate="2013-11-08T12:16:57.800" Score="9" ViewCount="31642" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I are relatively new to magic, and we're confused as to how mana cost reduction works — i.e. the effects which say something costs X less mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can mana cost reduction reduce the &lt;em&gt;colored&lt;/em&gt; portion of a mana cost, or can it only reduce the uncolored portion? If so, &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; does it interact with the mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think some examples will make this clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nemesis%20of%20Mortals&quot;&gt;Nemesis of Mortals&lt;/a&gt; potentially be &lt;em&gt;free&lt;/em&gt; to cast, or does it always cost at least 2 green mana?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suppose I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animar%2C%20Soul%20of%20Elements&quot;&gt;Animar, Soul of Elements&lt;/a&gt; with two counters, meaning creature spells cost {2} less to cast. If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lazav%2C%20Dimir%20Mastermind&quot;&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/a&gt;:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Lazav now cost less than UUBB to cast?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I choose to pay &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; UU to cast him, and let the discount take away the BB portion of the cost?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I choose to pay UB?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have Animar out with two counters, and I choose to cast Nemesis of Mortals instead, can I discount the forest mana and pay only the remaining 4 of any color?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2024-02-23T15:59:01.907" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T15:59:01.907" Title="How does mana cost reduction interact with colored mana in a cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13433" CreationDate="2013-11-08T12:45:37.983" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana cost changes affect specific elements of a mana cost only. If a reduction says “Spells cost {1} less to cast” this will only affect generic portions of a mana cost. If a reduction says “Spells cost {U} less to cast” it can make spells cost {U} less or a corresponding amount of generic mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good illustrative example is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKhalni%20Hydra%5d&quot;&gt;Khalni Hydra&lt;/a&gt;, which has a mana cost reduction specifying colored mana symbols (in this case green). This mana reduction can pay for generic mana costs (in the event an additional mana cost is added by another effect). However, the same is not true for generic cost reductions paying for colored mana symbols. This behaviour functions in exactly the same way as generally paying for spells, you can pay generic mana costs with any color of mana (or colorless) but you cannot pay color costs with colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarise, Colored mana costs can only be reduced by effects that specify they will reduce that color of mana. Generic costs can be reduced by colored mana cost reductions OR colorless ones. All of this functions just like spending mana to cast spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nemesis of mortals will always cost at least 2 green mana.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lazav's mana cost will be unchanged. The mana cost reduction is colorless only, and he has no colorless mana in his casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You could discount 2 from the generic cost, but you would still have to pay the green portion of the mana cost. If you have 2 creatures in the graveyard and Animar with 2 counters, you will get a total mana cost reduction of 4 colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T09:34:30.860" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T09:34:30.860" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13436" CreationDate="2013-11-05T16:09:01.117" Score="6" ViewCount="2026" Body="&lt;p&gt;When and how should I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRestoration%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Restoration Angel&lt;/a&gt; in the Avacyn's Glory deck? I understand &lt;em&gt;Flash&lt;/em&gt; means it can be used any time like an &lt;em&gt;Instant&lt;/em&gt;. What is the purpose or situation for exiling a non-angel I control then regaining control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0FvCs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Restoration Angel. Cost: 3W. Flash. Flying. When Restoration Angel enters the battlefield, you may exile target non-Angel creature you control, then return that card to the battlefield under your control.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" OwnerDisplayName="spencer" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-09T05:43:07.177" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T18:55:27.603" Title="When should I use Avacyn's Glory's Restoration Angel?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13435" CreationDate="2013-11-05T16:33:36.357" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many cards have an ability that triggers when coming into play.  With Restoration Angel, you could re-trigger one such ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the deck you mentioned, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240029&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt; has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control, creatures you control get +1/+1 until end of turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you play Restoration Angel and remove any other creature, your creatures get +2/+2 instead of just +1/+1.  If that other creature is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230787&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geist-Honored Monk&lt;/a&gt; then the boost to all creatures becomes +4/+4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just one example.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fiend%20Hunter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Champion%20of%20the%20Parish&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244682&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mentor of the Meek&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205351&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soul Warden&lt;/a&gt; could also be used with this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can dodge spells and abilities this way.  If a non-angel you have is targeted by a spell or ability (say &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370654&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;) then removing the target from play temporarily will cause that spell/ability to miss and do nothing instead.  As @skovacs mentioned in the comments, this can also apply to unwanted enchantments on your non-angel creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5137" OwnerDisplayName="David Starkey" LastEditorUserId="5137" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T18:55:27.603" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T18:55:27.603" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T13:46:32.983" Score="5" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a race game. Players start at one end and roll dice until they reach the end. Some players became confused when they reached the end. For example, if a player was three spaces from the end, but rolled a &quot;5&quot;, they were uncertain if that meant a &quot;win&quot; or if the player should move 3 spaces ahead, then 2 spaces back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____ _____&#xA;|     |     |     |  *  |     |     |     |     |     |&#xA;| End |     |     | *** |     |     |     |     |Start|&#xA;|_____|_____|_____|__*__|_____|_____|_____|_____|_____|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way does not seem ideal. Is there any way to design the end of the track such that over-rolls do not lead to any confusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T14:07:06.897" Title="How to design the end of a race game such that over-rolls do not break the logic of the game?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T13:59:33.087" Score="4" ViewCount="1322" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone taught me a game that they remember playing many years before. They drew the board from memory, it looks mostly like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; _____________&#xA;|  __________ |&#xA;| |E|   |   | |&#xA;| | | | | | | |&#xA;| | |&amp;lt;| |&amp;lt;| | |&#xA;| | | | | | | |&#xA;|S|___|___|___|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player began at the start (S), took turns to roll the dice and move, to see who could read the end (E) first. In some places, there were shortcuts (&amp;lt;) allowing players to move ahead more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastActivityDate="2017-10-21T15:38:18.753" Title="What is the name of this snakes-and-ladders-like race game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2013-11-08T14:00:37.733" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any way to design the end of the track such that over-rolls do not lead to any confusion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Write &quot;If your roll is enough to move up to or past the end, you win. If you roll 5 when you're 3 spaces from the end, that counts as winning.&quot; on the board, or in the game rules, or even on the end tile itself (with slightly different phrasing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designing the end of the track differently is only one means to communicating the rules. There are other ways, and just stating it outright is probably the clearest way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T14:00:37.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13437" CreationDate="2013-11-08T14:07:06.897" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could consider &lt;strong&gt;having the &quot;track&quot; continue past the finish&lt;/strong&gt; and mark the end as a line rather than a space. It should be clear then that a player has crossed the finish line, even if they've rolled more than enough to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T14:07:06.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-08T17:20:06.800" Score="-6" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in Berlin right now. Does anybody knows some good pub, where it is possible to play Magic: The Gathering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6123" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T15:15:22.693" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T15:15:22.693" Title="Where can I play magic in Berlin?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2013-11-12T15:32:45.810" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13441" CreationDate="2013-11-08T17:45:04.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well you could go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymtg.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dailymtg.com&lt;/a&gt; and Enter Berlin into the Magic Locator app on the Left Side of the webpage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will tell you where all the game stores that sell Magic: The Gathering are and what events they are running. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3156" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T17:45:04.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13445" CreationDate="2013-11-08T18:44:02.360" Score="13" ViewCount="4206" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have and love Ticket to Ride: Europe, and would like to try out some of the new expansion packs (Switzerland, Asia, etc... Don't really care about 1910). I was just wondering if I would have to buy the original USA game first or if the new maps would work with the Europe set. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6125" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-23T21:02:08.010" LastActivityDate="2019-04-23T21:02:08.010" Title="Do Ticket to Ride expansions work with the Europe set?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|expansions|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2013-11-08T21:09:05.507" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you only need &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; of the base games (Europe or USA) in order to access the train car cards, scoring markers and the player carriage pieces. It doesn't matter which base game you own. For example, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_africa_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules for Heart of Africa&lt;/a&gt; tell you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This game is an expansion and requires that you use the following game&#xA;  parts from one of the previous versions of Ticket to Ride:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A reserve of 45 Trains per player and matching Scoring Markers taken from any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ticket to Ride / Ticket to Ride Europe &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110 Train Car Cards taken from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ticket to Ride / Ticket to Ride Europe / USA 1910 expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also confirm this yourself by looking at the Games of Wonder website descriptions for each map, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/maps/asia/&quot;&gt;Asia&lt;/a&gt;. They all say the same thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NOT A STAND-ALONE GAME! Requires an original copy of Ticket to Ride® or Ticket to Ride® Europe to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-11-08T21:35:04.300" LastActivityDate="2013-11-08T21:35:04.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2013-11-08T21:50:39.117" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either of those big boxes is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Märklin is not perfectly compatible, since the train car deck is a little bit off, and Nordic Countries only has enough trains for three players. That's why those boxes are not quite compatible with the expansion maps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastEditorUserId="6146" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T09:04:18.520" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T09:04:18.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T03:48:46.340" Score="7" ViewCount="5688" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iellogames.com/download/KOT-US-Rules-low.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;King of Tokyo rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are attacked while in Tokyo and you don’t want to be there anymore (and who can blame you – it can be rough!) you can yield to the Monster that attacked (he has to take your place). You still take the damage, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/84142/english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;King of Tokyo: Power-Up&lt;/a&gt; expansion rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Monster ends his roll with at least 3{Heart}, he draws the top Evolution of his deck, keeping it secret. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evolution&lt;/strong&gt; - Monsters keep their evolutions secret until they want to play them - which can be at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you can use Evolutions at any time brings up some interesting rules interactions, and some difficult to answer questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you acquire an Evolution card simultaneously when attacking?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does this affect when Evolution cards can be played?&lt;/strong&gt; (provide answers and reasoning for The King's Evolution cards below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give some concrete examples, can you play the &lt;strong&gt;The King&lt;/strong&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1449042/king-of-tokyo-power-up?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;evolution cards&lt;/a&gt; if you roll at least 1 {Claw}, and at least 3 {Heart} immediately during the same turn you acquired one of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt;: &amp;quot;Gain 1 extra {Star} when you take control of Tokyo or start your turn there.&amp;quot; (&lt;em&gt;Can you play this if the opponent yields, or does dealing damage &amp;amp; yielding occur before acquiring the Evolution card?&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alpha Male&lt;/strong&gt;: &amp;quot;Gain 1 {Star} when you attack.&amp;quot; (&lt;em&gt;Can you play this immediately and gain a star, or have you already attacked? Is this answer different than the above, why?&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chest Thumping&lt;/strong&gt;: &amp;quot;When you attack Tokyo, you can force the occupant to retreat.&amp;quot; (&lt;em&gt;Do you make this decision to reveal the Evolution card during your attack, or during the opponent's yield? Does that timing difference make it match the first/second rule above?&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jungle Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt;: &amp;quot;Discard this Evolution to take an extra turn. Only do this when you have attacked Tokyo and have failed to enter Tokyo.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-02-04T16:20:19.627" Title="Do you acquire Evolution cards simultaneously when Attacking, and when can you use them?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|king-of-tokyo-power-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13447" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-09T20:40:02.207" Score="4" ViewCount="350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to develop a framework to support teachers and their students in developing mini-games for their class.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a math teacher organizes several workshops and classes with his or her students to develop 2 or 3 mini-games. The objective is not to have playable games, although that would be nice. The objective is twofold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promote design thinking and design skills, bot for the teacher and&#xA;students;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the game design workshop as an instrument to think deeply about the (in this example) mathematical content being taught. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ad 1. The teacher learns to think about levels, providing challenge, using imagination and fantasy, personalization, feedback mechanisms, social interaction, engagement, etc in relation to his teaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ad 2. To be clear about the second: students develop challenges that fit within their game, The teacher supports them in thinking about relevant challenges, but in order to make a 'playable challenge', they first have to really understand the content and outcome of the challenge. The hope is this leads to a deeper understanding of the topics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any examples on how to organize the workshops/class in a gameful manner as well? In other words, what other game-to-design-a-game games are there? And what are their features? I am working in a low-tech environment, so preferably the examples do not require too many technical resources or programming skills, but mostly focus on fun and creativity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Just found an interesting and widely cited paper by Druckman that compares game/simulation DESIGN vs game/simulation PLAY and concludes that (in this case) DESIGN has much stronger effects on retention and learning than PLAY. The approach is very rigorous and I believe his results can be generalized. However, to be critical, I would also predict that playing a game that is designed by a lay-designer would be less effective than doing the design yourself (as a layman). Search for &quot;Druckman - Onstage or behind the scenes? Relative learning benefits of simulation role-play and design&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6107" LastEditorUserId="6107" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T15:09:53.420" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T15:29:45.860" Title="(Meta) game design to facilitate educational game design workshop/class" Tags="|game-design|metagame|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2013-11-09T23:22:34.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer- No system- its an open community. If high level players like JEC don't need to specify a system why would anyone else. &#xA;Partial answer- Most English speaking bridge players are American so can assume they play some sort of Standard American- they assume you are psychic so you know what they play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastActivityDate="2013-11-09T23:22:34.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13450" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-10T19:20:17.407" Score="8" ViewCount="38827" Body="&lt;p&gt;How exactly would the following work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a creature with first strike and deathtouch, it's enchanted to be able to block any number of creatures (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entangler&quot;&gt;Entangler&lt;/a&gt;). Lets say its a 2/2 and it blocks five 3/3's - what exactly would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the same creature is instead enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lure&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All creatures able to block enchanted creature do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I attack with that 2/2 and my opponent has five untapped 5/5's that are forced to block. Again, what exactly happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping to build a green/white/red deck based off of these combos but I'm a little confused about the mechanics of it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6133" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T01:05:34.593" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T23:42:35.527" Title="How would first strike and deathtouch interact with multiple blockers in this scenario?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13450" CreationDate="2013-11-11T02:41:57.233" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would only be able to destroy two of the blocking creatures.  For deathtouch to have an effect, you must do damage to a creature. On the plus side, an attacker with deathtouch only needs to assign one damage to each blocker.  In your scenario, your creature is only a 2/2, and so even with a team of blockers, only two damage can be shared among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your scenario's here is the change needed to leave your creature alive yet destroy all blocking or attacking creatures: your Entangler must be at least a 5/1.  I say a 5/1 because toughness can't be 0 and you must be able to deal at least 1 damage to all blocked or blocking creatures. Using a card such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370788&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; would allow your creature to live assuming it has both first strike and death touch.  Without the first strike as long as you have 1 power for all attacking or blocking creatures you would be able to take them out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2b Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature’s toughness. See rules 510.1c–d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5h If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and it’s been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked, that creature is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2975" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T16:44:06.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13450" CreationDate="2013-11-11T09:52:08.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your declare your First Strike Deathtouch creature as a blocker for multiple attackers, you must choose the order in which your blocker will deal damage to those creatures (the owner of a creature chooses the order it's damage is dealt to creatures it attacks or blocks). When this is done, and play progresses to the combat damage step (for creatures with first strike), you must then assign &lt;strong&gt;lethal&lt;/strong&gt; damage to each creature in the order you chose earlier. The addition of deathtouch means that lethal damage is 1 damage for any creature, including indestructible and regenerated creatures. This means with a 2/2 first strike deathtouch creature, you can assign lethal damage to the first 2 creatures in the order you declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all creatures have no more damage to assign, the damage step ends, any creatures assigned lethal damage die and combat progresses. As you would expect any remaining creatures then deal damage to your creature as normal. In your example, you would kill the first 2 3/3s and then the rest would survive to kill your 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the second scenario, the result is very similar, all creatures that can, must block your first strike deathtouch creature. Next, you choose the order of those blockers (just as before, the controller of each creature declares the order in which it's damage is dealt), and when the damage step comes assign lethal damage in that order, killing 2 of the 5/5s and leaving 3 standing to then finish your creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deathtouch makes any damage assigned lethal damage, however just as a 0/4 creature with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=curiosity&quot;&gt;curiosity&lt;/a&gt; deals no damage to a player and hence its controller does not draw a card, so too a creature with deathtouch assigning 0 damage to a creature cannot destroy that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has 1,000,000 attackers (e.g. through &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Splinter%20Twin&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deceiver%20Exarch&quot;&gt;Deceiver Exarch&lt;/a&gt; combo), and you wish to survive and kill all those creatures, I encourage you to look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Engulfing%20Slagwurm&quot;&gt;Engulfing Slagwurm&lt;/a&gt; which has a kind of &amp;quot;Super Deathtouch&amp;quot; which just kills any creature that blocks or becomes blocked by it, giving you life equal to those creatures toughness. In the example I just gave, you would not only survive but stand to gain 4,000,000 life in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T10:01:07.503" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T10:01:07.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T10:50:29.153" Score="3" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I want to organize a game night. Most of our friends like to play board games - they are familiar with games like Settlers of Catan and Ticket to Ride. However we are more adventurous. Besides making new friends, what are some ideas for how to organize a game night with friends who like games but who are not board game aficionados?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T17:37:07.613" Title="Organizing a game night with non-gamers?" Tags="|teaching|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5023" CreationDate="2013-11-11T12:08:42.263" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Khalni Gem can also be used to reduce your number of lands in play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6135" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T12:08:42.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13454" CreationDate="2013-11-11T16:49:13.973" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the size of the group and the time allotted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get games where people do not loose, though people can win. E.g. everybody keeps playing until the end and the player with the highest score wins.Not a game where people get killed and then have to watch the rest play for another 4 hours. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Titan_%28game%29&quot;&gt;Titan&lt;/a&gt;, I am looking at you).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do not get uber long games. E.g. no Titan, no &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doom%3a_The_Boardgame&quot;&gt;Doom, the board game&lt;/a&gt;, no &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/72125/eclipse&quot;&gt;eclipse&lt;/a&gt; (the game can be short, but NOT on the first time you play it).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start with relative easy on-complex games to start with. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6249/alhambra&quot;&gt;Alhambra&lt;/a&gt;. Of if you play Catan make sure it is the basic version and not the game and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/4101/catan-cities-knights-5-6-player-extension&quot;&gt;Cities and knights&lt;/a&gt; extension.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get a few short games to fill time gaps. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11/bohnanza&quot;&gt;bohnanza&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1264/der-schattendieb&quot;&gt;Der Schattendieb&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have 7 or 8 players consider running to games simultaneously. E.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21790/thurn-and-taxis&quot;&gt;thurn-and-taxis&lt;/a&gt; (up to 4 players), basic catan for those who never played it before starting on a more complex game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2651/power-grid&quot;&gt;powergrid&lt;/a&gt; etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, consider a few non board games for variation. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/286/machiavelli&quot;&gt;Machiavelli&lt;/a&gt; can be played with a large group.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On games nights I also like to pre-arrange food. Usually with some short games while people arrive and the cook (mostly me) cooks, then dinner, a &lt;strong&gt;clean&lt;/strong&gt; table and some games. Add some non-greasy snacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5231" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T16:49:13.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13459" CreationDate="2013-11-11T16:54:16.103" Score="3" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheetah's ability is to &quot;gain any card with cost 4 or less from the line-up.&quot; While playing the game the group has been split on whether this means take one card or take all cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cards that specify to take all cards and I think some others specify to take one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T17:16:06.527" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T12:49:10.983" Title="Does &quot;any&quot; mean &quot;all&quot; or &quot;one&quot; for cards like Cheetah?" Tags="|dc-comics-deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13457" CreationDate="2013-11-11T17:42:52.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/894212/cheetahs-ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; (which cites a play-tester), it means you can take any &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; card. At the end of the thread, game designer Matt Hyra (one of the co-designers for the game) corroborated this and added the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just as an FYI for future card reading: If a card gains &amp;quot;all&amp;quot; of something, it would be written like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain all card&lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt; with cost 4 or less from the Line-Up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty common in card game terminology (citation needed I suppose?) where being able to take all cards would say &amp;quot;all&amp;quot; or similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T12:49:10.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13446" CreationDate="2013-11-11T18:18:36.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a house rule designation for the moment until an actual rules clarification is presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have always treated the evolution draw step as being resolved after the roll and unable to affect the current dice roll.  Beyond that the cards may be played at anytime (so long as they were in hand already) and the effects going into effect immediately including resolving before dice resolve (i.e. healing when damage occurs before being knocked out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6000" LastEditorUserId="6000" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T18:27:39.550" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T18:27:39.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T19:40:05.000" Score="5" ViewCount="4955" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my partner opens one heart, and I respond one spade, am I showing four or five spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6136" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T20:24:14.987" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T09:15:33.807" Title="If partner opens one heart, what do I need to respond with one spade?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|openings|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13461" CreationDate="2013-11-11T21:54:08.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Standard American bidding (and 2/1 game forcing for that matter), after partner's 1H opening, 1S promises at least 4 spades. After 1H-1S, partner's mostly likely calls are 1NT (5332 shape with no more than 14 HCP), 2 of a minor (5-4 or better in the bid suits, may have anything short of a game force in terms of values), 2H (6+ hearts, probably less than 17 high card points), 2NT (18-19 HCP, 5332 shape), or some number of spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 1H-1S-1NT, your rebids:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2H: This is a tough one. Probably 5 spades, a doubleton heart honor, and shortness in one of the minors. You're taking the position that playing 2H in a 5-2 fit is better than playing 1NT (if you had 3 hearts and a weak hand, you shouldn't have bothered to show spades).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2S: The 2S rebid shows a weak hand, usually with 6+ spades (though it could be an exceptionally weak hand with shortness somewhere and only 5 spades, e.g. Qxxxx x Kxx xxxx, which rates to take 0-1 tricks at NT but a few tricks with spades as trumps).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2NT: Invitational values, likely exactly 4 spades and 2 hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3NT: Game forcing values, likely exactly 4 spades and 2 hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2m: You should have a discussion with your partners about this auction, but SAYC says this should be non-forcing and natural.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3H: 3-card heart support, invitational values.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;pass: any weakish hand not covered above.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 1H-1S-2m:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pass: A weak hand with 3- or 4-card support for the minor and usually a singleton or void in hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2H: A weak hand, virtually guaranteed to have a heart doubleton (again, with 3-card support, why not raise hearts in the first place?)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2S: Shows 6 spades or better (or, more rarely, a weak 5-5 in spades and the unbid minor with a singleton heart). With other shapes and a weak hand, correct to 2H with a doubleton heart or pass partner's minor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2NT: Balanced, invitational.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3m: 4-card support for the minor, invitational values.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3S: 6+ spades, invitational values&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The fourth suit at the cheapest level: forcing for one round, unable to make a natural bid at this point. Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interested in 3NT but unable to stop the unbid minor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interested in slam in one of partner's suits and thus unwilling to jump directly to game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interest in a spade slam but require more information from partner&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 1H-1S-2H:&#xA; - 2S: This shows a weak hand with 6 spades or better and likely a heart void; why else correct from partner's 6-card suit to yours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2NT: Natural, invitational.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3m: Natural and game forcing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;3H: Invitational with 3 hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this doesn't cover all the bases, but it lays out some of the most common situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T21:54:08.173" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13463" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-11T22:10:49.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;DC Comics Deck-Building Game (2012, 3-5 players, 45 minutes) is a deck-building card game where players spend super power and equipment to gather better powers and equipment to take out super villains and increase their victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastEditorUserId="6122" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T22:16:32.173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:16:32.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13464" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-11T22:10:49.353" Score="0" Body="DC Comics Deck-Building Game (2012, 3-5 players, 45 minutes) is a deck-building card game where players spend super power and equipment to gather better powers and equipment to take out super villains and increase their victory points." OwnerUserId="6122" LastEditorUserId="6122" LastEditDate="2013-11-11T22:16:28.910" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:16:28.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8934" CreationDate="2013-11-11T22:50:28.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The linked picture is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/194574/first-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;first edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 1982 copyright suggests it may be a later printing of that edition (2nd edition was 1984)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T22:50:28.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T23:00:42.913" Score="2" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;In noting the importance of defense in overall bridge scores, a bridge teacher opined that half or more contracts were either defeated or could have been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if available records of the results in pairs or duplicate tournaments could prove or disprove this statement. Specifically, I was wondering about the proportion of &quot;contested contracts&quot; that some declarers made, and some defenders defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our purposes, a &quot;contested contract&quot; in a pairs tournament will be one where the declarer made it in one room, and the defense defeated in the other room. A declarer's contract will be one that both declarers made, and a defender's contract will be one that both defenders defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;contested contract&quot; in a duplicate tournament will be one that declarers and defenders made and defeated in non- lopsided proportions. A declarer's contract will be one that most declarers made, and a defender's contract will be one that most defenders defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there percentage breakdowns of contested, versus declarers' and defenders' contracts from tournaments? And do they show that the percentages of defeated plus contested (and presumably defeatable) contracts is greater than 50 per cent? Or are declarers supposed to make more than 50 per cent of their contracts because bidding systems are constructed that way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T20:22:19.880" Title="Can one show that a majority of bridge hands could have been successfully defended?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13461" CreationDate="2013-11-11T23:30:26.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need only four spades to respond one spade. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your partner opens, you are expected to try to keep the bidding open if possible.&#xA;That's why you need only four of a major to respond, and as little six points (although you may have a lot more). The fact that you have four spades is valuable information. Your bid (in a new suit) is forcing, meaning that you will get a chance to bid again and show your other values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A small percentage of the time, partner will be 5-4 in hearts and spades, and be able to raise  spades, and you'll have a 4-4 fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More often, there will be a try for a no trump contract. Partner may bid no trump if spades is the only suit where s/he is short. If partner is 5-4 in hearts and a minor, the minor will be bid, and if you have the other minor, you can bid no trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, you'll find a 4-4 fit in a minor, and make a part score. Game is unlikely unless you and partner have at least 28-29 points between you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-11-11T23:30:26.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-11T23:47:47.530" Score="5" ViewCount="1525" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just played my first games of Eclipse, and I kind of like it, but it hase some features that kinda bug me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all - &lt;strong&gt;player elimination&lt;/strong&gt;. For the first two games, I got crushed around round 5-6. Worse still, I was not eradicated, so I got to &lt;strong&gt;sit at the table feeling bored and frustrated&lt;/strong&gt;, being able to do nothing of meaning but still not being able to leave and play something else. I know this is typical for Amerithrash games, but I would like to at least mitigate this effect in some way, or at least make the game shorter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second of all - &lt;strong&gt;randomness&lt;/strong&gt; everywhere! In this game, you've got two enemies. The other players, and the game's random elements. Not only do you have to learn how to play and what to do in the first place, &lt;strong&gt;you learn how to work your way around the bad tile/technology draws&lt;/strong&gt; AND you have to fight your opponents! This means you need at least a few games followed by a good analysis to start playing at least somewhat correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Those two elements make a killer combo&lt;/strong&gt;. The random tile draw mechanism just helps you make a bad decision or provides hurdles to get through before you can get to the realisation of your plans/hunting down other players. In both my games I put a loop around my own neck, but that would be fine - if it wouldnt mean sitting at the table for another hour doing nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While I like the game&lt;/strong&gt;, I like the theme, I like the action economy and almost simultaneous actions, the technology and ship building, but &lt;strong&gt;I cant imagine showing it to my playgroup&lt;/strong&gt;. A game that needs  at least 4 plays to get a real hang of it, while each of them takes at least 2-3 hours and makes someone miserable for half of that time WONT see enough table time to our group to like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like most parts of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space theme&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tile placement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fleet production and battles with other players using it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resource/economy management&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some sort of tech upgrades for military/economy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actions tied to economy with increasing costs per action (another example of a game using this mechanic would be the Expansion to Attack!) and players doing only one action at once to prevent huge downtimes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I like that military conquest is not only way to win the game, and usually its not enough to win by itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to get the play experience of the elements mentioned above without discouraging my playgroup at the game introduction stage?&lt;/strong&gt; How do I get all the cool stuff from eclipse without getting the steep learning curve and hard knocks during learning the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5223" LastEditDate="2013-11-13T12:15:13.110" LastActivityDate="2017-05-05T15:05:51.433" Title="Problems with learning curve and player elimination in Eclipse" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13454" CreationDate="2013-11-12T09:03:26.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think an important thing when you are introducing new games to players, especially if the players are not used to these types of games, is to explain the dynamics that will be new to them when they play this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are familiar with Settlers of Catan, maybe try and explain some of the new mechanics of whatever new game you are playing in terms of similar situations that might come up in a game of Settler of Catan. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a lot of Werewolf (or Mafia as you may know it) and something I always do when new players join the group is explain the rules of the game, and then go one step further and explain some basic dynamics and interactions that will happen so that there is a sense of familiarity for the new people as the game unfolds. They will be more likely to notice things that I told them might happen, so they feel more comfortable and more knowledgeable about the game from the beginning. That has really been successful for the new players I've taught the game to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T09:03:26.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13471" CreationDate="2013-11-12T10:07:48.410" Score="1" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose my opponent attacks with 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=grizzly%20bears&quot;&gt;grizzly bears&lt;/a&gt; and I control 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=palace%20guard&quot;&gt;palace guard&lt;/a&gt;. I am on 1 life and must block both creatures to survive. I elect to block both creatures with both my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=palace%20guard&quot;&gt;palace guard&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, my assumption is that both the attacker and blockers must assign a damage order for their creatures, however this is confusing as each player can potentially choose a different order. I am at a loss as to what happens in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How are combatants ordered in this situation, and do player decisions have any significant impact on the outcome?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T14:35:33.037" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T15:11:48.597" Title="What happens with palace guard and other blockers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13470" CreationDate="2013-11-12T14:03:18.660" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;each blocking creature&lt;/strong&gt;, you choose the order of the creatures that it is assigning damage to. So, for your palace guards, you have 4 total options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Palace Guard 1 and Palace Guard 2 both assign damage to Bear 1 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Palace Guard 1 and Palace Guard 2 both assign damage to Bear 2 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Palace Guard 1 assigns damage to Bear 1 first, Palace Guard 2 assigns damage to Bear 2 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Palace Guard 1 assigns damage to Bear 2 first, Palace Guard 2 assigns damage to Bear 1 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose either #1 or #2, you will do 2 damage to 1 Bear and kill it, while not touching the other Bear. If you choose #3 or #4, you will do 1 damage to each Bear, and not kill anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for &lt;strong&gt;each attacking creature&lt;/strong&gt; Your opponent gets to choose the order that your blocking creatures will take damage, so he also has 4 total choice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bear 1 and Bear 2 both assign damage to Palace Guard 1 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bear 1 and Bear 2 both assign damage to Palace Guard 2 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bear 1 assigns damage to Palace Guard 1 first, Bear 2 assigns damage to Palace Guard 2 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bear 1 assigns damage to Palace Guard 2 first, Bear 2 assigns damage to Palace Guard 1 first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to your choices, if he chooses #1 or #2, he will deal 4 damage to 1 Palace Guard and kill it; if he chooses #3 or #4, he will deal 2 damage to each Palace Guard and won't kill anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.2. Second, for each attacking creature that’s become blocked, the active player announces that &#xA;  creature’s damage assignment order, which consists of the creatures blocking it in an order of that &#xA;  player’s choice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.3. Third, for each blocking creature, the defending player announces that creature’s damage &#xA;  assignment order, which consists of the creatures it’s blocking in an order of that player’s choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is that players get to choose separately how each attacking creature (and each blocking creature) orders/assigns its damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-11-12T15:11:48.597" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T15:11:48.597" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13431" CreationDate="2013-11-12T16:28:10.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will die but Cathars' Crusaides ability will still trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on gatherer for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366354&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Illness in Ranks&lt;/a&gt; has this to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect creates a creature token that normally has toughness 1,&#xA;  it will enter the battlefield with toughness 0, be put into its&#xA;  owner's graveyard as a state-based action, and then cease to exist.&#xA;  Any abilities that trigger when a creature enters the battlefield or&#xA;  dies will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T16:28:10.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13454" CreationDate="2013-11-12T17:37:07.613" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I think Catan is too long.  Ticket to Ride is fast, Dominion is fast, 7 Wonders is fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-11-12T17:37:07.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13477" CreationDate="2013-11-12T20:40:58.260" Score="23" ViewCount="47118" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 32 houses in Monopoly. That's only enough to cover eight properties with four houses each, or two full (three property) monopolies, plus one two property monopoly, either Boardwalk-Park Place, or Mediterranean-Baltic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I own two full monopolies, and cover them with four houses each, there are only eight houses left, meaning that except for either Boardwalk-Park Place, or Mediterranean-Baltic, no third monopoly can go up to the crtical three house level on all three properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that I should keep four houses each on my two monopolies and NOT upgrade them to hotels? Or if someone wants houses, maybe I should at least force them to give me another Monopoly (or railroads or cash) in order to agree to free up houses by upgrading to a hotel? (This might come into play if another opponent and I both had four houses each on our respective monopolies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember playing years ago with two house rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if someone could cover all their properties with hotels outright they were allowed to do so without buying houses (if they could afford to do so)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if someone had four houses on a property, you could force them to free up houses by paying for their upgrade to a hotel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I find puzzling is that  there are 12 hotels, enough to cover all the properties from four full (three-property) monopolies. And taken together, the hotels and houses can cover six full monopolies, plus a seventh, either Boardwalk-Park Place, or Mediterranean-Baltic, with either a hotel or four houses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So was it the intent of the game designers that the board be covered this way? Or is a housing shortage just another &quot;monopoly&quot; that creates a further shortage over and above the physical building limits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T09:48:13.543" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T16:09:21.607" Title="Does the &quot;housing shortage&quot; rule suggest that you should often refrain from buying hotels in monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13474" CreationDate="2013-11-12T22:33:12.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. It's a deliberate choice, and the rules are such that if there are no houses available you cannot upgrade to hotels - so that it is a perfectly valid tactic to buy 3-4 houses for all your properties and thus prevent opponents from getting hotels. In fact, if I remember correctly, 3 houses is about the point where you get maximum returns relative to money spent for most properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="27374" LastEditDate="2020-12-28T13:27:07.643" LastActivityDate="2020-12-28T13:27:07.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13466" CreationDate="2013-11-12T23:14:06.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What level of play are we talking - world class or novice or somewhere in between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any player who is making or defeating an inappropriately large, or small, percentage of contracts weighted by point value is inefficient by definition, and thus is &lt;strong&gt;a poor player&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good players make and defeat the right number of contracts, weighted by point value (for the scoring type - match-points, rubber, IMPS or board-a-match), because &lt;strong&gt;that is the definition of competent play&lt;/strong&gt;. Given the close competition of most world championship finals, those players are all efficient, and thus actually good players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It's widely accepted that defense in Bridge is more challenging than offense. Is that not semantically equivalent to stating that, double-dummy, most contracts &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be defeated (by perfect defense). Only a naïve or extremely weak declarer is not going to bid aggressively, on the premise of taking proper advantage of the greater difficulty of defending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T20:22:19.880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T20:22:19.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13474" CreationDate="2013-11-12T23:16:20.910" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Monopoly/Official_Rules&quot;&gt;Official Rules of Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; (my &lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bank has a fixed supply of 32 houses and 12 hotels. &lt;strong&gt;If more players decide to build more houses at the same time than there are houses in the bank, the houses are auctioned off one at a time to the highest bidder.&lt;/strong&gt; This rule favors the owners of expensive properties, for which the houses cost more in the first place, because the auction price of a house is not tied to the value of the property on which it will be placed. It is not possible to buy more houses than there is available in the bank. This could stop people buying hotels in the future!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://richard_wilding.tripod.com/monorules.htm&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the Bank has no houses to sell, players wishing to build must wait for some player to return or sell their houses to the Bank before building. &lt;strong&gt;If there are a limited number of houses and hotels available and two or more players wish to buy more than the Bank has, the houses or hotels must be sold at auction to the highest bidder.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: - Interpretation and application&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see the purchase of hotels in Monopoly as an endgame tactic, not a mid-game tactic. Similar to a &lt;em&gt;running-game&lt;/em&gt; double in backgammon by the leader, which is meant not to increase the stakes but to eliminate the opportunity for the opponent to get lucky and squeak out a win. The purchase of hotels is properly done when one is already firmly in the lead, and thus that the &lt;em&gt;housing shortage&lt;/em&gt; period of the game (a possible definition of the mid-game period actually) is already past. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One then buys hotels because opponents do not actually have enough money to purchase the released assets. By further increasing one's rents one can increase the pain of each landing on your property, and reduce the opponents' opportunity to rebuild a cash stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T14:25:11.137" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T14:25:11.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-13T01:01:44.867" Score="9" ViewCount="12004" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family has a version of &quot;Muggins&quot; that has been handed down from generation to generation (at least 3 generations, maybe more).   The rules that we play by are different than other versions that I've been able to find online or in rule books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really like to be able to make this game playable online so that our family can log in and play it together over the internet.  What is the best way to define the rules of a card game into a multi-player internet website?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5911" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T08:41:30.197" Title="Making a family card game playable online" Tags="|online|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6330" CreationDate="2013-11-13T01:02:23.047" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alternatively online would be non-threatening.  Such as teaching tables on www.bridgebaseonline.com  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T01:02:23.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13478" CreationDate="2013-11-13T03:12:25.170" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/&quot;&gt;VASSAL&lt;/a&gt; was made for precisely this: it's a game engine/website where you can build games, and then play the games you built online. There are a wide variety of existing games already built for VASSAL, but Muggins is not one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will not be simple: you're going to need to learn how to program the game using VASSAL's editor. It'll take time and effort, but you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be able to re-create your family game of Muggins, house rules and all. Once you've built the game (the site calls it a &quot;module&quot;), VASSAL will host the game, so your family can join; you don't need to worry about the details of building a website yourself. VASSAL is free, though the site appreciates donations to keep it running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T03:12:25.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6330" CreationDate="2013-11-13T05:26:27.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a life-long player and evangelist for bridge, who has enjoyed success at many levels of play from tournaments to kitchens. Like your son, I learned the basics of bridge at 6 or 7 (in my case from Goren's AutoBridge), but went another 10 years before encountering a group of like-minded individuals in high school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A major obstacle IMHO to wider acceptance of bridge (in North America - it is thriving in other parts of the world) is the perceived need to play the full current game as invented by Vanderbilt. Bridge (meaning Auction Bridge and Plafonde and other variations including Auction Whist and Contract Whist) was already a mass phenomenon before Vanderbilt's new Contract scoring table. The ability to gradually step up to more challenging variations of the game may have been a key driver of Bridge's popular success from the '30's through the '60's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest playing not just Contract Bridge with your son, but exposing him to whichever variation is playable by the opponents at hand. Play a Whist variant with less serious players from your group; play Auction Bridge with opponents interested in a slightly greater challenge, and wait to see if any of your regular group decides to step up to Contract. Play 9-5-2 Whist when three people are waiting for a fourth to show up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play some Poker, to help your son learn the elements of bluffing both as allowed, and as not allowed, in Bridge, so he can better distinguish them. Play some Rummy to work on his card memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oswald_Jacoby&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oswald Jacoby&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howard_Schenken&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Howard Schenken&lt;/a&gt; were not only amongst the very top world-class bridge players of their time, but also widely regarded as the best Backgammon and Gin Rummy players, respectively of their generation. While I believe Bridge to be a more multi-dimensional game than either of these, both of these will strengthen specific aspects of your son's bridge playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If need be, play simple Hearts or one of the many German-derived trick-taking games described in any good Hoyle. All of these games will teach your son card-playing skills that carry over well to Contract Bridge. The opportunity to observe opponents in these many different, yet similar&amp;lt; environments will encourage card-reading, and opponent-reading skill development by your son. All the top players are amazing technicians, but the very best have an ability to read opponents that is often uncanny, and which I believe comes from exposure to opponents in wider circumstances than just the Contract Bridge table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But above all, &lt;strong&gt;play a card game&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Maurice_de_Talleyrand-P%C3%A9rigord&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Talleyrand&lt;/a&gt;, on observing 4 young women who refused to learn Whist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What a sorry old age you are preparing for yourselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T22:34:02.693" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T22:34:02.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13485" CreationDate="2013-11-13T10:57:24.300" Score="7" ViewCount="2527" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some rules, such as many of the achievements, that advance the chapter end marker in Mice and Mystics. Which other rules, cards or events do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our experiences so far are that the hourglass advances pretty quickly. We already lost two times in the first level because of this. So I am interested if we missed some rules that play in our favour, and which for example advance the end marker, to give us more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T14:31:08.947" Title="Which rules advance the chapter end marker in Mice and Mystics?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13484" CreationDate="2013-11-13T14:31:08.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only things that move it are achievements and specific story line events that will be listed in the story book.  I believe Chapter 1 has one or two of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some tips for keeping the pages from advancing too quickly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to get the first attack.  Most rooms start with the monsters a ways away from you.  If you act first, hold back out of their range.  They will blindly charge forward and you will be able to get in the first attack next round.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't be too stingy with your cheese.  Using special abilities kills monsters faster, reducing the number of dice you roll that could come up cheese.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't spend a lot of time searching after you've killed the last enemy.  Try to have the last mouse on the track be in position to explore, and only let the people in between search.  Some times you can delay killing the last enemy to give yourself a bit more time, but this can also backfire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't spend a lot of actions healing during battle.  Kill the enemies first, then heal before leaving the room.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If someone is getting close to an achievement like Roach Master, you can leave the final kills for them so that they can advance the end marker for you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T14:31:08.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13468" CreationDate="2013-11-13T17:45:44.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Full disclosure: I have never played eclipse.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what you describe about what you like and what you don't like I have some suggestions to make this game shorter and easier to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House rules to the rescue!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would start by making the game semi random. In really though draw based games where I am struggling with a multifaceted mechanic, I remove some of the facets so that I can focus on learning how to play with the others. In this case I would say eliminate an amount of 'bad' tiles/cards to perhaps focus on one facet of the game's strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game that does this flawlessly(where I got the idea) is Fluxx. With each 'flavor' of Fluxx there are new keepers and other cards added that are not core to the game. By removing them you can get the hang of the game and then incorporate the new content, modifying your strategy as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy often comes with a minimum of two benefits: it makes it easier to play at the outset and it also will usually unbalance the game and thus shorten time to a win condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like the idea of playing with fewer tiles or removing some of the bad ones, set up a limited number of times that you can 're-draw' if you truly think the card you drew is going to ruin you.(Think bennies from Savage Worlds) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to keep most of the balance and length of the game, but allow for exceptions with new players who are struggling to learn the strategy that may be totally destroyed by one bad draw because they had no idea that horrible thing could happen and thus never planned for it..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also enforce a team play situation: You can not win if player X has lost the game. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11768/what-to-do-in-long-games-with-players-who-are-way-behind/11774#11774&quot;&gt;In another answer I made this same suggestion.&lt;/a&gt; Play with 'conditional' alliances until there are only two players left, then it is all out war. This has the benefit of freeing up at least two players to play something else while the game goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By eliminating some of the randomness and by enforcing 'conditional' alliances, you will see that the games will become shorter and the mechanics can be focused on. Eventually when everyone has a handle on the most basic strategy, you can include all the games original content little by little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also adds the benefit of making the game a bit 'new' each time you play and can make it a bit more interesting to learn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T19:06:01.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2013-11-13T18:36:01.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with the original game, the more you play the In the Lab expansion, the better you get at it. When I started playing the original version with my friends, it was hard to win with 4 regular epidemics but, by the time we got the expansion pack, we were beating the game easily with 6 epidemics (or 5 virulent strain epidemics with the added mutation disease if you have the On the Brink expansion).  With the In the Lab expansion, we have almost never been able to win with 5 virulent strain epidemics and the mutation disease.  It seems like the more you add (such as virulent strain and mutation) In the Lab is harder than the regular game, but it will all depend as time goes by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6148" LastActivityDate="2013-11-13T18:36:01.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13489" CreationDate="2013-11-13T21:36:40.860" Score="9" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashiok%2C%20Nightmare%20Weaver&quot;&gt;Ashiok, Nightmare Weaver&lt;/a&gt; has the following abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+2: Exile the top three cards of target opponent's library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-X: Put a creature card with converted mana cost X exiled with Ashiok, Nightmare Weaver onto the battlefield under your control. That creature is a Nightmare in addition to its other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-10: Exile all cards from all opponents' hands and graveyards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I use the +2 ability, do I exile the cards face up so that my opponent gets to see them, or can I hide that information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T17:34:06.230" Title="Are cards exiled with Ashiok revealed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13488" CreationDate="2013-11-13T21:45:27.280" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;406.3. Exiled cards are, &lt;strong&gt;by default, kept face up and may be examined by any player at any time. Cards &quot;exiled face down&quot; can't be examined by any player except when instructions allow it.&lt;/strong&gt; However, once a player is allowed to look at a card exiled face down, that player may continue to look at that card as long as it remains exiled, even if the instruction allowing the player to do so no longer applies. A card exiled face down has no characteristics, but the spell or ability that exiled it may allow it to be played from exile. Unless that card is being cast face down (see rule 707.4), the card is turned face up just before the player announces that he or she is playing the card (see rule 601.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T17:34:06.230" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T17:34:06.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13492" CreationDate="2013-11-14T03:04:15.223" Score="6" ViewCount="681" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent activates &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%20Jura&quot;&gt;Gideon Jura&lt;/a&gt;'s first ability targeting me, and I attack with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kessig%20Cagebreakers&quot;&gt;Kessig Cagebreakers&lt;/a&gt;, do the tokens have to attack Gideon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T03:37:22.723" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T03:37:22.723" Title="If creatures enter the battlefield attacking, do they have to attack Gideon Jura?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13490" CreationDate="2013-11-14T05:55:52.940" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the tokens are not forced to attack Gideon the turn they are put on the battlefield. They can attack the defending player or another planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gideon's first ability is a requirement placed on the turn-based action of declaring attackers. That action is the first thing the attacking player do in the declare attackers step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tokens created by Cagebreakers are not declared as attackers when the restriction is being applied, therefore they are not affected by it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this ruling for Cagebreakers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although the tokens are attacking, they were never declared as&#xA;  attacking creatures (for purposes of abilities that trigger whenever a&#xA;  creature attacks, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this ruling for Gideon Jura:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first ability only affects the declaration of attackers. If a&#xA;  creature is put onto the battlefield attacking (thanks to Hero of&#xA;  Bladehold, Preeminent Captain, or the Ninjutsu ability, for example),&#xA;  that creature's controller may choose the defending player or&#xA;  planeswalker that it will be attacking in the normal way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T06:03:42.577" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T06:03:42.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12561" CreationDate="2013-11-14T11:46:48.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;in the meantime you can use these printable ones :)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/91736/smash-up-base-mats&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/91736/smash-up-base-mats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6150" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T11:46:48.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13504" CreationDate="2013-11-14T12:28:01.913" Score="5" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost my movement dice from Runebound. So I am trying to figure out what is on the different sides so I can use a normal D6. Anyone have images of the different sides or can give me a list of what is on each side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ok so based on the answers below the sides should be:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plain, Mountain, Road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hills, Plains, Road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;River, Forest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;River, Road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hills, Plains, Road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;River, Swamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5308" LastEditorUserId="1946" LastEditDate="2014-06-15T09:53:25.517" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T09:53:25.517" Title="What do the sides of the movement dice in Runebound look like?" Tags="|dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13498" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:15:44.537" Score="3" ViewCount="4970" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Galvanoth&quot;&gt;Galvanoth&lt;/a&gt; out and the card that is revealed is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skyscribing&quot;&gt;Skyscribing&lt;/a&gt;, am I able to tap lands to pay for the X amount?  Would this be any different with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jeleva%2C%20Nephalia%27s%20Scourge&quot;&gt;Jeleva, Nephalia&amp;#39;s Scourge&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4763" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T15:49:11.743" Title="Tapping land for mana with free cast and X in cost" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13468" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:35:04.033" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Make it fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our group turns it into a social event. Playing casually, we don't &quot;gang up&quot; or try hard to get eliminations, but we do try to win. Even so, eliminations are pretty rare and randomness is fun. Finally, if the game is too long for you, play another game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As everyone gets more skilled, you can make it more and more competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:35:04.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:44:02.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on gatherer for the Galvanoth says as much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the card has an X in its mana cost, you must choose 0 as its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:44:02.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2013-11-14T16:45:25.990" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, in both cases, you cannot tap additional lands to pay for the X. X, if it's not specified on a card, is always considered to be zero. In both cases, the spell's cost is not being paid for, it's being replaced. Galvanoth and Jeleva aren't saying &quot;Add mana to your mana pool equal to the casting cost&quot;, they are replacing the cost altogether. So you can't add anything addional to the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant Gathering rules for Galvanoth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the card has an X in its mana cost, you must choose 0 as its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T16:45:25.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2013-11-14T19:31:52.470" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;X always = 0 for CMC (converted mana cost) when X cannot be tapped for mana.  As far as the 2nd question Jeleva's CMC would be 4. (edit) But the X amount paid would thus be 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6153" LastEditorUserId="6153" LastEditDate="2013-11-14T20:37:12.567" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T20:37:12.567" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2013-11-14T20:22:28.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell, first you determine what cost you're going to pay from among your options. For example, when casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Will&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, you choose between {3}{U}{U} and &amp;quot;exile a blue card from your hand and lose 1 life.&amp;quot; Effects such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Galvanoth&quot;&gt;Galvanoth&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jeleva&quot;&gt;Jeleva&lt;/a&gt; only give you one option, &amp;quot;without paying its mana cost.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an {X}-cost spell, you choose X and use that choice to set the cost of the spell... but if you're casting the spell without paying {X}, your only legal choice for X is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've made all other decisions about casting the spell (hybrid color choice, phyrexian mana, modal spell modes, targets, etc.), you apply cost increasers (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphere%20of%20Resistance&quot;&gt;Sphere of Resistance&lt;/a&gt;), then cost reducers (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Awakening&quot;&gt;Helm of Awakening&lt;/a&gt;), and then finally you apply the effects of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trinisphere&quot;&gt;Trinisphere&lt;/a&gt;. (Note: Your choice for X comes a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time before cost increasers and Trinisphere, so when you're casting your spell for &amp;quot;free,&amp;quot; X is still going to remain 0, even if there are a bunch of taxes in play.) &lt;em&gt;Then&lt;/em&gt; the spell is cast, and players get priority to do other things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you can tap more lands than the mana required to cast the spell, that won't generally do anything -- you'll just be floating mana. It also doesn't help much strategically, since (a) the floating mana is lost as soon as the turn advances to the next step or phase, and (b) you're required* to announce floating mana when you pass priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* While you're &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to announce floating mana every time you pass priority, it's unlikely anyone is going to care if it's obvious that the amount has not changed since the last time you announced it, for example during the resolution of a series of Storm spell copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T15:49:11.743" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T15:49:11.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13495" CreationDate="2013-11-14T20:32:37.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In both case, you are casting a card without paying its mana cost, so the answer is the same: The only legal choice for X is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.3b If a player is casting a spell that has an {X} in its mana cost, the value of X isn’t defined by the text of that spell, and an effect lets that player cast that spell while paying neither its mana cost nor an alternative cost that includes X, then &lt;strong&gt;the only legal choice for X is 0&lt;/strong&gt;. This doesn’t apply to effects that only reduce a cost, even if they reduce it to zero. See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's even a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Galvanoth&quot;&gt;Galvanoth&lt;/a&gt; confirming this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card has an X in its mana cost, you must choose 0 as its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T20:32:37.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2013-11-14T21:19:31.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could provide a set structure for the game mechanism while keeping the actual content of the game to be defined by teacher and students.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows less skilled people to join in while these boundaries (you may call them guiding principles) to provide guidance and inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: think of a customised happy families (kwartet in Dutch) as one of the easiest examples. The content could be the actual course material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6157" LastActivityDate="2013-11-14T21:19:31.380" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13494" CreationDate="2013-11-15T13:25:05.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As previously mentioned, someone made &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/80528/runebound-movement-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cards&lt;/a&gt; to replace the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following cards are in his deck: (Ignoring &quot;city&quot; he added to every card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6x Road, Plains, Hills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Road, Plains, Mountain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Road, River&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x River, Forest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x River, Swamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's safe to say the following represent the face of the dice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road, Plains, Hills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road, Plains, Hills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road, Plains, Mountain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Road, River&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;River, Forest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;River, Swamp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you were correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/client/Products/ProdimageLg/VA05a.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these dice&lt;/a&gt; are all identical, they have the following faces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            +-----------+&#xA;            |       Ro  |&#xA;            |          &amp;gt;|&#xA;            |  Ri       |&#xA;+-----------+-----------+-----------+&#xA;|     Hi    |       Mo  |  Ro ^ Pl  |&#xA;|           | Rd       &amp;gt;|           |&#xA;|  Pl v Ro  |       Pl  |     Hi    |&#xA;+-----------+-----------+-----------+&#xA;            |       Ri  |&#xA;            |          &amp;gt;|   Ro Road&#xA;            |  Fo       |   Ri River&#xA;            +-----------+   Hi Hills&#xA;            |       Ri  |   Mo Mountain&#xA;            |&amp;lt;          |   Fo Forest&#xA;            |  Sw       |   Sw Swamp&#xA;            +-----------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;^&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;v&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; denotes the top edge of the face. The icons are already correctly placed within the square. This indicates which way they should be facing. e.g. The Swamp will appear in the top-left corner of the face, while the Forest will appear in the bottom-right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T18:26:34.043" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T18:26:34.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15585" CreationDate="2013-11-15T13:47:59.507" Score="2" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've the 1987 edition of Auf Achse. Would be interested in an answer for that and if it's any different in the 2007 version.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When moving past other trucks, the rules translation we have (from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamecabinet.com/rules/AufAchse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Games Cabinet&lt;/a&gt;, a pre BGG resource) uses the word 'miss' for the occupied space, so we treat the occupied space as if it does not exist.  However, I'm not that confident of the translation given a number of other errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play that a roll of &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; results in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;-- Started here -- Empty space -- Another Truck here -- Empty space -- Ended up here --&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:49:55.627" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T20:49:55.627" Title="Is this movement through other trucks in Auf Achse correct?" Tags="|auf-achse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13508" CreationDate="2013-11-15T14:53:52.240" Score="3" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/lg/en/148.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Glyph of Destruction&lt;/a&gt; was originally worded: &quot;Target wall you control gains +10/+0 when blocking.&quot; To me, that indicates that you could cast it any time, i.e. outside of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Gather wording is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target blocking Wall you control gets +10/+0 until end of combat. Prevent all damage that would be dealt to it this turn. Destroy it at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Gatherer now says &quot;Target blocking Wall&quot;, does that mean I have to declare the Wall as a blocker before I cast the Glyph? I'm trying to come up with some Glyph/Fling shenanigans for a deck and I need to know if I have to block before I use this trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T01:59:57.740" Title="When can I cast Glyph of Destruction?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13509" CreationDate="2013-11-15T15:00:08.027" Score="4" ViewCount="1357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a red instant and sorceries deck featuring &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/c13/en/103.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Charmbreaker Devils&lt;/a&gt;. As I understand it, this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, return an instant or sorcery card at random from your graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is a triggered ability. So I should be able to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m14/en/224.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt; to copy it. How exactly does copying it work? Is there a chance that the same card in my graveyard is chosen twice, or will I always get two instants or sorceries back, as long as there are two to start with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-15T15:10:57.207" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T12:16:03.837" Title="How do Strionic Resonator and Charmbreaker Devils interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13506" CreationDate="2013-11-15T15:06:28.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your wall has to be declared a blocker before you can target it with that glyph. Your wall remains a blocker (and thus a legal target) until the end of that combat phase, though you'll have to target it before the Combat Damage step if you want it to actually deal that +10 damage in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature is only considered blocking or attacking once it is declared as such, and ceases to be those things once combat is over. There is no such thing as a blocking or attacking creature outside of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-16T01:59:57.740" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T01:59:57.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13507" CreationDate="2013-11-15T15:10:25.203" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following describes what happens, in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charmbreaker Devils's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charmbreaker Devils's ability is placed on the stack. [Stack: CD]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Strionic Resonator's ability targeting Charmbreaker Devils's ability.  [Stack: SR, CD]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strionic Resonator's ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a copy of Charmbreaker Devils's ability. [Stack: CD#2, CD#1]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charmbreaker Devils's ability #2 resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return an instant or sorcery card at random from your graveyard to your hand. [Stack: CD#1]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charmbreaker Devils's ability #1 resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return an instant or sorcery card at random from your graveyard to your hand. [Stack: -empty-]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whichever card was returned to your hand by #2 (step 5) will not be around when #1 resolves (step 6). You cannot obtain the same card from both (unless you cast it between step 5 and 6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T15:26:07.977" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T15:26:07.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13507" CreationDate="2013-11-15T15:10:43.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will always get two cards, because the card is only chosen at random during resolution, and not any earlier. Here's how it works out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Charmbreaker Devils&lt;/em&gt; will put its triggered ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second:&lt;/strong&gt; Before that resolves, you may activate &lt;em&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m14/en/224.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One of its rulings&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7/1/2013:&lt;/strong&gt; Strionic Resonator targets a triggered ability that has triggered and is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you copy the triggered ability currently on the stack, and put the copy on the stack above the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third:&lt;/strong&gt; You then do nothing, and let these resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fourth:&lt;/strong&gt; The copy resolves first. You return a random instant or sorcery card from your graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fifth:&lt;/strong&gt; The original resolves. You return a random instant or sorcery card from your graveyard to your hand. This cannot possibly wind up randomly choosing the card you just returned, since it's no longer in your graveyard to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-02-02T12:16:03.837" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T12:16:03.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13188" CreationDate="2013-11-15T15:36:04.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, once a creature is declared as an attacking creature, it remains so until removed from combat or when the combat phase ends.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Combat Phase is broken up into five steps, in this order: &lt;strong&gt;Beginning of Combat Step, Declare Attackers Step, Declare Blockers Step, Combat Damage Step, End of Combat Step.&lt;/strong&gt; During the Declare Attackers step, the Active Player follows rules 508.1a-508.1j, choosing attacking creatures and tapping them. After that, players have priority to cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1f The active player taps the chosen creatures. Tapping a creature when it's declared as an attacker isn't a cost; attacking simply causes creatures to become tapped. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1j Each chosen creature still controlled by the active player becomes an attacking creature. &lt;strong&gt;It remains an attacking creature until it's removed from combat or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 506.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.3. Third, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the combat step ending, there are several ways a creature can be removed from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.4. A permanent is removed from combat if it leaves the battlefield, if its controller changes, if it phases out, if an effect specifically removes it from combat, if it's a planeswalker that's being attacked and stops being a planeswalker, or if it's an attacking or blocking creature that regenerates (see rule 701.12) or stops being a creature. A creature that's removed from combat stops being an attacking, blocking, blocked, and/or unblocked creature. A planeswalker that's removed from combat stops being attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last chance to prevent a creature from attacking is during the &lt;strong&gt;Beginning of Combat&lt;/strong&gt; step, before it can be declared as an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.4a Once a creature has been declared as an attacking or blocking creature, spells or abilities that would have kept that creature from attacking or blocking don’t remove the creature from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-15T15:36:04.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13537" CreationDate="2013-11-16T00:09:03.283" Score="1" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Berserk: War of the Realms, if a creature 'may declare a magical strike' on some condition, does that apply even when it is exhausted? For example, the Elf Spellslinger 'may declare a magical strike' if an adjacent creature of the opponent becomes exhausted. Is he allowed to use that even when he himself is exhausted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6164" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2018-01-22T17:58:33.537" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T17:58:33.537" Title="May a creature declare an attack while it is exhausted?" Tags="|berserk-war-of-the-realms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2013-11-16T02:48:07.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My duplicate bridge teacher suggested a 2D response as either negative or &quot;waiting&quot; in order to see what suit(s) the opener rebid.  That might keep the responder from winning the bid and exposing the stronger hand as dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6165" LastActivityDate="2013-11-16T02:48:07.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13521" CreationDate="2013-11-18T00:08:19.130" Score="0" ViewCount="5466" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for creatures that cause loss of life when they enter the battlefield, can you recommend any? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373645&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; and would love to find more like it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastEditorUserId="6173" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T17:51:19.983" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T17:51:19.983" Title="Black creatures that cause loss of life when they enter the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2013-11-18T01:41:40.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can used the Gatherer's Advanced search to find cards. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+@%28+%5bB%5d%29&amp;amp;text=+%5b%22enters%20the%20battlefield%22%5d+%5blose%5d+%5blife%5d&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer-Black, EtB+Lose+Life&lt;/a&gt; will find you all Black cards that aren't any other color, that contain the words &quot;enters the battlefield&quot;, &quot;lose&quot;, and &quot;life&quot; in the rules text. The URL contains variables after the '?', and are separated from each other by the '&amp;amp;'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;action=advanced :  Use the advanced search instead of the basic search.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;color=+@(+[B]) : The cards color is black and no other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;text=+[%22enters%20the%20battlefield%22]+[lose]+[life] : The cards rules text includes EtB, lose, and life. Certain characters are encoded so they can appear in the URL, like  and .&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T01:41:40.617" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13105" CreationDate="2013-11-18T02:01:08.917" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly the Henchmen and the Villain are never in the same location deck. The rules book says during setup to take the Villain card and as many henchmen cards as you need to match the number of locations, and then deal one to each location deck. Either a Henchman or the Villain will be in a location, but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6174" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T02:01:08.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13520" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-18T02:02:57.703" Score="5" ViewCount="10014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say i enchant a land with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Underworld%20Connections&quot;&gt;Underworld Connections&lt;/a&gt;. Would i be able to tap said land for mana, and use the ability of Underworld Connections concurrently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5931" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T02:14:39.317" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:45:35.173" Title="Underworld Connections: Tapping the Land for mana and ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13517" CreationDate="2013-11-18T02:13:26.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, there appear to be only three black creatures that deal damage when they enter the battlefield, and for color pie reasons they're all black/red: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anathemancer&quot;&gt;Anathemancer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellhole%20Rats&quot;&gt;Hellhole Rats&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murderous%20Redcap&quot;&gt;Murderous Redcap&lt;/a&gt;.  However, if, as your example indicates, you're also after creatures that cause loss of life (which doesn't count as damage; this matters for things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curiosity&quot;&gt;Curiosity&lt;/a&gt;), you also have available:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When ~ enters the battlefield, target player/opponent loses X life.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geralf%27s%20Messenger&quot;&gt;Geralf&amp;#39;s Messenger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisitor%20Exarch&quot;&gt;Inquisitor Exarch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laquatus%27s%20Champion&quot;&gt;Laquatus&amp;#39;s Champion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maga%2C%20Traitor%20to%20Mortals&quot;&gt;Maga, Traitor to Mortals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Singe-Mind%20Ogre&quot;&gt;Singe-Mind Ogre&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Scourge&quot;&gt;Soul Scourge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When ~ enters the battlefield, target opponent loses X life and you gain X life.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bleak%20Coven%20Vampires&quot;&gt;Bleak Coven Vampires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodhunter%20Bat&quot;&gt;Bloodhunter Bat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dakmor%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Dakmor Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Council%20of%20Orzhova&quot;&gt;Ghost Council of Orzhova&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Highway%20Robber&quot;&gt;Highway Robber&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obzedat%2C%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Obzedat, Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When ~ enters the battlefield, each player/opponent loses X life.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood-Toll%20Harpy&quot;&gt;Blood-Toll Harpy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howling%20Banshee&quot;&gt;Howling Banshee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maggot%20Carrier&quot;&gt;Maggot Carrier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rathi%20Fiend&quot;&gt;Rathi Fiend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Netherborn%20Phalanx&quot;&gt;Netherborn Phalanx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;When ~ enters the battlefield, each opponent loses X life.  You gain life equal to the life lost this way.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Malakir%20Bloodwitch&quot;&gt;Malakir Bloodwitch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T02:13:26.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13520" CreationDate="2013-11-18T02:20:18.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  You can't pay two separate tap costs with a single tap, just as how in real life you can't pay for two separate $1 charges with the same dollar.  To be precise, you can't even activate the abilities at the same time; you have to activate one first and pay its cost, and then afterwards the fact that the land is tapped will prevent you from paying the cost for the other ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T02:20:18.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13520" CreationDate="2013-11-18T03:56:21.523" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping a land doesn't actually produce mana, activating its ability does. Tapping is merely the paying of the cost to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike abilities that read &quot;Whenever enchanted land is tapped&quot;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;, it's not actually tapping the land that causes Underworld Connections's effect. Tapping is merely paying part of the cost to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of activating either the abilities, you will need to tap the land, which will leave you unable to activate the other ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like in real life, just because two abilities have the same cost doesn't mean you can pay the price just once for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An example of such an ability is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/di/en/99.html&quot;&gt;Utopia Sprawl&lt;/a&gt;'s. Tapping the enchanted Forest for mana produces {G} as normal and triggers Utopia Sprawl's ability to produce a second mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T17:45:35.173" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T17:45:35.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-18T07:22:43.310" Score="6" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;The board shows two queens, a 9, 8, and 7. I'm holding a queen and a Jack. The other player is holding a queen and an Ace. Is this a split pot or does the Ace play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6175" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T19:08:31.740" Title="Is this a split pot?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2017-07-23T09:25:10.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13524" CreationDate="2013-11-18T10:59:16.403" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You each make the best 5 card hand you can. You have QQQJ9, your opponent has QQQA9 which is a higher hand, and so your opponent wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T10:59:16.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13524" CreationDate="2013-11-18T15:52:46.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You and your opponent both have &quot;trip&quot; queens. Then the side cards, or kickers, decide the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent has a side ace, and you have a side jack, both of which are higher than the nine on the board. So the ace plays. So does your jack, but aces &quot;outkick&quot; jacks. That is, you have QQQJ9, and your opponent has QQQA9 for a better hand. If your opponent's ace were a ten, you would have the better kicker and hand against QQQT9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change his ace to a six, and your jack to a five. Then the board plays, and you each have QQQ98. The fact that his six beats your five doesn't matter, because it's lower than the lowest board card (8) that plays, and this would be a split pot. The ones in the previous paragraph would not be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-11-18T19:08:31.740" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T19:08:31.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6330" CreationDate="2013-11-18T15:56:49.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would look for a bridge &quot;circle.&quot; That would be a social club where bridge is played, but is not dedicated exclusively to playing bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bridge club (that plays exclusively bridge) is one that attracts dedicated people. From the look of your question, that's &quot;too much&quot; for you needs. What you want is a location where bridge is played, but people are out for a &quot;good time,&quot; and not necessarily to play bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T15:56:49.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13520" CreationDate="2013-11-18T16:00:17.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the following rule makes this pretty clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.6. The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the words &amp;quot;basic land type,&amp;quot; it’s referring to one of these subtypes. &lt;strong&gt;A land with a basic land type has the intrinsic ability &amp;quot;(tap): Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,&amp;quot; even if the text box doesn't actually contain that text or the object has no text box.&lt;/strong&gt; For Plains, [mana symbol] is (W); for Islands, (U); for Swamps, (B); for Mountains, (R); and for Forests, (G). See rule 107.4a. Also see rule 605, &amp;quot;Mana Abilities.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, if you play Underworld Connections on a Swamp, you now have the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swamp&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Basic Land - Swamp&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Tap): Add (B) to your mana pool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Tap), Pay 1 life: Draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping is part of the cost of each ability, so you can tap the land to pay either cost, but not both at the same time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-18T16:00:17.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-18T16:46:17.507" Score="8" ViewCount="720" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are all kinds of lists out there to improve one's Scrabble play.  For instance, I have a book called Bob's Bible which helps with all kinds of anagrams and other unique groupings.  Google search has given me nothing.  I want to know is there a list out there of the most commonly played phonies? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-17T15:43:01.640" LastActivityDate="2022-01-17T15:43:01.640" Title="For Scrabble, is there a most common phonies list anywhere?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22978" CreationDate="2013-11-18T22:08:51.720" Score="6" ViewCount="1173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been thinking of getting into the Lord of the Rings LCG from Fantasy Flight Games. I realize the game has been out for a while and there are a LOT of deluxe expansions and Adventure Packs for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the release order for the Expansions and Packs and the general theme of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would probably help me in deciding what I want/need to pick up first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T13:45:06.220" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:14:49.540" Title="Releases for the Lord of the Rings LCG" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2013-11-19T16:47:02.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other answers have touched on modern boosters, so I thought I'd answer the question for the older stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In older sets (prior to Exodus), there wasn't specifically a &amp;quot;rare&amp;quot; rarity level (&amp;quot;mythic&amp;quot; is, of course, an even newer invention in MtG than rare). Cards were printed on a common sheet or an uncommon sheet, and not all cards were printed the same number of times on each sheet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, those cards' rarity is referred to by the sheet it was printed on and the number of times is was printed. For example, a C1 card was printed once on the common sheet, and U2 was printed twice on the uncommon sheet. U1 cards are generally considered the &amp;quot;rare&amp;quot; cards of their expansions. However, because these older sets were larger, a specific U1 was more rare than a specific rare today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivia #1: There is one card printed at C11 -- &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Desert&quot;&gt;Desert&lt;/a&gt;, from Arabian Nights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivia #2: In the early days, the MtG developers wanted to obfuscate how rare the different cards were. Because of this, one of the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt; cards in Alpha was a U1! A rare basic land, who would have thought?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T16:47:02.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13531" CreationDate="2013-11-19T16:48:33.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the information you are looking for can be found directly in Fantasy Flight's store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/showproducts.cfm?FullCat=248&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/showproducts.cfm?FullCat=248&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a list of all the expansions, and each expansion has a description of its theme. I'm not sure of a simple way to find the release order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T16:48:33.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13530" CreationDate="2013-11-19T17:17:42.333" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a Scrabble expert, but to me it looks like you are going about this the wrong way. Your stated goals&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I learn for sure which words sound like words but really aren't so I&#xA;  don't play them. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;I become a better challenger. Part of the game (at&#xA;  least in tournaments) is to be able to recognize when your opponent&#xA;  has played a bad word. From my experience, this is an often neglected&#xA;  part of a new Scrabble player's development.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;can &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; be achieved by learning all legal scrabble words. If you know all the legal words, anything that isn't one of those words is (obviously) an illegal word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this might sound like an insurmountable task, to me it sounds a lot more feasible than learning everything that &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; a word. The set of legal words is much smaller than the set of illegal words!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T17:17:42.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12600" CreationDate="2013-11-19T17:44:31.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;White&lt;/strong&gt; has very little ramp of its own; the effects it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have relating to mana are generally dependent on you controlling fewer lands than your opponent, and most of those put land in your hand, rather than on the field (which is not ramp). Examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Tax&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kor%20Cartographer&quot;&gt;Kor Cartographer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knight%20of%20the%20White%20Orchid&quot;&gt;Knight of the White Orchid&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Lieges&quot;&gt;Oath of Lieges&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue&lt;/strong&gt; also has very little. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreamscape%20Artist&quot;&gt;Dreamscape Artist&lt;/a&gt; is a spellshaper that knows a color-shifted version of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Harrow&quot;&gt;Harrow&lt;/a&gt;, there's the infamous &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=High%20Tide&quot;&gt;High Tide&lt;/a&gt;, and most (all?) of the &amp;quot;free mana&amp;quot; cards from Urza block are blue, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Palinchron&quot;&gt;Palinchron&lt;/a&gt;. Don't forget twiddling effects that can hit lands, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turnabout&quot;&gt;Turnabout&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; has enough ramp to spawn an archetype -- Big Mana Black! Between cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Coffers&quot;&gt;Cabal Coffers&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nirkana%20Revenant&quot;&gt;Nirkana Revenant&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Ghast&quot;&gt;Crypt Ghast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Dark%20Realms&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Dark Realms&lt;/a&gt; (ultimate), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skirge%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Skirge Familiar&lt;/a&gt;, and rituals along the lines of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, a black deck can achieve absurd amounts of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Devotion&lt;/strong&gt; If your deck is a devotion deck &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nykthos%2C%20Shrine%20to%20Nyx&quot;&gt;Nykthos, Shrine to Nyx&lt;/a&gt; is a powerful ramp card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While older black cards included many rituals, modern rituals tend to be &lt;strong&gt;Red&lt;/strong&gt;. See: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battle%20Hymn&quot;&gt;Battle Hymn&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brightstone%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Brightstone Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Desperate%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Desperate Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infernal%20Plunge&quot;&gt;Infernal Plunge&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Koth%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt; (first two abilities), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Geyser&quot;&gt;Mana Geyser&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyretic%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Pyretic Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seething%20Song&quot;&gt;Seething Song&lt;/a&gt;, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T20:11:38.227" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T20:11:38.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13512" CreationDate="2013-11-19T19:09:40.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/14027782&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; abilities can be declared even if a creature is exhausted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6164" LastActivityDate="2013-11-19T19:09:40.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13539" CreationDate="2013-11-19T21:51:11.283" Score="12" ViewCount="10088" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when a Commander is hit with an effect such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flicker&quot;&gt;Flicker&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Otherworldly%20Journey&quot;&gt;Otherworldly Journey&lt;/a&gt;, and that Commander's owner chooses to send the Commander to the Command zone instead of exile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the Commander come back to the battlefield at the end of the turn, or will it stay in the Command zone and have to be re-cast again? Does the answer change depending on whether the exiling card would bring the creature back immediately (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;), at a specific later time (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vanish%20into%20Memory&quot;&gt;Vanish into Memory&lt;/a&gt;), or an unspecified point in the future (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2021-11-30T18:26:24.823" Title="Flickering a Commander" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13538" CreationDate="2013-11-19T21:51:11.283" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Commander/EDH format, when a player's Commander/General would be either sent to Exile or to the Graveyard, that player may choose to &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt; send the Commander to the Command zone, as a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a replacement effect takes place, the original event &lt;em&gt;never happened&lt;/em&gt;. When a player returns their Commander to the Command zone instead of exiling it, you can pretend the exiling spell says something to the effect of &amp;quot;return target creature to the Command zone,&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;exile target creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question, the answer is: &amp;quot;it depends.&amp;quot; What it depends on is not, in fact, the timing of the return to the battlefield, but the specific wording of the return. In particular, you must distinguish between referring to a card in the Exile zone (&amp;quot;the exiled card&amp;quot;) and the card representing the object that left the battlefield (&amp;quot;that card,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;it,&amp;quot; etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flicker&quot;&gt;Flicker&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;return &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Momentary%20Blink&quot;&gt;Momentary Blink&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;return &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Otherworldly%20Journey&quot;&gt;Otherworldly Journey&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;return &lt;em&gt;that card&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;return &lt;em&gt;that card&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;return &lt;em&gt;the exiled card&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voyager%20Staff&quot;&gt;Voyager Staff&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;return &lt;em&gt;the exiled card&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &amp;quot;flicker&amp;quot; effect looks at &amp;quot;the exiled card,&amp;quot; it will &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; look to the Exile zone to find the card to bring back. Otherwise, the flicker will look to the first public zone that the object moved to (ie, the zone which the flicker effect moved the object to, as modified by any replacement effects), and because returning your commander to the Command zone is a replacement effect and the Command zone is a public zone, the flicker effect will track your Commander there. (Note: If your Commander changes zones before the flicker effect brings it back, the flicker will lose track and won't return your Commander to the battlefield. This is because by changing zones it has become a new object.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is thus advantageous to return your Commander to the Command zone when it's exiled by &amp;quot;that card&amp;quot;-type flickers, as it will still return to the battlefield later... and if an opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; (or similar) on the return trigger or uses something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; to end the turn in response to the trigger, your Commander will merely be stuck in the Command zone (from whence you may re-cast it, paying the Commander tax), rather than stuck in Exile (from whence there are 3 cards &lt;em&gt;in the game&lt;/em&gt; that could retrieve it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/comment/46847096#comment-46847096&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Natedogg rules on Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(Natedogg is a Net Rep for Wizards of the Coast)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragonhighlander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?p=125514&amp;amp;sid=ab4ad0b032b5d40720a5f6cf99fa4920#p125514&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sheldon rules on Mistmeadow Witch&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;(Sheldon is one of the creators of the Commander/EDH format, and for many years was a Level 5 judge)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/comment/39331326#comment-39331326&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Natedogg retracts a ruling &lt;em&gt;against&lt;/em&gt; Glimmerpoint Stag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/comment/42052661#comment-42052661&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Natedogg spells out the ruling explicitly&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T00:48:03.290" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T00:48:03.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13609" CreationDate="2013-11-20T05:13:55.223" Score="3" ViewCount="404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played my turn in Words with Friends, and notice I can make a&#xA;killer word on my next turn, unless my opponent plays too close to&#xA;that area and blocks my making that word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any online Scrabble-like games that let you say: &quot;on my next&#xA;turn, play this word, unless, of course, my opponent makes it&#xA;impossible to do so&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize there's the possibility that my opponent's play will give me&#xA;an even better word, but I'm OK with sacrificing that chance in return &#xA;for a faster and more unique mode of play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT (to answer comment): my opponent and I are on different &#xA;schedules, so the push notifications would come in the middle of my or &#xA;his night. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several hours may pass between turns, and a play-ahead option could &#xA;speed up the game by a factor of 2 or more. The speedup would come &#xA;because of the time that passes between turns, not because it takes so &#xA;long to play a word. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when I play a word, Words with Friends already gives me my next &#xA;set of tiles (it refills my tile tray to have 7 tiles), so that's not &#xA;an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user639" LastEditorDisplayName="user639" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T00:32:33.717" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T17:50:30.513" Title="Online Scrabble-like game with play-ahead feature?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13541" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13542" CreationDate="2013-11-20T06:14:29.390" Score="3" ViewCount="1485" Body="&lt;p&gt;Original versions of the white Sorcery &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breath%20of%20Life&quot;&gt;Breath of Life&lt;/a&gt; read &amp;quot;Put target creature card from your graveyard into play.&amp;quot; In later editions, they changed the text to read &amp;quot;Return target creature card from your graveyard to play.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this a functional change that retroactively modified how Breath of Life works? Can I use new versions of Breath of Life to put a discarded creature card into play, or does it have to have been on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6186" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T06:23:17.460" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T06:44:37.190" Title="Can Breath of Life Put a Discarded Creature into Play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13541" CreationDate="2013-11-20T06:28:04.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was not a functional change, you can return a creature card from your graveyard into play even if it was never in play to begin with. Though I couldn't find an exact rule describing the word &quot;return,&quot; there is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a card in your graveyard has no possible way of knowing if it used to be on the battlefield or not, so it must be treated the same whether it was or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that cards may say &quot;return target permanent to its owner's hand&quot;, and these can be used on permanents that were never in the owner's hand, such as a land that was fetched with a fetchland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T06:28:04.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13541" CreationDate="2013-11-20T06:31:02.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was not a functional change. It works on any creature in your graveyard, no matter how it got there. I believe the use of the word &amp;quot;return&amp;quot; is more about flavor than anything else; the idea is that things in the graveyard died, so putting them onto the battlefield is bringing them back, returning them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And tons and tons of cards say &amp;quot;return&amp;quot;, not just Breath of Life. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mnemonic%20Wall&quot;&gt;Mnemonic Wall&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whip%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Whip of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; from Theros. None of these cards are placing any restriction on how the card got in the graveyard. (They can't - the card doesn't even remember where it came from after it moves zones!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a side note: 7th Edition was the only printing of Breath of Life outside Starter and Portal sets. In addition to being a bit old (which can mean iffy rules text on cards sometimes), those cards were written for beginners. That means the rules text was often more explicit, and also often just kind of weird. &amp;quot;Take any one creature card from your graveyard and put that creature into play. Treat it as though you just played it from your hand.&amp;quot; was merely simplified to &amp;quot;Return target creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&amp;quot; More experienced players just don't need as much rules text to understand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T06:31:02.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13541" CreationDate="2013-11-20T06:44:37.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breath of Life will work on any creature in your graveyard, regardless of whether it was previously in play. &amp;quot;Return&amp;quot; is functionally synonymous with &amp;quot;put.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're wondering what a card actually does, it's best to start with its Oracle text. This is the most authoritative take on &amp;quot;what the card says.&amp;quot; You can look this up easily on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;, which also has helpful rulings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breath%20of%20Life&quot;&gt;Breath of Life&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Return target creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Magic, &amp;quot;returning&amp;quot; a card to the battlefield doesn't require that the card have been on the battlefield previously. As far as I can tell, this isn't explicitly spelled out in the comprehensive rules (&amp;quot;return&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;put&amp;quot; aren't treated as specially defined terms, unlike &amp;quot;tap&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;discard&amp;quot;), it's sorta just assumed. This isn't a minor technicality, either. It's the bedrock of an entire archetype known as Reanimator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you or your friends are truly skeptical, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/eventcoverage/gpmia13/welcome#8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here's an account&lt;/a&gt; of a player using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unburial%20Rites&quot;&gt;Unburial Rites&lt;/a&gt; (a card with identical wording to Breath of Life) in exactly this way during the deciding game of a major official tournament — in game 3, Mcclain puts a couple of cards into his graveyard on turn 3, then uses Unburial Rites to put a Thragtusk directly onto the battlefield on turn 4, before he has the 5 mana to cast it normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T06:44:37.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6806" CreationDate="2013-11-20T15:00:17.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would expand on Aryabhata's answer by noting a fundamental fallacy in the question: the assumption that correct play by a given system always results in the same action on a given hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many reasons - psychological, strategic, and game-theoretic - why in many situations the correct play is not constant. One of the most common answers given by good players to the question &quot;Wasn't I right to bid the game/slam?&quot; is &quot;Did you &lt;strong&gt;need&lt;/strong&gt; to force a top-bottom swing?&quot; Part of improving one's play is better reading of when to force a swing, and when to play for an average-plus, or even an average-minus. Likewise in possible preemptive or psyche situations, one should not be too predictable - the optional game-theoretic strategy is to make the action &lt;strong&gt;part of the time&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a further fallacy in the assumption that a given bidding system prescribes a single action for all bidding situations. Bidding systems are presented this way to novices and intermediates, to teach them the fundamentals. In reality, complex auctions sometimes can be approached soundly in different ways &lt;strong&gt;by players sufficiently knowledgeable both of fundamentals and the intricacies of their system&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T15:00:17.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-20T18:57:31.717" Score="6" ViewCount="860" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nightveil%20Specter&quot;&gt;Nightveil Specter&lt;/a&gt; dealt combat damage in a two-headed giant game, do I choose which player's top card to exile or do I exile both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5498" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T21:06:08.113" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T21:06:08.113" Title="In two-headed giant, does Nightveil Specter exile cards from both heads?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13547" CreationDate="2013-11-20T19:22:27.213" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only damage one player, so only one player will exile a card. You get to chose which player you damage in the Combat Damage Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;810.7a Each team’s creatures attack the other team as a group [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;810.7f As the combat damage step begins, the active team announces how each attacking creature will assign its combat damage. If an attacking creature would assign combat damage to the defending team, the active team chooses only one of the defending players for that creature to assign its combat damage to. Then the defending team announces how each blocking creature will assign its combat damage. See rule 510.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T19:22:27.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2013-11-20T19:41:01.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play Mafia live, over webcams, at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymafia.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Daily Mafia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6189" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-11-20T23:40:47.013" LastActivityDate="2013-11-20T23:40:47.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2729" CreationDate="2013-11-21T07:08:53.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since no one else mentioned it:  Mafia is, and has been, one of the top 10 &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.battle.net/sc2/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Starcraft II Arcade maps&lt;/a&gt; for several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They added a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of new features over the face-to-face game, including many that wouldn't be possible in-person.  And since SC2 is so popular, it usually only takes a minute to find a full party of 12 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game itself is $30 &lt;em&gt;(sometimes you can find it on sale for $10)&lt;/em&gt;, but you can play Mafia &lt;a href=&quot;https://us.battle.net/account/sc2/starter-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;for free&lt;/a&gt; if you play with a friend who owns the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="175" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T07:08:53.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2013-11-21T07:10:13.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Illustrator is what I design all my cards in. Its pretty simple and easy and there are TONs of tutorials and books to learn from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also plays well with all the other Adobe software if you need to do raster graphics or layout design, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its also an industry standard in the graphic design community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T07:10:13.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T07:18:10.307" Score="17" ViewCount="14990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;am&lt;/em&gt; interested in a &lt;strong&gt;commercial printing company to print my game&lt;/strong&gt;.  I need a US-company where I can print the entirety of my game and have it assembled already when shipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;GameCrafter&lt;/a&gt; seems like a good solution but its costly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Business card printing places or Playing card printing places: neither of these will work since they only allow 1 design per order and I don't want to make 30 different orders since my game won't have the same amount of every card in them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other option is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4320/what-is-the-best-way-to-print-cards-for-my-game&quot;&gt;Self producing cards of my game&lt;/a&gt; but I don't want to go this way, I prefer to pay someone to do that for me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know about a US-based commercial printing company that can print  my game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="998" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-05-24T05:43:41.780" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T05:46:05.167" Title="Where to go to self publish a game?" Tags="|game-development|components|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2023-05-25T16:02:38.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13553" CreationDate="2013-11-21T09:13:06.410" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're in touch with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cartamundi.com/en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cartemundi&lt;/a&gt; at the moment, their core business is card games but they do board games too. For us they'll be doing cards, rules, box, sourcing and packing counters and completing the boxes (wrapping and all) ready to ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do a minimum order size of 500 and they're prices get substantially better the more you print. John is extremely helpful, and has helped ensure that our game is as cheap as possible to print, while retaining maximum quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the US there's the company that print Fluxx (for the life of me I can't find their name)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or these chaps: &lt;a href=&quot;http://360manufacturingservices.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://360manufacturingservices.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-05-24T05:46:05.167" LastActivityDate="2023-05-24T05:46:05.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-21T12:50:42.947" Score="6" ViewCount="1930" Body="&lt;p&gt;On boardgamesgeek.com there is written that an average length of Thunderstone game (no expansions) is 60 minutes. But when I play it with my girlfriend we regularly play for more than 2 hours. I don't remember actually playing it for less than an hour. It is really too long and although we enjoy the game so much, we often prefer other games to Thunderstone because of the length. We also tend not to fight monsters we aren't sure we can beat. We do it only with the strongest ones so the other player don't receive so many points. So...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) How long does it take you to play one game on average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is game shorter when played with more players than 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Do you have any recommendations on speeding the game up a little?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Do you fight monsters even if you can't win the battle? How often do you go to dungeon on average?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2870" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T23:46:08.183" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T23:46:08.183" Title="Thunderstone game taking too long (2 players)" Tags="|play-time|thunderstone|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2013-11-21T18:42:38.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Strange Eon 3. There are a lot of templates for different cards (most of them for the Boardgame Arkham Horror based on the novels from H.P. Lovecraft).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgjennings.ca/eons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cgjennings.ca/eons/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6193" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T18:42:38.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13563" CreationDate="2013-11-21T20:10:31.347" Score="4" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my playgroup, there is this guy who specialased in multiplayer matches. In fact, all of his decks are super-strong, but only in multiplayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has wrath effects in &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; single one of his decks, and  counterspells/unsommon/disenchant too. He wins almost all the time by controlling the board by wiping it &lt;em&gt;almost every game&lt;/em&gt;. I tried some of my one-shot combo decks on him but he always has a counterspell or destroy-creature spell to put me back to the ground.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is becoming really annoying and I simply don't know how to handle it. I need tricks and maybe some deck ideas to avoid being controlled over and over, and having a win-condition that can stand a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not restricted to a budget as long as it is reasonable for casual. By this I mean no $1000 fetchland/dual-land manabase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; I was asked which wrath effects. Mostly -2/-2 to -4/-4 to all creatures,  destroy all creatures, damnation and the disk (which shutdown my try on a enchantment deck...). He plays mostly green, blue and black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T20:40:35.000" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T21:57:40.007" Title="Mechanic, playstyle, or even particular deck, to counter multiplayer wipe/control deck" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13555" CreationDate="2013-11-21T22:55:39.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Thunderstone, while a great game, has a bit of a design flaw in that the 'Militia' you start with are just objectively &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; bad.  It is honestly a winning strategy to spend literally your entire first 6 turns of the game doing nothing but trashing your militia and then starting up building a deck without them.  If you haven't sort of 'realized' this yet in your strategy, the game can be very slow to start and take a long time for your decks to get powered up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansions to the original Thunderstone address this to some extent by adding ways to kill them off into the monster abilities and some spell/item effects that otherwise utilize them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thunderstone Advance makes them better by reducing the XP cost to promote them to a L1 warrior, and adding an equipment to your starting deck that gives an ability when equipped to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the base game, you may consider simply starting with fewer of them in your deck to speed up the early development and be strong enough to start going to the dungeon faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) My group can finish a 4 player game in 45 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Not significantly in my experience, but I rarely play with fewer than 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Cull some of the militia out of the starting deck.  Use one of the several Apps available that generate 'semi-random' starting boards but make sure things are balanced.  This way you don't get really challenging combinations like monsters that require magic and all figher-type warriors that makes for a very slow start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) I always go to the dungeon if I have card draw effects in my hand that give me any reasonable hope of possibly defeating something.  (Not withstanding extreme cases like the Last L3 hero is on top of a hero deck and I have enough gold to get it or something...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thunderstone Advance is also a vastly improved game and highly recommended if you are willing to drop more $$$.  Your monsters and equipment/spell cards are 'compatible' and can still be used with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2013-11-21T23:05:00.877" LastActivityDate="2013-11-21T23:05:00.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13562" CreationDate="2013-11-22T05:05:28.710" Score="9" ViewCount="2944" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a game at a thrift store because it was not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It consists of 104 ivory tiles. The tiles are numbered 1 to 13, with 2 sets in red and 2 in black; and then four more sets but these are numbered 1 to 11, with 2 sets in light blue and two with the numbers in yellow.  Below each number is an indented circle.  Also, there are two other tiles with a smiling moon face on it, one face is in red the other in black, these, too, have an indented circle on them.  Included in the case that it came in were four &quot;racks&quot;.  It appears they are to hold the tiles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't play games too much but I do like them.  Does anyone have any idea what this game is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6195" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T06:21:51.640" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T16:00:28.347" Title="What is this tile-based game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13561" CreationDate="2013-11-22T06:06:20.360" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you have yourself a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rummikub&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rummikub&lt;/a&gt; set, but with the blue and yellow sets missing their 12s and 13s. The indented circles are there mainly for the benefit of distinguishing the 6 and the 9 from each other. The racks are used for resting your unplayed tiles on - played tiles are placed on the table between the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kTZRDm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A photo of Rummikub from Wikipedia&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The components of Rummikub&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Numbered tiles coming in four colours: generally red, black, blue and yellow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each colour has &lt;em&gt;two sets&lt;/em&gt; of tiles numbered from 1 to 13.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two jokers. Normally these are black and red, and represented by a smiling face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four racks, since it's a game for up to four players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, you should have 106 tiles: 104 numbered, and two jokers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, if you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have 104 tiles, you should only be missing &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; tiles, not &lt;em&gt;eight&lt;/em&gt;! Have you counted correctly? Try laying them out and checking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LhaSCm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A photo of all 106 tiles&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T06:33:42.183" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T06:33:42.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13558" CreationDate="2013-11-22T08:31:05.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few general ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The weakness of counterspell-heavy decks is dealing with all the important threats efficiently, and not tapping out prematurely. This is particularly tricky to pull off in multi-player, since controlling more than one player is much more work. On the receiving end, it might feel to you like he has a counterspell for everything, but that simply can't be the case. If the player to your left plays a couple of spells and gets countered, that makes it much more likely that you will be able to drop something safely into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One big limitation of creature removal is that it generally only works on creatures. An extreme way to screw with a powerful creature-controlling deck is to not field any creatures! Try direct damage, artifacts or enchantments instead. All of those kill spells become ineffective against your deck, and the resulting hand of dead cards can be crippling for your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An intermediate approach is to pick creatures that are exceptionally hard to kill. Your choices are many, and depend on the kind of spells your opponent uses most. Against powerful sorceries like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, you could consider creatures that revert to some other type at end of turn (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mishra%27s%20Factory&quot;&gt;Mishra&amp;#39;s Factory&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genju%20of%20the%20Realm&quot;&gt;Genju of the Realm&lt;/a&gt;), or ways to generate endless hordes of cheap tokens (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Assemble%20the%20Legion&quot;&gt;Assemble the Legion&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kjeldoran%20Outpost&quot;&gt;Kjeldoran Outpost&lt;/a&gt;), or just bounce with unbelievable annoyance (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinking%20Spirit&quot;&gt;Blinking Spirit&lt;/a&gt;). Against direct removal, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Protection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;protection&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Regeneration_%28Ability%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;regeneration&lt;/a&gt; can be extremely annoying. Or just pick creatures that either like going to the graveyard (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demigod%20of%20Revenge&quot;&gt;Demigod of Revenge&lt;/a&gt;), or can easily come back (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashen%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Ashen Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyre%20Zombie&quot;&gt;Pyre Zombie&lt;/a&gt;, any of the Phoenixes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another approach is to accept that your stuff is going to end up in the graveyard, and use that to your advantage. Returning creatures from the graveyard can be very efficient, or you can use a large graveyard to power effects like &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Threshold&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Threshold&lt;/a&gt;, or to give you access to spells that can be cast from the graveyard (e.g. anything with &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Flashback&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flashback&lt;/a&gt;).  Or make filling the graveyard your win condition (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mortal%20Combat&quot;&gt;Mortal Combat&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nefarious%20Lich&quot;&gt;Nefarious Lich&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more aggresive idea is land destruction/mana control. You probably won't win your multi-player game, but you could easily make it impossible for this particular opponent to win. In a similar vein, you could go for counterspell/control yourself, and shutdown his nastiest spells to let the other players do their thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final tactic is to make yourself an unappealing target. Don't be a threat, sit there and protect yourself, while building towards some late game win condition (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Door%20to%20Nothingness&quot;&gt;Door to Nothingness&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Test%20of%20Endurance&quot;&gt;Test of Endurance&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all, stay positive, and be creative! You have many, many pleasant options for ruining your opponent's game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T08:31:05.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13558" CreationDate="2013-11-22T09:21:16.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of specific options, there are numerous. Some examples include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thrun%2C%20the%20last%20troll&quot;&gt;Thrun, the last troll&lt;/a&gt;, with enchantments, and equipment. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Feast%20and%20Famine&quot;&gt;Sword of Feast and Famine&lt;/a&gt; would potentially be your best choice here (since he is playing blue for counterspells he probably is also relying on card advantage). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Notion%20thief&quot;&gt;Notion thief&lt;/a&gt; will potentially blow him out if used at the right time (does he ever cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=brainstorm&quot;&gt;brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;?, giving yourself 3 extra cards and making him put 2 back should limit his ability to wrath the board AND counter things)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulamog%2C%20the%20infinite%20gyre&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the infinite gyre&lt;/a&gt; would be a good choice. You can cheat him in through &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=show%20and%20tell&quot;&gt;show and tell&lt;/a&gt; or possibly an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=elvish%20piper&quot;&gt;elvish piper&lt;/a&gt;, either of which can be made uncounterable with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boseiju%2C%20who%20shelters%20all&quot;&gt;Boseiju, who shelters all&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=cavern%20of%20souls&quot;&gt;cavern of souls&lt;/a&gt; respectively. Gaea's Revenge is a hasty uncounterable creature that can put him in a bad way before he gets a chance to wrath the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, another option is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sneak%20attack&quot;&gt;Sneak attack&lt;/a&gt;, which will give you big hasty creatures that can't be dealt with by sorcery speed removal since they have already done their damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of ways to punish or defeat counterspells, examples include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xantid%20swarm&quot;&gt;Xantid swarm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=defense%20grid&quot;&gt;defense grid&lt;/a&gt;. Since most counterspells are also in blue, cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=choke&quot;&gt;choke&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tsunami&quot;&gt;Tsunami&lt;/a&gt; will also help punish this player. As has been mentioned already, Counterspells are only powerful when trading a few mana for a lot of mana, if he is countering all these cheap threats to his game plan, his resources are far more likely to be exhausted when you come to cast your larger more expensive threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the overall strategy for dealing with this kind of deck, and specific cards to consider to apply that strategy, should give you the starting point you need to make choices to defeat this opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T09:21:16.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-22T12:39:54.497" Score="3" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there somehow I can find an RSS feed of daily chess problems at different difficulties? I like chess and would like to get reminded to practice now and then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: I've found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailychesspuzzles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brian's Daily Chess Pouzzles&lt;/a&gt;, but they're all too easy, almost all of them 2-3 moves to mate or win heavy material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3225" LastEditorUserId="3225" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T12:40:28.170" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T00:26:03.940" Title="Periodical chess problems by RSS" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-22T13:53:04.027" Score="6" ViewCount="33469" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I mix soldiers from totally different armies?  I mean, can I have some, say, Necrons in among my Chaos Space Marines?  I have a couple different armies, and I'd like to combine them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6197" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T02:43:25.443" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:43:25.443" Title="Can I combine different races as a single army?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-11T14:44:15.410" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13555" CreationDate="2013-11-22T14:03:37.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 hours is a LOT of time for a game of Thunderstone&lt;/strong&gt;. Going through 20-30 monsters isnt so hard... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two possible problems. You may have &quot;mechanical&quot; problems, or have little experience with building decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Mechanical&quot; problems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you arent using your time efficiently. Some of the players in our playgroup couldnt get used to shuffling their library/&lt;strong&gt;planning their turn during other players turns&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a great way to make games shorter. Some of out players just picked up their new-drawn hand when they were supposed to make their moves, making us all wait till they make up thier mind. &lt;strong&gt;The whole point of having the draw step at the end of the turn is to give you time to think about what youve got before its your next turn&lt;/strong&gt; :) Sure, some of the other players may kill some of the monsters or make you discard cards, altering your plans, but accomodating for these changes once youve done all the math  earlier isnt such a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deckbuilding problems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game might be drawn out if you wait till you can kill a monster and your decks arent very good. Maybe that is your problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deckbuilding is a tricky process. Most people think its about adding the coolest things to your deck, but that isnt the case. &lt;strong&gt;The more cards you have in your deck, the smaller the odds you get a hand that you want.&lt;/strong&gt; If your deck has 6 torches, you may get all of them on one hand! But if your deck had only 6 good cards, you would get the perfect setting each and every turn! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So get rid of those daggers, iron rations and crappy heroes! There is a card that lets you discard crappy cards while in the village - use it! It's a must-buy! Always consider the ratio of heroes/food/equipments and spells in your deck. I know that halberd or feast is just sooo cool, but you also need someone to wield/eat it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also remember - each beaten monster adds to your deck, lowering the average gold and attack you'll get on your turn. Make sure you have a slim, strong deck before you start the serious beating of monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For our group, the game starts slowly, with a lot of buying, turning into a slaughterfest near the end. But all in all, if we all think during other people's turns, we tend to play 30-60 min per game, setup and teardown not included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T14:03:37.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13567" CreationDate="2013-11-22T14:08:52.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have an army construction chart you have to agree on with your opponent. If you want to mix armies, you would have to play high points and agree on the scenario with your opponent - see the rules for allies in the 6ed rulebook. They would allow you to field 1 HQ, 0-1 Elites. 1-2 Troops, 0-1 Fast Attack, and 0-1 Heavy Support options from the Dark Angels codex with a  Space Wolves detachment, for example. Thats because Space Wolves and Dark Angels are considered &quot;Allies of Convenience&quot;. I dont think Necrons get to be allies with Chaos too easily, bot i cant recall the exact table from the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T14:08:52.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13567" CreationDate="2013-11-22T17:25:23.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to what K.L. said, you can ally just about any army. You just have to have permission from the other player, and a good scenario to explain why certain armies would be allied (say the Eldar and the Necrons who hate each other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way to &quot;ally&quot; is to play an Apocalypse game. Those games are meant for large amounts of points and huge armies. Alliances mean a little less because you could be playing each army as an independent or together depending again on your mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and personally I think Apocalypse is what 40K is all about. I've had more fun with those huge games than with small games where you agonize over what you can and cannot field within your point values.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T17:25:23.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13598" CreationDate="2013-11-22T19:12:04.610" Score="2" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: Please see my edit to see how I am doing it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am making a simple blackjack game that only uses 1 deck and I read that Uston APC is the best one for just 1 deck. There is no doubling or splitting, it's a very simple game for a class.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.countingedge.com/uston-apc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.countingedge.com/uston-apc.html&lt;/a&gt; and a few other sources and it seems the way I implement it is keeping a running count based on this chart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2   1&#xA;3   2&#xA;4   2&#xA;5   3&#xA;6   2&#xA;7   2&#xA;8   1&#xA;9   -1&#xA;10  -3&#xA;J   -3&#xA;Q   -3&#xA;K   -3&#xA;A   0&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will call this running count &quot;running_count&quot;. I also keep track of how many ace's ive seen, which I will call &quot;ace_count&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes time to make a bet, my decision for how much to bet is based on running_count - (3 * ace_count), that is for every ace i've seen subtract 3 from running count. This new count I will call &quot;temp_count&quot;. If &quot;temp_count&quot; is 2 or higher, then bet the minimum bet multiplied by the temp_count. So if temp_count was 5 you would bet 5x minimum bet. If temp_count is anything lower than 2 then just do minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After betting has taken place, I disregard &quot;temp_count&quot; and go back to my &quot;running_count&quot; and &quot;ace_count&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how Uston APC works? is there a table on how I should play based on dealer card and my total compared to the running count? Right now I am using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Hard:&#xA;&#xA;•  totals 11 or less, he always hits. &#xA;•  totals 12, he stands if the dealer shows 4, 5, or 6; otherwise he hits.&#xA;•  totals between 13 and 16 inclusive, he stands if the dealer shows a 2 through a 6 inclusive; otherwise he hits.&#xA;•  totals 17 or greater, he always stands. &#xA;&#xA;Soft:&#xA;&#xA;•  totals 17 or less, he always hits. &#xA;•  totals 18, he stands if the dealer shows a 2, 7, or 8, otherwise he hits. &#xA;•  totals 19 or greater, he always stands. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I wasn't sure how these might change based on the running count of Uston APC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit more about the strategy, dealer stands on 17 (soft or hard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make my programming a bit more simple, because there is just 1 deck it kind of seemed silly to count aces separate from the normal counter so instead I just had it do count = count - 3 when it saw an ace. Effectively using -3 instead of 0 in the table described above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found his matrix for APC but it seems to talk about a &quot;running count&quot; and a true count. My understanding was a running count is as it seems, the count based on cards seen, and the true count is the running count divided by the number of decks used thus far. Some people even use half decks for it, so because I have just 1 deck, I decided to make my true count always running count / 2. Based on this I am now using this strategy as an exception to the one given above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;if hand value is 16 dealer upcard is TEN and running count is  &amp;gt;= 0&#xA;    stand&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 16 dealer upcard is NINE and true count is  &amp;gt;= 6&#xA;    stand&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 15 dealer upcard is TEN and true count is  &amp;gt;= 4&#xA;    stand&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 13 dealer upcard is TWO and running count is  &amp;lt; 0&#xA;    hit&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 13 dealer upcard is THREE and true count is  &amp;lt; -1&#xA;    hit&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 12 dealer upcard is TWO and true count is  &amp;gt;= 4&#xA;    stand&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 12 dealer upcard is THREE and true count is  &amp;gt;= 2&#xA;    stand&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 12 dealer upcard is FOUR and running count is  &amp;lt; 0&#xA;    hit&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 12 dealer upcard is FIVE and true count is  &amp;lt; -1&#xA;    hit&#xA;&#xA;if hand value is 12 dealer upcard is SIX and running count is  &amp;lt; 0&#xA;    hit&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to do lose money at around 5000 hands but at 50,000 hands it can turn 10,000 into 15,000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6198" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T14:02:20.467" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T14:02:20.467" Title="Counting in Blackjack using Uston APC" Tags="|blackjack|card-counting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2013-11-22T19:31:17.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thought I'd pose another POV.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The question comes down to &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Is the &lt;em&gt;knowing&lt;/em&gt; the amount of cash a player (player #1) has demand-able by a landlord (player #2)?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without going into tournament rules, my understanding is that it is not required that the cash a player has must be public knowledge.  If I erred here, ignore this answer.  Note: This greatly affects bidding strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we go on the idea that cash-on-hand is private and now set-up the &lt;em&gt;potential&lt;/em&gt; bankruptcy scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player #1 total hard assets (cash + 1/2 houses + amount available by mortgaging properties.) is $HardAssets.  (We as ethereal judges know this amount.) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player #1 owes player #2 (or the bank) $Rent.  (Everyone knows this.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In responding to the $Rent demand, it is possible that only player #1 knows $HardAssets &gt;= $Rent question's outcome.  Further, even player #1 may &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; precisely know the answer either at that moment.  If player #1 is obliged to answer this question to #2, before further play, it is akin to #2 demanding: &quot;How much cash do you have?&quot; of #1.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going on the assumption &quot;cash-on-hand is private&quot;, player #1 can proceed to, in order to raise $Rent, sell/mortgage property, Get-Out-Of-Jail, houses to the bank, make sweet-heart deals as player #1 can do on any other situation where bankruptcy is not an issue (&lt;strong&gt;because it is not known that this &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a bankruptcy issue&lt;/strong&gt;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should #1 fail to raise $Rent, player #2 has &lt;em&gt;prior&lt;/em&gt; claim and thus all deals, sales are subject to #2's permission.  This would usually result in all assets going though the rule's BANKRUPTCY instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T19:31:17.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13558" CreationDate="2013-11-22T20:21:52.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent is repeatedly dumping your board in your graveyard, treat your graveyard like a second hand. Reanimate the dead creatures (either with spells such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reanimate&quot;&gt;Reanimate&lt;/a&gt; or with abilities of the creatures themselves such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodghast&quot;&gt;Bloodghast&lt;/a&gt;). Recur other noncreature permanents with spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Open%20the%20Vaults&quot;&gt;Open the Vaults&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Replenish&quot;&gt;Replenish&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Witness&quot;&gt;Eternal Witness&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Regrowth&quot;&gt;Regrowth&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sun%20Titan&quot;&gt;Sun Titan&lt;/a&gt;, etc. When your graveyard is your hand, a board wipe isn't anywhere near as painful. (Barring &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Merciless%20Eviction&quot;&gt;Merciless Eviction&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Final%20Judgement&quot;&gt;Final Judgement&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he uses one-sided sweepers, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Martyr%27s%20Bond&quot;&gt;Martyr&amp;#39;s Bond&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Pact&quot;&gt;Grave Pact&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Butcher%20of%20Malakir&quot;&gt;Butcher of Malakir&lt;/a&gt; could also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the enchantment removal isn't too high, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vicious%20Shadows&quot;&gt;Vicious Shadows&lt;/a&gt; will punish him for killing off creatures. (You can even build a deck to sacrifice things to trigger VS proactively.) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stalking%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Stalking Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; works similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option might be to make a &amp;quot;spellslinger&amp;quot; deck. Focus on instants/sorceries rather than permanents. Counterspells can still be a problem, but at a multiplayer FFA table repeatedly trading counters 1-for-1 is a losing propsition. (Not to mention there are very few ways to countspell a win off of a Storm spell -- &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterflux&quot;&gt;Counterflux&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindbreak%20Trap&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flusterstorm&quot;&gt;Flusterstorm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trickbind&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidslime&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt;, plus &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; if the Storm goes off on his turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taxing the hell out of his spells may also work; simply &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trinisphere&quot;&gt;Trinisphere&lt;/a&gt;+&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nether%20Void&quot;&gt;Nether Void&lt;/a&gt; means you're going to pay a &lt;em&gt;minimum&lt;/em&gt; of 6 mana for every spell. (You can get around NV with uncounterable spells; try Boseiju/Cavern of Souls, as recommended in another answer.) That would be a nightmare for a deck like his, especially if you back it up with some light land destruction, keeping his mana count low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gaddock%20Teeg&quot;&gt;Gaddock Teeg&lt;/a&gt; stops a vast majority of sweepers on his own, too, as well as the best multiplayer counterspells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2013-11-22T21:57:40.007" LastActivityDate="2013-11-22T21:57:40.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-23T04:30:38.780" Score="15" ViewCount="3038" Body="&lt;p&gt;A group of grad students and I regularly meet up at conferences. Often, we spend our coffee breaks between talks playing various suggested generalisations of common pen-and-paper games to see if we can find an interesting one. This has lead to some quite interesting games in the past such as connect 4 with changing gravity, and tic-tac-toe on more general surfaces (such as a cylinder and Klein bottle). A group favourite, which was suggested a few months ago seems to be an interesting variant of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12477/is-ultimate-tic-tac-toe-solved&quot;&gt;Ultimate Tic-tac-toe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For want of a better name let us call it &lt;em&gt;Spillage-tic-tac-toe&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Spillage&lt;/em&gt; for short.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before stating the rules I shall ask my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the game &lt;strong&gt;Spillage&lt;/strong&gt; a well-known variant of Ultimate Tic-tac-toe? If it is, is there a reference to the game being solved in the literature? If it is not, can any insight into winning strategies be offered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll now attempt to give the rules of Spillage. I apologise for not including any images with the rules (which would help to illustrate certain game states) and if anyone feels like editing the question with such illustrations, you are encouraged to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spillage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players: 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board size: 9x9 - separated in to 9 smaller 3x3 'meta squares' similar to Ultimate ttt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will label the 9 smaller 3x3 meta boards in the obvious way with the numbers &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;9&lt;/strong&gt; (using bold to indicate a meta square) reading from top-left to bottom-right, and the individual 81 squares by subscripts &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt;_m to denote the m-th square in the n-th meta square. So for instance the four corner squares would be labelled &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;_1, &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt;_3, &lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt;_7, &lt;strong&gt;9&lt;/strong&gt;_9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, player O and player X alternate placing their respective symbols, O's and X's, on the board, with X going first, until a player wins or all available squares have been played in without a win (resulting in a draw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no restriction to where a player may place their O/X (this is the first major deviation from Ultimate ttt).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player creates a line of three consecutive identical symbols anywhere on the board, if the central symbol is in a meta square which has not yet been claimed, then that player claims the meta square which that central symbol lies in. Chains of more than three consecutive symbols are considered to be separate instances of three-symbol chains, each with their own central symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if no meta squares have yet been claimed, and the squares &lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt;_2, &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;_9, &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;_4 all have O's in them, then &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;_9 is the central symbol of the chain and so O claims the meta square &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; . If O later plays &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;_2, then (if &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; has not been claimed yet), &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;_4 is a central symbol and so O will claim the meta square &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LiUEG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LiUEG.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spillage tic-tac-toe&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a meta square has been claimed, it can not be claimed by the other player. A player wins, when they claim a chain of three consecutive meta squares as in the usual tic-tac-toe. So, for instance if player O later claims &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; in the above scenario before X can win, then O has won the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6199" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2017-06-10T23:57:55.523" Title="Name of this interesting variant of Tic-tac-toe?" Tags="|identify-this-game|tic-tac-toe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2013-11-23T06:47:10.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used an iron set to Cotten.  Placed on a granite counter. Pressed back, then front.  I pressed hard and straight down leaving the iron in contact for a good five seconds.  Could do three to four at a time. Wiped moisture off counter with paper towel as I went along.   Took a few cycles on the wettest tiles.  Left flat on counter over night.  The iron did not burn the paper and the paper did not stick to the iron.  Turned out great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6201" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T06:47:10.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2013-11-23T12:50:04.337" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK.  But the other day I had 21 points and bid two-no.  Partner had ZERO points with 5 hearts, bid two diamonds.  I had 2 hearts, both little; I could have made three-no just with my own hand.  But when I answered 3 hearts (forced, I'll admit, by the whole table saying &quot;You HAVE to accept the transfer&quot; when I tried 3 no-trump) I went down in flames.  Is consider this a reasonable exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6202" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-11-23T16:49:38.803" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T16:49:38.803" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-23T17:00:54.897" Score="4" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jeleva%2C%20Nephalia%27s%20Scourge&quot;&gt;Jeleva, Nephalia&amp;#39;s Scourge&lt;/a&gt; and exile a creature with flash, could I cast that creature when she attacks and triggers her ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flash is defined as follows, which makes it sound like the answer is &amp;quot;yes&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.8a Flash is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on. “Flash” means “You may play this card any time you could cast an instant.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the following rule for activated abilities makes it uncertain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.5e Activated abilities that read “Activate this ability only any time you could cast an instant” mean the player must follow the timing rules for casting an instant spell, though the ability isn’t actually an instant. The player doesn’t actually need to have an instant card that he or she could cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6204" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-24T16:59:36.680" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T17:45:02.577" Title="Can Jelava cast a creature if it has Flash?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13578" CreationDate="2013-11-23T19:25:27.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot.  Being able to be cast when an instant could be cast does not make something an instant.  The closest the rules actually come to addressing this point appears to be (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;304.5. &lt;strong&gt;If text states that a player may do something &quot;any time he or she could cast an instant,&quot; it means only that the player must have priority.&lt;/strong&gt; The player doesn't need to have an instant he or she could actually cast. Effects that would prevent that player from casting a spell or casting an instant don't affect the player's capability to perform that action (unless the action is actually casting a spell or casting an instant).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, &quot;having flash&quot; does not imply &quot;being an instant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2013-11-23T19:25:27.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-23T20:00:46.207" Score="2" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen stats on BGG which include expansion sets but couldn't find stats on just the base set. I would like to know which starting planet has the highest probability of winning, which has the second highest, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on experience, I believe Earth's Lost Colony and Alpha Centauri are above average but I'd love to see stats based on thousands of games played (or more) if available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T08:36:41.990" Title="What is the best starting planet in Race for the Galaxy (base set)" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12455" CreationDate="2013-11-24T07:13:17.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now when I have played a few dozen of games the answer is obvious. A piece is surrounded by 6 other pieces. When two bees are adjacent the 3 out of 6 surrounding spaces (one of each is the other bee) contribute to surrounding &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; of them. Because of this fact it's practically difficult (that is if your opponent's is decent) to surround your opponent bee and not surround your own at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the draw is very likely if both opponents start with a bee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T07:13:17.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13584" CreationDate="2013-11-24T15:02:14.047" Score="9" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have both the angel feather and the rabbits foot in my hand can I make a roll, and then if I fail that roll use the rabbits foot to re-roll on die and use the angel feather to call an 8 on the re-roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can but my friends say yes you can and I can't find any rule that states you can or can't either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastEditorUserId="5601" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T14:00:41.410" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T14:00:41.410" Title="Can you use the angel token in conjunction with the rabbits foot" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13583" CreationDate="2013-11-24T18:37:12.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't expect the rules to say anything about this; the card text is intended to be the rules. There's also nothing in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angel Feather reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you attempt a roll of any kind, you can call out a number from 0 to 8. Use that number instead of rolling the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, that fairly clearly implies that you choose the number &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you roll - you use the number &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt; of rolling. If you could use it after you roll, I'd expect it to say something more like &quot;After you attempt a roll of any kind, you may choose a number from 0 to 8, and use that number instead of the number you rolled.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rabbit's Foot says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once during your turn, you may reroll one die. You must keep the second roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've rolled, it's too late to use a number instead of the roll. Once you've gone pat that and rerolled a die, you're even more clearly past that point. It sounds like you're right - you can't use these things together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T02:53:40.777" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T02:53:40.777" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2013-11-24T19:35:54.417" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spindown counters are not rated for use as 20-sided dice and can't be used as such... use a random method to decide who goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6210" LastActivityDate="2013-11-24T19:35:54.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13583" CreationDate="2013-11-24T22:52:27.573" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though the rules and the FAQ don't directly address this, I'm pretty sure it is allowed based on a literal reading of the cards. Angel Feather says to use it when making a roll of any kind, and re-rolling due to Rabbit's Foot's ability seems like a clear example of a roll of any kind. Angel Feather doesn't say only when making the first roll of an attempt, it just says a roll of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T02:16:16.850" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T02:16:16.850" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16778" CreationDate="2013-11-24T23:09:31.390" Score="8" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played &quot;Kill Doctor Lucky&quot; and highly enjoy it.  A great, light, game that non-gamers quickly pick up and play easily.  In this game, players move from room to room in a mansion, trying to get Dr. Lucky out of sight of other players so they can kill him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering purchasing &quot;Save Doctor Lucky.&quot;  It looks like this game reverses the intent.  Players move from room to room in the Titanic, hoping to be in sight of another player as they save Dr. Lucky (so they can be known as a hero).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the mechanics sound similar.  I'm wondering what the overall feel of the game is.  Does it offer new and interesting strategies?  Will my family, who are veteran assassins from the first game, find it interesting?  Or is it &quot;just a skin&quot; on the old game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:59:03.460" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:59:03.460" Title="How different are &quot;Kill Doctor Lucky&quot; and &quot;Save Doctor Lucky&quot;?" Tags="|kill-doctor-lucky|save-doctor-lucky|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2013-11-25T14:08:48.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No knowledge of the area whatsoever, but a bit of quick googling turned up &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com/forum/category/daily-puzzles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, which appears to have an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com/rss/forums/daily-puzzles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RSS feed&lt;/a&gt;. Maybe that's the kind of thing you're looking for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T14:08:48.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13567" CreationDate="2013-11-25T15:54:55.270" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is perfectly legal to use Necrons with Chaos Space maines so long as you obey all the necessary allies rules.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In standard games of 40K your can field allies with your army using the Allies Matrix.  When you do this your select one army to be your primary detachment and the other one as the allied detachment.  Your primary detachment works as normal and you select your warlord from it as usual.  For the allied detachment you use a modified force organization chart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[1] HQ&#xA;[0-1] Elites&#xA;[1-2] Troops&#xA;[0-1] Fast Attack&#xA;[0-1] Heavy Support&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allied detachments work with your army with varying amounts of efficiency.  You can see the full allies matrix below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From the matrix you can see that Necrons and Chaos Marines are classified as Allies of Convienence. In this instance, it means that troop units from both detachments are scoring, but characters cannot join units from the other detachments.  Also, army abilities will treat the units from the other detachments as enemy models&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRcdZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T15:54:55.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11877" CreationDate="2013-11-25T17:11:12.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're taking over a minute to count shanten you're thinking too hard. Shanten counting can be done in seconds using your head. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Look at your hand. For every pair or incomplete sequence, count 1. For completed melds, count 2. Subtract the total from 8. Do not count tiles with overlap! &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Example:&#xA;1225dots 56bamboos 23588characters red east&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12dots  = 1&#xA;&lt;br&gt;56bamboos = 1&#xA;&lt;br&gt;23characters = 1&#xA;&lt;br&gt;88characters = 1&#xA;&lt;br&gt;total = 4&#xA;&lt;br&gt;shanten = 8 - 4 = 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6219" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T17:11:12.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13594" CreationDate="2013-11-25T18:22:14.950" Score="0" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant&lt;/a&gt; dies and is revived by something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undying%20Evil&quot;&gt;Undying Evil&lt;/a&gt;, does it repeat it's loss of life when it is revived?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you used a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=338399&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twilight's Call&lt;/a&gt; and he was revived with a bunch of other black creatures would the other revived black creatures count towards your devotion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T19:22:37.860" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T20:44:18.563" Title="If Gray Merchant dies and is revived by something like Undying Evil, does it repeat it's loss of life when it is revived?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13593" CreationDate="2013-11-25T18:56:45.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question 1. Yes, he enters the battle field and thus his ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: Yes, you use the devotion at the time the spell resolves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373645&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gray merchant of asphodel&lt;/a&gt; has this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an activated ability or triggered ability has an effect that&#xA;  depends on your devotion to a color, you count the number of mana&#xA;  symbols of that color among the mana costs of permanents you control&#xA;  as the ability resolves. The permanent with that ability will be&#xA;  counted if it’s still on the battlefield at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T20:44:18.563" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T20:44:18.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13595" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13597" CreationDate="2013-11-25T20:11:08.523" Score="0" ViewCount="2431" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you revive the creature you sacrificed with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=84590&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hell's Caretaker&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so to re-trigger &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-25T20:45:49.267" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T15:54:07.457" Title="Can you revive the creature you sacrificed with Hell's Caretaker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2013-11-25T20:32:38.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to choose a creature to 'target' at the time you activate the ability (Rule 601.2c). At this point in the activating process, you have not payed the cost to active the ability(rule 601.2g), so the creature you would sacrifice is not in the graveyard and is not a valid target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T20:32:38.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2013-11-25T20:49:57.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps to casting a spell or activating an ability are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2a) Place card or ability on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2b-d) Make choices, including targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2e) Determine total cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2f) Activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2g) Pay the previously determined cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sacrificed creature is only moved to the graveyard in step 5, but you need to pick a card in the graveyard in step 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T20:49:57.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13571" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:08:16.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above rules are good, but there are a couple of things you can do to improve your odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a total of hard 16, against a dealer's T, it is very close whether you should stand or hit. You should hit if the count is at all negative, because you will make a winning hand often enough to compensate for the times that both you and dealer would have busted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a hard 13 against a dealer upcard of 2, you should hit if the running count is -1 or lower. Dealer is a favorite to improve, and with a low running count, you need to &quot;keep up.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T21:08:16.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13602" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:16:12.557" Score="1" ViewCount="383" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Betrayal%20of%20Flesh&quot;&gt;Betrayal of Flesh&lt;/a&gt; reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose one — Destroy target creature; or return target creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Entwine—Sacrifice three lands. (Choose both if you pay the entwine cost.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast it with entwine, can I target the same creature with the first half (while it is on the battlefield) and the second half (when it is in the graveyard)? Or do I pick the target for the second half before the first half resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T21:48:49.777" Title="Can I kill and revive the same creature with Betrayal of Flesh entwined?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13601" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:17:14.253" Score="6" ViewCount="28534" Body="&lt;p&gt;If both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sanguine%20Bond&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exquisite%20Blood&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt; are in play and target player loses any life, is the game over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6173" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T05:10:05.713" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T14:21:12.917" Title="Is Sanguine Bond + Exquisite Blood a potential game ender?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13600" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:45:24.623" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either your opponent will have to lose life or you will have to gain life to start the process. Then, yes, unless someone does something to stop it, you'll enter a loop which will win you the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As hinted above, there are numerous effects that can change the outcome. If an opponent controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPlatinum%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;, if they cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAngel%27s%5d%2b%5bGrace%5d&quot;&gt;Angel&amp;#39;s Grace&lt;/a&gt;, or if you control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAbyssal%20Persecutor%5d&quot;&gt;Abyssal Persecutor&lt;/a&gt;, the game will enter into a loop of mandatory actions which will end the game in a draw. If an opponent has hexproof or shroud for some reason (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWitchbane%20Orb%5d&quot;&gt;Witchbane Orb&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrue%20Believer%5d&quot;&gt;True Believer&lt;/a&gt;), Sanguine Bond won't be able to target him or her and the loop will terminate. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoidslime%5d&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt; can end the loop (but doesn't prevent from being restarted later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T14:21:12.917" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T14:21:12.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13599" CreationDate="2013-11-25T21:48:49.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. All targets are picked as part of casting the spell. The spell resolves and places the creature in the graveyard far later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-25T21:48:49.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13604" CreationDate="2013-11-26T03:31:39.557" Score="6" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the Forager's coin bonus counted during Action Phase or Buy Phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious as to whether the Forager's &quot;+ 1 Coin per differently named Treasure in the trash&quot; is counted at the time Forager is played during the Action Phase, or whether it is counted during the Buy Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually don't have trouble intuitively figuring out what a Dominion card should do when a weird quirk comes up, but this one has me tricked because cards do exist that depend on what you do during your Action phase (i.e. +1 Coin per card discarded, or + Coin based on cards trashed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it is cool to be able to increase the value of a Forager if you use a trasher after playing it, but I like to think of Dominion cards as being able to be played from top to bottom while keeping a running total of actions and coin. But coin is often counted at start of Buy Phase anyway, so I am again unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does everyone think of this? Is it actually obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6220" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T22:36:41.297" Title="Is the Forager's coin bonus counted during Action Phase or Buy Phase?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13603" CreationDate="2013-11-26T04:14:05.317" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It gives you the coin when you play it. You just don't use it until the buy phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is really a case of &quot;do what it says on the card, in the order it says it&quot;, what you called &quot;top to bottom&quot; in your question. It's true that a lot of people tally up their coin at the start of the buy phase, but that's just because it's when they care about it, not because the coin didn't exist until then. As the original rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+$X -- the player has X number of additional coins to spend in the Buy phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're granted immediately, and available to spend later in the Buy phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if you play a Salvager and trash something costing $4 to get +$4, then play a Bridge, it doesn't retroactively make the Salvager only worth +$3. And if you play a Bank, it only counts the treasures that came before it - you don't get to wait until the end and count everything for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see hints of this elsewhere, like in the wording of duration cards. For example, Merchant Ship says &quot;Now and at the start of your next turn: +$2.&quot; It grants the coin at the start of your next turn, not on your next turn's Buy phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T05:10:00.063" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T05:10:00.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13608" CreationDate="2013-11-26T09:01:49.903" Score="3" ViewCount="42750" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oloro%2C%20Ageless%20Ascetic&quot;&gt;Oloro, Ageless Ascetic&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that functions whilst in the command zone. As a newbie to the Commander format, that leaves me unclear about something:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whilst a Commander is in their Command zone and remains there, what effect &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; they have on the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are all of a Commander's abilities active? (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gahiji%2C%20Honored%20One&quot;&gt;Gahiji, Honored One&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can they use their activated or mana abilities? (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sydri%2C%20Galvanic%20Genius&quot;&gt;Sydri, Galvanic Genius&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can they do anything else (apart from being able to be cast)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; their abilities are active and can be used, but I've been told only the ones that specifically mention being in the command zone (e.g. Oloro's ability) are active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T09:10:15.687" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T14:23:34.977" Title="In what ways does a Commander in their Command zone influence the game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13605" CreationDate="2013-11-26T09:26:08.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards in the command zone are not in the battlefield. Therefore no abilities are active, unless specified. The same applies for example for cards in your graveyard or exile zone. You also cannot activate abilities of cards in the graveyard, unless specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T09:26:08.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2013-11-26T11:58:24.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another &lt;strong&gt;UK&lt;/strong&gt; source, especially for any quantity, that I've used in the past is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.p4g.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plastics For Games Ltd&lt;/a&gt;.  (Not used them for years so I've no idea if their service is as good as it was, but their site is still active). Note they do have a minimum order of £100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T11:58:24.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13605" CreationDate="2013-11-26T14:29:11.237" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only Oloro's third ability functions in the Command Zone, and none of Gahiji or Sydri's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities of permanent cards usually only work on the battlefield, not in the Command Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is notable that characteristic-defining abilities (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=438480&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ghostfire&lt;/a&gt;'s first ability) function in all zones, and even outside of the game.&lt;sup&gt;[112.6a]&lt;/sup&gt; The rest of the exceptions are quite intuitive. For example, if an ability can only be activated in a particular zone, it can be activated in that zone.&lt;sup&gt;[112.6i]&lt;/sup&gt; And if an ability can only be triggered in a particular zone, it can trigger in that zone.&lt;sup&gt;[112.6j]&lt;/sup&gt; This exception is what permits Oloro's third ability to function in the Command Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But none of the other abilities of the three cards you mentioned meet one of the exceptions that would allow them to work in the Command Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-11-24T14:23:34.977" LastActivityDate="2018-11-24T14:23:34.977" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13540" CreationDate="2013-11-26T17:25:40.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play on any Play-by-email site, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamerz.net/pbmserv/scramble.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gamerz.net/pbmserv/scramble.html&lt;/a&gt;, then you could tell your email client to automatically respond to their move with your preplanned move. If your new move is invalid, it would just get bounced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastEditorUserId="267" LastEditDate="2013-11-26T17:50:30.513" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T17:50:30.513" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13530" CreationDate="2013-11-26T17:28:18.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a novice scrabble player, in my experience the most common &quot;phonies&quot; are real variants of real words that are simply not recognized by various scrabble dictionaries. This includes adding -s to many obscure nouns, or adding -er/-or or -ing to less common verbs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T17:28:18.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13553" CreationDate="2013-11-26T17:35:11.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drivethrucards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.drivethrucards.com/&lt;/a&gt; sells card games as print-on-demand physical card decks (in addition to print-at-home PDFs). No up front publishing investment, nothing gets printed until your players place an order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I used to work for this company)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T17:35:11.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13193" CreationDate="2013-11-26T17:57:38.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This meant that the last few players could always tell their story and&#xA;  weave in just enough story cards to win the quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rule about the active player being allowed to throw in one (and&#xA;  only one) last story card to wrap up the story likewise seemed&#xA;  useless, since one story card would never be able to impact the&#xA;  results anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to contradict yourself here. If one side has used &quot;just enough&quot; story cards to win, then a single final card should be able to tip the balance in favor of the active player's faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, then the other faction has to account for this, and use &quot;just enough plus a little more&quot;, to the point that the active player's likely plays would be balanced out, on average. Then, assuming everyone plays optimally, the deciding factor is the random selection of cards, and you are back to it being purely a randomly decided storytelling game, as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T17:57:38.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13603" CreationDate="2013-11-26T22:36:41.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coin is evaluated when it says it is, just after you finish trashing a treasure per the previous sentence.  It would say &quot;in the Buy phase, +coin for each differently named treasure in the trash&quot; if it was meant to be evaluated then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;cards do exist that depend on what you do during your Action phase&#xA;  (i.e. +1 Coin per card discarded, or + Coin based on cards trashed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What cards are you referring to?  Secret Chamber and Vault are evaluated as soon as you do the discards that the previous sentence lets you do. Salvager gives you the +coin as soon as the trash happens, as part of that card's text text.  You don't wait and see what cards you trash later in the turn, and get more coins for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2013-11-26T22:36:41.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13630" CreationDate="2013-11-27T13:31:40.367" Score="7" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for the mermaids to create a new town with their special ability when they have the bonus +1 shipping card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T16:56:04.150" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T21:56:08.507" Title="Can the Mermaids create towns with +1 shipping bonus?" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13615" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-27T13:42:18.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Through the Ages : A Story of Civilization; is a civilization building game. Each player attempts to build the best civilization though careful resource management, discovering new technologies, electing the right leaders, building wonders and maintaining a strong military. Weakness in any area can be exploited by your opponents. The game takes place throughout the ages beginning in the age of antiquity and ending in the modern age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the primary mechanism in TTA is card drafting. Technologies, wonders, and leaders come into play and become easier to draft the longer they are in play. In order to use a technology you will need enough science to discover it, enough food to create a population to man it and enough resources (ore) to build the building to use it. While balancing the resources needed to advance your technology you also need to build a military. Military is built in the same way as civilian buildings. Players that have a weak military will be preyed upon by other players. There is no map in the game you cannot lose territory but players with higher military will steal resources, science, kill leader, take population or culture. It is very difficult to win with a large military but it is very easy to lose because of a weak one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Victory is achieved by the player whose nation has the most culture at the end of the modern age.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastEditorUserId="6225" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T15:04:20.057" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T15:04:20.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13616" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-27T13:42:18.910" Score="0" Body="Through the ages is a civilization building game. Each player attempts to build the best civilization though careful resource management, discovering new technologies, electing the right leaders, building wonders and maintaining a strong military. Weakness in any area can be exploited by your opponents. It can be played with 2 to 4 players." OwnerUserId="6225" LastEditorUserId="6225" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T15:04:04.557" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T15:04:04.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13620" CreationDate="2013-11-27T14:27:43.007" Score="5" ViewCount="916" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghor-Clan%20Rampager&quot;&gt;Ghor-Clan Rampager&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and I fuse &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armed%2FDangerous&quot;&gt;Armed/Dangerous&lt;/a&gt; on it. It is going to be a 5/5 with trample and double strike, and all of my opponents creatures are going to be forced to block it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning-Tree%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Burning-Tree Emissary&lt;/a&gt; (2/2) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skarrg%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Skarrg Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; (2/2), which are going to block my Rampager, will the resulting damage from each combat reduce my opponent's life total? In other words: my Rampager deals 5 damage on the Emissary, which dies, and yet my opponent loses 3 life due to the trample and then another 5 due to the second strike? And then, the same thing against the Guildmage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's correct, my opponent would lose 3 + 5 + 3 + 5 = 16 life, Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6228" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T15:27:44.007" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T15:27:44.007" Title="How does Armed // Dangerous interact with trample?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13617" CreationDate="2013-11-27T14:49:04.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Rampager engages in combat with both blocking creatures at the same time, it will still only do 10 damage in total. You have to assign the first 4 damage to your opponent's creatures, and 1 trample damage can be assigned to the opponent from the first strike damage phase, then you can assign the full 5 damage from the normal damage phase to your opponent to do 6 damage in total to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T16:53:52.187" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T16:53:52.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13617" CreationDate="2013-11-27T14:49:47.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When  your 5/5 doublestrike trample is blocked, you have 5 dmg to distribute amongst the defenders in the first strike part of doublestrike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You deal 2 dmg to the Emissary, 2 to the guildmage. Thats assigning enough dmg to kill those creatures. You have 1 dmg left that is dealt to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the normal part of the double strike. There are no defenders, so you deal 5dmg to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In total, you dealt 10 (twice 5) damage, killing his creatures and dealing a total of 6 damage to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5223" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T21:43:40.967" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T21:43:40.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13617" CreationDate="2013-11-27T14:54:14.897" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately your understanding is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 5/5 Ghor-Clan Rampager with trample and double strike will be declared as an attacker, then all creatures able to block it must do so. Your opponent will declare their 2 creatures as blockers, and you will subsequently choose the order in which your ghor-clan rampager will deal its damage to those blocking creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the first strike damage phase will occur. Your Ghor-Clan Rampager will assign it's 5 damage to the blockers in the order you chose earlier. First it must assign lethal damage to the first creature. In this case they are both 2 toughness, so 2 damage is &quot;lethal&quot; damage. Once lethal damage has been assigned to the first creature in the damage assignment order, you move onto the next creature with your remaining damage (3). Again assigning 2 lethal damage. At this point your creature has 1 damage left to assign, having assigned lethal damage to all its blockers. This is where trample occurs, and in the first strike step the creature deals 1 damage to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Subsequently, these creatures die and things move on to the regular combat damage step, at this point you have 5 damage to assign, a creature without trample at this point (having killed one or more blockers in the first strike damage phase) would have nothing to assign damage to, as creatures without trample can only assign damage to the creatures that are blocking them. As your Ghor-Clan Rampager has trample, the full 5 damage from this damage phase tramples over the now dead blockers onto your opponent. This gives you a total of 6 damage trampled onto your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T14:54:14.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12183" CreationDate="2013-11-27T16:07:11.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your question was the first sentence &quot;You make him stay at original place&quot;. So for that entire turn, the figure cant move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6229" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-11-27T16:39:02.210" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T16:39:02.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13578" CreationDate="2013-11-27T17:45:02.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pertinent words are &lt;code&gt;instant and sorcery&lt;/code&gt; since they are used directly in front of the word &lt;code&gt;card&lt;/code&gt;, they are descriptions for the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2a If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes the word “card” and the &#xA;  name of a zone, it means a card matching that description in the stated zone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in this case we also need 607.2a, since it is a linked ability, but I will skip over that part since it doesn't seem to be questioned here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have a description of some kind for a card in a zone. The description's typically are assumed to look at the characteristics of a card unless they describe a non-characteristic (for instance &lt;code&gt;owned by you&lt;/code&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.3. An object’s characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, &lt;strong&gt;card type&lt;/strong&gt;, subtype, &#xA;  supertype, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects &#xA;  can have some or all of these characteristics. Any other information about an object isn’t a &#xA;  characteristic. For example, characteristics don’t include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell’s &#xA;  target, an object’s owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine, since card type include instant and sorcery, that is what is being listed by the card. The exact card type in the line of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-11-27T17:45:02.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13626" CreationDate="2013-11-28T03:00:06.893" Score="9" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the basic game of Race for the Galaxy (no expansions), what happens during the consume phase if none of your cards give you any consume powers? Do those goods get consumed anyway without giving you VP's? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6233" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T04:15:58.760" Title="What Happens During the Consume Phase In Race for the Galaxy If you have no consume powers?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13625" CreationDate="2013-11-28T04:15:58.760" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the goods remain.&lt;/strong&gt; Goods are only discarded if they are used to invoke a Consume power (or Traded). If you do not have enough Consume powers to use all your goods (or none at all), the goods remain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, although you may not decline to invoke a Consume power, you get to choose what order your Consume powers are invoked in. This may allow you to avoid invoking certain powers by leaving the &quot;wrong&quot; goods left over. For instance, consider this situation: you have a Blue good, a Green good, a Consume power that consumes a Blue good for 1 VP, and a Consume power that consumes any good for 1 VP. If you wanted to, you could activate the first power using the Blue good and the second power using the Green good, and gain 2 VP. However, you could also choose to activate the second power using the Blue good. That leaves you with 1 VP, no remaining powers that can be used, and a Green good left over. As the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=273&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; puts it (p. 6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Consumption is mandatory. However, consume powers can be invoked in &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; desired order, even if this results in some unconsumed goods left over that could have been consumed with a different order (due to their &lt;em&gt;kinds&lt;/em&gt; not matching the player’s remaining unused consume powers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T04:15:58.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13635" CreationDate="2013-11-28T14:05:46.963" Score="3" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;strong&gt;Chez Geek&lt;/strong&gt; cafe cards have a cost of 1 but a bonus that reads &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a Café card is in play, there is no cost to play further Café cards (though it still takes free time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this bonus apply to all roommates in the game or only the person who played it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5968" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T06:23:38.000" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T06:36:15.890" Title="Does a cafe card bonus apply to all players?" Tags="|chez-geek|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13628" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-28T14:24:56.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chez Geek is a card game published by Steve Jackson Games where players compete to see who can be the biggest slacker of them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5968" LastEditorUserId="5968" LastEditDate="2013-11-28T15:43:58.630" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T15:43:58.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13629" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-28T14:24:56.773" Score="0" Body="Chez Geek is a game where players compete against each other to become the greatest slacker of them all. Depending on the job they are at, they get some money and time units to buy cool stuff and invite cool people to their houses to do fun activities. But beware: you competitors might want to push through your door uncool people and also ruin your stuff, free time and even your job!" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T08:24:12.397" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T08:24:12.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13614" CreationDate="2013-11-28T17:06:48.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shipping, whether regular shipping or the temporary shipping bonus, would not have an impact on the mermaid towns. Even with shipping, towns cannot be founded across river; it only counts direct adjacency. So yes, even if they have a shipping bonus, the mermaids could found a town by placing the town marker on the river space that connects 2 half-towns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-11-28T21:56:08.507" LastActivityDate="2013-11-28T21:56:08.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13633" CreationDate="2013-11-29T02:33:52.663" Score="7" ViewCount="3004" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Canopy%20Cover&quot;&gt;Canopy Cover&lt;/a&gt; is an Aura enchantment that includes this effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds the same as Hexproof's definition in the glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This permanent can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the difference between Canopy Cover and a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alpha%20Authority&quot;&gt;Alpha Authority&lt;/a&gt;, which just says &amp;quot;Enchanted creature has hexproof&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does Canopy Cover spell it out like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T09:23:06.417" Title="What is the difference between Hexproof and a card like Canopy Cover?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13632" CreationDate="2013-11-29T02:33:52.663" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects are different because of what &lt;strong&gt;you/your&lt;/strong&gt; refers to: it refers to an object's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Canopy Cover&lt;/em&gt;'s effect is radically different from an effect that says &lt;em&gt;&quot;Enchanted creature has hexproof&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, but the difference only becomes important when you use it on a creature an opponent controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's suppose you're a Green player facing a Blue player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Enchanting your opponent's creature with Hexproof means &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; can't target it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so means the creature now has a static ability that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This permanent can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&quot;your&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; here refers to that creature's controller - Blue player - so now Blue player's opponents can't target that creature with spells or abilities. That's you, Green player. &lt;em&gt;You&lt;/em&gt; now cannot target that creature with spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Enchanting your opponent's creature with Canopy Cover means &lt;em&gt;they&lt;/em&gt; can't target it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing so means the &lt;em&gt;enchantment&lt;/em&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are the enchantment's controller, the &lt;strong&gt;&quot;your&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; in this case refers to &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, the Green player. So &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; opponents can't target that creature with spells or abilities - that's the Blue player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T02:33:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13634" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-29T05:23:57.087" Score="4" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt; is a Permanent Evolution that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you attack Tokyo, deal 1 damage to all other Monsters not in Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mecha Blast&lt;/strong&gt; is a Temporary Evolution that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard this Evolution to deal 2 extra damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Claws of Steel&lt;/strong&gt; is a Permanent Evolution that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deal one extra damage on a turn in which you dealt 3 or more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with some poorly worded terms, &lt;strong&gt;Damage&lt;/strong&gt; means: Lose [Heart]. It is unclear if Claws of Steel could be used in a 4 player game when Meka Dragon is in Tokyo and rolls a single [Claw] (since you are dealing 1 damage to 3 Monsters), or if it requires dealing 3 damage to a single source. I believe the correct answer is the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you reveal all three of these Evolutions during a turn where you attack Tokyo with a single [Claw], and if you do, what is the result?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Example: Do you deal 1 damage to Tokyo and with &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt; 1 damage to all other Monsters, discard &lt;strong&gt;Mecha Blast&lt;/strong&gt; to deal 2 more damage to Tokyo and all other Monsters, and &lt;strong&gt;Claws of Steel&lt;/strong&gt; makes all Monsters take an additional 1 damage. &lt;strong&gt;Final Result:&lt;/strong&gt; 4 damage to all other Monsters, or does the additional 2 damage from &lt;strong&gt;Mecha Blast&lt;/strong&gt; not hit the Monsters outside of Tokyo?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T14:03:11.963" Title="Do Evolutions combine, for example Breath of Doom, Mecha Blast, and Claws of Steel?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo-power-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13627" CreationDate="2013-11-29T06:24:51.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have always played it so that the Café bonus applied to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find no direct rule citation on this however if they were meant to only apply to the person who played the card it would have specifically said, &quot;While a Café card is in your room&quot; much like many other cards do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T06:36:15.890" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T06:36:15.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13640" CreationDate="2013-11-29T12:31:44.283" Score="8" ViewCount="1257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of Pandemic and I remember having played a game about mountain climbing where the goal was to as a team climb the mountain and get back down safely but there must be more of these games where one play as a team rather than against each other. Where can I find a good list of such games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6238" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T01:30:27.093" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T01:30:27.093" Title="Where can I find a list of cooperative &quot;beat the game&quot; games?" Tags="|recommendations|cooperation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-04-24T21:35:56.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13636" CreationDate="2013-11-29T13:17:46.727" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/&lt;/a&gt; and play with the advanced search feature. You'll find everything you need. It probably will be a better source of knowledge than your local game store, as BGG is not limited to what it has on the shelves and does not try to sell you something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(btw,  the game you played was most probably K2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2023/co-operative-play&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek for coop games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="6225" LastEditDate="2013-11-29T15:33:23.390" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T15:33:23.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6708" CreationDate="2013-11-29T22:22:32.580" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can check the boardgamegeek.com marketplace, auctions or auction forum periodically. that would be your best bet.  I actually have a copy that I am going to list on the auction forum some time in the next few weeks (just depends on when I get everything listed and ready to go). I am hippyhillary on the geek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6240" LastActivityDate="2013-11-29T22:22:32.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2013-11-29T23:58:10.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bite the plastic clip near the base. The clip will have a tighter hold on the character card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had the same problem and this method fixed all our plastic clips. No additional materials were required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1907" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T10:21:02.007" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T10:21:02.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13636" CreationDate="2013-11-30T04:54:20.153" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;BoardGameGeek's &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/advsearch/boardgame&quot;&gt;advanced search&lt;/a&gt; can be used to find a large list of co-op games. You can then sort or filter this list in several helpful ways. This form is a little bit daunting, but powerful. From the &quot;Board Game Mechanic&quot; list, select &quot;Co-operative play&quot;. You will probably also want to check the &quot;Filter Expansions&quot; box and, if you are interested in widely available games, a minimum rating and minimum number of user ratings such as 200. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;advsearch=1&amp;amp;objecttype=boardgame&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;include%5Bdesignerid%5D=&amp;amp;geekitemname=&amp;amp;include%5Bpublisherid%5D=&amp;amp;geekitemname=&amp;amp;range%5Byearpublished%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Byearpublished%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bminage%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgrating%5D%5Bmin%5D=6&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgrating%5D%5Bmax%5D=10&amp;amp;range%5Bnumvoters%5D%5Bmin%5D=200&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgweight%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgweight%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bnumweights%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;nopropertyids%5B%5D=1042&amp;amp;range%5Bminplayers%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bmaxplayers%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;playerrangetype=normal&amp;amp;range%5Bplayingtime%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;propertyids%5B%5D=2023&amp;amp;B1=Submit&quot;&gt;Here is a direct link which will perform that query for you.&lt;/a&gt;) You might want to sort the results by Geek Rating, which penalizes games that have fewer ratings, or by Average Rating, which does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T04:54:20.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13642" CreationDate="2013-11-30T14:09:27.100" Score="4" ViewCount="3169" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules we've guessed so far are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each move is a peg jumping over another peg in its immediate proximity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The peg that gets jumped over is removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is to clear as many pegs as possible. Ideally, leaving just one peg at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a board before before first play-&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V7wpf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown board game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And where does the empty hole start out at? Ive been playing with it at the bottom but it doesn't seem right, because every game can be the same, no?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6241" LastEditorUserId="267" LastEditDate="2013-12-01T15:43:46.603" LastActivityDate="2013-12-01T15:43:46.603" Title="What is this game with pegs in holes, jumping and capturing each other?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13641" CreationDate="2013-11-30T14:35:19.080" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peg_solitaire&quot;&gt;Peg Solitaire&lt;/a&gt;, also simply known as 'Solitaire'. The empty hole is usually located in the center of the board, but for variations and different shaped boards this is not always true. This size board makes it relatively easy to simply memorize a winning series of moves, but for larger boards a player may never find that series and will spend more time exploring possible games even from a single starting position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T14:35:19.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13641" CreationDate="2013-11-30T15:59:00.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 4 distinct starting positions for the initial hole, considering symmetry: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;vertex,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;centre, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;side-midpoint, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;side-other (for lack of a more descriptive term)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to find solutions for all four starting configurations. You will encounter some similarities between the four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T15:59:00.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13672" CreationDate="2013-11-30T17:30:13.630" Score="7" ViewCount="1877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1339/dungeon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dungeon!&lt;/a&gt;. Sometimes when treasures are consumed by traps, there are no treasure cards but there are rooms with monsters(not yet revealed). How does that work? Does that mean there are some rooms where there are monsters but no treasure up for grabs?(That sounds a bit broken then :P )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, here are the texts from the traps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Slide trap&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Gain 1 Treasure and move to any chamber on Level 4&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cage trap&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Gain 1 treasure and Roll a die. 1-3: Lose 1 turn, 4-6: Lose 2 turns&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This now goes further to my other question posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13652/retreat-in-case-of-slide-trap-in-dungeon&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a forum to post rules errata for the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T06:09:22.333" Title="Less treasure cards in Dungeon! board game" Tags="|dungeon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13645" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-11-30T18:57:09.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dungeon! is a fast-paced game where you and your friends can decide which way to go in the hunt for bigger and better treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will you stick to level 1 and clear out the Goblins and Kobolds? Or will you delve deep into level 6 and set your sights on the Purple Worm or the Red Dragon? Along the way, you’ll have to face off against such iconic monsters as the Black Pudding, the Drow, and even the Owlbear!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T18:57:09.880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T18:57:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13646" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-11-30T18:57:09.880" Score="0" Body="Dungeon! is a board game by Wizards of the Coast inspired by Dungeons &amp; Dragons" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-11-30T18:57:09.880" LastActivityDate="2013-11-30T18:57:09.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13647" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-11-30T20:31:57.720" Score="2" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to print regular playing cards, with backs that I designed. Does anyone know where I could print a deck of cards for a good price with good quality cards? I only want about 50 to 100 decks to start with. Zazzle costs a bit too much for me ($20 a deck), and Bicycle doesn't give a set price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6243" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-12-03T05:43:59.510" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T03:02:09.307" Title="Where can I get a short run of standard cards with custom backs?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2013-12-01T15:41:11.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.drivethrucards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.drivethrucards.com/&lt;/a&gt; does on-demand card printing, for card games and also arbitrary decks of cards and tiles that might be used in other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(disclosure: I used to work for this company)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-12-03T01:24:28.330" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T01:24:28.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13890" CreationDate="2013-12-02T03:43:01.280" Score="1" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1339/dungeon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dungeon!&lt;/a&gt; there is &lt;strong&gt;Slide Trap&lt;/strong&gt; in Level 3 which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gain 1 Treasure and move to any chamber on Level 4&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when I encounter a monster in the level 4 chamber, attack it insufficiently, the monster hits back, and I have to retreat a step? Where do I retreat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T03:58:11.950" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T03:58:11.950" Title="Retreat in case of slide trap in Dungeon!" Tags="|mechanics|dungeon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T16:58:29.330" Score="4" ViewCount="5292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am at -10 life from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ad%20Nauseam&quot;&gt;Ad Nauseam&lt;/a&gt; but I don't lose due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Unlife&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt;. If my opponent attacks me with all their creatures (for infect-&amp;gt; poison counters) and I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angel's Grace&lt;/a&gt; what happens to my life total? I know it doesn't go back to 1 but do I get poison counters or just one poison or does nothing happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my health is already below zero and I don't have Phyrexian Unlife if my opponent keeps attacking on the turn I'm still using Angel Grace what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6253" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T17:16:56.000" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T22:34:04.390" Title="Angel's Grace and Phyrexian Unlife" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2013-12-02T17:24:31.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first scenario,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent's creatures deal damage to you in the form of poison counters.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 702.89b]&lt;/sup&gt; This damage does not reduce your life total, so it's not affected by Angel's Grace. Even if you now have ten or more poison counters, you do not lose at this time because of Angel's Grace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually, your turn ends and the continuous effect Angel's Grace's created to keep you alive ends. Specifically, this happens in the Cleanup Step&lt;sup&gt;[CR 514.2]&lt;/sup&gt;. At this point, state-based actions are checked and you lose if you have ten or more poison counters.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 514.3, 704.5c]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.89b Damage dealt to a player by a source with infect doesn’t cause that player to lose life. Rather, it causes the player to get that many poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second scenario,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone's life totals are checked whenever someone is about to get priority (when someone gets to cast a spell or activate an ability except when instructed by an effect)&lt;sup&gt;[CR 116.5]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your health is below zero, and you don't have Phyrexian Unlife to keep you alive, then you've already lost. As soon as Ad Nauseam finished resolving, before anyone could have done anything else and before the attackers could deal their damage, state-based actions were performed&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2h]&lt;/sup&gt; and you lost the game for having having non-positive life.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 704.5a]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.5. Each time a player would get priority, the game first performs all applicable state-based actions as a single event [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that Angel's Grace cannot raise your life total. As stated in a ruling, &amp;quot;If your life total goes below 1, being dealt damage will not increase it back up to 1.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T16:51:42.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2013-12-02T17:24:55.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won't answer your second question since it's essentially the same question as the question I linked in my comment above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the answer to your first question, the second ability of Phyrexian Unlife is a replacement effect. Instead of taking damage, you gain poison counters. Angel's Grace only checks if damage would reduce your life total to less than one, but it doesn't replace the damage, nor does it care about poison counters. Therefore you would still gain your poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Angel's Grace prevents you from losing the game. So what would happen is that you would keep the poison counters. If you received ten or more of them, unless you had some way to rid yourself of the poison counters, at the beginning of the next player's upkeep, when you receive priority, comprehensive rule 104.3d kicks in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3d If a player has ten or more poison counters, he or she loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-02T20:36:05.243" LastActivityDate="2013-12-02T20:36:05.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13632" CreationDate="2013-12-02T17:53:00.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;doppelgreener did a good job of explaining the impact the difference has on the game. However, that doesn't explain &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; the Oracle text of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCanopy%20Cover%5d&quot;&gt;Canopy Cover&lt;/a&gt; continues to spell out the effect in full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically: &lt;strong&gt;Canopy Cover does not grant any abilities to the enchanted creature.&lt;/strong&gt; There is no means by which you can word this effect such that the keyword &quot;Hexproof&quot; is included &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; no ability is granted to the creature. Thus, Canopy Cover spells out the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the results spelled out by doppelgreener, consider interactions with cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMuraganda%20Petroglyphs%5d&quot;&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Spoiling%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt;. Canopy Cover does not prevent the buff from Petroglyphs, while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAlpha%20Authority%5d&quot;&gt;Alpha Authority&lt;/a&gt; does. Sudden Spoiling does not remove the Hexproof-esque effect of Canopy Cover, but it would remove the Hexprof granted by Alpha authority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-02-27T09:23:06.417" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T09:23:06.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-02T18:24:47.587" Score="4" ViewCount="1243" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group and I have recently acquired the Battle Star Galactica Daybreak expansion. We also have all the previous expansions and base game. To give context, the previous expansions made it very difficult for a single cylon to win the game on there own. With Daybreak a single cylon can easily bring the human players to their knees, with the strategy of always drawing treachery cards and playing them appropriately in the skill checks and reacting to the current situation on their turn (Human Fleet, Cylon Fleet, Caprica).  For instance, giving out mutiny cards as best you can to brig human players, and sending players to the sick bay when they are on Demetrius' missions so they also get a crisis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there a valid strategy for playing humans besides get to Demetrius ASAP and get through the missions?  Also, is there a strategy for playing the humans without Demetrius (i.e. Kobol or Ionian Nebula)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6000" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T20:18:02.970" Title="What are some Battlestar Galactica Daybreak Human Strategies?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13659" CreationDate="2013-12-03T07:19:32.490" Score="5" ViewCount="3886" Body="&lt;p&gt;In other words, if the two cities are connected, is that sufficient for gaining the points on the destination ticket, or does the holder of the destination ticket have to connect the two cities using his own trains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read over the official rules but it does not seem to be explicit about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate a citation for answers if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6257" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T20:57:44.477" Title="Do the destination tickets in Ticket To Ride require that the player completes the routes, or only that the tickets are completed?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13658" CreationDate="2013-12-03T10:51:49.037" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holder of the destination card has to connect the two cities with their own trains. The route can be as roundabout as you like though, as long as they are connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Ticket to Ride: Europe version, you can build stations which then let you count another player's route as if it was your own for the purposes of scoring destination cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-12-03T10:51:49.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13658" CreationDate="2013-12-03T17:15:13.400" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The holder of the destination cards must connect the cities.  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_2015_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are explicit about this (emphasis mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Destination Ticket includes the name of two cities on the map and a Point Value.  If &lt;strong&gt;a player&lt;/strong&gt; successfully completes a series of routes that connect&#xA;  the two cities, &lt;strong&gt;they&lt;/strong&gt; will add the amount of points indicated on the Destination Ticket to their point totals at the end of the game. If they do not&#xA;  successfully connect the two cities, &lt;strong&gt;they&lt;/strong&gt; deduct the amount of points indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players&lt;/strong&gt; should then reveal all their Destination Tickets and add (or subtract) the value of their Destination Tickets still in hand, based on whether&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;they&lt;/strong&gt; successfully (or not) connected those cities together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At no point is there any suggestion that players score points if any other player completes the route(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2018-12-28T20:57:44.477" LastActivityDate="2018-12-28T20:57:44.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13661" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13662" CreationDate="2013-12-03T23:52:31.650" Score="9" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;The gaming group that introduced me to &lt;em&gt;Dominion&lt;/em&gt; plays with a houserule known as &lt;em&gt;Phantom Provinces&lt;/em&gt;, explained as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the &lt;em&gt;normal condition for ending the game&lt;/em&gt; is reached (including running out of provinces), the &lt;em&gt;game continues until all players have had an equal number of turns&lt;/em&gt; instead of ending immediately.  During this time, there are an effectively &lt;em&gt;infinite number of provinces&lt;/em&gt; to buy (even if the pile ran out as said condition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is designed to counter a perceived advantage with going first and disadvantage with going last.  Is there &lt;strong&gt;statistical evidence&lt;/strong&gt; for or against the &lt;strong&gt;validity&lt;/strong&gt; of this rule?  Is this rule in &lt;strong&gt;popular use&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:49:22.640" Title="Phantom Province Houserule" Tags="|dominion|house-rules|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13661" CreationDate="2013-12-04T14:18:45.637" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is certainty a first-player advantage in Dominion. However, that particular house rule gives a possibly even more significant second-player advantage. The reason for this is that the first player can never safely end the game. He has very little control over how the game ends. The best he can do is to build up a significant lead, then end the game and hope. Meanwhile, the second player (assuming a 2 player game) can end the game exactly when he needs to in order to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot of discussion about this exact rule here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=9791.0&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=9791.0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is a well-written article explaining the reasons behind the first-player advantage:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=1467.0&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=1467.0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are definitely statistics to support this advantage. &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/&quot;&gt;http://councilroom.com/&lt;/a&gt; contains statistics from thousands of online Dominion games with top players. You can pick almost any good player at random and see that their win percentage as first player is much higher than their win percentage as second player. It appears that the search functionality on councilroom is down at the moment, but here is a link to statistics gathered from there: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=54.msg723#msg723&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=54.msg723#msg723&lt;/a&gt;. Finally, there is a lot of discussion on the statistics of first-player advantage here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=946.0&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=946.0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This advantage was designed to be countered by playing multiple games, and having the winner go last in the next game, which is actually written in the original instruction book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-12-04T14:25:18.247" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T14:25:18.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-04T16:55:45.613" Score="5" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boys and I still enjoy &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/93538/battleship-galaxies-the-saturn-offensive-game-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Battleship Galaxies&lt;/a&gt; in spite (and because of!) some rather bizarre abilities and the strange &quot;activate only one ship&quot; mechanic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My younger son was setting up the board for a recent game and was a bit too overly enthusiastic when he disconnected the vertical piece of the base from one of the ship miniatures (it's a ball and socket press-fit attachment).  That snapped the tip off at a point that almost certainly doesn't have enough surface area to glue back together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a source for replacement parts?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this specific situation, what we really need is hex bases of various configurations (1, 2 and 7 hex), with a vertical piece to hold up the ship mini and holes for the shield and hull pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T01:16:59.533" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T08:01:43.390" Title="Where can I purchase replacement parts for Battleship Galaxies?" Tags="|battleship-galaxies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2126" CreationDate="2013-12-04T21:15:11.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've noticed that a lot of the problem is people focusing on the board when it's not their turn (which is good!) to the extent that they don't realize quickly when their turn starts (which is bad). Things sped up a lot when we simply had each player announce &quot;Done!&quot; as they completed their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2013-12-04T21:15:11.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13666" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-05T00:11:57.100" Score="7" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Lands&quot;&gt;Living Lands&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, making all of your Forests 1/1 creatures, and you then enchant one of those Forests with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Living Terrain&lt;/a&gt;, does the enchanted land become a 1/1, a 5/6, or a 6/7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6269" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T01:15:35.570" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T01:27:37.300" Title="Living Lands versus Living Terrain" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13666" CreationDate="2013-12-05T00:36:20.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The abilities of these cards create continuous effects, so we're interested in [CR 613], &amp;quot;Interaction of Continuous Effects&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1. The values of an object’s characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. For a token or a copy of a spell or card, that means the values of the characteristics defined by the effect that created it. Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1d Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object’s card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1e Layer 5: Color-changing effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1g Layer 7: Power- and/or toughness-changing effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.2. Within layers 1–6, apply effects from characteristic-defining abilities first (see rule 604.3), then all other effects in timestamp order (see rule 613.6). Note that dependency may alter the order in which effects are applied within a layer. (See rule 613.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3. Within layer 7, apply effects in a series of sublayers in the order described below. Within each sublayer, apply effects in timestamp order. (See rule 613.6.) Note that dependency may alter the order in which effects are applied within a sublayer. (See rule 613.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.5. If an effect should be applied in different layers and/or sublayers, the parts of the effect each apply in their appropriate ones. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timestamp order of effects is the order in which they were created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Lands&quot;&gt;Living Lands&lt;/a&gt; entered the 'field before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Living Terrain&lt;/a&gt; (as in your scenario),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer 4, It becomes a Forest Land Creature, then it becomes a Treefolk Forest Land Creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer 5, Its color changes to green.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer 7b, Its P/T is set to 1/1, then its P/T is set to 5/6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's a 5/6 green Treefolk Forest Land Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Living Terrain&lt;/a&gt; entered the 'field before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Lands&quot;&gt;Living Lands&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer 4, It becomes a Treefolk Forest Land Creature, then it becomes a Treefolk Forest Land Creature.&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer 5, Its color changes to green.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Layer 7b, Its P/T is set to 5/6, then its P/T is set to 1/1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's a 1/1 green Treefolk Forest Land Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the tie breaker,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.6g If two or more objects would receive a timestamp simultaneously, such as by entering a zone simultaneously or becoming attached simultaneously, the active player determines their timestamp order at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It gets to keep its Treefolk subtype because its current (new) types support it.&lt;sup&gt;[CR 205.1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T01:27:37.300" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T01:27:37.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5618" CreationDate="2013-12-05T03:41:28.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned the game's rule when I was 5 or 6 years old. However, I was really hooked after I read a go book in a small bookstore in Xian (西安) when I was eighteen. The book was written by Go Seigen (吳清源－名局細解).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The book explains every single detail in games between Go Seigen and other top Japanese Go players. It was so inspiring. It was like reading a great painting. It was just beautiful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say I fell in love with go because of the journal to Xian.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than twenty years later, I have written &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/app/qipan-a-sgf-reader/id691029036?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a program on iPad&lt;/a&gt; to read the annotated games of great pro players. The first game to test the program with, is a game of Go Seigen XD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I'd say pro games, like great paintings, are art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4783" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T03:41:28.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5585" CreationDate="2013-12-05T03:59:48.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Count the space, ignore the stones. I usually count space like Japanese rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't count very often, usually after most of the board are shaped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After counting, remember the delta. For example, if I am 5 points behind, play like I am going to gain 6 points. Adjust the delta along the game. In such way, I don't have to count staring from zero every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4783" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T03:59:48.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7144" CreationDate="2013-12-05T10:28:11.553" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation of having only one Cylon in a 5/6 player game is possible if using the &lt;strong&gt;Exodus&lt;/strong&gt; rules for execution and loyalty deck setup. The Exodus expansion added the concept of &quot;You are not a Cylon&quot; deck in addition to the Loyalty deck, and also an additional step to Human Execution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player adds one card from the “You Are Not a Cylon” deck to the&#xA;  Loyalty deck, shuffles the Loyalty deck thoroughly, and draws one new&#xA;  Loyalty Card,which is kept hidden from the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the loyalty deck rules for Exodus always leave one extra card in the loyalty deck, after all of the loyalty cards have been dealt in the Sleep Agent phase. &lt;strong&gt;This occurs even if playing with other expansions&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is done in order to prevent the certainty that comes after executing a character. In the original Pegasus execution rules, executing a character meant knowing for sure whether this character is a Human or a Cylon. In the revised Exodus rules, this means that executing a Human character might turn this character into a Cylon. It does mean, however, that in a five player game, where we have 2 &quot;You are a Cylon&quot; and 9 &quot;You are not a Cylon&quot; cards in the loyalty deck, the chances of one of the &quot;You are a Cylon&quot; card to be at the bottom of the deck are 18% (16% in a six-player game), and thus that card won't be drawn at the sleeper agent phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each execution or personal goal revealed before travel distance is 6 adds an additional card to the Loyalty deck and mixes them before dealing a new Loyalty card to the player who got executed or fulfilled a personal goal, so this probability drops down by 50% each time this happens. Even then, this means that the second Cylon can enter the game only after significant amount of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various approaches exist for this. Some claim that this isn't an issue at all, as the paranoia inherent in the game makes it challenging even if there is only one Cylon in the game. Other people disagree, and have devised various mechanics and house rules in order to deal with this situation, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1064709/avoiding-missing-cylon-syndrome&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;Avoiding 'Missing Cylon Syndrome'&quot;) or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1032385/an-execution-variant-to-solve-the-cylon-on-the-bot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (an execution variant for playing with Pegasus and Exodus). It mostly comes down to the balance in your specific game group with your play style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T10:28:11.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13652" CreationDate="2013-12-05T12:57:48.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now I do not know of an official ruling, but in this instance my group has always practiced that &lt;strong&gt;retreat&lt;/strong&gt; is not the same as &lt;strong&gt;return&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say the rules are telling you, that you are to no longer occupy the same chamber/room as the monster, not that you must go back the way you came.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played &lt;em&gt;Dungeon!&lt;/em&gt; but I have played &lt;em&gt;New Dungeon&lt;/em&gt; which was a precursor to that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always played that &lt;strong&gt;retreat&lt;/strong&gt; simply means you move out of the chamber/room you are in, in whatever direction you fancy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To pretend for a moment: While you are fighting a monster you are moving all around. Who is to say you are on the same side of the room as you started and near the same door you entered through?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T12:57:48.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13644" CreationDate="2013-12-05T14:58:31.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of treasure cards is equal to the number of rooms that exist on each level.  You only get treasure when defeating a monster or triggering a trap in a room.  Therefore, it should never be possible to run out of treasure cards.  My guess is that you were mistakenly awarding treasure in chambers, which should not be the case.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Monsters in Rooms have treasure; those in Chambers do not.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T14:58:31.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13675" CreationDate="2013-12-05T17:05:58.153" Score="3" ViewCount="12636" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHissing%20Miasma%5d&quot;&gt;Hissing Miasma&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature attacks you, its controller loses 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the attacker lose one life per attacking creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6275" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-01T17:17:28.220" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T19:24:43.293" Title="Does &quot;whenever a creature attacks&quot; count for each attacker separately?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13673" CreationDate="2013-12-05T17:32:07.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the attacker will lose one life per attacking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability is a triggered ability, because it uses the word &quot;whenever&quot;. The trigger is a creature having attacked, and if 5 creatures attack, then this will trigger 5 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T17:32:07.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13673" CreationDate="2013-12-05T17:46:39.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes (though they will be lost one at a time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a rule specifically covering this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences. See also rule 509.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent attacks you with an Elf and a Bear, two instances of the event &quot;a creature attacks you&quot; occurred (the Elf attacked you, and the Bear attacked you), so the ability will trigger twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will place these on the stack where they will resolve one at a time, each causing him to lose one life (for a total of two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T18:02:52.277" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T18:02:52.277" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13677" CreationDate="2013-12-05T20:04:21.493" Score="3" ViewCount="6721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unsure how the following situation resolves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A attacks Player B with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Two-Headed%20Cerberus&quot;&gt;Two-Headed Cerberus&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Baleful%20Eidolon&quot;&gt;Baleful Eidolon&lt;/a&gt; bestowed upon it, making it effectively a 2/3 with double strike and deathtouch. Player B blocks with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nessian%20Asp&quot;&gt;Nessian Asp&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first strike damage will kill Player B's asp, so he regenerates it using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boon%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Boon of Erebos&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in the next damage phase? I can see three possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both creatures die (the Asp is killed by the deathtouch, the Cerberus by damage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither creature dies because the regeneration removed the Asp from combat, but the Cerberus was still effectively blocked and does not hit Player B.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither creature dies, but the Cerberus is not blocked in the second damage phase (I don't think this makes sense) and so hits Player B for 2 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T20:38:00.610" Title="Double strike and Regeneration: Can the blocker die from combat after regeneration?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13676" CreationDate="2013-12-05T20:30:09.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is #2. Regenerate causes the creature to be removed from combat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.8. Regeneration is a destruction-replacement effect. The word “instead” doesn’t appear on the card but is implicit in the definition of regeneration. “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. &lt;strong&gt;If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.&lt;/strong&gt;” Abilities that trigger from damage being dealt still trigger even if the permanent regenerates. See rule 701.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the damage that the attacking creature would do, once a creature becomes blocked, it stays blocked no matter what happens to the blocking creature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a &#xA;  blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked &#xA;  creature. This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that &#xA;  it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. &lt;strong&gt;A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c. A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-12-05T20:38:00.610" LastActivityDate="2013-12-05T20:38:00.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13553" CreationDate="2013-12-06T14:48:24.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tip is not just to look for specialist 'game' printers but to look for fancy box manufacturers.  You may get a better range of prices/options depending on the nature of your game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't fulfil your requirement to have the game made in one place, but, having worn the self-publisher T-shirt myself, I'd say sourcing the different parts from different places &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; give you an edge on costs - and flexibility when one sub-component doesn't come out as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T14:48:24.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13553" CreationDate="2013-12-06T15:59:04.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Game Crafter&lt;/a&gt;.  They have a lot of parts in stock, they'll sell your game in their store if you'd like or you can just use them for printing/publishing.  And their prices are very reasonable compared to the other sites I've looked in to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="560" LastActivityDate="2013-12-06T15:59:04.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2013-12-06T18:43:43.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mill deck consists of this and it has worked pretty well so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 Islands&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;12 Swamps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hedron%20Crab&quot;&gt;Hedron Crab&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20the%20Unthinkable&quot;&gt;Glimpse the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avatar%20of%20Woe&quot;&gt;Avatar of Woe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sewer%20Nemesis&quot;&gt;Sewer Nemesis&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Sculpt&quot;&gt;Mind Sculpt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Memory%20Adept&quot;&gt;Jace, Memory Adept&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breaking&quot;&gt;Breaking&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entering&quot;&gt;Entering&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%27s%20Phantasm&quot;&gt;Jace&amp;#39;s Phantasm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duskmantle%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Duskmantle Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Traumatize&quot;&gt;Traumatize&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want to add 4 [Liliana's Caress] and don't know which cards to replace for them. I am thinking of getting rid of 2 Traumatize but not sure which other 2 to replace I am very much wanting to keep my ratio of 24 lands 20 creatures 16 (other) for deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6284" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-12-07T15:11:27.070" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T15:11:27.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13682" CreationDate="2013-12-07T01:21:37.283" Score="3" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Solemn%20Offering&quot;&gt;Solemn Offering&lt;/a&gt; reads &amp;quot;Destroy target artifact or enchantment&amp;quot;, but can it affect auras that are attached to something? I've been searching around but haven't been able to find out one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6286" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-07T01:32:14.123" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T01:36:10.967" Title="Does Solemn Offering affect auras?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13681" CreationDate="2013-12-07T01:36:10.967" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. It can target any permanent with the Enchantment type, be it a plain old Enchantment, an Enchantment - Aura, a Legendary Enchantment Artifact, or an Enchantment Creature. Same goes for artifacts: it can destroy equipment, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aura is a subtype of enchantment, and something which says &quot;target enchantment&quot; doesn't care about subtypes, just that the permanent it targets has enchantment as a type. This is similar to the fact that something which says &quot;destroy target creature&quot; can target any creature, whether it's a Creature - Elf or a Creature - Ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T01:36:10.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13647" CreationDate="2013-12-07T03:02:09.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bicycle has a custom card page: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/custom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclecards.com/custom&lt;/a&gt;, but you must contact them for pricing. They have two tiers &lt;em&gt;personalized&lt;/em&gt; which is 1-500 decks, or &lt;em&gt;custom&lt;/em&gt; which is 2500+ decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6287" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T03:02:09.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-07T16:21:48.013" Score="4" ViewCount="140" Body="&lt;p&gt;does attaching an enchantment Aura to a colorless creature make the creature the color of the Aura?  My opponent has a card with protection from all colors and I have a Brass Squire with Armored Ascension attached to it.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6289" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T20:07:20.377" Title="Armored Ascension" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13687" CreationDate="2013-12-07T16:58:21.200" Score="1" ViewCount="1431" Body="&lt;p&gt;To get rid of a negative condition, you have to role a 5 or a 6.  If you are blessed, where 4 count as successes, does the condition disappears on a 4, 5, and 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T13:49:07.103" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T14:01:10.617" Title="Getting rid of Conditions when blessed" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13686" CreationDate="2013-12-07T17:00:25.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first unwritten rule of cooperative games is &lt;em&gt;if a rule can be interpreted in several ways, the right one is the least helpful to the players&lt;/em&gt;.  Therefore conditions only disapear on a 5 or 6 regardless of other effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the answer from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/support/EH01%20Errata%20&amp;amp;%20FAQ%202013-12-20.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q&lt;/strong&gt;. Is every roll considered a test? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;. No. An effect that tells you to&#xA;  roll a specific number of dice, such as the flare effect on a Cursed&#xA;  Condition, is not a test. These rolls cannot be re rolled or modified&#xA;  by effects that affect tests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T14:01:10.617" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T14:01:10.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29749" CreationDate="2013-12-07T17:03:59.983" Score="1" ViewCount="2423" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if a player should gain an item but that item already is used by another character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the Spy comes into play (because your old character is dead/insane), she possesses a .45.  If you defeat a maniac, you gain the axe.  What happens if those item are already in play in another player's hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2013-12-07T19:01:53.657" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T08:50:07.573" Title="Items already in possession of another character" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13688" CreationDate="2013-12-07T17:05:20.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the rule that &lt;em&gt;if a rule can be interpreted in several ways, the right one is the least helpful to the players&lt;/em&gt;.  Therefore the character neither gains no starts with said item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T17:05:20.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12119" CreationDate="2013-12-07T17:35:18.727" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com//deckdatabase/displaydeck.php?DeckID=60738&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a successful tournament list&lt;/a&gt; for inspiration!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U/B Mill&lt;/strong&gt; (Modern)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Dan Paille — 8th place, SCG Invitational Qualifier, 11/03/2013&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkslick%20Shores&quot;&gt;Darkslick Shores&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scalding%20Tarn&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Watery%20Grave&quot;&gt;Watery Grave&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunken%20Ruins&quot;&gt;Sunken Ruins&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%2C%20Tomb%20of%20Yawgmoth&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shelldock%20Isle&quot;&gt;Shelldock Isle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Memory%20Adept&quot;&gt;Jace, Memory Adept&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20the%20Unthinkable&quot;&gt;Glimpse the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breaking&quot;&gt;Breaking&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archive%20Trap&quot;&gt;Archive Trap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Haunting%20Echoes&quot;&gt;Haunting Echoes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Visions%20of%20Beyond&quot;&gt;Visions of Beyond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howling%20Mine&quot;&gt;Howling Mine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensnaring%20Bridge&quot;&gt;Ensnaring Bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Damnation&quot;&gt;Damnation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hero%27s%20Downfall&quot;&gt;Hero&amp;#39;s Downfall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sideboard&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisition%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Echoing%20Truth&quot;&gt;Echoing Truth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Engineered%20Explosives&quot;&gt;Engineered Explosives&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ratchet%20Bomb&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infest&quot;&gt;Infest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fulminator%20Mage&quot;&gt;Fulminator Mage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This deck is targeting a specific metagame, but there are some general conclusions we can draw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A core of aggressive mill cards.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20the%20Unthinkable&quot;&gt;Glimpse the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breaking&quot;&gt;Breaking&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archive%20Trap&quot;&gt;Archive Trap&lt;/a&gt; are fast. The Jaces, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Haunting%20Echoes&quot;&gt;Haunting Echoes&lt;/a&gt;, and Snapcasters flashing back your early mill cards round out the top end. Really the main takeaway here is that you want about a quarter of your cards to mill the opponent, and a couple of those should be repeatable mill (Jace).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Card draw.&lt;/strong&gt; It takes about five of your mill cards to kill an opponent. Unlike a burn deck, your cards aren't quite fast or flexible enough to just run a deck full of kill cards. Thus, without card draw, it's easy to get into nasty situations where you're treading water hoping to topdeck the right card. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Visions%20of%20Beyond&quot;&gt;Visions of Beyond&lt;/a&gt; is an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Recall&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt; in this deck. This decks' designer is taking a risk with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howling%20Mine&quot;&gt;Howling Mine&lt;/a&gt;, which draws cards for both you and your opponent, but he's counting on mill being an unexpected deck, so most of the extra cards his enemies draw won't interact well with his.  This decks sneaks a bit of extra card advantage in with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shelldock%20Isle&quot;&gt;Shelldock Isle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discard, not counters.&lt;/strong&gt; Most dedicated combo decks will be faster than you, so you want to do something to slow them down. Likewise, a lot of other decks may sideboard &amp;quot;silver bullet&amp;quot; answers that you really want to take out. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/countering-spells/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;using counterspells requires holding mana open, sometimes for turns on end&lt;/a&gt; — which you can't do, since most of your kill cards are sorceries, and you want to cast a bunch of them quickly to power up Visions of Beyond and Haunting Echoes in the later game. Discard spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt; (or its budget-friendlier cousins &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisition%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;) offer very mana-efficient disruption that you can use on your own timetable rather than your opponent's (though &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/article/26855_Thoughtseize-You.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you do need to keep your opponent's deck in mind for optimal timing&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anti-creature speedbumps.&lt;/strong&gt; Your pinpoint disruption will slow down combo decks, but it does very little against aggressive creature decks that don't really care about losing a single card (especially if it costs them two life). This particular version picked &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Damnation&quot;&gt;Damnation&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensaring%20Bridge&quot;&gt;Ensaring Bridge&lt;/a&gt; (you're emptying your hand very aggressively) take care of a lot of threats at once. Ensnaring Bridge is also good against the kinds of midrange decks that can use one big creature at a time to get past your Damnation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Land destruction.&lt;/strong&gt; Big formats are full of powerful lands. In Modern, a particular concern is Tron. Once the Urzatron is assembled, the deck is very hard to stop (especially if they've fetched the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eye%20of%20Ugin&quot;&gt;Eye of Ugin&lt;/a&gt; as well). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt; in the main deck and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fulminator%20Mage&quot;&gt;Fulminator Mage&lt;/a&gt; out of the sideboard help you aggressively attack their lands. Ghost Quarter also covers a gap in your Damnation strategy: it kills removal-dodging manlands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Treetop%20Village&quot;&gt;Treetop Village&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hedron%20Crab&quot;&gt;Hedron Crab&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;/strong&gt; Modern is full of creature-based decks, as are many casual environments. So pretty much everyone is running creature removal. Without many other targets in your deck, they will just throw their removal at your your Crabs. The card's also a terrible late-game topdeck since it hardly does anything on its own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against tournament decks, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; is your best friend.&lt;/strong&gt; This card is a really important part of the deck. Without it, you are actually &lt;em&gt;accelerating&lt;/em&gt; any graveyard deck you fight against. Combined with your aggressive mill plan, Surgical Extraction can neuter a lot of combo decks. It's also a lynchpin against Tron: extracting any of their Urza lands buys you three extra turns &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; — and removing Emrakul in response to its shuffle trigger is the only way to mill them out at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sideboard is even more metagame-specific than the main deck, but we can draw some general conclusions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An answer to a variety of controlling permanents&lt;/strong&gt; — in this case, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Echoing%20Truth&quot;&gt;Echoing Truth&lt;/a&gt; out of the sideboard. Unlike a combo deck, you don't actually care very much about having a few of your cards countered. But there are some permanents that just shut you down &lt;em&gt;cold&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Sanctity&quot;&gt;Leyline of Sanctity&lt;/a&gt; soft-locks you, for example). You need a way to get rid of these. Since blue/black is rather poor in non-creature removal, Paille chose to run a bounce spell — follow it up with Thoughtseize or take a &amp;quot;big turn&amp;quot; (like Glimpse, Glimpse, Jace mill) before they can recast their card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sideboard hate for the fastest or most disruptive decks you expect to see, ideally with overlap.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt; is a good example here. It gives you a lot of life gain against aggro decks &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; stops Living End, which is a graveyard deck that can cause problems for you since it's fast and fairly resilient to Extraction (all of their combo pieces are interchangeable, except for Living End, which doesn't need to be in the yard to work). Likewise, consider how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Engineered%20Explosives&quot;&gt;Engineered Explosives&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ratchet%20Bomb&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt; do double duty against Affinity and Twin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to remember is that Glimpse-based mill doesn't play like a typical combo deck, where you're trying to assemble a card from column A and a card from column B. It's more like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/deck/1065&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;burn&lt;/a&gt;: a bunch of interchangeable kill cards and a few answers to slow down fast decks or get past silver-bullet showstoppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T01:18:36.513" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T01:18:36.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13692" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-07T19:06:20.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cooperative game where players play the role of investigator trying to stop the Elder Gods from ravaging the Earth.  The game is a more modern and stream lined version of Arkham Horror containing much similarities (the investigators for example) and various rules simplifications.  Although, it is by no means a simple game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eldritch Horror is a cooperative game of terror and adventure in which&#xA;  one to eight players take the roles of globetrotting investigators&#xA;  working to solve mysteries, gather clues, and protect the world from&#xA;  an Ancient One - an elder being intent on destroying our world. Each&#xA;  Ancient One comes with its own unique decks of Mystery and Research&#xA;  cards, which draw you deeper into the lore surrounding each loathsome&#xA;  creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mountains of Madness &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mountains-of-madness&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mountains-of-madness&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mountains-of-madness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forsaken Lore &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/forsaken-lore&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;forsaken-lore&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;forsaken-lore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the Pyramids &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/under-the-pyramids&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;under-the-pyramids&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;under-the-pyramids&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strange Remnants &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/strange-remnants&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;strange-remnants&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;strange-remnants&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Signs of Carcosa &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/signs-of-carcosa&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;signs-of-carcosa&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;signs-of-carcosa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Dreamlands&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=244&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt; at Fantasy Flight Games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/146021/eldritch-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; summary&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T04:23:45.320" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T04:23:45.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13693" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-07T19:06:20.533" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game where players play the role of investigator trying to stop the Elder Gods from ravaging the Earth." OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T22:01:41.110" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T22:01:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13685" CreationDate="2013-12-07T20:07:20.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your creature will still be colorless. An Aura would only change the color if specifically said so, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sinister%20Strength&quot;&gt;Sinister Strength&lt;/a&gt;. This means that your opponent's creature is not protected from your Brass Squire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-12-07T20:07:20.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T15:09:03.280" Score="0" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;We do not understand how to perform the battle sequence with an attacking force of one infantry, one tank, one airplane, one artillery against two tanks, one infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacker rolled two (2)s for the attacking units at (3). Does this mean (2) units are moved to the casualty strip and does the defender choose which units to be destroyed? Defender rolls a 5 and a 3 resulting in one hit. Who chooses the unit to be destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6296" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T18:44:28.863" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:52:37.343" Title="Does a hit destroy a unit in Axis and Allies 1942?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13769" CreationDate="2013-12-08T16:05:25.987" Score="7" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like your advice about what I should bid in the following situation. Partner opens 1C, I answer 1H, he bids 2H. My hand is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S : none&lt;br&gt;&#xA;H : K Q J x x x&lt;br&gt;&#xA;D : A K Q x x x&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C : J  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I bid now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6293" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T18:04:45.233" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T02:58:25.663" Title="Bidding a very special hand" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13705" CreationDate="2013-12-08T16:51:03.147" Score="14" ViewCount="5392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Played Seafarers/Cities and Knights recently with someone new and they insisted that a gold field would allow a city to draw a resource and a commodity.  I may have missed something, but I checked my rules and the FAQ and didn't find anything specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His reasoning was that in C&amp;amp;K a city can produce commodities, so naturally a gold field would allow you to get one as well.  Additionally, that the rules say a city can't choose to take two resources instead of a resource and a commodity (for a city that produces a commodity) so the ability to take two wood/ore/sheep would also be against the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning was that the Seafarers rules specifically mention resources only and the rules for combining the two make no mention of any changes, so the Seafarers rules should apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we settled this amicably (after all, we play to have fun), for future reference, who was right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T18:48:19.240" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T17:24:16.273" Title="Does a gold field draw a resource and commodity, when combining Seafarers and C&amp;K?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13699" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T18:43:55.337" Score="1" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I had a hand like the following: (s) KJxx (h) xxx (d) AJx (c) AKx. If I were the opening bidder, I would, of course, bid 1NT. (Note to commenter below: In this paragraph, I was describing a &quot;generic&quot; balanced 4-3-3-3 16 hcp &quot;no trump&quot; hand with honors in three suits. This was NOT a specific question about the particular hand configuration above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone opened in front of me with 1 club, diamond, or spade (all of which I have a stopper in), but not 1 heart, I would still bid 1NT as an overcall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earliest I could do this is in the second seat, after the original bid. In this case, I know little about the holdings of either the opponent's partner or mine, except that they are constrained by the strength of the first two bidders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I overcalled in the third seat, I would know that my partner (first seat) was a passed  hand but I wouldn't know this about my opponent's partner (fourth seat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I overcalled in the fourth seat, I would know that both my and the opener's partners had passed hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the &quot;one bid&quot; came from the first seat instead of the third seat, I would be in the &quot;balancing&quot; seat, and possibly overcall 1NT with 12-14 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do I need to be more careful in the third seat, since I might be sandwiched between two strong opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the &quot;one bid&quot; came from the third seat after two passes, can I overcall light in the fourth seat as if I am &quot;balancing,&quot; even though technically I'm in the direct seat? Expert Larry Cohen calls this &quot;balancing in the direct seat&quot; and advocates this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If opener bid a suit in which I have stoppers (that is, other than hearts), can I worry &quot;less&quot; about he heart suit, on the theory that since opener didn't show strength in hearts, my partner and the opener's partner are equally likely to have strength in that suit? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T18:09:31.393" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T18:09:31.393" Title="In bridge, are there different implications of overcalling 1NT in different positions?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13696" CreationDate="2013-12-08T18:49:34.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The receiver of the hits chooses which units to lose. In this example, the defender suffered two losses and would probably choose to lose one infantry and one tank (although he could, in theory take two tanks as losses).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacker suffered one hit, and will probably elect to lose the infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why there is a so-called &quot;infantry push mechanic&quot; in the game, that encourages both sides to build (and lose) mainly infantry. Heavier units are for attack (not defense), to give your infantry an advantage over their infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T18:49:34.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T19:42:42.053" Score="2" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Symbiosis card states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Symbiosis is] played on a pair of creatures in a tandem. Choose the first creature as a &quot;symbiont&quot;. The second creature can not be attacked as long as the &quot;symbiont&quot; stays alive, and can receive red/blue food tokens only after the &quot;symbiont&quot; has been FED.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there were any restrictions for carnivores and/or high body weight as the &quot;dependent&quot; symbiont.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I had a marked a small creature the symbiont, and its dependent was a high weight carnivore. During my first action in the feeding round, I used my dependent symbiont to eat another creature. Do I pass on the two blue tokens since my symbiont partner had not been fed yet? This didn't make sense since eating another creature has no bearing on the relationship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any annotated rulesets that might help clarify these types of pairwise card plays? I for one find it odd that a high weight creature could be dependent on a low weight creature for food. This is especially true if the dependent is also a carnivore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T12:11:26.707" Title="Evolution: Symbiosis Cards and Carnivorous/High Body Weight" Tags="|evolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13697" CreationDate="2013-12-08T20:13:00.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The things your partner need most to know about are your spade void and strong diamonds. So I would bid three diamonds [changed from spades], to show my stopper in that suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner has &quot;nothing&quot; to say, he'll bid hearts, but more likely, he'll bid four clubs to show his ace in that suit. Then you can bid four spades [changed from diamonds] to show your void [changed from ace].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have the material for a small, or even grand slam. All you need are the ace of clubs and the ace of hearts for the latter. Since partner opened, he will have one or both of those unless he has a lot of wasted honors in spades. (Hopefully he has the two good aces, eight high card points, plus a few, but not &quot;many&quot; spade honors for his opener).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Based on the comments of others, I believe I got the original order of suits wrong. That is, I now believe that you should bid three diamonds first to show the stopper, then spades to show the void. That is, lower-ranking suit, then higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T14:38:35.777" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T14:38:35.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T22:19:02.207" Score="8" ViewCount="1783" Body="&lt;p&gt;If combat has started and the other players start discussing what to do to me can I play a one-shot card while they are discussing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6297" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T23:11:16.537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T21:51:24.147" Title="During battle can I play a one-shot card?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-08T23:03:02.273" Score="3" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing the very first board of the first round of an ordinary session at the local bridge club. I was delayed in getting my cards out of the board as I was learning to set up the computer system and BridgeMates. My partner is very elderly. She was eager to start playing so after she sorted her cards she took MY cards out of the board and sorted them for me, leaving them face down on the table. When I came back to the table I was amazed at what she had done and so were the oppenents. However the opponents said not to worry this time and to start the bidding but that she shouldn't ever do it again. It turned out that the one of the opponents had 23 points in her hand and probably wanted to bid rather than call the director.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I now know that we should have called the Director - but what would his ruling have been in this case? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6298" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T23:14:30.037" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T03:28:31.127" Title="If my partner sorted my cards for me, what would the official ruling be?" Tags="|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13698" CreationDate="2013-12-08T23:15:50.480" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your are correct. I believe that the official Cities and Kights rules are clear enough for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Commodities are produced only by cities, and only in forest, pasture, and mountains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be different if Cities always produce commodities in C&amp;amp;K, but that's not that case. Cities on grain or brick don't produce commodities, and C&amp;amp;K rules specifically mention which lands produce commodities. Gold should be treated more like grain and brick; you get double resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to an answer on the German FAQ: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.siedeln.de/faq/327_152_de.html&quot;&gt;http://www.siedeln.de/faq/327_152_de.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly translated, it says no you cannot take commodities from the gold field; and it explains it by saying that every rule still counts unless it is specifically countered by a different rule; so the Seafarers rule about what you can get from a Gold Field still applies; because the C&amp;amp;K rules don't specify otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T17:24:16.273" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T17:24:16.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13703" CreationDate="2013-12-08T23:21:17.307" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, go right ahead. For most one-shots, the only requirement for playing them is that there's combat happening. As soon as it is, you can play your one-shots. You don't need to wait your turn or anything like that - there's no turn to wait for! Snoozers losers, you've got loot and levels to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;original rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Items – Using Them&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any one-shot Item can by played during any combat,&#xA;  whether you have it in your hand or on the table. (Some&#xA;  one-shot Items, such as the &lt;strong&gt;Wishing Ring&lt;/strong&gt;, may also be used&#xA;  outside of combat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no other constraints, and no &quot;you can only play it when the other players say it's OK or are done talking.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Curses in particular, remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Curse cards may be played on any player at any time. ANY time, do you hear me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-12-08T23:26:41.163" LastActivityDate="2013-12-08T23:26:41.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13709" CreationDate="2013-12-09T00:03:38.640" Score="5" ViewCount="918" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Charmed%20Pendant&quot;&gt;Charmed Pendant&lt;/a&gt; has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}, Put the top card of your library into your graveyard: For each colored mana symbol in that card's mana cost, add one mana of that color to your mana pool. Activate this ability only any time you could cast an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reaper%20King&quot;&gt;Reaper King&lt;/a&gt; has a mana cost made entirely of colorless hybrid symbols. If I turn over Reaper King with Charmed Pendant, can I add any mana to my mana pool? If so, do I have to add one mana of every color? Can I add any colorless mana to my mana pool instead of colored mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T01:23:43.217" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T06:49:21.910" Title="How does Charmed Pendant interact with Reaper King?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13704" CreationDate="2013-12-09T00:51:48.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was directing I would rule under Law 12-A-2 (Normal Play of the Board Impossible): Average-plus to your opponents, average-minus to you and you partner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would further rule under Law 90-B-5 (Improperly Touching Another Player's Cards) a further 10% penalty to both pairs. It is your Partner's duty to obey the Rules of the game, which she flagrantly violated. Likewise, your opponents being at the table, they should have prevented the irregularity from occurring, or called the Director themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would net your opponents a flat average (average-plus at 60% - 10% = 50%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would net you and your partner a 30% (average minus at 40% - 10% = 30%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; have allowed play of this board to occur (at this table); this is necessary to reinforce the first ruling above in everyone's minds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent's were &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; new to the game I might forgo the second penalty against them; you and your partner always gets both barrels of the penalty however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T03:28:31.127" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T03:28:31.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13707" CreationDate="2013-12-09T00:51:53.397" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have to add WUBRG to your mana pool.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.4e Hybrid mana symbols are also colored mana symbols. Each one represents a cost that can be paid in one of two ways, as represented by the two halves of the symbol. A hybrid symbol such as {W/U} can be paid with either white or blue mana, and a monocolored hybrid symbol such as {2/B} can be paid with either one black mana or two mana of any type. &lt;strong&gt;A hybrid mana symbol is all of its component colors.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colorless is not a color, so you cannot add colorless mana to your pool in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;105.4. If a player is asked to choose a color, he or she must choose one of the five colors. “Multicolored” is not a color. &lt;strong&gt;Neither is “colorless.”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note the rules clarification on the card's Gatherer page: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you flip over a hybrid card, you get one of either color mana, not both, for each mana symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just in cases where you flip other, &quot;proper&quot; hybrid cards with 2-colored hybrid mana symbols. In this case, you don't even have a choice as you can't pick colorless for a color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T00:51:53.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13697" CreationDate="2013-12-09T01:05:49.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My concerns are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That the opponents aren't in this auction yet despite a ton of distribution, and so suits are likely to be breaking badly for us; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My hand is far too strong to make a descriptive splinter call and appoint partner captain of the hand. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I wish to take advantage of the opponents silence to describe my hand, so partner can make an intelligent &lt;em&gt;bid again or double&lt;/em&gt; decision on the next round. Therefore I bid a simple 3D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is forcing one round (by virtue of being a new suit by responder); &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promises strength to play 3H or 4D, or better, safely;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promises a fifth heart (or slam interest, or both); and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Promises either a fourth diamond or hidden club support. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is intended to give partner the greatest possible room to complete the description of his hand, which so far sounds like the only balanced hand at the table with 3-4-2-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like RHO is long in clubs and diamonds, and LHO is long in hearts and clubs, and no-one is holding better than honour-fourth in spades. At least two, if not three or four, spades are missing from this deck unless the opponents are red against white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the vulnerability, and who is the dealer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; From OP above, both vulnerable and partner dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuation. Partner will take 3D for a game try and bid one of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3H to decline - you will continue with 3S game forcing, showing a control in spades, requesting partner to show a control. If partner shows the club ace you will continue with 5NT GSF as below;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H to accept, no extra values - you will continue with 4S control showing; if partner then bids 5C you will bid 5NT GSF and continue to 7 if he shows 1 with or without a side king.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4C to show the club control - continue with 5NT GSF as above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3S to show the spade control then bid 4D to reveal the missing club control. If partner then bids 4H to deny it, you will have to guess - and rue not responding 1D originally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how much easier the auction is if the original response is 1D receiving a raise; hearts can be cue-bid without ambiguity to locate the other missing card.  Ease in correctly deciding between 5 or 6 r 7 is worth far more than the difference between a major or minor denomination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T06:32:01.367" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T06:32:01.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13699" CreationDate="2013-12-09T01:17:41.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Learn to evaluate this hand as being worth only 14 points, 14.5 at the very, very, most, and your bridge results will improve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No 10's, no 9's, no 8's, not even any 7's. The opponents will kill you with these cards leading through any and all quacks held by you and your partner. Then they will lead these cards through your kings to kill those too. Minus 1 point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minus one point for 4333 distribution. Goren was the world's best bridge teacher for three decades for good reason. Read his books, and recognize that in Chapter one he always stated that the 3-2-1 distribution points &lt;strong&gt;are not ruffing values&lt;/strong&gt;, but indicative of general hand strength from the shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open aggressively in third seat, for the preemptive value against a strong hand in fourth seat. Open &lt;strong&gt;this&lt;/strong&gt; hand 1S in 3rd seat, and teach partner the Drury convention in that situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open passively in fourth seat, so still  open this hand 1S and again teach partner the Drury convention for this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I don't care that you are playing five card majors&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open 1spade anyways, and teach partner the Drury convention in this situation. Presumably you are asking here to learn better bridge. Learn to open strong 4-card spade suites in 3rd and 4th seat. This is part of becoming a better bridge player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't open 14 point hands 1NT when playing 15-17HCP as your 1NT range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T01:17:41.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2013-12-09T02:52:40.860" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Scrabble with kids all the time, I think the same concepts would work nicely with an ESL opponent. To me handicapping by points (opponent starts with 150 or 200 points or whatever) does nothing to make the game more fun for either player. What does work is allowing my young opponent all the time they need for each turn - I get timed. They get all of the good cheat sheets - I don't (that one is fair even even if I'm playing an adult native English speaker with less Scrabble experience). And if the gap is really big - especially if Scrabble is being used as an educational tool - allowing my opponent timed use of the dictionary or OSPD while figuring their play. For the last one, consider limiting the time the opponent gets to use the dictionary more and more as the gap narrows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BTW, using timing the stronger player as a handicap only works if that player draws tiles at the beginning of their turn instead of the end of their last one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2018-10-26T03:44:07.650" LastActivityDate="2018-10-26T03:44:07.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13713" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-09T05:38:29.313" Score="4" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related:&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13173/what-is-a-fair-scrabble-handicap&quot;&gt;What is a fair Scrabble handicap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scrabble is a great game for competitive type A types and the learning curve is STEEP at first. Great game. Like most games, house rules vary and are fine as long as everyone agrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I enjoy introducing new people to the game, but it's not fun for anyone if I win the first game by 250 points. One thing I find helpful is giving everybody a list of 2 letter words. It's just not fair otherwise because of course I have them memorized, yet a newbie isn't going to know that QI and ZA are legal plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume relatively equal mastery of the English language. What else can be done to help those first few games be competitive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T02:20:45.683" Title="Scrabble - What if any &quot;House Rules&quot; work to even the playing field with more and less experienced players?" Tags="|house-rules|scrabble|handicap|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13720" CreationDate="2013-12-09T06:45:51.127" Score="9" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;When another player builds next to you, you can choose to taken power (and lose the #power-1 points). But when the number of power you can take is greater than the number of tokens you can move to your third power bowl, can you immediately convert power into something else?  Or do you lose the rest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastEditorUserId="6225" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T10:58:21.040" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T10:58:21.040" Title="When can power be converted?" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13530" CreationDate="2013-12-09T07:30:36.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is such a list, I've seen it. I can't swear to it 100%, but I think that it's in this book. As a matter of fact, I think it is in chapter 15 (use the &quot;look inside&quot; feature).&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1416561757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Everything Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T07:30:36.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13719" CreationDate="2013-12-09T09:02:45.567" Score="2" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;When selling cotton to an external market the scale (if there's any left after turning the card) provides what the rules describe as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;an additional amount&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; of between £1 to £4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's ambiguous whether that extra amount is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An amount in &lt;strong&gt;cash&lt;/strong&gt;, as a one-off payment from the bank.  The amounts seem negligible if this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An additional &lt;strong&gt;income&lt;/strong&gt;.  The point of doing this action is to increase income, so the word &lt;em&gt;additional&lt;/em&gt; suggests this is additional income. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it is additional income, is it an increase income &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;squares&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or income &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bands&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?  The scale is marked in £ so that implies an increment of a salary band.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various other rule summaries and versions seem to just echo the words of the original, so they're not much help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've played both #1 and #2 without much impact either way, but still very uncertain which way this is supposed to be.   For info, I've a first edition copy of the game, so this may be clearer in later editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T13:48:46.363" Title="Selling to external market in Brass, is benefit salary or cash?" Tags="|brass|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2960" CreationDate="2013-12-09T11:26:07.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't really make sense to keep the gates on the board since they would be tied to the threat of an oncoming great old one. Presumably your characters would have had some downtime between one game in the campaign and the next. &#xA;I imagine it would be like seasons in an ongoing tv-show.&#xA;However, one could always make a roll for each gate to close some of the gates between games. Or giving each of the characters 1 chance to close each gate, going into it fully restored before starting the next game. This gives the opportunity to reduce the initial threat while making a fair deal of sense theme-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6302" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T11:26:07.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3472" CreationDate="2013-12-09T11:35:57.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can purchase most of the official expansions, mini-expansions and replacement parts (individual meeples, tiles, etc.) at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cundco.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cundco.de/&lt;/a&gt; ... it's all just in German though! :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6303" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T11:35:57.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13716" CreationDate="2013-12-09T13:48:46.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The extra amount is in &lt;strong&gt;additional income, in &lt;em&gt;squares&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.treefroggames.com/brass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;publisher's website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if you sell to the Distant Market then the additional income shown on the Cotton Demand track is added to your income level, it is not taken as cash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And further on, clarifying that you go up by squares, not bands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you gain income you go up a number spaces equal to the income increase, e.g. if you gained £5 then you would go up five spaces. Note that this does not translate into an increase of £5 in actual income, as that depends on the income band you are in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bands are only used when reducing your income due to taking loans. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T13:48:46.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13714" CreationDate="2013-12-09T14:02:34.687" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You lose the rest&lt;/strong&gt;. Conversions are performed only on your turn. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.feuerland-spiele.de/dateien/Terra_Mystica_EN_1.0_.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (p. 13):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anytime during your turn, on top of your Action, you may do any number of Conversions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and from p. 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once all Power tokens are in Bowl III, you cannot gain further Power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if you are close to the limit of your Power, and expect to gain more before your next turn, you may want to consider Converting some of it to a useful resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T14:02:34.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13724" CreationDate="2013-12-09T14:22:01.330" Score="2" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;When does yielding occur in relation to dice resolution? Simultaneously? After all dice have resolved? After attack dice are resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example (A for attack die, H for heart):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Alice is outside Tokyo, Bob is inside. It is now Alice's turn.&#xA;Alice rolls: 3, 3, 3, A, A, H&#xA;? Handle VP and hearts?&#xA;Alice attacks Bob&#xA;Bob chooses to yield&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now consider the possibility Alice has a single shrink ray token, so she only rolls 5 dice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Alice is outside Tokyo, Bob is inside. It is now Alice's turn.&#xA;Alice rolls: 3, 3, 3, A, H&#xA;? Handle VP and hearts?&#xA;Alice attacks Bob&#xA;Bob chooses to yield&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She must choose if the heart is applied to heal for one, or if it will remove the shrink ray token. In this case, order of resolution for the attack/yield and heart matters (more/less information for Alice &amp;amp; Bob, inability to heal in Tokyo). Is there an order to the dice resolution (eg hearts then attacks), or is the yield not declared until after all dice have resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3101" LastEditorUserId="3101" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T15:08:05.213" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T08:58:08.333" Title="Do dice finish resolving before yielding Tokyo?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12063" CreationDate="2013-12-09T14:22:39.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group decided on this house rule:  &lt;code&gt;Changed&lt;/code&gt; costs 10 toughness or 2 gates or 1 gate &amp;amp; 5 toughness to get.  However, the path to get it costs &lt;em&gt;two move points&lt;/em&gt; instead of one and you &lt;em&gt;are not forced to stop&lt;/em&gt; on the way. This make getting there much easier while keeping the cost high.  It is not a perfect solution but it makes &lt;code&gt;Changed&lt;/code&gt; worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T14:22:39.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13553" CreationDate="2013-12-09T15:26:42.327" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I published 5 games, three of them made in professional quantities (3,000, 2,000 and 3,000). For the first one I used Carta Mundi in the UK, but I was pretty unhappy with the customer service and the finished product quality. The other two I used LudoFact in Germany (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludofact.de/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ludofact.de/&lt;/a&gt;). They were excellent, both in customer service, delivery schedule and finished product quality. They are however, expensive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cheaper option would be to go Chinese, Panda Manufacturing (&lt;a href=&quot;http://pandagm.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://pandagm.com/&lt;/a&gt;) are one example of that. I have no experience with Chinese manufacturers however, so you would have to  approach them and get your own feel for them as a partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T15:26:42.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13721" CreationDate="2013-12-09T15:40:57.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is my opinion that the dice indicate what happens to you at your current location. A heart dice would indicate that you healed, if your location permits it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is partially supported by the fact that one must take all damage rolled even if one cedes Tokyo. You should similarly be able to use all hearts even if you are forced to take Tokyo. There's absolutely no mention or implication of any other possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone I've played with has naturally come to the same understanding. You could view podcasts of people playing KoT, but I'm sure they've come to the same conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;She must choose if the heart is applied to heal for one, or if it will remove the shrink ray token. In this case, order of resolution for the attack/yield and heart matters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/743476/faq-in-english-answered-by-gabriel-iello-in-a-fren&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; on BoardGameGeek, removing a bad counter counts as healing and is thus equally forbidden in Tokyo, so the order does not affect the choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T16:18:21.893" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T16:18:21.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13661" CreationDate="2013-12-09T17:11:13.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creator of Dominion has stated that the reason for the first player advantage is that he or she can effectively get more turns. If you force everyone to have the same number of turns using phantom Provinces, then you should nullify the first player advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Getting an extra turn is definitely an advantage. But going first is&#xA;  only an advantage if you get that turn. If you go first but don't get&#xA;  an extra turn, a tiebreaker going to the other guy amounts to just&#xA;  randomly stealing a deserved tie from you. You didn't play worse, you&#xA;  just randomly went first. A tiebreaker there doesn't solve the problem&#xA;  of an advantage due to going first (and does nothing for cases with no&#xA;  tie); it just randomly awards victories in some cases where there was&#xA;  no such advantage. It's the same as flipping a coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/2809700#2809700&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/2809700#2809700&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So among casual gamers, up until the creator of Dominion, the phantom Province houserule seems like a pretty reasonable fix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the &quot;expert&quot; level, as GendoIkari points out, this house rule does no good. Besides the issue of game ending, there are also powerful mega turn decks that get weird. Let's say King's Court, Bridge, and Worker's Village are on the board. You can start to create decks that can buy 20 Provinces in one turn. In these games, the SECOND player gets the advantage. Let's say both players are building power decks, and on a given turn, both P1 and P2 can buy 7 provinces in a turn. If P1 buys 7 provinces, P2 can build for another turn. Now P1 has a stuffed deck, and if he buys 1-2 provinces on the next turn, P2 can pounce and buy 12+ provinces and win. On the other hand, once P1/P2 are able to buy 8 Provinces, if P1 doesn't go out with a bang, P2 will buy out the pile and P1 won't have bought anything. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say that if your group (1) doesn't count points so that people know who is in the lead and by how many points, and (2) doesn't produce decks that can buy &gt;2 Provinces per turn, playing with the house rule is more fair than playing without it (of course, playing a bunch of games and exchanging 1st player position is best).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4789" LastEditorUserId="4789" LastEditDate="2013-12-09T20:23:27.310" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T20:23:27.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13727" CreationDate="2013-12-09T19:13:30.613" Score="4" ViewCount="1257" Body="&lt;p&gt;In SoC: E&amp;amp;P, one can pay the pirate gold in order to move one's ships. Who receives that gold? The pirate owner or the bank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastEditorUserId="1696" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T16:52:53.387" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T06:01:48.390" Title="In Settlers of Catan: Explorers and Pirates, who gets the gold when the pirate is paid?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13726" CreationDate="2013-12-09T19:31:08.413" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/down/?/files/downloads/ep_overviewrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Explorers and Pirates rules&lt;/a&gt; under the &lt;em&gt;Paying Tribute to the Pirate&lt;/em&gt; section (page 11):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The tribute costs 1 gold, and you pay it to the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From earlier in the rules, in the &lt;em&gt;Preparation&lt;/em&gt; section (page 6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place the resource cards and dice from the base &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; game beside the game board to form a supply area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is paid to the supply, which is commonly referred to as the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T06:01:48.390" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T06:01:48.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="40371" CreationDate="2013-12-09T20:20:11.140" Score="6" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed in Kingdom Builder that the later players have a noticeable disadvantage if they have a card for the same terrain, because there is usually only one good spot to start with (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7808&quot;&gt;the question on initial placements&lt;/a&gt;), and that will be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I have suggested and played with this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the first round, if you draw a card with a terrain that one of the players before you has had already, you draw again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not play it often enough for it to occur often enough to assess whether this helps, and whether later player still have a too-large disadvantage. Have you tried that or similar rules before, and how did it go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5166" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T17:06:55.693" Title="Initial card house rule for Kingdom Builder" Tags="|house-rules|openings|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2013-12-09T21:54:24.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to any of the other variations mentioned, one of the variations we have used to speed up games is to provide each player a number of &quot;trade tokens.&quot;  We keep this low as we don't want to diminish the value of having ports, so typically 1-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These trade tokens can be used to trade two resources (same type) for any one resource. When the token is used, it is removed from the game.  If you try this with C&amp;amp;K, I would suggest limiting this to only resources (no commodities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limiting the tokens means players want to preserve them for when they really need them, so they still try to trade with other players first, but it gives you an option if no one is getting a certain resource or one is just not available when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are held to the end game, it also helps to speed the game as it can sometimes slow down when players get close to winning and no one will trade with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Sorry for resurrecting an old Q/A, but thought this was worth throwing into the mix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastActivityDate="2013-12-09T21:54:24.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13730" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-10T06:54:29.373" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-10T06:54:29.373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T06:54:29.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13731" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-10T06:54:29.373" Score="0" Body="Terra Mystica is a highly strategic game for 2 to 5 players. Each player chooses one of 14 different races and develops their civilization during 6 rounds. The game takes about 40 minutes per player." OwnerUserId="6225" LastEditorUserId="6225" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T12:44:35.077" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T12:44:35.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2013-12-10T08:00:47.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielematerial.de/en/game-components/catan-all-about-the-settler-universe.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.spielematerial.de/en/game-components/catan-all-about-the-settler-universe.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Great website from Germany that sells all the Settlers playing pieces; many options ... you can buy sets of pieces or just the missing parts :). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6307" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T08:00:47.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13721" CreationDate="2013-12-10T08:58:08.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice chooses in which order to resolve dice and how to use them (heart for heal of to remove shrink ray). Alice get the opportunity to finish resolving ALL dice before Bob can declare yielding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6308" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T08:58:08.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24125" CreationDate="2013-12-10T11:11:41.243" Score="9" ViewCount="25479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a solid strategy that you can apply to increase the chances of a win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArNdOESpLXrNdE5obElscWdwU2JwQ1JPQXJVZ3ZfRlE&amp;amp;usp=drive_web#gid=3&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eldritch Horror statistics&lt;/a&gt; do help in working out what can go wrong/right. But they do not offer a specific strategy -- if there is one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T00:47:33.233" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T03:56:46.830" Title="What is a solid basic strategy for surviving Eldritch Horror?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2025" CreationDate="2013-12-10T16:26:02.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20038/catan-event-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan Event Cards&lt;/a&gt; (optionally played without using the events themselves) or even the more generic &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/5460/the-deck-of-dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deck of Dice&lt;/a&gt; can reduce the randomness of the game significantly, which would include evening out the early game resource distribution. I very much prefer to play this way, being relatively certain that my &quot;10&quot; will produce 2-3 times during the first 31-36 turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-12-10T16:26:02.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13747" CreationDate="2013-12-10T19:03:35.337" Score="2" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text of &quot;Moral High Ground&quot; goes something like &quot;For each Free Agent revealed in your hand&quot;, and is worth 1 IP per reveal.  This brought up some debate on exactly what and WHEN the reveal was qualified.  The first player to use it played his Free Agents, then tried to claim the points. I argued that because he had played them, when the mission was evaluated at his turn's end, he no longer hand the Agent &quot;in hand.&quot;  Also, with a name like &quot;Moral High Ground&quot; actually playing the Agent seemed against the spirit of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on, another player got this Mission and tried the tactic of revealing a Free Agent, then playing it.  His argument was that when evaluating the Mission, he had revealed the Agent during his turn, so it should apply.  That seems like splitting hairs to me though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the correct interpretation of this Mission Card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T17:11:57.363" Title="How is the &quot;Moral High Ground&quot; Mission Card intended to work?" Tags="|the-agents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13746" CreationDate="2013-12-10T19:06:57.747" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in a three player game, but I think it'd be even worse in 4 or 5.  One of the Free Agents (&quot;The Interloper&quot; maybe?) has the power &quot;Move one Agent from any Faction into a neighboring Faction.&quot;  I think it was neighboring, it might have been to any other one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you could (and probably would) be moving from a non-adjacent faction, how would you preserve the orientation?  If the command faces a player on one side and you move it to a neighboring faction, the command still has to face that player, yes?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the card did say move from &quot;any faction to any faction?&quot;  How would orientation be preserved then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T01:17:57.720" Title="When moving an Agent from a non-local Faction, what is the correct orientation?" Tags="|the-agents|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-10T19:42:57.293" Score="2" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a three-player game, the first player had about 38 points.  It is the last player's turn, and he uses a Free Agent which gives the first player (whose turn will normally be next) 41 points, triggering the game ending condition.  The last player then ends his turn and collects points, which also pushes the last player over 40.  Does the game end immediately, or does it go for one more round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played one further round, under the logic that: 1) the first player went over 40 first, off-turn. 2) the rules state that &quot;When a player reaches 40 points at the end of their turn...&quot; and 3) since he was first player, everyone else gets a turn to act so that everyone would get the same number of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the argument for the game ending immediately is: the last player went over 40 at the end of his turn (his turn ended on 40 first), and since everyone had played the same number of turns, the game ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="314" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T12:36:33.067" Title="When does the game end when the last player pushes the first player over the 40-point limit?" Tags="|the-agents|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29801" CreationDate="2013-12-10T20:40:40.840" Score="3" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some questions about which of these are legal plays when attacking a creature that has the mimicry attribute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Setup: I have a creature that only has mimicry on it. It is attacked by another player who has a creature that only has carnivore on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature that only has the swimming attribute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature that only has the burrowing attribute, and is FED.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature that only has the high weight attribute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature that is protected by its symbiont.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature that only has the camouflage attribute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature that only has the hibernation ability attribute, and is using it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these legal plays to force a player to attack an invalid target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the camouflage one possibly being OK, since we thought about how chameleons aren't always camouflaged, but what about animals that violate the theme more expressely, like swimming?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I heard arguments while playing that playing mimicry to force a player to attack a high body weight creature was ok because &quot;animals puff up all the time to look bigger than they are&quot;, and hence, avoid getting eaten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:16:32.057" Title="Using Mimicry on an invalid target" Tags="|evolution|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-10T22:49:12.710" Score="1" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature enchanted with a bestow creature dies while blocking a creature, the bestow enchantment becomes a creature. Can that creature block in the same combat, even though all the blockers have already been declared?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6316" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:39:36.617" LastActivityDate="2019-07-13T15:38:17.857" Title="Can I block with a previously bestowed creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13741" CreationDate="2013-12-10T22:59:26.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, as you've said in your question, all of the blockers have already been declared. There's not another opportunity to declare blockers, especially not after combat damage has been dealt!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps of combat are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;beginning of combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;declare attackers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;declare blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;end of combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your creature presumably doesn't die until the combat damage step. You can't go back to the declare blockers step to declare a new blocker, and it wouldn't even make any sense to: by the time your blocker takes damage and dies, combat damage dealt to you by unblocked creatures has already happened too, so there's nothing left to accomplish by blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if your creature dies after blockers are declared, but still in the declare blockers step - destroyed by an instant, perhaps - it's of course still too late. If on the other hand it dies &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; blockers are declared, the bestowed-aura-turned-creature can certainly block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T00:12:22.913" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T00:12:22.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-11T04:57:13.510" Score="9" ViewCount="17370" Body="&lt;p&gt;The table cards were Q,Q,9,9,4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All four suits were on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player one had Q,3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player two had 9,8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which player wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6319" LastEditorUserId="267" LastEditDate="2013-12-11T18:16:37.817" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T00:32:03.303" Title="Who has the winning hand in Texas-holdem (different full house hands)" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-01-14T01:55:51.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13738" CreationDate="2013-12-11T04:58:18.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The game ends immediately after someone has 40+ intel points.&lt;/strong&gt; You must have a different version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thoughtprocess.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/rules_08_PnP1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;. The copy on the playtheagents website states twice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Goal&lt;/strong&gt; - Your goal is simple - to be the first player to reach 40 intel points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reminder&lt;/strong&gt;: the first person to reach 40 intel points, wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no mention of ending the game only on a players turn when they have 40+ intel points, nor requiring all players to have the same number of turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T04:58:18.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13743" CreationDate="2013-12-11T05:17:58.473" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;QQQ99 wins over QQ999, so Player 1 gets it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When comparing two full-houses, the higher triple wins; if both players have the same triple then the higher pair wins. If both players have the same triple and the same pair, then they split the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all suits are equal in Poker - the ranking of suits from games such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/bridge&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt; and Five Hundred have no bearing on evaluating Poker hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2018-11-18T00:32:03.303" LastActivityDate="2018-11-18T00:32:03.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13737" CreationDate="2013-12-11T05:23:15.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, the command would still face the same player&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://thoughtprocess.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/rules_08_PnP1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state the following on the very last page, FAQ section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When swapping two Agents, their orientation must remain the same! I.e. players cannot turn Agents when swapping them. For example, &lt;strong&gt;if an Agent‘s command was facing you before the swap, it must still be facing you after the swap.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards only have two orientations, Commands towards you or data-token halves towards you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Agent card features a command giving the player a special ability. When placing an Agent onto a Faction, you choose whether to face the command towards yourself or towards another player. [...] The other end of the card features data-token halves (either black or white). When these halves are joined together, they award intel points to whomever their arrows are facing. &lt;strong&gt;Your decision when placing a card on a Faction, therefore, is in which direction to place the card - whether to keep the command for yourself, or try to give yourself intel points by completing data tokens.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to preserve orientation if you move an agent to a non-adjacent faction, since a non-adjacent faction would not be shared by player it was being moved into. The only way for such a card to exist would likely be if you were allowed to turn the agents orientation to whichever way you wished after moving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T05:23:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13736" CreationDate="2013-12-11T05:53:25.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Missions score at the end of your turn, after taking actions such as playing agents.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although &lt;strong&gt;reveal&lt;/strong&gt; isn't defined in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://thoughtprocess.me/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/rules_08_PnP1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, they do use it in the context of revealing cards from your hand. You cannot reveal an agent unless it is in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moral High Ground:&lt;/strong&gt; {1} for each killing or turning agent you reveal from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Turn Sequence&lt;/strong&gt; section states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turn Sequence&lt;/strong&gt; - On each player’s turn, they have to perform 2 actions. Players can select from any combination of the following (including performing the same action twice);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Playing an Agent [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Re-activating a Command [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Buying an Agent or Mission: [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Trade in a Mission [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of their turn, the player whose turn it is collects their intel points from their Factions and Missions. Players collect intel points from their Factions and Missions each turn as long as the data-tokens remain complete on their Factions and &lt;strong&gt;the conditions of the Missions remain fulfilled.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the conditions of the mission don't say when they must be fulfilled, I would argue that all the other mission conditions require checking at the end of the turn, so should this one. (You might also argue that to fulfill the conditions, you must continue to reveal the killing/turning agents until the end of turn, or you stop fulfilling the conditions. I.e. You are no longer &lt;strong&gt;revealing&lt;/strong&gt; them.) Scoring of Missions also repeats the conditions must be fulfilled at the end of turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring Intel Points&lt;/strong&gt; - Intel points are awarded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to players who have completed arrows facing them in their Factions at the end of their turn,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when the &lt;strong&gt;condition of a Mission is fulfilled&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of their turn,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;to players towards whom the points are directed when a Free Agent is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-11T17:11:57.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13734" CreationDate="2013-12-11T08:08:29.603" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First and foremost, the goal is to solve mysteries.  Thus, you first thought should be &quot;How can I further that?&quot;  Otherwise, here is an ordered list of potential good moves: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solve the current mystery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve any active rumour -- This might be number 0 (zero) depending on how awful the rumour consequences are...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get clues.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Close gates -- thus fight monsters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get an expedition encounter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do whatever benefits your character right now: resources, rest, prepare for travel, whatever...  This depends on your current set up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on a limited set of games (probably a few dozen or more) but helped by the statistics found in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that none of the expansions (I have them all) have so far altered this ranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T08:43:29.430" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T08:43:29.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13798" CreationDate="2013-12-11T11:34:55.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a solid strategy that you can apply to increase the chances of a win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T22:49:27.013" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T22:49:27.013" Title="What is a solid basic strategy for surviving Ghost Story" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13446" CreationDate="2013-12-11T19:32:45.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the absence of any published clarifications from the publisher or game designer, I think the rules for any game should be taken as literally as possible, unless doing so &quot;breaks&quot; the game and there is a more reasonable way to interpret them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, should all players agree to a modification of the rules &lt;strong&gt;prior to the start of the game&lt;/strong&gt; and it isn't some sort of &quot;tournament&quot; play, then the agreed on house rules will supersede the normal rules.  It is your gaming groups luxury to play how you wish. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's take a look at the turn order from King of Tokyo rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling and rerolling the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolving the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buying cards (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the King of Tokyo Power Up! rules (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a monster &lt;strong&gt;ends his rolls&lt;/strong&gt; with at least 3{Heart}, he draws the top Evolution of his &#xA;  deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this all hinges on when the rolls end. For me, rolls are clearly performed in stage 1, and the rolls would end before stage 2 starts.  As such, this is where the rules indicate you should draw the evolution card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following question was raised in the comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;2. Resolving the Dice - The symbols you get at the end of your rolling step are the actions for this turn.&quot; You don't get the benefit of any die faces until you resolve the dice in the 2nd step, why would evolutions be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fallacious reasoning.  Nowhere in the rules does it say that &quot;you don't get the benefit of any die faces until you resolve the dice in the 2nd step.&quot; It simply says that the symbols are your actions and the actions are resolved in stage 2.  A player doesn't take the rolls into the resolution stage, they take the symbols (and the actions they indicate) into the resolution stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing the evolution card is not an &quot;action&quot; as defined by the rules nor is it coupled to performing actions. Evidence that the drawing of the evolution card is decoupled from actions can be found directly in the Power Up! rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The hearts do not need to to be used to regain life, and a player can even use the hearts &#xA;  to draw an Evolution when in Tokyo. The card does not replace healing, the card is in addition to any healing that would normally occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I take from the above rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can draw the card whether or not you can make use of the healing action.  Said another way, even when in Tokyo where the {Heart} symbols would otherwise provide no action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can draw the card whether or not you choose to make use of the healing action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The drawing of the card does not replace the healing action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, drawing the evolution card has nothing at all to do with the healing action itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving on to if you can play the evolution card on the same turn, this is what the rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monsters keep their evolutions secret until they want to play them – which can be at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no mention of not being able to play the card the turn you draw it, so when they say anytime, you should be able to play it immediately if you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this reasoning, in respect to your specific questions, here is how they should be interpreted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt;: you can play anytime (for instance before you resolve the dice roll).  But to get the effect, you would need to play it &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; your opponent yields, but not after he/she does.  Once they yield Tokyo, you now control it so playing the card afterward won't provide the effect this turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alpha Male&lt;/strong&gt;: if you play it and attack this turn, it will provide the effect this turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chest Thumping&lt;/strong&gt;: yes, you can use it to force your opponent to yield Tokyo.  You would need to use this when you attack (there is no point if your opponent has already yielded).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Jungle Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt;: you could play it this turn if you did attack and didn't take control of Tokyo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Addressing the point made by user1873 regarding Gigazaur's Gamma Breath/Saurian Adaptability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to this, I was representing (at the very least in my own head) the evolution draw as somewhat of an added stage in the turn (say 1.5).  I haven't sat down with the rules and all the cards to try to figure out every nuance, but it would have been more clear and accurate to say the draw take place in stage 1, following the rolls but before stage 1 ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to modify the results of the final roll indicates the game creators have already allowed for game play to take place in stage 1 after the final roll but before stage 1 ends.  So I would take this as stage 1 doesn't end until stage 2 starts (i.e. the player moves on to start resolving his actions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows for Gamma Breath to function (ignoring whether it is on the same turn played or in future turns).  If stage 1 were to end with the final physical dice roll, there we be no way to use this mutation within the rules as pointed out by user1873.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also then allows for the evolution card draw as well as being able to play evolution cards at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastEditorUserId="6279" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T08:43:42.120" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T08:43:42.120" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-11T23:32:13.657" Score="2" ViewCount="6054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hibernation%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Hibernation Sliver&lt;/a&gt; in play which states that all slivers have &amp;quot;Pay 2 life: Return this permanent to its owner's hand.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have slivers in my graveyard. Can I pay 2 life and return a sliver card to my hand from my graveyard and if I can't, why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6327" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T01:28:03.367" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T16:15:24.570" Title="Can I use Hibernation Sliver to return slivers from my graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13753" CreationDate="2013-12-11T23:44:49.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for 2 reasons. First, because unless they say otherwise, abilities of permanents only function while they are on the battlefield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. &#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt; The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the exceptions relate to the ability in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Slivers that are in your graveyard will not even get that ability in the first place. When a card says &quot;All Slivers&quot;, it refers to all Sliver permanents, and a permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.2. Effects apply only to permanents unless the instruction’s text states otherwise or they clearly can &#xA;  apply only to objects in one or more other zones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; An effect that changes all lands into creatures won’t alter land cards in players’ &#xA;  graveyards. But an effect that says spells cost more to cast will apply only to spells on the &#xA;  stack, since a spell is always on the stack while a player is casting it.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T16:15:24.570" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T16:15:24.570" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13713" CreationDate="2013-12-12T02:04:07.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Time&lt;/em&gt; limit and patience for the experienced player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the experience player limits self to 15 to 30 seconds per play and is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; patient with new players, the game levels without house or extensive rule changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For new players to get-into-the-game, competition is not needed so much as enjoyment.  For a seasoned competitor, obliging a quick play (and maybe forgoing QI &amp;amp; ZA) is a challenge.  The senior player should not look up words, but tolerate first timer's usage of such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other limitations require the senior playing with 5 or 6 or letting others play with 8 or 9.  (I prefer the limits (time, tile count) on the experienced player rather than mess up the fundamentals for the new player.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13173/what-is-a-fair-scrabble-handicap&quot;&gt;Jolenealaska&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5570" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T02:10:05.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13757" CreationDate="2013-12-12T11:15:53.357" Score="0" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, in Omaha, a player must use exactly two hole cards and three communal cards when selecting the best hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'em Poker, it is possible to use only the communal cards without using any hole cards, if the communal cards alone give the best hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is Omaha different from Texas Hold'em, in the sense that an exact number of hole cards must be used in Omaha?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6331" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2013-12-12T13:11:16.830" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T13:11:16.830" Title="In Omaha Poker, can we use 0,1,3 or 4 hole cards when selecting the best 5 cards?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-12-21T18:30:23.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13756" CreationDate="2013-12-12T13:04:35.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer you title question: No. You are obliged to use 2 and only 2 of your hole cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are main 2 differences between Texas Hold'em and Omaha Hold'em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of hole cards you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of hold cards you must use to create your final hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'em you get 2 hole cards dealt to you, but are not required to use any of them to form your final 5 card hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Omaha Hold'em you get 4 hole cards dealt to you, but are required to use 2 (and only 2) of them when forming your final 5 card hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T13:04:35.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13765" CreationDate="2013-12-12T23:02:43.290" Score="1" ViewCount="503" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Standard (Return to Ravnica, M14, and the first Theros set), a friend of mine is currently working with a tri-color RGB deck heavy on control via spot destruction: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreadbore&quot;&gt;Dreadbore&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ultimate%20Price&quot;&gt;Ultimate Price&lt;/a&gt;, and other cards that follow the format of &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Destroy target X&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between those cards, said friend can fairly effectively keep our side of the board clear and pave the way for a powerful mid- to late-game creature (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polukranos%2C%20World%20Eater&quot;&gt;Polukranos, World Eater&lt;/a&gt;, which doubles as another destroyer) to end the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategies are generally effective against destruction-focused control decks like this? (Bonus points for strategies currently viable in Standard)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T08:34:10.527" Title="What strategies are effective against a spot destruction deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4447" CreationDate="2013-12-12T23:52:51.037" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My father, a patient loving man, taught me cribbage at an early age pre teen... He would share strategies and odds, even when I was much older...  I dare say that our family lived by this rule.  Although I never heard of playing where it doesn't apply to the crib... then again never met anyone that even knew of the rule or way of playing (excluding family of course).  Never heard of Muggins either as we always helped count hands in our family...  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For us &quot;it&quot; was called Go Back 19 and applied only to when counting hand or crib (aka box)so just when counting cards after all 8 cards were played out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 4 cards in crib &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; hand, plus card turned over = 0 you simply go back 19... no exclusions... even if the jack is turned over at the cut you were not saved.  Pegging during play does not save you either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having it apply to the crib, makes for a way more conscience effort to not go for broke or reconsider throwing away a pair in opponents crib. Certainly makes you think way more when crib is at risk. IMO not having it apply in crib is limiting the true nature of how devastating and fun the rule is lol &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6336" LastActivityDate="2013-12-12T23:52:51.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T05:56:19.660" Score="5" ViewCount="3901" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Any player (even those not involved in the battle) may discard&#xA;Missile(s) after dice are rolled, but before troops are removed.&#xA;For each Missile discarded in this way, the player can change&#xA;one die in the combat roll to an unmodifiable 6. A player may&#xA;discard multiple Missiles to change multiple dice per battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may discard Missiles in any order and may respond to&#xA;another player using a Missile by using a second (or more). If&#xA;two or more players are trying to play a Missile at the same time,&#xA;priority goes to the current player (attacker), then the defender,&#xA;then each player clockwise around the table from the attacker.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions here really first, &quot;unmodifiable 6&quot; (1)does that mean it can only be a 6? and(2) does that prevent another missile from &quot;modifying&quot; it to something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play with a group who has routinely messed this up either way. For instance a single die was changed from 6 to 1 and back again several times just last week. If it gets changed to a 6 it can't change back according to the rule I read. But I am only one at a table of 5. Any help in this would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6338" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T15:05:55.780" Title="Missile rule clarification" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13762" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:09:02.453" Score="1" ViewCount="4157" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are both new to MTG. He will attack me, and when I decide to take the hit and roll back my life, he then likes to attack me a second time. This doesn't feel right to me, is this allowed? Can he hit me twice after I've blocked or taken the hits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6339" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T06:46:45.530" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T11:55:32.397" Title="Can you attack again after I decide not to block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13763" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:13:41.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the manufacturer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many fell putting an end to the reign of terror of Wu-Feng Lord of the&#xA;  Nine Hells. The funerary urn housing his ashes was buried in the&#xA;  cemetery of a village in the Middle Empire. Years have passed and the&#xA;  cursed legacy has been forgotten by the living. Hidden away in Hell&#xA;  Wu-Feng has forgotten nothing. His incessant research allowed him to&#xA;  locate the receptacle. The shadow of his former incarnation already&#xA;  extends to the villagers who are unaware of the danger threatening&#xA;  them. Fortunately the Fat-Si (Taoist priests) keep watch guarding the&#xA;  border between the dead and the living. Armed with their courage their&#xA;  faith and their powers they will try to return the reincarnation of&#xA;  Wu-Feng to Hell. Ghost Stories is a cooperative game. The players play&#xA;  as a team against the game. Either they share a common victory or&#xA;  suffer the same defeat. Ghost Stories provides 4 levels of difficulty:&#xA;  Initiation, Normal, Nightmare, and Hell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T02:48:58.423" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T02:48:58.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13764" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:13:41.573" Score="0" Body="Ghost Story is a cooperative game where the players try to stop ghosts (and their master) from taking a city over." OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2013-12-15T02:48:47.830" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T02:48:47.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13759" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:23:59.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's best against spot removal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The absolute best decks against decks packed with spot removal is decks without any (good) targets for them. This will make those cards dead or bad draws. So how do you do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play a deck without creatures&lt;/strong&gt;. Maybe you can build a combo-, planeswalker- or mill-deck without creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creatures with hexproof, shroud or other protection&lt;/strong&gt;. Their spells can't hit them, so they're useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Low values targets&lt;/strong&gt;. Tokens and creatures with CITP effects comes to mind. It's not fun playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreadbore&quot;&gt;Dreadbore&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt; token or on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Venser%2C%20Shaper%20Savant&quot;&gt;Venser, Shaper Savant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case: Is anyone playing control decks? The deck you describe tend to have a quite rough time against those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T08:34:10.527" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T08:34:10.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13762" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:35:53.267" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this is not correct. You usually only have one combat phase (There are exceptions using cards that give additional combat phases.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine this is not the case and you don't have any blockers. Then you could be dead on turn 2 by a 1/1 creature attacking as many times as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T08:35:53.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13762" CreationDate="2013-12-13T08:41:05.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can only attack once per turn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain cards that give you a second attack, but normally, one attack per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are new to Magic, you should have a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook (pdf)&lt;/a&gt; on the Magic &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;rules website&lt;/a&gt;. It contains all the essential info to get you started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you encounter situations not quite covered there, you can always check back here, or try to figure it out yourself in the Comprehensive Rulebook (don't use that one to start out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T08:41:05.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T10:18:28.693" Score="0" ViewCount="1580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana gained from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boseiju%2C%20Who%20Shelters%20All&quot;&gt;Boseiju, Who Shelters All&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hall%20of%20the%20Bandit%20Lord&quot;&gt;Hall of the Bandit Lord&lt;/a&gt; grant an ability to various spell types if it's used to pay for them. Are there similar, ability-granting effects for non-mana costs? I don't mean things like Devour, Devour is an ability that has nothing to do with costs; I ask specifically about costs in the rules sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T14:52:49.030" Title="Are there more cards like Boseiju, Who Shelters All for non-mana costs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2013-12-17T01:34:00.157" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13697" CreationDate="2013-12-13T10:51:49.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a convention called &quot;exclusion blackwood&quot; (some call it &quot;voidwood&quot;). This way you can ask for aces, excluding one suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This call can be made by bidding your void suit, in a level above your fit suit, provided that a fit has been found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, all bids (4s,5c,5d) are exclusion blackwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner can respond in steps, just like steps on 4NT(depends whether you play standard, blackwood, 1430RKCB, 3014RKCB etc). No matter what kind of blackwood you play, you will get your desired info (this is the two round aces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/exclusion_keycard_blackwood.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for a variation of exclusion blackwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T10:51:49.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13768" CreationDate="2013-12-13T10:58:37.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe you mean something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicken&quot;&gt;Quicken&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Savage Summoning&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T10:58:37.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13768" CreationDate="2013-12-13T13:00:35.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22mana+is+spent%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;No&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For stuff that modifies spells more generally, search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22that+spell%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;that spell&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22those+spells%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;those spells&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. You could also search &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22target+spell%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;target spell&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, but that's mostly going to turn up counterspells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-13T14:52:49.030" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T14:52:49.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13761" CreationDate="2013-12-13T15:05:55.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Missiles change a die into a '6' only. A missile can never modify a die to anything else.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a non-spoilerific example might clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An attack roll on a &lt;strong&gt;Ammo Shortage&lt;/strong&gt; territory is 6,5,1 versus a defense roll of 5,5. The defender's high die is reduced by 1 because of the Ammo Shortage's -1 modifier making their roll 5,4. The defender uses a missile on the '4' making it an unmodifable '6' (Ammo Shortage can no longer affect it), and the attacker loses 2 troops instead of the defender (6,5,1 vs 6,5 after missile instead of 6,5,1 vs 5,4 before missile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T15:05:55.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-13T17:25:40.103" Score="5" ViewCount="656" Body="&lt;p&gt;Such a system might be too complex for a human to consistently/safely implement, but I am curious if they exist. I am imagining a system where your choice of suit or rank to lead or follow with could convey additional information mid-hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T22:36:08.760" Title="Are there any bridge systems where cards played convey deeper information in a manner similar to bidding systems?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13030" CreationDate="2013-12-13T19:54:53.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that Jungle Speed uses 80x80mm cards with rounded corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="267" LastActivityDate="2013-12-13T19:54:53.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13773" CreationDate="2013-12-13T23:16:45.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a starter, it is obvious that such signalling only applies on defence - Declarer has no need to communicate with his partner (Dummy), and such communication is anyways illegal. Let's start with the basic defensive systems and progress from there.&#xA; All of these are perfectly legal when fully explained to the opponents (except some of the more complex techniques are restricted in limited-master-point events).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Basic Signals:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lead highest of touching honours (except King from Ace-King) either at the top of a suit or from an interior broken sequence; fourth-best from length; highest of a doubleton; low to show interest in having the suit lead back and high to deny interest in having the suit lead back; Lead high for partner to rough asking for a higher-ranked side-suit lead back an low to ask for a lower-ranked side-suit lead back.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow in trumps high-low on first two rounds to show a 3rd trump &lt;strong&gt;and interest in a rough&lt;/strong&gt;; follow high-low to partner's lead suit to express interest in continuation, low-high to ask for a switch; follow high-low in other suits lead by Declarer to show an even number, low-high to show an odd number; Follow high-low as suit preference for a higher-ranked side-suit and low-high as suit preference for a lower-ranked side-suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will of course notice that many of these are contradictory or ambiguous - that is the cost of asking a very restricted language to convey a rich amount of information. Established partnerships discuss the priority of these signals at great length, but the general gist is (usually): Attitude first; Count once attitude is known; Suit-preference once count is known, &lt;strong&gt;or when obligatory&lt;/strong&gt;. Deciphering that consistently with your partner is one of the most highly rewarded skills in Bridge, as most of your opponents are so very bad at it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More complex signals involve adding a mixture of these variations to the basic scheme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second-highest from touching honours. Sometimes only at the top; sometimes only from interior sequence (&lt;em&gt;Coded 9's &amp;amp; 10's&lt;/em&gt;); sometimes both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upside-Down signals - reversing the meaning of high-low and low-high sequences;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Odd-Even signaling - replacing high-low and low-high combinations with the play of either an odd-spot or an even-spot, sometimes combining attitude with suit-preference so that an odd-spot encourages; a low-even spot asks for a lower side-suit switch; and a high-even spot asks for a higher side-suit switch. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Round-the-corner suit preference in place of absolute suit-preference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all I can recall off the top of my head, but I have seen attempts to play even more unusual combinations. Myself, I don't think the benefit is worth the risk of a disaster from misunderstanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;With some exceptions, any partnership agreement on the meaning of a legal call made or card played, or sequence of such, that is well explained in advance of the round/match to the opponents is legal. The exceptions generally cover methods deemed too complex, in the context of the competition being held, for the opponents to defend and understand. Generally there are few restrictions in 10-day World Team Championships, and very many in 3 hours novice match-point games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section on &lt;strong&gt;Carding&lt;/strong&gt; on each chart of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Convention-Chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;current ACBL Convention Charts&lt;/a&gt; explains the defensive carding systems allowed or disallowed for the corresponding class of competitions held under the aegis of the &lt;strong&gt;American Contract Bridge League&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2 - Partnership Agreements&lt;/strong&gt;:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re Duplicate Bridge: see Law 40 in Section 6, pages 48-52 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;re Contract Bridge: see Laws 16 (page 10) and 40 (page 20); Proprieties Points 2 (page 45) and 4 (page 47) of &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/laws/rlaws/lawofcontractbridgecombined_2004.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laws of Contract Bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #3&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/ConventionCard.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A sample Convention Card (pdf) as approved for ACBL sanctioned events.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-12-14T22:36:08.760" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T22:36:08.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13773" CreationDate="2013-12-14T14:50:42.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition there is PRISM signals which with some bidding understanding can give  the shape of your partner's hand from his plays. Its somewhat complicated.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://prismsignals.com/PrismSignals.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://prismsignals.com/PrismSignals.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5962" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T14:50:42.530" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13780" CreationDate="2013-12-14T18:01:04.677" Score="14" ViewCount="24469" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are dozens of cards that turn land into creatures, but are there any cards that turn creatures into land ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T19:14:22.487" Title="Are there any cards that turn creatures into land?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13762" CreationDate="2013-12-14T18:17:05.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As most have pointed out, there is only 1 attack phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception would be if a card explicitly states a second combat phase, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aurelia%2C%20the%20Warleader&quot;&gt;Aurelia, the Warleader&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Aurelia, the Warleader attacks for the first time each turn, untap all creatures you control. After this phase, there is an additional combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6343" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T07:50:59.423" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T07:50:59.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13773" CreationDate="2013-12-14T19:27:00.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards played constitute signals, and there are several basic types. For the partner of the leader, they include the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Signal_%28bridge%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;following.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attitude signals refer to playing a high spot card on a lead to show that you like the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Count signals were better discussed in Pieter's post. Briefly, one example is playing high-low in a no trump contract to show an even number of cards, and low-high to show an odd number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suit preference signals are made when leading back a suit that is not a trump suit. Besides the main suit and the trump suit, there are two side suits. A high preference lead means &quot;I have an entry in the higher side suit.&quot; A low lead for preference means, &quot;I have an entry in the lower side suit.&quot; One expert suggested using an intermediate card to signal neither a preference in the high or low side suit, meaning that trumps should be led. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the leader, there are several &quot;conventions.&quot; The most common ones are &quot;top of a sequence&quot; if you have a sequence of at least three, or three out of four, and &quot;fourth best,&quot; from a long suit in which you have no sequence. &quot;Top of nothing&quot; is a common &quot;passive&quot; lead when the leader is &quot;playing not to lose&quot; (tricks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-12-14T19:27:00.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13777" CreationDate="2013-12-14T19:35:40.377" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four cards that explicitly turn creatures into lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20and%20Limb&quot;&gt;Life and Limb&lt;/a&gt; makes all Saprolings Forests.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Song%20of%20the%20Dryads&quot;&gt;Song of the Dryads&lt;/a&gt; turns any single permanent into a Forest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Imprisoned%20in%20the%20Moon&quot;&gt;Imprisoned in the Moon&lt;/a&gt; turns any creature, land, or planeswalker into a land with no subtype that can only tap for {C}.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashaya%2C%20Soul%20of%20the%20Wild&quot;&gt;Ashaya, Soul of the Wild&lt;/a&gt; turns all creatures you control into forests.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there are 4 cards that can make arbitrary creatures copies of specific creature permanents: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cytoshape&quot;&gt;Cytoshape&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infinite%20Reflection&quot;&gt;Infinite Reflection&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Echoing%20Equation&quot;&gt;Echoing Equation&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirrorweave&quot;&gt;Mirrorweave&lt;/a&gt;. If you make a land into a creature (with a card with Awaken, for example), and then cast one of those spells targeting that land, the other creature(s) will become copies of the land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, any creature that enters the battlefield as a copy of a creature permanent (i.e. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;) or can become a copy of a creature permanent (i.e. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shapesharer&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt;), can become a copy of an animated land, which will result in it being just a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="22171" LastEditDate="2021-05-05T19:14:22.487" LastActivityDate="2021-05-05T19:14:22.487" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13793" CreationDate="2013-12-15T10:36:23.687" Score="7" ViewCount="7717" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules states that you cannot have two of the same conditions.  You can take a debt condition to gain two additional successes on your influence test to gain assets from the reserve. Thus if you already have a debt, does that mean that you automatically gain two additional successes for each gain asset actions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:26:31.047" Title="Debt condition abuse?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2013-12-15T11:55:46.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At board game expositions like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.merz-verlag.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spiel Essen&lt;/a&gt;, they sell game pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T11:55:46.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13785" CreationDate="2013-12-15T15:30:32.690" Score="4" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have a hand like (s) KJx (h) xxx (d)Axxx (c) xxx, sitting &quot;West.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (Standard American) bidding has been S 1 spade, N 2 hearts, S 2 spades N 4 spades. You and partner have passed so far, and E and S pass to you. Vulnerability is equal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A book I read opined that this is a good time to double because &quot;finesses were wrong for declarer.&quot; You have a minor spade tenace behind declarer, declarer did not support dummy's hearts, meaning your partner has &quot;some.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I count two trump tricks and one side trick in your hand; one heart trick and one other side trick for partner, a potential two-trick &quot;set.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this, in fact, a good time to double? Or are there reasons against doubling that I've overlooked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T14:12:17.110" Title="Is &quot;finesses wrong for declarer&quot; a good reason to double a (bridge) contract?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13784" CreationDate="2013-12-15T16:13:14.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good question. One caveat to what you mention is that with every losing finesse by declarer you are potentially endplayed. If the defensive strength is predominantly in one hand, best not to double; make declarer guess whether the endplay is on or not, as  he may have alternative lines that fail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, there are only specific circumstances in which it is correct to double for a one-trick set. As a double is so informative that Declarer can often play the hand one trick better, double only when you expect to set the contract at least two tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, only double when the correct opening lead is already obvious (to you or partner, as the case might be). Opponents who double and then agonize over the opening lead have put themselves in the pickling jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best known (and most common) counter-example to this is in matchpoints when the opponents are vulnerable in a partial that rates to give you a bad board even if it goes down one undoubled. In that case one doubles to try and get +200, as the last hope to save the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2023-09-07T14:12:17.110" LastActivityDate="2023-09-07T14:12:17.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13784" CreationDate="2013-12-15T17:38:32.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to what Peter said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should double a contract if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's unlikely to go down if you don't. (Lead-directing doubles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What you stand to gain if it goes down outweighs what you stand to lose if it doesn't, remembering that your double is going to help declarer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is situation #2, and there are no hard and fast rules to apply here. You need to listen to the auction, and figure out how many tricks you expect them to go down, then compare the value of that to what they get if they make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the hand you give, you expect them to down one at most, and that's &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; partner produces a trick, which is far from a guarantee, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you take all of your potential tricks, which is far from certain. (This isn't a weak auction. A delayed game raise like this should be showing actual spade support and a heart suit worth showing. If you find as little as S Qxx H AKxxx in dummy, you are going to be very unhappy with your double.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Why You Lose At Bridge&lt;/em&gt;, by SJ Simon, has a lot of useful advice on this subject (and many others).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T17:38:32.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13784" CreationDate="2013-12-15T17:39:41.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On this particular hand, North rates to have 3 spades, 5 hearts, and no minor-suit shortness to go along with minimum game-forcing values. If North's hand is xxx KJxxx Kx KQx, then you can safely exit a heart every time you're on lead, likely taking one or two hearts, two spades, and a diamond (Note that this is a hand that stretched to make game, and even this dummy may allow declarer to make, e.g. when holding AQTxxx -void- QJxx Axx).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, dummy shows up with Qxx AKQJx Qx xxx, you're in trouble. Your opening heart lead may have given declarer a chance to pitch two quick minor-suit losers, and you're only taking one trump trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a reason not to double with this hand is this: On the auction, partner probably has two important cards. It would be surprising for partner to have two aces, and if one of their cards is the diamond king or queen, it's probably being picked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the odds for doubling in various situations. This table gives scoring form on the left (total points and international matchpoints), and vulnerability on the top. In each box is W/L/P, where W is the score gained when doubling and defeating the contract with one undertrick (vs not doubling), L is the score lost when letting 4Sx make with no overtricks (vs 4S undoubled making), and P is the probability that you defeat the contract by one to make doubling a worthwhile action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|    |      NV      |      V        |&#xA;| TP | +50/-170/77% | +100/-170/63% |&#xA;|IMPS|  +2/-5/71%   |   +3/-5/63%   |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At matchpoints, of course, if everyone is in 4S, you need a 50% chance of setting or better to make doubling worthwhile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course this is a simplification; it doesn't take into account the chance of taking two undertricks or the opponents making with an overtrick. On this hand, I haven't done any simulations but I would say that you certainly won't defeat opponents on three deals out of four, and probably not on two deals out of three, but may one deal out of two; I would consider doubling when playing matchpoints but not at other forms of scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-12-15T17:39:41.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-15T20:36:06.133" Score="4" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects on the Anti-Matter race card seem somewhat unclear; the net effect seems to be that each side in an encounter wants to play a low attack card in order to win. This means that more ships still increases your chance to win (since they subtract rather than add to the attack card). However, the Warrior card says to 'add' to their final total depending on how many accrued tokens they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that the Warrior race becomes more and more ineffective against the Anti-Matter over time, until it effectively cannot win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6349" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T02:39:05.710" Title="Warrior vs Antimatter" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13789" CreationDate="2013-12-16T02:39:05.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. (As Anti-Matter's opponent, anyway. As an ally, Warrior is just fine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-Matter's power isn't so much unclear as kind of complicated:&#xA; - Anti-Matter's tokens subtract.&#xA; - Ally tokens subtract.&#xA; - Opposing main player's tokens add.&#xA; - Low total wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you think Warrior's bad against Anti-Matter, spare some sympathy for the poor Virus. (No? Not really surprising.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T02:39:05.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13792" CreationDate="2013-12-16T02:46:29.583" Score="13" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a board game designer with the luxury of a large public playing area filled with board game enthusiasts. I would like to beta test a new board game and was wondering what YOU, as the player, would consider a successful session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've already seen the posts on how to run a session from a technical, or designer's perspective (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4948/i-have-an-idea-for-a-card-game-how-can-i-best-start-testing-it&quot;&gt;I have an idea for a card game. How can I best start testing it?&lt;/a&gt;). I would like to focus on what makes for a fun session for the player. For example, are you looking for polished, illustrated gaming pieces? Pizza and soda? Do you prefer the game guru (me) answer questions as you go or sit back and let you figure them out on your own? How long should a typical session last? What would you want in return?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you answer, please mention if you've done beta playtesting before and what your experience has been. I would also love to know if you have experience running these kinds of sessions. Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2020-05-01T15:55:14.260" Title="What are the qualities of a successful beta testing session from the player's perspective?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13791" CreationDate="2013-12-16T04:07:15.907" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/13025/rob-herman&quot;&gt;Designer&lt;/a&gt; and sometimes attendee at design group &lt;a href=&quot;https://sites.google.com/site/bogadesignandprototype/&quot;&gt;BOGA DAP&lt;/a&gt; here. I'll share my personal experiences and preferences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a tester, to feel good about the event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, I prefer the game to be taught as if you were teaching an already-published game. If you are getting a blind playtest, or testing the ability of players to learn from a rulebook, then I expect the game to be 99% done and the instructions to be as clear as you can make them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have specific questions about the game you want answered, in terms of balance or how a mechanism works or how it feels or whatever, let me know. In a playtest game, I am not averse to you changing the rules mid-game if you want to try something out or the rules aren't working.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have no expectations at all in terms of graphic polish or illustration. An unpolished prototype is a sign that you are not emotionally invested in the game as it is and are open to feedback and changes. Even going so far as a deliberately sketched-in look-and-feel can be helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I expect you to respect my time. I play games for fun all the time, so if the game is fun or at least interesting, I don't need a food bribe. I do want you to be willing to playtest my games as well, and I want you to make appropriate changes or pull the plug if it ends up not working or not being fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1-2 hours, with time on the end to ask for feedback, makes a good playtesting session for most games. An early playtest (where we expect to pull the plug quickly and go back and make changes) might end up being shorter, or a test for a very short game. I don't expect to play a medium-or-longer game more than once in a sitting. Unless the game was a smash hit, I expect you to take it back for at least a few changes before we play again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a designer, to get the most out of a playtest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to observe the game, rather than playing it yourself, unless you are needed to fill up the player count. This lets you pay more attention to both the game and the players and how they're acting and feeling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tell the players what you changed since the last iteration of the prototype. If it's not obvious whether it worked or not, ask the players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the game, ask each player what they liked and didn't like. This is tricky. On one hand, never defend your game. If a player gives a criticism that you feel is invalid, ask yourself what you might be able to change to mitigate the perception of the problem - whether in the rules or the explanation. On the other hand, you will need to pass by many suggestions, since they will not lead your game in the direction you want it to go in. Not every game is meant for every player. Criticism might just be telling you who the best audience for your game is.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T04:07:15.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13782" CreationDate="2013-12-16T04:24:33.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have ANY condition (whether it be debt, or a dark pact, or hallucinations), you cannot gain it again while it is in play.  So, if you take a debt (getting 2 additional &quot;bucks&quot; or influence for that purchase), on any subsequent turn while you are still in debt you cannot do that again or get the bonus.  It only happens once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on a later turn, you are able to rid yourself of your debt (e.g., through its reckoning event), you can take on another debt to get the 2 additional bucks for another purchase.  But this is only available if you can clear the previous debt condition, since you only get the 2 bucks when you gain the condition card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The official ruling is found in the Reference Guide on p. 4 under the &quot;Conditions&quot; header: &quot;An investigator cannot have multiple copies of the same Condition. If he would gain a Condition that he already has a copy of, he does not gain another copy of that Condition.&quot; and &quot;If a Condition’s effect does not list a limit, it may only be used once per instance of the triggered event.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is probably discussed in the manual too, but I find it is easier to look things up in the Reference Guide, generally speaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above should be understood in conjunction with the Bank Loan text on the board: &quot;When performing an Acquire Assets action, you may gain a Debt Condition to immediately add 2 successes to your test result&quot;.  Again, you can only gain a condition you don't have so this only triggers once, when you gain the debt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2013-12-16T16:58:03.657" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T16:58:03.657" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4220" CreationDate="2013-12-16T07:10:47.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I agree with Aryabhata about the given hand, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; possible in more-or-less standard bidding to bid opponents' suit naturally. For instance, consider the auction 1C-X-1H-2H. In this case, partner promises either heart support or a very strong hand. Responder only promises a 4-card heart suit and not much in terms of values (responder may have 5 hearts, but is limited in terms of values by the failure to redouble). Advancer is showing a good 5- or 6-card heart suit and less than limit-raise values. Because of responder's bid, advancer knows that finesses in the trump suit are likely to be on; because of opener's bid and overcaller's values, advancer knows that finesses in the side suits are also likely to be on. The hand almost plays itself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T07:10:47.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13791" CreationDate="2013-12-16T07:22:12.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've playtested games for a couple of friends (one at various early iterations, one in a near-finished state). What I'm looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete rules (even if they may go through more iterations). It's frustrating to have a rules question that is not answered by the booklet because it is intentionally incomplete. On the other hand, unintentional oversights are fine (that's why we play test!).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detail and finish on the play elements are unnecessary; I've used Lego blocks and random coins as tokens during play tests.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No hovering by the designer. As sitnaltax mentioned, it's probably best if the designer doesn't play. The designer should be available for questions, and observing is fine, but looking over players' shoulders at their cards, etc, is to be avoided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For long games (e.g. targeting 90-120 or 150+ plays), a single playthrough is likely best. I'm happy to spend a few afternoons on various iterations, but playing for 4 hours in one sitting can be rough. You might even consider pulling out specific subgames if you're looking to balance rules so that you can have multiple playthroughs of the endgame, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compensation: Pizza and soda, snacks, etc are probably fine. Playtesters should probably get a mention in the final rulebook (there's often an acknowledgements section); it's best if it can be by name but it could be something like &quot;and the Boston gamer's group who helped test early versions of this game.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T07:22:12.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13797" CreationDate="2013-12-16T07:33:24.337" Score="6" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, I played with &lt;em&gt;The Dragon, the Fairy and the Princess&lt;/em&gt; for the first time. We came upon a situation that wasn't completely clear in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if there's an almost completed city, with one of Alice's followers in it, and Bob completes that city on his turn, with a Princess tile (which removes a knight from the city the tile is added to)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Alice's knight removed, after which the city's score goes to nobody, or does Alice get the points, after which the Princess has no knight left to remove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found an answer which I'll add below, but I'd like to hear your input as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T13:10:01.717" Title="What's the order of scoring when completing a city with a Princess?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13796" CreationDate="2013-12-16T07:33:24.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer I found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/326644/princess-closing-a-city-and-removing-a-knight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek.com&lt;/a&gt; divides the turn into three phases:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw and place tile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place and move meeple (place or remove follower, move dragon and so on).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Score points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that would mean that Alice doesn't get any points, because her knight is removed before she can get any points, and this city's points are lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T13:10:01.717" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T13:10:01.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13750" CreationDate="2013-12-16T08:28:39.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you have the choice, put weak ghosts in the corner spaces. This allows the players the possibility of saving time and killing two ghosts at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the Buddhas as much as possible. It takes two turns to set them up (with the double-action monk) but automatically kills two ghosts - even big ones that would normally take longer to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only engage with a ghost if you're sure to kill it or only need one die to come up to the appropriate color. If you rely on two dice coming up your way, you will likely be wasting an action that could have been used elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T08:28:39.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13803" CreationDate="2013-12-16T09:38:30.410" Score="0" ViewCount="2243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a dark pact condition (however that was acquired) and have an encounter that gives me a choice of taking another dark pact.  The rules say that you cannot have more than one condition of the same type.  Does it mean my the patron from the first dark pact helps again -- thus you can chose the &quot;accept&quot; branch.  Does it mean that you cannot chose the &quot;accept&quot; branch?  Does it mean that you flip the dark pact card and resolve it if you chose the &quot;accept&quot; branch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...  This is linked to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/13782/5318&quot;&gt;debt condition question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:45:43.313" Title="Dark Pact condition" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2013-12-16T10:49:53.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, they are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; worth buying.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tkcs-collins.com/truman/monopoly/monopoly.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the work done by Truman Collins&lt;/a&gt; (linked to by Paul Marshall in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8486/6352&quot;&gt;his answer&lt;/a&gt;), &lt;a href=&quot;http://amnesta.net/other/monopoly/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tim Darling devised a strategy&lt;/a&gt; that pretty clearly states to &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; buy utilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes too many dice rolls by your opponents to recoup your investment and there are way more interesting things you can do with your money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T08:33:03.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="131" CreationDate="2013-12-16T12:51:11.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.SpielMaterial.de&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.SpielMaterial.de&lt;/a&gt; in Germany and Plastics for Games (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.p4g.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.p4g.co.uk/&lt;/a&gt;) in the UK before and been happy with both. Plastics for Games are definitely a buy in bulk sort of place though, from what I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T12:51:11.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5557" CreationDate="2013-12-16T15:22:01.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I strongly dislike if someone who is just few(4) stones stronger pretends to teach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's imagine: 10k level teach  15k. He will talk about all that second line moves in the beginning, stick to weak stones, all that silly moves instead of just jumping out to build territory. He is not completely familiar with living forms, and cannot count it. He does not know some principles like attacking for weaker side, or getting points from attack and a lot of more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My proposal is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sdk for rules and intro to go /before 15k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;up to 9 stones handi before dan level, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and pro/7dans for dans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally never analyze other games on goladder if I not 4 stones stronger, and if just 4-6 stones stronger, only suggest some common things that I sure can suggest player more stronger than myself. I can analyze my own game better if 2 stone stronger will look on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise do tsumego (not goproblems which is bad for the same reason), read book, listen pro lectures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6354" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:22:01.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13799" CreationDate="2013-12-16T15:45:43.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official ruling is that you can gain the benefit only once so any subsequent instances will automatically fail. Reference form &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/5030/twitch-city&quot;&gt;Twitch_City&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13793/5318&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T15:45:43.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13777" CreationDate="2013-12-16T22:53:09.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One possibility is utilizing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; and friends alongside manlands (or effects which animate lands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Pay {G} to turn a land into a creature with the first ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kamahl%2C%20Fist%20of%20Krosa&quot;&gt;Kamahl, Fist of Krosa&lt;/a&gt;. Then, pay {2}{U} to turn a Shapeshifter you control into that land with the activated ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shapesharer&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt;. (Note: Shapesharer is a legal target of its own ability.) The creature will become a land until your next turn and will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be a creature, because continuous effects such as Kamahl's are not copiable characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2013-12-16T22:53:09.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13825" CreationDate="2013-12-17T02:52:34.263" Score="10" ViewCount="4216" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mqXJy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vyxsn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProgenitor%20Mimic%5d&quot;&gt;Progenitor Mimic&lt;/a&gt; can be cast as a copy of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSimic%20Keyrune%5d&quot;&gt;Simic Keyrune&lt;/a&gt; whilst they're in their creature state. When it does so, it can become something &lt;em&gt;other than a creature:&lt;/em&gt; a land, an artifact, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, its copy ability states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, if &lt;strong&gt;this creature&lt;/strong&gt; isn't a token, put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of &lt;strong&gt;this creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose my Progenitor Mimic becomes a Mutavault&lt;sup&gt;^&lt;/sup&gt;. At the beginning of my upkeep, it will be only a land. Will Progenitor Mimic create a new Mutavault token, or is this prevented by the fact it isn't a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;^ For those who may not know, it will copy exactly what's printed on the Mutavault card and be a fresh Mutavault, not a 2/2 creature, because of how copy works. You can check the 4/15/2013 rulings on Progenitor Mimic.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T14:07:59.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:17:28.203" Title="Does Progenitor Mimic create copies of itself even when it isn't a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13805" CreationDate="2013-12-17T04:41:18.917" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does. When a card says &quot;this creature&quot;, is still refers to itself even if it is no longer a creature, so the ability still triggers and resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 201.5&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an ability of an object uses a phrase such as &quot;this [something]&quot; to identify an object, where [something] is a characteristic, it is referring to that particular object, even if it isn't the appropriate characteristic at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T22:31:04.800" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T22:31:04.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13796" CreationDate="2013-12-17T12:30:00.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencegames.com/carcassonne/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;If&lt;/a&gt; a tile with a Princess symbol, is added to a city in which there are already followers, then the placing player &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; (the &quot;BigBox&quot; rules still say &quot;must&quot;): select one follower (of any player) to remove from that city and return to its owner and &lt;em&gt;skip the deployment stage&lt;/em&gt;, after which scoring occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a follower removed by the Princess will be absent when scoring takes place. But note also that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;points may still be scored for the city if there are other followers in it, &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;removing a follower is optional, and &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no figure can be played (and the Dragon will not move, etc.) if the player chooses to use the Princess to remove a follower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T12:30:00.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-17T14:41:48.820" Score="7" ViewCount="867" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I was playing a two player game and my opponent swapped to a Diplomatic race partway through the game. they managed to surround me, effectively hemming me in and limiting my score. In the end I lost by two points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What tactics can be used when facing an opponent with a diplomatic race? Are there any preparations I should make when playing knowing that a diplomatic race is in the available race selections, even if it's not yet selected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5590" LastEditorUserId="5590" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T14:53:05.577" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T23:58:51.767" Title="Tactics to fight or deter Diplomatic races in 2 player games" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13812" CreationDate="2013-12-17T15:59:12.420" Score="5" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the jack-out and rez timing of upgrade traps that need to be rezzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, let's say the runner has passed the last piece of ice.  Does the corp rez Hokusai Grid after the runner has committed to succeeding at the run, or when they say they will access?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gist of it is: when should you rez Hokusai Grid or Bernice Mai to force the user to take the net damage or trace without the opportunity to jack out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it when the runner states that they wish to &quot;continue&quot; or &quot;access&quot;?  What is the official step name that I can use to make sure they have committed to whatever it is that they need to commit to so that they cannot jack out and I have time to rez?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6363" LastEditorUserId="6363" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T16:30:34.140" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T10:04:20.990" Title="Hokusai and Bernice Mai timing" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13810" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:17:54.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After passing the last ice protecting a server, the next step (4) is to approach the server. The runner then has the choose if they wish to continue or jack out. If they choose to continue, both players have a chance to use paid abilities and rez cards before moving onto the &quot;successful run&quot; trigger which is where Hokusai Grid and Bernice Mai trigger if rezzed. Then the runner accesses the server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Runner starts, names server.&#xA;If there's ICE, goto 2.&#xA;If no ice, goto 4.&#xA;2. Approach outermost ICE.&#xA;2.1. Paid ability can be used&#xA;2.2. Jack out (Goto 6, cannot jack out if first piece of ICE encountered this run) or continue to 2.3.&#xA;2.3. Approached ICE can be rezzed&#xA;Paid ability can be used&#xA;cards can be rezzed.&#xA;2.4. Check if ICE is rezzed.&#xA;If rezzed, goto 3.&#xA;If unrezzed, and there's another piece of ICE, goto 2.&#xA;If unrezzed, and there's no more ICE, go to 4.&#xA;3. Runner Encounters Ice if rezzed.&#xA;3.1. Icebreakers can interact, Paid abilities can be used&#xA;3.2. Resolve all unbroken subroutines&#xA;...Either the run ends, goto 6&#xA;Or it continues, and there's another piece of ICE, goto 2.&#xA;Or it continues, and there's no more ICE, go to 4.&#xA;4. Runner approaches attacked server&#xA;4.1. Paid abilities can be used.&#xA;4.2. Runner decides:&#xA;To jack out, go to 6&#xA;or to continue, go to 4.3&#xA;4.3. Paid abilities may be used, cards may be rezzed.&#xA;4.4. Run is successful. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;4.5. Access cards. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;Agenda : Stolen (Unless additional cost)&#xA;Trash cost present : may be paid to trash&#xA;Everything not trashed or stolen is returned to server.&#xA;5. Run ends. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;6. Run is unsuccessful. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T16:17:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13810" CreationDate="2013-12-17T16:24:22.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The timing structure for accessing the server is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4 The Runner APPROACHES the attacked server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.1 [Paid abilities]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.2 The Runner decides whether to continue the run.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        ...Either the Runner JACKS OUT: [end the run unsuccessfully]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;        ...Or the Runner continues the run: go to 4.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.3 [Paid abilities and non-ice can be rezzed]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.4 The run is considered to be successful. (‘When successful’ conditionals meet their trigger conditions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;4.5 Access cards, then [end the run].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects triggered by a successful run fire in 4.4. There is an opportunity to rez upgrades (4.3) before this step and after the Runner has committed to accessing (4.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your final question directly, when I play, I normally say: &quot;Would you like to access?&quot;, then, if they confirm, I say &quot;Before you do, I rez...&quot;. (I actually ask if the Runner would like to access regardless of what's in the server.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T16:24:22.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13808" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:06:35.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a tough one. I'd say that it's pretty hard to be completely surrounded, so focussing on avoiding that is a good first step. If you see the diplomatic option come out, you could consider spreading to increase your race's surface area as much as possible, making it difficult or impossible to surround. Or take the diplomatic race first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the unfortunate happens, I'd say the best course of action is to immediately decline and next turn appear at the other side of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T17:06:35.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13815" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:29:21.677" Score="7" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're a spectator to a game at either competitive or professional REL and you see a gamestate error occur, should you call a judge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if you don't call a judge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it different if you see blatant cheating or bribery instead of a gamestate error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T15:06:06.453" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T15:06:06.453" Title="Are you required to call a judge if you're not involved in the game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|mtg-professional-rel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13814" CreationDate="2013-12-17T17:57:20.307" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Covered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF1.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any person physically present at a tournament and not in any other category above is a spectator. Spectators are responsible for remaining silent and passive during matches and other official tournament sections in which players are also required to be silent. &lt;strong&gt;If spectators believe they have observed a rules or policy violation, they are encouraged to alert a judge as soon as possible.&lt;/strong&gt; At Regular or Competitive REL, spectators are permitted to ask the players to pause the match while they alert a judge. At Professional REL, spectators must not interfere with the match directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T18:25:24.823" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T18:25:24.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13816" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-17T19:49:49.103" Score="9" ViewCount="1236" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is during a 6 person game of catan with the fish. I am somewhat new to the game and when I was handed the dice I rolled them. At this point, one of the other players said this player wanted to special build. This player wanted to put a road right where I was going to put a road and in fact had the cards to do it prior to the roll.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was told that because I had rolled the dice I had forfeited my opportunity to special build in that place, though if I had not rolled the dice I would have had the priority to build there. It seemed to me that the roll of the dice was not legitimate, as I had forgotten to call for the special building phase, and so should be disregarded and the special building phase should be called for.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you interpret this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6366" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-17T20:03:44.850" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T16:00:55.637" Title="Can I special build after rolling the dice?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13816" CreationDate="2013-12-17T20:07:33.473" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 possibilities of how to handle this here, and neither one would allow your opponent to build the road instead of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Have the special building phase; pretend like you never rolled. In this case, because it would be your turn next, you would get the first turn during the special building phase to build where you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Don't allow the special building phase; because it's too late for that. The special building phase would happen &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; your turn; now that you've rolled, it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; your turn. People missed their chance to build. In this case, you can just build during your turn like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't clearly state whose responsibility it is to ensure that people get a chance to build in the special building phase. However, they do state that the phase &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; happen. It's not optional (though each player building during the phase is optional). So you technically shouldn't have rolled the dice yet; because it wasn't your turn yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Special Building Phase occurs just after the end of your turn (i.e., between player turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in a friendly game; we either do a quick check (&quot;is anyone building in between turns?&quot;) or just assume that no one is unless someone speaks up (&quot;hold on, I want to build before you roll&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, I don't see any situation in which the rules would imply that you don't get a chance to build your road before your opponent; you have first chance at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T20:07:33.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13663" CreationDate="2013-12-17T22:58:34.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did manage to find some replacement pieces from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.litko.net/products/Galaxy-Battle,-Medium-Flight-Stands.html#.UrDRvvRDt8E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  As you see in the image below, the bases do arrive unassembled.  I'll use the plastic cement (that I ordered at the same time) to attach the vertical column into those center holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ak5d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My unassembled bases&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part number at this vendor appears to be AFS062-CLR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, due to trademark restrictions (almost certainly), they have to refer to their pieces as &quot;Galaxy Battle&quot; and make them visibly different from the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6265" LastActivityDate="2013-12-17T22:58:34.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13816" CreationDate="2013-12-18T00:45:24.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no specific rule in the game to address this situation, so the correct answer is entirely dependent on your gaming group and your &quot;house rules.&quot;  Is it a more relaxed, just to have fun type of group?  Or is it a highly competitive, win at all costs type of group?  Or like many groups, somewhere in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, how does your group handle other rules?  For instance, if someone builds a road and places it on the board, are they allowed to change their mind and move it (before or after any other action takes place)?  If someone starts paying the costs to build something to the bank (actually placing the cards back in the supply), are they allowed to stop and recover their resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an &quot;expected&quot; behavior for how the build phase is treated in your group, and did you violate that?  For instance, in one group I play with, before you roll you are supposed to ask if anyone wants to build.  In another group, it is expected that you declare your intent to build when the turn ends if you want the build phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Most importantly&lt;/strong&gt;, does the group assess penalties for other infractions and if so, in what manner?  If your group doesn't assess penalties for other infractions, then there is no reason to assess one here (limit your choices to 1-3 below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you answer these questions for your group, I can see a number of options, from most relaxed to most competitive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stop your turn, allow the build phase to proceed with each player getting their turn to build, and then proceed with the dice you already rolled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Treat it as if you didn't roll, allow the build phase to proceed with each player getting their turn to build, and then proceed with your turn by rolling the dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the roll started your turn, the build phase is over.  The other player should have spoken up before you rolled and can build after your turn if they wish to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you rolled &quot;out of sequence&quot; and violated the rules (of the game/for your group), you are penalized by losing your chance to build during the build phase.  Treat it as if you didn't roll, allow the build phase to proceed with the other players getting their turn to build, and then proceed with your turn by rolling the dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you rolled &quot;out of sequence&quot; and violated the rules (of the game/for your group), you are penalized by losing your turn.  Since the dice have already been rolled, the build phase preceding your turn has been missed.  Process the effects of the dice roll, and then proceed to the build phase following your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you rolled &quot;out of sequence&quot; and violated the rules (of the game/for your group), you are penalized by being disqualified from the current game.  Leave your current pieces on the board, continue to roll on your turn, but you neither draw nor play cards for the remainder of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6279" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T00:45:24.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13144" CreationDate="2013-12-18T00:46:29.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, they are their own tile.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kGyqR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/LoD_Rulebook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; defines &lt;strong&gt;Tiles and Squares&lt;/strong&gt; in page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tile is the basic building block of the dungeon, drawn from the Cavern Tile stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A square is one of the spaces on a Cavern tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this definition technically rules out the Cavern Edge Tiles, because the are not drawn from the stack. Still, on page 6, it still refers to them as tiles, just 1/4th the size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cavern Edge Tiles&lt;/strong&gt; - Each of these &lt;strong&gt;tiles&lt;/strong&gt; is about one-quarter the size of a &lt;strong&gt;regular Cavern tile&lt;/strong&gt;. The most common use for Cavern Edge tiles is to create a cavern complex at the start of an adventure. See “Creating a Pre-Built Cavern Complex” on page 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rules treat the Start Tile as two separate tiles that are already connected, I see no reason not to treat the Cavern Edge Tiles as separate tiles connected to normal Cavern tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T00:46:29.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13697" CreationDate="2013-12-18T02:58:25.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my comment to Thanos' answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically speaking, 3S splinter followed by 4NT over the expected 4H by partner should be keycard ask, without counting the Spade Ace (otherwise why not bid 4NT directly?). If partner bids 4D (likely singleton), you can still continue with a 4S bid and partner will know to take you further with the heart or club Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would suggest bidding 3S, followed by 4NT over 4H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T02:58:25.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13828" CreationDate="2013-12-18T05:05:27.430" Score="8" ViewCount="1902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I purchased a set of double-six dominoes. It has a manual which points to the heaviness of the dominoes. It says that a double-six is the heaviest domino and the double blank is the lightest. The same is said on this website (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.domino-games.com/domino-rules/domino-basics.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;) dedicated to dominoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find on Google which is heavier: a 1-6 or a 3-4. Can an experienced player tell me the answer and the reasoning behind it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6369" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-05-09T05:16:37.670" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T05:16:37.670" Title="Which domino is heavier?" Tags="|dominoes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13827" CreationDate="2013-12-18T16:54:56.257" Score="5" ViewCount="3206" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my son, who is 8 years old, is just noticing his friends getting into card games like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pokemon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  I collected sports cards when I was his age and still do.  I never got into the card games like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;D&amp;amp;D&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pokemon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out the balance between what's popular today, fun for an 8 year old to play, and what would be a good investment for him down the road, if he were to collect them as a hobby as well as play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can the Card Game Gurus enlighten me as to what card game is popular today, fun for kids, and is a worthy investment at a reasonable cost to my wallet?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6377" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T21:19:38.280" Title="What card game is popular today, fun for kids, and is a worthy investment at a reasonable cost to my wallet?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|recommendations|yu-gi-oh|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2013-12-18T23:24:15.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13805" CreationDate="2013-12-18T17:09:25.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you'll get copies of Mutavault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Tears&quot;&gt;Wall of Tears&lt;/a&gt; for a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Wall of Tears blocks a creature, return that creature to its owner's hand at end of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTG uses pronouns whenever possible. The only reason Wall of Tears doesn't say &amp;quot;return it&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;return that creature&amp;quot; is that it would be ambiguous as to whether whether the Wall of Tears or the attacker should be returned to its owner's hand. &amp;quot;That creature&amp;quot; is not meant to be a check. This is codified by 201.5 and 608.2i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.5. If an ability of an object uses a phrase such as “this [something]” to identify an object, where [something] is a characteristic, it is referring to that particular object, even if it isn’t the appropriate characteristic at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2i. If an ability’s effect refers to a specific untargeted object that has been previously referred to by that ability’s cost or trigger condition, it still affects that object even if the object has changed characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitor%20Mimic&quot;&gt;Progenitor Mimic&lt;/a&gt;'s case, 201.5 applies (but not 608.2i, at least not for the first instance of &amp;quot;this creature&amp;quot;), allowing the ability to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T12:17:28.203" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T12:17:28.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13824" CreationDate="2013-12-18T17:19:00.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would go for &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1927/munchkin&quot;&gt;Munchkin&lt;/a&gt;. My 8-year-old nephew LOVES it (I like it too), it has a lot of replay value, and while there are a ton of expansions, they're cheap, cheap, cheap compared to the booster packs you'd be buying for Magic. That said, there is zero collectible element to Munchkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flight Games also has a bunch of what they call &quot;Living Card Games&quot;, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/124742/android-netrunner&quot;&gt;Android:Netrunner&lt;/a&gt;, that have a similar-ish play experience to e.g. Magic, but without the booster pack element.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36218/dominion&quot;&gt;Dominion&lt;/a&gt; was designed by an M:tG enthusiast, as was &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/69789/ascension-chronicle-of-the-godslayer&quot;&gt;Ascension&lt;/a&gt;. They are very similar, with IMO Dominion winning on gameplay, and Ascension winning on thematic elements and simplicity. My nephew enjoys Dominion...hasn't tried Ascension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned Magic, I know it's still pretty popular. People at my work play it, and my other, slightly-older nephew just got into it. If you really care about the collectibility, this is probably still the most popular one around; of course, nobody can predict future value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T17:33:02.477" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T17:33:02.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13824" CreationDate="2013-12-18T18:41:20.880" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Collectible Card Games (CCG) wax and wane in popularity....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, both &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemontcg.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pokemon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; an &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; cards were extremely popular over a decade ago. There are still sales of these cards and older cards sell well, but both games have shrunk considerably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The exception:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; which has had pretty solid sales, organized play, and card values over the course of the last 2 decades. If there are game shops within your area, chances are very high that they sell both new cards (decks and booster packs) as well as buying and reselling cards. There will also likely be organized tournaments and play events at these shops as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Catch&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; (and CCGs in general) can be described as money pits and aptly so. The pre-built decks you can buy work, but not nearly so well as building a deck using rares and uncommons found in booster packs to fight a specific strategy (or to counter one). They have yearly or quarterly expansions which drive players to continually buy new cards as well. Magic card values also have the usual collectable game catch-22 where they are only worth something if you never play with or even physically touch them which makes collecting for value something of an adult hobby vs. for your son. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Solution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In recent years there has been a huge trend in Living Card Games (LCG). LCGs work on the same basic principle of deck vs. battles as CCGs except they completely do away with boosters and have a growth and expense rate of expansions for a boardgame. Two very popular and very well reviewed LCGs are &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=129&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Lord of The Rings&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; LCG and &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=207&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Android: Netrunner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; LCG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Android: Netrunner&lt;/em&gt; LCG is a 2 player game Cyberpunk dueling deck game with 1 player taking the role of the Corporation (there are different ones, as different decks) trying to complete agendas and make money who is taken on by the other player playing the Hacker (again, different faction decks to choose from) who is seeking to hack into the corporation and expose agendas for money or for fame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Lord of the Rings&lt;/em&gt; LCG is a cooperative game where players take the role of different heroes from the Fellowship as the travel through Middle-Earth. Players work together to deal with enemies and dangers as they are dealt out. Everyone wins and loses together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastEditorUserId="3301" LastEditDate="2013-12-18T21:19:38.280" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T21:19:38.280" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13822" CreationDate="2013-12-18T19:20:45.250" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Neither, both have a weight of 7.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domino &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dominoes#Tiles_and_suits&quot;&gt;weight values&lt;/a&gt; are determined by counting the pips on bound sides. Heavier tiles left unplayed in hand, will earn your opponents more points in many Domino variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sum of the two values, i.e. the total number of pips, may be referred to as the rank or weight of a tile, and a tile with more pips may be called heavier than a lighter tile with fewer pips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-12-18T19:20:45.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13844" CreationDate="2013-12-19T13:29:51.060" Score="5" ViewCount="3495" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an investigator is in a space with two monsters (A, B) and attacks one (A) of them, does he have to make an evasion check for the one (B) which he is not attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't explicitly confirm nor deny this, and it seems sensible to play this way, but I would like to have the opinion of some more experienced keeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6353" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T12:26:56.757" Title="Evasion checks for investigator attacking a monster in a space with another monster" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13808" CreationDate="2013-12-19T13:53:44.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @bwarner commented, I'd say abandon all regions and start invading from the maps borders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player wishes to free up some more Race tokens, he may opt to entirely empty up some - &lt;strong&gt;or all&lt;/strong&gt; - Regions, leaving no Tokens there; but in this case, these now abandoned Regions will no longer be considered his, nor bring him any Victory coins. &lt;strong&gt;If the player chooses to abandon all the Regions he previously occupied, his next conquest must follow the same rules as its First Conquest&lt;/strong&gt; (see First Conquest, p. 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2957" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T13:53:44.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13831" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:05:29.707" Score="6" ViewCount="2570" Body="&lt;p&gt;player A : 4,4&lt;br&gt;&#xA;player B : A,10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;board : K,K,Q,Q,2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which player wins? I guess Player B but player A claims he has a pair of 4 which is a bigger kicker. who is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6388" LastEditorUserId="8272" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T14:28:32.267" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:28:32.267" Title="When both players have the same 2 pair, can a 3rd pair be used as a valid kicker?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-23T09:25:21.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13831" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:16:03.823" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player B wins. All that matters is the best 5 card hand you can make with the combined 7 cards. So player A does NOT have a pair of 4 as a kicker... player A has K,K,Q,Q,4. Player B has K,K,Q,Q,A. Both identical 2 pairs, but player B has A which beats 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T14:16:03.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13837" CreationDate="2013-12-19T14:56:02.910" Score="5" ViewCount="2914" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I'm playing UW Miracles in Legacy. During my opponent's turn, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;,  and the first card that I draw is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entreat%20the%20Angels&quot;&gt;Entreat the Angels&lt;/a&gt;. If I choose to cast the card for its miracle cost, what order do the triggers resolve in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Miracle trigger go on the stack immediately, before Brainstorm finishes resolving (ie. before I draw my other cards and then put cards back on my library)? Am I then able to pay the cost and create my angels in the middle of the Brainstorm? Or does the trigger wait until Brainstorm has finished resolving? What if I chose to put Entreat back on top of my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:49:52.960" Title="Interactions between Brainstorm and Miracles" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13833" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:06:37.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The miracle trigger goes on the stack after the brain storm resolves but you have to reveal the card as soon as you draw it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After brain storm resolves, the miracle trigger would resolve giving you the opportunity to cast the spell revealed when the trigger happened for it's miracle cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you put it back on the top of your library you get the chance to use the miracle on your following turn if it is the first card you draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because it triggered and you revealed it, does not mean it can not be put back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See rule 702.93 all parts but most in particular this part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.93b If a player chooses to reveal a card using its miracle ability, he or she plays with that card revealed until that card&#xA;  leaves his or her hand, that ability resolves, or that ability&#xA;  otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T15:17:09.500" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:17:09.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13833" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:17:27.167" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers while Brainstorm is resolving, but it will only go on the stack after Brainstorm finishes resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you chose to put Entreat back on top of your library, you won't be able to cast it. The object the Miracle ability tries to cast ceased to exist when it left your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by the &lt;em&gt;Avacyn Restored&lt;/em&gt; FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card with miracle leaves your hand before the triggered ability resolves, you won't be able to cast it using its miracle ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:23:55.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13833" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:25:48.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You must reveal the card &lt;em&gt;as you draw it&lt;/em&gt; in order to claim the miracle trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The trigger will go on the stack when Brainstorm finishes resolving.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can only cast the miracle card if it never left your hand before the trigger resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how and why it works this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You draw cards one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;120.2. Cards may only be drawn one at a time. If a player is instructed to draw multiple cards, that player performs that many individual card draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You reveal your first card &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;as you draw it,&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; before putting it in your hand (if it's a miracle card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.93. Miracle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). “Miracle [cost]” means “You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it’s the first card you’ve drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93b If a player chooses to reveal a card using its miracle ability, he or she plays with that card revealed until that card leaves his or her hand, that ability resolves, or that ability otherwise leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nothing else happens yet. Just keep the card revealed in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then you draw the rest of your cards and put some card from your hand back, as Brainstorm tells you to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once you're done with the Brainstorm actions, the miracle trigger actually goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you wait for the trigger to resolve. Players pass priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the miracle trigger resolves, you may cast the miracle card. If it has left your hand at all, you can't cast it for its miracle cost (even if you manage to put it back somehow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule [none of which apply.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw card 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal miracle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw card 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw card 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put back two cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brainstorm finishes resolving (and is in the graveyard now)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack miracle trigger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players get priority and can do stuff&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Miracle trigger resolves: now you get to decide whether to cast the spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.mtgsalvation.com/showthread.php?p=8528960&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's the same interpretation from a level 2 judge.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T15:49:52.960" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-19T15:40:35.343" Score="3" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unspeakable Words is a word game where each player tries to score 100 points without going insane. Each player begins with 5 tokens that represent their sanity. Whenever a player scores a word, they roll a d20, and if the roll is greater than or equal to the points you scored, you don't lose a sanity token. If you lose all your sanity tokens, you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the odds that 2 or more players would survive to 100 points in a 4-player game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; Assume players can always score words of the point value they wish between 1-20, and will not attempt actions that leave them with a less than &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highprogrammer.com/alan/games/unspeakable-words.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;50% chance of winning&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-12-19T22:31:22.153" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T09:44:41.427" Title="In 4-player Unspeakable Words, what is the likelihood of more than one player not going insane?" Tags="|statistics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13791" CreationDate="2013-12-19T21:13:43.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree mostly with sitnaltax and ruds, and would like to add some more points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game must be playable and fun to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like it when I can provide some useful feedback. I don't want to play a half done game, but I am happy to help polishing details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5585" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T21:13:43.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2013-12-19T21:22:51.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;We own several versions and editions of the crayon rail games in my house.  In each one that we have, there is a &quot;Variants&quot; section of the rules.  One of the variants we &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; play with is the fast game.  It has 5 main effects that I can think of offhand: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increases starting cash by $20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adds one additional pre-movement turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gives you 5 initial demand cards, and you must discard 2 after the third building turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Increases the speed of the trains (9 to 12, 12 to 16, half 6 and 8 respectively)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nullifies the &quot;Rail Tax&quot; card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another official variant that can help is the mercy rule.  The mercy rule allows you to &quot;borrow&quot; from the bank, but you must repay double &lt;em&gt;the next time you get money&lt;/em&gt;.  This allows you to spend that extra $10 to build track to get that $55 payoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between those two rules, our games tend to go smoothly and rather fast (usually 1.5 - 2 hours for 2 players, add 30 minutes per extra player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems funny to me that each of the ideas had been mentioned in some fashion in another answer, but nobody mentioned the official variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastEditorUserId="6358" LastEditDate="2013-12-20T20:38:59.667" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T20:38:59.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13829" CreationDate="2013-12-19T21:30:55.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that he does not need to make an evasion check for the second monster.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Evasion checks are to be made when you try to move from or search in space where there is a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T21:30:55.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13808" CreationDate="2013-12-19T23:58:51.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I leave the Diplomatic badge in the box unless there are three or more players. We find that if it's not in the game, it can't cause any problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2013-12-19T23:58:51.767" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13713" CreationDate="2013-12-20T02:20:45.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not do something simple like taking away some points from each word that the more experienced player scores?  You could do it as a set amount of points per word which would mean low scoring words wouldn't count. Or you could set it as a percentage of each word meaning higher point count words wouldn't be worth as much. Both of these methods could help balance the game while helping the newer player learw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T02:20:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13829" CreationDate="2013-12-20T04:04:58.933" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you do not perform an evade test on either monster when performing an attack action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/mansions-of-madness/support/MansionsOfMadnessLoRes.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are explicit on this (page 14):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Evade Tests&lt;/strong&gt; - An investigator must make an evade test against every monster in his space &lt;strong&gt;before moving&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;performing non-attack&lt;/strong&gt; actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An evade test is an attribute test that is resolved immediately before the investigator attempts to move or take the action. In order to evade a monster, the player makes a Dexterity test modified by the monster’s awareness (the white number at the top right corner of the monster’s token).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player passes this test, then the investigator suffers no ill effect. If he fails this test, the keeper may have the monster damage the investigator (equal to the monster’s damage value – see page 23). Regardless of whether he passes or fails, the investigator may then move or perform the intended action. After having attempted to evade a monster, the investigator may freely move and take actions without having to try to evade the same monster that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It specifically allows attacking on page 15:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Attacking a monster does not require making an evade test.&lt;/strong&gt; This attack may be unarmed, with a weapon, or with an “attack” Spell card. This attack does not need to target a monster in the investigator’s space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or again on page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking a monster is the only action that an investigator can perform while a monster is in his space (unless he evades the monster, see “Evade Tests” on page 14).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T04:18:12.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13831" CreationDate="2013-12-20T14:17:02.253" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best &quot;hand&quot; of &lt;strong&gt;five&lt;/strong&gt; cards wins. That is two pair: KK QQ A kicker, and player B wins.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has a pair of fours that &quot;doesn't play&quot; because there are already two pairs on the board (and no room for a third pair in a five card hand). But player B's ace kicker &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; play (and beat's Player A's 4-kicker).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the board to KKQ32, and Player A wins, because he has two pair, kings over fours, with a Q kicker, while player B has one pair, KK with an ace kicker. The second queen &quot;counterfeited&quot; Player A's second pair by giving player B a second (higher) one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T19:38:41.127" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T19:38:41.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13851" CreationDate="2013-12-20T15:58:18.503" Score="5" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;The conventional wisdom is that a bridge declaration for game will have about a 50-50 chance of success if declarer has about 25 high card points, and the defense has 15. That's &quot;all other things being equal.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a 24 point declaration might well succeed if they are divided about equally between declarer and dummy, because of good &quot;transportation,&quot; while a 26 point declaration divided 22 points and 4 might fail because of bad transportation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a similar line of reasoning hold on defense? If one defender has made an opening bid or takeout double, the implication is that defender holds most of the defensive values, (and this fact is known to declarer). Is that a disadvantage? Or are there offsetting advantages, such as the information being made available to the other defender?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T06:27:27.063" Title="Is a bridge defense easier if the values are about equally distributed?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13856" CreationDate="2013-12-20T19:01:57.507" Score="2" ViewCount="8726" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most sets of rules for Cribbage [1], you score a point for playing the last card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first impression is this tends to nullify the &quot;point for go&quot; - if you manage to win &quot;1 for go&quot;, probably the other player then has an extra card than you and is going to get &quot;1 for last card&quot;. Of course if you get &quot;2 for 31&quot; you come out ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I wondered if the point of forcing go is perhaps you get to play at least two cards in succession (e.g. you have a pair of twos, 2H and 2D; you arrange it so you plays 2H for &quot;28&quot;; opponent is blocked so &quot;go&quot;; now you can play 2D for a pair).  But the the opponent would have the same advantage at the end when they get last card (admittedly they will have played some cards before you forced go so have less chance of this opportunity.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have got as far as &quot;if you don't have the '1 for last card' rule, it is worth winning 1 for go, and 2 for 31 is even better; if you have the rule, it's just more difficult to score over the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I imagine there is more to it? So my question is &lt;strong&gt;What is the effect of the &quot;1 for last card&quot; score on tactics in cribbage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;[1] Closely related question - to my limited research it seems '1 for last card' is less common in British books than American books or websites.  Is it a regional variation, or more a 'house rules' thing?  Or are rule sets missing this rule just wrong?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6395" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T04:31:11.143" Title="What is the effect of the &quot;1 for last card&quot; score on tactics in cribbage?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2013-12-20T23:55:41.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the most important advice for early on in the game, as well as later, is &lt;strong&gt;be flexible&lt;/strong&gt;.  Depending on the number of players, initial layout and what other players do, it may be advantages to seek a small continent, a large continent or just sit on the wall and wait it out, only collecting +3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if there are several players of equal strength, likely leading a long game (even with increasing cards), you will likely need a continent.  Or, if there are five or more players, you will likely do better without defending a continent but focusing on positioning to attack a weak players when the card bonuses get high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe is rarely a good idea - even if you start out strong there initially - it is just too exposed.  North America on the other hand can work, but only if you take your time to clear it out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Create conditions where other players will have an incentive to attack each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In games of increasing card values, make sure you always have a line of attack in all directions.  This is also one of the problems of defending large continents - can force you to spread your armies, making a quick strike difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6396" LastActivityDate="2013-12-20T23:55:41.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2403" CreationDate="2013-12-21T01:25:25.893" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While writing a Cribbage app (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BTO Cribbage&quot;&gt;BTO Cribbage&lt;/a&gt;), I had the same thought.  When I wrote the scoring module, it came to me with the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For straights, you get a point per card considering every unique combination of straights of 3 cards or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Example:&#xA;2,3,4 -&amp;gt; only 1 combination of straight = 3 &#xA;2,3,4,4 -&amp;gt; 2 combinations of straights + 1 pair = 8 &#xA;2,3,4,5 -&amp;gt; only 1 combination straight = 4&#xA;2,3,4,5,5 -&amp;gt; 2 combinations of straights + 1 pair + fifteen = 10&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy right?  Now use the same logic for pairs / sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sets (2,3,4) you get a point per card considering every unique combination of pairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Example (more detailed):&#xA;2C,2H -&amp;gt; 1 pair = 2 points&#xA;2C,2H,2D -&amp;gt; 3 pairs of 2C+2H, 2C+2D, 2H+2D = 6 points&#xA;2C,2H,2D,2S -&amp;gt; 6 pairs of 2C+2H, 2C+2D, 2H+2D, 2S+2C, 2S+2H, 2S+2D = 12 points&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in both cases, you score 1 point per card considering every combination.  If you think about it this way, straights are scored just as logically as sets.  Further, 15 scoring also works this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6397" LastEditorUserId="36840" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T13:31:37.377" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T13:31:37.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13846" CreationDate="2013-12-21T03:11:04.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having the bulk of the defensive values is so well known to be a liability that it has its own term in the bridge lexicon - &lt;em&gt;end-played at trick 1&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What possible reason do you have for thinking otherwise? There is no fundamental difference between the card play as Declarer or Defender, which is why throw-ins, squeezes and end-plays work equally well for both sides..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T03:11:04.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13846" CreationDate="2013-12-21T06:27:27.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having the defensive values split between the hands is better for the defense for the same reason as declarer, but the advantage is not as strong for defenders as for declarers. This is because defenders are more likely to choose the wrong suit to work on as they have less information about their combined strength, and less coordination. For example, it's more difficult for one defender to lead clubs and the other defender to switch to spades to get the entry to partner's hand, than it is for declarer to lead up to dummy's clubs, and then switch to a spade to get back to declarer's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T06:27:27.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-21T07:16:35.707" Score="5" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the addition of the &lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt; expansion, you can use your leaders to build your wonder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you build Babylon (B)'s second stage (which allows you to play the card you would normally discard) with your third Age Leader, can you use this ability to play your fourth Leader or must it be used to play a third Age card? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the fourth Leader would normally be discarded, the question was raised as we were playing tonight. I'm not sure how to answer it since, if you were using a Leader in any other Age, you would not be able to play another Leader as you would not be discarding a Leader at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6400" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T00:27:48.247" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T00:27:48.247" Title="In 7 Wonders, when using a Leader to build Babylon (B)'s second stage before Age 3" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13852" CreationDate="2013-12-21T11:25:53.497" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you are not allowed to play a Leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the base game &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Hanging Gardens of Babylon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  · the second stage gives the player the option of playing their &lt;strong&gt;seventh &#xA;  Age card&lt;/strong&gt; instead of discarding it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Leader &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leader Cards&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The Leaders (white cards) are a new card category. They are &lt;strong&gt;not added to the Age cards&lt;/strong&gt; and have a different back to set them apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the bold parts: Babylon (B) allows you to play an &lt;em&gt;Age card&lt;/em&gt;, but Leaders are not part of the &lt;em&gt;Age card&lt;/em&gt; set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T11:40:56.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12246" CreationDate="2013-12-21T11:30:50.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fastest way for Black to mate is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. f3 e5&#xA;2. g4 Qh4# &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1.f4 is also possible so there are two versions of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more versions for a fast mate by White:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. e4 g5&#xA;2. d4 f5&#xA;3. Qh5#&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coupled with this f, g pawn advances there is also another neat version&#xA;which takes the same amount of moves for White to mate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. e4 e5&#xA;2. Qh5 Ke7&#xA;3. Qxe5#&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thereby fastest white mate can happen in three moves (precisely 2½&#xA;moves) whereas fastest black mate can happen in two moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5844" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T11:30:50.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13829" CreationDate="2013-12-21T12:26:56.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Evasion checks are required when you are in a space with a monster and attempt to perform a non-attack action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, lets say you start in the room with two monsters so you can have two actions this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you spend your first action attacking one of the monsters, you do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; require an evade check against it.  If you spend your second action attacking either of the monsters, again  you do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; require an evade check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you want to spend your second action searching/moving/doing anything but an attack action against either monster, you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; need to do an evade check against &lt;em&gt;both monsters&lt;/em&gt; (if you didn't kill the first during the attack action), since they are both still in the room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you spent your first action entering the room, and the second action attacking - then there is no reason to do an evade check since you are not doing any non-attack actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most MoM scenarios, there are only ever a few monsters on the board, so this particular situation shouldn't come up too often, but yeah - multiple monsters in one room can spell bad things for the investigators!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2013-12-21T12:26:56.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13847" CreationDate="2013-12-21T16:05:41.287" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are misreading the rules. As &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/cribbage/85.php?page_id=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this set&lt;/a&gt; points out, the &lt;em&gt;one for last card&lt;/em&gt; is just an alias for the minimum &lt;strong&gt;go&lt;/strong&gt; guaranteed to Dealer for playing second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tactically, the guaranteed &lt;em&gt;go&lt;/em&gt; for Dealer really only affects end-play as both players approach 121 points. at other times in the game, worrying about a single point is just not important enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: Consider a situation where Dealer is at 106 and Non-Dealer at 112 with 7 points in hand. Non-Dealer would like to peg at least two points to guarantee the win with first count, but must be wary of sequences that allow Dealer to peg a 2+12, followed by the guaranteed go. Non-Dealer should not lead with a low pair hoping for a triple, as the 6 is insufficient compared to Dealer's possible 2+12. Better to try to get a 15 and give up a possible 6 to Dealer, as that is enough with first count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2013-12-22T04:31:11.143" LastActivityDate="2013-12-22T04:31:11.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-23T01:07:33.957" Score="4" ViewCount="1453" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm rolling dice in King of Tokyo, I get what I want after 2 rolls, and I choose not to take my 3rd roll. Another person has a card that says they may make someone reroll a die once each turn. If they make me roll a die after those two rolls, and I don't like the result, may I then take my 3rd roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user6408" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2013-12-23T03:49:52.907" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T03:49:52.907" Title="about rolls and being forced to reroll" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13863" CreationDate="2013-12-23T01:25:14.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you are talking about Psychic Probe as the card forcing the reroll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the English translation of the French faq from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/743476/faq-in-english-answered-by-gabriel-iello-in-a-fren&quot;&gt;Boardgame Geek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Psychic probe:&lt;/em&gt; If you still have rerolls left, you cannot use them after a psychic probe effect (which takes place the moment you declare that you keep the dice results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T01:25:14.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-23T04:24:15.907" Score="4" ViewCount="2088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received a new &lt;a href=&quot;http://mycatanboards.com/products/official-plastic-catan-board-5-to-6-player&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan Board&lt;/a&gt; and we attempted to setup the 5-6 player game.  I realized that I had forgotten how to setup the ports, but since I had also got a new copy of the game, it didn't say how to set them up without the new &quot;frames&quot; that are included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you set up the ports in Settlers of Catan if you don't use the frames?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-15T02:50:30.387" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T02:50:30.387" Title="How do you set up ports when you don't use the new &quot;frames&quot;" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13865" CreationDate="2013-12-23T04:25:30.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 3-4 player game you start with placing a port on the hexside at the end of a long (5 piece) row.  You then place a port every other space around the map.  Each port is placed oriented towards the hexside of the longest row it is next to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 5-6 player game it is more complicated.  Here is a snapshot of the rules so you can see how to place the ports correctly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbYyH.png&quot; alt=&quot;5-6 player port setup&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T04:25:30.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-23T04:29:43.740" Score="1" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy games and puzzles, although I don't have many people to play with (usually 2 players, sometimes 3). I've heard that Pandemic is a good solo game so I'm especially interested in it. I'm thinking of just purchasing the base game and later getting the expansions if we like it but I've seen extremely positive reviews of the expansions so it may be worth getting them too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6409" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T09:55:08.577" Title="Thinking of getting Pandemic...should I buy one or both of the expansion packs along with the base game?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2013-12-24T20:56:29.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13868" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-23T17:32:57.290" Score="6" ViewCount="1631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read a few theories regarding which seat is the best in Blackjack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to figure out if my own theory is correct. It won't apply to many situations, but when it does, I believe it would be best to be seated just before the dealer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theory: Assuming you have 16 and dealer has 11, and is your turn, I would say you best bet is to not take a new card (8/13 cards will result in you busting). However, if you're next to the dealer, you should &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; take a new card. The reason being: if it's between 1 and 5 you will get a better hand. If it's from 6 and up, you will bust, but the dealer would have gotten 17 or up if you didn't take it, thus beating you anyhow. This only applies if you're next to the dealer, (if not, someone else will take the card you didn't take, and the dealer could still get something low and bust on the next card). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this would give you slightly better odds if you're next to the dealer. Am I wrong here? (I see that the advantage would be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; small, however, I'm curious if my logic applies here. Any views?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6412" LastActivityDate="2019-10-13T06:31:13.063" Title="Best place around the table in Blackjack" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13868" CreationDate="2013-12-23T18:12:38.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are correct that the best seat is just before the dealer.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is that you get extra information before deciding whether to hit or stay. Keep in mind that in your example, you would still have the same decision whether to hit or stay when sitting on a 16 and the dealer showing 11. The only difference, is that sitting to he right of the dealer allows you to see more cards if more than one person is playing and adjust the odds of drawing a particular card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2013-12-23T18:12:38.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13871" CreationDate="2013-12-24T02:49:33.563" Score="4" ViewCount="14830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played with a new group of friends recently and they are playing with such a rule where they will draw a new hand if they don't have any card. Basically their strategy is to finish off all the cards in their hand so they can draw a new 4x treasures and 4x doors the next turn. Any idea if this true? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6410" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T15:50:36.037" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T02:55:34.807" Title="Do I draw a new hand if I start my turn without any card?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13870" CreationDate="2013-12-24T03:02:50.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not draw a new hand when yours runs out. Your friends are playing with a house rule. It &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be an optional rule in some expansion's handbook, but I'm not aware of such an optional rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time you draw a new hand is when you start a new character: at the beginning of the game, or after you die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are &lt;em&gt;not expected&lt;/em&gt; to always have cards in your hand in Munchkin. In fact, it's highly likely that you won't have any cards in your hand a while into the game, and that's fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T03:02:50.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13873" CreationDate="2013-12-24T04:32:21.257" Score="5" ViewCount="2137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a hypothetical situation I am wondering about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have in play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omnath%2C%20Locus%20of%20Mana&quot;&gt;Omnath, Locus of Mana&lt;/a&gt; and 500 Green mana in my mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays a removal spell on Omnath (Path to Exile, Doom Blade etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vines%20of%20Vastwood&quot;&gt;Vines of Vastwood&lt;/a&gt; on Omnath (Vines makes Omnath not targetable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 114.1 says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;targets are declared as part of the process of putting the spell or ability on the stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Omnath was declared as the target when the removal spell was played.  Is it too late then for my Vines of the Vastwood to save Omnath?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there somekind of rechecking of the target before the spell resolves (I could not find it in the targeting rules section.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T05:51:15.813" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T05:51:15.813" Title="When does &quot;Targeting&quot; happen in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13872" CreationDate="2013-12-24T04:41:51.323" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said, you declare the targets of a spell while you are putting the spell on the stack. Then, when a spell starts to resolve, if it no longer has valid targets, it fails to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Casting_Spells&quot;&gt;601.2c&lt;/a&gt;, the third step of casting a spell is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and from rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot;&gt;608.2b&lt;/a&gt;, as part of resolving a spell or ability,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal... Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell... The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &quot;target,&quot; are now illegal... if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability's effect for which it is an illegal target can't perform any actions on that target or make that target perform any actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, once Vines of the Vastwood resolves, the removal spell no longer has a valid target, so the removal spell fails to resolve and Omnath stays in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T04:46:52.427" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T04:46:52.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13875" CreationDate="2013-12-24T05:00:31.143" Score="2" ViewCount="13275" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have an EDH/Commander deck with Omnath, Locus of Mana as my commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that count as being in my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can I have another Omnath, Locus of Mana in my deck?  (If so I imagine I would have to follow all the Legendary rules about playing the second one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I could include a second one in my deck that could be useful (if the commander version gets killed a few times I would be able to play the one from the deck for only 3 mana.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:35:53.840" Title="Does the commander count as part of your deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2013-12-24T05:11:10.863" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Commander is part of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.5a Each deck must contain exactly 100 cards, including its commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Legend rule doesn't limit what can be present in a deck &amp;mdash; it limits what's on the 'field &amp;mdash; but the following Commander rule does:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.5b Other than basic lands, each card in a Commander deck must have a different English name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The uniqueness rule extends to the sideboard. You only have a single copy of a card in both the deck and 10 card sideboard combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T12:40:55.177" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T12:40:55.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13870" CreationDate="2013-12-24T07:05:06.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you do not draw 4 cards from the Treasure or Door deck when you empty your hand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; mention '4' seven times, and 'four' twice. All the '4' references are examples (I.e. [general rules list] &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;4. You must kill&lt;/strong&gt; a monster to reach Level 10,&amp;quot; [phase] &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;(4) Charity&lt;/strong&gt;: If you have more than five cards in your hand,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;Drooling Slime and an Elf helps you, the monster’s combat strength is &lt;strong&gt;increased by 4&lt;/strong&gt;,&amp;quot; etc. ). The two places 'four' are mentioned is in the &lt;strong&gt;Setup&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Death&lt;/strong&gt; sections. These are the only rules that allow you to draw four cards from both the Treasure and Door decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] Divide the cards into the Door deck and the Treasure deck. Shuffle both decks. &lt;strong&gt;Deal four cards from each deck to each player.&lt;/strong&gt; (page 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Death&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] Your new character appears when the next player begins his turn, and can help others in combat . . . but you have no cards.&#xA;On your next turn, start by &lt;strong&gt;drawing four cards from each deck&lt;/strong&gt;, face-down, and playing any legal Race, Class, or Item cards you want to, just as when you started the game. Then take your turn normally. (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T02:55:34.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-24T05:02:06.373" Score="17" ViewCount="38452" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I:&lt;/strong&gt; I am not sure how many cards can best suit our manufacturing until I know the size of your cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Customer:&lt;/strong&gt; I expect the cards will be &quot;poker&quot; size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I:&lt;/strong&gt; Poker also have different sizes, the most common poker size is 63*88mm, is this size ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Customer:&lt;/strong&gt; See, this is an example of how communication can break down. There is ONE size of cards which are called &quot;poker size&quot;. Just because you can play poker with different card sizes (e.g. mini, bridge, jumbo), doesn't mean there are different &quot;poker card&quot; sizes. &#xA;  I don't have a &quot;poker size&quot; card or ruler in front of me, so I don't know if the size you mention is actually &quot;poker size&quot; or if it's a &quot;Chinese&quot; (e.g. mistaken) poker size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I mean if he just tells me &quot;poker size&quot;, I still don't know the exact size because people in different countries play poker with different sized cards. Am I wrong? What does he mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user51225" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T15:01:37.380" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T16:23:58.397" Title="What does &quot;poker size cards&quot; mean?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13877" CreationDate="2013-12-24T05:07:03.483" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your customer is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing cards come in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playing_card#Sizes_and_weight&quot;&gt;two sizes&lt;/a&gt; - poker size and bridge size.  Poker size is 63.5mm X 88.9mm. Bridge size is narrower at 56mm x 88.9mm. This makes more sense in old fashioned imperial measurements - both are 3.5 inches high, but poker cards are 2.5 inches wide while bridge cards are 2.25 inches wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What your customer is saying is that he knows he wants poker size, but when you give measurements he doesn't know if that is poker size, bridge size, or some other size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6421" OwnerDisplayName="Roaring Fish" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-24T14:47:02.117" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T14:47:02.117" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13867" CreationDate="2013-12-24T09:55:08.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never played Pandemic solo so I've been hesitating waiting for a better answer, but as you have none...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd get the base game; you can always add later if you really enjoy it solo. Pandemic's base game is good anyway - it's not a game that &lt;em&gt;needs&lt;/em&gt; its expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're thinking of buying the set to save on future postage, then that's your call ;-)  It would not be a bad decision to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do buy the latest edition so any expansions you buy later match artistically.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'The Brink' expansion's main feature is to be able to play with 5/6 players, less relevant to you, though you do need it for 'In The Lab' (which I've not played, so I'll stop there :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T09:55:08.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2013-12-24T16:55:03.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found that a nice touch is to not shuffle the top stack of cards when mixing in the epidemic cards.  In the first stack, place the epidemic card at the bottom and shuffle the rest normally.  This just lets you get a leg up on the game at the beginning while leaving the rest of the game unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6416" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T16:55:03.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2013-12-24T17:27:18.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group feels that Pandemic is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13127/1315&quot;&gt;easier with fewer players&lt;/a&gt;, so as player count goes down we increase the epidemic count to maintain the challenge level.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other adjustments will depend on &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you think the difficulty changes.  In player counts that you consider harder, try dealing out multiple roles and letting players choose, or try choosing play order only after seeing roles and starting cards.  For player counts that you consider easier, reverse these decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Brink adds some variability and complexity.  I'm not sure if (after you get past the learning curve of any new variant) it adds &lt;em&gt;difficulty&lt;/em&gt;, but it might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T17:27:18.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3799" CreationDate="2013-12-24T21:12:29.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;5 letter Boggle. Minimum word length is 5 letters. You can try this with 6 or 7 letters too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6418" LastActivityDate="2013-12-24T21:12:29.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13728" CreationDate="2013-12-25T02:39:44.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;My groups have enjoyed having players always have two terrains from which to choose.  When you play one draw to replace it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T02:39:44.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11691" CreationDate="2013-12-25T02:44:35.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that graphical sense a really wonderful game that strikes me as similar is Yggdrasil.  It is Norse mythology based, cooperative, a good challenge, and pretty enough to be a poster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtKpi.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtKpi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Game shot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:32:36.967" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:32:36.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13701" CreationDate="2013-12-25T03:11:29.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the carnivore can't attack until the &quot;symbiont&quot; is fed, period.  In terms of the sensibility of a heavy carnivore depending on some small creature I think there might be some examples in nature. I could imagine the small animal alerting the large to food by its presence, or maybe even a small predator chasing prey into an area where large predators can feast.  Who knows what is possible, but if you can think it then David Attenborough can find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T03:11:29.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13180" CreationDate="2013-12-25T03:32:27.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can just sit down with a strategy as precise as knowing your end buildings and stay competitive against a more flexible player.  The game does not have a lot of randomness but the distribution of plantations does play a huge role on the rest of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's well balanced in the sense that if you are too out of control in one dimension then you are not giving the other dimensions enough attention and the other players should be able to exploit that.  Once you have a competitive advantage then by all means exploit it, but like most Euro games you should probably spend the first half building an engine and the second half running after VPs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, your engine will probably be built around selling, shipping, or building and each of them has big buildings which work best with them.  The wharf and/or harbor can be more powerful than one of those big buildings if used well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of defensive buying you have to decide if the person you are targeting is ahead of you and if you are in second by a wide margin.  The VP cost of the defensive purchase is the marginal difference in VPs between your ideal purchase and the one you are considering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6419" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T03:32:27.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13893" CreationDate="2013-12-25T06:19:12.110" Score="5" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ancient One Ithaqua's &quot;Icy Winds&quot; ability reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time an investigator uses either a unique item or a spell, he loses 1 stamina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unique item &quot;Healing Stone&quot; reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before rolling, discard to fully restore your stamina and sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my investigator has max 5 stamina and I use the Healing Stone, will my resulting stamina be 4 or 5? Additionally, can I use the Healing Stone if my investigator only has one stamina remaining?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T19:50:46.867" Title="How does Ithaqua's &quot;Icy Winds&quot; ability work with Healing Stone?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-25T07:39:21.387" Score="2" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;Auction: 1C - 1H - 1NT - ? (opener has 3 hearts, 12 pts ; responder has 5 hearts, 13 pts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of responder having 13+ pts yet lacking NT distribution, how does partnership get to game with 13+13 total points and 3+5 major fit, after 1NT rebid by opener? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. This is an unfinished question, I might edit it in the future to further elaborate my inquiry on partnership getting to game with 12+13 points by both partners and 1nt rebid by opener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S.2. The inquiry is about the very basics, as this page says: &lt;a href=&quot;http://larryco.com/BridgeArticles/ArticleDetails.aspx?articleID=462&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://larryco.com/BridgeArticles/ArticleDetails.aspx?articleID=462&lt;/a&gt; -- paraphrasing: &quot;The worst mistake I see: Not reaching game when there is enough for game.  If your partner opens the bidding and you have 14 points, please don't ever make any bid which your partner can pass&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5185" LastEditorUserId="5185" LastEditDate="2013-12-25T11:22:18.030" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T03:22:00.220" Title="Is responders suit change after 1NT rebid by opener forcing? (System: simplified SAYC)" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13888" CreationDate="2013-12-25T08:37:25.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/pdf/SAYC.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; outlines the system behind SAYC in fairly simple terms. The bottom of page 7 notes that on the auction of interest, responder must reverse or jump shift to create a &lt;em&gt;game force&lt;/em&gt;. However, a simple new suit bid should be treated as a one-round force, 10+, game invitational. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most established partnerships now play some form of either &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgehands.com/C/Checkback_Stayman.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check Back Stayman (CBS)&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgehands.com/N/New_Minor_Forcing.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New Minor Forcing (NMF)&lt;/a&gt;. Both of these are predicated on the requirement that Opener's 1NT rebid categorically denied 4-card support for Responder's major suit response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner rebid 1NT over your 1H response with 4-card Heart support, rightly take that as a gross insult to your card-play. Find a new partner promptly , before this one ruins your bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T08:37:25.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13652" CreationDate="2013-12-25T09:57:56.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the idea of the retreat system is to prevent you from passing a chamber by not killing a monster, we always play that you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; go back the way you came. In case a trap brought you to a chamber you probably had no intention to pass that chamber anyway, since you did not mean to go to that chamber. So passing without killing a monster is not relevant in this case. We allow the unlucky player who ended up in the trap and who didn't kill the monster in the chamber to choose the path of retreat. It's not like it's that much of an advantage since the player never really intended to enter that chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether there is any official rule on this matter but this approach seems logical to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T09:57:56.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-25T10:00:27.490" Score="3" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dungeon! a wizard must choose to use a spell, let's say lightning, &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the monster of a room is revealed. What happens if the monster is revealed and it appears to be immune to lightning, as shown by the &quot;-&quot; sign?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3107" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:05:41.910" Title="What happens if a wizard uses a spell against a monster that is immune to it?" Tags="|dungeon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13921" CreationDate="2013-12-25T11:54:27.187" Score="1" ViewCount="1618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got the Coup kickstarter edition, which included some promos for The Resistance - Merlin, Assassin and the Inquisitor tile.  But there are no rules for them.  I know they reimplement parts of Avalon, but I can't find the rules online for that.  How do they work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T18:43:33.493" Title="How to use the promo roles in the resistance?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13887" CreationDate="2013-12-25T19:50:46.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no official ruling, so you will have to house rule it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be some concern with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/723537/ffg-policy-on-rules-and-faqs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight Games slow FAQ&lt;/a&gt; releases and lack of designer feedback on rules clarifications. One do the designers, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/4819/richard-launius&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Richard Launius&lt;/a&gt;, has answered &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7537192#7537192&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;some questions&lt;/a&gt; sent directly to him, but they aren't considered official rules clarifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular question has been asked on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/58273-more-questions-after-2nd-playthrough/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFG forums&lt;/a&gt; (Q3), but without an official answer. The question is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/7839730#7839730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;also on BGG&lt;/a&gt;, but again lacks an official response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the revised rules&lt;/a&gt; nor the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; address the timing of the application of the Ancient One's (AO) abilities and Item effects. So, you have two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Apply the AO effect first&lt;/strong&gt;: This would mean that a &lt;strong&gt;Healing Stone&lt;/strong&gt; would restore your stamina to the maximum (5 in your example). It also means that if you are 1 stamina you would be devoured. Which means that while nothing in the rules prevent you from using the Healing Stone at &lt;strong&gt;1 Stamina&lt;/strong&gt;, you probably wouldn't for strategic reasons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Being Devoured&lt;/strong&gt; - If at any time an investigator loses sanity or stamina that causes him to drop to zero or less, he is devoured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an investigator is devoured, that player adds one doom token to the doom track and returns his investigator card and marker to the game box. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Apply the AO effect after the Item&lt;/strong&gt; - This would mean that &lt;strong&gt;Healing Stone&lt;/strong&gt; would restore your Stamina to the maximum minus one (4 in your example). It also means you have nothing to fear when using Healing Stone at 1 Stamina.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T19:50:46.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13894" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25779" CreationDate="2013-12-25T19:54:04.970" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be blind, but I can't seem to find any definition of &quot;isolation&quot; in the Third Reich (2nd edition) rulebook. I don't remember seeing it in my first edition book either, but that was a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The are a couple places places where the term is mentioned in the rules, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.7 Fortress ... Can't be taken by Attrition or Isolation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6422" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T22:28:04.757" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T22:28:04.757" Title="What defines &quot;Isolation&quot; in Third Reich?" Tags="|third-reich|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12557" CreationDate="2013-12-25T23:10:16.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;the journey is a complete set with all of the board, pieces, and rules, but if she is more Disney then abstract the pictures on this may just be a little more freighting then fun.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6423" LastActivityDate="2013-12-25T23:10:16.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8291" CreationDate="2013-12-26T01:42:48.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think that  - Charles dying and his ability triggering to kill the 3rd player - is a win condition for Charles. This is because any post-mortum win condition is explicitly stated (ie  - be the first to die / etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say this would set the precedent for whether or not someone can include their own death in a body count/ tally (if its not explicitly stated, the assumption should be that they died and can't win).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6424" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T01:42:48.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12613" CreationDate="2013-12-26T02:11:33.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest involve 4 heroes every campaign, regardless the players number, that will be fine, some veteran can handle more than one hero. If some new player join, he can pick any one from the four heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some variant in BGG forum can make this like a co-op game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1073436/converting-descent-into-a-soloco-op-dungeon-crawl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T02:11:33.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13927" CreationDate="2013-12-26T02:24:42.520" Score="3" ViewCount="7952" Body="&lt;p&gt;I lost 4 Saboteur path cards, and want to print my own versions as substitutes. However, I don't know which 4 cards I lost. How many of each type of path card are there in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I managed to find a Saboteur card breakdown image with a count of each type of card (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/180040/saboteur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my count based on that image.&#xA;Here is how to interpret the ASCII art: each card is represented by a 3x3 square, with &lt;code&gt;x&lt;/code&gt; denoting that part of the card is filled with rocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x x         x x         x x         xxx         xxx&#xA;x x = 4     x   = 5         = 5     x   = 4       x = 5&#xA;x x         x x         x x         x x         x x&#xA;&#xA;xxx         x x         x x         xxx         xxx&#xA;x x = 1      xx = 1      x  = 1     xx  = 1      xx = 1&#xA;x x         x x         x x         x x         x x&#xA;&#xA;xxx         x x         xxx&#xA;  x = 1         = 5         = 3&#xA;xxx         xxx         xxx&#xA;&#xA;x x         x x         xxx&#xA;xxx = 1         = 1      x  = 1&#xA;x x         xxx         xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives a total of 40 path cards. However, my manual indicates that there are 44 path cards, 27 action cards, 28 gold nugget cards, 7 miner cards and 4 saboteur cards. I only counted 40 path cards (excluding the start card with the ladder, and the 3 destination cards). Am I indeed missing 4 cards, or is the count given in the manual wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6425" LastEditorUserId="6425" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T22:17:06.380" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T22:17:06.380" Title="How many of each type of path cards are there in Saboteur?" Tags="|saboteur|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13903" CreationDate="2013-12-26T05:58:07.410" Score="7" ViewCount="7072" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played Firefly the board game for the first time. I ended up with a ship modification that made spare parts invalid, but I had about 6 of them in my cargo hold. I was on a supply planet and wanted to buy fuel, but all of my cargo and stash spots were full. I looked for any thing in the rule book that talked about selling the spare parts (or dumping them)...couldn't find anything. What's protocol for getting rid of fuel or parts to make space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5446" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T09:04:17.090" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T21:46:23.120" Title="Firefly - getting rid of parts (dumping cargo)?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13891" CreationDate="2013-12-26T09:06:43.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is treated the same as if they rolled a number that was too low.  They are defeated and suffer the usual consequences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are various different versions of the rules.  The ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/file/download/nmi11vs0k/New_Dungeon_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; show it on page 10, third paragraph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2013-12-26T16:01:18.547" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T16:01:18.547" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3167" CreationDate="2013-12-26T09:07:06.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just my own Experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought &lt;strong&gt;Innsmouth Horror&lt;/strong&gt; first because I want a large expansion and more investigators, personal stories also make base game's investigators more complex. I bought &lt;strong&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharaoh Revised Edition&lt;/strong&gt; later, they all added to the game early. My next target is &lt;strong&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;The Lurker at the Threshold&lt;/strong&gt;. Too may boards will make game more complex and last longer, but the &lt;em&gt;expansions' expansion&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;new gates&lt;/em&gt; will make old rules more fun. My final target is get them all, but I'm not at a hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T09:07:06.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2013-12-26T11:39:44.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My rulebook index has &quot;Isolation (out of supply units)&quot; and a reference to the rule that units that both started and finished the turn unsupplied are eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would think &#xA;&lt;em&gt;isolated&lt;/em&gt; is a shorter way of saying &lt;em&gt;out of supply&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T11:39:44.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13899" CreationDate="2013-12-26T14:42:07.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fireflythegame.com/howtoplay/FAQ.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: How do I get rid of stuff on my ship I don’t need or want anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: On your turn, you may dump Fuel, Parts, Cargo or Contraband at any time. You may drop Fugitives and Passengers off in any sector with a Planet. You can’t toss them out the air-lock in deep space! This does not use an Action and can be done during another Action, on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have the option to trade with other players. From the rules,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two or more players’ ships are stopped in the same Sector, players may buy, sell and trade Crew, Fuel, Parts, Cargo, Contraband, Ship Upgrades and Gear to one another without restriction. Players are free to discuss and make these deals outside of the normal turn order and other players may take their normal turn while bargains are struck. Dealing with others players in this fashion does not require using an Action. The opportunity for Trading ends when one of the players leaves the sector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be any option of selling back to the house, but we house-ruled they can be sold off at half-price at Suppliers. This has allowed people that would otherwise have been eliminated from the game to keep on playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T20:13:02.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13905" CreationDate="2013-12-26T16:17:02.690" Score="0" ViewCount="2151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was battling my brother recently. He had a purely green deck, and summoned &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anthousa%2C%20Setessan%20Hero&quot;&gt;Anthousa, Setessan Hero&lt;/a&gt;. I then used a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373499&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Viper's Curse&lt;/a&gt; on Anthousa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthousa has a heroic effect that allows it to turn lands into attackers whenever a spell targets it, but Viper's Curse prevents effects from being activated. So, does the heroic ability get activated or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T04:32:57.797" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T04:32:57.797" Title="Effect of Viper's Kiss on Heroic creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13904" CreationDate="2013-12-26T16:24:15.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viper%20Kiss&quot;&gt;Viper Kiss&lt;/a&gt; only prevents activated abilities, ones that contain a &lt;code&gt;:&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anthousa%2C%20Setessan%20Hero&quot;&gt;Anthousa, Setessan Hero&lt;/a&gt; has a triggered ability, since it contains &amp;quot;whenever&amp;quot;, this is a different kind of ability and is thus not affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viper%20Kiss&quot;&gt;Viper Kiss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T16:24:15.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13909" CreationDate="2013-12-26T20:56:39.493" Score="1" ViewCount="1307" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Background: this was previously part of a longer question which has been edited into multiple smaller questions. I’ve already researched selling Magic cards, including reading through &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3161/how-do-i-find-out-a-fair-price-for-my-magic-the-gathering-cards&quot;&gt;How do I find out a fair price for my Magic the Gathering cards?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5458/where-can-i-sell-my-magic-the-gathering-cards&quot;&gt;Where can I sell my Magic: The Gathering cards?&lt;/a&gt;, and am getting into finer detail.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: I’ve divided my cards by rarity and I'm now deciding between selling the Rares individually or in small groups. My plan is to start with individual sales and then group the unsold Rares. Any suggestions for what these groupings should be, such as Color or Expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T20:08:38.297" Title="How should I group rare Magic cards when selling them online?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2013-12-28T18:55:37.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13904" CreationDate="2013-12-26T22:37:59.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you are casting &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ths/en/109.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viper's Kiss&lt;/a&gt; on your opponent's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ths/en/149.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anthousa&lt;/a&gt;, the heroic ability will not trigger, but this has nothing to do with the effects of Viper's Kiss.  Anthousa's ability begins &quot;Whenever &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; cast a spell that targets Anthousa, Setessan Hero, ...&quot; (emphasis added), where &quot;you&quot; refers only to Anthousa's controller*, which is not the player who is casting Viper's Kiss, and so Anthousa's ability won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, a player casts Viper's Kiss on his/her own Anthousa, heroic &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; trigger, but whether the Aura stops triggered abilities or not is moot; the triggered ability triggers while the Aura is still on the stack, and thus not affecting Anthousa yet, and so even if Viper's Kiss prevented triggered abilities from triggering (which it doesn't, and which I don't think any Aura does anyway), it would be too early to stop the heroics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.5. The words &quot;you&quot; and &quot;your&quot; on an object refer to the object's controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it's on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it's a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d-f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T22:37:59.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13907" CreationDate="2013-12-26T23:21:57.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Primarily, you need to judge how much your time is worth. In the general case, you can get more money per card by selling them as singles, or as small groups (such as playsets of 4). However, that will take a lot of time, especially for a large collection. Dumping your whole collection at your LGS for a bulk price is extremely quick and easy, but you're not going to get anywhere near as much money as selling each card individually online... but making all of those online sales will take a long time and require a lot of effort. (Shipping costs should also be considered.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rares and old &lt;em&gt;desirable&lt;/em&gt; cards are more liquid, meaning it's easy to find someone willing to buy them, which means less time and effort spent selling them. Foils may or may not be liquid, depending on the cards in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not recommend trying to sell loose old packs over the internet. In the very oldest sets, it is possible to determine the exact contents of the pack before opening it, meaning the savvy buyers will refuse to purchase any packaged old cards unless they're in a factory-sealed box/case. (The assumption being that the seller has determined the pack contains nothing of worth already.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the sets new enough where that isn't possible, box mapping has been a thing for years, so a seller could pull out all of the worthwhile packs from a box before selling the rest; Wizards has made efforts to counteract this over the years, but they have only really been effective in the most recent sets (roughly Avacyn and onwards -- mapping is still possible, but it is no longer financially beneficial). The possibility of repacks also makes online buyers wary of purchasing loose packs from older sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2013-12-26T23:21:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13999" CreationDate="2013-12-26T23:35:36.580" Score="-1" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most games, such as chess, Monopoly, or Puerto Rico, I buy a game set with a specified board configuration, and specific cards and pieces in specific quantities (e.g.28 title deeds, 32 houses and 12 hotels in Monopoly) for a specified price. (And if I lose something, I can create a facsimile of it to represent the original).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In certain games, such as Magic, the Gathering, on the other hand, the number and type of cards are variable. It is seems like if you have ten different players, you might have ten different sets of cards. So a game enthusiast might buy a lot of card sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once someone has a general idea what kind of deck they want to build, how do they decide when a collection is &quot;playworthy&quot; enough to stop buying more cards? Assume that they have enough money to &quot;buy what they want,&quot; but not to &quot;throw away.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-02-17T11:45:25.243" LastActivityDate="2020-02-17T11:45:25.243" Title="How do people decide a Magic deck is &quot;done&quot; and playworthy once they have a general starting point?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="23" ClosedDate="2014-04-16T20:29:49.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13910" CreationDate="2013-12-27T00:07:01.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have ten players, you'll almost certainly have ten different decks, unless some of you are working off of published decklists. As new sets are released, the &quot;meta&quot; of tournament play changes, making different combinations and overall strategies more or less effective, but the meta tends to coalesce fairly quickly on a small number of competitive deck-types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing serious Magic, it will be important to work toward one of these competitive variants. However, if you're just playing with friends, the meta of your playgroup may be quite different. You'll want to build decks that are effective in your group's meta: for example, if your group is creature-heavy, you'll need more answers for creatures than you might in a playgroup that tends to play with control decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is certainly necessary to understand your deck in order to play it effectively, but that doesn't mean you're better off with your deck than your opponents'; they may have built much better decks than yours!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to knowing when you're done: in some sense, you'll never be done. You'll discover new techniques, get interesting new cards, etc, and change your deck(s). But you'll want to aim toward a point where you and your friends are playing each other closely -- if your friends are always beating you badly, you'll need to change things up. On the other hand, if you're always beating your friends, maybe stop spending quite so much to keep it fun for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T00:07:01.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11691" CreationDate="2013-12-27T03:00:42.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also Tannhauser from Fantasy Flight Games. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25261/tannhauser&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt; for some pics of the boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5789" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T03:00:42.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2013-12-27T03:09:20.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find anywhere in the rules that defines &quot;isolation&quot;.  But the rule on Fortresses (4.8) does say that units in them &quot;can't be eliminated due to supply.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T03:09:20.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13868" CreationDate="2013-12-27T03:52:19.083" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given 3 players and the dealer... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And assuming all hands are dealt face up except for the dealer's, and the dealer's is face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone starts knowing 7 cards. 2 per player, plus 1 of the dealer's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 knows only 7 at his turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 knows between 7 and 12† at his turn, usually 8-9. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 3 knows between 7 and 17† at his turn, usually 9-11.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player is at a table dealt from a single deck, roughly and typically: player 1 knows about 1/7th the deck, player 2 knows about 1/6th, player 3 knows about 1/5th, without &quot;card counting&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;given a 4 player table, everyone starts knowing 9 of the cards, and typically adds 1-3 cards per player playing before him, weighted somewhat low (due to the number of face cards). Player 4 can end up knowing up to 18 cards (1/3 of the deck) before play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the now standard dealing from a shoe, the advantage is much reduced. A shoe with 5 decks reduces the comparative advantage drastically, unless the player is card-counting from prior hands.  If the dealer or the pit-boss suspects counting from hand to hand, the player may be asked to leave the table, or even the establishment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;† Many places limit draws to 5 cards; some even call a non-pust after 5 draws a win. Also, splits can result in extra hands on the table, increasing player 3's knowledge of the conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T03:52:19.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13892" CreationDate="2013-12-27T18:43:33.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules found on the Coup kickstarter page which included these promos:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2012515236/coup-bluff-and-deception-in-the-world-of-the-resis/posts/694256&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2012515236/coup-bluff-and-deception-in-the-world-of-the-resis/posts/694256&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T18:43:33.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-27T19:59:10.307" Score="2" ViewCount="6691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was given Phase 10 Twist as a gift.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the rules seem straight forward enough, but when trying to play it I'm confused on one point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There came a time I laid down a phase and had 5 cards left. When my turn came I drew one card and discarded one as you are supposed to, but I still only had 5 cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How am I supposed to get enough cards to complete the next phase if every time I have to draw one card and discard one?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules aren't making any sense on that to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6435" LastEditorUserId="24175" LastEditDate="2020-02-26T17:51:55.347" LastActivityDate="2020-02-26T17:51:55.347" Title="Phase 10 Twist, If I lay down a phase how will I get enough cards to continue?" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13922" CreationDate="2013-12-27T20:30:00.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you complete a phase you must get rid of all the cards in your hand by hitting on existing Phases and discarding cards you can't play. Once someone who has completed a phase runs out of cards the hand is over and all the cards are dealt out again and players who completed the Phase can move on to the next Phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T20:30:00.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13907" CreationDate="2013-12-27T20:45:18.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how much time you want to spend on this. Selling the cards one by one is the best way to get the more money out of your cards. But if you have for example 2000 cheap commons, it would take a lot of time to list those to maybe get only a few more pennies out of each cards (which may still be worth it for you at the end).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like to just split up my cards into 3 piles: cheap (&amp;lt; $1.00), average and valuable (&gt; $10.00). I usually only take the time to list the most worth cards (cards that are actually either played a lot or rarities) and sell all the others for a bulk price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would probably be a great idea to do a separate pile for your foil cards (especially the cheap foils) because some players/collectors really look for those and you could get a better value out of those by selling all your cheap common/uncommon foils together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6002" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T20:45:18.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13925" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2013-12-27T21:53:15.390" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T21:53:15.390" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T21:53:15.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13926" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2013-12-27T21:53:15.390" Score="0" Body="'Rise and Fall of the Third Reich&quot;, a grand strategic wargame by Avalon Hill:; one of their classics." OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T05:07:33.033" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T05:07:33.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13898" CreationDate="2013-12-27T22:00:17.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not missing any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the treasure card (&quot;la carte Arrivée avec le trésor&quot;) and the rock cards (&quot;les cartes Arrivée avec des pierres&quot;) and the starting card (&quot;carte de départ&quot;) are not listed in the contents. There are 40 &quot;normal&quot; path cards, or 44 when you include those four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-27T22:05:25.767" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T22:05:25.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2013-12-27T22:29:57.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this will give an RSS feed but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chess.com&lt;/a&gt; has a daily puzzle along with 3 targeted tactical problems per day for free users. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2013-12-27T22:29:57.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13930" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-27T22:50:35.677" Score="3" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lighthouse in Dominion:Seaside costs only 2 yet is a duration card that provides +1 Action on the first turn and +1 coin per turn it is active. On top of that it provides protection against any attack cards while it activated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me this is an incredibly powerful card for being worth only 2. If backed up by a couple higher coin you could easily get 8 coin and buy provinces. All the while you are protected from any immediate threats. The main advantage IMO is gained from having +1 each turn. This adds a lot to a players buying power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what can you do to stop someone from abusing this card? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T02:34:08.817" Title="Is Lighthouse from Dominion: Seaside overpowered?" Tags="|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13930" CreationDate="2013-12-27T23:09:17.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are tons of attacks, sure, it's pretty useful. But setting aside the defense (which often isn't relevant), the coin it provides isn't really terribly powerful, so no, it's not at all overpowered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically a copper that gives you one more coin the next turn. In order to get that extra coin you had to add a copper to your deck - the turn you play Lighthouse one of your five cards only gets you one coin. A silver generally does more for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you don't really have to do anything to keep people from abusing it. Just buy bigger better cards. You can do a lot better than +1 coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T00:55:25.753" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T00:55:25.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-28T00:45:35.310" Score="1" ViewCount="2778" Body="&lt;p&gt;Special Events cards can be used at any time, even if it is not your turn, and many of them begin with &quot;The current player may&quot;, e.g. Borrowed Time, Re-Examine Research, Mobile Hospital, Special Orders, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they be used to benefit another player, not the owner of the Special Events card, if I play the Special Event on someone else's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6440" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T06:17:34.583" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T15:53:12.837" Title="Can a Special Event be used to help another player during their turn?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13932" CreationDate="2013-12-28T00:59:18.377" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can play special events on other players' turns, and &quot;current player&quot; means the player whose turn it currently is. The rulebook says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These cards may be played at any time (even on a fellow player's turn)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why they say &quot;current player&quot; not &quot;you&quot;, and explicitly say you can play them any time, not just on your turn. Being able to use them to benefit any player is really the point. They'd be pretty weak without that flexibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T15:53:12.837" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T15:53:12.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13930" CreationDate="2013-12-28T02:34:08.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lighthouse only provides $2 per time you play it: $1 this turn, and $1 the next. This is comparable to the $2 from a Silver. In some ways it is problematic: having the $2 be split across two turns is usually worse than having it in one spike; and it can be &quot;drawn dead&quot; with a card like Smithy. Also, Lighthouse shares the common disadvantage to Duration cards that it won't be shuffled into your deck if it happens to be in play when you shuffle. The compensation, of course, is protection from attacks, which can be invaluable if there are powerful attacks around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are powerful attacks in the Kingdom, Lighthouse is an important card that blunts the effectiveness of attacks and importance of those cards. If there are no worthwhile attacks, Lighthouse is usually an unimportant card and most decks would be better off with Silver or another card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T02:34:08.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13937" CreationDate="2013-12-28T03:50:41.130" Score="4" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was a 16 square playing board.  Each piece was a clear rectangle 1 wide, 2 tall.  Each piece had a red and yellow ball in the center encased in a transparent box.  The object was to get 4 in a row.  Everytime you played a piece, you also laid one down for your opponent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6442" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T06:13:54.813" Title="What's this 3D game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13936" CreationDate="2013-12-28T06:13:54.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/615/cube-fusion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cube Fusion&lt;/a&gt; variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game includes a playing board with a 5x5 grid and 12 playing pieces. Each piece consists of two cubes, each with marbles in the center - one red, one green. Players take turns placing pieces on the board, trying to make a specified pattern in his color but not his opponent's -- all the while having to play both his color and his opponent's color each turn. There are several different games explained in the rules: make 3, 4, or 5 in a row (in 3D) before your opponent, form a square in your color, form more three-in-a-row alignments than your opponent, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know the board is 5x5, although there are rules for 4x4. Picture is of Double Decker, one of the repackagings of this game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9u2iF.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T06:13:54.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13939" CreationDate="2013-12-28T08:21:16.300" Score="5" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=698&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Power Grid rules&lt;/a&gt; we are told the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-supply the resource market: Based on the number of players and the&#xA;step of the game, the players re-supply the resource market (see table&#xA;at the back of the rules) from the supply of resources. They start&#xA;placing the resources on the highest (most expensive) space lacking&#xA;the maximum possible quantity of the appropriate resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exception:&#xA;Uranium must be refilled from space 16 and always only with one token&#xA;in each space.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that if the rate of uranium resupply is 3, none is re-supplied if there are already 3 uraniums in the market? If only one uranium is left on 16, 2 would be added and not 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6443" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T14:14:35.540" Title="What does it mean that uranium always refills from space 16?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13938" CreationDate="2013-12-28T13:49:55.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook is confusingly worded. The &quot;Exception&quot; is calling out a graphical peculiarity, not a rules difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The resupply for Uranium works the same as for every other resource: you take the specified number of units and place them on the most expensive slots available.&lt;/strong&gt; This exception is calling your notice to the fact that there are four extra Uranium slots that do not share one of the large square blocks with Coal/Oil/Garbage, and that once those are full, there is only one slot for Uranium in each of those square blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that this is the case in the example immediately after your quote on p. 6 of the rulebook. The market begins with 2 Uranium on 14 and 16. The table calls for 2 Uranium to be placed, and those are placed on the 12 and 10.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastEditorUserId="3278" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T14:14:35.540" LastActivityDate="2013-12-28T14:14:35.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21190" CreationDate="2013-12-28T14:46:21.443" Score="3" ViewCount="133" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39242/black-friday&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black Friday&lt;/a&gt;, when all three sales tables on the right have been used up, &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_374_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt; says to reload table 2 and use that one for the rest of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After all markers are adjusted, he places the drawn briefcases in the market. The player places all colored briefcases from the table that initiated the price adjustment into the bag. If a sales table initiated the adjustment, the players place the black briefcases from this table in the bag, too. &lt;strong&gt;Then, the players use the next sales table.&lt;/strong&gt; After the third sales table is cleared, the players load the second sales table. When that is cleared, &lt;strong&gt;they load the second again and will continue to reload the second table&lt;/strong&gt; for the remainder of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where are the briefcases taken from to reload this table - The market or the bag?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-12-28T16:54:21.933" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T10:07:25.167" Title="Where to take briefcases from?" Tags="|black-friday|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13239" CreationDate="2013-12-28T15:53:25.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a web page that you can use to score any cribbage hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, here is your specific hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score?cardsText=6S,6D,6H,7S,8D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score?cardsText=6S,6D,6H,7S,8D&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page is really cool because it shows a list of all scoring combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Scoring Details&#xA;15 Count    7S,8D       2&#xA;Pairs       6H,6S,6D    6&#xA;Straights   6S,7S,8D    9&#xA;            6D,7S,8D    &#xA;            6H,7S,8D    &#xA;Jack                    0&#xA;Flush                   0&#xA;Total                   17&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6397" LastEditorUserId="6397" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T17:48:37.880" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T17:48:37.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13237" CreationDate="2013-12-28T15:59:31.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a web page that you can use to score any cribbage hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, here is your specific hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score?cardsText=1D,1H,1S,7D,7S&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage/score?cardsText=1D,1H,1S,7D,7S&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page is really cool because it shows a list of all scoring combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Scoring Details&#xA;15 Count    1H,7S,7D    6&#xA;            1S,7S,7D    &#xA;            1D,7S,7D    &#xA;Pairs       1H,1S,1D    8&#xA;            7S,7D&#xA;Straights               0&#xA;Jack                    0&#xA;Flush                   0&#xA;Total                   14&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6397" LastEditorUserId="6397" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T17:46:12.903" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T17:46:12.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14964" CreationDate="2013-12-28T17:38:15.837" Score="4" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Superhuman Durability&lt;/strong&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Legacy would be dealt 5 or more damage from a single source, reduce that damage by 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fortitude&lt;/strong&gt; reads :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reduce damage dealt to Legacy by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_rules_and_clarifications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;unofficial FAQ&lt;/a&gt; mentions that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Further, “&lt;strong&gt;Triggered effects&lt;/strong&gt;” from cards (e.g. “when this card is destroyed”, “whenever this card takes damage”, etc.) are processed immediately upon the fulfillment of the trigger condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://greaterthangames.com/comment/38236#comment-38236&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hotly debated issue&lt;/a&gt;, on the Greater Than Games forum, and I cannot seem to find a link to an official response. &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/system/files/downloads/Sentinels%20of%20the%20Multiverse%20Enhanced%20Edition%20Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; offer no clarity on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the official way to handle these cards interactions?&lt;/strong&gt; (I.e. If &lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt; is targeted for 5 damage, does he take 4 damage because &lt;strong&gt;Fortitude&lt;/strong&gt; reduction happens first, or does he take 2 damage because &lt;strong&gt;Superhuman Duribility&lt;/strong&gt; applies first? Does it matter which card came out first, if Fortitude is considered triggered, etc.?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T09:30:47.283" Title="Does Legacy's Super-human Durability and Fortitude interact?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-28T19:15:56.607" Score="1" ViewCount="971" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are a bit confused by how ability attacks work in Mice and Mystics, and in particular how they interact with equipped items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our Maginos has the ability Mystic Bolt, which states (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may use this ability instead of performing a normal battle action. Choose a minion ... [who] is attacked by this mouse &lt;strong&gt;with a ranged attack. The battle value of that attack is equal to this mouse's lore&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our Maginos is also equipped with an Enchanted Bow, which grants +1 to ranged attacks and has the text (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first time this mouse attacks &lt;strong&gt;with this bow&lt;/strong&gt; on a turn, if any [Bow w/ Star Symbol] were rolled in that attack, this mouse may attack 1 additional time with this bow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Maginos has a lore of 3, so if he uses the Mystic Bolt ability clearly the battle value will be 3.  The question is: how do we perform this attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll 3 dice, hoping to roll [Bow Symbol]s?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll 4 dice instead of 3 due to the +1 from the Enchanted Bow?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignore dice completely and just count it as an attack that hits for 3?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if we do roll dice, does the special text from the Enchanted Bow (about sometimes making a second attack) come into play, and if so, how does the extra attack work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T10:14:00.447" Title="How is my mouse's ability attack resolved?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13961" CreationDate="2013-12-28T19:22:21.383" Score="6" ViewCount="3136" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Mice and Mystic's Maginos is equipped with &lt;em&gt;Maginos' Staff&lt;/em&gt;, it is normally a ranged weapon with +1 to ranged attacks.  Paired with Maginos's battle value of 1, it seems for normal ranged attacks we should roll 2 dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;em&gt;Maginos' Staff&lt;/em&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When attacking a figure that is on the same space as this mouse, this staff is considered a blunt melee weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does that mean for attacks made by Maginos against enemies in the same space?  Does he roll 2 dice?  Or does he only roll 1 die, because the staff only grants +1 ranged but not +1 melee?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T00:15:46.027" Title="How do we use Maginos's staff if it's a blunt melee weapon?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13947" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13951" CreationDate="2013-12-28T19:48:51.727" Score="6" ViewCount="1532" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mice and Mystics, we entered a tile and had an encounter which dropped several rats and a spider (which is large).  On the very first turn, the minions ended up defending against an attack and rolling another cheese, triggering a surge, which was a centipede (which is also large).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Large minions are supposed to be the only things that fit on their spaces, but unfortunately every minion entry space was already occupied (either by our mice, rats, or the spider).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should we do with this newly spawned centipede when he can't fit anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(What we ended up doing was having him eat a rat and take the rat's spot, but we were looking for something a little more official.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:15:23.973" Title="What do we do if we need to place a large minion and all minion entry spaces are occupied?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13955" CreationDate="2013-12-28T19:51:49.210" Score="6" ViewCount="3734" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mice and Mystics, I understand that encounter cards are intended to be flipped when the mice enter a tile for the first time &lt;em&gt;and that tile does not have a special encounter&lt;/em&gt;.  I also understand that the encounter card is supposed to be discarded when there's a surge &lt;em&gt;and that tile does not have a special surge&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other times when encounter cards are flipped or discarded?  For example, what if we have not actually had a surge and we go to a new tile, which has a special encounter?  Should the previous encounter card be discarded?  Similarly, what if we have a surge on a tile that has a special surge, but we already have an encounter card present?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T08:02:50.350" Title="When are Mice and Mystics encounter cards flipped &amp; discarded?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-28T22:10:03.400" Score="5" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group of friends have now played almost a few dozen games of Dungeon! and we have consistently noticed that the Cleric wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Cleric has a target of 10,000 and works very well across all levels till level 4.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Rogue has a small target too, but it cannot perform very well beyond level 3.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Fighter has a larger target of 20,000, but can perform as well as the Cleric (till about level 4). It gets difficult in level 5 or 6.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Wizard has a very high target of 30,000, so its best bet is level 5 or 6 to gain a lot of treasure very fast.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I am not sure if the game is biased towards the Cleric - any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T04:31:07.110" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T13:09:08.930" Title="Is Dungeon! biased towards the Cleric?" Tags="|mechanics|dungeon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2013-12-29T03:24:13.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played the game for the first time the other day and after three rounds of it here's what I found. My first combo which I picked because I liked the sound of it was Ninja Dinosaurs. It didn't work too well, and quite frankly I found the Ninja Deck difficult to use. The second Combo I had was Pirate Leprechauns - this was a VERY powerful combination. When facing them, I also found that a good counter to them in 1v1 is Wizard Aliens, though you do need to be on the ball to pull it off well and not hold out too long playing certain cards or you might miss your chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6452" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T03:24:13.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13947" CreationDate="2013-12-29T05:15:23.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree, it isn't completely clear from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmrulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; what to do. Page 14 covers, &lt;strong&gt;Placing Minions on the Board&lt;/strong&gt;, and notes to add new Minions to (not full) minion entry spaces. Luckily, the designer, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/nobeerblues&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jerry Hawthorne&lt;/a&gt;, responded to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/10427173#10427173&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that question&lt;/a&gt; on BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: We had a situation where a surge called for a centipede, but every spawn space was taken by either a small monster or a mouse. We just didn't spawn the centipede because it couldn't &amp;quot;fit&amp;quot; in any space; was that correct?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: That is correct.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T05:15:23.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-29T05:21:15.290" Score="2" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some experience playing Italy has shown me that attacking France can be quite difficult. If France has a unit in Marseilles, the only way to break through is to bring a fleet to the Gulf of Lyon, which usually takes over a year (it takes a similar length of time to even get a shot at Spain). Since a unit in Piedmont can do little more than bounce in Marseilles, I generally forgo moving there at all, preferring to focus on my Eastern front as long as I'm not worried about a French Invasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this usually the best choice? As Italy, when &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; I attack France? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T15:13:48.057" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T00:13:15.997" Title="As Italy, when is it profitable to attack France?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13954" CreationDate="2013-12-29T05:47:04.440" Score="2" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;In SAYC, what does doubling a 2-level weak jump overcall mean?  For example, the bidding sequence: 1♣ - 2♠ - double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a negative double,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a penalty double,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a show of spade control, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What distribution and values does it promise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6454" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T06:55:58.113" Title="In SAYC, what does doubling a 2-level weak jump overcall mean?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13953" CreationDate="2013-12-29T06:55:58.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/sayc_card.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This filled out convention card for SAYC&lt;/a&gt; indicates that negative doubles are played through 2S. By this agreement (which could be amended by partnership agreement, but which invalidate the claim to be playing &lt;em&gt;pure&lt;/em&gt; SAYC) the double of a 2S jump overcall is a Negative Double. This bid should indicate 4+ hearts and game invitational values (10+ points), and generally deny any particular strength in spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the jump overcall were above the level of 2S, such as in the auction  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1H - 3D - double,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it wold be a penalty double showing diamonds and suggesting the collection of a penalty against a 3D contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T06:55:58.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13948" CreationDate="2013-12-29T08:02:50.350" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if we have not actually had a surge and we go to a new tile, which has a special encounter, should the previous encounter card be discarded?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the previous encounter card is discarded. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmrulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Encounters&lt;/strong&gt; - Each time a mouse explores an area that has not already been explored during that chapter, the mice will have an encounter. &lt;strong&gt;Unless otherwise stated in the chapter being played, draw a card from the encounter deck&lt;/strong&gt;. Each encounter card has multiple potential encounters based on how far the chapter has progressed. Use the encounter that matches the page space that the hourglass marker currently occupies on the story control board. Place the new minions using the placement rules below, then determine an initiative order. Once the minions are placed, place the encounter card face-up on top of the encounter deck. &lt;strong&gt;If there is still an encounter card face up from a previous encounter, discard the old card&lt;/strong&gt;. This new face-up encounter card will now determine the next non-chapter-specific surge effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if we have a surge on a tile that has a special surge, but we already have an encounter card present?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You perform the special encounter, but you don't discard the encounter card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Room tile rules: some room tiles that are being used in a chapter will have specific rules that apply to that room. Each room tile that has special instructions [...] or special surges that instruct players on what minion(s) to place when a surge happens in that room (&lt;strong&gt;special surges take place instead of a surge listed on an encounter card&lt;/strong&gt;). (page 5, &lt;strong&gt;Story Book&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Step 3] If there are no chapter-specific surge instructions, follow the surge effect on the face-up encounter card that is on the encounter deck and then discard that card. (page 15, &lt;strong&gt;Surges&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T08:02:50.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-29T08:42:27.017" Score="-1" ViewCount="8749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing MtG for a while and recently came across protection from everything. It occurred to me: can two creatures with protection from everything block each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, can a blue creature with protection from red be blocked by a red creature with protection from blue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6456" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T13:12:46.040" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T19:45:49.880" Title="Do two creatures with protection from each other cancel out each others' protection?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-01-03T21:58:20.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13946" CreationDate="2013-12-29T09:32:00.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule book says that you add as many dice as the bonus of your chosen weapon to your base attack. It does not specify to discern between a ranged bonus or melee bonus in this case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maginos' Staff has this feature in favor of the player: with a melee attack, you have a chance of 3/6 of rolling a successful attack, instead of 2/6 in a ranged attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also this means that you cannot cast a ranged spell on an enemy on your own space. Instead you beat it with the staff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Source for the +1 in Melee: MM FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmfaq.pdf&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastEditorUserId="6146" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T23:31:40.260" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T23:31:40.260" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13945" CreationDate="2013-12-29T09:34:33.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Mystic Bolt you roll three dice an perform a ranged attack, i.e. you want to roll bow and arrow symbols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bonus from the Enchanted Bow only applies, if you attack using the enchanted bow, and not Maginos' Staff, e.g. by casting said Mystic Bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T09:34:33.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13956" CreationDate="2013-12-29T13:10:55.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. If two creatures have protection from each other, they still cannot block each other or bypass each others' protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature has protection from red, that means only that it can't be DEBT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt; ealt damage by red sources&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt; nchanted, equipped or fortified with red auras, equipment or fortifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; locked by red creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; argeted by red spells or abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's it. Protection falls under none of these criteria, and so is not itself protected against by protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection from everything means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.16i:&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Protection from everything&quot; is a variant of the protection ability. A permanent with protection from everything has protection from each object regardless of that object's characteristic values. Such a permanent can't be targeted by spells or abilities, enchanted by Auras, equipped by Equipment, fortified by Fortifications, or blocked by creatures, and all damage that would be dealt to it is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... which still doesn't cover the protection ability itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-29T19:45:49.880" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T19:45:49.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13946" CreationDate="2013-12-29T16:05:33.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You roll 2 dice and must use a melee attack to attack a minion in the same space with the staff.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section you quoted is the cards &lt;strong&gt;Ability&lt;/strong&gt;. (page 4 pdf, page 2 rule book)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4) Ability: any special rules that apply to the card are described here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That special rule requires that you may only use it to perform melee attacks on minions in your same space, but normally the rules do not prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Item bonuses add to the number of dice you roll when performing a specific type of attack. Ranged attacks count bow symbols as hits, melee attacks count sword symbols as hits. Nothing in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmrulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; prevents you from using a ranged attack on a minion in the same space as your mouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Melee Attack&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] Then roll a number of action dice equal to that mouse’s battle value. Remember to &lt;strong&gt;add any bonuses that the mouse’s items or equipped weapons might give it&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ranged attack&lt;/strong&gt; - If a mouse is armed with a ranged weapon or spell, it can perform a ranged attack. Ranged attacks are performed in the same way as melee attacks, &lt;strong&gt;except each bow symbol counts as a hit instead of the sword or sword/&#xA;  shield symbol&lt;/strong&gt;. Also, when selecting a target for the attack, a player can select any minion on the same room tile as the attacking mouse as long as that mouse can ‘see’ the target. However, &lt;strong&gt;if there are minions in the same or adjacent space as the mouse, one of those nearby minions must be selected as the target of the attack.&lt;/strong&gt; (page 13 pdf, page 11 rule book)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/mice-and-mystics/mmfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; and the designer &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9355581#9355581&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;further clarified&lt;/a&gt; that Maginos gets the +1 from the staff regardless of whether he is performing a melee or ranged attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1.1.5: When attacking a minion in the same space using Maginos' staff, do you still get the bonus listed on the card for a ranged attack?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: Yes, just imagine that the bow changes into a sword any time Maginos shares a space with minions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: about maginos' staff. It has a +1 on top of a range symbol in the top corner. Does the staff still give a bonus to melee combat, or only to ranged because that's what the +1 is over?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: It adds to his battle any time he uses it to do a battle action. The +1 just signifies that it is a bonus to his battle, the bow shows that it hits on bows and can be used at a distance. The weapon special ability breaks this rule a bit and allows him to hit on swords/sword shields when attacking an enemy in the same space. Usually, when you use a ranged weapon, it only hits on bows even if you use it on an enemy in the same or adjacent space.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T00:15:46.027" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T00:15:46.027" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13952" CreationDate="2013-12-29T16:20:38.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply, when it is a commitment required of (or an opportunity provided by) your best possible alliance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the tactical situations are not irrelevant in &lt;strong&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/strong&gt;, they should always be regarded as secondary to the choice of allies and alliances. Any country can win, and one should regard the game as more akin to &lt;strong&gt;Survivor&lt;/strong&gt; than to a typical strategy board game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assess the credibility, veracity and trustworthiness of the players who are offering you alliances, always bearing in mind that if it sounds too good to be true, it certainly is. Investigate, as best you can, the behaviour of your potential allies in previous games as part of assessing their credibility, veracity and trustworthiness. Remember that the strategic assessment of other players should be performed differently in a one-off game, as compared to a single game played as part of a tournament. In the latter case players know that their behaviour in early games will affect their ability to make alliances in later games; but that tis effect wears off slowly as the series continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T16:20:38.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13965" CreationDate="2013-12-29T18:20:26.627" Score="3" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the &lt;strong&gt;UK &amp;amp; Ireland / Northern Europe&lt;/strong&gt; expansion map, the town of Newport has no &lt;code&gt;10 15 20&lt;/code&gt; pricing.  The Expansion rules sheet makes no mention of this place having any special meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume this is simply a misprint rather than that these sites are 'free' to occupy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T19:08:12.647" Title="Newport has no costs on UK PowerGrid map - A misprint?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13969" CreationDate="2013-12-29T19:01:19.230" Score="2" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are playing 15-17 point no trumps, five card majors, four card diamond bids, and three card club bids listed on many convention cards. And you have an unusual 14 high card point 4-4-3-2 hand that basically violates all the rules, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) QJTx (h) QJxx (d) KQx (c) Kx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Give me another T (or even a 9) in one of the major suits, and I might consider this a &quot;weak&quot; 15 for 1NT. Upgrade my spade Q to a K (and compensate by downgrading K of clubs to Q of clubs), and I would consider bidding a &quot;strong&quot; four card major. But as the hand stands, I wouldn't do either of these things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would most people do? Perhaps a three-card one diamond is the least of evils? Or would &quot;pass&quot; be a viable option, even though most people wouldn't pass 14 point hands? (Downgrade one of kings to a Q, and I'd pass the resulting 13- point hand.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T01:10:03.523" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T01:10:03.523" Title="In bridge, how would you bid the &quot;worst&quot; 14 point hand?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13963" CreationDate="2013-12-29T19:08:12.647" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's a misprint. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/920143/newport-on-british-map&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From the game publisher&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oh, that is a misprint. As far as I can check this, all three numbers&#xA;  are missing in Newport. Of course this city should have the same&#xA;  numbers as all normal cities (10/15/20).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sorry!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Henning (2F-Spiele)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T19:08:12.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2013-12-29T20:15:12.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You bid it like you’d bid any other minimum balanced hand with no five-card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open one of a minor. Rebid NT, raise partner’s major, or pass partner’s 1NT as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which minor you open is a matter of partnership agreement. The usual agreement in the US is that 1D can be on three with this shape, but there are some who prefer to have 1D always be four, and so open 1C here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passing is a poor plan, even if you made it slightly weaker, as is upgrading it if it had slightly better spots; it’s a perfectly respectable minimum balanced hand, and pretending it isn’t is just going to lead to reaching the wrong contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T20:15:12.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13970" CreationDate="2013-12-29T21:48:21.640" Score="13" ViewCount="3109" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Collectible Card Games (like Magic the Gathering or Yu-Gi-Oh!) I know require the players to shuffle their decks before the game begins. Also, the deck's card order is unbeknown to the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the game I'm currently designing I thought about letting the players arrange their decks beforehand (so they know exactly which card they draw when, assuming a perfect memory or a virtual match). However, to find out if this is a good idea, I'm looking for at least one CCG that incorporates this mechanic to study it's rules. Do you know any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6459" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T05:11:19.647" Title="Do Collectible Card Games without shuffling exist?" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2013-12-29T23:30:01.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I regard that as a comfortable, though minimum, 1NT opener playing 15-17 !NT, and open it accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to improve your Notrump hand evaluation, use a 54321 point system (for Ace through 10) and perform this transformation on the result: multiply by 2; add 1; and divide by 3 dropping any remainder. When applied to this hand provided we get an initial count of 22, which becomes successively 44, 45, and then 15 under the described transformation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2013-12-29T23:30:01.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2013-12-29T23:47:43.713" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure how applicable it is, since it never had an actual physical card-based implementation (and ergo isn't strictly on-topic for this site), but &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alteil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alteil&lt;/a&gt; was an online game based on CCG deck-building mechanics. While the original Japanese game still appears to be in active development, this answer is based on the English localization of it that has been defunct since 2017.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks are built of thirty cards, limited only by a maximum of three copies of any given card.  One card can be played each round, and this card is freely chosen from all available cards so there is no shuffling or randomization involved; the player has full access to his own deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Again, this doesn't &lt;em&gt;strictly&lt;/em&gt; meet your requirements of &quot;letting the players arrange their decks beforehand&quot; as there's no actual drawing involved &amp;mdash; the player's &quot;hand&quot; is effectively his entire deck throughout the game &amp;mdash; but it arguably does meet &quot;so they know exactly which card they draw when&quot; so I'll keep going...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the randomization that's &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in the card selection is found in the actual card abilities themselves.  For example, whereas targetting is common in a typical CCG (at least the ones I've played), it's actually an exception in Alteil.  Most attacks &amp;mdash; even the default attack action &amp;mdash; only hit &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt; units within range, but the player has no control over &lt;em&gt;which&lt;/em&gt; units beyond ensuring the intended targets are &quot;within range&quot;.  Targetted attacks do exist, but usually with a trade-off (e.g. higher cost or lower damage).  As such, gameplay itself is much more akin to a tactics game than most CCGs, with a higher emphasis on field layout and timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Detailed rules can still be found in the Wayback archive of &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150905195505/http://www.alteil.com/rulebook/index.php?page=dueling_rules&amp;amp;subsection=battle_phases_1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alteil's Rule Book&lt;/a&gt;; the fundamentals of game phases and stack resolution and card-text-trumps-everything are clearly in-line with existing deck-building games, even if the whole game is probably too complex to (enjoyably) play as a physical CCG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2019-02-12T05:11:19.647" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T05:11:19.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15176" CreationDate="2013-12-29T23:48:35.367" Score="2" ViewCount="1443" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Twilight Imperium 3rd ed you may get a technology advance that lets your PDS fire to a system adjacent to the one that contains them: The Deep Space Cannons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of firing in their same system stand but there is one extra scenario not described in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the enemy is at distance 2 and moves to an adjacent system, &lt;strong&gt;passing through an adjacent system&lt;/strong&gt;  will the PDS fire once or twice? (Meaning, will they fire once the enemy enters the first adjacent system and once more once the enemy reaches the destination adjacent system?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, what if the enemy is moving to the system that contains the PDS, would they shoot twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:18:31.153" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:18:31.153" Title="Deep Space cannons: how many times can they shoot?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13974" CreationDate="2013-12-30T01:51:13.483" Score="11" ViewCount="1980" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 71 (excluding starting tile) playing tiles available and this number seems not equally divided by 2,3,4 or even 5. According to the rule we have to finish all the tiles. Does this mean the player who starts first get the advantage of playing more tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6410" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:59:07.943" Title="How the game actually end for Carcassonne?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13972" CreationDate="2013-12-30T02:45:12.240" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, depending on how many players there are and what expansions are being played, the game will sometimes end with one or more players having played one tile less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, some tiles can become discarded. At times, early on in the game, a four sided city tile has no where to go and thus has to be discarded; the player draws again, and upsets the tile distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another instance is when playing the Traders and Builders expansion. The builder allows players to draw up to two tiles per turn, and thus disturb tile distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T02:45:12.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11550" CreationDate="2013-12-30T04:44:36.333" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blue white Azorious,&#xA;Blue black Dimir,&#xA;Blue green Simic,&#xA;Blue red Izzet, &#xA;White black Orzhov,&#xA;White green Selesnya, &#xA;White red Boros, &#xA;Black green Golgari,&#xA;Black red Rakdos,&#xA;Green red Gruul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6462" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T18:34:09.320" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T18:34:09.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13964" CreationDate="2013-12-30T04:49:34.920" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a curious question. You note that the context is five card majors, four card diamond bids, and three card club bids. When you agreed to play this system you must have realized that you would occasionally pick up a 4=4=3=2 hand. What was your plan? Never mind the ones with 14 HCP, how about 12 or 13 HCP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play 4-card diamond suits with one partner. We have agreed to open 1C when 4=4=3=2 with 12-14 or 18-19 HCP. What you should open is a matter for agreement between you and your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T04:49:34.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2013-12-30T06:04:15.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a very expensive plant that only powers one or two cities, consider not powering them as the fuel cost may exceed the extra money you will get in bureaucracy. &#xA;The game is pretty close because of the auto handicapping done by puting the leading player in the worse position when buying plants, resources, houses so  very much hangs on the last turn. Even if you played badly, your chances of being in contention ae high.  Consider ditching the balanced play strategy here, as playing a fast one can make you the winner faster than anyone else thinks.&#xA;If you see a juicy plant that looks like it will be up for bidding soon, don't make plans including it, unles you know all the other cheaper plants are already discarded. Chances are high that as new plants are drawn your desired plant, will get farther and farther from the auction or even be discarded alltogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6463" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T06:04:15.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2013-12-30T10:12:08.763" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IMHO letting players set up their decks pre game in a CCG is a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, Magic has the shuffling for a reason. One of them is porviding randomness to the game and giving the players the chance to work with what they got. Without that, all of the actual game would be happening in the metagame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing what your opponent plays and in what order would be instawin if you had proper cards in your collection. The best cards would be very pricey in such a ccg. If two different first turn win combos could be set up with your card base, the game would effectively become rock paper scissors. The players would not be thinking &quot;what can I do with the cards at hand&quot; during play - play would be just the execution of patterns the deck was designed and set up for. If you set your deck the wrong way pre game you would lose. If you were lucky, you would win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it is possible to invent mechanics that let you get around these problems, but in my opinion it is not worth it, as the pre game deck setup isnt really a part of the game thats interactive and fun, and it would be tiresome to set it up again after each game before you can play another. Shuffling is easier and more convinient. So - what do you actually want to achieve with pre-game deck setup mechanics? Perhaps this is a case of the XY problem, and there are in fact better solutions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I feel that making another ccg is not viable. Magic was first and still is the biggest after 20 years. It aint going away anytime soon. Its kind of like WoW in the MMO world. There are some other MMOs, and they do thier little thing, but they cant compare to WoW and its playerbase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorUserId="5223" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T14:26:23.200" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T14:26:23.200" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13982" CreationDate="2013-12-30T12:33:06.710" Score="4" ViewCount="3926" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214352&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn&lt;/a&gt; on the table and plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214375&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Metamorph&lt;/a&gt; as a copy of her. As I understand from her Gatherer-page, all my creatures will now briefly have -4/-4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is now, suppose I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=192224&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Obsidian Fireheart&lt;/a&gt; (or any other elemental with at least 3 toughness) in play along with two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=139730&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Incandescent Soulstokes&lt;/a&gt;, then obviously both my Soulstokes die as they have -1 toughness each, but will Obsidian Fireheart die as well? In other words, when exactly during this process does one copy of Elesh Norn leave the battlefield due to the legendary rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T16:54:55.667" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T16:54:55.667" Title="When does the Legend Rule take place?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-legendary-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2179" CreationDate="2013-12-30T13:10:29.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There a few easy solutions such as putting stickers on the back of terrain hexes and border pieces, either color coded or with, say, &quot;S&quot; written on them for Seafarers, &quot;C&quot; for C&amp;amp;K et cetera. The previous &quot;light marker on hex edges&quot; suggestion above was brilliant as well. Maintaining a count of how many types of each hex go where isn't too difficult to begin with, considering each box lists on the back or in the manual exactly what comes in it. Further, virtually each expansions offerings are unique to it.  As long as you have the same edition, all your basic resource tile are going to look the same, it seems a tad neurotic to worry about which box an individual hex came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are easy solutions as mentioned, but the best advice I can give you is not to care, because the power of Catan lies in its variance and your creativity.  For example, my friends' set includes Settlers, Seafarers, and both respective 5-6 player expansions.  They mixed them all together as soon as they were out of the boxes, and are all stored in whichever boxes provide the neatest, most efficient fit.  We just leave all the player piece bags in one area so everyone can pick from all six colors, rather than worry about leaving brown and green in the 5-6 box and unless we use all the others first. Here is how we begin every game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We discuss what kind of game we want to play based on number of players and time available which basically just means which of the available special rules we wish to use.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We choose from ALL available border pieces, and assemble a good size (mostly we go as big as possible) into an interesting shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If we're using ocean tiles (90% of the time we are) now, we'll throw those down, leaving the empty spaces as the shape of our landmasses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After counting how many spaces, we decide how much of each resource hex will be shuffled into a stack.  The tiles are then placed totally randomly or with a few dedicated placements (for example, we usually don't place gold hexes on islands a player can set up)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Work out a number spread based on how many tiles we have, count out numbers, shuffle randomly and place using the inward spiral technique from the rules.  Adjust so no 6's and 8's border each other or are too concentrated in any region.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process ensures different and relatively balanced games every time.  I highly recommend instead of maintaining everything in a separate box and with a different rule set in mind for each, instead consider yourself to be an artist expanding their palette.  All you art supplies are kept together, because you might only want to use the tiniest inclusion of one rule set (like adding in bridges or river tiles) or you might want to throw everything in on top of something else, like a full C&amp;amp;K scenario that takes place on an massively epic island archipelago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6467" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T13:10:29.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13980" CreationDate="2013-12-30T13:39:54.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Legendary rule is one of the state-based actions which are performed at several points in a turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &quot;Timing and Priority&quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for&#xA;  state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions&#xA;  simultaneously as a single event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are also what kills created with non-positive toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the resolving of a spell, state-based actions are not performed. So when the copy of Elesh Norn enters the battlefield, there are temporarily two of them, and your creatures have -4/-4. The 3/3 creatures will temporarily be -1/-1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then state-based actions are performed, and those creatures and all but one of those Elesh Norns are killed simultaneously. From that moment, your remaining creatures have -2/-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.4. Unlike triggered abilities, state-based actions pay no attention to what happens during the resolution of a spell or ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2013-12-30T16:19:25.743" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T16:19:25.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2147" CreationDate="2013-12-30T13:57:39.393" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goons make for a very un-fun game, and here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goons are more than an &quot;upgraded militia.&quot; Other attack cards are mainly attack cards, and the person buying the card understand that they mostly deter other players, but do not benefit the person as much as they could.&#xA;Goons would be a great card to have in your deck even if they didn't attack the other players. It gives you +1 buy and one free victory coin for each buy, so just buy coppers. Pairing it with a Worker's Village gives three buys, which is 3 easy points that don't clog up your deck. Other cards in Prosperity make trashing those coppers easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played with three other people including my grandmother, who doesn't even fully know how to play the game. She played a worker's village and then a Kings' Court with a Goons on it, then one more Goons. This gave her 6 buys total, +8 treasures (and whatever else she had in hand), and FOUR VICTORY COINS for every card she bought. Bam. Bought one Province, 5 coppers, gained THIRTY POINTS, 24 of which were coins that did not clog up her deck. IN ONE TURN. Plus, no one could get enough more than 6 treasures in hand thanks to the discard rule of the Goons, so the game slowed to a crawl as well.&#xA;Yes, this hand was very lucky, BUT it's a broken strategy. Getting just Worker's Villages and Goons would work well enough to net you all the coins that come with the game and stop the other players from getting any footing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would not say Goons is broken, but I will say that it is an attack card that has too much incentive for players to get the card, so it comes into play a lot, and inevitably slows down the game just the same as if everyone bought nothing but Militias.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6468" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T13:57:39.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="13990" CreationDate="2013-12-30T14:17:47.250" Score="9" ViewCount="10772" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card sleeves are probably be a no-brainer for board game collectors who want to keep their games in pristine condition for as long as possible, or for CCGs where an individual card may be very difficulty to replace.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For non-collectors playing games like Agricola, 7 Wonders, Mage Knight, Pandemic, etc, when does it make sense to use card sleeves and when doesn't it make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6469" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T07:51:11.977" Title="When to use card sleeves for a board game?" Tags="|game-accessories|card-sleeves|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13984" CreationDate="2013-12-30T14:36:29.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As card sleeves are quite cheap, it's just a matter of personal preference. Some people like sleeves (I do) others don't (some of my friends).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One case I could argue for sleeves is when you have a card game and plan on maybe buying an expansion later. The cards from the base set would be rugged from use, while the expansion would be pristine and shiny. It will be visible. In case of sleeves, you just put all the cards into new sleeves and voila, every card looks the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5223" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T07:51:11.977" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T07:51:11.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="13986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13984" CreationDate="2013-12-30T15:08:41.673" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sleeves are good for games that have you shuffle a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;. Roborally, for example, shuffles a single deck of cards many times every game, and my cards were significantly worn after a year or two of playing occasionally. Similarly, if the cards just don't seem to be very durable, sleeves might be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're usually mostly pointless for games that don't shuffle much (once per game). The cards shouldn't wear that fast, so unless you prefer shuffling with sleeves or are very protective, there's not really much need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And sleeves are counterproductive for extremely large decks of cards (think Arkham Horror with expansions) where the stack of sleeved cards would be way too high to be stable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T15:08:41.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13980" CreationDate="2013-12-30T15:39:44.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the second Norn enters the battlefield state based actions are checked and executed at the same time. This means one Born dies because of the legend rule and the 2 Soulstrokes die because of having 0 or lower toughness. This happens at the same time. And your Fireheart lives happily ever after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T15:39:44.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13984" CreationDate="2013-12-30T16:36:30.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think sleeves are only really needed for a game where the cards will be shuffled a lot, and you expect to play the game often. (How often is ‘often’ depends on the amount of shuffling.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are going to be expansions, or there are cards where a subset gets shuffled into the main deck, you might want to get sleeves just to prevent the cards from having different amounts of wear. (So, I should probably get sleeves for my Cosmic Encounter set, even though I don’t get to play very often.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T16:36:30.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2013-12-30T16:41:51.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a slightly more DIY approach, you can purchase square dowels from most craft stores that are the exact size of the roads in Catan.  Buy a dowel for around $2, cut it down to size, you have roads.  A slightly larger square down could be done for the settlements, then a larger round dowel could be cut down for cities.  You could also paint or color the pieces in any color you wanted, making the distinction easier than between sets of the same color with sharpie dots.  Just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6470" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T16:41:51.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13984" CreationDate="2013-12-30T17:35:57.530" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few situations where you want to consider sleeving your cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to prevent marking caused by uneven use (ever play Euchre with a normal deck of cards?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to prevent marking caused by tears, folds, scratches and nicks (especially in games with a lot of shuffling or playing cards repeatedly)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to protect the value of the cards (for collectible card games, such as &lt;em&gt;MtG&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to protect the condition of the cards (because you want them to remain in a nice state)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards are difficult or expensive to replace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a few reasons you might want to not sleeve your cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They will not fit nicely into the original packaging you have with sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards no longer stack nicely with sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't have much impact (if any) on the game if cards become marked (resource cards in &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt;, for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is information on both sides of the card that needs to remain visible (you can, however, buy transparent sleeves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards are easily replaceable (such as a normal deck of playing cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And, of course, sleeves cost money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in short, it's really a matter of personal preference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I sleeve my cards when playing &lt;em&gt;MtG&lt;/em&gt; as some of the cards are valuable and marking can be an issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't sleeve my cards for &lt;em&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/em&gt; as (although they are very worn) it isn't very important to keep information secret. The cards also come in various sizes and sleeving them all would be annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For another game, &lt;em&gt;Citadels&lt;/em&gt;, some information is very important to keep secret (roles) so I sleeve these cards to prevent marking, but other cards (buildings) are not as important to keep secret so I do not bother sleeving them. The same idea applies with &lt;em&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T17:35:57.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T17:57:03.597" Score="5" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;During Charity, the rules state to play or give away cards until there are only 5 in your hand.  Can you play a monster card and fight it at this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6471" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T01:13:52.300" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T01:13:52.300" Title="Can I fight a monster during charity?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13991" CreationDate="2013-12-30T18:54:42.890" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;&quot;When To Play Cards&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monsters&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If drawn face-up, during the “Kick Open The Door” phase, they&#xA;  immediately attack the person who drew them. If acquired any other&#xA;  way, they go into your hand and may be played during “Looking For&#xA;  Trouble,” or played on another player with the Wandering Monstercard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monster cards can only be played during the &quot;Kick Open The Door&quot; phase or by other cards like Wandering Monster which explicitly allow them to be played. Thus you cannot simply play and fight them prior to charity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretically if you happened to also be holding a card that allowed you to play a monster as part of its effect, then you could play that card and the monster, depending on the conditions of the card. For instance, Wandering Monster itself doesn't help here as it is played on a player already in combat, but there could come along a new card someday (or there could be one in some expansion I don't have) that could allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T18:54:42.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13922" CreationDate="2013-12-30T19:49:53.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a round you can only ever work on the Phase that you started the round with. The round ends once someone has gotten rid of all of the cards in their hand by completing their phase and playing their remaining cards, if any, on other completed phases. Once a round is over your pieces will move and you have a new phase to work on for the next round. For example;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All players are working on Phase 1. Player 1 completes the phase but still has cards left. That player cannot attempt to work on Phase 2 until the following round when they are actually on the space for that Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6474" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T19:49:53.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14002" CreationDate="2013-12-30T22:57:44.170" Score="2" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.railgamefans.com/ebp/mayfairebfaq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;, there is a list of crayon rail games FAQ and accompanying answers, presumably from Mayfair games.  I don't want to doubt the authenticity of that list.  Rather, I'd like confirmation that the information given in there &lt;em&gt;really is from Mayfair Games&lt;/em&gt;.  Ideally, I'd like an FAQ from an official source, but confirmation that this is really from Mayfair would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T04:29:51.290" Title="Where can this FAQ be found on an official site?" Tags="|crayon-rail-games|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7100" CreationDate="2013-12-30T23:00:55.120" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1049403/found-replacement-markers-that-work&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;, one user reports that Crayola Washable Markers work well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2013-12-30T23:00:55.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-30T23:11:25.870" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I find the rules to a given crayon rail game online?  I have tried looking on a game page (i.e. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/game.php?id=110&amp;amp;stock=MFG4507&amp;amp;name=EuroRails&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EuroRails&lt;/a&gt;), but there is no link to the rules there.  I did manage to find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/mfg-shop3/rules/MFG4500-Overview-V1_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link to the Empire Express rules&lt;/a&gt;, but I'd like links to the other rail games, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6358" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:51:34.160" Title="Can I view rules for Crayon Rail games online?" Tags="|crayon-rail-games|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14128" CreationDate="2013-12-31T00:31:19.057" Score="7" ViewCount="1080" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to end a game of Cosmic Encounter with 6 colonies (i.e. Parasite wild flare). The rules for the FFG version of Cosmic Encounter state that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The winner(s) are the first player(s) to have five colonies on any&#xA;  planets outside his or her home system . . . It is possible, through&#xA;  alliances and successful negotiations, to have more than one player&#xA;  gain five colonies at the same time. In this case, the players share a&#xA;  win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be interpreted to mean 5 or more colonies, but the rules do not specifically say that. A devious tactic could be to invite someone along as ally to each achieve a 5th planet simultaneously, but then because the parasite flare was played the attacker ends with 6 colonies vs. the ally's 5 colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So . . . who wins if the game ends with one player having 6 colonies and 1 or more players with 5 colonies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2018-08-02T15:44:04.490" Title="Who wins if the game ends with one player having 6 colonies and 1 or more players with 5 colonies?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14004" CreationDate="2013-12-31T00:43:06.897" Score="1" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most obvious time is when partner has made a lead-directing double, showing strength, perhaps a tenace, in dummy's suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even when partner hasn't doubled, there may be other reasons. For instance, if dummy has only a few high card points, forcing dummy to take its winners early may cause declarer &quot;transportation&quot; problems. If your hand lends itself well be being squeezed, hammering at dummy's high cards early may be a form of anti-squeeze defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have something obvious to do, like cash a long suit or lead partner's bid suit, you'd do that. But suppose you have scattered values and no bids by your side. What would make you lead dummy's suit? Are the reasons I listed in the last paragraph valid ones? And are there others that I have overlooked? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2017-05-01T21:37:45.227" Title="What are good reasons to lead dummy's first bid suit?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="13999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13910" CreationDate="2013-12-31T01:54:06.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deck construction and tuning is a big part of the fun (and the skill) in Magic. Becoming an expert deckbuilder can be a multiyear learning, not something that can be given in a StackExchange answer. But as someone who did spend those years (lots of &quot;limited&quot; competition and a decent amount of &quot;constructed&quot; format competition) I'll offer some principles to get you started:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deck is a subset of the available cards that you choose to play, not the collection itself. You choose which cards to include in a deck in order to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) meet whatever rules apply to your format (e.g. a 40 or 60 card minimum; rules on how many copies of a particular card can be included; what sets are eligible, etc.). These can be formal tournament rules or just whatever you and your circle of players think will be fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) WIN! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winning implies you have a strategy to actually win, e.g. &quot;I will deal very fast damage to kill my opponent before they can even get set up&quot; or &quot;I will hit my opponent with creatures they cannot block&quot; or &quot;I will play a defensive battle and win with a late, game-breaking play.&quot; Obviously not all strategies are created equal, and the real fun is in the interactions between strategies. For example, a deck that concentrates on dealing damage with early fast creatures can be very effective against a deck that is slow to get defenses up, but tends to struggle against a medium-speed deck full of larger creatures. This implies that there is no one winning strategy, and that even selecting what strategy may depend in part on what you expect to face. OK, that's how you plan to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) You also want to not lose. Yes, this is different from the strategy to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not losing (more than necessary) means two things, both more tactical. First, you want the deck to be efficient and repeatable in its execution of the strategy. That means things like ensuring you generally have the mana to play your spells, but not more mana than you need (dead cards in your hand). There are general guidelines for these things (e.g. search up &quot;mana curve&quot;), and you will also develop a feel, but don't hesitate to just play out a bunch of hands solo and see how it's working. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second element of not losing is potentially including cards that don't directly feed the primary strategy, but make the deck more resilient to opposing strategies. For example, if you are playing small weenie creatures maybe you need to add just 1-2 evasion creatures to give you a chance once the opponent gets good blockers in place. Or if you are playing a combo deck, maybe you need some defense to give yourself time to draw the combo. In general, I find it best to build the pure strategy deck first, and only swap in a few tactical cards like this if you absolutely need them. The difference in effectiveness between a pure full-on assault and a &quot;90% assault, 10% what if&quot; can be huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a few thoughts to get you started. Pick how you want to win, do sample draws/plays to balance mechanical aspects, and then ultimately judge the deck by how it performs in real matches. And have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6475" LastEditorUserId="1424" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T05:17:13.183" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T05:17:13.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14008" CreationDate="2013-12-31T02:50:24.623" Score="1" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got destroyed in Commander (EDH).  Worst part of it is that the deck that killed me can do it over and over.  It has a guaranteed 4-5 turn win. (EVERY TIME)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It felt a bit broken to me, so I wanted to see if all the cards that were used to destroy me were legal for commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the only site I can find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Wizards let this external site dictate the banned cards for this format?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="56" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T03:03:20.267" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T14:21:55.747" Title="Where is the Wizards of the Coast Offical Commander (General) banned list?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2013-12-31T03:17:08.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That list is correct. You can find the same list on Wizard's site here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/100cardsingleton-commander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/100cardsingleton-commander&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T03:17:08.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13994" CreationDate="2013-12-31T04:29:51.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be any information about why the FAQ is being hosted at the fan site, and not at Mayfair Games itself, but there are several circumstantial pieces of evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mayfair Games &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/faq.php?game=105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;don't have a FAQ for Empire Builder&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mayfair Games links to the fan site (implying endorsement) from their &lt;a href=&quot;http://mayfairgames.com/game.php?id=105&amp;amp;stock=MFG4500&amp;amp;name=Empire%20Builder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Empire Builder page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That site is also the developer of the official computer version (i.e. licensed from Mayfair Games).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The resources for the game are comprehensive. It's unlikely they would make the FAQ up and then claim it was from the publisher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.railgamefans.com/ebp/ebfaq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another FAQ&lt;/a&gt; on the same site which indicates it is the set of rules by which the largest tournaments are played. That argues that this site is indeed the keeper of the de-facto most &quot;official&quot; FAQ.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, I did do some digging in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Internet Archive&lt;/a&gt; for a FAQ from 2008 hosted at Mayfair Games, but found nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. The linked FAQs look detailed and helpful. Now I'm curious as to why you &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; proof of provenance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T04:29:51.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13998" CreationDate="2013-12-31T05:09:13.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of reasons&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a singleton in dummy's suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You hold, say K8, in dummy's suit, and want declarer to commit to&#xA;    finesse in that suit/some other line (i.e. refusing the finesse), on&#xA;    the opening lead. You do this by leading the deceptive 8 (feigning&#xA;    singleton 8 or 8x). This has actually happened, with success, on real play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason of cutting off dummy's communication is good, but unlikely to come up on the opening lead. Leading dummy's suit can lose a much needed tempo, especially when you are not even sure if the suit is solid etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaking up a squeeze on the opening lead? Well, if you can do that knowingly, you should play bridge for money :-) I guess it is theoretically possible, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T05:17:40.203" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T05:17:40.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13991" CreationDate="2013-12-31T08:42:50.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing and fighting are not the same thing. For example, Wandering Monster allows you to play a monster, but you don't get to fight it. Playing is to put on the table. Something must instruct that player to fight it if he is to fight it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Charity phase doesn't instruct any player to fight monsters played during Charity phase, so if you were to play a monster, you'd be left with a monster on the table that no one has a way of attacking. It would be stuck in limbo for the rest of the game. That doesn't make any sense, so playing a monster during charity doesn't either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Charity phase is simply giving you the chance to play cards before you have to discard, but you still have to follow the rules that cover how each type of card can be played. The section titled &amp;quot;When to Play Cards&amp;quot; details this. For monster cards, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If drawn face-up, during the “Kick Open The Door” phase, they immediately attack the person who drew them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If acquired any other way, they go into your hand and may be played during “Looking For Trouble,” or played on another player with the Wandering Monster card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T21:17:44.440" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13997" CreationDate="2013-12-31T08:57:38.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is entirely up for player interpretation, but my opinion is: since Cosmic Encounter doesn't have rules for tie-breaking, and since situations where several player meet the victory conditions is interpreted as a shared victory - one player having MORE than 5 colonies is completely identical to this player having 5 colonies, thus he will share a victory with the players that have five colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="276" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T08:57:38.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14000" CreationDate="2013-12-31T14:21:55.747" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Commander format (née Elder Dragon Highlander) began with a bunch of judges entertaining themselves over the course of long, major tournaments, with cards that rarely saw play; Sheldon Menery in particular, who was at the time a level 5 judge although he has since retired from Magic judging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the format grew, the EDH Rules Committee formed, and they created &amp;quot;the&amp;quot; banlist -- while many groups customize the list to their own metas, and there is a different banlist designed for 1v1 play&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;, the banlist maintained by the RC was the gold standard for EDH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Wizards wanted to get in on the action, &lt;strong&gt;they decided to let the RC maintain their autonomy&lt;/strong&gt;, although they did need to brand the format, hence the name change to Commander instead of EDH. While commander is now a supported casual format, even to the point of being available for scheduling via the Wizards Event Reporter software, playable in Magic Online, and detailed in the Comprehensive Rules document, the rules of the format continue to be maintained by the RC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RC has synchronized their rules/banlist update schedule with that of Wizards, which helps to avoid confusion from mismatched information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: The banlist posted on mtgcommander.net &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the official banlist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Notes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://duelcommander.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duel Commander&lt;/a&gt;, occasionally called &amp;quot;French&amp;quot; EDH. The Duel Commander rules and banlist are maintained by a separate group from the Commander Rules committee, and Duel Commander is not supported by Wizards in the way normal Commander is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T14:21:55.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13899" CreationDate="2013-12-31T21:31:23.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can space (dump out the airlock) anything, but you cannot dump passengers or fugitives unless there's a planet in the sector.  There is a crew member you can hire that allows you to sell parts to any solid contact, in addition to cargo and contraband.  You can also buy, sell, or trade any of these items (or fuel) with another firefly in the same sector.  These are the only ways to get rid of items in your cargo hold and stash.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spacing things, selling to contacts, and trading with another firefly does not require an action, and can be done even if it's not your turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6481" LastEditorUserId="6481" LastEditDate="2013-12-31T21:46:23.120" LastActivityDate="2013-12-31T21:46:23.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14014" CreationDate="2013-12-31T22:54:24.853" Score="2" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to think of the Coppersmith card in Dominion: Intrigue as pretty much a dud of a card. Anybody have any useful tips as to how to play this card properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T00:02:30.177" Title="What is the best strategy for Coppersmith in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-01-03T21:57:46.330" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14011" CreationDate="2013-12-31T23:10:14.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coppersmith improves your early hands at the cost of your later hands.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy it with your opening hand(s); its only purpose is to accelerate your deck in your early turns. The next few times you see it, you'll probably have about 3 coppers in your hand, which means you can immediately afford Gold or other 6-coin cards. Compare it against a Silver: a Silver will give you +2 coins, but a Coppersmith will give you +3 or even +4 coins in those early hands. If you don't have any trashing cards, then you'll see its value degrade to +2 coins, then +1 coin, and soon enough you'll draw Coppersmith hands with no coppers at all. If you have trashing cards, then get rid of your Coppersmith as the number of coppers in your deck decreases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are worse things in Dominion than having a single card that won't be useful in the late game; your entire initial deck consists of such cards, so one more such card isn't the end of the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you happen to play with both Prosperity and Intrigue, and the board has both Coppersmith and Counting House, &lt;em&gt;and the Random Number God likes you,&lt;/em&gt; then you should fill your deck with Coppers and +Buy cards (with a few +Action cards to let you build the chain). Then you can play both Coppersmith and Counting House in the same turn, draw 15 doubled Coppers from your discard pile, and buy the whole world and everything in it. &lt;em&gt;Do not count on this working out on any regular basis.&lt;/em&gt; It's great fun; if you play Dominion in order to create entertaining combos rather than to solve its statistics puzzle, then go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are certainly better cards out there.&lt;/strong&gt; But if the other 2-to-4-coin cards in your current game aren't exciting, or you have a strategy that requires 6 coins before the other players, then Coppersmith will get you there faster than Silver will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I have not played 2-player Dominion; my experience is exclusively multiplayer.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T00:02:24.447" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T00:02:24.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2013-12-31T23:55:29.007" Score="6" ViewCount="1429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got the Pathfinder Adventure Card Game and have played a few games, but have a clarifying question about how many cards can be used for a combat check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that according to the rules only one of each card type can be used for a particular check, but can a person use a &quot;weapon&quot; and a &quot;spell&quot; that each can be used for a combat check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've been playing using only one card type that says &quot;For a combat check...&quot;, but I want to make sure that's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1866" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:26:52.447" Title="Cards used for combat" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14011" CreationDate="2014-01-01T00:02:30.177" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct in your assessment that &lt;strong&gt;in most Kingdoms, Coppersmith is a poor card&lt;/strong&gt; and you would be better off with something else or just Silver. It has a couple of problems, as you have seen. It's terminal, so it doesn't play well with basic drawing cards that could give you a hand full of Copper, like say Smithy. It doesn't provide a +Buy, so if you do manage to pull off some combo that lets you play it with a hand full of Copper, you'll need to add yet another piece to actually use your money. And assembling a powerful combo is difficult since you need to not trash your Copper or even discard it to, say, Warehouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, Coppersmith's best friend is probably &lt;strong&gt;Tactician&lt;/strong&gt;. Tactician provides big hands with plenty of Copper, another Action to play with, and that critical +Buy that lets you actually do something with all of your money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Paul Marshall's answer hints at, a T1/T2 Coppersmith is fairly likely to connect with three Coppers and provide a T3/T4 Gold. That can help you get off to a good start, but then you have this increasingly-useless card in your deck. The presence of trash-for-benefit cards like &lt;strong&gt;Remodel, Apprentice, or Upgrade&lt;/strong&gt; can make this kind of Coppersmith opening more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Coppersmith&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy Wiki&lt;/a&gt; has some more discussion. It also suggests that Coppersmith can be a boon to a very powerful draw engine that doesn't need to trash. Some combination of &lt;strong&gt;Wharf&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Council Room&lt;/strong&gt; (draw and +Buy) and &lt;strong&gt;King's Court&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Throne Room&lt;/strong&gt; (to magnify the power of the drawing) might make you take notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T00:02:30.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-01T00:27:10.577" Score="4" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star Fluxx has a number of cards that end up being quite powerful and can throw chaos into a game that seemed to be almost over. Most of these cards are either Actions or Surprises and can thus only be used once for each time they are drawn. However, the two Keepers, The Computer, and The Unseen Force seem to provide decisive long-term advantages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mI2S0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Computer&lt;/strong&gt; - &lt;em&gt;If you have this card on the table, Draw and Play one extra card per turn. Also, you may exceed Hand and Keeper Limits by one.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/doNkl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unseen Force&lt;/strong&gt; - *If you have this on the table, once per turn you can steal a card chosen randomly from another player's hand, and add that card to your own hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I come from a long history of playing control decks in Magic: The Gathering and so I try and dig deep into the strategy of how to accrue small advantages and deal with random elements in card games. Star Fluxx has significant random components to the point that sometimes a player can win in a single turn when no one suspected that they were even close to victory. To me, this suggests that the best strategies will be those that rely on drawing more cards than your opponents and playing more cards than your opponents, rather than striving for any specific combination of cards or rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a small sample size, but I have only lost 1 game where I controlled The Computer or The Unseen Force for more than 2 turns (I have won the other 5). Star Fluxx, though, is more about having fun through narrative and social interaction than min-maxing. The problem I am running into is that these cards seem to reduce the fun that the other players are having because they recognize that they're being slowly ground into a defeat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have you had the same experience with these 2 Keepers? Have you instituted any house rules to modify these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6484" LastEditorUserId="2414" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T16:38:25.267" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T20:09:18.893" Title="In Star Fluxx, have you needed to change how The Computer and The Unseen Force play?" Tags="|house-rules|fluxx|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2014-01-01T01:57:54.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play this with my son (7) regularly.  We play with a 'variable' rule set that includes bumping the hand to 7 cards (8) for dwarves, and allowing for slaughters by playing 'best of' games.  We also often shorten to level 6 wins.  This truly is a game where 'house rules' are encouraged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6486" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T01:57:54.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14018" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14021" CreationDate="2014-01-01T02:48:01.383" Score="8" ViewCount="4417" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Agricola a couple of times and really like the game. But I have a problem: &lt;strong&gt;getting a good enough food engine going so I don't have to concern myself with taking too many important actions getting food, and not other really beneficial things.&lt;/strong&gt; Any advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry if that was too weirdly worded)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T01:11:02.423" Title="What's the best way to get a good food engine going in Agricola early on?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-01T04:27:59.390" Score="3" ViewCount="2996" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing mancala, when you get a stone that lands in your mancala and get an extra move, is it just one move or do you start over like in the beginning and pick a group of stones on your side and go unil they run out?  Also, if you end up landing in your own mancala again, do you then get another free move, or is there just one free move before your opponent goes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6488" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-01-01T22:38:53.170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T22:38:53.170" Title="What is an extra move in Mancala, and can you have more than one?" Tags="|mancala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14018" CreationDate="2014-01-01T06:04:47.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main food engines: bread and animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bread you need clay and stone to get an oven, and plow a couple of fields with grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For animals you need to build some wood to build fences and/or stables and clay for a fireplace or cooking heart and a couple of sheep/wild boar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is easier depends on the context. Usually corn requires less actions to set up, but you need to get at least a bake action between each harvest. With animals you can have a food engine that gives you 9 food every harvest without taking any action (1 sheep + 1 wild boar + 1 cattle), but it is more expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3329" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T06:04:47.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14018" CreationDate="2014-01-01T06:19:22.813" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of options, but if you've only played a couple of times then a Fireplace + sheep is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheep are worth two food each, so a pile of sheep is a valuable commodity. If you can keep them in pastures long enough to breed (i.e. without eating them first), then they're a valuable investment, providing you with two action-free food every harvest. Two key points to remember about eating animals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need a Fireplace or Cooking Hearth (you can't eat raw animals!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may take all animals on a space and cook them immediately, &lt;em&gt;even if you don't have space to keep them on your farm&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second point is crucial. If your opponent is able to pick up a Fireplace, then you must always be alert to the possibility that he could take all of a given animal, and just convert the lot into food. Of course, you can do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've played a few more games, you'll realise that setting up your food engine correctly every time is much more subtle than this. There are several key food sources, and how you put them together depends to some extent on your Occupations/Minor Improvements, and on what your opponent(s) go for. You can&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat animals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bake bread&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eat vegetables&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up food from Fishing or other food accumulator spaces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy one or more specialist Major Improvements (Basketmaker's Workshop/Joinery/Pottery), and eat resources&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use food-based Occupations or Minor Improvements (if you have them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your overall strategy for the game, coupled with how your opponents play, will drive your choice of food engine. There are far too many permutations to discuss them in detail here, but for example if you have Occupations/Minors that aid with plowing, sowing or baking, then bread could be a solid food source. If you can get wood quickly, or if sheep come out early, then animals might be preferred. If you can get to a Cooking Hearth, or if you have a Schnapps Distiller, or a way of getting vegetables very early, then vegetables can be a great food solution. On the other hand, if your opponents take the Ovens before you, then baking may become too inefficient, and you'll have to switch to something else. It all depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T06:19:22.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-01T17:26:23.793" Score="0" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a decently experienced Dominion player (I have the Base set, Intrigue, Seaside, Prosperity and Hinterlands is on it's way) and I'm wondering what would be a good next expansion for beating big-money style strategies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T17:26:23.793" Title="What's the best Dominion expansion for beating big money-style strategies?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-01-02T22:22:19.960" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2014-01-01T17:48:12.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A significant proportion of wargames released these days (e.g., by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GMT&lt;/a&gt;) is playtested using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VASSAL&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2622" LastEditorUserId="2622" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:10:31.440" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T20:10:31.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14019" CreationDate="2014-01-01T21:50:45.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mancala&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mancala&lt;/a&gt; is actually a family of games, not a game itself. Since you call the game 'Mancala', I'm going to assume you have a commercial Western version of Mancala, which means you're very likely actually playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalah&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kalah&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;move&lt;/em&gt; in Mancala always means &quot;take the group of stones from one of your pits, and sow them all again&quot;. So yes, it is just &quot;like in the beginning&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any move, if the last stone in the move falls on your store, you take another move. You can have many extra moves if you keep finishing your moves in your store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-01-01T21:50:45.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14041" CreationDate="2014-01-01T22:47:11.117" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/145203/prosperity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt;, the rules for scoring Research say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Research&lt;/strong&gt;: each player moves a number of spaces in both Research tracks equal to the number of Research symbols visible on their&#xA;  individual board. For each track, the player with the highest marker&#xA;  scores 3 Prosperity points, the second player scores 1 point. In case&#xA;  of a tie for the first place, all leading players gain 2 points (and&#xA;  no points are awarded for second place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Prosperity board has only a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1873210/prosperity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;limited number of spaces&lt;/a&gt; on the two Research tracks. What happens if during scoring a player reaches the end of the track? Do they count the 'extra' steps for the purpose of determining first place, or would several players at the end of the track each be tied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:41:08.790" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:41:08.790" Title="When scoring in Prosperity, is there a maximum limit for research?" Tags="|prosperity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14028" CreationDate="2014-01-02T00:30:01.653" Score="1" ViewCount="890" Body="&lt;p&gt;After owning &lt;em&gt;Agricola&lt;/em&gt; for quite sometime, I finally got a group of experienced players and decided to use the &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;interactive&lt;/em&gt;) deck. I just opened it, and inside the deck there are cards marked with an &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;, which means the card is from the basic (&lt;em&gt;easy&lt;/em&gt;) deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was that a mistake? Is it on purpose? If so, how the heck am I supposed to figure out which card goes on which deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6496" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T00:43:19.940" Title="Interactive Deck came with Easy cards?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14027" CreationDate="2014-01-02T00:43:19.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Agricola cards are not wrapped in the box strictly by which deck they belong to.&lt;/strong&gt; You'll need to open and sort through all the cards that came with the game. The terms &quot;E-deck&quot;, &quot;I-deck&quot;, and &quot;K-deck&quot; just refer to subsets of those cards. The E-deck is all of the cards with the E symbol, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you need a manifest of all the cards, &lt;a href=&quot;http://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html&quot;&gt;this website&lt;/a&gt; contains a complete list of them. Only the E-, I-, and K-decks are part of the base game; the rest are expansions or promos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T00:43:19.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8246" CreationDate="2014-01-02T00:48:35.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kael (the lead behind Fall from Heaven and Somnium) went to work with Stardock and they recently implemented a modified version of Somnium as &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/app/id584916423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an iOS game&lt;/a&gt;. They also released a PDF with high-resolution images for the cards on their website - though these are not the cards that Stephanie drew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These points, and some further details are provided by Kael himself &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.civfanatics.com/showthread.php?p=12891658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in this post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deadmansdrawgame.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.deadmansdrawgame.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6497" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T05:24:07.040" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T05:24:07.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14031" CreationDate="2014-01-02T03:11:54.270" Score="2" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;This scenario came up in a game played tonight:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The King is in Tokyo City and has an Armor Plating card (&quot;Ignore&#xA;damage when that damage would only make you lose 1&quot;). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alienoid is not in Tokyo and has a Herbivore card (&quot;Gain 1 star on your turn if&#xA;you don't damage anyone&quot;). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alienoid, after his second and final reroll, has rolled a single Attack (along with a few hearts).  We all agreed that The King should not take any damage because of his Armor Plating.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our question:  Should Alienoid gain 1 star since he didn't damage anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3116" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T05:12:58.120" Title="Does a herbivore gain 1 star if he attacks but the damage is ignored due to armor plating?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14030" CreationDate="2014-01-02T05:12:58.120" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, Alieniod with Herbivore should gain 1 Star for not damaging anyone.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Herbivore specifically tells you to gain a Star if you don't damage anyone, so assuming Alienoid doesn't buy a card that damages anyone, they will gain 1 Star from &lt;strong&gt;Herbivore&lt;/strong&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iellogames.com/download/KOT-US-Rules-low.pdf&quot;&gt;rules specifically&lt;/a&gt; call out the matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an attack somehow ends up doing no damage (due to Camouflage for example), then it is no longer considered an attack for the purposes of cards like Poison Spit or &lt;strong&gt;Herbivore&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T05:12:58.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14015" CreationDate="2014-01-02T09:52:12.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to think of &lt;em&gt;Unseen Force&lt;/em&gt; as annoyance, whereas &lt;em&gt;The Computer&lt;/em&gt; is probably the strongest card in the game.  There are various things you can do to try to dilute the power of an opponent's &lt;em&gt;The Computer&lt;/em&gt;, raising the draw and play count rules and creating hand and keeper limits.  Plus you can always steal keepers or play &lt;em&gt;Brain Transference&lt;/em&gt;.  That said, if someone pulls out &lt;em&gt;The Computer&lt;/em&gt; at the start of the game then it is really hard to keep up with them.  There are other strong cards in the game like &lt;em&gt;Holographic Projection&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;The Captain&lt;/em&gt; so it doesn't feel like the game is broken to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that you are a much better player than your opponents are and it is this that grinds them down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T09:52:12.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8335" CreationDate="2014-01-02T19:00:54.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://guillotinegames.com/en/gamerules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;version 3&lt;/a&gt; rules have been updated to read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuffle the Zombie cards into one deck and the Equipment cards into another, then place them face down close to the board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which makes things clearer. I still stand by my point that for a &quot;gentler&quot; start, having the Zombie deck in order is a good way to start, but for greater challenge a shuffled deck is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T19:00:54.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-02T20:41:39.287" Score="6" ViewCount="5824" Body="&lt;p&gt;Then the attacking monster would enter Tokyo Bay unless both spots are yielded and attacker enters Tokyo City?  This is important because when monsters are eliminated and there become fewer than 5 players, the rules state that the monster in Tokyo Bay vacates their position leaving only Tokyo City occupied, so the exact location of a monster in Tokyo becomes relevant at that point.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After a Monster that is not in Tokyo attacks, it must take control of Tokyo if either Tokyo City or Tokyo Bay are unoccupied or abandoned. If there is a choice, Tokyo City must be occupied first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Tokyo Bay monster doesn't take over, then there could be a scenario where the monster in Tokyo City dies because of a card leaving only 4 players and the monster in Tokyo Bay would be forced to leave, leaving Tokyo unoccupied.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again quoting the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Monster is eliminated and that&#xA;  brings the number of Monsters&#xA;  below 5, Tokyo Bay can't be occu&#xA;  pied anymore. The Monster in it&#xA;  must leave Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to make more sense that Tokyo Bay monster would move to Tokyo City, but it is not spelled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6504" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T09:09:59.833" Title="In King of Tokyo advanced play, does the monster in Tokyo Bay move into Tokyo City if the Tokyo City monster yields?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14036" CreationDate="2014-01-02T21:16:08.837" Score="27" ViewCount="6366" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why does Magic: The Gathering have &quot;The Gathering&quot; in its title?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is being &quot;gathered&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T22:17:12.283" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T17:58:12.307" Title="In Magic: the Gathering, what is being gathered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14035" CreationDate="2014-01-02T21:21:23.963" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is partially answered in the article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/26&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;25 Random Things About Magic&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic was almost not called Magic. In fact, when the first solicitation for the game was sent out the game was called Mana Clash. The reason for this is as follows. Richard (Garfield, of course) called the game Magic when he originally designed it. All through the original playtests the game was called Magic. Then when they went to officially name it, they got a lawyer involved who informed them that Magic was too broad of a word to ever be able to copyright. So they started looking for alternatives. Mana Clash was the name they liked best from that search and thus they used it on the solicitation. But everyone playing the game (Richard, the playtesters and the people at Wizards) still called the game Magic. The name just seemed too perfect. They went back to the lawyer and asked what they could do to call it Magic. The lawyer told them they needed to add something else unique and &amp;quot;ownable&amp;quot; onto it that allowing them to copyright the name as a whole. That is how &amp;quot;The Gathering&amp;quot; was added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the specific choice &lt;em&gt;the Gathering&lt;/em&gt; is described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.collectorsquest.com/blog/2008/08/10/magic-the-gathering-part-three-an-interview-with-richard-garfield-phd/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this interview&lt;/a&gt; with Richard Garfield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is it called Magic : The Gathering?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Well… there’s a few answers to that. When it first came out, we said ‘the gathering’ was a gathering of friends, a gathering of people, and a gathering of cards. It seemed like a good descriptor for our first set. We were expecting our second set to be ‘Magic : Ice Age’, and to have chapters in this book going along, but that was before we sort of ran them all together. So all the cards are now part of Magic : The Gathering – which originally going to be like the first chapter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“My name for it was ‘Magic’, and the reason we didn’t use that is simply because ‘magic’ is a hard thing to own, and there were all sorts of really terrible names that were floating around that we could own – but Magic : The Gathering was a good final resting spot because we could own ‘Magic : The Gathering’ and people could still call it ‘Magic’.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative interpretation is that it refers to the gathering of magic/mana, to gather power/force from the world around to cast spells, although I don't have a reference for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T17:58:12.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14037" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14038" CreationDate="2014-01-02T22:35:18.840" Score="4" ViewCount="8476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have among others the following two permanents in play under my command:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Derevi%2C%20Emyrical%20Tactician&quot;&gt;Derevi, Emyrical Tactician&lt;/a&gt;, which has &amp;quot;Whenever Derevi, Empyrical Tactician enters the battlefield or a creature you control deals combat damage to a player, you may tap or untap target permanent.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a creature enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Presence%20of%20Gond&quot;&gt;Presence of Gond&lt;/a&gt;, which reads &amp;quot;Enchant creature. Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: Put a 1/1 green Elf Warrior token onto the battlefield.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am not certain if the following reasoning is correct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I attack with four creatures and all deal damage to my opponent, then Derevi's ability is triggered four times, and four instances of &amp;quot;You may tap or untap target permanent&amp;quot; go onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules state for the combat damage step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. I get priority while those four Tap-Untap-abilities are still on the stack. I activate the Make-Token-ability of the creature enchanted with &lt;em&gt;Presence of Gond&lt;/em&gt; and it goes on top of the stack. When all pass priority, this one resolve and a token enters the battlefield, when all pass priority again (assuming nothing triggered when the token entered the battlefield), the first of the Tap-Untap resolve and I can untap the enchanted creature. While I have priority I tap it again for another token. Rinse and repeat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this work? Can I make this way five tokens (with the enchanted creature ending up tapped)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6507" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-01-02T22:46:27.590" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T02:10:30.000" Title="Triggered abilities: Whenever a creature deals damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14037" CreationDate="2014-01-02T22:40:15.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do that. Each creature you control that deals damage to a player triggers the ability and puts another copy on the stack. Then after each triggered ability resolves, each player gets priority, so you can again tap your enchanted creature to put another token into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you must choose the targets for each instance of the triggered ability when they are put on the stack. Importantly, this means that if the enchanted creature is destroyed in the middle of this process, then the rest of the untap abilities still on the stack fail to resolve, and you can't use them to tap or untap anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-03T02:10:30.000" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T02:10:30.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14040" CreationDate="2014-01-02T22:56:41.930" Score="5" ViewCount="11296" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I control 2 copies of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376457&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Primal Vigor&lt;/a&gt; which reads: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one or more tokens would be put onto the battlefield, twice that&#xA;  many of those tokens are put onto the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one or more +1/+1 counters would be placed on a creature, twice&#xA;  that many +1/+1 counters are placed on that creature instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376404&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marath, Will of the Wild&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Marath, Will of the Wild enters the battlefield with a number of +1/+1&#xA;  counters on it equal to the amount of mana spent to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{X}, Remove X +1/+1 counters from Marath: Choose one —&#xA;  Put X +1/+1 counters on target creature; or Marath deals X damage to&#xA;  target creature or player; or put an X/X green Elemental creature&#xA;  token onto the battlefield. X can't be 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Marath, Will of the Wild enters the battlefield if I have spent 3 mana to cast it, he enters with 3 counters, because those tokens weren't placed on it, but it had them already when it entered. &lt;strong&gt;A: Is this Correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I pay 3 and remove 3 +1/+1 counters from Marath and put them on &lt;strong&gt;itself&lt;/strong&gt;, it now has 12 counters, because both Primal Vigors trigger, the first replacement effect changing 3 counters to 6, and the second replacement effect changing 6 counters to 12? &lt;strong&gt;B: Is this correct?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does Marath die, because between payment and when the ability resolved, it ended up with 0 toughness? I guess the removing is part of the cost, as it comes before the colon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6507" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-01-03T02:01:27.733" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T13:12:59.987" Title="Put twice as many tokens/counters" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14039" CreationDate="2014-01-02T23:11:06.527" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Marath will enter the battlefield with 12 counters, because of this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.6. If a spell or ability refers to a counter being “placed” on a permanent, it means putting a counter on that permanent while it’s on&#xA;  the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;or that permanent entering the battlefield with a&#xA;  counter on it as the result of a replacement effect&lt;/strong&gt; (see rule 614.1c).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use Marath's ability to remove all the counters, it will die before the abilty resolves unless you are increasing its thoughness in some other way. But you are right that it will get four times the number of counters you removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2014-01-02T23:11:06.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14026" CreationDate="2014-01-03T01:18:46.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1067044/top-of-the-research-tracks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the official answer&lt;/a&gt; on BGG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The space with the magnifying glass is the top space, and you cannot move beyond it. If more than one player reaches the top space, they are tied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T01:18:46.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14034" CreationDate="2014-01-03T03:43:47.960" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Monsters do not move from Tokyo Bay to Tokyo City.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 5-player game, there are multiple possible outcomes when you are attacking Tokyo City and Tokyo Bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If neither Monster dies&lt;/strong&gt; - The attacker occupies Tokyo City , since you are still playing 5-player. The Monster in Tokyo Bay can choose to yield or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the Monster in Tokyo City dies&lt;/strong&gt; - The attacker occupies Tokyo City, and the Monster in Tokyo Bay must leave per the rule you quoted above, because there are now only 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the Monster in Tokyo Bay dies&lt;/strong&gt; - The attacker occupies Tokyo City if the Monster in Tokyo City yields.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If both Monsters die&lt;/strong&gt; - The attacker occupies Tokyo City , since you are still playing 3-player. Neither Monster can choose to yield, because they are dead. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T03:43:47.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1833" CreationDate="2014-01-03T04:52:12.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say it however you want (don't insist that all your friends say it the 'right' way).  If you care, the author of the game pronounces it ah-GREE-ko-la. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10:20 into the interview: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cliquenabend.de/videos/450000-Hernevideospezial-Uwe-Rosenberg.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cliquenabend.de/videos/450000-Hernevideospezial-Uwe-Rosenberg.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6458" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T04:52:12.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13888" CreationDate="2014-01-03T12:33:51.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i'm playing with an amateur partner using just the simplest system ever, then I would bid 2S. This bid promises 5-card hearts, at least invitational values (10+ points) and it is forcing. Have in mind that 1NT rebid by opener denies 4-card spades, so there is no danger of playing in spades. Partner will bid hearts if he has 3 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the simplest system ever i think that after 1C-1H-1NT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2C =sign-off&#xA;2D =sign-off&#xA;2H =sign-off&#xA;2S =5h,4s 10+&#xA;2NT=4h, 10-11&#xA;3C =4?h, 4+c, 10-11&#xA;3D =5h, 4d, 12+&#xA;3H =5h, 10-11&#xA;3S =6h,5s FG&#xA;3NT=4h, 12+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you want to improve your bidding you should use the CBS(checkback stayman) convention, along with canape-bids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T12:33:51.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13205" CreationDate="2014-01-03T18:47:28.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thus far, the best use cases I've seen have been that scrolls and curses can be used at any time whatsoever even if you aren't in an adjacent room. You do have to read some of the cards carefully, as it may determine before or during a combat phase. Potions are still as they were, only adjacent or same room. With the portal expansion, potions can be used across portals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an older discussion I found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=90715&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Munchkin Quest forums&lt;/a&gt; that seems to back up this train of thought. Seems to also be backed by Steve Jackson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastEditorUserId="5983" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T14:38:41.583" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T14:38:41.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14050" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-03T19:17:17.387" Score="4" ViewCount="674" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to play games of Magic solitaire to test my decks (particularly Commander games, but the same would apply to any game). I also like to share the raw data from the game with my friends. Currently, I simply record the state of the game, transcribe it, and send it - but that requires them to keep a constant mental image of the entire game, including hand contents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, using a computer program for this would reduce the mental burden. But if I'm going to do that, I really need to have a file format I can send the game files in. So my question is... is there a standardized file format for describing the events of a Magic game? Something like what PGN does for Chess, but for Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T00:03:46.797" Title="Is there a standard file format for Magic the Gathering games?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|notation|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14050" CreationDate="2014-01-03T19:26:40.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Right now, the closest thing to an &quot;industry standard&quot; for sharing games is video, using services such as Twitch TV and YouTube. This is how Wizards does event coverage and how many Magic writers share their games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players often record their voice as they play or go back later and add commentary. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGXG5rNe_tI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a fairly typical example&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Magic Online keeps a history of game states that could be used for replays, but access to the data has generally been limited (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/php/news/print.php?Article=10346&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;leading to players resorting to engine quirks and workarounds to get at it&lt;/a&gt;). Last I checked, the data's still not easily accessible, nor is it very portable or shareable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-04T00:03:46.797" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T00:03:46.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14053" CreationDate="2014-01-03T22:26:02.333" Score="4" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several years ago I was at a friends house and he had this particular item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a box full of simple components, a board, and rules for multiple games. The idea behind it was the components were given to several designers (4 or 5 I think), and they each created a game using the components in the box. I don't remember the name of it, or the names of any of the game designers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things I remember about the games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some of the components were wooden pegs. The pegs were of various heights, and there were the same set of pegs for multiple colours (4 or 5?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the games was about (or a major component of it was) holding elections&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the games (I think) was about building stonehenge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the games awarded the title &quot;Mighty Beard&quot; to the winner. I believe in this game each player was a druid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The passage of Day and Night was relevant to some games. Things that were good at night were bad during the day, and vis versa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think the board had circles of various sizes on it, with smaller circles inside the larger circles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T22:43:26.507" Title="Multiple games in same box using same components. What was it?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14052" CreationDate="2014-01-03T22:43:26.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20436/stonehenge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stonehenge: an anthology board game&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stonehenge is an anthology board game, a new concept where five award-winning game designers, all using the same gaming components, create five very different games in one box. The ancient ruin of Stonehenge will never be the same. The five games are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a magic game by Richard Garfield (Magic: The Gathering, RoboRally, The Great Dalmuti)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a political game by Bruno Faidutti (Mystery of the Abbey, Citadels, Knightmare Chess)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a battle game by Richard Borg (Battle Cry, Liar's Dice, Memoir '44)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an auction game by James Ernest (Kill Dr. Lucky, Diceland, Pirates of the Spanish Main)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a science-fiction game by Mike Selinker (Risk Godstorm, Pirates, Axis &amp;amp; Allies Revised)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T22:43:26.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14055" CreationDate="2014-01-03T22:50:05.657" Score="6" ViewCount="2208" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Lords of Waterdeep the intrigue card Accelerate Plans says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose one of your agents assigned to Waterdeep Harbor. Return it to your pool, then immediately assign two agents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our resident &quot;expert&quot; says that this requires you to have one agent already in Waterdeep harbor before you can place an agent and play this card. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5792" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T22:55:37.273" Title="In Lords of Waterdeep, how is Accelerated Plans played?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14054" CreationDate="2014-01-03T22:55:37.273" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that is incorrect. On your turn, you first place an agent in Waterdeep Harbor, and then, as a result of doing so, you get to play an Intrigue card. So by the time you play that card, you automatically have at least 1 agent in the Harbor (the one you just played).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is possible to play an Intrigue card in other ways, such as a reward for completing a quest. In this case, it's possible that you wouldn't have an agent in the Harbor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See discussion on this same question here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/781681/question-about-accelerate-plans-intrigue-card&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/781681/question-about-accelerate-plans-intrigue-card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-03T22:55:37.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14058" CreationDate="2014-01-04T01:00:29.230" Score="10" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently lost a game of Dominion where my opponent spammed Minion repeatedly. During this he racked up tons of coin while forcing me to discard my hand once per turn. I cannot remember the other cards on the board but during the game I was unable to successfully counter. Besides Moat or Lighthouse what are some good strategies to fight off Minion? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T04:30:11.467" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T04:30:11.467" Title="Good counter to Minion in Dominion: Intrigue" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2143" CreationDate="2014-01-04T01:09:50.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a really interesting tactic that can be used on the last turn of the game. If you know you are losing and need a decent amount of points to catch up and you cannot build a track to give you those points you then draw 3 tickets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is by grabbing tickets hopefully you pull one that you have already completed. If so, you now gain a significant amount of points putting you closer or ahead of you opponent. If you don't get a card that you've already completed discard the two largest point amounts and take your loss in style. It doesn't matter much though because the only time you should ever do this is if you have fewer points and can catch up by no other means.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T01:09:50.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14056" CreationDate="2014-01-04T01:58:00.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have seen, Minion is a powerful card that, unlike many other Dominion cards, &quot;combos&quot; well with itself: if you draw two you can play one for cash and one to get a new hand, possibly getting another Minion, and attacking the opponent as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minion is a card that's difficult to ignore. There are several ways you might consider to handle it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably the clearest way to handle it, and the one that is always available, is to &lt;strong&gt;pursue Minions yourself&lt;/strong&gt;. The Minions are powerful and every one you buy is one that your opponent or opponents cannot. If you choose this route, you usually want to go all-out to buy as many as you can. In a two-player game, getting 6 of the 10 Minions while the other player is stuck with 4 is a big deal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cursing and junking attacks&lt;/strong&gt; are powerful counters to Minion. By filling your opponent's deck with space-wasting cards, they make it much less likely that the Minions will &quot;power up&quot; by showing up in the same hand. Sea Hag, Witch, Ambassador, Cultist, Marauder, of of course Mountebank are a few to look out for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Draw-up-to&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; effects can be an okay counter to Minion's discard, although they're not as effective as they are against, say, Militia. Still, Jack of all Trades is a powerful card in any board and probably worth considering if you're not going with Minions yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Of the Reactions, &lt;strong&gt;Tunnel&lt;/strong&gt; is powerful on any Minion board, whether you're the one playing the Minions or not--all those discarded Tunnels turn into Gold! &lt;strong&gt;Horse Traders&lt;/strong&gt; is another powerful choice if you can spare room for the terminal action, since it neuters the attack and gives you a free card to boot. &lt;strong&gt;Moat&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Lighthouse&lt;/strong&gt; blunt the attack, but aren't super powerful in their own right; Lighthouse is a bit easier to fit into most decks. &lt;strong&gt;Secret Chamber&lt;/strong&gt; looks attractive (save your favorite cards for the hand you're about to draw) but if Minions are flying around, its ability to discard junk for cash might be worth very little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T01:58:00.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14056" CreationDate="2014-01-04T02:06:52.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like most Dominion questions, it depends on the board, so only general advice is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first principle is that Minion is simply a very good card — it lets you accumulate money while drawing more cards. The damage the discard does to the opponents is nice, but it’s not that significant. Frequently, the best counter to Minion is going to be getting your own Minions. Evaluating other potential strategies’ speed in relation to Minion is something that requires experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main approaches to actively countering Minion are to improve your own deck’s robustness in the face of discard attacks, and to slow down your opponent’s deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slowing down their deck is easy — if there are attacks that fill their deck up with junk, use them. Discard attacks don’t help — as long as they have a Minion left in hand, they’re off to the races. For this purpose, Torturer is a discard attack — a Minion deck will pretty much never take a curse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making your own deck more robust is a harder subject. Except for cards that get better when your hand is smaller (Library, Menagerie) or that let you usefully react (Tunnel, Horse Traders), it’s not really any different from the art of making your deck good in the first place. If you can build a strong card-drawing engine, the fact that you’re starting from four cards won’t matter much. If you can trash all your junk, four cards should be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest difference is that the marginal cards (particularly those that aren’t +1 card, +1 action) are proportionally weaker. That includes both Moat and Lighthouse, particularly Moat. Yeah, they’re fine if you have them when the opponent Minions, but if you draw them in the four-card hand, they mean you’re unlikely to be able to buy anything great this turn. If you’re playing with four-card hands, the average value of your cards needs to be higher — you can’t get away with cards that aren’t really pulling their weight. Before buying a card, ask yourself if it’s really helping your deck, or if you’re just buying it because you think you want to buy something every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is true in every game of Dominion. It’s just more true when your opponent is throwing Minions around all the time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T02:06:52.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14013" CreationDate="2014-01-04T06:33:27.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules can be tricky to find stuff in, but it's there:  page 11, under the heading &lt;strong&gt;Determine Which Die You're Using&lt;/strong&gt;, second paragraph:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Y]ou may play only 1 card or use only 1 power that changes the skill you are going to use.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you're playing correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="742" LastEditorUserId="5463" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T17:26:52.447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T17:26:52.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14061" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T13:03:56.190" Score="0" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blistering%20Dieflyn&quot;&gt;Blistering Dieflyn&lt;/a&gt; gains +1/+0 when you use a swamp or mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tap multiple mountains or swamps, can it be for example 5/1? Can you use multiple lands on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6531" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-01-04T14:32:35.170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T14:56:28.687" Title="How does Blistering Dieflyn work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T14:14:40.867" Score="3" ViewCount="1226" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi i just bought myself Pandemic and played for the first time last night. I have mixed thoughts about the game. I love the setting, and i think it looks fab, but there's definitely something lacking with the game which i can't quite put my finger on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played it 3 times. We won on the intro game. We won on the normal game, we cured 3 of 4 diseases on the hardest game. I thought this was meant to be a hard game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that the expansion packs are what make Pandemic, but as i find myself finishing off my Gumtree ad to sell the game, i can't help but wonder if i should be giving it another chance. I think my major problem with it is that it's a co-op game, and i really am not big with co-op games, i just wanted one in my collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice on the expansions you prefer or your thoughts on the game would be welcomed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6532" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T16:23:53.580" Title="Pandemic - Will the expansions really make a difference?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-01-13T16:46:17.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14061" CreationDate="2014-01-04T14:50:18.050" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, though most often you get your mana from lands, it's not &amp;quot;when you use a swamp or a mountain&amp;quot; but &amp;quot;when you pay a black or red mana&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, you can activate the ability multiple times, for example paying 2 red and 2 black mana to give it a total of +4/+0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called an activated ability, as is anything else of the form &amp;quot;[cost]: [effect]&amp;quot; (note the colon). You can activate an activated ability as many times as you want, as long as you can pay the cost. Sometimes their cost is tapping (for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cinderhaze%20Wretch&quot;&gt;Cinderhaze Wretch&lt;/a&gt;), in which case since you can't tap something that's already tapped, you'll only be able to use the ability once at a time. But in this case, the cost is simply mana, which you can pay repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you are technically activating the ability multiple separate times, not just paying more for a bigger effect all at once. The difference doesn't usually matter, but in some cases it can be handy to do something in between activations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-04T14:56:28.687" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T14:56:28.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T16:47:55.667" Score="2" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Dream Sprite and Decoy Dragon can change the attack target of a monster and if Dream Sprite was used to change the attack to Decoy Dragon would Decoy Dragon be attacked or would Decoy Dragons effect take place? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6533" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T20:56:24.807" Title="Can I use Decoy Dragon's effect after Dream Sprite's effect?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2014-01-04T16:56:51.967" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far my wife and I have only played two player games.  Both times we eradicated the yellow disease and it gave us the breathing room to focus on finding the rest of the cures.  The trick is to make liberal use of your special ability and don't forget about research station to research station travel.  That ends up being the most effective way to get around the board without having to discard crucial cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5968" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T16:56:51.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2014-01-04T17:23:03.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not an RSS feed, but if you're after Chess puzzles, in addition to the daily puzzle and free tactics, Chess.com also has a variety of subscription options that offer unlimited daily tactics puzzles (and computer workouts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then download the Chess.com app for your smartphone, iOS or Android, (or set up email alerts), you will can be reminded with notifications (in addition to having an endless and expansive Chess resource). Not RSS, but a considerably better alternative I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2014-01-04T17:23:03.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14068" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-04T17:52:37.743" Score="2" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had Pandemic and On The Brink for a while, recently we tried giving the Bio-Terrorist challenge a go. We weren't sure how many epidemic cards to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the standard game (no purple cubes but using the role cards from On The Brink) we usually use 5 epidemics and with experienced players win probably about half the time. As the Bio-Terrorist I suggested using 5 epidemics, but the other 2 players wanted to use 4 so we went with that. In the end I won quite early on when the first epidemic card caused a massive chain-reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;is the Bio-Terrorist variant harder than the standard game?&lt;/strong&gt; The other players thought so, as you have a 5th disease to deal with. I'm not so sure as the purple disease is quite easy to cure and the cards that the Bio-Terrorist draws and discards ought to lessen the impact of epidemics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:00:22.713" Title="How many epidemic cards to use with the Bio-Terrorist challenge?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22809" CreationDate="2014-01-04T18:22:11.710" Score="7" ViewCount="3685" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some good general tactics and strategy for the Bio-terrorist to use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Where should I start?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I started close to one of the cards I was dealt. I thought this would be useful as I'd be able to use the card to fly anywhere on the board. In the end I locally infected the city on the card 3 times and then used the card to remotely infect it and cause an outbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Should I Avoid Drawing and Discarding Cards?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it help the players when I discard cards? I figure a large discard pile lessens the impact of an epidemic so if I can avoid discarding cards then I should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Should I Worry About Being Captured?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems like being captured isn't much of a problem, as it's easy to escape. I'd lose all my cards, but if I don't keep many in my hand then that's OK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How Do The Other Roles Affect Tactics?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I destroyed a research station early on, however one of the players was the Operation Expert and he immediately built another one. So it probably wasn't worth doing. Are there any other similar examples?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T17:00:24.417" Title="Bio-terrorist Tactics / Strategy" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14070" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14075" CreationDate="2014-01-04T20:15:55.860" Score="0" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Background: this was previously part of a longer question which has been edited into multiple smaller questions. I’ve already researched selling Magic cards, including reading through &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3161/how-do-i-find-out-a-fair-price-for-my-magic-the-gathering-cards&quot;&gt;How do I find out a fair price for my Magic the Gathering cards?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5458/where-can-i-sell-my-magic-the-gathering-cards&quot;&gt;Where can I sell my Magic: The Gathering cards?&lt;/a&gt;, and am getting into finer detail.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've noticed on eBay that many Uncommons seem to be sold individually. Assuming I have the time and interest in doing this (I have both), does anyone have experience selling uncommons like this? Generally speaking, can you even sell them profitably or do you just end up selling them in bulk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6350" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T08:02:06.203" Title="Can Uncommon Magic cards be sold individually for a profit?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14073" CreationDate="2014-01-05T02:49:13.060" Score="6" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if you enter a gate and, later before closing, another investigator enters the same gate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are returned to Arkham but the other investigator would be in the Another World trying to return to the same gate that you will try to close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1441" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T02:23:42.970" Title="What happens when you want to close a gate but there's another investigator in Other World?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14072" CreationDate="2014-01-05T03:42:31.583" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the gate the second investigator came through (or another gate to the same world) is open when they try to return, then they would return as normal to whichever gate they choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if there are no open gates to that Other World, then the investigator would be lost in time and space. For reference, this is on page 8 of the Arkham Horror rulebook, under the &lt;strong&gt;Other World Movement&lt;/strong&gt; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T03:42:31.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13600" CreationDate="2014-01-05T04:47:32.757" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, you will not win.  According to the comprehensive rules on infinite loops, if a loop contains only mandatory effects, the game ends in a draw.  Since the cards don't say may, they are mandatory.  Sorry no game winning combo here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6536" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T04:47:32.757" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14070" CreationDate="2014-01-05T08:02:06.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just some uncommon cards can sell individually, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/item/126325&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/item/110381&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt;(before banned). You can check eBay or website like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Card Kingdom&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Cards Info&lt;/a&gt; and so on to track the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6420" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T08:02:06.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-05T18:40:19.160" Score="7" ViewCount="23252" Body="&lt;p&gt;can a player move &lt;em&gt;backwards&lt;/em&gt; into &lt;em&gt;their safety zone&lt;/em&gt; in the game of Sorry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6540" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T10:06:46.577" Title="moving backwards into a safety zone in the game Sorry" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14077" CreationDate="2014-01-05T22:53:24.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/sorry.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, under the &quot;Safety Zone&quot; section: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No pawn may enter its SAFETY ZONE by a backward move&lt;/strong&gt;; however, a pawn may move backward out of its SAFETY ZONE and on subsequent turns move back into the ZONE as cards permit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-05T22:53:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14081" CreationDate="2014-01-05T23:24:15.760" Score="3" ViewCount="33553" Body="&lt;p&gt;So let's say I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=pernicious%20deed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pernicious Deed&lt;/a&gt; that lets you &lt;em&gt;&quot;destroy each artifact, creature, and enchantment with converted mana cost X or less&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Do tokens (e.g. those produced by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sliver Queen&lt;/a&gt;) get destroyed? What about lands that are creatures thanks to, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=43599&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ambush Commander&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-05T23:55:56.833" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T21:08:21.693" Title="Converted mana costs of tokens and manlands" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14080" CreationDate="2014-01-05T23:25:56.813" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A token that is created with characteristics defined in the effect generally has converted mana cost 0. The relevant rules are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5b&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: A token doesn't have any characteristics not defined by the spell or ability that created it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Mana&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3a&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: The converted mana cost of an object with no mana cost is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a token is a copy of another permanent or card, then it has all of the characteristics of the original, including its mana cost. So, it's converted mana cost is the same as the converted mana cost of the original permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Copying_objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;706.2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics... The &amp;quot;copiable values&amp;quot; are... mana cost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be modified by the copy effect. For example, the keyword ability Embalm is defined like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.gamepedia.com/Embalm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.127a&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: Embalm is an activated ability that functions while the card with embalm is in a graveyard. “Embalm [cost]” means “[Cost], Exile this card from your graveyard: &lt;strong&gt;Create a token that’s a copy of this card&lt;/strong&gt;, except it’s white, &lt;strong&gt;it has no mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;, and it’s a Zombie in addition to its other types. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, as mentioned above, the converted mana cost of the embalmed copy is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For permanents that have no mana symbols in their mana costs, their CMC is also 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this, the relevant rules are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Cost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: Some mana costs contain no mana symbols. This represents an unpayable cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Mana&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;: The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-05-23T21:08:21.693" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11077" CreationDate="2014-01-06T01:19:01.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking to get the correct thickness for the cards, ask the print shop to print them on 14-point paper, or whatever they have in stock that requires a printer drum to have a rating of just over 300 psi. Through some experimentation at my job and a bit of research, I've discovered that to be the thickness of all trading cards. If they don't have a machine with a drum that can handle it, they'll know someone in the area that will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping in line with ikegami's comment, I would recommend not printing a back on the cards unless you expect them to be unsleeved for any great length of time. The price of the paper is, relatively, marginal; it will generally cost a dollar's worth of cardstock to print a large number of cards. However, tonor is really expensive, and it'll easily be 80-85% of your total project cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My one other recommendation would be to cut the cards yourself. Unless you personally know the person cutting out the cards, you'll most likely get unseemly white edges and the occasional slanted cut, especially if their cutting machine is slightly off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6545" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T01:19:01.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T02:19:08.510" Score="2" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the Alexandria board side A, are players allowed to buy the resources given in the second wonder? Or are they 'special resources' like the ones give by yellow cards... aka not transferable to other players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit:&#xA;Sorry the rules state that &quot;Clarification: these resources cannot be bought by neighboring cities.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6547" LastEditorUserId="6122" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T22:17:52.247" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:54:53.403" Title="Can resources in Alexandria's side A second wonder be bought by other players?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14086" CreationDate="2014-01-06T07:29:08.127" Score="4" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;So normally in tournaments you're restricted to a max of four identical cards per deck but can you, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Tutor#Search_for_a_card_outside_the_game_.28Wishes.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wishes&lt;/a&gt;, get, into your hand, a fifth Force of Will, or a second Yawgmoth's Will or something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T08:00:01.290" Title="can wishes let you get 5x of a card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14085" CreationDate="2014-01-06T08:00:01.290" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In tournaments &quot;outside the game&quot; as stated on the wishes only consists of your sideboard. The maximum of 4 of one card rule extends to your sideboard. So your deck + sideboard can only have 4 of one card, so NO you can't have a 5th card this way in tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T08:00:01.290" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2014-01-06T08:21:31.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I subscribe to &quot;&lt;em&gt;Daily Chess Puzzles&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;em&gt;Chess&lt;/em&gt;.com&quot; and the puzzles start easy on Sunday and get progressively harder until Saturday, where they're the most difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T08:21:31.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2014-01-06T13:49:19.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://playtou.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Playtou.com&lt;/a&gt; is a portal that hosts tournaments (both paid for financial prizes and free). You can play chess, checkers, gomoku, reversi (othello) and roshambo there. You have to register in order to play but the registration is free. There is no client software you need only web browser. You play in a real time. The site also has a rank system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6550" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T13:49:19.953" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-06T13:49:19.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14062" CreationDate="2014-01-06T16:23:53.580" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First make sure you are playing the game correctly. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/30549/pandemic&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Our first game was easy! Are we doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Probably. But the game is easier with fewer players and/or fewer Epidemics in&#xA;  the deck. You may also visit this thread to see if you missed&#xA;  something: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/300287/common-mistakes&quot;&gt;Common mistakes&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also try the game with different number of players. A two-player game is different and apparently easier than a four-player game. There is also quite a big lucky factor involved depending on how the infections are distributed and how early the epidemic cards occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still find the game too easy but otherwise like it, consider buying On the Brink expansion. It adds variety to the game by providing a lot more roles. It can also make the game harder by offering new challenges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like the game, you probably don't like it with the expansions either. For me the base version was fun on it's own and hard enough, as we failed to find cures for any deseases on the first game with the easiest difficulty level when playing with four people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5782" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T16:23:53.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14091" CreationDate="2014-01-06T16:48:30.820" Score="1" ViewCount="1818" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that once all three sets in a block are out, a draft consists of one pack of each; and I know that when only the first set is out, a draft consists of three packs of that set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the format when only two sets are out? Does the format change depending on which sets are large and which are small? And what happened to draft during Lorwyn–Shadowmoor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:22:26.543" Title="How is the current format for an MTG booster draft calculated?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14090" CreationDate="2014-01-06T17:22:26.543" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast designs sets for specific Limited environments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intended draft format for Lorwyn/Shadowmoor block was:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lorwyn draft: 3x Lorwyn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Morningtide draft: 2x Lorwyn, 1x Morningtide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadowmoor draft: 3x Shadowmoor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventide draft: 2x Shadowmoor, 1x Eventide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards from the two halves of the set were not intended to be drafted together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Document.aspx?x=Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules&quot;&gt;MTG Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; specify the officially-recommended booster mix for current sets (see Appendix D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T17:22:26.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14098" CreationDate="2014-01-06T19:48:30.763" Score="7" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a player is constructing a wonder phase, what strategy is used to pick the card, and is the value of the card used for anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The value of the card serves no purpose once being used to construct a wonder phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The action of constructing a wonder is similar to discarding, except:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;a. the player receives the benefits of the wonder phase instead of 3 coins, and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b. the card does not have the possibility of being reused later vs. those in the discard pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to 2b, the player should pick a card that they don't want to and/or can't use themselves, and also don't want other players to be able to benefit from (I believe the instructions state something to this effect).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these assumptions correct, and/or are there other considerations I'm leaving out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6554" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T16:48:06.500" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T02:17:22.600" Title="Is there a strategy to choosing the card used to construct a wonder phase?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-06T20:23:08.600" Score="2" ViewCount="8596" Body="&lt;p&gt;What will happen to a creature if it's been killed either after being targetted by spells or by blocking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;example 1:&#xA;Player A casts Chandra's Outrage targeting Angelic Wall; Player B uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crystal%20Shard&quot;&gt;Crystal Shard&lt;/a&gt;'s ability (return target creature to its owner's hand) to return Angelic Wall to his hand.  Does Player A's spell still resolve and find new targets?  And if Player B has no other creatures and Player A has the only creatures in play, would it target one of Player A's creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if Player B waited for Chandra's Outrage to resolve and the Angelic Wall dies, when Player B uses the Crystal Shard ability on Angelic Wall before it goes into graveyard will it take effect?  Will Angelic Wall be returned to Player B's hand rather than going to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;example 2:&#xA;Player A attacks with a 3/3 creature and Player B blocks with a creature that's only a 2/2 and then lets damage resolve.  When Player B uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crystal%20Shard&quot;&gt;Crystal Shard&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, will his 2/2 creature be returned to his hand instead of going to his graveyard?  And if Player B declared that his 2/2 will block Player A's creature, then used the Crystal Shard ability before damage resolves, does Player B's creature still block Player A's creature, or would Player A's creature get through because damage hasn't resolved yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T18:31:02.483" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T06:02:20.537" Title="What happens if a creature is returned to owner's hand after blocking or being targetted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14093" CreationDate="2014-01-06T20:26:50.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell with targets would resolve, and if it has no targets left, than that spell will be &lt;strong&gt;countered&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is known as &lt;strong&gt;fizzle&lt;/strong&gt;-ing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*note if the spell still has at least 1 target, it will still resolve.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=chandra%27s%20outrage&quot;&gt;chandra&amp;#39;s outrage&lt;/a&gt; only targets a creature, and therefore will be countered, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=flames%20of%20the%20firebrand&quot;&gt;flames of the firebrand&lt;/a&gt; will not be, if it still has at least 1 target left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 1':&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;no, player B would not be able to target the wall if it dies.  It will be put into the graveyard as a state-based effect before anyone gets priority to cast spells or activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=crystal%20shard&quot;&gt;crystal shard&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; blockers have been declared and &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; combat damage is dealt.  the 2/2 will return to your hand, and the 3/3 will still be considered blocked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once combat damage is dealt it's too late.  the 2/2 will go to the graveyard as a state-based effect before anyone gets priority to cast spells or activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2014-01-06T20:32:15.753" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T20:32:15.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14065" CreationDate="2014-01-06T20:56:24.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, Decoy Dragon would be attacked, due to an important part of Dreamsprite:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When attacked by your opponent's monster, select another 1 of your Monster Cards and designate it as the attack's target, &lt;strong&gt;then calculate damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that damage calculation must be immediately performed, so the Battle Step has been skipped. As Decoy Dragon's effect is activated &quot;when this card is selected as an attack target by your opponent's monster&quot;, it is only performed on the Battle Step (as that is when it is targeted), so is not activated in this case. An official ruling also backs this statement up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Decoy Dragon's&quot; effect is activated during the Battle Step when it is selected as the target for your opponent's attacking monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To back this up further Konami has also ruled the following two things about Dreamsprite:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you control &quot;Dreamsprite&quot;, &quot;The Legendary Fisherman&quot;, and &quot;Umi&quot; is on the field, &quot;Dreamsprite&quot;’s effect can still change an attack target to &quot;The Legendary Fisherman&quot; because he is not being targeted with an attack, but is being targeted with a monster effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Decoy Dragon would NOT be being targeted by the opponent's monster, but by Dreamsprite's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you control two &quot;Dreamsprites&quot; and one is attacked, you cannot continue to switch the attack target between the two &quot;Dreamsprites&quot; because the effect of &quot;Dreamsprite&quot; says that you must calculate damage on the new target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This further emphasises the point that the Battle Step is ended due to the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Konami's Individual Card Rulings (web archive version as it has not been online since early 2013): &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20090218205242/http://entertainment.upperdeck.com/yugioh/en/gameplay/faqs/cardfaqs/default.aspx?first=D&amp;amp;last=E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://web.archive.org/web/20090218205242/http://entertainment.upperdeck.com/yugioh/en/gameplay/faqs/cardfaqs/default.aspx?first=D&amp;amp;last=E&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6556" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T20:56:24.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14097" CreationDate="2014-01-06T21:15:03.883" Score="2" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card says &quot;Return Well&quot; in the top left hand corner, but that doesn't state whether you can only play that card if you own the well, or if in fact, anyone who has already bought the well must &quot;Return Well&quot; when you play the improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is only you who must return the well (assuming you own it), then can you still play the card if you don't own the well or is it only playable once you have already bought the well? (in which case, it is a very specific card to the point that it is invalid, useless and unusable if anyone else gets to the well before you!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T21:16:24.340" Title="Can you play the Village Well (minor improvement) even if you don't own the Well?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14096" CreationDate="2014-01-06T21:16:24.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;return well&quot; wording is a cost to play the card, just like when other cards show &quot;1 wood&quot; or &quot;2 clay&quot; to play them. So you cannot play a card that says &quot;return well&quot; unless you pay the cost of returning a well. So you need to first purchase the well before you can play Village Well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T21:16:24.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14092" CreationDate="2014-01-06T22:16:00.367" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Picking the right card often is an important strategic choice, and I think you've got a decent feel for the main part of that - use a card that you don't want yourself, and that you don't want your opponents getting. In particular, I would tend to look at the next couple of players that the hand will be passed to, and see if I can spot a card that is key to their strategy that I can deny them. Alternatively, if nothing stands out, I'll see if any of the cards I have is a duplicate of one they already have, and bury a &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; card, thus reducing their options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-01-06T22:16:00.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14102" CreationDate="2014-01-07T01:09:52.710" Score="6" ViewCount="4453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Komplex - &lt;em&gt;presumably from the german for Complex, but in what way are they complex? More difficult to play or to be able to play them, less beneficial, or do they complicate the overall game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interactive - &lt;em&gt;Given the Komplex and Easy names, you would expect this to be called Intermediate, as another named difficulty level. How are these cards any more interactive than any of the others? Is it to do with synergies?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Easy - &lt;em&gt;same as question for Komplex, how are these actually any easier to play with than the others?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because I've now played with all of the decks (including mixed decks) and haven't really noticed any difference in game difficulty. If anything, the excellent buffs included in the Komplex pack seemed to make gameplay easier...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T02:22:35.473" Title="Why are the decks in Agricola called Komplex, Interactive and Easy?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2014-01-07T01:18:30.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Chess play there's no better website than &lt;strong&gt;Chess.com&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supports Chess and Chess960, including live (OTB), correspondence (turn-based over time, permits up to 10 days per turn, determined pre-game), vote-based and tournament play. You can play rated or unrated with the worlds biggest online chess community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's web based and also offers apps for iOS and Android. It's incredibly easy to use and features written and video tutorials, tactics puzzles and Q&amp;amp;A discussions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6479" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T01:18:30.460" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-07T01:18:30.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14100" CreationDate="2014-01-07T02:22:35.473" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My own thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Komplex Deck&lt;/strong&gt; - Yes. The rules for all occupations and minor improvements are more complex than E-Deck. Some improvements are harder to play. For instance, the Plow(plow 3 fields a time) improvement can be played as a combo in &lt;code&gt;Plow and also Sow&lt;/code&gt; but in Complex Deck, this is forbidden. But there are more bonus points can be collected via minors. More occupations can play additional round-action. Better oven(+5 points), better masion( +2 on stone rooms ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Interactive Deck&lt;/strong&gt; - There are some special minors that create additional actions allowing other players to play and the owner benefits with food, such as Tavern. Moreover, some occupations are &lt;code&gt;buyers&lt;/code&gt; ( reed buyer, wood buyer etc.,) that can &lt;em&gt;hijack&lt;/em&gt; other player's resource. More occupations are doing with other players instead of round-actions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Easy Deck&lt;/strong&gt; - All occupations and improvements are usually doing ONE particular action. And the prerequisite for them are not as hard/complex as Komplex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, I would not mix all these decks. I think some occupations of E-Deck/I-Deck are significantly powerful than K-Deck. For example, Fisherman, Backer, &lt;code&gt;Well builder(+Village Well + Water Carrier&lt;/code&gt;, this combination is the most cost-efficiency food generator, I think) etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6118" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T02:22:35.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14126" CreationDate="2014-01-07T02:22:46.730" Score="2" ViewCount="1216" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best Power Grid expansion for a beginner to buy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T19:20:20.893" Title="What's the best Power Grid expansion for a beginner?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-01-09T17:30:30.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14114" CreationDate="2014-01-07T07:31:43.730" Score="2" ViewCount="1551" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the instructions it says the Diver can swim &quot;across&quot; a flooded or abyss tile for one action. Does this means he can make a turn and go to the tile diagonal from his location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T08:20:06.037" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:53:37.507" Title="Is the Diver able to turn when swimming across a flooded or abyss tile?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14113" CreationDate="2014-01-07T07:35:33.187" Score="4" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 4 cards, take my turn, then draw two cards with one of them being sandbags. I must now discard a card to be at 5. Can I &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt; the sandbag card instead of discarding even though I have 6 cards in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:49:34.940" Title="Can you use sandbags as your discard when you have more than 5 cards?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14108" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:15:38.150" Score="3" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little unclear on the The Magic the Gathering card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHickory%20Woodlot%5d&quot;&gt;Hickory Woodlot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3RB2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hickory Woodlot enters the battlefield tapped with two depletion&#xA;counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap, Remove a depletion counter from Hickory Woodlot:&#xA;Add {G}{G} to your mana pool. If there are no depletion counters&#xA;on Hickory Woodlot, sacrifice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card is a land, so can it be tapped without removing a depletion counter to produce mana as normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you sacrifice it immediately after removing the counter? In other words do you have to have counters on it to use it's ability or can you use it one last time without?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-07-07T16:15:58.363" Title="How does the Hickory Woodlot card work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18386" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:25:36.600" Score="3" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about a particular combat scenario and it's going to need a diagram!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pwt0I.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a scenario which came up in our game last week. My units are blue, I'm in the front and the flank of a single unit of 3 monstrous cavalry (bloodcrushers I believe). My champion from the unit at the bottom is engaged in a challenge with the champion of the Bloodcrushers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my last turn of combat the marked bloodcrusher was killed by my flanking unit. As such they are no longer in base contact with the enemy unit (and even if they were they would touch the champion and so couldn't hit the regular troop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in this scenario? We came up with several options but couldn't agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The flanking unit are released from the combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The flanking unit move into base contact with the champion but due to the challenge they cannot strike or be attacked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The flanking unit moves into contact with the champion however they can only strike against the unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T17:41:28.007" Title="Is it possible to die out of a combat?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14106" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:26:34.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lands can only have the abilities printed on them. Any land that has one of the basic land subtypes (Plains, Island, etc.) also has an inherent ability to tap for one mana of the appropriate color. Hickory Woodlot is a land, but it has no basic land subtype, so it has no additional abilities of that sort besides what is printed. You can only tap this card for the ability using the depletion counters, to add 2 Green mana to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your second question, You perform all steps of an ability in order. First, you pay all costs (in this case, tapping and removing a depletion counter) and then, you perform all effects. The first effect is to generate the mana, then, there is a check against the depletion counters. This will check AFTER the counter has been removed, so you can essentially use this ability twice, and immediately after the second use, the land is sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:44:48.047" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:44:48.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14109" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14112" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:31:26.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm after some explanation on the rules returning a card to the owner's hand the question was raised by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=19559&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Darking Merfolk&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the scenario where I have Darting Merfolk in play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AmWUO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Darting Merfolk&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25490&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hand of Death&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cgSU1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decide to tap an island and return the Merfolk to my hand. Is the card destroyed or is it returned to my hand? Is Hand of Death put in the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:57:29.410" Title="When is a card returned to the owner's hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14111" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:36:40.473" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game with a friend a few years ago and I can't remember what we called it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game used a pack of dominos however you placed them around a central card. I believe it was a hexagon and required a double to start (although this may be incorrect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you placed your dominoes the game grew out in a star shape. As normal the game ended when a player managed to place all their dominoes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T12:43:14.897" Title="Identify this dominos game" Tags="|identify-this-game|dominoes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14110" CreationDate="2014-01-07T12:43:14.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mexican_Train&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mexican train Dominos.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also goes as train dominos as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T12:43:14.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14109" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:33:54.543" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would return to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have access to the MTG site to be able to cite the rulebook, but it's all down to the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack is played out in order, so new items go to the top of the stack and then the stack resolves from the top down. In this instance Hand of Death was cast and went on the stack, then you activated the Merfolk's ability which went above Hand of Death on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the spells and abilities on the stack resolve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darting Merfolk's ability resolves, returning it to your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand of Death tries to resolve, but the card it targeted is no longer on the battlefield, and does not exist to be targeted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hand of Death is countered and has no effect. (It goes to your opponent's graveyard.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend reading up on the Stack, understanding it is vital to getting the most out of Magic: The Gathering: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essentialmagic.com/articles/thestack.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guide to the Stack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T14:57:29.410" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:57:29.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14105" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:49:34.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  Page 6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamewright.com/gamewright/pdfs/Rules/ForbiddenIslandTM-RULES.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: You may use the power of a Special Action card if you are &#xA;  forced to discard it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:49:34.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14104" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:53:37.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, he can turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 4 of the rules state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Diver may move through one or more adjacent missing and/or flooded tiles for 1 action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a thread on BGG &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5046828#5046828&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; where the designer confirms that turns are allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:53:37.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14084" CreationDate="2014-01-07T13:54:53.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the asker points out, the rules specifically clarify that the resources are like those provided by yellow cards and cannot be bought by neighboring cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T13:54:53.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14068" CreationDate="2014-01-07T14:00:22.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strategy in the Bio-Terrorist variant is sufficiently different that it probably makes sense to start at 4 epidemics until both sides are comfortable with how it works.  It is easy for players to be too focused on stopping the terrorist and lose to the normal mechanics, or to completely ignore the terrorist and lose to the new mechanics.  A balance between the two is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, make sure that you are following all the rules for the Bio-Terrorist's actions.  Specifically, many of his actions are limited to only once per turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T14:00:22.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14117" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:17:22.150" Score="3" ViewCount="1143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A has the enchantment &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Erosion&quot;&gt;Memory Erosion&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&#xA;Player B casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Banishing&quot;&gt;Dark Banishing&lt;/a&gt; on Player A's creature, and Player A uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; on it, so the Dark Banishing is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will Memory Erosion still take effect, even though the spell has been countered? Or does the spell need to resolve first for Memory Erosion's abilty to take effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T16:09:44.817" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:46:09.543" Title="Does Memory Erosion trigger even if a spell gets countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14117" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:27:08.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Memory Erosion triggers when an opponent &lt;em&gt;casts&lt;/em&gt; a spell, not when they resolve the spell. Memory Erosion's triggered ability will already be on the stack before Player A even has the chance to cast their counterspell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack will look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;~TOP~&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counterspell (targeting Dark Banishing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Memory Erosion triggered ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark Banishing (targeting a creature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;~BOTTOM~&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Counterspell resolves, Dark Banishing will be removed from the stack and placed in its owner's graveyard, as will Counterspell itself, leaving Memory Erosion's triggered ability alone on the stack. Memory Erosion's ability will then resolve once both players pass priority again, and Player B will place the top 2 cards from his library into his graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Because objects on the stack don't resolve until both players pass priority, Player A could potentially opt to wait for Memory Erosion's trigger to resolve before casting Counterspell. Player A would get to see what two cards are put into the graveyard and based on that extra information, may decide whether countering Dark Banishing is still worthwhile. (For example, Player B might &quot;mill&quot; a card with Flashback that Player A wants to counter even more than Dark Banishing, so he would hold on to his Counterspell.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: Yes, Memory Erosion will still work, even though the triggering spell was countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T15:34:04.110" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T15:34:04.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T15:53:17.850" Score="4" ViewCount="2385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm starting on mono blue mill deck and I saw &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grindclock&quot;&gt;Grindclock&lt;/a&gt;. I'm not sure about its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{tap}: put a charge counter on Grindclock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{tap}: target player puts the top X cards of his or her library into his or her graveyard, where X is the number of charge counters on Grindclock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I just cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grindclock&quot;&gt;Grindclock&lt;/a&gt; and use its first ability, will the second ability take effect, or do I just put a charge counter on it? If there's already one charge counter on it and I use the first ability again, it will have two charge counters on it? Then the second ability will take effect with two cards being sent to graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use spells or ability to untap it after being used can I use its ability again on the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:59:40.013" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:59:40.013" Title="Can I use both of Grindclock's abilities at the same time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-01T17:31:03.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14119" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:05:58.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a card has 2 separate sets of &quot;cost: effect&quot;, these are 2 separate abilities. You can choose to activate either the first ability or the second ability. Because the cost of both abilities is &quot;tap&quot;, you will not normally be able to activate both in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do untap the card using another spell or ability, then yes, you can use Grindclock's same ability again in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T16:05:58.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14119" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:30:33.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time it untaps, you may gain counters or mill, but not both. You may use its abilities even you've already used them this turn, as long as you can pay the cost (to tap the permanent while untapped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;[cost]: [effect]&amp;quot; denotes an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to think that tapping activates the ability, but it doesn't. Activating the ability requires that you tap the permanent as a cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means the first thing you do is chose to activate the ability, then you tap the permanent to satisfy the cost of doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot then choose to activate the second ability since you would be unable to pay its cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it becomes untapped by any means, you are free to use the either of its abilities again, even if you've already used that ability. Only a Planeswalker's loyalty ability can't be used more than once per turn (and those which explicitly forbid it on the card). Any other ability can be used as many times as you can pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;{Whenever|When|At} [condition], [effect]&amp;quot; denotes a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these abilities were phrased &amp;quot;Whenever Grindclock becomes tapped, ...&amp;quot;, then you would get both effects whenever Grindlock became tapped, no matter the reason it became tapped. You would need some external means of tapping it, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, attacking with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fallowsage&quot;&gt;Fallowsage&lt;/a&gt; would give you to the option of drawing a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, tapping a land for mana while its enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contaminated%20Ground&quot;&gt;Contaminated Ground&lt;/a&gt; would cause its controller to lose two life (in addition to gaining mana). If that land was enchanted by two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contaminated%20Ground&quot;&gt;Contaminated Ground&lt;/a&gt;, its controller would lose a total of four life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T16:43:51.460" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T16:43:51.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14117" CreationDate="2014-01-07T16:56:29.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Casting a spell&amp;quot; refers to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;placing a spell on the stack,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;making choices (e.g. targets),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;determining costs,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;activating mana abilities and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paying costs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spell is cast as soon as these steps are completed. Casting a spell does not include resolving the spell or anything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countering a spell after it has been cast&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; does not undo the fact that it had been cast, so it does not affect &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Erosion&quot;&gt;Memory Erosion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Memory Erosion will resolve. (As such, Player A might as well wait for Memory Erosion to resolve before deciding whether to counter Dark Banishing or not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spell can't be countered before it's cast (as it doesn't exist yet) or while it's being cast (since there's no possibility of resolving a spell or ability that would do this at that time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T18:46:09.543" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:46:09.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-07T17:33:04.953" Score="2" ViewCount="40662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrecking%20Ogre&quot;&gt;Wrecking Ogre&lt;/a&gt; (4/4 double strike) and decides to use the Bloodrush ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghor-Clan%20Rampager&quot;&gt;Ghor-Clan Rampager&lt;/a&gt;, so now the Wrecking Ogre is a 7/7 with Double Strike + Trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Player B decides to block it with 3 2/2 creatures, on the first combat, Wrecking Ogre's power will be down to 1/1,and that 1/1 will go to the player because it has trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My concern is about the second strike of wrecking ogre. Since there are no more blockers, will it deal 7/7 damage or 1/1 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if wrecking ogre is blocked by 2 5/5 creatures? Will it be dead before it can attack again? Will the Trample and Double Strike will be useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T17:49:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:43:20.097" Title="How does Double Strike work with Trample?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-01-13T04:48:14.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14123" CreationDate="2014-01-07T17:42:30.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature in combat has first strike or double strike, there are two combat damage phases. In the first phase, only creatures with first strike and double strike deal damage, and in the second, only creatures without first strike deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a creature in combat has trample, all damage past what is necessary to deal lethal damage to all blockers is dealt directly to the defending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means specifically for your question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first example, a 7/7 ogre with double strike and trample is blocked by 3 2/2 creatures. In the first combat damage phase, the ogre distributes 2 damage to each blocker and 1 damage to the defending player. Then, in the second combat damage phase, there are no surviving blockers, so the ogre deals all 7 damage to the defending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second example, the same ogre is blocked by 2 5/5 creatures. In the first combat damage phase, the ogre distributes 5 damage to one of its blockers and 2 to the other, destroying the first one. Then in the second combat damage phase, the ogre distributes 3 damage to the remaining blocker and 4 damage to the defending player, killing the other blocker. The blocker also deals 5 damage to the ogre, which is not enough to destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T17:42:30.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14123" CreationDate="2014-01-07T17:43:12.220" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's &lt;em&gt;power&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;toughness&lt;/em&gt; never change. It's never 1/1 or 1/7 or 7/1. It's 7/7 throughout. It merely gains &lt;em&gt;marked damage&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first Combat Damage Step, the Ogre assigns 7 damage. It will assign and deal 2 damage two each of the 2/2&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; (and kills them) and 1 to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second Combat Damage Step, the Ogre assigns 7 damage. It will assign and deal 7 damage the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the damage it did the second step was reduced by the damage it did in the first step, it would never deal any in the second as a creature always deals its power in damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and if wrecking ogre is blocked by 2 5/5 creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only creatures with First Strike or Double Strike participate in the First Strike combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming these 5/5 have neither,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First strike combat damage step: Ogre deals 5 to one 5/5 (and kills it) and 2 to the other (which survives with 2 damage).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Normal strike combat damage step: Ogre deals 3 to the remaining 5/5 (and kills it) and 4 to the defender. The 5/5 deals 5 to the Ogre (which survives with 5 damage).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's possible to assign more, but there's rarely a reason to assign more than the minimum.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-07T18:43:20.097" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T18:43:20.097" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14103" CreationDate="2014-01-07T19:20:20.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a beginner, I would say no expansion is necessary at all.  Vanilla Power Grid is an incredibly deep game.  I have found that it can be a bit overwhelming and introducing additional complexity will only make it harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, some of my favorite games (Agricola and Dominion being two examples) I grew bored with the base game quickly and vastly prefer playing with the expansions.  Power Grid is not one of those games.  I have played it for years, and often still play just the base game even though I do own one of the expansions (Robots).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I take a very analytic approach to board games.  More casual players might not find it as overwhelming as I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastActivityDate="2014-01-07T19:20:20.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13997" CreationDate="2014-01-07T22:56:55.360" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received the following e-mailed answer from Jonathan Bove of FFG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since all of the players fulfilled the victory condition at the same&#xA;  time, it is a joint victory. However, this shouldn't stop the player&#xA;  with 6 colonies from bragging about his or her intergalactic skills!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is direct from FFG, I will take this to be the official answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T21:20:12.557" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T21:20:12.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3169" CreationDate="2014-01-08T03:46:54.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a very practical application: to keep your mind and will intact when you are suffering great hardship and deprivation. From the BBC article &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-25560162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Natan Sharansky - How chess kept one man sane&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A human rights activist campaigning for the rights of Jews to emigrate&#xA;  to Israel, Sharansky was sentenced in 1977 on a fabricated charge of&#xA;  spying for the Americans. He spent nine years in a Siberian prison.&#xA;  Half of that was spent in solitary confinement and for more than 400&#xA;  days he was locked in a punishment cell, given barely any food and&#xA;  clothes so thin that in the winter it amounted to a form of torture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;But in prison it became clear why I needed this,&quot; he recalls. In his dark, empty, freezing punishment cell, with no-one to talk to, where he was forbidden to read or write, he played games in his head, obviously having to move for both sides, white and black: &quot;Thousands of games - I won them all.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T03:46:54.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14130" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T08:39:25.027" Score="1" ViewCount="2425" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least two main types of tournament scoring: matchpoints (MPs) and IMPs. It is often said that these two are &quot;different&quot; games, claiming that the strategy you use is completely different. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case, a difference of as little as game ten points can get you from an average to a top or bottom match score.  A double in a contract that always goes one down can turn your average match score into top score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second case, more game points are better than fewer, but the scale is more graduated. In some cases, only missing a game, not to mention a slam, will really hurt. Especially if you are vulnerable (such distinction in vulnerability when trying to reach slams is not that important in MPs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are different strategies according to the type of scoring, my main question is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are world class players likely to be ranked similarly given the different rankings for IMP matches and MP matches based on their &quot;experience&quot; with actual rankings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T23:49:29.530" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T10:02:03.127" Title="Bridge: Matchpoints vs IMPs: Different game?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14092" CreationDate="2014-01-08T12:53:33.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you see that your &lt;strong&gt;neighbour could only afford to build &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of your cards&lt;/strong&gt;, and you can’t or don’t want to play this card yourself, it can make sense to bury it, although you’d like to play another card. However, only consider this if your neighbour is a strong player resp. (currently) better than you. Keep in mind that your next but one neighbour gets this hand after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your &lt;strong&gt;next but one neighbour&lt;/strong&gt; could need one of your cards badly (e.g., the last &lt;em&gt;Science&lt;/em&gt; symbol that would complete a set), consider &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to bury it. Hand it over to your neighbour and let him/her do the (often disadvantageous) action of burying a card. However, this might only work if your neighbour is an attentive player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many tactics depend on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/10970/3532&quot;&gt;number of players&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 3p (and 7p, but this doesn’t work so well with many players) game has the fewest &lt;strong&gt;brown resources&lt;/strong&gt; per player. By burying specific resource cards, it’s often possible to make it impossible for one of your enemies to complete his/her Wonder, especially for those Wonders that need 3/4 resources of the same kind. Keep the &lt;em&gt;Caravansery&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Alexandria&lt;/em&gt; in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 4p game has the fewest &lt;strong&gt;gray resources&lt;/strong&gt; per player. Depending on the Wonders in play, it can make sense to bury both gray cards of the same type (resp. build one and bury one). Keep the &lt;em&gt;Forum&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Alexandria&lt;/em&gt; in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3p (and 4p, but works better with 3p) games have one &lt;strong&gt;military&lt;/strong&gt; card per player per Age. If you build military yourself, burying a military card ensures that you win against (at least) one neighbour. However, this is probably only worth it if you need the specific Wonder stage and/or you can’t build the military card yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T12:53:33.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14130" CreationDate="2014-01-08T14:39:15.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barry_Crane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barry Crane&lt;/a&gt; was throughout his lifetime regarded as the quintessential matchpoint player - yet due to his busy work schedule competed almost solely in weekend regional events dominated by a Saturday Open Pairs and a Sunday Swiss Team. His great success over several decades in both events speaks to the relatively minor differences in strategy between the two types of scoring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One must know which game one is playing&lt;/strong&gt; but only in extended team play, with matches longer than 16 boards, are 4-card majors or even fast-in-and-fast-out bidding systems like Crane's starting to have a noticeable disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T10:02:03.127" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T10:02:03.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-08T17:22:32.487" Score="7" ViewCount="5574" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played my friend and he used his new mono white deck. After some turns, he plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Unlife&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt;. This is the first time I've seen it. It says even if his life is 0 he never loses. I'm using black deck at that time and I don't have any sorcery or instants to kill that enchantment. So I just conceded the game. Now I'm still skeptical about that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is how can you kill your opponent if he has that on the battlefield? I know that there's some other ways to defeat your opponents, but my black deck was built to be aggro/discard deck. So how can a player defeat an opponent without anything to destroy an enchantment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6555" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-08T17:27:10.367" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T19:55:36.407" Title="How can I win against Phyrexian Unlife?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14133" CreationDate="2014-01-08T17:27:40.537" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second half of that card is important.  It says that when you are under 0 life you treat all damage as though its source had infect.  That means you get a poison counter for each damage, and if you reach 10 poison counters, you lose.  So basically it gives you an additional 10 life to deal with (assuming no other infect sources), but it doesn't keep you alive indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T17:27:40.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14133" CreationDate="2014-01-08T17:28:04.713" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The full card text is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't lose the game for having 0 or less life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have 0 or less life, all damage is dealt to you as though its source had infect. &lt;em&gt;(Damage is dealt to you in the form of poison counters.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have ten poison counters, you lose the game. You just need to get your opponent to zero, then deal ten more damage to him. He'll take it in the form of poison counters, and lose. It will buy him time - maybe he was almost dead and suddenly you need to get him to 0 &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; deal ten more damage - but he's not invincible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T19:04:21.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2014-01-08T18:26:03.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding some previous comments about hiding your money.  Your cash is the ONLY thing that is private.  The rules allow this, and it is a critical aspect of the game.  Not knowing if someone can win or not on the next turn makes it exciting, sees if you were paying attention, makes you guess, second guess, triple guess.  If I was the one who could win this turn I would never in a million years want that advertised. Long story short - do keep your money private, any rule otherwise I believe is just silly and frankly a little juvenile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6572" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T18:26:03.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14069" CreationDate="2014-01-08T21:22:14.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is obvious, but remember not to stare at your location on the board.  The other players will notice it more easily than you think, and they will have an easier time locating you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often find myself weighing two options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A strategy which will cause maximum damage to the players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A strategy which will be the biggest nuisance for the players to clean up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to lean towards being a nuisance.  Even though your moves might be a little less splashy, they can force the other players to make inefficient plays.  Sometimes the juicy looking play doesn't turn out very well, because its in an area of the map that the other players were already planning to focus on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastActivityDate="2014-01-08T21:22:14.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14140" CreationDate="2014-01-09T02:41:24.457" Score="2" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got done a really interesting game of power grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end all players had all the power plants that they needed except each of us needed one more 6 value power plant to be able to power 17 houses and win the game. At this time we were in step 2 and had already removed the other high plant form the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point the actual market was: 2 3 4 6&#xA;and the future market was: 2 4 4 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bought the 6 one and no one out bid me. They thought more 6-7 value plants would come up but none did until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation though, am I doing this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I thought the other players could do is buy up the small power plants in order to get newer plants up to the current market faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this situation possible to get into? Am I playing it wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the players had these plants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 6 5 = 17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 6 5 = 14&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 4 7 = 15&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6576" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T02:09:40.450" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T02:09:40.450" Title="No power plants available to buy" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14139" CreationDate="2014-01-09T14:12:29.953" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You did do something wrong: the market should &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; be in order by cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When players add new power plants to the power plant &#xA;   market, players rearrange all power plants in the power plant market in ascending order with the 4 cheapest plants in the actual market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the whole market - all 8 power plants - that you sort. (The lists you provided were possibly sorted within the actual and future market individually, but that doesn't do anything. The point is to make sure that only the cheaper ones become available for purchase.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While things can get out of order a bit - for example power plant 20 is a 5 and power plant 22 is a 2 - there's no way a 6 is going to come before a 2, and in most cases, it'll be after the 4s too. With the power plants sorted properly, you wouldn't have been able to buy that 6. Your actual market would've more likely just contained 2, 3, 4, 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that you missed that rule, it's possible you also missed another: during steps 1 and 2, in phase 5, you remove the highest numbered power plant from the market, replacing it with a new one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Update the power plant market: Place the highest numbered power plant from the future market face down under the draw stack and draw a new one to replace it.&#xA;  Rearrange the market appropriately (see phase 2: this will change in Step 3, see the steps of the game). Because of this, the highest numbered power plants are collected under the »Step 3« card and become available during step 3 in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it much, much less likely that a 6 even becomes available in the early game. On top of that, it gets you to step 3 faster, when suddenly high-numbered power plants start becoming available more rapidly, making it less likely that one player gets one long before others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T14:12:29.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14069" CreationDate="2014-01-09T15:29:06.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I think of it is similar to dbyrne's (maximum damage/biggest nuisance). What you want to do is force the other players to spend as many actions as possible to deal with each one of your actions, where &quot;force&quot; means doing something that, if not dealt with, will put the other players in danger of either having too many outbreaks or running out of cubes (or make them feel like they're in danger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you might want to locally infect places that either take a lot of travel time for the players to reach, or which are likely to coincide with other infections and cause extra damage. You might also try to do nasty things at key times; it's a lot tougher if a player has a hand full of cards and are about to cure, and are suddenly the only one close enough to deal with a big mess. Remember, the game itself is trying to make you win too, so you just have to help push it over the edge. Even without the bio-terrorist, the players are often not that many actions away from losing. You just have to make them spend those actions elsewhere (or cause them to lose a little sooner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Starting near one of your cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often good. But if the opening board state is such that you think you want to be elsewhere, go for it. Maybe you can manage to cause an extra outbreak near the beginning of the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Drawing and discarding cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll certainly want to draw sometimes, and some discarding is probably fine. But it depends strongly on the situation. If you're having trouble getting to places to cause trouble, you probably want to draw. If not, you probably want to wait to draw until it's been a while since an epidemic and you can draw without removing cities that you'd love for the game to infect for you. Discarding cards can dilute the pile a bit, but if it allows you to do some real damage, it's well worth it. And if you discard a card that you actually want the game to infect for you, that's great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Being captured&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eh. It's certainly bad if you've got a hand full of cards and grand plans for them, or if you let yourself get captured without much work from the players. But if you can taunt them into spending a couple turns chasing you instead of cleaning up the board, it's probably worth it even if you get captured in the end. In general, especially since you often don't have a ton of cards anyway, getting captured isn't that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Interactions with roles&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Operations Expert is probably the most obvious one. The other main one is probably the Medic; if you're trying to cause outbreaks, you should obviously avoid spending too much time on one the Medic can just clean up in one action. The  Containment Specialist can do the same thing, to a lesser degree. In some cases, the Dispatcher could also muck up your plans by providing some more efficient travel, but it should be pretty easy to plan around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T15:47:18.480" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T15:47:18.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14143" CreationDate="2014-01-09T16:56:05.957" Score="14" ViewCount="3818" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I bought the Carcassonne board game and it comes with the mini-expansion The River.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read the rules but they don't clarify whether the removed/replaced first tile is removed from the game or mixed with the other tiles for future use after the 12 river tiles are played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do you do with the original game's start tile when playing The River?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T17:19:18.170" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:48:37.967" Title="Do I use the original start tile when playing The River?" Tags="|carcassonne|carcassonne-river|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14142" CreationDate="2014-01-09T17:05:19.193" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing with the River (or the River II) don't play with the start tile from the basic game - it has a different coloured back and so will stand out during the tile draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T17:05:19.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:39:54.943" Score="4" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trait%20Doctoring&quot;&gt;Trait Doctoring&lt;/a&gt; be used to change a Circle of Protection (whatever color) into protection from mono or multicolor? &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trait%20Doctoring&quot;&gt;Trait Doctoring&lt;/a&gt; reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the text of target permanent by replacing all instances of one color word with another or one basic land type with another until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cipher &lt;em&gt;(Then you may exile this spell card encoded on a creature you control. Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of the encoded card without paying its mana cost.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do monocolor and multicolor count as &amp;quot;color words&amp;quot;? I sort of assumed so but I'm not really sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6582" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T21:57:12.647" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T21:57:12.647" Title="Can I use Trait Doctoring to to make a Circle of Protection monocolor or multicolor?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14144" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:42:46.177" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369034&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the card&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type-changing effect can change part of a word such as “nonblack” or “swampwalk” if the part of the word is being used to refer to &lt;strong&gt;a color&lt;/strong&gt; or basic land type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Referring to color in general does not refer to &lt;em&gt;a color&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;105.1. There are five colors in the &lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; game: white, blue, black, red, and green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;105.4. If a player is asked to choose a color, he or she must choose one of the five colors. &amp;quot;Multicolored&amp;quot; is not a color. Neither is &amp;quot;colorless.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T18:42:46.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14142" CreationDate="2014-01-09T18:53:05.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I accept the answer, but doing a little bit research, I found in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot;&gt;Complete Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt; the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The original starting tile can either be mixed into the stack of river tiles, or placed as soon as the river has been completed, and is treated like a normal tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And an additional house rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mix the original starting tile (without a river) in with the river tiles. If it is drawn then it acts like a 'bonus' tile that can be placed anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T19:48:37.967" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:48:37.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14149" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:26:33.980" Score="12" ViewCount="2872" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, do the rules permit you to use the Remodel card to trash a card without gaining a new one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, could I just Remodel a Curse without taking an Estate (or other card costing up to 2)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6583" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T20:31:17.037" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T19:58:51.223" Title="When playing Remodel in Dominion, must you gain a new card?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14147" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:35:17.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you must gain a card if you are able to do so; otherwise the card would say that you &quot;may&quot; gain a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you can't use Remodel to speed up your deck if you clogged it up with a ton of copper or estates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6577" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:35:17.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14147" CreationDate="2014-01-09T19:45:35.293" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule that applies to all of Dominion, you always must follow every instruction on the card you play as long as it is possible to do so. Whenever there is the option to not do something, the card will use the word &quot;may&quot;. This means that if you play Moneylender, you are forced to trash a Copper (if you have one), and if you play Smithy, you are forced to draw 3 cards (as long as there are still 3 cards between your deck and discard piles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the same goes for Remodel; as long as there is a card costing up to $2 more than the trashed card available, you must gain one (which will always be true unless all Coppers, and Curses, and Estates have already run out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T19:45:35.293" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14575" CreationDate="2014-01-09T20:45:22.323" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Archipelago&lt;/strong&gt; is there any limit to the amount of resources a single player can spend to deal with an internal or external crisis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T21:13:27.877" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T21:13:27.877" Title="Limit to the amount of resources a player can spend when handling a crisis" Tags="|archipelago|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14580" CreationDate="2014-01-09T21:05:18.503" Score="2" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;solo expansion of Archipelago&lt;/strong&gt;, there are some scenarios (for instance, the Barbe Bleu) where you start with some meeples and a ship in the sea. Since the rules say you skip Turn #0, the only moment when you're allowed to disembark the meeples when you find land, how are you supposed to move those meeples to the land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T03:33:54.967" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T02:23:26.527" Title="Disembarking meeples in scenarios that begin in the sea" Tags="|archipelago|archipelago-solo-exp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18655" CreationDate="2014-01-09T21:24:04.597" Score="3" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Archipelago, say you have already played all your action discs, but for an arbitrary reason you did not use your ports or markets. Does this means you cannot use them anymore in this action phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T01:09:09.067" LastActivityDate="2021-01-11T05:59:45.737" Title="Can you use ports or markets after playing all action disks?" Tags="|archipelago|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14153" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-09T21:27:33.600" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T21:27:33.600" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T21:27:33.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14154" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-09T21:27:33.600" Score="0" Body="Archipelago is strategy game for 2-5 (1-5 with expansion) players. Players compete as Renaissance European powers vying for resources in the Caribbean, negotiating between each other, and attempting to complete their secret objective." OwnerUserId="6122" LastEditorUserId="6122" LastEditDate="2014-01-09T21:40:39.187" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T21:40:39.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-09T22:15:36.337" Score="1" ViewCount="16962" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and I really enjoy playing board games IF we can find the right game.  Seems to be that there is a love it or hate it reaction from my wife (I'm pretty game for anything).  My wife likes the &quot;classic&quot; board games like Monopoly, Scrabble, and such.  I myself typically enjoy a strategic game with a few elements of chance of which my wife (says she) generally dislikes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I was recently surprised to find out that she absolutely loves Dominion, and is in fact one of her favorite board games to play.  Excited by this, since I too love Dominion, I attempted to play Carcassonne with her as I thought it would be of similar taste but found that she doesn't care for it at all.  Intrigued, I tried Pandemic with her thinking she might like a co-op game better and she had mixed feelings about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife is certainly not afraid of competition, and I think games we play that put us on a level playing field are the ones she enjoys most.  My question naturally is does anyone have any recommendations of a game/games that they believe would be enjoyable by both of us, given this history?  I am pretty open to anything, although do slightly favor a more &quot;strategic&quot; game.  Thank in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6585" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T00:19:34.717" Title="Recommendations for a wife who likes dominion" Tags="|dominion|recommendations|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-01-10T03:54:00.303" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14155" CreationDate="2014-01-09T22:39:42.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If she likes Monopoly, she might like Power Grid, which is Monopoly without most of its terrible attributes (PG is weighted such that the folks in the lead have the fewest advantages as a means to keep everyone in the game, for example), and might be a good way to ease her into Eurogames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More in the card game realm, the folks in our group who like Dominion also generally like Android: Netrunner, so that might be another option to look into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6577" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T22:39:42.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14170" CreationDate="2014-01-09T23:04:20.510" Score="19" ViewCount="4077" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;Pathfinder Adventure Card Game&lt;/em&gt;, there are a lot of small deck of cards to shuffle: 1 to 6 15-cards character decks and 3 to 8 10-card location decks, depending on the number of players. Due to the way these decks are prepared or reset, cards usually end up in clumps of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With such a small deck, it's hard to riffle shuffle the cards and overhand shuffles don't separate the clumps too well. What's a good way to shuffle my cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1546" LastEditorUserId="1546" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T23:17:24.627" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T00:40:36.040" Title="What's a good way to shuffle small decks of cards?" Tags="|shuffling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14155" CreationDate="2014-01-09T23:33:33.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two-player &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/catan-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card-based version of Settlers of Catan&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the original multiplayer Settlers of Catan, there is scope for both mutually beneficial card trading, as well as rather more aggressive competitive play. I expect that you and your wife will be able to strike a mutually acceptable tone for your games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40425/maori&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maori&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game works quite nicely with two players. There is less scope for attacking play, but there is a good deal of strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1467" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T23:33:33.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14164" CreationDate="2014-01-09T23:48:56.393" Score="19" ViewCount="16236" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I are relatively new to MtG. At some point, one of them introduced us to the idea of mana weaving, and we'd do this to declump our decks prior to a &lt;strong&gt;very thorough shuffling.&lt;/strong&gt; However, at the Theros pre-release, one of us was asked not to do this, and we learned it was frowned upon and ceased to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just now came across &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20060707a&quot;&gt;Shuffling Do's &amp;amp; Don'ts&lt;/a&gt;, and it sounds like mana weaving's only bad if you use it to &lt;em&gt;leave&lt;/em&gt; your deck in an even distribution, and it's OK if your deck is then thoroughly shuffled. In hindsight, the judge may have simply thought my friend wouldn't have shuffled afterwards, but at the time I came under the impression it was frowned upon even if you &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; shuffle afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: is mana weaving my deck OK, if I shuffle it very thoroughly afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="11932" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T22:11:46.840" LastActivityDate="2022-02-14T15:37:39.077" Title="Is Mana Weaving ok if it's followed by a thorough shuffle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|shuffling|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14161" CreationDate="2014-01-09T23:58:48.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we assume that when you say that you shuffle thoroughly, you mean that you completely randomize the order of your deck, then it should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put your deck in any particular order, and then completely randomize it, then the original order doesn't matter and your deck is properly shuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put your deck in a certain order and then &quot;shuffle&quot; in a special way so that your deck ends up in the order you want, then you have stacked your deck, which is not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-01-09T23:58:48.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14155" CreationDate="2014-01-10T00:09:26.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some recommendations follow. First though, here's how I would think about this. What your wife will enjoy playing will depend on a variety of factors (theme, mechanics, play time, competitive intensity, etcetera). As you try different things, hopefully you'll get a feel for some of those factors. For example, my wife prefers historical, fantasy or modern settings of sci-fi, having kids skews us toward shorter play time, and she likes competition, but disengages when she's frequently way ahead or way behind. I like most strategy games (and hate most party games), but I've found I dislike &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt; because it is too easy for someone to fall far behind early, and it plays incredibly slowly as you add more players. You'll probably also notice that I link to boardgamegeek pretty frequently. It's a great resource for getting more info about a particular game before you buy it. Some games you can also try online to get a basic feel, for example on &lt;a href=&quot;http://brettspielwelt.de/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;brettspielwelt&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://octgn.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;octgn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would recommend is to try some Dominion expansions. The base game is actually fairly boring compared to Intrigue. There are some good questions in here about in which order to try the expansions, like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1997/i-have-the-dominion-base-set-only-in-what-order-should-i-buy-the-expansions&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;. For a really close relative of Dominion, try &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/69789/ascension-chronicle-of-the-godslayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ascension&lt;/a&gt;. It is so similar I almost didn't mention it, but it has a few interesting differences, simpler here, more complicated there, and a very different theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I second the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/124742/android-netrunner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Android: Netrunner&lt;/a&gt; recommendation. There are some terminology hurdles, and I think my first 5 games with my bro-in-law we hadn't figured out the rules yet, but it bears a lot of similarity to Dominion in that it depends heavily on card text, and you can have a lot of diversity within the game framework because there are so many combinations to play with. I feel like in Dominion you play to build an awesome deck and then suddenly the game is over...in A:NR you build an awesome deck before the game starts, and then play with it. That setup bit is a bit heavy, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/68448/7-wonders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/a&gt; is a good option to try. It doesn't have quite the diversity of Dominion, and it plays much better with 3-7 people than with 2, but it's fast and fun. Not a lot of downtime per player. Also note: this is a tableau-building game, not a deck-building game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/28143/race-for-the-galaxy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/a&gt; is another good one to try, and it plays very well with 2 people. This is another tableau-building game, but with a bit more variety (I think) going on than 7 Wonders, and it has a role-selection mechanic that adds a very cool layer of strategy. And it plays well (better than Dominion) with up to 6 people. If RFTG looks too sci-fi or too complicated, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8217/san-juan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;San Juan&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/118063/infiltration&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infiltration&lt;/a&gt;. It's by the same designer as Dominion, and similarly has a basic ruleset with components you randomly swap out between games. It has a little bit of Uncle Wiggily in it, but also some strategic elements. And 3 out of the 4 times I've played it the player who won did so with a last-minute hat trick strategy, which is quite exciting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cooperative games can be fun, but I think of them as risky business. Check &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1864/arkham-horror-dominant-personality-issue&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; out. My wife and I have had good luck with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/100423/elder-sign&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/a&gt;, which gives individual players a good degree of autonomy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ticket to Ride series (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14996/ticket-to-ride-europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;e.g.&lt;/a&gt;)is another good idea to check out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T00:19:34.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14161" CreationDate="2014-01-10T00:12:43.413" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at it this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you properly randomize your deck, then its initial configuration is irrelevant. So &quot;mana weaving&quot; is just wasting more productive time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; properly randomize your deck, then &quot;mana weaving&quot; is likely part of you cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there's no upside. &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Mana weaving&quot; doesn't actually &lt;em&gt;accomplish&lt;/em&gt; anything, unless you're accidentally or purposefully cheating.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judges routinely prohibit &quot;mana weaving&quot; because the down side of disrupting someone's pointless pre-game ritual is much smaller than the upside of guaranteeing a fairer game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players &quot;mana weave&quot; to &quot;break up clumps.&quot; That's based on a mistaken assumption. A truly randomized deck isn't one where the lands and spells are perfectly distributed; it's one where all the cards are in an arbitrary and unpredictable order. That'll mean you sometimes get lucky and sometimes you won't. Bad draws can be frustrating, but some amount of clumping &amp;mdash; even the rare incident of really egregious clumping &amp;mdash; is perfectly normal. A player who never gets mana-flooded or mana-screwed isn't shuffling properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're constantly experiencing clumps, especially drawing cards in an order similar to how you played them last game, then it's a sign you're direly under-shuffling. Spend more time shuffling (2-3 minutes before a game is pretty standard) and practice stronger techniques like riffle or mash shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T00:29:09.370" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T00:29:09.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2014-01-10T01:05:03.783" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an ancient post but I stumbled upon it in a Google search and figured I could add a bit more historical context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned (and linked), Skullclamp was proven pernicious in the Standard and Extended formats of its day. There was actually a period where it seemed it was getting banned from a new format every B&amp;amp;R announcement (first Standard, then Extended, then Magic Online-only formats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, nobody knows for certain what impact it would have on Legacy or Modern because it was &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; legal in either format. Both of those formats are relatively new, and unusual in that they're popular tournament formats that are younger than (most of) their card pools. Because both formats started with a large card base, both formats also started with banlists that are somewhat speculative. It's tricky business because if they started with nothing banned, both formats would have been ruled by known broken decks for quite some time (what Zvi Mowshowitz &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/modern/22725-The-Present-And-Future-Of-Modern.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;termed&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;Oh Lord, Not Again&amp;quot;), so Wizards extrapolated from past tournaments in other, similar formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that both formats have a number of cards that were &amp;quot;preemptively&amp;quot; banned in this fashion. Sometimes those cards get unbanned; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20over%20Matter&quot;&gt;Mind over Matter&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Replenish&quot;&gt;Replenish&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Tax&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt; are apparently not as bad as they were in their original contexts. I doubt the same thing can be said for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20The%20Mind%20Sculptor&quot;&gt;Jace, The Mind Sculptor&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stoneforge%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Stoneforge Mystic&lt;/a&gt; in Modern, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%27s%20Desire&quot;&gt;Mind&amp;#39;s Desire&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yawgmoth%27s%20Bargain&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth&amp;#39;s Bargain&lt;/a&gt; in Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Skullclamp was never &lt;em&gt;proven&lt;/em&gt; broken in current formats as such, it ruined Standard, eventually proved broken in Extended and was almost Vintage playable. It's also arguably a more resilient &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20of%20Nature&quot;&gt;Glimpse of Nature&lt;/a&gt; (and certainly has a similar effect in the same decks), and that card is also illegal in Modern. It's almost certainly staying banned forever in Modern, and deservedly so, since that format is intentionally kept at a power level at or below the old Extended formats where we already established Skullclamp was too good. Legacy is fast enough that I can see an argument for unbanning it coming up at some point in the far future, but there's a danger of it becoming an automatic 4-of in every aggro deck and becoming an autowin against control. There's also the risk that it fits too well in a creature-based combo deck like Elves!, or that it combos too well with some other cards printed in the many years since it was ever legal in a non-Vintage format (Stoneforge Mystic? &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Puresteel%20Paladin&quot;&gt;Puresteel Paladin&lt;/a&gt;? Scars block in general?) So I don't like its chances there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[^1] Technically there was one Magic Online &amp;quot;Modern&amp;quot; tournament, which I believe was open only to employees, where Jace was legal. But then the standard bannings happened and by the time the Modern banlist was finalized for the general population Jace was on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After some more googling I dug up the development articles from when the banlists were new: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aaron Forsythe&lt;/a&gt; on Legacy and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/144&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tom LaPille&lt;/a&gt; on Modern. It's telling that neither felt the need to go into much detail justifying the banning. Its effect on Standard and Extended really was that bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2021-04-05T15:25:09.017" LastActivityDate="2021-04-05T15:25:09.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14166" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-10T01:17:56.003" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T01:17:56.003" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T01:17:56.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14167" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-10T01:17:56.003" Score="0" Body="The solo expansion to Archipelago allows the original 2-5 players game to be played by a single player. It is a simple set of scenario cards, where each card sets the match starting condition, end condition and scoring criteria." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-10T02:09:32.370" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T02:09:32.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14092" CreationDate="2014-01-10T02:17:22.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Unless you need a wonder effect at a specific point in time, you're almost always looking to bury cards that are way better for your opponents than they are for you. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might bury a Loom if you're Halikarnassos and your neighbors are buying cloth from you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might bury a military card near the end of an age to keep someone from suddenly having enough shields to beat you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might bury science cards if you're not really building science but someone's threatening to win with it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thanks to the &quot;no duplicates&quot; rule you might bury a great card that you already have one of&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you do need the wonder effects, you have to balance these considerations against how badly you need your wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T02:17:22.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14161" CreationDate="2014-01-10T06:53:37.210" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The elephant in the room here is probably that &lt;strong&gt;it's kind of hard to &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; thoroughly shuffle a deck.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dartmouth.edu/~chance/teaching_aids/Mann.pdf&quot;&gt;Around 12 riffle shuffles will do it&lt;/a&gt; for a 60-card deck, with a few more needed for bigger decks.  (The complicated expression given in the linked paper is pretty well approximated by 2&amp;middot;log&lt;sub&gt;2&lt;/sub&gt;(&lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;), so doubling the deck size requires two more riffles to achieve thorough randomization.)  With three minutes to shuffle the deck between games, that means up to 15 seconds per riffle, which is quite doable with a bit of practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course, riffle shuffles are kind of hard on cards, so maybe you don't want to subject your deck to a dozen of them before every game.  That means resorting to slower and/or less efficient shuffles like the mash (which is actually pretty close to a riffle), the wash (slow and messy, but OK if done well) or even the pile (slow and potentially cheaty) or overhand (just plain lousy) shuffles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the upshot of all this is that, unless you shuffle your deck &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; thoroughly (say, a dozen riffle / mash shuffles) before each game, &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; traces of the original non-random order are going to remain.  The question, then, is whether that non-randomness ends up helping you or harming you &amp;mdash; and if you start with a mana-woven deck, it'll probably do more to help than to harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, as long as everyone starts with a similarly ordered deck and shuffles it equally well, it doesn't really matter if the shuffle is a tiny bit short of perfect, since any advantages or disadvantages due to the imperfect shuffling will be the same for everyone.  But if &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; start with a mana-woven deck and your opponent starts with a non-woven one, it &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; give you an unfair advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T06:53:37.210" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14157" CreationDate="2014-01-10T09:34:06.980" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Pile_shuffle&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pile shuffle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; recommended by Jonathan Hobbs works OK, although I'd strongly recommend randomly varying the order in which you deal out the cards to make it more random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue with it is that the randomness comes almost entirely from the shuffler's choices, rather than from uncontrollable physical randomness as in a riffle or mash shuffle (not that those can't be done &quot;perfectly&quot; too, but it takes a lot more skill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A variant that you can do in your hand is the &lt;a href=&quot;//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Mongean_shuffle&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mongean shuffle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, where you hold the source deck in one hand and pick cards from it alternately to the top and bottom of the target deck held in the other hand.  With a bit of practice, you can do this really quickly and efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the pile shuffle, the Mongean shuffle doesn't actually introduce any randomness if you do it perfectly in consistent order.  However, you can break up the order by sometimes dealing more than one card in a row to the same end of the deck; if you do this perfectly randomly (i.e. switching ends with 50% probability after each card), the Mongean shuffle actually becomes about as good as the &lt;a href=&quot;//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilbert%E2%80%93Shannon%E2%80%93Reeds_model&quot;&gt;theoretical random riffle shuffle&lt;/a&gt;.  Of course, again, the source of the randomness is under the shuffler's control, so a skilled shuffler could, in principle, use this to stack the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nice feature of both the pile and the Mongean shuffles is that, even if done non-randomly, they still serve to spread out clumps of cards; indeed, a &quot;perfect&quot; Mongean or pile shuffle breaks up clumps &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; efficiently than one would expect by random chance.  For some purposes, this may be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you want to shuffle a small number of cards really randomly, one of the most efficient methods may be the simplest: the &lt;a href=&quot;//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Corgi.2C_Chemmy.2C_Irish_or_Wash_shuffle&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;wash shuffle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, where you simply spread the cards on the table face down and push them around randomly before gathering them up again.  It's simple, it's crude, but it does the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T09:34:06.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14173" CreationDate="2014-01-10T15:58:21.343" Score="5" ViewCount="1436" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a comment in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=21182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussion of Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Elder&quot;&gt;Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt; plus &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maze%20of%20Ith&quot;&gt;Maze of Ith&lt;/a&gt; provides infinite mana during your attack phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is that? In order for Argothian Elder to attack it has to tap, per rule 508.1f, and if Argothian Elder is tapped it can't be tapped again to activate the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could attack and tap to active abilities simultaneously, it'd work, but I don't think you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is the comment wrong or am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T01:42:52.727" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T01:42:52.727" Title="Does Argothian Elder and Maze of Ith really produce infinite mana during the attack phase?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2014-01-10T16:10:57.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=maze%20of%20ith&quot;&gt;maze of ith&lt;/a&gt; to untap him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=argothian%20elder&quot;&gt;argothian elder&lt;/a&gt; to untap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=maze%20of%20ith&quot;&gt;maze of ith&lt;/a&gt;, and one extra land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then you float a mana with that extra land, and repeat the process.  the result is 1 extra mana for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you can do this as much as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T16:10:57.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14171" CreationDate="2014-01-10T16:12:03.797" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to tap them simultaneously for this to work. Once you have declared &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Elder&quot;&gt;Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt; as an attacker, you can do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: Tap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maze%20of%20Ith&quot;&gt;Maze of Ith&lt;/a&gt; to untap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Elder&quot;&gt;Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Tap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Elder&quot;&gt;Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt; to untap Maze of Ith and another land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Tap that other land for mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4: Repeat as much as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T16:12:03.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14157" CreationDate="2014-01-10T17:15:37.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a card magician and a programmer who has written deck shuffling simulation software.  This gives me a unique (but by no means authoritative) perspective on this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Overhand and Hindu Shuffles&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAE7E-GOUk4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;overhand shuffle&lt;/a&gt; really should be adequate for anything less than 10 cards.  If this method doesn't feel comfortable in your hands or if you don't feel the cards are being mixed enough, try out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ZXhPWkro9A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hindu shuffle&lt;/a&gt;.  Most people naturally gravitate to one or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wash Shuffle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@Ilmari Karonen pointed out that the wash shuffle is great for small numbers of cards, and I agree with him.  The main drawbacks are that it requires a lot of table space, and it can be difficult to gather the cards if you are working on a hard, smooth surface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Table Riffle Shuffle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more than 10 cards, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xRVGq1XVydw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;table riffle shuffle&lt;/a&gt; really is the best technique for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its the most effective way to mix the cards, bar none.  In my opinion, even the wash shuffle is inferior to a handful of good riffle shuffles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It puts minimal wear on the cards when shuffled from the corners without putting a lot of flex on the cards.  This is particularly important for board games, which have much more expensive replacements than normal playing cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Faro Shuffle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other shuffle I occassionally use for board games, and thats an imperfect &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=57n09JxPWAI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;faro shuffle&lt;/a&gt;.  I wouldn't use this for a very small number of cards, but is possible for maybe 10 cards or more.  If you are worried about cards clumping during your overhand shuffles, sprinkling in a few faros will definitely solve that problem.  However the faro shuffle has three drawbacks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is difficult to learn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It can damage the edges and corners of the cards (particularly for beginners)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are good enough to do a series of &quot;perfect&quot; faros it isn't random&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these drawbacks are mitigated if you use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000LZ2KNO&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card sleeves&lt;/a&gt;.  Sleeved cards are much easier to faro, and do not get damaged.  It even solves the randomness problem because anyone good enough to do perfect faros will have mostly been practicing with unsleeved cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to spend hundreds of hours practicing, you can learn the fancy &lt;a href=&quot;http://vimeo.com/8493158&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one handed faro&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=1&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;ved=0CCwQFjAA&amp;amp;url=https://store.theory11.com/products/tabled-faro-shuffle-jason-england&amp;amp;ei=eCrQUoeBN6zhsAS7kYLADA&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNHYNLiqZA2UF1CAm407W1cyR2nF6w&amp;amp;sig2=AjdBU-HM_z0hjWh0NcxN3w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tabled faro&lt;/a&gt; to impress your friends (not recommended).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Pile Shuffle&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally would not use a pile shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not mix the cards as well as you would think.  Even if you haphazardly alternate the order, the cards will feel as though they are being randomized much more thoroughly than they actually are.  Its hard to go into more detail about why this is true without exposing some principles which magicians use in their tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Related:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shuffling (Wikipedia)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6564" LastEditorUserId="6564" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T18:07:30.753" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T18:07:30.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14176" CreationDate="2014-01-10T19:26:54.343" Score="5" ViewCount="2486" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Color_identity&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Colour identity&lt;/a&gt; is not only the colours in the casting cost, but any mana symbols that appear in the rules text (but not the reminder text!). Are there any legendary creatures that have a different colour identity to their card colour? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastActivityDate="2022-04-28T00:53:09.480" Title="Are there any EDH commanders whose colour identity is not solely determined by their mana cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14175" CreationDate="2014-01-10T19:34:54.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are. The color identity rules were &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=5200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;purposefully changed&lt;/a&gt; in 2010 to allow these legendary creatures to be played as commanders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bosh%2C%20Iron%20Golem&quot;&gt;Bosh, Iron Golem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memnarch&quot;&gt;Memnarch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thelon%20of%20Havenwood&quot;&gt;Thelon of Havenwood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daughter%20of%20Autumn&quot;&gt;Daughter of Autumn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rhys%2C%20the%20Exiled&quot;&gt;Rhys, the Exiled&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-01-10T19:34:54.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14584" CreationDate="2014-01-11T05:03:49.873" Score="3" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the card &quot;There's too many&quot;, in a two zombie player game, can zombie player 1 spawn zombie player 2's zombies if their remaining figures are out or are they forced to move the existing ones already on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6593" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2014-02-11T08:06:55.483" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T08:06:55.483" Title="Can the first zombie player spawn the second zombie player's zombies?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14180" CreationDate="2014-01-11T05:39:13.910" Score="1" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;Elder Thing's rule text states that &quot;This minion is not affected by opponents' cards.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what happens if an opponent plays a card (forget it's name. It was in the Minions of Cthulhu faction) that shuffles all minions in the base to the bottom of the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still affected? Or is it going to stay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4935" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T06:34:33.150" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T16:22:44.647" Title="Elder Thing - &quot;This minion is not affected by opponents' cards.&quot;" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14152" CreationDate="2014-01-11T13:02:50.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, found the answer to that in the manual, page 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players continue playing rounds until all players have used up their action discs or cannot play anything; then they proceed to phase 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you can still use a market or port, if you're able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T13:02:50.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14178" CreationDate="2014-01-11T14:41:08.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite explicit: &lt;em&gt;&quot;This minion is not affected by opponents cards.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; That means any cards, so it doesn't get shuffled to the bottom of the deck. It will stay in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T16:22:44.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T16:22:44.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-11T21:01:30.120" Score="7" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like Possession in Dominion: Alchemy is one of those cards that only very experienced players really know how to counter. Heck, I tend to see myself as an experienced Dominion player and I don't really see any ways to counter Possession at all, besides for the obvious way of trying to accumulate more Possessions than the other player(s).&#xA;Does anyone have any idea as to a reasonable counter of Possession?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I do not own Alchemy, (but have played with it before), and have heard rumors from friends who &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; played with Possession before that it is an exceedingly powerful card and incredibly difficult, if not impossible to counter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T13:51:39.557" Title="Good counter to Possession in Dominon: Alchemy" Tags="|dominion|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14181" CreationDate="2014-01-11T21:15:30.463" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good discussion with lots of tips to that exact same question is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=10001.0&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=10001.0&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, more often than not you can just ignore Possession. It's really expensive, and on many boards, you can just get enough points without it that your opponent who is going for it will be too far behind. Remember that if you have $6 and a potion, then if that Potion had been a silver instead, you'd have $8 for a Province. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attack cards are another good counter. If your opponent wants to make the best out of the extra turn, he'll have to play cards that hurt his own deck. Be careful to not build a super strong deck that can buy many Provinces each turn; but if your opponent can't do more than buy one Province or Duchy on the extra turn, then he's not getting a lot of use out of the Possession. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Kingdom makes it possible to have a deck that can play many Possessions per turn, then the best thing may be to get Possessions yourself and play as many as you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T21:15:30.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14183" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-11T22:32:47.057" Score="4" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that can be done against a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stigma%20Lasher&quot;&gt;Stigma Lasher&lt;/a&gt; if you have a life gain deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card seems quite broken.  2 mana for a 2/2 wither is a good card.  But to have it ruin any hope of lifegain for the rest of the game seems unfair.  (The rulings say that you still cannot gain life even if you kill Stigma Lasher.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was planning to build a life gain deck to counter my friends burn deck.  But that seems pointless now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He can add a few of these and some cards like Soul's Fire or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Power%20of%20Fire&quot;&gt;Power of Fire&lt;/a&gt; (letting a creature damage a player without a chance to block) and I will be done for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to remove the effect of Stigma Lasher once it has done combat damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T23:16:16.723" LastActivityDate="2018-02-09T15:23:57.107" Title="Does a Life Gain deck have any hope against a Stigma Lasher?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14183" CreationDate="2014-01-11T22:34:11.340" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Effects that say &quot;until the end of the game&quot; are never removed or negated by any other effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, when Stigma Lasher deals damage to a player, the triggered ability creates a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Continuous_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;continuous effect&lt;/a&gt;. This effect is not attached to any permanent or targetable game object, so there are no Magic cards that will enable you to gain life after that effect resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-11T22:40:33.257" LastActivityDate="2014-01-11T22:40:33.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14177" CreationDate="2014-01-12T00:50:44.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't matter if you could, since you are only allowed to place zombies if you roll &lt;strong&gt;higher&lt;/strong&gt; than the number of zombies you personally control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/lastnightonearth/pdf/LNOE_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules state&lt;/a&gt; the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Place Starting Zombies&lt;/strong&gt; -  The Zombie Player starts the game with 2d6 Zombies on the board (&lt;strong&gt;or 1d6 each if there are two Zombie Players&lt;/strong&gt;). Place the rolled number of Zombies on the board from your Zombie Pool. [...] If there are two Zombie Players, they are only limited in this way by &lt;strong&gt;their own color&lt;/strong&gt; of Zombie (that is, the two players may double up Zombies on a Spawning Pit before each pit has a Zombie on it). (page 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3) Roll To Spawn New Zombies&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] If there are two Zombie players, each of them instead only rolls 1d6, needing to roll over the number of Zombies that &lt;strong&gt;they personally control&lt;/strong&gt; on the board. (page 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since each player starts with 6 zombies of their color, and you need to roll a 1d6 higher than the number you personally control, you cannot roller higher than '6'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T00:50:44.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-12T01:02:20.060" Score="2" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a hero player use a Hero Event card to help out another hero player's character, or must they only use Hero Events on their own character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T01:02:20.060" Title="Can a Hero Event be used on another Hero player?" Tags="|last-night-on-earth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14186" CreationDate="2014-01-12T01:02:20.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Hero Events may be used on any hero unless they state otherwise. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/lastnightonearth/pdf/LNOE_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules specifically&lt;/a&gt; point this out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Events (Gold bordered) are taken into the player’s hand and kept secret from the Zombies. They can be strategically &lt;strong&gt;played on any Hero&lt;/strong&gt; to give them an edge or save them from a grizzly fate. (page 4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Events are not associated with any one Hero, but instead are held by the player to be used whenever is appropriate (some cards are listed as Play Immediately. These cards often have an effect that is used for the Hero currently taking their turn). (page 11)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T01:02:20.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14183" CreationDate="2014-01-12T01:28:06.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no way to remove the effect&lt;/strong&gt;, but you could play around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Transcendence&quot;&gt;Transcendence&lt;/a&gt; prevents you from losing for having negative life, but instead you lose for having 20+ life (which you no longer have to worry about).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T01:28:06.450" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14191" CreationDate="2014-01-12T02:14:18.667" Score="2" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207908&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Homing Sliver&lt;/a&gt; gives each sliver card in each player's hand slivercycling 3. My question is... does it do that even if Homing Sliver hasn't been cast? Or do slivers in peoples hands only gain that ability after homing sliver is on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T02:33:02.610" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T02:33:02.610" Title="Does Homing Sliver give other Slivers slivercycling even before it's been cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14190" CreationDate="2014-01-12T02:20:13.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Homing Sliver only affects other Sliver cards when it is in play. The ability that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Sliver card in each player's hand has slivercycling {3}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Static_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;static ability&lt;/a&gt;. Rule 604.2 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These effects are active as long as the permanent with the ability remains on the battlefield and has the ability, or as long as the object with the ability remains in the appropriate zone, as described in rule 112.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ability does not match any of the exceptions mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 112.6&lt;/a&gt;, so it is only active as long as the Homing Sliver is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that as long as Homing Sliver &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; on the battlefield, every Sliver card in each player's hand has the &lt;em&gt;activated ability&lt;/em&gt; slivercycling, which does work from the hand because it matches rule 112.6i:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object's activated ability that has a cost that can't be paid while the object is on the battlefield functions from any zone in which its cost can be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T02:32:28.560" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T02:32:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14183" CreationDate="2014-01-12T02:54:17.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stigma Lasher's effect cannot be removed while the game is still going on — so, obviously, the only way around it is to abandon the current game and replace it with a new one by using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;'s third ability, which gets rid of the effect and also everything you've accomplished so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T02:54:17.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14194" CreationDate="2014-01-12T04:17:36.490" Score="1" ViewCount="977" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hibernation%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Hibernation Sliver&lt;/a&gt; states all slivers have &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Pay 2 life: Return this permanent to its owner's hand&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. So what if you have a sliver like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necrotic%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Necrotic Sliver&lt;/a&gt; that gives all slivers &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;3, Sacrifice this permanent: Destroy target permanent.&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;? Can you sacrifice a sliver and then return it to your owners hand before it goes into the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T11:24:47.407" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T11:24:47.407" Title="Hibernation Sliver and sacrifices" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14193" CreationDate="2014-01-12T04:20:48.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot sacrifice a sliver to Necrotic Sliver's ability and then return it to your hand with Hibernation Sliver's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you activate Necrotic Sliver's ability, you sacrifice the creature as part of the cost. By the time the ability is on the stack and you have a chance to do anything else, the creature is already off the battlefield, so it cannot activate the other ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T06:27:35.390" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T06:27:35.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-12T09:52:27.083" Score="10" ViewCount="2786" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the box, Eclipse says a game takes 30 minutes per player. We've only played it three times - two-player each time - and our games have taken between two and three hours, rather than the one hour predicted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think we're particularly slow players (we both get frustrated by slow players in other games), so I was wondering how long other people found the game takes. Does it take proportionally less time with more players? Does it get quicker with practice? (If anything it's getting slower for us as we understand the game better and realise more the consequences of our choices!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3024" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T00:00:30.627" Title="Does Eclipse under-estimate the game length, or are we playing it incredibly slowly?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14203" CreationDate="2014-01-12T16:03:59.860" Score="4" ViewCount="4924" Body="&lt;p&gt;For those not familiar with this Haunt, a found a general description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://betrayalhouse.tumblr.com/Haunt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haunt #43 — The Star Sickness&lt;/a&gt;, (although sadly not the exact rule text, so if someone has the rules handy please update).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played this haunt the other day and interpreted the rules to mean that a traitor was only killed by the serum when it was injected in them by an Alien, because the rule stating they were killed by the serum were in the Alien section of the Haunt description. Thus when a traitor was immunized by a player we assumed it had no effect. But as we played it out, this didn't seem to make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the link above, it appears the correct interpretation is that when a traitor is injected for any reason they die, and when a player is injected they are cured. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this didn't make sense to us either because then a traitor would have to reveal themselves as such when someone wanted to &quot;cure&quot; them. Or is this how it is supposed to work? The best way to root out traitors is to try and cure them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T23:39:02.970" Title="In Haunt #43 - The Star Sickness, does any use of the serum on a traitor kill them?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15223" CreationDate="2014-01-12T16:09:59.183" Score="6" ViewCount="1867" Body="&lt;p&gt;During Haunt #43 - The Star Sickness, I was infected as a traitor early in the Haunt, but also previously harvested enough Mandrake root to make the serum. Not knowing what to do, I proceeded to the Lab and made the serum, but at this point it wasn't obvious what I should do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing the players asked was if I injected myself, which I did not, so they immediately suspected me of being a traitor. Given that I wasn't the last traitor to should I have just run away from the players to prevent them from curing themselves and hoping the damage rolls at the end of each turn eventually killed them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was the last traitor to have been infected should I have tried to infect a weak player and hope they weren't strong enough to steal the serum from me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-12T17:33:24.553" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T01:16:41.570" Title="In Haunt #43 - The Star Sickness: I'm a Traitor and Have the Serum, now what?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14199" CreationDate="2014-01-12T18:21:14.807" Score="4" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Victimize&quot;&gt;Victimize&lt;/a&gt; that says, among other things &amp;quot;choose two target creature cards in your graveyard&amp;quot;...  what if I only have one creature card in my graveyard? Can I still cast the spell? Do I need to have two valid legal targets to actually cast the spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T00:40:28.543" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T19:44:31.887" Title="Can you chose fewer targets than a spell permits?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14198" CreationDate="2014-01-12T18:56:21.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't. You need to specify all targets. It would say &quot;up to two targets&quot; if you could target less. That is also for example the downside of the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247382&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hex&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="13806" LastEditDate="2018-09-10T19:44:31.887" LastActivityDate="2018-09-10T19:44:31.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14215" CreationDate="2014-01-12T20:34:48.463" Score="1" ViewCount="980" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer:&lt;/strong&gt; I know there's already been some discussion on this topic, but I'm going to ask the question anyway because I've never played the game before, and thus, have yet to use my copy of Power Grid in the context of actually playing the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some general tips for people who have &lt;em&gt;never played before&lt;/em&gt; to get started and have an actual idea of what they're doing in Power Grid? Also, what are some tips for explaining the game to people who have also never played the game before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Sorry if this question seems like it's been asked before (and thus, horribly redundant), and altogether a dumb question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T09:47:08.677" Title="Good tips for first-time Power Grid players?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-01-14T21:53:21.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14196" CreationDate="2014-01-12T23:39:02.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the best way to determine if someone is a traitor is to (attempt to) inject them with the serum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are a traitor they are killed by agreeing to the serum, and if they are not a traitor it completely absolves them of any current or future suspicion, plus heals them back to their starting values and stops them potentially taking damage each turn from the physical attack that occurs on the haunt revealer's turn (this is not directly stated, but is implied by the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they refuse, you then have a fairly good idea that they are a traitor, after which they can then do their best to infect you, or die by other means and become an alien.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your confusion over the serum, any explorer can use it, but it would mostly be pointless for a traitor to (the only good case I can think of for a traitor using the serum on another explorer is to redirect suspicion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that on becoming an alien the explorer drops all items and that aliens cannot trade items. This seems to indicate a general &lt;strong&gt;intent&lt;/strong&gt; in the rules for aliens to not be able to use items, but it also specifically says that aliens are treated as monsters only for the purposes of movement and taking damage, thus rules-as-read they are not technically prevented from later picking up or stealing items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-12T23:39:02.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14205" CreationDate="2014-01-13T02:02:48.680" Score="2" ViewCount="2681" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a spell &quot;Cast&quot; when it is first declared and put on the stack?  Or when it resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to think it was when it resolves.  But I think I am wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if my opponent puts a creature spell on the stack, then I put the spell Silence on the stack, it sounds like all spells on the stack will still resolve.  (I get that any other spells can also go on the stack and resolve until Silence resolves.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess that spells that use the word &quot;Cast&quot; mean when they are first put on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T03:31:08.823" Title="When is a Spell considered to be &quot;Cast&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14204" CreationDate="2014-01-13T02:16:14.607" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither. A spell is cast after its costs are payed, before anyone has a chance to respond to it, before it resolves. From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, if you cast Silence, it will be too late to stop any spells that are already on the stack. This is also important for effects that say &quot;whenever you cast a spell&quot;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-13T03:31:08.823" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T03:31:08.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7949" CreationDate="2014-01-13T07:42:11.753" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few months ago I wrote a Linux shell script which calculates the prices for each set; it's imperfect, and can use significant polish, but it may shed some light on this question. Please note that it does rely upon some assumptions which do not necessarily hold for all of the sets in consideration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A booster pack contains 15 cards: one rare/mythic rare (with a 1/8 chance of mrare), three uncommons, and 11 commons. (This does not hold for early sets.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All cards of a given rarity are equally probable in each card &quot;slot&quot; of that rarity. (It should be noted that it does not distinguish a land slot, but includes it as a common. This should pull down the average for Zendikar specifically. Also, it allows a theoretical M14 pack containing 11 Merfolk Spy's.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;average&quot; prices, which are obtained from TCGPlayer's website, are reliable. (If a set does not have proper data from this source, it is ignored. Most sets do, fortunately.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foil cards are ignored entirely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under these constraints, the booster packs with the highest EV, as of this date (1/13/2014), would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$162.09 Arabian Nights&#xA;$87.43  Unlimited Edition&#xA;$35.63  Legends&#xA;$12.40  Revised Edition&#xA;$11.48  Modern Masters&#xA;$11.25  Portal Second Age&#xA;$9.92   Alliances&#xA;$9.07   Future Sight&#xA;$8.37   Tempest&#xA;$7.49   Portal&#xA;$6.87   Worldwake&#xA;$6.73   Coldsnap&#xA;$6.69   Shadowmoor&#xA;$6.66   Fifth Dawn&#xA;$6.64   Urza's Saga&#xA;$6.50   Darksteel&#xA;$6.40   Lorwyn&#xA;$6.34   Eventide&#xA;$6.21   The Dark&#xA;$6.16   Ravnica&#xA;...&#xA;$4.71   Theros&#xA;...&#xA;$3.35   Homelands&#xA;$3.16   Dark Ascension&#xA;$2.95   Chronicles&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, most of the first few sets are off, since they didn't have 15 card packs. (Beta and Alpha are omitted because the sheer rarity of the cards there means some don't have prices listed.) I included Theros, the most recent set, to illustrate that, by these calculations, a pack of even the most current set is &lt;strong&gt;expected to be worth more when opened ($4.71) than when sealed ($4.00)&lt;/strong&gt; -- which should be taken into consideration when interpreting these values. (Theros was actually nearer $5.50 when I originally wrote this script -- quite a value drop.) Also, it's interesting to note that the weakest three sets are Chronicles, Dark Ascension, and Homelands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested, the bash scripts are &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/HK0bmCVJ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PriceCheck&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/sSm2KPxL&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MassPriceCheck&lt;/a&gt;; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./PriceCheck -s /path/to/pricefile&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;takes a downloaded version of the price page for a set (pricefile) and prints the EV of a pack under the assumptions above. (Without the -s (&quot;simple&quot;) flag, it'll also print the EV of the individual card &quot;slots&quot; as well.) When executed in the same directory as PriceCheck,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./MassPriceCheck&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;downloads all of the pricefiles for each set (including garbage pseudosets listed there, like Duel Decks, which I haven't bothered to write code to exclude), dumps that into the directory &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;./junk/&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and runs PriceCheck on each of the pricefiles systematically. The scripts are pretty terrible, but they weren't really meant for anything more than sating my own curiosity, if that assuages any guilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6337" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T07:42:11.753" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14209" CreationDate="2014-01-13T16:18:22.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have 5 Speed and use 1 to move into a location that has an open portal does your movement end or do you continue on into the gate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly if you use your last movement point and land on an open gate are you unable to go into the gate until the next movement (and in this case have a separate Encounter on the Arkham location)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T22:33:06.367" Title="Does movement end when you land on an open gate?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14208" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14210" CreationDate="2014-01-13T16:25:19.793" Score="3" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an Encounter card that was drawn that caused Stamina damage. The player has a spell that negates any Stamina damage at the cost of one Sanity if roll is successful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that roll fails is the player able to re-roll until they are successful or lose all Sanity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to that, if the current Environment effect is Planetary Alignment which reduces all spell Sanity cost by one it would make the Sanity cost zero. In this case would the player be able to roll until successful with infinite chances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:22:22.573" Title="Do you only get one chance at casting a spell?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14207" CreationDate="2014-01-13T16:56:39.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two different forms of movement in Arkham Horror.  These are described on page 6 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkham Movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other World Movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each investigator must choose which they will use based on where they are located at the beginning of their movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are using Arkham Movement, use your speed points to move as you will.  Of course you need to stop if you fight a monster.  Other than that, there are few limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not use speed points to go through a gate.  Going through a gate is typically done during &lt;em&gt;Phase III: Arkham Encounters&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T16:56:39.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14208" CreationDate="2014-01-13T18:22:22.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you get only once chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key phrase is &amp;quot;cast and exhaust&amp;quot;. An exhausted card can't be used again until it's un-exhausted during the next turn's upkeep. And the spell is exhausted whether or not you succeed at casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are a little bit fuzzy on this, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/437-official-answers-from-kevin-wilson/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; has a pretty clear answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does an unsuccessful attempt to cast a spell still exhaust it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-13T18:22:22.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T05:50:48.433" Score="11" ViewCount="3192" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our board games club recently purchased Race for the Galaxy and we've played around a dozen games so far, plus some research using Keldon's AI (which is excellent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the base set with one world, when you draw a starting planet that confers a specific bonus, eg +2 Military does that force you down the Military path? As for a Produce/Consume strategy you are behind a player who drew a Mining world for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6607" LastEditorUserId="6607" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T10:44:48.540" LastActivityDate="2017-03-14T23:16:21.643" Title="Does the starting world dictate your strategy in Race for the Galaxy?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14213" CreationDate="2014-01-14T06:47:23.933" Score="3" ViewCount="3096" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/legacy/21524_The_Long_And_Winding_Road_Legacy_Elves.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/legacy/21524_The_Long_And_Winding_Road_Legacy_Elves.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the spells in that deck are green as are all the creatures. And yet the deck has two fetch lands - Misty Rainforests - which fetches islands and forests - and Verdant Catacombs - which fetches forests and swamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the cards in the sideboard are blue and black I note. My guess: basic lands can be swapped out without needing to live in your sideboard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T16:14:51.023" Title="do basic lands count against sideboard total?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14212" CreationDate="2014-01-14T07:11:59.963" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot swap in basic lands during a match or tournament in constructed unless they are part of your sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fetch lands are in the deck to filter the lands as soon as possible. They only fetch forests in this deck. When you fetch a forest, there are less cards in your deck, so the chance of drawing a card you want (not a land usually) is bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The black and blue cards in the sideboard are traps, they can be played for free in certain circumstances, so therefore you need no black or blue mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T16:14:51.023" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T16:14:51.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13381" CreationDate="2014-01-14T07:53:30.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your looking at the box with the token slots closest to you. Figs on the far side. From left to right its: dice, bag of (mp/ap/damage/coins), demonic rewards(gold and 1/2 of granite), demonic rewards (jade and 1/2 granite) (each slot holds 1&amp;amp;1/2 colors), round tokens(mobs,traps,bombs), gg tokens,&#xA;The character cards have an obvious spot in the bottom and the terrain stacks on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6609" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T07:53:30.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14200" CreationDate="2014-01-14T09:47:08.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The other question is about beginner tactics so do read that, however I'll cover a couple of common confusions for first timers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Board regions (in the base game) have no meaning other than to decide the size of the playing area.  The rules describe setting up as having one area per player.  That should be read as &quot;if you have three players use a 3-area-sized playing area&quot; &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Albert has the red area, Bert has blue, Charlie has green,...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have to build additional houses in a way that is connected to your network.  That does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; mean they have to be &lt;em&gt;adjacent&lt;/em&gt;.  You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; build &lt;em&gt;anywhere&lt;/em&gt; but to do so you have to pay the connection cost across to your existing network. Unlike in Settlers, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; build through others' houses; but, boy, is it expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Turn Order&quot; can be confusing.  The order as indicated by the order of markers on the line is only used once per round, most of the time the order is the &lt;em&gt;reverse&lt;/em&gt; of that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1a. On some expansion boards particular areas affect the play, for example you can't build nuclear if you're &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; in Eire on the UK map or Denmark on the Europe map, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T09:47:08.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5297" CreationDate="2014-01-14T11:13:12.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I read the rules, In The Spotlight is played on a player after all players have played mission cards, before they are collected an shuffled.  After it is played, no player may change their card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T11:13:12.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T13:49:44.443" Score="3" ViewCount="3033" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Witchbane%20Orb&quot;&gt;Witchbane Orb&lt;/a&gt;, then I (the player) have hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are permanents I control also hexproof? Or am I only hexproof from abilities that target me specifically?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt; be used to destroy creatures with hexproof, because it is not targeting the creature(s)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6611" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:10:13.973" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:10:13.973" Title="Do permanents controlled by a player with hexproof also have hexproof?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14219" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T13:55:38.987" Score="3" ViewCount="1846" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies, the Axis, unlike the Allies, do not have to play for the total destruction of the other side. If at any time, they control territories representing 84 industrial production certificates (IPCs), they win. This compares with a total of 147 IPCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical matter, the Axis will have overcome their initial disadvantage if they even have as many as 74 IPCs (barely more than half), unless the Allies have compensation in more technology advances (e.g. heavy bombers). This correlates with my own sense that the Axis would have won World War II if at any time they had gained half or more of the world's industrial capacity (they actually got one quarter), barring an Allied tech breakthrough (like the atomic bomb).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking the following questions because I have never experienced the situations myself. Has anyone either played or watched a game in which the Axis got the preponderance of IPCs (74-83) and the Allies came back to win? (This would tend to negate the EV scenario.) If so, was it for &quot;tech&quot; or other reasons? Conversely, has anyone ever seen the Axis fall (for a whole turn) below their initial 57 IPCs and come back to win with such an economic disadvantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T16:18:15.323" Title="In Axis and Allies, is the Axis &quot;economic victory&quot; condition a valid one?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14211" CreationDate="2014-01-14T13:59:56.357" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that the start world is able to give you a jumpstart toward one or more specific strategies (the military world is probably the best example), but you can still play a very successful strategy that does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; revolve around (get it?) that world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often make the decision about whether to commit to the start world pretty early on. A very common strategy, I'm sure you've noticed, is to play Explore on the first round. Between my starting four cards and my first explore draw, I will try to find a strategy that will get me ~50% of the way through my tableau (not necessarily from the cards in hand, but from the powers and phase plays I expect to focus on). If there's one that the start world helps, that's usually weighted pretty heavily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a strategy coalesces in my hand that the start world does little to help, I'll usually still go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T13:59:56.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14218" CreationDate="2014-01-14T14:09:53.563" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are the only one protected from opponent's spells that target you with a witchbane orb. Saying a player is hex proof is not the same as saying all of their permanents are hex proof as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for wrath of god and other 'All creatures' or 'all players' spells. Since there is no targeting hex proof does not protect a creature from Wrath of God. Indestructible would protect a creature from wrath of god, but not hex proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at Comp rule 114.1a a definition for targeted is made. It says that the verbiage 'target [something]' is the indicator that a spell is targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at 702.11 the definition for hex proof says a permanent can't be the target of a spell. meaning it can't be targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a Wrath Of God that says 'Destroy All Creatures' is not considered a targeted spell and thus is not hampered by hex proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore looking at 114.9a it is clarified that just because a spell or ability can affect objects and players they don't target does not mean they have atrgeted that player or object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T14:16:01.653" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T14:16:01.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14195" CreationDate="2014-01-14T15:56:50.690" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think games companies often estimate the time based on players &lt;em&gt;who know the game&lt;/em&gt;. My first few plays of a game will often run long compared to the estimated time on the box, but my tenth, fiftieth or hundredth play will often come in around the box estimate (or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eclipse is a big game with lots of things to take account of (various technologies, balancing your empires, etc.). I'd expect your first five or ten plays to require extra thinking time while you get to grips with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T15:56:50.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14211" CreationDate="2014-01-14T18:20:35.377" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a common beginner's mistake to pick a strategy too soon, and to stick to it, come hell or high water.  Having New Sparta helps start a military strategy, but if playable military cards don't come your way early, you will have to take a different path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, it doesn't determine your path.  It gives you a jump on one path, but you determine your strategy based on all the cards you see, not just your starting homeworld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastEditorUserId="3534" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T21:52:12.913" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T21:52:12.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-14T18:20:52.917" Score="6" ViewCount="12184" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an untapped creature is targeted with an &quot;untap target creature&quot; spell or ability, will it be considered becoming untapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6615" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T18:27:14.857" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T14:02:16.093" Title="Can an untapped creature &quot;become untapped?&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14225" CreationDate="2014-01-14T18:28:55.320" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. There must be a transition. As per the English definition, &amp;quot;to become untapped&amp;quot; is &amp;quot;to begin to be untapped&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the ability you mentioned won't even try to untap it. It's impossible untap a permanent that's already untapped. That's why you can't activate an ability with the untap symbol ({Q}) in its cost if the source of the ability is already untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, it's impossible to tap a permanent that's already tapped. That's why you can't activate an ability with the tap symbol ({T}) in its cost if the source of the ability is already tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wouldn't stop you from casting a spell that would try to do these impossible actions. The spell will simply do as much as possible, and skip over the impossible instruction. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gerrad%27s%20Command&quot;&gt;Gerrad&amp;#39;s Command&lt;/a&gt; on an untapped creature would effectively become &amp;quot;Target creature gets +3/+3 until end of turn.&amp;quot;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crippling%20Chill&quot;&gt;Crippling Chill&lt;/a&gt; on tapped creature would effectively become &amp;quot;Target creature doesn't untap during its controller's next untap step.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T14:02:16.093" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T14:02:16.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14227" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:26:58.713" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:26:58.713" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:26:58.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14228" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:26:58.713" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:26:58.713" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:26:58.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14234" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:35:46.870" Score="4" ViewCount="1058" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the Flashback ability only exists on instants and sorceries. But with all the various strange combinations and rules quirks that exist in MTG, I was wondering if there's anything that can cause a creature or enchantment or land to have Flashback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then what would happen if you cast it for the Flashback cost? Flashback rules say that the card is exiled after it is cast, so I'm guessing that the card would never enter the battlefield at all; rather it would just resolve and be exiled immediately. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T20:06:48.627" Title="Can a non-instant or sorcery ever have flashback?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14230" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:36:48.403" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:36:48.403" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:36:48.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14231" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:36:48.403" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:36:48.403" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:36:48.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14232" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:44:04.737" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:44:04.737" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:44:04.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14233" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:44:04.737" Score="0" Body="This tag refers to questions specifically about dice themselves, covering topics such as rolling, construction, sizes etc. It *is not* a meta tag for adding to any game-with-dice question (including identify this game with dice; the identify-this-game tag is sufficient)" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="22346" LastEditDate="2021-09-02T11:43:48.280" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T11:43:48.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14229" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:46:40.653" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's currently impossible for a permanent card to gain Flashback&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;, but let's say it's possible. Instead of being put on the battlefield on resolution, the card would be exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Flashback [cost]” means “You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost” and “If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.” &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flashback can only be granted to instants and sorceries, and it would be too messed up for a card with a permanent type to gain one of those types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T20:06:48.627" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T20:06:48.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8480" CreationDate="2014-01-14T19:52:29.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I remember correctly, it would depend on whether you're playing the American or British version of the game (I've owned both). In the British version, you would only get 4x from the unmortgaged utility (mortgaged properties of any kind do not count towards bonuses in that version), but in the American one, you would get 10x if your opponent lands on the unmortgaged utility and you own both, even if the other is mortgaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6618" LastEditorUserId="6618" LastEditDate="2014-01-14T19:59:30.180" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T19:59:30.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15050" CreationDate="2014-01-14T21:20:41.870" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Castaways&lt;/strong&gt;, the red camp cards stay in the camp board until they are &quot;dealt with&quot;. There are some camp cards, such as #51 (Argument), that have no clear condition stating how to &quot;deal with&quot; the card. Does this means that the card stays forever in the camp board, or that after a player triggers its effects it should be removed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T23:09:28.247" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T21:38:58.230" Title="Removal of red camp cards from the camp board" Tags="|castaways|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14800" CreationDate="2014-01-14T21:40:16.013" Score="3" ViewCount="2824" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Castaways&lt;/strong&gt;, Charles Barnard's or Mary Rose Rhone's first aid skill is so poorly worded that it is incomprehensible. It reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may roll a die before checking for trauma. If you get a 5 or 6, remove one trauma from any player. Then, you may discard 2 story points in order to remove 1 trauma from any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems it should read like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the &lt;em&gt;End of the turn&lt;/em&gt; phase, you may roll a die before checking if injuries will become traumas. If you roll 5 or 6, remove 1 trauma from any player. Even if you did not roll 5 or 6, you may discard 2 story points in order to remove 1 trauma from any player. This skill can be used once per &lt;em&gt;End of the turn&lt;/em&gt; phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, those characters can remove up to 2 traumas from any player (meaning 2 from a single player or 1 from 2 different players) during the &lt;em&gt;End of the turn&lt;/em&gt; phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I right? What is the correct interpretation for this card?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T12:41:25.477" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T18:39:27.310" Title="First aid skill" Tags="|castaways|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13877" CreationDate="2014-01-14T21:53:14.980" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The customer is not necessarily right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is correct in that just because Poker can be played with a deck of another size, does not mean the cards of that size are &quot;poker size&quot; cards. However, he is incorrect in that there is exactly one set of dimensions for a playing card that are inviolably and universally standardized as &quot;Poker size&quot;. Just in the question, Roaring Fish's answer and aramis's comment, we've gotten three unequal dimensions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia states that the standard for a &quot;poker size&quot; card is 2.5&quot;x3.5&quot;, which when converted to metric is 63.5x88.9mm. That same paragraph states that this is a B8 card; however, the ISO B8 paper size is &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; 62x88mm. So, right there, you have two different sizes based on who's doing the measuring; a U.S.-based printing house, or a European or Asian one. Conversion of the U.S. measurements to an exact millimeter value produces more very close but not quite equal measurements: the width could be 63 or 64mm, while height could be 88 or 89mm. In any case, the U.S. poker size works out to a larger card than a true B8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you might say that these differences of a millimeter or two either way are insignificant, and thus the customer is right; they're the same size. It is indeed a small difference for the player or the game designer, but printers live and die on smaller measurements than that. In this case, the ISO standards for paper and card stock measurements are used to sell the raw materials in Europe, so a printer might be starting with a B0 sheet of card stock (1m x 1.414m) to print the cards for your game. Each larger number in the size series represents a halving of the longer dimension of the next larger size, to create a sheet half the size of the larger. Producing true B8 cards from a B0 sheet of card stock is thus a relatively simple matter of dividing this sheet by 16 (2^4) in each dimension (rounding down, as some material is invariably lost to the cutting process), giving the printer 256 B8 cards per B0 sheet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the publisher were to insist, as the customer here is inferring, that poker-size cards are exactly 2.5x3.5&quot; and no other size will do, now the sheet can only fit 15 cards on a side or 225 total, because the extra 1.5mm per card makes the B0 sheet a full quarter card too narrow, and 10mm too short, to have the extra 31 cards on the same sheet. That increases waste per B0 sheet from a mere 48 square millimeters per B0 sheet (inherent in the printing/cutting process) to 3750 square millimeters of paper you're still paying for that's now going to the landfill. More importantly, it means that a print run of a game with more than 225 cards will require a second printing line to be tooled, adjusted, proofed and manned to print the sheets with the extra cards, and that &lt;em&gt;dramatically&lt;/em&gt; increases print costs, as well as the handling costs of splitting, sorting and packaging the extra sheet's worth of cards into the game boxes (and the intangible costs of the game being thought of as a screwup by customers should the packers get it wrong). These changes will definitely lead to a printer charging the publisher a higher cost per copy, and that can influence the decision of which printer to use, increasing the pricepoint of the game. If the size of the game box has to change in order to accomodate the just-slightly-larger cards (uncommon with board games, but card game boxes are a pretty tight fit to the decks inside), that can throw off the pallet stacking, so fewer boxes can fit on a standard pallet, meaning you're now spending money to ship the air between the game boxes instead of the game itself. All for 1mm (or less) on each side in the dimension of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Mr. Customer, there are at least 6 different permutations of exact measurement that are feasible for a &quot;poker size&quot; card, and the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; size of the playing cards you want can in fact make or break the financial success of your game. Whether it will or not, we can't know until you give us exact specifications, at which time we can design the printing plates of the game and give you a number, and possible ways to reduce inefficiency and save you money if you're willing to alter the game design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T16:23:58.397" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T16:23:58.397" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14225" CreationDate="2014-01-14T23:10:28.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless specified as part of the target (e.g. &amp;quot;target &lt;em&gt;tapped&lt;/em&gt; creature&amp;quot;), targeting &lt;em&gt;doesn't check or care&lt;/em&gt; whether that thing is already tapped, so you can target an untapped creature with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Surge&quot;&gt;Savage Surge&lt;/a&gt;. That's why cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devout%20Invocation&quot;&gt;Devout Invocation&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clock%20of%20Omens&quot;&gt;Clock of Omens&lt;/a&gt; specify that those permanent must be untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if a trigger looks for something that &amp;quot;becomes untapped&amp;quot; like the new inspiration cards, it require a &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; in the tapped/untapped status, just like cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brink%20of%20Disaster&quot;&gt;Brink of Disaster&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chronic%20Flooding&quot;&gt;Chronic Flooding&lt;/a&gt; (Compare with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bramble%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Bramble Elemental&lt;/a&gt; and its &amp;quot;becomes attached&amp;quot; trigger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T04:29:02.820" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T04:29:02.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14252" CreationDate="2014-01-14T23:15:10.053" Score="1" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=140200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt; copy an opponents &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=verdant%20force&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Verdant Force&lt;/a&gt;. The Verdant Force puts a 1/1 green Saproling creature token onto the battlefield at the beginning of each upkeep. The Shapesharer becomes a copy of target creature until your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I copy my opponents Verdant Force on my turn I'm going to assume that I only get one saproling token and not two? ie. I'd get one for his upkeep but not for mine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T16:55:45.683" Title="shapesharer and verdant force" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14241" CreationDate="2014-01-14T23:29:36.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is correct. Upkeep is the first phase of a turn, so when your turn next comes around, the only upkeep that would have occured is your opponents (assuming 1v1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-01-14T23:29:36.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14244" CreationDate="2014-01-15T00:58:17.047" Score="8" ViewCount="21590" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would happen if I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Portent%20of%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Portent of Betrayal&lt;/a&gt;'d a creature that had been enchanted by a bestow creature and cast a spell to give it protection from the enchantment's color on it to remove the bestowed creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have just bestowed a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nighthowler&quot;&gt;Nighthowler&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Asphodel%20Wanderer&quot;&gt;Asphodel Wanderer&lt;/a&gt; and passes the turn. I use Portent of Betrayal to take control of the Asphodel Wanderer, attack and in the second main I cast Gods Willing to give the Asphodel Wanderer protection from black. Nighthowler detaches and where does it go, my control, opponents control or graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional question, in the same vein:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I destroyed the creature while it was on my side? So change the gods willing to a hero's downfall in the example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevent (under state-based actions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6622" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:43:12.790" LastActivityDate="2020-04-19T19:43:47.650" Title="When I gain control of a creature, do I also gain control of any auras or equipment attached to it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14243" CreationDate="2014-01-15T01:12:25.400" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your opponent controls the Nighthowler.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control of an enchantment and control of the object it enchants are independent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing control of a permanent doesn't automatically change control of any Auras or Equipment attached to that permanent. Your opponent still controls the Nighthowler, even while you control the creature it enchants. And your opponent will retain control of the Nighthowler if it becomes detached from the creature you've stolen for any reason (e.g. that creature leaves the battlefield or Nighthowler can't enchant it anymore because it gains protection&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), because none of the game actions described are changing control &lt;em&gt;of the Nighthowler&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - The rules for bestow+protection are a bit poorly worded, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://tabakrules.tumblr.com/post/60977230738/note-on-bestow-and-protection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Manager Matt Tabak has confirmed that this is the correct interpretation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T21:01:22.447" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T21:01:22.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-15T06:02:48.290" Score="2" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent uses the ability where you can't untap until next turn can he use another card like that and have it stack for multiple turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6625" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T06:18:44.250" Title="Tapping opponents creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14247" CreationDate="2014-01-15T06:18:44.250" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the exact wording of the card in question (it's always helpful to give specific examples in these types of questions). If you mean a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sleep&quot;&gt;sleep&lt;/a&gt;, then no, it will not stack. Sleep makes the creatures not untap during the opponent's &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; untap step; even if you cast 2 of them on the same turn, they would both affect the same untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you mean something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=yosei%2C%20the%20morning%20star&quot;&gt;yosei, the morning star&lt;/a&gt;, then 2 instances of his triggered ability would stack. Each one would cause your opponent to skip his next untap step; so there are 2 replacement effects trying to replace the untap step. One if them would replace the next untap step with skipping that step; the other would would then still be around, waiting to skip the untap step that would happen after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T06:18:44.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14249" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-15T10:37:07.940" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T10:37:07.940" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T10:37:07.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14250" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-15T10:37:07.940" Score="0" Body="A game where 1-4 players play as shipwrecked characters who try to survive and escape from an island. Shall players manage to be rescued, the one who is able to tell the best story of survival and adventure will have it written and published in a world famous book, winning the match." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T08:23:52.857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T08:23:52.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14243" CreationDate="2014-01-15T16:01:44.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In both case, the Nighthowler becomes a permanent&lt;sup&gt;[CR 702.102e]&lt;/sup&gt;, and it remains under your opponent's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say &quot;remains&quot; because you never controlled it. Taking control of a permanent does not grant you control of any effects affecting the permanent, any equipment equipping it or any auras enchanting it. There's no reason for it to switch &quot;to your side&quot; just because it becomes detached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.102e If an Aura with bestow is attached to an illegal object or player, it becomes unattached. This is an exception to rule 704.5n.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T16:01:44.190" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14241" CreationDate="2014-01-15T16:26:23.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The earliest chance you would have to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shapesharer&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt;'s ability is in the Upkeep step&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. Since the beginning of your upkeep step has already gone by, the ability gained from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Verdant%20Force&quot;&gt;Verdant Force&lt;/a&gt; will never get a chance to trigger on your turn&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Untap step comes first, but you do not gain priority during the Uptap step, so you do not get to activate abilities in the Untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have more than one Upkeep steps for some reason (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Paradox%20Haze&quot;&gt;Paradox Haze&lt;/a&gt;), and if you activated Shapesharer's ability in the first Upkeep step, the ability it gained from Verdant Force would trigger in the second and subsequent Upkeep steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T16:55:45.683" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T16:55:45.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34866" CreationDate="2014-01-15T18:23:16.883" Score="14" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play games (causally) that involve face-up cards across a table (hold 'em, blackjack, etc), I usually have to either ask that the cards be placed closer to the center (toward me), particualrly at larger tables, in order to see them.  I can imagine that this would be an imposition, and perhaps even barred, in a casino setting.  And I imagine that even if I could ask that cards be announced when dealt (I don't know if that's possible), that I wouldn't be able to take notes to record them so I'd have to memorize the table every hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are those impressions correct?  If so, what affordances are available to visually-impaired players?  Or is this just one of those cases of &quot;sorry, don't try to do that&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I ask this question out of curiosity, not out of an impending desire to jump into casinos, for which I'm not good enough.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:04:33.660" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T23:52:49.413" Title="Is it practical for the visually-impaired to play in casinos?" Tags="|accessibility|casino|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14219" CreationDate="2014-01-15T20:16:26.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game becomes very interesting when the Axis achieves its goal of 84, only to lose France, or possibly some African territory.  They then take it back the next round, but only at the cost of expansion to other territories, and perhaps lose a couple of IPC's in the process.  I have witnessed this on a few occasions!  It mainly occurred because the Allies (usually U.S.) had just built up a large invasion force, and it would land on the same turn that the Axis got to 84.  Then Germany would have to fight backwards, and the next turn another invasion (U.K. this time) would hit France.  After that, it was typical for the German player to give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen the Axis fall below pre-war economic levels and then comeback to win the game.  Every time that has happened, we would play one more round, but it goes from bad to worse for the Axis, and mostly Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they had to take London or Washington, the Allies can simply stockpile in those locations, and Germany and Japan will be frustrated ad infinitum.  With the economic option, the Allies must get aggressive at some point and attack the Axis holdings.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mimics the war in a fairly realistic sense, and I think that, for an early WWII game, A&amp;amp;A did well at capturing the urgency for the Allied powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastEditorUserId="6632" LastEditDate="2014-01-15T20:23:21.140" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T20:23:21.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2014-01-15T21:02:51.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree with the previous sentiments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attempt to use Australia as a base of operations, you are putting yourself at the same disadvantage as Japan, (needing transports) but with fewer resources.  Also, with little effort, Japan could bring a large invasion force on turn 3 that would take Australia, and hold it, thereby providing them with a much-needed base to launch a southerly strike against the Western U.S.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stay in India, as it is highly unlikely that Japan will attempt to take Australia as you will be threatening his Asian holdings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I speak only to the original A&amp;amp;A.  Newer versions allow for Australia to be a more formidible opponent than a simple desert island with a couple of infantry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T21:02:51.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13952" CreationDate="2014-01-15T23:49:48.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Italy attacking France is a tough one. I've seen it done (or done it myself) at two points in the game: the opening year, when there's a chance to either take Marseilles or keep France from taking Spain or Portugal, and later in the game, when Italy teams up with England or Germany (teaming up with both is unlikely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first option - attacking right away - is pretty high risk. As Italy, you already have a guaranteed build in Tunis, and if you go after France, you most certainly will appear greedy and warmongering. A pissed-off France is guaranteed no matter the outcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something very neat that can be done, though, is Italy and France entering into an alliance and bouncing each other in Marseilles in the Autumn of 1901 (France: Spain-&gt; Marseilles, Italy: Piedmeont-&gt; Marseilles). That way, they appear to be fighting and each gain the trust of their respective neighbors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second option is more of a case-by-case basis - if, as Italy, you can ally with Germany or England and take out France - do it. Just be careful of Austria and Turkey allying against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6606" LastActivityDate="2014-01-15T23:49:48.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14258" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14259" CreationDate="2014-01-16T04:14:14.297" Score="7" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archmage%20Ascension&quot;&gt;Archmage Ascension&lt;/a&gt; in play with six quest counters and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Panglacial%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Panglacial Wurm&lt;/a&gt; in my library, and I activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chromatic%20Sphere&quot;&gt;Chromatic Sphere&lt;/a&gt;'s ability as part of the process of playing another spell, as in rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;601.2f&lt;/a&gt;, when do I attempt to start drawing the card? In particular, once the replacement ability takes effect and I instead search my library, can I start casting the Panglacial Wurm while I am still casting the other spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T04:58:15.500" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T05:22:49.247" Title="How do Chromatic Sphere, Archmage Ascension, and Panglacial Wurm interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14258" CreationDate="2014-01-16T04:47:17.420" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can I start casting the Panglacial Wurm while I am still casting the other spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. It doesn't matter at all that you are casting another spell&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game instructs you to cast (or gives you to option to cast) a spell, you must (or can) cast the spell. (And that's the only time you can cast a spell.) Most of the time, the instruction is in the rules, but it's on a card in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might say &quot;But I'm casting a creature when the stack isn't empty, and it might not even be my turn.&quot; Doesn't matter. Pangalcial Wurm doesn't say &quot;Cast Panglacial Wurm if it's you main phase and the stack is empty&quot; like priority effectively does&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast the other spell (TOS):&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place TOS on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You makes some choices.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You determine TOS's cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate mana abilities:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Chromatic Sphere's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chromatic Sphere's resolves immediately:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You add one mana of of the color of your choice to your mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You search your library for a card to place in your hand:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Panglacial Wurm:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place it on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You determine the cost to cast it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay the cost to cast it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place the card in your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You shuffle your library&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay TOS's cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[People get to play spells and activate abilities here if they want.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Panglacial Wurm resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place Panglacial Wurm on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[People get to play spells and activate abilities here if they want.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TOS resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Chromatic Sphere's ability is a mana ability, and it's possible to activate mana abilities while casting a spell. Casting a spell (or activating an ability) is to put it on the stack, make some choices (including targets), determine its cost, activate mana abilities, and pay its cost. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The stack isn't empty whether you use Chromatic Sphere's ability while casting another spell or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Priority could be defined as &quot;Whenever you gain priority, Choose one — Cast a non-instant spell if it's you main phase and the stack is empty; ...; or pass priority unless all players have passed priority in succession.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T05:22:49.247" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T05:22:49.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14262" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-01-16T12:32:59.777" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T12:32:59.777" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T12:32:59.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14263" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-01-16T12:32:59.777" Score="0" Body="Vassal website defines Vassal as &quot;a game engine for building and playing online adaptations of board games and card games&quot;." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T13:26:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T13:26:49.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13216" CreationDate="2014-01-16T17:49:52.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0060961279&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Winning Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; if you are interested in such analysis.  As other answers point out, payback period (combining rent amount and frequecy) is key for making winning decisions.  One of the point from this book that I haven't seen else where is determining what version of Monopoly you are playing.  Are you really playing until all others are bankrupt, or is there some (probably unstated) time limit for the game.  Knowing how much longer the game will last is key to putting payback period statistics to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T17:49:52.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14267" CreationDate="2014-01-16T18:04:06.920" Score="3" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly is Edmond Tanair's (scenario #03) scoring criteria? Is it &quot;a mountain per tile score you a victory point&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-16T20:29:23.667" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T20:29:23.667" Title="Edmond Tanair scoring criteria" Tags="|archipelago-solo-exp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12203" CreationDate="2014-01-16T18:18:04.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question seems to be answered in the comments:&#xA;@AdamP I had trouble finding your reference but Faro or Pharaoh seems to be close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T18:18:04.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14265" CreationDate="2014-01-16T20:28:47.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted Ludically and here is the designer answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You need to count the number of visible regions (hexes) that you have discovered and legally placed on the archipelago containing some mountains.&#xA;  If it has some textured mountains on the tile then it's counted as one, no matter how much mountain there is on the tile. Some islands for example also have mountains, such an island tile would be then worth 1 point towards your ranking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-01-16T20:28:47.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14269" CreationDate="2014-01-16T23:49:14.560" Score="2" ViewCount="7057" Body="&lt;p&gt;Case in point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Ill-Tempered Cyclops&quot;&gt;Ill-Tempered Cyclops&lt;/a&gt; has the Auras of (bestowed) &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373735&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thassa's Emissary&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Aqueous Form&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the Cyclops changes zone (returned to library, hand, gets exiled or moved to graveyard by any means necessary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be correct to presume that the &lt;strong&gt;Aqueous Form&lt;/strong&gt; goes to graveyard (like Auras do) and &lt;strong&gt;Thassa's Emissary&lt;/strong&gt; stays on the battlefield as a creature (like Enchantment Creatures do)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Questionable interpretation being that the &lt;strong&gt;Aqueous Form&lt;/strong&gt; stays on the &quot;new&quot; creature of &lt;strong&gt;Thassa's Emissary&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6641" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:40:22.560" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:40:22.560" Title="What happens to other Auras on a Creature enchanted with bestowing, when the Creature dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14268" CreationDate="2014-01-17T00:30:16.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aqueous Form goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't attach to the newly-a-creature Thassa's Emissary, because it wasn't enchanting Thassa's Emissary - it was enchanting the Cyclops, which has left the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/702-keyword-abilities.html#rule-702-102&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bestow&lt;/a&gt; comes with exceptions that let Thassa's Emissary simply become an Enchantment Creature once it's no longer attached, but there's nothing saying that it brings with it its formerly bestowed creature's auras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T03:21:23.067" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T03:21:23.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14327" CreationDate="2014-01-17T04:08:46.947" Score="3" ViewCount="2629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not a fan of 1/100 scale (and FoW infantry in 1/100 looks ugly). &#xA;Can I use 1/72 scale miniatures (infantry miniatures from Zvezda's &quot;Art of Tactic&quot;, armor and SPGs from Italeri, etc.) with small changes in rules (for example, +25% to all ranges)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the game remains playable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5791" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T19:08:21.887" Title="Flames of War with 1/72 miniatures" Tags="|flames-of-war|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10986" CreationDate="2014-01-17T04:24:07.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was a beta tester for a few of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlin.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;David Sirlin&lt;/a&gt;'s card games. Most of the beta testing was done online, in a combination of LackeyCCG and a very rough alpha web client for Yomi. I actually put some footage up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/user/SlebRittie&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;YouTube&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone brought up the objection that writing an online client is much harder than just designing the game. While it's true to an extent, you can cut a lot of corners if you're just testing. You don't need a lot of flair, or rules enforcement, or even &quot;something that isn't dog-ugly&quot;, and your early testers won't care because it's not a finished game anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T04:24:07.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14253" CreationDate="2014-01-17T04:34:47.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play table games like blackjack, I don't think you'd have any trouble (although since only a card counter would want to know other people's cards, don't expect any help there. ;)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Hold-'em poker, some seats are definitely better than others; the cards generally go right in front of the dealer, so if you can get the seat directly in front of the dealer you'd probably be fine, and you might be able to make do with the seats on either side of the dealer depending on how small the tables are. I suspect that in the worst case you could tell the floor that you can only play in the center seat, and see how well they can accommodate you. If the room's even halfway decent they'll try to take care of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T04:34:47.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14273" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-17T09:25:13.943" Score="12" ViewCount="1316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing white and I had one pawn at a7 and the other at a6. My opponent didn't let me promote the pawn to a Queen stating that when two pawns are in the same column then the pawn doesn't get promoted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? If so, then what happens to a pawn which reaches a8? Does that become useless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xrb6H.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6643" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-01-17T16:11:38.450" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:52:41.280" Title="Are there restrictions on pawn promotion if two pawns are on the same column?" Tags="|chess|end-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14273" CreationDate="2014-01-17T13:07:02.883" Score="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend was wrong.  There is no rule preventing a pawn from being promoted outside the normal move restriction rules (e.g. you can't leave your king in check).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T13:07:02.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2014-01-17T14:58:00.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you only consider a single fight on land, the perfect combination is int + art, 0 tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consider amphibious fights, tanks and infantry is best since you have to get more transports if you're going with inf+art. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But A&amp;amp;A is not about single fights, it's about winning the game and to do that you need success on both a tactical and strategical level. The main advantage of tanks and fighters is the ability to threaten a larger area, which can force your opponent into leaving troops where they don't do any good except defend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I typically buy about 3 inf to 1 art and 1 tank and perhaps half a plane. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6647" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T14:58:00.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14268" CreationDate="2014-01-17T15:38:31.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aqueous Form goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thassa's Emissary becomes unattached and remains on the battlefield. (Note that it remains an Aura.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.102e If an Aura with bestow is attached to an illegal object or player, it becomes unattached. This is an exception to rule 704.5n.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T15:38:31.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3746" CreationDate="2014-01-17T17:06:39.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of infantry in A&amp;amp;A has both offensive and defensive properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Offensively, they provide fodder to protect your more expensive units, and with a 16.6% chance of a hit, they are a nominal threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defensively, they are an inexpensive unit that provides a 33% chance of a hit, and will also block tanks from blitzing.  With such a skill, they will give the attacker a moment of pause to consider how many units he should throw at your stack of four infantry.  In this way, infantry of similar numbers are decidedly more defensive than offensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the attacker has an open door to blitz, he will zip through without concern.  If there is a single infantry in the second territory, he will, if wise, halt his advance, unless he wants to gamble on trading a tank for an infantry.  Two bucks is two bucks.  In addition, he might actually lose the battle (33% to 50%), so that gives the defender an extra turn to circle the wagons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing this about the infantry, an early push with infantry can bog things down due to hesitancy on the part of the Axis, but if he can also bring a number of infantry to absorb hits while his tanks and planes get their shots in, I think the Axis will have a decided advantage.  Also, if the Allies do not produce units with an effective punch, the Axis player will have no concerns about a viable counter-attack from the Allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A stack of infantry simply doesn't strike fear as an offensive weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastActivityDate="2014-01-17T17:06:39.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17985" CreationDate="2014-01-17T22:18:01.637" Score="6" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the My Little Pony Collectible Card Game &lt;a href=&quot;http://enter-play.com/products/MLP_CCG_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;official rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, it says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a card is &lt;em&gt;exhausted&lt;/em&gt;, it can't be involved in faceoffs or help you confront Problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This description is a little vague. Does this only mean that the character does not contribute its power to faceoffs and problems? Or do its static abilities also stop working? Do resources on exhausted characters do anything? How about exhausted resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, when a card is exhausted, does its text (or the text of attached resources) do anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T15:03:02.907" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:48:16.507" Title="What effects do exhausted cards have?" Tags="|my-little-pony-ccg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2014-01-17T22:19:38.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My biggest rule in two-player is: allow the players to trade levels that come from  defeating a monster, if they need help killing it. This helps with a lot of the stronger monsters in that you either try to run, or give a level to the other player for help. The level is worth a whole lot more then a shot at some treasure, so it can add a lot of incentive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6651" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T02:37:43.333" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T02:37:43.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14281" CreationDate="2014-01-18T03:37:39.010" Score="0" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=140200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt; is a creature (shapeshifter) with changeling (this card is every creature type at all times) that, for 2U, states &quot;Target Shapeshifter becomes a copy of target creature until your next turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes me wonder several things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Say you have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=191314&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coat of Arms&lt;/a&gt; in play. Coat of Arms says &quot;each creature gets +1/+1 for each other creature on the battlefield that shares at least one creature type with it&quot;. So let's say you have two Shapesharer's in play. Shapesharer A gets +1/+1 because it shares the sliver type with Shapesharer B, it gets +1/+1 because it shares the elf type with Shapesharer B, +1/+1 because it shares dragon type, etc. So it seems two Shapesharer's in play with a Coat of Arms could make each one have infinite power and toughness? Of course if that's the case than it seems like Shapesharer's would each also simultaneously be Legends and kill each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Say you cast a creature and that creature has summoning sickness. It seems like Shapesharer could copy that creature and that the summoning sickness wouldn't copy over so you could use that creatures abilities on the turn it was cast, albeit with a different creature. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does Shapesharer still retain the Changeling ability after it's copied another creature?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T04:23:48.880" Title="questions about shapesharer" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14280" CreationDate="2014-01-18T04:23:48.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No.  Coat of Arms says &quot;Each creature gets +1/+1 &lt;strong&gt;for each other creature&lt;/strong&gt; on the battlefield that shares at least one creature type with it&quot; — it counts the number of matching &lt;em&gt;creatures&lt;/em&gt;, not matching creature types.  If Creature A and Creature B share more than one creature type, each one is still a single creature, and they (indirectly) grant each other only +1/+1 through Coat of Arms.  (Also note that Legend hasn't been a creature type since 2004, so Shapesharers don't automatically kill each other.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, assuming that the Shapesharer itself doesn't have summoning sickness at the time of the copy.  Summoning sickness is determined only by how long a creature has been under a player's control, and turning one creature into a copy of another does not change who controls what.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No (unless of course it's copying another changeling).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T04:23:48.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14283" CreationDate="2014-01-18T10:09:22.293" Score="3" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ask this question because I don't know if we can enchant a guilgate, like a boros guildgate as example, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373521&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chained to the Rocks&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6653" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T13:59:48.757" Title="Is a Boros Guildgate considered a mountain?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14282" CreationDate="2014-01-18T10:35:12.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it is not. Mountain is a subtype of a land cards; for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Boros Guildgate&lt;/a&gt;, the subtype is &amp;quot;Gate&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steam%20Vents&quot;&gt;Steam Vents&lt;/a&gt; is a mountain and can be enchanted with Chained to the Rocks, because it has subtypes &amp;quot;Island&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T15:20:31.120" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T15:20:31.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14278" CreationDate="2014-01-18T11:42:25.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key term here is &lt;em&gt;involve&lt;/em&gt;. To resolve a faceoff or problem, characters must first be involved in it. An exausted card cannot be involved in a faceoff or problem (except if it is Stubborn) and this applies to resources too. A resource played on a exausted character will not take effect in the faceoff/problem if the character cannot be involved in the faceoff. Only the involved cards contribute to the resolution of a faceoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-18T17:22:07.720" LastActivityDate="2014-01-18T17:22:07.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-18T20:24:38.853" Score="3" ViewCount="1005" Body="&lt;p&gt;This afternoon, I played Ascension for the first time - and I played it solo, by simply dealing two decks and playing both players' turns. I had fun, and ultimately Ascension seems like a game where playing for more than one player isn't too much a conflict of interest - you can only do so much to influence the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It led me to a broader idea, and I'm bringing it here as a question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When a game doesn't have a predefined solitaire rule set, what's a good approach for designing a solo variant?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three biggest categories I can think of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;design an AI player who follows rules, and execute them on the AI's turn (see Race for the Galaxy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;design challenges which the solo player must overcome (see Merchant of Venus)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play as more than one player (as I did for Ascension today)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's a good set of criteria for a custom solo variant to a board or card game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T03:17:36.293" Title="Homegrown solo variants" Tags="|game-design|solitaire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14309" CreationDate="2014-01-18T21:02:59.153" Score="7" ViewCount="675" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Elder Sign against Yig, I ran into a question I couldn't quite puzzle out from the rules and FAQ. Yig's card reads &quot;Each time an investigator complets the task on a Cultist monster marker [...] the investigators lose 1 Elder Sign, if they have any.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, in itself, seems straightforward. However, if you use the &quot;Bind Monster&quot; spell (the card reads &quot;After rolling, discard to defeat 1 monster.&quot;) the cost of completing the monster task does not have to be paid, per the FAQ. Does this include the Elder Sign that would have to be discarded for Yig's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, do Ancient One effects count as &quot;costs&quot; to be paid when completing a monster task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6659" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T10:58:49.307" Title="In Elder Sign, does the &quot;Bind Monster&quot; card avoid an Ancient One effect?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14295" CreationDate="2014-01-18T23:27:20.370" Score="5" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does Puzzle Strike favor the player who goes first?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Puzzle Strike takes a lot of cues from Dominion, and Dominion is well-known for having a distinct advantage for the first player, as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13662/4773&quot;&gt;various other places&lt;/a&gt;.  However, Puzzle Strike also has a very different victory condition and a lot of back-and-forth &quot;combat&quot; that eventually determines it.  Does this fix the first-player-problem with its peers, and by how much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T21:03:09.650" Title="First-player advantage in Puzzle Strike?" Tags="|puzzle-strike|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12729" CreationDate="2014-01-19T02:13:11.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The implications in the game are that board boundaries are used by players for defensive purposes (corner and side enclosures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game usually starts with corner approaching moves because turns spent in the corner are more point efficient as they protect more territory with fewer moves (with the help of the board boundary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6661" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T02:13:11.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7627" CreationDate="2014-01-19T02:19:49.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Korean baduk servers (baduk = Go) have a bet system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6661" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T02:19:49.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-01-19T04:24:16.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to say I love using zombie/robot. You can cycle cards from your discard pile without to much of a sweat and can most turn play at least three minions of done right. The only issue is when you get to the last few cards in your deck but by then you should've pulled enough into the lead that it's not much of a problem. &#xA;Here's the score from my last three player game (15 point win)&#xA;Me: 17&#xA;Wifey: 7&#xA;Father-in-law:6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6663" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T04:24:16.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14290" CreationDate="2014-01-19T04:58:33.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Puzzle Strike is related to Dominion in its buy-new-chips mechanics, but its attack and defense mechanics are more strongly tied to Super Puzzle Fighter II Turbo, the video game without a prequel. Puzzle Fighter has much of the same dynamic as Puzzle Strike: the closer you are to losing, the more ammunition you're holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any hard numbers to back me up about any first-player advantage, but this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlin.net/articles/slippery-slope-and-perpetual-comeback.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article about slippery slope vs. perpetual comeback&lt;/a&gt; (written by someone involved in the creation of both Puzzle Strike and Puzzle Fighter) puts Puzzle Fighter firmly on the &quot;perpetual comeback&quot; side of the scale: being close to death is also being close to launching a huge attack on your opponent. Winning isn't about slowly wearing down your opponent and forcing them to jump on a slippery slope of &quot;losing = less resources&quot; (such as in an attack-heavy game of Dominion).  Instead, winning Puzzle Strike or Puzzle Fighter is about getting in the &lt;em&gt;last, largest&lt;/em&gt; attack. Going first isn't &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; irrelevant in that case, but winning is more about taking advantage of the current board state than buying cards one turn ahead of your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T21:03:09.650" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T21:03:09.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-19T05:10:59.337" Score="2" ViewCount="2339" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of potential cross country routes in Ticket to Ride USA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the northern route (via Canada, Vancouver to Montreal)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the mid northern route (Seattle-Helena-Duluth-Sault St. Marie)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the central route (SF-Salt Lake City-Denver-St. Louis etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the southern route (LA-El Paso-Houston-New Orleans-Miami)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are any of these cross-country routes definitively more or less advantageous? What about with the 1910 expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to phrase this is, based on an analysis of the available tickets and scoring, within the framework of a cross-country strategy, are any of the potential cross-country routes particularly advantageous over another? Or are they essentially equal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T20:05:19.793" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T04:55:49.207" Title="Best cross-country route in TTR USA?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2014-01-19T12:59:13.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;a 9x9 is a board that is set for a battle not a war. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;and that is ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a lot less centre area in a 9x9, which is good because there is no territory in the centre. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;I find a 9x9 takes 15 minutes to pay,&#xA;where as a 19x19 will take an hour or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 13x13 is a interesting compromise. A small war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6665" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:32:09.247" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:32:09.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-19T17:01:23.037" Score="1" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;If responder to a convenient minor 1 bid has 5 points or less I have been told the correct bid is 1 notrump.  Is a convenient minor 1 bid a demand bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6666" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-01-19T22:13:52.213" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T22:21:46.830" Title="Bidding response to convenient minor bid" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14300" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14301" CreationDate="2014-01-19T19:51:06.060" Score="2" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about this game for little people: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/134434/little-balancing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/134434/little-balancing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set is nice quality, it's fun and quick to play, and very collaborative without much strategy.  Along with the stems, lilies and frogs, the set includes a dozen dragonfly tokens.  But nowhere in the (small) rulebook or online can I find reference to how the dragonflies are used in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas?  What do you do with your dragonflies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6668" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:38:36.543" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:38:36.543" Title="What are the dragonflies used for in Little Balancing?" Tags="|little-balancing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14300" CreationDate="2014-01-19T23:57:42.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.djeco.com/medias/rule/GB/DJ08554_GB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt; on the publisher's site lists them as follows in the box's contents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;15 “point won” counters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other mention of them in the rules follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When all the elements have been placed on the platform, the game is won. Each player thus takes a “point won”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-01-19T23:57:42.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14299" CreationDate="2014-01-20T00:18:46.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would never respond 1NT to 1m with fewer than 5 HCP. with some partners, I only respond at the 1 level with sound values. With others, I'll respond 1 of a suit  with a weak hand whenever I lack 4-card support for their clubs or 3-card support for their diamonds. It's simply a matter of partnership preference; I don't think one way or the other is markedly superior; both leave you in trouble some of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point you and your partner should consider is whether you open strong 2-suiters with 2C or prefer to open 1 of your stringer suit and then jump-shift or reverse. If you sometimes open hands that nearly have game in hand 1m, you should respond with weak hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T00:18:46.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14282" CreationDate="2014-01-20T00:40:49.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot; can mean two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An object whose name is &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An object which has the land (sub)type &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steam%20Vents&quot;&gt;Steam Vents&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card refers to something that can be a name or a type, it always refers to the type&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. As such, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chained%20to%20the%20Rocks&quot;&gt;Chained to the Rocks&lt;/a&gt; looks for objects with the land type &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; does have that type. It can be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contaminated%20Ground&quot;&gt;Contaminated Ground&lt;/a&gt; does not have that type. It is a Land, it is a Basic, and it is a Swamp, but it is not a Mountain (despite having that for name). It cannot be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steam%20Vents&quot;&gt;Steam Vents&lt;/a&gt; does have that type. It can be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Boros Guildgate&lt;/a&gt; does not have that type. It is a Land, and it is a Gate, but it is not a Mountain. It cannot be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For references to permanents, this is covered by 109.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is understood to apply for references to non-permanents, though this is not explicitly stated in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T13:59:48.757" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T13:59:48.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14289" CreationDate="2014-01-20T03:08:56.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they count as effects, but in this case, you do not have to pay them. When you use Bind Monster (or the flute Unique item with the same effect) the monster is discarded, which is different from completing it's task. Because you did not complete it's task, you do not have to pay. This makes the spell very useful against  monsters with high or unusual costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My source for this info is the Elder Sign app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T03:08:56.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11024" CreationDate="2014-01-20T03:22:16.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got the game. Me and my friend (yes, only the two of us) played the game twice. We set up a 4-player game and took 2 houses each. We went by the rulebook and left out Martell and Tyrell. In the first game, we learned the rules and what-not. I chose Stark and Baratheon. I was a little late picking up, so my friend won using Lannister and Greyjoy. In the second game, I chose Baratheon and Lannister. I held off the middle part of the map thanks to Lannister while I conquered the neutral cities of Martell with Baratheon. That was a walk in the park.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 4-player game, I think the game is really unbalanced when you consider how it's so easy to stay away from the north and conquer south when you play as Baratheon. Of course, considering that Lannister stays away from you. And they will, because they have to deal with Greyjoy and Stark. It's a good thing I found these variations. When playing with 2 people, I can use Struggle in the North. That's very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6669" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T03:22:16.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14299" CreationDate="2014-01-20T04:53:49.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Convenient Minor as a forcing bid is a prohibited agreement in North America (ACBL Jurisdiction). To get caught regularly responding to it with less than 5 points will result in severe disciplinary action by the ACBL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not playing in North America, you must refer to the agreed conventions and agreements as per your national authority on the rules. In most countries such unusual agreements are typically prohibited except in extended team play competition, just as in North America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/Convention-Chart.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ACBL Convention Charts (pdf)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T22:21:46.830" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T22:21:46.830" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14308" CreationDate="2014-01-20T09:57:21.123" Score="3" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;In SmashUp game: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have a minion that gets extra power, like the war raptor who gets +1 for every other war raptor including himself: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the power score that you use to determine if the minion can be destroyed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's only one war raptor, it's total power is 3, while its base is 2. Then could the opponent destroy it with a card of 'destroy a minion of power 2 or less' ? or i would have to be power 3 or less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T10:32:29.277" Title="Destroying minions with extra power" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14307" CreationDate="2014-01-20T10:32:29.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the current modified stats, not the base stats printed on the card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, it would require a &amp;quot;Destroy a minions of power [3] or less&amp;quot; card. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/08/SU-FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: &amp;quot;Destroy a minions of power [X] or less.&amp;quot; Does [X] refer to a minion's base power (i.e. what's printed on the card) or the minion's current power?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: Current (i.e. modified) stats.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T10:32:29.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14289" CreationDate="2014-01-20T10:58:49.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it does not include the Elder Sign that must be lost per Yig's abiliy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; are not very clear on this matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Defeating Monsters with Items and Spells&lt;/strong&gt; - Some items or spells instruct the player to defeat a monster. When using such an item or casting such a spell, the player chooses any monster in play and flips its marker facedown, &lt;strong&gt;ignoring all of its tasks.&lt;/strong&gt; If the monster marker is in a partial monster task, the uncovered task requirements must still be satisfied in order to resolve the adventure. After either resolving or failing the adventure, &lt;strong&gt;the player collects the defeated monster marker&lt;/strong&gt; at the end of his Resolution phase. (page 17)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tasks are ignored (including costs), which might lead you to believe that Yig's Elder Sign loss wouldn't occur, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What do items mean when they say “defeat” a monster?&lt;/strong&gt; - When a player uses an item/spell that “defeats” a monster, that player chooses a monster in play (not necessarily at the same adventure his investigator is at) and turns that monster facedown. &lt;strong&gt;None of the monster’s costs must be paid&lt;/strong&gt; (such as advancing the clock or losing sanity/ stamina) and &lt;strong&gt;all of that monster’s tasks are considered to be completed.&lt;/strong&gt; The monster is collected as a trophy when the player’s turn ends (and not before), whether the investigator succeeds at the adventure or not. Note that if a monster is only partially covering a task, any uncovered parts of the task are still uncompleted for purposes of succeeding at the adventure. (page 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The operative words there are &quot;considered to be completed.&quot; Yig would trigger one time for each task on a Cultist monster defeated by &lt;strong&gt;Bind Monster&lt;/strong&gt;, causing the investigators to lose one (or more) Elder Signs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time an investigator &lt;strong&gt;completes&lt;/strong&gt; the task on a Cultist monster marker [...] the investigators lose 1 Elder Sign, if they have any.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T10:58:49.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14313" CreationDate="2014-01-20T13:16:33.893" Score="4" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=March%20of%20the%20Machines&quot;&gt;March of the Machines&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Warden&quot;&gt;Soul Warden&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, what happens when I cast a non-creature artifact like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Signet&quot;&gt;Azorius Signet&lt;/a&gt;? When exactly does the card type change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5808" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T22:46:08.273" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T22:46:08.273" Title="Do type-changing static abilities allow triggering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14296" CreationDate="2014-01-20T13:59:55.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The single biggest advantage, in terms of score, is a route containing 6-segment sections. Because of the way points scale, the points-per-car value of a a 6-segment connection is the highest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, it's important to weigh this against the increased difficulty of completing the section, because getting six cards of one color (when there are 12 in the deck) is not easy, even with the help of locomotive cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not a TTR expert by any means, but I would say it's very unlikely that any one route is definitively advantageous. In every game that I've played, the person who won had the most points from completed tickets with a fair distribution of 6-segment sections. In some games, it was one or two big East-West routes, but in others it's been a higher number of shorter routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I would suggest that there &lt;em&gt;is not&lt;/em&gt; a definitive best route in TTR USA, because success depends so heavily on completing tickets, playing sixes, and blocking opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T13:59:55.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-20T14:04:41.320" Score="3" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for raw tournaments result database/statistics, divided per format, date and including army distribution&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;something like this : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tabletoptournaments.net/t3_armies.php?gid=1&amp;amp;cid=0&amp;amp;latest=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tabletoptournaments.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but where I cand filter by date and format, and with complete data (here, there are 165 victories on 3967 armies.. a lot of draws!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does it exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thanks for helping me&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6670" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T13:35:33.633" Title="Warhammer Fantasy Tournaments Statistics" Tags="|statistics|tournament|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14310" CreationDate="2014-01-20T14:08:10.507" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soul Warden's ability will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means it's the types the Signet has on the battlefield that are checked by Soul Warden's triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.1. Static abilities do something all the time rather than being activated or triggered. They are written as statements, and they’re simply true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means there isn't a moment that a non-creature artifact on the battlefield is not affected by March of the Machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the Signet is seen as a creature by Soul Warden's triggered ability, and it will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-20T19:01:38.333" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T19:01:38.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-20T15:33:28.557" Score="2" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a hand like (s) KJT864 (h)Kxx (d) Ax (c) xx, I'd open one spade, that is, with 11 hc points and six spades. (Under the rule of 20, I have 11 hcps+ 6 spades + 3 cards in my second suit=20). And the T, behind the jack, is worth a good fraction of a point, so I really have &quot;11+,&quot; almost 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in today's bridge column, a declarer came to grief with a similar hand because his spades were KJ7653. Dummy bid NT trump with 42 of spades, and they ended up in a 4 spade contract, with the opponents' five spades (divided 4-1) being AQT98.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there either systems or individual experts that would subtract one point in bidding for the &quot;baby&quot; trumps (specifically no spots above an 8, the &quot;average&quot; card in the suit)? Or make other adjustments, positive or negative, for presence or absence of &quot;intermediate&quot; cards like 8, 9, T?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T04:51:56.117" Title="Are there any systems or experts that factor in &quot;intermediate&quot; cards in deciding when to bid?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14253" CreationDate="2014-01-20T21:44:31.113" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been generally true, but particularly since the passage of the Americans With Disabilities Act in 1990, that casinos will make &quot;reasonable efforts&quot; to accommodate the disabled. This is perhaps more true in the East Coast, which had a strong civil rights tradition going back to the 1970s (New Jersey casinos can't bar suspected &quot;card counters&quot; but they can shuffle up after them) than in the West (in Nevada, it's a felony to use a computer to play casino games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Reasonable efforts&quot; may consist of giving you good seats (either next to, or across from the house dealer), rather than at the ends. At the minimum, it would consist of the dealer announcing &quot;your cards&quot; (your two cards and his upcard in blackjack, the five &quot;board&quot; cards in holdem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some practice, you should be able to recall the three or five cards that have been &quot;announced&quot; to you in blackjack or holdem (have a practice session before each casino visit), and it will actually make you a better player. What little I have read on this subject in books suggests that most disabled players are &quot;above average&quot; after they overcome their initial handicap, because they're more sensitive to what else is going on. Also, opponents tend to underestimate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-01-20T21:44:31.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13952" CreationDate="2014-01-20T22:09:22.690" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most profitable time to attack France is when you have England as an ally. That's because you and England can launch &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4718/are-diagonal-attacks-more-deadly-in-diplomacy&quot;&gt;&quot;diagonal&quot; attacks&lt;/a&gt; on the Northwest-Southeast access. Germany isn't usually as good an ally, since it's relatively easy for France to build up an east-facing barrier in Marseilles, Burgundy, Picardy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to worry about France because it can get two supply centers, Spain and Portugal, versus one for you at Tunis, the first year. Fortunately, England, which gets only Norway, has the same fear. If England can't work something out with France (e.g., to concentrate on Germany), you're his natural ally. In this event, England will derail French expansion by e.g.: F Edinburgh to NS, F London to EC, A Liverpool to Wales, and possibly to Brest or Belgium in the fall of 1901.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So watch out for what England is doing, and be ready to respond in kind. It will take a while, but a successful campaign for you would be Portugal Spain and Marseilles, with England getting Brest, Paris, and Belgium. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For alternatives, I would recommend looking up the answers to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11/what-is-a-winning-strategy-for-italy-with-diplomacy&quot;&gt;question.&lt;/a&gt; I would guess that these occur the majority, perhaps two thirds of the time, and the above, one third.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T00:13:15.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14318" CreationDate="2014-01-21T02:11:40.567" Score="3" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say you can only use one Bang! per turn and one copy of each card can be out in front of you. Does this mean that I can still use two barrels or two Gatlings on my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6673" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T11:46:42.143" Title="In Bang!, can you use two beers?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14317" CreationDate="2014-01-21T03:06:23.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use multiple Gatlings or beers in a turn. These cards are not played in front of you, they are played directly into the discard pile. They are also not &quot;BANG!&quot; cards, so you can play more than one a turn (only the card &quot;BANG!&quot; is a &quot;BANG!&quot; card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot, however, use multiple barrels. You can only have one of each blue (or green) card in front of you at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T03:06:23.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14314" CreationDate="2014-01-21T04:51:56.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most accurate system I have seen for notrump bidding is a 5-4-3-2-1 count for the cards Ace through 10. This of course is a base 60 for the whole deck instead of 40, but can easily be normalized by doubling and dividing by three. (Round 2/3 up and 1/3 down.) With a little practice this is barely slower than the standard Work point count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not the assumption here of notrump - the Work 4-3-2-1 point count overvalues aces and kings for notrump play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this system is no better for suit play than the standard Work point count, it is perhaps no worse. Aces and Kings are undervalued as a disadvantage, but counting 10's for something is an advantage. One possibility for restoring the true value of Aces and Kings (in suit play) might be to add (Quick Tricks - 1.5) to the count above in that circumstance. (The 1.5 comes from the Quick Trick strength of an Ace and a King in separate suits, which is an &lt;em&gt;average&lt;/em&gt; holding.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T04:51:56.117" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14324" CreationDate="2014-01-21T09:06:44.683" Score="4" ViewCount="2245" Body="&lt;p&gt;In King of Tokyo, when a monster dies does the effects of shrink counters or poison counters placed by that monster still apply, or do those counters fall away with the eliminated monster ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6674" LastActivityDate="2020-07-03T21:29:47.190" Title="King of Tokyo, effects of cards after monster death" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14329" CreationDate="2014-01-21T10:47:02.163" Score="12" ViewCount="7898" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a copy of the resistance which my group of friends really enjoys. I noticed that there's a game called Avalon in my local games store and am not sure if it is the same game re-skinned, or if it brings something new. Is there any value in buying Avalon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T22:30:48.547" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:07:32.277" Title="Is Avalon worth getting if I already own The Resistance" Tags="|the-resistance|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14317" CreationDate="2014-01-21T11:46:42.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. Here's an extract from the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example. You have 2 life points left, and suffer 3 damages from a&#xA;  Dynamite. If you play 2 Beers you will stay alive with 1 life point&#xA;  left (2-3+2), while you would be eliminated playing only one Beer that&#xA;  would allow you to regain just 1 life point. You would still be at&#xA;  zero!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T11:46:42.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14320" CreationDate="2014-01-21T12:57:40.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no rules that say effects that originated from a monster go away once that particular monster has perished, so they persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than being logical it saves on bookkeeping too, otherwise you'd need to track who gave you which counter because powers can be stolen and multiple monsters may have given you a counter from the same power...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T12:57:40.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14321" CreationDate="2014-01-21T13:04:46.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though I have not played it yet, I have been told it has a new mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merlin is introduced and works in this way: He knows who the minions are and can introduce this knowledge into the game. It is important that he is subtle because if the minions can discover who he is they can win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1066460/enders-comprehensive-pictorial-overview-the-1-rank&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a really great review.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T16:39:23.870" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T16:39:23.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14312" CreationDate="2014-01-21T13:35:33.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rankingshq.com/default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rankings HQ&lt;/a&gt; is probably the closest you can get to what you are looking for.  There are a couple of disclaimers to add though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pool of ranked games is going to be pretty small. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ranking is elective, so there's going to be lots of missing data. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It won't track information about particular tournament formats, just the results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Torrent of Fire is a paid service that comes closer to what you want, but it's only for 40K.  I think they where planning on branching out to Fantasy. With Fantasy's declining popularity and GW's current financial implosions, I don't know if we'll see that happen any time soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T13:35:33.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14270" CreationDate="2014-01-21T14:03:10.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;15mm isn't actually 1/100 scale.  It's closer to 1/107.  You would actually need to increase all ranges and movement by about 49% for the scaling to work out. You would also need to increase your play area from the standard 6' x 4' to about 9' x 7.5'.  Otherwise your units would cross the board too quickly and mess with the scenario balance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base sizes become: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small 1.86&quot; x 1.49&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medium 2.98&quot; X 1.86&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Large 3.72&quot; X 2.98&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that, everything should be proportional and work out to be the same mechanically.  If you have a bad back, that table size could be problematic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you may run into cost issues collecting armies at that scale.  Plus you'll lose the ability for quick pickup games and tournament play.  There are a few new producers of 15mm miniatures such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plastic Solider Company&lt;/a&gt; that have moved to digital sculpting and injection plastic.  The detail on these models is much crisper than the hand sculpted models you are used to.  You may want to check those out before committing to using 1/72 scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stay at the larger scale, I suggest looking to a game like &lt;a href=&quot;http://us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/bolt-action&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bolt Action&lt;/a&gt; witch is designed for larger models(in this case 25mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-01-21T19:08:21.887" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T19:08:21.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14320" CreationDate="2014-01-21T15:24:15.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're not talking about an effect requiring ongoing effort (e.g. Killing Magneto would allow Wolverine to move again), we're talking about a permanent physical change (e.g. Killing a snake doesn't neutralized poison it previously injected into you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T15:24:15.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14321" CreationDate="2014-01-21T15:24:57.330" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several new mechanics brought in the game with Avalon. The major ones play around two new characters Merlin and The Assassin. Merlin allows the good side to have some knowledge of who is good/evil but on the flip side The Assassin allows for the evil side to turn a loss into a victory by figuring out who is Merlin. In addition to those two there are some characters that add some other flair into the game such as a good character who knows who Merlin is with the flip side of an evil character to pretends to be Merlin and a evil character who is unknown to the rest of his team. There are some other characters that where kick starter specific and not sure if you can still get them or not but are worth getting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall I think the changes to Avalon add a lot to the game and make it a little more interesting then the basic game of resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T15:24:57.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14296" CreationDate="2014-01-21T16:13:39.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Please note: This answer is predicated on the use of the 1910 expansion pack. The analysis for which tickets are available for which route will not be valid for the &quot;vanilla&quot; Ticket To Ride: USA game, but the other elements of analysis (which routes are easier to build, get more points for building the routes themselves) will still be of value.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a basic level, each of the four cross-country routes executes the same game plan: get across the country to connect as many high-value tickets as possible. There are of course other game plans, but if you wanted to use a cross country route, here is some advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ways to analyze our options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of turns it takes to build all of the lines (if it takes fewer turns to lay down the trains, then you can use more turns for picking trains, getting tickets, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The value of the trains for the lines (the actual value of building the trains themselves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number of trains it takes across the country (higher can be better because it helps get the longest train card, however lower can also be advantageous because you need to collect fewer train cards, and gives you more trains to do other building with)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The tickets that you can potentially complete using said route -- for example, if you can get Los Angeles to New York, you can get Los Angeles to Chicago relatively easily (but only if take the central route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want to prioritize, the routes will be appealing to different amounts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before attempting to analyze the routes, here are the routes themselves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern Route: Vancouver-Calgary-Winnipeg-Sault St. Marie-Montreal-New York (alternately, the so-called &quot;more southernly northern route&quot;: Vancouver-Calgary-Winnipeg-Sault St. Marie-&lt;strong&gt;Toronto-Pittsburgh-New York&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-Northern Route: Seattle-Helena-Duluth-Toronto-Pittsburgh-New York&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Central Route: San Francisco-Salt Lake City-Denver-Kansas City-Saint Louis- Pittsburgh-New York&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Southern Route: Los Angeles-El Paso-Houston-New Orleans-Miami&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Number of turns&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern route: 5 turns to build (vs. the &quot;southernly northern route&quot;: 6 turns)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-northern route: 5 turns to build&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Central route: 6 turns to build (via Chicago: 7 turns)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Southern route: 4 turns to build&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Value of trains&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern route: 51 points (vs. the &quot;southernly northern route&quot;: 43 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-northern route: 49 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Central route: 35 points (via Chicago: 31 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Southern route: 49 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Number of trains it takes to cross the country&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Northern route: 23 trains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mid-northern route: 22 trains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Central route: 21 trains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Southern route: 20 trains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets that can be completed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To assess this, we can see which tickets are &lt;em&gt;completed within the route itself&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. you don't have to do any additional work - if you get the route, you can get the ticket) and those which are &lt;em&gt;easily completed&lt;/em&gt; if you get the route (i.e. if you build a couple more times, you can get the ticket).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the question of which tickets &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be completed is predicated on which ones you actually get. So in a game with fewer players, of course you have a better chance of getting the specific tickets you want. You also have to be prepared to spend many turns taking tickets and hoping you get the right ones - which is why no strategy is foolproof. You can always just get the wrong tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Northern Route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets completed within the route itself:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver-Montreal (20 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets easily completed from off of the route:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle-New York (20 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver-Duluth (13 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver-Denver (11 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portland-Nashville (17 points, requires 4 extra routes -- yes, this one is a long shot -- unless you use the &quot;more southern&quot; option that goes through Toronto and Pittsburgh, in which case it only requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mid-northern route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets completed within the route itself:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle-New York (20 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets easily completed from off of the route:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portland-Pittsburgh (19 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver-Duluth (13 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denver-Pittsburgh (11 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chicago-New York (5 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver-Montreal (20 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle-Oklahoma City (14 points, requiers 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vancouver-Denver (11 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portland-Nashville (17 points, requires 3 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Central route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets completed within the route itself:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denver-Pittsburgh (11 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salt Lake City-Kansas City (7 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Denver-Saint Louis (6 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets easily completed from off of the route:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salt Lake City-Chicago (11 points, requires 1 extra route, unless you reroute through Chicago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chicago-New York (5 points, requires 1 extra route, unless you reroute through Chicago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;San Francisco-Washington (21 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Las Vegas-New York (19 points, requires 1 extra route)&#xA;8 Portland-Pittsburgh (11 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kansas City-Boston (7 points), requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle-New York (20 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;San Francisco-Atlanta (17 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Portland-Nashville (17 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;San Francisco-Atlanta (17 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chicago-Santa Fe (9 points, requires 2 extra routes, unless you rereoute through Chicago)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chicago-Boston (7 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles-Atlanta (15 points, requires 3 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seattle-Oklahoma City (14 points, requires 3 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Southern route&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tickets completed within the route itself:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles-Miami (19 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Tickets &lt;em&gt;easily completed from off of the route&lt;/em&gt;:*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Las Vegas-Miami (21 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles-Atlanta (15 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Los Angeles-Oklahoma City (9 points, requires 1 extra route)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;San Francisco-Atlanta (17 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;St. Louis-Miami (8 points, requires 2 extra routes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does this tell us?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Northern route&lt;/em&gt; via Montreal is perhaps the most out-of-the-way route: there are not a huge number of tickets to complete if you keep to the top of the board. However, if you compromise on using long trains only, and go Sault St. Marie-Toronto-Pittsburgh-New York instead of Sault St. Marie-Montreal-New-York, you have more potential tickets, because many tickets stop in Pittsburgh&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;mid-northern route&lt;/em&gt; completes very few tickets in and of itself. However, off of this route there are a great many &quot;high value&quot; tickets which can be completed. This also means that there isn't as much competition for it, both because it consists of so many 6-train routes (and none of them are gray!), and because relatively few tickets go to Helena, Duluth, or Toronto.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;central route&lt;/em&gt; has the most versatility, due to the fact that it is in the middle of the board and so you can build off of it in both northern and southern directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;southern route&lt;/em&gt; is perhaps most difficult to complete, because the Houston-New Orleans route can be taken easily, and is highly valuable. If you choose this route, take that quickly; but it may give away your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The southern route clearly has the highest route points per turn necessary to build the route, and can be built quickly. So the southern route works best in conjunction with another strategy, such as building up the east coast (which gives access to many other tickets such as Los Angeles-New York, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose the central route, going through Chicago will get you more potential tickets, but you will lose a turn and 4 points by building two routes (St. Louis-Chicago and Chicago-Pittsburgh) rather than the single St. Louis-Pittsburgh route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though it is the most versatile (and can be completed even if there is competition over it, due to the double-routes), the central route has a number of downsides. It takes many turns to build, which reduces the number of chances to take tickets - a central element to the basic strategy of trying to complete as many tickets off of your main route. In addition, it is worth far fewer points in and of itself. Especially if you go through Chicago, in which case you both lose a turn building, and there can be a 20 points difference between the central route and the northern route! It is also the most visible of the routes -- since it has so many double routes -- and so people gravitate towards it and it is highly contested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus there's the element of luck. You can't quite just pick a strategy and get the tickets you want. In many ways the appropriate strategy is based on the random tickets you get at the beginning if the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, the routes are very balanced - as one would expect from a game which exhibits such high replay value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-12-31T04:55:49.207" LastActivityDate="2017-12-31T04:55:49.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-21T22:47:22.727" Score="5" ViewCount="2501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nessian Demolok, one of the latest creatures revealed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/bornofthegods/cig&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Born of the Gods spoilers&lt;/a&gt;, reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tribute 3 &lt;em&gt;(As this creature enters the battlefield, an opponent of your choice may place three +1/+1 counters on it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Nessian Demolock enters the battlefield, if tribute wasn't paid, destroy target noncreature permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of this (and I presume this will be covered in the FAQ, but I figure it's good to get it 'on the record' here...) is that this would be covered by section 614 of the comprehensive rules, particularly sections 614.1c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read &amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,&amp;quot; or&#xA;&amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . &amp;quot; are replacement&#xA;effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and 614.12a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.12a If a replacement effect that modifies how a permanent enters the battlefield requires a choice, that choice is made before the&#xA;permanent enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that as a result, the choice whether to pay tribute or not is effectively made just before the creature enters the battlefield, and so in particular &lt;strong&gt;the choice of whether or not to pay tribute will be made before targets are chosen for the 'destroy target noncreature permanent' ability&lt;/strong&gt; (which goes on the stack the next time a player gains priority).  Does this look correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T14:00:45.700" Title="Creatures with Tribute and targeting" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2014-01-21T23:47:06.863" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this would be similar to Clone effects. Let's say you Clone a Nekrataal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Clone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clone resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As Clone comes into play, you choose Nekrataal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clone's triggered ability triggers and you choose a target for it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the logic changes when it's your opponent making the decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-21T23:47:06.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2014-01-22T00:04:02.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to get better at lying (at critical points) is to tell a few &quot;white lies&quot; at NON-critical points in the game, when there is apparently nothing to win or lose. If you can get away with lies at such times, it will be good practice for the critical time when your lie does matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get &quot;caught,&quot; all is not lost. Then the thing to do is to tell the TRUTH at a critical point in the game. Because if people now think you are lying, it would be a &quot;double&quot; double-cross.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T00:04:02.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14299" CreationDate="2014-01-22T00:39:20.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The permitted &quot;convenient minor&quot; forcing sequence is 1 club, pass, 1 diamond. In this case, the opener must have at least 10 high card points (hcp), if responder may have nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strong &quot;minor&quot; forcing sequence is 2 clubs, pass, 2 diamonds, where the opener has at least 22-24, and the responder might have &quot;nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides being prohibited, the sequence 1 diamond, pass, 1NT (with fewer than 5 hcp), doesn't work well because you skip two bids, hearts and spades, depriving both your team and your opponents of them. The ACBL frowns on sequences whose primary impact is to disrupt your opponents' bidding without helping your own cause (that is, sequences that hurt you some, and hurt your opponents more).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the club-bid, diamond-response sequences, the response didn't take up any additional bidding space. Because it takes up bidding space, the 1NT response to 1 diamond must be &quot;natural&quot; (typically 6-9 hcp, although 5 will be permitted), and reasonably balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T00:45:29.173" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T00:45:29.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-22T04:58:18.083" Score="9" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wellwisher&quot;&gt;Wellwisher&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: You gain 1 life for each Elf on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And my friend controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ballynock%20Trapper&quot;&gt;Ballynock Trapper&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Tap target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a white spell, you may untap Ballynock Trapper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is who has precedence? Is there any way I can get my effect off and not be interrupted by his effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I also control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seedborn%20Muse&quot;&gt;Seedborn Muse&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Untap all permanents you control during each other player's untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Would that change who has precedence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I get the feeling that at least on my turn I would be able to use my abilities before he can use his, am I wrong on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6677" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T19:08:34.150" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T19:08:34.150" Title="What tap effect has precedence?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14335" CreationDate="2014-01-22T05:00:18.123" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that no matter what your opponent does with their Trapper, they cannot prevent you from activating your Wellwisher and gaining the life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer involves explaining some of the key systems in the Magic rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic resolves spells and abilities using a system called &quot;the stack&quot;. When you cast a spell or ability, it goes on top of the stack, and then any player and put an instant or ability on the stack. Then once nobody puts anything else on the stack, the spells and abilities resolve from the top down. This allows player to respond to spells or abilities with other spells or abilities, and the response resolves first. More information can be found on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Stack&quot;&gt;relevant wiki page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic also has a particular meaning for the word &quot;priority&quot;, which is different from how you used it in the question. Basically, only one player gets &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;priority&lt;/a&gt; at a time, and each player gets priority before any spell or ability resolves, to give each player the opportunity to respond. You gain priority very frequently, including at the end of almost every step of each player's turn, whenever a spell or ability is put on the stack, and whenever a spell or ability resolves from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the situation is, either you have priority, or your opponent does. In the first case, the sequence of events looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate your Wellwisher's ability. This consists of the following steps (often condensed into one action):&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You announce that your are activating the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You tap Wellwisher to pay for the cost of the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability is now activated and on the stack. You pass priority. Your opponent now has the opportunity to respond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates their Trapper's ability. This has a similar sequence of actions:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They announce that they are activating the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They choose Wellwisher as the target of the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They tap their Trapper to pay for the cost of the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now the Wellwisher's ability is on the stack, and the Trapper's ability is on top of it on the stack. Both players pass priority (this is often assumed to be the case when neither player announces any responses).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Trapper's ability resolves, and it taps Wellwisher. Wellwisher is already tapped, so this doesn't do anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority again, and the Wellwisher's ability resolves. You gain a bunch of life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second case, where your opponent has priority, the sequence of events looks very similar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates his Trapper's ability, targeting Wellwisher and tapping the Trapper to pay the cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Trapper's ability is now on the stack and activated. Your opponent passes priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate your Wellwisher's ability, tapping Wellwisher to pay the cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now the Trapper's ability is on the stack, and the Wellwisher's ability is on top of it on the stack. Both players pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Wellwisher's ability resolves, and you gain a bunch of life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both player's pass priority again, and the Trapper's ability resolves, tapping Wellwisher. Wellwisher is already tapped, so this doesn't do anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it doesn't matter who activates their ability first. Either way, you can gain the life from Wellwisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T21:00:53.533" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T21:00:53.533" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14335" CreationDate="2014-01-22T06:08:53.257" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would in fact be able to activate Wellwisher's ability successfully on either player's turn. The Wellwisher would be untapped during your untap step; no player obtains priority during the Untap step. The next opportunity to activate abilities is during your Upkeep step. Because the active player has first priority, you can activate the Wellwisher then, paying its cost (tapping Wellwisher); your opponent cannot respond until &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; this has already occurred, while Wellwisher's ability is on the stack. At this point, Wellwisher's ability (on the stack) is essentially a separate entity, and the Trapper tapping Wellwisher has no effect upon the ability's resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your opponent's turn, this is no different. Seedborn Muse would untap your Wellwisher as expected; however, your opponent would receive first priority during the Upkeep step, as it is their turn. If they activate Ballynock Trapper's ability targeting your Wellwisher, then both players must gain and pass priority before the ability resolves. When this occurs, you can activate your Wellwisher's ability, which as a cost will tap itself and place the ability on the stack. The Wellwisher's ability will (unless otherwise prevented, by Azorious Guildmage, etc.) resolve, and then the Trapper's ability will resolve, tapping the Wellwisher to no effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/500&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/500&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, at some point, before anything can resolve which would destroy, tap, or otherwise affect your Wellwisher, you can activate the ability; after this, the ability on the stack is effectively independent of Wellwisher, and will not be prevented if Wellwisher is tapped or even destroyed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some exceptions to the previously stated rule -- for example, if it's your opponent's turn a Sudden Death targeting Wellwisher during their Upkeep would prevent Wellwisher from being able to activate its ability while Sudden Death is on the stack, and Wellwisher would be destroyed when Sudden Death resolved. On your turn, however, you could immediately activate Wellwisher's ability (as you have priority); after you pass priority, your opponent could respond with Sudden Death, which would almost certainly successfully kill Wellwisher, but the Wellwisher's ability would still be on the stack and would resolve as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My apologies for including this as a separate answer; if I could currently comment, my two cents would take the form of constructive criticism addressed at the excellent, but not yet perfected, answer by murgatroid99.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6337" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T10:56:01.010" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T10:56:01.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14339" CreationDate="2014-01-22T08:56:04.030" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Relic, this threat card says something along the lines of 'If you win, you may discard 1 corruption card. If you do not, gain 1 corruption card&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpreted this as if you win the battle, you have to discard one corruption card. If you choose not to (or if you have no corruption to discard), you must gain 1 corruption card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one of the players claimed that it meant if you lose the battle, you draw 1 corruption card (in addition to losing 1 life).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which interpretation is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T21:56:08.120" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T21:56:08.120" Title="Seeker of Slaanesh Threat Card Clarification" Tags="|relic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14338" CreationDate="2014-01-22T08:56:04.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card is not intended to include any extra &quot;loss&quot; effect. In other words, if you lose the battle you still just lose 1 Life like normal without taking any additional effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the statement of &quot;If you do not…&quot; in the &quot;win&quot; effect is in reference to whether or not you discarded a Corruption card from the first effect. If you have no Corruption cards to discard or choose not to discard one, you draw 1 Corruption card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T08:56:04.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-22T10:40:55.853" Score="11" ViewCount="7580" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once played a (somewhat crazy) game of Monopoly where there were too many players, so not enough properties to go around. I ended up with close to zero property but lots of cash. So I made an &quot;investment&quot; in another player. She had great properties (the dark greens) but very little cash; I gave her a couple thousand dollars to build with the agreement that I would get a certain percentage of all income from those properties (I believe it was a 50/50 split) and I would not need to pay if I landed on one of the properties in question. Is this a legal deal? We considered it a form of trading -- I gave her money and in return I would get money in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastActivityDate="2020-04-01T20:34:38.007" Title="&quot;Investing&quot; in other players in Monopoly" Tags="|house-rules|monopoly|trading|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14331" CreationDate="2014-01-22T13:46:06.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of placing the counters happens before Nessian Demolok enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ” are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.12a If a replacement effect that modifies how a permanent enters the battlefield requires a choice, that choice is made before the permanent enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability is only placed on the stack after Nessian Demolok enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's even implied by the card itself; &amp;quot;wasn't paid&amp;quot; is past tense. In fact, the triggered ability won't trigger at all if tribute was paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].” When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the “intervening ‘if’ clause” rule. (The word “if” has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an “if” that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you cast Nessian Demolok when you have priority. This is the order in which things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The choice of whether to pay tribute is made.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card (or copy thereof) is placed on the battlefield (with or without counters).&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If and if only tribute wasn't paid, the second ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediately after the casting ends, if the ability triggered, the triggered ability is placed on the stack.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targets are chosen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T14:00:45.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14343" CreationDate="2014-01-22T14:06:56.600" Score="3" ViewCount="848" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forthcoming Nessian Demolok has the following abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tribute 3 &lt;em&gt;(As this creature enters the battlefield, an opponent of your choice may place three +1/+1 counters on it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Nessian Demolock enters the battlefield, if tribute wasn't paid, destroy target noncreature permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the reminder text is complete and accurate, what happens if you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; choosing a Nessian Demolok? Specifically, does your opponent get a chance to pay tribute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the letter of the rules, choices for &amp;quot;As this permanent enters the battlefield&amp;quot; occur before the permanent the battlefield&lt;sup&gt;[CR 614.12a]&lt;/sup&gt;, but doesn't Clone's replacement effect happens at the point it enters the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-22T15:07:30.427" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T15:07:30.427" Title="Cloning a card with Tribute" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14342" CreationDate="2014-01-22T14:13:14.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your opponent gets a chance to pay the Tribute. From the Clone rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any enters-the-battlefield abilities of the copied creature will trigger when Clone enters the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;Any &quot;as [this creature] enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; or &quot;[this creature] enters the battlefield with&quot; abilities of the chosen creature will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same behavior as when you Clone a Triskelion; the Clone will get 3 +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T14:13:14.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14349" CreationDate="2014-01-22T15:03:26.123" Score="3" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creeper attached to an investigator, does that still prevent me from winning?  I understand that having a lone creeper in front of you prevents you from winning---unless the goal says otherwise---but what if it’s attached to an investigator that is needed to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if you attach a creeper to a keeper that removes the keepers special powers, but does it also strip the keeper of being a playable card?  I find that the Cthulhu Fluxx deck is stacked with creepers but not nearly enough cards and abilities to discard those creepers.  Thanks for the clarification!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6682" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T20:58:15.367" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T20:58:15.367" Title="What are the rules with attached creepers in Cthulhu Fluxx?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14346" CreationDate="2014-01-22T15:04:03.547" Score="4" ViewCount="1301" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often read on the internet people referring to Chronicles expansion as a disaster, the worst mistake ever made by Wizards, the biggest drop value in Magic's history.. but nobody explains what happened!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understood that Chronicles was the reprint of some cards the first four expansions (that went sold out in a really short amount of time) excluding some of the most powerful cards, but I miss how this has led to 70% drop in cards' value, sellers leaving their job, people not trusting Wizards anymore and finally to the Reserved List. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody explain me what happened and what made Modern Masters different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T21:42:37.723" Title="What happened with Chronicles?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|expansions|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14345" CreationDate="2014-01-22T15:48:10.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is that wizards printed a whole lot of chronicles, and they sold it cheaper than normal packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result was a massive market flood of cards, some of which actually were somewhat valuable. compare the prices of  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nicol%20Bolas&quot;&gt;Nicol Bolas&lt;/a&gt; to other obscure legends that weren't printed in chronicles like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angus%20Mackenzie&quot;&gt;Angus Mackenzie&lt;/a&gt;, to see how chronicles affected it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The value of people's collections dropped drastically, and people don't like it when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern masters was different because wizards charged &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; for them and they purposefully printed a very limited run of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you wanted to get modern masters for MSRP, you had to already know that it was coming.  Stores that sold them at MSRP sold out in less than a day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T15:48:10.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14345" CreationDate="2014-01-22T15:49:31.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest problem with &lt;em&gt;Chronicles&lt;/em&gt; was overprinting. The set was in-print from August 1995 to December 1996. As can be seen with other individual cards, reprints drive the prices down, and the more copies of a card exist, the lower the price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between &lt;em&gt;Chronicles&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Modern Masters&lt;/em&gt; is quantity. &lt;em&gt;Chronicles&lt;/em&gt; was in-print for over a year, and printed in vast quantities ostensibly to meet demand. I do not believe &lt;em&gt;Modern Masters&lt;/em&gt; is out of print yet (although it's only been out for ~8 months), but it's a small print run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T15:49:31.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14340" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:30:21.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you are technically allowed to make such a deal, due to the fact that trading allows you to give another player money; there is nothing in the rules that would enforce your opponent to keep her end of the deal. If you later landed on the property in question, she would be fully within her rights within the rules to ask you to pay, and you would have to pay according to the rules. Similarly, if she makes money from someone else on that property, there is no rule that requires her to give you part of that money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you fully trust her to do what she says in the future, you would be allowed within the rules to do  this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:30:21.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14344" CreationDate="2014-01-22T16:49:49.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot win with a creeper out, even if it is attached to an investigator, unless that creeper is a condition of the victory (such as the Insane Nightmares goal)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this image taken from &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvoXt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gvoXt.jpg&lt;/a&gt; for the card text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dj1sg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T16:49:49.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13309" CreationDate="2014-01-22T20:48:44.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jason C. Hall the designer of Last Night on Earth was on BoardGameGeek.com and said this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/1730957#1730957&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/1730957#1730957&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;We have yet to see this happen, but it would be pretty sweet!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would say that an exploding Gas Marker should have the chance to set off adjacent Gas Markers on the roll of 3+ (or auto if in the same space).  Everybody loves a big explosion.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;-Jason&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6682" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T20:48:44.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14351" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-22T21:12:35.697" Score="3" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Power Grid China/Korea and was wondering if there was anything (besides for the two markets on the Korea side of the board) I should look for strategy-wise that is different from the base game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6483" LastEditorUserId="6483" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T16:51:58.370" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T19:44:07.403" Title="Power Grid China/Korea strategy - is it any different from the base game?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14345" CreationDate="2014-01-22T21:42:37.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/218&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;horse's mouth&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A glance at print run numbers available in the public domain shows that Chronicles likely increased the number of some cards in existence by a factor of ten or more! Cards that were rare and highly collectible were suddenly ubiquitous. The error was one of scale...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read: market prices for a lot of cards crashed out of nowhere and devauled a lot of people's collections. The mistake wasn't so much financial as it was ticking off the fanbase. Wizards then felt the need to create the Reserved List to placate those people (thus causing the card availability problems that plague Eternal formats to this day)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-22T21:42:37.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14340" CreationDate="2014-01-23T02:01:59.483" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;Official Monopoly Rules&lt;/a&gt; by Hasbro (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MISCELLANEOUS&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Money can be loaned to a player &lt;strong&gt;only by the Bank&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  and then only by mortgaging property. &lt;strong&gt;No player may borrow from or&#xA;  lend money to another player&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any exchange of money for future considerations is a form of &lt;em&gt;loan&lt;/em&gt;, so by the official monopoly rules your actions are illegal. One is always allowed to invent a new game based on an existing one, through the use of common agreement on house rules, but one cannot then meaningfully call it by the name &lt;strong&gt;Monopoly&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T02:01:59.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14360" CreationDate="2014-01-23T02:34:29.487" Score="3" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been some changes to the way Close combat weapons work for Tyranids.  The rule used to be, that Scything talons were the only CC weapon that would give a +1 Attack bonus.  Now it applies to all Tyranid CC weapons, but only when 2 pairs are used (basically a shift of where +1 attack bonuses will be in the Tyranid army for the CC Monstrous Creatures, and medium sized models with 4 arms)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Previously, the attacks were already reflected in Tyranid profiles.  I am wondering, with a new rule change, if this is still true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is NOT reflected, then that would mean the Death Leaper is actually 5 attacks, and the Carnifex is actually 4 attacks using their basic set of weapons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T14:36:09.033" Title="In the new Tyranid Codex (6th Edition) is the Close Combat Weapons bonus included in Unit profiles?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14356" CreationDate="2014-01-23T06:18:59.350" Score="8" ViewCount="19051" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Endurance&quot;&gt;Archetype of Endurance&lt;/a&gt; (from Born of the Gods) is a card that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures you control have hexproof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures your opponents control lose hexproof and can't have or gain hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both I and my opponent have one of these in play, then there is one effect that says that my creatures have hexproof, and one that says that they lose hexproof and can't have it. Which effect takes precedence? Does it depend on what order the two creatures came into play? Basically, which creatures, if any, have hexproof while both are in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T03:33:46.490" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T03:52:35.883" Title="What happens if each player has a copy of the same Archetype?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14355" CreationDate="2014-01-23T06:18:59.350" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as both Archetypes are in play, &lt;strong&gt;no creatures have hexproof&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important rule to take into account here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 112.11&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects can stop an object from having a specified ability. These effects say that the object &amp;quot;can't have&amp;quot; that ability. If the object has that ability, it loses it. It's also impossible for an effect to add that ability to the object. If a resolving spell or ability tries to create a continuous effect that would add the specified ability to such an object, that continuous effect is not created, although that resolving spell or ability can still create other continuous effects. Continuous effects created by static abilities that would add the specified ability won't apply to that object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works with rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;101.2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &amp;quot;can't&amp;quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that each Archetype says that its controller's opponents' creatures lose hexproof and can't gain hexproof, and that removes hexproof from those creatures and overrides any ability that would give them hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we want to look at exactly how these abilities interact, then we need to consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 613: Interaction of Continuous Effects&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1:&lt;/strong&gt; The values of an object's characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object... Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1f:&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 6: Ability-adding effects, ability-removing effects, and effects that say an object can't have an ability are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.2:&lt;/strong&gt; Within layers 1-6, apply effects from characteristic-defining abilities first, then all other effects in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effects created by Archetypes' abilities are not characteristic-defining abilities (according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Static_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 604.3&lt;/a&gt;), so they are applied in timestamp order (i.e. the order in which they entered the battlefield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Player A is the player whose Archetype of Endurance entered first, then the effects are applied in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player A's Archetype's first ability. Creatures controlled by Player A have hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player A's Archetype's second ability. Creatures controlled by Player B all lose hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player B's Archetype's first ability. Creatures controlled by Player B would gain hexproof, but the previous ability prevents that from happening (due to the previously mentioned rule 101.2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player B's Archetype's second ability. Creatures controlled by Player A lose hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result is that none of the creatures on the battlefield have hexproof. Note that this process of applying effects does not happen at a particular time during the game. Rather, if at any time you want to determine whether a creature has hexproof, this process gives you the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T02:51:15.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14358" CreationDate="2014-01-23T09:07:57.757" Score="2" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perplexing%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Perplexing Chimera&lt;/a&gt; is a newly spoiled card with the rules text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever an opponent casts a spell, you may exchange control of&#xA;Perplexing Chimera and that spell. If you do, you may choose new&#xA;targets for the spell. (If the spell becomes a permanent, you control&#xA;that permanent.)&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player exchanges control of Perplexing Chimera with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tendrils%20of%20Agony&quot;&gt;Tendrils of Agony&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grapeshot&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt;, who controls the storm copies?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T15:42:47.277" Title="What happens if Perplexing Chimera is used on a Storm spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14357" CreationDate="2014-01-23T09:48:26.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The player who cast the Stormy spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two scenarios :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob is Chimera's controller, Alice casts a spell with Storm ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. It's Bob's turn when Alice casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=166129&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brain Freeze&lt;/a&gt;. Active player's triggered abilities go on the stack first (thanks to the rule 101.4 known as &quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&quot;), then do his Alice's. So Storm is resolved first, Alice is still the spell's controller at that time so she gets the copies, and Chimera's ability resolves and Bob get the original Brain Freeze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. It's Alice's turn and she casts Grapeshot. Storm triggered ability is placed on the stack, Alice controls the ability while it's on the stack, and then Chimera's ability is placed on the stack. Chimera's ability resolves, Bob get the control of the original Grapheshot, but the Storm ability is already on the stack, and is still controlled by Alice, so she gets the copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR :&lt;/strong&gt; you can't resolve Chimera's ability before Storm goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5808" LastEditorUserId="5808" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T15:42:47.277" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T15:42:47.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14377" CreationDate="2014-01-23T11:16:42.563" Score="5" ViewCount="761" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stimhack&lt;/a&gt; gives me 9 credits that I have to spend during a run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03038&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clone Chip&lt;/a&gt; allow me to install programs during a run. I can obviously use my Stimhack credits to pay for these programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, let's say I'd like to save my money for trashing cards in a server: &lt;strong&gt;Once I've accessed and trashed cards, is it too late to then spend what I have left using Clone Chip or similar?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that Clone Chip (etc.) requires a paid ability window to install a program. There doesn't appear to be such a window between accessing cards and ending the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I forced to spend &quot;spare&quot; credits prior to accessing and guess how much I need to keep to pay for trashing, losing any that still remains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example to explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Stimhack into a remote server. I break the only piece of ICE, leaving me with 6 Stimhack credits left. I suspect the only card in the server is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01092&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SanSan City Grid&lt;/a&gt; which I'd like to trash (and which would cost 5 to do so). I access the card and see that it's actually a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01091&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Herrings&lt;/a&gt; and I trash it for one credit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Option A: I still have 5 credits left so I spend them to install Crypsis from my heap using Clone Chip (rather than lose the 5 credits). Then the run ends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Option B: My 5 credits are lost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T17:07:30.580" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T21:09:17.403" Title="Can I spend Stimhack credits after accessing cards?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14354" CreationDate="2014-01-23T11:28:07.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It used to be that this was reflected by the use of parentheses, e.g. 3(4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/40k-rules-help/205638-special-characters-multiple-close-combat-weapons.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This forum post&lt;/a&gt; talks about this(although not in relation to the models you mentioned). The consensus seems to be that if it is not explicitly stated that it is factored into the profile, then it's in addition to the profile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T11:28:07.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14367" CreationDate="2014-01-23T12:39:18.293" Score="2" ViewCount="1532" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can read in the manual that the active player plays first whenever there's a decision about who first resolves an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in this case, what if many players have MULTIPLE cards that can be played? That is with the description 'play before a base scores'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would each player have to play all the cards he wishes to play? Or could he play one, wait for others to decide what to play and then play the next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happened to me with I think the Cthulu faction, there's a minion that lets you draw a madness card for extra power; if you have played several it makes a huge diference since waiting for other players is what decides how many madness cards you'd get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:47:15.573" Title="Play before a base score: deciding the order" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5959" CreationDate="2014-01-23T14:31:35.360" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with all the above comments.  Duplicate Bridge is all about bidding and achieving the best possible result from a hand.  There are situations where passing (not playing a hand) is more prudent than risking a bid and going down.  So, therefore, a passed out hand in my club gets a marginally higher score than zero. On the traveler, we record 1 point in both the north/south and east/west score.  The matchpoints will then indicate that a &quot;1 score&quot; beats a &quot;0 score&quot;. I know this is not the way it is done in competition but it works for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6689" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T14:31:35.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14366" CreationDate="2014-01-23T15:27:49.677" Score="6" ViewCount="1457" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of interest in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/an/en/84.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bazaar of Baghdad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}: Draw two cards, then discard three cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how powerful this card is in a Dredge deck in Vintage and thus why it's banned in Legacy, but since the Dredge mechanic has been introduced in the Ravnica block in 2005 and Bazaar is a card printed in 1993 in Arabian Nights: what was the purpose of that land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose there must have been another use other than &quot;create a card disadvantage for me&quot; (even &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/sok/en/84.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One with Nothing&lt;/a&gt; had one!), so I'm wondering how and how much was Bazaar used in those twelve years and if its price has risen so much only after Ravnica: City of Guilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T16:44:49.970" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:44:49.970" Title="What is the original purpose of Bazaar of Baghdad?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14363" CreationDate="2014-01-23T16:12:59.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get to draw two cards. This (at the time of printing) was 5% of your deck. At worst case, the two you drew were not as good as what you had in your hand and you will get rid of them, and chances also are that you had one card you would be willing to get rid of, or at least would be worth the risk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get to discard AFTER drawing the two cards. If the two cards you drew were crap, you don't have to keep them. It would be much worse if it was &lt;code&gt;{t}, discard three cards: draw two cards&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to draw the cards you drew later. Key to the design of magic is the ability to make a comeback win, and this comeback typically comes with a top-deck bomb. Sometimes there's only one or two cards in your deck that can allow you to win, and the rest of your cards are just to keep you alive until this bomb gets on the board. So in that sense, this card could be &lt;code&gt;{t}: draw two cards, then discard cards from your hand until you have one card left in hand.&lt;/code&gt; and it would probably still be sought after for that purpose. (Actually, the dredge crowd would salivate over this card even more if it did that...)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:12:59.410" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14363" CreationDate="2014-01-23T16:14:19.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bazaar of Baghdad was designed as part of the Arabian Nights set, this was a very flavor driven set with many cards designed around characters from the 1001 Arabian Nights stories, and others from general Arabian history or legend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bazaar of Baghdad obviously follows in this flavor, and the mechanics of the card attempt to evoke a feeling of getting something you want, at a price. It was designed to give card selection: at the cost of 1 card (and obviously a one-time cost of one land drop), you could trade your 3 worst cards for 2 others. In a world of massively high-powered cards amongst dross, this would be a hugely important effect. For decks aiming to build up a combo of 2 or 3 cards, often all other cards in the deck can safely be discarded while searching for the remaining pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card was one of the first attempts at giving players a way to trade bad cards for better ones. Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Faithless%20Looting&quot;&gt;Faithless Looting&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Careful%20Study&quot;&gt;Careful Study&lt;/a&gt; are more recently printed cards with a very similar tradeoff (3 cards in hand for 2 new cards) as a single use, both have seen use in legacy dredge lists, as well as some other archetypes (reanimator and other graveyard strategies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't answer for how (if at all) it was used before Ravnica block, or what decks played it, or what happened with it in the years leading up to the printing of the dredge mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T16:43:26.403" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:43:26.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14361" CreationDate="2014-01-23T16:47:15.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rule book : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Me First! If more than one player wants to use a Special  ability,&#xA;  start with the current player and go  around the table clockwise until&#xA;  all players pass in  sequence (if you pass and another player uses a &#xA;  Special, you can then still choose to use a Special  of your own). If&#xA;  your Special allows you to play  extra cards, you must play those&#xA;  immediately or  not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So each player may play one card until everyone is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T16:47:15.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8067" CreationDate="2014-01-23T17:45:12.320" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any other skill, practice makes perfect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Learn from your mistakes and learn from your successes. Learn from other players who have fooled you into believing their lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6224" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T17:45:12.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="490" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:06:22.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought it was worth adding an update to this that I ended up using a free Android app for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.schwider.multiplayertimer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.schwider.multiplayertimer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works very well, and is able to switch to time whoever the phone is pointed at by using the phone's compass. It also calls out the name of whoever's turn it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T18:06:22.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:20:01.027" Score="5" ViewCount="23567" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Sorry! if I have the fire token, and I advance to the next corner fire slot before drawing my card, do you bump somebody else back to start who is on the fire slot before drawing the card?  My thought is no, but I wanted to get another opinion.  My wife and I argued for about an hour on this.  We need a mediator...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6691" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T18:22:03.987" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T19:12:42.393" Title="Sorry! Fire Token Bumping Rule" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14375" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:22:00.443" Score="3" ViewCount="2449" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a card like Profit and Loss you get the Fuse special rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t6mVD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a little unclear how it works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have to cast both sides in the same turn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't can you cast one of the spells twice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you discard the card after only playing one of the spells?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T00:00:08.700" Title="How does Fuse work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14374" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:25:27.333" Score="0" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question about the rules on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadowborn%20Demon&quot;&gt;Shadowborn Demon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Shadowborn Demon enters the battlefield, destroy target non-Demon creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, if there are fewer than six creature cards in your graveyard, sacrifice a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, I understand that you have to destroy a creature (even if it's your own), what if there are no other non-demon creatures out? Can you play the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Shadowborn Demon is the only card on your side and you don't have six or more creatures in your graveyard do you have to sacrifice it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T18:29:49.110" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T18:35:08.820" Title="How does Shadowborn Demon work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14372" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:29:39.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) You can still play the card if there are no non-Demons.  In that case, the enters-the-battlefield ability simply won't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Yes, you have to sacrifice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T18:29:39.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14372" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:29:42.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play the card even if there are no non-Demon creatures. The &quot;When Shadowborn Demon enters the battlefield&quot; ability is a triggered ability, it doesn't happen until after the Demon is finished being cast and resolves. Once it does, if there are no legal targets, then the triggered will be removed from the stack immediately after being added; it won't even try to resolve&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.3d]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your second question, yes, you would be forced to sacrifice the Demon if there are no other creatures to sacrifice. The &quot;Sacrifice a creature&quot; is not optional, it is an ability that is triggered at the beginning of your upkeep. So long as you don't have 6 or more creature cards in your graveyard, you must sacrifice a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T18:35:08.820" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T18:35:08.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:37:50.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter how you cast a Fuse spell, you're still casting the card as a single spell, and all the normal parts of casting a spell still happen. You pay mana, put it on the stack, it resolves, and it goes to your graveyard. You just get to choose as you cast it whether you're going to cast one of the sides or both. If you cast both sides, you're casting them together as a single spell all at once, not as two separate spells at two different times. Think of it as a spell that has three possibilities for its cost and effect(s): the left side, the right side, or both sides. But no matter what it's still one card, one spell. So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, you don't have to cast both - the reminder text says &amp;quot;you may cast one or both&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, you can't cast one of them twice - the card doesn't say you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The card goes to your graveyard after you're done, whether you cast both sides or just one. (You're not discarding it, though. You're putting it from your hand onto the stack, it resolves, and moves to your graveyard. &amp;quot;Discard&amp;quot; in Magic means specifically hand to graveyard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you were confused by the fact that it says &amp;quot;...from your hand&amp;quot; in the reminder text, making you think that you could somehow cast just one part of it out of your hand, leaving the other part there. But the reason it says &amp;quot;from your hand&amp;quot; is to clarify that you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; do this special Fuse thing when the card's somewhere else, for example if it's in your graveyard and has been given Flashback by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt;. (In that case, since Fuse doesn't apply, it acts like a normal split card - you can flash back either half, for its mana cost, ignoring the other half.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more descriptions of how Fuse works, see its section in the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/242#1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Dragon's Maze&lt;/a&gt; article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T18:38:33.590" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T18:38:33.590" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14371" CreationDate="2014-01-23T18:38:45.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell with fuse, you have three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cast the left half for its cost&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cast the right half for its cost&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cast both halves for both costs&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing any one of these options causes the entire card to go on the stack and then (unless an effect says otherwise) to go to the graveyard after it resolves.  As with a normal spell, while the spell is on the stack, regardless of which option you chose, you can't cast any part of the spell again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you discard the card after only playing one of the spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Discarding&quot; refers only to moving a card from your hand directly to the graveyard without playing it, and you can only do that when a cost or effect demands or allows it.  If you're referring to the act of placing an instant or sorcery into a graveyard after it resolves, that is not discarding; that is simply the last step in resolving an instant or sorcery.  Regardless of how many parts of a fuse card you use, the entire card is still cast and &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; (not &quot;can&quot;) be placed into the graveyard upon resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T18:38:45.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14359" CreationDate="2014-01-23T21:02:56.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the run sequence on the back page manual, a run includes &quot;Access Cards&quot;, so obviously, one can use the credits from stimhack to trash any accessed cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, for the Clone Chip part of the question: this is a Paid Ability, so you need a paid abilities window (the green arrow on the path charts) to use the chip.  If you look at the Revised Run structure in the FAQ (last page, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), you will notice that the last Paid Abilities window is 4.3,  which is after passing the last piece of ICE but before any cards are accessed.  So, in your situation, you would not be able to install Crypsis and the 5 credits would be lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2014-01-23T21:09:17.403" LastActivityDate="2014-01-23T21:09:17.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14381" CreationDate="2014-01-24T01:52:23.413" Score="5" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;If some units rout and are able to retreat in to a territory that has an unoccupied castle or stronghold, does that castle count as captured immediately? Or do you need to wait until the next turn when the routed units are able to 'stand up' again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that on the final turn (i.e. no chance for routed units to stand), this ruling can have an effect on the number of castles and hence, who wins the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T04:19:46.087" Title="When do routed units capture a castle/stronghold" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14380" CreationDate="2014-01-24T02:22:47.537" Score="2" ViewCount="2162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am considering creating a deck which utilizes a strange combo if it can be done.  It uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; in combination with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Awaken%20the%20Ancient&quot;&gt;Awaken the Ancient&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make it so that when my land, which is a 7/7 giant with haste (that's still a land), is sent to the graveyard I can copy it with Mimic Vat's imprint ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to do this? (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Awaken%20the%20Ancient&quot;&gt;Awaken the Ancient&lt;/a&gt;'s is sent to the graveyard separately, and it's ability is what is making the Mountain a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When Mimic Vat creates the token copy, will it be a 7/7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6695" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T04:50:47.350" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T00:27:40.150" Title="Is it possible to copy a land with Mimic Vat that is turned into creature by an enchantment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14379" CreationDate="2014-01-24T02:29:37.770" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a non-creature card such as a land is put into a graveyard from play and it is a creature when it dies, you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; use Mimic Vat to exile it, and create tokens later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do this, you will create tokens of the &lt;strong&gt;card&lt;/strong&gt; that was exiled, Mountain, &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the creature that it was when it died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the rulings on the Gatherer page says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may exile a noncreature card with Mimic Vat's first ability. For example, if a nontoken artifact that's become a creature is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, Mimic Vat's first ability triggers and you may exile that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to whether the triggered ability will still trigger, even though Awaken the Ancient stops enchanting the Mountain when it dies, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;rule 603.6d&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities... will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that since the Mountain was still a creature &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it left the battlefield (and caused the Aura to become unattached), it does trigger Mimic Vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T03:05:10.937" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T03:05:10.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14378" CreationDate="2014-01-24T02:34:48.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, even routed units immediately control the areas they occupy.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FFG rule book&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Controlling Areas&lt;/strong&gt; - A House is said to control a land area when it has at least one Footman, Knight, or Siege Engine in the area, or has previously established control in that area by placing a Power token there (see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T04:19:46.087" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T04:19:46.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14379" CreationDate="2014-01-24T03:21:45.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a nontoken land that somehow became a creature starts heading to the graveyard, Mimic Vat's first ability triggers and you may choose to exile that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may activate Mimic Vat's second ability to put out a copy of a mountain that you exiled. The result will be a Mountain with haste. The Mountain may have been a 7/7 in a previous life, but &lt;strong&gt;Cards that change zones forget they ever existed anywhere else.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And not that it makes a difference, but type-changing effects are not copiable anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.2. ... Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T03:21:45.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14384" CreationDate="2014-01-24T04:17:06.730" Score="7" ViewCount="1684" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I place an agent in Waterdeep Harbor, complete a quest, and later, after all players have finished, place my agent on another space and complete a second quest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this strategy, a player could potentially complete six (or eight) quests in a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2093" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T12:48:22.497" Title="Can I complete a quest during the &quot;Waterdeep Harbor&quot; phase?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14383" CreationDate="2014-01-24T04:21:20.600" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. But if you have enough cubes to complete that many missions, you'll probably find the spaces at Waterdeep Harbor filled with enemies playing &lt;em&gt;mandatory quests&lt;/em&gt; on you...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Lords_of_Waterdeep_FAQ&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: When you move (reassign) an agent out of &quot;Waterdeep Harbor&quot; to another building, are you taking another turn? Can you complete a quest?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: You can complete a quest after moving (reassigning) an agent out of &quot;Waterdeep Harbor&quot; - it is another turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T12:48:22.497" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T12:48:22.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14387" CreationDate="2014-01-24T09:54:50.843" Score="8" ViewCount="6925" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing the game, &quot;Cluedo: Discover the Secrets,&quot; we always seem to have an argument about what we can do and what we can't. So, I've came here to put the questions to rest and hopefully have them answered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Case 1:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume I am in the Living Room, and I roll a 10. I walk toward the observatory and enter the room. Can I use the secret passage to go to the Kitchen on that same turn? Same idea should apply to other secret passage rooms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Case 2:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the pool count as a room? I ask this question because the new Cluedo requires you to go to the Pool to make the accusation. So, if one was White, she has the power to go to any room that doesn't have a secret passage. Does that power extend to going to the pool and making the accusation? Same question for the intrigue card of similar ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Case 3:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Patio's doors are unclear in the board. Does it have one door or multiple ones? There is a bench that seems to be a door and their a stairway that seems to a decorative element of the room. Which is what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would appreciate any answers. Further, if someone has a reputable site that explains such cases and rules in detail, then can someone please add its in his/her answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6698" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T11:30:37.937" Title="Questions about the game-play of Cluedo" Tags="|cluedo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2014-01-24T14:47:37.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the other answers explain really well why this card is broken. I just want to focus a little on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how the R&amp;amp;D made this card&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first version of what ended being &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ds/en/140.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt; was&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suicide Sweater&#xA;  (3)&#xA;  Artifact — Equipment&#xA;  When equipped creature is put into the graveyard from play, draw two cards.&#xA;  Equip 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which was a very bad card even in Limited; it then evolved in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sac Sweater&#xA;  (3)&#xA;  Artifact — Equipment&#xA;  Equipped creature gets +1/+2.&#xA;  Sacrifice equipped creature: Draw two cards.&#xA;  Equip 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which was better, but was quickly changed to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sac Sweater&#xA;  (3)&#xA;  Artifact — Equipment&#xA;  Equipped creature gets +1/+2. When equipped creature is put into the graveyard from play, draw two cards.&#xA;  Equip 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the card was considered being OK and nobody changed anything.. until one day they decided to improve some of the equipment, as it was one of the features of the block. It was then changed to what was actually published and, because this change has been made at the very last minute, it wasn't tested before the actual print; also it was not considered worth testing because the developers had in mind the old version of this card, which was pretty bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, although the R&amp;amp;D quickly understood that the card was broken, people didn't realize immediately how powerful it was, so Skullclamp wasn't banned at the first ban list possible; after that, the meta had evolved in pro-Clamp or anti-Clamp decks and the ban in Standard and Block-Constructed was needed. It took a little more time but then it was also banned in Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T20:47:07.610" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T20:47:07.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14385" CreationDate="2014-01-24T15:55:53.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 1:&lt;/strong&gt; No, you must stop movement &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theartofmurder.com/table/clueboardgames/dts/dtsi4lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;upon entering a room&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules for Moving&lt;/strong&gt; - If you enter a Room, STOP MOVING.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 2:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, the pool is a room. Someone contacted the designer, Rob Daviau, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8132068#8132068&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;he confirmed this&lt;/a&gt;. He also notes that using this power only happens during the move phase &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt; of rolling. (I.e. You cannot start a rumor in another room, then warp to the &lt;strong&gt;Pool&lt;/strong&gt; to make an accusation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q. The Pool (1) Is the pool a room?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: (2) Can this be used as a kind of &quot;fast effect&quot; anytime during her turn, or is it only applicable during her &quot;move phase&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: Only on her move phase, instead of rolling.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 3:&lt;/strong&gt; The patio has 4 entrances. They start at the white steps which connect to the house and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theartofmurder.com/table/clueboardgames/dts/dtsboardlg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;descend to ground level&lt;/a&gt;. No doors are printed on the board for this room, unlike older editions of Clue that actually write &quot;&lt;strong&gt;DOOR&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; directly on the board. The &lt;strong&gt;Patio&lt;/strong&gt; is based on the older edition's &lt;strong&gt;Ballroom&lt;/strong&gt; and has a similar floor-plan. (The whole house does actually, albeit rotated 90 degrees in the linked image)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JgUjo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Classic Clue&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-01-25T21:35:26.813" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T21:35:26.813" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9621" CreationDate="2014-01-24T16:54:15.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to some rules sets, as soon as the combat moves are declared, AA guns will fire at any planes passing through or into their territories.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you employ the &quot;combat move - purchase units&quot; order, then this is a very important rule to enforce, as you will know if you need to replace any planes that will be shot down before your buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T16:54:15.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2014-01-24T18:52:58.090" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Asking &amp;quot;preferred strategy&amp;quot; questions opens the door to individual opinion.  I will try to avoid this by employing simple mathematics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Germany First&amp;quot; is the most logical path to choose, but not by ignoring the Pacific theatre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The U.S. can typically build with impunity during the entire game, outside of the reach of German or Japanese strength.  Once a large enough force is gathered on the eastern coast, (turn 3), they can head on over to Africa, and from there they can threaten either southern or western Europe. Meanwhile, each turn the U.S. can build a couple of transports and units to load, thereby forming a continuous loop of troops to Europe. And, in a short time, the U.S. can stop building transports and focus on the ground forces (and some air), thereby making the situation even more acute for Germany. Add to this the U.K. building its own fleet up, and Germany is soon a non-participant in the Atlantic. If Germany tries to keep pace with the U.K. and U.S. in the Atlantic, Russia will never be threatened.  Germany simply doesn't have the economy to seriously engage all three allies at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German player cannot ignore this viable threat, and must draw land forces from his eastern attack on Russia to protect his flanks.  This, in turn, will allow Russia a measure of calm before the scrap at the gates of Moscow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the U.S. forsakes the Atlantic, the U.K. doesn't have the forces to threaten Germany with any great strength, and Germany can pour its malice directly upon the Soviet Union.  And, although the U.S. has a strong economy, it cannot bring many ground troops to bear against Japanese holdings for a few turns, and when it does, the Japanese are in a far better position to fight back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mathematically, about three turns in, the Germans will have a revenue that is close to the combined Soviet Union/U.K. income.  The problem for the Germans is that they only get one turn out of five to employ this apparent bonus.  The Allies can bring three turns out of five against Germany.  The Soviets and British have similar advantages of being able to trade space for time, although the push on Moscow is a real and imminent threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One 'loop-hole', if you will, in the original A&amp;amp;A is that Japan is out of position for most of the war.  Unless the U.S. forsakes the Pacific entirely, and Britain doesn't fight for India, Japan will poke around Asia for a while, and maybe take some islands here and there, but for the most part, there are no large gains to be made as the Japanese.  True, they have an impressive naval and air presence, but there are simply no big ticket targets for them.  So, they build and build and build, and slowly spread around their area of the board, but unless the S.U. player is completely careless, Japan can never truly threaten Moscow, and, by the time they do get tanks to Moscow, Berlin is either a smoking ruin, or the Allies were inept and Germany and Japan are putting the pincer movement on Moscow.  And the idea of Western U.S. falling is ludicrous, unless, of course, the U.S. player unaware of the impending doom of 10 Japanese transports slowly making their way across the Pacific Ocean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer the question in one sentence: send as many troops as possible eastward and keep constant pressure on Germany.  If the Axis player still wants to play after Berlin falls, well, enjoy nuking Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6632" LastEditorUserId="10162" LastEditDate="2023-10-12T16:19:54.480" LastActivityDate="2023-10-12T16:19:54.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14392" CreationDate="2014-01-24T19:43:35.733" Score="14" ViewCount="8934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perplexing Chimera is a new card in Born of the Gods. It reads as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantment Creature - Chimera&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever an opponent casts a spell, you may exchange control of Perplexing Chimera and that spell. If you do, you may choose new targets for the spell. (If the spell becomes a permanent, you control that permanent.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3/3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, the following can happen if I have a Chimera on the battlefield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent casts some spell (say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;), and it goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Chimera's ability triggers. It is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent really wants his Shock to resolve, so in response he casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; on my Chimera to kill it before its ability resolves. This is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Chimera's (which is still under my control) ability triggers again. It is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, nothing else happens and we start resolving the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Chimera's ability resolves. I choose to perform the swap. I choose my opponent as the target of the Lightning Strike. My opponent gets control of the Chimera.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Strike resolves. My opponent takes 3 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;??????&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens next? Does the ability on the stack fail to resolve? Who (if anyone) gets to choose to use the Chimera's ability on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T19:58:35.177" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T06:37:13.527" Title="How does Perplexing Chimera work with multiple triggers on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14391" CreationDate="2014-01-24T19:54:19.047" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoting directly from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/faq/bng&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Born of the Gods&lt;/em&gt; Release Notes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In some unusual cases, you may not control Perplexing Chimera when its triggered ability resolves (perhaps because the triggered ability triggered again and resolved while the original ability was on the stack). In these cases, you can exchange control of Perplexing Chimera and the spell that causes the ability to trigger, even if you control neither of them. If you do, you'll be able to change targets of the spell, not the spell's new controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, because both Perplexing Chimera and Shock are controlled by your opponent when the first triggered ability resolves, exchanging their control doesn't change anything by itself, but it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; give you (yes, you, even though you still don't control anything) the option to change the Shock's target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to quote another item in the section on Perplexing Chimera which addresses a misconception you seem to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You make the decision whether to exchange control of Perplexing Chimera and the spell as the triggered ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, the triggered ability goes on the stack regardless of whether you want to make the exchange at that time; you don't decide whether or not to do the exchange until the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T19:59:22.710" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T19:59:22.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14391" CreationDate="2014-01-24T20:03:24.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resolution of your stack would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perplexing%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Perplexing Chimera&lt;/a&gt;'s last trigger resolves. You may exchange control of Perplexing Chimera and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt;. You now control Lightning Strike, and your opponent controls Perplexing Chimera. You may choose a new target for the Lightning Strike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Strike resolves and deals 3 damage to your newly chosen target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Perplexing Chimera's first trigger resolves. Even though you control neither Perplexing Chimera nor Shock, you may still exchange control and may still choose new targets for the Shock. Your opponent will retain control of both Perplexing Chimera and Shock, even though you changed targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shock resolves and deals two damage to your newly chosen target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You controlled Chimera when both triggers happened, so you get to make all of the choices when they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T20:09:08.120" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T20:09:08.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14395" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-24T22:26:54.647" Score="7" ViewCount="10796" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say to add your combat strength to theirs and in a separate section it says that your combat strength is your level plus weapons etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our first few games this essentially meant that every monster was easily beaten so we were wondering if maybe it was just your level you add to them and any enhancement cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6703" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-01-24T23:46:14.310" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:29:49.267" Title="How does the help system work in munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14395" CreationDate="2014-01-24T22:39:43.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your combat strength &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; your level plus any bonus from your equipment or any items you might use, which definitely will make some monsters much easier to defeat than otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6577" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T22:39:43.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14395" CreationDate="2014-01-24T22:41:23.713" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the rules do specifically say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Combat strength is the total of Level plus all modifiers - positive or negative - given by items and other cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the helping player adds all their bonuses to yours. Remember also to count situational modifiers that are brought about by the new helper eg. a monster who is +4 against Elves would gain a +4 bonus if the person you brought in to help was an Elf but you weren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember that Munchkin is a competitive game and it is up to you whether you assist or not (unless a specific card says otherwise). It isn't always in your (or your fellow player's) best interests to agree to help, thus forcing the player in the combat to fight alone or run away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-01-24T22:41:23.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-25T00:22:59.050" Score="0" ViewCount="2473" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Rosewater&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater&lt;/a&gt;, Magic head designer and weekly column writer, in many different occasions &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/mr85&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wrote&lt;/a&gt; about R&amp;amp;D will of creating the fewest number of cards that break the color pie. While I think this is a great decision, I don't understand what they are doing with blue creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue has been since the beginning one of the strongest colors, providing card advantage, cantrips and counterspells; the drawback was having access to really bad creatures, most of which had a really high casting cost and some important drawbacks (I'm speaking of the days in which &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/an/en/26.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Serendib Efreet&lt;/a&gt; was banned for being too good).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the last few years we have seen so many strong low casting cost blue creatures that have become format defining: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/51a.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Delver of Secrets&lt;/a&gt; is a staple in Legacy, is used in Vintage, Pauper and in few decks in Modern; despite some great graveyard hate card, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/78.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; is widely used in Modern, Legacy and Vintage decks; with the print of Commander 2013 the CC3 slot has been filled with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/c13/en/63.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;True-Name Nemesis&lt;/a&gt;, which has risen Esper and Patriot has some of the best decks in Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These awesome creatures in Legacy are used in decks that have access to the best cantrips ever printed (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ia/en/61.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/lw/en/79.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m11/en/70.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Preordain&lt;/a&gt;), the best counterspells available (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ai/en/42.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ne/en/30.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/al/en/55.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;), one of the best plainswalkers (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/wwk/en/31.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jace, the Mind Sculpture&lt;/a&gt;): I think that the R&amp;amp;D team has pushed too far this color, making it way better than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why creating great blue creatures is considered acceptable and making a green counter, a white bolt, a black cantrip and a red mana accelerator considered breaking the color pie?!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T01:37:28.917" Title="Why is Wizards breaking the color pie (at least in Legacy)?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-01-25T05:04:35.470" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14398" CreationDate="2014-01-25T01:37:28.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple: &quot;really bad creatures&quot; isn't part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Blue&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blue&lt;/a&gt;'s slice of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Color_pie&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;color pie&lt;/a&gt;.  It's not part of &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; slice.  Thus, making &lt;em&gt;good&lt;/em&gt; creatures doesn't violate the color pie, especially not when those creatures' abilities are already very color-appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T01:37:28.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14402" CreationDate="2014-01-25T04:23:58.087" Score="6" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played this game a few years ago and suddenly feel the need to find it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board represented most of Europe and North Africa. Each player had an empire and was represented by a historical figure (Julius Cesar, Cleopatra, Hammurabi, etc. I forget who represented the Greeks. Not Alexander the Great). Each empire had some advantage (the Greeks produced 1 extra ship each round).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The map was divided into territories, some with resources which could be exploited. Something like wood, grain, metal, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify what it was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6706" OwnerDisplayName="MPelletier" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T15:18:45.823" Title="Tabletop game similar to Civilization, set in Antiquity" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14400" CreationDate="2014-01-25T15:18:45.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mare_Nostrum_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia entry&quot;&gt;Mare Nostrum&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6708" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T15:18:45.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14407" CreationDate="2014-01-25T15:59:06.667" Score="4" ViewCount="2502" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies 1941, submarines can make a surprise attack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;surprise strike&lt;/strong&gt;: Each attacking submarine conducting a surprise strike rolls one die, scoring a hit on s roll of 2 or less. After an attacker has rolled for all attacking submarines, the defender chooses one sea unit for each hit and moves it behind the casualty strip (submarines cannot hit air units). The each defending submarine conducts surprise strike rolls, scoring a hit on a roll of 1. After the defender has rolled for all defending submarines, the attacker chooses one sea unit for each hit scored and removes it from play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems straightforward enough, but what if it's the first round of combat and a loaded aircraft carrier is taken out (let's say one sub vs one carrier with one fighter on it)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There appear to be no rules to the contrary, so it would seem that the fighter remains in play, assuming it was launched - especially as the carrier is placed on the casualty strip, not removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it makes me wonder if the fighter had time to launch. After all, this was a surprise strike, so the fighter shouldn't have taken off at least on the first round.  Should it be on the casualty strip with the carrier?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T02:12:50.820" Title="A&amp;A surprise strike on loaded aircraft carrier" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14403" CreationDate="2014-01-25T16:54:42.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fighters are considered, for the purpose of the game, to already be in the air, so the surprise strike will not put the fighters behind the casualty line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of combat, defending fighters have a range of one. If at the end of combat there are no carriers with available capacity in the combat zone, or an adjacent sea zone, or an adjacent land square that is controlled by an allied power where they can land, they are destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2008" LastEditorUserId="16115" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T02:12:50.820" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T02:12:50.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4975" CreationDate="2014-01-25T17:13:59.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely keep track of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardforest.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CardForest&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It lets create card games by simply specifying the rules in an online code editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You just write your rules in CoffeeScript or JavaScript (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardforest.com/reference.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt;) and get a working online multiplayer game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note 1: It is in closed beta. You can submit a request to join on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardforest.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;note 2 (Disclaimer): I'm building this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6709" LastEditorUserId="6709" LastEditDate="2014-01-25T18:36:52.320" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T18:36:52.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13478" CreationDate="2014-01-25T17:18:41.860" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should definitely keep track of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardforest.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CardForest&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is designed specifically for card games and it will let your create your version of 'Muggins' by simply specifying the rules in an online code editor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Disclaimer: I'm the founder)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(working hard to launch by June, 2014)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6709" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T17:18:41.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14403" CreationDate="2014-01-25T17:20:40.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The defending Fighters are always considered to be in the air.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Axis-Allies-1941.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, under Unit Profiles (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fighters&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] A fighter based on a defending carrier must land on the same carrier if possible after the battle. If that carrier is destroyed in combat, the fighter must try to land elsewhere. It must land on a different friendly carrier in the same sea zone, move 1 space to a friendly territory, island, or aircraft carrier, or be destroyed. This movement occurs during the Noncombat Move phase, before the acting player makes any noncombat moves. &lt;strong&gt;Carrier-based fighters are always considered to be defending in the air, even if only submarines are attacking.&lt;/strong&gt; (page 24)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aircraft Carriers&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] Fighter Defense: &lt;strong&gt;Whenever a carrier is attacked, its fighters (even those belonging to friendly powers) are considered to be defending in the air and fight normally, even if only submarines are attacking.&lt;/strong&gt; (However, a fighter cannot be chosen as a casualty from a submarine hit, because submarines can attack only sea units.) (page 26)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T17:39:36.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14408" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-25T19:21:58.633" Score="0" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;One example is if West leads a Q (top of a sequence) against a NT contract, and East plays K from Kx to unblock. If allowed to hold the trick, East would lead back the x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that bridge play is designed to protect certain vulnerable holdings, such as tenaces, in the declarer's hand from direct attack by the opening leader, West.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the tenace suit is led by East, its vulnerability will be fully exposed. Should East be on the lookout for potential vulnerable holdings in South, and overtake West's lead if an examination of his cards and dummy (and a review of the bidding) leads to a suspicion that South may have such a vulnerable holding? &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baronbarclay.com/July-9-2022/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an example of what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T16:41:16.200" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T17:31:35.347" Title="In bridge, should East consider &quot;overtaking&quot; his partner's lead if able?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13998" CreationDate="2014-01-25T19:36:33.877" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One such situation is when you have four or five cards in dummy's suit (in which he probably has four). Then either declarer or your partner is likely to be short in that suit (which creates entry or other problems for declarer). If declarer has a singleton, you've just knocked out his potential entry, perhaps before he's ready to use it, and if declarer has a doubleton (less likely than not), that's still somewhat true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If declarer is &quot;long&quot; in dummy's suit with three or four cards, your partner will be short, and may be able to ruff. And as Aryabhata pointed out, if you have singleton or doubleton, YOU may be the one leading for a ruff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A time to avoid doing this is when you have exactly three cards in dummy's suit. Then there's a good chance that the cards will be divided 4-3-3-3, which is all in the declarer's favor. It goes to the general principle of the defense playing safely when they have an &quot;average&quot; holding (e.g. three cards in dummy's suit or the trump suit), and aggressively when they have a &quot;feature&quot; (four or five cards in dummy's or declarer's suit, or conversely, shortness in a non-trump suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T19:36:33.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-25T21:25:24.313" Score="11" ViewCount="50540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to print a bunch of Magic the Gathering Proxy cards through my local Costco.  (An MTG Cube)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They called me up and told me that those cards are copyrighted material and that it would be illegal to print them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen people use proxy cards so I just assumed that Wizards of the Coast allowed printing cards that are clearly not the real card (on photo paper and not the right size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official ruling from Wizards of the Coast on this?  If it is allowed is there something I can show my local CostCo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T16:51:15.390" Title="Are Magic The Gathering Proxy cards illegal to print?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="19" ClosedDate="2014-01-29T04:04:52.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2014-01-25T21:37:14.780" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems that Wizards Of the Coast classifies it as full on illegal unless the card is made by a judge in a tournament when the original card is damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Policy Regarding Proxies and Counterfeits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Proxies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Proxies are substitute cards created solely by judges in sanctioned tournaments pursuant to the official tournament rules. These substitutes are allowed when authorized game cards become unplayable during a sanctioned tournament because of damage or excessive wear. Proxies do not include any graphical reproduction of their intended substitutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counterfeits&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Counterfeits are copies or reproductions of actual Wizards trading cards, whether or not they are identified as non-genuine. The creation and distribution of counterfeits violate United States and international copyright laws and negatively affects the integrity of Wizards’ trading card games. Counterfeits are strictly prohibited, even for personal, non-commercial use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/cardpolicy&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/cardpolicy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2014-01-25T21:37:14.780" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14428" CreationDate="2014-01-25T23:30:27.820" Score="5" ViewCount="11805" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a place that compiles extra story cards for Firefly: The Board Game? I'm aware of the 'First Time in the Captain's Chair' official one, but I'd like to try some others too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2020-01-27T19:00:08.780" Title="Extra Story Cards for Firefly" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14408" CreationDate="2014-01-26T00:08:27.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, East should certainly &lt;em&gt;consider&lt;/em&gt; overtaking the lead; thinking is usually better than not thinking. But what conclusion he reaches will depend on the bidding (presumably South has the A if the NT contract was freely bid), the expected layout of the suit, and how many times the defence can expect to get in to lead the suit. Inflexible rules that take no account of what information you have will do more damage to your score than anything except forgetting what is trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: if East believes the Q is from QJ10, it would be sensible to unblock the K; if just the QJ, probably not. But the question as asked is about overtaking in order to tick the box 'lead through a tenace', which is a bad idea, and will remain so even if in this case it (improbably) provides a good result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2014-01-26T23:42:43.967" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T23:42:43.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14410" CreationDate="2014-01-26T00:15:19.630" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a lawyer, but I found relevant information. Reproduction of copyrighted material is completely fine if it is considered Fair Use under the Fair Use Doctrine. Th doctrine provides a litmus test that you can apply to determine if your use would be considered fair. Below are the relevant clauses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 1&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  ... personal use is favored for fair use, while commercial use is disfavored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you plan to distribute these cards or sell them to your friends, you pass this test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 2&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  ... Use of imaginative works is more likely to require permission ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fail this test. The entire card is a creative work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 3&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  ... Using only a small portion of a copyrighted material tips towards fair use, while using large portions indicates a need for permission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't really apply. The rule was intended for books, movies, music, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 4&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Where a work is available for purchase or license at a reasonable cost, copying all or a significant portion of the work (in lieu of purchasing or licensing a sufficient number of &quot;authorized&quot; copies) would likely be unfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You fail this rule, because the cards are available for purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are obviously vague, and different states apply them differently. Only Wizards can give you peace of mind. All of that being said, you are safe printing proxies because they are banned at tournaments, they are worthless anyway, everyone does it, and even though Wizards strictly prohibits it, they have never gone after anyone for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what you can tell CostCo, you don't have a case. If you tried to make one, you would fail rules 2 and 4. Go print at another location, or just write over your basic lands like everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_use&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fair_use&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T16:51:15.390" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T16:51:15.390" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T06:40:11.357" Score="1" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 7 Wonders some stages of building a wonder provide special powers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example stage of 2 of Olympia (side A) allows you to build one free structure per age. If you have built 2 wonders in this case can you build 2 free structures per age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6710" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2014-01-26T15:28:43.907" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T03:00:46.780" Title="If you have multiple wonders do you get multiple special powers?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14415" CreationDate="2014-01-26T06:53:00.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like you're seriously misinterpreting something because your question doesn't make any sense as stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best guess I can make: You can only build each wonder stage once. You cannot build the same wonder stage multiple times to get multiple copies of its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T06:53:00.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7406" CreationDate="2014-01-26T12:45:15.323" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many variants of checkers/draughts&lt;/a&gt;, and for most of them (including the Checkers variant played predominantly in the English-speaking world), promotion is both mandatory and ending the move. Quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/downloads/WCDF_Revised_Rules.doc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Checkers Federation's official rulebook&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.16  &lt;strong&gt;When a man reaches the farthest row forward (known as the “king-row” or “crown-head”) it becomes a king, and this completes the&#xA;  turn of play.&lt;/strong&gt; The man can be crowned by either player ( ) by placing a&#xA;  man of the same colour on top of it before the next move is made. (It&#xA;  may be necessary to borrow from another set if no captured man is&#xA;  available for the purpose).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.19  If a jump creates an immediate further capturing opportunity, then the capturing move of the piece (man or king) is continued until&#xA;  all the jumps are completed. The only exception is that &lt;strong&gt;if a man&#xA;  reaches the king-row by means of a capturing move it then becomes a&#xA;  king but may not make any further jumps until their opponent has&#xA;  moved.&lt;/strong&gt;  At the end of the capturing sequence, all captured pieces are&#xA;  removed from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the variant for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_checkers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Russian checkers&lt;/a&gt;, promotion during a capture sequence happens &lt;em&gt;en-passant&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. in passing) and the crowned man has to continue jumping as a king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T20:32:52.143" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T20:32:52.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14418" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-26T14:27:49.370" Score="1" ViewCount="701" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368961&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ætherling&lt;/a&gt; blocks something that could kill it, can it then use its blinking ability before it takes damage? I can't stop it with anything as it blocks and leaves with no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;U: Exile Ætherling. Return it to the battlefield under its owner's control at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  U: Ætherling can't be blocked this turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1: Ætherling gets +1/-1 until end of turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1: Ætherling gets -1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6714" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T07:54:16.243" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T10:14:43.433" Title="When can an Ætherling use its blinking ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14415" CreationDate="2014-01-26T16:54:28.073" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each player has a single Wonder board, and each Wonder stage can only be built once.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_QUICKRULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quickstart rules&lt;/a&gt; cover this on the first page under &lt;strong&gt;Actions&lt;/strong&gt;, but it is also covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/7WONDERS_RULES_US_COLOR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;main rules&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;strong&gt;Game Overview&lt;/strong&gt;, Clarifications.  You may only build the stages in order from left to right, and each stage can only be built once per game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;build a stage of their Wonder&lt;/strong&gt;(in the order given by the board, from left to right): the card is placed partially under the board, face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.b. &lt;strong&gt;Build a Stage of a Wonder&lt;/strong&gt; - [...] each stage can only built once per game. (page 5, main rules)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you have &lt;strong&gt;The Lighthouse of Alexandria&lt;/strong&gt;, building the 3 stages of side (A) would give you 3VP, one Raw Material of your choice per build step, and 7VP in stage order. Building the 3 stages of side (B) would give you a Raw Material of your choice per build step, a Production Good of your choice per build step, and 7VP in stage order.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSWvK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lighthouse of Alexandria&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T21:31:30.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2014-01-26T17:08:37.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Combat Phase is divided into 5 steps. Ætherling will be assigned as a blocker during the third step, but combat damage will not be assigned until the fourth step. Ætherling's controller can activate its Exile effect to prevent it from taking damage. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86therling&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;therling&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{U}: Exile Ætherling. Return it to the battlefield under its owner's control at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T13:50:42.673" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T13:50:42.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14287" CreationDate="2014-01-26T20:43:34.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Designing AI for the game is a very good way. These are also useful if you want to play a game that is best played by for example four persons, but you are only two or three. A good example of this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/108667/power-grid-the-robots&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Robots&lt;/a&gt; for Power Grid. Their randomized solution is very good for replayability and for creating several different AIs. &#xA;Designing AI for a boardgame is also a very good way to get into the games core and generally a very good exercise in game design. (I use exercises in that at the University for game design students). Remember that it may be a challenge to get these AIs easy to use, and that ease of use something I would recommend to put at top of the priority in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designing new content, suited for the solo player, maybe with some other backdrop, as in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/149689/high-frontier-interstellar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;High Frontier Interstellar&lt;/a&gt; is another solution that may be fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games may be suited for solo variants just by changing turn sequences or adjusting them to facilitate events that is needed for the game to progress, typically for games where the winner is determined based on victory points, and you end up trying to get solo high score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of doing it is to add a redesign that facilitate collaborative game play. This can then be played by one player, playing all players, as a positive bi product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally your creativity sets the limit :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6717" LastActivityDate="2014-01-26T20:43:34.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7406" CreationDate="2014-01-27T00:16:24.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a checker reaches the furthest row on the opposite side of the board, its turn ends, because it can make no further FORWARD move. It cannot &quot;skip&quot; or make any other move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beginning with the NEXT move, it can move backward. In order to do so, it must be &quot;kinged,&quot; which it cannot refuse such, at the end of the preceding turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T00:16:24.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14415" CreationDate="2014-01-27T03:00:46.780" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When building multiple wonders special powers accumulate. So if you build Olympia's special power twice you get 2 free structures per age. However for other structures such as Halicarnassus when you build it's special ability you only get to use it in the age that you built it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6718" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T03:00:46.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31391" CreationDate="2014-01-27T09:52:27.527" Score="5" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing the LOTR board game (Reiner Knizia) with the Sauron expansion (me as Sauron).  On a player's turn, I played a Nazgul card.  They interrupted the card with yellow cards, putting the ring on, and Frodo's special power, and managed to end the scenario, and therefore avoided the entire Nazgul card's effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right? I'd argue that although the interrupts seem reasonable, as the Nazgul card is based on a player's turn, and not the scenario, the affects should still happen.  What do others think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T11:31:28.123" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:33:38.050" Title="In LOTR with Sauron, what's the timing of Nazgul cards?" Tags="|lord-of-the-rings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2014-01-27T15:07:33.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as it is on the battlefield, Ætherling can use any of his abilities at any time when you have priority, unless another effect prohibits it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1b A player may activate an activated ability any time he or she has priority&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you read the relevant comprehensive rules, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timing_and_Priority&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, if you want to fully understand priority, but I'll provide two examples to make it easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent has priority. He casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; on your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86therling&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;therling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority. You respond by using Ætherling's first ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gets priority. He does nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority. You do nothing. Ætherling's ability resolves and he goes into exile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gets priority. He does nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority. You do nothing. Doom Blade goes to resolve and is countered by game rules for not having a legal target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you may have noticed, every time both you and your opponent &amp;quot;do nothing&amp;quot;, the top of the stack resolves. Let's looks at another example, in which you actually lose your Ætherling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; in play with Ætherling as the named card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent has priority. He casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; on your Ætherling.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority. You want to activate Ætherling's first ability, but you can't because of Pithing Needle, so you do nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent get's priority. He does nothing. Doom Blade resolves, and Ætherling is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to avoid games that take hours, players generally do not step through these phases. You are allowed to take shortcuts as long as your opponent agrees, but you are never obligated to do so. You may always ask your opponent to step through the official phases, and you should when it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it is worth mentioning that the Ætherling that comes back to the field is not the same Ætherling that went into exile. It may be represented by the same card, but anytime an object changes zones, it becomes a new object. Ætherling will lose all memory of who it was in a previous visit to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-01-27T22:36:25.443" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T22:36:25.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14418" CreationDate="2014-01-27T15:23:30.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When can an Ætherling use its blinking ability?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simple: &lt;strong&gt;Any time the controller has priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1784" LastEditorUserId="1784" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T10:14:43.433" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T10:14:43.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7604" CreationDate="2014-01-27T16:26:00.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chance of getting a total of x on the two dice is simply (6-|7-x|)/36 where |7-x| is the absolute value of 7-x. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6720" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T16:26:00.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14412" CreationDate="2014-01-27T17:26:55.500" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few of them on BoardGameGeek.com, in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/138161/firefly-game/forums/69?pageid=1&amp;amp;sort=hot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firefly - Variants forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people put &quot;Story Card&quot; or &quot;Custom Story Card&quot; in the title, which helps find them, others just put a title that describes what the story is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6179" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-04-16T20:33:20.580" LastActivityDate="2017-04-16T20:33:20.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14287" CreationDate="2014-01-27T20:27:02.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any approach to designing solo variants should take into account &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/49479/soloplay-variants-posted-on-the-geek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this impressive body of work on BGG&lt;/a&gt;. This user has created 46 (to date) very robust solo versions of popular'highly ranked games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T20:27:02.610" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-01-27T20:27:02.610" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2114" CreationDate="2014-01-27T20:40:03.763" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many variants of checkers/draughts&lt;/a&gt;, and for all of them (including the Checkers variant played predominantly in the English-speaking world), not only is jumping compulsory, it is also compulsory to keep jumping until all the jumps are completed. Quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/downloads/WCDF_Revised_Rules.doc&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;American Checkers Federation's official rulebook&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.19  &lt;strong&gt;If a jump creates an immediate further capturing opportunity, then the capturing move of the piece (man or king) is continued until&#xA;  all the jumps are completed&lt;/strong&gt;. The only exception is that if a man&#xA;  reaches the king-row by means of a capturing move it then becomes a&#xA;  king but may not make any further jumps until their opponent has&#xA;  moved.  At the end of the capturing sequence, all captured pieces are&#xA;  removed from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.20  &lt;strong&gt;All capturing moves are compulsory&lt;/strong&gt;, whether offered actively or passively. If there are two or more ways to jump, &lt;strong&gt;a player may select&#xA;  any one that they wish, not necessarily that which gains the most&#xA;  pieces&lt;/strong&gt;. Once started, a multiple jump must be carried through to&#xA;  completion. A man can only be jumped once during a multiple jumping&#xA;  sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rules for selecting among multiple ways to jump differs from variant to variant. E.g. for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;International draughts&lt;/a&gt;, the sequence with the most jumped pieces has to be selected, and for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Italian draughts&lt;/a&gt; there are even further tie-breaker rules depending on the number of kings that are being captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastActivityDate="2014-01-27T20:40:03.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14408" CreationDate="2014-01-28T00:40:58.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No; overtaking partners honour should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be on East's list of possible actions as dummy comes down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is not to say that it is never right for East to do so; or that East should never take such an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather, there are far too many more important things for East to be studying as Dummy comes down than a check-list of rare and unusual plays. Any such bold action can only be performed confidently through an extremely good picture of the hand, and how the defensive setting trick is to be developed. Such an understanding of the hand will only be hindered, significantly, by spending (need I say wasting) valuable seconds considering a list of circumstances that only occur every one or two hundred hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the action is correct, and one obtains through more efficient means a sufficient picture of the hand to predict this as required to establish the setting trick, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;it will then become an obvious action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example hand, a count of Hearts and inspection of the Club tenace over Dummy, makes overtaking Partner's HQ obvious. The Heart AJ are both tricks unless Declarer rushed into No Trump with a singleton HJ; and no other Hearts can promote over East's KJT9. If West has HJ alone remaining, the H8 return by East will make clear that a Club return is desired if West gets in again and started with just 2 Hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2023-02-05T17:31:35.347" LastActivityDate="2023-02-05T17:31:35.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-28T17:20:00.587" Score="8" ViewCount="2570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played the other day with a very experienced player who held the 2(same) of the 1 tile that I needed to go win - she stated based upon where she knew I was playing, she was declaring my hand dead and that I would need to sit out the rest of the game and then pay whoever wins.  Upon reading the info here, am I wrong, but, shouldn't I have been able to continue to play in the event that I would have thrown a tile someone else might me wanting.  If she had thrown the tile I needed, she would have paid $1.60 to me.  If my hand is dead because she didn't want to throw the needed tile, then wouldn't her hand be dead and she unable to play too?  Very confused on this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6732" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T20:54:39.900" Title="Mahjong - declaring another player dead" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2364" CreationDate="2014-01-28T19:23:54.897" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found one simple word switch that is a helpful teaching aid.  Substitute the word mana for money.  You can't do anything without money.  The more money you have, the greater your options become.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6736" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T19:23:54.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14436" CreationDate="2014-01-28T19:32:23.880" Score="10" ViewCount="1555" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I recently ran into a scenario and we're not sure how it would play out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My friend plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23043&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shade's Form&lt;/a&gt; on one of his creatures. (B: This creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&amp;quot;&#xA;When enchanted creature is put into a graveyard, return that card to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On my next turn I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Demise&quot;&gt;False Demise&lt;/a&gt; on that same creature. (When enchanted creature dies, return that card to the battlefield under your control.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On the next turn, the creature is put into a graveyard. Who gains control of this creature? I assume False Demise would resolve first putting it under my control—but does Shade's form then resolve too, moving it back to my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T19:43:52.197" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T20:01:26.640" Title="MTG—Multiple Card Stack Confusion" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14434" CreationDate="2014-01-28T19:50:54.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The non-active player will get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both abilities trigger at the same time, the moment the creature is moved to the graveyard from the battlefield&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time a player would get priority, all the abilities that have triggered since the last time a player got priority are placed on the stack&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.3]&lt;/sup&gt;. APNAP controls the order in which the triggers are placed on the stack&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.3b]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the Active Player (the player whose turn it is) places his abilities on the stack first. (If there are more than one, he places them in the order he desires.) Then, the Non-Active Player places his abilities on the stack (in the order he desires)&lt;sup&gt;[CR 101.4]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As usual, they will resolve in the opposite order they were added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The NAP's ability will resolve first. The card will be returned to the battlefield under that player's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AP's ability will resolve second. The ability will fail to find the card (since that object no longer exists&lt;sup&gt;[CR 400.7]&lt;/sup&gt;) and it won't do anything&lt;sup&gt;[CR 609.3]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.6]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6. Trigger events that involve objects changing zones are called “zone-change triggers.” Many abilities with zone-change triggers attempt to do something to that object after it changes zones. During resolution, these abilities look for the object in the zone that it moved to. If the object is unable to be found in the zone it went to, the part of the ability attempting to do something to the object will fail to do anything. The ability could be unable to find the object because the object never entered the specified zone, because it left the zone before the ability resolved, or because it is in a zone that is hidden from a player, such as a library or an opponent’s hand. (This rule applies even if the object leaves the zone and returns again before the ability resolves.) The most common zone-change triggers are enters-the-battlefield triggers and leaves-the-battlefield triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T19:58:11.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14434" CreationDate="2014-01-28T19:51:41.417" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The resolution of both abilities will result in the creature coming into the battlefield under control of the non-active player, and that player will still control it when both abilities have resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of those enchantments have triggered abilities. When the creature dies, multiple triggered abilities controlled by different players trigger. Then we just follow &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;rule 603.3b&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;APNAP here is an acronym for &quot;Active Player, Non-Active Player&quot;. So, first the active player's trigger gets put on the stack, then the non-active player's trigger. This means that the non-active player's ability resolves first, so they get control of the creature. Then when the active player's ability tries to resolve, we have to look at rule 603.6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Trigger events that involve objects changing zones are called &quot;zone-change triggers.&quot; Many abilities with zone-change triggers attempt to do something to that object after it changes zones. During resolution, these abilities look for the object in the zone that it moved to. &lt;strong&gt;If the object is unable to be found in the zone it went to, the part of the ability attempting to do something to the object will fail to do anything.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability that is trying to resolve (&quot;When enchanted creature dies, return that card to the battlefield under your control.&quot;) is actually shorthand for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When enchanted creature is moved from the battlefield to the graveyard, put that card onto the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the creature that died is no longer in the graveyard, the active player's ability does nothing as it resolves, and the non-active player retains control of the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T20:01:26.640" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T20:01:26.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-28T20:33:55.013" Score="58" ViewCount="4531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that both players each had 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leaden%20Myr&quot;&gt;Leaden Myr&lt;/a&gt;, 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Myr%20Galvanizer&quot;&gt;Myr Galvanizer&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nantuko%20Shade&quot;&gt;Nantuko Shade&lt;/a&gt;. (Or any other way to get unlimited mana, and a Nantuko Shade).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 attacks with his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nantuko%20Shade&quot;&gt;Nantuko Shade&lt;/a&gt;, and player 2 blocks with his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nantuko%20Shade&quot;&gt;Nantuko Shade&lt;/a&gt;. Before damage is assigned, each has chances to pump up their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nantuko%20Shade&quot;&gt;Nantuko Shade&lt;/a&gt; as much as they want. They can't just declare them to be &amp;quot;infinite,&amp;quot; but each can always one-up the other player. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems there would be a loop of events, but would one player eventually be forced to break the loop as per rule 714.3? Is it considered the same game state after each player pumps their creature a bunch as it was before?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was discussed at length on the Draw3Cards Magic Q&amp;amp;A site (which is no longer available), but no conclusion was reached. Some felt that the game would simply be a draw, others felt that the active player would be forced to make a different decision to break the loop. Others felt that you would just have to call a judge and see what he decides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T06:59:13.967" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:32:52.667" Title="What happens if both players have the ability to pump their creature an unlimited number of times?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-28T20:38:52.000" Score="9" ViewCount="102515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards Against Humanity has a free download for a PDF to print custom cards (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://s3.amazonaws.com/cah/CAH_BlankWhiteCards.pdf&quot;&gt;PDF for printing custom white cards&lt;/a&gt;). However, it seems that these cards are not the same shape/size as the official cards which you get when you purchase the game. The reason for this, clearly, is that while the game is offered via a creative commons-type license, so you can print your own, they want to differentiate their own version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I want to print custom cards which can be used alongside the 'official' version which I own. For this to work, they need to look exactly like the other cards - at least in shape, color, card stock, and finish. That way, when such cards are mixed into the deck and we are playing, it isn't possible to tell when someone has a 'custom' card or an 'official' one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, how should I go about printing such customer cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I want to print custom cards which fit in with the regular cards which you can purchase, what card stock should I use to print them with the appropriate weight, glossy surface, etc? I have experience printing a magazine and would be happy to go to either a Kinkos or small-scale printer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="935" LastEditorUserId="935" LastEditDate="2014-01-29T11:48:46.080" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T22:30:13.367" Title="How to make custom Cards Against Humanity Cards?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|print-and-play|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2014-01-28T20:58:37.903" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a fragmented loop.  The active player (whose turn it is) would be forced to make a decision that stops the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;719.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. &lt;strong&gt;If that happens, the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: In a two-player game, the active player controls a creature with the ability “{0}: [This creature] gains flying,” the nonactive player controls a permanent with the ability “{0}: Target creature loses flying,” and nothing in the game cares how many times an ability has been activated. Say the active player activates his creature’s ability, it resolves, then the nonactive player activates her permanent’s ability targeting that creature, and it resolves. This returns the game to a game state it was at before. The active player must make a different game choice (in other words, anything other than activating that creature’s ability again). The creature doesn’t have flying. Note that the nonactive player could have prevented the fragmented loop simply by not activating her permanent’s ability, in which case the creature would have had flying. The nonactive player always has the final choice and is therefore able to determine whether the creature has flying.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence - the attacking player is screwed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:32:52.667" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-28T22:00:15.863" Score="5" ViewCount="68923" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do I do if I have zero cards left in my hand at the end of my turn?  Do I wait until the end of my turn then draw the usual one card at the beginning of my next turn or do I draw a new seven card hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6740" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T22:50:33.290" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T13:59:46.733" Title="Do I get more cards if my hand is empty at the end of my turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14441" CreationDate="2014-01-28T22:06:53.717" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you get to your draw step, you must draw a single card, unless some effect lets you draw more or less. If you attempt to draw a card when your library is empty, you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your hand is empty, the rules remain the same, and you still only draw one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how the comprehensive rules states it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The draw step is the third step of the beginning phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;504.1. First, the active player draws a card. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;504.2. Second, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the draw step and any other abilities that have triggered go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;504.3. Third, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-01-28T22:17:02.550" LastActivityDate="2014-01-28T22:17:02.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14432" CreationDate="2014-01-29T15:31:43.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be assuming you're playing Riichi, that's the only ruleset I know which has &quot;dead hands&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand your question correctly, I don't see why she would declare your hand dead at all in this situation. I take it you declared Riichi in that game. If she called you dead because you could not win, since she kept your winning tiles, that is not a valid action for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;She would be dead as well (unless she had another wait).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You (or she) could still deal into another players hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not being able to win does not make your hand dead, it is simply &quot;not able to win anymore&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither you nor her should even know about which tiles are in possession of which player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there was a misunderstanding and she meant to say &quot;you can't win anymore&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T15:31:43.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2014-01-29T16:51:59.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First things first, this is a fragmented loop as defined by 716.3, the definition of pertinent game-state is left up to the discretion of the players or the judge if involved. There is plenty of precedence that repeated usage of abilities that make a minor adjustment to the game state are considered loops. Since we have a loop we by extension have a fragmented loop due to having multiple players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately no one is talking about the shortcut employed by the players, which is very important to how the problem gets resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these instances a shortcut is not allowed unless agreed between players or a few actions have been taken to establish how the loop will function. How the loop begins drastically changes how the overall game will be impacted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming there are no other pertinent abilities available, it would begin with the active player having the option to activate an ability on the declare blockers step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they choose to begin creating mana, the non-active player can bury their loop creating a non-fragmented loop, allowing &quot;infinite pump&quot;, similarly every time the active player tried to pump they could repeat that action. An example shortcut is &quot;every time you pump I pump 100 times&quot;, since the active player is required to break the loop, this would end with their shade dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they choose to pass, the non-active player would be given the chance. The reverse of the first example would happen. Note that in this case the active player has to break the loop, however since they got to pump before the loop started, this isn't a problem. The non-active player gets an extra pump, but that doesn't matter when the active player already got lots of pumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the non-active player also passes then the two 1/1's kill each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus unless I am missing something, it is a game of chicken and thus will result in two 1/1's killing each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one other possibility that I didn't consider. If players aren't playing perfectly (as I described here) then the judge would walk the players through moving the game forward, forcing a &quot;number of attempts&quot; like in 716.3. Unfortunately without a lot more detail, including knowing how the players react to this walk through, it is impossible to tell ahead of time how that will be resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard of something revolving around choosing numbers with restrictions but don't know offhand what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this feels a bit contrived as tournament players being nice would be odd, since the benefits of not waiting are obvious at that level of play. Similarly at kitchen table I would expect players to just let both die as a compromise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T19:09:30.993" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T19:09:30.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14448" CreationDate="2014-01-29T18:01:46.583" Score="3" ViewCount="3335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently learned how to play Netrunner and it seems to me that the corporation has a large advantage because ice doesn't break if bypassed. As a corp I can just keep piling on ice and the runner can't really get past my defenses. It will require large amounts of coin/runs to get through something they will eventually not be able to afford. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a rule or part of the game that I am not playing correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2020-10-03T18:15:06.540" Title="Does ice ever break in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14447" CreationDate="2014-01-29T18:32:17.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you remembering to pay the extra 1C per existing ice on a server when you install? If you install the 3rd ice, you have to pay 2C installation costs as well as the rez cost to then rez that ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also many cards which the runner has which can derez or trash ice once it is installed, Parasite being the most used example from the Core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The runner also doesn't have to get through every time; if they sit there gaining cash the corp won't be able to keep them out indefinitely. This means a rich runner puts the corp under a lot of pressure, since if the corp tries to score an Agenda, the runner can break into the remote server. If the corp doesn't try to score, they will soon have an HQ full of agendas which will be very profitable for the runner to run against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-01-29T18:32:17.370" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2014-01-30T00:02:45.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have player tokens/counters already in the game you could track turns with a single set and the dual track method mentioned above (trying to introduce fewer new components).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Basically track one is 'current turn' order, track two is 'next turn' order.  The first player is the one with their token in the highest position of the 'current turn' track.  When their turn is complete they move their token to the first open space in the 'next turn' track.  An exception would occur if the first player did a 'push down' maneuver (they would then place their token in slot two).  The player with the next highest token on the 'current turn' track then plays.  When they are done they move their token to the 'next turn' track, on the first open spot - in this case slot 1 since player one did a 'push down'.  If player two also did a 'push down' it would essentially negate player ones' 'push down' since they would be moving to slot 2 and player one would be moved back up to slot 1.  When the last player has finished the only thing left to do is slide the tokens back to the turn track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your game is played only with cards then I would suggest two (or more) turn order sets.&#xA;Similar to what we have above, each player has a turn card from set one.  When player ones' turn is over they draw the top card from set two (unless they played a 'push down' in which case they take the second) and turn in their set one turn card.  The turn sets may need to be different colors to more easily keep track.  Also, when drawing a set two card you may need to place it sideways (or something) to show that it's not in play yet.  At the end of the last players turn, all of the set one cards have been turned in.  Put them in order to draw from next.  Set two cards should be placed upright and play proceeds with player one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been a bunch of good comments.  I hope you are able to find something helpful among these posts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6278" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T00:02:45.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2014-01-30T00:48:14.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player can have a double sided token, with one side grayed out indicating that their turn has been taken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These tokens can be placed on a track that indicates turn order. Once they start their turn, they flip the token to the grayed out side. If they take any actions that change their next turn order, simply move the token up or down the track as appropriate. Play then moves to the next unflipped token. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of a new round, all tokens are flipped back to their coloured side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T00:48:14.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14452" CreationDate="2014-01-30T01:43:29.790" Score="9" ViewCount="2097" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about a new Born of the Gods card.  The card is called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Silent%20Sentinel&quot;&gt;Silent Sentinel&lt;/a&gt;.  It has the text that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Silent Sentinel attacks, you may return target enchantment&#xA;card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was listening to podcast &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com/limited-resources-218-born-of-the-gods-rules-and-mechanics-with-judge-joe-bono/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Limited Resources episode 218&lt;/a&gt; with Judge Joe Bono.  In that episode he says that Silent Sentinel could attach a Enchantment Aura to a creature that was protected from the color of the aura.  He then says that it would just drop off immediately. (This was right around the 1 hour mark in the show.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I got to thinking about this and I wondered if any of the effects of the Enchantment would have any effect before they dropped off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example to illustrate: My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=White%20Knight&quot;&gt;White Knight&lt;/a&gt; in play. I have a Silent Sentinel in play along with 7 Swamps.  I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quag%20Sickness&quot;&gt;Quag Sickness&lt;/a&gt; in my graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my combat phase, I attack with my Silent Sentinel.  This allows me to bring back a Quag Sickness from my graveyard.  I attach Quag Sickness to the White Knight.  (Note: Because bringing an aura back with Silent Sentinel it does not require targeting to attach it.  So it can attach to White Knight despite it having protection from Black).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the arua will fall off right away, but before it falls off does any of the effects of it do anything?  (Meaning could it kill the White Knight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Quag Sickness in this example does not do anything, is there a scenario that would?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-01-30T02:42:46.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T09:56:41.777" Title="Auras on creatures with protection" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14451" CreationDate="2014-01-30T02:02:21.980" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Quag Sickness &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; be returned to the battlefield enchanting the White Knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule about Protection, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Protection&quot;&gt;702.16c&lt;/a&gt;, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A permanent or player with protection can’t be enchanted by Auras that have the stated quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the relevant rule about Auras, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Aura&quot;&gt;303.4f&lt;/a&gt;, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an Aura is entering the battlefield under a player’s control by any means other than by resolving as an Aura spell, and the effect putting it onto the battlefield doesn’t specify the object or player the Aura will enchant, that player chooses what it will enchant as the Aura enters the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;The player must choose a legal object or player according to the Aura’s enchant ability and any other applicable effects&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that, since White Knight has protection from black and Quag Sickness is black, White Knight is not a legal object according to &quot;other applicable effects&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T02:02:21.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14355" CreationDate="2014-01-30T04:29:12.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive rules are great, but if you just want a quick explanation, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/bornofthegodsmechanics#anchor8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Born of the Gods article&lt;/a&gt; answers exactly this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... The second ability is worded so that it doesn't matter how or when your opponent's creatures would have or gain flying. Whether they have flying printed on them, gained flying before your Archetype of Imagination entered the battlefield, try to gain it after your Archetype of Imagination entered the battlefield, or are being granted flying continuously (say, by another Archetype of Imagination), they can't have flying for any reason while you control Archetype of Imagination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if two players each control Archetype of Imagination, none of their creatures have flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T04:29:12.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14451" CreationDate="2014-01-30T09:56:41.777" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Murgatroid has answered this correctly and thoroughly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we talked about Silent Sentinel on the show I wanted to discuss the interaction with Hexproof and Shroud, which is where we started the discussion. Brian then asked bout the interaction with protection and I gave an off-the-cuff answer without thinking, which was basically &quot;well, if an enchantment is enchanting something that has protection from that enchantment, the enchantment will fall off next time we check SBAs.&quot; That is a technically correct answer, but it wasn't the right answer to this question because the issue isn't what happens if an object is illegally enchanted, but rather &quot;under these circumstances, can this object become enchanted in the first place.&quot; To which the answer is &quot;no.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common situation you run into with protection and illegally attached auras is when an object gains protection while it is already enchanted, which is where I was coming from addressing Brian's question. I didn't take the time to actually step back and think things through, which, while it is an essential part of handling rules questions, doesn't make for good radio. Clearly this is a question I should have been prepared to answer given that I knew we were going to discuss Silent Sentinel, so I'm definitely at fault here and I apologize for the misinformation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6756" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T09:56:41.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-30T17:20:13.780" Score="5" ViewCount="90" Body="&lt;p&gt;Near the end of the game, when a price adjustment occurs 9 or 10 briefcases can be puled from the bag, but only 5 will be replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played recently where the bag ran out of cases except for these 5 that got added. In this situation, everybody knows exactly what will come out and the game loses the randomness which the stock market is meant to have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any rule for what to do in this situation, should a stalemate be declared, or is this normal and acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T10:28:07.330" Title="What to do when briefcases in the bag run out?" Tags="|black-friday|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13417" CreationDate="2014-01-30T17:51:39.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One solution would be to create a &quot;track of tracks&quot;. To speak somewhat more formally, one could utilize an analogy to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Permutation_matrix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;permutation matrix&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two kinds of objects are necessary for this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &quot;ruler&quot; marked &quot;1st, 2nd, 3rd,&quot; etc. for each player, with sliding markers on them, which can be slid along the length of the ruler to indicate in which position that player is.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A square board, at least long enough to accommodate the number of players; it should be labeled with a grid, with cells labeled &quot;1st, 2nd, 3rd,&quot; etc. sequentially as one descends a column, and identical through the rows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+---+---+---+&#xA;|1st|1st|1st|&#xA;+---+---+---+&#xA;|2nd|2nd|2nd|&#xA;+---+---+---+&#xA;|3rd|3rd|3rd|&#xA;+---+---+---+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let me work through its mechanism as through the example. At the beginning of the game, the initial order would be set by setting each player's ruler to their order, and then placing it (vertically) over the column of that order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|JIM|| ||| ||&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|| ||STE|| ||&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|| ||| ||BET|&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the game, the names in the &lt;strong&gt;columns&lt;/strong&gt; (in sequence) will correspond to the current turn's order, and the  &lt;strong&gt;rows&lt;/strong&gt; will correspond to the next turn's order. Thus, when Jim falls back one step, he indicates this by sliding his marker down one place on his ruler, and Steve's marker on his ruler up one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|| ||STE|| ||&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|JIM|| ||| ||&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|| ||| ||BET|&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the next round, the rulers are rearranged such that the &quot;1st&quot; row player is in the 1st column, the 2nd row in the 2nd column, etc.: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|STE|| ||| ||&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|| ||JIM|| ||&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;|| ||| ||BET|&#xA;+| |+| |+| |+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the order is Steve, Jim, Betty, etc. and so continues the example; each player takes their turns in order from left to right, tracks order changes by sliding the markers on the rulers accordingly, and at the end of each round, the rulers are rearranged back into a diagonalized order across the grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6337" LastActivityDate="2014-01-30T17:51:39.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14463" CreationDate="2014-01-30T20:39:35.813" Score="7" ViewCount="1769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes when I pass my turn, my opponent simply untaps and, if nothing triggers during upkeep, they draw. This can be a major headache for me when I want to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Short&quot;&gt;Mana Short&lt;/a&gt; after my opponent untaps but before he or she draws a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the penalty for skipping priority at competitive REL? At a regular REL event?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card was drawn and has already touched the players hand, such that no judge could tell it apart from the cards already in that player's hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My last spoken words were &amp;quot;Pass turn&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had 2-3 seconds of time between untap and draw during which I could have said something but failed to do so&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation is frustrating because I do not want to tell my opponent, &amp;quot;Hey, I have something to do during your upkeep. Now I pass my turn.&amp;quot; That gives away my plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the answer is &amp;quot;You should speak up faster!&amp;quot; that's fine, as long as the answer contains a respectable source (a judge's ruling, the comprehensive rules, etc.).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:32:28.790" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:32:28.790" Title="Penalty For Skipping Priority" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|mtg-regular-rel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14457" CreationDate="2014-01-30T21:13:33.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards acknowledges this as a valid game shortcut (for non tournament play at least):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20050204a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20050204a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Game Fluidification” shortcuts: not letting the opponent know about&#xA;  skipping a phase or step (for instance, drawing right after untapping)&#xA;  or not passing priority whereas you should (when opponent is all&#xA;  tapped…)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you should do as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your opponent is untapping you should say, you want to play something. In the case they have nothing to untap, wait until they verbally or non-verbally communicate that they are about to start their turn then interupt them saying &quot;wait a second I have something to play during your upkeep&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/article/20071109a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizards admits that their list of common shortcuts is not exhaustive&lt;/a&gt; but when miscommunication or a player uses a previously undeclared shortcut they can be issued a warning for 'Communication Policy Violation'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player is not allowed to use a previously undeclared shortcut, or&#xA;  to modify an in-use shortcut without announcing the modification, in&#xA;  order to create ambiguity in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Until you establish a shortcut, there is no shortcut. And again, once&#xA;  you establish a shortcut, you stick with it – until you say otherwise.&#xA;  But even more important: in order to create ambiguity in the game –&#xA;  that's the key concept in our first &quot;Thou shalt not!&quot; Players use many&#xA;  bluffs to try and gain advantage. We acknowledge that's part of the&#xA;  game, and Section 50 of the PG addresses many of the boundaries (as&#xA;  explained in Toby Elliott's article). What we're trying to say here is&#xA;  that players should not mess with shortcuts to confuse their opponents&#xA;  (nor themselves, for that matter).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now, what to do with such a player? Apply the new penalty from the new&#xA;  Guide? Well, there isn't one. We added a new penalty because of&#xA;  Section 50:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;137. Tournament Error – Player Communication Violation &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;and the definition of that new penalty includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A player unintentionally violates the Player Communication guidelines (see section 50). &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No mention in there at all of section 51 and these Shortcuts. A&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;further search of the whole Penalty Guide doesn't refer to Shortcuts.&#xA;  So what is the penalty for violating this?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Let me repeat: there is none.&lt;/strong&gt; It's enough to explain to the player&#xA;  that their intent to create ambiguity via shortcut shenanigans is&#xA;  unacceptable – and to refrain from doing so again. (If they continue&#xA;  to ignore that last instruction, then you may have an instance of&#xA;  Unsporting Conduct.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can result in rolling back the state of the game, until before the error occurred.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific case, consult the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic infractions procedure guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the situation is simple enough to safely back up&#xA;  without too much disruption to the course of the game, the judge may&#xA;  get permission from the Head Judge to back up the game to the point of&#xA;  the incorrect information. Each action taken is undone until the game&#xA;  reaches the point immediately prior to the error. Cards incorrectly&#xA;  placed in hand are returned to the location in the zone from which&#xA;  they were moved &lt;strong&gt;(if the identity of the incorrectly drawn card is not&#xA;  known to all players, a random card is returned instead&lt;/strong&gt;). Once the&#xA;  game is backed up, it continues from that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my interpretation of the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on previous turns you established a shortcut with your opponent by not insisting on him not skipping the declaration he was moving from untap to upkeep to draw without taking any actions (or by skipping the declarations yourself). Your time to act and terminate the shortcut was during that pause between when he untapped and when he drew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T04:35:37.910" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T04:35:37.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14475" CreationDate="2014-01-30T23:50:48.127" Score="7" ViewCount="37009" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that the game is for 2 to 8 players. But there are only eight monopolies on the board, meaning that in a game of eight players, there would only be an average of one monopoly for each player. Meaning that some players probably would have no monopolies. And it might be hard for any player to get a monopoly (except, possibly, by trading). Then you would have a great divide between the propertied, and non-propertied players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But six players is mandated in some versions of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tmk.edu.ee/%7Ecreature/monopoly/download/official_rules_gathering/official_tournament_kit_tournament_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;. Are there any tournaments that feature more than six players? Do other tournaments have five, four or three players more frequently than &amp;quot;six&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interest of keeping answers relatively objective, the best answers would address tournament experiences and results, or cite a book or study using an expert author's experiences (either first hand tournament or computer simulated).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T22:16:07.990" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T22:16:07.990" Title="Does &quot;tournament experience&quot; show &quot;too many players&quot; in a game of monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-06-01T10:13:55.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14462" CreationDate="2014-01-31T01:28:14.240" Score="7" ViewCount="2493" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definition for interaction in netrunner seems a tad vague and I was hoping to clear up some points. I know you can run through ice and accept subroutines if you do not have the appropriate ice breaker. You choose not to interact and bypass the ice but suffer the consequences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you still do this if you have no programs installed as the runner? For example, couldn't I, without any programs, make 4 runs on my first turn? Even if the corp put down 3 ice on their turn, Most likely they will not or cannot rez them all. This gives me several, maybe even four succesful runs on my first turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T01:55:33.433" Title="Do you need a program to make a run in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14461" CreationDate="2014-01-31T01:55:33.433" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct!  No icebreaker is required to make a run.  So yes, the mantra: run early, run often!  On the first turn, it is usually good to put some pressure on a central server that isn't well defended (either HQ or R&amp;amp;D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However: some decks will punish you for this (especially Jinteki), as they have cards that can hurt you when accessed from R&amp;amp;D or HQ (Snare, Shock, et cetera).  Also, you can run naked (no ICEBREAKERS) even against servers that have ICE... and you might be successful if the corp doesn't rez them or if they don't have any &quot;end the run&quot; subroutines.  Again, that can be pretty dangerous though (watch out for Neural Katanas).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most corp players will expect this though - if you are Criminal, they will generally defend HQ on turn 1 (to stop Account Siphons); if you are Shaper, they will typically put some ICE on R&amp;amp;D (to try and prevent Maker's Eye runs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T01:55:33.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14457" CreationDate="2014-01-31T06:14:07.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nothing/Warning for both you and your opponent at a Competitive REL or Regular REL event.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Regular Rules Enforcement Level&lt;/a&gt; (REL) events (such as Friday Night Magic, Game Days, and Prereleases) has a more relaxed/friendly atmosphere, and does not use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;. The Infraction Procedure Guide has no &lt;strong&gt;Game Play Errors&lt;/strong&gt; that match your situation and the closest matching Common Issue from the Regular REL is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A player makes an in-game error not mentioned above&lt;/strong&gt; - This will cover the bulk of player errors, and &lt;strong&gt;we will usually leave the game as it is&lt;/strong&gt;. Fix anything that is currently illegal (e.g. an Aura enchanting an illegal permanent) and continue the game. If the error was caught quickly and rewinding is relatively easy, you may choose to undo all the actions back to the point that the illegal action happened. This can include returning random cards from the hand to the library to undo card draws (though don't shuffle the library if you do this) and reversing various other actions (such as untapping permanents and declaring attackers or blockers). &lt;strong&gt;Don't go crazy with this!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, they just leave the game as it is. It is probably fairly common that people just skip upkeep when nothing triggers during the upkeep. In the relaxed environment, judges are there to be friendly and educate, not to hand out violations. At the Competitive level though, if any violation occurred, it would have to be the generic ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Events.aspx?x=mtgevent/ptgen07/rulesfeat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game Play Error/Failure to Maintain Game State&lt;/a&gt;, and both you and your opponent are guilty of each one respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, within &amp;quot;game errors&amp;quot; there are four specific categories of warnings that the offending player can get. However, because bothplayers are now responsible for maintaining a legal game state, &lt;strong&gt;if one player gets a warning for one a game error, the opponent will receive a warning&lt;/strong&gt; from the special fifth group, which is &amp;quot;Failure to maintain game state.&amp;quot; [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game Play Error - This is the &amp;quot;everything else&amp;quot; category, so any game errors that don't fall under the first three categories land here. So this is where we're talking about things like accidentally playing a card for the wrong mana cost, forgetting to attack with a creature that must attack each turn, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failure to maintain game state - This is the special fifth group, which is the warning a player gets for not noticing that the opponent made a game error.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MtG Tournment Rules&lt;/a&gt; note the following regarding shortcuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament Shortcuts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A tournament shortcut is an action taken by players to skip parts of the technical play sequence without explicitly announcing them. Tournament shortcuts are essential for the smooth play of a game, as they allow players to play in a clear fashion without getting bogged down in the minutia of the rules. Most tournament shortcuts involve skipping one or more priority passes to the mutual understanding of all players; &lt;strong&gt;if a player wishes to demonstrate or use a new tournament shortcut entailing any number of priority passes, he or she must be clear where the game state will end up as part of the request&lt;/strong&gt;. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player is not allowed to use a previously undeclared tournament shortcut, or to modify an in-use tournament shortcut without announcing the modification, in order to create ambiguity in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You opponent used a &lt;strong&gt;Tournament Shortcut&lt;/strong&gt; that was previously undeclared. They should have informed you that they wished to proceed to the &lt;strong&gt;Draw Step&lt;/strong&gt;, possibly by saying, &amp;quot;Draw step? I wish to skip the Upkeep Step and proceed to the Draw Step.&amp;quot; You failed to maintain the game state, by not being quick enough to interrupt your opponents draw in the time your opponent untapped and waited an additional 2-3 seconds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player may not request priority and take no action with it. If a player decides he or she does not wish to do anything, the request is nullified and priority is returned to the player that originally had it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should not request priority during your opponents Upkeep unless you plan to take an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain conventional tournament shortcuts used in Magic are detailed below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The statement &amp;quot;Go&amp;quot; (and equivalents such as &amp;quot;Your turn&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Done&amp;quot;) offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the end step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A judge could issue you both a &lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt;. Your opponent needs to explain that they want to proceed to the Draw Step. You need to maintain the game state so your opponents errors are caught early before they can give you/him an advantage. Additional remedies are also a possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Remedies&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the error was discovered within a time frame in which a player could reasonably be expected to notice the error and the situation is simple enough to safely back up without too much disruption to the course of the game, the judge may get permission from the Head Judge to back up the game to the point of the error. Each action taken is undone until the game reaches the point immediately prior to the error. Cards incorrectly placed in hand are returned to the location in the zone from which they were moved (if the identity of the incorrectly drawn card is not known to all players, a random card is returned instead). Once the game is backed up, it continues from that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, you might want to take a little longer before you announce, &amp;quot;Your Turn,&amp;quot; until you have decided whether you want to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Short&quot;&gt;Mana Short&lt;/a&gt; next turn during your opponent's Upkeep. This way you can interrupt them when they reach for their deck, and not give them any advantage (if they have a &lt;strong&gt;Split Second&lt;/strong&gt; card) nor you an advantage if a judge decides to return a random card to the top of their library (possibly a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;). Repeatedly receiving warnings for the same violation (skipping an upkeep, or failing to maintain the game state by not interrupting a draw) can result in an upgraded penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T06:14:07.810" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14457" CreationDate="2014-01-31T09:16:32.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers to this question are very detailed calling on the comprehensive rules and are quite clear. I have had this problem in a tournament situation, and a judge was called to resolve the situation, Obviously this is anecdotal evidence but the judge was a level 2 and quite experienced running tournaments, so I would be surprised if their decision was incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Situation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a competitive REL legacy tournament, I was playing Goblins (probably badly), My opponent was playing an early incarnation of an esper stoneblade deck (this was around the time &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%20the%20Mindsculptor&quot;&gt;Jace the Mindsculptor&lt;/a&gt; got banned in standard, people werent sure Stoneblade was good enough for legacy yet). The game was going long, We each had large amounts of mana and I was trying to preserve my resources as much as possible as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pernicious%20Deed&quot;&gt;Pernicious Deed&lt;/a&gt; was on the field. As such I was using my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rishadan%20Port&quot;&gt;Rishadan Port&lt;/a&gt; every turn to try and limit my opponent's choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent had a nasty habit of not giving me much time to interrupt the start of his turn to tap one of his lands. Eventually we got into the situation where he managed to draw his card before I had an opportunity to activate my ability. This was problematic for obvious reasons, I don't want him to be able to use that mana to cast the card he just drew. A judge was called and the situation was explained to them from both of our perspectives. I made clear that this was something I had been doing numerous times, and that I felt I didn't have enough time between untap and draw to announce my ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Resolution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The judge decided that what had occurred was a case of &lt;strong&gt;Out Of Order Sequencing&lt;/strong&gt;. As such, the resolution was to tap his land, he was not permitted to tap it to generate mana to cast any instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the above as evidence, I would expect in a similar situation, you may well get the same result. I don't remember either of us getting any kind of warning, but obviously all of this is contingent on the judge on the day, who could make a very different decision from the one the judge made in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T09:16:32.397" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:12:38.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could you not use a standard deck of cards, paste paper printouts on them, and then sleeve &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T17:12:38.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14469" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:36:46.153" Score="10" ViewCount="3789" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snare! says ,&quot;If accessed from R&amp;amp;D the runner must reveal it&quot;. It then allows the corp to pay 4 credits to give 3 net damage and add a tag. It also mentions to ignore this affect if Snare! is accessed from Archives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This confuses me a little because I am not sure what to do if the card is accessed from a remote server or from HQ. Do you still get the option to give damage and a tag if it is accessed? Why then would it specifically mention R&amp;amp;D if there is no difference than HQ or a remote server? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T04:38:51.487" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T04:38:51.487" Title="How does Snare! work in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:39:44.860" Score="2" ViewCount="25540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadowborn%20Demon&quot;&gt;Shadowborn Demon&lt;/a&gt; and I was a little curious about the description of it. It specifically says &amp;quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, if there are fewer than six creature cards in your graveyard, sacrifice a creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what I was wondering is, do I have to sacrifice my own creature? Or can I try and keep less than six creatures in my graveyard and sacrifice an opponent's creature every upkeep? Since it does specifically says &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; creature&amp;quot; — it does not say &amp;quot;your creature&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;a creature you control.&amp;quot; Most cards that have a sacrifice involved are extremely specific about that and will say &amp;quot;your creature&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;a creature you control&amp;quot; if it wants you to sacrifice your own creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6763" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T17:50:51.870" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T17:50:51.870" Title="Can I sacrifice an opponent's creature to Shadowborn Demon?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14467" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:47:53.670" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot sacrifice a creature you do not control. The rule on sacrifice, 701.14a says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. &lt;strong&gt;A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control&lt;/strong&gt;. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a common sense point of view, getting rid of something that's not yours isn't really a &lt;em&gt;sacrifice&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T17:47:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14466" CreationDate="2014-01-31T17:50:15.990" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally the Corp doesn't get to see what cards the runner accesses from R&amp;amp;D. This would mean the corp wouldn't know they could spend 4C to deal the damage! When accessed from HQ or a remote server, the Corp already knows what the card is, and so can pay 4C to deal the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By making the runner reveal the card when accessed from R&amp;amp;D, the corp gets a chance to choose to use the ability on Snare!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect triggers when accessed from anywhere other than archives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T17:50:15.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14470" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-01-31T18:17:00.987" Score="3" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cold contract usually means that a contract, which makes on most reasonable lines, as the cards lie. You hear people say, &quot;He managed to find a line to go down in a cold contract&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: the meaning could slightly differ based on region etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious, how this term came into being. There is a past BBO forums thread: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/topic/43444-what-is-a-cold-contract/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/topic/43444-what-is-a-cold-contract/&lt;/a&gt; but that does not seem to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the origin of this term?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T11:20:17.087" Title="Cold contract in bridge" Tags="|bridge|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14470" CreationDate="2014-01-31T19:28:41.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Official_Encyclopedia_of_Bridge#Sixth_edition_-_2001&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Encyclopedia of Bridge, 6th Edition (2001)&lt;/a&gt; lists:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold contract:&lt;/strong&gt; Bridge slang for an easily makeable contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Merriam Webster's Collegiate Dictionary, 8th Edition&lt;/em&gt; (c 1980) lists as sense &lt;strong&gt;5 b&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold&lt;/strong&gt;: certain, sure &lt;em&gt;viz&lt;/em&gt; The actors knew their lines cold a week before opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OED Compact Edition (1928) does not list any comparable sense for the word &lt;em&gt;cold&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-01-31T19:44:53.530" LastActivityDate="2014-01-31T19:44:53.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7771" CreationDate="2014-02-01T01:56:36.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually setting up the 'quarter board' is hard to do on a 19x19 board.&#xA;Most people use a small board specifically made for the size, or make their own.&#xA;It is possible to crop an area from the large board, but this can be inconvenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for learning on one, I feel Pieter Geerkens comment is quite correct. 13x13 gives a more balanced vision of the game than 9x9. 19x19 is too large, 9x9 is too small, but good to introduce the rules with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the player has the basic rules down 100% on 13x13 then 19x19 becomes more interesting. &#xA;After some years playing primarily 19x19, I've gone back to 9x9 and 13x13 to improve my life and death techniques and starting moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastEditorUserId="6767" LastEditDate="2014-02-01T02:29:36.037" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T02:29:36.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14470" CreationDate="2014-02-01T11:20:17.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The OED does have a related sense: &#xA;'Without preparation, preliminary performance, etc. Usu. quasi-adv.&#xA;1896.. &quot;I'm an easy runner till it comes to the high jump and then I quit cold.&quot;'&#xA;It was also apparently used between the wars for plays that opened without a preliminary tryout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So perhaps a contract that can be made without any preliminary setting up, or having to decide which course is better,  fits the description. If you want a more precise answer you could ask on &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;English.SE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:09.400" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T11:20:17.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14460" CreationDate="2014-02-01T12:22:38.490" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two ways of playing Monopoly: I find them considerably more different than, say, Chess and Draughts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is the commoner, a family game played to fill in the hours till bedtime. Everybody knows that Emily will cry if she loses, so the Bank provides regular subsidies.  If there are no losers, there can be no winners, so the aim becomes 'to build up a pretty-looking property portfolio': if the supply of houses and hotels runs out, something else is used instead. This is pretty much a game for the feebleminded, and with more than five players there are not enough properties for everybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second is played among adults, with &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; house rules.  Being a simulation of unbridled capitalism, the aim is to bankrupt your competition. So you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; trade another player the card to make up a monopoly unless a) you get a monopoly, or something equally valuable, in return or b) you think the other player is overstretched: for example, if he has to pay rent before somebody pays him, he will have to mortgage the newly acquired monopoly, losing the right to build houses, and starting on a downward spiral.  This can certainly be played with eight players, though the tactics change drastically as the number of players goes up, and you will probably lose the first time you play an x-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forgoing any political comparisons, I remark only that it is strange that the players who object to Monopoly as a children's game that never finishes are usually the ones who insist on altering the rules to make it less painful, which means it lasts longer and your decisions are less important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T12:22:38.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14460" CreationDate="2014-02-01T22:16:16.900" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board Game Geek has some &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/491/monopoly/sessions&quot;&gt;session reports for Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with having more players is that starting order becomes increasingly important as you add more players. If you're going 6th, 7th or 8th then your chances of landing on an unowned property are very low. You're pretty much screwed from the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-02-01T22:16:16.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14477" CreationDate="2014-02-01T22:59:32.820" Score="4" ViewCount="5699" Body="&lt;p&gt;Android netrunner has a seemingly endless and complex set of rules. I was hoping to get a clarification on how accessing a remote server works. In the rules it states you get access to all cards when accessing the server. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say we have a server with two upgrades, one of which prevents me from getting the third card - an agenda. Even though I can't get the card I want, can I still trash the other cards in the server? Can I trash any/all of them if possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance and thanks to all the others who have already answered my netrunner questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T14:25:44.210" Title="What are the rules when accessing a remote server with upgrades?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14476" CreationDate="2014-02-02T14:25:44.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When accessing multiple cards (this is the heading you are looking for in the manual, page 18), you access one at a time. So you can't look at both upgrades and the asset and then decide which to trash. You pick one at random, decide to trash or leave it, then move on to the next. You get to access all the cards in the server but only one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the relevant page from the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When accessing multiple cards, the Runner accesses them &lt;strong&gt;one at a time&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  *&lt;em&gt;in any order he likes&lt;/em&gt;*. For example, the Runner may access a card from&#xA;  HQ, then an upgrade installed in the root of HQ, and then another card&#xA;  from HQ, if he has the ability to do so. When accessing multiple cards&#xA;  from R&amp;amp;D, the Runner must draw them in order from the top of the deck,&#xA;  and must return any cards not scored or trashed in reverse order, so&#xA;  as to preserve their positions in R&amp;amp;D. &lt;strong&gt;The Runner must fully resolve&#xA;  his access to a card (steal it, pay to trash it, etc.) before&#xA;  accessing the next card.&lt;/strong&gt; If the Runner scores an agenda that gives him&#xA;  seven or more points, he immediately wins the game, even if he would&#xA;  otherwise access more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if there is an agenda in a remote server, but also a trap and you access the trap first... it is possible to get flatlined before you win from the stolen/scored agenda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-02-02T14:25:44.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14479" CreationDate="2014-02-02T23:56:01.013" Score="11" ViewCount="6991" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loyal%20Pegasus&quot;&gt;Loyal Pegasus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogg%20Flunkies&quot;&gt;Mogg Flunkies&lt;/a&gt; feature the rules text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Card name&lt;/em&gt; can't attack or block alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For attacking, this is unambiguous; the creature can only attack if another attacker is also declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For blocking, which of the following is the case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature can only be declared as a blocker if blocking &lt;em&gt;the same creature&lt;/em&gt; as another blocker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature can only be declared as a blocker if any other creature is also declared as a blocker, &lt;em&gt;regardless of what that creature is blocking&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T13:20:55.010" LastActivityDate="2019-07-09T22:42:36.257" Title="What exactly does &quot;can't attack/block alone&quot; mean?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14478" CreationDate="2014-02-03T00:35:34.177" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules Glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Block Alone&lt;/strong&gt; A creature “blocks alone” if it’s the only creature&#xA;  declared as a blocker during the declare blockers step. A creature “is&#xA;  blocking alone” if it’s blocking but no other creatures are. See rule&#xA;  506.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's your second option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T10:34:22.770" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T10:34:22.770" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14287" CreationDate="2014-02-03T03:17:36.293" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playings as more than one player, in my opinion, is the worst of the options you mention since it's prone to be affected by the fact that you know what the other player has and wants to do. It's a good way to learn a game, but no very entertaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designing challenges, may be suited for just a bunch of games. Most often, the game is a linear sequence where you have to achieve something or a few things, may be balance those few things or focus on a big one, so setting challenges will take the dummy player out of the game since it's timing would off most of the time. Plus you could adapt to what the dummy player has to do in order to be ahead and take advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, designing an AI, Jon mentioned, is a great way to get to know the game, I wouldn't do it immediately, but after a few plays simulating a second player, may be even a third player. Yes three players could be too much, but remember, the idea is not to win the game, but to discover how to create an interesting and challenging opponent. I have done this a few times with more or less success and when you pass the boredom of forcing yourself to try things for each player even when you know it's not a good play, you end up with a good set of elements to &quot;build&quot; a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may try first with games that you know well and if your fiancee usually plays in one way, you can start replicating that, and adding some alternatives here and there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3405" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T03:17:36.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14482" CreationDate="2014-02-03T03:52:27.393" Score="1" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to how a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; works. I'm not sure if the effect on it is a one shot effect, a continuous effect, or something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess, I think it works as follows: When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; (legally) resolves, a one shot effect is enacted. This one shot effect generates a continuous effect that lasts until end of turn and while the continuous effect lasts, the continuous effect gives the targeted creature gets +3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can one clarify as to whether or not I am correct, or if not, explain what really happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2209" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T06:33:33.003" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T21:45:46.547" Title="Do cards like Giant Growth create a one-shot or continuous effect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14481" CreationDate="2014-02-03T04:11:11.953" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite correct. It is just a simple continuous effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects &#xA;  players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2. A continuous effect may be generated by the resolution of a spell or ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Giant Grown resolving generates a continuous effect. No one-shot effect happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;610.1. A one-shot effect does something just once and doesn’t have a duration. Examples include dealing damage, destruction a permanent, putting a token onto the battlefield, and moving an object from one zone to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Getting +3/+3&quot; is a continuous effect, not something that just happens at one moment in time. This can also be seen in the examples listed under the Continuous Effects section of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2c ... Example: An effect that reads &quot;All white creatures get +1/+1 until end of turn&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T04:11:11.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9260" CreationDate="2014-02-03T11:01:38.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way not mentioned by @Bazzz is to keep an eye out for when people make rockfall spots.&#xA;As a Saboteur, it's useful to place paths in a way which you can claim to be good for the diggers, but with the real reason being that with a correctly timed and placed rockfall, the gap is harder to fill. Call out people who create these spots and encourage actual diggers not to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something new players often have trouble grasping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This flowchart is how a computer AI would decide(from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ai.rug.nl/mas/finishedprojects/2012/saboteurs/eric.svcover.nl/MAS2012/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;), but is pretty useless  to humans. I'm just putting it here because I thought it was kind of cool: &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEtRG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-02-03T13:39:47.280" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T13:39:47.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14481" CreationDate="2014-02-03T13:58:38.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Effects don't create continuous effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2. A continuous effect may be generated by the resolution of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities create effects. Giant Growth has a &lt;em&gt;spell ability&lt;/em&gt; that creates a continuous effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3a Spell abilities are abilities that are followed as instructions while an instant or sorcery spell is resolving. Any text on an instant or sorcery spell is a spell ability unless it’s an activated ability, a triggered ability, or a static ability that fits the criteria described in rule 112.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to think &amp;quot;one-shot effect&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;spell ability&amp;quot;, but that's not correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does the spell have a one-shot effect or does it create a continuous effect? It definitely creates a continuous effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;610.1. A one-shot effect does something just once and &lt;strong&gt;doesn’t have a duration&lt;/strong&gt;. Examples include dealing damage, destroying a permanent, putting a token onto the battlefield, and moving an object from one zone to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, &lt;strong&gt;for a fixed or indefinite period&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T21:45:46.547" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13565" CreationDate="2014-02-03T21:57:42.173" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Again, not an RSS feed, but ... one of my favorite sources of chess puzzles is &lt;a href=&quot;http://ChessTempo.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ChessTempo.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much like chess.com, but doesn't have the 3 puzzle/day limit.  Also has endgame technique puzzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6783" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T21:57:42.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14486" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14528" CreationDate="2014-02-03T22:06:41.143" Score="4" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning how to play Backgammon with GNU Backgammon and I noticed that the hints sometimes give better odds for a move WITHOUT a hit. Can anybody explain this for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Cubeful 2-ply    13/7                         MWC:  88.89%&#xA;   0.889 0.294 0.022 - 0.111 0.006 0.000&#xA;    2-ply cubeful prune [world class]&#xA;2. Cubeful 2-ply    13/12*/7                     MWC:  87.11% ( -1.78%)&#xA;   0.871 0.457 0.048 - 0.129 0.005 0.000&#xA;    2-ply cubeful prune [world class]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6785" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T22:28:50.627" Title="Is it ever better pass and not hit in backgammon?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12030" CreationDate="2014-02-03T23:31:30.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that if one was betting table minimum and the other max bet x 2 or or close to it, with the small player in front of the gorilla, taking advantage of the count if they know it, and trying to hole card the dealer, they could make a decent living.  The ideal situation would be the gorilla playing 5/6 with the small player at 4.  The small  player would try to act like a hunch or amatur player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is going to work at only the lowest of venues as any decent surveillance operator is going to see right through it even if they try to cap black with green or red, and have more than one stooge to be the small player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6788" LastActivityDate="2014-02-03T23:31:30.127" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14488" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T00:35:39.263" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the big box Dominion which includes Prosperity and Alchemy. It came with randomizer (purple-backed distinct) cards for curses and coins. What are these used for? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the Kingdom randomizer cards can be used for playing with unknown Kingdom cards sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T00:35:39.263" Title="What do I use the curse and coin randomizer cards for?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-02-04T01:23:32.503" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T01:27:29.850" Score="3" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;Femme fatale costs 9 to install and I am struggling to figure out why it costs so much. The card has the ability to render a piece of ice fairly useless by allowing you to break its subroutines by paying one coin. However, I can also do that with other, cheaper, better icebreakers. I am just a little confused on why it costs 9. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6437" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T01:41:49.723" Title="Why is Femme Fatale so expensive to install?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14489" CreationDate="2014-02-04T01:41:49.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly I think that ability is just the answer. It's a decent sentry icebreaker (filling a slot, albeit at a high cost), but a great counter to ice like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=t:ICE%20p%3E5%20d:c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;. Just imagine Corp plays a Wotan, and suddenly you bust out a Femme Fatale. Anyway, you probably don't want to use FF anyway without some sort of ability to help you install it cheaper. :)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIPWx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Femme Fatale card image&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wMudU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T01:41:49.723" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8124" CreationDate="2014-02-04T02:14:11.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm also working on a custom Fluxx deck, have done a little research, www.makeplayingcards.com has a lot of customization options. Not sure they are the cheapest (but you can order a single deck if you want, $12 for 54 cards), but was referred by a friend who says quality is good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Johno, would be interested in comparing notes on custom Fluxx decks...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6790" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T02:14:11.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12030" CreationDate="2014-02-04T06:27:26.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at it purely mathematically, given that there is no hidden information, there is no difference between a &quot;team&quot; of blackjack players playing as you describe, and one player playing multiple hands. So why don't card counters typically recommend playing multiple hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card counting works because the player's winrate is dependent on the distribution of cards &lt;em&gt;remaining in the deck&lt;/em&gt;. Most of a card counter's edge comes from adjusting their bet before the hand is dealt. Playing multiple hands means getting &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; information between placing bets, not more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that one player could alter their playing strategy based on the results of another player's hits, but there are some serious problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're talking about the information gained from the dealer's hole card, this is unaffected by your decision to &quot;collude&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The times when the probabilities seriously change based on the turn of one or two cards, the shoe is probably marginal so you should be betting near the lower end of your spread anyway&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flagrantly altering your strategy based on a card count is so obvious a card counting flag that even card counters will often advise against doing it, especially given that the edge will be marginal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T06:27:26.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14493" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-04T13:55:59.087" Score="5" ViewCount="6377" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could use multiple items and spells in one action. The rules say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although an investigator cannot perform a component action &#xA;  from a single component more than once each round, he can &#xA;  perform component actions of different components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess the question is: &quot;what is an component?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a few combinations I would like to clarify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start action phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed the Mind (ritual spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blessing of Isis (ritual spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynamite (item - weapon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holy water (item magical)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End action phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start action phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blessing of Isis (ritual spell - I gain an Blessing) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holy water (I gain another condition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then flip my first received Blessing and resolve it(since I can not have two conditions) and put the last received Blessing in the back of the deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;End action phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question I was wondering about was &quot;preventing&quot;. Bandages and Whiskey state you can prevent an investigator from losing health or sanity. It's not an action so I must (?) use this during the encounter phase but do I have to use it before the other investigator (or myself) starts the fight? (that seems weird). Or can I use it when an investigator on my spot loses a strength/will test even if it's not my encounter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes with the Flesh Ward spell, can I cast it during someone else's encounter phase to prevent them form taking damage? Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John is on the same space as me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John has 3 health and 4 sanity left and is on a space with a Goat Spawn and a Skeleton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the previous encounter John did one damage to the Goat Spawn (leaving it with one toughness) and none to the Skeleton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This encounter John encounters the Goat Spawn first and rolls 1 success reducing the toughness of the Goat Spawn to 0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does John still take one damage because his damage was lower than that of the Goat Spawn allthought John did kill it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If John takes damage can I then use my Bandage/Whiskey/Flesh Ward spell on him negating the effects of losing health and sanity?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John then rolls 4 success during the fight with the Skeleton and kills it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the combat encounters John does a clue encounter in which he loses 1 health. Does the Bandage/Flesh Ward still work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it more like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John is on the same space as me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John has 3 health and 4 sanity left and is on a space with a Goat Spawn and a Skeleton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the previous encounter John did one damage to the Goat Spawn (leaving it with one toughness) and none to the Skeleton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I discard my Bandages and Whiskey so if John takes 2 damage or loses 2 sanity he actually won't. But I discard my cards none the less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To make sure John won't die I also cast my Flesh Ward on him with a success of three.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This encounter John encounters the Goat Spawn first and rolls 1 success reducing the toughness of the Goat Spawn to 0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does John still take one damage because his damage was lower than that of the Goat Spawn allthought John did kill it. Obviously my Bandages and Flesh Ward spell prevent him from actually taking the damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;John then rolls 4 success during the fight with the Skeleton and kills it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the combat encounters John does a clue encounter in which he loses 1 health. Does the Bandage/Flesh Ward still work?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game has so many variables to combine that it's hard to keep track of what is possible and what isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6794" LastEditorUserId="3594" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T04:44:57.063" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T16:17:54.777" Title="Can I use multiple items and spells in one action?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14486" CreationDate="2014-02-04T19:35:28.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if My backgammon terminology is weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hit a piece that's in the quarter of the board that you're trying to get your pieces to [your own home board], then you effectively set them back a few spaces  less than 6.  But at that point, they can potentially roll and hit one of your guys in the same quarter, which can set you back up to 20 spaces, which is a disadvantage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and it doesn't even matter if its on that part of the board.  Sometimes, to hit one of their pieces, you leave 1 or even 2 of your pieces vulnerable for them to hit(potentially in a way that doesn't leave them vulnerable)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T22:28:50.627" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T22:28:50.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12030" CreationDate="2014-02-04T20:43:00.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you break it down statistically and you're dealing with someone who can card-count, ace-track, shuffle-track, and perform / maintain a running tally of any other relevant factor in the game, it will always be to their advantage to be in control of as many hands as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing on a team allows for a single mindset or approach to be taken towards every position on the table. Because a professional card counter is very 'informed' of the state of the remaining deck, they want to be able to manipulate the way those cards are dealt to the players as much as possible. This is why they would want to play every position on the table, as long as it doesn't interfere with their ability to count. Because of casino policies this may not be possible without having teammates who are under your 'command' and play the hands that you are not able to safely play without being asked to leave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T20:43:00.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14517" CreationDate="2014-02-04T22:23:50.610" Score="3" ViewCount="868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to get a board printed for a game I'm making. Are there any companies/websites that can provide this service relatively cheaply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, each board would cost $5 or less. The material only needs to last long enough for people to understand how the game works, and this is only for small scale production and sale of 100 units or so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board is a two-sided board for a card-based game, and it can either be one foldable piece or two pieces. The cards will be &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/13877/&quot;&gt;poker size&lt;/a&gt;, and the board should be at minimum six card slots across in dimension, meaning at least 381mm wide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6802" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T15:00:02.217" Title="Where can I find a printer for a budget game board?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14486" CreationDate="2014-02-04T22:36:23.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your own home board it is often unwise to hit blots unless you can point on them. Leaving two blots in your home board with enemy stones on the bar approaches suicidal in all circumstances I can conceive of just now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-02-04T22:36:23.717" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14503" CreationDate="2014-02-05T02:11:56.437" Score="3" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording on Bear Hug states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each other player destroys his or her minion with the least power&#xA;  (owner chooses in case of ties).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording on Incorporeal states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play on one of your minions.  Ongoing: This minion is not affected by&#xA;  other players' cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Bear Hug force a player to destroy a minion that has Incorporeal played on it if it is the lowest power minion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because my game group came up with two separate interpretations of the rule.  The first interpretation was that Bear Hug doesn't affect the minion because Bear Hug is a card and has no effect against the Incorporeal minion due to the wording of &quot;other players' cards.&quot;  The other interpretation is that Bear Hug &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; force the player to destroy the Incorporeal minion since Bear Hug is played on the player and not the minion directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something in the rules that can clarify this or at least a general consensus from some official forums?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3594" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T00:22:54.847" Title="Can Bear Hug force a player to destroy an Incorporeal minion?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14498" CreationDate="2014-02-05T02:38:55.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To put it more succinctly, the question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does &quot;causing a player to destroy a card&quot; count as &quot;affecting a card&quot;?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules define affecting as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Affect: A card is affected if it is moved, returned, destroyed, or has an action attached. (pg 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By a strict reading of the rules, no, that's one one of the actions listed within the definition of &quot;affect&quot;. This is what you call &quot;the first interpretation&quot;. But I don't think that's the correct answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strict reading of rules is &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt;'s domain. In &lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt;, whether a card says &quot;deal X damage to Y&quot; or &quot;enchanted creature deals X damage to Y&quot; matters to stuff that check the source of damage such as Protection&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Smash Up&lt;/em&gt; isn't nearly so complex. It doesn't have the breadth of mechanics &lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; has. You have take a much looser approach to interpreting the rules. I don't believe there's any intention to have a distinction between a card performing action and a card having a player perform an action. Things are meant to be simple, and the simple interpretation is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There would be no destruction without Bear Hug, so Bear Hug is attempting to affect the Incorporeal Minion.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the Incorporeal Minion is protected. It's hard to hug something incorporeal. While I understand those who think otherwise, I don't think the wording of &lt;em&gt;Smash Up&lt;/em&gt; cards should be taken so literally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That said, nothing nothing in &lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; checks the source of Destruction since Protection was greatly limited eons ago.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T00:22:54.847" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T00:22:54.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14501" CreationDate="2014-02-05T03:31:08.847" Score="10" ViewCount="1283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krasis%20Incubation&quot;&gt;Krasis Incubation&lt;/a&gt; enchanting my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Floodtide%20Serpent&quot;&gt;Floodtide Serpent&lt;/a&gt;. My mana pool is empty and I have no way to gain more mana this turn. The only enchantment I control is Krasis Incubation. Floodtide Serpent does not have summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I attack with Floodtide Serpent by returning Incubation Krasis to my hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what I have found so far, to help you guys answer my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Declare_attackers_step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 508&lt;/a&gt; describes the declare attackers step in depth. 508.1 is broken down into a few steps. Here are the parts I found to be relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1c&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The game checks for &lt;em&gt;restrictions&lt;/em&gt;. Floodtide Serpent has a restriction that I am disobeying. Krasis Incubation has a restriction that I am disobeying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1d&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The game checks for &lt;em&gt;requirements&lt;/em&gt;. I have none.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1g-i&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I determine my total cost for attacking. I bounce Krasis Incubation to pay this cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game backs up at 508.1c, then Floodtide Serpent cannot attack. However, if this is the case, it would appear that Floodtide Serpent could &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be allowed to attack, because his cost can &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be paid prior to reaching 508.1g-i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is that he cannot attack with Krasis Incubation, then I couldn't describe any situation in which he could attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T15:58:55.390" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T20:27:33.787" Title="Floodtide Serpent and Can't Attack Enchantments" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14500" CreationDate="2014-02-05T03:42:52.090" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this situation, the Floodtide Serpent &lt;strong&gt;cannot attack&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this situation, the most important quote (from 508.1) is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;strong&gt;at any point during the declaration of attackers&lt;/strong&gt;, the active player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of 508.1c says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of attackers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once you got to the point that you are disobeying the restriction from Incubation Krasis, the attack is illegal and the game returns to the moment before declaration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Incubation Krasis was instead enchanting a different creature and you try to attack with, then when we get to 508.1c, it is not restricting Floodtide Serpent's ability to attack. Then when we get to 508.1g, you determine that the cost of attacking is returning one enchantment you control to its owner's hand. Then when you get to 508.1i, you pay that cost by returning Incubation Krasis to your hand. Then Floodtide Serpent becomes an attacking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the text on Floodtide Serpent &lt;strong&gt;is not a restriction&lt;/strong&gt;, it is a cost. The difference is that restrictions have the form &amp;quot;This creature can't attack&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;This creature can't attack unless [some true/false statement about game state]&amp;quot;, while attack costs have the form &amp;quot;This creature can't attack unless [you do something]&amp;quot;. It wouldn't make sense to count those costs as restrictions because then every attack with an additional cost &lt;em&gt;would have already failed&lt;/em&gt; at 508.1c. That would make cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Propaganda&quot;&gt;Propaganda&lt;/a&gt; nonsensical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T18:05:51.967" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T18:05:51.967" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2014-02-05T05:10:34.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First I have current standard in separate boxes. They are separated by block then color then alphabetical order. After rotation commons and uncommons get separated by color then alphabetical order in penny sleeves in groups of 4 (playsets). If I have more then 2 playsets of a given card from the same set.. it gets trashed or given away. I do all my deck building on gatherer this makes it easy to find anything in my collection.  All rares go into binders by color and alphabetical order. Standard rares in a separate binders by block and color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6804" LastEditorUserId="6804" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T05:21:51.887" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T05:21:51.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14498" CreationDate="2014-02-05T07:21:38.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bear Hug cannot destroy an Incorporeal Minion.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First to correct some termiology. &lt;strong&gt;Bear Hug&lt;/strong&gt; is not played &amp;quot;on a player,&amp;quot; it is simply played. Cards that are played on something will use the word &lt;strong&gt;Attach&lt;/strong&gt;, and to my knowledge no cards Attach to players. Secondly, the Bear Hug card is destroying the Minion, the instructions on the card informing you &lt;strong&gt;which&lt;/strong&gt; Minions need to be destroyed (Each other player's, with the least Power). Players do not affect cards, because nothing in the rules says they do. Cards do affect other cards if they move, return, destroy, or attach to another card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules state&lt;/a&gt; the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Affect: A card is affected if it is moved, returned, &lt;strong&gt;destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;, or has an action attached. (pg 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cards conflict, the one that says you &lt;strong&gt;can't do something&lt;/strong&gt; beats the one that says you can. (pg 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Incorporeal&lt;/strong&gt; prevents the attached Minion from being affected, so &lt;strong&gt;Bear Hug&lt;/strong&gt; cannot affect (destroy) the Incorporeal Minion if it is played by an opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hasn't showed up in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/08/SU-FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, but one of the designers, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/46012/mark-wootton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Wootton&lt;/a&gt;, noted that &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/13559122#13559122&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Incorporeal protects a Minion from Poison&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T16:32:10.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14504" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-05T08:38:31.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;I'm the King of Boggle there is none higher, I get eleven points off the word quagmire&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &amp;ndash; Beastie Boys, &quot;Putting Shame in Your Game&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boggle is a word game where players attempt to find words in sequences of adjacent letters on a 4x4 grid. The grid is populated by lettered dice, each containing one letter on every side, except for the combination 'QU' which is printed as a combination on one side of one of the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spin offs include a TV game show and a mobile app, &lt;em&gt;Ruzzle&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T09:59:23.020" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T09:59:23.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14505" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-05T08:38:31.993" Score="0" Body="Boggle is a word game where players attempt to find words in sequences of adjacent letters on a 4x4 grid.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-05T09:58:09.297" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T09:58:09.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8239" CreationDate="2014-02-05T18:10:22.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the US, check the Container Store. They certainly have simple boxes that work for prototypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5585" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T18:10:22.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14496" CreationDate="2014-02-05T18:38:09.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taken from an answer to another question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8239/board-game-boxes&quot;&gt;Board game boxes&lt;/a&gt;)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamedesign.com/pages/goshopping.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamedesign.com/pages/goshopping.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm behind a firewall and can't find other links, but this at least seems like a start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T18:38:09.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-05T21:30:02.527" Score="3" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a hand like ♠ Axxx ♡ KQxx ♢ Kxxx ♣ x, I would gladly make a takeout double over one club. That's because my partner would have a choice of three suits to bid at the one level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the hand so that the (singleton and bid) were in spades: ♠ x ♡ KQxx ♢ Kxxx ♣ Axxx. Now, if I make a takeout double, partner would have to respond in a suit at the TWO level, possibly with as little as ♠ xxxx ♡ xxx ♢ xxx ♣ xxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, I would double one spade (reluctantly) if not vulnerable versus vulnerable, and pass otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Opposite a &amp;quot;Yarborough,&amp;quot; I expect my hand to be worth five tricks on offense. Thus, I am willing for my partner to contract for seven tricks but not eight, thereby &amp;quot;overbidding&amp;quot; by two tricks, but not three, with equal vulnerability, against the opponents' presumed game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does one need to be more careful about takeout doubles over a spade bid than a minor suit? That is to say, is my reluctance to risk down three well founded, meaning that I have &amp;quot;drawn the line&amp;quot; in a good place? A &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baronbarclay.com/product/dailybridgecolumn40613/April2013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;certain expert&lt;/a&gt; seems to think so (in the daily question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is for rubber bridge; duplicate is a different animal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="22080" LastEditDate="2022-09-22T14:09:50.293" LastActivityDate="2022-09-22T14:09:50.293" Title="In bridge, should you be more careful with takeout doubles over one spade?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14509" CreationDate="2014-02-05T22:13:23.777" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your partner has as little as that, your opponents are easily making 3NT and will find it difficult to double your side for penalties (low-level doubles are almost all for takeout these days). However, if your partner has as much as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;xxx JTxxx AQx Kx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(and your partner might well hold that much even as a passed hand), &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; side can make 5H and your partner will be unable to bid over the 2S call that is no doubt coming from your LHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the answer to your question is that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; double with an opening hand and shortness in the suit opened by your RHO. If your partner has so little that a 2-level contract is going down, you may prevent opponents from finding their best game. If, as is more likely, your partner has enough to make a part-score, you need to get into the auction to avoid handing free plus-scores to your opponents. Finally, if your partner has enough values to get your side to game but lacks the shape to enter the auction (not the most likely outcome after opponents have opened, but not particularly unlikely either), you are doing your side a great disservice by failing to double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-02-05T22:13:23.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-02-06T02:25:51.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the few games I have played I find that Robots seems like a very over powered deck.  Robot Zombie was a winner, Robot Steampunk was a winner.  Avoid Ghost Ninja.  The deck doesn't work together well at all!  In fact, I think Ghost doesn't work well with almost any of the other factions, but that might just be from my experience.  Also, try to avoid pairing factions that seem to alike such as Bear Calvary and Pirates.  You tend to have fewer options to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6812" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T02:25:51.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12630" CreationDate="2014-02-06T05:00:27.930" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;calculate the odds, seek for on line poker odds  calculator, i think it should not pose a problem. But I think it is necessary to include it so the program will not crash. I would suggest the remainder to go into the next pot or a random generator pops up and notifys players of who gets it. Hm maybe it would be fair the remainder to go to BB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if there are rules about this, but haven't seen it yet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6814" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T05:00:27.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14514" CreationDate="2014-02-06T08:26:35.790" Score="7" ViewCount="10169" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an effect would put one 1/1 creature token onto the battlefield, and I control two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doubling%20Season&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt;s, how many tokens would be put into play? 3 or 4?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T08:42:14.070" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T22:22:19.943" Title="How do two Doubling Seasons affect each other?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14513" CreationDate="2014-02-06T08:43:21.057" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Four tokens will enter the battlefield. This is actually spelled out in a Ruling on Doubling Season:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10/1/2005: If there are two Doubling Seasons on the battlefield, then the number of tokens or counters is four times the original number. If there are three on the battlefield, then the number of tokens or counters is eight times the original number, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the token ability says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect would put one or more tokens onto the battlefield under your control, it puts twice that many of those tokens onto the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a replacement effect, so rather than merely responding to the effect that places a 1/1 creature token onto the battlefield (and adding one more), it completely replaces that effect with a new one that places twice as many tokens onto the battlefield. So it works out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first Doubling Season will replace the original effect, which places 1 token, with one that places 2 tokens instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second Doubling Season will then replace &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; effect with one that places 4 tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your effect finally puts tokens on the battlefield, you get 4 1/1 tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T22:22:19.943" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T22:22:19.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-06T11:37:33.557" Score="-6" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if we had a pair of dice for each player. 1 dice with positive values(1 to 6) and the other with negative values(-1 to -6) instead of both dice with positive values?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the player who rolls the dice will have to move forward for the positive dice and move backward for the negative dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can change the entire strategy of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6816" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T18:42:51.410" Title="Backgammon with negative value dice" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-02-07T14:50:43.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-06T13:10:02.170" Score="6" ViewCount="13957" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many classic children's board games, like Snakes and Ladder and Candyland, are essentially pure games of chance. Is it reasonable to regard Monopoly as a game of this type? How important is player skill (as opposed to luck) in Monopoly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6819" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T18:14:12.577" LastActivityDate="2021-01-20T18:09:24.243" Title="Does Monopoly involve skill to a considerable degree?" Tags="|monopoly|luck|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14496" CreationDate="2014-02-06T15:16:12.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try this site , they can produce a lot of material for board game and after you can even use their online store for the distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T15:16:12.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14525" CreationDate="2014-02-06T15:30:18.933" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Dreadnought&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Dreadnought&lt;/a&gt; on top of my graveyard, and I put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volrath%20Shapeshifter&quot;&gt;Volrath Shapeshifter&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield, will I have to sacrifice other creatures with the total power of 12 or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same question goes for using the shapeshifters activated ability to discard a Phyrexian dreadnaught from my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T15:36:28.110" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T17:44:10.367" Title="How does Phyrexian Dreadnought and Volrath's Shapeshifter interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14518" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:07:25.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the first question, yes, you will have to either sacrifice the Shapeshifter or Sacrifice other creatures. The Shapeshifter's static ability applies as it is entering the battlefield, so it is just like a Dreadnought is entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second question, the answer is no. The rulings of the Volrath Shapeshifter say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When it changes forms, any &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; abilities of the card it &quot;copies&quot; do not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature it becomes is not &quot;entering the battlefield&quot; because it is already on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:07:25.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14524" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:16:50.767" Score="4" ViewCount="1455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was surprised to see that the wording on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volrath%20Shapeshifter&quot;&gt;Volrath Shapeshifter&lt;/a&gt; is not just old card text, but the actual oracle wording. I am curious, why does it not simply copy the the other creature, and have that ability added?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the top card of your graveyard is a creature card, Volrath's Shapeshifter has the full text of that card and has the text &amp;quot;2: Discard a card.&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;(Volrath's Shapeshifter has that card's name, mana cost, color, types, abilities, power, and toughness.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;why isn't it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the top card of your graveyard is a creature card, Volrath's Shapeshifter is a copy of that card except it gains &amp;quot;2: Discard a card.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The latter wording is used by lots of cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evil%20Twin&quot;&gt;Evil Twin&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitor%20Mimic&quot;&gt;Progenitor Mimic&lt;/a&gt;. Is there a functional difference between the 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, I just now noticed that older version of the card DO use the &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; wording. So there must be a good reason for the change!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related question, what exactly happens when the top card of the graveyard changes? The wording &amp;quot;As long as the top card of your graveyard is a creature card...&amp;quot; was part of the original Shapeshifter, but it card no longer has that text once it takes the text of another creature. So what rules or text is there in the game that would cause it to change to another creature, or to change back to a 0/1 blue creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you discard &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt;, then the card on the battlefield is now simply a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; with the discard ability. No where in that card's new text does it say anything about changing to a different creature if the graveyard changes, so how does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings specifically say &amp;quot;A copy of a Volrath's Shapeshifter will have the shapeshifting ability&amp;quot;, but why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:55:16.447" Title="Wording on Volrath's Shapeshifter" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12520" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:18:48.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;At least in European tournaments current rule is that if you play an illegal move you have to take it back, and play a legal move. You don't lose the game by default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Illegal move&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player makes an illegal move, and if this is noticed within three moves, then the game should be unwound to the move just before the illegal move, and continued. The referee may allow an adjustment of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.eurogofed.org/egf/tourrules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;EGF general tournament rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6821" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T21:18:43.803" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2014-02-06T16:28:43.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes Google does wonders. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/23c&amp;amp;page=4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;January 2009 Update Bulletin&lt;/a&gt;, the oracle wording was changed because of the new layering system rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, Volrath's Shapeshifter. Sometimes when the rules are systemically changed for the betterment of the game as a whole, and for most cards in general, one or two cards get thrown under the bus. That's what happened to Volrath's Shapeshifter. When the continuous effect layer system was implemented, different kinds of continuous effects were broken out so they'd apply in a set sequence. It was determined that copy effects would apply before control-change effects because all existing cards—except one—would work that way. (Switching those layers to save Volrath's Shapeshifter is not an option; if we did, Copy Enchantment copying Confiscate, or Clone copying Sower of Temptation, to name a couple of more modern examples, would cease to work as you'd expect.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason Volrath's Shapeshifter breaks under the layer system is that it cares about the top card of its controller's graveyard—so its copy effect is dependent on who controls it. Say Player A controls Volrath's Shapeshifter, then Player B Confiscates it. Volrath's Shapeshifter will continue to look at Player A's graveyard. That's because Volrath's Shapeshifter knows who its original controller was, and its copy effect is applied before Confiscate's control-change effect is applied to swing it over to Player B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To handle this, Volrath's Shapeshifter's effect was changed from a copy effect to a text-changing effect (which happens after control-change effects). Most text-changing effects change a single word of text, like Mind Bend does. Volrath's Shapeshifter changes all its text, and expands the definition of &amp;quot;text&amp;quot; to include color and mana cost, among other things. It's ugly, but it does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to tell you that I have an elegant fix for this card, and that's why it's on the list. Nope. I'm deleting some unnecessary text from the card, putting in a comma, and fixing the italicization of its reminder text. (The unnecessary text is that Volrath's Shapeshifter's ability says that it works &amp;quot;as long as Volrath's Shapeshifter is in play,&amp;quot; but that goes without saying, so this is just redundant.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The short version is that with the copying effect version, if someone steals control of the Shapeshifter with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Control&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt; or something similar, then the Shapeshifter would have continued to look at the original controller's graveyard, not the new controller's graveyard, which is counter-intuitive. So the text-changing ability was given instead to make it work as expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I still have no answer to the second part of the question, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T16:28:43.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14520" CreationDate="2014-02-06T17:23:38.677" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;GendoIkari has the first part &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/14522/2880&quot;&gt;covered&lt;/a&gt;. This covers the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;No where in that card's new text does it say anything about changing to a different creature if the graveyard changes, so how does it work?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the passage GendoIkari quoted says, it's a text-replacement effect, so it does lose his ability. Yet, it still continues to function!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text-replacement effects are a form of continuous effect, and continuous effects are reapplied whenever the game state changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the replaced VS no longer has the ability, he changes form when the top of the graveyard changes because the layers are reapplied whenever the game state changes, and you always start with the card text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.1. The values of an object’s characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say a Llanowar Elves tops the Grizzly Bear in your graveyard. What is the Shapeshifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with the card text: A VS with the text-replacement ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then apply the changes to layer 3: A Llanowar Elves with the discard ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say a Lightning Bolt tops the Grizzly Bear in your graveyard. What is the Shapeshifter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with the card text: A VS with the text-replacement ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then apply the changes to layer 3: Still a VS with the text-replacement ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The rulings specifically say &quot;A copy of a Volrath's Shapeshifter will have the shapeshifting ability&quot;, but why?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's straight from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.2. When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics [...] Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T19:55:16.447" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14518" CreationDate="2014-02-06T17:33:20.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If I have a Phyrexian Dreadnought on top of my graveyard, and I put a Volrath Shapeshifter onto the battlefield, will I have to sacrifice other creatures with the total power of 12 or not?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's the VS's appearance on the battlefield that will determine if the ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like.  [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Static abilities are always operational when the object with the ability is in the appropriate zone, so there is not a moment the VS is on the battlefield that it's not a PD, so its triggered ability will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The same question goes for using the shapeshifters activated ability to discard a Phyrexian dreadnaught from my hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An object enters the battlefield when it is placed in the battlefield from another zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enters the Battlefield: A nontoken permanent “enters the battlefield” when it’s moved onto the battlefield from another zone. A token “enters the battlefield” when it’s created. See rules 403.3, 603.6a, 603.6e, and 614.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object in this case, the VS-become-PD, has not changed zones. All that happened is that its characteristics (name, type, text, etc) changed. As such, it has not entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If changing characteristics was considered entering the battlefield, then using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Dreadnought&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Dreadnought&lt;/a&gt; would trigger its ability, and I'm sure you realize it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-06T17:44:10.367" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T17:44:10.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14515" CreationDate="2014-02-06T18:42:51.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do some statistical analysis on the possible rolls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The average value of all rolls will be zero.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;41.667% (5/12ths) of all rolls will be negative.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;41.667% (5/12ths) of all rolls will be positive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16.667% (1/6th) of all rolls will be zero.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like it would have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Random_walk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;random walk&lt;/a&gt; type of effect, with no one being able to move very far (as @tttppp pointed out in his comment to the OP). Any positive moves will eventually be offset by negative ones, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6224" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T18:42:51.410" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14516" CreationDate="2014-02-06T21:52:47.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of skill versus luck level, I would put Monopoly on a similar plane to poker. That makes it more a matter of skill than the average dice game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, between two comparably skilled players, luck will decide the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible for a skillful but unlucky player to beat a lucky, but unskillful player. But the skillful player would probably have to bluff a lot in order to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T21:52:47.810" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14486" CreationDate="2014-02-06T22:04:01.153" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of hitting an opposing blot is that you send it to the &quot;bar,&quot; where it will re-enter on your home board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a bad idea if you have a lot of loose checkers in your home board or coming home, meaning that your opponent will have a number of &quot;retaliation&quot; shots. It is these &quot;retaliation shots&quot; (if they exist), that make it inadvisable to hit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason might be that by sending a fourth or fifth opposing checker to your home board, you will help the opponent play a &quot;back&quot; game. Not a real concern if you are sending back a second or third checker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-02-06T22:04:01.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14509" CreationDate="2014-02-07T00:37:09.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to play for the most common scenario (partner has at least a few points). If you always worry that partner might have xxx xxx xxx xxxx and opponents will double, you would pass as dealer with AT9x AKxx KJx AQ! After all, 2NTx-4 will be very expensive!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the original scenario: as ruds says, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; double here. Sure, perhaps one time in fifty (maybe even one time in twenty?), something terrible will happen, and your side goes for -500 at the two level. But in the mean time, you've pushed your opponents up a level or two, or declared a contract for your own plus score, many times. At any form of scoring, the benefit far outweighs the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1046" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T00:37:09.083" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-07T04:04:43.233" Score="8" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spirit%20of%20the%20Labyrinth&quot;&gt;Spirit of the Labyrinth&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chains%20of%20Mephistopheles&quot;&gt;Chains of Mephistopheles&lt;/a&gt; in play.  And then on my opponent's main phase (after they have drawn a card) I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blue%20Sun%20Zenith&quot;&gt;Blue Sun Zenith&lt;/a&gt; for 8 mana and target my opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happen?  My guess is that they will have to discard 5 cards.  But I am not sure, so I am asking...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T04:30:37.093" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T02:46:38.770" Title="How does Spirit of the Labyrinth interact with Chains of Mephistopheles?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14530" CreationDate="2014-02-07T04:07:35.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=spirit+of+the+labyrinth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gatherer rulings&lt;/a&gt; on Spirit of the Labyrinth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can draw a maximum of one card on each player’s turn. Subsequent card draws are ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a replacement effect would try to replace a card that you can’t draw, that effect can’t apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spirit of the Labyrinth completely shuts off Chains of Mephistopheles. So in your specific scenario, Blue Sun's Zenith is shuffled into your library and nothing else happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BrianS pointed out a big hole in my original explanation below. Given the exact situation in the OP, the above is correct. It works differently if it's your turn or before your opponent's draw step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has cards in hand, the first attempted draw gets replaced by Chains. In that situation, your opponent will draw one card, then discard a card. At that point, the opponent will have drawn a card that turn and Spirit of the Labyrinth will do nothing. From Chains' gatherer page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability would cause a player to draw multiple cards, this is treated as a number of individual &amp;quot;draw one card&amp;quot; actions. Apply the effect of Chains of Mephistopheles to each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent has no hand and has drawn no cards this turn, then Chains can have the full effect. This is because while the opponent has multiple draws replaced, they never actually draw any cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens when Chains of Mephistopheles replaces a player's draw: -- If that player has at least one card in his or her hand, he or she discards a card and then draws a card. -- &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If that player's hand is empty, he or she puts the top card of his or her library into his or her graveyard. The player doesn't draw a card at all&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the lesson here is that if you have both Chains and Spirit in play at the same time, you should try to catch your opponent with an empty hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T02:46:38.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14542" CreationDate="2014-02-07T08:13:42.153" Score="6" ViewCount="19597" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I summon a creature with the flash rule in my opponent's turn as a response to their attack is it able to block?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it suffering from summoning sickness and can't do anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2018-07-17T23:43:06.923" Title="Can a flashed creature block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14535" CreationDate="2014-02-07T08:15:33.617" Score="1" ViewCount="3235" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent plays a card with the fuse special rule and opts to play both sides you get a chance to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're holding a counterspell do you dispel one or both spells of the fuse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T14:29:54.313" Title="How do you counter a fuse card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14532" CreationDate="2014-02-07T08:48:07.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would have summoning sickness but that doesn't prevent being able to block. Summonning sickness only deals with being able to use abilities with the (un)tap symbol and declaring as attackers. So yes, you can block with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T08:48:07.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14533" CreationDate="2014-02-07T08:55:33.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is actual still one spell so &quot;both spells&quot; is not the correct term. So yes, both halves would be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the full rules of Fuse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101 a Fuse is a static ability found on some split cards (see rule 708, “Split Cards”) that applies while the card with fuse is in a player’s hand. If a player casts a split card with fuse from his or her hand, the player may choose to cast both halves of that split card. This choice is made before putting the split card with fuse onto the stack. The resulting spell is a fused split spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101b A fused split spell has two sets of characteristics and one converted mana cost. The converted mana cost of the spell is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its two mana costs, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101c The total cost of a fused split spell includes the mana cost of each half. (See rule 601.2e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.101d As a fused split spell resolves, the controller of the spell follows the instructions of the left half and then follows the&#xA;  instructions of the right half.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T08:55:33.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14532" CreationDate="2014-02-07T08:56:31.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness means it can't be tapped. You can still use it to block an attacking creature. Just remember to flash it in at the end of the declare attackers step!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T08:56:31.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14543" CreationDate="2014-02-07T11:42:00.340" Score="10" ViewCount="4302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Reactor&quot;&gt;Darksteel Reactor&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;. How does the Reactor's effect resolve when it hits 20 counters with the PA in the battlefield? Do I win the game or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T14:34:26.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T23:14:49.033" Title="How do Platinum Angel and Darksteel Reactor interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14537" CreationDate="2014-02-07T12:12:37.240" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is relevant here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &quot;can't&quot; effect&#xA;  takes precedence. Example: If one effect reads &quot;You may play an&#xA;  additional land this turn&quot; and another reads &quot;You can't play land&#xA;  cards this turn,&quot; the effect that precludes you from playing lands&#xA;  wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T12:12:37.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14516" CreationDate="2014-02-07T14:26:19.653" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, Monopoly has more to do with luck than with skill.  I define skill as the ability to make correct decisions.  A decision is correct if it maximizes the odds of you winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to play Monopoly poorly (unlike, say, the card game War which is a game of pure luck and no decisions).  For example, never buying anything and just collecting your $200 for each circuit will (against normal play) result in you eventually losing more money on each circuit than you earn.  Therefore, some degree of skill is required by the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6828" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T14:26:19.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14533" CreationDate="2014-02-07T14:29:54.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules use imprecise wording as they instruct you two cast two things (&quot;cast both halves&quot;), but it is well known that only one spell (consisting of a fusion of both halves) is being cast, and it is implied by other rules (&quot;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; fused spell...&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one spell is cast. Only one spell is on the stack. Countering the spell counters the &quot;both halves&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T14:29:54.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14532" CreationDate="2014-02-07T14:39:06.330" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you flash the creature in during the Declare Attackers step or earlier, you can block with that creature. You can do it after attackers are declared, but it's too late once blockers have been declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Summoning sickness&quot; prevents three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declaring the sick creature as an attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activating abilities of a sick creature with the tap symbol (aka {T}) in their cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activating abilities of a sick creature with the untap symbol (aka {Q}) in their cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocking is permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T14:47:21.610" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T14:47:21.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14537" CreationDate="2014-02-07T14:48:03.707" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game will be a draw. Darksteel Reactor will trigger, attempt to win you the game, and then resolve and do nothing (since you can't win the game). Once resolved, Darksteel Reactor will see that it is still in play and still has 20 counters, and it will trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.8.&lt;/strong&gt; A state-triggered ability doesn't trigger again until the ability has resolved, has been countered, or has otherwise left the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will continue without moving the game forward until a player removes either Darksteel Reactor or Platinum Angel or both. Since the game can't move forward, it is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: in a multiplayer game, &quot;You win the game&quot; is translated as &quot;Each opponent loses the game.&quot; So if Player A had Darksteel Reactor, player B has Platinum Angel, and player C had nothing, player C would lose and players A and B would tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-02-07T15:19:07.577" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T15:19:07.577" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14516" CreationDate="2014-02-07T16:07:41.103" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't lay out criteria in your question so I'm going to assume that what you're asking is: Let's say Bob diligently acquires as much skill as possible in Monopoly and practices with 50 or more games. If Bob plays several beginners (10 or fewer games - little study of the game), and no players know other players' skill level - is Bob highly likely to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;. Monopoly definitely involves skill, and therefore Bob is highly likely to win that first game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most sophisticated and difficult skill involves working favorable trades. Though trading occurs only a few times a game, it is the primary means by which skill can cause the odds of winning to shift dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make favorable trades, you must:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/46/which-property-group-colour-gives-the-best-roi-undeveloped-or-fully-developed&quot;&gt;understand relative worth of different properties&lt;/a&gt; (you must know landing frequencies, development costs, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;understand risk/reward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be able to quickly understand what your opponents care about, which in many cases will NOT be optimizing for greatest relative worth trades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;be persuasive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also some simpler skills such as learning when it makes sense to buy a property and when to let it go up for auction, when it makes sense to start building houses (and how much money to keep in reserve), that the third house is the most valuable, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Settlers of Catan, however, once it is clear who is the most skilled player, it is very easy for everyone to stop the most skilled player via trade embargos. I have had the experience several times of trouncing new opponents at Monopoly for a game or two and then losing more than average thereafter when my opponents refuse to trade with me. Actually - it's usually a little more gradual than that as first they just refuse to trade on my terms and start demanding more. And then they won't ever let me have a monopoly result from a trade. So then I resort to ever higher risk trades until I reach a point where nobody is willing to give me any trade I would want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is only when playing with fresh opponents that I have an opportunity to exert maximum skill, without fear that trading reputation will mean embargoes. That is why I carefully rephrased your question to assume lack of knowledge of the opponents. Because once it is clear who the most skilled player is in the game, it is very easy for opponents to gang up and actually cause the most skilled player to lose more often than average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Side Note:&lt;/strong&gt; several other answers imply that the luck of what you get has to be pretty good to even have a chance at making favorable trades. To that I say, you can make your own luck. For example, if you've studied Monopoly, you know that the two best monopolies to get in terms of risk/reward and Return on Investment are the oranges and light blues. So you may try trading for them earlier in the game. Many players are under the mistaken belief that Boardwalk is the best property. So if I obtain Boardwalk and I own one light blue, while the 2nd is owned by a different player and third by bank - I may offer Boardwalk for the light blue that is owned - and they think they are getting a steal. I now have two light blues and have created the possibility that I may get a monopoly if I get the third. So even though I had bad luck in not having 2 out of 3 of either light blue or orange, I have created a 2 out of 3 situation with one of the best two colors to increase my chances of getting lucky, or at least being able to trade for the 3rd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T17:54:26.103" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2014-02-07T16:29:56.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With old magic rules, you could, as it went&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage goes on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play more effects (including a sacrifice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Magic 2010, the order now goes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage &lt;strike&gt;goes on the stack&lt;/strike&gt; is determined by the players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strike&gt;play more effects (including a sacrifice)&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can no longer play spells or abilities before damage resolves, &lt;strong&gt;it is not possible to sacrifice a creature after dealing damage.&lt;/strong&gt; **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(** anymore)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6832" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T06:58:57.510" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T06:58:57.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14516" CreationDate="2014-02-07T21:09:19.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you roll, you land somewhere, and you pay rent; no decision making.  If the property is unowned, you have to decide if you want to buy it, but 99% of the time, buying it is the right thing to do.  So there are two real sets of decisions; what trades do I make, and when and where do I buy houses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those few decisions have drastic impact on how the game unfolds, so sure, people who are more skilled at choosing wise trades and when to buy houses (for instance, is the extra $$ to be made from hotels more important the tying up the limited supply of houses?) will do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But those decisions are highly constrained by where the dice take them on all their previous turns.  And like Joe said, that's a pretty bad ratio of useful decision-making to play time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sure, people who play with the house rule of putting money on Free Parking are skewing things away from skillful play even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T21:09:19.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12334" CreationDate="2014-02-07T22:13:59.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the silica gel idea, I believe it does help quite a bit, as I to was wondering why my foil Archon of Triumvirate bent far worse than my foil Hypersonic Dragon(about 4 months older than my newly opened Archon) which i keep in my desk drawer. Upon getting a new laptop earlier in the year, I threw the silica gel that came with the packaging into my desk drawer and my foils stored in the drawer showed a significant difference to newer foils i obtained and did not store within the same drawer. Even today a foil i got less than a week ago reached the same condition of Archon when kept outside of said drawer and my hypersonic is still holding up pretty well unsleeved while in the drawer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6838" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T22:13:59.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14562" CreationDate="2014-02-07T23:10:11.567" Score="5" ViewCount="640" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that in a bridge tournament, that the declarer must pause for some time (X seconds) after the dummy goes down, in order to study it, before playing to the first trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is that time interval (i.e. what is X in terms of seconds)? Does this apply if dummy has a &quot;forced&quot; play such as a singleton in the led suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My further understanding is that East is allowed to take this pause (for X seconds) if, for some reason, declarer doesn't. Is this the case? And is East allowed to take an additional X seconds (or more) if declarer takes X seconds for study?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T00:18:13.527" Title="What is the &quot;pause&quot; rule for dummy play in tournament bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14537" CreationDate="2014-02-07T23:47:45.003" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the official rule system, but the &quot;house rules&quot; way I've always seen this played with my friends (who think draws are stupid) is that any persistent state that would cause you to win the game is effectively &quot;put on hold&quot; until Platinum Angel is off the battlefield (the effect doesn't retrigger until it can resolve differently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you put 20 counters on Darksteel Reactor, the game would continue, and if (before your opponent wins) you remove Platinum Angel while Darksteel Reactor is still down with 20, you win as soon as Platinum Angel is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6841" LastActivityDate="2014-02-07T23:47:45.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14549" CreationDate="2014-02-08T06:26:13.370" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Laws (see e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) do not require any such pause. If declarer (South in this scenario) calls for a card from dummy immediately, East should only pause in case they have a problem with the play to this particular trick (for example, if West has played the Ace in a suit, East may need to think before encouraging or discouraging continuation of that suit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, East has a clear play to the initial trick but requires time to think about the rest of the defense, they should play immediately to the first trick, but leave the card they played to the first trick face up while they think. Declarer is entitled to know whether East's problem is related to play to the first trick or not (on the other hand, this is unauthorized information to West, who must play as though they were unaware of East's pause).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T06:26:13.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2014-02-08T09:11:32.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a few key principles. It's important to play &quot;systematically&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flag should always go in the back row and be protected by bombs. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6, 5, 4, 2s should go in the front row, however limit to just 1 six in the front row. Don't waste twos early on save them for mid-game. Opponents rarely put pieces worth knowing in their front row.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will lose the game if you go down a 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10. Play carefully with these pieces. 9 and ten should be on opposite sides and be on the second or row and be able to reach the middle easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to clear the front row out quickly and use it as a path to organize your pieces. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you evenly distribute your major pieces (e.g. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10). That means 1 six on the left, 2 in the center and 1 on the right and the same with your other pieces (7, 8, 9, 10). Once you reach end game you want to be able to quickly bring these pieces to the flanks between the lakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We outline more of how to play &quot;systematically&quot; in our e-book and also offer a lot of free content. &#xA;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://strategostrategy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strategy for Stratego&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6843" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-09T12:13:22.200" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T12:13:22.200" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14554" CreationDate="2014-02-08T14:18:42.450" Score="2" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a player plays his first piece, does it have to cover the corner square? For example, can one play his X piece as first piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T17:03:10.360" Title="Does the first piece in a standard blokus game have to have a square on a corner cell?" Tags="|blokus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14553" CreationDate="2014-02-08T15:14:55.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rues, &quot;The first piece played by each player must cover a corner square.&quot; They show an example of an illegal first move, as a piece that &quot;surrounds&quot; the corner without touching it, like an X would. This does mean that the X cannot ever be the first piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mindware.com/Blobs/22021_inst_blokus.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.mindware.com/Blobs/22021_inst_blokus.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-08T15:14:55.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14617" CreationDate="2014-02-08T19:15:28.240" Score="2" ViewCount="4474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Legends of Andor and was trying to play the intro with two players. Having only two heroes, it seems the objectives cannot be reached in one day. Is Andor meant to be played with all heroes always, like e.g. In Mice and Mystics? I couldn't find any hints so far in the manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6146" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T21:37:14.467" Title="How to play the intro of Legends of Andor with two players?" Tags="|legends-of-andor|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-08T23:09:32.793" Score="1" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been dying to start playing this for a good year now, so I'm finally going to grab a copy. My question is simply do I &lt;em&gt;have to&lt;/em&gt; start with the 'base-set' box, or can any of  the larger box sets be used without the base box, for example 'Lair of the Wyrm' or 'The Trollfens'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6846" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-02-09T01:36:51.703" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:58:07.260" Title="Are the large box sets stand alone, or do they require Descent 2nd Edition base-set?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14567" CreationDate="2014-02-09T10:01:10.960" Score="5" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &quot;Sky Hook&quot; ship upgrade which &quot;Counts as TRANSPORT&quot; and &quot;Requires Pilot to use&quot;. What exactly the rules of its use are? I see several possibilities:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. It should be &quot;equipped&quot; by a Pilot going on a mission (like gear)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. A Pilot should stay on the ship (because the ship is acting as a transport)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. It always counts as a transport if you have a Pilot in the crew.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T06:41:38.317" Title="Firefly 'Sky Hook' ship upgrade" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15343" CreationDate="2014-02-09T10:09:37.027" Score="5" ViewCount="758" Body="&lt;p&gt;Situation: Player1 moves into a sector containing a ship of Player2 and draws &quot;Reaver Cutter&quot; nav card (which means moving Reavers into the same sector and applying Reaver Contact effects immediately). Do Reavers attack both ships or only the Player1? I.E. does Player2 have the contact immediately or only on the start of his turn? There is a difference because Reavers may leave the sector before the turn of the Player2 begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T09:35:11.020" Title="Firefly &quot;Reaver Cutter&quot; nav card" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2014-02-09T18:15:16.670" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We play with open hands - everyone sees everybody else's cards.  That saves a lot of time asking if anyone has a wood for sheep, and we end up with more complicated trades.  We also allow everyone to trade and build on anyone's turn (if there's a conflict, priority is clockwise from the current player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe these changes shorten the game, but the real advantage is that they keep everyone involved all the time, so they don't get bored waiting for their turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6851" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:25:01.963" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:25:01.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11088" CreationDate="2014-02-09T18:20:08.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shock lands get their name because of the spell &quot;Shock&quot;, which deals 2 damage to target creature or player. With the shock lands, in order to get them into play untapped, you have to hit yourself with a shock. Shock lands are so expensive becuase of mana fixing. Anything that is invunerable (lands are the hardest thing in MTG to kill, except emblems) and can help you get the colors you need to the battlefield, will be worth a good portion of money. The cost is increased as well becuase of the shock lands' synergy with the &quot;fetch lands&quot;. These are lands that can grab other lands. The shock lands are the only nonbasic lands with basic land types in their card type, so they are the only non-baic land that the fetch lands can fetch you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6852" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T18:20:08.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2014-02-09T19:11:44.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spielmaterial.de has lots and lots of generic components. The web shop is outdated and clunky, so you´ll spend some time finding what you need, but there is a lot to be found. They're based in Germany but ship to the Netherlands, so probably to the UK as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6853" LastActivityDate="2014-02-09T19:11:44.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14549" CreationDate="2014-02-09T20:03:39.167" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/assets/documents/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt; do not specifically address the pace of play following the tabling of Dummy, but rather more generally state (&lt;strong&gt;my emphasis&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 73(A)(2):&lt;/strong&gt; Calls and plays should be made without undue emphasis, mannerism or inflection, and without undue hesitation or &lt;strong&gt;haste&lt;/strong&gt;. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 73(D)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Variations in Tempo or Manner&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1. I t is desirable, though not always required, for players to maintain steady tempo and unvarying manner. &lt;strong&gt;However, players should be particularly careful when variations may work to the benefit of their side.&lt;/strong&gt; ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 74(C)(7):&lt;/strong&gt; varying the normal tempo of bidding or play for the purpose of disconcerting an opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any &lt;strong&gt;unduly or abnormally rapid&lt;/strong&gt; play from Dummy (ie without consideration of the entire hand) would be a clear violation of all of these mandated Proprieties and Etiquettes, and subject to disciplinary action under Laws 73(F) and 90.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all occurrences of irregularities, the appropriate action is to call the Tournament Director as per Law 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Updated 2019-01-23&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible you are confusing this situation with the &lt;em&gt;skip-bid pause&lt;/em&gt; mandated by some organizing authorities following any bid at a strictly higher level than sufficient in that denomination. It presumes that a bid skipping the level is always unexpected, and requires that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the skip bidder announce prior to his call: &quot;Skip bid; please pause.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the next player to study his hand for ~10 seconds before making a call.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, except for the Rules guidance above, no such requirement is made following the opening lead and tabling of Dummy, for any organizing authority that I am aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2019-01-24T00:18:13.527" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T00:18:13.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14568" CreationDate="2014-02-09T22:53:25.877" Score="5" ViewCount="4559" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I'm an Eternal player (Legacy and sometimes Modern) that has played just few times EDH/Commander I found difficult to understand why often players use a more strict banned list in their matches; I agree that &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m12/en/109.html&quot;&gt;Sorin Markov&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/zen/en/12.html&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m11/en/28.html&quot;&gt;Serra Ascendant&lt;/a&gt; are really good cards but if the authorities of French and Multiplayer Commander didn't think it was too good to be banned, why would a single group of friends ban it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's like I decide to play my Legacy games with my friends banning &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/us/en/96.html&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt; because it's a very strong card..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T12:26:10.230" Title="Why so many people use &quot;house rules&quot; in EDH/Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14564" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-10T04:02:30.183" Score="5" ViewCount="1332" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aura%20of%20Dominion&quot;&gt;Aura of Dominion&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbiter%20of%20the%20Ideal&quot;&gt;Arbiter of the Ideal&lt;/a&gt;, can I pay 1 mana and tap Arbiter of the Ideal (as the cost of Aura of Dominion's ability) and then have Arbiter untap (as the effect of Aura of Dominion's ability)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, am I right in thinking that this will let me use Arbiter of the Ideal's Inspire ability as many times as I have untapped mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T04:34:32.403" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T04:34:32.403" Title="Can Aura of Dominion be used with Inspire Creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14564" CreationDate="2014-02-10T04:32:31.770" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use Aura of Dominion to repeatedly trigger Inspired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, when you activate the ability, you tap the enchanted creature (and pay 1 mana) to pay for it. Then when it resolves, the enchanted creature untaps and the Inspired ability triggers. Then the game has basically returned to the state it started in, so you can do it until you run out of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T04:32:31.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2014-02-10T05:48:39.447" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, in any game community the casual players are going to have a different attitude toward banning than the tournament players. In the case of M:tG, the tournament formats are very fine-tuned and the most hardcore players tend to play in sanctioned tournaments, so if anyone's going to be banning cards that aren't officially banned, it's going to be casuals who don't like losing to certain stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDH is and has always been a very casual format. It's an open secret even among the people who designed and govern it that the format would be broken in a lot of ways if anyone tried to &quot;solve&quot; it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/article/22211_Building-A-Legacy---Commander-In-Legacy-.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drew Levin said&lt;/a&gt; that &quot;Commander is a format where everyone puts Sol Ring in their deck and then apologizes if they get to cast it&quot;. Even &quot;serious&quot; Commander strategy articles will often trail into digressions about not breaking the format too hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this is to say that if casual groups are banning a card, the thought process is probably something like &quot;ok, we get it, you can beat us with that card. We'd like to actually play a game this time.&quot; If that bothers you, play a &quot;real&quot; format. I had to play Commander all of twice to decide it wasn't for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I originally attributed the Drew Levin quote to Aaron Forsythe. I did find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/standard/26201-Other-Peoples-Decks-Aaron-Forsythes-Ramses-Overdark.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another article&lt;/a&gt; about an EDH deck created by Forsythe; the comments thread is pretty pertinent here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T08:20:54.727" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T08:20:54.727" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14557" CreationDate="2014-02-10T06:35:53.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the mission calls for a transport, they use the firefly as the transport. The transport is not expected to be in their pockets, so either they used the transport to get to the job, or they went back to the ship to do the job. You're good if you got a pilot on the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T06:41:38.317" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T06:41:38.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2014-02-10T08:29:44.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Legacy analogy is really pretty close to one of the main answers here: people playing casual Magic place a pretty high premium on fun and diversity, and single really strong cards aren't good for that. Commander is primarily a casual format, and indeed, you're asking about casual play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not playing many games, maybe one or two a week (not tons of playtesting or tournaments), you want those games to be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want one person to keep coming back with a deck based around one really good card that keeps the games from being fun for everyone else. You may also want to avoid people having one card in their deck that, when it does happen to come up, keeps the game from being fun for everyone else. Since even casual players want to win, just banning a few cards can be the easiest way to avoid those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side note: casual players also are more likely to have limited time and money, and that does lower the threshold for banning. At some point, it's easier and better for the group to tell one player to stop playing one card that's become un-fun than to make everyone else modify their decks (and buy cards) to deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of diversity, a Legacy metagame with a dozen different archetypes seeing a lot of play might feel pretty diverse to you. But people playing EDH might want to allow way more - there are a lot of commanders! And if a few cards are stopping that from happening, well, just get rid of those cards. You want to be able to play the kind of deck you want, and for your friends to be able to play cool things too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just remember, it's about fun, not a perfectly balanced metagame, and definitely not just about winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T20:24:50.557" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T20:24:50.557" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14571" CreationDate="2014-02-10T11:38:30.620" Score="4" ViewCount="4434" Body="&lt;p&gt;In game of thrones, if I attacked the opponent with army of several units, and I used all of them to make sure to win. Should I also move all the units to the conquered territory in case of victory or I can choose to leave some units in their position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6857" LastActivityDate="2019-05-06T17:04:56.800" Title="Do I have to move all units in the area I have attacked?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14555" CreationDate="2014-02-10T14:38:12.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to reach all the objectives with just two players, and that is the way that it is designed.  Unlike Mice and Mystics, Legends of Andor has much more of a puzzle feel to it and you need to plan carefully in order to accomplish things within the time limits.  Keep in mind that you can move through the castle, that is one thing that often makes people think it takes longer than it really does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T14:38:12.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14569" CreationDate="2014-02-10T15:12:59.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you already moved those troops during the March Orders step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; indicates that all troops are moved or not moved during the March Order, &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; combat begins. If you wanted to leave some troops behind, you need to do so before you begin combat and you cannot add those units to your combat strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-When a player moves one or more units into an area containing units from another house, he starts a &lt;strong&gt;combat&lt;/strong&gt; as the attacker.  See rules for combat on page 17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Before resolving combat, all other non-combat movement from the area assigned the March Order must be completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is further supported by the rules for retreating on page 21. The retreating units are currently in the embattled area, and must retreat back to the area they marched from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the attacker lost the combat, his surviving units must retreat &lt;strong&gt;back&lt;/strong&gt; to the area from which they marched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T15:22:36.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2014-02-10T15:30:06.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest reasons why house rules run rampant in the format is that the Rules Committee encourages it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House rules or &amp;quot;fair play&amp;quot; exceptions are always encouraged if they result in more fun for the local community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;, &amp;quot;Philosophy&amp;quot; section)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many house rules are the result of people who, for one reason or another, refuse to (or cannot) update their decks in response to changes in their metagame. You don't see this in the competitive scene, because adapting to the meta is how competitive decks &lt;em&gt;stay&lt;/em&gt; competitive. However, when you've got people who aren't updating their decks, the group creates rules to keep everyone in check and let the do-nots (and/or have-nots) stay on roughly the same level as their peers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use your three examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sorin%20Markov&quot;&gt;Sorin Markov&lt;/a&gt; sets a player's life total to 10. In other formats, that's -10 life (assuming starting life totals, which is uncommon for a 6-cost permanent) for 6 mana. In EDH, that's -30 life. Seems broken? Well, that's debatable. What else is Sorin going to do to you? 2 damage? That's a 6-turn (total) clock, equivalent to a 4-power general attacking to kill you with general damage. Are you afraid of losing to general damage from a 4-power general?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Magister%20Sphinx&quot;&gt;Magister Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; provides a similar effect, but as a creature it's easier to cheat into play (reanimation) an re-use (blink/reanimation). With 5 power, it also becomes a 3-turn clock (or 2 turns with haste) -- much more impressive! The sphinx is also a blocker, can be sacrificed to other effects, etc. In other words, Sorin doesn't do much to affect the board state, while Sphinx does. As a meta develops, people eventually realize that Sorin &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; that impressive in the format (in fact, planeswalkers as a card type are generally less impressive in multiplayer), and don't mind seeing him... but he stops getting played in most decks, anyway, because his actual power level is lower than his initial perceived power level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Felidar%20Sovereign&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; is a win-condition which, on paper, sounds broken. Win at 40 life, and you start at 40 life? Wow! Unfortunately, it's uncommon to still be at 40 life by the time you can play it. As a creature, it's also the most easily-handled type of card in the game. As a meta develops, people start using more spot removal, and the trip around the table required to win with Sovereign becomes difficult to achieve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Ascendant&quot;&gt;Serra Ascendant&lt;/a&gt; comes out fast and swings hard... if it comes out early. Turn 1 Serra is a nasty beater; turn 6 Serra is... less impressive. To actually win with Ascendant, you need 7 turns of attacking (8 turns total unless you can give it haste, assuming your life total is high enough in the first place), which is worse than Sorin, and Ascendant suffers the same problem as Sovereign in that it's the easiest type of card to get rid of.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, that 6/6 is giving you a bunch of life every turn, but in a format riddled with infinite combos and the presence of general damage, a few dozen life doesn't mean that much in a competitive metagame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T15:30:06.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2014-02-10T17:13:46.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;#People don't necessarily want to play the Rules Committee's game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea of Commander/EDH has appeal beyond just the particular card pool. Some players want to play 100-card singleton with generals but don't share the Rules Committee's appreciation of old cards, or expensive former tournament staples, or crazy combo decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the Rules Committee does try to take the needs of the community as a whole into account, but they're basing their judgements on convention games, online discussions, and their own experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;play groups start to come out with their own rules and restrictions&lt;/strong&gt; — sometimes unspoken (even the RC seems to assume some level of &amp;quot;gentlemen's agreements&amp;quot;) — &lt;strong&gt;to create the Magic-with-legends format that they most want to play&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Multiplayer EDH isn't a very &amp;quot;balanced&amp;quot; format, really&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDH lets you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sol%20Ring&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;, man. Sol Ring!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hermit%20Druid&quot;&gt;Hermit Druid&lt;/a&gt; Combo — have you seen that deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The EDH ban list is generally very forgiving of powerful cards, especially enablers, as long as they don't win the game outright or cause &amp;quot;unfun&amp;quot; board states (e.g. repeatedly blowing up lands). The logic is that the other players will &amp;quot;balance&amp;quot; the game by teaming up against you until they've whittled away your advantage. This is why Duel Commander has its own separate ban list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in multiplayer, though, some people don't really like the &amp;quot;gank the guy with the cheaty card&amp;quot; experience (I don't). One way to fix that is to change up the banned list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The &amp;quot;casual&amp;quot; metagame isn't like a competitive metagame&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournament Magic, or hardcore Magic using near-tournament-quality decks, players approach deckbuilding with a competitive mindset: they build decks to take on the overall metagame. In casual Magic, it's often the other way around: &lt;strong&gt;players want the local &amp;quot;metagame&amp;quot; to support their favored decks&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Magic players have their own styles and their own tastes. But &amp;quot;Spike-y&amp;quot; players tend to appreciate self-expression &lt;em&gt;within the bounds of what's powerful and viable&lt;/em&gt;, whereas other folks don't enjoy having to choose between playing what's good and playing whatever it is they love to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's say your casual play group really likes &amp;quot;tribal&amp;quot; creature decks. All of you want to play games of Magic where those decks can do their thing and clash against each other. The mainstream EDH rules are only designed to support that up to a point. If you start to have problems with other strategies that naturally waste the kinds of decks you actually want to play, maybe you'll start adding &amp;quot;house rules&amp;quot; to limit those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could see this as a reactionary flip-out by players who don't want to challenge themselves, but that's rather uncharitable. Oftentimes it's more like formalizing unspoken assumptions that have always been there, to get the group back onto the same page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T17:13:46.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14150" CreationDate="2014-02-10T18:18:10.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a strong opinion on the communities that no limit exist. In fact, at page 7 of the rulebook, the following passage supports this: &quot;Obviously, the first players will tend to use up the resources present on the domestic market board (I) first. Then they will use up their own resources, if they so wish&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T18:18:10.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2014-02-10T21:56:01.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize this is an older post but I found it to be a good resource and had a resource I thought was useful so I thought I'd add a little to it.  Similar to the Thrift store answer, in the states we have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dollartree.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dollar Tree&lt;/a&gt; stores, where everything is one dollar.  I've seen chess/checkers/dominoes/etc. all of which have a number of pawns or tokens for use.  I realize Chess has some specific pieces but the pawns may be generic enough for your purposes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, I've made my own.  If you have access to a miter/chop saw one dowel rod (circular or square) can become 50 disks/cubes.  Add a little paint, or stickers and you've got a bunch of new options to play with.  Your local art/craft store will have many more options as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6278" LastEditorUserId="6278" LastEditDate="2014-02-10T22:15:04.623" LastActivityDate="2014-02-10T22:15:04.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14587" CreationDate="2014-02-10T22:52:40.360" Score="11" ViewCount="32458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading on the Yu-Gi-Oh Wiki that some cards have their artwork changed due to censorship, examples are the Fortune Lady's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Original Japanese version&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yc2xO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Japanese Fortune Lady&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;English Version with Censor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lMynw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;English Fortune Lady&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering, if I were in a sanctioned tournament in an English speaking country and my deck contained mostly English cards, could I play the Japanese card and have the English one off to the side for the other players or spectators to reference the effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6859" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T01:58:23.710" LastActivityDate="2017-11-16T22:04:01.790" Title="Can Japanese Cards be played if using an English based Deck?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-11T01:02:25.593" Score="3" ViewCount="28832" Body="&lt;p&gt;When i build my deck i like to try and test it out to see what flaws could be exploited and cards used to exploit those flaws while also seeing how difficult it is to implement my strategies while also learning of new cards i may want to get in order to strength my deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;problem is that the i can't test it out how i want to, i'm not privilege enough to have many players (if at all) to help test my deck in my area and if i go into the city players tend to reserve their opinion, assuming that it's because they don't want me patching up my deck to potentially defeat them in a rematch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a program called YVD (Yu-Gi-Oh Virtual Desktop) which is normally up to date with every card currently released and allows me to duel players however random duels with human players tend to be nonconstructive as when i loose my opponent doesn't stick around for me to learn where i went wrong and while i could rig a couple of machines to connect locally and duel an identical deck this fails in me learning of new cards or strategies which could be used against me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now i am looking for a program/game similar to YVD however has a single player aspect for dueling AI players, while pale in comparison to human players who can come up with strategies and see and exploit flaws in my deck, an AI can help me prepare a better deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the things YVD has which i also want&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Complete database of cards (or can be updated)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allowing both tournament and non-tournament decks (my non-tournament tend to have tournament banned cards like Change of Heart and tends to get close to 100 cards)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Preferable free to download but i am willing to pay for it however to get cards that has to be free, i dont want to be spending money getting digital versions of my cards just as a test before i go off to buy them physically&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Has AI Players or a single AI Player which is assigned decks meaning i can recreate decks posted on forums/wikis and duel against them as a test&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can be played Offline without ever needing to connect to the internet (not even for installing), this is because my main computer doesn't connect to the net and my laptop which does is getting on in the years and tends to burn up during summer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Platform must either be Windows, iOS or Android, while i can accept consoles most console Yu-Gi-Oh games on consoles start you off with a starter deck and it takes forever for you to get all the cards needed to mimic a deck you have created in real life&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6859" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T18:50:49.223" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T00:57:51.967" Title="Is there a program/game i can build a deck and play against AI's without a net connection?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2017-07-02T13:29:33.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14151" CreationDate="2014-02-11T02:23:26.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not an official answer, but it seems that disembarking all meeples after exploring is the only reasonable thing to do. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/921800/first-action-when-starting-on-the-plain-sea-hex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/921800/first-action-when-starting-on-the-plain-sea-hex&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T02:23:26.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9744" CreationDate="2014-02-11T04:10:21.033" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It needs to be in the standard version. I tried with the 1910 version and it didn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6863" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T04:10:21.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13092" CreationDate="2014-02-11T04:53:33.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;you can use this list to &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Sends_from_Deck_to_Graveyard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Send cards from your Deck to the Graveyard&lt;/a&gt; or this list to &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Sends_from_Deck_to_Graveyard_for_cost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Send cards from your Deck to the Graveyard at a cost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there are also cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Destruction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Card Destruction&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Graceful_Charity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Graceful Charity&lt;/a&gt; might come in handy, while the first can wipe out your entire hand if you have a hand full of light type fairies, the second can allow you the chance in drawing 2 and sending them right into the grave yard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to find cards which allow you to draw a new card at the same time as discarding, if they draw before discard then you have a chance in drawing a light type fairy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;your other option is to stock up on weaker ones and use them as fodder in Defense Mode, even if your opponent works out what your doing they have no choice but to wipe them out unless they have cards which can deal direct damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6859" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T04:53:33.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14177" CreationDate="2014-02-11T08:05:44.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/lastnightonearth/pdf/LNOE_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are two Zombie Players, each of them has a separate Zombie Pool of 7 Zombies each. One player takes all the Green Zombies, the other all of the Brown Zombies. &lt;strong&gt;Players may never use Zombies from the other player's pool&lt;/strong&gt; (only their own color of Zombie).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T08:05:44.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12923" CreationDate="2014-02-11T13:12:51.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not a site I know of, but there is Java-based software:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://colossus.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://colossus.sourceforge.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:12:51.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13949" CreationDate="2014-02-11T13:21:23.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not crunched any numbers for &quot;proof&quot; but experience and a quick sort through the monster deck would tend to support your supposition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rogue hit numbers are notably lower than the Cleric's and their secret doors special power is not good enough to compensate, especially given that it's not reliable and can be replicated with certain treasure cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fighter hit numbers are only notably higher than the Cleric on low-level monsters. So it's more a case of being more reliable than really adventuring at higher levels. That doesn't seem a good enough trade off for the extra 10k gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards can do much better than Clerics, but it's a crapshoot: draw monsters that happen to be vulnerable to your spell selection and you'll win easily. Don't, and you're monster bait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to be honest, you don't play Dungeon for the sort of strategic gameplay where balance is important. You play it for laughs, for stories and for being about the only family-friendly boardgame with an unashamedly geeky theme. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T13:21:23.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14577" CreationDate="2014-02-11T15:22:57.700" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, although you can use foreign language cards from the TCG, OCG cards are not allowed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Konami's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/en/otschampionship/otschamp_FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yugioh FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, that lists several &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/en/otschampionship/otschamp_locations.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Tournament Stores&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Can I use foreign language cards in my Deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use foreign-language copies of legal-for-play cards printed for the TCG market, as long as you can show an official translation of the card, &lt;strong&gt;kept outside of your Deck and Deck box&lt;/strong&gt;, when asked to do so by an opponent or tournament official.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Can I use OCG cards in my Deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Cards printed for &lt;strong&gt;Asian markets are not legal&lt;/strong&gt; for play in TCG tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Asian-English&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reasons for this&lt;/a&gt;, which make the cards identifiable in a regular TCG deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T14:29:51.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14588" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-11T15:45:42.933" Score="3" ViewCount="10315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love TI 3rd edition, but can't always get together 3 players willing to commit the amount of time it takes to play a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any 2 player variants of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:18:20.587" LastActivityDate="2021-11-07T11:53:14.850" Title="Are there any playable Twilight Imperium 2 player variants?" Tags="|variants|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|two-player|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14563" CreationDate="2014-02-11T16:22:56.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To give you a succinct answer, EDH is a format the encourages fun and socialization, cards that make the game not fun to play in certain groups get banned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a group is sick of a player constantly winning because he has an infinite turn combo, I can see why they would ban certain cards because as a group they don't see that as fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winning EDH is a secondary goal for a lot of people, I play EDH to make themed decks that do stupid stuff, and &quot;Group Hug&quot; type decks would not exist if people were playing to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T16:22:56.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14588" CreationDate="2014-02-11T23:41:02.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no &lt;em&gt;official&lt;/em&gt; 2-player variant; the game just wasn't designed for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as always, the internet provides.  Various fans have proposed two-player rule sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.preeminent.org/steve/games/ti3/ti3demo/2-player/home/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Roland Wood variant&lt;/a&gt; is probably the most commonly used, building on earlier suggestions by other players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There was another popular version in the &quot;Shattered Expansion&quot;, but I can no longer find a live link.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="245" LastActivityDate="2014-02-11T23:41:02.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14596" CreationDate="2014-02-12T06:03:22.473" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules specify that when trading each group exchanged counts as an action to the player whose turn it is. And then later goes on to say that puppets of a group are transferred along with it. Is the player then limited to exchanging 1 group for another group or two groups for cash/special cards? Or can he exchange a parent group with 3 puppets for another group?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T14:05:26.573" Title="Can a player trade 3 groups in one turn?" Tags="|illuminati|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4332" CreationDate="2014-02-12T08:34:33.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;simple&quot; way I see this is kinda silly, but it works. Look at the cards during combat like a somewhat real battlefield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Opponent declares attack, monster now run towards YOU (monsters always go towards you or planeswalker, unless something say otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You declare you do not want to be hurt, so you order your minions to block.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attacking and blocking creature now meet, both ready for impact, attacker lift axe to strike, blocker raise shield to block.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attacker swings to deal damage, attacker blocks to soak the damage. Nothing can really be done now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Regeneration effects are now in play. Creatures that are not regenerated and has taken fatal damage will be dead after this step.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any &quot;when creature dies&quot; effect can now execute.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &quot;list&quot; is basically the whole attack pace broken down to show how it more or less works. A great way to explain how the stack works for new players during attack pace. The same idea can also be adapted to explain how the whole stack idea works out throughout the game as a whole. While I admit it likely has its flaws, it at least provides a general idea.&#xA;In the end the attack pace is two parted, declare attack and declare block, everything else goes between or after those two steps (usually). You can for example not declare to block an attacking creature, then snipe it with a card that say to destroy attacking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6869" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T08:34:33.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-12T09:08:23.763" Score="5" ViewCount="533" Body="&lt;p&gt;King of Tokyo has a die rolling mechanic similar to Yahtzee, where you get three rolls and may choose to hold or reroll any die you previously held. At the end of third roll, you must keep the resulting die faces. In King of Tokyo, there are three number faces, '1', '2', and '3' and three non-number faces. You only score Victory Points (VP) if you get a 3-of-a-Kind or more, scoring the die face and no points for non-number die faces or numbers with pairs or less. You initiallyscore the die face of the 3-of-a-Kind, and 1 additional point for each matching die face. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-3 '1's score = 1 VP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-4 '1's score = 2 VP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-4 '2's score = 3 VP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-6 '3's score = 6 VP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-3 '3's and 3 '2's score = 5 VP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have an initial roll of 3322xx, where 'x' isn't a number. Assume that for your third roll, you always choose to roll dice that will result in the greatest average increase in VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is your expected average VP after your third roll if you choose to roll 2 dice versus 4 dice for your second roll?&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. Is it better to roll '22xx' or 'xx' if you want to score the most points on average?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T17:38:30.563" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T23:58:54.620" Title="What is your average VP score rolling 2 versus 4 dice after an initial 3322xx roll?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2014-02-12T13:18:37.890" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group plays Catan with no trades, if you need something, go to the bank.  Not even a houserule actually - simply most of our players have a policy of autodeclining everything (or at least anything that's not strongly in their favor like &quot;I'll give you two grain and wood for that single sheep I desperately need&quot;), and trading can't take long even if someone wants to trade, either he makes a very strong offer (which would happen very rarely), or the player who's turn it is simply says no and moves on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6871" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T13:18:37.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14593" CreationDate="2014-02-12T13:56:24.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;first let's examine rerolling only 2 dice.&#xA;since we can't get VPs from 1s, we want 2s and 3s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;there's 1/6 chance of either, so the options we like are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/36 of 2,2, worth 3 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1/36 of 3,3, worth 4 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2/36 of 2,3, worth 5 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;8/36 of 2,X, worth 2 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;8/36 of 3,X, worth 3 points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for a total average of 1.5833&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;rerolling 4 dice is to complicated to do by hand like that, so I wrote a short Python script that returned an average of 1.7523&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so, baring any specific evolutions or items, reroll those 2s!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;assuming we reroll twice, as originally asked&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if we know how much every dice pool is worth (on average, with optimal strategy) before final reroll, we can make an educated decision about the first reroll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's obvious we want to keep the 3s. we're not sure about the 2s, but definitely keep 3s.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;so, we will definitely have 2 3s in the final roll. which options are better to keep then 2 3s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;obviously any other pair or single number is worse then (3,3), as is 3 1s (to keep before final reroll on average). (3,3,2,2,2) is better the either (3,3) or (2,2,2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(3,3) is on average worth 1.7523&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(1,1,1,1) is on average worth 2.3333&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(3,3,2,2,2) is on average worth 2.6666&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(2,2,2,2) is on average worth 3.3333&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(3,3,3) is on average worth 3.5138&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(3,3,3,1,1,1) is on average worth 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(3,3,3,2,2,2) is on average worth 5  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;knowing that, we can write a script that will test all the possibilities if we keep only 3s or keep both, and use the highest average it qualifies for (if we get 3,3,2,2,2,2 we use 3.3333 as our value, despite our roll matching other, lesser options).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;running said script I got a value of 2.6834 for keeping only 3s and 2.62024 for keeping both.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;they're about 1 more then the case with 1 reroll (quite reasonable), but the numbers are lower then corsiKa's expected 3.1121, which is unexpected.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I will investigate further, as I love King of Tokyo and puzzles that I can play with and not just brute-force&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;can provide code used for calculations, if desired&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6872" LastEditorUserId="6872" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T19:42:05.647" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T19:42:05.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14591" CreationDate="2014-02-12T14:05:26.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Page 7 of the rule book, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Group exchanged counts as an action&#xA;  for the player whose turn it is, whichever way the Group&#xA;  moves. So if you trade a Group for a Group on your turn,&#xA;  that counts as two actions – one to move the first Group, one&#xA;  to move the second one!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, on Page 8, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Group is transferred to another player, its puppets (if any)&#xA;  must go with it, along with all treasuries involved. The player&#xA;  receiving the Group must immediately fit it, and its puppets, into his&#xA;  power structure...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know you already pointed that out, I just wanted to show the exact rules quotes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would lead me to believe that you can trade off one of your own Groups (and any of it's puppets) for another Group (and any of it's puppets). Doing so will cost your both of your actions for the turn, one to 'release' the old Group and another to 'welcome' the new Group in. The puppets don't have a say in where they are going, so so they don't count as additional 'Groups' in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are fine to trade away a parent Group with three puppets for another group, just as long as you get a good enough deal!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note, that if a player can't fit a traded group and all it's puppets into their Power Structure, some of the puppets may have to be released to the uncontrolled area.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T14:05:26.573" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14593" CreationDate="2014-02-12T14:15:59.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If after the second roll, you have 3322xx:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Re-rolling 4 dice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chance of one 3 being rolled = 4C1 * 1/6 * 5/6 * 5/6 * 5/6 = 500/1296&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of two 3s being rolled = 4C2 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 5/6 * 5/6 = 150/1296&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of three 3s being rolled = 4C3 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 5/6 = 20/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of four 3s being rolled = 4C4 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 1/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of three 1s being rolled = 4C1 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 4/6 = 16/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of four 1s being rolled = 4C4 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 1/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of three 1s and a 3 being rolled = 4C1 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 4/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of three 2s being rolled = 4C1 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 4/6 = 16/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of four 2s being rolled = 4C4 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 1/1296 &lt;br&gt; &#xA;Chance of three 2s and a 3 being rolled = 4C1 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 4/1296 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of zero 3s being rolled = 1 - the above probabilities = 583/1296&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected average is the sum of all probabilities times the VPs that outcome yields:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(500 / 1296) * 3 = 1.157 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(150 / 1296) * 4 = 0.463 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(20 / 1296) * 5 = 0.077 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1 / 1296) * 6 = 0.005 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(16 / 1296) * 1 = 0.012 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1 / 1296) * 2 = 0.001 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(4 / 1296) * 4 = 0.012 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(16 / 1296) * 2 = 0.025 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1 / 1296) * 3 = 0.002 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(4 / 1296) * 5 = 0.015 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(583 / 1296) * 0 = 0 &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expected value for re-rolling 4 dice is&lt;/strong&gt; 1.157 + 0.463 + 0.077 + 0.005 + 0.012 + 0.001 + 0.012 + 0.025 + 0.002 + 0.015 = &lt;strong&gt;1.769 VPs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Re-rolling 2 dice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chance of rolling two 3s = 2C2 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 1/36 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of rolling one 3 = 2C1 * 1/6 * 4/6 = 8/36 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of rolling two 2s = 2C2 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 1/36 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of rolling one 2 = 2C1 * 1/6 * 4/6 = 8/36 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of rolling one 3 and one 2 = 2C1 * 1/6 * 1/6 = 2/36 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Chance of rolling zero 2s or 3s = 1 - above probabilities = 16/36&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected average is the sum of all probabilities times the VPs that outcome yields:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1/36) * 4 = .111 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(8/36) * 3 = .666 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(1/36) * 3 = .083 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(8/36) * 2 = .444 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(2/36) * 5 = .278 &lt;br&gt;&#xA;(16/36) * 0 = 0 &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expected value for re-rolling 2 dice is&lt;/strong&gt; .111 + .666 + .083 + .444 + .278 = &lt;strong&gt;1.582VPs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; On your last reroll in this situation, reroll the 2s. Rerolling 2 dice gives an average of 1.582 VPs compared to 1.769 VPs for rerolling 4 dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; This only works out which is better for the final reroll. It does not calculate what is better if the two rerolls are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T15:25:44.107" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T15:25:44.107" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14604" CreationDate="2014-02-12T17:13:12.683" Score="8" ViewCount="63000" Body="&lt;p&gt;In traditional draughts, the rules written on our copy of the game say a king can take in any direction even if there are empty spaces between the king and the piece it will take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right? Even if it is, I don't fully understand the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example, if the diagonal has &lt;code&gt;b - - w - - w -&lt;/code&gt; and the black piece is a king, can the king jump over both white pieces and take them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Also, can a king take a piece then change direction and take another one?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some more Internet research suggests that this variant is actually called International Draughts with flying kings, despite what it says on our box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6874" LastEditorUserId="6874" LastEditDate="2014-02-12T21:54:00.113" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T10:43:26.163" Title="Rules for kings to take pieces" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14593" CreationDate="2014-02-12T18:20:38.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Your overall expected value is what you might expect: 3.1121.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, you should almost always get your 3-set of 3s, or a 4-set of 2s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I threw together a simulator to help with this. Now, because I am a lamer, I used Java. It requires Java 7 because it uses &lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;&amp;gt;&lt;/code&gt; notation. If you're using an older version, be warned. Here's the simulator, first off. Please feel free to pick it apart for functionality, but as far as style goes I know there's a million improvements to be made. This is a throw-away script if there ever one. There may be copy/paste typos and what not, but the code is actually fairly readable. I will add comments and edit as necessary, although I will group edits together to delay community-wikization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;import java.util.*;&#xA;import java.text.*;&#xA;class Tokyo {&#xA;    // shortcut for iterating over the faces of a die roll&#xA;    static final int[] face = {0,0,0,1,2,3};&#xA;    &#xA;    public static void main(String...args) {&#xA;        // the initial roll - there's no control over this&#xA;        final Roll init = new Roll(3,3,2,2,0,0);&#xA;        &#xA;        // strat1: reroll all non 3s&#xA;        // this gets all possible results and their counts from &#xA;        // using strat 1 as our guide. see rollStrat1 on the Roll class&#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; strat1roll1 = init.rollStrat1();&#xA;        report(strat1roll1);&#xA;        // now, for each of those rolls, we need to simulate using the same&#xA;        // strategy - the addTo makes sure we give proper credit to rolls that&#xA;        // come up more often&#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; strat1roll2 = new HashMap&amp;lt;&amp;gt;();&#xA;        for(Roll roll : strat1roll1.keySet()) { // for each roll from roll 1&#xA;            Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; curr = roll.rollStrat1(); // reroll according to the strat&#xA;            addTo(strat1roll2, curr); // and store them all in the master map&#xA;        }&#xA;        // now count the results&#xA;        report(strat1roll2);&#xA;        &#xA;        // strat2: reroll all non doubles - comments ommited because it's the same as above&#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; strat2roll1 = init.rollStrat2();&#xA;        report(strat2roll1);&#xA;        &#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; strat2roll2 = new HashMap&amp;lt;&amp;gt;();&#xA;        for(Roll roll : strat2roll1.keySet()) {&#xA;            Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; curr = roll.rollStrat2();&#xA;            addTo(strat2roll2, curr);&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        report(strat2roll2);&#xA;        &#xA;        // strat3: mix the two&#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; strat3roll2 = new HashMap&amp;lt;&amp;gt;();&#xA;        for(Roll roll : strat2roll1.keySet()) {&#xA;            Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; curr = roll.rollStrat3();&#xA;            addTo(strat3roll2, curr);&#xA;        }&#xA;        report(strat3roll2);&#xA;        &#xA;    }&#xA;    &#xA;    static DecimalFormat df = new DecimalFormat(&amp;quot;###.00000&amp;quot;);&#xA;    static void report(Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; map) {&#xA;        int sum = 0;&#xA;        int count = 0;&#xA;        for(Roll roll : map.keySet()) {&#xA;            sum += roll.score() * map.get(roll);&#xA;            count += map.get(roll);&#xA;        }&#xA;        double exval = ((double)sum) / (double)count;&#xA;        System.out.println(&amp;quot;total: &amp;quot; + sum);&#xA;        System.out.println(&amp;quot;count: &amp;quot; + count);&#xA;        System.out.println(&amp;quot;exval: &amp;quot; + df.format(exval)); &#xA;    }&#xA;    &#xA;    &#xA;    &#xA;    // just merge the slave map into the master map&#xA;    static void addTo(Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; master, Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; slave) {&#xA;        for(Roll roll : slave.keySet()) {&#xA;            Integer count = master.get(roll);&#xA;            if(count == null) count = 0;&#xA;            master.put(roll, count + slave.get(roll));&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;    &#xA;    // reroll anything that isn't a 0 in the mask&#xA;    // if it is a non-0, that is the number that will show up in the roll&#xA;    // so if you want to re-roll a 2, in your strat method, turn that 2 into a&#xA;    // 0 so it gets re-rolled&#xA;    static Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; roll(Roll mask) {&#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll, Integer&amp;gt; rolls = new HashMap&amp;lt;&amp;gt;();&#xA;        // iterate over every possibly die roll&#xA;        for(int a = 0; a &amp;lt; 6; a++) { &#xA;        for(int b = 0; b &amp;lt; 6; b++) { &#xA;        for(int c = 0; c &amp;lt; 6; c++) { &#xA;        for(int d = 0; d &amp;lt; 6; d++) {&#xA;        for(int e = 0; e &amp;lt; 6; e++) { &#xA;        for(int f = 0; f &amp;lt; 6; f++) {&#xA;            &#xA;            int ra = mask.a == 0 ? face[a] : mask.a;&#xA;            int rb = mask.b == 0 ? face[b] : mask.b;&#xA;            int rc = mask.c == 0 ? face[c] : mask.c;&#xA;            int rd = mask.d == 0 ? face[d] : mask.d;&#xA;            int re = mask.e == 0 ? face[e] : mask.e;&#xA;            int rf = mask.f == 0 ? face[f] : mask.f;&#xA;            &#xA;            Roll roll = new Roll(ra, rb, rc, rd, re, rf);&#xA;            roll = roll.sort();&#xA;            if(rolls.containsKey(roll)) {&#xA;                rolls.put(roll, rolls.get(roll) + 1);&#xA;            } else {&#xA;                rolls.put(roll, 1);&#xA;            }&#xA;        }}}}}} // my code-review spidy sense is very pissed at me for this&#xA;        return rolls;&#xA;    }&#xA;    &#xA;    // unused, YAGNI I know... but this does illustrate all possible rolls&#xA;    static Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; possibleRolls() {&#xA;        return roll(new Roll(0,0,0,0,0,0));&#xA;    }&#xA;    &#xA;    // this represnts a roll, but it also represents a mask - lame, I know&#xA;    static class Roll {&#xA;        final int a,b,c,d,e,f; // the dice you have&#xA;        Roll(int a, int b, int c, int d, int e, int f) {&#xA;            this.a=a; this.b=b; this.c=c;&#xA;            this.d=d; this.e=e; this.f=f;&#xA;        }&#xA;        // welcome to Java - assumes they are properly sorted - a bad practice that&#xA;        // should be fixed if this grew beyond its current scope&#xA;        public boolean equals(Object o) {&#xA;            Roll ros = (Roll)o;&#xA;            Roll sor = this;&#xA;            return ros.a == sor.a &amp;amp;&amp;amp; ros.b == sor.b &amp;amp;&amp;amp; ros.c == sor.c &#xA;                &amp;amp;&amp;amp; ros.d == sor.d &amp;amp;&amp;amp; ros.e == sor.e &amp;amp;&amp;amp; ros.f == sor.f;&#xA;        }&#xA;        // order doesn't matter for the result, but this is a perfect hash, that's cool&#xA;        public int hashCode() {&#xA;            return (a+1) * (b+1) * (c+1) * (d+1) * (e+1) * (f+1);&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        Roll sort() { // delegate sorting to Arrays =)&#xA;            int[] p = {a,b,c,d,e,f};&#xA;            Arrays.sort(p);&#xA;            return new Roll(p[0],p[1],p[2],p[3],p[4],p[5]);&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        int[] counts() { // convenience method&#xA;            int[] counts = new int[4];&#xA;            counts[a]++; counts[b]++; counts[c]++;&#xA;            counts[d]++; counts[e]++; counts[f]++;&#xA;            return counts;&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        int score() {&#xA;            int[] counts = counts();&#xA;            &#xA;            // trust the math =), or don't and work it out for yourself =)&#xA;            return (counts[1] &amp;gt; 2 ? counts[1] - 2 : 0)&#xA;                 + (counts[2] &amp;gt; 2 ? counts[2] - 1 : 0)&#xA;                 + (counts[3] &amp;gt; 2 ? counts[3] : 0);&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; rollStrat1() {&#xA;            return keepAll(3);&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; keepAll(int k) {&#xA;        // reroll all non ks&#xA;            int ra = a == k ? k : 0; // the mask will have ks or 0s&#xA;            int rb = b == k ? k : 0;&#xA;            int rc = c == k ? k : 0;&#xA;            int rd = d == k ? k : 0;&#xA;            int re = e == k ? k : 0;&#xA;            int rf = f == k ? k : 0;&#xA;            return roll(new Roll(ra,rb,rc,rd,re,rf));&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; rollStrat2() {&#xA;            // reroll anything that doesn't have 2x of something, except 0 - of course reroll 0s&#xA;            int[] counts = counts();&#xA;            int ra = counts[a] &amp;gt; 1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; a &amp;gt; 0 ? a : 0;&#xA;            int rb = counts[b] &amp;gt; 1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; b &amp;gt; 0 ? b : 0;&#xA;            int rc = counts[c] &amp;gt; 1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; c &amp;gt; 0 ? c : 0;&#xA;            int rd = counts[d] &amp;gt; 1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; d &amp;gt; 0 ? d : 0;&#xA;            int re = counts[e] &amp;gt; 1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; e &amp;gt; 0 ? e : 0;&#xA;            int rf = counts[f] &amp;gt; 1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; f &amp;gt; 0 ? f : 0;&#xA;            return roll(new Roll(ra,rb,rc,rd,re,rf));&#xA;        }&#xA;        &#xA;        Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; rollStrat3() {&#xA;            int[] counts = counts();&#xA;            if(counts[3] &amp;gt; 2 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; counts[2] &amp;gt; 2) {&#xA;                Map&amp;lt;Roll,Integer&amp;gt; map = new HashMap&amp;lt;&amp;gt;();&#xA;                map.put(this,score());&#xA;                return map;&#xA;            }&#xA;            if(counts[3] &amp;gt; 2) {&#xA;                return keepAll(3);&#xA;            }&#xA;            if(counts[2] &amp;gt; 2) {&#xA;                return keepAll(2);&#xA;            }&#xA;            return rollStrat1();&#xA;        }&#xA;    }&#xA;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the results are when it is run is (these values have changed - see edit history).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;c:\files\j&amp;gt;java Tokyo&#xA;total: 81756&#xA;count: 46656&#xA;exval: 1.75231&#xA;total: 5081940&#xA;count: 1632960&#xA;exval: 3.11210&#xA;total: 73872&#xA;count: 46656&#xA;exval: 1.58333&#xA;total: 1283040&#xA;count: 466560&#xA;exval: 2.75000&#xA;total: 1165885&#xA;count: 419909&#xA;exval: 2.77652&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this tell us? Well, first it validates the system by coming up with values nearly identical to those calculated by other methods for the first roll. That's excellent news.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's look at the actual results. The number of different values explodes for strategy 1, mostly because it is rerolling 4 different dice on the first pass, and probably an average of 3.5 or so for the second pass. The count seems so much higher because of the uniqueness, but I adjusted for this 'problem' in the code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second strategy starts off less, and does stand for improvement. For example, if you don't get your 2s the second time, would it be better to dump all the 2s and go for 3s? This is where I implement strat 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than start off with the results from strat 1, which are only focusing on the 3s, I instead use the first roll of strat 2 to focus on acquiring doubles. Then, I shift focus: if I have both sets, haha, we're done here... thanks... If I have a set of 3s or a set of 2s, I keep it and ditch the other set: after all, it's silly to try to aim for that 1/6 chance to pick up the other set - much better odds in ditching those dice and put them into something that's already bearing fruit. Lastly, if I don't have a set, I default to just rolling all non 3s, which is the same as the original 'strat 1' and is shown to have a higher single-roll result than strat 2. And that yields an excellent result but still not better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the 5 reports:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;strat 1 roll 1&#xA;strat 1 roll 2&#xA;&#xA;strat 2 roll 1&#xA;strat 2 roll 2&#xA;&#xA;strat 3 roll 2 (its roll 1 is strat 2's roll 1)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the end result is that in this scenario, thus far the strategies indicate you should simply keep your 3s and go for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-12T18:58:29.830" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2014-02-12T18:33:04.037" Score="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effective Magic decks thrive on consistency. Exceeding the minimum deck size is only worth it if it gives you a powerful benefit you can't gain otherwise, like a surprising way to attack the metagame.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pushing your deck above 60 (or 40) cards makes it harder to find key cards, increases the risk of &quot;mana flood&quot; (drawing only lands, so you have nothing to cast) and &quot;mana screw&quot; (drawing too few lands, so you can't cast any of the spells in your hand), and makes it more likely that you'll draw unplayable hands. Generally speaking, this is not a good plan! Even in a casual environment where playing an optimal deck might not be your top priority, losing because of flood/screw or bad mulligans &lt;em&gt;isn't fun&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pro Tour Hall of Famer Frank Karsten wrote an article called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/frank-analysis-is-playing-more-than-60-cards-always-a-bad-idea/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Is Playing More Than 60 Cards Always a Bad Idea?&quot;&lt;/a&gt; to examine some special cases. His findings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding extra cards is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a good way to tweak mana ratios: the added variance of the 61st card tended to be greater than the value of getting your lands-to-spells number &lt;em&gt;just so&lt;/em&gt;. Frank's advice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Running a 61st card to add “half a land” to your deck is almost always wrong. If you really need to add half a land, then cut an expensive spell and add a cheap cantrip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Specific combo-style win conditions &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; justify going over the minimum number of cards. Examples are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBattle%20of%20Wits%5d&quot;&gt;Battle of Wits&lt;/a&gt; (which requires a huge library to win the game) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScapeshift%5d&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt; (which requires playing enough Mountains to one-shot your opponent with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bValakut%5d&quot;&gt;Valakut&lt;/a&gt; triggers). However, since increasing deck size hampers your ability to actually find your key cards, it seems that it's only worth it for one-card combo kills &amp;mdash; and you should play lots of tutoring and filtering cards so you can find them faster.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Very rarely, it'll be a good move to play a deck that has no win condition other than just letting your opponents run out of cards in their library. This is for lockdown archetypes like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFog%5d&quot;&gt;Fog&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStasis%5d&quot;&gt;Stasis&lt;/a&gt;. It's good to be aware of these archetypes because they sometimes come up in Limited, like the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLost%20in%20the%20Woods%5d&quot;&gt;Lost in the Woods&lt;/a&gt; &quot;combo&quot; in Dark Ascension Limited, or making your own surprising imitation of a Fog deck by just drafting a pile of removal and no good win conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that forced-card-draw spells or library recursion like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElixir%20of%20Immortality%5d&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; are probably better than diluting your deck, though. Try sticking a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlue%5d%2b%5bSun%27s%5d%2b%5bZenith%5d&quot;&gt;Blue Sun&amp;#39;s Zenith&lt;/a&gt; into your TurboStasis deck before you go adding extra cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's okay to experiment with deck size, but you should go into it armed with a good understanding of Magic strategy and probability, and the awareness that the overwhelming majority of such experiments are going to fail. In contrast, you pretty much can't go wrong playing exactly 60 cards in your Constructed deck, or 40 cards in your Limited deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2017-06-03T22:47:32.023" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T22:47:32.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14606" CreationDate="2014-02-12T21:01:17.977" Score="8" ViewCount="5829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I introduced a colleague to &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt;. He liked it and asked if I could recommend a similar game that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plays well with two people, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will be a bit more approachable for his partner, who's new to games (and might find Pandemic a bit fidgety or overwhelming to learn).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that came to mind is &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/em&gt; (which I own and like) or &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Desert&lt;/em&gt; (which I've been been hearing great things about). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before I recommend it though, I've never played either with just two players. Does does (one or both) hold up well with two players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5752" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-07T22:45:25.997" LastActivityDate="2018-07-07T22:45:25.997" Title="How well do Forbidden Desert and Forbidden Island play with two players?" Tags="|forbidden-island|two-player|forbidden-desert|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14605" CreationDate="2014-02-12T21:09:57.610" Score="12" ViewCount="9278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own and play both &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/em&gt;. In practice, I play &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt; more...but like &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Island&lt;/em&gt; too, when I think the former won't be quite accessible enough for someone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've now heard that &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Desert&lt;/em&gt; has some neat new design choices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the key differences between the two &quot;Forbidden&quot; games, and how do they play out? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the newest different enough that you recommend owning it in addition to the former? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For someone who doesn't have any of the above, how would you decide which &quot;Forbidden&quot; game to get them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5752" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-03T20:34:56.833" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T20:34:56.833" Title="Differences between Forbidden Island and Forbidden Desert?" Tags="|forbidden-island|forbidden-desert|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14598" CreationDate="2014-02-12T21:45:43.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a king can do that, but he has to land in between two pieces. If the diagonal had been &lt;code&gt;b - - w w - - -&lt;/code&gt;, he wouldn't have been able to capture the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, a king can change direction, but again, he has to land on the field where he changes direction. A player &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; capture as many pieces as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variants of draughts, as evidenced by &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the WikiPedia article&lt;/a&gt;. Pick one you like, or make up your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-13T07:31:06.120" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T07:31:06.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14603" CreationDate="2014-02-13T00:02:30.527" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own both, and will attempt to tackle each of your questions in turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What are the key differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Desert removes the 'shrinking map' clock, and adds two new clocks: each player has a canteen with a finite amount of water, and there are limited ways to refill peoples' canteens.  Each &quot;Sun Beats Down&quot; card causes everyone (there are exceptions) to have to drink some of their water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other new clock is the 'buried alive' clock- where tiles would be getting flooded in Forbidden Island, they instead accumulate more and more layers of sand.  If you run out of sand, the game   is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also retains the &quot;maxxed out the danger meter' clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing the 'shrinking map' mechanic is a 'moving map' mechanic- the game board is basically a 5x5 sliding-square puzzle, and between turns, the map gets shuffled around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The method for obtaining the MacGuffins is also changed, and player items are one-use-only and not shuffled back into the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it different enough to be worth it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, yes; absolutely.  It's definitely harder to 'win', but is different enough from Forbidden Island to not feel like a reskinned version of the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Which to get first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already are familiar with cooperation-driven games such as Pandemic, I would probably suggest Desert.  If you're also looking for a more introductory experience, I'd go with Island.  Both games would be good buys in the absence of the other, though, and if you prefer one theme to the other, let that make the decision for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6577" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T00:02:30.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14602" CreationDate="2014-02-13T00:04:10.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would probably, between the two, suggest Forbidden Desert, as one thing it brings that Island lacks is specific balancing based on the number of players in the game.  Desert's analog to the &quot;Flood Meter&quot; from Island has different tracks based on the number of players.  Also, unlike Island, Desert supports up to five players as designed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6577" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T00:04:10.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14608" CreationDate="2014-02-13T02:02:36.173" Score="3" ViewCount="12236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that for the most part you can only play one land per turn. However I also know that it is possible to put multiple lands onto the field with the effects of certain spells. I want to know if there are any limitations or certain situations where you cannot do this. I am especially curious about lands that have a tap ability to add land to your mana pool (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=376428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;New Benalia&quot;&gt;New Benalia&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376272&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boros Guildgate&lt;/a&gt;). Can I play a land from my hand and use their abilities to get two land per turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6880" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T18:35:19.277" Title="Playing Multiple Lands in One Turn" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14607" CreationDate="2014-02-13T02:59:24.657" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards don't &amp;quot;add land to your mana pool.&amp;quot; They add &lt;em&gt;mana&lt;/em&gt; to your mana pool.&lt;/strong&gt; The little symbols in card text and casting costs represent mana, which you get from tapping your lands (or from other cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Ingot&quot;&gt;Darksteel Ingot&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seething%20Song&quot;&gt;Seething Song&lt;/a&gt;), not the lands themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=New%20Benalia&quot;&gt;New Benalia&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, &amp;quot;{T}: Add {W} to your mana pool,&amp;quot; is actually the same as the ability of a basic Plains card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.6. The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the&#xA;words “basic land type,” it’s referring to one of these subtypes. A land with a basic land type has&#xA;the intrinsic ability “{T}: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,” even if the text box doesn’t&#xA;actually contain that text or the object has no text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is {W}; for&#xA;Islands, {U}; for Swamps, {B}; for Mountains, {R}; and for Forests, {G}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have New Benalia and a Plains on the battlefield, you can tap both to make two white mana (like the casting cost for a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Precinct%20Captain&quot;&gt;Precinct Captain&lt;/a&gt;), just like if you had two Plains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that actually put more land into play say things like &amp;quot;Search your library for a basic land card and put that card onto the battlefield tapped&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;You may play an additional land this turn&amp;quot; (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Explore&quot;&gt;Explore&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-15T00:37:51.447" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T00:37:51.447" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-13T06:45:08.933" Score="4" ViewCount="4031" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i have a sorcery or instant or creature ability that allows me to return target permanent to its owners hand, can I use that ability or spell to return permanents from my graveyard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6611" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T06:53:23.470" Title="Returning permanents from my graveyard" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14609" CreationDate="2014-02-13T06:53:23.470" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only objects on the battlefield are called &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Permanent&quot;&gt;permanents&lt;/a&gt;. In the graveyard, they are just cards. You can only return cards from the graveyard to the battlefield or to your hand if the spell or ability specifically says &quot;from the graveyard&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T06:53:23.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14612" CreationDate="2014-02-13T11:11:35.080" Score="6" ViewCount="9256" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that you can chose to put your commander in the command zone instead of putting it in the graveyard or it being exiled. Putting it in the command zone is a replacement for putting it in the graveyard, so &quot;When X is put in the graveyard&quot; effects don't trigger if you put it in the command zone when it &quot;dies&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you put your commander in the graveyard to  trigger a &quot;Graveyard effect&quot; on it and your graveyard is subsequently exiled can you put your commander in the command zone rather than exiling it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T11:36:29.817" Title="If your Commander is in your graveyard when your graveyard is exiled can you return it to the command zone?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14611" CreationDate="2014-02-13T11:36:29.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can put it back into the command zone when it's exiled from your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.12. If a commander would be put into the exile zone from anywhere, its owner may put it into the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T11:36:29.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13600" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:37:22.340" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;the combo one goes till the opponent is at 0 life it is not infinite. The life has to come from somewhere if no opponent has life/ they are at 0 life the the combo ends. And the hex proof/ platinum angel thing do stop the combo but not in a draw. The opponent will be at zero, just not dead.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6885" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:37:22.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14602" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:43:22.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Desert does play well with two players, and is a bit less intimidating than Pandemic.  Just be warned that it is hard, even starting at the lowest difficulty level.  In comparison Forbidden Island is pretty much a cake walk as long as you know what you're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:43:22.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13661" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:49:22.640" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main problem here is that player 1 does not have an unlimited amount of Provinces to buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if there is one Province left and p1 buys it, p2 could buy 10 Provinces that are not there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're going with this house rule, you should let p1 buy phantom Provinces as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4904" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:49:22.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14602" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:53:20.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Island can be a bit tough with 2 players, mainly because of the hand limit restrictions. I've had mostly close calls at normal difficulty level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're playing with 2 players, I advise to just play 2 characters each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4904" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:53:20.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14555" CreationDate="2014-02-13T14:57:12.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I advise you to play with 2 characters each, you only have 14 hours to spend with 2 players on a given day vs. 28 with 4 players, so you have way more time with 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4904" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T14:57:12.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14598" CreationDate="2014-02-13T22:41:35.373" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flying kings are used in International Draughts but are not used in American Checkers.  International Draughts is usually played on a 10x10 board, with American Checkers on an 8x8 board.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6890" LastActivityDate="2014-02-13T22:41:35.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-02-14T12:23:48.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created templates for printing on the 'Spare cards' that come with the expansion packs.&#xA;I then bought Avery Crystal Clear labels (L7784)and used a laser printer to print them out. I cut them to size then applied them to the blanks and they look and feel almost identical to the Originals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6894" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T12:23:48.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14627" CreationDate="2014-02-14T13:55:23.037" Score="9" ViewCount="3564" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this issue come up in a game last night, and we weren't sure how to handle it. Player A had &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/mi/en/274.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Welding Jar&lt;/a&gt; and another artifact in play. Player B cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m14/en/186.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; targeting the Welding Jar. In response, Player A sacrificed Welding Jar to regenerate itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible to do? I understand that Welding Jar is going into the graveyard either way, as sacrificed creatures can't be regenerated, but can Welding Jar legally target itself with it's own ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: If this seems non-sensical, let's assume that Player A has something in play like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/som/en/90.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Furnace Celebration&lt;/a&gt; that gives them a benefit for sacrificing the Welding Jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T15:57:16.403" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T10:13:15.297" Title="Can Welding Jar target itself?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14625" CreationDate="2014-02-14T13:58:14.393" Score="1" ViewCount="5739" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is regarding the 'Curse' Auras from Innistrad block, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/dka/en/5.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of Exhaustion&lt;/a&gt;. When the player enchanted by the Curse dies, what happens to the Curse. Does it remain in play with no actual target or effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T14:57:50.907" Title="What happens to a Curse when the Enchanted Player dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14622" CreationDate="2014-02-14T14:17:49.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Aura is put into your graveyard due to 303.4b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4b If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or &lt;strong&gt;the player it was&#xA;attached to has left the game&lt;/strong&gt;, the Aura is put into its owner’s&#xA;graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you had two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curse%20of%20Exhaustion&quot;&gt;Curse of Exhaustion&lt;/a&gt; in play enchanting two players that somehow died simultaneously, both Auras would be put into the graveyard simultaneously, due to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority [...], the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T14:57:50.907" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T14:57:50.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14621" CreationDate="2014-02-14T14:19:23.253" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welding Jar can target itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell or activate an ability, you choose targets (601.2c) before paying costs (601.2g). So the Welding Jar is still on the battlefield when it's time to choose targets, and is a valid target for its own ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That ability will fizzle, of course, since you've already put Welding Jar in the graveyard by the time it would resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T14:35:26.807" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T14:35:26.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14630" CreationDate="2014-02-14T16:26:28.047" Score="4" ViewCount="4962" Body="&lt;p&gt;is it possible to return an enchantment creature card (like &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373720&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Baleful Eidolon&lt;/a&gt;) with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378378&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dawn to Dusk&lt;/a&gt; from the graveyard? I'm not sure if an enchantment creature is a special type or just two types (enchantment and creature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T16:34:47.440" Title="Is an Enchantment Creature card an Enchantment card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14629" CreationDate="2014-02-14T16:34:47.440" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. Baleful Eidolon is an enchantment and a creature. Anything which targets or affects either of these permanent types can target or affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T16:34:47.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14631" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14632" CreationDate="2014-02-14T16:47:42.617" Score="3" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=9773&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Cheese Stands Alone&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136048&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barren Glory&lt;/a&gt;) and destroy my other permanents somehow, will I win the game if I currently have a card suspended? Do that count as a card in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T16:56:50.850" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:22:42.080" Title="Will suspend foil a &quot;Cheesy&quot; victory?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14631" CreationDate="2014-02-14T16:47:42.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.61b A card is &quot;suspended&quot; if it's in the exile zone, has suspend, and has a time counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Exile&quot;&gt;ruling&lt;/a&gt; on exile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exile is a gamezone &lt;strong&gt;outside the field of play&lt;/strong&gt;. It was known as&#xA;  &quot;Removed from the game&quot; before it was renamed in the wake of the Magic&#xA;  2010 rules update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T16:47:42.617" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14631" CreationDate="2014-02-14T17:07:10.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;will I win the game if I currently have a card suspended?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do that count as a card in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, &quot;In play&quot; is the old wording of &quot;on the battlefield&quot;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. Suspended cards aren't on the battlefield. They are found in the exile zone, so they do not prevent the ability from triggering or resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.61b A card is &quot;suspended&quot; if it's in the exile zone, has suspend, and has a time counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability checks the following two zones: The battlefield and your hand. Cards in libraries, in graveyards, on the stack, in the ante zone, in the command zone or in other players' hand do not prevent the ability from triggering or resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even win with BG on the turn a suspended card &quot;unsuspends&quot;. Simply place the suspended card's triggered ability on the stack first and BG's triggered ability on the stack second. BG's triggered ability will resolve before you have a chance to cast the suspended card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference&lt;/a&gt; (See &lt;em&gt;2A) Battlefield&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T18:22:42.080" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:22:42.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14637" CreationDate="2014-02-14T18:19:27.813" Score="5" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually have two questions concerning &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I put the enchantment &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt; onto my battlefield, and choose &amp;quot;Wall&amp;quot; for creature type, will all my creatures automatically become &amp;quot;defenders&amp;quot; since walls can't attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Dreamer&quot;&gt;Mistform Dreamer&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt; (and choose Wall for creature type), will the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Dreamer&quot;&gt;Mistform Dreamer&lt;/a&gt; activated ability be able to overwrite &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt;'s effect, or will the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Dreamer&quot;&gt;Mistform Dreamer&lt;/a&gt; just get an additional creature type besides being a Wall? Or will &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt; overwrite &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Dreamer&quot;&gt;Mistform Dreamer&lt;/a&gt; activated ability thus making it a Wall only?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T18:36:32.807" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:36:32.807" Title="How do Mistform Dreamer and Conspiracy interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2014-02-14T18:28:20.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question 1. No. from the ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=108914&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;gatherer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8/1/2005  If you choose Wall, then your creatures can still attack&#xA;  because creature types don't confer abilities such as defender (any&#xA;  more than, say, choosing creature type Bird would confer flying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question  2. Mistform Dreamer's ability will 'overrwrite' the effect of Conspiracy (&lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1030&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 613:  Interaction of Continuous Effects&lt;/a&gt;, specifically 613.2 which instructs you to 'apply effects in timestamp order')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-02-14T18:36:15.243" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:36:15.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14635" CreationDate="2014-02-14T18:31:37.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) No; in fact, the creature subtype 'Wall' has long since lost any rules weight, and there's no reason that Walls &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; attack other than that they have (either through print or via errata) the 'defender' ability: if a Wall were printed without defender, then it would be able to attack just like any other creature.  This is confirmed in the rulings you can find on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=108914&quot;&gt;the Gatherer page for Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8/1/2005&lt;/strong&gt;  If you choose Wall, then your creatures can still attack because&#xA;  creature types don't confer abilities such as defender (any more than,&#xA;  say, choosing creature type Bird would confer flying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) This becomes a bit more complicated.  The key notion is the concept of &lt;em&gt;timestamping&lt;/em&gt;; you can find the specific details in section 613.6 of the comprehensive rules, but the key pieces are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.6. Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an&#xA;  earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.6a A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of&#xA;  the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.6b A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability receives a timestamp at the time it’s created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the effect generated by the resolution of Mistform Dreamer's ability to set its creature type is 'newer' than the effect generated by Conspiracy, the subtype change from Conspiracy is applied first, then the subtype change from the Dreamer's own ability, leaving the Mistform Dreamer as whatever subtype you set it with its own ability.  But note that this effect will wear off at EOT when the ability is cleaned up, and whenever you &lt;em&gt;haven't&lt;/em&gt; activated Mistform Dreamer's ability in a turn, it will be whatever creature type Conspiracy is set to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T18:31:37.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2014-02-14T21:20:51.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This are my homemade rules, tested in several games. The trick is just: reuse the setup for four players (since that setting is widely tested) and make a limit to avoid &quot;unbalances&quot; toward one of the two colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here i use &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;colors&lt;/em&gt; meaning the faction that is playing and not the player (because in a 1on1 each player controls two factions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the first two turns (that is: each &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; will play two times) the &lt;strong&gt;robber&lt;/strong&gt; can't be triggered, so a roll of seven means: reroll.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the robber can't be placed again in the same hexagon if a seven is rolled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both the development cards or the ports (if the &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; just build a colony attached to a port) can be played/used in the next turn of the &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; after their construction. In one turn a &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; can play one development card (except victory points). Moreover if a settlement is built by a &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; it cannot be upgraded to a city in the same turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the start of the game the colonies can be placed only on crossroads where &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; roads intersect, so no all ports at the start can be directly used. (explanation in the comments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player will play &lt;em&gt;two colors&lt;/em&gt; as they were independent (except for trading, we will see this after). So, at the start, when the player set the cycle of &lt;em&gt;colors&lt;/em&gt; during the turn, the player that will play first will play as first and as third (deciding which &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; is first and which is &lt;em&gt;third&lt;/em&gt;), the player that will play as second will do the same, playing as second and as fourth. The placement of the colonies and so on will follow the original rules for the game with four players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remember that even if a player controls two &lt;em&gt;colors&lt;/em&gt; each color is independent of the other and can block the other color as well, as they were enemies (so the player should be careful in the develop of the game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the trading between the &lt;em&gt;colors&lt;/em&gt; of the same player is without costs, but since each &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; is independent the benefit of a port of the color A can't be shared with the color B (in the case that both are controlled by the same player) if the color B is playing (that is: except for the trading cost, you follow the rules of catan with 4 players).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A settlements or roads can be built only if there is a &lt;em&gt;clear&lt;/em&gt; conjunction with a previous settlement of the &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt;. That is: given the configuration SRRR[eventual more roads] (where S is settlement or city and R is road) for the color A, that is a &quot;long road&quot; without settlements except for the first; if another color build a settlement (&lt;em&gt;S&lt;/em&gt;) over this roaad, for example: SRR_S_R, then the color A cannot build other roads starting from the last road, because the last road is disconnected (due to &lt;em&gt;S&lt;/em&gt;) from the previous settlement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;victory condition&lt;/strong&gt;: the player that reach with a &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; 10 or more points win &lt;strong&gt;if and only if&lt;/strong&gt; the other color that is under his control has at least 5 points (else the game continue), and, to raise the difficulty (just try and see) you can require that the other color needs 6 points at least (instead of 5). &lt;strong&gt;Warning&lt;/strong&gt; if a &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; reach ten or more points, it becomes inactive, that is: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;it doesn't collect any new resource&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (but it can play what is remaining). (as if the game is ended with four players); else a player can just develop one color to help, afterwards, the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;construction interrupted: a road or a city, of a given &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt;, can be built, following the basic rules of the games, only if the place of construction is directly connected with (at least) one existing road of the same &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; that is not interrupted by any other color (&lt;strong&gt;the allied color is not ok&lt;/strong&gt;). That is: (i) all the segments of the road are connected each other as the game requires; (ii) the road is connected with at least one village/city of the &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; (from which the resources, to build the new structure, come) and there is no village/city of other colors that stands between two segment of the road and that is nearer to the construction site than any other village/city of the &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; itself (it is like that if there is a village/city of another color, this city stops all the traffic to the construction site. Even if the other color is an allied color).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;allied colors fight for prizes&lt;/strong&gt;: if a player that control two colors has both with a road of seven segments, no color gets the reward &quot;the longest road&quot;. Because it is like that the color are allied but not willing to let the other color &quot;took prizes just to win the war&quot;. So the player should play carefully to not play against himself. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;handicaps&lt;/strong&gt;: if a player is too strong the other can get a bonus (don't look down to handicaps/bonus, the point of a game is have a challenge and not won with ease / lose without hope. Try them in quakelive!). For example: a player can place, at the start, cities instead of villages for each 2nd choice of each &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt;. Still getting one resource card for every adjacent hexagon at the very start but, during the game, having since the start a city for each color. Another alternative can be place a city instead of a village for the 2nd choice of the 2nd managed &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; of the player (this because the 2nd choices for each &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; normally can use spots that are not so good as the 1st choices, and the 2nd managed &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; place the 2nd choice before the 1st managed &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; so more good spots are available). And so on, you can test out your own bonuses/handicaps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;suggestion to define the best player&lt;/strong&gt;: the two players should play &lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt; subgames, rotating the colors sequence. This to allow a better distribution of the result of the dice, because in some games the dice can show very few &quot;probable&quot; numbers. So if the &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt; subgame sequence is &lt;em&gt;red, blue, white, yellow&lt;/em&gt; , then the &lt;strong&gt;second&lt;/strong&gt; subgame sequence will be &lt;em&gt;blue, white, yellow, red&lt;/em&gt; (or the alternative shift, i mean yellow, red, blue, white), the &lt;strong&gt;third&lt;/strong&gt; subgame will be &lt;em&gt;W, Y, R, B&lt;/em&gt; (or the accordingly alternative shift) and the &lt;strong&gt;last&lt;/strong&gt; subgame will be &lt;em&gt;Y, R, B, W&lt;/em&gt; (or the accordingly alternative shift). In every game the fraction of each player is counted and then the sum of every subgame define the best player. So if in the 1st subgame the player, for now called P1, with R and W makes 17 points (remember: the minimum is 15) and the other player, P2, makes 12 points; then in the second subgame P1 (always controlling the same colors) makes 14 points and P2 (again, controlling the same color of the 1st subgame) makes 15 points; in the 3rd subgame P1 makes 16 points and P2 makes 14; in the 4th subgame P1 makes 11 points and P2 makes 18 points. Then the sums are: P1 = 17/29 + 14/29 + 16/30 + 11/29 ; P2 = 12/29 + 15/29 + 14/30 + 18/29 ; where P1 = 862/435 &amp;lt; P2 = 878/435 , therefore P2 wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6900" LastEditorUserId="6900" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T18:33:19.290" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T18:33:19.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11280" CreationDate="2014-02-14T23:12:05.437" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To see what beats what in any version draw out just the circle and whatever gets beat by something go 1/2 of the total if the amount is even and 1 more than half if it's odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6901" LastActivityDate="2014-02-14T23:12:05.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6310" CreationDate="2014-02-15T09:42:43.273" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Others have already mentioned the general history of the three games, but I can add a bit about hnefatafl itself.  The game seems to have similarities to an earlier Roman game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://tafl.cyningstan.org.uk/page/168/rules-for-ludus-latrunculorum&quot;&gt;ludus latrunculorum&lt;/a&gt;, which was descended from an ancient Greek game, petteia.  Both of these older games shared hnefatafl's straight-line move and its capture method of surrounding enemy pieces on opposite sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Roman game made its way as far as Denmark, and this is where the A.D. 400 date that everybody quotes comes from.  It's actually the date of a Roman ludus latrunculorum board dug up in Vimose, Denmark, in 1848, rather than a hnefatafl board (the back of the board bore the squares for ludus duodecim scriptorum, a Roman predecessor to backgammon).  Hnefatafl was developed, probably from ludus latrunculorum, some time between A.D. 400 and A.D. 750 which is when the first clear hnefatafl evidence shows up (a set of pieces in Salmo, Estonia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this I'd say that hnefatafl doesn't have any direct relationship to chess.  Petteia may have made its way to the borders of India with Alexander the Great, and thus seeded chess as well as hnefatafl, but there's no evidence for this.  Hnefatafl was chess's predecessor only in its social position, not through any line of descent - chess was a usurper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for go, I can't imagine that there's any connection.  It wasn't known in Europe till after hnefatafl had passed out of general knowledge.  There is a coincidence of the standard size of the modern go board, at 19x19 intersections, with ONE old form of hnefatafl (the alea evangelii, c. A.D. 924-939), and that board from Vimose had 18 squares along one edge, but probably fewer along the other axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6902" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T09:42:43.273" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-02-15T11:41:57.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A simple solution if you are willing and able to spend some money:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy another copy of the game, a foam paint brush, and a small container of white paint. Using the foam brush you can paint a nice, even, thin coat of white paint over the face of the cards and use a black permanent marker when they dry to write whatever your heart desires!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1119" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T11:41:57.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-02-15T16:38:17.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a few good games and haven't won yet, but I've always like the combination of Dinosaur Robots (aka Dinobots, referring to Transformers). Using the strong power of the Dinos and using the extra plays with the 'Bots has proven effective with the base cards and Tech Centre action to draw cards. I've tried Dinos and Plants (aka A Force of Nature) but it didn't go too well, still I've only used it once so I might use it again. I like to experiment on Dinos + anything other than 'Bots and see if it's effective. The Bearmen + Aliens combo has been really annoying against me because it prevents me from dealing with them at times and sending my minions back to my hand in others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6906" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T16:38:17.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14650" CreationDate="2014-02-15T18:01:56.823" Score="0" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, most players today bid five card majors, because that's (probably) the best way to get to a major suit game of ten tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose my team has a part score of 40. That means that two of a major or three of a minor will give us game. Under those circumstances, does it make sense to say that a one level bid implies four of a suit, major or minor? Because I no longer see the need for a five card major, and likewise, don't see the need for a &quot;convenient&quot; three card minor. Instead, every bid could be &quot;gamegoing.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I prefer strong no trumps. But could a weak 1NT (12-14 hcps) be better if we need to go only to the two level to complete the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any systems or experts that advocate modifying one's bids in these, or similar fashions, with a part score?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T01:47:34.280" Title="In bridge, does it make sense to &quot;shade&quot; one's bidding standards with a part score?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14669" CreationDate="2014-02-15T20:35:55.370" Score="5" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;Archipelago has some evolution cards that fit quite well in a multiplayer game, but in the solo game, they make little or no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the &quot;Financial Advisor&quot; gives you 1 florin for every 5 florin you reveal to your opponents. How should this be played in a solo match? It does nothing? I get 1 florin for every 5 I have? Should I remove it from the solo game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar happens with the &quot;Queen&quot; card. She adds 2 free florin to the order of play bid which is skipped in solo games. Again, should I remove it? Should I simply assume it does nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many other examples. How do you deal with those cards? Are there any special rules about that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-03-22T07:08:31.987" LastActivityDate="2014-03-22T07:08:31.987" Title="What to do about evolution cards that don't work well in solo games?" Tags="|archipelago|archipelago-solo-exp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-15T21:45:34.363" Score="1" ViewCount="587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Reverence&quot;&gt;Wall of Reverence&lt;/a&gt; is already in play. I play my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voracious%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Voracious Wurm&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voracious Wurm enters the battlefield with X +1/+1 counters on it, where X is the amount of life you've gained this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as this is not a triggered ability, but a replacement effect, would I be able to gain life at my end step with Wall of Reverence's triggered ability, then add to the stack my Wurm's ability to gain X +1/+1 counters? (After all, that's life I gained in my turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following rules seem relevant here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen -- they aren't locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like &amp;quot;shields&amp;quot; around whatever they're affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1d Continuous effects that read &amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield . . .&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;[Objects] enter the battlefield . . .&amp;quot; are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6909" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-16T00:19:29.913" LastActivityDate="2014-02-16T00:19:29.913" Title="Voracious Wurm and Wall of Reverence: which trigger happens first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14646" CreationDate="2014-02-15T22:24:57.757" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Replacement effects do not use the stack; as rule 614.1 (which you quoted) says, &quot;[R]eplacement effects apply continuously &lt;strong&gt;as events happen&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; — i.e., they happen immediately, at the same time as the event being replaced/modified (in this case, Voracious Wurm entering the battlefield).  Thus, if Voracious Wurm enters the battlefield before the beginning of the end step, it won't benefit from Wall of Reverence's lifegain (but the Wall will be able to target the Wurm later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the Wurm somehow (say, by giving it flash) enters the battlefield during the end step (or, less likely, the cleanup step) &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the Wall's ability resolves, its P/T &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be boosted by the lifegain from the Wall — but, of course, the Wall can't target the Wurm until your next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if, for some strange reason, the Wurm enters the battlefield while the Wall's ability is still on the stack, the replacement effect will happen before the Wall's ability resolves, so the counters won't be boosted, and as targets for the Wall's ability must have already been chosen by that point, the Wall won't be able to target the Wurm that turn either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-02-15T22:24:57.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14644" CreationDate="2014-02-17T01:40:35.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Against weaker players than yourselves, the opposite is more likely to pay off. Traditionally, strong rubber bridge players deliberately sandbag with a part score, inviting the opponents to &lt;em&gt;save&lt;/em&gt; against the &lt;em&gt;game bid&lt;/em&gt; and then doubling for penalties. One or two such penalties easily replaces the (possibly) lost rubber bonus, and any others are bonus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A side benefit is that aggressive slams are not bid, so any slams actually bid are high odds. This is also sound strategy with a partscore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against stronger players than yourselves, just bid your normal cards. Strong opponents will quickly note if you are stretching with a partscore, and get their doubling boots on to collect a pound of your flesh. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the unusual circumstance that you are playing opponents exactly as strong as you, it probably doesn't matter as they will be making the same sorts of strategic mistakes that you are, and it will all be a wash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to improve as a bridge player, start counting the cards (more thoroughly, more smoothly, more naturally than you already are) instead of looking for &lt;em&gt;silly bidding tricks&lt;/em&gt;. This will strengthen the game of both you and partner, without subjecting partner to possible ethical dilemmas about whether or not this is a circumstance in which the two of you have &lt;strong&gt;agreed&lt;/strong&gt; to bid light, or heavy, or normal. It also reduces partner's memory load, which is always beneficial regardless of one's level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T01:47:34.280" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T01:47:34.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T02:31:00.160" Score="0" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have a lot of star trek 1E through to voyager, Vampire the masquerade, Shadowfist, jedi knights, rage, Battletech, alien vs predator CCG cards i'm trying to sell but have no idea where to sell them, anyone able to help me please? They're taking up space that i don't have to spare. In all it's probably around 20 to 25k cards all up....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6916" LastEditorUserId="6916" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T17:37:46.927" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T17:37:46.927" Title="Where can i sell my CCG cards?" Tags="|star-trek-ccg|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-02-17T02:58:18.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2014-02-17T11:44:41.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Principle_of_least_astonishment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Principle of Least Astonishment&lt;/a&gt;. If you use common elements, make them behave in the common way.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If people (think) they know what to do, they'll do it. If they don't know, they might look it up. So if you use elements that are (relatively) unique, make them &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; unique, so players won't assume they'll know what to do with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use pawns as something other than pieces that move around the board. Don't use them as markers or counters. If you want those, make them look different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you include regular dice, players will see &lt;code&gt;piece + dice = roll + move&lt;/code&gt;, even if the rules state differently. Change the dice to look different from regular dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2021-01-12T16:39:02.070" LastActivityDate="2021-01-12T16:39:02.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2014-02-17T12:36:12.217" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just one time(maybe because my beck is no good sufferd(i had draw 10 cluds with A K J xxxxxxx And a voice in H.&#xA;I just thing to call 6c but in trying i understand that is wrong.&#xA;If both aces or AK in one of 2 is on my opponent 5c is nice only 10 trick is rarely with this hand).&#xA;But if have both ace is 12 tricks and if A A K is 13 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 5c bet is wrong. 6c is also wrong.&#xA;i must talk to my parents that i have a voice in H and ask him who many Aces haves. &#xA;This hand is no in real game but in borring opening try.&#xA;If i take this again i opening 1c And after replay beting 3h(RKCB with Void).&#xA;The rest is easy with an ace or 2 ace ask with King. If both miss Final 5c is correct.&#xA;If only an ace miss 6c if all AA is ok ang both King miss 6c And AA K found 7c.&#xA;My plan...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 11 cards the thing is looks like the same. 12 with A is at least slam.&#xA;13 is out of Question grand slam...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6919" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T12:36:12.217" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-17T13:37:08.830" Score="4" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;My parents taught me how to play bridge. They grew up in the 1970s when Precision Club was popular and they taught me how to play strong club. When I grew up, SAYC and 2/1 were beaten into me. Now, I live in England where people play Acol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm wondering what other (legal) approaches are there? There are 5 card majors, 4 card majors, strong opening bids, etc. but what else is out there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6920" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T17:11:25.860" Title="What Other Bidding Approaches Are There?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14654" CreationDate="2014-02-17T17:11:25.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;“legal” is a meaningless question without knowing where you are, and, in many regions, some methods are only legal at higher levels of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the more common uncommon system types (systems may also fit into more than one category):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Canapé: opening the shorter of your two suits. (How they bid one-suited and balanced hands varies.) This was used a fair amount by the Italian Blue Team in their heyday, and Blue Team Club is an example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-strong forcing openings: There’s a forcing opening that isn’t necessarily strong. Polish Club is a well-known example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forcing pass: pass promises strength (often opening values), and most or all initial bids therefore deny it. There’s usually one opening bid reserved for the truly awful hands, and the rest show some strength. These methods are banned in a lot of regions, and are (IIRC) fairly regulated even in international events.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strong pass: Pass contains both the terrible hands and some stronger, but limited hands. Many opening bids are still limited to intermediate values, but the initial pass is itself passable, so the systems are less weird. (AFAIK, these methods are pretty uncommon.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relay methods: Don’t govern the opening bid as such, but in some auctions (generally strong ones) the players don’t mutually describe their hands. Instead, one player uses atrificial bids, often simply the next available bid, and their partner responds, providing succesively more information until their partner thinks they can place the contract.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’m sure I’m forgetting some broad categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, there are lots of individual systems whose designers decide that some particular attribute of the hand should be emphasized in some way, and build a system around that. So, you might have a system where 1C and 1D deny or promise a 4-card major; or a system where opening 1 major denies 5 cards, showing 4 or 6+; or a system that opens 4-card majors, but only on minimum opening hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5089" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T17:11:25.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14659" CreationDate="2014-02-17T18:23:17.773" Score="6" ViewCount="1570" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if both players have only 3 cards in their library and I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202558&quot;&gt;Wheel of Fortune&lt;/a&gt; (Each player discards his/her hand and draws seven cards) ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it any different if one player has 1 card and the other player has 3 ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T19:08:05.003" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T20:03:03.743" Title="Not enough cards for both players when casting Wheel of Fortune" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14661" CreationDate="2014-02-17T18:30:52.777" Score="3" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the title is self-explaining :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I cast cost-less cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=113521&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Living End&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5105&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dream Halls&lt;/a&gt; by discarding a black card ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T19:53:42.617" Title="Can I cast cost-less cards like Living End with Dream Halls?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14656" CreationDate="2014-02-17T19:10:29.263" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the relevant Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3c If a player is required to draw more cards than are left in his or her library, he or she draws the remaining cards, and then loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing happens until a player would get priority, so the order in which the players drew the cards doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.4. Unlike triggered abilities, state-based actions pay no attention to what happens during the resolution of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the SBAs are performed simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the players would lose simultaneously if it were not for the following exception:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4a If all the players remaining in a game lose simultaneously, the game is a draw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the game ends in a draw. Because the rules pay no attention to what's happening during the spell's resolution, having more cards doesn't protect you in this case. As soon as state-based actions are checked (i.e. after the spell resolves) you both lose the game at the same time and it's therefore a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T20:03:03.743" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T20:03:03.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14657" CreationDate="2014-02-17T19:48:16.490" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20End&quot;&gt;Living End&lt;/a&gt; has a mana cost of &amp;quot;unpayable&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dream%20Halls&quot;&gt;Dream Halls&lt;/a&gt; introduces an alternative cost of &amp;quot;discard a card that shares a color with the spell&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= (mana cost or alternative cost) + (additional costs and cost increases) - cost reductions&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= discard a card that shares a color with the spell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.6. Some mana costs contain no mana symbols. This represents an &lt;em&gt;unpayable cost&lt;/em&gt;. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.6a [...] If an alternative cost is applied to an unpayable cost, including an effect that allows a player to cast a spell without paying its mana cost, the alternative cost may be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just in case there's any doubt, Living End is black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;204.2. An object with a color indicator is each color denoted by that color indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It had a characteristic-defining ability when it was printed, but it now has a color indicator. Characteristic-defining abilities work in all zones, so the answer would have been the same before the change.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T19:53:42.617" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T19:53:42.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14663" CreationDate="2014-02-17T19:57:25.667" Score="9" ViewCount="13415" Body="&lt;p&gt;When can you counter a suspend card (when it is suspended or when the final time counters get removed) and would I need to play a counterspell (counter a spell) or a stifle (counters an ability) to do so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T22:12:08.817" Title="When are suspend card counterable" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14662" CreationDate="2014-02-17T20:03:50.847" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you move a suspend card from your hand to the exile zone, you are performing a special action, much like playing a land. This cannot be stopped by a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;, nor even by a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of your subsequent upkeeps, a triggered ability removes a time counter. This can be stopped by a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;. (Note: Stifling the &amp;quot;remove a counter&amp;quot; trigger won't permanently stop the spell, you will simply delay the spell by a turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the final time counter is removed, another triggered ability (which can also be the target of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; and friends) will cast the suspended spell upon resolution. At that point, the spell will finally be on the stack, and a legal target for cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T20:26:04.747" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T20:26:04.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14662" CreationDate="2014-02-17T20:13:08.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suspended cards have three abilities, two of which may be countered. To understand why, we first need to understand how to counter a spell, and the various abilities associated with the &lt;code&gt;Suspend&lt;/code&gt; keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.5a To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we know that a spell or ability must be on the stack in order to be countered. Now we explore the three Suspend abilities, and determine which can be countered and which can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Ability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspend N—[cost]” means “If you could begin to cast this card by putting it onto the stack from your hand, you may pay [cost]&#xA;and exile it with N time counters on it. This action does not use the&#xA;stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first ability is a &lt;em&gt;special action&lt;/em&gt; that does not use the stack. It cannot be countered or even responded to at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Ability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, if this card is suspended, remove a&#xA;time counter from it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second ability is a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt; that uses the stack. It can be countered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;. This typically only serves to delay the suspension by a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third Ability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the last time counter is removed from this card, if it’s exiled,&#xA;play it without paying its mana cost if able. If you can’t, it remains&#xA;exiled. If you cast a creature spell this way, it gains haste until&#xA;you lose control of the spell or the permanent it becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This final ability is also a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt; which puts a &lt;em&gt;spell&lt;/em&gt; on the stack. The triggered ability may be countered with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;, or the spell may be countered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;. If the ability is countered, the previously suspended card remains in exile, where it is typically never able to trigger again. Countered spells go to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-02-17T22:12:08.817" LastActivityDate="2014-02-17T22:12:08.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14666" CreationDate="2014-02-18T00:50:37.007" Score="2" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading the rules for the Count of Carcassonne, I am still unclear on a couple of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, in a game, can any quarter of Carcassonne have 2 or more followers from more than one color? by example: in the castle 2 black and one yellow, in the blacksmith 1 black, 1 yellow and 1 blue, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, with the shrines and heretics expansion, can I move a follower from Cascassonne's cloister to the completed shrine? Does the rule work the same way as for monasteries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T06:02:04.653" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T06:02:04.653" Title="Multiple followers, and moving onto shrines in the Count expansion" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14665" CreationDate="2014-02-18T06:00:07.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Yes, you can certainly have multiple followers of different colours in each quarter. This is quite explicit in &lt;a href=&quot;http://upsilon.cc/~zack/teaching/1011/gla/carcassonne/count.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...when a city, road, cloister or farm is scored, all players with followers in the appropriate quarter of Carcassonne... may move their followers from Carcassonne to the scoring feature before the majority is determined in the feature being scored, unless the Count is standing in that quarter of Carcassonne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability for each player to store up multiple followers is an essential part of the strategy for the expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Yes, shrines are treated as cloisters for the purposes of moving followers from Carcassonne. From the FAQ at &lt;a href=&quot;http://carc.mjharper.de/page0/page0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Central&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I move followers from the city of Carcassonne (from the cathedral?) into a shrine during scoring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, shrines and cloisters are treated in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T06:00:07.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14667" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-18T12:37:23.607" Score="-7" ViewCount="3556" Body="&lt;p&gt;The background to this is that in our group we have one player that drafts every week, goes to all the events and spends several hundred pounds on Magic each month. When we play casually he cannot understand my point that he is simply buying the win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm trying to do is build the best Commander deck possible using proxies to show that if I spend enough money on a deck I will win every game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/100cardsingleton-commander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; being the current ban list and every other card available, what is the best commander deck I can make? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To define best im looking for somthing fast so it cant be focused on by the groop, hard to counter or stop once i have the combo cards, diverse so that the combo can be activated with multiple cards so the groop does not see it coming in folowing games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="1434" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T17:26:39.080" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:03:25.213" Title="MTG Best commander deck money can buy" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-02-18T16:01:07.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14667" CreationDate="2014-02-18T15:29:49.693" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Five-Color &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hermit%20Druid&quot;&gt;Hermit Druid&lt;/a&gt; is regularly considered the fastest style of combo deck in the format. (Occasionally, it's built as BGx, usually BUG, rather than WUBRG.) Combo decks in general are absolutely the strongest archetype in the (multiplayer) format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core build of the deck is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ZERO&lt;/strong&gt; basic lands (this alone makes the deck rather expensive to build)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hermit%20Druid&quot;&gt;Hermit Druid&lt;/a&gt; (this makes green necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tutors to find Hermit Druid (this makes black necessary)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fast mana to cast tutors and get Hermit Druid into play as fast as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One or both of:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection for Hermit Druid, so that it can survive a turn cycle and lose summoning sickness without getting killed off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Haste for Hermit Druid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With zero basic lands, a single activation of Hermit Druid will put your entire deck in your graveyard. From there, you have many choices of a game-winning combo to pick from (which makes WUBRG popular, as you have the pick of the litter when it comes to the combos). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dread%20Return&quot;&gt;Dread Return&lt;/a&gt; is a common enabler, as something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Narcomoeba&quot;&gt;Narcomoeba&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reassembling%20Skeleton&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton&lt;/a&gt; can get you up to the requisite 3 creatures for the flashback cost, and then reanimate something such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necrotic%20Ooze&quot;&gt;Necrotic Ooze&lt;/a&gt; to begin comboing off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While fast, Hermit Druid combo is very much a one-trick pony. Once the other players in your meta have seen it once or twice, they will either refuse to play against it, or else they'll work to negate its biggest weakness -- the reliance on a single specific card which isn't your general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regard to the question's edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fast:&lt;/strong&gt; The only deck I have personally witnessed which might be faster than Hermit Druid was a deck created by MTGS user Gaka with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Griselbrand&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt; as the general. Gaka specifically created the deck to show that Griselbrand was broken, and the card is now banned (you might even say... &amp;quot;Griselbanned&amp;quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can't be focused on:&lt;/strong&gt; There is no such deck. If you build a powerful deck, your friends will either refuse to play against it, or focus on it. There is no way to &lt;em&gt;consistently&lt;/em&gt; combo out on T1-2, but there are a number of cheap hate cards your friends could start playing (for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Extract&quot;&gt;Extract&lt;/a&gt; and friends).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, the faster the deck is, the more focused it, by necessity, will be. This makes it more vulnerable to targeted hate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hard to stop:&lt;/strong&gt; In Hermit Druid, &amp;quot;the combo cards&amp;quot; is really just Hermit Druid and a green mana source. Once Hermit Druid activates, you have access to your entire library via your graveyard. There do exist answers to the situation (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; answers &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dread%20Return&quot;&gt;Dread Return&lt;/a&gt;, which is answered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boseiju%2C%20Who%20Shelters%20All&quot;&gt;Boseiju, Who Shelters All&lt;/a&gt;, which is answered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strip%20Mine&quot;&gt;Strip Mine&lt;/a&gt;, which is answered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crucible%20of%20Worlds&quot;&gt;Crucible of Worlds&lt;/a&gt;... and so on), but having &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; answers is difficult when the Hermit Druid player has full access to his entire library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, like a 60-card Dredge deck, Hermit Druid needs to be aware of existing graveyard hate. A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tormod%20Crypt&quot;&gt;Tormod Crypt&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield means activating Hermit Druid is probably a &lt;em&gt;bad&lt;/em&gt; idea, unless you've got &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laboratory%20Maniac&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt; in your hand and the mana to cast it, and protect it until you can draw another card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Diverse:&lt;/strong&gt; The actual win condition used in a Hermit Druid deck varies widely. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necrotic%20Ooze&quot;&gt;Necrotic Ooze&lt;/a&gt; is popular because you only need to reanimate a single target to get all kinds of activated abilities (of which there are &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; different ways to win the game), but it's not the only option. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laboratory%20Maniac&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt; is another common choice, because your library is empty, and a single instance of &amp;quot;draw a card&amp;quot; suddenly wins you the game. Loops like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Saffi%20Eriksdotter&quot;&gt;Saffi Eriksdotter&lt;/a&gt;+&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karmic%20Guide&quot;&gt;Karmic Guide&lt;/a&gt;+a sacrifice outlet also work, leading to an unbounded loop of creatures entering the battlefield (triggering things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warstorm%20Surge&quot;&gt;Warstorm Surge&lt;/a&gt;), creatures dying (fueling things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bitter%20Ordeal&quot;&gt;Bitter Ordeal&lt;/a&gt;), and uses of the sacrifice outlet (anything from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasting%20Station&quot;&gt;Blasting Station&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Altar%20of%20Dementia&quot;&gt;Altar of Dementia&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five-Color Hermit Druid is usually helmed by either &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sliver%20Queen&quot;&gt;Sliver Queen&lt;/a&gt;, as both of those generals can themselves be part of a game-winning combo in the event that your opponents stop you from using Hermit Druid. Scion of the Ur-Dragon can kill with general damage in one shot in several ways (although that only works on a single opponent at a time), as well as any combos relating to the individual dragons in the deck (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Niv-Mizzet%2C%20the%20Firemind&quot;&gt;Niv-Mizzet, the Firemind&lt;/a&gt;+&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curiosity&quot;&gt;Curiosity&lt;/a&gt;, although that requires the ability to recycle your graveyard with something such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feldon%20Cane&quot;&gt;Feldon Cane&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elixir%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;) and Sliver Queen can generate an unlimited number of sliver tokens given unlimited mana -- and if those tokens are causing you to get the mana in the first place, all the better (see, for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Echoes&quot;&gt;Mana Echoes&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T20:03:25.213" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:03:25.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14645" CreationDate="2014-02-18T17:27:17.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several cards can be left out of the solo game, as they only have an effect when there are multiple players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Queen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thief&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pirate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with this is that this could change the balance of the game due to the backs of these cards (during crisis).  A middle ground may be to remove them and replace them with the next card when they are placed face up (but disregard the new crisis now showing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the designer has mentioned (&lt;em&gt;although I can't find it anywhere&lt;/em&gt;) that the assassin should not be allowed to kill off your own character cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T17:27:17.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14556" CreationDate="2014-02-18T17:31:59.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll need to have the base set.  The expansions are just that.  No rules, no dice, only a few cards to add to the base set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T17:31:59.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13634" CreationDate="2014-02-18T17:47:27.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;@lyrion - You are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the correct way to apply all these cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A single claw roll will do one damage to the monster in Tokyo (&lt;strong&gt;1 dmg&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;then &lt;strong&gt;Mecha Blast&lt;/strong&gt; will do +2 more damage  (&lt;strong&gt;3 dmg&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Claws of Steel&lt;/strong&gt; can then be played to add 1 more damage to the monster in Tokyo (&lt;strong&gt;4 dmg&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt; will do 1 damage to all the other monsters outside of Tokyo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the card specifically states that it affects all (&lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt;) monsters, it only modifies the damage to the monster in Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were &lt;strong&gt;in Tokyo&lt;/strong&gt; and attacking, you couldn't play &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt;, but you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; play the other two cards, inflicting &lt;strong&gt;4 damage&lt;/strong&gt; on all monsters outside of Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T17:47:27.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14677" CreationDate="2014-02-18T19:24:02.720" Score="3" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario: I have a 2/2 creature and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rite%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Rite of Passage&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. Then I play 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plague%20Spitter&quot;&gt;Plague Spitter&lt;/a&gt;s.&#xA;What will happen at the beginning of my next turns upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will both Plague Spitters damage happen at the same time, or will Rite of passages triggered ability respond to each Plagues Spitter's damage in turn and thereby save the 2/2 creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6815" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T19:40:08.440" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T19:54:55.147" Title="Plague Spitter + Rite of Passage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14672" CreationDate="2014-02-18T19:39:16.737" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your creatures will live, the Plague Spitter's abilities resolve separately. At the end of your upkeep you will have 3 4/4 creatures that are marked with 2 damage each (2 plague spitters and your starting 2/2 creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T19:39:16.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14676" CreationDate="2014-02-18T19:45:42.850" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do creature effects trigger every time they move base, or just the first time they enter play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I play Invader, gain 1 VP, then play Invasion and move it to a second base, do I gain another VP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zgXxW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Invader, Minion, 3, Gain 1 VP.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-18T19:51:26.477" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T19:52:03.137" Title="Do creature effects trigger every time they move base?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14678" CreationDate="2014-02-18T19:48:41.023" Score="3" ViewCount="2549" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please clarify I am playing Survival of the Fittest properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two of the bases in play both have two creatures on them, one is strength 3 and one is strength 2. I play Survival of the Fittest and both strength 2 creatures are destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2018-07-12T14:15:57.353" Title="Survival of the Fittest" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14674" CreationDate="2014-02-18T19:52:03.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Invader grants a victory point when it's &lt;em&gt;played&lt;/em&gt;, not when it's &lt;em&gt;moved&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play:&lt;/strong&gt; You play a card&#xA;  when it’s one of the&#xA;  free cards you get in&#xA;  step 2, or any time an&#xA;  ability specifically says&#xA;  that you’re playing it. A&#xA;  card’s ability happens&#xA;  when you play it. When&#xA;  cards are moved, placed,&#xA;  or returned, they’re not&#xA;  being played, and their&#xA;  abilities don’t happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Move:&lt;/strong&gt; This lets you&#xA;  move a card from one&#xA;  location to another.&#xA;  Moving a card does&#xA;  not count as playing it.&#xA;  Minion abilities do not&#xA;  happen when you&#xA;  move a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T19:52:03.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14672" CreationDate="2014-02-18T19:54:55.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Magic, when one event triggers multiple abilities simultaneously, you put all the triggers on the stack and resolve them one by one, sequentially.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what's actually happening with the triggers is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both Plague Spitters' abilities trigger at the same time. Since you control both, you can put them on the stack in whatever order you choose. We'll say you put ability #1 on the stack first, then ability #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is: PS1, PS2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If nobody adds more stuff to the stack, we begin resolving abilities on the stack. Plague Spitter ability #2 at the top of the stack resolves and does 1 damage to each creature. You check to see if any creatures died, but they all have 2 toughness, so they don't. Also, the damage triggers Rite of Passage. You put the Rite of Passage triggers (one for each creature) on top of the stack. If there are three creatures, there are three separate triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is: PS1, RoP1, RoP2, RoP3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that the RoP triggers are on the stack, so none of your guys have +1/+1 counters yet, but they all do have one damage marked on them. If I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gut%20Shot&quot;&gt;Gut Shot&lt;/a&gt; one of your Plague Spitters right now, I could wipe your board using its death trigger.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All pass. We resolve RoP trigger #3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is: PS1, RoP1, RoP2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All pass. We resolve RoP trigger #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is: PS1, RoP1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All pass. We resolve RoP trigger #1. (Now all your creatures have a +1/+1 counter on them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is: PS1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All pass. We resolve Plague Spitter trigger #1. The Plague Spitter does 1 damage to each creature. We check if any of them died. They all have three toughness now, because of the counters, so nope. Rite of Passage triggers again (for each creature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is: RoP4, RoP5, RoP6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Continue resolving RoP triggers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll end up with a bunch of 4/4 creatures (2/2s with two +1/+1 counters each) with 2 damage marked on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T19:54:55.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14675" CreationDate="2014-02-18T20:40:36.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card text : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy the lowest-power minion(you choose in case of a tie) on each&#xA;  base with higher-power minion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Lowest minion (even yours) on each base with a higher minion (from anyone) die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4964" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T20:40:36.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14679" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45077" CreationDate="2014-02-18T22:12:05.997" Score="15" ViewCount="2287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should players play cards from the Un-Sets as they stand, or should errata be applied to remain consistent with rules and Oracle updates? In the case that the general question is too broad, opinion-based, or otherwise not a suitable question for Stack, I provide the following, much more specific, question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Desert%20Twister&quot;&gt;Desert Twister&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Northern%20Paladin&quot;&gt;Northern Paladin&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Red%20Elemental%20Blast&quot;&gt;Red Elemental Blast&lt;/a&gt;, and many other tournament legal cards received similar errata that changed the phrase &amp;quot;card in play&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Cheese%20Stands%20Alone&quot;&gt;The Cheese Stands Alone&lt;/a&gt; did not receive this errata, and so still contains the phrase &amp;quot;If you control no cards in play&amp;quot;. How should the card play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the card as if the Oracle text were &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;If you control no permanents ...&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the card as it stands. The state-based triggered ability of Cheese contains the word &amp;quot;card&amp;quot;, so rule 108.2a applies. It reads, &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;In the text of spells or abilities, the term &amp;quot;card&amp;quot; is used only to refer to a card that's not on the battlefield or on the stack&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;. This means that an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield is not a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the card as it stands, but ignore rule 108.2a and instead interpret &amp;quot;card&amp;quot; to mean something totally different, perhaps because of&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;old rules text, an unofficial ruling from a judge, an article by Wizards staff, etc., or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because &amp;quot;card in play&amp;quot; means something different than &amp;quot;card&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which situation is correct? Feel free to wander outside of my three proposed situations. I am by no means claiming that any of them are correct. The rules appear to point to the second option, but the result - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Cheese%20Stands%20Alone&quot;&gt;The Cheese Stands Alone&lt;/a&gt; can win without standing alone - seems odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T17:58:54.217" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T19:12:36.610" Title="Should &quot;standard errata&quot; be applied to silver-bordered cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-joke-cards|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14679" CreationDate="2014-02-18T23:21:10.997" Score="22" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the wonderful things about silver-bordered cards is that we can do stuff that maybe doesn't technically work but that players would have lots of fun trying to make work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;—&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/260&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the Un-sets were never designed to perfectly follow the rules of Magic. That's probably a big part of why they don't bother giving them rulings and errata in Gatherer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what should you do? It sorta depends on what your goals are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Serious casual play: play 'em like any old cards&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do people play old cards without looking up Oracle rulings all the time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, if you get familiar enough with the comp rules and the general shape of Oracle errata, you don't really need to most of the time. Sure, I might need to look up the rules for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chains%20of%20Mephistopheles&quot;&gt;Chains of Mephistopheles&lt;/a&gt; every time, but I can just look at most cards in Legends and know what they're &lt;em&gt;trying&lt;/em&gt; to do, even if the words are all backwards and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=1507&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the text is terrible inconsistent about &amp;quot;sacrifice&amp;quot; vs. &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; vs. &amp;quot;bury.&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can apply the same approach to your Unglued/Unhinged cards. What does &amp;quot;cards in play&amp;quot; mean? It's clearly old-Magic language for either &amp;quot;permanents&amp;quot; or maybe &amp;quot;non-token permanents.&amp;quot; When someone proposes a crazy nonsense reading instead, give them an angry look and tell them they're just wasting time. (Or laugh at their joke, haha — and then tell them that they're wasting time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some of the Un-cards are too crazy to really stand up to this kind of rigor. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; have to just do your best to make sense of a weird situation at times, but honestly this isn't nearly as big of a muddle as &lt;a href=&quot;http://oldschool-mtg.blogspot.com/2013/05/some-rule-anecdotes-and-slight-errata.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;trying to play Magic with old-school rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Easygoing casual play: use &amp;quot;common sense&amp;quot; and don't sweat it&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Un-sets aren't really designed for attention to detail and exacting technical play anyway. Arguably part of the &amp;quot;joy&amp;quot; of them is experiencing Magic with a newbie's sense of wonder and discovery (though this is rather personal and your mileage may &lt;em&gt;totally&lt;/em&gt; vary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, just play like you're still figuring out the game. Try to do what the cards say as best as you can. Don't stress about what the &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; rules are. Don't get technical or demand precision from players at the table. If the game state gets too complicated due to some interaction of the cards, have the group make up something that sounds halfway fair and just move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps, imagine you're twelve. (No offense to twelve-year-old &amp;quot;Spikes&amp;quot; who play tournaments and love the comp rules. In fact, mad props to twelve-year-old &amp;quot;Spikes&amp;quot; who play tournaments and love the comp rules!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend this approach if there's a significant skill gap within the group, or if you intend to play Magic while intoxicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Zany nonsense: make stuff up&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Floral%20Spuzzem&quot;&gt;Floral Spuzzem&lt;/a&gt; attacks an opponent and is not blocked, then Floral Spuzzem may choose to destroy a target artifact under that opponent's control and deal no damage.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;But... how does it decide?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people look at Unglued/Unhinged as an opportunity to &lt;em&gt;joke about&lt;/em&gt; playing Magic rather than play Magic per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's what your group is doing with their silver-bordered cards, then all sense of consistency goes out the window (with the exception of appeal to precedent, maybe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point nothing an outside authority says about the rules is meaningful at all. So just make up your own interpretation and accept that you're playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mornington_Crescent_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mornington Crescent&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T17:13:20.913" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T17:13:20.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14679" CreationDate="2014-02-18T23:30:45.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oracle text isn't updated normally for Un-cards, since they are not legal in any format. Heck, the reason they did not reprint &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Cheese%20Stands%20Alone&quot;&gt;The Cheese Stands Alone&lt;/a&gt; was due to a conflict of interest between &amp;quot;Any reprint can be played&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Only white and black cards can be played&amp;quot;. Thus we got &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Barren%20Glory&quot;&gt;Barren Glory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the major points about the Un-sets was they weren't supposed to be rules perfect, since they wanted to focus on the humor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would play any card as you describe in (1). Effectively &amp;quot;if this were templated today, how would it work?&amp;quot; as an example of a card that could be updated: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Charm%20School&quot;&gt;Charm School&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant Player&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When Charm School comes into play, choose a color and balance Charm School on your head.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Prevent all damage to you of the chosen color.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If Charm School falls off your head, sacrifice Charm School.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more recent templating (give or take).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantment - Aura&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Enchant you&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When Charm School enters the battlefield, choose a color and balance Charm School on your head.&#xA;Prevent all damage to you of the chosen color.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;When Charm School falls off your head, sacrifice Charm School.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I can't find an example of an aura that could only target you, so guessed as to how it would be templated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2014-02-18T23:30:45.240" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14679" CreationDate="2014-02-19T03:17:39.643" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Officially, Un-cards don't exist. In fact, many cards are in the Un-sets specifically because the rules team couldn't figure out how to make them work within the official rules (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStaying%20Power%5d&quot;&gt;Staying Power&lt;/a&gt; is such an example. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRocket-Powered%20Turbo%20Slug%5d&quot;&gt;Rocket-Powered Turbo Slug&lt;/a&gt; was another, although the Future Sight pacts captured the spirit pretty well). Randy Buehler even went on the record saying that he didn't know the ramifications of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bR%5d%2b%5bD%27s%5d%2b%5bSecret%5d%2b%5bLair%5d&quot;&gt;R&amp;amp;D&amp;#39;s Secret Lair&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the specific case of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThe%20Cheese%20Stands%20Alone%5d&quot;&gt;The Cheese Stands Alone&lt;/a&gt;, the only reason it wasn't reprinted in Eighth Edition was because having a tournament-legal Unglued printing would have caused rules problems, so instead Future Sight ended up with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBarren%20Glory%5d&quot;&gt;Barren Glory&lt;/a&gt;. So a reasonable casual rule would be to say that The Cheese Stands Alone is functionally Barren Glory, if someone wants to split hairs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2020-10-16T19:12:36.610" LastActivityDate="2020-10-16T19:12:36.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-19T04:29:05.003" Score="2" ViewCount="2320" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you put down 2 melds of the same card? For instance, a friend accidentally started 2 piles of 5's. Should they have been combined?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6928" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T14:06:03.137" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T21:44:40.227" Title="Multiple melds for the same card" Tags="|hand-and-foot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:07:14.597" Score="1" ViewCount="26561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a Counter Target Spell on enchantments? Enchantments are considered spells right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6932" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T17:46:43.387" Title="Can I use a &quot;Counter Target Spell&quot; on Enchantments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14684" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:11:26.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is being cast, yes. If it is one the field already, no. Pretty much everything is a spell before it becomes a permanent. When you cast an enchantment, it is put on the stack as an enchantment spell. When it resolves, it becomes an enchantment permanent on the field. Same with Creatures. The only type of card that can't be a spell is &quot;land&quot;. Also of note is that cards are only spells when they are cast. If they are simply put onto the field, without being cast, they are never spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastEditorUserId="6934" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T20:30:01.920" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T20:30:01.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14684" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:23:37.797" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spells are anything that you cast from your hand and add to the stack. Lands and abilities are not spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell is a card on the stack. As the first step of being cast (see&#xA;  rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells&quot;), the card becomes a spell and is moved to&#xA;  the top of the stack from the zone it was in, which is usually its&#xA;  owner's hand. (See rule 405, &quot;Stack.&quot;) A spell remains on the stack as&#xA;  a spell until it resolves (see rule 608, &quot;Resolving Spells and&#xA;  Abilities&quot;), &lt;strong&gt;is countered (see rule 701.5)&lt;/strong&gt;, or otherwise leaves the&#xA;  stack. For more information, see section 6, &quot;Spells, Abilities, and&#xA;  Effects.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can counter an enchantment as long as it is on the stack (not resolved).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands are not spells and are not put on the stack, so they cannot be countered. Abilities however &lt;strong&gt;are&lt;/strong&gt; put on the stack, but they can only be countered by spells which say they can counter abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T13:23:37.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14577" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:32:17.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm baffled this question has had a wrong answer with such a score for such a long time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can't.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll just quote the other answer and highlight the important part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Can I use foreign language cards in my Deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use foreign-language copies of legal-for-play cards &lt;strong&gt;printed for the TCG market&lt;/strong&gt;, as long as you can show an official translation of the card, kept outside of your Deck and Deck box, when asked to do so by an opponent or tournament official.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Japanese (and generally Asian) market is called &amp;quot;OCG&amp;quot; (Official Card Game) and is separate from the TCG market mentioned in this quote. This is mainly due to the card backs, which are different and can thus be distinguished from TCG card backs. It also has marketing and legal reasons, though (this censorship has a reason, after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up: &lt;strong&gt;Asian cards including Asian-English cards are not allowed for use on official tournaments outside of the (Asian) OCG territory.&lt;/strong&gt; Keeping a legal copy outside of your Deck doesn't help. If it has the wrong card back, you can't play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:24:38.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13092" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:41:44.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Snipe Hunter is your guy. He can discard as many cards from your hand as you like to target any card on the field. Then you roll a die and if it's 2, 3, 4 or 5, the card is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good once-per-turn option is Scrap Dragon. He allows you to target one card on each side of the field which then get destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spell and Trap wise, there's Raigeki Break, Phoenix Wing Wind Blast and Dark Core. There might be more of them, see my advice below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, there are mainly only specific cards which won't work with Hyperion, such as Exiled Force or Chiron the Mage. That kind of card isn't that rare.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You might want to look for Cards that destroy cards on the field on the wikia. Most of them have a drawback, which is often discarding or Tributing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T13:41:44.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9755" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:51:29.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;DevPro is also really good. It's actually better since it emulates the rules for you. Can't link unfortunately, but it should be fairly easy to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T13:51:29.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14579" CreationDate="2014-02-19T13:59:06.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no such thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best you might get is random opponents via Internet. Or outdated programs with a programmend AI. But if you want to stay up to date, there is no other option than playing actual opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to go for random opponents, Dueling Network and DevPro are the most well-known online sites that offer playing Yu-gi-Oh!, DevPro being somewhat better due to a Rules Engine (Dueling Network is basically a virtual playing table like YVD) taking care of rules stuff for you. Seeing as they can do that, it might be realistic to find an AI on there someday, but it won't come as an offline version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T13:59:06.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14684" CreationDate="2014-02-19T14:05:38.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear what you're asking about.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No, if you really do mean Enchantments.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Yes, if you mean Enchantment cards being cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spell is a card or copy of a card on the stack is a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1a A copy of a spell is also a spell, [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of the card is of no consequence. If there's an Enchantment card on the stack (e.g. because it's currently being cast), it's a spell, it can be targeted as a spell, and it can be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you asked about &amp;quot;Enchantments&amp;quot;. I'm not sure if you realize that &amp;quot;Enchantments&amp;quot; refers to &amp;quot;Enchantments cards or tokens on the battlefield&amp;quot;. This is also what many people are asking about when they ask about countering Enchantments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards (or tokens) on the battlefield aren't on the stack, so they aren't spells. They are permanents, and you would require &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; (for example) to get rid of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T15:48:32.907" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T15:48:32.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12512" CreationDate="2014-02-19T14:18:14.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding to user1873's answer, what you have to look at is the &lt;strong&gt;scope of the effect&lt;/strong&gt; as well as the &lt;strong&gt;effect type&lt;/strong&gt; of the Monster in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless an effect states so specifically or implies so, &lt;em&gt;it does not work unless the Monster is face-up on the field&lt;/em&gt;. An example for stating so specifically is &quot;When this Card leaves the field, ...&quot;. An example for implying so is &quot;... Special Summon this Card ...&quot; (a Card cannot be Special Summoned if it is on the field already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the specific case of Continous effects (like &lt;em&gt;Banisher of the Radiance&lt;/em&gt;), these stop working as soon as the Card on the Field is &lt;strong&gt;destroyed&lt;/strong&gt; (which happens just slightly before it's sent to the Graveyard from the rules' point of vew). This means that unless it implies so (&lt;em&gt;Dark Magician of Chaos&lt;/em&gt; is an example of this, &lt;em&gt;Battle Fader&lt;/em&gt; is another), a Monster's Continous effect &lt;em&gt;that affects Cards leaving (or having left) the Field&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;never applies to itself&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example effect you provided would fall into the group &quot;&lt;em&gt;Trigger Effects&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. Those follow the same general rule, they have to specifically state so or imply so in order to work when the Monster is not face-up on the Field. Your example doesn't specifically state so and also doesn't imply so, which means &lt;strong&gt;it will stop working&lt;/strong&gt; as soon as the Monster itself leaves the Field. This also means that it &lt;em&gt;won't affect itself and only work on other Monsters&lt;/em&gt; which leave the Field while the Monster with this effect is still face-up on the Field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T14:18:14.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14679" CreationDate="2014-02-19T14:19:49.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should players play cards from the Un-Sets as they stand, or should errata be applied to remain consistent with rules and Oracle updates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should do whatever you please. These are prank sets that can only be played with friends. Anyone telling you and your friends how to play with cards that aren't legal for play is being pretentious. And they're wrong! How can there be a right way to play an illegal card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you meant to ask what works best, I recommend on agreeing on what an updated wording of the card would be. e.g. The Cheese Stands Alone would probably have been updated to affect tokens like most (but not all) similar cards. Of course, if you want to change the a card's text, it works best if you do that before the game starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I don't agree with your reading of 108.2a. It doesn't say that permanents aren't card; it simply states that abilities won't refer to them as cards. Even so, some abilities (and rules) still use the word &quot;card&quot; to refer to them as required. Sorry, I can't seem to remember an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-02-19T16:29:45.733" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T16:29:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10843" CreationDate="2014-02-19T16:13:12.920" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As strange as it sometimes comes through, Yu-Gi-Oh! Cards are commonly being &lt;strong&gt;censored for the western market&lt;/strong&gt;, not only visually, but also in text. One prominent example is the renaming of &quot;&lt;em&gt;Magic Cards&lt;/em&gt;&quot; to &quot;&lt;em&gt;Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt;&quot; shortly after the release of the third set &quot;Magic Ruler&quot;, which was released as &quot;Spell Ruler&quot; in Europe. This renaming is probably due to &lt;em&gt;Wizards of the Coast&lt;/em&gt; complaining about the similarity to their own game's name (&quot;&lt;em&gt;Magic the Gathering&lt;/em&gt;&quot;) and possibly even threatening legal action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, Konami was very strict in removing &lt;strong&gt;sexual, cultural, religious and political references&lt;/strong&gt; as much as possible, but also several cases of &lt;strong&gt;copyright driven&lt;/strong&gt; censoring (like the &lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; thing mentioned above). Examples include &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Premature Burial&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Injection Fairy Lily&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;The Cheerful Coffin&lt;/em&gt; (the originals had cross symbols in their pictures, religious reference),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sangan&lt;/em&gt; (who was originally called &quot;Critter&quot;, which was too close to the unrelated &quot;Critters&quot; franchise/brand),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tragedy&lt;/em&gt; (the original showed a Guillotine, which refers to European and notably French history as a symbol of the cruelty during the French Revolution) as well as&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;countless girlish characters whose clothes and bodily features were &quot;adjusted&quot; (most well-known example for this is &lt;em&gt;Dark Magician Girl&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many, many more examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lord of Dragons&lt;/em&gt; doesn't seem to be offensive, so it's either a copyright thing (there are several &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dragon_Lord_%28disambiguation%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Dragon Lord&quot; brands&lt;/a&gt; in gaming and entertainment) or one of the few cases where the name was already abbreviated in the OCG for style reasons. @Discord's guess is actually not that far off, avoiding the reference to the &lt;em&gt;Dragon-type&lt;/em&gt; might actually have been a reason so as not to confuse the children this game was targeted at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Red-Eyes B. Dragon&lt;/em&gt; is interestingly the only one (well, the only family) where they did it by abbreviating, but the word &lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; was entirely stripped from Yu-Gi-Oh!. I have no idea why they did this, but up to this day, &lt;em&gt;nearly every single instance of the word &lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; has been categorically censored. &lt;em&gt;Dark Magician&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Dark Hole, Dark Magician Girl, Dark Magician of Chaos&lt;/em&gt; and many more all had the &lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; instead of the &lt;strong&gt;Dark&lt;/strong&gt; when they were first released in Japan. Some of Red-Eyes' cousins share the transition to &quot;Dark&quot; (&lt;em&gt;Red-Eyes Darkness (Metal) Dragon&lt;/em&gt;), some don't (&lt;em&gt;Red-Eyes B. Chick&lt;/em&gt;). As far as I know, the only exceptions to the &lt;strong&gt;Black&lt;/strong&gt; censorship are all objects without soul (such as &lt;em&gt;Pitch-Black Power Stone&lt;/em&gt;), which supports the theory that this censorship is intended to avoid references to skin colour (as pointed out by @SQB).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;The A. Forces&lt;/em&gt;, as has been noted by @ire_and_curses, is a reference to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allied_forces&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Allied Forces&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which is a term used to describe Germany's enemies during &lt;strong&gt;World War II&lt;/strong&gt; (specifically, &lt;em&gt;the USA, the UK, France and Russia&lt;/em&gt;), who ended up winning the war and dividing Germany, leading to a &lt;em&gt;long history of cultural, economical and political tension&lt;/em&gt; known as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cold_war&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cold War&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. The term has also been used in other military contexts, but always in conjunction with war.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T10:04:40.510" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T10:04:40.510" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9624" CreationDate="2014-02-19T16:36:18.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is entirely dependant on the metagame you're playing in. And also on the current format (that is, Forbidden and Limited List).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if your metagame highly favors decks that destroy many monsters by effects, even face-down ones, &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; is not a good idea because it will often be destroyed before even getting the chance to flip for its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your metagame favors fast swarming decks that can do insane amounts of damage in a single turn, &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; is a bad idea because it will often take the spot of a card that might have saved you, while he only lay there and stopped one attack, which wasn't enough to save you from losing.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you metagame favors many Set Cards or decks that play out their hands almost every turn, &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; is a double-edged Card because on the one hand, it can really help you in getting a new hand after playing everything down, but on the other hand, it can help your opponent even more if they just played out &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; entire hand and get a fresh 5 Cards essentially for free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your metagame favors slow setup decks that collect combos or do little for several turns, &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; is generally a good idea because it will have disruptive power and might just survive into your turn so you can play down your entire hand and Flip Summon it to get the most out of its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your metagame is full of &lt;em&gt;Dark World&lt;/em&gt; decks, &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; is a terrible idea. Read any &lt;em&gt;Dark World&lt;/em&gt; Monster and you will know why.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; is one of those general Cards that are only as good as the metagame they're in and depend much more on those circumstances than on the deck you're playing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Watch what decks others are playing and how typical turns play out, then think about the impact a Set &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; would have. If you do that for many different (but common) situations, you will get a very good feeling of how well &lt;em&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/em&gt; fits into your metagame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T16:36:18.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9384" CreationDate="2014-02-19T19:54:10.320" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very simple. All board games are know to have rules attached to them. Many games are complex, and the only way to sift through complex rules are to read through these rules and play-test. If something is inconclusive, most people I know, including myself, search online. If there is no plan for a different version, it would behoove you to create a forum, or to search sites like these to answer any questions out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People playing complex games for the first time are simply not going to get it right on the first try. It is their own responsibility to review the rules after. Even those of us that have been playing for a while go back and realize we misinterpreted the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line: just be as clear as you can. There is going to be misinterpretation no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6939" LastEditorUserId="6939" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T13:53:16.960" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T13:53:16.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14683" CreationDate="2014-02-19T21:44:40.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Problem #1 - No clear answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a wide variety of variations on Hand and Foot. The versions I've played with people who &amp;quot;know the game&amp;quot; have always allowed a clean and a dirty of the same rank, and never allowed wild canastas. (The two variations I've learned both use the term Canasta for a completed meld; some versions of the written rules use the term books.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For clarity - some terms:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Clean Canasta&lt;/strong&gt;: No wild cards, 7 cards (or more)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Dirty Canasta&lt;/strong&gt;: some wild cards, 7 cards (or more)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Wild Canasta&lt;/strong&gt;: 7 Wild Cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Extending&lt;/strong&gt; aka &lt;strong&gt;Burying&lt;/strong&gt;: adding cards to a completed canasta&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Clean/Dirty/Wild Meld&lt;/strong&gt;: a group of cards that will become a canasta of the same type when built upon further&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Build&lt;/strong&gt;: to add cards to a meld in order to make it a canasta.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Book&lt;/strong&gt;: synonym for canasta, also, to collect the completed canasta into a smaller pile, &amp;quot;closing&amp;quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/handfoot.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pagat.com&lt;/a&gt;, however, says only one meld of a given rank per patnership, and allows wild canastas, and extending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gocampingamerica.com/blog/learn-how-to-play-the-card-game-hand-and-foot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gocampingamerica.com&lt;/a&gt; makes no restriction either way on melds, and shows no scoring for wild canastas, and disallows extending a canasta, but allows larger than 7 cards melded before booking the canasta. &lt;em&gt;It also notes the lack of standardization in Hand and Foot Rules&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummy-games.com/rules/hand-and-foot-canasta.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rummy-games.com&lt;/a&gt; does not allow multiple melds of the same rank, but allows wild canastas, and not extending.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The versions I learned both allow a second meld (see below), extending, and disallow wild canastas. They differ on shuffling protocol, burying of wild cards and wilds per dirty meld. (One allows 3 wilds in a dirty meld, and burying wilds; the other requires a meld to always have more naturals than wilds.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In the Versions I learned&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can have a second meld of a given rank, provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first one is dirty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you need a clean canasta in order to go out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you have your partner's explicit verbal permission to make the new meld.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, this happens right after someone goes to their foot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In versions with no extending and no oversize canastas&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can close a canasta and immediately start a new meld of the same rank (provided you have the 4+ cards of specific ranks to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In your situation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactically, unless you needed the clean canasta, or the extant needs a single card to complete, they should have melded those 5's into the extant 5's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T21:44:40.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3322" CreationDate="2014-02-19T22:11:27.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hammurabi is a double edged sword. It gives you one extra CA which helps a lot in the early game. But you desperately need that second MA he took from you. With only one MA it is really hard to get a decent age I tactic card, which are Medieval army or Phalanx. The only way to get the second MA is warfare, so you need to take it as soon as it is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you have the warfare it is a big help also in age II where the most powerful tactics are. After Hammurabi dies you have 3 MA and can draw full set of military cards, which increases your chance to find your precious napoleonic army or classic army. Also Mobile artillery is really good because it requires only 2 units, but it doesn't give much bonus if you manage to get Napoleon as your leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general strategy is to first upgrade science then mines. There is plenty of resources available in the yellow cards but only little science. I try to collect enough science for discovering Constitutional Monarchy in early age II. Then you can pick that up even with 3 CA and discover it right away. After that your playing gets so much easier and you can choose how you are going to do your culture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to add. Strategies for two player games and four player games differ. In two player game it is essential that you manage the card row efficiently. Estimate what your opponent will take from it and calculate which cards will be in the 1 CA slot on your turn. Also in two player game taking the cards your opponent desperately needs is a must, even though you wouldn't need those card at all. For example if your opponent has not picked up irrigation form Age I, by taking Selective Breeding from Age II you will practically force your opponent to take Ocean Liner for getting any new workers. And if he misses that too, well.. You have already won. (Unless he has played suitable territories into the deck and plans to colonize them and get more yellow buttons etc. but that's more advanced)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6941" LastActivityDate="2014-02-19T22:11:27.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14701" CreationDate="2014-02-20T05:33:11.280" Score="3" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just checking that I understand rule 500.8 correctly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500.8. Some effects can add phases to a turn. They do this by adding the phases directly after the specified phase. If multiple extra phases are created after the same phase, the most recently created phase will occur first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple effects add extra phases before the current ones is over, these phases will run one after the other, right? If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Medomai%20the%20Ageless&quot;&gt;Medomai the Ageless&lt;/a&gt; attacks alone while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Finest%20Hour&quot;&gt;Finest Hour&lt;/a&gt; is on the battlefield and then deals damage, I'll get two extra combat phases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I had a big brainfart, but I guess the question was answered anyway. For a more practical example with extra turns, it's safe to assume that if I connect with both Medomai and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wanderwine%20Prophets&quot;&gt;Wanderwine Prophets&lt;/a&gt; (and sacrifice a merfolk), I'll get two extra turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T19:41:24.763" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T19:41:24.763" Title="Multiple effects causing extra phases in M:tG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14700" CreationDate="2014-02-20T06:15:44.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Medomai adds turns, not phases, so the rule you quoted isn't really necessary. Assuming no blockers, here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medomai attacks on your turn. Finest Hour's abilities trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can stack Finest Hour's abilities in either order. Assuming no other actions, Medomai is now 5/5 and there is now a combat phase after the current combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medomai deals damage. Medomai's ability triggers, so you take an extra turn after this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get another combat phase. Medomai attacks again, gaining another Exalted trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Medomai deals damage. Medomai triggers and you get another turn after this one (and before the other extra turn, not that it matters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You take two consecutive turns in which Medomai can't attack. Each of those turns can get a bonus combat phase from Finest Hour if you have non-Medomai creatures to attack with.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T06:15:44.280" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14704" CreationDate="2014-02-20T07:25:47.350" Score="3" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Dominion: Cornucopia and we played our first game yesterday. Something that confused me was the &lt;em&gt;Horn of Plenty&lt;/em&gt; card which has a treasure value equal to the number of different card titles you have in play at that moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rule book I understood that if you'd first use other treasure cards to buy a card from the stock and then play Horn of Plenty(assuming you'd have more than one buy action), Horn of Plenty would take into account the treasure cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in case I'd have only one buy option, am I allowed to play Horn of Plenty together with other treasure cards and let them count towards the total of Horn of Plenty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastEditorUserId="6779" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T11:02:59.603" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T11:02:59.603" Title="Cornucopia: Can Horn of Plenty be used together with normal treasure cards?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-cornucopia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11808" CreationDate="2014-02-20T09:07:42.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Official tournaments use a set rotation system. This means that only the newest sets are legal for tournament play. Since Pokémon offers tournaments on a very casual level, this is definitely a point to consider.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What sets are currently legal changes once a year, usually around September. Any new set that is released automatically becomes legal (for higher level tournaments such as National Chamionships, there is a small delay between the street date and the date when it becomes legal for tournament play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time, the number of legal sets after a rotation occured in September is roughly 5-8. Right before the rotation (at the time the World Championships take place), it's usually 9-12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The time between 2 rotations is called a Season. All achievements, point scores and similar things connected to tournaments and leagues (&quot;Organized Play&quot;), notably the age group players are assigned, are reset at the start of each Season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Game Mechanics (rules)&lt;/em&gt;, while slightly changing with each era (see the other answer), usually stay mainly the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Strategic Mechanics&lt;/em&gt;, however, generally change a lot between eras. Sometimes, &lt;strong&gt;Basic Pokémon&lt;/strong&gt; play the most important role, sometimes &lt;strong&gt;Evolved Pokémon&lt;/strong&gt; do (right now, as of X&amp;amp;Y, Evolved Pokémon are back on the rise). Searching Pokémon out of the deck is sometimes based mainly on other &lt;strong&gt;Pokémon's abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, other times on &lt;strong&gt;Supporters&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Items&lt;/strong&gt;. Some eras have very strong Energy manipulation, others are very disruptive, still others rely on damage manipulation a lot.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some eras even use completely new mechanics which are not present in older (or newer) sets. An example for this is the &lt;em&gt;Heartgold &amp;amp; Soulsilver&lt;/em&gt; era, which introduced the &lt;em&gt;Lost Zone&lt;/em&gt;, an area nowhere on the field where cards could never return from (within one game), as well as several cards referring to this area and using it (for example, &lt;em&gt;Lost World&lt;/em&gt; allowed a player to declare himself the winner if at least 6 of the opponent's Pokémon were in the &lt;em&gt;Lost Zone&lt;/em&gt;, while &lt;em&gt;Mew&lt;/em&gt; was able to use any attacks of Pokémon in the &lt;em&gt;Lost Zone&lt;/em&gt;). This concept was never used again after &lt;em&gt;Call of Legends&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T09:07:42.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14702" CreationDate="2014-02-20T10:59:55.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Horn of plenty doesn't give you money, it lets you gain a card costing up to the number of different named cards you have in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GEDXp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Horn of Plenty&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you should always play it after your other treasures, you then gain a card from Horn of Plenty. Afterwards you then do your buys as normal. Horn of Plenty doesn't use up a buy or any coins. If you don't want to buy anything afterwards, you don't have to. Playing treasures gains you coin to spend, it doesn't obligate you to buy something with them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T10:59:55.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14706" CreationDate="2014-02-20T11:51:39.243" Score="2" ViewCount="7846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature with the regenerate ability. If I activate this ability I generate some sort of a regenerate shield according to the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.12a: The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, do I have to tap the create after I activated the ability? Or is the creature tapped after the creature would be destroyed and the regenerate shield &quot;wears off&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4546/how-does-regeneration-work-in-magic-the-gathering&quot;&gt;How does regeneration work in Magic the Gathering?&lt;/a&gt; according to this, I guess the creature get tapped when regenerate shield &quot;wears off&quot;. (I'm sorry, I don't know a better word for the shield to take effect...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:58:06.233" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T10:58:06.233" Title="Regenerate: Tap before regeneration?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14705" CreationDate="2014-02-20T12:06:50.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature is tapped when it would be destroyed (this turn). The most common example of this is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You attack with your creature (whom has a regenerate ability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The enemy blocks with a creature with the same or more power than your creature's toughness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You recognize that your creature will die if it is not regenerated, so you activate the regenerate ability BEFORE that lethal damage is dealt, creating the &amp;quot;Regeneration Shield&amp;quot; that will last until the creature is destroyed, or the turn ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is exchanged. Your creature now has more marked damage than its toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediately after, state based actions are checked and performed. Creatures with more marked damage than their toughness are destroyed. Since your creature has an active regenerate shield, when your creature would be destroyed, the replacement effect from regeneration kicks in. Instead, you tap it (if it is not already tapped), remove it from combat (if it is in combat) and remove all marked damage from it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 3 elements of regeneration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tapping the regenerated creature - this tends to be relevant only to creatures with Vigilance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing the creature from combat - If a regeneration shield is being used during combat but before combat damage, such as to prevent a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; killing the creature, the creature is removed from combat and will no longer deal or receive combat damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing all marked damage from the creature - When a creature gets damaged, that damage is &amp;quot;remembered&amp;quot;, but only until the end of that turn. If at any point during a turn the damage exceeds a creature's toughness, that creature gets destroyed the next time state based actions are checked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6934" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T14:12:09.467" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T14:12:09.467" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13634" CreationDate="2014-02-20T12:31:55.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If not specifically stated as with &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt;, the term &lt;strong&gt;deal X damage&lt;/strong&gt; always translates to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deal X damage to all target monsters and each monster that has taken damage from you this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're in Tokyo, this means your target is all monsters outside of it. If you are attacking Tokyo, your target is all monster inside of Tokyo (Bay included). In case you have dealt damage to monsters that are not your target, they will also take extra damage from these modifiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And vice versa, the translation of &quot;you dealt X or more damage&quot; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All of the monsters that you targeted have taken X or more damage originating from your number of rolled claws, damage from cards and damage from power-ups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you're in Tokyo, you need to have at least dealt X damage to all monsters outside of Tokyo. This can be important because there are cards that affect only your neighbours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the total damage is counted after each effect in your example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You roll a single &lt;strong&gt;claw&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total DMG: 1&lt;/strong&gt;: Only the monsters in Tokyo are affected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total DMG: 1&lt;/strong&gt;: because the only monsters affected by &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt; are the ones outside of Tokyo, hence not your target&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use &lt;strong&gt;Mecha Blast&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total DMG: 3&lt;/strong&gt;: At this point you've already attacked all other monsters, so all other monsters take extra damage. In case you wouldn't have played &lt;strong&gt;Breath of Doom&lt;/strong&gt;, only the monster(s) in Tokyo would have taken 2 damage!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Claws of Steel&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Total DMG: 4&lt;/strong&gt;: The same reasoning as in the previous step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastEditorUserId="6779" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T12:38:47.710" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T12:38:47.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2014-02-20T14:25:57.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize I'm a year and change too late, but for anyone who stumbles across this post, just run a few games with the following list and you'll get it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dream%20Halls&quot;&gt;Dream Halls&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Over%20Matter&quot;&gt;Mind Over Matter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grim%20Monolith&quot;&gt;Grim Monolith&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thran%20Dynamo&quot;&gt;Thran Dynamo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voltaic%20Key&quot;&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Petal&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windfall&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turnabout&quot;&gt;Turnabout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tolarian%20Academy&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Jar&quot;&gt;Memory Jar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Spiral&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stroke%20of%20Genius&quot;&gt;Stroke of Genius&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your sideboard would essentially be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Colossus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Masticore&quot;&gt;Masticore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Processor&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Processor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Morphling&quot;&gt;Morphling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As alternate win conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quash&quot;&gt;Quash&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismiss&quot;&gt;Dismiss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defense%20Grid&quot;&gt;Defense Grid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Stroke mirror and the counters of any Counter-Phoenix or Counter-Slivers or Counter-Troll or Counter-whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hibernation&quot;&gt;Hibernation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evacuation&quot;&gt;Evacuation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Gaea's Cradle decks. Nobody else had a chance of racing you, so nobody else deserved sideboard slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the main deck, there were, of course, variations. Maindeck Masticores and shaving numbers on Thran Dynamo and the enchantments to include Evacuation or Counterspell was common, but generally a bad idea. With a deck like this, you should be all-in. I experimented with a list that played Skyshroud Forest for Crop Rotation. If you didn't find Mind Over Matter yet, you could sacrifice an Academy to go get another Academy. I was super pissed when they banned Memory Jar because I had just spent all my money on a pre-order playset at age 10 as soon as the card was spoiled in Scrye or The Duelist or whatever magazine. Then they proceeded to ban the whole deck and all the trading and buying I had done for the past year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6946" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T18:39:53.323" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T18:39:53.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14710" CreationDate="2014-02-20T20:00:34.323" Score="5" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146740&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheel of Sun and Moon&lt;/a&gt; is destroyed &amp;ndash; for instance by a disenchant &amp;ndash; does it go into the graveyard, or at the bottom of your library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T11:10:23.750" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T11:10:23.750" Title="Can Wheel of Sun and Moon go into graveyard from play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14709" CreationDate="2014-02-20T20:38:13.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you'd often put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wheel%20of%20Sun%20and%20Moon&quot;&gt;Wheel of Sun and Moon&lt;/a&gt; on your opponent, in which case there's nothing to worry about. It's only affecting cards that'd be put into &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; graveyard, and when it's destroyed it goes to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more likely similar example is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rest%20in%20Peace&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt;, which says &amp;quot;If a card or token would be put into a graveyard from anywhere, exile it instead.&amp;quot; The Gatherer rulings mention exactly this scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Rest in Peace is destroyed by a spell, Rest in Peace will be exiled and then the spell will be put into its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, Wheel of Sun and Moon behaves in the same way.  If for some reason you use it on yourself, and then destroy it, it will go to the bottom of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wheel of Sun and Moon creates a replacement effect, which applies as long as it's on the battlefield. When it would be destroyed (i.e. moved to the graveyard) it is still on the battlefield, so the replacement effect changes that to putting it on the bottom of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only once it's left the battlefield that the replacement effect goes away, but by that time the effect has already been applied. Note that this means that, if you destroyed it with Disenchant, the Disenchant &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; go to your graveyard, because when you finish resolving the spell and move it from the stack to your graveyard, Wheel of Sun and Moon is now gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T04:11:44.880" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T04:11:44.880" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14712" CreationDate="2014-02-20T20:50:43.110" Score="4" ViewCount="1261" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Painter's Servant&lt;/a&gt; makes all cards the color of your choice. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50527&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt; makes all cards colorless. What happens if they're both in play at the same time? Does the most recently played one take precedent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T21:41:01.833" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T21:41:01.833" Title="Who wins? Painter's Servant or Mycosynth Lattice?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14711" CreationDate="2014-02-20T21:03:57.290" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most recently played one takes precidence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulings on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146022&quot;&gt;painter's servent&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5/1/2008  While Painter's Servant is on the&#xA;  battlefield, an effect that changes an object's colors will overwrite&#xA;  Painter's Servant's effect. For example, casting Cerulean Wisps on a&#xA;  creature will turn it blue, regardless of the color chosen for&#xA;  Painter's Servant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5/1/2008   If something affected by&#xA;  Painter's Servant is normally colorless, it will simply be the new&#xA;  color. It won't be both the new color and colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general continuous effects are applied in time stamp order (rule 613. Interaction of Continuous Effects). More info here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1030&quot;&gt;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/1030&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-02-20T21:21:36.713" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T21:21:36.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2014-02-20T23:31:21.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Diluting your hand has been mentioned, but I would like to add its sister vice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not paying attention to the rate at which you can move through your deck.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or put differently&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not making sure that your next pass through your deck will only take a few turns, particularly during early and midgame play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing to do this can make it nearly impossible to really adjust to the different phases of the game. What those phases are depends on your strategy for the setup, but you almost always have stages you move your deck through. If you build a giant deck with multiple buys that takes 10 turns to get through, making such transitions can become almost impossible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing to do this also slows the rate at which new cards actually provide additional advantage to you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are acquiring cards rapidly, make sure you are also acquiring cards that move you through your deck rapidly as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="800" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T07:50:35.470" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T07:50:35.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2014-02-20T23:48:44.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem is that people think of copper as representing &quot;more money&quot;. Instead it represents &quot;one of my five cards will only be $1 more frequently than before&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might still have made it OK, except most cards, in fact, practically all of them, are of more value to you than $1. So you are ensuring you get LESS ACTUAL VALUE in your hand on average when you buy a copper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is also why people will turn down buying a card at all even with plenty to spend. It may not combine well, or it may dilute, the typical hand of cards they are getting from their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastActivityDate="2014-02-20T23:48:44.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2092" CreationDate="2014-02-21T00:05:39.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is what the rulebook says for choosing randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are two primary effects of these cards and honestly I think the bigger issue is which effect matters more for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Platinum and Colony extend the depth of strategy you can put into a build up. They tend to make for longer games, but games in which you could take things further. This is a popular enough option that Androminion on Android has always including these as one of its settings. Personally, I really like this effect and we usually include them in any setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand there are various cards in Dominion that seem to have been written on the tacit assumption that Gold is your final treasure goal. Sure, they can be used regardless, but they are just less likely to be bought when platinum is in play. If that is something you want to avoid, then leave them out. (Other cards, like Mine, become more powerful, but not overwhelmingly so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T00:05:39.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14718" CreationDate="2014-02-21T02:32:18.757" Score="3" ViewCount="1266" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I love about M:tG is the fact that even after 10+ years of playing you always come up against new situations. This one stumped me earlier tonight though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've gone up against &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt; a few times over the years, but earlier I had mind controlled the Leyline's owners creature, then sacrificed it for an ability, pretty standard fare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He immediately swiped back the card putting it into his graveyard and stated that I don't actually get any benefit for the sacrifice and definitely don't get to exile his creature from the Leyline's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said he was wrong based on my understanding of graveyard triggers. I thought that, even though I don't own the permanent, it still triggers graveyard entry, even if it essentially can't exist in my graveyard and goes to the owners. For example sacrificing a token still counts as a creature dying and entering a graveyard, even though they cease to exist after triggering entering the graveyard. So I thought his creature would exile even though he was the owner, I was the controller and anything that goes to my graveyard exiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was late and we agreed that he was right to move game on, but ironically the 2 judges in our group had gone by then and I think he just wanted to keep the card in his graveyard so he could recur it. So was I wrong to challenge him? Just having and playing a card doesn't mean you know how it plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6846" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T11:50:51.470" LastActivityDate="2020-09-15T12:05:43.843" Title="Leyline of the Void and exiling stolen permanents" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14716" CreationDate="2014-02-21T03:29:33.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: your friend is right about putting it in his graveyard, but wrong about you getting no benefit from the sac.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leyline of the Void's text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a card would be put into an opponent's graveyard from anywhere, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a card tries to go into anyone's graveyard &lt;em&gt;except his&lt;/em&gt;, it would be exiled instead. When the creature dies, it attempts to go to its owner's graveyard. It never even tries to go to your graveyard, so he's right that he gets to keep it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, he's wrong about you not getting a benefit from the sac for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you played an ability with &quot;sacrifice a creature&quot; as a cost, it doesn't matter if the creature is prevented from entering a graveyard somehow; you still paid the cost. This also applies to any effect that triggers upon a sacrifice (although cards that specifically care about creatures &lt;em&gt;dying&lt;/em&gt; still care if the creature makes it to the gravyeard)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Going to someone else's graveyard from the battlefield still counts as dying.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you controlled the Leyline instead of him (so that the creature would be exiled), the second reason would not apply, but the first still would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens work a bit differently. The reason tokens can get death triggers even though they don't stay in a graveyard is because they are removed from the game in an entirely different way. Tokens have the following property:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A token in any zone except the battlefield ceases to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So tokens actually do go to the graveyard, and then vanish next time state-based effects are checked. It's not a replacement effect, so it doesn't keep them from actually dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(NOTE: I originally misread it to mean the asker controlled Leyline so my original answer was wrong)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T05:18:25.613" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T05:18:25.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14716" CreationDate="2014-02-21T04:49:04.680" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;He's right. It goes directly to his graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to be clear, he controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card would be put into an opponent's graveyard from anywhere, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You control one of his creature, which you somehow sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108.3. The owner of a card in the game is the player who started the game with it in his or her deck. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of sacrificing the creature, you place it in his graveyard. The Leyline's replacement effect does not apply since the creature enters his graveyard (being the creature's owner), not the graveyard of one of his opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for whether you benefit from the sacrifice, the answer isn't clear, since it's not clear what you mean by that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If sacrifice is part of the cost of activating an ability: The ability resolves as normal, no matter where the creature ends up. As the person who activated the ability, you control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the creature has an ability that triggers on leaving the battlefield, it would trigger with you as the controller of the ability. (LTB abilities look at the state of the game before the event happen.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If another one of your permanents has an ability that triggers whenever you sacrifice a creature, it triggers no matter where the creature ends up. The sacrifice action still take places even if the effect of sacrifice is modified by a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If another one of your permanents has an ability that triggers whenever a creature enters your graveyard, it will not trigger since the creature moved from the battlefield to his graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the creature has an ability that triggers when it enters a graveyard, it will trigger with your opponent as the controller since it went to his graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-21T05:28:41.190" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T05:28:41.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14720" CreationDate="2014-02-21T17:26:17.973" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;So let's say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146740&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wheel of Sun and Moon&lt;/a&gt; in play and cast a tutor that puts the card I searched for on top of my library. Let's say, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15355&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Enlightened Tutor&lt;/a&gt;. In what order do things happen in then? Do I put the Enlightened Tutor at the bottom of my library and then shuffle (at which point it probably wouldn't be at the bottom anymore) or do I shuffle and then put the Enlightened Tutor at the bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case I assume the enchantment I searched for would go on top at the very end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T14:38:47.883" Title="wheel of sun and moon and tutors" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14719" CreationDate="2014-02-21T17:48:21.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When casting an instant or sorcery, it goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce the spell and pay all costs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People can respond&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spell effect happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spell goes to graveyard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, you'd cast Enlightened Tutor, find the enchantment, shuffle your library and put then enchantment on top, and then try to put Enlightened Tutor in your graveyard. So you have your target on top of your library and Enlightened Tutor on the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-02-21T17:48:21.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14742" CreationDate="2014-02-21T18:49:17.387" Score="3" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Game of the Goose, if you land on a square with a goose, you may move the same amount of squares again. If that lands you on a square with a goose again, can you move yet again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, since squares with geese are 9 squares apart, if you're on go and throw 9, you keep going again and again until you've won. This can't happen on your first turn, since throwing &amp;#9858; + &amp;#9861; (3 + 6) takes you to square 26, while &amp;#9859; + &amp;#9860; (4 + 5) takes you all the way to square 53. But if you land on square 58 and die, you go back to the start, but then it's no longer your first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in assuming that throwing 9 &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt;, wins you the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:37:38.570" LastActivityDate="2019-04-08T22:12:07.883" Title="In the Game of the Goose, keep moving again and again if I keep landing on geese?" Tags="|game-of-the-goose|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14593" CreationDate="2014-02-21T23:06:02.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should &lt;b&gt;keep the two threes&lt;/b&gt; and rethrow the rest. Your expected score is &lt;b&gt;2.81&lt;/b&gt; (versus an expected score of 2.64 for keeping all four dice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I calculated this using a script on my phone, but the values seemed to disagree with everyone else, so I rewrote it in python.  Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ideone.com/RLAgsU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;python version&lt;/a&gt; for anyone to pick apart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes a long time to run (much longer than the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/gXuuAtE8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;optimised version&lt;/a&gt; I wrote for my phone), so &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/b9Zkiuz5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is the output&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've looked at the output then you'll notice the script's doing a lot more than answering just this question.  Rather it's calculating the best move for any set of dice showing, and with any number of throws left.  It starts from the simple case of &quot;no throws left&quot; and increments the number of throws. This allows it to search all possible sets of kept dice, and compute the highest expected score from each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Optimal play&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking the best moves given by the script I was able to find the optimal play for any given game state. After the first roll it's possible to be in one of 84 positions.  Since we're treating claws, hearts and lightning bolts (4s, 5s and 6s) all as X's, you're more likely to have thrown Xs than e.g. 2s. The 84 positions are shown below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WomLO.png&quot; alt=&quot;What should be kept after first roll&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The image has got shrunk a bit small, but if you open it in a new tab or zoom in then it's readable. Each square shows a particular roll you may have got, and highlights the dice you should keep. I've colour-coded the positions by whether you should keep 1s (red), 2s (green) or 3s (blue), some combination (yellow, cyan and magenta), or no dice (grey). The bottom of each square shows your expected score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have kept some of the dice and rerolled the rest you end up in one of the positions in the figure below. Again, this image shows which dice you should keep and what your expected score is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViR7a.png&quot; alt=&quot;What should be kept after second roll&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After rolling for the third time, you end up in one of the positions in the figure below. This time the diagram shows you the actual score, and the colours correspond to which dice are getting you points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jszBC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dice showing after the third roll, and the corresponding scores&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of how to use the images above. Imagine that for our first roll we get three 1s, two 2s and a 3. We look in the top figure and find the bit that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JGhlp.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tells us our best bet is to keep the 2s and 3s, and reroll the 1s. Our expected score is 2.15. Rerolling those three dice, we get two 1s and a claw (an X). We look at the second image from above and find the bit that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sqgX.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are told that our best strategy now is to keep the 2s and reroll the rest. Our expected score has dropped to 1.25.  Rerolling we get two more 2s, another 1, and a heart (an X). This puts us in this square from the third diagram above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPF9H.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We score 3 points for a set of four 2s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other results&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While playing around with this problem I found several other interesting results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The average expected score with three rolls left is 2.24. This drops to 1.34 if you haven't rolled any 1s, 2s or 3s in the first throw. It drops to 0.40 if you've still got nothing with one roll left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best strategy is usually to keep a single number and rethrow the rest, but occasionally you should keep more than one number (e.g. for (2,2,3,6,6,6) with 2 throws left you should keep (2,2,3)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on your first roll you get (1, 1, 1, 1, 3, 3) you should keep the 3s (expected score 2.81), but if it's your second roll you should keep the 1s (expected score 2.33).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T23:58:54.620" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T23:58:54.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14679" CreationDate="2014-02-21T23:43:54.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no authoritatively correct answer. Unglued and Unhinged cards do not have official rules.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unglued and Unhinged were created explicitly to mess with the rules. They are not tournament legal, so there is no need for there to be real rules.  I don't know of a single reference where someone from Wizards says just that. But it's clear from several things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, as you've noticed, they've never received Oracle text updates. This is not an accident. Normally, when rules change, Wizards goes and finds every affected card they possibly can and updates the Oracles text. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/255c&amp;amp;page=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's the update from Magic 2014&lt;/a&gt;. They have not somehow forgotten about Un- cards for years, they have deliberately not updated them. The lack of Oracle updates for these cards is Wizards (passively) saying, there are no updated rules for these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, when Mark Rosewater wrote some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=magic/faq/unhinged&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;rules&quot; FAQ for Unhinged&lt;/a&gt; (the closest you'll get to anything official), he said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But when the subject of the &lt;em&gt;Unhinged&lt;/em&gt; set comes up, the opposite appears to happen. When I brought up the fact that we needed to produce an &lt;em&gt;Unhinged&lt;/em&gt; FAQ(TIWDAWCC), the rules team left skid marks getting away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Wizards rules folks have not touched Unhinged, and there are no official rules. Those FAQ clarify some things for Unhinged, and there is no similar document for Unglued.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies to your specific case with The Cheese Stands Alone: there will be no authoritative answer. It's probably most reasonable to play it as if the templating were updated - &quot;card in play&quot; changed to &quot;permanent&quot; - because that's what was done to other cards, so it's most likely what Wizards &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; have done if they had updated it. But it's up to you to try to make decisions like that for each card; whatever you decide will be just as authoritative as what someone else out there has decided. Even if someone ran an Un-tournament, and had judges, and for some reason recorded their rulings, they wouldn't really be official - they'd have been working off their own knowledge same as you, without any actual rules or Oracle text to look to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt; I've discussed in chat some with the OP, and come to understand that he's not interested in ways to personally choose how to play the cards, just authoritative advice. But since there is no such advice, I feel that the other answers are actually much more helpful than simply stating what I have, so I'd encourage anyone looking for actual advice on how to play with the cards to look to any of the other answers.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T00:51:28.847" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T00:51:28.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11977" CreationDate="2014-02-22T00:01:18.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certain context for this strategy. Qin's strategy was only used for the &lt;strong&gt;major powers&lt;/strong&gt;, any of which could crush others and were ready to do so. In general, there is great distrust among great powers, who cannot be permanent allies due to conflicts of major interests. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, allying with your neighboring powers against farther powers is not a good strategy. Because first of all, maintaining interests faraway is costly; Even if you can afford it, neighboring powers would be threatened by the encirclement so that they alliance could not be genuine. Their betrayal could be deadly. Instead, working with farther powers is much easier. They have &quot;common interests&quot; (containing your neighboring powers who are more likely to threat their interests than you are) with you. Combined you are also in an advantageous strategic position. They can also be lured into an alliance by greed. The infamous example is the short alliance between Hitler and Stalin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6956" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T00:01:18.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14725" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-22T00:59:17.393" Score="2" ViewCount="31714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadowborn%20demon&quot;&gt;Shadowborn demon&lt;/a&gt;. It has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Shadowborn Demon enters the battlefield, destroy target non-Demon creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can my friend play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fall%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Fall of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt; on the target creature that would be destroyed to have it deal damage to my Shadowborn Demon, or would his creature be destroyed because of the ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6957" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T01:04:52.583" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T01:32:09.973" Title="Can my opponent respond to an &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14725" CreationDate="2014-02-22T01:24:58.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a triggered ability is placed on the stack, players can respond to it. He may indeed cast Fall of the Hammer before Shadowborn Demon's ETB resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fall of the Hammer will resolve first (having been placed on the stack last). This damages your Demon, which presumably results in its destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, Shadowborn Demons's ETB will resolve, destroying his creature. This will happen even if the Demon no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T01:32:09.973" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T01:32:09.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14725" CreationDate="2014-02-22T01:29:50.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both things happen. First, your opponent's creature will deal damage to Shadowborn Demon (thanks to Fall of the Hammer); then the Demon's ability will kill the creature — even if Fall of the Hammer already killed your demon.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Shadowborn Demon enters the battlefield, you get to choose a target for its ability. The ability then goes on the stack, just like spells do when you cast them. (Check out the MTG &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; for more information about the stack and casting spells.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the Demon's ability is on the stack, your opponent can respond to it by activating abilities or casting Instant spells, including Fall of the Hammer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now the stack looks like this (most recent thing on top; that's why it's a &amp;quot;stack&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(top)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Fall of the Hammer&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Shadowborn Demon's &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; ability&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(bottom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When nobody else has more actions (you could respond to Fall of the Hammer by casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on your Demon, for instance), we resolve what's on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the Fall of the Hammer happens first, allowing your opponent's creature to deal damage to the Shadowborn Demon. If this is enough damage to kill your Demon (for example, the opponent's creature is an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbor%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Arbor Colossus&lt;/a&gt;), you'll put the Demon into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you're done resolving Fall of the Hammer, you'll resolve the Demon's ability, destroying your opponent's creature. Even if your Demon is already dead, though, the opponent's creature will be destroyed. That's because the &amp;quot;destroy target non-demon creature&amp;quot; ability doesn't directly depend on your Demon if you've already put it on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your opponent's creature will damage your demon first (potentially killing the Demon, if it was a lot of damage), and then afterward the creature will be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T01:29:50.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14728" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14931" CreationDate="2014-02-22T09:40:16.473" Score="4" ViewCount="2052" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I was a kid (which would've been at least 15 years ago, so around 1999 or so) there was a game I used to play that I would like to find again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &quot;horror&quot; game took place in an haunted mansion or castle divided in four big rooms and multiple floors. Players can choose from different characters (and if I remember correctly, one of them was a dog) and advance through an high number of tiles by spinning a wheel. Some tiles had special effects on gameplay written on them, as &quot;stop for a turn&quot; or &quot;go to tile number ###&quot; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was not &quot;Ghost Castle&quot; and not something about Scooby-Doo (the characters where anonymous). It was built in thick paper or cardboard (everything but the wheel was made in this material), and it wasn't a box but a book which become a 3D setting when opened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was none of those listed below, because this are way to small:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which Witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Haunted House&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Haunted Mansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ghost Castle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6959" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T00:01:24.123" LastActivityDate="2017-09-23T15:09:31.397" Title="Looking for a horror boardgame I used to play back in 1999 or so" Tags="|identify-this-game|kids|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3676" CreationDate="2014-02-22T16:50:21.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things not mentioned in the other (good) answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Negative doubles help you find 4-4 major suit fits and (by bidding a major when a negative double would have been available) especially &quot;3-5&quot; major suit fits that can be impossible to find otherwise at low level competitive auctions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't throw penalties entirely out the window, as opener can balance with a double that responder can convert to penalty. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T16:50:21.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3820" CreationDate="2014-02-22T16:53:45.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double by this hand is unwise in any scoring system. Best to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that to double on an offshape hand like this requires you to check a special box (minimal offshape takeout doubles) on an ACBL card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T16:53:45.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14740" CreationDate="2014-02-22T17:04:44.833" Score="3" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the rules for alerting bids broadly similar at clubs throughout the world, or do they differ? Are bidding boxes used internationally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My most specific interest is whether clubs in Switzerland are like clubs in the US but I have asked the question more generally because it may be of use to others. Of course I will ask the local director when specific questions arise, but there is a language barrier, and the director here may not know what I am accustomed to in US clubs, so I hoped someone here could offer a comparison.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T06:26:14.130" Title="bridge club alert rules internationally" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1997" CreationDate="2014-02-22T17:32:06.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Necroing as there are several new expansions now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adds the least complexity to the game:&#xA;Base &gt; Intrigue &gt; Cornucopia &gt; Guilds &gt; Seaside &gt; Prosperity &gt; Hinterlands &gt; Alchemy &gt; Dark Ages&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completely personal preference (subjective, obvi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guilds &gt; Dark Ages &gt; Prosperity &gt; Hinterlands &gt; Seaside &gt; Alchemy &gt; Intrigue &gt; Cornucopia &gt; Base&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most experienced players like Cornucopia more than I do and Alchemy less; otherwise I think this is close to the general consensus (which of course will vary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For bang for the buck I would buy Dark Ages if you are into learning new tricks, as it is a huge expansion. I would buy Intrigue if you don't feel like learning too many new rules but just want more cards. Prosperity would be a good compromise between these two goals. My favorite is Guilds, but it is a small expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They're all good!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2014-02-22T17:32:06.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14736" CreationDate="2014-02-22T21:21:22.610" Score="3" ViewCount="940" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt;. I put down &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Angel of Despair&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent puts down &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207901&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crystalline Sliver&lt;/a&gt;. &quot;When Angel of Despair enters the battlefield, [you] destroy target permanent&quot;. Crystalline Sliver gives all slivers shroud so can I destroy slivers with Angel of Despair's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Crystalline Sliver entered the battlefield first I couldn't but if it entered the battlefield second, after Angel of Despair did, I could. But what if they enter into the field at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in this same vein, what if my opponent plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gilded Drake&lt;/a&gt;? Can my opponent target my Angel of Despair with his Gilded Drake?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-22T21:25:54.160" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T04:00:37.023" Title="Show and Tell and permanents that target other permanents" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14735" CreationDate="2014-02-22T21:36:21.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;can I destroy slivers with Angel of Despair's ability?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; doesn't matter. Triggered abilities are only placed on the stack when a player would get priority, which is only after Show and Tell has finished resolving. By that time, every player's cards have already been placed on the battlefield, so the Angel's ability is unable to target Slivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can my opponent target my Angel of Despair with his Gilded Drake?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the abilities are placed on the stack once a player would get priority (when Show and Tell finishes resolving), they are placed on the stack in APNAP order. The following happens afterwards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the Active Player, you place your triggered abilities on the stack first. You choose target for the Angel's ability at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent now gets a chance to place his triggered abilities on the stack. He chooses a target for his Drake's ability at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drake's ability resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angel's ability resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The choices is made in APNAP order, but the card are are placed on the battlefield simultaneously. (There's a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Show%20and%20Tell&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt; confirming this.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-24T04:00:37.023" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T04:00:37.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14738" CreationDate="2014-02-23T00:08:03.487" Score="3" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt; and with it play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241832&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Primeval Titan&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5837&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gilded Drake&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/14735/6542&quot;&gt;takes over&lt;/a&gt; my Primeval Titan. I assume I'm the one who gets to use the land search ability and not my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T00:30:14.687" Title="show and tell, gilded drake and primeval titan" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14737" CreationDate="2014-02-23T00:30:14.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will get to search for lands with the Titan's ability; similarly to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/14735/show-and-tell-and-permanents-that-target-other-permanents&quot;&gt;your other question&lt;/a&gt;, the key here is that both Primeval Titan and Gilded Drake have &lt;em&gt;triggered abilities&lt;/em&gt;.  Both of those triggers are put onto the stack after Show and Tell has finished resolving, and the controller of the ability is locked into place when the ability is put on the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.8. The controller of an activated ability on the stack is the player who activated it. The controller of a triggered ability on the&#xA;  stack (other than a delayed triggered ability) is the player who&#xA;  controlled the ability’s source when it triggered, or, if it had no&#xA;  controller, the player who owned the ability’s source when it&#xA;  triggered. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability,&#xA;  see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Primeval Titan's triggered ability is put onto the stack (which will generically be just before Gilded Drake's ability is put on the stack, since the active player's triggers are placed on the stack before any inactive players', and it's hard but not impossible to cast Show and Tell outside your turn), the controller of the land-search ability is locked in as the controller of the titan; at this point you still control the Titan, since Gilded Drake's ability hasn't even gone on the stack yet, much less resolved.  The fact that you don't control the Titan when the ability resolves is moot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T00:30:14.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14732" CreationDate="2014-02-23T06:26:14.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played extensively in clubs in the US and Switzerland, and occasionally in other countries. Bidding boxes are now in almost universal use. Alert rules vary by country, and are substantially different from what you are used to in the ACBL. Fortunately most are simpler than the ACBL's. The club directors I met in Switzerland spoke excellent English -- I recommend asking. Be sure to inquire about Stop Card use as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Swiss Bridge Federation (FSB) site is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.swiss-bridge.ch/&quot;&gt;http://www.swiss-bridge.ch/&lt;/a&gt; but I did not spot anything about alert rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T06:26:14.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7156" CreationDate="2014-02-23T07:03:25.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To clarify this matter, we first have to understand kui-pinfu.&#xA;Kui-pinfu happens if one wins by claiming a discard with an open hand with melds and waits to which no fu is awarded, the hand is not 20 fu but counted as a total of 30 fu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, it is similar to the rule that chitoitsu is 25 fu and not rounded up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, a pinfu is worth 1 han 20 fu + 10 fu (menzen-kafu) if ron and 2 han 20 fu if self drawn(with menzen-tsumo) while a kui-pinfu is always 30 fu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6967" LastEditorUserId="6967" LastEditDate="2014-02-23T07:20:10.337" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T07:20:10.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14721" CreationDate="2014-02-23T08:30:30.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game of goose has many variants, including different square orderings, different rules for landing on certain squares and different numbers of dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The variant you describe (two dice, geese every 9 squares) is quite common, and the rule for rolling a nine on the first turn is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the roll is a 6 and 3, move directly to field 26; if the roll is a 4 and 5, advance all the way to 53.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you could only roll a nine and land on a goose when you are on the start square, you don't have the opportunity to land on multiple geese in one go from any other square on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules quote was from this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.recoveredscience.com/gooserules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;goose page&lt;/a&gt;. Interestingly this set of rules explicitly says moving to square 26 or 53 only applies on your first go. So if you find yourself back at the start, e.g. due to the death square, or somebody landing on you on their first go, then you can throw a nine and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another site with two-dice goose rules is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamepuzzles.com/goose.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and it features an image of the game board that shows a pair of dice on squares 26 and 53. This acts as a visual reminder of the rule. This rules page does not allow a throw of nine to ever win the game from the start square, as it associates the rule with the square:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A lucky throw of 9 at the beginning of the spiral path advances a player to one of the fields with dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game of goose has been played over many hundreds of years, and plenty of variation has been introduced during this time. Consequently the important thing is to pick a set of rules everyone's happy with before you start the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T08:30:30.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2014-02-23T08:59:18.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://apps.facebook.com/phasetenapp/?fb_source=bookmark_favorites&amp;amp;ref=bookmarks&amp;amp;count=0&amp;amp;fb_bmpos=13_0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://apps.facebook.com/phasetenapp/?fb_source=bookmark_favorites&amp;amp;ref=bookmarks&amp;amp;count=0&amp;amp;fb_bmpos=13_0&lt;/a&gt; has an app of phase 10. It's pretty fun only con is you cant play it as many times as you want, you have to wait for your energy to refill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6969" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T08:59:18.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14747" CreationDate="2014-02-23T09:27:23.890" Score="5" ViewCount="3711" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this is an obvious question but I didn't see it asked before and I'm very new to Magic The Gathering. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to block sorcery spells in MTG that threaten to view my hand?  For example Thoughtseize from &quot;Theros&quot;.  For some reason I don't seem to have a good defense against that.  Can I counter it with a standard &quot;non-creature&quot; counter spell or is something different required?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastActivityDate="2023-03-21T08:04:49.067" Title="Is there a way to block MTG sorcery spells that view my hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2014-02-23T09:41:49.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At that age they will have a bit of trouble just figuring out how pieces move. It will take a few games for them to remember it. In games with kids that are too young to quickly grasp how pieces move I simply make sure that on nearly every move I have a piece available for them to take (for free), and the problem I pose to them is which piece they can take and how. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they have that clear in their mind, which may take more than one game, then it naturally transitions into things like &quot;you can take this piece, but if you do then this other piece can take yours, this other piece is guarding that one&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until movement and taking of pieces is transparent to them, they cannot really move forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T09:41:49.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14744" CreationDate="2014-02-23T10:19:26.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed you can stop it with spells that can counter spells like Counterspell or Negate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T10:19:26.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14744" CreationDate="2014-02-23T15:45:40.620" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can interact with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt; just like any other card. In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can counter it. Use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Negate&quot;&gt;Negate&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissolve&quot;&gt;Dissolve&lt;/a&gt;, et cetera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this doesn't really help that much against the first-turn Thoughtseize unless you've got access to a counterspell that doesn't cost any mana, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mental%20Misstep&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Will&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;. The closest thing you've got in Born of the Gods Standard is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swan%20Song&quot;&gt;Swan Song&lt;/a&gt; when you're on the play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the best answer to a first-turn Thoughtseize is to choose initial hands that won't be crippled by it. And, yeah, that's a rather big imposition. That's what makes the card so powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can invalidate its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughtseize says &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Target player&lt;/strong&gt; reveals his or her hand.&amp;quot; If it can't target you, it can't be cast on you. The gold standard for effects like this is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Sanctity&quot;&gt;Leyline of Sanctity&lt;/a&gt;, which is actually faster than Thoughtseize if you get it in your opening hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no such cards currently in Born of the Gods Standard. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can take your best cards out of your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens quite a lot in Legacy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Thoughtseize you.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&amp;quot;In response, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you put the cards you need most &lt;em&gt;on top of your library&lt;/em&gt;, so they're hidden from Thoughtseize but you can draw them next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no such cards currently in Born of the Gods Standard. :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughtseize is a powerful card (basically the best of its kind) and it's seldom easy to deal with. For higher-level strategy tips, I recommend starting with &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.starcitygames.com/article/26855_Thoughtseize-You.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reid Duke's excellent Thoughtseize guide&lt;/a&gt; — this'll help you understand what your opponent's going to be trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-02-23T17:05:43.467" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T17:05:43.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-23T19:14:48.993" Score="3" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a unit with a support order, supports the losing side in a battle, is it routed or can It support again in another battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6970" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T21:23:08.107" Title="Support order, when losing a battle" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14748" CreationDate="2014-02-23T21:14:15.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can support again another battle. Supporting units simply provide their strength in combat without participating in any other way. Routing only happens to retreating armies. See manual page 21 (&quot;Retreats and Routing&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-02-23T21:23:08.107" LastActivityDate="2014-02-23T21:23:08.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14763" CreationDate="2014-02-24T01:25:29.267" Score="22" ViewCount="5173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oftentimes in a big game of Settlers of Catan (4 or more players) it comes down to two or three players battling for the winning point and one or two players who have too few points to offer any realistic chance of victory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than just watch, the losing players are free to make overly generous trades to control who wins in a weird inversion of control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a natural side effect of the games? Is this just a manifestation of be nice to people on the way up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this really frustrating as more than once I've ended up losing because I've annoyed someone in a previous game. Am I just being a poor sport?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can think to avoid this style of play is to run a league setup such than even if a player isn't going to win, it's worth them trying to get an extra few more points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6975" LastEditorUserId="6975" LastEditDate="2020-04-05T00:34:35.963" LastActivityDate="2021-06-06T10:07:14.987" Title="Unsporting trades in the end-game of settlers of Catan" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2014-02-24T07:12:44.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slightlymagic.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=27&amp;amp;t=1347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is it in XML and ASCII, complete from what I gather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2098" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T13:17:29.787" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T13:17:29.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2014-02-24T07:35:51.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For people that are still searching for a program to save you set, put in trade cards and or make a wishlist. I found this awesome site that does exactly that! &lt;a href=&quot;http://deckbox.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://deckbox.org/&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;After you have listed all of your cards, you can even see the value of your set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6940" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T07:35:51.103" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14750" CreationDate="2014-02-24T15:10:27.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kingmaking is a dynamic which means the leaders of the game should be making un-even trades to the people in last place to help them along. If you help a person in last place build some additional settlements they will still be trying to win the game, rather than bored with no hope of victory in sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a rational trade when you have no chance of winning? Ending the game as soon as possible is pretty rational when you are so far behind you have no chance to come back. If you want to avoid this, don't let people fall so far behind. You can do this by trading at only marginal benefit to yourself and large benefit to them. Normally you would only swap 1:1 if its going to let you gain a VP next turn, but if someone is miles behind, you might swap 1:1 with someone just to gain a slightly better hand, or even 2:1 to avoid having 8 cards for the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T15:10:27.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14765" CreationDate="2014-02-24T15:14:06.183" Score="3" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you defeat Count Bela Magpyr, the rules says that all Magpyr figures are removed from the board. What will happen with the points in that cards? Are for the player who defeat Bela or just are removed from the game (points go for no one)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6979" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T03:48:30.283" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T07:42:03.933" Title="The Witches: A Discworld Board Game - Defeating Count Bela" Tags="|scoring|discworld-the-witches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2014-02-24T18:49:48.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this depends a lot on &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; the game is taking you so long to play.  We had been suffering from the same problem, and the main reason is because we have one player who is just an incredibly slow thinker.  He often took over 15 minutes just to make one move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, we made a lot of small changes to the game to reduce the amount of information this one player needed to process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we use fast trains (they move 12 and 16 instead of 9 and 12).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we use the fast ferry option.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we use card racks (similar to the tile racks you use in Scrabble) so that players cannot see each other's cards.  This way, Slowpoke doesn't waste time looking at anything but his own cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we used to play with a three-card &quot;clearinghouse&quot; -- that's what we called the publicly shared contracts that players could complete.  Originally, we had an optional rule that you could spend the second half of your turn trading one of your cards for one from the clearinghouse.  We dropped that rule so that Slowpoke couldn't spend time staring at the options in the clearinghouse, and replaced it with a rule where you could trade out an unwanted card for the top card of the deck, sight unseen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule change that ultimately resulted in us significantly speeding up the pace of the game was one I read about in another game forum:  &quot;defer all drawing of cards until the end of your turn.&quot;  That means when you make a delivery, you do NOT immediately replace the card;  instead, you continue operating your train, picking up loads, moving it along your track, and even making another delivery if you can.  At the end of your movement phase, you execute the second half of your turn, building track or upgrading your train.  Then and only then do you draw one or more cards to replace any completed deliveries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change has several interesting effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the down side, you can't plan your train movement, your load selection, and your building based on what new card you draw until your next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;on the plus side, the thing that takes the most time in the game is looking at one or more new cards -- and since this is now the last thing that happens on your turn, you do this during the next player's turn, not during your own turn.  The game marches on while you examine your new cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;also on the plus side:  if you draw any event cards, you reconcile them as usual.  However, if an event causes you to lose a turn, you only lose your next turn.  You don't lose &quot;the remainder of this turn&quot; in addition to your next turn.  This seems a little more fair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we implemented this rule change, we easily shaved over half an hour from our game time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6982" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T18:49:48.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14750" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:03:03.967" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;This situation is called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kingmaker_scenario&quot;&gt;The Kingmaker Scenario&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.  It is an effect that is largely seen as being undesirable in games, yet at the same time is also considered somewhat &lt;strong&gt;inevitable in games with 3 or more sides&lt;/strong&gt; in a Free-For-All situation to at least some extent.  Game designers are always trying to find ways to fight against this effect, and there are a number of ways to reduce the effect that Kingmaker has on the game when designing a game - here are a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completely eliminate a player from the game after they are behind by a certain threshold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a &quot;comeback mechanic&quot; that allows a player to fight back against the feedback loop holding them in a low position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using concealed information to make it more difficult to determine the values involved in the victory conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When dealing with a pre-made game like &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; and not with a game of your own creation, your options are limited - you can either &lt;strong&gt;create house rules&lt;/strong&gt; of some form, or simply &lt;strong&gt;accept that aspect of the game&lt;/strong&gt;.  It may be best to try and find what others have done to solve the same situation for the same game - if it is widely considered to be a problem by other players, than there may be popular and well-tested house rules that already exist.  On the other hand, if there are not, it may be a sign that regular players do not consider it to be a major factor in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-02-24T22:03:03.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14679" CreationDate="2014-02-24T22:45:40.607" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some statements from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=magic%2Ffaq%2Funhinged&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater, the Un-rules manager&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/19724473643/i-just-noticed-that-the-oracle-text-for-erase-not-the&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;why Erase (Not the Ursa's Legacy One) doesn't have new Oracle text&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Un-sets have never been updated because they are not in Oracle. Unglued still has Summon Creature for goodness sake. I have brought this problem up and I’ve been promised that it will eventually be fixed, but that it’s a low priority item so please be patient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/69926019862/why-dont-silver-bordered-cards-ever-recieve-oracle&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;why silver-bordered cards don't get Oracle text, not even trivial stuff&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It’s a matter of resources. The Un-cards aren’t used for tournament play so they are low cards on the totem pole. I hope to get them Oracle-ish text one day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/142220161003/for-the-purposes-of-delirium-how-does-it-work-in&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;For the purposes of Delirium, how does it work in Silver-Border?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Assume logical eratta on the Un-cards for card types. Entire-cray is “creature” just in another language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding from these replies is that the Un-cards would ideally be played with the Oracle updates, but that they simply have not gotten around to posting the updates, so there's no way to know for sure exactly what the Oracle text would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="5912" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T16:04:27.753" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T16:04:27.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14760" CreationDate="2014-02-25T07:42:03.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The removal of all other Magpyrs is part of the special reward for defeating the Count. Player who defeated him gets to keep his token and score the points just for him, all other are simply set aside and no one gets the points for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5542" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T07:42:03.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14986" CreationDate="2014-02-25T09:59:31.103" Score="15" ViewCount="1028" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an archaeological question :). I used to have this space exploration board game that my father bought in the USSR in the 80s. I can't remember its name and I've been trying to find it on Russian websites for several days now, but it seems to be rather obscure and rare. I remember it had a board put together from several separate cardboard pieces (not foldable as usual). There were pictures of various Soviet space probes and satellites printed around the board. The main theme, if I recall correctly, was to put your satellites around major planets. The dominant color on the board was dark blue, with pictures of planets and stars. I have already checked that it was NOT any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Большое космическое путешествие (Great cosmic voyage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Риск (Risk)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Космос (Cosmos)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;В космос (Into the cosmos)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Приключения на Луне (Adventures on the Moon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help in identifying this game will be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;I remember one more thing, although not that relevant. The player's pieces look a bit like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File%3aSpielstein_.jpg&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt;, although slightly more slender and reminiscent of a space rocket.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6989" LastEditorUserId="6989" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T08:16:46.320" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:41:24.750" Title="Soviet space exploration board game (now with pictures)" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14769" CreationDate="2014-02-25T11:27:57.607" Score="2" ViewCount="13585" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am try to figure out &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Crypt Sliver&lt;/a&gt;'s ability better. I was wondering if my opponent casts an instant to destroy target creature, during his or her turn, if I could respond by tapping a creature (perhaps the targeted creature if its untapped) to regenerate my creature before the spell is resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6990" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T13:45:15.487" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T14:18:05.283" Title="Can I tap a creature in response to an instant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14767" CreationDate="2014-02-25T12:02:47.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but only if you controlled it since the beginning of your turn or if it has haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T12:02:47.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14767" CreationDate="2014-02-25T13:57:30.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can &lt;strike&gt;tap&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;i&gt;activate the abilities of&lt;/i&gt; a permanent in response to an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will save your Sliver. To regenerate something is to give it a shield that will prevent (replace) destruction the next time it would be destroyed that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The system governing when you can cast a spell and activate abilities is called &amp;quot;priority&amp;quot;, and you will get priority at some point between when a spell is cast and when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that you can activate abilities in response to a spell. Restriction to activating the ability apply as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Equip, Loyalty abilities and any other ability that specifically mention they can only be activated &amp;quot;as a sorcery&amp;quot; cannot be activated in response to another spell or ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the tap or untap symbol is in the activation cost, the creature must have been under your control since the start of your turn (must not have summoning sickness).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must be able to pay the cost. (e.g. The creature cannot already be tapped if the ability has the tap symbol in its cost.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Crypt Sliver&lt;/a&gt; (henceforth known as &amp;quot;C&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battering%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Battering Sliver&lt;/a&gt; (some other sliver henceforth known as &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armor%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Armor Sliver&lt;/a&gt; (some other sliver henceforth known as &amp;quot;A&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say your opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hero%27s%20Downfall&quot;&gt;Hero&amp;#39;s Downfall&lt;/a&gt; targeting &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response, you can cast instant spells and activate abilities, including the &amp;quot;{T}: Regenerate target Sliver.&amp;quot; ability of any of your Slivers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you activate &amp;quot;A&amp;quot;'s ability targeting &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;. The stack now contains the ability that grants regeneration and Hero's Downfall. The ability that grants regeneration resolves first because it was added to the stack last. This gives a regeneration to &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.8. Regeneration is a destruction-replacement effect. The word “instead” doesn’t appear on the card but is implicit in the definition of regeneration. “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.” Abilities that trigger from damage being dealt still trigger even if the permanent regenerates. See rule 701.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, Hero's Downfall resolves. It would destroy &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; but for the regeneration shield. Instead, &amp;quot;B&amp;quot; is tapped, it's removed from combat, and any marked damage is cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: It would have been much better to use &amp;quot;B&amp;quot;'s &amp;quot;{T}: Regenerate target Sliver.&amp;quot; ability targeting itself since it will end up tapped anyway, but you might not be able to if it's already tapped or if it has summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T14:18:05.283" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T14:18:05.283" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12016" CreationDate="2014-02-25T17:28:36.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing with random partners on BBO is pretty frustrating. You will find a lot of &quot;advanced&quot; players playing &quot;SAYC&quot; who:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make minimal offshape takeout doubles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make minimal (off or on)-shape takeout doubles, then freebid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;interpret your jumps in competitive auctions as strong&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;weak 2 bid&quot; = &quot;I have a six card suit and a bad hand&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;penalty double&quot; = &quot;I am sad that the other side won the auction&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;five hearts&quot; = &quot;I am in denial that the other side won the auction&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2C = &quot;I have 17 high card points and a singleton&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4NT = universal language of love.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bad habits aside, there's still the problem of unfamiliarity with each other's conventions, etc. My advice is: use minimal gadgetry, pass a lot, when you know that someone at the table is lying, don't automatically assume it isn't your partner, and, eventually, when you find a partner who, if not necessarily good, doesn't violate (1)-(8) above, add them as &quot;friend&quot; and then you can play with them the next time you are both on BBO instead of going fishing in the void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T17:28:36.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13972" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:59:07.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played in tournaments where you throw out one straight road tile before the starts. That way each player gets the same number of tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6735" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:59:07.943" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14773" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:59:33.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T18:59:33.770" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T18:59:33.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14774" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-25T18:59:33.770" Score="0" Body="Discworld: The Witches is an area control game set in Terry Pratchett's Discworld, specifically Lancre, and is focused on the witches characters." OwnerUserId="6979" LastEditorUserId="6979" LastEditDate="2014-02-25T19:09:35.440" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T19:09:35.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2014-02-25T20:20:43.553" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to get as many ppl as possible and at least 1 or each scoring category. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6998" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T20:20:43.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-25T21:49:29.723" Score="10" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the opening of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQMuu_7jn2I&quot;&gt;Tabletop episode for &lt;em&gt;Fortune and Glory&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, a tabletop gaming series with Will Wheaton, there is a disclaimer in the opening saying that many rules were used wrongly. I liked the game, but I'm wondering: what was done wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7001" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T21:09:58.617" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T10:37:21.367" Title="What rules were used wrong in Tabletop's episode for &quot;Fortune and Glory&quot;?" Tags="|scoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14778" CreationDate="2014-02-25T22:08:56.427" Score="4" ViewCount="6094" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature or multiple creatures that have a heroic ability and I activate a sorcery or instant that has an effect to &quot;creatures you control&quot; will this trigger the heroic ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T01:39:27.170" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T01:39:27.170" Title="Do cards that say &quot;creatures you control&quot; trigger Heroic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14777" CreationDate="2014-02-25T22:13:15.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, those effects do not &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a creature. The sorcery or instant card must specifically say that it &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;targets&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a creature to trigger Heroic effects. Enchantment Aura cards also target a creature, although they may not say so explicitly on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T22:13:15.700" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14781" CreationDate="2014-02-25T22:57:28.790" Score="26" ViewCount="12221" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a thief steal at level 1 given that failing to steal causes the thief to lose a level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T03:14:25.690" Title="In Munchkin, can a thief steal at level 1?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14779" CreationDate="2014-02-25T23:40:03.093" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have played it this way.  I've not found anything in the rules that indicates that you need to be able to cover the cost of failing before attempting the theft. Also, this is probably the best time to use the Theft ability since your level can never go below 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6278" LastActivityDate="2014-02-25T23:40:03.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14779" CreationDate="2014-02-26T01:17:08.817" Score="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot;&gt;Official Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. What happens to a Level 1 Thief who fails an attempt to steal? Does&#xA;  he die? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Nothing happens to him. You can't go below Level 1. (Beware&#xA;  the Level 1 Thief – he literally has nothing to lose!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T01:17:08.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14784" CreationDate="2014-02-26T10:54:20.443" Score="3" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some times in Ascension when I managed to empty my deck by drawing all the cards in it and also all the cards in the discard piles. It happened once or twice that I played a card that makes me draw another card. Are there special rules to cover this case, or do I simply ignore the drawing effect of the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6888" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T15:16:07.540" Title="Draw a card when my deck and my discard piles are empty" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14783" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T13:13:05.763" Score="1" ViewCount="909" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to create an online card game with fights like magic the gathering or any other mana-health card game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any card game that is open source and I can use the rules, cards and game-play free of charge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to create one of my own but it's so difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7012" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T13:27:55.570" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T13:27:55.570" Title="Are there any open source card game like magic the gathering?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-02-26T17:04:14.977" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14782" CreationDate="2014-02-26T15:01:28.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You simply skip the draw part of the instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://stoneblade.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=5&amp;amp;t=46#p253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Justin Gary&lt;/a&gt;, one of the designers of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have to draw a card and none are available in your deck or discard pile, you simply skip the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="6888" LastEditDate="2014-02-26T15:16:07.540" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T15:16:07.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2014-02-26T17:57:46.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way it breaks the game is each expansion's impact on the score becomes less as you add more expansions. Except for king and scout that scales exponentially as more expansions are added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6735" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T17:57:46.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14842" CreationDate="2014-02-26T19:09:39.197" Score="1" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I bought my copy of the Tokaido expansion &quot;Crossroads&quot;, the shop had included a bonus player named &quot;Eriku&quot; in the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He's not part of the main game for either the original board or the expansion, and some Googling has shown that Eriku was a bonus character given away at particular conventions and events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The catch is that Eriku's ability isn't easy to guess from the picture, and from what I can tell the rules for his character were only shown at the events where he was given away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most sensible interpretation I've found is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At each inn, including the first, Eriku can look at the first meal card and choose to buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct description? There are so many different variations of his ability floating around that I'm not sure which is right - can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7018" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:34:38.803" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:34:38.803" Title="What Is Eriku's Ability?" Tags="|tokaido|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-26T19:29:25.793" Score="6" ViewCount="4904" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola solo series is all about your occupations.  Often I have a great card that will help my current game, but I am always thinking about what is the long term significance of keeping it forever.  I've found the biggest problem with solo series games is the lack of wood.  Without a fence builder or extra wood card, you will never be able to build 15 fences and 4 stables (which you need to keep the max number of animals).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, these are the best categories of cards I've found so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tutor (played first) - worth up to 6 bonus points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lord of the Manor - worth up to 8 bonus points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Church Warden - worth 3 bonus points and gives 4 free wood to start the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Merchant (critical to give opportunity to play as many improvements as possible)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Either Hedgekeeper, fence deliveryman, forester, or some other sort of extra wood, extra free fences, or free stables card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At least 1 card giving additional actions (like Adoptive Parents, which gives an extra 3 actions throughout the course of the game for the low cost of 3 food)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 card that provides either extra goods (like pieceworker) or extra plowed fields (like field watchman) or extra goods on your fields (like fieldsman).  These cards save actions which I consider to be the most valuable currency in the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra stone is very very helpful through stone carrier or similar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra clay is very helpful or a card that makes all clay improvements and rooms cheaper (like clay mixer, clay deliveryman, or bricklayer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see I'm listing 9 categories, and we only get 7 so you can't obviously do EVERYTHING and you may get improvements that take the place of these occupations from time to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7019" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T21:51:26.833" Title="Whats the perfect set for Agricola solo series using E, I, and K decks?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14789" CreationDate="2014-02-26T19:51:00.313" Score="6" ViewCount="5352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you still battle a monster even if it will not pursue you due to low level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I'm level 1 and am fighting a monster that &quot;Will not purse anyone level 2 or below.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T20:53:10.990" Title="Can you still battle a monster even if it will not pursue you?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14788" CreationDate="2014-02-26T20:42:10.397" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Will not pursue anyone of level X or below&amp;quot; is a rule that only affects your potential to run away from the monster, it does not prevent you from facing or killing the monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it does leave you with an easy way out in case your friends do decide to power the monster up (not likely at level 1 or 2, but it may still happen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. I'm fighting a monster that says &amp;quot;Will not pursue anyone of Level X or below.&amp;quot; I'm below that Level; can I still fight the monster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. You certainly can fight the monster. If you do not win the combat and have to Run Away, you escape automatically (no roll required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T20:53:10.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14791" CreationDate="2014-02-26T21:59:32.420" Score="7" ViewCount="4070" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that in the old CCG version of Netrunner, there were rules which allowed the game to be played with four players, similar to two-headed giant in Magic: The Gathering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Were these rules official? How did they differ from the normal two-player rules? Do they still work in the modern LCG version of Android: Netrunner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5814" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T22:27:00.523" Title="Can Android: Netrunner be played with more than two people?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14790" CreationDate="2014-02-26T22:27:00.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not believe that there is an official 4 player variant for Android Netrunner, however the &quot;Big Sell Out&quot; variant from the original Netrunner has been reimplemented, unofficially:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://anr.phtn.de/formats/ANR_BigSellOut.pdf&quot;&gt;http://anr.phtn.de/formats/ANR_BigSellOut.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bit of discussion can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/67630-house-ruled-multiplayer-variants-for-original/&quot;&gt;this thread.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T22:27:00.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14793" CreationDate="2014-02-26T23:22:03.293" Score="5" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damage to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Protean%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Protean Hydra&lt;/a&gt; is prevented by removing +1/+1 counters from it. The card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a +1/+1 counter is removed from Protean Hydra, put two +1/+1 counters on it at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a -1/-1 counter is placed on it, it cancels out one +1/+1 counter. Is the counter still considered to be 'removed' or does it just disappear?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main Question: If Protean Hydra has a -1/-1 counter placed on it (say for example by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contagion%20Clasp&quot;&gt;Contagion Clasp&lt;/a&gt;), will it receive 2 +1/+1 counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7023" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T01:55:46.207" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T19:27:38.430" Title="Do negative counters trigger Protean Hydra?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14792" CreationDate="2014-02-26T23:29:09.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is removed and you get the EOT trigger. Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Protean+Hydra&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a -1/-1 counter is put on Protean Hydra while it has +1/+1 counters on it, that -1/-1 counter and a +1/+1 counter will be removed from it as a state-based action. This will cause Protean Hydra's last ability to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-02-26T23:29:09.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14792" CreationDate="2014-02-27T00:30:11.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5r If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are &lt;strong&gt;removed&lt;/strong&gt; from it, where N is the smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is actually a time where both the +1/+1 and the -1/-1 counters are on the Hydra. They are both removed the next time Stated-Based Actions are performed (State-based actions are performed right before a player would get priority. e.g. after a spell resolves, but not during the resolution of a spell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T19:27:38.430" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T19:27:38.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14799" CreationDate="2014-02-27T01:32:39.467" Score="2" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been considering getting one of the various LCG that are available from FFG (GoT, Star Wars, Cthulhu) but was wondering what the replayability is like for just having the core set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not want to have to keep buying the expansions every couple of months to keep the game fresh - at this stage, it will only be for two players. I am assuming any more than that will require each player to have their own core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T08:58:38.207" Title="How much replayability can I expect from a core set LCG" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|star-wars-lcg|game-of-thrones-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="619" CreationDate="2014-02-27T02:00:50.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola is about turn management.  Everything comes down to making the best use of your turns and every action you make has an opportunity cost.  The different numbers of players should also change your strategy.  There are some general guidelines that you can use to improve your play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know exactly how many turns you have until the next harvest, and know how many shots at each space you will get.  Both will help you decide the most important move to make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The less players there are in the game, the more denial should be a part of your strategy.  Ignore denial until the very last turn in a five player game and deny right from the start in a two player game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know which resources are most limited and are in most demand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Picking starting player at the right time can be extremely important, but remember that it is a wasted turn.  Always have a strong reason to do so.  Don't be afraid to change strategies if someone else is denying you that spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People are important, but only for their extra turns.  Always consider the actual value of getting an extra mouth to feed in the late game.  Sometimes taking the wood can be more valuable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget other people's professions.  A single profession could change the resource balance and demand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The last three spaces are the most valuable for points.  In the mid-game, try to ensure that you will be well positioned to exploit these locations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sometimes an opportunity will present itself that you might not see if you are dead set on a particular path.  Be flexible and always reassess your options.  It may actually be worth facing starvation if it will net you 4 or more victory points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The early game is about building a food engine and getting an extra family member as quickly as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mid game is about cleaning up a lot of -1 VPs and expanding your food engine.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The late game is about squeezing extra VPs out of the game where ever you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't ignore vegetables.  The sooner you sow them the better.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T02:00:50.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T02:36:27.863" Score="5" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Agricola the rules say something like if family growth occurs in the round before a harvest, the baby only needs one food.  Do you think this could be a rules &quot;typo&quot; and they actually meant to say in the &quot;stage&quot; before a harvest?  It would sure make feeding the family easier.  Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7026" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T03:27:23.167" Title="Feeding The Baby After The Next Harvest" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14797" CreationDate="2014-02-27T03:27:23.167" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time that a family member is only fed 1 food instead of 2 food is if that family member was just added to the family in the round that immediately preceded that harvest. In other words, if that family member has never yet taken any actions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T03:27:23.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14795" CreationDate="2014-02-27T08:58:38.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with any growing Card Game (LCG, CCG, TCG), unless you want to play competitively, it's never &lt;em&gt;required&lt;/em&gt; to get more cards. Since you don't need to keep up with changing metagames, new strategic ideas and new available cards, you can play with just what you have with your friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question remains how much fun you get out of it after having played for a while.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To answer that, I'll point you towards card games with a limited card pool. If you're playing with a fixed set of 32, 52, or just any number of cards, you can easily calculate the maximum number of combinations of cards each player can have. Combining those into tactical clusters (in &lt;em&gt;Poker&lt;/em&gt;, for example, it doesn't matter which Aces you have, 2 of them always have a specific strength) reduces that number to something in the 6 figures (more or less). Each of these cluster distributions gives a unique gaming experience and additionally, the fact there is &lt;strong&gt;private information&lt;/strong&gt; involved (you don't know which cards the other player(s) have) further increases the &lt;em&gt;complexity and diversity&lt;/em&gt; across several games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine having more cards. &lt;em&gt;Many more cards&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more cards you have available, the more complex situations can become. &lt;em&gt;Deckbuilding&lt;/em&gt; really only becomes a thing when you have a big pool of cards available, but usually, LCG core sets already offer some number of different options. There are always several decks belonging to different factions you can choose from, sometimes even tweak. What this means is you're not simply dealt a few cards, but you can &lt;em&gt;invest the effort&lt;/em&gt; to carefully decide which cards you want to have available in the first place. &lt;strong&gt;Then&lt;/strong&gt;, when you're actually playing, you have a similar situation to the one I described with the fixed deck games, where you have a giant number of possible card distributions, which are reduced by tactical clustering (or several copies of the same cards being played), but diversified by the existance of private information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;conclusion&lt;/strong&gt; time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;In my personal opinion&lt;/em&gt;, LCG core sets offer a lot of replayability and long-term fun, but if you really like the game and play a lot, strategy becomes such a strong factor that you quickly learn how each deck works and what its strengths and weaknesses are. At that point, the limited card pool leaves you craving for more options to surprise an equally educated opponent.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;My advice&lt;/em&gt; is this. Play with the core set. If you really like the game and play a lot, you will reach a point where you get the feeling you've mastered all of that game and it doesn't offer you any more surprise. At that point (or earlier if you just feel like it), get an expansion set. Basically, expansion sets for LCGs are like new, but similar games, except they actually have the size of the core and expansion sets combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long it takes until you should probably get an expansion really depends on how much you play and how long it takes you to figure out a game. If you have any decently complex game which you liked playing but at some point grew sick of, you can take that as a reference. But with an LCG, you can buy an expansion set at that point and revive the fun (and possibly even discover an entirely new aspect of the game in complex deckbuilding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T08:58:38.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14237" CreationDate="2014-02-27T14:28:58.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right. I have found the most recent version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielezimmer.at/ANDREA/CS4_RulesDEFinal_V7.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German rulebook&lt;/a&gt;. It clarifies this in several places (and shows the translation is inaccurate). The translations provided hereafter are my own work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Description of Abilities (Page IV)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Erste Hilfe:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Zu Beginn von Phase D (Ende&#xA;  der Runde) kannst du eine Infektion mit&#xA;  Glück (würfeln) und/oder durch Erfahrung&#xA;  (Abgeben eines BP-Plättchens) heilen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Aid:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  At the start of Phase D (end of the round), you can heal a trauma with luck (rolling a die) and/or with experience (discarding story points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The notable point here is &quot;and/or&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Picture of Character card Charles (Page XI)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Du kannst (würfeln), bevor du nach Infektionen&#xA;  schaust. Wenn du 5/6 erhältst, entferne eine&#xA;  Infektion von einem beliebigen Spieler. Du darfst&#xA;  2 BP ablegen, um eine Infektion von einem Spieler&#xA;  zu entfernen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may roll a die before checking for traumas. If you get a 5 or 6, remove one trauma from any player. You may discard 2 story points to remove one trauma from any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how there is no conjunction here. It simply puts each possibility into its own sentence, implying they're not dependant on each other.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For reference, here's my original post which pointed out why the conclusion would have been different if the translation had been accurate.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take this text apart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may roll a die before checking for trauma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Checking for trauma, as you said, can only refer to the check whether injuries will become traumas, which happens during the End of the turn phase. Before performing this check, you may roll a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you get a 5 or 6, remove one trauma from any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's pretty self-explanatory. You choose any player and remove one trauma from that player. Unless you rolled 1-4, in that case you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then, you may discard 2 story points in order to remove 1 trauma from any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is where the confusion really starts. &quot;Then&quot; in this case could either refer to &quot;After rolling and potentially removing 1 trauma&quot; or to &quot;After successfully removing one trauma&quot;. It really comes down to interpreting this &quot;Then&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Unfortunately, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homoludicus.org/naufragos/RulesENSmall.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rulebook&lt;/a&gt; gives no hint as to how it is to be interpreted except (Page IX)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IN CASE OF DOUBT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Castaways is a game with many options, and while we try to clarify all of the interactions&#xA;  between the cards, sometimes there is some doubt about how they should interact. In&#xA;  these cases, we recommend that the players use common sense. If that is not enough,&#xA;  you have the option of taking sides and performing a strength roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Common sense (this is reflected in several other card games) dictates that &quot;Then&quot; is only applied if whatever was supposed to happen before did actually happen. This is more obvious in cases such as &quot;take a shower, then put on some clothes, then leave the house&quot; and less in cases such as &quot;eat something, then do the laundry&quot;, but still usually applies. If you're told to do &quot;A, then B&quot;, unless you can do A, doing B is either obsolete, unwanted, or impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to do the last part even if the roll is unsuccessful, it should read something like &quot;Also, you may ...&quot; or &quot;Additionally, you may ...&quot; or even &quot;After trying, you may ...&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To conclude, the clear text should read&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the &lt;em&gt;End of the turn&lt;/em&gt; phase, you may roll a die before checking if injuries will become traumas. If you roll 5 or 6, remove 1 trauma from any player. Then, if you do, you may discard 2 story points in order to remove 1 trauma from any player. This skill can be used once per End of the turn phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T18:39:27.310" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T18:39:27.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14354" CreationDate="2014-02-27T14:36:09.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Think it's clearly stated in the Tyranid codex:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Designer's Note: Tyranid Melee weapons come as pairs. For game&#xA;  purposes, each pair is treated as a single Melee weapon. This means&#xA;  that Tyranid models must fight with two pairs of any Tyranid Melee&#xA;  weapons to gain a bonus Attack in close combat for fighting with two&#xA;  weapons. - Page 111 (Interactive codex)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3653" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T14:36:09.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14809" CreationDate="2014-02-27T17:52:39.473" Score="8" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes people will try to save the Giant Skunk for when they're level 9 to fight it to prevent people from screwing them over too much at the end. However my friends and I have debated about whether or not you can use the Annihilation card to remove the Giant Skunk card from the game after someone plays it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Giant Skunk: &lt;em&gt;They may not help you, backstab you, or use any cards either for or against you -- except for Wandering Monsters and monster enhancers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Annihilation: &lt;em&gt;Play this card at any time to permanently remove any one card from the game. It does not go to the discard pile . . . put it back in the box and forget it. The target card must be in play when you use Annihilation on it. If an opponent had &lt;strong&gt;just&lt;/strong&gt; played it, it is canceled and has no effect.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people say yes, others say no, and still others say it depends on the timing. Which is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-02-27T22:53:40.327" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T19:23:08.877" Title="Can you use the Annihilation card on a Giant Skunk that someone else is fighting?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14834" CreationDate="2014-02-27T19:40:06.467" Score="11" ViewCount="4471" Body="&lt;p&gt;How good are computers at Cribbage? Are the best humans still better than the best computers? I can find lots of AIs online, but only in the context of selling computer and mobile cribbage games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7031" LastActivityDate="2020-08-28T05:16:07.907" Title="Strongest cribbage bots" Tags="|cribbage|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14237" CreationDate="2014-02-27T20:15:03.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your interpretation looks correct: regardless of the result of the die roll, you may spend two story points to remove one trauma. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1647701/castaways&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Looking at the cards&lt;/a&gt;, they are extremely short on space. Using the shorter word &quot;then&quot; instead of &quot;additionally&quot; for spending story points looks like a compromise based on space. (Considering the game is made by a German company, it might simply be an ambiguous translation.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T20:15:03.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15135" CreationDate="2014-02-27T22:34:48.163" Score="7" ViewCount="22772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing &lt;strong&gt;The Resistance: Avalon&lt;/strong&gt; with a group and we're finding that the games usually end with the Good Guys passing 3 missions, but then the Forces of Evil win by assassinating Merlin. This has happened 4 times out of the last 5 games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually play with 7 or 8 people, although we've played with 5 or 6 people on occasion. For extra roles we usually add in Percival and Morgana. With 7 or more we also use the Lady of the Lake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 3 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can we change which roles we use to make Merlin's death less likely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I'm Merlin, how do I steer things in the right direction without outing myself to the Forces of Evil?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If I'm Percival (or even just a normal Good Guy), what can I do to protect Merlin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="6121" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T11:58:06.653" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:06:00.720" Title="Merlin always gets stabbed" Tags="|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14807" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14810" CreationDate="2014-02-27T22:36:20.550" Score="1" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;For investigators that start with a Blessing or a retainer, do they need to roll to check if they discard the blessing or retainer during their first upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do investigators that gain one of these cards during the game roll to check if they discard &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; holding that card for one turn or do they check on their first upkeep as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T05:53:53.043" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T05:53:53.043" Title="Do investigators who start with blessing need to check for discard in their first turn?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14808" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-02-27T22:37:29.100" Score="6" ViewCount="2252" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a child, I played Scrabble with my grandmother. At the end of each game, she would tally the total score (i.e. both players' combined), and consider the game a good one if the total was high, a worse game it was lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is that a common way to determine whether a game of Scrabble is good? Is it &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; common way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there any other common ways to determine a good game? (Perhaps &amp;mdash; and, as a novice player, I'm just guessing &amp;mdash; number of bingos, number &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;-ple-word squares covered by tiles, how many times the expensive tiles were used (across and down or just once), how many tiles were left unused at the end, how many squares were used along the edges of the board, vel sim.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either of those may depend on the level of play, in which case I'd like to know answers both for the novice level I played her at and for more advanced levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1946" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T21:31:32.770" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T09:39:52.113" Title="How can I best assess the quality of a game of Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|scoring|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14802" CreationDate="2014-02-27T22:57:35.607" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Giant Skunk has just been played (via Kicking Down The Door or Looking For Trouble), then you may play Annihilation to cancel the Giant Skunk. At the time it's being played, it doesn't have all of its defensive text; Annihilation means &lt;em&gt;it never existed.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's in play, Annihilation won't help, because that isn't a monster enhancer or wandering monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're going to Annihilate a Giant Skunk, be quick about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=51569&quot;&gt;Steve Jackson Games Forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T22:57:35.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14807" CreationDate="2014-02-27T23:07:10.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (page 6: Upkeep: Perform Upkeep Actions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bless, Curse, Bank Loan, and Retainer cards do not require an upkeep roll during the first Upkeep Phase after an investigator acquires them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless of when and how you acquire the card (including during setup), you always have one Upkeep for which you do not roll to lose the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-02-27T23:07:10.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14808" CreationDate="2014-02-28T00:43:07.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of those suggestions you proffer for judging the quality of a game are excellent ones. Remarkably, an extremely accurate mechanism for weighting them all appropriately, so as to correctly assess the total quality of a game, has already been invented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surprisingly, this mechanism ha been around since the game's inception, and is in fact a fundamental component of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is called &lt;strong&gt;the score&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, just go back to your grandmother's knee and accept her worldly wisdom. By definition, the quality of each participant's play has already been judged, weighted by defensive and offensive maneuvers, and use of board bonuses and bingoes, and calculated to be their score on each play. Adding them up is in fact the way to judge the quality of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T00:43:07.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14812" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14814" CreationDate="2014-02-28T04:19:28.977" Score="4" ViewCount="2491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played with a group recently who was convinced that an effect like &quot;each creature&quot; will target (while &quot;all creatures&quot; does not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider rule 114.9a good enough to prove that it must say &quot;target&quot; or have a keyword whose rule says target or... it doesn't target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they are so sure that I think I will get some push back.  Is there anything besides rule 114.9a that I could use to clearly show that &quot;each&quot; does not target?  (Assuming I am right and it doesn't.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T04:59:26.973" Title="&quot;Each&quot; and Targeting" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14181" CreationDate="2014-02-28T04:23:43.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Goons strategy counters perfectly.  Opponent only gains cards not VP tokens, so if you have a deck of nothing but +actions +cards and Goons, it is difficult to lose to possession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7035" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T04:23:43.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14812" CreationDate="2014-02-28T04:59:26.973" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote 114.9a, with bold for emphasis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.9a Just because an object or player is being affected by a spell or ability doesn't make that object or player a target of that spell or ability. &lt;strong&gt;Unless that object or player is identified by the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; in the text of that spell or ability, or the rule for that keyword ability, &lt;strong&gt;it's not a target&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That really seems as straight-forward as possible. Does the spell or keyword rule use the exact specific word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;? No? Then &amp;quot;it's not a target&amp;quot;. The only other thing I can think of that may help is to show them gatherer rulings from any number of cards. Look at any card with Overload, for example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cyclonic%20Rift&quot;&gt;Cyclonic Rift&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blustersquall&quot;&gt;Blustersquall&lt;/a&gt;, etc. Both of these have Gatherer rulings that specifically state &amp;quot;If you pay the overload cost, the spell won't have any targets.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T04:59:26.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14816" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-02-28T12:23:13.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Trading Card Game (TCG), also called Collectible Card Game (CCG), is a strategic card game that uses collectible cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earliest and most well known example is Magic: the Gathering (&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/mtg&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;mtg&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;mtg&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This tag is meant for questions about Trading Card Games without a tag of their own, or for questions about TCGs in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T13:45:35.693" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T13:45:35.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14817" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-02-28T12:23:13.777" Score="0" Body="For questions about Trading Card Games without a tag of their own, or for questions about TCGs in general." OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T13:45:23.617" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T13:45:23.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14821" CreationDate="2014-02-28T12:49:42.630" Score="3" ViewCount="1953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nightveil Specter has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Nightveil Specter deals combat damage to a player, that&#xA;  player exiles the top card of his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may play cards exiled with Nightveil Specter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand the rules text, I can play the card whenever it is legal to play, say a land: I can play one land in one of my main phase. But, can I play the exiled land form last turn? And what if in the meantime I exiled another card? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First I exile a Forest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I exile a Scavenging Ooze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I play the land first and then the ooze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T22:00:57.563" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T14:17:19.583" Title="Nightveil Specter - Do I have to play the cards in order they were exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14598" CreationDate="2014-02-28T13:05:52.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia already details&lt;/a&gt;, there are many different draughts variants, but there are two common rules and one exotic rule according to which kings can capture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long-ranged kings&lt;/strong&gt;. This is the most common rule, which applies to e.g. the International/Brazilian/Canadian, Russian, Spanish and Czech draughts variants and to Pool checkers in the USA. A king can &quot;scan&quot; across empty squares for capture victims, and it can also &quot;slide&quot; through empty squares directly behind a jumped piece. Each of these potential &quot;landing&quot; squares can be used as the starting point for &quot;scanning&quot; for the next victim, which can be in a direction orthogonal to the current direction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short-ranged kings&lt;/strong&gt;. This applies to American checkers and Italian draughts. A king can only capture a piece when it is directly adjacent to it, and it has to &quot;land&quot; directly behind a jumped piece from which it can continue jumping other pieces, including in a direction orthogonal to the current direction.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exotic kings&lt;/strong&gt;. The prime example is Thai draughts, where the king can &quot;scan&quot; across empty squares for capture victims, but where it has to &quot;land&quot; directly behind a jumped piece, and can only &quot;scan&quot; for its next victim from that same landing square.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For almost all draughts variants, the jumped pieces are only removed from the board when the king is on its destination square. Furthermore, it is not allowed to jump the same piece more than once during a capture sequence. Changing directions in a capture sequence is therefore only by 90 degrees left or right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Thai draughts, however, each jumped victim is immediately removed from the board, after which the king can continue capturing more victims, including &lt;strong&gt;in the direction it came from&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. 180 degrees turned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T13:05:52.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2014-02-28T13:11:57.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can play them in any order you want as long as you follow all timing restrictions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/24/2013     The card is exiled face up. All players may look at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/24/2013     Playing a card exiled with Nightveil Specter follows all&#xA;  the normal rules for playing that card. You must pay its costs, and&#xA;  you must follow all timing restrictions, for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/24/2013&#xA;    Nightveil Specter's last ability applies to cards exiled with that&#xA;  specific Nightveil Specter, not any other creature named Nightveil&#xA;  Specter. You should keep cards exiled by different Nightveil Specters&#xA;  separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T13:11:57.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2014-02-28T13:14:49.550" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the rulings for this card on Gatherer: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366242&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer: Nightveil Specter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card is exiled face up. All players may look at it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Playing a card exiled with Nightveil Specter follows all the normal rules for playing that card. You must pay its costs, and you must&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  follow all timing restrictions, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Nightveil Specter’s last ability applies to cards exiled with that specific Nightveil Specter, not any other creature named Nightveil Specter. You should keep cards exiled by different Nightveil Specters separate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards are effectively put to one side, to be used as you see fit. It's as if they are added to your hand. You can play them when you choose, but you have to follow the usual rules for playing those cards, including costs and timings. So you're still restricted to playing one land per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order of exile isn't relevant here, only the copy of the Specter that exiled the card. So if it was exiled last turn it’s still available to you. This is because exile is effectively a place, the card has been removed from the game, and it stays that way until something changes its state… like you choosing to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T21:57:05.823" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T21:57:05.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14818" CreationDate="2014-02-28T14:14:58.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It simply means you can play them just like cards in your hand. Think of it as a larger hand size, except they're not actually in your hand. This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effects that inspect your hand, cards in your hand or your hand size will ignore them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effects that affect your hand, cards in your hand or your hand size will ignore them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can't be discarded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They're visible to everyone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I play the land first and then the ooze?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular case, you can't play either until your second main phase comes around because they're not instants. Then, you can play the land (if you haven't yet played one this turn) or cast the ooze in any order or not at all. You also have the options of playing them at a later time, as long as Nightveil Specter hasn't left the battlefield (at all) since it exiled the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-03-11T21:57:52.913" LastActivityDate="2019-03-11T21:57:52.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14808" CreationDate="2014-02-28T14:27:40.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always thought a good game was one that was fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T14:27:40.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14808" CreationDate="2014-02-28T16:15:42.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quality of a &lt;strong&gt;game&lt;/strong&gt; is not determined by the height or depth of the total score. A great example is a soccer match where the total score is 25 goals. Obviously, one or both teams did not know how to play defense very well. Does 25 goals indicate that the game was good? Not necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's examine a three games where we got a total score of 25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One team scores 25 points and the other scores 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One team scores 12 points in a row, and then the other scores 13 in a row&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One team scores 13 points and the other scores 12, but the scores are interwoven&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we judge on total score, all three games are of &lt;em&gt;equal&lt;/em&gt; quality. Obviously the first game is not a quality game, because one team was stomped and the other was not given a challenge. What are some other ways to measure quality? Let's try these metrics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closeness of the scores of each player at the end of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Closeness of the scores of each player throughout the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The strategy and/or tactics of each player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strategy of saving useful tiles may lead to a lower beginning score, but a large payoff at the end. A more aggressive strategy of grabbing points when you can may nab you the win, but you may be surpassed by a more patient player. My conclusion is that &lt;strong&gt;the quality of a game is based on closeness of the final score and the strategies each player employed&lt;/strong&gt; to get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A commentator asked that I provide ideas on measuring good strategy. I can only provide a lower bound, as well as some additional notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player who mulligans his hand repeatedly until losing, or simply concedes every game as soon as it starts, has employed the absolute worst strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A perfect players employs the absolute best strategy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All strategies in between are subjectively good or bad. Often in Chess, strategy employed in a game is reviewed by panels of experts. Books are written about good strategy in Scrabble. The strategy of a professional Scrabble player is probably good. The quality of a game between a guy and his grandmother may be undeterminable if neither player possesses expert knowledge on good Scrabble strategy, and a panel of experts is not available. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-02-28T16:39:02.493" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T16:39:02.493" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2014-02-28T23:08:29.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The world has changed a lot, even in bridge. The real strength of the weak not trump is when you do not open 1NT! It makes bidding much more precise, no need to open 4crd major (which acolytes may prefer), 1m is always strong, either in hcp or distribution. This and much more was writen as early as 1958, by (sic!) Americans (Edgar Kaplan and Alfred Sheinwold) in &quot;How to play winning bridge&quot;.&#xA;Of course using the WNT changes your complete bidding struchture. Even more foolish to have the strength of 1NT depend upon vulnerability as in original Acol. You have to learn two different bidding systems. Better to use your brain capacity to improve your card play. IMHO Kaplan Sheinwold Updated (published 1978) is still the best compromise between natural an conventional bidding systems for ordinary people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7042" LastActivityDate="2014-02-28T23:08:29.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14828" CreationDate="2014-03-01T04:28:06.283" Score="4" ViewCount="1768" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once came across a nifty little diagram that had all the Arkham Horror expansions on it with lines drawn between them showing which ones worked well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the life of me, I cannot find this diagram (even though I am certain I had it printed out before). I've trawled google for the past couple of days but cannot find it. I'm starting to think that I might be going mad and just imagined the whole thing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Help appreciated! =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T06:19:34.460" Title="Arkham horror expansion compatability diagram" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14826" CreationDate="2014-03-01T06:19:34.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of this one from boardgamegeek which was tallied up from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/561975/vote-on-how-to-combine-expansions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;community vote&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9C4T7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T06:19:34.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14832" CreationDate="2014-03-01T13:12:12.093" Score="2" ViewCount="974" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do two monsters spawn on gates when playing with five or more investigators, or is this just a house rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-01T19:18:49.097" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T06:08:59.297" Title="Do two monsters spawn on gates when playing with five or more investigators?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14831" CreationDate="2014-03-01T13:15:46.937" Score="5" ViewCount="1158" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two investigators were in the same location in Arkham. The first investigator drew an encounter 'A monster and gate appear!'. He resolved that encounter by fighting the monster and then getting drawn through the gate. The second investigator also got drawn through the gate before having an encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also said that the two investigators did not have an Other World encounter as they were 'delayed' as they were drawn in to the gate. This ended up with the second investigator not having any encounters on this particular turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was that the correct ruling? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-03-01T17:04:10.797" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T03:29:16.457" Title="Drawn through gate during an Arkham encounter" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14830" CreationDate="2014-03-01T17:03:57.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Delayed has no bearing on whether an investigator has an Other World encounter or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the gate takes precedence.  Both investigators should have been drawn through the gate first, then the monster appears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dunwich Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; When a location card says a gate and a monster appear, which appearance is resolved first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; The gate appears first, and any investigators at the location are drawn through the gate. Then the monster appears. Monsters that appear as a result of these encounters stay on the board, count against the monster limit, can go to the Outskirts, etc., as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from the errata section of the same document:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arkham Encounters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(pages 8-9 in the first printing of the Arkham Horror rules)&#xA;If an investigator is drawn through a gate that appears as&#xA;a result of an encounter (such as “A gate appears!” or “A&#xA;gate and a monster appear!”), then he is delayed, just as if&#xA;he had been drawn through a gate in the Mythos Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T03:29:16.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14829" CreationDate="2014-03-01T19:17:03.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is an official rule. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, p.9/10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;A Monster Appears&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first player draws a monster marker from the cup at random and places it on the location. If this would bring the number of monsters over the monster limit, the first player places the monster in the Outskirts instead...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exception:&lt;/strong&gt; If there are five or more investigators playing, then draw and place two monsters instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T06:08:59.297" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T06:08:59.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-01T20:37:55.270" Score="4" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=265385&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Golgari Charm&lt;/a&gt; (an instant) before my opponent attacks. I choose the &quot;all creatures get -1/-1 until end of turn&quot; and then my opponent attacks with, among other creatures, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270792&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Precinct Captain&lt;/a&gt; which says &quot;whenever Precinct Captain deals combat damage to a player, put a 1/1 white Soldier creature token onto the battlefield&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Precinct Captain successfully deals combat do the 1/1 Soldier tokens it creates die instantly because of the Golgari Charm's &quot;-1/-1 until end of turn&quot; or do they survive because they weren't in play at the time the &quot;-1/-1 until end of turn&quot; took effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T20:37:55.270" Title="do creatures created after a &quot;all creatures get -1/-1 until end of turn&quot; instant get -1/-1 as well?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-03-02T03:31:17.053" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14804" CreationDate="2014-03-01T22:32:08.373" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played literally hundreds of AI's... the strongest opponent cribbage games are all cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The core Issues&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cribbage is focused upon 3 key priorities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximize points in hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maximize points in play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimize risk of giving points in the crib.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These boil down to two key skills:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing is governed by a fairly easily coded set of rules. It's about 30 or 40 decision points, barring reading of the opponent's body language. Coded, it can be done convincingly hard in about 250 lines of basic code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping is much harder, because it has to balance all three priorities. My own decision tree starts with looking for certain combinations. This alone is several hundred lines of code. ANd then the exception seeking - which requires a good risk assessment protocol. And this is where it gets hard to code.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The AIs&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best non-cheating AI's I've played against (some 30 different programs, 10 of which I was able to examine the source, the others had a normal distribution of hands) are generally about as good as I am. I'm pretty good, but not great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I've played some 50+ different cribbage games - and I know for a fact that 3 of them cheat, and suspect about 20 more cheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest cheat mechanism is to have the computer's hand use a different randomization than the player's hand. One such program was for PalmOS - In 30+ sets to 8 games, it never once had a hand less than 4 points, and never had a 19 crib, either. And it averaged over 6 points per hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several others use similar, but I'm less certain of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One, I got hold of the source, and found the code actually gave the computer 8 cards, not 6, kept 4, put two in the crib, and two back in the deck. It was incredibly hard to beat, but occasionally got a 19 hand. I suspect many of using 1-2 extra cards like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Third Key Skill&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 3rd key skill for Cribbage - one that AIs as yet have not implemented: reading one's opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EG: In 2004, my buddy George and I played over 50 sets. We usually played  a set during the week, and almost always a set on the weekend, sometimes 2 sets on the weekend. Our play varied by whether we were watching TV or not - when not, we both knew what the other had by subtle cues of posture and reaction to cards. Cribs while not watching TV were usually 0-4 points, and hands typically in the 4-15 point range, with the occasional 2 or 19. When we weren't paying attention, cribs varied more widely, including a 29... I had 5-6-7-8-8-J, Geo had 5-5-7-7-8-8; turn was, of course, the missing jack, my crib. I knew he was throwing points because, while he threw down almost immediately, he also had an eyebrow twitch (a tell for a pair of pairs or a pair royal plus 15-complement). Had it been his crib, with the twitch I might have thrown the 8-J instead of the 5-J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the reasons for including &amp;quot;Cheating&amp;quot; AI's is because that can simulate to a certain degree the reading of one's opponent and the effect upon scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Further Discussion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To date, I've seen little documentation of AI work in Cribbage - I've found one academic paper (&lt;a href=&quot;http://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/viewdoc/download?doi=10.1.1.5.4714&amp;amp;rep=rep1&amp;amp;type=pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kendall &amp;amp; Shaw, 2002&lt;/a&gt;), and it is more interested in the development of their own AI. Further, it compares to an non-heuristic AI - Ultimate Cribbage - which I've played, and found a solid opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheating AI's, however, are the hardest ones I've found to play against. Just be warned, however - some of those can train one to suboptimal play, especially those that cheat with the crib, as your own crib-risk calculations can become skewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-01T22:32:08.373" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14493" CreationDate="2014-03-02T14:50:15.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the action phase you can perform actions that are prefixed with the text &lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Local action:&lt;/strong&gt; on any of the cards that belong to your investigator. &quot;Component&quot; is just a very general term for all these cards. There are so many of them, it would be tedious to list them all. These are items, artifacts, your investigator card, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule you quoted at the top is the explanation of how to handle component actions in the framework that you can do only two things in a round and cannot do the same thing twice. For example if you have a reusable artifact with an action to damage a monster on your space, you could use it only once per round. After that you will have one more action left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your post I don't know what you meant by this bullet point list in the action phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed the Mind (ritual spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blessing of Isis (ritual spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynamite (item - weapon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holy water (item magical)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do any 2, and only 2 of these things in the same round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per preventing, you can use bandages to prevent damage right at the moment when the damage would be dealt. If the card says you can use it only in combat encounters, then you cannot use it while resolving a clue or other effect, it applies only in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using something to help other players, you can only do that if the card says it's a local action or explicitly mentions. If it's a local action then you can only use it on players on the same space as yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6503" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T14:50:15.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15169" CreationDate="2014-03-02T16:22:16.230" Score="8" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a dozen or so games of Flash Point so far and always find it necessary to have someone be the Driver/Operator, stay in the firetruck, and just use the Deck Gun all game. The right roll can put out five fires at once, the Driver/Operator can use the gun twice per turn, and there's the option to re-roll both attempts at no cost. In other words, it seems like the Driver/Operator is overpowering but essential to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What changes can I make to the rules or to my general strategy if I want to remove the Driver/Operator and still keep the building from collapsing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3661" LastEditorUserId="3661" LastEditDate="2014-04-21T02:33:53.097" LastActivityDate="2021-01-19T05:07:32.623" Title="Flash Point without the Deck Gun?" Tags="|house-rules|balance|flash-point|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2014-03-02T17:41:39.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Chase-Simon experiment with expert and novice chess players suggests that you don't need a superhuman memory to play bridge, and, moreover, that what you perceive as a memory-skills deficit between yourself and better bridge players is more likely to be &lt;strong&gt;caused by&lt;/strong&gt; their being good bridge players rather than &lt;strong&gt;the cause&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you haven't read about this experiment, it's explained nicely in the first couple paragraphs of this webpage. The short summary is that chess experts are way better than chess novices at remembering realistic chess boards and absolutely no better than them at memory tasks not directly related to the play of chess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://psy.fsu.edu/faculty/ericssonk/ericsson.mem.exp.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://psy.fsu.edu/faculty/ericssonk/ericsson.mem.exp.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is that the human mind is not so good at remembering lists of numbers, but is great at remembering narratives. When you start playing bridge, &quot;I started with AKJT3 of spades and dummy had 84&quot; sounds like a list of numbers. After a while, it seems like a narrative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my first advice would be: forget about your memory trouble, and get better at bridge. The most fun and productive way to do this is to play at your local duplicate club. This is much better than the slow play you will get by taking bridge lessons or playing casually with your family/friends (I don't recommend jumping into the deep end of the pool for total novices, but it sounds like you know what you're doing). Slow play is particularly taxing for the memory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second advice would be: turn what you see as soon as the dummy comes down into a narrative. You can start this simply. If you are declaring: &quot;I am missing 5 trumps and we have a lot of clubs, so I hope I can set them up after a few tricks.&quot; Much later in the hand, when you are thinking &quot;I can't remember if my 8 of clubs is good or not,&quot; hopefully you will remember, &quot;wait, I started out with a bunch of them, and I don't remember anything really crazy happening, like righty being void in clubs, so, probably my 8 is good.&quot; If you find yourself wondering about the 6 of diamonds, well, you and your partner had bunches of spades and clubs, so it seems unlikely that the 6 is good late in the hand. Of course this is not perfect or even very good, but it's a lot better than giving up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if you don't have a long suit, maybe there's a suit that you'd like to finesse in. Remembering that this was the suit you were trying to grab an extra winner in will help you remember that you started with AQ in your hand (or maybe a naked king on the board, or...) Or maybe RHO bid hearts a billion times before you finally shut her up with 4 spades and partner comes down with a long heart suit. Part of your story is &quot;there aren't a lot of hearts to my left.&quot; Maybe you only remember that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get better you will get really used to situations like the ones above. So hopefully, after a month or so of playing at the club once a week, you will have been declarer with a long side suit sufficiently many times that it's no problem remembering exactly how extreme your extra length is (8? 9? 10 cards in the suit?). And then remembering strength within the suit, etc., will follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="3196" LastEditDate="2017-07-16T19:38:48.083" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T19:38:48.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14840" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-02T18:39:01.643" Score="4" ViewCount="2416" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Forbidden Desert the climber's card says that they can move to any blocked tile, whereas the jetpack says it can only be used to fly to an unblocked tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the climber use the jetpack to travel to a blocked tile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We just played a game and went by the ruling in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1073527/the-climber-and-the-jetpack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt;, which allowed it, but it would be nice if someone can point out a more official ruling (or even a thread where the conclusion is more confident!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-02T19:07:54.197" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T08:47:53.940" Title="Can the climber jetpack to a buried tile?" Tags="|forbidden-desert|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14786" CreationDate="2014-03-02T22:53:38.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Antoine Bauza (the designer of Tokaido):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eriku can look at the first Meal card of the deck and choose to buy it&#xA;  instead of one of the regular cards. At the first Inn, He can also&#xA;  look at the top card and buy it (no regular hand here of course). So&#xA;  He can eat one more meal than the others... Official rules and wording&#xA;  will come on Funforge Website I guess...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at the first inn, presumably before setting off, Eriku can look at the top card of the meal deck and choose to buy it. Then, on arriving at each subsequent inn, he may include the top card of the meal deck in his choices of what to eat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1063646/what-is-erikus-ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1063646/what-is-erikus-ability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-03-02T22:53:38.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14844" CreationDate="2014-03-03T01:38:13.453" Score="3" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card '&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Mists_of_Releh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mists of Releh&lt;/a&gt;' allows you to pass an evade check upon succesfull cast. Should your attempt to cast the spell fail, can you then proceed to do a regular evade check or does it count as failing the evade check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact wording is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast and exhaust to pass an Evade check. The casting modifier is equal to the monster's Awareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T01:46:01.527" Title="Failing an attempt to cast Mists of Releh" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14843" CreationDate="2014-03-03T01:46:01.527" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you certainly can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If you fail to cast Mists of Releh, can you still make the &#xA;  Evade check normally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T01:46:01.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14840" CreationDate="2014-03-03T03:39:34.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wish I could reference the rule book, but they do not explicitly state the use of equipment with your special ability. So personally, I'd say play by your own house rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in this specific case I do not think this matchup is allowed. As you mentioned, the card does state to move to an unblocked tile specifically which basically is the answer to your question right there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also every equipment card has 3 stipulations listed at the bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play at any time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not count as an action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard to box after use&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it doesn't count as an action and can be played at anytime, I feel that also kind of discourages away from mixing equipment with special abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Desert is a great, short game to play on a rainy day, however I think the company needs to clean up it's rulebook and add some much needed clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy gaming!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5579" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T03:39:34.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14840" CreationDate="2014-03-03T12:59:10.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no.  Other cases where players special abilities combine (Navigator and Climber) or where a player's special ability combines with equipment (Explorer and Dune Blaster) are explicitly mentioned.  The Climber says they can move to blocked spaces, not that they treat blocked spaces as unblocked. So I don't see anything that suggests you would be able to modify the jet pack's explicit statement that you can only move to unblocked tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T12:59:10.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11957" CreationDate="2014-03-03T13:27:07.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;FFG has now released an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_news.asp?eidn=4673&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official draft format&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To participate in draft play, each player needs two components:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;draft starter pack&lt;/strong&gt;, which is a fixed set of cards (Armitage Codebusting, Crypsis, PAD Campaign, Priority Requisition, special draft identities). These cards are &quot;private&quot; to each player, and can be reused for multiple drafts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;draft pack&lt;/strong&gt;, which contains a random selection of 40 cards of either runner or corp. In order to draft for both sides, a draft pack for each side is needed. These are the cards used for the draft. Draft packs are not indended to be reused, but the cards are legal for normal play unless otherwise noted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The draft is done in 4 rounds of 10 cards each. Each round, each player starts with the top 10 cards of their draft pack. If drafting both sides, draft Corp decks first. After drafting, each player adds their draft starter pack to their pool of cards available for deckbuilding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few rules differences between draft play and normal play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players use the special draft identities, which are both neutral with a 30 card deck limit and unlimited influence. The Corp identity can use agendas from all factions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decks may include any number of copies of each card, instead of the normal maximum of 3 copies per card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games are played to 6 Agenda Points instead of the normal 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An informal introduction video can be seen &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qmvgsZaHEAM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7057" LastEditorUserId="7057" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T11:42:10.340" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T11:42:10.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1023" CreationDate="2014-03-03T14:24:00.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two good rules of thumb are, never resign in a position with contact, and resign if the result is &quot;obvious&quot;. If you need to stop and think to work it out then it's probably quicker to just play on to a position of certainty anyway - certainly so online where forced moves (and optionally, greedy bearoffs) can be played automatically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's generally not considered polite to resign a single game if a gammon is still possible, however unlikely - some players will interpret it as a way to trick them out of the gammon possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastActivityDate="2014-03-03T14:24:00.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-03T19:27:53.240" Score="8" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Herald&lt;/strong&gt; from Dominion Guilds says that you can over pay for it and if you do, you may put X Action cards from your discard on top of your deck, where X is the amount you overpaid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you place Herald on top of your deck if you overpay?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: This question comes down to a matter of timing. Does the &quot;when you buy this&quot; clause occur before or after you place Hearld in the discard pile)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:04:10.250" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:04:10.250" Title="Can the Herald put itself on top of your draw deck?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14861" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:12:05.730" Score="4" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with the &lt;strong&gt;Wild West Show&lt;/strong&gt; expansion and &lt;strong&gt;Dorothy Rage&lt;/strong&gt; is in play, can you force a player to play a &lt;strong&gt;Bang&lt;/strong&gt; against themselves (or any other card where the effect can be applied to another player, distance-based or otherwise)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T18:30:07.713" Title="Can you force a player to **Bang** themselves when Dorothy Rage is in play?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14853" CreationDate="2014-03-04T01:51:59.720" Score="2" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSw7n.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Drawing of character fom the animé and manga Bleach. From left to right: Ulquiorra Cifer, Byakuya Kuchiki, Ichigo Kurosaki, Gin Ichimaru, Grimmjow Jaegerjaquez&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What game do the cards in the hands of the guy second from the right (Gin Ichimaru) come from, if they do come from from any game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T15:54:59.473" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T15:54:59.473" Title="What game are these cards from?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14852" CreationDate="2014-03-04T02:01:00.973" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell they are standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarot&quot;&gt;Tarot&lt;/a&gt; cards. Shown are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Judgement_%28Tarot_card%29&quot;&gt;Judgement&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Tower_%28Tarot_card%29&quot;&gt;The Tower&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are games that can be played with them, they are not &lt;strong&gt;from&lt;/strong&gt; a specific game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T04:25:54.097" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T04:25:54.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14850" CreationDate="2014-03-04T03:51:01.087" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Herald cannot put itself on top of the deck by overpaying.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/10525/donald-x-vaccarino&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;designer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/12519698#12519698&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Donald X. Vaccarino&lt;/a&gt; on BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: OK, so when the &amp;quot;when buy&amp;quot; effect kicks in, is the herald you just bought in the discard pile yet? Or would it have to be a &amp;quot;when gain&amp;quot; like Inn to do that? i.e., can you pay 5 to buy a herald and put it on top?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: When-buy, which includes overpay, triggers before gaining, so you can't buy a Herald and use its overpay to put that very Herald on top of your deck.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T03:51:01.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14856" CreationDate="2014-03-04T07:50:34.327" Score="2" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am organizing a Bridge club in my workplace and I want it to be Duplicate Bridge one, but currently sometimes we don't get 8 people to join the meeting (I hope, in the future the club will grow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I had an idea, that if there are 4 people beside me, I could duplicate deals from some international event (without saying what event it would be) and make them play these deals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the idea fair and will it help players learn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How should it be scored (is it OK e.g. to score always against open room or do I have to use some other way)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you know of any other people that utilized this way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="807" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T09:54:07.767" Title="Playing duplicate bridge against players from some event" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14855" CreationDate="2014-03-04T09:54:07.767" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was formerly a product called Doop (which as far as I can tell is no longer printed) that used a similar idea. They would provide hand records from old regional tournaments along with the scores produced for those hands. It would operate like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player is given a deck of cards and the list of hands for their seat (so e.g. North gets a list of the North hands). At hand 1, each player makes the first hand for their direction out of their deck of cards. The hand is played (duplicate style, with each player keeping their own cards after playing them), and the score recorded. Then hand 2 is played, etc. At the end of play, compare the recorded scores with those recorded for the earlier tournament and record the match point score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have some choices with regard to movement. If you have exactly four players, you might choose to play with the same partner throughout. You might also rotate players so that each player plays a set number of hands with each other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find hand records and scores for tournaments in a number of places. For example, you can find results from recent Allendale, NJ sectional tournaments at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridge-njba.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bridge-njba.org/&lt;/a&gt;, or from a regional played in New York City in December 2013 at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gnyba.org/PILOT/wordpress/?p=2596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gnyba.org/PILOT/wordpress/?p=2596&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T09:54:07.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14859" CreationDate="2014-03-04T10:58:04.120" Score="8" ViewCount="41934" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gods, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373556&quot;&gt;Purphoros&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378523&quot;&gt;Mogis&lt;/a&gt;, are not creatures if your devotion is not high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this count when casting them? If, for example, an opponent tries to counter with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=370694&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt; when the player casting a god doesn't have the required devotion, is the god a valid target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, if Purphoros is on the battlefield and the controller tries to cast another god, for which they don't have the required devotion, do opponents suffer the 2 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-03-04T11:16:06.393" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T16:10:34.487" Title="Are gods treated as creatures before they enter the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14857" CreationDate="2014-03-04T12:25:45.960" Score="12" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes. It always has the creature type when on the stack (though that makes it a &lt;em&gt;creature spell&lt;/em&gt; or a &lt;em&gt;creature card&lt;/em&gt;, not simply a &lt;em&gt;creature&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No. ETB abilities check the appearance of the object as it exists on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first question boils down to &amp;quot;When does &lt;em&gt;As long as your devotion to red is less than five, Purphoros isn't a creature&lt;/em&gt; work?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were a characteristic-defining ability, it would function in all zones, including on the stack&lt;sup&gt;[CR 604.3]&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Ultimus&quot;&gt;Mistform Ultimus&lt;/a&gt; has such an ability. But Purphoros's isn't a characteristic-defining ability because it sets the type conditionally&lt;sup&gt;[CR 604.3a]&lt;/sup&gt;. As such, it only works when the card is on the battlefield&lt;sup&gt;[CR 112.6]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Purphoros has the creature type while on the stack regardless of your devotion, and Essence Scatter can target and counter it regardless of your devotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second question boils down to &amp;quot;When does &lt;em&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control&lt;/em&gt; check the object's type?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, it's not casting a creature spell that triggers Purphoros's ability; it's a creature entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know the God is always a creature card on the stack, but it might not be on the battlefield, so the second question boils down to when does the triggered ability inspect the God's types. ETB abilities check the object as it exists immediately after it enters the battlefield to see if the ability triggered&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.6d]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, Purphoros's ability checks if the God entering the battlefield is a creature as it exists on the battlefield, and that depends on the your devotion to the God's color. If it's low, it won't be a creature and your ability won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Referenced Rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3. Some static abilities are characteristic-defining abilities. A characteristic-defining ability conveys information about an object’s characteristics that would normally be found elsewhere on that object (such as in its mana cost, type line, or power/toughness box). Characteristic-defining abilities function in all zones. They also function outside the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3a A static ability is a characteristic-defining ability if it meets the following criteria: (1) It defines an object’s colors, subtypes, power, or toughness; (2) it is printed on the card it affects, it was granted to the token it affects by the effect that created the token, or it was acquired by the object it affects as the result of a copy effect or text-changing effect; (3) it does not directly affect the characteristics of any other objects; (4) it is not an ability that an object grants to itself; and (5) it does not set the values of such characteristics only if certain conditions are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The exceptions are all common sense, such that an ability that requires you to discard a card to activate only function in your hand.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The exceptions are leaves-the-battlefield and similar abilities. Again, stuff that's obvious without knowing the rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T16:10:34.487" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T16:10:34.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14851" CreationDate="2014-03-04T18:30:07.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bang.cz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&amp;amp;t=488#wrap&quot;&gt;post by the designer&lt;/a&gt; of Bang!, Emiliano Sciarra:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... you cannot play Bang! on yourself ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this official ruling from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang_wild_west_show/bang_wild_west_show_faq_eng.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ for the Wild West Show expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The action you describe must be possible for the player&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By combination of these two rulings, Dorothy Rage cannot force a player to play a self-targeting &quot;Bang!&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T18:30:07.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-04T18:34:22.740" Score="11" ViewCount="6624" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/12368/1760&quot;&gt;a planeswalker than has been turned into a creature&lt;/a&gt; (not a planeswalker that turns itself into a creature with &quot;prevent all damage&quot; like Gideon) takes Infect damage, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that Infect damage is applied as -1/-1 counters, and I know that the planeswalker will have both damaged marked on it, as well as have it's loyalty reduced, but &lt;strong&gt;what I'm unsure of is if the -1/-1 counters &lt;em&gt;further&lt;/em&gt; reduce the loyalty or if they only impact the power / toughness.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a follow-on, do the -1/-1 counters stay on the planeswalker when it is no longer a creature? And if so, could this be used to prevent a Gideon from using it's &quot;become a creature&quot; ability (or at least kill it if it does)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1760" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T10:35:40.633" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T20:07:28.493" Title="If a creature planeswalker is dealt damage by a creature with infect, what happens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14862" CreationDate="2014-03-04T19:07:21.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the planeswalker is a creature, it will have 3 relevant characteristics: power, toughness, and loyalty. When that creature planeswalker takes infect damage, it will lose that many loyalty counters and it will gain that many -1/-1 counters. The -1/-1 counters &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; affect power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, permanents do not lose any counters when they change type. This does mean that if a planeswalker becomes a creature, and it has enough -1/-1 counters that its toughness is 0, it will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-03-23T10:37:45.373" LastActivityDate="2020-03-23T10:37:45.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14862" CreationDate="2014-03-04T19:07:29.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;-1/-1 counters reduce power/toughness (or remove +1/+1 counters if there are any present). They do not affect loyalty counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, any kind of counter can exist on any kind of permanent (or even a spell, such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Storm&quot;&gt;Lightning Storm&lt;/a&gt;). -1/-1 counters on a planeswalker simply don't &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; anything under normal circumstances -- that is, until the planeswalker becomes a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T19:07:29.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14862" CreationDate="2014-03-04T19:07:51.780" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loyalty counters are different and separate from the -1/-1 counters produced by infect. -1/-1 counters affect power and toughness only. If an infected Planeswalker reverts to a non-creature, the -1/-1 counters will have no effect. They will remain until otherwise removed, or until the permanent changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Non-creature Planeswalker vs Infect Damage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose loyalty equal to the infect damage per rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/Damage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;119.3c&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not gain infect counters. Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/Damage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;119.3d&lt;/a&gt; only applies to creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creature Planeswalker vs Infect Damage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lose loyalty equal to the infect damage per rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/Damage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;119.3c&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain -1/-1 counters equal to the infect damage per rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/Damage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;119.3d&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGideon%2c%20Champion%20of%20Justice%5d&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt; has five loyalty counters and five -1/-1 counters. If he resolves his zero ability to become a creature, Gideon will die the next time state-based actions are checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers are not subject to the same state-based action where a player with ten poison counters automatically loses the game. Planeswalkers cannot gain poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-24T20:07:28.493" LastActivityDate="2020-06-24T20:07:28.493" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14862" CreationDate="2014-03-04T19:20:27.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's both a creature and a planeswalker, it would gain -1/-1 counters and lose loyalty counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3c Damage dealt to a planeswalker causes that many loyalty counters to be removed from that planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3d Damage dealt to a creature by a source with wither and/or infect causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The removal of loyalty counters is not conditional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a follow-on, do the -1/-1 counters stay on the planeswalker when it is no longer a creature?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Counters will cease to exist if the object changes zone&lt;sup&gt;[CR 121.2]&lt;/sup&gt;. Otherwise, they stay until something explicitly removes them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;And if so, could this be used to prevent a Gideon from using it's &amp;quot;become a creature&amp;quot; ability (or at least kill it if it does)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. If he had -1/-1 counters equaling his toughness, he'd die virtually immediately after transforming into a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Gideon, Champion of Justice's indestructibility would not help, since the State-Based action in question kills rather than destroys&lt;sup&gt;[CR 704.5f]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Gideon Jura's ability to prevent damage prevents the gain of -1/-1 counters from infect damage. You'd have to turn him into a creature another way or give him the -1/-1 counters some other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-04T21:14:56.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14869" CreationDate="2014-03-04T20:39:45.807" Score="3" ViewCount="2754" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a game from likely the 70's or 80's. A board game similar to Mouse Trap in that, you set up a bunch of precarious pieces, and at the end the sequence is triggered and all the pieces jump or spin or do whatever they do. Except this game involved a circus I think. I recall 2 circus performers spinning around a pole, opposite each other, from the top downward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a fleeting memory, and has been bugging me for years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7071" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T20:06:50.367" Title="Please help identifying board game similar to Mouse Trap" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14868" CreationDate="2014-03-04T21:16:07.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/739495/finding-old-mousetrap-like-game-about-a-circus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on board game geek a reference to Flying Finnegan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a circus game like mouse trap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-03-05T20:06:50.367" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T20:06:50.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14871" CreationDate="2014-03-05T01:40:40.727" Score="5" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Champion%20of%20the%20Parish&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt; gains +1/+1 &amp;quot;Whenever a another human enters the battlefield under your control&amp;quot;. If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nyxborn%20Shieldmate&quot;&gt;Nyxborn Shieldmate&lt;/a&gt; as a bestow does it count toward this effect? I know it does not count as a creature but it is still a human is it not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:40:57.987" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:40:57.987" Title="Do bestow count toward cards that say &quot;when [sub-type] enters on the battlefield&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14870" CreationDate="2014-03-05T02:58:49.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the definition of &quot;Bestow&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;702.102a&lt;/a&gt;), the card will enter as an Aura spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Bestow [cost]&quot; means &quot;You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.&quot; and &quot;If you chose to pay this spell’s bestow cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game will remove the &lt;code&gt;Creature&lt;/code&gt; type from the card. Since &lt;code&gt;Human&lt;/code&gt; is a subtype of &lt;code&gt;Creature&lt;/code&gt; and not a subtype of &lt;code&gt;Aura&lt;/code&gt;, the card loses the &lt;code&gt;Human&lt;/code&gt; subtype per &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;205.1a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;If an object's card type is removed, the subtypes correlated with that card type will remain if they are also the subtypes of a card type the object currently has; otherwise, they are also removed for the entire time the object's card type is removed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability won't trigger since the card does not have the subtype &lt;code&gt;Human&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5337" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-03-06T15:37:30.207" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T15:37:30.207" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14880" CreationDate="2014-03-05T14:00:52.953" Score="4" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought Neuroshima Hex and read the rulebook. It mentions just using the hexes in the centre of the board, but that the other spaces around the outside are included incase a scenario is played. What are these scenarios? And will I need to use the bigger board in a 3 or 4 player game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T14:00:44.093" Title="When do I play with the full board in Neuroshima Hex?" Tags="|neuroshima-hex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33812" CreationDate="2014-03-05T14:14:54.547" Score="13" ViewCount="26214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Love letter was a surprise hit in my group. Everybody enjoys the fast pace and player interaction. It's just a shame that it only allows up to 4 players, because it seems like it would be better for say six players. I would have no problem buying a second copy of the game to shuffle the two decks of cards together, but I'm wondering if it would work in theory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody got any suggestions as to how to try and increase the player limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T11:31:43.787" Title="How to expand Love Letter to accomodate more players?" Tags="|house-rules|love-letter|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2014-03-05T14:27:53.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/forum/1290963/love-letter/variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Variant subforum&quot;&gt;Variant&lt;/a&gt; subforum on BGG, there are quite a few ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1094976/2-8-players-queen-jester&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1094976/2-8-players-queen-jester&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-03-05T14:27:53.377" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-06T06:50:35.083" Score="2" ViewCount="578" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm putting together a theme deck and I've already selected the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nephalia Smuggler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sylvan Yeti&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black Knight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brass Man&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several candidate cards for Leia or Luke or even light sabers, but I'm unfamiliar with the newer sets, and can't think of anything that even remotely resembles R2D2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there such a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7087" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T11:11:17.293" Title="Is there a MTG card similar (either in image or name) to R2D2 for a Star Wars theme deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-03-07T20:01:43.253" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14876" CreationDate="2014-03-06T07:23:08.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindless%20Automaton&quot;&gt;Mindless Automaton&lt;/a&gt; looks a bit like R2D2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T07:23:08.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14878" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-06T09:13:57.233" Score="0" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just recently found out about www.bookdepository.com and that they sell Fantasy Flight's games with very reasonable prices and ship the goods freely all over the globe. Since I live in the country that has very limited number of shops where you can buy board games and they tend to be very pricey (almost double the retail price in USA for example) - do you guys know any other online places like Book Depository which has nice deals and possibly free shipping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7088" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T15:45:36.107" Title="Best places to buy board games online?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-03-06T22:50:45.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14873" CreationDate="2014-03-06T14:00:44.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Neuroshima_Hex_3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Neuroshima Hex 3.0 rules (pdf)&lt;/a&gt;, I see the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NmReL.png&quot; alt=&quot;Neurosihma Hex board layout&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the extra hexes are for when there are five to six people playing. The rules suggest that if there are four people playing, you might decide to use the expanded board as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule book doesn't mention scenarios. However, I looked up one of the expansions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Neuroshima_Hex_Babel13.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Neuroshima Hex: Babel 13 (pdf)&lt;/a&gt;, and it mentions scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Neuroshima Hex scenario is a single game which applies additional conditions to the basic rules of the game. These can include Terrain, unequal distribution of forces, conditional events, etc. Campaigns for Neuroshima Hex consist of a series of interrelated scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would imply that a scenario might make use of the extra hexes for, perhaps, unequal distribution of forces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T14:00:44.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14878" CreationDate="2014-03-06T15:45:36.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Amazon has a lot but look through boardgamegeek.com marketplace plus eBay and coolstuffinc. Try googling the game, normally there is a result that you can purchase it from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6735" LastActivityDate="2014-03-06T15:45:36.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14886" CreationDate="2014-03-07T01:51:17.573" Score="3" ViewCount="3299" Body="&lt;p&gt;My shuffling skills leave a lot to be desired, in particular when it comes to small form cards, such as those found in Arkham Horror and number of other Fantasy flight games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some effective techniques at shuffling these small cards without damaging/bending them? If I've sleeved the cards, I just push equal piles of them together and it seems to work, but not all my games have been sleeved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T16:08:26.403" Title="Effective way of shuffling small form cards" Tags="|playing-cards|shuffling|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14882" CreationDate="2014-03-07T02:31:11.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the smaller stacks, any not-riffle shuffle like overhand shuffling works well.  But I find that many of the Arkham Horror decks get too big to shuffle easily with any normal method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the big decks, you can shuffle a little bit by hand (overhand shuffle or whatever you're familiar with), then spread them around in the box lid, shake them around, then shake them into the corner to help collect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not pretty, and to get them truly randomized you do need the bit of hand shuffling to make sure what's on the bottom doesn't just stay on the bottom, but it works well enough, and Arkham Horror doesn't really need perfect randomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-03-07T23:36:12.803" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T23:36:12.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14884" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-07T03:26:30.477" Score="5" ViewCount="1109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet to find a chess AI that plays like a human opponent at an amateur level. Most AIs seem to play a tactically perfect game but throwing in a really bad move every now and then.  Has anyone undertaken (and had any success with) the project of writing a chess computer that plays like a human?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make the question precise, &lt;strong&gt;is there a chess-bot that would pass a turing test&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7031" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-12-29T06:44:17.463" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T06:44:17.463" Title="Is there a human-like chess AI?" Tags="|chess|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-03-10T21:05:09.407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14884" CreationDate="2014-03-07T04:06:32.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chess Master&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; series is arguably capable of doing this.  It creates personalities that are defined by their personal &lt;em&gt;valuation&lt;/em&gt; of the various pieces.  Starting with the standard, rough approximations that are typically used (Queen = 8 points, Rook = 5 points, Bishop = 3 points, etc...), each AI personality has these numbers adjusted, often subtly (down to small fractions, such as Queen = 8.08 points, or Rook = 4.73 points).  These different weights lead to different (and often non-optimal play) where moves are not-necessarily &quot;bad&quot; per-se, but rather simply valued in a way that a master would not value them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T04:06:32.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14882" CreationDate="2014-03-07T07:07:32.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I almost always use Overhand shuffling when dealing with board game cards.&#xA;Video shows it on poker cards but it can be applied to smaller formats as well.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZByHu_NUJs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZByHu_NUJs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T07:07:32.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14882" CreationDate="2014-03-07T17:46:16.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use corner riffle on everything from the tiny item cards from Fantasy Flight games (Elder Sign, Relic) to larger tarot-sized cards. It even works great if you have sleeves on your cards, since it avoids crunching the open end of the sleeve into another card. Video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfcIRMtd8fg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2014-03-07T17:46:16.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14891" CreationDate="2014-03-07T23:40:02.217" Score="8" ViewCount="2384" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9P1CX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Counterflux&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uNodX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pyromancer Ascension&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/draw-gau-pro-tour-born-of-the-gods-12th/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;his write-up of Pro Tour BTG in Valencia&lt;/a&gt;, pro player Gaudenis Vidugiris described this game, the last one he played to get to the top 16 (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Round 14 I battled against RWU Twin. Both games I got active Ascensions reasonably quickly and killed him.  Though in the second game he had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrafdigger%27s%5d%2b%5bCage%5d&quot;&gt;Grafdigger&amp;#39;s Cage&lt;/a&gt; on turn one which slowed me down enough that I couldn’t kill him for a while and even gave him a draw phase where a Splinter Twin would have been lethal.  I actually got &lt;strong&gt;two active [&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyromancer%20Ascension%5d&quot;&gt;Pyromancer Ascension&lt;/a&gt;s]&lt;/strong&gt; rather quickly, but couldn't find a blue card to copy for a turn or two.  Eventually, I found one which dug me into an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEchoing%20Truth%5d&quot;&gt;Echoing Truth&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;after I explained to my opponent why his overloaded &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterflux%5d&quot;&gt;Counterflux&lt;/a&gt; couldn't counter all of the Echoing Truth copies he conceded&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the rules trick here? How come an overloaded Counterflux can't counter several copies of Echoing Truth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T01:20:00.723" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T04:21:01.037" Title="Why can't an overloaded Counterflux beat Pyromancer Ascension?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14890" CreationDate="2014-03-08T00:35:53.623" Score="11" ViewCount="40477" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378491&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play with the top card of your library revealed.&#xA;  You may play the top card of your library if it's a land card.&#xA;  Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, you gain 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean if the top cards in my deck are a series of land cards they will all be played as they are revealed or is it still limited by the one land per turn rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T17:53:19.750" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:18:24.717" Title="Does Courser of the Kruphix's ability play multiple land cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14889" CreationDate="2014-03-08T00:58:07.667" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You play the land normally, as if it were in your hand, with all the same restrictions. You are still limited by the 1 land per turn rule. In order for a card to let you play more than 1 land, it would need to say &quot;you may play additional lands&quot;, or it could say &quot;you may put it onto the battlefield&quot; instead of saying &quot;play.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the rulings on Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/1/2014   Playing a land with the second ability counts as your land play for the turn. If you play a land from your hand during your turn, you won’t be able to play an additional land from the top of your library unless another effect allows you to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course, the timing restrictions still apply too: you still have to play the land at a normal time, during your main phase when you have priority with an empty stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-04-19T17:42:25.887" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T17:42:25.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14888" CreationDate="2014-03-08T01:54:11.257" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counterflux works against a singleton Pyromancer Ascension. With multiple active Ascensions, the copied spells don't go on the stack all at once, so Counterflux can't hit all of them.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the answer in the comments section of that article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play echoing truth target something, both ascensions trigger.&#xA;First ascension trigger resolves, puts an echoing truth copy on top of the stack, so this copy will resolve before the other ascension trigger resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to show the stack, since it's hard to think about from the wording:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, cast Echoing Truth. Both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyromancer%20Ascension&quot;&gt;Pyromancer Ascension&lt;/a&gt;s trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;PA#1 trigger&#xA;PA#2 trigger&#xA;Echoing Truth&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PA#1 trigger resolves. Stack is now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Echoing Truth Copy&#xA;PA#2 trigger&#xA;Echoing Truth&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterflux&quot;&gt;Counterflux&lt;/a&gt; with overload now, it will counter the two spells, but NOT the trigger, because it doesn't counter abilities. So after it resolves, the PA#2 trigger will resolve and create another copy of Echoing Truth. And if you wait until PA#2 trigger resolves, the first Echoing Truth copy has already resolved. No matter what you do, one Echoing Truth will get through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T04:21:01.037" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T04:21:01.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14895" CreationDate="2014-03-08T06:30:06.483" Score="1" ViewCount="4392" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNessian%20Courser%5d&quot;&gt;Nessian Courser&lt;/a&gt; which is enchanted by a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNylea%27s%5d%2b%5bEmmissary%5d&quot;&gt;Nylea&amp;#39;s Emmissary&lt;/a&gt;. I want to cast an Enchantment - Aura on the Nylea's Emissary, for example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOrdeal%20of%20Thassa%5d&quot;&gt;Ordeal of Thassa&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNIhZ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nessian Courser&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/elEwE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Nylea&amp;#39;s Emmissary&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBO5v.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ordeal of Thassa&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps for some reason, I know that the Nessian Courser is going to die at the end of the turn, or I just want to diversify my play so that one burn spell won't cost me two cards. Can I cast an Ordeal of Thassa on the EMISSARY? It is technically a creature, even though it's being used as an enchantment currently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't imagine that the Nessian Courser would get the bonus from the Ordeal of Thassa, but I would expect that the Nylea's Emissary would retain the Ordeal when the Nessian Courser dies and it bounces off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible, and if so is my understanding of how it works correct? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7102" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T00:49:12.197" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:49:12.197" Title="Can I cast Enchant Creature cards on Enchantment Creatures (Bestow) that are on another creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14896" CreationDate="2014-03-08T06:30:50.470" Score="9" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you look at the top card to see if it's an action, and seeing that it is NOT an action, do you discard it or put it back? Surprisingly this is never clarified in the Guilds rule book or on the card!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:03:55.140" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:03:55.140" Title="Dominion Herald's card is not an action, then what?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14892" CreationDate="2014-03-08T07:18:14.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, because whilst Nylea's Emissary is bestowed on another creature, it isn't itself a creature - it's just an &lt;em&gt;Enchantment — Aura&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its &lt;em&gt;card type&lt;/em&gt; might be &lt;em&gt;Enchantment Creature — Cat&lt;/em&gt;, but whilst it's bestowed, that's overwritten to just make it an &lt;em&gt;Enchantment — Aura&lt;/em&gt;. That's thanks to the following two rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Bestow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;702.102a&lt;/a&gt; (the expanded definition of Bestow): [snipped] &amp;quot;Bestow [cost]&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;If you chose to pay this spell's bestow cost, &lt;strong&gt;it becomes an Aura enchantment&lt;/strong&gt; and gains enchant creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Type_line&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;205.1a&lt;/a&gt;: Some effects set an object's card type. In such cases, the new card type(s) replaces any existing card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text I've bolded is something Nylea's reminder text points out, though it doesn't explicitly say how it remains an enchantment in the reminder text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, whilst Nylea's Emissary is a bestowed permanent, it's just an aura and not a creature. Note in particular the &amp;quot;it becomes a creature &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; statement in Bestow's reminder text - that wouldn't make much sense if it was a creature to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, Thassa's emissary says &amp;quot;Enchant creature&amp;quot;. Whenever something simply says &amp;quot;creature&amp;quot;, it means a permanent on the battlefield that's a creature. Nylea's Emissary &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; a creature whilst it's bestowed, so it can't be enchanted. This is flipside of the mechanic that allows a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; to be enchanted with something that says &lt;em&gt;Enchant creature&lt;/em&gt; whilst in creature mode, even if its card type doesn't include &amp;quot;Creature&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T23:04:25.353" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T23:04:25.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14893" CreationDate="2014-03-08T09:04:47.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card is put back on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the original rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Reveal” – when a player reveals a card, he shows a card to all players and&#xA;  then returns it to wherever it came from (unless instructed specifically to&#xA;  put it elsewhere). If the player is required to reveal cards from the top of&#xA;  his Deck, and he does not have enough cards, he shuffles in order to&#xA;  reveal the required number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T09:04:47.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13838" CreationDate="2014-03-08T09:39:34.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question's been unanswered for a while, so I thought I'd take a crack at it.  First up, I should say that I haven't looked at the four player case, just the two player game. The main reason for this is that it makes presenting the data a lot easier. I've put some graphs later, and you can see that they're already hard enough to understand for the two player case!  The methods I've used here could be applied to the four player game, the program would just take longer to finish as there are many more game states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Assumptions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've assumed a two player game, where players can choose to score between 1 and 20 points on their go. I've ignored the letter distribution, and whether it might be hard to score a large number of points in one turn.  I've assumed both players start from 0 points and 5 sanity, and have to get to 100 points without losing all their sanity.  I've accidentally alternated between the use of &quot;sanity&quot; and &quot;lives&quot;, because this game is rather like a computer game where you start with five lives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The script&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote a program to search through all possible game states for two players, and for each determined the best move.  This isn't as hard as it sounds, the positions near the end of the game are easy to find the best move, and then the positions earlier in the game quickly reduce to a position we've already considered.  The source code is &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/xpsQDgdb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output of the program is a lot of lines like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 3 3 13 [3, 0.16920657742104506]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This line means that if it's player 1's turn, and they have 2 sanity left and 3 points, and their opponent has 3 sanity and 13 points, then the best move is to make a word of length 3, which will give them a 17% chance of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The results&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The output of the program is 250000 lines long, which is not very accessible. I've converted this into a couple of graphs.  The first looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qhuld.png&quot; alt=&quot;A graph showing the best word length for player 1 for each of the 250000 game states&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The graph is divided into 25 squares, representing the number of sanity tokens the two players have left. Each square is 100x100 pixels, representing possible pairs of scores. Each pixel represents a possible game state, and the colour shows the length of word player 1 should make to maximise their probability of winning.  Red represents states player 1 should score one point, green represents states player 1 should make 10 points, and blue represents states player 1 should make 20 points.  Colours in between represent values in between, e.g. the states where player 1 should make 3 points is shown by a reddish brown. The black areas are regions where player 2 can force a win, and so it makes no difference what player 1 does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I looked at was the probability of player 1 winning in each state.  This second graph shows that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7Gesx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Probability player 1 wins given they make the best move&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this graph white represents a forced win for player 1, and black represents a forced win for player 2.  The graph is not symmetric, as it's player 1's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some interesting features of the results above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Steps&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Within many of the inner squares there is a step-like pattern. This is clearest in the bottom right square. This is caused by a player being able to force a win. A player can force a win when they have more sanity left than the number of turns it will take them to get to 100.  The bottom right square is where the players have the most lives, and so a forced win is more common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rainbow Stripes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first graph, at the bottom of many of the inner squares, there are 'rainbow stripes'. These represent points at which player 1 can force a win in one turn. If they are on 99 points then they can force a win with a score of 1 (red), if they are on 80 points then they need a score of 20 (blue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Dotty Red/Blue Regions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Towards the left of the first graph are some dotty red/blue regions, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lP0Ij.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dotty Red/Blue Regions&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not completely sure about why these exist. It could be a bug in the program, although I did check it through.  It might be related to the fact that when the probability of winning with different moves is the same, my program picks the largest score. The other thing I noticed was that the best moves, as shown by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.highprogrammer.com/alan/games/unspeakable-words.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link in the question&lt;/a&gt;, are the extreme scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;First Player Advantage&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My program gives the first player probability of winning for the starting position as 53.9%. It advises that the best move is to risk a 20 point score (if you don't lose a sanity then you have a forced win by continuing to make 20 point scores).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-08T09:44:41.427" LastActivityDate="2014-03-08T09:44:41.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14899" CreationDate="2014-03-08T14:47:10.513" Score="5" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rageblood%20shaman&quot;&gt;Rageblood Shaman&lt;/a&gt; that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other Minotaur creatures you control get +1/+1 and have trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I attack with it and multiple other creatures any my opponent blocks it and destroys it do my other creatures still have +1/+1 and trample when their damage is dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T20:09:53.427" Title="If a creature with an effect is destroyed by blocking do other attacking creatures lose the effect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14898" CreationDate="2014-03-08T14:47:10.513" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I might have found my own answer writing this ask but I'll post it so others can comment if I'm wrong and learn if I'm right:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes given rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;510.2&lt;/a&gt; which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If combat damage is done simultaneously then the damage is done to the Rageblood Shaman at the same time that the other creatures affected by the Shaman are dealing damage, thus it has not been destroyed yet and the effect still applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T20:09:53.427" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T20:09:53.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2014-03-08T20:00:23.317" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;as an alternative, you can also get the full set of cards in JSON format - including all sets, languages, printings and detailed information - from this website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgjson.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mtgjson.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This website also provided information to work with its associated site for serving images, found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgimage.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mtgimage.com&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately however, subsequently this website has been shut down by WotC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this websites appears to be designed specifically for developers, with explanations of what each property in the JSON objects means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T12:04:13.500" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:04:13.500" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14901" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T00:17:34.510" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent has one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Timberwatch%20Elf&quot;&gt;Timberwatch Elf&lt;/a&gt; tapped, and I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yamabushi%20Flame&quot;&gt;Yamabushi Flame&lt;/a&gt; on it, can my opponent respond with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wirewood%20Lodge&quot;&gt;Wirewood Lodge&lt;/a&gt; and then use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Timberwatch%20Elf&quot;&gt;Timberwatch Elf&lt;/a&gt; to protect it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7107" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T01:49:10.473" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T02:16:19.307" Title="What would Resolve first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14901" CreationDate="2014-03-09T01:05:44.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Wirewood Lodge's ability will go on the stack. Once it resolves, Timberwatch Elf will be untapped and the active player will get priority. Yamabushi's Flame won't resolve until all players pass priority, so your opponent has a chance to activate Timberwatch Elf's ability targeting itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there will need to be at least one other elf in play in order for the ability to actually save it from the 3 damage Yamabushi's Flame will deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7108" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T01:05:44.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14901" CreationDate="2014-03-09T02:16:19.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The full sequence of events goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Yamabushi's Flame&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Wirewood Lodge&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent taps Timberwatch Elf targeting itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timberwatch Elf gets pumped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yamabushi's Flame deals 3 damage to Timberwatch Elf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, between literally every step there is an implicit &quot;both players pass priority&quot;; you can both still respond at every juncture. So, for instance, if you want to respond to his Wirewood Lodge activation with another burn spell, you could do so and probably kill it (causing all the other steps to be countered for illegal targets)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T02:16:19.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14905" CreationDate="2014-03-09T12:20:30.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1750" Body="&lt;p&gt;The enchantment &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Into+The+Wilds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Into the Wilds&lt;/a&gt; allows a player to look at the top card of their library and play it if it's a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have 4 Into the Wilds in play, can I look at the top card four times, and, in theory, play 4 lands before my draw step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T13:10:01.450" Title="Does Into the Wilds stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14904" CreationDate="2014-03-09T13:02:40.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do stack, but only if you get the right cards on top of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Into the Wilds has a triggered ability. At the beginning of your upkeep, four triggered abilities (one for each copy of Into the Wilds) are put on the stack, and we resolve then one at at time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the first trigger resolving reveals a land card and you put it into play, then the next trigger will reveal a new card. But if it doesn't reveals a land card, then next ones will just reveal the same card again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they stack only so far as they keep revealing lands. As soon as one reveal a non land card, the remaining ones are just redundant (unless of course you somehow change the top card or your library before the next trigger resolves. There are a lot of cards that would allow you to do that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T13:10:01.450" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T13:10:01.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14918" CreationDate="2014-03-09T14:20:00.063" Score="2" ViewCount="1889" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;VIKTOR 2.0:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hosted Power Counter: Do 1 brain damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aggressive Secretary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;trash 1 program for each advancement token&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I advance a card that makes use of Hosted Power Counters in the same way that I can advance an agenda or a card like Aggressive Secretary? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T11:09:44.423" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T11:09:44.423" Title="Are hosted power counters and advancement tokens the same thing?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14882" CreationDate="2014-03-09T16:08:26.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pile shuffle. Deal six, seven or eight (you'll figure out a preference, I always do 7) in front of you in a circle. Move round clockwise putting the top card from your deck onto each pile one at a time and repeat until all the cards are dealt. Gather them up in such a way that piles next to each other in the circle don't go back into the deck next to each other. Cut the deck a couple of times and repeat if you want to be really thorough. If you watch the start of a round in a Magic: The Gathering tournament you will see the majority of players going through this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T16:08:26.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-09T16:41:43.830" Score="3" ViewCount="39315" Body="&lt;p&gt;What types of cards can you play on another players turn / i.e. sorcery or enchantments? Or can only instants/flash be played?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems foolish to us as new players that every card other then land can be sent straight to graveyard by an instant counter spell card but can you cast a sorcery based counter spell card during an opponents turn? this basically tells me that you can simply make a deck of counter spells and the opposing player can't play anything but land.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7112" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T16:51:12.643" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T07:23:30.617" Title="What can be played during an opponents turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2014-03-09T17:07:21.660" Score="14" Body="&lt;h1&gt;When can I cast a spell?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can cast instants and flash spells&lt;/strong&gt; — and activate abilities — &lt;strong&gt;whenever you have priority&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can cast other spells during your main phase, when the stack is empty&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. there are no other spells or ability waiting to resolve) &lt;strong&gt;and you have priority&lt;/strong&gt; (see the next section).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some cards (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnexpected%20Results%5d&quot;&gt;Unexpected Results&lt;/a&gt;) will allow to cast spells at other times too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1a A player may cast an instant spell any time he or she has priority. A player may cast a noninstant spell during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.8a Flash is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on.&#xA;“Flash” means “You may play this card any time you could cast an instant.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as a Sorcery-based counter. It wouldn't work with the rules: you can only counter something when it's on the stack, and you normally can't cast a Sorcery spell when something else is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Priority (the short version)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priority is Magic's system for sequencing plays so that each player has time to think about their actions, when they need it. The most important things you need to know are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player must give the other the opportunity to respond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player always gets the first opportunity to cast something during the phases of his or her own turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once we've begun to resolve a spell or ability, we must follow all the instructions in order before we can do anything else. (For example, if you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDuress%5d&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt; on me, we must do these three things in sequence: I reveal my hand, you pick a card, I discard it. I can't interrupt the game to cast the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; you just picked.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See page 30 in the Basic Rulebook or section 116 in the Comprehensive Rules for a more detailed definition of priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;How do I fight a deck full of counterspells?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counterspells really aren't all-powerful. They're an important part of the game and central to some of the best decks, but, on their own, they really can't carry the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Counterspells are reactive. I can't kill you with a counterspell. All I do is disrupt your plays. I need to do something else to actually capitalize on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can only counter something when it's on the stack. If I draw my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCancel%5d&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; a turn after you cast your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmber%20Swallower%5d&quot;&gt;Ember Swallower&lt;/a&gt;, there's nothing I can do; whereas if I draw a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoom%20Blade%5d&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; at any time, I can use just kill the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In order to counter something you play on your turn, I have to have mana available. That means not casting much stuff on my own turn. I can work around that by building a deck that has a lot of cards I can play at instant speed (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoom%20Blade%5d&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSphinx%27s%5d%2b%5bRevelation%5d&quot;&gt;Sphinx&amp;#39;s Revelation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRestoration%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Restoration Angel&lt;/a&gt;), but there is an opportunity cost there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Counterspells are one-for-one. You play a card, I counter it. We're both down a card. That only keeps us at parity. I'll need something else to pull ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, why do people play counterspells instead of just Doom Blades, then? Counterspells have several things going for them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many counterspells can answer a broad variety of cards. Putting a few counters in my deck gives me the flexible cards that can interact with creatures, enchantments, sorceries, planeswalkers, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Countermagic cancel out death triggers and &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; abilities, and can beat cards with protective abilities like hexproof. Casting Doom Blade on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThragtusk%5d&quot;&gt;Thragtusk&lt;/a&gt; feels a lot like losing; countering one is much nicer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the competitive decks that play counterspells play them as part of a general suite. They rely on countermagic for flexibility against a lot of deck types (such as decks that win without using creatures), but also use cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSupreme%20Verdict%5d&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoom%20Blade%5d&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWear%5d%2b%5bTear%5d&quot;&gt;Wear // Tear&lt;/a&gt; because of the greater efficiency and timing flexibility that they offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Proactive&amp;quot; decks that really want to curve out efficiently are generally better off using discard spells (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDuress%5d&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThoughtseize%5d&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;) rather than counterspells. These allows you to you mess with an opponent's strategy — particularly a combo deck — on your own timetable rather than having to wait for them to cast their most important cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5721/1910&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; discusses some specific tactics you can use if you're having trouble against a deck with significant counterspells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;&amp;quot;But my counterspell &lt;em&gt;says&lt;/em&gt; it's a Sorcery!&amp;quot;&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/P7mIi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mystic Denial&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was an old Magic set called Portal. It was an attempt to create an easier-to-use introductory product for the game. This set didn't include Instants and really didn't talk about the stack. So instead they'd do stuff like print a Sorcery with special timing rules and bend over backwards to avoid using core game terminology like &amp;quot;counter,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;target,&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;spell.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; recommend using Portal to learn Magic. I very, very much don't recommend it.&lt;/strong&gt; The terminology is all messed up, the cards are terribly wordy and unclear, and you really won't learn most of what you need to learn to play actual Magic. It's easiest to learn basic Magic using recent sets and the Basic Rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;), or playing one of the Duels of the Planeswalkers video game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Portal cards are playable in regular Magic, but you sort of have to read between the lines and figure out how the card is &amp;quot;really&amp;quot; supposed to be worded. (In general, when you see a card that's just like, &amp;quot;What the heck!?&amp;quot; you should look it up on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;. Oftentimes you can find updated wording that's clearer than the original card text, as well as rulings that help explain common questions people have about the card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T07:23:30.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2014-03-09T17:07:53.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only spells you're normally given permission to cast on an opponent's turn are instants and spells that can be cast any time you can cast an instant (such as cards with Flash).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that one could make a deck that consists mostly or completely of counterspells. It would be in the category of &quot;control&quot; decks. It could mostly stop an opponent, but it would have several weaknesses that would not make it a viable deck. For example, it can only counter every spell an opponent plays if the counterspell player always has as many counterspells in their hand as the opponent has spells. Remember that counterspells don't affect permanents, so if the opponent gets a single creature on the battlefield, they will slowly grind the control player to zero life with no opposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T16:43:28.537" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:43:28.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2014-03-09T18:26:24.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To your rules question: As others have already said, instants, cards with Flash, and activated abilities of permanents that are already on the table; other cards can generally only be played on your main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To your strategic question: It's a common belief among new players that you can build a deck that &quot;just counters everything,&quot; but it doesn't work in practice. There are two main reasons it may &lt;em&gt;appear&lt;/em&gt; to work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Often new players have decks with a lot of low-impact cards, meaning the savvy counterspell player can only counter cards that &quot;matter&quot; and let everything else through.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Often new players have very inefficient decks. It's not possible to counter everything &lt;em&gt;in general&lt;/em&gt;, but it is very possible to counter everything from a deck that takes too long to get going and never has time to cast all its cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution to both of these problems is a question of deckbuilding that mostly boils down to &quot;build tighter decks.&quot; When it comes to counterstrategies in actual play, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/zm26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and its &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/zm27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;followup&lt;/a&gt; is the best thing I've ever read on the topic. A summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent almost certainly has to tap down eventually. Try to save your absolute best spells for that moment if you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rest of the time, try to cast spells that &quot;matter&quot; but aren't your absolute best spells. Either villain has to spend counters on it, or you get a relevant permanent that threatens to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid getting stuff countered if you can, but sometimes the best way to avoid counters is to just throw your spells out there and hope he didn't draw it yet. He won't always have it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, you could go the route of specifically running cards to beat counters. In the extreme, you could play anti-counter cards like Cavern of Souls or Vexing Shusher. You can run discard; it's often hard for your opponent to counter Thoughtseize or Duress as well as a &quot;real&quot; spell in the same turn. You can run spells with flashback like Call of the Herd so they have to be countered twice. You can run cheap cards with strong continuous effects; if you throw down a Pack Rat before your opponent can counter, you can win without ever casting another spell unless your opponent can stop it, and they can't wait for your next turn or you'll get to make a copy. You can use lands that can kill your opponent without ever being countered like Mutavault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-03-09T18:57:28.497" LastActivityDate="2014-03-09T18:57:28.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T03:58:26.143" Score="4" ViewCount="6010" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner and I played four-handed pinochle. I passed four cards and she got a double run in trump.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the odds of getting a double run in four-handed pinochle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7117" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T05:56:07.170" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:28:30.747" Title="What are the odds of getting a double run in four-handed pinochle?" Tags="|pinochle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14913" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-10T05:16:06.317" Score="6" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;About a year ago I was clicking around on the net and I found someone's personal blog with a description of an invented card game.  It was played with a normal deck of cards.  Face cards were ships, and they could be augmented with shields, phasers, torpedos etc... which were represented by the pip cards.  I've searched for hours and can't find it.  Has anybody seen this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7119" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-07-21T04:26:30.457" LastActivityDate="2018-07-21T04:26:30.457" Title="Space combat game with standard deck of cards" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14914" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-10T06:04:16.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a placeholder tag. New users can use this tag if they ask a question about a game lacking a tag on the site. Users with enough reputation will then remove it, creating an appropriate game tag in its place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There has been several related questions on Meta regarding whether or not something like this should exist (see below). As the keep coming up, I decided to try it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/1141/1749&quot;&gt;Meta Question 1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/992/1749&quot;&gt;Meta Question 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1064/how-to-tag-unlisted-games?rq=1&quot;&gt;Meta Question 3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T06:04:16.253" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T06:04:16.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14915" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-10T06:04:16.253" Score="0" Body="This is a placeholder tag. New users can use this tag if they ask a question about a game lacking a tag on the site. Users with enough reputation will then remove it, creating an appropriate game tag in its place." OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T06:04:16.253" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T06:04:16.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7648" CreationDate="2014-03-10T10:26:58.387" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a high level of experience, you reach a point where you &lt;strong&gt;just know the SETs&lt;/strong&gt;. When you're at that point, it's a matter of recognizing them when they appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Math intermission, skip if you're not interested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since a SET has 4 characteristics that are either all different or all the same, we can build groups of SET variants. &lt;code&gt;4 same&lt;/code&gt; is impossible (because the same card would appear repeatedly). &lt;code&gt;3 same&lt;/code&gt; results in &lt;code&gt;27&lt;/code&gt; possibilities since the order of the all different characteristic doesn't matter. The different characteristic can be either one of the four, so we have a total number of &lt;code&gt;27*4 = 108&lt;/code&gt; distinct &lt;code&gt;3 same&lt;/code&gt; SETs. For &lt;code&gt;2 same&lt;/code&gt;, the different characteristics can combine in &lt;code&gt;6 (3!)&lt;/code&gt; ways, resulting in a total of &lt;code&gt;54&lt;/code&gt;, the distribution of the characteristics into the same/different category can happen in 6 ways, so the total number of distinct &lt;code&gt;2 same&lt;/code&gt; SETs is &lt;code&gt;54*6 = 324&lt;/code&gt;. Next, &lt;code&gt;1 same&lt;/code&gt; sets. Here, the different characteristics combine in &lt;code&gt;3!*3! = 36&lt;/code&gt; ways and each of the four can be the different one, totaling to &lt;code&gt;108*4 = 432&lt;/code&gt; distinct &lt;code&gt;1 same&lt;/code&gt; SETs. Lastly, the &lt;code&gt;all different&lt;/code&gt; SETs combine in &lt;code&gt;3!*3!*3! = 216&lt;/code&gt; ways. This means there is a total of &lt;code&gt;1080&lt;/code&gt; distinct SETs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Another way to calculate it has been suggested by Chris Dodd: There are 81 cards, each of which can be combined with any of the remaining 80 cards to form a pair. For each pair, there is exactly one card that makes it a SET, so the total number of SETs is &lt;code&gt;81*80*1&lt;/code&gt;; this figure includes multiples with reversed order, of which there are 6 (there are 6 ways to arrange 3 cards), so the total number of distinct SETs is &lt;code&gt;81*80/6 = 1080&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Memorizing and recognizing &lt;strong&gt;1080 SETs&lt;/strong&gt; of 3 cards isn't actually that hard if you invest a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality, though, few people have the time and skills to apply this &quot;strategy&quot; (if you can call it a strategy) reliably. Many answers here have already described some approaches, and in the end, it comes down to analyzing the field related to each of the characteristics in a specific order. What order you pick depends on 3 things, sorted from most relevant to least relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your own visual recognition skills.&lt;/strong&gt; Some people find it easier to classify things by color, others easily see numbers, yet others can identify shapes quickly and lastly, some people are fastest in seeing filling. Combinations are also possible, for example, combining number and filling comes down to identifying the amount of ink on the card (or the ratio of color and white background). Your order will generally be from easiest to hardest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The overall distribution of characteristics.&lt;/strong&gt; This is something you can only achieve with experience and training. High level players can identify characteristics with a good distribution with just a glance over the entire field. With enough practice, you can do this for every characteristic at once in just a split second. A &quot;good distribution&quot; is when at least one option is very rare. Examples of good distributions are &lt;code&gt;3 red, 9 green&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;1 one, 7 two, 4 three&lt;/code&gt;. The options with few (3-5) are quickly checked for SETs, the options with very few (0-2) can't even result in a SET. If one option doesn't appear, mixed SETs in that characteristic are impossible. This way, several options can be discarded quickly so you have to search only the relevant options.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The other players' search patterns.&lt;/strong&gt; This one is highly strategic and only applies if you either know some of the players at your table or the game is already running and you're adapting your strategy mid-game. Basically, based on the SETs they found and the time they took to do so, you can deduce the search pattern they use. Then you either copy that pattern, hoping to be slightly faster and denying them their SETs; or you adapt an entirely different pattern, hoping to get lucky and be dealt more SETs that fit your pattern than ones that fit theirs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last important point is what you do &lt;strong&gt;when new cards appear&lt;/strong&gt; (either because a SET has been found or everyone agreed there are none). In that case, it's important to have an overview of important missing cards. If one specific card would complete several SETs, chances are many are just waiting for it to appear. You will also often come across &quot;nearly-SETs&quot; where one card needs to be only slightly different (for example, &lt;code&gt;1 1 1, red green purple, empty empty solid, hash hash hash&lt;/code&gt;). Keeping them in mind and watching out for such cards to appear will give you an edge over those who just start searching when the new cards hit the field. Similarly, memorizing the &lt;strong&gt;cards that are gone already&lt;/strong&gt; will help you get away from dead ends that can't be completed any more. If you know, at least roughly, which cards are still in the deck and which are gone, you can loosely &lt;strong&gt;predict the next cards&lt;/strong&gt; and be prepared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Personal practical experience&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Personal theoretical analysis of the game and its mechanics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Observations of high level players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conversations with the Champion and Runner-up of the German Nationals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T08:43:59.533" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T08:43:59.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14906" CreationDate="2014-03-10T11:22:51.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  An advancement counter is completely different then a power token or a virus token.  This is why cards specifically list power or advancement counters when they talk about something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, advancement counters are movable, but power counters and virus counters are usually used more as placeholder counters rather then a tangible thing in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T11:22:51.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14906" CreationDate="2014-03-10T11:28:48.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Power counters don't (currently) interact with anything other than the card that placed them. A card will define when to place a power counter, and the effects of having them on itself. EG Draco lets you pay to place power counters when it's rezzed, and they boost the strength. The most complicated one currently is Personal Workshop which places power counters on hosted cards, but these cards are inactive while on the workshop, and so the power counters are only referenced by the personal workshop which placed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you cannot interchange advancement and power counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advancement and Virus counters are two specific types of counters which a range of cards let you place/remove/move. You can use Trick of Light or Shipment from SanSan to place or move advancement counters. The corp can clear all the virus counters, the runner can play Surge! to place extra virus counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T11:42:50.870" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T11:42:50.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14920" CreationDate="2014-03-10T13:23:53.367" Score="1" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have more than one copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/lw/en/72.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merrow Commerce&lt;/a&gt; in play, they both trigger during my end step. Can I take actions after the first one resolves, but before the second one does? I'm thinking of something like tapping my &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/lw/en/87.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silvergill Douser&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pc/en/56.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Merfolk Thaumaturgist&lt;/a&gt; to pick off an opponent's creatures, then having them untap again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T18:40:00.960" Title="How do multiple copies of Merrow Commerce interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14919" CreationDate="2014-03-10T13:52:37.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well yes you can. These are triggered abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple triggers are put on the stack, and after one resolves, you get priority as the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T13:52:37.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14921" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14951" CreationDate="2014-03-10T18:25:56.747" Score="8" ViewCount="1892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a stash of the original Netrunner game. If I were to play a game against someone with the Android:Netrunner game, what changes/adjustments would we need to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T08:02:15.587" Title="How compatible are the two versions of Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|netrunner-ccg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2014-03-10T18:47:41.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You asked how I would solve this... well I wrote an app for that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have always had the same problem - especially if there is any drinking going on... We find that playing with only 3 people is not so bad but 4 and above the games seem to get exponentially longer.  So I wrote an app I call 'Time for Settlers' which does a couple things to help speed up the game - and it really has helped us get more games into an evening.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) It provides a turn timer - a time limit for each player to do whatever they are going to do in their turn.  You run out of time - your turn is over - with or without a completed trade.  This really helps people focus on what they need and get their trades done quickly at the beginning of each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) It rolls the dice for you.  Seems simple but this does actually help keep things going, and the app offers multiple rolling styles to vary the degree of randomness and/or roll distribution during a game.  A more even distribution can actually speed up a game too since most people place their settlements and cities where they have the highest odds - but sometimes regular dice do strange (random) things and roll a bunch of 2s, 3,s 12,s etc. meaning that less resources are paid out and the game drags.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Together, the timer and the dice rolling really can speed up a game. And as an added bonus the games tend to be more fun with the added pressure of time.  It has worked really well for us - it could work for you too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its free on iOS and Android:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.phelpsonline.apps.timeforsettlers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Play Store&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/time-for-settlers/id783291298?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Apple App Store&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, +1 for the answer provided by shrlck - we call this Tournament start and we &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; play this way now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7123" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T18:47:41.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14923" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-10T19:19:21.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Killer Bunnies is a card game for 2-8 players.  Players take turns attacking their opponent's bunnies using a variety of creative weapons while at the same time attempting to keep their own bunnies alive.  Carrot cards are collected throughout the game.  When the last carrot is taken, the game ends and all carrot cards are revealed.  One of them is &quot;The Magic Carrot&quot;.  Whoever is holding it wins the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7023" LastEditorUserId="7023" LastEditDate="2014-03-10T21:03:56.217" LastActivityDate="2014-03-10T21:03:56.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14924" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-10T19:19:21.037" Score="0" Body="A lighthearted card game where players collect carrots and attempt to kill their opponent's bunnies using outrageous methods." OwnerUserId="7023" LastEditorUserId="25785" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T23:20:56.557" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T23:20:56.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14926" CreationDate="2014-03-11T02:13:41.560" Score="2" ViewCount="591" Body="&lt;p&gt;May a player have more than 5 cards in his hand at any time? This may happen when a card allows you to draw cards instead of attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T13:29:17.413" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T13:29:17.413" Title="Is there a limit to a player's hand size in Summoner Wars?" Tags="|summoner-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14925" CreationDate="2014-03-11T03:59:00.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no hand limit size listed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/SW_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, but remember that you will not draw cards at the start of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Phase 1: Draw&lt;/strong&gt; - Draw cards until you have 5 cards in your hand (Example: if you start your turn with 3 cards in your hand you will draw 2 cards). If your Draw Pile is empty, you can no longer draw cards and must finish the game with the remaining cards on the Battlefield (including the Magic Pile) and in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T03:59:00.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14929" CreationDate="2014-03-11T10:21:00.400" Score="11" ViewCount="24682" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a situation occur in a game where my opponent had a creature with first strike, and I had one that didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They attacked and I blocked, first strike creature did it's damage which didn't kill my creature, then before I was to apply damage my opponent tried to cast an instant which would have killed my creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the instant hadn't resolved I'd have killed my opponent's creature, but because we ruled that it did resolve before my creature did combat damage my creature died and her creature lived to fight another round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T18:10:26.177" Title="Can you cast an instant damage spell between first strike and normal damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14927" CreationDate="2014-03-11T11:00:41.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is legal. Both players get priority between the first strike damage step and the regular damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T11:00:41.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14927" CreationDate="2014-03-11T11:03:23.733" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that you can cast instants and trigger abilities that run at instant speed between first strike and normal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.5. If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. &lt;strong&gt;After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step.&lt;/strong&gt; The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 510.4 and the highlighted portion of 510.5 shows that the combat damage step begins anew, and just before this, the active player gets priority. So therefore instants can be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T11:03:23.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14927" CreationDate="2014-03-11T15:31:33.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found a clear explanation on the priority passing during combat steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/287705-responding-to-first-strike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/287705-responding-to-first-strike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During Combat there are a number of Turn Based Actions which do not use the stack, the majority of these take place at the beginning of the appropriate step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Combat Phase unfolds as such:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning Combat Step - Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers Step - Attackers are declared THEN players get Priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers Step - Blockers are declared THEN players get Priority (last chance to play Giant Growth to save your Goblins)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Strike Combat Damage Step(if applicable) - Combat Damage is assigned and Dealt THEN players get Priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage Step - Combat Damage is assigned and Dealt THEN players get Priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat Step - Players get Priority THEN creatures are removed from combat. (this is the one step where the turn based action is at the end instead of the beginning)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7128" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T18:10:26.177" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14728" CreationDate="2014-03-11T15:55:52.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it! It's name is &quot;Ghost Hunters!&quot; by Brian Lee and it's not a board game but a book, published for the first time in UK by Tango Books in 1998.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ISBN (for Italian edition) is 88-450-7851-5, and you can see it online at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lafeltrinelli.it/products/9788845107351/Gioca_con_gli_acchiappafantasmi/Lee_Brian.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.lafeltrinelli.it/products/9788845107351/Gioca_con_gli_acchiappafantasmi/Lee_Brian.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6959" LastEditorUserId="6959" LastEditDate="2014-03-16T11:38:55.997" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T11:38:55.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14912" CreationDate="2014-03-11T17:06:17.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the probability being asked for, this is somewhere between one in a million, and one in six hundred hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinochle has a deck with 48 cards, consisting of two each of six ranks (A, T, K, Q, J, 9) in four suits. The deck is dealt exhaustively between the four players, so each is dealt a hand of twelve cards. A double run consists of ten specific cards: two lots of the ace, ten, king, queen and jack of trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we can now calculate the chance of being dealt a double run. There are 48C12 possible hands (where nCr is the notation for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combination#Number_of_k-combinations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;choose function&lt;/a&gt;). Ten of the cards are fixed as part of the double run, but the other two can be any of the remaining 38 cards. So there are (10C10)*(38C2) possible hands that contain a double run (in trumps), which makes the probability of being dealt a double run:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(10C10)*(38C2) / (48C12)&#xA;= 1*703 / 69,668,534,468&#xA;~ 1 / 100,000,000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some versions of pinochle, passing cards from the partner to the winning bidder is allowed. In the question four cards are passed, so we can look at the chance of getting 10 specific cards in a 16 card hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;(10C10)*(38C6) / (48C16)&#xA;= 1*2760681 / 2,254,848,913,647&#xA;~ 1 / 1,000,000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't give a true reflection of the odds though, as it's fairly normal for players to pass their best cards to their bid-winning partner, as it will help melding points. Let's assume that if the partner has up to four trumps then they'll pass them all across. The chance of getting a double run is now the sum of the chances of a 6-4 split, a 7-3 split, an 8-2 split, a 9-1 split and a 10-0 split. That is, the sum over the number of passed cards p, of the probabilities of the player getting (10-p) of the 10 cards and the partner getting the remaining p:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Sum( (10C(10-p))*(38C(12-(10-p)))/(48C12) * (pCp)*((38-(12-(10-p)))C(12-p))/((48-12)C12) ) over p in {0,1,2,3,4}&#xA;= Sum( (10C(10-p))*(38C(2+p))/(48C12) * ((36-p)C(12-p))/(36C12) ) over p in {0,1,2,3,4}&#xA;~ 1/10,000&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far I've assumed that the trump suit is random, but since the player won the contract, they actually got to choose the trump suit. Most of the time a player will choose the suit they have most of as trumps (especially if they have 6 of them), so roughly speaking the chance of a double run now becomes 1/2500.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this is for a particular player, but it might be fair to say that if any player in the round got a double run then the same question would have been asked on this site. Since there are four players we can roughly multiply the probability by four to get 1/600. (We've actually done a bit of 'double counting' here, but it doesn't affect the result very much. E.g. We've considered the rare case where each player receives all of a single suit four times).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the probability being asked for could be as low as 1/1,000,000 or as high as 1/600, depending on how the question is interpreted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T17:06:17.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14942" CreationDate="2014-03-11T18:56:49.290" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing an online game of Agricola right now and we've just reached Round 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 3-room Wooden Hut with 4 Family Members in it, and a Reed Hut containing my fifth token. I have also played the Church Warden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I'd quite like to convert my Reed Hut person into a Family Member for 3 extra points this turn, but what is the interaction with the Church Warden?  I see at least three possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) I can use the Reed Hut person to carry out a Family Growth action at any time, at which point he converts to a newborn.  Would get +3 VP from the Church Warden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) I can only use the Reed Hut person to carry out a Family Growth as my fifth action of the turn (in the unlikely event that Family Growth Without Room is still available then!), at which point he converts to newborn.  Would get +3 VP from the Church Warden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3) I can use a Family Member to carry out Family Growth at any time but this will immediately wipe out my Reed Hut person.  I won't get VP from the Church Warden and all I will have achieved is saving myself 1 Food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anyone confident enough to offer a definitive ruling for this corner case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="436" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T21:00:53.780" Title="Church Warden vs Reed Hut in Round 14" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14938" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:23:23.240" Score="6" ViewCount="1634" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I target my own &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terastodon&quot;&gt;Terastodon&lt;/a&gt; will the effect still take place and give me a 3/3 elephant token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this question because there is a ruling on Terastodon that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a targeted permanent has indestructible or regenerates, its controller won't get an Elephant token for it. Similarly, if the targeted permanent is destroyed but a replacement effect moves it to a different zone instead of its owner's graveyard, its controller won't get an Elephant token for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I suppose the question is, does the effect of Rancor returning to its controller's hand count as a replacement effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6365" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T19:26:10.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:38:54.583" Title="If I target my own Rancor with a Terastodon will the effect still take place and give me a 3/3 elephant token?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14936" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:28:58.243" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terastodon gives you an elephant &quot;for each permanent put into a graveyard this way&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a permanent regenerates, it doesn't get destroyed, so it doesn't go to the graveyard, so it doesn't result in an elephant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.12a [...] “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt; remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.” &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rancor must go to the graveyard before its ability triggers to eventually send Rancor back to your hand, so you still get the elephant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T19:38:54.583" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:38:54.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14936" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:29:37.743" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you will still get the 3/3 Elephant token when you destroy your Rancor with your Terastodon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rancor's ability is not a replacement effect, it is a triggered ability. The ability triggers and moves Rancor to your hand &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; it has already moved to the graveyard. The relevant rule is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Ability&quot;&gt;112.3c&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. &lt;strong&gt;They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and include (and usually begin with) the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority&lt;/strong&gt; and stays there until it's countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 603, &quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when your Terastodon's ability resolves targeting Rancor, a few things happen. First, your Rancor is destroyed (and moved to the graveyard) and you get an Elephant token. Then, when the ability has finished resolving, you get priority and Rancor's third ability is put on the stack. Finally, Rancor's ability resolves and it moves from the graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-03-11T19:35:08.360" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T19:35:08.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14939" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-11T19:42:23.120" Score="2" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the point of using 3-point coins in a base-ten coin game? There are 5s and 10s, and you can almost never exchange the two for any multiples of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7133" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T21:11:25.640" Title="Small World: Why does it use 3-point coins?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T16:35:34.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14935" CreationDate="2014-03-11T21:00:53.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/34558/the-unofficial-agricola-compendium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unofficial Agricola Compendium&lt;/a&gt; doesn't mention this combination explicitly, but I think the answer is option 3 from your list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 contradicts clarification B from the Reed Hut section, and both options 1 and 2 are contradicted by clarification E:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reed Hut&lt;/strong&gt; (K138)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  B. The occupant of the Reed Hut is placed after your family members [&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.lookout-games.de/index.php?topic=867.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;]...&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  E. You can move this person into your home with a family growth action later. That family growth action must be taken by another family member. [&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.lookout-games.de/index.php?topic=867.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ref&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both reference links are from the compendium, but seem to be broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, here's the ruling about newborns and the Church Warden in round 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Church Warden&lt;/strong&gt; (I227)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;  B. A player who only gets a 5th family member in round 14 does not receive the bonus points, unless the new family member takes an action that round because of the Adoptive Parents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one thing I couldn't find was whether you'd get Church Warden points by taking an action with the Reed Hut person.  I would say that you can, based on the card's wording, as I think that although the Reed Hut person is not a 'family member', they are a 'person':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, any player who performed actions with at least 5 people in round 14 receives 3 bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-03-11T21:00:53.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14944" CreationDate="2014-03-12T00:23:05.607" Score="4" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;The King in Yellow&quot; expansion, there is an encounter card for the library that results in all monsters of a certain type, including those in the outskirts, relocating to the investigators location. The card then states that you 'must immediately evade or defeat them'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the investigator succesfully evades them all or gets reduced to 0 stamina/sanity, do the monsters all remain in that location even though the monster limit is most likely exceeded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T01:50:58.050" Title="Exceeding the monster limit due to an encounter" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14943" CreationDate="2014-03-12T01:50:58.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there is a card listed in the FAQ that does exactly this but in the graveyard, I don't remember one from the library, but the ruling would be transferable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: A Graveyard encounter summons &amp;quot;all Undead monsters in Arkham, the Outskirts, and the Sky&amp;quot; to the Graveyard. If this would bring the number of monsters in Arkham above the monster limit, which ones are sent to the Outskirts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Any monsters that were in the Outskirts when this encounter was drawn are the first to be returned to the Outskirts if the monster limit is exceeded. In the event that not all monsters that came from the Outskirts need to be returned there, the first player decides which monster tokens are placed back in the Outskirts. If more monsters still need to be moved to the Outskirts, move the monsters that came from other towns (Dunwich, Kingsport, or  Innsmouth) to the Outskirts until the number of monsters in Arkham is again at the monster limit. In the event that not all monsters that came from another town need to be returned there, the first player decides which of those monster tokens are moved to the Outskirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T01:50:58.050" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14945" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-12T04:11:53.473" Score="4" ViewCount="5002" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to play Diplomacy, and have the old Avalon Hill version of the game which, unfortunately, comes with plastic pieces (stars and anchors). It also lacks indicators of who controls which supply centers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the original wooden pieces, seen here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ENRSq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fleets are clearly fleets, armies are clearly armies, and supply centers are demarcated by the colored circles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good example are these pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F8FMR.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What works as a viable replacement for these parts? Where can I find them? I've seen around suggestions to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make them myself - this is time-consuming, and (for me) generally doesn't work out well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use wooden beads - while this works, it doesn't really look professional&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purchase parts sets - these are typically expensive; I haven't found anything that wouldn't require a large investment to complete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the original wooden Risk parts - these lack enough fleets required to run a game, as well as lack supply center indicators. They're also expensive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for better options. Any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7139" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T23:56:56.267" Title="Where can I find wooden pieces (or alternates) for Diplomacy?" Tags="|diplomacy|components|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14939" CreationDate="2014-03-12T09:10:21.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the simplest answer is to allow players to hide their score better. If you only had 1s, 5s and 10s, you'd just have to remember how many 5s and 10s someone earned - adding a third variable makes it really complicated, especially three-plus player games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastEditorUserId="2634" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T15:17:50.637" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T15:17:50.637" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14939" CreationDate="2014-03-12T18:47:51.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Alex's answer about hiding score. It makes it more difficult to tell at a glance how many VP someone has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's helpful even without that, just to use fewer one-point coins. Remember, the varying denominations aren't just to make it easy to exchange coins. You don't have to do that, and if you're trying to hide your score, you probably shouldn't. The different values also just help avoid needing a bunch of one-point coins for scores that are 3 or 4 mod 5. That makes it a little easier to hand out the coins, and also means that you're less likely to run out of one-point coins and have to ask players to trade in coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-03-12T21:11:25.640" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T21:11:25.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-12T20:15:34.550" Score="4" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the D&amp;amp;D Adventure game, The Legend of Drizzt, the cavern tiles have small triangles on them used to tell the players which edge of the tile will face the exploring hero.  These triangles are either black or white.  The rule book says the colors are &quot;used to distinguish between less dangerous and more dangerous tiles.&quot;  I could not find any more information on what this really means.  I noticed they are often on tiles with volcanic vents and tiles with lots of exposed edges.  Are the colors just to tell me that tile is generally more dangerous due to exposure to surrounding tiles or volcanic explosions, or is there some specific rule(s) I am missing that pertains to their color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7147" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T20:50:49.077" Title="Legend of Drizzt &quot;Cavern Tile&quot; triangle color" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15397" CreationDate="2014-03-12T20:33:51.310" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Plague Zombie card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If undefeated, banish the Plague Zombie, and each character at this location must succeed at a Constitution or Fortitude 6 check or be dealt 1d4 Acid damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means: if it was me who encountered this card and had not defeated it, I would have to take the usual combat damage and after that execute the &quot;if undefeated&quot; text or just the &quot;if undefeated&quot; text?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6764" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T16:41:20.000" Title="Taking hit from Plague Zombie" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14948" CreationDate="2014-03-12T20:50:49.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you place a tile with a black triangle you are also supposed to draw an encounter card during the Villain phase, so tiles with black triangles definitely can be more dangerous than those with white triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 6 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/LoD_Rulebook_EN.pdf&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (right column, top of page):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Triangles:&lt;/strong&gt; Each tile features a triangle. When you place a new &#xA;  tile, the triangle points toward the unexplored edge of the tile &#xA;  it is attached to. If the tile has a black triangle, you draw an &#xA;  Encounter card during the Villain Phase of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from page 8, Villain Phase, point 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you didn’t place a Cavern tile in your Exploration Phase, &#xA;  or if you placed a Cavern tile with a black triangle, draw &#xA;  and play an Encounter card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-03-12T20:50:49.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14921" CreationDate="2014-03-12T23:51:03.217" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The powerlevel of cards has changed, quite a lot of cards from the original netrunner have been increased in cost or decreased in effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main difference is that the new netrunner has factions and identities. When building a deck you are allowed as many neutral and your faction cards as you like, but you can only include up to 15 (normally) of other faction cards. Each identity has a influence allotment, minimum deck size and some ability. You are also only allowed 3 of a given card in your deck at most, in contrast to the original netrunner which had no limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some key words have changed, Wall is now barrier. Black Ice is now Illicit, and gives a BadPublicity when rezzed. Icebreakers have types Fracter instead of Worm/Noisy and Decoder instead of nothing for Code-gate breakers. Icebreakers which can break any ice is now called AI, and a new Icetype of Trap exists, which currently no breakers can break, other than AI and special icebreakers matching Destroyer or AP keywords on the trap. These Trap ice self-destruct as part of their effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base link cards have been removed from the game, now each runner identity has a base link on it (either 0 or 1). Traces are now open bid, with the corp bidding first. Trace(n) now means the trace starts from level n, and the corp can pay xC to boost this value by x. Then the runner takes their link (from base link + any from cards in play) and bids yC. If the values are equal the trace has failed, if the corp's values is higher than the runner's then the trace was successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad publicity is no longer a win condition, instead the runner gains 1C for each bad publicity the corp has at the start of each run. If these credits are not spent during the run, they are lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Virus counters are now placed on the virus, instead of being given to the corp. This means destroying the program will also remove the effects. Virus purging now requires 3 clicks to be spent, rather than forfeited. This means you cannot purge viruses easily without it taking your whole turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agendas are now forfeited as a whole, rather than forfeiting agenda points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stealth has changed, there are no Noisy icebreakers any more. Instead stealth icebreakers get special benefits from spending credits from stealth cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regions no longer have to be rezzed immediately when installed, but you are still not allowed more than 1 region per server at any time, rezzed or unrezed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of these changes the cards aren't really that compatible balance-wise, but a lot of cards are the same so you could check to see what changes have been made and adjust accordingly. You could play a game with them easily enough, but it might not be very balanced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example of changes, increased cost, change in virus mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BkoJa.png&quot; alt=&quot;New Deep thought&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IBsox.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Old Deep thought&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The icebreakers are generally less powerful at breaking big ice in Android Netrunner, so the very useful Pile Driver has no real equivalent in Android Netrunner.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QBaCd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pile Driver&quot;&gt; compared to &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6w0EF.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battering Ram&quot;&gt; and &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PBcgB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Morning Star&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T21:08:59.000" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T21:08:59.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-03-13T15:07:01.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a website for making your own, generating a PDF, sharing, and printing your own cards. Unaffiliated with CAH or Apples to Apples, but quite similar and easier than hand-writing or editing a PDF.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://snubsndunk.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snubs-n-dunk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7154" LastEditorUserId="7154" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T17:05:57.543" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T17:05:57.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T17:07:14.237" Score="2" ViewCount="2361" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner opens 1 hearts. You hold 4 cards in spades, 6+ cards in diamonds and 2 singletons (a total of 8 hcp). What is the correct bidding? I assume 1 spades. But what do you bid, if Partner rebids 1 no-trump or 2 hearts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7155" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T01:07:13.053" Title="response with 4 cards in major and long (6+) minor" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T17:50:13.837" Score="2" ViewCount="1761" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a breakdown of the common item, unique item and spell cards so I know what my chances are when buying certain cards. I've done a bit of googling and have not come up with anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T06:30:44.197" Title="Where can I find a list of all the cards in Elder Sign?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2014-03-13T18:52:00.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It may depend upon which bidding system you've agreed to use... if you're bidding Standard American, you should bid 1S.  Even if you're playing 2-over-1, you don't have enough to bid 2D.  And you shouldn't bid the forcing 1NT (in that system) with four spades.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By bidding 1S, then 2D (if pard bids 1NT) I think you're describing this hand pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel that if pard re-bids 2H, you must swallow and pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6954" LastEditorUserId="6954" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T19:38:53.670" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T19:38:53.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14959" CreationDate="2014-03-13T19:09:00.757" Score="10" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of Walled Village, is a card that was played and immediately trashed considered &quot;in play&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I play Mining Village, trashing it for the +2 coin, then play Walled Village, does the Mining village count towards the &quot;no more than one other Action card in play&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7156" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T20:03:34.820" Title="Is a card that was played and immediately trashed &quot;in play&quot;?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-promotional|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-13T19:27:33.143" Score="0" ViewCount="757" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just need a bit of rules clarification that I'm confused about. If I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Donate&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; an enchantment to an opponent in a multiplayer game, and then lose the game myself, does the enchantment leave play with me or does it remain under the control of my opponent until they lose or the game ends?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T19:44:07.127" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T19:44:07.127" Title="MTG Multiplayer—Card Control and Losing the Game" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-13T20:46:06.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14957" CreationDate="2014-03-13T19:31:09.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you leave a multiplayer game, all cards and permanents you &lt;strong&gt;own&lt;/strong&gt;, including the ones that other players control, leave the game. Specifically, this means that the enchantment you Donated &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; leave the game. The relevant rule is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/General_%28Multiplayer%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;800.4a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T19:41:34.053" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T19:41:34.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14956" CreationDate="2014-03-13T19:33:36.573" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not considered in play if it has moved from your play zone to the trash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'no more than one action card in play' trigger will not count mining villages that were played and then immediately trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sources: forum post by Donald X. (games creator)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/682203/description-sheet&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/682203/description-sheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Walled Village: When you play this, you draw a card and can play two&#xA;  more Actions this turn. At the start of your Clean-up phase, before&#xA;  discarding anything and before drawing for next turn, if you have a&#xA;  Walled Village in play and no more than two Action cards in play&#xA;  (counting the Walled Village), you may put the Walled Village on top&#xA;  of your deck. If the only cards you have in play are two Walled&#xA;  Villages, you may put either or both of them on top of your deck.&#xA;  Walled Village has to be in play to be put on top of your deck. &lt;strong&gt;Walled&#xA;  Village only checks how many Action cards are in play when its ability&#xA;  resolves; Action cards you played earlier this turn but which are no&#xA;  longer in play (such as Feast from Dominion) are not counted&lt;/strong&gt;, while&#xA;  Action cards still in play from previous turns (duration cards from&#xA;  Dominion: Seaside) are counted, as are Action cards that are in play&#xA;  now but may leave play after resolving Walled Village (such as&#xA;  Treasury from Dominion: Seaside).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example 'Feast' in the quote is an action with a self trashing ability similar to mining village.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-03-13T20:03:34.820" LastActivityDate="2014-03-13T20:03:34.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14963" CreationDate="2014-03-14T01:59:08.707" Score="5" ViewCount="6757" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270801&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Annihilating Fire&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Annihilating Fire deals 3 damage to target creature or player. If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I deal lethal damage to an indestructible creature with Annihilating Fire or after Annihilating Fire has been played on it this turn will the the creature be exiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:44:55.527" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:44:55.527" Title="What happens when I target an indestructible card with an &quot;if that would die this turn, exile it instead&quot; effect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14962" CreationDate="2014-03-14T02:26:23.117" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lethal damage will not cause an indestructible creature to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means &quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the&#xA;  state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that&#xA;  creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration&#xA;  can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if another effect causes the indestructible creature to die (for example through sacrificing), Annihilating Fire's effect will cause the card to be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270801&quot;&gt;A ruling on gatherer:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;10/1/2012     A creature dealt damage by Annihilating Fire will be exiled&#xA;  no matter why the creature would die. It could be destroyed by another&#xA;  spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T02:26:23.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13943" CreationDate="2014-03-14T09:30:47.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The order is up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Under the original rules.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play under the original rules, resolution happens in order of &lt;strong&gt;whichever card was played first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/system/files/downloads/Sentinels%20of%20the%20Multiverse%20Enhanced%20Edition%20Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conflict Resolution in the standard rules&lt;/a&gt;, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over the course of a game, there are situations in which multiple effects would occur simultaneously or have competing effects.  In all situations, &lt;strong&gt;card effects that happen simultaneously occur in the order in which the cards enter play&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;oldest takes effect first&amp;quot; rule is consistently applied to resolve other simultaneous conflicts, &lt;em&gt;even when they are on the same card&lt;/em&gt;.  For example, in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_rules_and_clarifications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clarifications to La Capitan's &amp;quot;Split Across Time&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; ability in the advanced rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;La Capitan’s “Split Across Time” side has an ability which reads “whenever la capitan would be dealt damage, move a card from under this card to the appropriate trash. If you do, prevent that damage”. Her advanced rules on this side say “the first time La Capitan would be dealt damage each round, redirect that damage to the non-villain target with the highest hp”. Which effect should trigger first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Because of the order in which the abilities are written on the card&lt;/strong&gt;, La Capitan would prevent damage by removing cards from beneath her until she could no longer do that, then use the damage redirection ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if Fortitude was played first, damage to Legacy would be reduced by 1 before Super-Human Durability takes effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;But, if you don't like that, then you pick the order.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole &amp;quot;conflict resolution&amp;quot; section was designed to keep the game moving smoothly.  In some certain cases - and Superhuman Durability versus Fortitude is explicitly called out - resolving in order can make the game more complex or less fun.  Since the whole intent of the rules is to ensure players are having fun, players are allowed to resolve ambiguous situations as they deem fit.  So &lt;a href=&quot;http://greaterthangames.com/forum/topic/timing-and-order-of-operations-4347&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can choose the order each effect is applied&lt;/a&gt;, as long as the cards are not &amp;quot;start of turn&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;end of turn&amp;quot; effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Christopher is one of the developers of Sentinels, so that's about as official as you can get.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T09:30:47.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2014-03-14T13:58:51.453" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following guidances will apply for any &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bidding_system#Natural_systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;natural&lt;/a&gt; non-&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canap%C3%A9_%28bridge%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;canapé&lt;/a&gt; system of bidding, including but not limited to SAYC, Goren (4-card majors), Five Card Majors, Two Over One, and many Precision and ACOL variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The importance of finding any existing 8 card major fit, particularly a 4-4 fit in a major, and of identifying misfits promptly, underlie the requirement that a hand such as you describe must respond &lt;em&gt;1 Spade&lt;/em&gt;. Due to the weakness of your hand (6-9 points) you are only entitled to make one free-bid (ie non-forced and non-invited response) during the auction. The specific reasons for making this bid as 1 Spade instead of 2 Diamonds are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To protect against partner having a hand that is 4-5 in the majors. Even if playing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flannery&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flannery Convention&lt;/a&gt; partner may have this shape but be outside the range allowed by the convention.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To maximize partner's opportunity to make his prepared 1 NT rebid with a balanced 15-17 HCP (when playing Weak Notrump) or a balanced 12-14 HCP (when playing a Strong Notrump).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To maximize partner's ability to make his prepared 2NT rebid with 18-19 HCP.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To keep the auction low until:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) adequate combined partnership strength is revealed to enable playing safely at a higher level; and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) A fit is revealed that makes it desirable to try for a game or slam contract. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a hand strength of 6-9 points (or 6-11 points if playing Two Over One) it is still incorrect to respond 2D over 1 Heart when holding 6 diamonds and only 3 spades. In such circumstance the correct response is 1 Notrump. It is absolutely imperative for bidding success and partnership harmony that proper discipline be exercised in the making of 2-over-1 responses to a suit opening. Such bids are immediately raising the level of the auction and, even more importantly, removing bidding room; they can only be engaged in successfully when the partnership is known to have adequate strength to do so safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that having made a 1 Spade response (to a 1 Heart opening) with a 6 to 9 point hand and 4-6 distribution in spades and diamonds, it is still incorrect to rebid 2D if partner rebids 2C. This bid again promises hand strength of 10+ points, by being a second free bid. In many systems this is stronger still by being an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fourth_suit_forcing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Artificial Fourth-Suit Forcing&lt;/a&gt; call. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have been asked for a preference by a partner who has declined to show additional strength; do so. The only acceptable calls at this point are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pass&lt;/strong&gt;, showing a hand that distinctly prefers Clubs over Hearts, and cannot raise to 3 Clubs because it has only 6 or 7 points;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 Hearts&lt;/strong&gt;, showing a hand that prefers Hearts to Clubs, or has no preference;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 Spades&lt;/strong&gt;, showing a 6 card or longer spade suit and denying three card heart support;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner rebids 2 Hearts over your 1 Spade response, this is showing a minimum unbalanced hand with 6+ hearts and denying 4 spades. With your singleton the partnership has announced being in possession of about half the high card points in the deck, and has found a seven card major suit fit. &lt;strong&gt;Pass&lt;/strong&gt; is the only call to even consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner rebids 1 Notrump over your one Spade response, then you are in territory usually governed by specific partnership agreements. Either or both of 2C and 2D will often be conventional bids inquiring further about Opener's major suit distribution and point range.  You do not have the mandated strength or major suit length to consider any of these. When not conventional they will typically show more strength (10+ points) than you possess, as again they are a second free-bid. As above, just &lt;strong&gt;Pass&lt;/strong&gt; and be thankful of getting out of this mis-fit auction cheaply, Weak opponents might even enter the auction and give you the chance for getting a plus score from setting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T14:06:50.737" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T14:06:50.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14493" CreationDate="2014-03-14T14:38:06.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From your list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed the Mind (ritual spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blessing of Isis (ritual spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynamite (item - weapon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Holy water (item magical)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Travel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my take on it: You can do &lt;em&gt;two distinct actions per turn&lt;/em&gt;.  So, out of your list you have: two spells, two items, and one travel action.  You can do any two of those.  So, you could travel (one action) and cast a spell (second action). However, you could not cast Feed The Mind (one action) then cast (Blessing Of Isis) as this another &quot;cast spell&quot; action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if during your combat your character did take some damage, they could still use the bandages to heal themselves.  The bandages are then discarded. Even if your character only took one point of damage, the bandages are discarded and you lose the extra healing.  In the same way, you can cast Flesh Ward during combat provided that you have not already done so as you can only cast it once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on the first unwritten rule of cooperative games: &lt;em&gt;if a rule can be interpreted in several ways, the right one is the least helpful to the players.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T14:38:06.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14969" CreationDate="2014-03-14T14:46:23.183" Score="11" ViewCount="1328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensnaring%20Bridge&quot;&gt;Ensnaring Bridge&lt;/a&gt; in play, and no cards in my hand. My opponent has a 0/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ornithopter&quot;&gt;Ornithopter&lt;/a&gt; in play, and also a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Plating&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt; (and some other artifacts to pump it up). Can he attack and then attach the Cranial Plating to the Ornithopter after announcing his attackers by using the &amp;quot;Attach&amp;quot; ability (The one for BB)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T15:45:07.287" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:51:47.850" Title="Ensnaring Bridge and Cranial Plating" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14967" CreationDate="2014-03-14T15:01:44.440" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, he can attach then, and yes, this does circumvent Ensnaring Bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the 'equip' ability is restricted to sorcery speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The '&lt;em&gt;{B}{B}: Attach Cranial Plating to target creature you control.&lt;/em&gt;' ability can be used anytime you have priority. That's why it's more expensive to use even though it has the same effect as Equip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the creature has already been declared as an attacker and correctly met the conditions needed to attack at that time (508.1c in the comprehensive rules), it has been declared as an attacker already, and suddenly failing to meet the conditions doesn't remove it from combat (506.4 and 506.4a). So all that mattered is the 'thopter was 0/2 when it attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-14T16:51:47.850" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T16:51:47.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-14T16:52:56.560" Score="12" ViewCount="45725" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I are buying an RTR booster box mainly in hopes of getting some chase rares, but also for some fun. &#xA;What are some Draft Variants for only 2 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T05:58:53.297" Title="Two Player Draft Formats" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14972" CreationDate="2014-03-14T17:08:58.673" Score="2" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have say an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Imagination&quot;&gt;Archetype of Imagination&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures you control have flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures your opponents control lose flying and can't have or gain flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warden%20of%20Evos%20Isle&quot;&gt;Warden of Evos Isle&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature spells with flying you cast cost 1 less to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will a card that does not normally have flying receive the cost reduction or do they not gain flying until they reach the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-03-15T00:12:27.653" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T00:12:27.653" Title="Does an Archetype affect summoning cost effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14971" CreationDate="2014-03-14T17:21:37.007" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Archetype of Imagination does not interact with Warden of Evos Isle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Archetype, or any other card, refers to &quot;creatures&quot;, it means creature permanents. So it does not affect creature cards or creature spells while they are in any other zone besides the battlefield. The relevant rule here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Object&quot;&gt;109.2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T17:21:37.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2014-03-14T17:48:48.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to control the south, as in africa, australlia, and always South America. South America Allows expansion into North, and Africa is the only other way to access it. Africa is expandable into Europe and Asia as well. Austraillia is just good for the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7159" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T17:48:48.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2014-03-14T18:05:39.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had fun with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ld/143&quot;&gt;Winchester Draft&lt;/a&gt; a couple of times. The article mentions &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/daily/af59&quot;&gt;Winston Draft&lt;/a&gt;, which I've never tried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T18:05:39.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-14T15:34:25.333" Score="0" ViewCount="46" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I are splitting a RTR Booster box, mostly with hope for some chase rares, but we also wanted to have some fun while opening. &#xA;What are some Draft modes that only require two people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" OwnerDisplayName="Mark Goncharov" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T20:43:08.120" Title="2 Player Draft Ideas" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-03-14T20:45:17.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2014-03-14T17:13:02.157" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try to play boosterbattle. Yout each take a booster and remove the token. You take 15 basic lands (3 of each) and shuffle all cards (unseen). Then you just play a Magic game. When you shuffle unseen, every card is a surprise. I've had much fun playing booster battles like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh yeah, about 50% of your deck is land, and you often don't draw the right lands, but you don't take mulligans then :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" OwnerDisplayName="Ivo Geersen" LastActivityDate="2014-03-14T17:13:02.157" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11724" CreationDate="2014-03-15T23:18:26.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with Pieter, you were both unlucky and outplayed.  You were outplayed in that Chuck knew he had a chance (no matter how slim) to destroy the entire DAK in one fell swoop early in the war.  If you had succeeded in rolling your supply, DAK would have survived and with Tobruk in hand early in the game you had a fair chance of winning the game.  However, I presume Chuck still had his 4-4-7 and perhaps his 2-2-6 intact, and he could have still given you a run for the money at Halfaya or in a last stand at Alamein.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have actually used this same gambit as the Brits with mixed success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, like Pieter, how did you let yourself get bottled up in Tobruk without a supply unit?  When I play the Germans, I almost always keep at least 2 supply units on the board.  The only time to risk being without supply is when you are going for a no kidding game winning option.  I probably would not have gone after Tobruk with only one supply unit on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7166" LastActivityDate="2014-03-15T23:18:26.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14979" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-16T00:00:07.910" Score="4" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got about 8 friends with varying levels of interest in picking up Netrunner.  At least 3 folks have spent a lot of money on cards and play in local tournaments.  On the other end of the spectrum are friends who don't like the idea of 1) spending a lot of time assembling decks or 2) having to purchase much more than the core deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What kind of system/format would be fun for everyone to play together?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some parameters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ideally we would stick with the core deck, but an additional cost of ~$15 is doable too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimal deck pre-assembly - several folks aren't interested in spending their free time doing this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deck tinkering on game night is fine; ideally everyone would spend equal time on  deck modification&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experienced players should not have a card/asset advantage over new players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine that restricting experienced players to just the core deck might be kind of dull for them, so I'm hoping someone has some ideas of fair ways to spice things up a little for them while keeping the game accessible for new/less dedicated players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7167" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T14:55:48.773" Title="Looking for uber-accessible game formats for Android: Netrunner" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14984" CreationDate="2014-03-16T02:55:42.080" Score="5" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is rather simple, but we can't quite put a finger on the correct answer. Items such as the Lucky Cigarette Case ... can we use them on other player rolls or just our own? The text says to add 1 to the result of a single die roll ... but doesn't specify on whom you can use it. Any help would be neato, thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2151" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T08:54:19.257" Title="Can I use Lucky Cigarette Case on another player" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-03-16T06:39:24.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group has only played four games (and only have the base set), but we have found the combination of Dinosaurs and Tricksters to be not very good, that combination being randomly assigned in two games, then someone refusing to believe there are any bad combos taking them by choice for the fourth game (which, admittedly, he could have won, if his deck was one turn faster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may still be a new player, but I like to think I am a quick leaner for things like this. It feels like to me that, at least in the base set, half of the factions are &quot;support&quot; factions and the other half are &quot;offense&quot; factions. Dinos, Ninjas, Tricksters (my group just calls them &quot;Fae&quot;) and I want to say Pirates are the attacker factions, while Robots, Zombies, Wizards and  Aliens are more support-y. Anybody else feel this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get back on track, while two support factions (Zombie Robots, for example) can be a killer combo, two attacker factions (re: Dino Fae) can be more of a hindrance. I'm not saying you can't win, but you are likely at a disadvantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7168" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T06:39:24.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14980" CreationDate="2014-03-16T13:26:04.153" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, unless an item specifically says it can be used on other investigators (e.g., &quot;Choose an investigator&quot;), it can only be used on/by the person holding the item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-03-16T13:26:04.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15603" CreationDate="2014-03-16T17:09:26.683" Score="2" ViewCount="38430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to play Ticket to Ride for the iOS on the iPad (regular full version, not pocket) with friends over the internet (not local wifi).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I tried using Game Center to issue a 'challenge', but it doesn't seem to work.  I always end up in a room with random players when I use the 'local' play feature.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does anyone know if this type of multiplayer game is possible with the iOS TTR?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3551" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T21:19:22.577" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T04:54:42.770" Title="How to play multiplayer Ticket to Ride (iOS/iPad) with friends over the Internet?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|online|ios|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="14986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14766" CreationDate="2014-03-17T11:04:08.373" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, after a visit to my grandmother I was able to unearth the box with the game. To my delight it was almost completely intact. It's called &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Путешествие в космос&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;A trip to space&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;). It's really hard to find anything related to this game on Google - all the results refer to a newer game by the same title. I'll post some more details, including a scan of the manual and photos of the board, later today or maybe tomorrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, while waiting for the BoardGameGeek submission to be accepted, I decided to post the photos now for everyone to see. Enjoy!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone would be interested in the English translation of the manual, let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The submission to BoardGameGeek has finally been accepted. You can view it &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/156985/puteshestvie-v-kosmos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Have fun!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Box&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi57.tinypic.com/2d120j9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o9sEw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Manual Cover&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi58.tinypic.com/ymark.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S9NAn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Manual cover&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Manual Text&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi61.tinypic.com/2q9dt00.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HREnk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Manual Text&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Front (Upper Left)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi59.tinypic.com/f35nvq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mfzs5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Front (Upper Left)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Front (Upper Right)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi61.tinypic.com/9zp17b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ITXK9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Front (Upper Right)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Front (Lower Right)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi57.tinypic.com/2r3jvgo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vfbOi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Front (Lower Right)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Front (Lower Left)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi61.tinypic.com/2yytkw7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vR2Mz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Front (Lower Left)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Back (Lower Left)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi58.tinypic.com/2r7ndcn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9LwQ1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Back (Lower Left)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Back (Lower Right)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi62.tinypic.com/w86ofc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Athus.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Back (Lower Right)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Back (Upper Right)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi62.tinypic.com/nxt3ep.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaBGj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Back (Upper Right)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Board Back (Upper Left)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://oi60.tinypic.com/2a61j7d.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QFQcp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board Back (Upper Left)&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6989" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:41:24.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14994" CreationDate="2014-03-17T15:45:11.220" Score="2" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I play a card that has a tribute ability with the word target in it, my opponent chooses not to pay the tribute, and ability that applies has no valid targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the ability simply do nothing, can I not play the card because it will resolve illegally, or will my opponent be forced to pay the tribute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T23:18:34.450" Title="What happens if a tribute effect has no valid target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14979" CreationDate="2014-03-17T16:37:55.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was waiting to see if anyone would add anything more substantial, but - realistically - the answer to this is either: a) embrace the complexity and stop worrying about pleasing everyone, or b) choose a different game.  One of Netrunner's primary strengths is in the synergy between the cards and in the personal choices taken during deck building, which you are amputating in the name of simplicity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I would recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) For the first few sessions, only allow decks built upon the core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) As soon as your group is familiar with the rules, they will know if they are invested in the game - or not.  If they are, then you've already got them hooked.  At this point, I would open the card pool to all available cards.  The nice thing about the LCG format is that there are no real &quot;win more&quot; cards, but just different strategies to win.  Some of the most powerful cards in the game are core.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't a game where having all the cards == winning.  In fact, the last tournament I went to, a friend of mine - playing with just core cards and A Study in Static - ended up doing better than I did with access to all the available cards! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What opening the card pool also allows is for people to start seeing new cards that might resonate with them.  Before my first tournament, I didn't get why Jackson Howard was a big deal.  After my first tournament, it was very obvious. When encountering such a card, a new player can then pick that specific pack to add to their collection.  There is no real need to buy everything.  Plus, if the less dedicated people want to start participating in tournaments, removing the card restriction handicap will make your sessions substantially more realistic in terms of what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again, I stress: core decks may be less efficient than a custom build based upon all available cards, but they &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; still be winnable.  As long as everyone is having fun, I would not worry too much about trying to balance everything perfectly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to promote creativity, I would recommend incorporating a Netrunner Achievements thing (maybe with a prize).  See this link: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/92998/netrunner-achievements&quot;&gt;Netrunner Achievements&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option is, after you have done the core set matches, try drafting?  That is a bit more expensive but would make for some interesting games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T16:37:55.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2014-03-17T16:43:30.350" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tribute ability and abilities that trigger if the tribute wasn't paid are separate. It is perfectly legitimate for an opponent to not pay a tribute when there is no target for the ability that will trigger afterward. As with any such cases, that ability will then be countered automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why this is the case is not quite as straightforward, since the rules are a little roundabout about it, but tribute, being a &lt;em&gt;static ability&lt;/em&gt; (like unleash) is just something that goes on as the creature enters the battlefield (what makes it feel very different is the delay introduced by the opponent choosing instead of you). The tribute-bound ability will trigger after that, when the creature is on the battlefield, and depending on the opponent's choice. At that point, if it has no target, it will fizzle normally (the same as when you control no other creature and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breaching%20Hippocamp&quot;&gt;Breaching Hippocamp&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2593" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T17:26:22.810" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T17:26:22.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="14992" CreationDate="2014-03-17T18:22:24.343" Score="2" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volatile%20Rig&quot;&gt;Volatile Rig&lt;/a&gt; in play. The Rig has some silly coin flipping abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Volatile Rig is dealt damage, flip a coin. If you lose the flip, sacrifice Volatile Rig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Volatile Rig dies, flip a coin. If you lose the flip, it deals 4 damage to each creature and each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with some creatures, including a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xathrid%20Necromancer&quot;&gt;Xathrid Necromancer&lt;/a&gt;. He blocks the Necromancer with his Rig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we get to combat damage, the Necromancer is going to die, and the Volatile Rig is going to take damage, triggering its first ability. I'm going to get a 2/2 zombie off the Necromancer's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Xathrid Necromancer or another Human creature you control dies, put a 2/2 black Zombie creature token onto the battlefield tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Rig blows up, will I possibly lose my zombie to the second ability of the Rig? Or do I get the zombie after all the Rig abilities have resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T18:59:07.707" Title="Volatile Rig blocks Xathrid Necromancer: What happens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14991" CreationDate="2014-03-17T18:53:48.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your zombie will be safe, because you are the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All combat damage is dealt simultaneously. This causes the Rig to trigger, but triggered abilities don't go on the stack until the next time state-based actions are checked. When state-based actions are checked, the Necromancer dies because he has taken lethal damage. This causes the Necromancer trigger to happen. Once state-based actions are done being checked, both the Rig ability and the Necromancer ability are put on the stack. Because you are the active player, your ability is put on the stack first. So the Rig ability will resolve, causing a coin flip. If that coin flip is lost, another triggered ability will be created, and put on the stack at the top. When that coin flip is lost, your zombie hasn't been created yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; &lt;strong&gt;otherwise all triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on the stack,&lt;/strong&gt; then the check is repeated. Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority. This process also occurs during the cleanup step (see rule 514), except that if no state-based actions are performed as the result of the step’s first check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, then no player gets priority and the step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this would be different if it were your opponent's turn instead. In that case, your zombie trigger would go on the stack after the Rig trigger, thus resolving first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T18:59:07.707" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T18:59:07.707" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14802" CreationDate="2014-03-17T19:23:08.877" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't forget about the tie breaker rule for Munchkin. &quot;When in doubt, the owner of the game is right.&quot; So it depends on the opinion of the owner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T19:23:08.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14987" CreationDate="2014-03-17T22:39:03.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your tribute creature will enter the battlefield. Your opponent may refuse tribute, and the ability responding to no tribute &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be auto-countered if it has no targets, but that will not make the creature itself get countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the ability simply do nothing, can I not play the card because it will resolve illegally, or will my opponent be forced to pay the tribute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You appear to have a misunderstanding of the mechanism of spells being auto-countered when they have no targets, and how that extends to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants and sorceries get auto-countered if they have no valid targets for one reason: they (normally, or always AFAIK) place &lt;em&gt;just one&lt;/em&gt; ability on the stack - a spell ability, which is the text on the card. If that spell ability gets auto-countered, the entire card might have no effect, because it's all the card did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;em&gt;creatures&lt;/em&gt; aren't a card that just have one single effect. When you're summoning a creature with tribute, you will do all of these things &lt;em&gt;separately and independently:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Summon the creature. This uses the stack, and the creature spell can be countered by e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent is offered the choice to tribute the creature. This doesn't go on the stack and can't be countered, since it's a static ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If tribute wasn't paid, then when the creature enters the battlefield, place the ability triggered by not paying the tribute on the stack to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#1 &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; #3 can be countered independently. If someone plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt; on your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nessian%20Wilds%20Ravager&quot;&gt;Nessian Wilds Ravager&lt;/a&gt;, the entire creature card will go to your graveyard and #2 and #3 won't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if #3 gets countered (including by #3 having no legal targets), the creature is &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; going to enter the battlefield - it's already done so - and countering the individual ability has &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt; to do with countering the card as a whole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-03-17T23:18:34.450" LastActivityDate="2014-03-17T23:18:34.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14995" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-18T07:02:17.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Decktet is a set of cards with which a number of different games can be played, much like standard playing cards. Each card has a rank and some number of suits.  The suits are generally unordered, and are moons, suns, waves, leaves, wyrms and knots. The base deck consists of thirty-six cards with ranks two to nine, ace and crown. The cards between two and nine have two suits each, and between them there is exactly one suit per rank. There are six aces and crowns, one for each suit.  The extended deck has an additional nine cards and are often left to one side during a game.  They are the pawns, courts and the excuse. The pawns and courts have three suits each, and the excuse has no suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information, a print-and-play deck, and rules to a large number of games, check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.decktet.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Decktet Wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T07:02:17.833" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T07:02:17.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14996" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-18T07:02:17.833" Score="0" Body="The Decktet is a game system consisting of forty-five cards in six suits." OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T07:02:17.833" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T07:02:17.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-18T16:03:05.273" Score="4" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the Wonders earns the player, in its second stage, the right to go through the discard pile of previously played ages, choose one card and build it for free.  Is this a one time deal, to be done at the conclusion of the age during which the player completes the stage, or can the player now &quot;dumpster dive&quot; in the discard pile at the end of every subsequent age as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7182" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T17:57:36.687" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:37:47.230" Title="Can the Wonder that pulls from the discard pile be used multiple times?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="14999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14998" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:03:15.730" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use this ability &lt;strong&gt;one time only&lt;/strong&gt;: exactly at the end of the turn in which this stage is built (not at the end of the Age!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And note that it’s not only for cards from the &quot;previously played ages&quot;. The discard pile may also contain cards from the current Age and even the current turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant explanation is on page 8 of base game &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;The Mausoleum of Halicarnassus&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Clarification: this special ability takes place at the end of the turn in which&#xA;  this stage is built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:37:47.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15001" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:46:09.863" Score="2" ViewCount="1478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Ricochet&quot;&gt;Wild Ricochet&lt;/a&gt; on an opponent's spell that says &amp;quot;target creature you control&amp;quot; (A not overloaded &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dynacharge&quot;&gt;Dynacharge&lt;/a&gt; for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are valid targets for the spell and the copy? If I can only choose their creatures could I choose to redirect it nowhere as a roundabout counter or do I have to pick valid targets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T19:07:03.113" Title="How does targeting limitation work for Wild Ricochet?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15000" CreationDate="2014-03-18T17:56:47.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original instance of Dynacharge is controlled by your opponent, so the only valid targets are creatures that that player controls. You must target a creature they control; you cannot choose an invalid target or target nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You control the copy of Dynacharge, so you may choose one of your creatures as a target for the copy. If there are no valid targets or if you choose not to change the target, the copy will be countered as it would resolve for having an illegal target. &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Copying_objects&quot;&gt;Rule 706.2&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics and, for an object on the stack, choices made when casting or activating it (mode, targets, the value of X, whether it was kicked, how it will affect multiple targets, and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And rule 706.10c says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some effects copy a spell or ability and state that its controller may choose new targets for the copy. The player may leave any number of the targets unchanged, even if those targets would be illegal. If the player chooses to change some or all of the targets, the new targets must be legal. Once the player has decided what the copy’s targets will be, the copy is put onto the stack with those targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-03-18T19:07:03.113" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T19:07:03.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13567" CreationDate="2014-03-18T23:43:52.583" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can combine anything except the red ones as per the above graph, doesn't matter if it's flufy or makes sense. Nor do you need permission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your allied detachment MUST take 1 HQ and 1 Troops choice and CAN take another Troop, Fast, Elite and Heavy Support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7185" LastActivityDate="2014-03-18T23:43:52.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:24:58.650" Score="1" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about a card sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I play an instant card that says &quot;all creatures who dealt damage &lt;strong&gt;this turn&lt;/strong&gt; return to owners hand&quot; in my first main phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if my opponent flash summons a creature card in my second main phase that says &quot;when this creature enters the battlefield do two damage to target creature/player&quot;, does that creature return to my opponent's hand because I played the instant spell card in my first main phase and it says this turn and my turn hasn't ended? Or does that effect of the spell resolve and the effects no longer affect subsequent events?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7186" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T14:17:48.983" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T14:17:48.983" Title="Magic the Gathering lingering spell effect" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:30:25.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your example, the spell you played would have no affect on anything that happens after the spell itself it done resolving. If a spell were going to have a lasting effect as you describe, that spell would need to create what is called a &quot;continuous effect.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most situations, a card that creates such an effect will state a duration, such as &quot;until the end of turn.&quot; So to get the effect you are thinking, a card would need to state &lt;code&gt;&quot;Until the end of the turn, whenever a creature deals damage, return that creature to its owner's hand.&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T02:30:25.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15003" CreationDate="2014-03-19T02:31:07.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording &amp;quot;All creatures who dealt damage this turn return to owners hand&amp;quot; is a little off. You could find the virtually identical&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Return all creatures that dealt damage this turn to their owners' hands.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Return.&amp;quot; There's no duration. It's something that happens there and then. When it resolves, all creatures that dealt damage earlier this turn are returned to their owners' hand. Creatures that deal damage latter will not be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;That dealt damage this turn&amp;quot; is just a condition that specifies which creatures are affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Return all creatures &amp;lt;matching this condition&amp;gt; to their owners' hands.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there are no existing card with the initial text, there are existing cards with the different conditions. For example, there's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPart%20the%20Veil%5d&quot;&gt;Part the Veil&lt;/a&gt;. It's an instant with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Return all creatures you control to their owner's hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at a later time you gain control of a creature, it will not be returned to your hand. Only creatures matching the condition at the very moment the effect resolves are affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a thing called continuous effect which can last beyond the source of the effect that created it. Some of them affect the objects that matched the condition when the continuous effect was created and some of them continually revise what objects they affect. Here are the examples associated with rule CR 611.2c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: An effect that reads “All white creatures get +1/+1 until end of turn” gives the bonus to all permanents that are white creatures when the spell or ability resolves—even if they change color later—and doesn’t affect those that enter the battlefield or turn white afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: An effect that reads “Prevent all damage creatures would deal this turn” doesn’t modify any object’s characteristics, so it’s modifying the rules of the game. That means the effect will apply even to damage from creatures that weren’t on the battlefield when the continuous effect began. It also affects damage from permanents that become creatures later in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10779/2880&quot;&gt;Related Answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T03:13:44.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15006" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15007" CreationDate="2014-03-19T04:37:02.273" Score="9" ViewCount="53393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking into a new card for my deck and I was curious if instants could be used before an ability triggered 'at the beginning of your upkeep' resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the potential situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cryptoplasm&quot;&gt;Cryptoplasm&lt;/a&gt; and have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Spoiling&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt; in hand. My opponent controls an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Endurance&quot;&gt;Archetype of Endurance&lt;/a&gt;, which gives my opponent's creatures hexproof - but its controller doesn't have hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to use Sudden Spoiling to suppress the Archetype of Endurance's hexproof, and I want Cryptoplasm's upkeep ability to trigger and make it a copy of the Archetype of Endurance whilst it does not have hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can instants be used before a &lt;em&gt;'beginning of your upkeep'&lt;/em&gt; ability resolves, and is this play legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7187" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T23:21:42.963" LastActivityDate="2020-04-05T23:37:45.930" Title="Can an instant spell be used before an upkeep triggered ability resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15006" CreationDate="2014-03-19T05:19:52.977" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No,&lt;/strong&gt; you can't do what you're trying to do, unfortunately!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes,&lt;/strong&gt; however, in general you can cast instants before a &amp;quot;beginning of your upkeep&amp;quot; triggered ability resolves. You cannot, however, do it before that ability gets triggered and goes on the stack, which is what messes up your plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upkeep step is the first step in your turn when you receive priority (and can thus cast an instant), and it involves &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Upkeep_step#Upkeep_step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;two steps&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;503.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the upkeep step and any abilities that triggered during the turn's untap step go on the stack.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;503.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What this means for the general case&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered abilities from &lt;strong&gt;503.1&lt;/strong&gt; won't resolve before you have your chance to respond to them in &lt;strong&gt;503.2&lt;/strong&gt;, so in the general case, instants can be cast before &amp;quot;beginning of your upkeep&amp;quot; triggered abilities resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What this means for your strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific strategy, though, this isn't quite enough. You want Cryptoplasm to copy Archetype of Endurance. It can't do that, because things happen in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;503.1&lt;/strong&gt; happens. Cryptoplasm's triggered ability is placed on the stack. As part of this process, you choose your targets for that ability, which means choosing the creature Cryptoplasm will copy. At this point, Sudden Spoiling can't yet be cast, and Archetype of Endurance still has hexproof, so it cannot be legally chosen as a target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;503.2&lt;/strong&gt; happens. You receive priority and can cast instants. This is the earliest time you can cast Sudden Spoiling, but at this point it's too late to make Archetype of Endurance a legal target for your Cryptoplasm - a target's already been chosen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventually, your Cryptoplasm's triggered ability resolves, and it becomes a copy of the creature you chose in step 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clever thinking, but the order of events prevents this strategy from working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're playing black/blue, your options include using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lazav%2C%20Dimir%20Mastermind&quot;&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; and destroying the Archetype, or using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Willbender&quot;&gt;Willbender&lt;/a&gt; after Sudden Spoiling resolves so as to change the target you chose in step 1 to the Archetype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T00:58:05.617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T00:58:05.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15010" CreationDate="2014-03-19T16:20:56.633" Score="10" ViewCount="10821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question that bothers me after reading a part of the big book of rules :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's about the rule 717, illegal actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;717.1. If a player realizes that he or she can’t legally take an action after starting to do so, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled. No abilities trigger and no effects apply as a result of an undone action. If the action was casting a spell, the spell returns to the zone it came from. The player may also reverse any legal mana abilities activated while making the illegal play, unless mana from them or from any triggered mana abilities they triggered was spent on another mana ability that wasn’t reversed. Players may not reverse actions that moved cards to a library, moved cards from a library to any zone other than the stack, or caused a library to be shuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, player A plays a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional cost to cast Goblin Grenade, &lt;strong&gt;sacrifice a Goblin&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Goblin Grenade deals 5 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on the stack. Player B gains priority and casts a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terror&quot;&gt;Terror&lt;/a&gt; on the only goblin of Player A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Destroy target&lt;/strong&gt; nonartifact, nonblack creature. It can't be regenerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The terror goes on the stack. Then both players agree to resolve the stack. The terror kills the last goblin standing and then the Goblin Grenade can't be cast because of the additional cost which can't be paid. So in my opinion that leaves two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Goblin Grenade returns to the zone it was previously from (the hand of Player A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Goblin Grenade becomes illegal and gets countered, so it goes to the graveyard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on rule 717 I think it goes back to the hand but I'm not quite sure. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7193" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T18:55:20.490" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T18:55:20.490" Title="What happens when additional costs can't ultimately be paid, but the spell is on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15009" CreationDate="2014-03-19T16:37:44.353" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the opponents gets a chance to cast Terror, the Goblin has already been sacrificed as part of the cost to cast Goblin Grenade. It's not available to be targetted by Terror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional costs are part of the total cost to cast a spell or activate an ability. To paraphrase 601.2e,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;total cost = mana cost or alternative cost + cost increases and additional costs - cost reductions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total cost to cast a spell is payed as part of casting the spell. To paraphrase 601.2's subsections, to cast a spell is to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2a) Place the card on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2b-d) Make some choices including targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2e) Determine the total cost to cast the spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2f) Activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2g) Pay the total cost to cast the spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this, including sacrificing a Goblin, happens when you cast Goblin Grenade. When the opponents gets a chance to cast Terror, the Goblin has already been sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The illegal action in your scenario is the casting of Goblin Grenade for the wrong cost.&lt;/strong&gt; In a casual setting, you should rewind the casting of Terror, finish paying the cost of Goblin Grenade (i.e. Sacrifice a Goblin), then proceed from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things are different at Pro and Competitive Rule Enforcement Levels (REL). For starters, there would be two errors. You failed to pay the appropriate cost (Game Play Error — Game Rule Violation) , and your opponent allowed the game to proceed in a bad state (Game Play Error — Failure to Maintain Game State). The consequences are detailed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/wpn/Document.aspx?x=Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; (IPG) rather than CR 717.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-19T16:56:22.367" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T16:56:22.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15009" CreationDate="2014-03-19T16:39:57.433" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When player A casts Goblin Grenade, as part of the casting cost, they sacrifice a Goblin. If they cannot sacrifice a Goblin &lt;em&gt;at that time&lt;/em&gt;, casting the spell is an illegal action so it goes back into player A's hand by rule 717.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when player B tries to cast Terror, if the Goblin that was sacrificed was the only creature on the field, then when they are trying to cast Terror there are no valid targets, so the spell cannot be cast. Either way, the cost for Goblin Grenade has already been paid, so Terror cannot change player A's ability to pay that cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T16:39:57.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15013" CreationDate="2014-03-19T23:34:44.313" Score="2" ViewCount="497" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once heard about a web app for designing Robot Turtles boards. Where is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastEditorUserId="1696" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T19:34:13.987" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T19:58:37.860" Title="Where can I find the web app for designing Robot Turtles boards?" Tags="|robot-turtles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15012" CreationDate="2014-03-19T23:37:36.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That web application exists at &lt;a href=&quot;http://maze-builder.robotturtles.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://maze-builder.robotturtles.com/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1696" LastActivityDate="2014-03-19T23:37:36.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T01:20:07.493" Score="2" ViewCount="2267" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a group of 5 or so people that enjoy playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/loveletter/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Love Letter&lt;/a&gt; to fill in a few spare moments at work over lunch or at the end of the day. The key elements are the game is interesting, fast paced, simple rules and not very long to play a round or four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering is there are any similar games out there? Perhaps with a sci-fi theme?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7198" LastEditorUserId="7198" LastEditDate="2014-03-20T01:31:47.783" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T01:31:47.783" Title="Are there similar games to &quot;Love Letter&quot;?" Tags="|recommendations|love-letter|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-03-20T02:38:58.497" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T09:15:27.927" Score="3" ViewCount="6736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for cards that allow me to &lt;em&gt;banish&lt;/em&gt; one or more &lt;em&gt;Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt; from my own graveyard repeatedly. By repeatedly, I mean that they can be used several times per turn, including with some workaround. An example of what cards fit my needs is &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Spell_Striker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spell Striker&lt;/a&gt;, who banishes one &lt;em&gt;Spell Card&lt;/em&gt; to Special Summon itself, then if I somehow get it back into my hand, I can use it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trap Cards&lt;/em&gt;. I need cards that work immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that banish any number of &lt;em&gt;Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt; once. I need to use them again and again, banishing my &lt;em&gt;Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt; one by one. Banishing all at once doesn't help unless I can do it as often as I like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that banish a specific &lt;em&gt;Spell Card&lt;/em&gt;. Like &lt;em&gt;Spellbook&lt;/em&gt; shenanigans. I need to banish generic &lt;em&gt;Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that banish only non-&lt;em&gt;Normal Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt;. I need to banish &lt;em&gt;Normal Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt;. If a card can banish other &lt;em&gt;Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt; too, it's still fine, if it can banish only &lt;em&gt;Normal Spell Cards&lt;/em&gt;, no problem. But it has to be able to banish &lt;em&gt;Normal Spell Card&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Monsters that must be &lt;em&gt;Normal Summoned&lt;/em&gt; are of limited use unless their effect can be used as often as I like. &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Chaosrider_Gustaph&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chaosrider Gustaph&lt;/a&gt; comes to mind, but he's more or less useless because he banishes 2 cards and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my preemptive search, I found litterally no cards that fit my description except &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Spell_Striker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spell Striker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Banisher_of_the_Light%20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Banisher of the Light&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Banisher_of_the_Radiance%20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Radiance&lt;/a&gt; (which needs to be on the field before the &lt;em&gt;Spell Card&lt;/em&gt; is played). I'm hoping someone knows more cards I can use to achieve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="21943" LastEditDate="2017-12-01T13:42:36.513" LastActivityDate="2020-07-10T06:51:50.933" Title="Banishing Spell Cards from the graveyard" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T09:23:48.677" Score="2" ViewCount="11007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for cards that allow me to &lt;em&gt;return&lt;/em&gt; one or more &lt;em&gt;Monster Cards&lt;/em&gt; from my own side of the field &lt;em&gt;to my hand&lt;/em&gt; repeatedly. By repeatedly, I mean that they can be used several times per turn, including with some workaround. An example of what cards fit my needs is &lt;strong&gt;Genex Ally Birdman&lt;/strong&gt;, who returns one face-up &lt;em&gt;Monster Card&lt;/em&gt; to Special Summon itself, then if I somehow get it back into my hand, I can use it again (and yes, I'm aware it banishes itself, there are still ways to get it back).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I'm &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trap Cards&lt;/em&gt;. I need cards that work immediately.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that return any number of &lt;em&gt;Monster Cards&lt;/em&gt; once. I need to use them again and again, returning the same &lt;em&gt;Monster Card&lt;/em&gt; which I Special Summon over and over to Special Summon it yet again. Returning all at once doesn't help unless I can do it as often as I like.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that return a specific &lt;em&gt;Monster Card&lt;/em&gt;. I need to return generic &lt;em&gt;Monster Cards&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Monsters that must be &lt;em&gt;Normal Summoned&lt;/em&gt; are of limited use unless their effect can be used as often as I like. &lt;strong&gt;Swap Frog&lt;/strong&gt; comes to mind, but he's more or less useless because he returns either himself or exactly one Monster and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some context, and to make it easier to evaluate whether your idea fits the requirements, here's the intended in-game purpose of this: I want to re-use cards like &lt;strong&gt;Spell Striker&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Black Luster Soldier - Envoy of the Beginning&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Trap Eater&lt;/strong&gt; in order to banish all Spells/Monsters from my GY/eat all the Traps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6936" LastEditorUserId="6936" LastEditDate="2018-05-13T01:27:04.470" LastActivityDate="2019-03-15T02:15:12.417" Title="What are some cards that allow for returning Monsters to my hand?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T11:51:53.040" Score="3" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a child I had a board game that featured small plastic monsters. If I recall each player chose a type of monster and you got three monsters to play with of that type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember nothing of the game play apart from I that I think you could chose which of your monsters you moved in your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were Blue, Yellow, Red and Green Monsters I remember the Blue monsters where like lumpy blue clouds on legs with a bulbous nose and one of the other colours was triangle shaped with an eye on two of the three sides of the triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend asked me what the game was called recently and though I remember playing it I can't for the life of me remember what it was called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2020-01-11T21:46:20.270" Title="Identify board game played as a child featuring cute monsters" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15017" CreationDate="2014-03-20T12:37:20.783" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found it, the game was called The Gunge Game and was released in 1989 by Waddingtons. It doesn't even have a wikipedia entry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOIcQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1965" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T12:37:20.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-20T13:52:15.530" Score="7" ViewCount="2088" Body="&lt;p&gt;My gaming circle does not feel Axis and Allies WWI is balanced. None of us has yet achieved victory as the Central Powers. What rule modifications would you suggest to balance the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7205" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T19:42:27.490" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T20:41:37.733" Title="How Can One Create Game Balance Axis and Allies WWI?" Tags="|house-rules|game-design|axis-and-allies|balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15023" CreationDate="2014-03-20T18:32:33.720" Score="4" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Dunwich Horror rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each monster returned to the cup in this fashion, &lt;strong&gt;raise the terror&#xA;  level by one.&lt;/strong&gt; In addition, if there are fewer than three Dunwich&#xA;  Horror tokens on the Dunwich Horror track, &lt;strong&gt;add one Dunwich Horror&#xA;  token to the track.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean if three monsters move onto a vortex in one monster movement phase that three Dunwich Horror tokens are added (if none are there) or just one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T01:47:23.690" Title="When multiple monsters enter a Vortex during a turn do multiple Dunwich tokens get added?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-dunwich-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13996" CreationDate="2014-03-20T18:47:15.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't see a complete rulebook for EuroRails, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/157/eurorails&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardgameGeek&lt;/a&gt; page does contain a number of reference sheets. I'd start with the BGG page for each game you're interested in and go from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2014-03-20T18:47:15.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15021" CreationDate="2014-03-21T01:47:23.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording specifies that this action is in &lt;strong&gt;addition&lt;/strong&gt; to raising the terror level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules does not state that you add one Dunwich Horror token for each monster added. After increasing the terror level, if there a fewer than 3 tokens, add one token only&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T01:47:23.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15024" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-21T04:37:29.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dunwich Horror is the first large-box expansion for Fantasy Flights' Arkham Horror board game. Released in July 2006, it introduced several new game mechanics, such as Stalker monsters, Injuries, Madnesses, Conditions and Vortices. It also includes eight new Investigators and four new Ancient Ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T08:13:23.160" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T08:13:23.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15025" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-21T04:37:29.350" Score="0" Body="Dunwich Horror is the first large-box expansion for Fantasy Flights' Arkham Horror board game. " OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T08:13:09.687" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T08:13:09.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-21T14:11:08.497" Score="1" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was on one health and had two creatures in play. One of those was useless due to a card my opponent played to stop it doing anything. The other had an inspired ability that might have helped me catch back up. He had a buffed up creature and on 19 health (it was a 1v1v1 just us 2 left). Now I decided to play a card I had already said I was playing, but hadn't decided whether to bestow or not. I decided after a minute or so to play as creature so I had one to block. I then said shortly after probably 3-5 seconds &quot;I will attack with my inspired creature&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now as I understand it, when I move on to attacking phase he can't then play an instant to counter me casting my creature spell as that phase has passed (correct me if I am wrong). He then decided to do this but did admit that the phase had passed so technically he couldn't counter it but that I hadn't waited long enough for him to decide whether to counter my creature spell. So my creature spell was cancelled and I then attacked. He did allow me to take my attack back though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do I have to wait before I can move phases, at which point the creature counterspell would have been impossible to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7210" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T20:06:09.753" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T20:06:09.753" Title="How long before I can move on to a different phase?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15026" CreationDate="2014-03-21T14:41:20.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;How long you wait doesn't matter&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I decided after a minute or so to play as creature so i had one to block. I then said shortly after probably 3-5 seconds i will attack with my inspired creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume you retained priority after casting your creature&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you're still in your main phase -- the stack isn't even empty -- but you can still say &quot;I attack with my inspired creature&quot; as you did. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are doing is &lt;em&gt;proposing a shortcut&lt;/em&gt; consist of: Both remaining players passing priority until the Declare Attackers Step, then declaring your inspired creature as an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He can accept your shortcut in whole, or he can interrupt it at any point. In this case, he let you pass priority, then he cast a Counter spell. What he did is perfectly legitimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now as i understand when i move on to attacking phase he can't then play an instant to counter me casting my creature spell as that phase has passed (correct me if i am wrong). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the creature spell resolved, it's too late to counter it. But nothing in what you said indicates this has happened. You can ask &quot;Resolve?&quot; to make this happen&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exception: Playing unduly slow can result in penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By the rules, you regain priority after casting a spell if you cast it when you had priority. However, in tournaments, this rule is modified. You are assumed to have passed priority after casting a spell unless you have explicitly retained it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hadn't retained priority, you wouldn't be able to do anything, including proposing a shortcut. Your statement that you were attacking would have been completely meaningless.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are in a tournament and you didn't explicitly retain priority, he has priority and he must do something. Usually, saying &quot;pass&quot; or &quot;ok&quot;. This moves the game forward, allowing the spell to resolve. Asking &quot;resolve?&quot; would remind him of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are outside of a tournament or if you explicitly retained priority, saying &quot;Resolve?&quot; proposes the following shortcut: All players pass priority until the spell resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T18:27:27.137" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T18:27:27.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15029" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15031" CreationDate="2014-03-21T14:46:18.507" Score="3" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Face the Hydra&lt;/em&gt; is a special game with special rules which can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/Face_the_Hydra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that a spell that deals direct damage to a player cast on the hydra will deal the damage to one of its head. The same applies to trample damage, and so ons, for damages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is the hydra considered a player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have a creature that gets +1/+1 counters each time it deals damage to a player. Would that ever be triggered since you attack its heads directly?&#xA;What if that creature was unblockable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6765" LastEditorUserId="13100" LastEditDate="2019-04-18T02:08:19.310" LastActivityDate="2019-04-18T02:08:19.310" Title="When is the hydra considered a player with the &quot;Face the Hydra&quot; deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15026" CreationDate="2014-03-21T14:59:33.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic is not a game about reflexes. All timing is decided by priority, which one player has at all times and is passed around the table in turn order many &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; times in a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to cast your spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place your spell on the stack, make decisions, pay costs, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may optionally hold priority and do something else, such as cast another spell or activate an ability (you must somehow declare that you are holding priority if you do this). Repeat steps 2-3 as desired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority to the next player in the turn order. They may cast a spell or activate an ability. If they do, they pass priority back to you afterwards. If they don't, they pass priority to the next player in the turn order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once each player has passed priority without doing anything, the object on the top of the stack (spell or ability) resolves. If there isn't an object present on the stack, instead the turn moves to the next step or phase of the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process is &lt;em&gt;slightly&lt;/em&gt; different if it's not your turn at step 1, but not much. Most of this whole priority-passing is glossed over in most of the turns of most games (particularly since the vast majority of the time, everybody is passing priority without doing anything; you can't move from your Upkeep to your Draw step without a round of priority passing, for example, nor from your End step to your Cleanup step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to the question of &quot;how long&quot; you need to wait to consider priority passed back to you, well... that's a matter of communication. If you have any reason to believe your opponent might respond to your spell, it's polite to explicitly ask whether they have a response before continuing with your turn. If you don't give your opponent an opportunity to respond, they're well within their rights to back you up to the point where they &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have been given priority when you blaze forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a casual game between friends, it's up to the group to decide whether you've already given sufficient opportunity, or whether you should roll back anyway and allow the counter. It's just a game, and it's unlikely anything is riding on the outcome. In a tournament setting, the answer to miscommunication is always -- &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; -- to call a judge. Mediating this kind of situation is exactly the sort of reason tournaments have judges in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you call a judge, explain the situation. Give facts, and try to be as accurate and complete as you can. Your opponent(s) should do the same if there's a dispute. The judge will make a call, possibly fixing the board state (this depends on the tournament level and the exact error that occurred, and is defined in the JAR and IPG documents judges use) and/or handing out warnings/etc. at higher levels of play (again, depending on the exact error that occurred).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you disagree with the judge's ruling for some reason, you may appeal to the tournament's head judge. If the tournament has no WotC registered judges, the tournament organizer is the head judge. The head judge's ruling is final, even if it directly contradicts the game rules (we hope it doesn't, though!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T17:54:16.227" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T17:54:16.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15029" CreationDate="2014-03-21T15:32:49.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;is the hydra considered a player?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is a player as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For instance, I have a creature that gets +1/+1 counters each time it deals damage to a player. Would that ever be triggered since you attack its heads directly?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures attacking heads directly deal damages to the heads they attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures not attacking heads directly attack the player as normal. However, damage that would be dealt to the player is dealt to a head &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt;. As such, you never actually deal any damage to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the attackers deal damage to the heads. The heads are creatures, not players. The ability in question would not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What if that creature was unblockable?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't make any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-21T18:38:43.540" LastActivityDate="2014-03-21T18:38:43.540" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15035" CreationDate="2014-03-21T16:00:59.770" Score="12" ViewCount="37892" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always find finishing off my opponent tricky in &lt;code&gt;Nine Men's Morris&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they have 3 pieces and can fly, how do I guarantee a mill to secure the win? What's the minimum number of pieces I can do this with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-05-06T12:32:08.753" LastActivityDate="2021-05-06T12:32:08.753" Title="How to win at Nine Men's Morris" Tags="|nine-mens-morris|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4858" CreationDate="2014-03-21T23:03:19.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always played red. I just stick a couple of &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=433149&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nevinyrral's Disk&lt;/a&gt;s in, sure its going to take all the creatures, artefacts and enchantments. Team it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSafe%20Haven%5d&quot;&gt;Safe Haven&lt;/a&gt; then hide your biggest slugger before setting off the bomb. I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBogardan%20Phoenix%5d&quot;&gt;Bogardan Phoenix&lt;/a&gt; (comes back into play if placed into the graveyard) which allows me not to worry too much if I have to set it off and be left with nothing on the table. I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFiery%20Mantle%5d&quot;&gt;Fiery Mantle&lt;/a&gt; which comes back to your hand if it hits the graveyard and allows me to pump up any character to do some serious damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've built my deck to be able to achieve 3-4 turn victories but also to go toe to toe for 30 turns with a white deck with protection. Inclusions of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirror%20Universe%5d&quot;&gt;Mirror Universe&lt;/a&gt; (swap life with your opponent) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bZuran%20Orb%5d&quot;&gt;Zuran Orb&lt;/a&gt; (sacrifice a land: gain 2 life) will keep you plugging if things get dire. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7215" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-21T17:59:09.863" LastActivityDate="2019-05-21T17:59:09.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15032" CreationDate="2014-03-22T07:16:11.947" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't guarantee a win. In a 1996 paper called &lt;a href=&quot;http://library.msri.org/books/Book29/files/gasser.pdf&quot;&gt;Solving Nine Men's Morris&lt;/a&gt;, Ralph Gasser describes how he used search techniques to determine that, given best play, the game of nine men's morris should end in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In figure 11 of that paper, he gives a graph of the percentage of won positions for the player to move, against the number of stones each has on the board. The highest percentage of won positions is 83% when the player to move has 3 stones against 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data also reveals that a player with 3 stones left cannot force a win against an opponent with 6 or more stones left. Although many of those positions should still end in draws, rather than wins for the player with more stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player is much more likely to be able to force a win when they have 7 or more stones left, than when they get down to 6. A player with 4 stones against 3 can only force a win if it is their go, and they can immediately make a mill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this assumes two players who are playing completely optimally, which is not usually the case. In 1990 six games were played between the British champion Mike Sunley and a heuristics-based computer program. Two games were drawn and four were won by the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T18:17:56.860" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T18:17:56.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-22T09:28:36.130" Score="3" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suture%20Priest&quot;&gt;Suture Priest&lt;/a&gt; creature that says &amp;quot;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control, you may gain 1 life.&amp;quot;&#xA;and I currently have all 4 of them in the battlefield. Then I cast another creature and : Do I get 1 or 4 life? Does that effect trigger for every priest or just once? thanks for help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7218" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-03-22T17:17:29.893" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T13:51:13.137" Title="Do Triggered effects stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15036" CreationDate="2014-03-22T12:26:17.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get four lifes in total: one when each of the four triggered abilities resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you have four copies of Suture Priest on the battlefield, you have four copies of the triggered ability. Each time the event a triggered ability is indicating happens, it triggers. Since you have four copies, it trigger four times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is no rule that stops several copies of the same triggered ability to trigger at the same time, they all work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T13:51:13.137" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T13:51:13.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13657" CreationDate="2014-03-22T19:47:54.607" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strategies vary based on which expansions are being used and the number of players in the game.  For purposes of this answer, I'll assuming you're using ONLY the base game and Daybreak (which is my favorite way to play BSG), and have a full complement of 7 players (including a Cylon Leader).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, Battlestar is a resource management game.  For the humans it means spending resources evenly as the game progresses.  Resources are skill cards, fuel, food, morale, population, (lack of a) mutiny card, (lack of) enemy ships in space, (lack of) damage to Galactica, raptors, and vipers, nukes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually, if human are losing too often, it's because they're not using some of their resources properly.  What does this mean?  Well, after a loss take a look at what unconsumed resources you have.  Maybe population is still in blue when you run out of food?  In this case you should have spent more population (letting civilian ships die) to save cards for food checks.  Maybe Galactica was undamaged at the end, in which case you should have spent less time shooting things in space.  It may seem counter intuitive, but you have to let a lot of bad things happen (e.g. intentionally fail skill checks), to have the resources later when you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You check/validate your resources by how far you've progressed on the jump track.  So, based on jump track/jump distance you can evaluate where you 'should be' on resources.  Fuel is an easy one to see, and can be used as a guide, as it tends to steadily drop throughout the game as you jump.  The same should occur for other resources.  If you're halfway through the game, and all of your resources aren't at half, then start consuming the higher ones to save lower ones.  Remember, things like mutiny cards in your hands work the same way.  If half of the players have mutiny cards halfway through, that's fine, don't spend them, but if everyone has one at the halfway mark, half of you should spend them to get back up.  About 3/4 of the way through the game, let Galactica stay damaged, don't repair it, if you can avoid it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Demitrius, the most important space is the Captain's Cabin.  For one action you can get everyone a card.  In a 7 player game, this is very powerful.  It's even better to have someone sit there and be XO'ed to do it twice for effectively 1 action.   Be careful about spending time searching the mission deck and running those missions.  In a 7 player game (early), this is probably fine, as the threats haven't built up and you can get some extra distance, but actions are everything, so consider the opportunity cost of not spending them elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For games with 3-5 players, I would consider ignoring Demitrius (including the cabin), it simply takes too long and with fewer players it's harder to hit the skill targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carefully decide weather or not to play mutiny cards.  They again cost you an action, and if your only purpose is to avoid the brig, reconsider if being in the brig is all that bad.  You still draw cards, you still can XO (executive order), and the president can still use quorum cards, PLUS you don't draw crisis cards.  This increases your effective skill-card-draws per crisis card draw.  If it happens, consider leaving someone in the brig at least until people are starting to reach their skill card limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things don't change too much for the non-Earth destinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't over-pass your skills checks, this is a waste of resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intentionally fail at least 50% of skill checks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your Admiral is not a Cylon (most important)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure your President is not a Cylon (less important).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;BE&lt;/em&gt; Presidential, 1 resource for one action (e.g. Inspirational Speech) is VERY powerful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't waste too much time hunting for Cylons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trust&lt;/em&gt; each other.  If you don't, the Cylons have already won.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always XO.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advancing the jump track is more important than &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the early FTL jump if you have extra population for that stage in the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And most importantly, HAVE FUN!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastEditorUserId="587" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T15:40:09.237" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T15:40:09.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-23T00:37:28.780" Score="5" ViewCount="426" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A and Player B both have 5 Keepers in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B has 1 Creeper (Prevents Player B from winning)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A plays the goal card 5 Keepers which goes like this (goal cards, are the criteria met to win)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If someone has 5 or more Keepers on the table, then the player with the most Keepers in play wins.&#xA;In case of a tie, continue playing until a clear winner emerges.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Player A win or does the game continue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7223" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T14:23:20.080" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T15:31:17.050" Title="Conflict in Fluxx" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15039" CreationDate="2014-03-23T01:26:28.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that &quot;until a clear winner emerges&quot; is met due to the creeper. Player A should win, as player B cannot be a winner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T01:26:28.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-23T03:36:58.967" Score="0" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say a player casts a spell, completely allows it to resolve, and accepts its consequences - &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; realises that was a bad idea, or there was something better to do. That player realises there was a better card to play, or that the spell will do something they don't want to happen, such as deal enough damage to that player to kill them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the caster have the opportunity to go back and fix that mistake (and to stay alive), even though they already accepted the consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7225" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T04:59:37.817" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T15:21:02.333" Title="Can a card be un-cast, if the player realises it was a bad decision?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15039" CreationDate="2014-03-23T04:44:27.997" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does Player A win or does the game continue?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of a tie, continue playing until a clear winner emerges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's clearly a tie in the number of Keepers, so you must continue playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A is not &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt; player with the most Keepers&lt;/em&gt;. He's merely &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; player with the most Keepers&lt;/em&gt;. It is explicitly stated that the game does not end in the event of a tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could have been written &amp;quot;If someone has 5 or more Keepers on the table, and if a player has more Keepers than any other players, that player wins.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To win, one must have 5 or more Keepers [&lt;em&gt;satisfied&lt;/em&gt;], and one must be the player with the most Keepers [&lt;em&gt;not satisfied&lt;/em&gt;].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B can't win because he has insufficient Keepers and because he has a Creeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A can't win because he has insufficient Keepers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GendoIkari's answer is self-contradictory. &amp;quot;Until a clear winner emerges&amp;quot; only applies if the players keep playing, but he suggests that Player A should win rather than keep playing. That rules out letting Player A win. The only way around that self-contradiction is to keep playing until the tie is broken (or the goal changes, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T20:29:09.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15042" CreationDate="2014-03-23T13:10:28.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on what you mean by &quot;misused&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card was cast illegally, such as trying to Shock a creature with Hexproof, the game is rewound to the point immediately before the spell was cast. This does depend on how much time has passed- if so much time has passed that fixing it would be difficult, just correct anything currently illegal and continue the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player just did something silly, like trying to Shock a creature that actually had 3 toughness because of a Glorious Anthem, the answer is no in any tournament setting. Once you've taken an action, you can't suddenly change your mind. In casual play, it's up to the opponent. If the opponent decides it's sporting to allow take-backs, they can allow them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T13:10:28.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-23T13:14:22.083" Score="2" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vastwood Hydra is on the field, 7/7 atm (7 x +1/+1 counters). My adversary blocks it for combined strength of 7, all creatures in combat die when the damage resolves.&#xA;When Vastwood Hydra dies I get to distribute all it's +1/+1 counters among my creatures.&#xA;I designate my Kioras follower (2/2) as a recipient of a counter. My opponent decides to shock it for 2 damage (instant).&#xA;What I want to know is, what happens? What comes first, the counter or the shock? If the shock comes first and my 2/2 goes to graveyard, does the counter &quot;fizzle&quot; lacking a target, or do I still have a +1/+1 counter to distribute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7227" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-03-23T16:01:19.517" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T16:01:19.517" Title="+1/+1 counter, where does it go when my adversary bolts it's target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15046" CreationDate="2014-03-23T14:17:57.107" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vastwood%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Vastwood Hydra&lt;/a&gt; comes first if your opponent waits for the ability to resolve.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You distribute the counters upon resolution of the ability. This means that your opponent must choose to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; your followers, &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the Hydra ability resolves. The Hydra's ability doesn't use the word &amp;quot;Target&amp;quot;, so you need not declare which creatures get the counters until the resolution of the Hydra's ability. From the cards rulings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability that triggers when Vastwood Hydra dies &lt;strong&gt;doesn’t target any of the creatures&lt;/strong&gt;. You can choose to put counters on a creature with protection from green, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose how the counters will be distributed &lt;strong&gt;when the ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, your opponent must choose what creature to target with Shock while the &amp;quot;distribute Vastwood Hydra's&amp;quot; ability is on the stack. If you have multiple 2/2s, your opponent can only Shock one and you can distribute the counters on the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T14:17:57.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15049" CreationDate="2014-03-23T18:27:40.633" Score="11" ViewCount="3804" Body="&lt;p&gt;How should the &quot;and/or&quot; text of a card be interpreted? For example on a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNahiri%27s%5d%2b%5bWrath%5d&quot;&gt;Nahiri&amp;#39;s Wrath&lt;/a&gt; the text reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nahiri's Wrath deals damage equal to the total converted mana cost of the discarded cards to each of up to X target creatures and/or planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For the remainder of this question, let's fix X at 2 to keep things simple.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the &quot;and/or&quot; be interpreted such that the effect is applied to a combination of targets the player chooses. That is to say for Nahiri's Wrath the player could perform one of the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of &lt;strong&gt;two target creatures&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of &lt;strong&gt;two target planeswalkers&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of &lt;strong&gt;one target creature and one target planeswalker&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should the card's effect be expanded and applied to both sides of the &quot;and/or&quot;. With this interpretation the player would have to the following two options when playing Nahiri's Wrath:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of X target creatures &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of X target planeswalkers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of X target creatures &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; Nahiri's Wrath deals damage to each of X target planeswalkers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion stems from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=378477&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comments on the Pinnacle of Rage's discussion page&lt;/a&gt; (which was formerly formerly worded using the same phrasing) where some commenters have said things like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So this lets you do a total of 12 damage? 3 each to 2 target creatures AND 3 each to 2 target players, one of which could be a planeswalker? That's how the &quot;and/or&quot; works, right? You can choose. Otherwise it would just be &quot;or&quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7229" LastEditorUserId="7229" LastEditDate="2018-05-06T23:01:18.147" LastActivityDate="2018-05-06T23:01:18.147" Title="How should the &quot;and/or&quot; text of a card be interpreted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15048" CreationDate="2014-03-23T19:56:11.407" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must choose X different&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; targets, and the targets can be creatures and/or planeswalkers. With X=2,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can target two different creatures,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can target two different planeswalkers, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can target a creature and a different permanent that's a planeswalker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by a ruling for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPinnacle%20of%20Rage%5d&quot;&gt;Pinnacle of Rage&lt;/a&gt;: &quot;You must choose two legal targets to cast Pinnacle of Rage.&quot; (The ruling dates back to when Pinnacle of Rage still used the same wording about which you are asking.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.3. The same target can’t be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word “target” on a spell or ability. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-05-05T22:01:12.023" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T22:01:12.023" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14236" CreationDate="2014-03-23T21:38:58.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got an answer from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1139035/removal-of-red-camp-cards-from-the-camp-board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BBG forum&lt;/a&gt;. There is no explicit information about this in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homoludicus.org/naufragos/RulesENSmall.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;manual&lt;/a&gt;, neither in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.homoludicus.org/sites/default/files/FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spanish FAQ&lt;/a&gt;. Without specific rules, it is reasonable to admit that red cards that do not explicitly define a removal condition (such as #51) stay in the camp board until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-03-23T21:38:58.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15129" CreationDate="2014-03-23T23:38:48.947" Score="3" ViewCount="15921" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'd think all the rules for this game would be well established but I have a question about the movement of partial sequences between columns in the tableau. Lets say I have two columns with the values:&#xA;7C, 6H, 5C, 4D and 4H, 3C, 2D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to get the 4H and move it to a foundation pile so I take the 3C, 2D and move them onto the 4D of the first column. I've always played this way and I've yet to find a computer version that doesn't allow it but is that how it is supposed to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Microsoft help says - &lt;em&gt;&quot;You can also move sequentially organized runs of cards between columns. Just click the deepest card in the run and drag them all to another column.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; So I have to wonder if &lt;em&gt;deepest&lt;/em&gt; means you can only move the entire sequence or just the deepest desired card...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gutenberg.org/files/21642/21642-h/21642-h.htm#canfield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lady Cadogan's Illustrated Games of Solitaire or Patience&lt;/a&gt; actually says &lt;em&gt;&quot;If there be more than one card at the bottom of a row, all must be moved together or not at all.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (where row means column)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/klondike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/klondike&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;em&gt;&quot;If more than one card is face up on a tableau pile, all such cards must be moved as a unit.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=DS8VAAAAYAAJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Solitaire and Patience By George Hapgood 1920&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;em&gt;&quot;Any number of cards, provided that they form a complete sequence of alternating colors, may be transferred to the opposite colored card of the next higher rank, but parts of sequences may not be moved.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://openlibrary.org/works/OL15738025W/Patience&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Patience : a series of games with cards 3rd Edition by Ednah Dow Littlehale Cheney, Copyright 1894, Published 1895 by Lee and Shepard in Boston&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Appears as Triangle but only allows one card to be moved at a time - &quot;You cannot (as in Fooliana) change more than once card from one line to another at once;&quot;. This version of Triangle allows complete access to the stock. A 2 deck version appears under the name Staircase. Staircase allows any number of cards in a sequence to be moved. The 2nd edition in 1875 did not include Triangle. The 3rd edition notes that the previous edition contained only one game, Brunette and Blonde, that had an alternating color marriage rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mary Whitmore Jones's third series of collected Patience games from 1894 says &quot;a sequence of cards may be lifted bodily and transferred to where it fits&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=GTEOAAAAYAAJ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Games of Patience by Tarbart (1901)&lt;/a&gt; states says about Demon (1 deck Klondike) &quot;A sequence of cards may be played bodily at any time...&quot; but says about Triangle (2 deck Klondike) &quot;A sequence of cards, or any portion of a sequence, may be played bodily at any time...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://openlibrary.org/books/OL7004580M/Foster%27s_complete_Hoyle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Foster's Complete Hoyle - 1909&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&quot;If there is more than one card face up on any pile, they must be moved together or not at all.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/011206253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hoyle's Games - 1914&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;No partial movement - &quot;In this game the player is not allowed to borrow a card from one file unless it is the only card on that file, face up, or unless he can take all the cards that are face up together.&quot;&#xA;This book claims that Klondike is the 4 pile version (now commonly known as Canfield or Demon) was the original form and what we know as Klondike is a simplified form which is called &quot;Seven-Card Klondike&quot; in this book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you ever play where you can NOT move partial sequences around on the tableau? I know there are lots of variations - redeals, draw 3 vs 1, reuse foundation cards, etc but I haven't seen partial/full sequence movement categorized as a variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7232" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T20:33:48.033" LastActivityDate="2022-02-18T18:47:01.693" Title="Klondike Solitaire - moving partial sequences between columns" Tags="|solitaire|klondike-solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15052" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15053" CreationDate="2014-03-24T01:11:00.610" Score="4" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relevant moves are as follows.&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;England:&#xA;Denmark -&amp;gt; Kiel&#xA;Sweden Support Denmark Hold&#xA;North Sea Support Denmark Hold&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;Germany:&#xA;Berlin -&amp;gt; Kiel&#xA;Skagerrack -&amp;gt; Denmark&#xA;Blatic Sea Support Skagerrack -&amp;gt; Denmark&#xA;Helgoland Bight Support Skagerrack -&amp;gt; Denmark&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the support fail for Denmark because Denmark attempted to move to Kiel, even though it bounces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7233" LastEditorUserId="7233" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T01:16:49.687" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T02:39:42.667" Title="Clarification on Support in Diplomacy" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15052" CreationDate="2014-03-24T02:39:42.667" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The support fails. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/diplomacy.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the bottom right of page 7 in the rules.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A unit not ordered to move can be supported by a support order that only mentions its province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A unit ordered to move can only be supported by a support order that matches the move the unit is trying to make. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T02:39:42.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12004" CreationDate="2014-03-24T02:45:41.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Somewhat trivially, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.floc.net/dpjudge/?page=about_pure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pure&lt;/a&gt; variant has no stalemate lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a simple traditional variant of diplomacy. There are the usual&#xA;  seven countries. There are seven spaces on the board - one&#xA;  corresponding to each country - its home supply center. These spaces&#xA;  are all connected by land one with another. Initially, each player&#xA;  begins with one army in his home supply center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The objective of the game is to accumulate four supply centers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="277" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T02:45:41.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2014-03-24T02:49:04.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never heard of any variation that would not allow you to do this. Though the help text you quoted is ambiguous, I believe that &quot;deepest card&quot; refers to the &quot;deepest card that you want to move&quot;, not the &quot;deepest card in the entire column&quot;. If the computer itself that has such a help file allows you to do the partial-run move anyway, do you have a reason for thinking that there is any such variation that doesn't allow it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T02:49:04.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15062" CreationDate="2014-03-24T10:16:44.600" Score="4" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mother taught me a simple single player card game called Elevenses when I was young. I'm wondering: &lt;strong&gt;does my card game have a standard name?&lt;/strong&gt; I have not met many who have known of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with a suit 3x3 grid of playing cards from the top of a shuffled deck. The aim is to get rid of the cards in the deck by placing them over 2 cards on the grid that equal eleven when added together. The player can also place cards over three face cards on the grid. This must be done at least once and an odd number of times, otherwise you will be left with one card in the deck at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ace has the value of 1, and face cards have the value of 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7235" LastEditorUserId="21633" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T19:14:50.077" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T19:14:50.077" Title="Is there a standard name for the card game &quot;Elevenses&quot;?" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15042" CreationDate="2014-03-24T15:21:02.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would entirely depend on the type of game you're playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing in any sort of tournament or other &quot;serious&quot; venue, you're SOL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a casual setting, it would depend on your opponent, I suppose. If they agree to rewind, then you're good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to put a proper answer in, strict RAW says that once you've done it, you've done it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T15:21:02.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15058" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-24T18:00:32.657" Score="1" ViewCount="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the card game Nanuk, When the game is over and players are tallying up their points, can an Inuksuk be counted as a double card (a card with two animals on it)? Since it's a wild card, an Inuksuk can be used to finish a pair or a set. A double card is a pair on its own. So can an Inuksuk be a double, and hence a solo pair, and thus worth 1 point? Or can it be paired with a double to create 2 pairs and two points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T02:23:40.867" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T02:23:40.867" Title="During scoring, can an Inuksuk be a double?" Tags="|scoring|nanuk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2014-03-24T18:36:51.600" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 6-9 high card points, your main choices are to raise hearts (if you have three), bid one spade (if you have four), or bid 1NT if your hand is suitable (not an option with your lopsided hand). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not bid two diamonds or anything else at the level of two, because a &quot;2 over 1&quot; bid shows 10-12 points and an &quot;invitational&quot; hand (to game in a suit or no trump), if partner has more than a minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing &lt;strong&gt;weak&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;jump shifts,&quot; you may jump to &lt;strong&gt;three&lt;/strong&gt; diamonds on six or seven diamonds, basically as a pre-emptive move, on something like 3-6 high card points. This is a &quot;terminal&quot; call that discourages partner from seeking game. With eight high card points opposite an opener, your hand is too strong for such a preempt, and too weak for an invitation, so make the available one-level suit bid, which is one spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-03-24T18:49:40.923" LastActivityDate="2014-03-24T18:49:40.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15020" CreationDate="2014-03-24T20:15:02.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would make the following observation, that there are THREE blocs (not two). They are: Central Powers, Germany, Austria-Hungary, Ottoman Empire, 77 IPCs; Western Entente, Britain and France, 54 IPCs; &quot;fence sitters,&quot; U.S., Russia, and Italy 59 IPCs, in total. Although aligned with the Entente, the fence sitters basically had the balance of power. So game &quot;fixes,&quot; might be addressed at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russia:&lt;/strong&gt; Make it easier for the Central Powers to start the Russian Revolution and knock Russia out of the war by conquering Poland and one territory adjacent to Moscow (instead of three), or a total of three territories not adjacent to Moscow. That eliminates Russia's 25 IPCs. Also, the Central powers get to keep  with their IPCs for the conquered territories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;U.S.&lt;/strong&gt; It's not a given that the U.S. joins the war. One might make a rule that beginning with turn 3, the Western Entente gets an &quot;allowance&quot; of 10 (out of 20)  U.S. IPCs per turn, delivered to the UK. The Central Powers can permit this, or else they can &quot;interdict&quot; those IPCs, by declaring unrestricted submarine warfare. Beginning with the turn on which &quot;interdiction&quot; occurs, the U.S. player may join the war on any turn when in rolls a six, but it can build units only U.S. territory. Sensible Central Powers players would often opt for the 10 IPC allowance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Italy:&lt;/strong&gt; Italy didn't make a decision (in real life) until 1915. At that time, force both sides to &quot;bid&quot; for Italy's services, using IPCs. The Central powers had the advantage, insofar as they bid for Italy (in real life) using Austrian territory (specifically Tyrol). The Western powers can outbid them by offering Tyrol and Trieste, but if they don't &quot;pay off&quot; by controlling those territories at the end of X turns, Italy re-joins the Central powers. If the Central Powers capture Venice (as they nearly did after Caporetto), or any other Italian territory, Italy goes back to being neutral, minus its lost province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;fence sitters&quot; can win if their IPCS of 20 (U.S)+ Russia (25, minus Central power occoupied territories)+ Italy (14IPCs, plus territories handed over in the bidding war) exceed that of both the Allies and Central Powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T19:37:23.053" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T19:37:23.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15063" CreationDate="2014-03-24T23:25:13.590" Score="1" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking about getting into magic. I want to play in the standard format. The decks I want to play are either mono black devotion or mono blue devotion. My question is with the rotations how long will these decks be playable? I don't want to spend the money and then have a deck I can't play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7237" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T14:12:39.980" Title="Are these decks going to be playable?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-03-28T08:23:33.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15056" CreationDate="2014-03-25T07:08:01.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name is &lt;strong&gt;Elevens&lt;/strong&gt; from wiki:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elevens&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elevens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T07:08:01.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15061" CreationDate="2014-03-25T09:34:40.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Devotion came out in the Theros block so any card with &quot;Devotion to&quot; will be in standard until about fall 2015 when the Theros block cards will no longer be playable in standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the cards you will be getting for these decks will have been printed in the Return to Ravnica block (Pack rat, Nightveil Specter) and you will only be able to play these in standard till fall 2014 (whenever the set after M15 comes out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing what cards will come out in the fall 2014 set, these decks may either still be around, dominate all the tournaments or just drop off the radar once the cards from Return to Ravnica block drop out of standard. Standard is always about investing into new cards every year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards you do buy can be used for either Modern or for trading off for newer cards so investment is never fully lost, you just may never get what you paid (but my guess is the Gods will still have value after standard since they can also be used for commander)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4867" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T09:34:40.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15061" CreationDate="2014-03-25T14:12:39.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing in Standard tournaments, you're almost guaranteed to have cards rotate out of your deck(s) every October. The only way to avoid the 'problem' is to replace older cards in your deck with newer cards before rotation happens... which still has you spending money to keep your deck up-to-date, it's just a matter of when you make the changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative would be to get into Modern, Legacy, or Vintage formats instead of Standard. While the three non-rotating tournament formats &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; have a higher initial price to get into, the lack of rotation means that once you've created your deck, you'll likely be viable for as long as you want to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As new cards get introduced, Modern/Legacy/Vintage decks occasionally still need updating, it's just not because the deck &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; cards; rather, the deck needs to be updated to stay competitive when new threats or answers are introduced. For example, with the introduction of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rest%20in%20Peace&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt;, Dredge decks have to be more careful about sideboard (or even mainboard!) hate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen a number of people who start playing Standard, and as their cards rotate out, they build up Modern decks from the ex-Standard cards. This doesn't avoid the 'problem' of updating your Standard deck(s), but it does keep most of your cards you've spent money on useful. Or, you could simply sell the cards shortly before rotation to try and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=recoup&quot;&gt;recoup&lt;/a&gt; some of your losses. (And if the card that's about to rotate has become big in a non-rotating format, you may not even end up losing money at all!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option would be to use the cards that have rotated out of your Standard decks to build casual decks, such as for EDH/Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-03-25T14:12:39.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15079" CreationDate="2014-03-25T18:38:05.743" Score="2" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Feel free to edit my question, English is not my primary language]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legacy is a format with a pretty high number of cards available. It is arguably the format with the most possible different strategies possible. Being an eternal format with very low card renewing, I think it is fair to say that decks with names like Canadian Treshold, Reanimator, Jund, StoneBlade(any) or Burn are not subject to drastic, heavy changes or stop being played anymore in the next years. That is why I feel secure posting a question which will contain specific deck names, assuming their strategies will never change. A discard will always be a discard, land destruction won't radically change from what it is now and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What brings me here is this: How to handle massive proactive control (discard, land-destruction and creature killing (mostly by eddict effect)). Yes, I'm talking about Pox (or SmallPox, if you prefer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a distruption-based aggro deck, if I don't run counter-Magic at all because I'm purely creature based, how should I handle the adventure of the game? Somewhat playing as Maverick would be relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the importance of a sideboard. I know cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=290543&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loxodon smiter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240033&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sigarda, Host of Herons&lt;/a&gt; exists. I know the mechanics my decks can use to disrupt my opponent (activating knight &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370379&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Knight of the reliquary&lt;/a&gt; in response to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4944&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wasteland&lt;/a&gt; targeting my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202571&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Savannah&lt;/a&gt; and so on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how to counter the goal of proactive control deck, which is to get me out of fuel and making me unable to come back from it. Should I keep my cards in my hand, creating a card advantage, should I try to go &quot;all-in&quot; and play as much creature as possible, trying to race his life points before he's able to completely shutdown my battlefield with his many warth effects and eddict effects. Maybe it would be preferable to do the smart plays, playing just the cards that respond to his moves, hoping each turns he will not rip my hand, leaving me unable to keep advantage on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly by my own, little experience, I tend to rush him, overwhelm his board, making him unable to deal with the number of creatures I'm able to put into play. Sometimes it works, sometimes he warth and I have no other choices than wait for my slow and painfull death, unable to comeback. That is not a strategy, it is trying to overrun the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I want to know how to deal with the problem.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br/&gt;&#xA;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T14:33:27.920" Title="Counter heavy proactive control with a distruption-based aggro deck in the Legacy format" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15069" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15436" CreationDate="2014-03-26T16:27:25.933" Score="2" ViewCount="749" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Android: Netrunner, there are several Events that specify that a Runner make a run on a particular server. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Account Siphon&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make a run on HQ. If successful, instead of accessing cards you may force the Corp to lose up to 5 [Credits], then you gain 2 [Credits] for each credit lost and take 2 tags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01036&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Maker's Eye&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make a run on R&amp;amp;D. If successful, access 2 additional cards from R&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How are these runs affected if the run is moved to a different server before it's finished?&lt;/strong&gt; For instance, using an effect like the only subroutine on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02073&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bullfrog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You and the Runner secretly spend 0 [Credit], 1 [Credit] or 2 [Credits]. Reveal spent credits. If you and the Runner spent a different number of credits, move Bullfrog so that it is the outermost piece of ice protecting another server (the Runner continues the run from this new position and is now running on this new server).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or, the ability on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04025&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Copycat&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you pass a piece of ice, you may trash Copycat. If you do, choose another rezzed copy of that piece of ice protecting any server. The run continues as if you had just passed the chosen piece of ice (you are now running from the new position).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens if I play Account Siphon, and then a Bullfrog moves me onto Archives?&lt;/strong&gt; What if the run is successful, but on Archives? Do I still trigger the effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens if I play The Maker's Eye, and Copycat onto a remote server?&lt;/strong&gt; If it's successful, do I access the cards in the remote, as well as two cards from R&amp;amp;D? Just the remote, and The Maker's Eye is wasted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming/hoping these answers will have some central ruling in common that will allow me to intuitively make rulings on similar interactions in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T10:01:34.510" Title="How do &quot;Run&quot; Events interact with effects that change the server you're running on?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15069" CreationDate="2014-03-26T17:17:33.400" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Account Siphon, you do not get to trigger the effect. As you mention, AS states when &quot;If successful, instead of accessing cards...&quot; - so you have may have made a successful run (first condition, check), but you are not accessing any cards from HQ so you cannot siphon (but you can access cards in the server you end up in).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same holds for Maker's Eye - if you are warped away from R&amp;amp;D, then your run is a success but the trigger for Maker's Eye is not fulfilled (which is &quot;Make a run on R&amp;amp;D. If successful...&quot;), the &quot;if successful&quot; requires the run to actually hit R&amp;amp;D not any server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, if you play Maker's Eye (which forces you to run R&amp;amp;D), and the Corp rezs and triggers Bullfrog, and places you on a remote server, after you pass the next ICE on that server, you could Copycat back to R&amp;amp;D to fulfill the ME condition!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T17:17:33.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-26T18:15:00.560" Score="2" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that Blackjack in Atlantic City casinos is regulated by the state and that they determine the rules of Blackjack that all the casinos must adhere to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I would like to know:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the dealer required to stand on a soft 17?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many decks are used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the shoe normally played to the last card or is it shuffled before being empty?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many times can you split?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you double down after splitting?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you double down after splitting Aces?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can a split Ace be dealt more than one card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does a split Ace and ten value card count as Blackjack or 21?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the dealer has Blackjack and you have 21 (but not Blackjack) do you lose the hand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the payout for Blackjack?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is insurance offered? How much does it cost?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is late or early surrender offered?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the minimum bet per hand at the major Atlantic City casinos?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By how much can you increase or decrease your bet between hands?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T22:28:38.447" Title="What are the Blackjack rules used in Atlantic City casinos?" Tags="|house-rules|blackjack|betting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15075" CreationDate="2014-03-26T20:36:48.140" Score="2" ViewCount="29715" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you allowed to attack creatures instead of a player during the combat phase? Because it seems to me it's much more easier to block (because you can actually choose what you attack) than to just throw all your critters at the player and hope the right ones don't get blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7249" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-28T17:40:24.333" LastActivityDate="2017-09-28T17:40:24.333" Title="Are you allowed to attack creatures instead of a player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15073" CreationDate="2014-03-26T21:12:42.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot. You can only attack a player, or a planeswalker he or she controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1. First, the active player declares attackers. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. To declare attackers, the active player follows the steps below, in order. If at any point during the declaration of attackers, the active player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &quot;Handling Illegal Actions&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;508.1a The active player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will attack. The chosen creatures must be untapped, and each one must either have haste or have been controlled by the active player continuously since the turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;508.1b If the defending player controls any planeswalkers, or the game allows the active player to attack multiple other players, the active player announces which player or planeswalker each of the chosen creatures is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T21:12:42.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15073" CreationDate="2014-03-26T21:19:05.480" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since this is a basic rules question, a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot;&gt;the basic rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In your combat phase, you choose which of your creatures will attack, and you &#xA;  choose who or what they will attack. Each one can attack your opponent or one of your opponent’s planeswalkers, &lt;strong&gt;but not any of his or her creatures&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say it'd be easier to just attack creatures. Sure - and that's kind of the point. If you could just use a bigger creature to kill off a smaller creature, combat wouldn't be nearly so interesting, and the game would lose a lot. You really do have to work out how to manage to attack your &lt;em&gt;opponent&lt;/em&gt; and get through without losing too many creatures or leaving yourself vulnerable. It's more work, but it's part of what makes the game interesting and challenging, and gives you an edge if you're better at it than your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T21:19:05.480" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15071" CreationDate="2014-03-26T22:28:38.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blackjack-authority.com/game-guide/atlantic-city.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Random article from Google&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stand on soft 17&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eight decks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No mention of shoe emptying rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Splitting up to 3 times (total of 4 hands)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double down after splitting is allowed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not explicitly mentioned but unlikely due to one card after split Ace&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One card each after splitting an ace (and no resplit)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ace and ten after split is 21&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dealer does check for Blackjack, so 21 never occurs vs Blackjack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blackjack pays 3 to 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insurance is allowed and pays 2 to 1, typically insurance is up to half your original bet in this case (not explicitly mentioned)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Late surrender is allowed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No mention of minimum bet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No mention of betting rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2014-03-26T22:28:38.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15082" CreationDate="2014-03-27T13:48:39.157" Score="2" ViewCount="3078" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a mono-green overrun deck but I'm having some trouble responding to my opponent's non-creature cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against another creature-heavy deck it does very well, but up against anything with creature removal, control, discard, milling...it just gets stomped and I feel like I really don't have a response to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played a lot of blue in the past so I'm used to being able to have access to &quot;Counterspell&quot; to handle situations like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does green have a response to sorceries/instants that target you as a player, not your creatures? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T16:55:31.210" Title="Mono-Green Deck: Responding to Sorceries/Instants?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15068" CreationDate="2014-03-27T14:33:27.920" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, we know you are looking more for a heuristic for how to play your deck as is (or with minimal changes) against an attrition based opponent playing a pox/gate like deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim of your opponent's deck is to slow the game down as much as possible, so it can abuse its central cards to gain an incremental advantage (usually though the difference in how the values of your respective resources at the time &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pox&quot;&gt;Pox&lt;/a&gt; is cast are rounded). To beat this kind of strategy, you either need to come in underneath it, by killing it before it can accrue enough advantage, or go over the top of it, by negating the advantage it is trying to accrue (investing in resources it cant/doesnt interact with, such as artifacts/enchantments) or preventing it from gaining that advantage at all, such as with countermagic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious answer (for your deck) is to mulligan aggressively to aggressive hands with lots of efficient, aggressive creatures, and try to overwhelm them before they can lock you out. Creatures that you can discard to the battlefield (some of which you have mentioned) augment this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pox decks tend to rely heavily on buying back from their graveyards,finding a way to limit that (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scavenging%20ooze&quot;&gt;Scavenging ooze&lt;/a&gt; removing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodghast&quot;&gt;Bloodghast&lt;/a&gt;) should help make that strategy harder. On the subject, scavenging ooze provides a good way to rebuild following a wrath effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, as they attack against the axis of lands and creatures, combating that by playing artifacts, enchantments, and planeswalkers that make their strategy problematic is useful. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elspeth%2C%20Knight%20Errant&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Knight Errant&lt;/a&gt; is a very good planeswalker to consider for your deck, and the various swords (particularly &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20feast%20and%20famine&quot;&gt;Sword of feast and famine&lt;/a&gt;) will work well with her tokens to let you stay in the game with resources your opponent can't easily control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If land destruction is going to be an issue, fetchlands for basics for the first few turns may well be the best way to mitigate that. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pox&quot;&gt;Pox&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smallpox&quot;&gt;Smallpox&lt;/a&gt; wont be affected, but at least wasteland will have less impact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Silence&quot;&gt;Silence&lt;/a&gt; in your opponent's upkeep or drawstep could give you a valuable &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Walk&quot;&gt;Time Walk&lt;/a&gt; against them, allowing you to further establish yourself. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20souls&quot;&gt;Lingering souls&lt;/a&gt; will give you enough to work with to protect your bigger creatures from a few edict effects, particularly if you have black mana to flash it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any way, as a deck built around a board presence of a small number of highly effective creatures, for you to overcome a deck like this in terms of attrition. As is, your only option is to be aggressive and cross your fingers. This IS a strategy, and one that you can try to maximize. You know which of your cards are the most aggressive, and you can mulligan to try and get a hand that will kill your opponent quickly. A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mother%20of%20Runes&quot;&gt;Mother of Runes&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knight%20of%20the%20Reliquary&quot;&gt;Knight of the Reliquary&lt;/a&gt; reliant hand will probably struggle, but other hands with more aggressive creatures would do better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the possibility of making some changes, the above options should be plenty of food for thought, it is worth bearing in mind though that every advantage gained here is potentially (I would say almost certainly) a loss in another match-up. The minimal impact would probably be some &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Silence&quot;&gt;Silence&lt;/a&gt;s, or to consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20souls&quot;&gt;Lingering souls&lt;/a&gt; and/or an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elspeth%2C%20Knight%20Errant&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Knight Errant&lt;/a&gt; or 2, with Swords to back up your tokens. I can't tell you the best combination, but these are all the options I can think of for ways to combat this strategy. It's not for a tournament, so you have plenty of room for experimentation and finding what works best for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T14:33:27.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2014-03-27T14:37:44.413" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They way it should be handled is having a strategy that either ignore non creature permanent or that is fast enough to not care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T14:37:44.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2014-03-27T15:12:55.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Against removal, try Hexproof (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ranger%27s%20Guile&quot;&gt;Ranger&amp;#39;s Guile&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheltering%20Word&quot;&gt;Sheltering Word&lt;/a&gt;) or Indestructible (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mortal%27s%20Resolve&quot;&gt;Mortal&amp;#39;s Resolve&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Withstand%20Death&quot;&gt;Withstand Death&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T15:12:55.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15078" CreationDate="2014-03-27T15:15:17.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The format you're playing is very important to answer this question. Playing Standard, for example, limits your options to the most recent few sets, while on the opposite end of the spectrum, playing Vintage or Commander opens up nearly every card ever printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against removal, you can go for creatures with hexproof/shroud (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thrun%2C%20the%20Last%20Troll&quot;&gt;Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scythe%20Tiger&quot;&gt;Scythe Tiger&lt;/a&gt;), means to grant hexproof/shroud (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Asceticism&quot;&gt;Asceticism&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aspect%20of%20Mongoose&quot;&gt;Aspect of Mongoose&lt;/a&gt;), protection (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chameleon%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Chameleon Colossus&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tel-Jilad%20Defiance&quot;&gt;Tel-Jilad Defiance&lt;/a&gt;), regeneration (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Experiment%20One&quot;&gt;Experiment One&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fortitude&quot;&gt;Fortitude&lt;/a&gt;), indestructible (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Predator%20Ooze&quot;&gt;Predator Ooze&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thornling&quot;&gt;Thornling&lt;/a&gt;), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against countermagic, green is probably the best solution (besides perhaps also playing blue for countering the countermagic); there are a number of cards in green which either can't be countered, or make something else uncounterable. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gaea%20Herald&quot;&gt;Gaea Herald&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistcutter%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Mistcutter Hydra&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Savage Summoning&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against discard and mill, green is probably second only to black in terms of re-using the graveyard. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gensis&quot;&gt;Gensis&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Witness&quot;&gt;Eternal Witness&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Creeping%20Renaissance&quot;&gt;Creeping Renaissance&lt;/a&gt;. Green and black are also the two colors of the Golgari guild, where the extremely powerful Dredge mechanic comes from (which involves self-mill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Green is also quite good at noncreature removal; in fact, the majority of targeted removal in green is noncreatures only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a full card pool, you have a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of options. For example, I have a mono-green Commander deck (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ezuri%2C%20Renegade%20Leader&quot;&gt;Ezuri, Renegade Leader&lt;/a&gt; elf tribal) which often plays like a blue deck, thanks to cards like Ezuri or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wirewood%20Symbiote&quot;&gt;Wirewood Symbiote&lt;/a&gt; protecting my creatures (regenerate or return to hand to protect from removal), Gaea's Herald or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cavern%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cavern of Souls&lt;/a&gt; stopping counterspells, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yeva%2C%20Nature%27s%20Herald&quot;&gt;Yeva, Nature&amp;#39;s Herald&lt;/a&gt; letting me take &amp;quot;turns&amp;quot; during my opponents' turns, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Survival%20of%20the%20Fittest&quot;&gt;Survival of the Fittest&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fauna%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Fauna Shaman&lt;/a&gt; searching for answers to threats (especially with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Masked%20Admirers&quot;&gt;Masked Admirers&lt;/a&gt; creating an engine), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sylvan%20Library&quot;&gt;Sylvan Library&lt;/a&gt; drawing cards, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-03-27T16:55:31.210" LastActivityDate="2014-03-27T16:55:31.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15083" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-27T18:53:49.327" Score="2" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of putting a Death Company in a drop pod for my next game. The HQ would be either a librarian or a reclusiarch in terminator armor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I put my HQ in the drop pod with the DC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can terminators be put in a drop pod? If yes, could I also decide to put the DC and HQ in a stormraven instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T17:39:08.617" Title="Putting a reclusiarch terminator in a drop pod?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15122" CreationDate="2014-03-28T16:54:03.970" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which of Geiger's ace moves is pictured on his ace card?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with all Yomi characters, Geiger has two possible options on his ace cards, with only one represented in the artwork.  Unlike other characters, it is not immediately obvious which one is being pictured.  What is the official intent on which move - Cycloid Revolution or Time Spiral Hurricane - is being shown on the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KNDR7.png&quot; alt=&quot;Geiger&amp;#39;s Ace&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T04:57:38.800" Title="Geiger's ace artwork" Tags="|yomi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14953" CreationDate="2014-03-29T01:07:13.053" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although in most systems the 'system' bid is one spade, in some systems, a case can also be made for rebidding 1NT in an effort to escape into two diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eg when playing 2/1, after 1H 1NT, opener will often rebid 2C, and now 2D by you would show a weak hand with long Diamonds. If opener rebids 2D you can pass or raise depending on exactly how strong your hand is. If partner rebids 2H he is showing six cards in hearts, and you can pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You give up the chance of finding a 4-4 spade fit (although if partner is strong he might dredge up a 2S reverse anyway), but in exchange, you greatly increase your chances of finding a playable contract. Eg if you have a 4-1-6-2 distribution, you will almost certainly end up in a 7 or 8 card fit if you respond 1NT, but if you choose 1S and partner rebids 2C (which is quite likely given your hand), there is no bid you will be happy to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7264" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T01:07:13.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15092" CreationDate="2014-03-29T01:54:09.250" Score="4" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many counters does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wickerbough%20Elder&quot;&gt;Wickerbough Elder&lt;/a&gt; get when returned to battlefield with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cauldron%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cauldron of Souls&lt;/a&gt;? Assume that it died with no counters on it and was targeted by Cauldron of Souls. I can't tell if gets two -1/-1 counters or one when returned to battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wickerbough%20Elder&quot;&gt;Wickerbough Elder&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wickerbough Elder enters the battlefield with a -1/-1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cauldron%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cauldron of Souls&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose any number of target creatures. Each of those creatures gains&#xA;persist until end of turn. (When it dies, if it had no -1/-1 counters&#xA;on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a&#xA;-1/-1 counter on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7265" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T03:31:26.683" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T16:47:42.093" Title="Cauldron of Souls and Wickerbough Elder" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2014-03-29T03:00:37.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wickerbough Elder will re-enter the battlefield with two -1/-1 counters in this situation. When it dies, it has two relevant abilities, it's own and the persist ability granted by Cauldron of Souls. Each of those abilities creates a replacement effect that causes it to enter the battlefield with a -1/-1 counter. Those abilities stack, so it enters with two -1/-1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T03:00:37.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15091" CreationDate="2014-03-29T06:16:31.767" Score="5" ViewCount="1126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A has 3 life left. Player B attacks with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dauthi%20Marauder&quot;&gt;Dauthi Marauder&lt;/a&gt; that has been enchanted by Player A's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Link&quot;&gt;Soul Link&lt;/a&gt;. Does player B win, or does nothing happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand, &amp;quot;whenever&amp;quot; makes it sound like the trigger (dealing damage) and the effect (healing damage) happen simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, combat damage doesn't go on the stack, while most other things do. So, possibly the combat damage is dealt, state-based actions are checked, and now it's too late for the Soul Link effect to heal player A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone knows which way is correct, my thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7098" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T22:54:11.770" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T22:54:11.770" Title="What happens when a creature enchanted with Soul Link would deal lethal damage to a player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15090" CreationDate="2014-03-29T06:23:30.140" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soul Link's ability is a triggered ability. From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based checks occur before the triggered ability is resolved, so Player A loses before gaining life from the Soul Link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T06:38:43.180" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T06:38:43.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15088" CreationDate="2014-03-29T06:24:49.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It enters with 2 -1/-1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wickerbough Elder enters the battlefield with a -1/-1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is equivalent to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As Wickerbough Elder enters the battlefield, place a -1/-1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, Persist is also an ability that redefines entering the battlefield (ETB) to add the placement of a counter on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are replacement effects that modify the same ETB event, so you apply them in the order of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the card in question, the first replacement effect applied redefines ETB to add the placement of a -1/-1 counter. The second replacement effect applied then further redefines ETB to add the placement of a -1/-1 counter. Two counters are now placed as it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T16:47:42.093" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T16:47:42.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15093" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T13:26:14.873" Score="3" ViewCount="3059" Body="&lt;p&gt;I specifically like to know whether the dealer reveals his hole card when you bust in Atlantic City casinos (if the dealer doesn't have Blackjack). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does the dealer just pull the card away without turning it over?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7247" LastActivityDate="2018-10-14T02:45:31.090" Title="In Blackjack, does the dealer reveal his hole card if you bust?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T13:36:04.170" Score="3" ViewCount="2314" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mate constantly plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Cruelties&quot;&gt;Master of Cruelties&lt;/a&gt; which can only attack alone,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Master of Cruelties isn't forced to attack, but if it does, it must do so alone. If you control another creature with an ability that says it must attack if able, that creature must attack and Master of Cruelties won't be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Master of Cruelties attacks alone, another creature entering the battlefield attacking will have no effect on it. Master of Cruelties continues to be an attacking creature. The other attacking creature will assign combat damage normally, regardless of whether Master of Cruelties's last ability triggers.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He always makes the mistake and attacks with multiple creatures with Master of Cruelties. What would the ruling be on this? I am unsure but I would guess maybe it just taps out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7210" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T16:52:35.320" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T16:52:35.320" Title="What if someone attacks with Master of Cruelties and another creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15094" CreationDate="2014-03-29T14:08:25.743" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attacking with Master of Cruelties and other creatures is an illegal action, so they should just undo it and declare attackers again. Specifically, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Declare_Attackers_Step&quot;&gt;rule 508.1c&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The active player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can't attack, or that it can't attack unless some condition is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of attackers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Illegal actions don't have consequences in game, they are just reversed. &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Handling_Illegal_Actions&quot;&gt;Rule 717.1&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player realizes that he or she can’t legally take an action after starting to do so, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T14:08:25.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2014-03-29T14:49:48.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original game was called &quot;Fore Par&quot; and it was manufactured by World Wide Games. It was a wooden board with, as noted 18 holes, bounded by wood bars and dowel pegs to make the shots trickier. The 'golf ball' was a wood disk which had a rubber ring around it so that it could bounce off of the pegs, bars, and frame around the board, so one could 'bank' shots in as in pool. World Wide Games was bought out by S&amp;amp;S World Wide, out of Colchester CT, who continued to manufacture the game for several years, along with &quot;bumper puck&quot;, a bumper pool style game which used the same pucks. Unfortunately, the company no longer makes either game, and I have been unable to find replacement pucks anywhere, which is sad, since I do have one of the games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7266" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T14:49:48.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T15:45:50.023" Score="3" ViewCount="920" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Five card majors&quot; is the foundation of the Standard American system. Yet rules are made to be broken under special circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that some bidders will adhere to &quot;five card majors&quot; in first and second position, but bid good four card majors (say, KQxx or better) in third and fourth position. The rationale appears to be that if your partner has already passed, you are the &quot;captain&quot; of the team, and the cost of misleading partner is less than if partner hadn't spoken. In this case, partner may use the Drury convention to find out if you are bidding a four or five card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another variation I've heard is that &quot;five card majors&quot; must apply to hearts, but need not apply to spades (with or without the third and fourth seat variation referred to above). The reason is that a bid of x spades beats out a bid of x hearts, but you need to go to x+1 hearts to beat out an x spades bid. So there is a greater need of the fifth card in hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which experts or variations basically follow Standard American but allow deviations from &quot;five card majors&quot; under particular circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2022-12-26T18:44:46.387" Title="When might a Standard American bidder &quot;bend&quot; the five card major rule?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15093" CreationDate="2014-03-29T16:07:58.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, you are not the only player at the table. So if ANYone stays, the blackjack dealer must reveal his hole card to that person/people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if everyone busts, that's a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T16:07:58.823" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1255" CreationDate="2014-03-29T16:12:22.757" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Remodel the Remodel Card for Gold (4+6)&#xA;2) Buy another Remodel during the buy phase to replace the trashed Remodel&#xA;3) precisely depending on the speed of the current game, shift your focus from Gold to Provinces, remodeling gold to provinces for the victory!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7267" LastActivityDate="2014-03-29T16:12:22.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15132" CreationDate="2014-03-29T17:41:30.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've gotten to the place where the run of the mill 'basic deck-building' guides offer no more help to me and yet the advanced deck building resources are still a little out of my reach. I am wondering if anyone can recommend any good resources to me that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize this is sort of a relative question, so I will provide a hypothetical question I might ask, given the level I am at in my current proficiency-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(this next paragraph is the set up for my hypothetical question)&#xA;Say, for example, I want to build a strong enchantment deck: I am at the point where I realize that enchantments have their weaknesses, most notably, a removal spell can completely ruin all the momentum you have built up in the game with a single card. So, when building this deck, an important aspect of it should be built around either countering or protecting against such a event. So I should think about something like hexproof or being able to return cards from my grave yard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: &lt;strong&gt;Whether I go for either hexproof or graveyard return, how many cards in my 60 card deck should I dedicate to this protection?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's an example of the type of question I would be likely to ask at my current skill level. I would love to know any resources that would be good for someone at my stage in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I am not looking for an answer to this hypothetical question and I am not looking for an answer such as, 'Put some in your deck and play it until it works.&quot;&#xA;*&lt;em&gt;I'm looking for a resource that provides, basic, guidelines for this type of thing, at this level.&lt;/em&gt;*&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7179" LastEditorUserId="7179" LastEditDate="2014-03-29T17:48:02.620" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T22:56:53.047" Title="Are there any good intermediate deck building resources available in magic" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-29T23:56:29.103" Score="4" ViewCount="2075" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellskite&quot;&gt;Spellskite&lt;/a&gt; on board. He is at 17 life, has one blue mana and one land in hand. I just resolved &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ad%20Nauseam&quot;&gt;Ad Nauseam&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angel's Grace&lt;/a&gt; and I have my entire deck in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slaughter%20Pact&quot;&gt;Slaughter Pact&lt;/a&gt;s, 15 lands, and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Storm&quot;&gt;Lightning Storm&lt;/a&gt; in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now because I'm a dumb I forget to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slaughter%20Pact&quot;&gt;Slaughter Pact&lt;/a&gt; before I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Storm&quot;&gt;Lightning Storm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing Lightning Storm, when I'm deciding how many lands I'm going to discard to add charge counters, is there any way to win the game? Let's say I'm in the situation where I can't play any more &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slaughter%20Pact&quot;&gt;Slaughter Pact&lt;/a&gt;s in answer to Lighting Storm, but Lighting Storm is still on stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7270" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T02:38:20.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:37:00.810" Title="Can I cast a Slaughter Pact on a Spellskite after I played Lightning Storm and I already discarded some lands?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12497" CreationDate="2014-03-30T00:47:56.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't speak from the rules, but here goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agreed that there should &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; be negative numbers. If there were, the rules would state it, and effects that have you damage yourself in the process would most likely include something involving a negative number. That said, this is opinion, and the absense of proof is not proof in and of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the logic that they have to exist because 300-500+1000=800 not 300-500+1000=1000 is simple math. This is commutative. You can change the order of the numbers however you want, but the outcome is the same. (1000+300)-500=800&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as infinity is concerned... I think this is just a situation where the ATK of a card becomes irrelevant. I'm not gonna bother doing the math if you get a 10,000 ATK beatstick. I only have 8000 Life Points at best, and you probably aren't attacking something over 2,000.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7271" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T00:47:56.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15097" CreationDate="2014-03-30T01:12:52.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, note that playing 4-card majors an opening of 1 Heart or 1 Spade is about 80% likely to be on a five card or longer suit. Thus players of a 4-card major system are already &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; playing five-card majors. Bridge theorists and players for the past century have determined that even this slight difference in probability (80% vs 100% for a f+ card bid suit) is significant enough to require a significantly different tool kit for accurate bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is then one simple pre-requisite for bending the &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; shows five or more cards rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have no desire to ever play with this partner again, or with any opponent or kibitzer present.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to the above is when all of the above conditions are met:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are in 3rd seat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do not have a no-trumpish hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have thoroughly discussed with partner the circumstances and hand types which make this bid, and even more importantly those which do not make this bid, and properly summarized those on your convention card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are playing a Drury variant which allows responder to inquire on suit length and hand strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T01:12:52.247" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15101" CreationDate="2014-03-30T01:48:54.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the situation you described (2 Slaughter Pacts and 15 lands in hand, and a Lightning Storm on the stack), you can definitely win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you started by targeting your opponent with Lightning Storm. Then you still have priority, so you cast Slaughter Pact targeting the Spellskite. You also discard 7 lands to Lightning Storm's ability (failing to choose new targets) so that it has 14 charge counters and still targets your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent gets priority after each of those abilities goes on the stack, so they can activate either Spellskite's or Lightning Storm's ability to redirect Lightning Storm, but each of your activations redirects it back to targeting them, so that doesn't matter. After you have resolved the ability 7 times, pass priority with only Lightning Storm and Slaughter Pact on the stack. Your opponent should then activate Spellskite's ability once to change Lightning Storm's target to Spellskite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that ability resolves and your opponent passes priority, you should pass priority and allow Slaughter Pact to resolve, then activate Lightning Storm's ability once to redirect it to target your opponent. Your opponent should then activate the ability using the one land card in their hand to redirect it back to you. You can then use one of your remaining lands to activate Lightning Storm's ability one final time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point in the game, your opponent has no non-land permanents, no mana, and no cards in hand. You have 1 Slaughter Pact and 6 lands in hand. The stack has a single Lightning Storm with 20 charge counters on it targeting your opponent. Once you both pass priority, Lightning Storm resolves and deals 23 damage to your opponent, who then loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T19:37:00.810" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:37:00.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-30T06:31:33.180" Score="5" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's clear from the rules that any player can use the red/yellow dice secured by a spell during their turn for resolving a task without using an Add red/yellow die Cards' effects. The rule also says, any player can use dice secured by a spell during their turn for use in a Roll - does that mean that, in case a red/yellow was secured by a spell before my turn starts, I may add the special die/dice into my dice pool and use them in my roll WITHOUT using the Add red/yellow die Cards' effects?&#xA;Thank You for any help in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7272" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T16:43:53.037" Title="Re-rolling secured red/yellow dice in Elder Sign?" Tags="|elder-sign|dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-03-30T06:45:37.807" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's really hard to say, since I haven't really tried all of the factions.  While there are no combinations I can tell you to avoid like the plague, I can give advice on what works.  You see, my girlfriend and I play a lot and we both have our favorite combos; hers being Robots and Dinosaurs which work really well together and mine being Zombies and Aliens.  Ninjas and Pirates seem to work really well together, too, and Wizards and Tricksters might be a combo worth trying.  But other than that, I can't really help you, so feel free to experiment and give us your feedback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7273" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T06:45:37.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15131" CreationDate="2014-03-30T14:00:48.457" Score="4" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got into Netrunner, and I'm reading up about it, and I keep seeing Astrochain being mentioned everywhere, but I can't find an explanation of it. I know it involves &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01081&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AstroScript Pilot Program&lt;/a&gt; in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7277" LastEditorUserId="7277" LastEditDate="2014-03-31T08:18:28.063" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T21:56:06.820" Title="What is Astrochain and how does it work?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15106" CreationDate="2014-03-30T16:43:53.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;latest copy&lt;/a&gt; of the rules is actually much clearer than the version that came in my set. Here's the quote, with the same emphasis as the rulebook, but parenthetical bits removed: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a die is secured on a Spell card, it remains there until &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  player chooses to use it to complete a task, removes it from the spell&#xA;  to roll it, or until another&#xA;  effect locks that die. For spells that&#xA;  secure multiple dice, the player may remove dice from it one at a time&#xA;  or all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T16:43:53.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15110" CreationDate="2014-03-30T18:33:23.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;chain&quot; is just using multiple AstroScripts to advance each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you score an AstroScript Pilot Program, you can use this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hosted agenda counter: Place 1 advancement token on a card that can be advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To advance a second one quickly. If that scores the second Astro, you can then advance a third...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T18:33:23.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15113" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-03-30T19:15:24.220" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T19:15:24.220" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T19:15:24.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15114" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-03-30T19:15:24.220" Score="0" Body="Summoner Wars is commonly know as &quot;the meeting of chess and Magic: The Gathering&quot;. In it, players command a faction (with its own soldiers, heroes and summoner) in a battle against each other where the winner is the one who kills the opponent's summoner. It is played in a 6x8 board with 2 players or in a 12x8 board with 4 players." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-03-31T02:06:02.557" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T02:06:02.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15115" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-03-30T19:34:44.723" Score="3" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Rats&quot;&gt;Crypt Rats&lt;/a&gt; be activated while in the graveyard?  There is no tap, which is why it seems possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, then why can cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rot%20Farm%20Skeleton&quot;&gt;Rot Farm Skeleton&lt;/a&gt; have activated abilities that are usable only while they are in the graveyard, yet do not explicitly say that &amp;quot;use this ability only when XXX is in your graveyard&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7278" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T21:08:55.280" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T21:08:55.280" Title="Can Crypt Rats be used from Graveyard" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15115" CreationDate="2014-03-30T20:12:07.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't use it from your graveyard. Abilities usually only work when the card is on the battlefield. Cards that do work from the graveyard are exceptions. See following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6b An ability that states which zones it functions in functions only from those zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T20:12:07.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15115" CreationDate="2014-03-30T20:20:21.387" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can only activate Crypt Rats on the battlefield. You can activate Rot Farm Skeleton from your graveyard because its ability specifies &amp;quot;from your graveyard.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, you can only activate an ability from the battlefield unless its text would only make sense in another zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6b An ability that states which zones it functions in functions only from those zones.[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6k An ability whose cost or effect specifies that it moves the object it’s on out of a particular zone functions only in that zone, unless that ability’s trigger condition, or a previous part of that ability’s cost or effect, specifies that the object is put into that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: Reassembling Skeleton says “{1}{B}: Return Reassembling Skeleton from your graveyard to the battlefield tapped.” A player may activate this ability only if Reassembling Skeleton is in his or her graveyard.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T20:20:21.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15120" CreationDate="2014-03-30T22:59:02.317" Score="6" ViewCount="2581" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the following in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%2C%20Tomb%20of%20Yawgmoth&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each land is a Swamp in addition to its other land types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kormus%20Bell&quot;&gt;Kormus Bell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Swamps are 1/1 black creatures that are still lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torpor%20Orb&quot;&gt;Torpor Orb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures entering the battlefield don't cause abilities to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Depths&quot;&gt;Dark Depths&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dark Depths enters the battlefield with ten ice counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{3}: Remove an ice counter from Dark Depths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Dark Depths has no ice counters on it, sacrifice it. If you do, put a legendary 20/20 black Avatar creature token with flying and indestructible named Marit Lage onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I am hoping happens is: The Urborg makes my Dark Depths also a swamp, so Kormus Bell makes it a creature, so then Torpor Orb makes its comes into play ability not trigger, so the Dark Depths will not enter play with any counters, allowing me to immediately sacrifice for 20/20 Marit Lage. Any reason that would not work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7280" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-03-31T00:34:42.367" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T00:25:12.070" Title="Combo question: urborg tomb of yawgmoth, torpor orb, kormus bell, dark depths = free Marit Lage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15119" CreationDate="2014-03-30T23:45:21.877" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It won't work.  Dark Depths' &amp;quot;Dark Depths enters the battlefield with ten ice counters on it.&amp;quot; ability is not a triggered ability; you can tell because it doesn't use the words &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at,&amp;quot; which are part of the definition of &amp;quot;triggered ability&amp;quot; in the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3c Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&amp;quot; and include (and usually begin with) the word &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at.&amp;quot; Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &amp;quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&amp;quot; and begin with the word &amp;quot;when,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;whenever,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at.&amp;quot; They can also be expressed as &amp;quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, the ability is just a plain old static ability (specifically, a replacement ability, but that doesn't matter here).  Thus, Torpor Orb won't stop the ice counters from being placed on your Legendary Snow Creature Land — Swamp, and your combo won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stick with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vampire%20Hexmage&quot;&gt;Vampire Hexmage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-03-30T23:57:12.847" LastActivityDate="2014-03-30T23:57:12.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15086" CreationDate="2014-03-31T04:57:38.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Game creator David Sirlin &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasystrike.com/forums/index.php?threads/what-move-is-shown-on-geigers-ace.9245/#post-304808&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;confirmed&lt;/a&gt; that the move pictured is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cycloid Revolution&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The art is Cycloid Revolution. It's sort of like Venom's huge ball super in GGXX.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be assumed that Time Spiral Hurricane would look similar to the Sonic Hurricane of Guile from Street Fighter, an inspiration for the character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T04:57:38.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15124" CreationDate="2014-03-31T13:58:58.813" Score="5" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Puzzle Strike &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasy-strike.com&quot;&gt;online&lt;/a&gt;, my friends and I encountered a sort of &quot;Sudden Death&quot; mode that activated after many turns of a particularly slow game, resulting in 2-Gems being anted each turn instead of 1-Gems.  We could not figure out exactly what the trigger of this was - likely some specific number of turns - or whether or not this rule was supposed to be used in the physical version.  I do not believe the rule exists in the Version 1 Rulebook.  &lt;strong&gt;What is the trigger of this Sudden Death mode that increases the ante, and is it universal to all versions of the game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T15:49:15.890" Title="Sudden Death Mode" Tags="|puzzle-strike|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15123" CreationDate="2014-03-31T15:49:15.890" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The online version uses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlin.net/ps/rules&quot;&gt;3rd edition rules&lt;/a&gt; which state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a 2-player game, the ﬁrst moment there are two  simultaneously&#xA;  empty stacks in the bank, Panic Time is  activated and everyone must&#xA;  ante 2-gems from then on.  Even if chips later return to bank and ﬁll&#xA;  up some stacks,  the game does not return to Normal Time. The ﬁrst &#xA;  moment there are three simultaneously empty bank  stacks, Danger Time&#xA;  is activated and everyone antes 3- gems from then on. The ﬁrst time&#xA;  four stacks are  simultaneously empty, Deadly Time is activated and &#xA;  everyone must ante 4-gems from then on. Note that if  you would ever&#xA;  ante a certain kind of gem that the bank  is out of, you must ante it&#xA;  anyway with a stand-in gem of  some sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For games with 3 or 4 players, the same sort of thing  happens. The&#xA;  number of empty stacks needed to activate  Panic Time is actually X,&#xA;  where X is the number of players. X+1, and X+2 empty stacks are when&#xA;  Danger Time and Deadly Time  activate. The 2 vs. 2 Team Battle mode&#xA;  counts as 4-player game for purposes of the Panic Time rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-03-31T15:49:15.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2014-03-31T15:53:10.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I own this business.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prawndesigns.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prawn Designs&lt;/a&gt;, based in California, sells &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.prawndesigns.com/Bases-and-Bits.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;custom bits and bases&lt;/a&gt;, including hexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7288" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T05:06:57.570" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T05:06:57.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13461" CreationDate="2014-04-01T04:00:59.047" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One spade over one heart may indicate transfer to 1NT by opener as one spade may have weak hand with minimum 3 carder weak Spade. After 1NT rebid it is passed so that strong hand does not become dummy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7294" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T09:15:33.807" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T09:15:33.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15051" CreationDate="2014-04-01T10:18:32.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is regarding the game that when played with 1 deck uses 7 build piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earliest recorded rules for this game appear in two different books from 1894 both refer to the game as Triangle. In one version only a single card can be moved and in the other entire sequences may be moved. Partial sequence movement was first recorded in a 2 deck version named Triangle in 1901.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the span of 7 years 3 different variations of movement between the tableau or building piles were recorded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From 1909 to at least 1920, after the game became known as Klondike or sometimes Canfield, the rules almost always required complete sequence movement when more than one face up card was present on the source pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point partial sequence movement became more common (at least in computer versions) and is allowed by Microsoft Solitaire. Very few computer versions can be found that have split-sequence/full-sequence as a variation, one example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.solitairecity.com/Klondike_Rules.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.solitairecity.com/Klondike_Rules.shtml&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7232" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T10:18:32.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15138" CreationDate="2014-04-01T19:57:59.957" Score="6" ViewCount="4442" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like many of you, I start playing carcassonne base game with 72 tiles and 7 meeples, but I start adding expansions, and now I have more that 150 tiles in game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just 9 meeples by player (counting the phantom and big one) I think I have a meeple deficit, how many meeples should I have for each player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastEditorUserId="6581" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T10:33:10.190" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T00:51:32.047" Title="How many meeples should I have according to the expansions that I'm currently using?" Tags="|carcassonne|carcassonne-river|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15110" CreationDate="2014-04-01T21:56:06.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Astrochain&quot; (or &quot;astrotrain&quot;) is a term used to refer to the use of the scored ability of the &quot;Astroscript Pilot Program&quot; (APP) NBN agenda in Android: Netrunner.  When scored by the corporation, an agenda counter is placed on the APP that allows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hosted agenda counter: Place 1 advancement token on a card that can be advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ability can be triggered during any subsequent paid abilities window, and is generally regarded as one of the strongest agenda abilities in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The APP itself is a 3/2 agenda, meaning that it requires 3 advancement tokens to score and yields 2 agenda points when scored.  Because it can be scored so quickly, many NBN decks have been constructed around scoring these agendas in particular and preferably doing so out of hand (meaning the runner will never see them in a remote server, but will only be able to grab them from HQ or R&amp;amp;D) - this strategy is referred to as &quot;Fast Advance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In faction, they are often paired with SanSan City Grids, which allow for agendas to be scored one advancement token sooner than they would be otherwise.  If the Corporation has a SanSan City Grid installed at the beginning of their turn, they can pay 6 credits to rez it, install the APP, advance it twice (either via credits or with a Shipment from SanSan), and score it all within one turn.  The hosted agenda counter can then be saved to help advance subsequent agendas, which can be immensely helpful if your SanSan City Grid gets trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of deck typically is played as a &quot;rush deck&quot; - where you may install a few pieces of cheap, end-the-run ICE and hope to win before the runner has a chance to fully put together their rig and break through your defenses (typical ICE choices are things like: Chimera, Wraparound, and Quandry).  Once they can get in, you have to win quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy is so strong that the influence splashes in some decks also revolve around accomplishing this goal (scoring APPs out of hand).  The most typical of these is the &quot;Astrobiotics&quot; deck, which includes up to 3 Biotic Labours (splashed from Haas-Bioroid at 4 influence each).  With an APP and a Biotic Labour in hand, one can Biotic, then install, advance the APP three times, and score it within one turn.  Of course, if you do this and also have a SanSan rezzed, you can even do something else with your last click!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;APP tokens are sometimes &quot;chained&quot; - which does indicate that you use one APP to score another, but as has been mentioned, it is not extremely common to draw them one after another in this fashion.  However, if you are able to score one or two of these agendas and sit on their agenda tokens, you are in an extremely strong position to score other agendas faster than the runner can deal with them.  For example, with 1 Biotic Labour, you could install a Project Beale and advance it three times.  This would typically score it for 2 agenda points, but if you had previous scored 2 APPs, you could spend their tokens to advance it twice more - yielding you 3 agenda points, and the win! (note: SanSan City Grids do not help with obtaining the additional agenda points from Project Beale)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T21:56:06.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15100" CreationDate="2014-04-01T22:20:48.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, there is not a &amp;quot;catch-all&amp;quot; resource that can answer any intermediate question that anyone could possibly dream up. However, I think that you are looking for what I would call &amp;quot;intermediate building blocks&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some building blocks that are relevant to nearly any deck build, but are not so hard to understand for an intermediate player. Please skip over any material you find to be too advanced (except for the rules - don't skip the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#What are the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Understanding the rules is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; most important tool when building a deck. I find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvxA59vwMksqKGn639LMf6nZ9xy4yw9jh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Judge's Corner on Youtube&lt;/a&gt; to be a great resource for understanding the rules. Wizards also releases a &amp;quot;rules clarifications&amp;quot; article right before every new set is released. You can read it to gain a more in-depth knowledge of the more complicated cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when Red Deck Wins was in the same meta as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Waves&quot;&gt;Master of Waves&lt;/a&gt;, I made a decision to leave &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt; in my sideboard because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullcrack&quot;&gt;Skullcrack&lt;/a&gt; removes his protection, and I main decked four Skullcracks. Had I not known the rules, Anger would appear to be useless against Master of Waves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#How much land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In standard, this boils down to probabilities. If you have an iPhone or Android phone, I strongly suggest you download the free Manalyzer for Magic the Gathering app and play with the numbers. You want the least number of lands that will still give you a high probability or being able to play the cards that you are most likely to draw. There are countless other apps that were built to help with the math, so search for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using an extreme case to serve as a basis for all other cases, if your deck consists of only 1 drops, and you have a 90% chance to have 3 lands by turn 3, you will probably run out of cards to play on turn 3. That may be good or bad, depending on what the cards are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you need to determine on what turn(s) you need your mana to be there for you. This ties in to the next topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Fundamental Turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does your deck win? I can't do this topic justice, so I suggest you read about it &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20001204020400/thedojo.com/column2/col.991102zmo.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, from the guy who coined the phrase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume you have calculated your fundamental turn to be 6. You know that another deck that is in the meta has a fundamental turn of 4. What tools do you have to delay their fundamental turn? If you have none, you will lose. If you fill your deck with 1/3 creatures and he has a deck filled with 2/2 creatures, that will delay his fundamental turn. This leads to my last topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#The Clock&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the article I wanted to reference here, so I'll reference &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toptiertactics.com/10704/putting-your-life-on-a-clock-in-magic-the-gathering/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clock is basically &amp;quot;if nothing changes, given the knowledge and board state that I have, in how many turns will I win or lose&amp;quot;. If your opponent has a 4/4 flyer and you have no board, no cards, and 20 life, you are on a 5 turn clock. If you are milling 5 cards per turn and you have 40 left, you are on an 8 turn clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can anticipate changes to your clock by assuming that your opponent has specific cards in hand and knowing what cards remain in your library. This is where understanding your meta comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#The Metagame&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other decks out there. The ones that show up to tournaments the most form the &amp;quot;tournament meta&amp;quot;. The ones that show up to your local store form the &amp;quot;local store meta&amp;quot;. If you play with friends, your &lt;em&gt;friends&lt;/em&gt; form your meta. Some metas are more stable than others (like legacy), while some are constantly shifting (like your friends).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I determine my meta using &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/standard_deck_hq.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TCG player latest decks&lt;/a&gt;, by watching the latest StarCityGames tournaments on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twitch.tv/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twitch.tv&lt;/a&gt;, by watching Grand Prix tournaments (also on Twitch), and by playing a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you know your meta, you can calculate the fundamental turn of the decks you will be facing, and adjust your deck to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you have the following resources in your arsenal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Judge's Corner and other mtg related playlists you may find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Manalyzer and other probability tools you may find&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A knowledge two important concepts: the fundamental turn and the clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your meta and 2-4 ways to discover and explore it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case that any of my links go bad, simply search for the bolded keywords. In the case that you know of a better article or tool than one I listed, please edit this answer with your awesome material.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-04-01T22:56:53.047" LastActivityDate="2014-04-01T22:56:53.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-02T13:41:40.390" Score="2" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability reads SHE is immune, however, what about Terror affects that'd add another doom token, for example? In that case, the Terror effect wouldn't directly target her, would her immunity still cancel the effect. Or if an effect states All investigators lose 1 sanity/stamina/trophy/etc. Would the other investigators still be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7272" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T11:37:12.597" Title="Kate Winthrop's Immunity to All Terror effects in Elder Sign - how does it work?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2014-04-02T13:49:41.447" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Carcassonne_series&quot;&gt;list of expansions&lt;/a&gt; that add pieces for each player are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Base game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 meeples, plus one for scoring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adds the Big Meeple.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Builders&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adds the Builder and the Pig.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adds the Mayor, the Barn, and the Wagon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bridges, Castles, and Bazaars&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adds 2-3 bridges and 2-3 castles, depending on the number of players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/92332/carcassonne-the-phantom&quot;&gt;The Phantom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adds the Phantom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the new pieces, only the Big Meeple, Mayor, Wagon, and Phantom are truly meeples.  The rest of them change the rules but can't be placed on their own.  In the games you listed, you're right, you should have 9 meeples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="224" LastEditorUserId="224" LastEditDate="2014-04-02T18:28:32.510" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T18:28:32.510" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2014-04-02T16:13:20.383" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merlin's Death is generally not due to the cards, but to play style.  However, in general Evil needs to keep track of things, so the more 'confused' evil can be the better.  The best configuration for this (which I would try in your group, first) is Merlin, Percival, and Oberon.  This gives good maximum information and evil the least.  If this configuration affects the Merlin kill, then great, but I doubt it will much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bigger problem seems to be that &quot;Good generally wins&quot;.  This shouldn't be the case.  Merlin is there to balance the information on both sides, since Evil knows Evil.  In general, games should end 50/50.   Merlin giving out &lt;em&gt;too much&lt;/em&gt; information should be the only reason these scales tip away from 50-50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for question #2, how do you steer things?  The short answer is &lt;em&gt;you don't&lt;/em&gt;!  The biggest reason for Merlin kills is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; based on how Merlin behaved, but how all of the other good players behaved.  My guess is all the rest of your loyal knights are acting timid and confused, while Merlin is acting confident, bored, or aggressively.   You &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to be aggressive, talkative, and opinionated in order to get the information out there to the other good players, ergo, the other good players &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; need to be aggressive, talkative, confident, opinionated, etc.  If they're not doing that, there's very little that can be done by Merlin.  I call this &quot;giving Merlin cover&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, this isn't just Percival's job.  It's everyone's.  Percival is there mostly for late game use when you need a perfect team on quest 5.  Think &quot;I'm Percival, this is the team you need&quot;.  He knows this because he's been carefully watching Merlin all game and Merlin has communicated to him who the bad players are (in some way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a normal loyal servant of Arthur, your job is &lt;em&gt;pretend&lt;/em&gt; you have all the information and any 'mistakes' you make are a ruse to throw people off the fact that you're Merlin.  This usually means a wild guess.  However, these guesses often pay off.  With 2-3 loyal knights guessing maybe one of them is accurate and this gives Merlin the cover he needs (as Merlin too will look like a random guesser).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, don't discount the power of voting.  The game relies on people voting in their best interests, as such, voting is a VERY reliable indicator of someone's knowledge and preferences.  If you're being fingered as Merlin too often and this is because you're speaking, try switching up the strategy.   Instead of speaking, try being totally silent, but just consistently voting for all good teams and down voting all bad teams.  If the other players are paying attention to votes you can give &lt;em&gt;full&lt;/em&gt; information about team evil without saying a word.  Of course, at some point they might catch on to this, so you might need to change-up the strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm Merlin, I play exactly the same way as when I'm not.  For me, this is trying to do a logical tally and deduction of votes and to point out table behavior and it's consequences.  Usually, even without being Merlin, I can fully figure out Team Evil by the end of the game with this method, so when I do it as Merlin I need to carefully act the same.  Still, in the absence of any cover, I will still lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things you generally shouldn't do as Merlin (though deception always allow for exceptions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vote for losing teams.  This 'fools evil' far less than it screws good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Approve team with 2 Evils early.  While this is a sound strategy, it can confuse good players who are trying to find you, and can convince them an evil player is good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claim to be Merlin at the end of the game.  This ploy generally doesn't work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that are perfectly okay to do as Merlin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Claim to be Merlin near the beginning of the game.  I've used this strategy effectively several times, even pointing out the exact bad guys.  It's often &lt;em&gt;so bold&lt;/em&gt; that it fools the opponents, but, of course, it can only be used sparingly, and it too needs cover (e.g. by players randomly doing this in some games)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Speak your concerns.  It's okay to think that a bad guy is bad and say so.  Often a Merlin 'tell' is being afraid to 'give away' anything, as that fear will come across and garner suspicion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;'wink' to Percival.  While perhaps not a literal wink, Percival is going to be looking right at you, so dammit look at him and acknowledge each other!  This is especially important in games with Morganna.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall this is a game about information and mis-information.  At the start Evil has an information advantage, so that needs to be made up with by good player speak.  Likewise the thing evil doesn't know (Merlin) needs to be covered up by a lot of misinformation from Good.  The more stuff you put out there, the more Evil needs to consider and the more cover Merlin will have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T16:13:20.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2014-04-02T18:00:32.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the research, I think I have the best way to combine de expansions, I share it with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my expansions are: base game, river, count king and rober (with river II), traders and builders, inns a cathedrals, bridges castles and bazaars, QG#11 &amp;amp; phantom. This is how I'm playing the beginning of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game starts with the river fork, the river that ends with the volcano is the last for that phase, mix the spring from QG#11, 10 from the river, 10 from the river II and the original starting tile in the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all the river pieces are played, the player that place the river that end with the volcano, plays carcassonne too, choosing the location where he wants for the city, the following player starts with the rest of the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope will be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastActivityDate="2014-04-02T18:00:32.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15130" CreationDate="2014-04-03T00:51:32.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;(adding to Kristo's answer because this is a bit too long for a comment)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We regularly play &quot;SuperUltraMega Carcassone&quot; because we have most of the expansions and two copies of the basic game and we are, frankly, silly. It can take a couple of hours to play that way, but it's kind of fun and means we only have to clean up once. Plus there's the challenge of getting everything on the table, which in the later stages further restricts the moves available. Note that we're playing this for fun rather than competitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried adding extra meeples but it doesn't really change the game dynamic in a useful way. With the effectively smaller number of meeples during the game farming becomes a less useful strategy and getting a meeple trapped becomes more of a problem. But those are changes rather than major flaws in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the complete double set of extra meeples causes a different problem - people go back to farming, but there's a real tendency to get into meeple wars over desirable bits of farmland. And those can get quite bitter, and lead to people building their whole game around a make-or-break block of farmland. Which makes the game less fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that you could perhaps add one or two extra meeples if you're playing with two copies of the base set, but not more than that. Given how playable it is without that I would be reluctant to do it. I'm more likely to suggest taking out one of the sets. The game is well balanced enough that we don't see runaway victories, I think largely because once someone gets 50 points ahead of the rest everyone else gangs up on them. It's very hard to stay ahead when that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7164" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T00:51:32.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15097" CreationDate="2014-04-03T01:20:07.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You basically have it right, that some people are willing open good 4-card majors with weakish hands, particularly in 3rd chair, as it is more preemptive than opening a minor, and Drury allows you to stay low.  In my experience, there is no consensus on how frequently to do this in third chair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only once have I ever seen a player playing 5 card majors open a 4-card major in 1st or 2nd seat... and I never found out whether that was intentional.  In fact, the current expert trend is toward opening 1NT with hands that are in range (a good 14 to 17) with 5332 hands... so if anything, the trend is in the other direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the basic reason for the 5332 trend is that 1NT is more frequently achieved as a contract when you open a minor or 1NT, and 1NT is frequently the best contract, especially at Matchpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More frequent is to see somebody overcalling with a 4 card major, on a suit like AKxx or KQTx.  Again, in such a situation, the disruptive effect can outweigh the &quot;lie&quot; that you are telling, although generally speaking partnerships are on the same page about whether they are willing to overcall on 4 card suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T01:20:07.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2014-04-03T02:43:29.203" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remember that Good can win without Merlin at all.&lt;/strong&gt; It's a struggle and I think the odds are against them, but this is the way the vanilla Resistance game works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, I think it benefits Merlin to be subtle. When players start speculating about each other, encourage the speculation that is true and cast doubt on the speculation that is false. As an example: One common way a game begins is for a 2-person mission to succeed, and then a 3-person mission consisting of those first two, plus one more person, to fail. Obviously a lot of suspicion naturally falls on the third person, but plenty of Evil players will happily sandbag the first mission to cast that shroud of doubt on a loyal knight in the second. As Merlin, if the third player is evil, play up the natural suspicion; if the third player is loyal, play up the possibility of a sandbag. If an evil player can be caught in a lie or drops a significant &quot;tell,&quot; be sure to point that out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably a playgroup difference, but unlike Neal, I don't mind voting &quot;wrong&quot; as Merlin. We have players who, either as Good or Evil, will nominate doomed-to-rejection parties just to see who votes for them--and will vote against their own nominations!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Good is losing too much, Percival, Oberon, and removing Morgana will give them a boost, but eventually with that setup I believe you will find Evil to be oppressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Percival, see if you can pick up on what Merlin's doing, and cast suspicion or innocence where Merlin is trying to place it. Ideally Evil will try to assassinate you rather than the real Merlin! As any Good character, but Percival especially, make sure to offer lots of theories and share your suspicions. Percival should keep a careful ear out to see which ones Merlin encourages and discourages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T02:43:29.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14034" CreationDate="2014-04-03T09:09:59.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, if a monster yields, the attacker assumes that monster place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you are playing with more than 4 players and both TC (Tokyo City) and TB (Tokyo Bay) are occupied, these are the possible outcomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only TB yields&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only TC yields&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both TC &amp;amp; TB yield&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Neither yield or die&lt;/strong&gt;: Nothing happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TB dies*&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TB dies and TC yields&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TC dies**&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TC dies and TB yields&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both die&lt;/strong&gt;: The attacker moves to TC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;ast; &lt;em&gt;In case the resulting number of players would be lower than 5, the attacker would not move to TB&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;ast;&amp;ast; &lt;em&gt;In case the resulting number of players would be lower than 5, the monster in TB (if any) drops out of Tokyo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T09:09:59.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15190" CreationDate="2014-04-03T16:43:58.713" Score="0" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions about how Persephone's super move &lt;em&gt;Mistress's Command&lt;/em&gt; function in 2v2 mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If Persephone hits with &lt;em&gt;Mistress's Command&lt;/em&gt; and then tags out to an ally (2v2 mode) before the next turn (either through powering up at the end of that turn, or using a Super Cancel Tag out of &lt;em&gt;Mistress's Command&lt;/em&gt;), &lt;strong&gt;does the effect of &lt;em&gt;Mistress's Command&lt;/em&gt; come into play on the next turn with her ally now active?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, which player controls the enemy character, her or her ally? (Naturally, teammates can collaborate with each other, but one of them has to have the authority to make the plays).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;Does the Super Cancel Tag rule of &quot;half damage rounded down&quot; have a clause of &quot;to a minimum of 1&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; that was overlooked in the manual and was errata'd in? It occurs to me that Persephone's &lt;em&gt;Mistress's Command&lt;/em&gt; is the only move in the game presently that would be affected, and the difference between it doing 1 damage or 0 damage is probably non-trivial based in various technical cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Onimaru's &lt;em&gt;Clockwork Soldiers&lt;/em&gt; would also be affected by #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2014-04-03T18:18:01.617" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T13:25:59.003" Title="Persephone Super Moves in 2v2" Tags="|yomi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15278" CreationDate="2014-04-03T17:25:10.693" Score="3" ViewCount="3303" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, 50% of units, rounded up may be in reserves. Also, some units (flyers, drop pods) don't count towards the units counted in reserves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But do we count the latter including or excluding the units that don't count in reserves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;eg:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A - 2 HQ (independent character)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B - 1 unit in a drop pod (with space for the HQ)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C - 2 units that can deep strike&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;D - 2 units that can't start in reserves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do we count 50% of 7 units (=4), and we can thus put both A with the unit B (counts for 2), and also put both C in reserves (count for 2), only fielding both units D at the start. This also means that we only actually fielded 28% of the army.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do we count 50% of 6 units (B excluded), and thus can basically field like above except for either one HQ or one C. In this case we actually only field actually 43% of the army.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played our last game according to case n°1. Were we wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T15:14:29.933" Title="Calculating reserves, and the 50% rule" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="966" CreationDate="2014-04-03T18:53:51.210" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The branch is not played by a player it starts in play connected following the same line as the spring with the branch being too the left or right. Then players draw tiles from the river expansion. Furthermore, you use only two lake tiles and set one of those aside doesn't have to be the volcano though it is recommended if you are playing with it. The other lake ets shuffled with the river tiles. The river is allowed to encircle the city but it is discouraged because if the tiles don't come out in the right order there is the potential it can never be completed and you risk tiles being removed from the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6735" LastActivityDate="2014-04-03T18:53:51.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15150" CreationDate="2014-04-04T00:45:01.963" Score="2" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evacuation&quot;&gt;Evacuation&lt;/a&gt; returns all creatures to owners hands. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ambush%20Commander&quot;&gt;Ambush Commander&lt;/a&gt; turns all forests into creatures. Would that mean that Evacuation would return all forests to their owners hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T03:26:27.777" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T03:26:27.777" Title="Would Evacuation and Ambush Commander return all forests to their owners' hands?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15149" CreationDate="2014-04-04T02:07:27.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ambush Commander only affects its controller's Forests, but otherwise, yes.  Evacuation will return them to their owners' hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't come down to a single rules citation, but ultimately Creature Lands still count as creatures due to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2h&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect refers to certain characteristics, it checks only for the value of the specified characteristics, regardless of any related ones an object may also have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: An effect that reads “Destroy all black creatures” destroys a white-and-black creature, but one that reads “Destroy all nonblack creatures” doesn’t.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not matter that they are 'Creature Lands', the spell just cares that they are creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T03:25:35.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15152" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15159" CreationDate="2014-04-04T10:30:13.447" Score="2" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please explain to me why I can &lt;em&gt;Ron&lt;/em&gt; the opponent's discard? (see screenshot)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m8FFy.png&quot; alt=&quot;Current board state&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I'm in furiten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I don't understand why - I tried to read the rules, it states that I can't win on an oppenent's discard when I have discarded the winning tile before. But I didn't discard a 2-character tile yet? Or are even other tiles involved for the furiten (&lt;em&gt;chi'd&lt;/em&gt; on 6-bamboo)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7321" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T00:53:19.167" Title="Can someone explain me this furiten?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15133" CreationDate="2014-04-04T11:37:12.597" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kate Winthrop's ability should be played as if the terror die does not trigger the terror effects. So, no doom should be added, nor other investigator should suffer any effects. I could not find rules about that anywhere, but that's how things work in the mobile version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T11:37:12.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15152" CreationDate="2014-04-04T15:31:30.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't look like you're in furiten.  However, in riichi mahjong, a hand also needs at least one complete yaku (multiplier) before it can be completed, and I'm not seeing one in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your hand were still closed, you could easily supply the needed multiplier simply by calling riichi.  However, calling riichi requires a closed hand, and since you'd already called the 678-bamboo meld your hand is already open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, your best option would probably be to make a set of three green dragons (which would provide the &quot;yakuhai&quot; yaku, even on an open hand) and toss one of the 1-bamboo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also the answers to this related question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/8462/1926&quot;&gt;Why couldn&amp;#39;t this hand win with ron?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T15:31:30.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2014-04-04T19:58:36.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this short vid for an easy fix for those slippery stat tracker clips.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTsm2tNuTw8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTsm2tNuTw8&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Video summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a piece of tape on the inside of one side of the slider. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trim the edges with scissors &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add another piece if it is not tight enough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7324" LastEditorUserId="6122" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T23:14:20.683" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T23:14:20.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15158" CreationDate="2014-04-04T22:07:10.943" Score="1" ViewCount="1444" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chained%20to%20the%20Rocks&quot;&gt;Chained to the Rocks&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant Mountain you control.&#xA;When Chained to the Rocks enters the battlefield, exile target creature an opponent controls until Chained to the Rocks leaves the battlefield. (That creature returns under its owner's control.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does mountain in this instance mean a card that is named &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot; or a card with a mountain sub-type? For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sacred%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Sacred Foundry&lt;/a&gt; has the sub-type &amp;quot;Mountain Plains&amp;quot;. Could I enchant this land with Chained to the Rocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T23:05:42.990" Title="Chained to the Rocks and shocklands" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15156" CreationDate="2014-04-04T22:31:18.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It can be any card with the land type &amp;quot;Mountain.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, all of these are valid targets for Chained to the Rocks, as long as you control them: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sacred%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Sacred Foundry&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Badlands&quot;&gt;Badlands&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Mountain&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Mountain&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Madblind%20Mountain&quot;&gt;Madblind Mountain&lt;/a&gt;, any land card affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prismatic%20Omen&quot;&gt;Prismatic Omen&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Magic, cards that key off of a card's name will specify &amp;quot;name&amp;quot; in the rules text. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Rats&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt; for an example of this templating. Otherwise they're either referring to themselves or a card type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T22:31:18.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15156" CreationDate="2014-04-04T22:52:46.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A permanent with the Mountain land type. Sacred Foundry can be enchanted with Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot; could mean mean two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An object whose name is &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An object which has the land (sub)type &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sacred%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Sacred Foundry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card refers to something that can be a name or a type, it always refers to the type&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. As such, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chained%20to%20the%20Rocks&quot;&gt;Chained to the Rocks&lt;/a&gt; looks for objects with the land type &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; does have that type. It can be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contaminated%20Ground&quot;&gt;Contaminated Ground&lt;/a&gt; does not have that type. It is a Land, it is a Basic, and it is a Swamp, but it is not a Mountain (despite having that for name). It cannot be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sacred%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Sacred Foundry&lt;/a&gt; does have that type. It can be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Boros Guildgate&lt;/a&gt; does not have that type. It is a Land, and it is a Gate, but it is not a Mountain. It cannot be enchanted by Chained to the Rocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For references to permanents, this is covered by 109.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is understood to apply for references to non-permanents, though this is not explicitly stated in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-04T23:05:42.990" LastActivityDate="2014-04-04T23:05:42.990" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15152" CreationDate="2014-04-05T00:53:19.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the good news is that you are not in Furiten. The waits on that hand are 2-char, 5-char, and 8-char, and none of those have been discarded by either player, so Furiten does not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you DID fall victim to is the yaku requirement. That hand does not meet the requirements on account of it being open. It would need to be a concealed hand for a win by Tsumo OR reached (which requires a concealed hand) for a win by either Tsumo or Ron. Despite this, you would be tenpai should it come to that point because you only need one tile to &quot;complete&quot; your hand (despite the fact that you cannot go out with that hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the hand and the discards at that time, it would appear the best course of action is to hope your opponent discards a green dragon so that you can pon it (or hope you draw one yourself) and convert your 1-dot triple into eyes. Yakuhai (Triple of any dragon, seat wind, or round wind) is applicable even if the hand is open, so it would make the hand legal to win by Ron on a 2, 5, or 8-char (assuming I remember Furiten rules correctly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you were to draw (or meld in) a 2, 5, or 8-char before completing this switch and discard a 1-dot, I'm fairly certain you would be in Furiten from that point because your waits would be a Green Dragon (which makes a hand you can go out on) and a 1-dot (which makes a hand you cannot go out on), and you would be required to win by Tsumo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As goldPseudo also pointed out, the following related question is also pertinent to open hands in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8462/why-couldnt-this-hand-win-with-ron&quot;&gt;Why couldn&amp;#39;t this hand win with ron?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T00:53:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15252" CreationDate="2014-04-05T01:13:23.070" Score="8" ViewCount="4946" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Betrayal At House On The Hill, the explorers will eventually reveal one too many Omens, causing some (random) explorer to become the Traitor and try to do something terrible to the remaining players (who are then called Heroes). There are 50 different scenarios that might happen, and each scenario has special rules for the Traitor, and different special rules for the Heroes. (Among other things, these rules say how each side can &lt;em&gt;win&lt;/em&gt;.) The rules for each side are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to be revealed to the other side; instead, each side has a small paragraph in their rules about &quot;What the other team knows&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During play, those special rules come up repeatedly: how the Traitor is permitted to move the Zombies, the deterministic rules on how the Banshee moves, special attacks, special defenses, special items required, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much of the special rules is each side required to reveal when using them?&lt;/strong&gt; For example, several scenarios require that the Heroes perform a ritual/exorcism/silly dance with particular items and/or in particular locations, using a skill check. How much should the Heroes reveal while doing this? Should a Hero say &quot;I'm searching for voodoo supplies here in the bedroom, which requires me to roll at least a 4 on Sanity&quot; or simply &quot;I'm making a skill check&quot; (or even say nothing and just roll the dice)?  When Heroes have a special way of defeating monsters, do they have to describe the action (&quot;I'm throwing a torch at the monster&quot;), or simply roll an attack (&quot;I'm attacking you with Speed.&quot;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In play, I've usually described only things that would be obvious: &quot;Roll a Sanity check. Okay, you failed (I don't mention the target number); the Zombie won't act for the rest of the game&quot; or &quot;I throw a torch, it's a Speed attack.&quot; In the first case, the reason the Zombie shut down is only known to the Zombie itself, and it isn't communicating anymore. In the second case, it's obvious to the monster that I'm throwing a torch at it. Am I doing it right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T22:06:03.590" Title="How much do the Heroes and Traitor need to reveal while using their haunt-specific rules?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-05T01:25:05.797" Score="10" ViewCount="63216" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guttersnipe&quot;&gt;Guttersnipe&lt;/a&gt;'s ability states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell, Guttersnipe deals 2 damage to each opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, Planeswalkers are classed as &amp;quot;Players&amp;quot;. I found this ruling that someone's interpreted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;306.7. If noncombat damage would be dealt to a player by a source controlled by an opponent, that opponent may have that source deal that damage to a planeswalker the first player controls instead. This is a redirection effect (see rule 614.9) and is subject to the normal rules for ordering replacement effects (see rule 616). The opponent chooses whether to redirect the damage as the redirection effect is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean Guttersnipe can hit a Planeswalker that opponent's controlling instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7210" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-05T02:34:49.840" LastActivityDate="2019-01-04T10:36:09.570" Title="Can Guttersnipe hit Planeswalkers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15161" CreationDate="2014-04-05T02:45:03.563" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/news/dominaria-comprehensive-rules-changes-2018-04-13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominaria rules update&lt;/a&gt;, no. The planeswalker redirection rule you cite has been removed, and so dealing damage to &quot;each opponent&quot; means literally that, just player(s), no planeswalkers involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It now reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.7. Previously, planeswalkers were subject to a redirection effect that allowed a player to have noncombat damage that would be dealt to an opponent be dealt to a planeswalker under that opponent’s control instead. This rule has been removed and certain cards have received errata in the Oracle card reference to deal damage directly to planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that spirit, many cards which said &quot;target player&quot; have been changed to read &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3A%22target%20player%20or%20planeswalker%22&amp;amp;unique=cards&amp;amp;as=text&amp;amp;order=name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;target player or planeswalker&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, many which said &quot;target opponent&quot; now say &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3A%22target%20opponent%20or%20planeswalker%22&amp;amp;unique=cards&amp;amp;as=text&amp;amp;order=name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;target opponent or planeswalker&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, and many which said &quot;target creature or player&quot; now say &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3A%22any%20target%22&amp;amp;order=name&amp;amp;as=text&amp;amp;unique=cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;any target&quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGuttersnipe%5d&quot;&gt;Guttersnipe&lt;/a&gt; that wouldn't be so trivial to update have generally been left alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For posterity, the original pre-Dominaria answer follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can redirect Guttersnipe's damage to a planeswalker, due to the rule you cited. (That's an actual rule, not a ruling or someone's interpretation.) Guttersnipe is dealing noncombat damage to a player, you are that player's opponent, you control the Guttersnipe, and you may therefore redirect the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But saying &quot;planeswalkers are classed as 'players'&quot; is only going to get you into trouble. They are not players. They're, well, planeswalkers. There are a few things you can do that make them feel like players: you can redirect damage like this, and you can choose to attack them or your opponents with your creatures. But they aren't players. If a card actually says &quot;player&quot;, it means a player, not a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A burn spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Strike%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;...deals 3 damage to target creature or player&quot;) can only &lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt; a player. You may end up redirecting the damage, effectively using it on their planeswalker, but you still have to target your opponent. If they have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWitchbane%20Orb%5d&quot;&gt;Witchbane Orb&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;You have hexproof&quot;), you can't target them, so you can't cast the spell in the first place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel%5d&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;...each opponent loses X life...&quot;) doesn't do anything to your opponents' planeswalkers - you can't redirect loss of life. Similarly, you can't somehow use life gain on a planeswalker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDreadbore%5d&quot;&gt;Dreadbore&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;Destroy target creature or planeswalker.&quot;) doesn't do anything to players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time things are pretty obvious anyway - for example you're not too likely to think a planeswalker can draw cards and try to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOpportunity%5d&quot;&gt;Opportunity&lt;/a&gt; on it. But you can avoid the chance of confusion by just remembering what you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do (attack and redirect damage) rather than thinking of planeswalkers as players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2018-12-19T14:58:43.477" LastActivityDate="2018-12-19T14:58:43.477" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15160" CreationDate="2014-04-05T04:27:22.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no real rules-based example of just how much or how little you have to reveal, so really it comes down to common sense, fairness and keeping to the theme of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you don't want to give away exactly what you are trying to do, but you also don't want the opposing side to feel that you are purposefully withholding information that brings theme and connectedness to the scenario (and thus fun to the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way my group plays it is that you don't reveal anything about what is happening unless it specifically alters or affects what the other side is doing, or contradicts something you know about them or something they say. If it falls outside of that range and they can see you do it, give them a very basic description of it, otherwise if they can't see you they have no idea what you did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example of performing a ritual in a room or searching for something, if they can directly see your character tell them you are casting a spell or rummaging around for something, but no more than that. If they can't see your character, then they don't need to know anything more than that you have rolled a dice and/or placed a token on a card/drawn a card/whatever other action you need to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you successfully performed the ritual and it did something like reducing the Traitor's statistics, you would need to tell them that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using scenario 10, Family Gathering as another example (since you mentioned it) the Traitor's Tome gives them enough information to know that their zombies can be trapped, but not how. It is up to the Heroes to tell the Traitor what is required of them when a zombie has the potential to be trapped, and it is also acceptable to tell them why a zombie is trapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a last point, it is also up to you and your fellow players just how plain or colourful your descriptions are. In some groups &quot;I succeeded at my ritual, so you lose 2 Knowledge&quot; works, while in others &quot;you feel your mind begin to slip away as my chanting rises to a crescendo, lose 2 Knowledge&quot;. They both say the exact same thing, but one is quick and to the point, the other is thematic and dramatic. You just need to make sure that if you take the dramatic route that you don't give away more information than is necessary in your attempt at adding colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T04:27:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15165" CreationDate="2014-04-05T04:41:09.900" Score="5" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the cards involved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Levitation&quot;&gt;Levitation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures you control gain flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gravity%20Sphere&quot;&gt;Gravity Sphere&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All creatures lose flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Oblivion Ring enters the battlefield, exile a nonland permanent (card).&#xA;When Oblivion Ring leaves the battlefield, return that permanent (card) to play under its owner's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tranquility&quot;&gt;Tranquility&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy all enchantments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I play a Levitation, and all of my creatures gain flying. Next turn, my opponent responds with a Gravity Sphere, and so, since the Gravity Sphere came into play more recently, it overrides Levitation, so all of my creatures would then lose flying. So, I play Oblivion Ring on his Gravity Sphere, my creatures gain flying again. He then plays Oblivion Ring on my Leviation, they lose flying. I then play Tranquility, which simultaneously kills both Oblivion Rings and brings back the Levitation and Gravity Sphere. &lt;strong&gt;So at this point, does everyone fly, or do they all stay on the ground?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7280" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-06T04:37:36.727" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T04:51:07.677" Title="Question about interaction: levitation, then gravity sphere, then oblivion ring on each, then tranquility. Who flies away?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15164" CreationDate="2014-04-05T05:14:43.010" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: your creatures lose flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both Oblivion Rings are destroyed at the same time, their triggered abilities &quot;When Oblivion Ring leaves the battlefield, return the exiled card to the battlefield under its owner's control.&quot; are put on the stack. They are put on the stack in APNAP order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;  abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;  chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and&#xA;  resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities&#xA;  that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process&#xA;  repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no&#xA;  abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we are in your turn (because Tranquility is a sorcery), the ability of the Oblivion Ring you control is put on the stack, then on top of that is put the ability of the other Oblivion Ring. First we resolve the one your opponent controls which returns Levitation to the battlefield. Then we resolve the one you control, and return Gravity Sphere. Since Gravity Sphere entered last on the battlefield, all your creatures lose flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you somehow managed to destroy both rings on your opponents turn, then the result would be reversed and your creatures would have flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you asked the question, you thought Levitation and Gravity Sphere were entering the battlefield simultaneously. You now know that's not the case here, but you probably still wonder what would happen if they did enter the battlefield simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order in which the effects are applied are defined in the section of the rules entitled &quot;Interaction of Continuous Effects&quot;. As you've indicated, it comes down to timestamps in this case (whichever has the latter timestamp wins out). So which one has the later timestamp if they both entered the battlefield simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.6g If two or more objects would receive a timestamp simultaneously, such as by entering a zone simultaneously or becoming attached simultaneously, the active player determines their timestamp order at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being the Active Player, you would decide the timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you decide that Levitation has the lower timestamp, it gives the ability then Gravity Sphere takes it away, so none of your creatures can fly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you decide that Gravity Sphere has the lower timestamp, it task away the ability then Levitation grants it, so all of your creatures can fly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-06T04:51:07.677" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T04:51:07.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2014-04-05T23:33:56.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another reason might be that originally 6-sided dice used little holes to mark the numbers. The material removed to create a 6 is more than that to create a 1. As such, the different sides of a die had different weights. To balance the weight across all three directions of the die, opposing numbers were chosen to balance out the different directions. The material taken out of 6 and 1 would be the same weight as the material taken out of 5 and 2, and 4 and 3. All three directions would lose material equal to 7 holes. This, combined with distributing the numbers as far as possible from one another would lead to the current distribution of the numbers on a 6-sided die. However, on dice with more than 6 sides, the sum rule would not be enough to guarantee that all numbers are as far as possible from each other. Also, on 20-sided dice, numbers are not usually created by holes but using digits. As such, the material argument doesn't hold anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7332" LastActivityDate="2014-04-05T23:33:56.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14837" CreationDate="2014-04-06T06:47:18.780" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just off the top of my head, but if the issue you're having is that someone needs to be 'stuck' there, then how about giving everyone a special action to skip their whole turn to &quot;radio the driver&quot; to take the action.  This way, effectively, any player can be it without having to be in the truck, and people can take turns.   Try it out, and if it makes the game easier use the game's built in difficulty modification to re-adjust it harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T06:47:18.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14197" CreationDate="2014-04-06T07:06:24.267" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure why you made the serum as a traitor.  Had you not, you might have won just by keeping away.  However, assuming you did, then your next best bet is to pass off your infection token ASAP, then keep away from them all.  Also, you might have considered lying about injecting yourself: since you didn't actually perform an illegal action in the game, you aren't cheating or breaking any rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-06T07:06:24.267" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15171" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15172" CreationDate="2014-04-06T11:24:50.520" Score="5" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you deal during your action and you finish having more then 3 inactive jobs in your hand, can you choose 3 to keep from all of your jobs or no ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game rules are not clear about this and in something that looks like &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.rs/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;ved=0CDYQFjAB&amp;amp;url=http://flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/all_images/GF9/Firefly/Rulebooks/FAQ/Firefly_FAQ_v2.pdf&amp;amp;ei=GDRBU7XnAsiBywPz2oLQBQ&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFl-ofnAx8Vc7kdUt6B0BX-SYcm8g&amp;amp;sig2=t8D9aOlyic2ziB5kuzV_-Q&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;unofficial game FAQ&lt;/a&gt; it looks like you can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T15:01:53.410" Title="Can you discard inactive jobs in Firefly" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15171" CreationDate="2014-04-06T11:52:16.820" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can end up with more than inactive 3 jobs in your hand after dealing, but you must immediately discard back to down to a maximum of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically when dealing you consider 3 cards (these cards are not counted as being in your hand yet while you are considering them). You then select a maximum of 2 of these cards to keep depending on which ones you like (the selected cards, if any, are now placed in your hand). Then you must immediately discard back down to a maximum of 3 cards (so you would discard jobs you previously had that you didn't want to keep).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FAQs hosted on flamesofwar.com are the official ones as they are linked to from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fireflythegame.com/howtoplay.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this official page&lt;/a&gt;, although the version you linked to (v2) is outdated, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/all_images/GF9/Firefly/Rulebooks/FAQ/Firefly_FAQ_v4.1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the most recent FAQ is v4.1&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T15:01:53.410" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T15:01:53.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15604" CreationDate="2014-04-06T14:36:36.060" Score="5" ViewCount="9902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Cards Against Humanity with all the expansion packs that come with blank cards. I have some ideas for cards but there are so many I couldn't possibly remember/know all the ones that already exist. Is there a way to search if a card exists without having to manually look through every single card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the PDF on the website but it does not seem to have the expansion packs and it is not searchable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T19:34:39.870" Title="Is there a way to tell if a Cards Against Humanity card exists already?" Tags="|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-06T19:29:35.537" Score="7" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example: I have secured dice by a spell which can complete a full task on the adventure, but, it is an adventure with an order arrow, and the secured dice are needed for the last task. Now I roll my remaining die/dice and get exactly what I need to complete the first task, however, now I have used up all my dice. But I still have my secured dice, which would perfectly fit to complete the last task. Can I complete the last task using the secured dice, even though I can't roll any dice before moving on to the last task.&#xA;Thank You!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7272" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T22:04:23.537" Title="In Elder Sign, after rolling, can I do both - complete a task AND use any dice previously secured by a spell to complete a second task?" Tags="|elder-sign|dice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14837" CreationDate="2014-04-07T08:58:29.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that the fact the Driver/Operator can use the gun twice and reroll both attempts is a bit overpowered. A very simple solution would be to discard the reroll modifier, resulting in the special ability of the Driver/Operator to use the water gun at half the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's still too easy, change the rules so the Driver/Operator only has a bonus towards driving the vehicle, but using the gun still uses up a total of 4 action points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6779" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T08:58:29.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13971" CreationDate="2014-04-07T15:18:50.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not claiming an authoritative answer, but when playing recently the rule we followed is the activation rule -- the adjacent PDS may fire into a system that has been &lt;em&gt;activated&lt;/em&gt;. So, in your scenario, the PDS would fire only one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the TI3 Rule book (page 29):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player activates a system in range of an&#xA;  enemy PDS unit, the owners of any enemy PDS units&#xA;  in range may, after the movement step of the&#xA;  Activation Sequence, fire once per PDS at any units&#xA;  in the system owned by the activating player. Note&#xA;  that when firing your PDS units during another player's&#xA;  activation, you may only fire at the units controlled &#xA;  by the activating player. It is thus not possible&#xA;  to draw third party PDS fire at an enemy fleet by simply &#xA;  activating its system from afar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although I haven't sussed this out with my gaming group, I imagine a transfer action would invoke two opportunities for an adjacent PDS if the system holding the PDS is adjacent to both transfer-action-activated systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7336" LastEditorUserId="7336" LastEditDate="2014-04-07T16:07:15.317" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:07:15.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15174" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:47:06.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dice that are secured with a spell are regarded as focused, and can be used at any time (by any player, including you) to fulfill a task's requirement(s). You don't need to roll again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T16:47:06.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15220" CreationDate="2014-04-07T16:48:03.277" Score="1" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How should one compare the value between the two main options of Jokers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Yomi, Jokers have two primary purposes: &lt;em&gt;Gold Burst&lt;/em&gt;, which allows one to gain aces, and &lt;em&gt;Time Rewind&lt;/em&gt; (also affectionately known as &lt;em&gt;Blue Burst&lt;/em&gt;), which acts as a &quot;combo breaker&quot; when being hit.  There are also other minor uses, such as using them for pumping fodder in extreme cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being so rare and having powerful effects, Joker's are extremely valuable.  As such, it becomes important to judge the opportunity cost of the two options against each other.  It seems to be a general guideline that Blue Burst is substantially more valuable than Gold Burst in the broadest strokes, but it is not a hard rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the estimated mathematical value between the two options?  In what situations or character match-ups does it significantly change?  If one is playing for winning in the long-term over multiple games, as one might do in Poker, what is the most conservative way to value these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T18:19:55.983" Title="Value of Joker options" Tags="|yomi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15173" CreationDate="2014-04-07T22:58:54.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;BoardGameGeek.com seems to have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/85972/cah-cardlisting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;listing&lt;/a&gt; through expansion 3.  You might be able to find more be going through the first couple pages of Google &lt;a href=&quot;http://bit.ly/1fYHnpc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search&lt;/a&gt; results and second level links. This was found through the 3rd link in the search results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastActivityDate="2014-04-07T22:58:54.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15184" CreationDate="2014-04-07T23:19:57.470" Score="4" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;We need an impartial explanation on how to use this card &quot;the SYCOPHANT&quot;. The card states &quot; Any other player that uses the take 1 grain action space must first pay you one food. In addition, you receive 1 food from the supply, even when you take the grain yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7338" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T02:26:23.280" Title="the sycophant card" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15185" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:17:20.617" Score="3" ViewCount="1249" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378445&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gild&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;Exile target creature. Put a colorless artifact token named Gold onto the battlefield. It has &quot;Sacrifice this artifact: Add one mana of any color to your mana pool.&quot;&quot;. I assume that that means that the token goes into play under your control (assuming you were the one who cast Gild) and not the person who's creature you exiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T07:46:08.957" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T07:46:08.957" Title="Do Gild's Gold tokens go into play under the caster's control?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15186" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:20:14.913" Score="1" ViewCount="2110" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373709&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Whip of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Return target creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield. It gains haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step. If it would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that the creature will remain on the battlefield for the rest of the current turn and pretty much all of the next turn, too, save for the end of that turn? eg. could I attack with the resurrected creature twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what happens if I bounce it back to my hand? I assume it doesn't go to the graveyard from my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T10:38:18.333" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T12:42:28.933" Title="How long does a creature returned by the Whip of Erebos remain on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15187" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:23:48.287" Score="7" ViewCount="59955" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume I can only use a loyalty ability once per turn, is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise it'd seem to me that Planeswalkers would be hideously broken. And I assume that if you used the +1 ability that the 0 ability can't be utilized - that it's not &quot;use each loyalty ability once per turn&quot; but rather &quot;use only one loyalty ability once per turn&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can I use them the turn I cast a planeswalker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T09:30:01.093" LastActivityDate="2019-05-10T05:20:53.747" Title="What are the limitations on using a Planeswalker's loyalty abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15180" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:49:17.063" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever anyone takes the &quot;Take 1 Grain&quot; action space, they must first pay the Sycophant 1 food. After receiving this payment, the Sycophant then (also) receives 1 food from the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Sycophant uses the &quot;Take 1 Grain&quot; action space, they (also) receive 1 food from the supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: compendium v9.0 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T04:49:17.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:49:35.737" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the token comes into play under the control of the player who played Gild. This is specified by rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;110.2a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect instructs a player to put an object onto the battlefield, that object enters the battlefield under that player's control unless the effect states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gild's effect instructs &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; (the player who controls the spell) to put the token into play, so it comes into play under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on the Gatherer page states this explicitly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You will control the token, no matter who controls the target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T20:51:33.213" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:51:33.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15182" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:53:01.593" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature will remain on the battlefield for the remainder of the turn that it came into play. The last phase of each turn is the ending phase, and the first step of that phase is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/End_of_turn_step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;end step&lt;/a&gt;. When that step starts, the triggered ability &quot;Exile it at the beginning of the next end step&quot; will trigger and you will exile the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next part of the ability says &quot;If it would leave the battlefield, exile it instead of putting it anywhere else.&quot; This means that if it would go to your hand from the battlefield (you &quot;bounce&quot; it), it is exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T05:00:05.977" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T05:00:05.977" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15183" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:55:51.707" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have basic questions like this about how cards work, &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the basic rules&lt;/a&gt; are a good place to start. Here's the section about planeswalkers, which directly answers your main questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers are powerful allies you can call on to fight by your side. You can cast a planeswalker only at the time you could cast a sorcery. They’re permanents, and each one enters the battlefield with the number of loyalty counters indicated in its lower right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each planeswalker has loyalty abilities that are activated by adding or removing loyalty counters from the planeswalker. For example, the symbol {+1} means “Put one loyalty counter on this planeswalker” and the symbol {-3} means “Remove three loyalty counters from this planeswalker.” &lt;strong&gt;You can activate one of these abilities only at the time you could cast a sorcery and only if none of that planeswalker’s loyalty abilities have been activated yet that turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your planeswalkers can be attacked by your opponent’s creatures (if so, you can block as normal), and your opponents can damage them with their spells and abilities instead of damaging you. Any damage dealt to a planeswalker causes it to lose that many loyalty counters. If a planeswalker has no loyalty counters, it’s put into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, one ability per turn per planeswalker. If you've got more than one, you can use them all up to once, though. You can even, say, use one Vraska's ability then play another Vraska (sending the first to the graveyard, due to the uniqueness rule) and use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, you can use it the turn you cast it - there's nothing here saying you can't. (The &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; restriction is something that specifically applies to creatures.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T16:33:51.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15183" CreationDate="2014-04-08T04:55:55.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only use one of the abilities each turn, and only once per turn when you could normally cast a sorcery. From rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Loyalty_Ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;606.3&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may activate a loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but only if no player has previously activated a loyalty ability of that permanent that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the loyalty ability the turn you cast the planeswalker; there is no reason you wouldn't be able to. In fact, you can use any ability of any non-creature permanent the turn it comes into play unless it says otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T05:03:35.633" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T05:03:35.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15182" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:16:19.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whipped creature will be exiled at the beginning of the next end step, so it will normally only be able to attack once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a way to keep it permanently in play if you Exile the creature, then return it to the battlefield with something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;. This way, the replacement effect on leaving the battlefield will not occur (Whip doesn't send the creature to exile, because it's going to exile anyway). Then after Cloudshift returns it to play it is a new creature and Whip of Erebos won't be able to find it to Exile it at the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also phase it out before the end of the turn, since Phasing Out doesn't leave the battlefield.. The creature would then be unable to be exiled at the end of the turn as its phased out. The replacement effect from the Whip would still be in effect, so if the creature later leaves the battlefield it would be exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T12:42:28.933" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T12:42:28.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15145" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:25:59.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Game creator David Sirlin &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasystrike.com/forums/index.php?threads/few-persephone-2v2-clarifications.9257/#post-306018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;answered both of these questions&lt;/a&gt; recently on the forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Persephone controls the opponent on the following turn from the bench.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Abilities work from the bench. It says you control their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)  Mistress's Command (and Onimaru's Clockwork Soldiers) intentionally do 1 damage and there is no minimum associated with the rounding of the Super Cancel Tag specifically so that &lt;strong&gt;its effect will not trigger&lt;/strong&gt; in such a scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Rounded down&quot; is specifically so that MC and CS do 0. Very much on&#xA;  purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T13:25:59.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15192" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:28:37.037" Score="3" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text on Hammer of Purphoros reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sacrifice a land: Put a 3/3 colorless Golem enchantment artifact creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that this doesn't allow me to destroy my opponent's lands but I would like to know why. What wording &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; allow me to do that? &quot;Destroy target land&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7328" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-09T02:49:14.467" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T18:25:36.407" Title="Hammer of Purphoros doesn't let me destroy my opponent's lands; why is that exactly?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15191" CreationDate="2014-04-08T13:36:48.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Sacrifice&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Destroy&amp;quot; are 2 separate things, though they both result in sending a permanent to the graveyard. You can only ever sacrifice a permanent that you control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14. Sacrifice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, &lt;strong&gt;its controller&lt;/strong&gt; moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you are correct about the second part, a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillage&quot;&gt;Pillage&lt;/a&gt; would let you destroy an opponent's land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Sacrifice&amp;quot; happens only when an ability tells you to &amp;quot;sacrifice&amp;quot; something (or keywords whose rules require sacrificing, such as Annihilate). &amp;quot;Destruction&amp;quot; can happen either from abilities that say &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot;, or from state-based effects such as a creature having taken too much damage. Things like &amp;quot;Indestructible&amp;quot; can prevent Destruction, but not Sacrificing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T18:25:36.407" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T18:25:36.407" CommentCount="23" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15191" CreationDate="2014-04-08T14:10:56.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What wording would allow me to do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Move {some land} to {a zone}&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;em&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than abilities, some keyword actions instruct you to do this, which brings us to your next question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Destroy target land&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, because &lt;em&gt;destroy&lt;/em&gt; is defined as &lt;em&gt;move {permanent} from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll never see &quot;target&quot; in a cost, though. There would be problems with doing that, and there would be no gain over simply choosing (e.g. &quot;destroy a land&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you'll never see &quot;destroy&quot; in a cost either. A cost is something you must pay; it should not be a benefit under normal circumstances. Furthermore, destruction can be nullified by regeneration. It should not be possible to avoid paying a cost in that fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I know that [Sacrifice a land] doesn't allow me to destroy my opponent's lands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice is defined as &lt;em&gt;move {a permanent} you control from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard&lt;/em&gt;. It would work if it wasn't limited to a permanent you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that &quot;return&quot; is sometimes used as a synonym for &quot;move&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T17:09:02.347" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T17:09:02.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15199" CreationDate="2014-04-08T16:25:42.543" Score="9" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Doctor and name Rats.  I reveal the top 3 cards and find 1 Rats, so I trash it.  Which happens first: re-ordering the other cards, or drawing my card from trashing Rats?  And if the draw happens first, what do I draw?  The first non-Rats card that Doctor revealed, or the first unrevealed card in my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T17:24:44.057" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T21:36:29.923" Title="Dominion: Doctor + Rats" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2014-04-08T17:18:22.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drawing (from trashing rats) happens first. The cards you draw are the unrevealed cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T17:18:22.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15181" CreationDate="2014-04-08T17:49:39.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It enters the battlefield under the control of Gild's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.2a. If an effect instructs a player to put an object onto the battlefield, that object enters the battlefield under that player's control unless the effect states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's Gild's controller when it resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By default, that's the player who cast Gild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By default, that's the player who owns Gild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by default, it'll come under control of the player who owns Gild, but as you can see, there are some variables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T17:11:33.283" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T17:11:33.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2014-04-08T19:10:11.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Colin is right, the Dark Ages rule book says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot; If Rats is trashed, you draw a card. This happens whether it is your&#xA;turn or another player's, and regardless of which player has the&#xA;card that trashed Rats.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the Original rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Reveal” – when a player reveals a card, he shows a card to all players and&#xA;then returns it to wherever it came from (unless instructed specifically to&#xA;put it elsewhere)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So revealed cards are not &quot;part of the deck&quot; else how could they be &quot;returned&quot; to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T19:10:11.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15228" CreationDate="2014-04-08T19:42:16.757" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have in front of me the official Rules of the Game for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.burleygames.com/board-games/kamisado/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kamisado&lt;/a&gt;. They make me wonder which player takes the opening move in a new round after filling from the left or the right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The section &quot;Filling from the Left or Rights&quot; explains that the towers &quot;can be set up in one of two ways, determined by the player who won the previous round. This player will be the Defender in the new round&quot;. So this would suggest that the player who lost the previous round takes the first turn in the next round. That's also what seems to be implemented e.g. in the online version at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yucata.de/en/GameInfo/Kamisado&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yucata&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;However the description of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardspace.net/kamisado/english/RULES%20ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Figure 7(h)&lt;/a&gt; states that the &quot;diagram shows the possible moves open to Alain with his purple Sumo dragon tower, should he decide to make his opening move with this tower&quot;. Alain has just gained a Sumo tower by winning a round, so this would suggest that the player who won the previous round takes the first turn in the next round. Only if Alain were to begin could he chose which tower to make his opening move with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that 1. is the right answer but am not yet sure. Who knows better and can explain the apparently odd description for Figure 7(h)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3453" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:30:50.293" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T19:47:28.153" Title="Apparent contradiction in official rules for Kamisado?" Tags="|kamisado|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15194" CreationDate="2014-04-08T21:31:12.923" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominion cards are always processed from the top down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To play an Action, the player takes an Action card from his hand&#xA;  and lays it face-up in his play area. He announces which card he is&#xA;  playing and follows the instructions written on that card from top&#xA;  to bottom.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=348&quot;&gt;Base rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &quot;when you trash&quot; cards interrupt the existing Action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many cards in Dark Ages do something &quot;when you trash&quot; that card. These abilities function no matter whose turn the card is trashed on. The player that a &quot;when you trash this&quot; ability functions for is the player that had that card, regardless of whose card trashed the card. These abilities happen directly after the card is put into the trash, and can function in the middle of resolving effects for an Action card; for example, if a player plays Graverobber and uses it to trash a Cultist, he first draws three cards for trashing Cultist, then continues with resolving Graverobber and gains a card costing up to $8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=620&quot;&gt;Dark Ages rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you draw the card from trashing the Rats before the cards would be put back on top of your deck because Doctor has &quot;Trash the matches.&quot; before &quot;Put the rest back on top in any order.&quot; and the Rats trashing resolves during the &quot;Trash the matches&quot; section of Doctor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="87" LastEditDate="2014-04-08T21:36:29.923" LastActivityDate="2014-04-08T21:36:29.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15215" CreationDate="2014-04-09T08:41:45.673" Score="2" ViewCount="1614" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking for an interesting sample hand in Bridge to sort of demonstrate a card game system that &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be used for Bridge &lt;em&gt;(a game I know exists, and thought I knew more-or-less the system of it, but which I do not play)&lt;/em&gt;.  I wanted to have a simulation play through a famous and well known hand...as I understand the game is studied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seemingly I was correct, and I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgewebs.com/orillia/page16.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this game&lt;/a&gt; that was apparently an old one rehashed in a James Bond movie:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dugty.png&quot; alt=&quot;James Bond vs Drax Bridge&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Okay... that's great, but that's just the hands and the bidding.  Where's the list of plays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couldn't find them.  So I looked around to try and find another &quot;famous&quot; Bridge game that listed the plays, but they all seem to just skip that.  Just the hands and maybe one small note about &quot;they ruff this&quot; or &quot;they scrobble that&quot; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it simply the case that in Bridge you can hand-wave and say that the game is essentially over once you've seen the hands and the bidding?  Because that looks to be what people do.  Can anyone give me the actual play list for this game, merely from that notation of the hands and the bids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7351" LastActivityDate="2020-10-29T18:29:40.923" Title="Why are bridge games seemingly documented only by the hands and bidding?" Tags="|bridge|notation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15234" CreationDate="2014-04-09T09:16:56.410" Score="4" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you solve a problem (easy or hard), and it has a crisis counter.... what happens with those chips? Are  simply removed from the game or they return to the initial stack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when there are only 2 players you play less crisis counters (8 or 10, I don't remember now). If these are just removed from the game, it will ran out soon (causing both players lose the game), but if they return to the stack there are more opportunities that does not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6979" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T16:39:37.657" Title="The Witches: A Discworld Board Game - Removing crisis counters" Tags="|discworld-the-witches|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15204" CreationDate="2014-04-09T13:13:54.580" Score="1" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing Risk with my four best friends and i have very rarely won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been wondering what is the best strategy to win at Risk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7352" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T16:23:29.120" Title="Risk - To secure a world domination win?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-04-11T15:05:00.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15200" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:26:29.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually play in double-dummy problems (that is problems with all hands visible) is left as an exercise to the reader. The play in this problem depends on the opening lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opening lead is not a diamond, it is ruffed in hand. A diamond is ruffed in dummy and a club played toward hand, where it is won as cheaply as possible. Another diamond is ruffed in dummy (note that the AK of diamonds have now both been played), and another club finessed. Declarer may now play his high club from hand, drawing the last trump, then the diamond queen, establishing that suit. Now declarer's hand is good the cards may be played in any order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:26:29.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2014-04-09T15:46:25.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually securing a continent and ALWAYS being on the aggressive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you keep getting Territory cards and playing them at the right time (usually after your opponents have played them first so that the count will be higher), you should always have a formidable army (i.e. so that your opponents won't want to mess with you). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other critical part to winning risk is being aggressive. You should be getting a territory card each turn usually in a quest to prevent your opponents from ever owning entire continents. This means you constantly annoy them by taking at least (and usually only) one territory of the continent they control on your turn. This prevents them from getting massive bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T15:46:25.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2014-04-09T18:05:23.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards are the the key&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;always attack each turn to gain a card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;pay attention to how many cards everyone has.  You want to wipe out other players when they have cards you can then immediately turn in for additional sets and keep going&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;do NOT attack other players if by doing so you'll just set them up for someone else to wipe out and get their cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T18:05:23.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15202" CreationDate="2014-04-09T21:51:10.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to Risk is &quot;income&quot; (in the form of armies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to dominate a small continent early (most likely Australasia or South America, possibly Africa), so you get the extra &quot;income&quot; for a whole continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure that you, or some &quot;third&quot; person maintains at least one territory on each continent, like a defensive stop in Monopoly so that no one else gets the income for a whole continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except as related to the above, do not make too many attacks too early. Just make one attack each turn, get a card, and trade them for &quot;income&quot; as soon as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T16:23:29.120" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T16:23:29.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15200" CreationDate="2014-04-09T22:10:36.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an example of a &quot;cooked&quot; deal. The defender, West, has three AK's and various assorted other values, and yet can't take a single trick because all his cards are badly positioned in the worst possible way. As a result, the hero makes a highly dubious 7 club bid, and a dubious redouble, and gets away with it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bridge hands in movies and stories are described in the way you discuss (bidding and no play) because the purpose is other than bridge (here, the idea is to make the hero, James Bond look good, even though his bidding is quite foolish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Serious&quot; bridge, as discussed in bridge books or columns, do feature play as well as bidding. The problem is that non-bridge books and literature gloss over these bridge matters for non-bridge reasons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-04-09T22:10:36.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15200" CreationDate="2014-04-10T00:07:44.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure what your question is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you looking for a repository where hands are played to the last trick? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of repositories (check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/vugraph_archives/vugraph_archives.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vugraph archive on BBO&lt;/a&gt;), but in majority of the hands, you will never see the whole hand played out, but you will see some list of plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge players hate wasting time on the obvious, and for that reason, there is the concept of &quot;claim&quot; where you stop the play by showing your hand and saying how many tricks you are going to take (stating a line of play, which is not the same as a list of plays). This is especially so in higher levels of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, in this Bond hand, just saying finessing clubs and setting up diamond is good enough for most bridge players to figure out what the sequence of plays will have to be. With the East/West hands hidden, this will become obvious once East shows out of clubs and the Diamond Ace and King fall the first two times diamonds are played (So a claim will occur after about the first 5-6 tricks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most bridge hands you find online will be a puzzle to the reader, and in most cases, just a paragraph or so are sufficient for the intelligent reader to grasp the solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you seem to be asking seems akin to posing a mathematical problem and asking for a computer verifiable proof, or a chess master announcing mate in 10 and you asking for every possible sequence from that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;btw, &quot;hand waving&quot; would not be the words I would use, especially if you have absolutely no clue about what is being talked about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T00:55:49.543" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T00:55:49.543" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13737" CreationDate="2014-04-10T01:17:57.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Interloper states &quot;&lt;strong&gt;MOVE an agent from any faction to any neighboring faction&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; and the limitation of &quot;neighboring&quot; was very deliberate since you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; still maintain the orientation of the card facing for the player that is sitting between those two neighboring factions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no card that allows moving of a card from any faction to any faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7355" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T01:17:57.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15180" CreationDate="2014-04-10T02:26:23.280" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;who intrepreted this card this way? For myself i understand it that the person who takes a grain must first pay a food to the player with the sycophant card. The owner of the card will get a grain themselves out of the supply when they take a grain for themselves. It's very clear to me. I challenge this. Is this a tournament rule ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7350" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T02:26:23.280" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15213" CreationDate="2014-04-10T03:13:55.063" Score="2" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Artisan%20of%20Forms&quot;&gt;Artisan of Forms&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heroic — Whenever you cast a spell that targets Artisan of Forms, you may have Artisan of Forms become a copy of target creature and gain this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; on it which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant creature. When enchanted creature dies, return that card to the battlefield under its owner's control. Return Gift of Immortality to the battlefield attached to that creature at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artisan of Forms' ability triggers and I make it a copy of another creature. Then my opponent destroys it. The way I would interpret the card is that Gift of Immortality will return Artisan of Forms to the battlefield in it's original form but it also seems plausible to me that it would still be a copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event it does return to it's original form can Gift of Immortality still &amp;quot;find&amp;quot; Artisan of Forms to reattach given it is now a different creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T13:23:37.280" Title="Artisan of Forms and Gift of Immortality" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15212" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-10T03:21:01.993" Score="6" ViewCount="4477" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in a hypothetical jenga game we have two players, let's call them player A and player B. Player A completes a turn, and the tower remains standing for the 10 seconds until player A's turn is over. But before player B touches the tower, it falls over. Does this count as it falling over during Player B's turn? Does player B's turn start 10 seconds after player A places a block, or when player B first touches the tower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7356" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:23:36.830" Title="Jenga: When does a player's turn begin?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15211" CreationDate="2014-04-10T04:05:43.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a permanent that's a copy of something else leaves the battlefield, it immediately reverts to its original form as printed on the card. Anything that happened to it while it was on the battlefield &lt;em&gt;has no influence whatsoever&lt;/em&gt; on it once it is in the graveyard or anywhere else (unless its effect says so). Artisan of Forms stops being a copy as soon as it leaves the battlefield, so how can it possibly still be one when it returns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is usually termed as a card moving between zones &quot;forgetting&quot; everything about what it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gift of the Immortality can find the right card in the graveyard because of one of the exceptions, but the card will still have reverted back to its original characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7d Abilities that trigger when an object moves from one zone to another (for example, “When Rancor is put into a graveyard from the battlefield”) can find the new object that it became in the zone it moved to when the ability triggered, if that zone is a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T13:23:37.280" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T13:23:37.280" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15212" CreationDate="2014-04-10T07:09:16.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/jenga.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your turn ends 10 seconds after you stack your block - or as soon as the player to your left touches one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example the tower has fallen during Player B's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T07:09:16.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15200" CreationDate="2014-04-10T09:43:20.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of a concrete list of plays, I'll give one (with the leader listed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E DJ C2 DK D2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S C3 C9 CT S2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N D3 DT C5 DA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S C6 CJ CQ S3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N CA S4 C7 CK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N DQ DJ H3 HJ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N D8 S5 H4 SJ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N D7 S6 H5 SQ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N D6 H2 H6 HQ&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N D5 H7 S7 HK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N D4 H8 S8 SK&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N C8 H9 S9 HA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;N C4 HT ST SA&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life, North would show their hand after trick 4 and say something like: &quot;I claim the rest of the tricks: The CA will pull the last trump and then I will play diamonds from the top.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T09:43:20.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15212" CreationDate="2014-04-10T14:23:36.830" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not necessarily any player's turn, but Player A would win. Not because player B caused the tower to topple - he didn't. But according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/jenga.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your turn ends 10 seconds after you stack your block - or as soon as the player to your left touches one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you're the last player to stack a block without toppling the tower,&#xA;  you win!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say that the next player's turn begins as soon as those 10 seconds are up, but it doesn't really matter. In this case, player A successfully stacked a block without toppling the tower. It wasn't that player B caused the tower to topple, it's just that player A met the win condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T14:23:36.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15178" CreationDate="2014-04-10T14:54:55.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blue burst is more valuable for simple reason. Let's compare them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blue burst:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It's more certain to hit than gold burst&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It gives +1 card advantage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It makes you immune to damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- OR -&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It gives you card advantage over opponent that thinks you are bluffing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gold burst:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It's less certain to hit than blue burst generally 50% case.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It can give opponent chance to retaliate for free&lt;br&gt;&#xA;+ It gives +1 card advantage, while it gives +2/3 card advantage compared to power-up (3 cards for 2 aces)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Other cards can achieve similar effect, and can recur more often.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- If you lose your opponent is almost guaranteed to gets some free damage in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With blue burst, you win whether opponent does something or not (assuming you played a Joker). With gold burst it's a bit more all-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="523" LastEditorUserId="523" LastEditDate="2014-04-10T18:19:55.983" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T18:19:55.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15178" CreationDate="2014-04-10T16:43:18.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty hard to math this out.  It also depends on the game situation.  For example, if you are behind by 30 HP and on the brink of death, that blue burst might save you from a dodge into attack followup, but it probably won't save you from anything else.  Even then, you might have a hard time winning after using it.  A gold burst can get you the two aces you need to have the damage in hand necessary to kill your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, characters like Argagarg and Rook cannot add a large amount of damage to their combos, so gold bursting against them is better.  Characters that have high combo potential like Valerie and Zane generally give you more opportunity to prevent damage with a blue burst.  Gold burst can only be done when you read the opponent to attack or throw so it can win combat, and should only be done when taking the risk to get aces is one of your only options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7363" LastActivityDate="2014-04-10T16:43:18.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15251" CreationDate="2014-04-10T18:26:33.447" Score="5" ViewCount="908" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Robinson Crusoe, the players are a collection of castaways on some remote island. There are 6 different scenarios, so the goals and perils of the game will change a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the game, you can &quot;invent&quot; items around camp, and various events can destroy those items. The trouble is that some items give one-shot benefits, while others give continual bonuses. For instance, the Shovel invention's benefit is &quot;you have a shovel,&quot; which is useful because inventing the Cellar requires a shovel. On the other hand, the Spear (the Soldier's item) has a one-shot effect: +3 weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when an event destroys an item with a one-shot benefit? For instance, you build a Spear, get +3 weapons, use some of those weapons, and then you lose your Spear in an event when you only have 1 weapon in camp? Can you rebuild the spear again for another +3 weapons? Do you have to lose any of your existing weapons when you lose the Spear? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T17:17:11.130" Title="What happens when you lose an invention that has a one-shot benefit?" Tags="|robinson-crusoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14197" CreationDate="2014-04-10T21:45:17.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were in a very awkward position: you had one &quot;obvious&quot; thing to do, and if you didn't do it, you would clearly be a traitor. For best results, &lt;em&gt;don't make the serum in the first place.&lt;/em&gt; Any advantages you get from remaining hidden for a few turns longer are vastly offset by creating the items that the Heroes require to win. (And you are &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; going to remain hidden for a few turns; any further requires a Sterling-silver tongue and extremely gullible players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You had three options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stall for time.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Instead&lt;/em&gt; of making the serum, you harvest extra mandrake, while claiming that you're harvesting enough for two doses &quot;to save time running around.&quot; Depending on how hard it is to get extra mandrake, this may be too obvious of a lie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run away.&lt;/strong&gt; First, walk towards the lab to stall for a turn or two, then run as far away as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MURDER.&lt;/strong&gt; If you can't plausibly pass off your actions as innocuous (and frankly, holding the serum or enough mandrake to make it means it's &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; hard), then embrace your Traitor nature and try to infect or kill the un-infected players. If you already have the serum, then bring it into combat anyway. (You could drop it in a distant room, but that will make it too easy to recover.) Your optimal targets will be:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weak against your attack (Usually Might, but it could be Speed or Sanity with the right items)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Far from other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Already have some mandrake, so their death/infection will slow down the Heroes' victory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-04-11T01:16:41.570" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T01:16:41.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15246" CreationDate="2014-04-10T23:39:06.620" Score="6" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;In scenario 3 of Robinson Crusoe, your task is to build a raft to rescue Jenny, and then build a lifeboat to escape your deserted island before a hurricane arrives. (Let us not consider the wisdom of &quot;sailing through a hurricane in a cobbled-together lifeboat&quot; too much.) Until you rescue Jenny, she takes some damage every round; after you rescue her, she does nothing but rest and eat your food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of Jenny's terrible post-rescue utility, my last game involved abandoning Jenny for quite some time before getting around to constructing a raft. As it happened, she had exactly one wound remaining when we rescued her, and we rolled the dice and got a random event when we did. The random event was &quot;you're lost and will be outside the camp tonight.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this mean Jenny is outside the camp, or could she plausibly have returned to the camp while you remain lost?&lt;/strong&gt; (In this case, being outside the camp would cause 3 wounds: 1 from lack of shelter, and 2 from lack of food.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The first explanation is the most obvious, but I argued for the second on the theory that Jenny is, in every important way, a separate character, and that the event happened to the character who explored, rather than to Jenny.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T14:17:52.340" Title="What happens if you get lost while rescuing Jenny?" Tags="|robinson-crusoe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2014-04-11T09:02:14.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had three variants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for a more casual play, you can discard cards and draw replacements whenever you want. this lifts some of the mental blocks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player must play the same clue twice in a row, so he has to choose his clue wisely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a catch-up mechanic - the player with the least points gets to play two cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7370" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T14:07:49.910" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T14:07:49.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15198" CreationDate="2014-04-11T10:08:43.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must add third fact from the official Rules (in the &quot;Opening Moves&quot; section):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(3). &quot;In any round, the player that moves first is known as the Challenger. The other player is known as the Defender for that round.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is &quot;hidden&quot; in the basic rules, not where expected - after Filling L/R. The facts (1) and (3) together suggest the option 1: the player who lost in the previous round takes the opening move. That convinced &lt;em&gt;me&lt;/em&gt; (I had the same hesitation). There is the common sense also - the opening move is said to give considerable advantage, so the loosing player could recover and the match would prolong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the description for Figure 7(h) must be simply an overlook, and should instead read: &quot;diagram shows the possible moves open to Alain with his purple Sumo dragon tower, if he gets the opportunity to make move with purple and if nothing is blocking the purple tower&quot;. Too complicated; the figure should have been taken from another match not to confuse people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7354" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T10:08:43.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15232" CreationDate="2014-04-11T12:05:26.913" Score="0" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to page 62 of the Codex: Blood Angels (5th), the Space Marine Bike are equipped with twin-linked bolter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the army list, neither Attack Bike Squad nor Bike Squad mentions this option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that even if not mentionned in the army list (and not errata has been written on this), the attack bike will thus have the TL bolter + a heavy bolter. Both SM on the bikes also carry a bolter pistol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that during the shooting phase I can fire both TL bolter and heavy bolter (same target)? Or that I can fire the heavy bolter and a bolter pistol, or even just two bolter pistols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if an attack bike loses a life point (out of two), can I still fire both TL bolter and heavy bolter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:51:12.630" Title="Space Marine Attack Bike Twin-Linked bolter" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15233" CreationDate="2014-04-11T12:12:01.560" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming a drop pod place 2 inch away from a 6 inch wide impassible terrain (eg: river of lava).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drop pod deviation says that it has to deviate 12 inches, in the direction that passes above said impassible terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the drop pod stops deviation at the first boundary of the impassible terrain (and thus deviate only 2 inches), or does it cross/passes over the terrain since it can be placed freely on the other side of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T15:21:49.443" Title="Drop pod deviation above terrain" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4982" CreationDate="2014-04-11T14:54:55.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also a few expansions out there.  Increasing the pool of images helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6381" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T14:54:55.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15229" CreationDate="2014-04-11T15:17:04.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a bike you can fire as many weapons as there are riders.  So an attack bike can fire up to two weapons since it has two riders.  This is regardless of how-many wounds the bike has sustained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entry for the the Space Maine bike in the equipment list will indicate which weapons it has.  Much like the entry for Terminator Armor indicates that it allows deep-striking. The twin linked bolter is mentioned there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is no good reason to shoot anything but the heavy weapon and the twin linked bolter.  You suffer no penalties for using them on a bike and are hands down a better option than the pistol in every way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T15:17:04.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15230" CreationDate="2014-04-11T15:21:49.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Drop pods scatter 2D6 inches.  If the scatter does not take the model fully over a piece of impassible terrain, it stops at the edge of the impassible terrain.  If the model can be physically placed on the other side of the terrain moving no further than the rolled distance-even if that would put it off the edge of the playing area-it must then be placed on the other side of the terrain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sames goes for enemy units encountered by a drop pod scatter roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T15:21:49.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15201" CreationDate="2014-04-11T16:39:37.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crisis counter is returned to general stock (initial pool) and reused later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules under Success! (p.7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a Crisis counter on the Problem tile then it is returned to the general stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T16:39:37.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15237" CreationDate="2014-04-11T18:04:31.497" Score="9" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent was in his second main phase, sitting silently for about a minute. He finally gestured towards me and said, &quot;Draw.&quot; I drew. My opponent then shouted, &quot;Judge!&quot; and told the judge that I drew a card on his turn. The judge listened to my side of the story. The judge asked, &quot;Did the card that you drew touch your hand?&quot;. I said, &quot;Yes.&quot; The judge subsequently gave me a game loss for drawing an extra card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurred at a Competitive REL Standard event in late February of 2014. I did not appeal the ruling with the floor judge. I should have, but I was in shock and there was so much blood rushing to my head that I wasn't thinking clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I have been given a game loss for drawing? Does &quot;Draw.&quot; constitute a shortcut for &quot;I would like to pass all priority until the next Draw step&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:31:42.203" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:31:42.203" Title="Communication - Saying &quot;Draw&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-11T18:06:57.223" Score="2" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a unit goes to ground while behind an Aegis defense line (or some other &quot;high&quot; terrain), do we still consider them visible and potential targets for other shooting attacks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, they're lying on the ground behind a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T20:13:09.917" Title="Going to ground behind a Aegis defense line" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2014-04-11T18:48:56.613" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules are not definitively on your side but you definitely should have appealed the ruling. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot;&gt;MTG Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; section 2.3, the default penalty for drawing an extra card is a game loss. However, it also says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the player received confirmation from his or her opponent before drawing the card (including confirming the number of cards when greater than one), the infraction is not Drawing Extra Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and your opponent's saying &quot;Draw&quot; and pointing to you arguably counts as confirmation that you should draw for your next turn. This argument might be difficult to make though because &quot;Draw&quot; is not listed explicitly in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF2.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; list of shortcuts (section 4.2) for passing priority until your opponent's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is another argument to be made that you should not have lost. The Infraction Procedure Guide Drawing Extra Cards section says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player illegally puts one or more cards into his or her hand and, at the moment before he or she began the instruction or action that put a card into his or her hand, &lt;strong&gt;no other Game Play Error or &lt;em&gt;Communication Policy Violation&lt;/em&gt; had been committed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One relevant piece of free information (as specified in section 4.1 of the Tournament Rules) is &quot;The current step and/or phase and which player(s) are active&quot;, and the Infraction Procedure guide says in the Communication Policy Violation section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may not represent derived or free information incorrectly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would argue that your opponent did just that when they said &quot;Draw&quot;, which means that the judge should have followed the procedure in this section instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the situation is simple enough to safely back up without too much disruption to the course of the game, the judge may get permission from the Head Judge to back up the game to the point of the incorrect information. Each action taken is undone until the game reaches the point immediately prior to the error. &lt;strong&gt;Cards incorrectly placed in hand are returned to the location in the zone from which they were moved (if the identity of the incorrectly drawn card is not known to all players, a random card is returned instead)&lt;/strong&gt;. Once the game is backed up, it continues from that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T18:48:56.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15236" CreationDate="2014-04-11T19:47:39.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The same rules of true Line Of Sight apply regardless of gone-to-ground status.  We can assume the enemy has radios, some M41 version of IR scanners, etc and knows there's somebody there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a practical standpoint, it's just bad game balance/design to allow someone to shoot you without moving if you weren't able to shoot them on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhammer 40K is very much an abstract game played with pieces that look like soldiers.  It does not try to be a simulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T19:47:39.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2014-04-11T20:02:25.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;[ Just answering the question that hasn't been answered yet. ]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does &quot;Draw.&quot; constitute a shortcut for &quot;I would like to pass all priority until the next Draw step&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Not unless you and the other players had previously come to an agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are the officially recognized shortcuts according to the Tournament Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Certain conventional tournament shortcuts used in Magic are detailed below. If a player wishes to deviate from these, he or she should be explicit about doing so. Note that some of these are exceptions to the policy above in that they do cause non-explicit priority passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The statement &quot;Go&quot; (and equivalents such as &quot;Your turn&quot; and &quot;Done&quot;) offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the end step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A statement such as &quot;I'm ready for combat&quot; or &quot;Declare attackers?&quot; offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the beginning of combat step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Whenever a player adds an object to the stack, he or she is assumed to be passing priority unless he or she explicitly announces that he or she intends to retain it. If he or she adds a group of objects to the stack without explicitly retaining priority and a player wishes to take an action at a point in the middle, the actions should be reversed up to that point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&quot;No attacks&quot; or similar statements by the active player during combat offers to pass priority until an opponent has priority in the end of combat step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If a player casts a spell or activates an ability with X in its mana cost without specifying the value of X, it is assumed to be for all mana currently available in his or her pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If a player casts a spell or activates an ability and announces choices for it that are not normally made until resolution, the player must adhere to those choices unless an opponent responds to that spell or ability. If an opponent inquires about choices made during resolution, that player is assumed to be passing priority and allowing that spell or ability to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A player is assumed to have paid any cost of 0 unless he or she announces otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A player who casts a spell or activates an ability that targets an object on the stack is assumed to target the legal target closest to the top of the stack unless the player specifies otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A player is assumed to be attacking another player and not any planeswalkers that player may control unless the attacking player specifies otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A player who chooses a planeswalker as the target of a spell or ability that would deal damage is assumed to be targeting the planeswalker’s controller and redirecting the damage on resolution. The player must adhere to that choice unless an opponent responds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In the Two-Headed Giant format, attacking creatures are assumed to be assigning combat damage to the defending team's primary head, unless the creature's controller specifies otherwise.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T04:38:59.823" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T04:38:59.823" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15235" CreationDate="2014-04-11T22:00:38.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of someone saying &quot;Draw&quot; to mean the same thing as &quot;pass turn&quot; or the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is typically used as confirmation that you will be drawing a card. For example, one might say &quot;Draw&quot; after casting a card draw spell, for example &quot;Draw 2&quot; while resolving Divination. This is to protect yourself from receiving a game loss if you are somehow mistaken about the amount of cards you should be drawing (or whether you should be drawing) since, as another answer posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the player received confirmation from his or her opponent before drawing the card (including confirming the number of cards when greater than one), the infraction is not Drawing Extra Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent then has the opportunity to correct your mistake, whereas if you just drew you might draw the wrong number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Draw&quot; is also commonly used during upkeep to mean &quot;go to my draw step&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important distinction in all of these cases is that the player saying &quot;draw&quot; is confirming that HE will be the one drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7371" LastActivityDate="2014-04-11T22:00:38.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15285" CreationDate="2014-04-13T01:38:04.300" Score="4" ViewCount="476" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a 5 or more player game of Twilight Imperium and someone is completely removed from the game, do you revert to picking two strategy cards each as per a 4 player game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7000" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:16:58.993" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:16:58.993" Title="Do rules revert to 4 player rules midgame if someone gets eliminated?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15247" CreationDate="2014-04-13T05:59:10.803" Score="4" ViewCount="1088" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with 5 or more players, you should draw 2 monsters when opening a gate during the Mythos phase. Should you also draw 2 monsters when an encounter says that &quot;a gate and a monster appear&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T20:21:17.440" Title="How many monsters should be drawn in a 5 player game during an encounter?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15243" CreationDate="2014-04-13T13:07:36.590" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, a player cannot be eliminated from the game. He can lose all of his plastic figures, but still after each round he participates in the strategy- and action card distribution, by which he can affect the gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion from this would be that if the house wants to enable dropping a player, then it's house-rules specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7376" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T13:07:36.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15224" CreationDate="2014-04-13T14:12:57.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that there is room for interpretation. Clearly, once Jenny &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; in the camp she is affected from cards effects, weather, having no shelter etc. However, I would say that Jenny &lt;strong&gt;is not&lt;/strong&gt; in the camp in your situation, but neither on the rock. Remember that if a character has to spend the night outside of the camp, then all the resources he got in his action are not available for the whole group, but only for the character himself. So in this case I would say that Jenny is kind of a gathered resource. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happens often in the game that you run in situations like this. As a rule of thumb, take the action that does the most harm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3069" LastActivityDate="2014-04-13T14:12:57.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15244" CreationDate="2014-04-13T21:59:25.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The draw 2 rule for 5+ players only affects the number of monsters placed on newly opened gates in the Mythos Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not affect the number of monsters drawn at any other time in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual rule from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (page 10) states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exception:&lt;/strong&gt; If there are five or more investigators playing, then draw and place two monsters instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while the rule itself is worded vaguely enough that it could be misread as affecting other cases where you draw monsters, the placement of the rule within the rulebook is specific - this exception is only ever stated within the section that explains the Mythos phase, and is never repeated elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entry in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horrom FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 2) is even more specific about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When opening a gate in a location where there is no elder &#xA;  sign or gate, if there are five or more investigators playing, &#xA;  then draw and place two monsters instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This passage refers to the page where the Mythos phase is explained, thus it is only ever applied to drawing monsters when placing Gate markers during this phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-04-15T07:39:12.547" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T07:39:12.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15249" CreationDate="2014-04-13T23:54:53.967" Score="4" ViewCount="1971" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2634&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lava Burst&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; work with hexproof/shroud ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2634&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lava Burst&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; text says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Lava Burst would deal damage to a creature, that damage &lt;strong&gt;can't be prevented&lt;/strong&gt; or dealt instead to another creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &lt;em&gt;hexproof&lt;/em&gt; / &lt;em&gt;shroud&lt;/em&gt; ability also say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This creature can't be the target of spells or abilities ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does it actually work? Can &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2634&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lava Burst&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; damage a &lt;em&gt;hexproof&lt;/em&gt; / &lt;em&gt;shroud&lt;/em&gt; creature, or can't that creature be targeted at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T10:22:02.560" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T20:49:44.967" Title="How does Lava Burst work with hexproof/shroud?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15248" CreationDate="2014-04-14T00:31:15.393" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Lava Burst &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; damage a creature with shroud or an opponent's creature with hexproof. An opponent's creature with hexproof or shroud can't be the target of &lt;strong&gt;anything&lt;/strong&gt; you control, period. The &amp;quot;cannot be prevented&amp;quot; text only means that prevention effects do not prevent or change that damage. The relevant rules here are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;615.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Some continuous effects are prevention effects. Like replacement effects (see rule 614), prevention effects apply continuously as events happen -- they aren't locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a damage event that would happen and completely or partially prevent the damage that would be dealt. They act like &amp;quot;shields&amp;quot; around whatever they're affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;615.11.&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects state that damage &amp;quot;can't be prevented.&amp;quot; If unpreventable damage would be dealt, any applicable prevention effects are still applied to it. Those effects won't prevent any damage, but any additional effects they have will take place. Existing damage prevention shields won't be reduced by damage that can't be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T20:49:44.967" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15248" CreationDate="2014-04-14T13:29:06.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's quite simple: Hexproof and Shroud don't prevent &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt;; they prevent &lt;em&gt;targeting&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lava%20Burst&quot;&gt;Lava Burst&lt;/a&gt; cannot target something with Hexproof, something Lava Burst must do far before it tries to deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T14:02:38.440" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T14:02:38.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15221" CreationDate="2014-04-14T17:17:11.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 16, of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/83030/rules-english-portal-publishing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Portal Edition rulebook&lt;/a&gt; it states that when flipping a item card over, that &quot;If the Item had an additional effect, you should cancel it&#xA;if possible.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you lost, say, the Spear, you should reduce your weapon level by 3, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier on the same page, it mentions the phrase &quot;if possible&quot;, and clarifies that if you cannot pay that cost, nothing happens, and the Rule of Unfilled Demand does not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T17:17:11.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15160" CreationDate="2014-04-14T18:53:30.950" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a more concrete and official answer, this is from the Wizards of the Coast &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot;&gt;errata page&lt;/a&gt; for the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much do you have to reveal about what you are doing to the other side?&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;   You should announce the purpose of any action you are taking to the other side -- for instance, &quot;I am making an exorcism roll now,&quot; or &quot;This roll is to see whether the house blows up.&quot; You don't need to reveal what number you need to roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6724" LastEditorUserId="6724" LastEditDate="2014-04-14T22:06:03.590" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T22:06:03.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15256" CreationDate="2014-04-14T21:51:59.120" Score="2" ViewCount="425" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going through old bridge books (by e.g., George Coffin), I was struck by the fact that some 3NT contracts made easily with &quot;only&quot; 24-25 and a good five card suit, while if both declarer and dummy had flat (4-4-3-2 or 4-3-3-3) distributions, a 3NT contract could be difficult even with 28-29. Intuitively, it seems logical that a fifth card in a good five card suit could be worth a king or even and ace, that is, the difference between 24-25 and 28-29. It almost seems like the &quot;standard&quot; 26-27 high card point (hcp) requirement is an averaging of these two polar cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are five card suits of varying caliber. All other things being equal, a 5-3 fit is much better than a 5-2 fit (unless you have three or four of the top honors with the 5-2 fit). And a &quot;5-3&quot; fit of xxxxx opposite xxx isn't worth much, except as a stopper. But here, we're talking about a normal eight card suit situation with more than half the hcps between declarer and dummy. That is, six or seven hcps in the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the advantage of a five card suit been demonstrated either empirically or by experts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Empirically, are there databases of e.g. tournaments that show that more than 50 percent of 3NT contracts are made with, say, 24 hcps and good five card suits (or even random five card suits), while you need many more hcps to have a better than a 50-50 chance of succeeding if your longest suit is four cards in one hand? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For expert views, are there any experts who say, if you are responding to 1NT (15-17) with a hand that has nine hcps, and one five card suit of say, KQJxx feel free to jump to 3NT which partner is likely to make even with a minimum? Whereas you should hold back to 2NT even with ten hcp if your best suit is only KQJx? Alternatively, would such an expert advocating raising a response of 2NT to 3NT with say, 16 hcp and a suit like KQJxx, while passing 2NT with 17 hcp and KQJx as your best suit? (In these examples, your main suit has the same honors in each case, and differ only in length, by one &quot;2.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T23:23:48.657" Title="Has the value of a five-card suit in no trump contracts been demonstrated?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15257" CreationDate="2014-04-14T22:38:32.177" Score="2" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have four &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning-Tree%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Burning-Tree Emissary&lt;/a&gt; and one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Firefist%20Striker&quot;&gt;Firefist Striker&lt;/a&gt; on the field. My opponent is in his Precombat Main Phase. We are under Competitive Rules Enforcement Level (REL). The following actions occur in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent taps three &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent announces that he is casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bile%20Blight&quot;&gt;Bile Blight&lt;/a&gt; targeting a Burning-Tree Emissary, which he points at.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silence for three seconds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent taps two Swamp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponents announces that he is casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devour%20Flesh&quot;&gt;Devour Flesh&lt;/a&gt; targeting me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I immediately offer to let Devour Flesh resolve (because I am super excited that I now get the opportunity to sacrifice the target of Bile Blight).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is where the problem begins. My opponent tried to back out of his play by declaring that he had not yet paid the costs for Devour Flesh. I had assumed that the mana he produced from his swamps was going to pay for his spell, but he didn't explicitly &lt;em&gt;say&lt;/em&gt; that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What verbal and nonverbal actions must one take to pay the costs for a spell? Are there any weird exceptions like &amp;quot;I didn't take my hand off the card&amp;quot; or other? How can I confirm that a cost has been paid without being ridiculously annoying and tedious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T16:39:06.180" Title="Paying a Cost and Communicating" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15254" CreationDate="2014-04-14T23:23:48.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will start by saying that a 26-27 hcp requirement for games is old-fashioned in the extreme. I most often see a recommendation of 25 hcp for 3NT or 4M games, and occasionally see that shaded to 24 hcp. Along those lines, I raise a 15-17 1NT to game with nearly any 9-count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably more useful than upgrading 5332 hands is downgrading 4333 hands. Many players subtract 1 high-card point for 4333 shape. 4432 hands play much better than 4333 hands, and so don't deserve the same treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all that being said, high card points are a fairly crude tool for hand evaluation. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Losing-Trick_Count&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Losing trick count&lt;/a&gt; can supplement HCP as an aid to hand evaluation, though it is much more useful when a good trump fit has been found than when responding to 1NT. However, I mention it as it helps validate your intuition that a fifth card in a suit is worth more than a third card in a suit, all else being equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-14T23:23:48.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15255" CreationDate="2014-04-15T02:59:10.127" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent tried to back out of his play by declaring that he had not yet paid the costs for Devour Flesh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't allow him to back out in the scenario you described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are the steps to casting a spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2a) Place the card on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2b-d) Make some choices including targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2e) Determine the total cost to cast the spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2f) Activate mana abilities if desired if the cost has a mana component.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(601.2g) Pay the total cost to cast the spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only did he announce what he is casting (part of step 601.2a), he announced targets (part of 601.2c). There's no question that he started casting the spell. There's is only one condition under which the casting of the spell can be undone: The player becomes unable to comply with the instructions&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2]&lt;/sup&gt;. For example, the casting of the spell can be undone if the caster becomes unable to pay the spell's costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's pretend for a moment that his mana pool was empty. He cannot be forced to tap lands to produce the mana required to pay the spell&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.3c]&lt;/sup&gt;. If he chose not to tap any lands in step 601.2f, he won't be able to pay the cost when it comes time to do so in step 601.2g, which undoes the casting of the spell&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2][1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, his mana pool isn't empty. He &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; comply with the instruction to pay the cost, so he must&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. At no point is he unable to comply with any of the steps required to cast a spell, so nothing allows him to undo the casting of the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. [...] If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.3c Activating mana abilities is not mandatory, even if paying a cost is&lt;sup&gt;[3]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2f If the total cost includes a mana payment, the player then has a chance to activate mana abilities (see rule 605, “Mana Abilities”). Mana abilities must be activated before costs are paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2g The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how tolerant judges are of this practice, but that's a separate issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the game instructs you to do something, you must do it if you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In fact, you are never compelled to create a situation where you could pay a cost. 117.3c is just a specific case of a general rule, though the general rule appears to be unwritten. For example, see the last sentence of the first ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avatar%20of%20Slaughter&quot;&gt;Avatar of Slaughter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T16:39:06.180" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T16:39:06.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T13:26:36.040" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the characters' special abilities allow them to have an additional card, such as a spell card, at the beginning of their setup. What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7385" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T00:00:42.003" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T00:00:42.003" Title="Elder Sign charater traits" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15258" CreationDate="2014-04-15T13:38:54.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;These cards are starting equipment.  At the beginning of the game draw those cards and place them in front of yourself.  They are no different than cards that you squire through out play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These abilities grant no ongoing benefit once the game starts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T13:38:54.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15261" CreationDate="2014-04-15T17:02:20.883" Score="4" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a card that allows me to trash 2 cards from my hand (like Chapel).  I trash Market Square and another card.  Are the cards trashed simultaneously or sequentially?  Does either possibility allow me to use Market Square's effect?  If so, where does the Market Square end up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:40:45.523" Title="Trashing Market Square and another card at the same time" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15260" CreationDate="2014-04-15T17:58:07.667" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards are trashed at the same time, so if you are trashing Market Square, you would not be allowed to discard Market Square for its effect also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You choose all the cards you want to trash, and then trash them at the same time; you don't trash them one-by-one. This matters for interactions with Dark Ages cards with on-trash abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Chapel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy Wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from the Dark Ages rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When two or more cards are trashed at the same time, as with Count, first trash them all, then pick an order to resolve things that happen due to trashing them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-16T15:40:45.523" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:40:45.523" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15260" CreationDate="2014-04-15T18:07:43.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't gain a gold by trashing Market Square, only by discarding it.  Once you've trashed it you can't then discard it.  Consequently you can't gain a gold by using Chapel to trash it and another card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can see to trash the Market Square &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; use its ability is by discarding it, reshuffling, picking it up again and then trashing it.  This could be done using the Doctor with a bit of luck (or a very small deck):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a Gold and a Silver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy a Doctor for 5 (overpaying by 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick up the only card in your deck and trash it (Doctor overpay ability 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard Market Square from your hand and gain a Gold&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle your discard pile and place as a new deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw the top card (which turns out to be the same Market Square) and trash it (Doctor overpay ability 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T18:07:43.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15266" CreationDate="2014-04-15T22:02:09.507" Score="3" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about getting the board game Eclipse, but before I actually take the plunge and buy the game, I would like to get a better idea of whether or not I would actually be able to get my friends to play with me.  I have gotten them to play things like 7 Wonders and Settlers of Catan, and they seemed to have enjoyed it, but I would definitely not consider them &quot;gamers&quot; and I know they have a tendency to prefer games that are not overly complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have taken a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5496950/Eclipse-rules/Eclipse_rules_EN_compr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, and honestly, it seems quite complicated.  That being said, a lot of games I've played have seem complicated at first sight, but upon actually learning the game, are actually quite easy.  In the case of Eclipse, I'm having a hard time really learning the game without any actual pieces in front of me, so it's more difficult for me to decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Eclipse the sort of game you can convince nongamers to play and actually enjoy?  In particular, it would be nice to have a rough estimate as to the amount of time it would take to teach someone completely new to the game (and the genre) how to play (assuming I have already learned everything myself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Apologizes in advance if this question is too subjective or vague.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7381" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T05:56:31.520" Title="Eclipse for nongamers" Tags="|teaching|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-04-21T02:06:55.767" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-15T22:08:35.473" Score="2" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple of years ago I bought a game that I absolutely adored. Unfortunately I lent it to a friend, never got it back and haven't been able to find it since. Can anyone help? I don't know the name of it, but basically it was a white plastic case that the little see through monsters could be stored in but it was also the game board. The monsters were red, blue and green and they could be stacked on top of one another, but only in a certain order. The aim of the game was that you would start with the monsters set up in a certain pattern and then had to work out how to move and stack them into a single pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7389" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T12:55:27.367" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T12:55:27.367" Title="Monster Stacking Puzzle Game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15264" CreationDate="2014-04-15T22:55:29.510" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.passionforpuzzles.com/puzzles/cannibal-monsters-logic-puzzle&quot;&gt;http://www.passionforpuzzles.com/puzzles/cannibal-monsters-logic-puzzle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannibal Monsters is your game maybe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2014-04-15T22:55:29.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15263" CreationDate="2014-04-16T05:56:31.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eclipse is a complicated game. If you have never taught the game yourself, expect a teaching game to take 4-7 hours.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It took me about 20-30 minutes to learn the game. I am an experienced gamer, had browsed the rulebook, and the player teaching me had taught others before. &lt;strong&gt;For a first-time teacher and inexperienced players, I estimate teaching will take at least an hour.&lt;/strong&gt; While each one of the actions is relatively straightforward, there are a lot of them, and the way they interact is not always obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a small example of the complexity of the rules, consider the ability to take weakened Reaction actions after passing. First, players must remember that this is possible. They won't understand until they understand &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; you would want to do take these inefficient actions, and at least one player likely won't grasp why one player would pass before or after the rest. (The way the influence discs serve a dual purpose in choosing actions and controlling systems, while a beautiful mechanism, isn't like anything else your players are likely to have come across.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider, for example, the fact that every technology tile is referenced only by a name and icon. The icons provide a useful reminder of what the technology does, but in general the players will probably have to spend a lot of time referencing what potential technology purchases may do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that your players are relatively inexperienced at games in general may also mean the rules take longer to understand. For example, to an experienced gamer, the icon for a Reputation symbol outline and Ambassador outline clearly indicates &quot;this is a spot that can hold either a Reputation tile or an Ambassador&quot;. To at least one of your inexperienced group, this will probably not be so intuitive and, like every other detail, it will have to be spelled out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/72125/eclipse&quot;&gt;BGG survey&lt;/a&gt; lists the best number of players as 4 or 6, and I agree; but I expect that a first game will take no less than an hour per player, plus teaching time. Expect it to take an entire evening or good chunk of a weekend day with a meal break. With experience the game can be made much quicker, but with entirely inexperienced players, it might even go longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the tone of your question and your hesitance, &lt;strong&gt;I do not recommend that you purchase Eclipse with the expectation that this group will enjoy it.&lt;/strong&gt; There is a good chance that they will not. If you can somehow borrow a copy, I would give it a try; I have also been told that the iPad version is quite good (and inexpensive). Playing on the iPad would not only let you know whether you like the game, but also give you familiarity with the rules which would make teaching much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T05:56:31.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15229" CreationDate="2014-04-16T15:51:12.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bikes have the relentless rule so you can always rapid fire the twinlinked bolter as well as the heavy bolter, the only think that will stop you firing is turbo boosting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In answer to your second question in the comment the bikers carry a pistol to gain a second attack if you arm then with a close combat weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My biker seargent has a power axe so when he get into combat he has and axe and a pistol so gets an extra attack for two close combat weapons.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is commonly understood that the codex overules the rulebook where rules differ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:51:12.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15236" CreationDate="2014-04-16T15:57:36.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All fire is simultaneous so there is no other shooting all shot's will be take at the same time from a game point of view. We tend to do think unit by unit as that is how humans think best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the point of view of your unit they go to ground from being shot at in general not from being shot at from a specific unit, all they see is the bullets flying over head all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why the true line of sight rules apply even after you have gone to ground as you would have gone to ground after every unit had taken aim.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T15:57:36.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15270" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-16T16:09:06.123" Score="4" ViewCount="18132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a modern affinity deck with all the usual cards, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbound%20Ravager&quot;&gt;Arcbound Ravager&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Etched%20Champion&quot;&gt;Etched Champion&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Inkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; and the like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is I can't afford the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Opal&quot;&gt;Mox Opal&lt;/a&gt;s - they're over £200 for the play set and that's just crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mox Opals are used both for early mana ramp and mana colour fixing, not to mention thay are zero cost artifacts that power Metalcraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I need a card or cards to replace the 4 Mox Opal missing from the deck that will replicate their function as best as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T01:55:48.107" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T01:12:26.010" Title="Modern affinity deck without Mox Opal" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2014-04-16T18:50:16.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Prices below are approximations for singles, not playsets, using TCGPlayer prices as of 4/16/2014)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fellwar%20Stone&quot;&gt;Fellwar Stone&lt;/a&gt; relies on your opponent having color-producing lands. ~$0.50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Star%20Compass&quot;&gt;Star Compass&lt;/a&gt; relies on you having color-producing lands. ~$0.25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coldsteel%20Heart&quot;&gt;Coldsteel Heart&lt;/a&gt; comes into play tapped and produces only one color (chosen as it enters the battlefield). ~$1.50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Bloom&quot;&gt;Lotus Bloom&lt;/a&gt; takes 3 turns to enter the battlefield and sacrifices itself, although it produces 3 mana. Note: You can recur Lotus Bloom (with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Salvaging%20Station&quot;&gt;Salvaging Station&lt;/a&gt;) without waiting 3 turns. ~$5.00&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Paradise%20Mantle&quot;&gt;Paradise Mantle&lt;/a&gt; can turn any of your creatures into a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;. ~$1.25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Springleaf%20Drum&quot;&gt;Springleaf Drum&lt;/a&gt; produces similar results to Paradise Mantle, without equip costs or caring about summoning sickness. ~$0.50&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Talisman cycle (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Talisman%20of%20Dominance&quot;&gt;Talisman of Dominance&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) and the Signet cycle (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Signet&quot;&gt;Azorius Signet&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) are both options as well, though each only produces 2 colors. The Signet cycle, while a net gain in mana, requires another mana source to use. The Talisman cycle requires taking damage in order to get colored mana. ~$0.25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, none of the above is really going to compare to &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; mox, even Mox Opal, the baby of the group. There's a reason Opal costs so much more!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-04-16T18:50:16.520" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15270" CreationDate="2014-04-17T05:23:51.090" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start by accepting that your deck won't be as straight-up competitive as it could be with Mox Opal — it's a staple, and &lt;strong&gt;cutting staples, especially for budget reasons, inevitably involves giving away some percentage points here or there&lt;/strong&gt;. Maybe you can gain some improvements in unusual matchups, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#What does Mox Opal do for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider what Affinity does, in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Affinity is a fast aggressive creature deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Generally, Affinity is an &amp;quot;all-in&amp;quot; deck. The Affinity player wants to dump their hand onto the battlefield as quickly possible in order to power up a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Plating&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt;. The deck mainly relies on speed to blank a lot of your opponent's card. You have a few cards to dig you out of a stall (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Etched%20Champion&quot;&gt;Etched Champion&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtcast&quot;&gt;Thoughtcast&lt;/a&gt;) but you really aren't trying to grind down an opponent slowly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It plays a bit like a combo deck, sacrificing individual card power for massive synergy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's significant redundancy in kill conditions. Cranial Plating, Ravager + Inkmoth, Signal-Pest-powered beatdown, &amp;amp;c. But your deck generally sucks if you don't have one of your key cards out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does Mox Opal do in that deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's an &lt;strong&gt;accelerator&lt;/strong&gt;. You can use it to put a Cranial Plating or an Arcbound Ravager down on the field on turn 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;color-fixing&lt;/strong&gt; in a deck that plays lots of colorless lands (up to 12) and 2-4 colors of spells. Don't underestimate the value of being able to make BB to move Cranial Plating around at instant speed, as well!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's an artifact. It ups your &lt;strong&gt;artifact count&lt;/strong&gt; for Cranial Plating, Thoughtcast, and Etched Champion. You can sac it to Ravager. It'll keep your Glimmervoid from dying.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's &lt;strong&gt;free&lt;/strong&gt;. You can dump an Opal onto the field without disrupting the flow of the rest of your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's a &lt;strong&gt;non-creature&lt;/strong&gt; artifact so it'll survive sweepers (besides the ones people sideboard specifically to hose you). I don't think that's as important right now, ever since Zoo pushed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyroclasm&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt; out of the format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a tough act to follow!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Suggested alternatives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my best shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to remember that &lt;strong&gt;consistently executing the deck's overall concept is more important than finding a direct functional replacement for the mana rock&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The closest thing to Mox Opal in functionality is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Springleaf%20Drum&quot;&gt;Springleaf Drum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You should be playing a playset of these already, though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can also just &lt;strong&gt;add lands&lt;/strong&gt;. Replacing 4 Opals with 4 lands won't do good things for your deck, of course, but you could totally add 1-2 lands. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gemstone%20Mine&quot;&gt;Gemstone Mine&lt;/a&gt; (already a staple) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=City%20of%20Brass&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Confluence&quot;&gt;Mana Confluence&lt;/a&gt; are decent picks for multicolor support.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Paradise%20Mantle&quot;&gt;Paradise Mantle&lt;/a&gt; is a 0-cost card that's basically &lt;strong&gt;a worse Springleaf Drum&lt;/strong&gt;. It's a bit harder to get explosive starts with it due to summoning sickness. The main knock against it, though, is that doubling up on Springleaf Drums stretches your creature base pretty thin. I'd playtest 2 rather than the full 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;a 0-cost cantrip&lt;/strong&gt;. You can run these in the hopes of just getting to your other cards quicker. (It is way better for this purpose than &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mishra%27s%20Bauble&quot;&gt;Mishra&amp;#39;s Bauble&lt;/a&gt;, which is an artifact but pretty terrible.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chromatic%20Star&quot;&gt;Chromatic Star&lt;/a&gt; is a bit slow for this deck but it might be &lt;strong&gt;a decent color-fixer&lt;/strong&gt; in a pinch. It cantrips if you feed it to a Ravager, and it counts for Thoughtcast's affinity even if you sac it to make blue mana for the spell (because you calculate costs first, then pay them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many Affinity decks already play a &lt;strong&gt;singleton &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Welding%20Jar&quot;&gt;Welding Jar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. So try 1-2 and see how far that takes you. It's great for pushing through an Inkmoth kill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can always just &lt;strong&gt;up the creature count&lt;/strong&gt; and play it more like a beatdown deck. Affinity typically runs some mix of &amp;quot;lords&amp;quot; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Signal%20Pest&quot;&gt;Signal Pest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steel%20Overseer&quot;&gt;Steel Overseer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Etherium&quot;&gt;Master of Etherium&lt;/a&gt;. Just add the one you don't have already. (If you have all of those already: did you take out &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vault%20Skirge&quot;&gt;Vault Skirge&lt;/a&gt; or something? Try putting that Vault Skirge back in.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can experiment with &lt;strong&gt;maindecking hate cards&lt;/strong&gt;, especially if you play in a relatively small and cozy environment where you know what decks you'll face:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellskite&quot;&gt;Spellskite&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Revoker&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt; are nifty creatures that can mess up a lot of decks (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ethersworn%20Canonist&quot;&gt;Ethersworn Canonist&lt;/a&gt;, too, but you're cutting color depth so I'd stay away from colored artifacts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relic%20of%20Progenitus&quot;&gt;Relic of Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; is a great non-creature pick, since it cantrips and gives you splash hate against decks that run Goyf and Snapcaster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grafdigger%27s%20Cage&quot;&gt;Grafdigger&amp;#39;s Cage&lt;/a&gt; can also work if you really, &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; know your metagame well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another way to maindeck hate is to add targeted discard in the form of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;, or maybe &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisition%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;. Essentially you're accepting that your deck will be just a bit slower than the typical shell, but you're planning to make up for it by disrupting opponents more. You'll want to rejigger your mana to support more black sources to make this work, of course.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate: you'll probably want to &lt;strong&gt;add a land!&lt;/strong&gt; Even if you go the Paradise Mantle route, none of these cards are quite as fast and flexible as Mox Opal, so you really do just want the extra land to smooth out mana production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may need to adjust other cards if you're changing your ability to produce mana — not playing Mox Opal basically guarantees that you can't play the greediest of the Affinity lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above all else, remember that, since there's no drop-in &amp;quot;next best&amp;quot; replacement, you're going to have to test and tune your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-09-13T13:47:50.487" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T13:47:50.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2014-04-17T09:04:11.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found a particularly effective 3 move opening in Blokus is to play two of the most linear pieces first, head straight for the center of the board, then on your third move play the big cross piece as near to the center of the board as you can. Then radiate out in all directions. Using this tactic ive observed that by the end of most games i dont generally dominate any one region of the board, but my pieces have infiltrated all my opponents territories like a virus across the whole board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;john m&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7398" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T09:04:11.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15258" CreationDate="2014-04-17T20:13:31.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It just means they have an additional item, clue, spell, or ally card to draw during game setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7399" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T20:13:31.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15146" CreationDate="2014-04-17T20:55:17.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook pages on Deep Strike (p.36), I think the relevant rule-- for the sake of calculating 50%--is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When working out how many units can be placed in reserve, units that&#xA;  must be deployed by Deep Strike (along with any models embarked upon&#xA;  them) are ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To apply to your situation, take your entire army and subtract (put aside mentally or physically) all the units that &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be Deep Striking.  Whatever remains is the value that helps you determine 50%, so in this case corresponds to Case #2, 3 units (50 percent of 6 units) is your maximum reserve capacity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; According to the General Rulebook FAQ v1.5, this is clarified further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Q: Do units that are transported in a vehicle that MUST start in&#xA;reserve count towards the number of units that can be placed in&#xA;Reserves? For example, must I count the units in a Drop Pod or&#xA;Valkyrie towards the 50% of units I can place in Reserves?&#xA;(p124)&#xA;A: No.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T15:14:29.933" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T15:14:29.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15325" CreationDate="2014-04-17T21:47:46.753" Score="2" ViewCount="510" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the initiative from flux missiles apply to just the missiles or the whole ship? We had a question about this because if they did apply to the whole ship, then that would be 2 initiative for no power which seems too overpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T22:05:16.237" Title="Does the initiative from flux missiles apply to just the missiles or the whole ship?" Tags="|eclipse|rota|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15280" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-17T21:49:21.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rise of the Ancients is a full size expansion for Eclipse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5144" LastEditorUserId="5144" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T04:52:53.887" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T04:52:53.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15281" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-17T21:49:21.007" Score="0" Body="Rise of the Ancients is a full size expansion for Eclipse." OwnerUserId="5144" LastEditorUserId="5144" LastEditDate="2014-04-18T04:52:49.023" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T04:52:49.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15283" CreationDate="2014-04-17T22:42:12.897" Score="1" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270784&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wild Beastmaster&lt;/a&gt;, that increases all other creatures I control whenever it attacks (I assume that means the attack triggers this). However, since a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=276606&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trumpet Blast&lt;/a&gt; only affects attackers that are already declared (as per the rulings at the bottom of that page), it only works if attackers have already been declared. Would the Trumpet Blast be able to effectively be doubled through the Wild Beastmaster, or would the specification of &quot;attacking creatures&quot; mean that it cannot be used before the Wild Beastmaster's effect is applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7402" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T23:43:32.840" Title="Resolution of two buffs that affect attacking creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15282" CreationDate="2014-04-17T23:36:28.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make these work well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruling on Wild Beastmaster actually answers your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The value of X is determined when the triggered ability resolves. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can have this sequence of events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers including Wild Beastmaster (and maybe other creatures).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wild Beastmaster's ability triggers and goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While it's still on the stack, you cast Trumpet Blast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trumpet Blast resolves, granting Wild Beastmaster (and others) +2/+0.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wild Beastmaster's ability resolves, checking Wild Beastmaster's power. It's now 3 (with the +2/+0 from Trumpet Blast), so X is 3, and it grants +3/+3 to your other creatures!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the relevant comp rule is 107.3c (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.3c If a spell or activated ability has an {X}, [-X], or X in its cost and/or its text, and the value of X is defined by the text of that spell or ability, then that's the value of X while that spell or ability is on the stack. The controller of that spell or ability doesn't get to choose the value. &lt;strong&gt;Note that the value of X may change while that spell or ability is on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild Beastmaster's ability does define the value of X to be its power, so that's the value of X the entire time it's on the stack, and it can change while it's on the stack - for example, when Trumpet Blast changes its power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-04-17T23:43:32.840" LastActivityDate="2014-04-17T23:43:32.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15288" CreationDate="2014-04-18T07:50:06.437" Score="7" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Improved Logistics allow you to re-use your military power to settle two new worlds in the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:39:08.773" Title="Can you re-use millitary power to conquer two worlds on the same turn (with Improved Logistics)" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15243" CreationDate="2014-04-18T10:44:24.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, nothing changes. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Twilight%20Imperium%203/ti3faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TI3 FAQ&lt;/a&gt; puts it fairly straightforwardly on the left hand side of page 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Elimination&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who controls no planets and has no units on the board&#xA;  is eliminated from the game. He cannot play Action Cards or&#xA;  choose Strategy Cards. After a player has been eliminated, the&#xA;  other players continue the game normally, &lt;strong&gt;with no changes&#xA;  to the number of Strategy Cards taken, etc.&lt;/strong&gt; When a player is&#xA;  eliminated, all his Action Cards are discarded and all of his&#xA;  race's Trade Agreements are removed from the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a player's eliminated, everyone plays by the same rules as they have been the whole game. You don't revert to rules for the current lower number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T10:44:24.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15287" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15289" CreationDate="2014-04-18T14:48:11.160" Score="25" ViewCount="47018" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have free time in small durations, I often play Free Cell on my phone. The app that I use permits unlimited undos, and because of this I currently have a run of 603 wins, with 655 total wins and 10 total losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is demonstrated by those statistics, my 10 losses occurred during my first 52 games. Prior to using this app, I had only played Free Cell very rarely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my statistics approach a 1% loss rate, I have to wonder: &lt;strong&gt;Given an unlimited ability to undo your moves, is there any initial deal of Free Cell that is impossible to solve?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A proof one way or another would be ideal (although I admit that I doubt I'd be able to comprehend such a proof), although an authoritative source would be a good alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:17:55.510" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:17:55.510" Title="Is there any configuration of Free Cell that cannot be solved?" Tags="|statistics|free-cell|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15284" CreationDate="2014-04-18T14:55:42.967" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes&#xA;You military in race for the galaxy is never spent.  Not even in the two moments between playing two worlds with Improved Logistics.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even when using Space Mercenaries and paying cards to increase your military, the new military score will apply to both worlds played, and does not need to be divided&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to this is the Imperium Supply Convoy card in the Alien Artifacts expansion, which explicitly calls out that the second world it can occur is with excess military only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T14:39:49.733" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T14:39:49.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15287" CreationDate="2014-04-18T15:24:58.550" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not hard to prove that an unsolvable start exists. Just imagine a start where the only possible first moves would be moving cards to the extra cells. In some versions, -1 and -2 are examples of this though the only way to play them is to choose that seed.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TuMO4.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only count setups which can exist in normal play, seed 11982 in the Windows version is an example of this:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YWLGL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the original 32000 games in Freecell, 11982 is the only one for which no legitimate solution was found. Since then, several computers and players have failed to find a solution- to the point where every possible combination of moves has been tried and has failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6951" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T15:24:58.550" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15326" CreationDate="2014-04-18T15:53:59.433" Score="6" ViewCount="935" Body="&lt;p&gt;The protagonist is West (W). Declarer leads a small card of a suit in which dummy, to W's left, has A8. West hesitates before playing in the following four situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He has Kx (x&amp;lt;8). This is the mark of weak player who has &quot;given away the game,&quot; and the declarer has all the advantages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He has T6, which &quot;straddle&quot; the 8. If the tournament director (TD) asks why he hesitated,  he responds that he was trying to decide whether or not to &quot;top&quot; the 8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He has T9 or 76, &quot;equal&quot; holdings that lose to the A, but either beat, or fail to, the 8. If the TD asks him for an explanation of his conduct, he replies that he was trying to decide whether or not falsecard the higher card to induce the declarer to lose count.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;He has a singleton, and hence no decision to make, and should play &quot;naturally.&quot; As it is, he's pretending that he has more than one card when he doesn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last case would clearly be one of wrongful hesitation. Would any of the other three cases, or others that I missed, constitute such misconduct, and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T21:18:10.130" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T21:20:15.693" Title="What constitutes &quot;wrongful&quot; hesitation in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|etiquette|ethics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15291" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15293" CreationDate="2014-04-18T16:51:02.427" Score="3" ViewCount="3484" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an important interaction between two Journey into Nyx cards. Really it's a question about how &amp;quot;unless&amp;quot; interacts with targeting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/cards/journey-into-nyx/22356-athreos-god-of-passage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spoiler link&lt;/a&gt;) in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature you own dies, return it to your hand unless target opponent pays 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent has an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aegis%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Aegis of the Gods&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/cards/journey-into-nyx/22483-aegis-of-the-gods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spoiler link&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when one of my creatures dies, but there are no valid targets for the trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I get to return it to my hand from the graveyard because there is no other valid option?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or does it stay dead because the whole trigger is a no-go?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2018-03-09T21:54:03.233" Title="What happens to my Athreos triggers when my opponent has an Aegis of the Gods?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15291" CreationDate="2014-04-18T17:03:20.047" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you put Athreos's triggered ability on the stack, you choose the target opponent. If there are no valid targets (possibly because your only opponent controls Aegis of the Gods), then the ability is not put on the stack and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to how the &amp;quot;unless&amp;quot; is handled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.12.&lt;/strong&gt; Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, &amp;quot;[Do something]. If [a player] [does or doesn't], [effect].&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;[A player] may [do something]. If [that player] [does or doesn't], [effect].&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;The action [do something] is a cost, paid when the spell or ability resolves&lt;/strong&gt;. The &amp;quot;If [a player] [does or doesn't]&amp;quot; clause checks whether the player chose to pay an optional cost or started to pay a mandatory cost, regardless of what events actually occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.12a&lt;/strong&gt; Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, &amp;quot;[Do something] unless you [do something else].&amp;quot; This means the same thing as &amp;quot;You may [do something else]. If you don't, [do something].&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the ability never resolves, the &amp;quot;unless&amp;quot; effect simply doesn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T17:10:22.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15291" CreationDate="2014-04-18T17:04:13.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability is removed from the stack, and you do not get your creature back. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that's not a card the next time a player would receive priority. See rule 116, &quot;Timing and Priority.&quot; The ability becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on the stack until it's countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;strong&gt;603.3d&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3d&lt;/strong&gt; The remainder of the process for putting a triggered ability on the stack is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2c–d. If a choice is required when the triggered ability goes on the stack but no legal choices can be made for it, or if a rule or a continuous effect otherwise makes the ability illegal, the ability is simply removed from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are required to choose a target, and since you cannot the ability is removed from the stack and does not resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7371" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T17:04:13.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13162" CreationDate="2014-04-18T17:27:50.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know whether you're still running your experiment, but lately I've been trying various strategies for the phone-based version of Uno that I have and one that I've been doing is, when the color is C and I have X cards of C and Y cards of another color, D, if Y is greater than X, I go ahead and switch. It seems like it increases my opportunity of a string of cards being played versus staying in the same color and getting stuck earlier, assuming the color doesn't change on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7410" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T17:27:50.993" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2014-04-18T17:40:46.707" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another method we used in our games, which also cuts down on randomness is to give each player a &quot;hand of tiles&quot; — three was the optimal number for us — from which they can use one each time. Theoretically, that's increasing the number of options for play, but it actually tends to focus people one one &quot;good&quot; move which they pick before their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7410" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T17:40:46.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15290" CreationDate="2014-04-18T17:46:54.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that cases 1-3 are all ethical, but these are simple problems that should have been solved at the end of some earlier trick (In duplicate bridge, after all the cards to a trick have been faced, players should indicate that they are thinking about the hand by keeping their card face up. Play does not proceed until all players have turned their cards face down.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of 1-3 damage declarer, and in any case you may pause to think whenever you have an actual bridge problem. However, your hesitations may also transmit unauthorized information to your partner, and so your partner may be constrained in their future actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jeff Goldsmith has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeff-goldsmith.org/bridge/talks/UITalk.html&quot;&gt;useful and interesting discussion about unauthorized information&lt;/a&gt; on his website, which covers this area, and discusses what you should do in case partner has accidentally given you unauthorized information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-18T17:46:54.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15298" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-18T22:23:05.850" Score="0" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a non independent character (not attached and not attachable to the unit) deploy in a dedicated transport of any unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of putting Death Cie. Tycho with 9 Death Cie. inside the unit's drop pod. I'm not sure if that's allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And according to the errata, Tycho is a single unit in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5313" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T19:00:26.867" Title="Can a non independent character deploy in a dedicated transport?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15301" CreationDate="2014-04-19T03:47:52.470" Score="4" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a battlefield where I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadfall&quot;&gt;Deadfall&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunweb&quot;&gt;Sunweb&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muraganda%20Petroglyphs&quot;&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs&lt;/a&gt;. Importantly, Sunweb says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sunweb can't block creatures with power 2 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deadfall says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures with forestwalk can be blocked &lt;strong&gt;as though they didn't have forestwalk&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and Muraganda Petroglyphs says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures with no abilities get +2/+2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent attacks with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jukai%20Messenger&quot;&gt;Jukai Messenger&lt;/a&gt; (a 1/1 Forestwalk creature), can my Sunweb block it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer seems at first to be &amp;quot;no&amp;quot;, but if the Messenger didn't have forestwalk, it wouldn't have any abilities, so it would get +2/+2 due to Muraganda Petroglyphs' ability, which would make it big enough for Sunweb to block. So the question is really:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When declaring blockers (or checking whether a declaration is legal) and Deadfall is in play and you choose to block as though the creature didn't have forestwalk, are other continuous effects also applied as though the creature didn't have forestwalk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T18:28:19.717" Title="Is there any interaction between hypothetical continuous effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15299" CreationDate="2014-04-19T05:44:19.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deadfall simply makes Forestwalk ineffective, so Sunweb can't block it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forestwalk is an evasion ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.14b Landwalk is an evasion ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deadfall makes it so you Forestwalkers can no longer evade. That's all Deadfall does. As CR 609.4 points out, Deadfall only applies very specifically to &quot;determining if a creature can block&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.4. Some effects state that a player may do something &quot;as though&quot; some condition were true or a creature can do something &quot;as though&quot; some condition were true. This applies only to the stated effect. For purposes of that effect, treat the game exactly as if the stated condition were true. For all other purposes, treat the game normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs attempts to determinine if a creature has abilities. As such, The effect from Deadfall's ability is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still 1/1, and as such, Sunweb can't block it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T18:28:19.717" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T18:28:19.717" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15299" CreationDate="2014-04-19T06:50:35.450" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sunweb can't block the Jukai Messenger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a bit of confusion here about the scope of &quot;as though&quot;. It definitely only applies to the stated situation (&quot;...can be blocked...&quot;), but &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.10. Some continuous effects affect game rules rather than objects. For example, effects may modify a player’s maximum hand size, or say that a creature must attack this turn if able. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;These effects are applied after all other continuous effects have been applied.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Continuous effects that affect the costs of spells or abilities are applied according to the order specified in rule 601.2e. All other such effects are applied in timestamp order. See also the rules for timestamp order and dependency (rules 613.6 and 613.7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muraganda Petroglyph's effect is a power/toughness changing ability, so it's applied first (in layer 7). The Messenger has an ability, so it stays a 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deadfall's effect modifies game rules (changing the way blocking works), so it is applied &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt;. (Ability-removing effects do get applied earlier on, but this is not an ability-removing effect - the creature never loses forestwalk.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when deciding whether Sunweb can block, we have a 1/1 Messenger with forestwalk (which is non-functional, thanks to Deadfall). Sunweb therefore can't block it, since its power is 2 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was also some question about the scope of &quot;as though&quot; in this case. One possibility is that it applies &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; to the blocking legality decision itself, and thus it doesn't interact with the other effects. Another is that it applies to the whole game state at the time that blocking legality is decided, in which case if it were to apply before the other effects, it would change the outcome. It's difficult to tell for sure which of these is correct; the rules don't go so far as defining &quot;can be blocked as though&quot;. But since according to 613.10, it's applied last, we don't have to worry about any of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T17:14:28.770" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T17:14:28.770" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T15:43:34.380" Score="3" ViewCount="1292" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the game Robinson Crusoe, you can &quot;invent&quot; items around camp, and some items act as prerequisites for others.  E.g. You cannot build a furnace without brick, and you cannot build a fireplace without fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various events can destroy those items.  On page 16, of the Portal Edition rulebook it states that when flipping a item card over, that &quot;If the Item had an additional effect, you should cancel it if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that a player has already built the &quot;furnace&quot; invention, after building the necessary invention &quot;brick&quot;, and that an event forces the player to destroy the invented brick invention (as a choice among those available), then does that mean the invented furnace is destroyed as well?  Or does the furnace remain available, even after the brick is removed, because it was already invented?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7418" LastActivityDate="2018-04-02T05:21:17.000" Title="In Robinson Crusoe, what happens when you lose an item that acts as an invention prerequisite?" Tags="|robinson-crusoe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T15:52:19.353" Score="3" ViewCount="2293" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Robinson Crusoe, players can build a hatchet item in the Castaways scenario to add a +1 wood token to the island tile with their camp.  As long as the camp remains on that island tile, the players will receive one additional wood during the production phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can also opt to move their camp at night to an adjacent island tile.  There is no mention of what happens to the +1 wood token on the island tile of the previous camp after the players have relocated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another token, the shortcut token, that provides an additional resource during the gathering phase, does get removed when the camp is relocated, forcing players to rebuild it.  Do the players, after moving the camp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a)  move the +1 wood token from the hatchet,  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b)  lose the +1 wood&#xA;token but keep the hatchet,  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c)  lose the +1 wood token and lose the&#xA;hatchet (forcing rebuild), or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;d)  keep the +1 wood token on the&#xA;previous camp's island tile and let it as act an additional wood&#xA;resource for collection during the gathering phase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7419" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T21:25:50.167" Title="In Robinson Crusoe Castaways Scenario, will the hatchet and snare keep after camp has been moved?" Tags="|robinson-crusoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15320" CreationDate="2014-04-19T17:34:46.590" Score="4" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;In blackjack, card deck is reshuffled once there are less than 60 to 75 undrawn cards left in the deck. Are these cards included in next shuffle session and then cut again, or are these particular cards thrown away for all deals in the session?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7421" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T04:36:40.447" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T04:36:40.447" Title="Are cut cards reshuffled in blackjack?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15313" CreationDate="2014-04-19T18:43:41.743" Score="2" ViewCount="1461" Body="&lt;p&gt;When does the Tax Collector's ability trigger for characters that have abilities that involve the end of their turn? My specific examples are as follows:&#xA;The Alchemist builds a district with all of their gold. Does the gold he spent return and THEN he is taxed, or is the tax ineffective because there is no gold and only then he gets his gold back?&#xA;The Diplomat's ability says that at the end of his turn, he may use the swap ability. Can he do this (and thus use up an remaining gold he has) or must he pay the Tax Collector first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7402" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T23:07:20.743" Title="Citadels Tax Collector timing" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T18:51:56.933" Score="4" ViewCount="3735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have all sorts of old magic cards, for example m12, X ,vintage, m13, I'm just curious if I can add any of these cards to my Commander deck that I have now ,or would it be illegal??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7422" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T13:10:08.823" Title="Can I use old sets of magic cards in an EDH deck" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15308" CreationDate="2014-04-19T19:05:51.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use any cards you could in Vintage (except for the banned list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules on mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commander is played with vintage legal cards, with some exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;cards are legal as of their set's prerelease&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The following is the official banned list for commander games. These cards (and others like them) should not be played without prior agreement from the other players in the game.&#xA;...[banned list]...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It'd be pretty silly to have to build 100-card decks with limited colors without being able to use a nice large card pool! And if you look at commander deck lists people have published online, it should be pretty clear that a lot of the really popular cards are old ones. (Not that M12 and M13 are really that old...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T00:42:44.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-19T19:23:08.387" Score="6" ViewCount="31881" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just need to know any and all black Magic cards that destroy enchantments. I already searched Gatherer and didn't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's casual play with family, so any card is fair game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7423" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T21:16:19.987" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T19:28:04.180" Title="How can I play against enchantments while playing an all black deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15304" CreationDate="2014-04-19T21:06:13.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 13 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Robinson.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, under &lt;strong&gt;Moving the Camp&lt;/strong&gt;, it states that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are any +1 resource tokens (as an effect of a built Item) ... you can move [them] with the Camp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limit is that you're only allowed to have a single token per &quot;spot,&quot; so if you move your camp with +1 food and +1 wood to a place that already has a +1 food token, you lose the extra +1 food token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;strong&gt;keep the tokens, keep your inventions, and move the tokens with the camp.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T21:06:13.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15303" CreationDate="2014-04-19T21:16:53.360" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a direct answer for this in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Robinson.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, but there are a couple of very closely-related cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 16, under &lt;em&gt;Unexplored terrain type&lt;/em&gt;, the rules note that when you lose access to the last tile of a particular terrain type, you lose access to that terrain type and cannot &lt;em&gt;build&lt;/em&gt; items that still require it, but you also &lt;em&gt;do not lose&lt;/em&gt; any Items that you have already built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little further down, under &lt;em&gt;Turning Items to Invention side&lt;/em&gt;, the only changes noted are that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If that item was required for building another Item or taking a specific Threat Action, you cannot do it now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining those two sections, I reason that if you lose a prerequisite Item, &lt;strong&gt;you do not lose any Item you have already completed construction on as a result of that prerequisite Item.&lt;/strong&gt; The main idea is that those prerequisite Items &lt;em&gt;allow you to construct&lt;/em&gt; other Items; once you have constructed those other items, the prerequisite Item has no further function. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way: the Brick invention means you have a &lt;em&gt;source of Bricks;&lt;/em&gt; losing the Brick invention does not mean that any existing items suddenly cease to exist. (Also consider another case: the Shovel allows you to build a Cellar. Does losing your Shovel mean that your Cellar disappears in a puff of logic? It certainly isn't made of shovels.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-04-19T21:16:53.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15307" CreationDate="2014-04-19T21:27:59.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alchemist description found in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/support/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 18, strongly suggest that first the tax collector taxes the alchemist, then the alchemist gets money back from his construction. Then, if the alchemist has no money after building something, the tax collector gets nothing. See also a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/4177904#4177904&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar question on BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Applying the same rationale, the diplomat swapping ability will be effective in the end of the turn, after he pays the tax collector. Note that the diplomat's collection of coins from red districts may happen before or after building something (if the player wants it, of course), as stated in the rulebook, page 12. The end of turn happens after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T23:07:20.743" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T23:07:20.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15315" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-20T01:20:06.560" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/102897/farmageddon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Farmageddon&lt;/a&gt;, if the Foreclosure card is used to &quot;buy&quot; a crop from another player with a Crop Insurance card on it, is the crop acquired complete with the Crop Insurance, or does the Crop Insurance get kept buy the original owner? The Crop Insurance card mentions that it is added to the harvest pile when the crop is &quot;lost&quot;-- and thereby there seems to be an ambiguity: it is &quot;lost&quot; from the point of view of the original player, but otherwise the crop is not &quot;lost&quot; per se.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1526" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-04-20T02:15:43.477" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T06:09:46.507" Title="interaction of &quot;Foreclosure&quot; and &quot;Crop Insurance&quot; cards" Tags="|farmageddon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15310" CreationDate="2014-04-20T15:23:59.617" Score="21" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Strategies for mono-black against enchantments&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Targeted discard&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best black cards against enchantments are &lt;strong&gt;targeted discard&lt;/strong&gt; spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kV4Xk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Thoughtseize&quot; /&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GAZPg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Duress&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Targeted discard lets you deal with practically any card before it hits the battlefield. Getting the most out of them may require some finesse (&lt;a href=&quot;https://articles.starcitygames.com/premium/thoughtseize-you/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here is THE guide on that subject&lt;/a&gt;.), but these cards are powerful tools that you can use to deny your opponent access to their most critical cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Targeted discard shines in a traditional duel environment (one-on-one, best-of-three play), where you can focus on taking apart a single deck's gameplan. It's much harder — though not impossible — to wield effectively in casual multiplayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The &amp;quot;just deal with it&amp;quot; strategy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common solution is to just play through. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPacifism%5d&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; on your guy? Just write him off as dead (until you need a sacrificial creature or something). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMoat%5d&quot;&gt;Moat&lt;/a&gt; preventing you from attacking? Stall until you can dig out your direct damage or your big flying Demon. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNevermore%5d&quot;&gt;Nevermore&lt;/a&gt; preventing you from playing your commander? Rely on your other cards to kill your opponent. Did your opponent put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFurnace%20of%20Rath%5d&quot;&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/a&gt; on the field? Start racing for damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's tough and you're often at a disadvantage, but often if you &lt;strong&gt;focus on what you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do instead of what you can't&lt;/strong&gt;, you can find some tactical way to &amp;quot;play around&amp;quot; the problematic enchantment. Often the best insurance against &amp;quot;prison&amp;quot; strategies, besides raw speed, is to build in a variety of win conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Specific hosers for specific cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can do if a specific card is causing you problems is find cards that &lt;strong&gt;don't remove it, but negate its effect&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEverlasting%20Torment%5d&quot;&gt;Everlasting Torment&lt;/a&gt; can make &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCircle%5d%2b%5bof%5d%2b%5bProtection%5d%2b%5bBlack%5d&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Black&lt;/a&gt; sit there uselessly in play, while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpirit%20of%20the%20Labyrinth%5d&quot;&gt;Spirit of the Labyrinth&lt;/a&gt; effectively blanks a number of &amp;quot;draw a lot of cards&amp;quot; decks. Generally these work best as sideboard cards, unless they're cards that fit into your deck's general gameplan anyway (e.g. you really want to use Everlasting Torment's -1/-1 counters as part of your own strategy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Cards that actually remove enchantments&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A true &amp;quot;all-black&amp;quot; deck has very few options&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enchantment removal isn't in black's part of the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Color_Pie&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;color pie&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Meaning it's not something black is supposed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which doesn't mean it's impossible to find cards that do, because cards to sometimes break the color pie — especially older cards. Let's try some Gatherer searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bdestroy%5D%20%5Benchantment%5D&amp;amp;color=%20@%28%20%5BB%5D%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black only + &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;enchantment&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;: Hmm... all that really gives you is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuagmire%20Druid%5d&quot;&gt;Quagmire Druid&lt;/a&gt;, which requires green mana. Might as well play a better green card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, okay, but there are other ways to remove enchantments. &amp;quot;Exile,&amp;quot; for instance...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bexile%5D%20%5Benchantment%5D&amp;amp;color=%20@%28%20%5BB%5D%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black only + &amp;quot;exile&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;enchantment&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;: Nope. (You get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bParallax%20Nexus%5d&quot;&gt;Parallax Nexus&lt;/a&gt;, just because of its reminder text.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also try &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot; instead of &amp;quot;enchantment.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bdestroy%5D%20%5Bpermanent%5D&amp;amp;color=%20@%28%20%5BB%5D%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black only + &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;: Only the Unglued card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bZzzyxas%27s%5d%2b%5bAbyss%5d&quot;&gt;Zzzyxas&amp;#39;s Abyss&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bexile%5D%20%5Bpermanent%5D&amp;amp;color=%20@%28%20%5BB%5D%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black only + &amp;quot;exile&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;: Well, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDescent%20into%20Madness%5d&quot;&gt;Descent into Madness&lt;/a&gt; can exile enchantments. Eventually. But it's a build-around-me card and won't remove anything quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;False positives from reminder text give us a few cards with phrases like &amp;quot;target player sacrifices a permanent.&amp;quot; So let's chase that down...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20@%28%20%5BB%5D%29&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bplayer%5D%20%5Bsacrifice%5D%20%5Bpermanent%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black only + &amp;quot;player&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;sacrifice&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20@%28%20%5BB%5D%29&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bopponent%5D%20%5Bsacrifice%5D%20%5Bpermanent%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;black only + &amp;quot;opponent&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;sacrifice&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;: Several options emerge:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCurse%20of%20the%20Cabal%5d&quot;&gt;Curse of the Cabal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUndercity%20Plague%5d&quot;&gt;Undercity Plague&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGreater%20Harvester%5d&quot;&gt;Greater Harvester&lt;/a&gt; all have the potential to grind through an opponent's permanents, but the ability to sacrifice lands to protect your other stuff makes them rather ineffective solutions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDystopia%5d&quot;&gt;Dystopia&lt;/a&gt; is a classic card that actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_World_Championship#1997_World_championship&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;saw some serious play once, a long time ago&lt;/a&gt;. It's a reasonable answer to controlling white decks hiding behind cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGhostly%20Prison%5d&quot;&gt;Ghostly Prison&lt;/a&gt; and Circle of Protection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLiliana%20of%20the%20Veil%5d&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt;'s -6 ability can take care of any permanent, including enchantments. Your opponent gets a choice, but that's where skillful play comes in — if your opponent is willing to sacrifice everything to keep some enchantment in play, then, well, maybe you should just let them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we've basically struck out. You have a few cards that you might be able to use to remove enchantments — almost as an afterthought, — but nothing nearly as direct as a simple &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblivion%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNaturalize%5d&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;. I wouldn't include any of these cards in a deck just to deal with enchantments (I'd play Liliana for, well, general awesomeness, though).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Colorless cards for your mono-black deck&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, whenever you need a mono-color deck to do something that its color can't really do, try this: &lt;strong&gt;use artifacts and other colorless cards to do stuff your color can't&lt;/strong&gt; (try searches like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20%5BC%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bdestroy%5D%20%5Bpermanent%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;colorless + &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; + &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targeted destruction: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpine%20of%20Ish%20Sah%5d&quot;&gt;Spine of Ish Sah&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%2c%20the%20Infinite%20Gyre%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChaos%20Orb%5d&quot;&gt;Chaos Orb&lt;/a&gt; (weird and fun), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEye%20of%20Doom%5d&quot;&gt;Eye of Doom&lt;/a&gt; (symmetrical effect for multiplayer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeatable destruction: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSteel%20Hellkite%5d&quot;&gt;Steel Hellkite&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArgentum%20Armor%5d&quot;&gt;Argentum Armor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLux%20Cannon%5d&quot;&gt;Lux Cannon&lt;/a&gt; (slow), various Eldrazi cards with &lt;em&gt;annihilator&lt;/em&gt; (might take a while to hit the right card). (Also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpine%20of%20Ish%20Sah%5d&quot;&gt;Spine of Ish Sah&lt;/a&gt; if you have a sac outlet.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wipes: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNevinyrral%27s%5d%2b%5bDisk%5d&quot;&gt;Nevinyrral&amp;#39;s Disk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblivion%20Stone%5d&quot;&gt;Oblivion Stone&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAll%20Is%20Dust%5d&quot;&gt;All Is Dust&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precise wipes: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRatchet%20Bomb%5d&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt; (can be slow).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of these are pretty mana-intensive, making them better fits for multiplayer decks than dueling decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Splashing colors&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you want more cost-effective removal, add more colors instead&lt;/strong&gt;. Most of the gold standards for multi-faceted removal are multi-color cards featuring black as one of their colors: cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAbrupt%20Decay%5d&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVindicate%5d&quot;&gt;Vindicate&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPernicious%20Deed%5d&quot;&gt;Pernicious Deed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-05-20T19:28:04.180" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-04-20T23:27:49.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cheaper suggestion is this: buy a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2011/10/what-opaque-sleeves-are/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;card sleeves with one opaque face&lt;/a&gt;, print your cards and sleeve both your set and the original set. No one will know what they might draw. There are many options being sold in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/b?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;node=2358925011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon.com&lt;/a&gt; and in many other game stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1742/what-factors-should-i-consider-when-choosing-card-sleeves&quot;&gt;know more about the quality of those sleeves&lt;/a&gt; prior to buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-04-20T23:27:49.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15306" CreationDate="2014-04-21T06:16:42.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a shoe is shuffled (or reshuffled), all cards are shuffled, then the cut card is placed near the back of the shoe.  This card is only an indicator that the shoe needs to be reshuffled at the end of the current hand.  Thus, cards behind the cut card can and will be played into the hand.  The purpose of the cut card's placement is two-fold: first, it's to ensure that enough cards exist so the hand can be played out even under the worst conditions (e.g. 6 players splitting and drawing 5 could, theoretically require 60 cards).  Second, it's to discourage card counting as any form of keeping track of the cards seen increases one's odds as the shoe runs down.  Not using the last part of the shoe, thus, eliminates the worst of the counting problem, though it doesn't eliminate it entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T06:16:42.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-21T17:13:36.353" Score="5" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/908/tally-ho&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tally Ho!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; one player plays the humans (hunters, lumberjacks) while the other plays the animals (foxes, bears). The Dutch rulebook states that since the game is imbalanced, a game is comprised of two hunts, with the players switching sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played it several times now, but while it's clear that the game is asymmetrical, it isn't clear to me which way the imbalance lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone enlighten me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T08:10:07.887" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T08:10:07.887" Title="How exactly is Tally Ho! imbalanced?" Tags="|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13553" CreationDate="2014-04-21T20:16:57.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printerstudio.com/personalized/custom-playing-cards-gifts.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Printer's Studio&lt;/a&gt; will do entirely custom-printed decks. I haven't used them personally, but have heard good things from others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7432" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T20:16:57.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13393" CreationDate="2014-04-21T21:54:31.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There certainly is ambiguity in the Rulebook about which model determines what minimum die to hit, though I believe it makes more sense from the 'saving' model's point of view to do the roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From BRB p. 16:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a wound (or unsaved Wound) is allocated to one of your&#xA;  characters, and there is another model from the same unit within 6&quot;,&#xA;  he's allowed a Look Out, Sir attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, not so good, &quot;he's allowed&quot; is ambiguously attributable to 'one of your characters' or 'another model from the same unit'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following text, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This represents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;the character ducking back further into the unit,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;holding a comrade in the line of fire, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;being pushed aside by a selfless ally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I agree that #1 and #2 both seem to indicate action on behalf of the &lt;em&gt;model-taking-the-wound&lt;/em&gt;. #3, on the other hand, seems to indicate action on behalf of the &lt;em&gt;saving-model&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real dealbreaker for me, however, is the name of the mechanic itself: &lt;strong&gt;Look out, Sir!&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you consider the mechanic name, such a line only seems to make sense being spoken by the &lt;em&gt;saving-model&lt;/em&gt;: put another way, it is the awareness/adeptness of the saving-model which instructs the character to hide/hold a comrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may very well be just splitting hairs on fluff, but I think the Independent Character rule (p. 39) supports this interpretation: an independent character is a more impressive unit and is appropriately more successful at saving the target (represented by 2+ rather than 4+).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by your friend's argument, he's basically positing that the more important the initial wound target is, &lt;em&gt;the more successful an infantry is at saving him&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And your rules (for which I agree with all 7 bullet points), you're positing that the more talented/strong the saving-model is, &lt;em&gt;the better the saving model is at successfully saving/alerting the target&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T00:06:32.290" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T00:06:32.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15279" CreationDate="2014-04-21T22:05:16.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that they are intended to apply to the entire ship. I've come to this conclusion for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the text of the ROTA rulebook reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two modified Ion Missiles capable  of warping the flux grid, giving two Initiative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they were intended to apply only to the missiles, it seems likely that it would be indicated in this text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the energy cost is only one of two costs related to a technology: you should also consider the research cost. The research cost of a Plasma Missile is 14/7, whereas the Flux Missile is 11/8. Comparing this to the Ion Cannon (no research cost) and the Plasma Cannon (6/4) shows us that the price difference on the missiles is half that of the cannons. That, it seems, is where you're paying for the increased initiative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1821" LastActivityDate="2014-04-21T22:05:16.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15290" CreationDate="2014-04-22T02:29:15.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hesitating in case 3 is clearly unethical, as West has no problem in playing from either T9 or 67 in this scenario. One may hesitate in order to determine &lt;em&gt;which card to play from a technical perspective&lt;/em&gt;, but not whether or not to signal to partner without an accompanying technical problem. Otherwise one would always hesitate when showing an even number with 2, and never hesitate when showing an even number with 4, thus creating a(n illegal) signal that clearly distinguished between holdings of 2 and 4 cards &lt;strong&gt;based on the manner in which the cards were played&lt;/strong&gt; rather than the particular cards played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in the absence of the above, hesitating would clearly be seen as an attempt to mislead declarer on the location of a single card between the A and 8. It is quite likely that Declarer is not harmed in this instance, but that does not preclude the award of an adjusted score against the offending side, EW here. The appropriate penalty for a first offense would be the actual score for NS, and lower of actual and Average-minus for EW.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update - Added comments from below&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) &quot;False carding to make the declarer lose count&quot; is not illegal in this instance, but &quot;reinforcing&quot; it by hesitating is, right? –  Tom Au&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;Yes; but it is important to realize that all signals not made in tempo comprise Unauthorized Information (UI) for partner; namely that there was a question about whether or not to make the signal, and thus that the signal is in some fashion weak. Likewise false carding must be done in tempo in order to not be seen as an attempt to improperly deceive declarer; but this is really just a special case of the preceding as partner is also given UI.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) In example 2 (and even example 1), you have two cards that &quot;straddle&quot; the 8, so you have a technical problem, right? Then hesitating under those circumstances would be amateurish, but not wrongful, right? -- Tom Au&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;Yes, that is correct; however the decision on carding if Declarer plays low towards Dummy should have been made as part of West's review of dummy right after it came down. Hesitating when the play occurs is still UI for partner, and will hinder effective defense in consequence. Practice taking a full 3/4 second or so on every play as defender, to give yourself a couple tenths reaction/thinking time when you need it.&lt;/code&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, the experts do what you suggested, and it's the amateurs that wait until it's too late = Tom Au&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;code&gt;So true.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T21:20:15.693" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T21:20:15.693" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12563" CreationDate="2014-04-22T03:53:58.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try avoiding combinations that seem alike. We got the expansion pack not too long ago; avoid factions that play very similarly simply because you tend to run out of options really quick, like the Bears and Pirates combo.  Also, avoid playing Ghosts with any faction that's draw heavy like Steampunks/Plants and also factions that rely on returning to the hand like Ninja/Aliens.  Like the others said, Wizards get a pass here.  If someone is playing Ninjas, avoid factions that rely HEAVILY on actions like Steampunks/Wizards (on a side note; the Steampunk Wizards combo are a force to be reckoned with, so playing them together may be an exception to the statement about Ninjas).  In the original pack, it's hard to find a faction that works well with Dinosaurs, but the expansion pack that comes with Steampunks/Bears/Plants/Ghosts give them a little more 'Oomph' but you still might want to avoid playing them with Ghosts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 1-v-1 game, 'You're Pretty Much Borscht' when playing against Zombie Robots unless you're playing the sabotage game with Ninja Aliens, which altogether means your choices are also heavily influenced by your opponent's choices. In reality, the game changes with the choices your opponent makes so choose wisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have yet to play a group game, so I can't make any suggestions there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that there's actually another expansion out besides the 'Obligatory Cthulhu Expansion' called 'Science Fiction Double Feature' that comes with Secret Agents/Time Travelers/Cyber Apes/Shapeshifters.  Haven't gotten it yet, but I will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7433" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T09:56:22.587" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T09:56:22.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2014-04-22T04:21:04.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could just not use all of the expansions at once. Instead, pick one or two expansions, maybe at random, every game. Now there is variability, and each game will be different, but you don't have a ton of extra tiles and rules in play in any given game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how collectible card games like Magic the Gathering, or deck building games like Dominion, manage to stay enjoyable, despite having tons of expansion and variability. You don't increase the size of the game, or use all expansions at once, but rather each game you play can be played with a different set of elements but still within approximately the same level of time and complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="112" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T04:21:04.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15329" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T09:13:54.187" Score="14" ViewCount="104585" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was playing UNO earlier, I found two strange cards: they were purple and blank, with no number or special sign on them. What is this card for? Is it like a Wild Card or +4 Wild Card? It wasn't mentioned in the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7435" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T09:45:22.383" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:24:49.943" Title="What is this blank purple UNO card?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15329" CreationDate="2014-04-22T13:23:19.267" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;These cards are mentioned in Uno instructions — you can use one if you lose or damage one of the other cards, or you can use it to include custom house rules card into the deck. See reference in manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What Are These Extra Cards For?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blank Card - This is a special card that you may use in one of two ways. If a card from your UNO deck is lost or damaged you may use the Blank Card as a replacement. Example: If you find that your deck is missing one of the yellow 7's you would simply replace it by taking the yellow Blank Card, marking a &amp;quot;7&amp;quot; on it and adding it back into the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you family has a special UNO rule you prefer to play with you may write that rule on the Blank Cards and add them straight to the deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says also that you should have 4 of these; maybe you have lost the other two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 Blank Cards in each color [new decks]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:36:46.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15298" CreationDate="2014-04-22T13:57:49.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An independant character can attach itself to a unit, once dont so they function as a single unit for all purposes. This means that as long as the unit can fit into a transport (not to many modles after you add the IC) then the &quot;unit&quot; can start in the transport.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unfamilar with the Tycho characters rules but if he can join a unit then there is no reason him and the unit cannot be put ina drop pod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the sounds of you post i would say tycho cannot be placed in the unit as he is not an IC therfore cannot go in the drop pod. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T13:57:49.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15332" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15334" CreationDate="2014-04-22T14:59:01.557" Score="10" ViewCount="31868" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm completely new to Magic the Gathering. I've read the basic rulebook pretty thoroughly and have a pretty good grasp of the basic rules, but it's unclear to me as to when you can tap lands to generate mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off,  mana is supposed to dry up after each phase in a turn. Can I untap my land cards and then tap them again in the next phase if I need more mana to power a spell? Or does a land card remain tapped until my next turn like everything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the rules mention that I can play instants and activate abilities during my opponent's turn. Does that then mean that I can tap my land cards during my opponent's turn to power those spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, does my opponent's untap step for their turn only apply to their cards? Or can I untap mine as well? Not closely related to land cards, but when I can tap and untap my land cards would make a huge difference as to how I play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope these questions aren't painfully obvious, but I've just started playing the game. Thanks for your time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7437" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T19:50:36.257" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T01:29:15.783" Title="When can lands be tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15332" CreationDate="2014-04-22T15:14:09.487" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can tap lands for mana at almost any time. Pretty much any time you could do anything else, anyway. Among other things, you can tap land for mana any time you want to play a spell or ability and you need mana to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only untap a land when you untap your other cards during YOUR untap step (or if a spell or ability instructs you to untap a card). So no, you cannot untap your lands after each phase when the mana they produced goes away, or during your opponent's untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So without getting into the specific details of the comprehensive rules, which would just cause confusion for beginners, what you really need to know is that you can tap a land any time you need mana, and your lands will normally only untap at the beginning of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rules from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_Magic_Basic_Rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;Casting a Spell&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now check what the spell’s cost is. Tap your lands to &#xA;  produce the mana necessary to pay that cost, and pay it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that mana will empty from your mana pool at the end of every &lt;em&gt;step&lt;/em&gt;, not just at the end of each &lt;em&gt;phase&lt;/em&gt;. Each phase is divided into multiple steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T15:27:48.437" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T15:27:48.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15332" CreationDate="2014-04-22T15:17:36.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Lands may be tapped at any time for mana, though it's usually pointless to do that when you aren't casting a spell or activating an ability.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What actually happens is there is something called your &quot;mana pool&quot;. This is what is actually emptied at certain phases. The appropriate ruling is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.6. The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the words &quot;basic land type,&quot; it’s referring to one of these subtypes. A land with a basic land type has the intrinsic ability &quot;{T}: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,&quot; even if the text box doesn’t actually contain that text or the object has no text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is {W}; for Islands, {U}; for Swamps, {B}; for Mountains, {R}; and for Forests, {G}. See rule 107.4a. Also see rule 605, &quot;Mana Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic lands are permanents that can add to your mana pool. Since this is an activated ability, it can be used during your opponent's turn. Other than that, though, they ordinarily untap during your turn at the same time as everything else. Technically, the order of casting a spell is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap cards to add mana to your mana pool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the spell is played from your hand, it subtracts the appropriate amount from your mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until Magic 2010, having excess mana at the end of your turn would cause &quot;mana burn&quot;, which does damage to you equal to however much is leftover. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic 2010 rules changes&lt;/a&gt; did away with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7402" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T21:53:11.640" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T21:53:11.640" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15335" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-22T18:05:56.010" Score="1" ViewCount="1360" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;My wife and I play a version of best of minors that was questioned by a friend as &quot;I never heard of such a thing.&quot; We open best of minors seeking a four card major, but by opening with one club we offer three clubs, maybe four, and expect a two club response by partner if she has five clubs, thus giving us eight or nine clubs altogether. Or, when we open one diamond we promise four diamonds, expecting a two diamond response from partner if she has four or five diamonds thus giving us eight or nine diamonds altogether.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this make sense, or are we out of touch? What should we tell our friend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7440" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2014-04-23T00:16:45.260" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T18:09:51.313" Title="Opening &quot;best of minors&quot;" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15174" CreationDate="2014-04-22T19:13:37.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  In your example, technically speaking, you are really performing another round of rolling - rolling &lt;em&gt;zero&lt;/em&gt; dice - and then resolving the final task.  The die you have secured in your spell is a usable part of your dice pool, thus allowing you to meet the requirements of the adventure task even though you didn't physically roll any dice.  Remember that the spell is discarded after you use the reserved die in that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;However, if you still have more unfocused/unreserved dice to roll, you do have to roll them.&lt;/strong&gt;  In your example, you had exactly no dice left to roll after completing the first task and when moving on to the second.  If you did have dice left, however, you'd have to roll them, which gives the risk of rolling a &lt;em&gt;Terror&lt;/em&gt; result, which could have consequences.  Thus it's important to note that, strictly speaking, you cannot complete multiple tasks at once (and in your example, you are not really doing so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T22:04:23.537" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T22:04:23.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15335" CreationDate="2014-04-22T20:14:42.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opening style seems fine, but responder should prefer to bid 1 heart or 1 spade holding four cards in the major to go along with support in your minor. That is, after you have opened 1C, partner should respond 1H holding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x&#xA;xxxx&#xA;xxx&#xA;AKxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons for this; perhaps the most important is that making ten tricks in a major-suit contract is almost always easier than make 11 tricks in a minor-suit contract when you have a 4-4 fit in the major and a 5-4 fit in the minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T20:14:42.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15339" CreationDate="2014-04-22T21:05:56.467" Score="12" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;last game we were playing, we were forced to fight with The Great Old One - Ithaqua. We came to a point, where a player lost all his stamina(and later, sanity). However, the question arised - are you allowed to take Injury card, instead of biting the dust?&#xA;Rules aren't too clear for this one(imho). On the one hand, the rules say, that if your stamina/sanity reaches 0, you can take them - but at the same time it doesn't explicitly mention the case when you're fighting with The Great Old One. Plus, playing with Injury/Madness is easier than without, and making the game easier doesn't look like Arkham Horror :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did I miss something? Is there some clarification? What should I do in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. We're playing with Dunwitch Horror, The Black Pharaoh, and The King in Yellow expansions, if that makes a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7442" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T21:51:28.300" Title="Arkham Horror - Are you allowed to take injury/madness while fighting with The Great Old One" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15338" CreationDate="2014-04-22T21:45:39.280" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't do that. Short version: the Ancient One devours you as soon as you're reduced to 0, so by the time the Injury/Madness tries to change how you recover after your're reduced to 0, you're already gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combat with the Ancient One, you're devoured if you're reduced to zero Stamina/Sanity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any investigator reduced to 0 Sanity or Stamina by the Ancient One’s attack is devoured. If an investigator is devoured during the final battle with the Ancient One, that player is eliminated from the game (i.e., the player does not draw a new character).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're devoured, not just knocked unconscious or driven insane. You don't get to choose which way you want to get knocked unconscious (item loss vs Injury), because the Ancient One ate you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Injuries (Madnesses are similar):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an investigator is reduced to 0 stamina, he may choose to gain an Injury card. If he does this, he does not lose any items or Clue tokens for being knocked unconscious, and his Stamina is restored to its maximum value instead of to 1. However, the investigator must still move to either St. Mary's Hospital or Lost in Time and Space, as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You still get your Sanity/Stamina reduced to 0&lt;/em&gt; - you just recover afterwards in a different way. So the Ancient One text still applies, and you're still devoured. You don't have the painful recovery (recover to 1, lose items, etc) afterwards that you can replace with the Injury/Madness. You can't take an Injury any more than you can say, &quot;okay, he got me - I'll drop my useless item and keep on going!&quot; Getting devoured is permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, this is just common sense. If adding Injury/Madness to the game somehow let you stay in the fight, then the Dunwich Horror expansion would make the final battle way, way easier. The expansion isn't meant to make radical changes like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-04-22T21:51:28.300" LastActivityDate="2014-04-22T21:51:28.300" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15341" CreationDate="2014-04-23T03:21:06.560" Score="5" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you exile a creature such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eidolon%20of%20Countless%20Battles&quot;&gt;Eidolon of Countless Battles&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nightveil%20Specter&quot;&gt;Nightveil Specter&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashiok%2C%20Nightmare%20Weaver&quot;&gt;Ashiok, Nightmare Weaver&lt;/a&gt;. Can you cast it with bestow as an enchantment aura or can you only cast it as a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7179" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:41:18.380" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:41:18.380" Title="Can you cast creatures exiled by Ashiok/Nightveil Specter with bestow?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15340" CreationDate="2014-04-23T04:07:28.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a card is exiled with Nightveil Specter, you may play it in any way it could normally be played under all the normal restrictions (such as timing, paying costs, etc). &#xA;In the case of exiling Eidolon of Countless Battles (or any other bestow creature), this means you can pay the bestow cost to cast the spell as an enchantment aura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a creature card is exiled with Ashiok, you can later use his -X ability to &lt;strong&gt;place it on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;. Notice the difference here: &lt;strong&gt;You do not cast it&lt;/strong&gt;. Since it is not cast, you do not have the option of paying the alternate bestow casting cost and casting it as a enchantment aura. Thus, you cannot bestow a creature card exiled with Ashiok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T04:07:28.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13984" CreationDate="2014-04-23T09:19:07.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another, not obvious reason when you want to sleeve your cards, is when you suspect your cards could be easily damaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can happen, when you are going to play some multiplayer games like Dixit Odyssey on your lake holiday with a bit drunk friends, when everyone probably would have their hands dirty, not to mention a few times sleeves saved my cards when someone fall over candles, or some glasses with juice or coke. Then, you are really happy that you bought sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T09:19:07.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14558" CreationDate="2014-04-23T09:35:11.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Reaver Cutter is resolved upon the players turn start. The Alliance Cruiser is resolved immediately. This is to simulate the Reavers &quot;not being hungry&quot; and the Alliance Cruiser &quot;getting awfully crowded in my sky...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7446" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T09:35:11.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15501" CreationDate="2014-04-23T11:53:05.483" Score="4" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any online big communities similar to FICS or Chess.com for Othello (Reversi) where you can play against many players and so on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7028" LastActivityDate="2022-06-20T09:06:40.420" Title="Othello (Reversi) Online community" Tags="|online|othello|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15346" CreationDate="2014-04-23T14:06:04.073" Score="6" ViewCount="10821" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the gathering you have the concept of priority. This gives every players a chance to respond to every one's spells. But I knew you could &lt;strong&gt;keep&lt;/strong&gt; priority between spells. Playing a spell and without passing priority (and without this spell to resolve), play another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until now, I was okay with that and understood it but I thought it was only for instant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-xEoMEzkN4&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt;, at 4m15, Reid Duke explain a play with Kor Spiritdancer and an Aura spell. He said : &quot;You go Kor Spiritdancer and without passing priority you cast an Aura...&quot;. This making him draw a card even if his opponent has a response to Kor Spiritdancer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if it is possible to keep priority between non-instant spells, when can you keep priority? What is the rules for that? In my exemple, why did the Kor Spiritdancer resolved? what if his opponent wanted to counterspell it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T14:36:03.743" Title="When can you keep priority?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15345" CreationDate="2014-04-23T14:36:03.743" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you have slightly misunderstood the explanation in the video, and you misunderstand how priority works and the difference between instants and noninstant spells (from the Comprehensive Rules: &quot;A player may cast an instant spell any time he or she has priority. A player may cast a noninstant spell during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty&quot;; what happens next is the same for both types).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the video, Reid is explaining how to draw a card before losing your Kor Spiritdancer to any creature destruction effects (such as Doom Blade, which he mentioned by name). Your opponent may not cast any creature destruction effects until 1) the creature exists (i.e. the spell has resolved) and 2) the opponent has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mtgsalvation wiki has &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;the text of the priority rules&lt;/a&gt;; here 116.3 and 116.4 are particularly important:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card&#xA;  during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities&#xA;  that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on&#xA;  the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players&#xA;  usually don't get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives&#xA;  priority afterward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player's mana pool, he or&#xA;  she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order&#xA;  receives priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability&#xA;  on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or&#xA;  step ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence Reid is describing works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Kor Spiritdancer and pay its costs; it is now on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You still have priority (116.3c); pass it to your opponent (116.3d).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent may do something, e.g. counterspell. Let's say that they don't do anything. They pass priority (116.3d again).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kor Spiritdancer resolves (116.4). You now have priority again (116.3b).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast an Aura; it goes on the stack and Kor Spiritdancer's triggered ability (whenever you play an Aura spell card, you may draw a card, goes on the stack).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may now pass priority, and now your opponent may cast some instant or activate some ability that removes the creature from play, but you still got one card draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you have some way to play auras at instant speed (e.g. the aura has flash, you have a card like Vedalken Orrery in play), you can cast multiple auras in succession without passing priority, although of course none of them will resolve before your opponent has a chance to play creature removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T14:36:03.743" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-23T15:45:57.047" Score="9" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a Perplexing Chimera.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text: Whenever an opponent casts a spell, you may exchange control of Perplexing Chimera and that spell.  If you do, you may choose new targets for the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I bestow Hypnotic Siren on my own Chimera (I still control it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now when I use the Chimera to steal my opponent's spells, I think the siren will keep it under my control, because I'll still control Siren as an aura.  I can gain control of everything my opponent casts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this work??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7447" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T16:01:19.103" Title="Perplexing Chimera + Hypnotic Siren. Do I control all of my opponent's spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15347" CreationDate="2014-04-23T16:01:19.103" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this does not work. Exchanging control using Chimera's ability sets up a continuous effect; the same as the one created by Hypnotic Siren (or Mind Control, etc). When there are multiple effects that are applied in the same layer, they are all applied in timestamp order. This means that because the Chimera's ability resolved after the Siren's ability, your opponent will get the Chimera back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.6. Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;613.6a A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;613.6b A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability receives a timestamp at the time it's created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discussion on this interaction with Mind Control &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-questions/perplexing-chimera-and-mind-control-interaction/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-04-23T16:01:19.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-23T17:22:11.890" Score="5" ViewCount="2009" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canfield_%28solitaire%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia description of Canfield&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;cards on the tableau are also moved one unit, provided that the entire column has to be moved&quot;. In other words, this suggests that if you move a sequence of cards from one column to another, that sequence must constitute the entire column being moved, rather than an arbitrary number of cards from the bottom of a column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't find any other reference to this restriction. In other books of card games I have referenced, they seem to imply simply that arbitrary valid sequences can be moved from one column to another. Can anybody provide a source for the more restrictive version of the rule mentioned in the Wikipedia article?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My question is hence similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/15051/klondike-solitaire-moving-partial-sequences-between-columns&quot;&gt;this question referring to movement in Klondike&lt;/a&gt;, but applied to Canfield.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1526" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T02:12:03.200" Title="Canfield solitaire: moving partial sequences" Tags="|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15351" CreationDate="2014-04-23T22:48:43.607" Score="10" ViewCount="8019" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine is blind and she said she'd love to play something. And she meant something non-trivial. Do you know any games where you actually don't need to &lt;em&gt;see&lt;/em&gt;? I thought about diplomacy kind of game where all you need to do is talk (political/historical background seems interesting), but could you please give me some solid examples of such games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me narrow it down a little bit: AFAIK my friend does not know Braille yet. She's an adult, so simple games just won't cut it. It would also be her first game after becoming blind so it can't be too complex. I see the simple/complex contradiction - by &quot;not simple&quot; I mean &lt;em&gt;with interesting storyline or background&lt;/em&gt; and by &quot;not complex&quot; I mean &lt;em&gt;mechanically easy without many elements to remember&lt;/em&gt; (I suppose it's easier to remember an ongoing story than a set of cards and/or various numerical values, that's why I'm pushing it a little bit towards spoken games). And maybe one more, minor thing: it's definitely not a must, but I'd appreciate if it was available in Poland or was easily adaptable to polish language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5472" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T22:01:32.967" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T22:01:32.967" Title="Game for a blind person" Tags="|recommendations|accessibility|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-10-14T08:22:34.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2014-04-24T06:20:37.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see three kind of games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Just for fun games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these games, there is no point in winning, just having fun is enough. What comes in mind is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18723/aye-dark-overlord&quot;&gt;Aye, Dark Overlord!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, where the goal is to explain to your Overlord, as a minion, why you totally screw up the very important mission he just gave you. It's basically a speaking-only game and there is absolutely no harm in seeing her cards and telling her what she's got in hands. Plus, the players only have 3 cards in hand, which means she basically have 3 names to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;strike&gt;2. Non-hidden games&lt;/strike&gt; Need a better name&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these games, everything is public, no one has anything to hide. It's most of the time only strategy. In these, it's easy to ask what color is a piece without revealing your strategy. She can play most of them &lt;strong&gt;as long as you are willing to sacrifice your game&lt;/strong&gt; by marking the pieces (each color with a different material). I'd say &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/681/quarto&quot;&gt;Quarto!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; fits the description, simply mark the dark pieces with Play Doh, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Co-op games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In those, a strategy can be discussed and the other players can tell her &quot;your idea is good, but there is a detail you obviously can see&quot;. I recommand &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2511/sherlock-holmes-consulting-detective&quot;&gt;Sherlock Holmes Consulting Detective&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, in which the players read a kind of gamebook, each chapter being a bit of investigation. She can simply let someone else read when she's supposed to and still decide what is to do with the clues you've just collected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a colorblind person myself, I do something with my games: each time there are colors that are hard to see for me, I ask someone to mark all the cards, pieces or tiles of one color with a marker. It doesn't bother the other players but helps me differenciate the colors. It can be possible to do the same with little holes (in braille?) or any other kind of marking. But this marking might be permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="1369" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T07:39:09.390" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T07:39:09.390" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2014-04-24T08:49:46.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as games that can be played just through talk, it's good to consider games that would be &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt; to play blind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Primarily tactile games with open information&lt;/strong&gt; would hopefully fit the bill, although they might test memory a little more than usual. More traditional games like Chess would be workable, but very difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a great option would be a game like &lt;strong&gt;Mancala&lt;/strong&gt;. There wouldn't be too much to remember, and the tactile nature of play would be quite satisfying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You could also modify another game to use tactile elements&lt;/strong&gt;. For instance, imagine playing Coloretto, but when a card was drawn, you replaced it with a distinctly shaped object depending on the colour (obviously would need a sighted opponent/adjudicator). This would add a tactile element to having the objects in front of you, and taking them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility: If you wanted to play a card game with closed information, &lt;strong&gt;you could consider opaque sleeves and braille on the cards&lt;/strong&gt;. A blind player could subtly unsleeve their card and feel it to &quot;read&quot; it. This might open up closed-information card games if you don't mind modifying your components.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T08:49:46.473" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15354" CreationDate="2014-04-24T13:05:18.663" Score="4" ViewCount="5776" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people refer to Magic: The Gathering Online as &quot;MOTO&quot; or &quot;MODO&quot;. None of them can tell me what it stands for, so at first, I thought they just got the acronym wrong. It turns out to be pretty popular, that's all I've been able to find out. The term is not in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtgcom/academy/9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Jargon article&lt;/a&gt;, and not one person in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-general/319263-i-hate-the-magic-snobs-elitist-at-the-local-shop&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; thread spelled it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does MOTO stand for? Is it different from MODO?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T23:15:13.913" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T23:15:13.913" Title="MOTO Acronym for MTG Online" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15353" CreationDate="2014-04-24T13:28:05.370" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic%3a_The_Gathering_Online&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; claims that this is &lt;strong&gt;an acronym from earlier in its development which was later discontinued&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WotC was sufficiently convinced and contracted LLS to develop the&#xA;  service, which was then known as Magic Online with Digital Objects&#xA;  (MODO). Initially, the idea of charging for virtual goods, as opposed&#xA;  to a subscription model with unlimited access, was greeted with&#xA;  skepticism. Additionally, concerns were floated over how solid the&#xA;  server and trading code would be;[6] if exploits were found, the&#xA;  entire economy could easily be destroyed. After a period of&#xA;  beta-testing, the game became available to the general public in June&#xA;  2002. The name was changed from MODO to its final commercial title, Magic: The Gathering Online (MTGO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game apparently gained &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/6985_The_MODO_FiascoCorporate_Hubris_and_Magic_Online.html&quot;&gt;some notoriety during its development&lt;/a&gt; under this name, which may have caused it to stick.  It's likely that this is simply an affectionate hold-over nickname from a time when this old name was relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T13:28:05.370" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15365" CreationDate="2014-04-24T14:11:03.223" Score="3" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Seoni who has a d4 for Strength and no Melee skill. If I want to resolve a combat check with my strength can I play a Soldier card which adds 1d4 to a Melee combat check if I don't have the Melee skill? Are my normal attacks, by default, Melee?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastEditorUserId="7003" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T20:47:32.997" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T20:47:32.997" Title="Can a character without a skill use a card that adds to that skill?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15355" CreationDate="2014-04-24T14:40:36.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unfortunately, No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizo/faq/v5748nruor1gk#v5748eaic9ram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paizo FAQ's Attempting a Check section&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards that require a check specify the skill or skills you can use to attempt the check. Each check to defeat or acquire a card lists one or more skills; you may choose any of the listed skills for your check. For example, if a check lists Dexterity, Disable, Strength, and Melee, you may use any one of those skills to attempt your check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may not play cards that modify a skill unless you’re using that skill, and players may not play cards that affect combat unless you’re attempting a combat check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So based on the first part, you have to choose one of the listed skills for your check, and if you do not have the skill, you cannot choose it. Then, based on the second part, you can only play cards that modify the skill you chose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So since your character does not have the Melee skill, you cannot choose to use it to resolve the check, so therefore you cannot use the Soldier to add to the check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T14:40:36.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15357" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-24T15:21:01.510" Score="-1" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any good introductory bridge video lessons/courses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="5314" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T22:01:14.153" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T22:08:51.797" Title="Bridge video lessons" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-04-27T14:53:36.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15360" CreationDate="2014-04-24T16:52:38.177" Score="4" ViewCount="22825" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Action Card directions on a Double Rent card, it can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; be played with a Rent card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it is the only card that cannot be played alone, does it count against your total cards played count for a given turn (which cannot exceed 3)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2021-10-17T20:05:09.207" Title="Does playing a &quot;Double Rent&quot; card in Monopoly Deal count against your card play total on a turn?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15359" CreationDate="2014-04-24T18:58:52.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It counts as two cards out of your three for that turn. Taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly-game.net/Classic_Monopoly_FAQ.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the FAQ monopoly-game.net&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q - IF I USE A ‘DOUBLE THE RENT’ CARD WITH A STANDARD RENT CARD, DOES&#xA;  THIS COUNT AS ‘PLAYING’ 2 CARDS, OR 1? A - This would count as 2 out&#xA;  of the possible 3 cards you can play per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional sources that confirm this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://monopolydealrules.com/index.php?page=rent#question-rent-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MonopolyDealRules.com&lt;/a&gt; on rules for Rent cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T18:58:52.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15357" CreationDate="2014-04-24T22:03:21.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Join us for Bridge with Shaw Taylor&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GQGfdlNYyM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GQGfdlNYyM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 hours in length. Starts from very beginning, assumes no prior Bridge knowledge, and finishes with &quot;Blackwood&quot; small slam game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Learn How to Play &quot;Contract Bridge&quot; the Card Game&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yzS_26fICk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yzS_26fICk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Series of videos, starts from very beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Learn Bridge&quot; by Andrew Robson: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGw5trRnIj8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGw5trRnIj8&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Introduction to Bridge&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0w6ZKwgErQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0w6ZKwgErQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Australian Bridge Federation brings you an introduction to the game of Bridge presented by one of Australia's premier Bridge teachers Joan Butts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5314" LastEditorUserId="5314" LastEditDate="2014-04-24T22:08:51.797" LastActivityDate="2014-04-24T22:08:51.797" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-04-24T22:03:21.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19260" CreationDate="2014-04-24T23:24:36.957" Score="13" ViewCount="2637" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been told that I must do two things in order to win hard games in Othello (Reversi):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not take the X squares, as they are the worst squares on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kD0Ze.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Othello board with &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; squares labeled; they are the four squares one square diagonal from each corner&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all know that we have to take the corners. I am tired of keep hearing that stupid hint. What I want to know is how force my opponent into taking the x squares and the squares around the corners so I can use his pieces to jump into the corners. What squares do I have to take? what strategy to follow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7028" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-04-25T21:24:32.433" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T18:48:46.430" Title="How to force the opponent to take the x squares?" Tags="|othello|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15364" CreationDate="2014-04-25T04:45:30.820" Score="13" ViewCount="43552" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say, for example, you have a card that is still legal in standard but the version you have of it comes from a set that has since been rotated out. Can you still play the version from your older set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7179" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T15:20:51.337" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T15:20:51.337" Title="Can you play older versions of cards in standard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-standard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15363" CreationDate="2014-04-25T05:30:22.990" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The only thing that matters for determining card legality is the name of the card. As far as the Oracle is concerned, 2 different printings of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=shock&quot;&gt;shock&lt;/a&gt; are the exact same card for all game and tournament rule purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.3. Authorized Cards&#xA;Players may use any Authorized Game Cards from Magic: The Gathering expansions, core sets, special sets, supplements, and promotional printings. Authorized Game Cards are cards that, unaltered, meet the following conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is genuine and published by Wizards of the Coast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card a standard Magic back or is a double-faced card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card does not have squared corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card has black or white borders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The&#xA;card is not a token card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is not damaged or modified in a&#xA;way that might make it marked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is otherwise legal for the&#xA;tournament as defined by the format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is a proxy issued by&#xA;the judge of a tournament (see section 3.4 for rules about proxies).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other cards that are not Authorized Game Cards are prohibited in all sanctioned tournaments.&#xA;Unglued and Unhinged basic land cards are allowed in sanctioned Magic tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may use cards from the Alpha printing only if the deck is in opaque sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may use otherwise-legal non-English and/or misprinted cards provided they are not using them to create an advantage by using misleading text or pictures. Official promotional textless spells are allowed in sanctioned Magic tournaments in which they would otherwise be legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artistic modifications are acceptable in sanctioned tournaments, provided that the modifications do not make the card art unrecognizable, contain substantial strategic advice, or contain offensive images. Artistic modifications also may not obstruct or change the mana cost or name of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Head Judge is the final authority on acceptable cards for a tournament.the mana cost or name of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T05:30:22.990" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15355" CreationDate="2014-04-25T14:56:44.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading some other forums, I believe the answer is actually &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: someone of the below is copied from David C Ellis's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizo/faq/v5748nruor1gk#v5748eaic9ram&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Paizo FAQ's Attempting a Check section&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that require a check specify the skill or skills you can use to attempt the check. Each check to defeat or acquire a card lists one or more skills; you may choose any of the listed skills for your check. For example, if a check lists Dexterity, Disable, Strength, and Melee, you may use any one of those skills to attempt your check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your character doesn’t have any of the skills listed for a check, you can still attempt the check (unless you’re trying to recharge a card; see Recharge on page 15), but your die is a d4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Recharge on page 15 reads:)if you don't have at least one of the skills listed for the check, you cannot attempt to recharge the card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may not play cards that modify a skill unless you’re using that skill, and players may not play cards that affect combat unless you’re attempting a combat check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So based on the first and second quote, you have to choose one of the skills listed on the card you're attempting to acquire/defeat/etc. even if you don't have that skill on your character card, but your die will be a d4. The wording &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Even if&lt;/em&gt; your character doesn’t have any of the skills&amp;quot; simply suggests an extreme case, it doesn't mean that's the only situation where you can use a d4. It implies that you may use a d4 for a skill check with a skill you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; have, even if there are other skills (that you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have) to choose from. The only exception is recharging. In that case, you must recharge using one of the skills that you do have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, based on the third quote, you can only play cards that modify the skill you chose so if you chose melee (even though it's not on your character card), you may use an ally that modifies your melee check. This third quote just states that you may not use an ally that, say, adds a die to your intelligence check if you chose melee as your check attempt skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-25T14:56:44.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15367" CreationDate="2014-04-26T06:06:01.060" Score="4" ViewCount="5210" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trying out EDH for the first time last night we ran into a confusing issue. I was using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Olivia%20Voldaren&quot;&gt;Olivia Voldaren&lt;/a&gt; as my commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One opponent activated &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ajani%20Goldmane&quot;&gt;Ajani Goldmane&lt;/a&gt;'s 6 point ability to summon a white avatar creature, which I then used Olivia to vampire and steal. I think this is okay because despite being white the avatar wouldn't have any non-black, non-red dots on the face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then wanted to steal another one of his creatures that was white and had white mana on the face, but I wasn't sure if this was allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in EDH, I know that I can't construct my deck with cards outside of my commander's colour identity, but does this stop me taking control of creatures outside of my colour range?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7464" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-11T09:43:27.103" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T09:43:27.103" Title="In Commander, does color identity prevent me from taking control of a different colored permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-color-identity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15366" CreationDate="2014-04-26T06:25:42.660" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, stealing an opponent's creature of any color is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limitations are the ones explicitly imposed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Color identity&lt;/em&gt; applies during deck creation. You may not put a white card or a card that uses white mana symbols in your red/black Olivia deck. (You could include a black card that creates a white token, though; or an extort card, since that's just reminder text.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Historical only.)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dragonhighlander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=18057&amp;amp;sid=649200cd90cc81ec8f21c81cb362935a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Before 2016&lt;/a&gt;, there was a special rule limiting how you generate mana: mana outside of your color identity would become colorless when it entered your mana pool. So if you were playing Olivia Voldaren and you would add {W} to your mana pool, you'd get colorless mana instead. This meant you would might trouble activating the abilities of some of the creatures you stole with Olivia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T19:55:04.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:55:04.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15410" CreationDate="2014-04-26T22:37:47.983" Score="9" ViewCount="2246" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any open source programming libraries, perhaps in Python or Lua for example, for modeling table top games to help with design and testing work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7448" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T16:46:51.513" Title="Open source programming toolkits for modeling table top games" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2017-03-27T23:24:39.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T06:13:29.517" Score="3" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a limit to how many characters (specially monsters) can be placed on room space? I just played a session where the keeper placed 4 cultists, a shogoth, and two more monsters on the same &lt;em&gt;space&lt;/em&gt; (space, not room) as the investigators, and it seemed to me that there is no logic to doing that in such a small space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7470" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-04-27T14:55:17.473" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T08:14:45.893" Title="Is there a limit to how many characters can be placed on a room space?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12498" CreationDate="2014-04-27T13:21:28.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12505/&quot;&gt;user1873 pointed out&lt;/a&gt;, this isn't a way your opponent can be defeated. Furthermore, you cannot control more than five non-Field Spell or Trap cards. Spells and Traps on your side of the field are under your control, even if they are equipped to cards your opponent controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should read or re-read the rule book. If you have already read it, it appears you have some significant misunderstandings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7473" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T12:37:31.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-27T16:27:34.127" Score="8" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone has assembled the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deceiver%20Exarch&quot;&gt;Deceiver Exarch&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Splinter%20Twin&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt; combo, and they say &amp;quot;make a bunch of dudes and kill you&amp;quot;, without telling me the number, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with asking him is that this is a situation where the player is committing a minor rules violation — he's not proposing a proper shortcut — and he gets rewarded for doing that by getting free information: he knows that I'm interested in the number of Deceiver Exarchs that he's making&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to handle this situation without rewarding my opponent with free information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T12:17:48.863" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T18:01:22.907" Title="How many is &quot;A bunch&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15373" CreationDate="2014-04-27T17:58:25.950" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not a lot you can do to screw over a player for being vague. Because the rules-provided answer is basically &amp;quot;Force them to be less vague.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really what players are doing when they say they make &amp;quot;a bunch&amp;quot; of tokens is telling their opponent &amp;quot;Look, I have my combo. Gonna scoop now?&amp;quot; If you do anything other than scoop, &lt;em&gt;of course&lt;/em&gt; they're gonna play more tightly — since now they're actually playing it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Get in the habit of always asking for clarification. Then you're not giving away any information about your own plan.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About the most &amp;quot;underhanded&amp;quot; things you can legitimately do are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask really casually and hope they say something a little more definite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;So, that's what, a million damage heading my way?&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&amp;quot;Yup.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&amp;quot;After blockers, I'll &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Charm&quot;&gt;Rakdos Charm&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most competitive players would call a judge on you and you'd end up in an annoying argument about who exactly said what when. You might also develop a reputation for pettiness of poor sportsmanship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Ask someone to slow it down and show you the combo steps. As they do so, they'll probably announce a specific number as part of a shortcut. (This works better with Rakdos Charm than &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Batwing%20Brume&quot;&gt;Batwing Brume&lt;/a&gt;, because you can do it while they execute the combo instead of having to wait for them to declare attackers.) This is a trick that may actually get you some wins against the more complex combo decks, when they just straight-up botch their combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T18:01:22.907" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T18:01:22.907" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13134" CreationDate="2014-04-27T19:53:39.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Forgeworld has been re-vamping these rules for 30k (heresy-era) games.  The only current re-vamp is the Castellax, which is a variant of the Castellan (#2 or #4 in the pic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7476" LastActivityDate="2014-04-27T19:53:39.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2014-04-27T21:11:49.070" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of each player starting with 7 cards, what I do is have each player start with 10, 20, 30, 40, or even 50 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7477" LastEditorUserId="2960" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T20:35:09.803" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T20:35:09.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15370" CreationDate="2014-04-28T05:26:49.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can understand that it looked odd but no, there is no limit on the number of monsters or investigators in a space. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double checked the manual and it says nothing in either direction. So while the manual doesn't explicitly allow for unlimited number of monsters in a space it neither disallows it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastEditorUserId="1193" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T08:14:45.893" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T08:14:45.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15380" CreationDate="2014-04-28T08:14:33.193" Score="7" ViewCount="4488" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/138161/firefly-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Firefly&lt;/em&gt; board game&lt;/a&gt; last night and we realized that we couldn't find any particular benefit in Amnon Duul's bonus for being solid, specifically &quot;You may load any number of passengers and fugitives at Space bazaar, no limit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We couldn't find any use for said passengers or fugitives in the rule book, the only thing we could think of was if - while on a mission- a fugitive/passenger dies (perhaps due to the Reaver Cutter encounter) you can refill without having to do any misbehaving again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use passengers and fugitives loaded at space bazaar for anything other than re-obtaining those lost during completion of a mission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2019-09-09T23:49:35.167" LastActivityDate="2019-09-09T23:49:35.167" Title="What is the benefit of being solid with Amnon Duul (Travel Hub)?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15379" CreationDate="2014-04-28T09:38:53.513" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As well as being useful in cases where fugitives or passengers die and you have a job which requires a specific amount of them, there is another case where being solid with Amnon Duul can be handy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start a job like Patience' &lt;code&gt;Ranch Hand Recruitment&lt;/code&gt; which states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pick-Up&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Load Passengers, no limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drop-Off&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Deliver Passengers. Get paid $300 per Passenger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but you have some of your cargo hold filled with other stuff (requirements for another job, parts, fuel or randomly acquired cargo) which you are able to offload on the way, then you can top up your cargo hold with more passengers so that you can earn more on completion of the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T09:38:53.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15373" CreationDate="2014-04-28T12:44:04.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Comprehensive Rules on shortcuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;716.2a&lt;/strong&gt; At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a non-repetitive series of choices, &lt;em&gt;a loop that repeats a specified number of times&lt;/em&gt;, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is never contradicted in the Tournament Rules and should thus hold true to any play environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule states that a shortcut loop requires that the number of iterations of the loop be specified.  Therefore, an arbitrary number of loop iterations (such as &quot;a bunch&quot;) is never a legal shortcut.  You should get in the habit of always specifying an exact number of loop iterations when declaring shortcuts such as this, and ask that your opponents do the same.  No information about any player's plans is given away if the rule is applied consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, I would simply say,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You have to specify how many &lt;em&gt;a bunch&lt;/em&gt; is.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This language (&quot;you have to&quot;) shows that you're just requesting the shortcut rules be followed properly, not that you're necessarily interested in the exact number, or have a number in mind that would please you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7438" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T12:44:04.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15385" CreationDate="2014-04-28T17:24:08.013" Score="4" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, for example, You Also Need a Baked Potato is in play or the goal is War=Death, what is the effect of the Silver Lining card, which states that creepers cannot prevent you from winning? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7481" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T22:34:26.477" Title="Does Silver Lining negate a creeper requirement?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15315" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:07:11.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I played was to leave the &lt;em&gt;Crop Insurance&lt;/em&gt; card to the player to who had played it while the crop ownership was transferred to the other player. Then we played the same rules otherwise where if the crop is destroyed in some fashion then the player who put down the &lt;em&gt;Crop Insurance&lt;/em&gt; card received the insurance. This would further what I believe was the intention of the card, which is to deter other players from acting on the crop. If they took the crop, the owner of the insurance would have more reason to try to destroy that crop since they would receive their insurance back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we played this way, we would have the card facing the owner of the card, so the &lt;em&gt;Crop Insurance&lt;/em&gt; moves with the crop, but is rotated to face the correct owning player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unsure if this ruling was read somewhere or if we just locally decided to play it that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T00:07:05.833" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T00:07:05.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:07:37.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would keep tabs on this kickstarter that got successfully funded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/64ouncegames/board-games-now-blind-accessible?ref=live&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Games Now Blind Accessible&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T18:07:37.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15382" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:10:02.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, if a player has a creeper in play that player cannot win even if they meet the requirements for winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the requirements for winning also require 1 or more creepers (such as in the War=Death goal) the player can win if they have those creepers, and must have those creepers in order to win, however if the player also has any other creepers (such as taxes) in play they cannot win. In this case, a player must have Death and War, but must not have any other creepers in play, in order to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Silver Lining card only removes the requirement that creepers prevent the player from winning. It does nothing else to the creepers or to the requirements. So if you have a goal: War = Death, you can still win if you have War, Death, Taxes, and the Silver Lining card is in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You also need the potato&quot; places the requirement that the baked potato must be one of your cards in addition to the rest of the requirements in order to win. When that card is in play you cannot win without the potato, and you must have the potato in order to win, regardless of whether or not the silver lining is in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, when a creeper is part of the requirements for a goal or a win condition that creeper in that case does not prevent the player from winning by achieving that goal regardless of whether or not there is a silver lining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6365" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T18:10:02.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15386" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:12:04.913" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T18:12:04.913" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T18:12:04.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15387" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-28T18:12:04.913" Score="0" Body="Farmageddon is a frenetic farming game for two to four farmers. Plant big-money crops like Wary Squash or Grumpy Melon, but watch out - they're tasty targets for other players!" OwnerUserId="7483" LastEditorUserId="7483" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T19:49:20.087" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T19:49:20.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11162" CreationDate="2014-04-28T19:15:58.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only one I'll add is whenever a '0' is played, all players pass their hands to the person to their right (regardless of the direction the turn sequence is currently going). Players who receive a hand of one card must say &quot;UNO&quot; or receive the penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastEditorUserId="7103" LastEditDate="2014-04-28T20:14:23.527" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T20:14:23.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14013" CreationDate="2014-04-28T20:33:54.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;As a matter of fact, as an example, it's how my Seoni maximizes her damage output with her fireballs.&#xA;I first discard a card to trigger the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can then do all of the following...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveal the &lt;strong&gt;Sage's Journal&lt;/strong&gt;, an Item, to add 1d4, if I'm in combat against a Henchman or Villain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recharge an &lt;strong&gt;Acolyte&lt;/strong&gt;, an Ally, to add yet another 1d4 to the check, since it uses my Arcane die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard a &lt;strong&gt;Blessing of the Gods&lt;/strong&gt; to add yet another Arcane die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes her &lt;em&gt;insanely&lt;/em&gt; powerful, but if I keep doing it, I'll burn through cards... and Seoni's deck size is small enough as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-04-28T20:33:54.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15394" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:16:22.330" Score="14" ViewCount="9918" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast a spell which then turns out to be un-playable, what happens to my spell? E.G.:  Casting a spell on something that has Hexproof and can't be targeted in the first place. Do I simply place my spell back in my hand? Do I untap the lands used to pay for that spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T23:10:56.980" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T14:53:49.480" Title="What happens when I cast a spell incorrectly?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15391" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:32:15.683" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;pretty clear quote for your situation taken from the comprehensive rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;717.1. If a player realizes that he or she can’t legally take an action after starting to do so, the entire action is reversed and any&#xA;  payments already made are canceled. No abilities trigger and no&#xA;  effects apply as a result of an undone action. If the action was&#xA;  casting a spell, the spell returns to the zone it came from. The&#xA;  player may also reverse any legal mana abilities activated while&#xA;  making the illegal play, unless mana from them or from any triggered&#xA;  mana abilities they triggered was spent on another mana ability that&#xA;  wasn’t reversed. Players may not reverse actions that moved cards to a&#xA;  library, moved cards from a library to any zone other than the stack,&#xA;  or caused a library to be shuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T13:32:15.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15391" CreationDate="2014-04-29T13:37:25.293" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;If The Spell Never Had Any Legal Targets&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot cast a spell that requires a target unless there is a legal target for the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you try to cast a spell that requires a target, and discover that there is no legal target for that spell, it is considered an &lt;em&gt;illegal action&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules on handling illegal actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;729.1&lt;/strong&gt; If a player takes an illegal action or starts to take an action but can’t legally complete it, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled. No abilities trigger and no effects apply as a result of an undone action. If the action was casting a spell, the spell returns to the zone it came from. Each player may also reverse any legal mana abilities that player activated while making the illegal play, unless mana from those abilities or from any triggered mana abilities they caused to trigger was spent on another mana ability that wasn’t reversed. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you would essentially &amp;quot;rewind&amp;quot; the game state, untapping your lands and returning the card to your hand.  Unfortunately, this misplay does mean that your opponent has earned some free information (i.e. they now know one of the cards you have in your hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If The Spell's Target Becomes Illegal After Casting It&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, your spell has already been cast, because you chose its target while casting it and at that time the spell had a legal target, but during the resolution of the spell, that target is discovered to no longer be legal.  This can happen, for instance, if the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ranger's Guile&lt;/a&gt; is cast in response to your spell, giving the target of your spell Hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your spell is resolving, it checks again to see if the target is still legal.  In this case, since the creature now has Hexproof, it will be determined that the target is not legal, and the spell will go to the graveyard and have no effect.  You will not untap your lands.  You simply lose that mana and that spell's effect; similar to if your spell was countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant section of the comprehensive rules states (under the heading &amp;quot;Resolving Spells and Abilities&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. If all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal, the spell or ability doesn’t resolve. It’s removed from the stack and, if it’s a spell, put into its owner’s graveyard. Otherwise, the spell or ability will resolve normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7438" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2024-02-23T14:53:49.480" LastActivityDate="2024-02-23T14:53:49.480" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15396" CreationDate="2014-04-29T14:25:16.400" Score="2" ViewCount="30029" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent casts say an Elspeth, can I then Hero's Downfall that Planeswalker before any abilities are used? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my question boils down to: are planeswalker abilities sorcery or instant speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-29T14:31:26.673" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T14:42:01.693" Title="Can I destroy a Planeswalker before its abilities are used?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-04-29T18:10:39.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15395" CreationDate="2014-04-29T14:33:03.913" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only activate a planeswalker ability as a sorcery (when the stack is empty and it is your main phase). However, if your opponent casts a planeswalker, and it resolves, then he regains priority, which means that he will have the chance to activate an ability of his planeswalker before you can destroy it. You can cast Hero's Downfall in response, but that ability will already be on the stack and destroying the planeswalker won't stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if there is an ability that triggers on a planewalker entering the battlefield, then it is different. In this case, the triggered ability will go on the stack before your opponent has a chance to activate a loyalty ability, and you can cast Hero's Downfall while that trigger is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers are powerful allies you can call on to fight by your side. You can cast a planeswalker only at the time you could cast a sorcery. They’re permanents, and each one enters the battlefield with the number of loyalty counters indicated in its lower right corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each planeswalker has loyalty abilities that are activated by adding or removing loyalty counters from the planeswalker. For example, the symbol {+1} means “Put one loyalty counter on this planeswalker” and the symbol {-3} means “Remove three loyalty counters from this planeswalker.” &lt;strong&gt;You can activate one of these abilities only at the time you could cast a sorcery and only if none of that planeswalker’s loyalty abilities have been activated yet that turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your planeswalkers can be attacked by your opponent’s creatures (if so, you can block as normal), and your opponents can damage them with their spells and abilities instead of damaging you. Any damage dealt to a planeswalker causes it to lose that many loyalty counters. If a planeswalker has no loyalty counters, it’s put into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T14:42:01.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14949" CreationDate="2014-04-29T16:41:20.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You'll take damage and then trigger the &quot;if undefeated&quot; effect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered under the &lt;strong&gt;Encountering A Card&lt;/strong&gt; section on page 10 of the rulebook where it outlines the specific steps to resolve an encounter, and under the &lt;strong&gt;Attempting A Check&lt;/strong&gt; section on pages 10-12 which details out one of those steps with several sub-steps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps to resolve an encounter are:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Evade the Card (Optional)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Apply Any Effects That Happen Before The Encounter, If Needed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Attempt the Check&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Attempt the Next Check, If Needed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Apply Any Effects That Happen After The Encounter, If Needed&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Resolve the Encounter&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you get to the Attempt the Check step, you follow these sub-steps:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Determine Which Die You're Using&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Determine the Difficulty&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Play Cards and Use Powers That Affect the Check (Optional)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Assemble Your Dice&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Attempt the Roll&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Take Damage, If Necessary&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you'll take the damage from failing to defeat the Plague Zombie first during the &lt;em&gt;Attempt the Check&lt;/em&gt; step's &lt;em&gt;Take Damage, If Necessary&lt;/em&gt; sub-step. Then, during the &lt;em&gt;Resolve the Encounter&lt;/em&gt; step, you have not &quot;succeeded at all of the checks required to defeat a bane&quot;, so it is &lt;em&gt;undefeated&lt;/em&gt;, triggering the special effect on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2014-04-29T16:41:20.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15391" CreationDate="2014-04-30T04:24:36.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have quoted, rule 717.1 applies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;717.1. If a player realizes that he or she can’t legally take an action after starting to do so, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled. No abilities trigger and no effects apply as a result of an undone action. If the action was casting a spell, the spell returns to the zone it came from. The player may also reverse any legal mana abilities activated while making the illegal play, unless mana from them or from any triggered mana abilities they triggered was spent on another mana ability that wasn’t reversed. Players may not reverse actions that moved cards to a library, moved cards from a library to any zone other than the stack, or caused a library to be shuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But unlike what callahan09 says, if there are other legal targets you are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; forced to name one of them. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/280905-shroud-targetting&quot;&gt;This post from a Level 2 judge agrees.&lt;/a&gt; (Note that the O-ring case is different because Oblivion Ring itself doens't target, only the ability, and the ability is mandatory.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7492" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T04:24:36.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15400" CreationDate="2014-04-30T10:16:14.747" Score="9" ViewCount="4942" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take the following situation&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I'm at 2 life, I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=sphinx%27s+revelation&quot;&gt;Sphinx's Revelation&lt;/a&gt; for 2 life gain on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=warleader%27s+helix&quot;&gt;Warleader's Helix&lt;/a&gt; which deals 4 damage to me&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I then cast another Sphinx's Revelation for 1 life gain.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack wise my life would go like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with 2 life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 1 life, for 3 total life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take 4 damage, go to -1 life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain 2 life, ending in a total of 1 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I end up at 1 life, but at one point, my life total was -1. My question is this: Does the stack continue to be carried out until it's complete, or would the game end the moment my life becomes 0 or less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T10:55:50.460" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T11:24:33.240" Title="Will I lose the game if I dip below 0hp whilst there's a spell that'll heal me on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15399" CreationDate="2014-04-30T10:47:09.313" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand the situation you are describing correctly it is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player at 2 life casts Sphinx's Revelation with X = 2. this is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His opponent responds by casting Warleader's Helix&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The initial player in turn responds by casting Sphinx's Revelation with X=1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority until the stack is resolved or some other event occurs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being the case, the following would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sphinx's revelation with X = 1 resolves, you gain 1 life to be on 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based actions are checked (technically, twice immediately in succession as both players pass priority) and everyone is still alive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warleader's helix resolves (because the players have initiated a shortcut of passing priority until the stack resolves), you take 4 damage to be on -1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based actions are checked. You are dead. the game ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nothing to see here, the game finished. Sphinx's revelation with x = 2 never happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State based actions occur whenever a player would get priority, not just when the stack resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T10:49:34.007" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T10:49:34.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15399" CreationDate="2014-04-30T11:04:03.617" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will lose the game immediately after Warleader's Helix resolves, without getting to heal back into the positives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because of state-based actions are checked every single time someone receives priority&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/704-state-based-actions.html&quot;&gt;rule 704.3&lt;/a&gt;), and you receive priority after each item on the stack resolves&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/116-timing-and-priority.html#rule-116&quot;&gt;rule 116.3b&lt;/a&gt;). The first state-based action checked is if someone has 0 or less life (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/704-state-based-actions.html&quot;&gt;704.5a&lt;/a&gt;), and if so, they lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you receive priority and check for state-based actions between each and every spell on the stack resolving, you will lose once Warleader's Hex finishes resolving and puts you at -1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Addendum: these rules have quirky and useful side-effects.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. But they are not checked during spell resolution. This means you can have less than 1 life total &lt;em&gt;during the resolution of a spell,&lt;/em&gt; so long as it's back up at 1 or more by the time the spell is fished resolving. That won't help you here though.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. This also means that you can cast instants whilst the stack still has spells resolving. If the stack has A and B on it, then B resolves, you can put C on the stack, and that will resolve too, before A finally does.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T11:24:33.240" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T11:24:33.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15402" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15405" CreationDate="2014-04-30T15:04:31.597" Score="3" ViewCount="2441" Body="&lt;p&gt;This refers to a strong (15-17) 1NT with hand shapes of 4-3-3-3, 4-4-3-2, or 5-3-3-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &quot;flat&quot; hand like (s) Kxx (h) Kxx (d) KJx (c) KQxx, I would refrain from bidding 1NT, after deducting one point from my &quot;bare&quot; 15 for the 4-3-3-3 shape. (All the x's are 7 or lower; give me two or three tens or nines and I would probably open 1NT.) Instead, I would bid one club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Change the hand slightly to (s) Kx (h) Kxx (d) KJxx (c) KQxx, and I'd probably bid 1 diamond since I'm 2-3 in the majors, even though my shape is technically 2-3-4-4. (But if the major and minor suits were switched, so I have two high card majors, I'd bid 1NT and hope to hear 2c (Stayman) or a transfer bid.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 5-4-2-2 &quot;semibalanced&quot; hand, I wouldn't bid 1NT with 15-16, but might do so with 17-18, deducting a point or so for two doubletons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would most experts refrain from bidding 1NT with 15 high card points in the above situations, or similar ones that I haven't mentioned? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T17:54:05.477" Title="Are there times NOT to bid 1NT with 15 high card points and a balanced hand?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-04-30T16:07:14.963" Score="2" ViewCount="665" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone please explain the ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Survival%20of%20the%20Fittest&quot;&gt;Survival of the Fittest&lt;/a&gt; and the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Survival%20of%20the%20Fittest&quot;&gt;Survival of the Fittest&lt;/a&gt; out, and I have 1 creature in my hand, and I have priority.  Assuming I have unlimited mana, can I keep discarding a creature card and search for a creature card without an opponent casting any instant spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, I will discard a creature card and have not pass priority, can an opponent cast instants like disenchant on the survival to stop me to continue searching?  If an opponent can cast disenchant before priority was pass, would I still need another creature card in my hand to be able to discard and search again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unclear of how this would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7496" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T16:37:04.133" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T16:37:04.133" Title="Survival of the Fittest activations and priority" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15403" CreationDate="2014-04-30T16:12:19.927" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;NB: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Survival%20of%20the%20Fittest&quot;&gt;Survival of the Fittest&lt;/a&gt; has an activated ability, not a triggered ability.  Triggered abilities always use the words &amp;quot;When&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;Whenever&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;At&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must discard a creature card (and pay green) as an activation cost in order to put the ability on the stack.  It now goes on the stack and your opponent gets priority before it resolves.  So they could destroy Survival of The Fittest before you get to search and add a card to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still get to do your search and add the card, but obviously you cannot now use the ability again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can discard as many cards to it as you already have in your hand while retaining priority and not allowing your opponent to respond.  However, they will have a chance to respond before you're allowed to tutor up the new ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T16:12:19.927" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15402" CreationDate="2014-04-30T17:20:48.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't speak for most experts, but I can speak for myself. I &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; downgrade a balanced 15-count. I occasionally upgrade a balanced 14-count, and I know several good players who do it more frequently (and announce &quot;a good 14-17&quot; when their partners open). Likewise, I &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; downgrade an 18-count into a 1NT opener, but occasionally upgrade a 17-count into a 1-level opening followed by 2NT rebid (almost always when holding a decent 5-card suit, more frequently when the suit is a major).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the subject of 5332s, a national champion once told me that when you hold a 5-card major with 15 or 16 HCP, you should either almost always or almost never open 1NT. He was in the almost always camp; he would prefer to open the major if literally all of his high-card points were in two suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to 5422 shapes, whether you should open 1NT depends on a couple of things. Most important is rebid problems. If you have 5 diamonds and 4 hearts (e.g. xx AQxx AKJxx Qx), you will have a rebid problem after partner responds 1S or 1NT. I don't think this hand is good enough to reverse, and rebidding 2D is terrible, so I would open 1NT. On the other hand, if your hand is AQxx xx Qx AKJxx, you have a good rebid after any of partner's likely responses, so there's no need to open 1NT. A difficult case is when you hold 5 clubs and 4 diamonds; if you play Crawling Stayman (i.e. that 1NT-2C-2D-2H shows that responder has a weak hand with length in both majors), you should avoid opening 1NT without at least three cards in at least one major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration for 5422 hands is whether your values are in your long suits or your short suits. A hand like Kx Qxxxx Kxxx AK has values concentrated in the short suits; consider opening 1NT instead of 1H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T17:20:48.963" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15427" CreationDate="2014-04-30T18:00:51.700" Score="1" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not 100% grasping marriages/melding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll run you through what I understand/think of it so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have lead, and a matching (trump, for this example) King/Queen, I can lead one of them, say &quot;marriage&quot;, and reveal the other. Now, the opponent responds to the lead trick with a Jack and if I win, do I then receive the 20 (or 40) points PLUS 2 points for their Jack? Also upon winning would I put both the King and Queen and their Jack together as a trick and in my pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above is true (I'm guessing it's not), then that would bring my hand to 1 card smaller than opponent, and that makes no sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely I'm doing some of this wrong, heh. I've tried reading Pagat's rules, and any other sources. The only thing I'm certain about is revealing, must have lead, and also must win a trick anytime during that hand for points to count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7497" LastEditorUserId="7497" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T22:02:53.677" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T16:29:17.023" Title="Marriages in Schnapsen/Sixty-six" Tags="|schnapsen|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15407" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-04-30T19:17:12.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sixty-six or Schnapsen is a fast 5- or 6-card point-trick game of the marriage type for 2–4 players, played with 20 or 24 cards. First recorded in 1718 under the name Mariagen-Spiel, it is the national card game of Austria and also popular in Germany and Hungary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Closely related games for various numbers of players are popular all over Europe and include Czech/Slovak Mariáš, Hungarian Ulti, Finnish Marjapussi, French Bezique and American Pinochle. Together with the Jack–Nine family they form the large King–Queen family of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T19:17:12.030" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T19:17:12.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15408" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-04-30T19:17:12.030" Score="0" Body="Sixty-six or Schnapsen is a fast 5- or 6-card point-trick game of the marriage type for 2–4 players, played with 20 or 24 cards." OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-04-30T19:17:12.030" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T19:17:12.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8093" CreationDate="2014-04-30T20:32:49.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What makes an early-game trasher powerful, especially against an opponent giving out curses, is determined mainly by two things: &lt;strong&gt;how many cards&lt;/strong&gt; it can trash at once, and the &lt;strong&gt;benefit&lt;/strong&gt; it gives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curse:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Develop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moneylender&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trade Route&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Island fails to negate the VP loss when trashing a curse and gives no benefit when played. Trade Route likewise gives no benefit when played at this point other than the +Buy. Mine and Moneylender can't trash curses at all, so Witch away! And, well, we don't talk about Develop...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trash:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ambassador&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chapel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Masquerade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading Post&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ambassador, Chapel, Remake, Steward, and Trading Post all trash multiple cards per play. Bishop gives similar trashing power in a multiplayer game. Your Witch is unlikely to be able to keep up cursing fast enough to hurt your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hermit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack of All Trades&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remodel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Salvager&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Transmute&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hermit and Jack can't trash treasures, and the rest give little or no benefit when trashing a Copper. Now, of course your question specified that you have an Estate in hand. To me, playing any of these would be contingent on having that Estate.&#xA;For Remodel in particular, the relevant things to consider are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a 3 or 4 cost card that I really want?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a decent 2 cost card my opponents can turn that curse into?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T20:32:49.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2014-04-30T21:43:52.927" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently, there are none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be looking for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Carlo_method&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monte Carlo simulation&lt;/a&gt; tools, but this might be a very, very broad description of tools for your purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about the subject for a while now, and I've come to believe that the tools that are the best fit to the job are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Business_process_management&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;business process management (BPM)&lt;/a&gt; tools, in particular the BPM modeling and simulation tools. They allow you to describe a turn as a processes (i.e., a series of steps that a player should take when he is called to act) and simulate many matches to collect and analyse critical indicators. You should also take a look on business rules management systems (BRMS) that allow you to easily set rules that might help you emulate smart decision making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A decent open source BPM tool is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jboss.org/jbpm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jBPM&lt;/a&gt; for BPM and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jboss.org/drools.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drools&lt;/a&gt; as the BRMS. There is also &lt;a href=&quot;http://activiti.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Activiti&lt;/a&gt;. Sadly, both tools lack simulation capabilities. If you use BPMN 2.0 to model your game as a process, you can try simulating with &lt;a href=&quot;http://code.google.com/p/bpmn-simulator/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bpmn-simulator&lt;/a&gt;, but then you lose the BRMS integration that is important to simulate player decision making.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, I must emphasize that this is the best approach I could think of with today's open source software. This does not means that this is a good approach. In fact, I haven't tried it myself yet. Still it makes sense to me to model a game as a very complex process filled with rules that could be simulated with adequate tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-04-30T21:43:52.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15414" CreationDate="2014-04-30T23:34:39.710" Score="13" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should I do with an $8 hand that appears in Turns 3 through 6, in a game that only goes up to Provinces? Consider 4-player games primarily, but if games with other numbers of players significantly change this decision, please mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This might happen a few different ways: Coppersmith and a lucky draw will get you this in T3/T4, but even a simple Big Money strategy can pick this up on T5/T6.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize the answer here is most likely &quot;it depends,&quot; but what does it depend on? Does the availability of $7 cards make an early Province buy less tempting? If the other worthwhile cards cost only $5 (or even $4), does it change the answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because I've been playing a fair amount of 4-player Androdominion, and early $8 hands crop up occasionally. I usually buy the Province, simply because victory usually occurs somewhere around 5 provinces, and I prefer the bird in the hand rather than trusting what the future might bring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T04:25:32.220" Title="What to do with an early $8 hand?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2014-04-30T23:54:41.413" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, I'd buy a Province too, if there were cards like Tournament, or Explorer, which benefit from Provinces.  Maybe Bishop...sure, you lose a VP when you Bishop a Province, but it's still 5 VP not cluttering your deck.  If you have something that lets you drill down past your Victory cards, like Farming Village, or Vagrant, or if you are going to be eating a lot of Curses or Ruins (so the Province is one cluttering card among many)...those are all situations where the hurt of an early dead card is somewhat mitigated.  There are probably more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'd get two gold first, &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; buy Provinces.  The early province is likely to slow you down more than it's worth when your deck is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T01:42:53.423" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T01:42:53.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7100" CreationDate="2014-05-01T02:36:42.763" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found Crayola brand washable crayons to work the best. For the lack of boldness I subbed brown for yellow, purple for orange. I bought both Empire Builder and Empire Express straight from Mayfair but got different crayons with each. Express came with no-name crayons that leave a slight stain on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7501" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T02:36:42.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15411" CreationDate="2014-05-01T04:25:32.220" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In a 4p game, you should be more eager to take an early Province than in 3p or 2p.&lt;/strong&gt; There are two reasons for this. First, in 4p each Province is a larger share of the available points, and you have on average a smaller number of turns. Second, in 4p you are more likely to see the game end on three piles before all the Provinces are gone. As a rule of thumb, I would grab the early province in 4p, but not in 3p or 2p.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, what are some of the Kingdom cards that would indicate that you should hurry or not hurry?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament&lt;/strong&gt;, as swbarnes2's answer indicates, is a very powerful card, and its presence means that Provinces in your deck are very important. In Tournament games, never pass up the opportunity to get a Province.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Explorer&lt;/strong&gt; is another card that keys off of Province, but it's a fairly weak card, and you can't be sure of connecting it with a Province when you need to. I don't consider its presence a reason to hurry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that give you something else very strong to do with your money should make you think twice. Overbuy cards like a &lt;strong&gt;Masterpiece&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Stonemason&lt;/strong&gt; (with a good target) give you more than the usual opportunity to improve your deck quickly, and are likely a better choice than Province on turn 5. &lt;strong&gt;Goons&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;King's Court&lt;/strong&gt;, and to a lesser extent &lt;strong&gt;Expand&lt;/strong&gt; are other important cards can be very attractive for an early turn. Depending on what the other players are doing, other powerful $5 cards like &lt;strong&gt;Wharf&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Cultist&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Rebuild&lt;/strong&gt; might need to take priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, what would suggest that you need the Province right away? First and foremost, look for piles that might empty out. For instance, if &lt;strong&gt;Ironworks&lt;/strong&gt; is available with attractive targets like &lt;strong&gt;Great Hall&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Fishing Village&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Ironmonger&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Gardens&lt;/strong&gt;, etc., those piles are likely to deplete very rapidly in a 4p game, and you should grab the points while you can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast again, look for cards that will slow the game down--an absence of buys, and delaying attacks like &lt;strong&gt;Militia&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Ghost Ship&lt;/strong&gt;. If those attacks are flying, you're going to have a lot of trouble buying a second Province without a good deck, so you're likely to want Gold. (Sometimes in a 4p game you don't need to bother with attacks yourself if everyone else is playing them for you!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T04:25:32.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-01T08:34:16.573" Score="6" ViewCount="5294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Munchkin 1 &amp;amp; 2 and recently I was given Munchkin Zombies. At the instructions of the latter, it is said that I combine these three (any kind of Munchkin to be honest), but it doesn't say how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I combine Munchkin 1 &amp;amp; 2 with Munchkin Zombies 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6128" LastEditorUserId="6128" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T08:41:30.603" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T22:08:25.863" Title="How do I combine regular Munchkin with Munchkin Zombies?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15423" CreationDate="2014-05-01T09:32:15.837" Score="2" ViewCount="5231" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is along a similar vain to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/15391/casting-a-spell-incorrectly&quot;&gt;What happens when I cast a spell incorrectly?&lt;/a&gt; but only in that it created a further question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point is it possible to decide that you don't want to cast a spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a very bad habit i know but i often find myself taping mana for a spell then thinking better of it. I've always just gone along with it after that, i followed through the action even if i see a better option but would it be right that i could change my mind and untap my land to carry out a different action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if i don't tap my land but simply drop a spell from my hand to the table without saying anything? Is the casting of that card implicit or would it be right that i could return the card to my hand? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example - I have 3 cards in hand and 4 untaped land. I tap 3 land for a spell, then without saying anything or placing a card on the table i decide that really i want to cast a spell that only requires 1 land to be taped. Would i be allowed to untap either 2 and cast my 1 mana spell or all 3 land and start again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry that's more than one question! Thanks, 7's&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T16:41:08.617" Title="Tap/Untap Land and Casting Spells" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15418" CreationDate="2014-05-01T12:09:36.547" Score="1" ViewCount="1559" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say on the board is a creature with toughness 6. I reduce the toughness of this creature by 3 until end of turn. After this spell resolves, I cast a burn spell which does 3 dmg to that creature. Now the creature has 0 toughness and dies but what is the cause of death? &#xA;And how does this interact with regeneration? As fair as I understand the rules, if a creatures dies because of 0 toughness it cannot be regenerated because its not lethal damage nor a destruction event that causes death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5898" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T12:27:12.243" Title="Reduce toughness and cast dmg spell - cause of death?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15417" CreationDate="2014-05-01T12:27:12.243" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you reduce a creature's toughness from 6 to 3 you just treat it as a creature of toughness 3. So dealing 3 damage to it can be regenerated. The 3 damage does not reduce the toughness to 0. It will still be a creature with toughness 3 with 3 marked damage on it that will usually die but can be saved with regeneration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T12:27:12.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15422" CreationDate="2014-05-01T13:58:41.890" Score="7" ViewCount="1360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy playing Standard and would like to compete on a more competitive level but I am apprehensive of paying, as an extreme example, $25/card for 4 Mutavaults or Sphinx's Revelations, only to have them either not be reprinted in the next block or banned altogether. I was told that WotC has become a lot more judicious in the last several years so that they rarely need to ban a card anymore due to brokenness/overpower. This does not completely alleviate my concern so I would like to know if there is any kind of resource that is known to fairly accurately predict which cards will stay around in the next block and which cards won't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7179" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T17:55:13.460" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T09:31:11.477" Title="What's the best way to determine which cards will be banned or not reprinted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15420" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-05-01T14:13:17.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/138161/firefly-the-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Firefly: The Game&lt;/a&gt; (1-4 players, 2-4 hour playtime) is strongly themed on the Joss Whedon TV show. You start with a ship, a captain, and some meager supplies. You need to balance building your crew and inventory (card drafting) with earning money completing jobs (pick up and deliver, fight aka &quot;Misbehave&quot;, etc.). Each game opens with one of a handful of stories which provides the mission and endgame conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a large universe map (board), lots of cards, some dice, and miniature Firefly, Reaver, and Alliance pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful Links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fireflythegame.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/138161/firefly-the-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4msz2.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4msz2.png&quot; alt=&quot;Firefly: The Game box art&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic1746314_md.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic1746314_md.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Firefly: The Game image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-10-03T23:08:29.017" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T23:08:29.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15421" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-05-01T14:13:17.380" Score="0" Body="Find a crew. Find a job. Keep Flying." OwnerUserId="7502" LastEditorUserId="7502" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T22:57:08.130" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T22:57:08.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15419" CreationDate="2014-05-01T15:40:05.487" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have very little to worry about for standard in terms of banning cards. Standard is a very carefully designed format with a card pool small enough for wizards to have a very good grasp of the format in their internal testing phases. Every time they have banned a card they have learned from it, and the bans in standard are very few and far between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 specific cards you mentioned &lt;strong&gt;will not be banned in standard&lt;/strong&gt;. This is because there is not another opportunity to ban them before they leave the format, which brings me to the more important part of my answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rotation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players worried about the cost of cards in standard should worry far more about &lt;strong&gt;Rotation&lt;/strong&gt; than banning, because rotation is a much more likely thing for standard staples (heavily played, format defining cards) than banning. Both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; and Sphinx's Revelation are in sets which leave the format in the Autumn/Fall of this year (2014) and as such, particularly given how big an impact they have had on the format, are &lt;strong&gt;very likely&lt;/strong&gt; to rotate, and not be reprinted back into standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards tend to avoid having high power cards which people play with/against a lot over a rotation period reprinted. There have been times where they have regretted reprinting staples, such as the Titans cycle of magic 2011/magic 2012 (the poster boy of which was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primeval%20Titan&quot;&gt;Primeval Titan&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The vast majority of the time, when it comes to rotation, you should assume that every card of value is rotating. This is because that is almost always the case. Each set or block has a specific theme with a different mix of mechanics, and while some cards (mostly in the core sets) are reprinted, most of the time there is no guarantee that a card from Return to Ravnica block or Magic 2014 will be around this time next year. The cards that DO get reprinted, tend to be very low value, as they have usually been reprinted many times before. Take &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; as an example for this. Even cards like that take a few seasons off, as Doom Blade did in Magic 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard is a format that Wizards try to fundamentally change once a year, and they do that by removing a lot of cards and replacing them with totally new ones which do very different things (or the same things in different ways). If you are interested in playing standard at any sort of competitive level, then you will need to make yourself quite aware of what cards are rotating when, and either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Accept that those cards will be worth much less than you paid for them when they rotate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to mitigate your losses by selling/trading them before rotation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eternal formats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to note which does have some impact on the above, is that while most staples will rotate out of standard, they will not become worthless. Older formats like Modern or Legacy often have a significant impact on the cost of cards. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; is an example of a reprint of a staple in older formats, which is part of why it's price was so high so early, it has a proven track record. Similarly, some cards will not lose much (if any) value on rotation. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt; is a perfect example for this, Deathrite has a significant presence in Modern (or did, until he was banned) and Legacy decks - where his abilities are much more easily leveraged - but sees very little play in standard. The majority of his price is based on these formats, and as such will change little on rotation. Similarly, many of the strongest cards in Standard will go on to see play in Modern and Legacy, and as such lose much less value on rotation, or rebound from the dip very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, bans are much less frequent, particularly in standard, than rotations. Additionally, the wide reaching nature of rotations makes them much more important to consider than bans when looking at the investment you are willing to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T09:31:11.477" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T09:31:11.477" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15416" CreationDate="2014-05-01T15:50:28.883" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basic lands have hidden text that is no longer printed on them. It reads as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tap: Add [color] to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an activated ability. If you announce that you are activating that ability, and then tap your land, then you have activated that ability. You cannot undo an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if I tap a land, don't announce it, take an action, and then change my mind?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people don't announce that they are activating the mana ability on a land. They simply tap it. I had an opponent that tapped all of his land and announced &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSphinx%27s%5d%2b%5bRevelation%5d&quot;&gt;Sphinx&amp;#39;s Revelation&lt;/a&gt; for 6. I responded with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSkullcrack%5d&quot;&gt;Skullcrack&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent claimed that he had not announced his land activations yet. I called a judge. I personally experienced a Competitive REL floor judge tell that opponent that his intention was obviously to activate the mana abilities, whether or not they were explicitly announced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player intention is often a consideration in judge rulings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if I tap a land, don't announce it, take no action, and then change my mind?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You tapped your lands, but you didn't announce it, and you haven't cast anything. I call this &quot;fiddling&quot; with lands. There is nothing in the comprehensive rules, the regular REL rules, or the competitive REL rules that address this. Some unqualified sources on the Internet say you can take it back. Others say you cannot. In general, if the MTG rules do not permit something, it is not permitted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; know is that MTGO allows you to &quot;undo&quot; your land activations, and that top 8 at Grand Prix's and feature matches from StarCityGames tournaments streaming on Twitch.tv have all shown untapping of lands without a judge intervening. In other words, even the top level judges allow untapping lands, as long as you haven't taken any action since you tapped it and nothing triggered when you tapped it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T16:41:08.617" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T16:41:08.617" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15426" CreationDate="2014-05-01T16:03:06.980" Score="2" ViewCount="13611" Body="&lt;p&gt;Full disclosure, I am relatively new to the game and haven't experienced all the mechanics yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple premade decks in the Born of the Gods set that use Tribute. We're a little hazy on how exactly it works...Is it simply a yes/no answer to paying tribute from the target player? Or is there a mana/health/whatever cost as well? It seems like some of the pay/don't pay choices are total no brainers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7504" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T22:29:31.747" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T20:08:04.277" Title="How does the Tribute mechanic work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15424" CreationDate="2014-05-01T16:10:49.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a creature with tribute enters the battlefield, an opponent of your choice &quot;may&quot; place +1/+1 counters on the creature. The &quot;may&quot; means that he has 2 choices: do it, or don't do it. There is no &quot;overpay&quot;, and no health or mana costs associated with this. Just read the reminder text literally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that it is not a &quot;target&quot; opponent. Tribute doesn't target, meaning you could choose an opponent with hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/bornofthegodsmechanics#anchor2&quot;&gt;Born of the Gods new mechanics notes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As Pharagax Giant enters the battlefield, you choose an opponent. That opponent then decides whether to &quot;pay tribute&quot; by having Pharagax Giant enter the battlefield with two +1/+1 counters on it. If he or she does, then that's it—you've got a bigger Giant. If he or she decides not to pay tribute, then Pharagax Giant's enters-the-battlefield ability will trigger instead. Either way, it's good for you—and in the meantime, you get to watch your opponent sweat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here's the comprehensive rules on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.103. Tribute&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.103a Tribute is a static ability that functions as the creature with tribute is entering the battlefield. &quot;Tribute N&quot; means &quot;As this creature enters the battlefield, choose an opponent. That player may have this creature enter the battlefield with an additional N +1/+1 counters on it.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.103b Objects with tribute have triggered abilities that check &quot;if tribute wasn’t paid.&quot; This condition is true if the opponent chosen as a result of the tribute ability didn’t have the creature enter the battlefield with +1/+1 counters as specified by the creature’s tribute ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T16:10:49.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15424" CreationDate="2014-05-01T16:18:28.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following is a how a card with Tribute would play out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNessian%20Demolok%5d&quot;&gt;Nessian Demolok&lt;/a&gt; and place it on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nessian Demolok resolves. &lt;em&gt;During resolution&lt;/em&gt;, the following occurs.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nessian Demolok begins resolving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You ask an me to make the choice for tribute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I choose to deny tribute.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nessian Demolok enters the battlefield without counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nessian Demolok's ability triggers, but it doesn't go on the stack just yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nession Demolok finishes resolving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A spell finished resolving, so you, the active player, receive priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As soon as you receive priority, you choose a target to destroy and then place Nessian Demoloks triggered ability on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability resolves, and my permanent is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you communicate whether you are paying tribute is not written in the rules. It's just a yes or no question that you are obligated to answer while the spell is resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works about the same in multiplayer games. The player who controls Demolok gets to choose which opponent pays tribute (or not), and there are more passes of priority in between (everyone at the table must pass before anything can resolve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T20:08:04.277" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T20:08:04.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15406" CreationDate="2014-05-01T20:00:38.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I received an answer on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/cardgames/comments/24el16/marriages_in_schnapsensixtysix/ch6wgtg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;/r/cardgames&lt;/a&gt;. It's from David Parlett's Oxford A to Z of Card Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend David Parlett's Oxford A to Z of Card Games. Here's my understanding from his book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You lead one member of the happy couple, reveal the other (but hold onto it), and play the trick as normal. In your example, you would take the Jack, and also score for the King or the Queen you chose to play on top of the marriage points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key I was missing was the &amp;quot;hold on to it&amp;quot; part, even after the marriage happens and points are awarded (assuming you took a trick). This takes care of the problem I was having where my hand would have one less card than my opponent's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7497" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T16:29:17.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15419" CreationDate="2014-05-01T20:24:26.263" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Patters says, you should not worry about cards in Standard getting &lt;strong&gt;banned&lt;/strong&gt;. From 1996 to 2014 (18 years), there have been a grand total of 27 cards banned from Standard/Type 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;January 1996&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Twist&quot;&gt;Mind Twist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;December 1996 (note: all cards banned here were restricted prior to this date; after this date, Standard has no restricted cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Black%20Vise&quot;&gt;Black Vise&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hymn%20to%20Tourach&quot;&gt;Hymn to Tourach&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Tax&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strip%20Mine&quot;&gt;Strip Mine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;June 1997&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zuran%20Orb&quot;&gt;Zuran Orb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;December 1998&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tolarian%20Academy&quot;&gt;Tolarian Academy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windfall&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March 1999&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dream%20Halls&quot;&gt;Dream Halls&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Earthcraft&quot;&gt;Earthcraft&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fluctuator&quot;&gt;Fluctuator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Petal&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memory%20Jar&quot;&gt;Memory Jar&lt;/a&gt; (note: retroactively added mid-March)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Recurring%20Nightmare&quot;&gt;Recurring Nightmare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Spiral&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;June 1999&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Over%20Matter&quot;&gt;Mind Over Matter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;June 2004&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullclamp&quot;&gt;Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt; (note: Skullclamp in its final form was not properly tested)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March 2005 (note: five of the lands here are identical save for type of mana produced)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Den&quot;&gt;Ancient Den&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbound%20Ravager&quot;&gt;Arcbound Ravager&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disciple%20of%20the%20Vault&quot;&gt;Disciple of the Vault&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Citadel&quot;&gt;Darksteel Citadel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Great%20Furnace&quot;&gt;Great Furnace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seat%20of%20the%20Synod&quot;&gt;Seat of the Synod&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tree%20of%20Tales&quot;&gt;Tree of Tales&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vault%20of%20Whispers&quot;&gt;Vault of Whispers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;June 2011&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20the%20Mind%20Sculptor&quot;&gt;Jace, the Mind Sculptor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stoneforge%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Stoneforge Mystic&lt;/a&gt; (exception: the &amp;quot;War of Attrition&amp;quot; precon contained two SFMs, and was legal for play if the decklist was unchanged)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as reprints go, there is no perfectly accurate way to predict what will be reprinted and what won't. &lt;strong&gt;In general:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's been reprinted before, the chances that it will be reprinted again are higher. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Angel&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's a popular card and it can fit in a future set, the chances that it will be reprinted are higher. (The Titan cycle from M11 was popular, and although some were &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; powerful, they were reprinted in M12.) This is especially true if the card resonates with the plane represented by the block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Future set,&amp;quot; however, may be a number of years down the road (such as the shockland cycle, printed in Ravnica block in 2005, and then again in Return to Ravnica block in 2012).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the card is an &amp;quot;answer&amp;quot; to a mechanic or theme present in a future set, the answer card is more likely to be reprinted, especially if it can fit into the set's theme. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Grudge&quot;&gt;Ancient Grudge&lt;/a&gt; is a good example from Time Spiral and Innistrad.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;However, it's also likely that a functional reprint will be made instead. (Compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unravel%20the%20Aether&quot;&gt;Unravel the Aether&lt;/a&gt; to its predecessor &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deglamer&quot;&gt;Deglamer&lt;/a&gt;, or compare &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Transguild%20Promenade&quot;&gt;Transguild Promenade&lt;/a&gt; to its predecessor &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rupture%20Spire&quot;&gt;Rupture Spire&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the card is a core mechanic for part of the color wheel, there's a good chance that it will see the light of day again. White is probably going to have life gain and weenies. Blue is probably going to have card draw and counterspells. Black is probably going to have creature removal and reanimation. Red is probably going to have burn and artifact removal. Green is probably going to have beatsticks and artifact/enchantment removal. The more &amp;quot;pure&amp;quot; the card is to such effects, the better chances it has; something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Concentrate&quot;&gt;Concentrate&lt;/a&gt; has better chances at a reprint than &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rhystic%20Scrying&quot;&gt;Rhystic Scrying&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Along a similar vein, a mono-colored card has better chances than a multicolored card. Outside multicolor-focused blocks like Return to Ravnica, multicolor cards are generally special in some way, such as the gods in Theros block, not reprints.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mutavault and Sphinx's Revelation are &lt;em&gt;unlikely&lt;/em&gt; to be reprinted in M15 or &amp;quot;Huey&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Dewey&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Louie&amp;quot; (the code names for the next three expansion sets). Unless we return to Lorwyn or have a tribal-heavy block (which we just recently had with Innistrad), I would even say a Mutavault reprint is unlikely in &amp;quot;Blood&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Sweat&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Tears&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Lock&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Stock&amp;quot;/&amp;quot;Barrel&amp;quot;. Sphinx's Revelation is a fairly unique combination of effects (there are only 7 cards that I find removtely similar, and several of those aren't W/U) as well as being tied in with sphinxes, which aren't super common across the multiverse (while one of the Ravnican guilds is &lt;em&gt;lead&lt;/em&gt; by a powerful sphinx). I would not expect a reprint of Sphinx's Revelation in Standard until and unless we have a Ravnica 3: The Movie the Book the Show. (It's possible we may see it in a set or precon not in Standard, such as the Commander decks or in Conspiracy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we do ever return to Ravnica again, it will &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be until after &amp;quot;Barrel&amp;quot;; Mark Rosewater said that revisiting the plane for a third time was not in the five-year plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-05-01T20:29:44.660" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T20:29:44.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15350" CreationDate="2014-05-01T21:32:20.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few games come to mind as readily modifiable for blind play, and a few as playable out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Out of the box&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Versions of Othello have been released in the past with raised lines defining the spaces; the pieces in that are slightly concave on the black side, and flat on the white. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Othello Classic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; appears to be the current title for this, but I can't tell if it has the standard pieces. (Note that the Travel version has double-flat pieces, while many versions of the full size have simple printed grids, not raised.) Maxiaids.com has a version using rods with a brad in one end, rather than discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mancala as a 2-player game can be played out of the box with only minor issues - the typical rule of not touching others' pits must be ignored for the blind player. Mancala as a series game, as presented in &amp;quot;capture the pit&amp;quot; play in the Oh-wah-ree version by 3M, has issues in multi-player (marbles being used to denote who owns which pit), but one player could substitute beads, another use empty pits, etc, allowing for even multi-player play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominoes. While a traditional &amp;quot;family game&amp;quot;, it's actually got some strategy, and is inherently blind-friendly with standard pieces. One blind acquaintance has burned out on it because it was the only blind-friendly game at school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rumikub. Some sets are deeply embossed; with one of these, the blind player may be able to feel the numbers without modifications. We had to go to using face down pile on the table instead of drawing from a bag because my set was deeply enough embossed for me to tell what I was drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mah Jongg can be played once the blind player learns the piece faces - a larger set is better. Most sets use engraved images (the others are cards). Since even the scoring is done using dot-marked sticks, it's just a matter of learning curve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Score Sheet modifications only&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catan Dice - the dice are only slightly embossed in the wood dice versions, but more deeply so in the plastic dice versions. The score sheet can be replaced with a braille linear matt, and markers for showing what's been taken. Coins can be used for score keeping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Modifications - add texture&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Travel Blokus, with the smooth pieces, can be modified by careful drilling. Drill holes through one color, in every square of every piece of that color. You now have a tactile version. The blind player can feel the board state, the pieces aren't likely to move, and there is no information loss nor gain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard Blokus - if you have two identically sized sets, one with the pieces with hollows, and one with the smooth sided pieces, you can swap a color out in the process. If you have a single smooth-faced set, drill out one color as for travel. If you have a hollowed set, fill the hollows with glue. Or use a texturing on one color. The blind player can feel the alternate face, but can't ID the other colors as separate, but their own move is only trivially hampered by playing this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hive - Since the pieces are not randomized at all, and the images are depressed, only a tiny modification is needed - some means of telling one color from the other; texturing is suggested. It would be best to play on a slightly tacky surface, such as a warm vinyl placemat or a non-slip cabinet liner, so the pieces don't readily slide when touched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kids of Catan - you need to texture the player pieces, but that's it. The die is pipped, the commodities can be told by shape, and one can readily play ignoring the slot colors (and in fact, doing so makes the game far more tactical, as does allowing movement either direction). One could add braille labels to the slots, as well, and play the game unmodified. It's simple, but with allowing movement either direction, not totally inane, and very pretty for the sighted folks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;major modding...&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cathedral, as a game, should be playable, except that the pieces don't lock to the board. This can be fixed with drilling holes in the board, and adding not-quite-flush nails to the piece bottoms to lock them in. This also turns it into a decent back-seat-of-the-car or on-the-bus version for longer trips. for totally sightless play, one should texture one set of pieces, as well - sand glued to the roofs is practical and pretty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chess can be modded by use of a board with raised square edges and two different sets of pieces with different shapes, and again, ignoring the no-touch rule. Alternatively, the board can be drilled, and pins inserted into the pieces' bases, and one side textured, just like Cathedral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diplomacy - the hardest part is not knocking the pieces around. The solution? use a thin bead of caulk to define the board space's edges, braille label the spaces by name, and use distinctive shaped or textured pieces for each player. One might also texture (with blue sand) the seas. For example, one player might be full height cubes, another half height, a third half height textured, a 4th using cylinders full height, and 5th with half-height cylinders, and a 6th and 7th using full and half-height triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Texturing pieces&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many games pieces can be textured. For games like Hive, where the pieces are bakelite, or blokus, where they are polycarbonate, and shape determines piece type, one can texture the surface with only minor cosmetic issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a belt sander available, use a medium grit belt and a VERY light touch. Using double stick tape, secure the pieces to a piece of scrap board, and clamp that to the table. Make a single pass with the belt sander on low speed in order to create furrows on the surface. Flip, and repeat for the other side for blokus pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wish to go the glue and sand route, apply a very thin layer of glue to the face to be textured, then press that face into a bowl of sand, remove, and let dry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Braille Drilling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A number of games using bakelite or plastic tiles can have braille drilled in; some blind folks find this acceptable, others don't. If used, set your stops on a drill press to prevent drilling completely through, and mark all the dots first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Brailling of cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most card games can be done in braille - either by directing brailling the cards, or by braille stickering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few have been done by punching holes in the cards, but this marks the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-01T21:32:20.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15431" CreationDate="2014-05-02T01:43:06.753" Score="4" ViewCount="7513" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have a god in the battlefield for more than one turn. And this turn I summon a creature that &quot;completes&quot; my devotion to the god. Can the god attack this turn? or it is affected by the summon sickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7335" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T13:27:42.670" Title="Gods have summon sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:22:13.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15430" CreationDate="2014-05-02T02:00:32.443" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The god can attack the turn it becomes a creature, as long as you had it for more than 1 turn like you said. Summoning sickness only affects a creature if it entered the battlefield since the beginning of your turn, and it did not enter the battlefield upon meeting its devotion requirement, it simply changed to a creature. This won't trigger &quot;when enters the battlefield&quot; triggers either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The god creature HAS been under your control since the beginning of your turn; it just wasn't a creature before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T12:41:03.633" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T12:41:03.633" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-02T03:10:31.837" Score="1" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are these board games considered as gambling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A.  Checkers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B.  Four in a row?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C.  Othello?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:  Would it be appropriate to allow children (ages &amp;lt; 18) to play these board games?  (On the computer or tablet devices, etc.) &lt;s&gt;Do they lend themselves to gambling (on line or otherwise) like poker?&lt;/s&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7510" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T04:33:12.953" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T04:33:12.953" Title="Are these board games considered as gambling games?" Tags="|checkers|othello|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-05-02T15:05:04.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15432" CreationDate="2014-05-02T03:34:31.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a lawyer, and have experience only in Ontario, but under Ontario law wagering on &lt;em&gt;games of skill&lt;/em&gt; is not gambling. In a well-known case from the 1960's or early 1970's, in which the St. Clair Bridge Studio was defending itself against charges of running a gambling house, barrister and bridge player &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cbf.ca/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=306%3ahall-of-fame-member-2&amp;amp;catid=150%3ahall-of-fame-members&amp;amp;Itemid=232&quot;&gt;Eric Murray&lt;/a&gt; in his winning defence argued that bridge is a game of chance &lt;em&gt;only as played by the justices of the Ontario Superior Court, in chambers&lt;/em&gt;. This despite the obvious fact that there clearly is a substantial element of luck in the cards dealt to each side on every particular deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As all of Chequers, Othello and Four in a Row are games with absolutely no element of chance whatever, and perfect information, under Ontario Law I believe none of them would be regarded as &lt;em&gt;games of chance&lt;/em&gt; for which wagering would be prohibited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T03:34:31.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4331" CreationDate="2014-05-02T04:16:49.607" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I know...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mage Slayer's ability will go into the stack to check the creature's power, then yout opponent youu put Mystifying Maze's ability on top so it resolves before. When Maze's ability resolves the creature will be exiled and, then when Mage Slayer resolves it will check the creature's power and it will 0 since there is no creature equipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to the negatives I received (since I can't comment).&#xA;Since Mage Slayer states:&quot;Whenever equipped creature attacks, it deals damage equal to its power to defending player.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature deals damage, not Mage Slayer. So... How can a creature that has been removed from the board deal damage? It's the same as saying that if you use Prey Upon on your creature and then blinking it until next end step, it will deal damage to the opponent creature and not take any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7511" LastEditorUserId="7511" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T14:29:34.813" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T14:29:34.813" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-02T05:04:40.540" Score="4" ViewCount="2381" Body="&lt;p&gt;You start flipping cards over one at a time and holding them in one hand. When you have two cards of the same suit that are separated by two other cards (e.g. &lt;strong&gt;4♣&lt;/strong&gt; 2♦ 7♥ &lt;strong&gt;10♣&lt;/strong&gt;), you discard the middle two. When two cards of the same value are separated by two other cards (e.g. &lt;strong&gt;4♣&lt;/strong&gt; 2♦ 7♥ &lt;strong&gt;4♥&lt;/strong&gt;), you discard all four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is neither Accordion nor Royal Marriage, but bears similarities to both. Somebody else &lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090416090812AAHSuAk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;asked this same question&lt;/a&gt; on Yahoo Answers five years ago and the response was unsatisfactory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone can identify this game, I would also like to know what happens when you finish with two cards left: do you win, as in Royal Marriage, or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7512" LastActivityDate="2021-02-24T14:49:33.580" Title="What is the name of this solitaire card game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15069" CreationDate="2014-05-02T10:01:34.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As CrystalBlue commented, the latest copy of the FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt;) addresses this (page 2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;“If successful...”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever there is an “If successful...” effect tied to the outcome &#xA;  of a run, the run itself must have been successful against the &#xA;  specified server(s), if applicable. If the Runner initiates a run &#xA;  against the specified server but ends the run on a different &#xA;  server, the “If successful...” effect does not resolve when the run &#xA;  is successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: The Runner plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Demolition Run&lt;/a&gt; on HQ. During the &#xA;  run, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02073&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bullfrog&lt;/a&gt; moves the Runner to a remote server. Even though &#xA;  the run is successful, the Runner cannot use the “If successful...” &#xA;  effect on Demolition Run because the run was not successful &#xA;  against R&amp;amp;D or HQ. If the Bullfrog moved the Runner to R&amp;amp;D, &#xA;  the ability would trigger when the run was successful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the “If successful...” effect does not specify a server, then it &#xA;  does not matter if the attacked server is changed during the run &#xA;  ,and the ability resolves as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, &lt;strong&gt;if a run ability specifies a server (or servers), the &quot;if successful&quot; effect only triggers if the run is actually successful on one of those servers&lt;/strong&gt;. As the example in the FAQ mentions, it does not need to necessarily be the actual server the run was initiated on though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Account Siphon and Maker's Eye, if the run does not finish on HQ and R&amp;amp;D respectively, the special ability is wasted (and the run essentially just becomes a normal run).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T10:01:34.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15430" CreationDate="2014-05-02T13:22:20.130" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another user submitted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/15431/6692&quot;&gt;correct answer&lt;/a&gt; that is easy to read and I just wanted to provide a bunch of examples of when it might be relevant. &lt;strong&gt;Everything&lt;/strong&gt; that has entered the battlefield since the beginning of your most recent turn has summoning sickness. That includes, but is not limited to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lands&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; and then use its second ability, it will not be able to attack that turn unless it somehow gains haste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oddly enough, if you play Mutavault and then turn it into a creature, it becomes affected by summoning sickness and can no longer use its first ability to tap for mana. It always had summoning sickness, but only became affected by it when it became a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Planeswalkers&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGideon%2c%20Champion%20of%20Justice%5d&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt; and then activate its second ability, it cannot attack. That's actually a ruling on the card if you click the link.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Artifacts&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRakdos%20Keyrune%5d&quot;&gt;Rakdos Keyrune&lt;/a&gt; and immediately activate it, you'll no longer be able to tap it for mana, and you won't be able to attack with it either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even creatures with haste have summoning sickness. If the creature somehow lost haste, summoning sickness would again affect your creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T13:27:42.670" CommentCount="8" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-05-02T13:22:20.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-02T15:46:30.780" Score="15" ViewCount="5967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dominaria introduced &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMerfolk%20Trickster%5d&quot;&gt;Merfolk Trickster&lt;/a&gt;, which causes a creature to lose all abilities, without setting a power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if a card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTarmogoyf%5d&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; loses all abilities? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would Tarmagoyf become a 0/0 in this case, because a number not defined is treated as 0? Or would it possibly be a 0/1, because the printed toughness on the card is &quot;*+1&quot;, and only the &quot;&lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt;&quot; part is undefined? What about a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBoneyard%20Wurm%5d&quot;&gt;Boneyard Wurm&lt;/a&gt;, would it just become 0/0 (and thus die)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a possible contradiction between the comprehensive rules and the Gatherer rulings. The Gatherer rulings say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the target creature has power and toughness written as &lt;em&gt;/&lt;/em&gt; with an ability that defines its power and toughness, it’s 0/0 when it loses all abilities. &lt;strong&gt;If its power and toughness are written as */*+1, it’s 0/1&lt;/strong&gt;, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 208.5 deals with this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;208.5. If a creature somehow has no value for its power, its power is 0. The same is true for toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that a Tarmagoyf that loses all abilities has no toughness defined. It's toughness is written as &quot;*/1+*&quot;, which according to 208.2, its toughness should be defined by its abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while it is clear that a */* creature will be a 0/0 if it loses all abilities; what happens to a */*+1? Is it 0/0 or 0/1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I find it interesting, though not likely relevant, that Tarmogoyf is written &quot;*/1+*&quot; (with the 1 first), while the Gatherer ruling references cards that are &quot;*/*+1&quot; (with the * first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2018-11-11T05:19:06.233" LastActivityDate="2018-11-11T08:05:20.670" Title="What happens if a creature has no toughness defined?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15438" CreationDate="2014-05-02T15:53:11.397" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is hypothetical and not covered by the rules. All &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B%22loses%20all%20abilities%22%5D&quot;&gt;current cards which cause a creature to lose all abilities&lt;/a&gt; also set the power/toughness of the creature, or cause it to no longer be a creature making the power/toughness irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a safe bet that  &lt;em&gt;loses all abilities&lt;/em&gt; cards are designed that way to avoid this conundrum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T16:14:10.877" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T16:14:10.877" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15435" CreationDate="2014-05-02T16:47:11.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like a variant of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bvssolitaire.com/rules/push-pin.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Push-Pin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can eliminate a card or a pair of adjacent cards between two cards of the same suit or rank. Select a card or a pair of cards you want to discard by clicking on them. The overall effect of successive plays is that length of the layout gets shorter and shorter. If the length is reduced to two cards the game is won.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The differences I see are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Push-Pin, you can remove two &lt;em&gt;or one&lt;/em&gt; cards between cards of the same rank or suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Push-Pin, if you don't remove all four cards when matching cards between cards of the same rank.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In your game, the cards are flipped in your hand as you go, not all at once, so there's no strategy required.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you can remove all four cards, it is possible to eliminate all cards in your described game. As there's no strategy required to &quot;win&quot; (the outcome is predetermined by the order of the cards) I don't think it matters which rule to win you use. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T16:47:11.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15445" CreationDate="2014-05-02T16:52:47.193" Score="3" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player using Kyra didn't have a weapon or spell in his hand to help defeat the Hill Giant that came up during his Explore action. Valeros, in a separate location, played a Shortbow and a Heavy Crossbow to add two dice to the combat check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this allowed? The rules state you &lt;em&gt;can't play more than one card of the same type during a check&lt;/em&gt;; Kyra's player's argument was that it should be allowed, because it technically wasn't Valeros' combat check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T20:42:33.817" Title="Can players at other locations play multiple cards to help you in combat?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15444" CreationDate="2014-05-02T20:21:04.957" Score="4" ViewCount="2897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I control a planeswalker with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Confiscate&quot;&gt;Confiscate&lt;/a&gt;? Is a planeswalker a permanent that can be the target of Confiscate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7335" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-02T20:24:16.713" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T20:25:09.107" Title="Can I control a planeswalker with Confiscate?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15443" CreationDate="2014-05-02T20:25:09.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All cards and tokens on the battlefield are permanents, including Planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it’s moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.4. There are five permanent types: artifact, creature, enchantment, land, and planeswalker. Instant and sorcery cards can’t enter the battlefield and thus can’t be permanents. Some tribal cards can enter the battlefield and some can’t, depending on their other card types. See section 3, “Card Types.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T20:25:09.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15441" CreationDate="2014-05-02T20:42:33.817" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After thoroughly searching, I think I found the answer in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizo/faq/v5748nruor1gk#v5748eaic9ral&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ's&lt;/a&gt; about encountering cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player may play no more than 1 card of each type during each step; for example, no one player may play more than 1 blessing while attempting a check, though multiple players could each play 1 blessing during that check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in other words, no. Valeros could play 1 weapon to help, but not two. The rule is regardless of who is having the encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-02T20:42:33.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15446" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T17:59:36.130" Score="2" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thorougly enjoy playing the Milton Bradley game &lt;em&gt;Crack the Case&lt;/em&gt; with friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jG3Ym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For smaller groups (up to 5 people), I find that without teams or keeping track of time or points is already more fun than playing according to the rules. For years, I've played simply by taking turns playing the storyteller. Especially if children are joining in, we'll award the storyteller role to the person who asked the &quot;bingo!&quot; question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bigger groups, however, I've found that this style is too chaotic, and I'd prefer to go back to more of a team-based strategy. The conventional rules literally have one team sitting around waiting as only one of the members play the role of storyteller. Does anybody have any suggestions for increasing group engagement while playing in groups of six or more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="81" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-23T15:44:00.710" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T15:44:00.710" Title="Increasing engagement in Crack the Case" Tags="|house-rules|crack-the-case|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15451" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:13:09.783" Score="10" ViewCount="1536" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that a player can never build two identical structures - with the same name/illustration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both &quot;Trading post&quot; cards are called just &quot;Trading post&quot; on the &quot;Forum&quot; card (which could be build through chain construction), are they considered &lt;em&gt;identical&lt;/em&gt;, according to the &quot;same name&quot; rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7521" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T09:01:16.903" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T02:07:01.343" Title="Are &quot;East trading post&quot; and &quot;West trading post&quot; considered identical structures?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:15:25.510" Score="3" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this came up in a game I was playing today. I had an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; with enough devotion that it was a creature, and I cast another (it makes sense, I swear). I chose to sacrifice the newcomer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will trigger the remaining Athreos and I will return the dead god to my hand unless my opponent pays three, correct? Athreos was a creature when it died, and remained so after because its type-setting ability only applies on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T12:10:16.487" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T12:10:16.487" Title="Gods dying and the legends rule" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-legendary-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15448" CreationDate="2014-05-03T18:34:46.663" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the ability of the God that remains on the battlefield will trigger. When you play the second copy of Athreos, you will control 2 of them. Then, when state based effects are checked, by rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/State-based_actions&quot;&gt;704.5k&lt;/a&gt;, you have to choose one to keep and move the other to the graveyard. This triggers the ability of the one still on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T13:33:24.337" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T13:33:24.337" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15447" CreationDate="2014-05-03T19:30:47.783" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The East and West Trading Posts are considered separate structures because they have a different name and illustration. Using the short form on the Forum card indicates that either the East or West Trading Post can be the base for chain construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-05-03T19:30:47.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15453" CreationDate="2014-05-03T20:06:53.777" Score="10" ViewCount="1394" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the last province is acquired can the person finish their turn or is the game immediately over? It seems like the rules dictate that a player may always finish their turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7281" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:21:50.047" Title="Dominion Last Province" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15452" CreationDate="2014-05-03T21:06:41.393" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always finish your turn. Whether you picked up that last Province in the action phase or the buy phase, you'll be able to keep playing until you're done with your turn, possibly picking up another victory card or two. Note that the only cards you can possibly find useful at this point are cards that give you victory points. (If you have Gardens, then you might buy any old cards just to make your deck bigger. Similarly, you might pick up Silvers if you have a Feodum.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T15:30:14.170" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T15:30:14.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15457" CreationDate="2014-05-03T22:34:43.503" Score="3" ViewCount="7968" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have shroud or hexproof, because I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ivory%20Mask&quot;&gt;Ivory Mask&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Witchbane%20Orb&quot;&gt;Witchbane Orb&lt;/a&gt;, am I immune to something which affects &amp;quot;defending player,&amp;quot; such as a creature with Annihilator, or will I still have to sac, since it doesn't say &amp;quot;target opponent&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194908&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ulamog's Crusher&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Annihilator 2 (Whenever this creature attacks, defending player sacrifices two permanents.)&#xA;Ulamog's Crusher attacks each turn if able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7280" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T13:39:28.337" Title="Does something which affects &quot;defending player&quot; target that player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20645" CreationDate="2014-05-03T22:49:34.830" Score="2" ViewCount="94" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://mobileframezero.com/mfz/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mobile Frame Zero &lt;em&gt;Rapid Attack&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, page 64:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mobile frame with neither direct fire nor artillery range weapon systems get 1 green 8-sided die as well. This doesn't count as a system and can't be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from page 65:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to its frame and systems, a mobile frame can also carry up to 3 single-shot rockets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A single-shot rocket provides 1 red d8 at direct fire range, once only. Discard it after you use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from page 123:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a mobile frame takes damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each damage it takes, it loses one system. Its owner chooses which system it loses. Pop it off the frame and drop it on the field. Since that system's gone, it doesn't provide its die or dice in any future turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads to the following questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I make a melee mech with all of its red dice devoted to a claw attack (hand-to-hand range), can I put a rocket on my mech and still get the green d8 movement bonus? Even when I'm firing my rocket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If my mech &lt;em&gt;had&lt;/em&gt; a gun, but it got blown off so now it doesn't anymore, do I get the green d8 movement bonus for my last big dramatic charge? Or am I a sitting duck on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:28:38.323" Title="Do rockets or destroyed systems count for the green d8?" Tags="|mobile-frame-zero|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15454" CreationDate="2014-05-03T23:56:55.017" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't target. You are not immune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; isn't used, it doesn't target. Keep in mind that some keywords (e.g. &amp;quot;Equip&amp;quot;) use the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; in the abilities they represent, and the rules for casting an Aura use the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're asking about Annihilator, so let's look up what abilities it represents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.85a Annihilator is a triggered ability. “Annihilator N” means “Whenever this creature attacks, defending player sacrifices N permanents.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it doesn't use the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;. As such, it does not target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you're interested, the following is the exhaustive list of what targets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1a An instant or sorcery spell is targeted if its spell ability identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1b Aura spells are always targeted. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1c An activated ability is targeted if it identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1d A triggered ability is targeted if it identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1e Some keyword abilities, such as equip and provoke, represent targeted activated or triggered abilities. In those cases, the phrase “target [something]” appears in the rule for that keyword ability rather than in the ability itself. (The keyword’s reminder text will often contain the word “target.”) See rule 702, “Keyword Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T00:02:10.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3365" CreationDate="2014-05-04T15:37:22.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The logic on this is very simple, &quot;Throne Room&quot; causes the action to take place twice. That means that &quot;Possession&quot; will occur once, resolve all the way through the first turn, then it will occur a second time, as if you had played another copy of the card that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7528" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T15:37:22.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15435" CreationDate="2014-05-04T15:47:58.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play this sometimes and the person who taught me called it &quot;One-handed Solitaire&quot;. I don't know if that's the real name, but that's what I've always called it and people seem to know what I'm talking about if I ever do mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7528" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T15:47:58.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2694" CreationDate="2014-05-04T16:11:20.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way that you phrase the question makes me think that you misinterpreted the rules for how Blood works. Blood is not spent by cards like &quot;Brush Aside&quot;. The &quot;for every-&quot; means that you just count the amount of blood. Blood is resource and you need to make sure that if you need them, you have them. Constantly using &quot;Power Returns&quot; will make it hard for you to use other abilities effectively, but it's a nice card to have when you are running low on options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7528" LastEditorUserId="7528" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T17:36:54.373" LastActivityDate="2014-05-04T17:36:54.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15465" CreationDate="2014-05-04T21:02:13.860" Score="6" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick Diplomacy question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a country has had all armies and fleets destroyed but still have a home supply centre that hasn't been taken are they still in the game ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe yes but not sure. Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7530" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T08:38:24.520" Title="All armies and fleets destroyed - Still in Game?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15464" CreationDate="2014-05-04T22:04:29.620" Score="13" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion, what happens when you &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Ambassador&quot;&gt;Ambassador&lt;/a&gt; (Seaside) a &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Hovel&quot;&gt;Hovel&lt;/a&gt; (Dark Ages)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-04T23:29:05.673" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T00:08:20.137" Title="What happens if you ambassador a hovel?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15463" CreationDate="2014-05-04T23:31:13.437" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing happens at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a (likely unofficial) rules clarification on &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Ambassador&quot;&gt;Ambassador&lt;/a&gt;'s Dominion Strategy wiki:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you reveal a card which is not in the Supply, such as Spoils, Madman, Mercenary, or Shelters, Ambassador does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same article also quotes an official FAQ clarification:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the pile for the chosen card runs out, some players may not get one; cards are given out in turn order starting with the next player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Hovels &lt;em&gt;are not present in the Supply&lt;/em&gt;, you cannot return your hovels there. Further, nobody can gain them: since they aren't available in the Supply, they are effectively perpetually out of stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T00:08:20.137" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T00:08:20.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15462" CreationDate="2014-05-05T08:38:24.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quote below is part of a rule.&#xA;So yes, I would play it like you suggest, because your situation matches this rule in the strictest sense (one center versus zero units).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If he/she has more centers than units, he/she may build units by placing them, one in each unoccupied supply center, in his/her home country only (provided that such supply centers are still under his control).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T08:38:24.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11479" CreationDate="2014-05-05T09:42:46.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card counters exploit a flaw in the game &lt;em&gt;implementation&lt;/em&gt; which is not actually part of the &lt;em&gt;rules&lt;/em&gt; of the game. The rules of blackjack say nothing about dealing multiple hands from the same pre-shuffled stack - but that's exactly what makes card counting possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This flaw (and thus card counting) can actually be neutralized in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffling manually after each hand - but that slows down the game and thus reduces casino winnings on the game that already gives them a rather small house edge. Not gonna happen.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://casinogambling.about.com/od/blackjack/a/shuffler.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Continuous shuffling machines&lt;/a&gt; - but players and dealers hate those, claim that they destroy the atmosphere, etc. Some casinos use them, but most seem to prefer making a fuss about card counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2072" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T09:42:46.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15477" CreationDate="2014-05-05T13:38:12.217" Score="5" ViewCount="7187" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'd like to introduce my son to a basic card game like Pokemon since he loves the creatures, etc. When I go to a store and look at all the 'starter' decks, and packs, etc I'm a little confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to buy and start into the game with him? Just buy a basic starter kit at the store and go? I would need something with 'how-to-play' instructions as well as I've never played it before either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="795" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T13:07:28.117" Title="Best way to get into Pokemon?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2014-05-05T13:54:29.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the definition of a starter kit, a kit used to start you playing the game. So yes get a starter kit. Get two. This way you have a decent card base and can play with him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pokegym.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?5-Pokemon-Trading-Card-Game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Also be aware that every good CCG these days has a good community behind it.&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-tcg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Furthermore the Pokemon CCG has a great website with rules downloads and other errata.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="7003" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T14:50:32.057" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T14:50:32.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15471" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:07:05.190" Score="10" ViewCount="9322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the new mechanic &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Strive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; from Journey into Nyx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I use the pay the strive cost to target the same object more than once with the spell, or can I only target any particular object once per card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EYBiw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T15:12:22.037" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T23:11:25.380" Title="Can I use strive to target the same object more than once?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:09:20.607" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to give a more general answer that applies to &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; trading card games. Find a local store that specializes in selling the cards and, even better, hosts tournaments. The people running the shop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know exactly what you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will teach you how to play.*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will occasionally give new players free starter packs or cards (mine does).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make far more money off of return customers than they ever will off of starter kits. They want you to come back, and so they generally won't try to screw you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is that they want you to get into the game, and you want their instructions, guidance, and merchandise. Don't go to Walmart and leave wondering whether you bought the right thing for your kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*Unless a tournament is running (and if they &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; busy they will usually tell you when to come back and enjoy a quiet game)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T13:07:28.117" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T13:07:28.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15469" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:18:06.453" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only target a creature once with a Strive spell. Taken from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/faq/jou&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Journey Into Nyx&lt;/a&gt; Release Notes, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can't choose&#xA;the same target more than once for a single strive spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those who want a more detailed explanation should continue reading. From rule 114.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.3 The same target can't be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; on a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Twinflame&quot;&gt;Twinflame&lt;/a&gt; has the following text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Strive&lt;/em&gt; — Twinflame costs 2R more to cast for each target beyond the&#xA;first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose any number of target creatures you control. For each of them, put a token that's a copy of that creature onto the battlefield. Those tokens have haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first occurrence of the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; is only there to define how much the spell costs. Per rules 114.1a-e, we only care about the phrase &lt;em&gt;target [something]&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part, &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Choose any number of target creatures&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, has one instance of the word target, and so you may not target the same creature twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T23:11:25.380" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T23:11:25.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15469" CreationDate="2014-05-05T15:19:43.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot target the same creature more than once with a strive card. The strive cards say &quot;Any number of target creatures..&quot; and rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Target&quot;&gt;114.3&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The same target can't be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word &quot;target&quot; on a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T15:19:43.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15474" CreationDate="2014-05-05T16:49:16.120" Score="2" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just starting to look into Android: Netrunner and encountered some &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/decklist/3840/killing-me-softly-a-paintbrush-a-dagger-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;decks&lt;/a&gt; that referenced a &quot;Gunblade&quot;. For context, I was looking at some Shaper decks that utilized Cloak/Dagger to break ICE. What is this actually referring to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this in some way a reference back to Dagger (ie: a blade)? If so, where does the &quot;gun&quot; portion of the reference come from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastEditorUserId="7531" LastEditDate="2014-05-05T17:00:48.797" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T13:25:23.057" Title="What does &quot;Gunblade&quot; refer to in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15473" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:27:07.700" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;gunblade&quot; combo refers to having both a &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04104&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silencer&lt;/a&gt; (the gun) + &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03042&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dagger&lt;/a&gt; (the blade) installed. Dagger is strength 0 killer unless a &lt;strong&gt;stealth&lt;/strong&gt; card provides a credit to boost it (+5 for each credit).  Currently, the only stealth cards available that interact with Dagger are Shaper's &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloak&lt;/a&gt; (which uses 1 MU, and whose recurring credit can be used on any Icebreaker), and Criminal's Silencer (which is hardware, but can only be used with Killers - and has high influence to splash at 3 pips).  Silencer is prefered over Cloak due to memory limits, which allows you to have multiple Silencers out to stack the ability while also leaving room for other programs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 3 Silencers in  a deck and lots of draw (e.g., via Diesel), the idea is that it should come up fairly consistently, and with all the Shaper tricks for tutoring it should be very easy to find/install Dagger. This is a very efficient combo for breaking most sentries, and can be enhanced by Tinkering/Paintbrush to interact with other types of ICE.  Another trick is to boost the strength of Dagger, either via Dinosaurus or Personal Touches to get it to 6+ strength using only 1 stealth credit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T13:25:23.057" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T13:25:23.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15515" CreationDate="2014-05-05T18:28:05.323" Score="3" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've asked this numerous places and no one can seem to agree or provide a completely sound explanation on it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a transport containing a unit that includes a KFF explodes, do the models inside benefit from the cover save? What about the models outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One explanation I've heard is that no one benefits from the save because as the process goes, the vehicle is wrecked, the models take hits/wounds, then are placed on the board. During the hit/wound process they are essentially &quot;in limbo&quot; (not on the board) so it's impossible to measure distance for the KFF and therefore it does not apply. While this is the only explanation I've heard that cites rules, it sounds like a cop-out technicality and therefore I don't completely agree with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other argument I've seen is that since the explosion isn't a shooting attack, models don't benefit from a cover save. I can agree with this more than the previous explanation, however the Ork FAQ details a situation where models can receive a cover save against a Deff Rolla (sp?) from a Battlewagon, which doesn't even happen in the shooting phase, therefore I think this argument isn't quite valid either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7313" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T23:54:14.570" Title="40k - Kustom Force Field and Vehicle Explosions" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15438" CreationDate="2014-05-05T19:15:50.530" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There have been no printed cards that remove static abilities without also setting the power and toughness (Snakeform, Ovinize) or changing the card to no longer be a creature (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=9846&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soul Sculptor&lt;/a&gt;) as stated in ghoppe's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tarmogoyf's ability which sets its power and toughness is in a special class of static abilities called &lt;code&gt;characteristic-defining abilities [CR 604.3]&lt;/code&gt; which function in all zones and even outside of the game. Any hypothetical card which exclusively removed static abilities would need a special ruling on its interaction with these type of abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Asterisks &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt; representing power and/or toughness are treated as 0 (even within calculations) in the case of static abilities that create replacement effects [208.2b] and also characteristic defining abilities when the value of the asterisk cannot be determined. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to these definitions, Gatherer also treats asterisks as zeros with constants added continuing to be added. To find Tarmogoyf in Gatherer by Power and Toughness alone, one must set the search parameters to Power=0 and Toughness=1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is reasonable to assume that any future ruling would be consistent with this and set completely undefined asterisks to zero, although this is just speculation on my part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume that the above proves true then we can make the following conclusions regarding the specific creatures mentioned in the question.&#xA; - If Tarmogoyf somehow lost his ability which defines the value of &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt;,&#xA;   then each &lt;code&gt;*&lt;/code&gt; would be taken as equal to 0 so that it would become&#xA;   0 / 1+0 =&gt; 0/1. &#xA; - Boneyard Wurm would become a 0/0 and thus under &lt;code&gt;[CR 704.5f]&lt;/code&gt;, be put&#xA;   into its owners graveyard. (Of course, once in the graveyard its power and toughness would be reset based on its characteristic-defining ability)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370689&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nightmare&lt;/a&gt; help clarify some of the interactions with asterisks in power/toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you control 0 swamps, then the Nightmare has 0 toughness and will be put into its owner's graveyard as a state-based action right before the next player gains priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nightmare's power and toughness changes as the number of Swamps you control changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The ability that defines Nightmare’s power and toughness works everywhere, not just on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[CR 208.2a] in reference to Asterisks in Power and Toughness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This ability functions everywhere, even outside the game. If the ability needs to use a number that can’t be determined, including inside a calculation, use 0 instead of that number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Lost Order of Jarkeld has power and toughness each equal to 1+*. It has the abilities “As Lost Order of Jarkeld enters the battlefield, choose an opponent” and “Lost Order of Jarkeld’s power and toughness are each equal to 1 plus the number of creatures the chosen player controls.” While Lost Order of Jarkeld isn’t on the battlefield, there won’t be a chosen player. Its power and toughness will each be equal to 1 plus 0, so it’s 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7533" LastEditorUserId="7533" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T02:47:42.600" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T02:47:42.600" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2014-05-05T20:33:13.450" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pokemon Company did a great job with creating Starter Kits; you get two 30-card decks which are already arranged in an order to help explain how the game works and all the nuances of the rules you'll possibly need to know to start playing. It's as simple as opening it up, each of you taking a deck, and simply reading the rules and following along with them; it's pretty much a live tutorial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've got the hang of how to play the game, I'd highly recommend going with Rusher's advice in the answer above. Usually, your FLGS (Friendly Local Game Store) or Comics &amp;amp; Cards shop will be more than happy to let you know what's the best premade deck to continue playing and what to look out for in booster packs, as well as advice on how to construct a deck of your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also get him interested in Magic: the Gathering, as from what I've seen, the rules are only a little more complicated than Pokemon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-05T20:33:13.450" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15499" CreationDate="2014-05-05T23:00:43.427" Score="5" ViewCount="2411" Body="&lt;p&gt;The now-defunct magazine &lt;em&gt;The Games Journal&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thegamesjournal.com/articles/SanJuanMods.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;has this to say about the Library building in San Juan&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Simply put, this card is too powerful, even in a four-player game. Even with a cost of 5, you should devote all your energies to building it the moment you draw one. Although it is (usually) not that useful when choosing Producer or Trader, the fact that it gives a 2-card advantage when choosing Builder or Prospector means that the other players must altering their actions to counter this advantage, much moreso than with any other card. In fact, the best way to address this, is to build your own Library but this requires that you actually draw one. Ultimately, this means that there's a great deal of luck in whether you draw one of them or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the library really this strong? You give up six cards to get the Library (the Library card itself plus the five other cards it costs to build it). If it gets you one extra card every turn, as you choose prospector or builder, it seems to me that it's generally going to take much of the rest of the game to pay for itself. I think that's not so different from other cards. For example, the Carpenter and Quarry cost three and four respectively and both give you one more card every time you build a violet building (in slightly different ways, much as the Library gives you one extra card in slightly different ways as Prospecter/Builder). Is the Library going to pay for itself so much more handsomely than those cards (or many other cards)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference the rules are available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamesfromeverywhere.com/download/game%20rules%20s/San-Juan-Game-Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7031" LastActivityDate="2018-01-28T14:21:28.193" Title="Is the Library strong in San Juan?" Tags="|san-juan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2014-05-06T00:08:56.047" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't gathered formal statistics, but I play San Juan quite regularly and anecdotally, I would say that not having the Library seems to significantly reduce your chances of winning the game. But on the hand, there are various other cards, including the Prefecture and Palace, whose absence also seems to significantly reduce your chances of winning. And I think that's the thing: part of the strategy for winning the game is to acquire &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; of these key cards. So from that point of view, I'm not sure that removing specifically the Library from the game is really warranted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1526" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T00:08:56.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15467" CreationDate="2014-05-06T00:23:29.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pooka, from the Pokemon fan site The Top Cut.net, has been running a series called &quot;building on a budget&quot;.  He creates realistic, competitive decks that will not cost too much money.  Even better, he takes the time to explain in a video why each card was included, the synergy between cards, and then he plays a game with his deck using Pokemon Online.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://thetopcut.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://thetopcut.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pokemon community is awesome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T09:06:53.703" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T09:06:53.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15482" CreationDate="2014-05-06T03:30:43.737" Score="7" ViewCount="1412" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perplexing%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Perplexing Chimera&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strionic%20Resonator&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. My opponent casts Shock. I choose to use my Strionic Resonator's activated ability to copy my Perplexing Chimera's triggered ability. What would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1861" LastEditorUserId="1861" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T14:30:53.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:46:56.607" Title="How does Perplexing Chimera work with Strionic Resonator?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15481" CreationDate="2014-05-06T03:42:47.370" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rulings on the gatherer page you linked for Strionic Resonator,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The source of the copy is the same as the source of the original ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you will have two triggered abilities on the stack, each of which has the effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you may exchange control of Perplexing Chimera and that spell. If you do, you may choose new targets for the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that, up to twice, you can exchange control of the Shock on the stack and your Perplexing Chimera, and you can choose new targets for the Shock each time. If you do it both times, then you will retain control of your Perplexing Chimera and you will have chosen the target for Shock, though your opponent will still control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the Comprehensive Rules section about &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Copying_objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;copying objects&lt;/a&gt; specifically says in rule 706.10b&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A copy of an ability has the same source as the original ability.&lt;/strong&gt; If the ability refers to its source by name, the copy refers to that same object and not to any other object with the same name. The copy is considered to be the same ability by effects that count how many times that ability has resolved during the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T20:46:56.607" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:46:56.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15486" CreationDate="2014-05-06T05:55:17.737" Score="3" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just picked up Space Alert, and read through handbook (as yet un-played), the thing that I can't understand is the reason for placing your action cards face down during the planning phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason I can think of is that it adds to the chaotic-ness of the planning phase, being unable to instantly see what another player is planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just wanted to check there's not a mechanic somewhere that I've missed. (Was thinking along the lines of BSG game, where any cylon players are trying to undermine the success of the mission but negatively contributing towards the goals)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7536" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2014-05-06T09:35:48.353" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T14:26:05.437" Title="Is there an in-game mechanic reason for placing action cards face down during the planning phase" Tags="|mechanics|space-alert|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8851" CreationDate="2014-05-06T13:04:54.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the already excellent answers presented here (upvotes all around!), I'd like to add very specific things my family and friends do to keep the game flowing at a good pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Appoint a Game Master&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guy/gal's job is to keep the game flowing nicely.  They remind everyone what the current phase is, and they handle the weird rule questions.  &lt;em&gt;If you have an experienced group, the game master is simply the current first player.&lt;/em&gt;  Concretely, what they do is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Announce the current phase.&lt;/strong&gt;  This is important.  Some people take longer in their phase than others (upkeep, planning, etc), and others may drift a bit in their mind.  Announcing the new phase not only gives them a cue to tune in, but also forces a certain pace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Guard the pace and proper sequence.&lt;/strong&gt;  In line with announcing the current phase, the game master keeps an eye on what's the current hold-up, and that people don't get ahead of themselves.  Even experienced players tend to treat Movement and Encounters in one fell sweep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Read and resolve Mythos cards.&lt;/strong&gt;  (If they're the first player, they do this anyway.)  These cards have specific and sometimes confusing orders and side-effects: doom tokens, monster movement, new gates or monster surges...  Having some experience with the game will help you roll through them much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Distribute Responsibilities&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror has a &lt;strong&gt;lot&lt;/strong&gt; of cards, especially if you start adding in the expansions.  Distributing card stacks among players is a good way to keep them involved in the game even when it's not currently their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Put decks near each player.&lt;/strong&gt;  Encounter cards, item cards, blessings, and so on, can be spread over the players per full stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Read each other's encounters aloud.&lt;/strong&gt;  Hand your encounter card to the player to your left or right for them to read aloud.  (If people have the ability to draw several and pick one, first let them pick.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spread out the tokens.&lt;/strong&gt;  Have a stack on each side of the board, consisting of: clue tokens, dollars, stamina, sanity.  This will help enormously during Mythos phases (placing clue tokens) and upkeep (stamina, sanity, dollars).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spread out Mythos and Other World Encounter cards.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;em&gt;(Only if you have many expansions.)&lt;/em&gt;  These decks become tall and unwieldy; spread them out so people can draw from a smaller one nearby.  In casu encounters outside of Arkham, have everyone look for a card of the proper colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Keep the Focus&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was mentioned in the other answers.  Focus is important; having to catch up with the game complicates things and slows down the pace.  A lot of the suggestions above are primarily aimed at flow, but also help people stay involved in the game when it's not their move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other tips that we use to good effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have some atmospheric background music.&lt;/strong&gt;  The music should be simple, not loud, and not have intelligible voices.  We use a laptop with music from old games like Hexen, Dungeon Keeper, and so on--don't use a radio or something that will have people talking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Address people by name.&lt;/strong&gt;  May be silly, but it helps with focus.  Arkham Horror is a long and involved game and, at some point, someone will tune out to other thoughts or worries.  Don't fuss about it; just address them by name when you need something; keeping the above tips in mind, this will be regularly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't tell people what to do.&lt;/strong&gt;  Should go without saying.  It's tempting for experienced players to do this.  Discussing is great, advice is great, but in the end it's down to everyone to play their part.  Little drains your fire more than simply not feeling like you're the one playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do take a break,&lt;/strong&gt; but do so at a clear checkpoint: after a Mythos or upkeep phase.  People will need to use the bathroom, check their messages, stretch their legs.  It's a good moment to get some snacks, recharge that laptop, or maybe even have dinner (take-out?).  Make sure people know when you start again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Bend the rules a bit&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skipping a turn is boring.  Are you lost in time and space?  You get an other world encounter under 'Other'.  Got knocked out in upkeep or movement?  Take an encounter at the hospital or asylum anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These changes may make the game harder or easier, and not every gaming group will agree with them, but the important thing is to &lt;em&gt;have something to do&lt;/em&gt;.  Little drains focus and enthusiasm so much as knowing at the end of the previous turn that you will do nothing next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Results?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before any expansions, our AH games took one-and-a-half to two hours.  Later on, having pretty much all the expansions, they take about two to four hours for a full game, and that's with all the stuff like vortices, Innsmouth rising, heralds, institutions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The games do still take a while, but nowhere near as long as eight hours. o_O&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7538" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T13:04:54.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15483" CreationDate="2014-05-06T14:26:05.437" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is to promote &lt;em&gt;communication between players&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you and I (try to) use the same lift/elevator in the same turn, one of us will be delayed - and this send all of that player's subsequent plans back a turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise for shooting guns, firing missiles, certain energy transfer actions... you can get really messed up if two players &quot;do&quot; the same thing in a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does that have to do with &lt;em&gt;why it is required&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The crux of &lt;strong&gt;Space Alert&lt;/strong&gt; is solving a puzzle in a short amount of time. One aspect of the puzzle is the face-down action cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It is common for new players/teams to play with cards &lt;strong&gt;face-up&lt;/strong&gt;. This is, obviously, a &quot;house rule&quot;. If you feel that the missions are too challenging, or just want an easier pass at things, then go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing with cards face-up allows you to avoid duplication, and make it easier for someone to verify that &lt;em&gt;the mouse is going to be wiggled this phase!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T14:26:05.437" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="140" CreationDate="2014-05-06T18:20:17.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have just two investigators in total, time is of the essence.  There is no time to slack, and every missed opportunity to act is another token on the doom track.  Therefore:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid monsters.&lt;/strong&gt;  They stop your movement when they engage.  The terror track is less of an issue than the doom track.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hunt for clue tokens.&lt;/strong&gt;  As in, try to arrange your movement so that you collect at least one each round, preferably more.  If you can't do that, make a stop in a location that says it has a good chance at clue tokens.  If that doesn't work, then go kill a monster--trophies are clue tokens, and they won't block you next time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only enter gates you can seal.&lt;/strong&gt;  Open gates block other gates and stop the doom track from rising.  If you're sucked through a gate and can't seal it, don't close it either.  Close only in emergencies (too many gates open, AO will awaken).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also try to give a comprehensive list of house rules and changes a fellow player and I've agreed on when playing the full game (all expansions) with just the two of us.  Most of these make the game easier, some arguably make it harder.  We still lose often, but at least we have a fighting chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll for Mythos.&lt;/strong&gt;  If you roll a 5 or 6, skip the Mythos phase (no counters move).  This is the one we use most consistently, because there are just too many gates opening otherwise, but it still allows for variation and surprises.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll for Doom tokens.&lt;/strong&gt;  Either this or item 1.  Each time a doom token would appear, roll instead, and discard on 5 or 6.  This is harder than item 1, because Rumors and counters still go at full rate.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Awaken AO = add a doom token.&lt;/strong&gt;  When the ancient one would awaken due to too many gates open, Innsmouth rising track, too many creatures in Arkham with Terror 10...  Instead add a doom token for each Mythos phase any such condition is in effect.  If the Doom track is full, well, the AO awakens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nodens as guardian.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(Optional)&lt;/em&gt;  Extra clue tokens?  Yes, please.  Plus he directs you to stable locations, often overlooked little gems that you otherwise don't have time to visit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lurker as herald.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(Optional)&lt;/em&gt;  Extra power tokens?  Yes, please.  Just a bit of your soul to go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lost in Time and Space = have an encounter.&lt;/strong&gt;  Have an Other World encounter and take what's listed under 'other'.  When you have just two people, more actions taken = more chance to succeed.  Except if you get devoured.  This happens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll for memberships.&lt;/strong&gt;  When starting a character, roll for each type of membership, and take one on a 5 or 6: Silver Twilight, Cult of the Thousand, Sheldon Gang.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually take 1, 3, 6, and 7, and I think we're at about 60%-70% success rate.  (And enough devoured investigators to fill a graveyard.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7538" LastActivityDate="2014-05-06T18:20:17.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15489" CreationDate="2014-05-07T03:07:51.080" Score="4" ViewCount="2524" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious about how this scenario will play out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have both &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380374&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geralf's Messenger&lt;/a&gt; in play and Geralf's Messenger dies (with no +1/+1 counters on it) .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that it will work like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geralf's Messenger will leave the Battlefield (maybe even go to the graveyard?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Athreos, God of Passage's ability will trigger (and go on the stack?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opponent that I target will have to choose to lose 3 life or put Geralf's Messenger back in my hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they lose 3 life, Geralf's Messenger will go back on the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they choose not to lose 3 life, then Geralf's Messenger will go back to my hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that sound right?  Basically I am trying to see if Geralf's Messenger will effect loss of 6 life before it is well and truly dead (as long as Athreos, God of Passage stays on the board).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T04:16:33.637" Title="Athreos, God of Passage and Undying" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15488" CreationDate="2014-05-07T03:59:21.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically I am trying to see if Geralf's Messenger will effect loss of 6 life before it is well and truly dead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope. Undying actually makes it worse for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think your error is that you forgot about one of the key rules of MTG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7 An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context, that means that when the Messenger leaves the graveyard, abilities that later try to move it from the graveyard won't find it since it doesn't exist anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Geralf's Messenger dies (is moved from the Battlefield to the graveyard) for whatever reason.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both its undying ability and Athreos's triggered ability trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The abilities that triggered are placed on the stack in APNAP order. A player decides the order in which his abilities are placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens next depends on the order in which you place the abilities on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you place the Undying ability on the stack first and Athreos's triggered ability second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Athreos's triggered ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return it to your hand unless target opponent pays 3 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undying resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's still in the graveyard, return it to the battlefield under your control with a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If opponent pays 3 life, it ends up on the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, it ends up in your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He shouldn't pay any life, forcing you to cast it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you place Athreos's triggered ability on the stack first and the Undying ability second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undying resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return it to the battlefield under your control with a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Athreos's triggered ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target opponent may pay 3 life, but it doesn't matter if he does or not since the object to move no longer exists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If opponent pays 3 life, it ends up on the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, it ends up on the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He shouldn't pay any life since it doesn't make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T04:16:33.637" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T04:16:33.637" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15498" CreationDate="2014-05-07T13:03:41.670" Score="6" ViewCount="4204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played several games of Pandemic, and have found it to be a really enjoyable game with a lot of challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about the possibility of modifying the rules such that the game is played to &lt;strong&gt;eradicate&lt;/strong&gt; all diseases, rather than merely cure them, as a means of varying the difficulty further, and adding extra depth to individual games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if this win condition is achievable, as I suspect there may not physically be enough cards in the player deck to allow you to eradicate all the diseases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone else considered a variant like this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T13:23:10.203" Title="Would it be viable to play pandemic with an &quot;eradicate all diseases&quot; win condition?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15494" CreationDate="2014-05-07T13:10:38.047" Score="4" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;In firefly, the bonus ship (the artful dodger) available in more recent printings of the game has several differences, including a different drive core.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During set-up, the players are supposed to take a drive core from the set of starting drive cores, however there is no such card for the artful dodger. The same drive core is however available for purchase within the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the pilot of the artful dodger play without any card for their starting drive core, and take the effects as written? or should they claim the corresponding core from the purchase decks, removing it from the pool for other players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T11:49:29.260" Title="Firefly artful dodger starting drive core" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2014-05-07T13:13:04.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, I think, on the difficulty. On Legendary (all 6 Epidemic cards), curing all four diseases is an achievement in and of itself. Eradicating all four diseases after they are cured is simply a matter of time, something that is in short supply on every difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, the win condition you're offering is definitely achievable, but slightly more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want a challenge, I'd highly suggest the &lt;strong&gt;In the Lab&lt;/strong&gt; expansion, which adds a cool layer to curing the diseases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T13:13:04.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7732" CreationDate="2014-05-07T13:32:02.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The variant of checkers described here is most likely &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pool_checkers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pool Checkers&lt;/a&gt;, or is at least closely related. A quick Google search showed several &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ludoteka.com/pool_checkers.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;online play&lt;/a&gt; sites along with general strategy write-ups. There is even an &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pool-checkers/id534569191?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;iPad app&lt;/a&gt; with VS Computer play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having never played the variant myself, I cannot give any specific advice on gameplay improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7533" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T13:32:02.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15491" CreationDate="2014-05-07T13:43:58.280" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To use the Artful Dodger, during set-up pull a &quot;Modified Radion Accelerator Mark II&quot; drive core from the Osiris Supply Deck to serve as the Artful Dodger's starting drive core. With its faster core and higher crew capacity, captaining the Dodger means working fewer delivery jobs and focusing on riskier, more profitable crime jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/145481/firefly-the-game-artful-dodger&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;product's BGG page&lt;/a&gt;. It looks like a quote from an official source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-07T20:02:14.820" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T20:02:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15496" CreationDate="2014-05-07T20:06:24.930" Score="1" ViewCount="1510" Body="&lt;p&gt;From experienced deckbuilders, how would you approach building a budget-friendly &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tendrils%20of%20Agony&quot;&gt;Tendrils of Agony&lt;/a&gt; deck? I'm thinking of basically only swamps for the manabase, but the rest (hand disruption, tutors, etc.) is okay. Would it be more of the 0-cost creatures sac or maybe sac-lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it even possible to make a good, viable storm deck that could stay consistent even without blue cantrips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T01:12:30.047" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T01:12:30.047" Title="Could an actual mono black storm (Tendril of agony) deck be viable for Legacy?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15495" CreationDate="2014-05-07T21:18:16.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very brief answer to your last question: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A slightly less brief answer: the card draw and selection that blue provides, along with the additional &quot;truly free&quot; (it doesn't cost mana or a card) storm of Gitaxian Probe, is essential to the deck's viability, letting you find your key cards more consistently.  Also, while it wasn't mentioned, the red cards (Past in Flames and/or Empty the Warrens) allow for a viable backup plan when you can't get enough storm to consistently Tendrils for lethal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could you &lt;em&gt;build&lt;/em&gt; a mono-black Storm deck?  Yes, at least in principle, in the same way that you could build a mono-black burn deck.  Would it be viable?  Unfortunately, not in any at least modestly competitive play environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T21:18:16.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2014-05-07T22:03:47.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would definitely increase the difficulty - namely, by both increasing the number of turns needed to win, and by increasing the temptation to clear cubes when you should be curing disease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was to try it, I would go back to 4 Epidemics to start, and work up/down from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T22:03:47.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2014-05-07T22:22:24.060" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can get a pretty good idea about the extra time needed just by looking at the board when you finish a normal game. How many cities still have cubes in them? How many cards are left in the player deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an absolute lower bound, you'll need two actions per city (one to move, one to treat), or one for the medic. If you've got three players and one is the medic, that's 8 cities cleared per six cards drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But usually you'll have more than 8 cities, you'll need a lot more than one action per city to get to all of them, and the infection phase will be undoing half your work. You'll also usually have 10 or fewer cards left in the player deck. The odds of being able to clear the board are really, really low - and worse, if you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do it, it's probably just because you're lucky about infected cities being close together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, simply adding an expansion and varying the difficulty using the existing means is probably a better bet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-05-07T22:22:24.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15478" CreationDate="2014-05-08T01:19:18.730" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Library is a strong card and it is far stronger than most of the cards that boost a single action type.  However, the Library also has disadvantages.  In the early game, you can buy a Silver mine for the same price, which can give you a massive resource advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player must remember that the most important resource in the game is cards.  A five cost building in the early game should give an immediate advantage that will help the player get more cards in the long run.  The Library does this, but so does the Silver mine.  A good question to ask is &quot;what am I giving up to get the Library?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having played the game quite a number of times, the Chapel seems to be the most important card in the game.  Most cards give you a 2:1 ratio of card costs:victory points.  The chapel gives a 1:1 ratio for three cost and can accumulate points for the entirety of the game.  The earlier you can grab a chapel, the better off you'll be.  If one player grabs a chapel early game they can run away with the game quite easily as other players find it nigh on impossible to keep up without a chapel of their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the nature of card games that some are stronger than others.  The Library is strong.  However, I've seen many wins without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T01:19:18.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T09:15:23.067" Score="1" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many agendas of each type of agenda can be scored? It is possible that only one of each type can be scored and the corporation wins the game with 7 agenda points total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7550" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T02:48:23.197" Title="Number of Agenda Cards Scored" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15344" CreationDate="2014-05-08T09:47:27.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play online on Yucata &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yucata.de/en/GameInfo/Reversi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yucata.de/en/GameInfo/Reversi&lt;/a&gt;.  Generally the games are played over days rather than &quot;real time&quot; though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of other great games too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T09:47:27.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T10:11:43.437" Score="3" ViewCount="2984" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for ideas on how to make Settlers of Catan quicker to play between friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever I play with friends they complain that you have to stop all the time to decide what are you going to do: trade, build, exchange at a port so the game doesn't flow as good as it should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be because my friends (and me) don't play board games very much. No one seems to be able to make key decisions quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas/suggestions on how to deal with this issue of slow decision-making?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; This question, unlike the other, is not about how to &amp;quot;shorten&amp;quot; the game by reducing the required number of moves. This question is about how to shorten the &lt;strong&gt;reaction time&lt;/strong&gt; for a given move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7552" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2021-01-06T23:42:55.610" LastActivityDate="2021-01-06T23:42:55.610" Title="How to speed up reaction time in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-05-12T21:23:55.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15500" CreationDate="2014-05-08T10:40:05.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agendas typically follow the same rules for deck composition as any other card in Netrunner.  This means there is a maximum of three copies of the same card allowed in a deck. Either player can score multiple copies of an agenda, especially if the reward for scoring it aids their playstyle (e.g., using Priority Requisition to rez big ice in a glacial build, or Astroscript Pilot Program in a fast advance deck). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple exceptions to this rule, but they will say specifically on the card that only one can be included in a deck (the most recent card like this is Jinteki's Philotic Engagement). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing core only, you should take all of the faction specific agenda AND all of the neutral agendas for your deck. This will mean three copies of Priority Requisition, and Private Security Force, plus the in faction ones. In a typical built deck (49 cards), you will need 20 agenda points to be in the deck, made up however you want from the available neutral and in faction agendas. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T10:40:05.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-08T12:56:23.817" Score="2" ViewCount="5904" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pocket the Queen and then, while covering, pocket only an opponent's coin instead of my own. Both players still have more coins left on the board. Does the Queen count as being covered by the opponent or will it be put back on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7553" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T15:57:37.870" LastActivityDate="2018-05-22T13:33:19.427" Title="While covering the Queen, what happens if I pocket only an opponent's coin?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15502" CreationDate="2014-05-08T14:47:42.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to speed up the game is to increase resource production. There are two common approaches to this:    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During setup, each player's &lt;strong&gt;second placement is a city&lt;/strong&gt;. This gives a boost to everyone's economy/engine from the start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a 3/4-player game with the map layout for 5/6 players. There will be many more spots, more valuable spots, and less blocking throughout the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, neither of these addresses the issues with turn length and trading. It sounds like your friends need to hurry up and make a decision!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T14:47:42.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13447" CreationDate="2014-05-08T15:29:45.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in redesigning a classroom experience into a game format, I would recommend the author &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/143545844&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Multiplayer Classroom&lt;/a&gt; by Lee Sheldon. In addition to discussing his own experiences as a college professor trying to teach game design by turning his course into a game – and incorporating game lingo such as mobs for quizzes, raids for presentations, game master for teacher , it contains several case studies of teachers redesigning their courses or classrooms as game experiences.  Perhaps the most relevant example would be the case study of a seventh grade math class that was transformed into a multiplayer classroom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7448" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T15:29:45.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15508" CreationDate="2014-05-08T15:38:45.503" Score="9" ViewCount="2133" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just want to know if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt; is affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doubling%20Season&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt;. The text states that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt; moves counters from a target to another, but is that the same as &amp;quot;putting them on&amp;quot; a target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T16:10:02.577" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T16:11:41.103" Title="Is Bioshift affected by Doubling Season?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15507" CreationDate="2014-05-08T15:49:22.867" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it does. See the rulings on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move a counter from one creature to another, the counter is removed from the first creature and placed on the second. &lt;strong&gt;Any abilities that care about a counter being removed or placed on a creature will apply.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruling stems from the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;121.5. If an effect says to “move” a counter, it means to take that counter from the object it’s currently on and put it onto a second object. If the first and second objects are the same object, nothing happens. If the first object has no counters, nothing happens; the second object doesn’t get a counter put on it. If the second object (or any possible second objects) is no longer in the correct zone when the effect would move the counter, nothing happens; a counter isn’t removed from the first object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T16:11:41.103" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T16:11:41.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14979" CreationDate="2014-05-08T17:39:04.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not really clear if you're looking for creative ways to have your friends invest in the game or if you're simply just trying to peak their interest. If you're going for the later, there could potentially be another avenue for playing Netrunner that might be more satisfying for your casual players who are looking to keep costs down and reduce the time spent deckbuilding. It might diverge from what you initially had in mind, but it is still worth considering, even if you just dabble in it to supplement regular play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could play online over OCTGN. The instructions to set things up are &lt;a href=&quot;http://octgn.gamersjudgement.com/wordpress/anr/installation/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's free&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the players are near a computer, it's always accessible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can play with people besides just your group of friends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the released cards are accessible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 7 core decks are pre-built for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can browse and download other decks that people have built from &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;netrunnerdb.com&lt;/a&gt; and play them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bit more impersonal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't utilize the physical cards people may have purchased (but the knowledge/experience from playing those cards isn't going anywhere obviously).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doesn't really support your FLGS.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd rather play in person using cards, but this option is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastEditorUserId="7531" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T17:52:52.263" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T17:52:52.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15502" CreationDate="2014-05-08T17:53:34.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option would be to play for less points.  The first to 7 or 8 wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T17:53:34.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15502" CreationDate="2014-05-08T19:59:02.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of speeding up the game - you could opt to reduce the cost of trading by 1 card universally (i.e. 3-1 directly with bank, 2-1 with a general port or 1-1 for a dedicated port).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan is one of those games where there exists an initial learning curve. It is not a long learning curve but it does span 1-2 games to get a basic feel and a further 2-4 games to gain a degree of innate familiarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It takes time to look blankly at a hand of resource cards, often looking towards the build card for your purchase/ build options - and not sure which options are going to give the best results)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the innate familiarity sets in so too will the length of each player's turn become shorter - significantly improving the flow of the game. Players will hope for the resource cards they need to fit a planned course of action before their turn even comes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course things get more lengthly if you introduce a variant like Cities and Knights. If you see that a variant is taking the fun out of the game by making it take too long then either play the variant less frequently or try any of the tricks already mentioned in the answers received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7494" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T19:59:02.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15513" CreationDate="2014-05-08T20:15:57.373" Score="4" ViewCount="1078" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume I have both a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Firedrinker%20Satyr&quot;&gt;Firedrinker Satyr&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daring%20Thief&quot;&gt;Daring Thief&lt;/a&gt; out in play. My Daring Thief untaps and I swap ownership of the Firedrinker with another creature of theirs. If I then proceed to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; the Firedrinker Satyr (which is now on their side) - who receives that damage that the Satyr deals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key line that is confusing me is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Firedrinker Satyr is dealt damage, it deals that much damage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main question appears to be whether &amp;quot;you&amp;quot; woud refer to the owner or the controller. My assumption is that it is the controller, as the owner is rarely needed or used - but that's not based on much but experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6877" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-08T22:31:22.793" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T22:31:22.793" Title="Who is &quot;You&quot; when the creature controller is not the owner?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15512" CreationDate="2014-05-08T20:27:05.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;You&quot; always refers to the controller of the ability, which is the controller of the creature at the time the ability triggers. So in this case, the player who controls Firedrinker Satyr at the time the damage is dealt to it - your opponent - will have the Satyr deal damage to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.5.&lt;/strong&gt; The words &quot;you&quot; and &quot;your&quot; on an object refer to the object's controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it's on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it's a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d-f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Article.aspx?x=magic/rules&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R1095&quot;&gt;HTML version&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T20:27:05.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15502" CreationDate="2014-05-08T23:34:06.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with ikegami's comment that (strategic) decisions can mostly be made before one's turn actually starts (i.e. during other players' turns). There is some interaction that may influence one's decision (esp. if one rolls into a massive resource influx on one's turn that suddenly enables many different actions that weren't previously considered), but there are very few game events that drastically change the board state (unlike some other games, e.g. Innovation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-05-08T23:34:06.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15475" CreationDate="2014-05-08T23:42:14.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6th Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your units within the transport &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; get their cover saves. Under &lt;strong&gt;Effect of Damage on Passengers&lt;/strong&gt; (p. 80), it states the damage is &lt;em&gt;treated as shooting hits&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Explodes! The unit suffers a number of Strength 4, AP- hits&#xA;equal to the number of models embarked. Resolve these as&#xA;for shooting hits, except that the controlling player allocates&#xA;any wounds caused.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When accompanied with KFF rules (p.34 w/ FAQ p. 2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Kustom Force Field: Meks will build or scavenge powerful force &#xA;field projectors with which to protect their warty hides. &#xA;A kustom force field gives all units within 6&quot; of the Mek a cover save of 5+. &#xA;Friendly vehicles within 6&quot; are counted as being obscured and have a 5+ cover save.&#xA;Vehicles within 6&quot; are treated as being obscured targets. The force field has&#xA;no effect in an assault. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we accept all units inside a transport are within 6&quot; of eachother, we can conclude:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The passengers take a Str 4, AP- hit (p. 80)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All non-passenger units and vehicles within 6&quot; receive a Str 3, AP- hit (p. 74)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All friendly &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; hostile units receive a 5+ cover save (p. 34 + FAQ p. 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friendly vehicles are obscured with 5+ cover save (p. 34 + FAQ p. 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-friendly vehicles are obscured with no cover save.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the first explanation you provided directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wrecked is different than exploded.&lt;/em&gt; Thus, the vehicle being wrecked at all is &lt;em&gt;inco-wrecked&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Wrecked vehicles are left on the table and effectively become&#xA;a piece of terrain (p. 74)&#xA;&#xA;Explodes!  The vehicle is then removed and replaced with&#xA;scattered wreckage(area terrain) or a crater roughly the&#xA;same size as the vehicle (if you have one). (p. 74)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you can resolve all damage and placement like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve Str 4, AP- hits to passenger unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve Str 3, AP- hits to nearby models (incl. vehicles); measure 6&quot; from transport&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove Transport model/add area terrain or crater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Surviving passengers are placed where the vehicle used to be&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Passenger unit takes a pinning test&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule about Deff Rollas and cover saves you cite appear to be about units being attacked by the Deff Rollas and appear irrelevant for the sake of this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7th Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7th ed. makes it about as unambiguous as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bearer, and all models within 6&quot;, receive a 5+ invulnerable save&#xA;  against any shooting attacks. If the bearer is embarked in a vehicle,&#xA;  then the vehicle receives a 5+ invulnerable save against any shooting&#xA;  attacks instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T23:54:14.570" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T23:54:14.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T02:32:47.850" Score="4" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an error in puzzle #45 of the game equilibrio? seems like the middle brick on the third line is turned incorrectly. thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7559" LastEditorUserId="3716" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T13:21:08.263" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T13:21:08.263" Title="Is there an error in equilibrio puzzle #45?" Tags="|puzzles|equilibrio|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15577" CreationDate="2014-05-09T10:36:25.837" Score="2" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the official rules, after completing the structure these things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you complete a structure, take its Site card and tuck it &#xA;  underneath the top edge of your Camp so that the gold coins are &#xA;  showing. The materials stay with the completed structure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that, the materials used to build this structure need to stay below, for the whole game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, the buildings stacked on the 2-3 materials, especially when you've put your cards into sleeves, are still moving a bit, and they make some chaos because of that stacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if they could be just put away from the game, after completing the building? I was looking for the others buildings rules, trying to search any situation, when materials of completed building could matter in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know any situation of this kind? Do you think I can remove them from the game safely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastEditorUserId="7436" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T12:17:00.640" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T19:27:11.310" Title="Do we really need to leave materials below the completed structure?" Tags="|glory-to-rome|card-sleeves|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15518" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15522" CreationDate="2014-05-09T12:38:56.663" Score="23" ViewCount="6449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like that the rules assume players are honest. One time, we had a player that lied about not having the requested resource, but was caught in the next turn when he tried to buy a road with that resource. However, a cunning opponent can lie and get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the most practical way to handle this situation? How do you deal with it? I don't really like any of the solutions I can think of. Forcing everyone to show all of their cards, having a judge/game master who checks everyone's cards, relying on everyone's honesty, ... all of them are either impractical or unfair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastEditorUserId="17836" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T05:49:18.240" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:42:40.660" Title="In Catan, how to ensure nobody lies when monopoly card is played?" Tags="|catan|cheating|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2014-05-09T12:59:00.717" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my group we always employ the 'Shenanigans' rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of 'creative' players and though they may swear they are not cheating, they may be doing it inadvertently or from sheer ignorance (or they may be untruthful). Thus the birth of the 'Shenanigans' house rule set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We add one rule to cover all cheating that is detrimental enough that if caught, the player would be at a severe disadvantage but not out of the  game. For example: our shenanigan rule for cheating in Catan is as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start by discarding your entire hand, If you have no cards in hand you must remove a city, or a settlement, or a road and finally a development card. If you have none of these things to remove then you are simply removed from the game. Zero tolerance. If you are caught cheating three times you are removed from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way you call 'Shenanigans' is a lot like the classic card game of 'I Doubt it'. After a player takes an action, anyone can call 'Shenanigans'. If the accusation is accurate then the player who was accused is given the penalty as described above, if it is in-accurate, each player has three strikes; the first three times a player wrongly calls 'Shenanigans', there is no penalty. If they are wrong a fourth time however it is considered harassment and they are instead given the penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has proven to be equitable for all involved in our group because we agree to it at the outset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case above, I would have called 'Shenanigans' when the player tried to build the road and they would have had to discard their entire hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have more creative players, you simply need to get more creative with your penalties. The important part here is that everyone understands at the outset how it works and that you make sure everyone can still have fun playing this way. Otherwise you may find yourself lacking a group of individuals to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T22:42:27.177" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T22:42:27.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2014-05-09T13:04:55.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be possible in two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Involve house rule of checking hand - each player is checked by the player on his right. Disadvantage of this method is then each player would have knowledge about one of his opponents hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After playing monopol, note down every usage of that resource - trade, drawing and spending. Then you will easily find a cheating behaviour in a few next turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both these methods should then give the cheater some penalty, discouraging that player to cheat again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, cheating is just killing such gaming - hope that you won't face many cheating players, arguing and giving penalty isn't a nice thing for the game and friendship atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T13:04:55.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15524" CreationDate="2014-05-09T13:11:17.550" Score="3" ViewCount="1868" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380492&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Satyr Grovedancer&lt;/a&gt; enters on the battlefield and I choose a creature with heroic to recieve the a +1/+1 counter, does it trigger the heroic? I don't think so because the heroic says explicitly that when a spell targets that creature but I would like to check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7335" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T13:49:16.310" Title="Does &quot;When enter on the battlefield&quot; trigger heroic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2014-05-09T13:20:12.800" Score="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Count the cards in the supply&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan you are always allowed to count the number of resources left in the supply decks.  It is a perfectly legal move to count the deck before using the monopoly on a resource.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that after you got the resources you can just check how many you have in your hand, and how many are left in the deck.  If you are missing one, then someone is cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 4th edition of the game there are 19 of each resource card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you think that counting the deck is out of the spirit of the game, having someone do it after a monopoly reveals no new information, and just controls for cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T14:36:33.520" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T14:36:33.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15525" CreationDate="2014-05-09T13:43:38.163" Score="10" ViewCount="5301" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, it's my turn, I'm trading and I agree to make a trade with player B where I give them my only wood and they give me one brick. But then, before we exchange cards, player C interrupts and says to player B - &quot;wait, I'll give you 2 wood for that brick in the next turn when I can trade&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In simpler words, do all trading offers have to include the player whose turn it is, or can other players make such offers between themselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T07:35:40.033" Title="In Catan, can players negotiate a trade when it's not their turn?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15521" CreationDate="2014-05-09T14:02:46.577" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Heroic abilities trigger &lt;em&gt;whenever you cast a spell that targets this object&lt;/em&gt;. Creature spells (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Satyr%20Grovedancer&quot;&gt;Satyr Grovedancer&lt;/a&gt;) do not target. Satyr Grovedancer has a triggered ability that targets, but abilities aren't spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gossamer%20Phantasm&quot;&gt;Gossamer Phantasm&lt;/a&gt; has the ability &lt;em&gt;When Gossamer Phantasm becomes the target of a spell or ability, sacrifice it.&lt;/em&gt; Targeting Gossamer Phantasm with Satyr Grovedancer's triggered ability would trigger Gossamer Phantasm's. (Gossamer Phantasm's will resolve first.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-09T14:17:11.773" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T14:17:11.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15523" CreationDate="2014-05-09T14:09:12.330" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Catan is a social game where &lt;em&gt;a degree&lt;/em&gt; of social banter of the sort above &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; enhance the feel of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, considering that the game permits trades with the active player - and not between non-active players, it is plausible to rule that such is interference with the active player's turn and therefore not allowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in larger games with 5+ players the game rules do not cater for trades by inactive players where the active player is not involved - and it is considered etiquette to process conflicting build requests in turn-order for precedence (hence no non-active player building a town on a contested space that is being built on by the active player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What level of trade banter you permit is down to that agreed. We have played fine enough with some banter but it can get annoying when excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7494" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T14:09:12.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15527" CreationDate="2014-05-09T14:19:43.250" Score="22" ViewCount="28898" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have 6 roads that go all around a single hex tile, they are a continuous uninterrupted road (assuming none of my opponents interrupts it with their settlements/cities). But, can I continue this 6-piece road and create a 7-piece continuous road by building a road that goes out of this hex tile? Here's an image of what I'm talking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SzqAU.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid 7-piece continuous road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2019-11-29T04:37:09.360" Title="In Catan, can you continue a &quot;circular&quot; road?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15526" CreationDate="2014-05-09T14:23:39.450" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you start with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;           _&#xA;     _ _ /   \&#xA;           _ /&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all agree that's 7 segments long. It makes no sense that adding a segment would make it shorter, so the following can't possibly be 6 segments long:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;           _&#xA;     _ _ /   \&#xA;         \ _ /&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, it must be 8, and your example must be 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules indicate that you count the number of roads in the longest branch. In your example, there are six on both the right and left branch, for a total length of seven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2019-03-06T19:07:13.407" LastActivityDate="2019-03-06T19:07:13.407" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T16:08:22.773" Score="7" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;Journey to Nyx is about to come out an I noticed many of the websites have already priced the cards. I'm wondering if anyone has any advise on when the optimal time to pick up new cards is? I realize that these pre-release prices are somewhat arbitrary and will change. I expect many of the cards to jump in price as soon as they are released as everyone is scrambling to get them then I expect things will die down a little until the pros start making their decks at which point the cards that appear most regularly will sky-rocket. I am assuming that the best point is the trough in the middle. Is this a correct assumption and if so, when will this trough begin? I also guess that the risk here is that many cards that people think will be valuable might end up being duds and conversely, I may end up over-looking sleeper cards that no one guessed would be great cards. Am I going about this the right way or is there a better way? I would greatly appreciate any input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**EDIT: This question has received several mixed votes on the basis that the answer is speculative. I want to make it understood that I am not asking for a specific or unanswerable question. An analogous hypothetical example to my question would be something in the vein of: When is the best time to buy electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: Prices generally spike right before Christmas and generally are discounted after the Holiday season and before the new models come out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it is not written in stone, my hypothetical question is, technically, speculative but given the fact that it happens every year I don't feel that it is an unreasonable question or unanswerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;**I am not asking if there is a way to tell which cards will fluctuate or what price the will reach/fall to. I'm simply asking if there is, traditionally, a good time to buy new cards from a new set.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7179" LastEditorUserId="7179" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T01:05:10.003" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T01:05:10.003" Title="What, generally, happens to card prices when a new set is released?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15529" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-09T16:10:49.230" Score="2" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried to use the German edition of the Settlers of Catan base game (published by Kosmos) with the English editions of expansions and extensions (published by Mayfair)? Is it possible? (How much) Are they compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking because I have a Serbian edition of the base game which is an exact copy of the German edition, but I don't speak German, so I would like to have English editions of expansions/extensions. But I also wouldn't like to have to buy the English edition of the base game also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastEditorUserId="7556" LastEditDate="2014-05-11T22:18:22.650" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T11:18:34.257" Title="Catan - Mixing German base game with English extensions and expansions" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16611" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:32:21.143" Score="1" ViewCount="1652" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of Mascarade there is an note on page 5 of the rule book that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;WARNING ! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player has revealed their card during the turn of the&#xA;  player immediately before them (by having called the character&#xA;  announcement of the player to their right, or by having been revealed&#xA;  by the Inquisitor), then the player cannot announce that they are&#xA;  their revealed character. The player will be forced to swap their card&#xA;  – or not – with that of another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems fairly straight forward that you must swap your card with that of another if you just revealed your card in the previous turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in a 4 player scenario what happens when one player 'announces' they are the king and two others 'claim' to be the king? do both of the other players have to swap on their following turn or only the very next player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a visual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the players are arraigned as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      1&#xA;   4     2&#xA;      3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And player 1 announces they are the king. Players 2 and 3 claim to be the king as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now from the way I read the note on page 5, player 2, who's turn it is next, is required to swap their card. They can not 'announce' to be the card they just revealed. So where does that leave player 3? If player 2 does not swap with them, then player 3 knows what card they are and essentially gets to announce with perfect certainty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T10:55:35.647" Title="Mascarade - When must you swap your card?" Tags="|mascarade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15531" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:36:10.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mascarade is an almost completely closed information game in which players have to announce what character they are in order to gather 13 coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T09:26:44.870" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T09:26:44.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15532" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-05-09T19:36:10.823" Score="0" Body="Mascarade is a card and token game of logic and luck. " OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T09:26:39.963" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T09:26:39.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:13:54.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's certainly possible - I've had a few games where three of the diseases were eradicated while we waited for the cards for the last 1/2 - but not easy. In many cases it's not going to be possible - the cubes on the board will simply be too far apart and the cards you need will be at the bottom of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't play that variant; I'm happy with just using both the virulent strain and the mutation to get the difficulty up to an acceptable level :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:13:54.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:17:39.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My experience has been that when we lose, it's normally by running out of cards. So while we haven't played with six or more epidemics, I'm not sure it would make a huge difference; if anything, it might help by keeping the cubes a little more concentrated early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:17:39.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15452" CreationDate="2014-05-09T20:21:50.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the others have said, you always finish your turn (and thus might get several more victory cards). Generally this comes up if you gain a province with one of your actions, as you could otherwise reorder your buys to get the province last, but it also matters if you're hitting another game end condition as well (say, you buy the last estate, thus emptying the third pile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the equal turns variations is ghost provinces, in which running out of provinces triggers the game end but you add extra provinces so everyone who hasn't had their last turn yet (and the person triggering game end) still gets to buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T20:21:50.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15528" CreationDate="2014-05-09T21:59:59.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to accurately predict at what price a given card will settle during a Standard season. Pre-order prices generally spike for mythics and obviously good cards, but as the season continues, prices will fluctuate based on what decks make it in the meta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, some cards in Standard may find a home in Modern, Legacy, or Vintage (or Commander!), which alters the price in an even more unpredictable way given the larger card pool; at least in Standard you can fairly easily look at what combinations you've got available to you, with under 1000 distinct cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging what cards are low and will go higher, and what cards are high and will go lower, is a process called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speculation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;speculation&lt;/a&gt;. Speculation is not an easy thing to be good at, and there are people who make their (shaky) careers on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T21:59:59.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15526" CreationDate="2014-05-09T22:03:52.820" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I wanted to add this as a comment, but I don't have the rep yet.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's one other very similar configuration that new players seem to have trouble deciphering and often count incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    _&#xA;_ /   \ _&#xA;  \ _ /&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mistake I see being made is avoiding counting the loop in favor of covering the most distance between end points which results in 5 connected roads if taking the top or bottom path rather than the 7 described by ikegami with one of the roads jutting out from the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7533" LastActivityDate="2014-05-09T22:03:52.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6127" CreationDate="2014-05-10T08:04:47.217" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;d4 by white to open the diagonal..this pawm sac then Ne5 attacking Q..after bhshop taker it we take it by pawn and the knight on c6 moves..then check by queen and bishop move next by white  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7573" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T08:04:47.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15550" CreationDate="2014-05-10T15:58:10.893" Score="3" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was young, there used to play a game where we traded cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two people used to split one pack of cards, these cards usually had information on cars. you would then compare specifications, and the one that had the highest spec, could take the other person's card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the life of me I cannot remember the name of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7576" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-05-10T22:03:05.323" LastActivityDate="2023-08-28T16:19:36.753" Title="Name of a card trading game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15540" CreationDate="2014-05-10T16:32:57.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds to me like you were playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1126/car-wars-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Car Wars: The Card Game&lt;/a&gt;. Luckily for you, I doubt there are too many games in the &amp;quot;car battle&amp;quot; genre so your choices are fairly limited. Here's the description from the BoardGameGeek site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Steve Jackson Games website and the Car Wars: The Card Game rulebook...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Car Wars: The Card Game is the game of car-to-car combat. In the near future, combat between armed and armored cars will be an arena sport. You shoot at the other cars, trying to destroy their tires and armor. The last player with an operating car is the winner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each battle, or duel, the players play cards to damage each others' cars. When one side of a player's car is breached (the armor on that side is destroyed), the car's driver may be attacked! If a car's driver is disabled and unable to operate his car, the player who disabled him scores a kill. (Note that the driver will be back for the next duel! Only the car is killed.) When only one car is left (or when time runs out), the duel is over. New duels continue until one player has scored 60 points to become an Ace!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game can be played by 2 to 6 players, ages 10 and up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is fully compatible with Battle Cattle: The Card Game! Combine the two... take your hot rod out to the pasture and go gunning for Bossy... but remember, Bossy shoots back!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the Car Wars Series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played or even thought about that game in over 2 decades. Thanks for the memories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7533" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T16:32:57.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2014-05-10T17:59:07.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I handled this - as we played with a player who subscribes to the philosophy that &quot;it's up to the other players to enforce the rules, and he is only 'using his resources' (the unknown being one)&quot; - is we added writing down our resource transactions on paper face down (we use small notepads like you'd use in clue or yatzee)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Jim - roll - transactions(s) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;    7 - robber lost 1 brick &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;    9 - 2 wheat, 1 sheep &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;    3 - 1 brick, built house &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;    5 - 1 ore, 1 wood &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;    4 - monopoly played - 3 wood gain &lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;li&gt;Lisa &lt;/li&gt;&#xA; &lt;li&gt;   7 - discard 3, stole 1 brick &lt;/li&gt;&#xA; &lt;li&gt;   9 - 1 sheep, 1 brick &lt;/li&gt;&#xA; &lt;li&gt;   3 - 1 wood &lt;/li&gt;&#xA; &lt;li&gt;   5 - 1 wheat, 1 wood &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;  4 - monopoly 0 wood lost &lt;/li&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get the idea.  - Going with the examples above: If Jim 'challenges' Lisa (on wood) he would see she SHOULD have 2 wood. The &quot;challenge&quot; - he gets to look at the 'resource record' and compare her hand to the record. If he is correct Lisa must discard her entire hand and cannot draw any resources on her next turn. If Jim is incorrect (in this case he is not) he must discard his entire hand - right then - and may not draw resources on his next turn. &#xA;(The reason we added the second part is to discourage the use of challenges as a method of seeing other player's hands. )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We explain &quot;The Challenge and Resource Log&quot; at the beginning of every game. It adds a little bit of time, but hardly any and it really adds another layer to the game. It doesn't necessarily STOP someone from cheating, but it does make the penalty a bit ickier than just a tsk-tsk from other players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7577" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T17:59:07.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2014-05-10T19:07:11.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things like &quot;lying&quot; and &quot;bluffing&quot; are really the rightful subject of house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of the original games don't encourage lying, but they don't always go out of their way to prevent it either, given their designers' knowledge that different players have different &quot;standards.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to prevent such lying in home games, the players should agree on house rules to prevent/penalize it. One such rule could be that if someone is caught in a lie, s/he automatically loses the game, which is a bit harsh. A lesser measure is that if the person lied about not having the card, s/he should not be allowed to play because someone else actually should have that privilege.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T22:37:20.577" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T22:37:20.577" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15502" CreationDate="2014-05-10T19:49:55.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to have put your finger on the problem: &quot;[We] don't play board and card games much.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to speed up decision-making is practice. You and your friends need to play the game more, get some experience, learn established patterns, etc., and your decision-making will speed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you might be able to speed up your decision making in Catan just by learning to play OTHER games better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T19:49:55.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15502" CreationDate="2014-05-10T19:53:11.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you really wanted to add another dimention of play to this you could always add a timer. Like give each person 2 minutes or something for their turn. Should the timer run out, their turn is over - effective immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7577" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T19:53:11.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2014-05-10T20:13:32.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eradication is definitely possible, and I used to play with a group that has done it multiple times on legendary difficulty (with the on the brink expansion). However, it usually takes a good degree of luck to even be possible. I think that eradication works best as a &quot;challenge&quot; win condition, so that if you ever have a game where you are easily winning, you try to eradicate, but if you're barely surviving, then just go for the regular win. If you're keeping track of a win-loss record, you could count an eradicate win as worth more than a regular win, and the additional points would offset the additional risk required to attempt it. But as the only win condition, no, I don't think that's a good idea. Eradication is too rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T20:13:32.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2014-05-10T20:21:58.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have pointed out, it is possible to get a reasonable win percentage with 6 epidemic cards. However, I would like to add that the strategy changes considerably between 4 and 6 epidemics. Besides being ruthless with actions, as another answer pointed out, you should also keep in mind that because epidemics come more often, you will get fewer new cities and cities that you've already seen more often. In my old group, we found that counting cards pretty much made the difference on legendary difficulty. It's not too hard to keep track of the probabilities of an epidemic hitting on the next turn, or when you're getting near the end of the cities that you've already seen. By counting cards you have a better chance of assessing what is urgent and what isn't. Sometimes a city will have 3 cubes on it, but will get buried under a lot of other cards, and you know that you don't have to worry about it for a while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7578" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T20:21:58.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15540" CreationDate="2014-05-10T22:41:57.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description of play sounds like &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top Trumps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, but I'd never seen a cars version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia confirms the existance of car-based packs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top Trumps was a card game popular with adults and children in the United Kingdom in the 1970s and 1980s, especially amongst boys, for whom it was a popular playground pastime. The topics tended to reflect this, and included military hardware, modes of transport and racing cars. The packs tended to be priced so that children could collect new packs by saving pocket money for a few weeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original Top Trumps were launched in 1977, with eleven different packs published by a company named Dubreq. Dubreq was also known for the Stylophone. Dubreq was taken over by Waddingtons in 1982, and they continued manufacturing packs until the early 1990s. The packs from this period are now collectible.[2]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game having been relaunched in 1999 with new packs by a new company, the same mode of play is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-10T22:41:57.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15553" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-11T16:19:09.473" Score="0" ViewCount="785" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so say you play an instant or sorcery spell and then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; targeting it could you then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swerve&quot;&gt;Swerve&lt;/a&gt; changing the target of Increasing Vengeance from the random instant or sorcery to itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7587" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-06-23T16:28:50.747" LastActivityDate="2020-06-23T16:48:16.110" Title="Do Increasing Vengence and Swerve form an infinite combo?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15553" CreationDate="2014-05-11T16:54:59.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by &quot;itself&quot; you mean having Increasing Vengeance target itself, then no, you can't do that because rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Target&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;114.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell or ability on the stack is an illegal target for itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you could do that, it wouldn't do much because no matter how many times an Increasing Vengeance were to resolve copying itself, you would still end up with a single Increasing Vengeance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you mean having Increasing Vengeance target Swerve, then you can do that but it wouldn't do much because once Increasing Vengeance starts to resolve Swerve would no longer be on the stack so the Increasing Vengeance would be countered for having no legal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T16:54:59.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15556" CreationDate="2014-05-11T17:04:07.717" Score="6" ViewCount="2864" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Increasing Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copy target instant or sorcery spell you control. &lt;strong&gt;If Increasing Vengeance was cast from a graveyard, copy that spell twice instead.&lt;/strong&gt; You may choose new targets for the copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I flash back an Increasing Vengeance, and then I copy it (possibly with another increasing Vengeance) does the copy still make two copies, or does it only make one because spell copies aren't cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T18:40:50.433" Title="Will a copy of a flashed-back Increasing Vengeance still make two copies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15555" CreationDate="2014-05-11T18:40:50.433" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it will not make 2 copies. See the ruling on Increasing Vengeance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Increasing Vengeance resolves, it creates one or two copies of a spell. You control each of the copies. Those copies are created on the stack, so they're not &quot;cast.&quot; Abilities that trigger when a player casts a spell won't trigger. The copies will then resolve like normal spells, after players get a chance to cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The copies were not cast from the graveyard, so the replacement effect doesn't apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T18:40:50.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2014-05-11T22:12:27.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's true. Make sure you pay attention to your vocabulary. Treat disease. Cure disease. Eradicate disease. I do agree that you should not try to eradicate a disease if it will cost more than two turns. However, eradication does have major advantages. Once you have eradicated a disease you now welcome the drawing of the eradicated color card during infect disease, simply because no more disease cubes can be placed on an eradicated country. Eradication will also narrow your movement down to the areas where diseases still need to be cured, which is better for treating areas without having to worry about moving far across the map to treat others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding player roles and roles working well together: special attention should be payed to each role. Not using a player role to your advantage is a big mistake in this game and is a sure way to lose consistently. I've played games where, especially in the instance of the contingency planner, where roles were not effectively used. This game is about taking advantage of every possible scenario, so critical thinking with player roles in mind is a must. I like how roles can be used in conjunction with each other like the dispatcher/medic combo. The dispatcher can move the medic over cured diseases and cure all in one move. Another one would be the scientist/researcher combo. It would be in the best interest for these two to stay close to each other since the scientist only needs four cards to cure a disease. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7589" LastEditorUserId="7589" LastEditDate="2014-05-11T22:33:09.957" LastActivityDate="2014-05-11T22:33:09.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15530" CreationDate="2014-05-11T23:21:14.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is always a responsibility of the players to swap with players who know their cards.  The reason that rule exists, is because there would be no one in place to run &quot;defense&quot; against player 2.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 3 does have someone to interfere; player 2. So no one gets a free ride as long as player 2 plays correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2017-03-28T10:55:35.647" LastActivityDate="2017-03-28T10:55:35.647" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-12T05:02:25.430" Score="2" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daring%20Thief&quot;&gt;Daring Thief&lt;/a&gt; out. My opponent attempts to kill it via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; or another kill spell. In response I untap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daring%20Thief&quot;&gt;Daring Thief&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thassa%27s%20Ire&quot;&gt;Thassa&amp;#39;s Ire&lt;/a&gt;, and attempt to gain control of, say, my opponent's 4/4 token. There are no responses, and the exchange happens. I now control a 4/4 token, and my opponent controls Daring Thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;follow&amp;quot; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daring%20Thief&quot;&gt;Daring Thief&lt;/a&gt; and kill it on my opponent's side of the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7590" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T14:46:27.607" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T15:06:17.223" Title="Do spells targeting Daring Thief follow it after control is exchanged?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15560" CreationDate="2014-05-12T05:04:51.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you exchange control of Daring Thief with another creature while a spell targeting Daring Thief is on the stack, the spell will still be targeting the Daring Thief when the exchange completes. The Thief is still the same object when the exchange happens, it just has a different controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T05:04:51.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15563" CreationDate="2014-05-12T05:49:37.053" Score="6" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the characteristics of a flip card in my library determined by both faces or just the front face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can I use an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enlightened%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Enlightened Tutor&lt;/a&gt; to fetch &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sasaya%2C%20Orochi%20Ascendant&quot;&gt;Sasaya, Orochi Ascendant&lt;/a&gt;? Enlightened Tutor searches for enchantments and artifacts. If Sasaya is only an Enchantment after she's flipped, does that count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T19:46:46.953" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T23:58:54.213" Title="What are the characteristics of a flip card in my library?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15562" CreationDate="2014-05-12T07:00:52.840" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your library, a flip card has only the characteristics of the top half of the card. You cannot use Enlightened Tutor to find Sasaya, Orochi Ascendant, because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield before the permanent flips, &lt;strong&gt;a flip card has only the normal characteristics of the card.&lt;/strong&gt; (CR 709.2, emphasis added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From 709.1a and 1b, the top half defines the &quot;normal characteristics&quot;, and the bottom half defines the &quot;alternative characteristics&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, until it's actually flipped, the card/spell acts as if the flip version wasn't printed on it, so neither the tutor nor the enchantress will ever do anything with it (since it's not an enchantment either when you cast it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T23:58:54.213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T23:58:54.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15571" CreationDate="2014-05-12T08:14:43.150" Score="2" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warhammer: Wood Elves (2014) lists Eternal Guard on page 92 with one attack in their profile. Under &quot;Equipment&quot; they are listed as being equipped with an Asrai Spear, a Hand Weapon, and Light Armor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warhammer (2010) on page 91* notes that models with &quot;Two/Additional Hand Weapons&quot; gain the &quot;Extra Attack&quot; special rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the additional Hand Weapon in the equipment profile of the Eternal Guard give them an extra attack?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally a simple reading of the rules would be enough, but I've seen an awful lot of discussion amongst experienced Warhammer players (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.asrai.org/viewtopic.php?f=42&amp;amp;t=26477&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.asrai.org/viewtopic.php?f=42&amp;amp;t=26477&lt;/a&gt;) either disparaging the new Eternal Guard, or doing math-hammer assuming only one attack each. Since I don't play very often I would usually assume that these veterans know better than me. Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally:- &lt;strong&gt;If so, does this apply even if they are equipped with shields?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would assume not, but I don't see anything preventing a model with a shield gaining the extra attack from an additional hand weapon. Not on page 43 under &quot;Sheilds&quot;, nor on page 69 under &quot;Extra Attack&quot;, nor on page 91 under &quot;Two/Additional Hand Weapons&quot;. Clearly it isn't supposed to work like that, so presumably I'm also missing something here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I'm (unfortunately!) using the big hardback, so the page number might be different if you're looking at the A5 mini-rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7591" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T16:56:43.300" Title="How many attacks do Eternal Guard have?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15567" CreationDate="2014-05-12T12:27:37.590" Score="0" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=87595&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sasaya, Orochi Ascendant&lt;/a&gt; successfully transforms would &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5686&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Argothian Enchantress&lt;/a&gt;'s ability kick into effect during that transformation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T13:25:25.587" Title="how does Argothian Enchantress interact with Sasaya, Orochi Ascendant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15565" CreationDate="2014-05-12T13:24:30.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Was a spell cast? No, self-evidently. Then &quot;Whenever you cast an [x] spell&quot; triggers won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Did a new permanent enter the battlefield? No: an existing permanent changed its characteristics. So &quot;Whenever an [x] enters the battlefield&quot; triggers won't trigger, either.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T13:24:30.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15565" CreationDate="2014-05-12T13:25:25.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it does not interact. When you flip Sasaya, you are not casting it. To cast a spell has a specific meaning, which is to place a spell on the stack and perform all the necessary steps including paying for it, etc. Flipping Sasaya happens as a result of using its activated ability, no spell casting is taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that also when you first cast Sasaya, it does not trigger the Argothian's ability, because it is not an enchantment at that time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;709.2. In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield before the permanent flips, a flip card has only the normal characteristics of the card. Once a permanent is flipped, its normal name, text box, type line, power, and toughness don’t apply and the alternative versions of those characteristics apply instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T13:25:25.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15298" CreationDate="2014-05-12T15:04:01.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tycho has two different profiles, Captain Tycho and Death Company Tycho. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Death Company Tycho is not an independent character (codex p. 41, FAQ p. 4), it is disallowed by the Dedicated Transport rules (p. 78):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;The only limitation of a Dedicated Transport is that when it is&#xA;deployed, it can only carry the unit it was selected with (plus&#xA;any Independent Characters that have joined it).&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T15:04:01.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15560" CreationDate="2014-05-12T15:06:17.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be thinking of the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only one battlefield, not one per player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.1. A zone is a place where objects can be during a game. There are normally seven zones: library, hand, battlefield, graveyard, stack, exile, and command. Some older cards also use the ante zone. Each player has his or her own library, hand, and graveyard. The other zones are shared by all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daring%20Thief&quot;&gt;Daring Thief&lt;/a&gt; never changed zone, so 400.7 does not apply, so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; never lost sight of it. Doom Blade doesn't care who controls its target, so it gets destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T15:06:17.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15083" CreationDate="2014-05-12T15:39:35.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules cited in my &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/15568/7401&quot;&gt;other answer to your question&lt;/a&gt; regarding Dedicated Transports, you are permitted to attach either a Librarian or Reclusiarch (either in Terminator Armour) along with your Death Company and deploy them in a drop pod because these models are also independent characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an additional stipulation, however, which is that Terminator Armour, by virtue of being enormous, counts as two models, reducing your Death Company capacity to 8 + your HQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the codex, p. 61:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Terminators count as two models for the purposes of transport capacity&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an unfortunate ambiguity of the &lt;strong&gt;Rule-as-Written&lt;/strong&gt; interpretation by writing &quot;terminators&quot; rather than &quot;a model wearing Terminator Armour&quot;, as the rest of the paragraph uses.  But for &lt;strong&gt;Rule-as-Intended&lt;/strong&gt;, I believe it is clear that by virtue of being placed under ARMOUR (rather than the Terminator entry)--and by the fact that Terminator Armor is still huge (whether worn by a normal squad or by a Librarian)--that the intended rule is &quot;any model wearing terminator armor counts as two models for the purposes of transport capacity&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T15:39:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15564" CreationDate="2014-05-12T16:50:11.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you need two hand weapons to claim an extra attack.  Spear + Hand weapon does not grant a bonus attack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P89, &lt;strong&gt;Two Special Close Combat Weapons&lt;/strong&gt;: &quot;A model can't .. wield .. (an) additional hand weapon alongside another type of special weapon..&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T16:56:43.300" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T16:56:43.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16754" CreationDate="2014-05-12T17:37:49.790" Score="5" ViewCount="1359" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card text of &quot;Hidden Ninja&quot; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Special: Before a base scores, play a minion there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chronomage says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may play an extra action this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have the possiblity to play an arbitrary action after that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T13:24:15.760" Title="Can you get actions in another players turn with Hidden Ninja and Chronomage?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15576" CreationDate="2014-05-12T17:47:10.483" Score="2" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card text of &quot;Tenacious Z&quot; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Special: During your turn you may play this card from your discard pile as an extra minion. You may only use the ability of one Tenacious Z each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if that means &quot;once for each card&quot; or &quot;one time each turn, no matter which card it is&quot;.&#xA;So may I play 1 or 3 Tenacious Z from discard pile when I have 3 of them in the discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T19:15:45.097" Title="May I play only one Tenacious Z or all of them from discard pile in my turn?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15573" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:50:53.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only get one extra free zombie each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T18:50:53.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2014-05-12T18:55:08.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest thing is just to not worry too much about outbreaks. Chained outbreaks are bad, but which is why you want to watch out for cities with three of a color (and especially adjacent cities with three of a color) but it's often better to just let outbreaks happen rather than spending a lot of effort preventing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1952" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T18:55:08.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15573" CreationDate="2014-05-12T19:15:45.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may only use the ability of one Tenacious Z each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may only use the ability of a Tenacious Z once each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T19:15:45.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15517" CreationDate="2014-05-12T19:27:11.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the base game there is no building that interact with the materials, so, in this case, the answer is yes, you can remove them from the game safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in &quot;Glory to Rome Promo Cards&quot; set you have three buildings that do interact with the materials. Castra Praetoria, Solarium and Watch Post. For the first two cards the kind of interaction is not important here, they move materials upon building completion, after that you do that you could still remove from the game the rest of materials. But Watch Post states : &lt;code&gt;you may use a CRAFTSMAN action to tear down one of you completed buildings. Add foundation to your hand and materials to your stockpile&lt;/code&gt;. &#xA;So if you are playing with that card the answer is no, you cannot remove them from the game safely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I hope that my answer is understandable ... I am not english native speaker)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7558" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T19:27:11.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15572" CreationDate="2014-05-12T19:37:07.913" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot, at least not with the Chronomage. The card says &quot;an extra action&quot;, but you didn't get any actions this turn (especially considering it wasn't yours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had it been &lt;em&gt;your turn&lt;/em&gt;, however, and playing one of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; minions would have caused that base to score, then the answer is yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unaware if any expansions have added exceptions to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="6981" LastEditDate="2014-05-12T20:33:06.620" LastActivityDate="2014-05-12T20:33:06.620" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-13T00:28:34.693" Score="2" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vassal is a great way to try out a game, but it seems that vassal versions and module versions frequently create trouble actually trying something out, i.e. you want to try something that requires the latest version, so you remove your older version and install the latest version. Then it will no longer open a module written for a lower version. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As vassal is Java (I think) it probably doesn't use the windows registry, but it could have some favorite directories it stores things in. If different versions use the same installed program GUID under windows, that could cause some serious pain. There are lots of ways things could go wrong with multiple installations, some of which might not be obvious right after installation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what is the most painless way to keep multiple versions of vassal around in windows so that they won't step on each other's toes? I don't really want to run one VM per vassal installation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any other way of solving problem that different modules need different vassal installations on windows is just as good, as that is the root problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="800" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T00:36:55.013" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T01:32:56.873" Title="Best way to solve vassal module version conflicts issues" Tags="|vassal|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15526" CreationDate="2014-05-13T01:57:27.453" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;given the nature of the hex grid, and the way loops count,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A  _&#xA;  / \&#xA;  \_/ 6&#xA;&#xA;   _          _   &#xA;B / \_     C / \_ &#xA;  \_/ 7      \_/ 7&#xA;               \&#xA;&#xA;   _           _    &#xA;D / \_     E _/ \_  &#xA;  \_/ 7       \_/ 7 &#xA;  /&#xA;&#xA;      _             _    &#xA;F   _/ \_      G   / \_  &#xA;  _/ \_/ \_        \_/ \_ &#xA;                     \_&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A is a circle - you can only count each chunk once.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B is is a circle with a spike. You start counting at the spike, and end when you loop back.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C is similar - you can count either the second spike, or the return to the base of the first spike, but not both&lt;br&gt;&#xA;D is 7 - you ignore one spike or the other, because if you go spike to spike, you get 6 the long way.&#xA;E is like D - only one spike counts.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;F, you ignore the either the bottom or the top of the loop - and get 9 either way&lt;br&gt;&#xA;G you will ignore the one in the middle - and get 10 - because the spurs are longer (2 and 3) than the one in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T01:57:27.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15523" CreationDate="2014-05-13T02:12:18.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules only allow trades with the active player; those can be proposed by either party. The rules do not permit trades with anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a) Domestic Trade&#xA;  On your turn, you can trade Resource Cards with any of the&#xA;  other players. You can announce which resources you need&#xA;  and what you are willing to trade for them. The other players&#xA;  can also make their own proposals and counter offers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: Players may only trade with the player whose turn it is.&#xA;  The other players may not trade among themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Catan, 4th Edition, Revision 1, Page 4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given the situation A's turn, B proposes a trade with A, and C proposes a trade with B, C is ignoring the trading rule, as negotiation of the trade is part of the trade step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual play, it is at the very least, poor form, and bad sportsmanship. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Tournament play, it's grounds for complaint to the judges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T02:12:18.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13505" CreationDate="2014-05-13T07:08:42.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2007 rule book PDF I have says &quot;It is permitted to drive through spaces with trucks.&quot; Unfortunately, I don't know where I got the PDF so I don't know if it's an official translation. It has the 2007 Schmidt Spiele artwork though, so could be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SpotLight on Games rules translation from 2003 (and thus presumably for the 1987 edition) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://spotlightongames.com/rules/aufachse.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) says &quot;However, it is allowed to pass another player's truck in either direction.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither says anything about skipping the space though. I've always played it as the occupied space counts but you may not be able to stop on it. (In 1987 rules, you can't stop on it if there's a truck there. In 2007 rules, 2 trucks can occupy a highway space. You can still pass them even if the space is &quot;full&quot; though, so long as you end on a legal space.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T07:08:42.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14840" CreationDate="2014-05-13T07:18:26.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not official, but there is a (fan-created) FAQ post on BGG now &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1127034/rules-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It states (towards the end) that the Climber is allowed to use the Jetpack to travel to a blocked tile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T07:18:26.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-05-13T11:38:00.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always buy a pack of blank cards and then use Moo.com to create custom stickers to stick on the blank side. It would be virtually impossible to tell the difference unless you really disturb your cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7604" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T22:30:13.367" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T22:30:13.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20641" CreationDate="2014-05-13T13:19:07.577" Score="3" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;what games are there that use a point buy system for deck building instead of a card limit?&#xA;what are the obvious effects this would have on the style of play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only currently aware of one example from the video game Rage, there is a CCG mini-game where your deck is built of 75 points and each card has a specific point cost.  This example is a very basic one and i am interested in using this mechanic in a more expansive custom game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T17:34:17.797" Title="point buy TCG CCG deck building mechanics" Tags="|game-design|deck-building|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15589" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15590" CreationDate="2014-05-13T14:02:53.263" Score="11" ViewCount="1386" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play as a runner, I tend to be apprehensive about unrezzed ICE unless I have a breaker of each type and a pile of credits. Naturally, neither of those things are in place early in the game, and some decks might not even be able to get all 3 breaker types out during the play (if they even exist in the deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've played the core Shaper deck a few times, as well as the core Criminal deck once (fun fact, the only way to break code gates in it is with Crypsis or bypass with Femme Fatale, both of which seem very expensive). I'm trying to keep the pool of cards small so it's less overwhelming to keep track of which cards do what. So, I'm sticking to the core set for the moment, although the corp decks I run against could have cards from any set. I am starting to look at decks that others have built, particularly some Shaper Dagger/Paintbrush decks (which is raising it's own set of questions, which I'll probably ask later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, early in the game when your rig is incomplete or non-existent and unrezzed ICE is out on the board, what are some common tactics in dealing with them? Is it usually &quot;safe&quot; to simply facecheck ICE early on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastEditorUserId="7531" LastEditDate="2014-05-13T15:01:45.157" LastActivityDate="2019-02-28T01:23:40.433" Title="What are some common tactics to make runs against servers with unrezzed ICE in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|tactics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15589" CreationDate="2014-05-13T14:36:26.603" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously it depends on the game-state, but here are some tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be aware of how much money the Corp has&lt;/strong&gt;. The less they have, the less dangerous the ICE they can afford to rez. (Also, don't forget that the more aggressively you run, the more they rez and the less money they have for other plans.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run on click one, especially against HB&lt;/strong&gt;. Judge the threat of bioroids, which are cheap for how dangerous they are, but can be safely face-checked if you have clicks to spare.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run with redundant cards, especially against Jinteki&lt;/strong&gt;. You should already be aware of traps in Jinteki servers, but ICE can also hurt you. Related to this, if you have something you absolutely have to keep, get it on the table if you suspect damage from ICE. If you lose one card from a hand of five, of course you'll lose the one you could least afford to!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run with a click&lt;/strong&gt; (and two credits) &lt;strong&gt;to spare, especially against NBN&lt;/strong&gt; (and some Weyland). Tags are a genuine threat, and Corps won't ever try to tag you without having something nasty round the corner. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01099&quot;&gt;Scorched Earth&lt;/a&gt; is a game-defining card. Your last click should be reserved for clearing a tag until you know you won't need to.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Don't install any programs&lt;/strong&gt;. Counter-intuitive, and kind of contradictory to installing cards you need, this makes you particularly resilient against program-trashing strategies. It's surprisingly viable to run very aggressively with no rig. Once you're being consistently kept out, slow down, build a rig and come back ready.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forewarned is forearmed&lt;/strong&gt;. Run HQ and R&amp;amp;D aggressively from the start. Missing an agenda is not a waste of a click at the start of the game. Learn from what you do see. You'll almost certainly see ICE at some point, so log it. Especially watch for out-of-faction ICE, or ICE that would be particularly punishing. (Obviously, this applies to more than just ICE.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T14:36:26.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="60872" CreationDate="2014-05-13T16:43:43.443" Score="7" ViewCount="21665" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Magic (or started again rather) just after the Theros set had come out. The standard format was defined to include the Return to Ravnica block and the entire Theros block of which the last two sets had not come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not think Wizards of the Coast has made any official announcements yet so I'm asking for what may happen based on what has happened in the past. When can I expect Standard to change and what should I expect? Is it likely that the Theros block will remain in and the Return to Ravnica block will drop, or are the changes unpredictable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2024-03-19T18:16:30.417" Title="How often does the standard set change?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15591" CreationDate="2014-05-13T16:53:38.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The format rotation is pretty predictable (although subject to change at WOC discretion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards allowed (aside from cards that get banned on an individual case basis):&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Cards from 2 most recent &lt;em&gt;story-related&lt;/em&gt; blocks&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Cards from any Core set released after the older &lt;em&gt;story-related&lt;/em&gt; block in standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example (from May 13, 2014):&#xA;Current standard: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Return to Ravnica&#xA;Gatecrash&#xA;Dragon's Maze&#xA;Magic 2014&#xA;Theros&#xA;Born of the Gods&#xA;Journey Into Nyx (effective May 2, 2014)&#xA;Magic 2015 Core Set (effective July 28, 2014)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the &lt;em&gt;story-related&lt;/em&gt; block is released (after Magic 2015 Core Set) Return to Ravnica, Gatecrash, Dragon's Maze and Magic 2014 will cycle out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new &lt;em&gt;Story-related&lt;/em&gt; block and its first set are usually released every Sept/Oct each year (2 new sets of the block follow after 3-4 months each). Core sets usually come out in June/July. Each &lt;em&gt;story-related&lt;/em&gt; block is in 'Standard' for about 2 years. Later sets in block and the core sets usually cycle out in about a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2016, it is planned to change the release schedule of new cards and block rotation for the standard format. Standard will consist of the last 3 blocks and each block will rotate out after 18 months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T19:20:18.610" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T19:20:18.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15591" CreationDate="2014-05-13T17:17:53.950" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard rotates once a year, in the fall. New cards printed in a core set or expansion set stay in Standard for between one to two years after their printing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, the normal set release schedule is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One block (like Theros) on a yearly cycle: one sets each for fall, winter, and spring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One core set (like M14) each summer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A couple of specialty products throughout the year, like Commander decks or Modern Masters. These aren't part of Standard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the structure of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/tcg/resources.aspx?x=judge/resources/sfrstandard&quot;&gt;Standard&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/products/allproducts&quot;&gt;the release schedule&lt;/a&gt; have varied over time, but there's no particular reason to think Wizards of the Coast will change them anytime soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern-day Standard environments consist of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The current block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The previous complete block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any core sets released since the previous complete block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards in Standard rotate once a year, when the first set of the new block is released in the fall. At its smallest, Standard is one old block + one set from the new block + one core set. At its largest, just before rotation, Standard is two complete blocks + two core sets. Because rotation happens in the fall, the cards in the summer core sets effectively &quot;age out&quot; the fastest (after about 1 1/4 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2014-05-13T17:17:53.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15595" CreationDate="2014-05-14T12:08:34.930" Score="3" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Tobago there are only few rules when placing huts, palms and statues and implicitly I never placed these landmarks on lake tiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any rule or hint saying whether or not they can be placed on lake tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:25:14.943" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:25:14.943" Title="Can you place landmarks in lake?" Tags="|tobago|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15594" CreationDate="2014-05-14T12:19:59.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is not. The only stipulations for landmarks are the following, according to the game setup sheet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Each space may only contain one object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;All similar objects must be placed &lt;strong&gt;at least four spaces apart&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Statues may not be placed adjacent to the ocean.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're making the choice to not put trees or huts on lake tiles, while it is practical for &quot;realism&quot;, there's no rule against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T12:19:59.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14945" CreationDate="2014-05-14T18:54:37.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered a board game bits store like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meeplesource.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.meeplesource.com/&lt;/a&gt; ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T18:54:37.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14945" CreationDate="2014-05-14T23:56:56.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please, check the following question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7542/whats-a-good-source-of-generic-pieces-components&quot;&gt;What's a good source of generic pieces/components?&lt;/a&gt; There are a lot of board game components shops listed there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-05-14T23:56:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15598" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-15T15:33:01.930" Score="2" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: this is not (just) a theoretical question. I have been asked to develop a solo game mode for the game that I am working on, and I'm wondering if I should start with a cooperative mode instead.&lt;/em&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q 1&lt;/strong&gt;: Given a &lt;strong&gt;solo&lt;/strong&gt; game (i.e. a game designed/intended for one player), what qualities must it have - positive and negative - for it to have a natural extension for multiple, cooperating players?    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such quality would be the &lt;em&gt;control of several characters&lt;/em&gt;: if the player is responsible for the movement/actions of several otherwise-independent characters, it would be reasonable to assign each character to a &lt;em&gt;player&lt;/em&gt; (thereby creating a &quot;cooperative&quot; game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Given a &lt;strong&gt;multiplayer cooperative&lt;/strong&gt; game (i.e. a game designed/intended for several players to work together toward a common goal), what qualities must it have - positive and negative - for it to have a natural... &lt;em&gt;distillation&lt;/em&gt; to a solo game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of what I've come up with on this end is a list of things/games that &lt;em&gt;won't work&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Escape: Curse of the Temple&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Space Alert&lt;/strong&gt; are two popular cooperative games that are played on a timer (which is actually an audio soundtrack). Without changing the soundtrack/game length, it would be tough for a single player to do what 4-5 players are usually responsible for.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game play of &lt;strong&gt;Hanabi&lt;/strong&gt; relies entirely on the &lt;em&gt;limited information&lt;/em&gt; that each player has, and on controlling communication. A single player... well, it would be hard to imagine &lt;strong&gt;Hanabi&lt;/strong&gt; keeping its elegance in a solo mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2014-05-15T17:49:04.817" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T17:49:04.817" Title="Can a solo game be converted into a cooperative game (and vice versa)?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-05-19T21:19:53.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15598" CreationDate="2014-05-15T16:06:15.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Q1: Two things it must have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two or more opposing factions or teams. A solo player is simply on one side, then by expanding the game to allow players to be on either side, the game can become multiplayer and/or cooperative.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A limit to the number of rewards or prizes the factions are trying to accomplish. This is what evokes the competition. A solo player is competing against the computer to be the first to win the prizes. Then to expand to multiplayer/cooperative, the players are on separate teams are now competing for the limited number of prizes (and be the fastest to do it).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T16:06:15.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2014-05-15T16:28:32.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conan had a &quot;point buy&quot; system for elements of it's build (in addition to the Netrunner commented above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest flaw is book-keeping - it's fairly easy to count that you have X cards, or that you only have Y copies of a card. Counting the total number of points in a deck is a lot more math, and that's not always a selling feature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T16:28:32.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15602" CreationDate="2014-05-15T16:48:29.987" Score="4" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend loaned me Smash Up with all the expansions but I'd like to start out playing just the &quot;base&quot; set.  Which 16 bases should I use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(He already removed the duplicate bases from Level 9000 so I cannot identify them that way)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7616" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T19:45:45.767" Title="What are the original 16 base cards in Smash Up?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15601" CreationDate="2014-05-15T17:00:08.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every base is keyed to a faction. It's pretty easy to determine with which faction a base is associated, so look for the bases associated with the factions from the original game. If there are ambiguities, keep in mind that each faction has two kindred bases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bases from the original game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jungle Oasis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tar Pits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Grey Opal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tortuga&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mushroom Kingdom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cave of Shinies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evans City Cemetery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rhodes Plaza Mall&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Central Brain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Factory 436-1337&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Mothership&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Homeworld&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temple of Goju&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ninja Dojo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Great Library&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;School of Wizardry&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-16T19:45:45.767" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T19:45:45.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14985" CreationDate="2014-05-15T19:27:55.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible to play with specific friends in real-time, though it may not be possible to play asynchronously. (Last time I tried, the game aborted if either my opponent or I left the TTR app, so it was real-time play only. That was a while ago though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how to set it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For iPad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the main TTR screen (with Gerry the Conductor holding the ticket labeled Play!), click the &amp;quot;More...&amp;quot; gear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the next screen, click Online Games. This should automatically log you in to the online servers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the spiral notebook at the center of the screen, click either the Game Center tab (for your GC friends) or Buddies (friends you've marked in some version of online TTR - web or mobile).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap the name of one friend you want to play with. This will fly out a screen where you can choose the map and whether the game is ranked or not. Make your choices and hit the green Play button&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A standard Game Center Multiplayer Game window will appear. It will default to a 4-player game, with you, the friend you selected, and 2 auto-match slots. You can delete slots (though in trying I had to remove my friend first and then could delete the auto-match slots) or add specific friends with the Invite Friend button. If you add, you'll be prompted for the message to send them. If they accept, the game will start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For iPhone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the main TTR screen  (with Gerry the Conductor holding the ticket labeled Play!), click your playername in the upper right. (You may need to click on your player icon first to make it slide out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under the box with your playername and account #, click &amp;quot;Edit my profile&amp;quot; and then &amp;quot;Yes&amp;quot; to go to the Days Of Wonder site. This should automatically log you in to the online servers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From the profile page, you should be able to add/delete buddies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="743" LastEditorUserId="24175" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T04:54:42.770" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T04:54:42.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="15604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15173" CreationDate="2014-05-15T19:34:39.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use these URLs to see the &lt;em&gt;current version&lt;/em&gt; of the cards directly from CAH:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cardsagainsthumanity.com/wcards.txt&quot;&gt;http://cardsagainsthumanity.com/wcards.txt&lt;/a&gt; (White Cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cardsagainsthumanity.com/bcards.txt&quot;&gt;http://cardsagainsthumanity.com/bcards.txt&lt;/a&gt; (Black Cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These text files are updated frequently, whenever the base CAH set is updated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some expansions, .txt files also exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardsagainsthumanity.com/bcards1.txt&quot;&gt;http://www.cardsagainsthumanity.com/bcards1.txt&lt;/a&gt; (Expansion 1, Black Cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardsagainsthumanity.com/bcards2.txt&quot;&gt;http://www.cardsagainsthumanity.com/bcards2.txt&lt;/a&gt; (Expansion 2, Black Cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to turn up the white cards or other expansions through URL hacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a couple of 3rd party sites and Github repos which have collected lists of the cards, both the main set and various expansions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mdsc.info/dropbox/cah/&quot;&gt;http://mdsc.info/dropbox/cah/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/nodanaonlyzuul/against-humanity/blob/master/source/cards.json&quot;&gt;https://github.com/nodanaonlyzuul/against-humanity/blob/master/source/cards.json&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/samurailink3/hangouts-against-humanity/wiki/Cards&quot;&gt;https://github.com/samurailink3/hangouts-against-humanity/wiki/Cards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T19:34:39.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13734" CreationDate="2014-05-15T21:16:50.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found that certain characters do provide benefits in certain scenarios. Some of their abilties really can be game winners such as the shaman's ability to manipulate the gate stack. It's also becoming clear that different tactics are required for different Great Old Ones. We have mastered Azathoth with an all round mix of characters and tactics but we are currently battling Yog Sothoth and it seems a more Lore and magic heavy approach is required. Likewise Shub Niggurath seems to be monster heavy so some real brawlers with serious weaponry will be required for that particular black goat of the woods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Hunting and be careful out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7618" LastActivityDate="2014-05-15T21:16:50.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15606" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15610" CreationDate="2014-05-16T00:41:08.397" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says.  I recently purchased a Twilight of the Dragons and War of the Elements booster box.  I got 24 packs of cards from each set and it stuck me that I didn't know the rules behind the Dragonflights or Elementals respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain these rules or link to rules for them online?  A google search turned up nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7619" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T06:32:38.180" Title="What are the rules for Dragonflights in the WoW TCG?" Tags="|wow-tcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16610" CreationDate="2014-05-16T03:47:02.230" Score="3" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;Pathfinder Adventure Card Game&lt;/em&gt;, the &lt;code&gt;Spectre&lt;/code&gt; monster card's check to defeat says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Combat 11 OR Wisdom Divine 7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card text says (in part): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;If the check to defeat does not have the Magic trait, the Spectre is undefeated.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that I must somehow magically augment my Wisdom to defeat the Spectre, or does that clause only apply to a Combat check?  Will my Wisdom only scare it away for a while, or can I defeat it permanently?  Is there any way to add the Magic trait to a Wisdom check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find any mention of this in the errata, but maybe I didn't look hard enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T14:42:29.847" Title="Do I need Magic Wisdom to defeat the Spectre in Pathfinder ACG?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="15609" CreationDate="2014-05-16T03:56:54.017" Score="2" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;Pathfinder Adventure Card Game&lt;/em&gt;, the &lt;code&gt;Collapsed Ceiling&lt;/code&gt; barrier card says in part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;If you fail the check to defeat by 4 or more, you are &#xA;dealt 1 Combat damage that may not be reduced.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The check to defeat is 8.  Does the ceiling do damage if my check total is less than 12 or if it's less than 4?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help!  My domestic tranquility is at stake!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T19:34:56.217" Title="When does the Collapsed Ceiling deal damage?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15608" CreationDate="2014-05-16T04:52:21.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither. The ceiling does damage if your check total is 4 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 3: Failed by 5 (failed by 4 or more): Failed with damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 4: Failed by 4 (failed by 4 or more): Failed with damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 5: Failed by 3 (failed by less than 4): Failed without damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 6: Failed by 2 (failed by less than 4): Failed without damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 7: Failed by 1 (failed by less than 4): Failed without damage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 8: Passed the check&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 9: Passed the check&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 10: Passed the check&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 11: Passed the check&lt;br&gt;&#xA;check total = 12: Passed the check&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guessing from the little I know of the card, you're trying to dig your way through a room with a collapsed ceiling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you roll 8 or more, you succeeded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you roll 5, 6 or 7, you didn't make it through yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you roll 4 or less, you didn't make it through yet, and you hurt yourself in the process (dropped a rock on your foot, stabbed yourself on a piece of rebar, pulled a muscle, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your total is 12, you didn't fail the check, by 4 or by any other amount.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-16T19:34:56.217" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T19:34:56.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="15610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15606" CreationDate="2014-05-16T06:32:38.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both of the sets that you listed follow the same standard rules as the rest of the sets, however, seeing as UDE no longer supports the game, it makes it difficult to ask them questions. The most up-to-date rule set that I could find can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cryptozoic.com/sites/default/files/uploads/files/wow_cr_v601_120409.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cryptozoic.com/sites/default/files/uploads/files/wow_cr_v601_120409.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7528" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T06:32:38.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15607" CreationDate="2014-05-16T14:42:29.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a way to augment a Wisdom check with the Magic trait, I'm unaware of it except with using Divine spells or items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Weapons and/or spells with the Magic trait work for the Combat check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, you &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; use a straight Wisdom (or straight Divine) check to defeat a Spectre; as it's Incorporeal, it must be defeated by magical means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T14:42:29.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15530" CreationDate="2014-05-16T14:52:53.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes, this is the correct interpretation of the rule&lt;/strong&gt; (as Andrey has already pointed out). Player 2 can choose to switch with Player 3, or decide not to and accept that the consequence is a free use of their power. Player 3 doesn't have to switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gaming group decided that in a four person game, this was a little frustrating if you're Player 2, since in some cases you have to switch to prevent somebody from winning even though the card you'd be receiving isn't useful to you. For these smaller games, we've been playing with a house rule that if your card has been revealed since your last turn, you must switch cards. This leads to slightly longer games, but it seems to work well in making sure the game runs more smooth (paradoxically by insuring it is more complicated because of more switching).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this house rule doesn't tend to work as well in games with 6 or more people (and this game is meant to be played with up to 8). It tends to just drag the game out. Additionally, this rule doesn't work well with people who do not play a lot of board games, much for the same reason; it appears to add an unnecessary obstacle to the game, only causing games to take longer. So there is a balance in using this house rule to ensure that the game is fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T14:52:53.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15335" CreationDate="2014-05-16T18:09:51.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @user2617804 mentioned, you may find yourself with the 4-4-3-2 hand, unable to open a 5-card major but also lacking 4 diamonds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And similar to what @ruds said, especially at duplicate, you want the major suit part score (or NT) instead of a minor part score.  Especially at match points!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are the reasons why you should prefer the 4-card major to showing support for a minor.  That said, I have heard that &quot;better minor&quot; described as a regional thing, referring more to answering the question:  What do you open (a non-1NT valued) with 4-3-3-3?  1C or 1D?  West coast style (at least what I was taught) is that you ALWAYS open that 1C.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're say 3-2-4-4 for example you would open 1D.  But some people look at the quality of the minors, when they have equal number of cards in each, to decide which to open.  That's what I understand &quot;better minor&quot; to mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play a system where a 1C opener COULD potentially promise ONLY two clubs (that is, a bid of 1D ALWAYS promises 4+, so you would open a 4-4-3-2 hand 1C) the ACBL requires an Announcement &quot;could be short&quot; when pard opens 1C.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6954" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T18:09:51.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7612" CreationDate="2014-05-16T18:35:29.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lich's Mirror should also work to get her out. Or maybe not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7623" LastActivityDate="2014-05-16T18:35:29.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-16T18:52:29.207" Score="3" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/84876/the-castles-of-burgundy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Castles of Burgundy&lt;/a&gt; last night, and early in the second phase, one of the players realized that he had made a major error the round before -- he had placed two of the same building into an area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a good 10-20 min talk about how we should handle the issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scrap the whole game and start over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo his previous turn, and make him take it over.  (but we weren't 100% sure we could remember his die rolls, and that may have affected what other people did since his turn (eg, he had taken the last available mine)).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo everyone's last turn.  (also problematic, as we'd have to remember what everyone did, and their die rolls).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Undo the last two rounds, re-roll and play from there (not a chance in hell of us remembering everything we'd have to back out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Force him to move the recently placed building to another area (with a different die cost), and pay workers to make up for the difference.  (note that he offered to make it even by the end of the turn (by placing a boarding house); I wanted him to burn a die immediately to get the workers to make it even)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow him to move the conflicting building placed earlier (multiple rounds before) to a different area, as there was an available hex with the same die value on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare him to have automatically have lost (which would likely have him walk out, affecting the rest of the game).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign some sort of a penalty for it.  (points, or for our tournament, time)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just let it ride, as there was no good way to reconcile it.  (I was told this is how PrezCon handled a similar situation last year)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a sort of tournament ranking going, with the top winners from a 'season' getting to select the games we play next ... so there were issues with setting a precident in scrapping a while game (someone could do it when they knew they were losing, so they didn't slip in the standings), or in assigning a penalty (as someone might decide the penalty was worth it if they got caught).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any recommendations for dealing with this situation, or similar situations in other games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="143" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T20:24:13.027" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T20:24:13.027" Title="Catching an illegal move too late in Castles of Burgundy" Tags="|the-castles-of-burgundy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16616" CreationDate="2014-05-16T22:04:37.093" Score="2" ViewCount="3636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Courser%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; in play, and a scry land (say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20of%20Plenty&quot;&gt;Temple of Plenty&lt;/a&gt;) on top of my library revealed. If I then play the land off my library using the Courser's ability, which of the following happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play the land, then reveal the top card of my library, then&#xA;scry. Or,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play the land, then &lt;strong&gt;before revealing the new top card of my&#xA;library&lt;/strong&gt;, scry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T14:22:41.717" Title="When do you reveal the top card of your library with Courser of Kruphix and scry lands?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16615" CreationDate="2014-05-16T23:03:41.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You never get to choose to reveal the top card of your library. As soon as a card becomes the top card of your library (which happens when the previous top card, the land, was removed from your library to be put into play) it is revealed. It's not something you can respond to or choose to take other actions. It's a property of your library that must be maintained at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would venture to say that option 2 would get you in trouble at a sanctioned event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a case that appears to break that rule. From the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the top card of the player's library changes while a spell is being cast, the new top card won't be revealed and can't be looked at until the spell becomes cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're casting a spell, and it says something like &quot;As an additional cost to cast ~, exile the top three cards of your library face down.&quot; You may not reveal those three cards before exiling them. The top one would stop being revealed as it goes face down, and the two below it stay face down (to both you and your opponents). For a brief moment, the top card is still face down, because the spell is still &lt;em&gt;in the act of being cast&lt;/em&gt; - once the spell is actually cast (i.e. placed on the stack) the top card of your deck is revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do note that State-Based Actions (SBA) aren't checked/performed while the spell is being cast. SBA checks include &quot;is the top card of my library revealed?&quot; or &quot;do any creatures have 0 toughness?&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a creature with something like &quot;Play with the top card of your library revealed. ~'s power and toughness are equal to the revealed card's mana cost&quot;. If you had no card revealed, the creature would die. By not performing state-based actions until the spell completes casting and the next top card revealed, you don't lose your (theoretical) creature even though its toughness temporarily drops to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-17T14:22:41.717" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T14:22:41.717" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16615" CreationDate="2014-05-17T04:18:53.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get to see the card long before you Scry. You can even cast instants and activate abilities between when you see the next card and when you Scry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing conditional about &quot;play with the top card of your library revealed.&quot; When you play with the top card of your library revealed, it is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; revealed as far as the game is concerned. If the card isn't facing up, turn it face up before doing anything else (e.g. making choices, checking if abilities trigger, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one exception: You don't reveal new cards when casting or activating an ability (to avoid leaking info if the casting or activation needs to be reversed)&lt;sup&gt;[CR 401.6]&lt;/sup&gt;. But that's irrelevant here. Since you're not casting any spells or activating any abilities in the scenario you presented, there is never a moment when it's not revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play Temple of Plenty:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You move Temple of Plenty of the top of your library the battlefield.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You reveal the next card of your library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temple of Plenty's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You placed Temple of Plenty's triggered ability on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Players receive priority. They can cast instants and activate abilities here. These will resolve before continuing.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Temple of Plenty's triggered ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scry 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;401.6. Some effects tell a player to play with the top card of his or her library revealed, or say that a player may look at the top card of his or her library. If the top card of the player’s library changes while a spell is being cast, the new top card won’t be revealed and can’t be looked at until the spell becomes cast (see rule 601.2h). The same is true with relation to an ability being activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-17T04:36:11.063" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T04:36:11.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-17T18:23:09.893" Score="1" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are at least two cards that I know of that make 5/5 Beast tokens (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spawning%20Ground&quot;&gt;Spawning Ground&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=One%20Dozen%20Eyes&quot;&gt;One Dozen Eyes&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet I can't seem to find an actual token card that is a 5/5 Beast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does such a card exist? I know I could use a die that has a 5 on it, or take a 3/3 and write 5s over them.  But this question is for someone who is into the real token cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they do exist, how would I find some?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-05-17T18:59:48.670" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T18:59:48.670" Title="Are there 5/5 Beast Token cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16619" CreationDate="2014-05-17T18:38:45.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/extras.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a pretty comprehensive list of official MTG tokens and similar cards&lt;/a&gt;. I can't find a 5/5 Beast on that list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Putting tokens in packs only really started around Tenth Edition, and has been done consistently since. The cards from before that are special promos.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the modern day, sets sold in booster packs have tokens and emblems as some of the inserts (typically mixed with ad and rules tip cards). Pre-built sets like Commander products and Duel Decks may or may not come with token cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast does not make &quot;copy&quot; tokens (how would you?), but they do print specific tokens with abilities listed on the cards, as well as tokens with variable P/T.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5B5/5%5D%20%5BBeast%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the cards that produce 5/5 Beasts&lt;/a&gt; are from Mirrodin and Commander 2013. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/article.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/products/allproducts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mirrodin came before Tenth Edition&lt;/a&gt;, while Commander 2013 is a non-randomized set that didn't include tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-05-17T18:52:02.453" LastActivityDate="2014-05-17T18:52:02.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16624" CreationDate="2014-05-17T20:43:27.820" Score="7" ViewCount="16067" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing Pandemic, but the one of the biggest holdups for me is how you can only play 4 players. However, in the box there are 7 roles! (Scientist, Researcher, Medic, Quarantine Specialist, Dispatcher, Operations expert, Contingency planner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone had experience or would like to hypothesize playing with 5, 6, or all 7 players at once? If so, what additional rules do you incorporate (if any) to keep the integrity of the game (i.e. starting cards, number of actions, etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that there are only so many city cards to use so 7 players would really make you be super sensitive in how you use the cards. And I'm sure there are other things to consider also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just very curious to know what all of your experiences are! Thank you for your time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T06:47:05.910" Title="How many players realistically possible in Pandemic Board Game 2nd edition" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16623" CreationDate="2014-05-17T21:24:33.883" Score="6" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have three cards in my hand Ascension, each worth two points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I allowed to buy two cards worth three points each (As I had six total), or can I only buy a three point and a two point card as I've used two cards in my hand to pay for the three-point card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, do I get change when I spend the points on a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7018" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:40:30.640" Title="Do you get change from cards in Ascension?" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16622" CreationDate="2014-05-18T01:50:57.373" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy 2 cards costing three runes each, but not because you get &quot;change&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you play a card worth 2 runes, what that does is adds 2 runes to the pool of runes you have available to spend. So when you play 3 cards like that, you now have 6 runes in the pool of runes to spend. It no longer matters at all how the runes got there. You have 6 runes to spend, and you can spend them however you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T04:05:59.753" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T04:05:59.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16621" CreationDate="2014-05-18T07:30:12.100" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The On the Brink expansion does allow for five player games . I believe the only rule change in On the Brink that would affect this is only shuffling two event cards per player into the deck. I'm not sure if this would affect only playing with the base game (the expansion includes many more event cards which makes this necessary), I can't remember how many event cards there were with just the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main issue you face with playing with more people is the game's built-in time limit (when you run out of city cards). I've never tried altering the rules to better accommodate more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't remember where I saw it posted. But I believe the creators of the game said that they limited the number of players to such a small number as playtesters didn't find it to be fun having to wait so long between turns. If a player traveled to a city to treat diseases on their next turn. A game with five other players meant that ten more infection cards would be played before they had a change to clear anything up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5424" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T07:30:12.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16632" CreationDate="2014-05-18T14:12:31.443" Score="9" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;What unique features do Cities and Knights and Seafarer's expansions add to the original game?&#xA;How do they make the game more playable/interesting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T18:07:59.857" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:33:00.847" Title="What are the primary enhancements Cities and Knights and Seafarer's add on to the original Settler's of Catan?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-18T15:32:59.890" Score="3" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avacyn%2C%20Angel%20of%20Hope&quot;&gt;Avacyn, Angel of Hope&lt;/a&gt; has indestructible and gives the other creatures he controls indestructible as well. if it is tapped, are his other creatures still indestructible? Example, if he plays avacyn angel of hope and I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Claustrophobia&quot;&gt;Claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt; on it, am I able to kill his other creatures, or do they still have the indestructible ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7631" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T19:06:06.017" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T13:45:33.140" Title="Does Avacyn, Angel of Hope's ability continue to work even if tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16628" CreationDate="2014-05-18T15:57:32.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapping has no effect on static abilities such as Avacyn's. All creatures will remain indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability would only work as described if it read &quot;While Avacyn, Angel of Hope is untapped, other permanents you control have indestructible.&quot; or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T13:45:33.140" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T13:45:33.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16628" CreationDate="2014-05-18T16:36:47.040" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;All creatures will remain indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things that being tapped means is that a creature cannot attack, cannot block, and cannot tap to pay for activated abilities. Other than that, tapping has no effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-18T16:40:54.890" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T16:40:54.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2014-05-18T18:34:18.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bomb Decoys. I play an updated version with and 8x10 board and only 30 pcs per side. I always stack 4 bombs on one side and put the flag in the corner with the other two bombs. put your spy near the decoys so when your opponent thinks he has discovered your flag he sends in his ten. your opponent will put several 3s and 1s to uncover ur bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7632" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T18:34:18.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16626" CreationDate="2014-05-18T23:01:48.677" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opinions will always vary, but what I think one can objectively say is that Cities &amp;amp; Knights adds more complexity and variation to the game as it adds several new dimensions: new resource types, new types of knights, new expansion cards and new 'privileges' gained as you expand your principality. So if this type of 'extra dimensions of complexity' is your notion of 'replay value', then C&amp;amp;K would be the extension to go for of the two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it does mean slightly more complex rules to introduce to new players. So if 'replay value' means being able to play with &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; groups of friends a few times rather than the same friends multiple times, this is something to take into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1526" LastActivityDate="2014-05-18T23:01:48.677" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16647" CreationDate="2014-05-19T16:31:49.853" Score="6" ViewCount="1569" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with just two players in vanilla pandemic, what strategies are best when the the player's roles are contingency planner and quarantine specialist? Who should be doing what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7103" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T18:25:02.477" Title="How to win 2 player Pandemic as Quarantine Specialist and Contingency Planner" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16635" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-05-19T16:47:02.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monstrous Miniatures Combat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The raging, fast-paced HORDES game is set in the wilds of the Iron Kingdoms, an environment that combines the richness of traditional fantasy with the excitement of steam power and gunpowder. Across the realm, ancient rivalries among nations are exploding into all-out conflict, and the tameless factions of HORDES have joined the fight, whether to preserve their ancient homelands or with an eye toward conquest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this ferocious 30 mm tabletop miniatures battle game, each player controls a powerful battle-wizard who harnesses the strength and fury of the savage warbeasts that stalk the dark places of the Iron Kingdoms. Through their unique link to these untamed creatures, these warlocks are able to drive them to unparalleled heights of destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;HORDES puts players directly into the maelstrom of war as warlocks and their beast hordes struggle for domination and survival. A game is fought with the powerful jaws and flesh-ripping talons of warbeasts as well as devastating spells wrought by the warlocks themselves and the lethal weapons of their warriors. Only one side can emerge victorious from the carrion-scattered field of war!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T20:58:18.763" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T20:58:18.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16636" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-05-19T16:47:02.097" Score="0" Body="In HORDES, monstrous beasts set upon one another in a bloody clash of tooth and fang that churns the battlefield into a seething sea of carnage. Their masters feed on pain and rage, forging primal energy into a weapon against their enemies." OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2014-05-19T20:58:21.487" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T20:58:21.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5452" CreationDate="2014-05-19T16:50:58.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option besides getting the Mk2 cards is getting the new &lt;a href=&quot;http://privateerpress.com/warroom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;War Room&lt;/a&gt; app, which lets you view the cards in a digital manner.  Also has look-up options for specific rules which can come in very handy.  The app is free, but the full set of cards can cost additional $$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T16:50:58.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15382" CreationDate="2014-05-19T17:45:50.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would have to disagree with youngjohn.  For example: You need a side of potato rule is in play, and the current goal is All you need is love.  If you already have the &quot;Love&quot; keeper in front of you, why haven't you won yet?  Because a creeper card (or lack of a creeper) is affecting your ability to win.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By playing the silver linings new rule, you are effectively doing two things.  Number one, you are saying a creeper card can no longer stop you from winning.  Therefor, NOT having a certain creeper card will not stop you from winning if you have met the goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the need a side of potato rule is a contradictive  rule  to the silver linings.  The one that is played second should superceed the one played first.   Either way, you win if you've met the current goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7636" LastActivityDate="2014-05-19T17:45:50.483" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16640" CreationDate="2014-05-20T07:39:38.257" Score="8" ViewCount="1692" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I haven't been quite able to comprehend how copy effects interact with stuff not printed on the card itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when a creature that was revived with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fated%20Return&quot;&gt;Fated Return&lt;/a&gt; is then copied by, say, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Artisan%20of%20Forms&quot;&gt;Artisan of Forms&lt;/a&gt;? Specifically, does the creature Artisan of Forms becomes have indestructible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T01:19:29.613" Title="Are &quot;permanently&quot; gained abilities copiable?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16639" CreationDate="2014-05-20T09:29:15.937" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Artisan of Forms will not be indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you copy a card, you &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; copy only exactly the printed values of the card you're copying, ignoring everything that's happened to modify it, including the fact that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fated%20Return&quot;&gt;Fated Return&lt;/a&gt; gave that creature indestructible. The exception is when you're copying, say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; that's copying something else - in that case, you become a copy of that too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an example that makes the quirks of this very clear: you can have Artisan of Forms target a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; whilst it's in its creature state, and Artisan of Forms will become &lt;em&gt;a land&lt;/em&gt; (not a creature).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As much appears in the rulings on the Gatherer page of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Artisan%20of%20Forms&quot;&gt;Artisan of Forms&lt;/a&gt; herself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artisan of Forms copies the printed values of the creature plus any copy effects that have been applied to it. It won’t copy any other effects that have changed that creature’s power, toughness, color, and so on. Artisan of Forms won’t copy any counters on the creature, but Artisan of Forms will retain any counters it already had on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If another creature becomes a copy of Artisan of Forms, it will become a copy of whatever Artisan of Forms is currently copying (if anything), plus it will have the triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are derived from rule 706.2 on &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Copying_objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Copying Objects&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;706.2.&lt;/strong&gt; When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics and, for an object on the stack, choices made when casting or activating it (mode, targets, the value of X, whether it was kicked, how it will affect multiple targets, and so on). The &amp;quot;copiable values&amp;quot; are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being name, mana cost, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by “as . . . enters the battlefield” and &amp;quot;as . . . is turned face up&amp;quot; abilities that set characteristics, and by abilities that caused the object to be face down. Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T01:19:29.613" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T01:19:29.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16642" CreationDate="2014-05-20T11:03:20.203" Score="-6" ViewCount="385" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skinshifter&quot;&gt;Skinshifter&lt;/a&gt; in play and your opponent attacks with a 3/3 token. You choose to block with Skinshifter and in response to the block, transform him into a 4/4 rhino creature with trample. Then your opponent (in response to you transforming Skinshifter) plays Magma Jet and targets the now transformed Skinshifter. Can you transform Skinshifter a second time provided you have the mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7638" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T13:28:30.903" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T02:32:07.647" Title="Can I transform Skinshifter twice in one turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16641" CreationDate="2014-05-20T11:33:51.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. the last line of the ability literally states: &quot;Active this ability only once each turn&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T11:55:49.093" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T11:55:49.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16644" CreationDate="2014-05-20T14:32:15.680" Score="3" ViewCount="39753" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some spells and abilities that subtract from a creature's power/toughness: for example, part of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlcerate%5d&quot;&gt;Ulcerate&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;Target creature gets -3/-3 until end of turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the target creature is only a 2/2, is that target destroyed (goes to graveyard) from the -3 toughness given to it? If not what happens, does it stick around with negative toughness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7640" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-20T05:59:19.010" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T20:57:00.727" Title="Can negative toughness effects kill a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16643" CreationDate="2014-05-20T14:41:44.153" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature with 0 or less toughness will be sent to the graveyard immediately, so yes, getting -3/-3 can kill a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is not technically being &quot;destroyed&quot;, it is a different way of sending the creature to the graveyard. This matters for things like regeneration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_Magic_Basic_Rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot;&gt;basic MTG rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your creatures go to your graveyard if the damage they’re dealt &#xA;  in a single turn is equal to or greater than their toughness, &#xA;  or if their toughness is reduced to 0 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-05-20T20:19:44.473" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T20:19:44.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13555" CreationDate="2014-05-20T14:54:39.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem playing with 2 people is that you often don't have time to do anything between turns. You haven't even drawn your cards yet let alone shuffled them, when your opponent says &quot;Prepare&quot; and it's your turn again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a lot of the problem can come from the dungeon deck. If you play with the standard rules there is nothing to stop the 3 strongest monsters in the game from coming up first. Which means you can't beat them. Which means nobody gets xp. So you either just take 20 village turns buying cards or someone has to waste an entire turn failing a fight, allowing someone else first shot at the new monster. Fix this by shuffling weak and medium monsters in the top of the deck with medium and strong monsters in the bottom. This ensures a manageable opening game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main problem with Thunderstone play time is that if you play like me you are talking and laughing and joking with your friend, because this is pretty much the only interaction you will have while playing this game. There is next to nothing you can do to effect your opponents. Which means you're each just playing a game by yourself in the same room as your friend. Which is fine, my games take about 2 hours as well but I'm willing to bet that at least 45 minutes of that is spend socializing. I say let the game take as long as it takes. Set up and take down are long too, so this isn't the game to pull out for a quick go before work anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, and your games will speed up once you and your friends know all the cards well. In the beginning I spent half the time reading cards or checking to see what the the higher level heroes do. That will cut down the game time significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7642" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T14:54:39.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-20T16:45:55.547" Score="8" ViewCount="604" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4975/which-computer-board-game-designer-works-best-for-card-games&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3236/on-demand-cards-deck-printing-service&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12174/which-program-to-chose-when-designing-my-own-cards&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4680/whats-the-fastest-way-to-print-a-card-game-prototype&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;all give good leads, but I'm looking for something with a few specific features:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I want a database that does all the basic database things--store cards, find cards, add cards, modify cards, etc.I don't need a rigid schema system, and I want the flexibility to add features to the (game) system more or less at will.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't need any evaluation or resolution features (just want to be able to track and edit the game in a quasi-sane manner, not play it on the computer).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do want a collection of cards -&gt; printable sheet feature. Nothing fancy, but I would like to be able to specify a group of cards from the database, and produce something that can be printed out, cut up, and stuck in sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bonus points for flexibility and extensibility, as usual, so that as I move out of pure prototyping I don't have to reinvest in a whole system. For example, at the moment, art is not critical, but I imagine that I'll want to handle that once I have mechanics of play working &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GUIs are optional&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even more bonus points for Mac (or *nix) and open source&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus far, the various systems I've seen all seem to address one or more of the problems but are missing another major component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a fair hand at programming and systems design, so I may end up building a simple(ish) command-line tool, but here's to hoping someone else thinks like me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7644" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T11:36:50.940" Title="is there card game prototyping platform to track, change, print?" Tags="|game-design|custom-game-pieces|prototyping|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16634" CreationDate="2014-05-20T18:25:02.477" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contingency planner should ALWAYS have an event card on his character. This frees up cards in his/her hand. It's hard to say whether one or the other should be dedicated to finding cures, it'll most likely depend on who can draw similar colors. The Contingency planner will have a slight advantage in holding cards for cures since both player's event cards can be played then saved on his character card for later use (one at a time obviously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quarantine Specialist obviously needs to go where the most cubes are being placed, and would probably be wise to be in charge of erecting research centers to allow quick access to the regions most susceptible to outbreaks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The tricky dynamic with 2 players is, of course, not wasting cards by having to discard from being over the limit which can often happen when a player is saving for more than 1 cure. So open communication will be critical to prevent those kinds of situations from happening. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7645" LastActivityDate="2014-05-20T18:25:02.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16641" CreationDate="2014-05-21T02:32:07.647" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, with Rings of Brighthearth, you can manage to transform Skinshifter twice in one turn. (But do note that you can't change modes on the copied ability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T02:32:07.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-21T06:45:24.473" Score="5" ViewCount="2218" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guttersnipe&quot;&gt;Guttersnipe&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell, Guttersnipe deals 2 damage to each opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hidden%20Strings&quot;&gt;Hidden Strings&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may tap or untap target permanent, then you may tap or untap another target permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cypher (Then you may exile this spell card encoded on a creature you control. Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of the encoded card without paying its mana cost.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; deals two damage to a target opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have Guttersnipe on the field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Hidden Strings; cipher it on to him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Shock instant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because shock causes guttersnipe to deal damage, this activates the cypher ability and you can now cast hidden strings, which will then cause him to deal two more damage, which allows you to cast hidden strings, which deals two damage, which allows you cast to hidden strings, which deals two damage.... and well you know where this is going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this combo work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7649" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T13:04:39.910" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T20:45:46.843" Title="Would Guttersnipe plus a cyphered card result in an infinite loop of damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16649" CreationDate="2014-05-21T07:10:15.310" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that doesn't amount to an infinite loop, because of this term in cipher's definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever that creature deals &lt;strong&gt;combat damage&lt;/strong&gt; to a player [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(That's an extract from the reminder text, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Cipher&quot;&gt;actual rules definition&lt;/a&gt; is virtually identical.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Combat_damage&quot;&gt;Combat damage&lt;/a&gt; is just the damage dealt during the combat damage step. In other words, it's the damage Guttersnipe would deal if you tapped it to attack, and it wasn't blocked and ended up attacking the player. The damage dealt by Guttersnipe's triggered ability does not count as combat damage, so it doesn't trigger cipher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your combo would work if cipher just triggered off any damage at all, in which case it'd say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever that creature deals damage to a player [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T07:18:42.573" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T07:18:42.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16651" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16722" CreationDate="2014-05-21T09:15:56.403" Score="7" ViewCount="12650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an optimal strategy for storing Eldritch Horror cards and tokens so that game play is facilitated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking for answers that including &quot;zip bags&quot; and other things to keep the game element safer while is storage. Although, a strategy that works well for both cases will clearly be superior to one that only works for game play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not limiting this to commercial solutions. I am quiet happy to build your custom made solution if you release the specification/plans of course!  Although, it it requires a 3D printer, more power to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T13:28:25.053" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T10:15:43.920" Title="Storage for Eldritch Horror" Tags="|storage|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15529" CreationDate="2014-05-21T11:18:34.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per se it should be possible to mix german/english or in your case serbian/english editions. But you should have a close look which edition you're buying (also depending on which edition you already own) there are even (minor) compatibility problems inbetween english editions (this should apply on german editions too)&#xA;Also hava a look on this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/1651/7650&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides the form factor english editions of the game have those (in my eyes ugly) white borders around their tiles. Additionally other graphics are used (in my opinion those are shrill compared to the german ones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I could help you slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7650" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T11:18:34.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16651" CreationDate="2014-05-21T13:17:24.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't what you want to hear, but I actually built a wooden box for this because there was nothing on the market I could find that would do the job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't massively complex - create partitions that could hold decks of cards on their sides, and squarer partitions for counters, dice and the like. There's an elastic strap in the lid for the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way you can open the box, set out the board and everything you need is accessible right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only commercial thing I can think of that might help is a brochure storage rack, the sort you see in shops and libraries. But the compartments are probably too large to be ideal. Here's a selection grabbed at random from Google:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.staples.com/Literature-Holders-Desktop/cat_CL142157&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.staples.com/Literature-Holders-Desktop/cat_CL142157&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A part of me thinks FFG is deliberately putting out games with baked-in storage problems just so they can sell us custom boxes further down the line. X-Wing, I'm looking at you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastEditorUserId="3323" LastEditDate="2014-05-21T13:22:34.457" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T13:22:34.457" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13555" CreationDate="2014-05-21T14:31:40.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To address Draygarth's point above, we play with a house rule that I found on BGG years ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the Thunderstone to one side. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever you are supposed to draw a monster card from the dungeon deck, draw three and bring the weakest one into the hall and discard the other two. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the dungeon deck runs out (1/3 of the way through the game), shuffle the discarded monsters into a new dungeon deck and shuffle the Thunderstone into the bottom half of that.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now play with the rules as normal, just drawing the top card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing with traps or treasures, then I discard them in phase 2 above unless they are the first of the three cards drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way for the first 1/3 of the game you get weaker monsters which are more achievable with your weak initial party. It speeds things up quite a lot in my experience, and avoids the occasional game where you draw three rock hard monsters at the beginning and everything grinds to a halt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T14:31:40.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16656" CreationDate="2014-05-21T14:52:06.853" Score="5" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175111&quot;&gt;Sedris, the Traitor King&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370418&quot;&gt;Grinning Ignus&lt;/a&gt; in my graveyard. I use the unearth ability Sedris grants to unearth my Grinning Ignus. Can I activate the Grinning Ignus's ability, even though if I try to pay the cost the Ignus will get exiled instead of going to my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do the same with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=108863&quot;&gt;Ovinomancer&lt;/a&gt;, provided I activate its ability in response to its enters-the-battlefield trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, is there a rule that governs what happens when a replacement effect modifies the payment of a cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T16:31:19.893" Title="Unearth and Return-to-Hand costs" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16655" CreationDate="2014-05-21T16:31:19.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; activate Grinning Ignus's ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.11. The actions performed when paying a cost may be modified by effects. Even if they are, meaning the actions that are performed don’t match the actions that are called for, the cost has still been paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: A player controls Psychic Vortex, an enchantment with a cumulative upkeep cost of &amp;quot;Draw a card,&amp;quot; and Obstinate Familiar, a creature that says &amp;quot;If you would draw a card, you may skip that draw instead.&amp;quot; The player may decide to pay Psychic Vortex’s cumulative upkeep cost and then draw no cards instead of drawing the appropriate amount. The cumulative upkeep cost has still been paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not clear on what situation you're describing with Ovinomancer; assuming Sedris isn't involved, you can always activate its ability and return it to your hand before its ETB ability resolves (assuming you give it haste), and when the ETB ability resolves, you have the choice of either doing nothing or unsummoning three basic lands.  This is not a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-21T16:31:19.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-21T22:58:39.310" Score="1" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know that if I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; on the field and a creature spell is countered, it still counts as dying and Athreos's effect still kicks in. I was told it's because the creature (even though it never officially hit the battlefield) will still go into my graveyard. Would this also be true for discarded creatures, since they will go into the graveyard and not exile? I am using Athreos with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pack%20Rat&quot;&gt;Pack Rat&lt;/a&gt; and I was wondering if it would give me the ability to clone Pack Rat for basically free so long as he is on the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7656" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T01:03:37.003" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T12:04:30.800" Title="Does Athreos work on countered or discarded creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16657" CreationDate="2014-05-21T23:52:54.390" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you were told about Athreos triggering for countered creature spells is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official definition of &quot;dies&quot; in the comprehensive rules is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means &quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a countered creature spell is never a creature on the battlefield, it didn't &quot;die&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, a discarded creature card would not trigger Athreos either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, note the terminology here: &quot;creatures&quot; only exist on the battlefield; they are &quot;creature spells&quot; when on the stack, and merely &quot;creature cards&quot; or &quot;creature tokens&quot; elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T12:04:30.800" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T12:04:30.800" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16661" CreationDate="2014-05-22T07:53:26.647" Score="4" ViewCount="8902" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first few games of Forbidden Island last night, and one of the roles we played was the Diver. We weren't 100% sure of the meaning of his special ability, so I wanted to ask if anyone had any clarification to make sure we play correctly in future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Diver's ability (from memory, edit if incorrect) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Diver may move through any number of flooded or sunken tiles for 1 action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does this mean that the Diver can move to any land tile connected by flooded/sunken tiles? Or does it mean that moving through any number of such tiles is 1 action, and emerging onto land again is a second action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to illustrate, here is an example:&#xA;let &lt;strong&gt;X&lt;/strong&gt; be a sunken tile, &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt; be a regular tile, and &lt;strong&gt;FT&lt;/strong&gt; be a flooded tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T1 - FT1 - X - FT2 - T2&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does moving the diver from T1 to T2 constitute 1 action, or 2 (one to move to FT2, and one to move the last square)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T13:29:44.203" Title="How does Diver movement work in forbidden island?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16614" CreationDate="2014-05-22T12:48:31.383" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We frequently play games for the first time and as a result often get the rules wrong. Our solution to this problem, when we realise a rules infraction too late to reasonably unwind it, is to continue the game allowing all players to repeat the error - so we're all playing on a level playing field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. in your case continue the game but let other players place two of the same building into an area for the rest of that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1397" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T12:48:31.383" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16659" CreationDate="2014-05-22T13:29:44.203" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You got it right the first time. In your example, it takes the diver 1 move action to go from T1 to T2. The Diver is incredibly useful for quickly getting around the island while it's flooded. It's not as overpowered as it would initially seem... until tiles start sinking, the Diver hasn't any other special abilities. In later stages of the game, you can ensure he'll probably survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T13:29:44.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16663" CreationDate="2014-05-22T13:57:07.873" Score="27" ViewCount="14300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steel%20Overseer&quot;&gt;Steel Overseer&lt;/a&gt; out. I tap the Steel Overseer for his ability to put +1/+1 counters while my Blinkmoth is a creature, and it gains a counter. After my Blinkmoth goes back into a land, does it keep the counter, or does it lose it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T14:48:02.323" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:40:02.483" Title="Can non-creature permanents have +1/+1 counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16662" CreationDate="2014-05-22T13:59:55.850" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lands (any permanent, really) can have +1/+1 counters just fine. In fact, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Reborn&quot;&gt;Llanowar Reborn&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield with one! The counter(s) will not go away just because your blinkmoth stops being a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the +1/+1 counter doesn't &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; anything until the land becomes a creature again, but the +1/+1 counter will still be there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T16:17:26.733" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T16:17:26.733" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16681" CreationDate="2014-05-22T17:59:38.903" Score="3" ViewCount="5142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game of Lords of Waterdeep and received The Xanathar as my lord, who in my opinion is the worst of them all.  My question is are there any viable strategies to win with the Xanathar, knowing that my opponents will avoid having minimal if any corruption tokens at the end of the game?  When playing this lord I always seem to end up in dead last, due to not having access to any bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6000" LastActivityDate="2019-01-13T14:44:02.907" Title="Are there any Xanathar Strategies for Skullport" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16671" CreationDate="2014-05-22T18:10:19.113" Score="3" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a deck that relies a lot on the Scavenge&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; mechanic, and I was wondering if there was a good, effective way to improve the Power of creatures in the graveyard, so that I get more +1/+1 counters when I Scavenge it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpsejack%20Menace&quot;&gt;Corpsejack Menace&lt;/a&gt; for +1/+1 multiplication, but it struck me as a neat idea to be able to pump up the Power of, e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Slitherhead&quot;&gt;Slitherhead&lt;/a&gt; to get more “free” +1/+1 counters. I’m playing Standard (as of writing, &lt;em&gt;Return to Ravnica,&lt;/em&gt; M14, and &lt;em&gt;Theros&lt;/em&gt;), but I’d be happy to hear about cards in other formats that work. I’d appreciate markings of the legal formats for any card suggestions, since I’m kind of new to Magic and am not familiar with older blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Creature ability: pay a cost and exile the creature from the graveyard, add a number of +1/+1 counters equal to the creature’s Power to another creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T19:44:43.177" Title="Improve the Power of creatures in the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16667" CreationDate="2014-05-22T18:15:19.953" Score="1" ViewCount="2557" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I understand things, if my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Korozda%20Gorgon&quot;&gt;Korozda Gorgon&lt;/a&gt; gives −1/−1 counter to a creature that has a +1/+1 counter on it, as a state-based effect the −1/−1 cancels one of the +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens at the end of turn? Does the −1/−1 “go away” by the creature getting its +1/+1 back, or is that gone forever now that it’s been annihilated by the −1/−1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T21:09:20.697" Title="Permanent +1/+1, and −1/−1 until end of turn" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16666" CreationDate="2014-05-22T18:28:40.040" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you've misunderstood - there's nothing to cancel here. Korozda Gorgon doesn't hand out any counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only effects that explicitly say &amp;quot;counter&amp;quot;, like &amp;quot;remove a +1/+1 counter from...&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;place a -1/-1 counter on...&amp;quot; use counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An effect that grants ±X/±Y doesn't involve counters, whether it be until the end of the turn like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Korozda%20Gorgon&quot;&gt;Korozda Gorgon&lt;/a&gt;'s &amp;quot;Target creature gets -1/-1 until end of turn.&amp;quot; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Honor%20of%20the%20Pure&quot;&gt;Honor of the Pure&lt;/a&gt;'s &amp;quot;White creatures you control get +1/+1.&amp;quot; These effects just modify power/toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it's true that -1/-1 &lt;em&gt;counters&lt;/em&gt; cancel out with +1/+1 &lt;em&gt;counters&lt;/em&gt; as a state-based action, Korozda Gorgon never places a -1/-1 counter on anything, so there's nothing interesting going on here. The +1/+1 counter never goes away, and the creature really does just get -1/-1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically, if Korozda Gorgon said &amp;quot;...put a -1/-1 counter on target creature. At the end of the turn, remove a -1/-1 counter from that creature.&amp;quot; and you used it on a creature with a +1/+1 counter, then they'd cancel when the -1/-1 counter is added, and then at the end of the turn there'd be no counter to remove and nothing would happen. But it doesn't say that, and cards generally won't. Counters are used when the effect is meant to last: you put the counter on the creature and it stays there as a probably-permanent reminder of the effect. Nothing ever says &amp;quot;put a -1/-1 counter on target creature until end of turn&amp;quot;; it'll always say &amp;quot;target creature gets -1/-1 until end of turn&amp;quot; like Korozda Gorgon does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks to Kevin in the comments, there are a couple cards that do this: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bounty%20of%20the%20Hunt&quot;&gt;Bounty of the Hunt&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shambling%20Swarm&quot;&gt;Shambling Swarm&lt;/a&gt;. They're definitely the exception though. I suspect if they were printed today they would not use counters; the text is a lot longer, the unfamiliarity makes it even harder to read, and it doesn't even cause very much functional difference. And Kevin helpfully pointed out an example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeds%20of%20Strength&quot;&gt;Seeds of Strength&lt;/a&gt; avoids using counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-05-22T21:09:20.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-22T21:09:20.697" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16842" CreationDate="2014-05-22T19:31:48.150" Score="2" ViewCount="4395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm asking this because I can't find an up-to-date and credible source of information on the subject (since it has apparently changed at least once over the years). My question is, when does instant death take place during wound allocation in close combat (and shooting for that matter)? Do you allocate wounds and THEN apply instant death (meaning some of it could potentially be wasted), or do you allocate a wound, apply instant death, then allocate another and apply instant death, and so on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say we have a 3 Centurions in CC with a Bloodthirster. The BT scores three wounds, one of which being ID. Do we, (a) apply the ID wound to the first Centurion, apply the ID rule and remove him, then apply the next two wounds to the second Centurion and remove him too, or (b) apply the ID wound and another wound to the first Centurion and remove him (essentially wasting the ID) then apply the third wound to the second Centurion, leaving him alive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last time I played, years ago, you would choose path &quot;b&quot; and waste the ID. But now I'm being challenged and can't find &lt;em&gt;up-to-date&lt;/em&gt; evidence to support my argument.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7313" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T09:59:07.590" Title="WH/40k - The age-old instant death and multiwound models question" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16665" CreationDate="2014-05-22T21:44:31.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I split your question into three, because I thought it was less ambiguous that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to put a creature &lt;em&gt;with improved power&lt;/em&gt; into the graveyard?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one that we know of. Someone mentioned &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullbriar%2C%20the%20Walking%20Grave&quot;&gt;Skullbriar, the Walking Grave&lt;/a&gt; in the comments. Skullbriar takes his counters with him to the graveyard, where they continue to modify his power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to &lt;em&gt;improve the power&lt;/em&gt; of a creature in the graveyard?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the question you actually asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I can think of to actually &lt;em&gt;change&lt;/em&gt; the power of a creature that is in the graveyard is to play with creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellheart%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Spellheart Chimera&lt;/a&gt;, whose power and toughness are calculated. These are static abilities that function in any zone, including the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had Spellheart in your graveyard and then you played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grisly%20Salvage&quot;&gt;Grisly Salvage&lt;/a&gt; and flipped over 5 instants, Spellheart would suddenly have 5 (plus one from the Grisly Salvage itself) more power than he had before, thereby &lt;em&gt;improving&lt;/em&gt; his power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to put &lt;em&gt;high power&lt;/em&gt; creatures in the graveyard?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can discard a creature card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bearer%20of%20the%20Heavens&quot;&gt;Bearer of the Heavens&lt;/a&gt; by having too many cards, or by being forced to discard it with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt; (which can target yourself). You can also mill with a card like Grisly Salvage, mentioned earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer I think you were hoping for was a card like &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Target creature in your graveyard gets +3/+3 until end of turn&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; (a buff) or &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;becomes a 10/10 until end of turn&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; (a static ability) or even something that affects the power of &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; creatures in your graveyard. No card like that exists. I doubt one ever will, because the &amp;quot;status&amp;quot; of cards in your graveyard would become unmanageable. Cards like Spellheart Chimera are exceptional in that their status is printed directly on the card, making it impossible to forget.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T19:44:43.177" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T19:44:43.177" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16673" CreationDate="2014-05-23T00:58:27.340" Score="7" ViewCount="4315" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20from%20the%20Loam&quot;&gt;Life from the Loam&lt;/a&gt;s in my graveyard. Can I dredge twice — once for each of the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20from%20the%20Loams&quot;&gt;Life from the Loams&lt;/a&gt; — when drawing my first card on my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume the answer is no, but I figured I'd ask nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T23:45:27.280" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T23:45:27.280" Title="Can you dredge twice for one card draw?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16672" CreationDate="2014-05-23T01:52:11.733" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.6. &lt;strong&gt;If an event is replaced, it never happens.&lt;/strong&gt; A modified event occurs instead, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can’t be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.7. &lt;strong&gt;If a replacement effect would replace an event, but that event never happens, the replacement effect simply doesn’t do anything.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you choose to apply the first Life from the Loam's ability, you are no longer drawing a card; you are instead milling 3 and returning the card to your hand.  Thus, as soon as you apply one replacement effect (and replacement effects must be applied one after the other), there is no card draw for the other Life from the Loam to replace, and so you can't dredge twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T01:52:11.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16674" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-23T07:35:29.157" Score="-3" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm no expert in Board Game making and wanted to ask you people a question. I'm making a board game me and couple of friends can play. The problem is that i decided to keep 200 tiles for a very big experience unlike Snakes &amp;amp; Ladders which has only 100 tiles and LUDO which is full of repetition. Please don't take this the wrong way i love these games. So back to my game i decided that there would be a total of 90 tiles which includes 35 Good, 29 Bad &amp;amp; 24 Special tiles. Now i had envisioned that every floor which has 10 spaces each would have a even number of tiles regardless of them being good,bad or special but once i divided the total number of tiles which is 88 with 20 the number of floors i got 4.4. Its logically impossible to have 4.4 tiles on each floor. How can i solve this problem. &#xA;Thank You In Advance for the answer &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7665" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T09:06:36.493" Title="Creating A Board Game" Tags="|game-design|custom-game-pieces|game-development|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-05-23T14:33:10.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16674" CreationDate="2014-05-23T09:06:36.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now i had envisioned that every floor which has 10 spaces each would have a even number of tiles regardless of them being good,bad or special but once i divided the total number of tiles which is 88 with 20 the number of floors i got 4.4. Its logically impossible to have 4.4 tiles on each floor. How can i solve this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a different number of tiles, then, that gives you a whole number result. Or simply don't use all the tiles - the leftover will result in each game potentially skewing toward more bad, good or special tiles than average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T09:06:36.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16677" CreationDate="2014-05-23T10:30:28.570" Score="24" ViewCount="30567" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hold a 20-sided die (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icosahedron&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;icosahedron&lt;/a&gt;) in my hand. As with any other die, to help fairness, values on opposing sides sum to twice the mean (as explained &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13398/why-do-the-opposing-sides-of-a-d20-generally-add-up-to-21&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in a &quot;normal&quot; 6-sided die, there are norms about the numbering order (as mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twenty-sided_polyhedral_die#Non-cubic&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). My question is this: is there any standard way of numbering the faces of the 20-sided die? For example, is 1 &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; between 7, 13 and 19? (these are the values that I see in the die that I am holding at the moment). If so: can you see a reasoning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some reasoning would be the take further step the effort to make it fair; however, I don't have any rule in mind that will achieve this end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally: if there is no standard, is there any set of standard ways? For example, I can't imagine anyone putting 2 just next to 1, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(this question may be asked about other die types as well...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6904" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2023-01-09T16:56:44.687" Title="Is there a standard way to number the faces of a 20-sided die?" Tags="|dice|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16676" CreationDate="2014-05-23T13:57:14.437" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that we are speaking about a D20 that makes some attempt to roll fairly, such as the ones used in D&amp;amp;D. This is different from the aptly named &quot;spindown&quot; D20 which is numbered in a simple spiral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why do opposing faces add up to 21?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://everything2.com/title/d20&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Everything2.com's article on D20&lt;/a&gt;, opposing sides add up to 21 so that the numbers most distant from each other to appear on opposite sides of the die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ok, now we have 10 pairs of 21. How do we arrange them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are engraving the numbers, you'll have to carve out more material for some numbers than for others. The more you dig out, the lighter that side becomes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything2 advises that we arrange these pairs in a way that heavy sides are next to light sides, but they provide no actual arrangement. In fact, I cannot find any actual mathematics behind what the best possible arrangement actually is. After a substantial amount of searching, I have concluded that the &quot;standard&quot; arrangement we know today probably originated from D&amp;amp;D, but I can't back this up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of standard arrangement, here is the actual answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F5siI.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dicecollector.com/MY_PAPER.HTM&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DiceCollector.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T13:57:14.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16679" CreationDate="2014-05-23T16:53:23.217" Score="1" ViewCount="7809" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will of the Council&lt;/em&gt; -- Starting with you, each player votes for X. The X with the most votes does YZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when you have only two players, therefore making it in some cases impossible for there to be a larger amount of votes than the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Council's Judgement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Will of the Council&lt;/em&gt; -- Starting with you, each player votes for a nonland permanent you don't control. Exile each permanent with the most votes or tied for the most votes. With two players, one might for one permanent, and the other for another permanent. What happens then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-05-23T17:23:58.177" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T03:20:02.873" Title="What does Will of the Council do with 2 Players?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16678" CreationDate="2014-05-23T17:01:50.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card itself states what to do in the case of a tie. In the example of Council's Judgement, it says &quot;or tied for the most votes&quot;. This means that if 2 different permanents gets 1 vote each, then both of them will be exiled because they both are tied for the most votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not only an issue in 2 players, but could occur with any number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T17:01:50.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-23T17:04:26.247" Score="4" ViewCount="17598" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are some ramp cards for White or Blue decks (excluding High Tide in Blue)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Formats: All excluding Vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6980" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T00:23:44.293" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T00:23:44.293" Title="Mana Ramp for White and Blue?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-05-26T19:01:49.017" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16664" CreationDate="2014-05-23T17:54:42.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, you should be looking to take more actions that give you corruption than the other players. For all players, these actions give more resources than other actions in exchange for an end-game penalty. For The Xanathar, this end-game penalty is less than it is for other players. If you end the game with no corruption tokens with The Xanathar, then you haven't taken any advantage of his strategy, and you have just played the way you would have with any other Lord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end the game with 10 corruption tokens, and no one else has any, then you will get -40 from the penalty, and 40 from The Xanathar's bonus. It is NOT accurate in this case to say that you got no bonus from The Xanathar. Rather, you got a 40 point bonus. The -40 that you got is theoretically offset by the extra-powerful actions and quests that you had throughout the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While other players will be taking those extra powerful actions and quests sometimes, they will also be spending other actions to get rid of corruption. Either way, this means that the player who ends with the most corruption should have gotten more out of their actions throughout the game than other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that you should go crazy with taking corruption. If you have 19 corruption tiles, for -7 each, then the bonus isn't going to be enough to save you from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, keep in mind that The Xanathar is more difficult to play than the other Lords, and it very well may be weaker in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few threads where this is discussed in depth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rpggeek.com/thread/1139681/how-to-win-with-the-xanathar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How to win with the Xanathar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1026804/xanathar-halaster-sangalor-new-lord-cards-broken&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xanathar, Halaster, Sangalor: New lord cards broken?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1050138/the-xanathar/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Xanathar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-23T17:54:42.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18766" CreationDate="2014-05-23T17:56:01.417" Score="3" ViewCount="2388" Body="&lt;p&gt;My gaming group has finished all of the official MoM scenarios a couple of times, and have been looking for some good custom fan-made ones to try out. However, I'm not even sure where to start looking, or how to tell if a given scenario is any good. Where do I find good custom scenarios for the game, and/or how do I tell if a scenario is good?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5970" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T01:09:30.573" Title="Mansions of Madness, Custom Scenarios: where to start?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16678" CreationDate="2014-05-24T03:20:02.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules-wise, Gendolkari is right; the result is whatever the &quot;tie&quot; result is. This is important because strategically speaking, the outcome of the vote should generally be predictable in two-player. For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example you gave, you will pick a permanent. That permanent is getting destroyed no matter what because it will at least tie for first, meaning your opponent should only vote for something else if they have something they want to sacrifice (&quot;I vote for my own Hatching Plans&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the cards with an either/or effect, they should be treated as though they have the &quot;tie&quot; effect because that's going to be optimal in the game-theoretic sense. As a specific example, consider Tyrant's Choice (&quot;Death&quot; -&gt; each opponent sacs a creature, &quot;Torture&quot; -&gt; each opponent loses 4 life, tie goes to &quot;Torture&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want your opponent to lose 4 life, you can choose &quot;Torture&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want your opponent to lose a creature, your opponent can still pay the 4 life by choosing &quot;Torture&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If &quot;Death&quot; is chosen, that means both players chose &quot;Death&quot;. This means that either &quot;Death&quot; and &quot;Torture&quot; had identical EV (unlikely), or both of you thought &quot;Death&quot; was preferable and one of you is wrong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Therefore you can't ever vote for &quot;Death&quot; unless you think your opponent will believe &quot;Death&quot; to be preferable to &quot;Torture&quot; and also be wrong in that belief.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By similar reasoning, if you vote &quot;Death&quot;, your opponent can only vote &quot;Death&quot; if they believe that you're trying to trick them, but made a mistake instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Therefore, if both players think the other player will always vote correctly, &quot;Death&quot; can &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; win the vote.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T03:20:02.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16684" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-24T06:20:45.237" Score="13" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation is just as stated in the title: my opponent controls &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=eidolon%20of%20blossoms&quot;&gt;Eidolon of Blossoms&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Eidolon of Blossoms or another enchantment enters the battlefield under your control, draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I target the Eidolon of Blossoms with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380439&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Siren&lt;/a&gt;, gaining control of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bestow 5UU (If you cast this card for its bestow cost, it's an&#xA;  Aura spell with enchant creature. It becomes a creature again if it's&#xA;  not attached to a creature.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Flying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You control enchanted creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 and has flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I draw a card for Hypnotic Siren coming into play?  My instinct says yes, because of rules 603.6b and 603.6d:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield (and not before&#xA;  then). The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified&#xA;  characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous&#xA;  effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger&#xA;  conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I'm not 100% certain.  (I had it ruled the other way at FNM this evening; at the time I agreed with the ruling, but now I'm less sure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:42:34.033" LastActivityDate="2017-07-28T15:58:56.600" Title="Do I draw a card if I enchant an opponent's Eidolon of Blossoms with Hypnotic Siren?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16684" CreationDate="2014-05-24T07:07:35.473" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;First gatherer note on Hypnotic Siren:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you Hypnotic Siren for its bestow cost, and you gain control of a creature with a constellation ability, that ability will trigger when Hypnotic Siren enters the battlefield. You'll controll [sic] that triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looks like the answer is &quot;yes&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T07:07:35.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16687" CreationDate="2014-05-24T08:26:36.930" Score="9" ViewCount="2828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two of my friends and I are developing a board game based on moving around a hexagonal board. We're testing it on the map printed on 4x A4 sheets merged with adhesive tape. What I'm trying now is to make it on a cork board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you guys have any ideas of how to construct hexagonal grid on a cork board? I've already tried to draw it using a pair of compasses, but it isn't a good idea to do this on a cork board. And the board is pretty big (about three hundred hexagons) so it would take a lot of time to draw each hex separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7676" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:31:33.247" LastActivityDate="2020-08-19T09:57:05.900" Title="How to make a hexagonal board?" Tags="|game-development|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2014-05-24T10:20:40.077" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the easiest way to do this would be to use a stencil:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8hq8y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hexagon stencil&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most craft shops should stock something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paint the cork one colour, then use the stencil with a different colour / shade of paint (spray paint would probably be best).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T10:20:40.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16689" CreationDate="2014-05-24T15:15:29.037" Score="1" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4881&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; says each creature loses it's abilities.  So how does that work with bestowable creatures? Normally, for auras, as I understand it, it depends on the timestamp that the aura vs. the humility came into play. But bestowable creatures are creatures still I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:39:50.587" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:39:50.587" Title="How does Humility affect Bestowable creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16688" CreationDate="2014-05-24T17:54:25.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as a creature card with Bestow is enchanting a creature, it is an Aura Enchantment &lt;em&gt;and not a Creature&lt;/em&gt;. So, Humility will not affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Bestow&quot;&gt;Bestow&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Type_line&quot;&gt;type changing&lt;/a&gt; say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102a&lt;/strong&gt; Bestow represents two static abilities, one that functions while the card with bestow is on the stack and another that functions both while it’s on the stack and while it’s on the battlefield. “Bestow [cost]” means “You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.” and “&lt;em&gt;If you chose to pay this spell’s bestow cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature.&lt;/em&gt; These effects last until one of two things happens: this spell has an illegal target as it resolves or the permanent this spell becomes, becomes unattached.” Paying a card’s bestow cost follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.1a&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects set an object's card type. In such cases, the new card type(s) replaces any existing card types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the Bestow ability removes the Creature type from the object as long as it is in effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.mtgsalvation.com/article/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot;&gt;rule for how continuous effects interact&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1.&lt;/strong&gt; The values of an object's characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. For a token or a copy of a spell or card, that means the values of the characteristics defined by the effect that created it. &lt;em&gt;Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers in the following order&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1a&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 1: Copy effects are applied. See rule 706, &quot;Copying objects.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1b&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 2: Control-changing effects are applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1c&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 3: Text-changing effects are applied. See rule 612, &quot;Text-Changing Effects.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1d&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object's card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1e&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 5: Color-changing effects are applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1f&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Layer 6: Ability-adding effects, ability-removing effects, and effects that say an object can't have an ability are applied.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1g&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 7: Power- and/or toughness-changing effects are applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the static ability that turns Bestow creatures into Auras is applied before Humility's ability, so Humility will not affect those permanents. Any other relevant effects of Bestow Auras, like granting abilities to the creature they enchant, interact with Humility just like normal Auras would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T17:54:25.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16691" CreationDate="2014-05-24T18:02:22.083" Score="6" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 605.3a says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may activate an activated mana ability &lt;strong&gt;whenever he or she has priority&lt;/strong&gt;, whenever he or she is casting a spell or activating an ability that requires a mana payment, or whenever a rule or effect asks for a mana payment, even if it's in the middle of casting or resolving a spell or activating or resolving an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I understand correctly that I can tap &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378506&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pheres-Band Tromper&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378497&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Karametra's Favor&lt;/a&gt; for mana in my opponent's end step even if I do not need any of it? If it works I could trigger inspired every turn without the need for attacking. Some years ago, mana burn definitely would have prevented this kind of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T06:42:59.087" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T06:42:59.087" Title="Can I activate mana abilities even if I don't need the mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16690" CreationDate="2014-05-24T18:18:45.153" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can activate a mana ability even if you do not plan to use the mana. This is often called &lt;em&gt;floating&lt;/em&gt; mana. This means that yes, you can use Karametra's Favor to trigger an Inspired ability every turn. Since the Magic 2010 rules update, mana burn does not exist any more, so keeping this mana in your mana pool until the end of the phase has no downside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-05-24T23:13:00.183" LastActivityDate="2014-05-24T23:13:00.183" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16701" CreationDate="2014-05-24T21:34:17.917" Score="13" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been sitting on the bookshelf in my parents' house since I was a kid, and to this day, I still have no idea what it is or how to play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xGks4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was given to us by my grandma, and the best my dad can remember is that &quot;it's a puzzle of some sort&quot;. He claims to have solved it once, but can't recall anything beyond that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried Googling &quot;Ol' George's Nail Wail&quot; to no avail. Here are a couple more pics from other angles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M0Gct.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/r9nHA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="142" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T20:37:36.667" Title="What is Ol' George's Nail Wail?" Tags="|puzzles|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16680" CreationDate="2014-05-25T08:59:32.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Signet&quot;&gt;Azorius Signet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Land%20Tax&quot;&gt;Land Tax&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Saprazzan%20Skerry&quot;&gt;Saprazzan Skerry&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Remote%20Farm&quot;&gt;Remote Farm&lt;/a&gt; (I don't see people using this, but maybe?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7681" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-25T11:03:23.797" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T11:03:23.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2014-05-25T15:02:43.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After finding out that Better Settlers is available for Andorid only I wrote my own Catan board generator for iOS &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/hex-isle-map-map-generator/id836980306?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hex Isle Map&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. Algorithm tires to create even board by limiting max sum of pips for neighbouring hexes, optionally preventing clustering of same resource hexes, preventing 2:1 ports to be placed next to corresponding resource with high probability.&#xA;&quot;Hex Isle Map&quot; is universal app, support of 3-6 player, and contains both Settlers (First Settlement) and Seafarers scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7682" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T15:02:43.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16698" CreationDate="2014-05-25T17:32:31.050" Score="0" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use a spell in combat (eg: Shriveling) on one turn of combat, and it succeeds, on a subsequent round of combat, does the spell still use up any &quot;hands&quot; for combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After casting a spell, on a subsequent round of combat, is that hand(s) free to use other weapons/spells?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7683" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T03:29:29.067" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T03:29:29.067" Title="Do spells continue to use hand(s) on following rounds of combat?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16697" CreationDate="2014-05-25T19:13:30.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 16:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;A spell or weapon that gives you a bonus (even one that says it lasts until the end of combat) only continues to give you the bonus while you devote the required number of hands to it. You can choose to switch weapons/spells in later combat rounds, but as soon as you “release” a spell or weapon, it stops working for you. Similarly, spells that are refreshed (such as at the beginning of each combat round in the final battle) cease to work and must be re-cast.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T19:13:30.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16684" CreationDate="2014-05-25T23:11:31.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're trying to determine if the ability triggers for when Hypnotic Siren enters the battlefield, so we look at the state of the game immediately after the event occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as Hypnotic Siren enters the battlefield, Eidolon of Blossoms is under your control, and thus its ability will have triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same logic allows two creature cards with &amp;quot;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control&amp;quot; to see each other enter if they enter simultaneously. e.g. Two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bojuka%20Brigand&quot;&gt;Bojuka Brigand&lt;/a&gt; entering simultaneously get two +1/+1 counters each. This is well known behaviour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-26T13:29:21.133" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T13:29:21.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2014-05-25T23:16:52.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can't get a stencil (which I agree is the best way to do it), you could draw an equilateral triangular grid with horizontal, 60° left and 60° right lines, then just ink the hexes on them. 6 triangles = 1 hex, so be prepared to draw them small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-05-25T23:16:52.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16692" CreationDate="2014-05-25T23:39:26.980" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.puzzlesolver.com/puzzle.php?id=5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;nail balance&lt;/a&gt;&quot; puzzle. It is very similar to some of the results of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=nail%20balance%20puzzle&amp;amp;tbm=isch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Google Image Search&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7686" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T01:02:35.197" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T01:02:35.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16702" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16708" CreationDate="2014-05-26T03:12:34.557" Score="1" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really - the team approval phase is the only part where people's agreement/disagreement about who are the spies/etc have substance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What commonly happens is that two of three people will be arguing about something, and it will be a bit of a stalemate, and someone else saying 'Just vote!'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should happen here? How do you decide when the vote should happen, or whether to keep arguing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T19:14:15.407" Title="Deciding when to vote for team approval when people are disagreeing." Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2014-05-26T03:48:09.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;no-trade reverse robber&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No trade&lt;/strong&gt; is straight forward enough. No trading with other players is allowed. This means all the negotiation in turns is removed, which means you're often just rolling, picking up your resources, and passing the dice. You are still allowed to trade with the bank/ports. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reverse robber&lt;/strong&gt;. When you roll a 7, you are not allowed to put the robber on anyone else, unless you forced to. ie. You must either place the robber on an empty tile, or place it on your own tile. If there are no empty tiles, or no tiles that aren't solely occupied by you, then you may put it on a tile that you share with someone, and steal from them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two variants of this rule. RR is stricter and says whenever you move the robber, whether by 7 or by knight, you must place it on yourself/empty tile. RR7 says that you're allowed to place the robber where you want, when you're playing a knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect this rule has, is that the 6/8s tend not to be blocked, so resources flow more freely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T03:48:09.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2014-05-26T04:03:16.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using an odd strategy, or handicap your starting position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both your starting settlements must be on the coast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're going to be the sheep king. Play such that you're maximising the amount of sheep you produce, and still try to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T04:03:16.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="567" CreationDate="2014-05-26T04:09:40.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a social question, akin to 'How do I get my guest to offer to do the dishes', or 'How do I convince my housemates to put their dishes in the dishwasher?'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people are better at social cues than others, and in any social situation, people may not be aware at first that they're breaking social rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer, is to provide social cues, that they pick up without losing face. Make light of that they're dragging the game out, while keeping the mood light and fun. without making a drama of it. Hopefully they'll pick up on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term we usually use is '&lt;strong&gt;Quick game is a good game!&lt;/strong&gt;'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T04:09:40.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16680" CreationDate="2014-05-26T08:15:24.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;White and Blue don't have much in the way of mana ramp. However, since you're looking at everything but Vintage, you do have some options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White cards dealing with land tend towards restoring balance, and as such there are several card which can only get you land if an opponent has more already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knight%20of%20the%20White%20Orchid&quot;&gt;Knight of the White Orchid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kor%20Cartographer&quot;&gt;Kor Cartographer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Lieges&quot;&gt;Oath of Lieges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Planar%20Birth&quot;&gt;Planar Birth&lt;/a&gt; (if you can dump lands into your graveyard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue can, of course, &lt;em&gt;steal&lt;/em&gt; land. It also has several card which cheat permanents into play, and happen to include land as an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Annex&quot;&gt;Annex&lt;/a&gt; (in addition to many other cards which can steal any kind of permanent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbiter%20of%20the%20Ideal&quot;&gt;Arbiter of the Ideal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Braids%2C%20Conjurer%20Adept&quot;&gt;Braids, Conjurer Adept&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreamscape%20Artist&quot;&gt;Dreamscape Artist&lt;/a&gt; (this is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Harrow&quot;&gt;Harrow&lt;/a&gt;, both color shifted and turned into a spellshaper at the same time; Planar Chaos be wacky)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Dominion&quot;&gt;Eternal Dominion&lt;/a&gt; (of course, you don't need mana for casting spells afterwards, but you could still use mana for activating abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Show%20and%20Tell&quot;&gt;Show and Tell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to adding more land to the battlefield, you can get more mileage out of your lands. &amp;quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Twiddle&quot;&gt;Twiddle&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; effects are fairly common in blue, and Urza block had a slew of creatures and spells which would untap the same number of lands as their own mana cost, making the spell very nearly free, or if you had lands that tap for more than one mana, you could get more mana than you otherwise would have had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloud%20of%20Faeries&quot;&gt;Cloud of Faeries&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frantic%20Search&quot;&gt;Frantic Search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Great%20Whale&quot;&gt;Great Whale&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Palinchron&quot;&gt;Palinchron&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Peregrine%20Drake&quot;&gt;Peregrine Drake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reset&quot;&gt;Reset&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rewind&quot;&gt;Rewind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snap&quot;&gt;Snap&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Spiral&quot;&gt;Time Spiral&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Treachery&quot;&gt;Treachery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turnabout&quot;&gt;Turnabout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also reduce your costs; you don't actually have more mana, but you can do more with the mana you have. (Affinity for Artifacts in particular is on many Blue cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcane%20Melee&quot;&gt;Arcane Melee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ballyrush%20Banneret&quot;&gt;Ballyrush Banneret&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20of%20the%20Absolute&quot;&gt;Council of the Absolute&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daru%20Warchief&quot;&gt;Daru Warchief&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Etherium%20Sculptor&quot;&gt;Etherium Sculptor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grand%20Arbiter%20Agustin%20IV&quot;&gt;Grand Arbiter Agustin IV&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20War&quot;&gt;Herald of War&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hero%20of%20Iroas&quot;&gt;Hero of Iroas&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistform%20Warchief&quot;&gt;Mistform Warchief&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stonybrook%20Banneret&quot;&gt;Stonybrook Banneret&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stormscape%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Stormscape Familiar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunscape%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Sunscape Familiar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warden%20of%20Evos%20Isle&quot;&gt;Warden of Evos Isle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, artifacts can do all of the above, from putting land onto the battlefield (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burnished%20Hart&quot;&gt;Burnished Hart&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Explorers%20Scope&quot;&gt;Explorers Scope&lt;/a&gt;), to tapping for mana (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sol%20Ring&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Ingot&quot;&gt;Darksteel Ingot&lt;/a&gt;), to making your lands tap for more mana (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gauntlet%20of%20Power&quot;&gt;Gauntlet of Power&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caged%20Sun&quot;&gt;Caged Sun&lt;/a&gt;), to reducing costs (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloud%20Key&quot;&gt;Cloud Key&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Awakening&quot;&gt;Helm of Awakening&lt;/a&gt;), and even Twiddle effects (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Candelabra%20of%20Tawnos&quot;&gt;Candelabra of Tawnos&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Feast%20and%20Famine&quot;&gt;Sword of Feast and Famine&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It ought to be obvious, but this answer is by no means an exhaustive listing of your options. You're not going to vomit a deck full of lands onto the table playing a White/Blue deck, but there are still ways for you to get ahead in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T08:15:24.953" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16662" CreationDate="2014-05-26T16:31:33.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the permanent keeps the counters. Nothing causes them to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only three instances when counters are removed from objects by the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dealing damage to a Planeswalker removes loyalty counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs cancel out +1/+1 and -1/-1 counter pairs by removing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs remove extra counters when a permanent has a limit to how many of a given kind of counters it can have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it. Counters are never removed from objects except in those circumstances or by abilities that instruct you to move or remove them&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's definitely no restriction about which type of counters can be on which type of objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can have +1/+1 counters on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/c13/en/304.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;non-creatures&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can have charge counters on non-artifacts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can have flood counters on non-lands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can even have counters on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/jvc/en/21.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;non-permanents&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an object changes zone, it ceases to exist, and so do any counters on that object. They are physically removed from the physically object (because they ceased to exist in the game), but they are not removed from the object as far as the game is concerned. Abilities that would trigger on counter removal don't trigger, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.2. Counters on an object are not retained if that object moves from one zone to another. The counters are not “removed”; they simply cease to exist. See rule 400.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This includes three keyword abilities that remove counters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fading (fade counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspend (time counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanishing (time counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-02-16T19:40:02.483" LastActivityDate="2018-02-16T19:40:02.483" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16702" CreationDate="2014-05-26T19:14:15.407" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the leader chooses a team, the mechanics say it's time to vote. If people aren't respecting that and keep arguing anyway, the leader should overrule them and force the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the leader tries to rush through a vote &quot;too quickly&quot;, the team is likely to be rejected and the leader likely to fall under suspicion, so this is self-policing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-05-26T19:14:15.407" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-26T21:01:20.393" Score="6" ViewCount="5533" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there are lots of apps (eg: keepscore, scorekeeper, endless variations of those words) that can keep a simple tally for various players for generic games. I am looking for one that can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep track of current scores, for players and/or teams.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would like to be able to track bids for current rounds of many card games, eg: spades, bidwhist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BONUS:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep histories of specific players, win records, stats, etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Integrate a dice and or timer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somewhere to track custom meta-data. For example bidwhist, has a rotating trump suit. I can jot down, Round 1=Spades, 2=H,3=C,4=D, 5=NoTrump, etc...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an IOS app that did some of this, but have yet to find an Android, or BB10 app. Does anyone know of or use one? I hate having to dig up a notepad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="281" LastEditorUserId="281" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T17:59:32.620" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T15:08:42.040" Title="Is anyone aware of any score keeping apps (BB10 or Android) that can keep track of score (including extra meta-data)?" Tags="|scoring|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-26T21:50:34.070" Score="3" ViewCount="1145" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Star Fluxx, can you move your keeper with creeper(s) attached to another player using Teleporter card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T08:22:29.997" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T09:53:51.447" Title="Can you move your keeper with creepers using the teleport card?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16712" CreationDate="2014-05-27T05:41:37.477" Score="5" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast a card with Echo and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4881&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; is in play do I still have to pay the echo cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T08:20:39.720" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T13:25:36.200" Title="How does Humility affect creatures with an Echo cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16711" CreationDate="2014-05-27T06:25:16.047" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not have to pay the echo cost. The comprehensive rules definition of Echo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.29. Echo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.29a Echo is a triggered ability. “Echo [cost]” means “At the beginning of your upkeep, if this permanent came under your control since the beginning of your last upkeep, sacrifice it unless you pay [cost].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.29b Urza block cards with the echo ability were printed without an echo cost. These cards have been given errata in the Oracle card reference; each one now has an echo cost equal to its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, echo is a triggered ability just like any other. It would normally tigger at the beginning of your upkeep, but because of humility, the creature no longer has the ability, so there's no ability to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T06:25:16.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16710" CreationDate="2014-05-27T07:42:00.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Evil, Malfunction and Brain Parasites creepers say &quot;Both cards stay together until discarded&quot;. This clearly means you can only move the keeper with the attached creeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7131" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T07:42:00.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16711" CreationDate="2014-05-27T13:25:36.200" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Echo is an ability of a creature card, and humility says all creatures lose all abilities, so there is no more Echo. Cool right? But your creature is a 1/1 though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T13:25:36.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16716" CreationDate="2014-05-27T13:36:31.233" Score="5" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;EM&lt;/em&gt;) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pharika%20Mender&quot;&gt;Pharika Mender&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;PM&lt;/em&gt;) in my graveyard, and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;GMOA&lt;/em&gt;)on the battlefield. At the end of my opponent's turn, I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rescue%20from%20The%20Underworld&quot;&gt;Rescue from The Underworld&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;RFTU&lt;/em&gt;), sacrificing my &lt;em&gt;GMOA&lt;/em&gt; as the additional cost to cast it. I choose &lt;em&gt;PM&lt;/em&gt; as my target for &lt;em&gt;RFTU&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my upkeep, &lt;em&gt;GMOA&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;PM&lt;/em&gt; enters the battlefield and their trigger are put on the stack. I place &lt;em&gt;PM's&lt;/em&gt; trigger first, and then &lt;em&gt;GMOA's&lt;/em&gt; trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In respond to &lt;em&gt;GMOA's&lt;/em&gt; trigger, my opponent kills &lt;em&gt;GMOA&lt;/em&gt;, and then &lt;em&gt;GMOA's&lt;/em&gt; trigger resolves -- which means &lt;em&gt;PM's&lt;/em&gt; trigger resolves next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;PM's&lt;/em&gt; trigger resolves, am I able to target &lt;em&gt;GMOA&lt;/em&gt; to return it to my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T14:30:09.330" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T14:30:09.330" Title="Pharika's Mender, Gray Merchant of Asphodel, Rescue From The Underworld" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16715" CreationDate="2014-05-27T14:12:36.023" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The targets of abilities and spells are chosen &lt;em&gt;as these go on the stack&lt;/em&gt;, so you should have had a target chosen already even before the merchant died in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T14:12:36.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16719" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:31:19.400" Score="11" ViewCount="2954" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has to sacrifice a creature. He sacrifices a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt;. I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Grave Betrayal&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. Will my opponent get to shuffle the colossus into his deck again, or will it return to the battlefield under my control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T19:48:07.110" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T21:00:09.227" Title="Grave Betrayal vs. Blightsteel Colossus" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16717" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:42:05.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It never goes to the graveyard and so it does not get affected by the delayed triggered event of Grave Betrayal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They get to shuffle it back into their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T20:30:41.857" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T20:30:41.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16717" CreationDate="2014-05-27T19:58:49.960" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this portion of the text on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Blightsteel Colossus would be put into a graveyard from anywhere,&#xA;reveal Blightsteel Colossus and shuffle it into its owner's library&#xA;instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This text creates a replacement effect. A replacement effect &amp;quot;watches&amp;quot;&#xA;for an event to happen. For example, regeneration is a replacement effect that watches for the creature to be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for replacement effects neatly state that the event being replaced never happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when Blightsteel Colossus starts to head for the graveyard, instead, he is revealed and shuffled into his owner's library. The event that got replaced never happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To die in Magic has a specific meaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blightsteel Colossus never went to the graveyard, and so Blightsteel Colossus never died. Therefore, Grave Betrayal never triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-05-27T21:00:09.227" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T21:00:09.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16717" CreationDate="2014-05-27T20:25:26.377" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be shuffled into his deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To die is to be moved from the battlefield to the graveyard&lt;sup&gt;[CR 700.4]&lt;/sup&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; never dies because he moves to its owner's library &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt; of moving to the graveyard when he is sacrificed&lt;sup&gt;[CR 614.6]&lt;/sup&gt;. As such, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Grave Betrayal&lt;/a&gt;'s ability never triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T20:25:26.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16651" CreationDate="2014-05-27T21:37:43.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you looked into foam core?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/115468/item/3028822#item3028822&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;There&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnbcV.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/115468/item/3051897#item3051897&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;are&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvVJd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/115468/item/3063393#item3063393&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a lot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TNdJ5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/115468/item/3077727#item3077727&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;of solutions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/erF0d.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/115468/item/3154213#item3154213&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;available&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YPuUf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/115468/item/3228589#item3228589&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on BGG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z2oCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastActivityDate="2014-05-27T21:37:43.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16724" CreationDate="2014-05-27T21:51:27.987" Score="4" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/16702/deciding-when-to-vote-for-team-approval-when-people-are-disagreeing&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt; a commenter mentioned that team leader might propose a team, that they don't intend to approve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably this has something to do with either seeing how other people vote to ascertain if they are spys or not, or sowing discord if the leader is a spy themself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you provide some specific examples where a leader might do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:32:06.833" Title="Why might a leader propose a team they don't plan to approve?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16723" CreationDate="2014-05-28T01:29:27.397" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is round 2 of a 6-player game, so 3 players are needed for the mission. Alice (loyal) is the leader and strongly (but silently) suspects Bob of being a traitor, perhaps due to a &quot;tell&quot;. Carol also suspects Bob and is strongly saying so, and Bob is playing offended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice nominates all three of herself, Bob, and Carol for the mission. She knows that Carol will vote no and will vote no herself, so if even one other member is skeptical the vote will fail. Meanwhile, Alice carefully watches the votes from Donald, Elaine, and Frank. A yes vote, especially a single yes vote, is a suggestion that one of those players is a co-spy; not an ironclad proof, but a possibly-important hint. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same situation, but in this game Alice is a spy. Carol's suspicions about Bob are baseless. Alice still goes through the motions of this charade even though Bob and Carol are both loyal, to throw off suspicion that would arise because she is not going through her typical plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T01:29:27.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16723" CreationDate="2014-05-28T01:29:42.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it works as an information-gathering gambit. You nominate a team, then vote it down hoping it fails, but taking note of who voted for it. What to make of those votes of course depends a lot on playstyle and whether the vote passed or not.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are under heavy suspicion, you might either pull the above gambit or pretend to just so you don't take anyone down (or in the case of a spy, take the wrong people down) with you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To manipulate the turn order. If using The Plot Thickens, you might intentionally tank a vote just to manipulate who gets plot cards on a future turn. In particular, it lets you skip over a suspected spy if the team can still afford to vote down two teams in a row. Speaking of which, this can also be a prelude to a spy victory by five failed votes (No Confidence and Strong Leader can set this up)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T01:29:42.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T01:39:21.067" Score="3" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I guess this is possibly up to house rules/who is playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, revealing who were the spies also reveals people's play styles, which might make it a bit less fun for future games. It would something akin to revealing one's hole cards after a successful bluff in poker. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it can be quite an intense game, so it's nice to 'clear the air', and not have lingering doubts (especially if someone who wasn't a spy had been accused of being one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T02:51:26.700" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T00:44:21.007" Title="Should you reveal who was a spy and who wasn't at the end of a game?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16726" CreationDate="2014-05-28T02:52:17.600" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never seen a single player (spy or not) being able to avoid cheering, asking &quot;why you did that&quot; or commenting a recently won/lost The Resistance match. This is an important moment of relief, discussion, curiosity satisfaction and laughter. It's like sharing an adventurous or humorous story with those at the table, maybe strengthening or creating friendship bonds between people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true though, if you play this game a lot with the same group, they might find it easier to know if you're telling the truth or lying... but they will never be sure! And if you think they are, you can try to change your behaviour. One way to achieve that is to know what people expect you to do in certain circumstances, and to get to know that, you can talk about a recently played match. You can also try to copy or remix with your own approach another player's strategy, something that he also might tell you when the game ends. Bottom line: reinventing your play style and avoiding being obvious is also viable through conversation and experience exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping things secret allows you to keep your strategy to yourself and not being able to know what others know. Although mystery is also fun (The Resistance is all about mystery), I find it hard to understand how this way of being mysterious could be better then sharing the experiences in typical The Resistance play sessions. I must also add that some players might even end up frustrated, thanks to not being able to talk about what he and others were thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T15:20:19.833" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T15:20:19.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T13:02:10.590" Score="1" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Zeppelin action, from the SteamPunk faction, has a talent to move a minion to or from the base on which it was played. It does not specify &quot;ongoing&quot; in its text, but it seems that this has to be implied with the talent, otherwise it seems entirely useless. Is there any guidance on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7701" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:43:55.473" Title="In Smash Up, is the Zeppelin action ongoing?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16729" CreationDate="2014-05-28T14:02:53.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not ongoing. Moving, like destruction, is a one-shot effect (to borrow Magic: The Gathering terminology). The move happens when the talent is used, and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was ongoing, the move would stop when the Zeppelin leaves play. How do you stop something that's already happened? That makes no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T20:43:48.697" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T20:43:48.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T17:56:13.510" Score="2" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say that at my opponent's end step I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bile%20Blight&quot;&gt;Bile Blight&lt;/a&gt; on his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pack%20Rat&quot;&gt;Pack Rat&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;that he already has 3 of total on the field, then he activates the ability of pack rat in&#xA;response, can I respond to the new pack rat resolving with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20charm&quot;&gt;Golgari charm&lt;/a&gt; and kill all 4 rats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7703" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T17:58:53.710" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T23:07:29.957" Title="If I respond to a permanent resolving is it in play when my spell/ability resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16731" CreationDate="2014-05-28T18:13:45.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here what will happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Bile Blight, targetting Pack Rat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pass Priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent Activates Pack Rat ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent passes priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Golgari Charm (presumably with the -1/-1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full priority pass (you and opponent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Golgari Charm resolves, the current 3 pack rats all get -1/-1 so they are 2/2's now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full priority pass (you and opponent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pack Rat ability resolves, there are now 4. The original 3 are 3/3's, and the 4th is a 4/4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Full priority pass (you and opponent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bile Blight resolves, killing the original 3, then when state based effects are checked the 4th one dies because it's a 1/1 with -3/-3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if you waited for the pack rat ability to resolve first, then the 4th would end up getting 1 more -1/-1 which although useless in this case, may be relevant if your opponent has more spells. So it is worth doing like this (and it seems this is what you meant in your question)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6830" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T23:07:29.957" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T23:07:29.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16731" CreationDate="2014-05-28T18:14:26.857" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, though it happens in a complicated way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Golgari Charm's first mode creates a continuous effect that modifies characteristics (power and toughness). It only affects the creatures on the 'field when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2c If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won’t change. (Note that this works differently than a continuous effect from a static ability.) [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Same goes with Bile Blight. Any Pack Rats entering the field after it resolves won't be affected by it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means the following will happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast BB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, opponent activates his PR's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you cast GC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GC resolves: 3x 2/2 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PR's ability resolves: 3x 3/3 PR + 1x 4/4 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB resolves: 3x 0/0 PR + 1x 1/1 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBA kills the PR with non-positive toughness: 1x -2/-2 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBA kills the PR with non-positive toughness: No PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a little cleaner if you wait before casting GC. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast BB&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, opponent activates his PR's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;PR's ability resolves: 4x 4/4 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast GC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GC resolves: 4x 3/3 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BB resolves: 4x 0/0 PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBA kills the PR with non-positive toughness: No PR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter the order, creating a 5th PR before BB resolves would save them all. But which of the approach you used will affect how strong they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the first approach, he'll end up with 3x 1/1, 2x 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the second approach, he'll end up with 4x 1/1 and 1x 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-28T20:38:51.693" LastActivityDate="2014-05-28T20:38:51.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-28T20:55:30.490" Score="3" ViewCount="25984" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the combat phase, after I assign a blocker, can I then tap that blocker for its activated ability? What would happen? For example, say that a 1/1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209162&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Saproling&lt;/a&gt; token equipped with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=51182&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Healer's Headress&lt;/a&gt; is assigned to block an attacking 3/1 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130676&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blade of the Sixth Pride&lt;/a&gt;, but after it's assigned, the Saproling is tapped to prevent one damage to it. Is that legal? Would anything change if the attacking creature had first strike, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=184543&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ambush Party&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7704" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T03:58:05.230" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T03:58:05.230" Title="Can I tap a card after I assign it to block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-05-30T01:40:31.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16734" CreationDate="2014-05-28T21:04:46.723" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the combat phase, after I assign a blocker, can I then tap that blocker for its activated ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  Blockers only need to be untapped when they're actually declared as blockers; after that, tapping &amp;amp; untapping have no effect on blocking or any other parts of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.4b Tapping or untapping a creature that’s already been declared as an attacker or blocker doesn’t remove it from combat and doesn’t prevent its combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The activated ability would go on the stack, like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, say that a 1/1 Saproling token equipped with Healer's Headress is assigned to block an attacking 3/1 Blade of the Sixth Pride, but after it's assigned, the Saproling is tapped to prevent one damage to it. Is that legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would anything change if the attacking creature had first strike, like Ambush Party?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T21:22:04.480" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T21:22:04.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16748" CreationDate="2014-05-28T21:30:24.843" Score="8" ViewCount="1327" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Dance with Dragons expansion, the house card for Margaery Tyrell reads &quot;If you are defending your home or a territory that has power token on it, the final combat strength of your opponent is 2&quot;. The house card for Mance Rayder reads &quot;Your final combat strength is equal to the wildling threat&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when these two cards are played against each other? How is the final strength of the Baratheon player resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7705" LastEditorUserId="7705" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T13:16:16.663" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:05:38.437" Title="Dance with Dragons: Margaery Tyrell vs. Mance Rayder" Tags="|expansions|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16723" CreationDate="2014-05-29T00:55:15.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of the game, the resistance has the advantage of numbers and the spies have the advantage of knowledge. The core tactic of the resistance is to reduce the spies' advantage by making as much knowledge public as is possible. One of the biggest pieces of public knowledge is what teams are proposed, and how people vote for them. As such, in the groups that I play with, it's extremely common in the first round for leaders to genuinely propose teams, and then vote against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if the game comes down to the last mission, then obviously resistance needs a perfect team to win. Hence any resistance member &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; on the team must vote against it, as should any resistance member who is on the team but suspects that there are still spies on it. If there are two resistance members coming up as consecutive leaders (and they're reasonably convinced of each other's alignment), then the first can propose a team that includes both of them on it, and vote against it. If anyone not on the team votes for it, that's pretty good evidence they've just outed themselves as a spy, otherwise you can feel more confident about the team and the next leader can propose the exact same team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T00:55:15.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16723" CreationDate="2014-05-29T01:06:25.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought I'd add a scenario I thought of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice is the leader. Bob is accusing Charlie of being a spy. Alice suspects that Charlie &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; a spy, but Bob is, and is trying to sow seeds of discord. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice, without making a deal of it (pretends to ignore/not notice Bob's arguements) assigns Alice, Bob and Charlie to the team. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Bob really was Resistance, and was genuine about accusing Charlie, then Bob will vote against this assignment. If he votes for it, he probably is a spy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T04:10:09.130" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T04:10:09.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16739" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-29T07:16:13.423" Score="4" ViewCount="25502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm attacking with a 1/1 Satyr Grovedancer. My opponent blocks with a 1/2 Two-Headed Cerberus with double strike. Does double strike still apply when the creature is blocking? I understand my Satyr will die either way but say it were the case with a 4/4 creature, what would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7708" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T07:47:07.160" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T08:29:47.317" Title="Does double strike work whilst blocking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16739" CreationDate="2014-05-29T08:16:38.267" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, double strike and first strike work while blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effectively, there is a &quot;first strike combat damage step&quot; in which one set of double strike damage is dealt, and then a normal combat damage step, where all other combat damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whether attacking or blocking, that phase always occurs, and damage is dealt simultaneously within it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the case of your Grovedancer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;First strike damage step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Two-Headed Puppy deals 1 damage to the Grovedancer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grovedancer dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Normal combat step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grovedancer already dead, can't hit back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where you attacked with a 2/1 Golden Hind&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;First strike damage step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Two-Headed Puppy deals 1 damage to the Hind&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hind dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Normal combat step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hind already dead, can't hit back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where you attacked with a 2/2 Travelling Philosopher&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;First strike damage step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Two-Headed Puppy deals 1 damage to the Philosopher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Normal combat step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Philosopher deals 2 damage to the Puppy, Puppy deals another 1 damage to the Philosopher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Philosopher and Puppy both die&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where you attacked with a 4/4 Rumbling Baloth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;First strike damage step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Two-Headed Puppy deals 1 damage to the Baloth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Normal combat step&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Baloth deals 4 damage to the Puppy (Yipe!), Puppy deals another 1 damage to the Baloth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Puppy Dies, Baloth has taken 2 damage, so will now die to a Shock if it gets hit before end of turn, otherwise it'll heal up during&#xA;  cleanup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T08:29:47.317" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T08:29:47.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15322" CreationDate="2014-05-29T08:30:43.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game tends to be much easier for the Hunter player. They have 8 pieces that can kill animals, while the animals only have the 2 bears. Yes, hunters can only attack in a certain direction, but they can move as far as they want, while Bears have to creep up on the hunters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7709" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T08:30:43.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13580" CreationDate="2014-05-29T08:36:41.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have stats, but the conventional wisdom is that production/consumption strategies are dominant in the base set, so ELC is generally thought of as the best. New Earth vs. Alpha Centauri seem like a toss-up to me for second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7709" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T08:36:41.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16747" CreationDate="2014-05-29T13:10:43.533" Score="2" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play a Poison card (from the Ninja faction) on a 3 power minion that minion now has 0 as that is the minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Poison: Play on a minion. Destroy any number of actions on it. Ongoing: This minion has -4 power. (Minions have minimum power of 0.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the owner of that card then plays a +1 power to all of their minions does the minion with poison have 0 or 1 power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One person I play with argues that because the poison only reduced the minion to 0, the +1 therefore makes it 1. However, I think that all of the modifiers are added together, so 3 - 4 + 1 and only then is the 'minion score cannot be less than 0' modifier is applied so the minion is still 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6983" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-30T01:55:25.650" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T02:09:35.673" Title="Does the order that cards are played have any effect? (Specifically poison)" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16744" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-05-29T13:56:01.293" Score="1" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;So me and my mate are just looking for clarification about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt;, targeting my graveyard. In response he plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt; and also wants to target my graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt; goes first? And if his does go first, am I then able to respond and target his graveyard instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7713" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T14:11:16.037" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T14:11:16.037" Title="Crypt Incursion stack help" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16744" CreationDate="2014-05-29T14:06:58.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to choose targets when you cast the spell. You cast the spell first, so your spell is on the bottom of the stack. Then your friend casts his spell which goes on top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You resolve the stack from top to bottom, so his spell resolves first and exiles all the creatures in your graveyard, gaining him life. Then your spell resolves and exiles all the zero creatures in your graveyard, gaining you zero life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could always play some other spells after his spell resolves, which might put some creatures into your graveyard. You can't just change the target of your spell once you have cast it though, unless another card lets you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T14:06:58.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16744" CreationDate="2014-05-29T14:09:16.333" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell, it goes on the stack before it resolves and takes effect. While it is on the stack, both players can cast instants or activate abilities &amp;quot;in response&amp;quot; to the spell or ability on the stack, and these responses will go on TOP of the stack. Once both players say that they don't wish to do anything else, the spell or ability on the TOP of the stack resolves. This means that the second &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Incursion&quot;&gt;Crypt Incursion&lt;/a&gt; will resolve first, so when the first one resolves, your graveyard will no longer have creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot change which graveyard you wish to target in response. You choose your targets as you cast the spell (as you put it on the stack), and you cannot change that choice later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_Magic_Basic_Rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spell doesn’t resolve (have its effect) right away—it has&#xA;to wait on the stack. Each player, including you, now gets&#xA;a chance to cast an instant or activate an activated ability&#xA;in response. If a player does, that instant or ability goes on&#xA;the stack on top of what was already waiting there. When&#xA;all players decline to do anything, the top spell or ability&#xA;on the stack will resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose the targets for a spell when you cast it, and&#xA;you choose targets for an activated ability when you&#xA;activate it. If you can’t meet the targeting requirements,&#xA;you can’t cast the spell or activate the activated ability.&#xA;Once you choose targets, you can’t change your mind&#xA;later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T14:09:16.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16743" CreationDate="2014-05-29T15:11:22.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Smash Up Rules and FAQ don't seem to address this directly, but I would say the power is still zero for a simple reason - it keeps the power consistent regardless of which effect hit the table first. 3-4+1 = 3+1-4, after all. (Which is why most games do the math that way, IMO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T15:11:22.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16736" CreationDate="2014-05-29T16:05:38.437" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baratheon strength 2 is Final if the Throne ranking so determines : &#xA;which house executes first and next house executes after. So slightly counter-intuitively the lower Throne ranking would receive the benefit in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/73198-house-card-questions/&quot;&gt;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/73198-house-card-questions/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/867434/final-combat-strength&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/867434/final-combat-strength&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T16:05:38.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16751" CreationDate="2014-05-29T16:30:24.027" Score="6" ViewCount="18763" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Body%20and%20Mind&quot;&gt;Sword of Body and Mind&lt;/a&gt; is part of a 5-card cycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Body%20and%20Mind&quot;&gt;Sword of Body and Mind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20War%20and%20Peace&quot;&gt;Sword of War and Peace&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Feast%20and%20Famine&quot;&gt;Sword of Feast and Famine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Fire%20and%20Ice&quot;&gt;Sword of Fire and Ice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Light%20and%20Shadow&quot;&gt;Sword of Light and Shadow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cards in this cycle have seen some amount of tournament play, but Sword of Body and Mind is generally regarded the weakest of the five, and is the least expensive in most stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that? Sword of Body and Mind doesn't look any less powerful than the other swords, and it is the only one that directly improves your board position by making tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is Sword of Body and Mind generally regarded as the weakest of the five swords? What advantages do the other swords provide that Sword of Body and Mind doesn't?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6597" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-05-30T08:18:37.957" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T08:18:37.957" Title="Why is Sword of Body and Mind regarded as the weakest of the Swords?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16749" CreationDate="2014-05-29T18:01:22.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, because its protections and its effects are least relevant.  Milling 10 cards from an opponent's library, while it will (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul,%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;usually&lt;/a&gt;) eventually lead to a game win, does nothing in and of itself; and putting an additional body into play means another creature to carry the sword, but is often seldom directly relevant.  By contrast, Sword of War and Peace deals additional damage directly; Sword of Fire and Ice both deals additional damage (to a target of the attacker's choice) and draws a card; and Sword of Feast and Famine is disruptive with its discard and allows the attacker to cast spells pre-combat (during the Standard season that it dominated, for instance, a Squadron Hawk or Jace, the Mind Sculptor) and then still have their lands untapped to keep up counters on the opponent's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sword of Light and Shadow's effects are arguably worse than Sword of Body and Mind's; returning a creature to hand is arguably less useful than putting a small body into play (since mana still has to be spent on the creature) and the lifegain is as modest an effect as lifegain usually is.  But this is where the other factor comes into play: both White and Black tend to have viable removal spells, on the order of Doom Blade or Oblivion Ring, and so protection from either or both makes a creature much more viable.  All the other swords offer protection from either Red or Black, the classically removal-heavy colors; Sword of Body and Mind, on the other hand, only offers protection from Blue and Green, the two most removal-light colors.  Bounce spells tend to be viable parts of a format only rarely, and while punching through Green monsters is often useful, SoFaF provides that same ability with better effects and a more relevant secondary protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, all of this analysis can go out the window in other environments; in particular, Sword of Body and Mind is often regarded as the &lt;em&gt;best&lt;/em&gt; sword for limited environments, and in particular in most cube-drafting environments.  There, the mill becomes much more relevant (since often just two swings will be enough, and three virtually always will), the protections balance out somewhat, and the additional body is even more board-affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T18:01:22.747" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16749" CreationDate="2014-05-29T18:04:53.077" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just not very good. Sword of Body and Mind's abilities aren't as powerful individually, and they have very poor synergy with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Fire%20and%20Ice&quot;&gt;Sword of Fire and Ice&lt;/a&gt; is great for a tempo deck beating down on another tempo deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a card: +1 card advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage to target creature: often +1 card advantage. Lots of creatures worth killing have 1 or 2 toughness (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Confidant&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mother%20of%20Runes&quot;&gt;Mother of Runes&lt;/a&gt;). At worst, it speeds up the clock a little.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from red: negates red-base removal, which is plentiful because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; is SOOOO good.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from blue: very marginal, but means your opponent can't win tempo by bouncing your creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Light%20and%20Shadow&quot;&gt;Sword of Light and Shadow&lt;/a&gt; is a great card for creature-based midrange:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return a card to your hand: consistently +1 card advantage in a deck with a reasonable number of creatures (16+).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from white and protection from black together in one card: negate almost all of the non-damage-based creature removal in the game. +2 toughness also helps make your creature resistant to red removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain some life: marginal, but it can help one midrange creature deck beat another in a damage race.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Feast%20and%20Famine&quot;&gt;Sword of Feast and Famine&lt;/a&gt; is superb in midrange control decks like Cawblade:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent discards: often +1 card advantage. You don't get this if your opponent's already running on empty, but if that's the case you've likely already got them on the ropes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untap your lands: this is a massive strategic advantage. Very easy to keep up mana for counterspells or removal while still developing your board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from black: negates a lot of removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from green: a lot of the biggest creatures are green, so it's nice to be able to slip past them. Thanks to the Sword's untap ability, you can easily attack with one dude and then move the Sword to another one so you'll have a pro-green creature to block your opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;. The real value is that it's stapled to protection from black, though: you're giving your creature bonus toughness (to get it out of burn range) &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; making it immune to black's targeted removal &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; making it immune to damage from giant green creatures — sure to give Jund &lt;em&gt;fits&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20War%20and%20Peace&quot;&gt;Sword of War and Peace&lt;/a&gt; is a massive clock swinger, useful to any reasonably fast deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage your opponent a whole bunch if they're hoarding cards: basically makes your creature a very fast clock against control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage your opponent and gain life: creates significant life swings in an aggro/tempo damage race.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from red and protection from white: negates a lot of removal, including cheap removal all-stars like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swords%20to%20Plowshares&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20to%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;. Pro white also lets you bypass token swarm defenses like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Body%20and%20Mind&quot;&gt;Sword of Body and Mind&lt;/a&gt; is, in contrast, a mishmash of abilities that aren't so great by themselves and don't really fit together:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a token: technically +1 card advantage, but a Grizzly Bear is kind of a bad card. In most cases this is flat-out inferior to drawing a card, getting a creature back from your yard, or being able to blast something with a bit of damage (since you can remove weenie creatures &lt;em&gt;with actual abilities&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection from blue and from green: these are the two colors in the game with the least removal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mill: meh. Mill's not always terrible, but here you only mill them when you are inflicting damage. In most cases, that's strictly inferior to any kind of effect that just lets you inflict more damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T23:01:56.383" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T23:01:56.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16753" CreationDate="2014-05-29T18:34:41.627" Score="5" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Emperion&quot;&gt;Platinum Emperion&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and I tap my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tree%20of%20Redemption&quot;&gt;Tree of Redemption&lt;/a&gt;, will the Tree still change it's toughness to my current life total, or will the Platinum Emperion negate that effect, since my life total is unable to change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-05-29T18:46:15.673" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T18:46:15.673" Title="Platinum Emperion and Tree of Redemption" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16752" CreationDate="2014-05-29T18:45:03.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tree of Redemption will not be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.8. Exchange&#xA;701.8a A spell or ability may instruct players to exchange something (for example, life totals or control of two permanents) as part of its resolution. When such a spell or ability resolves, &lt;strong&gt;if the entire exchange can’t be completed, no part of the exchange occurs.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see this ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Emperion&quot;&gt;Platinum Emperion&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an effect would cause you to exchange life totals with another player, the exchange won't happen. Neither player's life total changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T18:45:03.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15572" CreationDate="2014-05-29T20:51:14.490" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;Void Where Prohibited&quot; section of the rules it says &quot;If you get to play extra minions or actions while a base is being scored, you must play those extra cards immediately or not at all&quot; which means that you DO get to play the extra card from the Chronomage, but only if you play it immediately.  You can't wait to see if other cards get played first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it may seem weird to be able to play actions during other people's turns, this ruling has been confirmed by an AEG rep &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1023233/hidden-ninja-chronomage&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7715" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T13:24:15.760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T13:24:15.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16769" CreationDate="2014-05-29T21:57:55.557" Score="3" ViewCount="698" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some planeswalkers, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Architect%20of%20Thought&quot;&gt;Jace, Architect of Thought&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Domri%20Rade&quot;&gt;Domri Rade&lt;/a&gt; have seen a lot of tournament play, while others, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%2C%20Champion%20of%20Justice&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vraska%20the%20Unseen&quot;&gt;Vraska the Unseen&lt;/a&gt; are rarely used in tournaments. Why is this? Gideon, for example, can turn into a huge threat pretty quickly, while Domri does little to directly improve your board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What makes a planeswalker tournament-playable? What characteristics are desirable in planeswalker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6597" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:30:36.193" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T11:30:36.193" Title="What are desirable planeswalker characteristics?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16686" CreationDate="2014-05-29T22:15:12.487" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I and found a tutorial in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Construct-a-Hex-Board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WikiHow&lt;/a&gt; website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-05-29T22:15:12.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16743" CreationDate="2014-05-30T02:09:35.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not covered by the rules. At times like this, I ask myself what Magic: The Gathering does, just to get an idea. It's a very similar game which has worked out these issues. In MTG, similar continuous effects are applied in the order they were created (played). However, MTG allows for negative power, so MTG gives zero no matter which card is applied first, so there's no good parallel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Smash Up, I think it's best to add up all the bonuses and penalties before capping off to zero. In your case, that would give the Minion a Power of zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you did otherwise,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'd have a card bring down a Minion by -3 to 1 even though it's suppose to give -4 on an ongoing basis. That feels weird.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It seems to go against the feel of Smash Up to have to remember the order the cards were played in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T02:09:35.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2014-05-30T04:05:12.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think a major element is that these planeswalkers all provide some form of card advantage the turn they come into play as a +1: card draw (Domri and Garruk, caller of beast's +1s fall in that category), tokens, mana, discard... Planeswalkers that majorly hobble the opponent with their +1 (Jace Architect. Kiora) are also playable. The major exception is Ashiok, but his +2 is a ticking bomb on its own (unlike those of Vraska or Ajani, caller of the pride) and he is played in shells that can protect him very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, with the prevalence of Dreadbore, Heroes' Downfall and now Banishing Light, a planeswalker like Vraska, Gideon or Ral Zarek that durdles for several turns or are just an overcosted version of a cheap spell rather than having a useful + ability just won't cut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T04:05:12.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2014-05-30T04:09:55.177" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, Planeswalkers are slow to do anything by themselves, so the ones that see tournament play are the ones whose early abilities complement the deck or give immediate card advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gideon takes about 4 turns to get out (by mana cost). His +1 doesn't do anything useful immediately, and even when he does get big he can be stopped by 1 chump blocker a turn. His ultimate is good, and will probably win you the game, but it takes a long time to activate and it puts all of your eggs in one basket, making you very vulnerable to a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swords%20to%20Plowshares&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Vraska the Unseen&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vraska, again, probably doesn't get out until turn 5. Her +1 ability does nothing but deter your opponent from going after Vraska, which does nothing to stop them from killing you. Her -3 is useful, but half of her loyalty is a bit of a steep price to pay to destroy just one permanent. And her ultimate, which you're optimistically getting off on turn 8, does nothing if your opponent has 3 bears to block with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Domri Rade&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domri, on the other hand, gets out on turn 3 and immediately starts helping you get cards. With him on the field in a creature heavy deck, you are much more likely to be able to play a creature every single turn. And if you do manage to get his ultimate off, then the double strike+trample combo makes even a few moderate powered creatures into a major threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Jace, Architect of Thought&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jace, like Gideon, gets out on turn 4. However, his +1 ability immediately protects both you and him by weakening your opponent's creatures, and generally just slows them down, which is very useful for a control player. His -2 ability is also one of the best effects in the game (consider that it's strictly better than &amp;quot;Reveal the top 3 cards of your library. Put 1 into your hand and the rest on bottom in any order&amp;quot;). His ultimate is very situational, but you don't really need it when the other abilities are doing so much for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domri and Jace share two major qualities. First, they complement existing major deck archetypes: Domri accelerates a Red/Green aggro deck, and Jace helps a mono Blue control deck both by slowing the opponent down and by getting the player the cards they need when they need them. Second, they both give the player card advantage. Getting more cards into your hand from your library every turn is very useful both because it helps you play more quickly by making it more likely that you'll hit land drops and have cards to play, and because it makes it more likely that you'll have the cards you need when you need them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T04:09:55.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2014-05-30T04:47:16.177" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zatch Bell The Card Battle TCG (&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18287/zatch-bell&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/18287/zatch-bell&lt;/a&gt;) is a TCG with no shuffling. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also features deck as health and deck as resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7719" LastEditorUserId="7719" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T23:53:20.847" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T23:53:20.847" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2014-05-30T09:19:40.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer : I don't play standard, so if you look this from standard perspective, then it maybe somewhat irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are basic factors that should used when evaluating a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How efficient is the casting cost?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can it protect itself and you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How good is it assuming you can't fetch its ultimate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much the board impact it provides if you can only get 1 activation from it? (Assuming almost every PW got killed after it comes down)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you ask why Vraska and Gideon doesn't see much play :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vraska's 5cmc makes only control deck wants her, the problem is, there's no BG control in standard I guess. And, while also she protect herself quite well, it's sadly only from creature threat, so it's still, can be burned, for example. She also really bad if you can't ultimate her, and also her ultimate can easily negated with block / sweep, so it's most likely a pseudo vindicate costs 5. Not appealing at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gideon is a total disaster. He goes fat quite fast, but, the problem is, no one cares to attack him. Compares to the first Gideon, this gideon doesn't protect you at all. Sadly, protection is what white deck needs at turn 4+. And, most likely, by the time you cast it, to make its +1 impactful, you already near to death. It's ultimate also a joke. Conclusion : don't play it unless you play for fun only.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Domri is a special case here, his cmc is really cheap (3) and comes in aggro color, which only cares to give a good pressure, so it doesn't really need to be able to protect himself or you. This pseudo draw, is good, in an aggro deck, and the ultimate is backbreaking (seriously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T09:19:40.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16763" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16764" CreationDate="2014-05-30T10:38:25.833" Score="0" ViewCount="2250" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sanguine%20Bond&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reverse%20the%20Sands&quot;&gt;Reverse the Sands&lt;/a&gt;, will the redistribution of life trigger Sanguine Bond if I choose to distribute less life to my opponent than he originally had?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ex. I have 10 life left, my opponent has 14 life left. I play RtS and distribute life totals so I end up with 23 life and my opponent with 1 life, would that be considered a &amp;quot;loss of life/life gain&amp;quot; situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-30T11:45:47.730" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T12:12:05.647" Title="Reverse the Sands and Sanguine Bond" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16763" CreationDate="2014-05-30T10:55:10.187" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, Sanguine will trigger, but you can't set his life total to 1.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changing life totals is treated as gaining life or losing life to reach the specified life total&lt;sup&gt;[CR 118.5]&lt;/sup&gt;. So that will trigger the bond in this case. (It wouldn't if you started at 14 and he started at 10.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, you've misunderstood what Reverse the Sands does. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Discussion.aspx?multiverseid=79125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;specific gatherer ruling on this for the card&lt;/a&gt; is &quot;You can't split up a life total when you redistribute it&quot;. You can &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; make your opponent's total 10 and yours 14 , or make no changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you end up with the same life totals on different players, and then resolve any following effects. In this case he loses 4 and you gain 4, and then Sanguine triggers off your lifegain and he loses another 4. If you choose not to redistribute, Sanguine won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-30T12:12:05.647" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T12:12:05.647" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2014-05-30T13:27:34.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Get started&quot;? &lt;strong&gt;Nothing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Around the release of every core set local stores receive &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/1246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;30 card &quot;Sample&quot; decks&lt;/a&gt; to hand out for &lt;em&gt;FREE&lt;/em&gt;. This are basically only good for trying out the game playing against each other (as a normal structure requires 60 card decks), but they're fun to play with, restricted to cards that are easy to understand, and can provide a base for you to build a stronger deck around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, if you have friends who've been playing for more than a year, they will fall over themselves to give you cards. I need to free up some &lt;em&gt;space&lt;/em&gt;, take my commons, please! You won't get the strongest deck out of this, but you can certainly get something you can play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.steampowered.com/app/213850/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/a&gt; is generally considered to be the best intro to learning the game, and you can get it off Steam for very little (£7 UK atm). It'll allow you to practice, learn and get a feel for the game, without being screwed up by the relatively complicated rule system that every player gets slightly wrong. (Magic is a game with a phonebook for a rulebook, and nearly every potential teacher has at least one thing they think they understand and totally don't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As somebody else has said, you can pick up 2 actual starter decks for roughly $20-$30, and the new &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/arcana/1443&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clash Packs&lt;/a&gt; allow you to spend $30 for 2 casual decks that can be combined to form a tournament viable (if not dominant) deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find you enjoy deckbuilding, I recommend Limited formats for picking up cards, beginning with the set pre-releases, where you pay for 6 boosters, build the best 40 card deck you can out of them, and play 5 rounds of Magic. They're great fun, and generally advertised on Wizard's site ahead of time, along with a Store Locator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have said, once started, you may find yourself eBaying your stuff to pay for that last mythic rare to complete your Modern Deck, but that's an intervention your friends and loved ones can have at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T13:27:34.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2014-05-30T13:27:42.757" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mage Wars is a living card game and not a CCS, but that is an irrelevant point once gameplay begins.  Unlike a CCG, a living card game sells packs open so you always know what you are going to get.  I think the most popular idea of this is actually Warhammer 40k where players buy the exact units that they want for their armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Mage Wars, players build spell-books by putting cards into a binder.  During play they page through their spell-book, pull out the card that they want to play, and play it.  No shuffling, no randomisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5762" LastEditDate="2014-07-26T12:52:05.403" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T12:52:05.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16755" CreationDate="2014-05-30T18:09:15.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The various answers all list some good characteristics, but none of them lists all characteristics. This is a compilation of the other answers by @Circeus, @MosesAprico and @murgatroid99. I highly recommend checking out their answers for a more in-depth explanation and an analysis of the planeswalkers mentioned in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important characteristics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all strong, tournament-playable planeswalkers have all of the following characteristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker complements an existing deck archetype, or enables a new deck archetype. Either way, it needs a strong, competetive deck to be played in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker is appropriately costed for the deck it is in. This might be 3CMC for more aggressive decks, but can be up to 6CMC for control decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker provides some kind of card advantage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other desirable characteristics&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strong planeswalkers often have the following characteristics, but a planeswalker lacking one or more can still be tournament-playable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker has an impact on the turn you play it. Since a planeswalker often draws removal and can be attacked, it needs to be worthwile even if you only get to keep it for only one turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker can protect itself well. This can substitute having an immediate impact.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The planeswalker can protect you. A planeswalker can be very strong, but if it can't do anything to prevent your life total from dropping, you might still lose the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6597" LastEditorUserId="6597" LastEditDate="2014-05-31T08:18:42.797" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T08:18:42.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16770" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16771" CreationDate="2014-05-30T18:49:57.493" Score="4" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Tyr&amp;#39;s Hand - NetrunnerDB&quot;&gt;Tyr's Hand&lt;/a&gt; installed in a remote server and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Heimdall 2.0 - Netrunner DB&quot;&gt;Heimdall 2.0&lt;/a&gt; protecting it. The runner declares a run and approaches &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Heimdall 2.0 - Netrunner DB&quot;&gt;Heimdall 2.0&lt;/a&gt;. I pay to rez the ice, and the runner decides to break all three subroutines with whatever means are at her disposal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it correct that &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Tyr&amp;#39;s Hand - NetrunnerDB&quot;&gt;Tyr's Hand&lt;/a&gt; can be rezzed and trashed now to prevent the runner from breaking the second subroutine (1 brain damage, end the run)? And is it correct that essentially the runner has no way of avoiding this from happening - once they have elected to break a subroutine, I can prevent them from breaking it and they must suffer the consequences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="11950" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T21:06:33.320" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T21:06:33.320" Title="Tyr's Hand - Rule Check" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16770" CreationDate="2014-05-30T19:31:56.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tyr's Hand should be rezzed after the runner encounters a piece of bioroid ice and declares that they are going to break subroutines on that ice (usually via clicks/breakers).  So, in your example, you would rez Heimdall 2.0 first, and if the runner declares that they are going to break the subs, then you would rez Tyr's Hand.  So, you don't have to rez Tyr's Hand when you rez the ICE (which might be useful if they see Heimdall can't break anything anyways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the runner declares that they are breaking, you can rez Tyr's hand and trash it to prevent one subroutine from being broken.  This means: whatever the runner spent to break that subroutine is still spent (e.g. 2 clicks from 2.0 ICE, or credits) - however, they can still spend more to rebreak the subroutine.  So, if they used a breaker - perhaps it just costs them an extra credit.  But if they were relying on clicks, then they are out of luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T19:31:56.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18699" CreationDate="2014-05-30T21:32:32.423" Score="4" ViewCount="526" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my friends and I play Axis &amp;amp; Allies 1942 we have trouble distinguishing a couple borders along seazone 3, pictured below. In each case you can see a little sliver of land that is barely touching seazone 3, one in the UK and the other in Karelia. However, the other seazone-territory borders are pretty clearly indicated, so do we assume UK and Karelia are not intended to border seazone 3 because they are not as clear as others? &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KPZTq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;UK&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uYG9P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Karelia&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7705" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T06:27:36.130" Title="Questionable borders on seazone 3" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16805" CreationDate="2014-05-30T22:01:42.863" Score="2" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;My dad said the house has the advantage in Blackjack because you can't play one hand against the dealer, you can only play on your own if you play two hands, and this gives them an edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know their edge actually comes from playing last (as if you both bust, you don't push, the player loses), but would playing 1 or 2 hands against the house make a difference, or would their edge stay the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7723" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T17:12:21.850" Title="Are you allowed to play Blackjack on your own with one hand?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15415" CreationDate="2014-05-30T22:08:25.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shuffle them all together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is why this is a great gateway game but unfortunately it is also a little silly since so many cards have different backings when they are added to the core set. (Sorry, personal opinion)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a zombie - that is how you start, you have no powers when there is no mojo - you can discard a mojo to become a plain zombie. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shuffle, deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7724" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T22:08:25.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16784" CreationDate="2014-05-30T23:06:09.820" Score="4" ViewCount="3887" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently taught a game with the following rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deal 5 cards face down to each player in a line and then 5 cards on top of the face down cards. Then deal 3 cards to each player for their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play begins with the player to the left of the dealer. The player selects a card from their hand and plays it face down. The next player plays a card with the following rules. The card must be of equal rank or higher, aces high. If a set of 4 of the se rank is ever on the stack, the stack is cleared and all cards in the stack are removed from play and the last player to play plays again. 2 and 10s can be played on any card. 10s also clear the stack and give the playing player a turn again. If a player cannot play a card they take the stack into the hand. Only once all cards in your hand are played can you play the face up cards in front of you. And only when all face up cards have been played can you play the face down cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7233" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-05-31T22:23:41.097" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T07:20:22.917" Title="What is this game called?" Tags="|identify-this-game|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16773" CreationDate="2014-05-30T23:15:03.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are not card counting, the house has its edge/hand no matter what. For N hands, you just multiply the house edge by N to get the new house edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are card counting, the question gets more complicated, but one additional hand is not likely to make a difference between favoring the player and favoring the house. Any difference in player edge is going to come from the fact that more cards are dealt out between hands (card counters get most of their edge from changing their bet sizes based on the distribution of cards left in the deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this assumes that dealers reshuffle well before reaching the end of the deck/shoe, which is the case virtually everywhere these days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the assumption that no one lets you play one hand at a table by yourself is false. I did it all the time when I lived in Washington state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-05-30T23:15:03.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7542" CreationDate="2014-05-31T01:24:44.440" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone willing to spend more money to get large numbers of pieces such as cubes may want to read my blog post:&#xA; Generic plastic/wood game pieces you can buy for prototypes&#xA;(or for full production?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pulsiphergamedesign.blogspot.com/2014/03/generic-plasticwood-game-pieces-you-can.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pulsiphergamedesign.blogspot.com/2014/03/generic-plasticwood-game-pieces-you-can.html&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7725" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T01:24:44.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13588" CreationDate="2014-05-31T01:37:20.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Save Dr Lucky is similar in some ways, but does play differently. In order to increase the chance of success as the game progresses, the board shrinks one deck at time as the Titanic sinks, which means forces the players closer together. This can be annoying when you are holding on to room cards for a lower deck that has just sunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is definitely worth owning if you enjoy Kill Dr Lucky. I will say that it doesn't play very well if you don't have at least four players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7726" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T01:37:20.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13148" CreationDate="2014-05-31T01:42:29.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This video from my &quot;How to Write Clear Rules&quot; course might help:&#xA;Sequence of Play versus Reference Rules&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/fEqtp0c540w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://youtu.be/fEqtp0c540w&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;A few other videos from the course will appear on my Game Design YouTube channel along with this video, but most will not.  The course itself is at &lt;a href=&quot;http://Courses.PulsipherGames.Com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Courses.PulsipherGames.Com&lt;/a&gt;.  As far as I know the course is the most comprehensive discussion of writing game rules anywhere.  It's not a topic I discussed at length in my book &quot;Game Design&quot;, which is first about video games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lew Pulsipher&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7725" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T01:42:29.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6762" CreationDate="2014-05-31T02:13:07.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The glossary of my book &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0786469528&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Game Design: How to Create Video and Tabletop Games, Start to Finish&lt;/a&gt;&quot; is 10,000+ words, but it includes video as well as tabletop game design terms.  I don't separate the two formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7725" LastActivityDate="2014-05-31T02:13:07.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16775" CreationDate="2014-06-01T03:18:28.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game you describe seems to be a fairly typical example of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/beating/shithead.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shithead / Palace / Shed / Karma / China Hand / Ten-Two Slide&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;//en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shithead_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;) family of card games.  These games are known by a variety of names around the world, and have many local variations.  The game you describe does, however, contain most of the basic elements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Players are dealt three initial sets of cards: one set in their hand, one face up on the table, and one face down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to get rid of all your cards, both those in your hand and those on the table, by placing them on top of a common discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You must first play the card in your hand, then the face-up cards from the table, and finally the face-down cards, which must be played blind without looking at them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On each turn, you may place one or more cards of the same rank onto the pile, but only (with some exceptions) if they equal or exceed the rank of the current topmost card on the pile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The most common exceptions are that a 2 or a 10 may be played at any time; a 2 allows the next player to play any card, while a 10 (or, commonly, any four cards of the same rank together) will clear the whole pile and allow you to restart it from any rank you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cannot play any card (or fail to play a blind card), you must pick up the entire discard pile into your hand and let the next player restart a new pile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="2203" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T07:20:22.917" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T07:20:22.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-01T05:54:14.330" Score="0" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &quot;chess board editor&quot; sites, which you can use to solve chess puzzles. Input chess position and move the pieces trying different combinations of moves. For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.caissa.com/chess-tools/pgn-editor.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.caissa.com/chess-tools/pgn-editor.php&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there the same thing for puzzles, which are based on card games? That means a tool, which would be more or less equivalent to physical card deck.&#xA;I need for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preferans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Preferans&lt;/a&gt;, but may be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contract_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt;-site or any other tricks-based game will be fine too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7730" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-26T02:59:41.287" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T02:59:41.287" Title="Are there online tools to solve card-based puzzles?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-03-27T06:49:33.413" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16788" CreationDate="2014-06-01T17:43:24.973" Score="1" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about a combat trick involving the cards mentioned in the Title. Situation is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I control a 4/4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kalonian%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Kalonian Hydra&lt;/a&gt; and a 4/4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vastwood%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Vastwood Hydra&lt;/a&gt;. I also have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cathars%27%20Crusade&quot;&gt;Cathars&amp;#39; Crusade&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my turn I declare both of the Hydras as attacking creatures. As such the Kalonian Hydra doubles the number of +1/+1 counters on both Hydras, making both of them 8/8 creatures.&#xA;My opponent decides to block my Vastwood Hydra with multible blockers, wich would do  leathal damage to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when blockers are declared, before combat damage is resolved, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mercy%20Killing&quot;&gt;Mercy Killing&lt;/a&gt; on my Vastwood Hydra. As a result 8 Elf Tokens comes into the battlefield, and triggers Cathars' Crusade (and makes all the Elf tokens 8/8 Elves, but that is not important in this situation)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also puts 8 +1/+1 tokens on my Kalonian Hydra, making it a 16/16 Hydra. And when the Vastwood Hydra goes to the graveyard (because I sacrificed it) I distribute all of its 8 +1/+1 counters to my Kalonian Hydra and makes it a 24/24 Hydra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat damage resovles and the kalonian Hydra kills off my opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how it would work, or have I missed something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T18:27:09.493" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T18:56:15.633" Title="Vastwood hydra + Cathars' Crusade + Mercy Killing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16787" CreationDate="2014-06-01T18:43:10.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vastwood Hydra is already in the graveyard at the point where you say &quot;And when the Vastwood Hydra goes to the graveyard&quot;. But everything else is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You declare your attackers. [Kalonian Hydra's third ability triggers.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kalonian Hydra's third ability is placed on the stack, then resolves:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 4 +1/+1 counters to Kalonian Hydra.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add 4 +1/+1 counters to Vastwood Hydra.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent declares his blockers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Mercy Killing targeting the Vastwood Hydra, then it resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrifice Vastwood Hydra. [It goes to the graveyard here. This triggers its second ability.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put 8&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; 1/1 Elf Warriors on the battlefield. [Cathars' Crusade's ability triggers 8 times.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, a player (you) is about to gain priority for the first time since some abilities have triggered, so triggered abilities are placed on the stack. You can place your abilities on the stack in any order you want. It doesn't really matter here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place Vastwood Hyra's second ability on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place Cathars' Crusade's ability on the stack. (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place Cathars' Crusade's ability on the stack. (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place Cathars' Crusade's ability on the stack. (8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability (8) resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a 9th counter on Kalonian Hydra, and one on each of the 8 Elf Warriors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability (7) resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a 10th counter on Kalonian Hydra, and a 2nd on each of the 8 Elf Warriors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability (1) resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place a 16th counter on Kalonian Hydra, and an 8th on each of the 8 Elf Warriors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vastwood Hyra's second ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place 8&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; counters on Kalonian Hydra for a total of 24.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last known information (LKI) is used. When it last existed, it had 8 power and 8 +1/+1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-01T18:56:15.633" LastActivityDate="2014-06-01T18:56:15.633" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T01:32:18.390" Score="8" ViewCount="522" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the weekend I picked up a deck of cards that was originally intended to advertise the 'Page Woven Wire Fence'. Each card has 4 little phrases on it about the company or the product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each card has a number from 1 to 13 in the upper left and right corner (same number in both corners). There are apparently 4 cards of each number (I've got a couple of numbers that are missing a card, but I assume that they are just lost).&#xA;Some cards (I think it's one of each number) have a number of miles at the top center. The others in that number have a leaf in the top center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel certain that this was meant as a game, with the idea being to put the company's products in front of the prospective purchasers regularly, but I'm not familiar with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to properly identify it, just for my own edification. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fgQBv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A scan of some of the cards.&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some potentially relevant facts:&#xA;Page Woven Wire Fence Company was established in 1886 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://archive.org/details/PageWovenWireFenceCompany&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scanned Catalog&lt;/a&gt;) and one of the cards (not shown in the picture) indicates that the company is less than 10 years old, making the deck no later than 1896. Another card (in the picture) says business doubled in 1894 over 1893, so I peg the deck's design at 1895.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE:&#xA;As noted in the comment by SQB, the deck could certainly be used to play Go Fish. But that wouldn't explain the 'Mileage' notations. I wonder if it could be something like a precursor to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2253/touring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Touring&lt;/a&gt;? I've found the &lt;a href=&quot;http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect2=PTO1&amp;amp;Sect2=HITOFF&amp;amp;p=1&amp;amp;u=/netahtml/PTO/search-bool.html&amp;amp;r=1&amp;amp;f=G&amp;amp;l=50&amp;amp;d=PALL&amp;amp;RefSrch=yes&amp;amp;Query=PN/836537&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;patent for Touring&lt;/a&gt;, but it doesn't list any pre-cursors, though with the patent date of 1906, I wouldn't be shocked if it were an improvement (by adding the various hindrances) of a prior game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="428" LastEditorUserId="428" LastEditDate="2014-06-08T02:30:16.183" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T11:32:25.007" Title="Help identify old advertising card game" Tags="|identify-this-game|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16790" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16793" CreationDate="2014-06-02T03:43:19.797" Score="5" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Better Offer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other players may hire Disgruntled&#xA;Crew away from you when in the&#xA;same Sector by paying their hiring&#xA;fee to the bank. The Disgruntled crew&#xA;joins their new Captain’s crew and the&#xA;Disgruntled token is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do crew receiving a better offer bring their gear with them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T04:20:49.337" Title="Do crew receiving a better offer bring their gear with them?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16792" CreationDate="2014-06-02T03:49:50.300" Score="4" ViewCount="1758" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Solid&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are Solid, Contacts will buy&#xA;Cargo and Contraband from you. The&#xA;prices offered appear on the Contact&#xA;side of the Job Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of action is selling cargo and contraband to a solid contact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(We've ruled that it's part of a Deal action, in the same way that you can buy fuel in addition to going through the Supply in a Buy action.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T03:52:06.293" Title="What kind of action is selling cargo and contraband to a solid contact?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16791" CreationDate="2014-06-02T03:52:06.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out we ruled correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Deal Actions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your Firefly is in a Contact’s Sector,&#xA;  you may Deal with that Contact. You&#xA;  may look at 3 and accept up to 2 Jobs&#xA;  from their Contact Deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are Solid with that Contact, you&#xA;  may also sell Cargo and Contraband&#xA;  to them as part of your Deal Action.&#xA;  (see rules for Reputation on pg 15 for&#xA;  details on getting Solid with Contacts).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T03:52:06.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16790" CreationDate="2014-06-02T04:20:49.337" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There really isn't a definitive ruling on this anywhere within the rules or the FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/all_images/GF9/Firefly/Rulebooks/FAQ/Firefly_FAQ_v3.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; does state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only time you may not switch Gear is during a Work Action. Other than that, you may change who is carrying what Gear freely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this I would rule that you are absolutely entitled to strip any Gear off a character before they are taken from your ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T04:20:49.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13949" CreationDate="2014-06-02T06:17:07.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have just played 5 games back-to-back, and were looking for a reason why the cleric sucked.  He consistently lost with the exception of the game where the two clerics went head-to-head and one of them got double-sixed on the retaliation. The rogue and the hero fare much better in combat...and the wizards spells (provided he get a decent roll) are uber!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7738" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T06:17:07.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16795" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T11:53:29.493" Score="5" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question about &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373669&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pyxis of Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When all of the cards are finally turned face up, what determines the order in which their &quot;when X enters the battlefield...&quot; effects resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7504" LastEditorUserId="7504" LastEditDate="2014-06-03T01:26:17.533" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:24:47.987" Title="Pyxis of Pandemonium and 'enters the battlefield' abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-11-18T23:24:53.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16795" CreationDate="2014-06-02T12:51:33.243" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;First the active player (the player whose turn it is, regardless of who activated the Pyxis) puts all of the triggered abilities they control on the stack, then each other person in priority order does the same. When all players are done putting their triggered abilities on the stack, the active player gets priority. When each player has multiple &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; triggers, they get to choose the order as their set of triggers goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;  abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;  chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and&#xA;  resolves state&#xA;  - based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats&#xA;  until no new state&#xA;  - based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information about APNAP (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choice s and/or take actions at the same time, &lt;strong&gt;the active player (the player whose turn it is)&lt;/strong&gt; makes&#xA;  any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the&#xA;  player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required,&#xA;  followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the&#xA;  actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the&#xA;  “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T23:04:21.143" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T23:04:21.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T12:57:48.660" Score="2" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question regarding corruption cards: If you have 5 corruption cards and one of them is activated because it has an activation value of 5, what happens if your discard one or several corruption cards later in the game? Is value 5 card activated forever until you discard it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7742" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T09:07:07.187" Title="Relic - Activated Corruption Cards and discarding" Tags="|relic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-02T18:40:17.220" Score="2" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preferans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Preferans&lt;/a&gt; problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South chose crosses as the trump.&#xA;How many tricks will get South?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LeieW.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the solution the author of problem proposes and that I can't understand is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; You can take 7 tricks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; Usually the South want to put ace of diamonds on his first move. It is an error, if the East will answer with ace king, then just six tricks for South, no options, the game is simple. On move from the clubs marriage, answer with crosses or diamonds - no difference. After drawing these suits there is move with a spades left, that leads to desired 6 tricks for South.&#xA; ( If you understand russian you can find solution here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://review-pref.ru/literatura/54/150/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://review-pref.ru/literatura/54/150/&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me to understand this. What I see as best play for West-East are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. (S) Ad - (W) Kd - (E) 9d&#xA;2. (S) Qd - (W) 8d - (E) 10d&#xA;3. (S) 7d - (W) 9s - (E) Jd&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The task for east here to avoid move in hearts in order to win queen of hearts. But east have only 2 cards to give up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;4. (E) 10c - (S) Qc - (W) 10s&#xA;5. (S) 7c - (W) Js - (E) Jc&#xA;6. (E) Qs - (S) 8c - (W) Ks&#xA;7. (S) 9c - (W) 7h - (E) Ac&#xA;And east have to give up hearts. That leads to only 3 tricks for them.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7730" LastEditorUserId="7730" LastEditDate="2014-06-02T21:57:45.523" LastActivityDate="2014-06-02T21:57:45.523" Title="How to understand the given Preferans puzzle solution?" Tags="|puzzles|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16801" CreationDate="2014-06-03T02:38:12.537" Score="5" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Swindler card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each other player trashes top card of his deck and gains a card with the same cost that you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've encountered a situation when Swindler stumbled upon Spoils card, which is not in the supply, and hence does not have a cost defined. What is to be done then? The owner of the Swindler would of course be happy to give Ruins to the affected player instead, but I am not quite sure what the right way to resolve this is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8zuR0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Swindler (from Intrigue): +2 dollars. Each other player trashes the top card of his deck and gains a card with the same cost that you choose. (This card is action/attack, and costs 3.)&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rhcxr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spoils (from Dark Ages): 3 dollars. When you play this, return it to the Spoils pile. (This is not in the Supply.) (This card is a treasure, and costs 0.)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-03T05:52:02.670" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T05:52:02.670" Title="How does Swindler interact with Spoils (or other cards not in supply)?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-intrigue|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16800" CreationDate="2014-06-03T02:47:33.873" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost of Spoils is 0. When you 'gain(s)' a card, unless it specifically names a card not in the supply, you can only choose for cards from the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copper, Curse, and Ruins (when playing with them) are in the supply and cost 0. Making all valid choices for cards that can be gained when Swindler trashes Spoils. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Cost&quot;&gt;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Cost&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every card in Dominion has a cost indicated in its lower left corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A few costs are listed with asterisks: &lt;em&gt;0*&lt;/em&gt; is used on&#xA;  several cards that can be gained from outside the Supply; the asterisk&#xA;  serves to remind players that they cannot actually be bought for&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;0&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-06-03T02:52:34.657" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T02:52:34.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16802" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-03T15:48:43.627" Score="7" ViewCount="4272" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a new set in Magic the Gathering coming out, called Conspiracy. Conspiracy is a set specifically designed for drafting, and notably, multiplayer games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question revolves around how to fairly run a tournament for a &lt;em&gt;multiplayer draft&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally my group of 6-8 will play 3-4 rounds of swiss pairings, where 3 points are awarded for a win, 1 for a tie, and 0 for a loss. Tie breaks are based off of things such as games won percentage and opponents win percentage (we use &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgarena.appspot.com/&quot;&gt;mtgarena.appspot.com&lt;/a&gt; for handling this part). Our drafts normally take around 4 hours (an evening after work). We have a lot of experience with this and are very comfortable with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I do not have a lot of experience playing multiplayer magic, but in my experience games tend to take a lot longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a &quot;standard&quot; way of running a multiplayer tournament?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do you determine who plays who in a round?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it feasible to run a &quot;fair&quot; multiplayer tournament in 4-5 hours?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T13:31:33.060" Title="How do you run a short multiplayer Conspiracy draft tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|tournament|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16804" CreationDate="2014-06-03T16:41:02.870" Score="3" ViewCount="705" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Grave Betrayal&lt;/a&gt; give me a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt;? I'm guessing no, but enough rules have changed since Onslaught that I'm not going to guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7751" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T06:44:22.007" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T13:43:32.677" Title="Can Grave Betrayal give me a Mutavault?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16803" CreationDate="2014-06-03T16:57:53.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you get a Black Mutavault with a +1/+1 counter on it. It will not be a Zombie because non-creatures cannot have creature subtypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Detailed Explanation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, you need to know why Grave Betrayal triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6c Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d [...] Leaves-the-battlefield abilities will trigger based on [an object's] existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mutavault was a creature prior to death, and so Grave Betrayal &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; trigger. The trigger doesn't care what Mutavault becomes after death. Second, you need to know how Grave Betrayal can still find the Mutavault in the graveyard even though it is a new object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6 Trigger events that involve objects changing zones are called &amp;quot;zone-change triggers.&amp;quot; Many abilities with zone-change triggers attempt to do something to that object after it changes zones. During resolution, these abilities look for the object in the zone that it moved to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, you need to know why lands cannot have creature subtypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.3d An object can't gain a subtype that doesn't correspond to one of that object's types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, here is how the events actually unfold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An opposing Mutavault creature dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grave Betrayal triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grave Betrayal's trigger resolves. It looks for Mutavault in the graveyard and finds it there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mutavault returns to the battlefield under your control. It gains the color Black and a +1/+1 counter. It won't be a Zombie because Zombie is a creature subtype and Mutavault is not a creature at the moment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T13:43:32.677" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16773" CreationDate="2014-06-03T17:12:21.850" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on how the house perceives you as a customer. If you are a &quot;regular&quot; and have played many rounds with them in the past, they will likely deal to you alone today, even if you only play one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is your first time, and you've been betting the minimum, that's kind of a different story. The house may then decide that it's not worth the dealer's time and effort, and may require a &quot;two hand minimum&quot; to run the table, either from you, or between you and another party.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T17:12:21.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16802" CreationDate="2014-06-03T17:22:30.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last time we held a multiplayer tournament at my local store, we followed a procedure similar to the one below. It worked well, and was significantly &lt;em&gt;shorter&lt;/em&gt; than the typical &quot;Swiss draft followed by top 4/8/16 single elimination&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players are randomly placed into pods of 8-9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players draft with their pods&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After drafting, each pod is randomly split into groups of 4-5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players play with their group&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/conspiracymechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on Conspiracy mechanics, Wizards of the Coast backs up the procedure I described above, but they also don't specify how to award prizing. Here is the relevant excerpt from the article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Conspiracy draft works well with eight players, breaking into two&#xA;  four-player games after the draft. However, it's fun for any number of&#xA;  players. We recommend you have no more than eight players in any draft&#xA;  and no more than five players in any game, but experiment to see what&#xA;  works best for your group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our store owner awarded a pack per player that you specifically knocked out. This changed the politics of the game drastically, and although I wouldn't encourage it, it &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; speed up the games significantly. Instead, I suggest awarding prizes according to the order in which players were knocked out. It's possible that the winner didn't knock &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; out, but he still won and should be rewarded accordingly (in my opinion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T13:31:33.060" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T13:31:33.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16809" CreationDate="2014-06-03T19:43:09.940" Score="5" ViewCount="2385" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shaman%20en-Kor&quot;&gt;Shaman en-Kor&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nomads%20en-Kor&quot;&gt;Nomads en-Kor&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogg%20Maniac&quot;&gt;Mogg Maniac&lt;/a&gt;. During my opponent's turn, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inferno&quot;&gt;Inferno&lt;/a&gt;, dealing 6 damage to all creatures and all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for me to redirect the 6 damage done to the shaman and the Nomads to the Mogg Maniac AND have the Mogg deal a total of 18 damage to my opponent before the Mogg Maniac dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the Inferno kill the Maniac before I can redirect any damage to it from my en-Kor creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about the timing of this combo since the shamans and the nomads en-Kor ability is an activated ability that allows me to redirect 1 damage for 0 mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone help me understand this?  (Is the combo even possible?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T05:42:30.413" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T14:51:57.047" Title="What happens when I redirect multiple large sources of damage through the en-Kor ability to Mogg Maniac?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16808" CreationDate="2014-06-03T20:52:11.060" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mogg will deal 18 damage, but it will deal it after dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The en-Kor's redirection only works if you activate it &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; they take damage. When you activate their redirection ability, it creates a shield that will redirect the next point of damage it would take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The redirection shield is a replacement effect. It causes Inferno to deal damage to Mogg instead of the en-Kor. Inferno still deals all of its damage simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the game progresses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Inferno (and retain priority).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Six times,&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Shaman en-Kor's first ability targeting Mogg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shaman en-Kor's first ability resolves, creating a shield that will redirect damage later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Six times,&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Nomads en-Kor's ability targeting Mogg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nomads en-Kor's ability resolves, creating a shield that will redirect damage later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inferno resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will simultaneously deal 18 damage to Mogg and 6 damage to each player. Simultaneously, life is subtracted from players' totals, damage is marked on Mogg and Mogg's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions are performed simultaneously.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any player with non-positive life lose the game. (I'm going to assume noone loses here.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mogg is destroyed for having marked damage exceeding its toughness.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mogg is put in the graveyard from the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mogg's triggered ability is placed on the stack targeting your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mogg's triggered ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It deals 18 damage to the targeted opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Mogg only takes damage once in this scenario (even though some of it was originally intended for the en-Kor), so its ability only triggers once for the entire 18 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T14:51:57.047" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T14:51:57.047" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16808" CreationDate="2014-06-03T20:53:22.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do this. All damage will be done simultaneously; you would need to activate each en-Kor's ability 6 times before the Inferno resolves. When you do, Mogg Maniac will take 18 damage. The toughness of the Mogg Maniac is not relevant here; it is taking 18 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;119.5. Damage dealt to a creature or planeswalker doesn't destroy it. Likewise, the source of that damage doesn't destroy it. Rather, state-based actions may destroy a creature or planeswalker, or otherwise put it into its owner's graveyard, due to the results of the damage dealt to that permanent. See rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T20:53:22.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16802" CreationDate="2014-06-03T22:26:54.867" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since multiplayer games tend to run longer than single-player matches, it's hard to do as many rounds as you would for e.g. a standard pod of 8.  The scheme we've come up with at my LGS is to run two rounds with swiss pairing and per-game prize support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the draft itself.  For convenience, I'm going to presume a perfect 8-person pod here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Break into two 4-person groups (WotC suggests randomly, but even/odd would also work well here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each group plays a single four-person game; award prize support to the top two finishers in each group.  (My LGS is going to do 3 packs for first and 1 for second here, but if you want your draft to perfectly utilize a 36-pack box, then you can go 2/1.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Swiss' the players for a second round: the top two players from each of the two round-1 games form a new four-person group, and the bottom two players from the round-1 games also form a new four-person group.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play out the second round of games, with the same prize support as the first: 2 or 3 packs to the first-place finisher in each group, and 1 pack to the second-place finisher.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, (a) everyone gets to play a couple of games with their deck (and don't be surprised if folks play again on their own after the draft); (b) everyone but the bottom couple of finishers gets &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; measure of prize support (which IMHO is important for a political and 'casual' environment like Conspiracy); and (c) players are incentivized to win their games and not just play for top-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2014-06-03T22:26:54.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16812" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-04T04:23:17.143" Score="2" ViewCount="918" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner deals and opens 1 club.  I have 8 points and 7 diamonds. Opponent has passed.  Should I say 3 diamonds to show 7 card suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7756" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T09:19:30.727" Title="If partner opens and I have 7 in a suit, do I go to game?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16815" CreationDate="2014-06-04T06:58:52.877" Score="3" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;We ran into this crazy situation tonight in a game of cosmic encounter. (shocking...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The parasite had the chance to force an alliance with an attacking player and then win, but he had no extra ships. All of his home and foreign colonies had only one ship. He had three home colonies, so if he were to send any of his home ships to ally he would immediately lose his power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the parasite able to form the alliance first, then send ships against the will of the attacker, even if he loses his power immediately when he sends his ship? Or is it impossible for the alliance to happen because he loses his power as he's sending ships?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No idea of this can even be definitively answered... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7757" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:32:41.110" Title="When does the parasite lose its power?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16813" CreationDate="2014-06-04T16:05:08.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Notice that the text of the &lt;strong&gt;Parasite&lt;/strong&gt; say that &quot;...you may use this power &lt;strong&gt;to ally&lt;/strong&gt;...&quot; (emphasis mine). It does not say &quot;... you may use this power &lt;em&gt;by allying&lt;/em&gt;...&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is that the use of the power and the actual process of allying are not one-and-the-same; &lt;em&gt;using the power&lt;/em&gt; triggers and allows for &lt;em&gt;allying when not invited&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you have three home planets (or two in a four-planet game), you may use your power. Your power gets you to ally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the Alliance phase of the next encounter, you'll either have three home planets or you won't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T16:05:08.027" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-06-04T16:05:08.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16812" CreationDate="2014-06-04T16:05:29.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you mean 8 points?  If you have 8 high-card points and 7 diamonds, your hand is probably too strong for a preemptive jump, especially if most of your points are in your long suit.  With a fantastic hand like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♠ 3 2&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♥ 2&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♦ A K J 9 7 5 4&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♣ 4 3 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you could easily have 3NT opposite a minimum opening such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♠ A 5 4&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♥ Q 10 4 3&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♦ Q 2&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♣ A 7 6 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With such a nice hand, your main concern should be whether your partner has major suit stoppers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a standard american (or 2/1 game forcing) system, you should start by bidding 1♦, and then letting the auction develop.  If your partner rebids 1NT (showing a balanced minimum with stoppers in both majors), you could conceivably raise to 2NT or even 3NT, depending on the type of scoring and your partnership style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 8 points &lt;em&gt;including&lt;/em&gt; distribution, e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♠ 3 2&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♥ 2&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♦ A J 9 7 6 5 3&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; ♣ 4 3 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then a preemptive raise is more reasonable, depending on your partnership agreements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6178" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T16:05:29.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-04T20:22:05.600" Score="8" ViewCount="18421" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been brainstorming a new card game idea for a while, something that could be described as &quot;Cards Against Humanity&quot; meets &quot;Munchkin&quot; but while I mostly have the rules and everything together I have been at a loss to find something to rapidly prototype, print, change, and make the cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like something that could read from a database, Excel spreadsheet, or something similar and then be able to produce Word document files or PDFs that I could then easily print to be able to beta-test the game with friends.  Ideally you would be able to define the basic components/formats of each card and then just fill in the fields for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone know of tools to assist in rapid prototyping and printing of CCG style cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7760" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-06-04T21:33:31.233" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T15:19:22.143" Title="Are There Any Good Tools For Developing CCG Or Other Card Games?" Tags="|game-design|playing-cards|game-development|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-03-27T17:54:46.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16817" CreationDate="2014-06-04T21:37:32.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was going to suggest Strange Eons &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgjennings.ca/eons/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cgjennings.ca/eons/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Whilst not specifically for card games,  it can come in handy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The  question linked by @shujaa above also has some good links&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-06-04T21:37:32.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16797" CreationDate="2014-06-04T21:48:49.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes,  activated corruption cards remain activated until they are discarded via an event or action that instructs you to discard them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,  note that you only check to activate corruption cards as you receive them.  eg.  if the first corruption card you recieve is a 5 it does not activate and is placed face down.  Even if you reach 5 corruption cards later in the game,  that first card will not activate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find this information on page 17 of the rule book&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T07:13:19.730" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T07:13:19.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16825" CreationDate="2014-06-04T22:17:06.483" Score="3" ViewCount="2444" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner has bid nil or blind nil. The player to my right led the trick, and I can't follow suit, but have one or more Spades in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible situations:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know my partner has no Spades left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I know my partner has no card of the led suit left, but may have Spades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I don't know whether my partner has any Spades or led suit cards left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My response:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play my lowest Spade. I know that this will allow my partner to get rid of any high cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play my highest Spade. My partner may have a Spade, so playing high will allow them to play their high spades to get rid of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play my highest Spade. My partner may have or may not have to follow suit, or may or may not have to play a Spade.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid (i.e. good) strategy? How would additional knowledge of what cards have been played affect my strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5939" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2018-09-27T12:57:05.543" LastActivityDate="2019-01-20T07:43:28.233" Title="What card should I play when my partner has bid nil and I can't follow suit but do have Spades?" Tags="|spades|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="16821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17866" CreationDate="2014-06-05T00:12:45.963" Score="1" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for BSG state that &quot;Should the President or Admiral be revealed as a Cylon, the next player in the line of succession for that title claims it&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because of the Administration ability, it's possible someone could be president who already isn't first in line of sucession.  If that person turns out to be a Cylon, do you really look at the &quot;next&quot; person on the line of succession list, or do you go back to the top and look for the &quot;first&quot; available person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T14:11:32.620" Title="Does &quot;next&quot; in line-of-succession mean &quot;first remaining&quot; in line-of-succession?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T02:17:25.823" Score="4" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Scenario 19, the Traitor's Tome says that certain beasts get extra successes when they initiate an attack. What does &quot;extra successes&quot; mean?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we played, we assumed it meant add the number of successes to the roll, but we were not sure. For example, we added 2 to the total of the dice when the Bear initiated an attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7762" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T00:47:30.130" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:31:34.400" Title="Beast combat in Scenario 19 (The Beastmaster)" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16831" CreationDate="2014-06-05T05:09:51.210" Score="2" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without changing &quot;the official rules&quot; of the game, what sorts of house rules can be imposed on player interaction to speed up game-play for games that generally encourage players to discuss options (in cooperative games) or cut deals with each other (in competitive games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I imagine adding a rule to some board games which makes secret deals more difficult that says &quot;once per turn, you may pass a note to someone else at the table.  Otherwise you can't discuss anything in secret.&quot;  To make it more interesting, one might even add a die roll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 &amp;lt;- Throw away the note&#xA;2-5 &amp;lt;- Successful pass&#xA;6 &amp;lt;- Reveal the note for everyone else at the table to see&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I imagine such a rule might backfire and slow down the game even more; especially if people start trying to come up with systems to encrypt their notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although my friends would probably tell you that this is a lie and that I'm usually the worst offender, I'm not thrilled with sacrificing game-pace for the sake of over-analyzing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EXPLANATION:&#xA;This question is meant to be general, but the Game of Thrones board-game was the particular example I had in mind.  I played this game with a group which had added the (IMHO awful) house rule that anyone may look at anyone else's house cards still in hand.  Supposedly this rule was added to keep people from writing down which cards everyone else had played already and to minimize the advantage more experienced players have.  What it did was ensure that everyone spent time analyzing all possible outcomes of each battle before the battle is even fought.  Unsurprisingly, the same group had to also add a house rule that the game only lasts 5 turns rather than 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastEditorUserId="7404" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T05:29:04.697" LastActivityDate="2019-09-20T09:04:38.387" Title="Speeding up complicated games by limiting player interaction" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16821" CreationDate="2014-06-05T08:32:51.967" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 28 of the rulebook says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should the President or Admiral be revealed as a Cylon, &lt;strong&gt;the highest player in the line of succession&lt;/strong&gt; for that title claims it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so it will never go to the &quot;next&quot; person in line, always to the &lt;strong&gt;highest&lt;/strong&gt; (non-Cylon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T08:32:51.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16820" CreationDate="2014-06-05T10:56:01.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. Have you and the opponents bid for most or all of the tricks? If so then your left hand opponent (LHO) will probably not let the trick go by for fear of going down themselves. If not, and RHO has led a low card, then partner's nil may be in danger and you probably won't have to work hard to get your bid, so you need to protect partner from LHO playing low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to protect partner, do you think he will have to follow suit? If so, then you can either trump small so he can throw a high card, or discard small and save your strength for later if you think he can duck this trick. If not, then a high trump will allow him to under-trump if he has an awkward middling trump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you know the cards that have been played, hopefully you'll know how many high cards are gone and what risk this trick poses. A good partner will also try to help you by good discarding - ideally he'll discard short suits first (if you have K765432, you don't gain anything by chucking the King early!), and by discarding a low card in a suit he's essentially saying &quot;this suit is safe, please lead it whenever you can&quot;. Deliberately winning the lead with the intention of giving partner a free discard is very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In any case, aren't spades always trumps? Or is that just the MS online version?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T10:56:01.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-05T11:28:33.360" Score="1" ViewCount="310" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mate just attacked with 2 creatures. One is unblockable and has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hidden%20Strings&quot;&gt;Hidden Strings&lt;/a&gt; as a cypher on it. The other has been blocked by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Frost&quot;&gt;Wall of Frost&lt;/a&gt;, which now doesn't untap next untap step. Can hidden strings untap it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are assuming it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7764" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-05T16:46:32.330" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T16:46:32.330" Title="Wall of Frost vs a cyphered Hidden Strings" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16830" CreationDate="2014-06-05T12:39:25.357" Score="5" ViewCount="2693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; on the storm trigger on cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grapeshot&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt; to prevent any copies from being made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6597" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T14:12:19.717" Title="Stifling a storm card" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16826" CreationDate="2014-06-05T12:45:16.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can because Wall of frost says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Wall of Frost blocks a creature, that creature doesn't untap during its controller's next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it doesn't say anything about untapping by another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5984" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T12:45:16.653" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16827" CreationDate="2014-06-05T12:55:23.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Storm is a triggered ability, so it can be countered by Stifle. Your opponent will only get the effect of the original spell, so he will end up doing one damage with Grapeshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T12:55:23.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16827" CreationDate="2014-06-05T14:12:19.717" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The reminder text for Storm says &quot;When you cast this spell...&quot; You can know that this is a triggered ability because of the &quot;when&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;&lt;strong&gt;when&lt;/strong&gt;,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And we can check the rules about Storm itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.39. Storm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;702.39a Storm is a &lt;strong&gt;triggered ability&lt;/strong&gt; that functions while the spell is on the stack. “Storm” means “When you play this spell, put a copy of it onto the stack for each other spell that was played before it this turn. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for any number of the copies.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the Storm ability triggers and goes on the stack like any other triggered ability, at which point you can respond to it with Stifle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T14:12:19.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16823" CreationDate="2014-06-05T15:13:23.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various ideas that I've used in the past to help. Be warned though - ultimately long games are long, and there's only a limited amount you can do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Use a timer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Timed negotiation phases go back to &lt;em&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/em&gt;. They're an official rule feature of &lt;em&gt;Here I Stand&lt;/em&gt;. Not only does the time limit help the game along, and focus players, but it actually adds an interesting layer of strategy because you can't always talk to who you want to when you want to, meaning players have to work around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a few negotiation-heavy games feature a specified negotiation phase. But it's quite easy to add one - look at the turn structure and decide where it's best put and then enforce it, and the timer, with an iron first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Ban paper and mobile devices&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've discovered one of the worst culprits for slowing down games generally are players who insist on making notes, referring to them and optimizing their strategies. Unless it's absolutely essential as part of the play that they be allowed to do it, ban the recording of anything on anything except for the officially supplied game components and enforce it with an iron fist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Overlap wherever possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a surprising number of games where players can actually overlap their turn structure to try and get things done faster. This isn't specific to negotiation per-se. In &lt;em&gt;Titan&lt;/em&gt;, for instance, the meat is the movement phase. So after playing X is has finished moving and is recruiting, the next player in line can be checking their stacks, splitting and rolling for movement. Identify areas suitable for concurrent play in your game, and enforce everyone doing just that with an iron fist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Play online&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I never play Diplomacy in real life any more, because it takes too long. I do, however play by email. And doing so has given me a particular delight in the fact that I have to negotiate via email. You can't see the face, or the body language of the person you're negotiating with, which leads for interesting decision making. Not to mention that it's pretty thematic since early 20th century diplomats spent a lot of time writing to each other. The same is probably true of AGoT, except they probably write with iron fists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2014-06-05T15:13:23.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16833" CreationDate="2014-06-06T03:57:40.017" Score="9" ViewCount="45164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing modern with the owner of a shop.  He played a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146593&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt; which he used to bring in 7 lands: 5 basic mountains and 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190400&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He then claimed that each &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190400&quot;&gt;Valakut&lt;/a&gt; triggered 5 times (killing me).  I am doubting this now.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is my reason: The two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190400&quot;&gt;Valakut&lt;/a&gt; cards entered at the same time as the other 5 basic lands.  That means when they were on the battlefield and their ability was in effect, the other 5 basic lands were already there too.  That seems too late to trigger a &quot;Enters the Battlefield&quot; effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is my question.  Am I right or wrong?  If I am wrong, please show me how the enter the battlefield effect can trigger for something that enters the battlefield at the same time as itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am right, please show me the rules that prove it.  I now have two shop owners that are convinced that this is a legal play.  If it is not legal, I am going to need clear rules citations to convince them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note:  If I am wrong and it is a legal play, then I have a follow up scenario.  Say I have 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262861&quot;&gt;Champion of the Parish&lt;/a&gt; cards and 5 other human cards in my graveyard.  If I play a spell that lets me return all of them to the battlefield at the same time (say &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239993&quot;&gt;Angel of Glory's Rise&lt;/a&gt;), would the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262861&quot;&gt;Champion&lt;/a&gt; cards get 6 +1/+1 counters on them?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, if the trick that was played on me with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190400&quot;&gt;Valakut&lt;/a&gt; is legal then my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262861&quot;&gt;Champion&lt;/a&gt; cards should also get the +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T04:29:16.037" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T15:20:57.540" Title="Cards entering the battlefield simultaneously and &quot;Enter the Battlefield&quot; effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-11-18T23:24:06.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16832" CreationDate="2014-06-06T04:32:04.483" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent is correct, whenever multiple objects enter the battlefield at the same time, their enters the battlefield triggers will all see all of them as on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6a Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. These are written, &quot;When [this object] enters the battlefield, ...&quot; or &quot;Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield, ...&quot; Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that match the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the trigger happens AFTER the cards actually enter the battlefield. There is no time that Valakut was on the battlefield but the other Mountains weren't; so by the time Valakut's &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; triggers, they are all on the battlefield. If it did not work this way, any card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Visionary%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Visionary&lt;/a&gt; that had &quot;when [CARDNAME] enters the battlefield...&quot; wouldn't work, because its ability doesn't technically exist until the card was put on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a well-known combo for Valakut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that this works for Champion of the Parish as well; the Champions would get 6 +1+1 counters in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See similar question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8399/do-creatures-that-enter-the-battlefield-at-the-same-time-see-each-other-enter&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T04:32:04.483" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16837" CreationDate="2014-06-06T05:53:47.410" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about the base from the Science Fiction Double Feature expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Nexus (19; 3, 3, 2): The winner replaces this base with a base of his or her choice from the base discard pile, if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unclear about the timing of the replacement. Does this ability resolve before or after the base scores? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's before, what is the point of printing victory points on the card? Its value would always be dictated by the base that replaces it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's after, why isn't this ability worded similar to The Mothership and other bases in the base set, something like &quot;After this base scores, the winner replaces this base with...&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play it as after, though the change in wording caused me to doubt my interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what happens if there are no bases in the base discard pile, does the base get replaced from the base draw pile as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1007" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:20:31.670" Title="The Nexus - when does its ability resolve?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-06T08:58:45.323" Score="4" ViewCount="1685" Body="&lt;p&gt;In The Lord of the Rings LCG, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lotrlcg.com/Card/Focus/1009&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;D&amp;uacute;nhere&lt;/a&gt; is a hero with a permanent effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;D&amp;uacute;nhere can target enemies in the staging area when he attacks alone. When doing so, he gets +1(Attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What does it mean for him to attack &quot;alone&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean that he cannot combine with other attackers when attacking the staging area?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it mean that if you want to use this ability, no other characters may make an attack of any kind? For just you, or for all players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example to highlight: There's a Goblin Sniper in the staging area and an Eastern Crows engaging me. May I use (for instance) a Wandering Took to attack the Eastern Crows, and also use D&amp;uacute;nhere's ability to attack the Goblin Sniper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T19:02:56.180" Title="When is Dúnhere considered to be attacking alone?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16834" CreationDate="2014-06-06T14:35:30.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm unclear about the timing of the replacement. Does this ability resolve before or after the base scores? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability doesn't cause the base to replaced. It simply changes &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; it is replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bases are replaced at the end of the base scoring process. A base is normally discarded and replaced by one from the face-down base pile. Nexus is instead replaced by one from the discard pile if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happens after points are assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it's after, why isn't this ability worded similar to The Mothership and other bases in the base set&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Space on the card? Better wording?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, what happens if there are no bases in the base discard pile, does the base get replaced from the base draw pile as usual?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. If Nexus isn't capable of changing what normally happens, then it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-06T19:20:31.670" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:20:31.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16839" CreationDate="2014-06-06T16:37:13.187" Score="4" ViewCount="2205" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had this situation come in a game last night, and I wanted to make sure that we played it correctly and that I understood the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A had an &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/sok/en/8.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eiganjo Free-Riders&lt;/a&gt; in play. During this turn, he cast an &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/tsts/en/10.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Icatian Javelineers&lt;/a&gt;. He then ended his turn. During the upkeep of his next turn, he targeted the Javelineers with the Free-Riders' ability and then responded by tapping the Javelineers to use their ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By my understanding, the Javelineers ability would resolve first and he'd get to do a point of damage. Then the Free-Riders' ability would resolve, returning the Javelineers to his hand, and allowing him to cast them again. That seemed to be within the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I wasn't sure when the Javelineers' summoning sickness wore off. Does it wear off in time for him to use this ability before they get returned to his hand by the Free-Riders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T16:44:28.057" Title="Can I activate the tap ability of a creature summoned last turn before I have to remove it to my hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-03-24T01:44:51.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16838" CreationDate="2014-06-06T16:44:28.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, he can do this. The rule for summoning sickness is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6  A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been &lt;strong&gt;under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began&lt;/strong&gt;. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine. In this case, the creature was under his control continuously since his most recent turn (which is the current turn) began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T16:44:28.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16841" CreationDate="2014-06-06T19:11:12.467" Score="7" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what scenarios or formats can a player draw even when they are going first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I usually play that if there are more than 2 teams (each team having 1 or more players) then the first team can draw on their first turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other scenarios or formats that affect this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:21:32.687" Title="Drawing and going first" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16840" CreationDate="2014-06-06T19:21:32.687" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there are more than two players/teams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;103.7a In a two-player game, the player who plays first skips the draw step (see rule 504, “Draw Step”) of his or her first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;103.7b In a Two-Headed Giant game, the team who plays first skips the draw step of their first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;103.7c In all other multiplayer games, no player skips the draw step of his or her first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-06T19:21:32.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16668" CreationDate="2014-06-07T03:56:38.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6th edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When rolling with a weapon with the instant death rule, the wound itself delivers instant death.  The rulebook advises:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember to use different coloured dice or otherwise distinguish&#xA;  between the Wounds that have different special rules attached to them&#xA;  (like those inflicting Instant Death....)  (p. 25)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, since the die itself is the vehicle for Instant Death, you would be able to (in order to maximize your damage), apply your Instant Death wound first (assuming compliance with normal wound allocation rules), and allow all additional wounds to be distributed to other enemies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is more than one eligible candidate, the player controlling the&#xA;  models being attacked chooses which model it is allocated to. (p. 25)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7th edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Follow the above rules, except when dealing with Gargantuan creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;UNSTOPPABLE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any attack that normally inflicts Instant Death or says that the&#xA;  target model is removed from play inflicts D3 Wounds on a Gargantuan&#xA;  Creature or Flying Gargantuan Creature instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other notes:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instant Death effect is voided by the Eternal Warrior special rule; when this occurs, only the -1 wound applies, but not the &quot;reduce to 0 wounds and remove from play&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you can choose your path 'a', which is well within your rights and is supported by both rulebook editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T06:56:02.513" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T06:56:02.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-07T07:25:36.000" Score="1" ViewCount="1211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in playing HeroClix but I'm not sure how to start. What starter set should I get? Are individual  figures expensive? How do I find a community of players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7777" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T18:10:57.607" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T18:10:57.607" Title="How should I start with HeroClix?" Tags="|heroclix|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16832" CreationDate="2014-06-07T15:20:57.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both you and your opponent are incorrect :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us look at valakut wording :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle enters the battlefield tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a Mountain enters the battlefield under your control, if you&#xA;control at least &lt;strong&gt;five other&lt;/strong&gt; Mountains, you may have Valakut, the&#xA;Molten Pinnacle deal 3 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what happens at the stack :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 mountains + 2 valakut enters simultaneously, so there are 10 valakut triggers (5 mountains * 2 valakut).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, EACH mountain trigger check whether there's at least &lt;strong&gt;FIVE OTHER&lt;/strong&gt;, BUT, there are not. There are only &lt;strong&gt;FOUR OTHER&lt;/strong&gt; mountains, so it doesn't successfully deal 3 damage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hint : take a closer look at &amp;quot;OTHER&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Btw, tell the store owner : &amp;quot;you need 6 mountains + 1 valakut + opponent has 18 life or less to combo-kill at 7 lands&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, this kind of effect check is &lt;strong&gt;CHECKED UPON RESOLUTION&lt;/strong&gt;, so, it's never too late as you stated earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source : I play scapeshift competitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-07T15:20:57.540" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16845" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-07T16:53:58.723" Score="4" ViewCount="15763" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any dice games that you can play with a standard role-playing 7-die set (d4, d6, d8, d10, d%, d12, d20)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you have some time to kill before your tabletop session starts, or during a break. It'd be nice to have a game that doesn't require anything beyond this set of dice. I'm open to games that can be played alone or with friends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an offshoot from another question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://rpg.stackexchange.com/questions/39546/is-there-a-name-for-the-standard-7-die-set&quot;&gt;Is there a name for the standard 7-die set?&lt;/a&gt; I recently received a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/model/126266/thorn-dice-set-with-decader.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;very nice set of dice&lt;/a&gt; as an anniversary gift. I'm not currently in a tabletop session, but I would like to play with the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7765" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:45:50.650" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T04:12:44.037" Title="Are there any dice games you can play with a standard 7-die set?" Tags="|game-design|recommendations|mechanics|dice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-06-11T00:59:00.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16848" CreationDate="2014-06-07T16:56:34.227" Score="3" ViewCount="807" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am fairly sure on this one, but I wanted to ask to be really sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382356&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Secrets of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; and a deck with a lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382348&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rousing of Souls&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in thinking that because the tokens made by &lt;em&gt;Rousing of Souls&lt;/em&gt; are just &quot;1/1/ white Spirit&quot; tokens (no name), there is no way for them to gain the tapping for mana ability that &lt;em&gt;Secrets of Paradise&lt;/em&gt; can grant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-07T23:57:41.827" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T03:36:03.717" Title="Abilities that need a name and unnamed tokens" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16846" CreationDate="2014-06-07T17:09:10.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, the tokens made by Rousing of Souls will have the name &quot;Spirit&quot; by 110.5c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5c. A spell or ability that creates a creature token sets both its name and its creature type. If the spell or ability doesn't specify the name of the creature token, its name is the same as its creature type(s). A &quot;Goblin Scout creature token,&quot; for example, is named &quot;Goblin Scout&quot; and has the creature subtypes Goblin and Scout. Once a token is on the battlefield, changing its name doesn't change its creature type, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as there is no &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt; named &quot;Spirit&quot;, you cannot name it for Secrets of Paradise (per 201.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.3. If an effect instructs a player to name a card, the player must choose the name of a card that exists in the Oracle card reference (see rule 108.1) and is legal in the format of the game the player is playing. (See rule 100.6.) If the player wants to name a split card, the player must choose the name of one of its halves, but not both. (See rule 708.) If the player wants to name a flip card's alternative name, the player may do so. (See rule 709.) If the player wants to name the back face of a double-faced card, the player may do so. (See rule 711.) A player may not choose the name of a token unless it's also the name of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that situations have occurred in the past, where &quot;token names&quot; have later been elevated to &quot;card name&quot; status. For example, in Future Sight, the white spellshaper, Goldmeadow Lookout made tokens named &quot;Goldmeadow Harrier&quot;. At the time, you could not name &quot;Goldmeadow Harrier&quot; if an effect asked you to name a card. Sometime later, in Lorwyn block, Goldmeadow Harrier was actually printed &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=!Goldmeadow+Harrier&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;as a creature card&lt;/a&gt;, which then &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; allow you name it if an effect asked you to name a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T03:36:03.717" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T03:36:03.717" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="16852" CreationDate="2014-06-08T08:10:38.507" Score="8" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Netrunner quite recently. Love it so far. However, we're finding it &lt;em&gt;slow&lt;/em&gt;--or rather, I think Netrunner is &lt;em&gt;finding us&lt;/em&gt; slow. I've only played a handful of games with one friend so far, but our fastest game has been close to 2 hours (and for a single game, not a match!). The impression I get from BGG and the tournament rules is that this is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; to slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To encourage us to speed up, I thought using a clock would be a good idea. (Also open to other suggestions.) My question is, &lt;strong&gt;what time settings and rules should be used?&lt;/strong&gt; The goal is just to encourage speedy play by introducing a small penalty for slow play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Run out of time =&gt; forfeit doesn't sound like much fun, probably run out of time means your turn immediately ends (after current actions resolve) could work... which would mean having time that resets every turn. And maybe switch the clock while waiting for reactions, e.g., runner declares run on HQ, punches clock while corp decides whether or not to rez first piece of ICE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much time should go on the clock? What time settings and rules should we try? Are there established conventions for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T16:02:40.840" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T16:02:40.840" Title="Clocking Android Netrunner" Tags="|android-netrunner|play-time|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2014-06-08T09:08:54.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I have actually only played as Germany/Italy, (and won) I would suggest that a) the US player &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; sends over as many troops as possible when they come into that war, and attacks probably Italy or Southern France - that is, if the British player has been able to clear the Mediterranean. Russia should build a strong front line, but not have all their troops in large bundles - it's too easy to wipe them out with a few lucky dice rolls. Instead, if the initial defense fails, bear a fighting retreat to the cities, where you gather all your troops. As Britain, try to keep the Mediterranean open, and defend Egypt - build a factory there, and from there, attack the rest of Africa. If this doesn't work, build a factory in South Africa and do the same. Apart from that, Britain's responsibility is to the air and sea. but be prepared to help the US in liberating France when the time comes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7784" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T09:08:54.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T11:41:34.907" Score="2" ViewCount="216" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlin.net/pandante/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlingames.com/pages/pandante&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pandante&lt;/a&gt;, about resolving the winner of a gambit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you’re challenged as lying about your poker hand, your two options are: a) keep your hand secret, fold, and pay each challenger 5 gold or b) reveal your hand to prove that you are telling the truth and each challenger pays you 5X gold where X is the number of players in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other fines in the game are fixed, and do not individually scale with the number of players.  In general, the number of players seems to be taken into account by the fact that the more people challenging etc the more money changes hands, naturally.  Why is it different in this specific instance of challenging a truthful best hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that, the more players there are, the harder it is to successfully be the best hand at the end, without lying, and so achieving that deserves more reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7785" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T03:50:30.207" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T03:50:30.207" Title="In Pandante, why is the fine for a failed challenge against a player telling the truth multiplied by the total number of players?" Tags="|pandante|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16849" CreationDate="2014-06-08T12:05:25.417" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I wouldn't worry so much about slow play when learning, and I would not recommend complicating it further with a clock.  Here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) This game requires lots of mental arithmetic, especially when playing as the runner.  How much might that run cost?  Do I have the breaker suite required to make success likely?  What is the worst case scenario?  When you are learning, you can easily fall into analysis paralysis, which will slow the game down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Some more information: Are you playing core only?  Which factions are you playing?  You should know that if you are playing the &quot;FFG Recommended&quot; matchup, Shaper vs. Jinteki, Jinteki is a notoriously slow corp to play/win with, especially against a cautious runner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) About tournaments, yes - two hours per game is way too slow.  In a tournament setting, you are typically allotted 65 minutes for two games (playing as both the runner and the corp).  However, because of this, I want to emphasize: decks that play fast are more common in a tournament setting than those that play slower.  For example, one of the most popular builds right now, the &quot;Astrobiotics&quot; deck (an NBN deck that relies on Biotic Labours to score agendas out of hand) is very light on defence and basically crumbles if it doesn't win within the first ten or so turns.  So, there are definitely decks that are really fun to play in casual play, but aren't really brought to tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) From the above, know your decks!  If you know exactly what you have in the deck, you will know its strengths and weaknesses, and as you play more, you will start playing it much faster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recommendation?  Play more.  And against other people.  I'm sure there are some playgroups in Seattle you and your friend can show up to.  Learn the cardpool.   Having to read each card as it is played will drastically increase playtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT, if you are set on using a clock, I would just use it to time how long my decisions took in a given match.  If it is above ~35 minutes, consider what could have been played differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-06-08T12:05:25.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16853" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-08T13:16:43.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sirlingames.com/pages/pandante&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pandante&lt;/a&gt; is a poker game about pandas and lying, developed by Sirlin Games. It has mechanics beyond regular poker games, and features no player elimination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T08:47:06.137" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T08:47:06.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="16854" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-08T13:16:43.993" Score="0" Body="Pandante is a poker game about pandas and lying, developed by Sirlin Games. It has mechanics beyond regular poker games, and features no player elimination." OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-09T14:48:28.440" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T14:48:28.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17853" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-08T23:32:32.237" Score="1" ViewCount="8105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why keep score for the points if on phase 10 there will be only one winner? I assume as soon as one person lays the phase 10 and goes out first he or she will be the winner regardless of the previous scores? No one can lay out phase 10 at the same time, right? How will there be a tie? In what situation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7786" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:33:47.557" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T20:33:47.557" Title="When playing Phase 10 with 2 or more players, how do we conclude the hand?" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16845" CreationDate="2014-06-09T09:06:26.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34947/dice-the-evolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34947/dice-the-evolution&lt;/a&gt; ?  I've never tried it but you only need to print out 1 page of paper to give it a shot :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T09:06:26.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17857" CreationDate="2014-06-09T12:33:14.823" Score="1" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a multi-part question about empty remote servers. Each of these questions came up during gameplay and I'm hoping to get clarification on them since some of the interactions aren't completely clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What defines an empty remote server? If a remote server has ICE&#xA;protecting it but no agenda/asset/whatever installed behind the ICE,&#xA;is it still empty?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is an empty remote server analogous to a new&#xA;remote server? For an example of context, let's say when playing&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mushin No Shin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider a remote server with no ICE that has an asset installed with an&#xA;ability that has a cost of trashing the asset (say, like the remove from game ability on &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jackson&#xA;Howard&lt;/a&gt;). The runner runs on&#xA;the server and in response the corp trashes the asset. Does the&#xA;server still exist or is it simply an empty remote server? Is the&#xA;run still successful?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T04:37:54.450" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T09:34:43.507" Title="What are some of the different interactions with empty remote servers in Android: Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17856" CreationDate="2014-06-09T13:02:47.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A remote server requires &lt;strong&gt;at least one piece of ICE protecting it&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;at least one card installed in the server itself&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. agenda/asset/upgrade) to exist. The three central servers always exist. &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;Empty&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; would refer to a server with only ICE protecting it, and nothing in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Empty servers already exist so is different from a new server. Cards like Mushin No Shin, which specify a new server, &lt;strong&gt;must interact with a new server&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. that they create).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a server ceases to exist during the run (e.g. as the result of a Jackson Howard removal that you describe), &lt;strong&gt;the run immediately ends, and is considered neither successful nor unsuccessful&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same is true if the trashed card is an ICE. For instance, if an empty server is defended only by a Data Mine which triggers, the server ceases to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T09:34:43.507" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12729" CreationDate="2014-06-09T17:14:35.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this program that a guy at university made to abstract Go to any topology, using any number of vertices as well, it is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.columbia.edu/~keenan/Projects/3DTashokuGo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3D Tashoku Go&lt;/a&gt;. Other than as a curiosity I haven't seen anyone take play in this way as a serious variant of Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just changing the size of the grid leads to games that feel very different from a standard 19x19 game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't let that really dissuade you from exploring weird variants of Go, the game was originally played on a 17x17 board and I've seen people play on up to 31x31 on KGS at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These games are vastly different strategically. At 23x23 and greater the rush for the corners and sides feel less important than the fight for the center. Life is easy to be had and the game feels fairly relaxed and open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2811" LastActivityDate="2014-06-09T17:14:35.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16845" CreationDate="2014-06-09T19:09:41.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With 2-3 sets, you could play &lt;a href=&quot;https://cheapass.com/free-games/button-men/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Button Men&quot;&gt;Button Men&lt;/a&gt;, a Cheapass Game about capturing dice. Lots of entirely free characters available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastEditorUserId="32946" LastEditDate="2020-08-01T04:12:44.037" LastActivityDate="2020-08-01T04:12:44.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17868" CreationDate="2014-06-10T02:07:15.233" Score="6" ViewCount="13460" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased 2 sets of &lt;em&gt;Coup: The Resistance&lt;/em&gt; So that I could play with more than 6 people. However, The included rules don't state how many of each card to use when dealing with more than 6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the developers intended for more than 6 players to be able to play with additional cards but I can't find the recommended numbers anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7791" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T03:36:26.683" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T18:08:51.250" Title="How To Play Coup: The Resistance with more than one set of cards?" Tags="|house-rules|expansions|coup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17869" CreationDate="2014-06-10T03:49:25.290" Score="7" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built me a Commander deck for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt;.  I did some searching for ways to get  card draw (because I was running out of cards) and one of the card I looked at was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yawgmoth%27s%20Bargain&quot;&gt;Yawgmoth&amp;#39;s Bargain&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am always careful to check to make sure that the card I want to play is legal.  So I loaded the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Printings.aspx?multiverseid=15193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sets and Legality&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; tab for &lt;em&gt;Yawgmoth's Bargain&lt;/em&gt;.  Since it is listed as legal for Commander, I bought the card and have been happily playing it in my Commander games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, tonight I was browsing around and got to the Commander banned list (&lt;a href=&quot;https://mtgcommander.net/index.php/banned-list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MtgCommander&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/100cardsingleton-commander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards&lt;/a&gt;).  To my surprise I saw &lt;em&gt;Yawgmoth's Bargain&lt;/em&gt; on the banned list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frustrated that I had missed this I went back to the &amp;quot;Sets and Legality&amp;quot; page on Gatherer to double check.  As you can guess, the card is listed as &amp;quot;Legal&amp;quot; for Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, which one wins?  A ban list on a web page, or the Gatherer card database?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I am happy to get opinions on this.  But what I really want is a rule to says which one is the authoritative source of legality.  (Without a rule, we are all just giving opinions right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-01-26T12:16:11.633" LastActivityDate="2022-01-26T12:16:11.633" Title="Which is the authoritative ban list: MTGCommander.net or Gatherer?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17861" CreationDate="2014-06-10T03:55:46.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;The official banned list for commander games&quot;&lt;/a&gt; is found on the EDH site, and it includes Yawgmoth's Bargain. Commander is just a reflection of EDH. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the looks of it, DCI does not run Commander/EDH tournaments (since it doesn't have a ban list for it), but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/resources/banned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Banned / Restricted Lists for DCI-Sanctioned Magic: The Gathering Tournaments&quot;&lt;/a&gt; lists Yawgmoth's Bargain as banned in MTGO Commander games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T17:46:33.473" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T17:46:33.473" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-10T07:31:44.803" Score="3" ViewCount="2420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was teaching myself how to play the Hex board game by reading some books. I learned how to do 2x2 and 3x3 hex games by starting at the principal diagonal. I wanted to know what the winning strategy would be for player one (white) in a 4x4 Hex game starting from the principal diagonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a 4x4 Hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Show that White has a winning strategy, starting anywhere on the principal diagonal that is in any of the hexagons 1,6, 11, or 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is what the setup would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let the Hexagons be represented by numbers such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 2 3 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 6 7 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 10 11 12&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 14 15 16&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let White have the first move. Let black have the second move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White opens up at 6 (principal diagonal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7792" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T08:37:26.637" Title="Hex board game strategy" Tags="|board-game-adaptations|board-size|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17861" CreationDate="2014-06-10T10:32:00.610" Score="-9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ah.. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commander I see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on your play group then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really wanna check the legality, I always look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiccards.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magiccards.info&lt;/a&gt;. It's pretty reliable for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;UPDATE : &#xA;It seems that I need to make some clarification for these downvotes :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also mentioned a site which is reliable for me to decide legality of cards in a certain format. Which I believe, refer to the gatherer itself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;mtgcommander rules is also made based on community / certain play group. Bear that in mind before downvoting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, to asker, isn't it obvious that you need to &quot;obey&quot; the rules of the house above anything since WotC is the maker of the game? Everything else is subjective and community-made rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastEditorUserId="7720" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T19:09:16.333" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T19:09:16.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13308" CreationDate="2014-06-10T11:38:05.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read books (including &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1453632891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;every book in Janice Kim's series&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play games with others (try &lt;a href=&quot;http://pandanet-igs.com/communities/gopanda&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoPanda&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Go puzzles (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goproblems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoProblems&lt;/a&gt; is great, although it costs $10 per year to save your progress.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Review other players' games. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/096447963X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Janice Kim's second book&lt;/a&gt; includes 3 great game reviews. Though it's also helpful to just go to GoPanda and watch high ranking games that are in progress.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7793" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T11:38:05.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16821" CreationDate="2014-06-10T14:11:32.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is corrected in the official FAQ: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-3-new.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_1-1-3-new.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On page 28, the rules for Line of Succession should read  “Should the&#xA;  President or Admiral be revealed as a Cylon, the &lt;strong&gt;highest&lt;/strong&gt; player in&#xA;  the line of succession for that title claims it.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T14:11:32.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17853" CreationDate="2014-06-10T15:53:41.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Score is used when more than 1 player completes Phase 10 in the same hand. Completing a phase doesn't end the hand immediately; a player must go out by getting rid of all his or her cards. So a second player can complete Phase 10 after the first player has done so. Once a player goes out by getting rid of all of his or her cards; then if multiple players have completed Phase 10; score is used to determine winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;GOING OUT: The player who gets rid of the last card in hand, by discarding or hitting, is said to go out. This player wins the hand. The winner of the hand, and any other players who also complete their Phase, will advance to the next Phase for the next hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If two or more players complete Phase 10 in the same hand, then the player with the fewest total points is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.natlassoc.org/fun/games/phase10/phase10r.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.natlassoc.org/fun/games/phase10/phase10r.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the terminology is a little confusing, because the rules say that whoever goes out &quot;wins the hand&quot;, but &quot;winning&quot; the hand doesn't really mean anything other than getting 0 points for that hand. Anyone who completed the Phase moves on; and &quot;winning&quot; Phase 10 doesn't mean that you will win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T15:53:41.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17860" CreationDate="2014-06-10T15:58:03.920" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/148931/coup-reformation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Coup: Reformation&lt;/a&gt; is the expansion for more than 6 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains 15 cards; 3 of each rather than 2 of each. I think the rules from the game say how many cards to use for how many players, since someone quotes it as 25(5 of each) cards for 9-10 players. Since you use 15(3 of each) cards for 6 players, I'm guessing you add 1 of each card for 7-8, 2 for 9-10 and 3 for 11-12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for reformation are slightly different, as it has 2 factions where you can take an action and 1 money to the almshouse to change your faction; 2 money to change someone else's faction; or take all the money from the almshouse if you do NOT have a Duke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are only allowed to attack people of the opposite faction to you, unless everyone is the same faction where you can attack whoever you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T17:09:01.777" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T17:09:01.777" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17861" CreationDate="2014-06-10T16:13:31.693" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTGCommander.net&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; authoritative reference for all things commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Says who?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a little history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/7933_Ask_the_Judge_08202004Feature_Friday.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, Adam Staley created the format. He shared it with Sheldon Menery, a retired Level 5 Judge, who popularized the format by inviting judges at tournaments to play. Over the next few years, the format spread from judges to the common player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gavin Duggan, who is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/article/27732_Other-Peoples-Decks-Gavin-Duggans-Mayael-The-Anima.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;member of the Commander Rules committee along with Sheldon Menery&lt;/a&gt;, is also the creator of MTGCommander.net. When the rules committee bans a card, it shows up there first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wizards of the Coast catches on&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But they wanted to avoid using the trademarked &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highlander_%28film%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Highlander&lt;/a&gt;&quot; in the name (which could lead to a lawsuit), and so Wizards changed the name to &quot;Commander&quot;. Wizards maintains the Gatherer and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/TCG/Resources.aspx?x=magic/rules/100cardsingleton-commander&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;their own banned list&lt;/a&gt; for MTGO. &lt;em&gt;Their list links to MTGCommander in the opening paragraph!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdX5x.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;We like rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that wasn't convincing enough, there &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; actually a rule that acknowledges MTGCommander as the source of &quot;additional resources&quot; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.1.&lt;/strong&gt; In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander. &lt;strong&gt;The Commander variant was created and popularized by fans; an independent rules committee maintains additional resources at MTGCommander.net.&lt;/strong&gt; The Commander variant uses all the normal rules for a Magic game, with the following additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-10T17:08:24.597" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T17:08:24.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17871" CreationDate="2014-06-10T21:06:02.230" Score="1" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a used copy of Munchkin (bundled with several expansions) to play with my family while we are on summer vacation. While reading the instructions of the game to the other players, we noticed that someone scratched out this rule...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Decide who goes first by rolling the dice and arguing about the&#xA;  results and the meaning of this sentence and whether the fact that a&#xA;  word seems to be missing any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and, scribbled above it in pencil, was...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player with the stinkiest armpits goes first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My family (especially the kids) decided that they &lt;em&gt;love&lt;/em&gt; this rule, but we have no idea how to objectively determine who has the smelliest armpits. How can we determine this in a fair, preferably objective, way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T21:39:59.127" Title="Player with the Stinkiest Armpits" Tags="|house-rules|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-06-15T09:04:34.730" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17870" CreationDate="2014-06-10T21:39:59.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most truly objective method may be to conduct a scientifically rigorous poll. You will need a random sampling of people from the world, we'll limit it to native English speakers to ensure that translation doesn't become a concern. Each will need to be kidnapped to prevent self-selection bias, and deprived of both sight and sound so that other factors don't influence the decision. A researcher not playing, and unaware of the order in which the respondents will present their pits will need to explain the experiment, then leave the room. At this point, each armpit should be passed over the respondent's nose at a set speed and distance in a randomized order, after which the researcher should reenter and ask the respondent to rate the stench.&#xA;After a representative sample, probably several thousand people, you should be able to say with conviction whose armpits are the stinkiest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason the illegality of the prior method concerns you, a less rigorous result could be obtained by passing armpits in front of a single blindfolded volunteer impartial judge, or by a consensus of blindfolded players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5045" LastActivityDate="2014-06-10T21:39:59.127" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17873" CreationDate="2014-06-11T00:57:30.083" Score="3" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an extension of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4475/how-is-test-of-faith-resolved&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;, how is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370554&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Test of Faith&lt;/a&gt; resolved in a situation where this instant is cast on one of multiple blocking creatures assigned to a single attacking creature? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A = 8/8 attacker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B1 = 1/1 blocker assigned to A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B2 = another 1/1 blocker assigned to A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, let us assume that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the defending player declares both B1 and B2 to be blockers for A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B1 is the first blocker to receive damage from A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Test of Faith is cast on B1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the defending player allowed to wait until the attacking player&#xA;has declared the order in which damage is assigned before playing&#xA;Test of Faith? (i.e. attacking player declares damage to be dealt to&#xA;B1 followed by B2 before defending player casts spell) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that A&#xA;would normally deal 1 damage to B1 with remaining damage to B2 (in&#xA;the absence of any instants or abilities), does Test of Faith&#xA;prevent 1 or 3 damage in this scenario? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that A has sufficient&#xA;power to destroy both B1 and B2 even with the damage prevention and&#xA;+1/+1 counters provided by Test of Faith, does A end up dealing more damage than initially&#xA;planned to finish off B1? Or does B1 survive?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7800" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T19:48:31.253" Title="How is Test of Faith resolved with multiple blockers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17872" CreationDate="2014-06-11T01:27:05.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short version: yes, the defending player can cast Test of Faith after damage assignment order is chosen, and yes, the attacking player can send enough damage at B1 to kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is fairly easy to answer once you know how the declare blockers and combat damage steps work. (Remember the steps of combat: beginning of combat, declare attackers, declare blockers, combat damage, and end of combat.) Focusing on the relevant bits, we have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;declare blockers&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the defending player assigns blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the attacking player announces damage assignment order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the active player gets priority (your chance to cast spells or activate abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the active player announces how combat damage from attacking creatures will be assigned&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the blocking creatures assign their damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;damage is actually dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is pretty much all in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;basic rules&lt;/a&gt;, but if you want gory details, see 509 and 510 in the comprehensive rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to (1) is easy. Yes, the defending player can wait until after the order is assigned to cast Test of Faith - in fact they pretty much have to, unless they want to cast it before they even declare blockers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to (2) and (3) depends on what the attacking player decides, but if they're smart, they can kill both B1 and B2. They've already chosen the &lt;em&gt;order&lt;/em&gt; back in the declare blockers step, but now they can choose the amount to assign to each creature in order. They have to assign &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; lethal damage* (1 damage, since it's a 1/1) to B1 before going on to B2, but otherwise they can split it however they want - 8 and 0, 7 and 1, and so on. Presumably they'll decide to assign 7 to B1 and 1 to B2, so that B1 ends up as a 4/4 with 4 damage marked on it and dies, and B2 takes 1 damage and dies as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this isn't really terribly specific to Test of Faith. All that really matters is that you can deal any amount of damage to B1, as long as it's at least 1 (lethal damage). No matter what the weird effect is (prevention, redirection, +1/+1 counters appearing...) you choose the amount of damage and can send the necessary amount at it, so you'll never get weird cases where B1 somehow survives even though you could've killed it, or where the damage assignment amounts somehow change outside your control. You do have to consciously make the right decision (deal 7 damage even though 1 is &quot;lethal&quot;), but beyond that, nothing really fancy happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* Lethal damage doesn't have to take into account abilities and effects that might change the amount of damage that ends up being dealt, so Test of Faith doesn't matter here - if they wanted B1 to live for some reason, they could deal it just 1 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T18:41:39.460" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T18:41:39.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17883" CreationDate="2014-06-11T04:42:08.283" Score="4" ViewCount="1820" Body="&lt;p&gt;The navigator's action is moving another player 2 tiles for 1 action - it does not specify once per turn. Does this mean he could move another player 3 or 4 tiles for 2 action points, or is there a rule/clarification about this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7803" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T20:18:29.607" Title="Forbidden Island: Can the navigator move another player 4 tiles for 2 actions / 6 for 3?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2014-06-11T05:51:30.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I interpreted the rules that way, since other player abilities like the Explorer are not limited that way. When we play, a navigator can use her ability multiple times per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1007" LastEditorUserId="1007" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T06:06:54.680" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T06:06:54.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17877" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17894" CreationDate="2014-06-11T06:01:01.067" Score="3" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the beginner rules, one is encouraged to play without a Traitor. Under these conditions, does it make sense to wait until the knights have 12 swords in Camelot before determining the winner? It seems that with 7 white swords earned, the race to finish enough quests to end the game is anti-climactic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only situation I can think of where Evil could still win without a Traitor would be if the Holy Grail quest were lost when the sword count is 7 white to 4 black. Those 3 black swords would result in a 7:7 tie and spell defeat. In our group, the Grail gets attention early and is completed quickly, so this is unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please help me understand this purpose of this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1007" LastEditorUserId="1007" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T06:08:26.583" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T12:57:13.713" Title="Purpose of needing 12 swords in Camelot to trigger end of game with no Traitor" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16843" CreationDate="2014-06-11T12:38:11.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Choosing a starter set:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Buy the starter set that most appeals to you. If you love Marvel, then look for something in that line. The latest starters will be the most up-to-date rules wise, but that shouldn't be the main thing driving your decision. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I love the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0040QE632&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fantastic Four starter set&lt;/a&gt;: two great teams that form a perfect collection on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finding A Community:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3439/heroclix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boardgamegeek.com&lt;/a&gt; is a great place to start. Check out the forums. I also recommend Google Plus, starting with a search for Heroclix. Lastly, search for Heroclix bloggers and ask them where they play. People who are active on the web have always been the most helpful to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to play HeroClix online. Look at hco.heroclix.com (although they might not be accepting new players) and www.vassalengine.org.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Getting Figures:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;First focus on a starter set and a play group, then on getting figures. Players may have extra figures that they'll be happy to pass on if you're serious about getting started, and they can recommend good places to buy figures. Most of my collection has come from online contacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Learning the Rules:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;YouTube. Again, people who are blogging or vlogging are a very helpful resource. Also, download the rules from the WizKids website.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7807" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T12:38:11.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5796" CreationDate="2014-06-11T13:45:12.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Battleships as a teaching tool in my English Foreign Language classes, so I've developed a simple way to teach the game to my teenage students. I'd recommend breaking the game into steps, something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a real world example. &quot;This is a game about ships at sea. They can't see each other, so they use maps to try and hit their target.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Explain the different ships. I wouldn't go into too much detail at first. &quot;You each have one long ships that takes five spaces...&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Help them set up the board. If you're playing on graph paper, draw out an example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Show them an example round. This should include missing, hitting and sinking of ships.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let them play. Watch the game and see if they understand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By playing they will learn to develop their own strategies, which will make it more enjoyable to them. Don't teach them strategies, because they'll be less likely to want to play more often. They'll be watching you, so that will inform their decisions in future games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7807" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T13:45:12.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17875" CreationDate="2014-06-11T20:18:29.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Navigator may move other players up to 2 adjacent tiles per action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it states it's &lt;em&gt;per action&lt;/em&gt; so yes you could repeat that same action 3 times. It's a very useful ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2014-06-11T20:18:29.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17863" CreationDate="2014-06-11T22:46:00.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The winning strategy for such a small Hex board is shown in &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20150907044307/http://www.mazeworks.com/hex7/about/basics2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this basic strategy guide&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like tic-tac-toe, on a 4x4 board white will always win by opening on the main diagonal, because for every counter that black can make, there is another way for white to force the win. Once white can form a &quot;two-bridge&quot; by placing the second piece in a non-adjacent space but with two empty neighbouring hexes in common, there is no way to block white from completing the chain, since there are two empty adjacent hexes to complete the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example position after white's second turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYPt6.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TYPt6.gif&quot; alt=&quot;4x4 Hex Grid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you could see by playing out all the scenarios for white along the main diagonal, it's impossible to stop white from forming a &quot;two-bridge&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If white plays a1, there are two-bridges at b3 and c2. Black can't stop both.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If white plays b2, there are two-bridge plays at a3, c4, d3, and c1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If white plays c3, it's a mirror position of b2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If white plays d4, it's a mirror position of a1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black can't win because there is always a way for white to orphan a black piece on this size board, making it impossible for black to form a &quot;two-bridge&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not that familiar with the game but my understanding is that the strategy only really becomes deep and interesting once the board gets to a 10x10 size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T00:37:52.743" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:37:52.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T22:54:00.177" Score="2" ViewCount="37699" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are dealt 6 cards and find you have four 5s plus two other cards. You put those two non-scorers in the crib. You hope for a ten on the turn-up, but it's an off card that doesn't help anything. How do you score the 5s?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7812" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T07:18:47.357" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T07:18:47.357" Title="How do you score 5,5,5,5 in-hand with a non-ten, non-face card turned up?" Tags="|cribbage|scoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-11T19:26:23.867" Score="4" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a red/green deck. Can I use my red spells on my green creatures, and my green spells on my red creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am fairly new to MtG so I am sorry if this appears as a sort of nooby question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Jimmy Jimmeh" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-11T23:30:36.910" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T00:04:44.917" Title="Can a red spell (Sorcery, Instant, etc) affect a green creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17886" CreationDate="2014-06-11T23:37:04.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. If a spell targets a creature, unless it says otherwise, it can target any creature of any colour. The spell's own colour is simply a non-issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that if you &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; have to cast red spells on red creatures, or black spells on black creatures, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoom%20Blade%5d&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; would be completely useless, being a black spell which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy target nonblack creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That creature can't have &lt;em&gt;Hexproof&lt;/em&gt;, unless it's your own creature. Hexproof means your opponents cannot target that creature with their spells or abilities, but you can do so just fine. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBenthic%20Giant%5d&quot;&gt;Benthic Giant&lt;/a&gt; is an example of one such creature. If you control a Benthic Giant, you can target it with your own &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAuger%20Spree%5d&quot;&gt;Auger Spree&lt;/a&gt; to make it temporarily an 8/1 creature, but your opponent can't cast their own Augur Spree on your Benthic Giant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature can't have &lt;em&gt;Shroud&lt;/em&gt;. An example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAlgae%20Gharial%5d&quot;&gt;Algae Gharial&lt;/a&gt;. It's an old mechanic which says the creature simply can't be targeted by spells or abilities, &lt;em&gt;full stop&lt;/em&gt; - not even your own. You won't run into &lt;em&gt;Shroud&lt;/em&gt; in newer cards, because it's been replaced by &lt;em&gt;Hexproof&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature can't have &lt;em&gt;Protection&lt;/em&gt; from your spell's colour. A creature with protection from a colour cannot be targeted by spells of that colour. (Protection also does &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/6915/5573&quot;&gt;some other good things&lt;/a&gt; for you.) For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHand%20of%20Honor%5d&quot;&gt;Hand of Honor&lt;/a&gt; has &lt;em&gt;protection from black&lt;/em&gt;, which means it can't be targeted by Doom Blade.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Protection can do more than simply pick a colour. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPetrified%20Wood-Kin%5d&quot;&gt;Petrified Wood-Kin&lt;/a&gt;, for example, can't be targeted by instants, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAzorius%20First-Wing%5d&quot;&gt;Azorius First-Wing&lt;/a&gt; can't be enchanted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature must otherwise not say it can't be targeted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And naturally, the creature has to be a valid target for the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same principles apply to all spells. You can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFade%20into%20Antiquity%5d&quot;&gt;Fade into Antiquity&lt;/a&gt; on non-green enchantments, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T00:04:44.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17885" CreationDate="2014-06-12T00:48:26.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have 6 pairs (CD,CH,CS,DH,DS,HS), and 4 ways to make 15 (CDH,CDS,CHS,HDS), for a total of 20 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7709" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T00:48:26.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T06:36:12.860" Score="1" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Celestial%20Flare&quot;&gt;Celestial Flare&lt;/a&gt; is an instant that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target player sacrifices an attacking or blocking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the instant is played on on the attacking player after the defending player has declared blockers, and the attacker sacrices a creature that was being blocked. What happens to the creature that was blocking the now-sacrificed attacking creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the blocker now block nothing, or is it assigned to a different attacker, or are blockers redeclared?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was done in a multiplayer game by a third party who was not involved in the blocking or attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7764" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T15:18:46.943" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T15:19:07.467" Title="Celestial Flare Question declaring blockers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17890" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-12T06:41:30.900" Score="4" ViewCount="7483" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do counters added to a god with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleam%20of%20Battle&quot;&gt;Gleam of Battle&lt;/a&gt; disappear when the god stops being a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Purphoros%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Forge&quot;&gt;Purphoros, God of the Forge&lt;/a&gt; is a creature (due to devotion reaching the required amount) and Gleam of Battle is also on the battlefield. Then Purphoros attacks and gets a +1/+1 counter for attacking. If my devotion to red then drops below 5 and Purphoros is no longer a creature, would the +1/+1 counters stay on him or will he reset to his original power/toughness level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is when he becomes an enchantment he loses it due to the fact that he is no longer a creature and that his power and toughness are technically not there and so he gets remade into being a creature only when devotion is high enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7764" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T11:56:39.847" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T18:33:09.157" Title="Do gods keep their +1/+1 counters if they stop being creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-06-12T18:49:14.200" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17889" CreationDate="2014-06-12T06:50:38.050" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blocking creature now blocks nothing. You cannot have it block another creature and blockers cannot be assigned again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T15:19:07.467" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T15:19:07.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17890" CreationDate="2014-06-12T06:53:13.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Counters are not removed from a permanent even when they stop being relevant to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take the example of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRaging%20Ravine%5d&quot;&gt;Raging Ravine&lt;/a&gt; : it says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2RG: Until end of turn, Raging Ravine becomes a 3/3 red and green&#xA;  Elemental creature with &quot;Whenever this creature attacks, put a +1/+1&#xA;  counter on it.&quot; It's still a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On gatherer we can see the ruling :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any +1/+1 counters put on Raging Ravine remain on it even after it&#xA;  stops being a creature. They'll have no effect until it becomes a&#xA;  creature again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related : &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/16662/can-lands-have-1-1-counters/&quot;&gt;Can non-creature permanents have +1/+1 counters?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T18:33:09.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17877" CreationDate="2014-06-12T08:41:19.533" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remember the catapults&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are 12 of them at any time you lose the game. So even with no traitor and 8 white swords, if you are too tight and lose the invasion quests (or simply draw the wrong black cards), you may lose because of catapults before completing the 12 swords on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7815" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T12:57:13.713" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T12:57:13.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2014-06-12T13:12:48.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of English Foreign Language (ESL) teachers here in Japan have had success with &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001OH9EDW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dixit&lt;/a&gt;. I've never used that, but I have had success using Battleships, Go Fish, my own board-game creations and, to some extent, Werewolf (aka: Mafia). I teach high school, from low to medium ability (ie: some students get confused if I say &quot;hello&quot; instead of &quot;good morning&quot;. Most struggle with tenses and plurals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, you need to assess your wife's English level, because that will have a big impact on what you can use. For vocab, a game like Memory, but using words, might work really well. If she can, you could play Scrabble. I'd suggest letting her use a dictionary and maybe a few more house rules to balance things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd really encourage you to look for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://elt.oup.com/teachersclub/subjects/gradedreading/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;graded readers&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. They aren't board-games, but easy to read books that repeat vocab and build on it intuitively. They work very well. You may even find ways to incorporate the readers into your gaming, or find people who are building games around the readers. The readers, like games, work because they are fun and should not be too challenging. This is an important principle to keep in mind when you choose a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7807" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T13:12:48.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17889" CreationDate="2014-06-12T13:44:26.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming it was only blocking one creature, it no longer has any creature to which to assign and deal damage, so it doesn't do either of those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Combat phase progresses as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 509] Declare Blockers Step:&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 509.1] Defender declares blockers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 509.2] Attacker declares damage assignment order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 509.3] Defender declares damage assignment order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 509.5] Players get priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 510] Combat Damage Step:&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 510.1] Attacker assigns combat damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 510.2] Damage is dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[CR 510.4] Players get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Celestial Flare is cast and resolves in 2.4. The next thing that happens is the Combat Damage Step. The blocking creature has nothing to which to assign damage, so it won't, so it won't deal any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1d A blocking creature assigns combat damage to the creatures it’s blocking. If it isn’t currently blocking any creatures (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T13:55:14.260" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T13:55:14.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17890" CreationDate="2014-06-12T16:46:22.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They absolutely stay. According to the comprehensive rules, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;205.1a Some effects set an object's card type. In such cases, the new card type(s) replaces any existing card types. &lt;strong&gt;Counters&lt;/strong&gt;, effects, and damage marked on the object remain with it, &lt;strong&gt;even if they are meaningless to the new card type&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T16:46:22.383" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17904" CreationDate="2014-06-12T21:35:31.567" Score="6" ViewCount="6370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I'm missing something here.  I thought that land cards that have two colors at the bottom mean that they can be used as land for either of the colors. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for example Scalding Tarn: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9kii.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Scalding Tarn&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like it's already a combo island/mountain card. So why would I want to use the activated ability which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pay 1 life, Sacrifice Scalding Tarn: Search your library for an Island or Mountain card and put it onto the battlefield. Then shuffle your library&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T22:27:40.513" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T23:56:21.177" Title="Why would I want to use the activated ability of &quot;Scalding Tarn&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2014-06-12T21:39:21.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Text box coloration means diddly squat in Magic.  Does the text box explicitly list any mana-generating abilities?  No.  Does the type line (between the art and the text box) explicitly list any of the five basic land types — Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest — which automatically grant a mana ability to the card they're on?  No.  Thus, the card cannot generate mana on its own, and its &lt;em&gt;only ability&lt;/em&gt; is the one printed in the text box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text box colors are &lt;em&gt;determined by&lt;/em&gt; various aspects of the card, but &lt;em&gt;they do not determine anything&lt;/em&gt; — the actual properties of a card are determined by the text and symbols printed on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T21:39:21.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2014-06-12T21:41:08.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scalding%20Tarn&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt; is a Land, but it is not a &lt;em&gt;Basic&lt;/em&gt; Land. Although colored half blue and half red, it does not actually have the ability to tap for mana. Only lands with a Basic Land Type have the inherent ability to tap for mana, regardless of whether the ability is printed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.6.&lt;/strong&gt; The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the  words “basic land type,” it’s referring&#xA;to one of these subtypes. A land with a basic land type has  the&#xA;intrinsic ability “{T}: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,” even if&#xA;the text box doesn’t  actually contain that text or the object has no&#xA;text box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonbasic lands, such as Scalding Tarn, only have the abilities that are printed directly on the card. Therefore, to get any mana out of your Scalding Tarn, you have to use its ability, sacrifice it, and find an actual Island* or Mountain*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*Note that cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Watery%20Grave&quot;&gt;Watery Grave&lt;/a&gt; are not named Island, but they have Island as a subtype, and can therefore be retrieved with a Scalding Tarn.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2014-06-12T23:32:48.267" LastActivityDate="2014-06-12T23:32:48.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17902" CreationDate="2014-06-12T21:41:08.800" Score="2" ViewCount="2386" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not clear to me from reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/157b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Double-Faced Card Rules&lt;/a&gt;: do transformed creatures revert back to their original type automatically? And if so, when? End of your turn or beginning of your next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:26:14.470" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:26:14.470" Title="When do transformed creatures go back to their original forms?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17901" CreationDate="2014-06-12T21:45:39.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Double-faced cards only transform when they (or another effect like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMoonmist%5d&quot;&gt;Moonmist&lt;/a&gt;) explicitly say they transform.  For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlvenwald%20Mystics%5d&quot;&gt;Ulvenwald Mystics&lt;/a&gt; says on its front side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each upkeep, if no spells were cast last turn, transform Ulvenwald Mystics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the back side (Ulvenwald Primordials) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{G}: Regenerate Ulvenwald Primordials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each upkeep, if a player cast two or more spells last turn, transform Ulvenwald Primordials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, the conditions for transforming in both directions are printed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLoyal%20Cathar%5d&quot;&gt;Loyal Cathar&lt;/a&gt;, on the other hand, has a transformation-causing ability on its front side but no transformation-related abilities on its back, so once it transforms, it stays that way until it leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-02-16T21:16:15.017" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17907" CreationDate="2014-06-12T22:19:58.477" Score="4" ViewCount="3821" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Citadels&lt;/em&gt;, if the Warlord destroys a player's eighth district, assuming no other players have eight districts, does the game still end at the end of the round?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, does that player still get the &quot;first to build eight districts&quot; bonus points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if on the last round, Alfred finishes eight districts, Betty finishes eight districts, and Charlie Warlords one of Alfred's districts.  Who gets what bonus points here?  Alfred was the first to build eight districts, but does not &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; eight districts at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:21:17.580" Title="If the Warlord destroys a player's eighth district, does the game still end?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2014-06-12T23:21:14.143" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, as the other answers have indicated, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=scalding%20tarn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt; does not produce any mana, it just lets you search for another land that can. The colors on this card have &lt;strong&gt;absolutely nothing&lt;/strong&gt; to do with its ability. The blue and red are just there as a visual reminder that the ability lets you search for an Island or a Mountain. The card could be orange, or pink, but the ability would still be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, down to the real question: &lt;em&gt;why is its activated ability useful, especially since you have to pay a life?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few benefits/uses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Flexibility&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=scalding%20tarn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt; in your hand could turn into, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=volcanic%20island&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Volcanic Island&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=plateau&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Plateau&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=underground%20sea&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Underground Sea&lt;/a&gt;, or just a basic Mountain or Island. You have the flexibility to search for whatever land you may need to cast stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say in your opening hand you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=scalding%20tarn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=lightning%20bolt&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=spell%20snare&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt;. Play the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=scalding%20tarn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt;, then you can wait to &quot;crack&quot; the fetchland until the last second. If your opponent plays a creature, grab a Mountain to cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=lightning%20bolt&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;; if they play a 2cmc spell, grab an Island to cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=spell%20snare&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt; instead. Flexibility!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;strong&gt;Synergy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shuffling&lt;/em&gt;: Let's say you play a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=brainstorm&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt;, and don't really like the cards you put back on top (maybe they're all lands that you don't need). Crack &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=scalding%20tarn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt; to shuffle your library! Better to shuffle hoping that you'll get something worth drawing than to sit there for a few turns knowing you'll draw crap that doesn't help you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Landfall&lt;/em&gt;: Let's say you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=steppe%20lynx&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Steppe Lynx&lt;/a&gt; in play. Then play your &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=scalding%20tarn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt;, immediately crack it, and grab some land you need. Two lands entered play, so now &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=steppe%20lynx&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Steppe Lynx&lt;/a&gt; is a 4/5 monster (for this turn) that only cost you 1 mana and 1 life. Totally worth it. Landfall + Fetchlands can give you some bonkers plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Graveyard&lt;/em&gt;: By cracking the fetch, you put a card in the graveyard, which can benefit things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=Grim%20Lavamancer&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Grim Lavamancer&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/mma/en/166.html&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=deathrite%20shaman&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;strong&gt;Filtering/Thinning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time you search your library for a land, you reduce the chance of drawing a land the next time you draw. This is nice later in the game, when lands are typically dead draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Statistically, the &quot;thinning&quot; effect of a single fetchland doesn't make a big difference, but multiple copies can. If you play fetchlands and your opponent doesn't, you'll have a slight edge in terms of drawing potential threats (instead of lands), but at the cost of some of your life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=necropotence&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt; taught us long ago that life is just another resource; using your resources wisely will win you games. That being said, sometimes the life loss associated with fetchlands may not be wise. Some tournament-worthy decks run 6-8 fetchlands, others run 1-2, some run none at all. It depends entirely upon your deck versus the metagame you've chosen to play in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMHO, fetchlands are a much better choice when used for flexibility and/or synergy than for just deck thinning alone, but that's just me. You get the deck thinning automatically, but the flexibility/synergy comes with intelligent deck construction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anyway, if you don't want those Scalding Tarns, I'll take them. Aside from being good cards for all of the reasons I've just described, those suckers are worth something like $70 each right now!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7820" LastEditorUserId="7820" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T16:32:51.467" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T16:32:51.467" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2014-06-12T23:22:29.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I thought that land cards that have two colors at the bottom mean that they can be used as land for either of the colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the color shown on a card means nothing. It's just a visual reminder of some color(s) the card is associated with in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only lands that can tap for mana without it being written on them are those which have one or more of the five basic land subtypes: Island, Mountain, Plains, Swamp, or Forest. You need to look for those on the type line, which is in the middle of the card, where it says &quot;Land&quot; - that will be followed by a dash and then the card's subtypes. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/x85wD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Steam Vents&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Steam Vents has &quot;Island Mountain&quot; on the type line, you could tap it for either blue or red mana, even if it doesn't have abilities to do that in its text box. Note that the text at the top of its textbox &amp;mdash; &lt;em&gt;({T}: Add {U} or {R} to your mana pool.)&lt;/em&gt; &amp;mdash; is not an ability in itself, but just &lt;em&gt;reminder text&lt;/em&gt; about the abilities that the &quot;Island&quot; and &quot;Mountain&quot; subtypes give it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T02:24:50.307" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T02:24:50.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2014-06-13T00:56:32.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played in threes rather than four, if the two outer cards were same value or suit then the middle card is discarded. If all three are same suit or value, all three are discarded. Continue to discard as long as is nessessary before drawing another card from the bottom.  Never knew the name, but its my favorite game to play alone. Have actually won several times but have been playing it since 8th grade- i'm 54 now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7821" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T00:56:32.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17903" CreationDate="2014-06-13T01:56:19.947" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the Warlord is not allowed to destroy a building if that person already has 8 built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7709" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T01:56:19.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17910" CreationDate="2014-06-13T08:29:07.523" Score="2" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to Magic so apologies in advance if this is an obvious question: Are expansion sets designed to accommodate any/all deck archetypes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, my current play style gravitates towards red aggro and I'd like to continue building decks that align with that strategy.  I'm wondering if the latest set, &lt;em&gt;Journey Into Nyx&lt;/em&gt;, is slanted towards other play styles. How can I tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T08:31:08.007" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:19:52.850" Title="Are expansion sets in magic designed for use with specific deck archetypes?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17903" CreationDate="2014-06-13T09:07:38.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Warlord is not authorised to attack a finished city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, the rules says that we finish the turn and end the game once someone reach 8 buildings (as opposed to &quot;game is finished if, at the end of turn, someone has 8 buildings&quot;), so if you use this card (I don't remember the name) who can be sacrificed to destroy a building, my thought is that the game still end at the end of the turn. Same thing if you use the card that reduce the number of buildings to finish by one (note that a 7-building city will be considered as finished and the warlord can't attack it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bonus is granted to the first one, so in your example (if we use the card to destroy a building, not the warlord) Alfred got the bonus for having finished first, he doesn't get the 5-color bonus if he had it before his 8th building was destroyed and not after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7815" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:07:38.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17908" CreationDate="2014-06-13T09:19:52.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most sets of Magic feature a certain kind of game mechanics, and favor some archetypes more than other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance the previous set (Return to Ravnica, Gatecrash, Maze I don't remember) favored multicolored decks, even 3 colored ones, featured lots of multicolored creatures, whereas the beginning of the current set (Theros, Born of the gods) favored mono colored decks. Some capacity are absent from different sets, and some sets really favor some kind of build (eg Theros set gave the opportunity to create really powerful blue aggro, Innistrad set allowed very efficient graveyard oriented decks...). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, some archetypes are always valids, and even if some blocks don't favor them, you will still find useful cards and maybe the next set will favor it again. Some archetypes are also more common and nearly always efficient, &quot;red deck wins&quot;, a mono red archetype is among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't care about having a deck in the current set, you shouldn't mind about this, if you seek competitive T2 game (last two blocks), you will change deck every block to have the more favored (and fun) archetype. An easy way to see toward what a set is slanted is to have a look at the top 10 tournament decks, you can also guess that by yourself after gaining some more experience by just looking at the cards featured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To finish, if you play drafts (which I advise you, it's really funny), the favored archetypes will be different from built decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7815" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T09:19:52.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17911" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17912" CreationDate="2014-06-13T18:52:20.353" Score="17" ViewCount="26720" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kulrath%20Knight&quot;&gt;Kulrath Knight&lt;/a&gt;. I control a 4/4 creature (with a -1/-1 counter on it, due to an earlier cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Black%20Sun%27s%20Zenith&quot;&gt;Black Sun&amp;#39;s Zenith&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use an ability to put a +1/+1 counter on my 4/4 creature, will the +1/+1 counter and the -1/-1 counter cancel each other out, or will I just have a creature with both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words: Will my creature be able to block and attack or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't believe the rules are 100% clear on that?! (rule 704,5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T19:04:26.930" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T19:20:08.760" Title="Does a +1/+1 counter remove a -1/-1 counter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2014-06-13T18:59:37.827" Score="20" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.3. If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are removed from it as a state-based action, where N is the smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters on it. See rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both counters will be removed as a state-based action (N=1). Your creature will be able to block and attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T18:59:37.827" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17911" CreationDate="2014-06-13T18:59:45.243" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the text of the relevant rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5r If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are removed from it, where N is the smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's supposed to be pretty clear: if your creature has one +1/+1 counter and one -1/-1 counter on it, you remove one +1/+1 counter and one -1/-1 counter from it, leaving it with no counters. (One is the smaller of the numbers one and one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then in the specific case of Kulrath Knight, yes, your creature will be able to attack and block, since it will have no counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find the &quot;N&quot; part of the rule confusing, you can really just think of it as &quot;they cancel.&quot; If there are five +1/+1 counters and three -1/-1 counters, N is three (the smaller of five and three) and so you remove three of each. If there are one of each, then N is one (the smaller of one and one), and so you remove one of each. In every case, you're canceling out &quot;as many as possible&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-06-13T19:20:08.760" LastActivityDate="2014-06-13T19:20:08.760" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17915" CreationDate="2014-06-14T05:47:27.210" Score="4" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Radiant%20Archangel&quot;&gt;Radiant Archangel&lt;/a&gt; in a deck full of flying creatures. It is a 3/3 flyer with +1/+1 for each other flying creature in play. During a game, I had seven other flying creatures, making it a 10/10. My opponent cast a spell (and I'm sorry I don't recall the spell) that did 6 damage to all my creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He contends that this kills Radiant Archangel as well because the static bonus of +1/+1 for all the flying creatures in play goes away once they are dead and the damage sticks around until the end of turn. Thus, after the spell resolves, the other flying creatures are gone so Radiant Archangel is only a 3/3, and it has 6 damage so it's dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I contend that when the damage was dealt, it was a 10/10 and survived the attack, and that the 6 damage can come out of the +1/+1 bonuses that the other flying creatures provided and that it lost once they were gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody have any official rulings on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7833" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-14T06:39:18.090" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T06:39:18.090" Title="When do static bonuses go away relative to damage dealt?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17914" CreationDate="2014-06-14T06:26:38.350" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is correct. By CR 119.6, and/or 302.7, Radiant has six damage marked on it for the rest of the turn. The damage doesn't come out of the toughness, buffed or otherwise. What happens in order is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;His spell does 6 damage to your creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions are checked. Your other seven creatures now have 6 damage, and are destroyed for having damage greater than or equal to their toughness. Radiant is not destroyed yet, having toughness greater than damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since state-based actions destroyed creatures, they are re-checked with the new gamestate. The other flyers are no longer buffing Radiant, so she is now a 3/3 creature, still with 6 damage marked on it, so Radiant is destroyed at this point.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;119.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Damage marked on a creature remains until the cleanup step, even if that permanent stops being a creature. If the total damage marked on a creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed as a state-based action (see rule 704). All damage marked on a permanent is removed when it regenerates (see rule 701.11, &amp;quot;Regenerate&amp;quot;) and during the cleanup step (see rule 514.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;302.7.&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt to a creature by a source with neither wither nor infect is marked on that creature (see rule 119.3). If the total damage marked on that creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed as a state-based action (see rule 704). All damage marked on a creature is removed when it regenerates (see rule 701.12, &amp;quot;Regenerate&amp;quot;) and during the cleanup step (see rule 514.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T06:26:38.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17918" CreationDate="2014-06-14T18:32:27.743" Score="1" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I kill my opponents 4/4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primordial%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Primordial Hydra&lt;/a&gt;, will I be able to use my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cemetery%20Puca&quot;&gt;Cemetery Puca&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability on the Hydra, and have it become a 4/4 Primordial Hydra, or will my Puca die because the Hydra is considered a 0/0 creature when it is put into the graveyard, due to the X part of its mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-14T23:54:05.053" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T23:54:05.053" Title="Could Cemetery Puca copy a Primordial Hydra?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-14T19:37:34.010" Score="6" ViewCount="29166" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Sorry, if you are 7 spaces away from your Home and you draw a 12 (and your other pawns are in Start or Home), do you have to move past your safety zone like you're going around the board a second time or do you forfeit your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7837" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:47:53.690" LastActivityDate="2018-06-21T05:03:40.057" Title="In Sorry!, do you have to move past safety zone or forfeit turn?" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17916" CreationDate="2014-06-14T21:57:50.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your initial thought is correct. It will get copied, become a 0/0 creature, and die (unless you have a way to save it through a static effect, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anthem&quot;&gt;Anthem&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caged%20Sun&quot;&gt;Caged Sun&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.2. When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object's characteristics ... The &amp;quot;copiable values&amp;quot; are the values derived from the text &lt;strong&gt;printed on the object&lt;/strong&gt; (that text being name, mana cost, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by &amp;quot;as . . . enters the battlefield&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;as . . . is turned face up&amp;quot; abilities that set characteristics, and by abilities that caused the object to be face down. Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and &lt;strong&gt;counters are not copied&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your Puca does have the &amp;quot;~ enters the battlefield with X counters&amp;quot;, but that's irrelevant because it's not entering the battlefield anyway. The object already exists, it's just getting a facelift. (The X would be 0, but that doesn't matter because it isn't triggering.) As for the existing counters, the final clause states that counters are not copied. So you basically get to kill your own Puca by doing this. Which I suppose isn't so bad if you have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Artist&quot;&gt;Blood Artist&lt;/a&gt; or something. =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T21:57:50.003" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2014-06-14T22:57:36.640" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game map does NOT emulate correctly the historical distances!&#xA;Therefore it is far more feasible in the game to bring allied troops/equipment through Norway to Russia than it would in reality. &#xA;E.g. unlike in the boardgame historically allied operations in Norway had no land-based fighter support coverage.&#xA;The germans capitalized on it ensuring their Norway based fighter coverage would provide the required coverage for its surface fleet... among them the Tirpitz... which was operational past D-Day landings.&#xA;Notice the Germans didn't try to bring their surface fleet to the english channel to challenge D-Day operations. They knew far too well Allies possessed total air superiority, if not supremacy, there...&#xA;Historically the Allies still tried(as &quot;correct&quot; strategy, like in the boardgame, dictates) to link up with Russia through artic convoys though...at times Germany successfully disrupted them too...see convoy PQ17. And there was a flow of supplies arriving to Russia trough Persia too.&#xA;Board game distances versus real distances...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7838" LastEditorUserId="7838" LastEditDate="2014-06-14T23:07:49.400" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T23:07:49.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14219" CreationDate="2014-06-14T23:27:40.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have seen balanced games from an economical perspective where even though the Axis could  have a slight edge they still lost because Allies were successful in splitting up the Axis forces through Karelia.&#xA;I think I have won games as Axis where my Japan empire was below 57 NPL and yet with Heavy bombers and possibly long-range or Industrial technology I was able to eventually dominate the Allies. Of course I think the games weren't mistake free so...&#xA;By the way whenever possible I scrap the economic victory condition rule for the Axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7838" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T23:27:40.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17898" CreationDate="2014-06-14T23:56:21.177" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lotus%20Cobra&quot;&gt;Lotus Cobra&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, add 1 mana of any color to your mana pool. Playing a regular land and a mana dork on turn 1 would allow you to play a lotus cobra on turn 2, and proceeding to play a scalding tarn (or one of his friends) to fetch another land and tap that land. Tarn triggers cobra for an extra mana, then the other land triggers cobra for an extra mana, then you tap the new land - suddenly you have 3 mana, two of which are any color, available on turn 2, even though you've already played a 2 drop this turn!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-06-14T23:56:21.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17923" CreationDate="2014-06-15T01:31:47.740" Score="9" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question touches on the timing when an event card is played. If a runner plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03034&quot;&gt;Scavenge&lt;/a&gt;, they must trash an installed program as part of the cost. Is that program already in the heap by the time that Scavenge's effect is triggered, thus allowing the program that was just trashed to then be installed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, this appears to have some strong interactions with cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02048&quot;&gt;Dinosaurus&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01026&quot;&gt;Femme Fatale&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T01:56:17.927" Title="In Android: Netrunner, can the Shaper event Scavenge install the program that was trashed to pay for it?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17922" CreationDate="2014-06-15T01:56:17.927" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:  Scavenge says &quot;As an additional cost to play this card, trash an installed program&quot;.  That means that when you play Scavenge (paying the 0 credits), you trash a program as a cost.  After you have trashed the program, it then states &quot;Install a program from your grip or heap lowering the install cost of that program by the cost of the program trashed&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you trash a program as part of the cost, that program is now in your heap.  You then can look at the number of credits to install another program from your grip or heap - including the program you just trashed, since it is already in your heap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct, this is a fantastic way to retarget Femme Fatale, or to move an installed breaker onto Dinosaurus.  The other main use is to Test Run out a breaker for 3 creits, and then Scavenge it to install it permanently for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T01:56:17.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17924" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T04:38:52.000" Score="4" ViewCount="6371" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yixlid%20Jailer&quot;&gt;Yixlid Jailer&lt;/a&gt; makes all cards in graveyard lose their abilities while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; giveths a card in graveyard the flashback ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yixlid%20Jailer&quot;&gt;Yixlid Jailer&lt;/a&gt;'s ability prevails, correct? As it is a 'negative buff' which precedes other abilities? Or can someoone explain this interaction better please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T16:38:18.913" Title="Will Yixlid Jailer negate Snapcaster Mage's flashback-giving ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17917" CreationDate="2014-06-15T04:45:04.503" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You forfeit your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/dad288711c4311ddbd0b0800200c9a66/46ACC68319B9F36910005BB69E429D41.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (3 separate places): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You must bring all four of your pawns into HOME by &#xA;  exact count!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If at any time you cannot move, you forfeit your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When moving along &#xA;  the outside track, you may not move your pawn &#xA;  forward beyond your own SAFETY ZONE entry.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a note under the rules for the 11 card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You may forfeit your move if you do not wish to change &#xA;  places and it is impossible to go forward 11 spaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T04:45:04.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17926" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T04:54:16.917" Score="2" ViewCount="3014" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I announce the end of my turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent responds with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=lightning%20bolt&quot;&gt;lightning bolt&lt;/a&gt; to my head. It resolves so I take 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I still have priority to do something else, eg to play instants that says do this when you take this much damage etc~?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T08:33:56.590" Title="Priorities at End of Turn" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2014-06-15T05:00:04.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best way, as I have found out, to get a deck critiqued is when you've just lost your competitive match, shake your opponent's hand and ask him/her how you lost your game, or how you could have won your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Almost all my opponents were eager to explain their paths to victory, and point out the mistakes in my gameplay choices. No one else quite knows your deck's weaknesses than the person sitting in front of you actively trying to dig for those said weaknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T05:00:04.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17924" CreationDate="2014-06-15T05:23:41.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, in this scenario, if Yixlid Jailer was already on the field when Snapcaster Mage's &quot;enter the battlefield&quot; ability resolves, the card &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have flashback until end of turn. This is mainly because, generally, when continuous effects that modify the same kind of thing (type, color, abilities, etc.), they are applied in timestamp order. Yixlid Jailer removes abilities, and Snapcaster Mage adds abilites, so when we consider how the effects are applied, first Yixlid Jailer removes all abilities of all cards in graveyards (because it entered the battlefield first), &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; Snapcaster Mage adds flashback to one card. So the net result is that that card has flashback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead Snapcaster Mage's ability resolved first, it would give the card flashback and then Yixlid Jailer would remove the abilities, so the card would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; end up with flashback. However, in most cases you can either cast the targeted spell in response to the Jailer or simply cast it before they have the opportunity to cast the Jailer (in the case where you cast Snapcaster on an empty stack and you are the active player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1.&lt;/strong&gt; The values of an object's characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. For a token or a copy of a spell or card, that means the values of the characteristics defined by the effect that created it. Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers in the following order:&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1f&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 6: Ability-adding effects, ability-removing effects, and effects that say an object can't have an ability are applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Within layers 1-6, apply effects from characteristic-defining abilities first (see rule 604.3), then all other effects in timestamp order (see rule 613.6). Note that dependency may alter the order in which effects are applied within a layer. (See rule 613.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6a&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6b&lt;/strong&gt;  A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability receives a timestamp at the time it's created.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One important thing to note is that Yixlid Jailer &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; say &quot;Cards in graveyards lose all abilities &lt;em&gt;and can't have or gain abilities&lt;/em&gt;,&quot; so it doesn't stop the card from gaining flashback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T16:38:18.913" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T16:38:18.913" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17926" CreationDate="2014-06-15T05:38:33.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your case, &lt;strong&gt;you do have priority and you can cast the instant in question&lt;/strong&gt;. However, an instant that says &quot;When you take [some amount of] damage, [do something]&quot; won't really do much because the damage has already been done, so to speak. However, if you had &lt;em&gt;responded&lt;/em&gt; to the lightning bolt with your instant, then it would have worked as intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You ask specifically about the end of the turn and responding to damage, but you also seem to not completely understand the priority system in general. There are several points during a turn (upkeep, end of draw step, main phase, beginning of combat, attack step, block step, end of combat step, end step) when the active player (the player taking the turn) gains priority. Whenever a player has priority, they can either do something (play a spell, activate an ability) or they can pass priority. Spells and abilities don't resolve and steps don't end until every player has passed priority. Usually, people take the shortcut that if somebody doesn't say anything, they are assumed to be passing priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is that every player gets priority every step (as long as someone gets it) and before anything resolves (so you always get an opportunity to respond). You can read &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;the comprehensive rules entry about timing and priority&lt;/a&gt; for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, when you say &quot;I end my turn&quot;, it really means &quot;I propose a shortcut that we skip to my end step&quot; (there is also a comprehensive rules entry about &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Shortcut&quot;&gt;Shortcuts&lt;/a&gt; and when your opponent cast the spell, they were implicitly accepting your shortcut, casting the spell during your end step, and then passing priority to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T05:38:33.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2014-06-15T09:27:48.877" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Either you have a close friend which will discuss things with you, or practice drafts at cockatrice (it's &quot;illegally&quot; free, but it's useful to increase your draft and constructed, since it cost you no money at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you learn stuffs, then move back to MTGO / real life drafts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This apply to constructed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source : personal experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastActivityDate="2014-06-15T09:27:48.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T21:40:15.587" Score="1" ViewCount="1343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently kindled my spouse's joy in board games but she has always enjoyed Monopoly as a child and tends to have that bias when selecting games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've played Carcassone and she genuinely enjoys it but is still looking for that trading like game mechanic but mostly in a two player setting. Are there any games that can be considered as such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly is purely a chance-based game that involves trading and making money by earning rent and selling property. The main mechanic she tends to favor is the trading and money making. I'm not aware of two player trading games which involve some kind of score (like amount of money) to determine the winner. I would like to know if something like this exists and is worth buying/playing especially for two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1795" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T20:46:37.870" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T20:46:37.870" Title="For one who likes trading games like monopoly what's the closest 2-player game with similar dynamics?" Tags="|monopoly|trading|substitutes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-06-16T16:40:55.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-15T03:09:03.720" Score="4" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;While in Japan recently, a Japanese colleague taught me an excellent card game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It involved a standard 52 card deck, and the game play proceeded like Uno in that each player could lay a card whose suit or number matched the top card on the discard pile.  However, the most important difference is that in this game your opponent can not end on a card which matches with any of the following operations on your cards: average, sum, geometric average, difference (2 cards) multiple, etc.  In addition, many of the cards have special meanings such as reverse, opponent shows cards, draw two, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My colleague told me that this was a common game for him and his school mates during high school.  I've spent a while googling, and I can't seem to come up with the name or official rules.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of the game?  What are the official rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Chris Mueller" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T14:59:39.340" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T14:14:52.707" Title="Name and rules of Japanese card game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17933" CreationDate="2014-06-16T08:19:30.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about &lt;em&gt;Traders of Genoa&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is a game of trading, wares, and negotiation. The players take&#xA;  the roles of traders in Genoa in the 16th century. They fulfill&#xA;  orders, deliver messages, and take ownership of buildings in the city.&#xA;  Of course, this is not possible without the help of the other traders&#xA;  - thus, the need for clever negotiation. And that can cost money and other valuable goods! The player who earns the most in the game is the&#xA;  winner! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/200-Traders-of-Genoa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://riograndegames.com/Game/200-Traders-of-Genoa&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a fair amount more complex than Monopoly, but much less random and there's a lot more negotiation and trading involved. It plays with two, although it is better with more, much like Monopoly. It'll probably take about 90 minutes to play to completion with two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently officially out of print, but you shouldn't have too much trouble tracking down a copy. It's sometimes known as &quot;Genoa&quot; rather than &quot;Traders of Genoa&quot; but it's the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T08:19:30.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13555" CreationDate="2014-06-16T10:45:13.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thunderstone (Advance) is the one game in my collection where I find the time of the box to be hilariously out.  Playing a 4/5 player game usually takes my group 2-3 hours every time, even with experienced players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's still fun :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T10:45:13.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17926" CreationDate="2014-06-16T20:47:23.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer assumes that you are playing with Competitive or Regular REL, which includes your typical Friday Night Magic. I explicitly mention tournament rules when they apply, so just know that they do not apply in a non-tournament setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent did not specify when he was casting Lightning Bolt, and so he is assumed to be acting during your end step because of the following tournament rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The statement &quot;Go&quot; (and equivalents such as &quot;Your turn&quot; and &quot;Done&quot;) offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the end step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game moves forward to your end step, with a Lightning Bolt on the stack, and you have priority because of yet another tournament rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a player adds an object to the stack, he or she is assumed to be passing priority unless he or she explicitly announces that he or she intends to retain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game continues normally from that exact point. You have a few options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pass priority.&lt;/strong&gt; Lightning Bolt will resolve, and then you will get priority again because you are the active player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession, the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cast an instant spell.&lt;/strong&gt; The spell would resolve before Lightning Bolt resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1a A player may cast an instant spell any time he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Activate an activated ability.&lt;/strong&gt; The ability would resolve before Lightning Bolt resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1b A player may activate an activated ability any time he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the game can only progress when all players pass in succession. Your opponent decided to cast Lightning Strike in your End Step, and you get the option to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T16:54:12.977" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T16:54:12.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17938" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-16T20:56:28.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Examples might include games like bridge or whist, with similar &quot;bidding mechanics. Or &quot;conquer the world games&quot; such as Risk or Allies and Axis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-06-17T14:10:07.303" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T14:10:07.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17939" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-16T20:56:28.447" Score="0" Body="Games that are &quot;similar,&quot; but not the same in concepts, mechanics, etc." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-06-16T20:56:28.447" LastActivityDate="2014-06-16T20:56:28.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11473" CreationDate="2014-06-17T11:20:27.797" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It might be worth noting that &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/mm/180&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archangel's Light was specifically designed to be at a &quot;safe&quot; power level&lt;/a&gt; because it was designed very late in development, to replace a card that was turning out to be rather broken and couldn't be salvaged. R&amp;amp;D don't have an infinite amount of time to balance each set, and they'd rather leave some cards at a safer power level than risk pushing them up to a level where they can't tell if it might be bad for the health of the constructed format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T11:20:27.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2014-06-17T16:48:45.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is never possible to guarantee a win in pandemic, even with 4 epidemics. However, I have played rather a lot of 2 player pandemic with 7 epidemic cards from the 'on the brink' expansion, and my win rate was above 40%. But the guy I played with was also very, very good, and we were using the &quot;Brettspielwelt New Assignment&quot; rules, which is that all players may change their roles when the card is played. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/494697/clarification-of-the-new-assignment-special-event&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boardgamegeek thread on that errata&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also used the Brettspielwelt system where every player plays with their hands faceup, which may not be the best way to do it but I think that house rule is best because all it does is speed up communication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games we tried to play where only one player could change their role, but it probably would have dropped our win rate below 33% (but not below 25%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7850" LastEditorUserId="10405" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T09:09:52.470" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T09:09:52.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2014-06-17T22:38:09.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're interested in testing the aesthetics and flow of the game (rather than fully automated simulation for balance purposes), then I'd look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.berserk-games.com/ts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tabletop Simulator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From their site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tabletop Simulator is the only simulator where you can let your aggression out by flipping the table! There are no rules to follow: just you, a physics sandbox, and your friends. Make your own games and play how YOU want! Unlimited gaming possibilities!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5587" LastActivityDate="2014-06-17T22:38:09.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15369" CreationDate="2014-06-18T01:27:28.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, this is actually a pretty difficult problem to solve. You might have a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_game_playing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;General game playing&lt;/a&gt; on wikipedia, and the things linked from there. There are a few engines that people have built that you could look into. For your purposes you don't need the AI to find optimal strategies, of course, but even just doing well enough to come close enough to human play to measure what you want to measure is tough - I'm not sure whether or not they'll be good enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't count on much of anything existing beyond what you see there, and find searching for similar things. There's a reason they're still holding contests! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-06-18T06:09:26.650" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T06:09:26.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11298" CreationDate="2014-06-18T07:43:47.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One tip that the brilliant Magic podcast &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Limited Resources&lt;/a&gt; advocates is noting down your mistakes as you play. Bring a pad, and every time you realise that there was a better play, note it. See if you can spot patterns, areas where you consistently play &quot;loose&quot; (for example, playing out cards before combat so your opponent knows you don't have a trick), even if you still win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this means you play slower, but if you're looking to improve, the first step is spotting where you make mistakes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same thing applies to the draft. You don't have to note down the whole pack, but you should be noting which cards you were torn between (just the initials should do), and what cards you really should have considered in light of what you saw later when you played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I heard recommended is to look at the visual spoiler for the set, and make a judgement on every card, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; the Commons/Uncommons, which are what really matter in Draft. Then listen to someone else's set review (I'm going to recommend the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LRCast&lt;/a&gt; again), and see how they disagree. Then &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt;. See who was right. Do their criticisms have value? Do yours?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T07:43:47.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17949" CreationDate="2014-06-18T14:55:51.447" Score="2" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say a blue dwarf makes the final connection to the gold. However, there are two paths that one could take to get from the ladder to the gold. One of these paths has a blue door, one of them has no doors. Obviously the blue dwarf would prefer to use the path with the door, so does the player who makes the final connection get to choose what path to use? Or does it go by shortest path to the gold? Basically, what are the rules to determine what path counts as the &quot;final path&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7076" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T22:24:50.030" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T22:24:50.030" Title="What if there are two paths connecting to the gold in Saboteur 2?" Tags="|saboteur-2|end-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2014-06-18T16:22:18.493" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new-ish &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/137136/pandemic-in-the-lab&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;In the Lab&quot; expansion&lt;/a&gt; has &quot;team&quot; rules which support six players as 3 teams of 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7797" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:22:18.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13349" CreationDate="2014-06-18T16:38:10.270" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of this is that it should be from the current round of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must admit but it's been a while since I've played Arcana. Good game, with enough innovations to have a place among my deck builders!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7855" LastActivityDate="2014-06-18T16:38:10.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17946" CreationDate="2014-06-18T20:23:07.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no such concept. The following are the win conditions for the red and blue teams from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A team wins if a dwarf from that team creates the connection to the treasure and the way there&#xA;isn't blocked by a door of the other color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A team wins if a dwarf from the other team creates the connection to the treasure, but the way there for his or her own team is blocked by a door of the wrong color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both teams win if The Boss, The Geologist or The Profiteer creates the connection to the gold and the way there isn't blocked by a door of the other color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A dwarf from the blue team created the connection, and there is a path that's not blocked by a red door, so the blue team wins, and the red team does not. That's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way the red team can win if a dwarf from the blue team creates the connection is if the blue team can't win (i.e. every path is blocked by red doors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T01:23:25.987" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T01:23:25.987" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="203" CreationDate="2014-06-18T22:57:58.443" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in my copy and on the official site are quite clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the active player has the dragon tile, he or she places it at the bottom of the draw pile and draws a tile from the top. If the active player does not have the dragon tile, he or she draws a tile from the top of the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starting with the active player and moving&#xA;  clockwise, each player with fewer than three path&#xA;  tiles draws a tile, continuing around the board&#xA;  until all players have three path tiles or the draw&#xA;  pile is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When new tiles become available later in&#xA;  the game, the first player to draw a tile will&#xA;  be the player with the Dragon tile instead&#xA;  of the active player. That player sets aside&#xA;  the Dragon tile when drawing a path tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, they are quite wordy. So let me rephrase them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the draw pile is empty and tiles are added to it because one or more players were eliminated. If someone has the Dragon Tile, take the Dragon Tile from whoever has it and place it at the bottom of the deck. Deal one tile to them, one to tile to the player next to them, one tile to the player next to that player, and so on until everyone has three tiles or someone draws the Dragon Tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-12-18T04:04:18.197" LastActivityDate="2017-12-18T04:04:18.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17952" CreationDate="2014-06-19T12:39:12.990" Score="3" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a capturing move of a non-promoted cell is at the king-row, the cell becomes a king cell and can't make any other capturing move even if there are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about a promoted cell that makes a capturing move is at the king-row, and there are capturing moves available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7510" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T09:30:58.853" Title="What happens when a promoted cell that makes a capturing move is at the king-row, and there are capturing moves available?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17951" CreationDate="2014-06-19T13:14:01.420" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All capturing moves are compulsory (with the exception of your choice of which capturing sequence to take).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a special case that causes a pieces movement to end when it is promoted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the piece was already promoted before re-entering the king-row as part of a capturing sequence. Its movement does not end and you must continue to make the available capturing moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T13:14:01.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17953" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-19T13:36:03.870" Score="3" ViewCount="832" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think I know the answer to this but was just hoping someone could prove me wrong... Let's say you're casting Psychic Shriek against a mob of 15 Boyz. Psychic Shriek states &quot;Roll 3d6 and subtract the target's leadership,&quot; while Mob Rule states &quot;...may always choose to substitute the number of Orks in their mob for their normal Leadership value.&quot; Do you roll the 3d6 against their Ld value of 7 (for Boyz), or can they choose (per the mob rule) to substitute Ld 10 for this? It's not a Ld test, nor does it require any intervention by the Ork player which might give them an opportunity to decide to substitute it, but the wording of mob rule is just vague enough that it seems they can do it, literally, whenever they want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The counter-example is that they should be able to do it whenever their intervention is required, such as for a morale/pinning test, but not when something is comparing to their base leadership stat. I know that's pretty weak, but it holds just enough logic that I feel clarification is in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BONUS QUESTION:&lt;/strong&gt; Does Mob Rule still apply to a character in a challenge? Granted I've heard rumors that the new codex will make Orks immune to challenges but figured I'd ask anyways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7313" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T23:58:42.543" Title="40k - Ork Mob Rule vs Psychic Shriek" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17953" CreationDate="2014-06-19T15:14:38.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the Letter of the Law:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Psychic Shriek asks you to evaluate the target unit's Leadership value. It does not say that it causes them to make a leadership test, so it can still apply to things that ignore/auto-pass leadership tests.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ork Mob Rule says you (meaning the Ork player) may &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; choose to substitute the number of Orks in the mob for their Leadership &lt;em&gt;value&lt;/em&gt;. It does not have a limitation of when this can be done (so technically, randomly in the middle of the shooting phase, you can just declare &quot;oh, and because there's 9 of them left, their leadership is 9&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the Spirit of the Law:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Orks are either so dumb they don't know they should be afraid of things even if they out number them, or so incredibly brilliant and powerful that we mere 'umies are unable to comprehend their courage. This invigoration seems to come from a quick head-count of their numbers and the raw logic that US &gt; THEM == VICTORY. So when attempting to scare the spores out of a group of Orks, you have to consider that either they get a little scared, but after looking around for help find themselves in sufficient quantity to handle the threat, or they realize they are confident in the prowess and abilities of their compatriots and simply dismiss the threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T15:14:38.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11920" CreationDate="2014-06-19T18:56:19.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the Japan first strategy is the only viable method for taking out the Axis.&#xA;The US doesn't even need to fully dedicate themselves to the Japan-first mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Common first turn movements:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Russia builds up defense to try to hold off on the German onslaught&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Send two tanks down to India for some backup&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;England&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;England's fighters/bomber fly from England into Russia so that the next time around the board they can fly into India (sink a few German boats on the way).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;England sends their transport down to pick up two infantry men on Australia.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;England buys 1 Industrial Complex and saves their remaining 15 IPCs for their second round (so they could buy and place whatever they'd like)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;US&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't build IC in Asia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not super necessary to weaken naval fleet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move guys into Africa to fight Germany there&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Turn 2&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defense&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;England&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy planes/armor with the extra 15 IPCs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping a strong defense, start attacking Japan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move two infantry men up from Australasia, use them as either offense or defense&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7860" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-19T18:56:19.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17953" CreationDate="2014-06-19T23:20:29.907" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6th Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in your interpretation: the target's leadership is determined by the &lt;code&gt;Mob Rule&lt;/code&gt; special rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ork Psychology and morale is directly linked to the number of Boyz&#xA;  around them at any given time.  ... Ork mobs may always choose to&#xA;  substitute the number of Orks in their mob for their normal Leadership&#xA;  value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mob Rule! is in effect at all times, regardless of whose turn or what action is requesting the leadership value. Thus, 15 Ork Boyz means subtracting 15 from the 3d6 that the Psychic Shriek-attacking player rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in line with the answer provided by @DavidCEllis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your &lt;strong&gt;bonus&lt;/strong&gt; question, while the challengers may be separate from the assault in terms of &lt;em&gt;wound allocation&lt;/em&gt;, they are still very much part of the unit/mob they entered the assault with. Therefore, the character in the challenge &lt;em&gt;as well as&lt;/em&gt; the accompanying unit can use the Leadership value Mob Rule! bestows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule-as-Written vs Rule-as-...Expected&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to the BRB (6th and 7th), this answer asserts that leadership may exceed the normal 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All but one of the characteristics are rated on a scale from 0 to 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be commonly held as an unbreakable rule, and indeed forums about this at large does seem to interpret the rule with a hard capped 10.  In support of this, the Ork FAQ for 6th edition actually &lt;em&gt;partially&lt;/em&gt; addresses this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can a Weirdboyz leadership be increased to more than 10 by Mob Rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. No, it can be increased, but only up to a maximum of 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much to my dismay, however, we will find this rule almost impossible to reference for current play.  GW has discontinued distribution of 6th edition FAQs to replace it with the 7th edition FAQ, where this rule is woefully absent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In light its (deliberate? accidental?) removal from the FAQ, the rule from the BRB (again 6th and 7th) iterates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On rare occasions, a conflict will arise between a rule in this&#xA;  rulebook, and one printed in a codex. Where this occurs, the rule&#xA;  printed in the codex or Army List Entry always takes precedence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like GW could have easily cleared this up by adding to Mob Rule in the FAQ &quot;to a limit of 10 LD&quot; (even in the FAQ they directed this only to Weirdboyz) or by saying &quot;superseding the normal limit of 10 LD&quot; or any variety of phrasings... but RAW, they didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is likely to be a hugely unpopular interpretation, and thus most players (non-Ork, Ork?) may amicably decide that LD10 is the cap, which is fine and the intended way for rule conflicts to be resolved. That said, in 6th I'd say it's perfectly viable to do a roll-off for rule interpretation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7th Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If every model in a unit has this special rule, and the unit fails a&#xA;  Morale check or Pinning test (after any re-rolls they may have), roll&#xA;  immediately on the following table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavourful leadership boon is entirely gone, replaced with a d6 roll table, and it's pretty straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T23:58:42.543" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T23:58:42.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17958" CreationDate="2014-06-20T02:15:45.567" Score="5" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago, I remember reading about a theory that sounds like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players A and B have access to options X and Y. Player A also has access to option Z. Player A is, at worst, equal to and, at best, at an advantage to player B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so that was poorly worded. Let me put it another way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Having more options available to you in a two player game can't possibly hurt you.**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A can attack from both sides. Player B must attack from the left. If attacking to the left is the best choice, then both players are equal. If attacking from the right is the best choice, then Player A has a distinct advantage. Player A is either tied or winning. Player B is either tied or losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me the name of the theory I described?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** &lt;em&gt;&quot;... can't possibly hurt you&quot;&lt;/em&gt; assumes optimal play from both players. It's not always the case the player with the most options will use them wisely. Intuition tells us that sometimes having too many options can make it difficult for the player to find the best one. Just assume that both players are making the best choices when this theory applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:34:03.660" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T08:34:03.660" Title="What's the name of the theory that the player with the most options has the advantage?" Tags="|terminology|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="22" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17957" CreationDate="2014-06-20T06:02:44.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds a lot like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strategy-stealing_argument&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;strategy-stealing argument&lt;/a&gt;. It's often used to prove that one side of a game has an advantage, even if optimal strategy is not known. As a broad example, consider a game with the following properties:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a turn-based game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The starting positions are identical except Player A goes first&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A has the option of skipping the first turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming optimal play, the first player cannot be at a disadvantage. The proof is a strategy-stealing argument: Any hypothetical strategy that Player B could use to get an advantage could be countered by Player A just skipping the first turn and then using that exact strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T06:02:44.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17934" CreationDate="2014-06-20T14:14:52.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might it be Crazy Eight? (or Crates, Switch, Swedish Rummy, Last One, Rockaway, Mau-Mau or Pesten).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the most rules you mention, like reverse, draw two. Looks like UNO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last card rule might be a kind 'house rule', because there are a lot of variants of this card game all over the world.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/eights/crazy8s.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/eights/crazy8s.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the japanese wikipedia article, its saying also Crazy Eights. Article translated by Google Translate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://translate.google.nl/translate?hl=nl&amp;amp;sl=ja&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fja.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2F%E3%82%AF%E3%83%AC%E3%82%A4%E3%82%B8%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A8%E3%82%A4%E3%83%88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://translate.google.nl/translate?hl=nl&amp;amp;sl=ja&amp;amp;tl=en&amp;amp;u=http%3A%2F%2Fja.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2F%E3%82%AF%E3%83%AC%E3%82%A4%E3%82%B8%E3%83%BC%E3%82%A8%E3%82%A4%E3%83%88&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5763" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T14:14:52.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="641" CreationDate="2014-06-20T17:03:47.323" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;How we play monopoly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player who goes bankrupt first gives their properties to the ones still playing. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No trading till all the properties are bought. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If someone lands on a property and chooses not to buy it, it goes to auction and the one who gave it up can't bid. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We have the Lord of the Rings version which has a ring that moves around the board and when it reaches go ends the game. &#xA;If we choose to use the ring, we decide when it reaches go if we still feel like playing and if we do we send it round again. Usually it takes 3 or 4 times round before we end the game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part we play monopoly pretty straight and don't use the free-parking or no auctions rules that seem really common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7862" LastEditorUserId="7768" LastEditDate="2014-06-20T19:33:17.283" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T19:33:17.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-20T21:09:15.357" Score="2" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some say it's due to BGG being full of people who lived through the Cold War, adding a certain nostalgic element, but perhaps someone who has played it can offer some further insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7856" LastActivityDate="2014-06-20T21:09:15.357" Title="What is it about Twilight Struggle that keeps it so consistently highly rated on BGG?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-06-21T07:31:25.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17966" CreationDate="2014-06-21T18:31:44.387" Score="15" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Band of Misfits&lt;/em&gt; is an imitation action card from Dark Ages expansion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/buQRB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Band of Misfits&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose there are also reaction cards in the Supply, such as &lt;em&gt;Moat&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Beggar&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tUoTA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Moat&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2rbk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simplicity, I will refer to the player who has &lt;em&gt;Band of Misfits&lt;/em&gt; in their hand as myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I play &lt;em&gt;Band of Misfits&lt;/em&gt; as a reaction card when I am being attacked? The card says, &quot;Play ...&quot;, which seems to mean that it can only be activated on my turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I can play it as a reaction card, does it mean that it is still a &lt;em&gt;Moat&lt;/em&gt; when my turn really comes?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:03:42.700" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:03:42.700" Title="Can Band of Misfits be played as a reaction card?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17964" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-21T18:42:29.400" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T18:42:29.400" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T18:42:29.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17965" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-21T18:42:29.400" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-06-21T18:42:29.400" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T18:42:29.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2014-06-21T19:00:04.177" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't play it as a reaction card. Only cards labeled &quot;Reaction&quot; on the bottom can be played as reactions. Band of Misfits just says Action, so it may only be played during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do play it during your turn, if Moat is in the supply, you can certainly play it as a Moat, to get +2 Cards. But it doesn't copy another card until you actually &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt; it, and you can't play it except as an action during your own turn, so you can't use it to get the protection from attack that Moat offers. When someone else plays an attack card, you have no opportunity to play an action card, so you can't play Band of Misfits then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-06-21T19:00:04.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17967" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-21T23:48:32.240" Score="5" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a time limit in which the Not so fast me bucko card must be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card text reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;play this card Immediately after a card is drawn or played. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drew into a low level monster which if i had beaten it would have won me the game, the other two players i was playing with discussed between themselves and worked out if they could play enough bonuses to stop me winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After discovering they didn't have enough between them one of them played &quot;Not so fast me bucko&quot; to prevent me from drawing the monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My argument was that the card states it must be played immediately where as they spent over a minute working out what they could have done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their argument was that immediately just meant before another card is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7869" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T13:56:43.083" Title="Munchkin Booty: is there a time limit for &quot;Not so fast me bucko&quot;" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17969" CreationDate="2014-06-22T00:33:15.030" Score="11" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I grew up in the 80s, so the game should of come out in the late 80s or early 90s. I believe that the game was made by the same makers that made Hero Quest, but I might be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was an War based game, that had 2 sides a good side and a dark side. The light side had knights and the dark side had a giant Ogre, wolf riders, and other stuff. I really liked it because there was different strategies based on the side you were on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a kid, I felt like the map was an 8' x 8' map. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully this is enough info that someone can answer me... I've done a bunch of googling, but have had no success...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7989" OwnerDisplayName="VenomFangs" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T16:34:32.630" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T20:43:37.727" Title="What is this game with Knights and Ogres and wolf riders I played when I was a kid?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17968" CreationDate="2014-06-22T00:40:03.497" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Battle Masters a collaboration of Milton Bradley and Games Workshop:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mNbUe.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Battle Masters&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/700/battle-masters&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek Page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great game, had a huge board and the wolfriders and cool units you were describing.  I played several matches of this as a kid with my buddy who also played HeroQuest with me.  I don't remember the mechanics very well, but I will never forget how cool the pieces and map are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="SuicideClyde" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T16:37:50.977" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T16:37:50.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17977" CreationDate="2014-06-22T02:50:46.047" Score="6" ViewCount="1524" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I clearly didn't format my prior question appropriately so I'll rephrase things). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do MTG Core sets contain new (never before seen) cards?  Or is it just cards for the prior year's expansion set? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that there are new cards, how does this compare with the ratio of old to new cards available in expansion sets? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="3243" LastEditDate="2014-06-22T18:50:29.097" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T08:16:12.887" Title="Do MTG Core sets contain new (never before seen) cards? How does this compare with expansion sets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17967" CreationDate="2014-06-22T03:49:56.703" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find anything about the definition of immediately in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;. But my interpretation would be that as long as no other actions were taken between the drawing of monster and the playing of the card, that would still count as immediate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as the rules themselves say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any disputes should be settled by loud arguments, with the owner of the game having the final word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5424" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T03:49:56.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17973" CreationDate="2014-06-22T08:14:43.257" Score="9" ViewCount="4727" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple nights ago while playing Coup for the first time. During one of our games we came across the situation of someone challenging an Ambassador Exchange action. Given that both the   Ambassador's Exchange and the challenge are going to require the swapping of active influence cards, what is the proper sequence to change them in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following sequence is what we ended up using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claim to be an Ambassador and state intent to perform an exchange.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Leave current influence cards face down on the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw two (or one if only one influence left) new cards  from the court deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point the challenge was issued.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player then revealed their Ambassador card to the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ambassador card was then reshuffled back into the court deck and a replacement was taken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player then continued on with the Exchange and could swap with either his existing influence card and the newly drawn card which replaced his Ambassador.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seemed like the most sensible way of doing it. However the rules themselves didn't explicitly define this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5424" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T00:58:08.013" Title="Challenging an Ambassador Exchange" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17972" CreationDate="2014-06-22T14:59:57.943" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After claiming Ambassador, the player should pause for a few seconds and confirm that there are no challenges before drawing new cards.&lt;/strong&gt; The reason is so that, if successfully challenged, the player does not gain any improper information about the cards remaining in the deck. (For example, seeing two Dukes in the deck can be a powerful suggestion that the players claiming it are lying!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(According to the rules, you always check for no challenge before proceeding with a claimed action. But for the Assassin and Captain, you're waiting for the victim to take the hit (or claim a blocker) anyway, and for the Duke, it's easy enough to just return the coins. Only for the Ambassador is it important to deliberately pause. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also worth mentioning that you seem to have a slight detail confused. A player using Ambassador &lt;strong&gt;always draws 2 and returns 2, even if they have only one influence remaining.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T14:59:57.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17970" CreationDate="2014-06-22T20:23:35.847" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Core sets do contain new cards, but at a lower ratio than typical expansions. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_2014/Changes#Cards_added_to_Magic_2014&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; indicates that about half (112/249) the cards in Magic 2014 were new, while the rest were reprints. I would guess that the ratio will be about the same for Magic 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By comparison, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Theros#Reprinted_cards&quot;&gt;Theros&lt;/a&gt;, out of 249 cards, there were 12 reprints, and 5 functional reprints (nearly identical functionality, but a different card name).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-06-22T20:23:35.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17972" CreationDate="2014-06-23T00:58:08.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For any claimed action, the order is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State the action you are taking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for someone to challenge you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If challenged, resolve the challenge - either you reveal the card, replace it and continue resolving the action, or you lose an influence and stop resolving the action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the action can be blocked, you see if it is blocked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal with challenges to the claim of the blocker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, if not blocked, resolve the action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the case of Ambassador, if you are challenged and you successfully reveal an Ambassador, then you shuffle it back into the deck, draw a card, then go on with your Ambassador action of drawing two cards and shuffling two cards back into the deck (always two, never one).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T00:58:08.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17963" CreationDate="2014-06-23T01:02:13.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Band of Misfits only &quot;becomes&quot; another card once it is played. When it's in your hand, it only has the Action type and not the Reaction type, since it hasn't been played yet, so it can't be used to react to something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once it's in play, it is a copy of the card you choose until it leaves play, so you could, for example, play it as an Urchin, then play another Attack card and trash the BoM to gain a Mercenary. Or if there were some magical way to make Goons cost less than BoM (no official card does), then you could play BoM as Goons and then gain 1 VP token each time you bought a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T01:02:13.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17970" CreationDate="2014-06-23T12:34:06.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In response to your specific need, &lt;strong&gt;there will be very few cards in Magic 2015 that existed in any set since Magic 2014&lt;/strong&gt; and even then it'll be a limited overlap. This is simple pragmatism on Wizard's part; if half the cards in the new set are already in even the new players' hands, then people aren't as interested in the set. So if you're looking for cards that don't exist in &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; collection, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of the &amp;quot;reprints&amp;quot; will actually be from old sets like &lt;em&gt;Mirrodin&lt;/em&gt; (for example, Darksteel Citadel is back, and we can expect to see a lot of the old Convoke cards from original &lt;em&gt;Ravnica: City of Guilds&lt;/em&gt;), and you will never have seen them before. So you should get a good sample of new blood for your collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you want &lt;em&gt;definite&lt;/em&gt; new blood, getting a booster box of &lt;em&gt;Theros&lt;/em&gt; or another &amp;quot;Fall set&amp;quot; would be a more reliable way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some Background Detail on Core Sets and new Cards:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Historically, there was a shift in 2009, when the set Magic 2010 was released.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Up to that point, core sets were basically &amp;quot;Standard enablers&amp;quot;. Their job was to provide a set of cards to allow players to build basic decks for the main 2-year rotating format, which would then be &amp;quot;powered&amp;quot; by the main mechanics of the &amp;quot;Expert&amp;quot; sets. They also acted as an intro product to the game, but this was fundamentally a secondary role. The main evidence of this focus was the fact that Core Sets didn't provide any new cards, and little to no new art, which meant that they were generally a hodge-podge of cards with no unifying theme, a poor limited environment and (generally) a lower power level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic 2010 changed this by saying &amp;quot;Look, this is the product that lays out what Magic &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, not just what it's doing this year. We're going to have the Magic rings, the Necromancers, the wacky Goblin hijinks, the Fireballs, and &lt;strong&gt;if a card we want for it doesn't exist, we will make it exist&lt;/strong&gt;. Note that this is the inverse to the expert set's dictum &amp;quot;If an existing card &lt;strong&gt;will fit with our theme&lt;/strong&gt;, we should put it in&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Hao shows, this leads to the Core Set having a limited number of new cards. But it's also meant that the reprints they pull in are better chosen, and generally chosen with an eye to new players seeing new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The set is also far more &amp;quot;draftable&amp;quot;, which I would argue is the best way of gaining value from your booster packs. I've been regularly drafting newbie 2014 on Magic Online, and it's a blast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T16:10:51.643" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:10:51.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="17978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6058" CreationDate="2014-06-23T13:17:06.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to defeat an immortal dwarves combo in a 3-playergame with one new player ( so no help from him).&#xA;The key was killing his race in decline so that he had 'only' 11 points a turn. Hide on the other side of the map and try to accumulate more than 11 points a turn. Do not fight them!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a good combo, but it only gives them map pressure. Just go for the points and play your game while trying to avoid them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7873" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T13:17:06.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17967" CreationDate="2014-06-23T13:56:43.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game has no comprehensive rules, as it isn't meant to be a competitive game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, I would allow them to play it at any time, as they can always 'forget' they had it in their hand otherwise... but really it comes down to how you want to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T13:56:43.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2014-06-23T14:36:43.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll share my experience on sleeving matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;KMC&lt;/strong&gt; : I use the black matte KMC. And, It's thick, so if you are a double-sleever guy (like me), don't choose it, since it would be super thick, and hard to shuffle. But, easiness in shuffling is subjective, so, if you wanna try, go for it. Anyway, it's unarguably durable and really smooth to shuffle though (0 break record so far).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultra pro&lt;/strong&gt; : The first &quot;serious&quot; sleeve I use (the rugged-back one). And it's frustratingly breaking apart a lot. BUT, I think they improving their sleeve quality later on, so, when I try it several years later (looking for cheap sleeve for my edh), it's surprisingly durable. So then, when I buy them later (the non-glare one) for my modern deck, it turns out really good and the most &quot;fit&quot; generally for double sleeving. I love it very much. (10-ish break record the old one, 0 out of +-200 for the new one)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dragon shield&lt;/strong&gt; : I never use them (don't quite like the color selection). But, one of my friend (old player) use it, and I dislike it since it doesn't have a rugged back (harder to shuffle for me) -never try to find the rugged back one. But it seems a good amount of player satisfied with it, so, it may be decent too.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion :&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the sleeve quality is important, but your sleeve durability also greatly affected by your shuffling technique. So, if you shuffle correctly (i guess), then at least ultra-pro (I specifically recommend the non-glare one) is decent enough. not to mention it's somewhat cheaper than KMC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally loves ultra pro, since I am able to double sleeve it without being too thick. There's a non-glare variant too, which is I use to double sleeve my modern deck. So far, my subjective rating for Ultra-Pro is 9/10, and KMC is 8/10 (mainly for being too thick to double sleeve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastEditorUserId="7720" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T15:32:34.193" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T15:32:34.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21349" CreationDate="2014-06-23T14:49:12.680" Score="2" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the MLP CCG there is a card from the Twilight / Applejack theme deck called &quot;Outshine Them All&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://mlpccg.wikia.com/wiki/Outshine_Them_All_%28Premiere%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mlpccg.wikia.com/wiki/Outshine_Them_All_(Premiere)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to pay one action token to use it, and it only gives you any action token profit if there's a troublemaker in play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it useless? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, if you feel like giving an opinion: &#xA;Should it give you two action tokens for winning a faceoff? &#xA;Or should it be one point (vs action token) for winning a faceoff?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly interested in whether or not it's useless and why/why not.&#xA;Perhaps even a reason it could even be useful if it's not useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7876" LastEditorUserId="7876" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T20:06:53.073" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T00:31:04.207" Title="Is the card &quot;Outshine Them All&quot; from the MLP CCG useless?" Tags="|my-little-pony-ccg|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17984" CreationDate="2014-06-23T15:33:24.623" Score="3" ViewCount="2020" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a player take a Bonus card as soon as they have passed their turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 7 of the rule book states &quot;Three out of the nine Bonus cards award Victory points when you have completed all the actions you wish to take in the current Action phase (called passing)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a player keep hold of every bonus card until they have completed their turn and passed? Does this mean that a player who passes may not have access to some Bonus cards because other players with turns remaining may still be holding them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T16:46:05.197" Title="Correct use of Bonus cards in Terra Mystica" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17983" CreationDate="2014-06-23T16:46:05.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One action you can take in Terra Mystica is ending your participation for the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To do this, you first select a new bonus card out of the ones remaining (taking any bonus gold that exists on that bonus card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you apply End-of-Turn bonuses from your existing bonus card (as you mention - there are three bonus cards that may award victory points based on how many dwellings, etc. you own).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the round is officially over for you, and others may now select the bonus card you just put back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words - yes; a player takes a bonus card as soon as they end their participation in the round (and some won't be available, as other players will still have theirs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T16:46:05.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14278" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:15:36.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Canterlot Nights version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20140509173956/mylittleponyccg/images/a/ab/MLP_CCG_Comprehensive_Rules_%28v2.0%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(503.5) Exhausted cards do not contribute their power to Faceoffs or to confronting problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(702.1) Continuous abilities generate continuous modifiers, and function until the card that has them loses them or leaves the appropriate zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the abilities keep working.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T16:48:16.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17987" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:39:45.807" Score="4" ViewCount="3167" Body="&lt;p&gt;An example situation :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Death&quot;&gt;Living Death&lt;/a&gt; resolves while there is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urabrask%20the%20Hidden&quot;&gt;Urabrask the Hidden&lt;/a&gt; in my graveyard and another creature in my opponent's graveyard. Urabrask says &amp;quot;Creatures your opponents control enter the battlefield tapped.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will my opponent's creature come into play tapped if it enters the battlefield at the same time as Urabrask?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T22:43:27.347" Title="Do creatures come into play tapped if they come into play at the same time as a card which says &quot;Creatures come into play tapped&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17986" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:46:02.830" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your opponent's creatures &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; enter tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability &quot;Creatures your opponents control enter the battlefield tapped&quot; creates a replacement effect on creatures entering the battlefield. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_Effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 614.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Replacement effects must exist before the appropriate event occurs -- they can't &quot;go back in time&quot; and change something that's already happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your Urabrask wasn't on the battlefield &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; your opponent's creature entered, it's ability does not effect that creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-06-23T22:43:27.347" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T22:43:27.347" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17990" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:46:44.947" Score="3" ViewCount="550" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an Engineer builds a Stronghold they get 3 victory points for each bridge. My question is when the game ends do they get this victory point bonus for each bridge again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm kinda confused because the rule book says the end-of-turn bonus cards do NOT yield their bonuses on the final round. I'm wondering if the same rule applies for favor tiles and the Engineer-bridge victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7878" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T18:25:23.057" Title="Engineers end of game victory point stronghold" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17991" CreationDate="2014-06-23T17:54:37.060" Score="6" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the middle of a game I built a temple which let me pick a favor tile. I selected the favor tile that lets you form a town with 6 power. This favor tile also awards you 2 of the red cultures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It just so happened that when I pulled the tile I was 2 moves away on the red culture track from being at the top, AND after pulling the favor tile I had 4 structures that that netted 6 power meaning I now had enough to form a town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was playing a two player game and the person I was playing with and I didn't know if I should be allowed to move my red culture piece up 2 since my 4 structures with 6 power were now enough to form a town. We wondered if the 2 red cultures had to be taken first, then the town formed next. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We decided that I should form the town first, then move the culture piece up 2. Please let me know if this was correct OR if I should have been forced to move the culture first (meaning I could only use 1 of the 2 bonuses) then form the town next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7878" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T18:14:19.713" Title="6 power favor tile Town/Culture benefit order" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17988" CreationDate="2014-06-23T18:25:23.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bonus cards the rule book is referring to are the cards that flip at the beginning of each round (each with one ongoing effect and one end-of-round bonus effect). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's simply stating that the final end-of-turn bonus effect does not apply on the final round (hence the tiny half-bonus card they provide you with to cover up the second half).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastActivityDate="2014-06-23T18:25:23.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17989" CreationDate="2014-06-23T18:33:59.873" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if a Town would be founded by taking this tile, you get the key immediately, and may use it to reach 10 on the Fire Cult with the 2 Fire influence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;we see that founding a town is not an active action you have to execute but happens automatically and instantly when the conditions are met.&#xA;  and by taking the favor tile(s) the conditions have been met.&#xA;  thus in the same moment you have a town and are allowed to advance to level 10 with the cult bonus shown on your favor tile(s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/10450352#10450352&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/10450352#10450352&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T18:14:19.713" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T18:14:19.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17992" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-24T23:48:52.293" Score="-7" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know in a casual setting it's probably considered unsportsmanlike conduct, but let's say I was in some sort of tournament and I played a card that said I have to flip a coin. Would a judge issue me a penalty if I flipped a two headed coin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2688" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T16:38:48.950" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T16:38:48.950" Title="When a card asks you to flip a coin is it against the rules to use a two headed coin?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17992" CreationDate="2014-06-25T00:14:30.800" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's of course against the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;705.3. A coin used in a flip must be a two-sided object with easily distinguished sides and equal likelihood that either side lands face up. If the coin that’s being flipped doesn’t have an obvious “heads” or “tails,” designate one side to be “heads,” and the other side to be “tails.” Other methods of randomization may be substituted for flipping a coin as long as there are two possible outcomes of equal likelihood and all players agree to the substitution. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it's illegal, and you can most definitely get a penalty, presumably something severe for cheating (as Hao Ye points out in the comments). You could get disqualified for cheating just for deliberately miscounting damage to your advantage. Rigging a coin toss is pretty blatant and disrespectful, and I can't imagine judges (or anyone else in the room) having much sympathy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even if the rules somehow had a loophole allowing it, this would of course be incredibly poor sportsmanship in a tournament. Casual play isn't the only time you should respect the people you play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T03:06:25.720" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T03:06:25.720" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17957" CreationDate="2014-06-25T01:27:23.133" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this principle even true? Consider the following game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A, B, and C, are dividing $60. All players left standing at the end of the game receive an equal split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player may shoot one other player. If a player gets shot twice, that player can no longer participate in the split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, C has the option to shoot another player, and then (after the first shots resolve) shoot both other players twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the optimal strategy for C is to take the second option, but then the optimal strategy for A and B is to both shoot C (if they don't, they will get nothing). This means that if all players act rationally, A and B will get $30 each and C will get $0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, C having more options leads to a worse result for C. So the theory isn't even true, which I think is decent evidence that it doesn't have a name, especially given that nobody else who's come here so far has heard of it. :-P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7886" LastEditorUserId="7886" LastEditDate="2014-06-25T01:32:26.713" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T01:32:26.713" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17996" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-25T14:47:20.483" Score="1" ViewCount="692" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to put together a runner deck that takes advantage of &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tinkering&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04108&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paintbrush&lt;/a&gt;. I'm also considering cards that care about ICE or breaker sub-types, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03028&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kit&lt;/a&gt; for my identity, or supporting cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lockpick&lt;/a&gt;. After looking over some corp decks on &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NetrunnerDB&lt;/a&gt; and seeing the quantities of different types of ICE, and keeping in mind click management, I'm trying to decide if my primary breaker should be a decoder or a different sub-type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in general, do corp decks tend to have a bias towards a particular sub-type of ICE?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expected answers do not have to be exhaustive and can be as detailed as you want. At a high level, I'm hoping to discover which ICE sub-type is more numerous in corp decks. Do sentries tend to outnumber barriers or code gates? Or, can you expect an even distribution of sub-types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some detailed information could break things down based the corporation or even the type of deck itself (such as NBN fast advance or Jenteki flatline), if available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastEditorUserId="7531" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T21:55:04.993" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T12:26:56.653" Title="In Android: Netrunner, is there a bias towards a particular sub-type of ICE in corp decks?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="17998" CreationDate="2014-06-25T19:17:18.753" Score="10" ViewCount="20579" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Scenario&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pandemic's excess card rule states that if you have more than 7 cards in your hand &lt;em&gt;at any time&lt;/em&gt;, you must discard the excess (according to your preference, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you're the Scientist, have 5 city cards and 2 special cards (like the airlift, or research center build card). The Researcher comes to town and gives you the remaining 1 color city card that will allow you to cure a disease as soon as you get to a research facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also say there's only two players (Researcher and Scientist). And that this is the last color that needs to be cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This takes you to 8 cards - over the amount allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Question&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When do I, as the Scientist, need to play / discard my excess cards (in this case, let's take the two special cards as the ones to play) so I am not in violation of the excess card rule, but also so I maximize the value of the Researcher's endowment of city cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sub&gt;edited to reflect the limit of 7 vs 8, as noted by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2602/gendoikari&quot;&gt;Gendolkari&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T04:37:33.967" Title="In Pandemic, when does the discard-over-7-cards rule take effect?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="17998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17997" CreationDate="2014-06-25T19:29:52.503" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, note that the hand limit is &lt;strong&gt;7&lt;/strong&gt; cards, NOT 8 cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot hold more than 7 cards in your hand for any length of time. This means that while you are holding 7 cards, the researcher cannot give you 2 cards. Actions are one at a time, so first the researcher would give you a card, at which point you would be over the limit. Before any other action is taken, you must discard down to the hand limit. Once you are at 7 again, the researcher can give you another card now, at which point you will need to discard again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can play special event cards instead of discarding&lt;/strong&gt;, however. So the answer to your question is that you need to play/discard your excess cards immediately, before any other action is taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you ever have more than 7 cards in hand (after first resolving any &#xA;  Epidemic cards you may have drawn), discard cards or play Event cards &#xA;  until you have 7 cards in hand (see Event Cards on page 7).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and under the Share Knowledge action details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the player who gets the card now has more than 7 cards, that player must &#xA;  immediately discard a card or play an Event card (see Event Cards on page 7).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2358" LastEditDate="2020-04-17T04:37:33.967" LastActivityDate="2020-04-17T04:37:33.967" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2014-06-25T23:30:33.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a grand total of one game of this, so this is not a particularly definitive answer, but I'd say that it is situational and would require a particular kind of deck to support it. It's all a question of whether one Action &lt;em&gt;now&lt;/em&gt; is worth potentially many Actions &lt;em&gt;later&lt;/em&gt;, and whether you expect to be facing multiple Troublemakers at that problem. Of course you don't know how many Troublemakers your opponent will try to throw at you, so either it's a problem that you want to be facing often, or it's a problem where you're going to play your own Villain and then defeat them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-06-25T23:30:33.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-26T03:46:54.683" Score="5" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;p&gt;Situation: My opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dictate%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Dictate of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; out (&amp;quot;Whenever a creature you control dies, each opponent sacrifices a creature.&amp;quot;).  He then attacks me with one of his creatures; I defend, killing his creature, but then I have to sacrifice a creature in response due to the enchantment.  I name &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undercity%20Informer&quot;&gt;Undercity Informer&lt;/a&gt; as the creature I will sacrifice.  In response to having to sacrifice him, I use his ability, pay 1, and sacrifice target creature (I chose Undercity Informer), and target opponent reveals cards from his/her library till they reveal a land and put all cards revealed into the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this then mean I have escaped the cost of Dictate of Erebos as when the stack now unfolds Undercity Informer is sacrificed and his ability works and the creature to be sacrificed has already been sacrificed, so therefore cannot be sacrificed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I then pick a new creature to sacrifice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7713" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T13:09:37.700" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:11:03.660" Title="Dictate of Erebos and Undercity Informer stack question" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18003" CreationDate="2014-06-26T04:40:35.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way this can work is if Undercity Informer is your &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; creature.  When Dictate of Erebos's ability triggers, the choice of which creature you'll be sacrificing isn't made until the ability actually resolves; you cannot choose which creature to sacrifice and then &amp;quot;respond to&amp;quot; the choice with other abilities.  &lt;em&gt;Before&lt;/em&gt; the Dictate's ability resolves, you can activate Undercity Informer's ability as normal and sacrifice it to itself to mill an opponent (Side note: The creature sacrificed to pay the Informer's cost is not targeted; it's just chosen.  This matters for things like shroud and protection.), but then after that you'll still have to sacrifice (another) creature to the Dictate.  The only ways to avoid a sacrifice are to have no creatures to sacrifice when the ability resolves or to control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tajuru%20Preserver&quot;&gt;Tajuru Preserver&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sigarda%2C%20Host%20of%20Herons&quot;&gt;Sigarda, Host of Herons&lt;/a&gt;, but in the latter case there's no pressing need to activate the Informer's ability early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T22:56:36.513" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T22:56:36.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18003" CreationDate="2014-06-26T05:54:15.093" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must pick another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dictate's ability does not target, so the creature to sacrifice is chosen on resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you self-sacrifice the Informer in response to Dictate's ability, then it won't exist when the Dictate's ability resolves, so it won't be a valid pick for the Dictate's ability. You'll have to sacrifice a creature among the other ones you have (if any) when the Dictate's ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wait for the Dictate's ability to resolve before doing anything, the Informer will no longer exist for you to activate its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Dictate's ability targeted, the choice of creature to sacrifice would be made when the ability is placed on the stack, meaning you get a chance to respond after the choice is made. If the creature no longer exists when the ability is about to resolve (e.g. because you self-sacrificed it), the ability fizzles and you wouldn't have to sacrifice anything more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T14:09:15.020" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T14:09:15.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18016" CreationDate="2014-06-26T11:44:23.890" Score="2" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen that its rules exist, but not in which book or web supplement to find them. Where can I find them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:01:56.970" Title="Where can I find the rules for the Roc Pattern Storm Eagle?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18003" CreationDate="2014-06-26T15:04:40.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even at Competitive REL, you should have been locked into this one from the beginning. The same would occur at Regular REL (Friday Night Magic), but judges at Regular can be a little lax on letting people take back their choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moment you named a creature, you declared your intent to let the trigger from Dictate of Erebos resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should immediately follow through with its resolution and sacrifice a creature. You will not have a chance to make other choices until after the spell has resolved. In other words, you should never have even had the opportunity to activate Undercity Informer before the trigger resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do I know this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Personal Experience&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Foundry%20Champion&quot;&gt;Foundry Champion&lt;/a&gt; at a Pro Tour Qualifier sealed event in Dallas/Fort Worth. My opponent asked who I was targeting with the enter the battlefield trigger. I chose a creature. He then tried to counter my Foundry Champion. I called a judge, and the judge ruled that because my opponent prompted me to make a choice that could only be made after the creature had entered the battlefield, and because I made the choice, that he had declared his intent to let the creature enter and I had accepted. Therefore, it could not be countered, the triggered ability sits on the stack, and my opponent has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/shortcuts-understand-philosophy-pg-section-51-2007-11-09&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article by Scott Marshall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this. It will not only improve your game, but it will make you a better communicator and therefore more fun to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most situations involving shortcuts are judged by who has what to gain from making ambiguous choices. In your case, the state of the game was ambiguous. You thought you were making the choice before resolution. We assume that your opponent knows the rules, and thought you were making the choice during resolution. The ambiguity you created caused your opponent to give away information: he had nothing to do before resolution. Therefore, you cannot change your choice. You have gained information that you wouldn't normally have (however minor it may be), and so the game cannot be reverted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-31T16:11:03.660" LastActivityDate="2022-05-31T16:11:03.660" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18011" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:34:45.413" Score="4" ViewCount="2732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing MTG with a friend last night when we had a slight disagreement about the wording of some cards. Sometimes cards will be marked as having a special ability &quot;for each forest you control&quot; ... and other times cards will be worded as having a special ability &quot;for each forest in play&quot;. There is quite the difference in the wording between those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My belief is that when a card explicitly says &quot;for each forest you control&quot;  I thought they are actually talking about individual forest cards, not the mana produced from those forest cards but the actual number of forest cards. So if I had a forest with Wild-Growth enchantment attached to it (which gives an extra forest mana when it is tapped) even though it produces TWO mana when tapped, it is still counted as ONE forest that I control. Is that correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to play a card like &quot;Howl of the Nightpack&quot; which lets me place a two/two wolf creature token on the battlefield for &quot;each forest I control&quot; ... if I had a forest with wild-growth on it, would that allow me to put TWO wolf creatures down because it produces two mana, or ONE wolf creature down because it is only a single forest??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might be completely wrong which is fine but to me it seems like the words &quot;Forests-in-play&quot; means that the spell works with any forest-mana that has been generated by whatever means (un-tapping / re-tapping lands, wild-growth, etc). But that &quot;Forests you control&quot; means the literal number of forest-cards you have no matter what enchantments or untapping/retapping of those lands takes place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &quot;forests-in-play&quot; (or sometimes I read as &quot;X&quot; amount of mana) as allowing any extra special shenanigans the player might invoke to their lands to generate the final total of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has big implications for spells like Cabal Coffers and others that directly specify &quot;lands you control&quot; and not &quot;lands in play&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help point me to the section in the rule-book that addresses this? Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7640" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T06:37:55.510" Title="Forests you control vs Forests in play" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18009" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:42:20.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as &quot;Forest mana&quot;. Forest has only 2 meanings in MTG, it is a basic land type, and it is the name of a card. A card with the land type &quot;Forest&quot; (such as the Forest card), can be tapped for 1 green mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both &quot;Forests in play&quot; and &quot;Forests you control&quot; refer to cards (or tokens) with the type &quot;Forest&quot; that are on the battlefield. The only difference between the 2 is that &quot;Forests in play&quot; refers to any Forest on the battlefield, while &quot;Forests you control&quot; refers to only the Forests that you control (you being the person controlling the effect in question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_Magic_Basic_Rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot;&gt;basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To do just about anything else in the game, you first &#xA;  need to be able to make mana. Think of mana as Magic &#xA;  money—it’s what you use to pay most costs. Each mana &#xA;  is either one of the five Magic colors or is colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where does mana come from? Nearly every land in the &#xA;  game has an ability that produces mana. Basic lands just &#xA;  have a large mana symbol in their text boxes to show &#xA;  this—you can tap one of them to add one mana of that &#xA;  color to your mana pool. (Your mana pool is where mana &#xA;  is stored until you spend it.) Other lands, as well as some &#xA;  creatures, artifacts, and spells, may also make mana. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T16:42:20.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18009" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:43:59.133" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cards refer to &amp;quot;forests,&amp;quot; they are always referring to the &lt;strong&gt;land cards&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;not to the mana&lt;/strong&gt; they produce; when referring to mana, they specifically say &amp;quot;mana&amp;quot; or use the appropriate mana symbol (including X where necessary to be abstract).  That means that in both cases, it is referring to the principle you are thinking about in your first statement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, contrast the wording on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dungrove%20Elder&quot;&gt;Dungrove Elder&lt;/a&gt; with that on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omnath%2C%20Locus%20of%20Mana&quot;&gt;Omnath, Locus of Mana&lt;/a&gt;. One refers to &amp;quot;the number of Forests you control&amp;quot;, and the other refers to &amp;quot;each green mana in your mana pool&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between the phrasing &amp;quot;you control&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;in play&amp;quot; is the &lt;strong&gt;difference between controllers&lt;/strong&gt; - in the former, it only counts forest cards on your &amp;quot;side&amp;quot; of the board, where as in the latter, it refers to all forests controlled by all players, totaled up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T17:36:21.880" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T17:36:21.880" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18012" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:46:27.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One player takes the side of Colonel Ned McReady.&#xA;The other player plays with the outlaw gang led by Jack Colty.&#xA;Each player has its own deck of cards to play with and has its own goal to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Colty gang consists of 16 gang members.&#xA;The goal of Colonel McReady is to kill all 16 members before they reach the Mexican border.&#xA;The goal of Colty is to reach the Mexican border (with at least Jack Colty still alive, others are optional).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is played on 5 battlegrounds.&#xA;On each battleground, 2-4 rounds are played.&#xA;Both players play firepower cards to determine who wins the shootout per round.&#xA;Other cards allow certain actions (directly killing a gang member, taking extra cards...) to be performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game usually takes around 45 minutes to complete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastEditorUserId="5168" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T18:19:29.090" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:19:29.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18013" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:46:27.710" Score="0" Body="Revolver is a two-player card game situated in the Wild West." OwnerUserId="5168" LastEditorUserId="5168" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T21:08:14.013" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T21:08:14.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18014" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:53:06.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You want your love letters to be delivered to the princess to make her love you.&#xA;Each round, one player gets to deliver his/her love letter to the princess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the round, every player gets one card.&#xA;One by one, the players take their turns of taking a second card and playing one of the two cards in their hand.&#xA;The player that has the card with the highest number at the end of the round, wins the round.&#xA;But beware, each card has a certain action that is performed when played, so you could be rejected before the round ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Love letter allows 2-4 players and takes around 20 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastEditorUserId="5168" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T16:55:10.650" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T16:55:10.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18015" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-06-26T16:53:06.743" Score="0" Body="A quick and easy game where you try to win the love of the princess." OwnerUserId="5168" LastEditorUserId="5168" LastEditDate="2014-06-26T18:19:36.610" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:19:36.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18007" CreationDate="2014-06-26T18:01:56.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for the Roc Pattern are in &lt;em&gt;Imperial Armour Volume 12 - The Fall of Orpheus&lt;/em&gt;, from Forge World, p.151.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can just about see this from the scanned table of contents (2nd image) on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-40000/Imperial_Armour_Books/IMPERIAL_ARMOUR_VOLUME_TWELVE_THE_FALL_OF_ORPHEUS.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FW page for the book&lt;/a&gt;. It's also &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Storm_Eagle#Sources&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;referenced on the 40K Wiki&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:01:56.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16729" CreationDate="2014-06-26T18:43:55.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talents are not ongoing; they're available for use once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that said, the moved minion doesn't move back once the turn is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastActivityDate="2014-06-26T18:43:55.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17996" CreationDate="2014-06-27T12:18:06.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll answer the question of &quot;are particular corporations more inclined to use certain types of ICE&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer?  Kind of.  If you look at the whole list of ICE and where the 'good' ones are, you'll get a sense of what each corporation likes to use to stop a runner from getting in.  Just to be sure, each corporation has one of each type of the basic three ICE (Barrier, Code Gate, Sentry).  And, while some of the corporations have different 'affinities' for one type or the other (such as Jinteki and NBN having more code gates then anyone, and Weyland having more Barriers), you'll see more paradigms then straight-out &quot;corporation X uses ICE type Y&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as Kit, will you want to use just Decoders?  Absolutely not.  Will you want to take good Decoders?  Absolutely yes.  You should use the best Decoder you can get your hands on as your main Icebreaker, and have copies of the other types for when there are more ICE on the server (consider Omega, if you can get it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T18:46:49.360" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T18:46:49.360" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T15:42:01.193" Score="3" ViewCount="1356" Body="&lt;p&gt;Situation: A squad of (jet)bikes has several Markerlights on them. The tau player is about to shoot at them with some Plasma or other weapon w/ low enough AP to punch their armor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Tau player have to declare Markerlight usage before Bike player Jinks? Or do the Bikes have to declare Jink before finding out whether the Tau player is going to use the Markerlights to ignore cover?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am ONLY concerned with 7th Edition rules. 6th Edition was clear cut as Jink was automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ETA:&#xA;Jink (7th Edition):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a unit with any models with the jink special rule is selected as&#xA;  a target for a shooting attack, you may declare that it will jink. the&#xA;  decision must be made before any of the to hit rolls have been made.&#xA;  If the unit jinks all models in the unit with this special rule gain a&#xA;  4+ cover save until the start of their next movement phase, but they&#xA;  can only fire snap shots until the end of their next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-12T21:54:33.437" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T12:08:26.267" Title="Which has to be declared first: Marklights or Jink?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-27T15:54:40.063" Score="4" ViewCount="8276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware those guys have such a database, but I couldn't find any way to download it. Not even access it by an API. Is there any one of those available for download?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7900" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:49:39.277" Title="Is there any complete downloadable Pokémon TCG text database?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18022" CreationDate="2014-06-27T16:13:53.570" Score="8" ViewCount="1357" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has been playing a sliver commander deck and uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Root%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Root Sliver&lt;/a&gt; which is a thorn in the side of my control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say I have an instant in my had that can destroy the Root Sliver and a counter creature card that I may want to use on the next sliver (and the mana to do both). I can't cast it while Root Sliver is still on the stack as it is not on the battlefield yet so I cannot target it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it after the stack resolves however my opponent regains priority meaning they can put their next sliver spell on the empty stack before I have a chance to play my card to destroy the Root Sliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was originally thinking I could put both the counter and the destroy in the stack but the counter would have to go on first so that it would resolve after the destroy, but since before the destroy resolves the sliver on the stack is not a valid target for the counter so this move is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to kill the Root Sliver in time to counter the next sliver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="1328" LastEditDate="2014-06-27T19:54:00.493" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T19:54:00.493" Title="When is my earliest opportunity to destroy a creature I couldn't counter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|mtg-priority|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18021" CreationDate="2014-06-27T16:24:27.703" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent gets to put their silver on the stack first. However, you can then add your incinerate to the stack, targetting their Root Silver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incinerate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Sliver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then pass so the Incinerate resolves, destroying the Root Sliver. Stack is now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Sliver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you cast your counterspell so the stack is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counterspell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Sliver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your counterspell resolves, and the New Sliver is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-06-27T16:24:27.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22837" CreationDate="2014-06-27T19:58:59.603" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a rules clarification for &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/dice/chupacabra/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chupacabra: Survive the Night&lt;/a&gt;&quot; by Steve Jackson Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sjgames.com/dice/chupacabra/img/chupacabra_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any player who loses all his dice is out of the game, even if he hasn't attacked yet on that round!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player rolls a combination of herds and at least one Chupacabra and all of their herds are taken are they eliminated? They still have at least one dice because of the Chupacabra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The clause stating &quot;even if they haven't attacked&quot; seems to allow for them to have Chupacabras and still be eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6650" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:52:54.703" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T22:23:39.570" Title="Elimination when a player loses all herds, but still has a Chupacabra" Tags="|chupacabra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-28T03:02:21.927" Score="1" ViewCount="1554" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a 4 way standard multiplayer match. One player had 3/3 on the field, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dictate%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Dictate of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control dies, each opponent sacrifices a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attacked him with two creatures. He blocked one with the 3/3, which died, and my remaining creature still dealt enough damage to his life to kill him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question we have is whether or not the player dies and thus is removed from the game before Dictate of Erebos's ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7764" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T18:22:52.450" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T18:22:52.450" Title="In multiplayer, does Dictate of Erebos still take effect if the combat that kills its owner's creature defeats the owner?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18024" CreationDate="2014-06-28T04:20:00.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player loses as soon as state-based actions are checked after dealing combat damage (essentially, &amp;quot;immediately&amp;quot; after damage is dealt) and leaves the game at the same time.  By rule 116.5, state-based actions are applied before triggered abilities are put on the stack, and rule 800.4d prevents triggered abilities controlled by players who have left the game from going on the stack, and so the ability will never even get a chance to resolve and no one will have to sacrifice a creature.  (Even if the triggered ability did go on the stack first, it would then cease to exist due to its controller leaving the game, as specified in 800.4a.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3b If a player’s life total is 0 or less, he or she loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.5. If a player loses the game, he or she leaves the game. If the game is a draw for a player, he or she leaves the game. The multiplayer rules handle what happens when a player leaves the game; see rule 800.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.5. Each time a player would get priority, the game first performs all applicable state-based actions as a single event (see rule 704, &amp;quot;State-Based Actions&amp;quot;), then repeats this process until no state-based actions are performed. Then triggered abilities are put on the stack (see rule 603, &amp;quot;Handling Triggered Abilities&amp;quot;). These steps repeat in order until no further state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the player who would have received priority does so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4a When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4d If an object that would be owned by a player who has left the game would be created in any zone, it isn’t created. If a triggered ability that would be controlled by a player who has left the game would be put onto the stack, it isn’t put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T04:55:15.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4680" CreationDate="2014-06-28T08:53:43.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This week I made a card game prototyper, it converts your google docs or csv to printable cards. &lt;a href=&quot;http://card-game-prototyper.herokuapp.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://card-game-prototyper.herokuapp.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7907" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T08:53:43.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18027" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-28T15:41:06.993" Score="2" ViewCount="10924" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played Monopoly and was forced to sell hotels to pay my opponent. The problem was that the bank only had two houses left, so I was unable to sell hotels because there weren't enough houses to replace them with. I only wanted to sell the hotels because I didn't need any more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state the number of houses and hotels are finite, so what can I do in this situation: when there there is no way to sell hotels and replace with houses? Assume everything else was mortgaged and I had no money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7909" LastEditorUserId="675" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T16:01:12.393" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T09:48:03.577" Title="Monopoly hotel sell to pay debt to opponent" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-06-30T08:02:50.477" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2014-06-28T16:09:06.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; clearly state that houses and hotels are a finite resource: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BUILDING SHORTAGES: When the Bank has no houses to sell, players wishing to build must wait for some player to return or sell his/her houses to the Bank before building. If there are a limited number of houses and hotels available and two or more players wish to buy more than the Bank has, the houses or hotels must be sold at auction to the highest bidder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the rules for selling houses and hotels are clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Houses and hotels may be sold back to the Bank at any time for &lt;em&gt;one-half&lt;/em&gt; the price paid for them.&#xA;  All houses on one color-group must be sold one by one, evenly, in reverse of the manner in which they were erected.&#xA;  All hotels on one color-group may be sold at once, or they may be sold one &lt;em&gt;house&lt;/em&gt; at a time (one hotel equals five houses), evenly, in reverse of the manner in which they were erected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not clearly cover the situation you describe, but I think they implicitly force you into selling more than you need to cover your debts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, if there are only two houses left on the board, you would have to sell your hotels and houses in the reverse order you build them until there are enough house and hotel pieces available on the board to accurately reflect what you've done. In your case this means selling from a full set of hotels down to two houses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategically I'd recommend a different play. If the hotels are the only improvements you have on the entire board you're probably screwed anyway, but if not I'd consider selling houses you own on other properties first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T09:48:03.577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T09:48:03.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5178" CreationDate="2014-06-28T17:28:54.710" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that there isn't enough incentive to keep fighting for starting player, as you probably cant use the majority of your minor improvements in the early stages, and cant afford to waste valuable turns at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually adapt the family game rule of adding food to this action space each round, so you can either take the food or use a minor improvement when you take starting player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the starting player tends to change more often and make it a more balanced / interesting game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apologies that this post is not particularly related to your question, although stemmed from my friend the 'wood hogger'!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7910" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T17:28:54.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18027" CreationDate="2014-06-28T17:50:50.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hotels are complete &quot;units.&quot; They can be sold as such, or a player can receive houses as &quot;change,&quot; providing there are enough houses for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the most &quot;change&quot; you can receive is two houses. You have to sell one hotel outright, and the equivalent of four houses in each of the remaining two properties, putting one house on each of those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that this will allow you to pay off the debt, and you'll have a little bit left over. You can't buy any more houses until at least one is made available. You may unmortgage other property with what money you have left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another solution is to offer most or all of your mortgaged property in exchange for either cancellation of the debt (by the landlord), or to a third party for enough to pay the debt, or in &quot;chunks&quot; to third and fourth parties. (If it's a two way game, you're lost anyway). In a multiway game, people will have to worry about third parties, and that may give you some leverage to make a deal that will help them, more than it helps their opponents. On the other hand, if your hotels are the &quot;big threat&quot; in the game, others may be happy to see it disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future questions, it might be helpful to know which monopoly your hotels are on, what your other properties are, the number of other players, and their holdings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-06-28T22:28:43.360" LastActivityDate="2014-06-28T22:28:43.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18031" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-28T18:46:38.417" Score="0" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard that MTG vendors can have release events for expansion sets.  During these events, players can spend a relatively small amount (say, $20 bucks) and get a collection of cards from that set (enough to build a deck or two). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name for these value sets?  It seems like they're somewhere between a booster pack and a booster box in size. Can they only be purchased at release events? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:00:20.223" Title="What's the name of the type of expansion set &quot;packs&quot; that MTG players can buy at release events?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18031" CreationDate="2014-06-28T19:19:20.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The format of the pre-release and release party events is a tournament type called 'sealed deck' where you get 6 packs of cards to make a 40 card deck out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For recent sets wizards has been printing special &amp;quot;event packs&amp;quot; where one or two of the six boosters you get is custom tailored to a specific colour, colour combo, or deck archetype.  This is to make it easier for new players to build a half-decent deck, since looking at 6 totally random packs and figuring out which two or three colors are best takes some practiced skill!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes in a little box with a spindown d20 life counter also.  I think this is probably the product you're talking about.  Some event hosts will sell leftovers after the tournament.  As far as I know this doesn't violate any of their distribution agreements with WOTC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a description of the most recent one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160115045141/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/tcg/events.aspx?x=mtgcom/events/prerelease-facts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T17:00:20.223" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:00:20.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-28T23:46:34.423" Score="1" ViewCount="3108" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing a life gain deck and I find that if an opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Erebos%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Erebos, God of the Dead&lt;/a&gt; my deck is ruined because of its effect &amp;quot;your opponents can't gain life.&amp;quot; If I run &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aegis%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Aegis of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;, whose effect is &amp;quot;You have hexproof&amp;quot;, does that mean Erebos' ability is negated, or because it doesn't actually say &amp;quot;Target opponent can't gain life&amp;quot; Aegis' effect doesn't actually work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T23:27:06.943" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T23:27:06.943" Title="Will Aegis of the Gods negate my opponent's Erebos, God of the Dead for me?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18034" CreationDate="2014-06-29T00:03:24.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aegis of the Gods will have no effect. You still won't be able to gain life, for the exact reason you suspect. From the definition of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Hexproof&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hexproof&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.11c &amp;quot;Hexproof&amp;quot; on a player means &amp;quot;You can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Erebos' ability doesn't say 'target' anywhere, it doesn't target you, and Hexproof has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you can find a way to remove Erebos from the battlefield. Exiling is one way. Erebos can't be destroyed, since Gods have &lt;em&gt;Indestructible.&lt;/em&gt; Have you considered cars such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deicide&quot;&gt;Deicide&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Banishing%20Light&quot;&gt;Banishing Light&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T03:57:10.350" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T03:57:10.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18055" CreationDate="2014-06-29T01:08:58.667" Score="1" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to make a group of Vanguard Veterans who wield Power Swords, but since they are not on the sprue I will have to pilfer them from other boxed sets. But since the GW website is rather incomplete regardings sprues, I cannot really tell where I can find these things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I am looking for right-handed Power Swords for models in Power Armor, either consisting of one part or the hand/weapon + weapon arm combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastActivityDate="2017-11-08T15:53:33.877" Title="How many different right-handed Power Swords are there on the sprues of the Space Marines?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|miniatures|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10859" CreationDate="2014-06-29T14:57:28.590" Score="-9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is good to have a large deck because if someone had a decking deck you would lose instantly! It is also good to have a deck of 60 cards because you have a better chance to get your good card! This is my opinion! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7918" LastActivityDate="2014-06-29T14:57:28.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18043" CreationDate="2014-06-29T19:19:55.670" Score="3" ViewCount="973" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic On the brink we ran into a situation where both the black strain and bioterrorist purple strain were cured. At one point one of the players moved into a territory that had multiple black and purple cubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question, is it one action to remove all black and purple cubes because they are both cured or does it require one action each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7920" LastEditorUserId="7920" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T01:43:32.310" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T13:01:38.803" Title="In Pandemic: on the brink, can I remove multiple bioterrorist cubes at once for a cured strain?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18042" CreationDate="2014-06-30T01:36:31.723" Score="1" ViewCount="3615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Pokemon but not TCGs in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a Skrelp (Psychic Type) which has a Spit Poison ability (also Psychic Energy) that it used on Honedge which has a resistance -20 to Psychic Energy. The Spit Poison ability applies one stack of poison to the target. So does poison use the caster's or the caster's ability energy type or is it energy agnostic?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can poison be cast multiple times on the same target to create multiple stacks of poison?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7921" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T21:20:16.693" Title="What energy type does poison use and does it stack?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18041" CreationDate="2014-06-30T10:22:34.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BcAKn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokemon TCG is quite different than the game. There's no &quot;poison&quot; type like in the game. In TCG, poison is a status. So, even if the defending pokemon has psychic resistance, it doesn't cut the poison damage, even if the poison is afflicted by a psychic pokemon.*)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No it doesn't stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you to read the basic rulebook again, it's very clear on what poison do there. I learned almost everything from the rulebook. But, since I am an old pokemon player (last played 4-5 yrs ago), so I forgot what poison exactly do. But AFAIK, it damages the affected pokemon between turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*) This is different if Spit Poison has initial damage attached, for example, 30. So the initial damage will be 10 (30 original - 20 resistance), aside from the poison status damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T10:22:34.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18040" CreationDate="2014-06-30T13:01:38.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need 2 actions, 1 per color. The ability to treat a cured disease is described in the original rules, under the list of actions you can perform:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove 1 disease cube from the city you are in, placing it in the cube &#xA;  supply next to the board. If this disease color has been cured (see &#xA;  Discover a Cure below), remove all cubes &lt;strong&gt;of that color&lt;/strong&gt; from the city you &#xA;  are in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is 1 action to remove all cubes &quot;of that color&quot; if that color is cured. Unless On the Brink rules describe a special exception for bio-terrorist cubes, then this still applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T13:01:38.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18045" CreationDate="2014-06-30T16:35:58.837" Score="2" ViewCount="377" Body="&lt;p&gt;In today's bridge column, opener opened 1NT with (s)A94 (h)AQ97 (d)763 (c) AQJ. Responder had&#xA;s)KT (h)KJT863 (d)K52 (c)86. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At two different tables, both pairs got to 4H, but in different ways. At Table 1, responder bid directly to 4 hearts, played and made it. At Table 2 responder bid 4 diamonds (transfer), and opener bid 4 hearts, and was set by a diamond lead through responder's K52, and the K of clubs &quot;offside&quot; opener's AQJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the reason for transfer bids was to protect the opener when the responder had a weak hand. For instance, a responder might bid &quot;garbage Stayman&quot; with (s)xxx (h)xxxx (d)xxxxx (c) x. That is, zero hcp, and a clear desire to play in anything except clubs (or NT). Likewise, a responder might bid two diamonds (transfer) with &quot;nothing&quot; and an indifferent five card heart suit. Of course, a responder might also bid Stayman or a transfer, with 8-10 points, while needing help to determine the ultimate suit and level of the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the above example, the responder had 10 high card points and a six card suit, enough to bid (and play) game on his own. Why use a transfer in such a case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do some pairs play that only two level bids are transfers and higher bids are &quot;natural?&quot; Or do most transfer bidders keep the transfer mechanism even at the four (game) level? Put another way, does a transfer at the two level follow one convention and a transfer at the four level follow another convention?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T23:47:51.457" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T23:47:51.457" Title="How high do transfer bids (to 1NT) go?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18044" CreationDate="2014-06-30T19:25:12.213" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the original idea for Jacoby transfers may have been to make the strong hand the declarer (in the 1950s, when Jacoby played with his wife, he bid naturally but she used transfers over partner's 1NT opening so that he would play more hands; this sort of agreement is no longer permitted), that is not their primary benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary benefit of transfers is that it gives responder a second chance to make a call. Before transfers, responder to 1NT would bid 2H to play, and had to bid 3H game forcing; this left no room for invitational calls that also showed a major suit. Transfers allw responder to start describing many types of hands with a call at the 2 level, and free up 3-level bids to show other types of hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining 2-level (Jacoby) and 4-level (Texas) transfers, you can differentiate between the following types of hands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5+ in a major with no desire to play a game (1NT-2D-2H-Pass).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exactly 5 in a major with invitational values (1NT-2D-2H-2NT).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6+ in a major with invitational values (1NT-2D-2H-3H).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A balanced hand with a 5-card major and game forcing values (1NT-2D-2H-3NT; some pairs agree that this promises 5332 shape and others include some 5422 hands).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A more shapely hand with a 5-card major and game forcing values (e.g. 1NT-2D-2H-3C shows 5+ hearts and 4+ clubs).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A balanced hand with exactly 5 cards in a major and slam-invitational values (1NT-2D-2H-4NT).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6+ in a major with game forcing values but no interest in slam (1NT-4D-4H-Pass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6+ in a major with slam interest (1NT-2D-2H-4H).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6+ in a major, asking for key cards (1NT-4D-4H-4NT).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just the basic agreements with Jacoby and Texas transfers; with some discussion with your partner, you can also ask for key cards after showing a 5-card suit, show shortness (either to avoid 3NT with a gaping hole or to find a 29-hcp slam when the hands fit well), and show other useful hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the example that you mention, the pair using Texas transfers got unlucky -- making the 1NT opener the declarer gains far more often than not from an opening lead perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T19:44:01.883" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T19:44:01.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-06-30T21:28:20.803" Score="-6" ViewCount="1471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what I don't get.  I've played a lot of Hearts for many years - thousands of games I'm sure.  The number of times I've played a low heart, and the trick has gone 2H, 3H, 4H, 5H seems way out of probable reality.  But the number of times I've seen all four players play the any of the same value card (e.g. 6C, 6D, 6H, 6S) is once.  Why is the probability of 2H, 3H, 4H, 5H any lower than any 4 same value cards?  In my naiveté it seems that in both cases, the probability calls for 4 players to have a specific card at the same time. Can anyone explain it to me like a 4 year old?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7933" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-06-30T21:49:15.887" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T18:02:54.853" Title="A Couple of Hearts Probabilities" Tags="|probability|hearts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2014-06-30T22:47:34.327" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason H2,H3,H4,H5 is more likely than H6,S6,C6,D6 is simply the rules of the game. If a heart is led, it is mandatory to play a heart if possible, so most tricks contain four of the same suit, and a trick with one of each suit is extremely rare. When you add in the requirement for all four to be of the same rank, your second example is vanishingly improbable. This boils down to the fact that a card game is not a random selection of available cards (except when my partner is choosing an opening lead, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2014-06-30T22:47:34.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18051" CreationDate="2014-07-01T06:58:44.997" Score="1" ViewCount="977" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a deck which is built around &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Species%20Gorger&quot;&gt;Species Gorger&lt;/a&gt; and its ability to return creatures I control to my hand. In order to make my deck work as intended, I need a way to &amp;quot;turn off&amp;quot; or avoid SG's ability from time to time. I was wondering if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plaxcaster%20Frogling&quot;&gt;Plaxcaster Frogling&lt;/a&gt; could do the job. For the record, SG's ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, return a creature you control to its owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I control a Species Gorger and a Plaxcaster Frogling. The Gorger has a +1/+1 counter on it. At the beginning of my upkeep, I have to return a creature I control to my hand. If I choose the Gorger to be returned, and use the Plaxcaster's activated ability to make sure the Gorger doesn't leave the battlefield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the Gorgers triggered ability be neutralized? or,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the Gorger just look for another creature to send to my hand, since I have chosen an invalid creature to send to my hand in the first place? After all, it says return &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; creature you control to your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it dosn't say &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; creature, I'm not sure if the Plaxcaster would have to use its ability on all creatures on my battlefield, that I don't want to return to my hand, or if it is enough to &amp;quot;protect&amp;quot; the one creature that was originally chosen for the Gorger to send to my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T08:20:15.300" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T18:26:06.227" Title="Can I use Plaxcaster Frogling to temporarily shut off Species Gorger's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18050" CreationDate="2014-07-01T07:42:34.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Species%20Gorger&quot;&gt;Species Gorger&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability does not target. Abilities that target use the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;. As such, it does not interact with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plaxcaster%20Frogling&quot;&gt;Plaxcaster Frogling&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability or any other shroud effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, because the triggered ability does not target, you make the choice of which creature to return while the ability is resolving (which means the choice can't be responded to in any way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T18:26:06.227" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T18:26:06.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16812" CreationDate="2014-07-01T09:19:30.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should better keep that bid (3 diamonds) for splinter (ie club fit and singleton or void in diamonds).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question you should answer is: &quot;What does 2d mean?&quot;. It should promise 6-card diamonds but: Some play that it's weak (0-5HCP), some others (including myself) play that it's invitational (9-11), some others play that it's strong (13+) and finally some play it as really strong (16+).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play that 2d is invitational and your holding is AQJxxxx or AKxxxxx then I would try 2d (especially in IMPs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most logic approach however is to bid 1d, and then 2d and then 3d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T09:19:30.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18060" CreationDate="2014-07-01T10:42:05.443" Score="8" ViewCount="4133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards in magic has something happen &lt;em&gt;for each {something}&lt;/em&gt;. For instance: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369041&amp;amp;part=Alive&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alive // Well&lt;/a&gt; makes you gain 2 life for each creature you control. Tapping &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382357&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Selvala&lt;/a&gt; adds one green mana to your mana pool, and you gain 1 life for each non-land card revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this life gained: all at once or &quot;one bit&quot; at a time? Say I tap Selvala and 1 land, and 2 non-lands are revealed: do I gain 2 life, or do I gain 1 life two times? Would &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376241&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ajani's Pridemate&lt;/a&gt; have one or two +1/+1 counters placed on it if I had it in play at that point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T12:50:11.837" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T11:47:53.597" Title="How does the wording &quot;for each&quot; work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2014-07-01T11:28:39.093" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes because he is responsible to announce when any player(s) have fulfilled the winning conditions now. So he has to know what the winning conditions are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7558" LastEditorUserId="7558" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T12:10:04.340" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T12:10:04.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18036" CreationDate="2014-07-01T12:49:52.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, I have done some more research, asked around and I have come to the following conclusion regarding the Power Weapons on the sprues of the regular Space Marines. Some are entire arms, others are just hands. Likewise some weapons have one bladed edge, the others two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tactical Marines Squad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed double-bladed Power Sword, hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assault Marines Squad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed double-bladed Power Sword, arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed single-bladed Power Axe, arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: on the older sprues these are both right-handed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Devastator Marines Squad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed double-bladed Power Sword, hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed single-bladed Power Axe, hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: this is on the sprues of the new boxed set)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vanguard Veterans&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 right-handed single-bladed Power Sword, hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 right-handed single-bladed Power Axe, hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Command Squad&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed double-bladed Power Sword, arm. Note that this one is intended for the Company Champion, not for the Sergeant as is usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Space Marine Commander&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 left-handed double-bladed Power Sword, arm.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastEditorUserId="7893" LastEditDate="2017-11-06T13:07:17.900" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T13:07:17.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18053" CreationDate="2014-07-01T13:41:46.970" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I said in the comments, I can't find any rules that specify it but according to this similar example here &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/content/forum-topic/3767486&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://community.wizards.com/content/forum-topic/3767486&lt;/a&gt; it would only be one event. In the example it was actually two because of the wording of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20Burst&quot;&gt;Life Burst&lt;/a&gt;, but the second instance on that card has also a &amp;quot;for each&amp;quot; wording that would only trigger one event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T13:41:46.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11986" CreationDate="2014-07-01T13:57:50.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could also check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://customizedplayingcards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Customized Playing Cards&lt;/a&gt; I had them make me a custom card game that came out amazingly. The paper quality they used was 310 GSM which is what bicycle playing cards uses. Honestly the customer service alone will make me be a repeat customer. There was a small hiccup in the very beginning but it was quickly resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7939" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T13:57:50.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-01T17:57:39.330" Score="2" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a situation where outbreaks chain into other cities, how can I manage cube placement so that I know which cities I've resolved? If I just place the cubes into the city, it's easy to lose track of which cities still need cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T08:44:56.807" Title="How can I keep track of which outbreaks I've resolved?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18053" CreationDate="2014-07-01T18:16:43.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;How is this life gained: all at once or &amp;quot;one bit&amp;quot; at a time?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Count the verbs.&lt;/strong&gt; There is only one instruction to gain life, so all the life is gained simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2e Some spells and abilities have multiple steps or actions, denoted by separate sentences or clauses, that involve multiple players. In these cases, the choices for the first action are made in APNAP order, and then the first action is processed simultaneously. Then the choices for the second action are made in APNAP order, and then &lt;strong&gt;that action is processed simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;, and so on. See rule 101.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20Burst&quot;&gt;Life Burst&lt;/a&gt; has two instructions to gain life (two verbs), so there would be two life gain events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would Ajani's Pridemate have one or two +1/+1 counters placed on it if I had it in play at that point?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since all life is gained simultaneously and it all came from the same source, there is only one life gain event, so it would only trigger once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you simultaneously gained life from multiple sources, that would count as multiple life gains events, and the ability would trigger multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;118.9. Some triggered abilities are written, &amp;quot;Whenever [a player] gains life, . . . .&amp;quot; Such abilities are treated as though they are written, &amp;quot;Whenever a source causes [a player] to gain life, . . . .&amp;quot; If a player gains 0 life, no life gain event has occurred, and these abilities won’t trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That applies very narrowly to life gain. It doesn't apply to taking damage. For example, if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Reckoner&quot;&gt;Boros Reckoner&lt;/a&gt; is simultaneously dealt damage from two sources, its ability will only trigger once. It would need the wording of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nested%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Nested Ghoul&lt;/a&gt;'s ability to be triggered twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T23:51:52.270" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T23:51:52.270" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18065" CreationDate="2014-07-01T20:21:50.370" Score="2" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pandemonium&quot;&gt;Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment that says &amp;quot;Whenever a creature enters the battlefield, that creature's controller may have it deal damage equal to its power to target creature or player of his or her choice.&amp;quot;  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Muscle Sliver&lt;/a&gt; is a 1/1 creature that gives all Slivers (itself included) +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have no other Slivers in play, does Pandemonium do 1 point of damage or 2 points of damage when Muscle Sliver comes into play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T01:06:48.290" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T13:03:05.233" Title="Pandemonium and Muscle Sliver" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18062" CreationDate="2014-07-01T20:37:48.653" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Muscle Sliver will deal &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; damage to a creature or player due to Pandemonium's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pandemonium's ability is a triggered ability that triggers when a creature enters the battlefield. So when Muscle Sliver enters the battlefield, the triggered ability is put on the stack and you choose what creature or player to target. At this point Muscle Sliver is already in play, so its power is 2 due to its own static ability. Then the triggered ability resolves, and Muscle Sliver deals 2 damage to the ability's target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-01T21:44:25.240" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T21:44:25.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18059" CreationDate="2014-07-01T22:01:13.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first outbreak is easy to track, because it is the green card that you are currently resolving.  It is very rare for outbreaks to chain more than 2 deep, but if you find yourself in that situation, you could use a cube of a color that the city is not adjacent to and place it in the city to temporarily mark that you have already resolved outbreaks there this turn.  Just remember to pick those &quot;wrong color&quot; cubes up afterwards, or you will be shorting your supply.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-07-01T22:01:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18062" CreationDate="2014-07-01T22:13:10.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pandemonium's triggered ability checks the power of the creature when it &lt;em&gt;resolves&lt;/em&gt;, not when it &lt;em&gt;triggers&lt;/em&gt;. A ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=108862&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt; says the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability does not check the creature's power until the ability resolves. If the creature is not on the battlefield when the ability resolves, it does damage equal to the power of the creature right before it left the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time the ability resolves, Muscle Sliver is already on the battlefield, and his power is being modified by his own ability. You may have it deal 2 points of damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Still not convinced?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are cases when a creature's power is checked when an ability triggers &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; when it resolves. To illustrate this, consider the case where we play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Muscle Sliver&lt;/a&gt; when we already have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Experiment%20One&quot;&gt;Experiment One&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. Will Muscle Sliver trigger evolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes. This is because of rule 611.3c (although it is mentioned in a few places).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3c Continuous effects that modify characteristics of permanents do so simultaneously with the  permanent entering the battlefield. They don’t wait until the permanent is on the battlefield and then change it. Because such effects apply as the permanent enters the battlefield, they are applied before determining whether the permanent will cause an ability to trigger when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T13:03:05.233" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T13:03:05.233" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18053" CreationDate="2014-07-01T23:59:31.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I contacted Wizard's MtG APAC Support last night. The response confirmed what we suspect: only one life gain occurs, but they didn't know any &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt; ruling about this either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/18060/5573&quot;&gt;Ikegami's answer&lt;/a&gt; very soundly conveys the rules basis for it working this way, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For posterity, and for some level of official confirmation, here's the response from support:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Riot Control activates the life gain triggers as a single event meaning that Archangle of Thune will only activate once. So in the situation that you provided, when you cast Riot Control the following will happen: You will gain 3 life and each of your creatures will receive a single (1) +1/+1 counter. Now if the card was Ageless Entity that states: &amp;quot;Whenever you gain life, put that many +1/+1 counters on Ageless Entity.&amp;quot; you would be putting three (3) +1/+1 counters on Ageless Entity since you would have gained that much life through Riot Control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid that there isn't a specific ruling that would fit here, but the wording of the card itself describes what will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Ed: courtesies and administrative stuff omitted)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— Eric M.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Online Response Crew&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Wizards of the Coast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T13:17:52.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18636" CreationDate="2014-07-02T01:18:46.283" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Played my first game of Call of Cthulhu: The Card Game the other day and I was able to get 3 success tokens out of the 5 required from my first story due to the other player not having any characters on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played a character that had one investigator icon, which means he wins the investigation struggle and gets a success token, and then he wins another success token for having the most skill, and then the third for the story being unopposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Would you still get three tokens even though the character does not have an investigation icon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T11:06:04.517" Title="Is it possible to get 3 success markers on an unopposed story?" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18059" CreationDate="2014-07-02T08:44:56.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I normally place the 4th cube on top of a triangle of the three existing cubes in the infected city. Then, place a cube in all it's neighbours and move the outbreak meter up 1. Move the 4th cube off the stack of three and place it on the board (making a square) to show you've resolved that outbreak. Repeat for any other cities which just received a 4th cube (which is on top of the pile of 3). Once you have finished, remove all the 4th cubes which are on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T08:44:56.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18070" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-02T09:02:31.317" Score="10" ViewCount="2481" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multiple decades ago, I was introduced to a game as described in the title of this question.  What I can remember of it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The two rooks had different functions.  They were distinguished by placing one of them upside down.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One piece was called a &quot;retractor&quot;. It captured by moving to a square adjacent to the target piece, then moving away on a subsequent turn, unless the target moved first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another piece, called an &quot;immobilizer&quot;, prevented any adjacent opposing piece from moving.  Two adjacent opposing immobilizers could create a permanent mess.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yet another (whose name I forget) captured by moving to a position such that it, the king of its color, &amp;amp; the target formed a right triangle, with the king at the right-angle vertex.  There were both obvious &amp;amp; less obvious configurations that met this condition.  (E.g., the king could be in a &quot;knight's move&quot; direction from each of the other two.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I believe another piece could capture by jumping its target, checkers-style, though not necessarily diagonally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no recollection of how any of the pieces moved; nor, for that matter, what the object of the game was.  I would be grateful to anyone who can provide any further information, especially the name of the game, or any pointers to a complete set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7943" LastActivityDate="2018-09-09T04:00:47.977" Title="What is this game, played with chess board and pieces, but with totally different rules?" Tags="|house-rules|identify-this-game|chess|variants|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18073" CreationDate="2014-07-02T12:15:44.650" Score="2" ViewCount="24498" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was young I remember that it was usual to move 2 pawns one space each on your first move, instead of one pawn two spaces. (ie b3 and g3 at the same time). I'm not sure if the 2 pawns had to be mirrored or not, but moving the knight's pawns was the most usual move of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this ever legal? If not, would that be a major advantage to the player playing this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-11-23T19:17:01.400" LastActivityDate="2023-07-07T18:27:15.270" Title="Chess: Move 2 pawns one space each as first move" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18074" CreationDate="2014-07-02T14:03:18.353" Score="6" ViewCount="3308" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201236&quot;&gt;Tabernacle&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All creatures have &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, &lt;strong&gt;destroy&lt;/strong&gt; this&#xA;  creature unless you pay 1.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=pendrell%20mists&quot;&gt;Pendrell Mists&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All creatures have &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, &lt;strong&gt;sacrifice&lt;/strong&gt; this&#xA;  creature unless you pay 1.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So one says &quot;destroy&quot; and one says &quot;sacrifice&quot;. That seems surprising. If so then indestructible creatures would be immune to Tabernacle's effect whereas they would not be immune to Pendrell Mists effect. And similarly, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240033&quot;&gt;Sigarda, Host of Heron&lt;/a&gt; would protect you against Pendrell Mists whereas it wouldn't against Tabernacle of Pendrell Vale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this assessment correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T23:28:45.680" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T23:28:45.680" Title="Why are Tabernacle at Pendrell Vale and Pendrell Mists worded differently?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18071" CreationDate="2014-07-02T14:44:59.617" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was never legal. Rule 1.1. of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/component/handbook/?id=171&amp;amp;view=article&quot;&gt;FIDE rules&lt;/a&gt; clearly states that the moves have to alternate. This was probably more of a house rule. Of course you can advance a pawn two spaces on it's first move (Rule 3.7b). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T14:44:59.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18072" CreationDate="2014-07-02T14:48:36.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is completely correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indestructible and regeneration prevent/replace destruction but not sacrifices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sigarda prevents sacrifices but not destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T17:08:58.297" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T17:08:58.297" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18072" CreationDate="2014-07-02T15:49:37.530" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As to the implied question &quot;Why is the Tabernacle worded this way?&quot;: Because it's old. Card text templating wasn't always as refined as it is now, and will probably always be changing over time, so it's common to look at an older card and see some ways it would be obviously different if printed today. To the modern eye, any card instructing a player to destroy their own permanents would be a &quot;sacrifice&quot;, but that wasn't always the case. The Abyss is another example of an old card that would say &quot;sacrifice&quot; if it were printed in a modern set, but as printed allows you to pull shenanigans with untargetable, indestructible, or prot-black creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-07-02T17:59:29.757" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T17:59:29.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18071" CreationDate="2014-07-02T16:27:44.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fabian's answer makes it quite clear that this is not in the rules. For your followup, whether or not this is advantageous, the answer is the ever frustrating &quot;it depends&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most novice games are decided merely by who makes the biggest blunder first. In that regard this doesn't really do much. In fact, by exposing your line quicker, you might be doing yourself more harm than good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you advance past the novice levels, then this is a huge advantage. White &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First-move_advantage_in_chess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wins between 52% and 56% of the matches&lt;/a&gt;, where you would expect 50/50 otherwise. And that's just from being able to move first. Being able to interject a second move would push this even further. Even if black were able to counter with two opening moves of their own, clearly moving first is advantageous, so two first moves would be even more so, especially considering the opening moves for white are very often two pawns anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One plausible way to look at this rule is that perhaps black can move two pawns to try to fight the advantage received from white moving first. But that is pure speculation. The real way to test this counteract this kind of advantage is to play a match and alternate between black and white, or have the losing player be white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T16:29:42.927" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T16:29:42.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18070" CreationDate="2014-07-02T17:04:19.313" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a quick search for &quot;chess&quot; and &quot;immobilizer&quot; led me to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baroque_chess&quot;&gt;Baroque Chess&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-02T17:04:19.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18079" CreationDate="2014-07-03T01:23:47.163" Score="2" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantasmal%20Bear&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Bear&lt;/a&gt; says that if it becomes the target of a spell or ability that it must be sacrificed. If I played Phantasmal Bear and later in the game played a creature that gave all of my other blue creatures +1/+1, would the Bear still be sacrificed, even though the Bear wasn't 'targeted' specifically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7947" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-07-03T04:07:14.253" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T04:07:14.253" Title="Does Phantasmal Bear get sacrificed if its affected by spells or abilities that don't say 'target'?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18078" CreationDate="2014-07-03T01:51:48.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will not have to sacrifice it. See:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.9a&lt;/strong&gt; Just because an object or player is being affected by a spell or ability doesn't make that object or player a target of that spell or ability. Unless that object or player is identified by the word &quot;target&quot; in the text of that spell or ability, or the rule for that keyword ability, it's not a target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7371" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T01:51:48.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-07-03T17:09:23.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expansion packs 1-4 each include blank cards - 8 white cards and 4 black cards. The Bigger Blacker Box expansion (and box) contains 50 blank cards (10 black and 40 white). These blanks printed using the exact same process as all the other CAH cards, so they're virtually indistinguishable from the official cards. With a blank card, you just write on it with a marker (Sharpie) and you're done; just be sure to print nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that if you're going to &quot;erase&quot; cards for re-purposing, the expansions are quite a bit cheaper than the full game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T17:09:23.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18083" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:22:14.360" Score="3" ViewCount="3206" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &quot;Destroy all creatures with power 4 or greater&quot; also affect &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; creatures? I have a planeswalker card that has this ability; will it also kill my creatures? Also, this only affects creatures on the battlefield, not in players' hands, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T01:24:39.883" Title="Does &quot;Destroy all creatures with power 4 or greater&quot; also affect *my* creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18082" CreationDate="2014-07-03T20:36:15.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will destroy your creatures as well. Just read the card literally. There's nothing there to imply that your creatures would be excluded. As for players' hands, the word &quot;creature&quot; by default means &quot;a creature card or token on the battlefield.&quot; You cannot have a &quot;creature&quot; in your hand, you can only have a &quot;creature card&quot; in your hand. Finally, note that &quot;destroy&quot; would have no meaning when used on a card in your hand, it would have to say &quot;discard&quot; to remove a card from your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-03T20:36:15.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T03:44:05.580" Score="5" ViewCount="22782" Body="&lt;p&gt;Earlier tonight, I was playing magic. My opponent had a card out that allowed him to place a 2/2 goblin token on the board for every creature that made an attack. He also had one out that allowed him to sacrifice one of his creatures and destroy any nonland permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He declared an attack with one of the goblin tokens, thus placing another goblin token on the board. He then sacrificed the attacking token before it attacked and my blocker destroyed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the game, but it seems to me that if he sacrificed it prior to its attack, it shouldn't have counted as an attack. So he couldn't have placed the new token on the board. Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7953" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T04:26:15.973" LastActivityDate="2018-02-14T04:12:23.690" Title="Can you sacrifice a creature that's in the middle of an attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18085" CreationDate="2014-07-04T03:58:04.203" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent could have declared that token as an attacker, then sacrificed it before actual combat damage happened. It would have counted as &lt;em&gt;attacking&lt;/em&gt; &amp;mdash; at least until it was sacrificed &amp;mdash; but it wouldn't have actually done any combat damage to its blocker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combat phase works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Beginning of Combat Step&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Nothing has happened yet, but you're considered to be inside the combat phase. Players can cast spells and use abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers Step&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The active player may declare which of their creatures are attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Those attacking creatures get tapped. They're now considered to be &lt;em&gt;Attacking&lt;/em&gt; for the rest of the combat phase, even if something untaps them somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Players may now cast spells and use abilities before moving on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers Step&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The inactive player may declare which of their creatures are blocking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The inactive player assigns the blocking creatures among the attackers. These creatures are now considered &lt;em&gt;Blocking&lt;/em&gt; for the remainder of combat, even if something taps them somehow. Any attacker assigned a blocking creature is now considered &lt;em&gt;Blocked&lt;/em&gt; for the remainder of combat, even if its blocker disappears, and will not deal combat damage to you personally (unless it has trample, or something else that lets it do that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Players may now cast spells and use abilities &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt; before moving on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Combat damage happens.&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Any attacking creatures still alive and present at this point attack their blockers and/or the opposing player/planeswalker/etc.&#xA;  Nobody can cast spells during this process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Combat finishes, the board gets cleaned up (dead creatures removed, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the Goblin in question was given a blocker during the Declare Blockers step. At that point, the other player &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have the opportunity use an ability to sacrifice the goblin, and if the goblin is doomed to die, that's probably a good choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once combat damage happens, that sacrificed goblin won't be around anymore. You say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm new to the game, but it seems to me that if he sacrificed it prior to its attack, it shouldn't have counted as an attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will have counted as &lt;em&gt;attacking&lt;/em&gt;, but since it's dead by the combat damage step, it's gone and won't actually &lt;em&gt;be there&lt;/em&gt; to do anything. Your blocker won't take damage from the goblin, for instance - the goblin will be dead and gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There was a time in the past when you could cast spells and use abilities &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; combat damage, so that the goblin could deal combat damage &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; get sacrificed too, but that was &lt;em&gt;weird&lt;/em&gt; and got removed from the rules a few years ago in M10.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T07:02:13.310" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T07:02:13.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-04T05:33:02.003" Score="2" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;With M15 around the corner I need a standard card that has a similar effect as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Debt%20to%20the%20Deathless&quot;&gt;Debt to the Deathless&lt;/a&gt;. Does anyone know a white, black, or green standard set card that works like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T14:34:51.317" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T14:34:51.317" Title="Is there a Standard card similar to Debt to the Deathless?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-07-07T16:58:24.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18087" CreationDate="2014-07-04T06:54:37.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards from Theros, Born of the Gods, Journey into Nyx, and Magic 2015 (the sets that will be standard when Khans of Tarkir releases in September and whose contents are currently known) with abilities of the form &amp;quot;Each opponent loses &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; life.  You gain life equal to the life lost this way.&amp;quot; are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; — life loss equal to your devotion to black when it enters the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scholar%20of%20Athreos&quot;&gt;Scholar of Athreos&lt;/a&gt; — life loss of 1 via a 2B activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Servant%20of%20Tymaret&quot;&gt;Servant of Tymaret&lt;/a&gt; — life loss of 1 whenever it becomes untapped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tormented%20Hero&quot;&gt;Tormented Hero&lt;/a&gt; — life loss of 1 whenever you cast a spell that targets it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no cards with this mechanic in Magic 2015, unless you count &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/products/m15/sf0JdVsk2/EN_ffn1gmrc7a.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Covenant of Blood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T06:54:37.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18089" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18090" CreationDate="2014-07-04T12:07:41.963" Score="1" ViewCount="10782" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elspeth%2C%20Sun%27s%20Champion&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Sun&amp;#39;s Champion&lt;/a&gt; has a loyalty ability which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place three 1/1 white soldier creature tokens onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this ability is activated, do these soldiers have summoning sickness? I ask because Elspeth herself does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; have summoning sickness when placed onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T12:36:34.333" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T08:03:55.867" Title="Do creatures summoned by a Planeswalker have summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:22:01.423" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18089" CreationDate="2014-07-04T12:19:59.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they'll have summoning sickness. &lt;em&gt;Every&lt;/em&gt; creature experiences summoning sickness, without exception, unless something says it doesn't, such as having &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/702-keyword-abilities.html#rule-702-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Haste&lt;/a&gt;. Elspeth herself doesn't experience Summoning Sickness because she isn't a creature - she's a  planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example of a Planeswalker that places creatures which &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have Haste, see &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xenagos%2C%20the%20Reveler&quot;&gt;Xenagos, the Reveler&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness comes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/302-creatures.html#rule-302-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 302.6&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.6. A creatures activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost cant be activated unless the creature has been under its controllers control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature cant attack unless it has been under its controllers control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short: Summoning Sickness means a creature can't attack, or activate abilities with a tap or untap symbol in their cost, until they've been under your control since your untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a permanent on the battlefield is &lt;em&gt;turned into&lt;/em&gt; a creature — e.g. you transform your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; — it will suddenly start being affected by summoning sickness, if you haven't controlled that permanent since the beginning of your turn. For this reason, an alternate way to describe it is that &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; has summoning sickness, but it only &lt;em&gt;affects&lt;/em&gt; things if they're creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures affected by summoning sickness can still &lt;em&gt;be&lt;/em&gt; tapped by other things, though. You can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devout%20Invocation&quot;&gt;Devout Invocation&lt;/a&gt;, for instance, and tap a creature that you only just summoned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T08:03:55.867" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T08:03:55.867" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2014-07-04T13:14:22.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;hide flag with bombs, make decoy bombs so they think your flag is hidden somewhere else, hide 4/5/6's near the decoys to kill any 3's they use to defuse the bombs, don't waste all your 2's at the start of the game, you will need them later on, 2's are great for finding out which piece is the spy - AND TWOS KILL THE SPY- so then your 10 is safe so you can go rampaging around killing anything that they move&#xA;Finally they will be out if moving pieces and forced to surrender- you win!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7956" LastActivityDate="2014-07-04T13:14:22.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18092" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18115" CreationDate="2014-07-04T14:16:54.650" Score="11" ViewCount="6031" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had groups of 8, 10, and even 20+ to play Two Rooms and a Boom, and it was always a fantastic time. There was enough unknown information and things were hectic enough that things kept being interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I've also tried it with just 6 players, and the game felt really weak. There were few enough people that by the end everyone had correctly determined everyone else's role, so the game always ended up as essentially a Rock-Paper-Scissors match at the last second between the two team leaders, each trying to guess what the other would do for the last switch. With essentially no other unknowns, most players felt powerless and uninvested in the outcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of ways to play Two Rooms and a Boom, what with many character types and card burying, but I haven't spent the time trying them out. What extra rules, if any, help the game stay strong with less than 8 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T21:51:17.220" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T17:12:00.573" Title="Two Rooms and a Boom with few players" Tags="|two-rooms-and-a-boom|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18094" CreationDate="2014-07-04T21:40:10.460" Score="2" ViewCount="1612" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldly%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Worldly Tutor&lt;/a&gt; searches your library for a creature card. So could I find &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nylea%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Hunt&quot;&gt;Nylea, God of the Hunt&lt;/a&gt; with it since Nylea is an Enchantment Creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-04T22:38:01.507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T06:36:30.173" Title="Can one use a Wordly Tutor to fetch Nylea, God of the Hunt" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18093" CreationDate="2014-07-04T22:27:16.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nylea is always a Creature card (among other things) in your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter that Nylea isn't just a Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The type-changing ability that can make the God not be a creature functions only on the battlefield. It's always a creature card in other zones, regardless of your devotion to its color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ability was a characteristic-defining ability, it would function in all zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.3. Some static abilities are characteristic-defining abilities. A characteristic-defining ability conveys information about an object’s characteristics that would normally be found elsewhere on that object (such as in its mana cost, type line, or power/toughness box). Characteristic-defining abilities function in all zones. They also function outside the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's not a characteristic-defining ability because it fails criteria 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.3a A static ability is a characteristic-defining ability if it meets the following criteria: (1) It defines an object’s colors, subtypes, power, or toughness; (2) it is printed on the card it affects, it was granted to the token it affects by the effect that created the token, or it was acquired by the object it affects as the result of a copy effect or text-changing effect; (3) it does not directly affect the characteristics of any other objects; (4) it is not an ability that an object grants to itself; and (5) it does not set the values of such characteristics only if certain conditions are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-06T06:36:30.173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T06:36:30.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T10:56:52.083" Score="2" ViewCount="494" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of Planechase, suppose we're on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/extra/plane/planechase/horizon-boughs-gateway-promo.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Horizon Boughs&lt;/a&gt;, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All permanents untap during each player's untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380397&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deserter's Quarters&lt;/a&gt; out, tapped using its second ability to keep another creature tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may choose not to untap Deserter's Quarters during your untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{6}, {T}: Tap target creature. It doesn't untap during its controller's untap step for as long as Deserter's Quarters remains tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this mean I can choose not to untap Deserter's Quarters during the untap step, and keep the other creature tapped, or do both of them untap anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7764" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T15:01:52.070" Title="Does Deserter's Quarters get overriden by Horizon Boughs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18097" CreationDate="2014-07-05T11:56:45.553" Score="1" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=prophet%20of%20kruphix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may cast creature cards as if they had flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this apply to the Loyalty ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put three 1/1 white soldier creature tokens onto the battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;of the Planeswalker &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=elspeth%2C%20sun%27s%20champion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Sun's Champion&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T13:30:49.003" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T13:30:49.003" Title="Does Prophet of Kruphix apply to Planeswalker abilities that create creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18096" CreationDate="2014-07-05T12:38:09.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there's no overlap here at all, for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elspeth doesn't involve casting creature cards. What goes on there has nothing to do with the process of casting creature cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if it did, you don't have anything that lets you use Planeswalker loyalty abilities on other peoples' turns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting a creature card is the process you go through to put &lt;em&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/em&gt; on the battlefield in the first place:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You take it from your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay its costs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell goes on the stack. (It's a creature spell, because the card has the creature type.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the casting part. Hopefully, it doesn't get countered. When the spell resolves, the creature lands on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it's a little different: a card with Flashback (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Grudge&quot;&gt;Ancient Grudge&lt;/a&gt;) can be cast from your graveyard rather than your hand. A card with Cipher (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Paranoid%20Delusions&quot;&gt;Paranoid Delusions&lt;/a&gt;) has a free copy cast of it sometimes. But the process is still the same: the creature, or the spell, goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elspeth's ability isn't the same thing. It's a loyalty ability and it's that ability that goes on the stack. When it resolves, it puts some creature tokens on the battlefield. The ability is used, but a spell isn't cast. Also, the tokens may get represented by physical cards, but they're still tokens and don't count as cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T12:45:25.013" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T12:45:25.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18095" CreationDate="2014-07-05T14:51:15.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deserter's Quarters becomes next to useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burst%20of%20Energy&quot;&gt;Burst of Energy&lt;/a&gt; targeting your Deserter's Quarters, it would untap since it's not &lt;em&gt;your untap step&lt;/em&gt;. Same thing here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in Horizon Boughs, your Deserter's Quarters untaps in the other players' untap steps since you only have the option of not untapping him in &lt;em&gt;your untap step&lt;/em&gt;. (The creature held in Deserter's Quarters remains tapped.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the creature held in Deserter's Quarters untaps in your untap step since Deserter's Quarters only prevents it from untapping in &lt;em&gt;its controller's untap step&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Horizon%20Boughs&quot;&gt;Horizon Boughs&lt;/a&gt; makes &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380397&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deserter's Quarters&lt;/a&gt; really inefficient. At best, you could retap a creature every turn for 6 mana in a two-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-05T15:01:52.070" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T15:01:52.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5722" CreationDate="2014-07-05T16:58:55.807" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;I originally posted this question as a guest and am unable to select an answer, however, thanks to everyone who posted here, I have my answer and I'd like to share a little information with you all on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;World Wide Games of Colchester originally made the game. It was indeed called &quot;Fore Par&quot;, and it included wooden pucks with little rubber rings on the outside of them to help them bounce. It was a large, plain wooden board (the exact dimensions of which I am still trying to pin down) with pegs and recessed &quot;holes&quot;. At one time, the game sold brand new for $158.50. Here is an archived article from the NY Times that mentions the company and the game and cost, as well as other games made by WWG:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/1989/03/12/nyregion/from-adi-to-skittles-to-yoot-making-fun.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.nytimes.com/1989/03/12/nyregion/from-adi-to-skittles-to-yoot-making-fun.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some instances, Fore Par was included in a &quot;cabinet&quot; set of games you could purchase from World Wide Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v3amc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fore Par&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GGxGf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;World Wide Games Cabinet&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;World Wide Games was eventually purchased by S&amp;amp;S Worldwide. Sometime later, SSW would build a similar game known as &quot;Bumper Golf&quot;. I didn't recognize the game because of the graphics and I thought for sure they weren't the same game (since it didn't use coins), but since I found a picture of the original Fore Par, I've been corrected. In fact, looking closely at both of them side by side, you can see that the layouts are EXACTLY the same, the only difference being the starting point for the 4th hole is shifted slightly to a different position. (See photo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fl8jQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bumper Golf&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2baZy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Bumper Golf with Rubber-ringed Wooden Piece&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish I knew a little more history about the original Fore Par game, and a history of the company World Wide Games. Seems they cared about making a quality product that was used by many educational institutions (schools, YMCA's, etc). It makes perfect sense that I originally played this game as a child at my elementary school.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At my school, the wooden pieces were long gone, and the board had been played with coins for many years. So long that years of coin-impacts had worn away at the wooden sides and hazards at the best places to bounce the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7964" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T16:58:55.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16835" CreationDate="2014-07-05T19:02:56.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets have a look at the rules. In the combat phase, after resolving the attacks by encountered enemies, it is the players turn to attack with hers/his heroes and allies. To attack a target the player declares the attackers and exhausts them. Then the combined attack strength will be determined and so on. Only encountered enemies can be attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Dúnhere this means the following. If you select him in the combat phase as an attacker, and he attacks alone, he can also attack enemies in the staging area. As mentioned on the card if he does so, he gets +1 attack. This does not mean that you cannot do other attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/45740-dunhere-question/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discussion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3069" LastActivityDate="2014-07-05T19:02:56.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-05T23:34:26.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1717" Body="&lt;p&gt;The encounter phase is split into two, 1st the locations, then the otherworlds. So you do all the locations, then after that you do all the otherworlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you are drawn through the a gate in the Arkham Encounter phase, do you also draw a 2nd otherworld encounter card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7966" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T09:25:38.373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T09:25:38.373" Title="After being drawn into a gate during an Encounter, do you have an Other World encounter in the same turn?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-07-07T13:40:04.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-06T03:52:00.923" Score="3" ViewCount="1411" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bridge player opens with a pre-emptive bid of 3 or 4  of a suit and the opponent doubles.  Is this bid assumed to be for take out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7968" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:54:02.310" Title="Double after a pre-empt?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18105" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-06T04:03:13.360" Score="2" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can a person ron from a person that sits across or right next to him but the last tile he takes from discard pile are sequence melds? (assume all hands are closed)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can a person call ron and the last tile he need to complete are the pair? And if this can, can it call ron from everybody or just some people who sit left to him?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7969" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-06T12:02:15.067" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T15:33:43.413" Title="Can you ron with these hands?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2014-07-06T05:26:45.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't make any assumptions without agreements. In North America, the most common agreement I've seen is that doubles are takeout oriented for bids through at least 4D; I've seen 4D, 4H, 4S, 6D, and 6H as upper bounds on the takeout double range. Standard American Yellow Card specifies that doubles of partscores are for takeout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-06T05:26:45.360" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18102" CreationDate="2014-07-06T13:19:51.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 10) says your character gets delayed after being sucked be a gate. Beign delayed means that in the next turn, during the movement phase, the only thing you do is to stand your character token (page 16). Nothing else is affected, so you should have your other world encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, below is the &lt;strong&gt;wrong&lt;/strong&gt; answer I wrote before @Jefromi commented it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, although I'm unaware of any specific ruling about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham Horror &lt;a href=&quot;http://new.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 10) says your character gets delayed after being sucked be a gate. Beign delayed means that in the next turn, during the movement phase, the only thing you do is to stand you character token (page 16). Nothing else is affected, so you should have your other world encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 4) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Why is an investigator delayed when a gate opens up in their&#xA;  location, but not delayed if he enters the gate normally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: If the investigator was not delayed by a gate opening up in his&#xA;  location, he would be able to get through the Other World having only&#xA;  one Other World Encounter rather than two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that an investigators sucked through a gate should have exactly two Other World encounters. Should you have an Other World encounter this turn, next turn you'd stand your character marker, have an encounter in the first Other World position, then in the following turn you'd move to the second position to have a third encounter. This seems to contradict what is suggested in the FAQ. In this situation, the only thing that you can do to avoid violating more specific rules is to not have an Other World encounter when you're sucked by a portal during an encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T04:40:39.230" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T04:40:39.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18114" CreationDate="2014-07-07T01:54:14.757" Score="2" ViewCount="5684" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the traitor and I'm in control of a monster. The guide says this monster has a Speed, Might, and Sanity values of 3 each. How do I determine the monster's hit points, I.E. how much damage it can take until it's &quot;defeated&quot;? (This monster has a special property where it can be &quot;defeated&quot; instead of just getting stunned - see spoiler text.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; This is scenario 48, Stacked Like Cordwood. Actually, the monster comes back stronger if &quot;killed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T02:07:28.417" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T23:01:54.140" Title="How do I determine my monster's hit points?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18112" CreationDate="2014-07-07T01:58:18.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Monsters (like explorers) don't have hit points. If a scenario says that a monster can be killed instead of just being stunned, then that scenario should also say how it can be killed. It may just say that if it's defeated, then it is killed instead of stunned, or if it's defeated with a specific item, etc. You may have to be more specific in your question about which scenario you are playing, but just double check that scenario's rules; there are no general game rules to cover this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T01:58:18.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18112" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:15:38.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, monsters don't get defeated or take damage; they're just stunned and lose their special negative effects and next turn. See spoiler text below for detail on this specific haunt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; The Trator's Tome states &quot;If Crimson Jack is defeated, he is temporarily removed from the house &lt;strong&gt;instead of being stunned or taking damage&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. The bolded part is what I missed when playing - I should have reset Jack's location and added to his stats when he was stunned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T23:01:54.140" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T23:01:54.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18092" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:29:12.690" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;2R1B is designed to work well with larger groups, so it's difficult to make it work well in the 6-8 player space. I assume you're already following the rules that for 10 or fewer players you only have 3 rounds and cannot colour share.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, the main considerations are to make card sharing risky while still being necessary, and encouraging deals, so I would suggest that with 6 players you might want to have President, Bomber and 4 Grey roles. As to which Greys, potentially something like Ahab+Moby, or Sniper+Target+Decoy, where it's highly beneficial to know who the other Greys are without giving away your own role, which might involve trying to find the President or Bomber and making a deal with them. Romeo+Juliet is also good, although they're actively trying to find each other so they're probably more open to publically revealing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Burying a card can also make things interesting, although with only 6 players if you're burying a card then you either need to ensure that President and Bomber aren't buried, or you play with President's Daughter and Martyr plus 3 Grey cards, and try to make sure that those three don't cause issues with burying (either by only burying one of the four Red/Blue cards, or picking Greys that don't depend on each other). There's still an issue there, though, that you'll wind up with one team who has 2 players against one who may have only 1, which gets a bit unfair. You could make one of the Greys the Amnesiac/Drunk instead, who gains the role of the buried card in the last round, but that just means that you're really playing with the normal 6 cards but someone doesn't know how to play until round 3 (unless they can somehow divine their card earlier), which may wind up being even less fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The print-and-play rules include a number of suggested sets that go down to 6 players - the first group are more tutorial ones, but from page 21 (of the v4.0 rules) onwards there are several that are more designed to make for interesting decisions around card sharing and hostage trading. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 Rooms, 1 Boom and a Gunshot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;President/Bomber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sniper/Target/Decoy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hot Potato&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one has a lot of potential for crazy shenanigans - the Hot Potato always loses, but anyone who card shares with it trades roles, so even if the President has worked out who the Bomber is, or the Sniper their Target, things can still go awry if they don't keep an eye on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6 Player Instant Death&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;President/Bomber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doctor/Engineer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tuesday Knight/Dr Boom&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this one, the President and the Bomber both know they need to card share with the Doctor and Engineer respectively, or risk their team losing. At the same time, if they share with Dr Boom or Tuesday Knight, it's an instant loss for them and a win for their opponents. So Dr Boom and Tuesday Knight will probably be claiming to be the Doctor and the Engineer. But then if that role is in the same room, they can counter-claim. Or maybe knowing that that's expected they'll try an even trickier tactic. Maybe the Engineer can claim Bomber to lure out Tuesday Knight - or claim President to try to find a teammate in Dr Boom (or find the Doctor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T02:29:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18117" CreationDate="2014-07-07T02:43:51.320" Score="2" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent is playing an exalted deck and I am playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyxis%20of%20Pandemonium&quot;&gt;Pyxis of Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt;. The exalted text reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control attacks alone, that creature gets +1/+1 until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After my opponent declares attackers but before we move into the declare blockers phase I activate Pyxis of Pandemonium's second ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player turns face up all cards he or she owns exiled with Pyxis of Pandemonium, then puts all permanent cards among them onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result my opponent gets permanents that have the exalted ability. Will these newly created permanents exalted ability trigger or have they entered the battlefield too late? Does my opponent have the opportunity to change his attackers as we are still in the declare attackers phase? (not to the new creatures however as they will have summoning sickness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T18:24:47.763" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T18:24:47.763" Title="Exalted trigger timing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18116" CreationDate="2014-07-07T03:02:23.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creatures enter the battlefield too late for their &quot;exalted&quot; abilities to trigger.  &quot;Whenever [object] attacks&quot; abilities only trigger when attackers are actually declared; as the newly un-exiled creatures were not on the battlefield at that time, their abilities did not trigger, and they cannot trigger after the event has already taken place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.2a Abilities that trigger on a creature attacking trigger only at the point the creature is declared as an attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your opponent cannot change attackers after they have already been successfully declared, regardless of what step you're on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T03:02:23.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2014-07-07T11:32:15.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course there are both advantages and disadvantages of whether a dbl is penalty or take-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of bridge's nature, the thing you always have to consider when you play a convention (takeout dbl is a conventional bid too), is to make the choice that is going to &quot;win&quot; most of the times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my country most of people (myself included) play negative/takeout doubles up to 4h. (ie 4h X is takeout, while 4S X is penalty)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that this is a logical upper limit, since when opponents preempt 4h you should be able to play spades with a 4-4 or 4-5 fit. While on the other hand it's more risky to try and find a fit on the 5th level (if 4S was the opening).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further analysis, if someone wants to use a takeout call after 4S opening, he usually uses the (conventional) bid 4NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T11:32:15.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18121" CreationDate="2014-07-07T12:41:36.823" Score="19" ViewCount="47332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game of Ticket to Ride Europe recently, I don't own it but am vaguely familiar with the rules. When we started playing however there was some confusion about the placement of stations and I was out-voted 3:1. What the rules specifically say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Train Station allows its owner to use one, and only one, of the routes belonging&#xA;  to another player, into (or out of) that city to help him connect the cities on his&#xA;  Destination Tickets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation is that this allows you to do what it says, use a single route owned by another player. The next bit toward the end of the section however states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player uses the same Station to help connect cities on several&#xA;  different Tickets, he must use the same route into the city with the&#xA;  Station for all of those Tickets. The Train Station owner does not&#xA;  need to decide which route he will use until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point the &lt;strong&gt;same route into the city&lt;/strong&gt; statement was picked up really strongly. The group believed that this means several routes going out of a city could be used, as long as the same route into the city was used. In the end this meant that during the scoring they believed in the following diagram (red routes):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A continuous path from Frankfurt-&gt;Madrid exists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No continuous path from Brest-&gt;Madrid exists because it didn't use the same route &lt;strong&gt;into&lt;/strong&gt; Paris as the Frankfurt route, and therefore couldn't share the blue link.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xwjvA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone confirm if I'm correct, in that you can only use 1 link, and in this scenario both destination tickets are completed at the end of the game. If so can you think of any convincing arguments I can put forward to the group?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-04-12T11:42:23.870" LastActivityDate="2022-12-07T22:31:12.660" Title="The Proper use of Stations in Ticket to Ride Europe" Tags="|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2014-07-07T13:56:15.120" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've looked up my rules and your quote is correct but I believe you are right and that the second 'rule' is just poorly written. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense that there is something in the rules to stop the player moving the station from one line to another between Tickets.  So, if you were the blue player you could use a blue station on the Paris end of Paris-Frankfurt for Pavlona-Frankfurt, but the rules need to prevent you from moving it to the Paris-Brest line for a second trip from Pavlona.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is what the text was trying to convey, but failed to do so. Rephrasing it as the following might help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player uses the same Station to help connect cities on several&#xA;  tickets he must use &lt;em&gt;the same city route (the one with the station)&lt;/em&gt; for&#xA;  all of those Tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This fits with the spirit of the application of a Station being to 'convert' one line to your colour.  No other part of the rules has anything like as asymmetrical a mechanism as the rest of your group seems to be suggesting.  It seems &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; unlikely that Alan Moon (whose rules typically have a natural flow) meant this unnatural oddity, and far more likely that this is a small error in transcription somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2014-07-07T13:56:15.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2014-07-07T16:39:09.337" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no concept of direction of travel in Ticket to Ride.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, by the end of the game, a player has created a continuous path of his color plastic trains between the two cities named on a Destination Ticket he holds, he scores the additional points indicated by the Point Value on the Ticket. If he has failed to complete a continuous path between those cities, he deducts the Point Value on the Ticket from his total score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A path between cities&lt;/em&gt; must be created. Nothing about traveling &lt;em&gt;from&lt;/em&gt; one of the cities &lt;em&gt;to&lt;/em&gt; the other city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the Brest-Madrid path exists because it did use the same route into Paris as the Frankfurt-Madrid path, the Pamplona-Paris route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ticket to Ride is a simple game with straightforward rules. It's obvious to me that the purpose of the second rule you quoted is to prevent the station from being used to borrow two different routes. In fact, this is stated explicitly earlier in the rules (quoted below). It's a botched attempt to clarify this rule (which was already plenty clear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Train Station allows its owner to use one, &lt;strong&gt;and only one&lt;/strong&gt;, of the routes belonging to&#xA;  another player, into (or out of) that city to help him connect the cities on his&#xA;  Destination Tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means your group is clearly wrong when they believe that several routes going out of a city could be borrowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My proposed rewording of the second rule you quoted is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only one route is ever chosen per station. This means that a player can't have a station grant him the use of two routes for two different tickets, but any number of tickets can use the chosen route. The Train Station owner does not need to decide which route he will use until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-03-05T17:08:03.687" LastActivityDate="2018-03-05T17:08:03.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18123" CreationDate="2014-07-07T17:17:26.560" Score="7" ViewCount="1785" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apologies if this is poorly phrased.  I'll try to make this as clear as possible...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently realized that I can utilize the period of time between a players turn and my turn in Magic. What's the name of this period?  What is the appropriate verbiage/ettiquette to indicate doing something during that time? I don't think its &amp;quot;during your upkeep&amp;quot;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, I'd like to use this time to activate lands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arid%20Mesa&quot;&gt;Arid Mesa&lt;/a&gt; search my library for land that I want without losing a cycle doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T20:31:03.847" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:45:44.027" Title="What's the technical term for the period of time between when an opponent concludes their turn and mine begins?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18122" CreationDate="2014-07-07T17:37:21.203" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no &lt;strong&gt;between&lt;/strong&gt; turns; the end of one turn transitions immediately to the beginning of the next. The last time you can definitely activate abilities and play instants before your turn is during your opponent's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/End_of_turn_step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;End Step&lt;/a&gt;, which is after their second main phase. The end step is is followed by the cleanup step (the last step of the turn), when players usually &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; gain priority, and that is followed immediately by your untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard way of indicating that you want to do something during this time is to wait for your opponent to say &quot;I end my turn.&quot; (or equivalent), and then you say &quot;During your end step, I activate my Arid Mesa's ability.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, this falls under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Shortcut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shortcut rules&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_2jun14_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; (section 4.2) list &quot;Your turn&quot; (and equivalents) as meaning &quot;I propose a shortcut: that I pass priority until you have priority at my end step&quot; and when you say &quot;I would like to do something at your end step&quot; it means &quot;I accept your shortcut, and when it is complete I do something.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T00:45:44.027" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:45:44.027" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18129" CreationDate="2014-07-07T19:19:35.307" Score="3" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Science Fiction Double Feature expansion, the card Copycat allows you to copy the ability of another's player minion for a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose another player's minion in play. This card has the same ability as that minion until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the timing of the copy is not clear. When I play Copycat it's ability activates. If I copy an ability that says &quot;You may draw a card&quot;, does it activate again allowing me to draw a card? Or can I only effectively copy Ongoing abilities (and those that remain for the rest of the turn, like &quot;you may play an extra minion&quot;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T03:21:17.670" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:59:36.543" Title="Using Copycat with one-shot abilities" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22618" CreationDate="2014-07-07T23:02:10.670" Score="4" ViewCount="4954" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played Caverna a few times now, and the most recent time, I stumbled onto something so easy and good I felt like I must be cheating. So, help me out: am I doing this right? Or, is there some mitigating factor I don't understand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Peaceful Cave&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; furnishing is described like this in the Appendix (emphasis original):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At any time,&lt;/strong&gt; you can trade the weapons of your Dwarfs for Food. You get a number of food equal to the strength of the Weapon you trade in. You can trade multiple weapons at the same time or at different points in time. &lt;em&gt;(For instance, if you traded in a Weapon of strength 14, you would get 14 Food from the general supply. The Peaceful cave works well with the Prayer chamber.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ore is relatively plentiful (with plenty of tiles to help if you need a boost), and the net result is that you can take the Blacksmithing space basically whenever it's available, pay 8 ore, and then immediately exchange the now-strength-9 weapon for 9 food &lt;em&gt;plus&lt;/em&gt; whatever you got on the expedition itself. (2 more ore + 2 points + one of whatever else you need!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the others have armed their dwarfs (or decided not to), the Blacksmith tile doesn't seem to be in that much contention, and anyway, this made food so plentiful that I had no problem using the Imitation space whenever it was convenient. &lt;em&gt;Plus&lt;/em&gt;, the tile itself is worth 2 points, and as the description notes, it makes &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Prayer Chamber&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; another easy 8 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With three dwarfs, you can basically have one doing this, one gathering ore, and the other doing whatever else you want. Probably breeding more dwarfs, because mouths to feed aren't an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: were we playing this wrong? Is there some limiting factor that I hadn't thought of? Should there be a rule that once a weapon is sold, that dwarf can't be re-armed? (There doesn't appear to be. And how would you keep track?) Or are there many other options that are actually just this good that we haven't discovered yet, and I'm just amazed because I'm used to the rounds of abject poverty and starvation in Agricola?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastEditorUserId="317" LastEditDate="2014-07-07T23:07:45.920" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T01:17:31.420" Title="Peaceful cave too good to be true?" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-08T01:21:48.913" Score="4" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was playing a game of The Resistance with some people who haven't played it before. What I found, is that of the five games we played, the Resistance only won one of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the reason for this, was a social dynamic of people not wanting to argue, and 'let's just get on with the game' so vote for the mission to go ahead, even though there's a good chance there's a spy on the mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good strategies for getting people more vested in the outcome of the mission, or is this simply a matter of 'playing with the right people'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T13:29:14.230" Title="The Resistance doesn't work when resistance members don't care about losing" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18105" CreationDate="2014-07-08T01:41:57.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally yes, but it will depend on which variant you are playing and any special rules. It sounds like you are playing Japanese Mahjong (since you use the term &quot;ron&quot;), in which case you will need to be sure your hand has at least one yaku if you use someone else's tile to win, and obviously you can't be in a &quot;no ten&quot; state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Precedence rules may also apply if two players are trying to simultaneously win off of the same discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T01:41:57.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18126" CreationDate="2014-07-08T02:24:41.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This problem doesn't seem specific to the game at hand, though of course, you'll probably find it easier to convince people you know to play a game seriously, or choose a game that they will enjoy and/or make the game enjoyable for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of reasons why people don't play games &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; to win: &lt;a href=&quot;http://onigame.livejournal.com/34424.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://onigame.livejournal.com/34424.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T02:24:41.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18124" CreationDate="2014-07-08T03:31:39.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole point of Copycat is to allow you to use another minion's ability. Making it impossible to copy most minion's ability makes makes no sense to me, and it makes no sense to the others with whom I've played either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you're already limited to abilities of other player's minions in play (something you have no control over), and that ongoing abilities and talents only work for your turn. This offsets the ability to have some flexibility in the effect of the minions ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have it come into play with the abilities of the minion it copies. Playing a Copycat masquerading as an Enchantress (&quot;Draw a card.&quot;) would have you draw a card, because it is an Enchantress as far as any can tell (except in name and power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really an &quot;again&quot; type of situation. You get to use the Enchantress's ability once. Just like the Enchantress did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T03:44:31.160" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T03:44:31.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18126" CreationDate="2014-07-08T10:48:15.530" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All games require people to be at least somewhat invested in playing properly, otherwise what's the point in playing in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the issue is made clear in your line about how there &quot;was a social dynamic of people not wanting to argue, and 'let's just get on with the game'&quot; - sorry, but arguing in The Resistance IS the game. Without the discussion, it's just a game of voting. It's already a short game (20-30 minutes), what is to be gained by rushing through it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like the group weren't that up for playing. It is a game that requires the right group of people as you say. Although I will add the caveat that lots of people I didn't think would be into it will often surprise you with how invested they get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people will take at least one game to establish properly how it works and what opportunities are available (and yes, you may need to artificially inflate the drama a little by throwing some accusations around perhaps more than you normally would). Some people however simply will not get it and won't get invested (my brother for example, couldn't understand why the spies would bother lying - which makes no sense, but whatever).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T10:48:15.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18133" CreationDate="2014-07-08T11:25:13.890" Score="3" ViewCount="1677" Body="&lt;p&gt;The STOP card in bridge is used in order to help all players keep their rights, as far as thinking is concerned. However I have some questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When do we have to use the STOP card. Should STOP be used before &lt;strong&gt;ANY&lt;/strong&gt; jump bid? I find logic to use stop in bids like 1S-3S or 1H-(2S). But how about 1NT-3NT. What is the official rule?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The second  question is about &lt;strong&gt;HOW&lt;/strong&gt; to use the stop card. Here are some options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is what i think that should happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Show STOP card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make your bid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove stop card (no waiting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(opponent waits 5-8 seconds)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;opponent makes his bid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is what most people think that should happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Show STOP card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;make your bid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wait 5-8 seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove stop card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;opponent makes his bid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which one is the official way according to the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I think that the second option is not &quot;correct&quot;, is because the player who used the STOP could wait 10-20 (or more) seconds before removing it. What should the opponent do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2021-07-27T19:26:10.447" Title="Bridge: Usage of the stop card" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18126" CreationDate="2014-07-08T12:11:08.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with &lt;strong&gt;The Resistance&lt;/strong&gt; is it really requires the right group of people to play with, and the right mindset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is so small it could be considered a casual game, but it's complex enough it can be considered more advanced (not for beginner-boardgamers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally find no interest in it - and I love most board games - light or heavy. I also run into the issue where I just don't really care who wins or not. This is likely due to my preferences in gaming; this game just doesn't spark interest for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love similar games to this - such as &lt;strong&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/strong&gt; - and I take that game very seriously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think that the same is true for your other players; you have to find a game that everyone likes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even if friends &lt;em&gt;say&lt;/em&gt; they like a game - you can tell if people are really having fun or not by how much they care about the win&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find a game everyone likes. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If people don't care about winning/losing, chances are they're not having fun with the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T12:11:08.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18131" CreationDate="2014-07-08T12:55:21.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to your first question is that you should use it either for &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; skip bids, or for &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; skip bid. Using it only for some skip bids but not for others could result in a director call and a procedural penalty against you for intentionally transmitting unauthorized information to your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your second question: option 1 is correct under the jurisdiction of the ACBL (ie essentially all games in the US and Canada), while option 2 is correct under the jurisdiction of the WBF (essentially all other games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T12:55:21.303" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18126" CreationDate="2014-07-08T13:29:14.230" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to make people care about something that they don't already is to wager something.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am not suggesting that you need to wager in The Resistance, or that it is even a good idea, but there is no other way to get people who don't care to care.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also I would mention that most games don't work if the people playing it don't care.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T13:29:14.230" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18104" CreationDate="2014-07-08T15:44:51.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike a low level bid, where the double is always for takeout, the meaning of a double after a pre-empt is a matter for partnership agreement. There are two alternatives, and which you use is less important than the fact that the partners are on the same page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One alternative is to double for penalty. A double like that suggests that the doubler has about 16 hcps, two or three trumps with &quot;nuisance&quot; value (possibly Kx or Kxx), and can pretty much defeat the contract by himself. Responder can pass, except with an above-average hand (more than eight of the remaining 24 points), or a very &quot;shapely&quot; hand, with say, a void in the opposing suit, and a six card suit of one's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second alternative is to double for takeout. That implies 12 hcps and shortness in the opponents' suit, and is similar to a normal takeout double. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second kind of double is more common (it's easier for someone to have 12 than 16 hcps), and more flexible. It means,  &quot;I've got enough to give the opponents trouble, but can't defeat them alone, and can go different ways depending on what you, the responder, have&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 5 or so hcps and several of the opponent's &quot;trumps,&quot; you can pass for penalties (basically with &quot;two kings&quot; less than a one level takeout double). If you have a five card major suit, you and the doubler should either be able to make game, or keep the opponents out of game, using that suit as trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Larry Cohen, &quot;To Bid or Not to Bid, the Law of Total Tricks.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T16:54:02.310" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T16:54:02.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16726" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:07:52.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I definitely recommend revealing who the spies were at the end.  &lt;em&gt;Not&lt;/em&gt; revealing them would just lead to additional frustration, and among friends it could cause unnecessary tension.  You could potentially wait until after a string of 3 or 4 games are completed before revealing who the spies were in each round, but at that point you may not remember with confidence which rounds you were or were not a spy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the things that I would also recommend to those that play against each other a lot is to change your play style as the rounds progress.  It makes it a little more difficult for a fellow resistance member to recognize you, but it will help you for a round when you do become a spy.  A lot of the time it boils down to learning how your fellow spies will act and playing to their strengths such as drawing attention to yourself as a spy and causing confusion to help protect another spy who always ends up real chatty when they are a spy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T00:44:21.007" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T00:44:21.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14321" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:24:55.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own both, and we play The Resistance: Avalon a lot more than we play The Resistance now.  There are so many more points of intrigue and styles of play with Merlin and the Assassin.  Merlin knows a LOT of information, but Merlin also has to be careful about how much information is revealed.  Otherwise the Assassin will just take out Merlin at the end and the spies (it's a different name in Avalon but still the same thing) still win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in addition to Merlin and the Assassin, there are additional characters cards such as Mordred - who is evil and unknown to Merlin.  There is Oberon, who is evil yet unknown to other spies/evil players.  There is Percival, who is good and also knows who Merlin is - yet does not know who the evil players are.  You could also use Morgana, who would appear as Merlin to Percival, so it makes it more difficult for Percival to figure out who is telling the truth.  I'm pretty sure all of these character cards are in the base game, although I own the Kickstarter edition that also comes with the Lancelot promotional cards where he can flip between good or evil depending on what cards are revealed in an event deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing I really enjoy with Avalon is that you can make it as simple or as complex as you want.  Just adding Merlin and the Assassin is great.  We love to mix in Mordred and Percival.  The only difficulty is making sure you go through the script properly to make sure the proper information is revealed between the players before the round starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I do recommend purchasing Avalon, there's nothing stopping you from creating your own character cards with the same Avalon abilities and replace the ones in The Resistance.  Everything else with the game is still the same.  If you have the first edition of The Resistance with the little pocket size box, I do recommend picking up Avalon to get the better board components (the voting tiles do wear down quickly, so I still use sleeved cards for the yes/no votes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:24:55.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16709" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:32:26.287" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use two different apps that give you a majority of what you are looking for.  I have an Android device, and I use Gamekeeper (free version) and the Board Game Geek app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gamekeeper allows me to keep track of scores, add dice (of any size and quantity with modifiers), and it also has a timer.  You could potentially add additional rows to the scores area to track some meta data such as bids (anything that is a numeric quantity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Board Game Geek app, it's a lot more than just logging plays.  It allows you track your collection, log plays, track players who played, date played, who won, final scores, how long it took to play, etc.  You do have to go to boardgamegeek.com to manage your collection.  Right now you still can't add new games to your collection directly within the app.  However, outside of that the app is still a phenomenal thing to use, and it's a great way to track your historical plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:32:26.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8768" CreationDate="2014-07-08T16:58:40.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like so many Blokus questions, the answer is: &quot;It depends&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late in the game, the &quot;best pieces&quot; are the ones you can still play.&#xA;That will depend on what your opponents have done already,&#xA;and won't always be the same ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the pieces are both &quot;good&quot; and &quot;bad&quot;,&#xA;but in general the ones with lots of corners (like, F and X and W)&#xA;are &quot;more useful&quot; than those with long straight edges, (like L and I).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But every piece has both good and bad qualities, and times it should&#xA;be used, and times it should be saved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take for example, the I (or I5 as it called in online games):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good qualities: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it takes you as far as possible in one direction,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it can cut off an opponent in some situations where no other piece will, because it's the only one that's 5-long. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bad qualities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only 4 corners, so vulnerable to being cut off easily itself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;those long edges set up nice places for the opponents to play on  (called 'leaks') which cannot be blocked by the color of I5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That, and just about every other piece, is a two-edged sword&#xA;(with the I5 being most sword-like in appearance!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a detailed look at &quot;The 4 most valuable Pieces&quot;&#xA;written by an expert player, see&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blokusstrategy.com/?p=470&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blokusstrategy.com/?p=470&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And for standard piece naming among online players, see&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blokusstrategy.com/?p=48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://blokusstrategy.com/?p=48&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous answer that said the the I4(straight piece 4-long) and O4(square)&#xA;are the hardest to play was absolutely right.  In online games, they are&#xA;the most frequently unplayed pieces, with the square failing to play over half the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7985" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T16:58:40.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14553" CreationDate="2014-07-08T17:03:10.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The X is the only piece which cannot be played first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a smaller (14x14 board) version of the game&#xA;for 2 colors, called Duo, or sometimes Travel Blokus,&#xA;and the starting point for that is 5 squares in from the&#xA;corner on the diagonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that game any piece can be played first, and the X is often chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7985" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T17:03:10.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7469" CreationDate="2014-07-08T17:10:29.300" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151105055558/http://www.copyright.gov/fls/fl108.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is what the US Government Copyright Office has to say about the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting the first paragraph from the above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copyright does not protect the idea for a game, its name or title, or the method or methods for playing it. Nor does copyright protect any idea, system, method, device, or trademark material involved in developing, merchandising, or playing a game. Once a game has been made public, nothing in the copyright law prevents others from developing another game based on similar principles. Copyright protects only the particular manner of an author’s expression in literary, artistic, or musical form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then goes into a little more detail, but overall is a pretty short blurb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7985" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-07T15:01:30.237" LastActivityDate="2022-05-07T15:01:30.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18145" CreationDate="2014-07-08T20:20:54.123" Score="3" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the color of the following Magic conspiracy cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advantageous Proclamation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Backup Plan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brago's Favor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double Stroke&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediate Action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Iterative Analysis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Muzzio's Preparations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power Play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secret Summoning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secrets of Paradise&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sentinel Dispatch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unexpected Potential&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Worldknit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" OwnerDisplayName="Gad D Lord" LastEditorUserId="1572" LastEditDate="2014-07-08T21:11:03.787" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T23:07:54.727" Title="Are Magic: the Gathering Conspiracy cards colorless?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18143" CreationDate="2014-07-08T21:15:01.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the Conspiracy cards have any mana costs, color indicators, or characteristic-defining abilities relating to color.  Thus, they are all colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-07-08T21:15:01.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18143" CreationDate="2014-07-08T21:15:37.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Conspiracy cards (cards with the Conspiracy type) are colorless. They are not permanents, they cannot be played in decks, they only exist in the command zone*, and they never interact with cards, abilities, or effects that care about color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Colors_(rules)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;105.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame. An object's color or colors may also be defined by a color indicator or a characteristic-defining ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana#Mana_Cost_and_Color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;202.2b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Objects with no colored mana symbols in their mana costs are colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conspiracy cards do not have mana costs (in particular, no colored mana symbols), color indicators, or characteristic-defining abilities, so they do not have any color; they are colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* This was clarified in the Magic 2015 update:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;313.3. Conspiracy cards remain in the command zone throughout the game. They’re not permanents. &#xA;  They can’t be cast or included in a deck. If a conspiracy card would leave the command zone, it &#xA;  remains in the command zone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T23:07:54.727" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T23:07:54.727" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18146" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T12:35:14.007" Score="2" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;We didn't have a fourth player for some time so we switched from riichi to three player version with korean\japanese rules as described on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt; (I guess that's the most popular version for 3 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I got a bit confused with scoring here. In riichi you just use sticks\chips, but here it's completely different and it seems normal for players to go negative on points for a portion of a game. So my question on scoring actually consists of two minor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With what score people begin? How do they track score if not using sticks?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much exactly pays discarder? And how much players pay on tsumo (self-draw)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How we did it:&lt;br /&gt;We started with 0 points for each player, so someone definetely went negative on other's victory. We just tracked the results on paper. On tsumo both players payed game points + bonus points, on ron only discarder payed full (game points + bonus points). I know that's most probably not right as per &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong#Discarder_pays&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt;, but later in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong#Recap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recap&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only winner scores, taking his total score (game points and bonus&#xA;  points) from each player with no doubling of any kind. Discarder pays&#xA;  the other players score and only the bonus points if the player was&#xA;  ready to win (waiting for one piece with a legal minimum game points&#xA;  hand to be acquired).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which confuses me, to be honest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7991" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T12:35:14.007" Title="Three player mahjong: scoring clarifications" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T12:45:18.443" Score="2" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;We didn't have a fourth player for some time so we switched from riichi to three player version with korean\japanese rules as described on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt; (I guess that's the most popular version for 3 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But description on that Wiki page seems not that clear compared to riichi. The question here is about &lt;code&gt;5 bamboo&lt;/code&gt; tiles, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong#Recap&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Recap&lt;/a&gt; is says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2-8 of bamboo is removed from the game with the option of using two 5&#xA;  bamboo pieces which can only be used as a pair (which when successful&#xA;  scores many points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, the only two hands I see with them are half-limit &lt;code&gt;Little Jade Dragon&lt;/code&gt; and full limit &lt;code&gt;Pong of 1 and 9 bamboo and pair of 5 bamboo&lt;/code&gt;. Is that all? They are not mentioned in common hands there nor in scoring, and not used even in 13 orphans. Is some info missing there or is it just as intended? Because it seams too little for rarest pair in set, in my opinion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7991" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T12:45:18.443" Title="Three player mahjong: 5 bamboo variation" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18148" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18160" CreationDate="2014-07-09T12:53:19.560" Score="2" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;We didn't have a fourth player for some time so we switched from riichi to three player version with korean\japanese rules as described on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt; (I guess that's the most popular version for 3 players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used to doras in riichi we played with one &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_player_mahjong#Revealed_Dora_Tiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;revealed dora&lt;/a&gt;. But I didn't find there what do do if a flower tile is revealed as dora.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shuffling whole set again in this case seems too much so we decided that every flower sholds add one more bonus point. Is this right or is there some other commonly used rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7991" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T00:26:40.970" Title="Three player mahjong: flower as dora" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18150" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:00:19.360" Score="0" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=140200&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt; to copy &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=stoneforge%20mystic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stoneforge Mystic&lt;/a&gt; do I get to search my library for an Equipment card when I perform the copy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T03:50:04.440" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T03:50:04.440" Title="Can Shapesharer copy an enters the battlefield ability, like Stoneforge Mystic's?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18149" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:08:13.350" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Shapesharer does not enter the battlefield when its ability resolves: it was already in play. Stoneforge Mystic's ability only triggers when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you could use the Shapesharer-Mystic's activated ability after resolving the copy effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you used a different copy card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;, you &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; get the Mystic's triggered ability, because the copy effect would replace the regular act of entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T14:08:13.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18149" CreationDate="2014-07-09T14:10:03.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The new Stoneforge Mystic will not &quot;enter the battlefield&quot;, because it is already on the battlefield. In order for &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; triggers to trigger, the object must change zones from some other zone to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T14:10:03.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7384" CreationDate="2014-07-09T17:56:19.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only point I see is to field them in an unbound army with a stompa so you can have the lootas shoot from the access point and the meks can repair. Otherwise i agree that there seems to be little to no point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7994" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T17:56:19.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T20:01:45.353" Score="0" ViewCount="5320" Body="&lt;p&gt;My bridge club plays by a rule that an opening of a convenient minor requires a demand response by the partner unless intervening opponent does an overcall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Situation:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My partner opened with 1-Diamond; opponent passed.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As Responder I had no 4-card major, 3-cards each in the minor suit, and less than 6 points.  We play that a minor response to a minor opening implies that the responder has a 5-card minor suit, such as the bidding:  1H; pass; 2D (5-card diamond suit)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But in my case I did not have 5 diamonds or anything, really.  After fretting whether to pass (against our rules) or bid &quot;something&quot; (leading to a disaster), I bid 1-NT expecting/hoping partner to put contract in her best suit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My partner (the opener) responded 2-NT and the bidding: 1D; pass; 1NT; pass/&#xA;                                                       2NT; pass; pass; pass&#xA;And we went down big time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me - and hoping partner would realize it, my 1NT implied a bust hand and she was to then pick her best suit.  But didn't work that way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any advice how we can properly handle this situation the next time?  What is the ACL rule for responding to a &quot;convenient minor opening&quot;?  Is a demand response the rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7997" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2019-06-01T20:17:08.473" LastActivityDate="2019-06-02T00:28:54.277" Title="Forced Response to a Convenient Minor Opening?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18157" CreationDate="2014-07-09T21:13:40.127" Score="9" ViewCount="11509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the Traitor and I've just killed a Hero who had two Items and an Omen card. Do I get to &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; pick up and use both the Items and the Omen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T18:04:45.027" Title="Does the Traitor automatically get all items that a dead Hero had?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18155" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-09T21:36:07.907" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T21:36:07.907" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T21:36:07.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18156" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-09T21:36:07.907" Score="0" Body="Short for &quot;Goblin Supremacy&quot;, printed by Moonster Games in 2010. 2-4 players. A card game where players build armies of certain classes of goblins." OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T23:57:50.643" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T23:57:50.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18154" CreationDate="2014-07-09T22:06:47.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you kill the Hero on the Hero's turn (or during your monsters' turn), then you don't get to do anything with the items; you can only pick up items on your own turn. (Though you can steal an item on your opponent's turn in lieu of inflicting at least 2 points of damage, as normal. But then you didn't kill the Hero.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you killed the Hero on &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; turn, then the answer is both &lt;strong&gt;yes and no&lt;/strong&gt;; per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth#rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official errata&lt;/a&gt;, an item can only be picked up &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; used on a given turn. You can pick up all of the items immediately, but you can't use any of them until a future turn. (This also prevents abuse from the Heroes; if there's an item you need to hold in order to make a Haunt-related roll, you can't pass around the item &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; make a Haunt-related roll with the item in the same turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a future turn, you can use &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the items. For items like the Armor that have a passive effect, they are effective immediately; it's only the items that you use during a turn (like the Bell or Medical Kit) that cannot be used during the turn you pick them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T18:04:45.027" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T18:04:45.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18158" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-09T22:23:31.287" Score="6" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I joined a duplicate bridge group and was matched with a partner;  we are doing pretty well when it comes to points.  Question:  My partner sometimes criticizes not only me but also opponents, sometimes offers unsolicited advice, and is sometimes catty about other people playing in the room.  What is correct way to address this?  It is not constant an often subtle.  Am I being overly sensitive or is this something that should be addressed by me or by the director?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7998" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-09T22:24:11.723" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T15:34:42.753" Title="New Bridge Partner and Etiquette" Tags="|bridge|etiquette|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18158" CreationDate="2014-07-09T23:11:42.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's tough for the Type A personalities so often attracted to competitive games like Bridge, but all criticisms of partner should be reserved until after the match. I suggest noting to your partner &quot;Make a note of that hand, and we'll discuss it after the game.&quot; One or two violations per game, that accept such a comment with a positive attitude, can be tolerated in a partner - any more than two you should be looking for a new partner, as the problem will get worse not better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All criticisms of anybody else in the room are out of bounds&lt;/strong&gt; - give your partner one warning and then have a word with the director. If you partner persists in this behaviour during the game look for another partner, and report offenses to the director &lt;em&gt;as they happen&lt;/em&gt; by calling him/her to the table. Otherwise you are liable to get branded by other club members as a cohort of like mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-07-09T23:11:42.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18148" CreationDate="2014-07-10T00:26:40.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I commonly flip over the next tile. (following the procedure in HK-style where if a player draws a flower, it is revealed and a replacement tile drawn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T00:26:40.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T02:41:07.320" Score="13" ViewCount="28283" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm constructing a Deck and I want to make all the mana Temple Cards. More Specifically I want them to be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTemple%20of%20Silence%5d&quot;&gt;Temple of Silence&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTemple%20of%20Plenty%5d&quot;&gt;Temple of Plenty&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTemple%20of%20Malady%5d&quot;&gt;Temple of Malady&lt;/a&gt;. Are these mana cards limited to only four per deck like regular cards or can you put an unlimited amount of them in your deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2019-02-08T15:02:07.530" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T21:03:56.870" Title="Is there a limit to the number of special lands I can put in my deck, like the Temples?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18161" CreationDate="2014-07-10T02:48:21.697" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only put four of each Temple in your deck. It's only the basic lands that are exempt from the limit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;100.2a In constructed play (a way of playing in which each player creates his or her own deck ahead of time), each deck must contain at least sixty cards. A constructed deck may contain any number of basic land cards and no more than four of any card with a particular English name other than basic land cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T22:04:39.990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T22:04:39.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18161" CreationDate="2014-07-10T02:48:22.123" Score="30" Body="&lt;p&gt;All cards are limited to 4 per deck except Basic lands, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22A%20deck%20can%20have%20any%20number%20of%20cards%20named%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cards that say they bypass this limit&lt;/a&gt; (currently &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Rats&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadowborn%20Apostle&quot;&gt;Shadowborn Apostle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rat%20Colony&quot;&gt;Rat Colony&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Persistent%20Petitioners&quot;&gt;Persistent Petitioners&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%27s%20Approach&quot;&gt;Dragon&amp;#39;s Approach&lt;/a&gt;). In the case of Basic lands, this means that the type line, which is the text between the image and the text box, has to start with the word &amp;quot;Basic&amp;quot;. The rule that covers this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100.2a&lt;/a&gt;. This limitation does not apply to limited play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards you mention are not Basic lands, so you can only have 4 of each in your deck. The only basic lands are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plains&quot;&gt;Plains&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Island&quot;&gt;Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swamp&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Plains&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Plains&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Island&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Swamp&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Swamp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Mountain&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Mountain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snow-Covered%20Forest&quot;&gt;Snow-Covered Forest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wastes&quot;&gt;Wastes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2022-08-22T21:03:56.870" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T21:03:56.870" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18153" CreationDate="2014-07-10T03:08:35.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing in North America, I have noticed two main approaches to responding to a convenient minor opening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only respond with normal responding strength (usually given as 6 HCP).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Respond with any hand that has an ace, a king, or shortness in the minor opened.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is covered by many bidding books, so let us discuss the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, you must not respond 1NT without at least 5 HCP; this will lead to disaster, as you have learned. When you are broke, your first priority is to bid a four-card major; if you do not have one and partner has bid 1C, you may bid 1D and pass partner's 1-level rebid (or 2C -- other 2-level bids are reverses and thus forcing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue comes when partner has opened 1D, and you hold a hand like Jxx xxx x xxxxxx. This is the worst case, and probably the least bad action is to pass and hope that your left-hand opponent comes into the auction. The only alternative is 1NT, but this is a terrible alternative (you must not bid 2C, as this must promise strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T03:08:35.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18165" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T05:30:54.240" Score="1" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a possible capture two or more fields away from a king like &lt;code&gt;b--w-&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;b-----w-&lt;/code&gt; are those count as a compulsory/necessary jumps or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8000" LastEditorUserId="8000" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T05:54:01.000" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T18:18:09.490" Title="How the forced capture rule works with crowned pieces( in international checkers or...)" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T05:55:27.983" Score="8" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a rule that says &quot;A player must capture as many pieces as possible.&quot; What happens in the event a player didn't see the move with the most captures, and makes a move that takes fewer? What happens in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Is it against the rules to be not too good in checkers and be unable to see the best combination? Hmmm...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8000" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T13:25:07.433" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T16:36:31.840" Title="&quot;A player must capture as many pieces as possible.&quot; What happens if he doesn't?" Tags="|variants|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18170" CreationDate="2014-07-10T10:07:47.313" Score="6" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Takenoko, rain specifically causes a selected segment to gain one piece of bamboo - but the fertilizer improvement doubles growth. So how much growth occurs as a result of rainfall on an irrigated segment with the fertilizer improvement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8001" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T13:16:44.533" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T17:45:21.123" Title="In Takenoko, when rain falls on a segment that has the fertilizer improvement, how much does the bamboo grow?" Tags="|takenoko|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18166" CreationDate="2014-07-10T11:20:28.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the exact variant of checkers you're talking about. In the primary version played in the US, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/rulesofcheckers.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forced capture rule&lt;/a&gt; says that you must make captures if possible, but lets the player arbitrarily choose between capturing moves (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.20 All capturing moves are compulsory, whether offered actively or passively. &lt;strong&gt;If there are two or more ways to jump, a player may select any one that they wish, not necessarily that which gains the most pieces&lt;/strong&gt;. Once started, a multiple jump must be carried through to completion. A man can only be jumped once during a multiple jumping sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-07-10T16:36:31.840" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T16:36:31.840" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18166" CreationDate="2014-07-10T15:09:38.437" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fmjd.org/docs/Annex%201%20official%20FMJD%20rules%20of%20international%20draughts.doc&quot;&gt;Official FMJD Rules for International Draughts&lt;/a&gt;, if the opponent notices that you have not captured as many pieces as possible, they may decide whether the move stands or if it must be taken back and made again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5.4. If a player has committed one of the following irregularities, his opponent has the right to decide whether that irregularity must be rectified, or on the contrary, must be allowed to stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5.4.8. Capture by a piece, of less or more than the number of possible pieces to capture;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T15:09:38.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18167" CreationDate="2014-07-10T17:45:21.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the official FAQ: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jybe.ch/faq/takenoko_faq_eng.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.jybe.ch/faq/takenoko_faq_eng.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the target plot carries a fertilizer improvement, 2 bamboo sections&#xA;  are added to the plot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T17:45:21.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9756" CreationDate="2014-07-10T19:11:42.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) One Per Room&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind this only applies to the first time an area is revealed.  So if a player re-seals a door via the &quot;Lock It Down&quot; skill and you open it again later, you will not spawn more zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8005" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T19:11:42.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18172" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-10T19:30:51.740" Score="3" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is an efficient way to train one's self at Chess?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy playing, perhaps 1-2 times per week. I used to play on an electronic board once per day and at one point I could start to beat it on a regular basis. However, I find it extremely hard to improve myself, and the literature is &lt;em&gt;vast&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I would like to get to the next level, what is a reasonable approach? Just continue playing, or is there a more systematic approach? Starting to memorize openings? Maybe that's overkill and there could be other things I might do first. I've just glimpsed into Bobby Fischer Teaches Chess, looks like reasonably leveled book. Any other suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8006" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T08:23:46.200" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:11:56.850" Title="Chess: Efficient training for recreational players" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18174" CreationDate="2014-07-10T22:02:26.307" Score="3" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, an explorer discovers the Coal Chute, and the Coal Chute leads into the Chasm. So which side of the Chasm does the explorer land on? Do they then have to cross the Chasm to get back to the rest of the house?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T22:09:15.807" Title="When an explorer lands in a barrier room from above, which side do they end up on?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18173" CreationDate="2014-07-10T22:09:15.807" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is the Vault you always appear on the outside, otherwise it is your choice as to which half of a barrier room you appear on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official errata &amp;amp; FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Collapsed Room -- If you land in a room with two parts, such as the Chasm, which half do you land in?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything transports you to a barrier room, you decide which side of the room to end up in. If the arrival causes a counter to be created, as with the Collapsed Room or the Secret Passage, then that counter is permanently on the side of the room you choose. Anything that takes you to the Vault, however, always leaves you outside the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-10T22:09:15.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18176" CreationDate="2014-07-11T01:41:39.363" Score="2" ViewCount="6520" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose Player 1 controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Favored%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Favored Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; and casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ordeal%20of%20Heliod&quot;&gt;Ordeal of Heliod&lt;/a&gt; targeting it. In response, player 2 casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Magma%20Jet&quot;&gt;Magma Jet&lt;/a&gt; on the Favored Hoplite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the Heroic trigger from Ordeal of Heliod happen before Magma Jet, thus saving Favored Hoplite? Or does Magma Jet kill Favored Hoplite, with Ordeal of Heliod no longer having a valid target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8009" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T22:49:37.607" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T05:21:14.440" Title="When does Heroic trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-heroic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18175" CreationDate="2014-07-11T01:49:58.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Favored Hoplite won't be saved. Ordeal of Heliod will have no valid target, will be considered countered, and will be sent to Player 1's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;When do Heroic abilities trigger?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heroic abilities always follow this format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Heroic&lt;/em&gt; — Whenever you cast a spell that targets {this card}, {do something special}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They trigger right after a spell is cast. A spell is considered cast when you place it on the stack, having paid its costs, chosen its target, and so on. This is the point when you and other players can put other spells and abilities on the stack to respond to that spell. It's also before the spell resolves. (Tangentially: even if a spell gets countered, that doesn't change that it was considered cast at some point. It just doesn't get to resolve.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you cast a spell targeting your Favored Hoplite, triggering its ability, which goes on the stack on top of the spell. The Heroic ability resolves before the spell does:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ordeal of Heliod (bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favored Hoplite's Heroic ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these haven't resolved yet. At this point, before either resolves, you and the other players have an opportunity to place other spells and abilities on the stack. If you're confused about how the stack works, check this question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/12652/5573&quot;&gt;In plain English, how does casting spells and using creature abilities work with the stack and priority?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What happens in this scenario?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, your opponent may immediately cast Magma Jet (since it's an Instant) before either the Heroic ability or Ordeal of Heliod have a chance to resolve. That would make the stack look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ordeal of Heliod (bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Favored Hoplite's Heroic ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magma Jet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magma Jet will resolve first and kill your Favored Hoplite before the Heroic ability or Ordeal of Heliod get to do anything about it. You'll need to find another way to save it. That could include casting any instant targeting Favored Hoplite, which will trigger its Heroic ability &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt; - and that one will resolve before Magma Jet and save it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T04:49:44.233" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18180" CreationDate="2014-07-11T02:38:48.457" Score="7" ViewCount="15521" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible play the base version of Pandemic with one person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I've consider is you could just play for four players with open hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T19:50:52.627" Title="Single player variant of pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18179" CreationDate="2014-07-11T03:14:28.667" Score="1" ViewCount="2726" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Pandemic base set, and In The Lab, as I saw it plays up to six people. (Though I notice now that's for team play). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I got home, I saw the box says that you need both the base set and On The Brink to play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T13:50:30.030" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T13:50:30.030" Title="Do I need On The Brink to play In The Lab?" Tags="|pandemic|expansions|pandemic-on-the-brink|pandemic-in-the-lab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18178" CreationDate="2014-07-11T04:05:20.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it's correct, in that to use everything in the box, you absolutely need the base set and On the Brink. There are things in there that directly add on to things from On the Brink, and would be useless without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can still use most of it without On the Brink. You can add in the roles and events, and you can play the lab, solo, and team variants. This is all summarized in the &quot;overview&quot; section at the beginning of the rules, and the other sections make it explicit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lab Challenge: &quot;This challenge can be played with just the base game or combined with other challenges, except the Team game.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Solo Game: &quot;The solo game pits you, with a little help from the CDC, against all the diseases. It can be combined with other challenges, except the Bio-Terrorist challenge.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Team Game: &quot;The Team game can be combined with other challenges, except the &#xA;Bio-Terrorist or Lab challenges.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T04:05:20.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18177" CreationDate="2014-07-11T04:10:48.037" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, for basically any no-hidden-information co-op game, including Pandemic, you can play by yourself, acting as the appropriate number of players. I'd probably play as four, as you said, since I think the game is pretty good with four, but you could certainly try it with three or two if you prefer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think the open hands are really a big deal. You can already tell everyone all the cards in your hand all the time in the normal game, so it's not really a big leap to just play with open hands. A lot of people just play with open hands despite the rules, because they want to just play the game, not waste time constantly asking everyone what's in their hands. If you find that it makes it a little easier, just add an epidemic card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have the In the Lab expansion, there's also an actual solo version of the game, using a single role and the CDC (which has its own special actions), which can be combined with whichever other variants you like (except the bio-terrorist, of course). Up to you whether you prefer that or playing as multiple roles, but if you're looking at only the base game, you don't have much choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2018-05-31T14:06:14.807" LastActivityDate="2018-05-31T14:06:14.807" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18175" CreationDate="2014-07-11T04:35:47.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, build an actual stack. Physically use your hands as placeholders for triggers. If the stack is too large, find pieces of paper and write down the name of what triggered. You don't have to be a programmer to build a stack out of of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cast Ordeal. &lt;strong&gt;It goes on top of the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; Casting Ordeal triggers heroic. &lt;strong&gt;The trigger goes on top of the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; You pass priority. Your opponent casts Magma Jet. &lt;strong&gt;It goes on top of the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now your stack looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magma Jet (TOP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heroic Trigger (MIDDLE)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ordeal (BOTTOM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You both let the stack resolve at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The top of the stack resolves&lt;/strong&gt;. Magma Jet kills your guy. Next, &lt;strong&gt;the top of the stack resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; The heroic trigger has nothing to put a counter on anymore, so it doesn't do anything. Finally, &lt;strong&gt;the top of the stack tries to resolve&lt;/strong&gt;, but Ordeal has no legal target anymore, and so it gets countered by game rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T04:44:58.793" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T04:44:58.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18183" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-11T08:55:54.690" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T08:55:54.690" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T08:55:54.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18184" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-11T08:55:54.690" Score="0" Body="Takenoko is a board game set in Imperial Japan. The players cultivate the bamboo garden of the Japanese Emperor, which is also the home of a hungry panda." OwnerUserId="8001" LastEditorUserId="8001" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T18:49:07.433" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T18:49:07.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T09:02:16.037" Score="4" ViewCount="2545" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in Takenoko state that the Panda/Gardener can move in a straight line as far as they like, but not over gaps between tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice this means that the movement of the Panda/Gardener is hardly restricted. Would it be possible to restrict the movements of other players by placing the Gardener/Panda right on the edge of a tile on the edge of the map, thus reducing the available angles of movement for the next person to move the Panda/Gardener?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have assumed that movements are taken from the position of the Panda/Gardener piece, not the centre of the tile he is in. I have also assumed that the angle that the Panda/Gardener moves does not have to be congruent with any of the edges of the segment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8001" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T16:59:52.173" Title="Moving the Gardener/Panda 'in a straight line' in Takenoko" Tags="|takenoko|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18187" CreationDate="2014-07-11T10:43:43.587" Score="1" ViewCount="1080" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is as follows:&#xA;If I have multiple &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep...&quot; abilities,&#xA;and I want to cast an instant spell or activate an ability during that time, can I cast the spell between those spells, or only as respond to all of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FOR EXAMPLE:&#xA;If i have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227301&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Splinterfright&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234430&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead&lt;/a&gt; under my control.&#xA;Now I decided for no good reason, I want to cast Dark Ritual after Splinterfright ability resolved, but before Endless Ranks of the Dead did, can i do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8011" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:52:53.427" Title="Multiple stack abilities and casting spells in that time" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18186" CreationDate="2014-07-11T11:52:29.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible to respond to one trigger after others have finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Splinterfright's ability resolves, the active player (you) gets priority to play spells/abilities. See rule 116.3b:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you have an opportunity to cast Dark Ritual. If no player has any further responses, then your Ritual will resolve, followed by Endless Ranks of the Dead's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:52:29.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18186" CreationDate="2014-07-11T11:52:53.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/503-upkeep-step.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Upkeep step&lt;/a&gt; goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;503.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the upkeep step and any abilities that triggered during the turn's untap step go on the stack. (See rule 603, &quot;Handling Triggered Abilities.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;503.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at the very beginning of the step, all of the &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep&quot; abilities go on the stack at once. They're triggered abilities - this'll be important to know shortly. You'll have a chance to respond to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they all go on the stack at once, though, you don't get to do anything &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; any of them going on the stack, so as to insert effects between them. Instead, you'll have to wait until they begin resolving, and use your spell/ability with the right timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the order they go on the stack is important. That brings us to this rule on triggered abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3b&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, &lt;strong&gt;in APNAP order&lt;/strong&gt;, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack &lt;strong&gt;in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis added. This means if you have multiple &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep&quot; triggered abilities, you get to put them on the stack in whichever order you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent also does the same. The active player puts theirs on the stack first, followed by each other player in turn order, in case anything of theirs triggers. That's what the &quot;APNAP order&quot; bit means. This means the active player's stuff resolves last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;So as a play example...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If i have Splinterfright and a Endless Ranks of the Dead under my control. Now I decided for no good reason, I want to cast Dark Ritual after Splinterfright ability resolved, but before Endless Ranks of the Dead did, can i do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what you do in this case. I'll assume nobody else does anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place &lt;em&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead's&lt;/em&gt; triggered ability on the stack, then &lt;em&gt;Splinterfright's&lt;/em&gt; triggered ability. The stack looks like this:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead's&lt;/em&gt; triggered ability (bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Splinterfright's&lt;/em&gt; triggered ability (top)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait for &lt;em&gt;Splinterfright's&lt;/em&gt; ability to resolve. The stack is now this:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead's&lt;/em&gt; triggered ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast your instant or use your ability.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead's&lt;/em&gt; triggered ability (bottom)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your other thing (top)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let your other thing resolve. Then let &lt;em&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead's&lt;/em&gt; ability resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:52:53.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18185" CreationDate="2014-07-11T11:57:37.497" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;straight line&quot; is between tiles, not the precise position of the gardener. This isn't a miniatures wargame like Warhammer 40k; it's a tile-based abstract Euro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the diagrams of what a &quot;straight line&quot; means from the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRXNe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Moving the Gardener&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/etz2w.png&quot; alt=&quot;Moving the Panda&quot;&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the &quot;straight line&quot; limitation simply means that movement must be across shared edges of tiles, in a straight line, rather than &quot;around the bend&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T11:57:37.497" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T13:28:09.913" Score="2" ViewCount="855" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Unlife&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has ten poison counters, he loses the game, so you just need to get your opponent to zero, then deal ten more damage to him. He'll take it in the form of poison counters, and lose. It will buy him time - maybe he was almost dead and suddenly you need to get him to 0 then deal ten more damage - but he's not invincible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading this it got me thinking; and correct me if I have missed something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are at 1 life, and you get hit by a  5/5 creature, do you get 4 poison counters, or none, as you are now at zero life? (Excluding trample of course.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, once you're at zero life, can you gain 1 life and repeat this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8012" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T14:07:49.013" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T14:07:49.013" Title="Phyrexian unlife and life gain" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18190" CreationDate="2014-07-11T13:52:13.813" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not get any poison counters in that case. All damage is done simultaneously, and at the time you took damage you were at 1 life, not 0 or less life. So, you will take 5 normal damage, and be at -4 life. Normally you would lose now, but Phyrexian Unlife keeps you alive instead, and the next time you would take damage, that damage will be in the form of poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do gain life to above 0 again, then Phyrexian Unlife will again stop you from losing the next time you take damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, trample does not interact in anyway with this, so when you say &quot;Excluding trample of course&quot; it makes me think that there's a basic rule you aren't understanding about how combat or trample works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T13:52:13.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18185" CreationDate="2014-07-11T14:34:36.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Panda/Gardener are located on a tile, not the edge of one. They move from a tile to an adjacent tile, where an adjacent tile is one that shares a side with the current tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving in a straight line means that after moving to an adjacent tile, you can continue moving by exiting tiles on the side opposite of the one you entered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the Panda could move from tile A to tile B since they are adjacent. It could also move from A to C since A and C are on opposite sides of B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    / \     / \     / \   &#xA;  /     \ /     \ /     \&#xA; |   A===|===B===|==&amp;gt;C   |&#xA; |       |       |       |&#xA;  \     / \     / \     / \&#xA;    \ /     \ /     \ /     \&#xA;     |   D   |       |   E   |&#xA;     |       |       |       |&#xA;      \     /         \     /&#xA;        \ /             \ /&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could move the panda from D to B, but that's as far as you can go since there is no tile on the opposite side of B. You cannot move to D to E because of the gap between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T16:59:52.173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T16:59:52.173" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18194" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:11:46.020" Score="4" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in an Arkham location when I drew an encounter that stated: &#xA;'Go to the Dreamlands,  have an encounter there and then immediately return' &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The encounter in the Dreamlands required a skill check,  which upon failure stated that I had to stay there for my next turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I failed the check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these takes precedence?  Do I return immediately,  regardless of what the second encounter said or do I stay there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:23:56.070" Title="Which effect takes precedence?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18193" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:23:56.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I doubt there's an official rule to cover this. The possibilities I can think of, with my favorite bolded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You aren't delayed at all - you just return. Seems too...nice for Arkham, like you're cheating your way out of the bad effects of an encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are delayed, so you stay in the Dreamlands one more turn then return to your original location.&lt;/strong&gt; I think this makes the most sense in terms of the ideas of the cards - you fall asleep, end up in the Dreamlands, and you wake back up as soon as you're done with whatever you find yourself doing there. In this case you find yourself stuck there, so you have to wait until you stop being stuck there to be done and wake back up. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are delayed and also return immediately, so you're stuck in your original location for an extra turn. If you squint at the rules, this seems totally logical: &quot;stay here next turn&quot; = &quot;delayed&quot; = &quot;skip your next movement&quot;. It just feels a little weird flavor-wise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are delayed so you miss out on your chance to return to Arkham so you're stuck in the Dreamlands. If you really want to go by the spirit of &quot;the worst possible thing always happens to you in Arkham&quot;, this is your option, but turning a mostly-benign Arkham encounter into a waste of several turns (delayed, stand up, move, try to return and get lost in time and space...) seems pretty excessive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:23:56.070" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18172" CreationDate="2014-07-11T15:32:00.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Continuing to play is good in that you get plenty of practice, but one thing I have found in other games is that is far more effective coupled with recording your games and then running them back through some form of automated analysis. This will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;point out your errors, obviously, so you don't repeat them,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;over time, give a clear picture of where your &lt;em&gt;consistent&lt;/em&gt; errors are, so that you can work on them with outside materials like books,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and just as importantly, give you positive feedback when you play well!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In games involving chance this is even more helpful, to avoid the trap of doing what happened to work in the past (which may have been wrong, but which happened to result in good consequences). Even in chess there is some degree of chance, in the sense that a blunder may go unpunished by a fallible opponent. There simply isn't time to read every book, so you need to isolate the parts of your game that need a book most. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T15:32:00.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18158" CreationDate="2014-07-11T16:12:57.623" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This behaviour isn't acceptable, but it's not really your responsibility, particularly if you're relatively new to the club.  If you're feeling brave, you could mention it directly (and privately) to your partner, perhaps over a cup of coffee. It may be that he or she has gradually fallen into bad habits, and genuinely doesn't see anything unusual, in which case a newcomer's viewpoint would be welcome. It may be that simply saying &quot;that makes me feel uncomfortable, so I can't concentrate on the cards&quot; offers a way for both of you to save face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't feel like doing that (and I reiterate that as a newcomer you should not appear to tell others what to do) speak to the director, or a committee member, privately. Again, a cup of coffee before or after the session is the best time. It may be (though unlikely) that this sort of behaviour is tolerated, in which case you either adjust or find another club; but at least you will know. More likely, a quiet word from somebody your partner respects (old friend or doyen of the club) will be in order.  Even if it doesn't work, you have made it clear that you object to bad behaviour, and won't be tarred with the same brush if you wish to find a new partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, this has come up at my club more than once. One person was grateful for a warning: one was too set in his ways to change, and now only plays with an understanding partner and is restrained by the director from criticising those who will take it badly: and one decided that (for that among other reasons) she would give up playing duplicate. Make of that what you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T16:12:57.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-11T19:44:33.800" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here’s a problem a friend of mine posed to me a long time ago, that I was recently reminded of. I figured, with modern computing, there might be some way to figure it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that there are two set of 52 cards, 13 of each of four sets. Now, for the purpose of a game, each card of the first deck becomes associated with one card in the other card such that, say, A♠ = 5♣.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second set follows these conditions:&#xA;1.) No card may be it’s own twin&#xA;2.) No card may appear twice&#xA;3.) Four of a kind in the normal deck may not repeat suits in the second deck. &#xA;4.) Any poker run in a normal deck (straight, flush) must be disrupted in the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a set of cards that matches these conditions? And if so, what is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8014" LastEditorUserId="8014" LastEditDate="2014-07-11T20:13:23.663" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T20:30:58.857" Title="Bizzaro Playing Cards" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-07-11T21:21:56.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18197" CreationDate="2014-07-11T20:30:58.857" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that (1) and (2) are satisfied by any &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Derangement&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;derangement&lt;/a&gt; of the cards. There are probably many &quot;mappings&quot; that satisfy your conditions, but since all you seek is one possible answer, I propose the following solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the values, map them in this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A -&gt; 2, 2 -&gt; 4, 3-&gt; 6, 4 -&gt; 8, 5 -&gt; 10, 6 -&gt; Q, 7 -&gt; A, 8 -&gt; 3, 9 -&gt; 5, 10 -&gt; 7, J -&gt; 9, Q -&gt; J, K -&gt; K&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then: A234567890JQK -&gt; 24680QA3579JK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly any straight will not map to any straight. And because any 4 of a kind maps to a 4 of a kind, there won't be any suit duplication (your condition 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the suits, consider some order of the suits [clubs, diamonds, hearts, spades]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For values A-4: map to the same suit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For values 5-8: map to the next suit (e.g. clubs -&gt; diamonds, spades -&gt; clubs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For values 9-Q: map to the previous suit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For K: map to the &quot;opposite suit&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then any flush (which consists of 5 cards of the same suit) cannot map to a flush, because you cannot obtain more than 4 cards of the same suit if you start with a flush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that changing the suit of the K resolves the issue where K -&gt; K, since it is required that no card be its own &quot;twin&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-07-11T20:30:58.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21450" CreationDate="2014-07-11T23:29:25.507" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an example, an investigator had the item &lt;code&gt;Flute of The Outer Gods&lt;/code&gt;, which takes 3 stamina and 3 sanity to use and immedietly defeats all monsters in the investigators location. If using the item reduced either the sanity or stamina to 0, does the effect still come in to effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this apply to all items that require you to lose either sanity or stamina?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a duplicate of: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3543/how-does-flute-of-the-outer-gods-work-in-arkham-horror-and-when-should-i-use-buy&quot;&gt;How does Flute of the Outer Gods work in Arkham Horror and when should I use/buy it?&lt;/a&gt; although the answer there is relavent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is asking about items in general and not just the &lt;code&gt;Flute of The Outer Gods&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T23:16:46.067" Title="Does an item effect still occur if you go insanse/unconscious using it?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T02:33:28.257" Score="5" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Trade Route in play, do you replace the coins on the victory cards after the first card is purchased?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: I buy a Duchy and move the coin to the Trade Route mat.  Do I put another coin token on the remaining stack of Duchies? Or is four the maximum number of coins on the Trade Route mat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8016" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T09:17:02.503" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:21:27.567" Title="Do you replace tokens moved to the Trade Route mat?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18200" CreationDate="2014-07-12T02:58:03.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not replace them, but four is not the maximum number of coins: the kingdom may include victory cards like Harem, Gardens, or Feodum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T02:58:03.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18200" CreationDate="2014-07-12T02:58:18.187" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not replace the coin tokens. So with Colonies in the game, and no other extra victory cards, yes, four is the maximum number of coins on the mat. Remember that there potentially are other victory cards among the kingdom cards in the game, though, depending on what expansions you're playing with - like Gardens from the base game, and many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because the card doesn't say to. If you're ever having trouble with Dominion rules, just read the card carefully, and do exactly what it says in the order it says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T02:58:18.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2014-07-12T04:43:35.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normaly, you can trade city card on the city of that card. So, I suggest that you can trade city black card on a black city, blue one on a blue city, yellow on yellow and red on red. That way, you still restricted but it'll be easyer. It'll make a donw grade for the Researcher but...  your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8017" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T04:43:35.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18215" CreationDate="2014-07-12T05:00:23.520" Score="5" ViewCount="45426" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting ready to invest in the 2015 MTG Core Set and I'm confused by some of the offerings.  What is the difference between: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic: the Gathering - 2015 Core Set Deck Builder's Toolkit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic: the Gathering - 2015 Core Set / M15 - Sealed Fat Pack (9 Booster Packs &amp;amp; More)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sealed fat pack seems to have other accessories like deck boxes (which I'm not really interested in).  I'm mainly just curious about the cards themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the toolkit have inferior cards compared to the fat pack? If I were to compete with just cards from the deck builder's toolkit, would I be at a horrible disadvantage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T19:44:54.540" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T03:33:57.950" Title="How Is the Magic Core Set 2015 &quot;Deck Builder's Toolkit&quot; Different From Other Core Set Offerings With Respect To Cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T06:18:00.093" Score="2" ViewCount="9643" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; on the field and a creature token dies, does Athreos' effect trigger and they automatically lose three health because I can't return a token to my hand, or does it not because its a &amp;quot;creature token&amp;quot; that dies and not a &amp;quot;creature&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T06:45:41.543" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T01:29:00.253" Title="How does Athreos, God of Passage respond to creature tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18205" CreationDate="2014-07-12T06:45:14.567" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of these scenarios happen. What does happen is called out in a ruling on Athreos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4/26/2014: Athreos’s last ability will trigger if a token creature you own dies. The target opponent has the option to pay 3 life, although the token can’t return to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers as normal, since a creature died, even if it's a token. Your opponent is still given the choice to pay 3 life or pay nothing &amp;mdash; no choice is made &quot;automatically&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, tokens cease to exist after they leave the battlefield. Even if your opponent declines to pay 3 life, the token won't ever enter your hand - it's already gone to the graveyard and will cease to exist there. So the result is the same either way: the token disappears. Naturally, your opponent is likely to just not pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T01:29:00.253" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T01:29:00.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2014-07-12T15:46:17.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deal in a 'phantom' 3rd player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play them as a normal player with the following exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Roll d6. (1-3) they are player 2.  (4-6) they are player 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may make a big difference when resolving cards that specifically affect&#xA;  the player to their immediate left or right.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine the method to offer help or interfere with other players during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1:  Roll d6 at the beginning of each current players turn.&#xA;             On (1-3) offer help, on (4-6) interfere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2:  If the current player is Lvl 1-5, always offer help.&#xA;             If the current player is Lvl 6-9, always interfere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On their turn, the phantom player must always:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Carry any items they have in hand, if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must change race and/or class each time one of these cards are drawn by them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never goes &quot;looking for trouble&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only sell items in their hand to go up a level.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never trades with, bribes, or extorts, other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never asks for help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Out of turn, the phantom player must always:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Offer help or interfere with the current player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play minimal cards necessary to affect victory or defeat of the current player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8020" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T15:46:17.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-12T19:35:46.337" Score="2" ViewCount="20715" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play a spell that makes an opponent discard a card, but they have no cards in their hand, would they have to discard those cards from their library, or would nothing happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8023" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-11-26T15:34:57.157" LastActivityDate="2018-11-26T15:34:57.157" Title="You have to discard, but have no cards in your hand" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18208" CreationDate="2014-07-12T19:51:45.610" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He is instructed to discard a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.7a To discard a card, move it from its owner’s hand to that player’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible for him to discard a card, so he does as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not affect him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-12T20:12:12.960" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T20:12:12.960" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18205" CreationDate="2014-07-12T20:09:35.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a creature, so Athreos's ability does trigger, but the token ceases to exist before the ability resolves, so the token cannot be returned to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature is a card or token on the battlefield which has the type &amp;quot;creature&amp;quot;. Also, a creature token on the battlefield does die (get moved to the graveyard) when it's destroyed just like creature cards on the battlefield. As such, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt;'s ability does trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But before Athreos's ability resolves — in fact before it's placed on the stack and anyone can respond to it — stated-based actions have caused it to cease to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Even if it didn't cease to exist, it still wouldn't go to your hand since a token that's left the battlefield cannot be moved to another zone.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of that stops Athreos's ability from being placed on the stack and from resolving. The targeted opponent could still choose to pay the cost, but there's no incentive for him to do so. Because the token no longer exists, it cannot be returned to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5f A token that’s phased out, or that’s in a zone other than the battlefield, ceases to exist. This is a state-based action; see rule 704. (Note that if a token changes zones, applicable triggered abilities will trigger before the token ceases to exist.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5g A token that has left the battlefield can’t move to another zone or come back onto the battlefield. If such a token would change zones, it remains in its current zone instead. It ceases to exist the next time state-based actions are checked; see rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-07-12T20:09:35.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18212" CreationDate="2014-07-13T02:24:20.630" Score="2" ViewCount="1691" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphist%27s%20Jest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Polymorphist's Jest&lt;/a&gt; says each creature target player controls loses all abilities and becomes a blue Frog with a base power and toughness 1/1. My question is...  how would this work with Emrakul? Like let's say a player attacks with Emrakul, you cast Polymoprhist's Jest and then lightning bolt Emrakul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is that the defending player would still have to sacrifice six permanents because the attack is earlier in the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And when Emrakul hits the graveyard does it go into the graveyard and stay there or does the graveyard still get shuffled into the library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T21:46:23.683" Title="polymorphist's jest and emrakul" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18211" CreationDate="2014-07-13T02:53:37.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Defending player will still have to sacrifice 6 permenants, and Emrakul and the rest of the graveyard will still be shuffled into the controller's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anailator still happens, not exactly because the attack is earlier in the stack like you say (&quot;the attack&quot; doesn't go on the stack). But as soon as Emrakul is declared as an attacker, the &quot;when attacks&quot; ability triggers and goes in the stack. After that, it doesn't matter what happens to Emrakul. Best to kill it in the beginning of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It still gets shuffled back in because that trigger happens &quot;when it is put into the graveyard&quot;. And by that time, it's back to normal, sitting in the graveyard with its abilities. Note that if it said &quot;when Emrakul dies...&quot; instead, then it would NOT be shuffled back in, because when it dies triggers care about the state of the object as it was on battlefield, and the ability didn't exist in the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T02:53:37.977" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18216" CreationDate="2014-07-13T15:06:12.700" Score="15" ViewCount="35068" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a +1/+1 counter I get from, say Unleash or Undying different than +1/+1 from something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spear%20of%20Heliod&quot;&gt;Spear of Heliod&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Waves&quot;&gt;Master of Waves&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8029" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T17:33:29.770" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T16:07:00.690" Title="Are +1/+1 counters different from +1/+1 effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2014-07-13T15:30:45.950" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what cards you have and what you are interested in becoming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you are a beginning Magic player&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e., you have no cards at all) &lt;strong&gt;then I would suggest getting the Deck Builder's Toolkit.&lt;/strong&gt; This includes plenty of cards from all 5 colors, and you can easily craft a (fairly weak) deck from what you get out of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should also come with 4 booster packs, which is nice, and the 100 lands, which you will really need. However, you will probably only get 4 rares out of the kit (the 4 rares from the booster pack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you at least have a collection of Magic cards, and want to get powerful rares, I would suggest getting a fat pack.&lt;/strong&gt; They include 9 booster packs, so you are guaranteed at least 9 rares, though you have a good chance at getting foil rares or mythic rares (or both!). You will also get 80 lands, which is nice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the toolkit have inferior cards compared to the fat pack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The toolkit will come with 5 rares in the fixed card pool, plus 4-5 rares from the booster packs &amp;mdash; and you will get a good amount of decent uncommons and commons to work with. The fat pack will come with at least 9 rares with a high chance of pulling a mythic rare, and will also include 27 uncommons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I were to compete with just cards from the deck builder's toolkit, would I be at a horrible disadvantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It all depends on who you are playing with. Just playing kitchen table Magic, you should be fine if you play with people who buy basic decks. However, at a tournament, you will get eaten alive by pretty much everyone. (Even some casual players with decent decks will destroy you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note, &lt;strong&gt;buying a fat pack is not really a good way to start, either,&lt;/strong&gt; because although you will get those powerful cards you need in a deck, you won't get the &quot;backbone&quot; that your deck needs to survive. For example, you may get a powerful late game card from the fat pack, but if you don't have the cards to stay alive that long, that card is pretty much worthless in your deck. The Deck Builder's Toolkit has cards to help you in that circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion: it all depends on your circumstance. If you have no cards at the moment, buy a Deck Builder's Toolkit. If you have a good base of cards to work with, buy a Fat Pack. (If you have the money, I would suggest buying both!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8029" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T09:12:39.710" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T09:12:39.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18214" CreationDate="2014-07-13T17:32:49.277" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, effects that grant +1+/1 are very different than +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Spear of Heliod, you have a static ability with a continuous effect that grants +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Undying, you have a triggered ability with a one-shot effect that grants a counter that grants +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the difference between what grants the +1/+1. It's the effect granting the +1/+1 in one case, and it's the counter in the other case. This matters because the +1/+1 will only be granted as long as the granter exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The +1/+1 from the continuous effect will last as long as the continuous effect exists. In the case of the effects from static abilities, that's as long as the card with the static ability is on the battlefield. In the case of effects created by the resolution of a spell or ability, that's as long as stated (e.g. &quot;until end of turn&quot;), or indefinitely if a duration isn't stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The +1/+1 granted by the counter will last as long as the counter exists. These normally go away when the permanent on which they reside ceases to exist, although there are cards that can  manipulate counters (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClockspinning%5d&quot;&gt;Clockspinning&lt;/a&gt;), and granting a -1/-1 counter will cause both the +1/+1 and the -1/-1 counter to be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another difference is that counters are represented by physical objects (e.g. glass beads or dice used as counters), but effects aren't represented physically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-01-16T16:07:00.690" LastActivityDate="2018-01-16T16:07:00.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18214" CreationDate="2014-07-13T17:34:23.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are completely different. A counter is a physical object that you place on your creature card to show that some effect is being applied. In your example, both would have the result of increasing your creature's strength and toughness by 1, but counters have all sorts of things that interact with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T17:34:23.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18214" CreationDate="2014-07-13T17:36:23.730" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, +1/+1 counters are different from effects that give +1/+1. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Counter_(marker)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Counters&lt;/a&gt; are physical markers that can be added, removed, or moved around. Effects that give +1/+1 are separate from the creature, and go away when the effect runs out or the permanent causing the effect leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important difference here is the difference between &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/One-Shot_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;one-shot effects&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;continuous effects&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A one-shot effect happens all at once, and then finishes. Damage, card draw, life gain, and adding counters are all one-shot effects. The important thing here is that the outcome stays around after the effect ends (well, damage gets cleared at the end of turns, but that's a separate rule). This means that once a creature gets a counter, the counter stays on it until it dies or something else does something to the counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A continuous ability, on the other hand, usually has either a limited timespan or is tied to a permanent. Spear of Heliod's first ability is a static ability creating a continuous effect. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; also creates a continuous effect that lasts until the end of the turn. In those cases, your creatures only get the +1/+1 (or the +3/+3) until Spear of Heliod leaves the battlefield, or until your turn ends in Giant Growth's case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-13T17:54:38.997" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T17:54:38.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18219" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18220" CreationDate="2014-07-13T20:05:31.763" Score="6" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Small World, after conquering region for loosing player rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Permanently discard one Race token back into the Storage tray&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm not totally sure what does that mean. For most races there really is no difference, but for skeletons and sorcerers I see two interpretations that lead to two different results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move tokens back to the box/tray from where you took them, this means that skeletons and sorcerers can use them again, that is their maximum token count is not affected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move tokens back to the box, and not to the tray where you took them from. Meaning that maximum possible count for skeletons and sorcerers would be decreased this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I understand that tray is place where you take tokens from, the word &quot;permanently&quot; is a bit confusing. I have been playing by second interpretation so far, and it seems kinda fairer. Though I'm not sure if this is the intended way to play game. Though difference would most likely be minor, only two races are affected, and the number of tokens is quite large and hard to deplete. Still theres a difference! So anyone knows what how this should be handled officially?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7808" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T03:25:36.963" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T03:25:36.963" Title="Small World, what does &quot;permanently discard&quot; mean?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18219" CreationDate="2014-07-13T21:06:33.783" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because it says &quot;back into the Storage tray&quot;, it is the first option; Skeletons and Sorcerers can reuse them. Note the limitation in the rules for both Skeletons and Sorcerers: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are no more tokens &lt;strong&gt;in the storage tray&lt;/strong&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Skeletons and Sorcerers state that the new unit comes &quot;from the storage tray&quot;, and the rules for the loosing player state that the killed unit goes &quot;to the storage tray&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-13T21:06:33.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18223" CreationDate="2014-07-14T01:30:48.990" Score="5" ViewCount="2784" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to get an outbreak until the first epidemic has occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such the placement of the first epidemic in the player deck has a large effect on the game. If near the bottom, it allows the players to go through several turns before the game starts become risky. At that point they may have already cleaned up most of the disease cubes and largely mitigated the risk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course, having more epidemic cards in the deck increases the chance that one will be near the top. Also - if one isn't near the top, then it means that there's a higher concentration of later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However this does still seem like quite an unkiltering dynamic of the game, where a large amount of how the game goes is down to luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - does this dynamic have a significant effect on the game, and how can it be mitigated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One option I've considered, is that you might shuffle all except one card into the player deck, and then take the top 10 cards off, and without looking, shuffle the last one in. So there's guaranteed to be an epidemic in the first 11 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T22:31:17.030" Title="Pandemic's difficulty seems to rest on the placement of the first epidemic card in the deck" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18221" CreationDate="2014-07-14T03:38:19.910" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that you are not shuffling the location deck correctly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are supposed to split the deck as evenly as possible into piles, one for each epidemic, and ensure that there is one epidemic card in each of those four decks. Shuffle these decks separately and then put them on top of each other to create the main deck from which you draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-07-15T10:26:30.533" LastActivityDate="2014-07-15T10:26:30.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18221" CreationDate="2014-07-14T03:39:20.867" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot;&gt;the official instructions&lt;/a&gt; (page 3), the player deck is prepared by first splitting it into multiple piles of roughly-equal size (one pile per Epidemic card) and shuffling exactly one Epidemic card into each pile.  These piles are then stacked on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even in an easy 4-Epidemic game, there will guaranteed be one Epidemic card in the top quarter of the deck (which, being a &lt;strike&gt;59-card&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;strike&gt;57-card&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;strike&gt;49-card&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;strike&gt;48-card&lt;/strike&gt; reasonably-sized deck, would be within the first &lt;strike&gt;15&lt;/strike&gt; 12 cards or so); this could be on the &lt;em&gt;bottom&lt;/em&gt; of the top quarter, yes, but it's impossible for it to be anywhere near the bottom of the &lt;em&gt;deck&lt;/em&gt;.  And even if it is on the bottom of the top quarter, it wouldn't affect the concentration of the remaining three at all, since they're shuffled independently into the second, third and fourth quarters of the deck respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as concentration is concerned, the absolute worst case scenario is that you'll get two Epidemic cards in a row; one from the very bottom of its quarter, and the second from the very top of the next quarter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while yes, exactly where the first Epidemic occurs in the deck could have a significant effect on how the rest of the game plays out, it's not near as problematic as you've presented as long as the deck is prepared properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T22:31:17.030" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T22:31:17.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18225" CreationDate="2014-07-14T05:01:48.433" Score="5" ViewCount="6696" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383328&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissa, Worldwaker&lt;/a&gt; turns lands into 4/4 Elemental creatures. My question is...  what color are these tokens? Are they green, the color that the land in question produces, or are they colorless since the card doesn't specify?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T05:41:31.360" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T17:22:50.157" Title="What color are Nissa, Worldwaker's lands?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18224" CreationDate="2014-07-14T05:09:47.437" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally lands are colorless (there is currently only one exception). Nissa does not assign a color to the lands she turns into elementals, so they would remain colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting, there are no tokens created. I am not exactly sure what you mean by this. What happens when you use Nissa's ability is that a land &lt;em&gt;becomes&lt;/em&gt; a 4/4 Elemental creature, while also retaining its previous properties as a land (tapping for mana, having the &quot;Land&quot; type, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T17:22:50.157" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T17:22:50.157" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2014-07-14T12:57:56.253" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always played that if you make two words at once and they are sharing a bonus square only one of those words gets the bonus score&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8034" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T12:57:56.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18224" CreationDate="2014-07-14T14:18:42.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2. An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2b Objects with no colored mana symbols in their mana costs are colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2e An object may have a color indicator printed to the left of the type line. That object is each color denoted by that color indicator. (See rule 204.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2f Effects may change an object’s color, give a color to a colorless object, or make a colored object become colorless; see rule 105.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The land-become-creature has no mana symbols in its mana cost, it has no color indicator, and no continuous effect sets its color, so it is colorless. Just like it was before becoming a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previously mentioned, there are no token involved. A token is a created object that isn't represented by a card. No object is created, some characteristic of the cards have simply changed. Just like when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T14:25:03.127" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T14:25:03.127" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18230" CreationDate="2014-07-14T19:08:03.970" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Carcassonne: New World&lt;/em&gt;, you need to move the eastmost surveyor one tile to the west every time a feature is completed &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; scored. However, it is quite possible to finish a feature while both surveyors already are on the westmost tile(s). How to proceed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see several possible options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move a surveyor one step to the west, to where the next column is going to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not move a surveyor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw an extra tile, place that to the west of the westmost tile and place the surveyor on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation is not found in the rules, at least not in my version (in Dutch, where the game is called &lt;em&gt;Carcassonne: Mayflower&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/34615/new-world-carcassonne-game#results_7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ at BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; says that option 2 is the correct one. It does seem the most likely, but is there an official source for that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T20:45:57.157" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T11:01:56.803" Title="Do you move a surveyor when they are already on the westmost tile?" Tags="|carcassonne-new-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18229" CreationDate="2014-07-14T19:19:53.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While searching a bit more, I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_262_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules of the American version&lt;/a&gt;. They state quite clearly that surveyors don't move if they can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T11:01:56.803" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T11:01:56.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18232" CreationDate="2014-07-14T19:30:30.733" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Carcassonne: New World&lt;/em&gt;, the game doesn't start with a single start tile but with a board representing a coastline, that of the East Coast of the USA. It is divided by lines to mimic tiles, against which the players' tiles are placed. When scoring a feature that contains these starting 'tiles', are these counted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T20:47:24.617" Title="Are 'tiles' that are part of the coastline counted when scoring?" Tags="|carcassonne-new-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18231" CreationDate="2014-07-14T19:30:30.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Again, US rules to the rescue. My Dutch rules do not include these examples, but in the scoring examples in &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_262_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules of the US version&lt;/a&gt;, one of the examples shows a trail (this would be a road in regular Carcassonne) that consists of two tiles and two tile-sized sections of the starting board. The score is calculated using all four tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2014-08-13T20:47:24.617" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T20:47:24.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-14T20:17:17.743" Score="7" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you trash a card that you have already played, when remodelling? E.g. I play a village, then a Worksop, then Remodel - trashing the Workshop I just played? It says from your hand, but am unclear if there is a distinction between hand and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8038" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T20:39:28.993" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T21:54:24.083" Title="Dominion remodel card -can I trash a card already played?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18234" CreationDate="2014-07-14T20:30:44.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have played the card, then it is on the table, not in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T20:30:44.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18234" CreationDate="2014-07-14T21:20:00.660" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot do this. Your &quot;hand&quot; always refers to cards that you physically keep in your hand. Cards that you have played this turn are in a different place, the &quot;in-play&quot; area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 6 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=348&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To play an Action, the player takes an Action card from his hand&#xA;  and lays it face-up in his play area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pages 9 and 10 also show picture examples of the different places cards might be; including hand, deck, discard, or in-play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-14T21:54:24.083" LastActivityDate="2014-07-14T21:54:24.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18238" CreationDate="2014-07-15T10:32:11.650" Score="3" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;When setting up for Arkham, you are instructed to draw a Mythos card in order to place the first gate and monster(s). &#xA;Is it correct to resolve any headline that causes additional monsters to spawn? e.g. 2 monsters are released in the rivertown streets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is that this occured in the last game we played and we were immediately on the back foot with two relatively weaker investigators 'trapped' by these monsters on the streets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T11:36:29.743" Title="Mythos Card Resolution During Setup" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18237" CreationDate="2014-07-15T11:45:13.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do as per the setup &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Support/Arkham_Horror_Rules_Lo-Res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;14. DRAW AND RESOLVE MYTHOS CARD&#xA;Finally, the first player draws the top card of the mythos&#xA;deck and resolves it as described in the Mythos Phase&#xA;section of the rules.&#xA;...&#xA;After the mythos card has been completely resolved, the&#xA;first turn begins, starting with the first player.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are beginners, you may want to forgo #14 and only apply ongoing effects of the first mythos card, rather than the active effects (such as the one you encountered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T08:04:42.913" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T08:04:42.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13176" CreationDate="2014-07-16T01:24:26.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If you are able to perform the Merchant's action, you must. This does involve a certain amount of trust, since you do not have to reveal your tiles to prove that you cannot perform the action. (On that point I would paraphrase the Love Letter rulebook on a similar point, which says &quot;Don't play with cheaters&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook, page 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using a special action is mandatory unless otherwise written on the card. If the action is impossible, it is ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T01:24:26.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18221" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:18:24.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While an early Epidemic card can really heat things up and deprive you of the reprieve the group needs, the # of Epidemic cards and # of players are just as important.  In fact, playing with only 2p is roughly the equivalent of one difficulty level easier vs. 4p games.  For example, a 4p game with 4 Epidemic cards (Easy mode IIRC) is roughly the same as a 2p game with 5 Epidemic cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And make sure you shuffle the cards in piles, with each pile containing only 1 Epidemic card!  If some of the piles are a bit uneven, the rulebook tells you to arrange the smaller piles at the bottom of the deck, in your favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:18:24.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18200" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:21:27.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trade Route tokens are never replaced.  They're either on the Victory cards or on the Trade Route mat.  Remember that if you gain a card, you also transfer the token over to the mat.  Last but not least, each Victory card, whether it's a starter card (e.g. Estate, Duchy, Province, Colony) or Kingdom card (e.g. Garden, Fairground, etc.) starts off with a token on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:21:27.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:23:33.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card Warden for Ipad lets you keep track of many different card types and some metadata you've mentioned, but otherwise, you may be better off just setting up your own database with MySQL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:23:33.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16626" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:33:00.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tradeoffs are often the usual case... with more complexity, there's a higher learning curve, and all other factors being equal, the game takes longer.  However, you do get more depth, strategies, and things to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Features vary between publisher (e.g. Kosmos vs. Mayfair) and edition (3rd edition and 4th edition Seafarers have some maps that are NOT in the other), but overall.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seafarers adds new scenarios, or otherwise known as map layouts.  They don't just slightly rearrange some tiles around.  Some have 4 islands, other have a &quot;fog of war&quot; where you flip tiles over as you discover them.  There's also a Gold resource when you get, you immediately get a resource of your choice.  Special conditions, like building on a foreign island gets you a bonus +1 VP.  You can build ships to get a passageway over beach or water edges of tiles.  The pirate ship can be used to halt building of ships, and steal a card like the robber&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C&amp;amp;K replaces the Development cards with Progress cards.  They come in 3 different decks, and you can't buy them.  You need to earn them through die rolls and tech.  You can physically place knights on the board to do some minor shenanigans (like chasing away a opponent robber, or opponent's knight that's blocking a settlement spot), but they primarily are to defend against the Barbarian.  There's a separate track for the Barbarian, and when it occurs, they either reduce a city to a settlement, or if the collective strength of every is enough, rewards may be doled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Metropolis is like in-breadth Largest Army that's 3-wide (there are 3 different ones of them), and there are also a new resource called Commodities that correspond with the traditional resources (Wood and paper, ore and coin, sheep and cloth).  The commodities are used to upgrade your tech calendar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:33:00.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12416" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:35:17.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With C&amp;amp;K, it should be 13pts FTW.  Even with Harbor Master, it shouldn't up that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harbor Master gives you 2pts, and with only 2p, there should be enough room to build and get to 13 or 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it really does drag on, consider calling it after x # of time, or the next time the Barbarians strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:35:17.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16622" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:40:30.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not get change.  And be sure to note the proper terminology and attributes of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white triangle = runes = money to buy stuff&#xA;Red circle = power = strength to kill monsters in the CR (Center Row)&#xA;The star = honor = victory points that win you the game.  The plastic gems that come with the game (cardboard tokens in the Apprentice Edition) are also honor added as part of your total score&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top right of the card shows the card's cost to purchase in runes, or to defeat with power (vs. Monsters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bottom left (star) shows how much honor you get at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing cards that give you runes (like Mystics), they add to your total # of runes to spend.  You do NOT get handed out plastic rune or coin tokens when playing them.  You keep track of them &quot;in your head&quot;. If you played 3 Mystics, that's $6 (or runes).  You purchase a $3 card, now you have $3 left.  You may then purchase another $3 card.  You now have $0 left, so you end your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:40:30.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="149" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:45:28.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can certainly place Race while in your own &quot;bubble&quot;.  Many newbies do this since they're still learning and have too many things to worry about.  However, even though there's no direct or negative interaction (well, exp #2 and exp #3 add takeovers, but you can't always count on that anyways), being able to anticipate what others will call so you can leech off of them, and avoiding phases that help others, while calling phases that help you more are what separate those who win disproportionately more games vs. luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;heck, uou can even play war games or their rough equivalent like Civilization the Board game, Small World, or Eclipse in your own bubble, but you especially want to pay attention to others here too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:45:28.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2702" CreationDate="2014-07-16T05:49:55.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a whole lotta depth to SJ.  After playing many games digitally and IRL, SJ got bland for me, whereas, I still continue playing RftG.  These days, the SJ exp needs to be included for me to play SJ, and this is still vs. base game RftG.  On the plus side, SJ with the exp is still easier to teach than base game RftG, so I don't feel bad pushing SJ + exp on non-gamers or those otherwise not able to handle Race.  That's the one con of RftG... if you're teaching it to a newbie and he's only going to play it once, it may not be as worth it.  Back to back games are nice, but even once every week or even month can cut it, but if it's a game he won't play again for another year or 8 months, then... :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of which, you can install a Window's version of RftG here (Keldon's AI.  Works on OSX and Linux, bjut with some alternate compiling)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://keldon.net/rftg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://keldon.net/rftg/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the highly recommended UI patch here (just copy the files to the same install directory)...&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7379896/rftg/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7379896/rftg/index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SJ base game can be found on iOS (AppStore) and the Java version for PC below...&#xA;http:// www.compoundeye.net/jsanjuan/&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search for Condado on Google Play for SJ with exp for Android&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Race indeed has more depth in where with RftG...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-almost every decision point and turn is done simultaneously&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-you can also get VP by earning VP chips (unlike SJ where everything's strictly pts from buildings)&#xA;-another end condition is also running the VP chip pool dry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-it's not just one type of building phase... the &quot;buildings&quot; in Race are divided into Developments and worlds, and each have their own phases for when they can be built.&#xA;-the worlds are divided into military worlds and non-military worlds.  As you've seen, non-mili-worlds cost $$, but can always be built if you can wrangle enough wealth.  OTOH, you can have all the wealth your hand limit will allow... but if you're one military strength short of a conquering a mili-world's defense, it's useless to you.  If you can afford it though... it's free :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-you have temporary cards that get discarded from Tableau... granted that the Crane in SJ does have a unique mechanic that lets you build over buildings, which RftG won't come to a close equivalent until exp #3's Terraforming Engineers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-the lesser types of goods can be VERY valuable... the blue goods can be sold for more cards due to trade specific powers for blue.  Otherwise, lots of blue goods means you overall got those worlds for cheap and have more &quot;power&quot; in producing and consuming (converting goods to VP).  In SJ, it's linear... Silver is almost always superior to Indigo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-the 6-cost devs in RftG (that give variable pts) also have powers, whereas the 6-costs in SJ are strictly for points... no engine boost whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;many people compare RftG and SJ and consider them to be more similar to each other than RftG vs. Puerto Rico (PR).  The comparisons are far from black and white...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RftG &amp;amp; SJ: are similar due to them both being card games of that nature (using cards in hand to pay for other cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SJ &amp;amp; PR: both have the same theme... Governer, Library, indigo, coffee, markets, and that part of the world during that time period&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RftG &amp;amp; PR: both have a mechanic to convert goods to VP, multiple end conditions, reasons to get inferior goods vs. the better ones, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T05:49:55.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18250" CreationDate="2014-07-16T10:54:52.553" Score="2" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brindle%20Boar&quot;&gt;Brindle Boar&lt;/a&gt;. If I block an attacking &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nessian%20Courser&quot;&gt;Nessian Courser&lt;/a&gt; with it and then activate the ability of Brindle Boar, can my opponent interrupt it with say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; to kill it before I can sacrifice it? And in this case, would the full damage go through to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8045" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T18:43:46.260" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T18:43:46.260" Title="If you block an attack, can the blocker be killed with an instant before you can sacrifice it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18249" CreationDate="2014-07-16T11:02:47.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, your opponent does not have an opportunity to react to you paying the cost to activate the boar's ability, and the creature you blocked remains blocked.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not quite work the way you think. To use the Boar's ability you had to pay its cost. Its cost was to sacrifice it. So the boar is gone before any other spell put on the stack would resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature the boar blocked remains blocked, and no damage would go to you. Also your opponent would not be able to target the boar because it would not exist at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules here start with 509.1h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature;...A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the rules for casting a spell, you will see in 601.2g that all costs must be paid before the spell is 'cast'. In the case of the boar's ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sacrifice Brindle Boar: You gain 4 life&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which follows the universal &lt;code&gt;{cost}:{effect}&lt;/code&gt; template of MTG; sacrificing the boar is the cost. Before the ability can go on the stack and priority can pass so your opponent could cast a bolt, the boar must be sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T16:28:23.730" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T16:28:23.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18251" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18252" CreationDate="2014-07-16T13:43:00.343" Score="7" ViewCount="3442" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citadels_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Citadels&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; one of the benefits of your characters is receiving extra gold from buildings of the same colour.  For example, each green building gives one extra gold to the merchant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering; does this bonus start immediately at the beginning of your turn, or can one trigger the bonus at will?  In the last example it could be beneficial to build a new building before triggering the bonus so one gets an extra gold piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do you have to trigger the whole ability at once or can you split it up?  This is especially important for the merchant who already gets 1 gold by default as special ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8046" LastEditorUserId="8046" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T11:27:14.733" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:19:16.267" Title="In Citadels, when do characters get the extra gold from their colour?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18251" CreationDate="2014-07-16T13:45:03.023" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can trigger the bonus before or after building. This means you can either build a building with your existing gold, then trigger the gold collection, OR trigger the gold collection, and use that gold to pay for a new building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you cannot do is gain some of the gold, build the building, and gain the extra gold from building that building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the edit, you always get the merchant's one gold before building.  You can still choose to take his 1 gold per green either before or after building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-07-16T16:28:00.113" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T16:28:00.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9118" CreationDate="2014-07-16T19:13:49.570" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your question directly - yes, I have come across many people,  many times, who were unsure or even adamant that bonus squares should be considered following their intial play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that make it alright? Sure, if every player participating preemptively agrees upon it, much like they must agree to limitations of time, specify what book will settle their disputes should they arise and so forth. Does that make it wrong? Technically, yes it is incorrect but who cares? Anyone considering playing this way is obviously no Joe Edley so naturally they wouldn't! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of Scrabble lay in its malleable nature! In no two parts of the world are there identical rules and conventions set in place that agree with the next game's set of rules;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everybody uses a different dictionary. &#xA;Everybody subscribes to their own personal rendition of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have encountered many people over my lifetime of scrabble who have been confused and or were insistent on this variation you bring to light being The Rule. Though I do not agree that this is a proper rule of the game as its creators and overseers have seen fit to include - I do not see any just cause for stifling your own enjoyment of the game!!! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say play it however the hell you please and let no other signal guide than those variantions that move you :*)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8048" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T19:13:49.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12933" CreationDate="2014-07-16T21:20:12.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, there is a subtle difference between &quot;Banish&quot; and &quot;Put back in the box&quot;. Once you start the third Adventure deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever you banish a bane, you remove it from the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever you banish a boon, you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; remove it from the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...where &quot;remove it from the game&quot; means don't put it back in the appropriate deck in the box. (I set them aside in one of the adventure deck boxes.) This will slowly remove the less powerful cards from the game, increasing the odds of getting more powerful boons (and facing harder monsters and barriers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Banish&quot; is common enough. However, if after a scenario there are extra boons that cannot be added to a deck, they are &quot;returned to the box&quot;, not &quot;banished&quot;. Similarly, if there are cards left in locations after the villain is defeated, they are returned to the box, not banished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="189" LastActivityDate="2014-07-16T21:20:12.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18258" CreationDate="2014-07-17T08:40:54.020" Score="1" ViewCount="980" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every board game store I've gone to has been sold out since last year and they don't know when they'll have it in stock again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Online, I can't find any copies for under $150 (and I'm not ready to spend that much money on a board game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a really popular game, so why is it so hard to find?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T14:47:21.957" Title="Where can I find a copy of Betrayal at House on the Hill" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-17T14:37:50.900" Score="1" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a part score of 60 to 0 (neither side vulnerable), I dealt and bid a &amp;quot;strong&amp;quot; 1NT with:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♠ QT3&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♥ KQJ8&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♦ KJ93&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♣ K5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;West,&amp;quot; to my left, overcalled 2 clubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Our respective partners passed to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I doubled (for takeout).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;West rebid 2 diamonds.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All passed, and we set them 3 undoubled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner had something like:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♠ xxxx&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♥ xxxx&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♦ xx&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;♣ Qxx&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;and might have bid (2 clubs) &amp;quot;garbage Stayman&amp;quot; if West hadn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My takeout double was meant to produce this effect, and probably a two hearts contract, except that West took me out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did West effectively &amp;quot;rescue&amp;quot; me by overcalling, meaning that I should have kept silent?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Or was it right to double to try to force partner to bid in this situation, risking a downed contract, to deprive the opponents of their (likely) 40 point part score?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2023-02-10T18:35:59.963" LastActivityDate="2023-02-10T18:35:59.963" Title="Should I have made a takeout double in the situation?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18255" CreationDate="2014-07-17T14:47:21.957" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is not currently in print; so the only copies that exist are ones that were printed before, and people have bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you get extremely lucky, and stumble upon a game store that has a random copy sitting around that hasn't sold (not very likely at all), then the only options are to go online to places like Ebay, BGG Marketplace, Amazon, etc, where you will have to pay an increased price because of high demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can follow &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1085562/price-gouging-amazon/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; for updates and details; it seems like they are keeping that up to date with info about a possible re-re-release (it was already re-released once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, keep checking constantly online! Check Ebay and Amazon at least once a day; every once in a while you get lucky and find one for a reasonable price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T14:47:21.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7668" CreationDate="2014-07-17T15:37:14.417" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. Look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: When an investigator casts a spell, can he spend all of his Sanity&#xA;  to pay the spell’s Sanity cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. If he does so, once the Sanity&#xA;  cost has been paid the investigator makes his Spell check and, if he&#xA;  passes, the spell takes effect. Whether the check is passed or not,&#xA;  the investigator then goes insane. Note that if an investigator were&#xA;  to cast a spell to gain combat bonuses, he would go insane before&#xA;  having a chance to get into combat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8003" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T15:37:14.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12548" CreationDate="2014-07-17T17:04:25.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new promotional card was released at Origins 2014 and it is now available in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeekstore.com/products/dominion-prince&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek Store&lt;/a&gt;.  It is the &lt;em&gt;Prince&lt;/em&gt; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in addition to the other promo cards that have already been mentioned: &lt;em&gt;Black Market&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Envoy&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Governor&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Stash&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Walled Village&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T17:04:25.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18257" CreationDate="2014-07-17T18:27:02.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you and your partner agree that this double is takeout (which is a normal agreement), this is the sort of hand that should make that call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T18:27:02.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18263" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:04:51.167" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've come across the incredible &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzcGFQTWdvZW5jc1JwcHEzUEVZV1htUVE&amp;amp;hl=en_US#gid=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Statistics spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; that fans have contributed to. I have played a few expansions and I understand most of what is on there, but I'm confused with the &quot;Dual-Color OW Battle&quot; under the &quot;Special Events&quot; header of the Miscellaneous tab. What is this? I know that OW stands for Other World, but I'm not sure what it means otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found anything about it on the Arkham Horror wiki or a general Google search. The only thing I can think of that would be two colors is Gloria's ability letting you draw two cards in an Other World, which might or might not be different colors. But that doesn't really make any sense in the context of a battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what exactly is a &quot;Dual-Color OW Battle&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T21:25:44.847" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T22:33:34.817" Title="What is a &quot;Dual-Color OW Battle&quot;?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18262" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:25:31.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Dual-Color OW Battle&quot; refers to three other world encounter cards from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22172/arkham-horror-curse-dark-pharaoh-expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharoah expansion&lt;/a&gt; (both the original and revised versions) that are actually two colors - they'll match either color. The &quot;Battle&quot; part, and the reason they're worth keeping statistics on, is that if you're in a certain location and draw the card, you'll have to fight an Ancient One. (If you're somewhere else, you get something much less scary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't care about spoilers, here they are: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/File%3AGate138.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/File%3AGate139.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;two&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/File%3AGate140.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;three&lt;/a&gt;. They're linked from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Other_World#Encounters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharoah section here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-07-17T22:33:34.817" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T22:33:34.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18265" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:38:41.560" Score="2" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ghost Stories, players are Buddhist monks trying to stave off invading ghosts before yielding to their (nigh-inevitable) deaths. Each monk chooses one of two similar special abilities at the beginning of the game. The Blue Monk has the potential to make the same action twice in one turn - using a villager twice, or exorcizing ghosts twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Buddhist Shrine, when you use it, lets you pick up a Buddha statue, which you can place on a future turn to instantly kill a ghost that arrives there. The rules seem to assume that you will only have one Buddha statue at a time, and only place one at a time, but the Blue Monk can easily pick up two statues in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can a Blue Monk carrying two statues place both of them on the same turn, in different ghost locations, if they're standing at a corner of the village?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T21:49:29.277" Title="Can you place two Buddha statues on the same turn?" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18264" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:49:29.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do this, even if you're not the blue monk (if, for example, you picked up the statues on different turns). From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/GS_RULES_US_ver1_3-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, pages 6-7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It may be possible to place two Buddha’s in the same turn, when the Taoist stands on a corner tile and the two corresponding ghost spaces are free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T21:49:29.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18257" CreationDate="2014-07-17T21:53:06.730" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have absolutely no business reopening this hand - the point of a 1NT opener is to make it so descriptive that partner is now &lt;em&gt;Captain&lt;/em&gt;, and partner should be making a cooperative double when your side has the balance of the points. If he makes no move, neither do you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West definitely &lt;em&gt;rescued&lt;/em&gt; you when he bid 2C with his balanced 23 count. You rescued him back by doubling, and he reiterated the favour with a 2D rebid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You were not going to have fun in 1NT if you didn't recognize early on which end plays were on. You were very lucky to get a plus score on this hand - were your opponents Rueful Rabbit and Secretary Bird?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T21:53:06.730" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18268" CreationDate="2014-07-17T22:46:57.837" Score="7" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several things that change a monster's Toughness. For instance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Azathoth&quot;&gt;Azathoth&lt;/a&gt; gives +1 Toughness to all Maniacs for the duration of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Heat_Wave&quot;&gt;Heat Wave&lt;/a&gt; gives +1 Toughness to all Fire Vampires while the environment is active&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Shub-Niggurath&quot;&gt;Shub-Niggurath&lt;/a&gt; gives &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; monsters +1 Toughness for the duration of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When effects like these are in play, the monster's Toughness in combat is higher than printed on the monster token. Does this also increase the monster's trophy value? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, what happens in the event of temporary changes to the monster's Toughness? For instance, if a Fire Vampire was killed before a Heat Wave, is the trophy worth one extra point if a Heat Wave strikes later? And if a Fire Vampire is killed during a Heat Wave and then the environment is replaced with something else, is the trophy back to the original value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T23:15:35.130" Title="Does an increase in monster Toughness also mean an increase in monster trophy value?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18267" CreationDate="2014-07-17T23:15:35.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You always apply whatever toughness modifiers are in effect when you exchange the trophy, the trophy's worth when you gained it is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To refer to your examples, a Fire Vampire killed before a Heat Wave, and exchanged during a Heat Wave is worth +1 toughness, while a Fire Vampire killed during a Heat Wave and exchanged after the Heat Wave has ended is worth only the monster's base toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 3):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; When spending monster trophies, do you count any &#xA;  modifiers to toughness currently in effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, use the modified toughness. This bonus applies to &#xA;  the use of any monster trophies spent at any location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-17T23:15:35.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18270" CreationDate="2014-07-18T03:03:58.753" Score="23" ViewCount="28853" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Marchesa%2C%20the%20Black%20Rose&quot;&gt;Marchesa, the Black Rose&lt;/a&gt; has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control with a +1/+1 counter on it dies, return that card to the battlefield under your control at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a number of creatures on the battlefield, including Marchesa herself, with one or more +1/+1 counters on them when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supreme%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt; was played, destroying each creature on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Marchesa &lt;em&gt;and several other creatures&lt;/em&gt; would be killed simultaneously,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does Marchesa's ability trigger for herself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does Marchesa's ability trigger for the other creatures under my control with +1/+1 counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In attempting to resolve the issue, we tried to look things up, leading to &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-questions/can-marchesa-protect-herself/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;, which cites Rule 603.6d (now 603.6c) as proving that Marchesa's ability should trigger both for herself and for each other creature with +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, none of us could &lt;em&gt;actually understand&lt;/em&gt; Rule 603.6d, aside from this example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two creatures are on the battlefield along with an artifact that has the ability Whenever a creature dies, you gain 1 life. Someone plays a spell that destroys all artifacts, creatures, and enchantments. The artifacts ability triggers twice, even though the artifact goes to its owners graveyard at the same time as the creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example certainly seems analogous to me, but without understanding the actual rule, rather than just the example, we weren't too sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A complete answer has to not only answer the question, but back up that answer with citation &lt;em&gt;and explanation&lt;/em&gt; of the official rules on the matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastEditorUserId="8021" LastEditDate="2023-06-27T13:06:14.740" LastActivityDate="2023-06-27T13:06:14.740" Title="What happens when a creature with &quot;Whenever a creature dies&quot; dies simultaneously with multiple other creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18269" CreationDate="2014-07-18T03:45:28.810" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Marchesa's ability will save herself if she dies with a +1/+1 counter, along with other creatures who died at the same time as her that had a +1/+1 counter. You are correct that rule 603.6d is the reason for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, 603.6d says the in normal circumstances, whenever something changes, all objects that now exist are checked to see if any of them trigger. BUT, it says that leaves-the-battlefield triggers work differently. With leaves-the-battlefield triggers, the game must look at what the gamestate was like just before the event took place to see if the event caused any triggers to go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, after all creatures die, the game checks to see what things were like just before they died. And now that the game is looking back in time, to just before the event happened, it sees Marchesa as an object that has a triggered ability that should trigger as a result of this event; in fact one that should trigger multiple times, once for each creature with a +1/+1 counter that died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this clears it up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6c is how you know that &quot;dies&quot; triggers count as &quot;leaves-the-battlefield&quot; abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6c Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone, or when a phased-in permanent leaves the game because its owner leaves the game. These are written as, but arent limited to, &quot;When [this object] leaves the battlefield, . . .&quot; or &quot;Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, . . . .&quot; An ability that attempts to do something to the card that left the battlefield checks for it only in the first zone that it went to. An ability that triggers when a card is put into a certain zone &quot;from anywhere&quot; is never treated as a leaves-the-battlefield ability, even if an object is put into that zone from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that &quot;dies&quot; means &quot;Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the battlefield&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to determine if these abilities trigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T14:35:51.880" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T14:35:51.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2705" CreationDate="2014-07-18T05:41:55.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;•depth of strategy&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Characters with a OPG ability, and weakness in addition to a special move&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Quorum card deck&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Other decks too like Destination cards, and the wide variety of crisis cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-there's also a sense of spatial locality, namely, space combat.  For example, it's typically worse to have 8 raiders vs. 4 raiders, but when those 4 raiders are one activation away from destroying 4 civilian ships, whereas the 8 raiders 3 activations away, then in the short term, the 8 raiders is actually a better situation for the humans.  Moving characters about the ships, and knights in SOC doesn't really count as &quot;spatial locality&quot; as characters in BSG to for example move anywhere on Galactica (well, no hazard spots) with just one move/ment, while in SOC, it takes one Heroic action to move to any quest, so distance nor the layout of the locations aren't a factor in those regards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-reveal powers in BSG&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Also, SOC's accusation has a way to force a player to reveal his identity.  In BSG, until you get to Pegasus or Exodus expansions' execution mechanic, there's no way to force him to reveal his identity  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•suitability for new players (length of time to explain, etc.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All variables equal, BSG is roughly twice the game play time as SOC.  However, it's also got more depth.  If I have the time and group that's up for it, I'd much rather play BSG.  However, it's easier to teach SOC.  And more people are familiar with dragons and Arthurian legends than the new BSG TV series.  However, an explanation should be enough for most people (e.g. explain what &quot;jumping&quot; is, what a cylon is, the state of the 12 colonies)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•overall feel of the game&lt;br&gt;&#xA;•what situations you would recommend playing each of them in.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;BSG takes 2.5 to 5 hours.  Average times about 3.25 hours.  Also a higher learning curve.  SOC takes 1 to 2 hours, and teaches fairly quickly, but there's less options.  For example, people feel in BSG, stuff happens between turns like playing a die roll modifier, or how whenever there's a skill check, everyone can participate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•anything else you think should be included in regards to comparing and contrasting them&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I will say that I'm a fan with BSG with all 3 expansions.  There's a whole wall of opinions on what's best, but it seems there's more love for the better expansions here than just Merlin's Company for SOC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also those who don't like BSG cited as one complaint how you can turn cylon halfway through.  Some like it because it forces the humans to play a bit conservatively in case someone gets turned.  Others hate having their work undone.  With SOC, since you deal out n cards out of n + 1 Loyalty deck, with only 1 Traitor card, there's the possibility that there may be NO traitor.  If you guarantee a traitor, it changes the dynamics knowing that it's gotta be someone, and makes accusations less risky.  If there ends up not being a traitor (again, NOT because you played the fully-coop version), then those who don't enjoy fully-co-op games feel like they got robbed of the real deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh, SOC does scale better. Some purists will only play BSG with exactly 5p.  I'm more flexible.  However, SOC is hard for the loyal knights with only 3p or 4p, and gets harder for the traitor in a 7p games on account of # of loyal turns between the traitor's own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastEditorUserId="8043" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T05:51:50.573" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T05:51:50.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8964" CreationDate="2014-07-18T05:48:39.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best you can do is to say that a game will be &quot;minimal spoilers&quot; as opposed to &quot;no spoilers&quot;.  Problem is, someone who's more perceptive in observation and putting two and two together will notice things that give away plot points, personalities, and situations from the various cards.  Hell, many of the crisis cards depict struggles in the TV show, with some of them the actual names or the main plot of the episodes themselves.  Even just looking at the box front, backs, and reading the game description will do that too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reduce the # of spoilers, have everyone watch at least the miniseries before playing the base game.  Otherwise:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;mini-series = decent chunk of the base game&lt;br&gt;&#xA;season one = roughly base game.  Do NOT read flavor text in this case!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Season 2 = Pegasus&lt;br&gt;&#xA;season 3 = Exodus&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Season 4 = Daybreak  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note though that some of the stuff does spill over, hence the &quot;roughly&quot;.  For example, there was probably a crisis cards in Pegasus that was actually a season 3 occurrence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastEditorUserId="8043" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T06:02:03.147" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:02:03.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7846" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:00:59.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No sympathizer is FFG's official variant, but they warn it does make the game easier for the cylons&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/BSG_optional_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/BSG_optional_rules.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If playing with Pegasus, you can use the Cylon Leader mechanic or Sympathetic Cylon (not to be confused with the base game's Cylon Sympathizer).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CL starts off revealed, but has Agenda cards instead of Loyalty cards.  They call for him to be &quot;half and half&quot;, like you win if cylons win, but distance is 6 or more, tugging him in both directions rather than full blown you're either human or a cylon.  Some of the Agendas are difficult, or rather easy, but FWIW, it's a game where you're at the mercy of card draws or die rolls.  CL can also infiltrate into human locations&#xA;Symp Cylon card gets dealt at sleeper, and that player effectively turns into a CL.  However, unlike actual CL, the Symp-Cylon has no skill set (draw any 2 cards of different colors, 3 if infiltrating), no OPG, no special, nor weakness.  Some say having only the 2nd half of the game to fulfill Agendas is just bad, but it's generally deemed to still ben an improvement over Cylon Symp  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have Daybreak, you have 2 options over Cylon Sympathizer... use CL, where the Motive cards replace the Agendas, or the Mutineer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Motive cards can still lead to some imbalanced games, but are overall improvement since the CL gets 2 of them in the beginning, and 2 more at sleeper phase. These combinations make the CL's goals more unpredictable, and also forces the CL to often keep the game going at least till Sleeper phase.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mutineer must be revealed immediately, but forces more of Daybreak's Mutiny cards onto him, forcing him to spend more actions on dealing with them, lest he get brigged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:00:59.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2875" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:06:40.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only compensation for base game's Res. Ship location was distance can be 7 or less for the handoff, as opposed to Pegasus' 6 distance or less.  However, yeah, sicne you need to use an action in the base game, it's somewhat worse there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory, you could give a cylon player the option to use base game or Peg's Human Fleet location, disregarding infiltrating since that's not possible in the base game.  Even though Daybreak's Res. Ship lets you farm super crisis cards, I wouldn't allow that in the base game.  Perhaps change it to do the super crisis card exchange thing, then draw a skill card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:06:40.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9117" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:14:54.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's different with each game.  That's why you can't just give the humans an advantage and arbitrarily picking one resource to start at one more.  You'd have to make it dynamic where the first one to go to 0 gets bumped back up, then whichever resource is at 0 at the end of any player's turn will result in human loss and game over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel -- mostly lost through Destination card.  The admiral has solid control over this, although other characters who draw purple can use Launch scout to make this more favorable or less.  Oh, the Destination cards (Tylium Refinery) that let you risk a raptor to get +2 Fuel is a lifesaver if you're low on Fuel, but at only 1 distance, you're subjecting yourself to more crisis cards, and can lose via Morale more easily now.  If you have a cylon admiral, you definitely need to brig him to strip him of that title.  Losses also include 1 civvy ship, 1 Galactica damage token, and few crisis cards, especially Admiral Chooses ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food -- mostly lost through crisis cards, like President Chooses.  1 Gally damage token for food.  However, Food tends to be a dump resource.  A sort of gag is if you lost by Food, than that's a bit shameful.  However, I've played over 80 games, and we have lost to Food b/c we couldn't afford the other resources, and in the end, something had to give.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morale -- Even though you start off with 10 Morale and only 8 Food, Morale losses are more common since the crisis deck disproportionately targets Morale.  1 civvy ship that results in loss of this.  While there are 4 Inspirational Speeches in the Qcard deck, the Quorum cards still need to be gone through, and a 6+ still needs to get rolled, so don't count on this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pop -- mostly through civvy ships, although some games, more of these are lost in using FTL Control at -3 or -1.  Some crisis cards also cause loss of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all of them, Destination deck also contains a few scant losses and getting them back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T06:14:54.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13657" CreationDate="2014-07-18T06:24:39.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep the Mutiny well managed.  You don't want all 3 humans in the Brig.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the cylon president already has a Mutiny, use Admin to force the president title to a human  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the other Colonial One location to discard a Mutiny card without playing a harmful effect    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Treachery that gives characters Mutiny to Brig unrevealed cylons  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Mutiny cards that help your situation, like +1 jump, or attack a centurion at +2   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider using Restore Order to keep skill check effects, like from Treachery cards from wreaking havoc at crucial moments  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many of the Skill Check cards (the 0-strength ones) require a decision point.  That forces unrevealed cylons to out themselves, or play nice  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Definitely take advantage of the pro human skill cards like Test The Limits (free jump icon!), or Raptor Specialist to get an Assault Raptor, or get back a rare Raptor  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure everyone's using their OPG to effect!  You don't always get a chance to use it, but not using it can sometimes make a difference!  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always use XOs and special abilities when you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-07-18T20:18:02.970" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T20:18:02.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-18T10:20:52.447" Score="0" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if bob uses his ability of hitting 2 damage with machine gun equipped, would it be counted as his win if he rolled a 2 damage to 2 people holding equipment with 3 on his own and dying from the machine gun?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8059" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T06:35:48.520" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T06:35:48.520" Title="Bob win conditions with Machine Gun" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2014-07-18T13:30:21.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say it is useless, although it doesn't seem particularly useful. You may pay an action token now to receive possibly several action tokens in the future (by defeating several troublemakers at the problem and possibly again when you are in a problem faceoff at the problem). As a strategy, this is troublesome because of the opportunity costs of using the action token in the first place, the uncertainty of winning the final problem faceoff, and the fact that your opponent may not play multiple troublemakers at the problem to avoid giving you additional bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the scenario where I would be inclined to play this card: It's the main phase and I now have what I consider to be an acceptable power at the troublemaker to win the faceoff next turn. I have a remaining action token after playing all of the other cards I wanted this turn. I can spend that action token now and I can expect to get it back during the troublemaker faceoff next turn. After that, I will have the opportunity to continue to collect additional action tokens for wins at the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your second question, winning a faceoff with the card at a problem will earn you one action token plus the normal amount of bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T13:30:21.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18257" CreationDate="2014-07-18T15:51:53.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no one correct answer for a situation like this. It's a judgement call. I would have passed, for two reasons. One is that the club overcall means my CK is less likely to be useful. The other is that I was understrength for 1NT to begin with. The hand counts to 15 HCP, but it's worth somewhat less due to the lack of aces and the unprotected SQ. This evaluation method makes it 14.05:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeff-goldsmith.org/cgi-bin/knr.cgi?hand=QT3+KQJ8+KJ93+K5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jeff-goldsmith.org/cgi-bin/knr.cgi?hand=QT3+KQJ8+KJ93+K5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks as though no part score will make on this deal, do there doesn't seem to have been a lot at stake in your decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2014-07-18T15:51:53.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18277" CreationDate="2014-07-19T00:12:23.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, assuming he chose to use his ability to steal the other players equipment instead of doing damage to them as he would then meet his win condition of having 5 peices of equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He would also win if the damage to the other players was enough to kill them as you gain a piece of equipment from a player when you kill them so in either case Bob would immediately  win the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rule book&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bob Neutral Robbery: If you inflict 2 or more points of damage to another character, you can take an Equipment Card of your choice from that character instead of giving him/her the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a player takes damage during the game, they move the HP piece onto the number on the board corresponding to how much damage they currently have. HP pieces are used to show the damage levels of all players. A player's character dies when they have accumulated damage equal or more to the HP listed on their character card. When a character dies, the player must flip their character card face up if they have not already and remove their HP piece and Player piece from the board. If a player has killed another player, they are allowed to take one Equipment card from the dead player and discard the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadow_Hunters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadow_Hunters&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T18:57:45.553" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T18:57:45.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18284" CreationDate="2014-07-19T04:30:42.483" Score="5" ViewCount="632" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was younger I had a cool game, that I forget the name of, and would like to re-acquire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a small wooden board, with a grid of squares on it. There were two players, and each turn, you could move your piece, or place a barrier in one of the slits. You couldn't completely block your opponent, but you had to try to get to the other side of the board before they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody know what this game was called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T16:20:32.687" Title="Help Identify this game: place wooden barriers try to get across" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-07-20T21:03:17.233" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18282" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T06:21:07.183" Score="1" ViewCount="1654" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;, if a creature is destroyed, it is returned to the battlefield and then at the next end phase Gift of Immortality is returned onto the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt;, when a creature dies an opponent can choose for it to return to my hand or they lose three health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If when my monster equipped with Gift of Immortality dies, would Athreos' effect trigger, and if it does and they decide to return the card to your hand does it go to your hand because of Athroes or does it return to the battlefield because of Gift of Immortality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T07:07:42.797" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T15:04:47.193" Title="Athreos, God of Passage and Gift of Immortality" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18282" CreationDate="2014-07-19T11:58:12.760" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're dealing with two triggered abilities here that trigger upon death and move the card around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gift of Immortality's ability:&lt;/strong&gt; When enchanted creature dies, return that card to the battlefield under its owner's control. Return &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/em&gt; to the battlefield attached to that creature at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movement: Graveyard &amp;rarr; Battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Athreos, God of Passage's ability:&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever another creature you own dies, return it to your hand unless target opponent pays 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Movement: Graveyard &amp;rarr; Hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The important rules&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both abilities attempt to move the card out of the same place. Because of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/603-handling-triggered-abilities.html#rule-603-6&quot;&gt;rule 603.6&lt;/a&gt;, they're in a sort of race: the one to do the move first 'wins', whilst the other will fail to find the card in the graveyard and do nothing to it. Important part emphasised:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Trigger events that involve objects changing zones are called &quot;zone-change triggers.&quot; Many abilities with zone-change triggers attempt to do something to that object after it changes zones. &lt;strong&gt;During resolution, these abilities look for the object in the zone that it moved to. If the object is unable to be found in the zone it went to, the part of the ability attempting to do something to the object will fail to do anything.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(ed: the rest snipped)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/603-handling-triggered-abilities.html#rule-603-3-b&quot;&gt;rule 603.3b&lt;/a&gt;, you get to define the order these two go on the stack, and thus you choose which one will resolve first and win the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3b&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. &lt;em&gt;(ed: the rest snipped)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; This refers to the &quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player order&quot; rule, defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/101-the-magic-golden-rules.html#rule-101-4&quot;&gt;104.4&lt;/a&gt;, and modified by &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/805-shared-team-turns-option.html#rule-805-6&quot;&gt;805.6&lt;/a&gt; for teams. In short: the player/team whose turn it is puts their stuff on the stack, then the next player/team in turn order, and so on until everyone's done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Therefore: what happens depends on the order you choose.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If you let &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/em&gt; resolve first...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put &lt;em&gt;Athreos's&lt;/em&gt; ability on the stack first, and &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality's&lt;/em&gt; ability last. They resolve in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality's&lt;/em&gt; ability returns the card to the battlefield. &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/em&gt; will return attached to it later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Athreos's&lt;/em&gt; ability triggers. It will do nothing regardless of your opponent's choice, because it can't move the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;If you let &lt;em&gt;Athreos's&lt;/em&gt; ability resolve first...&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality's&lt;/em&gt; ability on first, and then &lt;em&gt;Athreos's&lt;/em&gt; last. They resolve in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Athreos's&lt;/em&gt; ability offers your opponent a choice to pay 3 life, or do nothing.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they pay 3 life, the card stays in your graveyard. &lt;em&gt;(They will probably not choose to do this, because it works out badly for them.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they do not, it returns to your hand. &lt;em&gt;(They will probably choose this.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality's&lt;/em&gt; ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the card's still in your graveyard, it moves to the battlefield, and &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/em&gt; will return attached to it later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your opponent made it return to your hand, &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/em&gt; does nothing and becomes a benign card in your graveyard. It will not return from the graveyard even if you re-cast the card, because of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/400-general.html#rule-400-7&quot;&gt;rule 400.7&lt;/a&gt;: the newly summoned creature will be considered a new and different creature to the one the &lt;em&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/em&gt; remembers. None of 400.7's exceptions apply here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T13:30:03.650" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T13:30:03.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18281" CreationDate="2014-07-19T16:20:32.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/624/quoridor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quoridor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ijWv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Quoridor&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;............&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T16:20:32.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18285" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-19T18:26:56.620" Score="4" ViewCount="1497" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eidolon%20of%20Rhetoric&quot;&gt;Eidolon of Rhetoric&lt;/a&gt; is on the battlefield and an opponent has a Cipher card (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hidden%20Strings&quot;&gt;Hidden Strings&lt;/a&gt; for example) encoded on one of their creatures. If that player casts a spell and then deals damage with that creature in the same turn, would they be able to cast Hidden strings? Would it work because the Ciphered card turns additional casts into an ability or would it not work because the cipher ability says &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7915" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T00:11:10.883" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T00:11:10.883" Title="Will Eidolon of Rhetoric also prevent Cipher from working in the same turn as another spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18285" CreationDate="2014-07-19T18:36:58.767" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;They cannot cast the ciphered spell because they've already cast a spell. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot;&gt;Rule 101.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &quot;can't&quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cipher ability allows the player to cast a spell, and Eidolon of Rhetoric says that they can't cast any spells after their first each turn. So, Eidolon prevents them from casting the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Cipher&quot;&gt;Cipher&lt;/a&gt; rules, as long as the card is encoded on a creature, that creature has an ability that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever this creature deals combat damage to a player, you may copy this card and you may cast the copy without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when the creature deals damage to a player, the player can make a copy of the spell, and then they can cast the spell &lt;em&gt;just like they would cast any other spell&lt;/em&gt; except that when they pay the cost, they don't have to pay the mana cost. This spell is affected by Eidolon of Rhetoric, just like any other spell&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-19T20:36:43.580" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T20:36:43.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18285" CreationDate="2014-07-19T19:04:10.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter whether the instruction to cast comes from an ability or from having priority. They can't cast a second spell since they've already cast a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the saying goes, &amp;quot;can't trumps can&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. This means Eidolon of Rhetoric's ability to forbid him to cast more than one spell per turn overrides any instruction to do so&lt;sup&gt;CR 101.2&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability granted by Cipher is as follows&lt;sup&gt;CR 702.98a&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Whenever this creature deals combat damage to a player, you may copy the encoded card and you may cast the copy without paying its mana cost.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot obey the instruction to cast the copy. When faced with an effect with a mandatory instruction that cannot be obeyed, you perform as much as the effect as possible&lt;sup&gt;CR 101.2&lt;/sup&gt;. However, the instruction to cast is optional in the case of Cipher (&amp;quot;you may&amp;quot;). As such, you are forbidden to chose to take the forbidden action&lt;sup&gt;CR 608.2d&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all that happens is that a copy of the card is made if you so desire. The copy ceases to exist immediately after&lt;sup&gt;CR 704.5e&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing things in the opposite order wouldn't help. If he started his turn by attacking, he'd be able cast the copy of Hidden Strings, but he wouldn't be able to cast anything else in his second main phase for all of the same reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Can't trumps do&amp;quot; is more accurate, but not as poetic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can’t happen, the “can’t” effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2d [...] The player can’t choose an option that’s illegal or impossible, with the exception that having a library with no cards in it doesn’t make drawing a card an impossible action (see rule 120.3). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.98a [...] “Cipher” means [...] and “For as long as this card is encoded on that creature, that creature has ‘Whenever this creature deals combat damage to a player, you may copy the encoded card and you may cast the copy without paying its mana cost.’”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5. The state-based actions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5e [...] If a copy of a card is in any zone other than the stack or the battlefield, it ceases to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T22:58:43.730" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11330" CreationDate="2014-07-19T21:01:36.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In blitz, you can take the opposing king (whereas in normal chess, it's illegal to move such that you're in check).  Not all blitz is this way: online chess typically just retains the rule that leaving yourself in check is illegal, and this is fine since the computer enforces the rule.  In real life blitz, because of the fast pace, the usual convention is that you lose if you leave your king in check.  This is to stop people from wasting your time by moving into check, hitting the clock, letting YOUR time run, then taking the move back afterward... it's hard to restore the time you lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally you just capture the king outright and claim victory in over-the-board blitz. But as you note, you can't do this in a clear fashion when your opponent castles through an attacked square.  There are similar illegal moves that could occur: castling with a rook that has already moved, or with a king that's already moved, or simply making an outright illegal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The convention &lt;strong&gt;I&lt;/strong&gt; have always used is that illegal moves must be retracted.  If the king is OUTRIGHT left in check, you may capture it and declare a win.  But simply moving through an attacked square would not qualify, and you would simply hold down your clock button (to stop your opponent from starting your clock) and say, &quot;Illegal castling... please retract the move&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would not be entitled to capture his king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8066" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T21:01:36.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18285" CreationDate="2014-07-19T22:52:30.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something that the other answers haven't really emphasized, but might be the key to your confusion: you said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Would it work because the Ciphered card turns additional casts into an ability or would it not work because the cipher ability says &quot;cast&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cipher does not &quot;turn additional casts into an ability.&quot; What happens is that when the creature deals damage to the defending player, the cipher ability triggers, and then resolves, and while resolving it gives you the opportunity to copy the exiled card and cast that copy. But you are still &lt;em&gt;casting&lt;/em&gt; something. In almost all respects this is just like any other instance of casting a spell: you pick targets, pay costs, and put it on the stack as normal, and anything that affects your ability to cast spells also affects this. There are only two differences: (1) the thing you're casting is a copy, so is not represented by a card, and (2) it's being cast from exile, not from your hand. Neither of those two things make a difference to Eidolon of Rhetoric, though. (Hypothetically, if the Eidolon said &quot;Each player can't cast more than one spell &lt;em&gt;from his or her hand&lt;/em&gt; each turn,&quot; then it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; make a difference, and the spell cast via cipher wouldn't count toward that limit of one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2014-07-19T22:52:30.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18291" CreationDate="2014-07-19T23:28:44.293" Score="9" ViewCount="71434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't always have an internet connection to research the rarity of a MTG card.  Is there an obvious indication of rarity on MTG cards themselves (other than foil)?  Some sort of insignia? Or a class of creatures that is almost always rare? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastActivityDate="2021-11-16T21:20:32.330" Title="Is there an easy way I can tell if a MTG card is &quot;rare&quot; just by looking at it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18290" CreationDate="2014-07-19T23:40:37.273" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, cards have a rarity indicator (at least in recent years). Each Magic card has an icon below and to the right of the picture called the expansion symbol, which indicates the expansion set that the card is from. The icon's color indicates the rarity of the card, with the following key:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black: Common&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silver: Uncommon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gold: Rare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red: Mythic Rare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get an idea of the relative rarity of these cards, we can look at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Booster_Pack&quot;&gt;booster pack&lt;/a&gt;. Recent booster packs each contain about 11 commons, 3 uncommons, and 1 rare, with about a 1 in 8 chance of the rare being replaced with a mythic rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of things to remember: very old cards, like from &lt;em&gt;Alpha&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Beta&lt;/em&gt;, don't have expansion symbols at all. Other old (but not as old) cards have expansion symbols, but they're all black. And some cards have been printed in different sets, and have different rarities in those sets, so the icon on the card may not match the rarity in the most current set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T02:58:33.300" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T02:58:33.300" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18293" CreationDate="2014-07-19T23:46:51.837" Score="1" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each 2 colour combination has its own name and it's own picture used on cards that have both colours involved (generally in the background of the card text). Do the pictures themselves have a name other than just &quot;Gruul Banner&quot;, &quot;Rakdos Mask&quot; or &quot;Orzhov Eight Pointed Star&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8068" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:00:43.370" Title="Are there specific names for the signature images in the Ravnica guilds?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18292" CreationDate="2014-07-20T00:29:43.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/look-2012-09-25&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Wizards.com article&lt;/a&gt; covers the aesthetics of the &lt;em&gt;Return to Ravnica&lt;/em&gt; block, complete with an entire section (&amp;quot;Revisiting the Guild Symbols&amp;quot;) on the changes made to each of the ten guild symbols since the original Ravnica block.  Nowhere in here are any names for the individual symbols given, and as this is the most in-depth official look at the symbols I've ever seen, it seems unlikely there are any official names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The only other official article I can find that really looks at the signets is &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/ravnica-guild-bake-2006-07-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article from the end of the first Ravnica block&lt;/a&gt; (under &amp;quot;Ravnica's Best Guild Signets&amp;quot;).  No names there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-03T17:00:43.370" LastActivityDate="2022-06-03T17:00:43.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18294" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18295" CreationDate="2014-07-20T01:41:33.517" Score="3" ViewCount="16700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my opponent has out &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=279712&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Akroma's Memorial&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=215082&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Asceticism&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370734&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Darksteel Forge&lt;/a&gt;, or something similar that uses the word &quot;have&quot; to give abilities. If I use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; effect to copy a creature my opponent controls that has any of these extra abilities, will my clone also have Indestructble, Hexproof, or similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, why does the Clone of a token produced with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380523&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twinflame&lt;/a&gt; have haste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7648" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T13:01:52.653" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T13:01:52.653" Title="Will clone effects copy extra abilities applied to a creature? If not, why does Twinflame work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18294" CreationDate="2014-07-20T01:51:58.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they will not. You only get to copy what is actually printed on the card; not any information that has changed the properties of that object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clone copies exactly what was printed on the original creature and nothing more (unless that creature is copying something else or is a token; see below). It doesn't copy whether that creature is tapped or untapped, whether it has any counters on it or Auras attached to it, or any non-copy effects that have changed its power, toughness, types, color, or so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual rule that explains this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.2. When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics and, for an object on the stack, choices made when casting or activating it (mode, targets, the value of X, whether it was kicked, how it will affect multiple targets, and so on). The &amp;quot;copiable values&amp;quot; are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being name, mana cost, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by “as . . . enters the battlefield” and &amp;quot;as . . . is turned face up&amp;quot; abilities that set characteristics, and by abilities that caused the object to be face down. Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copying tokens works a little differently, just because there is no literal &amp;quot;card text&amp;quot; to copy. Instead, a token's copiable values are determined by the effect that created the token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5b The spell or ability that creates a token may define the values of any number of characteristics for the token. This becomes the token's &amp;quot;text.&amp;quot; The characteristic values defined this way are functionally equivalent to the characteristic values that are printed on a card; for example, they define the token's copiable values. A token doesn't have any characteristics not defined by the spell or ability that created it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-20T04:31:43.073" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T04:31:43.073" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-20T08:37:46.750" Score="6" ViewCount="1008" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStrionic%20Resonator%5d&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVorinclex%2c%20Voice%20of%20Hunger%5d&quot;&gt;Vorinclex, Voice of Hunger&lt;/a&gt; in play under my control, what will happen when I tap a land for mana, or when my opponent taps a land for mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8070" LastEditorUserId="7613" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T21:18:46.100" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T21:18:46.100" Title="What effect do Strionic Resonator and Vorinclex, Voice of Hunger have together?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18296" CreationDate="2014-07-20T10:02:36.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It more or less does nothing. Neither trigger targets, and each triggers separately for each land, so you could only copy a trigger for one land. And as a mana ability, the first trigger doesn't use the stack and can't be targeted anyway. So the only thing you could do with it is make it so that a land that doesn't untap next untap step also doesn't untap next untap step (which is redundant and completely useless unless there's some corner case I'm missing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T18:12:02.013" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T18:12:02.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18300" CreationDate="2014-07-20T13:09:03.850" Score="2" ViewCount="2763" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Agent%20of%20the%20Fates&quot;&gt;Agent of the Fates&lt;/a&gt; in my graveyard. I return it to my hand with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disentomb&quot;&gt;Disentomb&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my opponent have to sacrifice a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8071" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T00:09:33.377" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:32:51.623" Title="Does heroic trigger when the creature is in a graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18299" CreationDate="2014-07-20T13:21:48.347" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The Heroic ability only works if the creature you target is a permanent on the battlefield. &lt;em&gt;Most&lt;/em&gt; abilities only work from the battlefield. From rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/112-abilities.html#rule-112-6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;112.6&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt; The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a few exceptions, but the ones regarding activated or triggered abilities are &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;i&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;j&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. They're quoted in full below. The basic gist of these exceptions, and rule 112.6, is that no activated or triggered abilities work outside the battlefield — &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; it involves a cost or trigger condition that &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; work on the battlefield, in which case it works wherever it &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good example of these exceptions (specifically exception &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;i&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;) is &lt;em&gt;Scavenge&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Bloodrush&lt;/em&gt;. The former requires you to exile the card from your graveyard, and the latter requires you to discard it (and cards can only be discarded from your hand, nowhere else). Since those costs can only be paid somewhere outside the battlefield, &lt;em&gt;Scavenge&lt;/em&gt; works inside your graveyard, and &lt;em&gt;Bloodrush&lt;/em&gt; works inside your hand. (But that's the only places they work, since their costs can't be paid anywhere else.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;em&gt;Heroic&lt;/em&gt; works just fine on the battlefield, though, it isn't covered by these exceptions (specifically the one regarding triggered abilities, exception &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;j&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;) and doesn't get to work elsewhere too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.6i&lt;/strong&gt; An objects activated ability that has a cost that can't be paid while the object is on the battlefield functions from any zone in which its cost can be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.6j&lt;/strong&gt; A trigger condition that can't trigger from the battlefield functions in all zones it can trigger from. Other trigger conditions of the same triggered ability may function in different zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: Absolver Thrull has the ability &amp;quot;When Absolver Thrull enters the battlefield or the creature it haunts dies, destroy target enchantment.&amp;quot; The first trigger condition functions from the battlefield and the second trigger condition functions from the exile zone. (See rule 702.54, &amp;quot;Haunt.&amp;quot;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T00:32:51.623" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18296" CreationDate="2014-07-20T15:09:30.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't use Strionic Resonator when you tap a land for mana. Mana abilities do not use the stack. According to rule 605.1, a mana ability is an activated ability that creates mana, or a triggered ability that triggers off of mana creation and makes more mana itself (such as with Overgrowth or the last ability on Gauntlet of Power). Since Vorinclex's ability is never on the stack, you can't target it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you copy the second ability, it won't have any additional effect. The ability doesn't have any targets, it simply affects the same land twice during the next untap step (my comment below indicating that this may not be the case is wrong).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8072" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T20:38:30.033" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T20:38:30.033" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18303" CreationDate="2014-07-20T16:35:34.747" Score="1" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the MLP CCG there is a problem card called &quot;Lost in the Crystal Caves&quot;:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mlpccg.wikia.com/wiki/Lost_in_the_Crystal_Caves_(Canterlot_Nights)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mlpccg.wikia.com/wiki/Lost_in_the_Crystal_Caves_(Canterlot_Nights)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If confronting the problem forces you to move a character from the problem back to home, and you would no longer satisfy the problem requirements, would you still score the point for initially confronting the problem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if your opponent was satisfying the problem? Would you perform a faceoff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point does the problem text trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T17:02:08.697" Title="Lost in the Crystal Caves - Solve Step Order" Tags="|my-little-pony-ccg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18302" CreationDate="2014-07-20T17:02:08.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You already seem to be aware that &amp;quot;confront the problem&amp;quot; means having enough power at the problem when you enter the Confront Step. The specific rules (from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://img2.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20140509173956/mylittleponyccg/images/a/ab/MLP_CCG_Comprehensive_Rules_%28v2.0%29.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canterlot Nights comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;) about this say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(611.1) The turn player confronts a Problem if that player meets the Problem’s confront requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(611.3) A player meets the confront requirements of a Problem if that player controls characters at that Problem contributing power in the required amounts of the required colors to confronting that Problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(611.4) As a player confronts a Problem, that player scores a point. If an opponent also meets their confront requirements for that Problem (611.3), there will be a Problem Faceoff at that Problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you enter the Confront Step, you check whether you have the confront requirements of the problem, and if you do, you confront the problem and get a point. The &amp;quot;As&amp;quot; wording in (611.4) indicates that confronting the problem and scoring a point are the same event, so the problem's triggered ability triggers on that event and happens after you get the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second half of (611.4) says that there is a faceoff &amp;quot;if an opponent also meets their confront requirements&amp;quot;. This doesn't say that the opponent confronts the problem, so the ability doesn't trigger for them. It also doesn't say you check your power at the problem again, so you move to faceoff depending on whether you &lt;em&gt;confronted&lt;/em&gt; the problem, not whether you &lt;em&gt;currently&lt;/em&gt; satisfy the confront requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T17:02:08.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18306" CreationDate="2014-07-20T18:16:33.593" Score="9" ViewCount="2060" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a Munchkin game yesterday, a level 8 player (let's call her &quot;Jennifer&quot;) was fighting a Hippogriff. After counting gear bonuses, Jennifer's combat strength was 15 and the Hippogriff's was 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Jennifer won the combat, she would have won the game, so people started unloading cards that affect combat. The following cards were played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jennifer used a &quot;+3 to either side, usable once only&quot; (+3 UOO) card to help herself, making the fight 18/16 in her favor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another player used a +3 UOO card to help the Hippogriff, making the fight 18/19.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jennifer used a +2 UOO card on herself, and another player used a +2 UOO card for the Hippogriff (20/21)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jennifer used a +5 UOO card on herself, and another player used a +5 UOO card for the Hippogriff (25/26)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jennifer used a &quot;-5 to monster&quot; card on the Hippogriff, and another player used a +5 UOO card for the Hippogriff (25/26)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jennifer used a +2 UOO card on herself, making the combat 27/26 in her favor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, another player threw down Illusion and Plutonium Dragon to replace the Hippogriff. The relevant part of Illusion is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard any one monster in this combat, along with any cards that have been played to modify it, and replace with a monster card from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then had a long argument about which cards remained in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of us immediately agreed that the &quot;-5 to monster&quot; card was a modifier for the Hippogriff, and disappeared with the Hippogriff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For UOO cards played to help Jennifer, half of us thought that they were gone, because they had already been &quot;thrown,&quot; &quot;fired,&quot; &quot;drunk&quot; or otherwise used up. The other half thought that the cards remained in play, because it was still the same combat and Illusion didn't explicitly say that anything should be done about cards played to help the munchkins' side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of us argued that the UOO cards played to help the Hippogriff's side of the combat also went away. Some of us cited the wording of Illusion; others thought they too were used up. A few of us maintained that UOO cards are not technically &quot;modifiers,&quot; and therefore should have remained in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have happened in this combat (assuming no further cards were played)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="704" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T21:00:00.260" Title="What happens to &quot;usable once only&quot; cards when Illusion is played?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2014-07-20T19:09:33.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When futures trading with resources we invoke a rule that the moment the player receives the resource in question they must immediately give that resource to the player they traded with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This eliminates most of the potential problems people have had with this form of trading. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8074" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T19:09:33.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18304" CreationDate="2014-07-20T21:00:00.260" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have an official ruling to cite, but my interpretation would be that Illusion only removes the monster and any Monster Enhancers specific to that monster, but does not affect any one-shot items or other &quot;&amp;pm;&lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; to either side&quot; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's confusing here is that, instead of using the standard term &quot;Monster Enhancer&quot; (like, say, the Mate card does), the Illusion card text just says to discard &quot;any cards that have been played to modify [the monster]&quot;.  However, as far as I can tell, these two terms as effectively synonymous; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; essentially define a Monster Enhancer as any card played to modify an individual monster:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Monster Enhancers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Certain cards, called monster enhancers, raise or lower the combat strength of individual monsters. (Yes, you can have a negative enhancement.) Monster enhancers may be played by any player during any combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All enhancers on a single monster add together. If there are multiple monsters in a combat, the person who plays each enhancer must choose which monster it applies to. &lt;em&gt;Exception:&lt;/em&gt; Anything that enhances a monster also enhances its Mate &amp;hellip; if &lt;strong&gt;Ancient&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Enraged&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Mate&lt;/strong&gt; are played on a single monster, &lt;em&gt;in any order&lt;/em&gt;, you are facing an Ancient Enraged monster and its Ancient Enraged Mate. Good luck &amp;hellip; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The Mate card text was changed to explicitly refer to Monster Enhancers in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/changelog.html&quot;&gt;The Great 2010 Changeover&lt;/a&gt;; I suspect that the lack of a similar change to the Illusion card may have been an oversight.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The essential difference between Monster Enhancers and one-shot items is that Monster Enchancers modify a specific monster (and possibly its Mate, per the explicit exception quoted above), whereas one-shot items add a bonus to a &lt;em&gt;side&lt;/em&gt; in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, if there are multiple monsters involved in a combat (e.g. due to Wandering Monster cards being played), a one-shot item granting a bonus to the monsters' side will not be tied to any specific monster, and will not disappear even if some of the monsters are subsequently removed from combat by any means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the monsters leave combat with no replacement (and no new wandering monsters appear within the rules-prescribed 2.6 seconds), then the combat is over and any bonuses of any kind become irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastActivityDate="2014-07-20T21:00:00.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19067" CreationDate="2014-07-21T02:27:41.610" Score="3" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solo rules say you must play with the 4-player action wheel and this means that I'm limited to 3 explorations per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider now the Duke Landwalker scenario that ends when you explore all the 24 regions available in the game. In it you only get the gold medal if you have &lt;strong&gt;less than&lt;/strong&gt; 8 evolution and character cards. Remember that you must buy one of those cards per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now observe that if I can explore up to 3 times per turn, it'll take me at least 8 turns to end the game, rendering the gold medal unachievable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seem very weird to me. Am I right? Did I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-21T17:36:01.827" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T22:56:51.340" Title="Is it impossible to get the gold medal in Duke Landwalker scenario?" Tags="|archipelago-solo-exp|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18328" CreationDate="2014-07-21T02:34:08.280" Score="2" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if, after exploring, you have to increase the surplus workers level beyond the board limit (level 26)? Should you increase the rebelion marker by the same amount that exceeded the surplus workers level? Make the exploration fail? Do nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:42:54.773" Title="What should you do if the surplus worker level limit is exceeded?" Tags="|archipelago|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T05:40:23.487" Score="6" ViewCount="677" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a recent visit to Europe, I saw some students playing a game that looked something like Mafia that played roughly like this (linguistic difficulties prevented me from any further understanding):  a group of 5-7 people were having essentially a normal conversation, and there were 2-3 &quot;spies&quot; who were trying to communicate some sort of message between each other, such as a pair of rhyming words or the beginning and end of a phrase.  The spies did not know each other's identities and were trying not to be &quot;caught&quot; by the other players, so the idea was that they had to weave these phrases into the conversation naturally.  There were other players with their own objectives as well, but I couldn't follow what they were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this kind of game ring any bells with anyone?  Wikipedia is not returning anything useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8079" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T10:21:20.017" Title="Mafia-type game which a secret message is communicated" Tags="|identify-this-game|party|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18314" CreationDate="2014-07-21T08:11:09.733" Score="4" ViewCount="1161" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two previous questions, it was clearly agreed that hesitating before playing a singleton specifically, and hesitating during play as a bluff generally constitute &quot;wrongful/unethical hesitation.&quot; As an advanced beginner, I don't understand this rule at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that at the highest level, the best way to play and not give away any information about your holding to the opponents is to play each card at a nice even tempo. I am not a world class player; I am not even an advanced player (if I endplay you, I promise it wasn't intentional). As such, I frequently need to pause and calculate what to play, even in situations where the correct play should be obvious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that I will inevitably need to pause and consider a play and that that pause will provide my opponents with the information that I had a potentially difficult decision to make, why is it considered unethical for me to occasionally insert a similar pause before a routine play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't as if I could use such a pause to reliably signal something to my partner. In fact, this strategy removes the temptation for partner to draw unauthorized inferences from my pauses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6484" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T16:47:24.160" Title="Why is this type of hesitation considered unethical?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18315" CreationDate="2014-07-21T08:33:03.980" Score="5" ViewCount="1876" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Guillotine the &quot;After You...&quot; card states &quot;Put the noble at the front of the line into another player's score pile.&quot; Is the card put into the other players score pile the executed noble for this turn and thus end the turn or does the player who played the card then get to collect the next noble at the front of the line ending his/her turn? So is this noble executed instead of or in addition to the noble the player would normally collect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8082" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T14:34:52.427" Title="Clarification on &quot;After You...&quot; card text" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18309" CreationDate="2014-07-21T11:20:56.227" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not a perfect fit, but &lt;strong&gt;it sounds a bit like &lt;a href=&quot;http://thegamehaschanged.net/speakeasy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speakeasy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, a party game in which you use a secret password to identify your teammates and try to deduce as much as you can about the other side, including their passwords and roles etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two sides (Feds and Mob) which are equally balanced and the game includes roles and &quot;powers&quot; which mix things up a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastEditorUserId="1678" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T10:21:20.017" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T10:21:20.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-21T13:29:56.123" Score="1" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps stupidly, I bought both Claustrophobia and its De Profundis expansion both at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After doing so I discovered that the designer has stated the scenarios in the base game are not suitable for playing with the material from De Profundis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a colossal pain because it means sorting and removing all the cards and tiles from De Profundis every time we want to switch back to a base game scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know why this advice was given? Does it actually break the game somehow, or it merely untested? And has anyone actually tried it to see if it works okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T20:20:25.273" Title="Can you play base-game Claustrophobia scenarios with De Profundis included?" Tags="|claustrophobia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18310" CreationDate="2014-07-21T14:26:49.230" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you routinely take 2-3 seconds before each play of the cards, that is ethical. If you usually play cards more quickly, but take a pause when you have a problem, that is ethical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you usually play cards more quickly, take a pause when you have a problem, and sometimes take a pause when you don't have a problem to throw declarer off, this is unethical. Even though your partner is not entitled to know when you have a problem, declarer &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; entitled to know. Pausing in order to mislead declarer is called &quot;coffee-housing.&quot; It is unethical because in bridge only your actual plays should mislead declarer. It is related to the idea that you and your partner may not have secret bidding agreements. Bridge is not poker; you are not trying to bluff your opponents based on your demeanor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T20:51:17.060" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:51:17.060" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18311" CreationDate="2014-07-21T16:02:28.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each turn you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; play an action, and then &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; collect a nobel. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the action caused the Day to end then you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; collect a nobel of your own after playing the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Guillotine was designed and published by Wizards of the Coast and it comes as no surprise to me that the mechanic is so reliant on wording. It certainly makes settling arguments easy... if you're a lawyer!)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5433" LastEditorUserId="5433" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T14:34:52.427" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T14:34:52.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18320" CreationDate="2014-07-21T16:52:32.280" Score="4" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Bang! High Noon Card &quot;New Identity&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of their turn, each player looks at the character he is using to keep track of his life points. He may switch to the new identity for the rest of the game, &lt;strong&gt;starting with 2 life points&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that if you switch to the new identity, you start off with 2 health and that is the maximum for that identity? Or can you use beer/whiskey/etc. to increase your new identity's health up to the maximum on the character card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastEditorUserId="6842" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T03:37:41.590" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T07:56:08.837" Title="Bang! New Identity Health" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18310" CreationDate="2014-07-21T17:56:14.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bridge players derive pleasure from using their brains, be it a technical play, or some nice logic to read the cards perfectly, which includes inferences from opponents hesitations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allowing coffee-housing like invalid hesitations just destroys that pleasure, as now there is garbage thrown into the pool of inferences available. That said, beginning players usually hesitate for no valid bridge reason, and many better players indeed try to take that into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that is very different from deceptive plays in bridge, where you deceive the opponents purely using the card you play (and not in the manner you play it), are completely ethical and quite a useful weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T17:56:14.180" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18172" CreationDate="2014-07-21T22:52:06.943" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess.com has a tactical trainer which I've found very good. It's available through their iPhone app as well as their website, although with a free subscription you're limited to 3 puzzles per day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chess.com/tactics/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chess.com/tactics/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each puzzle and player has an Elo rating, and if you solve the puzzle then both the puzzle's and your own rating are adjusted, and you're given another puzzle of similar rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from this, record your games and go back through and have your opponent point out errors. When you're playing a game casually and it's clear you're down in material and position position, just concede and start another game. At that point you're just playing to hope your opponent slips up, which isn't a very good strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5827" LastActivityDate="2014-07-21T22:52:06.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18316" CreationDate="2014-07-22T00:30:57.050" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that means when you switch to the other character your health is set at 2 points and on your turn you can gain the missing health back. Which means that if you are switching to a character that has 4 bullets normally you can then play a whiskey to go back up to 4 bullets in health. Also if you are the sheriff in this game you could follow up with a beer and be back up to 5 health with the +1 health bonus for being sheriff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the setting to two life does is impose a penalty for switching if you are above 2 live or a small bonus for switching if you are at 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-22T07:56:08.837" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T07:56:08.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18308" CreationDate="2014-07-22T14:38:40.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't specify what's going on in that case because it's highly unprobable that it happens. If it happened to you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you sure you got all the rules right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Has it happened more than once or was it just a bad luck?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may want to ask the game designer about that issue if you think it will happen again. You can contact him through his &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://archipelago.ludically.com/contact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Contact page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. Please let us know if he answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T14:38:40.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-22T18:14:36.597" Score="3" ViewCount="1641" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to nail down exactly which roles work best for different numbers of players.  While I have much anecdotal evidence from many game plays, I was wondering if anyone is actually keeping track and has hard numbers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I'd like to be able to answer if, for a 9 player games, Merlin+Percy+Morgana+Mordred is more or less close to an even win percentage than the same game without Morgana&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="587" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T17:46:54.707" Title="Where can I find statistics on good/evil wins for the Resistance:Avalon for different role setups?" Tags="|statistics|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18327" CreationDate="2014-07-22T20:41:34.800" Score="3" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started to learn Go. I still have some problems to properly understand how to count territory when the game has finished (by both players passing). For example, if the game ends in the following situation, what part of the upper area would count towards black's territory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$c13 &#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;$$|...........X.&#xA;$$|...........XX&#xA;$$|..XXXXX....X.&#xA;$$|..X.X.XXXXWXX&#xA;$$|XXXXXXX...O..&#xA;$$|..........OOO&#xA;$$|..........OO.&#xA;$$|OOOOOOOOOOO.O&#xA;$$|..........OOO&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, usually black would just place a stone at L11 befor finally passing but what happens if black forgets to do so? (and white also misses the opportunity to exploit this)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resources I read about counting did not answer this question for me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8093" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T15:23:01.220" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T15:23:01.220" Title="How to count non fully walled territory?" Tags="|go|end-game|counting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18324" CreationDate="2014-07-22T21:20:10.700" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't really a finished game.  If both players passed, then all of the points around E13 would count as dame just like the ones around H8, and wouldn't be territory for Black.  This wouldn't happen in a serious game, so in a beginners' game, you would notice the problem during the scoring and probably just fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T21:20:10.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18323" CreationDate="2014-07-22T22:11:59.073" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience to much revolves around the players skill and play style to track from group to group. What may be a balanced combination for some groups will be unbalanced for others. What you need to look at instead is what does the roles you are adding in do to the game balance (according to the rule book) and start making changes from there. From what I have seen when I have played in different groups the win/loss for good/evil will vary from group to group even for a basic setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Percival and Oberon will make the good side more powerful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morderd and Morgana will make the evil side more powerful&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is just a matter of tweaking the balance based on your groups play style and skill and you will probably find that the balance will change as you play it more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2014-07-22T22:11:59.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18324" CreationDate="2014-07-23T07:37:55.537" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer: There is no such thing as &quot;non-fully walled territory&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far as the upper left is concerned, black has exactly two points: D10 and F10.  All the rest is not territory, because it's not enclosed.  Sure, it's all &lt;em&gt;potential&lt;/em&gt; territory, but it only becomes &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; territory when black takes that critical L11 point to actually enclose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your game actually ends in such a state, then black just made a huge 29-point blunder, whether white did anything to exploit it or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(of course if it's a casual game and you're nice you'll let him fix it because hey everyone makes mistakes but then again you're allowed to be a rule-abiding jerk too because winning is everything it's up to you)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T07:37:55.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18308" CreationDate="2014-07-23T10:42:54.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following the suggestion given by user @Oltarus, I contacted Ludically and got the following answer from Christophe Boelinger, the designer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When The surplus worker reaches the max level then it stays there no matter if any effect would require to go higher, and in such a case nothing else happens than leaving the marker at the max level. Which is already not a very helping situation anyway.&#xA;  And this no matter if it is in a solo game or multi player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T10:42:54.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18330" CreationDate="2014-07-23T13:34:02.557" Score="23" ViewCount="24054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have all the Dominion sets and really prefer to play the suggested sets of kingdom cards that come with the rules.  I find that these sets often are thought out really well and have several interesting strategies to explore.  When using randomizers (apps or just drawing randomly) I find that the sets seldom offers that many interesting strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I wonder if anyone knows of good suggested sets of kingdom cards?  Have you played with combinations that provide several strategy types?  Is there a source of suggested sets anywhere?  Somewhere where people can vote on sets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am sorry if the question is a bit vauge, but all I really want is to find some suggestions for good sets, not just random sets.  Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5623" LastActivityDate="2023-10-14T14:22:59.020" Title="Are there other sources of suggested sets?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18329" CreationDate="2014-07-23T13:51:31.497" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;One great resource is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dominiondeck.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dominion Deck Builder&lt;/a&gt;, a website that allows users to design and save kingdoms. They can be voted on, discussed, etc. &lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt; This website is no longer available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also a frequently-discussed topic at the Dominion Strategy Forum. Here are a few threads that each list several Kingdom setups that people have suggested, and in the latter 2 threads, voted on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=11251.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=11251.0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=6785.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=6785.0&lt;/a&gt; (Older, so does not contain Dark Ages or Guilds)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=11100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=11100&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2023-10-14T14:22:59.020" LastActivityDate="2023-10-14T14:22:59.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18332" CreationDate="2014-07-23T19:30:30.473" Score="7" ViewCount="13667" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I buy a development card in the special building phase that occurs between player turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8100" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T20:02:21.117" LastActivityDate="2017-08-13T09:46:21.357" Title="Can I buy a development card in the special building phase?" Tags="|catan|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18331" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:00:44.373" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from the  5-6 players rules pdf: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/settlers_5-6_rv_rules_100107.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/settlers_5-6_rv_rules_100107.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Special Building Phase – Your opponents may build as outlined below. The&#xA;  Special Building Phase occurs just after the end of your turn (i.e.,&#xA;  between player turns). All the other players may participate in the&#xA;  Special Building Phase. &lt;strong&gt;Each player then takes his turn clockwise&#xA;  around the table, and is allowed to build anything he can create with&#xA;  his resources&lt;/strong&gt;. 3 Note that no player is allowed to play Development&#xA;  Cards during the Special Building Phase. Also note that players are&#xA;  not allowed to do any trading with other players—nor are they allowed&#xA;  to use Maritime Trade—during this phase. They may only use the&#xA;  resources they have in their hands. For this reason, players are&#xA;  advised to trade as much, and as advantageously, as possible with the&#xA;  current player during his trading phase. They will then have the&#xA;  resources they need to build during the Special Building Phase. &lt;strong&gt;The&#xA;  Special Building Phase is an opportunity for all the other players&#xA;  (who are not currently taking their turn) to build roads, settlements,&#xA;  and cities, and/or to buy Development Cards.&lt;/strong&gt; This phase allows each&#xA;  player to influence the game, even though it is not his turn! ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also supported by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq-page/93&quot;&gt;catan faq&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Development Cards in General - &lt;strong&gt;If I have bought a Development Card&#xA;  during the special building phase&lt;/strong&gt; right before my turn, may I play&#xA;  this card on my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:00:44.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18335" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:08:58.290" Score="3" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=106625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sacred Mesa&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, sacrifice Sacred Mesa unless you sacrifice a Pegasus.&quot; It also has an activated ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1W: Put a 1/1 white Pegasus creature token with flying into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is..  so let's say you use 2W to cast it. Then on your next turn you have your untap phase and your upkeep phase. Can you create a 1/1 white Pegasus token between your untap and upkeep phases to prevent Sacred Mesa's self-sacrifice clause from triggering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T20:46:28.350" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:46:28.350" Title="sacred mesa and activated abilities between untap and upkeep" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18333" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:11:23.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can save Mesa, but not in the way you specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't activate the ability before the triggered ability triggers, but you can save Mesa by creating a Pegasus in response to the Mesa's triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesa's triggered ability triggers as the Upkeep Step starts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesa's triggered ability is placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you activate Mesa's activated ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesa's activated ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a 1/1 white Pegasus creature token with flying into play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mesa's triggered ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You sacrifice the newly created Pegasus (or Mesa).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-23T20:23:15.273" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:23:15.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18333" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:19:31.587" Score="8" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Simple Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; save Sacred Mesa by creating a Pegasus &lt;strong&gt;in response to&lt;/strong&gt; Sacred Mesa's triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Detailed Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, you can't create a Pegasus &lt;strong&gt;between&lt;/strong&gt; your untap step and your upkeep step because you don't have an opportunity to do so. The beginning of your turn has the following sequence of events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your untap step:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You untap your permanents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your upkeep step:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abilities that trigger at the beginning of the upkeep go on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only cast spells and activate abilities when you have priority, so the first opportunity to do so is during your upkeep, when the ability is on the stack though. This still lets you save your Mesa, though, because you can respond to the triggered ability by activating Mesa's activated ability. Because the activated ability went on the stack last, it will resolve first, and you will have your Pegasus before you need to sacrifice one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:19:31.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18337" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:36:31.410" Score="4" ViewCount="20837" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I trade four of a kind to the bank on my special building phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8100" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T09:37:08.143" Title="settlers of catan expansion: Can I trade with the bank during the special building phase?" Tags="|catan|expansions|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18336" CreationDate="2014-07-23T20:39:43.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can only trade with the bank in your own trading phase. The special building phase is just for building!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-07-23T20:39:43.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27404" CreationDate="2014-07-23T23:01:07.847" Score="7" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, a lot of cards (in TCG world) are stopped being produced (and available in stores) at some point. Is there a known life span for Android Netrunner expansions? For example is there a known life span such as 2 years at which the &quot;Genesis&quot; six-pack will no longer be produced and available in stores so if you don't get it until then you'll have to get it second-hand from somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8102" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:31:08.553" Title="Are there any known &quot;available for purchase&quot; life spans for expansions for Android Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18338" CreationDate="2014-07-23T23:48:48.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;FFG made some promise when they started their LCG (Living Card Game) model, and this promise includes the fact that there should never ever be a concept of rarity in their card game. All cards should be as easily accessible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also includes the fact that they will re-produce older packs if there is a demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1603" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T18:31:08.553" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T18:31:08.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T01:03:51.277" Score="1" ViewCount="2196" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i have two cards that force opponents to sacrifice every upkeep like for example&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogis%20God%20of%20Slaughter&quot;&gt;Mogis God of Slaughter&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;At the beginning of each opponent’s upkeep, Mogis deals 2 damage to that player unless he or she sacrifices a creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Indulgent%20tormentor&quot;&gt;Indulgent tormentor&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, draw a card unless target opponent sacrifices a creature or pays 3 life.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the oppenent have to sacrifice twice? Or if they sacrifice Mogis's ability have they not allowed me to draw from indulgent tormentor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T01:34:17.007" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T16:40:51.837" Title="What happens if 2 separate abilities require you to sacrifice a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18340" CreationDate="2014-07-24T01:33:29.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will have to sacrifice 1 creature for each ability that triggers. So in this case, he would need to sacrifice 2 creatures to not lose life or let you draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an event (such as the beginning of upkeep) causes multiple triggered abilities to trigger; those abilities are dealt with completely independently of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As was pointed out in a comment; this is not relevant for your specific example, because in your example, each creature triggers at a different time; during different upkeeps. But if you had 2 Mogis, God of Slaughters on the battlefield, your opponent would have to sacrifice 2 creatures at the beginning of his upkeep to not take damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that similarly, if you have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogg%20Fanatic&quot;&gt;Mogg Fanatic&lt;/a&gt;, you cannot sacrifice it both to pay for its ability and at the same time count that as sacrificing a creature to prevent the damage or card draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T02:19:10.607" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T02:19:10.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18340" CreationDate="2014-07-24T01:35:34.017" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent has to sacrifice a different creature to each effect to stop that effect from happening. Note, however, that in your particular example, Mogis triggers only on your opponents' upkeeps and Indulgent Tormentor triggers only on your upkeep. However, if we consider the case where you control two Indulgent Tormentors, it's still basically the same question. And in that case, your opponent &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; have to sacrifice two creatures to stop you from drawing any cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, here's the order of actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As your upkeep begins, you choose who to target with each Tormentor trigger. In the interesting case, they both target the same player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming nobody does anything else in between, the first triggered ability resolves. Your opponent chooses whether or not to sacrifice a creature. If they don't, you draw a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second triggered ability resolves. Your opponent again chooses whether or not to sacrifice a creature. If they don't, you draw a card, independent of what happened in step 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T01:35:34.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18336" CreationDate="2014-07-24T09:46:14.117" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, trading with the bank even with your ports (2:1, 3:1) is not allowed.&#xA;If that rule did not exist, it would be very unlikely to have more than 7 cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from the rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/settlers_5-6_rv_rules_100107.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/settlers_5-6_rv_rules_100107.pdf&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Special Building Phase – Your opponents may build as outlined below. The Special Building Phase occurs just after the end of your turn (i.e., between player turns). All the other players may participate in the Special Building Phase. Each player then takes his turn clockwise around the table, and is allowed to build anything he can create with his resources. 3 Note that no player is allowed to play Development Cards during the Special Building Phase. &lt;strong&gt;Also note that players are not allowed to do any trading with other players—nor are they allowed to use Maritime Trade—during this phase.&lt;/strong&gt; They may only use the resources they have in their hands. For this reason, players are advised to trade as much, and as advantageously, as possible with the current player during his trading phase. They will then have the resources they need to build during the Special Building Phase. The Special Building Phase is an opportunity for all the other players (who are not currently taking their turn) to build roads, settlements, and cities, and/or to buy Development Cards. This phase allows each player to influence the game, even though it is not his turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8106" LastEditorUserId="8106" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T07:00:49.870" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T07:00:49.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18399" CreationDate="2014-07-24T12:29:43.720" Score="2" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got a Mordheim warband and I've love to take some of the heroes into battle in a Warhammer Fantasy game. Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the characteristics are similar but is there a mechanism to create a points value and translate his skills?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T13:02:19.107" Title="Is there a mechanism to bring Mordheim characters into Fantasy?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|mordheim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18345" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-24T12:30:42.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mordheim is a game skirmish developed by Games Workshop for small warbands in the Warhammer Fantasy world several hundred years before the Fantasy Battles era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="6161" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T12:45:09.987" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T12:45:09.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18346" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-24T12:30:42.310" Score="0" Body="Mordheim is a game developed by Games Workshop for small warbands in the Warhammer Fantasy setting." OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="6161" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T12:45:04.547" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T12:45:04.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2014-07-24T13:14:23.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Deckbuilder's Toolkit comes with 4 randomized booster packs.  So instead of getting 9 packs from 1 set (as you would in a fat pack), you will probably get a pack from four different sets.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are into card collecting, the 2015 Deckbuilder's Toolkit comes with 15 exclusive cards.  Other than the toolkit, the only way you can get these cards is from free intro decks at gaming stores, conventions, etc. or buying them as singles online.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8109" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T13:14:23.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T14:52:40.513" Score="0" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have to sacrifice a creature every beginning of my upkeep and I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rescue%20from%20Underworld&quot;&gt;Rescue from Underworld&lt;/a&gt;, will I get past the sacrifice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8103" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T16:30:57.637" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T16:30:57.637" Title="Sacrifice help With MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-07-24T16:32:00.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18350" CreationDate="2014-07-24T15:29:03.120" Score="4" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;At exactly what stage of combat would a Competitive REL judge change his ruling from &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;The trigger happens&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Your opponent decides&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;The trigger was missed&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger happens &lt;strong&gt;-&amp;gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Your opponent decides &lt;strong&gt;-&amp;gt;&lt;/strong&gt; The trigger was missed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To help answer this question, I have enumerated a few stages of combat. Feel free to reference these in your answer. Please assume a clean slate - no judge warnings, no prior history of poor conduct, and a generally positive but strict attitude from both players involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent declares &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ash%20Zealot&quot;&gt;Ash Zealot&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ash%20Zealot&quot;&gt;Ash Zealot&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Legion%20Loyalist&quot;&gt;Legion Loyalist&lt;/a&gt; as attackers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent pauses for five seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent passes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Declare Blockers Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I block Legion Loyalist with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent pauses for five seconds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent passes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent assigns first strike damage from the two Ash Zealots. He neglects to assign Legion Loyalist's damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I shouldn't need to continue. Once we arrive at the combat damage step, the trigger has clearly been forgotten. If for some reason the trigger could still be &amp;quot;remembered&amp;quot; after first strike damage has already been dealt, please explain why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a real game, players generally do not explicitly pass priority. Generally, one of the players will simply offer &amp;quot;Declare blockers?&amp;quot; If this would have an effect on the judge's ruling, please explain. I suspect that explicit priority passes would be more incriminating than shortcuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why am I asking this question?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I declare blockers, I need to determine if the trigger occurred without reminding my opponent while he still has a chance to &amp;quot;remember&amp;quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:30:02.347" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:30:02.347" Title="When is a battalion trigger considered &quot;missed&quot; at Competitive REL?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18349" CreationDate="2014-07-24T15:47:59.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot;&gt;DCI Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;, describes very specifically how the judge should rule various infractions, and section 2.1 covers missed triggers. It describes both when a trigger is considered to be missed and what the penalty should be. In your case, Legion Loyalist's Battalion ability changes the game state in non-visible ways by giving abilities to creatures. Therefore, according to that document, its controller has to mention it the first time it would affect visible state or it is forgotten. In this particular case, that means that &lt;strong&gt;the trigger is considered forgotten if the player doesn't mention it by the time Legion Loyalist would deal first strike damage&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happens, the judge is instructed to issue a warning only if the triggered ability's effect would be detrimental to its controller. Otherwise, they are not supposed to intervene unless they think the player is intentionally missing the triggers. This is one of those non-intervention casees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a judge &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; intervene, the Additional Remedy subsection at the end of the missed triggers section describes how the game state may be corrected. In this case, the ability does not &quot;specify a default action associated with a choice made by the controller&quot; and is not &quot;a delayed triggered ability that changes the zone of an object&quot;. The triggered ability creates an effect (granting abilities) so if that effect's &quot;duration has already expired&quot; (at the end of that player's turn), then play continues and the ability is ignored. Otherwise, the judge follows the final paragraph of that subsection and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the opponent chooses whether the triggered ability is added to the stack. If it is, it’s inserted at the appropriate place on the stack if possible or on the bottom of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The overall effect of this is that if a judge is called over in regards to this missed trigger, then if it is still the same turn, then the ability's controller's opponent (you) chooses whether the ability goes on the stack. Otherwise, you ignore it and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T17:29:22.437" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T17:29:22.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18340" CreationDate="2014-07-24T16:40:51.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice the Bully comes to you and says &amp;quot;I'll clobber you unless you give your lunch money.&amp;quot; You give her your money to avoid the beating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few minutes later, Bob the Bully comes to you and says &amp;quot;I'll clobber you unless you give your lunch money.&amp;quot; Do you think telling him that you already gave it to Alice will help at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Indulgent%20Tormentor&quot;&gt;Indulgent Tormentor&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and it's the beginning of your upkeep. Each Tormentor's ability goes on the stack. One of them resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;draw a card unless target opponent sacrifices a creature or pays 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponent you targeted now chooses to sacrifice a creature, to pay 3 life, or to do neither. Then he either sacrifices a creature, loses 3 life or you draw a card. It doesn't matter what other creatures he might have sacrificed or what other life he payed earlier in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the other ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;draw a card unless target opponent sacrifices a creature or pays 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponent you targeted now chooses to sacrifice a creature, to pay 3 life, or to do neither. Then he either sacrifices a creature, loses 3 life or you draw a card. It doesn't matter what other creatures he might have sacrificed or what other life he payed earlier in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T16:40:51.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18349" CreationDate="2014-07-24T16:48:49.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether the trigger is important for the game state. I suggest reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DCI Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;, section 2.1 about missed triggers, for specific triggers you could have in mind. Summarily, if the game state is no longer restorable, the trigger will either be resolved in a delayed manner or not be resolved at all, depending on what the trigger does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of your example, whether the trigger is remembered or not changes nothing to the game state in the end, since your opponent will probably assign Legion Loyalist's damages at the second combat damage step. In the end, the result will be the same, so if a judge comes after that, he would let it pass. The first strike is not detrimental to your opponent, so the judge will assume it was not intentional to forget it, and no one gets a warning. Both players continue to play as if the trigger wasn't forgotten.&#xA;If the judge was there from the beginning, well, I guess it's his job to see the forgotten trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's say you have something to play at the end of the first combat damage step. In that case, from the moment you do that &quot;something&quot;, the trigger will be considered missed since the game will no longer be in restorable state (example: casting an instant to destroy the legion loyalist).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8111" LastEditorUserId="8111" LastEditDate="2014-07-24T17:37:00.693" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T17:37:00.693" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18323" CreationDate="2014-07-24T17:46:54.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest checking out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/128882/resistance-avalon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek Avalon community&lt;/a&gt;. People regularly record their play sessions and the users on the forums are usually willing to go into in-depth analysis and discussion on game setup and configuration. For instance, even one of the most recent forum discussions is about &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1182429/weirdfun-statistical-anomalies-your-games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;statistical anomalies in Avalon games&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3228" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T17:46:54.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18355" CreationDate="2014-07-24T17:59:38.580" Score="1" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a card with an ability that triggers when it is turned face up, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coral%20Trickster&quot;&gt;Coral Trickster&lt;/a&gt;, does it still trigger when turned face up in exile, for example  when imprinted on a dying &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone%20Shell&quot;&gt;Clone Shell&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2566" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T18:11:06.033" Title="Do abilities that trigger when a card is turned face up trigger when that card is in exile?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18354" CreationDate="2014-07-24T18:11:06.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the turned face up ability does not trigger when the card is in the exile zone. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 112.6&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ability does not match any of the exceptions, so it does not function when the creature is not on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-07-24T18:11:06.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-24T18:53:33.640" Score="2" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instruction pages for the online &lt;a href=&quot;http://judge.wizards.com/exams.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DCI Judges exams/practice tests&lt;/a&gt; (requires login) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before you start, it's important to note that, in order for the testing experience to remain relevant and give everyone a good gauge of their knowledge &lt;strong&gt;you may not disclose any of the content on any of the tests, anywhere.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case what should I do if there was a question/interaction I did not understand even after the explanation given?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T17:07:29.013" Title="What can I do if I still do not understand an interaction from a DCI online test?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18357" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-25T03:13:36.637" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T03:13:36.637" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T03:13:36.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18358" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-25T03:13:36.637" Score="0" Body="Game designer Uwe Rosenberg's sequel to popular farming strategy game Agricola — this time, Cave Farmers, with mining added to the mix." OwnerUserId="317" LastEditorUserId="317" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T11:38:44.263" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T11:38:44.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18359" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18360" CreationDate="2014-07-25T04:03:38.340" Score="0" ViewCount="767" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a spell (for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373525&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dauntless Onslaught&lt;/a&gt;) that targets more than a single target, if both of them have a reaction (Heroic, for example) to being targeted which happens first? The specific case I'm wondering about is if I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378401&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vanguard of Brimaz&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373592&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phalanx Leader&lt;/a&gt;, the order in which they are triggered matters because the newly created creature token may or may not have the +1/+1 counter that Phalanx Leader could give it, though this is something that could happen with any spell or ability that has multiple targets, where there are multiple thigns that could be triggered in some way by the effect of the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7402" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T04:58:28.537" Title="In what order do single spells or abilities that target multiple targets trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18359" CreationDate="2014-07-25T04:08:42.480" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vanguard%20of%20Brimaz&quot;&gt;Vanguard of Brimaz&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phalanx%20Leader&quot;&gt;Phalanx Leader&lt;/a&gt; trigger on the spell being cast. There's only one spell being cast, so their abilities trigger simultaneously. The next time a player would get priority, you get to place the triggered abilities on the stack in the order you desire. (If the abilities of more than one player triggered simultaneously, each player starting with the with active player would place their abilities on the stack in the order of their choice.) They resolve in the opposite order (last in, first out), so you'd place Phalanx Leader's ability on the stack first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dauntless%20Onslaught&quot;&gt;Dauntless Onslaught&lt;/a&gt; targeting Vanguard of Brimaz and Phalanx Leader. Simultaneously,&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanguard of Brimaz's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phalanx Leader's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phalanx Leader's triggered ability is placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanguard of Brimaz's triggered ability is placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanguard of Brimaz's triggered ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a 1/1 white Cat Soldier creature token with vigilance onto the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phalanx Leader's triggered ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dauntless Onslaught resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanguard of Brimaz and Phalanx Leader get +2/+2 until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T04:58:28.537" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T04:58:28.537" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18361" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-25T04:28:37.533" Score="2" ViewCount="1178" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose an opponent plays a card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lyev%20Decree&quot;&gt;Lyev Decree&lt;/a&gt; to detain one or two of my creatures until the opponents next turn. If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; in my hand, would I be able to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; to gain control of, and attack, with target creature once my turn comes around again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; states that I gain control of target creature until end of turn and that creature also gains haste until eot. Just wondering if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lyev%20Decree&quot;&gt;Lyev Decree&lt;/a&gt; would prevent me from gaining control again of my creature, basically countering &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8116" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T04:38:45.373" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T04:45:27.917" Title="Can Act of Treason allow a Detained creature to attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18361" CreationDate="2014-07-25T04:35:13.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot do that. Changing control of the creatures would have no effect on the fact that they are detained. This is because changing control, just like changing characteristics of an object on the battlefield, doesn't cause it to become a new object, or reenter the battlefield, or anything like that. Even if you changed it into a non-creature, then back into a creature, it would still be unable to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you never lost control of your creatures, so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; would not cause the creatures to change control. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lyev%20Decree&quot;&gt;Lyev Decree&lt;/a&gt; isn't preventing you from gaining control; you already have control. You simply can't attack or block with those creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were able to blink the creature with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Momentary%20Blink&quot;&gt;Momentary Blink&lt;/a&gt;; this would work, because when an object changes zones; it becomes a completely new object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T04:45:27.917" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T04:45:27.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2014-07-25T09:09:27.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play the Ticket to Ride Map Collection: Volume 1 – Team Asia &amp;amp; Legendary Asia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play the Team Asia in the form of 3 teams of 2 persons. Playing in form of teams it is far more tense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8118" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-25T09:55:56.083" LastActivityDate="2014-07-25T09:55:56.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18338" CreationDate="2014-07-25T14:37:57.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theoretically?  I don't see them ending production on a specific cycle.  The way Fantasy Flight talks and creates cards, they plan on keeping all of those options available for the future.  The LCG philosophy makes it so that no one person is going to wreck another one because of the super power of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realisticly?  I'm sure FFG will find a time in the future (given that Netrunner continues to run for a long time) where they don't see as many sales of the older cycles.  At that point, I can see the company doing one of two things: they will either roll up an entire cycle and sell it as a bulk set at less of a price (say the entire Spin Cycle as one whole purchase) or they will try and discontinue the set and put it into archive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that being said, my suggestion to you is to NOT be behind more then one cycle of cards.  Right now, if you don't have the whole Genesis Cycle, you need to get it.  Also, if you don't have a few packs of the Spin Cycle, you're a little behind.  And if you don't have Creation and Control, I feel that your deck building options aren't as robust as they could be.  I'm not saying you won't be able to make a deck.  But the newer cycles, C&amp;amp;C and H&amp;amp;P all have some 'golden' cards that are defining the meta of the game right now.  You can still play, but competitive play will be seeing people playing along with the meta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few months ago, FFG did mention that they will be cycling out current sets of cards as being tournament viable.  Much the same way that Magic has a Type 1 and Type 2, Netrunner will only have the latest 6 cycles active at any one time.  Meaning that when we get to the 8th cycle, Genesis and Spin cycle will be phased out of tournament play.  This does NOT mean that they'll end production on these cards, but it's a pretty good guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T19:02:49.930" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T19:02:49.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18372" CreationDate="2014-07-25T15:21:26.350" Score="-2" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skill tokens allow you to add your luck to the attribute you are testing. In the case where you need to check your luck, can you use a skill token to effectively double your attribute score?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. a luck value of 3 becomes 6 after using a skill token because you are adding your luck to your luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T14:14:22.803" Title="Can an Investigator use a skill token when attempting a luck check?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18489" CreationDate="2014-07-25T15:28:36.403" Score="0" ViewCount="612" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Blood Ties scenario (1C), there are two map tiles that are connected via a ladder token. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the &lt;code&gt;Pyromaniac&lt;/code&gt; keeper action, can I spread fire to the room that is connected via the ladder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T13:34:23.930" Title="Can fire spread to rooms that are connected via a ladder?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18488" CreationDate="2014-07-25T15:33:45.243" Score="2" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our last (and first) game, an investigator attempted to move through a room that had an obstacle which revealed a puzzle. He was unable to resolve the puzzle on his turn. We only counted the attempted move and puzzle solve as &lt;strong&gt;one movement point&lt;/strong&gt;. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On his next turn, does he (or any other investigator for that matter) need to use a movement point to reattempt to solve the puzzle or an action point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T13:21:36.747" Title="Does attempting a puzzle require a movement point or an action point?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18368" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18667" CreationDate="2014-07-25T15:36:19.593" Score="5" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Harvey Walters has a special ability that allows him to solve any rune puzzle once per game for a certain cost (can't remember exactly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the scenarios requires the investigators to solve a rune puzzle to win. Can Harvey Walters just use this ability to win the game (which seems very anti-climatic)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T17:05:39.870" Title="Can Harvey Walters solve the final rune puzzle with his special ability?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18020" CreationDate="2014-07-25T21:47:37.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a SQL database for cards from Base Set =&gt; Double Crisis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/Guernouille/pokeplayer/tree/master/database&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://github.com/Guernouille/pokeplayer/tree/master/database&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pokeplayer.com/cardex/search&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://pokeplayer.com/cardex/search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorUserId="8121" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T13:50:48.267" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T13:50:48.267" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18367" CreationDate="2014-07-26T14:11:05.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say movement point or use the action as a move. So yes you are correct. I believe the manual says somthing about that if you encounter a locked door you stop your movement in front of the door.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T14:11:05.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18365" CreationDate="2014-07-26T14:14:22.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual page 13 says:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;A player may never spend a skill point to add his Luck to his Luck.&quot;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So no that is not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1193" LastActivityDate="2014-07-26T14:14:22.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-26T15:43:36.677" Score="5" ViewCount="3510" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/05/SU_Robot_MicroFixer.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Microbot Fixer&lt;/a&gt; has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If this is the first minion you played this turn, you may play an extra minion. &lt;strong&gt;Ongoing: Each of your Microbots gains +1 power.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Microbot Fixer is already in play, can I play the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/05/SU_Robot_MicroAlpha.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Microbot Alpha&lt;/a&gt; with its ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ongoing&lt;/strong&gt; : Gains +1 power for each of your other Microbots. &lt;strong&gt;All of your minions are considered Microbots.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to &lt;strong&gt;boost the power of my other non-robot/non-Microbot&lt;/strong&gt; cards in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, does the phrase &quot;All of your minions are considered Microbots&quot; affect my other cards (by modifying them into Microbots, allowing them to benefit from the +1 fixer ability), or does it only serve to guide the calculation of the Microbot Alpha's final power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7220" LastEditorUserId="1873" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T05:36:41.593" LastActivityDate="2021-05-09T03:27:04.803" Title="Smash Up: Microbot Fixer + Microbot Alpha" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18392" CreationDate="2014-07-26T22:25:38.683" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, if you overcall two clubs over an opening one spade, you haven't taken up much bidding space, because your overcall hasn't kept your opponents out of any suits, only one NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you overcall two clubs over one diamond, you've done quite a bit more damage, because you have prevent your opponents from bidding a major (or no trump) at the one level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it therefore follow that you can overcall two clubs with a slightly weaker hand over one diamond than a one spade bid because the &quot;disruption&quot; to the opponents is significantly greater?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, assuming all other things being equal, like vulnerability and part scores. Perhaps the type of game might make a difference in the answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T14:22:18.027" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T14:22:18.027" Title="Should you overcall with a (slightly) weaker hand if it is more &quot;disruptive?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2014-07-26T23:19:31.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to think that 1-level overcalls have three purposes, at least two of which should be fulfilled to justify the overcall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Showing values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Directing the defense (ie showing a good suit you want partner to lead)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preempting the opponents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So eg I'm happier to overcall 1S over 1C with a weaker hand than over 1H.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2-level overcalls are trickier. It is far easier for opponents to penalize you at the 2-level, and it's more difficult for your side to make the game-partscore decision when you have the bulk of the high cards because there's less bidding room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One rule I've heard is that a minimum opener with 5332 shape is insufficient for a 2-over-1 overcall, but many ten-counts with a good 6-card suit are sufficient. And it does seem reasonable to stretch a little to bid 2C over 1D, but not too far. As a friend of mine likes to say, 2-level overcalls are serious business.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T00:42:14.910" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T00:42:14.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-27T02:42:16.967" Score="1" ViewCount="4213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a card named &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alloy%20Myr&quot;&gt;Alloy Myr&lt;/a&gt;. It's an artifact creature with the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add one mana of any color to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this ability be used multiple times, but in different turns of course?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8126" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T04:23:20.627" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T18:46:59.843" Title="Can I activate a tap ability multiple times, though on different turns?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18377" CreationDate="2014-07-27T03:04:13.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use that ability once a turn (usually), but not the turn it entered the battlefield. The ability you describe is an activated ability, where the cost is tapping the creature and the effect is adding one mana to your mana pool. You can only pay the cost (by tapping) when a creature is untapped, so you can't use the ability multiple times in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To tap a permanent, you turn it sideways. At the beginning of each of your turns, you untap all of your permanents, so generally you can use abilities that require you to tap the permanent once per turn. There are also effects that can untap permanents (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Twiddle&quot;&gt;Twiddle&lt;/a&gt;), so if you use one of those you can activate the ability again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures have summoning sickness. This means that you cannot tap the creature to pay an activated ability's cost or attack with it unless you controlled it since the beginning of your turn. So you can't use this particular creature's ability until the turn after you play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To summarize:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can use a 'tap' ability on a permanent as long as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The permanent is &lt;strong&gt;on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;currently untapped&lt;/strong&gt;, AND&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The permanent is &lt;strong&gt;not being prevented from tapping&lt;/strong&gt;, either by summoning sickness or by another ability (e.g. 'cannot use activated abilities')&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All permanents untap automatically during your &lt;strong&gt;untap step&lt;/strong&gt; (at the start of your turn) unless something has prevented them from doing so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a permanent has &lt;strong&gt;Haste&lt;/strong&gt;, it ignores summoning sickness, and therefore &lt;strong&gt;can be tapped on the turn it enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; (unless otherwise prevented from doing so as per above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T18:46:59.843" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T18:46:59.843" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18381" CreationDate="2014-07-27T03:19:57.020" Score="6" ViewCount="9373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm somewhat new to Magic the Gathering and my friend is slightly more experienced than me, so I gave him this one, but am questioning it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has a card called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensoul%20Artifact&quot;&gt;Ensoul Artifact&lt;/a&gt; which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant artifact&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted artifact is a creature with base power and toughness 5/5 in addition to its other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He always puts this card on an &lt;em&gt;Artifact creature&lt;/em&gt; with a gazillion power/toughness, to make it a gazillion +5 power and toughness.  Is this possible?  Isn't there a difference between &lt;em&gt;Artifact&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Artifact creature&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, what does &amp;quot;In addition to its other types&amp;quot; mean?  I always assumed that my friend is wrong, and you can only place it on an &lt;em&gt;Artifact&lt;/em&gt; which gives it 5/5 in addition to whatever else the Artifact does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8127" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T03:29:55.693" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T13:14:40.930" Title="Enchant artifact used to enchant Artifact creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18380" CreationDate="2014-07-27T03:42:08.210" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Isn't there a difference between&lt;/em&gt; Artifact &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; Artifact creature&lt;i&gt;?&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An artifact creature card on the battlefield is an artifact. It's also a creature, but that's not relevant here. As long as it's an artifact, Ensoul can enchant and affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;He always puts this card on an Artifact creature with a gazillion power/toughness, to make it a gazillion +5 power and toughness. Is this possible?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't grant +5/+5. It &lt;em&gt;sets&lt;/em&gt; (replaces) the &lt;em&gt;base&lt;/em&gt; power and toughness. That &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; effectively result in an increase of 5 in both stats, but not necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ornithopter&quot;&gt;Ornithopter&lt;/a&gt; (0/2) with a +1/+1 counter on it, and the Ornithopter is equipped with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bladed%20Bracers&quot;&gt;Bladed Bracers&lt;/a&gt; (+1/+1 to the equipped creature). It's 2/4. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensoul%20Artifact&quot;&gt;Ensoul Artifact&lt;/a&gt; would change its base P/T from 0/2 to 5/5, making it a 7/7. The toughness only went up by 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbound%20Bruiser&quot;&gt;Arcbound Bruiser&lt;/a&gt; has a base P/T of 0/0, and enters the battlefield with three +1/+1 counters, so it's normally a 3/3. If it were Ensouled, it would becomes 8/8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also, what does &amp;quot;In addition to its other types&amp;quot; mean?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an effect sets a card's type, it loses its other types unless that wording is used&lt;sup&gt;[CR 205.1a-b][1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that wording, a non-creature artifact becomes an artifact creature when Ensouled. Without that wording, it would become a non-artifact creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's one exception: effects that set the type to &amp;quot;artifact creature&amp;quot; (very specifically) &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; don't cause other types to be lost. This doesn't apply to Ensoul Artifact, since the type is being set to &amp;quot;creature&amp;quot; not &amp;quot;artifact creature&amp;quot; (though the presence of the &amp;quot;in addition&amp;quot; wording makes the difference rather minor), but it's important to note for similar cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Artifact&quot;&gt;Animate Artifact&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T22:07:57.683" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T22:07:57.683" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18383" CreationDate="2014-07-27T05:12:48.373" Score="11" ViewCount="6820" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I equip my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJuggernaut%5d&quot;&gt;Juggernaut&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Juggernaut can't be blocked by Walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProwler%27s%5d%2b%5bHelm%5d&quot;&gt;Prowler&amp;#39;s Helm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Equipped creature can't be blocked except by Walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or if I enchant my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharging%20Rhino%5d&quot;&gt;Charging Rhino&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Charging Rhino can't be blocked by more than one creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPurphoros%27s%5d%2b%5bEmissary%5d&quot;&gt;Purphoros&amp;#39;s Emissary&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature gets +3/+3 and has menace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6513/5808&quot;&gt;this very detailed answer&lt;/a&gt;, I'd say they're both unblockable, but I'm wondering if the word &quot;except&quot; allows the blocker to block if he or she satisfies the &quot;except&quot; condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5808" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-02-20T13:08:25.667" LastActivityDate="2019-02-20T13:08:25.667" Title="What happens when creature has two mutually exclusive restrictions on what can block them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2014-07-27T05:18:49.683" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the end result is that they cannot be blocked. When Juggernaut says &amp;quot;can't be blocked by Walls&amp;quot;, it means &amp;quot;can't be blocked by creatures that are Walls&amp;quot; and when Prowler's Helm says &amp;quot;can't be blocked except by Walls&amp;quot;, it means &amp;quot;If a blocker is declared for this creature, that blocker has to be a Wall&amp;quot;. So the end result is that the opponent can't legally declare anything to block that Juggernaut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second instance has the same conclusion. Charging Rhino's ability means &amp;quot;no more than one blocker can be declared for this creature&amp;quot; and Purphoros's Emissary's ability means &amp;quot;if blockers are declared for this creature, there have to be 2&amp;quot;. The result is that the only legal number of blockers for that creature is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Blockers_Step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;509.1b&lt;/a&gt;, which is part of the procedure for declaring blockers (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can't block, or that it can't block unless some condition is met). &lt;strong&gt;If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of blockers is illegal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A restriction may be created by an evasion ability (a static ability an attacking creature has that restricts what can block it)&lt;/strong&gt;. If an attacking creature gains or loses an evasion ability after a legal block has been declared, it doesn't affect that block. Different evasion abilities are cumulative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, since a block is illegal if &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; restriction is disobeyed, if two restrictions put together restrict all creatures from blocking, then no creature can block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T05:32:53.167" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18374" CreationDate="2014-07-27T05:36:16.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All your minions gain +1 power, because they are all Microbots.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/08/SU-FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: When a card makes all of your minions microbots, and further then gives all of your microbots strength bonuses, is the effect only local to the base those cards are located or are those effects global?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: If the text does not reference “on this base” or “at this base” then it is global.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules explain&lt;/a&gt; how to handle &lt;strong&gt;Ongoing&lt;/strong&gt; abilities. Since both the &lt;strong&gt;Alpha Microbot&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Microbot Fixer&lt;/strong&gt;'s effect are active as long as it is in play, all your Minions are Microbots and they all gain +1 Power, and the Alpha gets an additional bonus equal to the number of other Minions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ongoing&lt;/strong&gt;: Most abilities happen, and then they're over. Ongoing abilities are active for as long as they're in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T05:36:16.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14107" CreationDate="2014-07-27T17:41:28.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I spoke to someone in Games Workshop today, this is what they told me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly it's important to remember that you can't die out of combat. The first model to remove would be the outer one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do get into the situation above (for example if there are characters involved). There are a few ways to resolve. You can remove the flanking unit from combat by moving them back an edge or you can slide one of the units in so that the combat can continue. Locking the flank unit in the combat but unable to strike could be argued but it's not really in the spirit of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing official in the book so it's a matter of agreeing with your opponent which scenario is fairest. If in doubt roll for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T17:41:28.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18382" CreationDate="2014-07-27T19:18:28.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you actually had mutually exclusive effects (e.g. &amp;quot;X must block Y&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;X can't block Y&amp;quot;), those limiting what you can do would win over those that permit you do something. This is colloquially known as &amp;quot;can't trumps can&amp;quot;, and it's the second Golden Rule of MTG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can’t happen, the “can’t” effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, you need to comply with the most requirements (&amp;quot;must&amp;quot;) as possible while complying with all restrictions (&amp;quot;can't&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1c [...] If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of attackers is illegal. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1d [...] If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of attackers is illegal. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, neither of the scenario you posted actually have mutually exclusive effects. One is quite capable of obeying both restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Juggernaut can't be blocked by Walls&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Equipped creature can't be blocked except by Walls&amp;quot; are not mutually exclusive. It's possible to obey both restrictions by not blocking the Juggernaut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Charging Rhino can't be blocked by more than one creature&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Enchanted creature gets +3/+3 and can't be blocked except by two or more creatures&amp;quot; are not mutually exclusive. It's possible to obey both restrictions by not blocking the Rhino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One must obey all blocking restrictions&lt;sup&gt;[CR 508.1c]&lt;/sup&gt;, so one would not be able to block the Juggernaut or the Rhino in the scenarios you presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T17:55:17.810" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18388" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18391" CreationDate="2014-07-27T19:53:06.387" Score="9" ViewCount="2455" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my opponent asks if I am &amp;quot;tapped out&amp;quot; is it reasonable to assume they are referring to land only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say for example my opponent goes to declare attackers and asks if I am &amp;quot;tapped out&amp;quot;. I have no land available but 3 untapped white creatures on the field and and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devouring%20Light&quot;&gt;Devouring Light&lt;/a&gt; in my hand. I might mention them as blockers, but if they could not block his creatures for some reason I might just say yes. Would that be considered dishonest? What is the best way to answer this question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-27T23:43:05.520" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T20:54:17.673" Title="What do I say when an opponent asks if I'm &quot;tapped out&quot;, especially if I still have a means of casting a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18388" CreationDate="2014-07-27T20:27:17.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In situations like this, it's probably best to just respond more specifically, and see if they ask anything else. They are likely asking about available mana, so you could say &quot;I have no untapped lands&quot; or &quot;I can't tap anything for mana.&quot; Then you can let them probe further if that's not what they meant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T20:27:17.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3700" CreationDate="2014-07-27T20:46:17.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, combat ensues normally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Whenever a player marches one or more of his units into an area containing units from another House, combat ensues.&quot; on p17&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are still units. And there is no rule telling you otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;But they provide 0 combat strength:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Routed units provide no Combat Strength, but still count towards a player’s supply limit.&quot; on p21&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;And they can't retreat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;If a routed unit is forced to retreat, it is instead destroyed.&quot; on p21&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6387" LastEditorUserId="6387" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T09:43:01.320" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T09:43:01.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18388" CreationDate="2014-07-27T21:04:38.983" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let me tell you about your obligations with regards to providing information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three categories of information: free, derived and private.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Free information is information to which all players are entitled access without contamination or omissions made by their opponents. If a player is ever unable or unwilling to provide free information to an opponent that has requested it, he or she should call a judge and explain the situation. Free information includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The physical status (tapped/flipped/unattached/phased) and current zone of any object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Derived information is information to which all players are entitled access, but opponents are not obliged to assist in determining and may require some skill or calculation to determine. Derived information includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Private information is information to which players have access only if they are able to determine it from the current visual game state or their own record of previous game actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Regular REL, all derived information is instead considered free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he's seeking to know which of your permanents are tapped, you are obligated to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he's seeking for more than that, you are only obligated to answer when Regular Rule Enforcement Level is in effect. (This is the REL used at events such as FNM.) Determining which of your permanents are lands or which of them have mana abilities is derived information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you are obligated to answer or not, all answers must be truthful and without omission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On to your question. Given that he didn't mention lands or mana, I see three alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can could ask what he means.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could overload him with information. For example, &amp;quot;I have many untapped permanents. J, K, L and M are untapped.&amp;quot; For all you know, he's asking if you have any potential blockers. If not, &amp;quot;Oh, you just wanted to know about land? Dully noted.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could misdirect while being fully truthful. For example, &amp;quot;only non-lands aren't tapped&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T04:41:05.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18375" CreationDate="2014-07-27T22:49:53.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that your supposition is correct. Just be sure to discuss it with your partner since you always want him to know what to expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more see Mike Lawrence's &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/shopping/product/3923889751367429973?q=The%20Complete%20Book%20of%20Overcalls%20in%20Contract%20Bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Complete Book of Overcalls in Contract Bridge&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2014-07-27T22:49:53.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6209" CreationDate="2014-07-28T04:47:16.800" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it does, this ruling hasn't changed, and probably wont since its very rare to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Captain Sisay&quot; Searches your library for legendary card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card retains all text relevant to the card anywhere except rfg. Note the card says 'All permanents are enchantments.' Not 'All permanents you control...' This ruling is used a lot pre-eight. And will more than likely not change since most formats that allow pre-eight cards are considered casual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this has helped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8140" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:32:49.000" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:32:49.000" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18398" CreationDate="2014-07-28T09:52:00.817" Score="2" ViewCount="3985" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phytotitan&quot;&gt;Phytotitan&lt;/a&gt;, it's a 7/2 creature wich states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Phytotitan dies, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control tapped at the beginning of his or her next upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Phytotitan dies and afterwards is exiled from the graveyard, does it still return to the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8141" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T15:27:45.817" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T23:04:32.460" Title="Does Phytotitan return to the battlefield when it first died and then was exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18396" CreationDate="2014-07-28T10:32:45.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it enters the graveyard, the &quot;return it to the battlefield under its owner's control tapped at the beginning of his or her next upkeep&quot; goes on the stack. If you react to it by exiling it from the graveyard, that resolves first, so it won't come back to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same thing is true for example with creatures with undying or persist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/edit: When the ability resolves successfully, and it is exiled after that. It shouldn't matter if the card is still in the graveyard, since the card doesn't state it returns from the graveyard. (I'm not 100% sure about this, about 99,9% sure)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="5859" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T11:34:09.753" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T11:34:09.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18396" CreationDate="2014-07-28T11:34:58.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't return. When Phytotitan dies, its ability triggers, and then when that ability resolves, it sets up a separate, delayed triggered ability that will automatically go off at the beginning of the owner's next upkeep. That delayed triggered ability is &quot;watching&quot; the Phytotitan card in the graveyard. If the card changes zones (such as by getting exiled), then the delayed triggered ability loses track of it, so when the delayed ability resolves, it won't find the Phytotitan and thus won't return it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies even if Phytotitan is removed from the graveyard and then put back, by the way. The delayed triggered ability only tracks the card as long as it stays put in the graveyard, and if the card is moved elsewhere, the ability stops tracking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.7c. A delayed triggered ability that refers to a particular object still affects it even if the object changes characteristics. However, if that object is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at the time the delayed triggered ability resolves, the ability won’t affect it. (Note that if that object left that zone and then returned, it’s a new object and thus won’t be affected. See rule 400.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="8141" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T12:29:39.530" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T12:29:39.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18344" CreationDate="2014-07-28T11:56:25.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official method of doing this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However at out local club we do things like this all the time as we often play casual games for fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would advise looking for the lord/hero with the closest stat line and use his base points, make sure you don't have any lower stats that the codex character though. &#xA;Use his equipment list for any items you have and for any items that character cant take but you have look to other entries starting with those closed the the characters you used as your base point. if you have a hero look at the other heroes but if you used a lord choice look at the other lords before the heroes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you agree this with your opponent first, it would work best if both of you are trying to do this. And remember this type of thing is just for fun, don't expect it to be balanced or even competitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="6161" LastEditDate="2014-07-28T12:46:48.207" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T12:46:48.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18396" CreationDate="2014-07-28T15:33:56.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time a card or token changes zone, it becomes a new object&lt;sup&gt;[CR 400.7]&lt;/sup&gt;. There's an exception allowing the triggered ability to see the newly formed object in the graveyard&lt;sup&gt;[CR 400.7d]&lt;/sup&gt;. That's the only object the triggered ability can fetch back. If the object ceases to exist because the card leaves the graveyard (even if it comes back), the triggered ability can't find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7d Abilities that trigger when an object moves from one zone to another (for example, “When Rancor is put into a graveyard from the battlefield”) can find the new object that it became in the zone it moved to when the ability triggered, if that zone is a public zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is summarized by CR 603.7c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.7c. A delayed triggered ability that refers to a particular object still affects it even if the object changes characteristics. However, if that object is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at the time the delayed triggered ability resolves, the ability won’t affect it. (Note that if that object left that zone and then returned, it’s a new object and thus won’t be affected. See rule 400.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-03-26T23:04:32.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18356" CreationDate="2014-07-28T16:30:26.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You probably have some sort of judge-mentor, which is either a higher Level judge that might eventually take your judge-test or your regional coordinator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was a question or interaction that you did not understand after the explanation, you can talk with this mentor in private about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8120" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T16:30:26.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9314" CreationDate="2014-07-28T17:28:52.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a &quot;well known problem&quot;. I'd suggest to check out the variants mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11173/6387&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/803739/balanced-game-ideas-4-or-5-players&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We prefer the &quot;Rumble in the South&quot; alternative:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this variant, Stark and Greyjoy are unplayable and their lands are impassable. The impassable regions thus include: Bay of Ice, Flint's Finger, Ironman's Bay, Seagard, The Mountains of the Moon and The Narrow Sea. This variant is excellent at creating a true 4-way battle with shifting alliances! However I tend to make the win condition only 6 castles instead of 7 to speed up the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the above Lannister tends to be overpowered because of these things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't have the Greyjoys at their backs all game long.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoney Sept is a strategic position by the capability of giving support to six other territories.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoney Sept has six barrels in its neighborhood and Lannisters almost always capture Blackwater because of it and end with a level six supply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Tyrells can't contain the Lannister ships at all (all the ships are going against them and Lannisters almost always have a larger army (because of the supply value).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their strongholds are far from the line of battle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have two alternatives to refine this, I prefer the first one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoney Sept and Blackwater is separated (like having a river): no support, no march, no raid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weaken (or even ommit) Riverrun: changing it to a castle and removing the barrel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also tried weakening Blackwater (removing barrels), but it was a failed attempt... it lowered the motivation of others to fight for it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the other hand, Baratheon gets weak as hell (because of the lack barrels... they weren't able to capture Blackwater in the games we played), if the cards doesn't come in a really good order...&#xA;So we decided to keep the area called &quot;The Mountains of the Moon&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6387" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T17:28:52.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2014-07-28T18:08:31.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The toolkit can also be used as an introduction to limited formats for up to four players. Take one of the 10 card seed sets each, then draft the boosters and the fixed cards to fill out your decks. I've done this with previous toolkits in groups of casual players and each toolkit is good for a couple of evenings play at least. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have friends that are interested in attending prelease or launch events but don't know what to expect (or if you've never tried it yourself) this will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8146" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T18:08:31.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2014-07-28T20:44:51.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We would just set the trackers down on top of the character cards pointed at the proper numbers. This works for us, but there's still a good chance someone could knock the table or roll the dice onto your character tile and mess it all up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the best advice on this page is the paper clips. Second, would be biting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8147" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T10:19:02.777" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T10:19:02.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18388" CreationDate="2014-07-28T20:54:17.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally, the way I would respond to this question depends on what type of event I'm playing in (if any) and who I'm playing against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd always interpret &quot;tapped out&quot; as referring to land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the kitchen table with friends, you might err on the side of providing ample information with a response such as &quot;Yes, all my lands are tapped and I can't produce any mana.&quot;  Of course, you shouldn't say anything that indicates you can't cast any spells because that would be misinformation.  You're also not obligated to provide any information that indicates you can cast any spells, if your opponent wants to call your bluff he or she should do so in-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a competitive event, your opponent may be asking this question because they can't tell whether or not your lands are tapped.  A truly sporting player probably isn't asking this question to trick you into revealing your hand, but rather to deduce what cards you may be representing by your board state.  In a competitive setting, &quot;yes&quot; is an ethical and honest response to the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8148" LastActivityDate="2014-07-28T20:54:17.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18408" CreationDate="2014-07-28T23:53:05.430" Score="6" ViewCount="2290" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a situation where in the infection stage, a city was drawn that was about to cause an outbreak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To stop this, we used an instant to move out quarantine specialist there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this within the rules, or cheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T16:57:23.103" Title="Can you play an instant (airlift) to move quarantine specialist prevent infection after the infection card has been drawn?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18409" CreationDate="2014-07-29T02:41:42.833" Score="9" ViewCount="2937" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only get three dwarves for a base, whose special ability is an extra victory token for mine tiles, and that this ability is retained when in decline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like a rip off! There are other races (like humans) who get an extra VP for farms, and they get almost twice as many from memory. The fact that you get to keep them when in decline doesn't especially help, as they're much easier to kill in decline. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a reason why dwarves are apparently treated as powerful? What strategy should one use to utilise them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T08:20:26.663" LastActivityDate="2017-01-08T13:45:56.270" Title="Why do dwarves only have a racial base of 3 tokens?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18406" CreationDate="2014-07-29T03:28:09.473" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is against the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must resolve each card fully before you can do anything else, so if you draw a card that causes an outbreak, you must first perform all of its steps. After you resolve that, you can play an Event, if you like. And, of course, you could play an instant before drawing and revealing the first Event card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Event cards can be played at &lt;em&gt;any time&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;except&lt;/em&gt; in between&#xA;  drawing and resolving a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also be interested in this similar question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/17997/in-pandemic-when-does-the-discard-over-7-cards-rule-take-effect&quot;&gt;In Pandemic, when does the discard-over-7-cards rule take effect?&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T16:57:23.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18407" CreationDate="2014-07-29T05:18:41.027" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because their power continues to work in decline, Dwarves are not intended to be played for very long. In most cases probably 2 turns with them is all you should be doing. Get 2 or 3 mine spots, and move on to your next race. This is why there are fewer Dwarves, because you aren't intended to use them for more than a couple turns or to conquer more than just a few spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T17:58:53.747" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T17:58:53.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18411" CreationDate="2014-07-29T07:38:53.080" Score="3" ViewCount="8311" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be quite basic. I am just a beginner and searched through the web and the rule book and couldn't find the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=pridemate&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ajani's Pridemate&lt;/a&gt; lets you,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you gain life, you may put a +1/+1 counter on Ajani's&#xA;  Pridemate. (For example, if an effect causes you to gain 3 life, you&#xA;  may put one +1/+1 counter on this creature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then does that counter(s) last across turns and accumulate making Ajani's Pridemate much stronger creature as the game progresses until it dies? Say, you have a staff that lets you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a black spell or a Swamp enters the battlefield under your control,&#xA;  you gain 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every turn you put down a Swamp you gain 1 life and hence Ajani's Pridemate gets another +1/+1 counter. It can even become like 2/2 + 1000*(+1/+1 counter) making it 1002/1002. Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T08:16:32.800" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:58:03.537" Title="Do +1/+1 counters accumulate?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2014-07-29T07:59:11.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it can. Every instance if lifegain grants another +1/+1 counter. So if you play 10 Swamps, you have 10 instances of lifegain, which grants 10 +1/+1 counters. If you have a creature with lifelink which deals damage, you gain life, so Ajani's Pridemate gets a +1/+1 counter. There is no limit to the amount of +1/+1 counters it can get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T08:16:52.110" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T08:16:52.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2014-07-29T16:13:01.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic things stay where they are unless instructed to move/remove them. This why effects that grant temporary effects are worded with &quot;until end of turn&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until the end of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(thanks ikegami for the rule #)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a specific rule dealing with your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;118.9. Some triggered abilities are written, &quot;Whenever [a player] gains life, . . . .&quot; Such abilities are treated as though they are written, &quot;Whenever a source causes [a player] to gain life, . . . .&quot; If a player gains 0 life, no life gain event has occurred, and these abilities won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: A player controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAjani%27s%5d%2b%5bPridemate%5d&quot;&gt;Ajani&amp;#39;s Pridemate&lt;/a&gt;, which reads &quot;Whenever you gain life, you may put a +1/+1 counter on Ajani's Pridemate,&quot; and two creatures with lifelink. The creatures with lifelink deal combat damage simultaneously. Ajani's Pridemate's ability triggers twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the card doesn't even have to continue to be affected by the counters in order for them to stay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRaging%20Ravine%5d&quot;&gt;Raging Ravine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any +1/+1 counters put on Raging Ravine remain on it even after it stops being a creature. They'll have no effect until it becomes a creature again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:58:03.537" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:58:03.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18410" CreationDate="2014-07-29T17:49:20.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. It keeps them because nothing in your scenario removes them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't mention any abilities removing counters, so the only possible thing that could be removing counters are the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only three instances when counters are removed from objects by the rules, and none of them are relevant to the current situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dealing damage to a Planeswalker removes loyalty counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs cancel out +1/+1 and -1/-1 counter pairs by removing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs remove extra counters when a permanent has a limit to how many of a given kind of counters it can have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it. Counters are never removed from objects except in those circumstances or by abilities that instruct you to move or remove them&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances, a counter are never removed from the object on which it is paced; it stays on the object until the object ceases to exist (at which point they cease to exist too).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.2. Counters on an object are not retained if that object moves from one zone to another. The counters are not “removed”; they simply cease to exist. See rule 400.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This includes three keyword abilities that remove counters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fading (fade counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspend (time counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanishing (time counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-07-29T17:55:19.343" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T17:55:19.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13046" CreationDate="2014-07-29T18:35:11.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Download this player aid file available here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/1493/ursuppe-fisch-abgeschmeckt-rulespdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/1493/ursuppe-fisch-abgeschmeckt-rulespdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final 2 pages have a list of all of the genes in the expansion plus their description/explanation.  This should give you all of the information that you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7984" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T18:35:11.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2014-07-29T20:48:34.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many people like Nandeck (google it).  Nearest comparable would be Magic Set Editor, already mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7725" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T20:48:34.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2363" CreationDate="2014-07-29T22:40:20.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agreed here, however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monsters combine their strengths for a combat score.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buffs and weaknesses apply to one monster at a time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can only interfere with up to one monster at a time, unless you have a card that says otherwise.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Example: You can only make one monster humongous. However, a thief's backstab ability applies to the sum of all combat strength.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must run away from each monster if you lose separately. Damage is taken from each monster, and &quot;bad stuff&quot; can happen to you multiple times.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5983" LastActivityDate="2014-07-29T22:40:20.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18418" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-30T03:31:12.470" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T03:31:12.470" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T03:31:12.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18419" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-30T03:31:12.470" Score="0" Body="A Pachisi-like board game where players have many ways do get ahead of others by playing cards." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T12:44:38.377" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T12:44:38.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18420" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-30T03:34:49.613" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T03:34:49.613" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T03:34:49.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18421" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-30T03:34:49.613" Score="0" Body="Card sleeves are (usually plastic) sleeves designed to fit and protect game cards." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T12:44:42.623" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T12:44:42.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6804" CreationDate="2014-07-30T06:38:31.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oye vey.  It is too restrictive to expect lots of points and a 6 card suit.  You want to use 2C for most hands with either 22+ high card points or 9 offensive tricks (generally 1 short of game).  Two suited hands might be best handled with other systems.  Generally 2C if you don't want partner to PASS.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Responses:  I can think of at least five different response agreements:  [1] just waiting, always 2D waiting, [2] waiting unless you have 7+ and a five card suit to bid or 10+ for NT response, [3] 2D game forcing, with A or K or for some QQ, 2H is not GF, 2S is spades, 2NT is five card heart suit and some points/stoppers [4] steps - 2D = 0-3, 2H=4-6, 2S=7-8, etc. and [5] control showing.  Controls refers to bids that show Aces and Kings only.  There are many answer sequence agreements, but many use 2D has a king or does not, 2H either has 2 Kings or just 1 Ace, 2S is exactly 1 Ace and 1 King, 2NT is exactly 3 Kings, 3C is 4+ control points.  Ace=2 and King=1.  I have played them all.  I find # 4 and 5 more useful for slam bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8159" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T06:38:31.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18460" CreationDate="2014-07-30T08:55:05.093" Score="6" ViewCount="1749" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to have an idea of my level in go (in kyu). This would for instance help me choose the most appropriate go books to read. I would like to do this through playing against a program—because I can play anywhere anytime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read on Wikipedia that each difference of one point in kyu is equivalent to one stone of handicap, and also that one stone is valued to 13–16 points in score difference. So, if I knew the level of the program I play against, this would allow me to quickly adjust the handicap (depending on the score difference) so that games are balanced, and then counting one kyu of difference for each stone of handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what is the level of computer/tablet programs? Is there a reference somewhere, or some resources that would give some information on that? In my case, I would love to have some idea of the current level of Little Go on iOS (which is based on Fuego), for 19x19 go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8143" LastEditorUserId="8143" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T04:29:20.000" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T20:39:44.170" Title="How can I quickly estimate my level in go by playing against a computer/tablet?" Tags="|go|ios|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18424" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T09:13:54.923" Score="0" ViewCount="2602" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to deck building, but I have noticed that sometimes players name their decks. What are the things to consider when I come to name decks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few things that I consider (specifically regarding MTG):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It should bear some resemblance to what the deck does. &lt;em&gt;Song of ice and fire&lt;/em&gt; would be relevant for a Red/Blue siren deck, but does not make sense for a ramping green deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some decks make reference to a card that the deck has been built around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do not want to give too much about your deck away (disagrees with point 1 and 2). A name like &lt;em&gt;Mill-ion cards in your graveyard&lt;/em&gt; really gives away that you will try and mill them, and may affect what they choose as an opening hand.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maybe a good middle-ground is if your opponent can see why you named your deck what you did &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you have played.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clever names are more interesting and everyone loves a good pun, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="8160" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T15:15:06.523" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:22:27.393" Title="What to consider when naming decks" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|metagame|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-07-30T18:18:09.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2014-07-30T12:08:41.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not need to give your deck a name. A name for a deck is just an easy way to describe the same set of ~60 cards (accounting for the fact that you won't need a different name for a deck that only changes two cards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A deckname is just used to communicate about that specific deck easier. If you want to name your monored Goblin-deck &quot;Green Guys&quot; (since goblins have green skin) and the people you talk with know what you're talking about, there's absolutely no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note about point 3 that there's no way for your opponent to know the name of the deck you play before you start playing, unless you tell him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8120" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T12:08:41.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18432" CreationDate="2014-07-30T13:46:29.913" Score="3" ViewCount="1163" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the opening game of a rubber, I dealt and opened two diamonds (weak) with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) J3 (h) 54 (d) KJ7532 (c) A42. Partner responded two hearts. I passed with my two weak hearts, fearing a &quot;misfit&quot; and we made five because partner had the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) 65 (h) AKQ32 (d) A84 (c) KQ5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, we lost the two spades and took the rest (the opposing hearts divided 3-3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even allowing for the favorable heart break, we felt that we could have bid higher. Partner said that if she had it to do over, she would have raised diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was there, in fact, a better bidding sequence? What should I have bid if we were playing &quot;Raise only non-forcing&quot; (RONF)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that partner and I hadn't discussed this matter before, I was afraid that partner might have bid 2 hearts with as little as  (s) 65 (h) AKQ32 (d) T84 (c) 765 (as some others in our bridge circle might). Is partner supposed to have an opening hand (or better) when she takes me out of 2 diamonds with 2 hearts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-07-30T18:13:00.880" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T23:36:49.420" Title="What is a proper bidding sequence after a &quot;weak 2&quot; bid?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18424" CreationDate="2014-07-30T14:10:01.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I rather think that people name their deck to express what's inside, to easily tell the other what you are going to play. Typically (at least with the people I play) we use the color code (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11550/what-are-the-names-for-magics-different-colour-combinations&quot;&gt;see this question&lt;/a&gt;) added with the typical category of the deck (aggro, control, mid-range, combo... you can find an exhaustive list on various websites). This is the easiest way to explain what you have, for example if you say &quot;I'll use my Selesnya aggro&quot;, people will pretty much what kind of cards are inside (in that case, white/green full of creatures and tokens, likely with low cmc to kill quickly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On competitive (and less competitive) games, the format is also added to the name (t2, modern, legacy, EDH, poper...) for people to know which range of editions you are using. Some classical decks are quite different depending on this (t2 Jund or modern Jund for example) because some particularly efficient and famous cards are available or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the deck use a particularly famous combo or game-mechanic it can lead to a very specific name (Melira-pod, Dredge...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the Elder Dragon decks which are a special kind of decks (100 cards, a commander and other specific rules) are most of time named after their commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way of naming decks is also useful to get advices for deckbuilding, when discussing with other players, if you tell them such a 'regular' kind of name, they will know quickly what kind of gameplay is in your mind and will be able to give you more accurate advices on how to improve&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: As Brian S pointed out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are many famously named decks that don't really have much to do with the cards in the list. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I recommend to only use non-classical names when your deck is more or less built like these famous decks, for the sake of clarity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7815" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:22:27.393" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18429" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:06:27.423" Score="9" ViewCount="816" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNemesis%20of%20Mortals%5d&quot;&gt;Nemesis of Mortals&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nemesis of Mortals costs 1 less to cast for each creature card in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGenerator%20Servant%5d&quot;&gt;Generator Servant&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tap, Sacrifice Generator Servant: Add 2 to your mana pool. If that mana is spent on a creature spell, it gains haste until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have 3 creature cards in my graveyard and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGenerator%20Servant%5d&quot;&gt;Generator Servant&lt;/a&gt; on the field without summoning sickness. I wish to use the mana from the Generator Servant to summon the Nemesis of Mortals so that it will have haste. However when I sacrifice the Generator Servant I will have 4 creatures in the graveyard and Nemesis of Mortals no longer needs generic mana to summon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I determine the cost of the spell before or after I generate the mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T20:08:01.283" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:09:58.503" Title="Generator Servent with Nemesis of Mortals" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:16:08.443" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I determine the cost of the spell before or after I generate the mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either! You can generate mana at any time during your main step, before starting to cast a spell. However, you can also generate it during the spell-casting process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2e The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions. If the mana component of the total cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered to be {0}. It can't be reduced to less than {0}. Once the total cost is determined, any effects that directly affect the total cost are applied. Then the resulting total cost becomes &amp;quot;locked in.&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;If effects would change the total cost after this time, they have no effect.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2f If the total cost includes a mana payment, the player then has a chance to activate mana abilities (see rule 605, &amp;quot;Mana Abilities&amp;quot;). Mana abilities must be activated before costs are paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, you could determine the total cost (which would include 1 generic mana), then activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGenerator%20Servant%5d&quot;&gt;Generator Servant&lt;/a&gt; in order to produce mana, thus spending 1 of those 2 mana on the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNemesis%20of%20Mortals%5d&quot;&gt;Nemesis of Mortals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to show that Generator Servant's ability is indeed a mana ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;406.1. A mana ability is either (a) an activated ability without a target that could put mana into a player’s mana pool when it resolves or (b) a triggered ability without a target that triggers from a mana ability and could produce additional mana. A mana ability can generate other effects at the same time it produces mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T20:09:58.503" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18428" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:16:24.363" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can sac the Generator Servant at any time during your main phase, the mana it produces only leaves your mana pool if you either use it, or go to the next step in your turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between sacrificing the Generator Servant and casting the Nemesis of Mortals you can do all kind of fun things, like play a land or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Gendolkari has the better (and faster) answer :-(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8120" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T16:16:24.363" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18431" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:27:45.900" Score="4" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have a game die and I am trying to figure out which game it belongs to.&#xA;Has the numbers 1, 2,3, 2 and &quot; All HOP Over&quot; and &quot;Turn Log&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8165" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T16:34:12.577" Title="What game does this die belong to?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18426" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:29:39.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not at all sure what the prevailing agreement is by rubber players, but the Standard American Yellow Card is marked &quot;RONF&quot; (raise-only non-forcing), which I suggest you and your partner adopt. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/SP3%20(bk)%20single%20pages.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SAYC booklet&lt;/a&gt; has this to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;“RONF” on the card means “Raise Only Non-Force.” A new-suit response is &#xA;forcing one round and shows at least a five-card suit. Opener should raise a major &#xA;suit response with a three-card fit, or perhaps with a doubleton honor.&#xA;&#xA;With no fit for responder’s suit, opener rebids:&#xA; With a minimum weak two-bid (5–8 points), rebid the suit at the lowest level.&#xA; With a maximum weak two-bid, name a new suit or bid notrump.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for playing RONF is that it is very rare that you can profitably improve partner's preempt to a new suit when you hold a weak hand and a void in partner's suit (which is one situation in which many beginners try to bid 2H over 2D). On the other hand, it is not so uncommon to have the potential for a game across from partner's preempt with a hand that has its own suit (as your partner had here). What's more, the gain from finding those games is much higher than any loss that may be prevented by improving a partscore with a nonforcing bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, your hand is not weakish. Your suit is not so good but you have an outside ace. I would put in 2NT with your hand. Now you should discuss further bids with partner, but I would suggest that responder's next bid should be taken as a concentration trying to determine whether 3NT is the correct contract (unless opener rebids the suit), so I think a reasonable auction is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2D   2H&#xA;2NT  3C&#xA;3D   3H&#xA;4H   5D (1)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Partner may also consider passing given that you've shown a heart doubleton and denied a spade card; they can see two spade losers are likely but a club loser is not (would you have bid 2NT without a spade stopper &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; without the club ace?), but that a diamond loser is also possible. If hearts are 3-3 (36%), you'll (usually) take the same number of tricks in hearts and diamonds, meaning you can make 4H when 5D goes down. When hearts are 4-2 (48%), you'll likely make one fewer trick in hearts than diamonds (making 4H when 5D makes). It's only when hearts are 5-1 or worse (16%) that hearts is likely to be a a worse contract than diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T01:22:23.093" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T01:22:23.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18431" CreationDate="2014-07-30T16:34:12.577" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6598/frogger&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frogger&lt;/a&gt;, a board game based on the video game. A picture of the die from there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/od1ASt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frogger die&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Wughm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;frogger game&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Oi6eWm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I found this by searching on Google for [&quot;all hop over&quot; &quot;turn log&quot;] - the single result is of all things &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.com/patents/US4534566&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a patent for the game&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-07-30T16:34:12.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18434" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-07-31T00:22:31.550" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T00:22:31.550" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T00:22:31.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18435" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-07-31T00:22:31.550" Score="0" Body="An asymmetric 2 players game about the French and British conflict in North America where players build a deck of cards they will use to transport troops, settlers and many other kinds of military and non-military units to control, raid or siege villages and cities." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T11:55:50.723" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T11:55:50.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-31T03:04:08.917" Score="1" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the board game smash up some cards state that if someone destroys a card, that card will have negative effects on them. Therefore, why would I want to destroy the card? I don't know if I'm not getting something, and if I am not could someone please help? I just don't see a point to playing a card that does negative effects to the person who destroys it, because obviously no one will destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8171" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T04:41:34.490" Title="Why would I want negative effects?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18436" CreationDate="2014-07-31T04:41:34.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The point is just that. Players don't want their own cards destroyed, so playing a card that has a penalty to whoever destroys it makes it less likely to be destroyed. If card A provides some effect to its owner and card B provides the same effect but does something to whoever destroys it, clearly card B is more beneficial to it's owner as fewer players would want to destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these cards have some beneficial effect for the player (for example Gremlin from the Tricksters). Clearly, other players would want to destroy them, but if they do, they have to pay some kind of penalties. Some players may be willing to pay that if the net value (destroying the card - penalty paid) ends up being positive in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another case may be destroying cards for its effect. For example, Nukebot from the Robots destroys other minions in its base once destroyed. Placing it on the Fields of Honor (1 VP per minion destroyed to whoever destroys it) makes it really tempting for anyone trying to destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T04:41:34.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18438" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18442" CreationDate="2014-07-31T04:54:08.353" Score="2" ViewCount="20617" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say, I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383161&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;, which is an Instant, on my hand. It can counter any spells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponent has had a creature, for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383181&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ajani's Pridemate&lt;/a&gt;, on the battlefield for several turns attacking and blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use my Cancel onto Ajani's Pridemate and send it to the graveyard (or to its owner's hand)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T17:11:14.553" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T09:22:39.270" Title="Can Cancel counter a creature on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18438" CreationDate="2014-07-31T05:18:31.807" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. A &quot;spell&quot; is something that is in the process of being cast, while it is on the stack. A card in your hand, or on the battlefield, or anywhere but the stack, is not a &quot;spell&quot;, so Cancel cannot target it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T05:18:31.807" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18204" CreationDate="2014-07-31T06:38:25.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will argue with everyone here and suggest that there really is no difference between the fat pack and the toolkit. What you really need to look at is the cost per pack. Beyond that, consider what packs you are going to get. With the standard block still including the rtr block the toolkit has a limited chance of providing packs from this block that will cycle in October. On the other hand it will more than likely contain boosters from the theros block. &#xA;The fat pack will only contain boosters from the set it promotes, thus limiting the variation for the playable formats. Generally speaking a booster pack will have a retail cost of $3.79 to $3.99, the deck builders toolkit retails at $14.99 to $19.99, and the fat pack retails at $39.99. If you break the costs down to a per pack price, you will find that the difference is nominal. In either case, being a starting player or a seasoned veteran of the game, both of these options will have benefits for a player. The land included in either of these boxes is really not significant. By this I mean that unless you just want to look at the newest land art, which is often a reprint anyway, there is really no basis for influence on your purchasing decision. &#xA;At the end of the day, the real question is what set you like. What cards are you wanting to play? If you find that the m15 block has all the cards you need for your newest build, buy a fat pack. If you have no idea what sets are good and just want to get the feel of the standard format's mechanics, buy a toolkit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8172" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T06:38:25.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-31T08:48:25.343" Score="-3" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;how would You call the following game, a skill game or a game of luck? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;lets take a roulette wheel and change it where there is no green zero field. and instead of 18 black and red numbers we will have 18 red and 17 black numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now we will offer a player vs player game where any of the 2 players is free to chose the 17 black numbers (with disadvantage) or the 18 red numbers (with advantage). could this be a mental skill game? or is it still a game of luck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8173" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:04:24.483" Title="roulette (changed rules) skill or luck?" Tags="|luck|skill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-08-01T06:24:40.113" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18438" CreationDate="2014-07-31T09:00:43.943" Score="15" Body="&lt;h2&gt;A creature on the battlefield is no longer a spell.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(as Gendolkari says)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once your opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAjani%27s%5d%2b%5bPridemate%5d&quot;&gt;Ajani&amp;#39;s Pridemate&lt;/a&gt; makes it onto the battlefield, there is nothing Cancel can do to stop it's reign of attacking and blocking terror.  Here are the step by step actions that were taken, including the only time your Cancel can hope to stem the tide of destruction caused by Ajani's cat friend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent chooses to cast Ajani's Pridemate from their hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They place Ajani's Pridemate onto the table and says &amp;quot;I cast Ajani's Pridemate&amp;quot; to explicitly indicate that they are casting the spell, rather than accidentally dropping it onto the table. The spell is now &amp;quot;on the stack&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They pay any costs involved in casting the spell (mana cost, and any additional costs such as sacrificing a creature for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFling%5d&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent, having not explicitly stated they are retaining priority implicitly passes priority to you. The spell is in the process of being cast, but has not yet resolved. It is still a creature spell on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, if you do nothing, the creature spell will resolve, it will make it onto the battlefield, and your Cancel will not be able to do anything about it. This is your first and last chance to prevent the otherwise inevitable cat invasion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your opponent passes priority, with the spell on the stack, you gain priority, and have the opportunity to cast any and all instants, or cards with flash, or activate any abilities of creatures you control for which you can pay the costs. This includes your Cancel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority and with it the opportunity to cast Cancel targeting the Ajani's Pridemate spell on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do so, your Cancel goes on the stack above Ajani's Pridemate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You implicitly pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent has nothing else they can do, and so must state &amp;quot;Cancel resolves&amp;quot; or something equivalent, indicating that they too pass priority without doing anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The top card of the stack resolves, this is your Cancel. Cancel's effect happens, removing Ajani's Pridemate from the stack and sending it to the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything is fine, the world is once again safe from marauding cat men.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recognise the above is a long-winded and thorough answer to your question, and the majority of it is overkill for the interaction that you are asking about. However, it should give you some insight into the complexity of the game. We should be clear, there are games where every one of these steps is absolutely critical to the victory of a player, and doing things at the exact right time can make the difference between winning and losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;TL;DR&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time your Cancel can target the Ajani's Pridemate is the moment when they pay mana to cast it from their hand. At this point, before it officially enters the battlefield (even though it may be physically &amp;quot;on&amp;quot; the battlefield i.e. the table), you always have an opportunity to say &amp;quot;No, because I cast Cancel&amp;quot;. After that moment, it would be too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T09:22:39.270" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18443" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-07-31T13:41:17.410" Score="2" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have a ton of information, but maybe it's enough to help me out?  Played it a few times MANY years ago, was a lot of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a WW2 game played without a board.  I remember playing as the Russians, and my friend who owned the game played as the Germans.  I think it may have been possible to play as others, but not 100% sure.  It's quite old and out of print, early 80's or older... think Avalon Hill in their hay day (although I don't think it was made by Avalon Hill, but it's possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any clue what I'm talking about?  would love to try to pick up a copy of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8176" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T13:19:40.870" Title="Old WW2 game played with cards instead of a board" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18441" CreationDate="2014-07-31T14:04:24.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even though I am not 100 percent clear about the game you are proposing (especially what happens when both players choose the same colour) clearly this is no skill game. The optimal strategy is to always take red and beating this strategy can only be done with luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T14:04:24.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18449" CreationDate="2014-07-31T16:56:34.407" Score="1" ViewCount="5553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose a situation where you have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383338&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paragon of Gathering Mists&lt;/a&gt; and another creature, say X, with 3/3 on the battlefield. PGM is 2/2 and X becomes 4/4 because of PGM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I attack a player with both creatures, how is the order of fights decided?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If X fights first, it fights as 4/4. If PGM fights first and it dies, after that X fights as 3/3, since PGM is removed and its effect is removed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T17:18:24.357" Title="order of attack and blocking with a creature with modifying other creature's ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18443" CreationDate="2014-07-31T17:09:04.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/586/front&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Up Front&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Old 1980s Avalon Hill card game with Russians, Germans, and US in the base game and lots of expansions.  Recently funded for republishing on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1325766284/up-front-the-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastEditorUserId="1019" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T17:18:25.283" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T17:18:25.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18446" CreationDate="2014-07-31T17:10:22.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the combat damage is simultaneous, so the extra +1 damage from the PGM will apply to the other creature is a 4/4 when it deals its damage. If it were to have taken 3 damage, then after the PGM dies X reverts to a 3/3 with 3 marked damage, and so takes lethal damage and dies too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T17:10:22.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18446" CreationDate="2014-07-31T17:10:26.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combat damage is all dealt simultaneously. They'll each deal damage equal to their power (i.e. X will deal 4 damage), then if one or both of them die, well, they die, but the damage is already dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one exception is if the creature blocking Paragon of Gathering Mists has first strike (or double strike). Then it'll deal its damage first during the first strike combat damage step, Paragon of Gathering Mists will die, and X will immediately become a 3/3, so when deals its damage during the normal combat damage step, it'll only deal 3 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has nothing to do with order of attacking and blocking, but for what it's worth, the steps of combat are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of combat: a last chance to do stuff (cast spells or activate abilities) before the next step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers: you declare your attacking creatures, all at once. (Yes, in practice you say &quot;I attack with X and Y&quot; but that order doesn't matter, they both attack at the same time.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blockers: your opponent declares which of their creatures block which of your creatures, all at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage: attacking creatures deal damage to blocking creatures and/or the opponent, and blocking creatures deal damage to blocked creatures, all at once. (If any of the creatures have first strike, there's a first strike combat damage step exactly like this before the normal one.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of combat step: a last chance to do stuff before the second main phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, the steps go in that order, but within each step, nothing happens for one creature before another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do highly recommend reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;. It'll help you answer a lot of basic questions like this, and it's written to be easy to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: &quot;fight&quot; is a word with specific meaning, and has nothing to do with combat. When a card says &quot;X fights Y&quot; it means that X and Y deal damage equal to their power to each other, then and there, no combat, no attacking or blocking or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-07-31T17:18:24.357" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T17:18:24.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7507" CreationDate="2014-07-31T23:05:28.463" Score="-8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This controlled die rolling stuff is just nonsense... its simply a meaningless factoid that ego-inflated magic players use on each other to try and build themselves up before a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, spindown dice do not have evenly distributed numbers, but if you are telling me someone can casually pick one up and control their roll to be better than mine then you are delirious. To achieve this you'd have to pick up the die, find the high/low side, and then carefully roll/drop it to get the desired result. By this time you are looking at the guy like &quot;are you kidding me man... you are trying to cheat the roll!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People will relish the rare attempts they get to demand the 2d6 roll, and they will spout this reason every time with a proud smile on their face, now sure that they know all the ins and out of magic better than you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest you smirk to yourself at what a tool they are and roll whatever they want... then crush them in the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8179" LastActivityDate="2014-07-31T23:05:28.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18426" CreationDate="2014-08-01T14:45:26.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two sequences, one more &quot;standard&quot; than the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Standard American, a bid over a &quot;weak two&quot; is &quot;invitational&quot; to game, and requires 17+ high card points. That's because opener may have as little as 5-6. S/he's worth a game only with a maximum (9+) points. So two hearts was proper with the responder's 18 points, and knowing that, I might have re-bid three clubs to show the ace, and responder could have gotten us to game in either hearts or diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other sequence is known as a &quot;weak pull.&quot; That is, the responder &quot;pulls&quot; the bid to two hearts with AKQ432 (&lt;strong&gt;six&lt;/strong&gt; hearts and no side values) on the theory that her six  hearts are probably stronger than my six diamonds. (Plus, we get 60 instead of 40 if we make two of a major.) Alternatively, the responder could have had AKQ32 of hearts and either the ace of diamonds or king of clubs (basically an opening hand) for the weak pull. In either event, it's a &quot;second&quot; weak two bid that I must pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are two very different bidding systems, and the proper response would be the one that you have agreed with partner prior to the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Upon double-checking with partner, she prefers to use the &quot;weak pull&quot; (12-13 high card points and five cards is fine). Under the circumstances, I had no right to expect 18 from her and did well to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T18:18:49.593" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T18:18:49.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18455" CreationDate="2014-08-01T15:03:42.360" Score="3" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe I am just playing the game incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The perceived disadvantage is that you are the last player to then be able to expand and be the second player in a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8182" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T18:41:20.577" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T19:39:22.720" Title="Is there a real disadvantage for the player kicking off step two in power grid?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2014-08-01T16:57:54.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a significant disadvantage to kicking off Step 2, which is something a player will have to do deliberately by building their sixth/seventh/eighth city (depending on the number of players). As you point out, the other players will be &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more interested in saving their money to buy the (likely-cheaper) second spot in several cities instead of buying additional cities this turn (which probably have high connection costs at this point).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most games I've played, someone kicks off Step 2 for one of four reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They think that the extra income this turn, and having more cities sooner, is profitable enough. If you enter Step 2 with 8 cities, and everyone else has 7 or fewer, you might be able to stay ahead of your rivals in city-building. If you build to 9 or 10 cities, this is an even bigger advantage and you're more likely to be the person who builds the game-ending number of cities. And if you're the person who builds the game-ending city, you can &lt;em&gt;control&lt;/em&gt; when the game ends, and not build that city unless it's advantageous to you. (About half of the games I've played end with the winner not powering all of his cities, just having the &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; powered cities and building the game-ending city.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They've gotten bored with waiting. The games I play sometimes have a full turn (or even two or three!) of everyone sitting with one-less-than-the-Step-2-trigger number of cities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They desperately need to build a city somewhere, and avoid being hemmed in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They don't understand the full implications of going last when building cities, the turn that second slot opens up in each city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T18:45:02.237" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T18:45:02.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-01T18:22:47.893" Score="0" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is we like to play by picking characters at random, so maybe we should pick at random from the Dragon Expansion characters or pull them out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8182" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T19:42:19.267" Title="Do you find that with the Dragon Expansion characters more powerful?" Tags="|talisman|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18456" CreationDate="2014-08-01T18:51:42.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found the expansion as a whole to be amazingly out-of-balance with the rest of the game. The characters and events seemed only balanced with respect to themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion is to remove all the characters and event cards. One possible compromise that might be reasonable is to shuffle the events into the deck only once a player has passed into the middle region. Likewise you could allow a player who has died to choose their second character from the Dragon Expansion characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all presuming you are talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/714/talisman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Talisman 2nd Edition&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/1739/talisman-dragons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Talisman Dragons&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T18:51:42.350" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18453" CreationDate="2014-08-01T19:39:22.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by Marshall, when other players have enough elektro to reasonably expand once Step 2 hits, the cost to the activating player in terms of net city loss, expansion planning, increased connection costs, and risk of being boxed in is very high to the player who kicks it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a slight cost to them in terms of being forced to auction after worst card is cycled out, because the extra card you burn through opens up the futures market slightly more for your opponents. This is relatively minor compared with expansion though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7609" LastActivityDate="2014-08-01T19:39:22.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18480" CreationDate="2014-08-01T20:15:58.303" Score="1" ViewCount="4304" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with both season 1 and 2, and TCM, what is the best way to build the equipment deck so it is not unbalanced? It seems like the likelihood of drawing a three damage weapon is quite low with all the cards together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8183" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-01T23:35:34.680" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T21:40:59.240" Title="How can make a balanced equipment deck with seasons 1 and 2, and TCM?" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18423" CreationDate="2014-08-02T11:33:28.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when one has no hint about is level in go it's because he is just a beginner that is between 25 kyu and 15 kyu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The level of Fuego on iOS is probably something between 3 kyu and 1 dan. So if you win at 9 handicap on 19x19 it's already very good on. If you success, try to decrease the handicap one stone each time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For book reading really good books for beginners level are graded go problems for beginners &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.gogameguru.com/graded-go-problems-for-beginners-volume-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;volume 1&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.gogameguru.com/graded-go-problems-for-beginners-volume-2/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;volume 2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only can play against a computer and not on a server or in real (which are really better to learn), my advice would be to start at the lowest level at 9 handicap and decrease handicap every one or two win when you win 0 handicap increase the computer level and restart at 9 handicap. Be aware that only win/loss count. (especially against monte-carlo computer such as fuego which tend to reach a 0.5 point win).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better time spent for improve when can't playing against real opponent is to do life and death problems like the ones are found in graded go problems for beginners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good tip to know an approx level in doing problems is &lt;a href=&quot;http://goproblems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goproblems.com/&lt;/a&gt; (under the section go to problems) when you reach a plateau it's approx your level plus our minus 2 kyu. That should be enough to choose a book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The really point for knowing your level is to choose a fair handicap against a an opponent you don't play often. When you play often against the same opponent the best is to change handicap every one or two consecutive win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2138" LastEditorUserId="2138" LastEditDate="2015-02-13T20:39:44.170" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T20:39:44.170" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T14:01:40.310" Score="9" ViewCount="16766" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I pocket my last C/m and the Queen in a single strike, is this a win or a lose or do you put the pieces in the center again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8187" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T09:32:01.833" LastActivityDate="2020-06-15T18:47:54.980" Title="Can I pocket and cover the Queen in a single strike and win?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15504" CreationDate="2014-08-02T14:04:37.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you fail to cover the Queen so your turn ends and the Queen is replaced in the centre of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8187" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2018-05-21T15:58:12.203" LastActivityDate="2018-05-21T15:58:12.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18165" CreationDate="2014-08-02T18:18:09.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;checkers/draughts variant&lt;/a&gt; that you are playing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For American checkers / Britisch draughts (which are two names for the same game) and Italian checkers, &lt;strong&gt;kings are short-ranged&lt;/strong&gt; and cannot jump over empty squares.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For all other variants (International/Russian/Spanish/Czech/Frisian/Thai draughts and Pool checkers), &lt;strong&gt;kings are long-ranged&lt;/strong&gt; and can jump over empty squares as you indicated. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE&lt;/strong&gt;: in fact, for all but one (Thai draughts) of the long-ranged king variants, kings can also land on a sequence of adjacent empty squares behind a captured piece. In your notation, this would be patterns of the form &lt;code&gt;B- - -w- - -&lt;/code&gt;, where the black king can land on any of the three &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; squares behind the white man.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T18:18:09.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T20:57:11.570" Score="4" ViewCount="9113" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Satyr%20Grovedancer&quot;&gt;Satyr Grovedancer&lt;/a&gt; or something that has &amp;quot;When ~ enters the battlefield, put a +1/+1 counter on target creature&amp;quot; trigger Heroic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has the keyword target, but does it count as an ability or as part of the spell that targets? I guess this goes likewise for any ability that occurs when a card enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8189" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2014-08-02T22:13:04.030" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T03:45:14.787" Title="Do cards with abilities that target trigger heroic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-03-13T14:22:50.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:01:58.390" Score="5" ViewCount="2673" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner opened with 3 spades (pre-empt). I passed with (s) xx (h) KQx (d) KQxx (c) AJxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's because I was expecting something like the following (with or without the side jacks):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) KQxxxxx (h) Jxx (d) Jx (c) x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner's spade suit was actually AKQxxxx, with the other suits as listed above. So we missed a cold game in spades or possibly no trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said, &quot;You had eleven high card points. That, together with your distributional strength was an opening hand. Opposite my (better than) opening hand, that meant game.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She said, &quot;I bid three to show you may seven card suit.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said, &quot;That's not nearly as important as your high card strength. Your length will become clear when you rebid.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was I right to pass, in expectation of the weaker version of her hand, given that three spades is quite high? Should partner have bid one spade if she didn't want me to pass her out with my 15 points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T01:09:45.313" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T18:03:09.053" Title="Are there times when a hand with a seven card suit is too strong for a three level pre-empt?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18464" CreationDate="2014-08-02T21:52:54.880" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Heroic cards specifically state &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;whenever you cast a spell that targets [this card]&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Abilities are not spells. Here is the definition of a spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. As the first step of being cast (see rule 601, “Casting Spells”), the card becomes a spell and is moved to the top of the stack from the zone it was in, which is usually its owner’s hand. (See rule 405, “Stack.”) A spell remains on the stack as a spell until it resolves (see rule 608, “Resolving Spells and Abilities”), is countered (see rule 701.5), or otherwise leaves the stack. For more information, see section 6, “Spells, Abilities, and Effects.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1a A copy of a spell is also a spell, even if it has no card associated with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Satyr Grovedancer's ability goes into the stack when it enters the battlefield which  doesn't happen until after it was cast (and subsequently resolved). The effect is on the stack, but is not spell because it is not a card being cast (or a copy of a spell).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants and sorceries that say &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; will trigger heroic. Enchantment auras will as well even though they do not say &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; because of rule regarding auras:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;113.1b Aura spells are always targeted. These are&#xA;the only permanent spells with targets. An Aura’s&#xA;target is specified by its enchant keyword ability (see rule 702.5, “Enchant”). The target(s) are&#xA;chosen as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. An Aura permanent doesn’t target anything; only the&#xA;spell is targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else will be an ability and thus do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T03:45:14.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2014-08-02T22:26:32.677" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An opening bid of 3 spades shows a somewhat weak hand with 7 spades. A hand like AKJxxxx Ax xx Qx would certainly never open 3S. Partner's hand in first or second seat is worth a 1S opening in my book; it's certainly better than any balanced 12-count. In third seat I might open 3S, since game is unlikely (partner is a passed hand) and LHO might have a good hand and guess wrong about how to proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I would have risked a game bid with your hand, at least at some forms of scoring (eg vulnerable at IMPs). Game is a good bet if partner shows up with the hand you expected. You'll expect a loser in hearts and diamonds, with some chances of shaking a club loser or two on the red suits. You'll run into a bad time if partner had a spade suit headed by the KJ and nothing outside, so when your side has favorable vulnerability, the raise to game may be ill-advised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-08-02T22:26:32.677" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2014-08-03T02:03:05.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes we just have a &quot;Call Time&quot;.  When that time is reached the game will complete that turn we are on and the player with the most VPs wins.  Not the best system perhaps, but it works for us.  Sometimes we finish before the call time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have discussed the possibility of using a game timer (similar to chess timers - ours is a cube that can time up to six players). A system that rewards the faster players and penalizes the slower ones with VPs.  The timers are only active during the times where players would &quot;Think&quot; - not during dice rolling battles.  We have only talked about this. not yet tried. Obviously not a good idea for those who are rookies to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also usually use the preset board designs. Positions and races are assigned randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8190" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T02:03:05.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18482" CreationDate="2014-08-03T10:11:02.693" Score="5" ViewCount="582" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the table there are 2 items giving bonus of 4 and 5,  the one with 4 is used and the one with 5 is carried and not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Lose the card that gives you the biggest bonus&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;, does it destroy the 5 or 4 bonus card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8194" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T22:35:14.570" Title="Munchkins Ruling of destroy item with highest bonus" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18478" CreationDate="2014-08-03T10:21:16.943" Score="5" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the pegasus expansion, these points happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cylon players win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cylon leader reveals his agenda&#xA;and he completed it successfully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did both cylons and cylon leader win the game OR did the cylons lose the game and only the leader wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8195" LastEditorUserId="8195" LastEditDate="2014-08-03T11:50:01.997" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T19:26:06.210" Title="In Battlestar Galatica Pegasus expansion, does the cylon team win if the cylon leader wins?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18476" CreationDate="2014-08-03T15:20:43.303" Score="4" ViewCount="6889" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent was to cast bestow onto a creature, and i then remove the creature, does the bestow get countered and go to the graveyard, or does it become a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8196" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:40:03.827" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T19:56:18.347" Title="Remove bestow target, does it become a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18471" CreationDate="2014-08-03T16:05:46.250" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer is yes, the spell goes to the graveyard if there is no creature for it to bestow. This means you need an instant removal spell like doomblade, lightning strike etc... and must cast IN RESPONSE to the bestow being cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8197" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T16:05:46.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18471" CreationDate="2014-08-03T16:20:48.813" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when an aura card is being cast targeting a creature, it would become countered and put in the graveyard when the creature isn't there anymore. However, bestow auras are an exception because they will just enter the battlefield as a creature in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T16:20:48.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18477" CreationDate="2014-08-03T17:01:35.527" Score="1" ViewCount="2732" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18085/can-you-sacrifice-a-creature-thats-in-the-middle-of-an-attack&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12107/can-i-pump-my-blocker-after-the-attacker-has-chosen-their-order-before-damage-a&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, it seems like I can activate abilities after blockers are declared (and before damage is assigned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I'm attacking with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scourge of Skola Vale&lt;/a&gt;, can I untap it (say with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kiora's Follower&lt;/a&gt;) then tap it and sacrifice a creature to pump it with +1/+1 counters, thus doing extra damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this also work if I'd given it vigilance before declaring the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T18:21:56.440" Title="Can you untap an attacking creature to use its ability at the end of declare blockers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18474" CreationDate="2014-08-03T17:27:28.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combat phase consists of five steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;beginning of combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;declare attackers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;declare blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combat damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;end of combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each of these steps players get priority and can cast instants or activate abilities. In the declare blockers step the first thing you do is declaring the blockers. It is after this that each player gets priority and can do stuff. And this is before the combat damage step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T17:27:28.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18471" CreationDate="2014-08-03T18:06:28.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It becomes a creature, because the rules make a special exception for bestow. Even though you've cast your creature with bestow as an aura spell, when it resolves, it can end up as an aura &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; a creature. From the bestow section of &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120034702/http://archive.wizards.com/magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/therosmechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Mechanics of Theros&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the target creature leaves the battlefield after you cast a card with bestow as an Aura but before the spell resolves, the Aura spell will resolve as an enchantment creature rather than being countered like a normal Aura spell. If the target creature is still on the battlefield when the Aura spell resolves, it resolves as an Aura enchanting that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the specific rules for this case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.102a ... These effects [turning it into an Aura spell] last until one of two things happens: this spell has an illegal target as it&#xA;resolves or the permanent this spell becomes, becomes unattached. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.102d As an Aura spell with bestow begins resolving, if its target is illegal, the effect making it an Aura spell ends. It continues resolving as a creature spell and will be put onto the battlefield under the control of the spell’s controller. This is an exception to rule 608.3a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Rule 608.3a is the rule about how aura spells normally resolve, which would cause a normal aura spell to go to your graveyard at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-04T19:56:18.347" LastActivityDate="2022-06-04T19:56:18.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18474" CreationDate="2014-08-03T18:21:56.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Untapping it does not remove it from combat&lt;sup&gt;[CR 506.4, CR 506.4b]&lt;/sup&gt;. Neither does tapping it to pay a cost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You get the chance to use abilities at the end of the Declare Blockers Step&lt;sup&gt;[CR 509.5]&lt;/sup&gt;. The game will only advance to the next step once all of these has resolved and noone want to activate any others&lt;sup&gt;[CR 116.4]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Damage is only calculated in a later step (the Combat Damage Step)&lt;sup&gt;[CR 510.2]&lt;/sup&gt;, so the +1/+1 counters added in the Declare Blockers Step will affect the damage dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T18:21:56.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18470" CreationDate="2014-08-03T19:26:06.210" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Cylons &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the Cylon leader win the game, together. The Agenda Card condition indicates which side they favor. They will have another condition which seems counter to their allegiance, but they are predominantly on one side or the other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 10 of the Pegasus rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that Cylon Leaders may win with the humans or the Cylons, as&#xA;  specified by their Agenda Card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T19:26:06.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="75" CreationDate="2014-08-03T21:01:47.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I was playing it many times with two players only, I wanted to remove as much luck as possible. The tools hut may help, but it hardly does in the first few turns, which might be the most important ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could eliminate most of randomness using this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For resource production use one die only. For each two workers simply count 7 pips without rolling. So for five workers, you get 2*7 pips plus one roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really love this alternative, but it makes the game take longer, since there's a lot of planning involved. But the planning is fun (if you're like me) and using the dice much more rarely saves some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also made two other modifications &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/654487/two-player-more-deterministic-and-house-requiring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;described on BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7574" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T03:25:56.080" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T03:25:56.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18459" CreationDate="2014-08-03T21:40:59.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;It seems like the likelihood of drawing a three damage weapon is quite low with all the cards together.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S1 alone is the worst. S1+S2 is about the same as just S2. Adding TCM greatly improves the odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S1: 2/52 = 3.8% (2 sets of Molotov ingredients)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S2: 3/71 = 4.2% (2 sets of Molotov ingredients, Concrete Saw)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S1+S2: 5/123 = 4.1%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S1+TCM* = 5:/69 = 7.2% (2 sets of .44 Magnum + Hollow-Point Rounds, Flamethrower)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S2+TCM* = 6/88 = 6.9%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S1+S2+TCM* = 8/140 = 5.7%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TCM* = TCM excluding Ultrareds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A better way to look at the question would be if the decks are already combined how should they be broken down?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S1 - 62 equipment cards&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;52-card deck:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Aaahh!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Bag of Rice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Baseball Bat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Canned Food&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Chainsaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Crowbar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Fire Axe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Flashlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Gasoline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Glass Bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Goalie Mask&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Katana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Machete&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Pistol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Plenty of Ammo (bullets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Plenty of Ammo (shells)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Rifle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Scope&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Sawed Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Shotgun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Sub MG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set aside:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Crowbar&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Evil Twins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Fire Axe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Ma's Shotgun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Molotov&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Pan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Pistol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TCM - 23 equipment cards (itemized in the rulebook)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;17 cards to add to deck:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x .44 Magnum&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Assault Rifle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Cookies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Gas Mask&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Flamethrower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Hollow-Point Rounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Laser Pointer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Spare Change&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 Ultrared cards to add to deck:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x 911 Special&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Betty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Doug's Dream&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Jack &amp;amp; Jill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Ned's Atomic Flashlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Sweet Sisters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set aside:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Pa's Gun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Pan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S2:PO - 83 equipment cards (itemized in the rulebook)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;71-card deck:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Automatic Shotgun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Aaahh!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Bag of Rice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Baseball Bat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Canned Food&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Chainsaw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Claw Hammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Concrete Saw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Fire Axe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Flashlight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Gasoline&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Glass Bottles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Hatchet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Katana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Kukri&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Meat Cleaver&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Nails&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5x Pistol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Plenty of Ammo (bullets)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Plenty of Ammo (shells)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Rifle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Riot Shield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x Sawed Off&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Scope&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Shotgun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Sub MG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Wakizachi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set aside:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Gunblade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Nailbat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x Nightstick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x Molotov&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Claw Hammer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Fire Axe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x Pistol&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T21:40:59.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2014-08-03T21:50:59.713" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your partner's hand looks borderline to me: it certainly could be opened 1S, but to what end? You certainly will not be able to support spades, and equally certainly her hand is valueless in any other suit. All a one opening does is allow the opposition to bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is much clearer is that your hand is worth 3NT. All the other suits are stopped (with the opening lead where it is, quite possibly double-stopped), and you have two spades to get back to dummy. On a 2-2 split, the game is a no-brainer; in any event there will be some play for it. On the hand you were expecting, one Jack or other will surely be the extra entry you need, but in any event, your partner must have &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; outside spades. Even if she has AKQxxxx and literally nothing else, the game is solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T21:50:59.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18469" CreationDate="2014-08-03T22:35:14.570" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Items that aren't in use don't give you any bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-03T22:35:14.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-03T23:12:03.597" Score="0" ViewCount="2907" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dovetailing off this question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11124/can-i-sacrifice-a-creature-that-is-only-temporarily-under-my-control&quot;&gt;Can I sacrifice a creature that is only temporarily under my control?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...where the answer is, yes, you definitely can.  'Who' discards it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically looking at including &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383436&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Waste Not&lt;/a&gt; in a sacrifice-themed deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if I sacrifice another player's creature, does it trigger 'Whenever an opponent discards a creature card...'?  Or would I be discarding it into their graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8201" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T10:00:34.710" Title="In MTG, when sacrificing another player's creature, who performs the discard into the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18483" CreationDate="2014-08-03T23:30:31.833" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nobody discards it. It gets sacrificed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrificing doesn't involve discarding. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/701-keyword-actions.html#rule-701-7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Discarding&lt;/a&gt; specifically refers to an instruction to move a card &lt;strong&gt;from your hand to your own graveyard:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.7a&lt;/strong&gt; To discard a card, move it from its owner's hand to that player's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/701-keyword-actions.html#rule-701-14&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sacrificing&lt;/a&gt; on the other hand is an instruction to move a card from the &lt;strong&gt;battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; to the owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.14a&lt;/strong&gt; To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the sacrificed creature doesn't go straight from someone's hand to their own graveyard, it doesn't count as discarding. The sacrificed creature also &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/700-general.html#rule-700-4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;dies&lt;/a&gt;, which is the term for the event where a creature moves from the battlefield to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waste Not's triggers don't care about sacrificing. You need cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Rot&quot;&gt;Mind Rot&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashiok%27s%20Adept&quot;&gt;Ashiok&amp;#39;s Adept&lt;/a&gt;, which actually say 'discard'. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tormented%20Thoughts&quot;&gt;Tormented Thoughts&lt;/a&gt; could be relevant to you - not &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; of the sacrifice, but because the sacrifice leads to your opponent doing some discarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record though: when a creature's sacrificed, it's whoever's controlling the creature that does the sacrificing, regardless of who actually owns that card/creature. Regardless of who actually does the sacrificing, it lands back in the original owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-04T10:00:34.710" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T10:00:34.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2014-08-04T08:41:39.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just looking on the net and came across this on a 3D printing site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.shapeways.com/model/1577319/replacement-clips-betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.shapeways.com/model/1577319/replacement-clips-betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not used these, nor was there any comments on them, but I am considering getting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they do what they should do, they would fix the issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8203" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T08:41:39.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18504" CreationDate="2014-08-04T12:54:50.797" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;How are players keeping track of which doors a player has uncovered? Once you have discovered a door you do not need to roll again to find it. It seems like a lot to memorize or are we playing this game wrong?  Do all four get the knowledge of the door once uncovered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8182" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T01:18:39.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T13:08:55.887" Title="How should we be keeping track of secret doors?" Tags="|dungeon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18367" CreationDate="2014-08-04T13:21:36.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's very specifically a Movement Step that needs to be spent, not an action. From the rulebook (pg. 8):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike other cards in a room, Lock cards are revealed when an investigator attempts to move into the room. Before a player physically moves his investigator figure into the room, the keeper turns the Lock card faceup and reads it aloud to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the player is unable to discard the proper card or solve the puzzle, then he cannot enter the room this turn (and wasted this Movement Step). When a moving investigator encounters an ability saying “this door is locked,” his figure remains in its current room and cannot move for this Movement Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the section, it makes this very specific (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lock cards are always resolved when an investigator attempts to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;enter&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the room...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most situations, the Lock cards say &quot;This door is locked&quot; so you can't reattempt entering the room in the same turn. I guess you can move away from the door if you still have a Movement Step or Run Action remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T13:21:36.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18366" CreationDate="2014-08-04T13:34:23.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thematically, I think it would make sense. However page 13 of the rulebook says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Investigators and humanoid (blue) monsters may move between spaces containing ladder markers as if they were adjacent. The spaces are considered adjacent for movement purposes only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...which seems to suggest that doesn't apply to fire. As I commented on your question, I'd need to see the specific wording of the Pyromaniac card. Whilst I'd probably house rule it with my group to allow it, I suspect that you cannot if you're sticking strictly to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T13:34:23.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18492" CreationDate="2014-08-04T19:59:27.980" Score="1" ViewCount="10065" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic, there are creature cards with huge mana costs (like 15 for Emrakul, the Aeons Torn), that can hardly ever be paid in a normal game of Magic. Luckily, there are many ways to &quot;cheat&quot; creatures into play. There also cards that can put lands, enchantments or artifacts from the hand onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorceries are also sometimes extremely expensive. Is there any card in Magic that allows one to play a Sorcery or Instant without paying its mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T04:18:46.203" Title="Can I play a Sorcery or Instant without paying its mana cost, in any way?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18490" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:45:40.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellshift&quot;&gt;Spellshift&lt;/a&gt; allows you to play an instant or sorcery without paying its mana cost. Here are others others that have a similar effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Epic%20Experiment&quot;&gt;Epic Experiment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Panoptic%20Mirror&quot;&gt;Panoptic Mirror&lt;/a&gt; (my personal favorite)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than continuing to list all of the cards, I'll teach you how to do it yourself. Find the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Advanced.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced Search options on the Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;. Try searching for cards whose rules text contains a phrase like &amp;quot;without paying its mana cost&amp;quot; AND &amp;quot;instant&amp;quot;. You'll quickly find a whole slew of cards that fit your criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-08-04T21:45:40.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18490" CreationDate="2014-08-04T21:54:52.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of such cards. Recently, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omniscience&quot;&gt;Omniscience&lt;/a&gt; gave you permission to cast &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; spell (instant, sorcery, creature, whatever) from your hand without paying its cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are even entire mechanics based on it, such as Cascade, or the cycle of Hideaway lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Epic%20Experiment&quot;&gt;Epic Experiment&lt;/a&gt; is the instant/sorcery version of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genesis%20Wave&quot;&gt;Genesis Wave&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mind's Desire&lt;/a&gt; is its predecessor. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Predicaments&quot;&gt;Master of Predicaments&lt;/a&gt; was just released, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oracle%20of%20Bones&quot;&gt;Oracle of Bones&lt;/a&gt; is recent. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunforger&quot;&gt;Sunforger&lt;/a&gt; is older, but one of the most powerful equipment for a R/W deck: not only is the instant you cast free, but you search your deck for it, rather than needing it in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heck, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25887&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Planeswalker's Mischief&lt;/a&gt; lets you cast an instant or sorcery spell for free from your &lt;em&gt;opponent's&lt;/em&gt; hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when you're casting a spell without paying its mana cost, {X} can only be 0, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; still pay any required additional costs, and if you want the effect of something that comes from paying an optional cost (eg, Kicker), you'll need to pay the optional cost. Effects which look at the mana you paid for the spell (such as the hybrid mana spells which care about the colors spent) will see that no mana was spent at all, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trinisphere&quot;&gt;Trinisphere&lt;/a&gt; will still force you to pay {3}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T04:18:46.203" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T04:18:46.203" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18541" CreationDate="2014-08-05T01:42:57.360" Score="5" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diplomacy_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/a&gt; you submit written orders for your units each turn on a slip of paper.  Once everyone has submitted orders, all orders are revealed.  The culture of Diplomacy allows various sorts of shenanigans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;What happens if you submit an order slip for another player's units?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say you're playing Turkey and someone else is playing Germany.  You submit two pieces of paper: one for Turkey and one for Germany.  The German player submits orders for only Germany.  When the orders are revealed, everyone can see that two different sets of orders were submitted for one country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when Allan Calhamer (the inventor of Diplomacy) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.diplom.org/~diparch/resources/calhamer/dozen.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;was playing the game&lt;/a&gt;, a move called a &quot;Flying Dutchman&quot; was sometimes used.  In this move, Turkey would include among its orders an order to move a German unit.  If no one noticed (or no one objected), the order would be executed as written.  According to him, it was never really outlawed in the game, it just got rarer over time.  What I'm asking about is only a small escalation above a Flying Dutchman, I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T17:50:56.183" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T03:11:27.727" Title="What happens if you submit orders for another player?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14438" CreationDate="2014-08-05T03:55:31.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crabs Adjust Humidity is a 3rd party expansion pack, they offer packs of just blank cards which are almost identical to the original cards if you don't have enough blank cards in the expansions to write your own cards on. I have ordered about 8 of these now and just keep on expanding my own deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8212" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T03:55:31.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16817" CreationDate="2014-08-05T05:52:50.217" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;NanDeck will do this: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nand.it/nandeck/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.nand.it/nandeck/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets you script out card sets, fairly simple to change card sizes, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The website Oil And Rope has a very slick prototyping tool called Paperize: &lt;a href=&quot;http://paperize.io/beta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://paperize.io/beta&lt;/a&gt; which lets you upload graphics, use spreadsheet linking, etc. - super cool. Still in beta, but tons of folks love it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8213" LastEditorUserId="8213" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T16:43:48.093" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T16:43:48.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="954" CreationDate="2014-08-05T06:34:18.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out question 2:10 at The 18xx Rule Differences List: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fwtwr.com/18xx/rules_difference_list/single_list.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fwtwr.com/18xx/rules_difference_list/single_list.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my own stalled attempts at 18xx design, possible other implications: in full-capitalization games, a player who funds a company can then use that company's profits to keep a chain of companies going. Partial-capitalization games affect the available capital to work with but also encourage further buying weirdness. Also, in my early playtests, companies ended up snapping up all the available stock on the market, leaving nothing for players to buy (which resulted in even more convoluted acquisition rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That list is super-helpful in opening your eyes to variants you've never thought about, along many axes of rule choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8213" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T06:34:18.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18498" CreationDate="2014-08-05T08:57:35.957" Score="3" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently purchased a copy of the original &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24037/escape-atlantis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Escape From Atlantis&lt;/a&gt; as it was a game I used to love as a child. Playing it last night, however, we came across a couple of situations that the rules didn't seem to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has an Atlantian on the same tile as a dolphin, and is using that dolphin for travel, can I 1) move a swimmer on to that tile and &quot;steal&quot; the dolphin away from them on a later turn, or 2) when rolling a dolphin move, cause their dolphin to &quot;abandon&quot; them and swim away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're unsure as to whether that dolphin effectively becomes &quot;theirs&quot; or not, where only a shark or a sea monster can get that person, or if stealing a dolphin is fair game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8144" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T09:21:51.587" Title="Can I move someone else's dolphin?" Tags="|escape-from-atlantis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18497" CreationDate="2014-08-05T09:21:51.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dolphins don't belong to anyone. In my version of the rules (UK), the only thing a Dolphin does is let you pay 3 movement points (I.E your entire turn) to move a swimmer and dolphin to the safety of a coral island, and leave the dolphin in front of the island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can move the dolphin with the swirler without having any effect on the swimmer(s) present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think different editions have different rules though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T09:21:51.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18500" CreationDate="2014-08-05T10:30:36.250" Score="2" ViewCount="2122" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are trying to workout a ruling for a multi player game of mtg involving 8 players and a 1 player with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exquisite%20Blood&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say there are eight players. Player &lt;strong&gt;#3&lt;/strong&gt; has Exquisite Blood. Player &lt;strong&gt;#5&lt;/strong&gt; hits player &lt;strong&gt;#8&lt;/strong&gt; for 100 damage. Player &lt;strong&gt;#8&lt;/strong&gt; dies and Exquisite Blood triggers (For 100).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion comes in for when Exquisite Blood resolves. As the opponent that lost 100 life not longer exists, will Exquisite Blood still resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8216" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T13:14:42.247" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T22:41:01.210" Title="Will Exquisite Blood trigger even if the life loss eliminates the player" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18499" CreationDate="2014-08-05T11:27:01.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Player #3 will gain 100 life.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that #8 is no longer in the game has no effect on Exquisite Blood's triggered ability. All of its effect was put on the stack when #8 lost 100 life. It does not require #8 to be in play when it resolves, because it does not check for any current information about that player. Even if it did, rule 800.4g would take effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If an effect requires information about a specific player, the effect uses the current information about that player if he or she is still in the game; otherwise, the effect uses the last known information about that player before he or she left the game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only effects that require a target are affected if that target is no longer legal or does not exist anymore; they would be countered in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T14:13:54.937" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T14:13:54.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2014-08-05T12:09:16.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that case I'd assume from the handwriting it would be pretty obvious which were the real Germany's orders. If you submit orders for another player, then your version won't be executed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T12:09:16.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18521" CreationDate="2014-08-05T12:23:23.350" Score="7" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are good ways to learn to &quot;read&quot; a sequence of moves mentally (i.e. visualize it in one's mind), in Go? Is practicing on a goban useful, or is trying to stick to mentally imagining the moves better? or a mix of both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I am asking this question because I feel that better reading skills can have a strong impact on the outcome of a game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PS&lt;/strong&gt;: I now realize that the question of reading sequences of moves mentally is only part of the story: in addition to &quot;pure&quot; reading, it is also extremely useful to learn to &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; read certain moves (because they have little potential, or because the outcome of some board situation reached while reading is known). In other words, learning how to &lt;em&gt;prune&lt;/em&gt; the move tree helps read faster: it is wasteful to read down many branches of the move tree when theory can prune these branches (the theory of killing shapes, of their vital point, of semeai,…) or give them a lower reading priority (useful moves tend to exploit weaknesses, or choke the opponent, or have multiple good effects, etc.). In essence, learning to read well involves both the raw skill of imagining a sequence in one's head &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the art of pruning moves or giving them a lower priority while reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8143" LastEditorUserId="8143" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T07:03:36.890" LastActivityDate="2021-01-16T21:40:31.810" Title="What are good ways to learn to &quot;read&quot; a sequence of moves mentally?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18487" CreationDate="2014-08-05T13:08:55.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you are playing the new WotC version, the rules state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You might wish to keep track of the doors you found on a piece of&#xA;  scrap paper&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now all you need is some way to easily reference a specific door.  You could try to describe the area it is in, like &quot;Door to east-most level 4 room&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you're playing the older &quot;New Dungeon&quot;, it wouldn't really be a problem, because in that version you forgot about secret doors as soon as you moved away from them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T13:08:55.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18502" CreationDate="2014-08-05T17:23:20.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're actually playing, you aren't going to be able to put stones on the board, so you need to practice reading exclusively with visualization.  The best way is to do go problems.  It's important to do them the right way, though.  When you think you have found the solution, go through every response the opponent could play, and make sure you have an answer for it.  If you can't do this, then the problem you're using are probably too hard for your current reading level.  The first chapter of Tesuji by James Davies has a detailed example of how to do this correctly.  The more you practice, the better you'll get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T17:23:20.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18520" CreationDate="2014-08-05T19:32:30.497" Score="8" ViewCount="2336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strong chess players will often play a &quot;simul,&quot; walking from board to board and making a move on each, taking virtually no time to select their moves, and forcing themselves to keep track of many games at once,  while giving their opponents plenty of time while the strong player is moving on other boards. Strong players will also sometimes play &quot;blindfold&quot; games in which they are told where their opponent has moved but cannot look at a board to see where all the pieces are should they forget. Blindfold simuls are not unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do analogous exhibitions ever happen in Go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7031" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T17:04:40.393" Title="Do strong Go players play simuls, like in chess? Do they ever play blindfolded?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18506" CreationDate="2014-08-05T19:59:08.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Professional Go players will often play simultaneous games with amateurs at events. I know a 6-dan amateur who enjoyed bragging that he once beat a 6-p in an even game--but then he would qualify that the pro had been playing between 9 and 12 other games at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't really heard of blind go. I think the much bigger board would make this very difficult as compared to chess. However, a variant that's similar in spirit is &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?OneColourGo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one-color Go&lt;/a&gt;, where both players will use the same stones and must remember whose stones are whose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensei's Library&lt;/a&gt; has a list of other common variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: I've linked to Sensei's library, but it seems the site is currently down for maintenance, expected to be back up tomorrow.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-08-05T21:58:39.517" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T21:58:39.517" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2014-08-05T20:53:09.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Compare this to deck building games like Puzzle Strike or Dominion where the focus is on deck quality rather than size. Adding a new card doesn't help much if it dilutes your deck from its primary strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These games still have in game costs for adding the cards to your deck and playing them on your turn. Those costs are used to balance the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2743" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T20:53:09.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2014-08-05T21:00:43.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another deck building game to consider is Puzzle Strike. In many ways, it is a remake of dominion, but with a significantly different win mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than buying victory points, players send gems back and forth filling up their pile of gems. As their gem pile gets larger, players draw more cards, but when it hits its limit, they die and the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other complications, like the option to play different characters, offensive actions to attack people's decks, and team play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2743" LastActivityDate="2014-08-05T21:00:43.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18511" CreationDate="2014-08-05T23:55:07.350" Score="2" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Arctic Scavengers, should the players' discard pile face up or down? It seems that the rulebook does not specify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T00:20:36.777" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T00:23:13.177" Title="Discard pile should face up or down?" Tags="|arctic-scavengers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18510" CreationDate="2014-08-06T00:23:13.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The discard pile should go face down. The rules are not super-clear about this, but in the &quot;Sample Round&quot;, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player draws 1 card from the &#xA;  junkyard (dig of 1) and places that card face-down in her discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a discussion about this rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1201393/discard-pile-goes-face-down-right&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T00:23:13.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18506" CreationDate="2014-08-06T01:00:23.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it existed, the New York City Go club would sponsor simultaneous games for its players with travelling pros from Japan. When playing six or eight boards, the pros would typically give the amateurs one fewer stone of handicap than they would playing the same amateurs one on one. The pros would always play solidly and professionally, taking advantage of amateur mistakes, but they had less time to devise &quot;special tactics&quot; to beat an amateur that was doing well than they might have in a one-one situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, none of these games ever had the pro blindfolded. It's much harder to keep track of 361 points on the board than of 64 squares. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T01:00:23.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18502" CreationDate="2014-08-06T01:02:42.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing to do mentally is to count. That is, &quot;if I play this and my opponent plays that, how many liberties does each side have?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the more complicated plays, like long joseki sequences are best played out for full understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T01:02:42.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2014-08-06T01:18:25.100" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In third seat,&lt;/strong&gt; with (s) AKQxxxx (h) Jxx (d) Jx (c) x I'd pre-empt with &lt;strong&gt;four&lt;/strong&gt; spades. This bids a game that you might actually make, and avoids the &quot;no man's land&quot; of three spades. Opposite a &quot;passed&quot; partner, you don't worry about missing out on a possible slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have seven spade tricks in hand. At the same time, you have only one defensive trick, assuming that one of your opponents has a spade singleton. (Occasionally, they'll have more than one, but that will be balanced by the times when one of them is void.) If partner has nothing, your aggressive bidding may make it hard for them to find their small slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your (passed) partner has the three defensive tricks needed to defeat an opponent's four level contract, those tricks will bring you to game. If partner has less, the opponents have a game in hearts, if that's their suit, and may have a five level game in a minor. Four spades makes it harder for them to bid that game than three spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given your two jacks, partner could help you fulfill your game contract with as little as KQTx of one of those two suits, a holding that might not stop an opposing game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first, second and fourth seats, I'd bid more &quot;conventionally with one spade. Given distribution points, the 11 hcp point hand is strong enough to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T13:40:38.680" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T13:40:38.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15332" CreationDate="2014-08-06T01:29:15.783" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can however tap a land at the beginning of your turn use the mana cast a spell then still untap it during your untapp phase. I think. I used to run a squerrel deck with a herd gnar it's a (2)g or (3)g I forget 2/2 creature that whenever a creature comes into play under your control herd gnar gets +2/+2 until end of turn. So I would use my lands at the beginning of my turn to cast instants to put out creature tokens then untap during my untap phase and cast more tokens.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8224" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T01:29:15.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9341" CreationDate="2014-08-06T01:40:25.187" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many responses included the answer 4 for any type of Pokemon unless further restricted. One year, many many moons ago, Sneasel, a dark Pokemon, was banned in any deck. The official Pokemon web site publishes the rules for deck building and playing, but an event may also have additional rules and restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course energy is one of the card types that is not restricted, unless it is a special energy. Just for fun I used to make a psychic deck with mostly psychic energy and just 4 pokemon! Because I get to shuffle untill I draw at least one basic pokemon in my opening hand the deck was annoying, but I always had plenty of energy to fuel my clever deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to be a good &quot;Pokemon Trainer&quot; when you play the card game you need to use the right balance of trainer cards in order to draw cards and get to your key evolutions, key basic pokemon, and trainer cards. If you go online you can find the four top decks in the senior division and the junior division of the world championships. You will notice a common ratio of Pokemon, trainers, and energy in these top decks. Try to imitate their ratios and even their decks, especially how and why they use certain trainers and you will be competitive in a local Pokemon league or against your friends. Notice which basics they use that do not evolve, and notice the weakness and resistance they have. Pokemon is a &quot;don't put all your eggs into one basket&quot; type of game, influenced by who gains control first with a key knockout, and by the ability to play an energy every turn or more. (Blastoise was so powerful because of his ability!) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8225" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-06T11:52:34.430" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T11:52:34.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17951" CreationDate="2014-08-06T09:30:58.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the checkers variant predominantly played in the US/UK, see the answer by @ColinD. The same rules applies to almost every other &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;checkers/draughts variant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russian draughts variant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, however, if a man passes the king-row during a capture sequence, it &lt;strong&gt;promotes and continues to jump as a king&lt;/strong&gt; until it is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T09:30:58.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6067" CreationDate="2014-08-06T11:52:04.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use this rule, a good example of when we didn't:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First 3 players roll and each end up with a light blue, player 4 lands on an owned light blue pays rent, first 3 players go again and a purple, train station and orange gone and player 4 lands on train station and pays rent, by the time all the players had got round the board players 1 to 3 owned most of the board and hadn't paid any rent to anyone, player 4 owned nothing and had a lot less money than the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So going round once first may not effect 2 (possibly 3 players) too much, but for 4 to 6 players it is a very good way of spacing people out and making sure you don't have a frustrated player(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8226" LastActivityDate="2014-08-06T11:52:04.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18506" CreationDate="2014-08-06T13:42:51.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Gregor explained, simultaneous games (sometimes abbreviated &quot;simuls&quot;) are quite common at Go tournaments or exhibitions at which pros (or very strong amateurs) are present (&lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/WAe1-mbCNC4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). The teacher is often booked specifically for lessons and simuls, with prices typically ranging (very roughly) in the lower 3 digits (this is often one of the main cash sources for strong players living in the West).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules specific to simuls are, as far as I know, very similar to chess: Pro walks from board to board, players have to move when (or possibly before) he arrives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blind Go in the sense of &quot;no board in use&quot; is virtually never practiced. It is tough in chess, and almost impossible in Go: Even the strongest players cannot precisely remember the large (19x19) board, a notable exception being &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BaoYun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Asian 6 dan amateur Bao Yun&lt;/a&gt;, who is said to compete almost as well in blind Go as with full vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variations of &quot;blind&quot;, though, for instance &quot;Go for the visually impaired&quot;, which has eyes closed, but players are allowed to touch the board and feel the stones (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nihonkiin.or.jp/kishihp/shigeno/2002/0208-e.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;special boards&lt;/a&gt; and stones are used for this purpose, black and white have a different surface). This is at times used in exhibitions (for instance I've seen it between a Japanese pro and a visually impaired Western amateur during the EGC 2011 in France, of which I sadly could not find the video), but very rare and not in conjunction with simuls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More well known, however, is one color Go, in which both players use only stones of one color to play; they have to remember which stone belongs to which player. This is incomparably easier than fully blind Go, most dan players should be able to do it at least on small boards. If you're used to it, it's not difficult even in full-length 19x19 (I, as a low dan amateur, often play this for fun). Still, in simultaneous games, even one color Go is practically unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T17:04:40.393" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T17:04:40.393" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18502" CreationDate="2014-08-06T14:10:50.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;TLDR: Putting stones on the board is not always possible. Reading is super important. Practice it with tsumego and apply it in games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're definitely right that it has a strong impact on the outcome. Reading is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; most fundamental skill in Go, and improving in that area is absolutely required to become a strong player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In serious games, it is usually not possible to put stones on the board &quot;just to see what happens&quot;. You'll have to imagine the results in your mind before you put down a stone. This is a fact that can't be changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as a beginner, you should try some stuff by yourself or in non-serious games (with knowledge of the other player, obviously) first. Then, it is absolutely fine to put the stones on the board to check what happens. You'll then quickly become aware of typical shapes (for instance a ladder), and be able to spot it immediately (if not, just keep trying!), without the need to put actual stones down. This is the first step on the road to strong reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In teaching games, you'll usually also lay down important sequences (during or after the game), in particular when they are not easy to see. Try to remember them so you'll notice them next time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, you will need to improve your reading abilities. Typically, players practice solving tsumego for this purpose, as they require reading skills of a particular level (yours in this case). First make sure you really solved the problem - do not miss a strong, difficult-to-see reply by your virtual opponent. Then, to check your solutions, it is fine to put down stones to make sure you did not miss anything. It is also beneficial to have reliable solutions at hand with which you can compare your own, for instance by using a tsumego book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, tsumego as well as simply practicing reading in real games will improve your abilities and you will be able to read faster, deeper and more precisely. In particular, as you memorize the involved shapes, you'll immediately know which moves are impossible without considering them. This will drastically speed up the selection process and cut down the variation tree to very few branches, each of which you have to explore as best as your visualization abilities allow you to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a beginner, it is actually often sufficient to always read only 2 or 3 moves ahead to avoid stupid mistakes. Once this does not help you anymore, try reading a few moves more, and you'll certainly do more than most lazy dan players :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This last tongue-in-cheek sentence is actually true - when they are not serious, advanced players often rely on shape exclusively without reading much, as they can already tell the results from the initial shapes (often, but not always correctly). This ability is beneficial in very fast games, but in serious games you still need to actually read (deeply) to find the best moves. Use memorized shapes only to reduce the tree width.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, aspiring pro players typically spend a few hours every day on tsumego. It is, after all, said that pros solved every tsumego in existence at least twice. If you enjoy it, feel free to do alike! If not (which applies to many people), well, just do it if you feel like it - Go should be fun! Tsumego are often more fun when hand-picked and given by a friend, possibly to many people at once, with a joint resolution session which typically includes a lot of &quot;Oh!&quot;s and &quot;Aaah!&quot;s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding &quot;visualization&quot; of moves. I did not go into that point yet. This is something I kind of wonder about myself, as I found it difficult to see clearly the moves very deeply, in particular when &quot;new&quot; stones touch stones from a while ago or are even played on top of them (this is called &quot;ishi no shita&quot; or &quot;under the stones&quot;). As far as I can tell, you cannot work on this specifically - it's simply a result of studying and will hopefully improve as one gets better at tsumego.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final, practical advice: Copy or print out tsumego from a good book on cards or cut little paper sheets. I liked &lt;a href=&quot;http://tsumego.tasuki.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; a lot, but definitely start with the easiest book, as the problems are often harder than they appear at first! Then put them in various places in your house as well as in your pocket. Every time you are forced to wait for a minute or more, pick one of them and try to solve it. Repeat until the wait is over. I often did that in waiting rooms (even though I have to admit that it sometimes made me rather sleepy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting tasuki on the above works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cho Chikun’s Encyclopedia of Life and Death is a wonderful progression which will take you from an absolute beginner to mid dan level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Next, we present you with the three most famous classical tsumego collections. Gokyo Shumyo deals mostly with patterns occuring often in real games. XuanXuan Qijing focuses on feeling and vital points, and the insanely difficult Igo Hatsuyo-ron is here just to make you cry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They come without solution due to copyright, but you can mostly check them with friends and/or stronger players. By the way, I can absolutely confirm his statements, in particular about Igohatsuyoron :'(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2018-12-16T00:15:29.353" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T00:15:29.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18530" CreationDate="2014-08-07T00:42:09.050" Score="6" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've introduced bridge to a small group of coworkers at a few jobs now, and I still don't really know the right way to do it. I'm hoping to get some feedback/suggestions on my approach, so I'll just describe it here; feel free to suggest improvements in whatever part(s) you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually just do minibridge for at least the first lesson, because the initial investment to figure out bidding is too high and un-fun, and I'm pretty set on that plan. But what hands do we play, what do I try to teach? In the past I've used shuffled hands, and that seems to go okay, but it's easy to get bogged down in higher-level stuff they're not really ready to get yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering pre-making a couple hands from the Bridge Master level 1 series, like &quot;You're in 6NT, and you need to knock out an ace before you cash your other eleven tricks&quot; or &quot;In 3NT, you need to overtake KQ with AJT9 to untangle your nine winners&quot; to introduce some basic concepts, and then random hands after that. But that makes things pretty boring for the defenders, and I don't know if those deals are too high-level or too low-level &lt;em&gt;anyway&lt;/em&gt;: maybe I just start with &quot;Cash your nine tricks in a 4333 mirror&quot;. I'm also considering a defense-oriented hand, where it's like &quot;Remember how we talked about knocking out aces? Declarer is trying to do that, and you can see from dummy that he will succeed unless your partner has HA, so try leading a heart.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I'm not sure of: if I do go with prepared lesson deals, do I explain the key point before the deal, or do I just let them play the hand, and then do a post-mortem where we talk about what happened, what could have happened instead, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first lesson, I usually describe the skills relevant to bidding/defending/declaring, and ask the students which branch they're interested in investigating more deeply for the next lesson. I'm fairly happy with that approach, but if you dislike it feel free to pipe up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My goal is to give a feel within the first couple hours for vaguely what playing bridge is about, so that interested folks can come back and others can get on with their lives; I definitely don't plan for students to survive at a duplicate club anytime soon, so I don't mind glossing over things like bidding, leads, or basic carding until students show interest in something related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1046" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:38:30.997" Title="Running an introductory bridge lesson" Tags="|bridge|teaching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15020" CreationDate="2014-08-07T10:41:13.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard way to create balance in Axis &amp;amp; Allies is to use &lt;strong&gt;secret bidding&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, bid an amount of money that Germany would get extra at the start of the first round of the game (the one bidding &lt;em&gt;lowest&lt;/em&gt; gets to play Germany).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, two players bid in secret.  Player A bids 20 and player B bids 25.  This means Player A gets to play the Axis and that Germany gets an additional 20 IPC the first round.  The rest of the game unfolds as normal and Germany does not get additional money in later rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside with this bidding is that nobody can complain that the game was not balanced any longer (if they thought differently they should have bid differently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5623" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2017-12-14T20:41:37.733" LastActivityDate="2017-12-14T20:41:37.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1035" CreationDate="2014-08-07T15:59:19.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Might be worth distinguishing between games where you deckbuilding BEFORE the game start and games where you deckbuilding DURING game play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first category there are all the LCG games from Fantasy Flight Games and all his clones (that cannot use LCG word due to copyright). If you like to deckbuilding by yourself and than go to the club to kick some asses this is the game for you. And you have not to worried about your completist nature because you can buy easily all the cards without drain your bank account. From my point of view this is the &quot;new&quot; Magic way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dominion (and all the others that came later) put the deckbuilding directly into to the game play. So you open the box, everybody start the same and we will see who does better with what we have. From my point of view this come from the Magic Limited format (what I loved most).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7558" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T15:59:19.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18527" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-07T21:59:28.510" Score="5" ViewCount="1869" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a die. The faces depict Fire, a Sheep, a Lock, a Footprint, an &quot;L&quot;, and a Magnet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What game is it from?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8240" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T21:49:31.643" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T07:34:13.533" Title="What game is this die from?" Tags="|identify-this-game|dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6701" CreationDate="2014-08-07T22:14:30.747" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer is thirty two. Each player is dealt two sevens and two sixes. Any jack is turned over. First card played is a seven. You can figure it out from there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8241" LastActivityDate="2014-08-07T22:14:30.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18527" CreationDate="2014-08-07T22:37:18.513" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could it be one of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.storycubes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rory's Story Cubes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XKfI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Story Cube&quot; /&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UJ5WY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Story Cube Box&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After looking closely at those photos, I'm going to say definitively, why yes. Yes it could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the top photo, the front right die has an [L] and a fire facing the camera.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the bottom photo, the die in the top right of the box art depicts a single die with a magnet, sheep, and footprint on three sides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SQB points out in comments these are in fact the same die, with a lock on the side these photos don't show, so it matches the description of the die you found precisely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T07:34:13.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18523" CreationDate="2014-08-08T13:09:40.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have taught a bunch of different people how to play bridge, and we've developed a system over the years. It basically boils down to: go slowly. Don't overwhelm them with information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time that I play with them, I tell them nothing more than the rules. No conventions, no HCPs, no nothing. Just the literal rules as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play a few hands, perhaps even a full evening of cards like this, as you see fit, and based on how well they take it. Basically, just ask them to pay attention. Did they do well? What worked? What didn't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next time, or perhaps later that session, we introduce HCPs. Nothing more than that, and noting that there are 40 HCPs in a deck, so if they think that they and their partner have more than half, then they probably have the stronger hand and should be bidding a bit more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't remember what we would add next (I think 5 car majors? open with 12--14pts? 8 cards is a fit? Conventions like that. Basic ones.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, start basic. Let them get a feel for the game before even thinking of overwhelming them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To respond to one of your ideas, I think staged hands would be weird, personally. However, we never tried it, so I don't know how it would work. Still, it seems like staging a hand forces them to be aware of too many things all at once. Let them figure out finesses after they have been playing a while, not the first time you sit down with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8242" LastActivityDate="2014-08-08T13:09:40.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18535" CreationDate="2014-08-08T20:43:02.603" Score="11" ViewCount="5784" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a list of cards for a deck I want to build or buy. What should I do to check whether that deck is legal in a particular format (Standard, for example)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T22:26:16.067" Title="How should I determine whether a deck is legal in a particular format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18534" CreationDate="2014-08-08T20:43:02.603" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;When checking whether a decklist is legal in a particular format, you should follow these steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check that every card in your deck has a non-silver border or no structured border, rounded corners, and a normal card back, and that they are sleeved if you can tell any of them apart from the back.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check that your deck follows the deck construction rules for your particular format. Most formats follow the general deck-building rules laid out in the Comprehensive Rules &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100.2-100.5&lt;/a&gt;. Some formats have additional constraints though. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/100-card-singleton-format-formats-gameplay-game-info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Highlander&lt;/a&gt;, for example, requires that each deck have at least 100 cards (as opposed to the usual 60), and that you have only one of each card that's not a basic land.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determine what &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/formats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;sets are legal in your format&lt;/a&gt;, and make sure that each card has been printed in a legal set. The version of the card that you use doesn't have to be from one of those sets, as long as it was once printed in that set. Standard, for example, only allows cards from the last couple of years (with some exclusions), but if one of those sets contains a card originally printed in Beta, you can play the Beta version.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/bannedrestricted&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the ban list for your format&lt;/a&gt; and make sure that none of those cards are in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check the restricted list (found on the same page as the ban list) for your format and make sure that your deck has no more than one of each of those cards. Note that currently, only Vintage has a restricted list.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Websites exist that will help you determine your deck's legality automatically. A few popular examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://deckstats.net/upload-deck/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deckstats.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://deckbox.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deckbox.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-decks/add/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tappedout.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2017-10-13T22:26:16.067" LastActivityDate="2017-10-13T22:26:16.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18595" CreationDate="2014-08-08T21:15:29.217" Score="1" ViewCount="154" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mundus Novus, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redmeeple.com/site/images/Rules/Mundus_Novus_Rules(EN).PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; says the warehouse allows you to store products in it at the end of the progress phase. The problem is it is not clear when you can take products out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you take a commodity out of it in the trade step, or only in the progress step?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you swap the commodity found in a warehouse, replacing it with somewhing else in your hand? On what step?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-08-08T21:21:03.927" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:19:10.463" Title="When can you take commodities out of the warehouse?" Tags="|mundus-novus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34160" CreationDate="2014-08-09T16:10:33.203" Score="3" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the iconic races in Twilight Imperium are The Emirates of Hacan.  However, there is no pronunciation guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of many ways it could be pronounced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HA-KAN /hɑkɑn/, rhymes with &quot;spa don&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HA-ken /'hɑkən/, rhymes with &quot;glocken&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;huh-KAN /hə'kɑn/, rhymes with &quot;pecan&quot; (for some people)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HAY-ken /'hejkən/, rhymes with &quot;shaken&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;HACK-ken /'hækən/, rhymes with &quot;slacken&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so on...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Official sources are appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T01:48:48.783" LastActivityDate="2017-02-12T21:15:38.837" Title="How do you pronounce &quot;Hacan&quot; in Twilight Imperium?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18639" CreationDate="2014-08-09T16:46:18.400" Score="4" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a problem in Ascension with the order of the actions. I had enough force, so I killed a Mephit that allows me, when killed, to banish a card from the centre row. I intended to banish another monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GR2tb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mephit&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as explicitly said in an answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/184/6888&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; - and thus in the FAQ -, the first thing to do when a card leaves the centre row is to replace that even before we chose to banish another card. Accordingly, we replace the card and reveal a &quot;Change Events&quot; card. The next event is Souls Unbound which makes the monsters in the centre row unbanishable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/V9S6F.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Souls Unbound&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: the Mephit has been replaced by a &quot;change events&quot; card. Do we change events first (making the monsters unbanishable), or do we resolve the reward of the Mephit first? Depending on the order of the actions, it may permit to banish a monster &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it is unbanishable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6888" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T16:41:55.530" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T16:41:55.530" Title="Order of actions in Ascension" Tags="|ascension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-10T01:15:48.887" Score="2" ViewCount="464" Body="&lt;p&gt;With writing you can cancel a city action of another player. Do I have to do that directly after his action or am I allowed to react later in my city action time or in the city action time of another player? In this case I would interpret the city action as a phase in which all players can do city actions like this at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8248" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T21:15:41.880" Title="civ 2 tech writing" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18596" CreationDate="2014-08-10T03:55:46.257" Score="0" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there is a fire event, how exactly am I unable to use a warehouse? Am I unable to take commodities from it? I lose the commodities stored there? Or I simply can't add commodities to it, although I can take them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-08-10T16:03:49.200" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:07:49.450" Title="Fire and warehouses" Tags="|mundus-novus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2014-08-10T04:03:42.573" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the traditional response is to feed the game board to a tiger and award the offending player a toothbrush covered in jam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is to say, you're asking what the rules say should happen in a scenario that cannot happen if you're following the rules. That implies a contradiction, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paradoxes_of_material_implication&quot;&gt;contradiction implies anything&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/diplomacy.pdf&quot;&gt;The rules of the game&lt;/a&gt; say &quot;...each player writes an order for each of &lt;em&gt;his/her units&lt;/em&gt; on a piece of paper.&quot; (emphasis added). If you choose not to play the game that way, you're pretty much going to be on your own when it comes to deciding what the implications of your alternative rules are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7505" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T04:03:42.573" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18549" CreationDate="2014-08-10T17:22:21.413" Score="9" ViewCount="55814" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many go servers but all of them seem to be for player-player games. I want to play online against a computer. I found some but it is not an actual go. I was not able to find a real go brain online. Are there any at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;PS: In the end, I registered to KGS and later at WBaduk (but liked KGS much more) and I ended up playing against human players only. I found it much more fun than playing against a computer and since I tried it for the first time (online) I never went back to playing against the computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T12:35:59.103" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T00:15:02.717" Title="Is there a site to play Go online against a computer?" Tags="|go|online|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18539" CreationDate="2014-08-10T17:38:27.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With writing, you can deploy a diplomat to cancel another player's city action (at least that's the mechanic in the computer version). The diplomat can be deployed at any time on one of your turns, and will operate on an opposing city action that is underway on that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T17:38:27.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20855" CreationDate="2014-08-10T18:03:09.780" Score="3" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on 8 number puzzle, where 8 numbers are randomly generated and placed in 9 cell board. One cell at bottom right corner is kept empty where we can swap with adjacent (top-bottom-left-right) cells if any available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dbXGC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WFMEn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bMhCc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The puzzle can be solved if all numbers are arranged in sequence starting from top left cell.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JskRB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now after some trials, I found that some arrangements of (randomly generated) numbers in starting of the game are not solvable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XL45.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/30ZbA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think, after generating random numbers, we can find mathematically that random numbers can be solved after placing on board or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help to find the solution/algorithm/mathematical formula to determine that numbers can be solvable or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8228" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T00:21:56.350" Title="how to find that 8 number puzzle is solvable or not?" Tags="|puzzles|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18547" CreationDate="2014-08-10T18:18:18.713" Score="2" ViewCount="3447" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corspejack%20Menace&quot;&gt;Corspejack Menace&lt;/a&gt;s on the battlefield. I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kalonian%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Kalonian Hydra&lt;/a&gt; which is given haste by another effect, and decide to attack with it right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many counters are actually put on the Hydra by the time damage is resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the issues were if the Corpsejack Menace reacts to the Hydra being played. Since the Hydra comes into play with 4 +1/+1 counters on it, is that considered counters placed on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And does one Corspejack Menace react to the other Corpsejack Menace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T01:19:32.100" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T01:19:32.100" Title="How many counters does Kalonian Hydra get with two Corpsejack Menaces on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18546" CreationDate="2014-08-10T18:26:40.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpsejack%20Menace&quot;&gt;Corpsejack Menace&lt;/a&gt;s will double the counters, so if you would get 4 counters, you will now get 16 instead. (First doubled to 8, then doubled to 16). So in this case, the Hydra will enter with 16 counters, then when you attack, 16 more would get placed on it, which is doubled twice, so 64 more get placed on it, meaning that &lt;strong&gt;it is 80/80 when it attacks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both questions are addressed in the rulings on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpsejack%20Menace&quot;&gt;Corpsejack Menace&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature you control would enter the battlefield with a number of +1/+1 counters on it, it enters with twice that many instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you control two Corpsejack Menaces, the number of +1/+1 counters placed is four times the original number. Three Corpsejack Menaces multiplies the original number by eight, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this works is described in rule 615:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;615&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interaction of Replacement and/or Prevention Effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.1. If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object’s controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.1a If any of the replacement and/or prevention effects are self-replacement effects (see rule 613.14), one of them must be chosen. If not, proceed to rule 615.1b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.1b If any of the replacement and/or prevention effects would modify under whose control an object would enter the battlefield, one of them must be chosen. If not, proceed to rule 615.1c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.1c Any of the applicable replacement and/or prevention effects may be chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.1d Once the chosen effect has been applied, &lt;strong&gt;this process is repeated (taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable)&lt;/strong&gt; until there are no more left to apply.&#xA;Example: Two permanents are on the battlefield. One is an enchantment that reads “If a card would be put into a graveyard from anywhere, instead exile it,” and the other is a creature that reads “If [this creature] would be put into a graveyard from the battlefield, instead shuffle it into its owner’s library.” The controller of the creature that would be destroyed decides which replacement to apply first; the other does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that entering the battlefield with counters is itself a replacement effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.12. Some replacement effects modify how a permanent enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T18:26:40.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18542" CreationDate="2014-08-10T19:01:29.193" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Go servers allow computers to &quot;log in&quot; and play just like regular users. On KGS, for example, they are marked with a computer icon, and there is a setting in the &quot;automatch&quot; for finding games with bots. More details are available here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/help/faq/bots.html&quot;&gt;http://www.gokgs.com/help/faq/bots.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T19:01:29.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18551" CreationDate="2014-08-10T19:23:56.587" Score="4" ViewCount="4661" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing with a friend last night, and during one of our games i miscalculated the amount of mana needed to activate various abilities on my permanents. I ended up tapping too many lands (2 too many). Just as I pass the turn I realize that I have tapped too many lands. I inform my friend of this, and he says he knows, but that he did not wanted to tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He says that it is too late, and that the lands should stay tapped. I should have paying better attention in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is therefore: Is it at all possible to tap lands for mana if the mana has nothing to activate/pay casting cost for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I made a mistake in the first place, but what is the ruling on this kind of situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T18:52:25.590" Title="Can more lands be tapped for mana than needed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18550" CreationDate="2014-08-10T19:43:02.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always tap any lands at any time that you have priority (any time you could do pretty much anything in the game); it doesn't matter if you have anything to spend that mana on. Note that you can either tap lands for mana as part of the process of casting a spell (or activating an ability), or you can do it as a separate action. But in either case, there is nothing to stop you from tapping for more mana than you need / intend to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-10T19:43:02.050" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18550" CreationDate="2014-08-10T20:31:13.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Land is not mana itself, but it produces mana. When you tap it, you add mana to the mana pool. There is nothing wrong with adding too much mana to your mana pool (see the article below), but unused mana is wasted. So, your friend is correct and your lands should stay tapped, as you used them to generate mana to your mana pool. The fact that you didn't use that mana is your choice/mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you made a mistake and have to live with it. (Although, if the match isn't competitive, I would say that it isn't a big deal to fix the mistake if your opponent agrees.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a historical aside, prior to Magic 2010, things would have been a little different. There used to be a concept called 'mana burn' in which you would lose a life for every unused mana in your mana pool. They got rid of the concept for the reasons outlined &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120014846/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (under 3B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the rule was minor and most people weren't aware of it, so it didn't have a big impact on the core game when it was removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edited in order to address the concerns raised in the comments below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8251" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T18:52:25.590" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T18:52:25.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18550" CreationDate="2014-08-10T21:44:36.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Extra mana&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following are specific sections from the comprehensive rulebook that address your primary question (emphasis added).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;106.4. When an effect produces mana, that mana goes into a player’s mana pool. &lt;strong&gt;From there, it can be used to pay costs immediately, or it can stay in the player’s mana pool.&lt;/strong&gt; Each player’s mana pool empties at the end of each step and phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;106.4a If a player passes priority (see rule 116) while there is mana in his or her mana pool, that player announces what mana is there. If any mana remains in a player’s mana pool after he or she spends mana to pay a cost, that player announces what mana is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As previous answers have said, there is nothing that prevents you from producing more mana than you are capable of spending. The extra mana will stay in your mana pool until the next end step or phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rolling back&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;When to reverse past actions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game can only be reversed if it is put into an error state. A player cannot choose to roll back the game because they forgot to take an action such as using all of the mana pool. Since producing mana that you cannot use is not an illegal action, play will proceed as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Illegal actions&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your secondary question of what to do when you find yourself about to/just have taken an action that actual is illegal, the entire action must be reversed and payments made are cancelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tournament rules&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament game, judges will be present to help ensure that the games are played according to the rulebook. Players will be held accountable and can be issued penalties for putting the game into an illegal state. However, it is the shared responsibility of all players in a game to make sure that no illegal actions are allowed to occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Casual games&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casual games are not necessarily subject to the strict interpretation of the comprehensive rules when all participants are in agreement as to how loose the rules can be followed. When playing with friends or people of different skill levels, the rules can be relaxed to promote a potentially more enjoyable game. However, a player that makes a mistake is still at the mercy of their opponents if leniency is requested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;In short&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your friend is correct that it is your responsibility to keep track of your mana pool. Of course as long as this isn't a officially judged game, different people may give you different amounts of leeway until you become experienced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7533" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T01:48:09.240" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18731" CreationDate="2014-08-11T09:31:36.993" Score="0" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very straightforward question, can neutral cards be added to a domain as a resource? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find anything that says you cant, but just wanted to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T04:38:55.600" Title="Can neutral cards be used as a resource?" Tags="|call-of-cthulhu-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18555" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T13:04:01.600" Score="1" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;My nephew is 4 years old. I want to teach him a simple card game (my intention is that in some years he will be able to play bridge). For now, I just want to make him familiar with the cards. What simple game appropriate for really young people do you propose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5887" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T13:25:29.123" Title="Card game for children" Tags="|playing-cards|teaching|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-13T00:08:51.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18555" CreationDate="2014-08-11T13:17:40.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started to play &quot;Tschau Sepp&quot; with my son who is also four years old. This is a swiss version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mau_Mau_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mau-Mau&lt;/a&gt;. It is similar to Uno but uses a regular set of cards. He likes to play it but still needs some help as he often misses that cards in his hand have the same value (number) as the played card. Therefor we often play with our hands shown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T13:17:40.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18558" CreationDate="2014-08-11T13:32:53.060" Score="2" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have this situation: I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; out. An opponent's non-token &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kalonian%20Twingrove&quot;&gt;Kalonian Twingrove&lt;/a&gt; dies during my turn and I choose to imprint it and put it as a copy token on my side of the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;When Kalonian Twingrove enters the battlefield...&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; trigger for me and thus I get 2 of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If 1. is true, do I only have to exile the first Kalonian Twingrove token by Mimic Vat on the next end step and get to keep the cloned token from it's &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;...enters the battlefield...&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8141" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T14:20:24.187" Title="Do I get to keep the 2nd Kalonian Twingrove when I got it via a Mimic Vat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18557" CreationDate="2014-08-11T13:44:32.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulings on Mimic Vat say: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any enters-the-battlefield abilities of the exiled card will trigger when the token is put onto the battlefield. Any &quot;as [this permanent] enters the battlefield&quot; or &quot;[this permanent] enters the battlefield with&quot; abilities of the exiled card will also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you will get one token copy of a Kalonian Twingrove, and one Treefolk Warrior token. The Treefolk Warrior token won't be exiled, as it wasn't created by the Mimic Vat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming you have any forests in play. If you do not, then both tokens will immediately die for having 0 toughness and vanish!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T14:06:26.140" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T14:06:26.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18570" CreationDate="2014-08-11T14:06:26.010" Score="1" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm referring specifically to hands like (s)AKQJx (h) Jxx (d)xxx (c) xx or (s) AKQTx (h) Qxx (d) xxx (c)xx that are technically just under the usual requirements for a one bid, but nevertheless have five tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In first or second seat, I would want to open at the one level to give partner a chance to bid. But in third seat, would it be better to open a &quot;weak two&quot; because partner doesn't have opening hand (that would allow a game opposite my holdings) while I fear that fourth seat does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is this hand worth opening in fourth seat on the assumption that if the remaining 29 high card points are &quot;evenly&quot; distributed, partner will have the three tricks I need to make the contract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T13:26:21.683" Title="Are there hands that should be opened at the one level in first or second seat, and with a &quot;weak two&quot; opposite a passing partner?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18557" CreationDate="2014-08-11T14:20:24.187" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes. It entered the battlefield, so its ability triggered. It doesn't matter how it entered the battlefield. It doesn't matter that it didn't exist before appearing on the battlefield. It wasn't on the battlefield, and now it is, so its ability triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Correct. Nothing instructs you to exile the token created by Kalonian Twingrove, so you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T14:20:24.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18561" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-11T20:40:53.983" Score="0" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I want to start playing competitive magic again, in the standard format (just started up again after about 6 years of not playing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it for me to build a competitive standard deck right now, considering that the RTR block will be rotating out and most competitive decks contain RTR cards? Or should I just play draft right now to build up cards that will be in the Theros block and will still be legal In standard play come this fall, and wait to see what decks are still competitive this fall after the new set rolls in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8260" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-11T23:13:16.600" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T23:13:16.600" Title="Is it worthwhile to build a competive Standard M15 deck when a block is about to rotate out?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-08-12T08:14:41.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18561" CreationDate="2014-08-11T21:50:48.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would seriously consider waiting for the rotation. Two, possibly three of the major decks (namely U/W Control, Mono-Black Devotion and possibly Mono-Blue, whose competitiveness will depend on on the strength of red in Tarkir block) will be completely transformed or outright lost to rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would focus on getting the key cards from Theros block/M15 that are safe vet to be used in decks after rotation. Stuff like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hero%27s%20Downfall&quot;&gt;Hero&amp;#39;s Downfall&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sylvan%20Caryatid&quot;&gt;Sylvan Caryatid&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Courser%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stormbreath%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Stormbreath Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nissa%2C%20WorldWaker&quot;&gt;Nissa, WorldWaker&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elspeth%2C%20Sun%27s%20Champion&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Sun&amp;#39;s Champion&lt;/a&gt; etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-08-11T21:50:48.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18555" CreationDate="2014-08-12T01:03:27.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are my suggestions of games that teach various card game rules, ranked in order from least difficult to most difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/quartet/gofish.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go Fish&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; has simple rules and can help you learn basics of card games, such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identifying matching sets of cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identifying card names and suits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Waiting your turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Communicating with opponents when required (and being truthful about it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drawing and holding cards without revealing them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/war/war.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;War&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; kicks the&#xA;competitive level up a bit and has more rules. In addition, you learn card value progression, including the hierarchy of J-K (which can be explained fairly simply if the player is familiar with monarchy, fictional or otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Competition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winning a round without winning the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/beating/cheat.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bullshit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a matching game, like Go Fish, but it adds the concept of a bluff and shows that following the rules can sometimes feel like cheating, since duping your opponent is truly the objective of the game. This is useful when later learning games like poker. Also, this can introduce the concept of '&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_rule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;house rules&lt;/a&gt;', and hones your ability to agree on extra rules once the game is in progress and tensions are high. Requires 3 or more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/ginrummy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gin Rummy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; has quite a few rules in theory, but is quite simple to play most of the time. It provides practice for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identification of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Run_(cards)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;runs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the discard pile to draw from&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keeping score&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8261" LastEditorUserId="8261" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T13:25:29.123" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T13:25:29.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18559" CreationDate="2014-08-12T01:34:40.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hesitate to use a word like &quot;never&quot; when it comes to bidding advice, but such a situation would be rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In third seat, 1-level and 2-level openings both tend to become less disciplined, not more. A weak hand in 3rd seat must stretch to preempt the presumed strong hand in fourth seat. Playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/Drury.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Drury convention&lt;/a&gt;, responder can stay low when opener opens light, and opening light in third seat can help your side make the correct decision in a partscore auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fourth seat, 1-level openings may be light when opener has a good spade holding. A common agreement is that 2-level bids are &quot;intermediate&quot;: about 10-14 HCP with a 6-card suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hands that you gave I would certainly open 1S in third or fourth seat; I may pass them or open 1S in first or second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T01:34:40.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18566" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T04:00:26.477" Score="2" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if I had three different archetypes on the field: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Imagination&quot;&gt;Archetype of Imagination&lt;/a&gt; (gives flying), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Endurance&quot;&gt;Archetype of Endurance&lt;/a&gt; (gives hexproof), and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Finality&quot;&gt;Archetype of Finality&lt;/a&gt; (gives deathtouch)? Would all three of their effects work on my creatures at once or not at all because of the Archetype of Endurance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8262" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T04:54:13.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T04:57:13.803" Title="Do multiple Archetypes work together?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18566" CreationDate="2014-08-12T04:57:13.803" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they'll work together. The definition of hexproof is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.11b &quot;Hexproof&quot; on a permanent means &quot;This permanent can’t be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Archetypes' abilities don't target, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; they're not controlled by your opponent, so hexproof definitely does not prevent them from applying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T04:57:13.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2014-08-12T09:08:33.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe 289 is the highest possible score. &#xA;I have achieved it. &#xA;Those who say 295 w/ Miami failed to subtract KC to Houston, another 5 points. &#xA;I'm trying to figure out why the original document says 290 is the highest-- maybe just a math error. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8264" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T09:08:33.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18536" CreationDate="2014-08-12T11:07:05.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play as if the cards are in your hand (besides the obvious new rule: you don't need to discard them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when can you use them? When you like. Replacing? Assume all the cards are you in your hand, so this question is now irrelevant. When? In the progress step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Justifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of this phase, the players must discard all unused cards &#xA;  (unless they are placed in a warehouse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note it does not say the cards are put on top of the warehouse cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Warehouses are valuable because they can &#xA;  store unused goods at the end of a round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's all warehouses do - there are no further clarifications on timing or anything else because there doesn't need to be any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practical:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In play, I tend to put the cards that can fit into my warehouses, on top of the warehouse cards - just because it permits me to play quicker, knowing that I've set aside the cards that I believe are important to keep and thus calculating the rest of my purchases can continue unencumbered. Understand that this convention is not in the rules, nowhere does it say you need to put your cards &quot;on top&quot; of the warehouse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2634" LastEditorUserId="2634" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T16:35:18.350" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T16:35:18.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18559" CreationDate="2014-08-12T13:26:21.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking the advice of Marty Bergen this nice suits can be treated as &lt;a href=&quot;http://richmondbridgeassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/bergensecrets.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6-card suits&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fourth seat I would do as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.larryco.com/BridgeArticles/ArticleDetails.aspx?articleID=315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Larry Cohen suggests&lt;/a&gt; and thus open this hand with 2S as it is in the range of 10-14 HCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In third seat I would it make dependent on our convention card. If we agreed on Drury convention I would open 1S with both hands. If we would not play the Drury convention the risk of getting a limit raise response, which I have to pass, is just to big. Therefor I would open 2S. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T13:26:21.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18572" CreationDate="2014-08-12T15:01:53.153" Score="5" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know that a really messed up rules situation must involve a Humility. So here we go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.blackborder.com/q/node/18442&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; discusses the scenario when an &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pc/en/165.html&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt; becomes animated (e.g. via &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m15/en/187.html&quot;&gt;Nissa, Worldwaker&lt;/a&gt;), while a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/tp/en/236.html&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; is on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The author of the mentioned article comes to the conclusion that all lands are now swamps, yet Urborg itself cannot be tapped for mana, since it has lost all its abilities to Humility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is: Urborg looses its rules text saying that each land is now also a Swamp. So why do the lands continue to be Swamps? Would they loose their Swamp type if Urborg left play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T16:00:50.713" Title="Animated Urborg and Humility" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18571" CreationDate="2014-08-12T15:19:45.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lands continue to be Swamps because of the layer system. The layer system, described in section 613 of the comprehensive rules, is one of the most complex parts of the rules to understand and remember correctly. But basically, what it says is that when multiple continuous effects are being applied, (Such as Urborg's effect and Humility's effect), there is an order in which the different types of effects are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urborg's effect, as a Type-Changing Effect, is applied in layer 4. After it has been applied, (and all lands are now swamps in addition to their other types), layer 6 is applied, which is Ability Adding or Removing Effects, including the effect from Humility that removes the ability from animated Urborg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time the game-state changes, these layers are re-applied to get the new current state of things. But whenever they are re-applied, Urborg's effect is applied before Humility's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, if Urborg left play, then the layers would be re-applied, and now there is nothing to change the lands into Swamps, so they would lose their Swamp type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good explanation of the layer system &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150916173223/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20091105a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think an important key to understanding this is realizing that it's not so much that the other lands &amp;quot;lose their Swamp type&amp;quot; when Urborg leaves play (or when Urborg loses it's ability). Rather, it's that whenever the game-state changes, everything is re-evaluated, starting from what's printed on the card and adding the layers one at a time. So as opposed to the lands &amp;quot;losing&amp;quot; the Swamp type, they simply no longer have it added again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T18:52:53.353" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T18:52:53.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18571" CreationDate="2014-08-12T15:20:40.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are asking about the interaction of two Continuous Effects. The rules covering this are found in aptly named CR 613, &quot;Interaction of Continuous Effects&quot;. It documents that continuous effects are continually reapplied in layers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.1d Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object’s card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.1f Layer 6: Ability-adding effects, ability-removing effects, and effects that say an object can’t have an ability are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect from Urborg's ability and Nissa's ability are type-changing effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect from Humility's ability removes abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, Nissa animates Urborg and Urborg makes each land a Swamp (in addition to its other types) before Humility removes the abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T15:20:40.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18571" CreationDate="2014-08-12T15:22:18.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulings on Urbog from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/card/plc/165/urborg-tomb-of-yawgmoth?utm_source=mci&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;page you linked to&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Urborg loses its abilities (for example, it becomes a creature and then Ovinize is cast on it), all lands on the battlefield, including Urborg, will still be Swamps, but Urborg won't have the ability &amp;quot;Each land is a Swamp in addition to its other land types.&amp;quot; Urborg also won't be able to tap to produce {B}, but other lands (including those that enter the battlefield later in the turn) will. The way continuous effects work, Urborg's type-changing ability is applied before Ovinize removes both the type-changing ability and its own mana ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the issue is the order in which continuous abilities apply, which is the Layers system in M:TG. Type defining abilities apply in the layer 4 while loses-all-abilities is in layer 6.&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150916173223/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20091105a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Article Explaining layers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that your process layer 4 first, giving all lands the swamp type. Then you process layer 5 (colour changing effects). Then layer 6 where all creatures become 1/1 and lose all their abilities. Since the type change happened in layer 4, all lands are now swamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Urborg leaves play, then it will no longer be applying the Swap type in layer 4, and so lands will lose their extra swamp type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-09T16:00:50.713" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T16:00:50.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18575" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18587" CreationDate="2014-08-12T16:19:10.493" Score="12" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this instance, I'm looking at Matt Sperling's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/dd/burn-pro-tour-2014-08-07&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pro Tour top 8 Boros Burn deck&lt;/a&gt;, and there's one thing I don't get--what's the single &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eidolon%20of%20the%20Great%20Revel&quot;&gt;Eidolon of the Great Revel&lt;/a&gt; doing here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Young Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eidolon%20of%20the%20Great%20Revel&quot;&gt;Eidolon of the Great Revel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chandra%27s%20Phoenix&quot;&gt;Chandra&amp;#39;s Phoenix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullcrack&quot;&gt;Skullcrack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Charm&quot;&gt;Boros Charm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stoke%20the%20Flames&quot;&gt;Stoke the Flames&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warleader%27s%20Helix&quot;&gt;Warleader&amp;#39;s Helix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Searing%20Blood&quot;&gt;Searing Blood&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mutavault&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sacred%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Sacred Foundry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mountain&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlefield%20Forge&quot;&gt;Battlefield Forge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20of%20Triumph&quot;&gt;Temple of Triumph&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7644" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T00:09:52.583" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T04:13:49.863" Title="How do I identify the role of a singleton in a well-tuned deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15349" CreationDate="2014-08-12T18:06:17.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/canfield&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bicycle cards&lt;/a&gt; lists the more restrictive rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any movable card or cards (from tableau, reserve, or stock) may be placed only on a card next-higher in rank and of opposite color in the tableau. Example: The  8♥ may be placed on  9♣ or  9♠. An entire pile of the tableau must be moved as a unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/od/solitaire/a/canfield.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boardgames.about.com&lt;/a&gt; also lists the more restrictive rule.&#xA;To move cards from one tableau pile to another, you may only move the entire pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T02:06:46.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18579" CreationDate="2014-08-12T19:49:46.540" Score="3" ViewCount="3328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I borrowed an opponent's creature (e.g. via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Threaten&quot;&gt;Threaten&lt;/a&gt;) and then let it phase out (e.g. via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reality%20Ripple&quot;&gt;Reality Ripple&lt;/a&gt;). Under whose control does it phase in, and when? Under whose control does it phase in if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20and%20Tide&quot;&gt;Time and Tide&lt;/a&gt; is cast the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T20:12:40.110" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T21:10:52.420" Title="Stealing and Phasing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18577" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:50:06.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the creature phases in on your next untap step, your opponent will control it. It phases in on &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; next untap step because rule 702.25a says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Phasing is a static ability that modifies the rules of the untap step. During each player’s untap step, before the active player untaps his or her permanents, all phased-in permanents with phasing that player controls “phase out.” &lt;strong&gt;Simultaneously, all phased-out permanents that had phased out under that player’s control “phase in.”.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the permanent phased out under your control, it phases in on your untap step. Your opponent will control it because rule 702.25e says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Continuous effects that affect a phased-out permanent may expire while that permanent is phased out. If so, they will no longer affect that permanent once it’s phased in.&lt;/strong&gt; In particular, effects with “for as long as” durations that track that permanent (see rule 611.2b) end when that permanent phases out because they can no longer see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Threaten effect lasts &quot;until end of turn&quot;, so at the end of your turn the effect ended. Therefore, when the creature phases in, the effect that made you control it expires and control reverts to the previous controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Time and Tide causes the permanent to phase in during your turn, you will still control it until your turn ends. Rule 702.25d says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The phasing event doesn’t actually cause a permanent to change zones or control&lt;/strong&gt;, even though it’s treated as though it’s not on the battlefield and not under its controller’s control while it’s phased out. Zone-change triggers don’t trigger when a permanent phases in or out. Counters remain on a permanent while it’s phased out. Effects that check a phased-in permanent’s history won’t treat the phasing event as having caused the permanent to leave or enter the battlefield or its controller’s control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T20:50:06.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18577" CreationDate="2014-08-12T20:57:17.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When does it phase back in?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following describes the first thing to happen in the Untap Step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;502.1. First, all phased-in permanents with phasing that the active player controls phase out, and all phased-out permanents that the active player controlled when they phased out phase in. This all happens simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. See rule 702.25, “Phasing.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you controlled the creature when it phased out, it will phase in at the start of your next Untap Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Under whose control does it phase in?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that a creature doesn't change zones when it phases out. Being phased in or not is a status like being tapped or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.25d The phasing event doesn’t actually cause a permanent to change zones or control, even though it’s treated as though it’s not on the battlefield and not under its controller’s control while it’s phased out. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it never ceases to be a permanent, it never ceases to have a controller. As such, the real question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Who controls it when it phase back in?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.2. [...] A permanent’s controller is, by default, the player under whose control it entered the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuous effects, such as the one created by Threaten, can override a permanent's controller for as long as the continuous effect exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The continuous effect created by Threaten functions until the end of the turn on which it was cast (or more specifically, until the Cleanup Step). (Even &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; cannot override that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a creature is phased out, it's unaffected by continuous effects such as the one created by Threaten, but that's not important since the continuous effect will continue to affect it should when it phases back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.25b If a permanent phases out, its status changes to “phased out.” Except for rules and effects that specifically mention phased-out permanents, a phased-out permanent is treated as though it does not exist. It can’t affect or be affected by anything else in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.25c If a permanent phases in, its status changes to “phased in.” The game once again treats it as though it exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it's phased in and its the turn in which you cast Threaten, you control it. Your opponent controls it otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what happens step-by-step,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Threaten, you create a continuous effect that gives you control of one of your opponent's creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Reality Ripple, you phase out the creature. It's temporarily unaffected by the continuous effect created by Threaten, so he regains control of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As your turn is about to end, the continuous effect giving you control of your opponent's creature ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent spends a turn without his creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As your turn starts, the opponent's creature phases in. It's still under his control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to cast Time and Tide on the same turn you cast Theaten, the following happens instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Threaten, you create a continuous effect that gives you control of one of your opponent's creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using Reality Ripple, you phase out the creature. It's temporarily unaffected by the continuous effect created by Threaten, so he regains control of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You phase in the creature using Time and Tide. The continuous effect created by Threaten resumes giving you control of the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As your turn is about to end, the continuous effect giving you control of your opponent's creature ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-08-12T21:10:52.420" LastActivityDate="2014-08-12T21:10:52.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T21:06:19.303" Score="2" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just bought Priests of Ra and am really enjoying it, but am not quite sure how the final turn of each epoch should be played. The rules state an epoch ends when the final sun is flipped over, so what happens when the second to last sun is flipped over? Does the player with one remaining sun get to keep drawing tiles on his own, and can call &quot;Ra&quot; and bid on them with no-one opposing him? This seems a little odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T00:17:14.977" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T00:17:14.977" Title="How does the last turn of an epoch run in Priests of Ra?" Tags="|priests-of-ra|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18582" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-12T22:36:39.207" Score="3" ViewCount="1679" Body="&lt;p&gt;The B side of the &quot;Wish for children&quot; card titled &quot;Urgent wish for children&quot; requires you to build a &quot;Dwelling&quot; prior to family growth. Dwelling is written with a capital D on the card. Does that mean that you are required to build the regular dwelling priced at 4 wood, 3 stone that gives you 3 goal points or are you allowed to build any of the different types of dwellings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5056" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T10:37:37.217" Title="Does the &quot;Urgent wish for children&quot; card in Caverna allow construction of all types of dwellings?" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18588" CreationDate="2014-08-13T00:25:14.470" Score="4" ViewCount="3055" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently recovered a treasure trove of &quot;lost&quot; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wffnp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you're physically recoiling at the thought of all those warped and potentially bent cards, I'm right there with you)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They run the gamut from Portal (1st) to Odyssy Block to Zendikar Block to M10 and M11, and who knows what else. I'd like to catalog them eventually (I estimate about 5,000 cards, including land), but in the meantime, a friend suggested I use these to set up a draft!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which, in retrospect, might be hard to realize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of issues at play here - the cards are obviously not in packs at this point, and while the rarity makes it pretty easy to compose boosters of 11 commons, 3 uncommons, and 1 rare/mythic, the cards are not sorted per set -- are there any considerations to be made regarding to mixing sets? (At this point, I'm not even sure the full list of represented sets) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, which sets might be &quot;better&quot; for drafting? Part of the appeal of this box is the size of the timegap between the early and later cards,  so I'd like to mix in as many sets as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of numbers, each player getting 6 &quot;packs&quot; of 15 cards is usually how my friends and I draft -- is there a benefit to using more &quot;packs&quot; due to the set disparities? Any other thoughts or considerations I may have missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8278" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T12:59:21.733" Title="How should I set up a draft from multiple old sets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18581" CreationDate="2014-08-13T06:45:26.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like yes, I was correct in my original question, the final player gets to keep drawing tiles until the epoch ends, e.g. by the Ra track filling up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/811805/last-person-have-sun-tile&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/811805/last-person-have-sun-tile&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8277" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T06:45:26.980" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18583" CreationDate="2014-08-13T10:23:38.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll extend my comment to an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would do the following: Sort the cards according to their color, plus one pile for multicolored, artifacts, and nonbasic lands.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Then make sure that each pile (except for the land pile) has around 70% creatures.&#xA;If the color piles are of very different size, then I would randomly remove some cards (or you could fill up the other piles with cards from your collection).&#xA;From the non-creature spells, try to keep removal and avoid silly situational cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mudhole&quot;&gt;Mudhole&lt;/a&gt;. Then make booster packs of 15 cards that roughly contain an equal amount of cards of each color. With those booster packs you can then continue to create the limited format of your preference.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Personally, I would ignore rarity completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T10:23:38.240" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18575" CreationDate="2014-08-13T13:49:33.127" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with this deck in particular, but it looks like this is a good example of a &lt;i&gt;miser's copy&lt;/i&gt; (a singleton, usually with the connotation that it has a unique effect within your deck but you have no way to tutor for it). Some things to note about that card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is really good in some situations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is really bad in others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the situations where it is bad, it is horrible in multiples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even if it is overall bad, drawing one is probably not the end of the world&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) is the argument for running the card at all. (2) argues against running the card. (3) and (4) are where you might come to the conclusion to run exactly one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect &quot;potentially horrible in multiples&quot; was a major contributor here. Drawing too many of the Eidolon means you're not drawing targeted burn, and therefore not burning your opponent (or your opponent's blockers). They trigger each other, so casting multiple copies risks just killing yourself instead of your opponent; it's easy to envision situations where you lose a close race because you drew the second Eidolon, but literally any burn spell would have worked. Running too many also reduces the effectiveness of your other creatures, which need a lot of instants and sorceries to work at their full potential. Finally, &quot;damages self&quot; is not a drawback that stacks well; you only have one life total, so you can only eat into it so much before you need to gain life somehow or be certain you can kill the opponent first[1].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adrian Sullivan has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/15002-Sullivan-Library-One.html&quot;&gt;written&lt;/a&gt; about singletons in the past; in his terms, I'm arguing that the Eidolon suffers from diminishing returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] I didn't notice this until after I wrote the answer, but the deck only has 3 Sacred Foundry. This is a clue that avoiding too much self-damage was a factor in tuning the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T04:13:49.863" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T04:13:49.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18583" CreationDate="2014-08-13T14:58:46.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made the assumption that you trust your friends not to steal your cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two formats are relevant to your situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Repack Draft&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drafting with boosters made from already opened cards is known as a Repack Draft. My local game store runs these all the time for a much discounted price. I sometimes help out with the setup. We value cards according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/melissadetora-041212-a-beginners-guide-to-drafting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;B.R.E.A.D.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make color coordinated piles of Bombs, Removal, Evasive creatures, Attackers, and Defenders. There are also the oddball special lands and other things that don't fit. Fill 15 boosters with cards from these piles. Bombs should be sparse. Removal should be somewhat sparse. Attackers should be plentiful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards are simply broken outside of their respective sets. Others seem all but useless. The useless cards are no fun to draft. The broken cards should just be considered bombs. If you don't know how to judge the power level of a card, then you shouldn't expect a balanced draft the first time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just a tip - put your own spin on the packs. We once added a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terramorphic%20Expanse&quot;&gt;Terramorphic Expanse&lt;/a&gt; to every single booster. It was well received by the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cube Draft&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same as a Repack Draft with two exceptions: you get your cards back. With this in mind, you can put a lot more thought into selecting cards. You can make sure the colors are more even (or not). You can make a removal heavy cube, a bomb heavy cube, or even a cube made entirely of rares and mythicals. You get to be the designer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suggest you read &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150311111730/http://www.cubedrafting.com/2009/03/20/how-to-begin-your-cube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Begin Your Cube by Evan on CubeDrafting.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The nice thing about cubes is that if you misjudge the power level of a card or group of cards, you can just adjust it after the draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="38225" LastEditDate="2022-04-03T12:59:21.733" LastActivityDate="2022-04-03T12:59:21.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-13T19:11:46.710" Score="1" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a simple card &quot;game&quot; out there called &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;War&lt;/a&gt;.  You take a deck of cards, shuffle it and divide it into two piles.  Both players reveal their top card, whoever has the higher card wins the round.  This continues until you run out of cards and you see who's won.  (There's a wrinkle for ties that isn't relevant here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a game of War, neither player has any choice at all -- their actions are entirely predetermined by the order of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this a game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2014-08-13T19:11:46.710" Title="Is War actually a game?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-08-16T05:40:35.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18597" CreationDate="2014-08-14T00:42:06.723" Score="3" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, &quot;equal vulnerability&quot; means both sides vulnerable or both not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sacrificing against a major suit game, &quot;down two&quot; means -500 when vulnerable versus -300 when not. This compares against opposing games (plus bonuses) of 620 and 420 respectively. In either case, you are saving 120 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you go down one (undoubled) against a part score, it's -50 not vulnerable, and -100 vulnerable. Counting a part score bonus of 50, either result represents a savings against a part score of 60+50=110. But down one vulnerable represents a loss against a part score of 40 (plus the 50 bonus for 90).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the two &quot;equal vulnerabilities&quot; are &quot;equal&quot; against a game but not against all part scores. Is this a large enough factor to bid differently when both vulnerable than both not? This question is probably more applicable at matchpoints and perhaps IMPS than rubber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:02:30.410" Title="In bridge, are the two &quot;equal vulnerabilities&quot; basically equal?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18536" CreationDate="2014-08-14T00:55:49.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got pointed to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8049712#8049712&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a thread at BGG with the author's answer to this question&lt;/a&gt;. Cards stored in a warehouse are taken into its owner's hand in the beginning of his turn, at the same time he gets his 5 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-08-14T01:19:10.463" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:19:10.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18540" CreationDate="2014-08-14T01:07:49.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since cards may be stored in warehouses only in the end of a players turn (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redmeeple.com/site/images/Rules/Mundus_Novus_Rules(EN).PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 7 and 8) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/18595/6518&quot;&gt;must be taken out of the warehouses when players get their 5 cards&lt;/a&gt;, the answer is straightforward: a player simply cannot store goods in them. This is explained by the game's author &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/8049712#8049712&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:07:49.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18594" CreationDate="2014-08-14T01:14:03.993" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The equal vulnerability is only talked about at game level or higher. I haven't heard it being used for partscore battles, where it does not make too much sense, as you say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing matchpoints, in partscore battles, the deciding factor is whether you are vulnerable or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-100 (down 1 double, non vul) might lead to a great score, but -200 (down 1 doubled, vul) is usually a poor score at matchpoints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T01:14:03.993" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18688" CreationDate="2014-08-14T06:59:54.047" Score="11" ViewCount="31368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any winning strategy in International Checkers for 3 or more kings vs 1 king?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've reached a draw because the opponent was moving his single king on the diagonal from one end to another, and I could find no way to stop him doing so and made a trap for the king. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8283" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T12:17:38.650" LastActivityDate="2020-04-15T16:34:38.147" Title="International Checkers - winning strategy for 3 [4] kings vs 1 king" Tags="|checkers|end-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2014-08-14T08:53:16.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;3 kings vs 1 king is usually not enough for force a win, because (as you discovered), you can't catch a king that can safely stay on the main diagonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that 1 king vs 1 king (where neither king is immediately lost) is an immediate draw; 2 kings (or a king and a piece) vs 1 king is a draw if no captures occur within five moves, three kings (or two kings and a piece, or one king and two pieces) vs 1 king is a draw if no captures occur within 15 moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game is also a draw if only king moves are played for 25 consecutive turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;em&gt;four&lt;/em&gt; kings against a single king, there are various ways to trap the king on the long diagonal; &lt;a href=&quot;http://dezlaren.home.xs4all.nl/opgaven/e_techniek.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; shows a few (the bottom four diagrams). I must admit I don't understand the last one, I don't really play this game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T08:53:16.400" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-14T16:37:37.447" Score="3" ViewCount="954" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought the Pathfinder Adventure Card Game, and liked it so much that I then also got all the Add-Ons in quick succession. But I am a bit unsure when to add the cards from the Character Add-On to the Base Set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only include them when playing with more than 4 characters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only include them when playing one of the additional characters from the set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or can I just leave them in the box, shuffled in among the Base Set?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8287" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T12:23:13.410" Title="Pathfinder ACG: When do I use the Character Add-On cards?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18601" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18602" CreationDate="2014-08-14T17:21:52.290" Score="13" ViewCount="3800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm fairly new to Settlers. I was playing online last night and drew a Knight card.  The robber was already on a tile that had two of the game leader's cities attached.  I had few resource cards at the time, so I wasn't close to being able to get something I needed, so I saved it for a few turns. When I finally played it, the other player went off on me for not playing the knight sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, no, I did not already have two other knights, so it would not have gotten me the largest Army token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: Is it always better to play the knight immediately, or can it make more strategic sense to play save it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1211" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T18:10:40.130" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T17:56:41.047" Title="Is it always better to play a knight immediately?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2014-08-14T17:39:39.120" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer is no, it is not always in your best interest to immediately play a knight when you get one.  In all truth I would say that it is better to hold onto it for a while unless the robber is currently in a position that is hurting you. By holding onto it you accomplish two things, first you keep protection for yourself allowing you to move the robber if it moves to a bad place for you. Second it allows you some time to make sure you optimize use of the card.  And lastly if the robber is in a place that hurts your opponents and not you that is great reason to not play the knight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T17:39:39.120" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15526" CreationDate="2014-08-14T20:29:12.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is this a valid 7-piece continuous road?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHxZn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aHxZn.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this examples will be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/dV8fUGxz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Old ASCII art&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8289" LastEditorUserId="8289" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T12:19:43.243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T12:19:43.243" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2014-08-14T21:36:48.383" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its almost always better to save the knight and NOT play it immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can play the knight when the robber is blocking one of your settlements to unblock it.  You can even do this before you roll the dice on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Having an unplayed knight as a threat can convince a player who rolled a 7 to place the robber elsewhere rather than somewhere that blocks your settlement, as if he blocks your settlement, you'll play the knight to move the robber to block his settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only a couple of times you want to play it immediately&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when doing so will prevent another player from winning by denying them the largest army&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;when you already have other unplayed cards, as you can only play one card per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2014-08-14T21:36:48.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24949" CreationDate="2014-08-15T08:30:21.777" Score="3" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently committed to buying the Game of Thrones Living Card Game from Fantasy Flight so I can play with a number of friends who also have it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage, I know will be buying the Core set, but am a bit overwhelmed at all the available expansions and chapter packs. To be competitive amongst my friends (not tournaments), I know I need to get additional cards beyond those in the core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really enjoyed playing 'blue' decks in Magic due to their control of the field and 'tricks' up their sleeve by being able to cancel or negate the effects of my opponents.  I really dislike rush/monster heavy decks as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, my question is, which Game of Thrones LCG house/expansions best reflect a play style similar to 'blue' decks in MTG as described above?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="5762" LastEditDate="2014-08-19T05:09:40.783" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T08:29:10.007" Title="Which Game of Thrones LCG house/expansions best reflect a play style similar to 'blue' decks in MTG?" Tags="|game-of-thrones-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18461" CreationDate="2014-08-15T13:31:25.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;If while shooting for the Queen you also sink one of your pieces, the Queen is automatically covered, no matter which went in first.&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://carrom.org&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carrom.org&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By this rule the game would be won along with the bonus for the Queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastEditorUserId="7843" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T16:25:28.887" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T16:25:28.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2014-08-15T16:24:38.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Avoid this situation by having everyone submit a public key signature on all of their moves, which can easily be verified by the other players.  Implementing this with pen and paper is left as an exercise for the reader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T16:24:38.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18310" CreationDate="2014-08-15T16:47:24.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's related to the 'secret agreements' with partner in this way -   Dummy has  KJ.   Declarer leads toward it,  and has a the AQ guess.  If you hesitate as if thinking of hopping up with the ACE, declarer will be fooled ( what else could you be thinking of?) but your partner won't , he's looking at the ACE !!     Similarly, if dummy J43 of trumps and declarer, holding AK1076, leads the J  and his right hand opponent hesitates as if he was thinking of covering with the Queen ( what else could he be thinking of?) then declare will be fooled but your partner can't be - he's looking at the Queen!.    You were never at risk for fooling your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8292" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T16:47:24.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18609" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-15T18:34:49.720" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played through the first scenario of Sentinels Tactics, Baron Blade vs Tachyon/Legacy/Ra, where he is trying to blow up the power plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baron Blade got totally destroyed, he only managed to kill 2 of the plants, and that was when we were playing wrong and allowing him to attack the plants from higher ground. Once we fixed that, he was mostly useless. Should he be trying to avoid even being touched with teleport? Should he be trying to incapacitate the heros? It seems like fighting is a losing battle for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hP3pcnJpjgI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;watched the demo game&lt;/a&gt; for the scenario in which Baron Blade won, but it seemed that the heroes played really poorly. The heroes were running away from baron blade, never using aim, and doing attacks that lowered movement (which might be good in other scenarios, but in this one, baron blade can teleport to get large distances anyway, so it's probably useless).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T17:47:55.273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T17:47:55.273" Title="What tactics should Baron Blade use in the Power Splicing scenario?" Tags="|sentinels-tactics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18611" CreationDate="2014-08-15T20:09:37.180" Score="8" ViewCount="19826" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the setup the players are required to draw 9 cards to infect the starting cities before the game starts. What if for example no red disease card is drawn? Is the red disease already eradicated before we start the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8297" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-15T20:26:43.803" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T22:58:53.620" Title="Can a disease be eradicated at the beginning of the game?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18610" CreationDate="2014-08-15T20:20:45.033" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a disease with no cubes at the beginning of the game is not eradicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a disease to be eradicated, it must be &lt;em&gt;cured&lt;/em&gt; in addition to there being no cubes left of its color. At the beginning of the game, it is clearly not cured. If you subsequently draw an infection card for that color, you still add a cube to that city. If you manage to discover the cure before that happens, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; it's eradicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Various snippets from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; cube of a &lt;em&gt;cured disease&lt;/em&gt; is removed from the board, this disease &#xA;  is &lt;em&gt;eradicated&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[when discovering a cure] If no cubes of this color are on the board, this disease is now &lt;em&gt;eradicated&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To infect a city, place 1 disease cube matching its color onto the city, unless this disease has been &lt;em&gt;eradicated&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T22:58:53.620" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T22:58:53.620" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18613" CreationDate="2014-08-15T18:47:34.200" Score="8" ViewCount="2812" Body="&lt;p&gt;A long time ago I bought Steve Jackson Games' &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_Wars&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Car Wars&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;(1st ed., &lt;strong&gt;1983&lt;/strong&gt; release) in &lt;em&gt;pocket box&lt;/em&gt; format(like the article image).&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Here's what you can read at the back:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drive Offensively!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;He triggered the rear guns once more. A direct hit! The blue car skidded as the driver lost control - then flipped and caught fire.&#xA;That would teach HIM not to tailgate...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CAR WARS is a game of the freeways of the future - where the right of&#xA;way goes to the biggest guns. Players choose their vehicules -&#xA;complete with weapons, armor, power plants, suspension, and even body&#xA;style. Then they take them out on the road - to come home &amp;quot;aces&amp;quot;, or&#xA;to crash and burn. A highly realistic grid system controls movement.&#xA;If a player character survives, his abilities improve, and he can&#xA;accumulate money to buy bigger and better cars. Advanced rules let&#xA;players design their own cars (and trucks and cycles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing time 30 minutes and up. Any number can play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly I've played the game &lt;em&gt;only once&lt;/em&gt; when it was introduced to me in grade school&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. Now I'm reading in the &lt;em&gt;Car Wars Compendium&lt;/em&gt;, 2nd Edition (1990-1991), in the getting started section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]The game can be played solo, but is more fun with an opponent. It&#xA;is probably best with 4 to 6 players. A game with over 8 players can&#xA;take a very long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how would you go about playing this &lt;em&gt;solo&lt;/em&gt;? Is there some &lt;em&gt;material/scenario&lt;/em&gt; which focuses on solo play? If there is no prescribed way of playing this solo, how would you &lt;em&gt;repurpose&lt;/em&gt; the game so that I could play it solo?&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7K60B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;1. Note this is not about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GURPS_Autoduel&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GURPS Autoduel&lt;/a&gt;. It predates it and is a standalone product which is not standardized for the &lt;em&gt;system&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;2. I remember very fondly &lt;a href=&quot;http://carwars.opentools.org/#showStock&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;choosing parts&lt;/a&gt; for the car and making sure there wasn't too much weight for the body/suspension. From what I remember we had this mission of getting hold a an important piece of machinery/engine in a city setting and being attacked by a helicopter(!)(thanks to &lt;em&gt;Serge with the kite suspended at the ceiling&lt;/em&gt; older buddy of my childhood and his inspiring mastery of &lt;em&gt;Knuckle Joe&lt;/em&gt; - Seibu Kaihatsu, 1985, for introducing me to the game).&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8301" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-01-24T18:32:00.177" Title="How do you play a solo game of Steve Jackson Games' Car Wars?" Tags="|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18612" CreationDate="2014-08-15T19:35:59.877" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solo play of Car Wars breaks down into 4 discrete activities:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vehicle Design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;movement practice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play of automatic opponent scenarios&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;playing multiple sides&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play of paragraph driven scenarios&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TurboFire play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Vehicle Design as Solo Play&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, this was the number one way to waste time with Car Wars. I designed about 50x more vehicles than I ever used in play. And I used a LOT of vehicles in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Movement Practice&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends and I would often draw an obstacle course on a single sheet of paper - usually letter or legal, sometimes 11x17&amp;quot;. And then see how fast we could get a vehicle through. We'd each do this on our own time, and later compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did a lot of this when I first got Boat Wars - the Hovercraft rules needed to be better written. I also did a bunch of this when I first got Truck Stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Automated Opponent Scenarios&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few scenarios from Autoduel Quarterly were one vehicle against a prepared course with automated firing rules for the emplaced defenses. (&lt;em&gt;Maniac&lt;/em&gt;, in ADQ 1-4, was one of the best.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Playing Multiple Sides&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was (and still is) a classic wargaming trope to test play games by playing both sides. In a deterministic game, like chess or checkers, it's pointless, but once you add randomization, you can have a very good time playing both sides of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for car wars, this is a prerequisite for solo play of certain modules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Paragraph Driven Scenarios&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been several paragraph-driven scenarios released for Car Wars. These are very much in the same mode as the ones for &lt;em&gt;Tunnels and Trolls&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;The Fantasy Trip&lt;/em&gt;; they actually work best when there is a second player, but they work well enough solo, and the intended mode is solo-play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best known is &lt;em&gt;Convoy&lt;/em&gt;, an SJG product, which was adapted from a GM'd adventure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second best, released by Task Force Games, was &lt;em&gt;Hell On Wheels&lt;/em&gt;. Far less well known are the two other solo modules from TFG, &lt;em&gt;The Gauntlet&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Street Fighter&lt;/em&gt;. These three were part of a line called &amp;quot;AutoVentures.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All four of these presume the player will play both sides in the actual combats, but they also specify the general tactics of the encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 3 from TFG also include an alternate &amp;quot;Quick Combat System&amp;quot; which made them quite playable without setting up the map and counters. (It also works for some of the encounters in Convoy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;TurboFire&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;TurboFire&lt;/em&gt; was one of two GM-adventures for Car Wars in the AutoVentures line. It lacked a paragraph mode, but included an abstraction for racing. In and of itself, it was not intended for solo-play... but since it abstracted out thousands of choices into a few die-rolls, it allowed race-dueling to become a solo-play opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In TurboFire, the players are using the TurboFire racing rules to generate a series of encounters, which then get played out per the restrictions within the module. These generally are short battles, given the harsh restrictions in that module's setting. This combination means that it's pretty easy and quick to resolve each one, and one can fairly easily play both sides, since the tactics are obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've used this mode with Cars, Big Rigs, and Microplanes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" OwnerDisplayName="aramis" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-15T19:35:59.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18615" CreationDate="2014-08-16T03:56:32.493" Score="0" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been poring over the Comprehensive Rules v.2 for MLP:CCG and I cannot find anything in the rules that implies that troublemakers prevent single problem faceoffs.  It's in the base rules, but the rules for troublemakers have changed significantly enough that I don't know the answer to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I confront only one problem, and the opponent could confront the same problem except that they are blocked by my troublemaker: do I simply score the problem, or is there a faceoff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FAQ for the comp rules says that &quot;troublemakers only prevent confronting the problem not faceoffs&quot;, which seems to contradict the basic CN rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8303" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T14:12:04.650" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T18:44:30.953" Title="Do troublemakers prevent single problem faceoffs?" Tags="|my-little-pony-ccg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18614" CreationDate="2014-08-16T04:11:06.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://enter-play.com/products/MLP_CCG_Comprehensive_Rules_v2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;, rule 611.4 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a player confronts a Problem, that player scores a point. &lt;strong&gt;If an opponent also meets their confront requirements for that Problem (611.3), there will be a Problem Faceoff at that Problem.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And rule 611.3e says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player can’t confront a Problem if there is an opposing face-up Troublemaker or a face-up Troublemaker with Villain at that Problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.4's reference back to 611.3 implies that there would be no faceoff (in accordance with the basic rules, whew), as the same confront requirements (611.3e) are needed unless there is a double problem faceoff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8303" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-08-16T18:44:30.953" LastActivityDate="2014-08-16T18:44:30.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18622" CreationDate="2014-08-16T10:43:32.713" Score="5" ViewCount="11046" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two questions related to purchasing cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When can you purchase a card? Is it only during your turn or you can just go ahead and buy cards as long as you have cubes even if it's another player's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When does the card take effect? If you purchase a card during your turn, can you already use it on that turn or do you have to wait for your next turn? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8305" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T02:32:56.240" Title="King of Tokyo: When can you buy a card and when can you start to use them?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-16T10:48:19.953" Score="6" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game of power grid with 6 players using the map of Italy, with one zone removed. In step 2, I had power plants to produce electricity for 11 (6-4-1) houses with cheap resources, and built 13 houses, preparing to end the game (14 houses) once a suitable plant is in the market. However, one of the players had plants to power 15 houses, so I didn't buy a 4-house plant in the market, fearing that once I bought it, he would build up to 15 houses immediately to win the game (he had 11 houses at that time), and waited for better plants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards, step 3 was entered. My player order was 2 at that time. I bought a 6-house plant, replacing the 1-house plant, preparing to end the game with 16 houses, fully powered. However, the other players had filled in all the cities in the map immediately, with no more space left, making me unable to build the 3 additional houses to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a rare scenario? Can this happen when everyone plays the game normally? Should I instead try to end the game earlier when I already had 13 houses?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8304" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-08-17T20:00:10.770" LastActivityDate="2019-04-24T02:42:53.160" Title="How do I deal with or avoid a full map?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-17T06:00:08.647" Score="3" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teysa%2C%20Orzhov%20Scion&quot;&gt;Teysa, Orzhov Scion&lt;/a&gt; along with two other &amp;quot;white and black&amp;quot; creatures (in order to remove another creature from the game) - do I still get my 2 spirit tokens from the other two sacrificed white and black creatures, even though Teysa as well was sacrificed at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it that when Teysa is sacrificed along with the other two, its 2nd ability doesn't count anymore?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8311" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T06:12:50.687" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T13:12:16.620" Title="Can Teysa, Orzhov Scion sacrifice itself and still use its 2nd ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18619" CreationDate="2014-08-17T06:08:19.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will still get the 2 spirit tokens. This is because when creatures die (are put into the graveyard from the battlefield), the game checks what the state of things was just prior to the creatures leaving the battlefield to see if there is anything that needs to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. &lt;strong&gt;However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T06:08:19.310" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18640" CreationDate="2014-08-17T07:36:12.317" Score="13" ViewCount="2468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Staying in an old farmhouse in France we have found this game.&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6MEUE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown game image 1&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M6vl3.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown game image 2&quot;&gt;&#xA;There is a 4x4 board with 8 black and 8 white pieces. Does anyone know what this game is called and more importantly how to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1783" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T21:06:28.197" Title="Identify board game on 4x4 board with 8 black and 8 white pieces" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18616" CreationDate="2014-08-17T12:13:20.730" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iellogames.com/download/KOT-US-Rules-low.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Purchasing Cards:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Turn Overview&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rolling and rerolling the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Resolving the dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Buying cards (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;End of your turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can only buy cards during your turn, and only after rolling and resolving the dice. One exception to this is if you have the Opportunist card, in which case you can buy newly revealed cards even when it's not your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using Cards:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards marked &lt;em&gt;Discard&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monsters immediately resolve these then discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards marked &lt;em&gt;Keep&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monsters keep these cards for the remainder of the game (sometimes the card will indicate it is discarded under certain circumstances.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Keep&lt;/em&gt; cards generally indicate on them when they can be used (e.g. when attacking, when you are attacked, at the start of your turn). A &lt;em&gt;Keep&lt;/em&gt; card that does something at the end of your turn can be used on the turn that you bought it (e.g. Solar Powered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T12:13:20.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18621" CreationDate="2014-08-17T12:35:33.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gobblet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gobblet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardspace.net/gobblet/english/gobblet_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players (2 only) alternate placing (and then shifting already placed) pieces on the board attempting to be first align 4 &lt;em&gt;gobblets&lt;/em&gt; (ie pieces) in a row,  either horizontally ,vertically, or diagonally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players start with only the 3 largest pieces each, and larger pieces can &lt;em&gt;gobble-up&lt;/em&gt; smaller ones (of either the opponent or it's own colour).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="12408" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T21:06:28.197" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T21:06:28.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18626" CreationDate="2014-08-17T14:50:41.007" Score="3" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose partner bids one of a (five card) major. Normally you need three of the suit to raise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But expert &lt;a href=&quot;http://richmondbridgeassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/bergensecrets.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Marty Bergen&lt;/a&gt; has opined that if your suit has four honors, you can bid it as if were one card longer. Mr. Bergen also wrote, &quot;When partner promises a six-card suit, you can support him with a singleton honor.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I have KJ (or KT or QJ) of my partner's suit, I'a going to play him for a suit with two more honors: AQxxx, ATxxx, or even QTxxx. In that case, partner and I would have four (possibly five) honors between us. And in the worst case (partner has xxxxx, we'd have two honors). So I'd raise to two with the aforementioned trump holding plus a side king, because I've &quot;borrowed&quot; an extra (small) trump for my bid, based on my interpretation of Bergen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable interpretation of Marty Bergen's dictums? Is this a reasonable move to make even if you don't always agree with Marty Bergen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-08-17T18:02:38.477" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T18:13:14.970" Title="Can you raise a one bid with only two &quot;filler&quot; honors in a suit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18624" CreationDate="2014-08-17T17:48:17.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a myriad problems with this approach when added to a non-Bergen system, particularly if partner is not in on the new &lt;em&gt;agreement&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The missing trump is roughly equivalent to missing over 1.5 points. Thus the bid should not be made with a minimum raise as you suggest, because the missing trump has made it a sub-minimum raise. Thus only with 8-9 HCP should you consider making the bid, and these are exactly the hands where you would like to accept a further action from partner &lt;strong&gt;but no longer can&lt;/strong&gt; due to the missing trump.  Bidding this way will in many cases result in you playing a 5-2 major fit instead of 4-4, which traditionally is held to play almost a trick worse on average. In other cases you will be forced to play the 10-trick major suit game instead of a better 9-trick notrump game - remember the missing trump is strengthening either an alternative trump suit or a no-trump stopper, or both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bergen specializes in playing a very eccentric style that emphasizes low-point high-fit contracts, especially in the majors. This style of play requires a strong understanding of advanced declarer play concepts by both partners, as well as a very good system agreement to avoid playing inferior contracts. While this approach works well for Bergen, there is a reason that few other &lt;strong&gt;top&lt;/strong&gt; players choose to play the same approach.  Either play the whole system, or recognize that Bergen's style is actually not suitable for the game played by you and your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T17:57:03.027" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T17:57:03.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18624" CreationDate="2014-08-17T17:59:03.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly it's reasonable, whether or not you are a Bergen acolyte. But it ought to be a rare hand where raising with only two trump is more attractive than the alternatives. These situations come up more often in competition. For instance, if the auction started&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1C) 1S (2C)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would be happy to raise to 2S with something like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AQ&#xA;Kxx&#xA;xxxxx&#xA;xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with Pieter that if you have fewer trump than partner expects you ought to be near a maximum in high cards. This point was made many years ago by Edgar Kaplan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T17:59:03.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18616" CreationDate="2014-08-17T18:12:43.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Normally*, you may only purchase cards during the &lt;code&gt;Buying cards&lt;/code&gt; phase of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; turn, i.e. after you've finished rolling your dice and have resolved the effects (e.g. gotten your energy, healed your health, attacked or scored your victory points from the dice).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;* I say &quot;normally&quot; because if you have the &lt;code&gt;Opportunist&lt;/code&gt; card, you actually have the option of purchasing a new card as soon as it is revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the card is a &lt;code&gt;Discard&lt;/code&gt; card, its effects happen immediately (before any other action), so you don't get to choose to use it or to wait or keep it - a &lt;code&gt;Discard&lt;/code&gt; card produces its effect/ability as soon as purchased. If the card is a &lt;code&gt;Keep&lt;/code&gt; card, it comes into play immediately. For example, if you buy &lt;code&gt;Dedicated News Team&lt;/code&gt;, and immediately after in the same turn, you purchase another card (supposing you have enough energy), you will instantly score the +1 Victory Point for the purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8308" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T18:12:43.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-17T18:42:13.923" Score="10" ViewCount="2116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that black has been eradicated. Can yellow come into the black cities and infect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8312" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T19:08:26.270" Title="In Pandemic, can yellow infect black, after black has been eradicated?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18629" CreationDate="2014-08-17T19:08:19.490" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Eradication affects the color of cubes, not the color of cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color of the cities tells you what color is on the corresponding infection and player cards, so cities will certainly tend to have only cubes of that color, but they can potentially have cubes of any color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eradicating a given color disease simply stops cubes of that color from being added to the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To infect a city, place 1 disease cube matching its color onto the city, unless this disease has been eradicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the rules never say that eradication stops, say, the yellow disease spilling over into black from an outbreak. This isn't terribly likely (you have to have an outbreak on the border) and also isn't usually that awful (unless you're running out of that color of cubes), but it can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T19:08:19.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18629" CreationDate="2014-08-17T19:08:26.270" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eradicating a disease means that new cubes of that color won't get onto the board.&#xA;It doesn't stop outbreaks of other colors from spreading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you cure Ebola doesn't mean people become immune to West Nile Virus...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2014-08-17T19:08:26.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18632" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-08-18T01:57:16.323" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T01:57:16.323" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T01:57:16.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18633" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-08-18T01:57:16.323" Score="0" Body="Mundus Novus is a game where 2 to 6 people assume the role of powerful ship owners in the 16th century competing to become the first to gather a fortune in doubloons or commodities brought from the Americas. Players will draw commodities from a deck of cards, trade them among themselves and finally sell them for doubloons or new ships, warehouses and agreements of cooperation with important traders and explorers." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T07:50:10.043" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T07:50:10.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18617" CreationDate="2014-08-18T06:14:02.267" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all the cities on the map have been filled in (35 cities in 5 regions), then SOMEONE will have built 14 cities and so the game ends -- 13 cities each for 6 players is only 78 of the 105 available places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not necessary for a player to be able to power all 14 cities -- they just have to build them to trigger the end of the game.  The player who powers the most cities at the end of that turn (even if it is less than 14) wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T06:14:02.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14441" CreationDate="2014-08-18T07:58:27.507" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;During casual games with my friends we draw 3 cards during our draw step instead of 1 because that's how my brother taught me to play Yu-Gi-Oh (we played that before I found mtg) and it sort of transferred over to MTG in my head all my friends thought it was better then only drawing 1 so we use that.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However if you play in an official game then that's a big no-no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8317" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T07:58:27.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18068" CreationDate="2014-08-18T11:06:04.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So after playing this a lot more times and going through the rules as well, this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Winning an investigation icon gives you one success token immediately.&#xA;Winning the story based on the skills of your committed characters gives you another, and finally, if at the end there are no opposing characters on the story, you get another success token for winning unopposed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T11:06:04.517" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-08-18T11:06:04.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18637" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18643" CreationDate="2014-08-18T11:50:52.720" Score="0" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'm willing to dive into MtG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just ordered Deck Builder's Toolkit from our local club, is that going to be enough for building at least average beginner deck? What my best options to expand my collection from this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8318" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T15:53:19.953" Title="Collect cards for beginner deck" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-08-18T18:04:19.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18600" CreationDate="2014-08-18T12:23:13.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Character Add-On pack adds 4 more character classes and additional monsters, weapons, and equipment. It allows you to play with up to 6 people (as opposed to the 4-player limit without it). You &lt;i&gt;don't&lt;/i&gt; need to reserve those character classes for games with more than 4; use them in any session you want. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the cards are indeed meant to be added to the main set, so go ahead and shuffle them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T12:23:13.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18538" CreationDate="2014-08-18T12:27:27.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Storm of Souls rulebook says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an Event card flips into the Center Row, immediately move it to the Event Zone on the board, and then replace it in the Center Row.&#xA;  [...]&#xA;  If a new Event flips, the old Event immediately goes to the Void and the new Event becomes the current event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The keyword is &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;. Therefore, if Souls Unbound enters the Center Row right after you kill Mephit (or any banishing Monster), you can only banish Heroes and Constructs from the Center Row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The iOS version of the game follows the same logic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8319" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T12:27:27.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18621" CreationDate="2014-08-18T14:15:38.870" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;That looks like a set of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarto_(board_game)&quot;&gt;Quarto&lt;/a&gt; to me. There are eight dark/eight light pieces, eight tall/eight short pieces, eight round/eight square pieces and eight pointed/eight flat pieces. Usually the fourth attribute is hollow/solid, but the game works in exactly the same way with pointed/flat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To play the game start with all the pieces off the board, and the first player chooses a piece for the second to place. After it's placed, the second player chooses a piece for the first player to place. Play alternates in this way until a player places a piece that creates a set of four in a straight line that all share a characteristic (e.g. four round pieces in a row). The first player to make four in a row wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T14:15:38.870" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18642" CreationDate="2014-08-18T14:34:50.583" Score="8" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine a a tabuleau which contains both Contact Specialist and Drop Ships, and my hand contains Reptilian Uplift Race and at least one other card, or more generally any other setup which contains both a red to black conversion ability and a total positive military strength in the tableau and a military world in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there ever a situation (including cards from any official expansion) in which it would be advantageous to use the red to black conversion ability to settle the military world, thus spending one or more cards, as opposed to simply conquering the military world?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2014-08-18T15:27:39.803" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T13:50:57.300" Title="Is it ever a good strategy to discard cards in Race for the Galaxy?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18641" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:10:22.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only situation that this happens in practice that you want to discard for the sake of reducing your hand size is with the Brink of War card &lt;strong&gt;Retrofit and Salvage&lt;/strong&gt;, which allows a player to take all cards discarded at end of turn by other players into hand.  If you preemptively throw cards away to avoid discarding, then you won't be forced to give an opponent more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Round end: After discarding, take all other players' discards into your hand and keep them&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of incenting players to use peace rather than military, there is also &lt;strong&gt;Pan-Galactic Mediator&lt;/strong&gt; in Brink of War that rewards you for settling worlds with military to peace settle abilities.  If you have that card in play, you might want to use the peaceful approach to get the reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also imagine a hypothetical situation in which you discard to avoid claiming the &quot;First to Discard at end of Round&quot; goal, so that another player will chase the goal and take a phase that you want in a multiplayer game.  Such a situation might occur if you are coaxing your opponent to call trade when you have Trade League.  But I've played thousands of games and I've never seen that happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="322" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T15:10:22.703" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18637" CreationDate="2014-08-18T15:53:19.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a lot worse than the Deckbuilders toolkit for starting out, you will be surprised as well how quickly a collection can start to grow even just buying the odd booster or as said above taking part in local drafts or events. Your best bet for good advice about this would be at your local games store or even better at your local Friday Night Magic. They will welcome a new player and have lots of advice to give, tips, point you in the right direction etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T15:53:19.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15284" CreationDate="2014-08-18T20:39:08.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, note that you can't use powers from the first world you just settled or conquered to conquer the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2014-08-18T20:39:08.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18493" CreationDate="2014-08-19T03:11:27.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think of it this way, in Diplomacy the goal is to win by using every tool in at your disposal against your fellow players. However the communication with the judge is different and needs to be truthful (not counting submitting multiple set of orders that supersede each other)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is one thing to deceive other players with fake orders, and letting others get their hands on &quot;someone else's&quot; orders it is another thing to do with the judge and can lead to issues. For example how would the rest of the group react if Germany submits fake orders for France that allow Germany to easily take more territory and gain in power? Most groups would have some serious problems with that and it would most likely lead to a lot of problems for the judge and the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the orders where just faked for the other players while they where making their plans then that is a different story and can be a very good idea. But on the flip side if you get caught doing this it can lead to you not being trusted again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T03:11:27.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18649" CreationDate="2014-08-19T03:53:52.187" Score="4" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Reloaded expansion for standard Munchkin adds High and Dark modifiers to your class. If I get the High card without already having a race, I become a High Human. If I then get a Race card such as Elf, do I become a Dark Elf? Or do I lose the High card because I changed races?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T12:14:21.440" Title="Do I lose the &quot;High&quot; or &quot;Dark&quot; modifer if I gain a race?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18648" CreationDate="2014-08-19T08:21:06.813" Score="4" ViewCount="838" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18175/when-does-heroic-trigger&quot;&gt;When does Heroic trigger?&lt;/a&gt; I think the answer is yes, but I'd just like to double check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAkroan%20Crusader%5d&quot;&gt;Akroan Crusader&lt;/a&gt; and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNyxborn%20Rollicker%5d&quot;&gt;Nyxborn Rollicker&lt;/a&gt; for its bestow cost so my stack looks like (LIFO):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heroic trigger (token creature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rollicker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent then casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDisperse%5d&quot;&gt;Disperse&lt;/a&gt; on my crusader:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disperse targeting crusader&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heroic trigger (token creature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rollicker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's the final play, so after the stack resolves the creatures I should have are a 1/1 red soldier with haste (token) and a Nyxborn Rollicker. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T04:06:02.287" Title="Does a heroic trigger still resolve if the heroic creature is gone?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18647" CreationDate="2014-08-19T08:26:54.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Abilities still resolve if the creature that created them is gone*, or cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torch%20Fiend&quot;&gt;Torch Fiend&lt;/a&gt; would be a little bit useless. This is because of the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case: your Akroan Crusader gets targeted by a spell, and puts a triggered ability on the stack. Even if the Crusader goes away, the ability still resolves. Then your Nyxborn Rollicker enters the battlefield as a creature instead, since its target is gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* Other stuff can make it fail to resolve, such as if the ability has targets and all its targets are now illegal - see &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 608.2b&lt;/a&gt;. But &lt;em&gt;the originating creature dying&lt;/em&gt; won't do anything to prevent the ability from resolving.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-26T04:06:02.287" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T04:06:02.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18646" CreationDate="2014-08-19T12:14:21.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both High and Dark say: &quot;Add this card to a race card&quot;. In my reading this means that you can't be a High Human, and so the question is not applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7131" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T12:14:21.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2014-08-19T12:19:07.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the knight has a special abilities that the other pieces don't have. It can jump over other pieces. Also, unlike the other pieces it does not move in one line but I prefer bishops because knights can only move three squares at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8328" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T12:19:07.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18653" CreationDate="2014-08-19T22:41:59.237" Score="9" ViewCount="5631" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm simulating Monopoly with a computer program and came across this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll: 4 + 4 = 8 (first double)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moved from &quot;Tennessee Avenue&quot; to &quot;Atlantic Avenue&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll: 2 + 2 = 4 (second double)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moved from &quot;Atlantic Avenue&quot; to &quot;Go To Jail&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JAILED!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In jail!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll: 6 + 6 = 12 (third double)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;FREED FROM JAIL!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 DOUBLES!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;JAILED!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 doubles were indeed rolled in a row, so the poor fella was jailed once again. I'm assuming this is not how it should be though.... how should this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8330" LastEditorUserId="9843" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T10:07:50.450" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T10:07:50.450" Title="Odd Monopoly situation: rolling doubles to get out of jail is ALSO third double in a row!" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18652" CreationDate="2014-08-19T23:06:22.723" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;[y]our turn ends when you are sent to jail&quot;. So in that situation, having landed on the &quot;Go To Jail&quot; space, the player gets put in jail and his turn ends so he has no opportunity to roll the third time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-08-19T23:06:22.723" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18669" CreationDate="2014-08-19T23:16:54.320" Score="2" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assumed that I can only play on my own buildings.  Are you allowed to play on others' buildings as well in Belfort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7546" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T13:20:38.223" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T21:02:15.400" Title="Can I play on other people's buildings in Belfort?" Tags="|belfort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14152" CreationDate="2014-08-20T02:30:33.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems I might've misunderstood &lt;a href=&quot;http://download.ludically.com/ArchipelagoSite/Archipelago.Rulebook.EN.web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;. The correct answer, I think, is &lt;strong&gt;you can't&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In page 8, you read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...]each player plays one round by placing one of his action discs (AD) on the action wheel and performing the corresponding action. Players continue playing rounds until all players have used up their action discs or cannot play anything; then they proceed to phase 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The concept of &lt;em&gt;round&lt;/em&gt; is important here. A player has a round &quot;until all players have used up their action disks or cannot play anything&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In page 12, you read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player can use one port or market during each of his rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you can only use market or ports once per round if you have a round. Therefore, you can't use them after your action disks have finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, this is extensible to evolution cards (page 14):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player can use one evolution card during each of his rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T16:42:26.320" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T16:42:26.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18666" CreationDate="2014-08-20T03:24:04.860" Score="7" ViewCount="566" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Bohnanza with some family, my brother-in-law kept trying to negotiate three-party trades. I felt like this was against the rules but as long as everyone's trades were planted at the end I let him get away with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mom, I'll give you a red bean if you give sis a soy bean. And sis you give me a garden bean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this against the rules? Should I have stopped him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T23:53:11.867" Title="Brokering three-party deals in Bohnanza" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18658" CreationDate="2014-08-20T03:34:18.550" Score="2" ViewCount="2360" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to allow free rent agreements as part of a real estate transaction in Monopoly?  Specifically I'd like to purchase a property and sell two additional properties but only if both parties in the transaction receive 'free rent' as long as we own the properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8332" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T05:32:25.310" Title="Can You Create Free Rent Agreements in Monopoly" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-20T13:21:09.440" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18657" CreationDate="2014-08-20T05:32:25.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can offer a rent free situation by promising the player that you will never claim rent.  As rent is only ever paid when the owner of a property claims it, you can in effect offer free rent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to enforce this though and you must treat this as nothing more than a gentleperson's agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T05:32:25.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18660" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:20:10.680" Score="2" ViewCount="2977" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leviathan&quot;&gt;Leviathan&lt;/a&gt; (and we know he comes into play tapped) and have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Puppeteer&quot;&gt;Puppeteer&lt;/a&gt; or something out to untap him, am I prevented from sacrificing the two islands and attacking the turn he came into play? In other words, if a creature comes into play tapped and you untap it, does it still have summoning sickness preventing it from attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8333" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T13:24:38.240" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T03:46:07.243" Title="Do creatures who come into play tapped have summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:23:31.907" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18660" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:53:33.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it has summoning sickness like every other creature. If you want to attack with your Leviathan the turn it enters the battlefield you'll also need to give it haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T08:53:33.933" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18660" CreationDate="2014-08-20T08:55:03.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you untap your creature it will still have summoning sickness. According to Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that your creature has 'summoning sickness' from the first turn you control that creature until your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I misunderstood this rule a bit, I thought that a creature summoned during opponent's turn (creature with &lt;code&gt;Flash&lt;/code&gt; ability for example) would have summoning sickness until their controller's subsequent turn, but &lt;strong&gt;summoning sickness is gone as soon as creature is on the battlefield at his controller's upkeep.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8188" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T03:25:07.057" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T03:25:07.057" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18664" CreationDate="2014-08-20T11:03:23.190" Score="3" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game of Power Grid, someone we play with regularly insisted on a rule that you're not allowed to purchase a &quot;lower&quot; technology power plant than you already have.  e.g. if you have 13,17,25 as your power plants, you can't buy 24 or lower if they come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He also insisted that if a player didn't win their power plant auction that the market isn't refreshed before they got another chance to bid.  e.g. Player A bids cost, player B bids cost + 1 and player A decides not to bid higher.  In this scenario player A only gets to choose from the 3 remaining plants next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question: are these official rules?  I have scanned the rule book and didn't see either, but may have missed them... I also found them quite hard to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7983" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T11:10:11.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T13:47:44.113" Title="Is buying older power plants than what you have disallowed?" Tags="|house-rules|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18663" CreationDate="2014-08-20T13:42:37.863" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;someone we play with regularly insisted on a rule that you're not allowed to purchase a &quot;lower&quot; technology power plant than you already have. e.g. if you have 13,17,25 as your power plants, you can't buy 24 or lower if they come up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect.  You can buy any power plant that is in the market (the lowest four numbered plants).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if a player didn't win their power plant auction that the market isn't refreshed before they got another chance to bid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incorrect.  After any power plant is purchased or destroyed, the market is immediately refreshed and realigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 3, section 2b (this is retyped and not copy-pasted, so there may be typos)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player chooses one power plant from the actual market (top row) and then makes a bid to purchase it.  [...] He pays his highest bid to the bank and takes the power plant.  Players then immediately draw a new card to replace the card sold and place the new card in the market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastEditorUserId="3493" LastEditDate="2014-08-20T13:47:44.113" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T13:47:44.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18641" CreationDate="2014-08-20T13:50:57.300" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the scenarios rrenaud mentions, this can also be of benefit if you have &lt;strong&gt;Galactic Scavengers&lt;/strong&gt;. This is another card from &lt;em&gt;Brink of War&lt;/em&gt;, and it allows you to save one card from your payment for developments and black/civilian worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could choose to settle by card payment instead of by military strength in order to save a card for later, temporarily reducing your hand size so you don't have to discard at the end of the round. It's highly situational, but it could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8325" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T13:50:57.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18656" CreationDate="2014-08-20T13:52:57.757" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;All trades must be between the active player and a single player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, any traded beans must be immediately planted, so you cannot receive a bean in trade and then trade away that same bean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best you can do is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give your red bean to Mom (you are allowed to trade something for&#xA;nothing)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sister gives you a garden bean&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;when it is your mother or your sister's turn, hope that they complete the trade; note that there is no obligation to do so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T13:52:57.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18368" CreationDate="2014-08-20T17:05:39.870" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nowhere mentionning you cannot use the character's power against the &quot;boss&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would find it rather hard to believe you can use the statuette that reduces the boss's damage to harvey to 1 but couldnt save the 1shot power versus the &quot;boss puzzle&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anti-climactic yes, but then again what's the point of wasting a good power to get a 1shot use if you cannot use it when it really counts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T17:05:39.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14152" CreationDate="2014-08-20T20:58:20.290" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot use the ports or markets if you have no action disks left to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way to think about this is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Place one of your action disks on the board and take that action&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Before or After you place your action disk)&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use one Evolution card&lt;/strong&gt; (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Before or After you place your action disk)&lt;/em&gt; &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pay one coin to use a port or a market&lt;/strong&gt; (optional)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use each market or port you own once per round, and only one per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you don't have any action markers, you won't be able to use a port/market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T20:58:20.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18654" CreationDate="2014-08-20T21:02:15.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct, you may only play on the buildings that you have built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; play on a &lt;strong&gt;guild&lt;/strong&gt; that has been purchased by another player, paying that player 1 coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T21:02:15.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18675" CreationDate="2014-08-20T22:35:34.547" Score="0" ViewCount="11466" Body="&lt;p&gt;From personal experience I tend to draw mythic rare cards about one in five purchases when buying individually packaged boosters at Target, Walmart, etc, like the ones in this picture:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TgzO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8TgzOl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a Dragon&amp;#39;s Maze booster packed in cardboard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In booster boxes I have never gotten more than 6 mythics. This led me to think about this for a moment. If Wizards can profit more from individually packed boosters, wouldn't they want to have people draw mythics more often from them? My reasoning is that a non-serious gamer would not buy a booster box, but would be more likely to buy individual packs. If this person gets mythics with just a few packs, that would be a good incentive to come back for more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is this: Are the odds of drawing mythics greater when purchasing individually packed booster card packs over booster boxes? Has anyone ever compared the odds? (I'm not quite ready to shell out $1000 to find out.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8342" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T04:59:51.117" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T14:41:10.550" Title="Are the odds of drawing mythics greater when purchasing individually packaged boosters over booster boxes?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18582" CreationDate="2014-08-20T22:38:01.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think the capital D in &quot;Dwelling&quot; has any significance.  In the rule book &lt;em&gt;Dwelling&lt;/em&gt; is always capitalized.  I would think that you could build any of the Dwellings.  If you couldn't, I think there would be a specific explanation in the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are 6 different types of Dwellings.  Every Dwelling provides room for one or two dwarfs. (P. 15)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7546" LastActivityDate="2014-08-20T22:38:01.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2014-08-21T04:26:33.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there's no difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The foil boosters purchased individually from your Friendly Local Gaming Store's shelf are exactly the same as the ones in the booster box, except they unpack them from those boxes first and put them on the shelves. You have an equal chance of getting a mythic from any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for boosters wrapped in cardboard, they say &quot;New look, same booster pack!&quot; - if it's the same booster pack, it should be the same again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have better luck getting Mythics from one kind of booster than the other, you may either have been fairly lucky in that regard, or you're just perceiving it that way and really there's no difference and you haven't noticed it because you haven't been recording things rigorously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-21T09:13:18.073" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T09:13:18.073" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18671" CreationDate="2014-08-21T14:41:10.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only differences between single packs out of a booster box at a LGS and blister packs at a big box store are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The blister packs can't really benefit from mapping&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; like the boxes for some sets can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People can more easily steal cards out of the blister pack and repack them with terrible cards not even in the same set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number 2 is especially true if the blister pack comes from Walmart, who have a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; generous return policy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; MtG packs have a 1/8 chance to contain a mythic (roughly, depending on the size of the set), regardless of where the pack comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Mapping&quot; a set means determining how the cards in the set are printed and distributed (a process that is generally crowdsourced). Once the set is mapped, one can potentially open a small number of boosters from a box and from there determine what every rare in the box is, and which packs have them. Mapping does not generally cover foils, however. Wizards has spent great effort to prevent the capability of mapping sets, and these days while it is still possible, it is generally unprofitable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By &quot;normal,&quot; I mean to exclude things like special packs used for prereleases such as the guild-specific packs in the Return to Ravnica block. I am not certain on their mythic distribution, so I'll not comment on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T14:41:10.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="167" CreationDate="2014-08-21T19:02:41.330" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I'm jaded from online play but I have found that reputation seems to matter little online (in person it makes a big difference). I have literally been the victim of 1st turn lies and betrayals in every online game I've played. I believe I've had about a 3 to one ratio of unkept vs kept early move promises. But as far as can tell no one seems less likely to work with these players because of it. The reason is simple: they are all doing the same thing and expect that everyone is. So it seems everyone is backstabbing near constantly and the only consideration seems to be who can offer immediate payback. If you can't offer much payback (especially central powers early), you get carved up quick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I feel like online people play as if trust starts out at zero and stays there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8352" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T19:02:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18609" CreationDate="2014-08-21T19:14:08.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played as Baron Blade multiple times and never lost Scenario 1.&#xA;The key is using the terrain to your advantage.  There are eight potential targets of which you have to take out six.  That means you should be teleporting to an unoccupied target just about every time.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pay close attention to turn order.  Remember that you get two turns for every turn any particular other hero gets.  Is Ra over by himself protecting a target?  As soon as he takes his turn, jump over there and splice it, then jump away on your next turn before he gets to act again.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Always wear your suit for +1 defense, and don't be afraid to change out your teleport for your restributor (and +1 Defense token) on a turn when you're going to let them hit you - especially if you can burn an action to Dodge.  Never attack unless you know you can get a kill, like a six-space Fusion shot with Aim.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Good luck.  With a good handle on the terrain and the Baron's defensive powers, you should have the Megalopolis power grid in your hands in no time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8353" LastActivityDate="2014-08-21T19:14:08.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-22T00:05:44.547" Score="21" ViewCount="10479" Body="&lt;p&gt;If 2 or more players have 8+ cards, do they discard their cards in some &quot;player order&quot; (starting from the one who threw the dice) or is it simultaneous ... is there any specific rule to that situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played 3 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A had 8 cards&#xA;Player B had 8 cards&#xA;Player C had 0 cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A&quot; rolled 7. Player A will steal one card from player B (player C has no cards). Due the card counting player B wants to wait for player A to discard first so he can see the cards and choose better which of his own cards to discard (eliminate the possibility of player A stealing what he is after - maybe discarding 1 ore on purpose if he knows the player A is left with 2 ore and 2 wheat).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to repeat the question, is there a rule for discarding your hand in some clockwise order or its simultaneous or some third option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8354" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T07:26:43.377" Title="Settlers Of Catan - discarding cards when rolling 7" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11024" CreationDate="2014-08-22T03:07:44.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i have found that even though the standard four player game is rather unbalanced (at least it seems so, when compared to the other variants), however, if you replace greyjoy with tyrell the game is more balanced. that's how my friends and i have played it... we decided to also make pike impassable... it may or may not be necessary, but i think it adds a lot more balance to the game, as tyrell and baratheon focus more on the south, and  stark and lannister focus more on the north/center, and it just makes the game as a whole a lot more enjoyable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8357" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T03:07:44.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7882" CreationDate="2014-08-22T03:20:14.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;another important aspect of going first that is often overlooked is how it effects siege engine (i play the game in a foreign language, so if that is not what it's called, i assume you know what i'm referring to all the same). since its only value is when it attacks, if you have it adjacent to an opponent, going first could be the difference of having a siege engine or losing it entirely. i hope this helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8357" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T03:20:14.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18679" CreationDate="2014-08-22T05:31:44.250" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to do is simultaneous. While discarding, all the players keep all the cards aside face down. When everyone is done with this then the cards go to bank and are revealed to other players. I have seen this in action on the online version of Settlers of Catan on www.playcatan.com hence I think this is how it should be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8358" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T05:31:44.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-22T11:17:03.253" Score="4" ViewCount="1065" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Risk (or Risk Legacy), is there an established way of playing the game by mail/email/..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm considering setting up a game between friends, but am struggling to work out how the moves can be played out in a manner whereby the game doesn't take &lt;em&gt;forever&lt;/em&gt;. Is there perhaps some kind of well-established rules that would allow players to send in their moves simultaneously, without being aware of the other's actions? (ie a bit like Diplomacy, whereby the moves could be sent to an independent arbitrator who could resolve the winners of those conflicts)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8360" LastActivityDate="2019-02-21T18:59:23.260" Title="Risk - Play by mail/email" Tags="|risk|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2014-08-22T12:12:22.500" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer by @RemcoGerlich is essentially correct. Some extra info below. For further reference see the Dutch book &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.kndb.nl/3-tegen-1-is-gemeen.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Drie tegen een is gemeen&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, that contains a mathematical proof that 3 vs. 1 kings is a draw (which predates the age of perfect knowledge endgame databases by almost a decade!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer depends crucially on both the board geometry and the king movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For short-ranged kings (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;American checkers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Italian_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Italian draughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) 2 kings can force a win against 1 king. The same applies for orthogonally capturing kings (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fryskdamjen.nl/images/files/Frisiandraughts-briefmanual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Frisian draughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;) and kings that need to end a jump immediately behind the last jumped piece (&lt;a href=&quot;http://checkers.wikia.com/wiki/Mak-hot&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thai draughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For long-ranged kings, on square boards larger than 8x8 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10x10 International&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canadian_Checkers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;12x12 Canadian draughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), 3 kings against 1 king is a draw but 4 kings can always force a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On an 8x8 board (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pool_checkers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;American pool checkers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Russian draughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;), it is a win if the majority side occupies the long diagonal, and a draw otherwise. The key position is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%A2%D1%80%D0%B5%D1%83%D0%B3%D0%BE%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D0%B8%D0%BA_%D0%9F%D0%B5%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%B2%D0%B0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Petrov's triangle&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (in Russian, use a browser translator):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3OOG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On rectangular boards of dimensions &lt;code&gt;N x (N ± 1)&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;N x (N ± 2)&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;N x (2 N - 1)&lt;/code&gt;, there are two single corner diagonals that allow special tactics to enable a 3 vs. 1 forced win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In International draughts, the 3 vs 1 drawn engame is seen as the main culprit for the &lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;90%&lt;/code&gt; drawing percentage at grandmaster level matchplay. Many game tweaks have been proposed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2014-08-22T15:11:51.853" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T15:11:51.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18687" CreationDate="2014-08-22T12:16:12.193" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way would be to build yourself a graphical interface program of some sort to dump the data into a text file and send the file to the next player, who will load the data into the interface, apply some changes, dump it and send it again to the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;now for the actual interface, you could make it dumb as a rock (you put a picture of the map with separators you could also put a reminder of the continent bonus soldiers in a corner and counters of the next card hands, each zone has a dropdown box selector to select the color of the owner of the land and a textbox to imput the number of the player's dudes still on the country) where the rules are -not- included in the program. you'd have to check for mistakes yourself... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you could do the same thing but force the rules and verifications and stuff in the software... with a dice roller and cards included to prevent cheating...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you could juste give yourself a writing convention like NAME_OF_COUNTRY#COLOR#NUMBER_OF_GUYS and list all the zones &#xA;like assuming france was blue and red attacked it and got 10 guys surviving FRANCE#RED#10&#xA;and just highlight(you could even all have your color) the lines where there was a change so people can look and see rapidly what happenned.&#xA;and use the info in like EXCEL or OpenOffice Spreadsheet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;shouldnt be all that long either way&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i don't think i'd recommend playing by mail since it'd take days and cost fortunes in stamps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T12:16:12.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11024" CreationDate="2014-08-22T12:31:40.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;i'd believe it wouldnt be too hard just either spreading more evenly the factions or, take all the closest bunched-together factions for a massive free for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or actually using diplomacy with stark... &quot;guys, bash yourselves up as you want, i'm going to war to the south, i'll leave you guys alone, you dont come closer to me or we all end up as slave fodder for the other guy&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or you could always 3way rush the opponent in the south , one goes mainland, and the 2 others follow the seas down and siege the sides. (so long as no one disturbs the shipping lines, all 3 could potentially lay waste to the southerner player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i don't think its a question of imbalance, i think its a question of focusing on the wrong players... yeah, those close -COULD- take your castle... or they could be taking territories that are much less defended &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastActivityDate="2014-08-22T12:31:40.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-22T19:41:23.953" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Home Builders&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative game, published by Family Pastimes and Zonnespel/Sunny Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My youngest son likes it, mainly because of the theme. My eldest thinks it's boring, and I have to agree with him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7911/home-builders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Its rules are pretty simple&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, while it's a cooperative game, there's actually very little cooperation needed or even possible. Most of it is pure luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the main objection I have is that at a certain point, which can be quite early in the game, depending on what you draw, you already know if you're going to win or lose, even though you still have to finish the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I'd like to delay the moment when you know you've won, or you've lost.&#xA;There are four disasters, two repair options and two disaster prevention options. If you have at least as much prevention cards left as there are disasters left, you know you're going to win. If there are more parts of buildings destroyed than there are repair cards left, you know you can't win anymore. As I said, this can occur early in the game, depending on the luck of the draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can we change this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T15:38:02.880" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T15:38:02.880" Title="How do I make Home Builders more fun?" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-08-26T20:49:28.940" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16772" CreationDate="2014-08-23T13:38:34.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that sea zone 14 does not connect to balkans (Saw that on the official site) and what you show here is kind of the same thing so i wouldnt consider them as connecting. So i would say no it dosnt connect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8370" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T13:38:34.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-23T19:01:33.563" Score="1" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing a race with the special power &quot;Diplomat&quot; during the first round, are you allowed to declare peace with a player that has not yet entered the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5056" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:53:59.523" Title="Use of the special power &quot;Diplomat&quot; against another player not yet entered the game in Smallworld" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-24T04:27:52.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18714" CreationDate="2014-08-23T21:22:38.673" Score="9" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've just played a game of Fluxx, where the following occurred. There was a Draw3 and a Poor Bonus in play, so this player got to draw 4 cards. He then removed the Poor Bonus and changed the Draw3 to Draw4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option A: Since he raised the number of drawn cards, he needed to draw an extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option B: Since the resulting rules require 4 drawn cards and he already had drawn that many he did not need to draw another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which one is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7131" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:15:16.007" Title="Did this player need to draw?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18694" CreationDate="2014-08-23T21:42:35.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure. There is nothing in the rules to suggest that the race you choose needs to have units on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:42:35.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18695" CreationDate="2014-08-23T21:51:00.080" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say option A. The card drawn from poor bonus is described as an &quot;extra card&quot;, so I don't think you would think of it as &quot;poor bonus is in play, so for me, draw 4 is really draw 5.&quot; Rather, it's &quot;draw 4, then draw an extra card&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do not believe this is something that is specifically addressed in the rules, so you would either need to email Looney Labs for an official answer, or decide what makes the most sense for you when playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:51:00.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18694" CreationDate="2014-08-23T21:53:59.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found an &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/8151/5056&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; to this question in an answer to a similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8150/can-the-diplomat-power-be-used-against-a-player-without-an-active-race&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Is a race with the Diplomat power allowed to nominate a player, who has just declined or who has not yet had a turn (and therefore has no active race) as an ally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes indeed, the only restriction in the choice of an ally is that you cannot choose a player if you just attacked his active race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5056" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-23T21:53:59.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16772" CreationDate="2014-08-23T22:19:06.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://harrisgamedesign.com/pdf/A&amp;amp;A_1942_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Does Sea Zone 3 connect to the United Kingdom?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: Yes,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my memory serves correctly, that is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/maps/place/Scapa+Flow,+United+Kingdom/@57.9514883,-4.9893283,7z/data=!4m2!3m1!1s0x489afd5bbba7aa4f:0x283fcf6f1a7a8ecc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scapa Flow&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-08-24T06:27:36.130" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T06:27:36.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18701" CreationDate="2014-08-24T03:18:09.163" Score="-1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blood Feud lets two creatures fight each other. Is it similar to normal combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, after a combat you use up your power and toughness. If there are 3/4 and 2/2, and they combat each other, the first one uses 2 powers to kill the other and has remaining 1 power. Its toughness is used up to be 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the same thing happen and the effect remains till the end of the turn after Blood Feud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T03:26:37.640" Title="Effect of Blood Feud" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18700" CreationDate="2014-08-24T03:26:37.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a correct understanding of either combat or fighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fight&quot; is a special keyword that simply means &quot;the 2 chosen creatures deal damage to the other equal to their power.&quot; Neither power nor toughness is ever &quot;used up.&quot; If a 2/4 creature fights another 2/4 creature, both will still be a 2/4 creature after that. The only difference will be that they will both be a 2/4 creature with 2 damage on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combat, power and toughness are also not &quot;used up&quot;. The attacking and blocking creature will deal damage to the other equal to its power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T03:26:37.640" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18687" CreationDate="2014-08-24T04:21:53.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are websites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.conquerclub.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.conquerclub.com/&lt;/a&gt; where you can make an account (you and your friend need both a account) and then you can play a round of risk. in a private game but also with other people that have an account there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a few more sites where you also can play risk online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.majorcommand.com/http://www.dominating12.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.majorcommand.com/http://www.dominating12.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also have an program that is called. Vassal (open-source boardgame) engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have an module for risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8371" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T04:21:53.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18703" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-24T05:01:44.243" Score="4" ViewCount="1596" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules, it states that you must roll AT LEAST three hearts to earn an evolution card.  If you are able to roll/use card(s) to garner, for example, 6 stars, can you apply the 'at least' statement to mean per heart, or does AT LEAST indicate that a maximum of 1 evolution can be earned per turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8372" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T17:06:29.813" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T17:06:29.813" Title="In King of Tokyo, can you get more than 1 evolution per turn?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|king-of-tokyo-power-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18703" CreationDate="2014-08-24T05:56:41.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you may only draw one Evolution per set of rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.iellogames.com/download/KOT-PU-Rules-US_NM_SPB.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a monster ends their rolls with at least 3 [hearts], they draw the top Evolution of their deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the term &quot;at least 3&quot; indicates that any number above 2 will match the condition, thus 3 or 6 or anything between will give you the same result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly since the card effect happens at the time that you end your rolls, only one card can be on top of your Evolution deck at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T05:56:41.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20603" CreationDate="2014-08-24T06:06:32.573" Score="2" ViewCount="1709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing the Game of Thrones board game in a group that only has four players.  To fix some of the balance problems with the original four-player game, we tried using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/803739/balanced-game-ideas-4-or-5-players&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rumble in the South&lt;/a&gt; variant suggested by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11173/5762&quot;&gt;pandorym&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this variant, Stark and Greyjoy are unplayable and their lands are impassable. The impassable regions thus include: Bay of Ice, Flint's Finger, Ironman's Bay, Seagard, The Mountains of the Moon and The Narrow Sea. This variant is excellent at creating a true 4-way battle with shifting alliances! However I tend to make the win condition only 6 castles instead of 7 to speed up the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while this description makes it easy to mark off which territories are out of play, it is a little unclear on how neutral forts change.  Normally, there are a whole bunch of neutral forts in the southern lands, but the middle of the board ends up being fairly empty and open for rapid conquest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all four players are playing in the south, do the southern neutral forts need adjustment as well, or do they still serve a balancing purpose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T16:11:30.580" Title="When playing the Rumble in the South variant, what adjustments should be made to the neutral forts?" Tags="|house-rules|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18708" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-24T19:52:43.437" Score="5" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would playing cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; end my combat phase? And if not could I attack then Cloudshift then attack again with the same card that was Cloudshifted? Also would cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Amulet%20of%20Vigor&quot;&gt;Amulet of Vigor&lt;/a&gt; allow me to untap a Cloudshifted card that has already attacked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8380" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-08-25T19:59:52.023" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T19:59:52.023" Title="What happens if I play Cloudshift during combat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18708" CreationDate="2014-08-24T20:01:15.080" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, playing Cloudshift would not end your combat phase, but the creature it targeted will no longer be in combat. If this leaves you with no attackers, then the rest of combat is uninteresting and can usually be skipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you Cloudshift a creature, it enters the battlefield as a new creature, and has no memory of its previous existence. This means that it loses all counters, enchantments, equipments, and status. This means that (unless it says otherwise), it will enter untapped, unflipped, face up, and phased in. The specific rule about status is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot;&gt;110.6&lt;/a&gt;. It will also have summoning sickness because it just entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat follows &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_Phase&quot;&gt;specific steps&lt;/a&gt;: beginning, declare attackers, declare blockers, damage, and end of combat. So if you declare a creature as an attacker, and then you cloudshift it, you can't declare it as an attacker again because you're already done declaring attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-08-24T20:01:15.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18660" CreationDate="2014-08-25T03:40:20.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will be unable to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness is an informal term describing the restrictions imposed by 302.6. A complete definition of summoning sickness is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whenever a player gains control of a permanent, it will be affected by summoning sickness whenever the permanent is a creature without haste, until the player loses control of the permanent, or until the player's next turn (whichever comes first).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter how the player gained control of the permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could have been placed on the battlefield as the result of casting it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could have been placed on the battlefield as instructed by a spell or ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A continuous effect could have given control of an existing permanent to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could have reverted to your control by the end of a continuous effect giving control of an existing permanent to someone else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing else matters. Specifically, untapping doesn't end or suppress summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.10b If a creature has haste, it can attack even if it hasn’t been controlled by its controller continuously since his or her most recent turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.10c If a creature has haste, its controller can activate its activated abilities whose cost includes the tap symbol or the untap symbol even if that creature hasn’t been controlled by that player continuously since his or her most recent turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T03:46:07.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18712" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18713" CreationDate="2014-08-25T11:37:59.923" Score="10" ViewCount="1594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm missing this from somewhere, but a situation came up in a recent game that I need clarification on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The runner plays Dirty Laundry on a remote server with no ICE and only one card installed in the server.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The corp, before the runner can declare the run successful, rezzes that card.  That card is Jackson Howard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The corp trashes and removes Jackson Howard from the game, using his ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, what happens to the run the runner was on?  The server is technically destroyed.  I get it that the runner can't access any cards at that point, since there is nothing else in the server.  But when is the server considered 'destroyed'?  Immediately after Jackson is trashed?  Or does the runner get to finish their turn, access all the cards in the server (which is 0), and consider it a successful run?  This has implications for run cards, obviously, but it also has implications for cards like John Masanori.  If John gives you a tag on your first unsuccessful run, this is an easy way to tag a runner with their own cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T12:38:34.493" Title="Does destroying a server mean the run is unsuccessful?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18712" CreationDate="2014-08-25T12:38:34.493" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=207&amp;amp;esem=4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, page 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Destruction of Servers&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no cards installed in or protecting a remote server, then the server immediately ceases to exist. If a server ceases to exist during a run, the run immediately ends. Unless the run has passed step 4.4 of the timing structure of a run, it is not considered to be successful or unsuccessful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, you do not gain money for &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03052&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dirty Laundry&lt;/a&gt; and neither do you draw a card nor do you take a tag for &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04009&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;John Masanori&lt;/a&gt; as the run was neither successful nor unsuccessful. A run like this also doesn’t allow the corp to play cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03014&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Successful Demonstration&lt;/a&gt; on his or her next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5784" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T12:38:34.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18695" CreationDate="2014-08-25T22:56:47.237" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option A, the player should draw an extra card. Here's why: The Poor Bonus happens at the start of a player's turn. Since the player already drew for Poor Bonus, and removed the Poor Bonus after the draw, that card is fully resolved. But the Draw X cards always say to draw extra cards during a turn, so the player would need to draw one more card to meet that rule change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-08-25T22:56:47.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18724" CreationDate="2014-08-26T11:55:30.293" Score="5" ViewCount="1336" Body="&lt;p&gt;I collected and gamed with a Blood Angel and Dark Angel army during the mid to late 90s.  I have (I think) the second edition that came in a box set of basic Space Marines and Orks, and also have the Dark Millenium expansion.  I've been wondering recently what I would need to get to bring myself up to date with the current (7th) edition/rules.  If I were to get the newer models/squads etc, I would need at least the codex.  However presumably that itself would mean I need the updated rule book.  What about the likes of the wargear cards, warp cards, vehicle data cards etc?  Would the wide range of templates (flamer, blast radius etc) still be applicable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, whilst looking over some of my items I found a few old blister packs with a price on, so had a quick compare of prices.  However, one of the blister packs was Brother Bethor - he no longer seems to be available.  Presumably he'd be missing from a modern Codex and associated rules/points cost may no longer be valid.  I'm concerned this might also apply to other models in my army - how would this be resolved properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8388" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T05:55:35.247" Title="Modernising a 90s Warhammer 40K Army" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5417" CreationDate="2014-08-26T12:42:10.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There may be other ways to think about this, but for me these are the reasons to play trump during the melding phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to start the game with the lead.  If you have a lone Ace or if you have cards in every suit you don't want the other person to start the play because you will lose cards that would otherwise take tricks or may not get into the lead at all.  So you need the last trick in the melding phase - how big a trump to use is the question: I wouldn't use anything higher than a Jack to save a lone Ace because a higher Trump will probably get a counter in the main game anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to meld before it is too late.  If the other person might take the last trick in the melding phase and you don't have an extra 10 of trump then waiting until the last trick to meld your run won't work because you need the trump for the meld so you need to take an earlier trick - and you can probably do it with a low trump if it isn't the last trick.  Even if you do have an extra 10 of trump if your opponent has one of the Aces of trump and you are in the lead then they will take your 10 with their Ace - they get a counter and they keep you from getting your run so it is worth the Ace to them.  It is worth it to take an earlier trick to meld a run or 100 Aces even if you have to use a low trump to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you need to meld before it is too late.  If you are going to meld 80 kings don't do it after the sixth or seventh trick because you won't have time to use the non-trump kings to take tricks before the phase ends - and if you don't save them in the melding phase you will lose the kings to the opponent's 10s and Aces in the main game.  It is worth it to play a nine or Jack of trump to get the Kings on the table early so that you have time to save them by taking tricks with them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent needs to meld before it is too late.  If your opponent decides to play a 10 of trump near the end of the melding phase and you have an extra Ace of trump then play it - you get a counter and they won't get to meld whatever they thought was worth spending a 10 of trump on.  Even if they are leading a low trump or a non-trump Ace it might be worth it to use a nine or Jack of trump to make sure they can't meld.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always it depends, but if I knew I wasn't going to get a run (or I already melded it) the advice about nine and Jack might extend to King of trump especially if your opponent has both Aces of trump because if they are going to take your King anyway you may as well save it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said all that, using trump in the melding phase is uncommon for me - I only do it in situations where I am confident that the points I am melding or stopping my opponent from melding is larger than the benefit of having that last trump on the last trick of the main game.  My father isn't as cautious and uses trump more often so I guess it depends on who you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8390" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T12:42:10.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T13:02:40.247" Score="4" ViewCount="1640" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing the new release of Dungeon! by wotc with about 6 young players.  Looking at the cards, I noticed that its nearly impossible for the Rogue to ever win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to give the rogue a fighting chance?  Should we reduce the amount of loot required to 5,000 or 8,000?  Or should we perhaps give the rogue a &quot;sneak attack&quot; +1 to all dice rolls (on top of the magic sword)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T13:59:02.247" Title="Whats a good house rule to give the Rogue a chance at winning Dungeon?" Tags="|house-rules|dungeon|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-09-04T21:27:30.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13949" CreationDate="2014-08-26T13:09:08.930" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeVQesk0BQ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this review of the game&lt;/a&gt; if you have a fighter go straight to level 4 and stay there, they tend to win more often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our 4 games we have played so far, with 6 players, the wizard won once, the cleric won twice, and the fighter won once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T13:09:08.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T13:28:00.480" Score="1" ViewCount="429" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy the Game-Of-Thrones board game. (We only own the first edition, so no ports or siege engines etc.). My wife and friends tend to enjoy it also, well they used to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that currently, every time we play the game I always win. I've tried playing whomever I think is the weakest army but that doesn't seem to help much.  And by always win, what I mean is that a turn ends, and generally, I take the last castle, or they look at the board as the turn starts and see that no matter what they do, I'll get the last castle. They are normally only  1 or 2 castles behind me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some handicap I can give myself which will still make the game enjoyable but also even the odds a bit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastEditorUserId="8391" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T07:30:42.320" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:48:02.467" Title="What's a fair handicap?" Tags="|house-rules|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18594" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:02:30.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In part-score bidding the most competitive is neither side vulnerable because the penalties for either side going down are lower, so playing rather than defending will be favourable unless both sides are going down or someone is doubling and the contract is going at least 2 off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus actually in part-score bidding they are both opposites, the middle ground is one-side vulnerable, where you will consider not bidding either because you can get a better penalty defending (they are vulnerable) or your own penalty if you go down will be too big (you are vulnerable) and then it is really whether or not you think your side &quot;owns&quot; the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither side vulnerable: Compete to the max&#xA;Your side vulnerable: Bid on if you think your side owns the hand.&#xA;They are vulnerable: Bid on more if you think they own the hand.&#xA;Both sides vulnerable: Be more cautious&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is assuming matchpoints, that you can judge how far to compete and you can ascertain who owns the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you can double a non-vulnerable part-score for 2 off you should prefer that to bidding any part-score of your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:02:30.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18465" CreationDate="2014-08-26T14:08:35.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pre-empts should show a number of tricks and then you use &quot;cover cards&quot; in a situation like yours. If partner is used to pre-empting on 7 to the QJ and nothing else then you're going to pass on hands like that, but if partner has made a normal pre-empt you can assume a rule of 500, so 6 tricks if not-vulnerable, 7 if vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you have no idea whether the KQ holdings will yield tricks or not, and a club lead could certainly see the opponents set up 4 tricks, but I would generally think of your hand as  3 tricks and you'd certainly raise a vulnerable partner. With partner non-vulnerable, well take your pick but the cost is only 6 imps if you miss game here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T14:08:35.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18722" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18725" CreationDate="2014-08-26T15:07:57.557" Score="3" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent summoned Majesty's Fiend on their turn, I have Beast King Barbaros in hand. May I summon Beast King without tribute with Majesty's Fiend on the field and what is Beast King's attack when I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beast King Barbaros&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;3000 ATK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can Normal Summon/Set this card without Tributing, but its&#xA;  original ATK becomes 1900. You can Tribute 3 monsters to Tribute&#xA;  Summon this card. If you do: Destroy all cards your opponent controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Majesty's Fiend&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Cannot be Special Summoned. Monster effects cannot be activated.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastEditorUserId="7745" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T12:25:53.660" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:25:53.660" Title="Summoning Beast King Barbaros with Majesty's Fiend on the field" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2014-08-26T15:36:12.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The highest I have ever seen was 378. All 45 trains were used, they got 26 destinations, and made all of them, had longest train and globe trotter (1910) I have a picture of the score too, as I couldn't believe it and I was seeing it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8392" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T15:36:12.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18715" CreationDate="2014-08-26T16:54:53.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would need the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Warhammer-40-000-EN-A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;core rule book&lt;/a&gt; and codex to start.  Both the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Codex-Dark-Angels-EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dark Angels&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Codex-Blood-Angels-EN&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blood Angels&lt;/a&gt; codexes are separate books now.  There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Warhammer-40-000-Tactical-Objectives&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;scenario cards&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Warhammer-40-000-Psychic-Powers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;psychic cards&lt;/a&gt; for the current edition, but they are optional.  The game currently uses the 3&quot; and 5&quot; templates along with the teardrop flamer.  Those, a measuring device, a scatter die, and copious d6s is all that is required for play outside of minis and terrain.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The special characters available have changed much since 2nd edition.  The big ones like Dante, Mephiston, Ezekiel, and such are still around.  Generally if a character has gone away, there is usually a generic HQ options that you can still use the model for, such as a Blood Angel Sanguinary Priest and in the case of Bethor Dark Angels chapter standard bearer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2733" LastEditorUserId="12388" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T12:56:56.860" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T12:56:56.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18722" CreationDate="2014-08-26T17:00:27.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beast King's attack will be 1900 if you normal summon without tribute.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect that lets you normal summon him and decrease his attack is a continuous effect, not an activated effect, so Majesty's fiend will have no effect on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T17:00:27.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18726" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-26T18:10:33.223" Score="4" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I play pretty much everyday.  I was wondering if a snake order is actually more fair than the traditional 1-4 with the last person being at a disadvantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snake turn order would have players go in the order 1,2,3,4,4,3,2,1,1,2,3,4...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8393" LastEditorUserId="832" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T00:50:24.863" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T20:54:47.683" Title="Is the &quot;snake&quot; turn order for Blokus fairer than the traditional turn order?" Tags="|variants|blokus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12661" CreationDate="2014-08-26T20:23:43.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The current 10 points for every Ace, 10 and King in the trick pile is a new way of scoring.  The original scoring had different values for different cards so although the multiples of 10 aren't needed now they were before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playingcardsandmore.com/pinochleanoverview.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.playingcardsandmore.com/pinochleanoverview.aspx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Original Card Values: Each Ace 11, Each Ten 10, Each King 4, Each Queen 3, Each Jack 2, Each Nine 0.&#xA;The Simplified Card Values: Each Ace 10, Each Ten 10, each King 5, Each Queen 5, Each Jack 0, each Nine 0.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now it is even more simple than that - we only do things with multiples of 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8390" LastEditorUserId="8390" LastEditDate="2019-06-04T05:19:12.803" LastActivityDate="2019-06-04T05:19:12.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18719" CreationDate="2014-08-26T21:11:24.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Though we haven't tried it, it would seem the power tokens would be the way to go. Try some generous amount and see if the game starts swinging : it certainly should, once the player they are given to takes all the positions on the tracks, as longs as the player understands the rules and is not attacked ruthlessly in the beginning by the others. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another tactic to be considered, employed by go-players where a strong player playing a significantly weaker opponent, is for the better player to attempt to win by as small a margin as possible. Making intentionally some mistakes and suboptimal moves, and gauging the situation to allow the weaker players more 'life'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AGOT is a pretty complex game and so much depends on how the others are playing, like if you get stuck fighting your neighbour and nobody pays attention to the guy peacefully expanding his power, and so forth, that one more tack might be to allow for more diplomacy, perhaps even encourage somebody to team up with the weaker player to start with, or to play an 'open game' where tactics are discussed as the game progresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-08-26T21:11:24.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18730" CreationDate="2014-08-27T02:06:10.060" Score="9" ViewCount="4683" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I cast a creature spell, let's say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;. It enters the stack, then in response another player casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; targeting it. Could I, in response to that, cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avoid%20fate&quot;&gt;Avoid fate&lt;/a&gt; or is the Elvish Mystic not considered a permanent until the spell resolves and thus Avoid Fate has no effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8394" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T03:03:17.093" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T12:17:05.040" Title="When a creature is summoned but still on the stack is it considered a permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18729" CreationDate="2014-08-27T02:09:05.363" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a permanent while it's on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before it resolves, it's a spell (on the stack). After it resolves, it's a permanent (on the battlefield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you cannot cast Avoid Fate targeting a Counterspell that's targeting your Elvish Mystic on the stack. (It's not that Avoid Fate has no effect; you can't cast it in the first place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T02:09:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18554" CreationDate="2014-08-27T03:13:41.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can add them to the domain as a resource.  You do need at least one card from a non-neutral card's faction in order to pay for that card though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/612548/playing-neutral-card-domain-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/612548/playing-neutral-card-domain-question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8395" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T03:13:41.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T03:22:32.180" Score="13" ViewCount="2838" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy playing Agricola, but the box the game comes in doesn't lend to keeping the pieces organized, and I generally spend a fair amount of time taking everything out, and even more time putting everything back so it's not a complete mess the next time I play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any good suggestions for alternative storage that minimizes the set up/tear down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8395" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-07-28T20:54:49.190" LastActivityDate="2022-07-28T20:54:49.190" Title="Minimizing Agricola setup/clean up time" Tags="|agricola|game-setup|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2014-08-27T03:37:39.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with most games, splitting the pieces into a decent number of small zip lock bags seems to make it work just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think my copy of Agricola actually came with plenty of bags, but they're really cheap if you need to buy some. (For example, searching for &quot;small ziplock bags&quot; on amazon I found packs of 100 or 1000 for under $10.) You can split it into a bag of animals, a bag of vegetables/grain, a bag for each player's pieces, and so on. The decks can be kept split up either rubber banded or in bags of their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not fancy enough for you, you can certainly build yourself &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1299638/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a divided box&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1300245/agricola&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;find something the right size&lt;/a&gt; (look at hobby/craft stores or at places like Target for jewelry storage and such), but I tend to think that's overkill. It takes some effort to make/find something exactly the right size without adding enough bulk that things don't fit as well in the box. (But it can be a fun project if you're into that sort of thing!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for fast setup/teardown, as long as everyone you're playing with is helpful, it goes pretty fast; I don't think you really need any special tricks as long as you haven't mixed all the pieces together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T03:44:38.357" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T03:44:38.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T04:12:00.740" Score="21" ViewCount="3401" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different 'official' Scrabble dictionaries, but at least for this question I'm primarily interested in North American play, and so I'm interested in two word lists particularly: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabbleplayers.org/w/Official_Tournament_and_Club_Word_List&quot;&gt;OWL2&lt;/a&gt;, the official tournament word list; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scrabbleplayers.org/w/Official_SCRABBLE_Players_Dictionary&quot;&gt;OSPD4&lt;/a&gt;, the 'Official Scrabble Player's Dictionary', which is used for school play and is the dictionary you can find in your favorite bookstore.  The difference between the two is that OWL2 includes a number of offensive words that aren't in the OSPD (you can find a good list of the differences &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.seattlescrabble.org/expurg.php&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what's the effect of the larger word list in practice?  Scanning through the list I can only see two words that seem likely to get any substantial amount of play: &lt;code&gt;LEZ&lt;/code&gt; (just as a short Z word - although note that LE isn't a legal two-letter word, so this doesn't provide a hook) and &lt;code&gt;YID&lt;/code&gt; (which &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a hook onto ID for playing a Y).  I'm curious whether this has been formally studied at all, and if anyone has any pointers as to how often these words actually come up in practice in tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T16:22:20.117" Title="How common are offensive words in tournament Scrabble play?" Tags="|scrabble|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2014-08-27T09:05:26.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The box of Agricola I got came with about 10 bags which I've been able to use to seperate everything into.  What I do, is that I only take things out of the bags when they need to be used, and then start piles of &quot;discarded items&quot; to be re-used during game play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also try to keep all the like items near each other so that during clean up it's pretty quick to put the stuff back into their respective bags.  Some people get annoyed at me and ask for the bags to be dumped open so they don't have to try to take an item from the bag during game play (But hey that's more time to think!), but I find the easier setup and cleanup worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T09:05:26.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18737" CreationDate="2014-08-27T12:01:05.917" Score="-8" ViewCount="1671" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a player taps the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grindclock&quot;&gt;Grindclock&lt;/a&gt; ability to pull X cards from a player's library and place them in the graveyard, does the counter reset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8368" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-27T12:36:07.080" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:41:57.710" Title="Does Grindclock's counter reset when it's activated?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18736" CreationDate="2014-08-27T12:07:04.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In MTG, counters are physical markers that are counted, added and removed; they are not abstractions that store a number that can be manipulated. As such, it makes no sense to talk about &lt;em&gt;resetting&lt;/em&gt; a counter; you want to know if the counters are &lt;em&gt;removed&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing instructs you to remove the the counters, so you do not remove them. Just like attacking doesn't remove +1/+1 counters, using Grindclock's ability does not remove charge counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/18413/2880&quot;&gt;Things that remove counters&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:38:47.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18729" CreationDate="2014-08-27T12:17:05.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. A permanent is an object on the battlefield. If an object is on the stack, it's not on the battlefield. Only spells and abilities can be found on the stack. This particular spell would be called a &quot;permanent spell&quot;, which means a spell that would become a permanent on resolution, but it's not a permanent. (This is the only case I can think of where something is said to be something of the form XXX YYY without being both XXX and YYY.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T12:17:05.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2014-08-27T13:27:44.083" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;How about a foamcore insert?  I just finished my Agricola foamcore yesterday. I haven't benchmarked the setup and breakdown times (yet). There are no zip top bags to open, it should only take a minute.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have friends who get a little tacklebox organizer for each game.  This takes more effort than that, but it's much more customizable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a crash course on how to make something like this, check out this video series: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hfKaDX2P2k&amp;amp;list=UUzm-X8tDtEyrOeYiC9SdcJg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Using Foamcore&quot;&gt;Using Foamcore&lt;/a&gt; by The Esoteric Order of Gamers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updated with a new version:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/obkd5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;v1&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLGG0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;v2&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pQziA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Second Agricola Foamcoare&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OhrSd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My Old Agricola Foamcore&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastEditorUserId="7502" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T20:41:40.130" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T20:41:40.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-27T14:43:47.793" Score="0" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and a second &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gray%20Merchant%20of%20Asphodel&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; enters, do both cards trigger and opponent loses x life where x is devotion times 2, or does just the one card entering the battlefield trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8401" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T03:53:33.863" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T03:53:33.863" Title="Do multiple Gray Merchant of Asphodels trigger each others' enters-the-battlefield effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-08-27T16:20:57.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18740" CreationDate="2014-08-27T14:45:49.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, only the one entering the battlefield triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time you see a card use its own name in its rules text, that means it is referring to the card that it is printed on; not other cards with the same name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it's on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T14:45:49.673" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2014-08-27T16:33:39.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;keywords=plano%20boxes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plano box&lt;/a&gt;&quot; did it for me. You'll find these for general organization across a lot of specific disciplines, primarily arts and crafts but also fishing and home improvement. Any big-box department store should have a respectable selection, as does Amazon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I count 10 different resource types in the base game (including animals), but some are more plentiful than others, so either a box with movable dividers, or one with up to 16 fixed-size slots, should do the trick. It has to be relatively shallow in order to fit in the box without raising the lid, but it wasn't hard for me to find a box of this type that met that criteria. A box whose lid is designed to be easily removed is ideal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty is that the box can then be used in-game; yes, the back side of one of the player boards is supposed to be a &quot;stockyard&quot; for the varying resource types, but if you're playing with 5 players that's no longer an option, and why bother pouring out all the bits and stacking them in piles when you can just open up a lid ? Then, instead of bagging, simply drop the loose bits into their proper compartments, close the lid and the resource bits are packed. Bag the cards, the player-specific bits, the larger cardboard &quot;chits&quot; for tiles and larger resource counts (which I never use), and throw it all in the box on top of the player and main boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T15:08:31.440" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T15:08:31.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18736" CreationDate="2014-08-27T19:50:01.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The counters on Grindclock do not reset.&lt;/strong&gt; In fact, &amp;quot;Reset&amp;quot; is not a special keyword that means anything to a Magic player. The short answer is that if nothing says to remove counters, they don't get removed. The long answer is that they remain until one of two things happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An effect removes the counters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The object upon which the counters were placed cease to exist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the first bullet is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Power%20Conduit&quot;&gt;Power Conduit&lt;/a&gt;, which has an activated ability that removes counters. Coincidentally, it creates counters that are interchangeable with those generated by Grindclock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of the second bullet would be if I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; on your Grindclock. Your Grindclock would be destroyed. Any counters on it cease to exist. This is not the same as &amp;quot;removing&amp;quot; counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T18:41:57.710" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:41:57.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18726" CreationDate="2014-08-27T20:40:32.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say not. The advantage to those on the ends of being able to place multiple pieces consecutively is far greater than the disadvantage of going last in this game, IME.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the single most successful opening strategy is to get across the board as fast as you can, so you don't end up boxed in to your corner of the board. It's been my experience that even with perfect play by the players immediately to the left and right of any one player, it is impossible to effectively &quot;corral&quot; a knowledgeable player attempting to do this, because even if all three other players reach the center first, they will be unable to stop a concerted effort by the player they're attempting to corral to &quot;squeeze out&quot; through one of the gaps left by the other players in their mad dash to the center. A player typically ends up corralled when they focus on building a compact arrangement of pieces in their own quadrant, and that's such a basic strategic mistake that the game designers saw fit to advise against it in the one-page instruction manual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the snake arrangement is typically most equitable when the style of the game is such that any player could make exactly the same move, and would want to make that move about as much as any other player, and so an arbitrary decision of who can make the most desirable move in the round or game is perceived as unjustly biased. &quot;Draft&quot;-style decisions, such as worker-placement games, are an obvious example that typically benefit most from a variable player order of some kind. Catan's another common example; the last player to place their first settlement is the first player to place their second, allowing them to choose a pair of locations that work well together, compensating for the disadvantage of having the worst first pick. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blokus is not that type of game; the number of situations in which two players can make &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same move, and the move would be equally advantageous to either player, are sharply limited overall, despite anecdotal evidence to the contrary. Even in those cases, it's very rare that the two players would see equal advantage from the move, as while the piece to be played might be exactly the same, the places the player could go based on that move are likely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given these two points, the advantage conferred on the last player (and eventually the first player) in a snake turn order is enormous; in this game, being able to play two pieces consecutively is like being able to move two pieces on the same turn in chess. You get the opportunity to make a coordinated sequence of moves, and in this game that often creates a far larger advantage than the disadvantage you would have by going last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T20:40:32.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18726" CreationDate="2014-08-27T20:54:47.683" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Snake Order&quot; isn't that common in games, because getting 2 turns in a row is often a massive advantage. Usually the first player advantage is dealt with by rotating the starting player, so I'd suggest you try that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player order would be &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;,2,3,4,&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;,3,4,1,&lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt;,4,1,2,&lt;strong&gt;4&lt;/strong&gt;,1,2,3 then back to &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt;,2,3,4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-08-27T20:54:47.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-08-28T08:29:59.923" Score="4" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18726/is-the-snake-turn-order-for-blokus-fairer-than-the-traditional-turn-order&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which describes the &quot;snake turn&quot;, is there a good label to give the turn order in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Rico_(board_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Puerto Rico&lt;/a&gt;, where the first player starts the round, then the second player starts the round, then the third player starts the round etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I'm asking is so that I can more quickly get through that part of the explanation of the rules.  We always seem to spend a few minutes explaining that part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8391" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T12:45:55.110" Title="What is the best way to describe the turn order in Puerto Rico?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18748" CreationDate="2014-08-28T12:45:55.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just say the turns have a 'rotating starting player'.  If you have players familiar with poker or card games in general, you can use the dealer &amp;amp; blinds as an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T12:45:55.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18751" CreationDate="2014-08-28T18:04:29.510" Score="5" ViewCount="7977" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Betrayal at House On the Hill, we had a player who died while having custody of the Madman. The Madman omen card states that it can't be &quot;dropped, traded, or stolen&quot;, which are actions you can do with items. Companions, however, are not regarded as items, and players have &quot;custody&quot; of them. Usually, when a player dies, items in their possession get dropped in that room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what happens when a dead player loses custody of the Madman/Girl/Dog through death? Do they stay in the room, waiting for another player to gain custody, do they go back into the omen deck, or are they removed from the game entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2020-04-16T23:15:52.777" Title="What happens to companions when a player dies?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18750" CreationDate="2014-08-28T18:40:55.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 12 of the rules book (you can download a copy from WotC &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/downloads&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) says that those companions remain in the room and are picked up whenever another explorer enters that room (this appears to be mandatory, whereas it is optional for explorers to pick up dropped items).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2014-08-28T18:56:18.390" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T18:56:18.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18752" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18753" CreationDate="2014-08-28T21:46:38.203" Score="7" ViewCount="24151" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm actually working on an alternative card set. While designing tribal mechanics, I have encountered a problem with a single thing: does a creature exiled after being destroyed (instead of being put into graveyard) still counts as if it &amp;quot;died&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's imagine a situation:&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sengir%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Sengir Vampire&lt;/a&gt; deals damage to target 3/5 creature. Then, to finish the creature I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt;... so, instead of dying (being put into graveyard) the creature gets exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Sengir Vampire dealt damage to a creature finished with Pillar of Flame, will he get +1/+1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8411" LastEditorUserId="13806" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T22:36:27.530" LastActivityDate="2020-02-02T01:31:15.090" Title="Does exiling a creature after it has been destroyed or dealt lethal damage still count as if it &quot;died&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18752" CreationDate="2014-08-28T21:55:02.583" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Sengir Vampire does not get a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature dies when it moves from the battlefield to the graveyard. So, there are two different possibilities here. If the creature goes to the graveyard &lt;strong&gt;and then&lt;/strong&gt; moves to exile, then it counts as dying. However, if it goes to exile &lt;strong&gt;instead of&lt;/strong&gt; the graveyard, then it does not count as dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, Pillar of Flame says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it &lt;strong&gt;instead&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of the word &quot;instead&quot; indicates that this is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_Effect&quot;&gt;replacement effect&lt;/a&gt;. So going to exile replaces going to the graveyard. Specifically, rule 614.6 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an event is replaced, it never happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The event of the creature dying is replaced by exiling the creature, so it never died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-08-28T21:55:02.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18732" CreationDate="2014-08-29T01:24:23.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trade-off is between setup time and maintenance (restocking at the beginning of each turn).  We've chosen to split the difference as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each set of player pieces goes into its own ziplock bag.  Hand each player a bag at the beginning of the game and let him manage it from there.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the goods (wood, clay, reeds, stone, grain) go into a single large ziplock bag.  We just dump this out onto the table (or, if you prefer, into a shallow bowl).  Yes, you have to do a little digging when restocking the board, but it's spread out enough that you can generally just pick up three wood (etc).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the livestock go into a single bag.  Treat like the goods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All the food tokens and the &quot;5x&quot; chits go into a single bag.  Again, just dump it out somewhere; most of the time you're just grabbing food and the other chits are larger, so we haven't found it to be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Separate the cards into minor improvements, occupations, and everything else.  For &quot;everything else&quot;, that's the major improvements (in order, so you can just deal them out), the 14 turn cards (we just shuffle them all together and then populate the board), the extra &quot;board&quot; cards for higher numbers of players (we just pick what we need there), begging cards (we ignore them unless needed), and the &quot;cheat sheet&quot; cards (deal out).  You could put a &quot;cheat sheet&quot; card in with each bag of player pieces if you prefer; we've never bothered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This distribution of stuff allows easy parallel processing during game setup.  One person can deal out the board, turn, and major-improvement cards while somebody else (or multiple somebodies) dump out the three bags of tokens and somebody else (could be two somebodies) shuffles and deals occupation and minor-improvement cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't bother to sort out the occupations by number of players; after dealing, people check for invalid cards, return them, and get dealt replacements.  Iterate until done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we play we use all of the series together; if you want to play with, e.g., only the K-cards, I suggest the same approach as for occupations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't timed our setup, but it's never triggered the &quot;ugh, this is taking too long&quot; reaction.  I think our Agricola setup is comparable to our Puerto Rico setup, for what that's worth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastActivityDate="2014-08-29T01:24:23.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18734" CreationDate="2014-08-30T00:20:32.537" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;code&gt;HO&lt;/code&gt; is used rather often. &lt;code&gt;LEZ&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;ABO&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;GOY&lt;/code&gt; are the next most common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methodology: I have a database of about a million games played on a popular internet Scrabble server played under the standard Tournament Word List. I scanned this for all uses of offensive words. Roughly 360,000 of the 27,000,000 moves used a word from the expurgated list, or 1.3% of moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This table lists the top most-used expurgated words, sorted by the number of times they were played. The rating here is the average rating of the player when the word was used. All the words on this table represent 90% of the uses of offensive words in &quot;average&quot; play among enthusiast Scrabble players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Word  |   Uses   | AvgRating|    % all &#xA;  HO  |  148182  |     910  |   41.01%&#xA; LEZ  |   26387  |     947  |    7.30%&#xA; ABO  |   25423  |    1043  |    7.04%&#xA; GOY  |   22458  |     936  |    6.22%&#xA; YID  |   16771  |     984  |    4.64%&#xA; PEE  |   14862  |     906  |    4.11%&#xA; JEW  |   12065  |     926  |    3.34%&#xA; WOP  |   11739  |     999  |    3.25%&#xA; WOG  |   10105  |     975  |    2.80%&#xA; POO  |    7257  |     947  |    2.01%&#xA;FART  |    5532  |     870  |    1.53%&#xA; POM  |    5075  |     955  |    1.40%&#xA;JEWS  |    4211  |     910  |    1.17%&#xA; HOS  |    3482  |     918  |    0.96%&#xA;SHIT  |    3200  |     876  |    0.89%&#xA;TURD  |    3018  |     943  |    0.84%&#xA;DAGO  |    2900  |    1032  |    0.80%&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;HO&lt;/code&gt; is obviously strongly represented by virtue of being a two-letter word; appearing in 41% of the 1.3% of offensive moves means it's played in about 1 in 5 games. You can see some vocabulary effects in the data -- &lt;code&gt;ABO&lt;/code&gt; is not natively in many people's vocabulary (this is mostly an Australian thing to my knowledge), whereas &lt;code&gt;FART&lt;/code&gt; certainly is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other trivia about uses of these expurgated words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next word on this list starts with &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; and you can probably guess what it is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first seven-letter word is &lt;code&gt;FARTING&lt;/code&gt; (169 uses)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;240 of the 324 expurgated words were used&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The word &lt;code&gt;NITCHIE&lt;/code&gt; was played 7 times, but only ever by people rated above 1450 (strong player)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No word longer than 8 letters long was played&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3590" LastEditorUserId="3590" LastEditDate="2017-11-17T16:22:20.117" LastActivityDate="2017-11-17T16:22:20.117" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18757" CreationDate="2014-08-30T19:07:01.543" Score="2" ViewCount="2364" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just started playing MTG and am really liking it. In the six games I have played, with a couple of people, the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuickling%5d&quot;&gt;Quickling&lt;/a&gt; card keeps coming up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We just don't understand under what circumstances this card would be a good thing. Why would I ever want to cast a card and then just sacrifice it straightaway? Or why would I want to spend mana to just swap out a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there is a really good strategic use for this card I just can't work it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8423" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-12-27T15:08:52.750" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T15:08:52.750" Title="When would I play a Quickling?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18756" CreationDate="2014-08-30T19:29:17.553" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quickling can and should be used on your own creatures for the same reason you would use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Peel%20from%20Reality&quot;&gt;Peel from Reality&lt;/a&gt;: to return a creature with a useful enter-the-battlefield ability such as (at least in M15) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frost%20Lynx&quot;&gt;Frost Lynx&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reclamation%20Sage&quot;&gt;Reclamation Sage&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hornet%20Queen&quot;&gt;Hornet Queen&lt;/a&gt;, more usefully, because it has Flash, you can use it to save a creature that opponent is trying to hit with any removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So not only do you get to reuse a useful creature or save it form being destroyed or otherwise rendered useless (i.e. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Encrust&quot;&gt;Encrust&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crippling%20Blight&quot;&gt;Crippling Blight&lt;/a&gt;), but you also get a 2/2 flier out of the deal, &lt;em&gt;which you can cast any time during your opponent's turn and attack with the next turn&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T19:29:17.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13413" CreationDate="2014-08-30T21:25:30.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll start by saying that there won't be an explicit answer to this question. Cosmic Encounter is about interactions, and given the number of aliens with different powers, sometimes you just have to make it up as you go and use some logic to come to the best conclusion. I think this is probably one of those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation would be &lt;strong&gt;when you play the Philanthropist Flare as the Schizoid, the player you lend your power to can look at the win condition.&lt;/strong&gt; The most logical reasoning for this is presented by dorakeen in a different answer: the player with the Schizoid power &quot;is responsible to announce when any player(s) have fulfilled the winning conditions&quot;. When you use the Philanthropist Flare, you no longer have your power and as such cannot declare a win condition met. The person who is now the Schizoid, even temporarily, has that job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there's nothing on the Schizoid card that says you can't show the alternate win condition to other players. If something in the game would cause that card to be revealed to another player or players for some reason, nothing is there to stop that event. The lack of specification about whether other players could see that card leads me to believe that it could be shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, if you and your game group feel that the answer is actually no, there's nothing in the rules to contradict you. Remember the game is about interactions, so do what makes the most sense to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2014-08-30T21:25:30.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13443" CreationDate="2014-08-31T07:52:22.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also don't forget that &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/89848/ticket-ride-alvin-dexter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ticket To Ride: Alvin &amp;amp; Dexter&lt;/a&gt; is an expansion that can work with any of the base TTR games. It expands the game in a different direction; adding a giant dinosaur and an alien who can create havoc for those trying to build to/from a certain location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T07:52:22.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4249" CreationDate="2014-08-31T08:14:14.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chivalry by itself is difficult to be a good VP engine. Its strength lies in that you can distribute the cubes anywhere so it can help you gain fight events regardless of the typical dice color. As you noted in your question, the challenge with Chivalry is that it it gives you a cube for each red die you have left after the cost is paid. Since you typically lose 2 to 3 red dice just battling events, it can be hard to effectively defeat events this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the previous answer suggested, this can give you some good end game points if you spread out the cubes and get the 1 VP credit for having a cube per event card at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I've seen Chivalry used extremely effectively is with the Captain which gives you that same bonus when activated. If you have a good number of cubes spread out on event cards and activate the Captain multiple times you can have a powerful VP engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Joust took me a bit to fully understand, but this one can be a very good source of VPs. The key to remember is that you don't need to have the highest # of red dice (after you've paid to activate it), but instead the highest total of pips on the red dice you have left. This means that if there are 2 red dice left and you have one that has only 1 pip and an opponent has one that has 3 or more pips, you can buy that die from them and activate Joust and score your VPs. Also b/c it only costs 3 to activate, this is one that you can activate multiple times fairly easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing to consider is the VPs you get for being first or second to purchase. Chivalry only pays 2 for the 1st player and 1 for the 2nd player. Joust pays 3 for the 1st and 2 for the 2nd. So if Joust first position is available and you can get the dice to make it work, I'd strongly consider it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T08:14:14.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18763" CreationDate="2014-08-31T12:22:21.010" Score="3" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just purchased the Android Netrunner Core Set, played a few games, and am now excited to play more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that our usual gaming group consists of 4 people, and to my knowledge the Core Set only allows you to build up to 2 playable decks (1 corp, 1 runner) for play at the same time, because of the number of neutral cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what would be the most economical way to extend the Core Set with enough cards to build 2 enjoyable Runner and Corp decks for play at the same time without actually shelling out another 40$ for a second core set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8426" LastEditorUserId="24103" LastEditDate="2019-03-17T11:05:55.747" LastActivityDate="2019-03-17T11:05:55.747" Title="Possible to play 2x2 with 1 core set and data pack in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18767" CreationDate="2014-08-31T16:29:01.497" Score="4" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic, if you swap in cards from your sideboard during a match, you need to reset to your original deck for the beginning of the next match. I find I have trouble remembering what I sideboarded and reseting it correctly, especially in limited, where I've just built the deck and don't know my decklist by heart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there common strategies to keep track of which cards you've sideboarded and to make it easy to reset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="872" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T06:07:30.863" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T14:18:37.697" Title="How can I keep track of my sideboarded cards in a physical Magic deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2014-08-31T16:51:02.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most data packs won't meet this requirement on their own (for the exception, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/20777/318&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; on this question). From the rulebook, page 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To make a starter deck, take all the cards of a single Corporate or&#xA;  Runner faction and shuffle in all of the neutral cards for the chosen&#xA;  side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's 22 neutral cards on the corp side, and 15 for the runners. On average let's assume you can make up 5 of them by pulling in other-color cards, you still need a few more cards. A data pack is going to have maybe 3 neutral cards and 6 of each color typically, so by the time you have 2 data packs you could probably technically pull off 2 separate simultaneous games, as long as nobody is playing the same faction. However, this will limit what you can do in terms of deckbuilding - both runners fighting over Sure Gamble, for example. That will become less and less annoying as the number of data packs you own goes up, but won't likely stop being a topic of conversation. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T19:18:17.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18764" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-08-31T21:33:53.410" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-08-31T21:33:53.410" LastActivityDate="2014-08-31T21:33:53.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18765" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-08-31T21:33:53.410" Score="0" Body="A game where 2 to 5 players lead post-apocalyptic tribes fighting for scarce resources and people. Players must hire mercenaries and choose members of his tribe to hunt for food, dig for tools and medicine, or fight for contested resources. The winner is the leader with the biggest tribe.&#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The main game mechanic is deck building: cards are drawn from a player's deck and played to acquire more cards that go into the player's deck." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T13:15:31.963" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T13:15:31.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16682" CreationDate="2014-09-01T01:09:30.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would advise that you check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/83330/mansions-madness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mansions of Madness page on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;. Specifically, I would look in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/files/thing/83330&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Files&lt;/a&gt; section to find more custom scenarios. Although I'm not clear how your group would define &quot;good&quot;, a reasonable way of evaluating the good and interesting scenarios is to see how many Thumbs Up each File has been given.  A quick way to determine the most popular entries is to sort on the &quot;Hot&quot; rating of each file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that not all the Files listed are scenarios. Several files are player aids and reference sheets. Also the site supports multiple languages so some scenarios may exist that are written in a non-English language. A quick perusal of the Files shows several user created custom scenarios have fairly good ratings (20+ Thumbs Up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T01:09:30.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18762" CreationDate="2014-09-01T01:26:39.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Write down your sideboard in a list and keep that with your deck. You might want to keep note of it on something durable in your deck box, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to reset your deck and sideboard to their default:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take a look at your currently sideboarded cards, and the sideboard list you wrote. Set aside the ones that &lt;em&gt;belong&lt;/em&gt; in your default sideboard - put these together.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Find the remainders in your deck, and put those together with the cards you set aside in step 1, until you have your entire sideboard set aside in a pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everything remaining that is not in that pile must necessarily be a part of your deck, so shuffle it back in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll now have your default sideboard and, by exclusion, your default deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T01:26:39.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18804" CreationDate="2014-09-01T02:55:27.320" Score="3" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with 2 players the amount of tribe members is irrelevant. Suppose that one player takes a family to the skirmish, and the other a shovel. With that, both players have fight 0. Is this a draw or the player showing the family wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T15:14:23.433" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T18:09:04.643" Title="Exciting skirmish: a family versus a shovel. Who wins?" Tags="|arctic-scavengers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18770" CreationDate="2014-09-01T07:40:28.433" Score="3" ViewCount="1821" Body="&lt;p&gt;A green creature is equipped with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=259699&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ring of Kalonia&lt;/a&gt;. A +1/+1 counter is put on at the owner's upkeep(BTW, I believe a new counter isn't added every upkeep step). The creature gains trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when the Ring is exiled? I believe the trample ability is removed. But what happens to the +1/+1 counter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="8150" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T12:36:14.417" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T12:36:14.417" Title="What happens to counters on a creature when the equipment that put them there is exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18769" CreationDate="2014-09-01T09:39:27.523" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A new counter &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; added on &lt;em&gt;every one&lt;/em&gt; of the upkeep steps of the player who controls the equipment. After five of these upkeeps, the creature will have five +1/+1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The counters (plural) stay there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You seem to be confusing a counter-placing effect with something like what &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bladed%20Bracers&quot;&gt;Bladed Bracers&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equipped creature gets +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas Ring of Kalonia says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, put a +1/+1 counter on equipped creature if it's green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ring of Kalonia's ability is a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt; which adds a new +1/+1 counter to the creature every time it resolves, and it triggers at the beginning of every upkeep of the equipment's controller. This adds up. These counters are independent of the equipment, and stay there when it goes away - whether it gets unequipped, exiled, or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bladed Bracers' ability on the other hand is a &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; ability, which says the creature &amp;quot;gets +1/+1&amp;quot;. This doesn't apply counters, it just modifies the equipped creature. It doesn't increase, and there's no delay - it just starts applying instantly. When the Bracers go away, so does the +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability on the Bracers I've quoted is the same kind of thing as Ring of Kalonia's &amp;quot;Equipped creature has trample&amp;quot;, which is &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; a static ability, and as you're aware, goes away when the equipment does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-01T09:45:18.563" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T09:45:18.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-01T13:41:31.820" Score="6" ViewCount="1898" Body="&lt;p&gt;We had a situation where a player had 5 cards but forgot to turn them in at the beginning of the turn.  Other player noticed &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; first player had already attacked and conquered at least one territory.  Is there an official rule for this?  If not, is there a good house rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T19:02:54.343" Title="What happens if a player has 5 cards and forgets to exchange them in Risk?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18771" CreationDate="2014-09-01T17:13:15.467" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could not find an official rule to cover a missed mandatory action in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/risk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/risk.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some house rules to cover the situation are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revert back to the start of the turn. (only applicable if only a small number of moves were played since the missed mandatory action)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wait until the next turn, and make sure they turn the cards in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T17:13:15.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18773" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-01T18:27:53.897" Score="1" ViewCount="1208" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some older &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Lands&#xA;25  Island&#xA;14  Mountain&#xA;10  Swamp&#xA;&#xA;U&#xA;1   Aura Flux&#xA;1   Balloon Peddler&#xA;1   Boucing Beebles&#xA;1   Buoyancy&#xA;1   Cloud of Faeries&#xA;1   Delusions of Mediocrity&#xA;1   Diplomatic Escort&#xA;1   Disappear&#xA;1   Fatigue&#xA;1   Fledging Osprey&#xA;1   Illuminated Wings&#xA;1   King Crab&#xA;1   Misstep&#xA;1   Port Inspector&#xA;1   Prodigal Sorcerer&#xA;1   Rebuild&#xA;1   Saprazzan Raider&#xA;1   Slow Motion&#xA;1   Weatherseed Faeries&#xA;2   Capsize&#xA;2   Frantic Search&#xA;2   Mental Discipline&#xA;2   Scent of Brine&#xA;2   Thieving Magpie&#xA;3   Counterspell&#xA;3   Sigil of Sleep&#xA;3   Thornwind Faeries&#xA;4   Hermetic Study&#xA;4   Horseshoe Crab&#xA;4   Rootwater Hunter&#xA;4   Vigilant Drake&#xA;4   Zuran Spellcaster&#xA;&#xA;R&#xA;2   Incinerate&#xA;2   Kaervek's Torch&#xA;2   Lightning Blast&#xA;2   Shock&#xA;4   Anaba Shaman&#xA;4   Fire Whip&#xA;4   Goblin Medics&#xA;4   Mark of Fury&#xA;&#xA;B&#xA;1   Bone Shredder&#xA;1   Cateran Persuader&#xA;1   Disease Carriers&#xA;1   Ghoul's Feast&#xA;1   Insubordination&#xA;1   Maggot Therapy&#xA;1   Phyrexian Denouncer&#xA;1   Plague Beetle&#xA;1   Rampart Crawler&#xA;1   Scent of Nightshade&#xA;1   Sever Soul&#xA;1   Slinking Skirge&#xA;1   Soul Channeling&#xA;1   Specter's Wail&#xA;1   Squirming Mass&#xA;1   Twisted Experiment&#xA;1   Undertaker&#xA;1   Unearth&#xA;1   Vendetta&#xA;2   Skittering Horror&#xA;&#xA;Other&#xA;1   Junk River&#xA;1   Power Matrix&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some &lt;em&gt;U/R&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;little creatures&lt;/em&gt; with black one-ofs something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a &lt;em&gt;beginner&lt;/em&gt;. Now I'm researching a specific way to &lt;strong&gt;complement&lt;/strong&gt; this set of cards so as to build fun and accessible &lt;strong&gt;duel decks&lt;/strong&gt;(2) to play with a friend. Is it a good idea to look for common cards in competition &lt;a href=&quot;https://old.starcitygames.com/decks/results/format/3/start_date/20-02-2022/end_date/15-05-2022/w_perc/0/g_perc/0/r_perc/0/b_perc/0/u_perc/0/a_perc/0/order_1/finish/limit/25/start_num/0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Legacy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://old.starcitygames.com/decks/results/format/1/start_date/20-02-2022/end_date/15-05-2022/w_perc/0/g_perc/0/r_perc/0/b_perc/0/u_perc/0/a_perc/0/order_1/finish/limit/25/start_num/0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Standard&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; decks for inspiration for hand picking cards in this duel deckbuilding context?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a good strategy to &lt;strong&gt;complement&lt;/strong&gt; the cards I have to make &lt;em&gt;duel decks&lt;/em&gt; while maximizing visual and content diversity and maintaining low cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8301" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditorDisplayName="user8301" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T17:59:01.530" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T17:59:01.530" Title="How to build MtG duel decks out of a set of older cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-09-02T19:48:13.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18771" CreationDate="2014-09-01T19:02:54.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are cases where cards can be turned in during a turn; for example, if conquering another player results in the victor having more than four cards. In this case, the rules say the cards should be redeemed immediately, the new armies placed, and the turn continued. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if someone has started their turn and failed to redeem cards they were required by rule to redeem they should have to do so immediately upon someone noticing. This could provide an advantage because they’ll have the knowledge of how a couple if rounds went, but often armies are all stacked in a giant group. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they finish their turn and no one notices,  when they do ultimately redeem I say they should get the number of armies they were originally entitled to and not a larger number—which would be the case if other players have redeemed since then. The reason is that sandbagging turn ins to get higher army counts is why turn-in at five cards is required in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-09-01T19:02:54.343" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18776" CreationDate="2014-09-02T09:27:34.747" Score="5" ViewCount="16109" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boon%20Satyr&quot;&gt;Boon Satyr&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hyena%20Umbra&quot;&gt;Hyena Umbra&lt;/a&gt; providing totem armor, and an opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fracturing%20Gust&quot;&gt;Fracturing Gust&lt;/a&gt; to destroy all artifacts and more importantly enchantments. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An aura with Totem armor replaces destruction of the enchanted creature with destruction of the aura itself. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boon%20satyr&quot;&gt;Boon satyr&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question may become more important due to the printing of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=End%20Hostilities&quot;&gt;End Hostilities&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T14:51:23.040" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T04:18:52.757" Title="What happens to a creature enchanted with totem armor if both are destroyed at the same time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18775" CreationDate="2014-09-02T10:43:24.207" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the rulings for hyena umbra:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability (such as Planar Cleansing) would destroy both an Aura with totem armor and the permanent it's enchanting at the same time, totem armor's effect will save the enchanted permanent from being destroyed. Instead, the spell or ability will destroy the Aura in two different ways at the same time, but the result is the same as destroying it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastEditorUserId="2007" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T16:15:29.817" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T16:15:29.817" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18775" CreationDate="2014-09-02T14:13:04.803" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For both Fracturing Gust and End Hostilities, only Hyena Umbra will get destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy all Enchantments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy all creatures and all permanents attached to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are effectively&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy Boon Satyr and Hyena Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's only one instruction to destroy, so everything is destroyed simultaneously. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Umbra's ability modifies that instruction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove all damage from Boon Satyr and destroy Hyena Umbra and Hyena Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible for the effect to destroy Hyena Umbra twice, so it only does it once&lt;sup&gt;[CR 400.6]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove all damage from Boon Satyr and destroy Hyena Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you remove all damage from Boon Satyr and destroy Hyena Umbra&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is supported by a ruling on the Umbras&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability (such as Planar Cleansing) would destroy both an Aura with totem armor and the permanent it's enchanting at the same time, totem armor's effect will save the enchanted permanent from being destroyed. Instead, the spell or ability will destroy the Aura in two different ways at the same time, but the result is the same as destroying it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This means that only a single regeneration shield is needed to save Hyena Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Only one Enchantment was destroyed, so you gain two life from the remainder of Fracturing Gust's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T04:18:52.757" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T04:18:52.757" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18762" CreationDate="2014-09-02T14:18:37.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nice way of doing this is to buy 2 packs of &quot;limited&quot; sleeves and use those for your drafts. Put a mark on half of the front of the sleeves (maybe just the letters sb or a symbol. Make sure you put the mark on the front of your sleeve so you cannot see the card is marked) and no mark on the other half of the cards. When you are building your deck after drafting, put your main deck into the unmarked sleeves and the rest of your cards into the marked ones. Now when it comes to de-sideboarding, you can easily look through your deck and pick out the sideboard cards with a quick glance. This does have the drawback of showing your opponent which cards you brought in from your sideboard and which were main deck, but it saves a lot of time and effort de-sideboarding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6671" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T14:18:37.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18773" CreationDate="2014-09-02T17:17:58.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears that what you have is actually two 60 card decks already, plus a few extra cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make a Blue deck and a Black/Red deck with 24 lands and 36 spells in each using your existing cards. In the B/R deck make sure to split your colors in the same ratio as your lands are divided. In both decks try to have at least 2/3 of your spells be creatures.&#xA;I didn't take a close look at your cards to see if there are any synergies or obviously good/bad cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following the above guidelines should get you to a good starting point for the decks. Play them a 5-10 times and then consider if there were any cards that were either far too good (you always win when you resolve it), too bad (you never wanted to cast it), or unfun (maybe Capsize later in the game). Take those cards out and replace them with ones that are more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've done that for a few play sessions then you might consider actually buying cards, either by increasing the count of the cards you like best to 4 (the limit), or by finding a theme or strategy that you like and moving the deck in that direction by cutting cards that don't fit and adding some that do. Searching the internet for &quot;mtg {cardname} combo&quot; or &quot;mtg {cardname} deck&quot; will often yield results that will give you some specific cards to look at. It appears to me that perhaps you are asking how to do this step, and really the answer is that you have to play the decks to find out what you like or don't like about them- there are thousands of cards that could be added to each deck, and each one will take it in a different direction. The one person who is qualified to determine what you like or don't about your decks is you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have selected some cards that you'd like to buy, you can find them lots of places online simply by searching for &quot;buy mtg {cardname}&quot;. Do compare prices of the cards and shipping- online stores often have wildly different prices. Retalier aggregators like TCGPlayer can be useful in this regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="5912" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T19:41:30.740" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T19:41:30.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2014-09-02T18:46:14.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most economical way I know of is to peruse eBay or some other commerce site that sells what is commonly called a &quot;Core Completion Set&quot; or something similarly named. In essence, someone has accumulated extra copies of the 1x and/or 2x cards from the Core set and is offering them for sale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common practice for players starting to get serious into Netrunner is to simply buy a second Core set, but I'd personally look into finding a Completion Set from a highly rated seller first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7531" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T18:46:14.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18835" CreationDate="2014-09-02T21:15:18.927" Score="5" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nancy controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hyena%20Umbra&quot;&gt;Hyena Umbra&lt;/a&gt;. Hyena Umbra has a regeneration shield, granted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reknit&quot;&gt;Reknit&lt;/a&gt;. Anthony casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Planar%20Cleansing&quot;&gt;Planar Cleansing&lt;/a&gt;. This causes two replacement effects to apply. According to rule 616, Nancy gets to choose the order in which they apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;616.1.&lt;/strong&gt; If two or more replacement effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object, the affected object's controller chooses one to apply [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;616.1d&lt;/strong&gt; Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Nancy chooses to apply Totem Armor first, and then Regeneration Shield, does Hyena Umbra survive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:59:14.680" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T10:59:14.680" Title="If a single effect would destroy a permanent multiple times, can regeneration replace it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2014-09-02T21:42:05.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, expanding on the line of reasoning from Ikegami in that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18775/what-happens-to-a-creature-enchanted-with-totem-armor-if-both-are-destroyed-at-t&quot;&gt;other question&lt;/a&gt;, the events produced by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPlanar%20Cleansing%5d&quot;&gt;Planar Cleansing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy all nonland permanents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are effectively &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRuneclaw%20Bear%5d&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; and destroy &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHyena%20Umbra%5d&quot;&gt;Hyena Umbra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totem armor can replace the first event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Remove all damage from Runeclaw Bear and destroy Hyena Umbra) and destroy Hyena Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the lone regeneration shield can only replace one of the &quot;destroy Hyena Umbra&quot; events. It doesn't matter which. The result then becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove all damage from Runeclaw Bear and remove all damage from Hyena Umbra and tap it and destroy Hyena Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Hyena Umbra is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you aren't convinced that the two destruction events are treated separately, rule 400.6 clearly states that they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that multiple instances of the same thing may be mutually exclusive; for example, two simultaneous “destroy” effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T01:50:07.827" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18786" CreationDate="2014-09-02T23:32:59.957" Score="-2" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the expansion symbol from &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/extra/card/face-the-hydra/hydra-head.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Face the Hydra set&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/awQ4M.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Face the Hydra Hydra Head Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-02T23:58:12.530" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T23:58:12.530" Title="What is the expansion symbol of Face the Hydra set?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18785" CreationDate="2014-09-02T23:39:22.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK. So it is actually the Theros one reused in FTH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2014-09-02T23:39:22.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18789" CreationDate="2014-09-03T04:33:42.390" Score="2" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a control player, there are times where it takes a while to resolve the first game, and there are many times where I'm up a game. Are there any rulings against stonewalling the opponent and not taking any steps to end the game while playing at a reasonable pace? I feel prompted to ask this in light of Channel Fireball's article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/silvestri-says-its-time-to-stamp-out-slow-play/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silvestri Says – It’s Time to Stamp Out Slow Play&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T05:29:59.190" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T05:29:59.190" Title="Stalling/Slow Play and Control" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18788" CreationDate="2014-09-03T05:16:52.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no rule against playing so that the game as a whole progresses slowly, as long as you take all of your actions in a timely manner. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; describe slow play (in section 5.5) as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players must take their turns in a timely fashion regardless of the complexity of the play situation and adhere to time limits specified for the tournament. Players must maintain a pace to allow the match to be finished in the announced time limit. Stalling is not acceptable. Players may ask a judge to watch their game for slow play; such a request will be granted if feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this rule is primarily concerned with turn length and the pace of play. Stalling in this case means not taking any action or passing, such as by staring at your hand without actually playing anything on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this seems a little ambiguous, the Competitive REL &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;infraction procedure guide&lt;/a&gt; describes slow play more simply (in section 3.3) as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player takes longer than is reasonably required to complete game actions... It is also slow play if a player continues to execute a loop without being able to provide an exact number of iterations and the expected resulting game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you are completing game actions and turns in a timely manner, you won't break this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T05:16:52.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10782" CreationDate="2014-09-03T10:42:53.940" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I don't have the actual token I like to use the blank advertising cards that I sometimes get in boosters instead of tokens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing that you can always order packs of tokens for fairly cheap on eBay if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T10:42:53.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:01:53.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.learngo.co.uk/Joseki.php?Sequence=4-4,6-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.learngo.co.uk/Joseki.php?Sequence=4-4,6-4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is the best in the sense that you immediately see how the board will look like afterwards, so you can choose proper Joseki according to your current context. But some Josekis (like 5-3) are unfortunatelly missing there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T13:01:53.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18794" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18808" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:02:18.487" Score="5" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the engineers limited to only 3 bridges?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this just as confirmation. I can't find this anywhere in the rules, but I suppose it's so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T19:52:31.943" Title="Engineers : only 3 bridges" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18824" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:18:18.117" Score="5" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a problem with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.learngo.co.uk/Joseki.php?Sequence=4-4,6-4&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;4-4 high approach joseki&lt;/a&gt; - the left variant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrgvB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the left variant, black ends the joseki and white can play anywhere else, i.e. has sente. But the position is pretty weak for white! Black can invade at 6-1, leaving white in a very bad position - it takes a lot of points from white and it seems like the two white stones at 4-3 and 5-3 will not form any kind of territory and are pretty much useless. So it seems that the Joseki shouldn't end here but fix the position by playing 4-2 for white, leaving the black in sente.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I wrong? Why is this joseki ending in this weak position?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T13:26:02.717" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T20:51:23.680" Title="4-4 high approach joseki incomplete?" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18798" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:36:19.807" Score="3" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on a multimedia presentation (a series of images with an audio of explanation; video can be used too but should be less than the images) about Magic The Gathering. The scope is to explain to an audience of new players, who don't know anything about the game, the basis about how to play a game; it should be a replacement for the &lt;code&gt;MtG Basic Rulebook&lt;/code&gt; that shops giveaway during the Magic Celebration event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found that the Rulebook is structured in a way some concepts have to be explained more than once and in different parts of it (e.g. the stack is introduced under the &quot;sorcery&quot; section, partially explained under &quot;the stack&quot; section and further information can be found under &quot;casting a spell&quot;). I would love to be more clear and consistent in my work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the structure I'm thinking about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1.  The basics&#xA;    a.  What is MtG&#xA;    b.  Parts of a card&#xA;    c.  Tapping&#xA;    d.  Making mana&#xA;2.  Card types&#xA;    a.  Land&#xA;    b.  Creature&#xA;    c.  Sorcery&#xA;    d.  Instant&#xA;    e.  Enchantment&#xA;        i.  Aura&#xA;    f.  Artifact&#xA;        i.  Equipment&#xA;    g.  Planeswalker&#xA;3.  Game zones&#xA;    a.  Library&#xA;    b.  Hand&#xA;    c.  Battlefield&#xA;    d.  Graveyard&#xA;    e.  Exile&#xA;4.  Basic playing&#xA;    a.  The stack&#xA;    b.  How to cast a spell&#xA;    c.  Attacking and blocking&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm still not convinced: the stack is one of the most important concepts of the game, yet one of the most difficult to understand. It's required to understand how cards interact, thus it should be explained before the card types, but if done this way people learn about the stack without knowing what a card is. The same problem happens with the concept of tapping, which requires knowing what a card is but is one of the first things to say when taking about the mana, lands and attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a reasonable order, or is there possibly a better structure for the presentation? When should I present tapping, and the stack? &lt;strong&gt;And why?&lt;/strong&gt; Please remember that the audience has never heard of MtG and thus knows nothing about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6681" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T23:25:50.243" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T13:07:54.630" Title="In what order should I present the basics of Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|teaching|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-09-04T01:46:47.597" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5490" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:39:24.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice one with discussion of the positions is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Joseki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Joseki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This page is referred to as a source by Josekipedia.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GendaiJosekiJiten&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?GendaiJosekiJiten&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not actually sure what that is, if it is equal to &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Joseki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Joseki&lt;/a&gt; or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T13:39:24.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18796" CreationDate="2014-09-03T13:54:42.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start simple, build their knowledge step by step and only introduce new concepts when they're comfortable with what's gone before.  When I introduce a new player, I &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; start with the basics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MtG is a card game using a deck of shuffled cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The colours of magic and their themes (Red - destruction, blue - subversion, green - power etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The types of cards - creatures, instants, sorceries, artifacts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life totals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to win the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creature and spell damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phases of a round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that information, a person can watch a game and more or less understand what's going on, without having to understand all the complexities.  After watching a few games, most players can start to step through games at which point, they learn by making mistakes. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8445" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T13:54:42.980" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18803" CreationDate="2014-09-03T15:44:38.390" Score="2" ViewCount="671" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically the title. A situation where this would matter. If I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05004&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;House of Knives&lt;/a&gt; scored and my opponent runs into &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05017&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kominu&lt;/a&gt; with no breaker can I use the House of Knives ability after he loses all his cards but before he has a chance to jack out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T17:37:52.503" Title="Is there a paid ability window before the runner can jack out after the last subroutine executes on a piece of ice?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18802" CreationDate="2014-09-03T15:58:17.230" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, yes there is a window at 4.1 (before the runner decides to jack out after passing the last piece of ICE), or at 4.3 if the runner decides to continue.  If Komainu has another piece of ICE behind it, 2.1 also provides an opportunity for House of Knives to strike before the runner jacks out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The run timing chart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Runner starts, names server.&#xA;If there's ICE, goto 2.&#xA;If no ice, goto 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Approach outermost ICE.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.1. Paid ability can be used&lt;/strong&gt; (can be used if there is another ICE behind Komainu, and also kicks in before runner has a chance to jack out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.2. Jack out (Goto 6, cannot jack out if first piece of ICE encountered this run) or continue to 2.3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.3. Approached ICE can be rezzed, Paid ability can be used cards can be rezzed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2.4. Check if ICE is rezzed.&#xA;If rezzed, goto 3.&#xA;If unrezzed, and there's another piece of ICE, goto 2.&#xA;If unrezzed, and there's no more ICE, go to 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Runner Encounters Ice if rezzed.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.1. Icebreakers can interact, Paid abilities can be used&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3.2. Resolve all unbroken subroutines&#xA;...Either the run ends, goto 6&#xA;Or it continues, and there's another piece of ICE, goto 2.&#xA;Or it continues, and there's no more ICE, go to 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Runner approaches attacked server&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.1. Paid abilities can be used.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.2. Runner decides:&#xA;To jack out, go to 6 or to continue, go to 4.3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.3. Paid abilities may be used, cards may be rezzed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4.4. Run is successful. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;4.5. Access cards. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;Agenda : Stolen (Unless additional cost)&#xA;Trash cost present : may be paid to trash&#xA;Everything not trashed or stolen is returned to server.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run ends. Trigger abilities if any.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Run is unsuccessful. Trigger abilities if any.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T17:37:52.503" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T17:37:52.503" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18768" CreationDate="2014-09-03T16:32:44.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only tribe members (&quot;people&quot;) may fight in a skirmish, so the only player that is actually involved in the skirmish is the player that had the tribe member card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you need to win a skirmish by 2 (when playing with only two players), and the tribe members have 0 attack,  the outcome of the above example skirmish would be considered a draw and the contested card would go to the junk pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T18:09:04.643" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T18:09:04.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18805" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-03T16:41:41.027" Score="1" ViewCount="17482" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only some of the room cards say &quot;Destory this room (and other stuff happens)&quot; on them. But when can I destroy a room? Does it have to be on my turn, or can I do it when heroes are in walking through another player's dungeon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:47:45.087" Title="When can I destroy a room?" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18807" CreationDate="2014-09-03T18:08:12.710" Score="2" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the three games seen above and to the right of Tom Vasel, between Twilight Struggle and Goa? Looks like a series called Ancients or with &quot;Ancients&quot; in the title. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vECwC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;ancients?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T18:51:24.627" Title="What are these games?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18806" CreationDate="2014-09-03T18:51:24.627" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like games from the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/14105/commands-colors-ancients&quot;&gt;Commands and Colors: Ancients&lt;/a&gt;&quot; series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would assume that one is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/p-499-commands-colors-ancients-5th-printing.aspx&quot;&gt;base game&lt;/a&gt; and the other two are expansions, likely &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/p-338-c-c-ancients-exp-combo-pack-2-3-reprint-editions.aspx&quot;&gt;Rome vs. Barbarians&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/p-338-c-c-ancients-exp-combo-pack-2-3-reprint-editions.aspx&quot;&gt;Roman Civil War&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T18:51:24.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18794" CreationDate="2014-09-03T19:52:31.943" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they are still limited to 3. Though the rulebook does not seems to mention this specifically in regards to engineers, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you can only build a total of three Bridges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And nothing in the section about engineers says otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T19:52:31.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21094" CreationDate="2014-09-03T22:49:29.917" Score="0" ViewCount="56" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a Fate card gains the Expendable keyword, as in the example of &lt;a href=&quot;http://imperialassembly.com/oracle/#cardid=10733,#hashid=32635fe671ac1eed778354b03b9f4495,#cardcount=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Holding Cells&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://imperialassembly.com/oracle/#cardid=11647,#hashid=eb8825d7095c927657a2a44968f84390,#cardcount=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kobi Sensei&lt;/a&gt;, does playing the card form hand trigger the Expendable keyword?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this affect a Kata or Allegiance with Expendable, as they do enter play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8449" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-03T22:52:10.253" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:53:30.433" Title="What happens when Fate Cards become Expendable in Ivory Edition?" Tags="|legend-of-the-five-rings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2014-09-03T23:32:41.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am somewhat new to this game, but from my experience, I have found that if the UK buys only infantry the first round, it prevents any possibility from Germany invading UK second turn.  Russia is a tough country to take when a good strategy is implemented, however, if Germany takes most of it quick enough, the allies could be too late.  Keep slowly retreating with the Germans paying for every territory heavily.  Buy only infantry, and mass expensive units in Moscow, counterattacking when the Nazis get to close to the capital.  Try to not let the Germans take ANY of your factories, because then they have to continue producing ONLY out of Germany and West Germany if they don't build any factories along the borders.  If the US can be landing in Africa by turn 3, then landing in Italy turn 5 or 6, the UK can then probably start liberating France.  Once the other allies have started landing units in Europe, start pushing back against the Germans.  Do not try to liberate your territories before the allies have made landings in Europe.  There is no winter in this game, so your Germans will not be destroyed by weather.  The Soviets are not strong enough to push the Germans out of Russia without the Nazis having divert some of their now damaged income to the west.  That's all I got.  Thanks!  I hope this helps! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8451" LastActivityDate="2014-09-03T23:32:41.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18814" CreationDate="2014-09-04T00:40:19.583" Score="4" ViewCount="1669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing 7 Wonders with the Cities and Leaders expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If your neighbours has less science buildings than you have mask, then I assume you cannot use them all. You can only copy the symbol of 1 building once?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If one of your neighbours has a leader which carries a symbol, can you copy this?7&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8439" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T08:32:36.927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T08:32:36.927" Title="7 wonders: copying science" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18815" CreationDate="2014-09-04T03:09:28.607" Score="3" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=147428&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boartusk Liege&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=26840&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dralnu's Crusade&lt;/a&gt; in play. Boartusk Liege gives all other red creatures +1/+1 and Dralnu's Crusade says &quot;all Goblins are black and are Zombies in addition to their other creature types&quot;. I assume that means that Boartusk Liege does not give +1/+1 to Goblins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T03:18:33.187" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T04:55:15.223" Title="Will Boartusk Liege give +1/+1 to Goblins if Dralnu's Crusade is in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18811" CreationDate="2014-09-04T03:40:50.870" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the game, each mask allows the controlling player to copy the scientific symbol of a green card present in one of the two neighboring cities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a player possesses multiple [mask] symbols, he or she can only copy a given card once, and must thus copy as many different cards as they have [mask] symbols.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player can copy two identical cards (if they have enough masks) if both neighboring cities have a copy (copy a Workshop card in the left city and a second Workshop card in the right city).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: At the end of the game, Alex has 2 cards with the [mask] symbol. The player to his left only has one green card, with the compass symbol. The player to his right has played no green cards. Alex’s first [mask] therefore counts as a [compass] symbol, but his second [mask] is useless as there are no other symbols to copy. If the player to the left of Alex had had 2 green cards with a [compass] symbol each, Alex’s 2 masks could’ve counted as [compass].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the wording is pretty clear. For each mask symbol you control, you may copy the symbol of a single green card owned by either adjacent player. Hence,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not copy the same building, even if you have more masks than buildings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may not copy the symbol on a leader, since they are not a building / green card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T03:40:50.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18813" CreationDate="2014-09-04T03:49:26.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct: when both cards are in play, Boartusk Liege does not give Goblins +1/+1. A ruling on Dralnu's Crusade says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Goblins are both Goblins and Zombies and they are black (they lose their previous color(s)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they lose their previous colors, they are not red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards to how this works in general, rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Colors_(rules)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;105.3&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Effects may change an object's color or give a color to a colorless object. If an effect gives an object a new color, &lt;strong&gt;the new color replaces all previous colors the object had&lt;/strong&gt; (unless the effect said the object became that color &quot;in addition&quot; to its other colors). Effects may also make a colored object become colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that the Goblin doesn't get +1/+1 from Boartusk Liege before you change its color to black is that Magic uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a layer system&lt;/a&gt; to determine in what order effects get applied. Effects that change color are on layer 5 and effects that change power and toughness are on layer 7, so the color changing effects get applied first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T04:55:15.223" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T04:55:15.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18817" CreationDate="2014-09-04T04:31:56.600" Score="12" ViewCount="17569" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played a game of Spades with some family. The Ace of clubs was led on the first trick, and I was out of clubs. Needing quite a few tricks, I chose to trump. My fellow players instantly responded with complaints about a rule that the first trick cannot be trumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, house rules can always be in play. My question is whether this is a common rule to play by, or if this is relatively unheard of. I've been unable to find any sources online that indicate forbidding this action. Is this a common rule to play by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mainly I'm looking for grounds for opening the next game with stating explicitly, &quot;Trumping the first trick is legal, as long as you meet the normal requirements,&quot; hopefully adding, &quot;That is the way almost everyone plays,&quot; to avoid this sort of dispute again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8453" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-11-27T15:13:38.020" LastActivityDate="2023-12-23T19:39:44.983" Title="Can you trump the first trick in Spades?" Tags="|house-rules|spades|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18816" CreationDate="2014-09-04T05:51:59.140" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No trumping the first trick is definitely a house rule, insofar as rules for the game actually exist (there are no official ones). It's hard to say exactly how common it is; for what it's worth I think most people I've played spades with used it. But I haven't found it listed as an actual rule in any of the versions of the rules I've found. So sure, you could call it &quot;just&quot; a house rule, but at the same time, there are obviously people out there successfully playing spades with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can you? Depends who you play with. And honestly, even if we could take a quick representative poll, it doesn't matter that much what most people do. It matters how you and your family want to play. If you want to try to talk them into your version, go for it. Or you can just play their way; it's not going to drastically warp the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real problem you had this game was that different people had different versions of the rules in their head, and you didn't find out until you were actually playing, not necessarily that anyone's version was clearly right or wrong. You can avoid the dispute simply by settling on a rule before you play; no need to get into a big argument about what the correct rules are, or annoy anyone by flat-out stating that your rules are &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T16:50:37.560" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T16:50:37.560" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18816" CreationDate="2014-09-04T13:27:51.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never heard of the &quot;No trump on first trick&quot; rule. I've heard that you can't lead with spades until they've been broken (trumping someone else's trick). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you? Have to agree with Jefromi's response on this one. But your idea going forward would help alleviate any stress mid-hand. You could also announce all other house rules (if any) before dealing the first hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually deal the first hand, and while I'm shuffling I go through the rundown, even with people I have played with before. &quot;First hand bids itself, Joker-Joker-Deuce-Ace for high spades, blind 6 after you're down 100 points&quot; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T13:27:51.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18805" CreationDate="2014-09-04T13:32:59.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &quot;Detailed Play Sequence&quot; helps clarify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroying a room isn't something you can just &quot;do&quot;.  During the build and adventure phases you can take actions either through playing a spell or using a room's ability, and the cost for those actions might involve destroying a room.  This means that any time you can take an action, you might end up destroying a room.  This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/160062995/Boss-Monster-Detailed-Play-Sequence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Detailed Play Sequence&quot;&lt;/a&gt; helps clarify this.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may play a Spell or Room Ability when another player is active,&#xA;  but they can react with their own Spells and Room Abilities, and those&#xA;  resolve before your effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Build phase ends when Rooms are revealed. Build effects (&quot;When you&#xA;  build this Room...&quot;) and Level Up powers take place immediately, in XP&#xA;  order. No Spells or activated abilities may be played until the&#xA;  Adventure Phase begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions can be used on any player's turn during the build or adventure phases. If multiple players want to take an action at the same time, the current player always has their actions take priority, and then the rest are resolved in XP order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the build phase, you generally take actions when it is your turn to select a room.  At this point you are the current player, so nobody else can interrupt your action (except to counter it).  You are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; allowed to use build phase actions after rooms are revealed, so you can't play a room and then immediately destroy it before the bait phase.  The only thing that happens after rooms are revealed is &quot;Level Up&quot; and &quot;When you build this room&quot; effects, followed immediately by the bait phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the adventure phase, each time the heroes move to a different room, there is an opportunity for any player to use an action. The player that owns the dungeon the heroes are in is the current player, so their actions will have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-12-10T14:47:45.087" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:47:45.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18821" CreationDate="2014-09-04T14:13:30.767" Score="9" ViewCount="3481" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my collection is a Magic card printed in a language other than English. How can I determine which card this is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-09-04T16:25:24.650" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T16:01:03.147" Title="How do I identify non-English Magic cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2020-08-08T17:30:53.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18820" CreationDate="2014-09-04T14:13:30.767" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, if you are able to type in the name, just search for the name using &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scryfall&lt;/a&gt;. It accepts non-English names (in part and in whole). Typing the name without accents &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/card/jou/1/fr/%C3%A9gide-des-dieux&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;works&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can scan or photograph the card, another easy way of identifying the card is to submit it to &lt;a href=&quot;https://images.google.com/imghp?gws_rd=ssl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Google Image Search&lt;/a&gt; (click the camera). This will find pages about that card, and these will surely tell you its name. (In fact, you might very well get the card's Gatherer page.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, determining to which set it belongs would greatly narrow down the search space. For at least 15 years, Wizards has been placing a set icon on the card. Wizard maintains a &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/planeswalker-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt; of the icons for the proper sets, but this doesn't include the special sets (e.g. duel decks). A quick search reveals that TCGPlayer maintains a comprehensive &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20200501205120/http://magic.tcgplayer.com:80/all_magic_sets.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list&lt;/a&gt;. If you have a card that predates the set icon, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/5121/2880&quot;&gt;this earlier post&lt;/a&gt; will allow you to determine the set to which it belongs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with the set, obtain the card number from the small print at the bottom of the card. Locate the set (in the appropriate language) on &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; and locate the card by its number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the number is illegible, you can still easy locate the card by looking at all the cards in the set with the correct casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This approach may fail for promo cards. If this is what you have, the copyright date can help you narrow down the search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all else fail, please provide a scan of the image.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-09T16:01:03.147" LastActivityDate="2022-06-09T16:01:03.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18816" CreationDate="2014-09-04T14:52:13.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, both in Spades and Hearts,  I've seen the &quot;no trump on first trick&quot; rule used if and only if the &quot;must lead Clubs on first trick&quot; rule is in place.  This keeps wisacres from setting up a forced situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I prefer to allow the opposite rule pair, i.e. no restrictions on (non-trump) suit  leads for the first trick, and trump/dumping allowed on the first trick as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the overarching rule is:  make the rules clear before the first deal.  Otherwise gunfire may result (Han shot first :-)  )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7810" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T14:52:13.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-04T14:53:34.673" Score="3" ViewCount="753" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many cards from the RTR block and M14 that I want just for my collection and not for play (maybe just some casual play), for example, I would like to buy a Domri Rade and a Kalonian Hydra. Right now the prices for these and many other cards are reasonable but I am not in a hurry to buy NOW since I only want the cards for my collection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my case, when is the best moment to buy the cards? I have read some people saying that NOW is the best moment, but in other places I also have read that maybe it would be wise to wait until the release or pre release week for Khans, while others suggest to wait until December.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on your experience, what do you recommend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3291" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T12:48:13.437" Title="Is it now a good time to buy rotating Magic Cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2014-09-05T02:05:05.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2014-09-04T15:22:52.403" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, simply playing joseki does not mean the result will be even (or even good for you) &lt;em&gt;on a given board&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A joseki is a sequence that is considered as often optimal given a particular situation. If the situation changes, a joseki which was fine before might suddenly become a terrible choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation depends on the whole board. In particular, ladder breakers have a huge impact, as does thickness (or the opposite, existing weak groups). Lots of other stuff can be considered in addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high approach and the following moves are, to my knowledge, pretty much exclusive to only two situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As a ko threat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To enforce central and top side influence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If played as a ko threat, the situation is completely different, and white will certainly not continue locally in case black answers. Thus I'll talk about point 2 only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is played for instance when white already has a lot of central influence and feels compelled to expand it at any cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Comparison with the low approach&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let us suppose this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.1...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...2.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Approaching high instead of low mostly removes the possibility to invade at 3-3, because there is no good connection between 6-4 and 3-3 possible. If it were low, a connection would be easier to achieve in good shape: Contrast white 1 with white a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..3..a.......&#xA;$$ |...X.1...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...2.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, black can block at 2 and draw back to 4, which leaves white in an uncomfortable position that is actually not easy to live (depends on a ladder). Either way black will get great influence, which is contradictory to white's initial move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..12.........&#xA;$$ |.3.X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.4.X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain, but black might possibly consider simply drawing back, to continue with a or b to harass the white shape, which would not be possible if white had approached low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..13ab.......&#xA;$$ |..2X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we see that the high approach has less nice continuations locally. Why is it ever played then? Because sometimes we don't really care about the corner! We are rather interested in the center and top side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.....1.2.....&#xA;$$ |...X....a,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had we played low, black could easily pincer us with a move like 2 or somewhere around a. It would then be reasonable to enter the corner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.....7.......&#xA;$$ |..35.1.2.....&#xA;$$ |..4X6....,...&#xA;$$ |......8......&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now black controls the outside and possibly the top side, while we &quot;only&quot; got some comfortable corner territory. We will see why this is not always good for black below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.......a.....&#xA;$$ |...X.1.b.,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to pincer around a or b instead of responding, but this pincer has much weaker continuations. White has a bunch of options how to continue, and it will be very difficult to refuse white center access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.....1.2.....&#xA;$$ |...X.4...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the low approach, it would be questionable to tenuki. Black can connect his stones and gain a quite strong outside shape once he covers white with 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of additional variations of importance here, but I'll leave them to you do discover. I'll now try to answer the actual question :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;After joseki&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..4..........&#xA;$$ |..213....5...&#xA;$$ |...X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above situation, white established a reasonable base for herself. As we found out earlier, black will usually follow a path similar to this, so white can expect this result with rather high probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.....a.......&#xA;$$ |..X..........&#xA;$$ |..XOO..b.O...&#xA;$$ |...X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We discussed that white will only chose the high approach if she is fine with yielding local profit. We can assume white to have more influence in the other quarters of the board, possibly a large framework of stones on the fourth row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You correctly recognized that black 4 is a very big move - if white were to play there, the corner territory white is very important in endgame would be white's. At the same time, 4 opens up continuations against white, which we will look at now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |...5314......&#xA;$$ |..X..26......&#xA;$$ |..XOO....O...&#xA;$$ |...X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start with the monkey jump. I would expect something similar to the above line. White is confined to a narrow space, and locally, it seems like white is too tight. However, white was also made quite strong - the white group will find life without problems (possibly playing a tiger mouth shape with 6 instead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White being strong means black won't have a target to attack, which further implies black won't be able to start a running battle with a white group. A running battle might be a great way to destroy white's framework (which we implied earlier). Black might be a little sad to lose this opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case everything else on the board is settled and black is winning, the monkey jump is likely a good idea. Just don't play it too early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..X..........&#xA;$$ |..XOO..1.O.a.&#xA;$$ |...X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could also invade at 1. This invasion may be difficult to handle for white. This means that black should consider this option instead of blindly monkey-jumping and forcing white to become very solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My knowledge of this particular shape is too thin to explain much about it. You may be interested in looking it up or exploring it in your games. Obviously, a stone around a will be greatly helpful for b. I would consider a checking extension to a as probably sente for black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are other invasions to consider in addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..X.....e....&#xA;$$ |..XOO.c.dO.a.&#xA;$$ |...X.Ob..,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black b or c are conceivable. With support at a, black can also think about moves like d or e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white is afraid of an invasion, she might simply extend less far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..4..........&#xA;$$ |..213...5....&#xA;$$ |...X.O...,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 5 being one space closer, it will be almost impossible to invade. However, white had to slow down her speed considerably, and obviously the monkey jump will leave white even more concentrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Result&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found that white will only play the initial joseki if she strives for certain influence. Locally, white is worse off. If white is not fine with that (i.e. the influence is not worth it), then white should simply not pick the high approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your proposed move at 4-2 is large yose and also somewhat strengthens the white group. However, it would be contrary to white's original goal and thus should only be played later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Variation&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it is also possible to play a high extension (this applies to quite a lot of josekis, actually).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ --------------&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |..4..........&#xA;$$ |..213........&#xA;$$ |...X.O..5,...&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;$$ |...X.........&#xA;$$ |.............&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once space closer and higher is fine as well. Obviously, this aims even more for the center. White is unlikely to gain much territory at all in this situation, but she won't care, because her whole attention is on the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T14:59:49.413" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T14:59:49.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18820" CreationDate="2014-09-04T16:00:39.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually do a gatherer search. You can do an advanced search and refine by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artist&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set (if you recognize the symbol)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Converted Mana Cost (CMC)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power/Toughness if it has them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8458" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T16:00:39.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18827" CreationDate="2014-09-04T17:42:12.597" Score="0" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/791186/team-play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This source&lt;/a&gt; suggests any action which causes a monetary loss to everyone does not affect your partner. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8439" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-26T02:38:34.343" LastActivityDate="2017-03-26T02:38:34.343" Title="Does monetary loss to everyone not affect your partner?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18826" CreationDate="2014-09-04T17:50:05.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are playing by the official Cities rules, it clearly states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player puts in play a card which causes a monetary loss, the&#xA;  player’s  teammate must also pay that loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thread you are referencing is talking about differences between the official rules and some unofficial team rules, stating that in their unofficial rules, the teammate does not have to pay the loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T17:50:05.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18823" CreationDate="2014-09-04T18:43:28.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I would wait a little bit. As soon as Khans of Tarkir hits shelves, the demand for cards from RTR block will drop as it will no longer be legal in standard, so I would buy RTR cards like a week after the Khans release to wait for the prices to drop/become stable. You can most likely safely buy M14 as a lot of it has been reprinted, and it is close to rotation as well. It's prices appear to have stabilized and won't change much in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8418" LastEditorUserId="8418" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T12:48:13.437" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T12:48:13.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18823" CreationDate="2014-09-04T22:27:22.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is based on the very weak assumption that history will repeat itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this answer was written, cards rotated once per year. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&quot;&gt;Wizards of the Coast is moving to two rotations per year&lt;/a&gt;. This will drastically change the pattern described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Innistrad was the first set of a block that rotated in &lt;strong&gt;October 2013&lt;/strong&gt;. The rares and mythics that are not seeing play in Modern or Legacy from that set trended towards an all time low around &lt;strong&gt;December 2013&lt;/strong&gt; before finally beginning to rise due to being out of print. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If&lt;/em&gt; Return to Ravnica follows the same pattern, the rares and mythics from the set that are not seeing play in Modern or Legacy will trend towards an all time low around &lt;strong&gt;December 2014&lt;/strong&gt; before finally beginning to rise due to being out of print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used the price history line charts on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tcgplayer.com/&quot;&gt;TCGPlayer.com&lt;/a&gt; as a reference. I used my own experience to determine what cards see play in Modern and Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-09-04T22:27:22.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18831" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18832" CreationDate="2014-09-05T00:41:02.230" Score="4" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=193398&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Monument&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Myr Servitor&lt;/a&gt; on the board. Is the following play legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My upkeep begins.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Eldrazi Monument and Myr Servitor trigger at the same time, so I put the Servitor's ability on the stack first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I resolve the Monument's effect by sacrificing the Servitor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I resolve the Servitor's effect by returning it to play.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7755" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T00:47:26.707" Title="Can a single Myr Servitor save itself when sacrificed to Eldrazi Monument?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18831" CreationDate="2014-09-05T00:47:26.707" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Myr Servitor's ability has an intervening &quot;if&quot; clause (&quot;if Myr Servitor is on the battlefield&quot;), and whether this clause is true is checked both when the ability triggers and when it tries to resolve.  By the time it tries to resolve, the Myr Servitor won't be on the battlefield, and so the ability won't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read &quot;When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].&quot; When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the &quot;intervening ‘if’ clause&quot; rule. (The word &quot;if&quot; has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an &quot;if&quot; that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T00:47:26.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18834" CreationDate="2014-09-05T07:43:42.867" Score="7" ViewCount="2096" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday on MTGO an ability didn't trigger and I don't understand why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366441&quot;&gt;Experiment One&lt;/a&gt; in play, with one +1/+1 counter on it, so it was 2/2. Experiment One has Evolve &lt;em&gt;(Whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, if that creature has greater power or toughness than this creature, put a +1/+1 counter on this creature)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=262671&quot;&gt;Strangleroot Geist&lt;/a&gt;, without counters. It has Undying &lt;em&gt;(When this creature dies, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it, return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strangleroot Geist then died. So it goes. Its ability triggered, and it returned to the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it, making it 3/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I expected Experiment One's ability to trigger, as it is 2/2 and a 3/2 enters the battlefield, but it didn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T14:38:28.230" Title="Why did Experiment One not get a counter when my Undying creature returned to play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18833" CreationDate="2014-09-05T08:04:36.853" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, it should have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the ruling for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366441&quot;&gt;Experiment One&lt;/a&gt; it clearly stats: &#xA;If a creature enters the battlefield with +1/+1 counters on it, consider those counters when determining if evolve will trigger. For example, a 1/1 creature that enters the battlefield with two +1/+1 counters on it will cause the evolve ability of a 2/2 creature to trigger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should report this bug to the MTGO support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T08:04:36.853" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2014-09-05T13:34:31.163" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I copied the answer from &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/comment/42883556#comment-42883556&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, where a similar question was answered by Daniel Kitachewsky. Daniel is a high-level Judge from France, and the goto-guy when judges don't know the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Planar Cleansing resolves and destroys all creatures, artifacts and enchantments.&#xA;  I have a Runeclaw Bears enchanted with Boar Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The replacement effect of the totem armor saves the Bears, but if I have a way to regenerate the totem armor, will I have to regenerate it once or twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are two regeneration shields, the Bear Umbra is regenerated no matter what.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's only one regeneration shield on it, it gets more complicated:&#xA;- If the same player controls Runeclaw Bear and Bear Umbra, that player may choose whether the Bear Umbra is destroyed or not.&#xA;- If the active player controls Runeclaw Bear and the nonactive player controls Bear Umbra, the Bear Umbra is regenerated.&#xA;- If the active player controls Bear Umbra and the nonactive player controls Runeclaw Bear, the Bear Umbra is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that we have an event that's trying to move objects from one zone to another, and some replacement effects trying to change that event. Moreover, when two effects try to do mutually exclusive things to an object, such as destroying it twice, only one of these effects continues to exists, before being modified by further replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. In the scenario where one player controls both Runeclaw Bear and Bear Umbra, the event looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A1. Destroy Runeclaw Bear, destroy Bear Umbra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things try to replace this, regenerating the Bear Umbra and replacing destroying Runeclaw Bear by destroying Bear Umbra. The controller chooses which replacement effect to apply first; we'll see later if the other effect is still applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the controller chooses to apply regeneration first, we get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A2a. Destroy Runeclaw Bear, tap Bear Umbra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;replaced thanks to totem armor by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A3a. Destroy Bear Umbra, tap Bear Umbra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ultimately destroying Bear Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the controller chooses to apply totem armor first, we get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A2b. Destroy Bear Umbra, destroy Bear Umbra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;modified into&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A3b. Destroy Bear Umbra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;because destroying an object twice is impossible, then replaced by&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A4b. Tap Bear Umbra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's not destroyed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. If Runeclaw Bear and Bear Umbra are controlled by different players, we fall into one of the scenarios above, but we don't choose which one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The active player applies the replacement effect trying to replace the event that affects the object he contols first, then the nonactive player gets to have his replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the active player controls Runeclaw Bear and the nonactive player controls Bear Umbra, we first apply totem armor, then remove one of the &quot;destroy Bear Umbra&quot; effects, then regenerate it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the active player controls Bear Umbra and the nonactive player controls Runeclaw Bear, we first regenerate Bear Umbra, then apply totem armor, thus destroying Bear Umbra.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8120" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T13:49:25.427" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T13:49:25.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18833" CreationDate="2014-09-05T14:38:28.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is if MTGO isn't processing it as entering with a counter, and rather placing one on after it comes back to the field. I would submit a bug report.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8418" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T14:38:28.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18840" CreationDate="2014-09-05T15:30:25.227" Score="5" ViewCount="416" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Star Wars X-Wing if a ship has an ionising token can it shoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TIE Fighter skill 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-wing skill 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TIE Fighter moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-wing moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Y-wing shoots and scores damage with ion cannon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The TIE hasn't fired yet but it's been ionised. Is it still allowed to return fire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T19:54:04.567" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T19:54:27.280" Title="Can ionised ships return fire?" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18838" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-05T15:30:49.313" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T15:30:49.313" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T15:30:49.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18839" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-05T15:30:49.313" Score="0" Body="Star Wars X-Wing is a miniature game, set in the Star Wars Universe from George Lucas. It was created by Jay Little and published Fantasy Flight games." OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="12452" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T14:26:03.673" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T14:26:03.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18837" CreationDate="2014-09-05T17:21:00.197" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbueK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ion Token reference card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Ion Token reference card, the TIE Fighter would be able to return fire, as you are in the &lt;strong&gt;Combat Phase&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T19:54:27.280" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T19:54:27.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18841" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-05T18:26:01.477" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-05T18:26:01.477" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T18:26:01.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18842" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-05T18:26:01.477" Score="0" Body="This is a fantasy flight board game with mechanics based on their popular Talisman board game" OwnerUserId="8182" LastEditorUserId="8182" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T01:39:42.653" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T01:39:42.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18846" CreationDate="2014-09-05T18:30:43.227" Score="1" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine this: I build Aspasia at the beginning of Age 3. I then bury her for Abu Simbel wonder stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the diplomacy token stay or go with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8439" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T00:32:35.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T00:32:35.487" Title="Aspasia and Abu Simbel" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18845" CreationDate="2014-09-05T18:55:42.497" Score="6" ViewCount="7592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume I'm a level 1 Thief. Is there a limit to the number of times I attempt to steal something? Can I just attempt over and over again until I get the thing? Does it even have to be on my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T19:25:00.003" Title="How many times per turn can a thief steal?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18844" CreationDate="2014-09-05T19:25:00.003" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no limit on attempts per turn, but you do have to discard a card to attempt it, so you can't just attempt forever. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. How often can a Thief steal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. As long as he has cards to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. What happens to a Level 1 Thief who fails an attempt to steal? Does he die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Nothing happens to him. You can't go below Level 1. (Beware the Level 1 Thief – he literally has nothing to lose!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T19:25:00.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18843" CreationDate="2014-09-05T19:40:51.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Quoting from the English rules, from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;linked PDFs&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cities&lt;/em&gt;, page 5, about &lt;strong&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who puts into play a card with the [Diplomacy] symbol takes a Diplomacy token from the bank and places it on their board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cities&lt;/em&gt;, page 8, about &lt;strong&gt;Aspasia&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Aspasia enters play, the player takes a&#xA;  Diplomacy token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wonder Pack&lt;/em&gt;, page 1, about &lt;strong&gt;Abu Simbel’s stage 3&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player can no longer benefit from the chosen Leader’s effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’d say &lt;strong&gt;the Diplomacy token stays on your board&lt;/strong&gt;. After bringing Aspasia into play, the Diplomacy effect gets exectued instantaneously, leaving Aspasia with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a now useless Diplomacy effect, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 VP at game end effect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;both of which stop being active by burying it. But this doesn’t affect any benefits this Leader gave you &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; burying it, and it doesn’t require to rollback anything made possible by this Leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of the other Leaders: Many of them also have instant effects, like Caligula, which allows to build one black card per Age for free. If you’d use its effect and bury it afterwards, you wouldn’t have to get rid of the black card in retrospect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-09-05T19:40:51.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18847" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-05T20:27:23.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players start the game with a Boss card, and are then dealt Room and Spell cards. These cards are used during the game to build and maintain (and sometimes, to sabotage) a 5-room dungeon leading up to the Boss. Rooms have treasure symbols, which attract certain types of Heroes. Each room does a certain amount of damage to the Hero when it enters the room, and the object is to kill the Hero before (s)he reaches your Boss card. When killed, Heroes yield Souls. Obtain 10 and win the game. However, if a Hero survives your dungeon, you take wounds; 5 and you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Tools of Hero-Kind&quot; is the most recently released expansion, offering new Item cards that make Heroes more dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://brotherwisegames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Website&lt;/a&gt; at Brotherwise Games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="6981" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T01:39:45.333" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T01:39:45.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18848" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-05T20:27:23.553" Score="0" Body="A card game for up to four players that simulates an 8-bit style dungeon game. You take on the role of a boss monster and build a dungeon to attract heroes." OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="6981" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T20:07:19.593" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T20:07:19.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20439" CreationDate="2014-09-05T20:28:12.363" Score="3" ViewCount="13492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bidding in spades is one of the hardest mechanics to master. The gameplay comes with experience, but sometimes bidding just goes awry. I know how I bid and that I disagree with the way other people bid (usually because it doesn't work).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general rule of thumb is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an Ace in any suit other than spades, count one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a King in any suit other than spades, count one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Subset: If you only have 2 cards in that suit and the other isn't the Ace, count as a possible&#xA; Subset: IF you have more than 4 cards in that suit, count as a possible&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only have 2 of one suit (other than spades) count 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Subset: Keep track of these spades you would use trumping&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 5 spades, count 1. (Beyond those you would use trumping in your short-suit)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jokers count as 1 (Or Ace and King if no Jokers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T17:56:00.190" Title="How should I teach someone new to spades how to bid?" Tags="|bidding|spades|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18854" CreationDate="2014-09-05T22:38:45.880" Score="1" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I build the Builder's Chambers at the same time as someone builds his first wonder stage, should he be charged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8439" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T04:50:30.677" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T04:50:30.677" Title="7 wonders: builder's chambers" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-05T23:44:48.953" Score="7" ViewCount="14956" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has a trample deck, and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stinkweed%20Imp&quot;&gt;Stinkweed Imp&lt;/a&gt; that says &amp;quot;Whenever Stinkweed Imp deals combat damage to a creature, destroy that creature.&amp;quot;  Can a creature destroyed this way still deal trample damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I block with a creature that actually has deathtouch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8464" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T14:29:13.403" LastActivityDate="2019-03-26T02:11:04.660" Title="Do deathtouch and deathtouch-like effects stop trample damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-03-26T17:10:31.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18851" CreationDate="2014-09-06T00:11:06.720" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combat damage is dealt all at once, and so a creature destroyed by or in response to combat damage will still deal all of its damage, including any trample damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, &lt;strong&gt;all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T00:11:06.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18851" CreationDate="2014-09-06T00:14:09.633" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a creature destroyed by Stinkweed Imp will still deal trample damage. Basically, the sequence of actions in combat goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent attacks with their creature that has trample.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You block that creature with your Stinkweed Imp.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All damage is resolved. This includes the damage dealt to and by Stinkweed Imp, and the trample damage to you. Because Stinkweed Imp dealt damage to a creature, its triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is 2 damage marked on Stinkweed Imp, it dies. Then your opponent gains priority with the triggered ability on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability resolves, and the creature with trample dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace Stinkweed Imp with a creature with deathtouch (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadly%20Recluse&quot;&gt;Deadly Recluse&lt;/a&gt;, for example), steps 3, 4, and 5 are replaced with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All damage is resolved. This includes the damage dealt to and by Deadly Recluse, and the trample damage to you. Because the creature with trample took damage from Deadly Recluse, it dies, no matter what it's toughness is (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 704.5h&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T17:19:13.847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:19:13.847" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18850" CreationDate="2014-09-06T00:41:33.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I assume you mean &lt;em&gt;Builders’ Union&lt;/em&gt;, where other players have to pay 1 coin to the bank for each Wonder stage they built.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, players have to pay also for stages built in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cities&lt;/em&gt; rules&lt;/a&gt; about Debts (page 4):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important : monetary losses are always resolved at the end of a turn, after players have played their cards, possibly having paid for trade and/or obtained money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T00:41:33.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18855" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-06T01:28:28.620" Score="4" ViewCount="1554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume that a player turns up the &lt;em&gt;Ogre Achiever&lt;/em&gt; upon kicking down the door, and cannot kill it alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the card's description (excluding 'Bad Stuff') is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+5 against &lt;strong&gt;anyone&lt;/strong&gt; who doesn't have a Class &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a Faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt; emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the original player who looted the room &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the person helping &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; do not have a class &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a faction, would the resulting monster have +10 against the team of 2 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so or if not, a specification from the rulebook would be appreciated! I have had no luck in finding anything in the original game's rulebook nor the expansion (&lt;em&gt;Pathfinder&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8465" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T01:34:06.453" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T02:25:39.880" Title="Munchkin: card attributes in the event of helping another player" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18859" CreationDate="2014-09-06T01:42:32.857" Score="1" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphous%20Rush&quot;&gt;Polymorphous Rush&lt;/a&gt; targeting X tokens, turning them all into copies of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Young Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt;, do I get an elemental token from each copy, similar to Scapeshift with Valakut on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8466" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T02:35:27.553" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T07:35:46.920" Title="Polymorphous Rush targeting Young Pyromancer and X Tokens" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18855" CreationDate="2014-09-06T02:25:39.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find a specific rule in either the rule book or FAQ but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showpost.php?s=d936962bcc613932174362270e4e1c6e&amp;amp;p=963268&amp;amp;postcount=9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;following post&lt;/a&gt; from the Steve Jackson Games forum. According to them, the card must explicitly state that the effect stacks. So in your case, the maximum would be +5 to the monsters level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In my examples, x will always be 5, y will always be 2. A will be&#xA;  Dwarf and B will be Elf. The Dwarf/Anything or Elf/Anything means&#xA;  Anything except human. The reason behind this is because of the&#xA;  Half-breed card that allows you to ignore disadvantages of the single&#xA;  race you have, as long as you have Half-breed too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1: +x against A &amp;amp; B = +x if A and/or B.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monster Card says: +5 against Dwarf &amp;amp; Elf &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It means that the monster gets a +5 if you're a Dwarf, Dwarf/Anything,&#xA;  Dwarf/Elf, Elf/Anything, Elf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2: +x against A &amp;amp; B and it stacks = +x if only A or only B, +2x if A &amp;amp; B.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monster Card says: +5 against Dwarf &amp;amp; Elf, and card specifies that it&#xA;  stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It means that the monster gets a +5 if you're a Dwarf OR an Elf. If&#xA;  you're a Dwarf AND an Elf, the monster get +10 in this case.&#xA;  Dwarf/Anything minus Elf and Elf/Anything minus Dwarf only get +5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important note; a Monster getting a bonus against multiple races&#xA;  usually only get the bonus once. Same for multiple classes, or other&#xA;  such things, since they're the same source; Bonus vs Race, or vs&#xA;  Class, or vs whatever. HOWEVER, a combination of those, a Bonus vs&#xA;  Race AND a Bonus vs Class will always stack, since it's a different&#xA;  source. Only the monster cards that SPECIFY that their bonus stack for&#xA;  2 different Races, Classes or Whatever, will have it stack. An example&#xA;  of such cards would be #3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3 +x against A, +y against B = +x if only A, +y if only B, +(x+y) if A &amp;amp; B.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monster Card says: +5 against Dwarf, +2 against Elf. +7 if both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This one is fairly simple. It means that if you're a Dwarf or&#xA;  Dwarf/Anything, minus Elf, the monster gets a bonus of +5. If you're&#xA;  an Elf or Elf/Anything, minus Dwarf, the monster gets a bonus of +2.&#xA;  If you're Dwarf/Elf, the +5 and +2 stack, and create a +7 bonus for&#xA;  the monster, hence the &quot;if both&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Negatives can appear instead of those positive Bonuses. Some might&#xA;  even have both, in which case one would be added and the other would&#xA;  be substracted. In my examples, it would be something like +5 against&#xA;  Dwarf, -2 Against Elf. In this case, it doesn't have to specify &quot;if&#xA;  both&quot; because, while they're from the same source (Race), one's a&#xA;  Disadvantage (the +5 against Dwarf) and the other's an Advantage (the&#xA;  -2 against Elf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules (in bold) themselves supposedly come from Steve Jackson (although I can't confirm that), the further explanations are from a forum member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5424" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T02:25:39.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18856" CreationDate="2014-09-06T02:33:20.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Young Pyromancer triggers when you &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; a spell. Polymorphous Rush is just one spell, no matter how many targets you give it, so it triggers your Pyromancer just once. Once it resolves, you'll have plenty of Pyromancers around, so if you cast &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; spell you can trigger all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, you cast a spell, it goes on the stack, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; it resolves. (After anything else that happened in response, of course.) Young Pyromancer triggers when it's cast, and the tokens are turned into copies when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-06T07:35:46.920" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T07:35:46.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18856" CreationDate="2014-09-06T04:32:47.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Young Pyromancer's trigger happens when you first cast a spell, which in this case is before Polymorphous Rush will resolve and create more copies. At the time that Polymorphous Rush was cast, there was only 1 Young Pyromancer around, so that it the only trigger that there is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack would look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: (Cast Polymorphous Rush)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;-Polymorphous Rush&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B: (Young Pyromancer triggers from spell being cast)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;-Young Pyromancer's triggered ability&#xA;-Polymorphous Rush&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C: (Players pass priority; Young Pyromancer's triggered ability resolves; red elemental token enters battlefield)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;-Polymorphous Rush&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D: (Players pass priority; Polymorphous Rush resolves; targeted creatures become copy of Young Pyromancer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;-(Empty)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, when the other Pyromancers are all created, there is no spell being cast at that point; Polymorphous Rush was already cast. You would need to cast another spell after this in order to trigger all the new Young Pyromancers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T04:32:47.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18862" CreationDate="2014-09-06T06:31:30.677" Score="3" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been doing some reading on the history of the Tarot deck, and I love the complexity of the suits (wands, pentacles) and the trumps (The World, Wheel of Fortune), but every game that uses this deck seems to be a basic trick taking game! (e.g. French tarot, tarock and tarocchi)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surely a deck with so much fantasy potential (I'm coming from a Magic the Gathering background) would have some amazing games that use the actual meaning of the trumps in the game, not just their numbers. Has anyone heard of a game like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8467" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T20:32:49.033" Title="Do any card games use the tarot trumps (Judgement, The Chariot) in any interesting ways?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18805" CreationDate="2014-09-06T07:07:26.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I took a deeper dive into the full rules and some Room cards, and uncovered some relevant snippets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;Build Phase&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once each player has had the chance to place a Room during the end of the Build Phase ... &quot;when you build this Room&quot; abilities take effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;Sequence of Play&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the End of the Build phase, any Level Up or &quot;when you build this room&quot; effects trigger...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;Sequence of Play, cont'd&quot; &gt; &quot;Rooms Deal Damage&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As the Hero enters each room, any Room ability takes effect, then the Room deals its damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You many only destroy a Room if it is active, and if a card specifically allows you to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zombie Prison (Room): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy this room: Choose a dead Hero in an opponent's scorekeeping area. Send it back to the entrance of that player's dungeon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Crushinator (Room): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy another Room in your Dungeon: Until end of turn, your Rooms have +2 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jackpot Stash (Room): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy this room: Double the treasure value of your dungeon's Rooms until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottomless Pit (Room): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy this Room: Kill a Hero in this Room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't destroy rooms at any time; only if some card allows it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If room destruction is time dependent (such as during the Adventure Phase), you can destroy the room at that time. (This is because of the &quot;Room abilty takes effect&quot; clause under &quot;Rooms Deal Damage&quot;.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, Rooms must be destroyed at End of the Build phase so that their &quot;Until the end of this turn&quot; effects apply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T07:07:26.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18860" CreationDate="2014-09-06T12:55:14.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Gnostica/GnosticaRules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gnostica&lt;/a&gt; players have a hand of cards from a Tarrot deck, which also doubles as the game's board, and a stash of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icehouse_pieces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;icehouse pieces&lt;/a&gt; per player.  It is a territorial game where players try to outmaneuver each other in order to occupy high scoring cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trumps (or &quot;Major Arcana&quot;) have powers which are related to the card. Here are some of the clearer relations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chariot - Make two moves;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength - Take two grow actions;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hermit - Move something to an unoccupied space;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;World - Use the power of any trump that forms part of the playing field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the rest of the trump powers in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Gnostica/GnosticaRules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;full rules&lt;/a&gt; under &quot;Major arcana powers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gnostica is based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ginohn.com/wunder201005/games/Zarcana/rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zarcana&lt;/a&gt;, replacing the standard deck of playing cards with tarrot cards, and adding in the interesting powers along the way.  It is also similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://ceruleansgames.tripod.com/dectana.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dectana&lt;/a&gt; which uses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.decktet.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decktet&lt;/a&gt; (a deck of cards inspired by tarrot cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T12:55:14.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-06T13:10:11.433" Score="2" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are somewhere on Internet available fan-made versions of cards which are exclusive to Pokemon Trading Card Game for GBC? I mean fake cards, which are looking as real-game cards. It doesn't have to be in printing quality, but should be readable on display (but I don't mind if the art is low-quality copy from GBC assets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm searching them for hours, but cannot find any. (Except Imakuni which was AFAIK released as non-gbc card only in Japan, but English fan-made version is easily found.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: in English, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8468" LastEditorUserId="8468" LastEditDate="2014-09-13T06:13:06.883" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T14:23:34.010" Title="Is there fan-made version of gbc-version exclusive pokemon cards?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18864" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-06T22:47:15.210" Score="3" ViewCount="888" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most Level Up abilities clearly benefit the Boss, but Robobo's is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each opponent mush choose and destroy one Room in his or her Dungeon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponents get to destroy a room (often quite beneficial), and Robobo doesn't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way - short of only building a four room dungeon - that Robobo can avoid using this ability? What play strategies can Robobo use to maximize his Level Up ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T20:18:18.673" Title="Must a Boss use their Level Up ability?" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14579" CreationDate="2014-09-06T23:39:12.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try YGOPRO it actually works and does everything you need. It even has an offline AI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8470" LastActivityDate="2014-09-06T23:39:12.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-07T02:55:53.673" Score="10" ViewCount="2476" Body="&lt;p&gt;This board has 36 spools that fit on 16 pegs or sticks. &#xA;It looks like it might be 3D checkers or something like that.&#xA;Interested in the name and how to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qgxz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hand made board game!&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone took a lot of time making this really nice board game and I would like to use it properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8471" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-07T03:40:06.593" LastActivityDate="2020-09-12T00:34:48.737" Title="What is this game with 16 pegs and 36 spools to fit on them?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18867" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-07T07:43:47.023" Score="1" ViewCount="5009" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt; and enchanted &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Marath%2C%20Will%20of%20the%20Wild&quot;&gt;Marath, Will of the Wild&lt;/a&gt;, then took off the 3 counters, would Marath return to my opponent's command zone or would I retain control and have the option of casting him for his mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8474" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T01:47:26.390" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T02:05:53.500" Title="Would stealing control of my opponent's commander with Control Magic and killing it let me maintain control of it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18867" CreationDate="2014-09-07T11:52:29.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you won't retain control. Your enchantment will fall off and go to your graveyard, and Marath will go to your &lt;em&gt;opponent's&lt;/em&gt; graveyard or command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary reason is that when a creature changes zones, this rule kicks in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_%28Zones%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, whenever a creature dies, it moves to its &lt;strong&gt;owner's&lt;/strong&gt; graveyard - not its controller's. You don't become Marath's owner, just its controller temporarily. (There are &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of different rules covering the situations a creature might  die, but they all handle it the exact same way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Marath dies, he (she? I don't know) is going to move to his owner's graveyard like any other creature. If Marath is your opponent's commander, your opponent has the option to instead move him to the command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Commander_%28format%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.11.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; If a commander would be put into its owner’s graveyard from anywhere, that player may put it into the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, Marath changes zones. From the perspective of your &lt;em&gt;Control Magic&lt;/em&gt; enchantment, the creature it enchanted has vanished completely, and so the enchantment goes to your graveyard. It doesn't move &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; Marath, just like how cards don't stay enchanted when they move to your graveyard. Elsewhere, in another zone, a brand new object called &lt;em&gt;Marath, Will of the Wild&lt;/em&gt; appears, with no relation to the creature the enchantment once enchanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent regains total control of Marath, and can cast him from the command zone as usual (if your opponent chose to move him there, instead of to their own graveyard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you manage to take &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot; control of Marath (e.g. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perplexing%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Perplexing Chimera&lt;/a&gt;), you &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; don't own him, and he'll return to your opponent's graveyard or command zone when he dies. Control of Marath is returned to your opponent completely thanks to 400.7 and business as usual resumes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T02:05:53.500" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T02:05:53.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-07T16:12:07.020" Score="2" ViewCount="2205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught this as a young child by my grandmother. It's how my family plays what we call rummy, but I cannot find anything like it online:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two plus players (we've played up to 4), all dealt 7 cards. Deck is placed face down and one card turned up, player to the right goes first. They can either pick up the face up card or the top card from the deck, then discard a single card. Next player can either pick up the top card from the discard pile, or the entire discard pile, or a single card from the deck, then discard a single card. Play continues like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can put down runs of 3 or more and melds of 3 or more at any time during their turn. Following this, a player that has put down a run or a meld of their own can on their turn add to other players runs and melds (keeping them with their own cards, so say player one had 7, 8, 9 and 10 of hearts down... player two as long as they've also go their own run/meld placed down can put down just a jack of hearts, player one could then place down just a queen of hearts, etc.)... you can choose to put down your runs and melds immediately upon getting them or you can hold them and half the deck in your hand (if you keep picking up the discard pile) until you can go out, by having no cards left in your hand. It's up to you. You don't need to give any warnings before going out, and going out does not require discarding a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8476" LastEditorUserId="22464" LastEditDate="2017-11-26T15:31:06.130" LastActivityDate="2017-11-26T15:31:06.130" Title="What version of rummy is this?" Tags="|identify-this-game|rummy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18866" CreationDate="2014-09-07T17:33:46.550" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had the chance to play this game before: it's a 3D version of the classic game Connect 4 and as far as I know the same rules apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it looks very cool, in my humble opinion there are too many possibilities and it's far less fun than the 2D version. I'm not sure if it's patented and/or if there are &quot;official&quot; rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8477" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-09-07T21:29:30.447" LastActivityDate="2014-09-07T21:29:30.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18873" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-08T05:19:42.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Game of Thrones: The Card Game is a LCG (living card game) published by Fantasy Flight Games. First published in 2003 as a CCG, it was transformed to the LCG format in 2007. The questions in this tag refer to the first edition. A second edition is scheduled for release around August 2015&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T15:35:38.730" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T15:35:38.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18874" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-08T05:19:42.473" Score="0" Body="A Game of Thrones: The Card Game is a LCG (living card game) published by Fantasy Flight Games." OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T15:57:30.380" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:57:30.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18876" CreationDate="2014-09-08T05:54:27.277" Score="3" ViewCount="2385" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Repercussion&quot;&gt;Repercussion&lt;/a&gt;'s text reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature is dealt damage, Repercussion deals that much damage to that creature's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: if, for example, a 1/1 creature is dealt 10 damage with Repercussion in play, does its controller take 10 damage or 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8479" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T07:07:12.400" LastActivityDate="2023-04-10T12:38:51.257" Title="Will Repercussion deal damage to a controller beyond a creature's toughness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18875" CreationDate="2014-09-08T06:17:59.747" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The controller takes 10 damage. A creature's toughness does not limit the damage it can take. Toughness just indicates how much damage is enough to destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T06:17:59.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18849" CreationDate="2014-09-08T09:41:16.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turn them loose with a computer simulation at first so they can get lots of hands in. Only after seeing the general structure of play will they understand what to even consider when bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest a computer simulation as it means you don't have to spend time playing with a completely clueless person and they can learn on their own. If you situation is amenable to new people and lots of hands, then just plain old playing a bunch is the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8481" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T09:41:16.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2014-09-08T09:45:11.590" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played it exactly once. There were four of us and I had the role that lets other people take an extra move. By me basically coordinating the entire group we won easily. Once this strategy was obvious, no one wanted to play such an easily beat game any more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while my answer is that it's easier with more people, the real answer is that it's easier with more coordination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8481" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T09:45:11.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18901" CreationDate="2014-09-08T12:21:28.087" Score="2" ViewCount="1376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zombie Haunt (21) was revealed and then 2 of the players started exchanging the medallion because only the holder could make damage to the Zombie Lord. &#xA;What I was wondering was is that possible? The trade is done for items that are not in any way used in the last turn. So if a player attacks me and he has the medallion does that count as using the medallion in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is that with all them gathering on the same square as the Zombie lord and each trading the item and then attempting attack they would kill the Zombie lord pretty easily if he fails 1 or 2 rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a roleplayer I always had the understanding that all happens simultaneously and that doesn't really connects with me, if everyone trade the item and everyone do the damage normally on the Zombie lord. Can anyone clarify this for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8194" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T13:24:08.843" Title="Is the medallion being used in Haunt N21?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18809" CreationDate="2014-09-08T13:23:09.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;my understanding of it is that the holding cell isn't a Kolat card.  It creates a Kolat Battle.  The only cards currently which are Kolat are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oboro, the Liar&#xA;Yasuki Jire&#xA;Yasuki Makoto&#xA;Yoritomo Yusuke&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8483" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T13:23:09.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14181" CreationDate="2014-09-08T13:51:39.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind that Possession is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; an Attack. Why? Because all it (normally) does is burn through your hand and deck. Your trashed cards come back. Its purpose is to give the player an extra turn - it just does it with your cards. That churn of cards can be very beneficial because the cards you most recently bought are usually better cards, so cycling your deck gets them into your hand faster than just you taking your turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as mentioned, it is a &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; expensive card. You could buy other expensive cards instead that could be useful much more quickly. Consider you must 1) buy a Potion; 2) get that Potion and 6 coin in play in one turn to buy the Possession; 3) wait for it to appear and play it. In the mean time I could have purchased (say) Silver and Gold, or even better cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also be alert for cards that can make Possession much more powerful. If your Possession victim has Ambassador and Province in hand, well it could be returned to the Supply for you to gain. Remodel Province for Gold? Very nice (but your victim does not lose the Province). Masquerade a Gold to my opponent? Excellent. Those are times you want the Possession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8484" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T13:51:39.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10990" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:09:41.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The page you linked has a &quot;Quickstart Guide&quot; and &quot;Advanced Rules&quot;. What else are you looking for? That is, what did you see that led you to believe there is anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8484" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:09:41.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18886" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:19:03.573" Score="5" ViewCount="2201" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's my opponent turn.  I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prophet%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, which means I can play creatures as though they had flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boonweaver%20Giant&quot;&gt;Boonweaver Giant&lt;/a&gt; and chooses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spectra%20Ward&quot;&gt;Spectra Ward&lt;/a&gt;, which goes on the stack as triggered ability (?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypnotic%20Siren&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Siren&lt;/a&gt; with bestow to gain control of Boonweaver Giant in response to the triggered ability.  (I can do this during my opponent's turn because I control Prophet of Kruphix.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean that the stack looks like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;        TOP&#xA;    Hypnotic Siren   \&#xA;                     |&#xA;  / Spectra Ward     | 1&#xA;2 |                  |&#xA;  \ Boonweaver Giant /&#xA;&#xA;        BOTTOM&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will I gain control of Boonweaver Giant, and then it gets the Spectra Ward Aura under my control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone tell me whether there is a mistake in this play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings on Hypnotic Siren say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gaining control of a creature doesn’t cause you to gain control of any Auras or Equipment attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which does not apply to this situation because Boonweaver Giant does not have any Auras attached to it when I gain control of it with Hypnotic Siren.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8489" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T16:00:35.737" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T23:57:06.357" Title="Gaining control of a creature while an Aura targeting it is on the stack" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14370" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:20:22.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say yes. The rules state that two pawns can never occupy the same space. Since it is your turn and you advance your pawn with the fire token to the corner, it would make sense to return the opposing player's pawn to start. The only time you wouldn't be able to do this would be if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is a pawn with the ice token on the fire corner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One of your pawns is on the fire corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these scenarios would involve you not moving your pawn with the fire token to the corner. Otherwise, &lt;em&gt;Sorry!&lt;/em&gt; is the name of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason I could see this having an effect would be if you have no other pawns on the board and the card you draw after sending the opposing pawn home is a 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:20:22.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18884" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:42:07.097" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, if Boonweaver Giant's triggered ability is on the stack, then &lt;strong&gt;Boonweaver himself is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;. He has already entered the battlefield. Second, &lt;strong&gt;Spectra Ward should never have been placed on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;. Boonweaver Giant's triggered ability is what actually gets placed on the stack. Your opponent doesn't have to make a decision until it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these corrections in mind, here is what your stack actually looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hypnotic Siren (TOP)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boonweaver Giant's triggered ability (BOTTOM)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypnotic Siren resolves. You gain control of Boonweaver Giant. Next, Boonweaver Giant's ability resolves. Your opponent &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; search for an aura and attach it to Boonweaver Giant. He may choose not to. If he does, he will control the aura attached to Boonweaver, and you will control Boonweaver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:42:07.097" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18884" CreationDate="2014-09-08T15:43:32.923" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting Hypnotic Siren on Boonweaver Giant will not give you control of Spectra Ward.  However, this doesn't matter, as Spectra Ward will continue to give its bonus to Boonweaver Giant anyway, and (unlike, say, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curiosity&quot;&gt;Curiosity&lt;/a&gt;) this bonus does not depend in any way on who controls Spectra Ward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, your understanding of how the stack works here is flawed.  If you intend to cast Hypnotic Siren after the Spectra Ward enters the battlefield, then the correct order of events is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent casts Boonweaver Giant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boonweaver Giant resolves and enters the battlefield (and thus is no longer on the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boonweaver Giant's &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; ability triggers and goes on the stack.  Your opponent does not search for an Aura at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Boonweaver Giant's ETB trigger resolves.  At this point, your opponent searches his or her library for an Aura and puts it onto the battlefield attached to Boonweaver Giant.  This happens all at once.  The Aura is never on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Due to the Spectra Ward, Boonweaver Giant now has protection from blue, and so you cannot cast Hypnotic Siren on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you instead cast Hypnotic Siren before Spectra Ward enters the battlefield, that will have to take place immediately after step 3.  At that point, you will have no knowledge of what Aura your opponent will search for, and by the time your opponent does search, you will control the Boonweaver Giant and (because its ability says &amp;quot;may&amp;quot;) your opponent (who still controls the ETB ability) has the option to not search for an Aura to place on the Giant — or to search for an Aura that negatively affects you (like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt; to steal the Giant back!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T15:56:26.707" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T15:56:26.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18889" CreationDate="2014-09-08T17:55:10.987" Score="7" ViewCount="2347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading FAQs concerning &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muraganda%20Petroglyphs&quot;&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs&lt;/a&gt; and morph cards, a face down morph creature will get the &lt;code&gt;+2/+2&lt;/code&gt; bonus from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muraganda%20Petroglyphs&quot;&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't understand is why. Since the face down creature gets &lt;code&gt;+2/+2&lt;/code&gt; form the glyphs, that implies the creature has no abilities. Yet the creature can be turned face up by its morph cost. If that is not an ability, what is it exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2209" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T19:18:31.707" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T19:18:31.707" Title="Why is Morph not considered an ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18888" CreationDate="2014-09-08T18:07:19.583" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The face down morph cards don't have an ability whose effect turns the card face-up. Instead, the rules allow you to turn them face-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.36d If you have priority, you may turn a face-down permanent you control face up. This is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). To do this, show all players what the permanent’s morph cost would be if it were face up, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up. (If the permanent wouldn’t have a morph cost if it were face up, it can’t be turned face up this way.) The morph effect on it ends, and it regains its normal characteristics. Any abilities relating to the permanent entering the battlefield don’t trigger when it’s turned face up and don’t have any effect, because the permanent has already entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T18:18:40.463" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T18:18:40.463" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18891" CreationDate="2014-09-08T18:45:33.673" Score="0" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the rules regarding playing DCI sanctioned Block Constructed formats with cards from a core set such as M15? (I'm thinking of Innistrad-Avacyn Restored block).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all players in a game have to use the core set? Can they use blocks that are different from one another's?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8490" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T18:57:00.173" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T18:57:00.173" Title="Can players use cards from a core set in a Block Constructed tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18890" CreationDate="2014-09-08T18:53:05.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;None of the currently sanctioned Block Constructed formats include any core sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All players in a sanctioned Block Constructed tournament must be using the same block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The list of currently available Block Constructed formats that can be sanctioned is in the Magic Tournament Rules, that you can find here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/en/resources/rules-documents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wpn.wizards.com/en/resources/rules-documents&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T18:53:05.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18864" CreationDate="2014-09-08T20:18:18.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://brotherwisegames.com/rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, your boss's &quot;Level Up&quot; ability is &lt;em&gt;triggered&lt;/em&gt; when your dungeon is 5 rooms in size. &quot;Triggering&quot; implies necessity. So yes, the only way to avoid levelling up is by not building a fifth room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, and more to your concern... according to the Advanced Rules (see the entry for Robobo in the glossary using the link above), using Robobo's level up &lt;strong&gt;does not trigger the &quot;destroy this Room&quot; ability for the destroyed room.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-09-08T20:18:18.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18902" CreationDate="2014-09-08T21:17:07.413" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of Friday state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If at any point you must discard a life point but do not have any&#xA;  remaining, you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I have 1 life point left, and voluntarily discard it to draw a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game hasn't required me to discard a non-existent life point yet (and I may gain more life before it does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I read this, I could go several turns at 0 life, without losing, as long as the game does not require me to spend a life point that I don't have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T03:13:18.740" Title="Can I spend all my life points to draw cards?" Tags="|friday|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-08T21:55:36.460" Score="-8" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there web sites where I can buy cards from Magic: The Gathering? I want to buy the Exalted Darkness and Dream Puppets decks from the Xbox 360 version of Magic: The Gathering 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8491" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-08T22:07:41.900" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T02:06:04.900" Title="Where can I buy Magic: The Gathering cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-09-09T02:48:03.963" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18894" CreationDate="2014-09-08T22:35:21.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy Magic: The Gathering cards at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tcgplayer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TCGPlayer.com&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;StarCityGames.com&lt;/a&gt;, just to name a couple. Some vendors offer free shipping if you purchase more than a minimum threshold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decks from inside the game are not sold in real life as a complete bundle. You'll have to hand select the cards yourself. Here are the decklists you mentioned, for reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ign.com/wikis/magic-the-gathering-duels-of-the-planeswalkers/Exalted_Darkness_(White_and_Black)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exalted Darkness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ign.com/wikis/magic-the-gathering-duels-of-the-planeswalkers/Dream_Puppets_(Blue)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dream Puppets&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T02:06:04.900" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T02:06:04.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18897" CreationDate="2014-09-08T22:52:36.750" Score="14" ViewCount="15199" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/khan-do-attitude-part-2-2014-09-08&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ashcloud Phoenix&lt;/a&gt; (or, for that matter, any card with a death triggers that's turned face down by an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIxidron%5d&quot;&gt;Ixidron&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9QXyJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Ashcloud Phoenix&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Ashcloud Phoenix dies, return it to the battlefield face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play my Phoenix face down as a morph creature, and it gets killed (say, by a Lightning Bolt), what happens next? Do I get to return it to the battlefield face down, or will it just stay dead in my graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the one hand, it was face down when it left the battlefield, and thus had no abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the other hand, it enters my graveyard &quot;face up.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does its graveyard trigger apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T18:42:07.670" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T18:42:07.670" Title="Does killing a face-down morph trigger the death triggers printed on the card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18896" CreationDate="2014-09-08T23:36:29.917" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ashcloud Phoenix's ability does not trigger, and it stays in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;603.6d&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities... will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward.&lt;/strong&gt; The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the phoenix did not have the ability before it was destroyed, the ability does not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T18:27:16.667" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T18:27:16.667" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2014-09-09T06:46:00.477" Score="-1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I fear you may be answering your own question here... if only the bearer of the medallion can damage the Zombie Lord, then technically you're using it. Anyone without the medallion can attack the monster, but nothing will come of it. - generalcrispy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8194" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T06:46:00.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18871" CreationDate="2014-09-09T07:16:18.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to exactly fit the rules of the French game Rami, which must be one of the variations of the Rummy, i guess. I did not even know there were different kind of Rummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8496" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T07:16:18.920" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-09T12:57:00.913" Score="10" ViewCount="3316" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing tournament chess for 20 years. Recently I started playing checkers (the American version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In chess, tactics is about calculating the next few moves ahead. Strategy is the long-term kind of thinking, what to do when there is nothing to do tactically. I tried to apply these methods of thinking to checkers too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After I read some books on checkers, I was pretty disappointed. While they all claim to teach strategy, all they contain are some openings and tactical positions. Nothing about strategy, positional guidelines or how to select your candidate moves. Only &quot;if white moves here then red moves here&quot; and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only strategical guideline I found was: &quot;try to control the center&quot;, but again with a concrete game as an example. During a game, most of the time I have absolutely no clue who has the advantage, because I am missing a set of theoretical guidelines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: Is checkers &quot;just&quot; tactics, or is it more and I have overlooked something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8498" LastEditorUserId="8498" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T13:01:41.257" LastActivityDate="2021-04-03T15:10:49.333" Title="Is checkers just tactics?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18880" CreationDate="2014-09-09T13:24:08.843" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The errata added restrictions on this use of items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are five heroes and a monster in a room, could each of them use, say, the Spear to attack that monster, then pass it on to the next person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. Add this rule: &amp;quot;For each item, during a turn an explorer or monster that can carry items may only perform one of the following actions: use the item, give the item to another explorer, drop the item, steal the item, or pick up the item. Using the item means making any attack or roll or other action in which the item is involved in any way.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the heroes cannot do this, due specifically to the last sentence: &amp;quot;Using the item means making any attack or roll or other action in which the item is involved in any way.&amp;quot; Even though you are not attacking with the medallion, as you would with the spear, the medallion is involved in the attack as it is a requirement for the attack to have any effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T13:24:08.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18893" CreationDate="2014-09-09T17:36:59.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/399-Friday&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Friday&lt;/a&gt;? The current text of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; does not include the passage you quoted. It seems they realized the behaviour was unusual enough to warrant clarification, and updated the rules to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you need to pay a life token during the game and do not have any left you immediately lose the game. Having zero life points is OK, but if you need one more life token you lose the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T03:13:18.740" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T03:13:18.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18523" CreationDate="2014-09-09T18:38:30.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made some &quot;adjustments&quot; to minibridge to make the contract based on the number of trumps and points preventing underbidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does mean you will get some unmakeable contracts but that means the defending side has a change. Play of the cards isn't only about declarer play it is also about defending and the fact that on some hands the defence will win out not just due to poor declarer play but their own good defence might encourage them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the following system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have 25 points or more you have to play in game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You also have to play in 4 of a major if the number of trumps multiplied by the number of points is more than 200.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 of a minor when the number of trumps multiplied by the number of cards in the suit is more than 220 and you don't want to play in 3NT.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In part-scores you can enforce a kind of &quot;total tricks&quot; contract or 1NT or 2NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Duplicate mini-bridge would work well if you are teaching a group. In particular you want to &quot;keep&quot; the hands to talk through them afterwards. Show them double dummy and see if the players agree with the plays they made and if not, why they disagree other than knowing what partner has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example 3rd-hand and 2nd-hand play, finesses, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T18:38:30.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18904" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-09T21:47:20.927" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-09T21:47:20.927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-09T21:47:20.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18905" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-09T21:47:20.927" Score="0" Body="The quality of games able be played properly by people with disabilities such as visual, motor or cognitive." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T09:32:27.293" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T09:32:27.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18909" CreationDate="2014-09-10T02:52:36.430" Score="6" ViewCount="2528" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%2C%20Champion%20of%20Justice&quot;&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability to turn him into a creature:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0: Until end of turn, Gideon, Champion of Justice becomes a Human Soldier creature with power and toughness each equal to the number of loyalty counters on him and gains indestructible. He's still a planeswalker. Prevent all damage that would be dealt to him this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is he now a creature with the ability of &amp;quot;this creature's power and toughness are equal to the number of loyalty counters on it&amp;quot; or is he assigned a power and toughness as it becomes a creature? The reason I'm asking are to know if I can either change the number of counters on him somehow to pump him up (if it's an ability), or duplicate him somehow when he is a creature (if it's a fixed at time of activation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T03:10:47.033" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T03:18:20.253" Title="How does Gideon, Champion of Justice's ability work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18906" CreationDate="2014-09-10T03:18:20.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A ruling on the gatherer page for Gideon says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Gideon, Champion of Justice's power and toughness are set to the number of loyalty counters on him when his second ability resolves. They won't change later in the turn if the number of loyalty counters on him changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, he is assigned a power and toughness when the ability resolves, and it doesn't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you copy Gideon in this state, the copy is just a Planeswalker. The effect that makes Gideon a creature doesn't get copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T03:18:20.253" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18910" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-10T05:01:40.600" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T05:01:40.600" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T05:01:40.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18911" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-10T05:01:40.600" Score="0" Body="When betting, a player demand a prize from other players on some future condition that they believe will become true, while offering a prize to other players in case such condition does not become true." OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-09-10T20:26:30.277" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T20:26:30.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18900" CreationDate="2014-09-10T05:14:24.537" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Checkers is defintely not just tactics! While checkers is not in the same &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chess_strategy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;strategic league as chess&lt;/a&gt;, there are clear strategic concepts. For example, controlling the long diagonal is somewhat similar to the idea of controlling the centre in chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.checkers-strategy.com/the-strategy-on-redirecting-the.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;playing to open one side&lt;/a&gt;, for the purposes of crowning pieces. This is analogous to the idea of king-side or queen-side &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pawn_storm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;pawn storms&lt;/a&gt; in chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even choosing whether to commit to an exchange or not is strategic, just as it is in chess. You are weighing up not only the material consequences of the exchange, but the positional consequences as well, both short and long term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T05:14:24.537" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18783" CreationDate="2014-09-10T15:12:40.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planar Cleansing will try to destroy everything at the same time. Hyena Umbra gets two destroy effects from Planar Cleansing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, these both happen at the same time (not one after the other), and Regeneration is the next TIME this permanent would be destroyed. Once regeneration has saved it, both destroy effects have passed because they both tried to destroy it at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the destroy effects were one after the other, then you would need more regeneration shields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T15:12:40.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18915" CreationDate="2014-09-10T17:07:46.470" Score="9" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did not find it clear in the rules if a player is required to make conquests on his/her turn.  Is it legal to turtle on your turn by not making any actions, redeploying troops and then scoring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7637" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T17:25:42.523" Title="Are players required to make conquests on their turn?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18914" CreationDate="2014-09-10T17:25:42.523" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not required. There's nothing wrong with just leaving everything exactly as is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Leaving in place one Race token in each Region they occupy,&#xA;  the player &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; take all his other Active Race tokens from the&#xA;  map back in hand and use them to conquer new Regions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the &quot;may&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The active player can repeat this process to conquer as&#xA;  many new Regions as he wishes during his turn, provided he&#xA;  has enough Race tokens left to accomplish these successive&#xA;  conquests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;As many new Regions as he wishes.&quot; 0 might be as many as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-10T17:25:42.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14219" CreationDate="2014-09-11T10:38:56.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think being economically dominant as axis necessarily means you will win. In my current game (this is the revised version though), I have conquered Africa, New Zeeland, Australia, China and some other areas, meaning I control about 55% of all income. On the other hand, since the allies have a dominant atlantic fleet that killed my mediteranian transports, Africa will probably fall and I'm not sure I will take out the Soviet union in time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, Japan is strong, dominating the pacific but does not have a large army in Asia yet, India has not fallen for example. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think games like that, where both sides gain unusual advantages are the most fun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8509" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T10:38:56.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2762" CreationDate="2014-09-11T11:05:45.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some semi-independent factors to weight in when determining what is best to buy for a given country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tactical value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your only consideration is one large one-on-one battle, a mix of about 70% inf and 30% art will be optimal, tan, fig and bom are all much worse in this regard. The reason why inf is so much more important than art, eventhough 50-50 will give you the highest attack for the lowest cost is that losing inf is cheaper than losing art, both in terms of ipcs and remaining attack value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strategic value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A&amp;amp;A is not just about winning battles, the goal is to win the game, to win the game you have to win economically (counting both income and units), and to win economically you will have to kill enemy units, save your own units and hold territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main point of tan, fig and bom are that they threaten a larger set of areas, this limits the options for your opponent, having tanks mean all areas two steps away from you are threatened, having planes means your opponent can't split their navies without losing minors ships here and there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time is on the allies side in the beginning of the game, as an axis player, you must trade economics for progress, you have to buy aggressive units eventhough they are more expensive, or the allies will beat you in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the specific case of playing Germany I usually buy about 4 inf to 1 art and 1 tan, this means I will have volume, and if I manage to avoid losing tanks, I will have a quite a few of them for the final kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play Soviet, I'll usually avoid art, it's still important to threaten areas, but I'm not in any rush and the main purpose is to hold the line until help from the other allies arrive. There are few &quot;medium&quot; battles on the eastern front, battles are almost always one-round or game-ending ones, and in the latter case, it will be Germany attacking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8509" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T11:05:45.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18919" CreationDate="2014-09-11T12:42:55.280" Score="3" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use the 5.0 living rulebook. The exact wording for the event is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Throw a Rock: An enraged fan hurls a large rock at &#xA;  one of the players on the opposing team. Each &#xA;  coach rolls a D6 and adds their FAME (see page &#xA;  18) to the roll. The fans of the team that rolls higher &#xA;  are the ones that threw the rock. In the case of a tie &#xA;  a rock is thrown at each team! Decide randomly &#xA;  which player in the other team was hit (only players &#xA;  on the pitch are eligible) and roll for the effects of &#xA;  the injury straight away. No Armour roll is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression this meant I had to roll on the injury table first, with the possibility to get a casualty table follow-up, for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rule clearly states the armour role should be skipped, but does not mention the same for the injury roll.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is clear that there should be a roll, even in a one-off (no campaign or tournament) match. Those matches don't use the casualty table.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent was under the impression I needed to roll casualty straight away, because the rule states to roll for injury effect, not for injury. The only spectator agreed, so I agreed to do it that way, but I would like to know if that was correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastEditorUserId="153" LastEditDate="2014-09-11T16:13:06.243" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T14:29:51.373" Title="Bloodbowl - throw a rock, roll for injury or casualty?" Tags="|blood-bowl|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18918" CreationDate="2014-09-11T16:12:53.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always roll for injury first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll against casualty table if injury roll result is 10-12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar what you do when a player gets pushed or knocked off the pitch and gets beat up by the fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My rule interpretation:&#xA;The rule would most likely also say &quot;No Armour roll is required and No Injury Roll is required&quot; if the intent was to go directly to the casualty table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T16:12:53.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17968" CreationDate="2014-09-11T20:43:37.727" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @SuicideClyde answered, this game is Battle Masters. I still have my original copy, though the box isn't in great shape. The mechanics revolve around a deck of cards which have pictures of specific units for each player - such as the Empire's archers or Chaos's wolf riders. The two most badass pieces are the Empire's cannon (which has a deck of tiles to fire huge distances and possibly take out several units in one shot) and Chaos's Ogre, which can move and attack several times in one turn, and takes several damage to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck mechanic is interesting, though it can lead to situations where one player takes several turns in a row before the other player ever getting a turn - such is the nature of a child-shuffled deck, especially - but it's great fun. Damaged units actually lose figures from their bases, reducing the effectiveness of the unit in future combat. It's a relatively elegant system for a kid-friendly game, and it's great fun to look down over the mat at your massive armies, especially if - like me - you were never able to afford/were never exposed to Warhammer figures growing up!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7855" LastActivityDate="2014-09-11T20:43:37.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18923" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-12T03:02:57.280" Score="2" ViewCount="17899" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I mix older Magic the Gathering cards with cards from Magic 2015? If I have mainly Magic 2015 cards can I play my friends who mainly have older decks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8516" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T19:13:40.120" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:00:25.783" Title="How do I know what cards or sets are legal to play with?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-15T06:16:35.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18923" CreationDate="2014-09-12T03:49:35.220" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what format you want to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casual&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use whatever cards you want, as long as your friends are alright with it. This is informally known as &amp;quot;kitchen table magic&amp;quot;, at least in my area. Some casual formats are are so popular that they have their own rules, such as Commander. See the link at the bottom for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Standard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to 2016, you could only use cards from the latest two expansion blocks and any core set(s) directly succeeding them. Starting in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spring of 2016&lt;/a&gt;, you can only use cards from the latest three expansion blocks. For those unaware, a &amp;quot;block&amp;quot; is a set of expansions that are released sequentially and revolve around a single story or plane. More details on this format &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/formats/standard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modern&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may use cards from any set since 8th Ed. Some cards are &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/formats/modern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;banned&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Legacy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may use cards from any set. Some cards are &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/formats/legacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;banned&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vintage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may use cards from any set. Some cards are &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/formats/vintage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;banned&lt;/a&gt;. Others are restricted to one copy per deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All Constructed Formats&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following rules apply Standard, Modern, Legacy, and Vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deck must contain at least sixty cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the exception of basic lands, decks may not exceed four of any card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards with a silver or gold border only are illegal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decks containing a mixture of Alpha and non-Alpha cards must be played with opaque sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A card from an older set is legal if a card with the same name was printed in an otherwise legal set&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can learn more about these formats, as well as some that I did not cover (such as Commander), by visiting &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/banned-restricted-list&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards of the Coast's website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T16:00:25.783" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:00:25.783" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="18926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18938" CreationDate="2014-09-12T16:27:36.080" Score="3" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for the Wagon state that when the feature it is placed on is completed, it can be move to an unclaimed, incomplete connected feature.  To my reading, this means that the feature it is moved to does not need to be &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; connected to the feature just completed, as it does not explicitly say this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt;, it says the wagon may only be moved to a feature directly connected.  I'm wondering how this conclusion is reached, and whether my interpretation of the rules in the box is valid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8388" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T21:49:13.447" Title="Wagon movement on completion of a feature" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18928" CreationDate="2014-09-12T16:48:51.073" Score="0" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;At events and on conversation boards everyone is has stated that as Khans comes out M14 and the Return to Ravnica block is going to be rotating out of standard. I can't find any reason this would happen other than that &quot;that is what happened in the past&quot;. As Magic has a very structured system I would imagine there is an official feed/site somewhere from Wizards that announces and clarifies such things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T20:12:46.240" Title="Where are official changes announced by Wizard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-09-17T20:10:21.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18927" CreationDate="2014-09-12T17:03:16.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;WoTC has a tradition of reorganize/changing their webpage, so I cannot guarantee this link will work consistently in the future, but they generally post it on their webpage someplace (I found this using Google + &quot;mtg standard format&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/standard-formats-magic-gathering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/standard-formats-magic-gathering&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard format uses the two most recently-released blocks, as well as&#xA;  the current core set. When a new block is launched, the oldest block&#xA;  rotates out of the list. The following card sets are currently&#xA;  permitted in standard format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Khans of Tarkir (effective September 26, 2014)&#xA;Magic 2015&#xA;Journey into Nyx&#xA;Born of the Gods&#xA;Theros&#xA;Magic 2014 (until September 26, 2014)&#xA;Dragon's Maze (until September 26, 2014)&#xA;Gatecrash (until September 26, 2014)&#xA;Return to Ravnica (until September 26, 2014)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;note: The quote in this answer is going to become outdated soon.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizards has announced a change&lt;/a&gt; in how cards are released and how it will impact the standard format. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T17:33:34.450" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T17:33:34.450" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18927" CreationDate="2014-09-12T17:21:23.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The list of sets legal in any format can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The MTG Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;, Section 6. The sets legal for Standard, in particular, can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/standard-formats-magic-gathering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this rules page&lt;/a&gt;. Historically, a block rotates out when the block after the following one is introduced, and a core set rotates out when the block after the following core set is introduced. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizards is changing this&lt;/a&gt;, and in the future, core sets will be removed, blocks will be two sets each, and the most recent three blocks will be legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T20:12:46.240" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T20:12:46.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19023" CreationDate="2014-09-12T19:43:19.890" Score="3" ViewCount="829" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a board game for general, &lt;strong&gt;non-gamer&lt;/strong&gt; audiences.  (Think people who have played &lt;em&gt;Monopoly&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Uno&lt;/em&gt;, but not &lt;em&gt;Risk&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt;.)  Sometimes the player faces a test with only two outcomes: pass or fail (with some consequence).  Success and failure are both equally likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's the most intuitive, non-gamer—friendly way to use 6-sided dice for a pass/fail test?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of possibilities that result in a 50% chance of success, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll a die.  Even: pass.  Odd: fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll a die.  1/2/3: pass.  4/5/6: fail.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll a die.  1/2/3: fail.  4/5/6: pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll a black die and a white one.  Black&gt;white: pass.  White&gt;black: fail.  Black=white: roll again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, I've been quite surprised to see how easily non-gamers can be confused by simple board game mechanics, so I'm trying to come up with something as non-surprising as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Replacing the die/dice with another object, such as a deck of cards or a spinner, would be too expensive for this particular game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T22:58:59.953" LastActivityDate="2020-07-08T02:24:39.333" Title="What's the most intuitive way to use a die for a pass/fail test?" Tags="|game-design|dice|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18926" CreationDate="2014-09-12T20:52:52.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems logical that the wagon can only move to a &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; connected unclaimed feature, since the example in the Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor rulebook only depicts this scenario and the annotated rules emphasize it. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NbdUa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;wagon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="8448" LastEditDate="2014-09-12T21:06:02.777" LastActivityDate="2014-09-12T21:06:02.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1824" CreationDate="2014-09-13T08:23:19.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are two variants that my friends and I play with, each of which addresses your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This is perhaps unsatisfactory but to beat the meta of how to split points is simple for us - we don't play with points!  We just go until it's time to stop, this way it really doesn't matter if someone is doing way better for no reason and there's no competition.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A useful way to incorporate strategy is to allow users to pick a mastery at the beginning.  We started off with 2 talent, 1 mastery, but now just for diversity we do 2 talent, 2 mastery, and a lvl. 1 treasure.  This last one can be great because treasures are really hard to come by (normally) and some of them open up new story options.  Choosing mastery and (possibly) treasure means that you can develop a personality and a strategy - for example, just today my friend was a pirate with seamanship and stealth and stealing who always robbed, while I was a bravo with appearance and weapon use who always attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8526" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-13T16:16:14.957" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T16:16:14.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18866" CreationDate="2014-09-13T17:38:26.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This looks a version of a game I used to own called &lt;strong&gt;Score Four&lt;/strong&gt;. It is essentially the classic Connect 4 game, but in three dimensions instead of two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It plays exactly as you would imagine&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;players take turns adding pieces of their color onto pegs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the first player to create a line of 4 in any direction (vertical, horizontal, diagonal) wins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is considerably more interesting than Connect 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3656/score-four&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3656/score-four&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T17:38:26.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-13T19:46:57.103" Score="3" ViewCount="2283" Body="&lt;p&gt;It never occured to me that this might not be an action sanctioned for tournament, but me and my friends have always done it as long as I can remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time before a new game, we look through our decks and separate the lands from the non-lands, shuffle the non-lands, and build a deck (assuming a 2:1 ratio of non-lands to lands) 2 non-lands then 1 land -- repeat until no cards are left. Then give a light shuffle and begin. This is used to ensure that there's no long strings of only land or no land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've done a quick search for others doing this behavior but I can't seem to locate any reference to it. But based on a couple games in Magic online, I've noticed that quite frequently I'll mulligan a hand and then get back an unhealty ratio of lands to spells and I basically lose the game right away because of it. This leads me to think that the official tournament rules are that you just shuffle your deck and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8528" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T13:56:14.527" Title="Is there an official rule on &quot;setting up&quot; your deck before play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|shuffling|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ClosedDate="2014-09-14T18:53:47.417" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2014-09-13T20:03:09.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not supposed to be &amp;quot;ensuring&amp;quot; that you get a good hand on the first draw. Theoretically, each player should start the game with their deck in a random permutation. Any 7 cards should be a possible starting hand. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Starting_the_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 103.1&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of a game, each player shuffles his or her deck so that the cards are in a &lt;strong&gt;random order&lt;/strong&gt;. Each player may then shuffle his or her opponents' decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the section 3.9 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the official tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; is about shuffling. Here are some relevant excerpts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks must be randomized at the start of every game and whenever an instruction requires it. Randomization is defined as bringing the deck to a state where no player can have any information regarding the order or position of cards in any portion of the deck. Pile shuffling alone is not sufficiently random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has had the opportunity to see any of the card faces of the deck being shuffled, the deck is no longer considered randomized and must be randomized again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T20:35:54.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18926" CreationDate="2014-09-13T21:49:13.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Carcassonne_Exp5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English translation&lt;/a&gt; of the rule says nothing about direct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...move it to a connected incomplete and unoccupied road, city or&#xA;  monastery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is just a (sadly typical) garbling of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/fileadmin/data_archive/Regeln/CarcErw5AbteiRegelWeb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original German rules&lt;/a&gt; which clearly state (emphasis added) that the feature must be directly connected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...oder in ein &lt;strong&gt;direkt&lt;/strong&gt; angrenzendes Gebiet (Straße, Stadt oder Kloster)&#xA;  versetzen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the conclusion in the Annotated Rules is reached by referring to the original German rules for the game. Your interpretation of the English rules is fair, but the rules in the box are (as is often the case with the English rules for Carcassonne) wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T21:49:13.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18941" CreationDate="2014-09-13T23:12:25.500" Score="1" ViewCount="1217" Body="&lt;p&gt;After my barrel fails, can I use a missed card from my hand to fend off a Bang! card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it mean that I will immediately take a hit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8529" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T23:25:49.700" Title="Bang the bullet - Barrel" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18940" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18946" CreationDate="2014-09-13T23:19:35.553" Score="1" ViewCount="1627" Body="&lt;p&gt;Claus the Saint can draw! 5 cards. He dies. When the Ghost Town is in effect, is he still allowed to come back and use his ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8529" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T09:34:19.703" Title="Ghost Town - Do abilities of the characters still count?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18939" CreationDate="2014-09-13T23:25:49.700" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still use a Missed card like normal if the barrel fails. From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example. C is the target of A's BANG! C has a Barrel card in play: this card lets him “draw!” to cancel a BANG! card. So, C flips the top card of the deck and puts it on the discard pile: it's a 4 of Hearts. The use of the Barrel is successful and cancels the BANG! If the flipped card were of a different suit, then the Barrel would have had no effect, but C could have still tried to cancel the BANG! with a Missed! card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-13T23:25:49.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18948" CreationDate="2014-09-14T02:04:02.777" Score="1" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a draft cube and cannot decide how many of a certain card I should put into it. Is there anyway to know exactly how likely a specific card is so that I can attempt to duplicate the probability Wizards gave it when designing the set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-09-14T04:38:27.913" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T12:09:54.047" Title="Is it possible to determine the exact probability of getting a card in a pack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18991" CreationDate="2014-09-14T03:51:25.160" Score="3" ViewCount="3931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played terra mystica for the first time recently as the engineers. I decided to pick good bridging starting locations, build a stonghold and a bridge the first turn, and spend the rest of the game accumulating as many points as I could from the bridges. I got boxed in the second turn and completely destroyed in terms of points. The engineers low starting resources and few workers from dwellings seem to imply that the ability to build bridges without with workers is extremely powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What strategy should I use when playing as the engineers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1694" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T08:14:59.060" Title="What stategy should I use when playing as the engineers?" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18964" CreationDate="2014-09-14T05:03:06.677" Score="18" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've taught Carcassonne to a number of new players (it's a great &quot;gateway game&quot;)! However, the problem that I keep having is with the farmers. Players are able to quickly grasp the idea of putting meeple thieves on roads, soldiers in cities, and monks on monasteries. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the farmers and their farms confuse the heck out of them during their first game. Generally they are confused about the mechanics of how they work or they don't see their utility. Thus any experienced players surge ahead because the new players just don't understand farms. If I get to play a second game with these new players, they have a better grasp on how farms work and can usually use them effectively, but this is a pain point of the first game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine suggested possibly playing the first game with no farms (giving these new players time to focus on the other mechanics and preventing experienced players from taking advantage of their confusion over farms), then adding in farms for a second game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What sort of issues might appear if we removed farms in the first game? Would it still be playable? And would this be an effective way of alleviating the trouble we have had with teaching how to use farms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2014-09-14T12:30:54.033" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T14:11:22.617" Title="Can you play a new player game of Carcassonne w/o farms?" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-09-14T07:19:27.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course it would still be playable! It would have a different balance, but it may even be better for newer players: experienced players would have to re-evaluate their strategies, which may put everyone on a slightly more even setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just try it? I mean, what's the worst that would happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8242" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T07:19:27.107" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18940" CreationDate="2014-09-14T11:16:04.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the character ability and in the case of Claus the Saint and other characters with beginning of turn draw abilities those abilities will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ghost Town: during their turn, killed characters return in play as ghosts, with 3 cards. They cannot be killed but they leave the game immediately after their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ghost Town card specifies that the player returns with 3 cards which overwrites Claus the Saint's ability (and any other character with a beginning of turn draw ability)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are characters that can use their ability during Ghost Town and here is an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Suzy Lafayette = As soon as she has no cards in her hand, she draws a card from the draw pile. (4 life points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T23:51:54.013" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T23:51:54.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18936" CreationDate="2014-09-14T11:21:19.720" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magic&lt;/strong&gt; tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; have this to say (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;3.9 Card Shuffling&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks must be randomized at the start of every game and whenever an instruction requires it. &lt;strong&gt;Randomization is defined as bringing the deck to a state where no player can have any information regarding the order or position of cards in any portion of the deck.&lt;/strong&gt; Pile shuffling alone is not sufficiently random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilbert%E2%80%93Shannon%E2%80%93Reeds_model&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gilbert-Shanon-Reeds model&lt;/a&gt;, the number of riffle shuffles&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; needed to properly randomize a deck can be expressed mathematically as a function of the base-2 logarithm of the number of cards in the deck&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;. For a 60-card deck, you would need nine riffle shuffles, while a deck with 40 cards in it (a Limited game, or a Constructed game that's been going for a bit) would need eight shuffles&lt;sup&gt;3&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your deck is &lt;strong&gt;properly randomized&lt;/strong&gt;, nothing you have done to it prior to the randomization has any effect on the final permutation. If you're randomizing your deck correctly, the mana-weaving you and your friends are doing has nothing more than a psychological effect. Since it isn't affecting the outcome of the game, it's legal, although it wastes time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Competitive and Professional Rules Enforcement Level (REL) tournaments, which use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_18july14_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; to determine penalties for various infractions, failing to properly randomize your deck can result in &lt;strong&gt;Tournament Error — Insufficient Shuffling&lt;/strong&gt;. The penalty for this is a Warning assuming the error was unintentional (if the error is intentional, then it falls under &lt;strong&gt;Unsporting Conduct — Cheating&lt;/strong&gt;). If you get the same Tournament Error a second time (or more), the Warning is upgraded to a Game Loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Regular REL tournaments (Friday Night Magic, prereleases, etc.: the type of tournaments most players attend), which use &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_jar_18jul14_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular REL&lt;/a&gt; (JAR) to guide judges in decision-making, &amp;quot;Inadequate Shuffling&amp;quot; falls under &lt;strong&gt;General Unwanted Behaviors&lt;/strong&gt;. At Regular, the judge will most likely instruct you on proper shuffling technique and/or simply remind you to shuffle better or shuffle more. Only if you are &lt;em&gt;consistently&lt;/em&gt; failing to properly shuffle your deck will you get Game Losses at Regular for the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament, after shuffling your deck, you must present it to your opponent (with the implicit claim that you have randomized the deck). At Regular REL, your opponent may shuffle the deck, cut the deck, or even leave the deck as is, essentially trusting that you've randomized it correctly. At Competitive and Professional REL, your opponent &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; shuffle the deck you present them. If you do not feel comfortable with your opponent shuffling your deck (for example, if you see evidence of your opponent mistreating his own cards, while you have expensive Mythics etc. in your library), you can request a judge's assistance (although a judge may not have the time to oblige you every time the deck needs shuffling).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At all levels of play, while mana-weaving isn't &lt;em&gt;against the rules&lt;/em&gt; when followed by sufficient shuffling, it may raise red flags in the minds of your opponents and the judges and cause problems where there oughtn't be any. It is recommended that you do not do this at a tournament, even if you are shuffling correctly afterwards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note: a properly randomized deck will &lt;strong&gt;often&lt;/strong&gt; have runs of only lands or only nonlands: there are many permutations of your deck where this is so, and a properly randomized deck will not have preference to one permutation over another. this is a point of consternation of many Magic Online players, who do not do a proper job of shuffling their paper cards and are befuddled by the properly shuffled digital decks, which do not have a near-uniform distribution of lands to nonlands, but are, in fact, &lt;em&gt;random&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The GRS model deals only with riffle shuffles, not other kinds of shuffling. Riffle shuffles are generally the most efficient, and other shuffling methods would require additional shuffles to achieve the same randomness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sepcifically, &lt;code&gt;3/2 * log_2(n)&lt;/code&gt;, where &lt;code&gt;log_2&lt;/code&gt; is the base-2 logarithm and &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; is the number of cards in the deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A graph of the number of shuffles required: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=plot+ceil%283%2F2+ln_2+n%29+where+1+%3C+n+%3C+100&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wolfram Alpha&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T13:56:14.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18942" CreationDate="2014-09-14T12:09:54.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards are printed on four different sheets: Basic Land, Common, Uncommon, and Rare. (Mythics are printed on the Rare sheet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of times a card is printed on the sheet determines how rare it is relative to other cards on the same sheet. For most sets (&lt;em&gt;Alliances&lt;/em&gt; and afterward, plus &lt;em&gt;Ice Age&lt;/em&gt;), all cards of the same rarity level are printed the same number of times. Within each set, every card with the same rarity has the same probability distribution*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older sets only had two print sheets (Common and Uncommon) and varied the number of times any given card was printed on it; this is where you get rarity codes like C5 and U2 – the card was printed 5 times on the Common sheet, or 2 times on the Uncommon sheet. &amp;quot;Rares&amp;quot; in this era didn't really exist, but all of the U1 cards are considered rare today. Because of this rarity distribution, it was actually possible for certain cards on the Common sheet to be more rare than certain cards on the Uncommon sheet, if the Common was printed very few times (eg, C1) and the Uncommon was printed many times (eg, U4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When designing packs*, a nonfoil Mythic rare appears in approximately 1 in 8 packs. I believe the actual ratio is something between 7 and 8 which varies by set, but 8 is a good approximation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Foil cards have the same rarity distributions as their nonfoil counterparts, but they are printed on foil sheets and their appearance in a pack is not dependent on sheet distribution but rather on card packing*. Approximately 1 in 6 packs contains a foil card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some sets throw the above numbers slightly out of whack with special packing parameters*. &lt;em&gt;Modern Masters&lt;/em&gt; contains a foil instead of a basic land, for example. &lt;em&gt;Dragon's Maze&lt;/em&gt; contains a Gate, shockland, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maze%20End&quot;&gt;Maze End&lt;/a&gt; instead of a basic land. &lt;em&gt;Innistrad&lt;/em&gt; replaces a regular common with a dual-faced card of any rarity. The &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Alara&lt;/em&gt; Premium Foil Booster&amp;quot; contains 15 foils from the block. And so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* &lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; How the sheets are divided up and packaged is not necessarily the same as how they're printed, changes on an almost set-by-set basis, and is not published information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T12:09:54.047" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18950" CreationDate="2014-09-14T12:13:14.773" Score="9" ViewCount="4502" Body="&lt;p&gt;What moves would have to be played leading up to this, obviously both players would have to chip in, but how would this work? Is it even possible to get this board playing with actual rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8530" LastActivityDate="2019-07-08T11:20:29.620" Title="Checkers (Draughts) Capture all pieces in 1 move" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18949" CreationDate="2014-09-14T14:29:12.717" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, on an 8x8 board and the regular American checkers rules, you can capture at most 9 out of the 12 pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XIOMz.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white king can capture here the sequence (in chess notation) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;h8 x f6 x h4 x f2 x d4 x b6 x d8 x f6 x d4 x b2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the white king passes the squares f6 and d4 multiple times, which is allowed (what is not allowed, is jumping the same piece more than once). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because a jumped piece is at least 2 rows and columns away from another jumped piece, it is impossible to add more pieces to this configuration. And because of the board symmetry, it is easy to see that shifting the pieces will also not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 10x10 board using International draughts rules (where kings can skip multiple empty squares before and after a jump), the maximum you can capture is 19 out of the 20 pieces in the initial position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hxdDm.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Figuring out the correct capture sequence is left as an exercise :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Proof game&lt;/strong&gt; for reaching the second position&#xA;1. 31-27 17-21 2. 33-28 21-26 3. 39-33 11-17 4. 44-39 17-21 5. 28-22 6-11 6. 50-44 11-17 7. 22x11 20-24 8. 11-6 12-17 9. 35-30 24x35 10. 34-30 35x24 11. 40-34 7-11 12. 34-30 24x35 13. 39-34 1-7 14. 6-1 8-12 15. 43-39 2-8 16. 34-30 35x24 17. 48-43 14-20 18. 32-28 21x23 19. 39-34 10-14 20. 37-31 26x30 21. 45-40 5-10 22. 44-39 20-25 23. 39-34 30x28 24. 41-37 15-20 25. 37-32 28x37 26. 38-32 37x28 27. 36-31 16-21 28. 31-27 21x32 29. 46-41 18-22 30. 47-42 22-27 31. 41-37 32x41 32. 49-43 24-29 33. 43-39 29-33 34. 39-34 20-24 35. 34-30 24x44 36. 42-38 33x42 37. 1-6 25-30 38. 6-1 30-34 39. 1-6 34-39 40. 6-1 39-43 41. 1-6 27-31 42. 6-1 28-32 43. 1-6 12-18 44. 6-1 7-12 45. 1-6 23-29 46. 6-1 29-33 47. 1-6 19-24 48. 6-1 24-29 49. 1-6 29-34 50. 6-1 14-19 51. 1-6 19-24 52. 6-1 24-30 53. 1-6 10-14 54. 6-1 14-20 55. 1-6 4-10 56. 6-1 13-19 57. 1-6 9-13 58. 6-1 3-9 59. 1-6 19-23 60. 6-1 13-19 61. 1-6 18-22 62. 6-1 17-21 *&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2017-12-22T20:38:28.847" LastActivityDate="2017-12-22T20:38:28.847" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18969" CreationDate="2014-09-14T21:05:19.477" Score="4" ViewCount="15023" Body="&lt;p&gt;Previously in MTG Online was possible to build decks with cards not present in your collection. This is not possible any more in the latest MTG Online client.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone advice on how I can build a deck with cards which I do not own, pls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T23:14:13.543" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T23:14:13.543" Title="How to build decks with cards not present in my MTG Online collection" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18956" CreationDate="2014-09-14T21:30:00.883" Score="-1" ViewCount="764" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both older MTG Online III (version 3.4.82.414) and the very latest MTG Online client installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The older one fails when running both Kicker.exe or  Renamer.exe since it tries to reach which seems unreachable &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgodownload1.onlinegaming.wizards.com/mtgov3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mtgodownload1.onlinegaming.wizards.com/mtgov3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is older MTG Online client not supported any more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T23:14:22.727" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T23:14:22.727" Title="Is older MTG Online client not supported any more?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18211" CreationDate="2014-09-14T21:46:23.683" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To &quot;die&quot; and &quot;put into the graveyard&quot; are the same thing (See rule 700.6).&#xA;In this case I think Emrakul's ability does not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.6. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.” It is used only when referring&#xA;to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8532" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T21:46:23.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18953" CreationDate="2014-09-14T23:46:14.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's no longer supported. They &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/magic-online-v3-date-and-new-client-update-2014-06-26&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;announced on June 26&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... we'll be turning off access to the current Magic Online client (aka V3) on &lt;strong&gt;July 16&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on the day of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/magic-online-new-beginnings-2014-07-16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;posted this update&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And of course, if you try to download it, you can only get the new version - that ought to be a pretty good sign too.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-09-14T23:46:14.493" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4158" CreationDate="2014-09-15T01:29:48.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When someone has announced check/checkmate, it immediately brings to mind how to get out of check. When in check, each of the following is a legal way to get out of check:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking the piece that checks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving the king to a position where it is not in check&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Moving a piece between the checking piece (rook, bishop, or queen) and the king &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a condition is that your king is no longer in check after the move. So, taking a checking piece is legal, and common. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you capture the piece that is checking you?  In this case yes you can &lt;strong&gt;K&lt;/strong&gt;g1x&lt;strong&gt;Q&lt;/strong&gt;q2 there are no pieces protecting the Black Queen make this move very legal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the White King move out of check? In this case no. There is no place he can move without being captured, Unless he captures the Queen. See provision #1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can White interpose a piece? No the piece checking him is directly in front of his King leaving no intervening squares. A piece could be placed to block the action of the Black Queen. In this case White's only legal move is to capture the Black Queen which is unguarded. If you can't follow one of these provisions you are in checkmate. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessvariants.org/d.chess/matefaq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.chessvariants.org/d.chess/matefaq.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your son made a legal move, but it was not checkmate you can capture it with your king your only legal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8534" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2018-05-01T06:26:37.863" LastActivityDate="2018-05-01T06:26:37.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18959" CreationDate="2014-09-15T04:13:26.197" Score="1" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I m not sure if this belongs here or in RPG, as I feel Warhammer Quest kind of straddles the line between the two. I am also unable to create a tag for Warhammer Quest, so it's tagged Warhammer Fantasy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Warhammer Quest went out of print back in 1998, I think no rule has inspired more argument than Death-blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seem to be two main camps for this rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A monster must be on full wounds and be slain outright with a single attack in order to activate the Death-blow. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any melee attack which inflicts enough damage to kill the monster will activate this rule, regardless of how injured the monster was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DEATH-BLOW&#xA;  (Killing a Monster with a Single Blow)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes a Warrior will hit a Monster so hard that he kills it with a single blow. If this happens he can carry on his attack to the next Monster, getting a chance to kill him too. This follow-on attack represents the mighty swing of the Warrior's blade hacking down his foes in one monstrous blow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is another Monster standing in an adjacent square to the Warrior's initial target, and that is still within the range of his&#xA;  attack, the swing of his blade may catch it too. Roll to hit and wound&#xA;  the Monster as normal. If this Monster is also killed with a single&#xA;  blow, the blow carries on round in the same direction to the next&#xA;  Monster, and so on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This mighty blow, which we call a death-blow, stops when the Warrior fails to kill a Monster with a single blow, or his blade meets&#xA;  an obstacle such as a wall or another Warrior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that if you kill a Monster with a single blow from an arrow or other missile weapon you do not get to carry on to the next&#xA;  Monster, as you cannot hit more than one target with a single arrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only Warriors may make a death-blow, not Monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Warhammer Quest Rulebook, pg 24&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, how do people feel this rule should work RAW?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do people think are the RAI?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any official sources/FAQs for this question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T14:57:57.877" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T20:50:05.320" Title="How does Death-blow work in Warhammer Quest?" Tags="|warhammer-quest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18958" CreationDate="2014-09-15T04:13:26.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules as Written&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of the phrase &lt;em&gt;&quot;kills it with a single blow&quot;&lt;/em&gt; does suggest option 1, that the monster must go from starting wounds to zero wounds as a result of the attack. This is reinforced by needing to kill each following enemy with &lt;em&gt;&quot;a single blow&quot;&lt;/em&gt; or the Death-blow stops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I have seen suggestions that the rule should be interpreted as &lt;em&gt;&quot;if the blow would kill it in a single blow&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, meaning a wounded monster may trigger a Death-blow if the attack inflcited more than it's starting wounds regardless of current wounds. This would allow you to trigger a Death-blow off wounded monsters, but still require the blow to be able to kill them even if they were unwounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules as Intended&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A user on bwarhammerquest.runboard.com claimed to have corresponded with one of the GW game designers about this exact question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bwarhammerquest.runboard.com/p561722,from=rss&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bwarhammerquest.runboard.com/p561722,from=rss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I wrote to Gav Thorpe recently and asked about the Death-blow rule in&#xA;  Warhammer Quest (posted below). With his hundreds, if not thousands,&#xA;  of hours of playtesting behind him, here was his reply on January 11,&#xA;  2013:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Gav, you have to tell us, after 17 years of uncertainty in&#xA;  Warhammer Quest, does a Monster have to be on full Wounds when you&#xA;  strike it in order to cause a Death-blow? We beg you, please end the&#xA;  controversy once and for all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: From what I can remember (and it was a long time ago) there was no&#xA;  restriction on deathblows other than to kill the enemy in one hit. If&#xA;  previously wounded, that just makes it easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gav Thorpe's response suggests option 2, if a wounded enemy is easier to Death-blow, than you must only need to inflict it's current wounds to trigger a Death-blow, making it akin to the D&amp;amp;D feat Cleave. This seems to contradict the RAW however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also been advised that in the recent iOS remake of Warhamer Quest, Death-blow also works as described in option 2 (not owning an iOS device I am unable to confirm this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Official FAQ&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge the only official Wahammer Quest FAQ was in Deathblow Magazine issue 3, and they did not mention this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an unofficial FAQ, this contains many questions marked as clarified by Games Workshop UK, but it also does not mention this rule.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wquest.free.fr/faq/wq_faq_index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wquest.free.fr/faq/wq_faq_index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it really comes down to how hard you want the game to be, and how much you would rather RAW as opposed to RAI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By straight RAW (option 1) the game becomes harder, as if you must inflict their starting wounds in a single blow you will not be able to Death-blow very much at all past the first few levels. This will make it slower to clear monsters and cause the party to take more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The RAI version (option 2) that any killing blow will trigger a Death-blow will make the game easier, as you will get &quot;more attacks&quot;, allowing you to kill monsters faster. This also means even high level characters will continue to make regular Death-blows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update - Option 3?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, the new Warhammer Quest video game provides a 3rd interpretation of the rule, which is kind of a combination of the two. In this game you make a deathblow any time you slay an enemy with the first attack that hits it that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T20:50:05.320" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T20:50:05.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18958" CreationDate="2014-09-15T06:51:34.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quest is hard enough when using option 2, if you look at the in game world; stating wounds is irrelevant, as you kill a foe you feel inspired and move on to the next, who cares if the elf coward put an arrow in him first? Your Troll Slayer Axe must taste blood&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8535" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2014-09-15T12:17:28.777" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T12:17:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18967" CreationDate="2014-09-15T09:42:03.037" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game of Eclipse last night and we encounter a discussion about returning Population Cubes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario:&#xA;You have taken over a system (A) with 2x lab, and a system (B) with 2 white planets.(and more, but not relevant for this example )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Economy has -2 Population Cubes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Research has -2 Population Cubes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mining has -3 Population Cubes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you lost system (B) and you return the 2 cubes to Research. (because its a white planet you can choose)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The status of your Population Cubes now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Economy has -2 Population Cubes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Research has -0 Population Cubes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mining has -3 Population Cubes;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to the cubes when you also lose system (A)? You won't have room for them in the Research bar..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would they overwrite the limit and deny you from any income for that resource?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can choose where you can put it (like a white planet)? (like we declared as most fair)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would they stay in your grave until you have enough room at the start/end of the round?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or maybe something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8536" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T15:59:44.113" Title="Ecplise - Population Cubes full on return" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1824" CreationDate="2014-09-15T11:50:13.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group ignores the story/destiny split and just uses the total as a victory condition. (20 for a shorter game, 25 for about the same, 30 for slightly longer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does weaken some of the effects a little, but it saves pretending the game has any strategy at all and removes the fiddly tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game is being really fun (or really boring!) we may agree to adjust the target mid-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T11:50:13.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-09-15T11:56:06.563" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could do, the game would work perfectly well without farmers.  I would argue against it because this still leaves the new players in a position where they don't see farms being used and don't see how they can score highly if placed well despite the long-term sacrifice of a piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience with teaching Carcassonne, players tend to go very quickly from not understanding how they work, to playing too many farmers too early, then getting a good grasp within a few games.  Just be patient. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7983" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T11:56:06.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18999" CreationDate="2014-09-15T12:38:31.967" Score="1" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 8th Edition High Elf book the Dragonmage is equipped with heavy armour. This is very unusual for a (non-chaos) wizard. A &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; wizard cannot wear armour, magic or otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the fact that can wear normal armour mean he can be upgraded with magic Armour/Shields/Helms or is he forced to keep standard armour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T09:55:37.467" Title="Can a Dragon Mage wear magic armour?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-09-15T14:23:28.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add my 2 cents, I taught the game to my kids (when they were 9). Everything was easy, except how to explain to them the concept of farms. After a few games without any farms, I let them put some meeples inside a field after the game was finished so they could understand how farms work. Now they are playing with farms, but they are not very good with them...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is not really unbalanced without farms, it's just a little more about luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T17:44:31.913" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T17:44:31.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18961" CreationDate="2014-09-15T15:59:44.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/711246/eclipse-official-faq&quot;&gt;official FAQ on BGG&lt;/a&gt;: (italics added by me)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: What happens if I cannot return a Population cube to a track because it is full? This might occur if you return cubes from grey squares to different tracks than where they originally came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: The track may be filled completely, so that no number is visible. This means that you do not have any production of that Resource. &lt;em&gt;If a track is full and you still need to return cubes to it, the cubes must go to any other track(s).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T15:59:44.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18952" CreationDate="2014-09-15T18:19:10.817" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When viewing your collection, click the quantity button and then move the left slider to 0 to show cards you don't own. Once you see them you can just doubleclick them to add them to your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T18:19:10.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7031" CreationDate="2014-09-15T18:32:59.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flights did publish a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/rex/support/FAQ/Rex_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ and Errata&lt;/a&gt; that covers this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: What happens in the rare circumstance that two&#xA;  players have units in the same space when a “Temporary&#xA;  Ceasefire” Influence card is drawn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Since allied players can never have units in the same&#xA;  space, these players are forbidden from forming an alliance&#xA;  at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8539" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T18:32:59.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18695" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:15:16.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Draw 3 was changed to Draw 4 during his turn, therefore, he should draw an extra card. Poor Bonus would not affect this. Poor Bonus gives him an extra card, not affecting the normal Draw amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:15:16.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18251" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:19:16.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ability is called 'taxing'. You may do it once per turn (which means it can't be split up). You may tax before or after you build a district.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:19:16.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17903" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:21:17.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once somebody builds eight districts, it triggers end end of game to finish the current round. This trigger cannot be undone. The rules do also state that the warlord may not destroy a building of the player who triggered this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:21:17.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11628" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:28:03.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules/cards always say to put cards back at the bottom of the draw pile. Chances of actually seeing those cards again in a single game are extremely rare. There may be one card that lets you look through the draw pile, hence, you should be able to find any cards put back there. Since the rules never mention any other piles, that means you cannot create your own piles (and in this case, a discard pile). So the debate would be if you destroy a card, does it go to the bottom of the draw pile or the box (and out of the game completely)? And with that, the general consensus and common method of play is to put the card underneath the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:28:03.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18687" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:31:06.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, play-by-mail isn't really an appropriate medium to play Risk, for a number of reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gameplay is too long, even when just considering playing &lt;em&gt;in person.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;while only one player can &quot;act&quot; during a turn, defending players get to roll defending die on each attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;choices to invade where, and in what quantity, are made by evaluating the whole board--something that can't be done if played simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gameplay is too long&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Risk can, depending on the players skill levels, take several hours.  This is with immediate feedback from rolls and direct communication. To turn it into mail adds months to complete a single game.  I'm not sure a single game of Risk can maintain engagement over that long a time.  Even with email being much faster, it still suffers the other below issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Defending players&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is definitely possible that the &lt;em&gt;defending&lt;/em&gt; players' rolls can be taken by the player staging his attacks, but this has a number of drawbacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defending player doesn't get the enjoyment of defending his own territories with his own rolls, and thus all he/she gets in return is a summation &quot;sorry, you lost the following territories; they are now occupied with my armies in these quantities&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a necessity that the attacking armies do the rolls for both the attacking die and the defending die (whether manually or assisted with a phone app or website). If the defending player is given the opportunity to make his own rolls, that actually means EACH attack requires a round-trip of correspondence: one to declare the attack, how large, and what the rolls were; the other to defend the attack and what the rolls were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after it has resolved could the attacking army know whether to press the attack, to give up, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simultaneous play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even two players couldn't decide to play simultaneously, much less more than two.  Take for example, two armies incidentally and simultaneously attacking a third party's territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whose resolves first?  This is natural to playing on a board, where you might just go clockwise, but simultaneous play will have to 'emulate' what it means to go clockwise then--and if so, then it's no longer simultaneous: whoever falls lower on the priority of his turn--his actions are pretty much null and void.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider players A and B attacking player C with only 1 defending unit.  If A and B both send 15 armies after C's 1 unit, and A is determined to resolve first, B's entire plan of taking a territory, then adjacent territories no longer is applicable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, the nature of Risk is synchronous and to modify it to play via a medium--mail or email--is too much work for the reward.  If none of these are compelling enough reasons, even just consider the setting up the board: do you really want to send an email after each ONE army is placed, and have dozens or hundreds of emails (with their delay) to get the board set up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:31:06.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2435" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:35:39.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have -&lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt;- purple district card (wishing well) and you have -&lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt;- purple district cards. Count them up minus the wishing well and that is the number of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:35:39.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:42:35.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We now play with the &lt;strong&gt;Witch&lt;/strong&gt; instead of the &lt;strong&gt;Assassin&lt;/strong&gt;. The &lt;strong&gt;Assassin&lt;/strong&gt; is too powerful. Get hit twice in a game and there's no chance for a comeback. With the &lt;strong&gt;Witch&lt;/strong&gt;, the beweitched character still gets a little something and the &lt;strong&gt;Witch&lt;/strong&gt; character guarantees you a role that round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also play with an enhanced &lt;strong&gt;Queen&lt;/strong&gt; to make her as valuable as the other roles. If &lt;strong&gt;Queen&lt;/strong&gt; is sitting next to &lt;strong&gt;King&lt;/strong&gt;, she gets 3 gold. We add on: if she is sitting 1 away from King, she gets 2 gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:42:35.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="866" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:54:46.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always sit in a circle (or circle-ish) so the moderator can stand in the middle and twirl to see everyones eyes. We have silent nights. Moderator asks werewolves to open their eyes and all agree on a kill by pointing to a single player. Misc noises can always be heard by people coughing or the dog making noise. You're never really sure if the noise is cause for alarm. Nobody ever gets out of their chair though during this time except for dead people, who can help add noises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:54:46.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2014-09-15T21:57:30.803" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our moderator has started with the first night time kill being the previous sheriff. Then daytime. The moderator states the sheriff was killed and asks for any volunteers to take the badge (who gets two votes in ties). Then the game officially begins with a daytime lynching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T21:57:30.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9452" CreationDate="2014-09-15T22:02:02.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must build 3 settlements consecutively (which means all 3 right now, in a row, one after the other) during the current turn. So long as they are placed next to existing settlements, they can be split up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T22:02:02.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7808" CreationDate="2014-09-15T22:07:44.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Place according to the 3 endgame win cards. But generally keep your options open for expansion by starting with small areas you can fill up quick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8540" LastActivityDate="2014-09-15T22:07:44.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18982" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-16T03:13:49.437" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T03:13:49.437" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T03:13:49.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18983" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-16T03:13:49.437" Score="0" Body="For questions about the official Magic: the Gathering Online client." OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T03:53:25.693" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T03:53:25.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18984" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-16T03:40:06.370" Score="2" ViewCount="460" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiance and I just finished playing the Pathfinder ACG through all of the adventure decks and are thinking about getting started again with all new characters from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question we were debating about was whether or not to keep all of the cards from the later adventure decks together or to remove the cards that come after the scenario we're currently playing.  I feel like the game was relatively easy the first time through and it might add some challenge to have a random powerful bane appear in an early scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a particular rule to this or is it just up to the players to decide what they're up for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1866" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T21:00:40.783" Title="Playing Pathfinder ACG with all adventure deck cards in early scenarios" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18986" CreationDate="2014-09-16T10:53:01.597" Score="2" ViewCount="564" Body="&lt;p&gt;The title says it all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can I destroy my own starbase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why would you want this? You might want to 'move' the starbase to another system. By destroying your own starbase you can build a new one at the desired new location. Only of course when you have built all starbases and have none left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, should I have to shoot it? or pick it off the board (is it then a build/move action)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8536" LastEditorUserId="8536" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T11:46:04.370" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T14:29:53.890" Title="Can you destroy your own starbases?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18985" CreationDate="2014-09-16T14:29:53.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot. The rules don't specifically clarify this; but there is nothing that would ever allow you to destroy a starbase or ship of your own. A combat only occurs when multiple ships/starbases belonging to different players are in the same sector; and combat is the only way that the rules allow for something to be removed from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T14:29:53.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18988" CreationDate="2014-09-16T15:47:39.643" Score="3" ViewCount="1150" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the coming rotation with Khans of Tarkir being released, will there be any way to remove from the battlefield a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Citadel&quot;&gt;Darksteel Citadel&lt;/a&gt; that has been turned into a creature by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nissa%2C%20Worldwaker&quot;&gt;Nissa, Worldwaker&lt;/a&gt;'s first +1 ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the me that being indestructible and also a land protect it from almost all removal, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devour%20Flesh&quot;&gt;Devour Flesh&lt;/a&gt; in the current standard being the only obvious exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for solutions in the soon-to-be Theros + Khans of Tarkir standard format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T07:13:16.400" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T19:13:19.397" Title="How can I remove a Darksteel Citadel animated by Nissa, Worldwaker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18987" CreationDate="2014-09-16T15:50:01.940" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any card that says &amp;quot;Exile target creature&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;Exile target artifact&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;Exile target permanent&amp;quot; will remove an animated Darksteel Citadel. Cards that do this include&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devouring%20Light&quot;&gt;Devouring Light&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Light&quot;&gt;Pillar of Light&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashen%20Rider&quot;&gt;Ashen Rider&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chained%20to%20the%20Rocks&quot;&gt;Chained to the Rocks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curse%20of%20the%20Swine&quot;&gt;Curse of the Swine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Excoriate&quot;&gt;Excoriate&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fade%20Into%20Antiquity&quot;&gt;Fade Into Antiquity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gild&quot;&gt;Gild&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if it's toughness ever drops to 0, it will die as a state based effect. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lash%20of%20the%20Whip&quot;&gt;Lash of the Whip&lt;/a&gt;, for example, will kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-16T16:22:43.927" LastActivityDate="2014-09-16T16:22:43.927" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18987" CreationDate="2014-09-16T19:54:59.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apart from Exile Effects; the Other things that can deal with indestructible creature-lands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-X/-X abilities like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nightmarish%20End&quot;&gt;Nightmarish End&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lash%20of%20the%20Whip&quot;&gt;Lash of the Whip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrifice abilities like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dead%20Drop&quot;&gt;Dead Drop&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bounce effects like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whelming%20Wave&quot;&gt;Whelming Wave&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Peel%20from%20Reality&quot;&gt;Peel from Reality&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aetherspouts&quot;&gt;Aetherspouts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Polymorph effects like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turn%20to%20Frog&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphist%27s%20Jest&quot;&gt;Polymorphist&amp;#39;s Jest&lt;/a&gt; (although I think you'll have to kill the frog before ToF wears off).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T19:13:19.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T19:13:19.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18943" CreationDate="2014-09-17T08:14:59.060" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The risk of getting boxed in is always something you have to pay attention to. (Of course, the risk is greatest for this with the Chaos Magicians)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I only played the engineers once (and won with about 135 points), so I don't have much experience with them.  The stronghold ability is very strong but should be used &lt;em&gt;situationally&lt;/em&gt;. What I mean by this is that you should &lt;em&gt;not focus too hard on building bridges&lt;/em&gt;. I had my first point scoring bridge in round 2 (because for scoring points there have to be 2 buildings at either end of the bridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very important (like always) is the position of the starting dwellings. I chose C11 (lots of possible bridges) and E7 (mainly for power leeching), but of course this depends from game to game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also built only 1 bridge with 2 workers, the other 2 bridges I built with the power bridge action. I think you should always do it like that if it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T08:14:59.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18984" CreationDate="2014-09-17T17:24:20.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official rule or FAQ per se. On page 19 of the rule book it gives some guidance on what to do after you have completed all the adventures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read on other forums that some do go ahead, adding cards from other adventure decks, but that this will make the game more difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6620" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T17:24:20.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-09-17T18:37:22.677" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I learned, I think someone forgot to tell us about farms (or maybe omitted it intentionally). The game seemed to go fine without them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8546" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T18:37:22.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="18997" CreationDate="2014-09-17T22:08:55.410" Score="1" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does the static ability of e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rageblood%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Rageblood Shaman&lt;/a&gt; work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording is &amp;quot;Other Minotaur creatures you control get +1/+1 and have trample. &amp;quot;&#xA;The questions I have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) If Rageblood Shaman is on the battlefield and another Minotaur comes into play does it get/have trample and/or +1/+1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) If Rageblood Shaman is removed from the Battlefield do other Minotaur creatures still in play lose +1/+1 and or trample?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) Since this effect has no cost and no trigger it is a static ability, it applies at any time as long as Rageblood Shaman is on the battlefield. If a Minotaur gets +1/+1 at any time it becomes a infinity/infinity creature. I assume this to be wrong but why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8548" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-17T22:19:13.063" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T13:14:54.187" Title="How does Rageblood Shaman's ability work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18995" CreationDate="2014-09-17T22:24:07.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first part of (c) in your question is essentially the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this effect has no cost and no trigger it is a static ability, it applies at any time as long as Rageblood Shaman is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to (a) is yes, a Minotaur that enters play after the Rageblood Shaman has +1/+1 and trample. And the answer to (b) is that yes, if Rageblood Shaman leaves the battlefield, other Minotaur creatures no longer have +1/+1 and trample. (Though if they had trample for another reason, they of course keep it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for this bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Minotaur gets +1/+1 at any time it becomes a infinity/infinity creature. I assume this to be wrong but why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is indeed wrong. Rageblood Shaman's ability does exactly what it says, no more, no less: it gives +1/+1 and trample. It applies at all times, but the effect is still just applied once. If you Rageblood Shaman along with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pensive%20Minotaur&quot;&gt;Pensive Minotaur&lt;/a&gt; (which says 2/3 on the card), it has +1/+1 and is a 3/4. And since it's a static ability, that keeps on being true, it doesn't end at the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, it's not that at every moment it gets +1/+1 compared to the previous moment (I think this is what you were suggesting). It's that at every moment, it gets +1/+1 compared to what it would be before applying that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T13:14:54.187" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T13:14:54.187" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18995" CreationDate="2014-09-17T22:25:30.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This ability is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Static_ability&quot;&gt;static ability&lt;/a&gt;. The important rules from that page say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;604.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Static abilities do something all the time rather than being activated or triggered. They are written as statements, and they're simply true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;604.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Static abilities create &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot;&gt;continuous effects&lt;/a&gt;, some of which are prevention effects or replacement effects. These effects are active as long as the permanent with the ability remains on the battlefield and has the ability, or as long as the object with the ability remains in the appropriate zone, as described in rule 112.6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the first rule, Minotaurs &quot;getting&quot; +1/+1 isn't an event that happens (and definitely not repeatedly), it's just stating a fact: that each other Minotaur has one more power and toughness than it would otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding continuous effects, the rules say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3a&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t &quot;locked in&quot;; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3b&lt;/strong&gt; The effect applies at all times that the permanent generating it is on the battlefield or the object generating it is in the appropriate zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, any time Rageblood Shaman and another Minotaur are on the battlefield, that Minotaur gets +1/+1 and trample. It doesn't matter which entered first, and it only works when the Shaman is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-09-17T22:25:30.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18624" CreationDate="2014-09-18T09:47:53.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, I prefer not to raise a one-level opening bid without the requisite number of trumps, as one tends to use the law of total tricks to decide how the level to which to compete.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When partner has opened a weak 2 bid or overcalled in a pre-emptive manner, you are in control and raising with fewer trumps but a lower honour is feasible as you know you are filling partner's suit and producing more winners should it be trumps, and that a 4-2 split is not likely to affect partner too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in game bidding, you will sometimes consider a 5-2 major suit trump fit with honours in partner's suit although you can't guarantee here partner has honours too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My favourite singleton to hold opposite a pre-empt is the queen. The assumption is that partner has pre-empted with KJ10xxx which could potentially have 3 losers against a 4-2 break but if my singleton is the queen it is probably 1 loser, losing to the ace which you are always going to lose to anyway. Jack is next best (partner has KQ10xxx) and then king (partner has AQxxxx or AQJxxx or AJ10xxx etc.). Having these and quick tricks outside I will certainly be looking for game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T09:47:53.123" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="18999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18965" CreationDate="2014-09-18T09:55:37.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 8th edition the &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Magical Interference&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; rule (Magic Items, pg 500) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wizards cannot choose magic armour unless they have an option for&#xA;  'normal' armour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes on to say that most Wizards cannot use magic while wearing armour, but that any Wizard that &lt;em&gt;&quot;has armour as part of his standard equipment or an option for 'normal' armour&quot;&lt;/em&gt; is an exception, having trained to do so without penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, any wizard with armour/access to armour can wear it and cast spells as normal, and can be upgraded with magical armour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most wizards do not have access to armour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T09:55:37.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19003" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:21:07.447" Score="6" ViewCount="4441" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an upgrade (eg: Strongbox) on a server (eg : Archives) - can I Rez it during a run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If i can, how does this differ if there is Ice or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8555" LastEditorUserId="8555" LastEditDate="2014-09-18T14:26:53.797" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T14:34:05.777" Title="Can you Rez an upgrade during a run? And when?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:21:30.180" Score="0" ViewCount="779" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work with a group of people who frequently like to play table top games and the like during lunch hour, and I've been wanting to play some M:TG. The problem though, is that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only myself and one other person has their own cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We frequently have 3+ people playing at once so even buying precon 1v1 decks wouldn't be feasible since it would leave others unable to play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to build a few decks that can be played in a two-headed giant format, where the decks are as balanced against each other as possible... Also wouldn't mind having a card list for 5 good star format decks for when we have 5 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is anybody aware of any sites that have such card lists? I can't come up with a google search query that proves promising.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8528" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T19:28:53.397" Title="Are there any resources available for building custom battle decks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19004" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:30:54.107" Score="5" ViewCount="1413" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I Rez a trap (eg: &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03016&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Howler&lt;/a&gt;) which programs can break subroutines on it? Is it just AI like &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01051&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crypsis&lt;/a&gt; or are there others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8555" LastEditorUserId="18439" LastEditDate="2017-11-03T05:41:35.503" LastActivityDate="2017-11-03T05:41:35.503" Title="Which programs can break subroutines on a trap?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19000" CreationDate="2014-09-18T14:34:05.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can rez an upgrade anytime the &quot;Rez&quot; symbol appears on the timing chart for the structure of a run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mostly the same as when paid-abilities can be used, there are a couple of paid ability windows where you cannot rez cards, the most notable being the &quot;Encounter&quot; window with ICE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, this is timing sections 2.3 and 4.3. Also before and after every action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Runner starts, names server.&#xA;2. Approach outermost ICE.&#xA;2.1. Paid ability&#xA;2.2. Jack out (goto 6) or not&#xA;2.3. Approached ICE can be rezzed&#xA;     Paid ability can be used&#xA;     Cards can be rezzed.&#xA;2.4. Check if ICE is rezzed.&#xA;3. Runner Encounters Ice if rezzed.&#xA;3.1. Icebreakers can interact&#xA;     Paid abilities can be used&#xA;3.2. Resolve all unbroken subroutines&#xA;     If run hasn't ended, and there's another piece of ICE, goto 2.&#xA;     If run ended, goto 6.&#xA;4. Runner approaches attacked server&#xA;4.1. Paid abilities can be used.&#xA;4.2. Jack out (goto 6) or continue.&#xA;4.3. Paid abilities may be used&#xA;     Cards may be rezzed.&#xA;4.4. Run is successful. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;4.5. Access cards. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;5. Run ends. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;6. Run is unsuccessful. Trigger abilities if any.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there isn't any ice, you won't have the 2.3 timing window, and so you can only rez your upgrade at the 4.3 timing window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T14:34:05.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19002" CreationDate="2014-09-18T15:03:12.210" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traps generally do not have one of the 3 usual subtypes (Barrier, Code Gate, or Sentry). So they cannot be broken by breakers for those types of ice. In general you need an AI breaker like Crypsis, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/honor-and-profit/overmind-honor-and-profit&quot;&gt;Overmind&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/the-spin-cycle/mala-tempora/knight-mala-tempora&quot;&gt;Knight&lt;/a&gt;, or any of the other AI breakers. However traps can still be bypassed with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/femme-fatale-core&quot;&gt;Femme&lt;/a&gt;, just like any other ice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some traps DO have a breakable subtypes. Such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/core/data-mine-core&quot;&gt;data mine&lt;/a&gt;. Because this trap is AP it can be broken with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardgamedb.com/index.php/netrunner/android-netrunner-card-spoilers/_/genesis/a-study-in-static/deus-x-a-study-in-static&quot;&gt;Deus Ex&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T15:03:12.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19006" CreationDate="2014-09-18T16:47:50.023" Score="3" ViewCount="1822" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, &lt;strong&gt;as the US, I want to place influence in Mexico&lt;/strong&gt;.  The only other influence I have in Central America is in Panama, a few spaces away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thematically this seems obvious, yes. They're directly connected to me. But I don't get a precise answer from the rule book.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say the following [my emphasis]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6.1.1 Influence markers are placed one at a time. However, all markers must be placed with, or adjacent to, &lt;strong&gt;friendly markers&lt;/strong&gt; that were in place at the start of the phasing player’s Action Round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the superpower space count as a friendly marker?  According to 2.1.6, it is adjacent&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2.1.6 Countries are connected to one another via the black, red and brown lines on the map. Brown lines represent connections within a region. Red dashed lines represent connections between countries in different regions. &lt;strong&gt;The black lines indicate connections between countries and superpowers. A country is considered adjacent to all other countries to which it is connected.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see a definition of &quot;friendly&quot; elsewhere in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:08:21.397" Title="In Twilight Struggle, can I place influence in countries that border my superpower?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19005" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:08:21.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Upon closer inspection of the rules, I found the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6.1.4 Influence markers may always be placed in any country that is adjacent (connected) to the phasing player’s superpower space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, the US player can place influence in Mexico, just because it's adjacent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:08:21.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19001" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:33:03.727" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would buy enough of the Duel Decks for each player to have one. Even though each set is not balanced against the other sets, they are going to be the best value you will find for pre-built decks from wizards. They have a very reasonable power level for the most part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/arcana/announcing-duel-decks-anthology-2014-08-07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizards is releasing the older duel deck&lt;/a&gt;s in December as part of an anthology- it might be worth waiting for that, depending on your timeline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you you have played with them a few times you might want to supplement the decks with a booster pack or two, or cards from your existing collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason I suggest these instead of building your own is that there's no way to see what decks you could really build with the cards &amp;amp; budget you have without going through your card pool and building the decks myself. I also find that having a base deck that is not packed full of great cards really lends itself to learning how to build fun decks by tweaking the existing deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good idea about the star format. I really enjoy the tension that having the mixed enemy/ally groups provides. For some playgroups it is valuable to have a prescribed target so that people don't get analysis-paralysis trying to decide who to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastActivityDate="2014-09-18T18:33:03.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18940" CreationDate="2014-09-18T18:56:20.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes he can use his ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/7fZSas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Ghost Town card reads&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During their turns, eliminated players return to the game as ghosts.&#xA;They draw 3 cards  instead of 2, and cannot die. At the end of their&#xA;turn, they are eliminated again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it states that they are to draw cards, so the ghost's will enter at phase 1, the draw phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/63490/bang-claus-saint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Clause &amp;quot;The Saint&amp;quot;'s&lt;/a&gt; special abillity is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He draws one card more than the number of players, keeps 2 for&#xA;himself, then gives 1 to each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the answer to Q14 on the FAQ for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang_high_noon/bang_high_noon_faq_eng.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;High Noon&lt;/a&gt; from the publisher dV Giochi:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q14. How many cards &lt;a href=&quot;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.no/2011/03/character-guide-bill-noface.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bill Noface&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.no/2011/05/character-guide-pixie-pete.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pixie Pete&lt;/a&gt; draw when they enter in play as ghosts  thanks to the Ghost&#xA;Town?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Bill Noface enters in play with 5 cards, Pixie Pete with 3 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can see that a players special ability does not suffer from the Ghost Town card being put into play.&#xA;However as Claus &amp;quot;The Saint&amp;quot; is not specified in any FAQ that I could find, we do not know if he should have gotten the advantage that the Ghost Town card gives (&amp;quot;adding an extra card to the ghost&amp;quot;, and thus giving him 6 cards to draw. So that he would end up with 3 cards for himself.), but seeing that Pixie Pete starts with 3 cards and not 4 (His special ability +1 (for the &amp;quot;extra card&amp;quot; from the Ghost Town), we have to assume that Claus &amp;quot;The Saint&amp;quot; get neither benefits or drawbacks from the the Ghost Town card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8556" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T09:34:19.703" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19009" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T01:52:07.180" Score="2" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a bit confused about the owner benefit for Proxima Cenatauri Scholars. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Scholars may not place or removemore than one field generator per turn. Does this mean :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) the Scholars can only place one generator, or remove one generator - ie use the benefit only once per turn &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) the Scholars can remove and place a generator as many times as they like, as long as it is the same generator each time? eg pay 6 fuel,  place the repulsor on the Rev to get an agenda victory point, remove the repulsor, then place it on another territory? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks very much &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8557" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T10:54:46.750" Title="How many times can Proxima Cenatauri Scholars use its owner benefit?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18624" CreationDate="2014-09-19T02:12:31.467" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the whole, something like QJ is not quite as good as xxx, opposite xxxxx, even though there are some situations where it is better. More to the point, KQ is better than xxx because its sheer strength compensates for its lack of length. And KJ is an intermediate case because it is like a KQ if the opposing A is &quot;onside&quot; a finesse, and like a QJ if it is offside. A QJ may be regarded by some as an &quot;adequate&quot; substitute for xxx, but only in a &quot;pinch.&quot; And it does have the potential to cause some partnership misunderstanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of the two high honors is that it gives a sixth card to the opponents, and possible distributions of 3-3, 4-2, 5-1, and even 6-0. An opposing 3-3 is no worse for you than a 3-2, but the 3-3 appears only 36% of the time compared to almost 68% for the 3-2 (you have eight small cards, the opponents have five). A 4-2 distribution is no worse than a 4-1, but your opponents get this 48% of the time, versus only 28%. So we have to look at the 20% &quot;overage&quot; for 4-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your xxxxx in hand is actually T9xxx, then you're better off with the QJ because of the resulting sequence. They will fall to the AK, but your T9 will pick up the remaining opposing low cards and your fifth card will give you a third &quot;long&quot; trick. (T8 or 98 will also work of the opposing singleton is the missing intermediate card.) If my low cards are 65432, I'd rather have 987 opposite than QJ, because of the larger number of times that the opponents' 4-2 will give them four tricks in the suit than 4-1. Similar arguments hold for 5-1 versus 5-0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer is the QJ. Declarer is likely to have Kxxxx, Axxxx, or even Txxxx, in which case, the QJ will be more valuable as &quot;filler&quot; than the extra low trump would be. It would even be helpful opposite AKxxx or AKTxxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With KQ opposite xxxxx, you're actually better off than with xxx. The KQ is a sure trick, and you will take a two &quot;long tricks&quot; (total of three) if your opponents have 3-3. If they have 4-2 with six cards you will take only two tricks, but you're no worse off than with and opposing 3-2 and no honors opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T18:13:14.970" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T18:13:14.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19011" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-19T12:20:13.167" Score="1" ViewCount="1909" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, here's the play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staunch-Hearted%20Warrior&quot;&gt;Staunch-Hearted Warrior&lt;/a&gt; on the field. They play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Totem&quot;&gt;Living Totem&lt;/a&gt; and target the warrior, giving the warrior a +1/1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 1: Would Living Totem's ability trigger Staunch-Hearted Warrior's heroic ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the game now. Next turn, player 1 plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Invasive%20Species&quot;&gt;Invasive Species&lt;/a&gt; and returns Living Totem to their hand. On the following turn, they play Living Totem back onto the battlefield.&#xA;Would Living Totem's ability trigger again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8560" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T14:43:15.797" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T16:07:09.643" Title="Do &quot;enter the battlefield&quot; abilities trigger heroic? Do creatures that leave and reenter the battlefield trigger again?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-03-13T14:21:54.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19011" CreationDate="2014-09-19T12:32:07.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Living totems has a triggered ability that adds +1/+1 counters, which triggers upon him entering the battlefield. That is not the same thing as 'casting a spell that targets Staunch-Hearted warrior', so the Staunch-Hearted Warrior's heroic ability will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you target the Staunch-Hearted Warrior with an enchantment, then bounced it, and then recast it, it would trigger the Staunch-Hearted Warrior's heroic ability twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T12:32:07.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19011" CreationDate="2014-09-19T13:54:14.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question 1: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature spells (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Totem&quot;&gt;Living Totem&lt;/a&gt;) don't target. When you cast Living Totem, you do not pick any targets. Once it eventually resolves, it's ability triggers and you choose targets when you place it on the stack. But placing an ability on the stack is not casting a spell, so it doesn't trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staunch-Hearted%20Warrior&quot;&gt;Staunch-Hearted Warrior&lt;/a&gt;'s ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aura spells, on the other hand, always target. Casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Messenger%27s%20Speed&quot;&gt;Messenger&amp;#39;s Speed&lt;/a&gt; targeting Staunch-Hearted Warrior would trigger the latter's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question 2: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Living Totem was in your hand (not on the battlefield) one moment and on the battlefield the next, so it entered the battlefield. As such, it's ETB ability triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T16:07:09.643" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T16:07:09.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19015" CreationDate="2014-09-19T16:10:43.457" Score="2" ViewCount="5962" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may sound like a noob question but I cannot find answer anywhere and I still learning all new stuff since I last played so I will ask here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the rules say about using non-format tokens and basic lands in specific format tournament?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: I want to play token deck in standard tournament but I don't have current standard tokens/basic lands, can I use previous release tokens if they are the same in stats, types, etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8561" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T22:34:08.100" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T22:34:08.100" Title="Can I use tokens and basic lands from outside my format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19014" CreationDate="2014-09-19T16:15:34.763" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If a card (e.g. &quot;Island&quot;) is allowed in the current format, you may place any print of that card into your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even use a print of a card whose text has since been changed in Oracle. The text in Oracle always overrides the text on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards much match the following criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is genuine and published by Wizards of the Coast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card has a standard Magic back or is a double faced card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card does not have squared corners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card has black or white borders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is not a token card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is not damaged or modified in a way that might make it marked&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is otherwise legal for the tournament as defined by the format&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is a proxy issued by the judge of a tournament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(See section 3.3 of the Tournament Rules for a couple of additional notes.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that wear and faded ink on older cards could be construed as markings. Sleeves can address these issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tokens, you can use anything that can be tapped. You can use an Ace of Clubs as your Spirit token if you so desire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T16:56:08.057" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T16:56:08.057" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19014" CreationDate="2014-09-19T16:18:39.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use any black- or white-bordered version of any card that is legal in your format, including basic lands. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; was printed in Magic 2015, so it is standard legal, but you can also use your Onslaught Naturalize and it will be perfectly legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens are not considered Magic cards by tournaments: they don't go in your deck, or in your deck list. You can use any object you want to represent a token, as long as your opponent knows what it's supposed to represent (and, in most cases, you should be able to indicate that it's tapped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-09-19T16:45:11.853" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T16:45:11.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19009" CreationDate="2014-09-19T20:05:42.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is Option A: you may make one placement or removal (not both) per turn. Your suggestion of spending 6 fuel to score an agenda is quite creative, and almost certainly not anticipated by the designers &amp;ndash; there's normally no benefit at all for moving a single field generator multiple times (except, I suppose, to destroy the Relic Ship with the Isolation Field).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not have any specific rules text to back me up, but the Alien Frontiers rules are intended to be as straightforward as possible and allow useful, but not crazy, interactions. There are a handful of weird combinations that were not prohibited by the rules, but were disallowed in later errata. Here's a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ain't no rule that says you can't use the Plasma Cannon's discard power to destroy a player's fourth ship while they have one ship sitting on the Terraforming Station (and thus they'll be down to two ships on their turn).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ain't no rule that says the ships on the Raider's Outpost matter if you remove one with a Plasma Cannon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ain't no rule that says you can't discard the Plasma Cannon to destroy a player's third ship when they also own the Relic Ship. (Have you noticed that the Plasma Cannon has the most weird interactions?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is, you get full points for creativity, but you're stretching the spirit of the rules pretty badly and that's exactly the kind of thing that gets errata'd in Alien Frontiers. The creators run an Errata thread over on BoardGameGeek, if you'd like to ask them directly: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/572710/rule-book-errata/page/2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/572710/rule-book-errata/page/2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My logical fallacy is: Appeal To Authority. I've played Alien Frontiers with Randall Bart, the designer of the Alien Frontiers: Outer Belt expansion and early playtester of Alien Frontiers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T20:05:42.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2014-09-19T21:42:55.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This site has point system. It seems well thought out.&#xA;Not only does it give, points for the bower, but also the up-card, which is very important when bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.euchrestrategy.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Euchre Point System&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8564" LastActivityDate="2014-09-19T21:42:55.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9452" CreationDate="2014-09-19T23:57:19.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are NOT allowed to do is use an ability while placing the mandatory settlements. For example: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place one mandatory settlement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use paddock to gallop it somewhere else&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build your remaining mandatories. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those three settlements have to be played sequentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastEditorUserId="12547" LastEditDate="2017-01-27T22:14:32.780" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T22:14:32.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19021" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-20T01:32:37.053" Score="3" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am making an EDH deck featuring &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ink-Treader%20Nephilim&quot;&gt;Ink-Treader Nephilim&lt;/a&gt; (yes I know its not legendary but the deck will be like five bucks to make and I'm sure someone will want to play with it). As I am looking up decklists online I see that people keep mentioning &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Strike&quot;&gt;Mirror Strike&lt;/a&gt;. The idea is to target Inky with Mirror Strike when someone attacks, turning the entire attack against them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As good as that sounds, I don't think it works.  For a creature to be 'unblocked' it has to be attacking right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8566" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-20T01:53:34.727" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T05:11:41.130" Title="Can I use Mirror Strike on Ink-treader Nephilim when it's not attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19021" CreationDate="2014-09-20T02:03:58.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup, unfortunately you're right. Unblocked means attacking and unblocked, &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; blockers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in the comprehensive rules for the declare blockers step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there's a friendly summary from the glossary at the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unblocked Creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An attacking creature once no creature has been declared as a blocker for it, unless an effect has caused it to become blocked. It remains an unblocked creature until it’s removed from combat or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your &lt;em&gt;opponent&lt;/em&gt; could make good use of Mirror Strike, letting your whole team hit in, targeting the Nephilim (and thus the rest of your team), and sending it all back at you, but... I don't think that's quite what you were looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T05:11:41.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18930" CreationDate="2014-09-20T09:48:10.500" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whatever non-expert game you play (Monopoly, snakes and ladders, etc.), rolling a 6 is good, rolling a 1 is bad. So I'd say &quot;You win if you roll a 4 or more&quot; is the most intuitive way to speak to a non-gamer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T09:48:10.500" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18930" CreationDate="2014-09-20T18:00:31.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an eye toward a professional-quality build of the game eventually, you might want to look into laser-etched dice.. but this doesn't necessarily help you in the prototyping phase. Take a look at Zombie Dice, for instance. Each face is either pass, fail, or neutral; and there are three different colored dice, each with different probability distributions. If you want the most intuitive design, having each face be either a green checkmark or a red X would be your best bet, I think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... If it truly is always a 50/50 chance of success, maybe you're starting with the wrong assumption. Why does it have to be a die roll? In this case, why not flip a coin? Heads - good, tails - bad is perhaps the most intuitive interface for a 50/50 chance. The downside here is that if you boil things down to &lt;em&gt;literally&lt;/em&gt; a coin toss, players may become aware of how big a luck swing they are being subjected to. If they have no way to mitigate a 50/50 chance, and the game is made up of a series of 50/50 chances, they probably aren't going to like the game very much. Make sure your design has sufficient choice outside of those chance encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2571" LastActivityDate="2014-09-20T18:00:31.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13348" CreationDate="2014-09-21T04:28:34.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new version clarified a lot of the rules, and fixed a lot of problems with the game including removing &quot;play anytime&quot; from cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were unable to end the game because people were playing too many cards out of turn, then the removal of the &quot;play anytime&quot; rule from all the cards should reduce this type of stalemate. It is still possible to play cards in response to a mission attempt, but the sequence is more clearly defined, as is when cards can be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new version of the rules can be found here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/84529/redshirts-deluxe-edition-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/84529/redshirts-deluxe-edition-rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T09:14:29.500" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T09:14:29.500" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19033" CreationDate="2014-09-21T04:46:03.650" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;In warhammer fantasy. If I put a character into a chariot and the chariot dies in combat, does the character die with the chariot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, putting a necromancer into a corpse cart and the cart dies in close combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T14:54:15.537" Title="If a chariot dies, does the character die also?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19032" CreationDate="2014-09-21T04:51:01.763" Score="0" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a unit join another unit if they are the same type of unit? If so, what are the conditions for which they can join? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can they join the other unit while the other unit is in close combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a unit of spirit hosts that were summoned trying to join another unit of summoned spirit hosts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T14:42:02.557" Title="Can a unit join another unit if they are the same type of unit?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18930" CreationDate="2014-09-21T06:54:19.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Succeed on a roll of 4+.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unequivocal and plain English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="675" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T06:54:19.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19056" CreationDate="2014-09-21T08:31:23.137" Score="5" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Khans of Tarkir terminology:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Banners are a cycle of mana rocks that can be sacrificed to draw a card (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abzan%20Banner&quot;&gt;Abzan Banner&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wedge lands enter tapped and produce one of three colors (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystic%20Monastery&quot;&gt;Mystic Monastery&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Life lands enter tapped, gain 1 life when played, and produce one of two colors (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismal%20Backwater&quot;&gt;Dismal Backwater&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you know how many banners to play in your deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been practicing with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicdrafting.com/khans-of-tarkir-sealed/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this sealed pool generator&lt;/a&gt;, and on average, I get 1 Wedge Land and 2-3 Life Lands. Is that enough mana fixing? Would you guys advise throwing in 1-2 (maybe not 3) banners? Going to the basics of deck building for sealed pool, it's supposed to be 17 lands, 17 creatures, and 6 other spells. If you throw in 2 banners to fix your mana, it would only leave you with 4 other spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I doing it wrong? Are banners supposed to be counted towards the total land count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8010" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T19:49:59.527" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T19:49:59.527" Title="What mana fixing should I use in Khans of Tarkir Sealed Format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="13" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19037" CreationDate="2014-09-21T14:21:51.860" Score="5" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any cards I could play on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ink-Treader%20Nephilim&quot;&gt;Ink-Treader Nephilim&lt;/a&gt; that would act differently based on who had control of the creature, for that matter, are there any cards in the game that do this at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8569" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:32:41.747" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:32:41.747" Title="Are there cards which work differently on Ink-Treader Nephilim depending on who controls it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19028" CreationDate="2014-09-21T14:42:02.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, units can never join together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forming Units, pg 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once formed into a unit, the models move and fight as a single entity&#xA;  for the rest of the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving your units, pg 13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Individual models are not permitted to leave their units and so a unit effectively remains a single entity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1&quot; Apart, pg 13&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whilst moving a unit is not allowed to appraoch closer than 1&quot; to another unit, friend or foe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only exception to this are Characters, who may join and leave units (pg 96-101). The rules for characters joining and leaving units are detailed and explicit, there are no such rules for normal units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T14:42:02.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19027" CreationDate="2014-09-21T14:54:15.537" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the character mounts section, the rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A chariot mount follows all the rules for ridden monsters, save for the fact that a chariot does not need to take a monster Reaction test if the character is slain. (pg 105)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, if the Corpse Cart were to die, the Necromancer in question would proceed on foot, as he would have if he were on a Ridden Monster which died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T14:54:15.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19034" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-09-21T14:59:07.533" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T14:59:07.533" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T14:59:07.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19035" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-09-21T14:59:07.533" Score="0" Body="Warhammer Quest was a fantasy dungeon, role playing, adventure board game released by Games Workshop in 1995 and set in the Warhammer world." OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T21:40:05.400" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T21:40:05.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19057" CreationDate="2014-09-21T16:13:51.390" Score="-2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was at the prerelease this weekend and someone had a mat that a friend of mine mentioned that he wanted. I tried some googling, but didn't have much success and was hoping someone here might recognize the description and be able to recognize it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a blue mat, with some sort of blue sun that was very bright in the middle, and a blue ice-like surface of a planet in the bottom left corner, the edge of the planet surface being a straight line from left edge of the mat to the bottom. Additionally, it had a life counting section on the right hand side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8571" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T10:49:01.760" Title="Looking for a specific playmat" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-09-28T18:34:33.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19031" CreationDate="2014-09-21T16:21:20.237" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards target a creature and affect that creature's controller, so it some sense they behave differently depending on who controls the target creature. Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22target+creature%22+%28o%3A%22that+creature%27s+controller%22+or+o%3A%22its+controller%22+or+o%3A%22target+creature%27s+controller%22%29+-is%3Apermanent&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a magiccards.info query&lt;/a&gt; for such cards. Of course, since Ink-Treader Nephilim makes those spells target every creature anyway, it doesn't really matter who controls it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Ink-Treader Nephilim's controller controls the spell copies, cards that depend on your board state will have different behavior depending on who controls the Nephilim. For example, if you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAspect%20of%20Hydra%5d&quot;&gt;Aspect of Hydra&lt;/a&gt; targeting your own Nephilim, every creature will get +X/+X, where X is your devotion to green. If you cast it targeting your opponent's Nephilim, then the Nephilim will get +X/+X where X is &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; devotion to green and every other creature will get +X/+X where X is your &lt;strong&gt;opponent's&lt;/strong&gt; devotion to green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, for any spell that affects &quot;you&quot; as part of the spell, the original will affect the player who cast it and each copy will affect the player that controls Ink-Treader Nephilim. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAwe%20Strike%5d&quot;&gt;Awe Strike&lt;/a&gt; is an example of such a card: whoever controls the copies gains the life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, since Ink-Treader Nephilim's ability puts all of the spell copies on the stack at once, its controller chooses the order in which they go on the stack. If a spell hurts the creature's controller for example (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChandra%27s%5d%2b%5bOutrage%5d&quot;&gt;Chandra&amp;#39;s Outrage&lt;/a&gt;), then the Nephilim's controller can put the copies targeting their opponents' creatures on top of the stack and possibly kill their opponents before the copies targeting their own creatures resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if the spell's effect can depend on the number of copies that have already resolved, the Nephilim's controller can arrange them on the stack to maximize their own benefit. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFlesh%20Allergy%5d&quot;&gt;Flesh Allergy&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy target creature. Its controller loses life equal to the number of creatures that died this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the creature's controller loses an additional life for each copy that already resolved. The Nephilim's controller can manipulate the order of the copies to change both how much life each player loses and in what order. In the best case, they can make their opponent lose the game before all of the copies resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T20:49:28.573" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T20:49:28.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19044" CreationDate="2014-09-21T17:16:17.927" Score="6" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I'm playing against a player and we finish game 2 with 5 minutes left in the round. If we draw, both of us will be knocked down, and most likely neither will be eligible for prizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know bribery is against the rules, but could we agree (before the match starts) to something along the lines of &quot;If we draw, whoever has fewer life points will concede so at least one of us can have a chance at prizes&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it the answer will come down to if this is defined as collusion, but I'm having a hard time determining how Wizards defines it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T21:02:49.290" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T13:52:59.340" Title="Can my opponent and I decide on a victory condition to avoid a draw?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19039" CreationDate="2014-09-21T17:29:08.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of Magic itself don't allow for players to change the win conditions. Win/lose/draw conditions are defined in the rules, and unless a tournament director decided differently, you have to play by the win/loss/draw conditions written in the regular rulebook. (And at an official MTG event, the tournament director wouldn't allow otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T17:29:08.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19046" CreationDate="2014-09-21T17:45:31.313" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know a character can join a unit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a unit join a character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a unit join a character that is in close combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T23:00:27.663" Title="Can units join a character in combat?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19039" CreationDate="2014-09-21T20:41:27.630" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bribery and Collusion do not really factor into this.  If there is no agreement (or offer) to exchange something of value for a particular match result, there is no bribery.  &quot;Collusion&quot; is not inherently illegal in the absence of bribery (No rule says I can't concede to my friends because they're my friends.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are running afoul of 'Unsporting Conduct - Improperly Determining a Winner'.  Entering into (or offering) an agreement with your opponent to choose the winner of the match by any means not included in the rules of the game is a disqualification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T23:01:08.960" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T23:01:08.960" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-21T22:40:11.467" Score="1" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious if the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Electrolyze&quot;&gt;Electrolyze&lt;/a&gt; copies created by targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ink-Treader%20Nephilim&quot;&gt;Ink-Treader Nephilim&lt;/a&gt; can be aimed at players for 1 point of damage or if all the damage must go to the creatures that Inky specifies the copies must target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have reason to believe no based on the wording of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Ricochet&quot;&gt;Wild Ricochet&lt;/a&gt;, where it specifies on WR that you can pick new targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sort of question also applies to cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liquid%20Fire&quot;&gt;Liquid Fire&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arc%20Lightning&quot;&gt;Arc Lightning&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8566" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-21T23:00:38.410" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T02:06:58.213" Title="Can Ink Treader Nephilim's Electrolyze copies target players?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19043" CreationDate="2014-09-21T23:00:27.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From BRB p97.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A character must move into a unit to join it.  There is no rule that allows the unit to move to the character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A character cannot join a unit in close combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can however, simply charge into combat alongside the character.  This is often to your advantage for that particular combat, other than not being able to use the character's leadership.  (Two chances to catch the enemy if they flee, if one or the other of yours flees, the other may hold and prevent them form being run down, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2014-09-21T23:00:27.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19045" CreationDate="2014-09-21T23:43:16.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot, because the card specifically states that each copy targets &quot;one of those creatures.&quot; So the target for the copy is specified in the rules of the card itself, there is no option to choose a different target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arc Lightning is the same, but Liquid Fire works a little differently. With liquid fire, there is only one target, the creature. How much damage is done to the creature vs the creature's controller is chosen as you cast the original Liquid Fire, and that same chosen number will be applied to the copies. (By rule Rule 706.10). So if you chose &quot;x = 0&quot;, thus dealing 0 damage to  Ink-Treader Nephilim, and 5 to  Ink-Treader Nephilim's controller, then 0 damage will be dealt to each creature, and 5 to each creature's controller. (So players who control multiple creatures will take 5 damage for each creature they control, not just 5 damage total).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T02:06:58.213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T02:06:58.213" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19051" CreationDate="2014-09-22T03:07:57.303" Score="1" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules for counting victory points it says every defeated or unit that fled off the board counts as points equal to the amount it costs to include in the army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads me to believe that summoned units do not count toward victory points because they were not included in the cost of the army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do summoned units count for victory points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T03:32:24.270" Title="Do summoned units count towards victory points?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19050" CreationDate="2014-09-22T03:32:24.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they do not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you said, they did not cost anything to inlude in the army so are worth zero (unless the unit has a rule that states otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to which, many summoning spells explicitly state this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Raise Dead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Units summoned by this spell cannot be dispelled, and do not award&#xA;  victory points under any circumstances.&lt;/em&gt; (Vampire Counts 8th Edition, pg 60.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T03:32:24.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18506" CreationDate="2014-09-22T03:42:09.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blindfolded go games are rare as the board is much bigger than chess, but some do try it for fun: &lt;a href=&quot;http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjA2MzkxNTI=.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjA2MzkxNTI=.html&lt;/a&gt; it's performed by Bao Yun, a Chinese amateur player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T03:42:09.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-22T05:18:05.617" Score="2" ViewCount="505" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use a &quot;make a run...&quot; event this cost me a click.  Is it possible to use a &quot;make a run...&quot; program with another click cost on the same run?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are more examples but Account Siphon and Sneakdoor Beta are the most attractive combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8555" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:01:52.733" Title="Can I use a program run ability (eg: Sneakdoor Beta) and an run event card (eg: Account Siphon) for the same run?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19055" CreationDate="2014-09-22T05:29:46.210" Score="8" ViewCount="1180" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the runner triggers an ability that says they &quot;pay&quot; a number of credits, who should they pay? The bank or the Corp?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &quot;pay&quot; the same as &quot;loses&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of &quot;pay&quot; abilities and subroutines include Tollbooth and Pop Up Window.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8555" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T16:12:47.403" Title="Who does the Runner pay if a piece if ICE states &quot;runner... pays X Credits&quot;?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19054" CreationDate="2014-09-22T06:22:31.073" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;All transactions are conducted with the bank, credits never change hands directly from one player to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thematically, this makes sense as you can think of runner and corp using different scales of money. One credit to the runner may represent say $1,000 or $10,000, but for the corp it may represent 10 or 100 times that amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a game design perspective, it makes sense as the game was intended to be played with the cardboard credit tokens, but also designed for play between people who own their own sets. With neither player directly giving money to the other, there's no confusion as to whose game pieces are whose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the most specific place in the rulebook is the &lt;em&gt;Credit Pool&lt;/em&gt; definition on page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player has a credit pool where he keeps the credit tokens&#xA;  he has available to spend. Spent credits are returned to the&#xA;  token bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pay&quot;, &quot;lose&quot;, and &quot;spend&quot; have the same effect of credits returning to the bank. The difference is that payments and spending are often optional (unless preceded by &quot;must&quot;), and the payer gains something. &quot;Loses&quot; is common as a penalty from the other player, e.g., from an Account Siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1749" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T16:12:47.403" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T16:12:47.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19030" CreationDate="2014-09-22T07:46:30.093" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana fixers can virtually never be counted as full lands because you need mana to cast them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's take the case of the banners specifically. If you swap out a land for a banner, the main difference is the banner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Costs 3 mana to cast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be sacrificed for a card draw&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) makes them a higher mana screw risk than a land (how happy are you if you mulligan into 2 land+banner instead of 3 land?), while (2) makes them a reduced mana flood risk than a land (sac them if you have nothing better to do with your mana).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They should almost certainly be counted as full spells for purposes of mana ratios, especially if you're also playing lands that come into play tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T04:17:21.270" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T04:17:21.270" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19036" CreationDate="2014-09-22T10:49:01.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it this one? It was found pretty fast by me just by googling &quot;magic playmat blue&quot;. It is the art of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bglacial%20fortress%5d&quot;&gt;glacial fortress&lt;/a&gt; so if you google that you probably find places where you can buy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CGAV7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T10:49:01.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19053" CreationDate="2014-09-22T11:59:27.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these are a single 'click' to actually play.  Sneakdoor Beta specifically lists that you are using a click to use it's ability.  That click kicks off a run, but the click starts at using Sneakdoor Beta's card ability.  Once the run starts, you can no longer user clicks to play cards, use card abilities, ect.  On the same token, to play Account Siphon, you must use a click to play the event card.  As you do, the event card kicks off a run, but again, the click starts at playing a card ability.  This is all by design so you can't stack up a bunch of 'run' abilities.  It would also make other cards broken, like the event card for Shapers that lets you consider one piece of ice as all three types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things that will work?  Security Testing and Dirty Laundry.  +2 credits the first time you succesfully run a chosen server and +5 credits for completing a successful run on a server.  You use the click to play the event card and, since it was the first successful run on that server, you get the security testing instead of accessing cards.  Add in Desperado for a +1 credit after every successful run and play as Ken to get +1 credits from playing a run event and you're looking at a net of +7 credits for one run.  But that's just an example of the synergy that IS possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T11:59:27.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19061" CreationDate="2014-09-22T15:46:24.207" Score="7" ViewCount="1274" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if you draw a objective card that has a specific pattern, and it already exists in the garden, for one reason or another. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw a plot card and that exact same shape is already existing in the garden (including the right parameters). Can you just show your objective card as &lt;em&gt;fulfilled&lt;/em&gt; and get the points without doing anything else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw a gardener card and you need 3 four-level bamboo in the garden. If there's an existing four-level bamboo in the garden, do you only need to do 2 more?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in each example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8305" LastEditorUserId="8305" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T01:29:20.753" LastActivityDate="2019-05-09T18:56:15.710" Title="Takenoko: What happens if you draw a card that has an existing pattern in the garden?" Tags="|takenoko|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19060" CreationDate="2014-09-22T16:39:16.640" Score="12" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You draw a plot card and that exact same shape is already existing in the garden&#xA;  (including the right parameters) Can you just show your objective card as &lt;em&gt;fulfilled&lt;/em&gt; and&#xA;  get the points without doing anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. At any point in your turn, you can play as many fulfilled objective cards from your hand as you like. I've found this often happens at the end of the game... drawing a card in hopes that the objective is already fulfilled is a decent strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You draw a gardener card and you need 3 four-level bamboo in the garden. If there's an &#xA;  existing four-level bamboo in the garden, do you only need to do 2 more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, provided they're the same color. As it often happens with objective cards, other players may be configuring the garden to suit your objectives without even knowing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T16:39:16.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19062" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19063" CreationDate="2014-09-22T17:24:29.030" Score="5" ViewCount="1724" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a Sliver deck vs a co-worker today, and he played an illusion deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ixidron&quot;&gt;Ixidron&lt;/a&gt;. I was having a hard time grasping how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coat%20of%20Arms&quot;&gt;Coat of Arms&lt;/a&gt; would work with Ixidron turning everything face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ixidron basically says all face-down cards are creatures. Is creature a type that Coat of Arms would be pairing with and make everything huge, or would coat of arms essentially do nothing to all of those face down cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8406" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T23:42:20.573" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T18:36:28.247" Title="What effect does Coat of Arms have on face-down creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19062" CreationDate="2014-09-22T17:26:30.027" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From that same page (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures turned face down by Ixidron are 2/2 creatures with no text, no name, &lt;b&gt;no subtypes&lt;/b&gt;, no expansion symbol, and no mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Creature type&quot; is a shorthand for a creature-specific subtype (205.3m in the Comprehensive Rules). Face-down creatures have no creature type, so Coat of Arms does not affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastEditorUserId="6587" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T18:36:28.247" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T18:36:28.247" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19065" CreationDate="2014-09-22T17:31:48.980" Score="0" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control the following two enchantments: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bottomless%20Pit&quot;&gt;Bottomless Pit&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necrogen%20Mists&quot;&gt;Necrogen Mists&lt;/a&gt;. At the beginning of my opponent's upkeep do I get to choose which one of the triggered abilities that goes on the stack first or will my opponent make that choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-09-22T18:39:31.083" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T18:39:31.083" Title="Resolving triggered abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-09-22T20:53:37.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19064" CreationDate="2014-09-22T17:42:36.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you control the source of both triggered abilities, you choose the order they are put on the stack (and then they resolve in reverse order). If your opponent also has abilities triggering at the same time, he will do the same. The active player (the player whose turn it is) puts their triggers on the stack first, followed by the triggers of all of the other players in turn order. (Thus, the active player's triggers resolve last.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to &lt;em&gt;any situation&lt;/em&gt; where multiple triggers would be placed on the stack at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to know where the trigger is &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; coming from. For example, you can control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pendrell%20Mists&quot;&gt;Pendrell Mists&lt;/a&gt;, but on your opponent's upkeep the triggers that are put on the stack are actually coming from his creatures, not your enchantment, because Pendrell Mists is granting an ability to the creatures, rather than having a trigger itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T17:42:36.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-22T21:21:40.253" Score="1" ViewCount="3740" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have been playing Mahjong for over 45 years and played today with a lady who filled in and we had a discussion regarding payout for betting.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For purposes of this question:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Playing with 4 players at the table and the 5th as the better.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player A calls Mahjong with a self drawn tile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand was a 25 cent hand which would then be doubled to 50 cents since it was a self drawn tile for Mahjong.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since it was also bet on the bettor would also get 50 cents for the winning hand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;SO each player would pay both the winning player and the bettor each 50 cents. Total for each of the two players would be $1.50 each. Am I correct??? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lady who filled in was insistent about the following.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;She said since the player who called Mahjong was also bet on by her then the total that each player needed to pay both the winning player and she, the bettor, was to be double the 50 cents to equal $1.00 total to each of the two players.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This would then make the player with the winning hand paid a total of $3.00 and the bettor also be paid $3.00.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So instead of each of the other 3 players paying out $1.50 to each for a total of $3.00, she insisted it was to be doubled since it was also bet on to a $1.00 payout for each the winning player and also the bettor for a total payout for the 2 players to $6.00.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;She insisted that this was National Mahjong Rules.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As I stated have been playing a very long time and have never had any player state this.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Thanks much for your responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8580" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T21:59:03.300" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T21:59:03.300" Title="Mahjong Betting Rules" Tags="|mahjong|betting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18307" CreationDate="2014-09-22T22:56:51.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scout card is key to this.  It allows you to do an extra exploration which makes it doable in under 8 turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8581" LastActivityDate="2014-09-22T22:56:51.340" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18336" CreationDate="2014-09-23T00:03:45.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not certain there is a definitive answer to this based on the rule book quoted above.  The clause highlighted in the previous answer specifically prohibits &quot;trading with other players,&quot; and does not specifically prohibit trading with the bank, as in a 4:1 trade.  Had the game manufacturers intended to prohibit &quot;all trading&quot; then they would not have been so specific to prohibit just inter-player and maritime trade.  Furthermore, it could be argued that since you can &quot;buy&quot; DCs from the bank then the 4:1 transaction is also a &quot;buy&quot; rather than a trade since it's between the player and bank and not between two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps this is just an unintentionally ambiguous translation from the original German (I think) rules or it's just poorly written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8579" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T00:03:45.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19069" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-23T00:24:09.990" Score="1" ViewCount="7094" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a Pyroar and when it's in play he doesn't place any other pokemon on his bench so I can't have him switch out. Is that allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8582" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-23T09:35:28.433" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T09:35:28.433" Title="Can my opponent really have no benched pokemon, even with a Pyroar?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19069" CreationDate="2014-09-23T01:30:39.630" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.   The rules only require that the player have one Pokemon in the active position.   Pokemon on the bench are optional.   If the opponents active Pokemon is knocked out, and they have no pokemon on the bench to replace it, the attacking player wins.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pyroar has an ability, Intimidating Mane,  which reads&#xA;&quot;Prevent all damage done to this Pokémon by attacks from your opponent's Basic Pokémon.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is up to you to build a deck that includes an appropriate counter to the opponents Pyroar.   This could be Rayquaza's Shred attack, Golurk's Devolution Punch, Staraptor's Strong Breeze, or any other pokemon who's attack reads &quot;This attack's damage isn't affected by any effects on the Defending Pokémon&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you can evolve a Stage 1 or 2 Pokemon, or Mega EX Pokemon, who's attacks aren't blocked by Pyroar's ability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7534" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T01:30:39.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19071" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-23T06:02:12.483" Score="2" ViewCount="1059" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may seem obvious, but apparently Axis and Allies 1941 has eliminated the construction of factories, and AA guns? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do these changes affect the play of the game as compared to say, the Classic Edition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8583" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-06-25T16:13:06.920" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T21:02:20.323" Title="Differences between Axis and Allies 1941 and classic edition" Tags="|axis-and-allies|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18795" CreationDate="2014-09-23T06:44:55.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The high approach is not for territory, but always a special approach due to a particular scenario of the whole board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One purpose of high approach is to attack. Refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#2LRby3iCq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, the 3rd game of the Kamakura jubango between Go Seigen and Minoru Kitani. White 12 is the high approach. The idea is to cut the black 1 (4-4) from black 11. A low approach is not appreciated as black 11 is quite near to black 1, white has no chance to settle down, so, white would rather take the high approach, which is easier to run to the center and more preferable for the potential fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game did not go as the Joseki, but the strategies of the two is too detailed to be explained here. Interested, please refer to Go's book on mid-game fighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possible purpose of high approach is to build the moyo. Refer to to &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#xYvNft8F&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://eidogo.com/#xYvNft8F&lt;/a&gt; , a Fujitsu Cup game between Norimoto Yoda and Nie Weiping.&#xA;Black 41 is the high approach. Nie trapped Norimoto Yoda on the right side and build a black &amp;quot;wall&amp;quot;, so he took the high approach to build up the moyo. If black take a normal (low) approach, white would happily counteract by 5-6 to limit the black moyo, or even step further to a pincer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This purpose is possible as, comparing to the low approach, black (4-4) is not easy to counteract by a pincer or kenuki (play at other places). For example, if black kenuki, white could attach on the other side of the (4-4), possibly another high approach, this double-high-approach is much more serious than a double-low-approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2821" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-12-18T20:51:23.680" LastActivityDate="2020-12-18T20:51:23.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19066" CreationDate="2014-09-23T13:15:42.473" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official mahjong rules do not allow for &quot;cross&quot; bets by players on each other, or by outside parties on or against players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this lady may have been playing by &quot;house&quot; rules in &quot;her&quot; games. But those rules do not apply to your table unless you all agree to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T13:15:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19071" CreationDate="2014-09-23T13:19:18.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;AA guns tend to reduce the value of &quot;strategic&quot; bombing. Hence you would do this more (and spend more researching heavy bombers) than in other versions of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many players that believe that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3643/in-axis-and-allies-can-heavy-bombers-be-tamed&quot;&gt;heavy bombers&lt;/a&gt; unbalance the game, and one should not be allowed to research them. If they are disallowed, AA guns would be less necessary, and can be eliminated from the game to simplify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The construction of factories is most important for Japan and Britain, who start with only one (everyone else starts with two). Hence, it makes these two countries harder to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some problems with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3658/should-we-eliminate-or-modify-the-factory-rule-in-axis-and-allies&quot;&gt;Factory Rule&lt;/a&gt;. The first is that one costs a &quot;flat&quot; 15 IPCs to build. But that doesn't reflect the fact that factories are easier to build in some places than others (e.g. in &quot;real life,&quot; it's almost impossible to build factory in Sinkiang). Second, most countries would not &quot;export&quot; aerospace technology, meaning that realistically, it would be possible only to produce infantry, but not airplanes in a foreign factory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T19:44:31.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19078" CreationDate="2014-09-23T18:15:52.837" Score="4" ViewCount="24880" Body="&lt;p&gt;What scale are the models in Warhammer Fantasy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched for the answer to this and found many different values. Can someone please provide me with the correct scale in the &quot;xmm&quot; and &quot;x/xx&quot; format. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it would be something like &quot;28mm&quot; and &quot;1/35&quot; scale. These are just examples and some of the numbers i have seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2024-02-01T08:04:26.697" Title="What scale are Warhammer Fantasy models?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19077" CreationDate="2014-09-23T20:00:10.067" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gaming miniatures are usually described as Xmm rather than 'X/Y(th)' as is used in scale modelling.  The distance is from the base to the eyes on a normal human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Current new models coming out for Wahammer Fantasy are 32mm Heroic scale.  GW has been pushing up the scale of the game in recent years, ostensibly so that more detail can be fit onto plastic models.  Older models, many of which are still the current sculpt that's for sale, are 28mm heroic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Heroic' just means that certain features, like heads and weapons, are not to scale with the body.  This makes them look better and easier to recognize when viewed from comparatively far away on a gaming table.  It does however make it hard to use parts from true-scale models, since a model that is the same height will look like it has a tiny head and twig for a weapon next to gaming models.  If you do a straight conversion based on the model's height you will come out with approx. 1/56th for a comparable true scale model, but in reality that will look very silly and most people use more like 1/35th when incorporating true scale parts into a gaming army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T20:00:10.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19030" CreationDate="2014-09-23T21:39:30.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not specific to KTK, but my rule of thumb for limited environments has been to count non-zero cost mana sources as half lands, with a limit of about 1/3 my land count total reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance in your example I would count 1 of those banners as a land. So 16 lands, 17 creatures and 5 other spells plus the two banners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note as a word of caution that I am used to efficient green methods or 2 CC artifacts that act as land, so this rule of thumb may not be applicable for 3 CC artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I count like this is because there are two stages of mana. Your first couple of turns where you are using mana to start the game, and later when you have enough mana to spend mana to get more. You only count as half because the non-zero mana sources are only valuable in the second portion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally I mention non-zero mana sources instead of lands due to my favorite form of limited being a powered cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2014-09-23T21:39:30.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19030" CreationDate="2014-09-24T00:07:17.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;18 lands, including all the on-colour heal lands you can get and all the tri-lands in at least 2 of your wedge's colours. Then add banners according to deck speed and colour balance.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing to consider with trading Banners for lands, as with any colour fixing rock is &quot;what happens if you don't hit the mana on time&quot;. Between morph and delve, Khans is a format where &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%20[%22Khans%20of%20Tarkir%22]&amp;amp;rarity=%20![R]%20![M]&amp;amp;text=%20![morph]%20![delve]&amp;amp;cmc=%20%3E[3]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;less than 1/3 of the common/uncommon cards in the set require more than 3 mana to cast&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you miss your third land drop, you are going to be immediately behind and your opponent can start capitalising on that. And if when you finally draw your 3rd land, your first play is a banner, that's one more turn that you haven't done anything to slow your opponent's pressure or increase yours. If that banner had been a land instead, it would have got you to three sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, there's another threshold at 5, where creatures can unmorph that can actually just kill other morph creatures rather than trade. Again, once your opponent gets there first, you can't profitably send your morph creatures in any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;if I stick on 2, I can't play the banner, and I'm probably going to lose&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. So you want to avoid that. Your risk appetite may vary, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/feature-article-why-you-should-be-sideboarding-lands/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here are the stats.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sealed is of course one of the more bomb focused formats, but one of the wonderful things about bombs is that they can wait a few turns till you find your splash, &lt;em&gt;as long as your opponent can't kill you in the meantime&lt;/em&gt;. Which is exactly what will happen if they're hitting you for multiple turns because they were on curve and you weren't. They'll also hit &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; bomb faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of the Khans cards are mono-colour, and the common multicolours all have morph. You're rarely going to &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; 3 colours until turn 5 or 6, and even then, you could well have stuff to do if you've built your pool to focus on 2 colours with a 3rd splashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, remember that to cast a multicolour card you still need the &lt;em&gt;mana&lt;/em&gt;. Having 4 mana in three colours does not help you cast a Zurgo, because he costs 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice, from listening to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lrcast.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Limited Resources podcast&lt;/a&gt;, is &lt;strong&gt;18 lands and 0-2 banners&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;depending on your fixing requirements and your deck speed&lt;/em&gt;. The more you can focus on 2 colours, the less you need the banners. The more controlling your deck is, the more it can afford the tempo loss of playing the banner out. But you're playing the banners as a patch to handle a lack of colour fixing with an option to cycle, not as lands. You might be able to go 17/2, using the ramp and cycling from the banners to mitigate any missed drops, but 17/1 is going to hurt more than it helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can play a mostly black-white warriors splashing red for Zurgo, out go those banners. If it's blue-black-green delve that Scouts for key tri-colour cards and needs to hold the ground then pour in the mana into Villainous Wealth, in they go. Remember, if you're mana flooded, you always can crack the banner on your opponent's end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the better your land fixing is, the less you need the banners. Also remember that an off-colour tri-land that covers 2 of your colours (e.g. Abzan triland in a Mardu deck), counts as a heal land for the purposes of fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Addendum:&lt;/strong&gt; Based on post-pre-release discussion and comment, my initial opinion would seem to be borne out. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://youtu.be/64JFfHtFq88&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;LRR team suggest&lt;/a&gt; that &quot;You have much better things to do on turn 3 than cast a banner&quot;, and you'd normally do it only to help in a situation where you need more than fixing than your dual/tri-lands can be provide. This is always a bit of a judgement call, even if you can work out the probabilities, the consequences will depend on your deck and your opponents (e.g. you'll get more punished for colour screw by an aggressive opponent, but your deck may be able to stabilise better without the banner). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T10:46:32.433" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T10:46:32.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T01:12:24.733" Score="4" ViewCount="2526" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgtop8.com/event?e=8191&amp;amp;d=247190&amp;amp;f=LE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Death and Taxes deck&lt;/a&gt;, for example, has 1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cavern%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cavern of Souls&lt;/a&gt;, 1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Horizon%20Canopy&quot;&gt;Horizon Canopy&lt;/a&gt;, and 1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Den&quot;&gt;Ancient Den&lt;/a&gt;. Since it's a 60 card deck the odds of drawing any one of them is 1/60. ie. quite slim. So why do they include cards they likely won't be drawing? Why not run 4x of each card? Gives you less versatility, I suppose, but what good is versatility if you don't draw the cards you need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T18:59:52.730" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T18:59:52.730" Title="Why do some decks run only one of a card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-09-25T01:28:23.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19081" CreationDate="2014-09-24T01:34:23.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lands that that deck only has one of are generally nice to have if you can get it, but not clearly better than the alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck is entirely white, so Cavern of Souls' second ability is only useful to generate white mana, and that mana can only be used to cast creature spells of a predetermined type (probably Human, given the makeup of the deck). It can be nice to be able to cast uncounterable creatures, but the drawbacks mean that you don't want to have too many, and you probably don't need to cast two uncounterable creatures on the same turn in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the deck color makes Horizon Canopy's mana generating ability significantly worse. It can be very nice to have a difficult-to-counter instant speed draw for one mana, but you can only use it once per land, so it's not worth having too many of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this deck Ancient Den is basically a Plains. However, if you side in Enlightened Tutor, you can tutor for it. It barely hurts the deck, and it's not worth using a slot in the sideboard for it, but non-basic lands are more susceptible to land destruction, so you don't want too many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other cards that the deck only has one of are the equipments, but that makes sense because Stoneforge Mystic can tutor for them and put them into play from your hand, so all you need is one somewhere in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also worth noting that this is a control deck; it's designed to slow down the game. Longer games make it more likely that you'll get any particular card eventually, and it's not as important to get some cards quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T02:07:04.833" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T02:07:04.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19081" CreationDate="2014-09-24T06:10:29.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, a recommended article about singletons in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/15002-Sullivan-Library-One.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/misc/15002-Sullivan-Library-One.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this specific case, the cards you mention are all cards such that the deck never desperately needs to draw them; the player might think &quot;I want a land that taps for white mana&quot; but probably not &quot;I want Ancient Den.&quot; They may, however, think &quot;I sure wish I could get a land with this Enlightened Tutor.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, while playing multiples of a card increases the chance you draw one, it also increases the chance that you draw &lt;em&gt;more than one&lt;/em&gt;, which can be bad. All three of these lands have drawbacks such that you may not want to draw a bunch of them. The Horizon Canopy makes you lose life when you tap it for mana, and cycling it takes time. Having the one might be a hedge against mana screw or mana flood but drawing them all at once can either eat a game-losing amount of your life total or force you to waste time cycling them. Similarly, you may not want all your lands to be artifacts depending on what you're up against, and Cavern of Souls can only be set to a single creature type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the singletons are all tutorable (with Enlightened Tutor and possibly Stoneforge Mystic), so the builder will be able to tutor for &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; topdeck them. The only exception is the Sunlance which probably isn't so much &quot;Sunlance #1&quot; as &quot;kill spell #5&quot; (in cases where Sunlance is useful, Swords to Plowshares is probably also useful).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T06:10:29.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-24T06:30:02.243" Score="0" ViewCount="8148" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a pokemon card says 20x the number of energy do you do 20 damage if there is no energy on a pokemon or would it be zero? Mewtwo for example, is it 20 plus the number of energies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8582" LastActivityDate="2021-12-13T17:00:42.803" Title="Pokemon damage multiplied" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18336" CreationDate="2014-09-24T09:37:08.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you may not trade 4:1 with the bank during the special building phase. As per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/settlers_5-6_rv_rules_100107.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the 5-6 player rule book&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also note that players are not allowed to do any trading with other&#xA;  players—nor are they allowed to use &lt;strong&gt;Maritime Trade&lt;/strong&gt;—during this phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4:1 trade is defined under Maritime Trade in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/soc_rv_rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;base game rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) Maritime Trade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can also trade without the other players! &#xA;  During your turn, you can always trade at 4:1 by putting &#xA;  4 identical Resource Cards back in their stack and taking any&#xA;  1 Resource Card of your choice for it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have a settlement or city on a harbor, you can trade&#xA;  with the bank more favorably: at either a 3:1 ratio or in special&#xA;  harbors (trading the resource type shown) at 2:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;strong&gt;no trading with other players&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;no maritime trade&lt;/strong&gt; means that &lt;strong&gt;no trading of any kind can take place&lt;/strong&gt; during the special building phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2684" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T09:37:08.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="41889" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:23:20.457" Score="17" ViewCount="2011" Body="&lt;p&gt;You control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steel%20Golem&quot;&gt;Steel Golem&lt;/a&gt;, which says &amp;quot;you can't cast creature spells&amp;quot;. Can you pay the Bestow cost on, say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hopeful%20Eidolon&quot;&gt;Hopeful Eidolon&lt;/a&gt;, and cast it as an aura enchanting the Steel Golem?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reading of the rules is that you can't: Paying the bestow cost doesn't make the card into a (non-creature) Aura until after it's on the stack, and Steel Golem's restriction doesn't let you put a creature spell on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general the ordering of steps in casting a spell is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a spell to play and place it on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose modes and targets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose which costs to pay and pay them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When applied to a Bestow spell, these become:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the bestow creature on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(No modes or targets to choose yet, since it's a creature spell).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose to pay the bestow cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell stops being a creature and becomes an Aura (702.102a).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell's controller chooses a target (702.102b).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if &amp;quot;you can't cast creature spells&amp;quot;, then you can't complete step 1, since your Hopeful Eidolon is still a creature. And (per 601.2) &amp;quot;If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The converse situation seems to arise with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aurelia%27s%20Fury&quot;&gt;Aurelia&amp;#39;s Fury&lt;/a&gt;, where a Bestow card is playable because it's not a non-creature card until after the Bestow cost is payed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this sound correct or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8584" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:34:48.540" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:34:48.540" Title="Can you cast a creature with Bestow while you control a Steel Golem?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19086" CreationDate="2014-09-24T12:58:33.250" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.5. A player can’t begin to cast a spell that’s prohibited from being cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are exactly right&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: not correct anymore&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T08:13:26.827" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T08:13:26.827" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19084" CreationDate="2014-09-24T14:00:55.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you talk about this Mewtwo : &lt;a href=&quot;http://pokeplayer.com/cardex/next_destinies/98-mewtwo-ex&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pokeplayer.com/cardex/next_destinies/98-mewtwo-ex&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Mewtwo has 2 energies and the Defending Pokémon has 0 energies, that would do 20 × 2 = 40 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for a weird reason you were able to use X Ball without having any energy attached, and 0 energies on the Defending Pokémon, that would do 20 × 0 = 0 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastEditorUserId="8121" LastEditDate="2014-09-24T14:06:11.590" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T14:06:11.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18863" CreationDate="2014-09-24T14:23:34.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3 legendary birds have been made by ILKCMP :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ilkcmp.deviantart.com/art/GB-Promo-3-Articuno-285045912&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ilkcmp.deviantart.com/art/GB-Promo-3-Articuno-285045912&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ilkcmp.deviantart.com/art/GB-Promo-10-Zapdos-280707984&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ilkcmp.deviantart.com/art/GB-Promo-10-Zapdos-280707984&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ilkcmp.deviantart.com/art/GB-Promo-2-Moltres-285045429&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ilkcmp.deviantart.com/art/GB-Promo-2-Moltres-285045429&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8121" LastActivityDate="2014-09-24T14:23:34.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19093" CreationDate="2014-09-25T12:09:55.823" Score="6" ViewCount="1441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say, I only have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ersatz%20Gnomes&quot;&gt;Ersatz Gnomes&lt;/a&gt; (1/1 Artifact Creature) with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pledge%20of%20Loyalty&quot;&gt;Pledge of Loyalty&lt;/a&gt; on it. Since the Pledge is my only colored permanent, it will grant the Gnomes protection from white. If I now use the Gnomes' ability to make the Pledge colorless, I won't have any colored permanents on the battlefield and the Gnomes won't have protection any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can now cast a second Pledge of Loyalty on the Gnomes, giving it protection from white again. Now, what happens at the end of the turn, when the Gnomes' effect ends? Are one or both Pledges moved to the graveyard, since they enchant a creature with protection from white? Or do they both remain on the battlefield, since their effect does not remove Pledge of Loyalty? (The last one seems unlikely because a name on a card refers only to the card itself and not to another card with the same name.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T16:20:26.010" Title="What happens if I have two Pledges of Loyalty attached to a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19091" CreationDate="2014-09-25T12:19:02.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;See Kevin's answer: the second Pledge causes the first to also grant protection from white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If somehow both Pledges are colorless, and then both stop being colorless at end of turn, then my original answer applies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both Pledges will go to the graveyard, for exactly the reason you state. As soon as the Gnome's effect ends, state-based effects are checked and both auras are enchanting an illegal permanent. The Gnomes have two &quot;instances&quot; of protection from white, each of which doesn't remove one copy of Pledge of Loyalty, but not the other. Since all state-based effects are checked at once, both Pledges go to the graveyard simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8584" LastEditorUserId="8584" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T14:09:47.253" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T14:09:47.253" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19091" CreationDate="2014-09-25T13:01:42.650" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once the second Pledge enters the battlefield, the first one again starts granting protection from white to the Gnomes, which causes the second aura to fall off. This happens as a state-based action just after the second Pledge resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T13:01:42.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19096" CreationDate="2014-09-25T13:51:51.167" Score="2" ViewCount="17701" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if two of my creatures, have triggered abilities, which trigger on attack, in what order it resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example I have on board &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prognostic%20Sphinx&quot;&gt;Prognostic Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Narset%2C%20Enlightened%20Master&quot;&gt;Narset, Enlightened Master&lt;/a&gt;, and attack with both. Can I scry first put something on the bottom of my library and then exile 3 cards from top of my library, or it resolves at the same time so I scry 3 cards and same 3 cards + 1 additional are exiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8188" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:34:02.140" Title="Order of multiple triggered abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-09-25T15:50:55.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19091" CreationDate="2014-09-25T14:14:10.667" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's walk through this. Our starting state is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gnome&lt;/strong&gt; is enchanted by &lt;strong&gt;Colorless Pledge&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following events occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast a second Pledge, targeting Gnome&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pledge resolves and attaches to Gnome&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The state of the board is now:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gnome&lt;/strong&gt; is enchanted by &lt;strong&gt;Colorless Pledge&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;White Pledge&lt;/strong&gt;. Gnome has Protection from White (except Colorless Pledge) and Protection from White (except White Pledge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the active player would receive priority, and so state based actions are checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All White auras except for Colorless Pledge are moved to the graveyard. White Pledge is moved to the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All White auras except for White Pledge are moved to the graveyard. Colorless Pledge is unaffected.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your final board state is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gnome&lt;/strong&gt; is enchanted by a &lt;strong&gt;Colorless Pledge&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the turn, the Colorless Pledge becomes White again, but remains attaches because an exception was specifically made for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T16:20:26.010" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T16:20:26.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19094" CreationDate="2014-09-25T14:23:09.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the general rule: &lt;strong&gt;when the same event triggers multiple triggered abilities, the controllers of the abilities decide what order to place them on the stack, in APNAP (active player first, then non-active player) order&lt;/strong&gt; (rule 603.3b).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, you get to choose. If you put the Sphinx's ability on the stack first, then Narset's resolves first, so you exile the top four cards, then scry the next three. If you put Narset's ability on the stack first, you scry 3 first (which will set up better cards for Narset), and then exile. In most situations you would want to put Narset's ability on the stack first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that what you describe as resolving &amp;quot;at the same time&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;never happens&lt;/em&gt; in Magic. Spells and abilities are always on the stack in some order, and they always resolve in that order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To extend the example, if your opponent controlled a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Reckoning&quot;&gt;Blood Reckoning&lt;/a&gt;, no matter what order you placed your two triggered abilities on the stack, your opponent (the non-active player) would place two triggered abilities from the enchantment (one for each attacking creature) on top of them, and they would always resolve before your abilities. If you had a life total of two when you attacked, even if you knew that you would be able to cast a life gain spell for free off of the cards Narset exiled, you would still lose life from Blood Reckoning -- and lose the game -- before Narset's ability resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8584" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:34:02.140" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:34:02.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2014-09-25T20:42:55.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I think I've found another solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;first, when it's your turn, play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alchemist%27s%20Refuge&quot;&gt;Alchemist&amp;#39;s Refuge&lt;/a&gt;, and then when it's your opponent's turn, you activate it, and flash in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genesis%20hydra&quot;&gt;Genesis hydra&lt;/a&gt; for at least 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's your opponent's turn, your trigger goes onto the stack last, and resolves first.Then,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;genesis hydra would have to find a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=notion%20thief&quot;&gt;notion thief&lt;/a&gt;, and it will put that directly onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, standstill gets sacrificed, and &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; draw the 3 cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastEditorUserId="3538" LastEditDate="2014-09-25T23:14:08.963" LastActivityDate="2014-09-25T23:14:08.963" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19142" CreationDate="2014-09-25T23:39:04.847" Score="0" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;The giant slayers in the dwarf says they can bring runic weapon worth up to 25 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of pride for the dwarfs says each rune item must be unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does each giant slayer in my unit have to carry a unique runic weapon? That seems very annoying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T07:30:31.647" Title="Dwarf giant slayers and runic weapons" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19099" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-26T04:15:43.673" Score="0" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move Adrenalash says add 50 damage on next turn. Does that mean every other turn or every next turn while he's active? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8582" LastActivityDate="2017-08-03T23:30:38.993" Title="Ursaring Adrenalash clarification" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-26T07:20:48.290" Score="1" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to organize a game playing session for  140 people in the same room. I could just split them up into lots of small groups and organize a tournament. But then I started to wonder, are there any massively multiplayer non-online games? My restriction is that any material needed will have to be printed out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6874" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:03:00.267" Title="Game for 140 people" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-09-27T04:28:56.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19098" CreationDate="2014-09-26T12:41:17.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the Dwarf rule-book, but I thought that Giant Slayers(and Demon Slayers) were champions who could be attached to a unit of Troll Slayers. This means that as champions, they will have to follow the Rule of Pride and all have unique runic weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the idea is you have a unit of troll slayers to soak arrows/give rank bonus and then add in 2-3 Giant slayers as champions to add more damage to the front rank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T12:41:17.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19101" CreationDate="2014-09-26T13:13:47.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only massive group game I can think of is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38159/ultimate-werewolf-ultimate-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ultimate Werewolf&lt;/a&gt;, which plays up to 68 players. With that amount of people, you'll want at least two moderators each. You can split your 140-person party into two large groups with a copy of the game each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T13:13:47.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19099" CreationDate="2014-09-26T14:32:14.797" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adrenalash   --&gt; 50 damage&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During your next turn, each of this Pokemon's attacks does 50 more damage (before applying Weakness and Resistance)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it means exactly what is written. Every time you use this move, your next turn has an additional +50 boost for &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; move. The boost will continue every next turn as long as you keep using Adrenalash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, here's damage output for two scenarios (Ursaring has another attack for 80 called Strength):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 1&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Adrenalash -&gt; 50, Adrenalash -&gt; 100, Adrenalash -&gt; 100 ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 2&lt;/strong&gt; Adrenalash -&gt; 50, Strength -&gt; 130, Strength -&gt; 80, Adrenalash -&gt; 50, Adrenalash -&gt; 100 ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2nd turn receives boost from first turn; for 3rd turn, and you no longer have adrenalash dmg boost because you used strength on previous turn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whether it is active every few turns, or every turn, is based directly on when and how you use Adrenalash. If you want to keep the boost active at all times, just keep using that move. If you stop using it, you will have to set up again with one turn of 50 dmg Adrenalash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8499" LastEditorUserId="8499" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T16:26:20.133" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T16:26:20.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19110" CreationDate="2014-09-26T14:55:55.537" Score="1" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I pre-empt at say, the three level, I am doing so with a &quot;lopsided&quot; hand that has relatively few points and is long in one suit (and short in two or three others). Under the circumstances, if the remaining high card points and &quot;lengths&quot; are distributed evenly between my partner and two opponents, I expect that my opponents will be able to make ten tricks in their longest suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pre-empt with a minor suit, there are two chances out of three that my opponents' &quot;longest&quot; suit will be a major, for which ten tricks represents game. If I pre-empt with a major, the chances are only one out of three that my opponents have a major suit game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my partner has the three to four defensive tricks needed to defeat a ten-trick contract, I'll (probably) make my bid. If partner has &quot;no defense,&quot; the opponents may make a slam. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I don't mind going down one trick, or even two doubled, (except when vulnerable versus not), if my opponents' ten tricks represent game most of the time. But I do, if those ten tricks represent game only a minority of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any systems or experts that say that you need &quot;more&quot; (either tricks or points) to preempt with a major than a minor suit, because you need to go down &quot;less?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T09:36:15.157" Title="Do you need more to &quot;pre-empt&quot; with a major, than a minor suit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18158" CreationDate="2014-09-26T15:25:02.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's basically &quot;out of bounds&quot; to criticize anyone in public at bridge. This applies particularly to your opponents. Nor would anyone reasonably want to do so (other than for ego purposes) because it helps the opponents play better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any &lt;em&gt;criticism&lt;/em&gt; is best reserved for &quot;in private.&quot; A partner has the right to express &quot;reservations&quot; about your play (or vice-versa) when the two of you are alone. That helps the two of you play better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one situation where you need to &quot;call out&quot; your opponents, that is not &quot;criticism.&quot; If you honestly believe that they are improperly &quot;signaling&quot; each other with voice intonations, body language, etc., or otherwise cheating, the person to bring it up with is the tournament director (the host in an informal &quot;home&quot; game), and let the &quot;authority&quot; warn or discipline the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As about what to do about a partner that criticizes people in public, give partner one or two warnings (in private), and then speak with the tournament director if this doesn't work. Basically you want to stop, or disassociate yourself from this behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T15:34:42.753" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T15:34:42.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19053" CreationDate="2014-09-26T18:01:52.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, each action taking a click must resolve before another can be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is answered on page 9 of the official ANR FAQ:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ_Printer_Friendly.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ_Printer_Friendly.pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3056" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:01:52.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19101" CreationDate="2014-09-26T18:03:00.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One game that could accommodate that number of players (provided you were willing to break the individuals up into multiple teams would be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/12926/wits-wagers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wits and Wagers&lt;/a&gt; style trivia game). If you broke into 10 person teams, you would have 14 teams. Wits and Wagers is a trivia game where the answers are all numeric (or dates). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I believe makes Wits and Wagers work for this setting is the fact that the questions aren’t necessarily something you would expect people to know (ex. &lt;em&gt;How many stairs in the Empire State Building?&lt;/em&gt;). As such, it is easier for a team to throw out different answers and try to find the one that the team agrees sounds like it might be correct. You can then compare the answers from all teams and determine a winner. The goal of each question is to get the closest without going over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to use the Wits and Wagers questions, my recommendation would be to ignore the betting portion of the game where all the answers are lined up in numerical order and players place up to two bets on the answers that they think are correct (with players allowed to bet on answers besides their own). I think if you tried to include the betting portion, it would really slow down the game to a crawl and you’d struggle to get through multiple rounds. Instead, I would run it simply as a game where the first team to some number of points (5? 10? Really depends how long you want this to go on).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the set of Wits and Wagers games, the one that might work best as is in this setting is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/66588/wits-wagers-family&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wits and Wagers Family&lt;/a&gt;. I've not actually played this version however, but it sounds like it could work if you wanted to give teams the option on betting on others guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:03:00.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19106" CreationDate="2014-09-26T18:13:33.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your statistical analysis is completely wrong:&#xA; As a preempter, your shortness in unbid major(s) increases the likelihood of opponents having an eight-card major fit. This fit doesn't have to be their longest suit, and the hand will often play for more tricks if it isn't. As a matter of systemic agreement the opponents will often choose to play in an eight-card major fit regardless of other hand features, unless a running side suit with stoppers has been identified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, no-one suggests that you need more to pre-empt in a major than in a minor (at the three level). That 3-level pre-empts in a major may typically be made on stronger hands than in a minor is because the top=end of minor preempts tend to open a Gambling 3NT instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:13:33.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19106" CreationDate="2014-09-26T18:14:51.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, not really. When you preempt, you're trying to make it more difficult for your opponents to make a decision. Opponents have game in a suit less frequently when your suit is a major instead of a minor, but eg when you bid 3S, one of the opponents is going to have to make an immediate decision about the viability of 3NT (what do you do in second seat holding a 14-count with Axx in spades?). Major-suit preempts take away more bidding room, so even as opponents will have fewer games, they'll have a harder time diagnosing the fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:14:51.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19112" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19113" CreationDate="2014-09-26T18:21:54.090" Score="7" ViewCount="5023" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/148228/splendor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Splendor&lt;/a&gt; is a great game, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spacecowboys.fr/img/games/splendor/details/rules/Rules_Splendor_US.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; were written sub-optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of their turn, each player checks the noble tiles in order to determine if they’re receiving a visit from one of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you check the nobles currently &quot;visiting&quot; another player, or is a noble permanently yours once he's visited you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T18:27:29.427" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:40:02.770" Title="Is a noble permanently yours once he's visited you in Splendor?" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19112" CreationDate="2014-09-26T18:40:02.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two people from &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.asmodee.com/ressources/jeux_versions/splendor.php&quot;&gt;Splendor&lt;/a&gt;-distributor Asmodee have confirmed&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/15928679#15928679&quot;&gt;[1]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/15939999#15939999&quot;&gt;[2]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; that you retain any noble that has visited you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T18:40:02.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-09-26T20:58:38.760" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple points of advice here - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) One easy way to teach the farm mechanic is to run through a sample game of perhaps 5 turns.  Make sure to drop a farmer or two during this sample and at the end go through the scoring process.  This will get you to the &quot;aha&quot; moment that people have about farmers much more quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) the game can certainly work without farmers, although it makes the game less interesting for veterans.  If you are not going to use farmers, I would remove two meeples from each player's supply, since you will no longer be committing meeples to the board permanently.  This will maintain some of the scarcity decisions that have to be made regarding occupying card features.  One of the more interesting tradeoffs in the game is deciding how many farmers to commit to the fields at the cost of being able to place more often into short term gains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8601" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T20:58:38.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19115" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19119" CreationDate="2014-09-26T21:57:33.503" Score="2" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;The vampire counts skeletons can carry spears for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would be the benefit for not carrying spears?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just seems weird to me. I don't see any reason to not carry them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T23:22:09.293" Title="Benefits of not equipping skeletons with spears?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19117" CreationDate="2014-09-26T22:06:39.987" Score="1" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a necromancer mounts a corpse cart do you have to pay the 90 points to mount the cart and pay the price of the corpse cart? Equaling 180 points to mount a corpse cart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T22:47:10.687" Title="Necromancer mounting corpse cart pricing?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19116" CreationDate="2014-09-26T22:58:45.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The points listed in the Necromancer entry shows how much buying him a Corpse Cart mount costs (which is why it is 90 points, the cost of a Corpse Cart). If you pay for a character to have a mount the character gets the mount, there is no additional mounting fee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T22:47:10.687" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T22:47:10.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19115" CreationDate="2014-09-26T23:05:50.023" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A model with Hand Weapon and Shield can use the 'Parry' special rule to get a ward save.  A model with a spear cannot.  Since skeletons are weak and have poor weapon skill anyway, it may be beneficial to have better survivability rather than a few more attacks that are unlikely to hurt anything, depending on what role you see the unit filling in your army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T23:05:50.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19115" CreationDate="2014-09-26T23:05:58.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By default the skeletons come armed with light armour, a hand weapon, and a shield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of hand weapon and shield gives you an additional 6+ Parry Save (8th Ed rulebook, pg 88), which you may make against close combat attacks. They have a 5+ Armour Save and 6+ Ward save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you give them spears they lose this extra Parry Save, instead gaining Fight in Extra Rank. They have just the 5+ Armour Save.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a unit with hand weapons and shields will live longer in close combat, which is useful if they are only expected to tie up enemies or as a bodyguard unit for a necromancer. While a unit with spears and sheilds will have up to twice as many attacks but weaker saves, so they will die faster but might do more damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-09-26T23:22:09.293" LastActivityDate="2014-09-26T23:22:09.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-27T16:56:57.773" Score="-2" ViewCount="929" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is the exact release date for Babel? It seems to be some time in November, but It was due to come out in Feb, so why did it drag on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what happened to Armada, which was tested by some players two years ago: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/851200/7-wonders-armada-playtest-summary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/851200/7-wonders-armada-playtest-summary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8439" LastEditorUserId="2074" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T18:50:49.363" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T18:50:49.363" Title="7 wonders Babel and Armada" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-babel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19149" CreationDate="2014-09-27T17:22:40.020" Score="8" ViewCount="8679" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of magic cards.  For constructed play they are mostly worthless.  I would like to pack these up into re-packs that are like booster packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not sure what cards go into a booster pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: I am &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; asking about Rareity distribution.  I know that each pack has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Token/Advertisement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Foil/Land&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rare/Mythic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 (ish) Uncommons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rest are Commons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking how random the other types on the cards are.  &lt;strong&gt;Meaning is it possible to open a booster that is all Red?&lt;/strong&gt;  or all Creatures?  Or all Sorcery?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or is there a guarantee that there will be a certain number of each color, creatures, instants, sorceries, etc.?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:00:41.093" Title="Statistics on a booster pack (to make my own re-packs)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19121" CreationDate="2014-09-27T19:29:05.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/7_Wonders#Extensions_.C3.A0_venir&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 Wonders article in the French Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Armada&lt;/em&gt; has no release date, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; is supposed to be released in the first half of October 2014.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In his private blog, Antoine Bauza (the author of &lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt;) published an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antoinebauza.fr/?p=3494&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;image of the &lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; box&lt;/a&gt;, with the caption&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;OCTOBER 2014 (Essen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This refers to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;SPIEL&lt;/em&gt; tradefair&lt;/a&gt;, which takes place from 2014-10-16 to 2014-10-19 in Essen, Germany. So it’s likely that the extension will be released then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T19:29:05.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19126" CreationDate="2014-09-27T20:04:58.233" Score="3" ViewCount="2874" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sarkhan%2C%20the%20Dragonspeaker&quot;&gt;Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker&lt;/a&gt; has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[+1]: Until end of turn, Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker becomes a legendary 4/4 red Dragon creature with flying, indestructible, and haste. (He doesn't lose loyalty while he's not a planeswalker.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temur%20Ascendancy&quot;&gt;Temur Ascendancy&lt;/a&gt; in play when I trigger this ability, do I get to draw a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature with power 4 or greater enters the battlefield under your control, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8528" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T01:03:49.947" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T01:03:49.947" Title="Does Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker's first ability trigger &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2014-09-30T00:29:31.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19125" CreationDate="2014-09-27T20:36:54.880" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Sarkhan's ability does not trigger enters-the-battlefield abilities because he is already on the battlefield. He changes type and gains abilities but he is still the same object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An enters-the-battlefield trigger is what is called a zone-change trigger. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;Rule 603.6a&lt;/a&gt; describes these triggers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt; These are written, &quot;When [this object] enters the battlefield, ...&quot; or &quot;Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield, ...&quot; Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that match the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sarkhan's ability changes his &lt;strong&gt;characteristics&lt;/strong&gt;. Those are defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot;&gt;rule 109.3&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object's characteristics are name, mana cost, &lt;strong&gt;color&lt;/strong&gt;, color indicator, &lt;strong&gt;card type&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;subtype&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;supertype&lt;/strong&gt;, rules text, &lt;strong&gt;abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;power&lt;/strong&gt;, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects can have some or all of these characteristics. Any other information about an object isn't a characteristic. For example, characteristics don't include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell's target, an object's owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highlighted characteristics cover everything that Sarkhan's ability sets. More specifically, the ability creates a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot;&gt;continuous effect&lt;/a&gt; that modifies those characteristics. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot;&gt;Rule 110.3&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A nontoken permanent's characteristics are the same as those printed on its card, as modified by any continuous effects. See rule 613, &quot;Interaction of Continuous Effects.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Sarkhan is still the same permanent, but once the ability resolves there is a new continuous effect that is modifying its characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-27T21:23:05.137" LastActivityDate="2014-09-27T21:23:05.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11530" CreationDate="2014-09-28T01:08:24.960" Score="-2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://town-of-salem.wikia.com/wiki/Roles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Town of Salem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is a Kickstarter project which is a more diversified and polished version of the popular &amp;quot;party games&amp;quot; such as Mafia and Werewolf. (in fact, the villain faction is still named Mafia). There are about 30 roles, and whilst the game does not run on a point-based system, it has extensive roles that can enable &amp;quot;dead&amp;quot; players to participate, which &lt;em&gt;can help&lt;/em&gt; make this competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://town-of-salem.wikia.com/wiki/Medium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Medium&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can chat with dead players. The catch is that the names of such dead players (&amp;quot;out-of-play&amp;quot;) are anonymous to Medium. In this sense, it provides a greater flexibility in player contribution overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To convert this idea into a point-system&lt;/em&gt;, you could have a &amp;quot;log&amp;quot; system in which players can jot down/check off players' names as werewolves v.s. &amp;quot;town members&amp;quot; and so forth. In result, players are motivated to keep deducing and cooperating until the game is declared over (as opposed to sitting back once they are out of play.)  Whoever gets it correct can earn points in their team's favour; you may choose to assign penalty to &amp;quot;wrong guesses&amp;quot; to discourage 50/50 shots. The point-tally process can be simplified as a simple Boolean (assuming your game has two opposing teams/factions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. Just wanted to breathe a fresh point of view into traditional mechanics. I apologize if the suggestion came off as abrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T03:20:33.960" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19141" CreationDate="2014-09-28T04:16:36.623" Score="0" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the invocation of nehek spell, vampire counts, heal a lone character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spell says unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T06:44:34.523" Title="Can invocation of nehek heal a lone character?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19139" CreationDate="2014-09-28T04:21:08.123" Score="1" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does invocation of nehek affect swarms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the bat swarm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast nehek on a bat swarm that has 4 bases/models with full wounds and nehek replenishes 3 wounds, what happens? Does it create a new base/model with 3 wounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the unit was not a swarm but had multiple wounds for each base, how would that work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T06:18:35.420" Title="Invocation of nehek and swarms?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19138" CreationDate="2014-09-28T04:24:59.987" Score="0" ViewCount="322" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my unit is in the frontal charging cone of an enemy unit and I already have a friendly unit in front of that unit and taking up all the front base space, can I charge the enemy unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I was 75% in frontal cone and 25% in flanking cone? Could I charge the flank instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are my options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T06:02:04.147" Title="Charging a unit with no space?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19136" CreationDate="2014-09-28T04:27:32.940" Score="4" ViewCount="25349" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few cards that allow you to exile cards and then cast them later (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Narset%2C%20Enlightened%20Master&quot;&gt;Narset, Enlightened Master&lt;/a&gt; for example). After a spell cast this way resolves, does it go back into exile, or does it resolve normally including being placed in its owner's graveyard? (assuming nothing else effects where it would go after being cast)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T07:26:58.583" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T16:02:46.787" Title="What happens to cards cast from exile?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19137" CreationDate="2014-09-28T04:29:32.550" Score="2" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I charge an enemy unit and it dies before the first close combat after the charge? Suppose they die from my magic phase. Do they get any additional movement or anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-09-28T05:17:52.360" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T05:31:54.307" Title="The charged unit dies before combat" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19134" CreationDate="2014-09-28T05:07:31.877" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens to a spell after it's been cast is not affected by where it was cast from. It's the usual rule about cards being by default &quot;reset&quot; whenever they move from a zone to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the spell itself (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPull%20from%20the%20Deep%5d&quot;&gt;Pull from the Deep&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=433010&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;White Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt;...) or another card (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRest%20in%20Peace%5d&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt;) says it doesn't go to the graveyard, that is where it will end up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-03-12T16:02:46.787" LastActivityDate="2019-03-12T16:02:46.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19135" CreationDate="2014-09-28T05:31:54.307" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they do not get any additional movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is the unit is not engaged in a combat, so it does nothing in the close combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume you are thiking of the Overrun rule? Where if you wipe out a unit in close combat on the turn you charge you get to move another 2D6&quot; forward afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Overrun (8th Edition Rulebook, pg 58) specify that a unit only gets an Overrun if &lt;em&gt;&quot;all it's enemies have been wiped out &lt;strong&gt;as a result of the combat&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. So if the opposing unit was wiped out before the close combat phase began, they would get no Overrun move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T05:31:54.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19133" CreationDate="2014-09-28T06:02:04.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the two units are charging at the same time, then the two units must attempt to charge in such a way that an equal number (or as close as possible) of models from each unit engage the enemy unit (8th Ed Rulebook, pg 23).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first unit is already engaged (an ongoing combat from a pervious turn) to the front and completely blocks it, and your charging unit is in the front arc, then the rules are not 100% clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Flank and Rear Charges (8th ED Rulebook pg 21) state that &lt;em&gt;&quot;a charging units position when the charge is declared determines whether it charges into the front, flank, or rear of an enemy unit&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Based on this, you must charge the side you are on, not the side you can reach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule for Multiple Charges On A Unit say that if &lt;em&gt;&quot;more units can complete the charge than can fit in base contact with the target&quot;&lt;/em&gt; then the charging player choosing which units get moved first, and any &lt;em&gt;&quot;units that cannot complete the charge against the target are counted as having made a failed charge&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. (8th ED Rulebook pg 23). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they must charge the front, which they cannot reach due to other units, I would say they will fail the charge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T06:02:04.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19132" CreationDate="2014-09-28T06:18:35.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Invocation of Nehek (Vampire Counts 8th Ed, pg 60) says that &lt;em&gt;&quot;Wounds gained are distributed as described in Ressurecting Fallen Warriors&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Ressurecting Fallen Warriors (Vampire Counts 8th Ed, pg 26) state that &lt;em&gt;&quot;A unit cannot be taken beyond it's starting size, though certain powers, spells and special rules may provide exceptions&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the unit will not go above it's starting size unless the unit or the caster has a special rule saying they may do so (Swarms do not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Ressurecting Fallen Warriors go on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;In the case of multiple Wound models, all models in the unit must be fully healed before another can be resurrected.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Invocation of Nehek does add that &lt;em&gt;&quot;models with the Vampiric, Ethereal or Large Target special rules can never regain more than 1 Wound per successful casting.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T06:18:35.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-28T06:42:49.067" Score="-1" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;Often one will want to play with less skilled players, who are there to be social. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make a game like Settlers a bit boring for them, as they're likely to lose and have to play the whole game out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any games that have good handicapping dynamics? I guess there are home cooked rules you can add to handicap the higher skills players (for example in Settlers - you must put your first settlements on the coast, or your total number dots must be less than 10), but for this question lets focus on games that have handicaps in the original rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T08:34:23.100" Title="Are there any games with handicaps/imbalancing?" Tags="|handicap|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-09-30T16:54:54.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19131" CreationDate="2014-09-28T06:44:34.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Forming Units (8th Edition Rulebook, pg 5), &lt;em&gt;&quot;A unit usually consists of several models that have banded together, but &lt;strong&gt;a single, powerful model such as a lone character&lt;/strong&gt;, a chariot or a Dragon, a war machine and its crew, and so on, &lt;strong&gt;are also considered to be a unit&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything is a unit, even a lone character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though bear in mind the rules for Invocation of Nehek. &lt;em&gt;&quot;Models with the Vampiric, Ethereal or Large Target special rules can never regain more than 1 Wound per successful casting.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (Vampire Counts 8th Ed, pg 60). So a lone Vampire for example will only gain a single wound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T06:44:34.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19098" CreationDate="2014-09-28T07:30:31.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the Rule of Pride no two weapons may have the same combination of runes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you do not need to give every Giant Slayer a rune weapon. You are not &lt;em&gt;forced&lt;/em&gt; to equip them all with an assortment of rune weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from the fact that spending up to 25 points on top of the 24 point Giant Slayers is a lot of points to sink into 1 Wound models. Also, any Slayer who takes a Rune weapon loses his Slayer Axes ability, which is quite handy to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T07:30:31.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19140" CreationDate="2014-09-28T08:34:23.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/126042/nations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nations&lt;/a&gt; is a board game that has a high ranking on BoardGameGeek (currently ranked 7.97 out of 10 and ranked as the 39th favorite board game) that has a handicap system built in. As part of the initial setup each player selects the difficulty level they wish to play by placing a player disk of their color on the desired level. This difficulty level determines how many resources of a single type get added to their individual resource pool as part of the Maintenance Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resources that can be added include: Food, Stone or Gold; which are used throughout the game to take various actions and pay for upkeep. Resources are in short supply so by modifying the number of resources added you can have a significant effect on the difficulty between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nations supports 4 different levels of difficulty ranging from Chieftain, Prince, King and Emperor. At the Chieftan level, you may add 4 resources of any one type at the start of each round; whereas Prince provides 3, King 2, and Emperor 1. It is recommended that new players start the game at Prince level. With the games lasting 8 rounds, this can be a difference of receiving up to 32 resources at Chieftan to a maximum of 8 resources at Emperor. I say &quot;up to&quot; and &quot;max&quot; because during the Maintenance Phase when you experience Growth (which is the stage at which you can add resources), you actually have a choice to add more resources or population. Population comes at a cost of increased food demands or stability, which are additional concepts of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T08:34:23.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19146" CreationDate="2014-09-28T15:54:03.897" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright, so I had this game for a while, it's a connect 4 , but each column has 2 slots. Some pieces, (called &quot;blockers&quot; take up both slots in the column) I'm not sure if I have enough pieces and blockers, to look it up I need the name. But I no longer have the box and cannot remember it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do anybody know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8530" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T16:27:49.293" Title="Connect 4 with 2 slots name?" Tags="|connect-four|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19145" CreationDate="2014-09-28T16:27:49.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like &quot;Connect 4x4&quot;. &#xA;Is this it:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/42685/connect-4x4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/42685/connect-4x4&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T16:27:49.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2014-09-28T17:28:47.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played a hand like this at my local club which has dealing machines and all, so definitely a random hand. My partner had 10 diamonds (AKQ, 7 others) and 3 singletons in each of the other suits (one being the QS). I believe he mistakenly opened with 5D because that is premptive and yet, his hand is extremely powerful.  In effect, he preempted me as well.  We made 7.  I thought that a 2C bid seemed more appropriate, however, I learned that the opening of 4NT was the most useful. The consensus was that if his partner had any Aces, then as captain, he could make the decision of whether to go to slam. If partner responds 5C, then he can still bail at 5D.&#xA;Even opening 1D would be right because you have an opening point count of 11HCP and at least 6 for length, so you know you can always jump to 5D if you have to on the 2nd bid, and possibly be doubled for an added benefit.&#xA;It was tremendous fun to have that hand to play and discuss. I wish that for everyone to experience at least once!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8614" LastActivityDate="2014-09-28T17:28:47.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19122" CreationDate="2014-09-28T23:13:15.703" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally it seems as though exact statistics are unavailable, though there are lots of booster/draft simulators available online to help you get a feel for distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best resource I found for booster pack setup has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Booster_pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;over at MTG salvation&lt;/a&gt; and via Wizard's own &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160107051930/http://archive.wizards.com/magic/tcg/resources.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/resources/boosterdraftsimulator&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Booster Draft Simulator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, from playing around with it, it seems as though there will always be at least 2 of each color and half creatures, half other spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless there is a resource I missed, more details statistics would have to be gathered using some booster simulating system, to which I wish you good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8617" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T16:00:41.093" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:00:41.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19122" CreationDate="2014-09-29T02:09:43.590" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no hard guarantee that a booster will contain X creatures, or X sorceries, or X red cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the contents of a booster aren't completely random either. Instead, the commons in a booster are heavily influenced by the set's &lt;em&gt;common print runs&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/limited-sealed-draft/545816-born-of-the-gods-common-print-runs&quot;&gt;Print runs are easiest to explain by example, so let's look at the print runs for Born of the Gods, a small set.&lt;/a&gt; The commons in the set are divided into two lists, with each common showing up in only one list (but appearing twice in that list).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A normal Born of the Gods booster contains 10 commons, made up of 4–6 commons from list A and 4–6 commons from list B. This means that certain combinations of commons are likely to occur together, and other combinations of commons can never occur together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all of this is probably too much of a hassle to be worth simulating when building your own repacks. I would probably just add 10 random commons from your pool. But print runs are the basis of how real boosters work, both in paper and online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1723" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T02:09:43.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-29T02:24:18.103" Score="-3" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 800 cards dated between 2004 up to 2011....  Is it cool to to build a deck from a variety of sets?  Trying to get into mtg and need a boost of knowledge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8619" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T17:15:19.520" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T17:57:16.647" Title="Magic the gathering deck foundation" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-09-29T21:42:57.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19151" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23105" CreationDate="2014-09-29T02:52:23.950" Score="2" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 7 player Twilight Imperium there are 3 starting positions that get trade goods at the beginning of the game.  The position that gets 6 trade goods is obviously worse than the others. The two that get 4 don't seem worse than their adjacent starting positions. What is different about them, that they require the bonus trade goods? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8620" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:20:01.540" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:20:01.540" Title="Why do some players get starting trade goods in 7 player TI3?" Tags="|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-29T03:11:32.583" Score="0" ViewCount="2379" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am playing a four man free for all, when do my artifacts untap using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unwinding%20Clock&quot;&gt;Unwinding Clock&lt;/a&gt;'s ability? I'm having trouble understanding. The card says &amp;quot;each other player&amp;quot;. If I am player one, are players two three and four &amp;quot;other players&amp;quot; or is player three the other player since it says &amp;quot;each other player&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8621" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T10:26:35.213" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:56:09.603" Title="What does &quot;each other player&quot; mean on Unwinding Clock?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="194" CreationDate="2014-09-29T03:26:26.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always use the original plastic shrink-wrap that the game shipped in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-s1p8Vnym0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-s1p8Vnym0&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8622" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T03:26:26.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19152" CreationDate="2014-09-29T03:30:16.197" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You untap your artifacts during player two's untap step, player three's untap step, and player four's untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't anything that's in the comprehensive rules or anything, it's just the meaning of the words on the card. &quot;Each other player&quot; could be explained as &quot;each player who is not you&quot; or to be really clear &quot;every single player who is not you&quot;. None of those players is you, so you untap your artifacts during each of their untap steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you might have been wondering whether &quot;each other&quot; meant alternating (yes 1, no 2, yes 3, no 4...) like &quot;every other&quot; sometimes does. But &quot;each other&quot; doesn't ever mean that, so there's no ambiguity here!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see this demonstrated indirectly a few places in the rules, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;103.4. ... First, the starting player declares whether or not he or she &#xA;  will take a mulligan. Then each other player in turn order does the same. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously that applies to all players, not alternating players! And of course, all the cards that say &quot;each other player&quot; wouldn't really make much sense if they meant alternating starting with you - in a two player game, that'd be just you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T14:39:51.613" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T14:39:51.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19156" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19160" CreationDate="2014-09-29T08:07:44.747" Score="4" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386504&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chief of the Edge&lt;/a&gt; has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Other Warrior creatures you control get +1/+0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I understand that it would definitely affect &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386483&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Avalanche Tusker&lt;/a&gt;. But if I play another Chief of the Edge, do they mutually affect each other, giving each other +1/+0 (and my Tusker +2/+0)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other examples where &quot;other&quot; is used in this way include &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220147&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adaptive Automaton&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Armament Master&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T09:51:56.340" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T15:46:42.040" Title="Does &quot;other&quot; refer to that particular instance or all cards of the same name?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19162" CreationDate="2014-09-29T08:53:07.037" Score="3" ViewCount="2840" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules it states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When taking &quot;Transform and build action&quot; you may skip one terrain or&#xA;  river space&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With our last game we had a little discussion that produces 2 questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you already have a building next to the area you can &quot;transform and build&quot; upon, but you can also reach that tile from an other tile that fulfills the rule (skip one terrain), can you use the ability to score the points?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you first use the ability to transform and the turn after that to build upon the tile?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played did it like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yes, you can transform, even if it is next to a tile with a building you own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no, because the second time you don't have to transform the tile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm not certain at all we played it correctly. Certainly the second issue we did wrong I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T14:06:04.503" Title="Fakir/Dwarf ability" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19156" CreationDate="2014-09-29T09:49:56.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right, they give each other +1/+0 as it says on the card. But not the the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190420&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Armament Master&lt;/a&gt;. because this is of type Soldier, not warrior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T09:49:56.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19180" CreationDate="2014-09-29T13:11:47.353" Score="6" ViewCount="2109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;strong&gt;Ticket To Ride&lt;/strong&gt; with my gf and friends and we love it! So much so that we always reach the end thinking, 'this went too quickly!'. We've toyed with playing two maps simultaneously, has anyone else tried this? If so, what was the experience like? Is this a viable way to get a longer version of Ticket to Ride? Would we need to modify other things to make it work? Is there a better way to achieve this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm expecting that playing two at once can be even more infuriating and head-hurting than just one! Trying to complete different tickets on different maps, trying to keep up with what I need on this map while you're doing something on the other one! I have the Europe and Asia versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T20:50:01.350" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T21:00:35.623" Title="Can we extend the game by playing Multiple Boards At Once?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19156" CreationDate="2014-09-29T13:56:34.137" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Other creatures you control&quot; means &quot;Creatures you control which are not this object.&quot; Chief of the Edge further restricts things by only affecting Warriors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ability did not affect creatures with the same name, it would read something like &quot;Creatures you control not named &quot;Chief of the Edge&quot;...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="8584" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T15:46:42.040" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T15:46:42.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19157" CreationDate="2014-09-29T14:06:04.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot use the tunneling or flying ability if you could reach the space without using it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. The only requirements for tunneling is that you do it as part of a terraform/expand action, and the terraform/expand action says that you can just terraform, just expand, or both. So turn 1 you can use the ability to do terraform/expand, choosing just to terraform, then turn 2 you can use the ability to do terraform/expand, choosing just to expand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this means that you can indeed spend multiple actions in a row terraforming the same spot over and over with tunneling. This can be a great way to get points with dwarves once you have fully upgraded your digging and you have your stronghold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Terra_Mystica_FAQ#toc16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ on boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can I use Tunneling or Carpet Flight to a Terrain space that is adjacent to one of my Structures, to get the VP?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can only do so when needed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can I use Tunneling or Carpet Flight to transform the same Terrain space several turns in a row, just to earn VP?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, that's allowed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T14:06:04.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19205" CreationDate="2014-09-29T14:08:37.917" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A multiple close combat scenario. 3 units are attacking one of my units. One is attacking the front. 1 on my left flank. 1 on my right flank. I have 15 models in the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 models are killed from the frontal attack. I remove 3 units from the rear of my unit. Now 2 models are in the rear of my unit. Who can those 2 models attack? Do they slide over to the right flank or the left? Or does the controller of the unit get to decide where they slide to? I read a rule that said they are assumed to slide over to engage in combat, but which side? Do they slide from side to side during one phase of combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are on the right flank, can the enemy at the left flank claim an extra model is in base contact with the last row even though they are not touching the actual model that is there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:36:43.040" Title="Model positioning during multiple close combats after removing models" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19167" CreationDate="2014-09-29T15:41:20.313" Score="7" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the full card list for Magic 2015, at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?page=10&amp;amp;sort=cn+&amp;amp;set=%5B%22Magic%202015%20Core%20Set%22%5D&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m15/en.html&quot;&gt;elsewhere&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see a bunch of cards listed with collectors number 270-284. What are these cards, and why are they listed as being part of Magic 2015? I played enough M15 Limited to be pretty sure that they aren't actually present in packs, and they're listed after the basic lands, which is very unusual. Is there some secret, bonus release of M15 that had these extra cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="156" LastEditorUserId="156" LastEditDate="2014-09-29T17:04:11.733" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:00:52.263" Title="Mystery cards in Magic 2015 card list" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-09-29T16:04:11.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are cards which you can get in the M15 learn to play packs. You can get these at your local (WPN) game store, but are mostly given to players which are new to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T16:04:11.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19165" CreationDate="2014-09-29T16:05:10.553" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, these cards are not in booster packs. For the past few years, Wizards has put out 30 card sample decks to introduce new players into the game. This year they decided to put into these packs a number of reprinted cards not actually present in M15: &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/arcana/magic-2015-sample-decks-2014-06-13-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;see here for decklists&lt;/a&gt;. Like the article mentions, the Deck Builder's Toolkit for M15 also has the extra cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since putting two of these sample decks together gives a basic 60 card, two-color deck, Wizards expects a number of people to do just that to build their first standard deck. They made those extra cards explicitly standard legal to allow people that option; most people would assume by default that such a deck is playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-12T16:00:52.263" LastActivityDate="2022-06-12T16:00:52.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19150" CreationDate="2014-09-29T17:57:16.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to clarify what you mean by 'cool'. &#xA;It is fun to use older cards, however, it is only allowed in some tournaments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are going to play with friends (called &quot;Casual Magic&quot;) then you should build decks with any cards you have. If your cards are too powerful, then your friends will complain. If your cards are too weak, then you might find yourself buying some new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastActivityDate="2014-09-29T17:57:16.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-09-30T04:44:49.640" Score="10" ViewCount="14662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I play the QS on the 3rd or 4th round everyone gets mad at me and says that's a low down nasty thing to do! I thought the QS should be dumped asap so as not to get stuck with it myself - which has happened more times that I care to recall, even when I have 4,5 or 6 Spades backing her up. What is the proper etiquette for dumping the QS in Hearts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8633" LastEditorUserId="119" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T04:51:55.780" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T13:48:39.603" Title="When should I get rid of the queen of spades in Hearts?" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-09-30T08:31:48.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on your hand sometimes, if I have a very heavy Spade hand, I will hold on the Q to play later on, trying to give it to whomever is leading at that point. Sometimes it backfires and you end up with it though! If I only have a few spades I get rid as soon as possible!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T08:31:48.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19152" CreationDate="2014-09-30T09:57:40.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each other player always means &lt;strong&gt;every player that is not yourself&lt;/strong&gt;, not to be confused with &lt;strong&gt;alternating players&lt;/strong&gt;. I've not come across a card that says this but I think this is what is confusing you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards usually use &lt;strong&gt;each other player&lt;/strong&gt; to signal every opponent &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=grave+pact&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=grave+pact&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;target opponent&lt;/strong&gt; to signal just one opponent. &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227064&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=227064&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastEditorUserId="8623" LastEditDate="2014-09-30T15:56:09.603" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T15:56:09.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-09-30T16:52:34.490" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no etiquette required when playing the QS.  It is worth half of the available points in the hand.  Anyone expecting you to be &quot;polite&quot; with it (whatever that means) is unrealistic and should go back to playing against the computer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are strategic exceptions.  For example, it may be advantageous to pass on an opportunity to play the Queen if you are trying to stick a specific opponent with it and think you can do so safely later in the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, are you sure they are actually upset?  Maybe they are trying to trash-talk or joke about their misfortune and just not doing a very good job of it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T16:52:34.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-09-30T17:56:30.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be risky to throw it very early (before any hearts have been played), as if you throw it to a player with a heart-strong hand you may be making it easy for them the shoot the moon.  Of course, they're likely call you nasty names when you throw it, just to conceal the shooting possibilities...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1019" LastActivityDate="2014-09-30T17:56:30.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19179" CreationDate="2014-10-01T13:53:10.653" Score="8" ViewCount="2146" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;Ticket To Ride US Edition&lt;/strong&gt; there was no stations, but in &lt;strong&gt;Europe Edition&lt;/strong&gt; there were.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing &lt;strong&gt;Asia Edition&lt;/strong&gt;, do you play with/without stations or is there no set rule about them?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't spot it in  the rules so I decided to go without stations, but I just wanted to check if there was a consensus on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastEditorUserId="26427" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T17:55:10.983" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T17:55:10.983" Title="Is Ticket To Ride Asia played with stations?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|ticket-to-ride-asia|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19178" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19189" CreationDate="2014-10-01T13:59:44.950" Score="4" ViewCount="8414" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Netrunner rules suggest playing with &lt;strong&gt;Jinteki&lt;/strong&gt; as a first hand, but I have heard that is a bad starting deck. Which should be used for a starting deck for introducing someone to the game? And which should be used for someone who has only played as the runner but not the corporation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T23:14:39.530" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T14:40:42.963" Title="What deck should be used for a beginner in Netrunner" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2014-10-01T14:12:26.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stations are specific to Europe and could potentially break (or perhaps make) games on other continents. Since Asia and other expansion maps can be played with both US and Europe base sets, the largest common denominator would be to not use stations in expansions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not tried using stations for Asia or India, perhaps it could be worth a test run, but I can see discussions coming up on combinations with Mandalas for India. Asia is more traditional in style (read: more like US) and tension remains mostly because of possible blockage by other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1194" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T14:12:26.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19159" CreationDate="2014-10-01T14:38:29.430" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, to extend the game you will need to add twice the train pieces as well as 2 boards. Maybe you should double the tickets too. This soon degrades into playing two different games at the same time, where you choose which one to play each round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second problem is all the advantage is on the side of playing on only one board. This is because adding more trains to a single board makes it easy to get more tickets on that board, while trains on both boards leads to spreading yourself thin. My solution to this is to modify (or replace) the longest railroad card to include a benefit for using both boards.&#xA;(eg. &lt;code&gt;longest railroad on board A * longest railroad on board B&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this variant is not a good idea, but you can try it and see what its like. Seems to me  an interesting experiment at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8648" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T14:38:29.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-01T14:59:40.953" Score="5" ViewCount="9948" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodcrazed%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Bloodcrazed Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; that's been given +1/+1 counters from its heroic ability, and then it's killed by an enemy creature, and then I cast a spell that returns it to the battlefield, does it still have the +1/+1 counters on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T16:23:34.053" LastActivityDate="2019-04-22T13:27:47.440" Title="When a creature dies and later returns to the battlefield, does it keep +1/+1 counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19185" CreationDate="2014-10-01T15:06:03.820" Score="9" ViewCount="4165" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/148228/splendor&quot;&gt;Splendor&lt;/a&gt; is a great game, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spacecowboys.fr/img/games/splendor/details/rules/Rules_Splendor_US.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; were written sub-optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following quotes the rules that specify what actions a player can take on his turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On their turn, a player must choose to perform only one of the following four actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Take 3 gem tokens of different colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Take 2 gem tokens of the same color. This action is only possible if there are at least 4 tokens of the chosen color left when the player takes them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Reserve 1 development card and take 1 gold token (joker).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Purchase 1 face-up development card from the middle of the table or a previously reserved one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As written, it's not hard to get into a situation where it's impossible to perform a legal turn. I presume you can pass if you can't perform any of the actions, but there might be other options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you reserve a development card if there is no gold left (taking the development card without gaining gold)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you take gems if there are fewer than three colors of gems left (taking one from each of the remaining colors)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T01:08:53.827" Title="Handling dwindling supplies in Splendor" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19181" CreationDate="2014-10-01T15:12:50.040" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it does not keep the +1/+1 counters. Specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Counter_(marker)&quot;&gt;rule 121.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Counters on an object are not retained if that object moves from one zone to another. The counters are not &quot;removed&quot;; they simply cease to exist. See rule 400.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Zones)&quot;&gt;rule 400.1&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A zone is a place where objects can be during a game. There are normally seven zones: library, hand, &lt;strong&gt;battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;graveyard&lt;/strong&gt;, stack, exile, and command. Some older cards also use the ante zone. Each player has his or her own library, hand, and graveyard. The other zones are shared by all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when the Hoplite dies, it moves from the battlefield to the graveyard, and its counters disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, rule 400.7 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has exceptions, but none apply here. The Hoplite that you return to the battlefield counts as a completely new creature with no memory of its previous existence on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-01T15:39:02.737" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T15:39:02.737" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2014-10-01T15:21:31.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spacecowboys.fr/faq&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aha!&lt;/a&gt; From the designer's web site,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I cannot take three tokens, and the two remaining stacks are less than four tokens high. Can I take tokens anyway?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The action &amp;quot;take three different tokens&amp;quot; allows you to pick only two different tokens, or even one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's yes to #2. One would imagine it's yes to #1 too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-01T23:27:34.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19186" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T04:04:31.547" Score="2" ViewCount="887" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which software is best for translating Yu-gi-oh cards from Japanese to English without changing the original art.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yc2xO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Japanese&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lMynw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;English&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8653" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T12:13:35.027" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T12:13:35.027" Title="Translation Software" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-10-02T15:39:26.380" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19186" CreationDate="2014-10-02T12:07:28.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two steps are needed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Erase the existing text. This is done by finding a card with little text and construct a square you can copy and paste over the existing text of the card you want to translate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add text.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every single image manipulation program can perform those operations (copy, paste, move and add text), including MS Paint, a little plaything that comes with Windows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T12:07:28.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2014-10-02T14:46:19.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;ikegami is correct - the answer to both is yes.  Taking a card to your reserve without receiving a corresponding gold is inefficient to your strategy but is definitely an option.  You can always take one each of three different colors; the rule you're mentioned simply indicates it's not legal to take two of the same color gem unless there's at least 4 in the stack at the time you take your two during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8656" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T14:46:19.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19178" CreationDate="2014-10-02T14:53:31.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jinteki is a bad choice for first time corp player because, with only the starter set, the deck does not have enough ways to generate credits. Having no money means you cannot do much and usually leads to the new player not having fun. If you are trying to teach someone, fun is the whole idea, so this is obviously counter productive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With core set only decks, I would do Weyland vs Shaper. Both play styles are easy and both run pretty rich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are up to building decks specifically for teaching there are some better options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/156783/netrunner-teaching-deck-project-now-core-decks-too&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;board game geek&lt;/a&gt; thread that has a lot of beginner deck suggestions, though some decks here use more than just the core set. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/Netrunner/comments/2fc482/coreonly_teaching_decks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reddit&lt;/a&gt; thread that has beginner decks using only the core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FFG has actually released decks that it thinks are the best for teaching. These decks leave out a lot of the more complicated mechanics such as Trace. They focus on both players setting up their side of the board quickly so there is almost always an &quot;end game&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Demo decks clearly don't follow normal deck building rules. They are purely for teaching. In addition they only require 6 points to win by agenda points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Jinteki - Personal Evolution&#xA;  Agendas:&#xA;  3x Priority Requisition&#xA;  3x Nisei mk2&#xA;  1x Unorthodox Predictions&#xA;  Operations:&#xA;  3x Hedge Fund&#xA;  1x Restructure&#xA;  2x Trick of Light&#xA;  2x Neural Emp&#xA;  Assets:&#xA;  2x Melange Mining Corp.&#xA;  2x Private Contracts&#xA;  2x Snare!&#xA;  2x Project Junebug&#xA;  ICE:&#xA;  3x Wall of Thorns&#xA;  2x Bastion&#xA;  2x Wall of Static&#xA;  3x Enigma&#xA;  3x Chum&#xA;  3x Neural Katana&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  Shaper - Kate &quot;Mac&quot; McCaffrey&#xA;  Events:&#xA;  3x Sure Gamble&#xA;  2x Modded&#xA;  2x Freelance Coding Contract&#xA;  2x The Maker's Eye&#xA;  2x Infiltration&#xA;  Resources:&#xA;  1x Professional Contacts&#xA;  1x Aesop's Pawnshop&#xA;  1x Ice analyzer&#xA;  2x Armitage Codebusting&#xA;  2x Public Sympathy&#xA;  Hardware:&#xA;  3x Akamatsu Mem Chip&#xA;  Programs:&#xA;  2x Magnum Opus&#xA;  1x Net Shield&#xA;  Icebreakers:&#xA;  2x Battering Ram&#xA;  2x Gordian Blade&#xA;  2x Pipeline&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastEditorUserId="5026" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T14:40:42.963" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T14:40:42.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19198" CreationDate="2014-10-02T15:02:27.383" Score="6" ViewCount="1733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anthony has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Courser%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; on the field. He begins resolving &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dig%20Through%20Time&quot;&gt;Dig Through Time&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Dig Through Time is resolving, must the top card be kept separate from the other six?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that Anthony's opponent should know what happens to the top card because it is revealed. What I don't understand is how a judge could enforce this. Anthony could easily shuffle the cards around in his hand before choosing two of them (and in practice, most people who I've seen cast Dig Through Time &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; mix up the cards before finally settling on two of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I think the rules allow for (&lt;em&gt;emphasis on the part I made up&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony leaves the top card revealed &lt;em&gt;and separate&lt;/em&gt; while browsing through the other six, which remain hidden. He chooses two out of the seven and puts them into his hand. If Anthony chooses the top card, his opponent will know because it was kept revealed and separate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm playing this deck at an invitational in two weeks and I need to know how to do this properly so that I can give the least amount of information to my opponents while not cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T14:51:22.770" Title="Putting cards into your hand while the top of library is revealed" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18423" CreationDate="2014-10-02T16:16:38.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several rating systems, for most players their KGS rating and EGF rating will be different, and it can be different from national rating systems (e.g. it is often assumed that French and British ratings for the same player are 2 stones different). So, in a sense, your question cannot be answered unless you specify the rating system you want to be measured against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benchmark could be a KGS rating, because KGS is so widely used. The best way to know your rating is to play on KGS with the real players, and KGS will answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be more psychologically comfortable to play against robots, but, from a personal experience, I would not recommend it, they do not help you to improve at the rate that the games against humans will. Also, they have flaws that you might identify and this will allow you to win the games against these robots, but this won't translate in your improved ability to play against humans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8658" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T16:16:38.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19194" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-02T17:17:39.477" Score="6" ViewCount="1364" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Link&quot;&gt;Soul Link&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant Creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever enchanted creature deals damage, you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever enchanted creature is dealt damage, you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the enchanted creature is blocking, does the player gain life from the both the dealing of damage and the takng of damage at the same time?  I would think so since damage is dealt simulateously and there is no reference to &amp;quot;either/or&amp;quot; in the oracle text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8659" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2023-04-11T10:24:11.573" LastActivityDate="2023-04-11T10:24:11.573" Title="Does Soul Link give life twice in combat and fighting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19194" CreationDate="2014-10-02T17:29:56.847" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are correct. When damage is dealt, 2 separate triggered abilities trigger. You will choose the order in which to put them on the stack, and then each one will resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example: Your Soul Link is enchanting a 3/3 creature, which is blocking a 1/1 attacker. When damage is dealt, your creature will deal 3 damage, and be dealt 1 damage. 2 abilities will trigger: &quot;gain 3 life&quot; and &quot;gain 1 life&quot;. You will put them both on the stack, and get a total of 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T17:29:56.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-10-02T18:08:37.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because some people worry that others will &quot;get control&quot; (aka &quot;shoot the moon&quot;), they have a personal rule not to play the QS before hearts are not just broken, but have been taken by two different people. That's their personal rule and they're welcome to have it. Then, especially if they are not playing against a wide variety of people, they may get it into their heads that everyone does that. This may lead them to feel that it's relatively safe to take a trick before two different people have taken a heart, since the QS is not going to be played. Then they take a trick like that, feeling happy that they've got rid of a high card and the worst that will happen is one heart, you play the QS, and they get a rude reminder that not everyone plays that way, and they react strongly to what you did. This doesn't make them right, I'm just explaining the emotions of someone who wasn't expecting you to ding them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your own purposes, if you're getting zinged with 26 points at least once every time you play, you might consider being a little more conservative with getting rid of that QS. (And perhaps your tablemates are partly objecting that &quot;you just made it so Steve can give us all 26 points, thanks a lot, next time think about the whole table not just getting rid of your hot card.&quot;) But if you're not, then you're doing nothing wrong and don't worry what people happen to say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1246" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T18:08:37.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2014-10-02T18:32:21.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have found that slowness has a varying impact. Slow is ok when it's not boring (unless dinner is burning while you're &quot;nearly finished!&quot; for an hour), but slow is awful when it's boring. The worst possible slow part is the very beginning, with endless fussing about which direction to build in, and the worst is those very first few moves. We therefore have a house rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the first three full turns, if you want to move one of your original two roads so that it connects to the same settlement, but goes in a different direction, you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that people still hum and haw about where to put the settlement, but they just plunk the road down immediately and we can move on. It also lowers the &quot;I would have won except you cruelly blocked me on turn 2 and I had no chance I hate this game.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that slows a game tremendously is a very early robber release. When hardly any hexes are producing, stopping one has more impact than it does later on. So our second house rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for the first three full turns, a roll of 7 means nothing, roll again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This prevents that slowdown and also the associated &quot;I would have won but you randomly chose me for that robber on turn 3 and I had no chance I hate this game.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, a game where one person is just stuck with two settlements, two or three road segments, and basically nothing for the whole game, while the others work their way up to 7, 8, 9 points before that person gets a 3rd or 4th point is not only slow, it's less fun. So avoiding the two biggest causes of someone cratering is a good thing. Some of our more serious-gamer friends mock us for these rules and say that's what happens when you let your children play, but we've noticed that they speed up games and make everyone happier, so we're keeping them. (And the friends are happy to take advantage of those rules when they play at our house.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1246" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T18:32:21.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-10-02T19:14:14.100" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, I would argue that Anthony's opponent should not know where the revealed card ends up. When you manipulate cards in a hidden zone, what happens is not free or derived information. See rule 400.2 (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.2. Public zones are zones in which all players can see the cards' faces, except for those cards that some rule or effect specifically allow to be face down. Graveyard, battlefield, stack, exile, ante, and command are public zones. Hidden zones are zones in which not all players can be expected to see the cards' faces. &lt;strong&gt;Library and hand are hidden zones, even if all the cards in one such zone happen to be revealed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would think while resolving &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dig%20Through%20Time&quot;&gt;Dig Through Time&lt;/a&gt;, and supposing X is on top of the library, the steps are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Look at the top seven cards of your library. [X is revealed at this point]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Put two of them into hand and the rest on the bottom of the library in any order. [flip X over, perform this action, then reveal the new top card of the library]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the choices made for (2) above do not fall under the categories of free or derived info (library is still a hidden zone, see 400.2 above), I don't see why Anthony's opponent should know what happened to X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2014-10-02T19:53:44.220" LastActivityDate="2014-10-02T19:53:44.220" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-10-03T02:46:55.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not have to set the revealed card aside or reveal whether it goes to your hand or your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_26sep14_11.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; lists the following as free information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Details of current game actions and past game actions that still affect the game state. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The name of any visible object.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The type of any counter in a public zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The physical status (tapped/flipped/unattached/phased) and current zone of any object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Player life totals, poison counter totals, and the game score of the current match.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The current step and/or phase and which player(s) are active&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it additionally lists the following as derived information (which is free in Regular REL):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The number of any type of objects present in any game zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;All characteristics of objects in public zones that are not defined as free information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Game Rules, Tournament Policy, Oracle content and any other official information pertaining to the &#xA;  current tournament. Cards are considered to have their Oracle text printed on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and, the most important rule here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any information that is not free or derived is automatically private information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that free and derived information together are everything your opponent is entitled to know. While you are resolving the spell, you must tell your opponent the name of the card that is currently on top of your library (since you are only looking at the cards, it is the card that was revealed before you started resolving it). Once you have finished resolving the spell, your opponent has to know what card ends up on top of the library. But the most important point here is that you are not required to show your opponent &lt;strong&gt;the actual card&lt;/strong&gt; while you are resolving the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T02:46:55.797" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19206" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:03:02.090" Score="0" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Race for the Galaxy, does the Alien Fuel Refinery restriction (&quot;you may not trade a good from this world&quot;) count as a &quot;trade power&quot; for the purposes of Trade League, or in other words do I score a point for having Alien Fuel Refinery in my tableau if I also play Trade League?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a bit strange to me that Trade League gives you points for not being able to trade, but (unless I've miscounted) Keldon's AI thinks that it does. Is there anything more official out there as a ruling on this one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T13:18:11.737" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T17:21:03.057" Title="Does Alien Fuel Refinery count as having a trade power in Race for the Galaxy?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19203" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:12:07.923" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has a trading power, the restriction is that you have to trade goods from other worlds. This could be done to restrict the card from being to good, or it balances with higher VP-score or lower cost to attack/buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this specific case, the reason that you cannot trade its own good is probably because it is cheap, or, that the designers wanted a cheap producing alien world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It produces a yellow good which combined with a trading power is a really good combination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1194" LastEditorUserId="1194" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T13:21:28.147" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:21:28.147" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19163" CreationDate="2014-10-03T13:36:43.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This exact situation is covered under Incomplete Ranks in the Close Combat section of the rules (pg 49.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the unit is fighting to its rear (&lt;strong&gt;or fighting to both flanks&lt;/strong&gt;) some&#xA;  enemy models might not end up in base contact because of the models in&#xA;  the incomplete rear rank. In this specific situation, &lt;strong&gt;the models can&#xA;  fight across the gap, even if not physically in base-to-base contact&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;  In reality, the chargers would not have stopped one step away from the&#xA;  enemy and would have moved in to continue the fight — treat these&#xA;  models as being in base contact with the enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They count as being in base contact even though there is a gap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T13:36:43.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19203" CreationDate="2014-10-03T14:15:39.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does count. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=1813&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alien Artifact rules&lt;/a&gt; actually cover this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Consume powers, such as Trade League’s power, can be used. &#xA;  Trade League and Wormhole Prospectors do score for this world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=506&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Brink of War rules&lt;/a&gt; explicitly state that Trade League does score for the can't sell power of Alien Oort Cloud Refinery (bottom of page 13)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T17:21:03.057" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T17:21:03.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19210" CreationDate="2014-10-03T14:20:18.867" Score="0" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of creating a custom player board for Eclipse as a gift for a friend of mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking it up online I found an image of something quite similar to what I wanted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zzz2T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zzz2T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fanmade Star Trek board for Eclipse&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have three questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where would I find original graphics to modify?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I produce good quality boards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this legal?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This is not the exact board I want to make.  I will not use a Star Trek theme; I am planning to use another theme that is not trademarked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8648" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:40:48.520" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:40:48.520" Title="Custom boards for Eclipse" Tags="|eclipse|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19190" CreationDate="2014-10-03T14:24:01.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moving a card is an action that affects the game state. You can't say &quot;I moved the card, but I'm not telling you to where&quot; because &quot;details of current game actions and past game actions that still affect the game state&quot; are free information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, Dig Through Time has you &lt;em&gt;look&lt;/em&gt; at seven cards, not &lt;em&gt;draw&lt;/em&gt; them. As such, they don't leave your library at this time. Later, you move them to your hand or to the bottom of your library. This is when the cards are revealed. As such, the opponent knows where the card ended up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T14:51:22.770" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T14:51:22.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19207" CreationDate="2014-10-03T17:22:05.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The developers have posted official goodies on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/711252/eclipse-official-goodies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this boardgamegeek page&lt;/a&gt;. I don't see a scoring track file, but there is a compact technology board in pdf format and other files you could take graphics from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with techniques on how to make a high-quality product, but I'm sure it will involve a decent colour printer, some heavy cardboard backing, glue, and probably a nice roller to smooth it out. ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's for your own personal use and not for resale, I think you're in the clear using the developer-supplied pdf files above, but I am not a lawyer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T17:22:05.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19207" CreationDate="2014-10-03T17:22:56.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1. Where would I find original graphics to modify?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could use a scanner. Many home and office printers can act as a scanner, so it should be pretty easy to get access to one. 300dpi is sufficient, but avoid anything lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular case, you could derive from &lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5496950/Eclipse-goodies/Eclipse_xmas_playerboard.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;2. How can I produce good quality boards?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on what material you want it printed. If you just want some thick paper, talk to your local print shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;3. Is this legal?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original board does get some Copyright protections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean what you're doing is illegal. Fair use allows the use of works protected by Copyright. In the US, judges consider the following four factors to determine if a copyrighted work is allowed under by &lt;a href=&quot;http://fairuse.stanford.edu/overview/fair-use/four-factors/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fair use&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The purpose and character of your use,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nature of the copyrighted work,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The amount and substantiality of the portion taken, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The effect of the use upon the potential market.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your custom boards are not a replacement for the game, so the tests lean in your favour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're doing this for yourself and maybe a few friends, there's really no issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Picard's picture is more questionable. But even if it's technically infringing, it's not really a problem unless you start producing many and/or selling them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T19:40:02.603" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T19:40:02.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19211" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19213" CreationDate="2014-10-03T20:57:19.833" Score="10" ViewCount="2763" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/release-notes-2014-09-18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Khans of Tarkir Release Notes&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a face-down creature loses its abilities, it can’t be turned face up [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that Morph is an ability. However, the community here seems fairly certain that Morph is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/18889/6692&quot;&gt;Answer - Why is Morph not considered an ability?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Morph is not an ability, then how does losing all abilities prevent a face down permanent from being turned face up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:06:19.937" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:06:19.937" Title="If face down permanents have no abilities, why are they affected by &quot;loses all abilities&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19211" CreationDate="2014-10-03T21:05:55.793" Score="19" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;the community here seems fairly certain that Morph is not an ability.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morph is an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.36a Morph is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the face-down permanent doesn't have it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;707.2. Face-down spells and &lt;strong&gt;face-down permanents have no characteristics&lt;/strong&gt; other than those listed by the ability or rules that allowed the spell or permanent to be face down. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.36b To cast a card using its morph ability, turn it face down. It becomes a 2/2 face-down creature card, &lt;strong&gt;with no text&lt;/strong&gt;, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMuraganda%20Petroglyphs%5d&quot;&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Muraganda Petroglyphs gives a bonus only to creatures that have no rules text at all. This includes true vanilla creatures (such as Grizzly Bears), &lt;strong&gt;face-down creatures&lt;/strong&gt;, many tokens, and creatures that have lost their abilities (due to Ovinize, for example). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;how does losing all abilities prevent a face down permanent from being turned face up?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The special action that allows a face-down card to be turned face-up checks the morph cost of the card as if it were face-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.36d If you have priority, you may turn a face-down permanent you control face up. This is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). To do this, show all players what the permanent’s morph cost would be if it were face up, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up. (&lt;strong&gt;If the permanent wouldn’t have a morph cost if it were face up, it can’t be turned face up this way.&lt;/strong&gt;) The morph effect on it ends, and it regains its normal characteristics. Any abilities relating to the permanent entering the battlefield don’t trigger when it’s turned face up and don’t have any effect, because the permanent has already entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect suppressing the abilities of a face-down card with morph would continue to affect it once it's turned face-up too&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;, so it wouldn't have a morph cost if it were face-up, so it cannot be turned face-up by the special action described in 702.36d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by the The Khans of Tarkir Release Notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a face-down creature loses its abilities, it can't be turned face up because it no longer has morph (or a morph cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the effect wouldn't affect the face-up permanent (e.g. &amp;quot;Permanents with no names lose all abilities&amp;quot; created by a static ability), then you could morph it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-02-12T23:52:01.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19211" CreationDate="2014-10-03T21:06:31.623" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question you reference has an incorrect premise. Morph is an ability, but the face-down creature does not have it because it is face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Morph&quot;&gt;Rule 702.36d&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have priority, you may turn a face-down permanent you control face up. This is a special action; it doesn‘t use the stack (see rule 115). To do this, show all players what the permanent‘s morph cost would be if it were face up, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up. (&lt;strong&gt;If the permanent wouldn‘t have a morph cost if it were face up, it can‘t be turned face up this way.&lt;/strong&gt;) The morph effect on it ends, and it regains its normal characteristics. Any abilities relating to the permanent entering the battlefield don‘t trigger when it‘s turned face up and don‘t have any effect, because the permanent has already entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the face-down permanent loses its abilities, then it wouldn't have the ability or the morph cost if it were face up because it would be the same object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-03T21:12:39.933" LastActivityDate="2014-10-03T21:12:39.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7375" CreationDate="2014-10-04T03:08:17.780" Score="9" Body="&lt;h1&gt;342&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For third edition rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's one way how:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByTX4.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ByTX4.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;setup after all moves&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;The numbers show when tiles are placed. Black is the first player to move and always places a meeple where the number is. Blue moves second and never places a meeple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Proof of optimality&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Meeple usage optimality:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player to move will have 36 turns and thus only 36 opportunities to place meeples for points. The best usage of those 36 is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 for fields&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 for cloisters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;16 for cities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 for roads&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No more can be placed on fields since you don't get those back. The number on cities and cloisters are sufficient to count all possible city/cloister points (except the odd city tile, see city optimality). So the only possible useful change would be to get more roads, which adds at most 2 because all roads without endpoints are already scored. But 2 is less than the amount we would lose by having less cities (each extra city adds 3 field points to each big field), cloisters (9 each), or small field (6 each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;City optimality:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 44 city tiles and 10 shields. 5 of the city tiles have two separate cities on them and so if you put them on separate cities they can be counted twice. This would all be worth 59 points and completed cities are worth double making 118. However all completed cities must have an even vertical perimeter and an even horizontal perimeter because they must be complete on both left/right and up/down (a diagonal city tile has 1 horizontal and 1 vertical perimeter, not 1 total perimeter). For example say a city is 5 tiles tall, then its vertical perimeter must be 10 if completed, yes you could have concavity but the same rules apply to that. And since the total horizontal+vertical perimeter of all available tiles is odd, you cannot complete all city tiles, the best you can do is leave out one tile. This means the maximum city score is &lt;code&gt;(59-1)*2=116&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Field optimality:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need to maximize the number of completed cities since we can construct big fields that touch all cities. A completed city must have at least 4 tiles with a corner that do not have their own city touching them. Diagonal city tiles (i.e black #29) have 1 such corner and the simple side piece cities (i.e. the starting tile) have 2 such corners (all other city tiles have 0). There are 10 diagonals city tiles and 28 simple side piece cities (tiles with 2 simple side piece cities count as 2). This gives &lt;code&gt;10+28*2=66&lt;/code&gt; corners which allows for a maximum of 16 cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to maximize the number of fields that touch these 16 cities. I will attempt to explain this intuitively but user1873 came to the same conclusion and proves it using graph theory (see their answer - which is the same in other ways except only has 15 cities). At most we can have 2 big fields touching all cities. A third field must be stuck inside these big fields and therefore only touching only 2 cities. In order to touch a third city it would have to cross one of the big fields, but this would split that big field into two smaller fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we have 2 big fields touching 16 cities and 5 small fields touching 2 cities. &lt;code&gt;2*16*3+5*2*3=126&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Road optimality:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each completed road has 2 end points. There are 32 road tiles without end points which can fit into any completed road. So the maximum points you can get from roads are &lt;code&gt;2 * #roads + 32&lt;/code&gt;. Since we only have time to place meeples on 7 roads this gives &lt;code&gt;2*7+32=46&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cloister optimality:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of 6 cloisters can score a maximum of 9 for &lt;code&gt;6*9=54&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sum of optimal features &lt;code&gt;116+126+46+54 = 342&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to say that this is a beautiful question because not only is the proof multi faceted with outside the box thinking required, but because actually finding a configuration that achieved it was really nontrivial and fun. So much so that even 6 years later I remember the joy of figuring out to put that gap in the city to allow it to complete and the tile missing to prevent the two big fields from joining. That beauty is why I've revisited this and rewritten this answer to make it more clear and also to break it down into an example with all moves and a separate proof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An open question would be what the maximum possible score in a one player game is. You'd have 31 more turns to place meeples but the only possible points to grab would be completing more roads. There are 12 road endpoints unused in my example but how in the world would you rearrange them to connect with each other without breaking other things? Another open question is what the total collaborative score is for games of 2-5 players. This would be tricky since sharing cities, fields and even roads would need to be done as much as possible but it surely won't be possible to share everything. These questions will be an order of magnitude harder to solve and prove optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8672" LastEditorUserId="8672" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T23:33:14.817" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T23:33:14.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2014-10-04T04:40:34.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Amulet&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Amulet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skittering%20Invasion&quot;&gt;Skittering Invasion&lt;/a&gt; on the board to spawn off 5 tokens and then play.&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cryptic%20Gateway&quot;&gt;Cryptic Gateway&lt;/a&gt; to tap 2 of the tokens to play any Eldrazi from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The harder way: Urza lands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urza%20Incubator&quot;&gt;Urza Incubator&lt;/a&gt;, as well as the Urza land combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;12 post the crap out of it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these ways are how my deck works, and I have been able to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; on turn 4 multiple times; as well as being able to play Eldrazi left and right by turn 6 and quickly take control of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8674" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-10-04T05:22:08.057" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T05:22:08.057" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4084" CreationDate="2014-10-04T08:15:22.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply change the goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is too long? Then the goal is to reach 7 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is too short? Then the goal is to reach 12 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can basically do that with any &quot;number of points to win&quot; game, it's so simple no one ever thinks about that!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T08:15:22.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2014-10-04T13:39:18.900" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I exploited an AI bug in Androminion to rack up 563 VP with only card points (so no Bishop, Goons or Monument). The kingdom was as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crossroads &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bridge &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gardens &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rats &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Silk Road &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Duke &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tactician &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wharf &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nobles &lt;br&gt;&#xA;King's Court &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The AI bug in question is that one of the AI opponents will buy and play exclusively Rats, thinning their deck down to the 20 Rats in the supply and cycling through them indefinitely. This left me free to purchase every other card on the board (Final deck size of 248). The final VP breakdown:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Estate - 11 VP (1x11) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Duchy - 24 VP (8x3) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Province - 48 VP (8x6) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Colony - 80 VP (8x10) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Duke - 64 VP (8x8) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Gardens - 192 VP (8x24) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nobles - 16 VP (8x2) &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Silk Road - 128 VP (8x16) &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8677" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T13:39:18.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2155" CreationDate="2014-10-04T14:22:47.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since everyone plays differently, I'll just share my personal checklist for coming up with my board strategies.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: I'm a &quot;Thin-to-Win&quot; guy so the first thing I'm looking for is a decent, preferably non-type-specific trasher. So I'm looking for Chapel, Steward, Bishop or Forge. In a pinch, Moneylender, Counterfeit or Spice Merchant are good for dumping your early Coppers. For later in the game, I'm also checking for something like Remodel or Governer to upgrade Golds to Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2: Are there any attack cards I can either use, or have to counter? If Thief or Noble Brigands is on the field, I'm checking for either alt-money or or a direct counter-card (Moat). If there's a hand-size attack (Goons, Urchin, Militia), then I'm checking if there's Watchtower, Library or multi-card draws (Preferably with a Village variant since those are usually terminal cards). Junkers can usually be handled either with the aforementioned Trashers, or Watchtower, but Trader's also nice for getting a Silver instead of a Curse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3: Are there any entertaining or potential Mega-Turn combos? Something like King's Court/Bridge, Hermit/Market Square, Beggar/Gardens, Goons/Watchtower etc. If you're playing with experienced opponents (or even just opponents who've seen that particular combo before), you either need to prepare to counter/mitigate it or go for it yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually have pretty good luck by taking the above into consideration, though my usual opponents are starting to adapt to my play-style. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8677" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T14:22:47.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19240" CreationDate="2014-10-04T15:45:09.587" Score="1" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vargheist have frenzy. Frenzy gives an extra attack. The profile for vargheist says it has 3 attacks. Does the profile include the extra attack from frenzy or are they supposed to have 4 attacks with frenzy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T15:23:43.620" Title="Is the extra attack from frenzy on the profile of the Vargheist?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19281" CreationDate="2014-10-04T19:14:22.637" Score="2" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;The event on &lt;strong&gt;CIA Created*&lt;/strong&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The USSR reveals their hand of cards for this turn. The US may use the&#xA;  Operations value of this card to conduct Operations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing as the US, am I allowed to look at the USSR's hand anytime during the turn which this was played or only one time, when the card is played? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8424" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T17:36:57.343" Title="Does the event on CIA Created* have a one-time effect or last the duration of the turn?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19229" CreationDate="2014-10-04T19:24:44.290" Score="1" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Twilight Struggle, if the Cuban Missile Crisis is in effect and the targeted player takes a free coup using the Junta event, does that trigger the end of the game clause on the Cuban Missile Crisis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card texts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cuban Missile Crisis*&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Set Defcon to Level 2. Any further Coup attempt by your opponent,&#xA;  anywhere on the board, will result in Global Thermonuclear War. Your&#xA;  opponent will lose the game. This event may be canceled at any time if&#xA;  the USSR player removes two Influence from Cuba or the US player&#xA;  removes 2 Influence from either West Germany or Turkey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Junta&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place 2 Influence in any one Central or South American country. Then&#xA;  you may make a free Coup attempt or Realignment roll in one of these&#xA;  regions (using this card's Operations Value). [2 Ops]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess the question boils down to what does &quot;free Coup&quot; mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2017-12-28T12:03:43.280" Title="Does a Junta during the Cuban Missile Crisis end the game?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19226" CreationDate="2014-10-04T19:52:36.053" Score="31" ViewCount="2874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many cooperative games (like Pandemic or Arkham Horror) could be played by a single player, even though they're intended to be played by a team of players striving against the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What makes a cooperative game &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; multiple players?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What aspects can a cooperative game have that make it actually impossible to play as a solo game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm talking about a &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cooperative game here, where everyone wins or loses together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many cooperative games suffer when one player knows the game best, so they just tell everyone else what to do.  If the other players are new enough (or meek enough), the game turns into a one-player game with a bunch of confused spectators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; be played by a single player, the knowledgable player's advice is still advice, but it's less compelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that I'm not asking what to do about overbearing players.  I'm asking what makes it &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt; for a cooperative game to be played solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2014-10-04T21:47:58.130" LastActivityDate="2017-11-18T09:01:33.367" Title="What makes a cooperative game require multiple players?" Tags="|game-design|cooperation|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19225" CreationDate="2014-10-04T20:02:37.973" Score="1" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing as the USSR, and Five-Year Plan was played against me.  Defectors was the randomly selected card. It has a US event, so it triggers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, the event in question occurs when &quot;played by USSR during Soviet action round&quot;. Does that event occur? It seems to me that it would trigger if I were the one who played Five-Year Plan, but since it was played on a US action round, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card texts are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Five-Year Plan&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;USSR player must randomly discard one card. If the card has a US associated&#xA;  Event, the Event occurs immediately. If the card is a USSR associated&#xA;  Event or an Event applicable to both players, then the card must be&#xA;  discarded without triggering the Event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Defectors&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play in Headline Phase in order to cancel&#xA;  USSR Headline Event, including scoring card. Canceled card&#xA;  returns to Discard Pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If &lt;em&gt;Defectors&lt;/em&gt; is played by the USSR&#xA;  during Soviet action round, the US gains 1 VP. (unless played on the Space Race)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T20:40:42.070" Title="Does Defectors do anything when triggered by Five-Year Plan" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19224" CreationDate="2014-10-04T20:40:42.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If Defectors is triggered by Five-Year Plan during the Headline Phase, it cancels the USSR event if it hasn't happened yet&lt;/strong&gt;. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/nnts/FAQv5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twilight Struggle FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If Defectors is not selected by the US, but a Headline&#xA;  event causes it to be played, is the USSR Headline event canceled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: If the event that caused Defectors to be played would be executed before&#xA;  the USSR event, then that event is canceled. If the USSR event has already&#xA;  been executed, it is not canceled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if Defectors is triggered as an event during the US Action phase, the event occurs, but no VP is gained (because it's not the USSR Action Round).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3278" LastActivityDate="2014-10-04T20:40:42.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2014-10-04T21:44:31.820" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing I can think of is &lt;strong&gt;limited knowledge&lt;/strong&gt;. Hanabi is a cooperative game where each player has access to different information (no one can see the cards in his or her own hand, but can see everyone else's cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as different players have access to different information, playing by yourself becomes impossible. The other examples I can think of are partnership card games: Bridge, Pinochle, Canasta, Tichu, etc. They all have strict rules against communication between partners, so you cannot let your partner know what cards are in your hand. Due to this rule, a person could not end up playing both sides of the partnership by himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of thing could easily be implemented in non-card games as well, as long as there is some information that some players have but other players don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way that one could make a co-op game actually require multiple people is to &lt;strong&gt;have rules against table talk&lt;/strong&gt;. Even if all knowledge is open, you can make it illegal to discuss moves. For example, you could play a Pandemic variant where any discussion between players about what should be done is illegal. You are still allowed to ask what cards other players have (or just play open-handed; same thing really), but no other discussion allowed. Thus, each player needs to decide what he wants to do on his turn all by himself, and the challenge comes on picking up the slack where other players are lacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage Report took another approach. All players &lt;strong&gt;play simultaneously and asynchronously&lt;/strong&gt; (not everyone is on the same turn), and there are &lt;strong&gt;enforced time limits&lt;/strong&gt; to turns. This prevents the game from being played solo (though a dominant player can still influence others)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;Hidden roles&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; type games can also work this way. Battlestar Galactica, for example. You could consider this a co-op game, because most of the players are all working together. Though instead of fighting against the game itself, as with Pandemic, you are fighting against the 1 or 2 other players who are not on your team. But due to the fact that roles are hidden, each player only knows his own role. This makes it impossible to play by yourself. Of course most probably wouldn't consider this a co-op game, but the basic principle is still there.. most of the people playing the game are playing co-op with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-10-05T03:09:49.350" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T03:09:49.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2014-10-05T02:08:14.063" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A game whose game states are too complex for a single player to handle is another way to require multiple players, although this is subjective to the player or the design of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Sentinels of the Multiverse is a cooperative multiplayer game where each player makes decisions for a single a character and the players cooperatively track the antagonistic actions of the game. The game requires a minimum of three characters. The game state for this game is often very complex because characters take actions which are often modified the previous actions taken by other players, usually in the form of bonus and penalties requiring arithmetic. It is played using cards and tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if SotM is played by a single player, the player has to make decisions for three characters and track the antagonistic actions of the game, which amount to a more complex fourth character. Since it has no centralized board, information about the game state is distributed across many card (on the order of 30+) and tokens (often 70+). This can make something as simple as keeping track of whose turn it is exceedingly difficult to do without error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned above, the design of the game can mitigate this effect. If the game visually tracks enough of the game state to allow the player to know what is going on without having to remember, then this isn't an issue. Pandemic is a good example of this kind of a game. The player's skill and memory would also play a part in mitigating the issue of complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another game mechanic which works into the games state complexity issue, is when the game allows multiple sources of hidden information to effect the current decision. For example, Let's say a 4 player game gives each player a hand of 7 cards intended to be kept secret. Players take turns taking actions, but when it isn't your turn, you may play cards from your hand to assist the active player. So at any give time, you're assessing 7 cards to determine if they can help someone else. However if you're playing this game solo, then you're actually handling a hand of 28 cards, and also attempting to make decisions about what action is most optimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8643" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T02:08:14.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2014-10-05T02:49:43.650" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to @GendoIkari's excellent answer, a possible way to force the need for multiple players is to force simultaneous action with time constraints. Space Alert, for instance, requires that all players react to imperfect information and is simply too fast to plan perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8072" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T02:49:43.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19222" CreationDate="2014-10-05T03:33:54.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;does that trigger the end of the game clause on the Cuban Missile&#xA;  Crisis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6.3.5 Cards that state a player may make a “free Coup roll” in a particular region may ignore the geographic restrictions of the current DEFCON level (see 8.1.5). However, a “free Coup roll” used against a Battleground country would still lower DEFCON as per 6.3.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A free coup attempt event only negates the geographic location, not DEFCON status. This would still cause DEFCON to reach 1 and the phasing player would still lose the game after attempting the coup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8424" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T03:33:54.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19231" CreationDate="2014-10-05T15:22:30.133" Score="15" ViewCount="5151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our family is just learning this game. We were wondering if each player typically announces which deck they are using beforehand. If yes, in how much detail?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could not find anything in the rules about this but wondered if there's standard etiquette around this in casual play. In our starter games, one player sometimes feels surprised and annoyed the other player made changes to their deck without announcing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T00:03:08.367" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T16:23:11.567" Title="Must a player disclose what deck they are using before play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19230" CreationDate="2014-10-05T16:18:00.993" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly no, but it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, here's a relevant quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Tournament_Rules_PDF2.pdf&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; (section 2.7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generally, decklists are not public information and are not shared&#xA;  with other players during a tournament. At constructed-format,&#xA;  Professional REL tournaments (Pro Tour, World Magic Cup, Magic: The&#xA;  Gathering World Championship, and Grand Prix), copies of opponents’&#xA;  decklists will be provided to players in the single-elimination&#xA;  playoffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for some personal experience: In draft events I have played, it is not normal (although it happens occasionally) to give information about your deck before playing. Many times someone will finish the first game (best of 3) without revealing one of their win conditions, and will keep it a secret until it actually comes out in play in the 2nd or 3rd game of the match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, some reasoning: In casual play I think it makes even more sense to change and keep a secret the content of your deck. I play more Android: Netrunner than Magic, so this reasoning draws on my experience there as well, but in general my goal in constructing a deck is to make one that will be resilient to surprises, and have a chance at winning against a variety of deck strategies. To that end, knowing the contents of my opponent's deck is a hindrance. I would rather we constantly surprise each other to try and polish off the rough edges of each other's decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this way of thinking works very well among confident, competitive people, but might be harder to swallow for somebody still learning the mechanics of the game. Especially at the beginning, you might choose to help somebody along by explaining the changes you're making ahead of time, and why you think they'll make your deck better. Well, we've taken a turn into the highly subjective world of interpersonal relationships, so I'd better sign off before I get myself in trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T16:18:00.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19230" CreationDate="2014-10-05T16:24:25.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no rules that require players to share with each other what cards are in their decks. Even in tournaments, where players are required to register a list of every card in their deck with tournament officials, that information is generally not shared with other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my own experience with casual play, we knew what decks everyone was using by the color of the sleeves, and we didn't consider it a requirement to inform each other about deck changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T16:24:25.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="50822" CreationDate="2014-10-05T19:51:36.127" Score="8" ViewCount="1348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m having trouble understanding how to apply the ko rule. For instance, in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)#Ko_rule&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;description in Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, there is an example where the ko rule can potentially apply. But suppose there were two, or three, or four such scenarios on the board. Does one really have to keep track of all the past states of the board? Would you just keep going round-and-round, and whoever created the last original board configuration wins those points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8683" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T14:54:32.413" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T17:08:07.297" Title="How to apply the ko rule (Go)" Tags="|go|ko|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19243" CreationDate="2014-10-05T21:05:02.100" Score="1" ViewCount="187" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have rune of spellbreaking on multiple rune smiths can I use it once on each of them? It says one use only, does that mean one use only on that character or for the entire army?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T22:49:56.207" Title="Rune of spellbreaking on multiple runelords" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19233" CreationDate="2014-10-05T22:13:49.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ko only prevents a player from making a move that would have the effect of returning the board to the position that it was in just before his opponent's last move only. So the only thing you ever need to keep track of is what the board was like just before your opponent made his last move; you cannot move such that it would recreate that position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the further description in the wiki is explaining what a player will do if the move they want to make it prevented by ko. They make a move somewhere else on the board that forces black to respond to it; thus freeing them to make the play that they couldn't have played the previous turn due to ko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-10-05T22:13:49.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19233" CreationDate="2014-10-06T00:04:08.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need something like three kos to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's say that there are two players, X and Y. Player X takes the first ko. Player Y takes a second ko as a &quot;ko threat.&quot; Player X takes a third ko in response. Player Y re-takes the first ko. Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ko rule serves to prevent repetition between one or two kos. But if there are enough kos so that you can take them in a &quot;round robin,&quot; then the game could go on endlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T00:04:08.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19230" CreationDate="2014-10-06T03:08:29.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is as far as I am aware of no standard ruling or custom for casual play. So I'll talk from what I've seen in live groups. More often among friends, people call deck changes between games, mostly in the form of &quot;I'm using the Red/blue combo deck&quot; or &quot;I'm using the elf one&quot;. This is not a hard and fast rule but more courtesy to allow people to adjust before the game is underway, as a 4 men game can last for a long time. If you keep playing with the same people, they will eventually figure out the deck's strategy and win condition, so that just calling the colors is enough information. I've also seen many people directly explain how the deck can break apart, most of the time to break the illusion that a deck might be invincible or widely above the others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I've found it is part of the fun to keep the secondary win condition untold. As it sometimes make for interesting reversal when they get into play. &#xA;Remember that for groups of friend, the point is to have fun. So rules will be decided by the group, probably naturally to make everyone happy. That goes from house rules (as much as there are house rules in Magic) to mood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When details can be kept secret&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some times where details are kept secret :&#xA;As the level rises or when I'm playing with more-or-less-strangers, some people will sometime keep the deck secret for the opening game and not give info. Keep in mind that those are casual games in that they are not tournament worthy and loosely regulated, but the game is played competitively in this case. If you're playing with your family as you mention, it might not be your case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a deck has just been modified or is brand new, I'll see peopleplaying a game or two to show it off before really explaining it. I've also seen new decks who played the obfuscation game until someone could figure out how the deck work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8684" LastEditorUserId="8684" LastEditDate="2014-10-12T16:23:11.567" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T16:23:11.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19242" CreationDate="2014-10-06T06:57:49.783" Score="1" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the arrival of new summoning spells in the End of Times expansion there is a new spell which allows the wizard to summon a character (worth up to 65 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this spell be used to summon a character directly into an existing unit or do they have to appear nearby and walk in during the movement phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T02:40:09.467" Title="Can characters be summoned into a unit?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19220" CreationDate="2014-10-06T15:23:43.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Vargheist is supposed to have 4 attacks. Its profile states it has 3 attacks naturally, and then you add 1 for the frenzy special rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is due to the unit being able to lose Frenzy, and as such losing the extra attack, without changing the unit's baseline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same for other units such as Witch Elves, and dual wielding units, with the extra attack being added to the unit without changing the unit base stats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8686" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T15:23:43.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2014-10-06T16:26:01.773" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;co-operative games for children often rely on pooling resources against some sort of &quot;ticking clock&quot; - the wave is coming in, or the giant is going to wake up. A single person playing alone and getting one resource per turn wouldn't accumulate them fast enough to beat the clock. Three players means three chance at a resource before the clock ticks again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose one person could play all three seats, but that would feel really weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1246" LastActivityDate="2014-10-06T16:26:01.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19238" CreationDate="2014-10-07T02:40:09.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Summoning Spells (Nagash Book 1, pg 14) state that &lt;em&gt;&quot;the Summoned unit must be deployed wholly within the spell's range &lt;strong&gt;and at least 1&quot; away from all other units&lt;/strong&gt;, buildings and impassable terrain.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Spell &lt;em&gt;&quot;Kandorak - The Harbinger&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (Nagash Book 1, pg 15) does not state that the charcter summoned has an exception to this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T02:40:09.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19243" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19234" CreationDate="2014-10-07T02:53:45.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this is intended to mean &lt;em&gt;&quot;one use only&quot;&lt;/em&gt; per rune item which has the rune. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find anywhere this is stated outright in the 8th ed rules, but this is how such items have always been played, at least in my personal and tournament experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be odd for them to let you take more than one  and then limit you to only using one of the Runes you paid for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term has been used in numerous previous editions, and in those cases you could buy multiple &lt;em&gt;&quot;one use only&quot;&lt;/em&gt; Dispel Scrolls etc in your army and each scroll could be used &quot;once&quot;, not one scroll despite how many you had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-10-07T22:49:56.207" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T22:49:56.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19246" CreationDate="2014-10-07T15:20:37.773" Score="3" ViewCount="2758" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast a creature for its bestow cost:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you begin casting, it is a &lt;strong&gt;Creature&lt;/strong&gt; spell&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We know this because &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/19086/6692&quot;&gt;Steel Golem prevents Bestow creatures from being cast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you pay the alternative cost, it becomes an &lt;strong&gt;Aura&lt;/strong&gt; spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it gets placed onto the stack, it is an &lt;strong&gt;Aura&lt;/strong&gt; spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bestow triggers things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Prowess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prowess&lt;/a&gt;. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://tabakrules.tumblr.com/post/81373872422/does-casting-a-creature-for-its-bestow-cost-trigger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matt Tabak's ruling&lt;/a&gt; on this subject. However, it does not trigger things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarametra%2c%20God%20of%20Harvests%5d&quot;&gt;Karametra, God of Harvests&lt;/a&gt;' triggered ability. See the ruling on Karametra herself. The Karametra case is confusing to me, because at one point, you were casting a Creature spell, and at another point, you were casting an Aura spell. It seems like both should trigger. So my real question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At exactly what points during the casting of a spell do triggered abilities check to see if they triggered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:44:15.637" Title="When is the game state checked for &quot;Whenever you cast [...]&quot; triggers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19244" CreationDate="2014-10-07T15:29:28.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spell is cast and will trigger any 'on cast' triggers when all of the steps of casting the spell are complete and it is on the stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h. Once the steps described in 601.2a-g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point it only matter what the spell currently is. The game does not look back to the steps of playing the spell to see what it was at various points during the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the steps required to cast a spell, detailed in 601. Casting Spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce (and place on stack) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose (modes) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target  How (to divide) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total (costs)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mana (abilities, activate) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay (costs)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastActivityDate="2014-10-07T15:29:28.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19244" CreationDate="2014-10-07T15:29:57.687" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's just one point to check at, once the spell is fully cast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In those words, the triggers happen when a spell &lt;em&gt;becomes cast&lt;/em&gt;. They don't look at the whole process, just that one moment, when everything is definitely okay (modes and targets chosen, all costs paid) and the spell is on the stack for good, with players about to get priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no complexity with spells that change as they're being cast, no complexity with weird things happening while you're paying costs. Just check when you're done!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T19:48:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T19:48:50.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19252" CreationDate="2014-10-08T03:10:39.123" Score="0" ViewCount="2640" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Radiant%20Fountain&quot;&gt;Radiant Fountain&lt;/a&gt; reads &amp;quot;{T}: Add {1} to your mana pool.&amp;quot; Does this card alone produce a total of {1} or {2}?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Land cards produce mana when tapped. So, either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All land cards produce mana when tapped, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Radiant%20Fountain&quot;&gt;Radiant Fountain&lt;/a&gt; adds another due to the {T} description, resulting in {2}.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The {T} description is the only result, there is no implicit mana from a land card, resulting in {1}.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8695" LastEditorUserId="8695" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T19:25:30.550" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T03:43:09.407" Title="How much mana does Radiant Fountain provide when tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-09T05:36:07.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19248" CreationDate="2014-10-08T06:16:17.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When tapped, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383355&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Radiant Fountain&lt;/a&gt; will add only one colorless mana to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player only has one mana pool which holds all mana produced for that player, whether from a land or an ability on a different card type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This effect is the same as the intrinsic ability of basic lands which add mana of a specific color to a player's mana pool. Tapping Radiant Fountain and a Forest would give you {1} and {G} mana in your mana pool giving you enough mana to play a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7533" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T19:21:15.987" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T19:21:15.987" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18019" CreationDate="2014-10-08T07:51:15.773" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, first off, lets establish the sequence of shooting in 7th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook the Shooting Sequence is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nominate Unit to shoot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a weapon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll to hit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll to wound&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allocate wounds and remove casualties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;select another weapon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, Jink states that it is used &lt;em&gt;&quot;when a unit with any models with the Jink special rule &lt;strong&gt;is selected as a target for a shooting attack&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Markerlights state that &lt;em&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;Immediately before a unit from Codex: Tau Empire shoots at a target&lt;/strong&gt; that has one or more markerlight counters, it can declare it is using one or more of the markerlight abilities listed below.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; (Codex Tau 6th Ed, pg 68)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, this suggests that the Markerlight abilities are declared between section 3 and 4, after the target and weapon are selected, but just prior to rolling to hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, the unit of jetbikes must choose whether they will Jink when they are selected as a Target in section 2 of the Shooting Sequence, and the Tau player does not need to declare what (if any) Markerlight abilities they are using until just prior to section 4 of the Shooting Sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, the Eldar player should declare the Jink when they are targetted, which is before the Tau must declare whether they will use their Markerlight counters or not.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastEditorUserId="5550" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T07:36:47.430" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T07:36:47.430" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19248" CreationDate="2014-10-08T14:38:20.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;{1}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will only get one colorless mana added to your mana pool when you tap &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Radiant%20Fountain&quot;&gt;Radiant Fountain&lt;/a&gt;. Lands do NOT have an automatic built-in ability, only lands with one of the basic land subtypes do. Radiant Fountain does not have one of these subtypes (Mountain, Forest, Plains, Island, or Swamp).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it did have one of these subtypes, you would still not be able to tap it for 2 mana. Say you have a Radiant Fountain and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%2C%20Tomb%20of%20Yawgmoth&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt; in play. Radiant Fountain now has 2 abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{T}: Add {1} to your mana pool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{T}: Add {B} to your mana pool&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, you have these 2 separate Tap abilities, but you can not tap once to get both mana. You would have to choose which ability you wanted to activate by tapping the card, and you would get just 1 mana whichever one you chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="8695" LastEditDate="2014-10-08T23:09:57.003" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T23:09:57.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18019" CreationDate="2014-10-08T15:18:42.130" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The shooting sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nominate Unit to shoot &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a target &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select a weapon &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll to hit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll to wound &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allocate wounds and remove casualties &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select another weapon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read the full text of Jink it says that the target MAY Jink before Markerlight usage is declared, but they don't have to declare until right before dice are rolled. This suggests that Jink must be declared after step 2 (can't Jink before you are targeted) but before step 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shooting at a target involves cycling through steps 3-7 until all weapons have been fired. That is to say, if you have 2 weapons, once you have fired one, you are already shooting at the target. Markerlights happen immediately before you shoot; so once you have fired one weapon, it is too late to use Markerlights in that shooting attack. Therefore Markerlights must be used before step 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2014-10-08T15:18:42.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19248" CreationDate="2014-10-09T03:43:09.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mana provided by default: no such thing.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as lands producing mana by default. They only produce mana according to the abilities given to them. It's entirely possible to have lands which generate no mana at all: consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Depths&quot;&gt;Dark Depths&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably now thinking &amp;quot;how do Islands work then? They have no abilities at all.&amp;quot; However, basic lands — Islands, Mountains, Plains, Swamps and Forests — all implicitly, &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; of having that basic land type, have an ability of the form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {color} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where {color} is blue, red, white, black or green depending on the type of land. So if a land is a Forest, &lt;em&gt;being&lt;/em&gt; a forest implicitly means it has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands of more than one basic land type, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steam%20Vents&quot;&gt;Steam Vents&lt;/a&gt; which is an Island Mountain, implicitly have this ability for each of their types, but you can only activate one. Hence the reminder text at the top of the card's description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;({T}: Add {U} or {R} to your mana pool.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really has these two abilities implicitly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {U} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {R} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But tapping a card doesn't mean activating all tap abilities on it. You pick an ability (just one), and tap it to pay the cost of that ability. When a card like this has two tap abilities, that limits you to only being able to activate one at a time. (Unless you can untap it somehow, such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kiora%27s%20Follower&quot;&gt;Kiora&amp;#39;s Follower&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Radiant fountain has no basic land types (it's not an Island, Forest, Plains, Swamp or Mountain). It has exactly one mana ability, which adds 1 colorless mana to your mana pool. That is the only mana it produces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T03:43:09.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15362" CreationDate="2014-10-09T08:51:11.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The permutations of the game makes it hard to come up with one specific strategy. Personally I like to &quot;dance around&quot; the X squares, trying to tease my opponent into placing his pieces there. But always remembering that it should cost him more than it should ever cost me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, your objective is to limit the number of liberties (that is, the number of moves) available to your opponent, while at the same time increasing yours. This is what is called the mobility strategy. When this objective is attained, one is said to have control of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, don't forget that you must force your opponent to make a bad move : it's not enough if he has even one non-disastrous choice at each move ; he must have no good moves at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T08:51:11.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-09T09:20:02.453" Score="0" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366233&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Predator's Rapport&lt;/a&gt;'s target has counters (for example, a few +1/+1 counters). Do the counters count when calculating the gained life? I thought power and toughness do not change after adding counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="8584" LastEditDate="2014-10-09T15:27:33.770" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T16:00:31.293" Title="Predator's Rapport and counters" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-10T15:19:13.770" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19256" CreationDate="2014-10-09T09:49:33.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;+1/+1 counters count for power and toughness. The power and toughness of a creature are modified by counters in Layer 7. You can also change the P/T with other spells, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;. Giant growth is also applied in Layer 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to explain in a few sentences, but more info about the layer system is explained in &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150916173223/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20091105a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-15T16:00:31.293" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T16:00:31.293" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="19258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19230" CreationDate="2014-10-09T10:08:13.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With most of the people I have played, both casual and competative, it is common to at least give your opponent what color you are playing.  However, it's not a rule.  For instance,  when i play with a group who knows my decks well, I usually don't tell them till they have also chosen a deck so that they can't choose a fitting counter deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8699" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T10:08:13.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19256" CreationDate="2014-10-09T15:06:17.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. When a card refers to any creature's power or toughness, it always means the creature's current power or toughness, not what is printed on the card. This includes any +1/+1, -1/-1 or other counters that modify power and toughness; any equipment or enchantments attached to the creature that modify power and/or toughness, and any effects from cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glorious%20Anthem&quot;&gt;Glorious Anthem&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bile%20Blight&quot;&gt;Bile Blight&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that damage on a creature does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; change its toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8584" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T15:06:17.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15362" CreationDate="2014-10-09T18:48:46.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It actually can be a bad move to avoid the X squares as long as possible. I've seen games where players so pointedly avoided them that the four corners were taken before the first X space was played. If that happens, especially on an already-dense board, the corners lose a lot of advantage because it can be impossible to &quot;&lt;em&gt;riposte&lt;/em&gt;&quot; and capture back any spaces taken by a play in the X square, because everything further along that line is already filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &quot;Never make this move&quot; is virtually never a good rule to follow. There's always a scenario, no matter how contrived, where it can not only be a good move, but a game-winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, &quot;avoid making this move&quot; is a good rule in this scenario, and therefore forcing your opponent to play it is also a good tactic. As far as &quot;how&quot;, the basic strategy is to make one or more of those Xs his only legal move at some point in the game. You do this by exploiting &quot;parity&quot;; make the move that is the best combination at the time of flipping as many discs as possible, while leading him to make the move that flips as &lt;em&gt;few&lt;/em&gt; as possible. The fewer spaces of his color, the fewer lines and therefore spaces he can play on. The trick is usually to time a big move that tips the board in your favor and takes away a bunch of moves for your opponent at just the right time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic mantra is, &quot;make the last possible move on the line&quot;. If you take the last space in any row, column or diagonal, any further moves to recapture spaces in that line have to be made in a different direction. That generally gives the corners a high value because they are the endpoint of the three longest lines on the board; however if the corner play is the &lt;em&gt;next-to-last&lt;/em&gt; move on a line, and you can still make the &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt; move, it's often of very little advantage for your opponent to take the corner at that time, and so giving it to him by playing an X square can actually work to your advantage by removing his ability to use that corner to re-establish an edge. For the same reason, if you already have an adjacent corner to the one you and your opponent are fighting for, the advantage to him of owning that corner is reduced and the advantage to you of owning it is increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will inevitably lead to a fight to avoid giving your opponent the first corner; once the first corner's taken by one color, it ends up a scramble to take the adjacent corners. The last corner's worth is often the least, as by the time it's taken the edges are typically very dense and taking it is unlikely to change very many spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T18:48:46.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-10-09T19:21:04.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hearts is a game of doing low-down, nasty things. Your opponents need to grow a skin (or a pair) and learn to turn the tables on you by &quot;hunting the bitch&quot;; instead of trying to void Diamonds or Clubs early as they're apparently trying to do, they should be leading low Spade after low Spade to force you to &quot;eat&quot; that Queen by following suit with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that becomes the group's formulaic play, the antidote to &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; is either to be long in Spades with the Queen and &quot;lead&quot; the hunt yourself to void everyone else in Spades, then lose the lead and play the Queen offsuit, or to not have the Queen at all, be long in Hearts and short (and low) in Spades, void Spades early and break Hearts during the hunt to punish the hunters for beating up on a woman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hand, and your group's strategy, determines your own:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have the Ace of Clubs, you shouldn't also have the 2 if you had any chance to get rid of both. Play the Ace on the first trick and you control the hand from there; you can start a Diamond or Club-voiding binge or a Spade hunt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't have the Ace of Clubs, play your highest one and hope the person immediately to your right doesn't have the Ace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The lead to the second trick usually determines the basic strategy of the hand unless someone has an unbalanced-enough hand to quickly say otherwise. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another Club typically results in someone voiding Clubs, so be wary of leading the third Club trick in the hand as you'll likely pay for it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diamonds are safer as the first hand didn't have them, so statistically speaking that tends to be another safe hand or two. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once a Spade is led it usually starts the hunt, and until at least three Spade tricks are played or Hearts are broken, attempting to stop it by winning one safely and leading low in Clubs or Diamonds will either get you flagged as the Queen-holder, or whomever does hold the Queen will have tried to void Clubs or Diamonds, and the odds of the QS being foisted off-suit become very high.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once Hearts are broken, the next trick is usually &quot;revenge&quot;; whomever won the first Heart will lead the lowest Heart they have, both to lose the trick and the lead, and make sure someone else gets 4 points (unless someone is void in Hearts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;From there, it all depends on who has the lead, whether that person's paid attention to what's been thrown, and what they might be able to do to lose the lead. Usually, someone ends up a little too long in one suit after the first few tricks, and if they win a trick it's pretty much over unless they managed to keep a few low cards in a second suit that hasn't been exhausted yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one house rule I forgot to mention; it is common in some locales that the Queen of Spades, like any penalty Heart, should not be played off-suit until Hearts have been broken (obviously it can and should be played to follow suit). Your group might be playing with this as an unwritten rule, so your sluffing the Queen early might be messing with their mojo as they feel you're playing a different game than they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this rule makes the Queen harder to lose, making the game more luck-based and scripted. If Hearts have to be broken to play it off-suit, then &quot;hunting the bitch&quot; is the natural next move for the two or three tricks after the initial Club trick, and your only defense is to be the longest in Spades. So, I don't use this rule, and neither do most computerized versions of the game. I do, however, count the Queen for the &quot;no bleeding Hearts&quot; rule, which states that a penalty card may not be played on the first trick unless the player only has penalty cards (which is an extremely rare situation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T14:45:29.563" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T14:45:29.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2014-10-09T21:09:58.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play sealed where you open 6 packs each and get to use as many basic lands as you want that are not included in the booster packs (about 17 is recommended) to create a 40 card deck.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/go/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/li/202&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/go/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/li/202&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8685" LastActivityDate="2014-10-09T21:09:58.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20282" CreationDate="2014-10-09T22:43:41.417" Score="3" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I owned Metagaming's Chitin I: The Harvest Wars (MicroGame 2) when I was a kid. I have a possibly flawed recollection that a larger bookshelf game using the Hymenoptera universe was released or possibly just planned. Does anyone know anything about it? I may also be confusing this with a similar game 3M or Avalon Hill game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8703" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T21:06:08.330" LastActivityDate="2019-09-16T02:09:51.587" Title="Was a larger version of Chitin I: The Harvest Wars ever released?" Tags="|chitin-1|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14776" CreationDate="2014-10-10T10:37:21.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my experience of playing the game I think they may have got something wrong in the camping down/press on phase of Dangers. That or they made a mistake when you fail a danger to do with cliffhangers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full rulebook is published on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/fortuneandglory/pdf%5CFANG_Rulebook_FINAL_WEB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flying Frog's website&lt;/a&gt; if you want to check while watching the episode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T10:37:21.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="19272" CreationDate="2014-10-10T15:15:45.643" Score="1" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about 4-4 high approach joseki. Everything is clear until move 4. I don't know how to respond if black plays C15 instead of the expected C17 (stone number 5). It leads to the following variation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iWVcL.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I think stone 4 is lost, unless white wants to play D17 which will lead to something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7gC2n.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now black can tenuki, the stone 8 is his, stones 5, 7, 15 are white's. Seems good for white. Is this the best white can play here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T22:31:53.977" Title="4-4 high approach joseki question" Tags="|go|joseki|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-10T19:56:02.873" Score="4" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a Duration Card in Dominion-Seaside, is that Duration Card your 1st action of your next turn or can you play a card from your hand 1st and then play the Duration Card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8709" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T22:23:41.933" Title="Duration cards in Dominion - Seaside - Are they your 1st action of your next turn?" Tags="|dominion-seaside|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2014-10-10T20:41:39.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effects of duration cards happen first. Only after resolving these effects can you begin to take actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T20:41:39.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2014-10-10T21:02:53.080" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the cards say &quot;at the start of your next turn&quot;. So you must obey the text literally; you do what it says &quot;at the start&quot;, which means before you do anything else. If you played multiple Duration cards last turn, so that you have multiple &quot;at the start of your next turn&quot; things to do, you choose the order in which to do them, though there are not any Duration cards for which that order would matter. However, this could matter with the promo card Prince.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple other things to clarify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You don't need to use up your 1 action per turn for the next-turn Duration benefit. You can still play your normal action after resolving the Duration.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Duration card is NOT played on your next turn. It will not count towards the number of cards played that turn, which can matter for Conspirator (from Intrigue). It will, however, count towards the number of action cards in play, which can matter for Peddler (from Prosperity).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-10-11T02:17:56.887" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T02:17:56.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19266" CreationDate="2014-10-10T21:32:54.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your shoes, I'd play e16 (atari), Black pulls out to d17, White, e17, threatening to capture two stones, Black c17, you f15 to &quot;capture&quot; the Black stone on f16. But that assumes that the top is the most important part of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, in fact, the left side is more important, the way you outline is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-10-10T21:42:03.367" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T21:42:03.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19266" CreationDate="2014-10-10T22:16:20.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never seen Black 5 in any joseki book, but I'm sure I've seen it in my games. Probably a typical amateur mistake :) However, I have no idea why it would be bad - it looks like a reasonable move to me, given the right circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will first comment on the sequence you gave, then I will show which alternatives I would consider, and finally I'll show a few sequences I made up. Forgive me for not including diagrams, instead please have a look at the eidogo diagram &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#133x9789h:0,0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Given sequence&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your sequence I see 3 problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 (B14) is a minor mistake and should be at B18 in sente to prevent white B18 in sente and give black better shape (F18 is a potentially damaging point after w exchanged B18 for D18).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 (C17) is a mistake and should be at C13 to jump out and save the 2 stones. Now white has poor shape because of the vital points at B18 and C18 and the very strong black shape at E16. White will probably get a miserable small corner life and black a very thick outside, so the 2 white stones at D15 cannot be moved out without becoming heavy, they should be considered lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 (D17) is a mistake. It forces black to become very solid and leaves an annoying cut at C16. It makes the situation difficult for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 8 looks like the first mistake, what else could w play? I would consider 3 options: C17, E16, or B16. Let's look at those three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;C17&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After C17, black can either continue pressing or jump out to deal with the corner later. If black presses, white will try to capture the 2 black stones, which can be quite tricky. It should end either ko or good for black. Either way black will get the top side and white the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black instead jumps out at C13, black will gain corner and left, white top thickness. Quite good for w in comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;E16&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white wants to force the top result, or if she feels fighty, she may also play E16 directly. After D17 E17, black should probably play the tesuji C18, white atari, black connect, white hane F15 for good shape. Again black sente, corner and left, white top thickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black might also play E15 after E17, which looks really complicated. I guess it will depend on the players' reading skills what happens next, I won't dare to try and analyze this mess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;B16&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, white might also just descend at B16. If black jumps out, white will probably play E16 atari and we end up with a similar shape as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, black should probably play B17 tesuji, forcing C17 D17 and either B18 or C18. Either way white is concealed in the corner and not alive yet, so black should have the advantage in the following fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Alternatives&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black may consider C14 instead of B15. That move is way above my level to comment on, but I'm sure you can see that it can lead to a complicated mess (not the first one we have seen today).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unusual move 5 seems possible. Result depends on the board and the fighting skills of the players, both black and white can chose between several routes to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T22:31:53.977" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T22:31:53.977" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2014-10-10T22:54:34.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not the first Action of your next turn. You are not playing the Duration card a second time. You played it last turn. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=441&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Duration cards are orange and have effects that continue past the end&#xA;  of the turn in which they were played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you check out the Duration play example in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=441&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (pages 5-6), it shows getting the effect from a Duration card you played last turn, followed by playing another card as the first Action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2014-10-10T22:54:34.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19274" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T12:26:49.820" Score="3" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am with a group that has been playing bridge for a little over 2 years.  We have one member who has, on occassion, layed her hand down towards the end and declared the rest of the tricks are hers.  More than once that has not been the case.  Either someone is holding a higher trump or she will not be able to get back to the board to win with her high card. When that happens, we just pick them up and play then out.  My question is whether or not there is a penalty for this and if so, what is it.  It has been suggested by one of our senior mentors that this is an insult resulting in a 50 point penalty, but that is just a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8712" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T11:48:34.843" Title="bridge penalties" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-15T05:04:50.393" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T12:38:18.753" Score="0" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing a game and have no white mana to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Stirrings&quot;&gt;Hive Stirrings&lt;/a&gt;, but I do have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sliver%20Hive&quot;&gt;Sliver Hive&lt;/a&gt; under my control. Am I able to tap the Sliver Hive to play Hive Stirrings (assume I have enough mana to play Hive Stirrings)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8714" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-11T14:50:20.737" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T14:42:39.880" Title="Can I tap Sliver Hive to pay for Hive Stirrings?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19276" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-11T12:47:55.687" Score="2" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bearer%20of%20Heavens&quot;&gt;Bearer of Heavens&lt;/a&gt; dies, it destroys all permanents. If my opponent's creature destroys Bearer of Heavens can he activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Legion%20Initiative&quot;&gt;Legion Initiative&lt;/a&gt;'s ability (to exile his creatures until the start of his next combat) before Bearer destroys all permanents? Or does Bearer's ability activate straight away on death?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8714" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-10-11T17:57:43.460" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T04:36:31.333" Title="Can Legion's Initiative save permanents from Bearer of Heavens's destruction ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="221" CreationDate="2014-10-11T13:19:20.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You Should place your flag in the corner and make a grid of bombs and fill that grid of bombs with 7s. 7s are the least useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8715" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T13:19:20.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19275" CreationDate="2014-10-11T13:29:37.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot use the coloured mana from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sliver%20Hive&quot;&gt;Sliver Hive&lt;/a&gt; to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Stirrings&quot;&gt;Hive Stirrings&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sliver%20hive&quot;&gt;Sliver hive&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add one mana of any color to your mana pool. Spend this mana only to cast a Sliver spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Stirrings&quot;&gt;Hive Stirrings&lt;/a&gt; is not a Sliver spell, it is only a Sorcery. This means you cannot use the coloured mana from Sliver hive to pay for the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use the mana from Sliver Hive to play Creature - Sliver spells, or to play tribal sliver spells. There aren't any tribal sliver spells I can see, but you could play a changeling one such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wings%20of%20Velis%20Vel&quot;&gt;Wings of Velis Vel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastEditorUserId="2933" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T14:42:39.880" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T14:42:39.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19276" CreationDate="2014-10-11T13:38:10.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bearer%20of%20the%20Heavens&quot;&gt;Bearer of the Heavens&lt;/a&gt; creates a delayed trigger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Bearer of the Heavens dies, destroy all permanents &lt;strong&gt;at the beginning of the next end step&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if, for example, the Bearer dies during combat, it simply goes to the graveyard and nothing happens yet. During the second main phase, your opponent can activate Legion's Initiative and exile his creatures. When your end step begins, the delayed trigger from Bearer of the Heavens goes on the stack and resolves, destroying all permanents that are in in play, which doesn't include the creature cards your opponent has exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, he could wait until the Bearer's trigger goes on the stack, then activate the ability of Legion's Initiative in response. Either way, the your opponent's creatures are exiled before the Bearer's ability resolves, and his creatures are saved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8716" LastEditorUserId="8584" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T04:36:31.333" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T04:36:31.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19274" CreationDate="2014-10-11T17:11:29.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably better off quoting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Laws-of-Contract-Bridge1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laws of Contract Bridge, 2014 Authorized Edition&lt;/a&gt; where Laws 68 through 71 deal with the proper handling of Claims and Concessions. Some pertinent aspects of the relevant rules are reproduced below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 68 - Declarer's Claim or Concession of Tricks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....  Declarer should not make a claim or concession if there is any doubt as to the number of tricks to be won or lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 69 - Procedure Following Declarer's Claim or Concession:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Declarer had made a claim or concession, play is temporarily suspended and declarer must place and leave his hand face up on the table and make a comprehensive statement as to his proposed plan of play, including the order in which he will play his remaining cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer's claim or concession is allowed, and the hand is scored accordingly, if both defenders agree to it. ...; otherwise, if either defender disputes declarer's claim or concession, it is not allowed. Then, play continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When his claim or concession is not allowed, declarer must play on, leaving his hand face up on the table. At any time either defender may face his hand for inspection by his partner, and declarer may not impose a penalty for any irregularity committed by any defender whose hand is so faced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difficulty with creating your own penalty, in lieu of the official one, is that it can be difficult to apply uniformly from session to session, or even claim to claim. &lt;em&gt;The Laws of Contract Bridge&lt;/em&gt; are an less formal statement than the &lt;em&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/em&gt; (for tournament play) and are designed for informal play by players who desire to play at a level beyond casual kitchen-style bridge. From your description this seems to be the atmosphere in which your group plays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T11:48:34.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19221" CreationDate="2014-10-11T17:36:57.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mid War card &lt;strong&gt;Lone Gunman*&lt;/strong&gt; has very similar text, but for the USSR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;US Player reveals his hand. Then the USSR may Conduct Operations as if they played a 1 Op card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make it more confusing, consider the Late War card &lt;strong&gt;Aldrich Ames Remix*&lt;/strong&gt;, which reads [emphasis added]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;US player exposes his hand to USSR &lt;em&gt;for remainder of turn&lt;/em&gt;. USSR then chooses one card from US hand; this card is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card is much more specific about the duration. This version of the card was first published with the deluxe edition, if the designers intended for the cards to operate the same, they could have made the text more similar.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given &lt;strong&gt;Aldrich Ames Remix*&lt;/strong&gt;, for both &lt;strong&gt;CIA Created*&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Lone Gunman*&lt;/strong&gt; the cards are only revealed briefly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/nnts/FAQv5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; confirms this. Under &lt;strong&gt;# 26 CIA Created&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. Does the USSR hand remain revealed for the entire turn? What happens if the USSR &#xA;  player gains new cards later in the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. The effect of the card is not ongoing. The USSR only needs to reveal his hand at the &#xA;  time the CIA CREATED card is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a subsequent question it goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This card and Lone Gunman (# 62) both work in the &#xA;  same manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T17:36:57.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20599" CreationDate="2014-10-11T18:14:11.617" Score="1" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked a similar &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/19163/3048&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; recently. However, i believe this question to be different since that question was in regard to &quot;incomplete&quot; ranks. This question is in regards to a rank that is completely removed from a rear attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legend: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Funit = friendly unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eunit = enemy unit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few scenarios here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;FunitA&lt;/code&gt; contains a unit of infantry and my general. They are attacking &lt;code&gt;EunitA&lt;/code&gt; in the front. &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt; is attacking &lt;code&gt;FunitA's&lt;/code&gt; left flank. My general is on the far right flank of &lt;code&gt;FunitA&lt;/code&gt;. The entire unit of &lt;code&gt;FunitA&lt;/code&gt; is killed except my general. &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt; is no longer in base contact with my general. What happens in this scenario? Does &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt; automatically move into base contact with my general or can they still attack even though they are no longer in base contact?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;FunitA&lt;/code&gt; contains a unit of infantry and my general. They are attacking &lt;code&gt;EunitA&lt;/code&gt; in the front. &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt; is attacking &lt;code&gt;FunitA's&lt;/code&gt; left flank. &lt;code&gt;FunitB&lt;/code&gt; is attacking the rear flank of &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;code&gt;FunitB&lt;/code&gt; kills the entire rear rank of &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt; and is no longer in base contact with any models from &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt;. What happens in this scenario? Does &lt;code&gt;FunitB&lt;/code&gt; automatically move into base contact with &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt; or do they attack across the gap even though they are not in base contact with any model of &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Same scenario of number 2. Except there is a &lt;code&gt;EunitC&lt;/code&gt; attacking the left flank of &lt;code&gt;FunitB&lt;/code&gt; at the same time. &lt;code&gt;FunitB&lt;/code&gt; kills all of &lt;code&gt;EunitB's&lt;/code&gt; rear rank and loses base contact with &lt;code&gt;EunitB&lt;/code&gt;. What happens now?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, and i know it is wordy. I tried my best to explain the scenarios. Let me know if you need clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T14:57:49.860" Title="Close combat after a rank is removed from an attack on any flank" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="19283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20291" CreationDate="2014-10-11T19:33:05.263" Score="2" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Belfort I find it confusing when turn order is changed.  Do you immediately swap turn markers during the placement phase?  Do the turns take effect immediately (still in the placement phase) or do you wait until the actions phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7546" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T00:56:07.887" Title="Changing player turn order" Tags="|belfort|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19263" CreationDate="2014-10-11T19:56:52.000" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my own research, it appears that a larger game based on the Hymenoptera universe was planned. There were a range of Chitin 25mm miniatures in the prototyping stage when Martian Metals was destroyed in a fire, pushing the release back. As Metagaming itself unfortunately went out of business a few years later, the larger game was never released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=99895&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://theminiaturespage.com/boards/msg.mv?id=99895&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8703" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T19:56:52.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20284" CreationDate="2014-10-11T20:56:11.753" Score="7" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, DEFCON is currently at 3.  Due to some trigger (event card, end of turn, etc.) it needs to move.  Can you confirm my understanding of the verbs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;INCREASE&lt;/strong&gt;: Move DEFCON to left to 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;IMPROVE&lt;/strong&gt;:  Move DEFCON to left to 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DECREASE&lt;/strong&gt;: Move DEFCON to right to 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;DEGRADE&lt;/strong&gt;:  Move DEFCON to right to 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LOWER&lt;/strong&gt;:    Move DEFCON to right to 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9717" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T21:46:51.780" Title="Can you confirm these DEFCON verbs for Twilight Struggle?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20283" CreationDate="2014-10-11T21:46:51.780" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got them straight.  The rule book uses all of those terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are pretty clear on improve, decrease, degrade, and lower:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4.5 A. &lt;em&gt;Improve&lt;/em&gt; DEFCON Status: If the DEFCON level is &lt;em&gt;lower&lt;/em&gt; than 5, add one to the DEFCON status (towards Peace).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6.3.4 Any Coup attempt in a Battleground country &lt;em&gt;degrade&lt;/em&gt;s the DEFCON status one level (towards Nuclear War).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8.1.1 DEFCON status measures nuclear tension in the game. The DEFCON level begins the game at its maximum ‘peace’ level of 5. It can go down and back up due to events and actions by the players, but if, at any point, it &lt;em&gt;decrease&lt;/em&gt;s to , the game ends immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Extended Playthrough uses increase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TURN 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(DEFCON &lt;em&gt;increase&lt;/em&gt;s to 3, Mil Ops requirements met by both players, no lost points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Emphasis added to rule citations]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-11T21:46:51.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20287" CreationDate="2014-10-12T03:11:09.497" Score="3" ViewCount="3448" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to make sure I understand this right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most cards, I can either choose the Event, or use the OPS Points in the top-left corner.  If I choose the Event, &lt;strong&gt;then the OPS points in the corner is irrelevant&lt;/strong&gt; to that specific card play (unless the Event tells me otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for the China Card, if I choose the Event, I actually &lt;strong&gt;do use&lt;/strong&gt; the 4 OPS points for that card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct?  I am under the impression that OPS Points are only relevant if I ignore the Event.  But the China Card was throwing me off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, I understand the concept that if I am holding a card that helps my enemy, and I choose to use the OPS points, the Event triggers anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9717" LastEditorUserId="9717" LastEditDate="2014-10-12T03:20:01.663" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T03:41:40.060" Title="Am I understanding the China Card right in Twilight Struggle?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20286" CreationDate="2014-10-12T03:41:40.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's correct. The China Card is only used for operation points. What's unique about the China Card is the operations value differs depending on where you decide to spend the points. If you spend all of the points inside Asia (and Southeast Asia) you can use 5 OP instead of the 4 printed on the card. If you use the card anywhere else, or in combination with Asia, you can spend 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional notes from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/living_rules/TS_Rules_Deluxe.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Deluxe Edition rulebook:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9.1 China’s role in the Cold War &#xA;  is abstracted through ‘The China &#xA;  Card’. Either player may play &#xA;  ‘The China Card’ as if it were part &#xA;  of his regular hand. ‘The China &#xA;  Card’ does not count towards the &#xA;  hand limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9.2 Every play of ‘The China &#xA;  Card’ counts as one of the Actions &#xA;  (6 or 7) that a player is permitted &#xA;  during a turn. As a result, players &#xA;  may have more cards left in their &#xA;  hand than usual, if ‘The China &#xA;  Card’ is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8424" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T03:41:40.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2568" CreationDate="2014-10-12T03:53:49.427" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a go at the straight in the freezer trick and it worked a treat. 2 weeks of being frozen, they like they had just come or of the box. I then put paper towel under and on top of them, before setting a mountain of cookbooks on top. They did perfectly (Smallworld lives again!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9719" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T03:53:49.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19268" CreationDate="2014-10-12T22:23:41.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All effects that say &quot;At the start of your [next] turn&quot; trigger before anything else you do. This includes Duration cards, Horse Traders (if revealed in reaction to an Attack) and Prince. However, if you have multiple of these effects triggering, you choose what order they take effect. Duration cards do not count as an action played that turn (which is important for Conspirator), but they do count as an Action card in play (which is important for Peddler).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-10-12T22:23:41.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20290" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-12T23:56:03.817" Score="8" ViewCount="3033" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game Forbidden Desert, players can be buried when there are too many sand counters on their location.  Tiles with more than one sand counter on them are considered blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Navigator can move any other player up to three spaces during his turn by spending one of his actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Climber can move through blocked tiles, and can bring one player with her as she moves.  Players on the same tile as the Climber, including the Climber, are never buried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that the Climber is on the same spot as two other players, the tile they're on has a gazillion sand tokens, the Navigator is on another spot in the board, and it's the Navigator's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Each matching pair of square brackets represents a tile, and the players on the tile are listed inside.  The letter in parentheses indicates the name of the tile (used only for naming purposes).  The number of &quot;SAND&quot; words in curly brackets indicates the number of sand tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[(A) Navigator] [(B) ] [(C) Climber, Archaeologist, Meteorologist {SAND, SAND, SAND}] ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the following combo be achieved for one action point from the Navigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Navigator uses up one action point to move another player, and chooses to move the Climber for up to three unblocked spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the first space, Navigator moves Climber from (C) to (B) (Right to left, i.e. &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==).  Climber brings the Archaeologist with her.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the second space, Navigator moves Cliimber from (B) to (C) (Left to right, i.e. ==&gt;&gt;).  Climber leaves the Archaelogist on tile (B).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the third space, Navigator moves Climber from (C) to (B) (Right to left, i.e. &amp;lt;&amp;lt;==).  Climber brings the Meteorologist with her.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For one action, Navigator has rescued all the people from the blocked tile using the Climber's person-carrying abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this combo legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9723" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T02:30:32.573" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T07:18:09.387" Title="Forbidden Desert: Valid Navigator and Climber combo to save two buried players for one action?" Tags="|forbidden-desert|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19283" CreationDate="2014-10-13T00:56:07.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The changing of player order is accomplished via use of the Kings Camp. During Placement phase, players can place a worker in the Kings Camp. The first player to play a worker in the Kings Camp puts the worker on the space with the &quot;1&quot; on it. The second player puts their worker on the space with a &quot;2&quot;. Each player may only place the maximum of 1 worker in the Kings Camp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution of player order then occurs in the next phase (as part of the Collection phase). The first player to place then gets to decide which player order they want to be. If they already control the number they wanted, they simply turn it over (to the gray side). Otherwise, they switch their crest with another player and then turn their crest over to the gray side. NOTE: the player whose crest was swapped remains with the colored side up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a second player had a worker in the Kings Camp, they now can swap with any player except the player who's crest has the colored side up (i.e. they can't claim the crest # from the player who went before them in the Kings Camp). This continues until all players in the Kings Camp have had an opportunity to act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the Collections phase ends, all players now turn their crests so that the colored side is facing up. Now the Action phase now begins. However the order of this phase is determined by the player order as shown on the crests. Thus the player with the crest #1 now acts first, taking all of their actions, followed by the player with crest #2, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This new player order will also be in effect during the placement phase of the next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T00:56:07.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20297" CreationDate="2014-10-13T01:06:52.033" Score="11" ViewCount="17039" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game, Dead of Winter, one of the players had their survivor pretty much camp out at the police station and search for weapons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He then equipped pretty much every single weapon he found to the same survivor, including weapons that were already equipped (i.e. 2 identical handguns etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seemed a bit overpowered, but I couldn't find any restriction on the number of items a survivor can equip. Has anyone come across any other ruling on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T09:30:56.893" Title="Are there any restrictions to the number of weapons a survivor can equip?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20293" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-13T01:11:21.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dead of Winter, by Plaid Hat Games, is a post-apoclyptic cooperative survival game. The players each control a group of survivers that are part of the same colony. They work together to achieve a main objective but also have secret personal objectives which may hinder the completion of the main objective. There is also the possiblity of a betrayer in the group which also adds a whole new dynamic to the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also introduces the 'Crossroads' mechanic, which gives players a hard moral decision to make which will impact the current state of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T06:57:32.243" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T06:57:32.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20294" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-13T01:11:21.920" Score="0" Body="Dead of Winter, by Plaid Hat Games, is a post-apoclyptic cooperative survival game. The players each control a group of survivers that are part of the same colony. They work together to achieve a main objective but also have secret personal objectives which may hinder the completion of the main objective. There is also the possiblity of a betrayer in the group which also adds a whole new dynamic to the game. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T06:57:24.443" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T06:57:24.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20295" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T05:22:50.477" Score="3" ViewCount="1626" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of a game I just played, there were 5 crystals on the table, and the geologist was locked up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone else in the group said the geologist didn't get the gold, but nowhere in the rules did it say they didn't get their gold when locked up at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the real rule? Does the geologist get their gold?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9725" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T22:26:04.550" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T22:26:04.550" Title="Does a Geologist get their gold if they're locked up?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20295" CreationDate="2014-10-13T09:16:50.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the answer lies in the description of the Trapped card (which is used to lock someone up). This comes from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/file/download/75t5b34xrr/Saboteur_2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rules of Saboteur2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play this card face-up in front of another player of your choice. This&#xA;  player is trapped and cannot play any more path cards. If a player is&#xA;  trapped when the round ends, they don‘t get counted as one of the&#xA;  winners and don‘t get a cut of the treasure&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Trapped card does not specify this status only applying to certain roles. So if a Geologist is trapped, that player would not get their gold. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9828315#9828315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post&lt;/a&gt; on a BGG forum for Saboteur 2 from Frederic Moyersoen, the game designer who states that a Trapped Geologist gets no treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastEditorUserId="8425" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T16:35:55.123" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T16:35:55.123" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20292" CreationDate="2014-10-13T09:30:56.893" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no limits to the number of weapons that a survivor can equip and the effects stack. This has been confirmed in the Dead of Winter Rules forum on BoardGameGeek by Jon Gilmour, one of the designers of Dead of Winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Click &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/16579575#16579575&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to read one of these threads (Jon Gilmour's responses are posted under the user name JonnyRotten). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A second thread reference can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1216317/can-you-equip-more-same-item-type&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T09:30:56.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19106" CreationDate="2014-10-13T09:36:15.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is something to be said for demanding a better quality suit for pre-empting in a minor in front of partner, only so that, with a good hand, partner is better judged to place the contract in 3NT. With a major partner is more likely to place the contract in 4 of your major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner has, say, Kx in your minor and enough outside, he might be able to rely on running your minor for tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this actually goes against your theory of needing less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are pre-empting in 3rd seat there is a case for being a lot more flexible, regardless of what your suit is. In particular, if you have a &quot;weak 2&quot; in a minor you cannot open at a level of 2 you might open it at a level of 3 non-vulnerable 3rd in hand and hope to get away with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T09:36:15.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20300" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-13T13:29:51.130" Score="4" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;If 5 players wins the game (2 green dwarfs, 1 blue dwarf, a Boss and a Profiteer), they only get 1 gold piece each. But the Boss gets 1 less, and the Profiteer gets 2 less. That means that they get no gold piece at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9726" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T22:22:54.407" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T22:22:54.407" Title="If too many players wins the game, can the Boss and Profiteer win no gold?" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20300" CreationDate="2014-10-13T16:38:24.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Part of the game is knowing when not to end the game. In the scenario you described, the Boss or the Profiteer must have ended the game (because it's the only way a Green and a Blue can both win with those characters). But that might not have been their best option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is the scoring possibilities for the party you presented:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;           There's   There's |         |          &#xA;  Game     a Blue    a Green | Winners | Nuggets    Green     Blue      Boss    Profiteer&#xA;  Ender     Path      Path   |         |          &#xA;--------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- --------- ---------&#xA;Green         Y         Y    |    4    |    2         2         0         1         0&#xA;Blue          Y         Y    |    3    |    3         0         3         2         1&#xA;Boss          Y         Y    |    5    |    1         1         1         0         0&#xA;Profiteer     Y         Y    |    5    |    1         1         1         0         0&#xA;Anyone        Y         N    |    3    |    3         0         3         2         1&#xA;Anyone        N         Y    |    4    |    2         2         0         1         0&#xA;Noone         N         N    |    1    |    5         0         0         0         3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most points, the Boss should have joined the Blue team (by blocking green or by enabling Blue to end) rather than ending the game. Joining Green would also grant some points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most points, the Profiteer should have sabotaged the miners rather than end the game. Helping Blue would also net some rewards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T17:02:07.210" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T17:02:07.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20305" CreationDate="2014-10-13T19:13:22.043" Score="13" ViewCount="32993" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many spells or abilities cause one or more creatures to join the battlefield (i.e. 1/1 white Soldier creature tokens, 3/3 green Beast creature tokens, etc.). These token cards are not included with the cards that require them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do MtG players use instead to represent token creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick search shows you can buy packs of such cards, but I'm wondering what convenient ways exist to represent these tokens without actually having to buy more cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T23:25:46.697" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:58:32.637" Title="What should be used to represent creature tokens when the printed token card isn't available?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2014-10-13T19:30:55.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I use cards that aren't in the current game, face-down. We put coins (1, 2 or 5 cents) on them depending on the power/toughness of the creature tokens (since most of the time, they have equal power and toughness).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8542" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-10-13T20:01:20.137" LastActivityDate="2014-10-13T20:01:20.137" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2014-10-13T20:53:05.840" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can cover what is legal and what is common, and you can hopefully determine what is &quot;convenient&quot;. The MTG Tournament Rules dictate that you clearly represent your board state. This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must be able to represent the tapped state of your token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must be able to differentiate types of tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tokens must not be in the same sleeves as the deck you are playing&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is under Section 3.8 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Policy&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] Sleeves or card backs that appear similar to any player’s sleeves or card backs may not be used as markers. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Notably, if you are playing without sleeves, you may not use an unsleeved Magic card as a token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see no reason to ignore these rules for casual play. They aren't very limiting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common legal method of representing a token, for those lacking the actual token card, is a plain face down card. &lt;em&gt;Any&lt;/em&gt; card. If you control multiple types of tokens, it must be clear to both players which cards represent which tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players use dice to represent tokens. Depending on what kind of dice you use, it can be difficult or impossible to tell whether a particular token is tapped or untapped. It's also unclear whether a &quot;2&quot; means &quot;two tokens&quot; or &quot;one 2/2 token&quot;. You can overcome this by using dice that don't have rotational symmetry and by communicating clearly. I still advise against it because there are easier, clearer options (my opinion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Representing a large number of tokens individually may not be feasible. In these cases, you can group tokens that have the same status using a single card with a numeric counter placed on top. Every token in the group must be identical. If some are tapped, or if some have summoning sickness, represent them as a separate group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2017-07-05T15:58:32.637" LastActivityDate="2017-07-05T15:58:32.637" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2014-10-14T00:43:51.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have my game/rules with me, but I don't think that is a legal combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the Climber can take someone with him, but that someone would have to go with him for his entire move (on that particular action). So he would not be able to pick up another player in the middle of his movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Climber were using his own actions, each tile is a new action so he can pick up or drop off as he chooses. but if using a single action given by the Navigator, I think all three tiles would have to include the same set of player tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the way I have played. I'll have to double check my rules to see if there is any clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And I assume &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1232367/navigator-moving-climber-i-know-its-not-answered-p&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is your question on boardgamegeek).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T00:43:51.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20309" CreationDate="2014-10-14T00:46:44.643" Score="5" ViewCount="1990" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is fairly simple question, but I'm unsure. Suppose I use enchant my basic land with an aura like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caustic%20Tar&quot;&gt;Caustic Tar&lt;/a&gt;. The enchantment's ability says to tap the land. Can I tap it immediately to use the ability, or do I have to wait till my next turn? I thought you could tap it, but my opponent didn't think it was valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9730" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T03:09:08.620" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T16:13:30.343" Title="Can I use an ability granted to a land by an aura immediately?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20307" CreationDate="2014-10-14T00:51:29.560" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can immediately activate the new ability by tapping the land. The enchantment gives the land a new ability, and that ability can be activated just like any of the land's other abilities. Of course, you can only do this if the land is untapped, like any other ability with a tap symbol in the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one exception is if the land is a creature and it just entered play that turn (for example, if it's a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt; or it was animated by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nissa%2C%20Worldwaker&quot;&gt;Nissa, Worldwaker&lt;/a&gt;). In that case, like any creature, it has summoning sickness and can't activate abilities with a tap symbol in the cost until your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T00:51:29.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20307" CreationDate="2014-10-14T00:51:40.137" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can immediately tap it to activate the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent was perhaps thinking of &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot;, which prevents creatures from attacking or using abilities that have the tap or untap symbol in their cost. But that only applies to creatures, not lands - just as you can tap your Swamp for mana the turn you play it, you can tap it for another ability immediately if it somehow gets one, like from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caustic%20Tar&quot;&gt;Caustic Tar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T16:13:30.343" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T16:13:30.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20314" CreationDate="2014-10-14T03:48:44.047" Score="2" ViewCount="4841" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Quagmire*&lt;/strong&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On next action round, US player must discard an Operations card worth 2 or more &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; roll 1-4 to cancel this event. Repeat each US player Action round until successful or no appropriate cards remain. If out of appropriate cards the US player may only play scoring cards until the next turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this can be used on AR 6 to discard an undesirable card with sufficient Ops on turn 7.  But what happens if you play it on turn 7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says &quot;on next action round&quot; at the beginning. Does that mean AR 1 on the next turn? Or does it go away at the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T09:40:59.467" Title="What happens if I play Quagmire/Bear Trap on myself on AR 7?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-14T04:19:53.013" Score="1" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Magic about six years ago, and I live in a very &quot;Intelligence Deficient&quot; Town. I have tried playing online and I Don't have a game shop nearby. Help me please??????&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9731" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T00:05:19.957" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T00:05:19.957" Title="How to find people to play Magic the gathering with?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-14T13:05:10.590" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20674" CreationDate="2014-10-14T09:21:57.307" Score="6" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;After playing some Mordheim games we decided with my friends to buy a Warhammer 40k battleforce and start playing Wh40k. I started reading all the codexes/forums but I feel a little overwhelmed with information. What I would like to sort out is &lt;strong&gt;which battleforce should I choose as a newbie&lt;/strong&gt;? My friends will buy &lt;em&gt;Dark Eldar&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Tau&lt;/em&gt; battleforces and we agreed that for start we all should buy one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ruled out a lot of factions since I don't like them and these are the remaining ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Imperial Guard (Catachan)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Necron&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Space Wolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dark Angels (Ravenwing or &lt;strong&gt;Dark Vengeance&lt;/strong&gt; pack?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grey Knights (maybe?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;I also like Tau but I don't want to play a Tau vs Tau game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to choose &lt;strong&gt;against&lt;/strong&gt; Tau and Dark Eldar but something which fits my playstyle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually like to play long ranged hard hitting units with little focus on melee (I know it is necessary but I like kiting tactics more). I also like units with troll (fun) factor. For example the Necron &lt;em&gt;Reanimation Protocol&lt;/em&gt; is one of them. I also do not like &lt;em&gt;horde-like&lt;/em&gt; factions like the Tyranids (and IG possibly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing changes I will buy Necron but I'm just not sure at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2019-08-26T04:05:15.363" Title="Which battleforce should I buy as a newbie player?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2019-08-27T15:52:04.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20310" CreationDate="2014-10-14T09:40:59.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quagmire/Bear Trap don't go away at the end of the turn !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;46&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. Does a Beartrap or Quagmire end when the turn ends or will it continue into the next&#xA;turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. The end of a turn will not end a Beartrap or Quagmire. Only the required die roll will&#xA;do so. Remember that neither card affects headline phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you play it in AR7 you will not play AR1 of the next turn (except you played it in TURN10), you just discard a card and try your luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7558" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T09:40:59.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18047" CreationDate="2014-10-14T10:01:29.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The chances of each player getting exactly one card of a set, be that set {2H, 3H, 4H, 5H} or {6D, 6C, 6H, 6S} is the same. However, 6 was just an example; the chance of each player having a card with the same value but a different suit is actually bigger then the lowest four Hearts being distributed like that. So the starting position is in favour of four cards of the same value being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But players don't choose cards at random. First of all, they have to follow suit if possible, so for &lt;em&gt;none&lt;/em&gt; of the players to be able to follow suit would mean that it's later in the game and the suit has been exhausted, or that the opening player has &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; cards of that suit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's just following the rules. But there's strategy and tactics to consider as well. Unless a player is trying to shoot the moon, they will typically play the lowest Hearts possible. So a player may play a 4H or 5H, hoping that one of the others will have to play a 6H or 7H at least. A player following suit with a 5H on a 4H may hope for the same. If the other players don't want the trick, the only thing they can do is follow with the 2H and the 3H, sticking the trick on the player with 5H.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no strategic or tactical advantage to following value instead of suit, so it really comes down to coincidence &amp;mdash; although I can imagine players following value just for fun, after the first two cards have been played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2016-12-25T18:02:54.853" LastActivityDate="2016-12-25T18:02:54.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20312" CreationDate="2014-10-14T11:33:50.597" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's illegal, but you can always play for free on cockatrice or mws (never tried mws). Look the link in mtgsalvation.com forum (im typing from mobile). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also play on mtgo, which is legal, but i think doesn't worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also ask your friends to play it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7720" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T11:33:50.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20318" CreationDate="2014-10-14T12:32:20.947" Score="3" ViewCount="4054" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a +1/+1 counter get's moved from one creature to another does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt; double the amount of counters that the second creature gets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4818" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2014-10-14T12:55:36.683" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T13:09:03.873" Title="Does Hardened Scales trigger when +1/+1 counter are moved from one permanent to another?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2023-06-21T02:55:55.860" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20317" CreationDate="2014-10-14T13:09:03.873" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Hardened Scales triggers off moving +1/+1 counters. From the official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.5. &lt;strong&gt;If an effect says to “move” a counter, it means to take that counter from the object it’s currently on and put it onto a second object.&lt;/strong&gt; If the first and second objects are the same object, nothing happens. If the first object has no counters, nothing happens; the second object doesn’t get a counter put on it. If the second object (or any possible second objects) is no longer in the correct zone when the effect would move the counter, nothing happens; a counter isn’t removed from the first object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Hardened Scales only triggers &lt;strong&gt;once&lt;/strong&gt; per batch of counters moved, so if several counters are moved at once, it will not double the amount, but only add 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T13:09:03.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20321" CreationDate="2014-10-14T17:11:17.877" Score="2" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once ran into a computer implementation of an old board game that seemed rather interesting, unfortunately I am unable to recall either. What I do remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Java (advertised support for linux)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hex tiles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recruit squads of magical beasts for combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;recent IOS (or Android) version, unrelated to the Java version&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;hex tiles arranged in concentric &quot;terrain&quot; zones, the goal being to reach the center&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;special (angelic/guardian) creatures with greater powers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two modes, one for recruiting and one for combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9735" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T02:28:14.453" Title="Looking for a board game" Tags="|identify-this-game|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2014-10-14T17:55:41.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds very much like &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/103/titan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titan&lt;/a&gt;. The Java version may be &lt;a href=&quot;http://colossus.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Colossus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2014-10-14T17:55:41.363" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20323" CreationDate="2014-10-14T23:58:26.130" Score="1" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Bang! expansion pack, there is a card known as &quot;The Sermon&quot; which reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Sermon:&lt;/strong&gt; BANG! cards cannot be used in player's turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems straight-forward enough, until I realized that Calamity Janet can use Bang! cards as Missed! and Missed! cards as Bang!s.  So, my question is: if Calamity Janet is in play, can she use a Missed! card as a Bang!, since it technically isn't the actual Bang! card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T00:42:43.830" Title="Bang! Calamity Janet and the High Noon Expansion" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20322" CreationDate="2014-10-15T00:42:43.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the creator of Bang! (Emiliano Sciarra) on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/36169&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Actually, during the Sermon you cannot use Bang! cards during your turn only: it is allowed to use Bang! cards outside your turn. It follows that if you play a Duel, your opponent may answer with his Bang! while you can not, and so you will lose the Duel!&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;As regards Calamity Janet, the general rule of thumb is that her Missed! cards are considered as if they were Bang! cards, so during the Sermon she cannot use Missed! cards as Bang! cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T00:42:43.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20320" CreationDate="2014-10-15T02:28:14.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/dripton/Slugathon/wiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Slugathon&lt;/a&gt; which unlike &lt;a href=&quot;http://colossus.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Colossus&lt;/a&gt; is still active, if sporadically so. Since incomplete, Slugathon currently lacks features and is buggy, slow. The server already provides a ranking system, and the AI seems stronger than that of Colossus. That said, despite its awful UI, Colossus is the better alternative for beginning players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone else, choosing is a toss-up. I haven't tested Colossus' server (requires a web account), so I don't know if it provides rankings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9735" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T02:28:14.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T03:18:10.467" Score="8" ViewCount="27324" Body="&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules of MTG state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b If a game that’s not using the limited range of influence option (including a two-player game) somehow enters a “loop” of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSporemound%5d&quot;&gt;Sporemound&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLife%20and%20Limb%5d&quot;&gt;Life and Limb&lt;/a&gt;, that creates an infinite combo. A land enters the field, which creates a 1/1 Saproling, which is also a land, which creates a 1/1 Saproling, etc. This cannot end, and according to the rules the game now ends in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have an unsummon, or destroy enchantment, or some other way to remove one of the cards creating this loop. Does this make the game not end in a draw? Can I allow the loop to continue through a million cycles, then destroy my enchantment to break the loop? Or does the game end anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for all the answers. So, if I have a way to bounce or destroy one of the pieces of an infinite loop, I can allow the loop to resolve as many times as I want, and the game isn't a draw. However, the rules for shortcuts (719) also say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;719.4. If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw. (See rules 104.4b and 104.4f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I draw anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope you guys don't mind, but I have a few more questions about loops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is the game considered a draw, as in how many times does a loop have to resolve to trigger the draw state? If I have an infinite loop that damages a player, but no way to remove a piece of the loop, is the game still a draw? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sanguine+bond&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=exquisite+blood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt;. It will kill all of my opponents, but it is only mandatory actions and I have no way to stop it. The rules also don't say anything about the game state changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks again for all the help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9738" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T14:34:35.750" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:35:15.467" Title="Will infinite loops still force a draw if I have a way to end them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20325" CreationDate="2014-10-15T03:41:29.663" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have 2 options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Propose a shortcut where you pass priority on the triggers, allowing Saprolings to be made. If your opponent agrees, you can specify the number of iterations, and then use something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bnaturalize%5d&quot;&gt;naturalize&lt;/a&gt; to destroy one of the enchantments, ending the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) You can let the loop proceed indefinitely, resulting in a draw. This is allowed by rule 719.5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;719.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your new questions:&#xA;Rule 719.4 applies in the situation where no one can interact with the loop, and all actions are mandatory (e.g., you can't set up a mandatory loop with 3x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFiend%20Hunter%5d&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; because the triggered ability is optional)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interaction between &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSanguine%20Bond%5d&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExquisite%20Blood%5d&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt; will cause a player to lose the game. This is because state-based actions are responsible for making a person lose when his or her life is 0 or less. State-based actions are checked before any player gets priority and before any triggered abilities are put on the stack, which means that they occur before effects like Sanguine Bond and Exquisite Blood can continue to loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T14:34:12.553" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:34:12.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20325" CreationDate="2014-10-15T04:59:27.970" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the rule includes the clause &quot;with no way to stop&quot;. The situation you describe includes a way to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The accepted way to handle this sort of thing in a paper game is just to say, &quot;I repeat this loop X times&quot; with the assumption that your opponent will either agree, or interrupt the combo. Then you can interrupt the combo yourself. Because they can't program this kind of shortcut into Magic: Online, decks like this are frequently (but not always) impractical because all the necessary clicking may lead to timeouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-level tournament decks have been built on concepts like this in the past. The shortcut described above works there, too; it's explicitly allowed to propose shortcuts of the form &quot;I do X until Y happens or you have a response&quot;, as described &lt;a href=&quot;http://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy#4546&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6587" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T04:59:27.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20328" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T06:05:36.423" Score="-2" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Standard Type 2 Cycling Rules applies for lands too? Those lands that generates two, three manas for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9740" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T14:02:36.030" Title="Does Standard Type 2 Rules applies for lands? MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-15T16:23:33.183" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20325" CreationDate="2014-10-15T06:48:08.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time the ability triggers, you gain priority. When you pass priority, your opponent gains priority. When they pass priority, the ability resolves, another token enters play, and the ability triggers again. Whenever you have priority, you have the opportunity to play a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNaturalize%5d&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; to destroy your enchantment. If you do so, the triggered ability currently on the stack will resolve, but since the enchantment is gone, the ability won't trigger again and the loop will end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you are not obligated to stop the loop. Rule 719.5 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you have a Naturalize in your hand, you can choose to end the loop after you have as many saprolings as you want, or you choose to let the game end in a draw, if that's better for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-04-06T14:35:15.467" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:35:15.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20336" CreationDate="2014-10-15T09:25:38.823" Score="4" ViewCount="4742" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%2C%20the%20Veil-Cursed&quot;&gt;Garruk, the Veil-Cursed&lt;/a&gt; (i.e. a transformed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%20Relentless&quot;&gt;Garruk Relentless&lt;/a&gt;). What happens when my Oblivion Ring gets destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation was that Garruk returns in his Veil-Cursed form, but dies with zero loyalty counters, since there is no reference to how many counters he has upon return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, am I correct assuming that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clever%20Impersonator&quot;&gt;Clever Impersonator&lt;/a&gt; is everything but clever when trying to impersonate Garruk, the Veil-Cursed (i.e. he dies due to zero loyalty counters)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T16:51:19.147" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:52:25.380" Title="What happens when a double-sided card is returned to the battlefield or a copy of it appears?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20330" CreationDate="2014-10-15T10:01:33.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will come back as the Garruk Relentless with 3 loyalty counters since it enters the battlefield as a new object. See comprehensive rules 110.6 and 110.6b&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.6. A permanent's status is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two possible values:&#xA;  tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, face up/face down, and phased&#xA;  in/phased out. Each permanent always has one of these values for each&#xA;  of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.6b Permanents enter the battlefield untapped, unflipped, face up, and phased in unless a spell or ability says otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T10:01:33.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-15T13:43:12.403" Score="0" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and a friend were playing magic, and I cast the enchantment &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feast%20on%20the%20Fallen&quot;&gt;Feast on the Fallen&lt;/a&gt;, I dealt 3 damage with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jagwasp%20Swarm&quot;&gt;Jagwasp Swarm&lt;/a&gt;. Then at the beginning of his upkeep I put 2 +1/+1 counters on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodcrazed%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Bloodcrazed Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; saying its heroic ability allows it to get a second counter because it's being target by a spell that I control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T13:59:13.483" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T13:59:13.483" Title="What happens when I use Feast on the Fallen on Bloodcrazed Hoplite?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-10-15T14:58:14.490" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20328" CreationDate="2014-10-15T14:02:36.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no rule that says nonbasic lands aren't affected by format restrictions, so yes. Lands can and do rotate out of standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T14:02:36.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20330" CreationDate="2014-10-15T14:10:52.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation was that Garruk returns in his Veil-Cursed form, but dies with zero loyalty counters, since there is no reference to how many counters he has upon return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Transform cards always enter the battlefield &amp;quot;sunny side up&amp;quot; unless an effect says otherwise (see &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loyal%20Cathar&quot;&gt;Loyal Cathar&lt;/a&gt;). When Garruk re-enters the battlefield, he will be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%20Relentless&quot;&gt;Garruk Relentless&lt;/a&gt;, with 3 loyalty counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, am I correct assuming that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clever%20Impersonator&quot;&gt;Clever Impersonator&lt;/a&gt; is everything but clever when trying to impersonate Garruk, the Veil-Cursed (ie he dies due to zero loyalty counters)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. When a copy effect copies a transformed card, only the currently displayed face is copied (and the clone/token cannot transform). Clever Impersonator will be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%2C%20the%20Veil-Cursed&quot;&gt;Garruk, the Veil-Cursed&lt;/a&gt;, however it will enter with zero loyalty counters and be moved to the graveyard the next time state-based actions are checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T14:10:52.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20330" CreationDate="2014-10-15T16:23:21.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;These two situations actually have two different outcomes. In the case where the Oblivion Ring that removed Garruk leaves the battlefield, he re-enters with his front face (Garruk Relentless) face up, with 3 loyalty counters. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Double-faced_cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 711.6&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A double-faced card enters the battlefield with its front face up unless a spell or ability puts it onto the battlefield &amp;quot;transformed,&amp;quot; in which case it enters the battlefield with its back face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it re-enters from exile, it is a new object with no memory of its previous existence (see rule 400.7). Oblivion Ring doesn't say that it should enter transformed, so it enters with its front face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you copy Garruk, Veil Cursed, the copy will enter as a Garruk, Veil Cursed, and because it has no default loyalty, it will in fact enter with 0 loyalty counters and die the next time state based actions are checked. Rule 711.3 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Except for determining whether or not a permanent can transform, a spell, ability, or rule that needs information about a double-faced permanent sees only the information given by the face that's currently up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A Clone enters the battlefield as a copy of Wildblood Pack (the back face of a double-faced card). The Clone will be a copy of Wildblood Pack. Because the Clone is itself not a double-faced card, it can't transform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation described in that example is exactly the same as the one you are asking about: if you copy a transforming card, you copy the information that is currently face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T16:52:25.380" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20339" CreationDate="2014-10-15T16:28:14.877" Score="4" ViewCount="11665" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A and Player B are both fairly well-off and developed players. A, however, does not have much cash on hand. A lands on B's developed property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He has to sell some of his buildings to pay the debt. On one of his monopolies, he has hotels. Can he sell the hotel for the price of five houses immediately? Or can he only get the equivalent price of one house by selling &quot;all the hotels...at once&quot;? What does &quot;one at a time&quot; mean in the official rule book — that he would have to wait over five turns to sell the whole thing, and therefore cannot do this? Suppose he has several houses on each property of another of his monopolies — can he only sell one, or can he sell all of them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After A mortgages his properties, can he then turn the properties over to his creditor to pay the debt? I have always been under the impression that property could be handed over to the creditor in order to pay debts, at the cash value of the purchase price — and since the rule book says trades are fair game, I suppose a debtor and creditor could agree to trade property for cash that is immediately returned to the creditor, but I'm not sure.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9743" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T01:40:45.837" Title="How does selling buildings and bankruptcy work in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20338" CreationDate="2014-10-15T17:51:43.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House and hotels may be sold back to the Bank at any time for one-half the price paid for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All houses on one color-group must be sold one by one, evenly, in reverse of the manner in which they were erected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All hotels on one color-group may be sold at once, or they may be sold one house at a time (one hotel equals five houses), evenly, in reverse of the manner in which they were erected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What one by one here means is that you cannot sell a house from 1 property in a color group if another property in that color group already has more houses. You must sell evenly, just like you must build evenly. You can sell a hotel completely for the price of half of 5 houses, but you can't leave hotels on the other properties in the color group if you do that; they would need to be sold down to at most 1 house each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A mortgaged property can be traded just like an unmortgaged property can, but that's up to the creditor to agree to that. The debtor cannot automatically use the mortgaged property instead of cash to pay rent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T01:40:45.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20343" CreationDate="2014-10-15T20:09:20.700" Score="2" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Courser%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; is on the battlefield and I resolve a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dig%20Through%20Time&quot;&gt;Dig Through Time&lt;/a&gt;, do I reveal the top card of my library AFTER I pick two cards from the seven I get to look at, or does the top card become revealed while I am looking at my seven cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9745" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-15T20:25:27.860" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T20:29:03.597" Title="How does Dig Through Time work with Courser of Kruphix?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20341" CreationDate="2014-10-15T20:29:03.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new top card is only revealed &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you are done resolving Dig Through Time and the two cards are in your hand. This is because the cards you are looking at still count as being in your library while you are looking at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T20:29:03.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20313" CreationDate="2014-10-15T20:58:04.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aside from Tau, not much can beat Eldar for shooting. That said, you can do the ranged game with both Chaos Space Marines (be prepared to lose a lot, especially against Tau) and Tyranids pretty well, especially if you build models with that in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing Taudar (aka Tau &amp;amp; Eldar allies) is another option. It's not as busted as it was in 6th edition, but it can still be quite effective, especially in a lighter atmosphere (like it sounds like you and your friends will be playing in.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2014-10-15T20:58:04.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20346" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T01:00:51.590" Score="3" ViewCount="2779" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing bridge you were supposed to lead from the dummy's hand, but you pulled a card from your hand by mistake. After putting it back in your hand, do you have to play the same suit when you play from the dummy hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9749" LastEditorUserId="1246" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T13:17:21.590" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T13:23:40.400" Title="Leading from the wrong (nondummy) hand in bridge" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20346" CreationDate="2014-10-16T02:19:45.127" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Laws-of-Contract-Bridge1.pdf&quot;&gt;Laws of Contract Bridge - 2014&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 55 - Declarer's Lead Out of Turn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When declarer leads out of turn from his or dummy's hand:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A either defender, without consultation, may accept that lead as provided in Law 53; or&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  B. either defender, without consultation, may require declarer to retract that lead. Then,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   1. if it was a defender' turn to lead, declarer restores the card led in error to his or dummy's hand without penalty.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   2. if declarer has led from the wrong hand when it was his turn to lead from his or dummy's hand, he withdraws the card led in error and he must lead a card from the correct hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If declarer adopts a line of play that could have been based on information obtained through his infraction, the offenders should adjust the score to redress the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in direct answer to your question, and assuming no inappropriate information was obtained by declarer through the infraction, once a defender requires declarer to retract the card led in error declarer restores it without penalty and leads (any card of his choice) from the correct hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a club (other than a Duplicate Club) a slightly more formal alternative law may apply using the services of a pre-appointed &lt;em&gt;Arbiter&lt;/em&gt;, if such is available. I understand from your description that this is not the case fr your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T02:19:45.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2014-10-16T04:57:07.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Printer Studio is a good source. they have file downloads onsite edition and previews for the whole deck before you order. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printerstudio.com/unique-ideas/blank-playing-cards.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.printerstudio.com/unique-ideas/blank-playing-cards.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9750" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T04:57:07.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20349" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T06:25:10.380" Score="2" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Republic of Rome several (4?) times with a group (usually 4-5 players) without studying the rules myself. We have always started in the Early Republic period, and even when we try to cooperate just to survive the period, we have always lost, generally to an onslaught of wars, often more than one per turn. We always end up facing at least one Punic War and usually four or more in total, and get overwhelmed by one thing or another as a result. The others have played it many more times than I have with them, and they say they have NEVER made it out of the Republic period, due to losing one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we playing the game wrong? I think the main cause is overwhelming random events, specifically accumulating wars. Each game turn, each player draws at least one random event card, and this can and in our games has often resulted in one or more new war about every turn. Does the game have a rule we are missing that at least limits the number of random wars entering play to one per turn at most?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from a historical perspective, it seems like the time scale must be abstract and a bit off. It feels like each game turn is a year, but then obviously there were never new wars coming up every year historically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9751" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T08:52:32.687" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T17:01:50.503" Title="Does Republic of Rome usually generate one or more wars per turn, leading to a loss even when cooperating?" Tags="|mechanics|balance|republic-of-rome|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20423" CreationDate="2014-10-16T16:21:49.467" Score="8" ViewCount="6055" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is there a limit to how many buildings can built by each player? I was the builder lady lord, using the Undermountain Expansion, and would have been about to build 12+ buildings, but game rules limit each player to 9. What is the reason for this limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7546" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-06-19T09:58:56.400" LastActivityDate="2021-06-19T09:58:56.400" Title="Building Limit in Lords of Waterdeep" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20363" CreationDate="2014-10-16T16:28:25.143" Score="2" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mid war card &lt;strong&gt;South African Unrest&lt;/strong&gt; seemed perfectly clear to me, until I read the Twilight Strategy article on it. How, exactly, can the event be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;South African Unrest&lt;/strong&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;USSR either adds 2 Influence in South Africa or adds 1 influence in South Africa and 2 Influence in any countries adjacent to South Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion comes in from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://twilightstrategy.com/2012/10/16/south-african-unrest/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Twilight Strategy article&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Despite a possible interpretation of the event’s text otherwise, you cannot use this for 1 in Angola and 1 in Botswana: it has to be 1 in South Africa plus 2 in Angola or 2 in Botswana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to reading Twilight Strategy I thought the following 4 options could be played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place 2 Influence in South Africa.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place 1 Influence in South Africa, and 2 Influence in Angola.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place 1 Influence in South Africa, and 2 Influence in Botswana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place 1 Influence in South Africa, 1 Influence in Angola, and 1 Influence in Botswana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the Twilight Strategy note is saying that #4 is out. Is that right? If that was so, shouldn't the card read &quot;In any &lt;em&gt;one country&lt;/em&gt; adjacent to South Africa&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T15:31:00.353" Title="South African Unrest clarification" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20349" CreationDate="2014-10-16T17:01:50.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You really do need to read the rules, more thoroughly than it sounds as if the rest of the group has done. If you do, you will find that RoR is not a common-or-garden multiplayer game where an ally is somebody you have no reason to attack at present; it is designed so that the players all have to genuinely co-operate to keep the state going, and the winner is the one who can use each successive crisis to best advantage. The designer's notes say &quot;I designed it for those who find Diplomacy too tame&quot;, and you need to be a born politician to find the game easy. But the notes also include a page or two of suggestions, and here are one or two of my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The object of the game is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to preserve the Republic; it is to have yourself declared Emperor (or some near-equivalent). One of my favourite winning conditions is being in rebellion when the state goes bankrupt; presumably the Ancient World Bank then puts you in charge of rebuilding, Monti-style.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Early Republic scenario is well-known to be the hardest to survive; if you don't like it, try the Middle or Late Republic scenarios, or even the optional one where you shuffle all the cards together and use the top fifty or whatever. But bear in mind the reason (mentioned in the rulebook) that not every year is represented by a turn: a year when nothing happens is a year when nobody has a chance to affect the game. If you are not versed in the subtle politics going on around you, a game without wars is going to seem quite dull - until someone else suddenly wins. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are precisely six random events each turn, and a lot of possible wars. When you include the enemy leaders then yes, you are going to have to do a lot of fighting; at least one war a turn. You can't afford to say &quot;I'm not voting to give that general a chance to shine&quot;, or &quot;I'm not contributing to the treasury unless everybody does&quot;; rebuild the army, and send it out to fight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Setting the terms of the debate is a huge advantage: if the HRAO (think President) has done his job, you have an unpalatable choice between everybody losing and making someone else's victory easier. But of course you may be HRAO yourself next turn...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You need to think quite seriously whether you would rather have somebody else win or everybody lose (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/163/1644&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;). Of course, if you are winning, you need to consider that the other players are also thinking this, and won't give you an easy ride. A lot of Early Republic games end in one climactic battle; if the army loses, the state collapses, and if it wins, the general has enough prestige to win the game. But he might be killed while winning the victory, which would give others a chance, so it's worth voting to send him out; now, how many legions do we send to maximise the odds? Unless you think this way every turn, you won't be a good RoR player; be consoled by the fact that you are probably a nicer person for it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T17:01:50.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20355" CreationDate="2014-10-16T17:53:10.987" Score="2" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Magic for about six months and thought I had a decent handle on how things work until I ran into the following problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Set-up:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I was playing mono black devotion against blue-green control. I bestowed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20Torment&quot;&gt;Herald of Torment&lt;/a&gt; onto &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pharika%20Chosen&quot;&gt;Pharika Chosen&lt;/a&gt;. At the end of my turn, my opponent (in control of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prophet%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt;) flashed in a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Siren%20of%20the%20Fanged%20Coast&quot;&gt;Siren of the Fanged Coast&lt;/a&gt;. I chose not to pay the tribute, so my opponent took my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pharika%20Chosen&quot;&gt;Pharika Chosen&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20Torment&quot;&gt;Herald of Torment&lt;/a&gt; attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If I kill &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pharika%20Chosen&quot;&gt;Pharika Chosen&lt;/a&gt; while my opponent controls it, when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20Torment&quot;&gt;Herald of Torment&lt;/a&gt; becomes a creature again do I regain control of Herald of Torment, or does my opponent retain possession of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9756" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:45:13.333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:45:13.333" Title="Losing Control of Bestowed Enchantment Creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-10-17T15:21:56.663" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20354" CreationDate="2014-10-16T17:56:17.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent never had control of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Herald%20of%20Torment&quot;&gt;Herald of Torment&lt;/a&gt;. When he took your creature, he only took the creature; he did not take control of any auras (or equipment) attached to it. So in this case, he would have control of a creature that has an aura that you control on it. This means that the creature would have +3/+3 and flying like usual; and YOU would lose 1 life per turn, not him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when the Bestow falls off and becomes a creature, it will be a creature under your control. It always was under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T17:56:17.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20357" CreationDate="2014-10-16T21:28:39.017" Score="0" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=t%3Alicid&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Licid&lt;/a&gt;, created a copy of that Licid, and attached it to a creature, would I still have to exile it during my end step even though it's now an enchantment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-10-16T21:49:07.423" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:49:07.423" Title="Mimic Vat and Exiling" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20356" CreationDate="2014-10-16T21:48:06.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  The relevant part of Mimic Vat's text reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of the exiled card. It gains haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text clearly tells you to exile the token that the Vat created regardless of whether it's a creature or not.  If a Licid token becomes an enchantment, it is still the same object and thus still the same token, and so the Vat's delayed triggered ability will still find it and exile it at the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T21:48:06.750" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20358" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:36:07.520" Score="3" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read the Codex (6th) entry for the XV8 Crisis Team and it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any Crisis Shas'ui may take up to three items from the Ranged Weapons&#xA;  and/ or Support Systems lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see only one list of &lt;strong&gt;Ranged Weapons&lt;/strong&gt; in the codex (the one which lists all ranged weapons) so it seems that I can put any weapon on them. Is my interpretation of the rule wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1735" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T23:00:52.937" Title="Can I put any ranged weapon on a Crisis Battlesuit?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20313" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:39:35.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this comes down to how you build the armies. Many armies &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do &quot;long ranged hard hitting units with little focus on melee&quot;, but not all armies are good at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most Space Marines (Space Wolves and Dark Angels) and Necron armies will be doing a lot at 24&quot;, since most of their army has that range. They can both be quite potent at this range. They are both not bad at melee, and can still get stuck in if need be (with Space Wolves being pretty good at melee).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not totally up on the new Grey Knights codex, but I presume they will still be about the same as marines, and be more mid-range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Astra Militarum (Imperial Guard) are probably the longest range option, at least if you go mechanised. Between Leman Russ, Chimeras and Heavy Weapon teams (all three of which are in the Catachan battleforce I believe) you will be able to just sit back and fire away, with the footsloggers there to engage at mid range as the enemy close. Guard really do not want to get into melee unless you are designing the unit for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as mentioned, Tau and Eldar are better at long range then any of your options, so you may be in for some pain against that Tau player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T22:39:35.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20358" CreationDate="2014-10-16T22:45:55.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Army List entry would be referring to the &lt;em&gt;&quot;Tau Empire Wargear List&quot;&lt;/em&gt; on pg 95.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This lists 5 sections: Ranged Weapons, Signature Systems, Drones, Support Systems and Vehicle battle Systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they could take up to 3 items from the Ranged Weapons and/or Support Systems lists on this page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5550" LastActivityDate="2014-10-16T22:45:55.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20369" CreationDate="2014-10-16T23:49:52.840" Score="4" ViewCount="3850" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found out about a rule where if one marble is 2 spaces away from another, and the next 3 spaces after it are unoccupied, you can jump 3 spaces? So if your marble is in one on the board, and there's another marble, and there are 2 spaces in between, you can jump past it, so there are now 2 in between you, but you are on the other side of the jumped marble? Could anybody point me to an official source of rules to validate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QLjnf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chinese checkers board showing original marble positions&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After both players have performed the three jump move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8EBf6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Chinese checkers board showing marble position, after both players have performed the 3 space jump&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8530" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T10:51:44.500" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T10:51:44.500" Title="Unusual Chinese Checkers jump that moves three spaces?" Tags="|variants|chinese-checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21384" CreationDate="2014-10-17T00:08:49.220" Score="7" ViewCount="9541" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not a Checkers variant, nor did it originate in China, how could this name possibly make sense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8530" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T01:16:58.613" LastActivityDate="2017-04-23T14:54:25.683" Title="Why is it called &quot;Chinese Checkers&quot;?" Tags="|history|chinese-checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20352" CreationDate="2014-10-17T00:10:29.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text on this card was changed from the second edition to the Deluxe Edition, altering &lt;em&gt;any country&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;any countries&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/nnts/FAQv5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From the Official FAQs:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;#53 South African Unrest&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note the Deluxe Edition card text allows the option of 2 Influence in &quot;...any countries &#xA;  adjacent to South Africa.&quot; effectively allowing one each in Angola and Botswana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows the 2 influence to be placed either in Angola or Botswana or split between both countries, getting one each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8424" LastEditorUserId="8424" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T15:31:00.353" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T15:31:00.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20365" CreationDate="2014-10-17T05:52:34.793" Score="2" ViewCount="6656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if -1/-1 counters are considered damage? On creatures with the wither ability is says that the creature deals damage in the form of -1/-1 counters. As such I would like to know if a creatures wither-ability would trigger ex: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rite%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Rite of Passage&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T06:16:11.613" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T06:01:46.097" Title="Do -1/-1 counters count as damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20364" CreationDate="2014-10-17T06:15:26.433" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, -1/-1 counters do not count as damage. However, in the case where an ability (such as Wither or Infect) says that damage is dealt &lt;em&gt;in the form of&lt;/em&gt; -1/-1 counters, it does count as damage. When a creature with one of those abilities deals damage to another creature, it still counts as dealing damage to the other creature, but instead of marking damage, you put that many -1/-1 counters on the other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that damage dealt by a creature with Wither or Infect would trigger Rite of Passage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T06:15:26.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T10:48:31.837" Score="3" ViewCount="5201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I am playing with a creature that has double strike (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Two-Headed%20Cerberus&quot;&gt;Two-Headed Cerberus&lt;/a&gt;), and I cipher &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hidden%20Strings&quot;&gt;Hidden Strings&lt;/a&gt; to it. This allows me to tap/untap up to 2 target permanents whenever the creature deals combat damage to a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my creature then attacked a player and wasn't blocked, and he took the double strike damage, would I then be able to tap/untap 2 target permanents twice? In effect tap/untap 4 target permanents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking this because my friends and I play with a few different ciphers and have had arguments about this a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8714" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T17:07:50.557" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T17:07:50.557" Title="Will double strike trigger cipher twice?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20366" CreationDate="2014-10-17T12:26:05.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cipher triggers whenever the encoded creature deals combat damage to a player. An unblocked creature with double strike will deal combat damage to the player twice; once in the &quot;first strike&quot; combat damage step, and again in the regular combat damage step. As a result, if an encoded creature with double strike is not blocked, you &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; be able to cast the encoded card twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T12:26:05.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T14:15:52.060" Score="0" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanna know if the effect in defense of the monster &quot;Morphtronic Cameran&quot; negate only effect of other monster or also trap and spell ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9760" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T00:10:29.203" Title="Does Morphtronic Cameran defense effect negate trap and spell?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20361" CreationDate="2014-10-17T14:37:03.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_checkers#Fast-paced_or_Super_Chinese_checkers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;fast-paced&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Super Chinese checkers&lt;/em&gt; variant&lt;/a&gt; described in Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the standard rules allow hopping over only a single adjacent occupied position at a time (as in checkers), this version of the game allows pieces to catapult over multiple adjacent occupied positions in a line when hopping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;fast-paced&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Super Chinese checkers&lt;/em&gt; variant popular in France, a piece may hop over a &lt;em&gt;non-adjacent&lt;/em&gt; piece. A hop consists of jumping over a distant piece (friendly or enemy) to a symmetrical position on the opposite side, in the same line of direction. (For example, if there are two empty positions between the jumping piece and the piece being jumped, the jumping piece lands leaving exactly two empty positions immediately beyond the jumped piece.) As in the standard rules, a jumping move may consist of any number of a chain of hops. (When making a chain of hops, a piece is usually allowed to enter an empty corner, as long as it hops out again before the move is completed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jumping over two or more pieces in a hop is not allowed. Therefore, in this variant even more than in the standard version, it is sometimes strategically important to keep one's pieces bunched in order to prevent a long opposing hop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative variant allows hops over &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; symmetrical arrangement, including pairs of pieces, pieces separated by empty positions, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T14:37:03.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-17T15:00:44.487" Score="2" ViewCount="33176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I control Genesis Hydra, then an opponent casts Claustrophobia onto Genesis Hydra, do I control Claustrophobia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8651" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T18:54:42.120" Title="Whenever someone casts an enchant on one of my creatures, do I control that enchantment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-10-17T21:01:42.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20364" CreationDate="2014-10-17T15:03:23.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dealing damage causes many different results. The following are the most common results of the damage (but it's not exhaustive):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The loss of life (by the defending player).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The addition of poison counters counters (on the defending player).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The addition of marked damage (on the defending creature).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The addition of -1/-1 counters (on the defending creature).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The loss of loyalty counters (by the &amp;quot;defending&amp;quot; Planeswalker).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gain of life (by the attacking creature's controller).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter the result of damage, it's still damage being dealt, so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rite%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Rite of Passage&lt;/a&gt;'s ability will trigger for a creature with Wither dealing damage to another creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while dealing damage can place -1/-1 counters on a creature, putting -1/-1 counters on a creature isn't damage in of itself. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Choking%20Fumes&quot;&gt;Choking Fumes&lt;/a&gt;'s effect does not trigger Rite of Passage's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T06:01:46.097" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T06:01:46.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20370" CreationDate="2014-10-17T15:25:40.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will not control Claustrophobia. As with all permanents, Auras come into play under the control of the person who cast the spell that became the permanent. It doesn't matter who controls the permanent that the Aura is enchanting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A permanent’s controller is whoever put it into play unless the spell or ability that put the permanent into play states otherwise. Other effects can later change a permanent’s controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T15:25:40.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20370" CreationDate="2014-10-17T15:25:48.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't control Claustrophobia. Permanents enter the battlefield under the control of the controller of the spell, unless something else is explicitly stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For permanent spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.3. If the object that’s resolving is a permanent spell, its resolution involves a single step (unless it’s an Aura). The spell&#xA;  card becomes a permanent and is put onto the battlefield under the&#xA;  control of the spell’s controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For other spells or abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.2a If an effect instructs a player to put an object onto the battlefield, that object enters the battlefield under that player’s&#xA;  control unless the effect states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T15:31:20.710" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T15:31:20.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20364" CreationDate="2014-10-17T16:45:20.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, -1/-1 counters do not themselves count as damage. You can think of them as an &lt;em&gt;effect&lt;/em&gt; of damage, when the source dealing the damage has wither (or infect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, damage dealt to something in the game has an effect that depends on what it is being dealt to. These are the normal effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage dealt to a creature normally causes the amount of damage to be added to an invisible &quot;damage counter&quot; which is reset at the end of each turn (during the cleanup step).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage dealt to a player normally causes the player to lose that much life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage dealt to a planeswalker normally causes that many loyalty counters to be removed from the planeswalker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some abilities modify or replace the normal effect with another effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;For creatures&lt;/em&gt;: If a source dealing damage to a creature has wither or infect, the damage causes that many -1/-1 counters to be placed on the creature instead of adding to the damage counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;For creatures&lt;/em&gt;: If a source dealing damage to a creature has deathtouch, the damage marks the creature as having received damage from a source with deathtouch.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;For players&lt;/em&gt;: If a source dealing damage to a player has infect, the damage causes the player to gain that many poison counters instead of them losing life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T16:45:20.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20375" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20379" CreationDate="2014-10-17T18:24:01.907" Score="2" ViewCount="3690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm learning to play Go and I was trying to develop a game in java, but I'm still not sure how to count territory in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the scenario below, which side belongs to White, Top or Bottom?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Scenario1&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X X X X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . O O O O O |&#xA;$$ | . . . . O . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . O . . . . |&#xA;$$ | O O O O O . X X X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Next one, White has the whole board divided in three pieces. Does Black get&#xA;  any territory here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Scenario2&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;$$ | . X X . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . X . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | X X X . . O X X X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ | O O O O O O X . . |&#xA;$$ | X X X X . O X X X |&#xA;$$ | X X X X . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . X . X . O . . . |&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9763" LastEditorUserId="1330" LastEditDate="2014-10-18T22:28:17.870" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T16:52:37.180" Title="Go - How does one count territory in these two scenarios? (9x9)" Tags="|go|scoring|end-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20368" CreationDate="2014-10-17T18:40:02.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;card effect&quot;&lt;/a&gt; in YGO refers to the effect text of any type of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T18:40:02.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2014-10-17T21:08:16.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Germany SHOULD NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE FOLLOW DAN'S FIRST TURN PURCHASE OF 8 INFANTRY PLUS 1 TRANSPORT.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead Germany should simply bring 2 infantry to support the starting 1 infantry 1 tank there and will now take Egypt Round 2 with 3 infantry PLUS 1 tank (can send a fighter for that battle as needed).  The reason I am so confident in this play is because there are very few choices for the Allies to respond to this tactic, and each one results in an advantage for the Axis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK Response 1: U.K. doesn't build an IC. Uses money on Naval (likely lost rd. 2 since America hasn't sent support yet), or fighters/Bombers (fighters help Russia defend, Bombers bomb Germany for money).  Result - UK forfeits Africa dollar spend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK Response 2: U.K. builds IC in S.Africa.  Result - UK defends/takes Africa after 4 turns (needs 3 rounds or 6 tanks to successfully attack/win Africa. In the mean time Japan takes India, and pressures Russia ahead of schedule, thus before U.S. implements Shuck-Shuck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;UK Response 3: U.K. builds IC in India and slowly loses Africa 1 country at a time.  Result - the most optimal response is to stick to the game plan, hold India as long as possible so that U.S. Shuck-Shuck can get started.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we must look at the U.S. response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;U.S. response 1: transports troops to W.Africa rd 1.  Result - Germany kills lone transport, Germany wastes time backtracking to kill U.S. troops but is still left as the remaining force in Africa. More importantly America loses the transport as cannon fodder required to set up Shuck Shuck.  Net positive since U.S. has the money to waste and Germany is more hurt by slowing progress in Africa.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;U.S. response 2: continue operation Shuck-Shuck, Germany gets Africa and is well positioned for the long-haul. It's now a question of if Japan can pressure Russia before Shuck Shuck diverts enough German resources westward....&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion - the optimal allied response should always come back to enabling a U.S. led shuck-shuck strategy. Thus, sending 2 infantry from S.Europe rd.1 by Germany and delaying taking Egypt is the optimal move, but spending any further resources are simply a waste and will only put Germany on the back foot that much quicker once shuck shuck is operational.  If U.S./U.K. waste/spend any money in saving Africa after Germany has made this move, be a smart Axis player, say thank you for delaying shuck shuck and capitalize on that advantage by putting even more pressure on Karelia, further limiting Russia's ability to defend eastward when Japan eventually comes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastEditorUserId="9765" LastEditDate="2014-10-17T21:15:47.103" LastActivityDate="2014-10-17T21:15:47.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20662" CreationDate="2014-10-18T15:06:31.087" Score="8" ViewCount="11150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Keeping in mind the force capture rule, how many kings is possible to have (of one colour) on the board at once in Checkers? What is the sequence leading up to this? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8530" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T21:05:26.540" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T11:27:03.647" Title="How many kings is it possible to have on the board at once?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20375" CreationDate="2014-10-18T22:44:01.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've misunderstood the scoring principle. White is, as you explained, dividing the board. But that has &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; impact on scoring by itself. We often say, misleadingly, &amp;quot;divide the board into areas&amp;quot;, but we should really say &amp;quot;stake out territory by surrounding it with walls&amp;quot;. Only then can you count the score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a bit tricky at first, but once you grasp it, it's very easy and natural.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Scenario1&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;$$ | b b b X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | b b b X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X X X X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . O O O O O |&#xA;$$ | . . . . O . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . O . . . . |&#xA;$$ | O O O O O . X X X |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . X b b |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . X b b |&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your first picture, player 2 has surrounded the corners (I've denoted that with 'b'). However, the other area is not yet finished, because it is &lt;em&gt;not completely inside one player's walls&lt;/em&gt;. It is wrong to ask which side belongs to white, because nothing belongs to white yet - she did not surround any territory at all yet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that this area is neutral and does not add score for any player. Instead, the players should continue playing and trying to stake out a wall around this area, naturally as large as possible. Let us try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W Possible result&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;$$ | b b b X b b X O w |&#xA;$$ | b b b X b X X O w |&#xA;$$ | X X X X X X O w w |&#xA;$$ | b b X . O O O O O |&#xA;$$ | X X O O O X X X O |&#xA;$$ | . O w w O X b X . |&#xA;$$ | O O O O O . X X X |&#xA;$$ | w w O X X X X b b |&#xA;$$ | w w O X b b X b b |&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be a result. You can see that the previously neutral area has been divided, and both players got a certain share. You can see that now, white also has some area for herself (she had nothing before).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll also notice that after resolving, there are still some points on the board which are not controlled be either player. Because neither player can now surround these points, it is not necessary to include them. Any player could play a stone there to remove them, but he would not gain any points, because he is not surrounding new territory. (I assume you're using Japanese rules, it's a bit different in Chinese rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your second picture black has 3 solid areas (2 of them are split into eyes). White, similarly as above, has no definite territory at all yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2021-06-30T16:52:37.180" LastActivityDate="2021-06-30T16:52:37.180" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2014-10-18T23:55:50.890" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are now playing magic cards.  We typically envision the scenario to be involved with summoning some creatures to attack or defend, casting some spells to hinder our opponents, setting up enchantments to boost up our advantages.  If our opponents don't do anything we play, a typical creature fast attack deck of all era probably wins on turn 4 or turn 5(if not, we need to redesign our deck).  What if we are playing against someone that does nothing to what you play, and suddenly wins the game on turn 2 or turn 3 or even the first turn?  The word &quot;broken&quot; is used to address such issues.  A lot of people don't want to play against such type of decks, but Urza's Saga block supplies numerous amount of cards that can make decks of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the ways to win a Magic game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One player's life drops to 0 or less.  (This is most common way to win.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One player's deck is running out of cards, and he/she has to draw.  (The normal circumstance would be players have played for a long time.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Certain cards dictates other winning conditions, and they have just been met.  (e.g. Coalition Victory)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2, if someone plays a game with 60 cards initially, and if you can force him/her to draw more than 60 cards at any turn, you win the game.  If you can do this on turn 1, you win on turn 1.  The cards in Urza's Saga block create such chance to become more likely to happen.  This concept is not seen in nowadays blocks because cards that can lead to this scenario will not be created, but if you play Vintage format, you will still see this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stoke of Genius forces anyone to be named to draw X cards.  If you have 60 mana for X, your opponent loses the game instantly.  Many decks in Vintage uses this method to win the game ----- generating a very large amount of mana in a single turn and then force the opponent draw to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Voltaic Key + Grim Monolith = 5 mana&#xA;Voltaic Key + 2x Grim Monolith = 7 mana&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tolarian Academy gives you 1 blue mana for each artifact you control.  Together with Voltaic Key and grim monolith, we can have a lot of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crop Rotation makes sure that even if you don't have any Tolarian Academy in your hand on turn 1, you can still scoop it up.  If you have 4x Tolarian Academy and 4x Crop Rotation, the chance that you can get a Tolarian Academy on the first turn increases from 40% to 65%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Windfall/Memory Jar lets you draw 7 cards.  If you have less than 7 cards when you cast/activate, you gain cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mind Over Matter + Tolarian Academy + many artifact in play + a lot of cards in your hand is a combo that can generate such a huge amount of mana.  Since Mind Over Matter is 2UUUU and Tolarian Academy generates blue mana, it's not difficult to cast early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yawgmoth's Will allows you to play with less cards need to be drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yawgmoth's Bargain does not give you disadvantage if you play it early in the game.  A sudden draw of 10 cards makes combo decks work immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Spiral almost work like giving you an extra turn because you get to untap 6 lands and refill your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tinker can be used to call up Memory Jar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frantic Search not only lets you have a chance to gain the card that you want, but also untaps lands.  If one of the land is Tolarian Academy, you gain more mana on that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those mentioned cards can be merges into a single extended deck.  Apart from Mind Over Matter, all mentioned cards so far belong to Urza's Saga block.  That's how powerful this block is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't mention how Tempest block and 6th Edition can help this type of deck.  Scroll Rack, Dream Halls, Enlightened Tutor, Mystical Tutor, Vampiric Tutor can speed up drawing.  Mana Vault is even cheaper than Grim Monolith.  City of Traitors and Ancient Tomb give you more mana early in the game.  Lotus Petal and Mox Diamond not only provide mana themselves, but also boost up Tolarian Academy.  Furthermore, they allow you to play non-blue spells such as Yawgmoth's Will and Yawgmoth's Bargain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type of deck is played like this:  You play Tolarian Academy + many artifacts, then you draw and draw and draw to give yourself more cards and more artifacts with Mind Over Matter in play(with 2 stroke of genius).  With almost your library becomes your hand, force you opponent to draw more cards than he/she has in their libraries for the win.  With Vintage format, from the help of power nine and Wheel of Fortune, if there were no restrictions on power nine and Wheel of Fortune, this type of deck finishes the game on turn 1 with probability at least 80%.  We rarely see a turn 3 or above finish.  If you are playing against a deck of the same type, it's almost like whoever wins the flip whoever wins the magic card game.  What is the need of playing magic card then?  Where is players' interactions during the game?  A lot of players would not play such a card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tolarian Academy + Mind Over Matter is not the only way to generate a large amount of mana in a single turn.  Grim Monolith + Power Artifact, Worldgorger Dragon, Fastbond + Zuran Orb + Crucible of Worlds, and more other strategies can achieve.  All combo decks requires the components of combo to be met.  Yet the cards in Urza's Saga block mentioned in this article can also be used in other combo decks to speed up drawing just like Ancestral Recall.  Those cards appear in almost every Vintage deck.  They have perpetual effect in Magic.  If we have a new combo in the future, those cards will always be used.  Because of such versatility and such a large number of cards in a single block.  Urza's Sage is the most broken block throughout history. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9771" LastActivityDate="2014-10-18T23:55:50.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20382" CreationDate="2014-10-19T02:25:20.693" Score="4" ViewCount="18300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started learning magic a week ago and I've been playing duels of the planeswalkers 2014 to kind of get a hang of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm confused with something that has happened twice now. I'm playing against a campaign deck with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Fireslinger&quot;&gt;Goblin Fireslinger&lt;/a&gt; which has an activated ability that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Goblin Fireslinger deals 1 damage to target player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this gets cast while I have the instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20to%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt; in my hand, which &amp;quot;Exile(s) target creature.&amp;quot; So I cast that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it is my understanding with the way the stack works that once the GF uses its ability and then I follow it up with the Exile, the exile is resolved first so the GF should be exiled before it can resolve. And that's what the game does, but it still resolves the GF's ability while that card is exiled and deals me one damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried looking for why this could have happened, but I haven't been able to find an answer myself. I can't find anything that says an exiled spell still casts... I'm just confused about the way this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9773" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T02:48:19.277" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T15:43:35.777" Title="Why can an ability resolve even if I exiled the creature it came from?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-20T21:56:27.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2014-10-19T03:03:06.193" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding of how the stack works is correct: your path will resolve and exile the fireslinger before its ability resolves. What you're missing is rule 112.7a, which says that the fireslinger's activated ability exists independently of the fireslinger. Once you put it on the stack, the 1 damage is its own object and exists even if the fireslinger itself leaves the battlefield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won't affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, &quot;Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player&quot;) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it's expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to actually counter the ability, there are very few ways to do so. Less than 20 cards in all of magic can counter activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T03:03:06.193" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2014-10-19T03:03:33.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you activate an ability (the damage ability, for example), it exists on the stack as its own object independent from the object it was activated from (Goblin Fireslinger, for example). So even if you exile the Goblin Fireslinger, the ability is still on the stack and it still resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T03:03:33.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2014-10-19T03:04:19.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is part of your confusion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I tried looking for why this could have happened, but I haven't been able to find an answer myself. I can't find anything that says an exiled spell still casts... I'm just confused about the way this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't a matter of &quot;an exiled spell still casts&quot; here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spell is a card on the stack: an instant, sorcery, creature, etc. When Goblin Fireslinger was being cast, just before it entered the battlefield, it was a spell. When Path to Exile was being cast, before it resolved, it was a spell. Those are &lt;em&gt;the only two spells&lt;/em&gt; involved in this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goblin Fireslinger doesn't create a spell. As you pointed out, it has an activated ability. When you activate it, that puts &lt;em&gt;an activated ability&lt;/em&gt; on the stack. (That's important: it means you can stop it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStifle%5d&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;, but not with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCancel%5d&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;.) If you're imagining the Goblin itself, which you exiled, was on the stack in some capacity, that's not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the Goblin got exiled just fine and won't be doing anything else, but its ability is now its own thing still on the stack waiting to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that ability exists independently of it. Check &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Basic Rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 14:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you activate an ability but then the permanent the ability came from leaves the battlefield, the ability will still resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why its ability can get resolved even whilst the Goblin isn't still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to learn more about how spells and abilities work, I suggest you read those pages in the Basic Rules book, and possibly for further clarification read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12659/5573&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; that helped me a lot when I was new. In fact, if you haven't read the Basic Rules yet, I suggest you do! I never knew they existed until a while after I started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T03:15:54.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12729" CreationDate="2014-10-19T05:20:46.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not strictly a new topology, I often play where the regular bound board is present, but on top of that draw &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; lines diagonally through points, connecting them. Through having a bottom left to top right, and a top left to bottom right diagonal go through the centre point. Through having 3 to 5 of these pairs of lines, they significantly change the strategy, also making it more interesting to amateur players. Of course this has significant FTA(first turn advantage), which is another reason its useful with large skill differences. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, with the few diagonal lines running along the board, connect these lines at the edges so that they are continuous, while the normal vertical/horizontal grid is bound. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NB:Alternative rule: Territory only needs to surround the regular vertical/horizontal lines, not the diagonals. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9774" LastEditorUserId="9774" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T06:01:46.863" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T06:01:46.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20381" CreationDate="2014-10-19T10:02:43.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other people have already pointed out, Goblin Fireslinger's ability still resolves because the ability exists independently of the creature itself. So something would have to happen to the ability rather than the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To expand a bit on what everyone has said about countering abilities - although there are very few cards that will directly counter an ability, what you can often do much more easily is to make its target(s) invalid. Spells or abilities that don't have any legal targets when they try to resolve are automagically countered (rule 608.2b). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. you could cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382955&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gilded Light&lt;/a&gt; while Goblin Fireslinger's ability was on the stack, and the ability would be countered. There aren't many ways to make &lt;em&gt;yourself&lt;/em&gt; an invalid target, but there are &lt;em&gt;lots&lt;/em&gt; of ways to do this with creatures and other permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9777" LastEditorUserId="9777" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T15:43:35.777" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T15:43:35.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18053" CreationDate="2014-10-19T11:47:53.597" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify a little, even though I am not going to quote any rules, in this case simple logic will help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have for example Ajani's Pridemate in play and you cast Well part of the Alive // Well card this is what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well on the stack resolves, the spell counts your creatures during its resolving process and gain you lives during one single event, there are not keyworded two or more instances to be resolved seerately. Ajani's Pridemate's abbility triggers and it gets 1 +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9779" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T11:47:53.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:03:11.817" Score="5" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;When conquering a new region, do you deploy race tokens from other regions you have already conquered, or do you use your unused race tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9781" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T18:52:06.307" Title="Use of race tokens when conquering new regions" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20388" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:10:16.883" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only use your unused race tokens (those you took into hand at the start of your turn). The only time you can take race tokens from already conquered spaces is 1) At end of turn when you can reallocate tokens on conquered spaces, and 2) At the start of the turn when you can take race tokens from conquered spaces into hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:10:16.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20390" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:28:27.617" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:28:27.617" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:28:27.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20391" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:28:27.617" Score="0" Body="A trick-taking game where players aim to take exactly as many tricks as they bid at the beginning of the game. Played with a standard 52-card deck plus 4 Wizards that automatically win the trick and 4 Jokers that can't win the trick but count as any suit." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:28:27.617" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:28:27.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20392" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:30:38.810" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:30:38.810" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:30:38.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20393" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:30:38.810" Score="0" Body="A real-time cooperative game where players spend exactly 10 minutes planning their actions before resolving them." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:30:38.810" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:30:38.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20394" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:32:49.193" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:32:49.193" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:32:49.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20395" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:32:49.193" Score="0" Body="A game were players must find 'sets' in a layout of 12 cards. There are four characteristics that take on one of three values on each card, and a set is a group of three cards that have either all the same or all different values for each characteristic." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:32:49.193" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:32:49.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20396" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:34:45.983" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:34:45.983" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:34:45.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20397" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:34:45.983" Score="0" Body="Played in ancient Egypt, senet is one of the oldest known board games." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:34:45.983" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:34:45.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20398" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:39:17.023" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:39:17.023" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:39:17.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20399" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:39:17.023" Score="0" Body="German for 'game of the year', spiel-des-jahres is an award given annually to a game that exhibits excellence in design." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:39:17.023" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:39:17.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20400" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:42:47.767" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:42:47.767" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:42:47.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20401" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:42:47.767" Score="0" Body="A game played by rolling two 'pigs', which are essentially dice with a unique probability distribution. Various results will give you different amounts of points or reset your total to zero for this turn. You may role as many times as you like before passing the pigs to the next player and adding your total score this turn to your grand total." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:42:47.767" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:42:47.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20402" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:43:55.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This game can be played as a pen-and-paper game or with Go stones on a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is known under many names, including five-in-a-row, Gomoku, and Renju.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Renju has organised play and championships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information can be found on the site of the Renju International Foundation at&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://renju.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://renju.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T17:55:09.573" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:55:09.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20403" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-19T16:43:55.647" Score="0" Body="Players place stones on a board of squares until one of them gets five in a row, column, or diagonal." OwnerUserId="191" LastEditorUserId="191" LastEditDate="2014-10-19T16:43:55.647" LastActivityDate="2014-10-19T16:43:55.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20404" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20612" CreationDate="2014-10-19T17:11:55.767" Score="1" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I flip 'Sinister Shadow Games' if I have no Shaddoll cards in my main deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sinister Shadow Games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Send 1 &quot;Shaddoll&quot; card from your Deck to the Graveyard, then you can&#xA;  change any number of face-down Defense Position &quot;Shaddoll&quot; monsters&#xA;  you control to face-up Defense Position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and if this is so, do I get it's secondary effect to flip up a face down Shaddoll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T16:37:38.410" Title="Can I activate Sinister Shadow Games if I have no Shaddolls in my main deck?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20647" CreationDate="2014-10-19T17:20:22.170" Score="1" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I activate 'Sinister Shadow Games' if Dimensional Fissure has already been activated and, if I can, do I get the second effect to flip up a face down Shaddoll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sinister Shadow Games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Send 1 &quot;Shaddoll&quot; card from your Deck to the&#xA;  Graveyard, then you can change any number of face-down Defense&#xA;  Position &quot;Shaddoll&quot; monsters you control to face-up Defense Position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dimensional Fissure&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any monster sent to the Graveyard is banished instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T00:41:53.990" Title="Sinister Shadow Games and Dimensional Fissure" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5714" CreationDate="2014-10-20T01:40:34.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throw some Grand Abolishers in your deck! 2drop white creatures that disallows your opponents from playing spells on your turn, meaning, all their counterspells become useless to your enchantment/ creature drops. Add in a privileged possition to prevent them from trying to remove things, and then you're only susceptible to board whipes, which can even be counter themselves by making your creatures indestructable with something like Ajani's presence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9786" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T01:40:34.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2014-10-20T05:05:35.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, I had no idea that Euchre had a point system (with regard to the value of each card in the deck).  I played in college and I found that, more important than a strict strategy on how to play a certain hand, is to learn the habits of your opponents.  I realize this is not novel considering card games.  But with Euchre it becomes even more important, because there are only five cards in a hand, and winning a hand has a small margin for error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I'd like to pass along what has worked for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a position of power to be the dealer, no doubt.  Equally as powerful is to be to the immediate left of the dealer.  You have the first option to either order it up, or to call your own suit when it goes around.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When it is your turn to decide whether you want to name the suit (or order it up to the other team), consider the saying &quot;You can always count on your partner for 1 trick&quot;.  This is not always the case.  But, if your opponents are close to going out, you should be prepared to call it up and play as if you do expect your partner to get one.  This includes leading into him, and letting his non-bower trumps ride.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In general, it is bad practice to call it up if you don't have at least one bower.  My wildcard nature has me taking chances where, for example, I am 2- or 3-suited, and I have at least 3-4 trump (no bowers), or 3 trump including the left.  Decisions like these become easier to make when the opponents turned over a jack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More &quot;Wildcard-Nature-Bad Advice&quot;: if I find myself seated to the left of the dealer, and IF THEY have been &quot;screwed by the deal&quot;, I consider it permissible to lead low trump.  It doesn't always work, but sometimes it bleeds the non-dealer opponent.  It could also bleed your partner.  Use with caution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More obvious tips which I'm sure most players employ: if you have a plurality of trump, and these cards are consecutive trump, and if you are being bled of trump, always play the highest consecutive trump.  ( if you also have a 9, but it is not part of your consecutive run, play that instead )  This instills a false sense of security in your opponents, and they may feel it is safe to lead their aces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Stealing The Deal is a gambit available to you, I personally prefer to not, as per the power position of being to the left of the dealer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9788" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T05:05:35.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20408" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20409" CreationDate="2014-10-20T11:35:01.837" Score="4" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I had an interesting one recently at our local win a box tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scene - I have 12 life remaining, my opponent has 9. I have an un-monstrous &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbor%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Arbor Colossus&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polukranos%2C%20World%20Eater&quot;&gt;Polukranos, World Eater&lt;/a&gt;(monstrous 4), my opponent has no board at all apart from lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my turn, I attack with both my creatures. My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Titan%20Strength&quot;&gt;Titan Strength&lt;/a&gt; on my Polukranos and then casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deflecting%20Palm&quot;&gt;Deflecting Palm&lt;/a&gt; on Polukranos so I am now dead to my own Polukranos (12/12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ended here because my opponent started shouting so loud about how he had won with such a play that I missed a vital part of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could have used the monstrous ability on my Arbor Collosus and made that a 9/9. So I have this question:-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had used my monstrous on the Arbor Collosus - would that make the game a draw (we both die at the same time) or could I have had my creatures deal their damage in an order of my choosing, and thus win the game before being killed by my own Polukranos??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2014-10-20T11:43:31.093" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T07:34:57.067" Title="Damage dealt by creatures and the order of damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20408" CreationDate="2014-10-20T12:06:28.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All combat damage is dealt at the same time, so yes, it would have been a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deflecting Palm is a replacement effect (instead of your opponent, you take damage the moment combat damage is dealt). This happens at the same time for all combat damage. So, the Polukranos damage hits you the same time the Arbor Colossus damage would have hit your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;/edit: last paragraph was incorrect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="5859" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T07:34:57.067" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T07:34:57.067" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20649" CreationDate="2014-10-20T16:48:04.147" Score="3" ViewCount="177" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Xia, Legends of a Drift System, one can receive missions to go to certain locations and do such things as conduct negotiations or pick up contraband.  In order to achieve this step of this mission, is it necessary to go to that system's &quot;mission&quot; location, or is it sufficient to enter that system's tile?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T21:15:16.420" Title="When turning in a mission, do you have to be on the mission hex to complete a mission, or is anywhere in the system acceptable?" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20412" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-20T16:56:58.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player starts out as lowly but hopeful captain of a small starship. The players have just arrived in the dangerous but promising drift system of Xia. Players will fly their ships about the system, completing a variety of missions, exploring new sectors and battling other ships. Navigating hazardous environments, Captains can choose to mine or trade valuable commodities. Players will vie with each other for Titles, riches, and most importantly Fame. Players must take advantage of opportunities as they arise in order to maximize gaining Fame Points. The most adaptive, risky, and creative players will excel. One captain will rise above the others, surpassing mortality by becoming Legend!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T20:47:05.227" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T20:47:05.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20413" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-20T16:56:58.037" Score="0" Body="Xia: Legends of a Drift System is a 3-5 player sandbox style competitive space adventure board game with light RPG elements." OwnerUserId="71" LastEditorUserId="71" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T08:19:47.927" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T08:19:47.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T17:00:34.340" Score="1" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Xia: Legends of a Drift System, there are many ways to gain Fame.  One of them is to purchase it, at the cost of 5,000 credits per fame point.  However, the rulebook explicitly states that you cannot purchase your final fame point in this manner.  Another way to gain fame is to purchase a new ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything preventing a player from purchasing a new ship for 5,000 credits and receiving his final Fame point in this manner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T13:40:31.090" Title="Can you purchase a ship to win your final Fame Point?" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20415" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-20T17:02:22.733" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Xia: Legends of a Drift System, you can upgrade your ship with outfits.  These outfits take up several spaces in your cargo hold.  Many of the spaces on the outfits have game-significant features, such as arming points.  However, some of these spaces are effectively blank.  Is it legal to store cargo on top of these spaces in the outfits, or are they considered to be filled space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T13:37:05.513" Title="Can you store cargo on your outfit's &quot;unused&quot; spaces?" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20670" CreationDate="2014-10-20T17:06:17.720" Score="1" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Xia: Legends of a Drift System, one of the ships, named &quot;Swamp Rat&quot;, has a special ability that allows it to trigger one of it's own outfits as a defense to an incoming attack.  If the outfit triggered is an Engine, and the resulting movement breaks the line-of-sight of the incoming attack, does the attack resolve normally, or has the movement prevented it?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T13:44:05.923" Title="Can the Swamp Rat's special ability be used to end combat?" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="53392" CreationDate="2014-10-20T17:24:15.590" Score="3" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Adventure Time's Card Wars game (the physical card game, not the computer game), can I play a 0 action spell on my opponent's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-11-09T18:24:50.420" LastActivityDate="2021-10-29T04:31:14.647" Title="Can you play a spell on your opponent's turn?" Tags="|card-wars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6895" CreationDate="2014-10-20T18:04:50.120" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I still don't get the difficulty. I don't know if this was just our house rule back in the day or if it was explicitly stated but everyone I knew back in Alpha and Beta days unless all creatures in a band contained a keyword ability then any who had that keyword lost it for the duration of the band.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the examples provided, the creatures with trample and first strike lost those abilities the instant they were added to the band. Also once the band is declared it lasts until the end of the turn, so if you take out the only creature with banding in a band the band remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one complexity that existed which could have been completely removed by a rules update was it working differently on attack and defense, just make it so that they are the same requiring all creatures in a band but 1 to have banding regardless of whether you are attacking or defending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9793" LastActivityDate="2014-10-20T18:04:50.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20854" CreationDate="2014-10-21T10:34:55.357" Score="8" ViewCount="552" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play Sid Meier's Civilization as a team game?&#xA;Are there some specific rules that must be thought about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I can see this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play by normal rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;two players will both win if one of them wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;only open communication is allowed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9796" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-26T02:37:02.420" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T05:02:01.857" Title="Can Sid Meier's Civilization (2010) be played cooperatively?" Tags="|house-rules|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20346" CreationDate="2014-10-21T13:23:40.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the shortened version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, they cannot force you to lead from the same suit in the hand that should have led. But they can &quot;accept&quot; your lead from the wrong hand (or reject it). If the next player plays, that is assumed as an acceptance (whether that player was alert or not about the play out of turn).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer should not draw an &quot;inference&quot; from the opponents willingness or not to accept the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, there is no &quot;damage&quot; to the opponents because your partner is dummy and cannot gain any advantage by knowing about you holding a certain card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T13:23:40.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16820" CreationDate="2014-10-21T13:38:58.757" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you say the &quot;trump&quot; suit I assume you mean the led suit. Spades are always trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to assess where partner's nil is likely to be set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 1, you are worried partner might be forced to win this trick, so you are going in with a spade. That would be correct if there is reason to assume partner might be forced to win it, given by counting what has happened so far. Or it being the dangerous 3rd round of the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 2: Partner has no cards so he will be able to discard. You're already in trouble if partner only has spades left, unless this is trick 11 or 12 and you know the opps both have only spades too. You definitely do not want to part with a spade here. Save it for when you need it. Partner can get rid of a high side-suit card anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario 3. Playing a high spade is probably the worst thing you can do here. This is like scenario 1, you might ruff in if you are scared partner will be forced to win this trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T13:38:58.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20351" CreationDate="2014-10-21T14:12:56.200" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no building limits in Lords of Waterdeep as defined in the &lt;strong&gt;Appendix 3: Clarifications&lt;/strong&gt; section in the rulebook of &lt;strong&gt;Scoundrels of Skullport&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Number of Buildings in Play&lt;/strong&gt;: You are not limited to the ten empty&#xA;  spaces on the game board for Building tiles when putting Buildings into&#xA;  play. Simply place any additional Buildings in a convenient place on or&#xA;  near the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2233&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; for Lords of Waterdeep:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can more than 10 Buildings be in play?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes. The number of empty Building spaces on the board is no limit to&#xA;  the number of Buildings that can be in play during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for personal building limits, you &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; in fact limited to the number of building tokens you have, as defined in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2233&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you control more Buildings than you have control markers?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No. The number of control markers you have is the maximum number of&#xA;  Buildings you can have in a single game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This limit is also enforced on the iOS game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastEditorUserId="7874" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T13:41:03.480" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T13:41:03.480" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-10-21T16:13:26.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you go to pass cards prior to the hand, you need to make a decision with respect to spades.  You might only have few, and worse, some of those cards are the A,K, or Q.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer to play the role of &quot;Distributor of Pain&quot; in any hand of Hearts.  To do so it is ideal to have at least 2-3 (more is always better) other spades (other than the Q).  If you do have the A or K, look to play them when playing last, or second-to-last if your left is known to be out of spades.  Then, sit back and plot who deserves it the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you are not well imbued with spades all bets are off.  Get off the sinking ship ASAP.  There is no chivalry in this scenario; you would have liked to drop the Q to conform to the appropriate storyline, but you don't have time to wait around for it to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9788" LastActivityDate="2014-10-21T16:13:26.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20434" CreationDate="2014-10-21T19:02:56.463" Score="1" ViewCount="4478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created a board game for playing while watching American Football with your friends. We always had a great time playing it and anybody outside of our group who saw it immediately loved it. So I thought it's a no brainer, it's time to sell this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name of the game is Big Bucks Football. And I built my website and twitter and Facebook and YouTube, and I believe I have about 8 hits. I am active, I tweet on twitter, I share on Facebook, I have instructional videos on YouTube, but still no success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, has anyone here had any success, or have any ideas on how to promote the game? I have a limited budget but I'm willing to put the time in. I just started my Kickstarter campaign, but I'm already worried if that doesn't work I may start pulling my hair out cause I'm out of ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9798" LastEditorUserId="9798" LastEditDate="2014-10-21T20:32:48.287" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:34:19.977" Title="How do I promote a board game to the masses?" Tags="|game-design|game-development|prototyping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-10-26T15:18:22.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20427" CreationDate="2014-10-22T01:06:56.637" Score="5" ViewCount="2520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started playing Magic this year, so this might a super-newb question, but here it goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent declares that he will attack with this 2/2 colorless morph.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I declare no blockers because I figure I can take 2 damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent pays the morph cost to morph his attacking creature into a 5/3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krumar%20Bond-Kin&quot;&gt;Krumar Bond-Kin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I decide to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kill%20Shot&quot;&gt;Kill Shot&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens now? Do I take 5 damage? Do I take 2 damage? Can I even play Kill Shot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, technically speaking, during what phases are the steps I've detailed above happening? I was under the assumption that you can morph whenever you want, but I've read that you can't morph during combat damage resolution, which leads me to believe that I take no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9799" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:59:10.033" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:59:10.033" Title="Does Kill Shot-ing a morph during combat prevent damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20426" CreationDate="2014-10-22T01:21:14.863" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The end result of these plays is that the Krumar Bond-Kin dies, and deals you no damage. If you did not play the Kill Shot, you would take 5 damage instead. If your opponent did not morph the creature, and you played Kill Shot, the creature would still be dead and you would still take no damage. I think that covers it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, the actions happened in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your opponent's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Attackers_Step&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, they declared a face-down 2/2 creature as an attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your opponent's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_blockers_step&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Declare Blockers Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, you chose to declare no blockers.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent then gained &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;priority&lt;/a&gt; and morphed their creature. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Morph&quot;&gt;Morphing&lt;/a&gt; a creature is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Special_Action&quot;&gt;special action&lt;/a&gt;, and it does not use the stack. It happens immediately, and cannot be responded to. The face up creature counts as the same object that the face down creature was. It is still tapped and attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gained priority, and cast Kill Shot targeting the face up Krumar Bond-Kin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Kill Shot resolves, and destroys the Krumar Bond-Kin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_damage_step&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; starts. There are no attacking creatures, so no damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T01:21:14.863" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-22T08:29:35.920" Score="2" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the strive mechanic counts as one spell that can be cast multiple times by paying the extra cost, or is it just one spell that can affect multiple targets if you pay the mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the prowess ability of the Jeskai would stack with one spell cast with the stride mechanic and subsequently paying the extra mana. Would that trigger prowess a second, or third time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9800" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T09:59:41.367" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:35:12.977" Title="Does the Strive mechanic give the opportunity to cast the spell multiple times, or just have multiple targets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20428" CreationDate="2014-10-22T09:14:43.003" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just one spell with (potentially) multiple targets. It doesn't count as being cast multiple times, and it will only trigger Prowess once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aerial%20Formation&quot;&gt;Aerial Formation&lt;/a&gt; for an example, the text says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Strive&lt;/em&gt; — Aerial Formation costs {2}{U} more to cast for each target beyond the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any number of target creatures each get +1/+1 and gain flying until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is known as an &lt;strong&gt;additional cost.&lt;/strong&gt; As its name might suggest, it just increases the mana cost of the spell—it won't count as &lt;em&gt;casting&lt;/em&gt; it more than once. Incidentally, it's handled by &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/601-casting-spells.html#rule-601-2-b&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;competitive rule 601.2b&lt;/a&gt;, the same rule that handles the {X} in mana costs. It's the same kind of thing: another flexible mechanism where you pay more to improve the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you want to target three creatures: you announce you intend to pay that cost twice, so you add &lt;strong&gt;4UU&lt;/strong&gt; to the mana cost of the spell (normally just &lt;strong&gt;U&lt;/strong&gt;), making the spell cost &lt;strong&gt;4UUU&lt;/strong&gt; total. Then you pick your three targets, pay the cost, and put the spell on the stack. Now the spell's cast, and Prowess is triggered once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other abilities which add additional costs to spells are Kicker (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Citanul%20Woodreaders&quot;&gt;Citanul Woodreaders&lt;/a&gt;) and Buyback (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Capsize&quot;&gt;Capsize&lt;/a&gt;). Then there's Multikicker (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodhusk%20Ritualist&quot;&gt;Bloodhusk Ritualist&lt;/a&gt;) which, like Strive, can be paid any number of times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T11:17:08.100" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T11:17:08.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18071" CreationDate="2014-10-22T09:47:19.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various &quot;handicaps&quot; that can be used to enable a weaker player to &quot;even up&quot; against a stronger opponent, and balance the odds as to who can win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some handicaps could put the weaker player into a technically won position. e.g. if you remove black's 'f' pawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put me as white against Magnus Carlsen, remove his 'f' pawn and let me start by making 2 moves, and see how long my advantage lasts. I'm a decent club player but it's highly unlikely that he won't still get the upper-hand sooner or later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been known to use handicaps whilst playing against chess software (Fritz). This can make the game more interesting. Still extremely frustrating when the bot catches up on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you go.. it was probably used as a handicap. One day they may even have a chess tournament with handicaps. However for the purpose of the &quot;laws&quot; of chess, there are no handicaps and white starts with a single move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T09:47:19.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="86" CreationDate="2014-10-22T10:00:06.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of castling is to &quot;develop&quot; the king, not the rook. The king is easier to defend towards the end squares but can be in danger anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However around the e-file the king also gets in the way of the other pieces, in particular blocking the rook in. Thus the castling move &quot;swaps&quot; the positions of the king and rook simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal sequence of opening moves is to first get minor pieces out and a few pawns, castle, get the queen out and that leaves the two rooks alone in the back-rank aside from the king near the end where they can move around freely between the files.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In highly &quot;attacking&quot; chess games, the two players may castle on opposite sides, i.e. one does the king-side and the other the queen-side. You then launch an attack on the side where the other play has his king by moving the pawns forward. However you also need to defend your own side from the opponents attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such games often suit white better. I therefore once had a rule that if I was black I would wait for my opponent to castle first. I'm not sure about the general validity of that rule, but something to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:00:06.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14273" CreationDate="2014-10-22T10:04:36.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some players will do anything to try to prevent them losing...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the position above, white promotes and black may as well resign. White can make a 2nd queen and give one of them up if necessary to prevent black's attack with the d and e pawns.&#xA;You won't even need to do that though. If black moves Ke4 his pawn on d5 is pinned, if he plays d5-d4 you go Qf3+ and if he plays Ke6 you just go Qc6+. Anything else and you just capture on d5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:04:36.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18172" CreationDate="2014-10-22T10:11:56.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know your level, but after learning basic tactics etc so you don't blunder away material, and improving your experience in that area, it starts being a matter of understanding positional advantages and disadvantages and strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With regards to openings, always a thorn in the side for me. So I would adopt certain favourite openings as black I could use that I would know well enough what to do against the likely white moves, and what the continuation strategy would be. Of course in friendly games I would practise different ones, in tournaments I would stick to the tried and tested. As black the main aim in a tournament is usually not to lose rather than to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With white in a tournament, you have the advantage of going first, but what move do you play first? If you start 1 e4 you let your opponent pick the response. They'll probably choose Sicilian more often than not so know it, and also some of the other likely ones. If you start 1 d4 there are fewer &quot;variations&quot;. As white, your usual aim is more to hope to win rather than avoid losing but it is important not to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course if you study grandmaster games you'll know what openings have been commonly played and some of the positions it led to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:11:56.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20425" CreationDate="2014-10-22T10:26:33.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Promoting a board game (design, prototype, print&amp;amp;play or kickstarter) should definitely involve BoardGameGeek, and similar communities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could expand, but everything's covered in this article: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/322382/game-design-self-publishing-resource-game-designer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/322382/game-design-self-publishing-resource-game-designer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should provide print&amp;amp;play materials for playtesting groups, to see if most people actually agree on your game's quality. And the feedback can lead to an improved game.&#xA;If your game &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; better than good, the word will spread (forum threads growing longer, enthusiastic playtesters recommending it to their neighbours' moms, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And: the &quot;masses&quot; (as in: everybody not actively following the boardgaming industry) will only encounter a game once it's physically for sale in shops. That's why every family with two kids has a copy of Monopoly but not Agricola, Diplomacy or Twilight Struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastEditorUserId="7091" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T10:34:19.977" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T10:34:19.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20436" CreationDate="2014-10-22T14:21:22.377" Score="2" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently working on a artifact deck (casual). I am thinking of imprinting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Somber%20Hoverguard&quot;&gt;Somber Hoverguard&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Soul Foundry&lt;/a&gt;. But how do I dertermine the imprint cost, and will the activation cost of Soul Foundry change as the numbers of artifacts change on my battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T14:43:32.493" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T14:50:43.880" Title="How does Imprinting and the affinity work together?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20435" CreationDate="2014-10-22T14:45:03.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't get any benefits from Affinity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The activation cost of Soul Foundry's activated ability is based on the Converted Mana Cost (CMC) of the imprinted card, and Somber Hoverguard's CMC is 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;202.3. The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;202.1. A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Affinity doesn't affect the mana cost. It's a cost reduction that reduces the cost to cast the spell, not its mana cost. To paraphrase 601.2e,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;cost to cast a spell&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  = mana cost or alternative cost&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  + additional costs and cost increases&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - cost reductions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-22T14:50:43.880" LastActivityDate="2014-10-22T14:50:43.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19170" CreationDate="2014-10-23T08:29:07.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hearts is not a partnership game but each player for themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you aim to target the leading player, but your primary aims are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoiding taking the queen of spades and hearts, unless you are aiming to shoot the moon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preventing opponents from shooting the moon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trying to ensure you are in the best position you can be in when the game is over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choosing which cards to pass is an interesting matter. According to the popular rules because it's the ones that came with Microsoft Windows, you have one round passing to the left, then one to the right, then one across and one with no passing. The game ends when one player or more reaches 100 and if you shoot the moon the other players all get 26 points. I've seen a variant where, when you shoot, you can choose between having 26 added to everyone's score or having that many removed from your own, the latter a good option if someone will bust and you won't be winning if everyone gets 26.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are dealt the queen of spades and are deciding whether to pass it, passing it to the left is always the most dangerous, to the right the least dangerous. Often one will pass an intermediate heart to ensure that player is not void in hearts. voiding yourself in hearts is one way to try to shoot the moon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule is normally that you cannot drop a heart or the queen of spades on the opening trick. (2 of clubs is always led). You can otherwise play it at any other time (as long as you are not avoiding following suit). You can only lead a heart once they have been &quot;broken&quot; or if you only have hearts left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, morals aside, what is your best tactic if you have the queen of spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well firstly, make sure you are not going to take a trick with it, unless you think you can shoot the moon. In general, let someone shoot the moon even rather than take it. (Maths: your average loss on each player by taking it is 13. By letting someone shoot your average loss is 26/3 which is 8.67, less than 13). &quot;In general&quot; depending on the score in general and that of your own and the opponent who might shoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming nobody is shooting the moon, if you don't discard it, might you win a trick with it? If part of a suit of 5 cards or longer, with some small ones so you are not stuck on lead at the end, probably not. As part of a 3 card suit, whether you have AK or not, you are in big danger of that happening. 4 card suit is a &quot;maybe&quot; situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if that's the danger, get rid when you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no danger, you look at the score and decide who you prefer to hit upon. Usually the player in the lead, or 2nd placed if you are in the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now assume it's the early stage, and you don't know if someone is going to shoot the moon. Actually getting rid now may work. The earlier a &quot;break&quot; happens, the more likely it is to prevent someone setting up their hand to take the rest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you go - some tactics to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastEditorUserId="980" LastEditDate="2014-10-23T13:48:39.603" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T13:48:39.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18849" CreationDate="2014-10-23T08:38:53.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are playing with a regular partner, you may introduce some conventions. This includes things like underbidding in front of partner and expecting them to adjust for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many players I see always underbid and prefer to play a bagging game rather than risk getting set. The problem is that by underbidding, you are losing out on all those 10s that you would get if you bid your hand up. And they can make a difference in the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good guide is to count 1 point for each ace and king, and any spade more than 3, and reduce a point if you have only one spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nil bids should always be considered. If you have an ace or a king in a suit of 5 cards you almost certainly won't ever be forced to play it. With 4 you might but it's quite possible you won't. With 3 you'd never normally nil with the ace or king, but might risk it with the queen. With Qx in a suit you don't normally nil, Jx you might risk it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have a convention with partner that a 5 or 7 bid encourages nil opposite, so with a hand worth 5 but bad nil-cover you bid only 4. In my circles blind-nil was banned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back around 2003 I was rather obsessed with spades and was in communication with many of the more &quot;expert&quot; circles. There was one site that hosted &quot;duplicate&quot; spades with a regular weekly tournament. I won it many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In later stages we used to play &quot;wiz&quot;, a variation where you had to bid your number of spades or nil. Used to play first to 500 which meant games were long and the luck of cards balanced out and it became far more of a skill game. In general I always hated the bagging game, and in wiz, the aim is always to set. bags only come into play if someone has nilled and then you generally concentrate more on covering it, trying to set it or setting the niller's partner rather than avoiding bags.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T08:38:53.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10802" CreationDate="2014-10-23T08:53:04.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, Words With Friends changed these letters scores:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;L, U, N: move from 1 to 2&#xA;G from 2 to 3&#xA;H and Y from 4 to 3&#xA;B, C, M and P from 3 to 4&#xA;V from 4 to 5&#xA;J from 8 to 10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest have stayed the same. Although K and V both score 5 now there is only one K tile and still two V tiles. There are now more than 4 S tiles that regular scrabble gives you. There seem to be a lot of H and Y tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A bingo has gone down from 50 bonus to only 35 which I quite like because it means there is less emphasis on playing one. And I reckon that, and not the scores of the tiles, is the biggest difference between the game and potential tactics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of course the bonus square positions have moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of scrabble players seem to put emphasis on 2-letter words and frequency of letters appearing in them, which makes 'C' one of the worst tiles as it doesn't appear in any (along with V). It is useful to learn the 3 letter words with 'V' and I used to have a rule to get rid of it quickly even if only on single-letter. 'C' is useful in longer words if you have an open board and bingo opportunities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare that with the 'F' that appears in a lot of short words but isn't that good for longer ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, does the changing of the scores of the tiles have a major impact in the game? I would say, not noticeably. The positioning of the bonus squares and the lower bingo bonus may have put less emphasis on aiming for a bingo and more on better placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it would have a negative impact would only really be if the game became more dependent on being lucky enough to pick up high-scoring letters rather than low-scoring ones. Or, if the elevation of 'L' and 'N' here to 2 points meant the relative weakness of having a 'Q' for example was not compensated by its higher scoring value when you place it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there are variations of the game that would put less emphasis on being lucky enough to hold a balanced rack (vowels and consonants), and that there were 2 bags, a vowel back and a consonant bag, and the 2 blank tiles put aside. When you draw, you can choose which bag to use, and in a 2-player game each player may choose when to pick up the blank among their letters. As you draw you see what you get before seeing what to draw next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then luck of the letter draw would become less of an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's no use saying &quot;good players know how to balance their rack&quot;. How do I control what I pick up if I bingo? How do I stop myself drawing vowel after vowel or consonant after consonant no matter how I play them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastEditorUserId="980" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T11:43:16.600" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T11:43:16.600" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T09:02:46.950" Score="2" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short version of my question is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to compute the probability of different hand ranks after redraw in poker? Can this easily generalise to a stacked (non-standard) deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/doomtown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doomtown Reloaded&lt;/a&gt; is a trading card game in which combat is resolved by hands of poker. Each card has an associated suit and value. Deck construction requires a 52 card deck with up to 4 cards of each suit and value. The ability of your 'dudes' alters the way you construct your poker hand. Some 'dudes' are stud shooters they allow you to draw more cards. Some dudes are 'draw' shooters, they allow you to discard and redraw. You are also allowed to include an additional 2 jokers (which can be used as any suit and value for the purposes of forming poker hands)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Computing how adding stud shooters affects your draw hand probability is relatively easy, however I haven't been able to find a description of how to compute the probability of different hands after redraw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know how to compute the likelihood of the 10 poker hand ranks (high card -&gt; 5 of a kind) given the deck construction, number of cards you initially draw and number of cards you discard and redraw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the suggestion of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2537/murgatroid99&quot;&gt;mergatroid99&lt;/a&gt; I've also asked this question at math.stackexchange.com &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/988825/poker-hand-probabilities-in-doomtown-reloaded&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9812" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T05:58:39.320" Title="Poker hand probabilities in Doomtown:Reloaded" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20378" CreationDate="2014-10-23T12:59:34.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent is remarkably cooperative, you could, theoretically, get 12 kings on the board for your color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent needs to open paths for you to get their back row in such a manner that you either do not get captured or can capture him on the way in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've had as many 8 in a game a couple times playing against a very not good opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T12:59:34.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8988" CreationDate="2014-10-23T14:33:36.717" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another difference, that actually has a bigger impact on strategy, is that the BINGO bonus (the bonus for playing all 7 tiles in one move) is reduced from 50 to 35.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Together with the placement of the bonus squares (see above) often allowing quadruple letter words and 9-time scoring letters (12 if placed also in both directions), you can sometimes score higher by good placement rather than bingos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-23T14:33:36.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2014-10-23T17:53:55.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I might suggest trying &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPossibility%20Storm%5d&quot;&gt;Possibility Storm&lt;/a&gt;. Use it to find Emrakul and play him for free on turn 5. Or use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuicksilver%20Amulet%5d&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Amulet&lt;/a&gt; to play him on turn 4-5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9814" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T09:58:00.327" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:58:00.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2014-10-23T19:04:33.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our house rule was that the player owing the money could try to AUCTION off one or more of their properties to remain solvent. Everyone, including the player who is owed the money, could bid. Each property was dealt with, in turn, until the amount of the rent was covered. The player owning the money got to pick the order of the auctions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The properties were set aside with the purchase cash on them until the various auctions were over. One nice thing about this is that no one, including the player owning the rent, could bid with money that they could not raise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there was not enough money to cover the debt, the player who was owed the money had the option to take the new amount of cash, or 'rollback' the auctions and take all the now bankrupt player's stuff instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process seemed to prevent any game-altering favoritism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9815" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T14:17:09.973" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T14:17:09.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20450" CreationDate="2014-10-24T00:16:16.537" Score="6" ViewCount="22949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently played &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.beziergames.com/ulwe.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;One Night Ultimate Werewolf&lt;/a&gt;, but it is sold out on the website, and currently not in stock near me. That said, Ultimate Werewolf Deluxe Edition is in stock, but I can't tell the difference other than I believe there is a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play &quot;One Night Ultimate Werewolf&quot; with &quot;Ultimate Werewolf Deluxe Edition&quot; and if so, how? If not, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9819" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T03:29:12.760" Title="Ultimate Werewolf Deluxe Edition vs One Night Ultimate Werewolf" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20449" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-24T03:19:24.373" Score="0" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abzan%20Battle%20Priest&quot;&gt;Abzan Battle Priest&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each creature you control with a +1/+1 counter on it has lifelink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it grant lifelink to creatures with two +1/+1 counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9820" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T03:38:19.643" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T10:47:39.017" Title="Checking a +1/+1 counter requirement" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20448" CreationDate="2014-10-24T03:29:12.760" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are actually quite different games. Ultimate Werewolf is a version of the party game known more widely as simply Werewolf, or Mafia. In its most basic form, there is an informed minority (the titular werewolves or mafia) and an uninformed majority (the town). The game is played over several rounds, or Days (or Day/Night cycles to be more accurate), where each Day everyone votes on a player to eliminate via lynch and each night the werewolves choose a (non-werewolf) player to eliminate via a &quot;night kill&quot;, which then repeats until one side has eliminated the threat of the other. It generally requires a moderator who knows the roles of all players, especially when some players may have additional powers (such as a seer who can find out whether another player is town or werewolf, or a doctor who can save someone from being killed at night).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ONUW is a game that is essentially played in a single round, with the aim of distilling a lot of the discussion and voting of Werewolf and removing the player elimination factor. In addition, it adds roles that mean that players may not be entirely sure of their role once discussion starts. It still has the informed minority versus the uninformed majority, but it then takes things in quite a different direction and it contains some very different roles (as well as some similar ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, you could possibly use the role cards from one to play the other, but you'd then need to know enough of the rules to explain what each role actually does since the card's text would often be completely inaccurate for what the role does in the other game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T03:29:12.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20449" CreationDate="2014-10-24T03:37:19.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature with two +1/+1 counters has a +1/+1 counter, so &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abzan%20Battle%20Priest&quot;&gt;Abzan Battle Priest&lt;/a&gt;'s static ability will grant that creature lifelink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that being granted +1/+1 and having a +1/+1 counter are very different. If you control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dauntless%20River%20Marshal&quot;&gt;Dauntless River Marshal&lt;/a&gt;, Abzan Battle Priest and an Island, the Marshal won't be granted Lifelink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T10:47:39.017" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T10:47:39.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20454" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:12:28.010" Score="13" ViewCount="18523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I land on someone's hotel. I'm short in cash. So, I sell houses, mortgage everything, and am still short in cash. I am now out of the game and that player gets my money and mortgaged properties. If I remember right, they pay the 10% tax or unmortgage at that time. And the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's say I had just barely enough cash to pay them. I'm safe and still in the game. I've got nearly zero money and all my stuff is mortgaged. The next turn I land on chance/community chest/luxury tax/jail and I need to pay the bank. I cannot pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who gets the properties? Do they disappear from the game? Go back for sale as mortgaged? Unmortgaged?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastEditorUserId="10217" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T18:30:26.557" LastActivityDate="2020-02-10T00:43:32.820" Title="What happens if you go bankrupt trying to pay the bank?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20453" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:27:27.227" Score="3" ViewCount="4457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I control &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380374&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent casts an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373604&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;. I'm fairly sure any creatures I own that die this turn are just exiled without Athreos' ability triggering, but I can't bring to mind a concrete explanation of exactly why that's the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain how abilities that trigger when a creature dies interact with effects along the lines of &quot;If X would die this turn, do Y with it instead&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7888" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T14:31:48.967" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T16:06:22.723" Title="If Anger of the Gods kills a creature, does it still trigger death effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-10-24T22:48:54.443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20452" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:31:10.613" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my understanding they all go back to the bank. They all then actually got auctioned off (I thought they went back for sale like at the start of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should you owe the Bank, instead of another player, more than you &#xA;  can pay (because of taxes or penalties) even by selling off buildings &#xA;  and mortgaging property, you must turn over all assets to the Bank. In &#xA;  this case, the Bank immediately sells by auction all property so taken, &#xA;  except buildings. A bankrupt player must immediately retire from the &#xA;  game. The last player left in the game wins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken from the final Bankruptcy page from the offical &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;Hasbro Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would add that I would treat the properties as unmortgaged for the purposes off re-selling them and deem that as the mortgage loan was owed to the bank, they would write off that debt if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T12:31:10.613" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20483" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:54:30.390" Score="0" ViewCount="315" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/124172/tsuro-seas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tsuro of the Seas&lt;/a&gt;, when a daikaiju &lt;em&gt;moves&lt;/em&gt; adjacent to a player's ship, that player is eliminated. What if another player rolls a 6 to put a daikaiju on the board, and the square rolled is next to a player's ship? Is that player eliminated, or are they unaffected and have a chance for the daikaiju to move before their turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-24T12:59:25.973" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T23:57:47.153" Title="Does a daikaiju kill off a player if it appears next to them?" Tags="|tsuro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20453" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:56:29.733" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature never died, so the ability doesn't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anger of the Gods creates a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. [...] Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1a Effects that use the word “instead” are replacement effects. Most replacement effects use the word “instead” to indicate what events will be replaced with other events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the creatures never went to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens. A modified event occurs instead, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can’t be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the creatures never died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an ability that triggered on a creature being exiled, that ability would trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T14:49:19.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20453" CreationDate="2014-10-24T12:59:57.493" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dies is short for &quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield&quot;. Anger of the Gods say exile instead of dies (replacement effect), so the Athreos trigger will not be triggered because it completely replaces the die keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;419.1. Replacement and prevention effects are continuous effects that watch for a particular event to happen and then completely or partially replace that event. These effects act like &quot;shields&quot; around whatever they're affecting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T12:59:57.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2014-10-24T16:48:04.907" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Queen is without question the most powerful piece on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a much different opinion on the 2nd most valuable piece(s) on the board, at least for all beginning to intermediate levels of skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Knights are extremely dangerous for their ability to threaten 8 widely separated positions at the same time and to immediately move to another positions that threatens a different 8 widely separated positions.  The ability of the knight to move 4 positions to put a King in check and at the same time threaten 7 other positions makes the Knight incredibly versatile and extremely dangerous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until a player achieves this understanding and is able to visualize the danger zones for both of the opposing knights, they are easily the second most dangerous pieces on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9825" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T16:48:04.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2014-10-24T17:12:23.443" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having more than four players seems like it would be a lot more chaotic, cause they probably play tested the game and chose that number for that reason, I played a game called 7 wonders with a group of friends, and we had 7 people and the game is a 2 to 7 player game, and I will never have 7 people play it again, was supposed to be half an hour at most, it took us 1 to 2 hours, so, adding more players to Love letter might be more chaotic than you want, but give it a try, it doesn't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9826" LastActivityDate="2014-10-24T17:12:23.443" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20452" CreationDate="2014-10-24T22:54:46.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get the &quot;bad&quot; Chance or Community Chest card that has you owing more money to the the bank than you can pay, the bank is your creditor, and you must turn over your property &quot;as is&quot; to the bank, just like any other creditor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bank is unlike a &quot;normal&quot; creditor, insofar it gets to &quot;unmortgage&quot; your property for &quot;free.&quot; The bank will auction your landed property as in &quot;real life.&quot; The houses and hotels go back into the common pool of 32 houses and 12 hotels. If there is a &quot;housing shortage,&quot; there might be a separate auction for those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are alone against one opponent, you will lose the game immediately. If there are two or more, it shouldn't be hard to persuade at least ONE of them to bail you out by buying one key property for as much you owe or more. Ideally, you will have your opponents fight for the privilege of bailing you out. If you have to go down, go down, fighting, and at least try for the privilege of being &quot;kingmaker&quot; among your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2019-12-15T01:02:00.077" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T01:02:00.077" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4448" CreationDate="2014-10-25T02:09:03.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh, my.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I finally digested the site you referenced.  It reminded me that creating a website doesn't require a degree or certification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an awful lot of discussion on this particular thread which takes for granted this site offered sound advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It absolutely does not.  In fact, there are six pages' worth of advice which will quickly make you a mediocre player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the situation referenced, I can not think of a hand where I would call trump of the opposite bower.  I would not call anything whatsoever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One quick aside about advice from that site which was touched on here: I have always played by the rule that, unless you have one card of a particular suit, you may not call that as trump.  Violating this is considered a form of cheating, which incurs terms agreed upon by house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9788" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T02:09:03.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20463" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-25T02:39:10.800" Score="2" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Yahtzee with people with differing strategies.  Some, I'm not so sure I agree with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll for 6's every time&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;One friend believes that if he tries to roll 6's on every throw, he'll end up with a high 6 roll, sixes for his 3-of-a-kind, 4-of-a-kind, chance, and Yahtzees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found this strategy to blow up in my face all too often; not enough attention is paid to rolls of the lower pips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll for Yahtzees every throw&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Another friend plays in this mode all the time.  Similar to rolling for 6's, this one is a little better...it incorporates the other pips.  This strategy is a compromise between the first one, and my general strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Just roll with it&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I find it best to focus on generating Mojo on my first roll, and going wherever the dice point to.  If I'm presented a 2-3-4, or 3-4-5, my mode goes into straights.  If I am presented a collection of the same pips, I focus on trying to get 3+ of the same.  I think it might be most important to get at minimum 3 of each for the top bonus.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, on my first roll if I get two pair, especially early in the game, I often pass up going for a full house.  Although I can't back it statistically, I feel it's easy to land a full house in Yahtzee.  This one backfires on me every so often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does anyone have a solid Yahtzee strategy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9788" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-25T02:49:06.387" LastActivityDate="2014-10-25T02:49:06.387" Title="What is your overall Yahtzee strategy?" Tags="|yahtzee|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-10-25T20:11:14.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20465" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-25T20:31:40.700" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thinking about using an existing game as inspiration for a new version of the game, and wonder how to go about doing this in a way that if for some odd, unlikely reason that my version takes off that it's unlikely that I'll have legal liabilities that at best would have been avoidable.  How to use an existing game legally for inspiration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9819" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T00:47:29.233" Title="How to use an existing game legally for inspiration?" Tags="|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T00:35:41.273" Score="-1" ViewCount="10459" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any Magic cards that nullify activated abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: My apologies for such an easily query-able answer. I was not aware of the existence o such comprehensive databases and easily-searchable databases like magiccards.info before posting these questions. I will surely do more research from now on. Thank you!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="9834" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T16:27:28.567" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T16:27:28.567" Title="Are there Magic cards that counter activated abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20468" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20471" CreationDate="2014-10-26T00:42:20.543" Score="0" ViewCount="7881" Body="&lt;p&gt;What creatures across all sets and expansions have the ability to inflict direct damage, à la &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prodigal%20Sorcerer&quot;&gt;Prodigal Sorcerer&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any Enchant Creature spells that have target creature gain &amp;quot;Tap to do 1 damage to target creature or player&amp;quot; or something similar?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: My apologies for such an easily query-able answer. I was not aware of the existence o such comprehensive databases and easily-searchable databases like magiccards.info before posting these questions. I will surely do more research from now on. Thank you!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="9834" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T16:27:50.760" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:46:09.197" Title="Which enchantments allow tapping a creature to inflict direct damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20467" CreationDate="2014-10-26T00:53:51.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's several: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5Bcounter%5D+%5Btarget%5D+%5Bactivated%5D+%5Bability%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Gatherer search&lt;/a&gt; covers cards with the words &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;counter target activated ability&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; in their rules text (not necessarily in that exact order), which covers that exact phrase and small variatons on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time of writing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instants that counter any activated ability: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bind&quot;&gt;Bind&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Squelch&quot;&gt;Squelch&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trickbind&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidslime&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instants that only deal with certain varieties: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Interdict&quot;&gt;Interdict&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rust&quot;&gt;Rust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creatures which counter any activated ability: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Azorius Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidmage%20Husher&quot;&gt;Voidmage Husher&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rimewind%20Cryomancer&quot;&gt;Rimewind Cryomancer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creatures which only deal with certain varieties: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ouphe%20Vandals&quot;&gt;Ouphe Vandals&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ayesha%20Tanaka&quot;&gt;Ayesha Tanaka&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brown%20Ouphe&quot;&gt;Brown Ouphe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For far more nuclear options, there's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; amd &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;, which exile &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; on the stack as part of the turn ending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T03:05:20.877" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T03:05:20.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20467" CreationDate="2014-10-26T00:58:18.370" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several cards that counter activated abilities. They are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ayesha%20Tanaka&quot;&gt;Ayesha Tanaka&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (only from artifact sources)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Azorius Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bind&quot;&gt;Bind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brown%20Ouphe&quot;&gt;Brown Ouphe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (only from artifact sources)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Interdict&quot;&gt;Interdict&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (only from artifacts, creatures, enchantments, and lands. It also prevents that permanent from activating abilities for the rest of the turn.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ouphe%20Vandals&quot;&gt;Ouphe Vandals&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (only from artifact sources. Also destroys the artifact.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rimewind%20Cryomancer&quot;&gt;Rimewind Cryomancer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rust&quot;&gt;Rust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (only from artifacts)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Squelch&quot;&gt;Squelch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (also hits triggered abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trickbind&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (also hits triggered abilities, and prevents that permanent from activating abilities for the rest of the turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidmage%20Husher&quot;&gt;Voidmage Husher&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidslime&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (also hits triggered abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also cards that prevent activated abilities from being activated. You can find cards that do that with a Gatherer search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22can%27t%20be%20activated%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;can't be activated&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; There are a bunch of these, but the highlights are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arrest&quot;&gt;Arrest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (An aura that prevents the creature from attacking, blocking, or activating abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Linvala%2C%20Keeper%20of%20Silence&quot;&gt;Linvala, Keeper of Silence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Prevents any creature your opponent controls from activating abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Null%20Rod&quot;&gt;Null Rod&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Prevents all artifacts from activating abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Revoker&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Lets you name a card, and stops any permanent with that name from activating abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (Basically the same effect as Phyrexian Revoker, but can't stop mana abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Michael Snook points out, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; end the turn immediately, and that includes exiling anything on the stack, including activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T15:10:06.137" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T15:10:06.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20468" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:08:04.633" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few Aura cards that grant creatures the ability to tap to deal damage to a target (some with more restrictions than others). To find these cards, I used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;magiccards.info&lt;/a&gt; search &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22Enchant+Creature%22+o%3A%22Enchanted+creature+has%22+o%3Adeal+o%3A%22%7BT%7D%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;o:&amp;quot;Enchant Creature&amp;quot; o:&amp;quot;Enchanted creature has&amp;quot; o:deal o:&amp;quot;{T}&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;, which finds Auras that enchant creatures that mention dealing damage and have an ability with a tap cost. Those cards are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archery%20Training&quot;&gt;Archery Training&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, you may put an arrow counter on Archery Training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals X damage to target attacking or blocking creature, where X is the number of arrow counters on Archery Training.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning%20Anger&quot;&gt;Burning Anger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals damage equal to its power to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fire%20Whip&quot;&gt;Fire Whip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant creature you control&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice Fire Whip: Fire Whip deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hermetic%20Study&quot;&gt;Hermetic Study&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypervolt%20Grasp&quot;&gt;Hypervolt Grasp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}{U}: Return Hypervolt Grasp to its owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lavamancer%27s%20Skill&quot;&gt;Lavamancer&amp;#39;s Skill&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as enchanted creature is a Wizard, it has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 2 damage to target creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Prowess&quot;&gt;Lightning Prowess&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has haste and &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Power%20of%20Fire&quot;&gt;Power of Fire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Predatory%20Urge&quot;&gt;Predatory Urge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals damage equal to its power to target creature. That creature deals damage equal to its power to this creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psionic%20Gift&quot;&gt;Psionic Gift&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Dagger&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Dagger&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals 1 damage to target player. You draw a card.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sinstriker%27s%20Will&quot;&gt;Sinstriker&amp;#39;s Will&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &amp;quot;{T}: This creature deals damage equal to its power to target attacking or blocking creature.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T20:46:09.197" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:46:09.197" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20474" CreationDate="2014-10-26T01:42:36.103" Score="2" ViewCount="12878" Body="&lt;p&gt;What cards across all sets allow the utilization of mana, either colorless or otherwise, as colored mana of another color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One early example with an unlimited  1:1 ratio:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sunglasses of Urza&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Continuous Artifact: White mana in your mana pool can also be used as red mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What other cards have similar abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T03:00:45.263" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:31:10.840" Title="Cards changing mana color" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20472" CreationDate="2014-10-26T03:00:19.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22mana%20as%20though%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nine cards&lt;/a&gt; that allow you to spend mana as though it were another color:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt; lets you spend mana as though it were mana of any color without restriction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daxos%20of%20Meletis&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psychic%20Intrusion&quot;&gt;Psychic Intrusion&lt;/a&gt; allow you to cast a spell from an opponent's library, and allow you to spend mana as though it were mana of any color when paying that spell's cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Celestial%20Dawn&quot;&gt;Celestial Dawn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Dawn&quot;&gt;False Dawn&lt;/a&gt; both let you tap your lands for white mana and spend white mana as though it were mana of any color. False Dawn additionally makes any other mana you generate white.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=North%20Star&quot;&gt;North Star&lt;/a&gt; lets you spend mana as though it were mana of any color for a single spell, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382393&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unexpected Potential&lt;/a&gt; lets you spend mana as though it were mana of any color for spells with a chosen name.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Elemental&lt;/a&gt; lets you spend blue mana as though it were mana of any color for its own abilities (which it copies from other creatures).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunglasses%20of%20Urza&quot;&gt;Sunglasses of Urza&lt;/a&gt; lets you spend white mana as though it were red.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22%7D%2C%20%7BT%7D%3A%20Add%22%20or%20%28o%3A%22%7D%3A%20Add%22%20-o%3A%22%7BT%7D%22%29%20%28o%3A%22Add%20%7BW%22%20or%20o%3A%22Add%20%7BU%22%20or%20o%3A%22Add%20%7BB%22%20or%20o%3A%22Add%20%7BR%22%20or%20o%3A%22Add%20%7BG%22%20or%20o%3A%22Add%20one%20mana%22%29&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;58 cards&lt;/a&gt; that allow you to spend mana to get colored mana. I'm not going to list all of them, but here are some highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bog%20Initiate&quot;&gt;Bog Initiate&lt;/a&gt; filters an arbitrary amount of mana into black mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Farrelite%20Priest&quot;&gt;Farrelite Priest&lt;/a&gt; filters an arbitrary amount of mana into white mana, with the caveat that you have to sacrifice it if you activate the ability 4 or more times in one turn. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Initiates%20of%20the%20Ebon%20Hand&quot;&gt;Initiates of the Ebon Hand&lt;/a&gt; does the same for black mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Orochi%20Leafcaller&quot;&gt;Orochi Leafcaller&lt;/a&gt; filters an arbitrary amount of green mana into mana of any color. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nomadic%20Elf&quot;&gt;Nomadic Elf&lt;/a&gt; does the same, but at an additional cost of one mana per mana generated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cycle of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=An-Havva%20Township&quot;&gt;An-Havva Township&lt;/a&gt;, which let you tap and pay one mana for one color, or tap and pay two mana for your choice of two other colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cycle of lands from Eventide like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cascade%20Bluffs&quot;&gt;Cascade Bluffs&lt;/a&gt;, which let you tap and pay one mana in your choice of two colors to get two mana in any combination of those colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A cycle of lands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkwater%20Catacombs&quot;&gt;Darkwater Catacombs&lt;/a&gt;, which let you tap and pay one mana to get one mana in each of two colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Ravnica guild signets, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Signet&quot;&gt;Boros Signet&lt;/a&gt;, which let you tap and pay one mana to get one mana in each of the guild's two colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The land &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crystal%20Quarry&quot;&gt;Crystal Quarry&lt;/a&gt;, which lets you tap and pay 5 mana to get one mana of each color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T17:31:10.840" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T17:31:10.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T08:17:28.713" Score="4" ViewCount="16290" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question: If players are able to discuss strategy before playing Avalon, does the game have an optimal solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy can be as convoluted as you want.  I just want to know if &lt;em&gt;in principle&lt;/em&gt; this is a &quot;solved&quot; game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game rules are fairly simple and for reference the details of number of good vs evil players, and rounds can be read here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Resistance_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Resistance_(game)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are G good and E evil players, at the end of the game team evil can always just randomly guess Merlin to win.  So an optimal solution will be defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for team good, a strategy in which (regardless of what team evil chooses to do) they can guarantee succeeding at least 3 missions and team evil can't do any better than 1/G chance of choosing Merlin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;for team evil, a strategy which (regardless of what team good chooses to do) maximizes their chance of winning the game, with a chance greater than the trivial solution of guessing with chance 1/G&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the rules are not entirely clear on what communication the players may do (besides forbidding just directly showing their character cards), for the purposes of this question, consider the following rule on communication (if playing by email, it would be equivalent to every message must be sent to all):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cannot rely on 'under the table' note passing, texting, etc.  All statements made by a player must be public, in the sense that the every player has the raw message (even if not all players have enough context to derive the same meaning - ie. an Evil person stating he is Merlin is never confusing to an evil character since the evil characters all know each other, but can be misleading to a good character. Only the raw message itself must be public, asymmetric knowledge of intentions gained from a message is fine.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a suspicion that despite not being able to trust any particular character is telling the truth, there might be a solution in favor of the good characters which takes advantage of the inherent asymmetry caused by the character Merlin and there always being more good characters than evil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9835" LastEditorUserId="9835" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T02:28:11.523" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:03:30.103" Title="Solution to Avalon board game" Tags="|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22840" CreationDate="2014-10-26T09:14:35.383" Score="3" ViewCount="1302" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the Sacred Pool expansion which adds a bunch of war horses to the game for the Dread Knight's sake. If you obtain two war horses, is there any reason their effects would not stack? May I add my craft to my strength in battle twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7169" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T01:12:14.593" Title="Talisman - Do war horse effects stack?" Tags="|talisman|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20479" CreationDate="2014-10-26T15:40:29.607" Score="4" ViewCount="799" Body="&lt;p&gt;When cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; that immediately end the turn are cast, are players subject to mana burn for excess mana in their mana pools?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T15:02:34.000" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T12:14:56.407" Title="Does immediately ending the turn cause mana burn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20478" CreationDate="2014-10-26T16:08:52.343" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana burn does not exist as a rule in MTG anymore. It was removed from the rules when they released the 2010 core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120014846/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;You can read the introduction of the Magic 2010 rules changes here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when the mana burn rule did exist, Time Stop still would cause a player to lose life due to mana burn. This is because mana burn happened automatically whenever a phase ended, and time stop caused the current phase to end. Mana burn did not use the stack, and was simply an automatic game action that occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-06-16T12:14:56.407" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T12:14:56.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:44:22.543" Score="0" ViewCount="3339" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any magic cards that allow for direct manipulation of arbitrary counter types? Eg, &quot;Add a counter of any kind to target permanent&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point (2014) I would be surprised if something along these lines didn't exist in some form or another, its ridiculously powerful abuse potential notwithstanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: My apologies for such an easily query-able answer. I was not aware of the existence o such comprehensive databases and easily-searchable databases like magiccards.info before posting these questions. I will surely do more research from now on. Thank you!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="9834" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T16:27:11.300" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T16:27:11.300" Title="Which cards feature direct manipulation of counter types on permanents?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20480" CreationDate="2014-10-26T17:53:25.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clockspinning&quot;&gt;Clockspinning&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gilder%20Bairn&quot;&gt;Gilder Bairn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vorel%20of%20the%20Hull%20Clade&quot;&gt;Vorel of the Hull Clade&lt;/a&gt; allow you to add another counter of a kind that already exists on a permanent, and so does the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Aproliferate&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Proliferate&lt;/a&gt; keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doubling%20Season&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt; which doubles the number of counters placed on permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-10-26T21:52:34.780" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T21:52:34.780" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20455" CreationDate="2014-10-26T23:57:47.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.calliopegames.com/index.php?page=shop.getfile&amp;amp;file_id=68&amp;amp;product_id=77&amp;amp;option=com_virtuemart&amp;amp;Itemid=&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The official rules&lt;/a&gt; are maybe a little vague on the matter, but extrapolating from the context of the other rules, the way I have always interpreted them as is that a player is only eliminated if they are forced to move off the board, into a loop, or onto the same tile as a daikaiju - or, if it's their turn to play a wake tile but they cannot because there's a daikaiju directly in front of them. So my interpretation is that placing a daikaiju adjacent to some who is not the active player is the same as moving them to that space, and they are not eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-10-26T23:57:47.153" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18719" CreationDate="2014-10-27T01:15:48.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take away a single unstarred order token from your set. Which one depends on how much handicap you think is needed. A &lt;em&gt;huge&lt;/em&gt; handicap would be to remove a march token. A &lt;em&gt;big&lt;/em&gt; handicap is to remove a support token or a defense token. A &lt;em&gt;significant&lt;/em&gt; handicap would be to remove a consolidate power or raid token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find those handicaps too hard on you, you can also try playing without an order token for a few turns (say, 3-5 turns) and then getting them back. Or, maybe, play the first 3 turns without a march token, then 1 turn without each one of the remaining tokens, then with all of them. This will make the game &lt;strong&gt;much&lt;/strong&gt; harder to you, but then you'll not need to feel bad about doing your best against your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something I do when I'm teaching the game is, for the first 3 rounds, play my orders facing up and explain the strategy. This shows players some possibilities they did not understand they could do and open their minds to new tactics. You can't do that for too long though, specially in games with more than 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T10:35:46.760" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T10:35:46.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20465" CreationDate="2014-10-27T07:49:17.883" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Welcome to the awful world of copyright, intellectual property, license and patent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, a game is not an invention: you can't patent it. Taking inspiration from another game would be a problem of intellectual property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intellectual property is a very fragile notion. In fact, in most countries, taking the character of Pikachu, making it blue with green stripes and calling it Mikichu is legal, because it's not the same character. I'm not sure you want to do that anyway: that would be taunting Pokémon and they would probably take legal measure against you anyway. (I'm sure their lawyers already know how).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, if it is for some sort of mechanics, don't worry. There are plenty of games that share the same mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rolling 2 dice and using the mathematical property that 7 comes out more often is used in Catan and Can't Stop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being forced to draw a negative card at the end of the turn is used in both in Pandemic and Shadow over Camelot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Building the board as you play is used in both Carcassonne and Takenoko.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you still have a doubt about what I'm saying, I only have two words for you: &quot;Mafia&quot; and &quot;Werewolves&quot;. These games are literally the same with a slight difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be sure you are not accused of stealing anything, it's exactly like when you write a book or an essay: cite your sources. Add at the end of your rulebook: &quot;Thanks to Monopoly for the inspiration&quot;, or even better &quot;If you liked this game, make sure to try Monopoly, from which I took my inspiration&quot;. The creator of the other game will be thrilled to have free publicity. Most game creators don't do that (because it's not at all something required), but if you feel it that way, please yourself!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T00:47:29.233" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T00:47:29.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12254" CreationDate="2014-10-27T13:42:56.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In monopoly there are two kinds of cards that move you around the board.  Ones are that keep moving you clockwise until you hit the set square.  This is one of them.  On those cards it says to collect 200 if you pass go.  In this case you are landing on it directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other types of cards move you directly to a square.  This may be the only one but it makes the point. &quot;Go directly to jail, do not pass go do not collect $200&quot;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6OFAa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Go o jail&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, the reason that text is on the card is just to differentiate it from the go to jail card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T13:42:56.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20490" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T13:59:46.790" Score="2" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played chapter 3 of Mice and Mystics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We defeated Brodie on a tile who appeared as the result of the special surge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the next tile, the clock wheel was again full of cheese and the special surge was again Brodie. Should he appear again, even if he has been defeated just before ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when a mouse or a minion attacks and there is no sword or bow appearing on the dice, is it necessary for the opponent to defend ? (and to obtain possibly some cheese).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, after the dice game, if no rats were defeated, do we agree that 2 elite rats and 3 regular rats are on the tile ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6891" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T15:11:08.883" Title="mice and mystics rules clarification" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20490" CreationDate="2014-10-27T15:11:08.883" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend breaking this up into 3 separate questions, which would help searchers to find specific answers better and help with keeping answers 'on topic'. That being said, here's what I know about these 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Defeating' Brodie doesn't mean he's dead, it just means you made him leave the area. So you poked him a few times, he ran off to (literally) lick his wounds, and then came back in the next tile for revenge. So yes, it is entirely possible for you to encounter Brodie in a tile, defeat him, and then on the next tile encounter Brodie 2: Brodie's Revenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rule book under Battle: Melee Attack (pages 10 &amp;amp; 11), it instructs you to roll your attack and (Emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add the number of sword and sword/shield symbols rolled for that attack. This is the number of hits the mouse has inflicted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a mouse inflicted one or more hits&lt;/strong&gt;, the player to the left of the active player rolls defense for the targeted minion and adds the number of sword/shield results rolled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you only roll defense dice if one or more hits are rolled. No free cheese!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your last question isn't ringing any bells, but it has been a couple of months since I've played M&amp;amp;M, so I might just need to pull out the scenario book when I get home, but if you could clarify it a bit here it might jog my memory and I could edit this and answer that one as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T15:11:08.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3626" CreationDate="2014-10-27T16:41:05.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no middle-ground.  The reality is assuming optimal Axis and Allied play the allies should always win as shuck-shuck should effectively weaken/spread German fronts before Japan can sufficiently bring the heat on Russia.  The &quot;Russia no first round attack&quot; house rule is necessary to limit this Allied advantage by preventing the 3-5pts of additional IPC's Russia can take in the first 1-2 rounds by aggressively targeting Finland/Manchuria.  Keep in mind, this house rule should only be used if you have advanced players because the allies starting advantage can only be exploited by those with enough experience in setting up shuck-shuck under OPTIMAL axis play (too often Axis players attack too early w/Germany sealing their own fate.  Proper axis play is for Germany to hold-out until Japan comes, thus only purchasing infantry and perhaps fighters if/when they need their last suicide on the navy in UK to delay the eventual shuck-shuck if only for 1-2 turns).  Few points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scott's allied play follows optimal logic (Russia's ability to wipe Axis navy before Germany's attack is crucial as it materially weakens Germany's Luftwaffe, allowing earlier shuck-shuck implementation).  Thus Russia can't be allowed to attack land OR navy units. Either outcome is too great of an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adam's Germany response to attack Karelia can only be based on non-optimal Allied play.  Russia really only has 1 move, to move all infantry to Karelia leaving 1 piece in Caucas to prevent a blitz into Russia.  In reality Karelia should be defended by 22 Infantry/tanks and 2 fighters thus Germany shouldn't attack in it's round 1.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T17:13:39.703" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:13:39.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3746" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:11:04.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adam's and Scott's comments here are very sound, and both follow the logic of OPTIMAL allied play. I'm interested to hear from either of you if you've ever played against OPTIMAL Axis play as I define it (the reason is my group of friends have never successfully implemented optimal shuck-shuck and I always win as axis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rd.1&#xA;Germany builds 10 infantry.  COMBAT: successfully takes out all Russia/British navy including the transport in Eastern Canada and only loses 1 fighter, sometimes 0.  FREE MOVE: moves 2 infantry to Africa setting up to take Egypt in Rd. 2 (attacking Rd.1 is 50/50 and the downside is too great if you lose). Move infantry to collect in Eastern Europe, with 4 fighters on Western Europe you only need 2-3 infantry as defense until Allies have re-filled their transports).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Japan builds 2 transports, 3 infantry.  COMBAT: take Pearl, take Manchuria (if Russia attacked), take Eastern China (leave all 4 remaining fighters on Kwangtung, don't send a fighter into Pearl Harbor, use the Bomber).  With 3-4 transports around Japan and +5 infantry on Japan and surrounding islands this allows Japan to build an IC unit in round 2 while still building Infantry for those remaining transports.  Thereafter Japan's IPC spend moves towards tanks and the second mainland IC, and then tanks therafter as the transports finish sending whatever infantry are left from the initial purchases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) GERMANY LONG TERM SUCESS: This is what my strategy sets up for.. by Germany's round 3, they will need to suicide their entire airforce to destroy whatever navy the Allies have built to establish shuck-shuck.  Most often I see US or UK building an Aircraft carrier supported by lots of transports, thus by Germany's Round 3 there are 4-5 transports and 1 AC w/2 fighters in the UK. IT IS IMPERITIVE IF GERMANY SEES THIS HAPPENING THEY BUILD 1-2 FIGHTERS in Rd. 2.  If Germany attacks this force with 6 fighters and 1 bomber Axis will win and typically have 1 fighter remaining maybe 2 if lucky.  CONCLUSION: After this suicide the Axis can no longer afford to replace their airforce (said differently, UK easily builds another AC knowing it would take Germany to build 3 fighters to be worth it, thus forcing Germany to instead go defensive and concede to shuck-shuck).  This allows shuck-shuck to begin with troops attacking by Round 4 (transports need to be produced after Germany's suicide in their attacking round 3).  PROVIDED Germany has only built Infantry and no tanks aside from the fighter(s), they can now hold Eastern and Western for another 2-3 turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) NOW, as Japan, knowing you have 6 turns to take over India, have 2 IC's setup and steady production of 6 tanks and some extra savings each turn... if you play Japan well this is more than enough time to be knocking on Russia's door.  As a result... yes Shuck-Shuck is operational (and Germany's Luftwaffe is essentially gone), but Germany can replace whatever infantry are destroyed by the initial UK/US shuck-shuck battles beginning round 5-6 while Russia CAN NO LONGER attack - they must build Infantry to stay in Russia. This is the key US/UK forces are not great enough to make a dent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Bottom line, OPTIMAL AXIS play is for Germany to build infantry day 1 and perhaps 1/2 fighters for an eventual suicide to delay shuck-shuck.  Knowing this strategy gives Japan 5-6 turns, allows Japan to take their time building 2 transports, 3 infantry round 1 vs. rushing to build the IC.  While this means Japan is knocking on Russia's door at Rd.5 instead of rd.4 - Japan is doing it with a much more meaningful force supported by more infantry on the ground vs. a rushed play (and Germany bought you this extra round with their Luftwaffe suicide). Well supported pressure from Japan w/infantry ensures Russia gives due attention back to Russia.  I have always won with this play but I have also won knowing I'm playing competition that hasn't set up an optimal allied response knowing I'm going to suicide my fighters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:11:04.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:14:02.937" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is far greater spend then an IC in Australia (given it's remote location and subsequent need for transports to make an impact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) IC in India, just as temporary defense&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OR &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) all spend is UK focused with Fighters to defend Russia or Bombers to take away from Germany, and transports to support US shuck-shuck once they put a Battleship/Aircraft Carrier into UK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:14:02.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20496" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:23:52.247" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T17:23:52.247" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T17:23:52.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20497" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-27T17:23:52.247" Score="0" Body="The card game version of The Game of Life." OwnerUserId="9843" LastEditorUserId="9843" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T10:14:50.813" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T10:14:50.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4943" CreationDate="2014-10-27T20:09:55.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No! Japan should do no such thing. Here's my opinion of the right Japanese first moves (assuming no 1st rd. attack by Russia):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Assuming UK has built an IC on India:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan Build: 2 Transports, 3 Infantry&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan Attack: Pearl Harbor 2 Battleships, 1 Sub, 1 Aircraft Carrier, 1 Fighter, 1 Bomber&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The battleships can't free-shot since Manchuria hasn't been taken, thus send them both to Pearl Harbor.  You should win this battle round 1 and be left with the Battleships, Aircraft Carrier and Fighter.  This ensures America uses its Battleship/Transport/1 Bomber and 1-2 Fighters on its turn to wipe you out (a great trade to keep US fighters out of the Atlantic where they are better used to protect Karelia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan uses its 2 transports to land 4 infantry on Manchuria/French Indo-China.  Japan uses its 3 fighters (the fighter on Philipines can't attack rd. 1 as it's too far) to support troops from Kwangtung/Manchuria to press into Eastern China. This way you kill U.S.'s fighter and troops remaining can either attack India or Manchuria depending on Russia/UK moves going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Don't strike Sikang - it immediately places a weak surviving army at the mercy of UK troops. Instead leave a stronger surviving army drawing from Manchuria/Kwangtung troops into China as this consolidates a more core position (if any of your border countries are attacked you can more easily draw from more countries in subsequent counters).  The biggest key to Japan is to methodically grow by winning battles using big forces to take on smaller allied forces caught off-side with the aide of the maneuverability Japan's 4 fighters and 1 bomber offer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T23:59:51.350" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T23:59:51.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2014-10-27T20:16:28.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agree with Kirt that U.S. must send most/all its resources into the Atlantic, simple math says Russia/U.K./U.S. dollar spend focused solely on Germany ensures Germany's upfront IPC advantage is quickly trumped and overtaken before Japan can mount enough pressure on Russia to relive pressure.  Problem is I think Kirt has too often played weak Japanese players - a well played Japan has troops marching into Eastern territories of Russia, and all U.S. forces/land taken by the end of their 2nd round, leaving the only the last battle for India (which depends on if UK built an IC or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:16:28.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3667" CreationDate="2014-10-27T20:21:16.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, all advice mentioned above explaining why Shuck Shuck should always trump other strategies is valid. Further to the point - U.K./Russia already start out with 4 fighters which placed with +20 infantry in Karelia will stand as significant defense (assumes UK keeps its fighter in India to delay Japan).  The U.S. will also bring a fighter by round 2/3 depending on how they react to Pearl Harbor.  Either way, the initial 4-5 fighters if placed on Karelia together with Russia's +20 infantry quickly provide the necessary defensive fire power to force Germany into its hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:21:16.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11920" CreationDate="2014-10-27T20:32:27.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This response for Japan First is based on the 1986 Second Edition version and assumes No Russia Attack first round house rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The allies should under no circumstance look to divert SIGNIFICANT RESOURCES (i.e. more than U.K.'s dollars to an India IC/tanks thereafter).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you send more dollars (U.S. IC, Russia support, etc), you are weakening the Shuck-Shuck which ultimately means a delay to round 4 assuming a smart Axis German player will suicide his fighters on a weakened initial shuck-shuck attempt. ORRR you are needlessly increasing Germany's short initial window to attack Russia by not placing all Russia defense troops possible of reaching Karelia as defense.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allies should concentrate their initial 90 IPCs as much as possible towards Germany's 32 IPC's, this tilts the ground war in their favor the quickest as Germany starts out with an IPC advantage day 1 which must be overcome via Infantry-push tactics.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9765" LastEditorUserId="9765" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T20:37:32.863" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T20:37:32.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-27T23:09:15.400" Score="3" ViewCount="1584" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Awakening&quot;&gt;Awakening&lt;/a&gt;, could I tap all lands immediately after my untap step and then have them untap upon entering my upkeep? I ask this because I'm trying to maximize &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omnath%2C%20Locus%20of%20Mana&quot;&gt;Omnath, Locus of Mana&lt;/a&gt; as my commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9844" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-10-28T00:33:24.040" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T00:33:24.040" Title="Will Awakening let me tap all my lands and get them immediately untapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20503" CreationDate="2014-10-27T23:46:43.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use Awakening to tap your lands twice in one turn, but not exactly in the way you expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with your untap step, play proceeds as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Untap_Step&quot;&gt;untap step&lt;/a&gt; starts, and all of your permanents untap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Upkeep_Step&quot;&gt;upkeep step&lt;/a&gt; starts, and Awakening's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;triggered ability&lt;/a&gt; goes on the stack. You gain &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;priority&lt;/a&gt;. This is your first opportunity to do anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can now tap your permanents to add mana to your mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Awakening's ability resolves, and all of your lands and creatures untap.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-27T23:57:21.080" LastActivityDate="2014-10-27T23:57:21.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2014-10-28T01:42:04.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have hit 266. I remember when I thought 200 was really high. 295 is the highest I've seen but I don't have a blueprint for it. Miami is a very important city. Basically I usually try to connect LA to Vancouver and NY, going more south if I can. Then try to get down to Miami. Watch your train count. Once I have a my 3 corners I'll try to keep drawing routes as long as I can, making sure I fill in the path to Miami along the way without triggering a last turn. Do this and you may not ever get 295 but you will eventually beat your wife (if she hasn't figured this out already)&#xA;It may be worth noting that if the computer draws a few routes it may mess you up as to what's left. &#xA;Thanks for other answers as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9846" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T01:42:04.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2014-10-28T03:15:36.093" Score="-8" Body="&lt;p&gt;just use a 12 sided die.its so easy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9848" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T03:15:36.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2014-10-28T10:07:33.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.happymeeple.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;HAPPY MEEPLE&lt;/a&gt; - Beginner-friendly platform&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Happy Meeple is the only beginner-friendly platform targeting players who don't necessarily know anything about modern games. It has great 2-player quick-playing gateway games. If you want your friends to get into the board game hobby, this is where you should send them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Games&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lost Cities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finito&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Migrato&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Level X&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Siberia Card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keltis Card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keltis Ór&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Operating system&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Browser-based (=works everywhere).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play mode&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Real-time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ease of use&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very easy. The whole platform is intended for a casual audience. &lt;strong&gt;All games come with a tutorial&lt;/strong&gt; in 5 languages (English, German, French, Spanish, Turkish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interface is simple, uncluttered. Starting to play is 2 clicks away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other features&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All games come with strong AI (and not so strong for beginners).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All games come with sound FX and music.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All games come with animations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All games come with a help page (and tutorial see above).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-match system, no waiting time. Play in 10 seconds max.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Meta-game: build your world, collect meeples&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Main chat and game chat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.happymeeple.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Play card and dice games on Happy Meeple&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9849" LastEditorUserId="9849" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:14:18.423" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T17:14:18.423" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2014-10-28T10:07:33.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2014-10-28T10:41:18.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are online, the easiest way to determine whether you have a good chance of winning a battle is to use this calculator:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://armsrace.co/probabilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://armsrace.co/probabilities&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It emphasizes a non-trivial conclusion: if you have the choice, always attack the big guys first in your sequence!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if you have 6 on a territory, and want to attack a 2 and a 1 (and you have the choice to start with either one), you have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;73,60% chances of winning if you attack 2 then 1 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;69,56% if you attack 1 then 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's a fairly large difference!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why we're seeing this is basically because the more armies there are in front of you, the more armies you need yourself. If you start by attacking the 1 with 5 armies, you'll be at your best with 4 armies left to attack the remaining 2. And there is a chance that you have in fact only 3 or 2. Meaning that if you lose only one army (in attacking the 1 or the 2) you'll be in the disadvantageous situation where you have an equal number of dice against the 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you start by attacking the 2, you have more cases where you get 3 dice against 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a very litteral answer, but I think it helps getting the idea why you should attack the most powerful territories first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9850" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T14:16:41.170" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T14:16:41.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="113" CreationDate="2014-10-28T11:11:21.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have found some interesting stats at Arms Race - &lt;a href=&quot;http://armsrace.co&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://armsrace.co&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though people here seem to disregard the tactics of taking a continent and trying to hold it, here are the stats that we have seen, out of the thousand of 4-people games played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first person to hold a continent has 35% chances of winning the game. And it goes up to 40% if that continent is Australia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And indeed, people tend to go after Australia most of the time (break down of first continent held):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Australia: 53%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South America: 37%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Africa: 8%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Europe: 2%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9850" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T11:11:21.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20513" CreationDate="2014-10-28T18:12:15.850" Score="3" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11075/how-to-use-nisei-mk-ii-free-end-the-run&quot;&gt;How to use &amp;#39;Nisei MK II&amp;#39; free &amp;#39;End the run&amp;#39;?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say the Corp has a counter on a harvested &lt;em&gt;Nisei MK II&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 1:&#xA;The Runner encounters &lt;em&gt;Chum&lt;/em&gt; and begins breaking Subroutines on the next piece of Ice. Can the Corp spend the &lt;em&gt;Nisei MK II&lt;/em&gt; counter before all the Subroutines are broken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 2:&#xA;The Runner encounters &lt;em&gt;Tollbooth&lt;/em&gt; and pays his $3. Can the Corp spend his &lt;em&gt;Nisei MK II&lt;/em&gt; counter before the Runner has broken the &lt;em&gt;Tollbooth's&lt;/em&gt; &quot;End Run&quot; Subroutine?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8577" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T07:58:58.650" Title="Can Nisei MK II Be Used During an Ice Encounter?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-28T19:13:17.160" Score="6" ViewCount="901" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangala_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mangala&lt;/a&gt; is the Turkish version of mancala, with its own set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am planning on doing a project in it. Are there any game engines that either specifically play it, or universal Mancala players that plays it after supplying the options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not looking for an app, but for a game engine. For example in chess, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shredderchess.com/chess-software/deep-shredder12.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deep Shredder&lt;/a&gt; is a playing app, while &lt;a href=&quot;http://stockfishchess.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stockfish&lt;/a&gt; is an open-source engine. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9854" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditDate="2017-11-27T21:42:25.130" LastActivityDate="2017-11-27T21:42:25.130" Title="Engines that play Mangala?" Tags="|mancala|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20511" CreationDate="2014-10-28T20:45:42.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, but after the runner has a chance to break subroutines, and before any of the unbroken subroutines are resolved.&#xA;As pointed out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11078/318&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, Nisei's is a Paid Ability. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards can also host counters and tokens. Hosted counters or tokens can be spent, or leave play, without affecting their host. If a&#xA;trigger cost requires one or more hosted counters, those counters must&#xA;be spent (returned to the token bank) from the card that the ability&#xA;appears on. (page 22)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paid Abilities - Some card abilities have trigger costs that a player must pay before the effect of the ability can be resolved.&#xA;These abilities are called paid abilities. A card’s trigger cost is&#xA;always listed in its text box before the effect, following the format&#xA;“cost: effect.” (page 11, sidebar)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As explained in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;'s Timing Structure of a Run diagram (last page - phase 3.1) linked from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11080/318&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, a Paid Ability can be triggered during the encounter with the ice - after the runner has a chance to break subroutines, and before unbroken subroutines are resolved. Thus, in the chum example it does not give you any special combo to trigger the net damage, even though you can trigger Nisei before the encounter technically ends. There's a good discussion of this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/999921/chum-plus-nisei-mk-ii-next-piece-ice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-28T20:45:42.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2014-10-29T02:40:16.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite not being able to trust any particular character is telling the truth, in some circumstances there appears to be a solution in favor of the good characters which takes advantage of the inherent asymmetry caused by the character Merlin and there always being more good characters than evil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an attempted mathematical solution for team good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This relies on Merlin knowing all the evil characters. So will not work if the character Mordred is included (an evil character Merlin does not know about). If other special characters are used, it should not affect anything.  It is also a work in progress in that this strategy gives quite a bit of extra information to &quot;team good&quot;, but there may still be some details that need working out. (For example, I've already had someone point out to me that one must be careful to pad out messages appropriately or just knowledge of the length is enough context to figure out who Merlin is with this strategy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After dealing character cards, a good person suggests:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the following strategy will allow good to win, so provably deviating from these rules will indicate you are evil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whoever is the first mission leader will be now referred to as player #0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;players clockwise from #0 get numbered accordingly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each player (i) comes up with a secret phrase: phrase_i&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;from this, each player (i) generates a secret number for other player (j) as secret_ij = HASH( phrase_i + string(j) )&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use these secret_ij numbers along with public key exchange to generate a crypto key between each player:  Key_ij = Key_ji = result of public key exchange between player (i) and (j)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with that setup, the good player goes on to suggest the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Special round of discussion: all players openly/publicly give encrypted messages to the other players stating one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7a) declaring themself as not-merlin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7b) declaring themself as merlin, stating who all is good, and providing his phrase_i so all keys and therefore messages from him can then be read by that person&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Merlin should declare &quot;merlin&quot; to all good guys, and &quot;not-merlin&quot; to all evil. Normal loyal servants should just declare &quot;not-merlin&quot; to everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;if a good player gets a message deviating from this rule, they can immediately release the related key used for that communication to out the evil person.  So evil effectively must pretend to be normal good or merlin.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;More generally, a good person should immediately expose any fake merlin (release his secret phrase) if they can prove they are fake without giving information about merlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if a fake merlin ever claims another person claiming to be merlin is good, this outs themselves as fake, as the real merlin would never do this.  Unfortunately, a good person might need to keep this to themself, as revealing this could reveal information about Merlin.  However if multiple merlins choose groups such that there is no consistent way for one to be real (for example two merlins claiming each other as good, or three merlins claim such that it makes a cycle), then the entire group is fake and should be exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now a round of plaintext discussion (no encryption). Each player states which groups of good guys were declared to them by people declaring to be merlin. (Note: only the groups are released, not who claimed the group.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is a group declared such that not everyone in the group states they were told they are in the group, then that group is clearly false (as good has no reason to deviate from the plan).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the number of good &gt; the number of evil, any group with the correct number of people will necessarily include at least one good.  This means evil cannot usefully mislead here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is a player who appears in all proposed sets of good players, he must be good.  All good players should release all secret phrases they know to this player.  Now even more restrictive than before, this player then can expose fake merlins whose group selections include each other in a revealing manner.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is enough information that every one should be able to deduce a guaranteed good team without revealing merlin, someone can just explain it.  Good, having superiority in numbers, can now ensure the correct group is sent each time.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is not enough information for everyone to determine good/evil, the mission leader picks a team which will eliminate as many proposed &quot;good groups&quot; from consideration as possible.  If Merlin was the mission leader, he could purposely pick a correct or incorrect group here, so no information about Merlin is lost here.  If the mission wouldn't actually eliminate a possible &quot;good group&quot;, and the person still insists on this mission team anyway or calls a vote before discussion, it outs themselves as evil and good can vote the mission team down. (Note this of course does not indicate good/evil for the team they suggested though.) So evil has to play along here to try to help narrow down a team.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the mission fails, it should by design eliminate at least one, if not more, proposed &quot;good groups&quot;.  If the mission succeeds, it provides no information.  Proceed to pick the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may be missing something, but I do not believe team evil gains any information about merlin from this strategy.  I also am not sure how to prove it, but it appears to me there is enough information to always have good win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First note that if every time a mission fails, at least one possible &quot;good group&quot; is eliminated, there have to be at least 3 fake merlins for team evil to have a chance.  So the only potential issue is in the 7-10 player version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, note that the intersection of all proposed good sets must actually be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, if the intersection between two proposed sets has only one person, that person must be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This along with previous information and other simple deductions is quite restrictive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a concrete example, consider the seven person game: 3 evil, 4 good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three evil characters need to successfully claim to be merlin to have a chance. So if we can eliminate one by deduction, good wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no fake merlins include an additional evil member in the proposed group, then there are E+1 people that have only been included in one group. The complement of this must be good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all fake merlins include an additional evil member in the proposed group, then there will be a cycle of fake merlins claiming other fake merlins are good, and thus out each other.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at least one fake merlin must include G-1 good members in the proposed group.  Thus if there is a proposed group that doesn't have an intersection of size G-1 with at least one other group, it can be discarded. (Taking the number of groups down to 2, thus allowing the good to win.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a seven player game, there are three missions requiring &amp;lt;= G-1 people. So if no proposed group can be eliminated only with deduction, then always choose for the mission the intersection of at least two groups.  If evil fails the mission, they eliminate more than one group, and thus good again wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9835" LastEditorUserId="9835" LastEditDate="2014-10-29T02:46:48.203" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T02:46:48.203" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5733" CreationDate="2014-10-29T11:29:45.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a huge number of modern board games to play digitally now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For most games, there is very little hope for the publisher to make any money out of it, considering the cost of development. Only for a tiny number of games, I think, it is a viable option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most board game apps are not free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On browsers however, the huge majority of conversions are free. In that case, publishers ask for less, usually nothing to license their games (one big platform actually asks for money!). Online play is used as an advertizing tool. The more people can try the game online and enjoy it, the more chances they will buy the physical game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually games that are free-to-play on online platforms are less polished than apps, but they also tend to have a much longer life. With many apps, it is hardly possible to find anyone to play with after a couple of days after release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please check out Happy Meeple (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.happymeeple.com/fr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.happymeeple.com/fr/&lt;/a&gt;). This is the most beginner-friendly online platform. It has tutorials, good AI, no waiting time, sound/music, animations. It has fewer games than others but they are clearly more polished, easy to understand, quick to play. It is the perfect place to start with the hobby.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this is useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9856" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T11:29:45.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2014-10-29T17:01:09.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We tried a variant where the amount of resources are produced according to the probability of the dice roll that would produce this resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say you've got an &quot;8&quot; and &quot;3&quot; on ore and a &quot;12&quot; on wood. Each players turn, after the dice roll (for bandit, barbarians and C&amp;amp;K) resources are produced in this way:&#xA;to roll an &quot;8&quot; with two dice the probability is: 5/36, for a &quot;3&quot; it's 2/36 and for a &quot;12&quot; it is 1/36.&#xA;So in each players turn you would receive 5 + 2 ore and 1 wood marker. If you reach 36 you immediately discard 36 markers and gain one card. This needs a lot of administration, but makes the resource management more planable and cuts off a litte from the importance of settlement/city placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a bandit enters a resource field, all players with a city or settlement adjacent to that field loose all their markers for that resource. Other bandit rules still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do a similar version with development cards, where you have to gather development points according to your progress in this area of development (two for the first, one for each one after the first), but this leads to very fast or very slow developments, depending on the number of players. You would have to set the necessary development points to 36 to have the same average in developments as with dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With barbarians and the bandit this works too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However we found that especially with development, barbarians and bandit, the randomness makes the game more exciting than annoying. So we roll the dice as usual, ignore resource production and carry out just the events development, barbarians and bandit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cut out all randomness (exept for the player influence) some strong players did manage to think ahead a number of turns and act accordingly, which left weaker or inexperienced players no chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8219" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T17:01:09.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6240" CreationDate="2014-10-29T18:23:54.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 3 approaches really:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scientific approach. You try to ascertain what you can make by communicating with partner. The opponents may enter the bidding, but you want to know who can make what and ensure par is met on the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pre-emptive approach. Assumption that the opponents have something on and you want to leap in at a high level so they find it hard to find their best contract. They may accept being pre-empted or may refuse to let you play it, trying to find their fit at a high level, and your partner might have lots of defence whilst nothing to help you, in which case they'll come unstuck in their 5 or 6 level contract.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bluffing approach. You pretend to have less than you really do. Sandbagging or walking the dog or whatever people might call it. But if you bid 1S then 2S then 3S then 4S you might even get doubled there, and at 5S someone may certainly double you or pass based on &quot;the 5 level belongs to the opponents&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different players will try different approaches. (3) and (1) can be somewhat combined if you can find out more about partner's hand without giving away too much about your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-10-29T18:23:54.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20520" CreationDate="2014-10-30T08:50:26.417" Score="3" ViewCount="6633" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new Commander edition introduces a keyword &lt;em&gt;Lieutenant&lt;/em&gt;, which gives bonuses as long as you control your commander.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is that bonus still granted if you control a clone of your commander only?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And what happens if you steal an opponent's same named commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T14:15:10.517" Title="Does a copy of your commander count as your &quot;Commander&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20519" CreationDate="2014-10-30T09:12:03.880" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, only your own original commander counts.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, if the Lieutenant ability refers to &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; Commander, then the opponent's Commander would not count, since it's not yours, even if it has the same name. Also, a clone of your Commander would not count, because the Commander-ness of a card cannot be copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.3. Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. &lt;strong&gt;This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card itself.&lt;/strong&gt; The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: A commander that’s been turned face down (due to Ixidron’s effect, for example) is still a commander. A commander that’s copying another card (due to Cytoshape’s effect, for example) is still a commander.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A permanent that’s copying a commander (such as a Body Double, for example, copying a commander in a player’s graveyard) is not a commander.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T14:15:10.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11199" CreationDate="2014-10-30T09:44:24.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of &quot;butt-in&quot; interventions are there not so much in a constructive manner to try to find the best contract but to interfere with the opponents' bidding system, which is usually less equipped to deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick up most bidding systems and it can be pages and pages of bids and responses and rebids etc, and very little on what to do if the opponents come in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intervener does of course take a risk but hopes to get away with it, especially as the opponents have not necessarily yet ascertained their holdings and may therefore prefer to continue by showing their partners what they have rather than going for penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real downside of the intervention is that when the other side does eventually win the hand, they will often be able to place the opponents cards better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Methods like DONT over a strong NT, (and most of the other bids made over a strong NT) are good examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early 1990s I recall the top international teams were quite aggressive. The Poles in particular. Opening strong pass systems were not uncommon. If you're able to find archives of old tournaments, the 1991 Bermuda Bowl final between Iceland and Poland might be quite interesting to analyse. Of course you have to bear in mind that the Bermuda Bowl is a &quot;teams&quot; tournament and the final is over a lot of boards, and played against a team who has your system notes and has studied it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a match-point pairs event which is a win or lose situation, where a mishap gets you &quot;only&quot; a bottom (but can potentially be recovered quicker) and against opponents who only see your system card in the last moments, one can often be more aggressive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the mid-1990s the &quot;Law of Total Tricks&quot; was popularised by Larry Cohen, and Robson &amp;amp; Segal's &quot;Partnership Bidding&quot; was published, primarily about competitive bidding and I think these two publications improved competitive bidding in general among the middle-skilled bridge players. (Decent club-level players who are not international / Bermuda Bowl standard but are not novices either).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastEditorUserId="980" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T10:06:47.703" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T10:06:47.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21069" CreationDate="2014-10-30T09:50:33.187" Score="3" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abalone is a 2-player board game. Here's a brief explanation from &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abalone_(board_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board consists of 61 circular spaces arranged in a hexagon, five on a side. Each player has 14 marbles that rest in the spaces and are initially arranged as shown below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LfRnL.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each move, a player moves a line of one, two or three marbles one space. The move can be either in-line (serial in respect to the line of marbles) or broadside (parallel to the line of marbles), as illustrated below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lod5A.png&quot; alt=&quot;Black opens with a broadside move&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f3mh9.png&quot; alt=&quot;White counters with an in-line move&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Challenge:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is only one set of marbles on the board with initial state as in the above picture (it doesn't matter which color you choose). At least how many moves does it takes to migrate all your marbles to your opponent's initial space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9862" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T17:08:08.027" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T07:27:41.937" Title="Abalone Migration" Tags="|abalone|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20523" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-23T03:29:16.427" Score="3" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Cosmic Encounter as the Masochist, and I was invited as an ally on the offsensive side. The defense played a negotiate card, so the allies were supposed to go back to their colonies, but I had played my last 3 tokens, so I didn't have any colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where should my ships go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Xenotoad" LastActivityDate="2020-12-29T21:29:03.287" Title="Where do allies go when they don't have any colonies?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17996" CreationDate="2014-10-30T12:26:56.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The three main sub-types of ICE are pretty much equally common. Particular Corp factions have strengths and weaknesses, but typically you don't know what you're facing when you're building your deck other than to be aware of the current metagame. It is rare to find a deck without at least one piece of barrier, code gate and sentry ICE (scanning through &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://netrunnerdb.com&lt;/a&gt; I would guess &gt;90% of decks have all 3 major ICE subtypes). I also haven't seen a single example of a tournament winning deck list on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.stimhack.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.stimhack.com&lt;/a&gt; without all three major ICE types. Although there are, of course, exceptions e.g. The Code Dilemma v1.2 on NetrunnerDB has only code gates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are talking about Kit, you need to make sure your decoder is good - typically either Torch, Gordian Blade or Yog.0 + support. And that you have a fracter, so that wraparound doesn't make you sad (Inti often fills this role). I think trying to build without a Killer (for sentries) is a mistake - but it is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bring answers to all 3 major ICE subtypes. Otherwise you will regret it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9812" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T12:26:56.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-30T12:31:41.277" Score="1" ViewCount="1373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing that game for a while now (mostly the wikipedia version), and I have the impression that the game is extremely imbalanced. In my circle of friend, the win ratio is about 80% for the spies. Is there any statistical data that gives a broader win ratio?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9863" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T19:41:53.387" Title="What is the win ratio of spies and resistant in The Resistance?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20528" CreationDate="2014-10-30T13:45:22.467" Score="3" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bestow is a mechanic with the following reminder text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;If you cast this card for its bestow cost, it’s an Aura spell with enchant creature. It becomes a creature again if it's not attached to a creature.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dictate%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Dictate of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; has the following effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control dies, each opponent sacrifices a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My opponent controls a Dictate of Erebos&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I control a Creature which has, as an Aura attached to it, a card with Bestow (in my case, an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Underworld%20Coinsmith&quot;&gt;Underworld Coinsmith&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hopeful%20Eidolon&quot;&gt;Hopeful Eidolon&lt;/a&gt; as an Aura)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I control a single other creature, which I want to avoid sacrificing (in my case, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doomwake%20Giant&quot;&gt;Doomwake Giant&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single effect kills two of my opponent’s creatures (in my case, the Doomwake Giant’s Constellation effect triggered while he had two 1/1s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I choose, as my first sacrifice, the Creature enchanted with the Bestowed card (in my case, the Underworld Coinsmith above)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, does the Bestowed card (e.g. the Hopeful Eidolon above) revert to being a Creature in time for me to choose it as the next sacrifice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does it only revert to being a Creature after all triggered instances of Dictate of Erebos have resolved, forcing me to sacrifice the creature I want to save (e.g. the Doomwake Giant above)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4843" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:43:34.813" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:43:34.813" Title="Dictate of Erebos and Bestowed creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20526" CreationDate="2014-10-30T13:57:57.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dictate of Erebos' effect goes onto the stack for each instance it was triggered. The Hopeful Eidolon becomes a creature as soon as the creature it's attached to is removed from the battlefield so it will be a creature before the second Erebos trigger resolves, so you may sacrifice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T13:57:57.317" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20526" CreationDate="2014-10-30T13:58:07.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Underworld%20Coinsmith&quot;&gt;Underworld Coinsmith&lt;/a&gt;, and then you may sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hopeful%20Eidolon&quot;&gt;Hopeful Eidolon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature dies, all of its enchantment(s) &lt;strong&gt;become unattached&lt;/strong&gt;. Normally, they would be sent straight to the graveyard as a state based action. However, enchantments with Bestow immediately become a creature instead due to rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/downloads/MagicCompRules_20140926.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CR&lt;/a&gt; 702.102a. The commonly used slang terminology for this action is &amp;quot;falls off&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggers from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dictate%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Dictate of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; resolve one at a time. If you sacrifice Underworld Coinsmith to the first trigger, then Hopeful Eidolon immediately &amp;quot;falls off&amp;quot; and is ready to be sacrificed to the second trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.102a If you chose to pay this spell’s bestow cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature. These effects last until the permanent this spell becomes &lt;strong&gt;becomes unattached&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T18:06:30.180" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T18:06:30.180" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20522" CreationDate="2014-10-30T16:01:33.647" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we move all of the marbles from the start position to the end position, the average marble ends up a distance at least 6 from its starting position. In the best case, each move results in 3 marbles each 1 hop closer to their final position. A single side has 14 marbles. Therefore, &lt;strong&gt;at least 28 moves&lt;/strong&gt; are required to move all marbles on one side from their starting positions to their final positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T16:01:33.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20531" CreationDate="2014-10-30T18:17:19.953" Score="10" ViewCount="15800" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Akroma%2C%20Angel%20of%20Fury&quot;&gt;Akroma, Angel of Fury&lt;/a&gt; down for its morph cost, then a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Momentary%20Blink&quot;&gt;Momentary Blink&lt;/a&gt; on the face down creature, does it come back into play face up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9866" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:06:33.957" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:06:33.957" Title="Does exiling a morph card face down for the turn bring it back face up?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20530" CreationDate="2014-10-30T18:22:46.283" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you exile a face-down creature, it will enter the exile zone face up, and if it returns to the battlefield, it will enter the battlefield face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first important thing to consider is that &lt;em&gt;face-down&lt;/em&gt; is a status. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot;&gt;Rule 110.6d&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only permanents have status. Cards not on the battlefield do not. &lt;strong&gt;Although an exiled card may be face down, this has no correlation to the face-down status of a permanent.&lt;/strong&gt; Similarly, cards not on the battlefield are neither tapped nor untapped, regardless of their physical state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Morph#Comprehensive_Rules_references&quot;&gt;rule 707.9&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a face-down permanent moves from the battlefield to any other zone, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it.&lt;/strong&gt; If a face-down spell moves from the stack to any zone other than the battlefield, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it. At the end of each game, all face-down permanents and spells must be revealed to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Zones)&quot;&gt;rule 400.7&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we put all of these together, they mean that when the face-down Akroma is exiled, it's owner reveals it. It then moves to exile in a state as described by the card that exiles it. Momentary Blink doesn't say to exile it face down, so it's exiled face up. Once it is in exile, it is just an Akroma, Angel of Fury card, with no memory of its existence on the battlefield. Then it enters the battlefield as a creature with no memory of its previous existence on the battlefield or in exile. The effect that puts it on the battlefield doesn't say that it enters face down, so it enters face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-10-30T18:33:03.383" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T18:33:03.383" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20530" CreationDate="2014-10-30T18:37:10.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you create an object on the battlefield, it enters untapped, unflipped, face-up and phased in (unless otherwise instructed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.6b Permanents enter the battlefield untapped, unflipped, face up, and phased in unless a spell or ability says otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The state of the permanent last represented by the card has no bearing on the state of this newly created object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T18:37:10.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20533" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-10-30T19:09:49.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Abalone is an award winning two-player strategy board game designed by Michel Lalet and Laurent Lévi in which the players are represented by marbles of opposing colors. The objective is to push six of the opponent's marbles off the edge of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abalone_(board_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9862" LastEditorUserId="9862" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T15:18:43.147" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T15:18:43.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20534" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-10-30T19:09:49.837" Score="0" Body="A two-player strategy board game" OwnerUserId="9862" LastEditorUserId="9862" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T15:19:04.290" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T15:19:04.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20525" CreationDate="2014-10-30T19:41:53.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/608453/reviewing-100-plays-statistics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread&lt;/a&gt; provides the statistics you seem to be looking for, but with anything, correlation never implies causation. The OP came to the conclusion that your commenters did; the game is fairly balanced, and you really do need to assess the playstyle and strategies of your gaming group. Thing is, the best part of the Resistance is after the game itself is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-10-30T19:41:53.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-31T04:26:23.633" Score="1" ViewCount="1797" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overseer%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Overseer of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; is a creature with the ability &amp;quot;Whenever a nontoken creature an opponent controls dies, put a 2/2 black Zombie creature token onto the battlefield tapped&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, lets say 3 of my opponent's creatures die simultaneously, either through combat, spells, or sacrificing. Could I put the triggered ability on the &amp;quot;stack&amp;quot; so to say in order to get 3 2/2 black zombies (one for each non token creature that died that my opponent controlled), or am I forced to put one and only one despite 3 creatures dying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9869" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-01-19T17:47:49.043" LastActivityDate="2022-01-20T15:38:10.987" Title="What happens when more than one creature dies causing a trigger" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20536" CreationDate="2014-10-31T06:29:33.427" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an ability triggers each time a creature dies, then it triggers once &lt;strong&gt;for each creature&lt;/strong&gt; that died, not just for each event where one or more creatures died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Additional)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 700.1&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anything that happens in a game is an event. Multiple events may take place during the resolution of a spell or ability. The text of triggered abilities and replacement effects defines the event they’re looking for. &lt;strong&gt;One &quot;happening&quot; may be treated as a single event by one ability and as multiple events by another.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 603.2c&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular case, that means that even though the creatures died at the same time, they count as different events for the purpose of triggers that look for individual deaths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T06:29:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-31T09:45:12.710" Score="3" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;The third edition of &lt;em&gt;Twilight Imperium&lt;/em&gt; has become one of the most-played games as of late, and we have finally begun to incorporate the first expansion into the game. In the core &lt;em&gt;TI3&lt;/em&gt; rules is an excellent variant, called &lt;em&gt;age of empire&lt;/em&gt;, that makes the entire public objective deck accessible by the fourth round. We have a lot more fun playing with this variant, but ran into difficulty when incorporating &lt;em&gt;Shattered Empire's&lt;/em&gt; new strategy cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shattered Empire's&lt;/em&gt; eighth strategy card, &lt;em&gt;bureaucracy&lt;/em&gt;, primarily deals with revealing objective cards, which is pointless with &lt;em&gt;age of empire's&lt;/em&gt; fully-revealed setup. We ran into this problem the first and only time we played, and could not figure out a solution—letting the &lt;em&gt;bureaucracy&lt;/em&gt; card pile up with bonus counters until there were none left. It was a disappointing way to end my new favourite game. I otherwise found these new cards to be much more interesting, so it would be nice to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone figured out a clever way to modify their rules so as to incorporate both ? I would very much like to keep in the spirit of the card(s), but every modification I have come up with is terribly boring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9870" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-23T14:18:00.530" LastActivityDate="2018-10-23T14:18:00.530" Title="Is there a way to play Twilight Imperium's &quot;age of empire&quot; variant with Shattered Empire's strategy cards?" Tags="|house-rules|expansions|twilight-imperium|twilight-imperium-3rd-edition|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20562" CreationDate="2014-10-31T11:43:53.497" Score="18" ViewCount="17219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any case where an Othello (reversi) game would need to no more moves allowed?&#xA;This happen to one of the two players leading to the other to play again is a common thing. Has it ever happened simultaneously to both in the history of the game while leaving positions blank? I mean one cannot move, the other cannot move but there is still room on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;I understand that when no moves are available the game is scored. What I am asking (as it has never occurred to me in the last 3-4 years I am playing the game is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a possibility in which while the board is not yet full no more moves are available by neither of the two players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this possible? Any examples of boards in which this is possible? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9871" LastEditorUserId="9871" LastEditDate="2019-02-05T08:45:00.347" LastActivityDate="2019-02-05T08:45:00.347" Title="Is it possible for an Othello / Reversi game to end without the board being filled?" Tags="|othello|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20544" CreationDate="2014-10-31T14:38:18.083" Score="7" ViewCount="3326" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kruphix%2C%20God%20of%20Horizons&quot;&gt;Kruphix, God of Horizons&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omnath%2C%20Locus%20of%20Mana&quot;&gt;Omnath, Locus of Mana&lt;/a&gt; stop unused mana from emptying from your mana pool at the end fo each step. Omnath only works for green and keeps it green, while Kruphix works for all, but makes it colorless. If I have both on the field at the same time, which one takes priority? Do I get to pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have 2 blue mana, 1 white mana and 2 green mana at the end of a step, do I get to keep 5 colorless or 2 green and 3 colorless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T15:02:13.870" Title="Kruphix and Omnath, what color is the mana" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20543" CreationDate="2014-10-31T14:47:01.587" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have 2 green and 3 colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kruphix creates a replacement effect that applies to unused mana that would empty from your mana pool. But the text on Omnath modifies to normal game rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.1 Whenever a card’s text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. The card overrides only the rule that applies to that specific situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So because of the currently modified rules, the green mana doesn't empty at all, therefore the replacement effect doesn't happen for the green mana, only for the other colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had only green mana in your pool, Kruphix's ability wouldn't kick in at all, because nothing &quot;would empty from your mana pool&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-10-31T15:02:13.870" LastActivityDate="2014-10-31T15:02:13.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20546" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-10-31T22:07:40.873" Score="3" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example if I bet $5 and get a blackjack that pays 3:2, this means that I should get payed 7.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the there is no $0.5 dollar chip. How this situation is handled in the casinos? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9878" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:05:11.097" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T23:07:50.347" Title="How do casinos split uneven bet?" Tags="|blackjack|casino|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20563" CreationDate="2014-10-31T22:21:09.603" Score="3" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;Over the summer I played a board game in which players took on the role of 19th(?) century European powers, and accumulated score by owning 'control points' in various geographic regions around the world. It was an extremely fun game mechanically, though the primary scoring mechanic of oppressing/eradicating indigenous populations was questionable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Here are the salient features I remember from my one day of playing:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game is divided into three 'wars', each of which has 5-6 rounds of player turns&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the start of each war, players bid to decide which 'alliance' each player is part of&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players send their armies or population abroad to colonize such areas North America, India, The German Confederation, etc. Also to seize (partial) control of these areas from players in the opposing alliance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat is resolved by rolling two dice and subtracting the high number from the low, plus some modifiers for army size/navy/technology&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can remember all sorts of details, but the name escapes me. I think 'empire' was in there somewhere, and possibly 'war', but these are probably the least helpful terms when looking for obscure board games. Could anyone help me figure out the name of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info about the board and game pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board itself contained a map and several spaces for book-keeping. The map was dominated by Europe in the upper-right-hand corner, with the Americas to the left (divided into North America in brown, the Caribbean in purple, and South America in green). Africa, India, and the East-indies in boxes along the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player pieces were tiles color coded by empire, but otherwise mostly the same. Infantry armies were represented by two crossed rifles superimposed on an early 1800s infantry hat (tall with a brim and a feather), Forts by a start fort, and navies by tallships; all were square any ~2 cm on a side. There were also  circular tokens for the control points, which showed the heraldic device of the empire in question and were maybe 1 cm in diameter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were also a large number of tiles players could buy, such as Ally Tiles ('Gauchos', 'Saxony', 'Cossacks'), Technology Tiles ('Logistics', 'Press-ganging', 'War office' ), and Company Tiles ('East-India Company', 'Baltic Company', 'Sugar Company'), which conferred various benefits. These were larger and bore pictures representing the tile's benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9877" LastEditorUserId="9877" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T05:42:56.850" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T15:31:26.877" Title="Name of empire building game with negotiated alliances?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20553" CreationDate="2014-11-01T09:42:38.983" Score="5" ViewCount="774" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose the defending player has an untapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oasis&quot;&gt;Oasis&lt;/a&gt; in play, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Circle%20of%20Protection%3A%20Green&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Green&lt;/a&gt;, and an untapped 1/1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;, which has just been assigned to block a strong creature with trample, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Nature&quot;&gt;Force of Nature&lt;/a&gt;. Let's throw &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lifelink&quot;&gt;Lifelink&lt;/a&gt; on the Force of Nature as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In what order do all the following resolve?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack declared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocker declared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocker assigned damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attacker deals damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocker dealt damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trample-over damage calculated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trample-over damage dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defending player loses life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attacking player gains life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage prevented by CoP if used&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocker dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocker placed into graveyard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocker no longer regenerate-able&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One damage prevented to Blocker by Oasis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Key sub-questions that bring this to mind:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;at the time when 7 trample damage is dealt to defending player, are Llawanor elves, having received fatal damage, still in play?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;how much damage is actually dealt to the elves, 1 (their toughness) or 8 (Force of Nature's power)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;what is the source of the trample damage to the defending player?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;if defending player uses CoP, is Lifelink activated?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T18:44:00.783" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T22:29:45.100" Title="Llawanor Elves Trampled on desert Oasis. Act of God or Force of Nature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20550" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-01T10:43:48.340" Score="4" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Extract&quot;&gt;Extract&lt;/a&gt; is a Sorcery which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search target player's library for a card and exile it. Then that player shuffles his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which option below, if either, is equivalent to the actual card text above?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Name a card, and then look through opponent's library for it. Exile a copy if any are found in the library. Opponent shuffles the library afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You may look through opponent's library; exile any card of your choice. Opponent shuffles library afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In short, do I need to know what I am looking for?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="9834" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T18:34:13.467" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T17:23:37.263" Title="When resolving Extract, do I need to know what card I'm looking for?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20550" CreationDate="2014-11-01T11:14:16.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to name a card. If you need to name a card that card would say it, like with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20extraction&quot;&gt;Cranial extraction&lt;/a&gt; for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T11:14:16.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20550" CreationDate="2014-11-01T15:56:31.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Search&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules for searching&lt;/a&gt; clarify exactly what you're supposed to do. Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.15a&lt;/strong&gt; To search for a card in a zone, look at all cards in that zone (even if it’s a hidden zone) and find a card that matches the given description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that option 2 is exactly what you are supposed to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T15:56:31.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20549" CreationDate="2014-11-01T17:55:51.600" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Very simply, if the defending player activates the Circle of Protection choosing the Force of Nature, they lose no life, the attacking player gains 7 life, and the blocking Llanowar Elves dies. Alternatively, the attacking player &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; leave the Llanowar Elves alive and gain no life. Specifically, combat proceeds like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Attackers_Step&quot;&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/a&gt; begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player declare Force of Nature as an attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Blockers_Step&quot;&gt;Declare Blockers Step&lt;/a&gt; begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The defending player declares Llanowar Elves as the single blocker for Force of Nature. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The defending player taps Llanowar Elves for one mana, activate their Circle of Protection: Green choosing the Force of Nature, and activate Oasis targeting the Elves. This is their last opportunity to do those things before damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_Damage_Step&quot;&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/a&gt; begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The active player chooses how to assign Force of Nature's damage. If they're smart, they assign all of the damage to Llanowar Elves, because all of the damage assigned to the defending player will be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The defending player chooses how to assign Llanowar Elves' damage. The only choice is to assign a single point to Force of Nature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Combat damage is dealt simultaneously. Force of Nature deals 7 damage to Llanowar Elves after 1 is prevented, and the active player gains 7 life. Llanowar Elves deals 1 damage to Force of Nature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The active player gains priority and Llanowar Elves dies as a state based action because it has lethal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, step 3 could have gone like this (highlighting what's different)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Combat Damage Step begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The active player chooses how to assign Force of Nature's damage. They assign &lt;strong&gt;1 damage to Llanowar Elves&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;7 damage to the defending player&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The defending player chooses how to assign Llanowar Elves' damage. The only choice is to assign a single point to Force of Nature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Combat damage is dealt simultaneously. Force of Nature deals &lt;strong&gt;no damage to Llanowar Elves&lt;/strong&gt; after 1 is prevented, &lt;strong&gt;no damage to the defending player after Circle of Protection's ability prevents it&lt;/strong&gt;, and the active player &lt;strong&gt;gains no life&lt;/strong&gt;. Llanowar Elves deals 1 damage to Force of Nature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The active player gains priority, and &lt;strong&gt;nothing dies&lt;/strong&gt; as a state based action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the active player could also assign any amount of damage between 2 and 7 to Llanowar Elves and gain a corresponding amount of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Ivo Beckers points out, if the Llanowar Elves somehow gained &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Banding&quot;&gt;Banding&lt;/a&gt;, the defending player would choose how the Force of Nature's damage is assigned, which would allow them to choose the alternate option and save the Elves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Trample&quot;&gt;rules for Trample&lt;/a&gt; specify exactly how Trample modifies damage assignment. Specifically, 702.19b says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. &lt;strong&gt;Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking.&lt;/strong&gt; When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. The attacking creature’s controller need not assign lethal damage to all those blocking creatures but in that case can’t assign any damage to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T22:29:45.100" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T22:29:45.100" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-01T18:58:36.610" Score="3" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vesuvan%20Doppelganger&quot;&gt;Vesuvan Doppelganger&lt;/a&gt; is in play having assumed the characteristics of, say, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Royal%20Assassin&quot;&gt;Royal Assassin&lt;/a&gt;, would cloning the Doppelganger at this point be tantamount to having cast a second Doppelganger? (...that could then change into something else next turn, after spending a turn as another Royal Assassin, but with summoning sickness?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-01T19:05:45.923" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T19:05:45.923" Title="Clone-ing a Vesuvan Doppelganger" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20554" CreationDate="2014-11-01T19:04:55.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Clone would enter the battlefield as a copy of whatever Vesuvian Doppelganger is cloning, with the Doppelganger's extra ability. In fact, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Copying_objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules about copying objects&lt;/a&gt; have an example covering this specific scenario&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The copy’s copiable values become the copied information, as modified by the copy’s status (see rule 110.6). Objects that copy the object will use the new copiable values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt;  Vesuvan Doppelganger reads, &quot;You may have Vesuvan Doppelganger enter the battlefield as a copy of any creature on the battlefield except it doesn’t copy that creature’s color and it gains ‘At the beginning of your upkeep, you may have this creature become a copy of target creature except it doesn’t copy that creature’s color. If you do, this creature gains this ability.’&quot; A Vesuvan Doppelganger enters the battlefield as a copy of Runeclaw Bear (a 2/2 green Bear creature with no abilities). Then a Clone enters the battlefield as a copy of the Doppelganger. The Clone is a 2/2 blue Bear named Runeclaw Bear that has the Doppelganger’s upkeep-triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T19:04:55.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20546" CreationDate="2014-11-01T19:41:44.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how American casinos handle this, but in Austria there is the same problem with euros. There is no 0,5 euro chip, so you simply get a regular 50 cent coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8498" LastActivityDate="2014-11-01T19:41:44.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2014-11-02T03:11:23.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;NemeStats (&lt;a href=&quot;http://nemestats.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://nemestats.com&lt;/a&gt;) is a new site that is purpose-built to be able to record the results of any game to get interesting statistics like win/loss percentage, list of players you beat the most, players you lose to the most, games you play the most, your average rank in games, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is mostly geared toward players that play in a stable gaming group but could also be used to record just your own plays against anonymous opponents if you wanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Update as of 2016-02-26: We continue to enhance the site and also have the ability to import your geek list directly into NemeStats to lower the barrier to start creating games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Update as of 2016-07-20: We now have integration with the iOS app Board Game Stats -- providing the best web + phone app experience out there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9887" LastEditorUserId="9887" LastEditDate="2016-08-07T03:49:21.143" LastActivityDate="2016-08-07T03:49:21.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20575" CreationDate="2014-11-02T08:55:11.540" Score="0" ViewCount="5549" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the version of Mancala that i play, if the last stone of the move lands in an empty hole, the pieces in the opposite hole are &quot;stolen&quot; (removed and placed in the &quot;thief's&quot; home hole).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must the hole have been empty at the beginning of the move, or can it have been vacated by the very move i just made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9843" LastActivityDate="2017-02-13T00:56:45.477" Title="Can you &quot;steal&quot; if the last piece lands in the hole it came from?" Tags="|mancala|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20539" CreationDate="2014-11-02T13:57:55.487" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible for neither player to be able to make a move without the board being full. The Wikipedia article for &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reversi&lt;/a&gt; has this example from a competition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tgxGl.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also simpler examples where all the pieces are turned to the same colour (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ehiWOSp_wk&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T13:57:55.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20547" CreationDate="2014-11-02T15:31:26.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The board described is that of Struggle of Empires. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1597401/struggle-empires&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/1597401/struggle-empires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9889" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T15:31:26.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20565" CreationDate="2014-11-02T15:44:48.010" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read a lot of questions about the priority in the stack and the triggered abilities.  However, I would like to validate my understanding of the continuous effects priority rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player A has a plain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player B cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantasmal%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Terrain&lt;/a&gt; on it and change it to a swamp.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;At this point, the plain will end up as a swamp&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player A use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gaea%20Liege&quot;&gt;Gaea Liege&lt;/a&gt; ability to turn it into a forest.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;At this point, the plain will end up as a forest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Player B also cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantasmal%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Terrain&lt;/a&gt; on it and change it to a island.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;At this point, the plain will end up as an island&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once again, player A use his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gaea%20Liege&quot;&gt;Gaea Liege&lt;/a&gt; ability to turn it into a forest.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;At this point, the plain will end up as a forest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my logic ok?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9888" LastEditorUserId="9888" LastEditDate="2014-11-02T22:25:56.110" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T22:25:56.110" Title="Enchantment and other continuous effects priority" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-11-18T14:05:01.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20564" CreationDate="2014-11-02T16:55:51.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is entirely correct. Whenever a continuous effect comes into existence, it gets a timestamp, which represents when it came into existence relative to other effects. And, all of those effects you described affect Layer 4, so as you surmised, the order in which they are applied depends on when they were created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that at the end of this sequence, there are 4 continuous effects modifying the land's subtype. Whenever you want to figure out what the land's subtype is, you apply all of the effects in order. This is important because it means that when one of the effects stops applying, you just remove it from the list. For example, if Gaea's Liege leaves the battlefield, the land will be an island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T16:55:51.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20550" CreationDate="2014-11-02T17:23:37.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;2 is very close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; look through opponent's library, then you must choose a card to exile (if possible) and exile it. The opponent must shuffle his library afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing odd about not being specific about what you are searching for. For example, Say you are an entrepreneur starting a business. You can say you are searching for an investor without naming an investor, and it doesn't mean you'll take the first offer that comes along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In detail&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching is defined as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.15a To search for a card in a zone, look at all cards in that zone (even if it’s a hidden zone) and find a card that matches the given description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in this case, the ability doesn't specify a quality to match, so you are simply searching for a number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.15d If a player is searching a hidden zone simply for a quantity of cards, such as “a card” or “three cards,” that player must find that many cards (or as many as possible, if the zone doesn’t contain enough cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there's nothing optional about it, and at no point do you need to name a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-11-02T17:23:37.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20567" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-02T19:09:41.627" Score="5" ViewCount="26654" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the game and trying to make my first constructed deck. My understanding of the card rule is I can only have four cards of one kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this precisely mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, does this mean I can only have four rat cards total or four rat cards of several kinds? If two different cards do the same thing (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Remove%20Soul&quot;&gt;Remove Soul&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt;), can I have four of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9892" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T17:13:00.120" LastActivityDate="2018-11-01T22:25:57.310" Title="How does the four card limit work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20567" CreationDate="2014-11-02T20:00:46.340" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than basic lands (Island, Forest, Plains, Swamp, Mountain, and Waste) you are only allowed to have four cards in your deck with a given name. (Barring a few exceptions where the card itself says otherwise, or the card is restricted in the format you're playing.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, you are allowed to have four copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plague%20Rats&quot;&gt;Plague Rats&lt;/a&gt;, and four copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ravenous%20Rats&quot;&gt;Ravenous Rats&lt;/a&gt;, you can also have any number of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Rats&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt;, as the card has specific text allowing &amp;quot;any number&amp;quot; which overrides the four card limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, you are allowed any number of distinct card names, but only four instances of any given name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5045" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:12:05.750" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:12:05.750" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20570" CreationDate="2014-11-03T01:37:02.970" Score="10" ViewCount="7880" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a claryfication of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let's say another player uses Baron and compares his card with mine, mine being the lower valued one. I know that I'm out of this round at that point, but what happens to my card? Is it discarded face up (everyone learns what I had) and or face down (only the comparison-winning player gets that information)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let's say someone uses the Prince on me. I have to discard a card and draw another one. Do I discard my card face up or face down, keeping the information what I had to myself?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:40:09.430" Title="When discarding the card in the Love Letter, is it mandatory to show the card you had?" Tags="|love-letter|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20569" CreationDate="2014-11-03T04:07:44.317" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Tempest version of the rules is just a little bit vague - it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; say that to play a card you discard it face up, it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; say that your discarded cards go in front of you, it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; say that when you're knocked out you place your card face up in front of you, it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; explicitly say that a card you discard to the Prince should be face up (although I'd say that they weight of all the other rules says yes it should).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/loveletter/files/2013/08/LL_Kanai_Rulesheet.pdf&quot;&gt;Kanai&lt;/a&gt; version definitely spells it out: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All discarded cards should remain in front of the player who played them, visible, so that it is clear in what order they were discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a player is out of the round he or she must reveal the card in his or her hand (if any) and place it in front of him or her.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T04:07:44.317" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8190" CreationDate="2014-11-03T12:05:19.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the way I've approached it. I am still learning but seem to be getting better. First, my partner and I practice counting and visualizing online against a pair of robots. There are downsides to the robots (they don't always card the way humans do), but they're good about letting you chat as much as you like. After bidding, whether we're declarers or defenders, we'll discuss what we've learned from the bidding, what honors are out there and where they might be, and how we think the cards might be distributed.  We then begin thinking about strategy and potential obstacles. I've found that if you have a strategy (or several) mapped out, it becomes a little easier to count, b/c u know what you care about and what you don't. Maybe you can see that a 4-1 break in a suit will hurt your strategy, so you look for that break and change your strategy if the suit breaks that way. Maybe you know from the bidding that the K of hearts and the A of diamonds can't be in the same hand so you look for the play of one of them to figure out the location of the other. By thinking about the hand that way, counting becomes part of your overall play and not something separate.  Of course, this takes a lot of thinking when the hand is first laid down, but I'm hoping it will become faster as we practice more. A good teacher is also crucial, b/c they help to give you ideas about what to look for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9894" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T12:05:19.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20576" CreationDate="2014-11-03T12:05:19.833" Score="18" ViewCount="13306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played the game Othello (Reversi) numerous times but I never approach it with a specific logic or algorithm to apply on each move in my mind. I won many times and lost as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would one approach this game? How would one work in his mind to prune the possible moves and choose the &amp;quot;right&amp;quot; one in each step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that most Othello CPUs more or less &amp;quot;think&amp;quot; the same at each move, how should I think on each move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9871" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-08-15T23:31:34.763" LastActivityDate="2020-08-15T23:31:34.763" Title="How to approach a game of Othello / Reversi?" Tags="|othello|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20388" CreationDate="2014-11-03T13:18:06.527" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a 3 step process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You take as many tokens back into your hand as you wish (you can empty regions that way, giving them up), normaly you keep 1 token in the regions you want to keep.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do your attack with the spare tokens you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you don't want to attack anymore you can redistribue tokens (but this time you are not allow to give up regions).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9895" LastEditorUserId="2810" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T23:28:22.590" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T23:28:22.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20569" CreationDate="2014-11-03T13:21:17.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes its very clear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;out of the round&#xA;If a player is knocked out of the &#xA;round, that player discards the card &#xA;in his or her hand face up (do not &#xA;apply the card’s effect) and takes &#xA;no more turns until next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/tempest/files/2012/09/Love_Letter_Rules_Final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.alderac.com/tempest/files/2012/09/Love_Letter_Rules_Final.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9895" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T13:21:17.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20561" CreationDate="2014-11-03T15:26:36.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are able to steal if the last piece lands in the hole it came from.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalah&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the last sown seed lands in an empty house owned by the player, and&#xA;  the opposite house contains seeds, both the last seed and the opposite&#xA;  seeds are captured and placed into the player's store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, your last stone is landing in an empty hole on your side of the board, and the opponent's hole has stones.  Therefore, you steal those stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T15:26:36.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20572" CreationDate="2014-11-03T15:57:31.213" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not speaking as a highly expert player, but rather someone who always wins against people with little or no experience, and against overly simplistic computerized versions. So the approaches I've learned can get you from beginner to intermediate. I'll start with simple stuff first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corners are vital. Once you get a corner, it will never change color. More importantly, it is an anchor for getting many more pieces that will never change color. Once you do have a corner, if it's early enough in the game you can simply flip pieces to your color as close as possible to the corner, expanding gradually away from the corner and not doing any other types of moves. None of the pieces can be re-flipped, and eventually your opponent will have so few (or zero) moves that you can control the rest of the game in any way you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key concept all beginners must grasp: All moves prior to the first corner being taken must be geared toward maximizing your chances of being the first to get a corner (or in rare instances, setting up the board to turn your opponent's first corner to your advantage). At the same time, you want to minimize the chances of your opponent gaining the first corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's easier to think about avoiding bad moves than making good moves. The worst move that you can make in Othello is to play a piece diagonally adjacent to a corner. Even if the opponent can't immediately seize the corner after that move, it usually takes a turn or two to find a way to get the color flipped along that diagonal in a way that can't be re-flipped on your turn. The turn after that, your opponent gets the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can be thought of as less risky to go adjacent to a corner horizontally or vertically if you have control of that side. And it may be that for many turns thereafter it will not enable the opponent to get a corner. But unless forced to go adjacent to a corner like this, it's better to avoid it, for 2 reasons. One is that if the opponent does get that corner by other means, he'll then get the entire row you (thought) you controlled. A second, more subtle reason: If your opponent gets a corner on the other side of that row you control, their next move will be to get the corner you're adjacent to. Even if you do get that other corner, your opponent can use that other corner against you, like so (you are black, &quot;controlling&quot; the side with 5 blacks, then you get the corner coming in from another direction):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;_ _ B B B B B _&#xA;B _ B B B B B _&#xA;B W B B B B B _&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see that white can now take the other corner at any time, and irreversibly control the entire side except the corner on the left. This is what I meant earlier about turning a corner against someone. The only easy way to do this is if they have previously placed a piece adjacent to a corner along that same side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people figure out everything I've written so far after 20-50 games. If you haven't already mastered all of the above, be sure to do so before trying to grasp the more complex and conceptual material to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Concepts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several important concepts that drive Reversi strategy. First, to review the already mentioned concepts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid giving up a corner, and have that drive your early game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoiding bad moves is more important than making a good move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After getting your first corner, turn pieces to your color that are as close as possible to that corner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A simple concept I did not yet mention:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The end game consists of simply counting the number of pieces you get vs the number of pieces your opponents get. This works fine for the last 2-4 moves of the game, but should rarely be a driving force behind moves in the earlier part of the game before the first corner is taken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important game concept takes a long time to master:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Minimize the number of moves your opponent can make, while doing your best to insure that you maximize the number of moves that you can make.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are playing someone who has mastered the simpler parts of the game I described above, they will only make moves that allow you to get a corner if they are forced to. The only way you can force them is by limiting the number of moves they can make. You can do that only if you have many moves to make, some of which will not create further moves for your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't expect that most people will fully understand this last part of strategy I described without actually practicing. So I encourage anyone who likes this game to play a few games where your main goal is not to try to win, but to try to get used to making moves that have the result of reducing the number of your opponent's future moves while expanding your own set of moves. Once you get used to this, start trying to win again, using what you've learned to force your opponent to move adjacent to a corner, because that is the only remaining move (or one of a small set of equally bad moves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last note: The only player I ever struggled to win against had not played as much Othello as I had. But he was a good Go player. Apparently, Go players learn to think in a way that translates very well to Othello. Perhaps an experienced Go player can leave a comment explaining why a Go player learning Othello will grasp the game far faster than players without that background.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="1749" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T15:49:09.683" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T15:49:09.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20577" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T16:19:33.907" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the instructions for Munchkin it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You can discard a Race card at any time, even in combat&quot;&#xA;&quot;You can discard a Class card at any time, even in combat&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but it doesn't state whether this applies to your hand, cards in play, or both. Does the rule apply to both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does this mean that a player may discard these cards during any phase, even when it's not there turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9839" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T16:19:33.907" Title="Does discarding a Race or Class card at &quot;any time&quot; apply to both your hand and cards in play?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2014-11-04T18:04:25.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-03T16:30:15.787" Score="4" ViewCount="1356" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the instructions for Munchkin it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If something lets you have more than one Big item (for instance, the Dwarf race) and you lose the ability, you must either correct the problem immediately or get rid of all but one Big item. If it's not your turn and you're not in combat you can sell the excess Big items (as long as you have at least 1,000 Gold Pieces of Items to sell). Otherwise, you must give them to the lowest-Level player(s) who can carry them! If any Big items are still left over, discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if there is a tie for lowest-level players? Do you split evenly? How do you handle an odd number in that case? What if you are the lowest-level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this follow the same logic as the #4 Charity Phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9839" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T08:47:25.467" Title="Rules for giving away &quot;big item&quot; if you do not have 1000 gold pieces of items to sell" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20590" CreationDate="2014-11-03T16:38:09.437" Score="6" ViewCount="10344" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;trading&quot; in the Munchkin instructions it states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may trade Items (but not other cards) with other players. You may only trade Items from the table - not from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but in the following paragraph it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may also give Items away without trade, to bribe other players - &quot;I'll give you my Flaming Armor if you won't help Bog fight that dragon!&quot; You may show your hand to others. Like we could stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;Asking For Help&quot; section it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can bribe someone to help. In fact, you'll probably have to. You may offer your helper any Item(s) you are currently carrying, or any number of the Treasure cards the monster has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at the beginning of the &quot;Turn Phases&quot; section it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of your turn, you may play cards, switch items from &quot;in use&quot; to &quot;carried&quot; or vice versa, trade items with other players, and sell items for levels&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would mean that carried items are those in your hand and would cause bribes to function differently than standard trading. Does this mean that &quot;bribes&quot; can only be given from you hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9839" LastEditorUserId="9839" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T20:38:59.927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T21:01:14.387" Title="Is giving away items as bribes to other players restricted to table cards?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20587" CreationDate="2014-11-03T17:05:13.170" Score="4" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Munchkin instructions it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can bribe someone to help. In fact, you'll probably have to. You may offer your helper any Item(s) you are currently carrying, or any number of the Treasure cards the monster has. If you offer him part of the monster's treasure you must agree whether he picks first, or you pick first, or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While under the trading section it states this regarding a &quot;bribe&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may also give Items away without trade, to bribe other players - &quot;I'll give you my Flaming Armor if you won't help Bog fight that dragon!&quot; You may show your hand to others. Like we could stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is within the same trading section that states that you may only trade Items from the table that are items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; &quot;bribes&quot; can only be given from your hand (carried items)? Or are bribes handled differently when &quot;Asking For Help&quot; for help as opposed to out of turn bribing under the &quot;Trading&quot; section?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9839" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T22:37:29.533" Title="Rules for bribes when &quot;Asking For Help&quot; in turn vs bribing outside of a turn" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20546" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:02:56.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Las Vegas, the craps table was very clear that they round down to the nearest whole dollar.  I can't tell you if that's based on casino policy and/or local law, and you didn't state where you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:02:56.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20546" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:06:22.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends.  I've seen some casinos pay 7.50 with a 5, two 1s and a half-dollar coin, I've even seen casinos that actually had a $2.50 chip.  These were all in California.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2340" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:06:22.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20578" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:11:50.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is obviously an application of the charity rule, which specifies the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If players are tied for lowest, divide the cards as evenly as possible, but it’s up to you who gets the bigger set(s) of leftovers. If YOU are the lowest or tied for lowest, just discard the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T14:24:34.397" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T14:24:34.397" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:15:28.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It clearly says that you can't trade non-items or items in your hands, and there's nothing contradicting that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to reveal your hand does not imply you can trade cards in your hand. You might show your hand to reveal that you are able to affect a combat as a threat or to show you can meet a promise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to trade carried items does not mean you can trade items in your hand. Carried items are not in your hand. Quite the opposite, the items you carry are on the table. (&quot;[Cards in play] are the cards on the table in front of you, showing your Race and Class (if any) and the Items you are carrying.&quot;) Not all of the items are you are carrying are in use because some are single use items, some aren't usable by your race or class, some items would occupy an item slot that's already occupied, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T21:01:14.387" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T21:01:14.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20586" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:23:32.620" Score="3" ViewCount="3263" Body="&lt;p&gt;When is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-khans-tarkir#anchor5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ferocious&lt;/a&gt; checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;  A. When casting begins&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  B. When the spell resolves&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  C. Both of the above&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  D. It depends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is D. If I understand correctly, Ferocious is a meaningless mechanic with zero rules baggage. I'm tempted to say that the word &amp;quot;Ferocious&amp;quot; could be removed from every card it is printed on, and the card would still function exactly the same. Mechanics like Scry, for example, do have an actual rules meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are two example cards, and my guess on when the condition is checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crater's Claw&lt;/a&gt; would check on resolution, because damage is dealt on resolution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Grip&quot;&gt;Dragon Grip&lt;/a&gt; would check on cast, because it can only be cast as though it had Flash if a certain restriction is met.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T14:58:14.433" Title="When is Ferocious checked?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:31:04.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said, Ferocious doesn't do anything on its own; it just signals that a certain mechanic is present in the ability. It is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Text_box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ability word&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;207.2c&lt;/strong&gt; An ability word &lt;strong&gt;appears in italics&lt;/strong&gt; at the beginning of some abilities on cards. Ability words are similar to keywords in that they tie together cards that have similar functionality, but &lt;strong&gt;they have no special rules meaning and no individual entries in the Comprehensive Rules&lt;/strong&gt;. The ability words are battalion, bloodrush, channel, chroma, constellation, domain, fateful hour, &lt;strong&gt;ferocious&lt;/strong&gt;, grandeur, hellbent, heroic, imprint, inspired, join forces, kinship, landfall, metalcraft, morbid, parley, radiance, raid, strive, sweep, tempting offer, threshold, and will of the council.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb, you can always safely ignore any text in italics in a card's text box. This includes flavor text, reminder text, and ability words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to figure out how a card works, you just read it as though the word Ferocious were absent. Crater's Claw's ability modifies what the spell does when it resolves, so you check it when the spell resolves. Dragon Grip's ability modifies when the spell can be cast, so you check it when you are casting the spell. If the ability modified when an ability triggered (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heir%20of%20the%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Heir of the Wilds&lt;/a&gt;' ability) it would check when the ability triggers and when it resolves, like any other condition on a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you mentioned it, I'll point out that scry is different. It is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Keyword_actions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;keyword action&lt;/a&gt;, not an ability word, and as such it has actual rules attached to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T02:05:18.900" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T02:05:18.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20580" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:55:39.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing in the second rules quote that contradicts the first rules quote. Regardless of in-turn versus out-of-turn, giving an item to a person requires that the item is in your inventory (it's on the table in front of you, regardless of whether it's equipped or not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that's the only way to affect a combat or bribe your opponents, of course: you could threaten/promise to play a potion, one-shot item, or monster-enhancer on the current combat (or someone's future combat), either for or against the player(s). You wouldn't be &lt;em&gt;giving&lt;/em&gt; the player an item, but you would be using the item in a way that could affect their current decision. There's nothing requiring you to follow through on a promise, of course, but it's going to affect your reputation: if you don't follow through on a promise, your fellow players probably won't believe you the next time you promise something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some clarifications that may help:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Equipped items are face-up in front of you (i.e., part of your inventory), and they add to your Levels because you have sufficient slots to use them. (Potions and some other items are slotless, but most other items take a slot: one hand, headgear, armor, etc. Potions can be played from your hand &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; your inventory.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carried items are in your inventory; they're whatever you're &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; equipping. You don't have to drop them, and you don't have to apply Charity to them, but they're not adding to your Level. If you have three one-handed items, then you're going to equip two of them and carry the other one. I usually turn carried cards sideways to make it clear what I'm equipped with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your hand is not your inventory, and is unrelated to your equipped and carried items. It's always referred to as &quot;your hand&quot; in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-11-03T22:37:29.533" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T22:37:29.533" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18124" CreationDate="2014-11-03T18:59:36.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The copying part of Copy Cat is done on play, so yes you would get 'Enchantresses' ability to draw a card. However, to draw that card you'd have to play that card, just like any other card. Since you're not playing it again, you don't get to draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copy cat is still really good, you get Talent's, Specials, and On-Going abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9897" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T18:59:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20523" CreationDate="2014-11-03T20:41:15.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm, good question. Putting your very last token(s) into battle is a risky thing. I think they should go to the warp. You give up a base when you remove your last token from it -- that shouldn't change if they're your very last. And having all your tokens in the warp doesn't remove you from the game or prevent you from capturing a new base on your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6837" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:41:15.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20579" CreationDate="2014-11-03T20:45:39.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I'd say it does have to be on the table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The line you quoted on bribing states (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may offer your helper any Item(s) you are &lt;em&gt;currently carrying&lt;/em&gt;, or any number of the Treasure cards the monster has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An item is carried if it's on the table (Card Management):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Play:&lt;/strong&gt; These are cards on the table in front of you, showing [...] the Items &lt;em&gt;you are carrying&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, under Items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An item card in your hand does not count until you play it; at that point &lt;em&gt;it is &quot;carried&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you'll need to either discard that big item you're carrying if you want to bribe someone with a big item in you hand, or show them your hand with the big item, give them your currently held big item and then trade it back for the big item you've just played...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T20:45:39.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13703" CreationDate="2014-11-03T21:51:24.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, don't forget you don't have to wait all that long for them to decide what to do, version 1.6 clearly states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you kill a monster, you must wait a reasonable time, &lt;em&gt;defined as about 2.6 seconds&lt;/em&gt;, for anyone else to speak up. After that, you really have killed the monster [...] though they can still whine and argue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go ahead and kill it while they discuss, you'll either force them into making a mistake, or get the treasure ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastActivityDate="2014-11-03T21:51:24.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20578" CreationDate="2014-11-03T22:33:06.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to be fair, rather than choosing a player then I'd go with the rules for looting the body:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starting with the player with the highest Level […] &lt;strong&gt;in case of ties in Level, roll a die&lt;/strong&gt;. If your corpse runs out of cards, tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to reword this for the question in hand (and to hopefully mitigate further discussion around some of the other aspects of this answer):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If more than one player is tied for the lowest level and can carry more Big Items, roll a die. If there are more players who can carry big items than you're giving away, tough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case the players tied for lowest would roll. Note once again it's left deliberately ambiguous as to how to interpret the roll ;-) It's still up to you how you divide the items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the issue I have with the suggestion &quot;It's the same as Charity rule&quot; is that the section &quot;if you are the lowest discard them all&quot; doesn't apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Otherwise, you must give them to the lowest-Level player(s) who can carry them! If any Big items are still left over, discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it really then comes down to the reading of &quot;&lt;em&gt;the lowest-Level players who can carry them&lt;/em&gt;&quot; - because (unlike Charity) it doesn't explicitly say &quot;If you are the lowest&amp;hellip;&quot;, it seems to make the &quot;&lt;em&gt;who can carry them&lt;/em&gt;&quot; as important as the player levels. I'm then torn as to whether you should be giving them to players who have a higher level you but can carry them (i.e. you're level 1, with two level 2 players - should they get the items?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastEditorUserId="2810" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T15:02:42.370" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T15:02:42.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20595" CreationDate="2014-11-04T01:02:39.373" Score="3" ViewCount="14815" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 4/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spiked%20Baloth&quot;&gt;Spiked Baloth&lt;/a&gt; (with trample) and my opponent has an untapped 1/1 Bird with flying. He has only 2 lives and I want to finish him off. Can I attack directly even though my attacker doesn't have reach or flying (and his creature does)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="14201" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T17:59:54.293" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T17:59:54.293" Title="Can I attack a player directly if they still have a flying defender?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20593" CreationDate="2014-11-04T01:17:42.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the attacker, you don't have to worry about what creatures the defender has. You attack a &lt;em&gt;player&lt;/em&gt;, and that defending player gets to choose if and how to block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reach only matters on a &lt;em&gt;blocking&lt;/em&gt; creature. It means that the creature may &lt;em&gt;block&lt;/em&gt; other creatures who have flying. It is not relevant in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flying creatures cannot &lt;em&gt;be blocked&lt;/em&gt; by creatures &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; flying or reach. There are no restrictions on what a creature with flying can block. That means that flying is also not relevant in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that, if you attack in this case, your opponent may choose to block with his flying creature. If he doesn't, he will lose since you deal 4 damage to him. If he does, he will still lose, since your creature will deal 1 damage to the blocking bird, and 3 trample damage to the defending player, which is enough to bring his life to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3564" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T01:17:42.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20593" CreationDate="2014-11-04T01:39:41.487" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you can attack your opponent with your Spiked Baloth, and you will win if you do so. (Trample &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; relevant; it's the reason you win in this scenario.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, your question seems to indicate that you don't understand exactly how combat works. Combat goes in step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Attackers_Step&quot;&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/a&gt;, you say what creatures are attacking which players. You can only attack players, and it doesn't matter what creatures they have to block. In your particular case, you would declare the Spiked Baloth as an attacker attacking your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Blockers_Step&quot;&gt;Declare Blockers Step&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent says which of their creatures are blocking which of your creatures. This is where the flying becomes important. When they're blocking, the fact that the bird has flying just means that it can block your creature even if your creature has flying. In this particular situation, your opponent would declare that their bird is blocking your Baloth.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_Damage_Step&quot;&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/a&gt;, all of the combat damage is dealt at the same time. Since your Baloth has trample, it only has to deal as much damage as the bird's toughness (1) to the bird, and it can deal the rest (3) to your opponent. The bird just deals 1 damage to your Baloth. Then your opponent would lose because they have -1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, flying and reach only affect what attackers a creature can block. They don't affect damage, or what creatures can attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T23:32:40.400" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T23:32:40.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20597" CreationDate="2014-11-04T03:36:52.017" Score="5" ViewCount="5447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Setessan%20Oathsworn&quot;&gt;Setessan Oathsworn&lt;/a&gt; with no counters on the battlefield. I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Solidarity%20of%20Heroes&quot;&gt;Solidarity of Heroes&lt;/a&gt; on the Oathsworn, it gets three counters from it's heroic trigger which happens while the Solidarity is still on the stack. When the Solidarity resolves will it have 6 counters total or 7? Does doubling counters translate to &amp;quot;add as many counters as it has&amp;quot; or is it some special rule that changes the count without &amp;quot;adding&amp;quot; (thus not triggering the Scales).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T07:18:11.200" Title="Does doubling counters trigger Hardened Scales?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20596" CreationDate="2014-11-04T04:07:02.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the card says to &quot;double the number of +1/+1 counters&quot; on a creature, it means that you should place on to that creature as many +1/+1 counters as are currently on it. This means that Hardened Scales applies, so Setessan Oathsworn will end up with 7 +1/+1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I can't find a rules reference to back this up, but the basic idea is that after Solidarity of Heroes resolves, there are more counters on the creature than before it resolved, and the only way that could have happened (from the point of view of the game rules) is if you put counters on it. There is no other applicable action that has that result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T08:43:11.567" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T08:43:11.567" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20969" CreationDate="2014-11-04T10:34:46.047" Score="1" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I have played several games of End of Times now and I was re-reading the rules for summoning units. I am sure that you can only summon something from the undead legions list... however I can't find it in the rules!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it legal for a wizard using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thefieldsofblood.com/2014/08/the-lore-of-undeath.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lore of Undeath&lt;/a&gt; to summon a unit/character/monster (depending on the spell) from an army other than the Undead Legions (with a few exceptions Vampires/Tomb Kings)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not where does it state restrictions on what can be summoned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="9901" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T18:15:59.040" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T00:10:07.437" Title="End of Times Summoning Spells" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19282" CreationDate="2014-11-04T11:24:58.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've got some tricky scenarios there - I'll do my best (with diagrams)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/04vM6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens if &lt;code&gt;EUnitA&lt;/code&gt; kills &lt;code&gt;FUnitA&lt;/code&gt; but not the general?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to test for is whether the general runs away, given he's flanked, outranked and has had his entire unit die around him this is a very real possibility. I'll assume he doesn't either because he's stubborn, unbreakable or has rolled snake-eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first rule to remember is that you cannot die out of combat deliberately, however it it occurs and &lt;code&gt;EUnitA&lt;/code&gt; is released then they are no longer in the combat and can move, charge and shoot as per normal. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/14107/is-it-possible-to-die-out-of-a-combat&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; considers what happens if they're not released from combat because of a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YfeEQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens if &lt;code&gt;FunitB&lt;/code&gt; kills the entire back rank of &lt;code&gt;EunitA&lt;/code&gt; and is no longer in combat?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They take a step forward and remain in combat. Move as few units as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xb72D.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one is vague, it's one of those scenarios which occurs so rarely it's not really covered in the rules and you have to use a little common sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The issue is that if &lt;code&gt;FUnitB&lt;/code&gt; don't take a step forward you're losing a significant number of attacks per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My advice would be to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep it as a single combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move &lt;code&gt;FUnitB&lt;/code&gt; forward&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow your opponent to bring &lt;code&gt;EUnitC&lt;/code&gt; with you so they do not lose any attacks in the process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a rulebook quote to back me up but I would suggest that nudging the units so it's fair for everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really can't decide which is fairest then both state your cases, roll a die and abide by the result. People can spend longer working out these tiny edge cases than playing the rest of the game - at the end of the day try to do what's fair and practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T14:57:49.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20512" CreationDate="2014-11-04T12:00:41.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but the name is correct. &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mangala/id582929998?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is Mangala game available on the AppStore. I haven't played it, so I can't confirm that it's using Turkish variant of the rules rather than the most popular one from Mancala.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess we have to wait until you introduce a playable game of Mangala! :) Of course if that's what your project is about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could specify in your question (list) what rules are important to you to be included in the version you're looking for. Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/173916/item/3238672#item3238672&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, maybe one of those games is similar enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T12:00:41.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20596" CreationDate="2014-11-04T12:26:22.793" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule seems to be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.6. If a spell or ability refers to a counter being &quot;placed&quot; on a permanent, it means putting a counter on that permanent while it's on the battlefield, or that permanent entering the battlefield with a counter on it as the result of an effect (see rule 614.1c).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not entirely clear, but my understanding is that it means that &quot;placed&quot; includes all ways one or more counters may end up on a permanent (including the initial placement from entering the battlefield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, doubling the counters will trigger the ability as long as there were any counters in the first place (i.e. doubling zero counters does not place counters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T12:26:22.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20546" CreationDate="2014-11-04T13:44:23.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been to casinos in Las Vegas and Wisconsin and I think they have all had 50-cent chips at the blackjack table.  If they don't, you can work around the problem by betting an even amount.  For example, playing 6 dollars a hand at a table with a 5-dollar minimum won't have a significant impact on how much you win or lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T13:44:23.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18705" CreationDate="2014-11-04T13:49:57.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think they would be as they would for a 6 player game, as the south would have the same number of players in it. They serve a purpose to balance out things out, such as Storms End being very easy for Dorne to take, and so it would be the same in Rumble in the South&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9902" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T13:49:57.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19084" CreationDate="2014-11-04T15:21:29.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, you shouldn't be able to, since it would cost energy to do so, but if you were to somehow, then yes, it would be a zero. So, it's a simple answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T15:21:29.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20607" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:13:15.333" Score="-2" ViewCount="6336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have a 4/4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Angel&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent has defender 0/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fog%20Bank&quot;&gt;Fog Bank&lt;/a&gt;, which has Defender, flying, prevent all combat damage that would be dealt to and dealt by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fog%20Bank&quot;&gt;Fog Bank&lt;/a&gt;. Since my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Angel&quot;&gt;Serra Angel&lt;/a&gt; has enough power to defeat Fog Bank, would it kill it? Or would I follow the card text and let it remove all combat damage dealt by it? If so, how could I kill Fog Bank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's an easy answer, but I just wanted to make sure about the rules of combat when it comes to Fog Bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T04:08:33.270" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T07:32:19.083" Title="Can Fog Bank be killed by combat damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20605" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:17:09.530" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Serra Angel would not destroy the Fog Bank in combat. As the Fog Bank says, all combat damage dealt to it is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if you just do what the card says, everything will work correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are numerous other ways you could get rid of a Fog Bank. You could deal damage to it with a spell, which doesn't count as combat damage. You could also destroy it or exile it directly. If you just need to attack without it blocking, you could also return it to its owner's hand or tap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T17:36:24.457" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T17:36:24.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20605" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:44:57.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fog Bank would not be destroyed. This is because of the way &amp;quot;prevent&amp;quot; works. When something is prevented, that thing never happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.6. If damage that would be dealt is prevented, it never happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like from your wording that you think that to prevent damage means to remove that damage from the creature after it is dealt, but this is not the case. Fog Bank will not take any combat damage; the damage simply doesn't happen to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can kill Fog Bank with non-combat damage, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=shock&quot;&gt;shock&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T17:44:57.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20512" CreationDate="2014-11-04T17:45:48.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I found what you're looking for. If you're really willing to do this project, I found a Google Play Turkish Mangala game, I hope it's what you're looking for. Although, you can just buy a board online, or somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gamesanatolian.mangala&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turkish Mangala&lt;/a&gt; - if this doesn't work use this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/mangala/id582929998?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turkish Puzzle Game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="9901" LastEditDate="2014-11-04T17:54:15.740" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T17:54:15.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20388" CreationDate="2014-11-04T18:52:06.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it may be helpful to think about the structure of a turn this way:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0) Decide whether to put your active race into Decline. If yes, then perform the &quot;Going Into Decline&quot; steps and end your turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Leave only 1 token in every one of your active-race regions. Pick up &lt;em&gt;ALL&lt;/em&gt; the rest of them. This is your &quot;hand&quot; of active race tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1a) Optionally pick up the last active race token from any of your regions and add them to your hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Conquer regions with tokens from your hand, until you are either out of legal moves or you decide to finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are finished conquering regions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Collect your gold rewards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Perform step 1 (but not 1a) again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Place active race tokens from your hand onto the board, only into spaces which already contain an active race token.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) End of Turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course racial/special abilities will cause exceptions to the above, but this helps visualize what's really going on under typical circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T18:52:06.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20404" CreationDate="2014-11-04T21:44:39.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player cannot opt to activate a card or effect with an apparently non-resolvable mandatory component.  By &quot;apparently non-resolvable,&quot; I mean that if the card or effect were to attempt to resolve at the time of activation, it could not properly do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Sinister Shadow Games cannot be activated unless there is at least one &quot;Shaddoll&quot; card in the Main Deck at the time of activation.  This reveals the second question to be meaningless.  However, if instead Sinister Shadow Games was legally activated, but when it attempts to resolve, all of the &quot;Shaddoll&quot; cards have been removed from the activating player's Main Deck, Problem-Solving Card Text can be applied to determine the outcome of the ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects which take the form &quot;Do A, then do B&quot; are such that A and B are sequential components.  A resolves, then B resolves.  For effects worded this way, if A does not resolve properly for any reason, B should not be resolved either.  So if Sinister Shadow Games is activated, and an effect is Chained which removes all &quot;Shaddoll&quot; cards from the activating player's Main Deck, no &quot;Shaddoll&quot; monsters will be flipped face-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9907" LastEditorUserId="9907" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T16:37:38.410" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T16:37:38.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20567" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:02:17.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100.2a In constructed play (a way of playing in which each player creates his or her own deck ahead of time), each deck must contain at least sixty cards. A constructed deck can have any number of basic land cards and no more than four of any card with a particular English name other than basic land cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't have more than 4 copies of one card, except for basic lands and cards that specifically say so in their text box(so far there are only two cards like that - &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205082&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370746&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shadowborn Apostle&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although this rule applies only to Constructed formats. In Limited formats you can include any number of copies of card if you opened them in your cardpool or picked them during draft&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100.2b In limited play (a way of playing in which each player gets the same quantity of unopened Magic product such as booster packs and creates his or her own deck using only this product and basic land cards), each deck must contain at least forty cards. A limited deck may contain as many duplicates of a card as are included with the product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some formats there are restricted cards of which you can have only one copy in your deck. These cards are listed in official banlists for those formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:02:17.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:15:09.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ferocious almost always checks on resolution. There are only two exceptions so far:&#xA;1.&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386552&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heir of the Wilds&lt;/a&gt; - Ferocious is checked when Heir is declared as an attacker, because that's when it's ability can potentially trigger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2.Dragon Grip - in this case Ferocious changes when Dragon Grip can be cast, so you must control a creature with power 4 or greater when you want to cast it on instant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2014/09/prerelease-primer-week-the-ferocious-temur/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's an article from Magic Judge Rules Blog explaing this matter in more detail.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:15:09.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20428" CreationDate="2014-11-04T22:35:12.977" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting spells with Strive just increases the possible number of their targets, it doesn't trigger Prowess multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are abilities that copy spells like Storm and Replicate and also spells that copy other spells(for example Reverberate) but they won't trigger Prowess either since copies of the spells created with them are not casted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although copies of noncreature &lt;strong&gt;cards&lt;/strong&gt; can be cast and trigger prowess. Example - &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370747&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elite Arcanist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastActivityDate="2014-11-04T22:35:12.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20616" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20617" CreationDate="2014-11-04T23:27:24.893" Score="5" ViewCount="7775" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/a&gt; and I just had a really strange game with my opponent. We were both about to die (both sides with 2 life) when we both set down instants that damaged each other (at the same time). I played the red instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;, and she played the red instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staggershock&quot;&gt;Staggershock&lt;/a&gt;. It was my turn. It was kind of an awkward coincidence, so we called a draw. Is that logic correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T19:22:08.237" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T17:33:46.867" Title="If both players are killed at the same time, do they both die?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20616" CreationDate="2014-11-04T23:47:08.547" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not correct, and no, it wasn't a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you know, if they were killed at the same time, it would be a draw. But they weren't killed at the same time. MTG is a turn-based game. It's impossible to cast two instants at the same time (at least under normal circumstances), and it's completely impossible for two instants to resolve at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whoever had priority&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; got to cast their instant. Their opponent then got a chance to cast an instant in response. The instant cast in response, being cast last, will resolve first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game would have ended before the first instant had a chance to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's not possible to determine who had priority from the info you provided. Being your turn, chances are it was you unless you just finished casting a spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T17:33:46.867" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T17:33:46.867" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20618" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20619" CreationDate="2014-11-05T01:50:19.520" Score="1" ViewCount="2055" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Wild West Show&quot; character John Pain states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;If [John] has less than 6 cards in hand, each time any player &quot;draws!&quot;, John adds the card just drawn to his hand.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've always interpreted this as only applying to cards like Barrel, Jail and Dynamite or character attributes like Jourdonnais but not to the two cards drawn at the beginning of a player's turn or cards like Stage Coach and Wells Fargo.  Recently I was playing with someone and the question came up and I couldn't find anything in the rules about it other than the distinct use of the term &lt;code&gt;&quot;draw!&quot;&lt;/code&gt; in certain instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does John Pain get cards drawn at the beginning of a player's turn and from Stage Coach and Wells Fargo or just from cards like Barrel, Jail and Dynamite?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T01:58:28.797" Title="Does John Pain get cards drawn at the beginning of a player's turn or from Stage Coach and Wells Fargo?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20618" CreationDate="2014-11-05T01:58:28.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, in this case draw! refers to flipping a card and checking the suit revealed for something to fire like barrel or dynamite. Players drawing cards for their turn, stagecoach/wells fargo/dodge/bible or any other ability that adds a card to hand does not count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a guide that gives some more information on the draw! ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/2011/09/character-guide-john-pain.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bangcardgame.blogspot.com/2011/09/character-guide-john-pain.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T01:58:28.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20616" CreationDate="2014-11-05T08:33:04.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game shouldn't be called a draw, because you weren't killed at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic: the Gathering uses a system of priority and a thing called stack. You can only cast spells and activate abilities when you have the priority. After you cast a spell (or activate an ability), but before it resolves, your opponent gains priority and has a chance to response to whatever you cast, by casting his own spell (or activating an ability) which will put on stack on top of your spell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever priority is passed, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot;&gt;state based actions&lt;/a&gt; are checked. The way stack works is first in - last out. The first spell cast, will be the last to resolve. You can read more about priority &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Timing_and_Priority&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation in your game looked like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Stack is empty, it is your turn, you have the priority, both you and your opponent have 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast Shock and pass priority&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent gains priority and responds to your Shock with his or her Staggershock&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack looks like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Staggershock&#xA; Shock&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start resolving spells from the top, so the first spell to resolve is Staggershock. It resolves and deals you 2 damage. Before moving on to resolving Shock, state based actions are checked, you have 0 points of life, you lose the game as a state based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T10:21:49.083" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T10:21:49.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T11:52:50.480" Score="1" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cyclopean%20Tomb&quot;&gt;Cyclopean Tomb&lt;/a&gt;, for example, creates an effect that continues for the rest of the game, even if it is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for the conceptual &amp;quot;board&amp;quot; of lingering effects whose originating cards are no longer on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T16:35:22.917" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T11:41:15.320" Title="In what zone do the lingering effects of spells reside?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T12:09:35.240" Score="3" ViewCount="2363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider these two cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fathom%20Mage&quot;&gt;Fathom Mage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a +1/+1 counter is placed on Fathom Mage, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragonscale%20Boon&quot;&gt;Dragonscale Boon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put two +1/+1 counters on target creature and untap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would Fathom Mage's effect trigger once or twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T14:54:06.480" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T15:12:56.237" Title="Is putting multiple counters onto a target an atomic action?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20622" CreationDate="2014-11-05T13:09:56.230" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulings for Fathom Mage indicate that a single effect placing multiple counters on it, causes its ability to trigger multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1/24/2013: If multiple +1/+1 counters are placed on Fathom Mage simultaneously, its last ability will trigger once for each of those counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, Dragonscale Boon would cause the ability to happen twice, and you could draw up to two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hypothetically if Wizards wanted you to only draw one card when you cast Dragonscale Boon, they'd probably word Fathom Mage the way they did &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever one or more +1/+1 counters is placed on Fathom Mage, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the ability only triggers once for each discrete event. Dragonscale Boon would only cause the ability to happen a single time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we gave Fathom Mage an ability like &amp;quot;RRR: put a +1/+1 counter on Fathom Mage&amp;quot;, then you would be able to draw a card once for each time you activate the ability, regardless of how the triggered ability was worded. If you're adding more than one counter, you're activating the ability more than once, and each ability generates a brand new event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T15:01:18.953" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T15:01:18.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20624" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-05T13:58:55.513" Score="0" ViewCount="1803" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nuance abounds nowadays; whereas it was commonplace to mentally coalesce opposing counters on a permanent, I imagine doing so is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suppose one Sengir Vampire has amassed five +1/+1 counters from having sent five creatures to the graveyard, and it is now blocking a Regeneration-enchanted Putrefax, a 5/3 whose infectious damage is dealt in the form of -1/-1 counters. &#xA;Does Sengir Vampire have zero counters, or ten counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rabid Wombat, green 0/1, which gains +2/+2 for each enchantment on it, enchanted with Unstable Mutation, which gives it +3/+3, and gives it a -1/-1 counter during controller's upkeep. Is this accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consecutive Turns:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0/1. Rabid Wombat cast.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5/6. RW+Unstable Mutation. 3/4 + a 2/2 counter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4/5. 3/4 + a 2/2 counter + -1/-1 counter&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3/4. 3/4 + a 2/2 counter + (2 x -1/-1 counters) &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;no cancellation here?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2/3. 3/4 + a 2/2 counter + (3 x -1/-1 counters) ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;.. etc. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;correct?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Rock Hydra comes into play with casting-time X +1/+1 counters, and receives damage in the form of loss of the counters. If it becomes infected by Putrefax, which deals damage as -1/-1 counters, is the infection essentially redundant to Rock Hydra's normal life cycle? Or does the state-based action's removal of the counter count as damage which then removes another head?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is reduction of a creature's toughness due to counter-based actions considered damage?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="9834" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T14:52:20.527" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T14:52:20.527" Title="Do opposite counters coexist or cancel each other out?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-11-05T14:55:23.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20624" CreationDate="2014-11-05T14:26:36.993" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zero counters. They cancel each other out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;121.3. If a permanent has both a +1/+1 counter and a -1/-1 counter on it, N +1/+1 and N -1/-1 counters are removed from it as a state-based&#xA;  action, where N is the smaller of the number of +1/+1 and -1/-1&#xA;  counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T14:26:36.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20621" CreationDate="2014-11-05T14:27:36.227" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most cards with lingering effects have had their oracle text changed to include &quot;emblems&quot;, which goes into the &lt;strong&gt;Command Zone&lt;/strong&gt; (example: Elspeth, Knight-Errant), however the Cyclopean Tomb is not one of them (likely due to them being unused in competitive formats).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Cyclopean Tomb doesn't mention an emblem, Rule CR 611.2a would apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a good article to read about this specific issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://humbabellasgamery.blogspot.ca/2013/07/oracle-review-cyclopean-tomb-and-gaeas.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://humbabellasgamery.blogspot.ca/2013/07/oracle-review-cyclopean-tomb-and-gaeas.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastEditorUserId="7874" LastEditDate="2014-11-05T19:46:52.090" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T19:46:52.090" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20585" CreationDate="2014-11-05T14:58:14.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Talking in terms of checking for casting or resolution misplaces the focus. One of the cards you mentioned creates a continuous effect that modifies priority, and the other creates a continuous effect modifies damage dealt. They're not triggered abilities waiting for an event to become active, they are continuously active. You should be thinking in terms of what they effects modify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;murgatroid99's answer goes into further details, but I hope this gives you a better framework for dealing with replacement effects in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T14:58:14.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20621" CreationDate="2014-11-05T15:06:57.383" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do not reside in any special realm. They just continue to apply. CR 611.2a states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by&#xA;  the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until&#xA;  the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is interesting is, that these effects continue to apply even if the controller of the spell or ability that generated it leaves the game in a multi-player. So, if you turned some of your opponent's lands into swamps and then are killed, those lands continue to be swamps as long as they remain on the battlefield with the counters. Since you already left the game, your turn will be skipped and no counters are removed by the tomb's second ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastEditorUserId="8488" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T11:41:15.320" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T11:41:15.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20622" CreationDate="2014-11-05T15:12:56.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ability reads as follows, it triggers for every counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a +1/+1 counter is placed on this object, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ability reads as follows, it triggers once every time counters are placed on the object, even if more than one are placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever +1/+1 counters are placed on this object, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fathom Mage's ability has the former form, so it triggers twice. This is codified by CR 603.2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T15:12:56.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20631" CreationDate="2014-11-05T19:07:53.900" Score="4" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;When do you discard? Immediately after drawing, and before playing more actions? Or can you start/continue a chain of actions, which might include drawing more cards, and then discard after? I understand that all unused cards get discarded, so doing so at the end of the turn would negate Oasis's penalty, but the card is curiously vague about when this discard occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oasis&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mJ5BN.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;oasis&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:03:01.217" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:03:01.217" Title="When to discard with Oasis" Tags="|dominion|dominion-hinterlands|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20630" CreationDate="2014-11-05T19:10:56.647" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do everything on the card in the order it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw one card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add one to the number of remaining actions you have for the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add one coin to the amount you have to spend this turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then you can move on to other Actions or your Buy phase. So you'll discard a card before you play any other actions. (But it's during your Action phase, of course - it has to be since you played Oasis!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T19:10:56.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6336" CreationDate="2014-11-05T22:56:34.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Early in my Go education I played black with a 4 stone handicap on a 13x13 board. My opponent invaded the 3,3 point in all four corners, and I played the Joseki perfectly - but lost miserably. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 19x19 board I would have been in healthy shape with tremendous influence into the centre, as well as 4 half-sides, instead of owning a tiny area barely half what my opponent had carved out in 4 corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2014-11-05T22:56:34.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20630" CreationDate="2014-11-06T01:08:14.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You start your turn with a &quot;bank&quot; of 1 Action, 1 Buy and 0 Coins. During your Action phase, you may spend 1 Action to play one Action card from your hand. If you do, then you do everything that the card says on it, in order, to the best of your ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card says &quot;+(n) Card(s)&quot;, then you &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; draw that many cards from your draw pile. If you need to draw a card, and your draw pile is empty, then you shuffle your discards to form a new draw pile and continue drawing. If your discards are also empty, then you don't get to draw any more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card says &quot;+(n) Action(s)&quot;, &quot;+(n) Buy(s)&quot;, or &quot;+(n) Coin(s)&quot;, you add that many Actions, Buys or Coins to your &quot;bank&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything else the card says, you apply that effect immediately. In the case of Oasis, that means that after drawing a card and adding one to each of your Action and Coin banks, you discard a card (if you have any cards left in hand). You may then play another Action card from your hand, if you have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This becomes very important when you're resolving cards via something like Throne Room. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend an Action to play a Throne Room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select Oasis to play twice&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(First play of Oasis) Draw a card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(First play of Oasis) Add one Action to your bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(First play of Oasis) Add one Coin to your bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(First play of Oasis) Discard a card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Second play of Oasis) Draw a card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Second play of Oasis) Add one Action to your bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Second play of Oasis) Add one Coin to your bank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Second play of Oasis) Discard a card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you now have at least two Actions left (almost as though you'd played a Village), plus two extra coins to spend in your Buy phase, and you've cycled two cards in your hand. If you have another Action card in your hand, you may spend one of your Actions to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T01:08:14.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11164" CreationDate="2014-11-06T04:41:09.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably either Mao or Bartok - I play like this, except the new rule created at the end of each round is announced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9918" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T04:41:09.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-06T06:31:38.090" Score="5" ViewCount="57340" Body="&lt;p&gt;I read from the comprehensive rules guide that there is a damage assignment order, but I've always played the game as if there was a blocking order. Here is the relevant text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.2. Second, for each attacking creature that's become blocked, the active player announces that creature's damage assignment order, which&#xA;  consists of the creatures blocking it in an order of that player's&#xA;  choice. (During the combat damage step, an attacking creature can't&#xA;  assign combat damage to a creature that's blocking it unless each&#xA;  creature ahead of that blocking creature in its order is assigned&#xA;  lethal damage.) This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. Example:&#xA;  Vastwood Gorger is blocked by Llanowar Elves, Runeclaw Bear, and Serra&#xA;  Angel. Vastwood Gorger's controller announces the Vastwood Gorger's&#xA;  damage assignment order as Serra Angel, then Llanowar Elves, then&#xA;  Runeclaw Bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of this is that I can attack with a 3/3 and the opponent can block with a 1/1 and a 4/4. I could make it deal the damage to the 1/1 first, and there is no blocking order such that the opponent can't say the 4/4 blocks first and 1/1 blocks second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9920" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T04:00:46.440" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T16:01:02.080" Title="Does the attack or defender decide the order of damage assignment to blockers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20637" CreationDate="2014-11-06T07:22:16.577" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is accurate. There is no blocking order, only damage assignment order. Since you declare how your attackers damage will be assigned to it's blockers, your opponent can't change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T07:22:16.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20637" CreationDate="2014-11-06T12:03:27.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct in your assumption. but the Banding rule provides an exception to this, as below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.21j During the combat damage step, if an attacking creature is being blocked by a creature with banding, or by both a [quality]&#xA;  creature with “bands with other [quality]” and another [quality]&#xA;  creature, the defending player (rather than the active player) chooses&#xA;  how the attacking creature’s damage is assigned. That player can&#xA;  divide that creature’s combat damage as he orshe chooses among any&#xA;  number of creatures blocking it. This is an exception to the procedure&#xA;  described in rule 510.1c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, if the 4/4 and the 1/1 were banding and blocked your 3/3, then the defending player could put the 4/4 first in the damage assignment order and thus prevent his 1/1 being dealt any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: Unless you're playing with &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; old cards, you probably won't come across Banding)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastEditorUserId="7888" LastEditDate="2014-11-06T16:12:12.670" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T16:12:12.670" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20637" CreationDate="2014-11-06T16:11:57.340" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the very rule you quoted (and the one directly following it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose the damage assignment order of attacking creatures you control. (CR 509.2.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent chooses the damage assignment order of blocking creatures he controls. (CR 509.3.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simple Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Centaur%20Warrior&quot;&gt;Centaur Warrior&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Opponent: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I block with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jeskai%20Student&quot;&gt;Jeskai Student&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disciple%20of%20Phenax&quot;&gt;Disciple of Phenax&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I will assign damage to Jeskai Student first, followed by Disciple of Phenax.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Damage?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Opponent: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Sure.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: There was no need for your opponent to declare a damage assignment order, because each of his blockers are only blocking one attacker. Centaur is assumed to be first in line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centaur Warrior must deal at least lethal damage to Jeskai Student before dealing any damage to Disciple of Phenax. You are not allowed to change the order at this point. Therefore, Centaur deals all 3 points of damage to Student. Student and Disciple each deal 1 point of damage to Centaur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Centaur and Disciple live. Student dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intermediate Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ash%20Zealot&quot;&gt;Ash Zealot&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Opponent: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I block with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I will assign damage to Runeclaw Bear first, followed by Elvish Mystic.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;First Strike Damage?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Opponent: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Sure.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Bear dies. Second Strike damage?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Opponent: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;I'll cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on my Elvish Mystic.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Ok it resolves. Second Strike damage?&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Opponent: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Sure.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ash Zealot deals damage in the first damage phase. Zealot must deal at least lethal to Runeclaw Bear before moving on to Elvish Mystic. Therefore, Zealot deals all 2 points of damage to Runeclaw Bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you both get the chance to play spells and activate abilities. Your opponent takes this chance to make his Elf larger with Giant Growth. We then move to the second damage phase. Runeclaw Bear is already dead and so cannot deal damage. Ash Zealot already dealt its damage. Elvish Mystic is the only creature than will deal damage, and so it deals 3 point of damage to the Zealot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mystic lives. Zealot and Bear die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Special Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some abilities modify, or provide exceptions to, the rules for attacking and blocking. For a particularly complicated example, read about an old mechanic called &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/absurd-or-ridiculous-you-decide-2002-03-06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Banding&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-15T16:01:02.080" LastActivityDate="2022-06-15T16:01:02.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15588" CreationDate="2014-11-06T17:34:17.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dominion comparison is very apt. Most TCGs have minimum deck sizes but no maximums for this very reason. The power of the average card you have access to is the limiting factor. In most games of Dominion buying copper dilutes your deck, even though it is money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining a point buy with a minimum deck size would &quot;solve&quot; that problem, but unless you have 0-point cards it can be very annoying to build a deck exactly right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card copy limits are also make thinking about your deck easier. If you judge a card to be very powerful or essential to your strategy you automatically include the maximum number of them. In a point buy system do you include the max and then fill with 0-costs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads into the next problem - variety. Decks become boring to play when they're guaranteed to do the same thing every time they play. If your deck is just 50 copies of the same card it won't be much fun for anyone.* Card count limits combined with deck size minimum solve this as well. So unless you find another solution you'd still need these limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think point-buy is a poor tool to solve deck construction problems. It might be a good tool for solving card-playing costs, if you don't want to have such a system during the turns of the game. Basically, if you remove casting(playing) costs from cards and replace that with points during construction you can change the play mechanics to &quot;play one card per turn&quot; or &quot;play any number of cards&quot; for free. This creates pacing problems, though. If you draw the most powerful card at the start of the game there won't be a nice dramatic build up to it. Also you lose on the fun anticipation of trying to build up the resources to play it while you stare at it in your hand turn after turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TCG design is hard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Plague Rats work out because they are an exception to the rule - they surprise you and amuse you for a short time but you don't want the whole meta to be like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9922" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T17:34:17.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16817" CreationDate="2014-11-06T17:46:55.890" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it sounds game-specific, Magic Set Editor is a good tool for this.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magicseteditor.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magicseteditor.sourceforge.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't like any of the magic card frames (or Yugi-Oh or the couple of others it has) you can create your own - it just takes a little digging around to find out how to do so. I often just use one of the magic card frames, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has a big community of users so there should be plenty of help on how to use it if you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9922" LastActivityDate="2014-11-06T17:46:55.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26953" CreationDate="2014-11-06T21:31:59.267" Score="2" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a current game on Yucata.de (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yucata.de/en/Game/CasusBelli/4606422&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yucata.de/en/Game/CasusBelli/4606422&lt;/a&gt;), both my opponent and I have tried to build gold producing cities and failed. We have a total of 10 gold cities on the board, which doesn't seem like it would trigger a limit and we can't find anything about it in the rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yucata.de/en/Rules/CasusBelli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.yucata.de/en/Rules/CasusBelli&lt;/a&gt;). Is there a limit to the cities you can found to produce each resource? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules on Yucata state that when founding a city: &quot;The player takes a city token out of the bank’s supply (marble, iron, or gold), and puts it at the place of the newly founded city on the board.&quot; It doesn't say anything about limits on these city tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8641" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T15:08:45.913" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T15:08:45.913" Title="Limits to cities of a given resource in Antike Duellum?" Tags="|online|antike-duellum|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20651" CreationDate="2014-11-06T23:22:41.500" Score="2" ViewCount="3588" Body="&lt;p&gt;When resolving a march order, you can split the movement of your troops into several adjacent territories, but only one of those territories may contain units of another house. Does moving into an area containing another house's power token (but none of the house's combat units) count as an act of aggression precluding you from attacking from the same territory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can Baratheon use one footman in Harrenhal to attack Lannister's footman in Stoney Sept and the other to take Blackwater, which is controlled by Lannister's power token?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5t4Vw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example image&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7705" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T00:40:21.367" Title="Splitting Movement and Power Tokens" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15456" CreationDate="2014-11-06T23:33:48.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I make a melee mech with all of its red dice devoted to a claw attack (hand-to-hand range), can I put a rocket on my mech and still get the green d8 movement bonus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  Since &lt;strong&gt;Single Shot Rockets don't count as systems&lt;/strong&gt;, the bonus Green d8 for having no ranged weapons ignores them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Even when I'm firing my rocket?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  (See above.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If my mech had a gun, but it got blown off so now it doesn't anymore, do I get the green d8 movement bonus for my last big dramatic charge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.  &lt;strong&gt;Once you have no ranged weapon systems left you gain the bonus Green d8&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9923" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2014-11-07T02:45:05.357" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T02:45:05.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9663" CreationDate="2014-11-07T00:42:15.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, he can play those instants after you declined to block. That's one of the most useful things to do with instant spells, and is done a lot after blockers are announced. Keep in mind about the stacking: if he stacks an instant on top of yours, it may well counteract what you're trying to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9925" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-08T01:16:23.047" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T01:16:23.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20405" CreationDate="2014-11-07T04:02:31.697" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sinister Shadow Games can be activated even if the effect of Dimensional Fissure is active.  When Sinister Shadow Games resolves, the &quot;Shaddoll&quot; card will be banished instead of being sent to the Graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because a &quot;Shaddoll&quot; card was not sent to the Graveyard, the second effect that flips a &quot;Shaddoll&quot; monster face-up will not resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem-Solving Card Text can be applied to reach this conclusion. Effects which take the form &quot;Do A, then do B&quot; are such that A and B are sequential components. A resolves, then B resolves. For effects worded this way, if A does not resolve properly for any reason, B should not be resolved either. So if Sinister Shadow Games does not send a &quot;Shaddoll&quot; card from your Main Deck to the Graveyard (even if it banishes one instead), no &quot;Shaddoll&quot; monsters will be flipped face-up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9907" LastEditorUserId="9907" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T00:41:53.990" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T00:41:53.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20644" CreationDate="2014-11-07T09:34:07.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power token is not counted as an opposing force, so yes it is allowed.&#xA;For clarity of game flow, move the non-contesting pieces first, and the attacking units last.&#xA;Also be careful that unit population caps are correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T09:34:07.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20411" CreationDate="2014-11-07T21:15:16.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you must go to the mission point (!) to complete a mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faroffgames.com/images/games/xia-legends-of-a-drift-system/Xia_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.faroffgames.com/images/games/xia-legends-of-a-drift-system/Xia_Rulebook.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at the top left section of page 14&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-07T21:15:16.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20650" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20680" CreationDate="2014-11-07T23:30:17.173" Score="6" ViewCount="4847" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My Question:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like you'd want to make it across the board faster to take control of the board, so...&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Why would you not move your pawn TWO spaces (instead of one) during your first moves in chess?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;My Assumptions:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a TOTAL rookie at chess (and I suck), but it's my understanding that these are valid reasons for moving your pawn two spaces:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to gain/maintain control of as much of the board as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because the player controlling the middle four spaces typically has the upper hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;white may have &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First-move_advantage_in_chess&quot;&gt;an advantage&lt;/a&gt; because they move first, which indicates advancing space on the board early-on is advantageous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9927" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:36:42.110" Title="Why would you not move pawn two spaces during first move in chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20644" CreationDate="2014-11-08T00:40:21.367" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is allowed. From page 13 in the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If marching units enter an area containing one or more enemy units, a combat ensues (only one combat, however, may be initiated for each March Order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's only a problem if you try to initiate two battles with the same marching order (which you're not permitted to do. But as described on page 24 in the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Power token on the game board is returned to the Power Pool only after an opponent takes control of its area. Marching into an area containing only an opponent’s Power token (i.e., no enemy units are present) does not result in combat, and the Power token is simply discarded to the Power Pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No combat occurs in this instance, therefore it is an allowed action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T00:40:21.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20653" CreationDate="2014-11-08T01:57:31.713" Score="7" ViewCount="11738" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are facing a monster, but don't have enough fighting power to win in combat, you can persuade another player to help you. This adds their combat power to yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if the monster still wins? (For example, if a third player pulls out a card that raises the monster's power over your combined power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the 'bad stuff' only happen to the original player, or does the helping player have to suffer this as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the bad stuff does happen to the helping player, do they both roll separately to 'run away', or do they run away as a team? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T02:08:23.280" Title="If you help someone in combat and you lose, do you both get the 'bad stuff'" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20652" CreationDate="2014-11-08T02:08:23.280" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both players must roll to run away separately, and any player that fails to run away suffers the bad stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If two players are cooperating and still can’t defeat the monster(s), they &#xA;  must both Run Away. They roll separately, and each player chooses in what &#xA;  order to Run Away. The monster(s) CAN catch them both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you fail to Run Away from a monster, it does Bad Stuff to you, as &#xA;  described on its card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T02:08:23.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20658" CreationDate="2014-11-08T15:07:02.293" Score="0" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the requirements for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/Magic/PlaneswalkerPoints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the new planeswalker points login system&lt;/a&gt;? I attempted to log in with my DCI number today (which I don't do often) and it informed me I needed to upgrade my account. It was clear on the requirements for the user id but there are none listed for the password on screen and it refuses to accept anything I can think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first instinct was to goto Wizard's support system, but it requires you to be logged in to contact them so I am locked out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-10T14:44:54.333" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T14:44:54.333" Title="What are the password requirements for the new Planewalker points system?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20654" CreationDate="2014-11-08T16:33:53.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to upgrade my account with a password consisting of uppercase letters, lowercase letters, numbers, and special symbols. I was able to use a 13 character password, so if there is a minimum length, it is no more than 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, some common requirements for passwords are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must contain at least one uppercase letter, lowercase letter, number, and special symbol (printable non-alphanumeric characters)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must be at least 8 characters long&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must not contain any dictionary word of length at least 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Must not contain your username &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-08T16:33:53.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23017" CreationDate="2014-11-08T17:11:04.050" Score="1" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the &lt;code&gt;Race For The Galaxy: The Gathering Storm&lt;/code&gt; expansion and it come with 18 blank cards.  What are my options for setting up these blank cards?  I'm worried I'll drastically alter the game play if I'm not careful.  Any ideas on how I can find a way to add these cards to the game without breaking the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:39:29.777" Title="What are some options on using the blank cards in the The Gathering Storm Expansion?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20654" CreationDate="2014-11-08T17:58:05.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Click the &quot;?&quot; next to the field where you have to enter your new password, and it tells you the password requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Password Must Contain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Minimum of 7 characters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Maximum of 29 characters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Uppercase letter (1 or more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lowercase letter (1 or more)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Number (0–9)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Special character (e.g., !, $, *, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Passwords Cannot Be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your Login ID&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your email address&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your screen name&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Your DCI number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A drawing of your favorite Planeswalker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9906" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-09T04:14:22.217" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T04:14:22.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20876" CreationDate="2014-11-08T19:06:55.057" Score="3" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got the &lt;em&gt;The Gathering Storm&lt;/em&gt; expansion to &lt;em&gt;Race For The Galaxy&lt;/em&gt; and I've played solo against the robot about twelve times, winning only once.  I consider myself a competent player (consistently mid-50s or higher) but the robot seems impossible, even at the easiest level (I have yet to graduate to medium or hard).  I find that the robot typically gains lots of victory points (usually 80-90% of the available 24 points) and my usual strategy of Consume-Trade exacerbates the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are some common strategies for playing solo against the robot?  What are some common pitfalls of using player-verse-player strategies against the robot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T03:39:51.490" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T05:11:11.193" Title="What are common strategies for beating the robot in Race For The Galaxy?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20930" CreationDate="2014-11-08T19:16:53.727" Score="0" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;During solo-play, if the robot successfully places &lt;code&gt;Galactic Federation&lt;/code&gt;, do each of the 6-cost counters earned by the robot also earn the additional 2 VPs from &lt;code&gt;Galactic Federation&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is from the &lt;code&gt;Gathering Storm&lt;/code&gt; expansion to &lt;code&gt;Race For The Galaxy&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T15:59:00.160" Title="Does the robot's 6-cost development counters count towards Galactic Federation?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20378" CreationDate="2014-11-09T11:06:32.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/English_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;American checkers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on an 8x8 board, it is possible to get 24 kings on the board from the initial position. Here is a Java applet with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://icheckers.net/h4ns/games/ex_24kings.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;proof game of 211 moves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_draughts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;International draughts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on a 10x10 board, it is possible to get 40 kings on the board from the initial position. Here is a Java applet with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://10x10.dse.nl/problems/40kings.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;proof game of 389 moves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2014-11-09T11:27:03.647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-09T11:27:03.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-09T11:49:18.070" Score="5" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.learngo.co.uk/Joseki.php?Sequence=4-4,6-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;4-4 high approach joseki&lt;/a&gt;, why would black ever want to play the defensive - left variant? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vrgvB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result of the right variant looks much better! While the left variant leaves monkey jump opportunity for black, this only takes points from white, while in the right variant, black has already taken those points from white and established his own territory there, which is double points! Also, the 3-3 corner invasion is impossible!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing which seems advantageous in the left variant is the black 6-4 stone on the 4th line - which is better for influence than the 6-3 stone in the right variant. But, black could play the last move at 6-4 in the right variant as well, correct? The 3-3 corner invasion is still impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/#path:pdpf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Josekipedia is preffering the left variant&lt;/a&gt; over the right one, which is very strange to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EnLwe.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Josekipedia mentions the aji in the final position with the 6-4 variant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AuVqN.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but these are just aji's - it seems that all of these invasions can be killed if black responds right away, and this variant seems much better for black - much more points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T18:24:46.197" Title="4-4 high approach - why is the defensive approach prefered?" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20672" CreationDate="2014-11-09T21:36:16.867" Score="2" ViewCount="337" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the following example from the rulebook, Tyrell attacks Blackwater using two knights from the Reach with support from a knight in King's Landing, resulting in an initial combat strength of 7. If Tyrell instead attacked with one knight from the Reach and moved the other to King's Landing, does the second knight contribute to the support order there (is the combat strength still 7)?&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jf27B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example illustration&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7705" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T14:49:35.837" Title="Splitting Movement and Support" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20665" CreationDate="2014-11-10T07:24:21.357" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always move the non-combat pieces first ( knight to king's landing ) then perform the attacking move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat strength stays the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no state of a piece in which it would not affect the battle, e.g. 'in transition'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T07:24:21.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23954" CreationDate="2014-11-10T10:21:24.470" Score="4" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my country and in Greece we have three variations of Backgammon. The basic one that is played all around the world and two others. I am looking for the name of on of the two different ones and if it is played anywhere in the world besides my country and Greece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plakoto&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mainly the same with backgammon but instead of &lt;code&gt;hitting&lt;/code&gt; the oponent's checker you &lt;code&gt;pin&lt;/code&gt; it and it stays there until you move your piece from him. You can also add up to the pinned checker with more of your checkers and your opponent cannot re-pin on top of you.  The setup is also different from the basic backgammon setup as all fifteen checkers are placed in the far edge of the table (left or right depending on the players' preference) and you have to bring all your checkers to the exact opposite one (So more or less if you start from the far right corner you have to bring all your pieces to the close right area and then collect them as with other backgammon games).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example image&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjex0.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above case I am red. The initial setup can be both in the left side or the right side. It does not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a version of this game in other countries? Does any other country play this game? If so what is called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9871" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T05:52:57.337" Title="Different backgammon variation name" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20415" CreationDate="2014-11-10T13:37:05.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot store cargo on the unused spaces of an outfit. The unused spaces are there to add complexity to the placement of your outfits and to also have a place for you to put damage on an outfit without it being disabled&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T13:37:05.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20414" CreationDate="2014-11-10T13:40:31.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can win by purchasing a ship (upgrade to a higher tier). As you stated, the only method of gaining points that you are forbidden to use to win the game is buying 1 point for 5,000 credits. Other than that, anything goes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T13:40:31.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20416" CreationDate="2014-11-10T13:44:05.923" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The swamp rat's ability allows it to place a damage marker on an outfit instead of an armed marker to perform an action but only when that action is valid. The engine cannot be used to make a move action when defending against an attack. Therefore you cannot use the swamp rat's ability to move to escape combat. You could, however, use it to power the shields one more time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T13:44:05.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21135" CreationDate="2014-11-10T14:16:13.443" Score="2" ViewCount="1917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scything Talons have AP6, but to me it seems odd that a creature the size of a Carnifex with talons nearly twice the size of a human would have trouble cutting its way through a Guardsman's flak vest. I know that in the current edition of the rules being a Monstrous Creature does not automatically allow you to ignore armor saves like you could in earlier editions (I think 5th and earlier), but is there something in the Tyranids codex that I missed, or is a Carnifex using its Scything Talons really just AP6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T17:38:54.880" Title="Do Monstrous Creatures still only have AP6 when using Scything Talons?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20665" CreationDate="2014-11-10T14:49:35.837" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key idea here is that you first resolve your march order. Then, if you march one or more of yours units &quot;into an area containing units from another House, combat ensues&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 17).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you must first move all your units to the areas that you want. Then if you did move into an area that contains units from another House, you resolve combat. This means that units moved into King's Landing would be able to support the combat as if they were there in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T14:49:35.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20673" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20682" CreationDate="2014-11-10T15:11:03.347" Score="1" ViewCount="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that the customer always takes the shortest number of paths to the next stage.  It also says that the number of tents along the way is irrelevant.  Is path defined as a segment between tents, or is a path defined as a segment between stages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, there's a couple places on the board that have paths between stages which have only one tent along the way.  Is the length of these segments one (stage-to-stage), or is the length two (stage-to-tent-to-stage)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:14:01.663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:14:01.663" Title="In Scarborough Fair, how is the length of a path defined?" Tags="|scarborough-fair|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20313" CreationDate="2014-11-10T15:13:19.857" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say Necrons. They might not be as good as the Imperial Guard at long-ranged shooting, but they are quite a lot more interesting when it comes to what you call &quot;troll tactics&quot;. A fe pointers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How to use your Battleforce. It contains 20 Warriors, 5 bases of Scarabs, 5 Immortals/Deathmarks and a Ghost Ark/Doomsday Ark. The first two are rather simple, but in the latter you get to make choices: while the Immortals are fine infantry on their own Deathmarks are both a great &quot;troll unit&quot; and give your opponent something to think about when deciding who to shoot: those Necron Warriors running up to them, the Scarabs about to eat their tank or those Deathmarks who arrived on the table in their own turn and will shoot up that expensive elite unit if not dealt with immediately. And build the Ghost Ark over the Doomsday Ark: while it has good shooting the Doomsday Ark is both fragile and expensive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What else will you need? To make your Battleforce into an usable army you will need yourself an HQ choice. For starters a Necron Overlord is a great choice: it's tough and capable to stand up to a good number of HQ units from other books. You can either buy yourself a regular Necron Lord or get an Annihilation Barge: not only is it a great shooting unit it also comes with a spiffy Necron Lord. The other configuration of the Annihilation Barge is the Command barge: though I do not know if you can easily switch between the two by not gluing the main gun in place (someone else will have to answer that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Troll tactics. Necrons have some great flying units, but Tau are one of the best armies to deal with flyers. Using the combination of Nemesor Zahndrekh in a Command Barge and Vargard Obyron with 20 Necron Warriors with him you can teleport the latter all over the place to deliver 40 S4 AP5 shots wherever you might need them, and teleport away the next turn. Another is a combination of Orikan the Diviner alongside a C'tan with Writhing Worldscape: exploit this on highly mobile armies like Dark Eldar to force them to either be sitting ducks or have a 1 in 6 chance on all their units to lose them in the first turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where do you go next? Strangely enough, a good way to expand a Necron Battleforce is with ANOTHER Necron Battleforce. 40 Warriors, 2 Ghost Arks, 10 Immortals and 10 Scarab bases. Slap 20 Warriors into the Arks and use them on objectives, give the Immortals a Night Scythe and fly around, and use the Scarabs to eat tanks. You can pair the other Warriors with either Vargard Obyron or a Cryptek with the Veil of Darkness to teleport them around at will. When taking Obyron consider getting Nemesor Zahndrek as well, slap him into a Command Barge if you do. The Monolith is effective and scary but might not be as points-effective as a pair of Annihilation Barges. But it is VERY big, consider it a piece of moving cover. Other great units include the Triarch Stalker, Canoptek Wraiths (and they are great when working together), Heavy Destroyers, Doom Scythes and Canoptek Spiders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7893" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T15:13:19.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2014-11-10T16:29:19.410" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off: nothing is &quot;exact.&quot;  I mean literally nothing.  Even if the machine is set to be exact...it probably is... hardwood (yes, it is a compound word) will vary because it is a natural thing.  Every piece absorbs moisture at a slightly different rate and has natural variations.  Even if they were made of aluminum, nothing is exact and there will be statistical variations that could be in the 5th decimal place, but nothing is exact.  Anyway, it is a game.  That is the point.  It is meant to be slightly off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9939" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T16:29:19.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20679" CreationDate="2014-11-10T19:13:42.607" Score="2" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a player's turn can they give an item card to another player that already has 5 cards? Would that player just have to discard a card or is it not allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:41:48.230" Title="Trading item cards to another player that already has 5" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3803" CreationDate="2014-11-10T21:06:48.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I track how many of each resource has been picked up. Its quite quick and easy using your roads/settlements/cities as counters. You can be pretty sneaky about it too. Its always nice to know what is out there when you get a monopoly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9942" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:06:48.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12312" CreationDate="2014-11-10T21:20:26.250" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I built A Nikol Bolas deck and recently added this card and had the same question. this was the answer. The player casting the spell has the choice as to whether or not the card ability happens first as cased below..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.4. If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helped you with your playing :) Good Luck and Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9943" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:20:26.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20676" CreationDate="2014-11-10T21:41:48.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may only have 5 cards at any given moment. If you share a treasure card (or cards) with a player that already has 5, that player must immediately discard down to 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:41:48.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2014-11-10T21:45:35.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, center board control is not immediately the goal of a particular openings's strategy.  I'm referring specifically to two types, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Larsen&amp;#39;s_Opening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Larsen's Opening&lt;/a&gt; and regular &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fianchetto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fianchetto&lt;/a&gt; openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, white is advancing each pawn only one square, 1.b3 or 1.g3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As wikipedia states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The fianchetto is a staple of many &quot;hypermodern&quot; openings, whose&#xA;  philosophy is to delay direct occupation of the center with the plan&#xA;  of undermining and destroying the opponent's central outpost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And regarding tactics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One of the major benefits of the fianchetto is that it often allows&#xA;  the fianchettoed bishop to become more active. Because the bishop is&#xA;  placed on a long diagonal (either h1-a8 or a1-h8), it controls a lot&#xA;  of squares and can become a powerful offensive weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding &quot;regular&quot; Fianchetto(vs long Fianchetto): Advancing the pawn two squares would deny it the protection from the rook's pawn and bishop's pawn.  Fianchetto would be a great  search term for finding openings making use of single-square pawn advancement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T21:45:35.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20673" CreationDate="2014-11-10T23:55:39.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two adjacent stages have a path length of one.  The designer has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/games/scarborough-fair&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;video playthrough&lt;/a&gt; on the official website which makes this clear.  I was parsing things too closely and confused myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1530" LastActivityDate="2014-11-10T23:55:39.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20683" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-11T03:01:05.343" Score="2" ViewCount="9171" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an ability says &quot;target creature,&quot; does the creature have to be on the battlefield? I think I found a loophole that depends on the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9944" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T03:54:17.910" LastActivityDate="2019-11-01T20:06:05.257" Title="Must a &quot;target creature&quot; be on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20683" CreationDate="2014-11-11T03:53:39.627" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does.  The rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;i.e., &quot;creature&quot; can only mean a creature permanent on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T03:53:39.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2014-11-11T09:17:39.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple answer: because you have to balance attack and defense. Pawns are very good to hold your position and fend your oponents pieces off. If you are too offensive and &lt;em&gt;run&lt;/em&gt; with your pawns at your opponent, he might have problems at first, but once he stops your attack, he will have no difficulty to move his pieces behind your pawn wall. Once this happens, you lost the possibility to expel your opponent easily - your opponent will establish his position there and you will be in a deep trouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, you are hardly ever able to achieve the &quot;ideal&quot; position with &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;e&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;d&lt;/code&gt; pawns moved two spaces.  Usually you need one pawn to guard the other from behind - that position is much stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T09:17:39.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2014-11-11T15:31:32.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;first&quot; pawn that you move is usually advanced two squares, to fight for the center squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a given that you will advance a second pawn two squares. Depending on the situation, you may want to move it only one square to defend the first pawn. E.g., if your first move was e4, you may want to &quot;hold back&quot; your d pawn to d3, to defend e4, in some cases. (Moving your f pawn to f3 weakens your king too much.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent is overly timid, you probably will want to advance your pawns two squares at a time to &quot;overrun&quot; him, but if overly aggressive, you may want to take the defensive and let him overextend. Particularly if you are playing Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T15:31:32.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20688" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20693" CreationDate="2014-11-11T16:39:19.793" Score="2" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Xia rules are just slightly vague about damage to outfits. It has two separate sections for &amp;quot;putting damage on an outfit&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;putting damage on a use space&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Space:&lt;/strong&gt; If the (damage marker) is placed on a Use Space of an Outfit, any Markers are immediately moved to a Disarmed Space, and the Use Space is no longer usable until repaired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outfits:&lt;/strong&gt; Damage Markers can be placed on any Section of an Outfit. Each&#xA;Section of the Outfit can hold one (damage marker). Damage Markers on an Outfit cause that&#xA;Outfit to become less effective. Each (damage marker) placed on an Outfit reduces rolls by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these two descriptions stack, so that putting a damage marker on a use space of an outfit causes &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; -1 to rolls with that outfit &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; the arming spot cannot be used? Or are they separate, so that if you decide to damage an outfit, you have to choose between losing a use space &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; having the outfit be less effective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T09:43:32.533" Title="When taking damage to an outfit, does damaging an arming space also apply a -1 to the outfit's die?" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20663" CreationDate="2014-11-11T18:30:52.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As always it's difficult to give a categorical answer (to say the least), but here are some aspects which I think are relevant. (By the way I am not a strong player so there probably is a better answer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, contact moves reinforce the adversary and this is exactly what happens in the variation you prefer: white makes good shape with the tiger mouth and he gets a rather stable group, even though his approach was high (which in principle should make it a bit more difficult for him in terms of secured space).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By contrast, in the other variation, black does not do anything to reinforce white. On the contrary it is white who strengthens black's corner. The possibility of a monkey jump is not only about yose and points: it also reduces white's space and (to some extent) stability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another aspect is related to influence towards the center (and not only towards the side). In the variation you prefer black, although starting on the 4-4 star, gives up a bit too easily influece towards the center (it seems not so easy for black to extend towards the center in good shape, especially in the low extension on 6-3). In the other variation, at least, the situation looks more balanced on that respect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9950" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T18:30:52.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20692" CreationDate="2014-11-11T18:32:48.777" Score="5" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genju%20of%20the%20Fields&quot;&gt;Genju of the Fields&lt;/a&gt;, its activated ability can be activated multiple times to enhance its lifelink effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8/1/2005: When activated multiple times, it will have the triggered ability multiple times. When the animated Plains deals damage, the ability will trigger once for each copy of the ability. If, for example, you activate the ability three times, the Plains will deal two damage, and you'll gain six life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know why because I interpret it differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the ruling was made with the thought that the creature and ability were separate, such that even though the land becomes a creature multiple times with no effect, the ability accumulates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This confuses me because I've always had the notion that when a land becomes a creature with its abilities listed out, it &lt;em&gt;replaces&lt;/em&gt; the other types. This (misconception?) is reinforced by the fact that when lands become creatures, they inherently stop being lands unless they say otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can somebody point me to the comprehensive guide ruling that causes this behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6695" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T01:48:50.857" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T01:48:50.857" Title="Why can the activated ability of Genju of the Fields stack multiple times?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20690" CreationDate="2014-11-11T18:46:14.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 rules that don't apply to this situation, but which you may be over-generalizing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, rule 305.7, which only applies when a land subtype is set (and not &amp;quot;in addition to its other land types&amp;quot;, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%2C%20Tomb%20of%20Yawgmoth&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt;). This doesn't matter here, because the ability isn't changing the land subtype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;305.7. If an effect sets a land's subtype to one or more of the basic land types, the land no longer has its old land type. It loses all abilities generated from its rules text, its old land types, and any copy effects affecting that land, and it gains the appropriate mana ability for each new basic land type. Note that this doesn't remove any abilities that were granted to the land by other effects. Setting a land's subtype doesn't add or remove any card types (such as creature) or supertypes (such as basic, legendary, and snow) the land may have. If a land gains one or more land types in addition to its own, it keeps its land types and rules text, and it gains the new land types and mana abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is rule 205.1b, which tells us how type changing effects can override other types. This doesn't affect abilities except for those that are intrinsic to subtypes. (the only ones that come to mind are the mana-producing abilities for basic landtypes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.1b. Some effects change an object's card type, supertype, or subtype but specify that the object retains a prior card type, supertype, or subtype. In such cases, all the object's prior card types, supertypes, and subtypes are retained. This rule applies to effects that use the phrase &amp;quot;in addition to its types&amp;quot; or that state that something is &amp;quot;still a [type, supertype, or subtype].&amp;quot; Some effects state that an object becomes an &amp;quot;artifact creature&amp;quot;; these effects also allow the object to retain all of its prior card types and subtypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T18:46:14.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20690" CreationDate="2014-11-11T18:46:32.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Genju of the Fields' activated ability creates multiple separate effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchanted Plains is a Spirit Creature until end of turn. It's still a land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchanted Plains is white until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchanted Plains gains the ability &quot;Whenever this creature deals damage, its controller gains that much life.&quot; until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enchanted Plains has power 2 and toughness 5 until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ability is activated, each of these effects is created. If it's activated again, another copy of each effect is created. Each of the other effects has the same outcome if there are multiples (making a permanent white multiple times still results in it being white), but the ability granting effect grants a new ability for each copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to remember that permanents don't lose abilities unless something explicitly says so. When you activate Genju of the Fields' ability, the permanent it's attached to keeps all of its abilities, including the ability to tap to add white mana to your mana pool, and it gains a new ability that is similar to lifelink. Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;112.10&lt;/a&gt; specifies this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Effects can add or remove abilities of objects. &lt;strong&gt;An effect that adds an ability will state that the object &quot;gains&quot; or &quot;has&quot; that ability.&lt;/strong&gt; An effect that removes an ability will state that the object &quot;loses&quot; that ability. Effects that remove an ability remove all instances of it. If two or more effects add and remove the same ability, in general the most recent one prevails. (See rule 613, &quot;Interaction of Continuous Effects.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-11T18:57:42.533" LastActivityDate="2014-11-11T18:57:42.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20688" CreationDate="2014-11-12T09:43:32.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Damage Markers can be placed on any Section of an Outfit&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An outfit is made up of sections of two types; use spaces and empty spaces for storing cargo i.e. A use space is considered to be a section of an outfit. Therefore this rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Damage Markers on an Outfit cause that Outfit to become less effective. Each (damage  marker) placed on an Outfit reduces rolls by 1&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;means that damage anywhere on an outfit will cause it to be less effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T09:43:32.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20697" CreationDate="2014-11-12T14:44:21.817" Score="1" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;When/Whenever Foo&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; trigger if the source is sacrificed to pay a cost for Foo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birthing%20Pod&quot;&gt;Birthing Pod&lt;/a&gt;'s ability and sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kurkesh%2C%20Onakke%20Ancient&quot;&gt;Kurkesh, Onakke Ancient&lt;/a&gt;, will Kurkesh trigger, allowing me to copy Birthing Pod's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20Legacy&quot;&gt;Life Legacy&lt;/a&gt; and sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Basilica%20Screecher&quot;&gt;Basilica Screecher&lt;/a&gt; to pay for the cost, will Basilica Screecher trigger, allowing me to extort?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T16:23:26.060" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T18:24:03.100" Title="Will an object trigger if the source is sacrificed to pay a cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20695" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20696" CreationDate="2014-11-12T15:18:52.327" Score="8" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards counter abilities, but only from some sources. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ouphe%20Vandals&quot;&gt;Ouphe Vandals&lt;/a&gt; can only counter activated abilities of artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that &lt;em&gt;removing&lt;/em&gt; the source of an ability does not prevent the ability from resolving in the general case (the exception being relevant intervening if clauses). However, if I make a modification to the qualities of the source, does that affect what can target the ability, or are the qualities of the source &amp;quot;locked in&amp;quot; at the time of activation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a specific example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mayael%20the%20Anima&quot;&gt;Mayael the Anima&lt;/a&gt; activates her ability. In response, I turn Mayael into an artifact using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liquimetal%20Coating&quot;&gt;Liquimetal Coating&lt;/a&gt;. Can I then counter the ability (and destroy Mayael) with Ouphe Vandals, despite the fact that when her ability was activated, the ability did not come from an artifact source?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T19:07:45.643" Title="&quot;Counter target ability from a [quality] source&quot; -- changing [quality]?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20695" CreationDate="2014-11-12T16:14:06.643" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Ability&quot;&gt;Rule 112.7&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The source of an ability is the object that generated it. &lt;strong&gt;The source of an activated ability on the stack is the object whose ability was activated.&lt;/strong&gt; The source of a triggered ability (other than a delayed triggered ability) on the stack, or one that has triggered and is waiting to be put on the stack, is the object whose ability triggered. To determine the source of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you want to answer the question &quot;Is the source of this ability an artifact?&quot; for example, you just have to answer &quot;Is the object whose ability was activated an artifact?&quot; That object exists independent of the ability and can become an artifact after its ability is activated. So yes, in your example you can target Mayael's ability with Ouphe Vandals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, as 3C273's answer quotes, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot;&gt;rule 608.2b&lt;/a&gt; says, in part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that in your example, if Mayael left the battlefield after Liquimetal Coating's ability resolved, it's last known information would include being an artifact, and Ouphe Vandals' ability would be able to target its ability. It would be inconsistent if this was different from the situation where it doesn't leave the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T19:07:45.643" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T19:07:45.643" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20694" CreationDate="2014-11-12T16:48:03.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature with a triggered ability leaves the battlefield before the triggered ability's condition occurs, the ability is not triggered. Rule 603.6d says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions.&lt;/strong&gt; Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific situation, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 601.2h&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast.&lt;/strong&gt; Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell's controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of those steps is paying costs. Activated abilities follow the same steps. So in both of your examples, the creature is no longer on the battlefield by the time the spell is cast or the ability is activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T18:24:03.100" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T18:24:03.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20477" CreationDate="2014-11-12T17:23:53.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It only makes sense that you could ride only 1 horse at a time, so I think you could only use 1 in battle. However, I imagine the second horse could be walking behind you, so it would still count for anything that affects followers (e.g. You could still discard the horse if you Suffer Blood Loss at the Vampire's Tower in the Inner Region).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9956" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T17:23:53.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20695" CreationDate="2014-11-12T18:17:53.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't find a precise rule either, this answer is then partially guesswork. However, considering that, according to the rule below :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that the source of a spell seems to be a characteristic pointing at a card in a certain zone;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;that the rules mention ability sources in the same paragraph as target re-checking:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would expect that Vandal Ouphe would see the ability as coming from Mayael who is now an artifact. Somehow, I feel this is the most natural way of understanding the rule. If they wanted the source to be the card in it's original state, they would have said it clear and the bolded line concerning the last known state of the card would not have been needed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;About your example, I am not 100% sure you can cast a spell after Liquimetal Coating has resolved but before Mayael's ability. This, however, does not change the answer of the question you're asking. (Edit : apparently you can.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. &lt;strong&gt;If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process.&lt;/strong&gt; The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &quot;target,&quot; are now illegal. If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability's effect for which it is an illegal target can't perform any actions on that target, make another object or player perform any actions on that target, or make that target perform any actions. If the spell or ability creates a continuous effect that affects game rules (see rule 613.10), that effect doesn't apply to illegal targets. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9827" LastEditorUserId="9827" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T18:25:07.913" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T18:25:07.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20700" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20702" CreationDate="2014-11-12T21:00:29.067" Score="0" ViewCount="1419" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 608.2c. starts with &amp;quot;The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written.&amp;quot;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullcrack&quot;&gt;Skullcrack&lt;/a&gt;'s effects read&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can't gain life this turn. Damage can't be prevented this turn. Skullcrack deals 3 damage to target player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the second sentence causes the damage from the third one to become impossible to prevent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T21:15:40.533" Title="Can Skullcrack's damage be prevented?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20700" CreationDate="2014-11-12T21:12:12.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the damage cannot be prevented.  Anything that says it would prevent the damage no longer works as soon as the spell resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T21:12:12.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20700" CreationDate="2014-11-12T21:15:40.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you quote in rule 608.2c, you resolve a spell or ability, effects in different sentences are resolved consecutively. When Skullcrack resolves, first it creates a continuous effect that stops players from gaining life for the rest of the turn. Then it creates a continuous effect that makes damage unpreventable for the rest of the turn. Finally, it deals the damage, which cannot be prevented because the effect stopping prevention already exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T21:15:40.533" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20705" CreationDate="2014-11-12T22:14:17.600" Score="5" ViewCount="2671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused about what happens when the enchantment &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25438&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dueling Grounds&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Juggernaut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Juggernaut&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Juggernaut must attack each turn if able. Dueling Grounds only allows one creature to attack each turn. What happens if a player has multiple Juggernauts and Dueling Grounds in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking there are a couple options here. The first is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R717&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 717.1&lt;/a&gt; applies, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;717.1. If a player takes an illegal action or starts to take an action but can't legally complete it, the entire action is reversed and any payments already made are canceled. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule would indicate that both Juggernauts become untapped and neither are declared as attackers. If this is the case, is the whole Declare Attackers step reversed? The illegal action occurs as part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R717&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 508.1 at the beginning of the game&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1. &lt;strong&gt;First, the active player declares attackers.&lt;/strong&gt; This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. To declare attackers, the active player follows the steps below, in order. &lt;strong&gt;If at any point during the declaration of attackers, the active player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &quot;Handling Illegal Actions&quot;).&lt;/strong&gt; (emph. mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the player declares two attackers as part of 508.1, but the player isn't allowed to, this seems to indicate that the game returns to pre-508.1 conditions. But if this is the case, does the player get to declare another attacker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition tells me that the Active Player must declare both Juggernauts as an attack, which is illegal and is reversed, sending the phase back to the beginning of Declare Attackers. At this point, they could declare one of the two Juggernauts as an attacker. However, this is an inordinately complicated interaction, and I have very little confidence that I'm right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could somebody possibly clarify what happens in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7139" LastEditorDisplayName="user7139" LastEditDate="2014-11-12T22:19:26.037" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T23:17:33.723" Title="What happens if I must attack with two creatures, but am only allowed to attack with one?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20703" CreationDate="2014-11-12T22:30:12.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer, you attack with only one Juggernaut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer, first you need to read a little farther in the rules to 508.1c, and 508.1d&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1c The active player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can't attack, or that it can't attack unless some condition is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of attackers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1d The active player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must attack, or that it must attack if some condition is met). If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of attackers is illegal. If a creature can't attack unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost, even if attacking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that when declaring attackers you need to fulfill the largest number of requirements without violating any restrictions. In your case you have 2 requirements, one for each Juggernaut saying it needs to attack if able, and 1 restriction saying only one creature can attack. Obviously the only way to fulfill the restriction is by attacking with only one Juggernaut, and you are fulfilling as many of the requirements that you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T22:30:12.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20703" CreationDate="2014-11-12T22:30:21.987" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to declare one of the Juggernauts as attackers. You cannot declare both of them as attackers. The important rules that you missed are under &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Attackers_Step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;508.1&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1c&lt;/strong&gt; The active player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can't attack, or that it can't attack unless some condition is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of attackers is illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1d&lt;/strong&gt; The active player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must attack, or that it must attack if some condition is met). &lt;strong&gt;If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of attackers is illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature can't attack unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost, even if attacking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you declare both Juggernauts as attackers, it would violate the Dueling Grounds restriction, so it would be illegal per 508.1c. If you declare neither as an attacker, you are following 0 of the 2 relevant requirements, so it would be illegal per 508.1d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you declare one of the Juggernauts as an attacker, then no restrictions are disobeyed, so it passes 508.1c, and 1 requirement is obeyed, which is the maximum number that could be obeyed with Dueling Grounds on the battlefield. That makes it a legal attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to remember that when the rules say that a choice is illegal, it doesn't mean &amp;quot;you should go back and make a choice&amp;quot;; it means &amp;quot;you never should have made this choice&amp;quot;. Rule 717 is there to handle the case where you broke a rule and the game state is fixable. There is never a case where you must make an illegal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-12T23:17:33.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20707" CreationDate="2014-11-12T22:42:00.350" Score="7" ViewCount="352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Granted we only have the basic set, it seems every time we play the games don't last long enough for spells to be useful. I can see how it would be a good idea to ramp resources, provide yourself with some threat removal and similar pursuits in games that are slower paced. Quarriors so far doesn't seem like the kind of game where you can don the Control player or the Midrange player hats. Especially in games with 3 or 4 people, the amount of glory required to win is so low, just a few creatures who score will win pretty fast. Is there a way I can come out of nowhere with these spells? I don't see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8547" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T00:31:24.150" Title="Are spells mostly a dubious strategy in Quarriors?" Tags="|quarriors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20706" CreationDate="2014-11-13T00:31:24.150" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original Quarriors rules do indeed discourage buying anything except creatures. You've put your finger on the problem: the game is too short for spells to be in the same range of usefulness as creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is in an &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/quarma/QuarmageddonRulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;optional rule in the back of the Quarmageddon rulebook&lt;/a&gt;: to score glory, you must cull the &lt;em&gt;creature that scored&lt;/em&gt;. (If you want to keep the creature, you can opt to not score it.) This has three effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is slower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An early lucky buy of a powerful creature no longer nigh-guarantees victory (though it still helps).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells are more worthwhile: buying a spell once means you can use it several times, but buying a creature once means you can only score it once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T00:31:24.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20710" CreationDate="2014-11-13T03:57:04.883" Score="1" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a unit that is 10 models wide. And an enemy unit is attacking me in the front with only one monster size model on the very far left side of my unit, can I reform my unit to gain an extra rank? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I still have to reform around the center?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My unit only had one rank at the start of close combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T13:58:20.447" Title="Reforming to gain extra rank in close combat" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20708" CreationDate="2014-11-13T13:36:59.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can reform if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You win the round of combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or if you lose combat, hold and pass an unmodified leadership test.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe there is a limit to how many columns you can adjust per turn (from memory I think it's 5) however there should be no problem going from 10 columns to 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming your models are on 20mm bases this will give you 4 models from each rank in each rank attacking and a +1 rank bonus (until the monster kills another model at least!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where the rules begin to get a little vague is when you're &quot;moving&quot; your unit in the combat to get more attacks. It's best to agree with your opponent before you start moving models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are clear that can't reform out of combat - they're a little vague on reforming to get more attacks in (although bear in mind that this is what you're effectively doing when you add more ranks). In my opinion the simplest solution is to treat the centre of combat as the centre of the unit and reform around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="6161" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T13:58:20.447" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T13:58:20.447" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20714" CreationDate="2014-11-13T15:28:49.750" Score="6" ViewCount="3267" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question arises when we saw this in the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. I used an ability to automatically kill a monster. Another player used Wandering Monster to add a monster to the fight, and then played Transferal Potion to move the monster to himself. He beat it. Who gets the level and Treasures for the monster I killed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. You do; you killed it. (This has been ruled different ways at different times, but we got a ruling directly from Steve, so it trumps everything else.) You get your level and Treasures after the whole combat is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say for example in Zombies, Player A was a Level 9 Atomic Zombie (and therefore had flaming hands). He kicks open the door to find a Mascot which he automatically defeats with fire. Someone wanders in an Action Hero, which for the sake of argument ultimately kills Player A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the combat resolve as &amp;quot;Player A goes up to Level 10 and then gets killed.&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Player A gets killed and doesn't level up.&amp;quot; because of the &amp;quot;after the WHOLE combat is resolved&amp;quot; clause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9960" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-09-07T00:41:58.537" Title="Would I level up if I &quot;automatically defeated&quot; a monster but someone wandered in a monster that killed me afterwards?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20712" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-13T17:08:45.607" Score="4" ViewCount="4953" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had just recently bought the game and I was wondering if we needed more than two players to control all the countries. We had already decided that I would take the UK and USA while he would take Germany and Japan. Do we need somebody to play as Russia or could we just play without Russia?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9961" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T22:39:30.427" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T23:59:30.343" Title="Can Axis and Allies be played with two players, and does it require all countries to be picked?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20712" CreationDate="2014-11-13T17:49:56.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You always need all the countries.  With 2 players, one should be all the allies and one should be the axis powers.  So you will need to play Russia as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T17:49:56.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20711" CreationDate="2014-11-13T18:20:12.870" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Mascot is defeated, but Player A must defeat (but not necessarily kill) the wandering monster before being awarded levels or treasure (or the win).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the rules state that after you kick open a door, you give a &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/#combat&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reasonable time&lt;/a&gt;&quot; to allow other players to intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the FAQ, the following Q/A answers your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. Does the &quot;reasonable time rule&quot; apply to defeating a monster&#xA;  without killing it, or just to killing it?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A. Any sort of defeat. &lt;strong&gt;If&#xA;  you defeat it without killing it, other players still have a&#xA;  reasonable time to play an applicable card to frustrate you.&lt;/strong&gt; However,&#xA;  if you removed the only monster from the fight (with Magic Lamp, for&#xA;  instance), they cannot play Monster Enhancers or other similar cards&#xA;  that affect a specific monster, because there isn't one there to&#xA;  fight, and they can't use any special rules for bringing in monsters&#xA;  (such as the Shark rules from Munchkin Booty) that depend on having a&#xA;  monster in the fight. &lt;strong&gt;They can play Wandering Monster to bring in an&#xA;  entirely new monster, though, but they must do it at once.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, any ability that will auto-defeat the door mob still grants your opponents a &quot;reasonable time&quot; to respond, in which they can Wander in any monster they choose, which you have to fight &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; the additional monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per this &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=87552&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Super Moderator&lt;/a&gt; in the MunchkinForums:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Automatically defeating a Monster removes the Monster. Cards that rely&#xA;  on a Monster can't be played, but that doesn't mean that combat is&#xA;  over UNLESS the card that automatically defeated the Monster says&#xA;  otherwise. This is a situation where cards could be played, but not&#xA;  those that affected a non-existent Monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as why your other outcome couldn't happen, &quot;Player A goes up to Level 10 and then gets killed&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/zombies_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin Zombies ruleset&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You cannot collect rewards for defeating a monster (e.g., Treasure, levels) in the middle of a combat. You must finish the fight before gaining any rewards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, this gets spelled out in the FAQ, Important Note #3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Killed&quot; means that you defeated the monster with your Level and&#xA;  bonuses in combat, or used some card or special ability that&#xA;  specifically states that it kills the monster. For this, you get&#xA;  levels and Treasure. &lt;strong&gt;Some Monsters say that they can be defeated&#xA;  immediately, based on circumstances. Unless the card says otherwise,&#xA;  this usually means an instant kill of the Monster, so you would get&#xA;  levels and Treasure in those situations, too.&lt;/strong&gt; However, even in a case&#xA;  where a single monster is instantly defeated, other players get a&#xA;  chance to play Wandering Monster to add a new foe that you must defeat&#xA;  before claiming the spoils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TLDR; defeating (or auto-defeating) a monster does not end combat; the monster is removed, but other players have a &quot;reasonable time&quot; to play any such as wandering monster--if done at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should all additional monsters be defeated (or lamped, etc.), combat is then resolved and you can claim victory with the kill granted by your auto-defeated monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2014-11-13T23:09:03.053" LastActivityDate="2014-11-13T23:09:03.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20712" CreationDate="2014-11-13T22:34:21.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Axis and Allies&lt;/em&gt; only works well if all five countries are in play, on their correct teams.  If you have five players, this is easy to do.  If you have fewer than five, here are the recommended sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;4 Players&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soviet Union, United States (Allied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;United Kingdom (Allied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Germany (Axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Japan (Axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;3 Players&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soviet Union, United Kingdom, United States (Allied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Germany (Axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Japan (Axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2 Players&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soviet Union, United Kingdom, United States (Allied)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Germany, Japan (Axis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you insist on playing without one of the countries in the game, you'll be in for quite an unbalanced game.  Assuming that unplayed countries cannot be entered, here's some of what you're in for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Soviet Union&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the Russians out, most of Germany's industry is freed up to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attack Britain itself,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maraud the Atlantic,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and take out all of Britain's colonies in Africa, India, and further east&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be a devastating game for the British player in particular and the Allies in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;United States&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the industrial might of the Americans, Britain would face Japan alone, leaving them no resources to throw against the Germans.  (This one I've actually tried -- it's a mess.)  The war tends to break into two separate wars: Britain vs. Japan in the east, Germany vs. Russia in the west.  Both of those wars are imbalanced in favor of the Axis Powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;United Kingdom&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might be the closest to a balanced game with one power removed.  Taking Britain out of the game would remove the entire rim of the Indian Ocean: Africa, India, Australia, and all the various places in between.  The US would miss having a staging point in Great Britain, but they can use Morocco or Norway instead without too much difficulty.  Japan wouldn't have the British harassing their southern flank, but they also wouldn't have as many production points to gain in the south, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Germany &amp;amp; Japan&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing either Axis Power completely unbalances the game.  Without Germany, Russia has nowhere to go but east into Japan's holdings.  Without Japan, Britain has no threat to their eastern territories and can easily focus all their firepower on Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T23:59:30.343" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T23:59:30.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20663" CreationDate="2014-11-14T13:51:05.133" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The main reason why I think you think this is good is because this joseki looks a lot like another familiar 3-4 joseki: &lt;a href=&quot;http://josekipedia.com/#path:qdodocncpcndqfjd&quot;&gt;http://josekipedia.com/#path:qdodocncpcndqfjd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Good possibilities&#xA;$$ --------------|&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . , X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . a . O O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . c b . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even though the difference between these two positions is only one line it cannot be overstated, black is good in that situation because he's closer to the corner, and it's secure, it's difficult to attack black.  Because black is solid, he doesn't have to worry about follow up moves and he has nice follow up moves of his own against white.  But in your right side variation, because it's one line farther out, there are too many weaknesses, black's corner is not secure.  So he can't necessarily count on the same follow up moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ Maybe not an option&#xA;$$ --------------|&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . ? . O O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . ? ? . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it's becomes a trade, you're getting a little more corner &quot;territory&quot; for massive weakspots in that territory.  Later on white can even make an approach at the 8-3 point on the other side.  Black would normally want to pincer such a close approach, but cannot because the aji in the corner would become a big problem.  Black would need to play defensively, so white gets a free move, and black becomes overconcentrated and inefficient.  But it's either that or lose the corner, but if you were planning on giving up the corner then other moves would have been better suited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from the given diagrams, black gets a large chunk of the side on the left as well and is difficult to attack.  On the right he's got a few more points in the corner, but because of the bad aji, he can't expect to get the side as well.  Even if he already has a stone at the 10-3 or 10-4, white has enough potential here to invade or reduce easily given the correct whole board situation.  There's not really an upside.  On the other hand, white's shape is ideal in the right side variation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ The stuff of nightmares&#xA;$$ ----------------------|&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . a c . . . |&#xA;$$ . X . O . . e . d . . |&#xA;$$ . , . . . X . X . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . b . . . . X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . O O . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pointed out the monkey jump.  Generally, monkey jumps are 10-point sente moves. (But that, of course, depends on the exact situation.)  Because it's normally sente for black, but gote for white, black is almost certainly going to get that move.  Those 10 points are 10 points you can count on if you're playing endgame correctly, because it's bigger for you to play it than your opponent.  If your opponent does get it that either means that you made a mistake and didn't play it early enough, or your opponent did and there's still larger points on the board.  So you can count on those 10 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2367" LastEditorUserId="2367" LastEditDate="2014-11-14T14:18:21.347" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T14:18:21.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20719" CreationDate="2014-11-14T14:11:53.160" Score="6" ViewCount="2933" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRootwater%20Hunter%5d&quot;&gt;Rootwater Hunter&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharisma%5d&quot;&gt;Charisma&lt;/a&gt; and I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTar%20Pitcher%5d&quot;&gt;Tar Pitcher&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tap Tar Pitcher to sacrifice it to deal 2 damage to my opponent. In response, my opponent taps Rootwater Hunter to deal one damage to Tar Pitcher. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent's ability resolves first, he gains control of my Tar Pitcher. Tar Pitcher's ability is still on the stack. I referenced &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3563/mtg-activated-abilities-and-change-of-control-on-the-stack&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; so I know it tries to resolve but I am no longer in control of that creature to sacrifice it. Is Tar Pitcher successfully sacrificed and 2 damage dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T15:25:11.093" Title="Can I sacrifice a creature that I lost control of after activating its ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20718" CreationDate="2014-11-14T14:22:31.910" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work as described because by the time your opponent has priority to activate the Rootwater Hunter the Tar Pitcher is already in the graveyard. This is because in order to put an ability on the stack you need to pay all of the costs associated with it before your opponent gets priority, in this case that involves sacrificing the Tar Pitcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for activating abilities share the same rules as casting spells, excerpts of the relevant rules are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2e&lt;/strong&gt; The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2g&lt;/strong&gt; The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can't be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2h&lt;/strong&gt; Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just substitute ability for spell and you can see that you pay all of the costs before the ability is actually counted as played by the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-14T14:22:31.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20539" CreationDate="2014-11-15T00:25:09.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;wipeout&quot; is an example of such an ending, too! It's not something that happens to serious players, but it certainly happens to casual players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T00:25:09.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2014-11-15T02:10:21.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally use a XML/XSLT/CSS approach:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All my cards are simple xml files with the stat and text&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then i transform them to a html file with the card structure using an XSLT style-sheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then i add all the visual design with css&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The result is then converted to a png file&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use a python scrip to for this, the lxml library converts the xml to the html and weasyprint produces the png file&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that it may be a little complicated to design the html/css but it is the best choice in the long run, i can change the design of all my cards simply modifying some lines in the css file and double clicking the python scrip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Creating the cards as drawing in GIMP or similar would make managing many cards near impossible.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9967" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T02:10:21.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2014-11-15T05:07:09.660" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am designing a game (already in public testing) in which everything is about the order of the cards in the deck. Of course, it isn't a MtG or YGO copy. It would not work in those systems for the reasons K.L. said.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my game, players start with a set number of 'characters' and a deck of 10 cards per character. Each card card represent actions that a character can do, such as moving or attacking to gain health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The interesting part is that every five turns, all discarded cards go to the back of the deck in the same order they were discarded &lt;strong&gt;AND&lt;/strong&gt; that they may draw any number of cards from their deck every turn but they must discard every unused card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This creates an interesting game play of cost reward analysis in which the player is trying to pull a good combo of cards (which cards to discard and which to keep). The 'ideal strategy' changes constantly depending on what is available to the players at the moment and what they may choose to do with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'chaos' in each match does not have to come from randomness in card draw, but from the players' choices in situations where there is no obvious 'perfect strategy', plus an unlimited number of other things such as card effects that are outside player control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also&lt;/strong&gt;, the idea that you should not create a new game just because somebody else did a good one before you is just &lt;strong&gt;false&lt;/strong&gt;. If people chose not to create games out of fear that it would not be good enough, there would be &lt;strong&gt;no games&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9967" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T15:58:05.223" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T15:58:05.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4783" CreationDate="2014-11-15T14:33:38.187" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N9dwO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iIC6r.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BllZD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cards if played in order shown will get you twice many wolves as you have land on top of the wolves from your howlpack alpha and however many wolves you have played after door of destinys comes into play they get pumped. I had 80 80/80 wolves after i used one howl of the night pack and one reverberate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9968" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T14:33:38.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-15T19:53:07.133" Score="1" ViewCount="13344" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a friend of mine bought a new deck today which is (heavily) based on &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Extort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extort&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell, you may pay &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViUa7.gif&quot; alt=&quot;{W/B}&quot;&gt; If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now I wonder how exactly does it work? Does he have to pay &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViUa7.gif&quot; alt=&quot;{W/B}&quot;&gt; for EACH creature with &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt; for each spell he plays or is 1 &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViUa7.gif&quot; alt=&quot;{W/B}&quot;&gt; enough to let &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt; trigger from all creatures? An example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player has 5 lands and 3 creatures with &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt; ability. He then plays an &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=259711&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; for 3 mana(&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uEh2d.gif&quot; alt=&quot;2 colorless mana&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/W3bJm.gif&quot; alt=&quot;{W}&quot;&gt;), so he now has 2 mana left. If he taps one, would all 3 &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt;s trigger or just one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the text I would assume the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell, if you pay &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ViUa7.gif&quot; alt=&quot;{W/B}&quot;&gt; extra, then &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt; ability will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So am I right or is &lt;em&gt;Extort&lt;/em&gt; a pretty useless ability that should be paid on each creature separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T01:34:51.903" Title="How exactly does Extort ability work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20724" CreationDate="2014-11-15T20:24:08.183" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right that Extort costs {W/B} for each creature: each instance of Extort is a separate triggered ability. Each one triggers, and then your friend may pay for the first, for the second, and so on. He cannot pay for multiple triggers with just one mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I wouldn't call it useless. It's a repeatable ping for one mana at a time. It's life loss, so it can't be prevented by damage prevention effects. It hits &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; opponent, so it scales in multiplayer. Late game it provides a nice mana sink. I've played against it in Commander and it's a fairly consistent threat. It's probably better in Commander than last standard or modern because of those: longer games with higher mana bases and scaling with opponents help the ability out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T20:24:08.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20724" CreationDate="2014-11-15T20:25:00.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes he would have to pay for each trigger but I wouldn't say it is useless because if he would only have one creature with extort he could only pay one mana at most. If he has three creatures with extort he can pay up to three mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-11-15T20:25:00.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20724" CreationDate="2014-11-15T22:31:24.247" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the text I would assume the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell, if you pay {W/B} extra, then Extort ability will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is incorrect. The triggering event is &lt;em&gt;you cast a spell&lt;/em&gt;. Each time that event occurs, the ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;em&gt;resolution&lt;/em&gt;, you may pay {W/B} and cause life loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player has 5 lands and 3 creatures with Extort ability. He then plays an Oblivion Ring for 3 mana ({2}{W}), so he now has 2 mana left. If he taps one, would all 3 Extorts trigger or just one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three trigger. Note that no time exists between Oblivion Ring being cast and Extort triggering. You don't have to option to tap anything then or when you place the ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the third ability stacked resolves, you may pay {W/B}. If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the second ability stacked resolves, you may pay {W/B}. If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the first ability stacked resolves, you may pay {W/B}. If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can cause each opponent to lose up to three life, but each life lost will cost you a mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Michael Snook explained how this isn't useless. This post is mostly about correcting your understanding of triggered abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T01:34:51.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2014-11-16T06:04:02.467" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a little setup work, Adobe InDesign can be a great tool for iterating on card designs.  My process looks something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Setup an XLS or Numbers file with all the data for my cards.  Different columns for different stats, text, card names, etc.  By having it in a spreadsheet, you can do a lot of analysis on the stats, and it makes it easy to change values.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Export the XLS to a CSV file.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Create a template in InDesign for a single card layout. Create placeholders in the template for dynamic data&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use the DataMerge feature in InDesign to pull in the CSV file.  Drag the appropriate data values into the placeholders on the template.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now you can push the Create Merged Document button, and the magic happens. It will use the data in your CSV file to create a card for each row in the file, filling in the placeholders with the appropriate data for each card.  It will also lay them out and fit as many on a single page as possible - so it's easy to print and cut decks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes some setup, but once you've got a template set up, you can change the data in the spreadsheet, re-import, and get a new set of cards.  Great for heavy iteration cycles.  You can also use this technique to pull in external image assets (PNG, JPG, AI).  A little google searching should get you going pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9975" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T06:04:02.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-16T12:29:08.503" Score="-1" ViewCount="1251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob had a straight to the 8 and Alice had a straight the 8, Bob had a 4 &amp;amp; Queen, Alice had a 8 &amp;amp; Jack. Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9977" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T06:41:31.480" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T06:41:31.480" Title="Two players have a straight to the 8" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|poker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-11-18T22:13:52.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20729" CreationDate="2014-11-16T12:47:50.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you mean in Texas Hold'em (which you should probably state), then they tie. In Texas Hold'em, you make your best five-card hand out of the seven cards you have available to you. It sounds like from your description that Alice was holding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 J&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that Bob was holding&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 Q&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which would mean that the board had to have on it (since both of them had a straight to the 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 5 6 7 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which means that the best possible five-card hand that both players could have (in fact, that any player could have*) are the five cards on the board. As such, all players tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, the J/Q in that they are holding aren't even part of their hands when it come to determining the winner, and so are irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; * Well, that's not completely true. If another player were holding a 9, or a 9 10, then they would have a straight that was 9 or 10 high, which would obviously beat an 8-high straight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8242" LastEditorUserId="8242" LastEditDate="2014-11-16T18:34:13.553" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T18:34:13.553" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20732" CreationDate="2014-11-16T22:50:47.453" Score="1" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270961&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Izzet Guildgate&lt;/a&gt; be tapped for colorless mana? For example, could I tap 7 Guildgates to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T15:24:41.490" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T15:24:41.490" Title="Can a Guildgate be tapped for colorless?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20731" CreationDate="2014-11-16T23:31:45.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use a guildgate to help pay for Karn, but it doesn't involve colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you see a grey circle with a number mana symbol in a cost, like the {7} in Karn's casting cost, that's actually called a &lt;em&gt;generic&lt;/em&gt; mana cost. You can spend any color of mana to pay for that cost. So you can, say, tap an Izzet Guildgate for red (or blue) mana and use that to pay for one of that seven mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colorless mana, on the other hand, is what's &lt;em&gt;produced&lt;/em&gt; when you see something like &amp;quot;add {1} to your mana pool&amp;quot;, again with the grey circle with a number, for example on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tomb%20of%20the%20Spirit%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Tomb of the Spirit Dragon&lt;/a&gt;. You can use that to pay for generic mana costs too - so you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use colorless mana to cast Karn, but you don't have to. Any color will do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2014-11-16T23:31:45.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20734" CreationDate="2014-11-17T00:51:15.920" Score="4" ViewCount="15942" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I flashback &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Past%20in%20Flames&quot;&gt;Past in Flames&lt;/a&gt; and it is countered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;, is it exiled or put back into my graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T00:58:32.020" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T02:18:07.913" Title="Is a countered flashback spell exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20733" CreationDate="2014-11-17T00:58:15.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you counter a spell cast for its Flashback cost from the graveyard, it gets exiled. The rule that covers flashback is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Flashback&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;702.33a&lt;/a&gt;, and it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player's graveyard and the other that functions while the card is on the stack. &amp;quot;Flashback [cost]&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost&amp;quot; and &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e-g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countering a spell normally sends it to the graveyard (or, in some cases, exile, its owner's hand, or their library), but the flashback ability makes it go to exile instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that if a counterspell says to exile the spell it's countering (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spelljack&quot;&gt;Spelljack&lt;/a&gt;, for example), and then does something with it after it's exiled, that still happens. That's because if the spell is getting exiled anyway, the flashback ability doesn't change anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T02:18:07.913" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T02:18:07.913" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20735" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20737" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:08:45.100" Score="-2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm playing Modern Format, can I use an Eighth Edition &lt;em&gt;Air Elemental&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T15:07:53.307" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T15:07:53.307" Title="Can I use a card from Eighth Edition in Modern Format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-11-19T08:04:13.720" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20740" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:18:01.570" Score="0" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a &lt;em&gt;Howlgeist&lt;/em&gt; that I enchanted with &lt;em&gt;Oath of Ancient Wood&lt;/em&gt; so it has a +1/+1 counter on it, when it dies does it not come back because of the +1/+1 counter even though it wasn't put there by Undying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T01:36:27.620" Title="What happens when a card with undying dies that has a +1/+1 counter put on it by something other that undying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20735" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:19:03.543" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eighth Edition cards are &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/modern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;legal in Modern&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Air Elemental is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Printings.aspx?multiverseid=45255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;legal in Modern&lt;/a&gt;, no matter what set it's from&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;, because it's found in a legal set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this isn't relevant to Air Elemental (since its text never changed), keep in mind that the text printed on the card is irrelevant; one always uses the Oracle text and other information found in Gatherer to determine the characteristics of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subject to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/19015/2880&quot;&gt;usual requirements&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:58:57.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20739" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:24:04.247" Score="0" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm playing casual without a specific format but I'm still trying the rules, what happens when a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20the%20Mind%20Sculptor&quot;&gt;Jace, the Mind Sculptor&lt;/a&gt; is played?  It is banned from Modern but not from Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T21:18:24.580" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T21:18:24.580" Title="What happens when a Jace, the Mind Sculptor is played in an unspecific format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-11-20T00:30:55.640" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20738" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:27:35.183" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your and your opponent either agree to a format (in which case, you follow the restriction of that format), or you agree to use your own format (in which case you get to decide what cards are allowed in it). The rules have no say in this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T14:51:16.230" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:51:16.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20736" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:29:54.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Undying doesn't care how the +1/+1 counter got there. Undying won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if Undying previously placed a +1/+1 counter on a permanent, but the counter got removed &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/som/en/63.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;somehow&lt;/a&gt; before the permanent died a second time, Undying will trigger and bring the card back a second time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T01:36:27.620" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T01:36:27.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20742" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:35:24.060" Score="3" ViewCount="3539" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;. That gives me an extra turn after this one. Then I activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ral%20Zarek&quot;&gt;Ral Zarek&lt;/a&gt;'s ultimate and only get one extra turn (one) heads. Will the &lt;em&gt;Emrakul&lt;/em&gt;'s extra turn meld with &lt;em&gt;Ral Zarek&lt;/em&gt;'s so I only get 1 extra turn, or will I get two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T01:37:50.510" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T01:39:51.440" Title="What happens if I have two different cards that give me an extra turn after this one?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20741" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:39:51.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get two extra turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;500.7. Some effects can give a player extra turns. They do this by adding the turns directly after the current turn. If a player gets multiple extra turns or if multiple players get extra turns during a single turn, the extra turns are added one at a time. The most recently created turn will be taken first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T01:39:51.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20743" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20744" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:41:10.907" Score="0" ViewCount="1924" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pathraizer%20of%20Ulamog&quot;&gt;Pathraizer of Ulamog&lt;/a&gt;. One of my opponents cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt; on it to take control of it. Then my other opponent casts the same spell. How can they both control it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T01:44:27.330" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T01:47:38.127" Title="What happens when two players both play Control Magic on the same creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20743" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:47:38.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last effect created takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 613 resolves interaction of Continuous Effects. The rules relevant to this specific question are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.6. Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.6a A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuous effects are continually reevaluated. This means that destroying the second Control Magic gives control of Pathraizer to the controller of the first Control Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T01:47:38.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20745" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20747" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:49:53.727" Score="3" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ob%20Nixilis%20of%20the%20Black%20Oath&quot;&gt;Ob Nixilis of the Black Oath&lt;/a&gt; and the other Commanders in Commander 2014 say they can be your Commander. Doesn't that contradict the rule that Commanders can only be Legendary Creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T14:19:08.180" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T15:18:29.670" Title="Don't the Planeswalkers in Commander 2014 that say they can be your Commander contradict the fact the Commanders have to be legendary creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20745" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:55:24.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;[&lt;em&gt;Ob Nixilis wasn't Legendary at the time this answer was written, but every Planeswalker was subsequently made Legendary. The question and answers are still pertinent because Ob Nixilis is still not a creature.&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. Commanders are normally Legendary Creatures, and Ob Nixilis is neither Legendary nor a Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.1. In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's fine because of the first Golden Rule of Magic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card’s text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. The card overrides only the rule that applies to that specific situation. The only exception is that a player can concede the game at any time (see rule 104.3a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it didn't, there would be no reason to put that ability on the card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2020-01-13T15:18:29.670" LastActivityDate="2020-01-13T15:18:29.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20745" CreationDate="2014-11-17T01:55:36.300" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very first of Magic's Golden Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card’s text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. The card overrides only the rule that applies to that specific situation. The only exception is that a player can concede the game at any time (see rule 104.3a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, they contradict, and it's fine. And this isn't really unusual; tons and tons of cards have text that effectively says &amp;quot;now the rules work a little differently, and here's how.&amp;quot; For an extreme example, the rules say you lose the game when you're reduced to 0 or less life, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; says you can't lose the game, and it takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T14:53:33.707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T14:53:33.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20750" CreationDate="2014-11-17T02:07:34.593" Score="9" ViewCount="34142" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays a vampire deck and has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vampire%20Nocturnus&quot;&gt;Vampire Nocturnus&lt;/a&gt; out. It says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play with the top card of your library revealed. As long as the top&#xA;card of your library is black, Vampire Nocturnus and other Vampire&#xA;creatures you control get +2/+1 and have flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top card of their library is a swamp. Does the swamp count as a black card (giving their vampires +2/+1 and flying), or is it colorless (meaning the vampires remain unbuffed)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T04:52:28.407" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T00:07:25.203" Title="Are lands colorless?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20753" CreationDate="2014-11-17T02:12:48.877" Score="1" ViewCount="4394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about the &amp;quot;Timeshifted&amp;quot; cards. I looked at the Wizards of the Coast rarity scale. How rare are they and are they valid in Modern? (example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undertaker&quot;&gt;Undertaker&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:48:20.327" Title="What is the &quot;Timeshifted&quot; rarity?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20748" CreationDate="2014-11-17T02:18:04.007" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The color of a card is determine by its mana cost and by its color indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see from &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=t%3Aland+c!wubrg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this search of the complete database of Magic cards&lt;/a&gt;, no land has a mana cost, and only one land has a color indicator, so &lt;strong&gt;all lands are colorless&lt;/strong&gt; except for that one land, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDryad%20Arbor%5d&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2. An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.1. A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;202.1b Some objects have no mana cost. This normally includes all land cards [...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2e An object may have a color indicator printed to the left of the type line. That object is each color denoted by that color indicator. (See rule 204.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Commander has the separate concept of a card's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Color_identity&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;color identity&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which is not to be confused with a card's &lt;em&gt;color&lt;/em&gt; (despite the names). Color identity counts all mana symbols appearing anywhere on the card. This concept is exclusive to commander, though, and while a swamp has a &lt;em&gt;color identity&lt;/em&gt; of black, Swamps are still colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-03-06T00:07:25.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20749" CreationDate="2014-11-17T02:23:55.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rarity has nothing to do with legality. The timeshifted expansion symbol color just indicates that the card is a reprint in the Time Spiral set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legality in different formats depends on what sets a card was printed in. Undertaker, for example, was printed in Mercadian Masques and Time Spiral, so any version of Undertaker is legal in any format that allows either Mercadian Masques or Time Spiral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/modern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The modern format&lt;/a&gt; lists Time Spiral, Planar Chaos, and Future Sight as legal sets, so any cards from those sets (other than specifically banned cards), including timeshifted cards, are legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As ikegami says in his answer, each Time Spiral pack contained exactly one timeshifted card, so they were about as common as rare cards before mythic rares were introduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T02:39:28.970" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T02:39:28.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20749" CreationDate="2014-11-17T02:31:56.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Timeshifted were rather special. Every booster pack from the Time Spiral block had one Timeshifted card, and each Timeshifted card was equally likely to be the included card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quoting Wikipedia,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Timeshifted cards are distributed one per booster pack and three per tournament pack (taking the place of common cards), and also appear in the preconstructed decks. According to DCI-distributed tournament primers, Timeshifted cards are tournament legal where Time Spiral or the set of original printing are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that since the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/modern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Modern format&lt;/a&gt; includes Time Spiral, it &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Printings.aspx?multiverseid=108791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;includes&lt;/a&gt; Undertaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T02:31:56.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20749" CreationDate="2014-11-17T03:48:20.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Timeshifted cards are (slightly more than) 1.5 times as rare as Rare cards from Time Spiral. There were 80 Rare cards and 121 Timeshifted cards in the set, and each booster pack included 1 Rare card and 1 Timeshifted card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the rarity distributions, each Mythic Rare in a large set appears in 1 out of every 121 boosters, meaning that they are exactly as rare as Timeshifted cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite using the old borders, Timeshifted cards are legal in Modern, since they were printed in Time Spiral, which is a Modern-legal set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every Timeshifted card is a reprint of a card from a set prior to 8th Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Planar Chaos and Future Sight sets had their own versions of Timeshifted cards, but they did not have their own rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9983" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T03:48:20.327" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2014-11-17T08:51:28.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Inkscape with the countersheet extension &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/lifelike/countersheetsextension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://github.com/lifelike/countersheetsextension&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension will take a csv file and use some basic pattern matching to allow images and text to be defined per card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a getting started video &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xcf20p_intro-to-inkscape-boardgame-extensi_creation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xcf20p_intro-to-inkscape-boardgame-extensi_creation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My only tip would be to scale any raster images to the correct size before importing them to Inkscape, otherwise the svg will consume a lot of memory and be very slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T08:51:28.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20756" CreationDate="2014-11-17T12:43:35.110" Score="1" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;Example, if I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archon%20of%20Redemption&quot;&gt;Archon of Redemption&lt;/a&gt; out and my opponent played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arrest&quot;&gt;Arrest&lt;/a&gt; on it (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arrest&quot;&gt;Arrest&lt;/a&gt; says that the creature's activated abilities cant be activated). When something with flying enters the battlefield can I still gain life equal to its toughness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T19:34:05.727" Title="Are activated abilities only abilities with mana costs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20755" CreationDate="2014-11-17T12:51:04.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Archon of Redemption's ability is a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt; and will not be effected by Arrest. Arrest affects &lt;em&gt;activated abilities&lt;/em&gt;, described by rule 602.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.1. Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation&#xA;instructions (if any).]”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Silverback&quot;&gt;Ancient Silverback&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heritage%20Druid&quot;&gt;Heritage Druid&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fume%20Spitter&quot;&gt;Fume Spitter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Triggered abilities&lt;/em&gt;, like the Archon's, are described by rule 603.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, whether or not mana is involved has no bearing on the classification of the ability (except in the specific case where mana is &lt;em&gt;produced&lt;/em&gt;, but we'll ignore that for this conversation).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activated abilities can have a mana cost (R: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shivan%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt; gets +1/+0 until end of turn) or not (T: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prodigal%20Sorcerer&quot;&gt;Prodigal Sorcerer&lt;/a&gt; deals 1 damage to target creature or player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, triggered abilities can have optional costs (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Apothecary%20Initiate&quot;&gt;Apothecary Initiate&lt;/a&gt;'s Whenever a player casts a white spell, you may pay {1}. If you do, you gain 1 life). The Archon's triggered ability is an example of one that does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9948" LastEditorUserId="9948" LastEditDate="2014-11-17T19:34:05.727" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T19:34:05.727" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20757" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20779" CreationDate="2014-11-18T00:25:01.480" Score="3" ViewCount="461" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contract is 3 NT, and the bidding has been a straightforward, 1NT, pass, 3NT, all pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West leads the king of diamonds from AKTxx. The defenders have agreed that this means three honors, counting the K (if West had AKxxx without the T, he'd lead A, then K or low, depending on how others play). But West could have AKQxx or KQJxx, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dummy (North) has two little ones, E has J72, and South has Qxx. South is going to win a trick with the Q if all the diamond leads come from West.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;East has an ace in spades, hearts, or clubs. Given this, and the defenders' diamond honors, there aren't enough points left for other entries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If East gets a lead to his ace, he can return a diamond to the AT tenace, trapping South's queen for five diamond tricks plus the side trick (down two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this sequence, can East play the J, 7, or 2, depending on the location of his side suit ace as a suit preference signal? Put another way, is it possible to have a suit preference signal in three suits in no trump (rather than two in a trump contract)? Or if the defenders agreed to play this way, and lead as described above, would they be giving up too many options (e.g. attitude and count signals) on other hands where the layout was slightly different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T23:13:44.100" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T14:21:18.340" Title="Is there a reasonable suit preference signal on this lead?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20758" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-17T18:18:17.593" Score="3" ViewCount="35139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Magic: The Gathering with couple of friends.&#xA;I was asked a question when we came to a situation where we could put two Auras on one Creature. Can one enchant a create with more than one Aura?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" OwnerDisplayName="Damaskox" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-07-21T19:34:08.327" LastActivityDate="2017-07-21T19:34:08.327" Title="How many Auras can enchant one Creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20758" CreationDate="2014-11-17T18:31:26.317" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can have any number of Enchantments attached to a given Creature, unless the cards themselves say otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5045" OwnerDisplayName="Sconibulus" LastActivityDate="2014-11-17T18:31:26.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20758" CreationDate="2014-11-18T14:30:45.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure you can! &#xA;That's it, if the cards don't state otherwise and the creature is a valid target for every one of the enchantments. And as you can cast several enchantments on the same turn you even can do it on just one turn.There's no a thing like a 'limit' on the number of enchantments one can cast over a given creature. &#xA;Just consider strategic-wise if it's convenient for you to put two or more auras on a creature that could be wiped out by a single card from your adversary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6918" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T14:30:45.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20761" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T15:50:34.600" Score="0" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent and I encountered a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Volcanic%20Geyser&quot;&gt;Volcanic Geyser&lt;/a&gt;, which let me choose to deal damage to an opponent Creature, or the opponent Player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chandra%27s%20Phoenix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chandra's Phoenix&lt;/a&gt; in my Graveyard, when I cast the Geyser on my opponent's Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am asking about the Phoenix's text. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever an opponent is dealt damage by a red instant or sorcery spell you control or by a red planeswalker you control, return Chandra's Phoenix from your graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mattere if I deal the damage to a opponent &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;player&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; or an opponent &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;creature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Can I choose which one I deal damage to, and still fulfill the conditions to return the Phoenix in my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T22:26:14.390" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T22:26:14.390" Title="Conditions about returning Chandra's Phoenix in one's hand" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20761" CreationDate="2014-11-18T15:53:21.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chandra's Phoenix won't trigger if you deal damage to an opponent's creature. You have to deal damage to the player himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T15:53:21.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20761" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:01:03.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chandra's Phoenix's ability triggers &lt;em&gt;whenever an &lt;strong&gt;opponent&lt;/strong&gt; is dealt damage by ...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;102.2. In a two-player game, a player’s opponent is the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;102.3. In a multiplayer game between teams, a player’s teammates are the other players on his or her team, and the player’s opponents are all players not on his or her team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would have to target and deal damage to your opponent using Volcanic Geyser, not one of his creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T16:01:03.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20761" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:01:18.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opponent&lt;/em&gt; only refers to players, not creatures. Chandra's Phoenix will not trigger if you target a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive Rules reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;102.2. In a two-player game, a player’s &lt;em&gt;opponent&lt;/em&gt; is the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;102.3. In a multiplayer game between teams, a player’s &lt;em&gt;teammates&lt;/em&gt; are the other players on his or her team, and the player’s opponents are all players not on his or her team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T16:01:18.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:07:12.137" Score="3" ViewCount="1566" Body="&lt;p&gt;An opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Banisher%20Priest&quot;&gt;Banisher Priest&lt;/a&gt; exiled my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Shortcutter&quot;&gt;Goblin Shortcutter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I was reading some rules, I came across the fact that in some situations exiled cards face upwards and sometimes downwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What factor determines whether the card gets exiled face up or face down? The text on the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T00:29:50.363" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T00:29:50.363" Title="Exiling Creatures: When is the card face up and when face down?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20766" CreationDate="2014-11-18T16:12:34.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the ability says to exile the card face down, you exile it face down. Otherwise, you exile it face up. Banisher Priest doesn't say to exile the creature face down, so you exile it face up. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Exile&quot;&gt;Rule 406.3&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exiled cards are, by default, kept face up and may be examined by any player at any time.&lt;/strong&gt; Cards &quot;exiled face down&quot; can't be examined by any player except when instructions allow it. However, once a player is allowed to look at a card exiled face down, that player may continue to look at that card as long as it remains exiled, even if the instruction allowing the player to do so no longer applies. A card exiled face down has no characteristics, but the spell or ability that exiled it may allow it to be played from exile. Unless that card is being cast face down (see rule 707.4), the card is turned face up just before the player announces that he or she is playing the card (see rule 601.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that the point of exiling a card face down is to keep players from knowing what it is. It wouldn't make sense to exile a card face down if everyone already knows what it is. The only abilities that say to exile face down are abilities that exile from hidden zones: the hand and the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T16:37:58.633" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T16:37:58.633" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20768" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20769" CreationDate="2014-11-18T17:08:34.373" Score="-2" ViewCount="17490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Seakite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nephalia Seakite&lt;/a&gt; in my deck, and it has Flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Flash&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation&lt;/a&gt; that &quot;Flash is a keyword ability which allows cards to be played at any time you could play an Instant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am not understanding, what I am reading.&#xA;Does Seakite's skill give me a chance to summon whatever I like (as long as the Mana meets), whenever I like, for as long as it stays in the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example: With this skill, can I summon a creature of my own in the middle of my opponent's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T18:45:29.647" Title="What is the ability Flash about?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20768" CreationDate="2014-11-18T17:15:58.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The keyword ability &lt;em&gt;Flash&lt;/em&gt; only applies to the card which has it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you could play Nephalia Seakite during your opponent's turn. It doesn't apply to any other card unless that card also has &lt;em&gt;Flash&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T17:15:58.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20768" CreationDate="2014-11-18T17:16:05.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flash allows the card that has flash to be played at any time you could play an instant. It does not allow you to play any other cards at any time you have an instant. So Flash doesn't mean anything once it's on the battlefield. The actual rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.8a Flash is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on. &amp;quot;Flash&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;You may play this card any time you could cast an instant.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can summon a creature that has flash during your opponent's turn; just like you can cast an instant during your opponent's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you could wait for your opponent to attack you with his 2/2, cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nephalia%20Seakite&quot;&gt;Nephalia Seakite&lt;/a&gt; at the end of his Declare Attackers Step (on his turn), then block the attacker with the Seakite to destroy the attacker. Only the Seakite can be cast as an instant (unless you have another card with Flash), and once the Seakite is on the battlefield, its Flash has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-18T18:45:29.647" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T18:45:29.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20663" CreationDate="2014-11-18T18:40:46.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a normal joseki, with the stone on the third line, Black would just want to play the attachment, and that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above (handicap) joseki, the stone is on the 4-4 point, on the fourth line, which is to say that it is further from the side, and actually a bit WEAKER than in the other case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, Black doesn't mind &quot;retreating,&quot; and possibly playing an extra move on the 3-2 point to stabilize his corner position (the 3-3 point is best, with the 3-2 being a close second).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, there is plenty of &quot;aji&quot; for White. That might not be so bad in an even game, but a lot of the time that the 4-4 point joseki is played this way, it's a handicap game with White two, three, or even more stones stronger than Black. If so, the aji gives White a major advantage in such situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T18:40:46.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20772" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20773" CreationDate="2014-11-18T18:58:14.240" Score="7" ViewCount="10324" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does your commander still count as being your commander if it is turned face down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have my commander on the battlefield and my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ixidron&quot;&gt;Ixidron&lt;/a&gt;. Ixidron then turns my commander face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures turned face down by Ixidron are 2/2 creatures with no text,&#xA;no name, no subtypes, no expansion symbol, and no mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will my face down commander still:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal commander damage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;enable &amp;quot;Lieutenant&amp;quot; abilities?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the result different if my commander is turned face down by another means?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T19:01:16.017" Title="Is your commander still a &quot;commander&quot; if it gets turned face down?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-13T15:07:40.013" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20772" CreationDate="2014-11-18T19:01:16.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just discovered that this exact circumstance is described in the rules. It will remain your commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.3. Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object&#xA;  represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card&#xA;  itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;strong&gt;A commander that’s been turned face down (due to Ixidron’s&#xA;  effect, for example) is still a commander.&lt;/strong&gt; A commander that’s copying&#xA;  another card (due to Cytoshape’s effect, for example) is still a&#xA;  commander. A permanent that’s copying a commander (such as a Body&#xA;  Double, for example, copying a commander in a player’s graveyard) is&#xA;  not a commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T19:01:16.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18542" CreationDate="2014-11-18T21:54:15.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Online-go.com has two bots to play and you don't need an account.&#xA;The levels of the bots are 26 kyu and 13 kyu.&#xA;Also the bots are always available to play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To challenge a bot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go to online-go.com click game lobby and chat on the sidebar.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click new game which is located by the bottom left of  the chat box&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A popup will appear on your screen, click in the top left on the icon of the globe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A dropdown menu will appear click on the option that says computer&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can then specify the game settings.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Click on Challenge and enjoy!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2014-11-18T21:54:15.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-18T22:57:08.113" Score="8" ViewCount="2217" Body="&lt;p&gt;When completing a destination card, does the train have to be started from the beginning city on the card or can it be started from the destination city and worked backwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9996" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T00:11:13.363" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T02:05:37.600" Title="Do destination cards have to be completed in a particular direction?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20775" CreationDate="2014-11-19T00:08:12.273" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you need is an unbroken chain between the two cities. It doesn't matter which way you started it, how many cities are in between, or whether it is the most direct route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/usa/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Destination Ticket includes the name of two cities on the map and&#xA;  a Point Value. If a player successfully completes a series of routes&#xA;  that connect the two cities, they will &lt;em&gt;add&lt;/em&gt; the amount of points&#xA;  indicated on the Destination Ticket to their point totals at the end&#xA;  of the game. If they do not successfully connect the two cities, they&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;deduct&lt;/em&gt; the amount of points indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride: Europe&lt;/em&gt; are similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, by the end of the game, a player has created a continuous path of his color plastic trains between the two cities named on a Destination Ticket he holds, he scores the additional points indicated by the Point Value on the Ticket. If he has failed to complete a continuous path between those cities, he deducts the Point Value on the Ticket from his total score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-07-24T02:05:37.600" LastActivityDate="2017-07-24T02:05:37.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:28:39.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer&lt;/strong&gt;: Buy the &lt;strong&gt;What Lies Ahead&lt;/strong&gt; data pack.  That with the core set lets you build two legal runner decks and two legal corp decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Longer answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume from your question that you've already read the rules on deck building and aren't just trying to build the starter decks.  If you're thinking about buying data packs, you pretty much have to be building custom decks for things to even make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just going to play you're own decks against each other, you can do whatever you want in terms of deck building.  When limited in cards, ignoring influence limits is the best way to be able to follow agenda density requirements and deck minimums.  As long as your decks are fun to play against each other, that's really what matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to follow all the deck-building rules, here's the run down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Runner Decks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base game comes with enough cards for you to be able to build two legal runner decks by having each run cards from the third faction.  Remember that you can spend up to 15 influence on out of faction cards (at least for the core set identities).  For the runners, all they need to do is get up to 45 cards (at least for the core set identities) while still staying under influence limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume we're making Shaper and Anarch decks.  The core set comes with 31 shaper cards and 32 anarch cards, with 15 neutral cards.  If we split the neutral cards between the two, that means we have two decks of 39 and still haven't used any influence.  That means each deck can run 6 criminal cards and has 15 influence to spend doing so.  Between Forged Activation Orders, Special Order, Easy Mark, Femme Fetale, and Bank Job, (all either 1 or 2 influence per copy) you're good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corp Decks&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary limitation in building decks is the corp's agenda requirement.  The core set does not come with enough agendas to legally build multiple corp decks.  This is problematic because agendas cannot be run in decks of other factions (they have no influence value, which is different than having an influence of zero).  Of secondary concern for the corp is ICE.  The rule book suggests 17 - 20 pieces of ice for a 45 - 49 card deck.  This is an area where the corps might be hurting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck building rules require 20 - 21 agenda points for the 45 - 49 deck size required by all the core set identities.  Given the core set only ships with 5 or 6 points of agendas in each faction and 15 points of neutral agendas, we need more to work with here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The data pack What Lies Ahead is the best of the data packs for enabling more decks because it contains an agenda of each faction.  If you only buy this data pack, one of your corp decks must be NBN, as you need the 3-point Restructured Datapool.  This lets you run the neutral Private Security Forces in your NBN deck and the Priority Requisitions in your other corp deck of choice (along with the core set agendas and the corresponding What Lies Ahead agendas) and have two corp decks that meet agenda density requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now on to the ICE issue.  NBN (which must be one of your corps because of agendas) starts with 9 pieces of ICE from the core set, and gain another 3 (TMI) from What Lies Ahead.  If we split the core set's 6 pieces of neutral ICE (Wall of Static and Enigma) between our two corp decks, that means the NBN deck is already up to 15 pieces of ICE.  This means you only need 2 - 5 pieces of out-of-faction ICE which is fine on a 15 influence budget (look at Ice Wall, Shadow, Rototurret, Chum, and Wall of Thorns for 1-influence ICE).  You also get the neutral ICE Draco in What Lies Ahead, which probably works well in the NBN deck (goes with the &quot;trace&quot; theme).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the other corporations have at least 9 pieces of ICE in the core set, get another three from What Lies Ahead (though if you're running Haas-Bioroid, you'll probably need a Priority Requisition or an Accelerated Beta Test to be able to rez Janus 1.0, so maybe don't run all three copies of him), which leaves you in a similar situation to the NBN deck.  Pretty easy to get to the 17 - 20 range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that What Lies Ahead includes a piece of ICE and an Agenda for each of the four corporations is what makes it the ideal data pack to buy if you're just going to buy one.  Also, Morning Star is amazing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2x2 Netrunner:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to how you're playing 2x2 Netrunner, as the standard rulebook does not support this at all.  The only rules I've run into on the topic were designed for the old Netrunner game (that's Netrunner the CCG, not Android: Netrunner the LCG), but could probably be adapted: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.darkpact.de/netrunner/variants/theBigSellOut.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.darkpact.de/netrunner/variants/theBigSellOut.html&lt;/a&gt;.  That said, the simple solution is just pair off and play two games at the same time.  I'd be interested to know which you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Purchasing Alternative&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All you need from the core set to build multiple starter decks is a set of each of the neutral cards from the core set.  There are ways of buying these sets, such as buying a special of all the &quot;triplicate cards from the core set&quot; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://borntoplaygames.com/product-category/customizable/netrunner/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://borntoplaygames.com/product-category/customizable/netrunner/&lt;/a&gt;.  This would let you use the rulebook's recommended starter decks and have any corporation pair you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T02:36:50.547" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T02:36:50.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15500" CreationDate="2014-11-19T02:48:23.197" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agenda types are not restrictions on scoring.  If they were, the starter Jinteki deck would not be able to win as it contains 6 Security agendas and 3 Initiative Agendas, none of which are over three points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agenda types are presumably there to allow future cards to interact with them.  As of the Lunar Cycle, they are still unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T02:48:23.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20757" CreationDate="2014-11-19T03:57:46.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is reasonable but unpopular, perhaps justifiably so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main problem with using SP here is that declarer may hold no stopper in the suit. East needs a way to encourage with Qxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some top pairs never the less agree to use SP extensively on the opening lead. I have not used this method, but having three suits in play seems impractical. East's card will often be difficult to read, and usually dummy will furnish enough of a clue to rule out one of the side suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do use attitude here, as I do, I suggest following the suggestion of the late Helge Vinje from his &lt;a href=&quot;http://books.google.com/books?id=lES9AAAACAAJ&amp;amp;dq=%22New+Ideas+in+Defensive+Play+in+Bridge.%22&quot;&gt;New Ideas in Defensive Play in Bridge&lt;/a&gt;. He used upside down attitude and would discourage with the J from Jxx. Now when East plays a high card lower than the J West may be well placed to continue with a low card at trick two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T03:57:46.130" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20775" CreationDate="2014-11-19T15:44:45.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note two important points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to start from an end &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt;. You can start in the middle and work out, or start at both ends and work in. Or both at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you lay a new track, it doesn't have to connect to an existing track.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using these two points together in an effort to obfuscate your path from your opponents will become part of your overall strategy as you get better at the game. For example, suppose you need to make a track between A and E. You can go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A-B, B-C, C-D, D-E&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes a single connected line that generally progresses in the direction of your target. A good opponent can use this information to try and block you. Consider something like this instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B-C, D-E, A-B, C-D&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it much harder for your opponents to try and guess where you're going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6837" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-19T17:44:20.973" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T17:44:20.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20781" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-19T19:06:54.580" Score="1" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the Allies win a two on three game of the U.S. and UK against Germany, Japan, and a soon to be conquered Russia described below? If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My brother, my friend and I all sat down last night and we started playing an Axis and Allies game, (Axis and Allies 1942 Second Edition). After about two hours of playing my friend and I, (Allies, with him playing the USSR and America, and me playing the UK) were in trouble as my brother, (Axis, playing both Germany and Japan) was able to capture Moscow with 11 Panzer Tanks. My friend playing the USSR and his second time playing the game immediately proceeded to launch a counter attack on Moscow. He was able to take back Moscow, but at a very heavy cost. left both of the IC countries undefended and Germany just strolled into Russia and took them both. My friend only has 4 tanks left on Russia and no other units available to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side-Note: All of the German controlled African Countries have fallen, but Germany has 8 Submarines in the Atlantic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good news is that while this was going on, my brother left the Japanese Navy wide open to attack and both the UK and the US navies took advantage of this. Now Japan is only left with 1 Battleship, 1 Aircraft Carrier, and 1 Cruiser guarding Japan while the US navy, ( 1 Battleship, 2 Cruisers, 2 Destroyers, 1 Aircraft Carrier, 3 Submarines, and 3 fighters are all within striking range of the Japan homeland his turn. All of the Japanese countries on Asia have fallen either by the US or the UK, and 1/4 of the Island Territories have been conquered. I was wondering what my friend and I could do to improve our chances of beating Germany, as they are most likely going to take Moscow in the next to or three turns. The next time that we play is going to be on 11/20/2014, so any advice would be helpful! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9961" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T08:16:56.297" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T08:16:56.297" Title="Can the Allies win this game, given that Russia is falling?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2014-11-27T18:22:50.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20738" CreationDate="2014-11-19T23:56:43.847" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Formats regulate what cards are allowed in decks and sideboards in the first place.  At the point at which you have already started to play with those cards in the decks, then either the cards are allowed or the game is invalid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2014-11-19T23:56:43.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2014-11-20T00:16:06.233" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is absolutely allowed.  From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/faq/basegame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Development Cards – Progress – Monopoly - In order to find out which resources my opponents have, may I first offer them trades and then play my Monopoly card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. However, players are not compelled to provide correct information on the resources they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is an even better method.  Just count the number of missing cards of each resource and subtract the number in your hand.  There are 19 cards of each resource.  This gets you a more accurate result and players feel less swindled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-07-21T17:24:05.967" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T17:24:05.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2014-11-20T08:16:37.897" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similarly to InDesign, you can use Adobe Photoshop to generate a file for each different card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the template the way you prefer, most important being the colour profile (ISO Coated v2 300% (ECI) is highly recommended if you're planning to print it professionally or even for services like Printerstudio)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give names to your layers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the Excel or Google Docs table with card data like names, costs and so on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Download the table in CSV format&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open &lt;em&gt;Image &gt; Variables &gt; Define&lt;/em&gt; to set up which layers should get changed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Import the CSV file. If it didn't turn out the way you wanted, then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.richmediacs.com/user_manuals/RMCS_PS_Training/Using%20PS%20Variables/UsingVariablesInPS_EXTERNAL.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.richmediacs.com/user_manuals/RMCS_PS_Training/Using%20PS%20Variables/UsingVariablesInPS_EXTERNAL.html&lt;/a&gt; has a lot of good tips on how to make it work better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose &lt;em&gt;File &gt; Export &gt; Data Sets as Files...&lt;/em&gt; to generate a new PSD file for each card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Optional step) It's not well known, but JPEG files can be in CMYK format and in case of Printerstudio, it's recommended to convert your PSD files to JPEG using &lt;em&gt;File &gt; Scripts &gt; Image Processor...&lt;/em&gt;. Just make sure that &lt;em&gt;Convert to RGB&lt;/em&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;unchecked&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10012" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T08:16:37.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20786" CreationDate="2014-11-20T16:48:30.700" Score="-2" ViewCount="1886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stonehorn%20Chanter&quot;&gt;Stonehorn Chanter&lt;/a&gt;, which has lifelink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Stonehorn Chanter deals damage to an opposing player, do I gain life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Stonehorn Chanter deals damage to an opposing creature, do I gain life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-20T17:20:27.433" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:20:27.433" Title="Do I gain life if a creature I control with lifelink deals damage to another creature or player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20785" CreationDate="2014-11-20T16:55:00.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature with lifelink deals damage to anything (creature, planeswalker, or player) with any cause (spell, ability or combat), you gain that much life. That means that yes, dealing damage to a blocking creature in combat makes you gain life from lifelink. Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Lifelink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;702.15b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much life (in addition to any other results that damage causes). See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T16:55:00.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2014-11-20T17:28:13.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having as many of your meeples on the board (-1 for quick scoring) is a very good strategy.  Your meeples can't earn you points sitting in front of you.  You certainly don't want 6 of them stuck in long term places.  Once you start added in other expansions, with more pieces this becomes even more critical.  Each piece used well can make a huge difference on your game.  I personally try to have every single piece on the board by the time I lay my last square (unless it actually lets me score a city or something)  Finishing a road vs. starting a new one with 2-3 segments makes more sense to start another one near the end if you have the pieces left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T17:28:13.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20788" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20798" CreationDate="2014-11-20T17:43:14.187" Score="2" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this fits, if not let me know and I'll delete it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have many/most of the Carcassonne expansions and have spent way too much money doing so.  However my biggest problem is finding out when new expansions are going to become available.  This is a royal pain and I was wondering if anyone has a website or email list that can be watched that gives good timely announcements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T10:51:46.420" Title="Is there a good place to keep updated on Carcassonne News?" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2014-11-20T18:29:55.143" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal of the opening is to develop all your minor pieces as effective as possible and as fast as possible. This means that you want to move every piece only once, and ideally only make one or two pawn movements. You also want to control the centre so that your opponent can't push back your minor piece. This is why you need to control the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the theory above, it only makes sense to move your first pawn two blocks, rather than one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[my rating: 1920]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10017" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T18:29:55.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14273" CreationDate="2014-11-20T18:33:46.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is never any difference in restrictions when a pawn queens, regarding pawns in the same file behind it. &#xA;(Of course you can't overtake the pawn in front)&#xA;[my rating: 1920]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10017" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-22T22:34:06.063" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T22:34:06.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20794" CreationDate="2014-11-20T18:57:29.893" Score="6" ViewCount="2139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature with protection from green in play along with another creature. My opponent plays a green spell that targets a creature I control chosen at random and does damage to it. Does the protection make the creature with protection an invalid target for said spell (automatically targeting my only other creature), or is there a 50/50 chance the protected creature will be targeted resulting in the spell being countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit for clarification (targeted @ the discussion in the comments)&#xA;The situation is slightly different than depicted (was posted via phone, couldn't easily provide links etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Woodlot%20Crawler&quot;&gt;Woodlot Crawler&lt;/a&gt; in play along with another creature. My opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scab-Clan%20Giant&quot;&gt;Scab-Clan Giant&lt;/a&gt;, and its ability triggers. Question is whether my Woodlot Crawler is a legal target for the triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10018" LastEditorUserId="10018" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T12:55:23.390" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T12:55:23.390" Title="Random targeting and protection" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="577" CreationDate="2014-11-20T19:03:49.697" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq-page/93&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Settlers of Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt; offers an &lt;strong&gt;official answer&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly - In order to find out which&#xA;resources my opponents have, may I first offer them trades and then&#xA;play my Monopoly card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. However, players are not compelled to&#xA;provide correct information on the resources they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes, you may ask probing questions about what resources others have&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No, they need not &lt;em&gt;answer&lt;/em&gt; honestly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When Monopoly is played, all players &lt;strong&gt;must surrender&lt;/strong&gt; the named resource regardless of what they answered previously. (per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/soc_rv_rules_091907.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly: If you play this card, you must name 1 type of resource. All&#xA;the other players &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; give you all of the Resource Cards of this type&#xA;that they have in their hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T20:14:23.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20791" CreationDate="2014-11-20T19:24:24.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Comprehensive Rules don't explicitly mention random targets. However, we can still use them to get an answer. The bottom line is that the creature with protection can't be chosen as the target, making the other creature automatically the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as you point out, &quot;target creature [you] control chosen at random&quot; could mean you must target a creature you control that is also a valid target, or it could that you target a creature you control without filtering on legal targets. Even if you try to pick from all creatures, the game itself will restrict you to legal targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CR 601.2 details the exact process for casting a spell. The key sentence is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, &quot;Handling Illegal Actions&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in comments, 601.2c specifies that the casting becomes illegal specifically when you try to target an invalid target, whether it's because of protection as in this case, or hexproof/shroud. At this point, it's as if the spell was never cast, so the spell can never wind up targeting the creature with protection. It can only wind up with a legal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruling for Goblin Test Pilot confirms this (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To choose a target at random, all possible &lt;strong&gt;legal&lt;/strong&gt; targets (including creatures and players) must have an equal chance of being chosen. There are many ways to do this, including assigning each possible legal target a number and rolling a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T15:04:10.527" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T15:04:10.527" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-11-20T19:38:32.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider the first game a learning game.  Not teaching/playing the farms merely postpones it.  I think the only way to really understand them is to use them and show.  I also spend a lot of time giving advice to new players (depending on how fast they seem to be picking it up).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part I've found is try trying teach them where they can play farmers because of the connected fields or if it is unlikely to ever touch even a single city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want everyone to feel they are doing well, then go ahead and skip them.  However  I would consider asking everyone about the house rule before going ahead with it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T19:38:32.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20788" CreationDate="2014-11-20T20:04:46.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boardgame Geek's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/2/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/em&gt; family page&lt;/a&gt;; which collects information on all of the &lt;em&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/em&gt; games. You can also search for &quot;Carcassonne&quot; and get a list of all the games and subscribe to the individual games of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just sign up, click &quot;Subscribe&quot; and you will stay up to date on all &lt;em&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/em&gt; news.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2014-11-20T20:04:46.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18944" CreationDate="2014-11-20T21:36:07.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play Carcassone with new players, I give them a two meeple advantage, usually by having the experienced players (which is often just me) play without two of my meeples.  This helps take away the big advantage experienced players have in knowing how farms work because they can't farm as aggressively (or else they will have no meeples left for cities/monasteries).  This handicap is big enough that a new player can often win with proper rules explanation, which is good in my book.  People tend want to play a game more if they feel they did well in their first game of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted to play without farms, I would suggest having everyone play with two fewer meeples, so that new players learn how to work around through a constrained of meeple situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These options can also be combined.  You could play without farms, giving new players 5 meeples and experienced players 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2019-01-07T14:11:22.617" LastActivityDate="2019-01-07T14:11:22.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20788" CreationDate="2014-11-21T10:51:46.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a member of Carcassonne Central. We have about a dozen forums for discussing various aspects of Carcassonne including breaking news, new expansions, general gameplay tips, tournaments and various other projects etc. It's well worth a look if you want to meet with other Carcassonne enthusiasts/ addicts around the world, and it's very friendly too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10024" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T10:51:46.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20799" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-21T15:16:54.527" Score="14" ViewCount="1718" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by Ivo Beckers' comment on the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/20772/is-your-commander-still-a-commander-if-it-gets-turned-face-down&quot;&gt;Is your commander still a &amp;quot;commander&amp;quot; if it gets turned face down?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAkroma%2c%20Angel%20of%20Fury%5d&quot;&gt;Akroma, Angel of Fury&lt;/a&gt; is your commander and is returned to your hand, followed by casting her as a morph creature for {3}, how is her commander status handled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, by CR 903.3, the face-down object still &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; your commander. However, that fact is hidden information. Normally, if a commander has been &lt;em&gt;turned&lt;/em&gt; face down, since everyone is permitted to know what the morphed creature &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt;, dealing commander damage with the nameless 2/2 isn't an issue. But if the commander was cast as a morph, that doesn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most relevant specific question to this situation, I suppose, is &quot;can you deal commander damage to your opponent without them knowing it?&quot; (ie, connect for combat damage with the morph creature without revealing that the creature is your commander)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T23:49:21.017" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T17:00:36.013" Title="Commander status as hidden information" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-21T15:31:54.733" Score="1" ViewCount="2301" Body="&lt;p&gt;My boyfriend plays a Goblin deck that absolutely destroys. But he has a combo that he does where he will attack with all of his creatures, and then sac one off after it has dealt damage to the player, and use Goblin Grenade. Can he do that? That just seems too op to me, because if he has multiple goblin grenades in one had he could sac all creatures that just dealt damage and that just doesn't make sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a specific rule that says he can't do that, would you mind linking it for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10025" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T15:01:35.763" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T15:01:35.763" Title="For Goblin Grenade can you sacrifice a creature that attacked?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20800" CreationDate="2014-11-21T15:39:15.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the attacking creature survives the attack, it can be sacrificed to a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Grenade&quot;&gt;Goblin Grenade&lt;/a&gt; that's cast after the combat is over. There's not so much a rule allowing this as there's no rule against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens during combat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;507 Beginning of Combat Step&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;507.3 Both players get to play instants and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;508 Declare Attackers Step&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;508.1 The active player declares his attackers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;508.3 Both players get to play instants and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;509 Declare Blockers Step&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;509.1 The defending declares his blockers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;509.2 The active player declares the damage assignment order of his attackers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;509.3 The defending player declares the damage assignment order of his blockers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;509.5 Both players get to play instants and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510 Combat Damage Step (First Strike and Double Strike)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510.1 Combat damage is assigned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510.2 Combat damage is dealt (simultaneously).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510.4 Both players get to play instants and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510 Second Combat Damage Step (non-First strike and Double Strike)&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510.1 Combat damage is assigned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510.2 Combat damage is dealt (simultaneously).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;510.4 Both players get to play instants and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;511 End of Combat Step&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;511.2 Both players get to play instants and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, you can cast instants and activate abilities at a number of points in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One can cast instants and activate abilities after an attacker has been declared, but before blockers have been declared. [CR 508.3]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he sacrifices the attacker here, he might as well have done it before attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One can cast instants and activate abilities after blockers have been declared but before damage is dealt. [CR 509.5]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he sacrifices the attacker here, he want deal any damage to the blocker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One can cast instants and activate abilities after damage has been dealt.  [CR 510.4]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacker and the blocker will already have dealt damage to each other by this point, so the attacker would have had to survive the blocker's damage to be around to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The one thing that's not possible to to have a creature deal combat damage and sacrifice it before it gets damaged (unless it has First Strike or Double Strike). This used to be possible, but that hasn't been the case since Magic 2010 was released mid-2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But at none of those times can Goblin Grenade be cast because it's a Sorcery, not an Instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only cast Sorcery spells in one of your Main Phases. But there is a Main Phase after the Combat Phase has completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;505.1. There are two main phases in a turn. In each turn, the first main phase (also known as the precombat main phase) and the second main phase (also known as the postcombat main phase) are separated by the combat phase (see rule 506, “Combat Phase”). The precombat and postcombat main phases are individually and collectively known as the main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first chance the attacker would have to cast Goblin Grenade sacrificing a creature that participated in combat is in the postcombat Main Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;505.5. Third, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities. The active player may play a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-21T21:38:30.707" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T21:38:30.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20799" CreationDate="2014-11-21T16:02:43.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could not find anything that specifically says that everybody knows that it is your commander. Being a commander is an attribute of the card itself, however nowhere in the rules is the word 'attribute' defined as it applies to a card, it isn't a characteristic or status as those are both defined in the CR. Morph creatures only lose characteristics they don't lose any other properties of the card. As such I would say that everyone should know when you cast the card that it is your commander. If you do decide that you don't need to tell people when you cast it you would have to tell them when combat damage is dealt as life totals are free information so you have to tell someone if they are dealt commander damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regardless, currently the only Legendary Creature with Morph is Akroma, which means you are mono-Red, and there are very few playable mono-Red morph creatures, so you should pretty much always assume it is her if they play a morph creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.3.&lt;/strong&gt; An object’s characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype,&#xA;  supertype, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects&#xA;  can have some or all of these characteristics. Any other information about an object isn’t a&#xA;  characteristic. For example, characteristics don’t include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell’s&#xA;  target, an object’s owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.6.&lt;/strong&gt; A permanent’s status is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two&#xA;  possible values: tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, face up/face down, and phased in/phased out.&#xA;  Each permanent always has one of these values for each of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;707.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Face-down spells and face-down permanents have no characteristics other than those listed by&#xA;  the ability or rules that allowed the spell or permanent to be face down. Any listed characteristics&#xA;  are the copiable values of that object’s characteristics. (See rule 613, “Interaction of Continuous&#xA;  Effects,” and rule 706, “Copying Objects.”) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T16:02:43.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20800" CreationDate="2014-11-21T16:09:37.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the Goblins in question survive combat and Goblin Grenade is cast during the Second Main Phase this is perfectly legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a common strategy for Goblin decks to deal as much damage as they can as fast as they can regardless of the cost to them. While this allows them to make some very powerful plays like sacrificing Goblins to Goblin Grenade, it also makes them very fragile. For example if you are able to counter the Grenade they still have sacrificed the Goblin as part of the cost for paying the spell, so they are down a lot of resources that are going to make it harder for them to win the game. So while in the right deck Goblin Grenade is very strong I would not call it OP or broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-21T16:09:37.977" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20799" CreationDate="2014-11-21T18:54:16.180" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it my commander?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To reiterate what is stated in the question, your commander is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; your commander, and nothing can change that. This is because of the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.3.&lt;/strong&gt; [...] This [commander] designation it is an attribute of the card itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a commander deal commander damage?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even if it's morphed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Commanderness cannot be hidden. It's an attribute of a &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt;, not a &lt;em&gt;card face&lt;/em&gt;. This is specifically covered by an example under rule 903.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A commander that’s been turned face down (due to Ixidron’s effect, for example) is still a commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even if it's morphed from my hand?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Being unable to &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; prove* commanderness is not a legitimate argument for ignoring the rules. To illustrate this very clearly, consider these two rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Correct rule 903.3&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The commander designation is an attribute of the card itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect rule 903.3&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The commander designation an attribute of the card itself &lt;em&gt;if and only if you can prove what card it is.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*&lt;sub&gt;Note that you will &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; be required to reveal your morph via comprehensive rule 707.9.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I required to immediately tell the truth if asked if a morph is my commander?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear. The EDH Rules Committee previously stated on their forum:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Face Down Commanders&lt;/em&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Since the card itself is designated as the commander, face down commanders still deal commander damage. Your opponents are also allowed to know which morph creature is your commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTGCommander.net is cited in the comprehensive rules as being a source of &amp;quot;additional resources&amp;quot;, so rulings made by the EDH Rules Committee are pseudo-authoritative. However, the forum has since been taken down, and with it the ruling. For lack of an authoritative source, it is unclear if &amp;quot;commanderness&amp;quot; is free information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2021-01-27T17:00:36.013" LastActivityDate="2021-01-27T17:00:36.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20805" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20819" CreationDate="2014-11-21T20:07:43.527" Score="0" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Xia is full of opportunities for hotshot stunt pilots: there are plenty of nebulas and asteroid belts to whiz about in, but it's a risky maneuver. You roll a d20, and if the result is from 1 to 10, you take that much damage (or, in a nebula, lose that much Energy). The rules call out that shields can protect you from these hazards, but it's unclear when you must place arming tokens on your shields in order to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you must place the arming tokens before entering the field, then there's a 50% chance that you wasted both energy and actions. This is a very steep cost, considering that the most common use of shields, defending against enemy fire, doesn't cost you an arming token and has a guaranteed benefit. (Or rather, you don't need to save an arming token from last turn, and you're allowed to re-arm immediately after the attack; it costs energy, but not actions.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do you need to activate shields &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; rolling for the result of entering hazardous spaces, or can you do it afterward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T19:13:40.947" Title="Must you decide to activate shields before entering a nebula or asteroid field?" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18717" CreationDate="2014-11-22T14:33:38.460" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know why you say the Rogue can never win.  How many times have you played Dungeon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be interested in the variants posted on Board Game Geek, such as Class powers, Chambers, and so on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1339/dungeon#files&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1339/dungeon#files&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10030" LastActivityDate="2014-11-22T14:33:38.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20812" CreationDate="2014-11-22T15:58:07.057" Score="3" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base set rules state &lt;code&gt;a player may have only one of any given development in their tableau&lt;/code&gt; yet the solo rules don't say anything about what happens when the robot attempts to play a development it already has in its tableau.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the robot play a development when it has previously placed the same development previously in its tableau?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example: Investment Credits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T06:18:29.850" Title="Can the robot play duplicate developments in solo-play?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-22T22:55:55.177" Score="3" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_realms_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Small World Realms&lt;/a&gt; scenario 'A Dig Too Far' with some friends the other night.  The map has 'veins of gold' that must all be dug from top to bottom, simultaneously.  Strategically placed chasms force players (or should) to work their way down the veins into 'monster races' that are working their way up the veins.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third player to pick got the first shot at spiderines and immediately grabbed them.  Spiderines (as we read &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/su_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;) are able to pop up out of any chasms no matter where they are on the board, so the thing that is supposed to inhibit movement along the veins actually helps him get there faster and more efficiently.  He got all three of the first layer on his first turn (good for 7 bonus coin) and then he abandoned the regions and let the monster races flood out.  On his next turn, he was able to easily take over 2 of the three 'B' layers, and immediately got two relics for his trouble (stinky socks and the welcome mat... a deadly combination.)  From then on (the second or third turn), he was basically unstoppable and beat the rest of us handily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I controlled the Balrog, but could never get close to him because he could always pick up and pop out of a different chasm.  He could also guarantee that the monsters (even when they were numerous) would never attack him by making sure he had more heavily defended squares when near monsters (they always choose to attack weaker spaces first.)  Basically, they seemed insanely overpowered for this specific map / scenario.  Has anyone else noticed this?  The instructions explicitly say to take flames, sorcerers, mummies, and skeletons out of the game, but it seems to me that spiderines are almost as overpowered as flames in this game type.  Was this just an oversight on the designers' part?  Does anyone have a good strategy against early spiderines on this map?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7776" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:04:29.787" Title="Should spiderines be allowed in 'A Dig Too Far?'" Tags="|small-world|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12055" CreationDate="2014-11-23T01:12:04.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't know how much of an improvement this is but I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.witchmastercreations.com/board-game-mod-afrikan-zombeja-or-in-almost-english-afrikan-zombies/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.witchmastercreations.com/board-game-mod-afrikan-zombeja-or-in-almost-english-afrikan-zombies/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10034" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T01:12:04.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4425" CreationDate="2014-11-23T06:05:54.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The green team wins because they reached the end, played the last connection. The blue team does not win in your scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though I still don't understand how many gold to distribute myself. I do know the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10035" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T11:59:37.713" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:59:37.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20808" CreationDate="2014-11-23T06:18:29.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes it can&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The robot treats the tableau as an abstracted stack, and ignores the abilities of cards it places. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/253-RFTG-the-Gathering-Storm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=293&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The robot's &lt;em&gt;tableau&lt;/em&gt; is a stack of cards, without any goods, where only the number of cards and their VPs matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters is the robot's economic development, which is independent of what the cards do. There are therefore no in-game consequences to placing a card twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The description of how the robot searches for developments provides no specific way to handle duplicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Develop &lt;em&gt;action&lt;/em&gt;: draw 1 card and then &lt;em&gt;flip to find&lt;/em&gt; a development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flip to find:&lt;/strong&gt; means to flip over cards one at a time from the robot's draw stack, discarding all non-matching cards, until either the desired type of card is found or the robot's draw stack is exhausted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &quot;non-matching&quot; here refers to the card type (e.g. discard non-development cards), not duplicates. Race for the Galaxy's rules are famous for both their terseness, and their exhaustive completeness. If it's not defined, it doesn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Although not definitive, the question has also been asked several times at BoardGameGeek, with the same consensus (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/354670/can-robot-play-duplicate-developments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/354670/can-robot-play-duplicate-developments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T06:18:29.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-23T06:23:32.927" Score="3" ViewCount="2057" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ran into this situation, and we were not sure how to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Adarkar%20Valkyrie&quot;&gt;Adarkar Valkyrie&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, and an awesome creature, say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sun%20Titan&quot;&gt;Sun Titan&lt;/a&gt;. Adarkar Valkyrie has this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap: When target creature other than Adarkar Valkyrie dies this turn, return that card to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necromantic%20Selection&quot;&gt;Necromantic Selection&lt;/a&gt;, which reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy all creatures, then return a creature card put into a graveyard this way to the battlefield under your control. It's a black Zombie in addition to its other colors and types. Exile Necromantic Selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A responds to Player B casting Necromantic Selection by activating Adakar Valkyrie's ability, targeting the Sun Titan. Is it possible for Player B to get the Sun Titan instead of Player A?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:48:37.750" Title="How does Necromantic Selection work with Adarkar Valkyrie?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20813" CreationDate="2014-11-23T06:41:49.327" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player B will have the Sun Titan. Adarkar Valkyrie creates a triggered ability on the creature targeted that will trigger when the creature dies. Necromantic Selection will destroy the creature and return it to the battlefield all during its resolution. Only after that does the triggered ability created by the Adarkar Valkyrie go onto the stack. By this time the Sun Titan is already on the battlefield and cannot be returned to the battlefield so the due to this section of rule 603.6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During resolution, these abilities look for the object in the zone that it moved to. If the object is unable to be found in the zone it went to, the part of the ability attempting to do something to the object will fail to do anything. The ability could be unable to find the object [...] because it left the zone before the ability resolved ... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T15:48:37.750" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:48:37.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-23T16:12:15.433" Score="5" ViewCount="4734" Body="&lt;p&gt;The In the Lab expansion requires you to move cubes into dishes in order to cure diseases and beat the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a disease have been cured, the &quot;automatic&quot; ability of the Medic is that all of the cured disease cubes are removed when he enters a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rule-set it is stated that the ability of the medic cannot move any cubes to the sample dishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpret this as once a disease is cured, the Medic can no longer move any cubes of that color to the dishes, because when he is done taking his move action, the city already has all the cubes removed, before the treat action could be taken.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct interpretation of the rules? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10037" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-05-04T13:49:59.720" LastActivityDate="2018-05-04T13:49:59.720" Title="How does the medic work in Pandemic - In the lab once a disease is cured?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-in-the-lab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20817" CreationDate="2014-11-23T17:47:45.227" Score="3" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376513&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spinal Embrace&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast Spinal Embrace only during combat. Untap target creature you&#xA;  don't control and gain control of it. It gains haste until end of&#xA;  turn. At the beginning of the next end step, sacrifice it. If you do,&#xA;  you gain life equal to its toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378524&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phenax, God of Deception&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As long as your devotion to blue and black is less than seven, Phenax&#xA;  isn't a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have Phenax in play, and my opponent plays Spinal Embrace targeting it, and then gains control of it, but does not have enough devotion to make Phenax a creature, what happens? Do they gain control of Phenax permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6924" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T11:56:08.760" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:56:08.760" Title="What happens after using Spinal Embrace on a Theros God?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20816" CreationDate="2014-11-23T18:12:59.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent will gain control of Phenax, then at the end of your turn they will sacrifice it and gain zero life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Spinal Embrace resolves, it creates two continuous effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You control that Phenax.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Phenax gains haste until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a delayed triggered ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the next end step, sacrifice Phenax. If you do, you gain life equal to its toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, right after Spinal Embrace resolves, your opponent controls Phenax and it has haste. Then, at the beginning of the next end step, the delayed triggered ability triggers and they sacrifice Phenax. Then they gain life equal to its toughness. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Creature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 302.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Power and toughness are characteristics only creatures have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Numbers_and_symbols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 107.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If anything needs to use a number that can't be determined, either as a result or in a calculation, it uses 0 instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you sacrifice Phenax, it is not a creature, so it doesn't have a toughness. So, they gain zero life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-11-23T18:39:51.043" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T18:39:51.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20805" CreationDate="2014-11-23T19:13:40.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You roll the shields &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you roll the damage from a nebula or asteroid field&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Rule book, page 7, Shields&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.faroffgames.com/images/games/xia-legends-of-a-drift-system/Xia_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.faroffgames.com/images/games/xia-legends-of-a-drift-system/Xia_Rulebook.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-11-23T19:13:40.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20781" CreationDate="2014-11-23T19:46:35.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a tough one. But it appears to indicate that under certain circumstances, the U.S. and Britain together could have won, even if Russia is falling. Your game illustrates how.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Secure North Africa, and with it, the road to the Middle East and India.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Using India as a base, reclaim China, Indochina, and some of the Pacific Islands from Japan. This is something you accomplished in the game that the Allies failed to achieve in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing a rough count: the U.S. starts with 36 IPCS, and Britain with 30. You've added 3 or so in Africa, and perhaps 11 in &quot;greater China&quot; for a total of about 80. The Axis have 29 for the original Germany minus North Africa, will soon get 24 for Russia, and have about 14 left for Japan, a total of 67. That's more than the 57 they started with, so they've &quot;come up.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One advantage for you is that you've &quot;sluffed&quot; your weakest player and country (Russia), and &quot;consolidated.&quot; Also, Japan is &quot;half gone.&quot; The end game is an alliance between America, Britain, (Japan and China), the latter two controlled by the former two, versus Germany and Russia (the latter under German occupation). That will win most games of Allies and Axis. Probably the &quot;real life&quot; version as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea: Ship at least American infantry and tanks across the Pacific, where the Japanese navy is in its death throes, to China, rather than across the Atlantic (where there are eight German submarines. Have them conquer the remaining Japanese Pacific islands along the way to reduce Japan's income, before heading for China, and ultimately Siberian Russia (you want to reduce the Axis to 29 for Germany, 24 for Russia and 8 for Japan, or 61). Use British land forces for harassing the Germans in France, Norway, and the Middle East/Southern Russia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T18:10:20.280" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T18:10:20.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20822" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T00:09:00.993" Score="2" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love playing Axis and Allies but think I have been playing it wrong. I place my troops on all of my properties. Is that wrong? Where are they supposed to start when I buy them? At the industrial complex, or anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10040" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T12:03:09.733" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:14:42.747" Title="In Axis and Allies, do infantry units start at the industrial complex or anywhere I want?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20826" CreationDate="2014-11-24T01:31:46.820" Score="6" ViewCount="21949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can one sacrifice any permanent at any time for any reason, or is &quot;permission&quot; to sacrifice only granted by other cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T03:54:42.573" LastActivityDate="2019-09-15T11:04:10.810" Title="Can I always sacrifice a permanent whenever I want, without anything telling me to do so?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20824" CreationDate="2014-11-24T01:35:22.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only sacrifice a permanent when instructed to do so by some ability. Even if you had another ability such as &quot;when a creature is sacrificed...&quot;, you would need something else to let you sacrifice a creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T01:35:22.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20824" CreationDate="2014-11-24T03:55:05.787" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't spontaneously sacrifice a permanent. Even if you have a permanent with an ability of the form &quot;whenever a creature dies&quot; or &quot;whenever a creature is sacrificed&quot;, you need to find some means of sacrificing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no rule forbidding it; there's simply no rule allowing it. CR 116 itemizes what actions you can perform. When you have priority&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;, you can do the following&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;116.1a Cast a spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;116.1b Activate an activated ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;116.1c Perform certain Special Actions.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2a Play a land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2b Turn a face-down creature face up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2c Take an action an effect previously permitted you to take at a later time (usually to end a continuous effect or to stop a delayed triggered ability from triggering).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2d Take an action a static ability allows you to take to ignore the effect of that static ability for a duration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2e Exile a card with Suspend.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2f Role the Planar Die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;115.2g Turn a face-down conspiracy card face up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;116.1d Activate a mana ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, sacrificing a Permanent is not an option (unless it's part of one of the above actions (e.g. The cost to activate an ability)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are other actions you can take (e.g. Drawing a card in your Draw Step), but they aren't actions you chose to do, so I won't bother listing them. They are itemized by CR 116.2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conditions may apply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T04:10:46.003" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:10:46.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12881" CreationDate="2014-11-24T04:21:26.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play the rule as your turn of one play then you can follow the rule as long as it says that it is a free action then you can complete the new rule and then you have ended your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10043" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:21:26.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20828" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T04:42:03.163" Score="0" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you tap &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378497&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Karametra's Favor&lt;/a&gt;, does that mana gotten from this card disappear on your next turn, or does it work in the same way than a normal Basic Land card?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you attack or block with a creature, which has the Karametra's Favor, can you use it's ability at the same time when attacking or blocking with the Creature?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can you decide not to gain more mana with Karametra's Favor, when you choose to attack or block with a creature it's attached to (do you need to tap the ability, since the card is attached to a Creature you tap by wishing to attack or block with)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:50:10.387" Title="Various questions about Karametra's Favor" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20828" CreationDate="2014-11-24T04:50:10.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Karamertra's Favor doesn't tap, it gives an ability to the creature it is enchanting allowing it to tap for mana. This mana works just like any other kind of mana and empties from your mana pool at the end of the step or phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You can use the ability anytime you are able to tap the creature, so you can do it with blocking creatures and attacking creatures with vigilance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If the enchanted creature is tapped to attack you are not able to use the ability granted by Karametra's Favor. You do not need to tap in order to block so you can still tap the creature for the granted ability after it has been declared as a blocker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T04:50:10.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20830" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T04:50:48.430" Score="1" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373731&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Loathsome Catoblepas&lt;/a&gt; doesn't tell on it's card about consequences, so I felt it's important to make sure, what happens if you cannot block this creature in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T05:01:24.720" Title="Are there any consequences, if you cannot block Loathsome Catoblepas?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20830" CreationDate="2014-11-24T05:01:24.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loathsome Catoblepas creates a requirement for blocking. This means that if the defending player has at least one creature that is able to block the Catoblepas it must be blocked by at least one of those creatures (if the defending player wants to block with more they can as long as one is). If there are legal blockers and none are declared as blockers it is an illegal block and the game will rewind so that a legal block can be declared. If there are no creatures able to block the Catoblepas the ability does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the defending player declares blockers. This turn-based action doesn't use the stack. To declare blockers, the defending player follows the steps below, in order. If at any point during the declaration of blockers, the defending player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 717, &amp;quot;Handling Illegal Actions&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1c&lt;/strong&gt; The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it's affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must block, or that it must block if some condition is met). If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of blockers is illegal. If a creature can't block unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost, even if blocking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T05:01:24.720" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T05:03:06.127" Score="0" ViewCount="517" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I assume that you can decide to place &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Weight%20of%20the%20Underworld&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Weight of the Underworld&lt;/a&gt; on either a Creature you control, or on a Creature the opponent controls.&#xA;Am I assuming it right?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I cast this Enchantment on a Creature, which has only 1 or 2 Toughness, will the Creature die instantly after that Enchantment is in play?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T05:08:58.337" Title="Couple questions related to Weight of the Underworld" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20832" CreationDate="2014-11-24T05:08:58.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) You are correct, the restriction on what it can enchant is Enchant creature, so it can enchant any creature. If it was restricted to just yours for example it would say &quot;Enchant creature you control&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Yes. The enchantment will resolve and the next time state based actions are checked the game will see the creature has 0 or less toughness and die. Note this is not the same thing as being destroyed so things like indestructible and regenerate won't save the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T05:08:58.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20834" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T06:00:18.433" Score="2" ViewCount="14746" Body="&lt;p&gt;Or can you place that Enchantment Creature as a Creature on the battlefield after the Creature it was attached to dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:44:31.030" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:44:31.030" Title="When a Creature dies, does the Enchantment Creature attached to that Creature go in the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20834" CreationDate="2014-11-24T06:30:44.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the situation. Normally, when a creature dies (goes to the graveyard) or gets exiled, all attached enchantments are moved to the graveyard as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, &#xA;  that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you have a bestow enchantment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.102e If an Aura with bestow is attached to an illegal object or player, it becomes unattached. This is an exception to rule 704.5n.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, that has also has its exceptions, for example when a player casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ktk/en/8.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;End Hostilities&lt;/a&gt;, then all creatures, and its attached permanents are destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T06:30:44.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5850" CreationDate="2014-11-24T08:06:27.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of your ideas work, sadly enough; look closely at the wording, &lt;strong&gt;Ranger's Guile&lt;/strong&gt; can only ever target creatures &lt;em&gt;you control&lt;/em&gt;, and as such is never affected by the lightning-rod effect, and &lt;strong&gt;Vines of Vastwood&lt;/strong&gt; only blocks off spells and abilities &lt;em&gt;your opponents control&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are solutions, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simplest I can think of is a good and healthy batch of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gut%20Shot&quot;&gt;Gut Shot&lt;/a&gt;s and/or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hornet%20Sting&quot;&gt;Hornet Sting&lt;/a&gt;s in your sideboard. The coolest and most playable though  would probably be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Apostle%27s%20Blessing&quot;&gt;Apostle&amp;#39;s Blessing&lt;/a&gt; - a spell that can be used to make your creatures dodge blockers, but just as well can be dropped on the Flagbearer to give it protection from green, making him an illegal target for all of your other spells. And If your infecting attacker is an artifact, there is virtually no downside in doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10044" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T11:57:25.670" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T11:57:25.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20837" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20867" CreationDate="2014-11-24T11:24:28.880" Score="4" ViewCount="781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to buy the party game Werewolf, either &quot;The Werewolves of Millers Hollow&quot; or &quot;Ultimate Werewolf&quot; , but there seems to be different versions and expansions, and the dependencies are unclear for me. Which expansions needs the original game or not, or obsoletes other parts of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Werewolves of Millers Hollow&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original Game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Moon - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Characters - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Village - &lt;em&gt;Standalone? Does it make the other games obsolete?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special edition - &lt;em&gt;Standalone? Can it be used in combination with any of the &#xA;expansions?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;I know there is a big box version that contains many/all expansions. Is this the same as &quot;The Village&quot; or does it contain that and more?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Werewolf&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Original Game &lt;em&gt;(?)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Classic Movie Monsters - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Night Terrors - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifacts - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Urban Legends - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wolfpack - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deluxe edition - &lt;em&gt;This is the original game with an expansion? Does it overlap with the other expansions?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10046" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T16:57:11.583" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T19:13:30.063" Title="What are the dependencies of the Werewolf games expansions?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-24T12:07:35.173" Score="6" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a small x-wing collection, which consists of 2 base sets, 1 of everything in waves 1, 2 and 3, 1 of each &quot;aces&quot; set and a couple of other small ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a storage solution which will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; these ships in one or more boxes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store them safely in transit, so that the paint doesn't chip/scratch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Store the base, 4 base templates and manoeuvre dial in the &lt;strong&gt;same compartment as&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;directly next to&lt;/strong&gt; the model&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can be purchased at a &lt;strong&gt;reasonable price&lt;/strong&gt; in the &lt;strong&gt;UK&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the popular solutions I see violate one or more of these principles, particularly number 3 - which is vitally important to me because I'm sick of digging through boxes looking for the relevant cardboard when setting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything that would suit my needs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2020-04-22T17:50:31.153" Title="What's the most effective storage solution for x-wing to keep bases, dials and templates next to ships?" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18717" CreationDate="2014-11-24T13:56:48.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree that the Rogue is the weakest class, although I don't have hard data to back that up. The reasoning is simple: she needs the same treasure count as the cleric, but is weaker in combat. Their special power to pass secret doors is a very poor compensation, not least because it's unreliable, and is easily copied with a secret door card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest adjustment is to change the amount of treasure required to win, but I have little idea what an appropriate target would be. Instead, you might consider adjusting the Rogue's special power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have Rogues find secret doors all the time, without a dice roll.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If they pick up a secret door card, treat it as a +1 magic sword (which compensates for their combat weakness).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I find it more fun just not to use the Rogue. Four is a sensible number for a good game of Dungeon, and two clerics and two warriors offers good balance, simple rules (no special powers) and plenty of competition without too many players hunting in the same levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3323" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T13:56:48.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20842" CreationDate="2014-11-24T14:17:52.163" Score="4" ViewCount="7209" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attack with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leaping%20Master&quot;&gt;Leaping Master&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent blocks it with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alpine%20Grizzly&quot;&gt;Alpine Grizzly&lt;/a&gt; and I then activate the Leaping Master's Flying ability (i.e. at the end of the 'Declare Blockers' step), the Alpine Grizzly can, presumably, no longer block the (now flying) Leaping Master.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, would Leaping Master deal damage to my opponent in this case or does rule &lt;strong&gt;509.1h&lt;/strong&gt; prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1h&lt;/strong&gt; An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that Leaping Master's damage &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; assigned to the player as the Alpine Grizzly is not &amp;quot;removed from combat&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10048" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T22:32:57.937" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T22:32:57.937" Title="Damage to player when activating Flying ability after 'Declare Blockers' step" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2022-05-25T19:35:56.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20757" CreationDate="2014-11-24T14:21:18.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole situation described only seems to work when partner has 3 cards and will lead through on the 2nd round. The honour lead also works of course when declarer has Qx and you can run 5 tricks on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think most of the time, if East has a side-suit ace, declarer probably won't have 9 tricks to run anyway, so attitude will probably be better most of the time, as partner can now encourage with Qxx but how do you then distinguish between that and 4 small ones when you want partner to lead the other honour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So maybe you're better off playing a pure count signal in which case if partner has 2 you just bash out the other honour and a 3rd one and hope for the best. If partner shows 3 we guess he won't have the queen most of the time but might have the jack so switch and hope for the best again. Odds favour declarer having the queen, I guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T14:21:18.340" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20840" CreationDate="2014-11-24T14:24:08.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flying only creates a restriction on blocking when blockers are declared, once the blocker is declared giving the attacker flying will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Rulings on Leaping Master&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9/20/2014  Activating Leaping Master’s ability after it’s been blocked won’t change or undo the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T14:24:08.283" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-23T09:32:36.147" Score="1" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the etymology of the phrase &quot;dead rubber&quot;. Googling attributes it to some obscure bridge reference, but I don't seem to understand it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10058" OwnerDisplayName="Yaitzme" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T15:05:17.387" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:53:02.563" Title="&quot;Dead Rubber&quot; definitive etymology" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20843" CreationDate="2014-11-24T03:03:45.230" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/rubber#Etymology_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber&lt;/a&gt; is a series that consists of an odd number of matches where a majority of wins takes the series.  For example, in baseball, the World Series is an example of a rubber; the team that wins 4 games out of 7 wins the series.  Rubber bridge is a form of contract bridge where the teams play best out of three games.  (Wiktionary lists this the etymology of this definition of rubber as &quot;unknown.&quot;  If you want more information, &lt;a href=&quot;https://english.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;English Language &amp;amp; Usage&lt;/a&gt; would be a good place to ask.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/rubber_match&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rubber match&lt;/a&gt; is a match that decides a series after a tie.  For example, in this year's World Series, after 6 games the San Francisco Giants and the Kansas City Royals were tied 3-3.  The last game on October 29 was the rubber match, and the winner, San Francisco, won the series.  In rubber bridge, the rubber match is the third game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/dead_rubber&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dead rubber&lt;/a&gt; is a match in a series that has already been decided, but the match is still played.  In the World Series, this doesn't happen; once a team has four wins, no more games are played.  However, this term is used in other sports, such as some tennis tournaments, cricket, or the FIFA World Cup.  For example, in the group stage of the FIFA World Cup, you might have a match at the end of the group stage where it is already known which teams will advance to the knockout stage before the match begins.  This is a dead rubber match, and no matter who wins, the result of the tournament doesn't change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In rubber bridge, the rubber is over when one team has won two games, so I don't think that &quot;dead rubber&quot; is a bridge term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10049" OwnerDisplayName="Ben Miller" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:09.400" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T13:53:02.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20822" CreationDate="2014-11-24T14:31:27.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  New units can only be placed at industrial complexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, page 21, &quot;Action Sequence 5 - Place New Units On Gameboard&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Place newly purchased land units and air units in territories where you have owned&#xA;industrial complexes since the beginning of your turn-not in just-captured territories&#xA;with industrial complexes.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Any units that cannot be placed in industrial complexes are lost and put back in the tray.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T14:31:27.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20822" CreationDate="2014-11-24T15:14:42.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the &lt;strong&gt;beginning&lt;/strong&gt; of the game, units are started at designated spots dictated by the map, and by the rules (reflecting historical deployments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the game proceeds, land and air units start at one of your industrial complexes, while sea units start at one of the sea zones &lt;strong&gt;adjacent&lt;/strong&gt; to one of your industrial complexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By &lt;strong&gt;definition,&lt;/strong&gt; the industrial complexes are where your unite are organized and armed. That's why they start there (or in a neighboring sea zone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:14:42.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20838" CreationDate="2014-11-24T15:20:34.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I use is a large organizer box.  Something like this&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uRakw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick being having one where the size of the spaces can be adjusted, and one deep enough to fit the ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I cut up the original packaging of the ships.  They are already perfectly molded to the shape of the ship.  Cutting them out in exact size of the square that I am going to use I insert the packaging into he box, and then the ship into the packaging&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I keep the cardboard for the ships in logical squares below the model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:20:34.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20650" CreationDate="2014-11-24T15:36:42.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e4 has an advantage over 1. e3 in that it does not potentially block the bishop on c1 (one the d-pawn is moved) and also that it attacks f5, thus preventing black developing his bishop there (or the knight via e7), and attacks d5 preventing black putting a knight there (after developing it on f6 or e7). It also hampers black moving a pawn to d5 although it doesn't prevent it. (Black is unlikely to want to move the pawn from f7 to f5 at this point).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 d4 has similar advantages over 1. d3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black however will often counter with a more &quot;defensive&quot; move that involves moving a pawn just one square. This will often &quot;support&quot; another pawn advance. The plan will often be to &quot;fianchetto&quot; the blocked bishop, or simply develop it to d7 or e7 in a more defensive role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although White, with the extra tempo, could start with such a move and adopt a defensive strategy, it is more frequent for White to want to use the extra move advantage to adopt a more &quot;attacking&quot; strategy. (&quot;You're supposed to be at home&quot;.. as we might say in another sport.. however the principle kind-of applies in chess. White more attacking, Black more defensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been known to start a game 1. c3. Caro-Kann or Slav with a tempo. At least my opponent is less likely to be prepared for it than they are against 1. d4 or 1. e4. &#xA;(The only 2 serious tournament games I've played in the last 27 years, I was Black both games so it didn't come up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T15:36:42.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20863" CreationDate="2014-11-24T15:56:32.357" Score="1" ViewCount="99" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing with the Bridges, Castles and Bazaars and Die Belargerer (a rerelease of The Siege with 6 tiles).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have one in a city, it causes the city to score 1 point per tile and 1 per pennant if it is completed. Now Castles Score what ever the next finished feature in it's 6 tile influence scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of game a besieged city is worth 2 cities to a farmer and a castle is worth a +1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So 3 of the 6 new tiles can be used to create the 'clam' cities you can use for castles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way we played is that by making it a castle, it is a castle and ignore the Siege tile from then on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct way to interpret the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T05:41:21.093" Title="Bridges, Castles and Bazaars with Die Belargerer (the Siege)" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20852" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20853" CreationDate="2014-11-24T16:43:06.250" Score="4" ViewCount="10583" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen pictures of the source sheets. They pack many different cards per plate, not one card repeated a hundread times in the same plate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose that a set contains 300 cards and there are 3 plates with 100 cards each. If there are 100 rares, 100 uncommons, and 100 commons, I'd imagine that there is one plate with rares only, one with uncommons only, the third with commons only. Is this how they distribute the cards' rarities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10051" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2014-11-24T17:54:43.063" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T15:01:04.670" Title="How are M:TG cards printed in regards to the rarity of each card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20852" CreationDate="2014-11-24T17:48:08.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out this article on how magic cards are made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/building-tariel-2011-06-06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, we can identify several things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Magic cards are printed by a company called Carta Mundi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It appears Magic cards are printed in sheets.  The oversized cards (from the commander sets) appear to be printed on 7x7 sheets and regular sized cards are printed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120051733/http://archive.wizards.com/mtg/images/daily/mm/mm45_betaAll.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;11x11 sheets&lt;/a&gt; (though the Commander set may have been 10x10 so it was one sheet per deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Not just are magic cards printed in a quantity distribution of 1:7:24:88 (mythic:rare:uncommon:common) for rarity, but they are also printed in different quantities by language (English being the most common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, we can deduce that each printing sheet has only cards of one rarity and language (with extras like tokens and informational cards to fill in the extras) and that they print different quantities of each sheet according to the amount of each they want to exist.  So, they print 88 times more of the &amp;quot;English common sheets&amp;quot; for a set than they do of the &amp;quot;English mythic sheets&amp;quot; (though there are probably multiple sheets of commons and only one sheet of mythic rares).  They likely also have separate sheets for foil cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, this is all speculation based on what we can observe.  You would have to find a better article or contact one of the companies involved to get a more accurate answer (though they are probably protective of some of the secrets in their production process).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a historic perspective, magic used to do finer granularity of rarity by having cards repeated on a sheet.  So, in Antiquities, they printed 3x as many &amp;quot;common sheets&amp;quot; as they did &amp;quot;uncommon sheets&amp;quot;, but there were cards that showed up twice on the uncommon sheets (dubbed &amp;quot;U2&amp;quot; in rarity) which would be twice as available as the &amp;quot;U1&amp;quot; cards (cards that appeared once on the uncommon sheet) but still rarer than cards that &amp;quot;C1&amp;quot; cards (cards that showed up once on the common sheet).  See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiquities_%28Magic:_The_Gathering%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiquities_%28Magic:_The_Gathering%29&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crystalkeep.com/magic/misc/rarity-info.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.crystalkeep.com/magic/misc/rarity-info.php&lt;/a&gt; for more on the history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every large set from Mirage through Onslaught as well as the core sets in between had &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;110 cards of each rarity&lt;/a&gt; indicating that the example in your question may not be that far off.  During this period of time, Magic probably was printed as a 10x11 sheet of each rarity with just different numbers of each sheet printed to create different rarity.  It looks like they switched back to 11x11 sheets between 9th and 10th editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also possibly relevant: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4945/are-cards-of-the-same-rarity-level-really-equally-rare-in-mtg&quot;&gt;Are cards of the same &amp;quot;rarity level&amp;quot; really equally rare in MTG?&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/php/news/print.php?Article=11040&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.starcitygames.com/php/news/print.php?Article=11040&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-18T15:00:56.253" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T15:00:56.253" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20420" CreationDate="2014-11-24T18:30:03.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Civilization can certainly be made a 2x2 team game.  The rules you wrote will work.  One slight addition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules and culture cards referring to &quot;an opponent&quot; (such as A Gift From Afar or Disoriented) refer only to players on the other team.  If it refers to &quot;another player&quot;, it can be used on a player on the opposing team or your ally (such as Exchange of Ideas).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some things that would make it more strategic or interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A players gains the benefit of his/her allies technology (if your ally has a technology and you don't, you play as if you had that technology, so can buy buildings/units on it, use it's abilities, and gather coins as if you had it).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not you allow trade between non allied players is up to you; I think it is more interesting to leave that as allowed and just rely on the competition between the teams to discourage it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether allies start on adjacent corners or opposite corners is also of interest, though I think adjacent corners will be a better game play experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing it as a team game might change the balance of some of the win conditions.  Military victory probably gains some strength over the economic victory, as military cooperation is easier.  That said, having an ally that can just feed resources or culture points to the other could actually make the cultural victory distinctly easier.  And technology sharing probably makes the economic victory easier.  That there isn't anything obviously unbalanced about this means that it is an interesting variant and would require play to determine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original question could have been read as to whether or not Civilization the Board Game could have been played as a full co-op board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the fundamental tenants of a fully cooperative board game (like Pandemic) is that there is a way for all players to lose.  Civilization the Board Game has no built-in mechanic for all players to lose, so would not work as a full co-op game without serious modification.  If you are looking for something that feels vaguely similar but with more aspects of full co-op games, try Archipelago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2017-05-22T05:02:01.857" LastActivityDate="2017-05-22T05:02:01.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18544" CreationDate="2014-11-24T19:02:28.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This article has an extensive discussion of the solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.bham.ac.uk/~mdr/teaching/modules04/java2/TilesSolvability.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.cs.bham.ac.uk/~mdr/teaching/modules04/java2/TilesSolvability.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The summary for the 3x3 board is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lay out the board as a 9x1 row (row 1, then row 2, then row 3).  Count the number of inversions (instances of a higher number coming before a lower number on this row).  The board is solvable if and only if the number of inversions is even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8   1   3&#xA;2       5&#xA;7   6   4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Written as a row is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;8, 1, 3, 2, , 5, 7, 6, 4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8 gives 7 inversions, the 1 gives none, the 3 gives 1 inversion, the 2 gives none, the 5 gives 1, the 7 gives 2, and the 6 gives 1.  This example has a total of 12 inversions, which is even, so it is solvable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T00:21:56.350" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T00:21:56.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14351" CreationDate="2014-11-24T19:12:51.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At a high level the strategy is the same.  Obviously the difference in connection costs between cities and the different resource refresh rates will create strategic differences, but this is fairly complex and nuanced and so beyond the scope of an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the rules differences, the changes to what you want to do are more tactical (what you do this move) than strategic (how you plan the game).  The more strategic changes are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Korea, you don't want to combine coal and nuclear as the North has no nukes (ironic) but has the cheaper coal.  Garbage plants are also more competitive on Korea, so take that into account when planning your power plant build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For China, since the power plants come out in order, there aren't going to be windfall opportunities (a plant that powers 5 cities won't be available until you get to that part of the deck).  Here, you pretty much want to upgrade your plants only when you need to get more capacity rather than opportunistically (when there is a plant that looks good), as there is always going to be a better plant coming up next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T19:12:51.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12224" CreationDate="2014-11-24T20:47:16.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mulliganing for the corp is more important than for the runner because for the corp, card are a liability as much as a boon.  The runner can spend clicks drawing cards without penalty beyond time, whereas for the corp to do the same would be to risk an agenda flood without time or money to set up appropriate defenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer will of course be deck/strategy specific, but here are some simple heuristics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the corp, mulligan if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have more agendas than ICE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't afford most of the cards in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have no traps/combo pieces in a deck that's designed to win by traps/combo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the runner, mulligan if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't afford most of the cards in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have only support cards and none of the cards they are designed to support (ex. all cards like Personal Touch and Modded, and no programs to go with them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have no combo pieces if your deck is designed to win by combo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2014-11-24T20:47:16.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20852" CreationDate="2014-11-24T22:04:47.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that Wizards tends to be fairly secretive about the specifics of how their print runs work, and exactly what a print sheet looks like. We occasionally get articles like the one that Zags linked to showing an entire print sheet, but most of the information we 'know' about the print runs has to be inferred from answers Wizards employees give or mathematical analysis of print runs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently for a regular large expansion a set has 269 cards broken down as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;101 Commons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;80 Uncommons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;53 Rares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15 Mythic Rares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;20 Basic Lands (5 Different Lands with 4 arts each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sheet of cards is 11x11 (121 cards total) as far as we have been able to tell so far the sheets are split up as follows &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/the-rumor-mill/new-card-discussion/234360-anybody-else#c6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Source)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 of each Rare + 1 of each Mythic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 each of 60 Commons + 1 extra Common&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 each of 40 Commons + 1 extra Common (the same Common as on the previous sheet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 each of 40 Uncommons + 1 Blank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 each of 40 Uncommons + 1 Blank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 of each Basic Land + 1 Blank&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 2 Common sheets they are printed in a 3:2 ratio so that every common has the same rarity. The one exception is the 1 extra Common which has a rarity of 5:6, so it is very slightly rarer that the other hundred commons. &lt;a href=&quot;https://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/39852551101/youve-said-that-the-101st-common-card-in-each-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This 101st Common is generally an artifact or land depending on the set.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These sheets are then printed so that the rarities are preserved both within and between each rarity, so each of the Uncommon sheets will be printed the same number of times so each Uncommon has the same likelihood of getting opened in a pack, and each of those sheets will be printed 3 times for every Rare/Mythic sheet that is printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ends up with a booster pack that has 1 Basic Land, 1 Rare or Mythic Rare (7/8 chance of Rare, 1/8 chance of Mythic Rare), 3 Uncommons, and 10 Commons (one of the Commons has a chance of being Foil, about 1/6 &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Foil_card#Rarity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;(Source)&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all this information is about current large expansions. Small expansions have ratios that work out similarly. Special releases like the Commander decks, and other preconstructed decks have their own print runs (as Zags shows in their answer) and these cards are in addition to any cards in a normal print run, so for example any Rares in the Magic 2015 Intro Packs are more common than normal Rares that aren't in Intro Packs. Also as Zags also noted older sets had different print sheets where one card might appear on it 4 times, another card 5 times, and a third card 11 times (these numbers are based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/planeswalker-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arabian Nights&lt;/a&gt;) Wizards has not done sheets for normal expansions like this for a while though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-18T15:01:04.670" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T15:01:04.670" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20864" CreationDate="2014-11-24T23:58:49.010" Score="6" ViewCount="26004" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you draw an event card which says to add new people to your colony, does that go into effect right away or can you decide when to play it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T02:00:14.547" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T02:00:14.547" Title="Do I have to play a Dead of Winter event card as soon as I draw it, or can I choose to play it later?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20862" CreationDate="2014-11-25T02:15:15.140" Score="18" ViewCount="26388" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a turn structure diagram for Magic the Gathering to use for teaching new players.  There is a lot of information to keep track of in the turn: there is everything from the fact that the Upkeep Step comes before the Draw Step to when you can play abilities between the game actions of the Combat Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For new players in particular, a graphical representation is particularly useful since I want them to gain an intuitive grasp of how the turn progresses as well as be able to reference particular details that become relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen charts that list the steps and phases in order but I need something more than that for teaching and reference.  Where can I find a chart that includes the order of steps/phases, when you can use various types of cards and abilities, and what game actions happen when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-05-09T02:24:20.193" LastActivityDate="2019-10-26T11:19:11.537" Title="Where can I find a chart or diagram explaining Magic's turn structure?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|teaching|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20861" CreationDate="2014-11-25T02:15:15.140" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is one I made:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twentysevenletterdomainname.com/magic_turn_structure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftf0A.png&quot; alt=&quot;turn diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(click for full size - hosted on &lt;a href=&quot;http://27ld.com/magic_turn_structure&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;27ld.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T18:02:37.097" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:02:37.097" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20849" CreationDate="2014-11-25T05:41:21.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using castles, if a 'clam city' is completed you then make the decision to either score it as a city or turn it into a castle. If it becomes a castle, then no scoring relating to &lt;em&gt;cities&lt;/em&gt; applies to it (and scoring for the castle does not occur until and unless a neighboring feature is completed). Since the scoring of siege tiles only applies to cities, it does not affect the scoring of a castle. A castle is worth 4 points to a farmer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link to official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Carcassonne_Exp8.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Carcassonne_Exp8.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T05:41:21.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20860" CreationDate="2014-11-25T09:26:16.933" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You decide when (or if) to play any card from the item deck, including Event cards that add survivors. Players may play item cards (including event cards) on their turn, but they are not required to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one difference with Event cards is that they are not added to the waste pile but are instead removed from game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the rulebook doesn't do a good job explaining Event cards, but this topic has come up repeatedly on the BGG rules forum. One such link posted below where one of the co-designers Jonathan Gilmour comments on a thread specific to this rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/17160807#17160807&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/17160807#17160807&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastEditorUserId="8425" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T09:58:23.700" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T09:58:23.700" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20865" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T11:24:52.120" Score="2" ViewCount="80" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the End of Times hardback books have sold out very quickly (I believe the latest one was out of stock within seven minutes!) however there are iPad versions available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the iPad versions contain just the story or do they contain the rules and scenarios as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="6161" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T15:39:41.783" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T17:01:42.727" Title="What do the iPad &quot;End of Times&quot; books contain?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20865" CreationDate="2014-11-25T14:24:07.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Games Workshop have replied to my email:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for the email.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I can confirm for you that the iBook contains everything that the&#xA;  physical copy contains except the paper!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I hope that this helps, but if you need anything further, please let&#xA;  me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kind regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lydia&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like iBook has a complete ruleset too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T14:24:07.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20837" CreationDate="2014-11-25T16:30:20.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found almost all the answers on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek.com&lt;/a&gt;. That page is very handy for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Werewolves of Millers Hollow&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Werewolves of Millers Hollow - &lt;em&gt;Original Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Village - &lt;em&gt;Expansion which also contains Original Game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Moon - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or The Village)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Characters - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or The Village)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special edition - &lt;em&gt;It is standalone. Found no more info.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Werewolves of Miller's Hollow: The Pact - &lt;em&gt;Contains: Original Game + The Village + New Moon + Characters (so full game with all expansions)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Werewolf&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Ultimate Werewolf&quot; / &quot;Werewolf&quot; - &lt;em&gt;Original Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Werewolf: Whitebox edition - &lt;em&gt;Reimplements Original Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Werewolf: Ultimate edition - &lt;em&gt;Reimplements Whitebox Edition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Werewolf: Deluxe edition - &lt;em&gt;Reimplements Ultimate Edition&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Classic Movie Monsters - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or one of the reimplementations)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Night Terrors - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or one of the reimplementations)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifacts - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or one of the reimplementations)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Urban Legends - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or one of the reimplementations)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wolfpack - &lt;em&gt;Requires Original Game (or one of the reimplementations)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Werewolf: Deluxe Edition For Kickstarter - &lt;em&gt;Contains: Deluxe Edition +  Classic Movie Monsters + Night Terrors + Urban Legends + Wolfpack (NOT Artifacts)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10046" LastEditorUserId="10046" LastEditDate="2019-02-11T19:13:30.063" LastActivityDate="2019-02-11T19:13:30.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20868" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-11-25T16:57:57.580" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T16:57:57.580" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T16:57:57.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20869" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-11-25T16:57:57.580" Score="0" Body="A team game is one in which players can or must play on teams with other players.  A team game has cooperative elements (players can cooperate with other players on the same team) but differs from a fully cooperative game in that there are multiple teams vying for victory and only one can win.  " OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2014-11-25T19:50:55.920" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T19:50:55.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T17:43:13.647" Score="4" ViewCount="6400" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had arguments on the interpretation of 2 different missions in the last week. To me the interpretation is pretty obvious but I do want to verify. I'm hoping you guys can help :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mission: Conquer one territory on 5 different continents. Play at the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to me I interpret this as, in one turn, you need to attack and win in 5 different continents. My opponent argued that he already owned Africa so he only needed to do so in 4 different continents. His argument was that if he owned 3 different continents, would that stop him from completing the mission? I said yes. Who's right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mission: Control 3 different continents. Play at the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpret this as owning 3 different continents at the end of your turn. So at the beginning of my turn if I don't own any of them, and at the end of my turn I own 3, I've fulfilled my mission. My opponent was arguing that control means you have to hold it for a turn (which is usually true) but since specifically said to play at the &lt;strong&gt;end&lt;/strong&gt; of your turn, I think doing this all in one turn is fine. I also think in a game of mission risk holding on to &lt;strong&gt;three&lt;/strong&gt; different continents for a whole turn is almost impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10062" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T15:12:20.340" LastActivityDate="2020-02-07T11:36:30.597" Title="Mission Risk - ambiguous missions" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20870" CreationDate="2014-11-25T18:09:58.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule book: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Risk_2003.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Risk_2003.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The 5 Territories Mission&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three possible interpretations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The player needs to have conquered all of the territories this turn.  This has the problem that a player who controls two or more continents cannot fulfill this mission.  I believe the rules do not support this interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The player can have conquered the territories at any point in the past and that's it.  This has the problem that a player who has fulfilled this condition at any point can claim this mission at any later point.  This has tenuous rules support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The player can have conquered the territories at any point, but must still control them to claim the mission.  I believe this is the correct reading, but my argument for this over option 2 is weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mission does not specify that the conquering all needs to be done in a turn.  It simply means you have to have conquered a territory on each of five continents at some point already.  It does seems like a bit much bookkeeping to me, but that's how the rules and cards read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 12: You win the invasion when you defeat the last defending unit from a territory.  You have now conquered this territory.   Take the units used to win the battle and move them from the battleground into the territory you have invaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 17: You may claim a mission once you have achieved what it says on the card.  But you cannot claim more than one mission a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the very minimum, we can conclude that you can claim a mission even if didn't take all of the actions required to complete it this turn.  This must be true, or else the mission &amp;quot;Control Europe - play at the start of your turn&amp;quot; would be impossible (as this is a mission where you need to have taken the actions to bring you to the state where you controlled Europe on a previous turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this mission does not specify whether the conquering needs to have happened this turn, then the conquering certainly could have happened in the past.  This rules out interpretation 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question then is whether your status of having conquered a territory is an indelible event in history (interpretation 2), or if it's tied to the current game state (interpretation 3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I prefer interpretation 3, so I'm going to try to create a rules justification for it, but I admit that this is a bit of a stretch.  The justification for this is a nuanced reading of the term conquer.  The rules for conquer require you to move units into the territory, so I argue that if you no longer have units in the territory, you lose your status as its conqueror.  If this is true, this mission says &amp;quot;conquer&amp;quot; and not &amp;quot;control&amp;quot; to prevent players from being credited with territories they claimed during initial setup (which are &amp;quot;claimed&amp;quot; and not &amp;quot;conquered&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Continents Mission&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 8: If you control every territory within a continent, you control that continent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 7: territories you control [are] the territories with your units in them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is a deviation from classic risk which has the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To control a continent, you must occupy all of its territories at the start of your turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rules supplied with mission risk, you may conquer the continents that turn and still have that count towards the mission.  In fact, it should be obvious from the fact that you claim that mission at the end of your turn that you can have conquered the third continent on the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T19:36:06.113" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-25T20:49:41.763" Score="2" ViewCount="536" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason for why were the five colors of MTG ordered, clockwise, white, blue, black, red and green?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10051" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T20:52:04.660" Title="The origin of the color wheel" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20872" CreationDate="2014-11-25T20:52:04.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The colors adjacent to each other on the pentagon are &quot;allied&quot; and often have similar, complementary abilities. For example, Blue has a relatively large number of flying creatures, as do White and Black, which are next to it. The two non-adjacent colors to a particular color are &quot;enemy&quot; colors, and are thematically opposed. For instance, Red tends to be very aggressive, while White and Blue are often more defensive in nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that white is on the top has a reason though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2014-11-25T20:52:04.660" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20874" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20875" CreationDate="2014-11-25T21:13:58.080" Score="27" ViewCount="5768" Body="&lt;p&gt;When does priority actually matter in magic?  I have been playing Magic since Time Spiral and have never once seen the rules for priority matter.  I've never heard a question from a player about a game situation to which the answer was, &quot;Oh, well it's right here in the rules for priority.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me elaborate.  Most other games handle questions of precedence (I want to do this but my opponent wants to do something conflicting) with a system of priority.  Magic handles questions of this type with the stack.  Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/14335/what-tap-effect-has-precedence/14337&quot;&gt;What tap effect has precedence?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a 2/2 and I want to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on it while my opponent wants to kill it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;?  Resolved by the stack.  Priority doesn't actually matter here.  It's not a question of who has the option to act first, it's about who &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; act first, and because the person that acts first in this situation loses, the solution (given both players run &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTelepathy%5d&quot;&gt;Telepathy&lt;/a&gt;) is for both players to pass and the game to move on to the next step or phase.  But this isn't a quirk of priority, this is that the Nash Equilibrium given perfect information and how the stack works is for neither player to cast his/her spell.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I want to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSilence%5d&quot;&gt;Silence&lt;/a&gt; on my opponent during his/her upkeep but he/she wants to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; on me first.  Sure, a player get's priority on his/her turn before other players, so he/she has the option to cast a spell before I can cast Silence, but &lt;em&gt;it doesn't matter&lt;/em&gt;!  Since this all happens during the upkeep, the spell I want to cast has to be instant speed anyways, so it can be cast in response to Silence while Silence is on the stack.  Since Silence only takes effect on resolution, what order it and another spell are cast in won't change either spell's resolution (unless the other spell is a counterspell).  In almost all situations, Silence only changes the ability for the player to cast things post-upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all of the above situations, the stack is what determines what happens.  Players priority in putting things on the stack doesn't matter since in the above cases (and the overwhelming majority of cases I've seen), as it is the ability to react that matters, not the ability to act first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, given how the stack works, does priority actually matter in Magic?  If so, what types of situations are the rules for priority needed to actually determine what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here are the rules for priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card&#xA;  during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities&#xA;  that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on&#xA;  the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players&#xA;  usually don't get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives&#xA;  priority afterward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player's mana pool, he or&#xA;  she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order&#xA;  receives priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability&#xA;  on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or&#xA;  step ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2020-02-24T02:10:28.503" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T16:17:15.303" Title="Does priority matter in Magic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-priority|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="25" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20874" CreationDate="2014-11-25T21:13:58.080" Score="35" Body="&lt;p&gt;Priority can matter, but only in rare corner cases.  Here are the main types of situations where priority matters.  Some of these are pretty obscure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Split second cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your turn.  You have in hand &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Depths%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Depths&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVampire%20Hexmage%5d&quot;&gt;Vampire Hexmage&lt;/a&gt; for the infamous Marit Lage combo.  Your opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Death%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Death&lt;/a&gt; in hand.  Can you summon Marit Lage?  The answer is yes.  You retain priority through playing Dark Depths and casting Vampire Hexmage, then your opponent gains priority while Hexmage is on the stack (which is still too early to cast Sudden Death on it), but then your opponent cannot respond again between the Hexmage resolving, entering the battlefield, and you activating its sacrifice ability.  As the active player, you can retain control through this entire process.  That said, if you were putting the Hexmage onto the battlefield on your opponent's turn through &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAether%20Vial%5d&quot;&gt;Aether Vial&lt;/a&gt;, they would be able to Sudden Death it before you could use its ability because they have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead your plan is to win via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChance%20Encounter%5d&quot;&gt;Chance Encounter&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFrenetic%20Efreet%5d&quot;&gt;Frenetic Efreet&lt;/a&gt;, you can still do it facing a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Death%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Death&lt;/a&gt; if it is your turn and you play Chance Encounter first.  After the Efreet enters the battlefield, you have priority and retain it through as many activations of its ability as you want.  You can have a billion activations of its ability on the stack by the time your opponent has the option to Sudden Death it, giving you near statistical certainty that you will have enough counters on Chance Encounter to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason split second cards matter with priority is that they temporarily change how the stack works.  Instead of a player being able to respond at any time, they can't respond until the split second card has finished resolving, meaning when you can cast them matters since players cannot react with other spells or abilities once they are cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sorcery speed abilities (such as planeswalker abilities)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a planeswalker spell resolves, assuming it was the bottom spell on the stack and cast by the active player (so not cast using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVedalken%20Orrery%5d&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt; or the like), the active player has the option to activate one of it's abilities before anyone else can do anything.  This is important because if someone else could do something, they could &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; your planeswalker before you could use one of its abilities.  This pretty much only matters with planeswalkers because their abilities are sorcery speed.  Almost all other activated abilities of permanents are instant speed.  Those that aren't also benefit from priority.  This is anything with the text &amp;quot;Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&amp;quot; such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAggravated%20Assault%5d&quot;&gt;Aggravated Assault&lt;/a&gt;.  Basically, if you have a permanent enter the battlefield under your control, you can put one of its sorcery speed abilities on the stack before anyone else can kill or destroy the permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception to this is if the card with a sorcery speed ability triggers an enter the battlefield ability, in which case the stack will not be empty when you gain priority and players will be able to use instant speed removal before you can use its abilitiy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in this category are the ability to trigger abilities with sorcery speed cards, such as the situation in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/15345/when-can-you-keep-priority&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.  If the active player has just cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKor%20Spiritdancer%5d&quot;&gt;Kor Spiritdancer&lt;/a&gt; and it resolves and doesn't trigger any enter the battlefield abilities, the active player will be able to cast an Aura and consequently trigger the Spiritdancer's ability before the other player has the chance to play instant speed removal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A change in casting eligibility as a result of a non-stack action (such as paying a cost, activating a mana ability, or unmorphing a creature)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are playing a mill deck against a burn deck.  Your opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSearing%20Blaze%5d&quot;&gt;Searing Blaze&lt;/a&gt; in hand and you are at 1 life.  Meanwhile, your opponent has three cards left in his/her library, and they are all copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.  You have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAltar%20of%20Dementia%5d&quot;&gt;Altar of Dementia&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and a beefy creature in hand.  Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This matters includes, but also goes far beyond, priority.  First, Searing Blaze requires that you have a creature on the battlefield for it to be cast.  The requirement is just for casting; the creature need not be there on resolution since as long as any of a spell's targets are still legal, the spell will resolve.  Additionally, sacrificing a creature to the Altar is part of the cost for the altar, and so the sacrifice doesn't use the stack.  Consequently, there is an action that doesn't use the stack that changes whether or not another action can be put on the stack.  It's a fairly rare situation, but it is one where priority matters.  If it is your turn, your creature can enter battlefield and then be sacrificed to the altar without your opponent getting priority.  By the time he/she has priority, the creature is already in the graveyard, and so Searing Blaze cannot be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Retaining priority after playing a land&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also going to be a bit contrived.  You have some creature that you need to give double strike in order for you to win.  You have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAssault%20Strobe%5d&quot;&gt;Assault Strobe&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMountain%5d&quot;&gt;Mountain&lt;/a&gt; in hand, and several Mountains on the battlefield.  Your opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMana%20Short%5d&quot;&gt;Mana Short&lt;/a&gt;.  Because of priority, they cannot stop you from casting Assault Strobe.  If they cast Mana Short before your main phase, you can just play the Mountain on your main phase and then cast Assault Strobe with it.  Meanwhile, if they wait, you retain priority after playing the land, and so can still cast Assault Strobe before they cast Mana Short.  The first chance they have to cast Mana Short during your main phase is in response to Assault Strobe.  Basically, this just means that Mana Short should be played before your opponent's main phase and that it doesn't deprive them of mana sources they get after that point, but this isn't exactly news.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is the case for the sorcery speed abilities, if the land entering the battlefield triggers an ability, the stack won't be empty when you receive priority, so your opponent will have a chance to use Mana Short before you can cast Assault Strobe since sorceries can only be cast when the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Breaking the symmetry of hidden information&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one introduced in comments and is perhaps the hardest to formalize.  Take the example in the question where a player is attacking with a 2/2 and has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; while the defender has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.  It is now the declare blockers step, the last time to cast spells before combat damage.  If neither player knows about the other's threatened instant, than each player is eager to cast his/her card but whoever does so first loses the interaction.  Here, that the active player must chose first is a disadvantage because it causes the active player to be the one to make the bad decision rather than the non-active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the application of priority rules here is only relevant if players are using a low degree of short-cutting (namely the non-active player waits for explicit verbal confirmation that the active player is not acting during the declare blockers step before announcing &amp;quot;I do this during the declare blockers&amp;quot;).  In addition, no player trying to win will invoke priority rules here if he or she is erroneously skipped; the ability to respond is far more valuable.  As a final point to why this situation is particularly rare, both players must have to have basically equal willingness to take an action that is disadvantageous given full information.  For this to actually be the case requires fairly specific setups of both game board and player psyche, and occurs rather rarely in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Multiplayer&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple players want to respond to a particular event (such as by countering a mass-removal spell), whoever is earlier in priority will be at the disadvantage of acting first.  Perfect information in this situation doesn't help.  The first player with the option to counter the spell cannot know for certain the true priorities of the next player with the option to counter it.  The first player must chose whether to counter the spell or risk it going uncountered where the second player has the leisure of only needing to counter it if the first does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2021-02-14T16:17:15.303" LastActivityDate="2021-02-14T16:17:15.303" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20659" CreationDate="2014-11-25T21:33:12.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://hiewandboardgames.blogspot.ca/2008_12_01_archive.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://hiewandboardgames.blogspot.ca/2008_12_01_archive.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To beat the robot you need to understand how it works and know how to minimize the chances of indirectly helping it. Knowing that sometimes it &quot;copies&quot; your actions, you need to think twice before selecting Consume x 2 if the robot's economy size is 5 (i.e. it would score 10VP if it also does Consume x 2). The robot's main ways of scoring are the 6-cost development tiles and the victory points. I find that usually it doesn't score much from worlds or normal developments. The 6-cost dev tiles (as opposed to dev cards) are a mechanism to adjust the difficulty level. The robot most of the time will be able to play all of its 6-cost dev tiles, unless you are really really quick in ending the game. So when you decide to play with 1 6VP tile (easy), 2 6VP tiles (medium) or 3 9VP tiles (hard), you are more or less already deciding that the robot will at least have 6VP / 12VP / 27VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You need to watch the robot's economy size closely. It's kind of a countdown timer. The robot's economy will grow, sometimes quickly sometimes not, and the bigger it grows, the more dangerous it will be. You cannot allow it to do Consume too many times, especially when its economy size is big. It can earn lots of VPs this way, and also end the game very quickly by exhausting the VPs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T05:11:11.193" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T05:11:11.193" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T03:09:43.480" Score="3" ViewCount="2404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a deck and it has cards that have two colors within one mana symbol, like &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zYhYL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;. Do I have to pay both colors or can I choose between the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10067" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T18:32:43.307" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:33:33.887" Title="How do I play a card if it has two colors within the one mana symbol in its cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20877" CreationDate="2014-11-26T03:18:47.147" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana symbols such as &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zYhYL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; are called a hybrid mana cost. You can pay that cost with either of the 2 colors shown. Here is a brief summary of hybrid mana rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hybrid mana symbols represent a cost that can be paid with either of two colors. For example, a cost represented by the &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zYhYL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; symbol can be paid with one white mana or one blue mana. It’s both a white and a blue mana symbol, and a card with &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zYhYL.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; in its mana cost is both white and blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T18:33:33.887" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T18:33:33.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20882" CreationDate="2014-11-26T14:51:58.270" Score="4" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, I'm getting my feet wet with &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/peasant-magic-2002-06-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peasant Magic&lt;/a&gt;, and wanted to know what exactly &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/card/atq/80a/mishras-factory?utm_source=mci&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mishra's Factory&lt;/a&gt; counts as in terms of rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who don't know, Peasant is an inofficial constructed format allowing cards from all expansions - the only limitations are that you aren't allowed to use rares, and your deck may only contain a maximum of 5 uncommons. &lt;em&gt;If it was ever printed as uncommon or common&lt;/em&gt;, you can bring it along.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there's this card called Mishra's Factory that I'm really fond of, and that I'd like to include in my deck. Mishra's Factory is listed as uncommon, and as such can be used. So far, so good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rarity of one of its alternative-art prints is listed not as &lt;strong&gt;(U1)&lt;/strong&gt;, but as &lt;strong&gt;(C1)&lt;/strong&gt; instead - which is weird because they're from the same set, and any later reprint too is listed as uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hi2g1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The print in-question&quot; /&gt; &lt;strong&gt;VS&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UrxxM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;A newest print&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, here's my question: Is this particular old print in fact common? And as a consequence, does that mean I may freely run a full playset of Factories in Pearsant (or Pauper, even) without using up my uncommon slots on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone could clear this up a bit, they'd be more than welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10069" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T05:53:27.750" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T05:53:27.750" Title="Mishra's Factory - Rarity and Peasant/Pauper Legality" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20880" CreationDate="2014-11-26T15:03:11.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend using &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/&lt;/a&gt; for rarity, as gatherer has some of the cards mislabeled (or labeled as multiple rarities). Other than that, it's probably wise to use the latest printed version of the card (which in this case is uncommon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it entirely depends on what your playgroup agrees upon, since the format is not officially supported by WOTC, and events are most likely not sanctoined as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10072" LastEditorUserId="10072" LastEditDate="2014-11-26T15:08:42.160" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T15:08:42.160" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20880" CreationDate="2014-11-26T15:07:32.060" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;C1 means it is an Uncommon even though it was printed on the Common sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back when Antiquities was printed they only had 2 printing sheets, an Uncommon sheet and a Common sheet, then on each sheet there was a variable number of each card printed to create its rarity. This designation of rarity is written like U1 or C4, denoting one copy on the Uncommon sheet and 4 copies on the Common sheet respectively. U1 cards are considered Rares, U3 and C1 cards have the same rarity and are considered Uncommons, C4 cards are Commons, U2 and C2 cards are a little weird and seem to get classified as Uncommons even though they are actually more rare/common respectively. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antiquities_%28Magic:_The_Gathering%29#Rarity_breakdown&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt you can always check &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=218340&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;. As you can see it considers 3 of the arts to be Rare (since they were printed at U1) and one of them to be Uncommon (because it was printed at C1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T15:07:32.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20815" CreationDate="2014-11-26T15:30:03.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your interpretation is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic_ITL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pandemic In the lab&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A cube removed from the board by Events, the Containment Specialist’s&#xA;  ability, t&lt;strong&gt;he Medic’s ability to automatically remove cured disease&#xA;  cubes&lt;/strong&gt;, etc. may not be placed in a sample dish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pandemic&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Medic removes all cubes, not 1, of the same color when doing the&#xA;  Treat Disease action. &lt;strong&gt;If a disease has been cured , he automatically&#xA;  removes all cubes of that color from a city, simply by entering it or&#xA;  being there&lt;/strong&gt;. This does not take an action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could find nowhere in the rules that said the medic's ability was optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T15:30:03.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-26T22:09:05.280" Score="3" ViewCount="4827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty much a beginner at deck building, and I'm toying around with a Modern GR Shaman tribal deck. It's too slow to be competitive, but there are a lot of options and things to try out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it hard to decide whether &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aether%20Vial&quot;&gt;Aether Vial&lt;/a&gt; is good in it, and what adjustments I should make to the deck if I decide to include it. Aether Vial seems like an awesome card at first sight (putting creatures on the board for free, at instant speed, for an initial 1 mana? Huh?) but I note that very few competitive decks run it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arguments against and for I can think of: by itself, it doesn't do anything yet, and having multiple in your starting hand means you probably have too few creatures. You can only use it for creatures with the right CMC, and you can only add counters, not remove them. On the other hand, it does save mana that can be left up for other things, and instant speed is nothing to sneeze at. My creatures have CMC of 1, 2, 3, 4 (too spread out?) but I don't have many 1-drops, and Vial is one, so that helps. Those are things I see. But I can't decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kind of reasoning should I use to decide whether Aether Vial is worth it in any given Modern deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T12:29:03.683" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T15:38:02.443" Title="In what kind of deck is Aether Vial good?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20886" CreationDate="2014-11-26T23:40:32.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aether%20Vial&quot;&gt;Aether Vial&lt;/a&gt; does best in a creature-heavy deck where many of the creatures have low CMC. Having to tick up a Vial to 3 or 4 means waiting 3 or 4 turns before it gives you any value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the points you listed above, one advantage that you missed is that creatures put into play by Vial are not cast, and therefore sidestep counterspells and related effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This property also enables the Vial to break symmetry on effects that prevent players from casting spells, or affect the costs to cast spells: (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trinisphere&quot;&gt;Trinisphere&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standstill&quot;&gt;Standstill&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphere%20of%20Resistance&quot;&gt;Sphere of Resistance&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rule%20of%20Law&quot;&gt;Rule of Law&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiples are not completely redundant: in addition to being able to vial in multiple creatures per turn, you can hold the vials at different number of counters, for creatures with different CMC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the reason you don't see it more often in competitive play is that simply putting more creatures on the board isn't always that strong of an effect. Many decks with lots of cheap creatures are on an aggro plan, and so Vial is both tempo loss and card disadvantage. The positive benefits of Vial accrue over multiple turns, so it does the most work in a deck that wants somewhat longer games, and also has lots of cheap creatures, preferably with redundant synergy (e.g., Fish).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-11-26T23:40:32.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20886" CreationDate="2014-11-27T07:10:07.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Merfolk decks in Legacy are a good use of AEther Vial, because they're packed with 1- to 3-cost creatures and their play strategy is to dump a bunch of them on the board quickly. To take an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgtop8.com/event?e=8471&amp;amp;d=248633&amp;amp;f=LE&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;arbitrarily selected decklist&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Cavern of Souls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Mutavault&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;12 Island&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1-cost Creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Cursecatcher&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2-cost creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Silvergill Adept&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Lord of Atlantis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Master of the Pearl Trident&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 Phantasmal Image&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3-cost creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 Merrow Reejerey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 True-Name Nemesis&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Noncreature spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;1 Relic of Progenitus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;2 Umezawa's Jitte&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Æther Vial&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;3 Daze&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;4 Force of Will&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A web search for &lt;strong&gt;legacy merfolk&lt;/strong&gt; will find you plenty of other sample decklists with similar distributions. The point is, this is the kind of mana curve it takes to make AEther Vial good, but it's also important that the creatures have strong synergies, because any random bunch of small creatures doesn't make a competitive deck. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/World_Championship_Decks#Brian_Hacker.2C_Quarterfinalist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;anymore&lt;/a&gt; :-P)&#xA;That's why putting together this kind of deck is not quite as viable in Modern; it doesn't have as many synergistic creatures. You can still do it though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe there are some cool tricks you can pull using AEther Vial to put out a giant creature late in the game, but I don't see that being very likely, and as far as I know it's never been exploited successfully in a competitive deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T08:49:40.463" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T08:49:40.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-27T08:44:10.267" Score="1" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love this game and play quite regularly. Yet I don't seem to be able to advance my strategy level. Does anyone know of any decent resources that could help me here? I can handle it written in French.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10080" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:55:41.830" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T23:55:41.830" Title="Tarot card game strategies" Tags="|tarot|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-03T23:49:02.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20988" CreationDate="2014-11-27T09:02:23.730" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to learn more about semeai and be able to quickly learn about how to handle the most common situations (determine quickly whether a group is alive, dead, or undetermined).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there is the simple idea that counting liberties works in simple cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there is the idea that eyes generally require more attack moves that their number of liberties (along with &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?SemeaiMnemonic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pre-calculated values&lt;/a&gt; that are easy to remember), which is a special case of having to count approach moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, I am still at a stage where I have to mostly read the sequence in my mind and keep track of outside liberties, shared liberties, eye liberties, etc., which is slow and error-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not yet looked further in details yet: what would be the fastest way of learning useful information applicable to most semeais encountered in real games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some specific pages on Sensei's Library (&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?NoEyeVersusNoEyeCapturingRace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;no eye vs no eye&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?EyeVersusNoEyeCapturingRace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eye vs no eye&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?EyeVersusEyeCapturingRace)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eye vs eye&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also two books (&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?CountingLibertiesAndWinningCapturingRaces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Counting Liberties and Winning Capturing Races&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?CapturingRaces1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Capturing Races 1&lt;/a&gt;) and a more recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://lie.math.brocku.ca/twolf/papers/semeai.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mathematical paper&lt;/a&gt; (I don't mind math).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would you suggest is the most efficient way of getting practical semeai tools that cover most common situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS: The pages at Sensei's Library give a quick overview that lacks details or even sometimes basic definitions, so they are not a good starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8143" LastEditorUserId="8143" LastEditDate="2014-11-27T12:33:24.280" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T14:54:53.873" Title="First things to learn about semeai?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9372" CreationDate="2014-11-27T09:29:35.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think in this case, that the phrasing &quot;decapitate&quot; is more a metaphor than an actual skill. I haven't found a unit that has a skill named that, so I don't think that is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional, i dont fully agree with the claim. Yes, you could to some heavy start nuking with some combos, but then it's a question of counterplaying it in your own lineup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lineup poised on striking fast and hard often have little room if they dont succeed in that first strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, some characters and units in Diskwars ARE a bit out of balance, but that's just my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1536" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T09:29:35.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20890" CreationDate="2014-11-27T11:41:27.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also an extremely thorough coverage of semeai in &quot;The Second Book of Go&quot;.  It's out of print, but it looks like there are used copies available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T11:41:27.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20886" CreationDate="2014-11-27T15:38:02.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Besides the fact that you need a critical mass of creatures with a certain curve to make vial good you should probably look at the format you want to play it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to consider here include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How long do games last, do you have manasinks in your deck, how prevalent is countermagic, do you need to play around (mass-)removal, can your creatures provide tricks when they etb, are there some special synergies your deck can make use of (e.g. Standstill, Affinity), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Legacy Merfolk is one of the decks that profit from almost all of these points.&#xA;Since the Counterbalance/Sensei's Divining Top two card combo is so strong in Legacy Vial is much better there than in Modern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10082" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T15:38:02.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20890" CreationDate="2014-11-27T21:09:40.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the OP&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;That said, I am still at a stage where I have to mostly read the sequence in my mind and keep track of outside liberties, shared liberties, eye liberties, etc., which is slow and error-prone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is good for you as long as you know how to kill/live in certain shapes. Reading is very important in all aspects of Go  and this is a good time to practice it. The links you mentioned on Sensei's library will be useful. Try to remember the facts so that it will become instinctive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2014-11-27T21:09:40.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19001" CreationDate="2014-11-27T23:31:17.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Decks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course you can always try getting your feet wet with &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151127023450/http://www.cubedrafting.com/2009/03/20/how-to-begin-your-cube/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cube&lt;/a&gt;-like settings (and it can be incredibly fun), but trying to crunch &lt;em&gt;constructed&lt;/em&gt; decks from a limited pool is something I wouldn't necessarily recommend, as it's all but guaranteed to have any balanced results. In general, card-by-card construction is something I'm skeptical about for beginners, balancing and pricyness being not even the main reason:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least to me, customizing your deck to suit your personal playstyle is a main factor in what makes MTG so intriguing; simply baking up a set of cookie-cut decks might make for consistent (albeit not necessarily fair) matchups, but pretty much removes that aspect entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my cap, the best steppingstone regardless of what format you aim for would be the preconstructed intro packs or duel decks - I'd recommend the latter, as they typically pack more punch for their money, and are specifically built to go up against another. This is where you come in - get a hold of the decklists for the packs currently available, talk to your friends about which aspects they'd like to see more of in your games, and which pack would best meet that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these give each player a playable base to learn the curves with, and to tweak and improve upon for themselves by adding or removing certain cards - which is again where you, as the one with the card-pool and experience, can help them out, or they themselves might want to expand their repertoire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once everyone has a deck to play with, all that's needed is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A Setup where Everyone gets to play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two-Headed Giant being something you're already familiar with, here's a multiplayer variant for 5+ players, perfectly fit for quick lunch-time games, a format dubbed &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Bad Neighbour&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; by our local playgroup. It's a setup that can be played with any number of players, really, but it's best suited for groups of 5. Here's how it looks like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZgYK1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example for a 5-player setup&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player to the left and the player to the right (your &amp;quot;neighbours&amp;quot;) are your opponents. Those two players (and planeswalkers they control) are the only people you can attack. It is your goal to get rid of these two by whatever means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two players on the other side of the table are your allies. You cannot attack them, and they can't be targeted or affected by any effect aiming for an opponent (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/avr/en/84.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player to have both of their neighbours eliminated is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big advantage this has over free-for-all is that &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Let's all kill Jeff first, he has the strongest deck!&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; kind of scenarios aren't possible, and games are typically shorter, making them less of a pain for those who fail out early. It's a rather diverse experience too, since simply switching seats makes for a whole set of new matchups. It also offers a less cramped gameflow than the classic 5-star, as you won't have the two players trying to bring you down consecutively take turns, but rather get to to your own thing &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; the two, allowing everyone to play a lot more offensively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, it's pretty much the best setup I know of for when there's a lot of players, but only little time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10069" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-04T19:28:53.397" LastActivityDate="2022-05-04T19:28:53.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20897" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-28T05:37:54.967" Score="0" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383263&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Haunted Plate Mail&lt;/a&gt; tells &quot;Activate this ability only if you control no creatures.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to make sure I understood it right: Only if you control no Creatures on the &lt;strong&gt;Battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T07:13:11.063" Title="Can you use Haunted Plate Mail as a Spirit ONLY when it hangs around all alone on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-28T05:46:27.510" Score="1" ViewCount="86" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370750&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ajani's Chosen&lt;/a&gt; cannot use it's ability from Enchantments played &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; this card, but since I was asked about this and I'm not 100% sure myself either, I thought of making sure about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T06:56:39.580" Title="Does Ajani's Chosen allow adding creatures from Enchantments played before this card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20898" CreationDate="2014-11-28T06:56:39.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it can't do anything about enchantments played before the card comes into play. Triggered abilities don't activate retroactively as if the permanent was there all along &amp;mdash; it missed out, the opportunity has passed, and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ajani's Chosen was not there to see previous events, so it can't do anything about them. You will not get creature tokens for enchantments that have already entered the battlefield, nor be able to attach them to tokens you create.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T06:56:39.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20897" CreationDate="2014-11-28T07:13:11.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules for permanents&lt;/a&gt;, specifically 110.2, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A permanent's owner is the same as the owner of the card that represents it (unless it's a token; see rule 110.5a). A permanent's controller is, by default, the player under whose control it entered the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;Every permanent has a controller.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only permanents have controllers, and 110.1 says &quot;A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield,&quot; so yes, &quot;creatures you control&quot; means &quot;creatures on the battlefield that you control.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, it's worth mentioning that &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 109.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Haunted Plate Mail just says &quot;creatures,&quot; it is referring to creature permanents on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T07:13:11.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20903" CreationDate="2014-11-28T13:06:21.170" Score="5" ViewCount="3917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253655&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hypersonic Dragon&lt;/a&gt; in play and go to combat phase. Dring the declare attackers step I tap and declare Hypersonic Dragon as attacking. After I have declared Hypersonic Dragon as attacking I get priority (as there are nothing else on the battlefield generating triggers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Relentless Assault&lt;/a&gt; and it resolves. Since this is during combat, there is no additional Combat or Main Phase added, but is Hypersonic Dragon untapped now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, at what point is Hypersonic Dragon &quot;a creature that attacked&quot;? What is the earliest Relentless Assault can be played to get the untap effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5255" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T03:57:57.127" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T03:57:57.127" Title="Does &quot;an attacking creature&quot; count as &quot;a creature that attacked&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20901" CreationDate="2014-11-28T14:03:21.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Hypersonic Dragon will be untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is well established that to attack is to declare as an attacker, so a creature that attacked is one that has been declared as an attacker earlier in the current turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.2. Second, any abilities that triggered on attackers being declared go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.2a Abilities that trigger on a creature attacking trigger only at the point the creature is declared as an attacker. They will not trigger if a creature attacks and then that creature’s characteristics change to match the ability’s trigger condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule and ruling for &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/isd/en/213.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;put on the battlefield attacking&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; further supports this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.4. If a creature is put onto the battlefield attacking, [...]. Such creatures are “attacking” but, for the purposes of trigger events and effects, they never “attacked.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2011-9-22 Although the token is attacking, it was never declared as an attacking creature (for purposes of abilities that trigger whenever a creature attacks, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T14:22:56.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20901" CreationDate="2014-11-28T14:20:22.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature is put onto the battlefield attacking, its controller chooses which defending player or&#xA;  which planeswalker a defending player controls it’s attacking as it enters the battlefield (unless the&#xA;  effect that put it onto the battlefield specifies what it’s attacking). Such creatures are “attacking”&#xA;  but, for the purposes of trigger events and effects, they never “attacked.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this rule we can infer that &quot;Attacking&quot; means currently in combat attacking the defending player or planeswalker, while &quot;Attacked&quot; means was declared as an attacker in the Declare Attackers Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want to untap your Hypersonic Dragon you can do it any time after the Declare Attackers Step. Note that you will not get the additional Combat and Main Phases unless the spell resolves during a Main Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T14:20:22.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20905" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21101" CreationDate="2014-11-28T15:13:36.540" Score="3" ViewCount="206" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the &quot;Loss of Vision&quot; mythos card, can the keeper play additional mythos cards that require the investigator to be in a room with darkness for any room that investigator is in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I interpreted as yes, but only effecting that specific investigator though it's caused some debate amongst our group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd appreciate any insight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6593" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T21:46:28.813" Title="Mansions of Madness - Loss of Vision" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20908" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:18:57.313" Score="2" ViewCount="6185" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tethmos%20High%20Priest&quot;&gt;Tethmos High Priest&lt;/a&gt; has the heroic ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell that targets Tethmos, return target creature card with converted mana cost 2 or less from graveyard to battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Favor&quot;&gt;Divine Favor&lt;/a&gt; is cast, targeting Tethmos. It is countered by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Negate&quot;&gt;Negate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last sentence of 601.2c is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any abilities that trigger when those players, objects, and/or zones&#xA;become the target of a spell trigger at this point; they'll wait to be&#xA;put on the stack until the spell has finished being cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of 601.2c is that Divine favor starts one stack, and when that stack gets resolved, another stack is processed that starts with the Tethmos heroic ability being triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this specific case where only one instant is cast (negate), Divine Favor gets negated and has no effect. However, the heroic ability &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; get triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this interpretation correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it the case in general that heroic abilities do trigger even when the enchantment is countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T22:48:50.143" LastActivityDate="2017-01-22T19:29:38.057" Title="When a spell targeting a creature with heroic gets countered, does heroic still trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-heroic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20906" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:30:15.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tethmos's ability only care that Tethmos was targeted by a spell; it doesn't care what happens to the spell afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time your opponent cast Negate, not only did Tethmos's ability trigger, it was already placed on the stack. Neither of those things can be undone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Favor&quot;&gt;Divine Favor&lt;/a&gt; targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tethmos%20High%20Priest&quot;&gt;Tethmos High Priest&lt;/a&gt;. Tethmos's ability triggers&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2h],[CR 603.2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next time a player would get priority&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;, Tethmos's ability is placed on the stack&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.3]&lt;/sup&gt; targeting an appropriate card in your graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Negate&quot;&gt;Negate&lt;/a&gt; targeting Divine Favor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Negate resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divine Favor is countered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tethmos's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return target creature card with converted mana cost 2 or less from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[This is where Divine Favour would resolve if it hadn't been countered.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this case, that means you place it on the stack, choose its target, activate mana abilities, and pay its cost&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you had priority when you cast Divine Favor, you regain priority immediately after casting Divine Favor&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2h]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T17:41:41.327" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:41:41.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20906" CreationDate="2014-11-28T17:31:33.663" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that the Heroic ability does trigger and successfully resolve, but your understanding about how and why it does is a little off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fist of all, there is only one Stack. The Stack is a game zone just like the Battlefield or Exile, it is always there even if there are no abilities or spells in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what happens when you cast Divine Favor is you finish casting it targeting Tethmos High Priest and put it on the Stack. Then before either you or your opponent have a chance to do anything the priest's Heroic ability triggers and goes on the Stack. When you put the Heroic ability on the Stack you chose the target you want to return to the Battlefield. Once the ability is on the Stack and you pass priority your opponent has the opportunity to cast Negate, so the Stack now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(top)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Negate (targeting Divine Favor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heroic ability (targeting something in the Graveyard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divine Favor (targeting the High Priest)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(bottom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Negate resolves it will counter the Divine Favor, but as you can see the Heroic ability is already on the Stack, so it doesn't care that the reason it triggered isn't there anymore, it will still happily resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a generic case for all Heroic abilities, they only care that they were targeted by a spell, what happens to the spell after that doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T17:39:11.860" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-28T18:48:31.510" Score="2" ViewCount="32901" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I tap a creature to use its activated ability before combat, can I use the same creature to block or attack on the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess: you cannot block and/or attack with a tapped creature on the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T22:11:06.137" LastActivityDate="2021-10-01T20:07:29.137" Title="Can a tapped creature attack or block?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20910" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20912" CreationDate="2014-11-28T18:55:14.613" Score="3" ViewCount="4354" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend was counting the number of Creatures in his Graveyard and then randomizing the order the cards are in. Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-11-28T22:10:46.497" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T21:22:42.190" Title="Can you change the order of cards in a Graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20909" CreationDate="2014-11-28T18:56:03.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot attack or block  with a creature that is tapped. So you are correct, if you tap a creature to use an ability before the attack phase, you won't be able to choose it as an attacker, and it won't be an available defender during your opponent's next turn. If you attack with a creature, then you must tap it when you attack with it, so you won't be able to use it's tap ability later in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &quot;tap a creature's ability&quot; makes no sense. You cannot tap an ability. You can activate an ability, and the cost of activating that ability may be tapping the creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-11-28T18:56:03.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20910" CreationDate="2014-11-28T19:09:16.583" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;By default you are not allowed to change the order of cards in a Graveyard. This is because there are some cards that care about the order that cards are in the Graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;404.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Each graveyard is kept in a single face-up pile. A player can examine the cards in any graveyard at any time but normally can't change their order. Additional rules applying to sanctioned tournaments may allow a player to change the order of cards in his or her graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since they haven't printed any cards since before Urza's Saga that care about Graveyard order the Magic Tournament Rules contain this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.14 Graveyard Order&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  In formats involving only cards from Urza’s Saga™ and later, players may change the order of their graveyard at&#xA;  any time. A player may not change the order of an opponent’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Legacy and Vintage are the only common tournament formats that you can't rearrange your own Graveyard, you are allowed to in Standard, Modern, Draft and Sealed formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual play generally as long as nobody is playing with any cards where Graveyard order matters it isn't a big deal if graveyards get reordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T21:22:42.190" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T21:22:42.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20909" CreationDate="2014-11-28T19:59:27.277" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, tapped creatures cannot attack or block:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1a The active player chooses which creatures that they control, if any, will attack. The chosen creatures must be untapped, and each one must either have haste or have been controlled by the active player continuously since the turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1a The defending player chooses which creatures they control, if any, will block. The chosen creatures must be untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, however, that the untapped state is only checked when they are assigned to attack or block.  This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you tap the creature before combat and have a way to untap the creature again before combat (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thousand-Year%20Elixir&quot;&gt;Thousand-Year Elixir&lt;/a&gt;), it will be able to attack or block.  Look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Relentless%20Assault&quot;&gt;Relentless Assault&lt;/a&gt; as an example of a card that depends on this to work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you tap your opponent's creature before combat (such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trip%20Noose&quot;&gt;Trip Noose&lt;/a&gt;), that creature will be unable to attack unless they have some means to untap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a creature has been assigned as an attacker or blocker and subsequently becomes tapped, it will still be in combat (so you can block with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Orim%2C%20Samite%20Healer&quot;&gt;Orim, Samite Healer&lt;/a&gt; and then tap it to use it's ability after you have blocked and it will still be a blocking creature).  This is consistent with the fact that creatures normally tap when attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because creatures normally tap when attacking, you cannot both attack with a creature on your turn and block with it on your opponent's turn (exceptions: if the creature has vigilance or you have a way to untap it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of note: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Masako%20the%20Humorless&quot;&gt;Masako the Humorless&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2021-10-01T20:07:29.137" LastActivityDate="2021-10-01T20:07:29.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20922" CreationDate="2014-11-29T04:28:06.637" Score="2" ViewCount="1410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Creepers say they must be attached to a Keeper if you have a Keeper in play. If you end up with two such Creepers, and only one Keeper, can both Creepers be attached to the lone Keeper? Or is there a limit of one Creeper per Keeper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found anything in the official Rules or FAQ, which came with the game, to address this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T14:35:12.170" Title="Can two Creepers be attached to the same Keeper?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16710" CreationDate="2014-11-29T07:35:22.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;@zovits is correct - Creepers attached to Keepers generally stay that way, until a card explicitly says to do otherwise. That said, there is, in Star Fluxx, the special case of &quot;Beam Us Up&quot; which is specifically addressed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/literature/star-fluxx-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ included in the rules.&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: What happens to Creepers attached to Keepers during &lt;strong&gt;Beam Us Up&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: The Creepers stay with their Keepers until they reach a player's hand, at which point that player must immediately put them back onto the table in front of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T07:35:22.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20917" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T08:53:35.030" Score="4" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exquisite%20Blood&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sanguine%20Bond&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt; in play under my control, then I attack my opponent directly for 1 damage, but the opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Unlife&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Melira%2C%20Sylvok%20Outcast&quot;&gt;Melira, Sylvok Outcast&lt;/a&gt; in play. What happens after they take the damage? Do I win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10095" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T15:22:33.237" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T23:41:18.783" Title="What happens in this infinite damage/infect loop?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20917" CreationDate="2014-11-29T09:41:37.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would be considered a &quot;mandatory infinite loop&quot; because the effects are recursive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the rules thusly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b If a game that’s not using the limited range of influence option (including a two-player game) somehow enters a “loop” of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, &lt;strong&gt;the game is a draw&lt;/strong&gt;. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if someone can respond to one of the triggers (even the 1,000,000th one) the game is not a draw. But if no one can, or if no one reveals that they can (it could be a Doom Blade in their hand, they are not forced to reveal they have it or anything) or simply chooses not to interrupt the loop, it will be a draw. Your opponent could, in theory, lightning bolt himself to put the game into a draw if he thought he was going to lose in a few turns, for instance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T09:41:37.737" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20917" CreationDate="2014-11-29T09:43:08.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't win. Sloppily spoken, what hapens instead is that either the damage is absorbed by Unlife, or the game &lt;em&gt;crashes&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me explain:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phyrexian Unlife prevents &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt; for as long as your opponent still has life left, but not the loss of life. That means if your damage manages to pass Unlife, your combo rolls out just as usual, draining life from your opponent in an infinite loop - however, since your opponent in this situation &lt;em&gt;can't lose the game for having 0 or less life&lt;/em&gt;, this loop actually never comes to an end, and the effect cannot stop resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oficially, a situation with an unresolvable loop-up like this and no way to break out of it actually means that &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Winning_and_losing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the game ends as a draw&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;see 104.4b, specifically&lt;/em&gt;). That's how it's handled in tournament settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I've seen casual playgroups deal with these situations by ignoring the loop and just assuming that the effect has resolved for an amount of times chosen by the effect's controller, which is something making more sense gameplay-wise on my cap. Applying that to your example, you'd be free to have your effect resolve 500 times, dropping your opponent to -500 health and gaining 500 life. But yeah, since that's purely non-official, I'd recommend talking to the people you play with about how they wish to resolve a &quot;game crash&quot; like that in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10069" LastEditorUserId="10069" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T23:41:18.783" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T23:41:18.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T11:34:08.817" Score="8" ViewCount="37981" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, when you place your initial settlements, are you allowed to place them on harbors, or can you only place them on interior spots that have 3 land hexes adjacent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10096" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T16:14:47.187" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T16:14:47.187" Title="Can I place settlements on harbors in set-up?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20915" CreationDate="2014-11-29T14:35:12.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a discussion on BGG &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/917715/multiple-creeper-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/917715/multiple-creeper-question&lt;/a&gt;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q:Can a single keeper have more then one creeper attached? Evil/Malfunction, two Brain Parasites, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A:Yes, as long as both Creepers are allowed to attach to the card, there can be two Creepers attached to the same card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q:Also, do you choose which keepers get the attached creeper if you can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A:Yes, if there is more than one Keeper that a Creeper can attach to when it's played, you get to choose. If it can't attach to anything when it's played, it stays unattached and attaches to the first Keeper it can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T14:35:12.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20917" CreationDate="2014-11-29T19:47:43.120" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on how much life your opponent currently has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If your opponent has non-positive life&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent would lose a life from the damage except for Phyrexian Unlife.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead, your opponent would gain a poison counter from the damage expect for Melira, Sylvok Outcast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead, &lt;strong&gt;nothing happens to your opponent&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exquisite Blood doesn't trigger since no life was lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanguine Bond doesn't trigger since you didn't gain any life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The game goes on&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If your opponent has positive life&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent loses a life from the damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exquisite Blood triggers and gives you life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sanguine Bond triggers and cause your opponent to lose a life. Phyrexian Unlife doesn't prevent or replace loss of life, so it doesn't effect this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exquisite Blood triggers and&amp;mdash; Oh my, we've entered a loop of mandatory actions. If noone has a way of ending it, &lt;strong&gt;the game ends in a draw&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b If a game that’s not using the limited range of influence option (including a two-player game) somehow enters a “loop” of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that neither of the players are forced to end the loop even if they could. For example, if your opponent could sacrifice Phyrexian Unlife (ending the loop by losing), he doesn't have to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-29T20:09:48.567" LastActivityDate="2014-11-29T20:09:48.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20920" CreationDate="2014-11-29T20:20:48.810" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The starting player places a settlement on an open intersection of his&#xA;  choice. [From the setup instructions]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Intersections are the points where 3 hexes meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to control a harbor, you must build a settlement on a coastal intersection which borders the harbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Water hexes are hexes, so the points at which two land tiles and two water tile and the points at which of one land tile and two water tiles meet are intersections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the initial placement, you are allowed to place a settlement on any open intersection (as constrained by the proximity restrictions), so you are allowed to place on coastal intersections, so placing on a harbour is a legitimate placement for a settlement during setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is supported by the official FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Settlements and Cities - May I build a settlement at a harbor during the set-up phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. This is not contradicted by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside of placing on a harbour is obtaining the harbour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of placing on a harbour is that you touch at least one fewer resources than you could by placing elsewhere. This means your potential for gaining resources will be lower, the variety of resources you can obtain will likely be lower, and you'll start with fewer resources (if the harbour was your second placement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T02:26:43.627" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T02:26:43.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-29T21:50:43.617" Score="-2" ViewCount="2498" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you add the Power and Toughness of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373564&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nighthowler&lt;/a&gt; to the Creature's Power and Toughness?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Creature is tapped, while the Nighthowler is attached to it, can the Nighthowler both attack or block at another Creature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9994" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:45:45.933" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T08:06:50.790" Title="If Nighthowler is attached as an Enchantment to a Creature, what different things can it do?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20925" CreationDate="2014-11-29T23:09:42.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast a card for its bestow cost; it becomes an Aura Enchantment spell; and does not act as a creature in any way. So &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nighthowler&quot;&gt;Nighthowler&lt;/a&gt; can never attack nor block while it is attached to another creature as an aura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nighthowler does not have a power or toughness while it is an aura. You add +X/+X to the enchanted creature, where X is the number of creature cards in all graveyards. This is unrelated to the fact that this is also Nighthowler's strength when Nighthowler is a creature; it's simply because it says that that is the enchanted creature's strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No, Nighthowler cannot attack nor block while it is an aura enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature that Nighthowler is enchanting leaves the battlefield, Nighthowler will become a regular creature on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T00:43:47.687" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T00:43:47.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T07:45:21.550" Score="7" ViewCount="2881" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say Player 1 has just finished playing all their trains and everyone is now taking their final turn. Suppose Player 2 completed all their routes on their previous turn. Is Player 2 still required pick up 3 new destination cards and keep at least 1? Doing so will cost Player 2 points unless Player 2 had previously completed one of these new routes earlier in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be possible in this situation to allow Player 2 to pick up 3 new destination cards and have the option of discarding all three of them should they find keeping any would cost them points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10100" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2020-09-08T17:06:01.197" LastActivityDate="2020-09-08T17:06:01.197" Title="If a player completes all their routes, are they required to pick up new destination cards even if the game is almost finished?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20928" CreationDate="2014-11-30T09:57:02.477" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules (available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/europe/rules/&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) you are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; required to pick new destination cards when you complete the ones in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 can simply perform one of the other actions for his last turn, e.g. drawing train cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T09:57:02.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20660" CreationDate="2014-11-30T15:59:00.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add the robot's VP chips and tableau VPs, scoring each 6-cost development card or counter as 6 or 9 VPs, depending on the selected game difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Galactic Federation, as well as any other such development card, will always count for 6 or 9 VPs.  Don't try to count based on the contents of the tableau.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T15:59:00.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-11-30T16:53:18.460" Score="1" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dismember&quot;&gt;Dismember&lt;/a&gt; (A black spell), targeting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241990&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autumn's Veil&lt;/a&gt;, will the effect counters my opponent's spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2061" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T22:45:04.897" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T07:59:10.063" Title="Casting Autumn Veil in response to opponent targeting my creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20931" CreationDate="2014-11-30T16:55:46.347" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Autumn's Veil's effect will cause Dismember's target to be invalid, which means that it will be countered by the rules when it tries to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, Autumn's Veil creates an effect that says that your creatures can't be targeted by blue or black spells. Then Dismember tries to resolve, but it no longer has a legal target, so it is countered. This is caused by &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 608.2b&lt;/a&gt;, part of the rules about resolving spells and abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal.&lt;/strong&gt; A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &quot;target,&quot; are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T07:59:10.063" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T07:59:10.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20935" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:41:23.373" Score="0" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HCYZy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I play Nylea's Emissary and decide to not pay its Bestow cost, does that mean that it is a 6/6 Enchantment Creature with Trample? Does the enchanted creature spell only work if I pay the Bestow cost to enchant another creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:37:46.873" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:37:46.873" Title="Can Enchantment Creature play its enchanted ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4043" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:49:53.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are happy to make the handicap explicit then victory points are a good way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increase the threshold the better player needs to reach in order to win. I am experimenting with this playing with my son who is 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that victory point increases are not linear (ie gaining an extra point when you have 10 points is a lot easier than when at 2 points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the moment I play with a 3 point handicap, other adults playing have a 1 point handicap and the kids are at zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I win by double or more the score of an opponent I increase my handicap by 2, if I win by 3 points or more then I increase it by 1 and if I lose by 2 points or more I decrease it by 1. I figure I will find a good balance point&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10103" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T17:49:53.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20933" CreationDate="2014-11-30T17:51:04.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Close, but not quite. Bestow is an alternative way of casting the card, once you choose to cast it not for its Bestow cost it is a regular 3/3 Enchantment Creature with Trample (It isn't enchanting itself so it doesn't get +3/+3 from its ability). There is no way to attach it to a creature once you have cast it as a Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102.&lt;/strong&gt; Bestow  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102a&lt;/strong&gt; Bestow represents two static abilities, one that functions while the card with bestow is on the stack and another that functions both while it’s on the stack and while it’s on the battlefield. “Bestow [cost]” means “You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.” and “If you chose to pay this spell’s bestow cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature. These effects last until one of two things happens: this spell has an illegal target as it resolves or the permanent this spell becomes, becomes unattached.” Paying a card’s bestow cost follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102b&lt;/strong&gt; If a spell’s controller chooses to pay its bestow cost, that player chooses a legal target for that Aura spell as defined by its enchant creature ability and rule 601.2c. See also rule 303.4.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102c&lt;/strong&gt; A spell’s controller can’t choose to pay its bestow cost unless that player can choose a legal target for that spell after it becomes an Aura spell.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102d&lt;/strong&gt; As an Aura spell with bestow begins resolving, if its target is illegal, the effect making it an Aura spell ends. It continues resolving as a creature spell and will be put onto the battlefield under the control of the spell’s controller. This is an exception to rule 608.3a.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.102e&lt;/strong&gt; If an Aura with bestow is attached to an illegal object or player, it becomes unattached. This is an exception to rule 704.5n.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T18:25:21.230" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T18:25:21.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20928" CreationDate="2014-11-30T20:29:06.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, definitely not. You are never required to draw Destinations Tickets except during setup. It seems to me you don't realize one can claim routes even without Destination Tickets&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. There's a good chance P2 might have the Train Cards to claim a one- or two-train route for the one or two points it gives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If P2 can't claim any routes, then they should draw some Train Cards. While P2 could draw Destinations Tickets hoping to draw one they have already completed, that's far too likely to cost them points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've played games where I've kept my Destination Tickets to a minimum to focus on getting Stockholm-Petrograd (21 points) and Budapest-Kyiv (15 points).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-11-30T20:42:10.030" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T20:42:10.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20937" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-11-30T20:38:37.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; mechanic from Theros block that lets one play an Enchantment Creature as an Aura. Please also tag &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;magic-the-gathering&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-01-02T15:23:03.180" LastActivityDate="2020-01-02T15:23:03.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20938" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-11-30T20:38:37.300" Score="0" Body="A *Magic: The Gathering* mechanic from Theros block that lets one play an Enchantment Creature as an Aura. Please also tag [magic-the-gathering]." OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T10:03:17.230" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T10:03:17.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="20939" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20940" CreationDate="2014-11-30T22:06:08.877" Score="5" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://czechgames.com/files/Tzolkin_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; of the board game Tzolk'in state (page 4, bottom left): &quot;Give the Starting Player Marker to the player who most recently sacrificed something.  In case of a tie, give the Starting Player Marker to the player who volunteers for the next sacrifice.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question: What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably this is a joke?  (But then, who starts the game?)  Or does this refer to some part of the game which I haven't discovered yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10104" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-23T15:27:00.380" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T13:45:15.183" Title="What is the meaning of the starting player rules in Tzolk'in?" Tags="|tzolkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20939" CreationDate="2014-11-30T22:25:27.113" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a joke, referencing the fact that many games these days have means of determining a starting player that are somewhat arbitrarily related to the theme of the game but where there's nothing stopping you from choosing the starting player however you like. For example, the player with the pointiest ears is meant to be the start player for Small World, while Chrononauts has everyone guess the time and the person closest to the truth gets to start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-11-30T22:25:27.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20943" CreationDate="2014-12-01T13:53:43.547" Score="2" ViewCount="1061" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering about the following scenario:&#xA;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Punishment&quot;&gt;Leyline of Punishment&lt;/a&gt; on board.&#xA;My opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Auriok%20Champion&quot;&gt;Auriok Champion&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the gods&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the damage from the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt; still come through? As far as I'm aware, prevention by DEBT (Damage, Enchant/Equip, Block, Target) prohibits the damage according to rule 702.16e:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.16e. Any damage that would be dealt by sources that have the stated quality to a permanent or player with protection is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Punishment&quot;&gt;Leyline of Punishment&lt;/a&gt; says damage can't be prevented. Or does the prevention by protection has priority over &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Punishment&quot;&gt;Leyline of Punishment&lt;/a&gt;? If so, by what rule is this applied?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10072" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T03:40:12.823" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T03:40:12.823" Title="Protection, damage and Leyline of Punishment" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20942" CreationDate="2014-12-01T13:56:36.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Champion will end up getting destroyed by the Anger of the Gods because of this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.2.&lt;/strong&gt; When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &quot;can't&quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have the Champion saying damage can be prevented, and the Leyline saying it can't be prevented so it isn't prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T13:56:36.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20944" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20947" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:20:18.770" Score="2" ViewCount="3730" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; to gain control of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pelakka%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Pelakka Wurm&lt;/a&gt; then sacrifices it who will draw the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10108" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-12-02T02:02:12.940" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T04:31:51.747" Title="Who draws a card if my opponent has stolen control of Pelakka Wurm when it dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20944" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:28:14.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent takes control of Pelakka Wurm and it dies while they control it, they draw the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing to note is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Additional)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 700.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Wurm's ability is equivalent to &amp;quot;When Pelakka Wurm is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, draw a card.&amp;quot; This is a triggered ability, and specifically, it is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;leaves-the-battlefield ability&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; (rule 603.6c):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6c&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone&lt;/strong&gt;, or when a phased-in permanent leaves the game because its owner leaves the game. &lt;strong&gt;These are written as&lt;/strong&gt;, but aren't limited to, &amp;quot;When [this object] leaves the battlefield, ...&amp;quot; or &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, ...&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; An ability that attempts to do something to the card that left the battlefield checks for it only in the first zone that it went to. An ability that triggers when a card is put into a certain zone &amp;quot;from anywhere&amp;quot; is never treated as a leaves-the-battlefield ability, even if an object is put into that zone from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6d&lt;/strong&gt;. Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane &lt;strong&gt;will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward&lt;/strong&gt;. The game has to &amp;quot;look back in time&amp;quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when the Wurm dies, it looks at its existence before it died to determine how the ability triggers. Specifically, when the Wurm was last on the battlefield, your opponent controlled it, so they control the ability and draw the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T04:31:51.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20944" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:29:21.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The person who controlled it with Act of Treason when it died will draw the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What matters is the state that Pelakka Wurm was in when it was last on the battlefield, so it matters whose control it was under then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to “look back in time” to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T19:29:21.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20944" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:32:00.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent would draw the card. When an ability triggers, what matters is who controlled the object with the ability (in this case the Pelakka Wurm) when it triggered. With &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot; triggers, what matters is who controlled it just before it died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.8.&lt;/strong&gt; The controller of an activated ability on the stack is the player who activated it. &lt;strong&gt;The controller of a triggered ability on the stack&lt;/strong&gt; (other than a delayed triggered ability) &lt;strong&gt;is the player who controlled the ability's source when it triggered&lt;/strong&gt;, or, if it had no controller, the player who owned the ability's source when it triggered. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6d&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane &lt;strong&gt;will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to “look back in time” to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T17:44:32.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:39:17.977" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play a Bazaar and bid though the pieces do the pieces still cause their stuff?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more specific, lets start with Wheel of fortune, if one of the Bazaar pieces has a Fortune mark to move the pig, does that happen when the piece came from a winning bazaar bid?  I know extra Bazaars do not cause another.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the Builder, I put my won piece on a feature with the builder, I get another turn right?  and when does that happen, immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess this question is looking more like &quot;Once the bidding is done for a Bazaar does play act like each placement is a normal turn (except for any won bazaars)?  And if so what happens if on a 'second' turn another Bazaar shows up before all the others are played?  Still ignore it until all original bazaar wins have been played and play goes back to normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T21:48:59.353" Title="Carcassonne Bazaars and other expansions after the bid" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20950" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:47:47.760" Score="3" ViewCount="392" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Switcheroo&quot;&gt;Switcheroo&lt;/a&gt; targeting my 3/3 and his 1/1 and I immediately cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shock&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; to kill his 1/1 will he still gain control of my 3/3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10108" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-01T20:42:56.293" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T20:42:56.293" Title="Exchanging control of creatures that have since left the battlefield" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20949" CreationDate="2014-12-01T19:53:12.593" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, per the Gatherer Ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one of the target creatures is an illegal target when Switcheroo resolves, the exchange won't happen. If both creatures are illegal targets, Switcheroo will be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because in order to preform an exchange there must actually be something to exchange, you aren't allowed to exchange something for nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.8a&lt;/strong&gt; A spell or ability may instruct players to exchange something (for example, life totals or control of two permanents) as part of its resolution. When such a spell or ability resolves, if the entire exchange can’t be completed, no part of the exchange occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-01T19:53:12.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20953" CreationDate="2014-12-02T19:59:40.820" Score="1" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game about 5 to 8 years ago with the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The deck was similar to a Skip-Bo deck (Numbered cards with no suits)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player was dealt a hand and 4 &quot;piles&quot; were created&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On each round the players would each secretly bid a card and reveal it all at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting with the (don't remember either highest or lowest card), you get to play your card in increasing numbers on one of the 4 stacks.  If you cannot play, you have to keep your card.  Object to to clear through all cards in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10115" LastEditorUserId="10115" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T20:46:48.017" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T20:46:48.017" Title="Help Determining a Card Game w/ 4 Stacks and Hidden Card Bidding" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20952" CreationDate="2014-12-02T20:59:55.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I belive the game is 6 Nimmt! Each card has a big picture of a bullhead on it and it seems to fit the description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the rules from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamecabinet.com/sumoRulesBank/Take6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.gamecabinet.com/sumoRulesBank/Take6.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6 Nimmt! (Take 6)&#xA;  Translated by Michael Schloth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Goal&#xA;  Take no cards. If you must take cards, take as few Cattle Heads as you can. Each Cattle Head is worth (- 1) point. The winner is the player who at the end of the game has taken the least number of Cattle Heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Preparation&#xA;  You'll need paper and a pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuffle the deck and deal each player ten cards. The players keep their cards secret and they should arrange them numerically. Four cards are taken from the deck and placed face up on the table. Each of the four cards is the first card in a row. Each row may never contain more than 5 cards. The illustration (Abb.1) on page 2 shows the 4 rows at the start of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Course of the Game&#xA;  Part I: Playing Cards&#xA;  All players choose one of the cards from their hand and place it face down before themselves. They are revealed at the same time. Whoever played the lowest card goes first. That player places his card into one of the four rows, then the player who played the next higher card places his card into one of the four rows etc. until all players have placed their chosen cards. The cards are always placed in a row side by side. This process is repeated until all players have played their 10 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How are cards played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rule 1. : Ascending Numerical Order&#xA;  The card to be placed in a row must be greater than the last card already placed in the row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rule 2. : Lowest Difference&#xA;  The value of a row is the numerical value of the last card in the row. If a card may be placed in more than one row (by Rule 1.), then compare its numerical value to the value of each eligible row. The row with the closest value gets the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: (page 3)&#xA;  The last cards in the four rows are 12, 37, 43, and 58. Four players play the following cards: 14, 15, 44, and 61. The &quot;14&quot; card is lowest and so is placed first. By Rule 1, it can only be placed in the first row next to the &quot;12&quot;. For the same reason, the &quot;15&quot; must be placed next to the &quot;14&quot;. The &quot;44&quot;, by Rule 1, may be placed at the end of rows 1, 2, or 3. However, because of Rule 2 it must be placed in the third row next to the &quot;43&quot;. The &quot;61&quot; is then placed in the fourth row for the same reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Abb. 2: Shows the 4 rows after the first round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Part II: Taking Cards&#xA;  Each of the four rows may hold only 5 cards maximum. What happens when a row must receive a sixth card? What happens when a card needs to be placed but it is lower than the last card of all four rows? In both cases the player will have to take cards because of the last two rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rule 3.: Full Row&#xA;  A row has 5 cards and a player, whether by Rule 1 or by Rule 2, must place the sixth card in the row. That player must take all five cards from the row and his sixth card now becomes the new first card for that row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: (page 4.)&#xA;  The same four players now choose the following cards to play: 21, 26, 30, and 36. The &quot;21&quot; and the &quot;26&quot; are placed in the first row after the previously placed &quot;15&quot;. The first row now has 5 cards. The next card to be placed is the &quot;30&quot;. By rule 1, it too must be placed in the first row after the &quot;26&quot;. Because this will give the first row six cards, the player takes cards &quot;12&quot;, &quot;14&quot;, &quot;15&quot;, &quot;21&quot;, and &quot;26&quot;. He places his &quot;30&quot; as the first card in the first row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &quot;36&quot; is then placed in the first row after the &quot;30&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rule 4.: Lowest Card&#xA;  Whoever plays a card that is too low to be placed at the end of any of the rows must take cards. That player selects any one of the rows and takes all of the cards from that row. His card now becomes the first card in the row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example (page 5.):&#xA;  The same players now choose the following cards: 3, 9, 68, and 83. The &quot;3&quot; is the lowest so it must be played first. It is too low to be placed at the end of any of the rows. To make it fit, the player of the &quot;3&quot; must take one of the rows. He decides to take the second row as it contains only one card. The &quot;3&quot; is now the new start card for the second row. Next the &quot;9&quot; must be placed. This player is lucky as now it can be safely placed next to the &quot;3&quot;. The &quot;68&quot; and the &quot;83&quot; are both placed in the fourth row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember: When a player must take a row because his card was too low to fit any of the rows, that player decides which row to take. As you do not want to take Cattle Heads if you can help it, you will usually take the row that has the least number of Cattle Heads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;HORNS = NEGATIVE POINTS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each card has a certain number of Cattle Heads (from 1 to 7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;All Cards have at least 1 Cattle Head.&#xA;Cards with values that end in &quot;5&quot; have 2 Cattle Heads.&#xA;Cards with values that end in &quot;0&quot; have 3 Cattle Heads.&#xA;Cards with values that are multiples of 11 have 5 Cattle heads.&#xA;Card value &quot;55&quot; is both a multiple of 11 and ends in &quot;5&quot;. It has 7 Cattle Heads. &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player keeps the cards they had to take because of Rules 3 and 4 separate from the cards they are trying to place into the four rows. These &quot;Take&quot; cards make up your &quot;Horn Pile&quot;. (I guess because you are being gored by them?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When all players have played their 10 cards, the round is over. Each player counts the number of Cattle Heads in their &quot;Horn Pile&quot; and the scorekeeper records the amount. All of the cards are gathered and reshuffled. Each player is dealt 10 cards and another round is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game is over when one or more players reach 66 Cattle Heads. The player with the least number of Cattle heads wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Game Tips&#xA;  Example 1&#xA;  This example emphasizes the point of Rule 2. You MUST place your card using the Least Difference rule. Here the player needs to place &quot;45&quot; and would love to place it at the end of the third row but Rule 2 forces him to place it in the fourth row as the sixth card. He must take up the fourth row into his &quot;Horn Pile&quot;.&#xA;  Example 2&#xA;  This example emphasizes the point that you should not take anything for granted. Player 1 chose &quot;62&quot; to place thinking that it would be an easy placement in the first row. Unfortunately for him, Player 2 chose &quot;29&quot; to place. As &quot;29&quot; is lower than any of the last cards in any of the rows, player 2 must take one of the rows. He selects the first row. Now Player 1 has lost his safe play. &quot;29&quot; is the last card in the first row so by Rule 2 player 2 must place his &quot;62&quot; in the already full fourth row and take that row into his &quot;Horn Pile&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Variant&#xA;  All previous rules hold. There are two new ones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;All players will know exactly what cards will be in the round. The rule is: Cards in the Round = ((# of players) x 10) + 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 Players&#xA;      Use Cards 1 through 34. &#xA;  4 players&#xA;      use cards 1 through 44. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Each player takes his own 10 cards himself. The cards are turned face up and spread on the table. In turn, each player takes one card. When everyone has 10 cards, there will be 4 cards left. These 4 cards are the start cards for the 4 rows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're still not sure if this is it or the rules seem confusing you can play it online here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.onlinebrettspiele.de/6nimmt/Default.asp?l=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.onlinebrettspiele.de/6nimmt/Default.asp?l=en&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2014-12-02T20:59:55.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-02T23:12:20.260" Score="4" ViewCount="3516" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose my opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nahiri%2C%20the%20Lithomancer&quot;&gt;Nahiri, the Lithomancer&lt;/a&gt; and an equipment card on the battlefield, then uses Nahiri's +2 ability to create a 1/1 soldier and attach the equip to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+2: Put a 1/1 white Kor Soldier creature token onto the battlefield. You may attach an Equipment you control to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to cast an instant that would kill the soldier before the equipment is equipped, or does the entire action happen at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6924" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T09:19:13.517" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T13:42:23.837" Title="Can I cast an instant in the middle of an ability resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20954" CreationDate="2014-12-02T23:21:18.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It isn't possible. While the creation of the solider and the attaching of the equipment aren't simultaneous&lt;sup&gt;[CR 608.2c]&lt;/sup&gt;, you do not get priority (the permission to cast instants and other actions) in the middle of the resolution of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.2e Resolving spells and abilities may instruct players to make choices or take actions, or may allow players to activate mana abilities. Even if a player is doing so, no player has priority while a spell or ability is resolving. See rule 608, “Resolving Spells and Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An existing &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/chk/en/133.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Night of Souls' Betrayal&lt;/a&gt; would temporarily make the Soldier a 0/0, but it wouldn't kill it if an Equipment boosting toughness is attached to the Soldier by the ability. It survives because State-Based Actions (what moves a creature with non-positive toughness to the graveyard) aren't performed in the middle of the resolution of spells either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even when you can cast a spell in the middle of a spell's or ability's resolution, as possible with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Epic%20Experiment&quot;&gt;Epic Experiment&lt;/a&gt;, it will still resolve when the stack unwinds as normal, not in the middle of the resolution of a spell or ability. For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Epic Experiment with X=2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instants can be cast here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epic Experiment resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You exile Shock and a Mountain from your library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Shock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the Mountain in your graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instants can be cast here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shock resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T13:42:23.837" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T13:42:23.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12947" CreationDate="2014-12-03T06:47:16.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Redemption rulebook:  In the detailed Hero Wins section:  &quot; your opponent&#xA;must select and surrender to you one available Lost Soul from his Land of Bondage. &quot;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cactusgamedesign.com/downloads/rules_4th_edition_final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(Redemption Rules)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it's always your opponents choice, this card is valuable in situations where the Lost Soul you rescue matters.   It allows the Hero to choose instead of the Evil opponent.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3215" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T06:47:16.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20957" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20966" CreationDate="2014-12-03T14:03:46.503" Score="7" ViewCount="2831" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a big fan of Carcassonne and have a most of the expansions available in my language. One of the only expansions I don't play, at all, is The Tower. In my opinion, the ability to remove followers is too powerful and only incites retaliation. The cost of blocking this tower is too high, since you're losing one of your followers for the remainder of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I look at reviews on the game, most people feel the same. I'm wondering if there are ways to work around these restrictions. Right now I'm just using the tiles without using the tower pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does everyone deal with this? Is there a way to counterweight the towers' impact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2019-05-22T18:05:07.600" Title="How to make The Tower less of a pain in Carcassonne" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20959" CreationDate="2014-12-03T14:09:04.417" Score="3" ViewCount="1381" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a bonus tile with a +1 river shipping distance. On the official rules on appendix IV: bonus tiles, talking about the shipping half of the tile it reads (translated from Spanish) 'Moreover, your distance shipping value adds 1 during second phase. On last round, it doesn't counts on final point count'. It seemed quite clear untill we actually played it. The question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the uses of this tile means you add +1 automatically without investing resources?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this implies you must use one of your phase 2 actions in order to use it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of gaming balance on our gaming group, we have established the house rule that you must use the first action on phase 2 using this tile, so you add the +1 for free. &#xA;But, there's an official position about using an action or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6918" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T18:11:41.433" Title="How works exactly the bonus tile that gives you '+1 river shipping'" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20958" CreationDate="2014-12-03T16:14:46.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tile simply gives you 1 more shipping value than you have from your shipping track for that round. So if you haven't upgraded your shipping at all, so you have 0 shipping, then for that round, you can dig and build in places that you can reach with 1 shipping. It does NOT advance your shipping track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-03T18:11:41.433" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T18:11:41.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20957" CreationDate="2014-12-03T16:46:40.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, we had the same problem and solved that making the tower only as a point generation rule. What we did was, the player play the tower base tile and if he/she will, can put only in the tower foundation turn a tower piece and a meeple, the meeple can't leave the board, only once by turn the player can rise one of his / hers towers, at the end of the game, as many floors have the tower, the player have points by tiles up-down-right-left to the tower tile, by example, at the end of the game a tower will have 5 floors, but are 6 tiles up, 3 down, 5 left and 4 right, that tower punctuation is 5+3+5+4 = 17 points to the player final score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T16:46:40.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2014-12-03T16:50:34.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's like a nolanism and we had the same problem, or house rule is that the rule only applies only the first time and do not make a chain reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T16:50:34.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13197" CreationDate="2014-12-03T18:34:23.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, when you cast the planeswalker, you have priority when it enters the battlefield.  With priority, you can activate one of it's abilities (putting that ability on the stack) before any other player can put something on the stack.  At this point, even if someone destroys your planeswalker, it's ability will still resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, planeswalker abilities are sorcery speed.  If, at the point in time the planeswalker enters the battlefield, it is not your main phase and/or the stack is not empty, you will not be able to put one of its abilities on the stack right away and other players may target it with instant speed removal before you can use one of it's abilities.  Some situations in which this could happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast the planeswalker either not as the bottom thing on the stack and/or not during one of your main phases (such as through &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Orrery&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something triggered when the planeswalker entered the battlefield, such as due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbound%20Crusher&quot;&gt;Arcbound Crusher&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You try to do something else first, such as use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gilder%20Bairn&quot;&gt;Gilder Bairn&lt;/a&gt; on the planeswalker]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another exception is if the ability requires the planeswalker to function.  If the &lt;code&gt;+0&lt;/code&gt; ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%20Jura&quot;&gt;Gideon Jura&lt;/a&gt; is used and he is targeted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hero%27s%20Downfall&quot;&gt;Hero&amp;#39;s Downfall&lt;/a&gt; in response, the ability won't do anything on resolution because Gideon is no longer on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exception to some of the exceptions: if you have the emblem from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teferi%2C%20Temporal%20Archmage&quot;&gt;Teferi, Temporal Archmage&lt;/a&gt;, you can use one of a planeswalker's abilities in response to someone trying to destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exception to that exception: you will not be able to respond with a planeswalker ability to removal with &lt;code&gt;Split Second&lt;/code&gt; such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wipe%20Away&quot;&gt;Wipe Away&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T18:34:23.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20974" CreationDate="2014-12-03T19:01:53.570" Score="2" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt; with 20 loyalty counters.  I have exiled an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; with Karn.  I activate Karn's &lt;code&gt;-14&lt;/code&gt; ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;−14: Restart the game, leaving in exile all non-Aura permanent cards exiled with Karn Liberated. Then put those cards onto the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response, my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beast%20Within&quot;&gt;Beast Within&lt;/a&gt; targeting Karn to destroy him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the game is restarted, do I have Emrakul?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cards stop tracking other cards when they change zones, does Karn's ability use the cards that were tracked by Karn when the ability was activated or when the ability resolves?  If it is the later, then presumably the same thing happens when Karn's ability is activated when he has exactly 14 loyalty counters and is destroyed as a result of the activation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if Karn is targeted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flicker&quot;&gt;Flicker&lt;/a&gt; instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T17:35:01.693" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T17:35:01.693" Title="Behavior of Linked Abilities if their Source Object Changes Zones" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20957" CreationDate="2014-12-03T20:43:17.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We rarely play with either the Tower or the Dragon, mostly because neither my wife or I like having to worry about 'randomly' losing our Meeple like that. and of course the fact that to stop the tower, you have to sacrifice another piece.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But your question got me thinking, so my idea is to add extra Meeple to each player.  I have two whole sets of Meeple, but you could add them in depending on the number of people playing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 18 tiles with tower places so if playing a 2 person game, add 6-7 extra Meeple, 6 person game 2-3.  The closer you want it to be toward game design the fewer extra Meeple you add in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 players = 6-7 extra Meeple&#xA;3 players = 5-6&#xA;4 players = 4-5&#xA;5 players = 3-4&#xA;6 players = 2-3 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T20:43:17.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20963" CreationDate="2014-12-03T21:13:10.897" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Karn] is destroyed as a result of the activation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if Karn is destroyed. Once activated, an ability exists independently of its source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;112.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. [...]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards stop tracking other cards when they change zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards never track cards; only effects and abilities can &quot;track&quot; cards, and only under specific circumstances. This is one of those circumstances specifically allowed by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;607.2a&lt;/strong&gt; If an object has an activated ability printed on it that instructs a player to exile one or more cards and an ability printed on it that refers either to cards “exiled with [this object],” these abilities are linked. The second ability refers only to cards in the exile zone that were put there as a result of an instruction to exile them in the first ability.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it couldn't do this, the ability would never work. There is no rule that says &quot;If the source changes zones, linked abilities suddenly stop working.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So we've established that the ability doesn't disappear, and that it can act on the cards that were exiled by (now destroyed) Karn. As you can see, there's no mention of checking if Karn still exists. There's no rule causing the cards to forget they were exiled by Karn either. All that matters is that Emrakul was exiled by the source of the ability. Therefore, in all of the situations described, you get an Emrakul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T15:50:15.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T15:50:15.697" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20948" CreationDate="2014-12-03T21:48:59.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules for &lt;strong&gt;Bridges, Castles and Bazaars&lt;/strong&gt; you can find the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once all tiles have been claimed, the players will each place their tile (and a follower, if they&#xA;  wish) in clockwise order from the player to the left of the active player. No follower may be&#xA;  placed on the bazaar itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on it's said that there can be no chain reactions, that there can be only one bazaar round in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the Dutch rules it says (translated):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After all land tiles have been claimed, all players execute a normal turn where, instead of drawing a land tile, they place the recently acquired land tile in clockwise order from the player to the left of the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means something else entirely. By the English rules I would assume everything happens within the same turn. By the Dutch rules, suddenly you have many different turns triggered by the Bazaar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked the German rules as well, they seem to be in line with the English rules. So I'm going with those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say you can place the tile you acquired, and a follower if you wish. Followers do not include builders, pigs and the like, so strictly I don't think you should be allowed to place those. Also, building onto a road or city that has the builder on it only gives you another turn if you are the active player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a yet later turn, he places a tile that extends or completes the road with his builder on it.&#xA;  After &lt;strong&gt;completing his turn&lt;/strong&gt; (placing a follower and scoring), he draws and places a 2nd tile as&#xA;  normal, including a follower if he wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure about the Wheel of Fortune, haven't played it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T21:48:59.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20598" CreationDate="2014-12-03T23:36:19.920" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says it in the spell description. On page 15 of the Nagash book each spell states what type can be summoned and can only be &quot;selected from the Undead Legioins army list (page 20).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10120" LastActivityDate="2014-12-03T23:36:19.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T03:40:44.947" Score="1" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the underlying assumption with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Stirrings&quot;&gt;Hive Stirrings&lt;/a&gt; is that the Sliver tokens come into play under your control. However, I am building a random standard Polymorph deck (random standard is like t2 but sets are picked randomly) which could also use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defense%20of%20the%20Heart&quot;&gt;Defense of the Heart&lt;/a&gt; as a 4-8 copy of polymorph if I could give my opponent the slivers instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me to some kind of reasoning/ruling behind which player the tokens come out under because to me this seems like kind of an oversight on the part of the card creators by not being specific enough with the card wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8566" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T15:01:43.053" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T15:01:43.053" Title="When something is put into play, who controls it and why?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-04T03:54:55.793" Score="5" ViewCount="16927" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to creatures under the influence of &amp;quot;Target creature you control &lt;strong&gt;fights&lt;/strong&gt; target creature you don't control&amp;quot;, are they, or the initiating creature, considered &amp;quot;attacking&amp;quot;?&#xA;In my specific scenario, I played a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Punch&quot;&gt;Savage Punch&lt;/a&gt;, targeting my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Summit%20Prowler&quot;&gt;Summit Prowler&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Longshot%20Squad&quot;&gt;Longshot Squad&lt;/a&gt;. She then played the instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kill%20Shot&quot;&gt;Kill Shot&lt;/a&gt;, which reads &amp;quot;Destroy target &lt;strong&gt;attacking&lt;/strong&gt; creature.&amp;quot;, targeting my Prowler and therefore the stack resolves making my Savage Punch null.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I guess all in all, does the keyword 'attacking' change this at all or was this a correct resolution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10121" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T03:59:51.210" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T18:28:59.777" Title="Is &quot;Fighting&quot; considered &quot;attacking&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20971" CreationDate="2014-12-04T03:58:21.580" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, attacking has nothing to do with &quot;fighting&quot;; the only similarity between the 2 is that they both involve creatures dealing damage. A creature is only considered an &quot;attacking&quot; creature if it is declared as an attacker during the combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1j Each chosen creature still controlled by the active player becomes an attacking creature. It remains an attacking creature until it's removed from combat or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, your opponent was not allowed to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that neither creature in this situation is &quot;initiating&quot; anything. You as the player who cast Savage Punch initiated the &quot;fight&quot;, but there's no difference between your creature and your opponent's creature in terms of one of them being the &quot;attacker&quot; and one the &quot;defender&quot;. They are simply both creatures that were targeted for the fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that even though a fight causes creatures to deal damage to each other, this damage is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;combat damage&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.10d The damage dealt when a creature fights isn’t combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-04T04:10:35.373" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T04:10:35.373" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20970" CreationDate="2014-12-04T04:05:13.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tokens will always come into play under your control, you cannot choose otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.2a If an effect instructs a player to put an object onto the battlefield, that object enters the&#xA;  battlefield under that player’s control unless the effect states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5a A token is both owned and controlled by the player under whose control it entered the&#xA;  battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T04:05:13.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20963" CreationDate="2014-12-04T14:05:07.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of saying this is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an ability knows of an object, and that object is moved, the ability henceforth considers that object to have ceased to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's take a look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20on%20Impulse&quot;&gt;Act on Impulse&lt;/a&gt;. This Sorcery's ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exile the top three cards of your library. Until end of turn, you may play cards exiled this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Act on Impulse to let you cast the cards in exile, it must know about them (or else it would never work). According to CR 400.7, the cards exiled by Act on Impulse are brand new objects in exile unrelated to the objects that previously existed in the library. So how does Act on Impulse know of the cards in exile? It's not one of the exceptions of CR 400.7. &lt;strong&gt;Act on Impulse can see the cards in exile because it's the one that created those objects.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something similar is happening here. For &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karn%20Liberated&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;'s ultimate to be able to put the exiled cards on the battlefield, it must know about them (or else it would never work). So how does Karn's ultimate know of the cards in exile? &lt;strong&gt;Karn Liberated's ultimate can see the cards in exile because it's linked with the abilities that created those objects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[CR 607.2a]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, your question comes down to two simple questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does Karn's ultimate on the stack continue to exist after Karn ceases to exist?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;sup&gt;[CR 112.7a]&lt;/sup&gt;. This is explicitly spelled out in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does Karn's ultimate see the objects exiled by Karn's other abilities?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;sup&gt;[CR 607.2a]&lt;/sup&gt; (assuming they never left exile&lt;sup&gt;[CR 400.7]&lt;/sup&gt;). If it didn't, it would never work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, Karn's ultimate is able to bring back Emrakul even if Karn ceases to exist before the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, CR 400.7 doesn't even come into play in your scenarioes. CR 400.7 would come into play if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Wish&quot;&gt;Living Wish&lt;/a&gt; was used to remove Emrakul from exile. If someone did that, Karn's ultimate would not be able to return Emrakul to the battlefield because the object created in exile by the linked ability no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this clears up your confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;607.2a If an object has an activated or triggered ability printed on it that instructs a player to exile one or more cards and an ability printed on it that refers either to “the exiled cards” or to cards “exiled with [this object],” these abilities are linked. The second ability refers only to cards in the exile zone that were put there as a result of an instruction to exile them in the first ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T04:16:11.107" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T04:16:11.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20971" CreationDate="2014-12-04T17:12:50.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fighting is a different thing than attacking.  So, the short answer is, &quot;No, fighting is not considered attacking.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Fight&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fight&lt;/a&gt; is a special keyword, that means, &quot;This creatures deals damage equal to its power to target creature. That creature deals damage equal to its power to this creature.&quot;  In particular, this &quot;fight&quot; occurs outside of the normal combat mechanics of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the second part of your question, no, you did not resolve things correctly.  Here is what should have happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your main phase, prior to combat you play a Savage Punch, targeting your Summit Prowler and your opponent's Longshot Squad.  [I'm assuming Longshot Squad has no +1/+1 counters on it.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, Savage Punch is on the stack.  Your opponent then attempts to cast Kill Shot.  Because there is no valid target for Kill Shot, this is an invalid play.  You can follow the official rules for how you handle invalid actions, or house rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Savage Punch resolves, and LongShot squad dies, and your Summit Prowler is 6/5 until end of turn with 3 points of damage on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: This question has been asked before here:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7504/does-fight-involve-combat&quot;&gt;Does &amp;#39;fight&amp;#39; involve combat?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-12-04T18:28:59.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20979" CreationDate="2014-12-05T00:39:00.620" Score="4" ViewCount="7512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose my opponent is tapped out while playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=207915&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt; as his commander, which has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{3}: Gain control of target Sliver. (&lt;em&gt;This effect lasts indefinitely.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my turn, I play a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389658&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rite of Replication&lt;/a&gt;, targeting his Sliver Overlord. I now have a copy of it in play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I then use the {3} ability to steal his Overlord, and then due to the Legendary rule, sacrifice the copy and retain control of his commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6924" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T13:44:04.577" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T13:44:04.577" Title="Copying and stealing an EDH Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20978" CreationDate="2014-12-05T00:48:00.713" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct. The Sliver Overlord is a Sliver so it is a legal target for the token's ability. Once you have control of it the Legend Rule kicks in. The &quot;Legend Rule&quot; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5k&lt;/strong&gt; If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners' graveyards. This is called the &quot;legend rule&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it is perfectly legal to choose the token copy of the Overlord to put into the Graveyard, and then you can proceed to kill them with their own commander. Note that you aren't 'sacrificing' the token, it is just being put into the Graveyard by state based effects. It will still 'die' and trigger anything that cares about creatures dying, but it won't trigger anything that cares about sacrificing creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T00:48:00.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20978" CreationDate="2014-12-05T03:26:28.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do that. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Commander_(format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 903&lt;/a&gt; and its subrules are the specific rules for the Commander format (also known as EDH). There is no rule that treats a Commander specially except the additional loss condition from &quot;commander damage.&quot; When a commander is on the battlefield, it's treated just like any other card. Specifically, there is no rule that says that you can't copy a commander, that you can't take control of another player's commander, or that it should be treated any differently by the legend rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T03:26:28.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20981" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-05T02:50:47.833" Score="4" ViewCount="1606" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I were playing MTG and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Imagination&quot;&gt;Archetype of Imagination&lt;/a&gt;, except he countered it. Then I countered his counter, so does my creature stay on the battlefield or go to my graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Kauffman Dartanian" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T15:14:27.593" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T16:35:21.747" Title="Counter a Counter. What happens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20981" CreationDate="2014-12-05T03:31:38.343" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your creature enters the battlefield, as though your opponent had never tried to counter it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you counter your opponent's counterspell, then their counterspell never resolves, so it never does anything to your creature spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic uses the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Stack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stack&lt;/a&gt; to resolve spells and abilities. Whenever you cast a spell, it goes on top of the stack, and everyone gets a chance to respond. If they respond with another spell or ability, it goes on top of the stack and the process starts again. If nobody responds, then the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves, and everyone gets another chance to respond to whatever is now on top. The important thing to remember here is that spells and abilities don't actually do anything until they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Counter_(keyword_action)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 701.5&lt;/a&gt; describes what countering a spell means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5.&lt;/strong&gt; Counter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5a&lt;/strong&gt; To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5b&lt;/strong&gt; The player who cast a countered spell or activated a countered ability doesn’t get a &quot;refund&quot; of any costs that were paid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that in your scenario, the sequence of actions goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast your Archetype of Imagination. The stack now looks like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Archetype of Imagination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent responds with a counterspell targeting the Archetype. The stack now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent's Counterspell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Archetype of Imagination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast a counterspell targeting your opponent's counterspell. The stack now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Counterspell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent's Counterspell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Archetype of Imagination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nobody responds, so your counterspell resolves. It counters your opponent's counterspell, which goes to their graveyard without doing anything. THe stack now looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Archetype of Imagination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Archetype resolves and enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" OwnerDisplayName="murgatroid99" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T16:35:21.747" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T16:35:21.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20984" CreationDate="2014-12-05T14:40:09.760" Score="9" ViewCount="35797" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can creatures or creature tokens be tapped for mana the turn they entered the battlefield when casting a spell with convoke or do they need haste?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, can I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Raise%20the%20Alarm&quot;&gt;Raise the Alarm&lt;/a&gt; for 2 soldier tokens, then on that same turn tap the soldiers to help pay for a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stoke%20the%20Flames&quot;&gt;Stoke the Flames&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10014" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-05T15:16:00.360" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T15:16:00.360" Title="Can creatures with summoning sickness be tapped for convoke?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2014-12-05T22:43:15.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20983" CreationDate="2014-12-05T14:48:58.720" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can. You are probably thinking of the &quot;summoning sickness rule&quot;, which does not apply here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature‘s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can‘t&#xA;  be activated unless the creature has been under its controller‘s control continuously since his or her&#xA;  most recent turn began. A creature can‘t attack unless it has been under its controller‘s control&#xA;  continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning&#xA;  sicknes&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this rule doesn't prevenet creatures for being tapped for any reason other than paying the activation cost of that creature or attacking with that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T14:48:58.720" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20983" CreationDate="2014-12-05T14:50:30.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can use creatures with summoning sickness to pay for convoke costs. Summoning sickness means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;302.6.&lt;/strong&gt; A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell using convoke is neither attacking, nor activating an ability with a tap or untap symbol in its cost. Convoke is just another way to pay for the spell in addition to tapping lands like you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while tapping the soldiers helps pay for the cost of the spell it isn't actually adding any mana to your mana pool, you tap them instead of paying mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T14:50:30.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2014-12-05T17:56:40.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really see a problem with too many option cards. With solid planning I usually need about 2-3 complete Turns to get to the next Flag, if the other players aren't actively blocking me. So if we both start, you take 2 turns to your Repair-Shop I'm already at the first flag. If you stay there for 5 more turns (and manage to just collect your option cards, without people shooting at you and without a stroke of bad cards or someone pushing you) - fine you than have 5 RANDOM option cards. I will at this time probably be at Flag 3 - where as you have to go to Flag 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure if you are lucky, maybe you get the right cards to get amazingly fast or to kill everyone else. But on small maps the racer will already be at Flag 3 of 4 or 5 and will win the game before you can get him. On a Big map he is probably too far away for you to actually get him properly with your option cards. And if you get too strong, all it takes is 3 Players ganging up on you and shooting you and your cards to hell...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8291" LastActivityDate="2014-12-05T17:56:40.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21012" CreationDate="2014-12-06T14:49:55.160" Score="1" ViewCount="2396" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between amateur and professional dan levels in go? If yes, how are they related?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8143" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T23:40:26.310" Title="Dan levels: difference between amateur and professional?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-13T15:08:00.617" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20890" CreationDate="2014-12-06T14:54:53.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://lie.math.brocku.ca/twolf/papers/semeai.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2012 paper by Thomas Wolf&lt;/a&gt;, and this was a very fast way of learning important basic counting techniques. Now, the paper is arguably not always perfectly clear, but it can be followed with a reasonable amount of effort. It also contains a simple result that had been missed before (in some circumstances, it can be beneficial to start an attack by filling the liberties shared by the competing group).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a quick look at Chapters 7 and8 of The Second Book of Go: while they give many concrete details, they still take much longer to read, and give more complex and less complete recipes than the succinct paper by Wolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8143" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T14:54:53.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2014-12-06T21:14:36.640" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Germany  first two turns ten+ infantry  after that  1 fighter plus infantry the rest of the game  it is IMPERATIVE however that you do not lose ANY fighters or your bomber  once you have 8 or 9 fighters and 1 bomber you can do whatever you like in europe  by that time japan will have eroded russia and picked off every available dollar eg. australia new zealand hawaii french madagascar and axis victory is assured as long as you avoid horrific rolling of dice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10138" LastActivityDate="2014-12-06T21:14:36.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20991" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-06T22:34:58.393" Score="0" ViewCount="912" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a creature become an artifact creature when an artifact is equipped onto it or just a creature with an artifact on it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10139" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T06:01:59.020" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T18:50:41.057" Title="Does an equipped creature become an artifact creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20994" CreationDate="2014-12-06T23:41:46.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1972" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having issues understanding how a possible turn would go which I'll try to explain best I can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I currently had two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlewise%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Battlewise Hoplite&lt;/a&gt;s currently on the board. One of them currently has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt; but the other does not. This would mean that the first which has the enchantment would have two +1/+1 counters currently. The first for its Heroic ability and another due to Hardened Scales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now say that I decide that I want to play an additional Hardened Scales to the other Battlewise that isn't enchanted and is still a 2/2? I'm unclear how two Hardened scales on the board at the same time would resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm still pretty new to magic so excuse me if I'm using wrong terminology!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T22:28:50.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T22:28:50.670" Title="Double Hardened Scales" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-heroic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20993" CreationDate="2014-12-06T23:47:18.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not all enchantments attach to a creature (or any kind of permanent). In general, enchantments just sit on the battlefield like artifacts. &lt;em&gt;Auras&lt;/em&gt; are special types of enchantments that &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; attach to things. They have a type line that says &quot;Enchantment - Aura&quot; and an ability in the text box that says &quot;Enchant [object],&quot; which means that it attaches to objects with the given description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardened Scales doesn't target, and it doesn't just affect just one creature. As long as it's on the battlefield, any time you would put any number of +1/+1 counters on &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; creature you control, you also put an extra +1/+1 counter on that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had two copies of Hardened Scales, every time you put +1/+1 counters on one of your creatures, each of the abilities modifies what happens and you add two extra counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T20:54:11.940" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T20:54:11.940" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20997" CreationDate="2014-12-07T01:28:25.423" Score="2" ViewCount="1535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two closely-related questions regarding &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Djinn%20of%20Infinite%20Deceits&quot;&gt;Djinn of Infinite Deceits&lt;/a&gt;.  I think I understand how both of these cases work, but my rules-fu is rusty and I'd love the opinion of the experts here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Case 1:  A permanent control effect, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt;.  If I use the Djinn to give away a creature that I have enchanted with Control Magic, which reads &amp;quot;You control enchanted creature.&amp;quot;, what happens?  My understanding is that after the Djinn's ability finishes resolving, states would update and Control Magic would cause the creature I gave away to return to my control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Case 2:  An ongoing control effect, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rubinia%20Soulsinger&quot;&gt;Rubinia Soulsinger&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability.  If I use the Djinn to give away a creature I'm currently controlling using Rubinia's ability that reads &amp;quot;Tap:  Gain control of target creature for as long as ... Rubinia remains tapped.&amp;quot;, what happens?  My understanding is that Rubinia's effect doesn't continue to update, and so the creature would remain under my opponent's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8574" LastEditorUserId="8574" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T03:01:59.473" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T03:01:59.473" Title="Djinn of Infinite Deceits interacting with other control-changing effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20995" CreationDate="2014-12-07T02:05:22.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have Case 2 correct, but not Case 1. There's not any real difference between the two. In both cases, there is one continuous effect giving you control of a creature, and then you apply a second effect giving control to an opponent. In general, the most recent effect &quot;wins out&quot;, and so you've given away your creature. The rules don't make a distinction between what you refer to as &quot;permanent&quot; and &quot;ongoing&quot;; both are simply &quot;continuous effects&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T02:05:22.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20995" CreationDate="2014-12-07T02:05:44.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the result is the same: the new control effect overrides the old one. This is because Magic uses a timestamp system: whenever there are effects that modify the same thing (like control, or type, or color), the one that was created last and hasn't ended determines the final result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 613: Interaction of Continuous Effects&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1.&lt;/strong&gt; The values of an object's characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. For a token or a copy of a spell or card, that means the values of the characteristics defined by the effect that created it. Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.1b.&lt;/strong&gt; Layer 2: Control-changing effects are applied.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Within layers 1-6, apply effects from characteristic-defining abilities first (see rule 604.3), then all other effects in timestamp order (see rule 613.6).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6a.&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6b.&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability receives a timestamp at the time it's created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that these rules do not describe a sequence of actions to take, but rather a process to determine the &lt;em&gt;current&lt;/em&gt; characteristics of an object. Also, timestamps don't really have a &amp;quot;value.&amp;quot; The only important thing is what order they are in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the effects discussed here are continuous effects. That is because &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 611.1&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's how we determine the controller in each of your situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Case 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Control Magic has a static ability that says &amp;quot;You control enchanted creature.&amp;quot; This creates a continuous effect that causes you to control the creature with a timestamp corresponding to when the Control Magic entered the battlefield (613.6a). Then you activate your Djinn's ability. When the ability resolves, it creates a continuous effect that says that your opponent controls that creature (and one that says that you control one of your opponent's creatures, but that's not relevant), with a timestamp corresponding to when the ability resolves (613.6b).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when we want to determine who controls the creatures, we see that there are two control changing effects. We apply them in timestamp order, so we first apply the Control Magic effect, which says that you control it. Then we apply the Djinn's ability's effect, which says that your opponent controls it. The end result is that your opponent controls it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Control Magic ever goes away, the Djinn's ability's effect will be the only control changing effect. It says that your opponent controls the creature, so they control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Case 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, your Rubinia Soulsinger's ability creates an effect that says that you control the creature, with a timestamp corresponding to when the ability resolved. Then your Djinn's ability creates an effect that says that your opponent controls the creatures, with a timestamp corresponding to when &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; ability resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when we want to determine who controls the creatures, we again see that there are two control changing effects. As in case 1, we apply the effects in timestamp order. This means that we first apply Rubinia's ability's effect, then your Djinn's ability's effect. And, as in case 1, the result is that your opponent controls the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you then decide to untap Rubinia, there will then be just one control changing effect: the one that says that your opponent controls the creature. So, they control it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T02:48:50.870" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="20999" CreationDate="2014-12-07T03:26:17.013" Score="7" ViewCount="5994" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in my copy of Carcassonne state that cities that consist of only two tiles are worth only 2 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played another copy of carcassonne (10nth anniversary edition), and the rules don't mention this rule anywhere and so I'm left to assume that each tile would each be worth two points like a normal city.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, which set of rules is correct (most up to date, I guess)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T00:07:08.467" Title="How to score two tiled cities in Carcassonne?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-12-15T08:14:52.537" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="20999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20998" CreationDate="2014-12-07T05:57:03.267" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like the rules have changed since we bought our copies of Carcassonne. Two-tile cities are now worth two points per tile (four points total) like any other city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an old copy published by Rio Grande. In its rules, the following exception is found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exception: a 2 tile city does not get 2 points per tile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A newer copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=670&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (dated 2008) on Rio Grande's site doesn't have that exception. The same example as my rules is used, but the two-tile city now grants two points per tile like any other city. Seeing as both of the documents came from Rio Grande, it's clear there was a shift.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2008 rules were only found via Google. Seems like the rights got transferred from Rio Grande to Z-Man, so Rio Grande wiped their site of Carcassonne references. A check of Z-Man's version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Carcassonne.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; also show two-tile cities being worth four points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T05:57:03.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20991" CreationDate="2014-12-07T06:01:06.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, an artifact creature is specifically a creature that has &amp;quot;artifact&amp;quot; written in its type line. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Emperion&quot;&gt;Platinum Emperion&lt;/a&gt; for an example; it specifically says &amp;quot;artifact creature&amp;quot;. A creature could also become an artifact creature through an effect that says it changes the type, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;. But attaching an equipment to a creature will not affect the creature's types unless that equipment specifically says something like &amp;quot;equipped creature is an artifact in addition to its other types&amp;quot; such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Silverskin%20Armor&quot;&gt;Silverskin Armor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T18:50:41.057" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T18:50:41.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21019" CreationDate="2014-12-07T14:13:07.077" Score="1" ViewCount="91" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say an opponent decides to hunt with a scavenger. You play a sniper from your hand and snipe the scavanger. Since this hunt &quot;didn't happen&quot; may the opponent try to hunt again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T18:33:45.000" Title="May a player try to hunt again if his cards were sniped?" Tags="|arctic-scavengers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T15:58:15.390" Score="2" ViewCount="7882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is an Enchantment Creature also an Enchanted Creature? For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spiteful%20Returned&quot;&gt;Spiteful Returned&lt;/a&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Spiteful Returned or enchanted creature attacks, defending player loses 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have Spiteful Returned and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nyxborn%20Eidolon&quot;&gt;Nyxborn Eidolon&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield - both cast as creatures, not bestowed - and attack with both, does the defender lose 2 life or 4 life? Nyxborn Eidolon is an Enchantment Creature, but it has no enchantments on it. Is it technically an enchanted creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10141" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T14:42:24.787" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:00:27.400" Title="Is an Enchantment Creature also an Enchanted Creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-bestow|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2014-12-07T16:11:06.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They only lose 2 life. Spiteful Returned is a creature with Bestow. This means that when you cast it you have the option to pay its Bestow cost and when you do that you cast just like an Aura picking a Creature for it to Enchant. When it is an Aura the Creature it is attached to is the &amp;quot;Enchanted Creature&amp;quot;, it is never an &amp;quot;Enchanted Creature&amp;quot; if it is not attached to anything and is just an Enchantment Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with bestow gives you the option to cast it as an Aura that enchants a creature, granting that creature its power, toughness, and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card with bestow is in your hand, you have two options: cast it normally for its mana cost, or cast it for its bestow cost. If you cast a bestow card normally, it's an enchantment creature spell that resolves and becomes an enchantment creature on the battlefield. Its bestow ability and its &amp;quot;Enchanted creature gets...&amp;quot; text are ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast a bestow card for its bestow cost, it's never a creature spell. Instead, it's an Aura spell with enchant creature, so you have to target a creature to cast it. If that creature has a heroic ability, this will trigger it, just as any other Aura spell would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the target creature leaves the battlefield after you cast a card with bestow as an Aura but before the spell resolves, the Aura spell will resolve as an enchantment creature rather than being countered like a normal Aura spell. If the target creature is still on the battlefield when the Aura spell resolves, it resolves as an Aura enchanting that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's enchanting a creature, an Aura with bestow grants the creature the bonuses listed in its text box. If the creature it's enchanting leaves the battlefield for any reason, the Aura immediately becomes an enchantment creature again rather than being put in the graveyard like other Auras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From  &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120034702/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/therosmechanics#c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Mechanics of Theros&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T15:00:27.400" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:00:27.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2014-12-07T18:04:23.470" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer you've already gotten, I want to point out that Spiteful Returned doesn't say '&lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; enchanted creature'; it specifically uses the phrasing 'when enchanted creature attacks'.  This refers to the creature that Spiteful Returned is enchanting, and that creature only; if you have Spiteful Returned in play and, say, a Bloodcrazed Hoplite that has a Hopeful Eidolon bestowed onto it, then attacking with the Bloodcrazed Hoplite won't trigger Spiteful Returned's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T18:04:23.470" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21003" CreationDate="2014-12-07T18:34:59.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4b The object or player an Aura is attached to is called enchanted. The Aura is attached to, or “enchants,” that object or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Nyxborn Eidolon has no Auras attached to it, it's not Enchanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More importantly, it's not enchanted by Spiteful Returned. Spiteful Returned's triggered ability only triggers when Spiteful Returned or the creature it enchants attacks. It would say &quot;&lt;em&gt;Whenever Spiteful Returned or &lt;strong&gt;an&lt;/strong&gt; enchanted creature attacks&lt;/em&gt;&quot; if it was meant to trigger whenever any enchanted creature attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T18:50:06.507" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T18:50:06.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-07T21:46:06.317" Score="3" ViewCount="3247" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teysa%2C%20Orzhov%20Scion&quot;&gt;Teysa, Orzhov Scion&lt;/a&gt; and my ten other black creatures are wiped out with &amp;quot;Wrath of God&amp;quot;. Do then 10 white 1/1 Spirits appear on the battlefield even though Teysa has just been destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds pretty strong to me.&#xA;Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10137" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-07T22:05:02.227" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T22:05:03.943" Title="Does the 2nd ability of Teysa, Orzhov Scion trigger with mass destruction?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-12-09T21:42:48.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21007" CreationDate="2014-12-07T22:04:19.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will get the 10 tokens. This is because of the same reason given in the answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18619/can-teysa-orzhov-scion-sacrifice-itself-and-still-use-its-2nd-ability&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6d Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. &lt;strong&gt;However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, all that says that whenever a creature enters the graveyard from the battlefield, the game checks to see what things looked like the moment before the creatures left the battlefield to determine if there's any triggers that need to happen. The game sees that the way things were at that moment included Teysa, Orzhov Scion being on the battlefield, so its trigger happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, once the triggered ability is on the stack, it no longer matters if Teysa is still around or not:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won't affect the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T22:04:19.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21007" CreationDate="2014-12-07T22:05:03.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if Teysa, Orzhov Scion and 10 other black creatures all die at the same time, you get 10 Spirit tokens. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 603&lt;/a&gt; covers how triggered abilities work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6c.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone, or when a phased-in permanent leaves the game because its owner leaves the game.&lt;/strong&gt; These are written as, but aren't limited to, &amp;quot;When [this object] leaves the battlefield, ...&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, ...&amp;quot; An ability that attempts to do something to the card that left the battlefield checks for it only in the first zone that it went to. An ability that triggers when a card is put into a certain zone &amp;quot;from anywhere&amp;quot; is never treated as a leaves-the-battlefield ability, even if an object is put into that zone from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6d.&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. &lt;strong&gt;However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane &lt;strong&gt;will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward&lt;/strong&gt;. The game has to &amp;quot;look back in time&amp;quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability is a leaves-the-battlefield ability and it existed before the creatures were destroyed, so the ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T22:05:03.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21014" CreationDate="2014-12-07T22:17:11.710" Score="2" ViewCount="2665" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to activate the activated ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teysa%2C%20Orzhov%20Scion&quot;&gt;Teysa, Orzhov Scion&lt;/a&gt;, does &amp;quot;sacrifice 3 creatures&amp;quot; count as 1 cost, or 3 separate costs? And, does it matter which it is at all?  601.2g says &lt;code&gt;The player pays the total cost in any order.&lt;/code&gt; Does this mean that the creatures are sacrificed in any order; or are they sacrificed all at the same time, as 1 cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, is it any different if they are sacrificed all at the same time, or one after the other? I believe it wouldn't matter, because no triggered abilities would go on the stack until a player is about to receive priority anyway. 603.6d says &lt;code&gt;...will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward.&lt;/code&gt; But what is &amp;quot;the event&amp;quot; that it looks prior to? Is each sacrifice of a creature a separate event? If this were the case, then sacrificing Teysa before the other creatures would mean that you don't get the tokens for Teysa's triggered ability. Or, is &amp;quot;the event&amp;quot; the activating of Teysa's ability, in which case the order makes no difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T02:50:17.380" Title="When you &quot;sacrifice 3 creatures&quot; as a cost, are they sacrificed one at a time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-12-07T22:42:54.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Teysa's gatherer page, there is a single ruling that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may sacrifice Teysa itself to help pay for its first ability, but unlike other white and black creatures, it won't cause its second ability to trigger. &lt;strong&gt;Any other white and black creatures you sacrifice to pay for the first ability will cause the second ability to trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that either all sacrifices happen at the same time or the order doesn't matter. And it doesn't make a difference which it is because the game will &quot;look back in time&quot; (as 603.6d says) to before any of the cost was payed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T01:15:23.423" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T01:15:23.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20987" CreationDate="2014-12-07T23:40:26.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For amateurs, each level is one stone difference. So an amateur seven dan is six stones stronger than an amateur shodan. &quot;Seven dan&quot; is about as strong as a &quot;pure&quot; amateur is likely to get, although there are some amateurs that have had professionalized training, and are believe to be &quot;eight dan&quot; in strength, on the amateur scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pro&quot; starts about where amateurs leave off. That is a pro one dan is about an amateur seven dan. Pro dan levels go from one to nine, but the difference in each level is about one third of a stone, rather than a whole stone. So a pro nine dan might be a &quot;ten&quot; dan on the amateur scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-12-07T23:40:26.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-12-07T23:57:57.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that rule 601.2g exists is for payments with multiple parts. Take for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birthing%20Pod&quot;&gt;Birthing Pod&lt;/a&gt;, it has a payment that includes mana, tapping the pod, and sacrificing a Creature. 601.2g says you can pay the costs in any order, so you can tap the pod first, sacrifice creatures second and pay mana last. Or what ever order you want to, I cannot think of an example of a time when the exact order matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For something like Teysa all of the creatures get sacrificed at the same time because there is only one direction to sacrifice the creatures. So in this case there is only one cost, to pay sacrificing creatures (the fact there is more than one creature doesn't matter). This means that if any of the sacrificed creatures has an ability that triggers off of any of the creatures dying or getting sacrificed they would trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they weren't all sacrificed at the same time it would indeed matter what order that they were sacrificed in since if the first on sacrificed has the trigger that cares about the other creatures dying it will not be on the battlefield when those creatures die and thus would not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T02:22:57.170" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T02:22:57.170" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21010" CreationDate="2014-12-08T01:37:25.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When you “sacrifice 3 creatures” as a cost, are they sacrificed one at a time?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. &quot;Sacrifice 3 creatures&quot; only has one keyword action. This differs from &quot;Sacrifice a creature. Sacrifice a creature. Sacrifice a creature.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a payment consists of more than one action, those action aren't performed simultaneously as per the rule you quoted (&quot;in any order&quot;). That is practically never relevant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It means that if part of the cost requires that you sacrifice a permanent, and that part of the cost requires that you tap a permanent, you could tap a permanent then sacrifice that same permanent. If all parts of the payment was done simultaneously, I don't think that would be possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, there's only one action (&quot;sacrifice&quot;), so asking about order makes no sense. All three creatures are sacrificed at once since there's only one instruction to sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, for each black and white creature you sacrifice at the same time as Teysa, Teysa's second ability will trigger. Because of 603.6d, all that's relevant is that the Teysa was on the battlefield immediately before the sacrifice, and that the sacrificed creatures were black&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. This is supported by a ruling on Teysa:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may sacrifice Teysa itself to help pay for its first ability, but unlike other white and black creatures, it won't cause its second ability to trigger. Any other white and black creatures you sacrifice to pay for the first ability will cause the second ability to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't matter that Teysa left the battlefield during, that Teysa isn't on the battlefield afterwards, or that &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/gtc/en/233.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one of the creatures&lt;/a&gt; became a colorless artifact card when it got sacrificed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T02:50:17.380" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T02:50:17.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2014-12-08T06:08:07.163" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;we just took a few post-it notes, cut them into thinner strips with a point on the sticky end...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10144" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T06:08:07.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21018" CreationDate="2014-12-08T06:52:25.160" Score="2" ViewCount="9441" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKrenko%2c%20Mob%20Boss%5d&quot;&gt;Krenko, Mob Boss&lt;/a&gt; on the field. I use Krenko's ability to create X tokens. Then, I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProgenitor%20Mimic%5d&quot;&gt;Progenitor Mimic&lt;/a&gt; choosing Krenko. When the Legend Rule takes effect, I sacrifice the original Krenko. Since the Mimic comes in untapped, on my opponent's turn I tap it for the X tokens. My opponent takes and ends his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it comes back to my turn. The Mimic untaps, and then copies itself during upkeep. Would I be able to tap the token copy after it's created for its X tokens, and then use the mimic later in the round for another X? Would the Legend Rule take effect before that could happen? Would I be able to tap the copy in response to the Legend Rule effect, placing the tap on top of the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T14:35:04.830" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T14:35:04.830" Title="Can I activate a Legendary creature's abilities before the Legend rule kicks in?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-legendary-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-08T06:58:41.647" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose my opponent is playing Slivers, and has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Silver&quot;&gt;Muscle Silver&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Metallic%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Metallic Sliver&lt;/a&gt; on the field. On my side, I have a 1/1 Goblin token. My opponent declares both Slivers as attacking, and I block the Muscle Sliver with my Goblin. After combat, I Overload an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Electrickery&quot;&gt;Electrickery&lt;/a&gt;, killing the Muscle Sliver. Since it took 1 damage and the +1/+1 from the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Muscle Sliver&lt;/a&gt; is removed, would the Metallic Sliver die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10145" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T15:30:54.743" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T15:30:54.743" Title="Damage Cleanup and Toughness Boosting Effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-08T14:23:02.967" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21016" CreationDate="2014-12-08T08:00:47.777" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you cannot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go through this step by step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I use his ability to create the X tokens. Then, I play a Progenitor Mimic targeting Krenko. When the Legend Rule takes effect, I sacrifice the original Krenko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, so good. A minor detail is that the mimic doesn't actually target, but that's beside your main question. You currently have an untapped Krenko with a duplication clause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the Mimic comes in untapped, on my opponent's turn I tap it for the X tokens. My opponent takes and ends his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work out so well. Yes, the Mimic came in untapped, but it has summoning sickness until &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; next turn. You'll need to give it haste somehow if you want this batch of tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Now it comes back to my turn. The Mimic untaps, and then copies itself during upkeep. Would I be able to tap the token copy after it's created for its X tokens, and then use the mimic later in the round for another X? Would the Legend Rule take effect before that could happen? Would I be able to tap the copy in response to the Legend Rule effect, placing the tap on top of the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as the Mimic's ability resolves, you have two Krenkos on the field, and lose one to the Legend Rule. This is a State Based Action, does not use the stack, and cannot be responded to. You could tap the Mimic in response to the ability triggering, then keep the token, but the token has summoning sickness, so you can't get an additional activation that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T03:17:26.320" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T03:17:26.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21002" CreationDate="2014-12-08T18:33:45.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1052134/complete-faq-about-sniperssaboteurs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG FAQ about snipers and saboteurs&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. If a player has been sniped or sabotaged while resource gathering,&#xA;  is he still required to use or discard the other cards he played for&#xA;  hunting/hiring, digging, or drawing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. No, only the card that was sniped/disarmed is discarded, and all&#xA;  other cards involved in that action can be taken back into hand and&#xA;  re-purposed to perform a different hunt/hire, dig or draw action, or&#xA;  to do something else entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can re-use the item(s) and attempt the action again (this is specifically stated &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/3634508#3634508&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in another thread&lt;/a&gt; by the designer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T18:33:45.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21020" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21023" CreationDate="2014-12-08T21:33:59.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1262" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Athreos%2C%20God%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Athreos, God of Passage&lt;/a&gt; on the field.  They then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Martyr%20of%20Sands&quot;&gt;Martyr of Sands&lt;/a&gt; and use her ability &amp;quot;{1}, Reveal X white cards from your hand, Sacrifice Martyr of Sands: You gain three times X life.&amp;quot;  They sacrifice the Martyr, triggering Athreos's ability.  I choose not to pay 3 life, and they return the Martyr to their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my opponent still gain life even though Martyr of Sands isn't in the graveyard as her ability resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10148" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T01:08:02.383" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T09:46:03.047" Title="Athreos, God of Passage, and Martyr of Sands" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21020" CreationDate="2014-12-08T21:48:38.867" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent does still gain the life. Nothing in the ability says that the Martyr has to be in their graveyard to gain the life. The sacrifice cost was paid, and once the ability was on the stack, it existed independent of the creature card (CR 112.7a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T22:27:53.983" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T22:27:53.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21020" CreationDate="2014-12-08T21:54:46.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will still gain life. This is because sacrificing the Martyr is sacrificed and once that happens the ability doesn't care what happens to her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is your opponent activates the Martyr's ability, sacrificing her, paying the mana, and revealing white cards from your hand. Once they've done all of that the ability goes on the stack. After it is on the stack Aethreos's ability triggers and when it resolves you allow the Martyr to return to their hand. At this point the Martyr's ability is still on the stack waiting to resolve, and since there is nothing in the effect that requires the Martyr to be in the graveyard when it resolves it is perfectly happy to give your opponent life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T21:54:46.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21020" CreationDate="2014-12-08T22:06:23.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since nothing but the sacrifice tries to move the Martyr, the Martyr would still be on the battlefield if it wasn't sacrificed. The Martyr was sacrificed, so the cost was payed, so your opponent gains the life&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. Athreos caused a triggered ability to happen to Martyr after Martyr's ability was put on the stack, but that doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps taken in order are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The costs are paid for Martyr of Sands's ability: One mana is paid, you reveal some number of white cards from your hand, and Martyr of Sands is placed in the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Martyr of Sands's ability is placed on the stack, but doesn't resolve yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Athreos's triggered ability is triggered and then placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Athreos's ability resolves. In this case, you decide not to pay three life, and Martyr of Sands is returned to your opponent's hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Martyr of Sands's ability resolves, causing your opponent to gain three times X life. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, your opponent would still gain the life even if the sacrifice itself was replaced with another action&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.11][2]&lt;/sup&gt;: the cost to activate the ability would have changed, but the ability would still have the same effect when resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.11. The actions performed when paying a cost may be modified by effects. Even if they are, meaning the actions that are performed don’t match the actions that are called for, the cost has still been paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sacrifice happened (even if the creature didn't end up in the graveyard), so abilities that trigger when you sacrifice a creature (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDragon%20Appeasement%5d&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability) will trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The sacrifice itself was replaced, so abilities that trigger when you sacrifice a creature (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDragon%20Appeasement%5d&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability) won't trigger&lt;sup&gt;[CR 614.6]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-08-22T09:46:03.047" LastActivityDate="2019-08-22T09:46:03.047" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21027" CreationDate="2014-12-08T22:06:35.403" Score="7" ViewCount="22085" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I noticed that many cards with tap-effects ship with a clause specifying that they can only be used on &lt;em&gt;untapped&lt;/em&gt; permanents, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Earthcraft&quot;&gt;Earthcraft&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crackleburr&quot;&gt;Crackleburr&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's my question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't that imply that, given the right situation, one can legally tap an already tapped permanent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll give an example of the kinda scenarios this is relevant for: Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tamiyo%2C%20the%20Moon%20Sage&quot;&gt;Tamiyo, the Moon Sage&lt;/a&gt; activate her first ability when no untapped cards are around? Or, thinking untap-effects, could I bounce a forest with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scryb%20Ranger&quot;&gt;Scryb Ranger&lt;/a&gt; even when there isn't a tapped creature available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that, unlike the previous batch of examples, the wording on these lacks the clause restricting their use to un/tapped permanents - does that mean that they aren't?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any kind of clarification would be greatly appreciated here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10069" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T22:15:14.450" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T11:15:48.867" Title="Are (un)tapped permanents still legal targets for &quot;(un)tap target permanent&quot; effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-12-08T22:12:09.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot untap an untapped permanent to pay an &quot;untap&quot; cost, exactly like how you cannot tap a tapped permanent to pay a &quot;tap&quot; cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.6. The untap symbol is {Q}. The untap symbol in an activation cost means &quot;Untap this permanent.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;A permanent that's already untapped can't be untapped again to pay the cost.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Tamiyo CAN use her first ability even without any untapped creatures around. This is because it says &quot;target creature&quot;, not &quot;target untapped creature&quot;. So you can target a tapped creature as a legal target. When the ability resolves, it will first attempt to tap the already tapped creature (which will do nothing), and then the &quot;it doesn't untap...&quot; will still take effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same way, you can use Scryb Ranger's ability even without any untapped creatures, because you can target a tapped creature. But again, when the ability resolves, it will attempt to tap the already tapped creature, which will simply do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is that you can never tap a creature that's already tapped, or untap a creature that's already untapped. Attempting to do so to pay a cost is like attempting to pay 1 mana when you have no mana in your mana pool; you can't do it. However, nothing stops you from using a spell or ability that, as part of its resolution, attempts to tap a tapped creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-08T22:17:30.577" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T22:17:30.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-12-08T22:18:13.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are looking at two different things here: costs and effects. Earthcraft and Crackleburr both require you to tap untapped permanents (or untap tapped permanents) to activate their abilities. If Earthcraft allowed you to tap a &lt;strong&gt;tapped&lt;/strong&gt; creature to untap your a land, then with just one creature you could untap all of your land forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the other two, the tapping or untapping is the &lt;strong&gt;effect&lt;/strong&gt; of the ability. In Tamiyo's case, you pay the cost by adding one loyalty counter and you choose a target. Then, when the ability resolves, the targeted permanent becomes tapped. Similarly, in Scryb Ranger's case, putting the land in your hand is the cost of activating the ability. Even if the creature dies before the ability resolves, the land is already in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-12-08T22:18:13.813" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21024" CreationDate="2014-12-08T23:59:42.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it's a permanent, it's a valid target for &quot;target permanent&quot;. Period&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot untap a permanent that's not tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.17b To untap a permanent, rotate it back to the upright position from a sideways position. Only tapped permanents can be untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has consequences&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;, but not for Tamiyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion stems from the fact that players intuitively know they cannot choose to do something impossible. This is indeed a rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2d [...] The player can’t choose an option that’s illegal or impossible, with the exception that having a library with no cards in it doesn’t make drawing a card an impossible action [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, while you are forbidden from choosing to do something impossible, there's nothing impossible about activating Tamiyo's ability. &lt;strong&gt;It's of no consequence that the ability involves actions that cannot be performed if the ability were to resolve immediately after being activated.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As usual, cards can override the rules. For example, abilities such as Shroud, Hexproof and Protection can prevent a permanent from being targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are required to pay a cost completely&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.3]&lt;/sup&gt;, so a cost that requires you to untap something that isn't tapped can't be payed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the untap symbol means &quot;&lt;em&gt;Untap this permanent&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. Because you can't untap a permanent that isn't tapped, you can't pay the cost of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPuresight%20Merrow%5d&quot;&gt;Puresight Merrow&lt;/a&gt;'s ability when Puresight Merrow isn't tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, If you want to untap a tapped permanent so it can attack, and you use an instant that reads &quot;&lt;em&gt;Tap or untap target permanent.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, and someone untaps it in response, you would be force to tap it when your ability resolves (because you can't chose to do something impossible.) That's why that type of ability is phrased &quot;&lt;em&gt;You&lt;/em&gt; may &lt;em&gt;tap or untap target permanent.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, If you have an ability whose effect reads &quot;&lt;em&gt;You may untap an opponent's land. If you do, do X.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, you can't do X if the opponent has no tapped lands.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2019-12-13T11:15:48.867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-13T11:15:48.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21028" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T02:46:35.287" Score="0" ViewCount="5087" Body="&lt;p&gt;The play was the following set of cards: 4, 3, 6, 4, 5. Should the score be for 4 points for the 3,6, 4, 5 or only 6, 4, 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10151" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:32:50.140" Title="Cribbage scoring for a run of 4 out of sequence" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T12:34:20.503" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of creating a soccer game, can I use real player name / images in this game or are there any legal implications?  For example can I use Lionel Messi and his image on a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your help and time &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10153" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:10:47.953" Title="using real names / images in a board game" Tags="|game-design|legal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-12-09T16:43:36.583" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21031" CreationDate="2014-12-09T13:47:15.363" Score="5" ViewCount="20423" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakshasa%20Deathdealer&quot;&gt;Rakshasa Deathdealer&lt;/a&gt;. What happens when I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bile%20Blight&quot;&gt;Bile Blight&lt;/a&gt; on that creature? Does regenerate let the creature survive or will the -3/-3 until end of turn from Bile Blight simply kill the creature whether it regenerates or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also appreciate that the +2/+2 ability on this particular creature would in fact save it without any of the above interaction, but certain plays beforehand had caused this to be an unviable option for my opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7486" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T10:53:29.250" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T10:53:29.250" Title="Can regenerate save a creature from -X/-X effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-regenerate|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21030" CreationDate="2014-12-09T14:14:15.937" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regenerate will not save the creature. The state based action that moves the creature to the graveyard in this case does not technically destroy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5f&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if regeneration could replace this kind of death, the creature would simply die again anyway because it would &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; have -3/-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regeneration can replace:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Actual destruction, such as the destruction wrought by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreadbore&quot;&gt;Dreadbore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The state based action described by &lt;strong&gt;704.5g&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5g&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The state based action described by &lt;strong&gt;704.5h&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5h&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and it’s been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked, that creature is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-09T16:52:53.227" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:52:53.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21029" CreationDate="2014-12-09T14:41:26.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Images tend to be copyrighted. You'd have to take into consideration both the rights of the photographer, and the depicted person. I'd expect you would have to get both the player's and the photographer's permission to use the images. That permission will most likely cost you a lot of money, especially for people like Messi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should probably just read &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photography_and_the_law&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; about photography and the law. The biggest problem is that copyright law is different in each country. Depending on where you are and where your game will be made available, you'd need to simultaneously comply to a bunch of different countries' copyright laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T14:41:26.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21028" CreationDate="2014-12-09T15:32:50.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sequence does not matter.  4 points for 3-6-4-5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T15:32:50.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21029" CreationDate="2014-12-09T16:10:47.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. This type of use tends to be blocked by Copyright, Trademark and/or Publicity Rights laws in many jurisdictions, and it's the type of use that tends to land people in court even when it's legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T16:10:47.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21035" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-09T17:41:22.330" Score="3" ViewCount="1732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to play against my friends on Ticket to Ride but I wondering if I can if they are on their iPhones and I am on my iPad?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10156" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-09T14:38:14.837" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T05:44:26.420" Title="Can I play Ticket to Ride on my iPad against people using Ticket to Ride pocket?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|online|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21038" CreationDate="2014-12-09T21:51:36.853" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the primary source for upcoming rule changes? Who breaks the official news?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that these changes are made publicly available before they actually take effect. For example, I found out about the updated &quot;2014 Core Set Legend rule&quot; via a video from The Judge's Corner on Youtube. I have also discovered upcoming rules changes through StarCityGames news articles. Both of these outlets are probably secondary sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:00:51.037" Title="Source for upcoming rule changes" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21035" CreationDate="2014-12-09T21:51:55.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, all iOS versions of TTR may be involved in a multiplayer game, but only with expansions that are available on all devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-12-09T21:51:55.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21036" CreationDate="2014-12-09T22:46:04.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official announcement of any rules changes is made in an article on Wizards' &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20220621133226/https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic site&lt;/a&gt;. This article is generally posted the week of a set's pre-release event (&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/khans-tarkir-update-bulletin-2014-09-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Khans of Tarkit Update Bulletin&lt;/a&gt;), or in the case of products that do not have pre-releases like the Commander 2014 decks the set's release date. Occasionally they are a little late for example the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/release-notes-2014-11-10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander 2014 Release Notes&lt;/a&gt; were not posted until the week after the decks released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards also usually release an article when previews start detailing all of the mechanics that will be in the set, for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-khans-tarkir&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Khans of Tarkir&lt;/a&gt;. The difference between these articles is that the Mechanics of ______ articles do not have any actual rules text, they just describe how the mechanics work, and they only contain information on one set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Update Bulletin on the other hand has the actual text for the mechanics that will be in the Comprehensive Rules, it also contains any other updates and changes they are making to other rules (for example they recently changed Convoke and Delve in the Magic 2014 Update Bulletin even though Delve wasn't in the set at all). It also contains any changes to the Oracle text of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your Judge Cast video Wizards actually posted an &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/magic-2014-core-set-rules-preview-2013-05-23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about a month prior to the video listing some of the changes they were planning on making. This doesn't happen very often, but they do it occasionally for bigger changes that might change how people play the game. So for that change there was a big change to how the Legend Rule and Planeswalker Uniqueness Rules worked and releasing the news early allowed people to prepare for the changes, so for example if you played Commander and your decks way of dealing with opposing commanders was to clone them that would no longer work so you would have to redo a large portion of your deck and telling everyone there would be changes coming would allow you to get your deck ready for when they did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while they occasionally post additional articles on their site, the primary source for any rules information is usually either the Mechanics of ______ and the ______ Update Bulletin articles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything outside of an official Wizards source is a secondary source probably getting their information from either of these two sources, or statements by Wizards employees on social media. On rare occasions there might be leaks of upcoming rules that other sites report on before it is officially posted on Magic's site I would not consider them to be a primary source, since they are still getting their information from Wizards it just isn't published yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T15:00:51.037" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:00:51.037" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T02:10:25.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1786" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner/Declarer opens  1 club&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  RH opponent overcalls 2 diamonds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Responder has a balanced 9 HCPs:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; S: K J x x&#xA; H: x x x &#xA; D: Q J x&#xA; C: Q x x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should responder bid or pass? If bid, what is appropriate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10163" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T15:06:07.067" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T15:14:15.637" Title="Bridge-response after intervening bid" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21040" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21041" CreationDate="2014-12-10T09:43:59.713" Score="3" ViewCount="544" Body="&lt;p&gt;A group of 4 managed to get through all the heroes and elite heroes in Boss Monster without any clear winner (10 souls)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do we determine who won?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10165" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:39:46.647" Title="What happens when all heroes and elite heroes are dealt in Boss Monster?" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21040" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:39:46.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an answer from one of the game's creators in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/997751/running-out-heroes-ordinary-hero-epic-hero-deck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on BGG.  It states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a turn ends and all Hero cards have been claimed or removed from&#xA;  the game, the tiebreaker rules apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T14:39:46.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:40:29.443" Score="11" ViewCount="4468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is drawing multiple cards an atomic action, or do effects triggered by drawing a card trigger for each card drawn instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spiteful%20Visions&quot;&gt;Spiteful Visions&lt;/a&gt;, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a player draws a card, Spiteful Visions deals 1 damage to that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player were to be compelled to draw more than one card, would that player be dealt the damage all at once, or one at a time? For example, how many times would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Circle%20of%20Protection%3A%20Black&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Black&lt;/a&gt; need to be activated to prevent all damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, if there exist additional effects that are triggered by damage dealt in this way, are such effects resolved together atomically or is each resultant effect resolved individually?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How about tutors, or other cards not using the word 'draw', eg: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tomorrow%2C%20Azami%27s%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Tomorrow, Azami&amp;#39;s Familiar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you would draw a card, look at the top three cards of your library instead. Put one of those cards into your hand and the rest on the bottom of your library in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="9834" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T21:37:14.643" LastActivityDate="2021-08-27T02:15:45.903" Title="Is drawing multiple cards an atomic action?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21042" CreationDate="2014-12-10T14:56:20.457" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spiteful Visions would trigger once for each card drawn, so if you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDivination%5d&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt; to draw 2 cards it would trigger twice and you would be dealt 1 damage for each trigger, and CoP:Black would need to be activated twice to prevent all the damage. Anything that triggers off of this damage would then trigger once for each time the artifact triggered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Tomorrow it would not trigger because it does not contain the word &quot;Draw&quot;, if it doesn't specifically say &quot;Draw&quot; it does not count as drawing cards they are just put into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2018-10-31T14:12:12.703" LastActivityDate="2018-10-31T14:12:12.703" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20998" CreationDate="2014-12-10T18:04:50.363" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the current version of Carcassonne, two-tile cities are worth 4 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is not the only rule that has changed between editions - farmer scoring has changed as well. Below are the scoring differences (copied from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gracefulboot.com/board_games/carcassonne_farmer_scoring.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First Edition Scoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a farmer can walk along the field to a city, he is connected to it.&#xA;  It can be fifty tiles away, or on the same tile. As long as unbroken&#xA;  path goes to the city then he gets counted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each completed city, the player with the most farmers touching it&#xA;  gets four points. Tied players all get four points, each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that two-tile cities are two points for a knight when completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second Edition Scoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Count the number of farmers in that field. The player with the most&#xA;  pawns inside the field will score for that field. If many players tie&#xA;  for majority of pawns, they all receive the full points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A field will score 3 points for each completed city adjacent to the&#xA;  field. A city is adjacent to the field when part of the city walls are&#xA;  used to define the boundary of the field (i.e., next to the field).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player can score for a single city one time, and only one time... no&#xA;  matter how many fields and farmers he has next to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that two-tile cities are two points for a knight when completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Third Edition Scoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Count the number of farmers in that field. The player with the most&#xA;  pawns inside the field will score for that field. If many players tie&#xA;  for majority of pawns, they all receive the full points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A field will score 3 points for each completed city adjacent to the&#xA;  field. A city is adjacent to the field when part of the city walls are&#xA;  used to define the boundary of the field (i.e., next to the field).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each field is scored for itself. Therefore, a city may score more than&#xA;  once for a player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that two-tile cities are four points for a knight when completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastEditorUserId="1565" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T00:07:08.467" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T00:07:08.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18539" CreationDate="2014-12-10T21:15:41.880" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Rules (page 12):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the City Management Phase, the first player takes one action with&#xA;  each of their cities. A city may produce an item (such as a building&#xA;  or unit card), devote itself to the arts to gain culture, or harvest a&#xA;  resource as its action (see pages 15–18). After the first player&#xA;  completes their City Management Phase, play passes to the left and the&#xA;  next player completes their City Management Phase, until all players&#xA;  have done so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players take city actions in turn order and take city actions one at a time.  To cancel a player's city action, you have to declare that your use of the writing ability immediately after they take that city action.  The cancellation has to be declared before anyone else takes a subsequent action because the cancellation could affect their later actions.  So, for example, if you cancel a player building a wonder with one of their cities, they could still build it with the other.  It is standard procedure in board games for you to be able to request they wait after taking an action (before taking any subsequent action) for you to decide whether or not you want to cancel it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game rules are ambiguous as to whether or not any trade spent to rush production is lost or not when writing is used, but this is answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/news/Civilization%20FAQ_v2.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player whose city action was cancelled gets back any resources and&#xA;  trade spent, but cannot take any other action with that city.&#xA;  Likewise, if the player used a culture event card such as “A Gift from&#xA;  Afar” as part of the canceled action, he would get that card back&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2014-12-10T21:15:41.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21039" CreationDate="2014-12-10T22:17:29.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given these assumptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;RHO's overcall is a weak &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overcall#Jump_overcalls&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;jump overcall&lt;/a&gt;; and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You and partner are laying a fairly standard 5-card major system with no agreements other than negative doubles for this auction.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then my recommendation is to make a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negative_double&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Negative Double&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My expectation is that when both majors are unbid, as here, then such a double at this level promises 4-3 or better in the majors. Some partnerships require 4-4 but that seems excessive and over-cautious for today's competitive auctions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you are better than a minimum 1-over-1 response would have shown, with support for partner's clubs if that suit is real. You also have the possibility of suggesting notrump as a denomination, but have no interest in attempting to defend 2D doubled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason you are not playing Negative Doubles as a partnership agreement, then my advice is to start doing so. As this hand illustrates, you are severely handicapped in competitive auctions without this convention in your arsenal.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, 2NT is probably the best call you can make: showing (in a competitive auction) 10-11 HCP balanced and one stopper in the overcalled suit. It hides the nice 4-card Spade suit, but that is the price for playing 5-card Majors without Negative Doubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in general for competitive auctions, as here, many strong bids become invitational instead - the reason is that a cue bid of the opponents suit is available to show all strong hands lacking interest in a penalty double. This helps to alleviate the bidding room stolen by the opponents overcall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T15:14:15.637" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T15:14:15.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21047" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-11T07:23:56.020" Score="2" ViewCount="366" Body="&lt;p&gt;A gate and a monster appear when returning back to Arkham from Other world. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to close the first gate which I came from, so I wait a round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the other gate draw me in next round or can I close the first gate before the other gate draws me in? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10171" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-12-11T14:17:39.783" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T14:41:54.937" Title="Gate and monster appear when returning to Arkham from Other world" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21047" CreationDate="2014-12-11T14:41:54.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the &quot;Gate and a monster&quot; effect still needs to follow the basic rules on placing a gate. This means if you are at a location with an Elder Sign, the gate doesn't open, and if you are at a location with an open gate, then a monster surge happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you are on a location with an open gate, and you have explored it. A gate opens in your location. This means a monster surge happens, and no second gate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2014-12-11T14:41:54.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21049" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-11T21:26:21.867" Score="1" ViewCount="5332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strength%20of%20the%20Tajuru&quot;&gt;Strength of the Tajuru&lt;/a&gt;. What does multikicker mean, and how would I use it in a game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10174" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T19:48:47.023" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T19:48:47.023" Title="How does multikicker work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21049" CreationDate="2014-12-11T21:54:29.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, in order to understand how Multikicker works you have to understand how Kicker works. What Kicker {cost} means is that when you cast the spell (before you do anything like choose targets or determine cost) you decide if you are going to 'kick' the spell, if you do you pay {cost} in addition to any other costs of the spell, and it will have a different effect if it was kicked. For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ardent%20Soldier&quot;&gt;Ardent Soldier&lt;/a&gt; has &lt;code&gt;Kicker {2}&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;If Ardent Soldier was kicked, it enters the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/code&gt; So when you cast the Soldier if you pay an additional {2} it will enter the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter. Normally you can only kick a spell once, but what Multikicker allows you to do is kick the spell as many times as you can pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength of the Tajuru can be a little confusing since it has an {X} in its cost in addition to the Multikicker. How it will work is you decide how many counters you want to place on each creature, this value will be the {X} in the cost, then you decide how many creatures you want to target, the first one is free every additional one cost {1} from the Multikicker. So your final cost would come out to {X}{# of targets - 1}{G}{G}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=strength%20of%20the%20tajuru&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer Rulings&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you want to put four +1/+1 counters on each of three different targets, that means X is 4 and you're kicking the spell twice. You'll pay a mana cost of {4}{G}{G}, plus a kicker cost of {1}, plus another kicker cost of {1}, for a total of {6}{G}{G}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strength of the Tajuru is probably the most complicated of the multikicker cards, most of them are much simpler, take for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Apex%20Hawks&quot;&gt;Apex Hawks&lt;/a&gt;. The Hawks have &lt;code&gt;Multikicker {1}{W}&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Apex Hawks enters the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it for each time it was kicked.&lt;/code&gt;, what this means is as you cast the Hawks you can pay {1}{W} as many times as you want in addition to the regular cost of the spell, and for every time you do that it gets a +1/+1 counter. So if you payed {3}{W}{W}{W} for the Multikicker it would enter the battlefield with 3 +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T13:46:34.637" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T13:46:34.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21049" CreationDate="2014-12-11T23:13:06.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case you were confused, the X in Strength of the Tajuru's cost is unrelated to multikicker. If you need help understanding that mechanic, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/21056/6692&quot;&gt;What does X mean in a spell&amp;#39;s cost?&lt;/a&gt;. Now, to understand Multikicker, it helps to understand Kicker first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kicker&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kicker is an extra cost that you may pay when you cast the spell. If you choose to pay the cost, then the spell has been &quot;kicked&quot;. Generally, you will get some additional effect if the card was kicked. If you don't pay the cost, then you don't get the extra effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cnJqO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cast MySpell for &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RzaVN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;, then it deals 1 damage to target creature or planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cast MySpell for &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzdWB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RzaVN.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;, then MySpell deals 1 damage to target creature or planeswalker and you gain 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Multikicker&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multikicker is a variant of kicker. If you pay the multikicker cost, then the spell has been &quot;kicked&quot;. If you pay the multikicker cost N times, then the spell has been kicked N times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpRXr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cast AnotherSpell for &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzdWB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;, creatures you control get +0/+1 until the end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cast AnotherSpell for &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzdWB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;, creatures you control get +0/+1 until the end of turn and all creatures get -1/-1 until the end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you cast AnotherSpell for &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xzdWB.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RoAT2.gif&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;, creatures you control get +0/+1 until the end of turn and all creatures get -6/-6 until the end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T15:47:43.543" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21052" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T08:51:19.213" Score="0" ViewCount="1054" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt; the other day, and I wondered: Could I put down Evolving Wilds as a land, use it for 1 colorless mana by tapping it, and then sacrifice it to search my library for a basic land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As opposed to only tapping and sacrificing for a search through the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much, mana AND ability, not ability and nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10175" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T23:23:58.097" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T23:26:56.840" Title="tap and sacrificing an already tapped land to get it's ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21052" CreationDate="2014-12-12T09:04:31.287" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evolving Wilds' ability has the tap symbol in its cost. If it is already tapped, then you can't pay that cost, so you can't activity the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worse, you can't even tap it for 1 colorless mana in the first place! Evolving Wilds has no ability that lets you tap it for mana whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tap basic lands for mana because the rules grants them an ability to do so, but that ability is only granted to basic lands (Plains, Islands, Mountains, Forests and Swamps). You can't tap other lands for mana unless they have an ability allowing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T23:26:56.840" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T23:26:56.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21054" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T13:46:17.423" Score="1" ViewCount="518" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this question about the Homeworld base ability. The text says: After each time a minion is played here, its owner may play an extra minion of power 2 or less&quot;. I was just wondering if I understood it correctly. So, lets say I couple Killer Plants with Robots and on my turn I play &lt;strong&gt;Blossom&lt;/strong&gt; (lets me play 3 Ms with the same name) = 4 minions (e.g. &lt;strong&gt;Nukebot&lt;/strong&gt; + 3 &lt;strong&gt;hoverbots&lt;/strong&gt; - each of the 3 getting me an additional minion to play on another base) on this base, so I get to play 4 extra minions - maybe 4 &lt;strong&gt;Zapbots&lt;/strong&gt;; now I´m up to 8 extra minions, which I may play on other bases and, having &lt;strong&gt;Microbots&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Sprouts&lt;/strong&gt; (none exceeding the power 2 limit), I may as well get those 15VPs in just one turn. Sure, it is a highly unlikely scenario, but is there anything I missed or is it an improbable, yet possible, scenario, given that I may have more than 10 Ms in my hand if an opponent returned them to me - Crop Circles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10177" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T23:28:15.807" Title="The Homeworld base" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-12T15:37:04.577" Score="2" ViewCount="3748" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Song%20of%20the%20Dryads&quot;&gt;Song of the Dryads&lt;/a&gt; on an opponent's commander. It is now a colorless forest land. My opponent has an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angelic%20Field%20Marshal&quot;&gt;Angelic Field Marshal&lt;/a&gt; on the field which gains power if you control your commander. Is the colorless forest land still my opponent's commander? Does my opponent get the Lieutenant bonus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10180" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T17:16:54.997" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T17:16:54.997" Title="If a commander becomes a colorless forest, is it still a commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2014-12-13T00:21:59.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21061" CreationDate="2014-12-12T15:42:37.510" Score="4" ViewCount="11613" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the X in a spell's cost do? For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStrength%20of%20the%20Tajuru%5d&quot;&gt;Strength of the Tajuru&lt;/a&gt; has X in its cost. What do I need to do in order to cast that spell, and what happens with the X when it resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Note: If you need help understanding multikicker, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/21049/6692&quot;&gt;How does multikicker work?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:50:45.097" Title="What does X mean in a spell's cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21039" CreationDate="2014-12-12T15:49:26.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you opponent had bid ONE diamond, I would bid one spade. I would do this even with a weaker hand than yours (take away a queen).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since your opponent bid TWO diamonds, the &quot;standard&quot; response is a negative double, as recommended by Pieter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This bid has two meanings. The first is, I'd rather not play in &quot;your&quot; suit (clubs) nor the opponent's suit (diamonds). That leaves spades and hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second meaning applies in your case: The opponents bid over my suit. So &quot;go back&quot; and think in terms of my bidding one spade (or one heart). I'm not &quot;legally&quot; allowed to say this, but I am allowed to say &quot;double,&quot; which in this context, has the same meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The negative double would be more emphatic if partner had opened one HEART, and opponent had bid two diamonds. Here, the clear implication is that I have four of the remaining major, don't want to bid two spades, and am bidding &quot;one spade&quot; in a roundabout way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T15:49:26.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21055" CreationDate="2014-12-12T15:50:34.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is still your opponents commander and they will get the Lieutenant bonus from the Marshal. This is because being a commander is a property of a card, it doesn't matter if the characteristics of the card have changed at all it will still be their commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A commander that’s been turned face down (due to Ixidron’s effect, for example) is still a commander. A commander that’s copying another card (due to Cytoshape’s effect, for example) is still a commander. A permanent that’s copying a commander (such as a Body Double, for example, copying a commander in a player’s graveyard) is not a commander.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T15:50:34.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21062" CreationDate="2014-12-12T16:12:55.037" Score="14" ViewCount="982" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once and for all: Is there anything that can possibly be done to my commander that would cause it to cease being my commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these questions ask the same thing, but aren't general enough to be marked as a duplicate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/21055/6692&quot;&gt;If a commander becomes a colorless forest, is it still a commander?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is a commander still a commander if&lt;/strong&gt; it gets turned into a forest?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/20772/6692&quot;&gt;Is your commander still a &amp;quot;commander&amp;quot; if it gets turned face down?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is a commander still a commander if&lt;/strong&gt; it gets turned face down?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T18:52:01.040" Title="Can my commander ever not be my commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21056" CreationDate="2014-12-12T16:13:21.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A cost that includes {X} is a variable cost, you can pick any value for {X} that you want and that number is used to determine the effect of the spell, exactly what the variable does is dependent on the text of the spell. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blaze&quot;&gt;Blaze&lt;/a&gt; has a cost of {X}{R} and rules text that says &lt;code&gt;Blaze deals X damage to target creature or player.&lt;/code&gt; so what you do when you cast it is determine how much damage you want to do, this number will be {X}, so if you want to deal 3 damage to your opponent Blaze will cost {3}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards have costs that are {X}{X} like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chalice%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Chalice of the Void&lt;/a&gt;, the way this works is you pick the value you want for X and then pay that twice, so if you want the Chalice to have 2 counters on it you would have to pay {2}{2} or {4} total. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20Cornucopia&quot;&gt;Astral Cornucopia&lt;/a&gt; is similar with its {X}{X}{X} cost but you pay three times X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For cards with {X} in their cost the {X} is assumed to be zero anytime a card cares about its Converted Mana Cost except for when it is on the stack and you have actually payed mana for it. So if you have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Izzet%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Izzet Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; you can use its ability to copy sorceries with a CMC of 2 or less on Blaze only if X is 1 (or 0 but why would you cast it then?). However if you have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primordial%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Primordial Hydra&lt;/a&gt; that you paid {10}{G}{G} for it could still be destroyed by an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt; because on the battlefield its CMC is only 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the {X} is 0 unless you pay mana to cast it this also means that while you can cast them off of effects that allow you to play spell without paying their mana cost like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omniscience&quot;&gt;Omniscience&lt;/a&gt; you have to pick {0} for X, there is no way to cast Blaze with Omniscience and have it deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T16:13:21.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21056" CreationDate="2014-12-12T16:13:48.760" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell with X in its cost, you decide how much X will be and then add that amount to the rest of the spell's cost when you pay it. When the spell resolves, you treat any &quot;X&quot; in the text box of the card as the chosen number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the specific case of Strength of the Tajuru, you choose a number for X, then (assuming you don't kick it) you pay the chosen number mana of any color, plus 2 green mana. When the spell resolves, you add the chosen number of counters to the target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt; has a description of X costs in the glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;X, {X}—Some spells and abilities have effects&#xA;  that change depending on how much mana&#xA;  you use to pay for them. For example, Heat Ray&#xA;  is an instant spell that costs {X}{R} and deals X&#xA;  damage. If you paid {3}{R} to cast it, it would deal&#xA;  3 damage. If you paid {6}{R} to cast it, it would&#xA;  deal 6 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 601.2b&lt;/a&gt; more specifically covers paying for spells with X costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the spell is modal the player announces the mode choice (see rule 700.2). If the player wishes to splice any cards onto the spell (see rule 702.46), he or she reveals those cards in his or her hand. If the spell has alternative or additional costs that will be paid as it's being cast such as buyback or kicker costs (see rules 117.8 and 117.9), the player announces his or her intentions to pay any or all of those costs (see rule 601.2e). A player can't apply two alternative methods of casting or two alternative costs to a single spell. &lt;strong&gt;If the spell has a variable cost that will be paid as it's being cast (such as an {X} in its mana cost; see rule 107.3), the player announces the value of that variable.&lt;/strong&gt; If a cost that will be paid as the spell is being cast includes hybrid mana symbols, the player announces the nonhybrid equivalent cost he or she intends to pay. If a cost that will be paid as the spell is being cast includes Phyrexian mana symbols, the player announces whether he or she intends to pay 2 life or the corresponding colored mana cost for each of those symbols. Previously made choices (such as choosing to cast a spell with flashback from a graveyard or choosing to cast a creature with morph face down) may restrict the player's options when making these choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card with {X} in its cost is in any zone other than the stack, the X is considered to be 0 for the purpose of any calculations. This is specified in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana#Mana_Cost_and_Color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 202.3b&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with an Manax.gif in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object is on the stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one exception is permanents' abilities that need to know about their own mana costs, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Zones)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 400.7c says&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an ability of a permanent requires information about choices made as that permanent was cast as a spell, including what mana was spent to cast that spell, it uses information about the spell that became that permanent as it resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T15:50:45.097" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T15:50:45.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21059" CreationDate="2014-12-12T16:16:54.013" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, 'commander-ness' is an intrinsic property of the card that nothing can take away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A commander that’s been turned face down (due to Ixidron’s effect, for example) is still a commander. A commander that’s copying another card (due to Cytoshape’s effect, for example) is still a commander. A permanent that’s copying a commander (such as a Body Double, for example, copying a commander in a player’s graveyard) is not a commander.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T16:16:54.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21054" CreationDate="2014-12-12T21:29:23.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's your question? Are you asking for the odds of having the following?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Homeworld in play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Blossom in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Nukebot in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Hoverbots in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Zapbots in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 other minions of power &amp;le;2 in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 minions on the top of your deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that's three more cards in your hand than than the maximum hand size, someone would have had to made you draw three cards since your last turn ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say the odds of that are zero, zilch, nada, nul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like you said, it's technically possible for something like Crop Circle to give you the extra cards you need, at which point the following extra restrictions are added to the list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have at least three of the minions that need to be in your hand on a base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player is using Aliens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player has Crop Circles in his hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player uses Crop Circles on that base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Calculating the exact odds is pointless (well, impossible really), but they are infinitesimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then there's the claim that this could give you 15 VP. Even if you manage to pull of your combo, this is far from a sure thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Nukebot and three Hoverbots gives 17 points, which is 6 shy of breaking The Homeworld. Let's say three of the 8 unnamed minions are Microbot Alpha and two Microbot Fixers. Homeworld then sits at 22, so you still have to waste one of your 8 unassigned minions on Homeworld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves you Microbot Alpha (18), two Microbot Fixers (3), four other minions (at +2 of base). That gives you 36-45 power to get 11 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it's possible, but it introduces a slew of new conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have Microbot Alpha in your hand or as one of the top three cards of your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have two Microbot Fixer in your hand or as one of the top three cards of your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The bases in play other than The Homeworld must be able to pay out 11 VP.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There must be at least three bases in addition to The Homeworld. (I only saw 3 base combinations out of 117,600 that permit a two-player win.)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There must be at least three players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your and your opponents must have enough minions on the bases to score four bases.&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget that he just used Crop Circle on you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must have the highest scoring place in at least two of the bases other than The Homeworld.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not gonna happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy lottery tickets. The odds are far better, and so are the rewards. With your winnings, you could build machines to play Smash Up until they pull off the combo. But you'll surely die first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-12T23:28:15.807" LastActivityDate="2014-12-12T23:28:15.807" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21064" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21083" CreationDate="2014-12-12T23:31:16.800" Score="8" ViewCount="5091" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing Settlers of Catan there have been a few instances where one runs out of Settlements or Cities (the pieces). How I have been playing it is that if you don't have it you can't build it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However playing the expansion Cities and Knights for the first time I explored the Politics Calender which gives you the special of &lt;strong&gt;&quot;Fortress: You may promote strong knights to mighty knights&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; Only then did I realize that there are only 2 Mighty Knight Token pieces. If the Politics special is to promote to Mighty Knights but only able to perform this for two knights(if they've not been promoted already) then it seems under powered compared to the other Building tree abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: Can you only play the 2 mighty knights during a game because there are only 2 mighty knight pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10183" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:27:03.180" Title="Settlers of Catan cities and knights mighty knights maximum numbers" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21066" CreationDate="2014-12-13T01:50:06.983" Score="5" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in a game.  I controlled &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prossh&quot;&gt;Prossh&lt;/a&gt; who has an ability that gives him +1/+0 whenever I sacrifice a creature.  After I sacrified 6 creatures to Prossh's ability (+6/+0), my opponent cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snakeform&quot;&gt;Snakeform&lt;/a&gt; which turns it into a 1/1 with no abilities for the turn.  My question is, what is Prossh now?  Would it have been different if I used Prossh's ability in response to the Snakeform cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T02:33:28.390" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:01:17.913" Title="Snakeform and buff ineractions" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21065" CreationDate="2014-12-13T02:29:52.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Prossh will be a 7/1 green snake creature. The different effects are applied in the layer system order. First layer 7b is applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any Power/Toughness setting effects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then layer 7c is applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This covers all effects that modify Power/Toughness so long as they don’t set P/T to a specific value&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first the effect changing your Prossh into a 1/1 is applied, then the +6/+0 is applied. Because the effects take place in 2 separate layers (even though they are both sublayers of layer 7), timestamp order is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you used Prossh's ability in response to Snakeform (while Snakeform is on the stack), then this is no different at all than the other way; in either case Prossh's ability has resolved before Snakeform has resolved. And you cannot use Prossh's ability after Snakeform resolves, because at that point Prossh no longer has any abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More details on the layer system can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150916173223/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=judge/article/20091105a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules detailing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied. Effects that refer to the base power and/or toughness of a creature apply in this layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3c Layer 7c: Effects that modify power and/or toughness (but don't set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value) are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-21T15:01:17.913" LastActivityDate="2022-06-21T15:01:17.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-13T03:56:10.760" Score="10" ViewCount="4365" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent declared attack with a flying creature, after that I declared a blocker with my own flying creature. He then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turn%20to%20Frog&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt;, targeting my blocker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My creature was a 6/6 flying, my opponent had a 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The judge said that after he casts Turn to Frog my creature still blocks the flying but turned to 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it correct that my creature still blocks the flying creature but becomes a 1/1 before dealing and taking damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10184" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T16:54:49.453" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T23:06:45.990" Title="If a creature loses flying after blockers are declared, is the block still legal?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21067" CreationDate="2014-12-13T04:33:44.187" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, evasion abilities such as Flying only affect the declare blockers step. Once blockers are declared, flying no longer makes any difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1b The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it’s affected by any restrictions (effects that say a creature can’t block, or that it can’t block unless some condition is met). If any restrictions are being disobeyed, the declaration of blockers is illegal.::: A restriction may be created by an evasion ability (a static ability an attacking creature has that restricts what can block it). &lt;strong&gt;If an attacking creature gains or loses an evasion ability after a legal block has been declared, it doesn’t affect that block.&lt;/strong&gt; Different evasion abilities are cumulative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your creature will be a 1/1 before doing or taking any damage, because Combat Damage step happens after declare blockers step. Your opponent was able to cast Turn to Frog during the declare blockers step, after blockers had been assigned; which is before the combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat phase is divided as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;507&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Beginning of Combat Step - Players can cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers Step - After attackers are declared, players can cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers Step - After blockers are declared, players can cast spells and activate abilities. (This is when your opponent was able to cast Turn to Frog)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Combat Damage Step &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;End of Combat Step - Players can cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2017-11-13T23:06:45.990" LastActivityDate="2017-11-13T23:06:45.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20522" CreationDate="2014-12-13T07:27:41.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is either 30 or 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;murgatroid99's answer actually shows that at least 30 moves are required. That is, it actually takes a minimum of 88 marble moves to get from the starting position to the ending position, which means it takes at least 88/3 &gt; 29 moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, here is an explicit strategy that involves 31 moves. Start by pushing forward two adjacent &quot;vertical threesomes&quot; (like the one in the example move for white above and the threesome immediately to its right. Then you have 3 marbles in the first row, 6 in the second (thought of as two groups of three), 3 in the third, and 2 in the fourth. You can move the 2 in the fourth to the bottom row in 5 moves and then use 6 moves on each of the remaining horizontal groups of three into the final position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10186" LastActivityDate="2014-12-13T07:27:41.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21073" CreationDate="2014-12-13T18:52:56.183" Score="3" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a deck I am working on that I cannot find all the cards for yet. For use in casual play I have put in proxies that are land cards with the name of the card written on them. If I end up playing with the deck in an official tournament and forget to switch the proxies out will I still be able to use those as lands? Obviously they cannot be used as the card they are a proxy for, but does having them marked affect their legality as the card they actually are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2014-12-13T20:00:08.543" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T17:35:04.277" Title="Does marking a card affect its legality?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21071" CreationDate="2014-12-13T19:04:43.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are probably ok to use those lands legally in a tournament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy#4540&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;marked cards&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A card or sleeve is considered marked if it bears something that makes it possible to identify the card without seeing its face, including scratches, discoloration, and bends.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any writing on a basic-land (not on the back) would be fine as long as it is not excessive.  And even then, you are fine for basic lands because, &quot;If a player is required to replace a card in his or her deck and is unable to find a replacement, the player may replace the card with a basic land card of his or her choice.&quot;  This means you will never be hurting for basic lands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="10162" LastEditDate="2014-12-14T06:33:18.310" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T06:33:18.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21071" CreationDate="2014-12-13T19:50:08.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use those cards as lands, as long as they are clearly those basic lands. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy#4532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tournament rules on acceptable cards&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Artistic modifications are acceptable in sanctioned tournaments, provided that the modifications do not make the card art unrecognizable, contain substantial strategic advice, or contain offensive images. Artistic modifications also may not obstruct or change the mana cost or name of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, that rule also says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Head Judge is the final authority on acceptable cards for a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's up to the Head Judge to make the final decision about whether you can use those cards as lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; use them as the cards they are proxying in a tournament. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy#4533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official proxy tournament policy&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A proxy card is used during competition to represent an Authorized Game Card &lt;strong&gt;that has been accidentally damaged or excessively worn in the current tournament&lt;/strong&gt; (including damaged or misprinted Limited product) as determined solely by the Head Judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players may not create their own proxies&lt;/strong&gt;; they may only be created by the Head Judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can't even use a proxy card in your deck unless it is replacing a card that was &lt;strong&gt;accidentally&lt;/strong&gt; damaged &lt;strong&gt;during that tournament&lt;/strong&gt;, and you can't use proxies that you make yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T17:35:04.277" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T17:35:04.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21074" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T07:08:26.087" Score="0" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know if there is any standard penalty for when someone breaks a rule in a trick taking game, especially failing to follow suit when required.  I know the penalty would depend on the game, but all I could find is this &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revoke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, which suggested some rather harsh penalties, especially for new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for more lax penalties for less experienced players, especially for Spades and Hearts.  The best I've come up with is trying to reverse play when possible, but that doesn't always work, especially when the error is discovered many tricks later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T22:32:35.563" Title="Casual trick taking penalties for illegal plays" Tags="|house-rules|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T07:39:58.463" Score="2" ViewCount="800" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am arranging a white elephant gift exchange game. In previous years, guests were too polite, refusing to steal gifts from others, so the game amounted to nothing more than people choosing a number from a hat and then choosing a gift from the table in the order of their numbers. Are there any steps I can add to the game to motivate people to overcome their politeness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2552" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T07:49:08.800" Title="How to encourage stealing of gifts in a white elephant gift exchange?" Tags="|party|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2014-12-15T22:50:54.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21075" CreationDate="2014-12-14T07:49:08.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's simple. Get two secret gifts worth at least as much as the exchange. At the end of the exchange, everyone votes for the most devious steal. Both the thief and the victim get one of the surprise gifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And great times were had by all!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T07:49:08.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21077" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T11:02:30.843" Score="0" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Magic 2014 - Duels of the Planeswalkers (DotP) on Steam. I understand all of the basics except for one thing! In a recent battle, my turn started and I did not draw a card. The game went directly to my End phase. My Main and Combat phases were skipped. This happened for five or more turns in a row!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cards in Magic 2014 DotP that stop a player from drawing cards, or skip a draw step? Are there any settings that could cause my Main and Combat phases to be skipped when my hand is empty? Is this a bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10190" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T15:50:54.713" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T19:27:06.707" Title="Why am I unable to draw cards in Magic 2014?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T13:04:43.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have any unit that was more than one attack and the unit is dual wielding how many attacks does he have? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. if a unit has 3 attacks but is dual wielding, does he in turn have 4 attacks or does he get a total of 6 attacks as a result of 3 attacks with the dual wield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10191" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T08:11:20.497" Title="Warhammer Fantasy Dual Wield Ruling" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21064" CreationDate="2014-12-14T14:07:08.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, like the Settlements and Cities, you are constrained by the number of knights you have to promote to Mighty knights (or any other type) 2 of each.  You can always make house rules but the game was designed with the specific number of pieces they sent along.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T14:07:08.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21077" CreationDate="2014-12-14T14:47:47.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of your turn, you draw 1 card. In a two player game, the start player does not draw a card at the start of his first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a computer version of MTG did not let you draw a card at the start of each turn, then either there was some sort of bug, or it was a special mode that changes the normal rules of Magic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T14:47:47.710" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21109" CreationDate="2014-12-14T19:08:19.517" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;On some cards I've read &quot;Place to one side&quot; and I couldn't understand does that mean that it is removed? If said for a building does it mean that it is destroyed or has a different meaning? I couldn't find that in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card that baffled me was Bloody Stupid Johnson: &quot;Roll the die. If the City Area card of the same value is in play then that card is placed to one side. The owner of the card must also remove one of his minions from the same area as the card.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this played out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8194" LastEditorUserId="8194" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T15:08:58.990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T08:38:21.223" Title="Ahn'Morpork: Placed to one side" Tags="|discworld-ankh-morpork|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21082" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-14T20:26:10.157" Score="2" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Arkham Horror, and using The King In Yellow expansion and herald, can The King In Yellow be used as the ancient one as well, or does using it as the herald mean it should not be the ancient one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both can be used at together/at the same time, are any special modifications needed to the gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10194" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T12:33:13.243" Title="Can Arkham Horror be played with both The King In Yellow herald, and The King in Yellow ancient one?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21064" CreationDate="2014-12-14T22:45:24.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are always limited to the number of pieces you have, no matter what that piece is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Cities and Knights, the Fortress does only allow you to upgrade your two strong knights (level 2) to mighty knights (level 3), which in itself is only an upgrade of 2 strength. However, in doing so, it also means that you can have up to six knights on the board - 2 of each level - compared to the 4 you can build without the Fortress. And in terms of total strength, you go from a maximum of 6 to a maximum of 12, so you're actually doubling your capacity to defend against the barbarian. And that's not even looking at the options of displacing strong knights on your roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2014-12-14T22:45:24.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21074" CreationDate="2014-12-15T00:39:42.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally when I play games like that and a miss play is caught before the next trick is played then the play is corrected.  However if it is caught later then the player that messed up losses the hand. In hearts for example they would take all 26 points and everyone else would get 0. In a game where you want points they take the penalty for not getting the minimum bid or whatever they bid. This seems to be a quick and fair way to handle miss plays that you can't correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may sound harsh but following suit in a card game should be a very simple strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only other option is to throw out the hand and redo it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T01:21:56.023" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T01:21:56.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-15T02:45:44.543" Score="5" ViewCount="885" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy Citadels, but find the game can often quite a long time. Since players must draft their role card in sequence, there ends up being a lot of down time while other players make their selections. The game is particularly prone to analysis-paralysis. Even limiting the game to a small number of players (4 or 5) and triggering the end game sooner (first player to build 7 buildings instead of 8), the game can still draw out. Any more ideas on how to improve the flow of this otherwise great game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3661" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T15:19:12.753" Title="House rules to speed up Citadels play time?" Tags="|house-rules|citadels|play-time|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21088" CreationDate="2014-12-15T07:07:43.753" Score="9" ViewCount="21514" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many older cards refer to players or opponents, e.g. &amp;quot;deal 3 damage to target player&amp;quot;. Can any of these be used on planeswalkers, beyond the fact that you can simply attack them with creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would my opponent discard a card if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypnotic%20Specter&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Specter&lt;/a&gt; damaged a planeswalker they control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would my opponent, the planeswalker, neither, or both amass poison counters from an unblocked &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nafs%20Asp&quot;&gt;Nafs Asp&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; target a planeswalker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Syphon%20Soul&quot;&gt;Syphon Soul&lt;/a&gt; affect planeswalkers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oasis&quot;&gt;Oasis&lt;/a&gt; prevent damage to a Planeswalker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Veteran%20Bodyguard&quot;&gt;Veteran Bodyguard&lt;/a&gt; be obligated to take damage being dealt to a planeswalker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can a planeswalker gain loyalty from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Healing%20Salve&quot;&gt;Healing Salve&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Healing%20Salve&quot;&gt;Healing Salve&lt;/a&gt; prevent damage to a planeswalker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:33:39.700" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T11:33:39.700" Title="Can older cards that refer to a player/opponent ever be used on planeswalkers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2014-12-15T07:27:25.847" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers are never treated as opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your specific questions: no, no, no, no, no, no, and no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T07:27:25.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2014-12-15T07:29:09.283" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers are not players (or opponents), and they're never treated as players (or opponents). Don't think of them as players, and you'll be a lot less likely to get confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's pretty much just a single rule that make them seem a little similar to players: you can choose to attack your opponent and/or planeswalkers they control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Along with that, many cards will let you target a player or a planeswalker, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLava%20Axe%5d&quot;&gt;Lava Axe&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;target player or planeswalker&quot;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Strike%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;any target&quot;, which includes planeswalkers. (Note that thanks to some updates to the game, some older printings of cards may not make this clear, e.g. Lava Axe used to just say &quot;target player&quot;, and Lightning Strike used to just say &quot;target creature or player&quot;; always check Gatherer for the current oracle text of a card if you need to be sure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's it. None of that actually treats planeswalkers as players; it just lets something happen to them that's similar to what can happen to your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no similar rules for any of the things you mentioned, so the direct answer to every one of your questions is no. There is &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; not a blanket revision from &quot;target player&quot; to &quot;target player or planeswalker&quot;. (A ton of things that say &quot;player&quot; wouldn't even make sense for planeswalkers - sure, they can take damage, but they don't have hands, libraries, graveyards, or even life!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address your questions in a little more detail (some things do still work, just not directly):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hypnotic Specter - no, attacking the planeswalker won't make your opponent discard. If you want your opponent to discard, attack them, not the planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nafs Asp (poison counters) - no, planeswalkers can't have poison counters; if it deals damage to one it'll remove loyalty as usual. If you want to give poison counters to your opponent, attack them, not the planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lightning Bolt - yes, it can target a planeswalker - it now says &quot;any target&quot;. Again, note that older printings don't mention planeswalkers, but the current oracle text is updated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Syphon Soul - no, it doesn't deal damage to planeswalkers, just players.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Veteran Bodyguard - no, it won't protect planeswalkers, since combat damage is dealt directly to the planeswalker and Veteran Bodyguard's effect never applies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Healing Salve (gaining loyalty) - no. It can't target planeswalkers, and planeswalkers can't gain life (only players have life).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Healing Salve (preventing damage) - no, you can't target planeswalkers with it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond oracle updates (&quot;target player&quot; to &quot;target player or planeswalker&quot; and similar), the only other way that older cards are likely to literally target a planeswalker is if they say something like &quot;target permanent&quot; or &quot;target nonland permanent&quot;; planeswalkers are permanents too, so for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDesert%20Twister%5d&quot;&gt;Desert Twister&lt;/a&gt; can target and destroy planeswalkers, despite being printed in 1993!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I've entirely removed sections about the planeswalker redirection rule, which existed in the past but is no more. See the revision history if you're curious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2018-09-20T17:50:30.687" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T17:50:30.687" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21086" CreationDate="2014-12-15T07:30:15.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Planeswalker is never a player. Spells that target a player can't target a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, noncombat damage can be &lt;strong&gt;redirected&lt;/strong&gt; to a planeswalker (damage only, not lifeloss), but it doesn't affect the player anymore when you do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So cards like Hypnotic Specter won't cause the opponent to discard a card if damage is redirected, since the damage is redirected to the planeswalker, and the player takes no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T14:27:15.593" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T14:27:15.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21078" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:12:52.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If u ask about Warhammer fantasy battle, 2 hand weapons or additional hand weapon gives the unit extra attack. So unit with 3A and 2 hand weapons have 4 attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10198" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:12:52.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18809" CreationDate="2014-12-15T11:53:30.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From rulebook:&#xA;&quot;Expendable: After a card with the Expendable&#xA;keyword is destroyed, the player who&#xA;controlled it last draws a card.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Action cards are not destroyed after beeing played so keyword isn't triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10198" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T11:53:30.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21082" CreationDate="2014-12-15T12:33:13.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, there is no specific King in Yellow great old one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about Hastur as the great old one, that's a different story.  Thematically, The King in Yellow is actually Hastur's avatar.  So, in that sense, it might make perfect sense to use both of them in conjunction.  Mechanically, they're just two parts of the game board that don't need special treatment to use together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T12:33:13.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21085" CreationDate="2014-12-15T15:44:47.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a crude instrument but you could try running a timer on decisions then deducting a player one gold OR their lowest value building if they exceed say, 2 minutes on a decision. I'll be honest and say I haven't tried this myself but my group tend to play quite fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10203" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T15:44:47.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21098" CreationDate="2014-12-15T15:49:06.597" Score="6" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nature Shields Its Own&lt;/a&gt; is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160117184704/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/archenemy/productinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archenemy&lt;/a&gt; scheme that creates a blocking creature (green plant) any time the Archenemy is attacked and the attack is not blocked. We ran into a few issues last night playing this scheme in a game. The Archenemy was attacked by a flying creature as well as one with protection from Green. Neither was blocked, and a plant was created blocking each. The part we did not understand was whether the plant tokens could actually block the attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do abilities that say &amp;quot;Create creature X blocking attacking creature Y.&amp;quot; allow X to block Y even if normally X could not be declared as a blocker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T05:37:48.250" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T05:37:48.250" Title="Can a card effect make a creature block one that it otherwise could not?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21097" CreationDate="2014-12-15T15:56:40.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the creatures will still be blocked by tokens. See the ruling on Nature Shields its Own:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Plant token blocks the attacking creature even if the block couldn't legally be declared (for example, if the attacking creature has flying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because things like flying and protection only affect the declare blockers step. The prevent a creature from being declared as a blocker. But Nature Shields its Own kicks in at the end of the declare blockers step; it is not affected by evasion abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T15:56:40.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21097" CreationDate="2014-12-15T18:01:03.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Declaring a creature as a blocker is different from an attacker being blocked. Declaring a blocker requires meeting requirements and restrictions for blocking (such as only blocking flying creatures with a flying or reach creature). Being blocked means that you deal damage to the blocking creature(s) instead of the defending player (or with trample, deal damage to the blockers first). While the former is the &lt;em&gt;normal&lt;/em&gt; means of achieving the latter, it is not the only means of doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is even possible to have an attacker become blocked &lt;em&gt;without any blocking creature in existence.&lt;/em&gt; See for example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curtain%20of%20Light&quot;&gt;Curtain of Light&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dazzling%20Beauty&quot;&gt;Dazzling Beauty&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fog%20Patch&quot;&gt;Fog Patch&lt;/a&gt;. These cards cause a creature to become blocked, but there is no creature card or creature token actually &lt;em&gt;doing&lt;/em&gt; the blocking. (This is functionally similar to being blocked by a 0/0 creature. The attacker isn't going to take any combat damage, and an attacker with trample will still be able to send all of its damage through.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-12-15T20:02:50.527" LastActivityDate="2014-12-15T20:02:50.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20905" CreationDate="2014-12-15T23:14:00.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording of the card is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you &lt;strong&gt;explore&lt;/strong&gt;, treat the room as if it were in darkness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Empahsis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, darkness forces you to spend a &lt;strong&gt;movement&lt;/strong&gt; step in addition to the regular &lt;strong&gt;action&lt;/strong&gt; step to explore and to also receive &lt;strong&gt;-2&lt;/strong&gt; to attribute tests in combat. This card just makes it so that whenever you explore, you apply the penalty of spending an additional &lt;strong&gt;movement&lt;/strong&gt; step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This trauma doesn't affect combat. If the player with the trauma is not exploring, penalty doesnt apply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, the room is technically &lt;strong&gt;not in darkness&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this, I would rule it as invalid as playing a card that required a room to be in darkness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T21:46:28.813" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T21:46:28.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21103" CreationDate="2014-12-15T23:20:32.760" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Played a game yesterday where, during setup, the first gate was supposed to open on the Science Building. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Kate also starts there and her special ability is that gates do not open on her location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We decided that the game started without any open gates instead of drawing another mythos card for setup. Was this the correct ruling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T00:02:07.187" Title="Is it valid to start a game without an open gate?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21102" CreationDate="2014-12-16T00:02:07.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason you would draw another Mythos card would be if it was a Rumor. Otherwise the first Mythos works just like every subsequent Mythos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T00:02:07.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21112" CreationDate="2014-12-16T02:47:45.080" Score="6" ViewCount="1096" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In a two-player game, why would one player ever trade with another?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm working on a new game for my publisher at the moment, and this question is coming up at work.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a three player game, with Alice, Bob, and Charlie.  Alice and Bob are considering making a deal.  This deal would help Alice a lot, and it would help Bob some, but not as much.  Alice is certainly getting more out of it than Bob, but Bob still might agree to it, as it still helps Bob get ahead of Charlie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine the same game with only two players -- Charlie isn't in the picture.  Alice proposes the same deal to Bob, one that helps Alice a lot and Bob only a little.  Bob has no reason to agree to this deal now, since it doesn't help him get ahead of anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can a two player game have trade deals between players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T15:43:27.903" Title="Trading in two-player games" Tags="|game-design|trading|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21107" CreationDate="2014-12-16T03:09:12.617" Score="10" ViewCount="27696" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have enough points to win on your turn, but only by including your unrevealed VP development cards, are you forced to win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. I have three cities (6 VP), three settlements (3 VP), and I buy a development card, which ends up being a victory point card. Can I wait until my next turn where I believe I'll have a chance to steal longest road, and end the game on 12 VP, or do I need to declare victory now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why I ask is that we keep a running total of stats from the games we've played over the years, and finishing on a higher total would bring up my average VP per game score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10206" LastActivityDate="2017-07-14T00:35:06.290" Title="In Settlers of Catan, if you have unrevealed victory point cards that would make you win, are you forced to declare victory?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-16T03:49:56.550" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One simple way to do this is to make sure that each player has information that the other does not have. For example, each can have a hand of cards that only they can see. This way, for some trades, each player can think that they are getting the better end of the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to have different goals for each player, possibly role-based or randomly chosen. That way, it can become harder to determine or even define who is getting the better end of a trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T03:49:56.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21105" CreationDate="2014-12-16T04:10:03.570" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have won the game as soon as your have 10 points on your turn, there is no requirement to &quot;declare&quot; victory. So no, you cannot keep playing extra rounds. From the official FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Victory Conditions - May I continue scoring points after having reached the number of victory points required for a win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;This could make sense in a private tournament where the scores from several games are added up. For individual games and official tournaments, the following applies: You have won as soon as you have reached the required number of victory points on your turn – and then the game is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4613-victory-conditions-may-i-continue-scoring-points-after-having-reached-number-victory-points&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/faq/4613-victory-conditions-may-i-continue-scoring-points-after-having-reached-number-victory-points&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Victory Conditions - What if someone has reached the required number of victory points for a win but is unaware of it? Did this player win anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Yes. The game ends as soon as a player has reached the required number of victory points on his turn. If he’s unaware of it, you should tell him, because you can’t take an already gained victory away from him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4616-victory-conditions-what-if-someone-has-reached-required-number-victory-points-for-win&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/faq/4616-victory-conditions-what-if-someone-has-reached-required-number-victory-points-for-win&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you have the point from VP development cards as soon as you buy the card. You don't &quot;play&quot; the development card to get the points; you already have those points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T03:38:20.043" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T03:38:20.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T05:23:12.983" Score="1" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you apply damage to an outfit, and then activate the outfit multiple times (such as shields), do you apply the penalty to the total of all the dice, or to each individual die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For exampl,e my Tier 1 shield has 1 damage. I activate two spaces (for 2d6). Would my total defense be 2d6-1 or 1d6-1 and 1d6-1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10207" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T11:42:19.313" Title="Xia: damage on outfits and rolls" Tags="|xia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21081" CreationDate="2014-12-16T08:38:21.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bloody Stupid Johnson works like this: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;You roll for a random city area. When you roll an area that contains a building, the owner of that building has to put the corresponding area card away. The card says &quot;to one side&quot; but the important thing here is that the area card is removed from play. The building is still there, it still counts as a building for all intents and purposes (win conditions, for instance), but the owner can no longer use the power on the area card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/700410/bloody-stupid-johnson-combo-fire-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to Martin Wallace&lt;/a&gt;, the designer of the game, the card is back in the game if the bulding gets destroyed and subsequently rebuilt (by the same player or another). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T08:38:21.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-16T09:43:26.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to make players trade with each other is diversified resource system. For example if 1 player will use his starting resources to be able to produce 1 type of resources he won't be able to produce other. For example if player 1 spent his starting gold to build a quarry he will be able to produce stone but he may need other resource like wood to make progress in game. Therefore he will have to trade with other players who also will need resources they can't produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10198" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T09:43:26.430" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21108" CreationDate="2014-12-16T11:42:19.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You add the penalty to each individual use of the outfit. So yes, if you activate a d6 shield twice and that outfit has one damage on it you would -1 from both dice rolls individually&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T11:42:19.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-16T11:57:19.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trading in a 2 player game is a difficult problem. You can have some form of forced trading. For example player 1 (after getting granted a &lt;em&gt;trade action&lt;/em&gt; somehow) can name a resource, which player 2, has to give them if they have it, while player 2 gets to name a different resource which player 1 has to give them if they have it. If you name a resource the other player doesn't have, they can give you whatever they want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can have trades via a third-party, such as a bank. The bank can start with some resources, and if you want something from the bank, you have to give the bank a resource it currently doesn't have. You then deplete the bank of the one it previously had, and the other player can then trade that resource for the one you gave the bank, if they want to. In this way the bank acts as a avenue for trades between players, but each trade with the bank is assessed on it's merits, plus the worry the other player might later benefit, or they might trade for the resource you want later, meaning you should trade now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T11:57:19.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-16T13:34:25.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mutual equally beneficial actions for all parties involved in a game does not provide anything to the contest aspect of games, which are often the entire point of 2 player games. Imagine a chess game where both players decided to remove all pieces except the king and queen and 2 bishops. What's the point? It simply moves the game towards the end faster with no added complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As suggested, it could have some potential in games where each player has limited knowledge. However - this can very easily make the games so much more random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's a 50/50 chance that the game is in a state where the trade will benefit my opponent more than it will benefit me, is it worth taking that risk?&#xA;If the odds that the trade will benefit me is against me, why would I ever agree to the trade? Yes if I'm behind it could potentially give me a leg up, but then why would my opponent agree to the trade if he's already ahead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally I appreciate games where RNG is a very small factor. But some people enjoy guessing, bluffing and taking risks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it stood to me, trading should never be a part of 2 player games. If you are working on a game with trading that allows different number of players, I would personally recommend making special rule exceptions to 2-player games disallowing trading. Possibly allowing bank-trading with a slight disadvantage in trade value. Really depends on the game, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T13:34:25.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2014-12-16T14:21:23.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even ignoring all the aforementioned reasons in the others answers, I would simplify saying that  it's just not fun to play with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried playing with my friend using only Homelands set cards and it was horrible. You couldn't do any interesting combination, no strategy. You feel powerless, impotent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of people (kids at the time) bought large quantities of Homelands boosters because they were cheaper than the alternative (Revised, fourth edition, Ice Age, Mirage), only to realise the cards were unplayable. People ended up hating the set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more in depth details, you can listen to the episode 25 of Drive to Work podcast by Mark Rosewater. Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://podbay.fm/show/580709168/e/1363336380?autostart=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;direct link&lt;/a&gt;, but you can find in most of the podcasting apps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10210" LastEditorUserId="10210" LastEditDate="2018-09-11T12:13:07.267" LastActivityDate="2018-09-11T12:13:07.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-16T15:50:49.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Catan Junior uses a third-party to assist in trading.  There are five types of resources you can gather.  The marketplace starts with one of each resource.  On your turn, you can trade one time with the marketplace.  Once the marketplace ends up with all 5 of the same resource, it resets to its initial state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a game theory perspective, an optional mutually beneficial trade between the opponents in a two-player game is unlikely to exist, at least if you only consider games among good players.  If you have a game of perfect information, a player would not agree to a trade that worsens his position relative to the other player.  Therefore, no trades would ever be made in those games.  In a game of imperfect information, a good player will still have a general sense of the expected value of a specific trade of move.  A trade would require that each player believes that the trade will improve his position relative to the opponent, &lt;strong&gt;while also knowing that the opponent believes the same thing&lt;/strong&gt;.  I don't think it's possible to have such a mechanic (though I would be interested to hear of a game that has one)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is another way to look at it.  Consider that there are frequently conceptual &quot;resources&quot; of tempo, material, position, and score.  When you make a move that affects your opponent, you are basically choosing to trade some of your resources for some of the opponents resources.  However, you are dictating all the terms and conditions of the trade and the opponent &lt;B&gt;is forced to accept the trade.&lt;/B&gt;  (In a game where the opponent can make a defensive or reactionary move, that is essentially a separate trade that the opponent is setting the terms of and which you are forced to accept).  If you needed your opponent's permission before you could attack, most games would be completely non-playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T15:50:49.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-16T17:03:40.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/43443/castle-panic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Castle Panic&lt;/a&gt; is an excellent example of a game that does exactly what you describe.  The game has two goals.  The first, is the players &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; cooperate to defend the castle from the oncoming hoards, if they don't, they'll lose.  The second goal is to be the winner by killing the most monsters.  As others have pointed out, there needs to be something forcing the trading, and castle panic handles this issue perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One key aspect of this trading system, is that the invading hoards are changing position all the time, the game state is difficult to predict more than a turn or two in the future.  So there is little point in hoarding cards.  Additionally some cards are clearly completely worthless to one player in the short term, while potentially very useful to another, so even though both player's hands are hidden (a point suggested by murgatroid), revealing that you have a useless card doesn't have much impact, and facilitates the trades.  (What's worthless to me, can be incredibly value to you based upon the context of the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T17:03:40.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21117" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-16T17:45:47.493" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T17:45:47.493" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T17:45:47.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21118" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-16T17:45:47.493" Score="0" Body="An competitive exploration / negotiation game for 3 or 4 players. Each player assumes control of a race of space explorers and harvests resources, negotiates trades and avoids space pirates to be the first to win 15 victory points and the Galactic Council Ambassador post." OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T22:19:37.673" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T22:19:37.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21120" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21145" CreationDate="2014-12-16T18:31:49.847" Score="1" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the card text for Mjolnir &quot;Thor's Hammer&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deal 4 damage to all characters other than Thor (yours and your opponent's). * Deal 5 damage instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, Storm &quot;Weather Witch&quot; would also be immune to Mjolnir's damage, which is a useful player advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:08:39.463" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:08:39.463" Title="Is Mjolnir an Action Die?" Tags="|dice-masters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21121" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2014-12-16T18:35:28.140" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T18:35:28.140" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T18:35:28.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21122" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2014-12-16T18:35:28.140" Score="0" Body="A collectible game for two players who control a team of super-powered characters from comic books, cartoons and other universes. Players field characters with dice determining the character stats and cards determining character special abilities, and players can buy blind-packed boosters with 2 dice and 2 cards in each pack." OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="752" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T22:35:13.627" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T22:35:13.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2014-12-16T20:07:47.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With some experience as England and Russia, I can say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;England:&#xA;England is a safe country. Negotiate with France or Russia (one of the two) and then attack the other and raid the neutral territories they might want (Spain/Belgium or Sweden/Norway). Make lots of fleets and dominate the coastlines before using the convoy order to move further inland. England will not lose very often due to their position in the ocean and they can survive until the later game with their ally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Russia:&#xA;Russia, unlike all the other countries, has 4 starting supply centers. This can work to their advantage as they can multitask and build more than any other country. You want to take Scandinavia early on- Norway is much more vulnerable but much more vital than Sweden is. Meanwhile, ally Turkey and kill Austria Hungary (Italy and Germany may help). Once you have done this, use your navy to defend against England (if they attack you) or use your army to squash Germany (whoever has Munich wins the game, it has been said). Russia is a strong faction, but in case of a backstabbing, it is hard to defend yourself and if you let your allies get too strong, you won't last long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10214" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T20:07:47.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2014-12-16T22:24:33.660" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;most handicap systems handicap permanently, 1 less card, 1 smaller hand, 5 less life etc.&#xA;this usally can be majorly detrimental.&#xA;also most effects are to clunky -1 card may be too little, but -2 too much mainly as the effect is permanant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest a delayed return to normality.&#xA;in my example your draw is behind (nearly-it moves to the end of the turn) 1 turn, your hand size is X smaller, decreasing by 1 each turn until the handicap has faded. at this point the draw delay is removed.&#xA;as its granualer you can have multiple players with multiple hadicaps and the handcaps can shift to adjust for skill/deck improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I havent tested it too well but i believe that the max rating is likely 10 more than the weakest player. above 7 the negatives level off a little.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;POWER RATING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)Each player/deck combination has a POWER rating. Starting rating is 0*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)High POWER ratings indicate better players and/or decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)when a game is won, if any losing player has zero POWER increase your power by 1/3 of number of players beaten, rounded up. Otherwise all losing players decrease thier POWER by 1**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PLAYING&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1)calculate your game handicap:minus the lowest POWER of the people playing from your POWER.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2)all players draw the largest off 7 or the highest handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)Mulligan as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4)shuffle you hand and deal your handicap amount into a seperate pile(your handicap location or HL)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5)As long as there are cards in an HL the maximum hand size is equal to the largest off 7 or the highest handicap.***&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6)during your draw phase if you have an HL you draw one less card and move one card from your libray to your HL****&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7)at the end of your turn, after discard, draw two cards from your HL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTES&#xA;*Ratings are for deck\player so if a deck changes hands or is significatly altered POWER is reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**this means +1 power for 2-4 player games,+2 for 5 - 7 player +3 for 10 - 12 player etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;***In high handicap games, the max hand size change does not apply, in the turn of the player who clears thier HL as the discard phase has passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10216" LastEditorUserId="10216" LastEditDate="2014-12-16T22:30:16.383" LastActivityDate="2014-12-16T22:30:16.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-16T23:59:56.643" Score="2" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my battleship does a bombardment, can the battleship stay on the board for the remainder of the turn and get the 2 hit advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My battleship comes in with a transport and some infantry men. The battleship does a bombardment. After my attack, I defend. If the defending player gets a hit, can I allocate that hit to my battleship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10218" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T01:45:26.213" Title="1942 Battle Ship Bombardment" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21131" CreationDate="2014-12-17T11:18:37.713" Score="14" ViewCount="5499" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play a spell with {X} in the mana cost, and I have a card out that reduces the casting cost by 2 generic mana, what happens to the X? Does it start at -2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcane%20Melee&quot;&gt;Arcane Melee&lt;/a&gt; in play. If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prosperity&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt; for just 1 blue mana, do we draw 2 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10183" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T21:43:46.433" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T09:11:32.683" Title="How do I handle casting a spell with a cost of X when the casting cost is reduced?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21129" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-17T11:28:50.080" Score="10" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know origin of smaller go boards (9*9,13*13)? When (and where) was first introduced? I looked on Sensei library but didn't find anything about history of go boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10222" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T08:37:26.980" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T18:46:46.363" Title="Small go board history" Tags="|go|history|goban|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21085" CreationDate="2014-12-17T11:52:20.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played this game intensely a few years ago with 2 and 3 players (sometimes up to 4) and the analysy-paralysis problem disappeared after, say, 2-3 games with the same group.&#xA;I tried the same solution of lowering to 7 buildings (in fact, it is even suggested on the rulebook) and worked quite well for 2 players, never tried it with 3-4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally think the hard time-limit is a too crude option. I'll try instead to insist on the players to 'think fast' in order to make a more agile game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that you can begin to think about which characters are the best for you on advance, while other players make their choose. And never forget that a little randomness on your decissions are desirable, as you'll be a perfect target for assassination and/or robbering the moment you become too predictable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6918" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T11:52:20.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21128" CreationDate="2014-12-17T12:08:44.823" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When you cast a spell with X in its mana cost, you first choose X, then calculate the total cost including cost reduction, then you pay the resulting amount. Effectively, when a spell's cost is reduced by 2, you can cast it for X=2 for the same mana cost as with X=0&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to cast a spell with X anywhere in the card's text (usually the casting cost), you have to announce which value X is going to have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2b [..] If the spell has a variable cost that will be paid as it's being cast (such as an {X} in its mana cost; see rule 107.3), the player announces the value of that variable.[..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you calculate the actual mana cost that you have to pay, at which time you consider cards like Arcane Melee. Arcane Melee only reduces generic mana costs, and any value below zero is considered zero, so there is no such thing as -2 generic mana:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2f The player determines the total cost of the spell.[..] The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions. If multiple cost reductions apply, the player may apply them in any order. If the mana component of the total cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered to be {0}. It can't be reduced to less than {0}. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally you pay the calculated amount:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h The player pays the total cost in any order. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you are correct in that you could announce Prosperity with X=2 and pay only {U} with Arcane Melee in play. You could also announce it with X=1 or X=0 if you want, drawing one or no card. In those cases, you would still pay {U}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2019-04-26T09:11:32.683" LastActivityDate="2019-04-26T09:11:32.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21133" CreationDate="2014-12-17T14:26:56.473" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Prince Aaron's ability reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;All Enemies Close to him have -2 defense against attacks made by him or his Allies.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;code&gt;-2 defense&lt;/code&gt; mean &lt;code&gt;-2 defense dice&lt;/code&gt; that the target gets to roll or does it mean that the target gets to roll his/her defense dice but has to subtract 2 from the result? If the latter, then does the subtracted defense still count as &quot;saves&quot;? For example, if the target rolls 3 shield after being attacked by Prince Aaron from a Close space, does that count as 3 saves or 1 save even though in the end the target only cancels out 1 hit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crossposted on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1286345/prince-aarons-ability-clarification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T18:40:02.257" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T18:40:02.257" Title="AQ Prince Aaron ability clarification" Tags="|arcadia-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21133" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21132" CreationDate="2014-12-17T16:12:02.960" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Throughout the rules, &quot;Defense&quot; refers to the number of dice rolled in defense of attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the targeted Character has any Defense listed on his card, the player controlling him gathers a number of white Defense dice equal to that character’s Defense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:12:02.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21105" CreationDate="2014-12-17T16:15:58.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key thing that nobody here has yet clearly and explicitly stated is this, from the rules on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(From Victory Point Card section):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only reveal your Victory Point Cards when you or someone else wins the game! Keep Victory Point Cards hidden until you have 10 points during your turn and you can declare victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you keep your VP cards secret, but they still count towards your goal.  Once you reach 10 VPs, you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important note (from Development Card section):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not, however, play a card that you bought during the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exception: If you buy a card and it is a Victory Point Card that brings you to 10 points, you may immediately reveal this card (and all other VP cards) and win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you buy a new dev card, and hit 10 points because of this new card, you then win on that turn. Job done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7983" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T16:15:58.677" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20671" CreationDate="2014-12-17T17:38:54.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 7th edition, all Monstrous Creatures are AP2 (Hammer of Wrath excepted). MCs have the Smash rule, and Smash gives all attacks AP2. The only other exception would be if the creature had a BETTER AP weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T17:38:54.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21138" CreationDate="2014-12-17T17:42:02.383" Score="1" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did his ability get updated? The hero card that I have in my core set states that the player can only activate another hero within line of sight but the hero card online at the arcadia quest website doesn't have the line of sight restriction. I'm assuming the hero card online is the correct version but I just want to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crossposted on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1286449/aq-hobsbawms-ability-clarification&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7003" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T18:37:31.967" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T18:49:55.520" Title="AQ Hobsbawm ability clarification" Tags="|arcadia-quest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23990" CreationDate="2014-12-17T18:25:41.147" Score="1" ViewCount="2195" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a reference to the Classic edition of Axis and Allies. One &quot;alternate&quot; (house) rule is that Russia is not allowed to attack the first turn. (But she does get her &quot;income&quot; of,say, eight infantry units.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the rule were extended so that Russia were not allowed to attack Germany or Japan for one or more additional turns (unless attacked)? That would allow the Axis (32 IPCs for Germany, 25 IPCs for Japan) to initially concentrate on the U.S. (36 IPCs counting China), and UK (30 IPCs), making for a pretty balanced game. (The Axis do have the advantage of superior board position to compensate for fewer IPCs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Does this rule change accurately portray the &quot;real life&quot; dilemma faced by Hitler (and the Japanese) as to whether or not to concentrate on beating Britain and China respectively, before attacking Russia? Apparently, Russia was willing to refrain from attacking Germany for &quot;some time,&quot; though not &quot;forever.&quot; And she signed a 5-year peace treaty with Japan in 1941.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The original one-turn rule cuts the Allies' advantage by almost half (to 12 IPCs vs. 22). Could further limitations on Russian attacks on subsequent turns make the game an &quot;even money&quot; proposition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T15:55:31.090" Title="Can the Russia no first turn attack rule be realistically extended for more turns?" Tags="|house-rules|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21136" CreationDate="2014-12-17T18:38:03.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Line of sight is required &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/17761986#17761986&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according&lt;/a&gt; to the game's designer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The card in your core set is the most up-to-date. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-17T18:49:55.520" LastActivityDate="2014-12-17T18:49:55.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21105" CreationDate="2014-12-18T01:38:32.023" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer has already been stated. IF you are playing a 'regular' game or a tournament where you win and advance, declaring victory is required when it happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you are playing a tournament where the number of points matters - as it does in the world qualifiers at GenCon - then, yes, you can hold onto those point. Of course, it would not be so good if someone else won before you did because you got greedy....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10212" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:38:32.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21126" CreationDate="2014-12-18T01:40:44.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No - land units can never hit a naval unit in any event. Plus, the only purpose of a battleship during an amphibious assault is to conduct a shore bombardment. Once completed, the battleship is removed from the battle-board and is no longer part of the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10212" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T01:40:44.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2014-12-18T02:48:22.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any sort of pin with monument would get an unlimited score. 5 Card deck, King's Court, King's Court, Monument, Monument, Masquerade would see your opponent (in a 2-player game), only have two cards to play with, and eventually only have one (assuming coppers haven't run out). As they can only buy out 2 piles (excluding ruins), the game will never end, and you will get 6 points every turn and never need to buy anything else. Any variation of a pin (where your opponent can only buy copper or curses each turn) + VP tokens will see a potentially unlimited score. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Other 5 card hand variations:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The addition of Prince (new card, cost 8), would also make for potentially higher scores per turn if monument was set aside, or bishop with fortress in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King's court, King's court, Bishop, Fortress, Masquerade (9 points per turn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;King's court, King's court, Monument, Cutpurse, Masquerade (3 points per turn, stronger pin, opponent will have 0 card hand's sooner, more effective in 3 and 4 player games)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are many more variations but these are all very strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10226" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T02:48:22.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21159" CreationDate="2014-12-18T15:11:14.277" Score="2" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;My brother and I play the skirmish game Necromunda (made back in the '90s by Games Workshop, its a spin-off of Warhammer 40k).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what happens to zombies when you have wounded them and they get the 'down' result (roll a 6 sided dice, 1 has no effect, 6 taken off the board, 2-5=?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This relates specifically to damage from anything other than close combat, i.e. shooting, but also fall damage, seeing as any down result is out in close combat, unless its a multiple combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, do zombies start to crawl after the damage, like a normal ganger? Or do they shrug it off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2014-12-18T18:16:23.870" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T18:43:08.507" Title="Necromunda: what happens to plague zombies when they go down?" Tags="|necromunda|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-18T17:48:59.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're right that there should be no reason for players to openly trade in a 2-player game. One option you could have is a compulsory trade at the end of each round in which each player chooses one card that they want to get rid of. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a 2-player trading game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54043/jaipur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jaipur&lt;/a&gt;, in which both players trade with a central board of five cards, but not with each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T17:48:59.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21120" CreationDate="2014-12-18T21:48:16.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Mjolnir is an Action Die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only two types of dice in Marvel Dice Masters - character dice and action dice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Actions ... have no numbers around the die's custom symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mjolnir has no numbers around the hammer icon, thus it is an action die.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dicemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/mdm/MDM_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T21:48:16.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21148" CreationDate="2014-12-18T23:07:12.433" Score="4" ViewCount="35845" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the card of the Winged Dragon of Ra, the attack and defense points are ????. I am wondering that does the Winged Dragon of Ra has infinite power, and if not, what are his defense and attack points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10234" LastActivityDate="2018-11-09T16:09:18.440" Title="Winged Dragon of Ra's Attack and Defense Points" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-18T23:19:20.193" Score="6" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strange one, for sure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the hand was played, cards returned to board but before the next round was called, the defenders realized, in discussing the hand, that the declarer had revoked.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The declarer did not agree and the dummy couldn't remember (!).  One declarer (very good memory and very honest - ex-director of the club) explained card by card the play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The declarer said &quot;I don't remember it that way&quot; but had no other explanation of how the cards had been played.  Both defenders agreed (of course) on the way things had gone.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defender said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;10 of clubs lead, won by K in other defender's hand (agreed by all),&#xA;  Jack of hearts lead, ducked by declarer, allowed to win the trick&#xA;  (dummy had two small hearts). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Next heart lead, trumped by declarer (diamonds trump). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Next few tricks and then a heart lead again, won by declarer with the&#xA;  Ace he should have played on the first trick (he having only two&#xA;  hearts also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 3 diamonds making 4.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scored and then director called.  I believe that it is still a revoke since it was the last hand in a round and the next round was not called yet.  But the penalty?  Since the declarer doesn't agree?  But has no other explanation except &quot;I wouldn't have let the first heart ride&quot; kinda bewilderingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought a one trick penalty (since he seems to have revoked and later had the Ace left to play and win a trick) was in order with an adjustment if necessary later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, he made 4, would have made 4 if he had played correctly, so is making 3 fair when he doesn't agree?  I don't know what to do.  I am a fill in director and haven't had this come about before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10235" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2014-12-20T00:50:08.877" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T22:10:36.773" Title="duplicate bridge revoke not agreed upon" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21146" CreationDate="2014-12-18T23:28:34.067" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winged Dragon of Ra has a special ability. Well, it has a lot of them. But the important one is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When this card is Normal Summoned: You can pay Life Points so that you only have 100 left; this card gains ATK and DEF equal to the amount of Life Points paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you're at 3,500 life, you can choose to activate this ability leaving you with 100 life. Winged Dragon of Ra would then have 3,400 ATK and DEF, representing the 3,400 life you paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose not to pay, then he enters as a 0 0. You can still activate his kill ability, although consider that you have to tribute 3 monsters to do it, so to even that out you'd have to pay 3,000 life. He's definitely a card you build around if you're going to play him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2014-12-18T23:28:34.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21147" CreationDate="2014-12-18T23:40:47.787" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a standard pattern here that may be applied to numerous difficult decisions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Politely inform Declarer that as he cannot contest the explanation of play provided by the defenders, you must &lt;strong&gt;tentatively&lt;/strong&gt; accept their version, and thus are required by law to assign the normal revoke penalty. Inform Declarer that he is entitled to appeal this ruling, and that you will promptly assemble a suitable committee upon conclusion of play if he so requests. Ask declarer if he wishes to make such an appeal, and if he replies in the affirmative arrange for the three best and most respected players of the club to act as the committee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Allow declarer a few minutes after the game to refresh his memory of the play with a (supervised) examination [of the board], to prepare a rebuttal to defenders' description of the play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to ensure that the committee proceeds efficiently remind them that their prerogative is strictly to determining the facts, and that given a determination of the facts you will apply the rules by the book. &lt;strong&gt;You are the Judge, and they are the jury - not the other way around.&lt;/strong&gt; Declarer presents his case first, followed by the Defenders, followed by a simple recap by Declarer. Committee members may then pose questions to both sides. Get a determination of the facts from the committee, and apply the Laws; politely explain the result to both parties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Done correctly the entire process (for a simple determination of facts such as here) should be over in less than 10 minutes. Don't let either side or the jury waste time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember to thank both side later for creating a situation that enabled you to practice your committee work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key here is that &quot;I don't remember.&quot; is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a defence in any circumstances; but &quot;I need time to refresh my memory in order to prepare a defence.&quot; is a valid request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-12-20T22:10:36.773" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T22:10:36.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2014-12-19T00:13:57.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Master Spy text is, 'After each action card is played, move this card to the end of the line'. The text implies multiple action cards may be used in one turn, which at first seems to be against the rules. But, it is possible for the Master Spy's effect to be triggered twice in one turn, such as with a 'Confusion in Line' action card (choose player. Randomly rearrange the line just before that player collects his or her next noble). According to a previous post in this thread, WotC official response implies the Master Spy moves 'prior' to collection. Thus, the Master Spy will avoid being collected if randomly reshuffled to the front of the line, as he will just slip to the back of the line after the shuffle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10238" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T00:13:57.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21105" CreationDate="2014-12-19T13:00:30.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going from memory of 1st edition here, rather than the current rules.  I'm pretty sure you had to declare victory on your turn to win - even with the 5/6 player expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However - one fix for this is question, which is used in some tournaments I've played - is to always score victory as 12 points, regardless of number of points.  12 is about the right emphasis on &lt;em&gt;winning&lt;/em&gt; to usefully use a VP/game average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T13:00:30.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-19T13:26:50.037" Score="3" ViewCount="1981" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/melissadetora-041212-a-beginners-guide-to-drafting/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BREAD&lt;/a&gt; strategy for drafting, but am unsure what exactly makes a &amp;quot;Bomb&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in a Kahns of Tarkir draft I'm normally quite happy to pick a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystic%20of%20the%20Hidden%20Way&quot;&gt;Mystic of the Hidden Way&lt;/a&gt; as a first pick, but is it a bomb? If it isn't why not, and what does qualify as a bomb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10240" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-12-14T09:28:23.310" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T15:00:20.283" Title="How do I tell which cards are &quot;bombs&quot; in draft?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="179" CreationDate="2014-12-19T14:17:14.367" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Travis Woo has an interesting article, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/home/woo-brews-90-card-living-end/&quot;&gt;&quot;90 Card Living End&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, that has a good explanation of yet another reason to have more than 60 cards: his deck is based on a combo that relies on the card Living End &lt;em&gt;being in his library&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually drawing Living End is a problem for the deck, so he plays more cards because he &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; want to draw the most important card. He could play fewer, but he finds that he needs to combo off several times in many games, so he doesn't want to. He can make 90 work because there are good alternatives available for the other cards so he doesn't lose much in quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway the article has good explanation on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T14:17:14.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21153" CreationDate="2014-12-19T14:46:40.723" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, what is a bomb? According to a &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/limited-information/definition-bomb-2013-06-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Limited Information&lt;/a&gt; article it is &lt;em&gt;... a powerful, game-ending, stabilizing card.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; though the author does admit that other people might have slightly different definitions. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Bomb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation Wiki&lt;/a&gt; describes a bomb as &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;...a card, generally used in conjunction with Limited play, that always makes a large card impact on a game in which it is played.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From these definitions we can gather that 'bombs' are cards that when you play them have a high impact on the board, making it so that if you were behind you have now caught up, or even pulled ahead (stabilizing), and if unanswered will win you the game quickly (powerful, game-ending). In general I would say a bomb is anything that when played, regardless of board state, makes you go 'Oh crap' when played against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general this means that a lot of bombs are creatures with high power and toughness (usually 5/5 or bigger), evasion or protection from removal is nice but not always required especially on ones with powerful 'enters the battlefield' triggers, speaking of which ETB triggers are also help make bombs because even if they have removal you still got some value out of the card. There can be other factors that that make creatures bombs but these are the big ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a lot of bombs are creatures it is possible to have non-creature bombs too, most Planeswalkers are bombs, for other non-creature non-Planeswalker cards generally you want things that will have a large impact on the board for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=End%20Hostilities&quot;&gt;End Hostilities&lt;/a&gt; or any other board wipe, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overrun&quot;&gt;Overrun&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flying%20Crane%20Technique&quot;&gt;Flying Crane Technique&lt;/a&gt; or other things that give your entire team a boost and/or evasion. For these though it is a bit harder to define exactly what makes a bomb since bomb creatures are designed primarily to attack, but non-creature bombs can do a wide variety of things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Mystic of the Hidden Way, according to the definition I've been using it is not a bomb. While it does have evasion in its 'can't be blocked', it doesn't have very impressive stats at 3/2. This means it neither helps you stabilize your board if you are behind, since it can't block most cards without dying too, and while it will inevitably win the game for you if you keep attacking it will take a long time. This doesn't mean that it is a bad card, it just means it isn't a bomb.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T15:00:20.283" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T15:00:20.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12334" CreationDate="2014-12-19T15:18:41.753" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To straighten out cards I would suggest you dry them in an oven. Test with one or two first. Set the oven to 60°C and leave for 30 mins, you may see them curl the other way! After cooling place directly into a sleeve. The theory behind curling is water absorption into the card itself causing expansion thus drying it should to a degree reverse the process. Using a desiccant over a longer period, weeks, should have the same effect. The water should not interact with the card itself over short periods of time but could over longer periods causing a potential change the in the cards molecular structure, since they are cellulose base they are naturally hydrophilic and water hydrogen bonds to the structure. Note that all plastic sleeves will allow the diffusion of moisture through the faces but clearly an open end will be worse. so double sleeveing is a good idea but you could still see curling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10244" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T15:18:41.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21158" CreationDate="2014-12-19T18:22:33.477" Score="4" ViewCount="2746" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule book specifically prohibits advancing cards that cannot be advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ice generally cannot be advanced but there are a few exceptions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the exception apply when it's face down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I'm asking is: Can you advance an advancable ice that is unrezzed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8577" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T19:51:12.497" Title="Can I Advance an Unrezzed Ice in Netrunner?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21157" CreationDate="2014-12-19T19:51:12.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, unless otherwise noted on the card text.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I couldn't find this specifically addressed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, but it's pretty easy to reason out the answer if you look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=t%3AICE%20x%3A%22can%20be%20advanced%22&amp;amp;sort=name&amp;amp;view=spoiler&amp;amp;_locale=en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;all the Ice that can be advanced&lt;/a&gt;. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=t%3AICE%20x%3A%22can%20be%20advanced%20only%20while%20rezzed%22&amp;amp;sort=name&amp;amp;view=spoiler&amp;amp;_locale=en&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;several cards&lt;/a&gt; have something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tyrant can be advanced only while rezzed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the others can be advanced while unrezzed. To really drive the point home, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/07013&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wormhole&lt;/a&gt; says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wormhole can be advanced and its rez cost is lowered by 3 for each&#xA;  advancement token on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQm5c.png&quot; alt=&quot;Image of Tyrant card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2014-12-19T19:51:12.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21143" CreationDate="2014-12-19T20:45:38.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.scribd.com/doc/83017379/Necromunda-Outlanders-1996#scribd&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Outlanders rules pg 28&lt;/a&gt; make no special mention of how to handle downed zombies, I would say they do crawl around because I can't think of any reason that you would not treat them like any other ganger. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can't suffer flesh wounds and you can't pin them, so until they roll a 1 or reach a ganger to attack them in close combat, I would say they just crawl around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since they can't suffer flesh wounds it is safe to assume that they do not suffer the -1 WS/BS penalty when they get back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last thing I would suggest is to remove their 'always charging' rule when they crawl into base contact with a ganger, but that is just opinion, I have nothing in rules as written to back this up. As was pointed out in the comments by Paul Marshall, if a zombie did this, they would be removed during the combat because when a fighter is downed as a wound result in close combat, they are automatically removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked high and low for an official ruling and could not find one, but from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gaming.yaktribe.org/community/threads/plague-zombies-flesh-wound.1690/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;discussion&lt;/a&gt; about it on another forum, it seems that most interpret it this way. There does however seem to be some contention over weather or not they stand back up if they roll a 1 during recovery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.poisonousmonkeys.co.uk/Necromunda/Necromunda_Docs/Necromunda_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Reference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5081" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T18:43:08.507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T18:43:08.507" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23137" CreationDate="2014-12-20T07:20:17.173" Score="8" ViewCount="12416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Dominion set that includes the base set plus Alchemy and Prosperity. The box contains a plastic insert with many slots of various sizes. I have stored the cards in alphabetical order mixing the three sets together, but this seems suboptimal. This probably has a really obvious answer, but is there a way to organize the cards so the plastic insert makes sense? Any recommendations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3559" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T04:13:39.270" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T00:57:43.723" Title="How do I organise my cards in the Dominion big box insert?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-prosperity|storage|dominion-alchemy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21167" CreationDate="2014-12-20T09:15:07.703" Score="2" ViewCount="1002" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, we have always played under the assumption that you can play an extra action/minion before playing the standard one. Another player just challenged that interpretation claiming, &quot;it's not an 'extra' until you've played the normal one first.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you play an extra action/minion before playing the standard one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user5710" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T16:54:55.860" Title="Order of extra actions/minions?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21165" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21166" CreationDate="2014-12-20T22:49:05.903" Score="1" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chandra's ability allows you to cast spell without paying its casting cost:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;−7: Exile the top ten cards of your library. Choose an instant or&#xA;  sorcery card exiled this way and copy it three times. You may cast the&#xA;  copies without paying their mana costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(see &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383204&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383204&lt;/a&gt;). &#xA;What if I decide to cast a spell with an X casting cost, e.g. Fireball (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376334&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376334&lt;/a&gt;)? What kind of damage will be dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8573" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T01:50:46.050" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T01:50:46.050" Title="Chandra, Pyromaster's ability and spells with x casting cost" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21165" CreationDate="2014-12-20T23:08:09.453" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;X is always zero in this case according to this rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.3b If a player is casting a spell that has an {X} in its mana cost, the value of X isn’t defined by the text of that spell, and an effect lets that player cast that spell while paying neither its mana cost nor an alternative cost that includes X, then the only legal choice for X is 0. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-12-20T23:08:09.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21162" CreationDate="2014-12-21T00:51:15.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most instructions must be followed immediately. For example, if you are instructed to move or to destroy a minion, you must do so when instructed. &amp;quot;Play an extra minion&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;play an extra action&amp;quot; are special. The instruction simply raises the limit on the number of minions or actions you can play this turn. (Rule quoted at the bottom.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, Insta-Grow (Action from the Plants) reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play an extra minion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It means&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may play one more minion than you otherwise could this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before playing Insta-Grow, you can play up to one Action and one Minion on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing Insta-Grow, you can play up to one Action and two Minions on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Minions and Actions can be played in any order — they can even be intermixed — and you need not play all the cards you can play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra:&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, you can play one minion and one action each turn. A card that lets you play an extra minion or action lets you play an additional card of that type during that turn. You don't have to play the extra card right away unless the extra card was gained by a Special ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Accompanying example of &amp;quot;Extra&amp;quot; is &amp;quot;Spreading the Word&amp;quot;. Action: Play up to two extra minions with the same name as a minion in play.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&amp;quot;Unless the extra card was gained by a Special ability&amp;quot; wasn't present in the original game's rules. This quote comes the Cthulhu set.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T16:54:55.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21105" CreationDate="2014-12-21T02:51:00.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once 10 Victory Points (VP) has been reached, then you have automatically won, even if you have played a development card prior to purchasing the winning VP card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing alternate rules, then you can always agree upon a new set of rules which cover this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10254" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T02:51:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T10:24:40.013" Score="3" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to what I've read about &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1044/gunslinger&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gunslinger&lt;/a&gt; it looks like both share similar game mechanics, but not having played this 1982 game I'm not sure. Does it come close to &lt;a href=&quot;http://videogamegeek.com/videogame/87713/frozen-synapse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Frozen Synapse&lt;/a&gt; ? Or is there another game that is even closer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update to be more specific:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;em&gt;Frozen Synapse&lt;/em&gt; is my favorite PC game. So I like all of the elements of this game that I try to describe in the following, and I am looking for a boardgame that has as many of those elements as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Frozen Synapse I plan the movement of my guys for the next 5 seconds. On the 2-dimensional map I can program them to turn or move or hold still. They each have an individual view of sight. When they see an enemy they first aim then shoot. The time it takes for them to aim then shoot and the chances to hit depends upon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;their weapon, shotgun being faster than machine gun being faster than sniper rifle, while Sniper rifle has higher chances to hit than machine gun, and shotgun has the shortest range.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;wheather they are moving or holding still&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whether they are behind covering objects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two enemy guys happen to see each other at the exact same time, the guy not moving with the faster gun is the killer (no hitpoints - one successful hit means a kill). So there is no luck involved but the winner of a fight is clearly defined taking into account the above factors. Each player plans the actions of their guys simultaniously not knowing what the opponent player might do. The players may test-execute their planned actions. They may even test-plan and test-execute the actions of their opponent to see what would be the outcome altogether. After the players have finished their planning phase their &amp;quot;programs&amp;quot; are executed simultaneously: the guys do their planned movement and fire fights are resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a game that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;offers similar tactics, like which guy with what gun goes where, who covers whom, when to move which guy and when to let them hold still&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no luck involvement but a clearly defined action and event resolution like in 1., 2., 3. above&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has &amp;quot;fog of war&amp;quot; and individual character sight&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;has secret planning and then simultaneous execution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gunslinger&lt;/em&gt; seems to be about planning the actions of a cowboy during a shooting in a saloon. It's key to be fast. The players plan the actions in a &amp;quot;split second&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10255" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T09:20:32.483" Title="What boardgame comes closest to the computer game Frozen Synapse?" Tags="|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2014-12-31T00:10:08.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21171" CreationDate="2014-12-21T15:29:03.813" Score="0" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll admit we've had a lot of trouble with the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlewise%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Battlewise Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; the last few games and what affects it and what doesn't. If he has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlewise%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Battlewise Hoplite&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;in play and I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crippling%20Blight&quot;&gt;Crippling Blight&lt;/a&gt; does his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlewise%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Battlewise Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; get a +1/+1 counter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10253" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T02:05:02.757" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T02:05:02.757" Title="Will casting an aura on a creature with heroic trigger the heroic ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21170" CreationDate="2014-12-21T15:34:50.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Heroic only triggers when &amp;quot;you&amp;quot; (the controller of the creature with heroic) cast a spell. So no, your opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlewise%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Battlewise Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; will not trigger if you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crippling%20Blight&quot;&gt;Crippling Blight&lt;/a&gt; on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aura spells do always target when cast, so it will trigger heroic if you cast an aura spell and target a creature &lt;em&gt;that you control&lt;/em&gt; with heroic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4a An Aura spell requires a target, which is defined by its enchant ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-21T16:14:01.223" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T16:14:01.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21104" CreationDate="2014-12-21T15:43:27.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've assessed, in a two-player game, a trading mechanism seems pointless.  If the trade benefits one player, then there is no reason for the other player to agree to the trade, and if the trade benefits both players equally, then the trade has no effect on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, such a statement makes certain assumptions about the game.  If you relax some of these assumptions, it turns out that it can be reasonable to have an inter-player trading mechanism in a 2-player game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assumption: &lt;strong&gt;Players can accurately assess the result of trades.&lt;/strong&gt;  If players don't know for sure which side benefits on a trade, it's possible that both sides might agree to a trade.  The &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan Card Game&lt;/em&gt; is a good example of this.  If your game has hidden information, this makes it even more likely.  You can also take advantage of this by deliberately making it hard for players to assess accuracy.  For example, imagine a mechanism where you flip over a timer, and the two players have one minute to either negotiate a trade or both lose one resource to the bank.  Sure, it's probably in one player's best interest to stonewall and both lose one, but is one minute enough time for a player to figure out which one of them gains from that?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assumption: &lt;strong&gt;Players can reject trades freely.&lt;/strong&gt;  Without this assumption, you create forced-trade mechanisms: player X offers a trade that player Y is not allowed to refuse.  This can be interesting.  &lt;em&gt;Starship Catan&lt;/em&gt; is a good example of this.  You can even tweak it a little -- player Y can refuse, but then is forced to make a counter-offer that is higher.   (The tweaks the trade mechanism into an auction mechanism.)  &lt;em&gt;Basari&lt;/em&gt; is a good example of this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assumption: &lt;strong&gt;The game is zero-sum.&lt;/strong&gt; Exactly one-player can win.  Without this assumption, you can create scenarios where both players lose or both players win, and then a trade mechanism can be interesting -- the players might decide to trade to avoid a double-loss scenario, especially early on in the game where it's not clear which side will win.  The 2-team game in &lt;em&gt;Pandemic: In the Lab&lt;/em&gt; is a good example of this.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assumption: &lt;strong&gt;Players are playing only to win.&lt;/strong&gt; Not all players have winning as their primary goal.  They might play games because they want to tell a story, or because they want to socialize with their friends, or because they want to experience some economic growth.  In the first case, you might imagine a role-playing game where opposing factions will trade with each other because that's what their characters would do.  In the second case, you might imagine some party trivia game where players might trade categories so that they can answer questions more in their field of expertise.  In the third case, you might imagine players who are building a large empire and care more about reaching the end of the tech tree than whether the other player is further ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There might be more ways to have a meaningful inter-player trading mechanism in a game, but these should cover most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10257" LastActivityDate="2014-12-21T15:43:27.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-21T23:40:54.750" Score="3" ViewCount="6281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble choosing a basic land over something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Orzhov%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Orzhov Guildgate&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gruul%20Cluestone&quot;&gt;Gruul Cluestone&lt;/a&gt;. Why and when would you want one of these in your deck and would it replace a basic land or augment the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10253" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T06:12:59.727" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T15:00:43.720" Title="When is it worth adding nonbasic land or artifacts to your deck over basic land?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21174" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T04:06:16.167" Score="2" ViewCount="635" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kragma%20Warcaller&quot;&gt;Kragma Warcaller&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;stack&lt;/strong&gt; with the &lt;strong&gt;+2/+0&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;Lets say if i have a &lt;strong&gt;2/3&lt;/strong&gt; Minotaur and I play 2 &lt;strong&gt;Kragma Warcallers&lt;/strong&gt;- does that &lt;strong&gt;2/3&lt;/strong&gt; Minotaur become a &lt;strong&gt;6/3&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10258" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T17:06:52.167" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T17:06:52.167" Title="Do continuous effects stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21174" CreationDate="2014-12-22T06:03:10.937" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All continuous effects are applied at all times they are active. If a continuous effect grants +2/+0, it means it raises the creature's power by two. So if two continuous effects grant +2/+0 to a creature, the creature's power will be raised by 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T12:16:53.427" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T12:16:53.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T09:56:08.090" Score="-2" ViewCount="437" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up MTG around the start or mid last year. I purchased a Rakdos intro deck, and was pleased with it. I pushed some friends into MTG as well and they as well got a deck. For Christmas last year, I bought my self a Theros fat pack, along with a single booster. I now have an extremely small collection of cards from RTR to Theros. Throughout this year, I have done absolutely nothing to do with MTG. My friends barely play and I haven't had the money to buy any more MTG related items apart from sleeves for my crap Izzet deck(now dismantled) and a proxy Red Deck Wins modern deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have now lgs or place to group up to play as we are all very busy with school and other stuff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was wondering how I could get back into MTG (eg; purchases, things to do.). I have a low-budget, but really wants to start playing again and what I can do with the cards I have to build a deck, or find out if I can build a deck rather.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have linked my card collection &lt;a href=&quot;https://deckbox.org/sets/766934&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; on Deckbox for you guys to see what I am working with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the wall of text and thanks a lot for reading and helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10261" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T16:23:00.077" Title="I have been out of the MTG loop for the past year and i'm wondering how I can get back in" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-12-24T23:01:52.000" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21161" CreationDate="2014-12-22T10:00:17.513" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would assume that they would be alphabetical in each set, with the resource and victory cards obviously belonging in the biggest slots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7528" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T10:00:17.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T10:17:31.830" Score="5" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have as South&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AJ10x&#xA;AQJxxx&#xA;xx&#xA;x&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p(N) has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;xxxx&#xA;Kxx&#xA;xx&#xA;Jxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;all vulnerable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;SOUTH    WEST     NORTH     EAST&#xA;1H       3C       Pass      Pass&#xA;?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is South's best call and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10262" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-12-22T18:35:25.203" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T15:22:44.120" Title="Should I reopen this hand?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21176" CreationDate="2014-12-22T12:27:26.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on what u want. If you want to play mtg just for fun then i would suggest building bughet commander deck. Multiplayer commander is a imho best format for building fun budget decks. But if you are intrested in competetive mtg (standard) i would suggets starting with Theros event deck (for its value compared to price) and expanding the deck with some boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10198" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T12:27:26.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21178" CreationDate="2014-12-22T12:58:23.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If partner's double of 3C would have been negative, double here is not for penalty. It shows a hand with shortness in the overcalled suit and tolerance for responder's bids. Your plan here is to double and correct partner's potential 3D to 3H. Partner may have passed with a hand like Qxx x AJxx KJTxx, which might make 3NT but also probably beats 3CX by 3 tricks or more, in which case you need to double to protect partner's holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner's double of 3C would have been for penalty, then your choice is between pass and 3H. Even though partner needs very little for you to make 3H (essentially Kx in hearts and Qxx in spades is enough to give you chances), you could easily go down 3, which is a terrible risk. Therefore, pass is probably the best choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T12:58:23.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21173" CreationDate="2014-12-22T13:33:12.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what your deck is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific example those cards come in tapped so cannot act this turn, a basic land could, if i need one more manna to win and i top deck a guild gate you get another turn to try to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the question you are trying to ask is why would i use a basic land over a dual mana land and the answer to that is when the penalty for having dual mana (comes in tapped, pay one life) does not outweigh the benefit of having access to multiple types of mana.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as for the keystone, there are hundreds of cards that destroy artifacts, every set has at least 1, basic land distruction is very very rare. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T13:33:12.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21173" CreationDate="2014-12-22T14:29:41.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of reasons that your would choose dual lands or basics or mana rocks, it largely depends on the specific deck. In general all dual lands (other than the originals like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tropical%20Island&quot;&gt;Tropical Island&lt;/a&gt; have some sort of downside compared to basics, usually entering the battlefield tapped (though sometimes with a way of getting around that limitation). Mana rocks again depend on the deck, but generally unless you are running a ramp deck, or at least have a specific thing you are ramping to you generally will not run them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reasons to run basics, obviously if you are just running a single color you are going to want all or mostly basics. If you are running cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grim%20Lavamancer&quot;&gt;Grim Lavamancer&lt;/a&gt;  that care about cards in your graveyard you might run fetches along side them, and you could always choose to run utility lands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghost%20Quarter&quot;&gt;Ghost Quarter&lt;/a&gt;, but the only time in a mono-colored deck you would want to run any dual lands is if you have cards in your sideboard that are off color and you don't want to have too many lands in the sideboard too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to run basics over duals is if you are running an aggro deck and all or most of the dual lands in the format enter the battlefield tapped. Exactly how many lands that enter tapped you are willing to run depends on a combination of the color requirements of your deck and the speed of the format. For example with Theros-Khans standard you might decide that with a Red/White aggro deck the only land that enter tapped that you can run is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20of%20Triumph&quot;&gt;Temple of Triumph&lt;/a&gt; and adding &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wind-Scarred%20Crag&quot;&gt;Wind-Scarred Crag&lt;/a&gt; would slow the deck down too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final main reason that you would choose to run basics is if there are cards that care about basic lands (or basic land types assuming neither original duals nor shock lands are available). For example currently with Khans of Tarkir there are fetch lands that get a land with one of two different basic land types, since there are no lands with basic land types other than basic lands in the format at the moment you would need to run some number of basic lands for the fetches to find. Other things that might care about basic land types are cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunblade%20Elf&quot;&gt;Sunblade Elf&lt;/a&gt; and cards with the Domain mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for reasons to run dual lands, the most obvious reason is that you are running multiple colors and you need to have all of your colors consistently. For example if you are running &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Titanic%20Ultimatum&quot;&gt;Titanic Ultimatum&lt;/a&gt; and want to consistently cast it on turn 7 or 8 you are going to need to run a lot of dual lands to make sure you have all of the colors you need, but if your turn 7 play is instead &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devout%20Invocation&quot;&gt;Devout Invocation&lt;/a&gt; since it is much easier to cast color wise with only a single {W} in the cost you can get away with fewer duals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another reason to use duals is because they have some other ability in addition to making mana that you want, for example in Theros-Khans Standard there are the lands that Scry 1 when they enter, and the lands that gain you 1 life when they enter, if either of these are abilities your deck needs you might choose to run more of them than you would basics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For mana rocks you generally only want to run them if there is something specific that you want to ramp into, and you have a time frame that you want to ramp into it by. For example in Zendikar-Scars Standard there was a deck that wanted to ramp into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Primeval%20Titan&quot;&gt;Primeval Titan&lt;/a&gt; by turn 4, to do this they need to ramp twice by turn 3 to help make this more consistent they ran &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphere%20of%20the%20Suns&quot;&gt;Sphere of the Suns&lt;/a&gt; as some artifact ramp. In general though unless you have something specific to ramp into though playing mana rocks is taking time and mana away from playing spells that will actually advance your game plan and help you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the question of whether to run duals or mana rocks in addition to or in place of basic lands it again depends slightly. For lands in your average deck you probably want 22-24 (possibly more or less depending on the specific deck, but that is a good place to start). From that starting place you would replace basics with dual lands to a point, there are very few decks that want to run no basics, just because having all of your lands entering the battlefield tapped means you are essentially playing the game a full turn behind your opponent. For artifacts you generally want to run them in addition to the lands you are running, this is because you are probably running a ramp deck and you want to make sure you hit everyone of you land drops in addition to the ramp you are playing, and if you don't hit your land drops your ramp is actually just keeping you where you should be if you had played a land instead of getting you ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T14:29:41.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21176" CreationDate="2014-12-22T15:39:49.203" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you can do and what you should buy depends largely on what you want to get out of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to play casually with friends it doesn't really matter what you get. If you like big multiplayer games you can pick up copies of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/products/card-set-archive/commander-2014&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Commander 2014&lt;/a&gt; decks to get started playing Commander/EDH, you should be able to find them at stores like Target or Wal-Mart in addition to game stores. If you are just wanting to play 1v1 Duel Decks are a good place to go the most recent one is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/products/card-set-archive/duel-decks-speed-vs-cunning&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Speed vs. Cunning&lt;/a&gt; or you can get more intro packs like the Rakdos one you already got, again these products are at stores like Target in addition to game stores. You mentioned that you don't have a LGS to play at, but you should still be able to find somewhere to play whether it is at school in the cafeteria, at the local library in a study room (depending on how sound proof they are), or at a friends house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to start playing competitively there are 2 things you will need to decide. The first is where you are going to play, you mentioned you don't have a LGS, but is there somewhere nearby that you could travel to even if it isn't very often? The second is what format you want to play. This depends on a combination of what formats are supported where you play, for example at my LGS they never have Legacy or Vintage tournaments so I have no need to make a deck for those formats but they do play Standard and Modern so I do have decks for those ones, and what you can afford, generally Standard is the least expensive format and they get more expensive the larger the card pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do play competitively I would recommend playing Standard since you seem to be on a pretty tight budget and there is actually a good &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/standard-type-2/competitive/proven-standard/576061-mono-red-aggro-boss-sligh-rabble-red&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Deck Wins&lt;/a&gt; deck that you should be able to build for around $30. Once you have this deck if you do well enough you should be able to start building up your collection so that you can play other decks, and other formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't find anywhere to play with people in real life there are 2 official way of playing Magic on you computer &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/products/duels-of-the-planeswalkers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/magic-online&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic: the Gathering Online (MTGO)&lt;/a&gt;. Duels is primarily a single player game, it has a limited card pool and only allows you to play against certain other decks, but is pretty fun and much better than no Magic. MTGO is a lot like paper Magic, just on a computer. You have to buy all of the cards that you want to play with, but you have pretty much every printed Magic card available to play with. I personally haven't play on MTGO but I have heard that it is a lot of fun once you get the hang of the interface.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T15:39:49.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21176" CreationDate="2014-12-22T16:23:00.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Id say draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a good way to get cards, you get to use the cards as opposed to just buying boosters and you meet new people.&#xA;Its the most cost effective way if you are winning more than you lose as you get prizes and if not your improving you game, both things you want to do if your out of the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commander is good but can get stale quicker as its the same people with the same decks and there all in every game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have local places to play magic, you just don't know there there yet. We play at the pub and in the 2 years we've been doing this its rare an afternoon has gone by someone new has not wanted to join next time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tiny groups of magic players like you and your friends all over the place all with the same imaginary problem, add in all the people that useto play why might get back into it casually with there old cards and you have enough people to start a magic club anywhere in the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic is huge, reach out just a little and you will be amazed at how quickly you will have more players than tables space.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends has a very obvious magic tee he wares when we go places as a signal to other players. It strange how many people will politely interrupt you and ask about where and how you play hoping to get included. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T16:23:00.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21143" CreationDate="2014-12-22T18:00:05.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Downed zombies act the same as any other downed ganger: their movement is a 2&quot; crawl (the plague zombie's owner chooses the direction), and they make the same end-of-round injury check as any normal ganger. The only exception is that if a plague zombie rolls a &quot;1&quot;, it doesn't take the flesh wound as it stands up. This makes plague zombies about as tough as any other ganger: with the exception of close combat, it takes an injury roll of &quot;6&quot; to take them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a downed zombie &quot;charges&quot; into combat, it simply gets taken out automatically, just like any other ganger that crawls into combat (unless there are multiple combatants, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note: in the fluff, plague zombies are still alive &amp;ndash; just brain-damaged by the plague. So it makes sense that all of the rules of living gangers apply to plague zombies, with the exception of the rules that apply to pain or psychology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T18:00:05.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4121" CreationDate="2014-12-22T20:09:18.423" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a 1000 card box and used index card halves for dividers (longer than the card length). I have like 5-6 sets. I combined all the sets together and then separated first by purchase cost (6+ as one grouping) then by alphabet groupings like A-M, N-Z, etc. In this manner it cuts down on the time it takes to put cards away since you don't have to find things alphabetically, just by alphabet group. Plus if you know you want a certain cost card, the groupings are already separated by cost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coins/VPs/Curses/Prizes/Alchemy cards have their own groupings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10272" LastActivityDate="2014-12-22T20:09:18.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-22T21:01:48.187" Score="2" ViewCount="52351" Body="&lt;p&gt;The assumptions here are that your opponent will block whenever you could win on the next move, and also that given the opportunity to force a win (by creating two different directions with two in a row) your opponent will take it, but that otherwise, your opponent's moves are random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that setting, your best strategy if you go first appears to be (1st move) take the center, (2nd move) move opposite your opponent, (3rd move) create two directions of two in a row (which will always be possibly unless your opponents first two moves were corners, in which case the game will tie - this is even true if your 3rd move is actually blocking - blocking will create a forced win for you). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your best strategy if you go second instead? Is there an opening move your opponent can make which would allow you, as second player, to force a win, instead of just a tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="800" LastEditorUserId="23316" LastEditDate="2018-02-17T19:25:03.663" LastActivityDate="2018-07-19T23:44:24.063" Title="Is there a good tic tac toe strategy for the second player?" Tags="|tic-tac-toe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13940" CreationDate="2014-12-22T21:19:41.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looks like a bad translation from German to English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the corresponding paragraph from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.brettspiele-report.de/images/s/schwarzer_freitag/Spielanleitung_Schwarzer_Freitag.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;German rulebook of &amp;#39;Black Friday&amp;#39;&quot;&gt;german rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (no prototype!), page 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nachdem alle Kurse angepasst wurden, kommen die gezogenen Aktenkoffer in den Markt. Die Leiste, die die Preisänderung ausgelöst hat, wird komplett (ggf. inklusive schwarzer Koffer) in den Beutel&#xA;  geworfen. Hat eine Verkaufsleiste die Preisänderung ausgelöst, wird ab sofort die nächste Verkaufsleiste darunter genutzt. Erst wenn die dritte Verkaufsleiste abgeräumt wurde, wird wieder eine &lt;strong&gt;Verkaufsleiste aus dem Markt bestückt&lt;/strong&gt;. Hierbei wird die zweite Verkaufsleiste genutzt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me translate the last two sentences:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;Only after the third sales table has been cleared, a sales table is filled again &lt;strong&gt;from the market&lt;/strong&gt;. This is done using the second sales table.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The german rulebook is the original because the game designer (Friedemann Friese) is german.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10255" LastEditorUserId="10255" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T10:07:25.167" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T10:07:25.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21189" CreationDate="2014-12-23T03:19:12.870" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you know, tic tac toe is a solved game that end in a tie with optimal play.  And it's too short to really get any initiative as the second player, even for children.  Going second there is no way to &lt;em&gt;force&lt;/em&gt; a win without 2 misplays from the first player.  So if you want a &quot;strategy&quot; for player 2, it really comes down to just not losing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for going first, I often liked taking a corner first because it offers more opportunities for my opponent to mess up (any square but the middle is a win for the first player with perfect play).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T03:19:12.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21173" CreationDate="2014-12-23T03:42:14.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To elaborate on Diego's answer, running the dual lands/artifacts is a lot more common in the Commander format.  Since your deck is comprised of 100 singletons (you can still have any number of basic lands), its hard to get card consistency.  Commander decks often run 3 colors, so having the mana diversity can be very important.  Finally, commander games often last longer, and afford players more time to build their mana base and cast large spells, so getting slowed down isn't as much of a downside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note, since you mentioned the guildgates and cluestones, those come out in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=%7C%5B%22Return%20to%20Ravnica%22%5D%7C%5B%22Gatecrash%22%5D%7C%5B%22Dragon%27s%20Maze%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Return To Ravnica, Gatecrash, Dragon's Maze&lt;/a&gt; block.  Many of the many ideas of that block (and its ancestor, Ravnica) emphasized dual-colored spells, so the mana diversity was important.  In fact, all Dragon's Maze booster packs were guaranteed to have a guildgate as a land, to help the sealed formats branch into 3 colors.  In fact, I had much success with a 4 color deck in a Dragon's Maze sealed event thanks to all the color fixing.  Almost all my rares were castable.  See section 3 (splashing) of &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150111051238/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/rc/244&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the sets that were heavy on the dual lands often saw better improvements from them.  Otherwise, a basic is probably better than your average dual land because it won't cost you any time to deploy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T15:00:43.720" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T15:00:43.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-23T09:53:37.590" Score="3" ViewCount="20527" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I declare my attackers, that causes the attacker to be tapped. What happens if the attacker I tap has an ability that is triggered by tapping? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I have to tap the creature before the combat phase to use the ability (thus making it unable to attack due to it being tapped) or does tapping the creature to declare it as an attacker cause it to trigger its ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10276" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T13:38:43.837" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T20:04:41.850" Title="When I tap a creature to attack with it, does that also activate abilities that require tapping it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21193" CreationDate="2014-12-23T11:36:46.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can either attack or activate the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if the attacker I tap has an ability that is triggered by tapping?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Such an ability would be worded as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Whenever this creature becomes tapped, ...&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature had such an ability (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fallowsage&quot;&gt;Fallowsage&lt;/a&gt;), it would trigger if the creature becomes tapped for any reason, including attacking. In fact, it's effect would only happen if you have some external means of tapping it (e.g. by attacking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is, very few creatures have such an ability. You're probably not asking about a triggered ability; you're probably asking about an activated ability. Activated abilities have the form &amp;quot;[cost]: [effect]&amp;quot;. (Note the &amp;quot;:&amp;quot; and the lack of a leading &amp;quot;when&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;whenever&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;at&amp;quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, I presume are talking about an ability with a tap symbol in its cost. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golden%20Hind&quot;&gt;Golden Hind&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dakra%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Dakra Mystic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping does not actually initiate the attack or cause activated abilities to activate. Choosing to attack or to activate the ability is the first thing that happens. Tapping is then performed as part of that process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping as part of activating an ability is done to pay a cost. Tapping as part of attacking is similar. Like costs in real life, taking out a dollar out of your wallet doesn't allow you to buy two one dollar items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T15:57:37.497" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T15:57:37.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21193" CreationDate="2014-12-23T13:35:34.450" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you can attack and use the ability depends on exactly what kind of ability it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is a triggered ability like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFallowsage%5d&quot;&gt;Fallowsage&lt;/a&gt; that says &lt;em&gt;&quot;Whenever Fallowsage becomes tapped, you may draw a card.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; you get to use the ability anytime that card becomes tapped, attacking is the most common way but any other way of tapping it would also work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is an activated ability that has tapping as a cost like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Mystic%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt; that says &lt;em&gt;&quot;{T}: Add {G}.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; you have to choose whether you are tapping it to attack or if you are tapping it to pay for its ability. This is because tapping the creature is a cost and if it is already tapped from attacking you can't tap it again to pay for the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2018-05-07T20:04:41.850" LastActivityDate="2018-05-07T20:04:41.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22766" CreationDate="2014-12-23T14:25:48.667" Score="11" ViewCount="38942" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know there exist people who collect more than play, but I want to know how people organize cards who frequently build new decks and therefore want to be able to find cards quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few months of playing my family is already spending a considerable amount of timing organizing cards so we can quickly find cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our specific case: We store cards (not in our 12-13 decks) in a shoe box, sorted into about 25 sections: Red creatures, Red Sorceries, Red Instants, Red Enchantment Creatures, and so on, with a few extra sections for creature collections like slivers, beasts, or minotaurs. Sections are divided by color-labeled index cards cut to poke up a bit. Within larger sections we sort by mana cost with identical cards clustered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is working for our 2000-3000 card collection, I'm not sure it will scale.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What solutions have evolved to meet the needs of magic players at various numbers of cards? A good answer will divide into sections of &amp;lt; 1000 cards, 1000-5000 cards, 5000-10000 cards, etc. or whatever numbers are appropriate for common card storage techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T14:54:10.153" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T20:49:13.677" Title="How to store and organize cards for Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|storage|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21196" CreationDate="2014-12-23T14:53:34.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several different ways to organize a collection of Magic cards. Some of them have some advantages over others, but ultimately the one you should pick is the one that makes the most sense to you and is easiest for you to work with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sorting by set. This is personally how I organize my cards. I have each set separated and ordered by collectors number, which means they end up in Colorless-White-Blue-Black-Red-Green-Multicolor-Artifact-Land order, and then alphabetically within each category. I then have dividers between each set, and in the boxes the set are in chronological order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sorting by color. This is the other main way I see people sort their cards. With this each color has its own section. Within each color you then need some way to organize the cards, the primary ways I've seen to do that are alphabetical order or card type &gt; converted mana cost &gt; alphabetical order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are other ways of organizing cards since there are many different attributes you can choose to sort based on, but the previous two are the only ones I commonly see and they have the advantage of keeping cards you might want to use together close to each other. Both of the ways I've listed scale well from small collections up to very large ones (I currently have well over 10k cards and when I actually get them organized finding cards is easy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to store your cards you can find boxes like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcwsupplies.com/type/cardboard-boxes/card-storage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; that come in sizes from 100 cards up to 5k cards. Another option would be Wizard's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/arcana/announcing-2014-holiday-gift-box-2014-09-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Holiday Gift Box&lt;/a&gt; these boxes hold around 2k cards and have a few other goodies in them as well, though if you can find either Theros or return to Ravnica versions I would recommend those since the Khans boxes aren't very good quality. Also if you decide you don't want to use index cards as dividers you can but plastic dividers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgfanatic.com/store/viewitem.aspx?i=crd-bx-000026&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; but I have used index cards in the past and the are perfectly fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T14:53:34.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21196" CreationDate="2014-12-23T15:08:47.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of cards (10k+ I'd bet) and I keep it simple.  I keep the rares and mythic rares sorted by colors in a binder (Red, Green, White, Blue, Black, Colorless, Lands, Multicolored - I try to keep the multicolored ones of the same colors together too, like all the RB ones together, etc.) I keep all the rest (commons, uncommons) in boxes divided by color, similar to the binder.  I will make exceptions and pull commonly used cards into the binder that would normally go in a box (like Skullclamp for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I build decks, I usually figure out a theme or mechanic I want to play around and then choose colors that are going to support that.  Recently I've been working on a Golgari themed commander deck.  So I know I need to just worry about cards that are black, green, black and green or colorless.  Therefore I only need to look at those parts of my collection.  Since I can never remember all the cards from all the sets, I will pull those cards out and just look and see what might be viable before I make my final selections.  Keeping the rares separate helps speed this up because they are typically powerful cards that I will want to use in a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately my storage strategy is what makes deck building the easiest for me, since that is what I do most with my collection.  If you trade more and want to be able to find specific cards quickly, my strategy would be horrible.  Best thing I can recommend is to look at what you do with your cards the most and decide how to organize them to make that activity as painless as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T15:08:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21199" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21201" CreationDate="2014-12-23T17:42:56.167" Score="2" ViewCount="2701" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm watching this video from the Judge's Corner on YouTube:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABw-cJTtwLo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Targeting - Judge's Corner #10&lt;/a&gt;. One example shows these cards being played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/djUn3.png&quot; alt=&quot;video snapshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Middle first, left second, right third. The video says that once they resolve the left card wont have a valid target so it can't even be played. Does this mean that the card just stays in the persons hand as if it didn't happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10253" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T19:22:22.630" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T19:42:16.100" Title="Targeting question in regards to illegal target" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2017-08-11T21:51:47.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21199" CreationDate="2014-12-23T17:51:53.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell is countered and put into the graveyard, it is not returned to the players hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in section 608 of the comprehensive rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it&#xA;  was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game&#xA;  state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its&#xA;  characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the&#xA;  text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it&#xA;  was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The&#xA;  spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance&#xA;  of the word &quot;target,&quot; are now illegal&lt;/strong&gt;. If the spell or ability is not&#xA;  countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets&#xA;  are illegal, the part of the spell or ability's effect for which it is&#xA;  an illegal target can't perform any actions on that target or make&#xA;  that target perform any actions. The effect may still determine&#xA;  information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the&#xA;  effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Sorin's Thirst is a black instant that reads, &quot;Sorin's Thirst&#xA;  deals 2 damage to target creature and you gain 2 life.&quot; If the&#xA;  creature isn't a legal target during the resolution of Sorin's Thirst&#xA;  (say, if the creature has gained protection from black or left the&#xA;  battlefield), then Sorin's Thirst is countered. Its controller doesn't&#xA;  gain any life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, Assassin's Strike no longer has a legal target because Shambleshark now has hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T17:51:53.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21199" CreationDate="2014-12-23T18:07:56.620" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No that is not what that means. What happens is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shambleshark&quot;&gt;Shambleshark&lt;/a&gt; is on the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=289216&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Assassin's Strike&lt;/a&gt; targeting Shambleshark. At this time this is perfectly legal, so Assassin's Strike goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You respond with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383357&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ranger's Guile&lt;/a&gt; targeting Shambleshark as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your Ranger's Guile resolves granting Shambleshark +1/+1 and Hexproof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent's Assassin's Strike tries to resolve, but when it does it checks to see if it still has a legal target. When it does this it sees that Shambleshark now has Hexproof and is no longer a legal target. Assassin's Strike then gets countered due to a lack of legal targets, this works just like any other countering; the card has no effect (so you won't discard a card either) and goes to the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all because of this rule (relevant parts only):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. ... The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &amp;quot;target,&amp;quot; are now illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-23T19:42:16.100" LastActivityDate="2014-12-23T19:42:16.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21202" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T00:22:15.267" Score="0" ViewCount="1067" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is a enchantment creature card considered to be a creature that is enchanted? I need to know for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Winds%20of%20Rath&quot;&gt;Winds of Rath&lt;/a&gt;, which destroys all creatures that aren't enchanted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10283" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T03:58:45.477" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T03:58:45.477" Title="&quot;Enchantment Creatures&quot; and &quot;Enchanted Creatures&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2014-12-26T02:37:47.257" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21202" CreationDate="2014-12-24T00:34:53.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. An enchanted creature is one that has an aura enchantment enchanting it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4b The object or player an Aura is attached to is called &quot;enchanted.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T00:34:53.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T04:33:57.160" Score="1" ViewCount="332" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Got board game, what happens if someone attacks a territory held by another player, and wins but after combat has no troops to move cause of casualties? Does that player have to put power tokens in both lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10285" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T11:37:23.133" Title="Combat casualties" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22563" CreationDate="2014-12-24T06:25:19.693" Score="4" ViewCount="8952" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, I need a list of all the cards contained in all the packets and pockets. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Background: I completely played through a copy of Risk Legacy with some friends at the beginning of this year, it was great, we all enjoyed ourselves and noted we would like to do it again. However, one of the friends involved in Risk Legacy play through has moved to the otherside of the country and I am setting up to run a campaign of it on Roll20, but I realized our lack of meticulous documenting on our physical playthrough has now caught up to us (we tore up all the cards we were told to destroy after using them) as I am missing a bunch of cards and faction stickers to recreate the vanilla game. Does anyone know where i could find such a list? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T19:06:03.340" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T23:54:00.693" Title="Where can I find a Complete Spoiler list of Risk Legacy's packets &amp; pockets?" Tags="|components|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21208" CreationDate="2014-12-24T13:52:57.603" Score="0" ViewCount="5420" Body="&lt;p&gt;This rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature. &lt;strong&gt;If two or more creatures are blocking it, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocked creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that’s blocking it unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage.&lt;/strong&gt; When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. An amount of damage that’s greater than a creature’s lethal damage may be assigned to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who chooses the assignment order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I attack with a 5/5 and he has a 2/4 and a 2/2 would he have to deal 4 damage to the 2/4 first before dealing any damage to the 2/2? Could he instead give the 2/2 lethal damage instead if it was a better card to kill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10253" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T15:30:19.443" Title="Does an attacking creature have to deal lethal damage to the blocking creatures before dealing damage to the other blocking creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21207" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-24T14:17:14.663" Score="0" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question refers to the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanafuda&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hanafuda&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; gard game, with &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koi-Koi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Koi-Koi&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you form a Yaku (let's say a 1 point Yaku : &lt;em&gt;Tane&lt;/em&gt;, 5 animals), you've got the possibility to call Koi-Koi and keep playing the turn instead of scoring your points. In this case, the turn's winner will double his points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You've formed a 1 point Yaku, and you've called Koi-Koi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, let's imagine that your opponent form a Yaku with the same value as yours (for the example :&lt;em&gt;Tan&lt;/em&gt;, 5 ribbons) and decides to call himself Koi-Koi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your opponent forms a 1 point Yaku, and also call Koi-Koi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happens if the turn finish without any other Yaku to get formed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tie game. 1-1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Both players have the same points (here : 1 point), should they score it or no ?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the question could be different. To avoid this kind of situation, &lt;strong&gt;is it allowed to call Koi-Koi if my opponent has already did it, or am I forced to score my points?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10288" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T17:13:03.233" Title="Koi-Koi : does players score their points in case of tie game?" Tags="|playing-cards|scoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21206" CreationDate="2014-12-24T14:20:52.507" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does an attacking creature have to deal lethal damage to the blocking creatures before dealing damage to the other blocking creatures?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; is blocked by &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt; (in that order), then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; must assign lethal damage to &lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt; before it can assign any damage to &lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; must assign lethal damage to &lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt; before it can assign any damage to &lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; must assign lethal damage to &lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt; before it can assign any damage to the defending player or planeswalker (if &lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt; has trample).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c [...] However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that’s blocking it unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1d [...] However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that it’s blocking unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocked creature is assigned lethal damage. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Banding overrides these rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Who chooses the assignment order?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The controller of the creature dealing damage. Three turn-based actions occur in the Declare Blockers Step before players get priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1. First, the defending player declares blockers. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.2. Second, for each attacking creature that’s become blocked, the active player announces that creature’s damage assignment order, which consists of the creatures blocking it in an order of that player’s choice. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.3. Third, for each blocking creature, the defending player announces that creature’s damage assignment order, which consists of the creatures it’s blocking in an order of that player’s choice. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;you giant growth the 2/3 making it a 5/6 how does that change the damage?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players gain Priority after declaring attacking and blocking damage orders&lt;sup&gt;[CR 509.5]&lt;/sup&gt;, but before assigning damage&lt;sup&gt;[CR 510.1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have an attacking 5/5 blocked by a 5/6 and a 2/2. The attacking creature chose to damage the (now) 5/6 first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attacking creature must assign at least 6 damage to the 5/6 before it can assign any to the 2/2. It can only assign 5 damage, so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 5/5 deals 5 damage to the 5/6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 5/6 deals 5 damage to the 5/5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2/2 deals 2 damage to the 5/5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 5/5 takes 7 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 5/6 takes 5 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2/2 takes no damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T15:30:19.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21211" CreationDate="2014-12-24T14:53:21.267" Score="0" ViewCount="4227" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 509.3 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Third, for each blocking creature, the defending player announces that creature's damage assignment order, which consists of the creatures it's blocking in an order of that player's choice. (During the combat damage step, a blocking creature can't assign combat damage to a creature it's blocking unless each creature ahead of that blocked creature in its order is assigned lethal damage.) This turn-based action doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 702.2b says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any &lt;strong&gt;nonzero&lt;/strong&gt; amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature's toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in &lt;em&gt;Unhinged&lt;/em&gt; there are creatures with &lt;em&gt;1/2&lt;/em&gt; power(for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74257&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Little Girl&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;)(so basically it looks like there's no minimum damage a creature can deal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's imagine I have &lt;em&gt;monstrous&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373708&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hundred Handed One&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield(so it is a 6/8 creature that can block up to 100 creatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now assume I gave my &lt;em&gt;monstrous&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373708&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hundred Handed One&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;First Strike&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Deathtouch&lt;/em&gt;. During my opponents combat phase he declares 10 &lt;em&gt;3/3&lt;/em&gt; creatures without any abilities as attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question for this scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Would I be able to block them all dead?&lt;/strong&gt; Or will I have to assign 3 damage to first creature and 3 damage to second creature? Or can I only assign minimal of 1 damage per creature that would kill 6 of the attacking creatures my opponent controls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:20:40.003" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T15:00:11.537" Title="Blocking with First Strike + Deathtouch" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-joke-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21209" CreationDate="2014-12-24T15:10:53.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much damage must be assigned to each attacker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With deathtouch, 1 damage is lethal. Therefore, you must assign at least 1 damage to each attacking creature. You can assign more if you choose. For example, you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign 6 damage to 1 attacking creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign 1 damage to 6 attacking creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything in between&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That much is covered by rules you already quoted, CR 509.3 and CR 702.2b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I assign damage in increments smaller than 1? For example, 1/2?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, because of this comprehensive rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.1. The only numbers the Magic game uses are integers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one exception to this rule that is not present in the comprehensive rules. Mark Rosewater, the Head Designer of Magic, stated in &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/planeswalker-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; that if you are playing with silver bordered cards, &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; cards can suddenly deal fractional damage. This only applies to casual play - silver bordered cards are not tournament legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Does this mean that while playing silver-bordered cards I can break up Pyrotechnics to deal {1/2} damage to eight creatures (trust me, I can come up with a reason)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mark Rosewater: Yes. Yes, you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-24T15:00:47.930" LastActivityDate="2022-06-24T15:00:47.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21209" CreationDate="2014-12-24T15:13:51.513" Score="13" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;107.1a You can’t choose a fractional number, deal fractional damage, gain fractional life, and so on. If a spell or ability could generate a fractional number, the spell or ability will tell you whether to round up or down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you must pick an integer number of damage. So in a normal game, a 6/8 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hundred%20Handed%20One&quot;&gt;Hundred Handed One&lt;/a&gt; with First Strike and Deathtouch only kills 6 of the blockers. The remaining four 3/3 survive to deal 12 damage to Hundred Handed One, killing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an Unhinged/Unglued game, 107.1a is &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/planeswalker-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;modified&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For right now (and I reserve the right to change this with future &lt;em&gt;Un&lt;/em&gt; sets), whenever you choose a number, if that number is written as &lt;em&gt;p&lt;/em&gt;/&lt;em&gt;q&lt;/em&gt; in lowest terms, &lt;em&gt;q&lt;/em&gt; must be 1 or 2. If you stopped taking math in high school, for any fraction the greatest legal denominator is 2. And if you've mentally repressed all math-related knowledge, the only fraction you can choose is {1/2} (and yes, 1{1/2}, 2{1/2}, etc. is fair game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does this mean that while playing silver-bordered cards I can break up Pyrotechnics to deal {1/2} damage to eight creatures (trust me, I can come up with a reason)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Yes, you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hundred Handed One can now deal 1/2 damage to 12 creatures. In a Unhinged/Unglued game, &lt;em&gt;and only in such a game&lt;/em&gt;, HHO will survive the scenario unscathed. It would take 15 3/3 attackers to kill HHO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T15:00:11.537" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T15:00:11.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21214" CreationDate="2014-12-24T17:45:46.060" Score="2" ViewCount="924" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any spells (sorceries, instants) that grant emblems? The only way to get an emblem that I've seen so far is for a planeswalker's ability to grant an emblem. I wonder if there is any other spell that can be cast to receive an emblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T04:03:14.890" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T05:25:26.040" Title="Cards granting emblems" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-emblems|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21213" CreationDate="2014-12-24T17:49:33.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Aemblem+-t%3Aplaneswalker&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;No&lt;/a&gt;, not at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;o:emblem&lt;/code&gt; means the Oracle text (rules text) of the card must include the word &quot;Emblem&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;code&gt;-t:planeswalker&lt;/code&gt; means the card must not have the type &quot;Planeswalker&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Aemblem&amp;amp;v=list&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;18 cards&lt;/a&gt; that do mention &quot;Emblem&quot; are all Planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-24T18:50:59.783" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T18:50:59.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21213" CreationDate="2014-12-24T18:28:21.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of today (Dec 24, 2014) there are 18 cards with Oracle wording that gives an emblem. As you can see, they are all Planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?output=compact&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bemblem%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;gatherer.wizards.com&quot;&gt;this search here&lt;/a&gt; - I've cleaned up some un-necessary details for readability)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;div class=&quot;s-table-container&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;table class=&quot;s-table&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Name&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;th&gt;Type&lt;/th&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/thead&gt;&#xA;&lt;tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ajani%20Steadfast&quot;&gt;Ajani Steadfast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Ajani&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dack%20Fayden&quot;&gt;Dack Fayden&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Dack&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daretti%2C%20Scrap%20Savant&quot;&gt;Daretti, Scrap Savant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Daretti&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Domri%20Rade&quot;&gt;Domri Rade&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Domri&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elspeth%2C%20Knight-Errant&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Knight-Errant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Elspeth&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elspeth%2C%20Sun%27s%20Champion&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Sun&amp;#39;s Champion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Elspeth&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%2C%20Apex%20Predator&quot;&gt;Garruk, Apex Predator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Garruk&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Garruk%2C%20Caller%20of%20Beasts&quot;&gt;Garruk, Caller of Beasts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Garruk&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kiora%2C%20the%20Crashing%20Wave&quot;&gt;Kiora, the Crashing Wave&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Kiora&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Koth%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Koth of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Koth&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Dark%20Realms&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Dark Realms&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Liliana&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ob%20Nixilis%20of%20the%20Black%20Oath&quot;&gt;Ob Nixilis of the Black Oath&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Nixilis&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sarkhan%2C%20the%20Dragonspeaker&quot;&gt;Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Sarkhan&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sorin%2C%20Lord%20of%20Innistrad&quot;&gt;Sorin, Lord of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Sorin&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sorin%2C%20Solemn%20Visitor&quot;&gt;Sorin, Solemn Visitor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Sorin&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tamiyo%2C%20the%20Moon%20Sage&quot;&gt;Tamiyo, the Moon Sage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Tamiyo&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teferi%2C%20Temporal%20Archmage&quot;&gt;Teferi, Temporal Archmage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Teferi&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Venser%2C%20the%20Sojourner&quot;&gt;Venser, the Sojourner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;td&gt;Planeswalker — Venser&lt;/td&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tr&gt;&#xA;&lt;/tbody&gt;&#xA;&lt;/table&gt;&#xA;&lt;/div&gt;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2023-10-15T05:25:05.290" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T05:25:05.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11546" CreationDate="2014-12-24T20:02:12.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have noted, lands fall under the same rule as any other Magic card - any version sharing the same English name is legal in any format where any version is legal. (If they reprint Lightning Bolt, you can use your 20-year old Bolts). The same is true for the basic lands (because I don't think there's been a moment where the five basics &lt;em&gt;haven't&lt;/em&gt; been legal. :) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; they reprint them, there's a really simple reason - accessibility for new players. At any given moment, there is a new player starting the game, and no matter what product they pick up, Wizards wants to make sure there's lands for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T20:02:12.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21218" CreationDate="2014-12-24T20:48:11.027" Score="1" ViewCount="893" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to MTG, joining just within the Khans block. I've seen spoilers for Fate Reforged and I'm wondering: if the spoilers came from Wizards then why do the images look like they've been taken with a bad camera phone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eu8Kg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sandsteppe Mastodon&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8450" LastEditorUserId="7377" LastEditDate="2014-12-25T15:33:03.717" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T15:33:03.717" Title="Where do MTG spoilers come from and why are the images low quality?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21217" CreationDate="2014-12-24T21:29:59.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most spoilers coming directly from Wizards, or other authorized spoilers we get nice full sized images that are clear and easy to read. But occasionally we get spoilers taken from promotional items Wizards sends out. In this case the spoiler image was scanned or photographed from a calendar of events that Wizards provides for stores to put up and have the time and format of their FNMs, Pre-Releases, etc. The Mastadon is the promo for the release events and for that date it has a picture next to the date. As you can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/46Myl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; it is fairly small, about half the size of a normal card. That is why this one is such low quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other main reason that spoilers from Wizards are low quality is that they spoiled them at a Con and the only images we have are ones people at the con took with their phones. For example when &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/the-rumor-mill/577685-paxaus-spoilers-crux-of-fate-yasova-dragonclaw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Crux of Fate&lt;/a&gt; was first spoiled the only pictures we had were from people that attended PAXAus, it wasn't until later that Wizards gave us higher quality images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T21:29:59.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2014-12-24T23:21:47.770" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;A two-player version that my son and I came up with was pretty fun. Here are the altered rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OBJECTIVE: Be the first player to retire your four heroes at level 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SETUP: Start by separating out all the Class and Race cards. In the standard Munchkin game you will find 21. Shuffle these cards together. Next, deal 4 cards to each player. Each player places these character cards in front of him/herself on the table. These cards represent your Adventuring Troop of Heroes trudging through the Dungeons of Munchkingdom. Next, place a single D6 (six-sided) die on top of each character to represent their current level. Each hero starts at level 1. Lastly in Setup, reshuffle the remaining Class and Race cards in the Door deck, and draw 4 door cards, and 4 treasure cards per Player (not per character). Each player may distribute their 'loot' amongst their 4 heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GAME PLAY: Roll the die to see who goes first, highest die wins. The first player may lay down any treasures or items below any of his 4 heroes. Note: Once a treasure has been laid to the table from your hand, it must remain with THAT hero to which it has been placed. Furthermore, a thief cannot steal a card from any allied hero pertaining to the same Adventuring Troop. A Thief can only steal from the opponent's Troop of Heroes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each Hero can later on be one Class and one Race as per normal rules. Furthermore, if Class or Race are lost as a result of a curse or some other reason, simply flip the card over...that hero still can be played as normal, just without the Bonuses/Penalties of the previous Race/Class.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the first player is ready to begin, he chooses ONE hero from his Troop (moving the Class/Race card forward slightly to show election to other player) to open the door, then flips over TWO Door cards. Both Door cards have active effects if they are monsters or curses. This means that they are resolved simultaneously. If they are two monster cards it is like the results of a Wandering Monster card as per the original rules (Running Away must be resolved from each monster by EACH hero involved in combat). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are both curses, they affect that single hero who busted down the door. A Wishing Ring or other item that prevents a Curse will deflect ONE of the Curses (active player chooses which Curse to be removed). The player may still 'Loot the Room' (drawing a face down Door card into your hand) or play a Monster by 'Looking for Trouble' from his hand as per normal rules, unless the Curse card specifically states the turn has ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one card is beneficial (i.e. Class/Race card, Cheat card, etc.), the player may place this directly into his hand. The non-beneficial card is then resolved (i.e. fighting the monster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If BOTH cards are both non-threatening, the player places both into his hand, and then may choose to either 'Loot the Room' or 'Look for Trouble' per normal rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Monster Altering cards (i.e. Humungous +5) are non-threatening if drawn with a non-Monster card, and may be placed in the player's hand. But, IF drawn with a Monster, it alters THAT monster during that combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also: The actual Wandering Monster card if drawn Face Up, invites your opponent to lay down ANY held Monster card in their hand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After resolving combat with monsters per the rules below, or after 'Looting the Room', the player ends his turn by either laying down Item cards to individual heroes in his Troop (Treasure cards aquired from defeating Monsters can only be equipped directly after combat to the two heroes involved in combat...see combat rules below), or discarding them so that only 5 cards remain in his hand at the end of his turn. Every Dwarf character in his Troop allows the player to hold +1 card above the normal 5! If cards were discarded in this manner (at the end of the turn), the opponent if he has a hero with a current level less than or equal to the lowest level of all the heroes on the table, he may select ONE of the discarded cards and place it to the table below that lowest level hero (if its an item) or to his hand (if its NOT an item). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Items that are unusable be a hero may still be equipped to that hero. The bonus is just not added unless conditionary requirements are met. But, heroes that are NOT a Dwarf can only equip ONE Big item, used or unused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;COMBAT: When fighting a monster, add up all the bonuses of all the Monsters and Monster Altering cards involved in combat. Unless one of the heroes involved in combat is a Warrior, the player must beat the Monster's bonuses by 1. This number is derived by adding the hero's current level, plus any bonuses (or subtracting any Penalties). If the first hero who 'Busted Down the Door' does not have sufficient Attack Points (Level + Bonuses), then he/she can ask for help. This is done by selecting ONE of his current heroes (those NOT Retired). The Opponent may even offer to help for some bargained price, with any ONE of his heroes. If someone helps in combat, their bonuses and levels are added to the first hero's. Once a hero agrees to join combat, he/she cannot back out. If for any reason the hero(s) cannot defeat a Monster(s) then each hero involved in combat must attempt to Run Away separately from EACH Monster in the combat. If a hero is unsuccessful from Running Away from any Monster, that hero must face the consequences of the Bad Stuff of THAT Monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only Hero that gains Levels after defeating a Monster is the one who 'Busted Down the Door'. If for some reason another hero jumps into battle to help, then the first hero leaves. The second hero must face the Monster(s). That second hero does not get any levels if the Monster(s) are defeated, but does get all the treasures. Furthermore, a third hero cannot be asked to help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: The Kneepads of Allure, or other similar Items may be used to force someone into help the wearer of the Item, OR it can be used to PREVENT your opponent from using ONE of his heroes as a helper! In either way, the hero being manipulated by the item gets a saving throw to resist. That player must roll higher than a 6, by rolling a D6 and adding THAT hero's current Level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;RETIRING: Once a hero reaches Level 6, he/she is Retired from play. Take all his Class/Race cards, and Item cards and discard them. Leave just the D6 to represent one Retired hero. Player who Retires All four Heroes in their Troop wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DEATH: When a hero(es) suffer Death from Bad Stuff, they lose all their stuff. The player of the dead hero(es) lays down all their cards in ther hand next to all the dead hero's items he/she had in play. All of these cards will be discarded. Prior to being discarded, the opponent gets to select ONE item to add to EACH of his active (non-Retired) heroes. These items must first be given to the lowest level heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: this means that if both players have heroes that die in the same combat for whatever reason, one player's opponent will Loot his hero's body, while his own heroes will Loot his Opponent's dead hero's body. Dead heroes do not participate in Looting the Body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dead heroe's Level die (D6) remains at the same level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;SELLING ITEMS: Only ONE Level can be bought each turn by each hero in your Troop. Furthermore, Level 6 can only be attained as per normal Munchkin Rules regarding Level Ten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastActivityDate="2014-12-24T23:21:47.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21221" CreationDate="2014-12-25T06:41:23.007" Score="3" ViewCount="35716" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistcutter%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Mistcutter Hydra&lt;/a&gt; says it &amp;quot;cannot be countered.&amp;quot; What does that mean? Is it like saying that it cannot be blocked? Or it can not be stopped from being summoned this turn or what? I have no idea what this means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10292" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T22:36:22.510" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T18:28:03.457" Title="What does &quot;cannot be countered&quot; mean in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21220" CreationDate="2014-12-25T08:02:38.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cannot be countered&lt;/em&gt; means that your opponent(s) will not be able to counter this spell. In other words: this spell will hit the battlefield no matter what(except for a very few very rare cases described in the edit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card doesn't have &lt;em&gt;Cannot be countered&lt;/em&gt; text, then a simple &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382897&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; can counter this spell, so that it will end up in graveyard instead of the battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/9958/diego&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;diego&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; mentioned in the comment, there are some very rare cases when &lt;em&gt;Cannot be countered&lt;/em&gt; can still get &quot;countered&quot;(even though it will not be countered as per definition(rule &lt;strong&gt;701.5a&lt;/strong&gt;), it can be returned back to the hand/exiled before it resolves). A couple examples would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136209&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Venser, Shaper Savant&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can exile a spell before it resolves and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136209&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Venser, Shaper Savant&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can return a spell back to its owner's hand before it resolves. Ruling of these 2 cards say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=197532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell is exiled, it's removed from the stack and thus will not resolve. &lt;strong&gt;The spell isn't countered; it just no longer exists&lt;/strong&gt;. This works on spells that can't be countered, such as Terra Stomper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136209&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Venser, Shaper Savant&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell is returned to its owner's hand, it's removed from the stack and thus will not resolve. &lt;strong&gt;The spell isn't countered; it just no longer exists&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with these 2 cards your opponent may actually &quot;counter&quot;(read: prevent spell from resolving) your &lt;em&gt;cannot be countered&lt;/em&gt; spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 701.5a says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T19:59:14.167" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21220" CreationDate="2014-12-25T08:02:48.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means you can't counter it using a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCancel%5d&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNullify%5d&quot;&gt;Nullify&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0xFw0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Cancel: &amp;quot;Counter target spell.&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can still be blocked and everything else. For an explanation of how Countering works, I suggest you read here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://gaming.stackexchange.com/q/130897&quot;&gt;How does &quot;Counter target spell&quot; work?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:10:06.190" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T08:02:48.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21204" CreationDate="2014-12-25T11:37:23.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attacking units move into the target province prior to battle.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you moved all your troops,  you would have to have left a power token in the original province if you wanted to maintain control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If,  for whatever reason,  after the battle there are no troops left in the province, it remains unclaimed unless the defender already had a power token there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T11:37:23.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21220" CreationDate="2014-12-25T17:21:35.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Counter&amp;quot; is a keyword action, which is to say a verb with a specific meaning to the game. To counter a spell, one moves it from the stack to the graveyard. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; is one example of its use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Mistcutter Hydra can't be countered&amp;quot; means that instructions to counter Mistcutter Hydra are prevented, which means they have no effect. If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; is cast targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mistcutter%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Mistcutter Hydra&lt;/a&gt;, nothing will happen when Cancel resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't prevent blocking or any other action. It doesn't prevent Mistcutter Hydra from moving from the stack to the graveyard for any other reasons than as a result of an instruction to counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-25T18:42:03.050" LastActivityDate="2014-12-25T18:42:03.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21229" CreationDate="2014-12-25T21:00:46.650" Score="4" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an epic Munchkin game with the Unnatural Axe extension, we had an Elf player encounter &lt;em&gt;Santa&lt;/em&gt;. Santa is normally a level 9 monster, but that changes by -5 because Santa trusts Elves. Silly Santa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That player was doing &lt;strong&gt;way&lt;/strong&gt; to well, so someone added &lt;em&gt;Mommy&lt;/em&gt; to the fight. Mommy can only be played on a monster of Level 5 or below, or one that is a Baby. We reckoned that since Santa was now a Level 4 monster against Elves, this card could be applied! Mommy adds another monster of the same kind but 10 levels higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The poor victim Elf player complained loudly in proper Munchkin fashion, but conceded that our interpretation of the cards was probably allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was our interpretation correct, and was Mommy playable here? We were going by Santa dropping down 5 levels for Elves here, but perhaps it should not have been allowed because normally Santa is Level 8 instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you feel sorry for that player, they survived (having slain a monster without help to get of Santa's naughty list) to end up with this hand about two rounds before winning, utterly unstoppable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FmG5S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;epic Munchkin hand&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10296" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T01:36:26.953" Title="Unnatural Axe Santa vs. Elf and the Mummy card" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21228" CreationDate="2014-12-26T00:34:59.570" Score="8" ViewCount="131788" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can any Planeswalker be used as a Commander, or just the ones that say &quot;XXXX can be your Commander&quot; on the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(N.B. This question has nothing to do with the Brawl format.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7952" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T11:31:08.760" LastActivityDate="2018-11-06T20:56:20.423" Title="What planeswalker cards can be used as commanders in the Commander format?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21227" CreationDate="2014-12-26T01:19:49.490" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;Currently (in November 2018) there are the following sets of planeswalkers that you can use for your commanders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=e%3Aori+is%3Atransform&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The five double-faced transforming planeswalkers from Magic Origins&lt;/a&gt;. This is because they're a Legendary Creature on their front face, which is what the Commander rules are looking for.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNicol%20Bolas%2c%20the%20Ravager%5d&quot;&gt;Nicol Bolas, the Ravager&lt;/a&gt;, also a double faced card that starts as a Legendary Creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three sets of planeswalkers which say “(This card) can be your commander”:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=e%3Ac14+t%3Aplaneswalker&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The five mono-color planeswalkers from Commander 2014&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=e%3Ac18+t%3Aplaneswalker&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The four multi-color planeswalkers from Commander 2018&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=e%3Abbd+t%3Aplaneswalker&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rowan and Will Kenrith from Battlebond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These latter sets of commanders are still not legendary creatures, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;golden rule 101.1&lt;/a&gt; lets them make themselves exceptions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card's text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. The card overrides only the rule that applies to that specific situation. The only exception is that a player can concede the game at any time (see rule 104.3a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is like how &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=e%3Ac16+o%3Apartner&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Commander 2016 Partner commanders&lt;/a&gt; also get to make themselves exceptions from the usual Commander rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of Ixalan, all planeswalkers are going to be Legendary Planeswalkers, including retroactively. You still won't be able to use them for your commanders because they won't be Legendary &lt;em&gt;Creatures&lt;/em&gt;. Sheldon of the Commander Rules Committee has said &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&amp;amp;t=15850&amp;amp;p=229502#p229502&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;there aren't plans to allow all planeswalkers&lt;/a&gt; (posted 28 August 2017, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?p=229492#p229492&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;in response to an inquiry about planeswalkers becoming legendary&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No, PWs will not be allowable as commanders unless a card specifically says that it can--so no change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is like how they're not allowing Legendary Artifacts or Legendary Enchantments — it's not about being legendary, it's about being a Legendary Creature.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;House ruling exceptions for fun&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;That said,&lt;/em&gt; Commander is intended to be a format played casually for fun with friends &amp;mdash; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official EDH site's&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;Philosophy&lt;/em&gt; section says as much. That same section explicitly encourages people to make exceptions or changes to the rules for local play if it's fun. Unless you're in some kind of official sanctioned event, adherence to the Commander rules is only necessary insofaras you and your friends find it fun. If you and your friends want to allow Planeswalkers as commanders, by all means, talk about it and create such a rule between yourselves, and then make a deck with a Planeswalker as a commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Where are the rules for planeswalker not being commanders?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's two sources of Commander rules you can check to verify the absence of Planeswalkers in general being allowed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The official Commander/EDH site's rules&lt;/a&gt;, which say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players must choose a legendary creature as the &quot;Commander&quot; for their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No mention of Planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The MTG Comprehensive Rules, probably easiest found on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Commander_%28format%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Wiki Commander format article&lt;/a&gt;, which also includes some community commentary and explanation. Those rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.1. In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander. The Commander variant was created and popularized by fans; an independent rules committee maintains additional resources at MTGCommander.net. The Commander variant uses all the normal rules for a Magic game, with the following additions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Notably they defer to the site I linked in point 1.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="22171" LastEditDate="2018-10-30T19:08:39.020" LastActivityDate="2018-10-30T19:08:39.020" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21226" CreationDate="2014-12-26T01:36:26.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the -5 added to Santa's level does not change the actual level. It is simply a Bonus/Penalty. It is much the same way the Elven Bow provides a +4 Bonus. The Bow does not change the character's Level. Rather, it changes the character's Attack, which is a derivative of the Player's Current Level plus all Bonus and Penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though there are some cards that specifically state &quot;Adds X to Monsters Level&quot;, the Race/Class bonus/penalty is not one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T01:36:26.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-26T06:29:45.413" Score="2" ViewCount="3971" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of diplomacy I am playing, a Turkish army in Moscow is attacking Warsaw with support from Ukraine, Galicia, and Silesia. A Russian Army in Warsaw is attacking Moscow with support from Livonia and St. Petersburg. Finally, A Russian Army in Prussia is attempting to move into Warsaw. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10303" LastActivityDate="2020-11-24T15:04:27.780" Title="Diplomacy: What happens when two units attack each other with unequal support?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21231" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-26T06:53:25.207" Score="2" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are playing with the Agricola Bielefeld card deck.  When playing the card called &quot;Bielefeld Playing Cards&quot;, it says whenever you use an accumulation space, place all items on this card until you have accumulated 4 like items.  Then you can move the items to your playing board.  We are wondering if that would include animals... specifically cattle, since there aren't enough moves (with other players taking cattle) to ever get 4 cattle accumulated on the card.  Is this calculated into the points of the card since the card comes with 5 points on the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10304" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T00:17:22.500" Title="On playing the Agricola Bielefeld minor improvement called Bielefeld Playing Cards, does it include animals?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2014-12-26T08:31:52.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step 1 is to be aware of role synergy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dispatcher can move the medic through a cured disease and clean it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dispatcher can bring people together to share knowledge.  This works extra well if one of them is the researcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dispatcher can send the operations person to someone else's square to build a research station so a disease can be cured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bringing the researcher to the scientist is a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quarantine specialist should be near hotspots, and adjacent to as many cities as possible at once.  Stopping outbreaks simply by being nearby is a GOOD thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DON'T FLY TOO OFTEN! This is the biggest mistake in the game.  That colored card you used to fly may have delayed your cure.  Of course sometimes a hotspot really needs to be dealt with now, so your hand may be forced. Do your best to not set back the cure!  Once you have determined that the card you want to use to fly is not needed to get the cure, feel free to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't spend city cards to create research stations if the operations expert is around to make them for free.  If there is no operations planner to make them for free, then you will need to spend city cards on them to help get your cures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep the count of player cards drawn.  You will then know if an epidemic is due or not.  Also keep track of city cards that have shown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you MUST discard, try to NOT discard a card that may be needed for a cure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10306" LastEditorUserId="19549" LastEditDate="2022-11-23T08:40:02.863" LastActivityDate="2022-11-23T08:40:02.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-26T08:37:32.027" Score="6" ViewCount="9820" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder how many Magic: The Gathering cards have been printed I in total (including all languages, all editions). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I don't mean unique different cards, but really actual printed cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must be billions, but exactly how many? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10307" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T14:55:43.440" Title="How many Magic The Gathering cards have been printed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21236" CreationDate="2014-12-26T11:11:47.827" Score="2" ViewCount="1729" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like playing Settlers of Catan with one extension: &quot;Catan: Event Cards&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck consists of 36 dice cards to represent the 36 different combinations that can be rolled with 2 dice. This means that number &quot;rolls&quot; are evenly distributed according to its probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get this running on Android? Is there a way to roll two dice with predictable probability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.kosmos.catan.assistent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Android app&lt;/a&gt;, where you can use those cards, but unfortunately there is one card in it that causes shuffling of all cards, which destroys the probability sorting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20038/catan-event-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20038/catan-event-cards&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.de/spiel/ereignisse-auf-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.de/spiel/ereignisse-auf-catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially in settlers I would also like to take the sevens out of the pile and roll each turn only to have random amounts of sevens but if I didn't roll a seven I would take one card instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also optimal, I would like to have such a dice app that allows to set the number of dice to one or more and roll accordingly to play other games too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I get this running on Android?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastEditorUserId="5872" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T04:30:06.337" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T18:44:44.863" Title="Use exactly 36 combinations instead of two dice" Tags="|catan|probability|dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21235" CreationDate="2014-12-26T11:27:59.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an app called &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.s1m0n.catanstat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan Smart Dice&lt;/a&gt; which does exacly what I need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the possibility to have the dice be a &lt;strong&gt;fair dice&lt;/strong&gt;: there are 36 possible rolls (1-1, 1-2, 1-3...) And such a fair dice rolls all the possible permutations once before repeating a permutation again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also an app, where you can also adjust the number of dice and adjust the &quot;fairness&quot;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kaybogerd.fairdice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fair Dice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5872" LastEditorUserId="5872" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T18:44:44.863" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T18:44:44.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21213" CreationDate="2014-12-26T15:15:01.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not strictly speaking emblems, there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; non-Planeswalker cards which create effects with durations of &amp;quot;for the rest of the game,&amp;quot; which is the &lt;em&gt;original&lt;/em&gt; wording for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=174859&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Knight Errant&lt;/a&gt; (before she was errataed to have an emblem).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cyclopean%20Tomb&quot;&gt;Cyclopean Tomb&lt;/a&gt; removes mire counters that it put onto a land each turn for the rest of the game after it leaves the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Praetor%27s%20Counsel&quot;&gt;Praetor&amp;#39;s Counsel&lt;/a&gt; gives you no maximum hand size for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stigma%20Lasher&quot;&gt;Stigma Lasher&lt;/a&gt; prevents a player from gaining life for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Epic ability from Saviors of Kamigawa prevents you from casting additional spells for the rest of the game. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enduring%20Ideal&quot;&gt;Enduring Ideal&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Dominion&quot;&gt;Eternal Dominion&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Neverending%20Torment&quot;&gt;Neverending Torment&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undying%20Flames&quot;&gt;Undying Flames&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20Swarm&quot;&gt;Endless Swarm&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2023-10-15T05:25:26.040" LastActivityDate="2023-10-15T05:25:26.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21249" CreationDate="2014-12-26T15:18:50.977" Score="9" ViewCount="27284" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that when the players cannot feed their colony, they should place a starvation token in the food supply and decrease morale for every starvation token in the supply. What to do after that is unclear to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you lose morale after &lt;strong&gt;every round&lt;/strong&gt; for every starvation token you have in the food supply? Is there a way to get rid of starvation tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T13:22:20.070" Title="What to do with starvation tokens?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21234" CreationDate="2014-12-26T15:27:43.173" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Duelist Magazine released the size of the print runs for Arabian Nights, Antiquities, Legends, The Dark, and Fallen Empires. Between those five sets, there were approximately 429 million individual cards printed. (Those may just be the numbers for English cards, though, I'm not certain.) The print run sizes for those sets increased dramatically going forward from Arabian Nights at 5M to Fallen Empires at 312M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, no other Magic set has had the print run size explicitly revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit &amp;ndash; Some searching around has revealed some estimates at the print run sizes for other sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alpha: 2.6M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beta: 7.3M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlimited: 35M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revised: 500M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4th: 500M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ice Age: 500M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chronicles: 180M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirage: 400M&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm also going to &lt;strong&gt;speculate&lt;/strong&gt; that Renaissance had approximately the the same numbers as Chronicles, since Renaissance was essentially the German/French/Italian version of the English/Japanese Chronicles.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="6155" LastEditDate="2014-12-26T15:45:48.460" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T15:45:48.460" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21242" CreationDate="2014-12-26T16:42:51.567" Score="1" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the graveyard/cemetery card allow a player to take any destroyed building/district (i.e. including other players destroyed districts) into their hand or can they only redeem their own detroyed districts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8702" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T20:40:55.137" Title="How does the graveyard work in citadels?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21240" CreationDate="2014-12-26T20:40:55.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/291957/two-questions-graveyard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;, you can take any district that has been destroyed, so long as you were &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7009/in-2-3-player-citadels-can-your-second-character-buy-a-destroyed-building-using&quot;&gt;not the Warlord&lt;/a&gt; (you can't take a district you just destroyed), and the Graveyard was not the card destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Can the player owning the Graveyard claim another palyer’s District just destroyed (e.g. Palyer A destroys Player B’s Observatory and Player C, who owns the Graveyard, spends 1 Gold to claim the Observatory for himself) ?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Answer: Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6842" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T20:40:55.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21244" CreationDate="2014-12-26T21:07:02.253" Score="2" ViewCount="2894" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game Pandemic, after completing your 4 actions the next step is to draw 2 player cards. If already holding 7 in hand, does the rule force you to draw additional cards and subsequently discard (or play event cards) to get back  to 7? Or do you so the draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10314" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T21:40:28.293" Title="Pandemic: drawing player cards if already have 7 in hand" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21243" CreationDate="2014-12-26T21:40:28.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must draw, then discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After doing 4 actions, draw the top 2 cards together from the Player Deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing about the draw being optional in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T21:40:28.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21238" CreationDate="2014-12-26T22:08:27.473" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to get rid of starvation tokens but they only cause a loss of morale when there is not enough to food to eat for that round. In that situation, you would lose 1 morale for each starvation token in the food supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/dead-of-winter/rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; in the section that describes the Pay Food section of the Colony phase. The rules indicate that in the situation where you do not have enough food in the food supply to feed the colony, you do not remove the food, but instead add a starvation token and then decrease morale for each starvation token in the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was further confirmed in a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/17288300#17288300&quot;&gt;forum discussion on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; that involved Johnny Gilmour, one of the game designers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2014-12-26T22:08:27.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21230" CreationDate="2014-12-27T01:39:49.750" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Moscow is moving to Warsaw with strength 4 (itself + 3 supports). Warsaw is moving to Moscow with strength 3 (itself + 2 support). The Army in Prussia moving into Warsaw is irrelevant (It's of strength 1, which is also less than 4). The MOS-WAR move has greater strength, so succeeds and the Army in Warsaw is dislodged. The Prussian army remains in Prussia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1450" LastEditorUserId="13753" LastEditDate="2020-11-23T11:40:25.180" LastActivityDate="2020-11-23T11:40:25.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-27T11:13:37.613" Score="3" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem we ran into. Do the house cards stack or is what you play permanent. For instance, Baratheon play salladhor saan which makes all boats not your own 0 when supported. The opponent is greyjoys and play aeron. When they choose a new card they choose victarion. Would they still get the +2 to all there ships or would sans effect still make them 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10317" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T14:29:52.547" Title="Game of thrones house card rules" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21369" CreationDate="2014-12-27T12:49:36.070" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am forced to use czech language, but I would like to use English. How can I switch languages in GoKGS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I see when I click File (1st in the menu) and Set preferences (3rd in the submenu):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qaFwa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see anything to switch languages. My preferences should probably look like in the help page (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/help/setPrefsWin.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gokgs.com/help/setPrefsWin.html&lt;/a&gt;) but unfortunatelly they don't!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2014-12-27T12:55:48.070" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T23:30:58.930" Title="How do I set language in GoKGS?" Tags="|go|kgs|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21238" CreationDate="2014-12-27T13:22:20.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You keep the starvation tokens in the food supply for the rest of the game, however, they only cause you to lose morale when you don't have enough food that round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, you don't have enough food this round and you add one starvation token to the food supply but keep the food that was already in there. This causes you to lose one morale. Two rounds later, you don't have enough food again, and you add a second starvation token. This causes you to lose two morale since there are now two starvation tokens in the food supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T13:22:20.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21247" CreationDate="2014-12-27T14:29:52.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/faq/VA65_AGoT2_FAQ_v1_4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If House Greyjoy plays his “Victarion Greyjoy” House card against&#xA;  House Baratheon’s “Sallador Saan” House card, are the participating&#xA;  Greyjoy Ships still reduced to 0 combat strength?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastActivityDate="2014-12-27T14:29:52.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-27T17:03:12.680" Score="4" ViewCount="5113" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting Risk you are spread out and a few bad turns of the dice can leave you so thin you have nothing to attack with. There is nothing in the rules about this. Am I to assume you have lost at that point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10321" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T21:45:12.907" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T00:39:23.500" Title="If I have so few armies I can't attack any more, do I lose the game?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21251" CreationDate="2014-12-27T22:01:57.350" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most certainly not! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will still receive armies and be able to attack in a future turn, as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/risk.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; make clear (see page 6: Getting and Placing New Armies - Territories) that every player with at least one territory receives at least three armies each turn for territories, even if owning fewer than 9 territories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to not be a target of other players while you are weak, it is best to hold as few cards as possible, ideally zero, until you are strong enough to have a chance at defending your self, so don't attack at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T22:08:04.063" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T22:08:04.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-27T23:39:45.403" Score="1" ViewCount="19457" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a kinged piece jump another king piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10323" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T00:22:35.317" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T16:18:17.723" Title="Can a kinged piece jump another king?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21287" CreationDate="2014-12-28T00:56:03.430" Score="3" ViewCount="2401" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Catan Junior, for the &quot;Coco&quot; card with the Ghost Captain state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move the Ghost Captain as if you had rolled a ‘6’ &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of rolling a 6 says you move the ghost captain &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; take 2 resources.  Do you take resources when moving the captain in that case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not clear from the wording for the Coco card whether you should take two resources as you normally would with the ghost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; take resources there is almost no downside to building Coco cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry about the incorrect tag - I just joined, so I couldn't create a &lt;code&gt;catan-junior&lt;/code&gt; tag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10324" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T15:22:57.083" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T22:42:33.817" Title="Catan Junior: When drawing the &quot;pirate ghost&quot; Coco (parrot) card to move the ghost, do you recieve resources?" Tags="|catan-junior|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21255" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21263" CreationDate="2014-12-28T02:46:39.810" Score="5" ViewCount="6228" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Ticket-to-Ride USA, is there a limit to the number of locomotives used to build a route? It seems unfair to create a 3-space-route with one Train Car card and two Locomotive Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10325" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T07:06:00.103" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T04:18:42.143" Title="Is there a limit to the number of locomotives used to build a route?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T03:12:11.627" Score="0" ViewCount="1753" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am fairly new to Magic and I have read the entire rulebook multiple times and it never gave a clear answer,&amp;quot; how many mana can I tap per turn&amp;quot;, because to would just feel weird to be tapping all of the mana for example with my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbor%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Arbor Colossus&lt;/a&gt; he requires 3 forest and 3 of any mana to attack, so if I get enough do I tap them all at once or do they stay tapped after each turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10326" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T03:44:06.973" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T00:04:03.757" Title="How much mana can I tap per turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-28T03:46:47.553" Score="8" ViewCount="30677" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan can you conduct multiple transactions on your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You roll, collect your resource cards, and then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you build a road and a settlement?&#xA;Can you build a road and do a trade with another opponent?&#xA;Can you do a trade and buy a resource card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been playing one transaction per turn but not sure what the rules are pertaining to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10327" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T07:05:23.523" LastActivityDate="2018-12-26T10:59:48.037" Title="How many actions can you take per turn?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2014-12-28T03:59:00.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, you cannot tap mana at all. Mana only exists in your mana pool, it is not a permanent of any kind that can be tapped. Lands, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt;, can be tapped to produce mana. There are also creatures and artifacts that can be tapped for mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you usually only want to tap lands (or creatures or artifacts) for mana when you have something to pay for that needs mana, you technically can pretty much whenever you want to but there isn't generally a reason to. In the case of Arbor Colossus that is casting it (which takes 2 generic mana and 3 green mana) and activating its Monstrous ability (which takes 3 generic mana and 3 green mana). It doesn't take any mana to make it attack, or block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, at the beginning of each of your turns you have an Untap Step where you untap all of your tapped permanents. Once they are untapped you are free to tap them again to pay for other things, but once you've used it to pay for something you can't use it again until it is untapped again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T11:49:16.857" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T11:49:16.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21257" CreationDate="2014-12-28T04:54:18.800" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/settlers_of_catan_turn_overview.pdf&quot;&gt;turn overview&lt;/a&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;game rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may build as long as your resource supply allows for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the Combined Trade/Build Phase section of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/soc_rv_rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;Almanac&lt;/a&gt; states that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After rolling for resource production, you can trade and build in any order. Naturally, you can trade, build, trade again and build again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are restricted to playing only one Development Card, however, and you cannot play a Development Card that you bought on your current turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8351" LastEditorUserId="8351" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T20:39:55.270" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T20:39:55.270" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21257" CreationDate="2014-12-28T06:49:57.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You CAN conduct multiple actions or transactions. If you have enough cards and the right conditions, you could buy several different settlements, roads and so forth. What you are limited on is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Actions HAVE to be done in sequences. The stages of your turn is broken into three general phases---Roll the dice/Collect Resources, Trade (both from a port, the bank (4:1), or with other players), and Buy/Build. As long as you perform those actions like that, you could take as many as you'd like. (Note: Playing a Development Card is not considered a phase, as it can be played during any part of your turn...even before you roll the dice.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can only play ONE development card per turn. Also, the Development Card you are playing can not be purchase during that same turn you 'play' the card. So you would have to wait one turn to play it. This also means if you bought 3 cards in one turn, you would have to use your next 3 turns to play them (if you chose to play them as fast as possible). The only exception to the 'wait a turn' rule, is with a Development Card that gave you a Victory Point (e.g. Governor's House). Yet, even the Victory Point cards seem to have to comply to the 'no more than one card can be played per turn'. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are limited on buyings/building more than the alloted number of pieces. For instance, if you already have 5 Settlements built you could not build another one, until one is upgraded to a City, because the pieces intentionally limit this (though my set came with 10 Red Settlements as an error, so make sure you start the game with the right numbers: 5 Settlements, 4 Cities, and 15 Roads for the basic set).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T10:13:25.013" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T10:13:25.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2014-12-28T06:58:05.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no limit to the number of lands that you can tap per turn. For your other question, all of your tapped permanents will untap at the start of each of your turns, during the &quot;untap&quot; step.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a few different important basic terminology mixed up though. &lt;em&gt;Mana&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Land&lt;/em&gt; are 2 different things. Land is a type of card, one that most commonly produces mana (but some lands do not produce any mana). Thus, &quot;Forest&quot; is not a type of mana, &quot;Green&quot; is a type of mana, and Forests are cards that produce Green mana when tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, you do not need to pay mana to attack with creatures, including Arbor Colossus. You need to pay mana to cast Arbor Colossus (to out him from your hand into the battlefield), and to activate his &quot;Monstrosity&quot; ability, which gives him 3 +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T07:07:25.780" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T07:07:25.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21255" CreationDate="2014-12-28T07:02:03.430" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no limit. You could even complete a route using only locomotives. Remember that even though Locomotives are Wild and can be used freely like that, it is harder to collect them. Rather than being able to pick up TWO cards on your turn (i.e. two yellows), when picking up a Locomotive, you can only pick that ONE card. The only way you can collect TWO Locomotives on your turn is if you draw both randomly in succession...steep odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, in Advanced sets, some Routes REQUIRE one or more Locomotives as part of the total number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://ncdn0.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_2015_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the original rules&lt;/a&gt;, the relevant statement is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Locomotives are Multi-colored and act as a wild card that can be part of &lt;strong&gt;any set of cards&lt;/strong&gt; when claiming a route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Any set of cards&quot; means that it may contain more locomotives. Note that it does not mean that it may contain any further combination of colours, as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To claim a route, a player must play a set of cards equal to the number of spaces in the&#xA;  route. A set of cards must be of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamecapital.com/game_rules/ticket-to-ride.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules of Ticket To Ride: Europe&lt;/a&gt; this is explained better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Locomotives can always act as a stand-in for any given color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and (as an example):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To claim a Blue route that is three spaces long, a player may play any of the following card combinations: three Blue cards; two Blue cards and a Locomotive; one Blue card and two Locomotives; or three Locomotives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-08-06T04:18:42.143" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T04:18:42.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21253" CreationDate="2014-12-28T07:09:46.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a kinged-piece can certainly jump another kinged-piece. In fact, having a kinged-piece does NOT make it invulnerable to being 'jump'. This means that even a NON-kinged-piece can jump a kinged-piece. The only advantage to kinging a piece is that it is able to move both Forward and Backward. A non-kinged-piece can be severely limited in jumping due to this rule. Thus, if a non-kinged piece were in position to jump three opponent's pieces in a row, but the second jump required the non-kinged piece to jump backwards, the non-kinged piece would have to resort to only jumping the first opponent's piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10289" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T07:09:46.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21266" CreationDate="2014-12-28T07:29:43.297" Score="3" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Brigand&quot;&gt;Goblin Brigand&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. It says: &amp;quot;Goblin Brigand must attack each turn &lt;em&gt;if able&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I control a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Norn's Annex&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent is unable to produce white mana, but can (of course) pay for the attack with his life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the Goblin still &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;able to attack&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; since my opponent has no other option (in this particular game) than to pay for the attack with his life? Is my opponent &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;forced&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; to pay 2 life for the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T09:50:14.250" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T23:36:39.457" Title="Goblin Brigand and Norn's Annex" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21265" CreationDate="2014-12-28T08:01:30.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;em&gt;rulings&lt;/em&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233050&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Norn's Annex&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; you can clearly see your answer. The answer is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you control Norn's Annex, your opponents can choose not to attack with a creature with an ability that says it must attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T08:01:30.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21265" CreationDate="2014-12-28T09:57:34.367" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are mistaken about the lack of another option: He has the option of not paying the cost, since it's an optional cost (&quot;unless you&quot;)&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he doesn't pay the cost, the goblin isn't able to attack, so it doesn't attack&lt;sup&gt;[CR 101.2]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are never forced to meet any requirements. If you don't have enough mana to cast a spell, you don't have to play that land that would allow you to cast it. If Norn's Annex prevents your Goblin Brigand from attacking, so be it. This is supported by a ruling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you control Norn's Annex, your opponents can choose not to attack with a creature with an ability that says it must attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He might also have the option to sacrifice the Brigands, to destroy the Annex, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T09:57:34.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21271" CreationDate="2014-12-28T14:07:56.700" Score="7" ViewCount="3910" Body="&lt;p&gt;What my problem is when last night a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stuffy%20Doll&quot;&gt;Stuffy Doll&lt;/a&gt; blocked my 11/11 trampler, the result was me taking 11 damage and Stuffy Doll absorbing one of that damage from the defending player who took ten damage. We called mtg for a ruling and that was the one given. How is it that Stuffy Doll takes 11 damage, but at the same time ten of it gets through to opponent? I was expecting to take one damage from Stuffy Doll, seeing as how Stuffy Doll only really took one. I don't understand that in one case Stuffy Doll has taken one and in the other Stuffy Doll has taken 11. Sounds like a logical fallacy ie 1 = 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second question is what if I block an 11/11 trampler with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Obliterator&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Obliterator&lt;/a&gt; ? Will the opponent have to sacrifice 5 permanents or 11 permanents?  Would it be any different if the attacking creature didn't have trample?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10333" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T15:26:57.473" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T17:11:05.423" Title="Stuffy Doll blocking 11/11 trampler. Phyrexian Obliterator blocks 11/11 trampler" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21253" CreationDate="2014-12-28T14:31:31.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was indicated by @JaysonSmith, a king can always be jumped by another king. This holds for any variant of &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;draughts/checkers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The privileges that a king obtains differ by variant, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;backward movement&lt;/strong&gt;: in all variants, kings can move backward, but men cannot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;backward capture&lt;/strong&gt;: in all variants, kings can jump backward, but men cannot for American/English checkers/draughts, Italian, Spanish, Czech and Thai draughts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;long range movement and capture&lt;/strong&gt;: a king can move and capture long ranged (like a bishop in chess) for International, Frisian, Russian, Spanish, Czech and Thai draughts, as well as for Pool checkers, whereas men are short ranged in all variants.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;invulnerable being captured by men&lt;/strong&gt;: a king cannot be jumped by men in Italian draughts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6712" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T16:18:17.723" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T16:18:17.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21269" CreationDate="2014-12-28T15:28:43.443" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should have only taken 1 damage.  When damage happens, you choose how to assign your 11 damage. You must assign at least 1 to Stuffy Doll. Because your creature has trample, you can assign the other 10 to your opponent. Even though Stuffy Doll has indestructible, 1 damage is still considered lethal damage. So Stuffy Doll will take 1 damage, your opponent will take 10, and Stuffy Doll will deal you 1 damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar thing for your other question. Your opponent must assign at least 5 damage to your obliterator. He can assign as much as 11. So how many permanents he sacrifices depends on how much he chooses to assign. If his creature does not have trample, he must assign all 11 to the obliterator, and he will sacrifice 11 permanents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2014-12-28T17:11:05.423" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T17:11:05.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21272" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21273" CreationDate="2014-12-28T19:23:47.637" Score="8" ViewCount="2991" Body="&lt;p&gt;In TTR USA, does a player have to draw more Destination Tickets when they run out?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Meaning they've completed all the ones they started with.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or can they simply continue to play by extending their longest route or blocking other players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10325" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-12T23:13:41.453" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T23:13:41.453" Title="Is it mandatory to draw more Destination Tickets when they are completed?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21272" CreationDate="2014-12-28T21:37:09.090" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Your opponents should not know when you complete a route until the end of&#xA;the game. Also, you score points for every track you lay down, so you aren't just playing to block other players or to get he longest route. Completing routes is simply one of the ways to score points, it is not &quot;the object&quot; of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T21:37:09.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21231" CreationDate="2014-12-28T23:13:37.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right, the chances of getting any cows on your farm are going to be limited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1153000/first-thoughts-bielefeld-deck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a nice post about the deck&lt;/a&gt; that includes a discussion of this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are getting a lot of points in exchange for a lot of extra management of resources, so that is all factored in.  You have to decide if it is worthwhile and it probably depends on what other cards you might have that could assist. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10338" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T23:13:37.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21265" CreationDate="2014-12-28T23:36:39.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect of Norn's Annex can be interpreted as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Creatures can't attack you or a planeswalker you control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature's controller may pay (W or 2 life) at a given attack step for that creature to be exempt from this restriction for that attack step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as far as the game is concerned, Goblin Brigand is not able to attack. The fact that a player could &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; to pay a cost which would make Goblin Brigand able to attack is not relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules that support this interpretation are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1d&lt;/strong&gt; ... If a creature can't attack unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost, even if attacking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and more generally,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.12a&lt;/strong&gt; Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, &quot;[Do something] unless [a player does something else].&quot; This means the same thing as &quot;[A player may do something else]. If [that player doesn't], [do something].&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's a fairly general rule of thumb that players are not required to pay costs to make things possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2014-12-28T23:36:39.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21256" CreationDate="2014-12-29T00:04:03.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let me echo the point brought up by other answers that you do not tap &lt;em&gt;mana&lt;/em&gt;, you tap &lt;em&gt;lands&lt;/em&gt; (and sometimes, creatures or artifacts) to &lt;em&gt;produce&lt;/em&gt; mana. That's important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the core question: why is there no limit on how many times you can do this per turn? I suspect you're missing one critical piece of information, which is that each land which is a Forest has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where {T} is the tap symbol and {G} is the green mana symbol. Somewhat confusingly, this ability is &lt;em&gt;not printed on the card&lt;/em&gt; (except for very old Forests), but it is there nonetheless.&lt;sup&gt;[CR &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R3056&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;305.6&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/sup&gt; So there is nothing special about how you produce mana from a land. It's just an ability that you can activate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can activate an ability at various times during the game, as long as you can pay the cost.&lt;sup&gt;[CR &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R6022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;602.2&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R6012a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;601.2a&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/sup&gt; After you activate an ability, you always get another chance to activate an ability.&lt;sup&gt;[CR &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R116&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;116&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/sup&gt; Nothing in the rules gives any limit on the number of times you can activate an ability per turn; as long as you can pay the cost, you're free to activate as many abilities as you want. (And there are decks that rely on being able to activate &lt;em&gt;thousands&lt;/em&gt; of abilities in one turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T00:04:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21277" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T00:12:18.733" Score="3" ViewCount="1812" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bunch of recent Channel Fireball videos (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/videos/channel-lsv-holiday-cube-draft-5/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LSV&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/videos/channel-cheon-holiday-cube-draft-3/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cheon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/videos/channel-lsv-vintage-thoughtcast-combo/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;LSV again&lt;/a&gt;) show players exploiting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Vault&quot;&gt;Time Vault&lt;/a&gt; combos, where you untap the Vault with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voltaic%20Key&quot;&gt;Voltaic Key&lt;/a&gt; or some similar effect to take infinite turns. That got me thinking that Time Vault seems like a pretty useless card from a competitive perspective if you're not using it in a combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has there ever been a competitive deck that used Time Vault's manual untap ability, where you skip your turn to untap it? Or can anyone even think of a situation which could plausibly occur in competitive play where skipping your turn to untap Time Vault is a good (or at least defensible) strategic choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T05:05:39.163" Title="Is there any strategic reason to skip a turn to untap Time Vault?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2014-12-29T01:07:36.680" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about any competitive decks but I can imagine it being useful. Sometimes having two turns in a row is worth skipping a turn for. Imagine your opponent only has one creature available to block and you can remove it somehow. That gives you two turns you can attack him without him blocking you. The first of the turns you can even drop another creature you know that can't be blocked the second turn. If you hadn't the extra turn your opponent might have left more blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way around is therefore also true. Knowing that you skipped a turn and have an extra turn available at any time you wish forces your opponent to be more defensive because otherwise you could do tricks like I mentioned above. Your deck could benefit from your opponent playing more defensively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T01:07:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T03:11:23.623" Score="6" ViewCount="10877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started playing, and I noticed there are the double (Any color) paths, I thought that meant two different paths could be taken, but then I noticed it was blocked when one person put their train down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can only put one path down, and it's any color- why is there two paths if you can only ever use one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10339" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T10:53:49.590" Title="Why are there double paths?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21280" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21283" CreationDate="2014-12-29T03:35:15.977" Score="4" ViewCount="1320" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game a couple of months ago that was pretty minimalist. Everyone (6+ players) was dealt two cards that they kept hidden. Each had a role, I think some included Assassin, Baron or Duke(?), Courtesan(?). During each person's turn, you could do some basic action, an improved action permitted by your hidden role cards, or bluff another action. You lose when both your cards are revealed through people calling your bluff or they're killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game had a short name that I can't for the life of me seem to figure out. Anyone have any ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:08:36.617" Title="Card game where you're dealt two role cards you keep hidden" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21279" CreationDate="2014-12-29T03:43:49.203" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the number of players. The second path is available when you have four or more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important Note: In 2 or 3 player games, only one of the Double-Routes&#xA;  can be used. A player can claim either of the two routes between cities, but&#xA;  the other route is then closed to other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that no single player may take both routes of a Double-Route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cities are connected by Double-Routes. One player cannot claim&#xA;  both routes to the same cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T03:43:49.203" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22503" CreationDate="2014-12-29T04:30:54.180" Score="0" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been steadily ordering/printing armies for Neuroshima Hex, and now army storage is becoming a problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IWyWJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Organization has been sacrificed to meet volume requirements&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, there is a small mountain of plastic bags.  The current situation is necessary in order to make everything fit (including two game boards and some reasonably large army reference cards), which this leads to a packing problem at the end of game night. The boards and reference cards must be arranged into a pyramid: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RpTFd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pictured: the foundation of the volume limitation problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then all of the plastic bags must be meticulously and artistically layered to fit within the box.  I think the 'meticulous layering' step could be improved if I could store pieces in a stack, like a quarter roll. That would take up much less space: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vICT2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;As you might guess, I don&amp;#39;t plan to store these in leg reflectors&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I looked into other questions on storage and saw suggestions to use tackle boxes and toolboxes, but the compartments I've seen don't have the dimensions to fit an entire army.  I printed unofficial armies on thick hexes, meaning an army in a single stack is 5 inches, and an individual hex is 1.5 inches measured from one corner to the opposite corner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another consideration is that I would like to be able to give players the compartment the army is stored in, so that they can discard into it over the course of the game and progress towards a cleaned-up state.  This means rubber bands and similar options won't work.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This finally leads to the question: How can I store sets of hexagonal game pieces in a stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10341" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T07:14:50.787" Title="How can I store hexagon tiles in a stack?" Tags="|storage|neuroshima-hex|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21280" CreationDate="2014-12-29T04:46:01.137" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game you're thinking of is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/131357/coup&quot;&gt;The Resistance: Coup&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was originally a kickstarter game that has lots of different publishers/distributors depending on what country you're in, but it's available from Amazon either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T04:52:02.017" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T04:52:02.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21290" CreationDate="2014-12-29T06:15:02.130" Score="1" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite.asp?eidm=265&amp;amp;enmi=Star%20Wars:%20Empire%20vs.%20Rebellion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star Wars: Empire vs Rebellion&lt;/a&gt;, the card &quot;The Force&quot; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exhaust 1 ready resource card of your choice of either faction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does exhausting the card mean that the power associated with the card gets activated, just like how it does if a player normally chooses to exhaust the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see it going either way. If the power is activated, then it is strategic to activate powers when the player doesn't want it activated (e.g. activating Diplomacy when they have a good hand). However, I can't see any situation when you would want to exhaust a card of your own faction (why not just exhaust that card normally?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you don't activate the power, then it would allow you to disable an opponent's card or strategically flip your own character without activating its power. But I'm concerned that this might make The Force a bit too powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't figure it out from the rules (it only defines exhausting in terms of using the powers) and the FAQ doesn't describe it. Any clarification would be greatly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:30:43.067" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:30:43.067" Title="Does exhausting a card with The Force activate its power?" Tags="|star-wars-empire-vs-rebellion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7738" CreationDate="2014-12-29T08:37:50.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameguys.ie/sites/bggnew/files/The_Resistance_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's one&lt;/a&gt; I found, though it is slightly different from what I have in my box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10342" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T08:37:50.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2014-12-29T14:49:18.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One consideration is if there is some symmetrical negative effect in play, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smokestack&quot;&gt;Smokestack&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bottomless%20Pit&quot;&gt;Bottomless Pit&lt;/a&gt;. Skipping your turn skips a trigger on such cards that would effect you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another possibility would be if you're able to essentially take your turn during your opponent's turn. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prophet%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; is pretty good for that, as is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seedborn%20Muse&quot;&gt;Seedborn Muse&lt;/a&gt;. Of course you're not getting combat steps, but there are plenty of decks which don't need combat in order to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6155" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T03:16:01.250" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T03:16:01.250" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21254" CreationDate="2014-12-29T15:44:41.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just got this game for our daughter for Christmas and have only played it once. Just as with regular settlers, there is no downside to building development cards so I would say there is no downside to building Coco cards as well. The description says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You move the ghost captain and take 2 resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then move the ghost captain and take the two resources. I believe the inclusion of &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;as if you had rolled a ‘6’&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is where the implication of taking the two resource cards comes in. It would be the same as playing a knight in Settlers. You still move the robber and take a resource from another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T15:44:41.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T16:03:34.617" Score="1" ViewCount="432" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried the shuck-shuck approach while playing US and moved my Pacific fleet to the Atlantic (Japan didn't attack Pearl Harbor). However, Japan then used its entire fleet to invade Western United States. I quickly fell (due to a blunder), which decided the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How could the Allies have maximized on Japan's abandonment of the mainland?&lt;/strong&gt; The UK lost its Indian Ocean fleet and didn't have resources to build a new one. Mainland Asia eventually came under British control, but there wasn't a chance to take Japan itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other information about the board state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Germany destroyed the UK fleet on its first turn, then immediately followed the Japanese invasion of the US by destroying the entire American navy. Japan's navy sailed through the Panama Canal and captured London. Russia was still barely holding off Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3440" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T13:20:15.560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T13:20:15.560" Title="How do I take advantage of the Japanese Anti-American offense?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21284" CreationDate="2014-12-29T17:13:35.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exhausting is a cost to use an ability.  An ability is not the effect of exhausting.  So if some other effect causes a card to become exhausted, it would not trigger the ability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:13:35.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T17:33:46.387" Score="1" ViewCount="3286" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vigilante%20Justice&quot;&gt;Vigilante Justice&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever a Human enters the battlefield under your control, Vigilante Justice deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; Do I decide if the damage goes to the creature or player or does my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10345" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T17:42:29.217" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:47:52.283" Title="Who determines the target creature or player when a card says &quot;deals 1 damage to target creature or player&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21291" CreationDate="2014-12-29T17:46:52.117" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoever controls vigilante justice and the human entering play decides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:46:52.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21291" CreationDate="2014-12-29T17:47:09.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoever controls Vigilante Justice chooses the targets. The ability is a triggered ability, and the rules for triggered abilities say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3a&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;A triggered ability is controlled by the player who controlled its source at the time it triggered&lt;/strong&gt;, unless it's a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3d&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;The remainder of the process for putting a triggered ability on the stack is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2c–d&lt;/strong&gt;. If a choice is required when the triggered ability goes on the stack but no legal choices can be made for it, or if a rule or a continuous effect otherwise makes the ability illegal, the ability is simply removed from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt; The player [who controls the ability] announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;source&amp;quot; of the ability is the object that has the ability, which in this case is Vigilante Justice, so Vigilante Justice's controller controls the ability. When the ability triggers, as part of the process of putting it on the stack, that player chooses the targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:47:09.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21291" CreationDate="2014-12-29T17:47:52.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoever controls the Vigilante Justice and the Human chooses which creature or player it will target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because whomever controls the Vigilante Justice controls its trigger &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[603.3a]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt; and whoever controls the trigger chooses the targets &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[601.2c]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T17:47:52.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21296" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-29T18:48:04.410" Score="1" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got a &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.gokgs.com/games/2014/12/28/tomast-2.sgf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;great review of my game&lt;/a&gt; from another player on GoKGS. So I got this *.sgf file with lots of variants (tree branches) with lots of comments... So now I am looking for a good piece of software that would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow me to browse through all the variants and not get lost (it would be great if it could distinguish the variants I've already seen or something, otherwise I can get lost easily...)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There were certain situations (like in move 51) where the reviewer told me &quot;this is the key point to kill the opponents group&quot;. I would like to experiment with this. It would be nice if the software could tell me if the group is alive or dead - i.e. some help in the analysis, since I am (as a beginner) not always able to find the optimal move for either side... (I've heard of GoTools, but 1) I've also heard that they have lots of bugs, besides of being closed &amp;amp; paid only and 2) I don't know how they comply with requirement 1).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2014-12-29T19:28:05.967" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T15:18:52.007" Title="Go software for studying/reviewing sgf games" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16664" CreationDate="2014-12-29T19:58:51.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play on the iPad and I've been having to exclude the whole expansion, because there doesn't seem to be a way to just remove The Xanathar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that there is really only one, very specific scenario where the bonus is of any real value: If you end the game with little or no corruption and all of your opponents also have at least that much. If everyone else has no corruption (or at least less than you), your bonus is effectively negated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the strategy for this ecpansion seems to be ridding yourself of as much corruption as possible by round 8 (given that there are quite a few ways to do that), most games seem to end up where The Xanathar's bonus is basically worthless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there weren't ways to get rid of corruption and/or there were more ways to force your opponents to take corruption, it might be worthwhile, but as it is, it relies way too much on your opponents playing badly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&#xA;cScott&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10346" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T19:58:51.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21300" CreationDate="2014-12-29T23:25:13.163" Score="5" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the &lt;em&gt;Black Market&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Envoy&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Walled Village&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Governor&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Stash&lt;/em&gt; promotional cards for Dominion. They didn't come with any rules. Where can I get the official rules from Rio Grande Games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10348" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:02:34.633" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:02:34.633" Title="Where can I find the offical rules to the Dominion promo cards" Tags="|dominion|dominion-promotional|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21248" CreationDate="2014-12-29T23:57:19.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;CGoban v3.3.19 Working ok for me. Check version, update, if that doesn't work, consider contacting &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/help/faq/index.html#morequestions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.gokgs.com/help/faq/index.html#morequestions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pZuBw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T23:57:19.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21298" CreationDate="2014-12-29T23:59:29.720" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Promo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Promo&lt;/a&gt;. This page links to all promo cards, each page quotes the official FAQs. Note that there are no special &quot;rules&quot; associated with the promo cards, in general what you need to know to play them is on the card text. But there are official FAQs/clarifications, like there are for every card. They should have come on a sheet with the cards themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2014-12-29T23:59:29.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14460" CreationDate="2014-12-30T00:19:40.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With less players, everyone gets a few monopolies, and then it's just the luck of who lands on the other's monopoly first. With more players, it's about who can strike a deal, take risks, and strategize the best. A good way to break the first rollers advantage is implementing the house rule that one must go around the board once before buying a property&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10349" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T00:19:40.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T13:56:25.947" Score="2" ViewCount="9216" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the question is in the title:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any deck that can (in the very best case) win in turn 1?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should not be tournament legal, it should not be legacy legal, but it should follow the basic &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/standard-format-deck-construction-2003-01-31&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deckbuilding rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constructed decks must contain a &lt;strong&gt;minimum of sixty cards&lt;/strong&gt;. There is no maximum deck size; however, you must be able to shuffle your deck with no assistance. If a player wishes to use a sideboard, it must have fifteen or less cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the exception of basic land cards, a player’s combined deck and sideboard &lt;strong&gt;may not contain more than four of any individual card&lt;/strong&gt;, counted by its English card title equivalent. All cards named Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest are basic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the second limitation a deck of 15x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and 45x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; would possibly be a turn 1 win deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15x Lotuses would give you 45 blue mana to cast 45 &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recalls&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;45 &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recalls&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can force you or your opponent to draw up to 135 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you start with 6 cards(after mulligan), you have 54 left in the library, so you would want to use 18 &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recalls&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; on yourself to get all you library in your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then you can just mill your opponent to death&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, unfortunately, this deck is just not legal. Nowhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the first limitation the following deck would potentially be a turn 1 win deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's how it would work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will certainly have 1x Maniac, 3x Lotus and 1x Recall in your hand when you start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 2x Lotus, Maniac and Recall on yourself which will result to forcing yourself to draw cards while you can't. This would make you lose the game, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;'s ability would trigger and you would win the game instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again, this deck is not legal either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The only deck that I can think of that's capable of turn 1 win with these conditions is:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fluctuator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (for higher chance of getting it earlier)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;48x cards with &lt;em&gt;Cycling&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In best case you would get &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fluctuator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, 3x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and 3x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; as your starting hand. Then you could:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 3x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for 9 blue mana (9 {U} in mana pool)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 3x &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; targeting yourself (6 {U})&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fluctuator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (4 {U})&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play last &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=692&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (3 {U})&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycle like crazy(since you have &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=5806&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fluctuator&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; all your cycles are free)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After drawing the last card cast &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=230788&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (0 mana left)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cycle again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Win&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there any other deck that could possibly win in turn 1?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T06:03:31.087" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T06:03:31.087" Title="Are there any turn 1 win decks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2014-12-30T16:08:13.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21282" CreationDate="2014-12-30T14:22:45.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My fiance and I had a similar problem when it came to organizing our Settlers of Catan games since we have all of the expansions. What we ended up doing was getting small lunch containers to put the individual pieces in and a medium sized plastic tub to put all the containers and rule books in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works well since lunch containers come in a variety of sizes you can generally find ones that are just big enough for what you need without being too large. And you can always get a tub that is slightly too big for your current armies so that when you expand and get new ones you still have room to put them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest downside we have found with this method is cost. Depending on exactly how many of each kind of container you need, and how big of a tub you go with it can get fairly expensive. One way to help mitigate this though is make sure you have room to expand if you plan on doing that so you don't have to go through several iterations of containers as you get more expansions or armies like I did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00NC0GYFA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rubbermaid Lunch Blox Side Containers&lt;/a&gt; should be about the size you need, they are a little shorter than 5 inches, but they are also over 2.5 inches wide so I would think you could get the tiles to fit in at an angle. And they would also give players something to discard into during play. The size you need for the medium sized tub would then depend on how many of these containers you get plus how much expanding you want to make room for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T14:22:45.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21303" CreationDate="2014-12-30T14:53:03.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are all sorts of decks that can win on turn 1, including ones that are tournament legal.  Trying to list them all would not be a good use of the site.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5628/what-is-the-fastest-mtg-mill-deck-that-can-be-made&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; has an example of a turn 1 win by milling your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T14:53:03.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21296" CreationDate="2014-12-30T15:18:52.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm afraid I can only partial answer your question, but since there are no other replies yet, here goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To browse SGF files I use cgoban3 (the KGS client), which has a reasonable tree view and allows for browsing with arrow keys instead of the mouse. It has a few bugs, but it is generally easy to navigate around them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There does not seem to be any editor that can determine L&amp;amp;D status. This is already very (very) difficult for advanced specialized Go playing bots and requires a lot of computing power. You'll probably not find anything really usable, much less in a general purpose SGF viewer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.red-bean.com/sgf/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SGF specification&lt;/a&gt; it is implied that an SGF file has no way to keep track of which variations or text messages were added in which order (please correct me if wrong), so you won't find any tool that can display everything in the right order. This is quite annoying sometimes (and one of the reasons I don't regard SGF exactly highly).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T15:18:52.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21309" CreationDate="2014-12-30T16:08:54.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;p&gt;A scenario played out last night that at the time I felt was correct, but the more I think about it, the more I feel uncomfortable about it. I had on the field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Bombardment&quot;&gt;Goblin Bombardment&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Furnace%20of%20Rath&quot;&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dictate%20of%20Twin%20Gods&quot;&gt;Dictate of Twin Gods&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;~10 0/1 creature tokens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent had:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadeye%20Navigator&quot;&gt;Deadeye Navigator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nevermaker&quot;&gt;Nevermaker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;6 blue mana available&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I sacrificed a creature token to Goblin Bombardment to deal 4 damage to the Nevermaker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, my opponent paid 1U and exiled the Nevermaker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the Nevermaker leaves the battlefield it's ability triggers, it targets my goblin bombardment to place on top of my library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the Nevermaker resolves, I sacrifice 2 tokens and deal 8 damage to the Deadeye Navigator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent pays 1U to exile the Deadeye Navigator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deadeye Navigator leaves the battlefield, and then returns, soulbonding to the Nevermaker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I sacrifice two more tokens to deal 8 more damage to the Deadeye Navigator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent pays 1U to exile the Deadeye Navigator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deadeye Navigator leaves the battlefield, and then returns, soulbonding to the Nevermaker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My third Goblin Bombardment fails to resolve as the Deadeye Navigator is a new instance of the creature and thereby a new object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My second Goblin Bombardment fails to resolve as the Deadeye Navigator is a new instance of the creature and thereby a new object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nevermaker's use of Deadeye Navigator's ability resolves and it leaves the Battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nevermaker's ability trigers and my Goblin Bombarment in placed on the top of my library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nevermaker returns to the battlefield and is re-soulbonded to Deadeye Navigator&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like somewhere in the 10-12 range is where it goes awry. None of my abilities resolve because her cards are new instances of themselves, but this does not seem to hamper her at all. Was this all resolved correctly. Is there I way that I could have destroyed either the Deadeye Navigator or the Nevermaker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T17:09:17.270" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:09:17.270" Title="Dealing Damage to Creature soulbonded to Deadeye Navigator" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21307" CreationDate="2014-12-30T16:28:59.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's start by going through exactly what happens on the stack at each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start by sacing a token to try and kill Nevermaker:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Goblin Bombardment targeting Nevermaker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They respond by trying to 'flicker' Nevermaker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Nevermaker's flicker ability&#xA;2. Goblin Bombardment targeting Nevermaker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 3 and 4 get a little weird since you say Nevermakers leaves the battlefield ability triggers, but also before its ability resolves you sac more tokens to try and kill Deadeye Navigator. I'm going to assume that you sacrificed the tokens before the flicker trigger resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Goblin Bombardment targeting Deadeye Navigator&#xA;2. Goblin Bombardment targeting Deadeye Navigator&#xA;3. Nevermaker's flicker ability&#xA;4. Goblin Bombardment targeting Nevermaker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They then activate Deadeye Navigator's flicker ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Deadeye Navigator's flicker ability&#xA;2. Goblin Bombardment targeting Deadeye Navigator&#xA;3. Goblin Bombardment targeting Deadeye Navigator&#xA;4. Nevermaker's flicker ability&#xA;5. Goblin Bombardment targeting Nevermaker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You let the Navigator's ability resolve, and the Soulbond ability goes on the stack. This is when you should respond and kill it before it can bond with the Nevermaker again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Deadeye Navigator's Soulbond trigger&#xA;2. Goblin Bombardment targeting Deadeye Navigator&#xA;3. Goblin Bombardment targeting Deadeye Navigator&#xA;4. Nevermaker's flicker ability&#xA;5. Goblin Bombardment targeting Nevermaker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then let the Soulbond trigger resolve, and for making the stack slightly easier to understand I'll have the 2 Goblin Bombardment triggers that were targeting the Navigator resolve too. Both of those triggers will do nothing since the Navigator is a new object so they no longer have legal targets. That means we are back to the second step with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1. Nevermaker's flicker ability&#xA;2. Goblin Bombardment targeting Nevermaker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get to this point you can pretty much keep repeating sacing tokens and your opponent flickering the Navigator until you run out of tokens or they run out of mana. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest things to remember here are that the ability to flicker the Navigator and Nevermaker go on the stack and you get to respond to them before they happen, so if you really wanted to kill the Nevermaker you could have kept targeting it instead of going after the Navigator and saved a few tokens. The other thing is that Soulbond is a triggered ability when a creature enters the battle field, so you have time to respond to the trigger before they get a chance to bond their creatures together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make sure that Nevermaker's trigger never goes off you can respond to the activation of the flicker ability by sacing another token, this way you would only spend 4 tokens to kill it, you would keep your Bombardment, and the Navigator wouldn't be bonded to anything so you can kill it at your leisure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T17:08:18.783" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:08:18.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21307" CreationDate="2014-12-30T16:57:03.927" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there I way that I could have destroyed either the Deadeye&#xA;  Navigator or the Nevermaker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start out the same way, sending 4 damage to the Nevermaker. Your opponent activates its flicker ability. You let the flicker ability resolve, and the Nevermaker leaves and then enters the battlefield again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This causes 2 triggers to be put on the stack, one is the Nevermaker's &quot;leaves the battlefield&quot; ability, the other is the &quot;soulbond&quot; ability on Deadeye Navigator (since your opponent controls both, he/she can arrange their order on the stack as desired). While both are on the stack, you can respond by activating Goblin Bombardment as you wish. Since neither Navigator or Nevermaker are soulbonded, they do not have the &quot;flicker&quot; ability anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T16:57:03.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T17:29:55.173" Score="0" ViewCount="3846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just started playing mtg like a week ago and the first deck I've bought was Abzan Siege. Problem is I'm a bit confused on one thing, how many counters can you put on a creature at each turn? Is it only one +1/+1 per turn or as many as I want as long as I have sufficient lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10357" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2014-12-30T17:32:11.677" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T08:23:35.030" Title="How many counters for each turn for Abzan?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21310" CreationDate="2014-12-30T17:35:04.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that you are talking about the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Outlast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Outlast&lt;/a&gt; ability on cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Longshot%20Squad&quot;&gt;Longshot Squad&lt;/a&gt;. In that case you can only activate the ability once per turn in most cases. The rule for Outlast, 702.106a says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outlast is an activated ability. &amp;quot;Outlast [cost]&amp;quot; means “[Cost], {T}: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also clarified in the reminder text on that card, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outlast {1}{G} (&lt;strong&gt;{1}{G}, {T}&lt;/strong&gt;: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. Outlast only as a sorcery.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the cost of activating the ability is tapping the creature. So, once you activate it, you can't activate it again until you untap the creature again, which is usually your next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:35:04.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21310" CreationDate="2014-12-30T17:38:40.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deck Abzan Siege has several different ways of putting +1/+1 counters on creatures and how often you can do it depends on exactly which card is doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any of the cards with Outlast like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abzan%20Battle%20Priest&quot;&gt;Abzan Battle Priest&lt;/a&gt; you can normally only activate the ability once each turn since tapping the creature is part of the cost of the ability in addition to the mana you need to pay. If you can find a way to untap the creature on your turn you can activate it again, but since you can only activate Outlast as a sorcery your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ivorytusk%20Fortress&quot;&gt;Ivorytusk Fortress&lt;/a&gt; will not help you get additional activations out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ones with a triggered ability like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armament%20Corps&quot;&gt;Armament Corps&lt;/a&gt; you get to distribute the counters only once when the creature enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For ones with an activated ability that doesn't require tapping like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=High%20Sentinels%20of%20Arashin&quot;&gt;High Sentinels of Arashin&lt;/a&gt; you can activate the ability as many times as you want as long as you have the mana to pay for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-30T17:38:40.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21314" CreationDate="2014-12-30T18:45:58.247" Score="10" ViewCount="11200" Body="&lt;p&gt;In dead of winter Plaid Hat game, when I draw a card that add survivor(s), do I have a choice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to ignore the card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to make noise to find another type of card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3302" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T01:47:24.863" Title="Is accepting new survivors mandatory?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21313" CreationDate="2014-12-30T19:03:25.680" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Outsiders cards are just like any other card when you are searching.  You can absolutely make noise and choose not to keep them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do keep them, they go in your hand and don't take effect until you decide to play them.  You might want to hold a card that will add too many helpless survivors if you are short on food this turn.  Or maybe you're the betrayer and you want to surprise everyone by playing a bunch of helpless survivors at an inopportune moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outsiders can even be requested if someone else decides that they really need another character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/17800379#17801651&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's a post&lt;/a&gt; from one of the game's designers on BGG confirming these rulings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;yes, you add them to your hand like any other card, and can play it,&#xA;  request them, and give them to a request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2019-06-12T01:47:24.863" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T01:47:24.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-30T20:32:52.570" Score="9" ViewCount="4629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am planning on creating my own version of Risk in such a way that we can play it with 7 persons. For this I am planning to create my own map with a local theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What kinds of ratios/parameters are common in games with fewer players (e.g. countries per player, armies per turn)? Based on these, what kind of modifications do I need to make to the map (number of countries / connections between countries or continents) to make it suitable for 7 players? Or is the game playable with the current map  and 7 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10364" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2021-01-28T22:54:34.260" LastActivityDate="2021-01-29T18:30:52.740" Title="How should I modify Risk to play with 7 persons?" Tags="|house-rules|risk|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-31T01:25:53.110" Score="0" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;So first off I am fairly new to MTG and I was playing with my friend today and he corrected me on my move making. The way I thought it worked is that, for example, if I have a creature that requires 1 Mountain to attack it can attack after I tap the Mountain and the creature. However my friend said that the same land can be used multiple times in a turn, so I could use 2 other creatures on the battlefield that only required 1 Mountain to attack. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10366" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T02:04:52.090" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T02:04:52.090" Title="Can multiple spells be activated with the same mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-05-01T20:36:46.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21317" CreationDate="2014-12-31T01:50:49.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few basic concepts you need to understand to understand the answer to this question. For more information, I would suggest reading through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mana&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana#Comprehensive_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mana&lt;/a&gt; is a resource that is separate from cards and lands, and you have to represent it separately or remember how much you have. When you tap a basic land for mana, it adds one mana of the corresponding color to your mana pool (for example, tapping a Mountain adds one red mana to your mana pool). Some spells or abilities also explicitly say that you add mana to your mana pool, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;' ability. Your mana pool empties at the end of each step or phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Tapping&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;permanent&lt;/a&gt; (land, creature, etc) on the battlefield is either tapped or untapped. Abilities that make you tap the permanent, like a land's ability that gives you mana, can only be activated if the permanent is untapped. You untap all of your permanents at the beginning of your turn, and you generally don't do so otherwise. This means that, unless you do something special, &lt;strong&gt;you can't use a single land to generate mana more than once in a turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Spells&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cards that represent &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Spell&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;spells&lt;/a&gt; have a mana cost in the upper right corner (except some Future Sight cards, which were printed with the mana cost in the upper left). This indicates how much mana you need to spend to play the spell. When you spend that mana, it is removed from your mana pool. For example, if you want to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt;, you need to have 2 blue mana and one mana of any color in your mana pool to cast it, and that mana is removed from your mana pool when you do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, to answer part of your question, &lt;strong&gt;if you tap a land for mana, you can only use that mana to pay for one spell&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Combat&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you start &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_Phase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;combat&lt;/a&gt;, the player who is taking the turn decides which of their creatures is attacking. In general, this requires that you tap those creatures (and that they are not already tapped), &lt;strong&gt;but it does not require any mana payment&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, if you control an untapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Akroan%20Crusader&quot;&gt;Akroan Crusader&lt;/a&gt;, you can declare it as an attacker, and all you have to do is tap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are done declaring attackers, your opponent declares blockers. This means that they decide which of their untapped creatures should block which of your attacking creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that's done, combat damage is dealt, which generally means that blocked attackers and their blockers deal damage to each other, and unblocked attackers deal damage to the player they are attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T01:59:54.240" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T01:59:54.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21320" CreationDate="2014-12-31T02:36:07.970" Score="6" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was pretty reluctant to get into magic because I knew that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Our game-centric family would want to build a wide variety of decks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We are not interested in spending hundreds of dollars on a single game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, though I know it is possible to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4041/how-much-would-it-cost-to-get-started-with-magic-the-gathering&quot;&gt;get started at low cost&lt;/a&gt;, I want to know how to participate in the richness of deck building without going over $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T15:00:24.250" Title="Is it possible to build a wide variety of decks at low cost? If so, how?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21319" CreationDate="2014-12-31T02:36:07.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The key is to get common and uncommon cards, avoiding rare and mythic rare cards (Note: A year after answering this question, I wrote a lengthy comprehensive &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.filterjoe.com/2015/10/22/magic-the-gathering-guide-low-costs-have-fun/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guide on how to keep cost low while still having fun with MtG&lt;/a&gt;. I still stand behind the following answer, but I did find out other ways to keep costs low).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't already know the game, your buying will be much more efficient and effective if you learn it first. You can learn the rules and play some sample games on an iOS or Android device with the official app (at the time of this writing, it's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/products/duels-of-the-planeswalkers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/a&gt;). You don't have to spend any money to play a few sample duels but if you want to play all of the different duels you'll have to pay to unlock additional duels ($15 on iOS). You should begin to get a feel for different possible deck strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you have a friend with several (or more) decks, have your friend teach you the game using his or her decks. Be sure to try out several different styles of decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read about &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_deck_types&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;deck types&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with knowledge of the basic deck types, you're ready to go to a local store that processes a lot of cards. A good resource for finding a store near you is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://locator.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official store locator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stores will vary in their policies so you'll have to find one that sells bulk common cards at very low cost. The store I go to lets me sift through many thousands of unsorted common and uncommon cards and pile them into a box that fits about 500 cards, at a cost of $5. It's time consuming, but I get to choose the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This low card cost is possible because some stores generate so many common and uncommon cards as byproducts of events or buying collections that they can't possibly sell them all. They pick out the rares and unusually valuable uncommons/commons. The remaining commons/uncommons will eventually get recycled, so some store owners are happy to sell them for something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time you do this, you will make mistakes, and you'll quickly realize that you don't have enough of certain kinds of cards and too many junky cards. That's okay. You've only spent $5. So you go back to the store a few more times. By your 4th trip you should be a lot better at knowing which cards are interesting and which to avoid. It helps to bring a list of what kinds of cards you want, including specific cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you've accumulated around 2500-3000 cards (at least a few hundred of these will be lands and dual lands), you'll find that it's possible to construct a wide variety of decks and pursue a wide range of deck strategies. You have the potential to create hundreds or maybe even thousands of different, effective decks. However, you'll only be able to have 12-15 decks going at one time due to limited number of lands, and different decks competing for certain cards that tend to get used in many decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this can be done for around $25-$30.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also possible to buy &quot;fat packs&quot; on sale for $30 or so, and then you can sell off the rares and mythic rares for $15-$45, depending on the market value of what you were lucky (or unlucky) enough to get. But doing it this way subjects you to a lot of randomness and you may get stuck with lots of commons you don't want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to participate in tournaments (which you can do with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Pauper_Magic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pauper format&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Peasant_Magic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;peasant format&lt;/a&gt;), you will likely want to supplement with a few commons you lack. So you may end up spending another $5 or $10 to supplement your several thousand card collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All told, it is possible to get quite a variety for less than $50, which will provide plenty of fun and variety in casual play. For a few more dollars, you can fine tune some of your decks to compete well in pauper or peasant formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: About half a year after writing this, I started to get serious about competing with Pauper. While still much less expensive than other formats, there is little chance of staying under $50 if you want many competitive pauper decks. Depending on how many competitive decks you want, your total cost could range from $300 to $1200 to have a wide variety of top pauper decks all built and ready to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expenses for competitive pauper are higher than casual play because there is high demand for many &quot;staple&quot; commons that cost $2 or more, such as Lightning Bolt, Rancor, Gitaxian Probe, etc. that you are very unlikely to find in a penny commons bin. If you want to stay under $500 total you'll have to avoid cards costing well over $5 such as Sinkhole, Three Visits, Chain Lightning, and Oubliette. Most competitive Pauper decks do not need individual cards costing over $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T15:56:33.287" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T15:56:33.287" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21310" CreationDate="2014-12-31T08:23:35.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't put counters on creatures just for the fun of it. You can only do so when an effect tells you to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there is no separate rule giving a maximum number of counters that can be added in this way. So however many counters you are instructed to put on a creature by the effects of spells and abilities, that is the number of counters you can put on that creature each turn. If effects tell you to put a million +1/+1 counters on a creature, then you put a million +1/+1 counters on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T08:23:35.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21323" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21346" CreationDate="2014-12-31T08:28:37.307" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;In some situations, you may have units at your HQ with your warlord.&#xA;I know when you commit your warlord to a planet,  all the units at HQ come across with the warlord exhausted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I want to know is what happens to these units once you win a battle at the planet that is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; the first planet? Do they go back to HQ with the warlord,  or do they remain committed to that planet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T03:19:38.807" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T23:18:32.037" Title="Committing units with a warlord" Tags="|conquest-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2014-12-31T11:52:32.657" Score="5" ViewCount="493" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long ago, I think it was in the 1980s-1990s, I once played a game that really made me dizzy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it was a game made by a German game maker. It was a 2 or 3 player game played on a round board, consisting of 6 concentric circles and connecting lines and spirals. The goal of the game  was to create certain combinations of stones, by which you could capture stones of your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you were constantly looking around circles and spirals, you just became dizzy, something you didn't notice while playing, but you noticed when you stood up...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to buy this game , but I don't know the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10372" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T14:13:15.983" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:50:17.187" Title="Looking for a really dizzying boardgame" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21344" CreationDate="2014-12-31T12:16:26.970" Score="1" ViewCount="146" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with a faction such as the Swamp Orcs who have vine walls, the rules state that units roll before moving off of vine walls to see if they take damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But do units still have to roll for damage when they are moved with an event card which says you can pick up a unit and &quot;place&quot; it elswhere? In other words, would an event that lets you pick up a unit and place it elsewhere on the board require a roll for damage when the unit is taken from a vine wall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:59:01.567" Title="Using Event Cards to Move off Vine Walls" Tags="|summoner-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21319" CreationDate="2014-12-31T14:01:31.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the good ideas in Joe's answer, another thing you can do is find budget deck lists that you like and only buy the specific cards you need for those decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find a deck list you can find a fourm online that has deck lists like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation&lt;/a&gt;, there they have different forums for each format, and most of them include Budget sub-forums. They also have forums for the Pauper (all commons) and Peasant (a few uncommons, but mostly commons) formats which due to their nature tend to be fairly budget friendly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a deck list, either taken from a list online or created yourself, the next thing to do, before you go out and buy the cards, is test the deck and make sure that you like it and it plays well. There are a couple different ways that you can test your deck without buying the cards, the first is by creating proxies of the cards to use only while testing. The simplest way of doing that is to just write everything about a card on a piece of paper and put it in a sleeve with another card behind it for support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other way of testing a deck without buying the cards is with a system like &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TappedOut&lt;/a&gt;, this site lets you input a deck list and then lets you play test it against a 'goldfish' (an opponent that has 20 life, but never plays cards or responds to what you do in any way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This testing phase is important because it allows to try a deck out to make sure you like it, and it allows you to make sure things like the mana curve is right and the color balance between lands and spells is right and other things like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you are done testing you can finally go and but your cards, if you have a local gaming store that sells bulk commons/uncommons and you can get everything you want that would be the best place to get your cards because with getting mostly inexpensive cards shipping online will probably end up being fairly expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T14:01:31.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2844" CreationDate="2014-12-31T15:53:15.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have the Bull and the Bear cards constantly being passed faced down (clockwise) as you trade the other cards/commodities with all players.  Bull &amp;amp; Bear cards go around like ring a round the rosy.  You are NOT allowed to have both BULL &amp;amp; BEAR at the same time.  If you have the Bull or Bear card, you can briefly hold it, but you must immediately pass it to the player on your left (clockwise) when the player to your right passes the other Bull or Bear card to you.  Thus the Bear &amp;amp; Bull cards are being passed continually in a circular motion..  - You could choose to glance at these cards as they pass through you with which to remember where they are.  ---- Then when any player corners the market with a set of all 9 of one, the game stops, and the player holding the Bull card receives an automatic point bonus (of 25), and the player holding the Bear card gets a automatic subtraction of points (for example minus 10).  Note:  if you are passed the Bear card but you are still holding the Bull card when someone corners the market (rings the bell/end of the round) then you receive a penalty of minus 50 points for having both Bear &amp;amp; Bull cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10374" LastEditorUserId="10374" LastEditDate="2014-12-31T16:13:38.497" LastActivityDate="2014-12-31T16:13:38.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2844" CreationDate="2014-12-31T16:26:52.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option (for BULL &amp;amp; BEAR) - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Include both the Bull and Bear cards - AND 7 random cards of one complete commodity set of 9.   Thus two cards which are two different commodities would be discarded when using the Bull &amp;amp; Bear card. Thus no one will know which other commodities have an extra card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All players will have TEN cards at all times.   But you just need a set of 9 to win/corner the market.  And the normal Bull and Bear point rules apply.  So having Bull card the player gains bonus points.  Having the Bear card the player minus points.  And having both Bull &amp;amp; Bear loose double points.   And obvious there are two commodities that could not be finished unless you had the BULL card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10374" LastEditorUserId="10374" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T11:42:03.437" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T11:42:03.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21330" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21332" CreationDate="2015-01-01T04:15:01.970" Score="2" ViewCount="7189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fate Reforged is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-fate-reforged-2014-12-29#anchor4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;introducing a new mechanic&lt;/a&gt; called dash. It's reminder text is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may cast this spell for its dash cost. If you do, it gains haste,&#xA;  and it's returned from the battlefield to its owner's hand at the&#xA;  beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is...  can dash be played at flash (instant) speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T05:08:28.920" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T14:35:22.690" Title="Can Dash from Fate Reforged be used at instant speed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T05:06:20.963" Score="-2" ViewCount="1318" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have only played settlers and got the cities and knights expansion.. there are ships on the trade calendar. . We have no ships. In settlers, you still use those items not sell them back. How do I get a ship and use it so I can buy a market. What do I do to flip the science flip? Get a knoght, promote, and activate? There is no explication at all in the rules and it frustrates us to no end.. please for the love of all help&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10378" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T15:03:44.430" Title="please explain how you use the city calendar" Tags="|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2015-01-01T05:26:15.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official rules are not out yet, but my guess is no. The templating on the reminder text strongly suggests that &amp;quot;Dash&amp;quot; will function as an alternative cost that does not affect when you can cast a spell. In this regard, it would be similar to the &amp;quot;Evoke&amp;quot; mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For creatures with flash, you would be able to &amp;quot;Dash&amp;quot; at instant-speed (similar to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Briarhorn&quot;&gt;Briarhorn&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T05:26:15.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21331" CreationDate="2015-01-01T06:04:29.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are missing the separate rules book for Cities and Knights. You might want to take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; to download a pdf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T06:04:29.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21335" CreationDate="2015-01-01T06:17:41.177" Score="2" ViewCount="1248" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 7 Wonders, do the science symbols on Babylon's wonder mat count for victory points? Say I've built the second level of the A side and I have no other science symbols. Do I get one point for each of the three symbols and seven for the 1 set of three symbols?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10380" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T08:12:45.680" Title="Does Babylon's wonder count for scientific structure victory points?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21334" CreationDate="2015-01-01T07:31:09.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Babylon's A second stage (or B's third stage) allows you to get &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; scientific symbol of your choice at the end of the game, if you have built it. If you do, it counts for the scientific points. It works exactly like the Scientific purple card &quot;Scientists' Guild&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: you have 4 &quot;Gear&quot; green cards and build Babylon's 2nd stage. You can convert it to a 5th &quot;Gear&quot; at the end of the game and earn a total of 25 points for 5 &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; green cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="10362" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T08:12:45.680" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T08:12:45.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21331" CreationDate="2015-01-01T14:28:18.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ships are used only if you are combining C&amp;amp;K with Seafarers, if you are just playing C&amp;amp;K you just ignore them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To flip any of the sections of the flip-boards you need a certain amount of the appropriate commodity (book for green,  linen for yellow, and coin for blue) it shows how many of the commodity you need at the bottom of the top half of the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T14:28:18.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21330" CreationDate="2015-01-01T14:35:22.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-fate-reforged-2014-12-29#anchor4&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Fate Reforged&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dash doesn't change when you can cast creature spells—usually only during your main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if the creature has flash you can cast it at instant speed, but otherwise you can only do it during your main phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T14:35:22.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21338" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T16:39:55.967" Score="11" ViewCount="1809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the number of games played on every different board sizes on DGS (Dragon Go Server):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;| Size | CNT    |&#xA;+------+--------+&#xA;|    5 |   2464 |&#xA;|    6 |    466 |&#xA;|    7 |  11015 |&#xA;|    8 |    434 |&#xA;|    9 | 101230 |&#xA;|   10 |   1256 |&#xA;|   11 |   3166 |&#xA;|   12 |    716 |&#xA;|   13 |  65205 |&#xA;|   14 |    455 |&#xA;|   15 |   4656 |&#xA;|   16 |    315 |&#xA;|   17 |   1145 |&#xA;|   18 |     91 |&#xA;|   19 | 639319 |&#xA;|   20 |    293 |&#xA;|   21 |    371 |&#xA;|   22 |    104 |&#xA;|   23 |    265 |&#xA;|   24 |     79 |&#xA;|   25 |   3657 | &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see boards of odd size are much much more popular than boards of even size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In total: 99.5% of games have been played on boards of odd size, while only 0.5% of games have been played on boards of even size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seems to be something severely wrong with boards of even size...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my first question is: what is the problem with boards of even size?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wondered why 19x19 is the number one most popular size for Go boards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the accepted answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5516/why-is-the-19x19-board-so-much-more-common-than-other-sizes&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; says, the principal reason that the 19x19 board is considered to be the best is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it is the largest board size on which there are more points on the sides (under the third line) than in the center (above the fourth line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I found that to be inaccurate! The board size with the best balance between territory (on the sides) and influence (in the center) is not 19x19, it's 20x20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Black puts all his stones on the third line, and White puts all his stone on the fourth line, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 19x19 board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under area scoring: Black has 192 points, White has 169 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under territory scoring: Black has 136 points, White has 121 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a 20x20 board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under area scoring: Black has 204 points, White has 196 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Under territory scoring: Black has 144 points, White has 144 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my second question is: why not a 20x20 board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10385" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:53:17.270" Title="Why do all Go board sizes have an odd number of lines? Why is a 19x19 board so much better than a 20x20 board?" Tags="|go|board-size|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21338" CreationDate="2015-01-01T17:08:29.750" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just speculation: Boards with even lengths are rarely used because there is no &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Tengen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tengen&lt;/a&gt; and because handicap stones cannot be placed &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?StarPoint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;point symmetrically in a 9x9 grid&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3648" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T17:08:29.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21442" CreationDate="2015-01-01T17:23:17.897" Score="4" ViewCount="2054" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taboo_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taboo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, one player has a word that they are trying to get their teammates to say (e.g. &quot;Apple&quot;) within a short amount of time. I have often found that teammates will guess the plural word when they are trying to get the singular word (e.g. &quot;Apples&quot;) or vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some players I have played with have said that this is acceptable while others have said that the answer is not correct unless the correct form is guessed (e.g. after the team says &quot;Apples&quot;, the player must tell them that them need to say the singular form of that word).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My version of &lt;em&gt;Taboo&lt;/em&gt; (2012) doesn't say one way or the other which view is correct. So does the team get points if the word is singular but they guess plural?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T17:28:48.470" LastActivityDate="2024-01-06T00:04:28.193" Title="Does the team get points if the word is singular but they guess plural?" Tags="|party|taboo|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21341" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:31:59.363" Score="7" ViewCount="22007" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Texas Holdem last night with some friends at my house and this was the hand we were dealt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My cards 7♠ 6♦&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His cards 10♠ 7♥&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards on table  6♠ 8♠ Q♠ J♠ 2♠&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Odd hand. Everyone else folded after the flop. Who would have won?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My arguments, 1. Because there is a flush on the table our pocket cards are void and we split the pot. 2. Because the Queen is the highest ♠ card on the table it is shared by both of us so we split the pot. I thought that in a flush the only card that matters is the highest for example if he had a pocket K♠ he would have won. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His argument, was that since his 10♠ is higher then my 7♠ he won and takes it all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were all confused and the vote between players was split 50/50 so i said house rules and split the pot. He got pissed and left the table and didn't come back. Was i in the wrong? Any help is appreciated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10388" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T22:36:52.977" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T22:36:52.977" Title="Texas hold'em flush Tie or Not?" Tags="|poker|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-07-23T09:25:26.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21338" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:47:40.253" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Almost all go boards are x by x, where x is an odd number (e.g. 9, 13, or 19).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is to have the product yield an odd number of potential points. So that there would be an odd number of points in the game and a clear winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(In the Japanese counting style of &quot;points,&quot; it is possible for both players to have the same number, but under the Chinese counting style of points plus stones played, the sum of the two players' results will be an odd number.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:47:40.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21341" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:50:58.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The higher flush wins the pot.  And a Q-J-10-8-6 is better than a Q-J-8-7-6 so your opponent won the pot.  It's the same for any other non-flush hand where the highest cards form the tie break.  Then you compare the next one and the next until 5 cards are in both hands.  Then if both 5 card hands are &lt;em&gt;identical&lt;/em&gt; it's a tie.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, your 3rd best card lost to his 3rd best card.  He should have won the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="10162" LastEditDate="2015-01-01T22:02:30.393" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T22:02:30.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21326" CreationDate="2015-01-01T21:59:01.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you do not have to roll for units that are removed from a Vine Wall if they do not move.&lt;/strong&gt; The word &lt;em&gt;move&lt;/em&gt; is a keyword in Summoner Wars, and unless the ability or event specifically uses it, the movement would not be considered a &lt;em&gt;move&lt;/em&gt;. Note that during the movement phase, units move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/sum_forums/archive/index.php/t-1208.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; over on the Plaid Hat Games forums reiterates this: &quot;Note that this only applies to 'moving'. Abilities that place a [card] somewhere are not affected by Vine Walls.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-01-01T21:59:01.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21380" CreationDate="2015-01-01T22:27:20.303" Score="1" ViewCount="54" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished a game at GoKGS and the opponent offered me a review. When we ended, the opponent has left first, then I closed the window with the review in a good hope CGoban will ask me if I want to save it - but it didn't! The review got lost!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it because the other player had the control? Is CGoban asking only the player in control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any way to recover the review?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T02:01:40.407" Title="CGoban 3 doesn't ask for saving a review!" Tags="|go|kgs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21323" CreationDate="2015-01-01T23:26:05.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After rereading the '&lt;strong&gt;Learn to Play&lt;/strong&gt; rulebook closely, I found the answer on &lt;strong&gt;page 11&lt;/strong&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player wins a battle at any other planet, his warlord (if it&#xA;  was committed to that planet) returns to his headquarters, maintaining&#xA;  the state (ready or exhausted) it was in at the end of the battle. The&#xA;  planet remains in play, and &lt;strong&gt;other surviving units remain at that&#xA;  planet&lt;/strong&gt;, also maintaining their state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, any non warlord units at a planet that is not the first, will remain there after the battle is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T23:18:32.037" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T23:18:32.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21347" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-01T23:30:59.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/warhammer-40000-conquest/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Warhammer 40,000: Conquest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player card game that is set within the Warhammer 40,000 (40K) Universe. Each player takes control of a warlord and the forces under that warlord's command, and contests a series of battles over key planets. Play is at once tactical and strategic, as players must deal with both the immediate conflict, while also planning and preparing for future stages of the campaign. Seven factions are represented in the game: Space Marines, Astra Militarum, Orks, Chaos, Dark Eldar, Eldar, and Tau. Each faction is located on an alignment wheel, thereby having two adjacent, neighboring factions. (As listed above, Space Marines are considered neighbors to the Tau.) A number of unaffiliated (neutral) cards are also available for use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Categorized by type, cards represent various tactical and strategic assets available to each player. The warlord unit card represents the commander who leads a player's forces. A player's deck is built around his/her warlord. Other cards represent army units, attachments, events, and supports that a warlord may have at its disposal: army unit cards represent a variety of aliens, soldiers, armies, vehicles, drones, creatures, heroes, and villains; attachment cards represent items, skills, weapons, conditions, blessings, and curses; event cards represent battle maneuvers, actions, spells, disasters, and other unexpected twists; and finally, support cards represent locations, fortifications, and upgrades. Token unit cards, miniature cards that are not a part of a player's deck, represent common &quot;stock&quot; troops that are available to select factions and are used only as indicated by other card effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck construction begins with a player selecting one warlord plus the 8 signature cards that belong to that warlord. Taken together, these cards comprise the core of a deck. Next, a player may add any number of nonsignature cards from his/her warlord's faction to his/her deck as well as neutral cards. A player may also add any non-warlord unit cards from one (and only one) of the warlord's two neighboring factions, as long as those cards are neither loyal nor signature cards. Up to 3 copies of any nonsignature card, by title, may be added to a deck for a total of no fewer than 50 cards (minimum), not counting the warlord. Constructed decks may consist of up to 2 factions, the warlord's faction plus one neighboring one, plus neutral cards but are not required to have more than one faction represented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game play consists of deploying cards to the tableau either to planets directly or to each player's respective HQ, participating in command struggles for strategic resources &amp;amp; influence at planets, and fighting your opponent's forces at key planets over one or more combat rounds. A players wins the game by collecting 3 planets sharing the same type; there are three different planet types, each representing a different, yet critical, strategic need: material (red), tech (blue), &amp;amp; strongpoint (green). Some planets have only a single type, while others have either 2 or 3 different types. Each turn, one planet--the first planet--is contested for its strategic value (type symbols). With only 7 contestable planets in any given game, this effectively puts a timer on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Warhammer 40,000: Conquest&lt;/em&gt; follows Fantasy Flight's Living Card Game (LCG) model, so that card distribution is fixed with no random element to purchasing cards. The core set has enough cards to build decks starter decks for each of the seven core factions. &quot;War Packs&quot; are expansions released regularly that contain 60 cards, usually three copies of each card, thereby providing new options for the various factions, including neutral cards. Larger deluxe expansions typically include more cards than that found in two War Packs. Future expansions are planned to add two more factions: the Necrons (neighboring all factions) and the Tyranids (neighboring no other faction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="7069" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T12:56:16.170" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T12:56:16.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21348" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-01T23:30:59.593" Score="0" Body="A Living Card Game (LCG) produced by Fantasy Flight Games set in the Warhammer 40,000 Universe." OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="7069" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T12:56:40.017" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T12:56:40.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17982" CreationDate="2015-01-02T00:31:04.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I finally got it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a problem called &quot;Monitor EVERYTHING!&quot; and it reduces the cost of Report Resources by one. &quot;Outshine Them All&quot;, being a Report Resource and with  only 1 cost, can be played at this problem for free. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the new Crystal Games set has multiple cards that start faceoffs at problems, which I imagine also works for this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I hope it's alright to check my own answer as correct?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7876" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T00:31:04.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2015-01-02T03:31:52.963" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules specifically state that the Climber &quot;may&quot; take 1 other player with her when she &quot;moves,&quot; which I take to mean that it's the Climber's prerogative whether or not she takes anyone &quot;when she moves,&quot; so I would say, &quot;Yes,&quot; the combination is valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Navigator moved another player (the Climber) up to 3 unblocked (for the Climber anyway) tiles per Navigator's action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Climber took 1 other player with her when she moved.  (The spirit of the Climber seems to be an ability to tether a non-Climber to the Climber -- possibly with a quick-release D-ring. I can see how the Climber simply untethered (no action) the Archaeologist, went back for the Meteorologist, quickly tethered (no action), and delivered the Meteorologist to safety.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very clever indeed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10390" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T03:31:52.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21355" CreationDate="2015-01-02T03:36:51.140" Score="1" ViewCount="72" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the cities has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play immediately: Draw one card for each city you are infecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you draw a card for that city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T07:14:46.063" Title="Do you infect the city you are scoring?" Tags="|pandemic-contagion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21341" CreationDate="2015-01-02T04:10:40.797" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent won the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that there's a flush on the table isn't relevant to whether or not your pocket cards matter. Each player creates the best 5-card hand that he can out of the total 7 cards (2 pocket cards plus 5 table cards). While it is possible that the best 5-card hand is the 5 table cards, that is not the case here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best 5-card hand that you could make was Q♠-J♠-8♠-7♠-6♠, and the best 5-card hand that your opponent could make was Q♠-J♠-10♠-8♠-6♠. Your opponent's resulting 5-card hand was better than yours. You both had a flush, so you look at the highest card you each had. This was a tie, so you look at the second-highest card. Still a tie, so you look at the third-highest. Your opponent's third-highest was an 10, while yours was an 8, so he wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T21:35:17.917" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T21:35:17.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21353" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21354" CreationDate="2015-01-02T05:35:11.663" Score="1" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when the prize pile is frozen in canasta, and all but one player has only 1 card in hand, assuming no players have a canasta yet, and the player with more cards has already melded-in?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurred when playing a round of 3-person canasta. Both other players were down to two cards, while I had 6 cards in hand, and I had just taken the discard pile. I had already met the entry meld requirement. I then baited the next person in turn order to take the prize pile by discarding a card they wanted, they did and so ended the turn with one card in hand. That player then did the same thing to the remaining player. When it comes around to my turn, I am the only one with a hand and the other two have 1 card in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I froze the prize pile, seeing an opportunity to basically play all cards in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, we all had a laugh (none of us are very experienced at this game) and decided to pack up the game with a nebulous winner, since it was late (I was thousands of points behind at this point: 1895 points versus 3595 and 3135.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right that in this situation, I can basically play the whole remaining deck? My thought process is as follows: I have 5 cards in hand, containing two pairs in suits I have not melded yet. I wait for the prize pile to get nice and fat (neither of the other two players can play anything) and then I take the prize pile, melding the minimum to do so (I can take the pile using either of the pairs in my hand.) At this point, I can just re-freeze the empty pile. If I do so, then there is a very high chance that I can take the pile again in subsequent rounds, because I have multiples in almost everything. Alternatively, I can just play the oodles I have and let the game continue, even I will have substantial card advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10392" LastEditorUserId="10392" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T06:02:29.023" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T06:10:50.207" Title="Frozen prize pile in canasta when all but one player has only 1 card in hand?" Tags="|canasta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21353" CreationDate="2015-01-02T06:10:50.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your thinking is correct. If you are the only player who has more than 1 card in hand, then there is nothing to stop you from melding the rest of the cards in the draw pile. This has happened to me in a 2 player game (when playing draw 1 instead of draw 2). Nothing here would be different about 3 players. Your opponents have no way of ever legally picking up the discard pile or going out as long as your first discard after picking up the discard pile is a wild card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You most likely should have been able to play out that hand and won the game. Being thousands of points behind wouldn't have mattered; you likely could have gotten enough points on that one hand to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T06:10:50.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21351" CreationDate="2015-01-02T07:14:46.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The designer has confirmed this &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1281279/city-card-timing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;There are a few city cards which are play immediately and refer to the number of cities you currently infect. Does that include the current city card you are in the middle of resolving? or just all the other city cards where you have cubes?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;For question one: it does not include the current city card you are resolving. It has been eradicated, so no longer among the living.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T07:14:46.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21319" CreationDate="2015-01-02T09:19:13.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In case your local store doesn't have a bargain bin for commons, Wizards specifically releases a product that can help with this, the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicmadhouse.co.uk/magic-the-gathering-c1/magic-2015-m15-deck-builders-toolkit-p70944/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deck Builder's Toolkit&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains over 150 cards, which allows for roughly 5 decks at a time, but obviously those decks can be broken apart and re-configured. Critically it also contains a suite of Basic Lands, which can actually be a pain to get a hold of, as stores need to keep hold of some of their opened land stock for Limited events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards will also be only from one Standard environment, so you won't get into a situation where you're playing cards with wildly different themes or over-powered combinations. Everything will &quot;fit together&quot; nicely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, this is a &lt;em&gt;giftable&lt;/em&gt; product, where you can give someone the box as a whole product and it has the necessary instructions for them to get started. And don't underestimate the value of having a box to hold Magic cards in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T09:19:13.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21357" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21359" CreationDate="2015-01-02T11:21:10.110" Score="2" ViewCount="4053" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that in basic version of SoC each settlement must be at least two roads away from any other settlement. In Seafarers expansions you can build ships, so my question is - does this 'roads rule' also applies to ships? I haven't found anything about this in instruction for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, can you build two settlements like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;O&lt;/code&gt; is the settlement, &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; is the ship&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/38e7z.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T14:07:26.930" Title="Building settlements over the sea" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21370" CreationDate="2015-01-02T11:36:53.803" Score="4" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the diver is able to reach the edge of the island, are they then allowed to swim around the edge to reach another tile on the edge of the island? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically this would be sea, just as removed tiles are, but I suspect that this is not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7079" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T00:43:16.607" Title="Can the diver swim around the outside of the island?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21357" CreationDate="2015-01-02T14:07:26.930" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's pretty obviously NO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 2 of the rules  - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Except where noted below, Catan: Seafarers uses the same&#xA;  rules as The Settlers of Catan&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 4 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shipping routes act as roads across water (or along the&#xA;  coast). You build and place ships in much the same way as&#xA;  roads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AND it specifically states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your shipping route reaches a coastline, you can then&#xA;  build a new settlement on that coast, even if it is a new island.&#xA;  Of course, you must still obey the “distance rule” from basic&#xA;  Settlers, even if you are building on a new island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So ships are 'water' roads and you still need two hex sides between settlements/cities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T14:07:26.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21331" CreationDate="2015-01-02T14:42:17.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The flip book is only divided based on the commodity it takes to flip the page. They are color coded: Blue for the Coin commodity, Green for the Paper commodity, and Yellow for the Cloth commodity. It takes one Coin to flip the blue page for the first time, then two coin the second time, etc. The same goes for the other colors. Each of these &quot;flips&quot; allows you better odds of drawing a progress card that corresponds to that color. Using the red die as the indicator. After paying one Coin to flip the blue card for the first time, if a blue is rolled on the action die and either a one or a two on the &lt;em&gt;red die only&lt;/em&gt; then you draw a blue progress card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T14:42:17.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21361" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-02T15:43:39.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pit is a popular card game that simulates open outcry bidding for commodities. It can play between 3 and 7 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T21:06:00.907" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T21:06:00.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21362" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-02T15:43:39.467" Score="0" Body="Pit is a card game that simulates open outcry bidding for commodities." OwnerUserId="96" LastEditorUserId="96" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T21:05:56.607" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T21:05:56.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21358" CreationDate="2015-01-02T19:29:03.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you're asking if the board &quot;wraps around&quot;, can the diver swim from the left side to the right side? From the top to the bottom? Answer is definitely &quot;no&quot; on that one, it would be mentioned in the rules if it was.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As to the other possible question you might be asking, &quot;can the diver swim through ocean to get to another island tile&quot;, there's no need.  The island is square-ish so you can always traverse from A to B by staying on the island.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Perhaps you're wondering if the ocean can be used as a short-cut somehow?  I really don't see how.  A square is still a square.  You need to be the Pilot in order to move more than 1 square at a time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T19:29:03.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21319" CreationDate="2015-01-02T20:37:19.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question focuses more on casual play than tournament play.  But for a long time, there was a nice column that dedicated itself to creating tournament level decks on the cheap.  That column is no longer being maintained, but was called &amp;quot;Magic on a Budget&amp;quot; and I've found the thinking there extremely helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160107071540/http://archive.wizards.com/magic/magazine/archive.aspx?tag=building%20on%20a%20budget&amp;amp;description=building%20on%20a%20budget&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T15:00:24.250" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T15:00:24.250" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21368" CreationDate="2015-01-02T21:06:19.093" Score="7" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Strong pass&quot; systems are classified as Highly Unusual Methods, so most players never worry about them. My understanding is that they are not particularly overpowered (otherwise all the pros would have switched to them) but that one needs highly detailed defensive methods to defeat them and it's not worth memorizing these methods for the casual player. I am curious what these methods look like. Has any team ever played a Strong pass system at the national or international level, and what sorts of defenses did their opponents come up with?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T23:01:36.013" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T03:02:26.533" Title="Defense to Strong Pass Systems" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-02T21:52:09.080" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the title's wording is a bit confusing, so here's an example scenario:&#xA;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Etherium+Sculptor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Etherium Sculptor&lt;/a&gt; in play and I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=209714&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chimeric Mass&lt;/a&gt; for 0 mana. My understanding (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/21128/how-do-i-handle-casting-a-spell-with-a-cost-of-x-when-the-casting-cost-is-reduce&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; and my understanding of the rules) is that Chimeric Mass will have one charge counter on it as opposed to zero. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10397" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T21:52:09.080" Title="Does reduced casting cost affect casting of cards with variable casting cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-01-03T00:28:48.660" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21375" CreationDate="2015-01-02T22:05:50.017" Score="1" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;At this page (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/help/tilde.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.gokgs.com/help/tilde.html&lt;/a&gt;) I read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your whole list of games (i.e. all those played in the last 180 days) ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This kind of suggests that &quot;my whole list of games&quot; = &quot;all those played in the last 180 days&quot;, which suggests that in my list there are never games older than 180 days, which suggests that they get deleted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T11:02:12.557" Title="Do my games in the GoKGS get deleted after some time?" Tags="|go|kgs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21365" CreationDate="2015-01-02T22:17:34.057" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strong Pass systems are very rare, and as a &lt;em&gt;Highly Unusual&lt;/em&gt; method you will never encounter one outside extended team play or without notice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In extremis, adopt your &lt;em&gt;Strong 1C&lt;/em&gt; defence by substituting a 1C call for a double of a 1C opening, and warm up the &lt;em&gt;Double&lt;/em&gt; cards if opponents open a fert (any call besides Pass that is definitely limited) instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anecdotes and alternatives from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/topic/42615-defense-against-strong-pass/&quot;&gt;BridgeBase.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When I met it years ago, I played that a One Spade overcall said &quot;I am&#xA;  present at the table&quot;. The next player bid 1NT, alerted as Stayman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Need&quot; is a strong word, but it's always a possibility to consider&#xA;  making your &quot;opening bids&quot;, especially in the majors, be more akin to&#xA;  overcall strength than full openers. This is tougher for the minors&#xA;  because you might need to make convenient minor full opening bids and&#xA;  it can be harder to distinguish them from overcall-style openings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If they 'open' a pass bid as much as you can as fast as you can. If they open a &#xA;  fert be prepared to double them lots with balanced&#xA;  hands and your overcalls are more like opening bids with shape. If&#xA;  they open with something else then use your generic meta defence and&#xA;  bridge principles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and even:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use an anti-fert over the fert.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1H  = 0-8,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1NT = 0-10.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Its a lot of&#xA;  fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-01-02T22:23:45.777" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T22:23:45.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21248" CreationDate="2015-01-02T23:30:58.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem was that I ran it directly from the page: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/applet.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.gokgs.com/applet.jsp&lt;/a&gt; - this doesn't allow to change the language (options are reduced).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I downloaded and installed CGoban3 at my computer (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/download.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.gokgs.com/download.jsp&lt;/a&gt;), it works as expected and I can change the language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-02T23:30:58.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21358" CreationDate="2015-01-03T00:43:16.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to being able to move normally, the Diver may move through one or more adjacent missing and/or flooded tiles for 1 action. A missing tile is one that has sunk. This has been &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5032587#5032587&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;confirmed&lt;/a&gt; by the game's creator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T00:43:16.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2015-01-03T01:52:38.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use 8 sided dice by each trait. It's easy to see and keep track, but I like the paper clip suggestion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10400" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T01:52:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21372" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21381" CreationDate="2015-01-03T02:18:00.050" Score="0" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/155428/dc-comics-deck-building-game-crisis-expansion-pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Crisis Expansion (Pack 1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/125678/dc-comics-deck-building-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;DC Comics Deck-Building Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; introduced a new Crisis Mode, which allows for cooperative play and &quot;Crisis Cards&quot; that involve villains' plans. There has been one that has bothered me in particular, &quot;Alternate Reality&quot;, which says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ongoing:&lt;/strong&gt; At the start of your turn, destroy all Heroes in your hand. Gain that many random Villains from the destroyed pile and put them into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To Beat:&lt;/strong&gt; Your team must destroy 12 cost worth of Heroes in their discard piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that each player of the team must destroy 12 cost worth of Heroes in each of their discard piles? Or do they have to collectively have at least 12 cost worth of Heroes (say, 3 points in each of 4 discard piles)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T03:10:00.993" Title="Does the &quot;Alternate Reality&quot; Crisis require each player to destroy 12 cost worth of Heroes?" Tags="|dc-comics-deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21374" CreationDate="2015-01-03T05:41:03.800" Score="2" ViewCount="1611" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using your four cards to get a treasure item do the treasure cards (and any extras that may be drawn or in another's possession) get removed from the game? This seems to drastically increase the number of times Waters Rise is drawn since the deck gets thinner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T08:05:07.513" Title="When a treasure is recovered do you remove those treasure cards from the deck?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21373" CreationDate="2015-01-03T08:05:07.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you capture a treasure, discard cards to the Treasure discard pile and move the&#xA;  figurine in front of you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also where encountered &lt;em&gt;Waters Rise!&lt;/em&gt; cards are placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard the Waters Rise! card to the Treasure discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T08:05:07.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21367" CreationDate="2015-01-03T11:02:12.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mentioned list of games is the list that is displayed in your profile. It only displays games from the last 180 days and only the games in the last 180 days are considered for the rank graph. You can review these games directly (right click on a game in the list --&gt; &lt;em&gt;Load in ...&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Load in (P)&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All games (even these which are older than 180 days) are listed in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/archives.jsp&quot;&gt;archive&lt;/a&gt;. There you can access all games which are not private. Unlike the games which not older than 180 days you must download them first to review them. I just don't know if &lt;em&gt;private&lt;/em&gt; games are just not accessible in the archive but accessible on demand or are even deleted.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3648" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T11:02:12.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21377" CreationDate="2015-01-03T18:42:43.277" Score="1" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thrashing%20Wumpus&quot;&gt;Thrashing Wumpus&lt;/a&gt;, with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keen%20Sense&quot;&gt;Keen Sense&lt;/a&gt; on it and I spend 3 black mana to activate the ability of the Thrashing Wumpus, I get to draw 3 cards right? (If I have only one opponent that is) It doesn't matter if I tap all the mana in the same phase of my turn does it? The 3 black mana spend is still considered 3 individual activations of the Thrashing Wumpus' ability right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T18:49:07.130" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T19:17:47.743" Title="Thrashing Wumpus and Keen Sense" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21376" CreationDate="2015-01-03T18:58:45.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Keen Sense will trigger three times. Thrashing Wumpus' ability only costs one black mana to activate, so if you've spent three black mana, you've activated it three times. There's nothing weird in the rules about combining identical spells/abilities. When you activate an ability, you simply pay the cost (one black mana in this case) and put it on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can choose to let the first activation resolve before activating it a second (and third) time, drawing your card before deciding whether you want to activate it again. Most likely this is the way you want to do it, in case you draw something you'd rather spend your mana on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if you use the ability three times consecutively (without letting the previous ones resolve first), they still all go on the stack separately. If you then let everything resolve, the stack would evolve like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{deal 1 damage} {deal 1 damage} {deal 1 damage}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{deal 1 damage} {deal 1 damage} {draw a card}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{deal 1 damage} {deal 1 damage}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{deal 1 damage} {draw a card}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{deal 1 damage}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{draw a card}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T19:17:47.743" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T19:17:47.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21378" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21418" CreationDate="2015-01-03T23:28:53.290" Score="16" ViewCount="1374" Body="&lt;p&gt;A while ago a friend of mine pulled an interesting card in a pack of Urza's Legacy. The back was normal, but the front was solid black with a white M on it. I can't find the card right now, but I made an image of roughly what it looked like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think at the time I was told it was a placeholder for when there was extra room on the cutting sheet, and was accidentally included in the pack. I cannot remember which rarity slot it occupied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find out &lt;strong&gt;how much it is worth, or if there is any information about it online?&lt;/strong&gt; Googling &quot;magic m placeholder&quot; and variants of that are not turning up anything useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/787gj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7280" LastEditorUserId="7280" LastEditDate="2015-01-03T23:41:27.597" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T17:58:55.750" Title="Weird m &quot;placeholder&quot; card" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2015-01-03T23:45:35.537" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played with scrabble letters for trains(on the US version). Played it twice no problem. Loads of competition :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10407" LastActivityDate="2015-01-03T23:45:35.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21345" CreationDate="2015-01-04T02:01:40.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;KGS has a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of quirks, and this is one of them. The review is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KGS will ask only the playing starting the review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that KGS does also &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; offer to save any games which were started by loading a local file. This bit me in the butt far too often...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T02:01:40.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21372" CreationDate="2015-01-04T03:10:00.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Turns out that this is actually answered in the Specific Card Clarifications section of the Crisis rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate Reality, Final Countdown:&lt;/strong&gt; To beat one of these Crisis cards, the team acts together and chooses which cards to destroy. The burden is on the collective team, so each player does not destroy their own set of cards to beat the Crisis. For Alternate Reality, you don't have to destroy exactly 12 cost worth of Heroes to beat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it clearly says, &quot;each player does not destroy their own set of cards&quot; and it's up to the team to pick and choose which cards from which discard piles to destroy so that the total is 12 (or more) points of Heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T03:10:00.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22955" CreationDate="2015-01-04T04:49:11.043" Score="0" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24225/boxcars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Boxcars&lt;/a&gt; for the first time. The game was enjoyable, but involved too much luck for my group (dice rolls determine start, movement, and destination) given the long play time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To win, one player must return to their starting location before being caught by another player. Depending on the random locations, this can be either trivial or impossible. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=1811&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules [PDF]&lt;/a&gt; suggest optionally removing this catch-the-winner mechanic, but I think this might cause more harm than good. It also falls short of addressing the core problem. Some luck is okay, but there's just too much here. I feel like something could be tweaked to make this into a much more strategic and enjoyable game. How can I reduce the luck factor so this 4-hour game doesn't feel like a waste of time determined by the final few dice rolls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3661" LastEditorUserId="3661" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T16:35:22.080" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T07:46:16.823" Title="House rules to decrease luck factor in Boxcars" Tags="|house-rules|luck|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21387" CreationDate="2015-01-04T05:18:59.047" Score="7" ViewCount="1370" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Android: Netrunner &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20Tournament%20Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; say the choice of banned cards is up to the tournament organiser.  With the single exception of banning &quot;All That Remains&quot; at world level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Authorized Cards&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Android: Netrunner cards produced by Fantasy&#xA;  Flight Games are legal for tournament play (unless banned). No other&#xA;  cards or proxy cards are permitted. In North America, cards are legal&#xA;  upon their release. Competitors outside North America should check&#xA;  with their TO to determine which cards are tournament legal.&#xA;  Exception: All That Remains is not legal for the World Championships&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's so special about &quot;All That Remains&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10410" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T12:54:25.117" Title="Why is &quot;All that remains&quot; banned from Android: Netrunner World Championships?" Tags="|android-netrunner|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20362" CreationDate="2015-01-04T08:04:47.613" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be surprisingly little information about the origin of the name &quot;Chinese Checkers&quot;. The game itself was first released in 1892 in Germany as &quot;Stern-Halma&quot; (literally &quot;Star-Halma&quot;), indicating that it was a variation of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halma&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halma&lt;/a&gt; that was played on a star-shaped board. But there doesn't seem to be any solid information about why the name &quot;Chinese Checkers&quot; became associated with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that I could find was &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.playchinesecheckers.com/CCHistory.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a history of the game&lt;/a&gt; on PlayChineseCheckers.com, which despite sounding authoritative is written by an anonymous author who doesn't back its claims (not to mention has a website that looks like a GeoCities page from the 90s) and so &lt;strong&gt;the following passage should be taken worth a grain of salt&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first Chinese Checkers game to be published in the United States was 'Hop Ching Checkers' in 1928 by J. Pressman &amp;amp; Co. This was exact the same game as the 1892 Star-Halma. The brothers Bill and Jack Pressman made up the name 'Chinese Checkers' during or shortly after 1928. The game was given a Chinese name and theme in keeping with the current interest in all things oriental (among them the discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1922 and the 'mah jongg' game that was introduced in 1923)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to stress again that despite this being a really solid-sounding explanation, the author is anonymous and there are no sources to back up this claim, so it's not clear whether or not this is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a great deal of searching, I did not manage to find a more authoritative source on the subject, so the true origins of why the game is called &quot;Chinese Checkers&quot; may remain a mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T08:04:47.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21385" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-04T08:18:37.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Call of Cthulhu: The Card Game&lt;/em&gt; is a Living Card Game (LCG) produced by Fantasy Flight Games set in the Cthulhu Mythos. It was first published as the &lt;em&gt;Call of Cthulhu Collectible Card Game&lt;/em&gt; before being converted into a Living Card Game in 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T03:17:33.653" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T03:17:33.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21386" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-04T08:18:37.807" Score="0" Body="A Living Card Game (LCG) produced by Fantasy Flight Games set in the Cthulhu Mythos." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T13:45:40.623" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T13:45:40.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21383" CreationDate="2015-01-04T12:54:25.117" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is nothing banned in All That Remains.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exception was added in the update to the Tournament Rules for the World Championship to clarify that because it was being released so close to the Championship, it would not be legal (since players would not be able to adequately play with it first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect this exception to be removed in the next update now that the World Championship has concluded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1678" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T12:54:25.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-04T17:06:12.070" Score="1" ViewCount="20565" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a city has two knights for one player and one knight for another, does the player with two knights get the double point bonus for that city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10411" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-04T20:34:20.223" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T20:40:23.517" Title="Carcassonne city scoring" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-01-05T21:08:24.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21388" CreationDate="2015-01-04T20:25:37.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the city is completed, the player(s)&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt; with the most knights in the city gets points for the city in the amount of two per tile plus two per banner&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. No other player receives any points for that city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when completing a three-tile city without banners, the player with two knights will receive 6 points, and the player with one knight will receive none, just like if there was only one knight in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the event of a tie, each of the players tied for the most knights gets all of the points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Half that for incomplete cities at the end of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A city is complete when it is surrounded by walls and there are no gaps in the walls or the city. There can be any number of sections in a city. &lt;strong&gt;A player who owns a knight in a completed city scores 2 points per tile in the city (count the tiles and not the sections). Each banner in the scored city also gives the player 2 points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What if there are more than one follower on a completed road or city?&lt;/strong&gt; With some clever tile placements, it is possible to connect road and city sections, resulting in a road with more than one thief or a city with more than one knight. &lt;strong&gt;The player with the most thieves or knights scores the totality of the points. In case of a tie, the tied players each score the points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the final scoring, &lt;strong&gt;incomplete&lt;/strong&gt; roads, cities or monasteries are scored. A player who has a follower on an incomplete road, city or monastery scores &lt;strong&gt;1 point per tile&lt;/strong&gt;. For cities, &lt;strong&gt;each banner is also worth only 1 point&lt;/strong&gt;. In case of a tie, use the same rules as for &lt;strong&gt;completed&lt;/strong&gt; features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis in original)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T20:40:23.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21388" CreationDate="2015-01-04T20:34:35.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If by double point you mean banner or other point influence in an expansion, yes. The winner of the meeple showdown wins it all, no divisions except in case of ties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T20:34:35.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21340" CreationDate="2015-01-04T20:40:50.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is generally a house rule, but generally the widely accepted answer is that any form of the word is correct. You can't use the variation to change the word, e.g. , but other than that, knock yourself out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T20:40:50.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20569" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:05:43.770" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely. If you are knocked out by a Baron or any other card, you must discard your card face up so anyone can see. Also, at any given time, &lt;b&gt; any player can look through any other player's discarded cards stack.&lt;/b&gt; Also, when you discard a card &lt;i&gt; for any reason&lt;/i&gt;, it goes face up in your stack.This goes for playing cards, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T21:05:43.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:15:51.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way that I use lets you accommodate up to eight players. You will need two decks of Love Letter cards, and two tokens distinctly different from the tokens of affection. Remove one Princess, and give each player two tokens. Play normally, but when someone would be out, have them discard their card and draw a new one. Then they get rid of one of the tokens. When they have no more tokens left, they are out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-04T21:15:51.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21394" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21407" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:28:22.627" Score="1" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules of the first Saboteur is specified that each player can have in front of them a maximum of 3 cards ( doesn't specify if blocking cards or other ).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case I use a Theft card and I put it in front of me, does it occupy a slot for the number cards in front of me ? If the answer is yes, means that I can be blocked with maximum of 2 blocking cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T22:24:32.047" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T22:24:32.047" Title="Count Theft card as card in front on the player" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21408" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:33:41.720" Score="4" ViewCount="1089" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use more than one Theft card in Saboteur 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2018-11-04T22:23:59.257" LastActivityDate="2018-11-04T22:23:59.257" Title="Can I use more than one Theft card" Tags="|saboteur-2|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21406" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:40:06.703" Score="1" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a continuous road to a Treasure Card, and that treasure card is not the Gold Card, can I place a new road card right in between the Treasure Cards and to flip the next Treasure Card, or do I have to build a new road starting from begining ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T01:55:17.773" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T21:29:47.393" Title="Place road card in between the Treasure cards" Tags="|saboteur-2|saboteur|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21405" CreationDate="2015-01-04T21:45:14.273" Score="1" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the road go beyond the 9x5 card grid ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10413" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T01:55:38.183" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T21:32:23.093" Title="Can the road go behind the Treasure Cards" Tags="|saboteur-2|saboteur|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21280" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:08:36.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also a very similar game called Love Letter. Probably not what you're looking for, but I thought I'd mention it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:08:36.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8928" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:14:16.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're teaching people how to play, explain on a need-to-know basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-You're on the same team, but someone will betray you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-On your turn you move the same amount of spaces as your speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-You have to stop if there is a symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first started teaching people to play, I tried to explain everything at once. It didn't works o well. Other than what I've listed, just explain as you go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T05:15:44.803" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T05:15:44.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21415" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:17:06.577" Score="2" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Seven Wonders - Babel Expansion, when can the reward tokens that allow a player &quot;to construct a Stage of their Wonder for free&quot; be used?  Can they be used immediately or do they just remove the cost (except coin costs, as noted) but still need to be played on a normal turn by discarding a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question came up during a recent game when a player with Rhodes (B-side), who had participated in the successful project that awarded these tokens, wanted to immediately complete a stage, thereby giving them military dominance over a neighbor.  Without finding anything explicit in the rules, we denied the request, supposing that to build a stage the player must have a card in hand to discard and place under their board for that stage.  I'm hoping someone else has a ruling that can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T01:39:14.033" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T16:22:29.243" Title="When can the &quot;build a wonder stage for free&quot; tokens be used?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-babel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8347" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:18:15.473" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One extremely satisfying and amusing thing to do that breaks tension and provides comic relief is to provide sound effects for everything that happens, including sneaking up behind people and whispering &quot;I am a ghost, come to haunt you...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:18:15.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8280" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:23:02.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played this haunt a while back, and this is a legit way to win. It's sacrifice, and while it doesn't make sense, neither does sneaking into an old house, placing dolls of people you don't even know, finding all these people, setting up an &quot;accident&quot; so they all happen to meet at this specific haunted house, then revealing yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:23:02.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21400" CreationDate="2015-01-05T00:33:13.133" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happens immediately. If, for any reason, you would want it to happen later, you could make up a house rule if you and other players see fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T00:33:13.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21397" CreationDate="2015-01-05T01:50:07.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. There is no limit on where you can build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bSMpM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T21:32:23.093" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T21:32:23.093" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21396" CreationDate="2015-01-05T01:54:46.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like gems, coal lumps due not bock the road. The path to the treasure may pass through a card with a coal lump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they wanted the path to be blocked, they would have used something like the existing 4-way dead-end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gg6Jf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4-way dead end&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on experience, starting from the original ladder would not be feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T21:29:47.393" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T21:29:47.393" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21394" CreationDate="2015-01-05T03:45:38.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You appear to be referring to this passage from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Saboteur.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At any given time, a maximum of three such broken tool cards may be in front of a particular player, but only one card of each type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that each player has three tools, that is a meandering way of saying&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At any given time, only one broken tool card of each type may be in front of a particular player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of the rule is that it's useless to break a tool twice. This has nothing to do with the Theft card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T21:34:37.003" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T21:34:37.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21395" CreationDate="2015-01-05T03:49:21.127" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't, because &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;no player can have 2 action cards of the same type affecting them at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is part of the passage that introduces cards like Theft, so while you're technically not &quot;affected&quot; by a &lt;em&gt;Theft&lt;/em&gt; in front of you, it would seem that a loose interpretation is in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hands Off&lt;/em&gt; uses wording that implies a player could have multiple &lt;em&gt;Theft&lt;/em&gt; cards (&quot;remove one Theft card from in front of any player&quot;), but that's probably just more imprecise wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are the other restrictions on on playing actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot break a player's tool when that player's tool is already broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot fix a tool that's not broken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot play a &lt;em&gt;Theft&lt;/em&gt; card while trapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the above, it's conceivable one might be forbidden from taking following useless actions, but they aren't actually forbidden by the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing a &lt;em&gt;Hands Off&lt;/em&gt; card on someone who doesn't have a Theft card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing a &lt;em&gt;Free At Last&lt;/em&gt; card on someone who isn't trapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing a &lt;em&gt;Trapped&lt;/em&gt; card on someone who is trapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T03:47:24.967" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T03:47:24.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T04:54:23.557" Score="6" ViewCount="1632" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the players suggested that the team leader should be able to pick the team and not include himself in it, so we decided to try that for one game. We were playing with 10 people. As we tried this out, I got the role of Merlin and immediately knew who all (except mordred) the bad guys were. The first team that the team leader picked was all good people and we passed the first quest. The next quest leader was on his left, and he was in the first quest, so logically we told him to pick that same team and add one person. And after we added that person, he was also good and we passed the quest. However, now the next quest leader was a bad guy, but because we are allowed to pick the team without the leader in it, we basically forced the bad guy to choose the previously same successful team without the quest leader (who was bad), because after all, if the bad guy didn't, then obviously that guy is bad or else why would they not pick the team that had no troubles? This strategy ended up in a 3-0 match, and the assassin didn't guess me correctly. So the good guys won quickly and easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We all thought that this rule seemed kinda weird, so I wanted to ask you guys who played more than us to explain this to me. Should the quest leader have to include himself? because if not, than the game could happen like what happened before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10415" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T05:20:50.090" LastActivityDate="2022-10-16T10:58:59.143" Title="Is the quest leader required to be part of the team?" Tags="|the-resistance|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-05T07:01:21.500" Score="7" ViewCount="1815" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Knight card is unique because it can be played on your turn before the dice is rolled. We ran into an interesting scenario last night where one player played the Knight and then rolled the dice, without stealing... And then we realized it. What's the best course of action? Is the roll null until he steals? Or did he forfeit his right to steal? Or does he steal after the roll? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On one hand, he now knows the value of the roll which could influence what he steals. On the other hand, forfeiting a steal might not be allowed (otherwise you might do so if you had 7 cards, to evade a 7 being rolled). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10416" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T14:27:18.193" Title="Forgetting to steal in Settlers of Catan" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21412" CreationDate="2015-01-05T07:27:02.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Game rules don't tend to say anything about what to do if you don't follow them, so it's up to you to figure out what the most fair thing is to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, since you noticed it basically right away, I would be inclined to go back and let him steal, and then redo the roll. Unless you're being extremely competitive or you think that the people you play with are inclined to cheat in the way you mentioned (and he actually had 7 cards), I don't really see the need to punish someone for forgetting for a moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you noticed it much later (say, once a turn or two had gone by), it's probably best to just leave it be, since it's hard to really reverse things at that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T07:27:02.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12778" CreationDate="2015-01-05T09:47:13.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;War Raptor gains its bonuses after it is played.  Not before.  Minion abilities trigger upon hitting the ground as it were.  So its a 2 when it lands and THEN becomes a 3 right away.  So it can be played on the Homeworld under the conditions of that base. (For that same reason it couldn't be played on the Tzars palace.) As for OP's question about the Tzars palace - it's very simple.  If you play a general bonus like Howl it is in effect until the end of your turn.  Your minions during that period gains the ability. Hence when you play a minion whose printed power is 2 during that time it should be considered a 3 until the Howl card is no longer in effect.  So it can land safely on the Tzars palace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10418" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T09:47:13.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21400" CreationDate="2015-01-05T12:19:21.570" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to also use a card, as in the base game. In order to understand it better, look at the previous token, &quot;construct a building for free&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player takes from the reserve a corresponding token. They can return this token to the reserve to construct a Building for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to construct a building, you have to play it from your hand, right? So, next time you construct a building from your hand, you may throw in the token and declare &quot;&lt;em&gt;I am constructing it for free&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. You can't obviously construct immediately an additional building for free, as your hand would have less cards than the other players and thus break the game's mechanism. It works exactly like Olympia's A 2nd wonder bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same story for the wonder token:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player takes from the reserve a corresponding token. They can return this token to the reserve, to construct a Stage of their Wonder for free. Note: if the cost of the Wonder stage contains 1 or more coins, these must still be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to construct a wonder, you &lt;strong&gt;have&lt;/strong&gt; to put a card below the corresponding wonder stage, to indicate that it has been built (and to remove a card from the game, as well). Thus, you keep the token and the next time you construct a wonder stage you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; discard the token to ignore the resource cost. If you could immediately construct a wonder stage, how would you indicate that the wonder has been constructed? A basic principle of the game is that no memory is required; thus, you have to use a card. But you can't just take an extra card from your hand, as you'd leave your hand with less cards and break the game's mechanism.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: you keep the wonder token and the next time you use a card to build a wonder stage, you may discard the token to ignore the resource cost of your wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T12:19:21.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21412" CreationDate="2015-01-05T14:12:05.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When we play, while it is still someones turn we tend to let them do things out of order as long as it isn't abused (mostly accidents).  If someone actually does things out of order to 'cheat' then I would watch them like a hawk for the rest of the game and then not play any with them anymore.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally until then next person rolls the dice things can be 'fixed' but we generally ask each other anyway.  If a new player isn't doing well, I'll even let them draw their forgotten resources from a different role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing very seriously then you have them steal the resource and everyone can vote if the dice should be re-rolled by the offending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T14:12:05.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21412" CreationDate="2015-01-05T14:27:18.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two issues here, and I think they each deserve a separate answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you forget to steal, do you forfeit your right to steal a card?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you go back a step in the game, do you re-take each step including rolling the dice?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is personal preference, I would say he forfeited his right to steal. It's not just he who missed the steal, it was the other players as well. It could be that people's hands have changed because they've received resources from the dice roll, and you'd have to account for that. In that, you would need to rely on everyone's honesty about (and memory of) the cards they'd received.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Re-rolling the dice after backtracking is something I never do, as a rule. If there's a possible argument about whether or not the dice should be rerolled, it's better not to, to avoid all discussion. No one is impartial in a game of Settlers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T14:27:18.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21378" CreationDate="2015-01-05T17:58:55.750" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be called a &quot;filler&quot; card, and that word seems to be key to successful Googling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here for more info, entry 031 is the one you posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magiclibrarities.net/348-rarities-filler-cards-english-cards-index.html&quot;&gt;http://www.magiclibrarities.net/348-rarities-filler-cards-english-cards-index.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to be pretty rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T17:58:55.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21421" CreationDate="2015-01-05T18:20:49.550" Score="19" ViewCount="1702" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened this weekend, and we were unsure how to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitus&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;On my turn, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphist%20Jest&quot;&gt;Polymorphist Jest&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Then I cast, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Mutation&quot;&gt;Darksteel Mutation&lt;/a&gt; targeting the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitus&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, I could not target the Progenitus because it has Protection from Everything, but since it lost all abilities and became a frog, it was a valid target (We thought so anyway). It was at the end of this turn that we were unsure. Polymorphist's Jest effect ended, but the Darksteel Mutation was still enchanting the creature. This is what we thought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Progentius has Protection from Everything and the Enchantment &amp;quot;falls off&amp;quot; as it is no longer a valid target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Insect has no abilities apart from Indestructible, and the Enchantment stays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something Else???&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really hoping this is #2 since this combo would allow for targeting of things with shroud and hexproof, etc. on the turn I cast Polymorphist's Jest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9874" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-01-05T19:10:31.870" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:31:34.327" Title="Enchantment Legal only because of it's Effect. Remains on target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21419" CreationDate="2015-01-05T18:32:31.903" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choice number 2 is the correct one: the Progenitus is an Insect with no abilities except Indestructible and the Aura stays attached to it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 613.1&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The values of an object's characteristics are determined by starting with the actual object. For a card, that means the values of the characteristics printed on that card. For a token or a copy of a spell or card, that means the values of the characteristics defined by the effect that created it. Then all applicable continuous effects are applied in a series of layers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key point is that determining the values of an objects characteristics involves applying &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; applicable continuous effects. Also, since we start with &quot;the actual object&quot;, any effect that causes Progenitus to lose the ability is applied &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; its own ability, it ends up without the ability no matter what the relative timestamps are. So, as long as the Aura is attached, whenever state-based actions are checked, the Progenitus doesn't have Protection, so the Aura stays on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T20:31:34.327" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T20:31:34.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2015-01-05T22:06:25.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used a pair of pliers to gently crimp each clip near the base and now they cling tightly. I should note that it took a little trial and error to find the optimal pressure because the first clip became too tight, but this was easily remedied by gently spreading the clip using a butter knife.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, I would prefer more precisely machined parts, but today I have had no complaints with my modified clips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T22:06:25.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2565" CreationDate="2015-01-05T22:57:49.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This house rule might speed up the game a little bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;friendly robber - doesn't block players with 2 pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;super friendly robber - doesn't block at all, but gives additional resources on hex he's standing on. If settlement - take 2 instead of 1, if city - take 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10373" LastActivityDate="2015-01-05T22:57:49.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2015-01-06T01:46:34.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another way to do it is to boil water and then dump the clips in. Leave them for ten to fifteen seconds, then pull them out and let them clamp around a dime while running cold water over them. Run the water until they are completely cool. I had the ability to do them all at once, but you probably want to do them one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10412" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T01:46:34.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21425" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T02:58:16.613" Score="3" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of questions.... Firstly, do the bad guys reveal themselves before the end of the game and talk to the assassin or does he simply rely on himself. Also, does Oberon reveal himself at the end of the game too? Lastly, can the good guys talk when the assassin is choosing, or must it remain completely silent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10427" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T18:34:33.650" Title="End of game questions" Tags="|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21425" CreationDate="2015-01-06T04:15:51.477" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game no role cards are reveled until the Assassin declares who he thinks Merlin is. The Assassin should be able to remember who the evil players are and determine who Oberon is based on game play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Without revealing any Character cards, the Evil players discuss and the player with the Assassin character card will name one Good player as Merlin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing mentioned about the good players remaining silent or being able to speak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T07:02:44.230" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T07:02:44.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T04:39:57.967" Score="6" ViewCount="3607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario 3 of the Seafarers expansion to The Settlers of Catan is The Fog Island, in which players &quot;discover&quot; the hexes in the middle of the game board by building a road or ship that connects to the intersection of an unexplored hex. The discovered hex may be a land or sea hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Road Building Development Card can be used to build two roads or two ships or one of each. I had a situation in which I was in a position to build a single road/ship to discover an unexplored hex, or a single different road/ship to discover a &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; unexplored hex. I also had the Road Building Development Card, so I could build two roads/ships at once. The question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Must I build both roads/ships from Road Building immediately and then uncover hex(es), or may I uncover hexes as I build the two roads/ships?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, &lt;strong&gt;can I build one road/ship from the Road Building Development Card to uncover the first hex, and then use that information to make my choice on where to build the second road/ship from the Road Building card?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the player with the Road Building card I would prefer to uncover hexes as I build roads/ships so that I can make a more informed choice for the placement of the second road/ship. If the first uncovered hex is a sea hex, for example, I will probably prefer to build the second road/ship to uncover the second hex. But if the first uncovered hex is a land hex with a high probability chip, I might prefer to build the second road/ship alongside it in preparation for building a settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text of the Road Building Development Card seems to imply that the placement of both roads/ships occurs at the same time, in which case I would have to build the roads/ships &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; uncovering hex(es):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place 2 new roads as if you had just built them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/seafarers_rv_rules_111105.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for The Fog Island scenario (page 14) states (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you place a ship or road that connects to the intersection of an unexplored hex, you must &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; draw the top hex from the pile and place it face up in the empty space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponents and I agreed (before I placed any roads/ships) that I could uncover the first hex before placing the second road/ship, based primarily on the use of the word &quot;immediately&quot; in the scenario description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct interpretation? Is this specific question addressed anywhere else? The rules for Seafarers has a small section on the Road Building Development Card, but only to say that it can be used to build roads and/or ships as opposed to just roads. Similarly, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq-page/95&quot;&gt;online FAQ for Seafarers&lt;/a&gt; does not address this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8351" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T13:59:03.853" Title="Seafarers: The Fog Island -- discovering hexes with the Road Building Development Card" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21430" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21431" CreationDate="2015-01-06T05:27:58.447" Score="2" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the Instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt; affect Artifact Creature spells such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stuffy%20Doll&quot;&gt;Stuffy Doll&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-07T14:32:09.940" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T14:32:09.940" Title="Does Essence Scatter affect Artifact Creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21430" CreationDate="2015-01-06T05:55:03.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a ruling on the Essence Scatter Gatherer entry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A &quot;creature spell&quot; is any spell with the type Creature, &lt;strong&gt;even if it has other types such as Artifact or Enchantment&lt;/strong&gt;. Older cards of type Summon are also Creature spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T05:55:03.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21432" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21435" CreationDate="2015-01-06T11:02:18.500" Score="8" ViewCount="5806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this kind of question but here it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm making a board game where there is a deck of monster cards and I'm interested - is there some tool/script that allows to make images for cards from some text file that contains all the needed information (.txt, .xml or something else)?&#xA;What i would like is something like: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) make a .psd with labels for &lt;strong&gt;name&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;defense&lt;/strong&gt; values (also background and other images that can be anything)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) have some file that lists all the monsters names and defense values (where i can quicly change them and regenerate images from that)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can add somehing new later both in psd and this file (like I/II/III for monster difficulty). Optionally - not just change text, but also images (that would allow to change icons from the file, ect.) #dreams&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some tool that allows for this kind of fast iteration?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10430" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T17:40:17.577" Title="How to make cards for a card game?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|prototyping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21427" CreationDate="2015-01-06T13:11:13.943" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a clear distinction between &lt;strong&gt;placing&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;building&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The road building card says you &lt;strong&gt;place&lt;/strong&gt; them as though they are just built. The hex exploration is triggered by &lt;strong&gt;placement&lt;/strong&gt;, not by building. So logically, you would explore the first road's adjacent hexes before you have to place the second road or ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How else could you build the second ship/road if you intend to cross the mist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T13:59:03.853" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T13:59:03.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18918" CreationDate="2015-01-06T14:29:51.373" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bit late, but the interpretation above is correct. I play the game on Fumbbl and on tabletop and in both environments we treat a rock in the same way as for instance a block that broke armour (without damage modifiers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10433" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T14:29:51.373" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21432" CreationDate="2015-01-06T15:05:23.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not quite what you are after, but maybe one of these may help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Adobe InDesign&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.adobe.com/products/indesign.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;InDesign&lt;/a&gt; is (as far as I know) the industry standard for card design, and while it is not specifically made for this purpose, it can most certainly do it, and is the only solution I know of that can directly import a PSD file.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual card data can be kept in a separate file (spreadsheet, or possibly other formats) and combined with the card template via the data merge feature, including the image source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real downside for InDesign is price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a bit more information on what InDesign can and can't do, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://softwarerecs.stackexchange.com/questions/252/software-for-creating-and-publishing-game-cards#answer-595&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; to my own question on the Software Recommendations SE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Magic Set Editor&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magicseteditor.sourceforge.net/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Set Editor&lt;/a&gt; was originally built for one specific game (Magic the Gathering), but now has support for a large number of games through plugins. I've never actually created an original card type with it, but I have used a few mods and looked into their source as well as used it extensively for creating power cards for 4th ed D&amp;amp;D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The library of cards is handled internally within each file (each file is a &amp;quot;set&amp;quot; of cards, however you choose to separate sets for your own work) and content can't be merged from an external file, but it does still provide the separation of template and content you would need to allow updating the template without updating every single card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It hasn't had a release since 2011, but I have never found any bugs with it in the 4-5 years I've used it, and best of all it is free (actually open source).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Strange Eons&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially built for creating custom cards for Arkham Horror, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cgjennings.ca/eons/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Strange Eons&lt;/a&gt; has excellent support for plugins to handle other games and card styles, and while I've never created a plugin for a different game, I did do a bit of development on Arkham Horror-specific plugins a few years ago, and since then its plugin support has only grown better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have a plugin created for your card type each card you make is saved to a separate file, but cards can then be arranged into decks within the program for printing/organisation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The documentation also seems to be fairly thorough and helpful, and it is free as well, but is listed here last since it is probably the furthest from what you are actually asking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T15:05:23.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-06T18:03:08.700" Score="0" ViewCount="62" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the final round of Lancaster do you only have to pay a ransom for knights involved in a battle that has been lost twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7546" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T18:12:03.527" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T15:33:20.963" Title="Final round conflicts in Lancaster" Tags="|lancaster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21432" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:22:42.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are print-on-demand companies which give you the ability to create your complete game with quality parts. You can even list that game online in their store or simply buy one copy for yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Game Crafter&lt;/strong&gt; is one such company: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/help/getting-started&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/help/getting-started&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really dislike their website UI, but I have two friends who have created games using the service and we are &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; happy with the results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any specific graphic design advice, but on The Game Crafter's &lt;em&gt;Getting Started&lt;/em&gt; page you can find links to video tutorials and resources for creating any game component. In addition to their instruction, they provide many templates for use when creating your card decks. I recommend you take a look at the resources they provide. This is where a lot of budding game designers bring their games to life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Edit: I think something like the Magic Set Editor (@winterblood) would be a more robust tool for actually designing your cards and then you can upload that file to Game Crafter if you want a high quality print.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T19:22:42.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="21444" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:53:13.873" Score="3" ViewCount="6488" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humble%20Defector&quot;&gt;Humble Defector&lt;/a&gt; reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Draw two cards. Target opponent gains control of Humble Defector. Activate this ability only during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony controls Humble Defector and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Butcher%20of%20the%20Horde&quot;&gt;Butcher of the Horde&lt;/a&gt;. He activates Humble Defector's ability and holds priority. He then sacrifices Humble Defector to activate Butcher of the Horde's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Humble Defector's ability resolves, does Anthony draw two cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-06T19:54:57.983" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:07:41.430" Title="What happens if Humble Defector is sacrificed before its ability resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-01-07T16:52:11.913" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21340" CreationDate="2015-01-06T19:57:21.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with @MazelTov that many people probably allow derivative forms as successful guesses, but I do not believe that was the intention of Taboo's designer. Some games may explicitly allow forms of the guess word, but Taboo is all about the WORD. It should be an exact match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the rule for a successful guess is very concise when it refers to guessing &lt;em&gt;the correct guess word&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;SCORING A POINT Each time a teammate shouts out the correct Guess word, the Clue-giver’s team scores a point. The guessed card remains&#xA;  on the easel. The Clue-giver quickly draws another card and puts it on&#xA;  the easel in front of the already-guessed card(s). The number of&#xA;  guessed cards in the easel is the number of points the Clue-giver&#xA;  earns for his or her team.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, some people find this pure interpretation to be frustrating in actual gameplay. With that in mind, I think allowing for singular/plural is probably more acceptable than other derivatives (mountain/mountainous), but anything other than the actual guess word is a house rule. Naturally, house rules are intended to improve the gaming experience, so it's important to announce such rules at the start of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T19:57:21.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21441" CreationDate="2015-01-06T20:02:46.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Abilities exist on the stack independently of their source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that even if the object that has the ability changes or ceases to exist, the ability spawned from it will go on to resolve as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, that means you get to draw two cards, then the targeted opponent attempts to gain control of Humble Defector and fails to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:02:46.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21441" CreationDate="2015-01-06T20:07:41.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, because there is nothing in the ability that requires the Defector to still be on the battlefield as it resolves, and an ability on the stack exists independently of its source it will happily resolve and do as much as it can. In this case giving an opponent control of the card is impossible so you will just ignore that text and do as much as you can, in this case draw 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Any part of an instruction that's impossible to perform is ignored. (In many cases the card will specify consequences for this; if it doesn't, there's no effect.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:07:41.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14912" CreationDate="2015-01-06T20:28:30.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a website with the odds you are looking for:&#xA;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://amecy.nfshost.com/pinochle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://amecy.nfshost.com/pinochle/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;This man wrote a C program to generate the odds for dealt melds and he generously made it open source for anyone to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, he places the odds of a double run at 0.0000040% which is approximately 1 in 24 million. Is he correct? I have no idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pinochle is an awesome game, though I only know the double-deck variety. And with a hand of 20 cards, double runs are far more common. :) I would love to see this program modified to output the odds of double deck, but I lack the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T20:28:30.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22464" CreationDate="2015-01-06T21:22:36.367" Score="2" ViewCount="3067" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a followup to another question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/14912/10414&quot;&gt;What are the odds of getting a double run in four-handed pinochle?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to know the odds of being dealt particular melds in Double Deck Pinochle. I found a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amecy.com/pinochle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;table of odds for Single Deck Pinochle&lt;/a&gt;, but nothing similar for the Double Deck variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how to calculate this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double Deck Pinochle is played with 80 cards: 4 of each rank (A 10 K Q J) for each suit. That's four Ace of Hearts, four Ace of Spades, etc. (Unlike the single deck variety, double deck Pinochle does not include 9s.) All 80 cards are dealt so that each player has 20 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2020-01-07T23:03:50.087" Title="What are the odds of being dealt particular melds in Double Deck Pinochle?" Tags="|probability|pinochle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2015-01-06T22:00:18.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes you can still reserve without being able to get a gold (some disadvantage: you get the card, but not the gold)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes you can still take gem tokens when there are fewer than three colors left (obviously you might get fewer than normal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining these two leads to a useful &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;money-starvation strategy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (esp. in 3-player games) if there is some critical color needed for either the nobles or the middle/top row cards. Reserve up to three of the critical color-generating cards (from any rows) and leave the other player with junk in the first row and excessively expensive junk in the middle row. When you run of gold, the other players are then forced to either buy junk, pick up useless color coins, reserve without getting gold, or even gamble by reserving a random (face-down) card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even better if you &lt;strong&gt;time things so that when you do purchase the cards you've reserved and return useful coins to the supply, they are near their 10-coin limit so can't (net) pick up many coins in that turn&lt;/strong&gt;, letting you try to get your useful money back before they can get it :) and continue the money-starvation for even more rounds (you can't do that with 4+ players, someone will pick up the useful money).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;strong&gt;3-player game, if two of you collude&lt;/strong&gt; you can mess up the third player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one extreme case of a game I played, 10 of the 12 face-up cards ended up being black-producing, which was totally useless for nobles and top row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2358" LastEditorUserId="2358" LastEditDate="2019-02-14T01:08:53.827" LastActivityDate="2019-02-14T01:08:53.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="21448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21288" CreationDate="2015-01-06T22:39:18.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that you could do would be attacking anything in the Japanese sea zone with the American fleet.  The British would then advance on Japanese controlled Asia and with the Americans keeping the Japanese from building ships, it will make it a lot easier as the game continues.  The US will still need to build a slightly bigger navy in order to destroy the rest of the Japanese.  Try not to break up your navy into several smaller armadas.  Just hold off the Germans the your British in Europe and the Russians.  Once Japan is relatively helpless, you can take all but one ship from the Pacific and then, if you can keep Japan at bay, you can start to creep into Europe to help your allies.  Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8451" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T22:39:18.207" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4943" CreationDate="2015-01-06T22:46:02.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If UK does not build a factory in India, then you can still take Sinkiang and attack pearl harbor.  If the do, jus go for a Pearl Harbor attack.  Japan can not afford to lose units like that, quickly making Japan very vulnerable to the Brits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8451" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T22:46:02.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="21450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18199" CreationDate="2015-01-06T23:16:46.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a cost associated with a spell or exhaust card leaves you at 0 stamina or 0 sanity it will resolve before you become injured or insane at the location you cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about Flute of the Outer Gods? &#xA;After the injury or madness, the spell resolves(Either its success or failure state) in the location in which it was cast the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then become injured or insane and are transported to the correct treatment facility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other spells that does not have such dramatic effects (Like plus to combat checks) are rendered useless since you can not perform a combat check after the spell has resolved against the original target which resides in another location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10408" LastActivityDate="2015-01-06T23:16:46.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21340" CreationDate="2015-01-07T19:47:29.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if someone says, &quot;apple pie&quot;? That contains &quot;apple&quot;, and &quot;apple&quot; is what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my view, and I agree with @&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/21442/180&quot;&gt;Clumsy&lt;/a&gt;'s answer here, they &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; said the word - they've just added to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If added-to editions of the term are &lt;em&gt;disallowed&lt;/em&gt;, which I do not think the rules do, then the game would be nearly impossible to accurately play and score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if the word was &quot;mouse&quot;, and someone says &quot;mice&quot; - that needs to be corrected. Because they &lt;em&gt;aren't&lt;/em&gt; the same word + an add-on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-01-07T19:47:29.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21438" CreationDate="2015-01-07T20:00:07.417" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, because you have to pay for &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; captured knights in &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; round (after the first round, obviously), and you fully play through the fifth round before scoring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't ransom a knight [at some point in the game, in particular the fifth round], that knight will not count towards your knight strength for end-game scoring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastEditorUserId="7912" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T15:33:20.963" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T15:33:20.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22451" CreationDate="2015-01-07T23:51:11.117" Score="6" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought a pair of Star Realms decks to allow play with up to 4 people. To make it easier to separate the decks for 2-player play, I was thinking I'd mark one of the decks on the front, with a small mark. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, does this somehow convey any information that wouldn't be available with unmarked cards? Or is knowing which deck the card came from irrelevant in gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10340" LastEditorUserId="10340" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T01:03:39.807" LastActivityDate="2017-01-17T22:07:37.313" Title="Would it matter if I mark a Star Realms deck on the front?" Tags="|star-realms|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22449" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-08T00:45:29.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star Realms is a multiplayer, space-themed deckbuilding card game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each game begins with all players having the same deck. Players spend resources to acquire new cards. Cards often belong to factions, and each faction is geared towards a particular strategy (deck-thinning, acquiring currency, gaining life, damage output, etc). Players combine these strategies in order to sustain their own life total while depleting that of their opponents. The last player alive wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T09:09:26.150" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T09:09:26.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22450" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-08T00:45:29.343" Score="0" Body="Star Realms is a multiplayer, space-themed deckbuilding card game." OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T09:09:19.360" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T09:09:19.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22448" CreationDate="2015-01-08T01:44:14.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No &lt;em&gt;relevant&lt;/em&gt; information is conveyed by marking the front of a card. All cards with the same name are totally interchangeable, regardless of whether they are marked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Logical example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two Vipers in your deck. One is marked, and one is not. There are four possible situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw both Vipers. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that both Vipers are in your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw the marked Viper. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that one Viper is in your hand and one is in your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that the Viper in your hand is marked. This provides no benefit to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that the Viper in your deck is unmarked. This provides no benefit to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw the unmarked Viper. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that one Viper is in your hand and one is in your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that the Viper in your hand is unmarked. This provides no benefit to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that the Viper in your deck is marked. This provides no benefit to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw no Viper. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You know that both Vipers are in your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice that the relevant information available to you is identical in situations 2 and 3. Only the irrelevant information is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Less logical example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider Magic: the Gathering along with every other card game that has foil, promo, alternate art, artistically modified (with restrictions), or otherwise &quot;premium&quot; cards. These are all tournament legal. If premium cards compromised the integrity of the game, I think someone would have spoken up by now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T03:19:03.357" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T03:19:03.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22452" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T04:11:55.790" Score="0" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phelddagrif&quot;&gt;Phelddagrif&lt;/a&gt; group hug deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windfall&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt; as my win condition (obviously I would only use it in an emergency) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elixir%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windfall&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt; with, say, 40 cards in my hand, the text says &amp;quot;Each player discards their hand, then draws an amount of cards equal to the greatest number of cards a player discarded this way&amp;quot;. So, could I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elixir%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; after I discarded my hand, but before I drew 40 more cards? I know this sounds silly as I'd think that it wouldn't work, but if it does then I can do a lot more with my deck. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11450" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T04:34:26.967" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T04:34:26.967" Title="Can I activate an ability after part of a spell has resolved? (please read example)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-01-08T12:45:54.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22455" CreationDate="2015-01-08T04:13:47.980" Score="7" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday we came across a very 'rare' situation in Arkham Horror. We had been lucky with getting one Elder Sign via setup (random possession) and managed to buy another 2 within the first few turns of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to some fortunate Mythos cards, not many gates opened on the first few turns (monster surges or blocked by Kates ability) and so we managed to seal two gates using the Elder signs, resulting in 0 doom tracker tokens on the Great Old One (GOO). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen should we seal another gate with the Elder Sign and no doom tracker tokens were available to take from the GOO?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T03:19:13.703" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T03:19:13.703" Title="No doom tracker markers when sealing a gate with an Elder Sign" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22452" CreationDate="2015-01-08T04:29:10.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you guessed, this little trick doesn't work. There are only two ways to activate an ability or cast a spell while another spell or ability is resolving, and your combo doesn't fall into either one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the spell/ability that's resolving lets a player pay mana, that player can activate mana abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the spell/ability currently resolving explicitly tells you to cast a spell or allows you to cast a spell, you can cast that spell. Even in this case, the newly cast spell waits on the stack until the current spell/ability finishes resolving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CR 608.2f If an effect gives a player the option to pay mana, he or she may activate mana abilities before taking that action. If an effect specifically instructs or allows a player to cast a spell during resolution, he or she does so by putting that spell on top of the stack, then continuing to cast it by following the steps in rules 601.2a–h, except no player receives priority after it's cast. The currently resolving spell or ability then continues to resolve, which may include casting other spells this way. No other spells can normally be cast and no other abilities can normally be activated during resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T04:29:10.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22453" CreationDate="2015-01-08T15:18:46.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would be very rare -- the only time a gate would be placed without a doom token is if it came from a gatebuster. But, theoretically, it could happen -- you seal a gate with an Elder Sign, then a gatebuster opened up another gate, then you used a second Elder Sign to seal it. And you got monster surges all other times. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two rulings I could see is either you couldn't use the Elder Sign (because you couldn't fulfill the full requirements, just like if you didn't have enough clues or money to purchase something), or you would ignore that part of the card and simply seal the gate. Our group would probably choose the latter (although you probably would be smarter to not use the Elder Sign at this point). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T15:18:46.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20417" CreationDate="2015-01-08T17:46:56.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cryptozoic.com/sites/default/files/icme/u2082/at_card_wars_rulebook3_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; seems to suggest that you can only play cards on your own turn, regardless of cost. This isn't explicitly laid out, though it can be inferred from the game giving you actions on your turn only. You could ask on &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.cryptozoic.com/forumdisplay.php?f=74&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the forums&lt;/a&gt; though, Cryptozoic employees answer questions there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11455" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T17:46:56.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21382" CreationDate="2015-01-08T18:19:23.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We roll both our starting location and our first destination at the same time, then choose one of those to be our home city, and start there. This reduces the odds of being stuck with a horrible starting point for the whole game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you may try rolling only a region, and then picking a city within that region to be your home city. Again, this reduces the likelihood of being stuck with a terrible starting point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11457" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T18:19:23.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T18:27:58.647" Score="3" ViewCount="2434" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every time I want to play a minor improvement or occupation do I need to pay what is on the top right hand side every time i play that card? or is it just one time pay and then i can use it for the rest of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11458" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T18:49:25.403" Title="Agricola question about minor improvement and occupation cards" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22459" CreationDate="2015-01-08T18:39:26.443" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pay the cost a single time when you play the card. That is, you take an action that allows you to play an occupation or minor improvement, pay the cost, take the card from your (secret) hand and put it face up on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in your question, you seem to have conflated &quot;play the card&quot; and &quot;use the card&quot;. In the rules, &quot;play&quot; is used as I have used it: playing the card from your hand. If you later use the card (i.e. take advantage of it) you're not playing it. You might have less confusion if you think of subsequent use of the card as using it, not playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, once you've paid and played the card, you're done paying. The card likely has some kind of ongoing benefit, and you don't have to pay again to get that benefit. For example, once you've played &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ljB5j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Field Watchman&lt;/a&gt;, which lets you plow a field when you take a grain, you get that field plowed for free whenever you take a grain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make this feel really obvious, just look at the major improvements. You definitely don't have to spend clay every time you want to use your fireplace!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T18:49:25.403" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T18:49:25.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-08T18:53:01.597" Score="0" ViewCount="1655" Body="&lt;p&gt;[To be clear, this is about the distinct two-player edition called &lt;em&gt;Mr. Jack Pocket&lt;/em&gt;. This is not about the full-size board game &lt;em&gt;Mr. Jack&lt;/em&gt;.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like &lt;em&gt;Mr. Jack Pocket&lt;/em&gt; , but I wonder if it's not entirely balanced. It seems to me that it is much easier to win as the Inspector than as Jack. Or perhaps I'm missing some key strategic element to equalize the odds. Does anyone have a deeper analysis of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T18:55:36.323" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T14:56:22.913" Title="Is Mr. Jack Pocket balanced?" Tags="|mr-jack-pocket|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22462" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-08T20:04:12.130" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-08T20:04:12.130" LastActivityDate="2015-01-08T20:04:12.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22463" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-08T20:04:12.130" Score="0" Body="A Two-player reflection and deduction game with hidden roles, based loosely on the historical figures of Sherlock Holmes and Jack the Ripper." OwnerUserId="10414" LastEditorUserId="10414" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T05:42:31.753" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T05:42:31.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21446" CreationDate="2015-01-08T22:09:56.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The odds of a given player being dealt hands with those melds in them are roughly as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|  MELD TYPE  |   NONE   |  SINGLE  |  DOUBLE  |  TRIPLE  |   QUAD   |&#xA;| Runs        | 0.522113 | 0.476676 | 0.001211 | 0.000000 | 0.000000 |&#xA;| Marriages   | 0.055983 | 0.716652 | 0.221239 | 0.006113 | 0.000013 |&#xA;| Pinochles   | 0.528127 | 0.411803 | 0.058548 | 0.001521 | 0.000001 |&#xA;| Ace Arounds | 0.791536 | 0.206261 | 0.002203 | 0.000000 | 0.000000 |&#xA;| Roundhouses | 0.967973 | 0.032027 | 0.000000 |    [Not Possible]   |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These results are probably only accurate to one or two significant figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand the table - in each row the probabilities add up to 1. Taking the first row as an example - there is roughly no chance a hand will contain four or three runs in a single suit, 0.1% chance it will have a double run in a suit (i.e. ATKQJATKQJ in a single suit), 52% chance it will contain no runs, and 48% chance that it will contain a single run, but no double runs.  Note that if someone is dealt a hand containing exactly one of each of the 20 cards this would be counted as a single run in the above table, because it contains no double runs or better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Method&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than calculate the exact probabilities (as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amecy.com/pinochle/pin.c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;C program linked to in the question&lt;/a&gt; does), I simulated 1,000,000 deals and counted the number of each type of meld in the hand.  The script I used is &lt;a href=&quot;https://ideone.com/j8V5Cr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; in case anyone wants to modify it.  1,000,000 hands took a few minutes to simulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To decide what to look for in the hand I used this &lt;a href=&quot;http://bradwilson.typepad.com/games/2009/12/double-deck-pinochle.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;double pinochle scoring chart&lt;/a&gt;.  I didn't calculate the probabilities of royal marriages because they are identical to the &quot;Pinochles&quot; row.  The other &quot;Around&quot; hand probabilities are identical to Aces Around.  The single deck probabilities contained an entry for &quot;exactly 7 aces&quot;, which I didn't include as it's not a meld (and because it wasn't obvious what the analogous hand would be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A roundhouse is a marriage in each suit, i.e. eight cards total.  Consequently it's not possible to get more than a double roundhouse in a twenty card hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Verification&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To check the validity of the method I made &lt;a href=&quot;https://ideone.com/P4LjLv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some small changes&lt;/a&gt; in order to simulate the single deck 4 player game.  I ran it with 100,000 iterations and the results from this are very similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amecy.com/pinochle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;probabilities&lt;/a&gt; given by the C program:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;|  MELD TYPE  |  NONE   | SINGLE  | DOUBLE  | TRIPLE  |  QUAD   |&#xA;| Runs        | 0.96159 | 0.03841 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 |&#xA;| Marriages   | 0.40970 | 0.57963 | 0.01067 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 |&#xA;| Pinochles   | 0.81385 | 0.18380 | 0.00235 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 |&#xA;| Ace Arounds | 0.97302 | 0.02698 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 |&#xA;| Roundhouses | 0.99973 | 0.00027 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 | 0.00000 |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the triple and quad results are impossible with a single deck, and a double roundhouse is impossible with only twelve cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Suggested improvements&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be interesting to calculate the exact probabilities, particularly for very rare hands.  The exhaustive search method of the original program has to consider about 5*10&lt;sup&gt;9&lt;/sup&gt; hands for four players and 6*10&lt;sup&gt;10&lt;/sup&gt; hands for three players.  For twenty cards chosen from a deck of eighty it would need to consider 3*10&lt;sup&gt;18&lt;/sup&gt; hands. Since the original source said that the three player game was analysed in 12 minutes, we can extrapolate that double pinochle would be done in about 1140 years!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that the probabilities can't be calculated exactly, just that a more clever method would need to be used. The symmetry of the deck should help with this, but the results above were enough to convince me that I wasn't going to get dealt a quad-run any time soon.&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; The chance of a quad-run is about 1 in 10&lt;sup&gt;18&lt;/sup&gt;, as there are exactly four possible quad-run hands (one for each suit), and there are about 3*10&lt;sup&gt;18&lt;/sup&gt; hands in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T07:50:28.077" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T07:50:28.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22467" CreationDate="2015-01-08T23:38:00.647" Score="2" ViewCount="535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that the original text of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBalance%5d&quot;&gt;Balance&lt;/a&gt;, from Alpha, says that someone must discard some number of lands to equalize (sorta).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the most recent reprint, I notice they have to choose some number and get rid of the rest. Is this the same for the old print? (Is it the same card after all?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was old magic kind of like Pokemon (in that when it says discard an energy from this card it means send to the discard pile) where any card not destroyed by battle is considered discarded? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OerPA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10428" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T00:16:36.477" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T08:12:47.323" Title="Did Balance change when its wording was changed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22465" CreationDate="2015-01-08T23:59:11.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the old wordings on cards could be notoriously bad.  You can find the official errata on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382853&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;gatherer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player chooses a number of lands he or she controls equal to the number of lands controlled by the player who controls the fewest, then sacrifices the rest. Players discard cards and sacrifice creatures the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, &amp;quot;discard&amp;quot; has been updated to sacrificing instead of destroying.  The new rules are much more consistent.  So now only cards in a players hand can be discarded, but any permanent in play (such as lands or creatures) can be sent to the graveyard as a result of being destroyed, sacrificed, or other state-based checks.   The old card writers were being lazy, but made the card's text confusing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T00:21:46.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22465" CreationDate="2015-01-09T00:52:04.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, &quot;discard&quot; was once used to describe removal of permanents from the battlefield like &quot;sacrifice&quot; does now.  Consider the original text on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCity%20in%20a%20Bottle%5d&quot;&gt;City in a Bottle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGolgothian%20Sylex%5d&quot;&gt;Golgothian Sylex&lt;/a&gt;, which have you &quot;discard [cards] from play&quot; — they're obviously not talking about discarding cards in your hand!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EJygJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;City in a Bottle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DcPpO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Golgothian Sylex&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T00:52:04.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-09T03:07:41.227" Score="9" ViewCount="18199" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card says &quot;You may discard your whole hand (minimum 3 cards) to charm a single Monster instead of fighting it.&quot; Can I use this on another player to charm his monster? Or does it only apply to a monster I am fighting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11461" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T15:30:25.483" Title="Can you use a Wizard's charm on another player's monster?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22468" CreationDate="2015-01-09T03:45:11.270" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The charms only work for wizards in the combat.  From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q.&lt;/strong&gt; Can a Wizard use his charm ability if he's not involved in the combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A.&lt;/strong&gt; No. The card says this is something he may do instead of fighting a monster. It's not for interfering with others' fights, so the Wizard in question must be the munchkin who opened the door or is helping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice try but you can't charm an opponent's monster unless you are helping in combat.  If you somehow manage to become part of combat, you can betray them by charming to prevent them from killing a monster and gaining a level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T15:30:25.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22465" CreationDate="2015-01-09T08:12:47.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two answers to this question.  One of them is lame.  The other is educational, but I don't consider it as correct as the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lame answer is that yes, the card changed.  This is because the rules back then were different, which means that understanding what a card does is different.  That is, trivially, every card changed when the rules did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't buy this answer you can also consider the fact of the special case: that the original magic rules, and card texts, just weren't well-defined.  Asking if behaviour changed, when behaviour could in many cases only be a matter of Rules-As-Intended not embodied in any discernible object (in objective reality), itself becomes not a matter of answering something definitively but a matter of discerning an &lt;em&gt;opinion&lt;/em&gt; held in the past.  So Old-Balance did 'something', which exists and is basically unknowable.  Balance does a thing, and if that thing equals what Old-Balance did seems to be just like asking if a value is equal to the undefined type - useful to consider that 'false' on principal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The esoteric answer is that there is a difference between discarding &quot;until&quot; your possessions satisfy a property P(x) and choosing possessions satisfying P(x) and discarding the rest.  The second case clearly involves no sequence of actions.  The first case might possibly have been a sequence of actions.  As the order of things matters, the two cards are different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11462" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T08:12:47.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22471" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-09T09:31:19.170" Score="2" ViewCount="11191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing with the Big Gin variant, which is not part of the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I pick up a card from the deck which makes me a Gin hand. Only, I don't realize it due to say, misreading my hand, or I questionably decide to try for Big Gin for extra points, and simply discard my remaining deadwood card without knocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent now draws from the deck, makes Gin, and knocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is the hand scored?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In particular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the defending player receive the Gin bonus?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since the defending player has equaled the knocking player's deadwood count (0), do they receive the undercut bonus even though the knocking player made Gin?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If so, does the knocking player still receive the Gin bonus?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11463" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T17:10:15.120" LastActivityDate="2020-01-29T17:10:15.120" Title="How is a Gin Rummy hand scored if both the knocking and defending player have Gin?" Tags="|scoring|gin-rummy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14015" CreationDate="2015-01-09T11:37:10.027" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We decided that if you use the &quot;draw 1&quot; the you MUST play 1 - if you do not draw an extra card the you DO NOT get to play an extra card - seems to be working but not to the opponent's aid :P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unseen Force works fine oO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11464" LastEditorUserId="1821" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T23:20:57.170" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T23:20:57.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22471" CreationDate="2015-01-09T14:09:05.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent gets 25 points plus 0 points. You do not get a chance to undercut. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/ginrummy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who goes gin can never be undercut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not get a gin bonus because you did not declare gin. You don't have a chance to declare gin because play ended. Play ended because your opponent knocked. Again from Pagat, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;end the play&lt;/strong&gt; at your turn if [...] &lt;strong&gt;Ending the play&lt;/strong&gt; in this way is known as knocking [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-09T14:35:59.290" LastActivityDate="2015-01-09T14:35:59.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22475" CreationDate="2015-01-09T17:48:10.147" Score="-15" ViewCount="2775" Body="&lt;p&gt;More specifically, how many subrules exist in the September 25, 2014 revision of the Comprehensive Rules, located &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/downloads/MagicCompRules_20140926.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Game Concepts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not a rule. This is a header.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;100 General&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also not a rule. This is a subheader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to clarify, CR 100.1 and CR 100.1a are two different subrules. Please explain how you arrived at your number. If your solution can be generalized to cover more than one revision, please note that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T17:03:15.027" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T17:18:40.553" Title="How many rules does Magic have?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22474" CreationDate="2015-01-09T18:02:28.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;strong&gt;2008 subrules&lt;/strong&gt; in the September 26, 2014 revision of the Comprehensive Rules. I found this by running the following command on Linux:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;curl --silent http://media.wizards.com/2014/downloads/MagicCompRules_20140926.txt | \&#xA;  grep -c '^\s*[0-9]\{3\}\.[0-9]\+[a-z]*'&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This downloads the text version of the Comprehensive Rules and then finds every line that starts with 3 digits, a period, more digits, and possibly a letter (which is the pattern that represents a subrule).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of subrules in any other revision can be found by running the same command and replacing the URL with the URL of that revision's TXT rules page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T17:18:40.553" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T17:18:40.553" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22477" CreationDate="2015-01-09T23:50:08.250" Score="-3" ViewCount="733" Body="&lt;p&gt;I claim to be Duke and use Tax if challenged can I back out of using the action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11472" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T02:58:12.530" Title="Can you back out of action?" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22476" CreationDate="2015-01-10T02:58:12.530" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you can't back out of an action after someone challenges your claim. Once you make your decision and give people a chance to challenge it you are stuck with what you declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T02:58:12.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22483" CreationDate="2015-01-10T03:30:53.943" Score="3" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played a board game but forgot the name of it.  Can someone please tell me the title? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You compete with other players to travel to other islands. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your turn, you can place boats in beach spots. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When all the available beach slots are filled, you and the other players on that specific beach travel in a direction out from that beach.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there's nothing immediately adjacent to your beach, you flip a mystery tile to determine if it's another island or sea. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's sea, there's a point cost system for the route you're on requiring a minimum number of different player colors.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You collect points at the end of the game based on how many islands you're on (each island has a different point). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think the game title starts with a &quot;T&quot;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3243" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T08:19:05.433" Title="What's the name of the board game about sailing between islands?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T06:07:01.187" Score="10" ViewCount="93194" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens to enchantments that are attached to creatures when the creatures are returned to your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11473" LastActivityDate="2017-02-05T19:23:52.310" Title="What happens to enchantments that are attached to creatures when the creatures are returned to your hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22479" CreationDate="2015-01-10T06:56:45.173" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;They go to the graveyard, just as they do if the creature leaves play in any other way. From the basic rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some enchantments are Auras. An Aura enters the battlefield attached to a permanent and affects that permanent while it’s on the battlefield. If the enchanted permanent leaves the battlefield, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: creature goes away, aura dies, nice and simple, whether the creature was destroyed, exiled, bounced back to its owner's hand, or stuck back in its owner's library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you prefer the detail of the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main exception is that if the enchantment happens to be an enchantment creature with bestow (for example, if you've attached a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Baleful%20Eidolon&quot;&gt;Baleful Eidolon&lt;/a&gt; to your creature), it instead stops being an Aura and becomes a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T06:56:45.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-10T07:28:09.910" Score="5" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an EDH game, I was able to get infinite mana, and I used it to cast a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=109702&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Squall Line&lt;/a&gt; with X = 1,000,000. What is the result of this decision? Do I win, or does everyone lose and thus tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11474" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T15:49:12.603" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T05:27:56.650" Title="What happens when I deal lethal damage to everyone at the same time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22481" CreationDate="2015-01-10T07:47:20.857" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R1044a&quot;&gt;104.4a&lt;/a&gt;. If all the players remaining in a game lose simultaneously, the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the game is a draw. Nobody wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2015-01-10T08:08:23.503" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T08:08:23.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22478" CreationDate="2015-01-10T08:19:05.433" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tongiaki, perhaps?  Description and image à la &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9028/tongiaki&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This game uses a unique tile design never seen in any other game (hexes with wavy edges), and is easy to explain and easy to enjoy. Players all begin on the island of Tonga, and immediate overcrowding forces players to search out other islands to populate. For each expedition that leaves, a new tile is placed, revealing either an island, or a &quot;water path&quot; that may or may not have a number from 2-4, indicating that many different players (not number of boats) must make up that expedition for it to survive the voyage (draw and place an additional tile). In this way, the game encourages both cooperative and competitive play at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/McVco.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample of gameplay&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2015-01-10T08:19:05.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22484" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22485" CreationDate="2015-01-11T15:49:17.937" Score="5" ViewCount="26478" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Hearthstone the other day and was intrigued by a card that causes healing spells to do damage instead.  I was curious if there was ever anything printed in MTG that would have a similar effect, i.e. every time you would gain X life you take X damage instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11481" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-11T20:55:37.827" LastActivityDate="2019-07-31T14:44:03.917" Title="Are there cards which turn life gain into damage instead?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22484" CreationDate="2015-01-11T16:05:51.087" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rain%20of%20Gore&quot;&gt;Rain of Gore&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability would cause its controller to gain life, that player loses that much life instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As well as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Cure&quot;&gt;False Cure&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until end of turn, whenever a player gains life, that player loses 2 life for each 1 life he or she gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sanguine%20Bond&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you gain life, target opponent loses that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T03:15:16.410" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T03:15:16.410" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22486" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-11T18:02:08.403" Score="1" ViewCount="13293" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have taken over all of Australia and I get 2 extra troops.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend then attacks Indonesia from Southeast Asia. When it's my turn I retake control of Indonesia.  Now, do I get 2 more bonus troops since I retook control over the continent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11483" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-02-01T22:57:01.140" LastActivityDate="2020-02-01T22:57:01.140" Title="Bonus continent troops in Risk" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22486" CreationDate="2015-01-11T18:09:16.637" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You gain bonus troops at the start of your turn for controlling an entire continent so as long as you still control Eastern Australia, Indonesia, New Guinea and Western Australia at the start of your next turn you will get the two bonus troops. It doesn't matter if you lose and regain control of all area's in a continent but if you have that control at the start of your turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-01-11T18:09:16.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2015-01-12T01:41:26.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I say that US or UK should take Spain then use it as a base to push in France and the Med because i build a minor industrial complex to build troops and/or ships to fight Germany and Italy from their soft underbelly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11489" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T01:41:26.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22492" CreationDate="2015-01-12T08:14:54.610" Score="5" ViewCount="8545" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Deathtouch (from my creature) apply if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fall%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Fall of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt; is used on an enemy creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say about deathtouch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule that causes creatures dealt damage by a source with deathtouch to be destroyed applies to any damage, not just combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11492" LastEditorUserId="11492" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T15:01:13.983" LastActivityDate="2021-07-19T14:37:33.097" Title="Does Deathtouch apply to damage dealt via Fall of the Hammer?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22491" CreationDate="2015-01-12T08:21:56.443" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deathtouch does in fact apply when Fall of the Hammer is used. Fall specifically says that the first target creature deals the damage, and that means that this is treated just like any other instance of a creature dealing damage to another. Deathtouch applies; Lifelink applies; everything that applies to a creature dealing non-combat damage applies to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T08:21:56.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22494" CreationDate="2015-01-12T12:24:25.300" Score="0" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent is at 1 life. He controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plague%20Spitter&quot;&gt;Plague Spitter&lt;/a&gt; and 2 other creatures (1/1 tokens). In his second main phase, he puts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Link&quot;&gt;Soul Link&lt;/a&gt; on the Plague Spitter and passes the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my turn I do nothing that changes his board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will my opponents die in his next upkeep phase, due to the 1 damage dealt by the Plague Spitter, or will he be able to gain life from his other creatures (and me) taking damage before he takes damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T13:19:37.080" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T13:19:37.080" Title="Will my opponent lose from his own Plague Spitter enchanted with Soul Link, if the Plague Spitter deals him lethal damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-01-12T20:11:36.077" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22493" CreationDate="2015-01-12T12:43:32.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;He dies. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Link&quot;&gt;Soul Link&lt;/a&gt;'s ability is a &lt;em&gt;triggered&lt;/em&gt; ability, meaning that when the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plague%20Spitter&quot;&gt;Plague Spitter&lt;/a&gt; deals damage, the life-gaining ability &lt;em&gt;is placed on the stack&lt;/em&gt;. Before it resolves, state based actions are checked and players get priority. During the state based action check he will be at 0 life, and lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The similar card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spirit%20Link&quot;&gt;Spirit Link&lt;/a&gt; has a ruling on Gatherer that supports that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only gain the life when the triggered ability resolves. If you are reduced to zero life before the ability resolves, you will lose before gaining the life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he had used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lifelink&quot;&gt;Lifelink&lt;/a&gt; instead, the creature would have had lifelink. That &lt;em&gt;changes the way damage is dealt&lt;/em&gt;, so that the controller of the creature gains life as simultaneous part of the damage dealing. He would have survived in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastEditorUserId="6780" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T12:58:44.270" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T12:58:44.270" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22496" CreationDate="2015-01-12T15:30:30.677" Score="2" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Marchesa%2C%20the%20Black%20Rose&quot;&gt;Marchesa, the Black Rose&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbound%20Ravager&quot;&gt;Arcbound Ravager&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Ravager dies, will the abilities of Marchesa and Ravager both trigger? If you can confirm it with rules, that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11495" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-12T15:36:59.050" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T16:09:59.850" Title="Does Marchesa and a creature with modular work together?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22495" CreationDate="2015-01-12T15:36:49.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both are triggered abilities, both would be added to the stack when the Arcbound Ravager dies and resolve independently. It's certainly possible, and indeed happens quite often in the game, that multiple triggered abilities trigger from the same event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T15:36:49.500" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22495" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:09:59.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Ravager dies the modular ability will trigger. As I'm sure you are aware dies means (700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”) So the trigger goes on the stack when Ravager dies. You get to pick what creature the modular ability goes on to. Then during the end step marchesa's ability will trigger bringing Ravager back. The reason the ability triggers is because Ravager had the counter when he hit the graveyard and his ability didn't actually trigger until he is in the graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11497" LastActivityDate="2015-01-12T16:09:59.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22499" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:19:58.390" Score="6" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a ten player &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/casual-formats-2008-08-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Grand Melee&lt;/a&gt;, Anthony controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Reactor&quot;&gt;Darksteel Reactor&lt;/a&gt; with 20 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony has satisfied the trigger condition for Darksteel Reactor. The trigger resolves, and he wins the game. However, with the limited range of influence option, only the person to Anthony's left and right will lose the game. There is now a void on Anthony's left and right, and his range of influence is not reevaluated until the beginning of his next turn. But Anthony never gets another turn because the Reactor will trigger again and again forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens to Anthony now? Can other turn markers bring opponents into Anthony's range of influence so that they will lose to him? In other words, can the void on his left and right ever be collapsed? If not, has he fallen victim to an infinite loop, forcing a draw by his own victory condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T05:59:06.543" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T05:59:06.543" Title="Victory conditions with the &quot;Limited Range of Influence&quot; option" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22498" CreationDate="2015-01-12T16:36:19.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anthony would force himself to draw that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;801.16.&lt;/strong&gt; If the game somehow enters a &quot;loop&quot; of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw for each player who controls an object that's involved in that loop, as well as for each player within the range of influence of any of those players. They leave the game. All remaining players continue to play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grand Melee is set up so that no matter who the Active Player is any given player is inside only one AP's range of influence&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Grand_Melee&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[807.4d]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. This is so that you can't have weird things happen like being within the range of influence of 2 different players at 2 different parts of their turn, because Magic doesn't really support, for example, being in both an upkeep and combat step at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is no way for Anthony to progress any farther in the current turn than the Cleanup Step, the current turn can't end for him. If somehow someones range of influence were allowed to move into him that would then mean he was currently part of 2 separate turns and that just doesn't make sense in Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T16:42:00.183" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T16:42:00.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21432" CreationDate="2015-01-13T07:00:00.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a href=&quot;https://inkscape.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inkscape&lt;/a&gt; with the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/lifelike/countersheetsextension&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Countersheet extension&lt;/a&gt; for this.  It can do everything you need (if I read your question correctly) even being able to choose icons on a per card basis (not a #dream).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can also handle custom card backs as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of all it's completely free&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It works with a svg+csv text file type combo.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZ__PwMZp_8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tutorial&lt;/a&gt; if you'd like to check it out&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastEditorUserId="10430" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T13:32:54.613" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T13:32:54.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21282" CreationDate="2015-01-13T07:14:50.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make some &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/39292/tuckboxes-army-tiles-z-man-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hexagonal tuckboxes&lt;/a&gt;, check out these ones from BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may need to tweak them a bit to deal with your custom tiles, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://inkscape.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inkscape&lt;/a&gt; does a pretty decent job of editing these types of PDF's (YMMV) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7551" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T07:14:50.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22510" CreationDate="2015-01-13T09:49:12.493" Score="8" ViewCount="6749" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Monopoly rules state that if your debt to another player is greater than the cash at hand, you can give property at its original (or higher, if mutually agreed) price to the person you owe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you have, say, 3 stations (worth 600) and 100 at hand, and you have to pay a debt of 500 to another player, and no other player wants to buy them from you (or no other player exists). Can you force the player you owe to take 2 stations plus 100, or even 3 stations, to pay your debt, or is it at his will, in which case he/she can refuse the deal, and declare you bankrupt to him/her, and take all 3 stations and the 100? (Since mortgaging is inadequate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastEditorUserId="10320" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T14:21:37.453" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T22:48:50.177" Title="Can you force property onto players in Monopoly" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22504" CreationDate="2015-01-13T11:06:59.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that when he doesn't want to make a deal you are obliged to take mortgage on your property. If every property you have has mortgage and you still haven't enough you are bankrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To disprove your assumption that property must be given a minimal of the original price I quote this rule I found in this rulebook &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. (which is on hasbro's site so I think it is valid)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unimproved properties, railroads and&#xA;  utilities (but not buildings) may be sold to any player as a private&#xA;  transaction for any amount the owner can get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T14:44:20.960" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T14:44:20.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22504" CreationDate="2015-01-13T14:37:27.797" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot find anything close to what you have quoted in any of the rules I have looked at online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the general rule is: Whenever you would owe money, you have the opportunity to do trading with other players to raise the funds, including with the person who you owe money to, but they are not obliged to accept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This site backs this up and claims it is from official tournament rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mospaw.com/monopoly/some-obscure-monopoly-rules-explained/12/information#comment-5&quot;&gt;http://mospaw.com/monopoly/some-obscure-monopoly-rules-explained/12/information#comment-5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you do not have enough cash to cover rent, you may sell any other&#xA;  asset you have in the game, such as unimproved properties to raise the&#xA;  rent. You can sell the properties for whatever amount the market will&#xA;  bear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may also make a trade of unimproved properties (or properties and&#xA;  cash) to the landlord, which is effectively selling the properties to&#xA;  that person for the amount in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only time a sale cannot take place is if a player will be cheated.&#xA;  For example, Player A lands on Boardwalk with hotels and owes $2,000&#xA;  to Player B. Player A cannot raise enough cash or make a trade with&#xA;  Player B, so he is effectively bankrupt and should turn over all&#xA;  assets. Player A would not be able to make a deal with Player C to&#xA;  sell some properties for less than their value (say the red properties&#xA;  for $1) since that would cheat Player B. He could sell them for more&#xA;  than their purchase value, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is a lot of flexibility in how you can finance your debts. Most&#xA;  limitations are that the deal is limited to the game (you can’t trade&#xA;  a cookie or a kiss) and that you don’t cheat the player due money by&#xA;  making a deal with another player when owing money. Other limitations&#xA;  involve the inability to grant immunity to someone. It’s simply not&#xA;  allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, from the official rules on the Deluxe edition of Monopoly has this to say and supports the general rule I mention above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using a Mortgaged Property to pay a debt:&lt;/strong&gt; If you owe money to any of your opponents, you can offer them a piece of mortgaged property to&#xA;  cover all or part of your debt. Your opponent has the option of&#xA;  deciding whether or not to accept it. If you opponent accepts, he/she&#xA;  must immediately pay 10% of the mortgaged value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/DeluxeMonopoly.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/DeluxeMonopoly.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2015-01-13T14:50:27.857" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T14:50:27.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22508" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-13T19:03:05.037" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;As we know, the non-dealer cuts for the &quot;starter&quot; &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the play happens. Is there any strategic/tactical reason why you couldn't cut for the starter &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the play? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just before the play, the players' hands (and therefore, the crib) have been decided. Does knowing the starter have any impact on the play? If so, how would this change if the starter were determined &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the play? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1885" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T19:02:22.630" Title="How would changing the timing of the &quot;starter&quot; affect strategy/tactics?" Tags="|house-rules|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22486" CreationDate="2015-01-13T19:58:53.037" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer to your question is 'no', but it all &lt;strong&gt;depends on the timeline&lt;/strong&gt; which you haven't clearly explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At the beginning of your turn&lt;/strong&gt; you calculate the bonus armies you receive. In addition to bonus armies for the number of territories you occupy, you receive bonus armies for any complete continents you control. Because this is calculated at the start of your turn, this means you must control these territories for an entire round in order to receive the bonus armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the relevant excerpt from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Continents.&lt;/strong&gt; In addition, at the beginning of your turn you will&#xA;  receive armies for each continent you control. (To control a&#xA;  continent, you must occupy all its territories at the start of your&#xA;  turn.) To find the exact number of armies you’ll receive for each&#xA;  continent, look at the chart in the lower left-hand corner of the game&#xA;  board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you lose Indonesia, then when your turn comes around you no longer control Australia and therefore do not receive bonus armies. If, on that turn, you reclaim Indonesia, you still do not receive bonus armies because that bonus is awarded only at the start of your turn. However, if you hold all of Australia through the next round and still control it at the start of your next turn, &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; you will receive your bonus armies for Australia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only question to ask is &quot;Do I control it at the start of my turn?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10414" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T19:58:53.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22504" CreationDate="2015-01-13T22:48:50.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't &quot;force&quot; a creditor to take your property at full (or higher) value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &quot;fallback&quot; option is to &quot;mortgage&quot; property to the bank for HALF price. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, in theory, sell property to other players (including the creditor) for more than the half price you can get from the bank. (Or sell mortgaged properties for whatever they will bring.) The creditor may agree to this to keep your property out of the hands of a third player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If these maneuvers succeed in raising enough cash to pay the debt, you can continue. If not, the &quot;trades&quot; have to be &quot;undone,&quot; and you have to turn over everything you have to the creditor and leave the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-01-13T22:48:50.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22508" CreationDate="2015-01-14T00:11:06.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are edge cases where it matters. If &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you threw a card in your &lt;em&gt;opponent's&lt;/em&gt; crib&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that card came up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your opponent is close to winning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you are also close to winning&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would consider making more aggressive plays when scoring to try to out-peg your opponent. You may open yourself up to your opponent scoring more off your aggressive plays, but it's a risk you have to take because if you don't then you expect with high probability your opponent will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you concealed the card, you wouldn't have that information about your opponent's crib during the pegging hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if a Jack comes up, that player gets points and can win on the spot if they're close enough. (I forget if it's one or two pegs... but assume they're on the last one to win.) If you are close to pegging out too, you might win on pegging when your opponent would have won if the Jack would have given them the win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T00:11:06.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T12:37:25.010" Score="8" ViewCount="27125" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought and played our first game of &lt;em&gt;Betrayal at the House on the Hill&lt;/em&gt; and we had a great time. Our haunt scenario was with a mummy, I won't spoil more about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whose turn is it when the haunt starts? Is it the turn of the betrayer (who just activated the haunt and who's the betrayer) or is it just normal and is it the player next to him?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In some haunts the betrayer can control multiple characters and/or monsters (like the mummy). Can the betrayer use both his explorer and all of his other minions in the same turn or is it one character per turn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An explorer had found a clue in the library and took the &quot;knowledge roll&quot; token as proof. But then he got killed. We made a quick house rule where the dying explorer had the chance to yell out the clue to the survivors in the house doing a 3 dice 5+ roll. It wasn't clear if the clue token could be dropped and picked up, or even shared with other explorers. In a real life situation I would definitely share this information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6794" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T14:36:46.010" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T14:36:46.010" Title="Multiple questions about Betrayal at the House on the Hill" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13438" CreationDate="2015-01-14T12:54:43.430" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember playing it when I was young. Here is wikipedia entry for it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snakes_and_Ladders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snakes_and_Ladders&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11523" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T12:54:43.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22461" CreationDate="2015-01-14T14:56:22.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No, 55% winning chance for the Inspector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a quote from the designer Bruno Cathala on balance in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/5651651#5651651&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a reply on Boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;concerning balance of the game, i just want to give you some statistics.&#xA;  The final balance has been made with testors belonging to the top of the mr jack players on internet (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mrjack.hurricangames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mrjack.hurricangames.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And, moreover, an artificial intelligence has been developped to help us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I will speak here only about games played exactly with the final set rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If i consider games played by human player against an other human player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;196 games have been played&#xA;  108(55%) won by inspector (96 by primal goal, and 12 after hunting jack because he got 6 hourglasses at the same time he was identified)&#xA;  88 (45%) won by jack (53 by primal goal, 33 staying invisible after being hunted, and 2 by &quot;dawn&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;now let's see what happens when the computer plays against himself:&#xA;  340 games have been played&#xA;  187(55%) won by inspector (140 by primal goal, and 47 after hunting jack because he got 6 hourglasses at the same time he was identified)&#xA;  153 (45%) won by jack (97 by primal goal, 55 staying invisible after being hunted, and 1 by &quot;dawn&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So.. that's the reason why i know that the balance is slightly in favor of inspector, but not enough to really create a problem. (Experience and/or tactic competence is much more important to win ;-))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hoping these results will interest you..&#xA;  all the best&#xA;  bruno&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11524" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T14:56:22.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22512" CreationDate="2015-01-14T14:57:55.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It is the player after (to the left of) the Betrayer's turn.  When the Haunt starts, every player gets a turn before the Betrayer takes his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It probably depends on the actual Haunt, but typically the Betrayer can activate every character he controls, whether they be his own explorer, an explorer he has taken over, a monster, or a board effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T14:57:55.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22516" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T15:30:55.927" Score="5" ViewCount="2213" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play an instant that grants target creature &quot;indestructible,&quot; can an opponent use an instant in response to destroy said creature? Would the stack resolve their ability first? If so, would I be allowed to change target for indestructible? If not, do I still pay the mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11525" LastEditorUserId="23474" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T03:13:37.213" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T13:37:39.180" Title="Granting Indestructible and the Stack" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22516" CreationDate="2015-01-14T15:37:03.977" Score="17" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Would the stack resolve their ability first?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. A spell cast in response to another resolves first (Last In, First Out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;would I be allowed to change target for indestructible?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are about to resolve a spell, the following happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. [...] The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your spell isn't countered by the above check, it continues on to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;do I still pay the mana cost?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already did. The mana cost to cast a spell is payed when casting the spell. Acting in response to a spell means acting after the spell is cast, but before it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't get a refund if your spell is useless. You don't even get a refund if it's countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T15:42:11.497" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T15:42:11.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22516" CreationDate="2015-01-14T15:41:55.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Their spell will resolve first and your creature will be destroyed, the spell granting it indestructible will &quot;fizzle&quot; (go to the graveyard without resolving due to lack of legal targets) you cannot redirect it to a new target, you will have already payed the cost of the spell and you will not get a refund on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would recommend reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 10 has information on the process of casting a spell, responding to a spell, and resolving a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what happens when you cast a spell the very first things you do, before the spell even goes on the stack, are choosing the target(s) of the spell and paying the cost of the spell. Once you have done that your opponent gets a chance to respond. If they do so their spell is put on top of the stack. Once nobody has anything to add to the stack spells will start to resolve (note that one of the players could cast a spell between the one destroying your creature and the one granting it indestructible if they wanted, but for simplicity we will assume that doesn't happen). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first spell to resolve is the last one that was put on the stack, in this case the one destroying your creature. After that resolves the one you cast to give it indestructible will try to resolve, but since it no longer has a legal target it will go to the graveyard without resolving by the game rules, or &quot;fizzle&quot;. When this happens, you do not get any sort of refund on the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T17:42:19.803" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T17:42:19.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22519" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22516" CreationDate="2015-01-14T15:43:03.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer to your question is yes, your opponent can destroy your creature, no you can't change targets and you have to pay the mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer.&#xA;So to cast you spell, you have to pay it's mana cost.  Once it is paid there are no refunds.  You also declare targets at this point.  At this point the stack looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(top)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Indestructible Spell (targeting creature A)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (bottom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then your opponent responds with his spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(top)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Kill Creature Spell (targeting creature A)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Indestructible Spell (targeting creature A)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (bottom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After everyone passes priority we then resolve the top-most spell on the stack, which is to destroy creature A.  So creature A dies.  Now the stack looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(top)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Indestructible Spell (targeting creature A)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  (bottom)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming no one does anything and passes priority again, we then resolve the next item on the stack (grant indestructible to creature A).  We always try to do as much as possible.  Since A is gone, the spell does nothing.  Now the stack is empty and the rest of the turn resumes as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2018-10-17T13:37:39.180" LastActivityDate="2018-10-17T13:37:39.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22512" CreationDate="2015-01-14T16:01:09.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the haunt begins, the player to the left of the traitor always takes the first turn. It doesn't matter who had the last turn (the person to reveal the haunt will not always be the traitor). There are a couple scenarios that change this, but they will specify their own rules in the haunt description. Rulebook, page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Haunt Turn Order&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  The first turn always starts with the player to the traitor’s&#xA;  left and goes clockwise (further away from the traitor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The monsters get their own &quot;monster turn&quot; after the traitor's turn. So the traitor does not control both himself and the monsters in the same turn, but he does control all the monsters right after he's done with his regular turn. Rulebook, page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After each hero has had a turn, the traitor gets his or hertraitor turn. After the traitor’s turn, any monsters controlled by the traitor get a monster turn. (One player gets two turns: one for the traitor and one for the monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All information always openly shared between the heroes. So it doesn't matter which hero found the clue and has the knowledge roll token; all that matters is the total number of knowledge roll tokens found by all heroes combined. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If someone in the house makes a knowledge roll to find out a particular piece of information (a mummy's name, a room that needs to be visited, etc.), do all the other explorers know this information automatically?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes. Perhaps they all have walkie-talkies.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T16:10:25.803" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T16:10:25.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T16:17:12.197" Score="3" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need a little help again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine the following situation: I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Pact&quot;&gt;Grave Pact&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodthrone%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Bloodthrone Vampire&lt;/a&gt; and 9 other creatures on the battlefield. The opponent has only one creature on the battlefield but can prevent all combat damage - no chance to deal damage at the moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I draw &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flesh%20Allergy&quot;&gt;Flesh Allergy&lt;/a&gt;. Great since the opponent has 11 life left over! I want to cast Flesh Allergy, sacrifice 10 creatures (using Bloodthrone Vampire for the remaining 9 creatures, one is sacked through Flesh Allergy itself) and deal 11 damage to my opponent (my 10 creatures including his 1 equals 11 damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~ Question 1: Does my Grave Pact make it impossible to &amp;quot;destroy target creature&amp;quot; (Flesh Allergy) since my opponent would have sacrificed his creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;~ Question 2: What if I first cast Flesh Allergy and after the spell has resolved I (as an interrupt so to speak) sacrifice 10 creatures to deal maximum damage? Then the second ability would resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An educated answer would be much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10137" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T16:21:19.183" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T16:25:57.160" Title="Is Flesh Allergy combined with Grave Pact counterproductive?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22521" CreationDate="2015-01-14T16:25:57.160" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 1: Does my Grave Pact make it impossible to &quot;destroy target creature&quot; (Flesh Allergy) since my opponent would have sacrificed his creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cast the Flesh Allergy targeting their creature, but the spell will fizzle when it goes to resolve since the creature will have already been sacrificed due to Grave Pact's trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question 2: What if I first cast Flesh Allergy and after the spell has resolved I (as an interrupt so to speak) sacrifice 10 creatures to deal maximum damage? Then the second ability would resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no opportunity to cast spells or activate abilities during a spell's resolution. Flesh Allergy checks to see how many creatures have died this turn when it goes to resolve, and creatures that die later in the turn will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T16:25:57.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22533" CreationDate="2015-01-14T20:06:17.337" Score="1" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how the rating system on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.playdominion.com/Dominion/gameClient.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PlayDominion.com&lt;/a&gt; works?  I am familiar with the chess rating system, which is quite, but this is not the one used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5623" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T22:16:29.943" Title="How does PlayDominion´s rating system work?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22527" CreationDate="2015-01-14T20:15:12.207" Score="4" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am a big Dominion fan and have made some &quot;fan cards&quot;.  I have followed &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=699.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these suggestions on how to make your cards work&lt;/a&gt;, have play tested them many times and now would like to share with others some interesting new cards.  Unfortunately there does not seem to be a place to post these.  Do you know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BoardGameGeek.com&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be the place to post, but does anyone else have problems posting to this site?  To post there, the site itself says, you need to confirm by email, but I never receive the confirmation email even though my email address is correct as I am able to use it when I purchase something from the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Donald X himself&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have recently read that he is working on an expansion coming out in 2015 (yeah!), but I can´t seem to find any contact information either to him or his publisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Othe suggestions?&#xA;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5623" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T20:51:00.657" Title="Where can you post new Dominion card rule suggestions?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1700" CreationDate="2015-01-14T20:36:35.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer from Pat Ludwig is correct, this is just additional clarifications of the rules regarding the tracking of actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donald X writes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you TR or KC a duration card, leave out the TR or KC with the duration card. [It's tracking that you doubled or tripled that card]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you TR or KC a TR-or-KC used on a single duration card (and up to 2 non-duration cards), don't leave it out. [It's not tracking anything.] [You still leave out the one that hit the duration card though.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you TR or KC a TR-or-KC used on two or three duration cards, leave it out. [It's tracking the extra doubling/tripling done by the latter TR or KC, which also stays out.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I am going to go back on my ruling from yesterday for what happens if you KC a KC a KC used on 3 duration cards. The 3rd KC stays out obv. The 2nd one stays out; it's indicating that the 3rd one hits 3 things. The first KC is doing nothing and so goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead you KC a KC, and that one KC's 1) a KC for 3 duration cards, 2) a duration card, 3) a non-duration, then you would keep the first KC out, as now it's indicating that the 2nd KC got to hit 3 cards, necessary for that 4th duration card to be tripled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly complicated, but the whole thread leading up to this can be found here at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/456393/throne-room-duration-cards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek.com&lt;/a&gt;.  TR = Throne Room, KC = King´s Court.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5623" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T20:36:35.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22525" CreationDate="2015-01-14T20:51:00.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have read the post that you link to, then you are familiar with forum.dominionstrategy.com. They have a subforum just for this sort of thing &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?board=11.0&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  If you post your cards there, people will likely comment on them, give advice, and even try them out and playtest them if they are interesting enough. It's a friendly community with lots of people who are experts at Dominion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donald X posts on that forum as well, and you can &quot;contact&quot; him there by asking questions in posts, but he has said that he does not read fan cards, largely because he wants to make sure that any ideas he uses are his own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T20:51:00.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-14T21:36:28.640" Score="3" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Play All&quot; rule is on the table. Someone plays the new rule, &quot;Get on with it&quot; which states that &quot;At any time before your final play, you may discard your entire hand and draw a new hand of 3 cards.  This is a free action but if you take it, your turn ends immediately.&quot;  So, if this player decides to discard his remaining hand &amp;amp; draw 3 cards, does he still have to play them, or does his turn end immediately with new cards still in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11530" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T23:56:12.920" Title="Fluxx: Does this person play all cards or does his turn end with new cards in hand?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14015" CreationDate="2015-01-14T21:39:43.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can see this being an issue in a competitive tournament, but you are right, Star Fluxx is about creating a narrative and having fun with friends.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I don't think that Star Fluxx could even be played in a competitive setting, In most games that I've played the computer has indeed greatly increased the frequency of playing cards but the turnover rate for the computer has always been high.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When someone has the opportunity to take a card, the computer is always the first to go. In the games that I've played, this has never been less frequent than once every five turns.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to get a high turnover of the computer and the unseen force is to simply play with more people. I usually play Star Fluxx with 5 or 6 people, cards get played frequently and someone's always changing the rules, the same action or suprise card will re-appear over and over again. In these larger games the winner is basically random, but it honestly feels to me like the game was designed to be played this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11503" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T21:39:43.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22528" CreationDate="2015-01-14T21:54:31.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most logical way of doing it would be to end the turn with 3 cards in hand. This is because &quot;Get on with it&quot; always requires you to have at least one more play, and it still causes your turn to end. There is no reason for a Play All to effect the card any differently than any other Play X rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T21:54:31.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22528" CreationDate="2015-01-14T22:13:48.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play All is like having a rule that says &quot;Play N where N is more cards than you could possibly play&quot;, so if you use &quot;Get On With It&quot; it's just like interrupting any other Play N rule. Or to look at it another way, when &quot;Get On With It&quot; ends your turn, that's it and your turn is over so you can't play any more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T22:13:48.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22524" CreationDate="2015-01-14T22:16:29.943" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the Microsoft TrueSkill rating system, with some changes to how the value is displayed (mainly to stop the displayed value becoming negative, or going down after you win a game). It was &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=10869.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reverse engineered&lt;/a&gt; back in April 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T22:16:29.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22528" CreationDate="2015-01-14T23:47:03.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is the players turn ends and they will have 3 cards in hand. To simplify it don't think of it as play all but play X where X is the current number of cards in your hand. Here is a quick example that might help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player starts his turn with 3 cards in his hand, play 3 cards, draw 1 card and get it on with rules are in effect. The player will start by drawing 1 card bringing him 4 cards in hand and having 3 plays to make. After looking at the cards he decides that if he played any of the cards in his hand it would be bad for him and good for his opponents so he decides to use get on with it. The first part of the card has him discard his hand and draw a new hand. Next it says that this is a free action but if you take it your turn ends immediately. That would be a new rule which takes precedence over the existing play 3 cards rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can repeat that setup and replace the play 3 cards with a play all cards and after the player has discarded and redrawn 3 cards they would still have the same number of plays left as in the play 3 setup however the get on with it card will still trump and end the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note this is how it works in the iPad version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-01-14T23:56:12.920" LastActivityDate="2015-01-14T23:56:12.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7321" CreationDate="2015-01-15T02:03:44.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not seen anyone mention this one. But MTG Studio (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtgstudio.com/&lt;/a&gt;) has what you are looking for. I use it to manage my collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11534" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T02:03:44.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22538" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T08:43:35.347" Score="8" ViewCount="995" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XKWhX.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;solitaire&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently learned a new solitaire from a friend, but we have no idea what the name of it is. Can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You use two decks of cards, and start by placing 14 rows of cards. The middle 4 rows are laid horizontal and are locked. The rest of the cards are placed vertical and are open. All of the cards are placed face-up. The rest of the cards are left in a pile with the face down and drawn one-after-one as you need them. (The bottom card is also open, but not sure if that's a rule my friend started with or not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is very similar to Klondike as you're supposed to build from kings down to ace with different color for each card (red on black or black on red). Then you gather all the aces and build up on them. The difficult part of this solitaire is that the locked cards in the middle have to be placed in one of the ace piles before you can use it up in the main game again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my explanation isn't too difficult to understand. If anyone knows the name, please tell me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apologize for the bad picture, but hope you get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-08-24T21:01:35.180" Title="What is the name of this solitaire variant?" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22539" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22540" CreationDate="2015-01-15T09:03:39.280" Score="8" ViewCount="606" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have infinite mana, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=391927&quot;&gt;Soulfire Grand Master&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386509&quot;&gt;Crater's Claws&lt;/a&gt;. I play a multiplayer game with 5 other players. I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=391927&quot;&gt;Soulfire Grand Master&lt;/a&gt; last ability with infinite damage crater claws on first opponent. He doesn't wait until the spell resolve, and leave the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the spell resolve, so I can take it back to my hand and kill 4 other opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11538" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:08:53.793" Title="Spell targets player in multiplayer game, and that player leaves. Does it still resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22539" CreationDate="2015-01-15T09:20:07.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the spell will be countered by the game rules.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all targets of a targeted spell or ability become illegal before resolution, the spell/ability will be countered and nothing that would happen on resolution will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. However, if any of its targets are illegal, the part of the spell or ability’s effect for which it is an illegal target can’t perform any actions on that target, make another object or player perform any actions on that target, or make that target perform any actions. If the spell or ability creates a continuous effect that affects game rules (see rule 613.10), that effect doesn’t apply to illegal targets. The effect may still determine information about illegal targets, though, and other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T09:20:07.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22539" CreationDate="2015-01-15T13:55:37.043" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;##Edit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, it does not resolve. This is a valid technique, although it may be considered unsporting in casual play because it is essentially kingmaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/downloads/MagicCompRules_20140926.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;104.3a A player can concede the game at any time. A player who concedes leaves the game immediately. He or she loses the game.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Old, wrong answer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for the same reason that players cannot sacrifice a creature in response to your targeting it if they have no spell or ability that can make them do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent, on the other hand, casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; on himself and reduces his life total to 0 &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; your spell resolves, it will be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6832" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T20:08:53.793" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T20:08:53.793" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6016" CreationDate="2015-01-15T14:00:43.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the stack doesn't have to be empty but you need to have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case you &lt;strong&gt;can cast another spell after the Snapcaster mage but your opponent can play a spell or ability first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how it goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 casts Fireball.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 receives priority. He casts Snapcaster mage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 receives priority. He can't counter Snapcaster so he takes no action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snapcaster mage resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 receives priority again since it's their turn. They can play spells or abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 receives priority after Player 2 passes, and can cast counterspell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6832" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T14:00:43.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22543" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22546" CreationDate="2015-01-15T14:41:03.350" Score="1" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new at modern board-games, basically, and I got Eldritch Horror as a present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the test resolution system where you through n number of dice and the number of 5 or 6 determines if a test is passed or failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is their any other board game that use exactly this system (by exactly, I mean throughing &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; dice, then counting the number of &lt;strong&gt;5 or 6&lt;/strong&gt;)? Does Arkham horror use the same system for instance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11541" LastEditorUserId="11541" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T14:46:36.593" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T15:23:35.970" Title="Eldritch Horror test resolutions in other board games" Tags="|arkham-horror|dice|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-01-16T23:50:53.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22544" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22548" CreationDate="2015-01-15T15:17:18.530" Score="8" ViewCount="1101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anthony begins his turn by drawing a card. He then immediately turns his creatures sideways and declares &amp;quot;I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alpine%20Grizzly&quot;&gt;Alpine Grizzly&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony's opponent, Nathan, has 6 life. Nathan has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crippling%20Chill&quot;&gt;Crippling Chill&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kill%20Shot&quot;&gt;Kill Shot&lt;/a&gt; in hand, and the mana available to cast either but not both. He has not yet acknowledged Anthony's shortcut to move to combat, nor has he denied it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the following is true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan must immediately deny Anthony's shortcut.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan may deny the shortcut after pausing to think about what he wants to do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am specifically interested in two cases: Regular REL and Competitive REL. If the answer depends on which one is in effect, please cover both. I am not interested in casual play, but you can certainly cover that if you want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:31:28.517" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:31:28.517" Title="When must one communicate denial of a shortcut?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|mtg-regular-rel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22543" CreationDate="2015-01-15T15:23:35.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello and welcome to the world of modern board games. The mechanism you are talking about is a common mechanism for a number of board games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15987/arkham-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/a&gt; uses this exact mechanism. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other games use a similar mechanism: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/93260/summoner-wars-master-set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Summoner Wars&lt;/a&gt; - uses a 6 sided die for combat but here you typically hit on a 3+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/72125/eclipse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eclipse&lt;/a&gt; - uses a 6 sided die for combat but here you initially only hit on a 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite positive there are dozens more that could be listed, but those were the first games that came to mind that I was familiar with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T15:23:35.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22544" CreationDate="2015-01-15T15:32:18.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the Magic Tournament Rules about timing when interrupting a shorcut. All it says is &quot;A player may interrupt a tournament shortcut by explaining how he or she is deviating from it or at which point in the middle he or she wishes to take an action.&quot; So there is no reason you wouldn't be able to have a moment to think about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you do anything that acknowledges the attack as being valid like casting your Kill Shot or otherwise using or passing priority it is too late to deny them their shortcut. Anytime prior to this point though should be fine, as long as you don't fall into Slow Play territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, if I were Nathan what I would do in this situation is when Anthony declares attackers say &quot;Wait, I might have something before declare attackers&quot; and then once I have taken a moment to decide what to do either say &quot;Ok, go ahead&quot; or &quot;Before declare attackers I...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-01-15T15:42:29.997" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T15:42:29.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22544" CreationDate="2015-01-15T16:13:02.613" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding shortcuts, the relevant rules for this scenario are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.1a The rules for taking shortcuts are largely unformalized. As long as each player in the game understands the intent of each other player, any shortcut system they use is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.2a At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a non- repetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns. It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.2b Each other player, in turn order starting after the player who suggested the shortcut, may either accept the proposed sequence, or shorten it by naming a place where he or she will make a game choice that’s different than what’s been proposed. (The player doesn’t need to specify at this time what the new choice will be.) This place becomes the new ending point of the proposed sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.2c Once the last player has either accepted or shortened the shortcut proposal, the shortcut is taken. The game advances to the last proposed ending point, with all game choices contained in the shortcut proposal having been taken. If the shortcut was shortened from the original proposal, the player who now has priority must make a different game choice than what was originally proposed for that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding this specific question, when a player is proposing to do an action that can only be taken in a certain step that would occur after the player's last known step, it is a well-known shortcut that the player is going to change phases until the first phase where they can take that action. In this case, after drawing for Draw Phase, Anthony is proposing a shortcut to get to Combat phase, ending Draw phase and ending First Main phase without doing anything in either. This is a perfectly valid shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once Nathan proposes this shortcut, Nathan is then allowed to propose a shortened shortcut, where he will make a game choice that's different than what Anthony proposed. In this particular case, the most likely proposal from Nathan would be to go until the 'Beginning of Combat Step'. This is a normal decision in the course of a game, and thus Nathan can take his time to decide on this proposal, within reason of course. This is the same at both Regular REL and Competitive REL. If Nathan takes an action before proposing a shortened shortcut, such as casting a spell or activating an ability, it is assumed that he is accepting the shortcut that Anthony proposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Once Nathan proposes a shortened shortcut, Anthony is not then allowed to instead do something in his First Main phase; he has to go with the shortened shortcut. In this case, that would be advancing to end of his First Main phase and passing priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7128" LastEditorUserId="7128" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T17:08:03.120" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:08:03.120" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-15T17:37:33.510" Score="3" ViewCount="6496" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find the right sleeve size to get for Android Netrunner.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Fantasy Flight was nice enough to put a color coded sleeve and number of packs needed for that box on the back of both the core set and the expansions.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;However it shows Blue sleeves for the Core set and Sliver for the expansions. &lt;br&gt;I am trying to figure out which sleeves are the proper fit.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;If you can provide a link to where I can buy them that would be great as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11543" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T12:17:32.260" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T12:17:32.260" Title="Proper Sleeve size for Android Netrunner" Tags="|android-netrunner|card-sleeves|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22549" CreationDate="2015-01-15T17:54:18.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Android Netrunner cards are the same size as Magic: the Gathering cards, so you can use any sleeves that are Magic sized for them. This includes &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.fantasyflightgames.com/showproducts.cfm?FullCat=206&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultrapro.com/product_list.php?cPath=70_150&quot;&gt;Ultra-Pro&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miniaturemarket.com/collectible-card-games/supplies/card-sleeves/kmc-sleeves.html&quot;&gt;KMC&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arcanetinmen.dk/products/dragon-shield-sleeves-standardsize-100-ct&quot;&gt;Dragon Shield&lt;/a&gt;. The color or design on the sleeves doesn't matter as long as the deck has all of the same color/design (the Corporation and Runner decks can have different colors/designs if you choose, but that isn't required).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-15T17:54:18.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22580" CreationDate="2015-01-15T19:39:54.017" Score="6" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the title - can you announce that you are a character that is not in play currently in Bruno Faidutti's Mascarade ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11544" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T17:16:20.030" Title="Can you announce that you are a character not in play in Mascarade" Tags="|mascarade|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21325" CreationDate="2015-01-15T20:11:24.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a variant of circular chess. There is a 1993 board game under the name of Noble Celts that comes close to your description. (There are 8 concentric circles instead of 6.) Here's the board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tdJ7P.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Game Board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7349" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:50:17.187" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:50:17.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22557" CreationDate="2015-01-15T23:54:36.047" Score="2" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;At GoKGS.com, I (13 kyu) was playing against player ranked as &quot;13k?&quot;, and I lost and dropped to 14 kyu. But then we found out (thanks to another user watching the match) that the user is actually much stronger, around 6-8k:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S9880.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I actually lost an even game to 6-8k, which is perfectly fine for my rank so my shouldn't drop!!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Few question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How is it possible that my rank dropped, when the user is classified with question mark (13k?).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned, this isn't fair, as losing an even game to such strong player is perfectly fine at my rank. Will my rank get re-computed and will the penalization effect of the game on my rank go away once the player goes back up to 6-8k? That would be fair. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:53:56.913" Title="Playing against underestimated player damages my rank at KGS" Tags="|go|kgs|rank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-16T00:09:48.873" Score="-1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really don't understand what's going on in the GoKGS ranking system and why did my rank dropped in Decemeber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at my &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/gameArchives.jsp?user=tomast&amp;amp;year=2014&amp;amp;month=12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;December game list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I was ranked as &quot;13k?&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I played an even game with Simpleman (11k), and lost. My ranked dropped to &quot;14k?&quot;! Why? Losing even game to 11k is perfectly fine for 13k, it only means you are 12k or weaker, but definitely no reason to drop to &quot;14k?&quot;!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I played even game with KptMadden1 (13k), and I felt from 14k to 15k!! (which you can see &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/gameArchives.jsp?user=tomast&amp;amp;year=2015&amp;amp;month=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Again, losing even game to 13k should mean that I am 14k or less, so no reason to drop to 15k.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T03:02:05.280" Title="Trying to understand KGS ranking system: why did my rank drop?" Tags="|go|kgs|rank|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5525" CreationDate="2015-01-16T00:23:50.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, corner enclosure is a great thing. If you can manage to do so in the early game, you have a big advantage. You gain a lot of free moves on the outside, since the opponent must protect his corner. You will then build huge walls with a big impact and you can greatly develop to both sides and you have also impact to the center. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But note that this only works when there is any space to develop, so it is advantageous in the early game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T00:23:50.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22554" CreationDate="2015-01-16T02:24:13.430" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really speak to the details here - I don't even play go - but I looked at their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/help/rmath.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;description of their rating system&lt;/a&gt;, and it seems that you've misunderstood the rating system somewhat. In particular, statements like &amp;quot;losing even game to 11k is perfectly fine for 13k, it only means you are 12k or weaker&amp;quot; aren't completely true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, keep in mind that the ? in your rank indicates that the system has little confidence in your rank. As they say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...the question mark means that the rank estimate (if any) is little more than a wild guess. It may be very, very far from the user's actual rank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that as you play more games and the system learns more, its estimate of your rank could change dramatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, a loss to a stronger player hurts your rank &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; than a loss to an equal-ranked or weaker player, but it still hurts. There's even a reference to this in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/help/faq/index.html#ranks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend is 1d and I am 10k. Can we play a rated game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. As long as you use a handicap of six stones or less. (The large rank difference affects how much your ratings change, but the game is still rated. - - &lt;strong&gt;If the stronger player wins, there is almost no change.&lt;/strong&gt; If the weaker player wins, the effect can be huge.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Almost no change&amp;quot; - but not no change at all. And that's with a much larger gap than the games you mention; with a gap of only one or two ranks, the change could be larger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, a general note: it does make sense to design rating systems like this. If you, say, play a hundred games against a player who's slightly better than you, sure, you should expect to lose more than you win, but you shouldn't expect to lose them all. They do have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/help/rmath.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a math page&lt;/a&gt; that goes into more details about this. In particular, they say that their system assumes that if A plays B in an even game, then A's probability of winning is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 / ( 1 + e^(k(rankB - rankA)) )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, even if your ranks are different, they expect both players to have a chance of winning. So if you're losing &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; time to people with a rank 1 higher than yours, that means that your rank has been overestimated, and should be reduced. And since the ranking system takes into account every single game, a single loss needs to decrease your rank slightly, which might cause your rank to drop - especially if the system wasn't confident about your rank to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T03:02:05.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22553" CreationDate="2015-01-16T02:31:26.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first question is largely answered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/22556/409&quot;&gt;my answer to your other post&lt;/a&gt;. You lost a game to another player, whose rank was maybe the same as yours, maybe not, and that has to decrease your rating a little bit - in this case it was enough to cause you to drop (maybe you were close to the boundary between ranks, who knows). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's all based on current rank, not past rank. The system can't pretend they're 6k just because they used to be. (Although it could be a sign they're trying to cheat, and they might want to boot the user - but in terms of the rating system, there's not really any alternative to using the current rank.) Using the current rank seems pretty fair; imagine a different case, where you won against someone rated 6k who used to be 13k. You'd be pretty mad if it pretended they were 13k, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to your second question is yes, your rank will be updated if the system realizes that the other player was stronger. This is mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com/help/faq/index.html#ranks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in the FAQ on their site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When are the rank graphs updated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ranks are recalculated frequently&lt;/strong&gt;, but the graphs change only once a day at 0:00 GMT. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Why does my rank graph change when I haven't even played any games in awhile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The rank of one or more of your past opponents changed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bottom line, don't worry about it. Presumably they'll turn out to be good and your rating loss from this game will decrease. And if they forgot everything in that 3-month break and really aren't as good anymore, well, you lost to someone close to your skill level, and the rating system gave you what you deserved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T02:36:37.857" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22562" CreationDate="2015-01-16T03:30:04.613" Score="2" ViewCount="644" Body="&lt;p&gt;Item Finder is a card from the original Pokemon TCG Base Set. Dowsing Machine is a card that has the same effect, but was printed as an Ace Spec in the much more recent Plasma Storm set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to a build a deck for the Unlimited format that includes 4 Item Finder and also includes 1 Dowsing Machine as my Ace Spec card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read that the original Japanese names for the cards Item Finder and Dowsing Machine are the same. Does this mean that they are supposed to be treated as the same card for deck building purposes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have found some discussions online that assumed one way or the other, but I haven't found any source that seemed authoritative. I know that in the Pokemon TCG a card is supposed to be played using the text of its most recent printing, but I don't know if these two cards count as the same to apply that ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3075" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T07:16:39.363" Title="Are Item Finder and Dowsing Machine the same card?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22551" CreationDate="2015-01-16T08:47:18.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only claim to be one of the characters in the game. The main activity in the game is to make a claim to be a character that is in the game and see if anyone else challenges you by claiming to be the same character. Claiming to be a character that is not in the game goes against the spirit of the game as no one should have to penalize their selves just to expose a player that is trying to play this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do play the game, it is recommended that you put out all the character tokens of the characters you will be playing with. That way each player can look to see which characters are in the game. Hopefully this clear up any confusion about who is in the game or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T08:47:18.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22561" CreationDate="2015-01-16T11:10:19.850" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not able to solve this tsumego problem 899 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://tsumego.tasuki.org/books/cho-1-elementary.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;elementary set&lt;/a&gt;. Black is to move and perhaps to kill white. But it seems to me that regardless of what black does, white will always make one eye at the edge and the second eye below is clear, and these eyes cannot be cut from each other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f7Vwo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T11:19:52.700" Title="Tsumego problem 899" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22560" CreationDate="2015-01-16T11:19:52.700" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Oh sorry now I see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vjM66.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty tricky sequence :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T11:19:52.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22558" CreationDate="2015-01-16T14:43:21.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since there is no official source saying they are the same card, even though they have the same effect, you should be fine playing with 4 and 1 in Unlimited. There's no reason to assume the rules are different than any other two cards, if this were a special case it would be outlined somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11455" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T14:43:21.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21205" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:01:30.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A complete list of what is in each packet can be found in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6q--CzixaSKeExoMnJLV2Q5bUE/view?usp=drivesdk&amp;amp;resourcekey=0-gADIIYfnMRrLQxfG0ogk8Q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;PDF&lt;/a&gt; I have made publicly available.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wasn't able to find any one distinct source, however by reconstructing the starting powers with the help of this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5943/which-faction-power-will-result-in-the-greatest-bonus-troops-and-or-fewest-troop&quot;&gt;Which Faction Power will result in the greatest bonus troops and/or fewest troop losses?&lt;/a&gt; and reading a series of blogposts giving a breakdown of a campaign on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/blogger/1567/stephen-rochelle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardgameGeek&lt;/a&gt; I was able to come up with a comprehensive list to help me and my friends play a new campaign with our existing map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastEditorUserId="3301" LastEditDate="2021-10-19T23:54:00.693" LastActivityDate="2021-10-19T23:54:00.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22565" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:04:15.023" Score="7" ViewCount="14304" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player manifests a creature card with the morph ability, can that player pay the morph cost to turn it face up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if Anthony casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Formless%20Nurturing&quot;&gt;Formless Nurturing&lt;/a&gt; to manifest &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abomination%20of%20Gudul&quot;&gt;Abomination of Gudul&lt;/a&gt;, can he pay the morph cost of {2}{B}{G}{U} instead of the creature cost of {3}{B}{G}{U} to turn it face up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:58:57.107" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:58:57.107" Title="What happens if you manifest a creature card with morph?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22564" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:04:15.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If a creature card with Morph is manifested, the permanent it becomes may be flipped for either its creature cost or its morph cost. This is covered by the following rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/fate-reforged-release-notes-2015-01-14&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;introduced in Fate Reforged&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.31c&lt;/strong&gt; If a card with morph is manifested, its controller may use the procedure described in rule 702.36d to turn a face-down permanent with morph face up rather than the procedure described above to turn a manifested permanent face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific example, Anthony may choose to pay either {2}{B}{G}{U} or {3}{B}{G}{U} to flip Abomination of Gudul at any time he has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.36d&lt;/strong&gt; Any time you have priority, you may turn a face-down permanent you control face up. This is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). To do this, show all players what the permanent’s morph cost would be if it were face up, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T17:26:05.353" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:26:05.353" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21085" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:19:12.753" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Citadels is more likely to drag due to the experience level of players vs. number of players involved.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too have had some lighting fast games with 2-4 players, but ultimately the speed of those games came down to myself and the other players being highly experienced with the game, knowing each role available, its power, and being able to make those choices (as well off call the roles as the King) in a short manner due to our experience. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one time I played an 8 player game as well as my experience with 6-7 player games is that there will be 1-3 new/rusty players who do not remember the roles and are unable to make truly informed decisions and thus deliberate for awhile. They tend to forget which role they choose and do not immediately respond when their role is called out during play. Likewise if they happen to become king then they take a long time to call of the roles even with them in front of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is simply to try to play more often and with experienced players, your time issue should self-correct over time. Additionally I've found that just about any competitive strategy game like this can drag if people tune out when its not their turn vs. paying attention and planning/thinking ahead as the turns progress. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T15:19:12.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22568" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:50:41.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pontoon is a card game similar to Blackjack with several small variations. The goal is to beat the banker without exceeding 21 total face value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T18:06:41.330" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T18:06:41.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22569" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-16T15:50:41.450" Score="0" Body="Pontoon is a card game similar to Blackjack with several small variations." OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-16T18:06:45.153" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T18:06:45.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2191" CreationDate="2015-01-16T17:42:20.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going in to decline and conquering are exclusive events. The turn the ghouls go in to decline, they cannot attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have spirit as posed in the question, and the active race goes in to decline, then neither can attack as going in to decline is an exclusive event for the turn and after the decline phase is completed, the move goes to the next person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was also clarified by the developers with a small world clarification .pdf (&lt;a href=&quot;http://templecon.org/13/files/boardgames/SmallWorld_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://templecon.org/13/files/boardgames/SmallWorld_FAQ.pdf&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps, and have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11555" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:42:20.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22564" CreationDate="2015-01-16T17:44:03.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can pay either the morph cost or the creature's normal mana cost to flip it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manifest is covered in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-fate-reforged-2014-12-29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Fate Reforged&lt;/a&gt;. The relevant snippet for this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you happen to manifest a card with morph, you can turn it face up either by paying its mana cost (if it's a creature card) or by paying its morph cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, when you have a question about a mechanic from a new set, a really good place to find answers about it is the mechanics article Wizards posts for the set. The title is always in the same form as this article (&quot;Mechanics of {set name}&quot;) so they're really easy to search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the full technical details, the comprehensive rules are the place to go (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/22565/409&quot;&gt;see Rainbolt's answer&lt;/a&gt;), but if you want a practical, easy to understand answer, these articles are really useful. As a bonus, they're often published a bit before the comprehensive rules updates, so you can satisfy your curiosity sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T17:44:03.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22508" CreationDate="2015-01-16T19:02:22.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have three 5s in my hand the cut card is a 5 then I know I can lead my 10 without fear of a 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the cut card is a 2 I can more safely put the count to 29 without fear of an opponent 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all small edges and they are edges that both players get.  The information in that one card combined with the knowledge of one's own hand and crib cards is a lot greater than without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T19:02:22.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22551" CreationDate="2015-01-16T21:42:25.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;ErroneousPlanet has the correct answer, and all of their points are right on. I did find a copy of the rulebook online and scanned it. Below is what I saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/MASCARADE_RULES_EN.pdf&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt; doesn't explicitly say that you must declare you are a character that is in your instance of the game, it does say at the top of page 7 (emphasis mine) &quot;it is possible to use the power of &lt;em&gt;any character in the game&lt;/em&gt; without being that character, even without knowing who you are.&quot; I would take this phrasing to mean the instance of the game you are presently playing, not the board game as a whole, so you cannot claim to be a character that is not currently in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-01-16T21:42:25.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22575" CreationDate="2015-01-16T22:22:34.653" Score="2" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;In various Magic the Gathering posts, I've seen references to &quot;strong&quot; and weak&quot; decks, and specifically to decks that are &quot;too strong&quot; or &quot;too weak&quot; to be &quot;playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a deck that is &quot;too strong&quot; one where a player can win after a trivial number of turns based on luck, without much skill? And deck that is &quot;too weak&quot; one with which a game will drag on endlessly because no one can get the upper hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if people reasonably disagree as to what constitutes &quot;strong&quot; or &quot;weak,&quot; deck is it possible to measure &quot;stronger&quot; or &quot;weaker&quot; (e.g., a strong deck will allow a resolution in fewer turns and a weak deck will allow a resolution in more turns)? That is, can these terms be defined &lt;em&gt;comparatively&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T18:29:24.053" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T18:39:14.067" Title="Is there a &quot;consensus&quot; definition of what constitutes a &quot;strong&quot; or &quot;weak&quot; deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="17" ClosedDate="2015-01-26T19:50:57.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22574" CreationDate="2015-01-16T22:46:00.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The terms &quot;Too Strong&quot; and &quot;Too Weak&quot; are very subjective. However there are generalized categories that most people will agree upon. So for instance a deck that most would consider &quot;Too Strong&quot; would be a deck that can win on turn one with a &quot;god hand&quot;. While having a &gt;50% to have that said &quot;god hand&quot;. Decks that most would agree are &quot;Too Weak&quot; could be described in many ways as there are several things that can hurt a deck's strength. For instance if the deck has no control over the opponent in any way(including damage reduction) and has no way of winning itself until say turn 10+, then this deck would be considered &quot;Too Weak&quot; by most players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this really depends on the player environment in which you are playing. If you are playing with at a major level tournament then your deck will need to be able to compete with the decks expected to be there and anything else someone throws your way. However if you are playing at a local card shop with a group of players that all just started the game and are still learning how the game works you can have a much &quot;weaker&quot; deck and still do just fine and have plenty of fun while you are at it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say most people measure a deck's strength based on a couple values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How fast can it win?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How does it fair vs other top tier decks in that format?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How much control do you have over your opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the desired responses to these questions vary based on the player asking them and what their goal is. Some people play for the sole purpose of winning major tournaments others play for fun because they enjoy the game and have no desire to paly in tournaments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a side note most of my experience is based on the Vintage/Legacy formats. The Strong/Weak deck types will vary greatly based on format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11543" LastEditorUserId="11543" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T18:39:14.067" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T18:39:14.067" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22574" CreationDate="2015-01-17T00:40:52.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roughly, to most people, a &quot;strong&quot; deck is one that'll tend to win against other decks in its format, and a &quot;weak&quot; deck is one that'll tend to lose. It's about winning and losing, though, not as much &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; you win. Note that &quot;in its format&quot; is a pretty big deal - strong Standard decks are completely different from strong Vintage decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why isn't speed of winning a good way to look at this? Well, not all decks with the same chance of winning do so at the same speed. Especially in Standard, it's normal for there to be aggro decks, midrange decks, and control decks that are all reasonably strong (they all have a good chance of winning a lot facing diverse opponents' decks). The aggro decks can win fast, the midrange decks take a bit of time, and the control decks always take a while. But people will quite reasonably say there's a strong deck in each of those categories, and if they try to compare, it won't be based on speed (then the aggro deck would always be &quot;best&quot;), it'll be based on which they think they can win the most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try to measure, I'm afraid playtesting is really the only way. You have to try playing the decks against all the other decks you think might be strong (or find others who have done so), and play plenty of matches. This is why there's so much debate about what decks are strongest: it's difficult and time-consuming to measure, so people try to shortcut by testing just a bit and then using their experience and knowledge to fill in the gaps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you look more closely, a few things make those statements a bit difficult to evaluate and measure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, people's subjective preferences do come into play, and on top of that, they'll tend to exaggerate, or at least be a bit cavalier with claims. People can also have objective preferences; they might be better at playing with some types of decks than others, and thus consider them stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, &quot;tend to win&quot; might not indicate as large of a probability as you'd think. For example, someone might reasonably say &quot;that deck is really strong&quot; when it's going to win 55% of its games against other decks. That may not really sound that strong, but on the other hand, if a decent number of people play the deck at a tournament, that makes it likely that a large fraction of the top N players of the tournament will be ones playing that deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if people are talking about &quot;strong&quot; and &quot;weak&quot; in the context of a tournament (or serious competitive play in general), the difference between the two might be relatively small, and hard to discern unless you're a fairly skilled player and have played plenty of games with the decks in question (or otherwise have data). If you want to measure strength of strong decks, this is pretty much the only way - look at a large number of games played by a large number of people, figure out who's playing the same decks (or similar enough to group together, at least), and see. (On the other hand, determining that a deck is very weak is pretty easy; you'll tend to notice that it loses all the time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps most importantly, &quot;in its format&quot; covers up a ton of complexity. You might think that just picking a format pins everything down, but in reality there's room for a lot of variation in the metagame: what kinds of decks everyone chooses to play. Generally, a given deck will be strong against some decks but weak against others. Depending on which of those decks are being played by more people, the deck could turn out to be strong or weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about casual games, the range of power is enormous, especially when people have limited budgets and are perhaps building decks to suit their preferences, not just to be competitive. A deck that's &quot;strong&quot; among you and those you play with might be seen completely differently by another group of people. Of course, in casual play, you're also likely to be a bit less concerned with &quot;playable&quot; and eking out small edges in win probability, and more concerned with just having fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T16:37:08.007" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T16:37:08.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23029" CreationDate="2015-01-17T03:00:47.503" Score="4" ViewCount="1368" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about this bonus card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kANN0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Istanbul: bonus card which allows your merchant to stay on a field&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing it at the beginning of your turn, you don’t have to move your merchant (and you may use the field’s action).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that you &quot;again&quot; have to use one of your assistants for this, but I’m not sure if this &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; applies (i.e., not following the normal movement rules), or if it only applies if you would have to use an assistant as if you had moved normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Situation after the first turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Situation A: Your merchant is on top of all his assistants (from that field), because you have picked the assistant up that was left there. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Situation B: No assistant was on the field, so you had to separate one assistant. Now your merchant is on top of 1+ assistants, and next to them is one assistant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second turn begins and you play the bonus card, so you stay on this field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In situation A: You have to separate one of your assistants and he will be left there when you move on in your third turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In situation B: Do you have to &lt;strong&gt;separate another assistant&lt;/strong&gt; (so leaving two assistants when moving on in the next turn), or do you &lt;strong&gt;pick up your previously separated assistant&lt;/strong&gt; (leaving no-one when moving on in the next turn)?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-01-17T03:05:51.350" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T06:35:15.813" Title="When you don’t have to move (bonus card), do you pick up your separated assistant or do you have to separate another one?" Tags="|istanbul|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22574" CreationDate="2015-01-17T03:15:43.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What constitutes a strong or weak deck depends on a few different things, the biggest are the format (Standard, Modern, etc.) and somewhat related to that the metagame. What ends up defining a strong deck is one that has a good chance of winning most of its matches, and a weak one is one that doesn't have a good chance of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing that effects how strong a deck is is the format you are playing. A deck that is strong in for example Legacy like Dredge isn't going to be as strong in Modern or Standard just because many if not all of the cards aren't legal, and similar style decks can be played but they are going to be weaker due to having less choices in cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another major factor in the strength of a deck is the metagame. The metagame is in the simplest terms what decks people are playing. The effects how strong a deck is because if you have deck that is pretty good in a vacuum but there is another deck that is being played heavily that beats it 70% of the time the deck that will be considered weaker and end up being played less. Later if a new deck starts being played that beats the 'strong' deck but the 'weak' deck you have beats this new deck your deck will suddenly be considered strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These definitions of what is &quot;strong&quot; or &quot;weak&quot; can change quickly, sometimes from week to week depending on the results of various tournaments. For example if one deck does really well in a Pro Tour one week the next week at a Grand Prix there might be a larger percentage of that deck being played, therefore a deck that normally isn't very strong but happens to be good against that deck could be the right call for playing in the GP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for decks that are &quot;too strong&quot; or &quot;too weak&quot;, what exactly are those? Generally if a deck (or decks designed specifically just to beat that deck) are being played by an overly large percentage of the metagame that deck might be considered &quot;too strong&quot;. If this happens one or more cards from the deck may end up getting banned. Examples of this are decks like Caw Blade from Zendikar-Scars Standard, and when UR Storm when Modern was first announced as a format. In both of these cases in order to make the metagame more varied Wizards ended up banning several cards from both decks. For Caw Blade these bannings pretty much killed the deck, and for UR Storm it is still a deck, and it works fairly well, but it is not a top deck like it used to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For decks that are &quot;too weak&quot; this mostly just means that they tend to lose to most of the decks that are being played. It is possible for a &quot;too weak&quot; deck  to win occasionally, but most of the time it is going to lose. A deck could be too weak for several reasons, usually because a few cards that it would need to be good aren't in the format at the time or the current top decks could just have a really good match up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now these definitions are based solely on tournament play, for more casual play what is &quot;strong&quot; and what is &quot;weak&quot; can vary widely. For example at one kitchen table Lightning Strike might be considered &quot;strong&quot; but at another where they play with Lightning Bolt it might be considered &quot;weak&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-17T03:15:43.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T04:15:07.513" Score="1" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Villages card game, we did not understand a few rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you pick up cards from your villages during your turn?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can multicolor/light units switch which village they are in if possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there is a village made of light units, what color is that village?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just how much is the game like gin rummy?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11558" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T20:53:12.233" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T20:53:12.233" Title="Villages card game rules" Tags="|villages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22551" CreationDate="2015-01-17T17:31:01.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I emailed Bruno Faidutti to ask for a canonical source for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My email&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The rulebook states that &quot;it is possible to use the power of any character in the game without being that character&quot;, does this include characters not currently in play?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;His response&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No, it doesn’t!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there we have it: &lt;strong&gt;only in play cards can be announced&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11544" LastEditorUserId="11544" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T17:16:20.030" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T17:16:20.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22581" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-17T18:06:54.750" Score="4" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was the second trick-taking game that I learned as a kid and it involved bidding and gambling (we played for tiddlywinks). Needs 4 players and you can play to lose. It was used as a  training-wheels simple introduction to the concepts of contract bridge (my dad was a bridge-player). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since childhood, I've never heard of anyone else playing the game - is it known as something else? I've found it in the odd card game book, but the rules were slightly different to what I recall. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11561" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-01T16:09:37.040" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T16:09:37.040" Title="What variations are there on Solo whist?" Tags="|solo-whist|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-01-07T14:56:55.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8237" CreationDate="2015-01-17T20:13:05.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy. Pick an 40K army from one of the formats and model your stats off of it, but use Warhammer Fantasy models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if your fantasy army has a lot of melee units, why not model them after tyranids like the hormagaunt? Then just use the tyranid rules and costs, 40k rules, and your fantasy models. Fluffing it up is up to you! &quot;Oh, no he didn't mutate to get his stat bonus, he reached into his bag of tricks!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11563" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T00:49:02.063" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T00:49:02.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22794" CreationDate="2015-01-18T01:26:04.423" Score="2" ViewCount="1179" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page ten of the rulebook, there is the rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is more than one Enemy that attacks by Strength on a space and they have the same encounter number, they fight as one during battle, adding their Strength together with just one attack roll to make a single, combined stack score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this rule still apply if a player encounters two or more enemies that attack by Craft? What if one enemy attacks by Strength, but the other attacks by Craft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6025" LastEditorUserId="6025" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T07:06:18.457" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T22:12:15.237" Title="Do multiple encounters combine for craft?" Tags="|talisman|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22625" CreationDate="2015-01-18T12:59:02.550" Score="0" ViewCount="1141" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the subject states, I was wondering if the Mage Wars Core Set comes with enough Fire type cards to allow the Warlock Mage to build a spellbook with absolutely no Demon cards. Without seeing the cards, I will assume that most, if not all of the other Dark magic cards are OK, but I would ultimately prefer a pure Fire Magic spellbook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as to preemptively answer the almost inevitable 'Why?', I will simply say that, as an orthodox Christian, my conscience doesn't allow me to play a game with such cards. I would prefer not to debate/explain this further, as I believe such a discussion is well beyond the scope of this site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11553" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T17:21:01.553" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T03:15:11.470" Title="Can the Mage Wars Warlock be played without any Demon cards?" Tags="|deck-building|mage-wars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22588" CreationDate="2015-01-18T17:04:04.593" Score="4" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Alchemists' special ability is to turn gold into victory points at any point in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So on the last turn, when passing, could I take a bonus card with coins built up on it, and immediately trade them in for victory points? I assume you gain the stacked-up coins as soon as you gain the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But my friend thinks it is illegal to make the trade to victory points, as my game is technically over. Who is right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11572" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T23:30:43.587" Title="Terra Mystica - Taking a bonus card with coins on the final turn as an Alchemist" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22624" CreationDate="2015-01-18T18:18:12.823" Score="4" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know ther are some rules for creating custom Investigators, so new character is balanced and does not ruin the game. It's utilized in Strange Eons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules for custom special abilities for Investigators?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am creating custom Investigator, who is psychologist like Carolyn Fern, but I don't like to copy her ability. Instead, I thought about ability to restore Sanity in exchange for Clue tokens in 1-to-1 basis during upkeep. Player would be able to use as much Clue tokens as he/she likes and restore Sanity to himself/herself or players in the same area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there are any rules to check if given special is not over/underpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11566" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T06:51:54.447" Title="Custom special abilities rules" Tags="|arkham-horror|balance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22586" CreationDate="2015-01-18T20:51:16.323" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pass at the end of the last round, you do not take a bonus card. From the rules about passing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...immediately return your Bonus card and take one of the three available ones. ... &lt;em&gt;(Exception: Do not take any Bonus cards in the last round of the game - round 6.)&lt;/em&gt; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you don't even &lt;em&gt;get&lt;/em&gt; a bonus card in the last round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any coins you do have at the end of the game, however you got them, can be converted into VP. Everyone can do this at 3 coins per VP, and the Alchemists can do it at 2 coins per VP. But you can't get those coins in the way you mention in the question anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-18T23:30:43.587" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T23:30:43.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22586" CreationDate="2015-01-18T23:02:22.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are both incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not take a new Bonus tile when you  pass during round 6, so you cannot get any additional coins this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...immediately return your Bonus card and take one of the three available ones. ... &lt;em&gt;(Exception: Do not take any Bonus cards in the last round of the game - round 6.) ...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it sounds like your friend is under the impression that Alchemists cannot use their ability at the end of the game, and this is incorrect. From the end-game scoring rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, get Victory points for left-over resources: get 1 Victory&#xA;  point per 3 Coins. (All other resources may be converted to Coins&#xA;  for this purpose, see “Conversions” on page 13.)&#xA;  (&lt;strong&gt;The Alchemists get 1 Victory point per 2 Coins.&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you do not have to convert all your coins to VP using your ability before you pass. It is done automatically when counting up final scores. This means that &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you did take a new bonus tile when you pass during round 6 (though you don't), then you would get the points for the coins that are on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that coins that have built-up on a bonus tile due to not being chosen are separate from coins that a bonus tile provides as income. You get the coins that are built-up on it when you take the bonus tile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there were Coins on&#xA;  the newly taken Bonus card, put them on your Faction&#xA;  board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you only get the coins that it gives for income at the start of the following round, during the income phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-01-18T23:02:22.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4831" CreationDate="2015-01-19T12:03:20.040" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The above answer is a good one and you have to be aware to make that decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More commonly, you might hold KJx in a suit where declarer finesses through your hand to win with the queen, then plays the ace. Your cards are &quot;equals&quot; but you are known (or at least likely) to hold the king so play it, leaving declarer unaware of who holds the jack, which might be significant to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the sort of play that should be almost automatic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T12:03:20.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21365" CreationDate="2015-01-19T12:15:37.160" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much of the time your specific defence won't be against the strong pass itself, which is relatively easy to defend. In fact the pass itself can be a weakness of the system as your side can come in before the opponents have described their hand properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pass is actually &quot;super&quot; strong you can defend it like a strong club (above answer).&#xA;If the pass is medium, so they open on either properly strong or weak hands, you should treat pass as 0-no-trumps so you can come in like you would over 1NT but a level lower. And of course more frequently as it is less risky. (In a typical strong pass system, they like to open more often than not, so pass might be 13-15 with opening bids 8-12, and usually one bid showing 0-7 known as the &quot;fert&quot; bid, often 1Spade, and 1NT or other bids showing strong hands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have to now handle though are their opening bids. These are no doubt the strengths of the system when they open the limited 8-12 range as they open a lot and show their hands reasonably descriptively. You need to also be constructive whilst being able to compete. Be prepared to reach par on these. Go plus when the hand is yours. Compete to the right level. This is your hardest area so probably prepare it well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer above suggests how to handle the fert bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty certain Strong pass systems were used in the 1991 Bermuda Bowl, held in Yokahama, and won by Iceland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T12:15:37.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22594" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22595" CreationDate="2015-01-19T15:55:00.530" Score="7" ViewCount="2191" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a face-down card (such as a morph or manifested card), and an effect puts it on top of my library, do I need to reveal the card (as I would if it was destroyed or exiled)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack my opponent with a manifest creature, and they cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whisk%20Away&quot;&gt;Whisk Away&lt;/a&gt; to put it on top of my library, do they get to know what the card put on top of my library is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T02:38:41.320" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T15:26:51.867" Title="Do I need to reveal a face-down card if it is put on top of my library?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22594" CreationDate="2015-01-19T16:06:30.390" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you must reveal all face-down cards as they move zones or when you leave the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;707.9. If a face-down permanent moves from the battlefield to any other zone, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it. If a face-down spell moves from the stack to any zone other than the battlefield, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it. If a player leaves the game, all face-down permanents and spells owned by that player must be revealed to all players. At the end of each game, all face-down permanents and spells must be revealed to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other players must be able to check that you were able to cast those cards face-down. Making an exception for manifested cards (which are not required to have the morph ability or any other property) would needlessly complicate the rule, and if you have both manifested and morphed creatures on the battlefield, it might be obscured which was which, again making room for error or even cheating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2019-12-05T15:26:51.867" LastActivityDate="2019-12-05T15:26:51.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22598" CreationDate="2015-01-19T18:37:59.133" Score="4" ViewCount="1230" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say someone draws a monster face up when they kick open the door.  They are able to defeat the monster, but another play throws down a card to buff the monster.  The person who kicked open the door counters.  Now someone else buffs the monster.  This repeats until everyone runs out of cards.  What is the general rule for this situation?  Can it keep going or are we doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11581" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-02-28T21:18:18.213" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T21:18:18.213" Title="Character and monster buffing" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22597" CreationDate="2015-01-19T18:40:25.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;it can keep on going until nobody can/wants to throw any more cards. As seen in the rules(example, p. 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt; Example of Combat, With Numbers and Everything&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Aric is a 4th-Level Warrior with the Chainsaw of Bloody Dismemberment&#xA;  (which gives him a +3 to his combat strength). He kicks open the door&#xA;  and finds the Net Troll, a Level 10 monster. Aric’s at a 7, the Net&#xA;  Troll is at a 10, so Aric is losing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aric&lt;/em&gt;: I was hoping to save this&#xA;  card . . . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;He plays the Magic Missile, giving him +5 for this fight. Now his combat strength is 12, beating the Net Troll’s 10.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aric&lt;/em&gt;: Ha! Net Troll going down!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suzan&lt;/em&gt;: Not so fast. Now he’s Enraged. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suzan plays Enraged, adding 5 to the Net Troll’s combat strength. Now Aric&#xA;  is losing, 15 to 12.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aric&lt;/em&gt;: Curses! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suzan&lt;/em&gt;: Want some help? &lt;em&gt;(Suzan is playing a Level 2 Elf with the Boots of Butt-Kicking, so her combat&#xA;  strength is 4. Combined with Aric’s 12, they would have 16, enough to&#xA;  defeat the Net Troll’s 15.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aric&lt;/em&gt;: And give you a level? Not a chance! I’m Berserking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aric uses his Warrior power and discards three cards:&#xA;  Thief and a Wandering Monster from his hand, and Yuppie Water (usable&#xA;  only to help an Elf) from his carried items. Each one gives him +1 to&#xA;  his combat strength.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Suzan&lt;/em&gt;: Not the Yuppie Water! Noooo . . . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Aric&lt;/em&gt;: That’s +3 to me, and now we’re tied, 15 to 15. Because I’m a Warrior,&#xA;  I win ties . . . so I’m killing the Net Troll unless someone else&#xA;  plans to mess with me. Anyone? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No one says anything, so Aric goes up a&#xA;  level and claims the Net Troll’s treasures – three from the Net Troll&#xA;  card, and one extra because it was Enraged. And the game goes on . . .&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you see, you can cast any number of spells during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="7377" LastEditDate="2015-01-19T18:51:09.153" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T18:51:09.153" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-19T19:16:16.233" Score="1" ViewCount="8440" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you counter an indestructible enchantment spell? For example, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kruphix%2C%20God%20of%20Horizons&quot;&gt;Kruphix, God of Horizons&lt;/a&gt;. Can you counter the spell with a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dissipate&quot;&gt;Dissipate&lt;/a&gt; while it's on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11582" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:44:10.870" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:44:10.870" Title="Can you counter a spell with indestructible?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22599" CreationDate="2015-01-19T19:17:58.327" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entirety of the rules for indestructible is that a creature with indestructible cannot be destroyed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12a Indestructible is a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To destroy a permanent is not related to countering a spell in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get even more technical, the spell does not have indestructible until after it resolves and becomes a permanent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(None of the listed exceptions apply here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-19T19:17:58.327" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22604" CreationDate="2015-01-20T07:31:33.097" Score="5" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that if a morph card is on the battlefield at the end of the game, I have to reveal it to my opponent, but what if my opponent responds to me casting the morph with a counterspell.  If I concede with the morph still on the stack, do I have to reveal it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11590" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:06:25.453" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:06:25.453" Title="If I concede with a morph card on the stack, do I have to reveal the card to my opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22603" CreationDate="2015-01-20T07:46:42.513" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you must reveal the card to all players.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;707.9. If a face-down permanent moves from the battlefield to any other zone, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it. If a face-down spell moves from the stack to any zone other than the battlefield, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it. &lt;strong&gt;If a player leaves the game, all face-down permanents and spells owned by that player must be revealed to all players.&lt;/strong&gt; At the end of each game, all face-down permanents and spells must be revealed to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other players must be able to check that you were allowed to play that card face-down. Otherwise, you could cheat by playing a non-morph card as a morph creature and never be forced to reveal that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2018-07-30T08:18:40.763" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T08:18:40.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21078" CreationDate="2015-01-20T07:52:14.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So 'dual wielding' isn't a term that's used in Warhammer Fantasy's rules. But models frequently have more than one weapon.  As a general rule however, this is more for the ability to choose the right tool for the right job, as opposed to using multiple weapons at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two times when a character will use two different weapons at once:&#xA;1) Brace of pistols: Some characters have the option of taking multiple pistols.  They're stat block will explain exactly how they work, since 'repeater pistols' work slightly differently than 'repeater handbows' which are again slightly different from someone who is just covered in flintlock pistols.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Models with extra hand weapons can use them in combat for an extra attack.  There are a whole bunch of times where this doesn't work, but basically as long as the model is on foot, and not using any special weapons, or magical weapons, then an extra hand weapon will grant 1 extra attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a model has multiple different kinds of weapons, the general rule is that you choose which one he is using at the start of the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11590" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T07:52:14.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14385" CreationDate="2015-01-20T11:30:37.937" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree. If the pool was a room then there would be a room card for it. White becomes too powerful if she can move there without rolling. Plus Mel always chooses White and I'm tired of her beating me!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11591" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T11:30:37.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21178" CreationDate="2015-01-20T15:22:44.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be useful if you also stated the form of scoring and the meaning of 3C, but I will assume 3C is weakish pre-emptive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, with that hand I would definitely re-open the bidding and I would probably choose double, correcting any diamond bid by partner to hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the North hand, if partner re-opens with double I will of course bid 3H, not pass or 3S. I know we have an 8 card fit at least in hearts. Ok, at match-points pass might work if we get a lucky 200 which beats what we make in hearts, and I know if partner has 5 hearts and 1 or 2 clubs then 3H is against the Law of Total Tricks, but I still wouldn't risk it. At IMPs there is no contest as we double into game if 3C makes. Of course I have no idea the opponents have a 9-card diamond fit. (As the cards lie I can see no way for the defence to take more than 4 tricks against a club contract: one trump, ace-king of hearts and ace of spades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know what kind of responses you play in that auction but 3H immediately by North would be competitive however with that hand it is probably too weak for that. Maybe with a 4th heart&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North definitely should not double. &#xA;One might use 3D by North also as some kind of artificial invite-raise, although you don't have it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you with that South hand reooened with double and the opponents found their way to a making 5 diamonds they did well but have no idea what the layout must have been or how they got there. It looks like 5 diamonds is probably on for them if hearts are 3-1 or 4-0. Draw trumps which split 2-2, ruff out a club to set them up and enjoy.. They'll potentially make 12 tricks in diamonds if you don't cash your two aces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T15:22:44.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21425" CreationDate="2015-01-20T15:50:18.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although it may not directly advise doing so in the rules. I would strongly recommend that the assassin's character card &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; is revealed at the start of the end game. We have played a number of games and found that without doing this the good players (particularly those new to the game) might take an accusation from another evil player as being the Assassin's choice, which can ruin that game if merlin reveals themself before the assassin disagrees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would always suggest, particularly as it has no bearing on the rest of the game, that the Assassin is revealed. After the final mission, whoever has read out the instructions during the rest of the game (or whoever is generally &quot;running&quot; the game as it were) has a similar instructional statement that the Assassin reveals their identity and discussion and naming of Merlin begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastEditorUserId="5161" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T16:21:27.693" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T16:21:27.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22610" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T17:11:45.293" Score="3" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it worth fighting for my opponents' fields when there are still 60+ tiles in the game and I have no fields, or is it too soon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually lose games because of fields and not knowing when to lay my meeples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any suggestions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11594" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T16:14:56.077" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T16:14:56.077" Title="When is it worth competing to farm fields?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22613" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:15:34.227" Score="2" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently started playing a Soul Sisters / Martyr Life deck, and sometimes have problems remembering triggered abilities every time they're triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield, you may gain 1 life. (1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield, you gain 1 life. (2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you gain life, you may put a +1/+1 counter on Ajani's Pridemate. (3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How serious of a problem is it if I forget any of these, possibly repeatedly (depending on environment)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my reading of the Infraction Procedure Guide, &lt;em&gt;Game Play Error — Missed Trigger&lt;/em&gt;, as trigger (2) is advantageous for me, it's not a warning (or even caution) if I forget them, even if repeatedly. My opponent has the choice of allowing the triggered ability to be put on (the bottom of) the stack when I remember them at some later point in time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;… the opponent chooses whether the triggered ability is added to the stack. If it is, it’s inserted at the appropriate place on the stack if possible or on the bottom of the stack. (IPG)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the wording of triggers (1) and (3), I assume they are considered to have a default action (not taking the life gain/counter), and forgetting about them just means I don't get their effect (Comprehensive Rules 603.5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the triggered ability specifies a default action associated with a choice made by the controller (usually &amp;quot;If you don't ...&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;... unless&amp;quot;), resolve it choosing the default option. (IPG)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding of the rules and how they're handled in a tournament correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10252" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:48:59.113" Title="How serious is forgetting my life gain triggered abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22612" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:31:53.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding of the missed triggers is correct. Since the required triggered ability (number 2) is only beneficial to you, there is no penalty for missing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other triggers do not work exactly how you think because they are covered by a slightly different part of the rule than you quoted. The first part of rule 603.5 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some triggered abilities' effects are optional (&lt;strong&gt;they contain &quot;may,&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; as in &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, you may draw a card&quot;). These abilities go on the stack when they trigger, regardless of whether their controller intends to exercise the ability's option or not. &lt;strong&gt;The choice is made when the ability resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those abilities always go on the stack and they do not have a default choice, so you must make the choice when they resolve. If you do not, it is a missed trigger like any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-20T20:48:59.113" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T20:48:59.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22610" CreationDate="2015-01-20T19:36:56.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That really depends on what expansions you play and on the individual game. Sometimes you can tell very early that a field is going to be very important, when you have lots of tiny cities from the very beginning on that field. In those cases, fighting for that field can become an early priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, when you're playing with the Princess and Dragon expansion, there is a good chance that you can kick a competitor out of a field (or he does it to you), so you may not have to go all too aggressive on the fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, there is no general answer. Try to play consciously, play a lot, and eventually you'll get a good feeling for when to fight for a field and when not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-01-20T19:36:56.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22615" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-20T22:16:29.310" Score="1" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the feeding stage I end up with one sheep in a pen for four and three cows, two in a pen for two and one pet.  After breeding I no longer have room for the cows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After breeding there is no longer room for the additional cow unless I can shuffle the animals around. Is there a way to manually move them about on the iPad version of the game even if there is no swap space available on the farm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11601" LastEditorUserId="11601" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T12:32:04.377" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T15:50:31.470" Title="Move Animals Between Pens During Harvest" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22616" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T00:26:35.043" Score="4" ViewCount="21439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a manifested creature or even a morph creature count as a token? I was told yes, but I was also told that a card can never be considered a token! So I'm asking you guys!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11602" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T23:48:24.553" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T23:48:24.553" Title="Do Manifested or Morphed creatures count as tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22616" CreationDate="2015-01-21T00:34:58.163" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the morph and manifest abilities that allow you to have a face-down permanent apply only to cards (morph works on creature cards in your hand, and manifest on cards from your library). The other two ways to have face-down permanents (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusionary%20Mask&quot;&gt;Illusionary Mask&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ixidron&quot;&gt;Ixidron&lt;/a&gt;) apply either to creature cards or nontoken creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some effect (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fated%20Infatuation&quot;&gt;Fated Infatuation&lt;/a&gt;) makes a token copy of a face-down creature, it will simply be a 2/2 creature with no text, name, type, nor mana cost. It cannot be turned &amp;quot;face up&amp;quot; because being &amp;quot;face down&amp;quot; is NOT a copiable characteristic. Therefore the token is not actually &amp;quot;face down&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T00:34:58.163" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18125" CreationDate="2015-01-21T01:17:31.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As said in comments you are doing it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this strategy, you lose the ability to access any quest reward of level 8 or above, unless you are keeping two weaponned dwarves.  This is a significant disavantage, since you can't get the cheap dwelling, a cow, sow, breed, or place pastures/tunnels/rooms/fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with any food engine, it makes the game easier, but I find the flexibility of dropping the single tiles too much to give up for my tastes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T01:17:31.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22631" CreationDate="2015-01-21T03:04:52.207" Score="4" ViewCount="4345" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules are unclear, and the FAQ on the Plaid Hat website does not address this issue. Does anyone know if any wounds on the mice carry over between chapters when playing Mice and Mystics as a campaign?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11553" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T10:52:29.157" Title="Do wounds carry over between chapters (Mice and Mystics)?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22622" CreationDate="2015-01-21T03:43:16.017" Score="3" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Japanese mahjong generally the longest game most people play is a hanchan (半荘), where the &lt;em&gt;han&lt;/em&gt; part (半) implies that it's &quot;half&quot; of something, presumably a full four-wind game with 16 hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But is there a name for a four-wind game in Japanese? I can't find a reference for it anywhere if it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T04:47:09.473" Title="What is a four-wind game called in Japanese mahjong?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22621" CreationDate="2015-01-21T04:47:09.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~jwb/cgi-bin/wwwjdic.cgi?1C&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;WWWJDIC&lt;/a&gt;, the word is イーチャン, or 一荘 in kanji - read as iichan (although it's unusualy in that it appears to be written in katakana, which I'm guessing could mean that it's a fairly new loanword from Chinese?). There's a JMdictDB entry on it &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edrdg.org/jmdictdb/cgi-bin/entr.py?svc=jmdict&amp;amp;sid=&amp;amp;disp=ed&amp;amp;e=1909377&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T04:47:09.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22615" CreationDate="2015-01-21T06:41:17.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually you can drag the animals to the storage bar at the bottom of the screen to assist in moving them around.  Just like whenever you get new ones and have to drag them out, I have usually just dragged them onto that bar, near the location of their little respective icon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11603" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T06:41:17.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22587" CreationDate="2015-01-21T06:51:54.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would think that would really be up to your own experience that you want to have when playing the game.  Also, doing some play testing would be beneficial in getting a good understanding of whether or not it is over/underpowered.  I know it is a long game, but I would think after one game you would know more of what needs to be tweaked to determine the power of that ability.  And you could always offset that ability by providing lower stats, possessions, and etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11603" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T06:51:54.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22585" CreationDate="2015-01-21T07:00:54.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the starting Core Set I would have to say that it would be a very tough if not an impossible feat to be able to play the Warlock without the Demon cards, as there is only one Flame type creature, but it just happens to also be a Demon.  So you would have to spend quite a bit of your deck points on the doubled points from creatures not being a dark or fire type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be doable, as you may be able to counter balance with some of the powerful Flame attack spells that can really do some damage, especially when combined with an equipment called Elemental Wand, to allow you to bind and recast the attack spells each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11603" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T07:00:54.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22610" CreationDate="2015-01-21T09:48:15.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're losing because your opponent is scoring fields and you aren't, then yes, you will have to fight for those fields.  The tricky thing with fields is that you have to commit to them before you know what they will be worth, so try to estimate in your own mind what a field will be worth at the end of the game and factor it in your calculations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Watch out for the &quot;cloister with a road&quot; tile coming out early, this will cause there to be one large field at the end and a big fight for the farming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If fighting for the farming doesn't suit your playing style then try to play in a way that prevents large fields forming -- use road junctions to break them up and try to stop people creating loops with roads.  Then build your cities away from the big fields.  Additionally, opponents who commit heavily to farming early on will be short of meeples during the game and you should be able to bully them during the game by playing tiles to slow or prevent them from completing their cities/roads/cloisters, or joining your meeples into their cities generally obstructing their completion.  With your spare meeples you should be able complete lots of features and rack up the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6502" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T09:48:15.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22628" CreationDate="2015-01-21T11:13:20.977" Score="3" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a possible problem in this joseki, see josekipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/#path:qdttocrdreqcpdpbrcrbsdobnbncmcndmbpcodsb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.josekipedia.com/#path:qdttocrdreqcpdpbrcrbsdobnbncmcndmbpcodsb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/R8S2k.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They comment this white's move as &quot;Makes life&quot;. But it seems to me that white is dead actually - what about this sequence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$c Black kills white?&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ ...3412.-&#xA;$$ .XXOO5OO-&#xA;$$ .XOXOOX.-&#xA;$$ ..OXXX.X-&#xA;$$ ......X.-&#xA;$$ ........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that T18 move seems like a big mistake. White perhaps should have played R19 instead and go to a ko fight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there a mistake on josekipedia or did I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2018-04-13T21:27:58.293" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T21:27:58.293" Title="Mistake on Josekipedia after probe &amp; invasion on keima shimari?" Tags="|go|joseki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22627" CreationDate="2015-01-21T11:39:35.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;White Q19 is a mistake.  The correct move is R18.  Then Black can't connect at Q19 because the stones would still be in atari.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$c White survives!&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ ..63512.-&#xA;$$ .XXOO4OO-&#xA;$$ .XOXOOX.-&#xA;$$ ..OXXX.X-&#xA;$$ ......X.-&#xA;$$ ........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the capture, &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt; are &lt;a href=&quot;https://senseis.xmp.net/?Miai&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;miai&lt;/a&gt; to make White a second eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$c Resistance is futile!&#xA;$$ ---------&#xA;$$ ..Oab.O.-&#xA;$$ .XXOOOOO-&#xA;$$ .XOXOOX.-&#xA;$$ ..OXXX.X-&#xA;$$ ......X.-&#xA;$$ ........-&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-12T11:45:33.383" LastActivityDate="2018-04-12T11:45:33.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T11:55:20.640" Score="2" ViewCount="1758" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm in the UK.&#xA;My sister taught me this as &quot;American Patience&quot; in the 1960's &#xA;(it is not a straight Solitaire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Object: To clear the tableaux and move all the cards to the 4 foundation piles, Ace through King, as normal.&#xA;1 deck (no jokers), all laid out to tableau face up, in piles of 3, each fanned to show underlying cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initial layout: 16 piles of 3, with last four laid as 2 piles of two.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only top card of each pile is movable to other piles with two or one in pile.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Once the last card in a pile is moved to the foundation, the pile position is lost for further use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Key rule: Top cards are moved to other piles that match the same value&lt;/strong&gt; (3 on 3, J on J etc, suit/colour irrelevant).&#xA;Aces on top of any pile can move to foundation as normal, enabling standard moves to Foundation thereafter.&#xA;During play, groups of three of same value in a pile tend to build up, stopping the fourth of that value from moving until the foundation builds to that value.  Common strategy is to aim for two piles with two of same value to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Very rarely get through to foundation completion first go, so get a total of three &quot;tries&quot;&#xA; - ie when no moves left, the foundation stays, remaining tableau gathered and reshuffled, and laid out again in threes as before, until only 4,5 or 6 cards remain to set into tableau;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 remaining=&gt; 3 piles of two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 remaining=&gt; 2 piles of two, 1 of one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 remaining=&gt; 2 piles of two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Love to know the most common name and get an electronic version on my android tablet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11606" LastActivityDate="2021-11-29T02:46:20.697" Title="Solitaire variant: Piles of 3, top moved by value match. Name=?" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22620" CreationDate="2015-01-21T15:12:39.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they do not.  The campaign rules specifically state which items carry over between chapters, and wounds are not listed.  While they also specifically list a few things that are not carried over, if they had intended for wounds to be carried over they clearly would've called this out.  However, they do say that the guidelines are &amp;quot;suggestions&amp;quot;, so you can feel free to carry over wounds if you think it would improve your experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following guidelines are suggested for playing mice and mystics as&#xA;a campaign:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mice keep their story achievements and abilities earned from previous chapters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mice can keep only 1 search card that they had at the end of the previous chapters. This 1 card is in addition to their starting&#xA;equipment cards. Mice will always begin a new chapter with their&#xA;starting equipment cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mice do not keep any party items, individual achievements, or cheese from previous chapters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T15:12:39.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22620" CreationDate="2015-01-21T15:15:21.483" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: &lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slightly less short answer:&#xA;This is indeed not literally stated in the rules. However, our group has decided to start each new chapter without wounds, for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mechanically, each chapter is a seperate game. The rulebook states some things that &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; carried over, as opposed to a normal series of games, and wounds are not one of those. Some things are specified as not carried over, but wounds are never mentioned, and so it can be assumed they follow normal game rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storywise, it would make little sense to have healing happen semi-regularly during a fight and not at all during periods of rest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the rulebook &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; state that the campaign rules on p. 19 are guidelines and suggestions, meaning there are no &quot;real&quot; rules about campaign play. If you feel it is appropriate to keep your wounds during campaign play, you are absolutely free to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7362" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T15:15:21.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22641" CreationDate="2015-01-21T18:04:59.293" Score="5" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://cornerofmagic.blogspot.com/2013/05/a-hole-in-mtg-rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this year old question&lt;/a&gt; on a blog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Evocation&quot;&gt;Wild Evocation&lt;/a&gt;. At the beginning of his upkeep, he triggers and begins resolving Wild Evocation's triggered ability, revealing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disaster%20Radius&quot;&gt;Disaster Radius&lt;/a&gt;. Disaster Radius has a mandatory additional cost of revealing a creature card from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Anthony required to pay the mandatory additional cost of revealing a creature card from his hand if he is able?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T15:00:18.987" Title="Are you required to pay all mandatory additional costs for Wild Evocation?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22632" CreationDate="2015-01-21T18:09:56.590" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Anthony can pay the cost, and it isn't a mana cost, and it doesn't involve cards with a specific quality in a hidden zone, it must be paid if able. If it is a mana cost and there is enough mana in his mana pool to pay it it must be paid, otherwise he has the option to activate mana abilities to pay for. If the cost involves cards with a specific quality in a hidden zone Anthony may choose to pay for it if he wants to, but is not required to. If the cards mandatory additional costs can't be paid, or he chooses not to pay an additional mana cost the card is uncast and stays in his hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.8c.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect instructs a player to cast a spell “if able,” and that spell has a mandatory additional cost that includes actions involving cards with a stated quality in a hidden zone, the player isn’t required to cast that spell, even if those cards are present in that zone.     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Gatherer Rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If casting the revealed card involves paying a mandatory additional cost (such as the one Fling has), the player casting that card must pay that cost if able. If he or she can't, the card remains uncast in his or her hand. If the mandatory additional cost includes a mana payment, the situation is more complex. If the player has enough mana in his or her mana pool to pay the cost, that player must do so. If the player can't possibly pay the cost, the card remains uncast in his or her hand. However, if the player has the means to produce enough mana to pay the cost, then he or she has a choice: The player may cast the card, produce mana, and pay the cost. Or the player may choose to activate no mana abilities, thus making the card impossible to cast because the additional mana can't be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T18:29:59.983" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T18:29:59.983" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22632" CreationDate="2015-01-21T18:49:24.943" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must reveal a creature card from your hand to cast Disaster Radius in this fashion (as detailed below). If you have no creature cards in your hand, you are unable to pay the cost to cast Disaster Radius, so you are unable to cast Disaster Radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do have a creature card in your hand, you may chose not to reveal it&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.8c]&lt;/sup&gt;. If you don't, you are unable to pay the cost to cast Disaster Radius, so you are unable to cast Disaster Radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To paraphrase 601.2e,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost to cast a spell&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= mana cost or alternative cost&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional costs&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost increases&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost reductions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Without paying its mana cost&amp;quot; is an alternative cost&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.9]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;As an additional cost to cast Disaster Radius, reveal a creature card from your hand&amp;quot; is an additional cost&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.8]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disaster%20Radius&quot;&gt;Disaster Radius&lt;/a&gt; using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Evocation&quot;&gt;Wild Evocation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= alternative cost (free)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional costs (Reveal a creature card from your hand)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost increases (none)&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost reductions (none)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= Reveal a creature card from your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.8c. If an effect instructs a player to cast a spell “if able,” and that spell has a mandatory additional cost that includes actions involving cards with a stated quality in a hidden zone, the player isn’t required to cast that spell, even if those cards are present in that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T19:15:30.713" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T19:15:30.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22636" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-21T19:24:32.007" Score="2" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would a creature with undying (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Young Wolf&lt;/a&gt;) get 2 +1/+1 counters instead of 1 when it dies if I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt; out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11609" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2015-01-21T23:13:43.500" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T23:13:43.500" Title="Does Hardened Scales interact with the undying mechanic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22636" CreationDate="2015-01-21T19:28:46.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Young Wolf would get 2 +1/+1 counters. The reminder text for Undying says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When this creature dies, if it had no +1/+1 counters on it, &lt;strong&gt;return it to the battlefield under its owner's control with a +1/+1 counter on it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on the Hardened Scales Gatherer page says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Placed on a creature you control” includes that creature entering the battlefield with +1/+1 counters on it. &lt;strong&gt;If a creature would enter the battlefield with a number of +1/+1 counters on it while you control Hardened Scales, it enters with that many counters plus one&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Young Wolf returns to the battlefield from the graveyard, it enters the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter, so Hardened Scales makes it enter with 2 instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-01-21T19:28:46.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22643" CreationDate="2015-01-21T20:35:05.703" Score="2" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the runner, can you, when you encounter a server that has &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/06048&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crisium Grid&lt;/a&gt;, trash it to make that run successful or do you have to make another run after you trash it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11543" LastEditorUserId="3228" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T03:22:03.383" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T03:22:03.383" Title="Can you trash Crisium Grid to make the run Successful?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22640" CreationDate="2015-01-21T21:44:37.517" Score="5" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found a card called fruitcake elemental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q3hbQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fruitcake Elemental Artwork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card does that does not appear to be on gatherer, but is on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=!Fruitcake%20Elemental&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;magiccardinfo.com&lt;/a&gt;.  It is a 7/7 green indestructable creature costing: 1{G}{G}.&#xA;At the end of your turn it does 7 damage to you, and for 3: you can change control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently this is a promotional card?  What is it's status?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T15:00:40.683" Title="What is the status of Fruitcake elemental?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22639" CreationDate="2015-01-21T21:44:37.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In typing up the question, I found the answer.   This was a special promotional card given to finishers of the great design search and some of WotC business partners.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151105200729/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/arcana/1240&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of such cards that exist:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/hho/en.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/hho/en.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They appear to be quite expensive, even if they are not playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-27T15:00:40.683" LastActivityDate="2022-06-27T15:00:40.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22632" CreationDate="2015-01-22T00:56:08.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To summarize the other answers and comments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under current rules, &lt;strong&gt;you are not required to reveal a creature card from your hand&lt;/strong&gt;, even if you actually have one.  However, if you do not, you will not be able to cast Disaster Radius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is 117.8c, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.8c&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect instructs a player to cast a spell “if able,” and that spell has a mandatory additional cost that includes actions involving cards with a stated quality in a hidden zone, the player isn’t required to cast that spell, even if those cards are present in that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Reveal a creature card from your hand&amp;quot; is an action (&amp;quot;reveal&amp;quot;) involving cards with a stated quality (&amp;quot;creature&amp;quot;) in a hidden zone (&amp;quot;your hand&amp;quot;).  Thus, rule 117.8c says that you are not required to cast Disaster Radius, even if directed to do so &amp;quot;if able&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule was introduced in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/magic-2014-update-bulletin-2013-07-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic 2014 rules update&lt;/a&gt;, specifically to deal with cases like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This new rule was added to cover cases where you are instructed to cast a spell with a mandatory additional cost that includes actions involving cards with a stated quality in a hidden zone if able. That's a mouthful. For example, say you're forced to cast Disaster Radius if able. The game doesn't really know if you have a creature card in your hand or not. We don't want you to have to call a judge to verify that you're being honest about the contents of your hand. So, in the spirit of the &amp;quot;fail to find&amp;quot; rule, now you don't have to pay that additional cost and cast the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, before this rule was added, you &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; have had to reveal a creature card from your hand if you had one; if you did not, you would not have had to reveal your hand to prove this — but you might have been required to ask a judge to inspect your hand and confirm it, if your opponent did not trust your word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ps.&lt;/em&gt; The &amp;quot;fail to find&amp;quot; rule referenced in the commentary is 701.15b, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.15b&lt;/strong&gt; If a player is searching a hidden zone for cards with a stated quality, such as a card with a certain card type or color, that player isn’t required to find some or all of those cards even if they’re present in that zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Jefromi notes in the comment, this rule already covered any situation where one was told to &amp;quot;search&amp;quot; for a card, which is most of them; what it did not cover were a few oddball situations, like this interaction of Wild Evocation with Disaster Radius, that essentially told you to search for a card, but without actually using the word &amp;quot;search&amp;quot;.  Rule 117.8c patched that hole.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T15:00:18.987" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T15:00:18.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22638" CreationDate="2015-01-22T10:17:14.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a little technical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The run &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; successful, but doesn't count as successful for card effects. This distinction usually doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point you access cards (and are therefore able to trash) is after the success or otherwise of the run is determined. If you need to make a successful run, e.g. on HQ to trash Off the Grid, then you need to make a second run once you have trashed it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you make a run with a card that has mandatory replacement effects on a successful run, e.g. Keyhole, you may access cards (and therefore trash Crisium Grid) since the Keyhole thinks you weren't successful so its replacement effects don't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a slightly clunky interaction with Security Testing. The original run does not get you credits because it doesn't count as a successful run for purposes of card effects. However if you make a second successful run after trashing the Crisium Grid, it is not your first successful run of the turn on that server, so you don't get credits there either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that's clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9812" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T10:17:14.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22645" CreationDate="2015-01-22T12:36:39.947" Score="3" ViewCount="820" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a tile-laying game, like Carcassonne or Qwirkle, what rule should we use for reaching the edge of the table?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &quot;off the table&quot; is illegal&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play is legal, and we'll faff around moving tiles around to make things fit &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously the best answer is to play on a bigger table in the first place, but sometimes these things happen.  How does your group handle it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T19:27:23.983" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T19:27:23.983" Title="How do you deal with the edge of the table in tile laying games like Carcassonne" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-01-22T18:50:11.783" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22644" CreationDate="2015-01-22T13:46:15.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone I play with leave it that if the piece can't sit there it can't be played there.  If you make the rules that you can't play 'off the table' then it becomes part of the strategy for playing.  Don't place meeple on things that can't be completed.  You can do what ever you want but this rule keeps things very simple and if everyone knows, then they can try to avoid getting themselves in a sticky situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T13:46:15.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22644" CreationDate="2015-01-22T14:58:10.270" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone I play with move the tiles to accommodate when possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T14:58:10.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22647" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-22T15:09:23.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card game for 2 to 4 players using a special 48-card deck. There are also double deck variations for 4 and 5 players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The standard pinochle deck contains two of each rank (in hierarchal order) Ace, Ten, King, Queen, Jack, and Nine in each suit.  When playing double deck the Nines are removed, so the total card count is 80 instead of 96. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Traditionally pinochle involves three basic phases: bidding, melding, and the taking of tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13495" LastEditorUserId="13495" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T22:24:54.790" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T22:24:54.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22648" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-22T15:09:23.017" Score="0" Body="Card game for 2 to 4 players using a special 48-card deck. There are also double deck variations for 4 and 5 players.  &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;The standard pinochle deck contains two of each rank (in hierarchal order) Ace, Ten, King, Queen, Jack, and Nine in each suit.  When playing double deck the Nines are removed, so the total card count is 80 instead of 96. &#xD;&#xA;&#xD;&#xA;Traditionally pinochle involves three basic phases: bidding, melding, and the taking of tricks." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="13495" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T21:43:21.353" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T21:43:21.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22644" CreationDate="2015-01-22T15:26:46.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Carcassonne, the edge of the table is the edge of the world.  I thought it was in the rule book, but I can't find it.  Maybe it was in a BGG FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of a general rule.  In Bananagrams, where each person has his own tableau that he is constantly rebuilding anyway, you just moved your tiles as you need to, but that counts as part of your turn -- that is, everybody doesn't stop and wait for you.  If somebody finishes while you're adjusting, too bad.  I can't recall seeing it come up in Qwirkle or Qwirkle Cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T15:26:46.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22650" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-22T18:25:14.770" Score="5" ViewCount="1159" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm in Tokyo, and a player outside of Tokyo has Acid Attack, they will do one damage to me on their turn (even without rolling a claw). But will that damage from Acid Attack allow me to leave Tokyo (forcing the other play into Tokyo)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acid Attack reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deal 1 extra damage each turn (even if you don't otherwise attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-01-22T18:57:59.473" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T10:09:53.507" Title="If damaged by another player's Acid Attack, can I cede Tokyo?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22650" CreationDate="2015-01-22T18:43:19.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, damage from cards are not considered attacks. For Acid Attack specifically, a search of the net shows the unanimous result that Acid Attack is not considered an attack. Since it's not an attack, you do not have the option of ceding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T18:43:19.790" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-22T22:41:47.387" Score="2" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 7 cards in my hand 4 red, 3 yellow (both uncured diseases). I take a red card from another player in my city, can I immediately cure disease (there is a research center in my city) to enable me to return below the 7 card limit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11619" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T23:33:00.260" Title="In Pandemic can I immediately cure disease to return to the 7 card limit?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-05-04T15:28:21.700" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22652" CreationDate="2015-01-22T22:54:15.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the action of discarding a card for having more than 7 cards is an atomic action that occurs before you can take your next turn action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T22:54:15.267" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22654" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22657" CreationDate="2015-01-22T23:07:42.890" Score="0" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a starting player, so I'll be getting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/arcana/fate-reforged-clash-pack-2015-01-06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fate Reforged Clash Pack&lt;/a&gt; coming next week to hopefully get playing into Standard. I get this clash pack can be made into a BG Dredge deck, which seems nice for starting a deck but I also noticed most of these cards are from Theros, which comes out of rotation soon, also the logo in these cards is different, also different from Khans of Tarkir or Fate Reforged logos. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is if where are this cards found in the standard rotation, and when would they go out. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10294" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T01:05:21.407" Title="Do pre constructed decks refresh standard rotation?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-01-23T23:04:05.407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22652" CreationDate="2015-01-22T23:33:00.260" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't do this, since you discard immediately if at any time you have more than 7 cards. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you ever have more than 7 cards in hand (after first resolving any Epidemic cards you may have drawn), discard cards or play Event cards until you have 7 cards in hand (...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drawing epidemics is the only exception; those don't stay in your hand long enough to cause you to discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also mentioned under &quot;commonly overlooked rules&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your hand limit applies immediately after getting a card from another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the reminder text in the corner of the board might lead you astray here, saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Take 4 actions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Draw 2 cards&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Resolve epidemics&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Discard to 7 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Draw Infection cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should read that as a reminder that you may need to discard then, not as an indication that you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; need to discard at other times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-01-22T23:33:00.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22654" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:47:04.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Theros (Theros, Born of the Gods, and Journey into Nyx) is the previous block; the current block is Khans of Tarkir block (Khans of Tarkir, Fate Reforged, and the as-yet-unreleased Dragons of Tarkir).  Both blocks are currently in Standard.  Under the current rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/metamorphosis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;which are changing next year&lt;/a&gt;), Standard always contains two blocks, and the older one leaves Standard when the next block is released.  Thus, unless they are reprinted in a newer expansion or Magic 2016, all Theros block cards will leave Standard when the next block starts in late September (or possible early October) of 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T00:47:04.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22654" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:47:54.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Clash Pack doesn't effect the legality of the cards at all. The shooting star expansion symbol is used for promotional cards, in this case cards with an alternate art from their original printing. So for example even though the Whip of Erebos is printed in this product with a new art and expansion symbol it will still rotate out of Standard when Theros does in about 6  months, along with any other cards from Theros block. The cards from Khans and Fate Reforged would then rotate out next year in the spring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing to remember about what determines the legality of cards in Standard is what set they were printed in. And supplemental products like Clash Packs, Duel Decks, or the Commander decks don't change what is legal at all. However you can use any printing of a card as long as it is legal, so you can use for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smite%20the%20Monstrous&quot;&gt;Smite the Monstrous&lt;/a&gt; was printed in Khans of Tarkir and Innistrad, and you can use either copy in your standard deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T01:05:21.407" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T01:05:21.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22659" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:49:44.420" Score="3" ViewCount="6816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fecundity&quot;&gt;Fecundity&lt;/a&gt;, which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature dies, that creature's controller may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I control 2 creatures and my opponent controls one creature, and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Planar%20Cleansing&quot;&gt;Planar Cleansing&lt;/a&gt; to wipe the board (including Fecundity), what happens?  Do I get to draw 2 cards?  Does my opponent get to draw 1 card?  Or do neither of us get to draw any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T10:18:15.153" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T10:18:15.153" Title="When a permanent has a &quot;When a creature dies&quot; ability, and gets destroyed at the same time as creatures, does that ability trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-01-23T19:43:57.373" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22658" CreationDate="2015-01-23T00:56:59.730" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both you and your opponent will draw cards, since the game looks back before an event to see if anything would trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6d&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. [...] However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, [...] will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to &amp;quot;look back in time&amp;quot; to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Two creatures are on the battlefield along with an artifact that has the ability &amp;quot;Whenever a creature dies, you gain 1 life.&amp;quot; Someone plays a spell that destroys all artifacts, creatures, and enchantments. The artifact's ability triggers twice, even though the artifact goes to its owner's graveyard at the same time as the creatures.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for this to work the destruction must happen at the same time, if you had used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Austere%20Command&quot;&gt;Austere Command&lt;/a&gt; instead the enchantment would be destroyed before the creatures thus it wouldn't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T00:56:59.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22660" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-23T01:08:09.593" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T01:08:09.593" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T01:08:09.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22661" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-23T01:08:09.593" Score="0" Body="A game of competitive archaeology where players travel around Europe, Northern Africa, and the Middle East to obtain knowledge" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T15:21:20.410" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T15:21:20.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22671" CreationDate="2015-01-23T03:02:44.677" Score="5" ViewCount="2084" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the current player pulled an epidemic card, we do the following steps: increase, infect, and intensify. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Infect: Draw the bottom card from the deck and put three cubes in that city.  Discard that card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case however the bottom card that was drawn was a mutation card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the purple disease is not eradicated, draw a card from the bottom of the deck. Place 1 purple disease cube (only) on this city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you proceed in this situation?  Does the effect of the epidemic make it so you place three purple cubes in the location drawn for the mutation location?  Does the phrase &quot;1 purple disease cube &lt;em&gt;(only)&lt;/em&gt;...&quot; supercede the effect of the epidemic?  Or is there some other interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T05:58:44.917" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:47:42.430" Title="How does infect step of epidemic interact with mutation?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2015-01-23T07:10:34.477" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Truly the best solution to poor opening hands is creating a balanced &quot;deck within a deck.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every card that searches for other cards or draws a card(s) can be considered a subtraction from the deck count if the mana cost is low enough. The card itself, mathematically, is replaced with the card(s) it draws/searches for, thus creating the external deck. Now, the internal deck should consist of the cards you need to play, such as Mana sources (basic lands, for example) or versatile, useful cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine, now, that you have a 60 card deck. Opening hand, you draw a fetch land. Play it and pass your turn. On your next turn, it will untap and allow you to search for a land of the appropriate color. That means the fetch has been replaced by a basic land, and a basic land has been removed from your deck, lowering your chances of drawing it. If you run 12 fetch lands (pretty high number, but this is the extreme example), 20% of your deck count has been shaved. This correlates to 1 fifth of your deck, leaving you with 48 cards left to amass. Now, 4 in 48 (1 in 12) chance of drawing any given card, as opposed to 4 in 60 (1 in 15) you would have had without the fetches, and that doesn't include all the other searchers you might fit in there. It is possible in Modern format to make a deck with 30 searchers/draw cards, 20 basic lands and 10 cards that produce various desired effects and be an efficient killer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T07:10:34.477" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22664" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-23T10:31:47.367" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T10:31:47.367" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T10:31:47.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22665" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-23T10:31:47.367" Score="0" Body="Game for 2 players using a board comprising an 8x8 grid.  Also known as Reversi.  Players place counters alternately, creating a line of counters makes all counters in the line yours.  The aim is to complete the game with more counters than your opponent." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T15:20:47.270" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T15:20:47.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16789" CreationDate="2015-01-23T11:32:25.007" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card you are missing is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1       (rose)         1&#xA;The Officers&#xA;The Factory&#xA;The Page Woven Wire Fence Co&#xA;The Business&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After studying the cards, I have come to the conclusion that the order of the titles on each card is irrelevant. I do believe that the purpose of the game is to match the numbers by drawing from a deck. It would be simple, of course. Discard 1 card, draw 1 card or take the top card of the discard pile. When you have 4 of a kind, you place them down face up and replenish your hand. When the deck runs out of cards, the discard pile will be shuffled and play will continue until no more new cards may be drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the miles on top of the cards represent contracts that were made with the Page Woven Wire Fence Co. in 1894 (actual contracts). The purpose of the game would logically be to collect the most mileage of fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The item you have is very likely highly valuable, and I doubt no more than 20 copies were produced (6 is my actual estimate).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game can be played without the 1 set if you intend to actually play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was apparently created to offer insight on the company to potential clients.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this has proven to be helpful to you. I also hope I am accurate, as much of what I said was speculation (albeit speculation based on several hours studying the cards and the company).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Value of the antique? Without the card I mentioned, probably 700 dollars. If you find a copy of that card, you could probably double that. Maybe push to triple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T11:32:25.007" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22667" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22745" CreationDate="2015-01-23T14:44:14.373" Score="10" ViewCount="3389" Body="&lt;p&gt;In every game of Thud! that I have played, the Dwarves win hands down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is somewhat off-putting as whoever is playing the Trolls seems to have to simply minimise the losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any opening gambits that allow the Trolls at least a fighting chance?  The instructions imply that there are, but don't give any hint as to what they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-01-23T15:17:56.743" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T12:05:01.003" Title="Thud! - Can the Trolls win?" Tags="|thud|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6375" CreationDate="2015-01-23T14:59:43.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The site buttonweavers.com is a relaunch, and data from the old site in the source files. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characters winning 84% to 75% of games&lt;br&gt;&#xA;nelde, Snuff, mgatten, gslamm, relsqui, Discordia, skapheles, spindisc, Tilili, kestrel, Cristofore, bobby 5150, icarus, trifecta, roujin27, Lascivia, Weylan, flesh99, Jordan, NeoVid, Heather, fendrin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Characters winning 25% to 12% of games&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Tess, Trogdor, Mr. Peach, stoooooooo, gman97216, Golo, Limax, Cthulhu&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cthulhu is the worst character in the game, based on almost 4000 games played with him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lascivia is the best official character.  The other characters like nelde and Snuff are from the Fanatics set, which isn't considered official.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;95% of the characters win 25% - 75% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11621" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T14:59:43.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16723" CreationDate="2015-01-23T17:32:06.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To counterpoint the other answers, which are all great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leader might be the sort of person that has a policy of voting down every 1st (and 2nd, and 3rd) proposal on a mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The leader might be using some random or algorithmic method to determine how to vote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes - I've seen these and more...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:32:06.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22662" CreationDate="2015-01-23T17:47:18.850" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;--putting this here as a potential template for bwarner's answer to reduce required effort on his part.  I encourage bwarner to simply copy/paste my answer or reuse the image file/transcription so I may accept his answer instead.--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the Pandemic: On The Brink rulebook, page 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setup&#xA;Put the 12 purple disease cubes near the other cubes as a supply.  Put the purple Discovered Cure Indicator and curemarker on the board.  Put the 2 Mutation cards &lt;strong&gt;in the Infection Discard Pile&lt;/strong&gt; (do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; shuffle them into the Infection Deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Qmhb.png&quot; alt=&quot;Pandemic_OTB Rulebook screengrab&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the mutation cards starting in the discard pile, it follows that they do not start on the bottom of the deck.  Since those cards in the discard pile only ever get placed back on the top of the deck, it is thus impossible for the bottom card of the deck to ever be a mutation card (barring some house-rule variant allowing either mutation cards to start mixed in the deck, be mixed in later, or allowing the entire deck to be used inbetween epidemics).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result, the question of what to do when faced with the original question of how to proceed in the situation of drawing a mutation card during the infect step of an epidemic is moot as it is an impossible scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:47:18.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22662" CreationDate="2015-01-23T17:47:42.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This situation should never occur.  The mutation cards are put into the Infection Discard Pile at the beginning of the game.  So they aren't even in the deck until after the first Epidemic, and at that time they will be put on the top of the deck with the rest of the discard pile.  The only way for them to be on the bottom is to draw the entire Infection deck without hitting an Epidemic, which shouldn't be possible (at least without fan-based rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T17:47:42.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2015-01-23T18:23:52.490" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find board setups for Settlers of Catan on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://menzgaming.com/settlersofcatan/settlers-catan-board-setups/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://menzgaming.com/settlersofcatan/settlers-catan-board-setups/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just started to add Settlers of Catan game boards so the content is still a bit light, but I plan on having dozens for each version of the game(with and without expansions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11623" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T18:23:52.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2015-01-23T23:20:55.910" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One element that I haven't seen in any of the answers yet: a 'lenient' mulligan rule advantages some deck archetypes over others.  Some decks are built on the concept of &lt;em&gt;redundancy&lt;/em&gt;: for a mono-Red aggro or burn deck, for instance, there may be minor differences amongst its various one-mana creatures or its burn spells &amp;mdash; maybe this spell does an extra point of damage but only hits players, maybe creature X has a modest downside but creature Y has one less point of toughness &amp;mdash; but for the most part, they're indistinguishable; just (e.g.) 12 copies of 'guy who costs 1 mana and has 2 power', etc.  For a deck like this, absent issues with drawing the right number of lands, one 7-card hand is going to look like any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, a combo deck &amp;mdash; let's say the Splinter Twin decks in Modern &amp;mdash; is looking for a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; specific set of cards, often to the point where almost all the rest of the deck will be some combination of card draw and selection, with just enough control elements to keep the deck alive while it assembles its combo.  This sort of deck wants a &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; specific set of cards in its opening hand (it would, for the most part, much rather have its combo pieces than have to find them) and so it often has to mulligan aggressively to find them; getting a 'free' seven-card mulligan is worth much, much more to a deck like this than a red aggro deck, and so decks like this become much more viable in the presence of a free-mulligan rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can actually be seen in action in many casual EDH/Commander environments, where people tend to be very lenient in their mulligan rules and so wacky combo decks are often the order of the day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2015-01-23T23:20:55.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22680" CreationDate="2015-01-24T03:32:59.843" Score="6" ViewCount="1109" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been working with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/12009_The_Fastest_Deck_Ever_By_Far_Meandeck_Tendrils_Revisited.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meandeck Tendrils&lt;/a&gt; lately.  In the linked article, Stephen Menendian indicated that while the decklist was tournament legal (at the time), it was not possible to play it in a tournament, as: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The primary reason it's unviable is because you have to compress all of the numerous decisions of a typical Vintage game into the space of one turn - and do that in a reasonable amount of time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain this reasoning?  I am unfamiliar with tournament timing rules, and don't even know where to begin to understand his claim.  Note, in case it's important, the card list for his deck is below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clarification:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This paragraph is added after many comments were made on the original question.  I'm not so interested in a detailed analysis of this deck per se (My version of this deck differs considerably from Stephan's).  I'm interested in why would a deck that's a 66% first turn kill be slow to play?  That said, Stephan's decklist is &lt;em&gt;hard&lt;/em&gt; to play.  My best guess, is that his deck takes at least 5 hard decisions on average, (8 worst case) to play through it's various lines of play.  That is just goldfish play, I have no experience playing against Force Of Will, or other disrupters.  So, it appears Stephan's argument is, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You just can't play this deck enough to automatically know how to make&#xA;  all those hard decisions.  Moreover, those hard decisions take a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;  of time, and you will be too slow for a real tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can buy that.  The dude has experience (as pointed out in the answers or comments below).  I have none.  If I'm missing something about tournament rules, and how slow play works in tournament rules, I'd like to know it.  The answers below do an excellent job of capturing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 Bayou&#xA;1 Polluted Delta&#xA;1 Tropical Island&#xA;1 Black Lotus&#xA;4 Chromatic Sphere&#xA;1 Chrome Mox&#xA;4 Darkwater Egg&#xA;1 Lion's Eye Diamond&#xA;1 Lotus Petal&#xA;1 Mana Crypt&#xA;1 Mana Vault&#xA;1 Mox Emerald&#xA;1 Mox Jet&#xA;1 Mox Pearl&#xA;1 Mox Ruby&#xA;1 Mox Sapphire&#xA;1 Sol Ring&#xA;1 Ancestral Recall&#xA;4 Brainstorm&#xA;4 Cabal Ritual&#xA;4 Dark Ritual&#xA;1 Demonic Consultation&#xA;4 Repeal&#xA;4 Spoils of the Vault&#xA;1 Vampiric Tutor&#xA;1 Demonic Tutor&#xA;1 Imperial Seal&#xA;4 Land Grant&#xA;3 Night's Whisper&#xA;4 Tendrils of Agony&#xA;1 Yawgmoth's Will&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T17:25:27.277" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T15:00:32.993" Title="Why are some decks (i.e. Meandeck Tendrils) not playable in tournaments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22678" CreationDate="2015-01-24T04:30:58.430" Score="3" ViewCount="19865" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to have a card on the battlefield such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=archers%27%20parapet&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Archers' Parapet&lt;/a&gt; and it was my opponents turn could I play the ability of Parapet if I had player priority?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}{B}, {T}: Each opponent loses 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if it is possible to play the ability during my opponents end step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T14:30:03.140" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T14:30:03.140" Title="Can I use a creature's ability on my opponent's turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22679" CreationDate="2015-01-24T04:51:27.320" Score="2" ViewCount="2748" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attack with a manifested (face down) card and my opponent declares blockers, is priority then passed to me so I can turn it face up for its mana cost, or must I turn it up after declaring attackers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11627" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T07:02:36.743" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T07:03:05.733" Title="Can I turn a manifested card face up during the declare blockers step?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22676" CreationDate="2015-01-24T05:16:28.717" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may use a tap ability at instant speed, so as long as the cost is payed and the creature does NOT have summoning sickness you may use the ability whenever you have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11627" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T05:16:28.717" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22677" CreationDate="2015-01-24T06:34:36.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you get priority during the Declare Blockers step. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_Blockers_Step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 509&lt;/a&gt; describes how the Declare Blockers step progresses, and rule 509.5 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fifth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can turn a manifested card face up any time you have priority, so that includes during the Declare Blockers phase. Rule 701.31b says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any time you have priority, you may turn a manifested permanent you control face up. This is a special action that doesn't use the stack (see rule 115.2b). To do this, show all players that the card representing that permanent is a creature card and what its mana cost is, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T07:03:05.733" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T07:03:05.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22675" CreationDate="2015-01-24T06:54:56.050" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Effectively, you need to be able to win two games (possibly after losing one!) in 50 minutes, and give your opponent their fair share of that time too, so if a deck is difficult and time consuming enough to play, you may simply run out of time, and not be able to win matches. And you may never even reach the time limit - if a judge thinks you're playing slowly enough to cause problems, they will step in and force you to speed up or lose. If on the other hand you play fast enough to avoid all this, you'll make too many mistakes, and lose anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All these things are potential issues since as Menendian says in the article, a lot of the decisions you have to make are difficult, and the deck is difficult to play fast enough without making mistakes. (Of course, it's also possible that you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; play it fast and well even though he couldn't - feel free to try to prove him wrong!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournaments, the time limit is typically 50 minutes per round. (Officially, the minimum time limit allowed is 40 minutes but 50 minutes is the recommended time for constructed tournaments). In each round you're playing a best of three match. If someone hasn't won two games by the end of time, the current turn is finished, then five more turns of play are allowed (i.e. three for one player and two for the other); if the game isn't over by then, that game is a draw. If that was the third game (reasonably likely, it's been 50 minutes), each player has won one of the first two games, so the match is a draw as well. So if a deck is slow to play, you'll likely end up with a lot of draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to help make sure that people actually finish their matches, the tournament rules disallow &amp;quot;Slow Play&amp;quot;. It's normally something where a judge will simply give a caution, letting a player know they need to speed up, but if it continues to happen it can lead to more significant penalties. You can't just sit there thinking forever; you'll eventually get a game/match loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point at which you're playing &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; slowly is up to the judges' discretion, though. &lt;a href=&quot;https://channelfireball.com/articles/silvestri-says-its-time-to-stamp-out-slow-play/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article by a couple of judges&lt;/a&gt; goes into some detail about the way they personally think about it, though it's explicitly not official policy. The key thing to notice is that it's largely based on what speed of play is necessary in order to finish games within the allotted time. So while for many decisions 15-30 seconds is about as much time as you can reasonably take, if you're to the point where clearly you'll either win or lose within a minute once you decide, you might get some leeway. Bottom line, though, it's possible you won't actually get to the point of running out of time in the round: a judge may step in sooner and force you to either decide (making your decisions more error-prone) or lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's another problem on top of this: combo decks tend to have long turns, so those few extra turns at the end of the game can drag on for much longer than with other decks. There's only a small amount of buffer time between rounds, so the two players in the extra long match will end up delaying the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; round, upsetting the schedule for the entire tournament. Wizards actually &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/banned-and-restricted-2013-04-22-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;banned Second Sunrise from Modern&lt;/a&gt; in order to stop a combo deck from causing these kinds of delays. That doesn't exactly mean the deck was unplayable (in fact people were doing reasonably well with it), but at the same time, you don't exactly want to be messing up tournaments for others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for this specific deck, I can't personally tell exactly how difficult and slow it is to play, but it certainly &lt;em&gt;looks&lt;/em&gt; hard. There are an awful lot of decisions, and getting any of them wrong could totally derail you, so you'd have to take your time and get it all right under pressure. I would tend to trust the opinion of the experienced player who wrote that article and assume he's right that it's simply too hard to play within the available time. On the other hand, perhaps with enough skill (or enough practice) you could get fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T15:00:32.993" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T15:00:32.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-24T16:10:23.707" Score="1" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;In josekipedia, they state that this exchange is a mistake&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KkUl0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.josekipedia.com/#path:pdttpfqcpcqdqepbobrbpaqaqb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.josekipedia.com/#path:pdttpfqcpcqdqepbobrbpaqaqb&lt;/a&gt; for the full sequence they argue with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I think that their argument is wrong! Why would white not follow making this shape, which is alive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wU4l9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that there are perhaps better possibilities for white's second move (in terms of points, not life &amp;amp; death), but the followup of the &quot;mistake&quot; and argument they present doesn't seem right for the above reason. Or did I miss something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt; actually, this shape works in the following joseki: &lt;a href=&quot;http://josekipedia.com/#path:qettodqcpcqdperb&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://josekipedia.com/#path:qettodqcpcqdperb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0gyH.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T11:10:16.783" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T11:10:16.783" Title="3-3 invasion into 4-4,6-4" Tags="|go|joseki|invasion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22682" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-24T17:43:31.900" Score="23" ViewCount="3662" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any rule or reason why you can't shuffle your discard pile during moments of downtime, in order to get a better shuffle once your deck is fully depleted? My understanding is that the discard pile is a space to which order and sequence don't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;To clarify:&lt;/em&gt; I do not mean &lt;em&gt;shuffle discard pile back into draw pile&lt;/em&gt;, I simply mean shuffling the idle discard pile with itself, and still following the rules for when to reshuffle for a new draw pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="8448" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T08:32:25.603" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T22:26:31.723" Title="Can you shuffle your discard pile?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14441" CreationDate="2015-01-24T17:56:09.360" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule is you draw 1 card during draw and 1 card only. You only draw more cards if you are instructed by a card to do so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11630" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2015-01-24T18:20:16.287" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T18:20:16.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2015-01-24T19:33:24.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;White hanes at S15, and when Black counter hanes at S14, White plays the key move, Q18. After two hane and connection moves, White lives with T16, ending the sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black should have haned at S 18 instead of playing 1 (R15), and then connected at R18.That forces White to crawl along the second line to S14, just to live. Black plays R13, and has White running along the &quot;line of defeat.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corner sequence is &quot;double sente&quot; for either Black or White, and more to the point, relates to the life or death of White.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-01-24T19:33:24.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22682" CreationDate="2015-01-24T21:51:50.790" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;edit:&lt;/em&gt; The OP was not clear whether it meant &quot;&lt;em&gt;shuffle the discard pile and put it back in the draw pile&lt;/em&gt;&quot; or just &quot;&lt;em&gt;shuffle the discard pile&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. Now that's clear, I'm adding the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True, as the rules stand right now, the order in the discard pile does not &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; matter (sometimes it does, see below). Theoretically, you could shuffle the discard pile at any time and just keep it away from the draw pile. The rules do not let you still do it for the following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The status of your discard pile might still change before the &quot;proper&quot; reshuffle, thus you might still have to reshuffle. Consider the following example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw pile: 0 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in hand: Market, 4 others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are going to play the Market, which lets you draw a card, so why not shuffle the discard pile while waiting for your next turn? Well, you might receive a Curse until then, so you'll still have to reshuffle with the Curse in it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Reserved for future &quot;discard pile&quot; rules. Currently, there are no cards that do something, say, with the top card of the discard pile, so the order in it does not matter. Despite that, the rules still don't explicitly let you shuffle arbitrarily, because DXV likes to have as much room as possible for future cards. For example, one day he could design a card that does something with the top card of the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness, there are actually cards that &lt;strong&gt;care&lt;/strong&gt; about the order of the discard pile: &lt;strong&gt;Watchtower&lt;/strong&gt;. When you gain a card, you may reveal the Watchtower to trash that card or top-deck it. If you do, then the Watchtower expects to find the card &lt;strong&gt;on top of the discard pile&lt;/strong&gt;. Consider the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a Watchtower in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain an Inn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, there are two things that happen at the same time: you either trigger the Inn or the Watchtower first.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suppose you resolve the Inn first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose as many action cards as you want from your discard pile and you shuffle them in your deck, but not the Inn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you leave the Inn somewhere inside your discard pile, but not on top, then you may &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; reveal the Watchtower to topdeck/trash it, as the Watchtower has lost track of the Inn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nevertheless, if you leave the Inn on top, then you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; reveal the Watchtower (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Complete_and_All-Encompassing_Dominion_FAQ#toc119&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the base-game rules, you &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; shuffle the discard pile when you need to do something with the &lt;em&gt;draw pile&lt;/em&gt; (e.g., draw cards, reveal cards, etc) and there are not enough cards to do so. You cannot arbitrarily shuffle the discard pile whenever you want to, for a couple of reasons, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An opponent likely holds a &lt;em&gt;Witch&lt;/em&gt; (or any curser) in hand. Your draw pile has been depleted and you hold your last 5 cards in hand. You would like to reshuffle immediately, so that the Curse will &quot;miss&quot; the reshuffle and will not see it soon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are ready to buy your first Province and you're close to reshuffle. You'd like to reshuffle immediately, so that you won't see &quot;soon&quot; the Province.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have just reshuffled and played a key card (e.g., Witch). You discard the Witch, but you have over 30 cards in your deck. You'd like to immediately reshuffle your discard pile so that you'd see the Witch again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any cards that you gain go immediately to your discard pile (unless stated otherwise). Thus, if you shuffle the discard pile, these cards will enter the draw pile, whether you'd like it or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are cards that do something with the discard pile, like Counting House, Hermit, Inn, Herald, etc. Arbitrarily shuffling the discard pile (or not) directly affects these cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, there is a general, fair rule, that makes &lt;em&gt;sense&lt;/em&gt; as well: you shuffle only when there are not enough cards to do something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="10362" LastEditDate="2017-01-13T22:26:31.723" LastActivityDate="2017-01-13T22:26:31.723" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22682" CreationDate="2015-01-25T02:38:06.123" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that there are no published cards that care about the order of your discard pile.  What I often do is shuffle it, leave it where it is face down.  If I have to discard further, I slide those in and reshuffle, otherwise, I announce that this is my preshuffled discard deck, now needed as my draw deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2015-01-25T02:38:06.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-25T06:32:24.303" Score="10" ViewCount="6059" Body="&lt;p&gt;If triggered abilities from sources controlled by multiple players all trigger at the same time, in what order do they resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Obzedat%2C%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Obzedat, Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt; and at least two other creatures on my side of the field and my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archfiend%20of%20Depravity&quot;&gt;Archfiend of Depravity&lt;/a&gt;, can I use Obezdat's ability of exiling him to save him from Archfiend's ability at the end step? Since both abilities trigger at the beginning of the end step, whose ability resolves first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11638" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T17:48:07.437" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T12:45:28.043" Title="Triggered abilities from multiple players. Whose resolves first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2020-04-02T17:50:40.177" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22688" CreationDate="2015-01-25T07:48:01.547" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triggers controlled by your opponent will resolve first, so you cannot use Obzedat's ability to exile it before the Archfiend's ability resolves. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 603.3b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, &lt;strong&gt;each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses&lt;/strong&gt;. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;APNAP&quot;&lt;/a&gt; here means &lt;strong&gt;Active Player, Non-Active Player&lt;/strong&gt;. When the abilities trigger, first the active player (the player taking the turn) puts abilities they control on the stack, then the other player does. This means that your Obzedat's ability goes on the stack, followed by the Archfiend's ability, so the Archfiend's ability resolves before you have a chance to exile Obzedat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="10162" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T12:45:28.043" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T12:45:28.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22681" CreationDate="2015-01-25T11:46:58.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe &lt;em&gt;I'm&lt;/em&gt; missing something, but I don't think that shape is alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B &#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . O 7 1 . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 4 . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 5 O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | 6 2 X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 3 . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 is atari, so White loses the eye in the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B &#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . O . 1 . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 5 . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 4 O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 2 X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 3 . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is dead, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B &#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . 5 . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 4 O . 1 . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 3 . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 2 O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: Turns out I didn't show the trickiest variation.  When White plays 4, 5 is hard to find, but it's often a tesuji in this kind of shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B &#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . O . 1 . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 4 . O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | . 2 X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 5 3 . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think White is still dead.  If he goes this way, 4 is the tesuji:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . 3 2 . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 4 O 1 X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 5 . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | O 6 O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | X X . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here he gets a false eye:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . 4 . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 1 O . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | O 3 O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | 2 O X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | X X . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way, the throw in still destroys the lower eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ | . 3 . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . O 2 X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | 1 . O X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | O 4 O X . . . . . , . . . .&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | X X . X . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastEditorUserId="2086" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T10:06:41.997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T10:06:41.997" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22714" CreationDate="2015-01-26T03:33:06.577" Score="2" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules are a bit confusing about where shootouts can happen. All of the examples, both in the Welcome to Gomorra tutorial and in the rulebook, show shootouts happening in order to contest control over a deed card. The rules consistently mention the &quot;location&quot; that a shootout is occurring, but don't seem to ever define what counts a location. Is it just deeds or does the town square count as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can shootouts occur in the town square?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T06:05:46.190" Title="Can shootouts happen in the town square?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22711" CreationDate="2015-01-26T03:52:05.133" Score="1" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am told that there are some collectible card games and living card games that have a metaplot. For instance, I am told that Alderac Entertainment Group (AEG) has &lt;em&gt;Legend of the Five Rings&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt; have an ongoing story in the background that is furthered as new sets come out. Apparently it's a pretty involved metaplot too, as I've heard of a lot of fans of the &lt;em&gt;Legend of the Five Rings&lt;/em&gt; RPG complaining about the changes introduced by the CCG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have heard that throughout the run of the &lt;em&gt;Legend of the Five Rings&lt;/em&gt; CCG, different people have become emperor and new threats (e.g. politcal coups, demon invasions) have emerged and apparently had a specific canon resolution (e.g. the coup failed but the emperor was mortally wounded, so dude X is the new Emperor). These events are all somehow established by the cards int he game and became canon, becoming part of the timeline and affecting those who play the RPG and read any tie-in media, such as novels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work? I'm having a hard time imagining a story being told as part of a deck of cards with one sentence flavor text on each of them. At first, I thought maybe new boxed sets included fiction stories in the rulebooks, but as far as I can tell, that's not the case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do CCGs and LCGs have an ongoing metaplot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, my experience with card games in the past is stuff like &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh!&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Pokémon Trading Card Game&lt;/em&gt;, which definitely did not have metaplot (at least, not metaplot that was furthered by the card game itself as opposed to a TV show or other media).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: To clarify, it is my understanding that the &lt;em&gt;Legend of the Five Rings&lt;/em&gt; CCG and &lt;em&gt;Doomtown&lt;/em&gt; are not having their metaplot advanced by their corresponding RPGs or anything else, but they are doing it through the cards themselves. My question is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; about a card game where the game metaplot changes based on some other media (e.g. Season 2 of a TV show has a storyline where the hero gets a new power, so a new card is released reflecting this story development).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T17:46:31.577" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T21:47:19.647" Title="How do CCGs/LCGs have an ongoing metaplot?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|legend-of-the-five-rings|metaplot|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22693" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-26T03:57:45.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt; is an Expandable Card Game (ECG) produced by Alderac Entertainment Group set in the Deadlands setting. It is the successor to the collectible card game &lt;em&gt;Doomtown&lt;/em&gt; (formerly &lt;em&gt;Deadlands: Doomtown&lt;/em&gt;) and was released in 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-16T20:51:34.873" LastActivityDate="2018-10-16T20:51:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22694" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-26T03:57:45.953" Score="0" Body="A Expandable Card Game (ECG) produced by Alderac Entertainment Group set in the Deadlands setting." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T14:36:14.053" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T14:36:14.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22695" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:01:47.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Star Wars: Empire vs. Rebellion&lt;/em&gt; is a two player card game produced by Fantasy Flight Games and set in the Star Wars universe. It was released in 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T08:14:15.620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T08:14:15.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22696" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:01:47.920" Score="0" Body="A two player card game produced by Fantasy Flight Games and set in the Star Wars universe." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T07:57:51.980" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T07:57:51.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22697" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:06:28.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chinese Checkers is a strategy game for two, three, four, or six players. It is based on the German game Halma and was first introduced in Germany as the game Stern-Halma (literally Star-Halma).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to be the first player to advance all of your pieces from your star corner to the opposite star corner, across the hexagonal board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhUbw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xhUbw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The hexagonal-star board used to play this game&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Image courtesy of &lt;a href=&quot;https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ChineseCheckersboard.jpeg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;WikiCommons&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the name suggests, this game is based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halma&lt;/a&gt; another marble jumping game, except played on a square board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T15:50:33.593" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T15:50:33.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22698" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:06:28.790" Score="0" Body="Use this tag for Chinese Checkers, also known as Sternhalma, or Chinese Chequers (UK). This is an abstract strategy game of German origin, for two, three, four, or six players using marbles. It is played on a hexagonal board with each face have an additional triangle where the board pieces start." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2021-11-27T15:50:56.660" LastActivityDate="2021-11-27T15:50:56.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22699" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:08:49.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Taboo&lt;/em&gt; is a word guessing party game published by Hasbro, first introduced in 1989. The goal is for players to get their partners to correctly guess the word on a card without saying the word itself or a number of other words also printed on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T07:57:37.987" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T07:57:37.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22700" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-26T04:08:49.643" Score="0" Body="A word guessing party game published by Hasbro." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T07:57:44.217" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T07:57:44.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22703" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-26T05:45:41.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Day &amp;amp; Night&lt;/em&gt; is a strategic two player board game published by Mystics.nl and released in 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T07:22:39.037" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T07:22:39.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22704" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-26T05:45:41.217" Score="0" Body="A strategic two player board game published by Mystics.nl" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T07:57:40.873" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T07:57:40.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22692" CreationDate="2015-01-26T14:14:28.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh does have a Meta Plot that is advanced by game play. It has several, actually, that follow the histories and relations of the many archetypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your question, which I will simply summarize as &quot;How do collectible card games and limited card games have Meta-Plots?&quot; I will answer as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Designers of card games often create stories when creating their cards and original characters, not unlike how authors might create a back story for their characters that may or may not make it to print. It is a natural part of creation to grow attached to what you spend hours upon hours designing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will use Magic: the Gathering to explain this. Imagine, if you will, being a traveler who explores the world (lands) and gaining knowledge (cards in hand) and allies (creatures/planeswalkers). The more you explore, the more powerful you become (playing 1 land per turn and/or playing stronger creatures). When you play a game, you are telling a story of a rivalry between 2 people that must, ultimately, end in someone's demise. A game of Magic: the Gathering could account for years of conflict in the world of Magic's characters. Are you a sliver slayer? Are you at war with the Goblins? Did you forge an alliance with Jace or Chandra in your travels? Will you learn the spells needed (draw the right cards) to defeat your opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of this can be portrayed as a story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T14:14:28.910" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22584" CreationDate="2015-01-26T14:38:12.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This rule only applies for Strength, unless there is some errata they choose not to print. I hope this help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11620" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T14:38:12.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22692" CreationDate="2015-01-26T17:23:42.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine, if you will, a game like &lt;strong&gt;MLB Showdown&lt;/strong&gt;, where the characters on the cards are actual, real-life baseball players. Some cards you play indicate tactics and actions in baseball; other cards represent players on your team. Every year, a new &quot;season&quot; comes out. Sometimes ballplayers change teams; most times, their stats rise and fall based on their real world abilities. Now imagine that the organized play for this game mandated that you used only the cards from the most recent season. You might find that players you liked were no longer good in your deck, or that new players popped up that outclassed older ones, or that your favorite player was now on another team entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how metaplot in CCGs worked, especially when it comes to games from AEG. Each character card shows or references an event; each character card shows a significant persona in the story and the way they appear now, as opposed to last time. An expansion would show events from different parts of the changing storyline; characters would change, fortunes would rise and fall. The story of &lt;strong&gt;Legend of the Five Rings&lt;/strong&gt; was basically an Asian-themed &quot;&lt;em&gt;Game of Thrones.&lt;/em&gt;&quot; (Now imagine if you had Ned Stark in your deck; and then suddenly — well, you know.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, which factions were on top were determined by an aggregate of tournament reports around the world — the games being played would be translated after a fashion into changes in the world's fiction. This synergy was a great draw to some people, but alienated others, as you've heard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T21:47:19.647" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T21:47:19.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22708" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-26T17:53:57.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rock, paper, scissors&lt;/em&gt; is a gesture game typically played by two people. It is also called roshambo, ick-ack-ock, other variations depending on the culture. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T19:49:55.577" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T19:49:55.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22709" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-26T17:53:57.633" Score="0" Body="A gesture game typically played by two people. Also called roshambo, ick-ack-ock, and other variations depending on the culture" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-26T19:49:50.243" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T19:49:50.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15016" CreationDate="2015-01-26T18:21:25.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well I'd say Penguin Soldier falls into your &quot;what I'm not looking for&quot;, but as you mentioned SwapFrog it just came to my mind, that I used to have two penguin soldiers sending back each other and a second card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your very specific need might not be satisfied by it, but it actually sounds like there is no 'perfect' card for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11655" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T02:21:22.037" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T02:21:22.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22692" CreationDate="2015-01-26T18:52:49.953" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I decided to e-mail someone who is more familiar with the &lt;em&gt;Legend of the Five Rings&lt;/em&gt; collectible card game and got a pretty helpful answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider for instance the &lt;a href=&quot;http://l5r.wikia.com/wiki/Race_for_the_Throne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Race for the Throne&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; storyline of the L5R card game. This was a storyline where the emperor's throne was vacant with no heir and there was a sort of civil war to determine who should become emperor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that you seem to have not been aware of is that AEG &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.l5r.com/fictions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;publishes fiction stories online&lt;/a&gt; for L5R and their other games (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/doomtown/category/story/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Doomtown too&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;em&gt;Race for the Throne&lt;/em&gt; had &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kazenoshiro.com/fictions/samurai-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a whole collection of stories&lt;/a&gt; that talked about which people each clan put forth as candidates, what issues arose, who died in the conflict, and so on. This was where the majority of metaplot took place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the stories had something happen to a particular person, they would be reflected in a new version of their character in the next edition (or in the rare even that someone died in the fiction, they would be completely omitted from the next edition). For instance, &lt;em&gt;Race for the Throne&lt;/em&gt; had Kitsuki Iweko as &lt;a href=&quot;http://imperialassembly.com/oracle/#cardid=4414&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Daimyo&lt;/a&gt; as a reflection of the development she gained during the &lt;em&gt;Rain of Blood&lt;/em&gt; arc (Diamond Edition) where she was just &lt;a href=&quot;http://imperialassembly.com/oracle/#cardid=4413&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Samurai&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from characters, the cards also tended to reflect the events of the stories as well. For &lt;em&gt;Race for the Throne&lt;/em&gt;, these were cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.l5rsearch.com/db/search.cgi?cmd=detail&amp;amp;card_id=6872&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Throne Stands Empty&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.l5rsearch.com/db/search.cgi?cmd=detail&amp;amp;card_id=7183&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Claimants to the Throne&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.l5rsearch.com/db/search.cgi?cmd=detail&amp;amp;card_id=7556&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Claiming the Throne&lt;/a&gt;. Often times, flavor text quotes attributed to certain people were in fact quotes from the fiction itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AEG will also base the storyline off of the results of high level tournaments, particularly the world championships. If memory serves, the 2007 World Championships were represented in-universe as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://l5r.wikia.com/wiki/Celestial_Tournament&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Celestial Tournament&lt;/a&gt; where the winning player got to have their faction crown their champion as emperor, concluding the &lt;em&gt;Race to the Throne&lt;/em&gt; arc. The winner of the world championships was a player who played a Dragon clan deck, so the Dragon clan champion, Iweko, was crowned Empress Iweko I.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the specifics about the 2007 World Championships have been taken down, but I found similar info on their website for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.l5r.com/2014/09/12/2014-world-championship-story-prizes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the 2014 World Championships&lt;/a&gt;. For instance, there was the storyline event &amp;quot;Something Wicked…&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Even in the most prosperous of times, there are dire omens that must be heeded. In Rokugan, there is one omen that is darker than all others, one sign that causes the faithful to rush to shrines and temples and pray to their Fortunes and ancestors of choice for guidance and protection. There is one portent that is so dire that there can be no room for interpretation, but instead its presence affords certainty that there are dark and terrible things upon the horizon.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Porcelain Mask of Fu Leng has returned.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winner of this tournament may select any one personality affiliated with his faction. That personality will be responsible for discovering the mask’s return to Rokugan, and will be among the first to realize what disaster looms upon the horizon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of this, future stories by AEG will involve whichever person the winner of the tournament picked to be the one who found the mask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the ongoing metaplot happens in a couple of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiction stories published by AEG&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards that reflect those fiction stories&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Input from players who win championships or other special events&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that it's rare for the RPG to affect the CCG metaplot (which I think is partly why RPG players hate the CCG metaplot changes, especially since sometimes there are pretty drastic shifts in status quo). I suspect that's because the CCG is more of a moneymaker and story prizes are a really good incentive for those who care about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T18:52:49.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11" CreationDate="2015-01-26T20:27:18.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a big proponent of playing as Italy. Here's how I do it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;no diplomacy for the first year!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Ven - Pied &amp;amp; A Rome - Ven!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack Marseilles and Trieste! (also grab Tunis)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you get both SC's, try to ally with Eng/Germ/Russ.&#xA;If you fail to get allies, promise to vacate one and focus on the other. It is easier to ally with Austria than France in my opinion at this point, because it is harder for Austria to not care and attack you all out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;France can swing south and make it hurt.&#xA;Ideally, you want to get a Fleet in to the English Channel by 1904! This way you own the EAST.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not ally with Turkey unless he becomes a land power, because his fleets are dangerous.&#xA;Good luck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11656" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T06:14:50.043" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T06:14:50.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22675" CreationDate="2015-01-26T20:39:41.960" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that he meant that if you play the deck at a reasonable pace, you're likely going to make too many fatal mistakes for it to be worth it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storm decks are infamously hard to execute because you have to think through a 10 layer or deeper decision tree before you even begin to execute it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason the author brought up the time limit, is probably because of how long it will take you to make each decision correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3538" LastActivityDate="2015-01-26T20:39:41.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22691" CreationDate="2015-01-26T23:37:23.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can have Shoot-Outs in Town Square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 18: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a Noon play, one of your unbooted dudes can choose a dude controlled by another player at the same location, and call out that dude (challenge that dude to a shootout). This doesn’t boot your dude, and so as long as your dude stays unbooted, they can call out an opposing dude each and every time it’s your turn to make a play.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on page 12 it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are three types of in-town locations. Each deed is its own location. Each outfit’s home is a location (with a few special rules). And the area in the middle of the table is a location called the town square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shootouts happen when dudes are at the same location and there are three types of in-town locations, one of which is the town square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11658" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T06:05:46.190" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T06:05:46.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22716" CreationDate="2015-01-27T02:32:59.733" Score="3" ViewCount="7833" Body="&lt;p&gt;While going through Fate Reforged, I became a little bit confused by the new mechanic Dash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/frf/en/102.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Goblin Heelcutter&lt;/a&gt;, the ability states as such:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Goblin Heelcutter attacks, target creature can't block this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dash {2}{R} (You may cast this spell for its dash cost. If you do, it gains haste, and it's returned from the battlefield to its owner's hand at the beginning of the next end step.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, since the creature is a 3/2, if it was assigned a blocker and dealt more than 2 damage, would it still return to the owner's hand at the beginning of the next end step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/B4MlP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10102" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T15:37:33.257" Title="Will a creature cast with Dash still return to your hand if it dies in combat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22715" CreationDate="2015-01-27T02:48:16.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it's dead, it's not coming back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder text isn't actually official rules, but it is there to help you out, and there's a key phrase in the reminder text to help you in this case just from the card, without having to look things up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may cast this spell for its dash cost. If you do, it gains haste, and it's returned &lt;strong&gt;from the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; to its owner's hand at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's not on the battlefield anymore, it can't be returned from there to your hand! So if it dies (or is exiled or otherwise leaves the battlefield) before the end of the turn, whether due to combat damage or a removal spell or anything else, it won't come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-fate-reforged-2014-12-29&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Fate Reforged article&lt;/a&gt; also mentioned this, among all the other helpful information about the mechanics. It's a good article to read if you want to make sure you understand everything from the new set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you cast a creature spell using its dash cost, it will return to your hand only if it's still on the battlefield at the beginning of the next end step. If it leaves the battlefield before that point, it'll just stay wherever it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want the actual rules, the comprehensive rules mention that dash actually does a few separate things, one of which is the return-to-hand ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.108a Dash represents three abilities: two static abilities that function while the card with dash is on the stack, one of which may create a delayed triggered ability, and a static ability that functions while the object with dash is on the battlefield. “Dash [cost]” means “You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather that its mana cost,” &lt;strong&gt;“If this spell’s dash cost was paid, return the permanent this spell becomes to its owner’s hand at the beginning of the next end step,”&lt;/strong&gt; and “As long as this permanent’s dash cost was paid, it has haste.” Paying a card’s dash cost follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2e–g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it specifically says &quot;return the &lt;strong&gt;permanent&lt;/strong&gt;...&quot; - if the creature has left the battlefield already, it's no longer a permanent, so there's nothing to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="10102" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T03:29:03.320" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T03:29:03.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22717" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22738" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:23:07.040" Score="2" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt; comes with a very helpful player board that looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UnRK0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of the Doomtown: Reloaded player board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/2055349/doomtown-reloaded&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Original image source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notably, there are four spots for In-Town Deed cards. Is this a hard limit? I didn't spot anything in the rules regarding the maximum number of deeds and since the board is optional, I'm not sure if it meant that this was a true limit or if it was just how many they decided to print on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is a player limited to four In-Town Deed cards? Or can they have as many as they want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T19:26:27.850" Title="Is a player limited to four In-Town Deed cards?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22718" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:32:57.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thud&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player board game by The Cunning Artificer set Terry Pratchett's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Discworld&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Discworld&lt;/a&gt;. It was first published in 2002.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:51:29.167" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:51:29.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22719" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:32:57.810" Score="0" Body="A two-player board game by The Cunning Artificer set in the world of Terry Pratchett's Discworld" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:50:47.960" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:50:47.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22720" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:43:21.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;HeroClix&lt;/em&gt; is a collectible miniatures game primarily for superheroes from DC Comics and Marvel. Miniatures for other intellectual properties, such as Star Trek, Middle-Earth, and Street Fighter, have also been released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was designed by WizKids who served as their initial publishers from 2002-2003. The Topps Company produced the game from 2003-2009 and it is currently produced by NECA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:50:43.487" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:50:43.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22721" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:43:21.997" Score="0" Body="A collectible miniatures game primarily for superheroes from DC Comics and Marvel" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:51:37.773" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:51:37.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22722" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:50:53.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Game of Life&lt;/em&gt;, also called LIFE, is a board game by the Milton Bradley Company where players simulate a journey through their life. It was originally released in 1860 as &lt;em&gt;The Checkered Game of Life&lt;/em&gt; before being rereleased in its modern form in 1960. Several revisions have changed the events that happen during a simulated life and the mechanics of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:51:25.220" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:51:25.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22723" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:50:53.357" Score="0" Body="A board game by the Milton Bradley Company where players simulate a journey through their life" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:51:43.430" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:51:43.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22724" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:55:46.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Alexandros&lt;/em&gt; is strategy game by Rio Grande Games inspired by the conquests of Alexander the Great. It was first published in 2003.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:50:50.823" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:50:50.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22725" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-27T04:55:46.063" Score="0" Body="A strategy game by Rio Grande Games inspired by the conquests of Alexander the Great" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:51:33.020" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T11:51:33.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22740" CreationDate="2015-01-27T07:28:21.287" Score="15" ViewCount="14778" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the beginning, Magic: the Gathering decks had to have at least 40 cards. Later, &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/twenty-things-were-going-kill-magic-2013-08-05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the developers changed the deckbuilding rules in two ways&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The minimum deck size went from 40 cards to 60 cards in Constructed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could only have up to 4 copies of each card in your deck that wasn't a basic land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I totally understand the decision to limit you to 4 copies of any one card; this needs no explanation. However, why did they change the minimum deck size? I can find conflicted references to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG/comments/2jxr9z/when_did_they_switch_from_40_card_decks_to_60/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; it happened&lt;/a&gt;, but I have yet to find &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it happened. So: why did it happen? What motivated Wizards of the Coast to make the change?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware there's multiple possible gameplay or sales reasons or benefits. What I am most interested in is the serious reasons that &lt;em&gt;actually motivated the change,&lt;/em&gt; and the serious reasons why this minimum remains the case to this day and has not yet been increased or decreased in over 20 years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Good answers to this question will demonstrate that Wizards of the Coast was and is motivated by the issues that answer describes.&lt;/strong&gt; This is to ensure this question can have an actual demonstrably objectively correct answer, and avoid it becoming and endless list of possible reasons and impacts. A good answer must clear this bar before it also engages in speculation, and should delineate what is speculation and what is certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T06:00:32.387" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T06:00:32.387" Title="Why did Wizards of the Coast change the minimum deck size for Constructed from 40 to 60 cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22728" CreationDate="2015-01-27T11:25:18.363" Score="4" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature equipped with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Livewire%20Lash&quot;&gt;Livewire Lash&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chalice%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Chalice of the Void&lt;/a&gt; in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a spell which targets the creature equipped with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Livewire%20Lash&quot;&gt;Livewire Lash&lt;/a&gt; but the spell is countered due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chalice%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Chalice of the Void&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Livewire%20Lash&quot;&gt;Livewire Lash&lt;/a&gt; still trigger even if the spell was countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10183" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T11:43:37.770" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T13:34:44.553" Title="Does Livewire Lash trigger if a spell is countered by Chalice of the Void" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22727" CreationDate="2015-01-27T11:52:56.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Livewire Lash will still be triggered. Here's how it'll go down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You place your spell on the stack, pick your targets (including that creature equipped with Livewire Lash), and pay for it. Casting's now done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That creature is now the target of a spell. Also, you've just cast a spell that the Chalice cares about. Both of you have a triggered ability to put on the stack. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/22688/5573&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, triggers go on the stack in APNAP order: active player first, then non-active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature's Lash-granted ability, and the Chalice ability, will go on the stack. (If it's your turn, the Chalice ability will be on top, otherwise Lash will be on top. Either way, the effect is the same.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now things will start resolving, if nobody does anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two triggered abilities resolve in whichever order is applicable. Chalice's ability resolves, and counters the original spell. The creature's Lash-granted ability resolves, and its damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(The spell would resolve here, but it was countered.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So go ahead and fire off spells like this if you find it's worth the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T13:34:44.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T14:34:11.590" Score="1" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've created a set of rules for a card game I would like to test, but I have no clue on how to build my nice-looking cards.&#xA;Any hint on what program/site to use is very welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11650" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T17:07:07.260" Title="How can I create my own card for my own game?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-01-27T19:24:48.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22732" CreationDate="2015-01-27T14:48:43.853" Score="3" ViewCount="111" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tsumego.tasuki.org/books/cho-2-intermediate.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This tsumego (intermediate problem 11)&lt;/a&gt; gave me hard time:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/u2EGj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually only found a solution where black must win the ko two times, which is nasty. Is there a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It actually looks like &quot;bent 5&quot; :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My solution here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jf9tb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rAzIV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fE81Q.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T06:43:59.330" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T06:43:59.330" Title="Tsumego intermediate problem 11 - possible without winning ko two times?" Tags="|go|tsumego|ko|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T15:16:55.177" Score="4" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Gatherer, I can see the original wording for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Vault&quot;&gt;Time Vault&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap to gain an additional turn after the current one. Time Vault doesn't untap normally during untap phase; to untap it, you must skip a turn. Time Vault begins tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I can see the most recent errata:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault enters the battlefield tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Time Vault doesn't untap during your untap step.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you would begin your turn while Time Vault is tapped, you may skip that turn instead. If you do, untap Time Vault.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Tap: Take an extra turn after this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Google, I was able to find a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/latest-developments/power-level-errata-b-gone-2006-07-14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;few more&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/vintage/11812_Deus_Ex_Errata_Debating_the_Changes_to_Time_Vault.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;revisions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault comes into play tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Time Vault doesn't untap during your untap step.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Skip your next turn: Untap Time Vault and put a time counter on it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;T, Remove all time counters from Time Vault: Take an extra turn after this one. Play this ability if only there's a time counter on Time Vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault comes into play tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Time Vault doesn't untap during your untap step.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;At the beginning of your upkeep you may untap Time Vault. If you do, put a time counter on it and you skip your next turn.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;T, Remove all time counters from Time Vault: Take an extra turn after this one. Play this ability only if there's a time counter on Time Vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault comes into play tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If Time Vault would become untapped, instead choose one -- untap Time Vault and you skip your next turn; or Time Vault remains tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;T: Take an extra turn after this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... But are there any more versions? For the sake of historical curiosity, I'm interested in seeing every revision listed in one place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T16:03:57.713" Title="What are all the previous Oracle text revisions for Time Vault?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22730" CreationDate="2015-01-27T15:45:22.037" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's the best you can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T15:45:22.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22731" CreationDate="2015-01-27T16:03:57.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtggoldfish.com/articles/evolution-of-magic-the-roller-coaster-called-time-vault&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MtG Goldfish&lt;/a&gt; the different erratas of Time Vault are as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1993, the original printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap to gain an additional turn after the current one. Time Vault doesn't untap normally during untap phase; to untap it, you must skip a turn. Time Vault begins tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1996, made some power level errata to make it go from broken to useless:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does not untap as normal. If Time Vault is tapped and does not have a time counter, you may skip your turn to untap Time Vault and put a time counter on it. {tap}: Remove the time counter from Time Vault to take an additional turn immediately before the next normal turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1998 &amp;amp; 2004, edited the template to match current rules. (this is the 2004 text):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault comes into play tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Time Vault doesn't untap during your untap step.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Skip your next turn: Untap time vault and put a time counter on it.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;{T}, Remove all time counters from Time Vault: Take an extra turn after this one. Play this ability if only there's a time counter on Time Vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;March 2006, to stop an unintended combo with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flame%20Fusillade&quot;&gt;Flame Fusillade&lt;/a&gt; abusing unlimited untaps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault comes into play tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Time Vault doesn't untap during your untap step.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;At the beginning of your upkeep you may untap Time Vault. If you do put a time counter on it and you skip your next turn.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;{T} Remove all time counters from Time Vault: Take an extra turn after this one. Play this ability only if there's a time counter on Time Vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;July 2006, as far as I can tell there isn't a reason for this eratta (other than bad &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mizzium%20Transreliquat&quot;&gt;Mizzium Transreliquat&lt;/a&gt; combos):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault comes into play tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If Time Vault would become untapped, instead choose one -- untap Time Vault and you skip your next turn or Time Vault remains tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;{T}: Take an extra turn after this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2008, Wizards finally decides to remove all power level errata and returns Time Vault to its original functionality just with an updated template:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Time Vault enters the Battlefield tapped.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Time Vault doesn't untap during your untap step.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If you would begin your turn while Time Vault is tapped, you may skip that turn instead. If you do, untap Time Vault.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;{T}: Take an extra turn after this one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T16:03:57.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-27T16:14:47.613" Score="23" ViewCount="4795" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nathan controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jeskai%20Infiltrator&quot;&gt;Jeskai Infiltrator&lt;/a&gt;. His deck has green sleeves. Anthony controls three Mountains. His deck has blue sleeves. Anthony casts and resolves &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;, gaining control of Infiltrator. He attacks Nathan, deals combat damage, and triggers and resolves Infiltrator's ability. Anthony now controls two manifested permanents: Jeskai Infiltrator and a random card from the top of his deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can Anthony desleeve both manifested cards, or otherwise manipulate them so that they cannot be differentiated?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assume the cards are not sleeved to begin with, or Nathan is colorblind, so that Nathan is unable to differentiate between the two face down cards. Is Anthony obligated to tell Nathan which card is the card that he owns?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that, depending on the answer, Jeskai Infiltrator's ability might not work the way it was intended. If Nathan knows which card is which, then shuffling them is pointless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for a rules based answer if one exists. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/fate-reforged-release-notes-2015-01-14&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Release Notes for Fate Reforged&lt;/a&gt; say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card's owner is public information at all times. If the two cards you exile are owned by different players (perhaps because you gained control of a Jeskai Infiltrator owned by your opponent), which card is which is no longer hidden from your opponent. That player will know which face-down creature he or she owns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it does not provide rules to back this up. I checked the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_23jan2015_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; on Free, Derived, and Private information, but I found no mention of this. If the answer depends on what Rules Enforcement Level you are playing at, please describe the rule as it applies to each level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T02:07:35.993" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T23:38:27.497" Title="Am I obligated to identify cards owned by an opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22734" CreationDate="2015-01-27T17:03:09.293" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;I too was unable to find anything in either the CR or MTR defining this, so I asked &lt;a href=&quot;http://tabakrules.tumblr.com/post/109308967074/for-jeskai-infiltrator-the-frf-release-notes-say#permalink-notes&quot;&gt;Matt Tabak&lt;/a&gt;, current Rules Manager of Magic and he said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just assumed that was self-evident. Like, if you get up from the table, you should know which cards to take with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/109310450374/for-jeskai-infiltrator-the-frf-release-notes-say&quot;&gt;Level 2 Judge&lt;/a&gt; I asked said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From a practical standpoint, you’re going to be using different sleeves from your opponent 95% of the time. Even if the sleeves are the same, you have a right to your property, so you have the right to know which cards you own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T17:22:12.490" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T17:22:12.490" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22734" CreationDate="2015-01-27T17:05:47.117" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot obscure information about face down cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;707.6. If you control multiple face-down spells or face-down permanents, you must ensure at all times that your face-down spells&#xA;  and permanents can be easily differentiated from each other. This&#xA;  includes, but is not limited to, knowing the order spells were cast,&#xA;  the order that face-down permanents entered the battlefield, which&#xA;  creature attacked last turn, and any other differences between&#xA;  face-down spells or permanents. Common methods for distinguishing&#xA;  between face-down objects include using counters or dice to mark the&#xA;  different objects, or clearly placing those objects in order on the&#xA;  table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could probably argue that since the list of differences isn't limiting, ownership of a card would be something that would differentiate the cards from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-01-27T17:48:31.327" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T17:48:31.327" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22729" CreationDate="2015-01-27T17:07:07.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple prices of software that do this. A good list is available at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/991506/resources-card-game-makers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/991506/resources-card-game-makers&lt;/a&gt; but rather than repeat those I'll say that beyond using something like illustrator and drafting you're own one by one looking up custom card makers for whichever game had the closet format to yours and creating your own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="919" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T17:07:07.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22717" CreationDate="2015-01-27T17:20:47.980" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope - they just only had room on the board for four. You can play as many deeds as you can pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See page 19 of the rulebook, where they show a deed potentially being played 3 to the right of the Home, where there is no printed spot on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastEditorUserId="11666" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T19:26:27.850" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T19:26:27.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22734" CreationDate="2015-01-27T17:42:13.020" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling in question is an official ruling on the workings of the card on the official Magic website. Like any ruling, it &lt;strong&gt;clarifies&lt;/strong&gt; the rules with regards to a particular interaction. In this particular case, the rule regarding free information says &amp;quot;Free information includes:&amp;quot; followed by a list of information. The ruling quoted in the question says that free information &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; includes the owner of any object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 108&lt;/a&gt; defines what a card is, and rule 108.3 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;owner&lt;/em&gt; of a card in the game is the player who started the game with it in his or her deck. If a card is brought into the game from outside the game rather than starting in a player's deck, its owner is the player who brought it into the game. If a card starts the game in the command zone, its owner is the player who put it into the command zone to start the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would argue that this means that &amp;quot;ownership&amp;quot; is a fundamental property of a card, and that each card's owner must be known at all times. That implies that you must make it clear which player owns which card in both situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another data point, the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conjured%20Currency&quot;&gt;Conjured Currency&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, you may exchange control of Conjured Currency and target permanent you neither &lt;strong&gt;own&lt;/strong&gt; nor control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card does not work unless ownership is public information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T18:57:58.720" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T18:57:58.720" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22726" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:14:21.823" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mark_Rosewater&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater&lt;/a&gt; wrote a very interesting article a while back called, &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/twenty-things-were-going-kill-magic-2013-08-01&quot;&gt;20 things that were going to kill Magic the Gathering&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the first thing that was going to kill magic at the time.  Here's all he states in that article, but it's the best I can find to answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;R&amp;amp;D realized that the rules were a problem, so they introduced two&#xA;  changes. First, the minimum for Constructed decks was changed from&#xA;  forty to sixty. It remained at forty for Limited formats. Second,&#xA;  every card but basic lands was limited to no more than four copies.&#xA;  Four was chosen because it allowed some consistency for deck building&#xA;  but wasn't too much to ensure that the card would always be drawn&#xA;  every game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second item that was going to kill magic, was the addition of the banned/restricted list.  The first line of that discussion reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The four-of card limits and the increase in deck size helped, but it&#xA;  didn't stop the degeneracy...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's pretty clear, that 60 was introduced to limit the &quot;degeneracy&quot; of decks.  If you've ever tried to take your favorite 60 card deck, and squeeze it down to 40 cards, you realize that it's &lt;em&gt;significantly&lt;/em&gt; faster at 40 than at 60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="855" LastEditDate="2016-05-12T03:33:31.557" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T03:33:31.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22734" CreationDate="2015-01-27T20:29:29.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner of a permanent is free information, by desleeving a card you are intentionally trying to obscure that fact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally nothing in the tournament rules allows you to desleeve your opponents cards, which are their property and you are only allowed to manipulate them while following the rules of magic (which don't mention sleeves and therefore do not affect them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T20:29:29.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14750" CreationDate="2015-01-27T22:07:25.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7487/is-kingmaking-in-multiplayer-games-a-problem-that-can-be-fixed&quot;&gt;&quot;kingmaking&quot;&lt;/a&gt; is a feature of a number of board games, including Setters of Catan. More to the point, it is an important concept in &quot;real life.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, even if you are losing, and have no chance win, the determination of the actual winner often does matter, especially after the game/election/whatever ends. One winner will be greatly preferred to another (at least by the &quot;loser&quot;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps players can &quot;formalize&quot; this by having &quot;house rules&quot; that give &quot;second prize&quot; or something to the &quot;kingmaker. In &quot;Diplomacy,&quot; for instance, the winner needs to have 18 (out of 34) supply centers, but one version of house rules says that any group of three or fewer (a minority of seven) can declare themselves &quot;co-winners&quot; by reaching 18. One player with two supply centers managed to be included in a &quot;winner's circle&quot; with two other players totalling 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when they don't get first prize, playing kingmaker is an important skill (and play &quot;with&quot; a kingmaker an equally important one). One real life &quot;kingmaker&quot; game was the 1824 Presidential election, where John Quincy Adams and Andrew Jackson were the front runners, with Daniel Webster and Henry Clay running far behind. Clay threw his support behind Adams (enabling him to surpass Jackson) and was rewarded with the Secretary of State.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T02:05:00.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4512" CreationDate="2015-01-27T22:18:30.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A solid rule of thumb people throw around is to keep the hand if it gives you a &lt;strong&gt;plan of action&lt;/strong&gt;. Do you have something decent to do in the first few turns even if you don't draw what you need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond this, a good mulligan decision depends on the particular characteristics of your deck. You have to understand what cards you're likely to draw, what your mana curve is, how well it performs with a smaller starting hand, how important tempo is in the first few turns, how important it is to make all your land drops... etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I regularly play a couple of different (casual) decks. One is a green ramp deck, where I am often happy to keep a hand with just two lands or one land and some mana acceleration because I'm very likely to draw more mana and have very few spells that cost more than 4. On the other hand, I might mulligan an otherwise healthy hand with 3 or 4 lands but no acceleration, because getting to 3 mana on turn 2 can give me a &lt;em&gt;large&lt;/em&gt; tempo advantage. This is very different from my other blue/red deck which has less acceleration and a steeper curve: making at least the first three land drops is critical, so I'd generally mulligan a hand with less than three lands, but worry less about tempo in the first few turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from your own deck, you should consider everything you know about your opponent's deck. If you're facing an aggro deck with lots of burn and cheap, fast creatures, an early blocker they can't deal with could be worth more than any other spell in your deck—and you may not have many turns to draw it if it's not in your hand. But against a control deck, that same efficient blocker could be almost worthless, effectively a dead card in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dead cards are something you should definitely pay attention to: inevitably, against certain other decks, some of the cards you're playing will be worth a lot less than others. But if you have six good cards and one dead card, mulliganing won't gain you anything, since you'd be going down to six cards anyhow! I'm often tempted to mulligan if I draw two of the same legend or planeswalker, but that's often not the best choice. (And, of course, redundant cards like this can still be useful to mitigate disruption like targeted discard, counterspells and removal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from all this general theoretical analysis, you should also just play your deck a whole bunch of times to develop an intuition for which hands are good when. This will also help you identify weird edge case like hands which are perfect... as long as the opponent doesn't have a turn-one lightning bolt or thoughtseize. (My green deck is particularly vulnerable to this when I keep hands with a single land and a mana dork.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11669" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T22:18:30.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22667" CreationDate="2015-01-27T22:25:54.227" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that it is possible for Troll to actually play a strong game, however, there is a fundamental issue with seeing that one could win with &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; the trolls or dwarves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, Thud! is an asymmetrical game--and in actuality a complete game comprises of what more closely resembles a &quot;match&quot;--a player plays one game as as each and the remaining value of the pieces are summed to determine the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, if you find your games really only feel like loss-minimizing--and lack strategy--the same applies to your opponent on his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't a lot of openly available games downloadable for analysis for Thud! as it is rather unpopular, but I'm basing this on my own personal play vs a computer opponent that I myself have designed: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/hexparrot/thudgame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thudgame on github&lt;/a&gt;. While the AI itself isn't an infalliable player, you might find that the Troll AI can often be quite threatening and I believe there's much that can be learned from it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there's not much depth to the openings (the board is symmetrical).  Some common openings I see the Trolls winning with are pretty much one of these two moves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/88wmZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not always the same trolls, but you choose your attack vector based on the initial dwarf move (whether you want to hit the dwarf-swarm or the side dwarves are neglecting).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a system in how well you can get a single troll to defeat far more than his own value (5 dwarfs per troll is winning), but I have a hard time generalizing it. Give the bot a shot and I think you'll see some winning patterns emerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastActivityDate="2015-01-27T22:25:54.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22747" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22833" CreationDate="2015-01-27T23:54:01.450" Score="1" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Hannibal_Necromancer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hannibal Necromancer&lt;/a&gt; on the field with 1 spell counter. It is my opponent's turn, and he activated the (previously-set) trap &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Horn_of_the_Phantom_Beast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Horn of the Phantom Beast&lt;/a&gt;. Can I remove the spell counter from Hannibal Necromancer to target and destroy Horn of the Phantom Beast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11671" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T15:00:38.553" Title="Can I use Hannibal Necromancer's effect to destroy a trap card my opponent just activated?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22734" CreationDate="2015-01-28T00:55:23.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer to the first question is no and two reasons as to why it is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the MAGIC: THE GATHERING® TOURNAMENT RULES&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;section 3.3 Authorized Cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may use cards from the Alpha printing only if the deck is in opaque sleeves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the card that was manifested is an Alpha card (or other card with a distinct backing) then it would be in violation of that rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;section 3.9 Card Shuffling&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The opponent may then shuffle it additionally. &#xA;  Cards and sleeves must not be in danger of being damaged during this process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a rule about not damaging opponent's cards during the shuffling processing then it would be no difference about damaging them during play and when removing card from a sleeve the chance of it being damaged is increased and it is possible to break the sleeve when removing the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the second question there is no question that the color of the card sleeve is public knowledge and while I don't have a rule to back it up I am sure it wouldn't be legal to deny someone public knowledge because of a disability such as color blindness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to look at the second question is if a player who has no knowledge of what has happened walks up to observe and is able to rapidly determine which card belongs to which player then it is not knowledge that can be hidden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T23:38:27.497" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T23:38:27.497" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14750" CreationDate="2015-01-28T02:13:43.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a house rule or &amp;quot;meta&amp;quot; you need to decide between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the &amp;quot;loser&amp;quot; will play for 2nd place, 3rd place, and so on, if they believe they can't win. If all else fails, they will try to get the most points they can. (Technically this is probabilistic: better to take slim odds for first than settle for a guaranteed second.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;kingmaking is allowed, which gives the game a more cutthroat flavor. But you need to be honest about this and accept it and the competitive feeling that comes with it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan encourages kingmaking and headbutting. Almost every action can be interfered with negatively by another player. Even playing the &amp;quot;gentle&amp;quot; way it still feels more competitive than other competitive games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is tiring, there's zillions of other board games that are alike in theming, complexity, analysis, game length, etc., but have the players compete in parallel most of the time with less opportunities to directly interfere. Don't &amp;quot;fix&amp;quot; Settlers. The problem is fixed by diversifying the games you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3619" LastEditorUserId="3619" LastEditDate="2021-03-22T05:28:03.927" LastActivityDate="2021-03-22T05:28:03.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22751" CreationDate="2015-01-28T06:12:11.233" Score="1" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently playing a game of crazy. We had a dispute over the rules I said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A 2 means that you have to pick up two more cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Jack means that you skip town&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends disagree. So I was wondering if I was correct it was or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11673" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T04:35:50.807" LastActivityDate="2019-07-05T04:35:50.807" Title="Crazy 8s rules question" Tags="|crazy8s|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22750" CreationDate="2015-01-28T06:43:45.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found some &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/eights/crazy8s.html&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;. They agree on the 2, but disagree on the Jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with these games, is that there are a lot of house rules. So there is a high probability that there are some differences in the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to avoid problems is to discuss and fix the rules before play. So you can focus on the fun part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T06:43:45.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22752" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-28T06:50:33.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A card game where players take turns. If they have a card matching either suit or value of the top of the discard pile, they can play else they must get a card from the stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Objective is to be the first without cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards have additional effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 can be used to change the suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 next player take two cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of house rules for this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T16:44:28.430" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T16:44:28.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22753" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-28T06:50:33.650" Score="0" Body="Card game with the object to be the first to lose all cards." OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T15:21:07.200" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T15:21:07.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22773" CreationDate="2015-01-28T08:11:16.160" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the unit with the &lt;em&gt;heroic leader&lt;/em&gt; dies but no star is rolled, does the enemy still get one victory medal for the destroyed infantry unit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/content/cards_compendium/?id=action_8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Action Cards 8 - Heroic Leader&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="660" LastEditorUserId="660" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T14:59:58.770" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T22:52:30.090" Title="Heroic leader after his unit is eliminated" Tags="|memoir-44|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22717" CreationDate="2015-01-28T11:17:58.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Steven Holder is correct. In Town Deeds can be played at either end of your street. DTR is a card game, the board has some useful information for new players, but the image of where to put your In Town Deeds is just a guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook states:&#xA;&quot;Unless they say otherwise, all deeds are in town. Place an in-town deed at one end of your street or the other, adjacent to the in-town location on that end of your street.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I don't have enough rep, or I would have just commented on his answer)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9812" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T11:17:58.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T11:29:31.310" Score="1" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just tried a fight that ended up this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tahQt.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the black stones be killed? It's whites move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First, let's assume that white's chain is safe&lt;/strong&gt; and look at it as tsumego. I tried several sequences but it seems that black is dead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/up9df.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/p2Ij0.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, is this fight naive or realistic? I was just trying to cope with black invasion stone at F3 and tried to seal it. Maybe there is a better approach how to treat it? Let him live peacefully and just build wall on the 4th line?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfeLU.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2g5U.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QsUBG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:31:30.067" Title="Fight - can black stones be killed?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22756" CreationDate="2015-01-28T13:55:38.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, this kind of fight is going to get you into trouble - you have a bunch of separate groups to take care of.  If your strategy before Black's invasion was sound, then you should be able to get a useful wall out of the invasion.  In that case, it's generally better to just keep extending along the fourth line.  So, instead of 20, I would just extend.  Black gets two points/move, and you're getting thickness that's worth more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first diagram, if 39 is at 40, then isn't Black alive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T13:55:38.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22759" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-28T14:50:20.547" Score="4" ViewCount="2291" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for an opening database (also called game explorer) for 9x9 Go, showing in every position the percentage of times each move is played and also possibly the percentage of times each move leads to a win for Black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The database must only include games played by professionals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just like the following database, but for 9x9 instead of 19x19: &lt;a href=&quot;http://ps.waltheri.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ps.waltheri.net/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if there are not a lot of games in the database. Even a hundred games would be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I found one! Here it is: &lt;a href=&quot;https://online-go.com/puzzle/181&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://online-go.com/puzzle/181&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But I would still be interested in other databases. So if somebody else finds another 9x9 database, with at least as much games (361) as the previous one, please do give me its link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10385" LastEditorUserId="10385" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T21:56:59.923" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T22:06:51.227" Title="Where can I find an opening database of professional games for 9x9 Go?" Tags="|go|openings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22734" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:05:20.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the question &lt;strong&gt;Is there any point in time at which someone can not identify which cards they own?&lt;/strong&gt; The problem with words is that they need definitions. So let us be very clear about two different definitions of the same word that are tricking us up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time: the indefinite continued progress of existence and events in the past, present, and future regarded as a whole. Typically measured in seconds, minutes, or hours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clearly, a &amp;quot;point in time&amp;quot; is therefore defined as the instant in time corresponding to some measurement. For example, January 25, 2015 AD 10:45:12.134 AM or something like that. But I would like to propose an alternative definition of time: instead of measuring it in minutes, we measure it in terms of the game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It takes seconds or minutes to shuffle a deck, but in terms of the game state it is an instantaneous action. So if players did not use sleeves, or used the same sleeves, there may indeed be few seconds where it was unknown which card a player owned. I suppose you could Act of Treason another Jeskai Infiltrator, and you both use the same sleeves, and they're both in mint condition. But realistically, a simple inspection of the cards will quickly reveal ownership regardless of what sleeves there are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it is an instantaneous game action, there is no point &lt;em&gt;in the game&lt;/em&gt; where a player cannot readily identify what cards are owned by what players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let us focus on the questions being asked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Anthony desleeve both manifested cards, or otherwise manipulate them so that they cannot be differentiated?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Answer: cards may be desleeved with the owner's permission, but they must be able to be identified by all players who the owner is. So if you want to desleeve for purposes of obfuscating the owner, that would not be okay. If you desleeve for some other reason (I don't know what) I suppose it's no different than any other time. (Maybe you're alergic to Ultra Pro sleeves or something?) But if you remove that differentiating factor, you must provide some other differentiating factor.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the cards are not sleeved to begin with, or Nathan is colorblind, so that Nathan is unable to differentiate between the two face down cards. Is Anthony obligated to tell Nathan which card is the card that he owns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is appears to be up in the air, but I assure you it is not. The tournament rules specifically state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player is ever unable or unwilling to provide free information to an opponent that has requested it, he or she should call a judge and explain the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While ownership of the card is not explicitly listed as free information, the definition of free information is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;information to which all players are entitled access without contamination or omissions made by their opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I believe it is clear that &amp;quot;public&amp;quot; information means &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; information. I cannot imagine any definition otherwise. And as we know, ownership of a card is &amp;quot;public&amp;quot; information. The only logical conclusion is that it is a form of &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; information that the guide simply has not provided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, we know it cannot be private information, because that public is the opposite of private and that would just be absolutely silly, and that would make the only other alternative derived information. This is defined as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Information to which all players are entitled access, but opponents are not obliged to assist in determining and may require some skill or calculation to determine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the shuffling should have randomized the cards, you have no actual way of knowing by simply calculating and inspecting the visible game state which card is yours. (Especially if you do the unsleeving, or you don't play with sleeves, or you play with identical sleeves.) Derived information, by definition, can be calculated without the assistance of your opponent and merely by inspection of the game state. So this information (ownership) does not meet the qualifications of derived information. If it is not derived or private, it must be free. It's the only type of information that meets all the criteria, and is in line with the Fate Reforged FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further evidence, which has that &amp;quot;Because Tabak said so&amp;quot;, is taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://tabakrules.tumblr.com/post/109428851154/jeskai-infiltrators-release-notes-state-a-cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jeskai Infiltrator's release notes state &amp;quot;A card's owner is public information at all times.&amp;quot; Is public information in this context the same as &amp;quot;Free Information&amp;quot; as described in MTG-TR 4.1 Player Communication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the ever snarky answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, why not? If, for some reason, you’re trying to split hairs here, stop. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while we're not trying to split hairs (but rather, trying to make sure that other's &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; try to split hairs) it's pretty clear that he means to include card ownership in Free Information and just apparently never bothered to update the TR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Answer: if you are unwilling to give your opponent the ownership information of the cards exiled by Jeskai Infiltrator, you should immediately call a judge and explain the situation.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T23:09:29.603" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21196" CreationDate="2015-01-28T16:36:39.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We use the 'monster storage boxes' that hold 5000+ cards, and store them in IKEA Expedit shelving units (now called Kallax units). Our collection is 70,000+ cards at the moment, and we have multiple monster boxes for each color, sorted alphabetically. We originally had cards sorted alphabetically within sets, but that became too tedious so we took the set sort out. The most important tool for a collection this large is an inventory, we use deckbox.org and have been very pleased with the system and its recent improvements and updates. Plus, it's free and online, therefore is accessible from our phones or iPads anywhere. Others can view our collection and propose trades, as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11677" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T16:36:39.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22762" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-28T18:46:08.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mystery of the Abbey&lt;/em&gt; is a mystery-themed board game involving monks attempting to solve a murder. All English language versions have been published by Days of Wonder since 2003, but versions in other languages have existed since 1995.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T19:26:20.717" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T19:26:20.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22763" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-28T18:46:08.547" Score="0" Body="A mystery-themed board game by Days of Wonder involving monks attempting to solve a murder" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T07:11:42.627" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:11:42.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22764" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-28T19:01:05.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Arcadia Quest&lt;/em&gt; is a fantasy miniatures game involving slaying the vampire lord and becoming the ruling guild of Arcadia. It was originally &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/coolminiornot/arcadia-quest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;funded by Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt; and released in 2014. The English language version was published by Cool Mini Or Not and Spaghetti Western Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T19:44:43.430" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T19:44:43.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22765" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-28T19:01:05.037" Score="0" Body="A fantasy miniatures game involving slaying the vampire lord and becoming the ruling guild of Arcadia" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T07:11:55.707" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:11:55.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21196" CreationDate="2015-01-28T19:17:50.400" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;more than 10k cards&lt;/strong&gt;, a Card Catalog:&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y0Px2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Card Catalog&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find them on CraigsList, eBay, antique stores ($$$) and occasional garage sales. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my catalog I have one drawer per block. Separated in the drawer by set. In each set they are sorted with Rares &amp;amp; mythics in the front, as I have a lot less of those. I buy sets of commons &amp;amp; uncommons for each set from eBay, so those follow the rares, sorted by color then alpha, which ends up being in collector number order. Some more valuable/more frequently used cards get their own drawer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;2k-10k cards&lt;/strong&gt; I'd stick with 1600, 4000 or 5000 count boxes, depending on which you can comfortably lift &amp;amp; fit on your shelves. You should label the boxes with sticky notes, not by writing on the boxes, as your collection will grow. Initially you should find a divider to use in each row that will hold up the cards, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bcwsupplies.com/cat/trading-card/card-accessories/card-box-monster-pads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;. Better dividers exist that clamp on to the cardboard, but I cannot find a link to them right now (they may be discontinued).&#xA; At this size I would sort by set first, since some of your cards will probably have rotated out of standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;strong&gt;less than 2k cards&lt;/strong&gt; I would use binders &amp;amp; deckboxes. There are some fancy ones that have 4 cards to a row instead of the traditional 3 &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.massdrop.com/buy/deck-tutor-four-card-album?mode=guest_open&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. They are not cheap, but the reviews are decent. Otherwise I would buy a few &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&amp;amp;ion=1&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;ie=UTF-8#q=magic%20card%20binder&amp;amp;tbm=shop&amp;amp;spd=818660237010079930&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Card Binders&lt;/a&gt; and Ultra-Pro pages. (buy them a box at a time to save $).&#xA;I would probably sort them by color then card type, as you are likely to want to look them up that way (unless you build your decks in a computer, see below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buy these supplies at your Local Game Store if you can!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For any size collection, if you think it's eventually going to grow large, &#xA;track it in software!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Studio&lt;/a&gt; ($20), which is a very full-featured windows desktop application. Upsides: it's very easy to do a bulk-add of cards, like 4x of a set, it's very fast to search for cads (just start typing the name). Downsides: doesn't get updates for new sets very quickly and uses non-standard set names, lacking most foreign cards. I am thinking of switching to &lt;a href=&quot;http://deckbox.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deckbox.org&lt;/a&gt;- Downsides: no easy way to add 4x of a given sets commons/uncommons in one action, requires internet access. Upsides: online access, facilitate very easy online trading, if that interests you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an open source tool that I am considering moving to, &lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/projects/mtgbrowser/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Assistant&lt;/a&gt;, which gets its updates straight from gatherer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal is for it to be easy for you to find cards in the future, and to file new ones. If either are difficult then you need to change something. You may need to change your approach over time- I moved mine from alpha by block to alpha by set when I computerized my tracking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an inbox that all cards go into before they get filed. They sit there until I put them in the computer system. Then they go to a 'to be filed' drawer. Once that drawer reaches a critical mass, I sort it by block &amp;amp; set, then put away each set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="5912" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T19:44:17.867" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T19:44:17.867" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22767" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:24:38.533" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-28T21:24:38.533" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T21:24:38.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22768" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:24:38.533" Score="0" Body="Two to four player kids version to the popular Settlers of Catan board game." OwnerUserId="8340" LastEditorUserId="8340" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T07:11:50.843" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:11:50.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22769" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:34:43.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Robot Turtles&lt;/em&gt; is a children's board game where players give orders to turtles, teaching fundamentals of programming. It was funded through &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/danshapiro/robot-turtles-the-board-game-for-little-programmer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Kickstarter drive&lt;/a&gt; and released in 2013, first published by the owner and then by ThinkFun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T07:11:40.250" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:11:40.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22770" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-28T21:34:43.520" Score="0" Body="A children's board game where players give orders to turtles, teaching fundamentals of programming" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T07:11:46.123" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T07:11:46.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2015-01-28T22:09:23.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game seems a bit too easy both before and after the Elder God awakens.  My two house rules to solve this are as followings...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At Midnight, roll one green die for each monster in play and each terror result adds a doom token. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once the Elder God is awakened, his &quot;Midnight&quot; effect happens at both 6 and 12 o'clock.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I stole these ideas from another site's post and modified them slightly, but they seem to work well to up the difficulty and actually shorten the game in the case that you lose.  Of course if you think this is too hard, then go with rolling 1 die for every 2 monsters in play for number 1 above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11679" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T22:09:23.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22754" CreationDate="2015-01-28T22:52:30.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes! Both the infantry unit just eliminated &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; the Heroic Leader are worth a Victory Medal, as the only meaningful interpretation of the bullet point on the card itself (my emphasis):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When infantry unit with a heroic leader is eliminated, roll two Battle&#xA;  dice; if at least 1 star is rolled, &lt;strong&gt;leader is lost and counts as a&#xA;  Victory Medal&lt;/strong&gt;; if heroic leader survives, move him to nearest friendly&#xA;  infantry unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no mention of the destroyed infantry unit &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; counting as a Victory medal, so that must be taken as unchanged from the standard rule. Clearly then the destruction of the heroic leader, either through a star being rolled or &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/content/cards_compendium/?id=action_8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;through there not being a friendly infantry unit to relocate to&lt;/a&gt;, counts as an additional Victory medal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-01-28T22:52:30.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22775" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-29T19:10:01.293" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T19:10:01.293" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T19:10:01.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22776" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-29T19:10:01.293" Score="0" Body="For games when played by two players.  Particularly for games normally played by more than two." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-01-29T20:46:44.897" LastActivityDate="2015-01-29T20:46:44.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2015-01-29T19:55:41.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultra-Pro has released &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultrapro.com/product_info.php?products_id=3115&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a product for cube storage&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBTfp.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yBTfp.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ultra-Pro MOX CUB3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The MOX CUB3™, designed for Cubing, features a unique 2-level storage&#xA;  design. Holds 900 standard double-sleeved gaming cards in Ultra•PRO&#xA;  PRO-Fit &amp;amp; Deck Protector sleeves. Compartment for dice, stones and&#xA;  other accessories. Secure magnetic closure. 8½” x 8½” x 8½” (215.9mm x&#xA;  215.9mm x 215.9mm).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastEditorUserId="8113" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T03:38:59.467" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T03:38:59.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23130" CreationDate="2015-01-29T20:51:24.457" Score="6" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game Two Rooms and a Boom, the leader of a room is the first person to be nominated by another player.  What happens if no one has done this in a room by the end of round one and the room has no leader?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T02:23:17.090" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T02:23:17.090" Title="No leader at end of round 1" Tags="|two-rooms-and-a-boom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22779" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22784" CreationDate="2015-01-29T22:38:13.333" Score="4" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of Xcom: The Board Game, a crisis card came up that said we needed to destroy two interceptors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I destroy the interceptors from the reserves or do they need to be destroyed from the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that I am &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; referring to the recruitment pool of units&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T14:16:32.053" Title="Destroying units due to a crisis card" Tags="|xcom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22780" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-29T22:41:26.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;XCOM: The Board Game is a cooperative board game of global defense for one to four players.&#xA;Placed in command of the elite military organization known as XCOM, you and your friends must find some means to turn back an escalating alien invasion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As UFOs appear in orbit and worldwide panic threatens to undermine national governments, the game’s free companion app and its push-your-luck dice rolling mechanics immerse you deep in the tension and uncertainty of a desperate war against an unknown foe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Developed by Fantasy Flight Games and released in early 2015, the game introduces the new concept of having a 'companion' app that dictates the flow of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another unique mechanic is the concept of only have a certain amount of time to make decisions before the game state progresses, imbuing a feeling of panic amongst players as they no longer have the leisure of time to decide what the most optimal course of action might be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T15:50:04.707" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T15:50:04.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22781" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-29T22:41:26.587" Score="0" Body="XCOM: The Board Game is a cooperative board game of global defense for one to four players.&#xD;&#xA;Placed in command of the elite military organization known as XCOM, you and your friends must find some means to turn back an escalating alien invasion. " OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T15:50:07.600" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T15:50:07.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-30T03:55:04.940" Score="4" ViewCount="400" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a trainer card states that it removes 60 points of damage, can you use it to remove 50 points or less of damage?  I have one card that says up to 30 points of damage, so I know I can use it to remove 10, 20, or 30, but this card states 60 and does not use the words &quot;up to&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T05:00:19.463" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:54:43.093" Title="If I use a trainer card that removes damage, can I remove less than that amount of damage?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22785" CreationDate="2015-01-30T08:32:30.107" Score="3" ViewCount="3295" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing Haunt 21 and I was the zombie lord. My friend had the Ring and the Medallion and decided to use the Ring to attack me with Sanity. Would the zombie lord take damage or be stunned from the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We decided to just make it take damage but I wasn't aware that they could just kill the zombie lord in order to win. It was a close game regardless but it would be nice for some clarification. (The difference in Sanity was their 7 to my 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11695" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T18:30:18.973" Title="Does the zombie lord from haunt 21 take damage from a sanity roll?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22779" CreationDate="2015-01-30T14:16:32.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither the FAQ nor the rules seem to address this directly, but lacking a specific ruling I would say that you can lose them from either reserves or the board.  If they had specifically wanted you to lose ones from the board, the card would've said so (like the one that says that you lose a soldier on the mission, rather than just saying lose a soldier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T14:16:32.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22783" CreationDate="2015-01-30T15:38:00.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it would take damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you cannot damage a monster unless the specific rules for the haunt say otherwise). Under the normal rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a monster suffers&#xA;  any damage, it is stunned and misses its next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the Haunt 21 rules makes an exception to this, it says that while holding the Medallion, you can damage the Zombie Lord. It does not specify anything about physical vs mental damage; so it will just be damage either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the traitor's rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Zombie Lord can be damaged only by&#xA;  an explorer holding the Medallion. Instead&#xA;  of being stunned, you can take 7 points of&#xA;  damage before you are killed. Use the&#xA;  Turn/Damage Track to record damage.&#xA;  Damage does not reduce your traits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T20:01:29.137" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T20:01:29.137" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22786" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22807" CreationDate="2015-01-30T16:25:45.783" Score="2" ViewCount="1241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yahtzee (aka &quot;Nokia Dice&quot;) has the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim of the game is to score a maximum number of points. There are 13 hands on which you can get points, as well as a bonus. 5 dice are used in this game. Order of play for each hand is as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll all 5 dice. You can keep any number of dice (0 to 5) and discard the rest. If you keep all the dice, omit roll 2 and 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll all the discarded dice. You can keep all 5 dice with you or discard any of them (just rolled, or pre-kept). If you keep all the dice, omit roll 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roll all the remaining dice. You must take all the final 5 dice. You may not need all of them for scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 13 combinations for scoring. You must select a single combination for each hand. If you select a combination that you do not have, you get zero points for that hand. Once a combination is selected, it may not be selected again. A hand has no order, it does not matter which dice was acquired on which roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combinations&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) 1s - Take the sum of all the 1s in your final hand (other dice are ignored)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;b) 2s - Take the sum of all the 2s in your final hand (other dice are ignored)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;c) 3s - Take the sum of all the 3s in your final hand (other dice are ignored)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;d) 4s - Take the sum of all the 4s in your final hand (other dice are ignored)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;e) 5s - Take the sum of all the 5s in your final hand (other dice are ignored)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;f) 6s - Take the sum of all the 6s in your final hand (other dice are ignored)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;g) 3x - If you have a same dice thrice (or more), take the sum of all 5 dice&lt;br&gt;&#xA;h) 4x - If you have a same dice four times (or more), take the sum of all 5 dice&lt;br&gt;&#xA;i) 2+3 - If you have a full house - 3 of one number and 2 of the other, take a fixed score of 25, irrespective of the numbers used&lt;br&gt;&#xA;j) Mini straight - If you have 1234 or 2345 or 3456, as 4 of the 5 dice, take a fixed score of 30&lt;br&gt;&#xA;k) Full straight - If you have 12345 or 23456, take a fixed score of 40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;l) Jackpot - If all your 5 dice are the same, take a fixed score of 50&lt;br&gt;&#xA;m) Chance - Take the sum of all the dice, irrespective of what they are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the sum of points obtained from options a) to f) (over 6 different hands) exceeds 64, collect a bonus of 35 points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know how to calculate the probability of a combination occurring at any scenario. What confuses me is which combinations to take early in the game, and which ones later. Should I take big ones right at the beginning, or save them for the end. To what extent should 3x and 4x be preferred over the a) to f), due to the bonus, as well as possibility of greater 3x and 4x sums in the future. Any tips or algorithms would be helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T17:37:44.983" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T07:02:24.267" Title="Strategy for Yahtzee" Tags="|dice|yahtzee|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22787" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-01-30T19:38:20.957" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T19:38:20.957" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T19:38:20.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22788" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-01-30T19:38:20.957" Score="0" Body="Strategy game for two players, said to date from Roman times.  Played on a board of intersecting lines, players alternately place or move one of their nine men (counters) to complete rows of three." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-01-30T20:37:47.570" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T20:37:47.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22782" CreationDate="2015-01-30T20:33:10.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pokémon, there are some core rules. Two of them are relevant here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Do as much as you can&quot;&lt;/em&gt; -&gt; you can heal less than given amount of damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Every card played must have some effect&quot;&lt;/em&gt; -&gt; you can't heal zero damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8638" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T20:33:10.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22756" CreationDate="2015-01-30T21:11:30.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black is just hardly alive, as you can see from this diagram:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;$$Wm30&#xA;$$ |...OOXXXXXXOO......|&#xA;$$ |....12.6.435.......|&#xA;$$ |...................|&#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now white can play a big point elsewhere. White's position to the outer side look solid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When white comes back in the endgame, the result may look like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&#xA;$$Wm36&#xA;$$ |...OOXXXXXXOO......|&#xA;$$ |....OX.X.XOO.......|&#xA;$$ |.....21534.........|&#xA;$$ --------------------&#xA;$$&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and black lives in a seki with 0 points of area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T16:31:30.067" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:31:30.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-01-30T21:42:46.087" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a mistake is made in a Pokemon game, and neither player catches it, does the player who failed to do the correct action lose the game, or is the game a draw, or do you continue to play the game since the mistake was overlook. Example: A coin was suppose to be toss and if tails the Pokemon could not attack. I failed to (overlook) the toss, several turns later I realize my mistake. This mistake may have put me ahead in the game (if the toss had been tails.) I forfeited the game and later try to look up an official rule on this to no avail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11692" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T22:15:27.580" Title="Failure to take a call for step in Pokemon" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22791" CreationDate="2015-01-30T21:57:11.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://assets.pokemon.com//assets/cms2/pdf/play-pokemon/rules/play-pokemon-tcg-penalty-guidelines-10232019-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Play! Pokemon Penalty Guidelines&lt;/a&gt; it depends on the severity of the mistake made, and the Tier in which you are playing. It can range from a Caution all the way up to a Game Loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you example it would probably be a Game-Play Error - Major for &quot;Using an Ability when a card prevents its use&quot;. For this error in a Tier 1 match you would get a Warning, in a Tier 2 your opponent has to take two fewer prize cards. In either case your opponent would get a Caution for failing to maintain game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="24175" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T17:51:42.523" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T17:51:42.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22791" CreationDate="2015-01-30T21:57:27.023" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends whether you are playing casually or in an official tournament. For tournaments, it also depends on its type - beginner-friendly &lt;em&gt;Tier&amp;nbsp;1&lt;/em&gt; tournaments like League Challenges are different to &lt;em&gt;Tier&amp;nbsp;2&lt;/em&gt; tournaments where players are expected to abide by the rules all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In casual play, both players have to agree on the resolution of the game state, i.e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ignore the mistake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;try to rewind the game state to the point before the mistake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the opposing player draws a Prize card (or more of them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;player who made the mistake loses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In tournaments, everything depends on the official &lt;em&gt;judge&lt;/em&gt; (or more of them) - they are the only ones who can rule the resolution of the game state. In addition to possible resolutions above, they can also give a Caution or a Warning to one or both players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main document for judges is &lt;strong&gt;Pokémon TCG Penalty Guidelines&lt;/strong&gt;, available from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pokemon.com/us/play-pokemon/about/tournaments-rules-and-resources/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules &amp;amp; Resources&lt;/a&gt; page of official website.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A coin was suppose to be toss and if tails the Pokemon could not attack. I failed to (overlook) the toss, several turns later I realize my mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;em&gt;Penalty Guidelines&lt;/em&gt; from October 2019, the actual resolution depends on &quot;rewindability&quot; and overall damage of the game state. Because several turns have passed, the problem would probably fall into &lt;em&gt;8.1.2. Gameplay Error - Major&lt;/em&gt;, but might also be closer to &lt;em&gt;8.1.3. Gameplay Error - Severe&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players are responsible for maintaining the game state. If the game state is irreversibly broken, the opponent might get a penalty for &lt;em&gt;8.1. Gameplay Error&lt;/em&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual penalties strongly depend on the particular situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8638" LastEditorUserId="8638" LastEditDate="2020-01-30T22:15:27.580" LastActivityDate="2020-01-30T22:15:27.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22584" CreationDate="2015-01-30T22:12:15.237" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am assuming 4th edition (Fantasy Flight Games) here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the two cases you laid out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are two Craft enemies on the same space, then according to the rules as written, their craft scores would be combined. The rules for Psychic Combat (combat using Craft) are literally Ctrl-C Ctrl-V the rules for Battles (combat using Strength), and then find-replace &quot;Strength&quot; with &quot;Craft&quot;. So, yes, that rule does apply for encountering two enemies that attack with Craft.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a Craft enemy and a Strength enemy are on the same space, both enemies are fought separately (one in Battle, one in Psychic Combat). The lower encounter number is fought first, then the other.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2015-01-30T22:12:15.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22796" CreationDate="2015-01-31T08:58:31.550" Score="9" ViewCount="19158" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if there is any card that gives +1/+1 counters to all creature I have on the field? I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krenko%2C%20Mob%20Boss&quot;&gt;Krenko, Mob Boss&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abzan%20Battle%20Priest&quot;&gt;Abzan Battle Priest&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Entity&quot;&gt;Mirror Entity&lt;/a&gt; so it would be awesome to have +1/+1 counters on all my goblins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11704" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T22:51:50.927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T22:51:50.927" Title="What cards give +1/+1 counters to all friendly creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22795" CreationDate="2015-01-31T09:07:50.793" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205957&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ajani Goldmane&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;'s -1 ability will give counters to all your creatures and also give them vigilance until end of turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;−1&lt;/strong&gt;: Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control. Those creatures gain vigilance until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383180&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ajani Steadfast&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;'s -2 ability will also give counters to all your creatures&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;−2&lt;/strong&gt;: Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control and a loyalty counter on each other planeswalker you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386464&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Abzan Ascendancy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; also gives +1/+1 counters to all creatures you have on the battlefield at that moment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Abzan Ascendancy enters the battlefield, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Archangel of Thune&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; will work awesome with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386466&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Abzan Battle Priest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;(the one you already have):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you gain life, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=97229&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Borborygmos&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; may also be used to get +1/+1 counters. And it's a big &lt;em&gt;6/7 Trample&lt;/em&gt; creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Borborygmos deals combat damage to a player, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cathars' Crusade&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; might actually be (one of the) best for your scenario. That card and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386339&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Krenko, Mob Boss&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;... I'm adding red to my Abzan deck!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271236&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Celestial Ancient&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can also give +1/+1 counters to all your creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an enchantment spell, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=46423&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Decree of Savagery&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for &lt;strong&gt;four +1/+1 counters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put four +1/+1 counters on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247234&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mikaeus, the Lunarch&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; a &lt;em&gt;Legendary Human Cleric&lt;/em&gt; that will only cost you 2 mana to get a +1/+1 counter on all your creatures(Mikaeus might die in process)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}, Remove a +1/+1 counter from Mikaeus: Put a +1/+1 counter on each other creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373592&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Phalanx Leader&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;em&gt;Heroic&lt;/em&gt; ability can also give all your creatures a +1/+1 counter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heroic — Whenever you cast a spell that targets Phalanx Leader, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376543&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tempt With Glory&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tempting offer — Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control. Each opponent may put a +1/+1 counter on each creature he or she controls. For each opponent who does, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=8819&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Titania's Boon&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/10440/mephy&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mephy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; pointed in his comment, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233242&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gavony Township&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; can also be used to give all your creatures a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;{2}{G}{W}, {T}&lt;/strong&gt;: Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T21:09:58.080" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14750" CreationDate="2015-01-31T13:54:43.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We solve this problem by keeping a running score. Individual games don't matter as much as the entire session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, consider a session of three players where player one has won three games, player two zero games, and player three one game. If I am player two and I become kingmaker, I would help player three. This is because if player one wins, he will have a 4-0 lead on me, while if player three wins, I will trail the leader by 3-0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kingmaking is part of the game, and it is inevitable in Settlers of Catan. Few people like to lose, and those who hate losing would prefer the winner to be the person they consider the least threat to their status.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="824" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T13:54:43.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22806" CreationDate="2015-01-31T18:42:49.953" Score="4" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to design my own cards, backside and frontside (on the frontside only the pictures for jack, queen, king, and ace). One of the biggest problems is that I only want two decks,  not thousands of them. It's a birthday gift for my girlfriend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where can I buy bridge cards that I can personalize and how much would it cost (including shipping to the Netherlands)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways to print a low quantity of customized cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11707" LastEditorUserId="11707" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T10:53:03.713" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T10:53:03.713" Title="Where can I buy a deck of personalized cards?" Tags="|playing-cards|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22808" CreationDate="2015-01-31T19:31:58.593" Score="1" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cultist description says that any regions adjacent to cuthullu (even due to special powers) are one cheaper. Now flying mat gives flying, which kinda allows treating any territory as adjacent (not sure about exect wording, played at friends). I would assume that attack using flying mat would get discount. Though everyone opposed that, I had to attack with normal cost. Still I wonder what other think? Rules are not terribly clear on this part, IMO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7808" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T06:20:40.983" Title="Cultists flying mat" Tags="|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23168" CreationDate="2015-01-31T21:26:49.657" Score="4" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to re-learn chess with the wonderful &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chesscademy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Chesscademy&lt;/a&gt; site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exercise asks me to &quot;make a move that will leave you up two points in total&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XndE4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Chesscademy exercise: material part 2 Sometimes it&amp;#39;s a bit difficult to say for certain who&amp;#39;s up in material. There may be a combination of pieces on the board, and we have to count the points of what&amp;#39;s available in order to compare material. For this exercise, make a move that will leave you up two points in total. Be careful not to make a move that will end up in you losing material! Stuck? Here&amp;#39;s a hint! Count the number of points on the board - is there a material difference in the starting position?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the hint suggests, I've counted up the number of points on the board - I make it 38 for white, 37 for black. (I'm playing white).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, clearly white needs to take 1 point of black's material in order to turn the 1 point lead into a 2 point lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moving &lt;em&gt;c4 x f7&lt;/em&gt;  - taking one black pawn - is the correct answer according to Chesscademy. But why isn't my initial answer of &lt;em&gt;f3 x e5&lt;/em&gt; - also taking one black pawn - also correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For what it's worth, both moves could subsequently result in the loss of a 3 point white piece in a real game, so it's not due to a difference here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11708" LastEditorUserId="11708" LastEditDate="2015-01-31T21:33:07.553" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T20:11:26.347" Title="Chesscademy exercise: material part 2 - why doesn't this move result in a 2 point material lead?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22804" CreationDate="2015-01-31T21:53:05.587" Score="2" ViewCount="1104" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you lose to the Shrieking Geek and fail to run away, the Bad Stuff that happens is described as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bad Stuff:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; You become a normal boring Human. Discard any Race or Class cards in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have both a race and a class, do I lose both or only one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11709" LastEditorUserId="2203" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T01:46:54.400" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:07:37.270" Title="Munchkin &quot;Shrieking Geek&quot; Bad Stuff" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22803" CreationDate="2015-01-31T23:26:31.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some room for interpretation here, due to ambiguities in the English language, but I would certainly interpret &quot;any Race or Class cards in play&quot; as equivalent to &quot;all Race and Class cards in play.&quot;  (Note that you can have several of each, using cards like Half-Breed or Super Munchkin.)  This also matches the first part of the text, which says that you &quot;become a normal boring Human&quot;; if you didn't discard your Race cards, you would not become Human, and, at least arguably, if you did not discard your Classes, you would not become normal and boring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were supposed to choose, it would most likely say something like &quot;at least one Race or Class card of your choice,&quot; or maybe &quot;either all Race or all Class cards in play.&quot;  But neither of those would really match the &quot;become a normal boring Human&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastActivityDate="2015-01-31T23:26:31.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22579" CreationDate="2015-02-01T01:56:07.523" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the description of units in the official Villages Wiki colorless/light units can fill in for any color. This includes being part of the Village founders. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red • Red • Light&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Light • Light • Red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However they (the light units) cannot form a village of their own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11711" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T01:56:07.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22806" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22799" CreationDate="2015-02-01T03:48:02.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had great &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/2349511/ikegami&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;experiences&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printerstudio.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Printer's Studio&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can have anything from a custom back on standard playing card fronts to completely custom fronts and backs that are different for each card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good interface for building these decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While the images you submit must have a bleed, the jobs I submitted were spot-on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No minimum order size (though you get discounts for buying in bulk).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't order without a coupon. You can always get a deal. At the very least, sign up for the mailing list to get $10 off, which will cover the shipping. (The best I've seen was early in the new year where they had a deal for 15% off and free shipping!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might be able to save a buck by going to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.printerstudio.ca/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Canadian portal&lt;/a&gt;. The prices of items are the same as the US portal, but the Canadian dollar is weaker. The company is based in Hong Kong.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you want cards that are perfectly flat, go for the linen instead of the standard. Both types are high quality. (I have no experience with their &quot;plastic&quot; cards.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T05:11:48.463" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T05:11:48.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22786" CreationDate="2015-02-01T04:10:21.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you've read the Wikipedia article, and followed some of those links.  If not, read it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yahtzee has been deeply studied by a few people.  The best known current techniques involve brute force computations over the entire state space.  The state space (the set of all possible games) can be structured to be small enough that every location can be computed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there is no simple answer to your question.  My suggestion to you, is to go to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www-set.win.tue.nl/~wstomv/misc/yahtzee/&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt;, and look at their deep simulation, and test yourself.  They have brute force addressed this problem and it's an interesting read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested and have a decent math background (undergraduate probability theory course, and an understanding of finite state space Markov Chains) you can read these papers:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.loyola.edu/~jglenn/research/optimal_yahtzee.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.cs.loyola.edu/~jglenn/research/optimal_yahtzee.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mimuw.edu.pl/~pan/papers/yahtzee.pdf&quot;&gt;http://www.mimuw.edu.pl/~pan/papers/yahtzee.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T04:10:21.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22800" CreationDate="2015-02-01T06:20:40.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a literal reading of the rules, I believe your friends were correct; you do not get the discount when attacking a non-adjacent space with Flying Doormat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cultist rule says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Conquer any region &lt;strong&gt;adjacent to the&#xA;  Great Ancient&lt;/strong&gt; (this includes any Region&#xA;  that may be adjacent as a result of any&#xA;  Racial, Special Power, Popular Place or Righteous&#xA;  Relic you may control) at 1 less Cultist token than&#xA;  usual. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Flying Doormat rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, the player whose troops control&#xA;  the Flying Doormat may conquer any Region,&#xA;  even one &lt;strong&gt;that is not adjacent&lt;/strong&gt; to his.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphases mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Flying Doormat does not make things actually adjacent, or treated as adjacent. Rather it allows you to conquer a space that is &quot;not adjacent.&quot; Compare this to the wording on The Great Brass Pipe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Regions of the same Terrain type as the one&#xA;  in which the Great Brass Pipe is discovered &lt;strong&gt;are&#xA;  considered adjacent&lt;/strong&gt;, for the player's whose&#xA;  Troops occupy that Region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Cultist's ability &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; work with the Great Brass Pipe, because those spaces are considered adjacent, but for the Flying Doormat, the spaces are not considered adjacent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree with you that the rules are a little confusing on this. Especially since the Cultist's rule states that Righteous Relics you control do apply, and yet there is no Righteous Relic in the game that makes non-adjacent spaces adjacent! This is definitely misleading; either Flying Doormat was intended to work differently than the way they worded it, or they just wrote the Cultist's rule without considering the full list of Righteous Relics that actually exist in the game. That rule also would allow for expansions to include new Righteous Relics that work with the Cultists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule book online: &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/su_rules_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://cdn0.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/su_rules_en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T06:20:40.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14069" CreationDate="2015-02-01T17:00:24.417" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where to start:&lt;/strong&gt;  I like to start in the hottest area so I can infect as many cities that are already infected with another color as soon as possible.  This way you get the infection deck working for you when a city infected with purple is drawn it's a double whammy.  I have found that to be the best tactic for exhausting the purple cube supply quickly.  The beauty is if they concentrate on fighting your purple disease the other ones inevitably bite them in the behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I avoid drawing and discarding:&lt;/strong&gt;  So far I draw often but rarely keep a big hand.  I do this because I want to be able to infect remotely as often as possible.  I generally play to exhaust the purple cubes asap(which has been unstoppable so far).  The exception is when I'm trying to destroy a research facility I might draw often to obtain that color.  Few things are more satisfying in this game than sabotaging a research facility the turn right before they plan on curing there.  Drawing as often as I do is making the infection discard pile larger and therefore decreasing the risk of outbreak post epidemic, however, I find it worth it when infect cities are drawn that already contain a purple cube.  It starts snowballing fast if you are consistently infecting locally and remotely.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another strategy I've contemplated is sitting far off from any other infected cities, continually infecting one city till it outbreaks, and daring the good guys to come after you.  This would avoid drawing cards and keep the infection pile small so as to maximize the chance of outbreak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I worry about being captured:&lt;/strong&gt;  The only time I really worry about this is when I'm intent on sabotaging a research facility and need a specific card I'm carrying.  Other than that I actually enjoy moving into a city with a player in it and infecting locally.  Make them use an action capturing you.  I do feel like the ease of escape is an imbalance in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How do the other roles affect tactics:&lt;/strong&gt;  The operation expert does affect my strategy when it comes to sabotage.  It's still worth it often times if his turn is far away and it delays a cure.  The other major one I see is the quarantine specialist.  She could really hamper the bt's infecting ability resulting in more of the cat and mouse game.  If the medic is in the mix I try and spread out the purple cubes as much as possible.  If they are concentrated it can be much easier for the medic to eradicate the disease, ending the game for the bt, especially if the dispatcher is in the game and moves the medic on his turn after the cure has been found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately even if you have poor strategy as the bt it still makes the game near impossible for the good guys, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone been able to win a game against the bio-terrorist?  I played a 3 player game, 2 good guys and 1 bio terrorist, and the bio terrorist was not very good at all strategy wise.  Still, it was pretty much impossible to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played another game last night with only 3 epidemic cards, 3 good guys, and me as the bio-terrorist.  The game was over relatively fast as I was able to spread my cubes out so much that they ran out of purple cubes thus ending the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have yet to try hand-picking the roles to assemble the anti bio-terrorist dream team.  But aside from that, I frankly don't see how victory is possible playing against a competent bio-terrorist.  Has anyone out there beat him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11714" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T17:00:24.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-01T19:35:13.217" Score="6" ViewCount="469" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand complete answers might not be public, but is there any public information on how major sites (like StarCityGames, TCGPlayer, Abu, etc), price their cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, since the prices fluctuate often and there are a huge number of cards, I assume there is some automation, so I'm interested in any algorithms they might be using. I'm looking for references or insider perspective, not just speculation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11716" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:34:52.230" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T17:04:10.140" Title="How do major online game stores set Magic: the Gathering card prices?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2015-02-06T19:01:51.197" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22811" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-01T20:59:26.447" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:59:26.447" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T20:59:26.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22812" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-01T20:59:26.447" Score="0" Body="Pantheon is a game in which player-heroes have to battle fallen gods for long-lost relics." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T20:59:26.447" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T20:59:26.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22813" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:03:17.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players buy up shops and department stores on London's High Street, and try to merge them in combinations that will bankrupt other players that are forced to &quot;shop&quot; there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:03:17.280" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T21:03:17.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22814" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:03:17.280" Score="0" Body="A monopoly-inspired game." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:03:17.280" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T21:03:17.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22815" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:06:45.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is played in nine rounds, of which rounds 3, 6 and 9 are scoring rounds. It works something like &quot;musical chairs,&quot; insofar as you try to occupy the most advantageous regions on the three scoring rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:06:45.507" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T21:06:45.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22816" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:06:45.507" Score="0" Body="A German style board game for 2-5 players." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:06:45.507" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T21:06:45.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22817" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:11:21.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a truck driver or freight forwarder in central Europe, your goal is to maximize the profit of driving your &quot;cargo&quot; to various destinations, in an environment of rapidly changing prices and other game conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:11:21.393" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T21:11:21.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22818" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:11:21.393" Score="0" Body="Auf Achse is translated from German as &quot;On wheels.&quot;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T21:11:21.393" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T21:11:21.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22819" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:18:00.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A game of rolling glow in the dark dice for the right to capture other players' goats and other farm animals at night, while (hopefully) avoiding the loss of your own. Each player starts with six dice and the player who captures all of the dice wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6650" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T13:59:29.230" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T13:59:29.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22820" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-01T21:18:00.143" Score="0" Body="Chupacabra is a dice game by Steve Jackson Games the object of which is to capture all of the dice which represent either chupacabras or farm animals." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="6650" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T13:59:15.913" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T13:59:15.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22821" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-01T22:17:27.927" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-01T22:17:27.927" LastActivityDate="2015-02-01T22:17:27.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22822" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-01T22:17:27.927" Score="0" Body="&quot;Classic&quot; war games in the style of those published by Avalon Hill Co. between about 1960 and 1975, characterised by simple rules and relatively few counters. True &quot;8 years and up&quot; board games." OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T03:54:36.747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T03:54:36.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22823" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T01:13:45.527" Score="4" ViewCount="3634" Body="&lt;p&gt;I won some magic the gathering 10th edition core set booster packs, are they worth anything?&#xA;Or should I open to get rare cards? Also have 2 core sets &amp;mdash; Molimo's might and Exincar's tyranny &amp;mdash; and a 2 player starter game that includes 2 booster packs from 10th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11720" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T12:29:26.490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T12:29:26.490" Title="Are old Magic: the Gathering boosters worth more sealed, or should I open them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-02T03:35:56.413" Score="8" ViewCount="1879" Body="&lt;p&gt;A scenario that played out in our game of &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if a player falsly declares he won when he was at 9 points instead of 10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does declaring he won end his turn? (and this is after the said player laid down his cards and left the table) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because after we told him he didn't win, the player was able to play two resource cards to make a road and then have sufficient points. However, if declaring your win ends your turn, does it not leave the possiblity of at least one more round and the other players to play for the win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11721" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T08:04:21.630" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T08:04:21.630" Title="Does declaring victory end your turn?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22824" CreationDate="2015-02-02T04:12:49.560" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;offical rules&lt;/a&gt; (bottom of page 5) state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ENDING THE GAME&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have 10 or more victory points during your turn the game ends and you are the winner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpreted literally, this is a state of the game, not an action - if at any point during your turn, you have 10 or more victory points, you win, independent of what you say or do. &quot;Declaring victory&quot; is not something which is covered in the rules, so it can't end your turn. However, this literal interpretation of the rules leads to an obvious problem if somebody does have 10 victory points on their turn but doesn't declare victory - are they still the winner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, this is going to depend on the context you're playing in - in any of my gaming groups, we'd give the person claiming victory a ribbing for not being able to count to 10 and let them continue their turn - but that's a decision for your group to make, not one the rules are going to make for you; you can't expect the rules to cover every mistake a player can possibly make. If you're in a more formal context like a tournament, this is the time to call the referee over to your table - that's what they're there for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T04:12:49.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22823" CreationDate="2015-02-02T07:34:58.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find the higher value 10th edition cards here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.tcgplayer.com/magic/10th-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://shop.tcgplayer.com/magic/10th-edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Packs of 10th edition have recently sold on ebay for around $8.50, if that option interests you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expected value of an opened pack of 10th edition, accounting only for rares values from mtgstocks.com, is about $2.38 &amp;mdash; according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgstocks.com/sets/64&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their page on the M10 set&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your best bet is to sell the pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11716" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-02T11:08:39.437" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T11:08:39.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21338" CreationDate="2015-02-02T09:58:50.333" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an even sized board it is much easier to mirror your opponent's moves (this special tactic is known as &quot;mane go&quot;). Playing the tengen point on an odd sized board is a move that cannot be mirrored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T09:58:50.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22839" CreationDate="2015-02-02T10:17:57.330" Score="2" ViewCount="3125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say your investigator gets delayed (cannot perform any actions bare &quot;standing up&quot;) and then get &lt;em&gt;Detained&lt;/em&gt; (for example, via a Mythos card). The &lt;em&gt;Detained&lt;/em&gt; condition states that the investigator can only perform one action: roll influence to escape the detention. However, this means that you cannot &quot;stand up&quot; thus are still delayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can see these solutions: (i) Stand up, you cannot roll influence and thus get the full bore of the Detained. (ii) You roll influence thus potentially escaping the detention but are still delayed at the end of your turn. (iii) You cannot have both conditions at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T00:36:59.553" Title="Delayed and detained" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22841" CreationDate="2015-02-02T12:48:00.767" Score="14" ViewCount="17938" Body="&lt;p&gt;When going bankrupt in Monopoly the rules state that you must either &lt;em&gt;turn over to that player all that you have of value and retire from the game&lt;/em&gt; if going bankrupt thanks to another player, or &lt;em&gt;turn over all assets to the Bank&lt;/em&gt; if going bankrupt thanks to the Bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Versions of the game with &lt;em&gt;Rules for a Short Game&lt;/em&gt; state that after the second player goes bankrupt:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each remaining player then values his/her property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cash on hand &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lots, Utilities and Railroads owned, at the price printed on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Any mortgaged property owned, at one-half the price printed on the board. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Houses, valued at purchase price.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Hotels, valued at purchase price including the value of the&#xA;  three houses turned in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The richest player wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mentions nothing about Get Out of Jail Free cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Despite being a sell-able item, do these not have &quot;value&quot;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, do these get returned to the board after a player retires from the game with one or both in their possession?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11724" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T12:48:24.703" Title="Do Get Out of Jail Free cards &quot;have value&quot;?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2015-02-02T14:24:31.237" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules do not explicitly tell us what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it makes sense to say that they have 'value' and that they are transferred during bankruptcy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T14:24:31.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22823" CreationDate="2015-02-02T14:27:33.173" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Logically speaking, it would never make sense for the expected value of an opened pack to be higher than the value of an unopened pack.  If that was ever the case, people would just buy unopened packs, open them, and sell them for a net profit.  Unopened packs have the potential to have a high value, and that potential reward comes with an associated increase in cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T14:27:33.173" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22795" CreationDate="2015-02-02T14:47:32.733" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use the advanced features of the Gatherer to search for the phrase &quot;put a +1/+1 counter on each&quot;, in quotes, in the rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[%22Put%20a%20%2b1/%2b1%20counter%20on%20each%20creature%20you%20control%22]&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[%22Put%20a%20%2b1/%2b1%20counter%20on%20each%20creature%20you%20control%22]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This finds &lt;strong&gt;every single card&lt;/strong&gt; that puts a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control, and it will continue to do so as new sets are added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T14:47:32.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22747" CreationDate="2015-02-02T15:00:38.553" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it's an ignitiion effect, but the rule book isn't too specific, what a quick effect has to look like. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.de/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=5&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0CDwQFjAE&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yugioh-card.com%2Fuk%2Frulebook%2FRulebook_v9_en.pdf&amp;amp;ei=3I7PVJGeGouuU_PSgKgC&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGA0UwHs5645XFrSUxvPPOOj30lxA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.google.de/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=5&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0CDwQFjAE&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.yugioh-card.com%2Fuk%2Frulebook%2FRulebook_v9_en.pdf&amp;amp;ei=3I7PVJGeGouuU_PSgKgC&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNGA0UwHs5645XFrSUxvPPOOj30lxA&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you're not able to activate it during your op. turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11655" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T15:00:38.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22836" CreationDate="2015-02-02T15:01:33.753" Score="7" ViewCount="33005" Body="&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan for three players suffers slightly from too much space. I find the four player game much more enjoyable because of the tense competetion for places to settle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that this could be easily solved, though, by using fewer hexes. I can replace some resource hexes with ocean hexes from my Seafarers game. Of course, it could take some experimenting to figure out what works well, and I'm wondering if others have gone down this road:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many hexes should be used?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What combination of resources is best?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it better to vary in a different way, say, starting with three settlements, and playing to a higher number of victory points?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastActivityDate="2017-01-01T04:45:56.700" Title="How should we setup Settlers of Catan for three players?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22834" CreationDate="2015-02-02T17:47:55.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some good suggestions all over the internet for making a three-player board more competetive in the early game. They all boil down to either removing hexes, or replacing them with desert pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of hexes you replace/remove depends on preference, but I'd recommend either removing three or five total hexes. When removing five, just remove one of each resource type. When removing three, remove one wood, grain and lumber (since brick and ore have one less hex to start with).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When removing three hexes, take one of each number token 3 and 11 and remove them from the game. Then take one of each number token 4 and 10, choose one at random and remove it from the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When removing five hexes, take one of each number token 3-4-10-11 and remove them from the game. Then take one of each number token 5 and 9, pick one at random and remove it from the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Substituting hexes with deserts means there's still plenty of room for long roads and it puts some distance between viable resources. Also, it allows you to maintain the regular board size. Removing hexes altogether can lead to challenging board shapes, but if you remove exactly five hexes you can still create a hexagonal board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  X X&#xA; X X X&#xA;X X X X&#xA; X X X&#xA;  X X&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to get a hexagon with 3 hexes removed is if you make it asymmetrical across one diagonal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  X X X&#xA; X X X X&#xA;X X X X X&#xA; X X X X&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A third option found online is increasing the VP requirement. This doesn't match your criteria since you're looking to increase tension in the early game (instead you'll find yourself using more of the board late game) but it's still worth mentioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T05:12:21.807" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T05:12:21.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18023" CreationDate="2015-02-02T22:23:39.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From talking (on the phone) with the lovely people at Steve Jackson Games in Austin:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still have a die, you're still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rolling a Chupacabra essentially means you're safe and can't get kicked out of the game that round. There's no way to &quot;kill&quot; a fellow Chupacabra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that when the game rules say &quot;Even if they haven't attacked&quot; they mean &quot;Even if they haven't had a turn yet&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11727" LastActivityDate="2015-02-02T22:23:39.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2015-02-03T00:27:38.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the player to which you defaulted wants it, then it has value to him. Since it is a transferable item, he should therefore take possession of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've looked at numerous definitions of value and assets. As something useful that can be transferred to settle debts, Get Out of Jail Free cards easily match both definitions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any basis to support your position that only items having a guaranteed sale cost are considered to have value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, they do have a &quot;face value&quot;. The price to get out of jail is normally $50.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T00:39:50.690" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T00:39:50.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22828" CreationDate="2015-02-03T00:28:51.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The influence roll on the Detained card is a &lt;strong&gt;Local Action&lt;/strong&gt;, meaning any investigator on the space, yourself included, can roll to perform the action.  Normally, you would be able to roll on it to try to remove the &lt;strong&gt;Restriction&lt;/strong&gt;.  However, being &lt;strong&gt;Delayed&lt;/strong&gt; adds an additional restriction indicating that you cannot perform any actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe the question is based around if the act of standing up from being &lt;strong&gt;Delayed&lt;/strong&gt; is an &lt;strong&gt;Action&lt;/strong&gt;.  As the rule book states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Delayed investigator cannot perform actions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only logical way for an investigator to cease detainment is for the act of standing up to not count as an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net result for your round would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any investigators before you, who are also on your space, can roll as a local action to try to discard your Detained card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On your turn, regardless of Detained status, you stand up and perform no other actions due to being Delayed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any investigators after you, who are also on your space, can roll as a local action to try to discard your Detained card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your encounter phase, if the Detained was not removed, flip the card and encounter the back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5019" LastEditorUserId="5019" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T00:36:59.553" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T00:36:59.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20477" CreationDate="2015-02-03T01:12:14.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flavorwise, the idea of riding multiple warhorses definitely falls flat.  However, there is nothing in the rules indicating that only one is allowed at a time.  The power is held somewhat in check due to a single loss of life in battle/combat resulting in losing all of the Warhorses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not answering for this specific card, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Talisman/support/talisman-faq1-0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; indicates that multiple &amp;quot;Add Craft to Strength&amp;quot; effects can be applied to a single battle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: Can the Monk use his inner belief to add his Craft value to his&#xA;Strength during battle and then cast the Psionic Blast Spell to add&#xA;his Craft value to his Strength again during the same battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To alleviate the flavor concerns, I like the response from this &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/39127-multiple-warhorses/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FFG Forum Post&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that many people think it's weird because a human being&#xA;can only be mounted on one horse at any given time.  While this is&#xA;true, who says that the player is mounted during combat?  Sure it&#xA;makes the most sense, to have the horse biting and hoofing while its&#xA;rider slashes with his or her sword, but there's no reason that a well&#xA;trained warhorse couldn't be flanking and opponent with its faithful&#xA;companion.  When you consider this, two horses, or three or four or&#xA;whatever, are irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this is all superfluous, anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5019" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T01:12:14.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2015-02-03T03:12:15.630" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;face value&quot; of the get out of jail card is $50. The &quot;time value&quot; is probably less than that, because not everyone will be willing to pay $50 today to save $50 at some indefinite point in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two player game, the creditor doesn't &quot;have&quot; to accept such as card as legal tender. But if things are so bad that the $50 represents &quot;survival,&quot; you're probably going to lose anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer game, there is likely to be a third party that will want to keep you in the game (so that the landlord won't get all your property) who can &quot;reasonably&quot; pay $50 for a get out of jail free card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some games I've played, there is a house rule that says that you can sell the get out of jail free card back to the bank for $50 by putting it at the bottom of the chance or community chest pile. That formalizes a &quot;value&quot; that doesn't exist under the official rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T03:12:15.630" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22845" CreationDate="2015-02-03T04:17:30.773" Score="16" ViewCount="2201" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/20920/can-i-place-settlements-on-harbors-in-set-up&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, the opening phase is not the best time to do so, because you get too few resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harbors are good for trade, so I would imagine that a good time would be when one has &quot;many&quot; resources, but not necessarily the right ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So would that be late in the game, or even in the middle game? Or could game &quot;circumstances,&quot; rather than game &quot;phases,&quot; be the critical factor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:06:17.860" Title="When are good times/circumstances to build harbor settlements in Settlers of Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22843" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-03T08:03:32.183" Score="2" ViewCount="957" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in my local card store tonight and one of the people there mentioned some sort of combo to have multiple of the same planeswalker in play at once, involving some way to turn planeswalkers into non-planeswalkers to could avoid the Planeswalker Uniqueness Rule. He said he had some way to do this, but I didn't have a chance to hear what the actual combo was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm a bit skeptical of his claim, and can't figure out how to do this myself. I know &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Song%20of%20the%20Dryads&quot;&gt;Song of the Dryads&lt;/a&gt; can remove the type itself, but the side effects are counterproductive to the overall goal. On the other hand, I've seen ways of getting permanents both with every permanent type and no permanent type, so I can easily believe that some weird interaction could exist for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short, is there some interaction I'm missing that removes the planeswalker type from a card—or even better, all planeswalkers in play—to allow multiples in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:18:18.063" Title="Can the Planeswalker type be removed from permanents?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22843" CreationDate="2015-02-03T08:30:07.810" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.4. If a player controls two or more planeswalkers that share a planeswalker type, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners' graveyards. This is called the &quot;planeswalker uniqueness rule.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you somehow remove or alter the planeswalker type of a planeswalker (Jace, Nissa etc are the types), you can play another Planeswalker with the same name yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, the use of Song of the Dryads makes one of your Planeswalkers a Forest (it loses its types Planeswalker and [Name], and it gets the types Land and Forest). However, it also loses its abilities. I can't think of cards right know that just remove a type of a Planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were to keep its loyalty abilities, it could use them just fine. The only restrictions for activating a loyalty abilities over the standard restrictions for activating abilities (costs, targets) is that only one of an object's loyalty abilities can be activated each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T14:18:18.063" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:18:18.063" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2015-02-03T11:25:27.080" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 types of Habour (or port) in the game, and they have different best times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 3:1 ports are always handy, more so in the late game. However, there are few reasons to have one early.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The 2:1 ports are worth building if, and only if, you have an excess of production in a particular resource.  This may just develop late game (especially with brick and wood once you've got no expansion), or you may purposefully give yourself an excess with initial placement.  This is most common with sheep.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, rarely is it worth starting on a harbour unless it has excellent numbers (5-8, for example).  In general, you should be able to build on a 3-resource hex and have an uncontested build to the harbour for your first settlement, which should give you more resources early on before the trade would be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T11:25:27.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2015-02-03T13:35:55.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a specific resource is exceptionally difficult to obtain (for example, brick has numbers 2-3-10) it could be worth your time investing heavily in a different resource and a matching port. A surefire return on investment would be getting three different numbers in the 4-10 range of the same resource (4-5-10 would qualify, but obviously 5-6-8 is better).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having multiple good numbers on the same resource is a prerequisite here, because otherwise you'll be robber bait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can meet these requirements with your starting settlements and take a port as well, go for it. Otherwise try to get settled near the desired port and head there later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have this port, you wouldn't have to focus on building near specific resources. Instead, you can focus on building near different numbers, and fill the gap in your available resources with your port.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T15:06:17.860" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:06:17.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2015-02-03T14:26:52.370" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;My harbor strategy is to place one or both of my original placements &lt;em&gt;near&lt;/em&gt; harbors ... with the plans of making my first new settlement in a harbor -- preferably in a spot that borders the harbor and two hexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience &lt;strong&gt;you particularly need a better trading ratio early in the game&lt;/strong&gt;, when resources (both yours and others) are scarce, but I agree with those that suggest not placing either of your original settlements on a harbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A secondary benefit of putting your original placements near a harbor is that it prevents you from being boxed in, as it is usually easy to continue expanding around the edges of the board, settling on places that didn't look good for your original settlement, but are not at all bad later in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether I use 3-1 or 2-1 harbors depends of course on which hexes I place my original settlements on, and whether I can reach the 2-1 that is most beneficial. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of my best games have been when I am heavily invested in a certain resource, and have the 2-1 port in that resource. (Because if I'm getting most of the wood, I can often get 1-1 trades with wood-deprived competitors first, then fall back on the 2-1 when necessary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastEditorUserId="749" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T14:34:59.540" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T14:34:59.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2015-02-03T16:31:52.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a matter of cutting your losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're probably familiar with the little red dots below the number values. Numbers 2 and 12 have one dot, while numbers 6 and 8 have five dots. The number of dots represents the odds that a number is rolled when rolling two dice, &lt;strong&gt;on average&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that if you roll the dice thousands of times you will get more sevens than sixes. The problem is that a single game of Settlers is too short for the dice roll distribution to normalize. Within a 50 turn game, you can regularly get more 4s than 5s. You can get less 8s than 3s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To counterbalance for these skewed odds, if you are presented with the choice of 5-6-6 or 5-6-8, the latter should be an easy choice because you spread the risk you're taking across your available numbers. You can only get screwed over for the numbers you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:31:52.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5376" CreationDate="2015-02-03T16:42:45.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer is &lt;em&gt;NO&lt;/em&gt;. Here is how I would rank various features of your initial placement:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quantity of resources (number of dots).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availability of Brick and Lumber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Availability of nearby ports.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diversity of resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Room to expand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number diversity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And like others have said, there is a certain upside in being focused on particular numbers. But however you feel about that, it should rarely decided where you place, given all of the more important factors for placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T16:42:45.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22852" CreationDate="2015-02-03T16:52:28.753" Score="14" ViewCount="163615" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my family is having a disagreement on the uno rules. Here's what happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 completes turn by playing a regular numbered blue card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 has 3 cards left. Player 2 plays a blue skip, and plays a red skip. Player 2 has 1 card now. Player 2 plays their last card (a red numbered card). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are out of cards, having played 3 cards really close together, with no chance for Player 1 to call them out on not saying uno. Player 1 calls it right after Player 2 has already run out of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the question - Player 2 is already out of cards, and never said Uno, and now Player 1 is calling them out on it. Has player 2 already won, or must Player 2 now take 2 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11745" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T17:34:20.557" Title="Didn't Say Uno Before Running Out of Cards" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22851" CreationDate="2015-02-03T17:17:10.607" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules, the hand is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wonkavator.com/uno/unorules.html&quot;&gt;http://www.wonkavator.com/uno/unorules.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you have one card left, you must yell &quot;UNO&quot; (meaning one).&#xA;  Failure to do this results in you having to pick two cards from the&#xA;  DRAW pile. That is, of course if you get caught by the other players.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Once a player has no cards left, the hand is over. Points are scored&#xA;  (see scoring section) and you start over again.&lt;/strong&gt; That's UNO in a&#xA;  nutshell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, you only have until the next player starts playing a card before it is to late to call them out. In this scenario once Player 2 started his 3rd turn (by starting the motion to play his last card), it was too late to call him out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who forgets to say UNO before his card touches the discard&#xA;  pile, but &quot;catches&quot; himself before any other player catches him, is&#xA;  safe and is not subject to the penalty. You may not catch a player for&#xA;  failure to say UNO until his second to last card touches the DISCARD&#xA;  pile. &lt;strong&gt;Also, you may not catch a player for failure to say UNO after&#xA;  the next player begins his turn. &quot;Beginning a turn is defines as&#xA;  either drawing a card from the DRAW pile or drawing a card from your&#xA;  hand to play.&lt;/strong&gt; If the last card played in a hand is a Draw Two or Wild&#xA;  Draw Four card, the next player must draw the two or four cards. These&#xA;  cards are counted when points are totaled. If no one is out of cards&#xA;  by the time the DRAW pile is depleted, reshuffle and continue play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to call out Player2 and force him to draw cards for not saying 'UNO', Player 1 would have had to say it directly after his second to last card was played (touched the discard pile) but before he started to play his last card. Incredibly short, but possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T17:23:00.110" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T17:23:00.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18601" CreationDate="2015-02-03T17:56:41.047" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best time to play a knight is NOT necessarily immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One example was the one you cited, that you should wait for more knights to get the largest army, if that was your ticket to victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another case is where the robber is on a hex that hurts you a &quot;little,&quot; and hurts your leading opponent &quot;more.&quot; In that case, your best interests are served by &quot;hurting your opponent more&quot; and not playing the knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, if the robber is on a hex that costs you, and no one else, critical resources, then you might want to play the knight immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catan is something of a &quot;curved&quot; game where how much you advance is no more, or less important, than preventing other people from advancing. The person that complained about your not playing the knight at once either didn't understand that, or perhaps was trying to distract you from playing according to that understanding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T17:56:41.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22855" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-03T19:58:56.917" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T19:58:56.917" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T19:58:56.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22856" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-03T19:58:56.917" Score="0" Body="Strategy board game for 2-5 players, related to Dungeons &amp; Dragons.  A game consists of 8 rounds during which players attempt to increase their control over a city and its treasures." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T05:39:43.060" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T05:39:43.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22857" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-03T21:11:14.260" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-03T21:11:14.260" LastActivityDate="2015-02-03T21:11:14.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22858" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-03T21:11:14.260" Score="0" Body="A hidden team game of at least two teams (blue and red), with a bomber on the red team and a president on the blue team.  Players are spread across two rooms and select players to transfer to the other room in each round.  At the end of the game, the red team wins if they get the bomber in the same room as the president, while the blue team wins if the bomber and president are in different rooms." OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T05:39:56.267" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T05:39:56.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22860" CreationDate="2015-02-03T22:24:48.697" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an Event Card which has the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Massive Bird Migration&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may move 1 of your disease cubes from a city you are currently infecting to a new city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;em&gt;new city&lt;/em&gt; here mean a city which isn't already infected by another player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11724" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T22:19:30.377" Title="Does &quot;new city&quot; mean a city no other players are infecting?" Tags="|pandemic-contagion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22859" CreationDate="2015-02-03T23:51:29.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A new city means one that you are currently not infecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the infect a city infection &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic_Contagion.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can infect a new city OR a city you are currently infecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;new city: Discard 2 cards whose color must match the city you&#xA;  wish to infect. Place your disease cube(s) on the uppermost&#xA;  available row (without any cubes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;City you are currently infecting: Discard 1 card whose color must&#xA;  match the city you are currently infecting. Place your disease&#xA;  cube(s) next to those already on the City card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T14:57:16.030" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T14:57:16.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T04:52:04.910" Score="1" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to why there are 6 copies of the same miniature an corresponding ID cards in the Gaming Night Kits. I understand the different languages ID cards copies of the same miniature? I would of expected 1 miniature and three ID cards (one for each language) however i get 6 miniatures and 18 cards (6 for each language). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that I can play with the same character in the same game and there are no restrictions for the same survivor? So if I owned multiple copies of the game I could technically have a team of all the same survivor?&#xA;Does anyone know if there is a rule that stops this from happening or why the gaming night kits bring 6 miniatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastEditorUserId="5081" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T15:09:51.747" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:43:01.517" Title="Why are there multiple copies of figures in Gaming Night Kits" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2015-02-04T06:18:45.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played as a Spy and been put on the first mission.  I chose to fail it.  The only person who knows for sure that I am the spy is the other person on the mission.  Then you start a slow smear campaign against the other person.  If you can get one other player to side with you (another spy usually) then others will come to your aide.  Its risky but you can make it work...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11747" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T06:18:45.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22863" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-04T09:03:51.530" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T09:03:51.530" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T09:03:51.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22864" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-04T09:03:51.530" Score="0" Body="Mage wars pits magic wielders of different schools against each other in arena combat." OwnerUserId="5386" LastEditorUserId="5386" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T12:26:12.760" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T12:26:12.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22842" CreationDate="2015-02-04T12:55:56.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stating with an harbor is doable when for example one settlement is on a resource with at least 1 red number and you have the matching 2:1 harbor. You try to make a city as soon as possible to draw 2 cards at a time which with the trade basically gives you 1 resource of any kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Else, you can play with the harbor master tile expansion which gives 2 VP when you have 3 point worth of settlement on the shore (1 pt per settlement, 2 point per city). Game is won at 11 VP since it's easier to get 2 VP tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11750" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T12:55:56.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22866" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-04T15:11:50.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card Wars is a trading card game from the animated television series &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adventure_Time&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adventure Time&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player has 4 lanes on which to play creatures and buildings. All creatures must then either &quot;floop&quot; to activate an ability, fight the creature in the opponent's corresponding lane, or deal damage to the opponent's life total. The game is over when one player had no more life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T20:03:37.377" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T20:03:37.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22867" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-04T15:11:50.313" Score="0" Body="Card Wars is a trading card game based on Cartoon Network's Adventure Time series." OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T20:03:42.350" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T20:03:42.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2015-02-04T18:21:48.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always played they get returned to the deck from whence they came, in the event of bankruptcy to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, of course, in the event of bankruptcy to the bank, they also go back into the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to be one of the few undefined points in the Monopoly rules - arguments for turning them over to the player who bankrupted you &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; for returning them to the deck, in my opinion, are equally valid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T18:21:48.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22871" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22872" CreationDate="2015-02-04T19:12:51.787" Score="0" ViewCount="1319" Body="&lt;p&gt;A couple scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366403&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cloudfin Raptor&lt;/a&gt; with evolve is at 0/1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=380492&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Satyr Grovedancer&lt;/a&gt; (1/1) enters the battlefield causing Cloudfin Raptor to evolve to 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put the counter from Satyr Grovedancer on Cloudfin Raptor making it 2/3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloudfin Raptor is already at 1/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Satyr Grovedancer enters the battlefield and I put the 1/1 counter on it making it 2/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cloudfin Raptor evolves to 2/3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are either or both of these scenarios valid and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T19:21:20.963" Title="Which &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; effects happen first, cards that are entering, or cards already on the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22871" CreationDate="2015-02-04T19:21:20.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;First Scenario&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Satyr Grovedancer enters the battlefield, the Grovedancer's ability goes on the stack unconditionally and the Cloudfin Raptor's ability goes on the stack because it has lower power than the Grovedancer, and these abilities go on the stack in any order you choose. The order is important, though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put the Raptor's ability on top of the stack, it will resolve first. When it resolves, it checks that it has lower power or toughness than the creature that entered (the Grovedancer). This is true, so you put the counter on it. Then the Grovedancer's ability resolves and you put another counter on the Raptor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put the Grovedancer's ability on top of the stack, it will resolve first and you put a counter on the Raptor. Then the Raptor's ability resolves, but by that time it doesn't have lower power or toughness than the Grovedancer, so it doesn't get a counter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Second Scenario&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, when the Grovedancer enters, its ability goes on the stack like before, but the Raptor's ability &lt;strong&gt;does not&lt;/strong&gt; go on the stack because the condition for putting it on the stack (it has lower power or toughness than the entering creature) is not true. Then only the Grovedancer's ability resolves, so you get to put a single +1/+1 counter on either creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The primary rule that governs how both of these scenarios play out is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;603.4&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A triggered ability may read &quot;When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].&quot; &lt;strong&gt;When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn't true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing.&lt;/strong&gt; Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the &quot;intervening 'if' clause&quot; rule. (The word &quot;if&quot; has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an &quot;if&quot; that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this rule applies because the exact wording of the Evolve ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, &lt;strong&gt;if that creature has greater power or toughness than this creature&lt;/strong&gt;, put a +1/+1 counter on this creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T19:21:20.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:23:48.753" Score="2" ViewCount="828" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure that if a creature is enchanted with some other aura, say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt;, and then you put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; on it and the creature dies, Rancor falls off when it comes back to the battlefield. Is this true? My instinct is yes because the creature goes to the graveyard and becomes a new object and all that but I'd like to be sure. As an added question would Rancor's and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angelic%20Destiny&quot;&gt;Angelic Destiny&lt;/a&gt; abilities work off a creature that dies while enchanted by Gift of Immortality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11757" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T23:11:47.863" LastActivityDate="2018-05-03T01:10:38.183" Title="How do other auras interact with Gift of Immortality?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22874" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:33:38.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a creature dies, but before triggered abilities are placed on the stack, State Based Actions are performed. The SBAs will cause both Rancor and Gift of Immortality to go the graveyard because they are not attached to anything [CR 704.5n]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, it's time to place on the stack the abilities that have triggered. Gift of Immortality's ability and Rancor's ability are placed on the stack in whatever order you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Rancor's ability resolves, it returns to your hand. When Gift of Immortality's ability resolves, it returns the creature to the battlefield and creates a delayed triggered ability, which puts Gift of Immortality back on the battlefield, attached to the creature at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Angelic Destiny's ability works the same way Rancor's does, so it would also return to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T02:07:27.457" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T02:07:27.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22874" CreationDate="2015-02-04T22:51:19.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature dies, all Auras enchanting that creature are moved to the graveyard. That includes Rancor, Gift of Immortality, and Angelic Destiny. Then, triggers go on the stack. In more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A creature enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt; dies. Then, Rancor goes to the graveyard. Then, Rancor's triggered ability returns Rancor to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A creature enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angelic%20Destiny&quot;&gt;Angelic Destiny&lt;/a&gt; dies. Then, Angelic Destiny goes to the graveyard. Then, Angelic Destiny's triggered ability returns Angelic Destiny to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A creature enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gift%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Gift of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; dies. Then, Gift of Immortality goes to the graveyard. Then, Gift of Immortality's triggered ability returns the creature it was enchanting to the battlefield. Then, at the beginning of the next end step, Gift of Immortality is reattached to that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all three are enchanting the same creature, and that creature dies, then you get to decide the order in which to stack these triggers. However, the effect will &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; be the same regardless of the order in which they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-04T22:58:43.840" LastActivityDate="2015-02-04T22:58:43.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22878" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-05T05:43:45.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;KGS Go Server&lt;/em&gt;, often simply called &lt;em&gt;KGS&lt;/em&gt;, is  free online server for playing Go as well as watching and reviewing games. Its client, CGoban 3, is available on many platforms using Java Web Start and has been translated into many languages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gokgs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T08:43:02.610" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T08:43:02.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22879" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-05T05:43:45.650" Score="0" Body="A free online server for playing Go as well as watching and reviewing games" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T08:44:42.210" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T08:44:42.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22880" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22881" CreationDate="2015-02-05T14:23:31.503" Score="3" ViewCount="24402" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played a game of Werewolf where the moderator was not very experienced with the game, and (I feel, anyway) the whole setup was very one-sided.  After doing some reading of the rule book I admit I still don't really know how to make the game feel less 1-sided.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know about the number system on the cards (try to balance to zero) and that there are some scenarios existing, but any tips or links on what to read for a good fun game would be much appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a little off-topic, should the players know what all is in the game at the beginning or not?  Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11765" LastActivityDate="2018-09-21T12:56:26.183" Title="Ultimate Werewolf Good 10-12 Player setups" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22880" CreationDate="2015-02-05T15:39:26.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is not completely clear. But I give it a try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The balance between werewolves and good villagers is important. A rule of thumb is 1/3 werewolves. But it is not that critical. A single smart werewolf can win versus 12 villagers and 5 werewolves can be beaten by 12. Note that on a typical night the wolves eat a villager and during the day there is a chance the villagers kill a wolf. &#xA;So if the balance (wolves, villagers) = (a, 2a). Then the balance on the next day is either (a-1, 2a-1) or (a, 2a-2). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The normal 12 player setup would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Seer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Hunter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Cupid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Villagers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 wolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Idea's to expand the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can experiment with additional roles to spice up the game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can even try a game without wolves (the moderator selects the victim each night). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try adding a theme to the setting. For example Call the village Waterloo, the villagers are the french, the wolves are enemy spies and the Mayor is called Napoleon.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try adding extra elements.  For example, in the morning, there is a mysterious bottle in the village. The first player that drinks it, has the effects (this can be good (protected vs the wolves for the next night) or bad (you are dead)). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to enjoy the game it is important to see it as a team effort. Even if a single villager survives, the villagers have won as a team. (Same for wolves). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a face to face game, I rarely let the players know in advance what the roles are. In a forum game, more information is needed so I often include the roles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T15:39:26.803" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22883" CreationDate="2015-02-05T16:47:22.833" Score="3" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was playing a game and this card came out and we couldn't decide if by &quot;Other Minotaur creatures&quot; it means not this creature, or if it included it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, we assumed that it would give Trample to Minotaurs as soon as it was cast, rather than when its summoning sickness had passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please can someone clarify for me, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cvVf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Rageblood Shaman&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11768" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T13:58:04.730" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T13:58:04.730" Title="Does Rageblood Shaman give itself +1/+1?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22882" CreationDate="2015-02-05T17:00:31.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shaman has what is called a Static Ability. These kinds of abilities are active as long as their source is on the battlefield. So it will be active from the moment the Shaman enters the battlefield until the moment it leaves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what it effects, &quot;Other Minotaurs&quot; means exactly that, any Minotaur other than the one with the ability gets the +1/+1 and trample. If you happen to control 2 of the Shamans they will each effect the other one, but they will not effect themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for an ability like that to grant itself that ability it needs to drop the &quot;Other&quot; and just say &quot;Minotaur creatures you control get +1/+1 and have trample.&quot; An example of this template is almost any &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?subtype=%20[sliver]&quot;&gt;Sliver&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the Shaman already has trample, so the part of the ability that you should be caring about is the +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;604.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Static abilities do something all the time rather than being activated or triggered. They are written as statements, and they're simply true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-05T20:05:47.490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T20:05:47.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-05T17:26:25.190" Score="3" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I currently own &lt;strong&gt;Chronicle of the Godslayer&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Return of the Fallen&lt;/strong&gt;, which are a paired set, so they work very well together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble locating a copy of &lt;strong&gt;Storm of Souls&lt;/strong&gt;, but I could pretty easily pick up &lt;strong&gt;Immortal Heroes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would &lt;strong&gt;Immortal Heroes&lt;/strong&gt; work well alongside CotG/RoTF, or is it better to 1) play it as a standalone or 2) combo it with SoS?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's my specific situation, but an answer that more broadly addresses combining boxes from different &quot;blocks&quot; would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6603" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T05:09:20.123" Title="Do Ascension's small box expansions work well with the other big boxes?" Tags="|deck-building|expansions|ascension|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-05T18:02:13.473" Score="19" ViewCount="3136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to Settlers of Catan, and I quickly learned the importance of having a source of Brick and Lumber at the start of the game. And some googling showed that others agree ... and others disagree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever you value most at the start ... brick, wood, grain, ore, (ok, not wool so much), diversity of resources, diversity of numbers, access to ports, etc., you can find a blog post confirming your belief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is much harder to find is actual data. Has there been any significant study of competitive games and/or computer simulations that give substantial support to a particular initial placement strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T19:07:56.850" Title="Catan starting strategies -- actual data?" Tags="|catan|openings|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22890" CreationDate="2015-02-05T22:04:27.563" Score="0" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that there has been complaints about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/14015/in-star-fluxx-have-you-needed-to-change-how-the-computer-and-the-unseen-force-p&quot;&gt;other cards being overpowered&lt;/a&gt;, but after playing a few games with my sister, who had never played before, she won almost every game by strategically using the play all card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Her strategy was to remove the hand limit, increase the draw limit and decrease the play limit so that she could keep her cards in her hand. She would then wait until she got the play all card and a goal that matched two of the keepers in her hand. Then she would win the game by playing the play all rule and then playing only the cards she needed to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought that perhaps the rules required for all cards to be played first and then determine if she had won, but she reminded me that I had told her &quot;The game ends when the current goal conditions are met&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what's the actual verdict on this situation? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11503" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T22:39:02.980" Title="In Star Fluxx, how does the game end with Play all?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22888" CreationDate="2015-02-05T22:34:50.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;She is right, the game ends instantly when someone meets the current goal requirement, even if that person isn't the current player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game continues until someone meets the conditions of the current Goal. That player wins instantly, no matter whose turn it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Listed under &quot;winning&quot; in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/lit/rules/fluxx-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules for normal Fluxx&lt;/a&gt;, and I'm pretty sure Star Fluxx is no different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T22:34:50.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22888" CreationDate="2015-02-05T22:39:02.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your sister is correct. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/sites/default/files/literature/Fluxx5.0_Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Fluxx rules&lt;/a&gt; do say that &quot;as soon as someone meets these conditions, they win!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think this should be an issue, it requires her to find the &quot;play all&quot; (or play 3, etc.) card and there are plenty of ways you can disrupt her strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the rules so that there is a hand limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the rules to increase the play limit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use an action or surprise card to disrupt this strategy: Trash a new rule, Trade hands, rotate hands, rules reset, That's Mine! etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T22:39:02.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22880" CreationDate="2015-02-05T23:32:38.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an answer to your offtopic question;&#xA;I always think is a good idea to take 3/4 more role cards than there are players. Let everybody know exactly which cards are in the game, but when you give them out, 3/4 will be left and unknown to everyone (ofcourse the moderator can take a peek). So you can have a wolf, or any role missing without anyone knowing. It gives another dimension to the game, I think. &#xA;It works the same if you play a forum game, just give them a few roles but don't use all of them and don't tell them how many of each role are in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11770" LastActivityDate="2015-02-05T23:32:38.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2015-02-06T00:07:22.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you happen to be running a Millstone deck with Island Sanctuary, you may not care how many turns your opponent takes as it just gets him through his deck quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're running a Stasis deck and your opponent is tapped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have Racks or Black Vises out and your opponent is low on life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a 2 mana artifact, you may not care that much if your opponent reverses advantage on the third turn to bank a turn for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty situation specific, but it exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11774" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T00:07:22.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T00:16:45.223" Score="3" ViewCount="2050" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a free program, preferably executable, that allow me to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quoridor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quoridor&lt;/a&gt; against an AI? There isn't a publicly available one for the Zillions engine, even if it doesn't seem that hard to write one, despite workarounds being required. Programming the game has already been the subject of academic papers (&lt;a href=&quot;https://project.dke.maastrichtuniversity.nl/games/files/bsc/Mertens_BSc-paper.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mendeley.com/download/public/2354731/3799351832/acad6962a9bb3eb3fde4272f476d6625eb0a8182/dl.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) and a university course (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.math.uaa.alaska.edu/~afkjm/ai_games/quoridor/quoridor.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11773" LastEditorUserId="22346" LastEditDate="2019-07-04T11:58:51.980" LastActivityDate="2019-07-04T11:58:51.980" Title="AI that plays Quoridor?" Tags="|computer-ai|board-game-adaptations|computers|quoridor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2019-07-09T04:17:35.210" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22895" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-06T03:13:03.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Walled City&lt;/em&gt;, also called &lt;em&gt;The Walled City: Londonderry &amp;amp; Borderlands&lt;/em&gt;, is a strategic board game with two sets of rules: Londonderry and Borderlands. It was first published by Mercury Games in 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T13:54:53.453" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T13:54:53.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22896" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-06T03:13:03.307" Score="0" Body="A strategic board game with two sets of rules: Londonderry and Borderlands" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T13:54:48.100" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T13:54:48.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21277" CreationDate="2015-02-06T05:05:39.163" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;IIRC, Luis Scott-Vargas actually talks in some of his Vintage videos about untapping Time Vault 'the hard way'; the primary reason that you might want to do it is that turns aren't necessarily equivalent.  If you, for instance, play T1 Time Vault (pick your favorite way) and your opponent goes Island, Delver of Secrets, then you may just choose to charge up the Time Vault right then, since about the worst thing that's going to happen on T2 is that you're going to get hit for 3 &amp;mdash; it's certainly conceivable that your opponent might resolve something brutal like Ancestral Recall, but about as likely that they'll just run out a Young Pyromancer or the like and hold up Daze.  By contrast, you'll be able to take &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; extra turn somewhere in the midgame, where you may be able to e.g. run out Thoughtseize to clear the way, use the banked extra turn, and set up Yawgmoth's Will for an outright win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T05:05:39.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22899" CreationDate="2015-02-06T05:15:17.480" Score="6" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rule was in place that said the hand limit was zero. It states that if it isn't your turn you should have zero cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other rules in play were draw three, play one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it was 'Person A's turn he played trade hands card. That means he gave the cards to 'Person B'. There were no modifiers at the time to the standard rule 'play one card'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is does the trade hands card need to fully resolve - meaning does person B have to discard the cards before the start of his turn. Or does the end of 'Person A's turn ended the moment he played the trade hands card, and person B gets to keep he cards at the start of his next turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I am hoping someone can cite an actual rule why Joe W is correct. My opponent isn't buying the logic and insists his turn is over the moment he traded the cards, so therefore I should keep the cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11775" LastEditorUserId="11775" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T03:40:02.817" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T05:55:25.663" Title="Fluxx: Hand limit zero + trade hands" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22898" CreationDate="2015-02-06T05:20:14.993" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;What will happen is Player A will pass his hand to Player B (should be 2 cards since Player A would have had 0 cards to start the turn, drew 3 and played 1) and since no other player can have cards due to the hand limit Player A gets no cards in return. Once the cards reach Player B's hand the hand limit will kick into action and force him to discard both cards and  return to 0 cards in his hand. At this point the trade action will be fully completed and  Player B will be able to start his turn by drawing 3 cards and playing one of the 3 cards now in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a rule that lets you take a free action of taking the top card of the deck and playing it. This action does not have to happen before you take your last action and is allowed to happen after you have taken your last action and before the next players turn ends. This should make it more clear that the player in this case has to discard the 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T05:55:25.663" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T05:55:25.663" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22898" CreationDate="2015-02-06T08:30:19.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While player B is holding cards, there is a violation of the hand limit rule, and that violation has to be resolved before the game can continue. This also means the trade hands card cannot fully resolve until player B has discarded his hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T08:30:19.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22901" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22902" CreationDate="2015-02-06T13:41:05.547" Score="6" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a very weak go player, playing very occasionally. I however enjoy easy tsumego problems on the train on my phone, as I find it more fun than, say, crosswords or sudoku.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the app I use (Tsumego Pro) presented me with this problem, and gave me a &quot;complete&quot; mark on a solution I don't think will work. The hints in the program point to this &quot;solution&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4GBTa.png&quot; alt=&quot;tsumego problem&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, black is dead and white is fine despite this. In every scenario I play out myself, white is able to kill the black inside the formation and be fine. Is this really the solution? If so, what am I missing? If not, what is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My apologies if I have screwed up tags, formatting or the question itself, I'm not a regular poster here :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5010" LastEditorUserId="5010" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T13:49:53.190" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T14:25:00.103" Title="Why is this the solution?" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22901" CreationDate="2015-02-06T14:25:00.103" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key is that killing the black stones doesn't give White an eye.  After White captures the two stones, Black will throw in at the same place he played in #3.  White can capture that stone too, but later in the game the stone above the capture will be placed in atari, and White will have to fill in the &quot;eye&quot; on the right.  Because that can happen, it is a false eye, and the White group is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T14:25:00.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22810" CreationDate="2015-02-06T17:04:10.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think is highly unlikely that you'll get an &quot;insider&quot; answer here. Your main question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;Is there any public information on how major sites price their cards?&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And an straight forward answer would be: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. Wizards of the Cost does not set prices on ANY card, it all comes down to how much people pay, supply and demand. Whenever a new set releases, I'd say there is some sort of standard pricing depending on the card rarity. This is why, very close to the release, you see most Planeswalkers cost around $20, and then those with a high demand go to around $40-$50 pretty quickly. It is with time and use of the cards, demand or performance of different decks, that prices settle at some point. For a while at least. It is easy to predict, for example, that the fetchlands that are now in standard are going to see their prices go through the roof once Khans rotates out of the format.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for automation, TCG has a price aggregator (think on how pricegrabber.com works), and they get information from different sources. They are not actually pricing anything, just showing you lowest prices. Most of this information (think of services that provide them) are public (for a price). So, technically, you can study the behavior on the price of different cards and kind of &quot;predict&quot; prices of similar, future cards, with some margin of error. At the end, the price of a card depends on perception of the value it can have on a given deck. And this is pretty hard to put on code. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11779" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T17:04:10.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22905" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T20:20:01.437" Score="1" ViewCount="1309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Sharpshooter&quot;&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter&lt;/a&gt;, sixty-some goblin tokens, and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Chirurgeon&quot;&gt;Goblin Chirurgeon&lt;/a&gt; on the field (all with haste). My opponent had an enchantment that kept me from directly attacking him (2 life or {W} for each attacker), so I wanted to use my Chirurgeon's ability (&amp;quot;Sacrifice a Goblin: Regenerate target creature&amp;quot;) to kill a creature which will untap my Sharpshooter. Do I NEED a regenerate target to sacrifice a goblin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11782" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T20:38:32.353" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T20:57:28.617" Title="MTG. Using goblin chirurgeon's ability only for sacrifice" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22905" CreationDate="2015-02-06T20:22:31.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you must choose a valid target when activating a targeting ability. The ability says &quot;target creature&quot;, so you must target a creature. Any creature will do&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. Fortunately, you have plenty of valid targets (i.e. creatures), including your Goblin Sharpshooter and Goblin Chirurgeon (or even the token you are sacrificing, although that won't save it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following describes what happens in detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Goblin Sharpshooter activated ability targeting your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter activated ability resolves&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter deals one damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Goblin Chirurgeon's ability targeting Goblin Sharpshooter, sacrificing a token.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter's triggered ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter's triggered ability is placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter's triggered ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untap Goblin Sharpshooter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Chirurgeon's ability resolves.&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goblin Sharpshooter gains a regeneration shield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regenerating a creature grants it a shield that replaces its destruction the next time it would be destroyed that turn, if any. There's no requirement that you think it will be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless an ability prevents it (e.g. &quot;Protection from Red&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T20:57:28.617" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T20:57:28.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T21:45:44.913" Score="-1" ViewCount="9439" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically lets say I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Triton%20Shorestalker&quot;&gt;Triton Shorestalker&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent can't block. Can I then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Become%20Immense&quot;&gt;Become Immense&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Titanic%20Growth&quot;&gt;Titanic Growth&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if I attack with a creature that can be blocked and my opponent chooses not to can I then play Become Immense and Titanic Growth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11784" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T22:42:12.277" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T19:09:50.373" Title="Can I play two instants back to back?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22907" CreationDate="2015-02-06T21:50:57.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. There's no limit to the number of instants you can cast, other than having the mana available to pay for them. Is there anything in particular that made you think such a limit would exist? If you haven't done so, check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_magic_basic_rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic rule book&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your second question, yes, at the end of the &amp;quot;declare blockers step&amp;quot;, in which your opponent will have decided whether or not to block, each player then gets a chance to cast instants or activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the basic rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An instant is just like a sorcery, except you can cast it just about any time you want,&#xA;even during your opponent’s turn or in response to another spell. Like a sorcery, an&#xA;instant has its effect, then you put it into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent decides which, if any, of his or her&#xA;untapped creatures will block your attacking creatures,&#xA;then they do so. If multiple creatures block a single&#xA;attacker, you order the blockers to show which is first&#xA;in line for damage, which is second, and so on. Players&#xA;can then cast instants and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are 2 ways to cast 2 instants during the same step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can cast the instants one at a time, waiting to cast the second until after the first resolves. Most commonly this is smarter, because you can see what your opponent does before deciding to cast the second one.&#xA;Or:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can cast the second instant immediately after casting the first, in which case the second one you cast will resolve first. If you wish to do this, then you must state as you cast the first instant that you wish to retain priority, otherwise you are assumed to be passing it after casting the instant. You would need to do this if, for example, you wanted to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fork&quot;&gt;Fork&lt;/a&gt;, targeting your first instant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T19:09:50.373" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T19:09:50.373" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:10:29.160" Score="2" ViewCount="693" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say my friend attacks with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chief%20of%20the%20Edge&quot;&gt;Chief of the Edge&lt;/a&gt; and two other Warrior creatures, and I declare three blockers, one on each creature. If Chief of the Edge dies due to combat damage from blockers, when do the other Warriors lose the +1/+0? Is it instantly and now his 2 other creatures are normal again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11784" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T01:28:43.180" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T01:28:43.180" Title="When does Chief of the Edge die?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22909" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:15:44.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;All combat damage happens simultaneously, and creatures who have taken lethal damage will die almost immediately after damage is assigned (before the next time any player could do anything else; when state-based actions are checked). This means that the warrior creatures will still do the 1 extra damage during the combat which causes &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chief%20of%20the%20Edge&quot;&gt;Chief of the Edge&lt;/a&gt; to die, and will lose the +1/+0 immediately after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T22:15:44.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22909" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:16:33.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability on Chief of the Edge is a static ability. It only applies while he is on the battlefield. The instant that Chief dies, the effect created by his ability ceases to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.3d&lt;/strong&gt; [...] Static abilities create continuous effects which are active while the permanent with the ability is on the battlefield [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Chief of the Edge takes lethal damage, then the next time state-based actions are checked, he will die, and all other warriors will instantly lose the +1/+0 granted by his ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-06T22:22:29.517" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T22:22:29.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22909" CreationDate="2015-02-06T22:24:53.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking &quot;when does the Chief die&quot; but honestly, you need to tell us that, as ironic as that sounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is &quot;nothing fancy&quot; and there's just his attackers and your blockers, then all his attackers will all get the +1/+0 bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you kill the Chief with First Strike damage, or if you kill him with an instant or an ability on your Declare Blockers step, then by the time his other warriors do damage the Chief isn't around anymore, so they wouldn't get the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So really, it all depends on which step the Chief dies on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T22:24:53.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21288" CreationDate="2015-02-06T23:39:37.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shuck-shuck is &lt;strong&gt;usually&lt;/strong&gt; a good American strategy. But there are always exceptions to the rule, stone-scissors-paper style. This game is an exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan vs. US is seldom played by the Axis, because it is the least promising (as discussed in the next paragraph). Instead, the Axis typically concentrate on either the UK or Russia, to make use of their advantage on the Eurasian continent, and hope that the US remains isolated. To counter this, theorists like Don Rae developed the shuck-shuck strategy for the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ordinarily, Japan vs. US is the least favorable to the Axis, because Japan starts with 25 IPCs, versus 36 for the US. (I'm using the strengths of the Classic edition.) This will change to 29 for Japan vs. 32 for the US after Japan captures the two US-controlled Chinese territories. That's a pretty even match that should lead to a stalemate. Then the UK (30 IPCs) and Russia (24 IPCs) have a decided advantage in Europe against Germany's 32 IPCs. (If Japan focused on Eurasia, the Axis would have an advantage of 57 to 54 IPCs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the UK should run shuck-shuck, or build a factory in South Africa, anything to divert the Germans from Russia, and let the U.S. fight Japan. Instead, the U.S. soldiers involved in shuck-shuck would have done better to defend their homeland. In essence, the allies lost because they traded the whole US for Japanese Asia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is noteworthy that in axis and allies, America is at a fraction of its historical strength (more like 90 than 36). In the &quot;real war,&quot; America had the potential of pursuing a European-based strategy, shuck-shuck or another one, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; a Pacific war against Japan. In the game, it has to be a choice of one or the other, and America made the wrong choice in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-06T23:39:37.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22914" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-06T23:56:33.220" Score="3" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, suppose there are two American armies and two Soviet armies defending American-owned Sinkiang, which is attacked by the Japanese. The Japanese inflict two casualties and &quot;back off.&quot; Who absorbs those two casualties, or are they split one and one between the Americans and the Soviets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My way of playing is that the owning power (America in this case) absorbs casualties until they are wiped out, then the allies absorb the remainder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of the rule books for the different variations say differently? If so, what do they say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T00:07:14.583" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T16:57:40.790" Title="In axis and allies, how are casualties allocated when two allies both defend a single zone?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22915" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:19:56.067" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T02:19:56.067" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T02:19:56.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22916" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:19:56.067" Score="0" Body="City of Horror is a backstabbing survival-horror game. As in classic zombie movies, a shambling horde is invading the city. The goal is to survive the assault. (Un)fortunately, surviving often means sacrificing some of your fellow players to the undead..." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T07:41:38.650" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T07:41:38.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22917" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:21:25.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T02:21:25.270" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T02:21:25.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22918" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:21:25.270" Score="0" Body="A co-op game based on the third movie where players race against the clock in order to reach the top of the tower." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T07:41:41.907" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T07:41:41.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22919" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:22:49.970" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T02:22:49.970" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T02:22:49.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22920" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:22:49.970" Score="0" Body="A game where players lead a civilization from a single settlement to a mighty empire." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T07:41:57.540" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T07:41:57.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22921" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:27:37.170" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T02:27:37.170" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T02:27:37.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22922" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-07T02:27:37.170" Score="0" Body="A strategic game taking place during world war 2." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T07:43:28.490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T07:43:28.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22927" CreationDate="2015-02-07T06:35:37.093" Score="1" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;When in decline builder ghouls keep ofcourse their castles as in dictated on the tile back, but can they still build one new castle at each end of turn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10282" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T14:13:30.787" Title="In small world, can builder ghouls still build castles when they are in decline?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23005" CreationDate="2015-02-07T07:16:30.417" Score="2" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Civilization, at the end of a battle, do players discard defeated army cards or do the defeated army cards return to the players' hands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10282" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T02:06:36.923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:08:29.440" Title="In Civilization do players discard defeated army cards at the end of a battle?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22925" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22926" CreationDate="2015-02-07T11:42:54.700" Score="1" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please help me know the name of this game, i can't google it because i don't know what the proper keyword is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically Its a board game played mostly by 2 or more depending on the creator of the board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The theme can be a Tank battle , or ship battle or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play the Game by placing your pieces, example tanks on a Grid of numbers and letters, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objective of the game is to guess and destroy the pieces of your opponents are in the grid by guessing the Grid like A1, OR C3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11787" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2015-02-07T16:31:40.733" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T16:31:40.733" Title="Identify this grid placement/guessing game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22925" CreationDate="2015-02-07T11:52:48.330" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like Battleship: &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battleship_(game)&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battleship_(game)&lt;/a&gt; You place your ships on the grid and you have to guess the positions of the opponent's ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11625" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T11:52:48.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22923" CreationDate="2015-02-07T14:13:30.787" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no builder ability in the base set.  It sounds like you're talking about the Fortified ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Fortified state you can put down one fortress per turn &lt;em&gt;while active&lt;/em&gt;.  Here's the full text from the rulebook - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, as long as your Fortified Race&#xA;  is active, you may place 1 Fortress in a&#xA;  Region you occupy. The Fortress is worth 1&#xA;  bonus Victory coin at turn's end, unless you&#xA;  are In Decline. The Fortress also augments your Region's&#xA;  defense by 1 (just as if you had an additional Race token&#xA;  stationed there), even if you are In Decline.&#xA;  Remove the Fortress if you abandon the Region&#xA;  or when an enemy conquers it. There can only&#xA;  ever be a maximum of 1 Fortress per Region,&#xA;  and a maximum of 6 Fortresses on the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fortresses stay when you enter decline, but the ability to construct new does not.  And yes, it's the same even if you have Ghouls in decline; being able to continue attacking with them doesn't change how the ability works at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T14:13:30.787" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22928" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-07T18:33:42.473" Score="4" ViewCount="119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was on a cruise and we were given this quiz and I never got to find the answer.  I can see only 12 tricks.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Contract is 7NT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Opening Lead is the King of Spades&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;North&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;S A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;H KQJ109&lt;br&gt;&#xA;D 987654&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C 2  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;South&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;S Void&lt;br&gt;&#xA;H A&lt;br&gt;&#xA;D AKQJ10&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C A876543  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11788" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2023-03-05T23:17:16.087" LastActivityDate="2023-03-05T23:17:16.087" Title="Can This Hand be made?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22928" CreationDate="2015-02-07T23:44:39.040" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is doable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trick 1: South trashes Ace of Hearts, North takes with the Ace of Spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tricks 2-6: North leads (and takes) with 9-K of Hearts, South trashes 10-A of Diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tricks 7-12: North leads (and takes) with 4-9 of Diamonds, South trashes 3-8 of Clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trick 13: North leads Club 2 to South's Ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T23:44:39.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18884" CreationDate="2015-02-07T23:57:06.357" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot bestow enchantments during your opponents turn.  When you bestow an enchantment creature it is considered an aura.  Prophet only allows you to cast creature spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card Text:&#xA;Bestow 5BlueBlue (If you cast this card for its bestow cost, it's an &lt;strong&gt;Aura&lt;/strong&gt; spell with enchant creature. It becomes a creature again if it's not attached to a creature.)&#xA;Flying&#xA;You control enchanted creature.&#xA;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 and has flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11790" LastActivityDate="2015-02-07T23:57:06.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22933" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:04:56.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tokaido&lt;/em&gt; is a game about traveling the &quot;East Sea Road&quot; of Japan and competing to discover the most interesting things. It was first published by Funforge in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:54:30.883" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:54:30.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22934" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:04:56.997" Score="0" Body="A game about traveling the &quot;East Sea Road&quot; of Japan and competing to discover the most interesting things" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:54:20.360" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:54:20.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22935" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:15:35.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pandemic: Contagion&lt;/em&gt; is a card game where players compete to be the disease that manages to eliminate humanity. The English version was first published in 2014 by Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:15.113" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:15.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22936" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:15:35.947" Score="0" Body="A card game where players compete to be the disease that manages to eliminate humanity" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:54:23.500" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:54:23.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22937" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:20:54.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;7 Wonders: Babel&lt;/em&gt; is an expansion for &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/7-wonders&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;7-wonders&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;7-wonders&lt;/a&gt;, which is actually 2 expansion modules. Its English edition was first published in 2014 by Asmodee and Repos Production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Tower of Babel&lt;/em&gt; module encourages players to help construct a Tower of Babel by placing tiles which provide benefits or penalties for all players. A tower tile is purchased by discarding an Age card. Benefits and penalties continue until the end of the game or until the tile is covered up by another tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Great Projects&lt;/em&gt; module entices players to participate in the building of a great project for their cities. Each Great Project has a color and a participation cost, which can be paid after a building of the same color has been played. Participating earns the player a token. If there are any tokens remaining on the project at the end of an Age, those without a token suffer a penalty. But, if all tokens are taken, those with tokens get a reward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2017-07-11T00:18:28.213" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T00:18:28.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22938" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:20:54.737" Score="0" Body="An expansion for 7 Wonders, which adds the Tower of Babel and Great Projects modules." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2017-07-11T00:18:22.030" LastActivityDate="2017-07-11T00:18:22.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22939" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:30:13.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Battleship Galaxies&lt;/em&gt;, also called &lt;em&gt;Battleship Galaxies: The Saturn Offensive&lt;/em&gt; is a space combat miniatures game that is a spinoff of Battleship. It was first published in 2011 by Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:58.250" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:58.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22940" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:30:13.623" Score="0" Body="A space combat miniatures game that is a spinoff of Battleship." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:20.587" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:20.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22941" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:38:34.383" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Monopoly Cities&lt;/em&gt;, also called &lt;em&gt;Monopoly Cities 3D&lt;/em&gt;, is a version of Monopoly featuring 3D buildings of varying types and new rules. It was first published by Hasbro in 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:09.237" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:09.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22942" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:38:34.383" Score="0" Body="A version of Monopoly featuring 3D buildings of varying types and new rules." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:49.087" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:49.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22943" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:40:27.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lancaster&lt;/em&gt; is a game where players compete to by the closest ally of King Henry V of Lancaster. It was first published by Queen Games in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:54.633" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:54.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22944" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T01:40:27.573" Score="0" Body="A game where players compete to be the closest ally of King Henry V of Lancaster." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T19:19:08.110" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T19:19:08.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22949" CreationDate="2015-02-08T02:03:31.980" Score="4" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheapass Games' first game was &lt;a href=&quot;http://cheapass.com/unexploded-cow/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unexploded Cow&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which like many of the company's early products, consisted of just the basic cards and required players to scavenge other game components from elsewhere (e.g. getting money from Monopoly). Recently, they released Unexploded Cow Deluxe, which includes color cards and all of the game pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules differences between these two versions? Or is the only real difference the components included?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2017-05-13T08:16:34.203" LastActivityDate="2017-05-13T08:16:34.203" Title="Are there any rules differences between the two versions of Unexploded Cow?" Tags="|edition-comparison|unexploded-cow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22946" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T02:06:09.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unexploded Cow&lt;/em&gt; is a card game where players compete to blow up cows in order to win money. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://cheapass.com/node/48&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;first version&lt;/a&gt; containing black and white cards was released in 2001 and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cheapass.com/games/uxcowdeluxe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;deluxe version&lt;/a&gt; containing color cards was released in 2013. Both versions were published by Cheapass Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:54:27.643" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:54:27.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22947" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T02:06:09.107" Score="0" Body="A card game where players compete to blow up cows in order to win money." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T07:53:32.067" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T07:53:32.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22948" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22953" CreationDate="2015-02-08T02:16:49.167" Score="3" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/em&gt; expansion of &lt;em&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/em&gt; includes a card called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Joining_the_Winning_Team&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Joining the Winning Team&lt;/a&gt;. Basically it's a mission where you have to sacrifice an ally at a number of places. On completion, you win the game and all other players lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of the fact that this is nigh impossible to complete (as of this writing, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzcGFQTWdvZW5jc1JwcHEzUEVZV1htUVE&amp;amp;hl=en_US#gid=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Statistics page&lt;/a&gt; says that only 11 of their nearly 13,000 recorded games have ended by its completion), but in the rare event that you might be able to pull it off, can the other players do anything to stop you? Can they attack you or anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T17:39:55.877" Title="Can other players try to stop you from completing Joining the Winning Team?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22945" CreationDate="2015-02-08T04:14:02.533" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cheapass Games did a fair bit of retooling the game.  The core is the same, but the mix of cards and costs is a bit different, and they've also altered the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ante used to include filling the Pot (for general play) and the Bank (a prize for whoever won the city game).  The Bank has been eliminated, and the game works with just the Pot and the 500 franc ante from each player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speaking of, all the amounts have been converted to &quot;francs&quot; to use the new tokens that are included.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The starting money is now 5000 francs, not $2000, but the ante is now 500 francs, and not $100.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Pot becomes empty in the old game, it stays empty, and no one can get money from it until more funds end up being put in through normal play.  In the new game, it can still run dry and fail to provide funds, but all players must re-ante if the Pot starts a turn empty.  Keeps the money flowing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;City cards in the old game just run number values from 1 thru 12.  Now they have varying values (the highest is now 6 or 7, more average towns), and a second effect (take money, get another cow, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A bomb roll simply used to count down from the right side of your field and then around the table until it matched a cow to explode, yours or someone elses.  It still does but now rolling a six forfeits the roll, you fail to find a bomb completely, and the player to your left gets a free roll using his field, as though it was their turn (yes, this means they can take a city on your turn, if you screw up the bomb roll).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of taking the bank for winning the City score, the game now ends in a Sudden Death roll-off.  Players keep doing bomb rolls and exploding cows until they earn out the last of the pot.  Winning the City score earns you the first roll.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the game remains the same.  The event cards like &quot;Natural Causes&quot; and special cows like spies, mechanics, and generals remain the same.  Some of the costs and values are tweaked slightly for balance, but that's it (sadly it looks like I won't be able to show card-by-card here, but there are several shots of the new game online, and Cheapass has released the original version for free as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/freegames/uxcow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;print-yourself-and-play&lt;/a&gt;).  So it's a polished up game, plus the remade art (which I have to mention is great and continues the hilarity of the theme) and much much better card stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastEditorUserId="10399" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T15:56:15.903" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T15:56:15.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22948" CreationDate="2015-02-08T17:39:55.877" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no direct way people could try to stop you. They can't attack you; there's nothing in the rules about players attacking players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are at least a few ways they could try to indirectly stop you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They can try to close gates and kill monsters before you can get to them, so that you won't have any trophies you could use to buy allies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They can deliberately leave monsters that'd block your path alive.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;They could try to equip themselves for the final battle and let the ancient one wake up quickly, giving you no time for your mission. The gate limit makes it pretty easy to let the ancient one wake up early, if you're feeling daring.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you do get close, they can try to make sure you can't get lost in time and space. If you try to hop in a gate that someone's about to close; they can decline to close those gates. So you'll be trying to get to 0 sanity/stamina in another world. To prevent that, they could also try to prioritize closing the gates to more dangerous other worlds before you're ready to get lost in time and space, so that when you get to that point, you'll probably just waste a few turns passing through. I suppose they could even try to heal you if they have the right character or item!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T17:39:55.877" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-08T19:18:12.800" Score="4" ViewCount="1541" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=391852&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hero's Blade&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. He plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yisan%2C%20the%20Wanderer%20Bard&quot;&gt;Yisan, the Wanderer Bard&lt;/a&gt; and attempts to attach Hero's Blade to it. In response, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and attempt to deal Yisan 3 damage and kill it before Hero's Blade is able to attach. My question is, am I able to do this? Can I cast Lightning Bolt so that its effect will resolve AFTER Yisan enters the battlefield but BEFORE Hero's Blade is able to be attached?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11800" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T20:19:59.540" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T20:19:59.540" Title="Magic the Gathering: Hero's Blade vs Lightning Bolt" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21382" CreationDate="2015-02-08T19:38:58.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have looked at this game critically and found that we agree with your assessment that there is too much luck. Furthermore, the penalties and rewards for that luck are too extreme the way the rules were written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DISCLAIMER: If you love Monopoly please stop reading this, you will love Boxcars. If you like games of strategy and planning, please continue reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is far too random, and doesn't offer as much as a viable means of strategy. Before I suggest to you possible alterations to the rules, we have to examine what's wrong with the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Too Much Luck&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Random starting location, random destination, moving a random number of spaces each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Double Jeopardy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to be traveling on someone else's rail lines, and you roll low, you are getting penalized AT LEAST double. Moving slower means increased number of turns, which means other players are gaining an advantage on movement alone. Since you are not on your lines, you are paying the bank or other players more for your crappy roll. It's not only possible but extremely likely that on a trip covering more than 10 spaces you will spend more than you make for the trip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Feels like Monopoly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monopoly is a good board game when you were 8. The same reason why people wouldn't want to play Monopoly is why you don't want to play this game. You will randomly get muscled out and there will be nothing you can do about it. No strategy, no plan, nothing. Just hope you get stuck in jail so you don't have to pay some stupid high rent because you went 3 laps around the board before you ended on a property you could buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more things we find to be a bit off but here are some rules we've tried that make the game less brutal. Consider using any or all of these, we have yet to find the perfect combination of these rules that allows for maximum strategy in such a random game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You pay for using someone else's lines once&lt;/strong&gt;. Once you decide to use a line that's not yours, you pay that person a 1 time fee. As long as you remain on that same line, you do not pay again, whether that's 1 turn or 10 turns. If you junction off onto another line, even another of the same person's lines, you pay again. You pay at each junction (think of it as a connection fee). What this does is it allows you to plan a route, at least initially, taking advantage of longer lines or lines that you may own. It just adds a lot more strategy. Optional: You may wish to keep the $1k per roll on un-owned lines as a tax to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You get to see your next destination before purchasing a line&lt;/strong&gt;. Normally you go to your destination, cash in, purchase route, then see where you are going. This way you can see where you are going and decide if you want to purchase any route in between where you are and where you are going.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll a random sector of the map, choose the city&lt;/strong&gt;. Perhaps you are headed to the southeast, but are blocked out of Miami entirely. It might be more cost effective to go to Atlanta cause you have a way in there. You won't get paid as much, but it will cost you less. Maybe you own lines into Miami, and it would be worth your time to go farther. This helps getting totally screwed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roll 2 destinations, pick one&lt;/strong&gt;. Still random but a little more forgiving.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Contracts&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. At the start of the game you get your start location, then roll 3 random destinations. Write them down and you get to pick which one you go to. When reaching that destination cross it off and you MAY roll another. The catch is you have to complete all the contracts you take, so eventually you will have to decide to stop adding to your list. At soon as you have the required money, and all destinations complete, you can then return to your home city and attempt to win. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We find these rules to help, why let a $x game sit on the shelf and never get played because of bad rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11799" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T19:38:58.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22954" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:15:17.960" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. Hero's Blade's ability triggers &quot;Whenever a legendary creature &lt;strong&gt;enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; under your control,&quot; which means that the order of events goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts Yisan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yisan finishes resolving and enters the battlefield. This causes the Hero's Blade's ability to go on the stack. At this point, Yisan is on the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You respond to the triggered ability with your Lightning Bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Lightning Bolt resolves, and kills Yisan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability resolves, and does nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, the Equip ability can only be activated &quot;whenever you could cast a sorcery,&quot; so your opponent would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be able to Equip the Hero's Blade in response to your Lightning Bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T20:15:17.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3668" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:18:17.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find only 2 disadvantages of precision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Opponents frequently interfere &amp;amp; sometimes psych with the only the desire to interfere. By using control count responses that take into account that interference, that interference is welcome. Thus the disadvantage becomes an advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Finding a Precision partner even in a very large club is a challenge. Most locals have years if not decades of experience with various forms of SA, play with with many different partners, fear that a whole new system would compromise their ability to remember which nuances of SA are played by whom, &amp;amp; are unwilling to partner someone with fewer master points. BBO doesn't make it easy to find a Precision partner. Therefore, a good deal of time crunching numbers, research, &amp;amp; thought are probably wasted. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11802" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T20:18:17.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22958" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22959" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:35:06.097" Score="0" ViewCount="2117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to MTG and I'm quite confused about when exactly &lt;em&gt;raid&lt;/em&gt; is triggered.&#xA;For instance, say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=mardu%20hordechief&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mardu Hordechief&lt;/a&gt; (which creates 1/1 tokens) and I tapped, let's say, 2 creatures to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly is his ability going to happen?&#xA;Is the raid ability triggered while/after the combat phase or even right after the declare attackers step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11801" LastEditorUserId="5912" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T22:53:38.063" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T22:53:38.063" Title="When does Mardu Hordechief's raid ability trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22958" CreationDate="2015-02-08T20:56:16.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think what's tripping you up is that there are two conditional statements involved — one is the trigger and the other is a condition that limits when the ability can work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Raid&lt;/em&gt; — When Mardu Hordechief enters the battlefield, if you attacked with a creature this turn, put a 1/1 white Warrior creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Raid ability is &lt;em&gt;triggered&lt;/em&gt; &quot;When Mardu Hordechief enters the battlefield.&quot; That's the only time you'll actually do any of the other stuff in that sentence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The action, however, is conditional — you only do it &quot;if you attacked with a creature this turn.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intervening &quot;if&quot; clauses are checked both when the ability triggers and when it's placed on the stack&lt;sup&gt;[CR 603.4]&lt;/sup&gt;, so it goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attack with some creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Mardu Hordechief on your second main phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the spell resolves, it puts Hordechief onto the battlefield. This triggers its ability, but only because you attacked this turn. (If you hadn't attacked this turn, it wouldn't trigger at all.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Its triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the triggered ability is about to resolve, you check the intervening &quot;if&quot; condition again. For this particular ability, this check can't fail, so it goes on to resolve, and you get a token. (If the check were to fail, the triggered ability would be removed the stack without resolving.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T02:11:16.337" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T02:11:16.337" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22960" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-08T22:51:41.173" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-08T22:51:41.173" LastActivityDate="2015-02-08T22:51:41.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22961" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-08T22:51:41.173" Score="0" Body="Mobile Frame Zero: Rapid Attack is a tactical combat game about planetary warfare to solve the resource struggles of an overstretched interstellar civilisation, which encourages use of LEGO models for its units." OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T13:53:45.197" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T13:53:45.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22928" CreationDate="2015-02-08T23:47:34.220" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a lesson in a technique called &quot;unblocking.&quot; And &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the hand can be made in a &quot;roundabout&quot; way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you should notice is that North has five tricks in hearts, from K down to 9. The thing that prevents you from taking those tricks is the &quot;blocking&quot; A in South's hand. So on the lead of the king of spades, declarer takes the ace of spades (one trick) in North and &quot;unblocks&quot; (discards) the ace of hearts from the South hand, thereby allowing North's hearts to &quot;run.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing you should notice is that North has six diamonds that can run, because they follow South's five HIGHER diamonds. But you need to get rid of South's diamonds, first. Fortunately, you can discard them on the KQJT9 of hearts. Then run your six diamonds from North, discarding 6 low clubs. Finally play the club 2 from North to South's ace. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have one spade, five hearts, six diamonds, and one club trick, 13 tricks in all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T00:08:45.450" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T00:08:45.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21251" CreationDate="2015-02-09T00:39:23.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's all a matter of diplomacy. In the situation you described, you are &quot;down but not out.&quot;&#xA;(The exception would be a two player game, which you lost, because your one opponent has &quot;everything else.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are multiple players, they would all do well not to attack you (for the time being), and concentrate on each other. If you receive the minimum of three armies per turn, you might not want to attack either, until you've had a chance to build back up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you need is a situation where there there is no player that is stronger than the sum of all the other players including you. In a three way game, that might be hard, because one player might get far enough ahead of the other player that you can't make up the difference. But the more players there are, the better chance you have to survive (or at least go down fighting), using diplomacy to maintain the balance of power, to the best of your ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T00:39:23.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22965" CreationDate="2015-02-09T02:27:21.817" Score="10" ViewCount="7274" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 2013 version of &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt; added a new card, the Contingency Planner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/c37AH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Contingency Planner card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gaming group has found this card very weak compared to the other roles for a couple of reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's ability to pull an event card from the discard pile only seems to happen a couple of times a game whereas the other roles are used almost every turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The role is more luck based than the other ones because the good cards don't always turn up, so although we try to pull a card whenever we can, sometimes it's just not really worth duplicating a less than ideal card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duplicating the cards tends to be unnecessary if you have certain roles. Building a research center for free is fine, but building it a second time is kind of pointless if we also have the Operations Expert.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've gotten to the point where we're ready to remove the Contingency Planner from the deck. But before we do, I'd like to know if there is anything we can do to make the Contingency Planner more useful and equal to the other roles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T02:32:29.073" LastActivityDate="2020-04-11T22:09:14.600" Title="Making the Contingency Planner more useful" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22964" CreationDate="2015-02-09T03:00:13.780" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;This role is one that will not always have the same level of power as others but depending on how the game goes it can easily be the most powerful role in the game. While some of the event cards may not seem as powerful based on the game setup it all depends on how they are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resilient Population &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to remove a second city card from the infection deck and having some control over when you do it can easily save a game by preventing a break out in an area with several cities in proximity &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Airlift&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to move a player such as the containment specialist to a bad area right before the infection phase or move another player to a research faculty to allow the curing of a disease can be very useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Forecast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being able to setup the next 6 cards in the infection deck a second time is never bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One Quiet Night&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the best reasons for this role is avoiding an infection phase a second time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Government Grant&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not always the most useful but even in a game with the operations expert if this role is in the same city as another player who can make the cure then the free research center is very nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Need to remember that this role gets its power based on playing all the event cards in a timely manner so that they can all be played again when needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2019-11-05T22:33:23.297" LastActivityDate="2019-11-05T22:33:23.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="22966" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22974" CreationDate="2015-02-09T06:13:53.570" Score="1" ViewCount="1095" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm never quite sure how this phase of each round is supposed to go...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, say during the quest phase you encounter a location with 2 quest points, and after you resolve the quest you come out +2. Do you put the progress tokens on the &lt;strong&gt;quest&lt;/strong&gt; card and then travel to the location? &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; do you travel to the location and put them on the &lt;strong&gt;location&lt;/strong&gt; card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11469" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T14:15:35.573" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:22:27.217" Title="Travel in the Lord of the Rings LCG?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22973" CreationDate="2015-02-09T06:25:51.740" Score="1" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you've successfully quested during the quest phase and come out +7, but you only need 3 more quest points to finish the current stage, do you put your extra 4 progress tokens on the quest card for the next stage or can you only make progress through one stage per round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11469" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T14:15:50.813" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:20:08.133" Title="Do progress tokens carry forward in the Lord of the Rings LCG?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22972" CreationDate="2015-02-09T06:31:07.957" Score="3" ViewCount="230" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you finish a stage in the Lord of the Ring LCG–whether it be by successfully questing or by a card effect–do you finish the current round before progressing to the next stage, or do you immediately travel to the next stage of the quest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11469" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T14:16:02.197" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:17:43.980" Title="When do you progress to the next stage in the Lord of the Ring LCG?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22970" CreationDate="2015-02-09T09:03:24.373" Score="0" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pre-amble&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So I am currently building a Blue &amp;amp; White &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Prowess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Prowess&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Heroic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heroic&lt;/a&gt; deck in Standard. The idea that I can boost my heroic creatures with instants and auras and reap the benefit across all my prowess creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Possible combo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I'm interested to know if the below combination will work. The &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLotus-Eye%20Mystics%5d&quot;&gt;Lotus-Eye Mystics&lt;/a&gt; would be in the graveyard, and then I would play Rally the Ancestors. In an ideal scenario the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRally%20the%20Ancestors%5d&quot;&gt;Rally the Ancestors&lt;/a&gt; would trigger the Lotus-Eye Mystics Prowess because it's an instant. Then I can return an enchantment aura back to my hand also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4rQyh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Lotus Eye + Rally&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumption&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am assuming that Prowess has to be on the battlefield for the effect to trigger, which means that Rally the Ancestors would return the Lotus-Eye Mystics to the battlefield, but because they were in the graveyard when the instant was cast, the Prowess effect cannot trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my assumption correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11768" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T23:34:17.937" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T23:34:17.937" Title="Will returning a creature trigger Prowess?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22969" CreationDate="2015-02-09T10:11:17.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The creature with Prowess has to be on the battlefield to trigger it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prowess is a triggered ability that only works while the card it's printed on is on the battlefield, i.e. as long as it's a permanent. Therefore, if you return Lotus-Eye Mystics with Rally the Ancestors, the Mystics will not get the Prowess trigger from that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will, however, get the enters-the-battlefield trigger from the Mystics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T10:16:25.303" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T10:16:25.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22977" CreationDate="2015-02-09T12:39:15.267" Score="9" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;In X-Wing, there are several ships (such as the Y-Wing) which use ion canons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If this attack hits the target ship, the ship suffers 1 damage and&#xA;  receives 1 ion token. Then cancel &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; dice results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the target ship has shields is the damage dealt to the target ship's shields or it's hull?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T13:40:56.093" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T16:06:43.153" Title="Does ion damage penetrate shields?" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22968" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:17:43.980" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You reveal the next stage of the quest as soon as you complete the previous one.  Depending on the quest, there can be advantages (or disadvantages) to doing this at a non-standard time, such as through Legolas's ability to add progress during combat, but this is intended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:17:43.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22967" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:20:08.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you place all progress tokens at once, so you can't get progress on the next stage of the quest by overcompleting the first one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:20:08.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22966" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:22:27.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have an &quot;active&quot; location, you place progress on it before you place them on the current quest.  But a location only becomes active when you travel to it.  If you just revealed the location, it is still in the staging area and not active, so you would put the progress on the quest.  You may then choose to travel to the location during the travel phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:22:27.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2015-02-09T14:45:36.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on the starting order, but generally speaking, going for maximum number of dice opportunities is not ideal according to my experience. Getting lots of varied income will force you to either make shitty 4-1 trades or risk losing cards when someone rolls 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best strategy according to me is to aim for one specific port and lots of income in the corresponding resource. This will let you complement whatever other resources you DO get to actually match the requirements for what you're going to build. This will let you buy whatever you want often enough while never losing resources to the robber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8509" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T14:45:36.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-09T15:04:05.963" Score="1" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the new heroes in Expansion #1 is Captain of the Guard, and he gets a bonus die when initiating attack in a new location. Does this extra die have to be assigned to a color of minion on that location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I move to a location with 1 red and 1 blue minion, I can roll 1 red and 1 blue die, plus 1 bonus (assume I choose a green die for my bonus). If this is my roll: Red 3; Blue 2; Green 5.  Can I use the green die to eliminate the blue minion? Can I  choose &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the roll, or do I have to assign a color to my bonus &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Elf Lord character has a similar bonus, but has to choose before the roll. The Captain of the Guard character card does not specify. We played a game last night with both of these characters, and for the Elf Lord, he chose before the roll. For the Captain, I used my bonus die as a wild card and assigned it based on the roll results. I want to know of I played correctly or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for official errata or clarification from the game designer. I've been told it exists, but have not found it for this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2899" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-02-09T16:12:14.920" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:54:39.867" Title="Does the bonus die for Captain of the Guard's Battle Steed ability have to be assigned a target color before the roll?" Tags="|defenders-of-the-realm|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22971" CreationDate="2015-02-09T16:06:43.153" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Ion Damage is handled as normal, plus an Ion token&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is addressed in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/x-wing/support/SWX01_XwingCoreRulebook_lowres.pdf&quot;&gt;core rules&lt;/a&gt; on page 16 under the heading &quot;Suffering Damage&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a ship suffers damage or critical damage, it suffers them &lt;strong&gt;one at a time&lt;/strong&gt; following these steps. ...&#xA;  1. &lt;strong&gt;Reduce Shields:&lt;/strong&gt; If there are any shield tokens remaining on the ship's card, remove one of the tokens and skip Step 2. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Emphasis theirs)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for receiving damage are separate from the rules for dealing damage, so unless the card specifically states that it bypasses shields, the targeted ship would receive the 1 point of damage following the normal rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T16:06:43.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13531" CreationDate="2015-02-09T16:40:10.470" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;em&gt;two ways&lt;/em&gt; you can go about collecting the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/edge_minisite_sec.asp?eidm=129&amp;amp;esem=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;expansions&lt;/a&gt;, one is &lt;strong&gt;order of release&lt;/strong&gt;, the second is &lt;strong&gt;chronological order of events&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple good resources for choosing what order to buy the expansions in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://talesfromthecards.wordpress.com/2013/09/13/new-player-buying-guide/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New Player Buying Guide (Updated January 2015)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This guy went through the effort of placing each expansion into chronological order of events according to the books, I've quoted his summary below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.fantasyflightgames.com/index.php?/topic/75663-play-chronology-quests-timeline/?p=734609&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Play Chronology / Quests Timeline&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h1&gt;To Summarize…&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;The Quests in Chronological Order&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Over the Hill and Under Hill&lt;/strong&gt; (2941 TA) [Gadalf: Sending an Hobbit to&#xA;  slay the last fire breathing dragon. What could possibly go wrong? On&#xA;  a totally unrelated sidenote, dang these are some good pipeweed!]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battle at Laketown&lt;/strong&gt; (2941 TA) [Bard: Stupid Dwarves, stupid fat Hobbit,&#xA;  and most of all stupid procrastinating weed addict wizard. In the end&#xA;  I did all the work and all saving laketown and all slaying Smaug.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shadow of Mirkwood&lt;/strong&gt; (3009 ~ 3017 TA) [Gandalf: Oh, Sauron is in action&#xA;  again? Ah oh… he must be searching for the One Ring….. I am kind of&#xA;  suspicious about Bilbo's ring. Maybe I will try and learn more about&#xA;  Bilbo's ring by questioning Gollum]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Core Set&lt;/strong&gt; (Spring/Summer 3009 TA) [Thranduil: Oh shizzle, the fortress&#xA;  of Dol Guldur, which White Council cleansed couple decades ago, is&#xA;  sending out evil vibes again. I better send warning to all nearby&#xA;  allies]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Khazad-Dum&lt;/strong&gt; (3009 TA Early Winter) [Elrond: I'm hearing a lot of&#xA;  reports about evil things stirring in the Misty Mountains and Mirkwood&#xA;  and such. But oddly no report came from Moria for… 15 years, that&#xA;  seems like a long time. Maybe I'll send someone to check them out, to&#xA;  see if they are doing okay.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dwarrowdelf&lt;/strong&gt; (3009 TA Winter) [Elrond: Sweety how was your journey over&#xA;  the Mountain? I know it was wintertime but Lorien was just too close&#xA;  to Dol Guldur. What? You were attacked by the Orcs? Come to think of&#xA;  it, the scouts I've sent to Moria hasn't returned yet. This is&#xA;  concerning… maybe I'll send another group to see Moria has something&#xA;  to do with increased Orc activity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Massing at Osgiliath / Heirs of Numenor&lt;/strong&gt; (3019 TA) [Sauron: I will&#xA;  launch multiple attacks against Gondor on various fronts to see how&#xA;  strong their defences are. Also, while they are busy defending my&#xA;  'attacks', I will sneak my Nazguls disguised as 'Black Riders' across&#xA;  the river Anduin in search for this Shire, Baggins to get my Ring&#xA;  back.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11469" LastEditorUserId="18585" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T15:14:49.540" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:14:49.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22980" CreationDate="2015-02-09T16:50:46.990" Score="10" ViewCount="6668" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Splendor, after you have collected enough bonuses to receive a visit from a noble, can you receive a visit from a second noble with the some of the same bonuses as the first, or do you need additional bonuses? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: say there are two nobles that both require 3 diamond bonuses, can you receive both nobles if you only have three diamond bonuses, or would you be required to have at least 6 diamond bonuses to receive them both (3 for each)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11469" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T13:57:29.960" Title="Can you be visited by more than one Noble in Splendor?" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22979" CreationDate="2015-02-09T17:06:26.250" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can, but not on the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of their turn, each player checks the noble tiles in&#xA;  order to determine if they’re receiving a visit from one of them.&#xA;  A player can be visited &lt;strong&gt;if they have (at least) the quantity and&#xA;  type of bonuses indicated on the noble tile&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all that matters is that you have at least 3 diamonds for a noble that requires 3 diamonds; there's no requirement to have an additional 3 for an additional noble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the rule limiting it to 1 noble per turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player has enough bonuses to be visited by more than one&#xA;  noble at the end of their turn, &lt;strong&gt;that player chooses the noble to&#xA;  be received&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T13:57:29.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T13:57:29.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8273" CreationDate="2015-02-09T18:19:16.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend inserted a small slither of black electrical tape inside the slider. This tightened the grip when applied and was invisible to the eye. I still find the sliders too short to align with the number, but this at least keeps them attached firmly!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11812" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T18:19:16.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5812" CreationDate="2015-02-09T20:08:41.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found these house rules.  Haven't played yet, but my wife and I are wanting to give it a try.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After shuffling the decks go through the doors and pick the first race and class and set them aside in a 3rd player’s spot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional: You can also set aside the first 5 monsters from the door deck which can be added to combat if the other physical player has a wandering monster card or a rule allows legal use of the monsters and meets the 3rd player condition.&#xA;This could also be done with + to either side in combat cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reshuffle the Doors and go through the treasures take out the first headgear, armor, footgear and legal hand weapons (one 2 hand or two 1 hand whichever comes first.) and set them into the 3rd player spot. reshuffle the treasure deck.&#xA;This player will be at level 3 to start the game and if elf will go up a level every time they assist in combat. Otherwise they can only go up a level by go up a level cards so the 3rd player cannot win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To use the 3rd player to help yourself in combat or to hinder your opponent you must roll a munchkin D6 and achieve a roll of 4 or greater. If you use the 3rd player to defeat a monster you must roll a Munchkin D6 again and on a roll of 5 or greater you keep all the treasure, if you roll 4 or below the treasure is cut in half randomly and upgrades are added to the 3rd player anything else is discarded. (Better items, go up a level, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As many 3rd players are you want can be used in the game. Or it can be determined by a random D6 roll for the total number of players in the game at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11814" LastActivityDate="2015-02-09T20:08:41.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22990" CreationDate="2015-02-09T22:52:15.417" Score="0" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to solve this tsumego, black is on the move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycpKQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it seems to me that white can kill black only if he wins the ko two times. Is that correct? After first ko win he will connect at 1-3 and after second win he will take at 3-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="1845" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T10:13:39.020" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T11:23:16.367" Title="Tsumego elementary problem 157" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23062" CreationDate="2015-02-10T02:01:36.537" Score="2" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chrononauts&lt;/em&gt; is a time travel game by Looney Labs and has been through five different versions at the time of this writing. Board Game Geek &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/815/chrononauts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;lists the versions&lt;/a&gt; as the first, second, and third printings, v1.4, and the second edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In trying to find out if there were any differences, I discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Chrononauts/versions.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a page from Looney Labs&lt;/a&gt;, which said that v1.4 added four new cards and icons for &lt;em&gt;The Gore Years&lt;/em&gt; expansion. But I haven't been able to find any other differences between the versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what are the differences between each version of Chrononauts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T03:28:54.900" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T03:28:54.900" Title="What is different in each version of Chrononauts?" Tags="|chrononauts|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22985" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-10T02:02:36.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chrononauts&lt;/em&gt; is a card game about time travelers trying to get to their home timeline and recover historical artifacts. It was first published in 2000 by Looney Labs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T06:02:48.867" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T06:02:48.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22986" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-10T02:02:36.393" Score="0" Body="A card game about time travelers trying to get to their home timeline and recover historical artifacts." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T06:02:59.713" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T06:02:59.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20538" CreationDate="2015-02-10T03:53:17.800" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it says in the rules for Shattered Empire, if you're using the Age of Empire variant, you have to use the Imperial II strategy card rather than Bureaucracy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11818" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T03:53:17.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22983" CreationDate="2015-02-10T10:48:52.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think black should play 2-1 then 3-1 and 1-3 are miai for b life, no need for ko&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11663" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T10:48:52.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22983" CreationDate="2015-02-10T11:23:16.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black lives:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B &#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ | . 1 . . X O . . .&#xA;$$ | O X . X X O . . .&#xA;$$ | . X X O O O . . .&#xA;$$ | O O O . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White kills unconditionally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W &#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ | . 2 1 . X O . . .&#xA;$$ | O X . X X O . . .&#xA;$$ | 3 X X O O O . . .&#xA;$$ | O O O . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work for Black, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W &#xA;$$ -------------------&#xA;$$ | . . 1 . X O . . .&#xA;$$ | O X 3 X X O . . .&#xA;$$ | 2 X X O O O . . .&#xA;$$ | O O O . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T11:23:16.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13265" CreationDate="2015-02-10T18:52:48.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you know which sets you have, there is an excellent tool for doing this exact thing at &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.dawnglare.com/?p=viz&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mtg.dawnglare.com/?p=viz&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Simply select the set(s) you own and click submit. You will get a picture of every card in those sets with the most expensive on the left &amp;amp; largest, with descending price towards the right. &#xA;Then you can simply leave that page up and flip through your collection looking for image matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dawnglare pulls prices from TCGPlayer.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T21:07:41.240" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T21:07:41.240" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22992" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-10T18:59:56.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-10T18:59:56.963" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T18:59:56.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22993" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-10T18:59:56.963" Score="0" Body="Card game similar to Rummy, played with two packs of cards.  Usually with four players in two partnerships who seek to 'meld' sets of seven cards of the same rank to clear their hand.  Variants exist for other numbers of players." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T06:18:01.453" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T06:18:01.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18426" CreationDate="2015-02-10T23:36:49.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;i would suggest you look into +1 Ogust (2H) wherein opener responds +1 = bad hand bad suit, +2 = bad hand good suit, +3 = good hand bad suit, +4 = good hand hand good suit. assuming a 5-11 weak 2, i would conclude i had a good hand &amp;amp; suit &amp;amp; respond 3D. partner then can choose between 3NT 4H &amp;amp; 5D. in duplicate responders 1st bid &amp;amp; openers 2nd bid must be alerted.   keng&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11802" LastActivityDate="2015-02-10T23:36:49.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="22996" CreationDate="2015-02-11T00:16:37.773" Score="4" ViewCount="5783" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on a blue/black deck with some cards that have Islandwalk and I'm trying to find cards that can force an opponent to control an island. I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=278198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stormtide Leviathan&lt;/a&gt; but I was looking for something less costly that can exchange one of my Islands for one of their lands or just give them an island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:53:15.737" Title="What cards can give an opponent control of an Island so I can use Islandwalk on them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22995" CreationDate="2015-02-11T00:30:44.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an artifact that slowly turns all lands into Islands: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Fountain&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Fountain&lt;/a&gt;. There are also a few auras that turn the enchanted land into an Island (or any type, including Island): &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Convincing%20Mirage&quot;&gt;Convincing Mirage&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Mirage&quot;&gt;Lingering Mirage&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373580&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nylea's Presence&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phantasmal%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Terrain&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sea%27s%20claim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sea's Claim&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spreading%20Seas&quot;&gt;Spreading Seas&lt;/a&gt;. There is also a sorcery that turns a land into an Island, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=142354&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Aquitect's Will&lt;/a&gt;. Some other cards that can turn lands into any basic land type, including Island, are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystic%20Compass&quot;&gt;Mystic Compass&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dream%20Thrush&quot;&gt;Dream Thrush&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusionary%20Terrain&quot;&gt;Illusionary Terrain&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jinx&quot;&gt;Jinx&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moonbow%20Illusionist&quot;&gt;Moonbow Illusionist&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reef%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Reef Shaman&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sea%20Snidd&quot;&gt;Sea Snidd&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shimmering%20Mirage&quot;&gt;Shimmering Mirage&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tideshaper%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Tideshaper Mystic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22becomes%20an%20island%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;several creatures&lt;/a&gt; turn lands into Islands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dreamwinder&quot;&gt;Dreamwinder&lt;/a&gt; temporarily turns a land into an Island at the cost of sacrificing an Island. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kukemssa%20Serpent&quot;&gt;Kukemssa Serpent&lt;/a&gt; does the same.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Floodchaser&quot;&gt;Floodchaser&lt;/a&gt; temporarily turns a land into an Island at the cost of a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sealock%20Monster&quot;&gt;Sealock Monster&lt;/a&gt; permanently turns a land into an Island when it becomes monstrous.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Streambed%20Aquitects&quot;&gt;Streambed Aquitects&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tidal%20Warrior&quot;&gt;Tidal Warrior&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tundra%20Kavu&quot;&gt;Tundra Kavu&lt;/a&gt; can both tap to temporarily turn a land into an Island.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also cards that you can use to make an opponent control one of your Islands, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bazaar%20Trader&quot;&gt;Bazaar Trader&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Donate&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gauntlets%20of%20Chaos&quot;&gt;Gauntlets of Chaos&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Political%20Trickery&quot;&gt;Political Trickery&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shifting%20Borders&quot;&gt;Shifting Borders&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shifting%20Loyalties&quot;&gt;Shifting Loyalties&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sky%20Swallower&quot;&gt;Sky Swallower&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Plotter&quot;&gt;Vedalken Plotter&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zedruu%20the%20Greathearted&quot;&gt;Zedruu the Greathearted&lt;/a&gt;. You can also use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Yavimaya%20Dryad&quot;&gt;Yavimaya Dryad&lt;/a&gt; to search for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breeding%20Pool&quot;&gt;Breeding Pool&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tropical%20Island&quot;&gt;Tropical Island&lt;/a&gt; and put it into play under your opponent's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T16:53:15.737" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:53:15.737" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T04:18:00.447" Score="6" ViewCount="3159" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my friend casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rite%20of%20Replication&quot;&gt;Rite of Replication&lt;/a&gt; on one of his creatures. Right after that, I play an instant--&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flesh%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Flesh to Dust&lt;/a&gt;--and destroy his creature. Would that counter the sorcery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, would I have to cast the instant right when he casts Rite of Replication?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or say something like &amp;quot;before you cast that spell I'm destroying your creature...&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11824" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T06:22:49.830" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T22:47:01.583" Title="Can I counter Rite of Replication by destroying the copied creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="22999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22998" CreationDate="2015-02-11T04:26:00.577" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the Rite of Replication would fail if you destroy the creature it's targeting. It plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent casts Rite of Replication targeting their creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast Flesh to Dust &lt;em&gt;in response to&lt;/em&gt; Rite of Replication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your Flesh to Dust resolves, and their creature dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent's Rite of Replication tries to resolve, but since the creature it targeted is no longer on the battlefield, it doesn't resolve because of rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;608.2b&lt;/a&gt;, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal [...] If all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal, the spell or ability doesn’t resolve. It’s removed from the stack and, if it’s a spell, put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2022-09-15T22:47:01.583" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T22:47:01.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23000" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23001" CreationDate="2015-02-11T04:41:01.923" Score="1" ViewCount="7201" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=turn%20to%20frog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; changes a creature's &lt;em&gt;base&lt;/em&gt; power and toughness to 1/1. Does that mean if target creature has a +1/+1 counter when &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=turn%20to%20frog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; is cast, it becomes 2/2? If it has -1/-1 counter on it, would &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=turn%20to%20frog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; effectively destroy it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the same apply to enchantments or equipment that affect the creature's power/toughness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11513" LastEditorUserId="11513" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T04:48:59.630" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T19:35:51.553" Title="When Turn to Frog changes a creature's base power/toughness to 1/1 do any affects that change creature's power and toughness still apply?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23000" CreationDate="2015-02-11T07:04:25.460" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, power/toughness modifications, including counters, apply on top of the base power/toughness exactly as you described in the question. Turn to Frog originally just said &amp;quot;becomes a 1/1&amp;quot;, but along with many other cards, got the &amp;quot;base power and toughness&amp;quot; wording to help clarify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's actually a specific order for applying those modifications as part of the layer system, but generally you don't need to know any details, just start with the base and add the rest. In case it does come up, here are the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3. Within layer 7, apply effects in a series of sublayers in the order described below. Within each sublayer, apply effects in timestamp order. (See rule 613.6.) Note that dependency may alter the order in which effects are applied within a sublayer. (See rule 613.7.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3a Layer 7a: Effects from characteristic-defining abilities that define power and/or toughness are applied. See rule 604.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied. Effects that refer to the base power and/or toughness of a creature apply in this layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3c Layer 7c: Effects that modify power and/or toughness (but don’t set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value) are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3d Layer 7d: Power and/or toughness changes from counters are applied. See rule 121, “Counters.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3e Layer 7e: Effects that switch a creature’s power and toughness are applied. Such effects take the value of power and apply it to the creature’s toughness, and take the value of toughness and apply it to the creature’s power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T19:35:51.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14808" CreationDate="2015-02-11T09:25:14.200" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another measure of a good Scrabble game, used amongst serious tournament players: &lt;strong&gt;equity points loss&lt;/strong&gt;. Let me explain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As another commenter highlighted, sometimes strategy determines that you should play defensively and get lower score instead, in which case high-score may not measure how well the player plays (if that's your definition of good/quality, as opposed to excitement). Similarly, a game where a player has lousy tiles but played well given the circumstances may score lower than one where a player has abundance of easy bingos and can afford to miss one or two good plays and still win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If what you want to measure if how well the player plays, one other way is to &lt;strong&gt;benchmark it against the theoretical best play&lt;/strong&gt;. Usually what is used is the play made by a powerful Scrabble-playing software in similar circumstances. This is a common practice amongst serious Scrabble tournament players who are trying improve their play quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of popular software that can be used for this are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quackle.org&quot;&gt;Quackle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.codehappy.net/elise/&quot;&gt;Elise&lt;/a&gt;. I personally use Quackle so my explanation will be based on that, but the same concept applies for all software (and Elise plays better, albeit slower, than Quackle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I do is I will key in the racks (i.e. the 7 letters held by a player) for every turn, and also the actual move played, into Quackle. I will ask Quackle to also choose its optimum play (or list of possible plays, ranked in descending order from the best). Quackle can then run a simulation on what happens for the various plays, and calculate the &lt;strong&gt;equity point&lt;/strong&gt; for each move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equity point is the nett point for a move, instead of the score itself. By nett point usually it means the score, minus the score of the opponent's reply, plus my score for the next move. This will account for both defence (reducing opponent's score) and tactics (sacrificing current score for me to score bigger next move). Since Quackle can calculate equity points for all moves, I can then compare the equity difference between my move and Quackle's best move. The number of equity point my move is lower than Quackle's best move's equity point, is the &lt;strong&gt;equity loss&lt;/strong&gt;. The lower the equity loss, the better the play was. Sum up the equity loss for each play, and you have the equity loss for the whole game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 0 equity loss means a perfectly-played game (even if it's one which is lost to an opponent with better luck in that particular game). This is rare but has been achieved by a few top-flight players. I myself would be very happy with an equity loss below 50 for a whole game. To give a bit of a sense, missing a bingo can easily lead to equity loss of 50 in a single move. Similarly, failing to restrict opponent from scoring an extra 5 points each turn may add up over the 10 moves to be a 50 point loss (not accounting yet for suboptimal scoring on my part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two flaws to this approach of benchmarking against a software:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it assumes the software used plays a perfect game. They don't - Elise&#xA;is better than Quackle, for example, and occasionally top players&#xA;have identified a better move than the software can (typically for&#xA;very unorthodox situations). But by and large, it's safe to say vast&#xA;majority of the times, measuring loss of equity is a good indication&#xA;of quality of play in a Scrabble game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it takes effort to get the figure. One must key in the information&#xA;into a software to do its calculation. Serious players may put in the&#xA;effort, but casual players won't have this information and may prefer&#xA;a measure that can be seen at a glance (e.g. score).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T09:25:14.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15402" CreationDate="2015-02-11T17:54:05.477" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;although a weak NT advocate (10-14 without a 5+ Major) I urge you to consider a 14+ - 17 or even 14+ - 18-.&#xA; when the range for all minimum openers is identical, an opener that qualifies to open 1M &amp;amp; NT will never mislead partner in terms of shape &amp;amp; strength. further, that range would also apply to mini Roman, Flannery, gambling 3NT, &amp;amp; NAMYATS is used.   keng&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11802" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T17:54:05.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22924" CreationDate="2015-02-11T20:16:29.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules of the base game (p. 25), eliminated unit cards are discarded and put face up under the appropriate deck on the market board.  Any unit cards not eliminated during the battle return to their owners (this is true for both the winner and the loser of the battle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5961" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T02:08:29.440" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:08:29.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22759" CreationDate="2015-02-11T21:33:08.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not professional games but they are between very strong players:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dcook.org/compgo/9by9_experiments.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dcook.org/compgo/9by9_experiments.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has tons of games:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gobase.org/9x9/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gobase.org/9x9/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2015-02-11T21:33:08.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-11T22:51:05.083" Score="2" ViewCount="651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vorinclex%2C%20Voice%20of%20Hunger&quot;&gt;Vorinclex, Voice of Hunger&lt;/a&gt; commander deck casually with friends. If one of my opponents plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Control&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt; (or something similar) and takes control of Vorinclex, do the triggered abilities now benefit my opponent and hurt me? That is, does it help its controller or the owner?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since my opponent tapped lands to play Mind Control while Vorinclex was still mine, I think the lands he tapped to cast Mind Control stays tapped next turn. Is my thinking here correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11832" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-02-11T23:09:28.333" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T20:22:53.093" Title="Does Vorinclex help its controller or its owner?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23007" CreationDate="2015-02-11T23:00:30.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All instances of the word &lt;em&gt;&quot;you&quot;&lt;/em&gt; on an ability refer the controller of the source of that ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.5.&lt;/strong&gt; The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an opponent gains control of Vorinclax, then that opponent gets extra mana from tapping lands, and yours do not untap during your untap step. In other words, Vorinclax controlled by an opponent hurts you and helps your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your opponent taps lands to pay for Mind Control, you control Vorinclax. Those lands will not untap during your opponent's next untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T20:22:53.093" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T20:22:53.093" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23010" CreationDate="2015-02-12T04:01:10.567" Score="1" ViewCount="1155" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anafenza%2C%20the%20Foremost&quot;&gt;Anafenza, the Foremost&lt;/a&gt; and one other creature do I get to place a +1/+1 counter on the other creature or does it have to be tapped before combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10108" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T04:17:26.543" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:12:14.023" Title="When do you place the +1/+1 counter for Anafenza?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23009" CreationDate="2015-02-12T04:17:08.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can put the +1/+1 counter on any creature that is tapped, including a creature that tapped to attack. The situation plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You declare which of your creatures are attacking, including Anafenza and another creatures. You tap those creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anafenza's triggered ability goes on the stack, and you choose the target. At this point, you can choose any other tapped creature, including one that just tapped to attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability resolves, and the creature gets a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T04:17:08.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12183" CreationDate="2015-02-12T10:32:45.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may interrupt the figures movement &lt;strong&gt;in any place between the starting point and ending point&lt;/strong&gt;. Including the starting and ending points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be argued &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/news/Civilization%20FAQ_v2.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;By the official FAQ (v.2.0)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q:&#xA;  If a player has the&#xA;  Navigation&#xA;  tech and is moving a figure&#xA;  across water but &lt;strong&gt;cannot end in water&lt;/strong&gt;, and his opponent&#xA;  stops that figure’s movement in a water square using the&#xA;  resource ability on the&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Communism&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  tech, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A:&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;The figure stops in the water square&lt;/strong&gt;. In this case, the&#xA;  resource ability on the&#xA;  Communism&#xA;  tech overrides the rule&#xA;  that figures cannot end their movement in water&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the moving player was &lt;em&gt;intented to move from the other side of the lake/river to the other side&lt;/em&gt;. The movement was &lt;em&gt;interrupted&lt;/em&gt; with the spy &lt;strong&gt;between the starting and the ending point.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In practice&lt;/strong&gt;, if for example my friend is attacking me in his turn, coming from 5 tiles away and says &quot;&lt;em&gt;draw your cards, I'll attack you&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, I would respond &lt;em&gt;&quot;hold on a second, mate. I'll got a spy in you camp.. ;).Now just say that which route you used to come over here..?&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. He now shows the route and I use my spy and say &quot;&lt;em&gt;This is the place where my spy came in and interrupted your movement&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/Itchi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Itchi&lt;/a&gt;s huge summary of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/98422/civilization-summary-official-and-unofficial-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official and Unofficial rules and clarifications&lt;/a&gt; in BGG has more notes on the Communism tech. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T10:32:45.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22803" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:07:37.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no room for interpretation. You must discard them both (or all if you have half-breed, super-munchkin or equivalents).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Any race or class &lt;strong&gt;card&lt;/strong&gt; in play&quot; would mean you get to pick one to discard, and discard that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Any race or class &lt;strong&gt;cards&lt;/strong&gt; in play&quot; means you have to discard all cards in play that meet the criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:07:37.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23009" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:12:14.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the declare attacker step you chose with creatures attack. Then after you chose all creatures who attack this turn, you put Anafenza's trigger on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While putting the ability on the stack, you have to chose a legal target, which is another tapped creature. This can be a creature tapped prior to attacking or a creature that you just declared as an attacker. If no target can be chosen, the ability cannot be put onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11675" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:12:14.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:13:27.723" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's something in the rules allowing you to sell Get Out Of Jail Free cards to other players. Hence they must be transferred to another player if they bankrupt you. But they don't have a &quot;face value&quot; as such - they are worth $50 to someone in jail and $0 to anyone else; hence they are not counted in scoring for the quick game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:13:27.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12183" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:14:41.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spy operates to prevent movement into the first &lt;strong&gt;land&lt;/strong&gt; square that it controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your piece is starting on land, your spy can prevent it from moving to any adjacent land square, thereby &quot;freezing&quot; it in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your piece is starting on sea, the spy can prevent it from &quot;landing&quot; (that is reaching any available land square). It has to remain at sea, overriding other rules that say that it is not supposed to remain at sea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:14:41.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23007" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:17:59.660" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a rule of thumb - always assume controller unless the card says otherwise&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11835" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:17:59.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20657" CreationDate="2015-02-12T14:39:29.777" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't got the expansion (only the original game), but I've had a few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Duplicates. If there are existing cards in the deck which you find&#xA;are key and don't have a duplicate, consider making another of those&#xA;available. I'm specifically thinking of the cards that score 3VPs on a 6-development, but there's only one copy of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copying but changing colour. If you find there's a really&#xA;useful Mining card, but no equivalent for Alien, you could consider&#xA;making an Alien version of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Looking at existing cards' limits.&#xA;e.g. If you're making a 6-development, look at what the maximum&#xA;points it's possible to score with the existing ones, and make sure&#xA;the ones you make don't exceed that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T14:39:29.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22995" CreationDate="2015-02-12T15:52:23.897" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ultimate troll card beckons you - &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141996&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Puca's Mischief&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11835" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-12T16:39:32.290" LastActivityDate="2015-02-12T16:39:32.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-13T13:18:53.763" Score="5" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a runner, if I am tagged and the corp spends a click to destroy a resource of mine, if the resource can be trashed for some good, may I trash it before it gets discarded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(as an example of such a resource: Tallie Perrault)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11845" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T16:13:31.007" Title="Android netrunner: may I trash a card before I am forced to discard?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23019" CreationDate="2015-02-13T13:39:56.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the Runner may not voluntarily trash Resources or Hardware, but may be required (or permitted) to do so via other card effects (e.g. Aesop's Pawnshop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only cards the Runner can trash voluntarily are programs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner can choose to trash any number of his installed programs at the beginning of an &gt; install program action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2015-02-13T13:39:56.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23019" CreationDate="2015-02-13T15:57:32.007" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No because, unlike magic, Netrunner doesn't have a stack. Situations resolve in order the based on who's turn it is. If the corp spends a click to trash your resource you cannot &quot;as a response&quot; trash the resource for its ability. It is the corps turn so their click goes through first and by the time a paid ability window gets around for you to use the ability your resource is already gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As Andrew mentioned in the comments, there is one exception to this. Cards that have prevent or avoid as a &quot;keyword&quot; (most of these are related to damage and/or tags) CAN be used as a response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastEditorUserId="13520" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T16:13:31.007" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T16:13:31.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23032" CreationDate="2015-02-13T21:33:27.953" Score="0" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Civilization &lt;em&gt;Fame and Fortune&lt;/em&gt; expansion, a player may disband his army/scout figure in one of his cities. Disbanding a army figure is called &lt;em&gt;fortification&lt;/em&gt;, and this gives an additional one-time-use +2 combat bonus. Discarding a scout is called &lt;em&gt;sending a caravan&lt;/em&gt;, and it gives a one-time-use +2 production to the city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a legal move to discard scout/army figures voluntarily and without benefits to an already fortified/'caravanicated' city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T11:20:09.323" Title="Fortifying an already fortified city (or placing a caravan in a city with a caravan)" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23081" CreationDate="2015-02-13T21:48:31.537" Score="3" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook of Civilization (p.26) it says, that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player declares which of their cities the scout is &quot;sending&quot; the square to &lt;strong&gt;during the Start of Turn Phase&lt;/strong&gt;, and all the icons in that square (including trade, production, culture, coins and resources) are then considered to in that city's outskirts for the rest of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases in our play groups we forget to declare the cities at each 'Start of Turn Phase'. Then, we declare the cities at the 'City management Phase'. This is sometimes even an agreed rule, because it makes the 'Start of Turn Phase' a much faster. That is because then you will not have to plan the whole round beforehand at the 'Start of Turn Phase'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason that the decision for the &quot;home city&quot; of the scout should be decided at the 'Start of Turn Phase' and not at the 'City Management Phase'? Would it harm the game somehow, if the decisions are made at the 'City Management Phase'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:12:19.877" Title="Why to declare the city a scout is sending goods at the &quot;Start of the Turn Phase&quot;?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23026" CreationDate="2015-02-14T01:34:17.420" Score="0" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the green Mosque tile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wxdrw.png&quot; alt=&quot;Green tile&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pegasus.de/fileadmin/_downloads/regeln/englisch/Istanbul_-_Anleitung_gb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When using one of the three Warehouses &lt;code&gt;2&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;4&lt;/code&gt;, you may pay 2 Lira to gain &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; additional good of any type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn, &lt;strong&gt;may you use this ability more than once?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the yellow tile include &quot;Once on your turn&quot;, and the rules for the red tile say &quot;(1x)&quot;, so one would guess that the rules for the green tile would include a restriction like that &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; it would be limited. However, the &quot;1&quot; (in &quot;1 additional good&quot;) is printed in bold, while the &quot;2&quot; (in &quot;2 Lira&quot;) is not. Is this a hint that you can only ever get one good per turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T03:08:29.770" Title="Can you use the green Mosque tile more than once per turn?" Tags="|istanbul|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23025" CreationDate="2015-02-14T01:34:17.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1188290/green-mosque-tile-limited-once-turn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread on boardgamegeek.com about the same question&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can use this ability only once per turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grzegorz Kobiela (who is credited as English translator of &lt;em&gt;Istanbul’s&lt;/em&gt; rules) and André Bronswijk (who &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/16054823#16054823&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;works for&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;Istanbul’s&lt;/em&gt; publisher &lt;em&gt;Pegasus Spiele&lt;/em&gt;) &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/16059170#16059170&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;both&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/18125380#18125380&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;confirmed&lt;/a&gt; this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reasoning is: You can use this ability &lt;strong&gt;when &lt;em&gt;using&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; a Warehouse, and you only use a Warehouse once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It’s probably an oversight that a clarifying &quot;1x&quot; is missing in the rules for the green tile (or that it was added to the rules for the red tile, which follows the same logic).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(For reference, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1319526/two-questions-about-mosque-tiles&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;another thread&lt;/a&gt; about it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T03:08:29.770" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T03:08:29.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23027" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-14T01:44:37.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Istanbul&lt;/em&gt; (2-5 players, 50 minutes) is a strategy board game, published in 2014, in which players take on the role of merchants and their assistants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has won the award &quot;Kennerspiel des Jahres 2014&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Links&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pegasus.de/istanbul/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official webpage (on pegasus.de)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/148949/istanbul&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Istanbul_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T12:56:47.973" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T12:56:47.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23028" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-14T01:44:37.033" Score="0" Body="A strategy board game for 2-5 players in which players take on the role of merchants and their assistants." OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T12:56:25.700" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T12:56:25.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22577" CreationDate="2015-02-14T06:35:15.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Act as if you would have moved your Merchant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you play this card while an Assistant is separated (from your previous turn), you &lt;strong&gt;pick this assistant up&lt;/strong&gt; and play the Place’s action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pegasus.de/fileadmin/_downloads/regeln/englisch/Istanbul_-_Anleitung_gb.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; say &quot;Your Merchant stays at his current Place but you have to use an Assistant again&quot;, however, &quot;use an Assistant&quot; does not necessarily mean to separate one. You also &lt;em&gt;use&lt;/em&gt; an Assistant if you visit a previously visited Place and pick this Assistant up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;References&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question gets discussed in these threads on BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1122376/some-questions-about-rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some questions about rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;André Bronswijk &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/14872147#14872147&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;confirms&lt;/a&gt; it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grzegorz Kobiela &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/15831032#15831032&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;confirms&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/15831395#15831395&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;explains&lt;/a&gt; it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1176879/bonus-card-which-lets-you-stay-where-you-are&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bonus Card, which lets you stay where you are&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1198220/need-clarification-about-do-not-move-your-merchant&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Need clarification about the &quot;Do not move your Merchant&quot; Bonus Card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ralph Bruhn &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/16233121#16233121&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;confirms and explains&lt;/a&gt; it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1270534/no-movement-card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;No movement card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ralph Bruhn &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/17617415#17617415&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;confirms&lt;/a&gt; it indirectly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T06:35:15.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23031" CreationDate="2015-02-14T06:45:32.803" Score="4" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have the tuba of charm, and you fight multiple monsters, do you take a loot for each monster escaped, or just one for the entire battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8129" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T10:39:25.440" Title="Munchkin: Tuba of charm loot" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23030" CreationDate="2015-02-14T10:31:24.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You draw only one treasure total if you manage to flee a battle with multiple monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question came up in the SJG-forum and was answered by one of the Munchkin editors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'll admit that the wording is unclear, but the INTENT was that you got one Treasure as you fled the combat, no matter how many monsters you fought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=75522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=75522&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5961" LastEditorUserId="5961" LastEditDate="2015-02-14T10:39:25.440" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T10:39:25.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23023" CreationDate="2015-02-14T11:20:09.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. This was covered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/news/Civilization%20FAQ_v2.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ, v2.0&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Can a player disband an army figure in a city that already contains a fortification marker, or a scout in a city that already contains a caravan marker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes. However, the player does not add an additional fortification or caravan marker, or gain an additional bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5961" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-14T11:20:09.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23040" CreationDate="2015-02-14T17:03:44.873" Score="5" ViewCount="113" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new in this game and right now mounting my first unit: a Hive Crone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the box it contains the pieces for mounting either a Harpy or a Hive Crone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already decided I want the Hive Crone, but while mounting it I realized that some parts of the Harpy are coolest - I like the head and the tail more, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to google this but I exactly don't even know how to formulate the question...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is my attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any rules regarding mounting a unit with other parts and attempting to play with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I be able to go to a tournament with my Hive Crone with the Harpy head (that is, without a gun in the tongue, for example)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11854" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T21:01:51.743" Title="Mounting a Hive Crone with Harpy parts" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2015-02-15T02:48:51.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;i played a strong NT for years &amp;amp; subsequently switched to a 10-14 weak NT &amp;amp; have been moderately pleased but with 1 proviso. A suitable run out sequence must be available when a double is passed to opener. I suggest Eric Luft's &quot;How I Became a Life Master Playing the Weak NT&quot; for a good ROS.&#xA;that said, i still have reservations as the very common interference makes conventional responses difficult &amp;amp; often impossible. a 2nd issue is when the would be responder lacks the points or distribution to venture to the 2 level. I suspect that this is more of a condemnation of 5 card Majors than a weak or strong NT.&#xA;since I'm already a Precision advocate, I'm contemplating a return to 4 card majors with a  non conventional 1NT with 54+ minors 5.8433%. this fits well with an alerted, GCC legal, 0-9 HCP, 54+ minors 2NT which I've used for years. the 2 level is for single suited hands defined as a suit 3+ longer than all others. this is not a weak 2 or ACOL intermediate 2. thus the 1D opener covers all other hand types 16.6% thus denying a 4 card Major, 54+ minors, single suited hand &amp;amp; 15 or 16+ HCP.             keng&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11802" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T02:48:51.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21365" CreationDate="2015-02-15T03:02:26.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you play in ACBL sanctioned events the forcing pass is illegal per their GCC. since they banned it, it must have some merit. as a Precision player, this system was the forerunner for various Precision systems. unfortunately I'm unaware of any local events where it is legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for what it's worth, the GCC also bans the popular in Europe &amp;amp; UK multi 2D  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11802" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T03:02:26.533" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-15T04:55:33.020" Score="2" ViewCount="228" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Shadow Mage is summoned once one player uses his entire hand. However, in the vast majority of two-player games I have played we get so stocked up on weapons, shields, and treasure that we become invincible and never run out of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually just summon the Shadow Mage once the deck pile is emptied out to get the game over-with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this game properly balanced for two-players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T12:54:54.157" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T12:54:54.157" Title="Never-ending game with two players?" Tags="|balance|little-dungeon|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20838" CreationDate="2015-02-15T11:58:04.177" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check these ones &lt;a href=&quot;http://us.battlefoam.com/star-wars-x-wing/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://us.battlefoam.com/star-wars-x-wing/&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;They look pretty good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11856" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T11:58:04.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23033" CreationDate="2015-02-15T12:04:01.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make the head swap. There are 2 rules of thumb for converting Games Workshop models:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friendly games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here most things go. If you say 'this model counts as a Hive Crone' before you start playing, then nobody will object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule is WYSIWIG (what you see is what you get). Nobody is going to complain that they can't see your model's mouth weapon. They know what the model represents. I've not had any problems adding extra legs, spikes etc. to my own Tyranids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary, its your model - you can make &amp;amp; paint it how you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T12:04:01.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18019" CreationDate="2015-02-15T15:08:59.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason its important is not for the jinking itself, because you don't &quot;roll&quot; jinking, you are simply given a 4+ cover, which doesn't even come into play until you take potential damage. The defending player can't avoid it, Scour doesn't remove jinking or strip cover saves directly, it simply gives all weapons shooting the &quot;Ignores Cover&quot; rule. It doesn't matter if the jinking player declares it before or after, he ain't getting his cover save. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why you can't get Cover Saves from Markerlights because they don't inflict wounds and you only get cover saves from inflicted wounds/pen or glancing hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But its still important because Jink makes you fire Snap Shots. So if the defending player knows he's not getting Cover Saves anyway, he can wait for you to use the Scour ability -2 counters and then let you waste it by not Jinking at all. That way, if the unit survives, it isn't on Snap Shots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that the word MAY for Jink specifies that anytime within the Select Target steps does the player determine Jinking in effect so long as it is done before rolls are made, even waiting until after the first weapon is selected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Markerlights are more restrictive, and specify &quot;immediately&quot; before a unit shoots their use must be declared, but how they are expended is declared before the shooting attack, which I agree is before the first weapon is selected (which is part of the shooting attack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So before you state the weapon you are using, those counters must be used. Markerlight declaration is very clearly before that and the defending player can choose anytime before To Hit rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tau are my primary army so I'm hurting myself by honorably letting my opponents know before I nominate anything to shoot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11857" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T15:08:59.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23042" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23046" CreationDate="2015-02-15T16:40:18.987" Score="2" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per round, whenever you take an action that provides any [white],&#xA;  you can also replace [orange], [black], or [purple] with [white].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The white cube is qualified by &quot;&lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, but the text does not indicate &quot;&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; cube&quot; or &quot;&lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; cube&quot;, though the flavor text may imply only one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Another cleric called to the cause.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6789" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T20:29:24.350" Title="Can &quot;Produce a Miracle for the Masses&quot; be used to replace multiple cubes?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23043" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-15T19:21:13.003" Score="9" ViewCount="1666" Body="&lt;p&gt;On community chest card, I was told to pay 400 per each house I own due to insurance price hike.&#xA;I owned 12 houses, so this adds up to 4800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now - as I didn't have enough money, I mortgaged some other properties, and sold 3 houses back to the bank (leaving me with 9 houses).&#xA;Do I still have to pay 4800 for 12 houses, or is it only 3600 now as I only own 9 houses now?&#xA;Bit silly paying insurance price hike for houses I don't own anymore.&#xA;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11860" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:12:09.260" Title="Monopoly - Community chest paying for houses" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23045" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-15T19:51:05.023" Score="0" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have drafted a game that uses a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_playing_cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;French Deck&lt;/a&gt; with 52 cards, 4 suites (diamonds, clubs, hearts, spades), and no jokers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in profiling game play along a few axes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many turns are there in a typical game with different play strategies?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I change the winning condition from, say, getting all four queens to getting all four jacks, how much longer or shorter is play. This would make an actual difference in my game, but I'd like to quantify that difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How frequently will players have matching ranks for the cards they play if I force them to play a random card from their deck versus selecting which card to play?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides those, I could think of other ways to tweak the game, and I want to know what effect that has without manually playing the game several times in real life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would be possible to get this information by using some ad-hoc scripting on my computer to calculate values for the specific cases I mention above. However, adding more measurements, could require changing or improving my model of the game which takes more work. What would be better is a suite of computer programs that would allow me to change rules and gather new statistics without, in general, needing to add additional instrumentation to the game engine. Does such a suite of programs already exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2806/are-there-statistic-probabilty-applications-specifically-made-for-card-game-desi&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; which is similar to my own, but the poster requests statistics for a much more specific condition. I am looking for a general tool. I am hoping that the situation has changed since the original negative answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11859" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T03:27:48.627" Title="Deriving statistics from original card games" Tags="|game-design|statistics|probability|play-time|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-08-17T04:07:34.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23042" CreationDate="2015-02-15T20:18:50.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only do it once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you see a cube on a card, it means &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; cube. This isn't explicitly stated in the rules, but it should be apparent from the way cards always show a number of cubes, and any time there's not a known number of cubes, it's qualified. For example, this very card says &quot;...any {white}...&quot; rather than just &quot;...{white}...&quot; to make it clear that it triggers just once when you receive any number of clerics. If you look through other cards, I think you'll find you've always interpreted a single cube to mean a single adventurer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could more clearly transcribe the card as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per round, whenever you take an action that provides any clerics, you can also replace &lt;em&gt;a fighter, a rogue, or a wizard with a cleric&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since it says you can only make that replacement once, you can only replace one cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-02-15T20:29:24.350" LastActivityDate="2015-02-15T20:29:24.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23047" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23089" CreationDate="2015-02-15T22:35:02.573" Score="2" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look in the game rulebook you'll see that it states that the game has &quot;167 tokens&quot;. This seems quite unspecific to me. The Blue Sun- and the Pirates &amp;amp; Bounty Hunters-expansions are equally unspecific in what token content they have (88 and 41 respectively).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://indiebard.com/bad-design-firefly-board-games-token-addiction/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Indie Bard&lt;/a&gt; gives a more specific content list but only for the basic game, and without any reference to any official source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google searches of &quot;... token details&quot;, &quot;... token specification&quot; and &quot;... token content&quot; has turned me down so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is the Indie Bard list correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If not, what is the correct content list of the tokens in the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the token content of the expansions of the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastEditorUserId="1089" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T19:12:28.293" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T19:12:28.293" Title="What is the detailed token content of &quot;Firefly: The Game&quot; and its expansions?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23043" CreationDate="2015-02-16T06:50:34.633" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can sell property to raise the amount that needs to be paid. The amount was 4800.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it as paying in arrears&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T06:50:34.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20838" CreationDate="2015-02-16T11:35:19.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I uses cases from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.krmulticase.com/buyarmystorage.aspx?system=STAR&amp;amp;army=XW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;KR Multicase&lt;/a&gt; for all my X-Wing and Warhammer models. They do a selection of cases with foam inserts specifically designed for X-Wing and have cases ranging from aluminium, cardboard and backpacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They do pre-cut foam for most of the bigger ships as well as a standard slot which fits most of the fighters. Some of the trays in their bundles also have slots for cards/tokens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPDYd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found them to be very good quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T11:35:19.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23055" CreationDate="2015-02-16T16:27:50.970" Score="9" ViewCount="142229" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Checkers, can a non-kinged piece jump backwards as the second jump in a double jump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11848" LastEditorUserId="6712" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T19:38:53.493" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T22:47:05.553" Title="Can a double jump move backwards in Checkers/Draughts?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22914" CreationDate="2015-02-16T16:57:40.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to page 19 of the rulebook at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/axis.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defending together - when a multiple force is attacked, the attacker fires first as usual.  If a hit is scored, the defenders mutually agree which unit is chosen as the casualty (if they cannot agree, the attacker chooses).  When counterattacking, each defender rolls separately for his or her units (including casualties).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T16:57:40.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-16T17:54:25.933" Score="6" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeds%20of%20Strength&quot;&gt;Seeds of Strength&lt;/a&gt; has the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sage%20of%20hours&quot;&gt;Sage of hours&lt;/a&gt; reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heroic — Whenever you cast a spell that targets Sage of Hours, put a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So would Seeds of Strength trigger the heroic once or three?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11842" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-02-16T18:07:17.543" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T18:07:17.543" Title="Does Seeds of Strength trigger Heroic three times?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-heroic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23053" CreationDate="2015-02-16T18:06:53.453" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only once. The actual trigger condition is &amp;quot;whenever &lt;strong&gt;you cast a spell&lt;/strong&gt;...&amp;quot;. And there was only 1 instance of &amp;quot;cast a spell&amp;quot; happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF the ability said &amp;quot;whenever a spell targets Sage of Hours...&amp;quot; then it would happen 3 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the Gatherer ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sage%20of%20Hours&quot;&gt;Sage of Hours&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heroic abilities will trigger only once per spell, even if that spell targets the creature with the heroic ability multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T18:06:53.453" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23050" CreationDate="2015-02-16T19:29:51.410" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the variation you're playing. A lot of variations allow capturing backwards with regular pieces (called men). The English variation is probably the most common that doesn't allow backwards capturing. By the international rules, capturing backwards is allowed (and mandatory if it results in the largest capture group).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's an &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts#National_and_regional_variants&quot;&gt;extensive list&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia, describing which variations allow backwards capturing by men, and which don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-16T19:50:00.020" LastActivityDate="2015-02-16T19:50:00.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23057" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:34:56.210" Score="8" ViewCount="1851" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some abilities trigger whenever a (certain) permanent &amp;quot;becomes the target of a spell or ability.&amp;quot; For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cephalid%20Illusionist&quot;&gt;Cephalid Illusionist&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Cephalid Illusionist becomes the target of a spell or ability, put the top three cards of your library into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spells can target the same permanent multiple times. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeds%20of%20Strength&quot;&gt;Seeds of Strength&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature gets +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast Seeds of Strength with a single Cephalid Illusionist as all 3 targets, will its ability trigger once or three times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T14:09:46.630" Title="Can abilities that trigger when a permanent becomes targeted trigger multiple times from the same spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23056" CreationDate="2015-02-16T20:40:10.847" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It will trigger once.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2c The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. A spell may require some targets only if an alternative or additional cost (such as a buyback or kicker cost), or a particular mode, was chosen for it; otherwise, the spell is cast as though it did not require those targets. If the spell has a variable number of targets, the player announces how many targets he or she will choose before he or she announces those targets. The same target can’t be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word “target” on the spell. However, if the spell uses the word “target” in multiple places, the same object, player, or zone can be chosen once for each instance of the word “target” (as long as it fits the targeting criteria). If any effects say that an object or player must be chosen as a target, the player chooses targets so that he or she obeys the maximum possible number of such effects without violating any rules or effects that say that an object or player can’t be chosen as a target. &lt;strong&gt;The chosen players, objects, and/or zones each become a target of that spell.&lt;/strong&gt; (Any abilities that trigger when those players, objects, and/or zones become the target of a spell trigger at this point; they’ll wait to be put on the stack until the spell has finished being cast.) Example: If a spell says “Tap two target creatures,” then the same creature can’t be chosen twice; the spell requires two different legal targets. A spell that says “Destroy target artifact and target land,” however, can target the same artifact land twice because it uses the word “target” in multiple places.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After having chosen all targets for Seeds, all those creatures become targeted by Seeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2d Some trigger events use the word “becomes” (for example, “becomes attached” or “becomes blocked”). These trigger only at the time the named event happens—&lt;strong&gt;they don’t trigger if that state already exists&lt;/strong&gt; or retrigger if it persists. An ability that triggers when a permanent “becomes tapped” or “becomes untapped” doesn’t trigger if the permanent enters the battlefield in that state.&#xA;  Example: An ability that triggers when a permanent “becomes tapped” triggers only when the status of a permanent that’s already on the battlefield changes from untapped to tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it can be inferred from 601.2c, this rule says that the Illusionist will not trigger more than once from being targeted by Seeds, because even if the number of times that the Illusionist has been chosen for Seeds mattered, it can only become a target of Seeds once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T05:39:29.853" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T05:39:29.853" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23059" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23074" CreationDate="2015-02-16T21:40:26.257" Score="6" ViewCount="10801" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, when the evil characters discuss who Merlin is, can Oberon reveal himself and join in the discussion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I'm asking this because in the games I've played, even though Oberon is an evil character, he doesn't know who the other evil characters are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11866" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T18:38:09.043" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T07:29:15.097" Title="Oberon character in Avalon" Tags="|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23061" CreationDate="2015-02-16T23:40:23.347" Score="3" ViewCount="4000" Body="&lt;p&gt;If two creature cards are placed in the graveyard by one card effect, will &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sidisi%2C%20Brood%20Tyrant&quot;&gt;Sidisi, Brood Tyrant&lt;/a&gt; make one or two tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10108" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2023-11-21T19:39:10.743" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T21:42:44.017" Title="How many Tokens does Sidisi, the Brood Tyrant make when multiple creature cards enter the graveyard simultaneously?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-tokens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23060" CreationDate="2015-02-16T23:45:29.170" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever one or more creature cards (...)&amp;quot; only triggers once even when you mill multiple creature cards at the same time, like when Sidisi enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was meant to trigger for each individual card, it would say: &amp;quot;Whenever a creature card (...)&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See one of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sidisi%2C%20Brood%20Tyrant&quot;&gt;Sidisi, Brood Tyrant&lt;/a&gt;'s rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9/20/2014: Any instruction, including Sidisi’s first ability, that tells you to put multiple cards from a library into a graveyard moves all the cards at the same time. For example, &lt;strong&gt;if Sidisi enters the battlefield and you put three creature cards into your graveyard, Sidisi’s last ability will trigger once&lt;/strong&gt; and you’ll put one Zombie token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bear in mind, one effect can have multiple separate instructions to move cards to your library: in general, if it contains multiple sentences, each with its own self-milling instruction, each sentence is a different instruction, and each instruction will move all of its cards simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current standard format doesn't seem to contain any examples of this, but imagine a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dampen%20Thought&quot;&gt;Dampen Thought&lt;/a&gt; targeting yourself, spliced into another Dampen Thought, also targeting yourself. You'd wind up with, effectively, a spell saying: &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Target player mills four cards. Target player mills four cards.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; — which will count as milling yourself twice, and trigger Sidisi twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="30400" LastEditDate="2023-11-25T21:42:44.017" LastActivityDate="2023-11-25T21:42:44.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22984" CreationDate="2015-02-17T03:46:46.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After quite a bit of searching (and an e-mail to Andy Looney, creator of &lt;em&gt;Chrononauts&lt;/em&gt;), I was able to piece together the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chrononauts First Printing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this was the initial release, it did feature a number of art changes &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/84184/chrononauts?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;from the beta version&lt;/a&gt;, notably the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1256112/chrononauts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;beta card back&lt;/a&gt; was replaced with the one used in all subsequent editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chrononauts Second Printing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buried in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wunderland.com/WhatsOld/2002/WN.07.18.02.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;July 18, 2002 Wunderland Weekly News&lt;/a&gt; (the company's newsletter at the time), they note the following changes were introduced in the second printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/275058/chrononauts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The box has been revised&lt;/a&gt;. The art on the front and top panels has been reversed, and several new bits of info have been added (Origins Award winner, Parent's Choice winner, Second Printing, Patent Pending, etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1962 will henceforth hinge on an &quot;OR&quot; instead of an &quot;AND&quot;. This makes World War III and the ÜberParadox much easier to create, and to sustain, which will hopefully give Squa Tront (and Zane Reenak) more of a fighting chance. (It also makes it more satisfying to flip 1943 and 1957.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Obvious Forgery of the Mona Lisa now sports a handlebar mustache.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A note about Killing Time has been added to Fast Forward.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The incorrect Time Index on the Marijuana Legalized card has been fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The teeny-tiny tick mark missing from the Rongo-Rongo Tablets has been restored.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chrononauts Third Printing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Chrononauts/CardList1.3.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card list for the third printing&lt;/a&gt; has a few notes about what has changed with this version compared to the second printing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 Reverse Fate cards (down from 9)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 Restore History card (down from 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 new Artifact cards&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jade Statue of Tirade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;German Cake&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The concept of Gadget cards are introduced with 2 new cards&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Really Fast Time Machine&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teeny Tiny Time Machine &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chrononauts v1.4&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than calling it the fourth printing, Looney Labs called this version v1.4 (as can be seen from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1833267/chrononauts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this photo&lt;/a&gt;). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wunderland.com/LooneyLabs/Chrononauts/CardList.html#changes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card list for this version&lt;/a&gt; noted the following changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 new artifacts were added (increasing the total card count from 136 to 140)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beatles Reunion CD (Artifact)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Live Triceratops (Artifact)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1945D: Tokyo Nuked (Patch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restore History (Inverter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/541591/chrononauts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bigger, better box&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bigger, better rulesheet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Fast Forward was changed into a Reverse Fate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the inverter cards added icons indicating which linchpins they could be used for in either &lt;em&gt;Early American Chrononauts&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;The Gore Years&lt;/em&gt; expansion. For instance, Halt Attack notes that it can be used to flip the expansion's 2001 World Trade Center Attack linchpin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Chrononauts v1.5&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of this writing, Board Game Geek lists the version after v1.4 as the &quot;Second Edition&quot;. I could not find anything about the changes with this version, so I e-mailed Andy Looney and got the following response:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The most recent version of Chrononauts is what we call v1.5, which differs from 1.4 only in the design of the box itself. There is no v2.0 of Chrononauts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So according to the creator himself, there are no changes to any cards in v1.5 and the only difference is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/1909256/chrononauts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;new box cover&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other Promo Cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we're at it, a number of promo cards eventually did wind up included in later versions (such as German Chocolate Cake), but there are two that never were (and are still for sale in Looney Lab's web store):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.looneylabs.com/Pterodactyls?sc=2&amp;amp;category=1578&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mating Pair of Pterodactyls&lt;/a&gt; (distributed at Dragon*Con 2004)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.looneylabs.com/Carl-Sagans-Joint?sc=2&amp;amp;category=1546&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carl Sagan's Joint&lt;/a&gt; (distributed for the &quot;Summer Festivals of 2004&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T03:52:09.970" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T03:52:09.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23060" CreationDate="2015-02-17T04:34:32.447" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever one or more creature cards are put into your graveyard from your library &lt;em&gt;simultaneously&lt;/em&gt;, Sidsi's second ability will trigger &lt;em&gt;once&lt;/em&gt;, and thus produce &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;em&gt;instruction&lt;/em&gt; to move multiple cards moves the cards simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any instruction, including Sidisi’s first ability, that tells you to put multiple cards from a library into a graveyard moves all the cards at the same time. For example, if Sidisi enters the battlefield and you put three creature cards into your graveyard, Sidisi’s last ability will trigger once and you’ll put one Zombie token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you asked about &lt;em&gt;effects&lt;/em&gt;. It depends on the effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an effect reads, &quot;&lt;em&gt;Move the top two cards of your library into your graveyard&lt;/em&gt;&quot;,  Sidsi's ability will trigger at most one time since it only contains one instruction to move the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the effect reads, &quot;&lt;em&gt;Move the top card of your library into your graveyard. Move the top card of your library into your graveyard&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, Sidsi's ability would trigger twice, since the cards aren't moved simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-17T14:39:16.133" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T14:39:16.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1594" CreationDate="2015-02-17T06:35:40.513" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying out Anywhere Board game (&lt;a href=&quot;http://anywhereboardgames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://anywhereboardgames.com&lt;/a&gt;) on Google Hangout. It's game agnostic, you can add game pieces via image URLs. It supports things like deck shuffling and player hand shielding. It also have a server hosting feature and game save on independent of Hangout but I haven't tried that yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very similar concept is Tabletop Simulator (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.berserk-games.com/ts/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.berserk-games.com/ts/&lt;/a&gt;), which is still in development but can be purchased early release on Steam. I haven't tried it, but various Youtube videos of people flipping the table have been entertaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11866" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T06:35:40.513" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-02-17T06:35:40.513" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23066" CreationDate="2015-02-17T15:32:48.203" Score="3" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day playing Firefly with friends, we were playing a scenario where when completing an illegal job you get issued a warrant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far we understand from the basic rules, all your jobs (legal or illegal) get cancelled when you get issued a warrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would imply that you can be working at most one job when doing illegal jobs throughout the game making the game slightly slower, regardless the fact that illegal jobs get you more money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something we missed or is this the proper and expected behavior of such scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T15:49:42.910" Title="Illegal jobs, warrant issues and particular scenario" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23065" CreationDate="2015-02-17T15:49:42.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only discard an Active Job if you get issued a warrant while working that job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flamesofwar.com/Portals/0/Documents/Events/FireflyRulebook.pdf&quot;&gt;Firefly Rules&lt;/a&gt;, pg 14&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you receive a Warrant while Working a Job, discard &lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt; Job, returning it to the discard pile of the issuing Contact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only mention of discarding Active Jobs when you get a Warrant. You only lose the Job you are using your Work action for, you don't lose other Jobs, and gaining a Warrant outside of a Work action doesn't effect your current Jobs at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T15:49:42.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23043" CreationDate="2015-02-17T16:12:09.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should take it as a bill on the moment of possesing the houses. So unfortunately you should resolve the payment first by all means possible before anything else is taken into account.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11869" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:12:09.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22834" CreationDate="2015-02-17T16:26:15.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly play with three players. I really recommend Cities and Knights, but besides that;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make a mainland and a sea with islands. (force people of the mainland for the discovery point per island and the longest road) Make the island tiles a random of undiscoverd gold and desert so there is a chance of rags or riches for the discoverers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make one big map with area's of a certain resource so players will have to trade and focus their strategy on the land they chose to exploit while trying to expand. (Make sure the harbors are on the &quot;wrong side&quot; of the map.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11869" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:26:15.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="48" CreationDate="2015-02-17T16:33:00.930" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made up something I haven't really tested thoroughly, but if you have enough tiles you could build a complete hidden map(tiles upsidedown) underneath your visible map and and have a player pay a wood and ore to make a shovel to dig for new ground beneath the &quot;bad&quot; tile and wait one round with a blank tile.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's an addition, you may or may not like, but hey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(We usually remove the 2's and 12's and you're able to revise one of the numbers drawn so the gamble is more to the strategy than lady fortune smiling upon you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11869" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T16:33:00.930" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7460" CreationDate="2015-02-17T19:51:47.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I give each player 2 start world ; one of each type - military and production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The each player gets 6 random cards and then you start drafting by picking one of the six according to you're preferred start world and then each of you give the remaining five cards to the left player. Do that 3 other times and on the last draft you have to choose between 2 cards and the other goes in the discard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you choose one start world from the two you got according to your draft and everyone unveil their start world at once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player really had a baaaaaaad drafting I let him have a mulligan and he can get to do a normal draft of two other start worlds and he picks 4of6 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's how I reduce luck factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11841" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T19:51:47.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34396" CreationDate="2015-02-17T21:00:24.550" Score="14" ViewCount="12709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done numerous Google searches, and come up with nothing remotely definitive for the reason for the name MUD given to MUD decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition of MUD appears to be, an artifact deck, that uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mishra%20Workshop&quot;&gt;Mishra Workshop&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;AND&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Metal%20Worker&quot;&gt;Metal Worker&lt;/a&gt;.  If the deck doesn't use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Metal%20Worker&quot;&gt;Metal Worker&lt;/a&gt; the name to the deck is a &amp;quot;shop&amp;quot; deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2018-12-20T19:01:56.920" Title="Why are MUD decks called MUD?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23071" CreationDate="2015-02-17T21:49:07.953" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Generally, quite a few older deck names aren't really meaningful&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;mdash; they're a weird in-joke or just a random word someone pulled out of nowhere &amp;mdash; and that tradition has been carried forward to the modern day in Legacy/Vintage as well. This is how you get the likes of Fruity Pebbles, Cephalid Breakfast, Team America (which is BUG, not red-white-blue), and Tinfins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes there's a story behind it, but that story amounts to &quot;I liked this reference&quot; or &quot;We had waffles at this restaurant the day before.&quot; About the most interesting story you're going to get from these is Boat Brew (created for a cruise; achieved massive hype quickly; lots of people today joke that it was an awful pile of a deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen various backronyms for MUD, but really what you need to know is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MUD plays gobs of artifacts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MUD decks are usually defined by Metalworker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifacts (used to) have brown frames&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest seems to be speculation and folk tales.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T06:53:55.183" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T06:53:55.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-17T22:32:59.260" Score="2" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of a scenario that is an example: if either number can be played but not both, the player must play the larger one. Can someone please explain when this rule should be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11871" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T01:50:18.010" Title="Rule Example in Backgammon" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23059" CreationDate="2015-02-17T22:38:31.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note - it's &lt;strong&gt;Oberon&lt;/strong&gt; rather than Morgana who does not open his eyes during the reveal phase at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Without revealing any Character cards, the &lt;em&gt;Evil&lt;/em&gt; players discuss and the player with the Assassin character card will name one &lt;em&gt;Good&lt;/em&gt; player as Merlin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no character cards should be revealed, however the player who is Oberon can join in the discussion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not really explicit whether or not a Good player could claim to be Oberon at the end of the game to try and confuse the Assassin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2015-02-17T22:38:31.713" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23073" CreationDate="2015-02-17T23:06:26.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A has 14 stones on Player B's one-point, and a fifteenth stone on his 3-point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B has a wall at least two points long running back from his two-point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If player A rolls 1-2 he can move his fifteenth stone either one or two points (respectively to either the two-point or one-point), but cannot move it three (ie remove it) because not al his stones are in his Home board yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUGqk.png&quot; alt=&quot;example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T17:33:21.140" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T17:33:21.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23076" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23077" CreationDate="2015-02-18T00:12:22.120" Score="3" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine that we've got a couple of gates open and every investigator has 3 clue tokens. All other things being equal, is it better to try to immediately attempt to close those gates or would it be better to save up to 5 clue tokens in order to seal them? By better, I mean more likely to result in the investigators winning the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T14:48:51.003" Title="Is it better to close gates or save up clue tokens to seal them?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23076" CreationDate="2015-02-18T00:26:29.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends. Mostly on how likely a gate is to open again at that particular location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to wait and seal gates with lots of gate mythos cards in the deck, to prevent them from continuously re-opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's better to quickly close gates with few gate mythos cards and many clue mythos cards, as it will be unlikely to open again, and blocking access to valuable clues while it sits unaddressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific frequencies can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/23743/arkham-horror-gate-seal-prioritypdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1565" LastEditorUserId="1565" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T00:33:54.120" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T00:33:54.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23080" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29067" CreationDate="2015-02-18T01:40:45.103" Score="1" ViewCount="904" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Zombicide, if you have a character with the &quot;zombie link&quot; ability, does that ability trigger only when a spawn card says &quot;all X 1 extra turn&quot; or does it also trigger when you activate zombies due to a spawn where you don't have enough figures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5238" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T20:37:28.817" Title="Does Zombie link trigger when out of models?" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23024" CreationDate="2015-02-18T12:12:19.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If could affect the game in the way, that you do not know if some player will trade with you. If he does not accept a trade you might be interested in, you could lack the ressources to do what you intended to do and have misplaced your pioneer (or vice versa, could have done some better move due to a surprisingly good deal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, we always decide where to use the pioneer during city management, since the game rule causes unneeded memory issues that are only relevant in niche cases (the game is already complex enough by itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11675" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:12:19.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7460" CreationDate="2015-02-18T12:54:27.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Luck in your cards runs throughout the game. The enjoyable thing about RFTG is trying to make the best of whatever cards you have at any particular point. But when it comes down to it, luck isn't actually that important in RFTG! My wife and I used to play it a lot, but she got tired of it because I won about 95% of the time. Skill is far more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my answer of how to mitigate the luck factor is to play enough to develop your skill, such that the luck is less important!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T12:54:27.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23083" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23086" CreationDate="2015-02-18T13:44:28.500" Score="1" ViewCount="2264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing this game in different languages and in different groups of people I've met strange rule &quot;after 3 rounds property goes from mortgage back to bank&quot;. &#xA;Aslo they had strange price to buy back from mortgage with original price instead of usual half price +10%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please tell me what is written about it in official rules?&#xA;The last one, an I make actions not in my turn? for example I started game 1, we have 4 players, and now is 3rd player turn to make a move and I want to buyback two cards from mortgage, is it allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11807" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T14:05:16.757" Title="mortgage deadline" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23071" CreationDate="2015-02-18T14:34:10.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always known MUD to mean Mono Uncolored Deck &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11876" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T21:27:08.547" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T21:27:08.547" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-18T15:58:09.093" Score="2" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook of Civilization (p.26) it says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player declares which of their cities the scout is &quot;sending&quot; the&#xA;  square to during the Start of Turn Phase, and all the icons in that&#xA;  square (including trade, production, culture, coins and resources) are&#xA;  then considered to in that city's outskirts for the rest of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it possible to disturb the acquisition of the &quot;icons&quot;? (or to change the icons?)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll give you some examples, when you might get into thinking of this question&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1) The scout is moved&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scout might be moved by a culture card, such as &lt;em&gt;Disoriented&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Lost&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Out of Position&lt;/em&gt; (Played in the City Management Phase). Will the scout still send the &quot;original&quot; icons, or are the icons changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2) The square is changed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;a)&lt;/strong&gt; .. by a culture event card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drought&lt;/em&gt; (Played at the Start of Turn Phase) would make the square a desert square (One trade icon on it). Would the scout send the original icons, or would you get the trade at the trade phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Deforestration&lt;/em&gt; (Played at the Start of Turn Phase) can be used to make a square a grassland square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flooding&lt;/em&gt; (Played at the Start of Turn Phase) can be used to make a square a water square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sabotage&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Catastrophe&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Disaster&lt;/em&gt; (Player at the Start of Turn Phase) can be used to destroy a building. If the scout was on a building, would it be sending the icons on the building, or on the square below the building?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;b)&lt;/strong&gt;.. or by a technology&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gunpowder&lt;/em&gt; (City Management Phase) can be used to destroy a building or ancient wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;c)&lt;/strong&gt; .. or by a player action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the scout is in outskirts of another player, and that player builds a building/wonder/great person on it. Will the player with the scout receive the original or the new icons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the scout might be in the outskirts of a city A, and a player might want to have more hammers in his another city (city B). Now, if he builds a building/great person with hammers below the scout, will the scout send these new hammer icons to the city B (or the icons below the new tile, assuming that the scout is paired with the city B)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T16:05:27.387" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T19:25:51.187" Title="Is it possible to change or destroy goods that a scout is sending?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23083" CreationDate="2015-02-18T16:06:23.207" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should really ask your questions one at a time, in separate questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do mortgages go to the bank after three rounds?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The rules say nothing about this. When your friends bring up a rule you have never heard of, ask them to point to the rule in the rules booklet. If you lost yours, print a new one from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How much does it cost to buy back mortgages?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The amount of the mortgage plus 10% interest. A $70 mortgages costs $77 to lift. From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to lift the mortgage, the owner must pay the Bank the&#xA;  amount of the mortgage plus 10% interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I take actions when it is not my turn?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are unclear on this. Some sources say you can conduct your business whenever you want:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mospaw.com/monopoly/commonly-missed-monopoly-rules/13/information&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This blog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6476/6692&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt; makes a good point about what the electronic versions of the game allow or disallow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091020170525AA55ZFS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The top answer on this Yahoo Answers question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other sources say you can only conduct most business on your turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/6566/6692&quot;&gt;This answer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgames.about.com/od/monopolyfaq/f/buy_houses.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One action most that people agree on is that you cannot buy houses immediately after a dice roll (&lt;em&gt;&quot;Hah! You rolled a 6! I'm going to upgrade that spot before you land on it!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;). Also, some business must occur when it is not your turn. For example, you may be required to mortgage a property or sell houses in order to pay a debt. We will categorize this as &quot;necessary business&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves unnecessary business. Unnecessary business would include pretty much any action that you take when you are not in danger of going bankrupt. For example, buying a house, unmortgaging a property, or trading. You and the other players should make it clear when these types of actions are allowed before the game starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T14:05:16.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23047" CreationDate="2015-02-18T19:38:36.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing some more research, I found this table.[1]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;|                      | Firefly  | Pirates  | Blue sun | Kalidasa |&#xA;|----------------------|----------|----------|----------|----------|&#xA;| Dino                 |        1 |          |          |          |&#xA;| Reaver/Alliance card |        1 |          |          |          |&#xA;| Disgruntled          |       20 |        4 |        7 |        6 |&#xA;| Parts                |       20 |        5 |          |          |&#xA;| Fuel                 |       44 |       10 |          |          |&#xA;| Warrant/Goal         |       13 |        5 |        4 |          |&#xA;| Passenger/Fugitive   |       28 |        5 |          |          |&#xA;| Cargo/Contraband     |       40 |        5 |          |          |&#xA;| Haven                |          |        7 |        7 |          |&#xA;| Alert Tokens         |          |          |       70 |       36 |&#xA;| Complete             |          |          |          |       18 |&#xA;| Higgins field        |          |          |          |        1 |&#xA;| Corvette card        |          |          |          |        1 |&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not an official source but it corresponds well to those unboxing videos I've seen.[2][3][4]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The numbers for the Kalidasa expansion was counted during unboxing performed by post author.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answers to my original questions would be&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;References&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/18195471#18195471&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/18195471#18195471&lt;/a&gt;, read 2015-02-18 20:00.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHS373VHmNk&amp;amp;t=0m48s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHS373VHmNk&amp;amp;t=0m48s&lt;/a&gt;, viewed 2015-02-18 20:02.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9r95D01XO14&amp;amp;t=2m22s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9r95D01XO14&amp;amp;t=2m22s&lt;/a&gt;, viewed 2015-02-18 20:02.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BNFi0W6w0s&amp;amp;t=1m15s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BNFi0W6w0s&amp;amp;t=1m15s&lt;/a&gt;, viewed 2015-02-18 20:02.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8691" LastEditorUserId="8691" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T13:56:24.647" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T13:56:24.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23092" CreationDate="2015-02-18T20:28:15.853" Score="2" ViewCount="2596" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is my problem:&#xA;I made a really awesome Animar EDH deck and one of my infinite combos involves &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animar%2C%20Soul%20of%20elements&quot;&gt;Animar, Soul of elements&lt;/a&gt; with 4 +1/+1 counters on it. This will allow me to summon &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pierce%20Strider&quot;&gt;Pierce Strider&lt;/a&gt; for free. I would then use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudstone%20Curio&quot;&gt;Cloudstone Curio&lt;/a&gt;'s ability in order to bounce back pierce strider back into my hand and virtually allow me to cause 4 points of damage to my opponent infinitely!&#xA;Can this combo actually &lt;strong&gt;WORK&lt;/strong&gt;!? It says on cloudstone curio that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever a &lt;strong&gt;nonartifact&lt;/strong&gt; permanent enters the battlefield under&#xA;your control, you may return another permanent you control that shares&#xA;a permanent type with it to its owner's hand&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and pierce strider is an artifact but is also a creature. So will this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3688" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T21:09:17.480" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T21:09:17.480" Title="Will this bounce work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23090" CreationDate="2015-02-18T20:36:26.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 reasons it doesn't work. One, even though it is a creatures, it is also an artifact, so it fails the &lt;strong&gt;nonartifact&lt;/strong&gt; clause. Second, Curio also says &quot;another permanent&quot;, meaning you can't bounce the permanent that just entered the battlefield. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T20:36:26.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23090" CreationDate="2015-02-18T20:36:45.433" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your combo will not work for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cloudstone Curio never triggers.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudstone%20Curio&quot;&gt;Cloudstone Curio&lt;/a&gt; triggers when a nonartifact permanent enters the battlefield. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pierce%20Strider&quot;&gt;Pierce Strider&lt;/a&gt; is an artifact, and so it will not cause Cloudstone Curio to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You must choose another permanent.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudstone Curio says you may return another permanent. &amp;quot;Another&amp;quot; in this case means &amp;quot;not the thing that caused the trigger&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-18T21:02:47.317" LastActivityDate="2015-02-18T21:02:47.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23045" CreationDate="2015-02-19T00:26:41.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a small amount of experience programming, you could achieve your goals here pretty easily, and as customized as you need.  If you want graphs and other 'pretty'  output, I suggest R.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11716" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T00:26:41.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23071" CreationDate="2015-02-19T02:43:06.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;MUD Decks are typically decks that attempt to slow gameplay down drastically. You tend to see cards such as Tanglewire (Tapping permanents), Thorn of Amethyst (All non-creature spells cost 1 more to cast), and even Chalice of the Void on Zero or One (This prevents the powerful Moxen and Black Lotus cards in Vintage, Stops a lot of burn plays like Vexing Devil, Monastery Swiftspear, Lightning Bolt in Burn in any format Chalice is Legal). These decks capitalize on the slower gameplay caused and play threats that then become unstoppable. The signature name comes from an analogy, like wading through mud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11883" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T02:43:06.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23095" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23096" CreationDate="2015-02-19T03:28:48.903" Score="16" ViewCount="34425" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I are new to Settlers of Catan. We had a dispute over what counts as the longest road. Suppose we have a road that is 8 segments long. Between the 4th and 5th segment we have a road coming off it that is 2 segments long, does this count as that person's road being 10 segments long? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictured: For the Longest Road, does this count as 8 segments long, or 10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S           S — — S&#xA; \         /&#xA;  \       /&#xA;   S — — S&#xA;          \&#xA;           \&#xA;            S&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming all roads and settlements are from the same player, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S : Settlement  &#xA;\ : Road  &#xA;/ : Road  &#xA;— : Road&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Argument: One friend was arguing that because the road is not broken by another player, it is 10 segments long while another was arguing that the longest road should be able to be taken in 1 trip, so it is 8 segments long. We know that the rule is given as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The Longest Road is a continuous road connecting two intersections, which consists     of at least 5 individual road pieces and is not interrupted by game pieces belonging to other players. It has more individual road pieces than any other connecting road of this type.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But we were unable to determine which it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11884" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T21:41:16.130" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T02:17:46.680" Title="Settlers of Catan - What counts as longest road?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23095" CreationDate="2015-02-19T03:55:36.120" Score="42" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's 8 segments. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;game rules&lt;/a&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first player to build a continuous road &lt;strong&gt;(not counting forks)&lt;/strong&gt; of at least 5 road segments, receives the Special Card “Longest Road”. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so you don't get to count the two-segment fork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2020-01-03T02:17:46.680" LastActivityDate="2020-01-03T02:17:46.680" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23095" CreationDate="2015-02-19T03:58:57.033" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it is as if you where drawing a path between two points on the board with your finger. In order to determine the longest path it would be how far you can move your finger between points without lifting it (break in path) or moving over the same path again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; S ___ ___ S ___ ___ S ___ ___ S ___ ___ S&#xA;(A)                  |                  (B)&#xA;                     |&#xA;                     S&#xA;                    (C)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example you gave I could move over 6 roads going from point A-&gt;C(C-&gt;A) or B-&gt;C(C-&gt;B) and over 8 going from A-&gt;B(B-A) and if I attempted to include all 3 points I would have to include 2 sections of road in my path twice which breaks the path.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T03:58:57.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22885" CreationDate="2015-02-19T04:48:01.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played all combinations of sets up through and including Realms Unraveled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immortal Heroes will mix in fine with RoTF and CoTG.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immortal Heroes played all on it's own would grow stale quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immortal Heroes and Storm of Souls together is an fun block in and of itself - maybe more fun than CoTG and RoTF.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have an iPhone or iPad I highly recommend the Playdeck implementation of the Ascension game - it costs a few bucks and you can play online with strangers, friends, or against the AI computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11886" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T04:48:01.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29800" CreationDate="2015-02-19T05:06:32.067" Score="1" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description for the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cryptozoic.com/games/dc-comics-deck-building-game-crisis-expansion-pack-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;DC Comics Deck Building Game: Crisis Expansion 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is not a standalone product. DC Comics Deck-building Game or Heroes Unite is required to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play with &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; at once in Crisis mode, maybe with house rules? Since the deck size in Crisis is the time limit, my first thought is that it could maybe be done if you mixed them all up, then reduced the size, but I'd be interested to know if this works well in practice (bonus points if there is something official that says whether or not they work out together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be clear, I know that I can just add the decks together and play without further modifications, but that makes the difficulty far, far easier because you have about 75% more cards (meaning you'll probably never end the game by reaching the end of the deck). I'd like to know if there is a way to play it that keeps the difficulty about the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T17:17:28.950" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:12:13.510" Title="Can you play the Crisis Expansion's Crisis Mode with the core game and Heroes Unite combined?" Tags="|dc-comics-deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23101" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23175" CreationDate="2015-02-19T05:39:36.590" Score="8" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do you do when you get caught in an Eastern Crows loop? There are three Eastern Crows cards that get shuffled back into the encounter deck every time they're defeated (supposing none are drawn as shadow effect cards). If you go all the way through the encounter deck you will be left with these cards, and then you're stuck in and endless Eastern Crows loop because you never technically empty the encounter deck so you can't reshuffle the discard pile. If you're playing with Thalin it's even worse, because if he's committed to the quest, then he deals one damage to every enemy as it's dealt. So... Eastern crows comes out &gt; gets dealt one damage &gt; goes back in the deck. But it also has the surge keyword:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ryzEV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So one more card is drawn from the deck, and it's Eastern Crows again... and the cycle starts over again...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M2R6C.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uOg4O.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;THALIN&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Dwarf. Warrior.&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;While Thalin is committed to a quest, deal 1 damage to each enemy as it is revealed by the encounter deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EASTERN CROWS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt; &#xA;Surge.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Forced:&lt;/strong&gt; After Eastern Crows is defeated, &lt;em&gt;shuffle it back into the encounter deck.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the solution here? Do you just play with Eastern crows until the end of the quest? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11469" LastEditorUserId="11469" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T17:16:52.767" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T23:52:48.797" Title="What do you do when you get stuck in an Eastern Crows loop?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23108" CreationDate="2015-02-19T08:12:48.027" Score="8" ViewCount="1085" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the expected number of turns required to get the required roll for Complete Destruction, given no evolutions or other cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11887" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T20:34:06.903" Title="King of Tokyo: Complete Destruction" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23103" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-19T08:51:42.883" Score="-3" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;if i have multiple cards in play with activated abilities involving exiling cards from my graveyard can each exiled card activate for each of my cards in play? card gets +1+1 for each card exiled and another creature has &quot;target creature get -x-x for each card exiled. By exiling 3 cards does the one get +3+3 and the other activae target creature gets -3-3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11888" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T18:26:33.490" Title="exiling cards from graveyard. can each trigger for multiple cards in play" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-02-19T14:52:21.323" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23103" CreationDate="2015-02-19T09:15:17.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Activated abilities always follow the general pattern &quot;cost: effect&quot;. The only way to get the effect is to pay all the costs, and you only get the effect from the one card that activated the ability. Paying the costs for one creature's ability does not affect any other activated abilities of the same or other creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.10.&lt;/strong&gt; Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T18:26:33.490" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T18:26:33.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19151" CreationDate="2015-02-19T11:17:44.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Position 3, which gets the 6 trade goods is, as you say, clearly the worst, all cramped up there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two which get 4 trade goods, positions 1 &amp;amp; 2, only have 3 tiles which are directly connected to their home world, whereas the remaining 4 positions are connected to the board with 4 tiles. This gives them more movement options and I guess this would be why the others are compensated :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11892" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T11:17:44.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23106" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-19T13:39:25.380" Score="3" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;chair one opened 1 spade I was chair two and said 3 clubs,  saying , I have 7 clubs and a outside ace and not 13 pts to open? She says I would have to open 4 clubs for it to mean that, Who's right, of course SHE insisted she has played for 50 years and I'm wrong. Help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11895" LastEditorUserId="11895" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T19:31:37.867" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T22:39:59.987" Title="Bridge the 3 card 7 club bid" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23102" CreationDate="2015-02-19T15:10:06.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The probability of getting a Complete Destruction in 1 turn is roughly 20%.  So, the expected number of turns is 1/0.2 or 5 turns on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 20% number comes from two sources.  First, I found a lengthy discussion at board game geek on this topic, which gives the final result of approximately 20%.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1155539/king-tokyo-odds/page/2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1155539/king-tokyo-odds/page/2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, I wrote a quick Matlab simulation to compute this.  The optimal strategy is pretty clearly to take any die that's a duplicate of another die, and reroll it.  Using that fact, I get the following table, which performed 100,000 trials:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      % of the time, you get 1-6 different numbers&#xA;      on 6 dice after 3 rolls&#xA;             1     2     3     4     5     6&#xA;Roll 1 :   0.0   2.0  23.2  50.1  23.1   1.6&#xA;Roll 2 :   0.0   0.0   3.3  35.2  52.7   8.8&#xA;Roll 3 :   0.0   0.0   0.4  17.4  62.3  19.8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the matlab script I used, in case you're interested:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;% King of Tokyo, Total Destruction&#xA;&#xA;% Object of total destruction card, is to get 1-6 on 6 different dice&#xA;% in three rolls.&#xA;&#xA;NUMTRIALS = 100000;&#xA;&#xA;results.numUniqueRoll1 = zeros(1,6);&#xA;results.numUniqueRoll2 = zeros(1,6);&#xA;results.numUniqueRoll3 = zeros(1,6);&#xA;&#xA;for ix = 1 : NUMTRIALS&#xA;    n1 = numel(unique(randi(6, 1, 6)));&#xA;    results.numUniqueRoll1(n1) = 1 + results.numUniqueRoll1(n1);&#xA;&#xA;    n2 = n1 + sum(unique(randi(6,1,6-n1)) &amp;gt; n1);&#xA;    results.numUniqueRoll2(n2) = 1 + results.numUniqueRoll2(n2);&#xA;&#xA;    n3 = n2 + sum(unique(randi(6,1,6-n2)) &amp;gt; n2);&#xA;    results.numUniqueRoll3(n3) = 1 + results.numUniqueRoll3(n3);&#xA;end&#xA;&#xA;fprintf('  %% of the time, you get 1-6 different numbers\n');&#xA;fprintf('      on 6 dice after 3 rolls\n');&#xA;fprintf('             1     2     3     4     5     6\n');&#xA;fprintf('Roll 1 :');&#xA;fprintf('%6.1f', 100*results.numUniqueRoll1/NUMTRIALS);&#xA;fprintf('\nRoll 2 :');&#xA;fprintf('%6.1f', 100*results.numUniqueRoll2/NUMTRIALS);&#xA;fprintf('\nRoll 3 :');&#xA;fprintf('%6.1f', 100*results.numUniqueRoll3/NUMTRIALS);&#xA;fprintf('\n');&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-02-19T20:34:06.903" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T20:34:06.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-19T17:05:38.280" Score="2" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has been brought up a few times in our group.  Infantry can only move one space, so if they move in to attack, they pretty much have to fight until they're eliminated or the defending player is eliminated?  They can't move back one space, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11897" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T00:31:11.917" Title="Can you retreat with Attacking Infantry in Axis and Allies Original - 2nd Edition" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23111" CreationDate="2015-02-19T17:49:41.930" Score="3" ViewCount="1831" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the player board there are 3 spaces for tools. Player can't have more than 3 tools at the same time (permanent tools). There are 5 spaces for buildings. Therefore, I assumed 5 is a limit of huts a player might own. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T17:51:14.197" Title="Is 5 a maximum number of buildings in Stone Age?" Tags="|stone-age|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23110" CreationDate="2015-02-19T17:51:14.197" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no limit to the number of huts a player can have. The space on the board is simply done that way for design; you do not have to put 1 hut in each space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Stone_Age.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player places the acquired building on one of the corresponding spaces of their&#xA;  board. Once a player has more than 5 buildings, he stacks them on these spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T17:51:14.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23106" CreationDate="2015-02-19T18:58:56.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can bid whatever you like, as long as it is within convention agreed between you and your partner, and when the opposition ask your partner (not you) they can say what the bid means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have a weak hand and a 7-long suit, bidding at the 3 level (i.e. jumping two bids) is called a pre-empt. The point of a pre-empt is to take away the bidding space your opponents would use to find their best contract; while making a bid that (if it becomes a doubled contract) you would not lose too many points over. (&quot;Too many&quot; being defined as more than your opponents would have got if you'd never bid and they'd made a contract themselves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the convention I play, 3c (i.e. jumping one club bid) would mean a strong hand. 4c would be a pre-empt (i.e. a weak hand). BUT in order to bid 4c over 1s you'd need a stronger hand than needed to bid 3c, as if the contract is doubled you're one trick further off the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing how many picture cards you have (especially in clubs), I can't answer for certain, but I think your best bid would probably have been to pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T18:58:56.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22581" CreationDate="2015-02-19T19:18:23.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trick-taking_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia's page on trick-taking games&lt;/a&gt; for a lot of variations. The version you mention could possibly be &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spades&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spades&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T19:18:23.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2015-02-19T21:10:06.960" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A big part of the variation in difficulty is the fixed number of event cards.  In the base game, you play with 5 event cards in the deck regardless of the number of players.  If you pick up &quot;On the Brink&quot; there are more event cards, so you play with 2 event cards in the deck per player.  This seems subtle but I've found that it smooths most of the effect of different numbers of players (assuming you are good at coordinating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11899" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T21:10:06.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22964" CreationDate="2015-02-19T21:34:57.073" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that your gaming group typically plays with 4 players.  I have found the contingency planner to be much worse with 4 players than with 2.  I agree that the contingency planner is the worst role, but part of that is because of how variable his power is depending on how the event cards fall.  Throwing him out is a reasonable approach if you only have the base game, but the other option is to buy &quot;On the Brink&quot;.  It includes a bunch of new event cards, so you switch to playing with 2 event cards in the deck per player (8 with 4 players instead of the usual 5), and I found that this really balanced out the Contingency Planner with the other roles.  With a higher number of event cards being drawn (and therefore being put in the discard pile), he has a much longer list of options on a given turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11899" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T21:34:57.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23117" CreationDate="2015-02-19T21:57:43.860" Score="9" ViewCount="1611" Body="&lt;p&gt;The questions is, in the following setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;--S--S---C- &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; represents roads, &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; settlements, &lt;code&gt;C&lt;/code&gt; cities, is the 'longest road' at 5, or 8?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had originally thought 8, but as I read the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Longest Road is a continuous road connecting two intersections, which consists of at least 5 individual road pieces and is not interrupted by game pieces belonging to other players. It has more individual road pieces than any other connecting road of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit unsure what is meant by &lt;em&gt;connecting road&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm probably a bit hopeful that my original thought is incorrect, as I find it annoying when extra road segments are built, sometimes without even a possibility of a future settlement, for the hope of two points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T22:01:47.243" Title="Does the longest road need to have settlements/cities at endpoints?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23116" CreationDate="2015-02-19T22:01:47.243" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is 8, the relevant rules are exactly what you quoted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Longest Road is a continuous road &lt;strong&gt;connecting two intersections&lt;/strong&gt;, which consists of at least 5 individual road pieces and is not interrupted by game pieces belonging to other players. It has more individual road pieces than any other connecting road of this type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolded part tells you what &quot;connecting road&quot; refers to, in this case 2 intersections. It doesn't matter if they have settlements/cities or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T22:01:47.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23106" CreationDate="2015-02-19T22:39:59.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the outside ace, and assuming clubs something like &lt;em&gt;KJTxxxx&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;AJTxxxx&lt;/em&gt;, I would make a simple 2C overcall. This suggests clubs as a contract, and implies some defence and a desired club lead from partner. You can always rebid clubs next turn to show additional length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beginners always want to show length right away and pre-empt with hands completely unsuitable for pre-empts - for example hands with outside aces or with too few points &lt;strong&gt;in&lt;/strong&gt; the bid suit. Just the fact that your partner bid and made 3S suggest to me that both you and your partner have much to learn about &lt;strong&gt;when not to pre-empt&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P. S.&lt;/strong&gt; - the correlation between years of bridge played and quality of play is a very weak one - but for the record I taught myself the rules and simple bidding at age 8, and have played tournament bridge successfully for over 40 years now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T22:39:59.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23120" CreationDate="2015-02-19T23:23:43.480" Score="4" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeking clarification on this issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Powergrid, at the Auction phase, a player has the choice of passing, or nominating a powerplant for auction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they nominate the powerplant for auction, they must put the first bid on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone subsequently outbids them, what happens? &#xA;My understanding, is that the player then nominates a second powerplant (or still has the option of passing?). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T01:26:11.760" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T01:26:11.760" Title="What happens if the auction nominator is outbid?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23119" CreationDate="2015-02-19T23:49:31.433" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding is exactly correct. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://file:///C:/Users/Robert/Downloads/Game_5_gameRules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the auctioning player wins the auction and gets the power plant, the next player in turn order takes his turn at offering a power plant for auction, if he has not&#xA;   already purchased a power plant this round. If he has, the next player in turn order may start an auction, and so on. &lt;strong&gt;When a player other than the player who started&#xA;   the auction wins the auction, the auctioning player may choose a new plant to auction from the actual market or pass.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-02-19T23:49:31.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23109" CreationDate="2015-02-20T00:31:11.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Retreat&quot; is not counted as a move. So the attacking infantry can move &quot;back&quot; to their original square. Or maybe a better way of looking at it was the attacking infantry moved to the border between its original square and the defending square, and then was stopped at the border.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the &lt;em&gt;defender&lt;/em&gt; who cannot move or retreat during an attack. The defender has to beat off the attack or lose every piece (except for submarines). But the attacker always has the option to stop the attack.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T00:31:11.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13" CreationDate="2015-02-20T07:21:30.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Something you might consider is a rule that &quot;detects&quot; this behavior--if they move back far enough, late in the game or whatever, you call it an automatic resignation.  I apologize for not having a precise definition--you might need to playtest it with a group and have someone play the vindictive, atmosphere-ruining jerk [oh, sorry, was that phrasing judgmental? :) ].  Basically, the idea would be that you could &lt;strong&gt;calculate that they are actively hurting their final standing, and take that as a trigger for automatic resignation&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either that alone. or that with &lt;strong&gt;two votes by other players&lt;/strong&gt; that someone is using that anti-strategy could be enough to declare a house-rules resignation (either kicking them out, or preventing any more money collection via that method for the remainder of the game).  Even without an exact numerical standard, you could have a two-vote rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, something you could do is change your viewpoint and consider the original behavior you're objecting to here to be a valid meta strategy.  I have a son that plays like this--if he perceives that you have slighted him in a game, he &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; make the rest of the game be about hurting you back.  It's like the way poison dart frogs have evolved bright colors to let predators know that they are dangerous to eat.  People know this is a strong possibility and avoid singling him out in any obvious way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a serious suggestion--if you can view it with amusement or appreciation as a meta strategy, it might be something you can laugh about rather than be irritated by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11875" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T07:21:30.573" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23124" CreationDate="2015-02-20T10:14:19.720" Score="2" ViewCount="2346" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Awaken%20the%20Ancient&quot;&gt;Awaken the Ancient&lt;/a&gt; and enchant my mountain. My opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Iroas&quot;&gt;Priest of Iroas&lt;/a&gt; and then activates its ability to destroy target enchantment and targets my Awaken the Ancient. Now I know that the enchantment will be destroyed, but does this destroy the mountain as my friend argues?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was assuming not as it is only destroying an enchantment, and that when my mountain is enchanted with the card it only targets the enchantment not the card it is attached to, like if I had another card say, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Truefire%20Paladin&quot;&gt;Truefire Paladin&lt;/a&gt; attached with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shiv%27s%20Embrace&quot;&gt;Shiv&amp;#39;s Embrace&lt;/a&gt; and he used it do destroy the enchantment Shiv it will not destroy Truefire just Shiv's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11904" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T10:51:52.837" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T18:40:46.210" Title="Will destroying an enchantment attached to a permanent also destroy that permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23123" CreationDate="2015-02-20T10:24:56.913" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;An effect does what it instructs you to do unless there's a rule that has you do something, and there isn't one here. If you destroy an enchantment, the enchantment is destroyed and your mountain is no longer a creature. Nothing states that the mountain would be destroyed as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11675" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T18:40:46.210" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T18:40:46.210" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21279" CreationDate="2015-02-20T10:53:49.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the rules go you could just look it up (see other answers/comments). I'm going to assume instead you are asking the philosophical/mechanical reasons for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the key ways to reduce your opponent's score in Ticket to Ride is to stop them making tickets so that they get negative points for them at the end of the game. On the original US map blocking is a very important strategy. You try and guess what routes your opponent is going for and then block them with your own trains. This works best when they are most of the way to connecting two medium routes and you snipe a 2-or-3 carriage route in the middle (e.g. St. Louis to Nashville). At worst it forces them to re-route and potentially complete less tickets overall. At best it can be a game winning strategy, especially late game if they don't have the trains to re-route around the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously a good opponent will do their best to throw you off the scent and block you in retaliation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The double routes help to alleviate the power of blocking strategies, especially down the middle of the US map where you can potentially scupper multiple long tickets in a few good moves. I also really enjoy the meta aspect that can be introduced by double routes: You need to convince other players to block the player who's route is clearly going that way. The fun that is gained from this depends on who you play with so YMMV.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe goes even further in allowing people to circumvent blocking by introducing train stations that allow you to use another player's route to complete your tickets. Which of these types of play you prefer will of course affect which version you will prefer. (I personally think Europe is far superior for new players but I am enjoying the US map from a tactical standpoint).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably worth also mentioning that double tracks work differently in some of the expansions as they have different numbers of players. On the 2-3 player Switzerland Map:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 3 Player games, players can use both tracks of the double-routes. In 2 Player&#xA;  games, once one of the tracks of a double-route is taken, the other one is no longer available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on the India Map:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In 4 Player games only, players can use both tracks of the double-routes. In 2 and 3 Player games, once one of the tracks of a double-route is taken, the other one is no longer&#xA;  available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T10:53:49.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19223" CreationDate="2015-02-20T11:07:11.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you played &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/38453/space-alert&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Space Alert&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/113294/escape-curse-temple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Escape&lt;/a&gt;? Both these games force co-operation by use of a soundtrack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Space Alert things can go awry that cause you to be delayed or bump into each other and it is different every time. While a regular player may have ideas things can still go completely wrong and screw their plans. You have to co-operate to win and even thinking carefully is no guarantee of success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Escape you are forced to co-operate by having multiple objectives all over the place and a dice rolling mechanic. You don't have the time to think or plan a strategy much and so the focus on action ensures co-operation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T11:07:11.553" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16646" CreationDate="2015-02-20T11:36:50.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could set-up your own SQL database. You can download the free &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.heidisql.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heidi SQL&lt;/a&gt; software cross-platform (uses WINE for Linux/Mac) for accessing an SQL database. SQL will easily provide the database requirements you are talking about. If you have an entry in the database that contains the location of a card prototype image then a fairly simple program could be written to call those locations from the database and print the images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, optionally, typeset your cards using LaTeX: &lt;a href=&quot;https://tex.stackexchange.com/questions/48061/creating-playing-cards-using-tikz-part-2&quot;&gt;https://tex.stackexchange.com/questions/48061/creating-playing-cards-using-tikz-part-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you used LaTex you could have a subdirectory for each card and call all those cards from one LaTeX file to compile them into one printable pdf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:36:12.120" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T11:36:50.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1162" CreationDate="2015-02-20T12:11:52.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule books on &lt;a href=&quot;http://dogspiel.info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://dogspiel.info&lt;/a&gt; or from board manufacturers leave it open. Popular software implementations like the &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/ch/app/dog-board-game/id458599976?l=en&amp;amp;mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;iPhone/iPad app Dog Board Game&lt;/a&gt; or the web-based BrettspielWelt.de use the 2 vs 2 vs 2 variant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tIxrq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dog app on iPad, screen shot of 6-player card giving phase&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the 3 vs 3 you have to define who receives a card from whom in the team: do you give a card to your team member on the right, on the left, or both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played both variants, but I prefer the 2 vs 2 vs 2 variant and have played it more often. It gets particularly exciting when the two trailing teams start collaborating to prevent the leading team from finishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11905" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T12:11:52.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22894" CreationDate="2015-02-20T13:00:36.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sourceforge.net/projects/xoridor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Xoridor&lt;/a&gt; is available as a .jar file that will run wherever you have a Java installed and supports 2 or 4 players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This version (mentioned in a comment): &lt;a href=&quot;http://danielborowski.com/quoridor-ai/display.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://danielborowski.com/quoridor-ai/display.html&lt;/a&gt; is the first hit on Google and works in browser but only seems to be two player. I beat it on my first attempt but I'm used to 4 player games. Since the code is on GitHub you could probably extend it to 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also found this link here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://becool.info.ucl.ac.be/aigames/quoridor2013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://becool.info.ucl.ac.be/aigames/quoridor2013&lt;/a&gt; That has been coded in python.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this in Java: &lt;a href=&quot;https://code.google.com/p/quoridorai/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://code.google.com/p/quoridorai/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="7151" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T14:05:28.590" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T14:05:28.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22778" CreationDate="2015-02-20T13:25:38.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The direct answer to your question is there isn't a rule that covers this eventuality. The rules state however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In Two Rooms and a Boom, part of the fun is the lack of rules. Players can say&#xA;  whatever they want, do whatever they want, and come up with whatever strategy they&#xA;  want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it would be a fairly easy to say a leader &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be chosen before people swap between rooms. Otherwise you could ask the question what if someone hasn't been chosen by a leader before rooms must swap? The answer is the game doesn't work. You &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to send someone across and so you also &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to have a leader by that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group is struggling in particular with this then maybe you need to appoint a Games Master for the game for a few playthroughs until people get into the swing of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play this game almost every week for multiple rounds at the University game society. We have never had this problem. (In fact it is rare that leader isn't decided within a few seconds of a round starting as nearly always the first question asked is &quot;Who should be leader?&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T13:25:38.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23123" CreationDate="2015-02-20T13:46:21.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am guessing that your friend's misconception is that the enchantment somehow &quot;merges&quot; with the mountain, since they now mentally identify it as a 7/7 creature, but this is an error. There is a card affected and a card doing the effect, and they are always separate in this case. The loss of the enchantment stops the mountain from being a 7/7, but that was an effect applied to the mountain; it was always a regular mountain underneath the transformation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T13:46:21.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2015-02-20T14:36:55.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 4 player game, you can make sure the researcher is in play for one of the players, and deal the other 3 roles from the deck. I have played with almost every combination of roles (with 2 and 4 players) and the researcher has significant advantage and is very difficult to win with 4 player without her. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11910" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T14:36:55.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23133" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-20T19:21:36.227" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T19:21:36.227" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T19:21:36.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23134" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-20T19:21:36.227" Score="0" Body="Card game played with one pack of cards by two players who seek to 'meld' sets of three or four cards of the same rank to clear their hand." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-02-20T23:39:14.820" LastActivityDate="2015-02-20T23:39:14.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23136" CreationDate="2015-02-20T21:46:28.580" Score="4" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;When opener bids a &quot;strong&quot; two club, responder bids two diamonds (waiting), and the opener rebids his suit, e.g. two spades, the responder is now the &quot;captain&quot; of the partnership. That's because s/he knows that opener has 8-9 tricks in hand, and what partner's suit is. In most cases, it's now the responder's job to evaluate his own hand at 0, 1, 2 or more tricks for the final contract. Nevertheless, some cards in responders' hands are more valuable than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where would these (responder) tricks come from if s/he's relatively weak. An ace is a sure trick, but opener might have most of these. Can a king be counted as a trick on the theory that opener has the ace, or maybe the queen for &quot;synergy?&quot; How about other assets such as the queen of &quot;trumps&quot; (the opener's named suit), small &quot;trumps,&quot; or &quot;distribution?&quot; I don't give as much weight to random queens and jacks (outside the named suit), even if they add up to 5-6 high card points or should I?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do various systems or experts formulate their responses to two clubs, two diamonds, followed by a rebid of two of a suit or 2NT?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T15:58:53.570" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T15:53:00.860" Title="How does one evaluate a hand responding to a &quot;strong&quot; two clubs?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23135" CreationDate="2015-02-20T23:41:52.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The system I have played for many years is as following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1. Opener rebids NT to show a balanced hand with a well defined point range:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Responder evaluates his hand as balanced unless making a transfer bid into his own suit. These auctions are very similar to 2NT openings except with greater strength having been shown by Opener.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;1a. Opener rebids 2NT with a semi-balanced hand of appropriate strength (usually a range of 22-23 HCP) and a 5-card major (not longer) with an agreement enabling Puppet Stayman. Advantage is that Responder's second negative doesn't place Notrump contracts in his hand with the strong hand exposed and led through.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder will almost always rebid 3C (Puppet Stayman) to allow Opener to reveal a hidden 5-card major (or 6-car minor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;2. Opener makes a simple rebid in his Major suit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder bids 2NT as a second negative with either less than 3-card&#xA;support or 3 cards only and a bust hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder raises to 4 of Opener's major with 3 or 4 card support and a few scattered points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder raises to 3 of Opener's major with 3+ card support and slam interest, but no outside control.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder bids a new suit to show a control (either A or K) in the suit bid, 3+ card support for Opener's major, and no reason to deny slam interest.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder jumps in a new suit to show 4+ card support and shortness in the bid suit with no reason to deny slam interest. Generally this call is preferred to the simple cue-bid, as controls can be asked for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;3. Opener makes a simple rebid of his minor suit:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder rebids as above, but with the change that all bids above 3NT emphatically deny interest in 3NT (obviously). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Responder rebids 3NT with a balanced 7 or 8 count well scattered and lack of interest in slam. The inference is that responder believes 9 or 10 tricks are available through sheer power, but that the fit is insufficient to make slam realistic. Opener continues only if a) his hand is completely unsuitable for notrump; or b) his hand requires only 2-card support to play well in his minor.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miscellaneous comments on the situation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is vital to remember that will not be Captain for the auction will not be the 2C opener but rather responder. The key descriptive features of a 2C opener are that it is a strong hand, and can be described adequately in 2 calls so that partner can be captain. More complex hands should not be opened 2C, and both members of the partnership needs to be aware of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, all attempts at step and control responses to the 2C opener have been abandoned by serious players (with the possible exception of pure relay systems, which you cannot play in most tournament events). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the hand &lt;code&gt;xxxxx-xxxx-x-xxx&lt;/code&gt; can be golden if opener's suit is spades with three worthless diamonds, and garbage if opener's suit is diamonds with three worthless  hearts. No bidding system can hope to describe the range of partner's hands adequately to opener, especially  when that conversation has to start at the three level, which is why responder is the captain as soon as the 2C opener is made, until and unless the opener can glean enough information to bid Blackwood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the ways in which opener becomes captain if he has support for a &lt;em&gt;quality 5-card suit&lt;/em&gt; (or longer) shown by responder as a positive response. When this happens opener sometimes is in a better position to judge the combined playing capability of the hand by bidding Key-Card Blackwood &lt;em&gt;in responder's suit&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the captain can ask for key-cards, because the premise is that the key-card responses will allow the asker to place the contract, both denomination and level, and only the captain can make that call (or make the requisite invitation). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opener can take over as captain only when responder &lt;em&gt;leads opener to believe&lt;/em&gt; that his (responder's) hand is fully described - there are circumstances where it may be appropriate for responder to have a stronger hand and/or a different fit in mind than &lt;em&gt;he has lead opener to believe&lt;/em&gt;, but that is an advanced bidding technique that intermediate players have difficulty handling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it is critical that all responder's calls while opener believes himself captain be &lt;em&gt;in sente&lt;/em&gt; rather than &lt;em&gt;in gote&lt;/em&gt;, so that responder will have the guaranteed opportunity to make the final correction.  This can require responder to have considerable foresight in planning the auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-02-21T18:14:50.493" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T18:14:50.493" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21161" CreationDate="2015-02-21T00:41:03.100" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a standard way to store those cards in the big box. Your big box should've come with a couple of large bookmark-shaped cards. One side has a bunch of card names upon decorative scrolls, like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zv1zb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a card marker with adventurer, smithy, bureaucrat, etc&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;photo from &lt;a href=&quot;http://toddsboardgames.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/dominion.html&quot;&gt;Board Game Barker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you're supposed to do with this organiser card is to lay it down in the center of the box, between all the card slots. In the big box, that will look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SahfH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;laid down between the two rows of slots&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;photo from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Dominion_series&quot;&gt;the Board Game Geek page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put it down the right way, each card's name will sit &lt;em&gt;directly&lt;/em&gt; beside a card slot. This organiser card will tell you which slot to put each card in. The thicker slots (e.g. the money slots) will have more corresponding spacing on the organiser card, so make sure those line up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This organiser card also means I can check very easily where cards are: I can just look at the organiser, search for the name I'm after, and pull the cards out of the corresponding slot, which beats having to pull various piles out one by one trying to hunt for the right one. In the first photo, I can tell the Adventurer was put in that top left slot, the Bureaucrat beneath it, Cellar beneath that, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reverse side of the organiser card, with a bunch of blank scrolls, is for you to fill out if you ever come up with an alternative organisation scheme you'd like to use instead. (E.g. maybe you'd like to group all the attack cards together in the box, or something.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T23:58:59.543" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T23:58:59.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2015-02-21T02:04:35.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could &quot;almost&quot; play &quot;part of&quot; a game, blindfolded, using Descriptive notation.  I'm lost in Algebraic, without a chessboard in front of me, with the letters on the sides, ESPECIALLY when playing black.  So, when I'm playing chess, I'm thinking the three or so moves forward, descriptively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for asking.  I'm happy Tournament Chess lets you use either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, I recently found two oldies, at &quot;The Bookshop&quot; [a Chapel Hill, NC Used Book Store].  The first is &quot;Chess Strategy&quot;, by Edward Lasker.  The other is 500 Master Games of Chess, by Tartakower and Du Mont.  I purchased them immediately (even, when short, financially), because they both use Descriptive Notation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11914" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T02:04:35.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23142" CreationDate="2015-02-21T04:04:27.793" Score="7" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;During an Ancient One final battle, do investigators roll for Blessed/Cursed and any other Upkeep rolls? (Not sure if there are any others that matter, since Retainer is useless then). I find that the rules tend to be a bit vague on this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of a round of combat with an Ancient One, the investigators may refresh their cards, use any character abilities, and adjust their skill sliders as though it were the Upkeep Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it strange that &quot;make an Upkeep roll&quot; is not listed in the things that are to be done, and the wording &quot;as though it were an Upkeep Phase&quot; makes it unclear to me whether or not this omission means that it is like an Upkeep Phase, but deliberately lacks this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came up when we played against Yig. We all got Cursed when he came out (per his card), but we couldn't figure out if we could roll to get uncursed. We decided the omission and the &quot;as though it were an Upkeep Phase&quot; meant that we didn't. However, we think we might have done that wrong since we got it handed to us even though the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzcGFQTWdvZW5jc1JwcHEzUEVZV1htUVE&amp;amp;hl=en_US#gid=6&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Statistics Report&lt;/a&gt; says that he's the easiest to defeat in a straight up final battle (with only 37% fail rate as of this writing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So do investigators roll for Blessed/Cursed and any other Upkeep rolls during a final battle? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T18:39:11.937" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T18:39:11.937" Title="Do characters perform Upkeep actions, such as rolls for Blessed/Cursed, during a final battle?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23141" CreationDate="2015-02-21T04:25:45.133" Score="1" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AliZyklaTCWzcGFQTWdvZW5jc1JwcHEzUEVZV1htUVE&amp;amp;hl=en_US#gid=7&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Statistics spreadsheet&lt;/a&gt; lists one of the ways to awaken the Ancient One as &quot;Opening the gate of Kadath&quot;. To date, it has never been achieved and I'm curious about why. I took a look through all of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Unknown_Kadath&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the encounter cards for Unknown Kadath&lt;/a&gt; but didn't see any that referenced opening a gate that would awaken the Ancient One.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how does one open the gate of Kadath and why is it so difficult that it has never been accomplished yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T06:02:09.317" Title="How do you awaken the Ancient One by opening the gate of Kadath?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23140" CreationDate="2015-02-21T06:02:09.317" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/File%3AGate101.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this encounter&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Unknown Kadath&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to your pitiful knocking, the massive gate of the Castle of the Great Old Ones swings wide. Lose 1 Stamina and 1 Sanity. If you are devoured as a result, the Ancient One immediately awakens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a literal physical gate in the encounter, not a gate like the ones that open normally during the game. And for some reason you decide to knock on it. Pretty hard to awaken the Ancient One that way - you have to manage to get that encounter &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; already be at 1 Stamina and 1 Sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T06:02:09.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23139" CreationDate="2015-02-21T07:04:32.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is clarified/fixed in the FAQ in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/DH_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dunwich Horror rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Battling the Ancient One&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: In combat with Ancient Ones, do investigators get a full Upkeep Phase, or is the Upkeep Phase limited in some way during the final battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Investigators get a full Upkeep phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you roll for blessings and curses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only assume they wrote the original rules the way they did because it's not a normal turn - it's combat, and you don't have any normal turn phases. (No movement, no encounters, no mythos.) So they were perhaps thinking it wasn't &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; an upkeep phase, and you simply do everything you would do if it were an upkeep phase. And then for some reason they tried to list the things you do in the upkeep phase instead of just saying &amp;quot;everything&amp;quot;. Obviously that was pretty misleading!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T07:04:32.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-21T17:08:56.567" Score="12" ViewCount="1178" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Catan seafarers expansion, when playing the road building card, can a settlement be built between building a free road and building a free ship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11917" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T15:24:25.200" Title="When playing the road building card, can a settlement be built between a free road and a free ship?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23143" CreationDate="2015-02-21T17:36:25.413" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original German (I've the first German edition) uses the word &lt;em&gt;sofort&lt;/em&gt; meaning &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; so from that I'd say no.  Later and American/English versions may differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, under what circumstances can you not immediately follow the placing of the two roads with placing a settlement between them, within the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2015-02-21T17:36:25.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23145" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:26:20.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Asia Engulfed&lt;/em&gt; is a strategy wargame for two players simulating the Asian theatre of World War II. It is a spinoff to &lt;em&gt;Europe Engulfed&lt;/em&gt; and can be combined with it. The game was first published in 2007 by GMT Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:45:44.043" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:45:44.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23146" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:26:20.493" Score="0" Body="A strategy wargame for two players simulating the Asian theatre of World War II." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:45:36.050" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:45:36.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23147" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:37:04.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wooly Bully&lt;/em&gt; is a tile placement game where players enclose sheep so that they aren't eaten by wolves. It was first published in English in 2003 by Asmodee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:45:29.467" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:45:29.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23148" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:37:04.487" Score="0" Body="A tile placement game where players enclose sheep so that they aren't eaten by wolves." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:46:02.067" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:46:02.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23149" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:40:15.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Heroes of Normandie&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;miniatures game without miniatures&quot; for two players inspired by World War II action movies. It was first published in 2014 by Devil Pig Games and has since been published by IELLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:45:46.967" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:45:46.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23150" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:40:15.943" Score="0" Body="A &quot;miniatures game without miniatures&quot; for two players inspired by World War II action movies" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:45:52.483" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:45:52.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23151" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:45:15.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Villages&lt;/em&gt; is a fantasy game in which players compete to obtain 100 gold by building villages and battling opponents. It was first published by The Game Crafter, LLC in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11374/villages&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1991 game by the same name&lt;/a&gt; published by Jolly Games or &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/village&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'village'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;village&lt;/a&gt;, also published in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:29.510" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:29.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23152" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-21T20:45:15.623" Score="0" Body="A fantasy game in which players compete to obtain 100 gold by building villages and battling opponents." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-22T02:45:25.453" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T02:45:25.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2015-02-22T09:05:06.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the list of card I've came across as being banned:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#E198&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ratcatcher&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E minor &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#I81&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wooden Hut Extension&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#E197&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Braggart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#I238&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chamberlain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#I260&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taster&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#K291&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lover&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#K270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wet Nurse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K minor &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#K138&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reed Hut&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K minor &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#K125&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Broom&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;G occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#G037&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Late Sleeper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#Z329*&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mail Coach Driver&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O minor &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#%C3%9617&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guest Worker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z minor &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#Z320&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Maypole&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Z occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#Z327&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Herald&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C occ &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html#C06&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fortune Teller&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T09:05:06.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23157" CreationDate="2015-02-22T09:47:00.123" Score="1" ViewCount="892" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of your 7 Wonders game how do you decide which wonder each player gets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What is the intended default rule?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Something I'm unsure about is if you are supposed to mix sides A and B. Is it fair and balanced if some players are playing side B?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there other ways that your group decides how to pick wonders, which work and are fair?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11920" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T15:45:50.537" Title="How do you select wonders at the beginning of a 7 Wonders game?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-02-23T02:00:03.577" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-22T11:56:49.143" Score="4" ViewCount="1115" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you build a card bell tower, the game can be completed after the 7th turn. Can somebody destroy the bell tower with armory, after he build the seventh card? And if it can be destroyed, is the game over anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11922" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T17:29:46.520" Title="Bell tower end game" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22682" CreationDate="2015-02-22T12:24:29.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From my personal experience - I am also sometimes inclined to shuffle my discard pile during other player's turns, but I refrain from doing so mainly because of two following reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;its potential to disrupt player's orientation (myself including) and flow of the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possible issues it might create with cards that deal curses or give you cards in other people's turns (e.g. Ambassador)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The temptation is strongest when I know that I will take the cards remaining in my deck through action cards that I have in my hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I rather pay attention to the flow of the game i.e. what others are doing in their turns (it pays out), and also develop quick and efficient technique of shuffling cards during my turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T12:24:29.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23154" CreationDate="2015-02-22T13:05:58.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Default rule is that playing cards are provided within the box and players pick from them in the usual random way. Also when they turn the card face up, they play the the side of the letter which is up (i.e. if A letter on the card is upwards they play A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my personal experience and based on opinions of people I play it with - It doesn't matter if you mix A and B together. B side is intended for advanced players, A is intended for beginners (with A side Giza and Rhodos as ideal starting wonders for novices). &#xA;Sure, we may argue that B side is stronger and, in the hands of experienced player, it probably is - but the main game &quot;magic&quot; happens through card deal and player's actions within their chosen strategy.&#xA;Also it is a matter of personal preference - e.g. I love playing for B side of Babylon, which most of the people I play it with do not like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the third question - no, not really, as it makes only minimal difference for the base game without expansions, which I believe that you refer to. What we do sometimes is that before we choose wonders to play, we randomize an order in which we sit around the table, as we believe, that particular people as your neighbors in the game can make difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11923" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T13:05:58.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23076" CreationDate="2015-02-22T14:48:51.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/23743/arkham-horror-gate-seal-prioritypdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;document&lt;/a&gt; on &quot;Gate Seal Priority&quot; was a little bit misunderstood. It seems to be meant as advice on which gate to close, given that you HAVE TO close a gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest drawback with closing gates as opposed to sealing them is that if they reopen, a new doom token is placed on the doom track. In my group we ALWAYS save up and clues and seal games unless the &quot;gate limit&quot; is very nearly exceeded and no-one has enough clue tokens tokens. In this desperate instance, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/23743/arkham-horror-gate-seal-prioritypdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;document&lt;/a&gt; on &quot;Gate Seal Priority&quot; is a great way of determine which gate to close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even when playing with expansions that has the &quot;gate burst&quot; rule(gates open even when sealed), we always seal. This is because gate bursts do not put new doom tokens on the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-02-22T14:48:51.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23155" CreationDate="2015-02-22T19:03:01.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to all the FAQ's I have seen the armory can still be used to destroy the bell tower after the 7th district is build since the card does not disallow it like the warlord does. While the warlord says 8 districts it must be remembered that the bell tower modifies the rules to change winning from 8 to 7 which would also change what is on the warlords cards. However even if you do destroy the bell tower the game would still end as the end game condition is triggered when it is met not at the end of a round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://desktopgames.com.ua/games/3/citadelsrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player builds his eighth district, the game ends after the current round is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule does not care if something happens after the victory conditions are met but just that they where. And in this case the conditions where changed from 8 to 7, they where met and then later changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the official &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/support/citadels-faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: If the Bell Tower is in play, can the Warlord&#xA;  destroy someone’s seventh district?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No. The Bell Tower makes a seven-district city&#xA;  “completed,” and the Warlord cannot destroy districts in a&#xA;  completed city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: How do you handle the endgame scoring bonuses&#xA;  when the Bell Tower has been built?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: The bonuses are awarded for seven districts instead&#xA;  of eight. If one or more players have seven districts when&#xA;  the Bell Tower is built, they all get the four bonus points&#xA;  for simultaneously meeting the seven district condition.&#xA;  If the Bell Tower is built as someone’s seventh district, he&#xA;  and anyone else with seven districts get four bonus points&#xA;  for simultaneously meeting the endgame condition; any&#xA;  players to subsequently reach seven districts before the&#xA;  round (and the game) ends get two bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T17:29:46.520" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T17:29:46.520" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23162" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23163" CreationDate="2015-02-23T04:39:37.130" Score="2" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soulflayer&quot;&gt;Soulflayer&lt;/a&gt; has delve and reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature card with flying was exiled with Soulflayer's delve&#xA;ability, Soulflayer has flying. The same is true for first strike,&#xA;double strike, deathtouch, haste, hexproof, indestructible, lifelink,&#xA;reach, trample, and vigilance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Winged%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Winged Sliver&lt;/a&gt; reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Sliver creatures have flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is... does Soulflayer gain flying if a Winged Sliver that was in the graveyard is exiled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T14:39:11.570" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T14:39:11.570" Title="If Soulflayer exiles a Winged Sliver from the graveyard via delve does it gain flying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23162" CreationDate="2015-02-23T04:55:21.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the Winged Sliver does not have flying but grants itself that ability along with all other sliver creatures. The first ruling on the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soulflayer&quot;&gt;Soulflayer&lt;/a&gt; page says that it does not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature cards that have abilities that grant the listed keyword abilities to themselves won’t count. For example, exiling a Battle Brawler (a creature with “As long as you control a red or white permanent, Battle Brawler gets +1/+0 and has first strike”) with Soulflayer’s delve ability won’t cause Soulflayer to have first strike, even if you control a red or white permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, for further clarification on the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Winged%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Winged Sliver&lt;/a&gt; page&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature type of a Sliver changes so it’s no longer a Sliver, it will no longer be affected by its own ability. Its ability will continue to affect other Sliver creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T14:24:52.143" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T14:24:52.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23143" CreationDate="2015-02-23T05:18:15.290" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it cannot. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4776-development-cards-progress-road-building-may-i-use-road-building-card-build-1-road-and-1&quot;&gt;the official Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Development Cards – Progress – Road Building - May I use a Road Building card to build 1 road and 1 ship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Yes. You must build them one after another though. &lt;strong&gt;You are not allowed to first build a road via a Road Building card, then build a settlement adjacent to that road by paying the required resources, and finally use the Road Building card once again, this time to build a ship.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T15:24:25.200" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T15:24:25.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23412" CreationDate="2015-02-23T11:56:47.530" Score="3" ViewCount="4770" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Risk Classic rules do not seem to specify if territory cards drawn by players are kept face-up or face-down. I can't seem to find anything about this from my research and I was wondering if anyone could clarify on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;Thought I'd add some quotes from the official rules for reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Earning Cards&quot; doesn't seem to specify if the cards are drawn face-up/face-down and if they are then proceeded to be kept face-up/face-down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Earning Cards. At the end of any turn in which you have captured at&#xA;  least one territory, you will earn one (and only one) RISK card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reference to face-down cards I can find are when the player has traded them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For quick reference, keep traded-in cards face down under the bottom edge of the game board&#xA;  to mark the value (in armies) of the next trade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only advantage I can see to having open-information card drawing is you know if they will be getting reinforcements on their next turn since the number of reinforcements you get scales according to the number of traded sets which is open-information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11929" LastEditorUserId="11929" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T13:00:41.083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T16:44:01.230" Title="In Risk Classic, are territory cards drawn by players kept face-up or face-down?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23166" CreationDate="2015-02-23T13:06:01.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rules don't specify it, I guess house rules are required! I've always played that they're drawn face down, so noone else knows whether you'll be handing in a set this go or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T13:06:01.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23168" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22801" CreationDate="2015-02-23T13:16:54.130" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;f3 x e5&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Knight takes Pawn&lt;/strong&gt; - does give you a 1 point advantage on &lt;em&gt;your turn&lt;/em&gt;. However black can retaliate with &lt;em&gt;c6 x e5&lt;/em&gt; taking your knight without fear of any retribution which resets the advantage in black's favour. Interestingly note that this move also defends against &lt;em&gt;c4 x f7&lt;/em&gt; which also results in a positional advantage to black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;c4 x f7&lt;/em&gt; - &lt;strong&gt;Bishop takes Pawn&lt;/strong&gt; - gives you a 1 point advantage as well but crucially results in a check. Black cannot retaliate with &lt;em&gt;e8 x f7&lt;/em&gt; since that would result with check from your queen on &lt;em&gt;b3&lt;/em&gt;. Interestingly this is also a check; you are forcing black to move his King thus preventing him from developing any defence/offence for this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to consider how the material advantage will change on your opponent's turn as well as your turn when making your move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Pieter Geerkens stated the key difference is the guaranteed loss. Theoretically you could lose a 3 point piece from &lt;em&gt;c4 x f7&lt;/em&gt; (i.e. the Bishop), however your loss is not guaranteed in the next turn and any attempts to threaten the Bishop with another piece allows you to respond before the Bishop is taken. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11929" LastEditorUserId="11929" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T20:11:26.347" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T20:11:26.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23176" CreationDate="2015-02-23T14:47:01.707" Score="6" ViewCount="8561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any good deck which uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/be/en/22.html&quot;&gt;Lich&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, there is some very corner-case where &lt;strong&gt;having it in the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; will help you, such as if you have fewer life than permanents, &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you are about to kill your opponent, but even in that case, you'd rather have a card which actually kills him, rather than this…&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: is it just a terrible card, or is or has there been any actual use?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is if there is a &lt;em&gt;deck&lt;/em&gt; where it would make sense to &lt;strong&gt;put this card and not another one&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;NOT&lt;/strong&gt; if there is a strange corner case where if you magically happened to have this card in your hand, it would make sense to play it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T15:05:30.857" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T15:52:08.997" Title="Has there ever been any use for Lich?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23169" CreationDate="2015-02-23T15:06:57.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lich is an extreme card advantage card. If the battlefield is balanced - no advantage to either player in attacking - and your opponent is not playing direct damage, and you have any repeatable life gain at all, you will draw your whole deck in short order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't a card you could drop into any Black deck; it requires you to construct a deck around it. But a good combo deck is designed to reproduce the conditions that are good for the combo. So the disadvantages are mitigated and you have a powerful card drawing engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T15:06:57.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23169" CreationDate="2015-02-23T16:25:04.740" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLich%5d&quot;&gt;Lich&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDeath%27s%5d%2b%5bShadow%5d&quot;&gt;Death&amp;#39;s Shadow&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMagus%20of%20the%20Mirror%5d&quot;&gt;Magus of the Mirror&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRepay%20in%20Kind%5d&quot;&gt;Repay in Kind&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-02-11T12:49:20.650" LastActivityDate="2017-02-11T12:49:20.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23173" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-23T17:19:15.830" Score="1" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cackling%20Counterpart&quot;&gt;Cackling Counterpart&lt;/a&gt; to create a token of a creature, can i use cards targeting that token (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=21375&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pack Hunt&lt;/a&gt;) to search my library for that same creature cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11931" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T18:21:48.037" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T15:07:26.487" Title="Can i search a copy of a card in the battlefield in my library?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23173" CreationDate="2015-02-23T17:33:34.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you create a copy of something you copy pretty much everything about it including its name&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Copying_objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt; [706.2.]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. And Pack Hunt only needs a creature to target, it doesn't care if the creature is a token or a real card all it care about is that it is a creature. So Pack Hunt will happily find more of whatever creature you happened to copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the created token isn't a copy, the effect that created the token gave it a name. This name is either specified explicitly by the instruction that created the token, or it defaults to the creature's type(s). This name will usually not be the name of the cards in your library, so you will generally not be able to find any matching cards. There are a few cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Mentor&quot;&gt;Llanowar Mentor&lt;/a&gt; that makes tokens named &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; so if you had a token made by the Mentor you could find cards named Llanowar Elves. There is also an odd case with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Splintering%20Wind&quot;&gt;Splintering Wind&lt;/a&gt; which makes tokens named Splinter, which would allow you to find the card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74615&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Splinter&lt;/a&gt; even though it isn't a creature card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T15:07:26.487" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T15:07:26.487" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23101" CreationDate="2015-02-23T18:12:15.047" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thalin's ability fires before the &quot;Surge&quot; keyword can resolve, here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/lotr-lcg/support/LotR-FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; entry:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an enemy card is revealed from the encounter&#xA;  deck, Thalin’s ability resolves before any keyword or&#xA;  “When Revealed” card effects on the encounter card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11933" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T18:12:15.047" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23176" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23169" CreationDate="2015-02-23T18:37:23.700" Score="15" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Why was Lich created?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is the real subtext of your question: why does Lich exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think to understand Lich, you've got to put it in context: &lt;strong&gt;it's a flavor-first design from Alpha&lt;/strong&gt;. Lich is, first and foremost, supposed to feel like lichdom in fantasy stories, particularly Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons: undeath, power and immortality at a grave price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing the card does well is establish a big theme for black: trading away your life for power in near-suicidal ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, one of Alpha's biggest shortcomings is that it's all over the map about what cards are worth as a resource. On the one side, you've got cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAncestral%20Recall%5d&quot;&gt;Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt;. On the other, you've got &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLich%5d&quot;&gt;Lich&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Lich is an early attempt to do something pretty tricky in Magic, and it is, by most standards, a misfire (part of what hurts it now is errata which forces &amp;quot;cards&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;nontoken permanents,&amp;quot; thereby cutting off many strategies for artificially inflating your permanent count). You can see attempts to refine this design in various cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNefarious%20Lich%5d&quot;&gt;Nefarious Lich&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNecropotence%5d&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;What can you do with Lich?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nearly any card this weird is fodder for at least a few combos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lich turns life gain into cards. This is very pretty powerful because it's easier to gain 1 life than to draw a card, but any deck built around this as an enabler is going to be rather fragile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lich sets your life total to zero. You can try to abuse this with various cards, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirror%20Universe%5d&quot;&gt;Mirror Universe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lich makes life loss that isn't damage meaningless to you. (Look at &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAd%20Nauseam%5d&quot;&gt;Ad Nauseam&lt;/a&gt; for instance).  Note that you can't &lt;em&gt;pay&lt;/em&gt; life, either, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lich will kill &lt;em&gt;its controller&lt;/em&gt; when it goes to the graveyard. You could try to set up some Donate-style combos with this, but it's pretty bad because you need other cards to ensure you don't die at zero life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Is it good in a competitive environment?&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But most Magic cards aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-04T15:34:21.193" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23177" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23214" CreationDate="2015-02-23T19:11:05.610" Score="4" ViewCount="2540" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a mission with Luke Skywalker as an ally and the mission requires that I pick up 'X' mission tokens and carry them to a location on the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/8c/53/8c53f757-cafc-4e1c-be2f-ba87efb4db92/swi01_rules_reference.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rebel allies are not heroes. During their activation, they&#xA;  cannot interact with crates or rest. Rebel allies can perform&#xA;  only one attack each activation, and follow all other rules for&#xA;  non-hero figures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find the &quot;all other rules for non-hero figures&quot; part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that Luke (or another Ally) can pick up mission tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T05:53:51.017" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T05:53:51.017" Title="Can allies interact with mission tokens?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23178" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-23T19:22:25.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/star-wars-imperial-assault/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official site and description&lt;/a&gt;: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Imperial Assault is a strategy board game of tactical combat and missions for two to five players, offering two distinct games of battle and adventure in the Star Wars™ universe!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Imperial Assault puts you in the midst of the Galactic Civil War between the Rebel Alliance and the Galactic Empire after the destruction of the Death Star over Yavin 4 with two separate game experiences. The campaign game pits the limitless troops and resources of the Galactic Empire against a crack team of elite Rebel operatives as they strive to break the Empire’s hold on the galaxy, while the skirmish game invites you and a friend to muster strike teams and battle head-to-head over conflicting objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/164153/star-wars-imperial-assault&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the campaign game, Imperial Assault invites you to play through a cinematic tale set in the Star Wars universe. One player commands the seemingly limitless armies of the Galactic Empire, threatening to extinguish the flame of the Rebellion forever. Up to four other players become heroes of the Rebel Alliance, engaging in covert operations to undermine the Empire’s schemes. Over the course of the campaign, both the Imperial player and the Rebel heroes gain new experience and skills, allowing characters to evolve as the story unfolds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Imperial Assault offers a different game experience in the skirmish game. In skirmish missions, you and a friend compete in head-to-head, tactical combat. You’ll gather your own strike force of Imperials, Rebels, and Mercenaries and build a deck of command cards to gain an unexpected advantage in the heat of battle. Whether you recover lost holocrons or battle to defeat a raiding party, you’ll find danger and tactical choices in every skirmish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the Return to Hoth expansion enables a 4-player free-for-all Skirmish mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple expansion boxes and individual Ally and Villain Figure Packs are available, which include more figures, abilities, cards, and missions that expand the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AzWsi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Star Wars Imperial Assault &amp;quot;Core&amp;quot; game box art&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="2246" LastEditDate="2017-01-23T22:00:22.530" LastActivityDate="2017-01-23T22:00:22.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23179" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-23T19:22:25.993" Score="0" Body="Star Wars: Imperial Assault is a 'One vs Many' style board game that uses the same base rules set as Descent 2.0" OwnerUserId="35" LastEditorUserId="35" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T22:11:50.060" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T22:11:50.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23180" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-23T20:01:59.390" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T20:01:59.390" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T20:01:59.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23181" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-23T20:01:59.390" Score="0" Body="A card based version of the popular settlers of catan where dice have been removed and all game mechanics are based on luck of the deck rather then luck of the dice." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-02-23T20:41:08.067" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T20:41:08.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18019" CreationDate="2015-02-23T20:03:46.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the interest of &lt;em&gt;forging the narrative&lt;/em&gt; and through a step-by-step playthrough of the shooting phase, I believe it is unambiguous that &lt;strong&gt;Jink must be declared before Markerlights&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau player enters the shooting phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau elects a unit to attack with the Markerlight, a ranged weapon with the special rule &amp;quot;Target Acquired&amp;quot;.  This attack may not be saved against (p.68).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tau player might say, as an example, &amp;quot;this unit is attacking your jetbikes with my markerlights&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau player rolls and completes the attack(s) applying markerlight tokens to the jetbike unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau player declares a new shooting attack against the markerlit unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tau player might say, &amp;quot;this unit is attacking your jetbikes with these plasma weapons.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau player asks if the defending player has any response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau player, having given the defending player a chance to declare jink, can then declare usage of markerlights and how they are spent &lt;em&gt;specifically&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tau player may then make to-hit rolls and resolve the attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some may point out that per the jink special rule, targeting occurs &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; opting for jink, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; declaration of weapons. In my experience, games &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; break up attacks into individual steps, asking for acknowledgement after each step; it is more natural (and time-saving...and fun) to make more complete declarations--always giving &lt;em&gt;no less&lt;/em&gt; than the amount of information required at that point in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put in a more concrete example, the Tau player does not say &amp;quot;this unit is attacking your jetbikes with these plasma weapons and I'm expending 2 markerlights for Scour (ignores cover)&amp;quot;.  The Tau player simply makes his intent clear while giving an opportunity for the defender to make his tactical response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nor does the Tau player say &amp;quot;this unit is attacking your jetbikes, do you jink?&amp;quot;  The Tau player consolidates the first 3 steps of Nominate, Target Unit, Select Weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that declaring the plasma weapons (step 3 of the Shooting Sequence, BRB) occurred at the same time as step 1 and 2 may be technically &amp;quot;out of order&amp;quot;, but the attacking player doing so does not put the defending player at a disadvantage by doing so. On the contrary, the defending player now has &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; information on which he can decide whether or not he wishes to jink, while still retaining the option to jink or not, because Jink simply must just occur before To-Hit rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forging the Narrative&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A unit of jetbikes has been markerlit.  Then, the markerlit squad&#xA;recognizes plasma weapons from a distance unit re-orienting and&#xA;pointing right at them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to the incipient barrage of&#xA;plasma, the Jetbikes make a split decision to Jink or not to Jink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing that they jinked (or didn't jink), the plasma&#xA;cannons--exploiting this new advantage--Pinpoints, Scours, and/or&#xA;Seeks and completes their attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the attacking squad with plasma weapons call out &amp;quot;Hey, we're ignoring your cover!&amp;quot;?  No, it doesn't seem likely that they literally &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; know; thus, they must make their decision which happens before shots are fired.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 40k emphasizes Forging the Narrative so much, it seems apparent that from FTN standpoint, Jinking must occur before Markerlights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule-as-Written&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if one were to laboriously go through each step of the rules with each player having their turn, in turn, Jink optioning occurs before markerlight expending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tau enters the shooting phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tau elects a unit to make attack with, waits for acknowlegment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tau elects a unit to attack, waits for acknowlegment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defender decides whether to jink&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tau selects a weapon, waits for acknowlegment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tau expends markerlights&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tau makes to-hit rolls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going through the shooting sequence one at a time still ends up with the same result: markerlights can be spent knowing whether the defender jinked or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule as written, it almost would be &lt;em&gt;more clear&lt;/em&gt; had the rulebook left out one sentence, as it adds very little to the clarity of the intended rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a unit with any models with the jink special rule is selected as&#xA;a target for a shooting attack, you may declare that it will jink. &lt;s&gt;the&#xA;decision must be made before any of the to hit rolls have been made.&lt;/s&gt;&#xA;If the unit jinks all models in the unit with this special rule gain a&#xA;4+ cover save until the start of their next movement phase, but they&#xA;can only fire snap shots until the end of their next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crossed-out line is redundant (as &amp;quot;selected as a target&amp;quot; is always before to-hit rolls), but adds the ambiguity (to some) that Jinking can happen any moment up until the dice hit the table. This does not seem to be the case: the timing is exact, after the target has been selected and before the Tau has even selected a weapon. And if defenders choose to Jink before the weapon has been selected, then certainly markerlights come after Jink, which happens immediately before firing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or put another way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Action must happen &lt;strong&gt;at&lt;/strong&gt; step 2. (target)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Action must happen &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; step 4. (rolling dice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are not contradictory, but the latter &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; unnecessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sequencing, BRB&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any of this is not convincing enough, the BRB states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While playing Warhammer 40,000, you’ll occasionally find that two or&#xA;more rules are to be resolved at the same time – normally ‘at the&#xA;start of the Movement phase’ or similar. When this happens, and the&#xA;wording is not explicit as to which rule is resolved first, then the&#xA;player whose turn it is chooses the order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case the dispute is about &amp;quot;immediately before shooting&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;before to-hit rolls are made.&amp;quot;  In the event the players agree that both &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be resolved at the same time, but it is uncertain which would then be resolved first, the Tau player may choose the order.  To his best advantage, &amp;quot;before to-hit rolls are made&amp;quot; can be chosen to resolve first, then &amp;quot;immediately before shooting&amp;quot;--once again allowing the expending of Markerlights to occur &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; Jink optioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the players &lt;em&gt;do not agree&lt;/em&gt; they should be resolved simultaneously (and be subject to the acting player's whim), the players involved should roll-off to settle rule-disputes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-02-23T22:46:24.603" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22886" CreationDate="2015-02-24T17:08:19.710" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience as a board game enthusiast/collector I find that many players of varying experience levels will first access the board from a statistical standpoint. The tiles that hold numbers 5 to 9 are the most likely to generate the greatest amount of resources over the course of the game and therefore are the most desirable. Ergo a good starting position would be on the intersection of as many of these numbers as possible such as 8-5-9. If you prefer the &quot;port&quot; strategy look for these numbers (especially 6 and 8) that are adjacent to a port and attempt to work around that. Remember you also gain resources from your second placement. Even if the most desirable spaces have been taken, you may be able to get a quintessential resource from a starting village. Looking at resources, wood and brick are typically essential to winning, however wheat is the most diverse because it is used for 3 of 4 developments. With that said, through observation, I have found that a port strategy works the best, when there is a title adjacent to a resource of its type along with another one of those tiles holding a &quot;desirable&quot; number. Other than that I would say a solid placement regardless of strategy would be to place adjacent to as many desirable numbers (worst case scenario, you have allot of goods you don't need) and if needed using your second placement to gain resources you deem &quot;hard to get&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11942" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T17:08:19.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T20:27:14.017" Score="1" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;Who retains control of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humble%20Defector&quot;&gt;Humble Defector&lt;/a&gt; if, after it is activated, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Refocus&quot;&gt;Refocus&lt;/a&gt; is cast targeting it and its ability is used again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that the player activating the Defector would draw four cards (five with Refocus), but would he/she also get to retain the Defector (a la Avarice Totem) is the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11946" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T20:40:50.140" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:54:06.047" Title="Humble Defector and Refocus" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23185" CreationDate="2015-02-24T20:38:13.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent would still gain control of Humble Defector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that by &quot;after it is activated&quot;, you mean before the ability has resolved. After you activate Humble Defector's ability the second time, then there will be two instances of its ability on the stack, both targeting an opponent of yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the second activation resolves, you draw two cards and you give control of the card to the previously chosen opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the first activation resolves. Even though your opponent has control of Humble Defector, you still control the ability that's resolving, so you draw two more cards you give control of the card to the previously chosen opponent (if it's a different opponent than the one that currently controls it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the effect were written along the lines of &quot;Opponent of your choice gains control of Humble Defector&quot;, it would still end up under the control of an opponent since you control both abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-02-24T21:54:06.047" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:54:06.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T21:01:00.137" Score="1" ViewCount="10847" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a question regarding Ticket To Ride. Can part of one train be used to fulfill two different destination routes? For example, my clever son completed his San Francisco-Atlanta “Destination Ticket” (17 bonus pts.). He then drew the Portland-Nashville “Destination Ticket” (also 17 bonus points) and decided this would be a cinch since he had already completed San Francisco to Atlanta. He simply added another 5 train cars, from San Francisco to Portland, and claimed another 17 bonus points for the Portland-Nashville ticket! I think he should not be allowed to do this, but should complete a whole separate train between Portland and Nashville to earn those 17 additional points. I may be reading the rules too quickly, but I don’t see where the rules explicitly address this one way or the other. Do you know if there is an “official” rule on this? Or is it up to people to determine this in their own house rules? Thanks for any tips you have!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11947" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T07:39:36.463" Title="Ticket to Ride: May a train segment count for 2 different routes?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-02-25T18:44:47.397" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23187" CreationDate="2015-02-24T21:08:07.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride, any segments you have placed can and will work for any Routes you wish to complete.  By sheer luck he pulled one that required very little additional track and re-used much existing track. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's unfortunate for you as an opponent, but it is something both of you can leverage, legally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_rules_2013_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Rules PDF&lt;/a&gt; doesn't seem to call this out specifically (nor does it refute it), but it is how I've seen the game played in person as well as on the &lt;em&gt;official Ticket to Ride PC game&lt;/em&gt;. Track re-use seems in the spirit of the game, to say the least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T21:08:07.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-24T22:58:09.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I resolve a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt;, can I crack a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lion%20Eye%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Lion Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt; before I draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11949" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T03:10:40.103" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T01:30:06.113" Title="Can I respond to a draw from Gitaxan probe?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23189" CreationDate="2015-02-24T23:10:08.517" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not as you have written, while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt; is resolving no one can do anything since no one has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you could cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt;, hold priority, and then activate &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lion's Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt;, thus you will get to draw after discarding your hand because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt; has not resolved yet (as you did not pass priority). This won't allow you to look at your opponent's hand before deciding of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T17:24:46.590" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:24:46.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23189" CreationDate="2015-02-24T23:10:15.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLions%20Eye%20Diamond%5d&quot;&gt;Lions Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt; before drawing a card, you must do so before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGitaxian%20Probe%5d&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt; resolves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can respond to another event, like your opponent playing a spell or activating an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, there is no opportunity to respond to your spell once it has begun resolving. You will get priority after the spell resolves, and at that time you can activate your Lion's Eye Diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this question for more details:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12535/can-a-player-respond-while-a-spell-is-resolving?rq=1&quot;&gt;Can a player respond while a spell is resolving?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T15:22:01.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23187" CreationDate="2015-02-24T23:25:04.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone I've ever played with count as long as you have a train route that connects to both ends on the card you are good to go.  You don't need 'Make a new route'.  That is a large part of the fun of the game and the challenge to decide if to draw more destination tickets near the end.  &quot;will I already be connected to some? Or will I only need one more 'link' to complete another?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Destination Ticket includes the name of two cities on the map and a Point Value. &lt;strong&gt;If a player successfully completes a series of routes that connect&#xA;  the two cities&lt;/strong&gt;, they will add the amount of points indicated on the Destination Ticket to their point totals at the end of the game. If they do not&#xA;  successfully connect the two cities, they deduct the amount of points indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The high-lighted part just says they need to be connected, not connected again.  Also other editions of Ticket to ride (Europe) build on this tactic buy have railway station to use others tracks to a similar purpose.  If you play with more than 2 people you will see it makes a lot more sense to play that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-02-24T23:25:04.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23198" CreationDate="2015-02-24T23:59:55.343" Score="4" ViewCount="2134" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing casually, I have seen runners occasionally access some cards but decline accessing the remaining (typically due to hitting a trap and being concerned about subsequent traps).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules I can see related to &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/rules#rop91&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Accessing Cards - NetrunnerDB&quot;&gt;Accessing Cards&lt;/a&gt; are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runner can access cards in any order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When accessing multiple cards, the Runner accesses them one at a time&#xA;  in any order he likes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each card must fully resolve before the next is accessed. Agendas end the game IMMEDIATELY, stopping further access.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner must fully resolve his access to a card (steal it, pay to&#xA;  trash it, etc.) before accessing the next card. If the Runner scores&#xA;  an agenda that gives him seven or more points, he immediately wins the&#xA;  game, even if he would otherwise access more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clarification for the end of the access phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the Runner has accessed all required cards, he returns any cards&#xA;  not stolen or trashed to their original play states. For example, an&#xA;  unrezzed card in a remote server returns facedown to that server, and&#xA;  a card accessed from HQ returns to HQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some other clarifications as well for dealing with R&amp;amp;D, archives, and HQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules, however, don't explicitly state that a Runner can opt to stop accessing cards (in fact, the use of the term &quot;required&quot; makes me believe that it is quite the contrary).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, I am asking for cards similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04073&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Shock! - NetrunnerDB&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; that deal damage when accessed. If one is in Archives, does that mean that the runner &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; access the card (and take 1 net damage) every time he accesses cards in archives? Or can the runner simply access the cards he wants first, then stop accessing cards before hitting &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04073&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Shock! - NetrunnerDB&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11950" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:22:42.680" Title="Can a runner end the run before accessing all cards?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23194" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-25T03:52:42.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tobago&lt;/em&gt; is an adventure game where players possess different parts of treasure maps and compete to find the treasures first. Two English versions were first published in 2009, one by Rio Grande Games and another by Zoch Verlag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T13:52:33.457" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T13:52:33.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23195" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-25T03:52:42.207" Score="0" Body="An adventure game where players possess different parts of treasure maps and compete to find the treasures first." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T13:52:26.933" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T13:52:26.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23201" CreationDate="2015-02-25T03:58:44.143" Score="4" ViewCount="642" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Caspian Sea is a lone body of water south of Caucasus and north of the Middle East. It is also not connected to any other sea location and does not have a zone number. Here is how it appears in &lt;em&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies 1941&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPBQj.png&quot; alt=&quot;The Caspian Sea, from Axis &amp;amp; Allies 1941&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it permitted to build a ship in this location in any version of &lt;em&gt;Axis &amp;amp; Allies&lt;/em&gt;? I realize that it is rather impractical to do so, but in the rare chance that you want to invade a bordering country with some naval support on your side and have the ability to pull it off, is it permitted to build a ship in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T00:44:06.183" Title="Can you build a ship in the Caspian Sea?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23187" CreationDate="2015-02-25T07:39:36.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The object of the game is to score the highest number of total points. Points can be&#xA;  scored by:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ◆ &lt;strong&gt;Claiming a Route&lt;/strong&gt; between two adjacent cities on the map;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ◆ Successfully completing a Continuous Path of routes between two cities listed on your Destination Ticket(s);&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ◆ Completing the Longest Continuous Path of routes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't think of it as building trains, but as claiming routes. The plastic trains are only there to show that the route is yours.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once you've claimed a set of routes between Atlanta and San Francisco, you can (and should) use and re-use this route as often as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T07:39:36.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23193" CreationDate="2015-02-25T09:08:36.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Accessing Cards in Netrunner&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Access in Netrunner is highly dependent on server location.  The following draws primarily from the latest &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, and is supplemented by my notes/clarifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accessing Archives&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ, with additional emphasis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When accessing cards in Archives, the Runner turns &lt;strong&gt;all cards&#xA;  faceup&lt;/strong&gt; in Archives &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; accessing them. Then he accesses and&#xA;  resolves &lt;strong&gt;individual cards one by one&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;in any order he wants&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the runner has a choice in terms of order of access (if there are multiple agenda points and 3 Shocks, they can access the agendas first and theoretically win the game before the Shocks flatline them), but they &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; access every card in the archive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note about accessing archives, if the Runner uses a replacement effect based upon a successful Archives run (such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02101&quot;&gt;Retrieval Run&lt;/a&gt;), then none of the cards there get flipped (e.g., the runner does not get a free peek at what is hiding there).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accessing Multiple Cards from HQ&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are given multi-card access from HQ, you must access your &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt; number of cards (e.g., if you are successful making a run using &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05035&quot;&gt;Legwork&lt;/a&gt;, you must access 3 cards).  You do so one at a time, and fully resolve each access before moving on to the next.  Cards accessed in this manner do not return to HQ until you are finished accessing all 3 (so you pick one card from HQ, look at it, put it aside, pull another, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accessing Multiple Cards from R&amp;amp;D&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when accessing multiple cards from R&amp;amp;D there are a few notes in the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner can intersperse accessing cards from R&amp;amp;D with any upgrades installed in the root of R&amp;amp;D. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Runner cannot choose to access the cards in R&amp;amp;D out of order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, with multi-access, you always start with the top card of R&amp;amp;D and work your way down, fully resolving each before moving onto the next one (e.g., you can't fail to trash an installable asset, see the next card, and then decide to trash the previously seen asset).  At any point during these accesses you can alternate between R&amp;amp;D proper and its root (in the case of upgrades installed in the server).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Accessing Cards in a Remote Server&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you choose to access cards in a remote server, it works in a similar fashion.  Once committed to accessing, the runner &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; access &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; cards in the remote server, however they are able to choose the order of access (and it should be apparent which card in the server has been advanced, as well as which card was placed in the server most recently, if applicable).  For example, the Corporation is not allowed to shuffle the cards in the remote server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Circumventions of the Above Rules&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in the majority of cases the number of cards available for access is completely dictated by access location and board state (e.g., access &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; cards in Archives or in a remote server, access 1 card from HQ/R&amp;amp;D if running without any special card effects), there are a few cards that do give the runner slightly more leeway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01010&quot;&gt;Medium&lt;/a&gt; states: &quot;Each virus counter after the first on Medium &lt;strong&gt;allows&lt;/strong&gt; you to access 1 additional card from R&amp;amp;D whenever you access cards from R&amp;amp;D&quot;. This is not a &lt;strong&gt;required&lt;/strong&gt; additional access, like the other cards described above.  According to the FAQ, how this plays out is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before accessing cards from R&amp;amp;D at step 4.5 of a run, the Runner&#xA;  chooses how many cards he wants to access when using Medium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after the run is successful (by passing all the ICE and deciding that you will access cards), the player must commit to the number of cards that they will access.  If Medium has 7 counters on it, the Runner could choose any number between 1 and 7 - however, once that number is chosen, they must access that number of cards.  There is no window to jack out after the number of cards has been declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in contrast to cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05035&quot;&gt;Legwork&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02085&quot;&gt;HQ Interface&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02107&quot;&gt;R&amp;amp;D Interface&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01036&quot;&gt;The Maker's Eye&lt;/a&gt;, which all are &lt;strong&gt;mandatory&lt;/strong&gt; effects (if run is successful, &quot;access 2 additional cards&quot; - there is no room to declare a different value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, it should also be noted that even if you are using one of these cards that have a mandatory effect for additional access, you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have a window at step 4.2 of a run to jack out after passing all the ICE but before committing to access. This can be especially useful if, for example, you face-checked a &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05017&quot;&gt;Komainu&lt;/a&gt;, and fear that some of the cards you access will cause you to flatline. For the purposes of other card effects, such a run would be considered &lt;strong&gt;unsuccessful&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2015-02-25T16:03:39.530" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:03:39.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23189" CreationDate="2015-02-25T15:10:02.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To achieve what you're wanting, you'll have to do as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Cast Gitaxian Probe&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Before passing priority to your opponent, activate Lion's Eye Diamond&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Once you discard your hand and get your mana, Gitaxian Probe will remain on the stack (and can resolve as normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is to remember to immediately &lt;strong&gt;activate Lion's Eye as soon as you cast Gitaxian Probe&lt;/strong&gt; (BEFORE passing priority to your opponent, otherwise it will be too late (unless he responds to gitaxian probe).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T15:10:02.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23135" CreationDate="2015-02-25T15:23:40.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question depends strongly on partnership agreements about 2C openings and followups. Evaluation as the weaker hand in the auction depends strongly on the types of hands partner might have. A reasonably common 2C agreement in the US follows these lines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2C shows most hands with 22+ HCP, and shapely hands with 8.5+ top tricks (though e.g. AKQJxxxxx x x xx, lacking any honors outside the primary suit, is not appropriate for this call). Whether this includes strong, shapely two-suiters that do not have game in hand (e.g. QJxxx A AKQxxx A) depends on your responding style -- since I do not pass 1D holding Kxx xxxx xx xxxx, my partner can safely open that hand 1D with little fear of missing a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Responder bids 2D (waiting) with nearly all hands, reserving positive responses for very limited situations (e.g. bid 2M with a six-card suit holding exactly two of the top three honors and no outside A, K, or Q, or bid at the three level with similar honor holdings and a 7-card suit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With balanced hands (including those with 5-card majors), opener bids NT at some level (though strongly consider adding &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.larryco.com/BridgeArticles/ArticleDetails.aspx?articleID=573&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Kokish relay&lt;/a&gt; to your repertoire) to limit their hand strength and make responder the captain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With hands unsuitable for NT rebids, opener rebids a suit. A typical agreement is that a jump in a suit sets that suit as trump. Here opener typically has a shapely hand and is looking for specific cards to bid slam, so opener is captain. With one partner I play that after 2C-2D-3M, responder should cue-bid an ace or bid 3NT to show no aces but one or more kings in hand, or 4M otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opener's non-jump rebid, neither partner is captain -- neither partner has enough information to make decisions about strain or level. Bidding must proceed naturally, and partnership understandings are necessary to determine whether and how it is possible to stop short of game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you evaluate your hand as responder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opener's NT rebid, evaluate using standard methods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opener's jump-rebid of a suit, opener has captaincy -- you're there to tell partner about the key cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After opener's simple rebid, opener is unlikely to be very shapely, so you'll evaluate as in a normal auction, just starting a level higher. Things to look for: sources of tricks (long suits headed by multiple honors), cards that fit with partner's suit(s), aces and kings. Queens and jacks in unbid suits are unlikely to be terribly helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T15:23:40.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23196" CreationDate="2015-02-25T16:33:53.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are versions of Axis and Allies that allow building ships in the Caspian Sea. This is the exception tough. In Axis and Allies 1941/1942, the Caspian Sea is not considered a sea zone and you cannot build any ships there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies 1940 Europe/Global, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.harrisgamedesign.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=39&amp;amp;t=4278&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Caspian Sea is a sea zone&lt;/a&gt;. Therefore, you can build ships there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11954" LastActivityDate="2015-02-25T16:33:53.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23073" CreationDate="2015-02-26T01:50:18.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to make it an easy and fast rule, a player MUST play the larger part of the roll, if he can play ONLY one part of his dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above example, if red rolls 21, he MUST play 3/1, and is not permitted to play 3/2, this is not a choice, its a mandatory move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11958" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T01:50:18.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23204" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-26T04:53:10.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Kamisado&lt;/em&gt; is a game where two players compete to get an octagonal &quot;dragon tower&quot; to the opposite side of the board. The first edition was published by Burley Games in 2008 and later versions were published by HUCH! &amp;amp; friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:33.740" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:33.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23205" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-26T04:53:10.757" Score="0" Body="A game where two players compete to get an octagonal &quot;dragon tower&quot; to the opposite side of the board" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:37.963" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:37.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23206" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-26T05:06:36.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Castles of Burgundy&lt;/em&gt; is a game where players take the role of aristocrats who expand their princedom to win the most victory points. It was first published in 2011 by alea and Ravensburger Spieleverlag GmbH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:04.427" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:04.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23207" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-26T05:06:36.373" Score="0" Body="A game where players take the role of aristocrats who expand their princedom to win the most victory points." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:14.797" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:14.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23208" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-26T05:25:14.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Game of the Goose&lt;/em&gt; is a traditional board game in which players players compete to reach the final square on a spiral track. Accounts of its existence date back to at least the 1500s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_of_the_Goose&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:01.587" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23209" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-26T05:25:14.003" Score="0" Body="A traditional board game in which players players compete to reach the final square on a spiral track." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:42.727" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:42.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23210" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-02-26T05:47:29.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Village&lt;/em&gt; is a worker placement game where players take control of families who seek fame and glory. It was first published in 2011 by eggertspiele and Pegasus Spiele.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/villages&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'villages'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;villages&lt;/a&gt;, also published in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:08.470" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:08.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23211" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-02-26T05:47:29.473" Score="0" Body="A worker placement game where players take control of families who seek fame and glory." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T12:50:11.723" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T12:50:11.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23213" CreationDate="2015-02-26T08:54:27.770" Score="4" ViewCount="3019" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating a combo deck, and I'm interested in the probability of having a certain combo on the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this combo, I need 4 different cards. There are 4 copies of each of these cards in the deck. The deck has 60 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the probability of seeing these 4 cards in the starting hand of 7 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7850/how-do-you-calculate-the-likelihood-of-drawing-certain-cards-in-your-opening-hand&quot;&gt;How do you calculate the likelihood of drawing certain cards in your opening hand?&lt;/a&gt;, but my question is a little different and I don't know how to calculate this probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11956" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T18:28:14.713" Title="What's the probability of having a combo on the first turn in MTG?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23212" CreationDate="2015-02-26T10:05:13.470" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do this calculation using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypergeometric_distribution#Multivariate_hypergeometric_distribution&quot;&gt;multivariate hypergeometric distribution&lt;/a&gt;. The setup is as follows:&#xA;The deck of 60 cards consists of: 4 cards of type A, 4 cards of type B, 4 cards of type C, 4 cards of type D, and 44 cards of type E (other).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your criteria are that a hand of 7 cards contains at least 1 card of type A, at least 1 card of type B, at least 1 card of type C, and at least 1 card of type D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a given hand arrangement, you can calculate the probability using the formulas in the link. As an example, the probability of the hand (1 card of type A, 1 card of type B, 1 card of type C, 2 cards of type D, and 2 cards of type E) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 2) * (44 choose 2) / (60 choose 7) = ~0.000941.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this probability is for this specific hand, and there are many that meet your requirements. You will want to make a table of all realizable hands and sum up the probabilities. (or alternatively a table of all hands that don't meet the criterion, and subtract the sum from 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=== table of realizable hands ===&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,1,1,1 of (A, B, C, D), 3 of other&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (44 choose 3) / (60 choose 7) = ~0.00879&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,1,1,2 of (A, B, C, D), 2 of other [4 variants]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 * [(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 2) * (44 choose 2) / (60 choose 7)] = ~0.00376&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,1,2,2 of (A, B, C, D), 1 of other [6 variants]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 * [(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 2) * (4 choose 2) * (44 choose 1) / (60 choose 7)] = ~0.000394&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,2,2,2 of (A, B, C, D), 0 of other [4 variants]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 * [(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 2) * (4 choose 2) * (4 choose 2) / (60 choose 7)] = ~0.00000895&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,1,1,3 of (A, B, C, D), 1 of other [4 variants]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 * [(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 3) * (44 choose 1) / (60 choose 7)] = ~0.000117&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1,1,2,3 of (A, B, C, D), 0 of other [12 variants]&#xA;12 * [(4 choose 1) * (4 choose 1) * (4 choose 2) * (4 choose 3) / (60 choose 7)] = ~0.0000119&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Total Sum of above = ~0.01307&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T06:51:30.860" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T06:51:30.860" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23177" CreationDate="2015-02-26T11:01:20.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never played the game, but it seems as though the rules consistently refer to either &quot;figures&quot; or &quot;non-hero figures&quot;. So a hero is a special kind of figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some quotes from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During a &lt;strong&gt;figure’s&lt;/strong&gt; activation, it may perform two actions. The available actions are Attack, Move, Interact, Rest, and Special.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  [...]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A &lt;strong&gt;figure&lt;/strong&gt; can perform the same action multiple times during the same activation except as follows:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - A &lt;strong&gt;non-hero figure&lt;/strong&gt; can use only one of its actions to perform an attack per activation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  - A &lt;strong&gt;figure&lt;/strong&gt; can perform each special action only once per activation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  [...]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Rebel allies are not heroes. During their activation, they cannot interact with crates or rest. Rebel allies can perform only one attack each activation, and follow all other rules for &lt;strong&gt;non-hero figures&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  [...]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Some missions allow &lt;strong&gt;figures&lt;/strong&gt; to retrieve specific tokens. A figure adjacent to or in the same space as the token can perform an interact to retrieve the token. Place the token on the figure’s base to mark that the &lt;strong&gt;figure&lt;/strong&gt; is now carrying that token. The token now moves with the &lt;strong&gt;figure&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  [...]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  During a campaign, each Rebel player controls a hero. The word “Hero” is used to refer to &lt;strong&gt;hero figures&lt;/strong&gt;, the player controlling the figure, and all of the associated components. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it says 'figures' in the piece about mission tokens, and does not exclude 'non-hero figures', I'd say a non-hero figure can collect mission tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T11:01:20.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23224" CreationDate="2015-02-26T15:22:22.180" Score="9" ViewCount="2671" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a simple question, but couldn't find an answer anywhere: is it possible to fill an Othello/Reversi board with one color?&#xA;I already played some games where one of the two opponents was wiped out, but in these case the board was never filled. It is possible to wipe out your opponent on the last move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11961" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-15T13:49:13.090" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T13:49:13.090" Title="Is it possible to fill an Othello/Reversi board with one color?" Tags="|othello|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23219" CreationDate="2015-02-26T16:20:42.067" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is white 4 in this diagram not joseki? How can it be punished by black and how bad is it compared to standard joseki play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..3.2.....|&#xA;$$ ...4..1...|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A partial answer is probably: &quot;Because this variation &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; joseki and it looks more forcing&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..3.2.....|&#xA;$$ ..4...1...|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2015-02-26T16:29:57.063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:43:12.567" Title="Why is this NOT joseki?" Tags="|go|joseki|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14486" CreationDate="2015-02-26T16:45:19.220" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one of the biggest difference one sees between an experienced and a novice player is that the beginners hit the checkers almost without considering the alternatives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lot of positions where you're better off with not hitting. Just a tip to remember: Backgammon is not a game of hits, its a game of positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11958" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T16:45:19.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23217" CreationDate="2015-02-26T17:04:28.317" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's that the joseki move is forcing, it's more that the joseki move is better.  5 here is pretty sad for White.  For 4 to be joseki, you would need a response to this move that turns out better than the accepted sequence for White.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..3.2.....|&#xA;$$ ..54..1...|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-02-26T17:04:28.317" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6122" CreationDate="2015-02-27T03:00:33.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are referring, my friend, is called gambits.&#xA;They are done for achieving a better position by giving away a small piece like pawn. Usually, when the player offers a gambit, it is up to the opponent to accept or reject the play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11964" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T03:00:33.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23439" CreationDate="2015-02-27T11:33:17.557" Score="2" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played the Exodus expansion with the Cylon fleet option for the first time last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had a situation where there was a single basestar on the main board, and we'd damaged it with the &quot;can't launch raiders&quot; token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the crisis told us &quot;Basestars launch raiders&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&#xA;a) Nothing&#xA;b) Raider appears on cyclon fleet board &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T03:41:19.070" Title="BSG Exodus: What happens with a damaged base star on launch raiders?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23216" CreationDate="2015-02-27T13:47:12.290" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a youtube link showing a game where black fills the entire board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prWG1OFgVqg&amp;amp;t=0m30s&quot;&gt;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=prWG1OFgVqg&amp;amp;t=0m30s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the game starts at 30s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T13:47:12.290" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23225" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-27T15:00:48.310" Score="1" ViewCount="15636" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the person to the left of the dealer starts play with a 5, the next person plays a 5, the third person plays a 5 and finally, the dealer plays a 5, what is the count for the dealer?  Obviously the count is 20 and the points would be 12 because of four-of-a- kind.  But within that, could the 15s add up another 8 points (four combinations of 15 for two)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11967" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T14:14:55.033" LastActivityDate="2019-02-22T18:25:38.047" Title="In cribbage, during the play, what is the count for four 5s in a row?" Tags="|cribbage|scoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2015-02-27T15:18:02.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;During play you don't count 15s for card combinations, only for the total count.  So the third person got two points for making the total count 15, but the dealer only gets the 12 points for the four of a kind.  In the same way, if the lead was a three, followed by a king, followed by a 5, the person playing the 5 would not score any points for the play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T15:26:28.833" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T15:26:28.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23227" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23235" CreationDate="2015-02-27T16:14:55.527" Score="1" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in a casual game with a friend last night. He is the runner with an economy based upon the &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=supplier&amp;amp;sort=set&amp;amp;view=list&amp;amp;_locale=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Supplier&lt;/a&gt;. One turn he hosted a &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/07055&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Data Folding&lt;/a&gt; on it. At the start of his turn the &quot;start of turn&quot; effects trigger, and since it is his turn he picks the order. He claimed he could have the supplier resolve first, and then still get the money off the newly in play Data Folding. This didn't seem right to me as Data Folding wasn't in play when the &quot;start of turn&quot; effects triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about a similar situation. He already has a data folding in play and wants to use the &quot;start of turn&quot; credit from it to pay for something else already hosted on the supplier. Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T13:56:52.967" Title="How exactly do &quot;start of turn&quot; affects trigger" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23230" CreationDate="2015-02-27T18:07:29.370" Score="20" ViewCount="12837" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;You should know better than to pick up a duck in a dungeon.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I, really? Most of the cards in basic Munchkin are humorous references to Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons or other tabletop RPG culture. I'm fairly familiar with both, though my history of personal involvement in them may not be long. But I just don't get the joke here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LxFEG.jpg&quot; width=&quot;200&quot; height=&quot;297&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this meant to be an &quot;inside joke&quot; for D&amp;amp;D/RPG fans, or is it just some random humor made up for the Munchkin universe? If it is an existing cultural reference, what is it referring to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="677" LastEditDate="2015-02-27T18:40:08.573" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T00:54:06.433" Title="What's behind the &quot;Duck of Doom&quot; card?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2015-02-27T20:10:11.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's a reference to anything &lt;em&gt;specific&lt;/em&gt;, other than the tendency for sadistic Dungeon Masters to make innocuous items into deathtraps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I wouldn't be surprised if one of Grimtooth's Traps had a Duck in it.  While the Grimtooth's Traps books are out of print, a recent &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1409961192/grimtooths-ultimate-traps-collection&quot;&gt;KickStarter&lt;/a&gt; finished with plans to reprint all the books in the series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T20:10:11.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2015-02-27T21:00:35.747" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a long and storied tradition of unspeakably awful deathtraps showing up in dungeons. Kind and generous dungeon masters would allow such traps to be &lt;em&gt;found&lt;/em&gt;, but others would skip the tedious step of permitting the party Thief to check for traps, and simply spring the trap upon the unsuspecting victim, sans saving throw, sans opportunity to escape, and sans chance to survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These evil Dungeon Masters often point to Gary Gygax as their inspiration. Gygax was, by most accounts, a tough-but-fair DM, but he also created the module &lt;a href=&quot;http://1d4chan.org/wiki/Tomb_of_Horrors&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tomb of Horrors&lt;/a&gt;: the most trap-filled, instantly-lethal, no-saving-throw dungeon published at that time. (It may still remain the most-lethal professionally-published dungeon, for all I know.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of the kind of traps Gygax used in the Tomb of Horrors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tapestry that, when torn, fills the entire room with green slime (which is nigh-instantly fatal).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A variety of cursed things: a Cursed Spear of Backbiting (does exactly what it says on the tin, to your back), valuable items that summon demons when taken, and a gem seems to grant you a wish, but then explodes (killing all within 15 feet)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An archway that causes you to reverse gender and alignment if you walk through it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A variety of teleport traps that take you back to the beginning of the dungeon, sans your equipment.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A giant face, with a 3' wide mouth you could crawl into &amp;ndash; it's actually a Sphere of Annihilation (die immediately, no save). Some of the teleport traps mentioned above  dump you right in front of said face (instead of at the dungeon entrance), possibly giving you the impression that if you walk into the face, you'll end up back where you were before you teleported.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a personal note, I have played through a few Gygax-inspired dungeons. The twisted traps that a clever DM can come up with are truly amazing, truly enlightening, and truly lethal. (It was good fun; we all expected to die horribly, and were not disappointed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Duck of Doom, then, is likely inspired by exactly that sort of Evil Dungeon Master. &lt;strong&gt;A duck that curses you horribly the instant you pick it up is exactly the kind of thing that an Evil DM would put in.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the phrase &quot;Duck of Doom&quot;, the oldest role-playing-game-related results I found on Google were from Munchkin, so Munchkin itself is likely the originator. (There's some ancient Australian bird, Bullockornis, occasionally called the Demon Duck of Doom, but it's utterly unrelated to &quot;harmless&quot; rubber ducks in dungeons and cursed items.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T00:54:06.433" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T00:54:06.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23232" CreationDate="2015-02-27T21:36:31.273" Score="10" ViewCount="12750" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am totally new to checkers/draughts. I have just learned the rules today, and I have a question about a specific rule: why is capturing mandatory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if we changed the rules so that capturing is optional like any normal move? Would the game become completely unplayable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10385" LastActivityDate="2021-04-18T03:44:11.637" Title="Why is capturing mandatory in checkers/draughts? What if capturing was optional like any normal move? Would the game become completely unplayable?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23231" CreationDate="2015-02-27T22:06:12.697" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the game does not become unplayable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Years ago, I regularly played without mandatory capture rules, and found the experience enjoyable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also something called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huff_%28board_games%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Huffing Rule variant&lt;/a&gt;, where the capture is not forced, but by not taking the capture you lose that piece after your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="22010" LastEditDate="2017-10-10T02:01:52.993" LastActivityDate="2017-10-10T02:01:52.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2015-02-27T23:57:40.117" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've got no evidence for it, but I guess there's a chance it could be a nod to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://elgoonishshive.wikia.com/wiki/Demonic_Duck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Demonic Duck&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.egscomics.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;El Goonish Shive&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Demonic Duck is a minor recurring character in El Goonish Shive. In canon, he only appears when a distraction is needed and he is summoned. A character will stumble into an awkward situation, try to use the duck as a distraction and either flee from the situation or change it to be less awkward. The duck will then usually grumble about feeling used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11971" LastActivityDate="2015-02-27T23:57:40.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23227" CreationDate="2015-02-28T13:56:52.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the start of turn triggers happen at 1.2 every card &lt;em&gt;currently&lt;/em&gt; in play which has a start of turn trigger tries to trigger. Since it's the runner's turn, their effects go first. The runner can choose the order of their own effects, so you can gain a credit from data folding, and then use that credit to pay to install something off The Supplier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you cannot do is install something off The Supplier / Personal Workshop and then have that newly installed card trigger a start of turn ability; it wasn't in play for the start of turn signal, and so has missed it's chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are correct, and the Data Folding wouldn't have given him any money for that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2015-02-28T13:56:52.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T16:45:03.767" Score="0" ViewCount="1864" Body="&lt;p&gt;So there is some ambiguity in the rules about Boars where the example seems to conflict with the rule statement.  This leads to the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Boars go inside the cave (For example in the base room or the mixed dwelling)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidence that any kind of animal may live in the starter dwelling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The text says 'pair of animals'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidence that only 'farm animals' may live in the starter dwelling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;p20 example says 'The entry level room of your cave can hold 2 Farm&#xA;animals of the same type.'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These seem to contradict each other mildly (farm animals or any animal?).  This inconsitency may indicate possible errors in rules diagrams.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More evidence for inconsitency in diagrams:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dogs are counted as farm animals in the example on page 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is stated on page 10, 'Dogs are not considered farm animals'&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two pieces of information explicitly contradict.  Therefore we must conclude there may be errors in the diagrams on the rules.  However, if boars are explicitly farm animals, there is no issue.  So this ruling depends on what is actually a farm animal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidence for Boars as Farm Animals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are in the house diagram on p10. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On p10, they are indicates as breeding animals, and it is stated that&#xA;only farm animals breed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are in pastures on pp 6,20&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Evidence against Boars as Farm Animals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They are called Wild Boars on Page 1 of the Rules book.  Farm animals&#xA;are not wild in the common language usage of the term farm and wild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On Page 5, picture, states 'A forest stable can hold 1 Wild boar, but&#xA;no other animals'  This differentiates boars from the other animals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no 'boar farming' action (which also true of cattle).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On p20, an explicit distinction is made between a stable in a meadow&#xA;and a stable in a forest.  'Boars may be in forest' which is&#xA;presented in the context of an exceptionary clause to farm animals&#xA;being able to be stored.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It is not explicitly stated anywhere that 'wild boars are farm&#xA;animals'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an implication that boars are farm animals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is an implication that boars are not farm animals.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are clear and explicit errors in exemplary diagrams which may&#xA;weaken the strengths of either side of these implications, and also&#xA;possibly, the authority of the diagrams as opposed to the text.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, absent a clear, congruous and consistent set of words, the original question becomes valid:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Boars go inside the cave?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="4940" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T17:41:50.930" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T17:41:50.930" Title="Can boars go inside the cave in Caverna?" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-02-28T22:38:15.250" Score="3" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;In backgammon, people always speak about 'equity', but never about 'winning probability'. To me, 'winning probability' seems much more simple and much more intuitive than 'equity'. So why is 'equity' much more commonly used than 'winning probability'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And is there a mathematical formula that links 'equity' and 'winning probability'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10385" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T01:27:41.377" Title="Why is 'equity' much more commonly used than 'winning probability'? What is the mathematical formula that links 'equity&quot; and 'winning probability'?" Tags="|statistics|probability|backgammon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23237" CreationDate="2015-02-28T23:22:50.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can &quot;translate&quot; the word &quot;equity&quot; as a value of the particular position.&#xA;Lets imagine we are one roll away from ending the match and we only have two checkers on deuce point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will win with the probabilty of 26/36 and we will lose with the probability of 10/36.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets also imagine that there is a friend who offers us some money and asks us to abandon the game for that price. Now what would the fare price be? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That &quot;fare price&quot; is what equity in fact is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equity = probability of winning - probability of losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that Equity can be a negative number too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to return to our previous example, if our game stake was $100, how much would have an honest buyer offer us? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[(26/36)-(10/36)]*$100 = $44.44&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and to complete the example, our opponent in the same match, should &quot;sell&quot; his position, or bail himself out, paying $44.44&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11958" LastEditorUserId="11958" LastEditDate="2015-03-01T05:36:37.517" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T05:36:37.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13782" CreationDate="2015-02-28T23:46:46.463" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whoa! You guys, you cannot take out a loan if you're in debt. That rule is there to mimic real life, where taking out a loan with bad credit is impossible. No the debt doesn't stack, but as long as you're in debt, you can't get the bank loan, because you can't gain the debt card, because you can't have more than one debt. From the reference guide under Bank Loans: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an investigator already has a Debt Condition, he cannot acquire a bank loan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boom. Done. Pay me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11982" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T19:26:31.047" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T19:26:31.047" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23236" CreationDate="2015-03-01T01:36:30.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you explain the ambiguity you see?  I'm not seeing any.  Boars are allowed within any room that states that it can hold animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example on page 10 clearly shows boars within the Entry Level Dwelling.  I don't see anywhere that suggest a different interpretation is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-03-01T01:36:30.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23248" CreationDate="2015-03-01T02:31:52.173" Score="1" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any official/de facto interpretation for this topic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After setup, each time the Germans research a tech that upgrades or unlocks a unit, they build one of that unit for free and gain one resource of their choice from the market.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that this description is ambiguous and I think it can be interpreted as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They get three units and three resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They get three units and one resource.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They get one unit and one resource.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11649" LastEditorUserId="7912" LastEditDate="2015-03-01T05:52:18.450" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T08:57:47.440" Title="How many units and resources will the Germans get when they research logistics?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23237" CreationDate="2015-03-01T17:16:33.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Equity is especially useful because it pre-calculates some of the analysis used in utilizing the Doubling Cube. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the situation described by @Skytten: We have two chequers on the 2-point to roll; opponent has two chequers on the 1- and 2-points (a guaranteed win if he/she gets to roll). Our &lt;em&gt;equity&lt;/em&gt; is $44.44. If we offer a double to opponent our equity becomes either $100.00 (if opponent declines) or $88.88 (if opponent accepts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unintuitively, opponent should accept the offered double because his/her choices  are to have an equity of -$100.00 (declining) or of -$88.88 (accepting); the latter is a lesser evil. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2017-06-03T01:27:41.377" LastActivityDate="2017-06-03T01:27:41.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23272" CreationDate="2015-03-01T18:36:50.993" Score="8" ViewCount="9047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently had a deck of custom cards printed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeplayingcards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MakePlayingCards&lt;/a&gt;. They accept bmp,png,tiff and jpg images at a minimum resolution of 300 DPI. I have a bunch of SVG vector images that I can convert to whatever DPI I need, but I thought 4 times the minimum would be more than enough, and used 1200 DPI png images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They came out looking fairly well, but grainy in the detailed portions. I know the resolution needs to be higher, but I don't know by how much. I would like to print at the best possible DPI without making the images overly large for no good reason. The MakePlayingCards site does not mention what the maximum resolution their printers can print is, nor can I find that sort of information on other card printing sites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't even know a good ballpark for this number, so the maximum DPI of any reputable playing cards is an acceptable answer. eg. The DPI at which Bicycle cards are printed is x.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11986" LastActivityDate="2024-02-21T03:59:26.110" Title="What is the typical DPI at which playing cards are printed?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23237" CreationDate="2015-03-01T22:22:51.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that equity is used instead of winning probability is because it is possible to win a single game, a double game (gammon) or triple game (backgammon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that the value of the game, or bet, is $1. (That would occur if the cube is in the middle. If it has been turned, you multiply by 2, 4, or whatever the number is on the cube.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's further say that White is Playing red, they are both &quot;bearing off,&quot; but White is ahead. White has a 55% chance of winning, and Red has a 45% chance of winning. Then White's equity in that $1 bet is .55*$1 or 55 cents, while Red's equity is .45*$1 or 45 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume a second situation. White has a good &quot;back game&quot; against Red, who has started bearing off. White's chances of winning are still 55%, and Red's is 45%, but Red will probably score a gammon if White doesn't hit him before Red starts bearing off (that is 45%). For now, let's ignore the possibilities that Red will score a backgammon (a triple game) and that Red will win a single game, and assume that he gets a double game, if he doesn't get hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White's equity is .55*$1, or 55 cents. But because Red can win a double game, his equity is .45*$2, or 90 cents because of the gammon possibility. In this example, Red has more equity, even thought White has the higher win probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a mathematica formula, let's say your chances of winning a single, double, and triple game are a, b and c, respectively. Your win probability is just a+b+c. But your equity is a*$1+b*$2+c*$3. The gammon and backgammon possibilities double and triple the value of your probabilities, b and c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address a comment below, in the examples above, I quoted &quot;gross&quot; equity. It is normally calculated as &quot;net&quot; equity. So if White's equity from winning a simple game were 55 cents, and Red's chances of winning a simple game were 45 cents, White's &quot;net&quot; equity would be 55 cents-50 cents (his share of the $1 bet), or 5 cents, and Red's &quot;net&quot; equity would be 45 cents- 50 cents or &lt;em&gt;negative&lt;/em&gt; 5 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T13:47:35.953" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T13:47:35.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6448" CreationDate="2015-03-02T00:45:06.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wonder if it wouldn't make sense to demand collateral loans while the future trade wouldn't take place. In this case the risk would remain for the contact proposer as if the future trade wouldn't take place the collateral could be used by the player who would not have received the future traded value as promised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11988" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T00:45:06.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23243" CreationDate="2015-03-02T08:57:47.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not (at least yet) an &lt;em&gt;official&lt;/em&gt;, explicit statement for this. For the time before a new FAQ version is released, I would suggest to stick into the &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/98422/civilization-summary-official-and-unofficial-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official and Unofficial rules and clarifications&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; made by &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/user/Itchi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Itchi (BGG)&lt;/a&gt;. He was one of the playtesters of the Wisdom &amp;amp; Warfare expansion, and this UFAQ is used in our playgroup if no help is offered by the official rules or the FAQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;87&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Germans get 3 resources and 3 units by researching or learning Logistics&lt;/strong&gt; if they havent already unlocked these levels of units. For&#xA;example, if they already had Democracy and research Logistics, they&#xA;will gain 2 resources and 2 free units (Mounted and Artillery). For&#xA;example, if they already have Railroad and Mathematics and learn&#xA;Logistics, they will gain 2 resources and 2 free units (Infantry and&#xA;Mounted).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, that this is true also even if you have level 3 or level 4 units unlocked. From the official &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/news/Civilization%20FAQ_v2.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ v.2.0&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: If the Germans research a tech which unlocks a level 3 or 4 unit&#xA;and later researches a tech which unlocks the level 2 unit of the same&#xA;type, do they still get the free unit and resource?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T08:57:47.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T16:22:01.780" Score="0" ViewCount="2394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know only legendary creatures can be commanders unless stated otherwise (for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daretti%2C%20Scrap%20Savant&quot;&gt;Daretti, Scrap Savant&lt;/a&gt;).  Have the creators of EDH ever explained why Planeswalkers cannot be commanders by default (except with rules exceptions like the one on Daretti's card)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know because my favorite card is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sorin%2C%20Solemn%20Visitor&quot;&gt;Sorin, Solemn Visitor&lt;/a&gt; and I would've loved to make a deck around him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user11993" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T06:50:30.767" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T14:15:35.427" Title="Why didn't whomever created EDH allow Planeswalkers to be Commanders?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T19:12:15.023" Score="4" ViewCount="12312" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played the Voodoo scenario the other night and I as the traitor got killed in an attack. At the end of each traitor turn, the chance of survivors dying gets more and more likely. So I hoped that even though I was dead, the survivors might still succumb to the dolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that the traitor doesn't lose just because their explorer dies, and that the game can continue if the monsters could fulfil the traitor's task to win. I had no monsters (they don't really factor into this scenario), but I feel like the damage track and the voodoo doll effects were in a sense the equivalent of monsters in this case, and so would continue to be resolved at the end of each traitor/monster turn - giving me a chance to still win - the survivors are still in a race against time to find their dolls before the dolls kill them. Otherwise they've effectively won, it's just the laborious task of finding and destroying the dolls with little/no resistance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the voodoo doll effects continue to be resolved at the end of the traitor/monster turn, even if the traitor explorer is dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11996" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:20:30.503" Title="Betrayal at House on the Hill - &quot;Voodoo&quot; (Haunt 25) - Do you continue if the traitor dies?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23250" CreationDate="2015-03-02T19:54:36.517" Score="-4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the game can continue if the &lt;strong&gt;monsters&lt;/strong&gt; could fulfil the traitor's task&#xA;  to win&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I had &lt;strong&gt;no monsters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you've answered your question there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11997" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T19:54:36.517" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23250" CreationDate="2015-03-02T20:21:32.080" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the Voodoo Haunt, you should continue to play, and the dolls will continue to deal damage (or otherwise harm the Heroes) until they are destroyed. Thematically, this still makes sense: the Traitor wants everyone dead, and might still succeed posthumously - the magic linking the voodoo dolls to the Heroes doesn't seem to require any maintenance, and all of the dolls are in dangerous places. Regarding your rules quote, where the monsters can still fulfill the Traitor's goal, the voodoo dolls are effectively your monsters: conditions that can cause the Heroes to die, leaving the Traitor as the victor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also consider that there's &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; Traitor, and at least two Heroes. If killing the Traitor means the Heroes win, then the Voodoo Haunt is very easy: even with the Heroes suffering from the Voodoo dolls, it's much easier for two explorers to kill a lone explorer. And this just gets more ridiculous if you have six players, five of whom are Heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T20:21:32.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23250" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:05:48.670" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for winning and losing are defined by the specific scenarios, not the general game rules. The (heroes) rules for haunt #25 state what is required for the heroes to win:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You Win When ...&#xA;  ... you destroy all of the dolls and at least half&#xA;  (rounding up) of the original heroes are still&#xA;  alive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main rulebook does NOT say that you must have a monster in order to continue with the traitor dead. What it says is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first side (traitor or heroes) that completes its goals&#xA;  for the haunt wins the game.&#xA;  At least one hero must survive in order for the heroes to win.&#xA;  However, some haunts include goals that are written so that&#xA;  the traitor can still win the game after he or she dies. &lt;strong&gt;For&#xA;  instance&lt;/strong&gt;, the monsters that player controls may be able to&#xA;  win the game without the traitor’s help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine). The idea of having monsters to help you win is just one example of how the traitor can win after he dies. It is clear that in order for the heroes to win, they need to meet the requirements in their rules. Killing the traitor has no effect on this (unless their rules state that specifically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T21:20:30.503" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:20:30.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23254" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:09:01.250" Score="5" ViewCount="9411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heartless%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Heartless Summoning&lt;/a&gt; make Tribal Changeling Instants cheaper to cast? &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crib%20Swap&quot;&gt;Crib Swap&lt;/a&gt;'s type line says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tribal Instant - Shapeshifter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the reminder text it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Changeling &lt;em&gt;(This card is every creature type at all times.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is Crib swap a creature or not, and if not, does Heartless Summoning affect it in any way because of the Changeling clause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11998" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T23:17:26.237" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T22:18:31.083" Title="Are tribal spells with changeling considered creature spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23254" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:11:47.760" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell is not a creature spell, so it is not affected by Heartless Summoning. The Changeling ability says that the card has &quot;all creature types&quot;, but &quot;creature type&quot; is just the name for the subtypes that Creature and Tribal share. So, Changeling doesn't make the card a creature, it just makes the card have all of the creature subtypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Type_line&quot;&gt;205.3m&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures and tribals share their lists of subtypes; these subtypes are called &lt;em&gt;creature types&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T21:44:35.113" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:44:35.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23254" CreationDate="2015-03-02T21:39:04.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heartless%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Heartless Summoning&lt;/a&gt; has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature spells you cast cost 2 less to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creature spell means a spell on the stack with the type Creature.&#xA;However &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crib%20Swap&quot;&gt;Crib Swap&lt;/a&gt; has types Tribal and Instant, neither of which is Creature.&#xA;Thus &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crib%20Swap&quot;&gt;Crib Swap&lt;/a&gt; is not affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heartless%20Summoning&quot;&gt;Heartless Summoning&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets contrast this with a card that cares about sub-types (of which both Tribal and Creature share creature types). &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ballyrush%20Banneret&quot;&gt;Ballyrush Banneret&lt;/a&gt; would cause &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crib%20Swap&quot;&gt;Crib Swap&lt;/a&gt; to cost 1 less as it is a Kithkin spell, a spell with the sub-type Kithkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-03-02T21:44:15.850" LastActivityDate="2015-03-02T21:44:15.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T03:44:18.010" Score="1" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;The abilities for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soulflayer&quot;&gt;Soulflayer&lt;/a&gt; are...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delve (Each card you exile from your graveyard while casting this spell pays for 1.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature card with flying was exiled with Soulflayer's delve ability, Soulflayer has flying. The same is true for first strike, double strike, deathtouch, haste, hexproof, indestructible, lifelink, reach, trample, and vigilance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but if you play the card and exile a creature with Flying using Delve, then Soulflayer is put into your graveyard, then you return Soulflayer to the battlefield will Soulflayer still have flying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11999" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T14:18:02.520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T14:18:02.520" Title="If Soulflayer is returned to play from your graveyard, does it retain abilities it was granted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23257" CreationDate="2015-03-03T03:46:34.333" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it is in the graveyard, Soulflayer has none of those abilities, and it will not have them if it returns to the battlefield. When it is put into the graveyard, it becomes a card with no memory of its existence on the battlefield, and when it returns to the battlefield, it is a completely new creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Zones)&quot;&gt;Rule 400.7&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object &lt;strong&gt;with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence&lt;/strong&gt;. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast Soulflayer, you can exile cards from the graveyard to pay for its cost, and it keeps track of those exiled cards. While it is on the battlefield, it remembers those cards, and gives itself abilities based on what abilities those cards had. This falls under the third exception to that rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7c&lt;/strong&gt; If an ability of a permanent requires information about choices made as that permanent was cast as a spell, including what mana was spent to cast that spell, it uses information about the spell that became that permanent as it resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the Soulflayer leaves the battlefield, it forgets about its previous existence, including the cards exiled when it was cast. If it returns to the battlefield, it no longer has any associated exiled cards, so it doesn't give itself any abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T03:54:02.747" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T03:54:02.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23257" CreationDate="2015-03-03T03:47:49.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, every time that a creature enters the battlefield (Whether from your hand, your graveyard, from a bounce spell like cloudshift, etc.) it is a new instance of that creature. Since you can only pay a delve cost when casting from your hand there would be no way for it to come back with the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12000" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T03:47:49.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23236" CreationDate="2015-03-03T12:40:47.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state explicitly that Wild Boars are Farm animals on page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each animal is worth 1 Gold point. There are Dogs, and the Farm animals Sheep, Donkeys, Wild boars, and Cattle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, Dogs are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; included in the set of Farm animals. There is no inconsistency. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild Boars are indeed differentiated several times from other Farm animals within the rules, but this is just because they have special rules that apply to them as opposed to Sheep, Donkeys, and Cattle. They are still Farm animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastEditorUserId="7480" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T12:46:05.157" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T12:46:05.157" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23254" CreationDate="2015-03-03T17:35:32.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Goblin&quot;, &quot;Elf&quot; and &quot;Druid&quot; are creature types (aka creature subtypes). Changeling grants all creature types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crib Swap is a Shapeshifter (a creature type).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crib Swap is a Goblin (a creature type).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crib Swap is a Druid (a creature type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Creature&quot; is a card type, not a creature type. Changeling doesn't grant any card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crib Swap is a Tribal (a card type).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Crib Swap is an Instant (a card type).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Crib Swap is not a Creature (a card type)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crib Swap can have creature types without being a creature because creatures and tribals share their lists of subtypes&lt;sup&gt;[CR 205.3m]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T22:18:31.083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T22:18:31.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23263" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23274" CreationDate="2015-03-03T19:03:58.407" Score="6" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the blurb on the box,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.storycubes.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rory's Story Cubes&lt;sup&gt;&amp;reg;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/a&gt; is a pocket-sized visual story generator that sparks the imagination of all ages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9XKfI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Story Cubes&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You throw 9 dice and then create a story that connects the images shown on the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I play with my kids, the game often devolves into &quot;connect the dots as fast as possible&quot;, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There once was a (first cube), who met a (next cube), and then he saw a (next cube), then he went to the (next cube), and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can I do to help us get away from this type of storytelling and become more creative with our stories? Are there any house rules I can add to discourage or prevent the &quot;and then, and then, and then&quot; storytelling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T15:21:38.693" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T15:21:38.693" Title="How to stimulate more creative storytelling?" Tags="|house-rules|rorys-story-cubes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-03T19:06:26.400" Score="1" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;What exactly is meant by &quot;gain&quot; a card. For example, if I am asked to draw a card from my deck- have I gained the card? Or does gain only apply to cards from the lineup I gain for no cost (Cheetah,  Dark Knight )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12004" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T20:31:19.353" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T16:15:53.783" Title="What does &quot;gain&quot; mean?" Tags="|dc-comics-deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23264" CreationDate="2015-03-03T20:31:07.317" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To gain a card is to take it from the lineup and move it to your discard pile. From page 9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://szellemlovas.hu/tarsasjatekok/szabalyok/dc_comics.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gaining Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;When a card tells a player to gain a particular card&#xA;    or a card of your choice, that card is taken and&#xA;    immediately placed in that player’s discard pile at no&#xA;    additional cost, unless otherwise directed by the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T20:31:07.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23267" CreationDate="2015-03-03T20:57:11.970" Score="4" ViewCount="5619" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in a game involving Haunt 23, Tentacled Horror. (Spoilers will be kept to a minimum.) There are multiple different types of monsters in that Haunt: some of them have a Sanity trait, and others don't. One of the Heroes had the Ring, which let him attack with Sanity instead of Might. He attacked a monster that had a Might trait, but no Sanity trait, using the Ring. At the time, I told him that the monster had no Sanity trait and that he'd need to try a different type of attack, and he ended up doing a Might attack using the Sacrificial Dagger instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this the right thing to do, or should the initial attack have failed entirely? Or should we have explained which traits the monster does and doesn't have the instant the monster went on the map? The rules just say &quot;you can't use a trait to attack against a monster that doesn't have that trait,&quot; but it's unclear on how to handle the attempt. This is particularly vexing, because all monsters have hidden traits and this is going to come up again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I looked at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/downloads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;updated Secrets of Survival and Traitor's Tome&lt;/a&gt;, and it turns out that the specific Haunt I was looking at no longer has that problem, but I'm sure this question will still apply to other monsters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2015-03-03T21:21:25.177" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:25:49.480" Title="If a Hero makes a Speed/Sanity/other non-Might attack, when does the Traitor reveal that the target lacks that trait and can't be attacked that way?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23266" CreationDate="2015-03-03T21:25:49.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the ring only allows you to attack a monster that has a sanity trait in the first place, he shouldn't have ever been allowed to attempt the attack. So if by &quot;attacked&quot; you mean &quot;rolled the dice for the attack&quot;, then he should have already been corrected sooner. If by &quot;attacked&quot; you mean &quot;declared that he was using the ring to attack&quot;, then I believe you did the right thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's a specific thing that addresses this in the rulebook, but if the legality of an action (such as using the ring to attack) depends on certain factors (such as whether the monster has sanity or not), then the heroes should be allowed to ask if the monster has a sanity trait, and the traitor should answer. (NOT what the sanity value is, just whether or not it exists). This is the only way that the heroes can make a legal decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-03-03T21:25:49.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23269" CreationDate="2015-03-04T12:17:33.793" Score="8" ViewCount="5360" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to this famous card game. I searched it on steam and found multiple version e.g. 2012, 2015, etc&#xA;I'm planing on purchasing this online version of the game to see it but I got curious. Does the game has a new version as an entire new game every year? If so do I have to purchase the 2016 version next year to stay up to date?&#xA;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12006" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:37:57.140" Title="Why are there multiple version of Magic The Gathering Game on Steam?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23268" CreationDate="2015-03-04T12:42:11.470" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You appear to be talking about Duel of the Planeswalkers, a game &lt;em&gt;based on&lt;/em&gt; M:TG where you start with a number of decks and you unlock cards to add to those as you progress in the game. There were different versions for the past few years. Each version had new decks and features. You can compare it to several sport games (NBA 2k15, WWE 2k15), they all get newer and sometimes better versions each year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, however, keep using the older versions. But newer versions contain newer (and sometimes more) cards, new enemies, new battle types etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also Magic: Online, a true digital equivalent of Magic: The Gathering. This is a version which stays up to date with newer cards, but can be more expensive than the DotP versions you can buy (eg) in Steam. In MTGO, you create your own collection and play against other players, not against AI opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5859" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-04T15:46:10.400" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T15:46:10.400" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23249" CreationDate="2015-03-04T14:15:35.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is because they didn't exist yet.  The origins of the Commander (or Elder Dragon Highlander) rule set date back to 1996, as discussed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://%20mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=3734&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;.  They've been modified many times by various people since then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the real question is, why didn't the official Commander rules get modified to include Planeswalkers when they were introduced?  The most likely answer seems to be that many Planeswalkers would not be well balanced for Commander.  Searching the internet will reveal a whole lot of complaining when WoTC started allowing any Planeswalkers to be used in Commander, and Mark Rosewater discusses in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/commander-chief-2014-10-27&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; about introducing them that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ethan knew there were two major hurdles the team had to overcome. One,&#xA;  they had to prove that they could make designs that would work.&#xA;  Planeswalkers are not always a perfect fit for the Commander format,&#xA;  so the design was going to be tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems that rather than allow them, but then go through banning a bunch that didn't work, they were just disallowed completely, and exceptions like the recent ones are just written on the card itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T14:15:35.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23271" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-04T15:53:29.050" Score="1" ViewCount="328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I once invented a simple 2-player game called 'Pathways'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a n x n grid. (Generally n&gt;=8) Players alternate turns placing one marker per turn, on any empty slot of the board. The person who starts places an X and the other player uses O.  Two markers are considered to &lt;em&gt;be in the same path&lt;/em&gt; only if they are horizontally/vertically adjacent to each other (not diagonally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A person wins if he has created a continuous path of his markers that connects the top edge of the board to the bottom edge, or the left edge of the board to the right edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I would like to know whether there are any simple tricks a human can follow to become a good player (no computer algorithms or perfect strategies, please).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I start with the slot 2 units diagonally away from the corner the opponent takes (my friends generally do). I play very offensively, and defend only when necessary to prevent a trap. So far, this has worked, but I've not played against any &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; good players, so I don't know. I've also noticed that it is possible for a person to guarantee his win long before he actually wins (like a series of checks in chess).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T20:08:35.210" Title="Best opening moves and tricks for invented 2-player board game: Pathways" Tags="|board-size|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-03-13T19:01:12.883" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23245" CreationDate="2015-03-04T16:06:10.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a quick Google search it would appear the standard industry DPI is 300. Another web printing service discusses is here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://news.thegamecrafter.com/post/14003998104/a-note-about-dpi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Note About DPI&lt;/a&gt;. They only print at 300 DPI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As is mentioned in a comment Graphic Design may be more informative: &lt;a href=&quot;https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/95/what-dpi-should-be-used-for-what-situation&quot;&gt;https://graphicdesign.stackexchange.com/questions/95/what-dpi-should-be-used-for-what-situation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; cards came out incorrectly there could be any number of issues including incorrect exporting or due to compression their end*. You should always check their FAQ in future:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To customize your poker cards, create images that are 300DPI and CMYK color mode. Allow bleeding area as specified in our product page. To ensure the highest quality of printing, please use high resolution images.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience with any kind of printing it is hard to get things perfect first time. There are a lot of tools out there (e.g. Publisher can be switched to CYMK mode) but just checking again and again and following the manufacturer guidelines seems to be the best way to improve your results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I wouldn't be surprised if they converted SVG to another format incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:46:19.430" LastActivityDate="2015-03-04T16:06:10.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23263" CreationDate="2015-03-04T20:16:19.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a number of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.storycubes.com/play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ways to play&lt;/a&gt;&quot; on the Story Cubes website. Some just involve getting more or other dice and are little more then showcases or advertisements for different sets, but others are actually house rules, or alternate rules. I will be trying those out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;#4 Superheroes&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each person roles 3 cubes and uses these to create a superhero (superpowers and a name). Then all 9 cubes are rolled by each to create a back story for their superhero. Finally, all 9 cubes are rolled again to create an arch-nemesis, as a group.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now we're set to play. Cubes are rolled as usual to create exciting adventures pitting the heroes against their enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;#1 Roll &amp;amp; Play&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while roll &amp;amp; play is the standard way of playing, it showed the icons on the dice do not need to be interpreted as literally as we were doing. No additional rules, but another way of using the existing rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;I initially thought they were all just advertisements for different sets of cubes, but some of them offer the kind of additions to the rules I was looking for.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&amp;nbsp;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Of course, other ideas are still welcome.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T21:21:50.967" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T21:21:50.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23280" CreationDate="2015-03-04T23:29:03.553" Score="-2" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Caverna, there is a furnishing called the Working Cave with the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Every time&lt;/strong&gt; you have to feed your Dwarfs at the end of a round&#xA;  (&lt;em&gt;including the special Feeding phases&lt;/em&gt;), you may feed &lt;strong&gt;exactly one&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  of them with 1 Wood or 1 Stone or 2 Ore (&lt;em&gt;instead of Food&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have 1 Wood, 1 Stone, 2 Dwarfs, and this furnishing, can I feed my Dwarfs with the Wood and Stone, or must I use food for one Dwarf and either the Wood or Stone for the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11553" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T17:23:28.973" Title="Can Working Cave feed multiple Dwarves" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28831" CreationDate="2015-03-05T05:32:53.227" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Thunderbolt Apache Leader, the &lt;em&gt;Artillery Unit&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;1S&lt;/strong&gt;) notes say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lose 2 SO Points at the end of the Day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the 2 SO points come from Daily SO Points that are awarded at the end of day? Or must I deduct the 2 SO points immediately upon entering &lt;em&gt;End of Day&lt;/em&gt; and before receiving the Daily SO Points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, if I have 0 SO points when entering the &lt;em&gt;End of Day&lt;/em&gt; phase, is that an immediate loss due to &lt;strong&gt;1S&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11466" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T05:04:01.170" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T05:04:01.170" Title="When do I lose 2 SO Points at the end of each day?" Tags="|mechanics|thunderbolt-apache-leader|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23279" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:38:22.873" Score="7" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anthony activates &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383015&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mishra's Workshop&lt;/a&gt; to add {3} to his mana pool. He casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bronze%20Sable&quot;&gt;Bronze Sable&lt;/a&gt;, leaving him with {1} in his mana pool. This mana comes with a restriction that it may only be used to cast artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, Anthony activates &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xenagos%2C%20the%20Reveler&quot;&gt;Xenagos, the Reveler&lt;/a&gt; to add {G}{G} to his mana pool. He casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elsewhere%20Flask&quot;&gt;Elsewhere Flask&lt;/a&gt;. This leaves him with one mana in his pool. Elsewhere Flash resolves, and Anthony draws a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We arrive at an ambiguous game state. Anthony failed to specify exactly which mana in his pool he was using to cast Elsewhere Flask. Does he have {1} in his pool with a restriction, or {G} in his pool with no restriction? Does the game back up to before it became ambiguous? Does Anthony get to choose? Are any penalties awarded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that this scenario occurred at Regular AND Competitive REL. Describe the outcome of both if they happen to be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T18:43:59.327" Title="Resolving an ambiguous game state caused by mixing restricted mana" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23277" CreationDate="2015-03-05T15:55:16.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Judge (or opponent): &quot;Anthony, what's in your mana pool right now?&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anthony: [takes a second] &quot;One green mana.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Judge (or opponent): &quot;Great!&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's only a problem here if Anthony misrepresented how much mana he has, or if a state occurs where he made an illegal play. Absolute clarity would be something that would be appreciated from Anthony, however if the game mandated absolute clarity in everything related to the game, a single game could take far too long for a tournament to be efficiently done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mana was misrepresented, assuming no intent, it's a miscommunication made between the two players, which is a Communication Policy Violation at competitive REL, and the miscommunication should be clarified. If an illegal play was made, such as an Elvish Mystic being cast off of the colorless (which was mistaken as G) is a Game Rule Violation at competitive REL, and would be handled based on the remedies perscribed in the IPG. (short version: the game would either be backed up if caught quickly, or left as-is)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10312" LastEditorUserId="10312" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T16:04:15.270" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T16:04:15.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23277" CreationDate="2015-03-05T16:11:03.107" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;We will start with the relevant rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana#Comprehensive_Rules&quot;&gt;106.4a&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; If a player passes priority (see rule 116) while there is mana in his or her mana pool, that player announces what mana is there. If any mana remains in a player’s mana pool after he or she spends mana to pay a cost, that player announces what mana is still there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony would get a Warning for Game Play Error - Game Rule Violation for failing to follow the above rule.  (I can't think of a card that having the {1} would be advantageous over the {G}, but board state is irrelevant for this kind of infraction.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fix for this type of violation is to attempt to fix the problem by performing the required action if possible, if that isn't back up the game if possible, and if that isn't possible leaving the game state alone. In this case if caught soon enough the problem can be fixed by Anthony deciding what kind of mana he has, otherwise just leave the game where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Anthony's opponent did not catch the error soon after it was committed they would receive a Warning for Game Play Error - Failure to Maintain Game State.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a Regular REL both of the Warning should be downgraded to Cautions, since the point at Regular REL is to educate and not punish for most infractions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T18:43:59.327" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T18:43:59.327" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23275" CreationDate="2015-03-05T17:23:28.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless there is something else in the rules that changes the way you're supposed to read that, it means you can only do this for one Dwarf, not multiple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says &quot;...feed your &lt;strong&gt;Dwarfs&lt;/strong&gt;...&quot; so it's clearly talking about the process of feeding all of them (more than one), but then says you can only use Wood or Stone for &lt;strong&gt;exactly one&lt;/strong&gt; of them. That's just an English language thing, not a game rules thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T17:23:28.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23281" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:36:21.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Little Balancing&lt;/em&gt; is a game for toddlers and their parents involving balancing frogs on waterlillies on stilts. It is published by Djeco.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:46.713" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:46.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23282" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:36:21.277" Score="0" Body="A game for toddlers and their parents involving balancing frogs on waterlilies on stilts." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:49.230" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:49.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23283" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:42:22.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Prosperity&lt;/em&gt; is a 2013 tile placement game where players compete to create the greatest country over several generations. The English language edition was published by Asmodee and Ystari Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/33610/prosperity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1975 game by Allan Pozitzer-Warren Townsend&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/20166/prosperity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1986 game by Casper&lt;/a&gt;, both of which have the same name, nor &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion-prosperity&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'dominion-prosperity'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion-prosperity&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:35.233" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:35.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23284" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:42:22.430" Score="0" Body="A 2013 tile placement game where players compete to create the greatest country over several generations." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:32:00.840" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:32:00.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23285" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:47:04.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Encore&lt;/em&gt; is a game where players are given a word and must come up with songs that have the word in its lyrics. It was first published by Parker Brothers in 1989. It has been published by Endless Games since 1997.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:31.073" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23286" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:47:04.120" Score="0" Body="A game where players are given a word and must come up with songs that have the word in its lyrics." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:40.900" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:40.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23287" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:51:39.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Metaplot is an overarching storyline describing in-universe events within the setting of a game. Metaplots are most often used to develop the setting of tabletop roleplaying games, but is sometimes used in board or card games, such as Alderac Entertainment Group's &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/legend-of-the-five-rings&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged 'legend-of-the-five-rings'&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;legend-of-the-five-rings&lt;/a&gt; collectible card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:53.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:53.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23288" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:51:39.740" Score="0" Body="An overarching storyline describing in-universe events within the setting of a game." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T21:31:58.720" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T21:31:58.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-05T18:59:08.097" Score="10" ViewCount="6111" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my creature successfully attacks with an encoded cipher card attached, does the copy also have cipher? Wouldn't I be able to encode the copy of the original spell onto a new creature, having 2 creatures encoded, 1 from the original cipher and 1 from the encoded copy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12017" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-05T19:05:54.087" LastActivityDate="2019-09-29T04:02:44.577" Title="When I cast an encoded cipher spell, can I encode the copy on another creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23289" CreationDate="2015-03-05T19:04:27.093" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first rule for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Cipher&quot;&gt;Cipher&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cipher appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two abilities. The first is a spell ability that functions while the spell with cipher is on the stack. The second is a static ability that functions while the card with cipher is in the exile zone. &quot;Cipher&quot; means &quot;&lt;strong&gt;If this spell is represented by a card&lt;/strong&gt;, you may exile this card encoded on a creature you control&quot; and &quot;For as long as this card is encoded on that creature, that creature has 'Whenever this creature deals combat damage to a player, &lt;strong&gt;you may copy the encoded card and you may cast the copy without paying its mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;.'&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you first cast the spell with Cipher from your hand, it is a card, so you can encode it on a creature. When that creature deals combat damage to a player, you can cast &lt;strong&gt;a copy of&lt;/strong&gt; the encoded spell. That copy is not represented by a card, so you can not encode it on a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-05T19:04:27.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23291" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-06T03:50:51.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;011&lt;/em&gt; is a game set in a steampunk alternate 19th century where players try to prevent Ragnarök. It was first published in 2011 by ElfinWerks, Heidelberger Spieleverlag, and Scribabs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T15:02:25.847" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T15:02:25.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23292" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-06T03:50:51.347" Score="0" Body="A game set in a steampunk alternate 19th century where players try to prevent Ragnarök." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T15:02:32.267" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T15:02:32.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23293" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23295" CreationDate="2015-03-06T15:44:35.720" Score="7" ViewCount="5610" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Dominion&quot;&gt;Eternal Dominion&lt;/a&gt; from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Eternal Dominion on the stack, you activate your max-level &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Echo%20Mage&quot;&gt;Echo Mage&lt;/a&gt; to make two copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the copies you just made Epic? (Meaning you'll get multiple Dominions next turn?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your next upkeep, you activate Echo Mage again, targeting a copy of Eternal Domininion created by the Epic trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are Echo Mage copies of an Epic-trigger-generated copy Epic or non-Epic?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T23:13:08.657" Title="What happens when you copy an Epic spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23293" CreationDate="2015-03-06T16:00:19.730" Score="13" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copies made of the original spell by Echo Mage have the epic keyword, and so you do get multiple dominions/turn after.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copies made by the epic trigger do not have the epic keyword.  So, the answer to your second question is that Echo Mage copies of those copies are &quot;non-Epic.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the salient rule that addresses why answer 2 is different from answer 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.49a Epic represents two spell abilities, one of which creates a delayed triggered ability. “Epic” means “For the rest of the game, you can’t cast spells,” and “At the beginning of each of your upkeeps for the rest of the game, copy this spell &lt;strong&gt;except for its epic ability&lt;/strong&gt;. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for the copy.” See rule 706.10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T23:13:08.657" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T23:13:08.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23297" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23298" CreationDate="2015-03-06T20:52:15.827" Score="4" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretend 10-10 is played and then I go out with J-J. Does the current round continue (players playing Q-Q or higher, etc), hence I would not claim the cards, or does it end (me still obviously being out) and the next player will lead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7497" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:09:17.330" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:09:17.330" Title="When you go out in Tichu, does the current round continue?" Tags="|tichu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2015-03-06T20:59:48.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The current round continues and someone else can win the trick, unless you're the third player to go out, in which a new round begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7497" LastActivityDate="2015-03-06T20:59:48.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23300" CreationDate="2015-03-07T04:15:49.937" Score="3" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game of Small World recently with a group of people who also were just playing the game for the first time, so we were unclear on some of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One sticking point in particular that we had was when play would pass to the next player.  The language in the rules isn't super clear, and we saw two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 picks a race (if applicable), conquers some areas (or goes into decline), then scores victory points.  Then, Player 2 does the same, and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 picks a race (if applicable).  Player 2 picks a race (if applicable).  Other players pick races.  Once everyone has a race, Player 1 conquers areas or goes into decline.  Then Player 2 conquers areas or goes into decline, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which interpretation is correct?  Does each player perform all 3 parts of the turn, and then play passes, or does each player perform a part of the turn, and only start the next part of the turn once everyone is done with that phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7519" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T04:23:52.150" Title="When does the next player start their action?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23299" CreationDate="2015-03-07T04:23:52.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;#1 is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find a place in the rulebook that makes this super-obvious/clear, but there's this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game then proceeds clockwise,&#xA;  from player to player. &lt;strong&gt;Once all players have had a turn, a new&#xA;  turn begins.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During his turn, each player must now either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Expand the reach of his race through new conquests&#xA;  OR&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put his race In Decline to select a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, all the parts of a turn that are described are what one player does on his own turn, before the game moves to the next player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T04:23:52.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6122" CreationDate="2015-03-07T04:58:10.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sacrifices are generally made by sacrificing material for a positional and dynamic advantage. In the optimal scenario, a sacrifice is used for a mating net, as shown by many checkmate puzzles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best ways to learn sacrifices would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn a gambit. Probably not Queen's Gambit, since in the majority of cases black will decline it. Most other gambits would be fine to learn from though. Be very wary of gambits that rely on the opponent not knowing how to play the gambit. This will not teach you much, as it relies on the opponent making major mistakes. Danish Gambit or King's Gambit are good for learning the concepts behind sacrificing for white. Black has less advantage when using Gambits, but you could look at a few that you like. Remember that each gambit has a different playstyle that goes along with it. The Latvian Gambit generally supports very aggressive play, while other opening's might consider this to be overextending.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn the concepts of sacrificing. You are giving away material to gain space and momentum. In most cases, you should avoid trading away pieces, as this gives the opponent breathing room and loses your momentum. By maintaining a threat (such as a Bishop pin on a Knight-Queen) you give yourself room to do other things, while limiting what they can do. If the game drags out, your material disadvantage will become more apparent. Losing 1 pawn to allow your pieces to have more freedom when is less concerning in the opening than in the endgame.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Understand the relative worth of pieces. A rook that remains in the corner is worth less than 5 and a knight in the middle of the board that controls a lot of the board is worth more than 3. Also note that this can change rapidly. Is that rook able to easily obtain an open file? Or can that knight be easily kicked from it's square. These are all things to consider when sacrificing pieces. Giving up a rook for their powerful knight might be a worthwhile sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Look at some games of the top grandmasters. The top games of grandmasters considered to be tactics-based such as Fischer or Kasparov are good to look at, even for interest's sake. Kasparov was known to be brilliant with his dynamic style because he was very good at the opening and middlegame. So have a look at some of their games and try to understand the reason for sacrifices they make. A number of Petrosian's top games involve him exchanging a rook for a bishop. Note that not all their games involve sacrifices.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Know that you shouldn't sacrifice all the time. Most of the time, the right choice will be to keep your material. At a lower level, it is harder to maintain a dynamic advantage, and at a higher level, they can often defend against your advantage. It is a really hard skill to develop.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifices generally have a bigger advantage in shorter time controls. The opponent has less time to react to your threats, and at the very least, gives you a short term advantage and a good chance for them to make a mistake. Giving up a bishop for the pawn on h2/h7 can give your opponent a lot of panic in a short game, but given time it is generally easy to defend. I personally try to avoid this, because it leads me to have bad habits in games with longer time controls, but it does work better in shorter games.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck with learning sacrifices. There are a lot of things to think about but overall, just do what you feel is good and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Fixed typo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11884" LastEditorUserId="11884" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T05:53:46.077" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T05:53:46.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23303" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23337" CreationDate="2015-03-07T15:20:21.070" Score="2" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if the Ghoul did not destroy a Unit during that Attack Phase, place 1&#xA;  Wound Marker on this card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the scenario that the Ghoul is destroyed as a result of having a wound placed on it in this manner, who gets the magic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T12:36:42.430" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:13:01.367" Title="Who gets magic if the Fallen Kingdom Ghoul destroys itself?" Tags="|summoner-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14728" CreationDate="2015-03-07T23:09:01.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called 'Horror House'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to have it 3 dimensional board game with moving party and divided in to four large rooms, something used to roll down the stairs as I recall ad knock you over if you happened to be on that section. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12032" LastActivityDate="2015-03-07T23:09:01.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23305" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T03:18:17.560" Score="8" ViewCount="4463" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have already placed 14 roads and have the Road Building Progress Card. Am I able to play it and place my single road, or must I be able to play 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the full description in the Almanac:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Road Building:&lt;/strong&gt; If you play this card, you may immediately place 2 free roads on the board (according to normal building rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like if I &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; place 2 free roads I &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; place only 1 road, but someone suggested that I must place 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12035" LastActivityDate="2022-07-21T17:22:27.423" Title="Can Road Building Progress Card be played with only 1 road remaining?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23305" CreationDate="2015-03-08T03:28:32.320" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. There are no rules providing conditions that must be met to play development cards other than playing only 1 per turn, and not playing them the turn you buy them. So you would play the card, and then just do what you can to follow the instructions. If the instructions are impossible to follow, then you just do what you can. The same would go for playing a Year of Plenty if there's only 0 or 1 resource cards left in the resource piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have a particular rule to quote for this, but it seems like the only logical way to handle it. The rules are clear about when you can and can't play development cards, and there's no mention of requirements of having enough roads left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T13:57:26.997" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T13:57:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23307" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-08T03:42:21.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quatro&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player strategy board game invented by Swiss mathematician Blaise Müller. It was first published in 1991.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/39123/quatro&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2006 game by the same name&lt;/a&gt;, published by Art Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarto_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quatro on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T09:17:31.617" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:17:31.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23308" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-08T03:42:21.517" Score="0" Body="A two-player strategy board game invented by Swiss mathematician Blaise Müller." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T09:17:22.577" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:17:22.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23311" CreationDate="2015-03-08T03:47:49.430" Score="5" ViewCount="5831" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dragons of Tarkir has a new Planeswalker - &lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/dtk/cards/narsettranscendent.html&quot;&gt;Narset Transcendent&lt;/a&gt; - that, among other things, let's you &quot;&lt;em&gt;look at the top card of your library; if it's a noncreature, nonland card, you may reveal it and put it into your hand&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does that interact with cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152546&quot;&gt;Maralen of the Mornsong&lt;/a&gt;, which says, among other things, &quot;&lt;em&gt;Players can't draw cards&lt;/em&gt;&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T04:38:19.913" Title="what constitutes a card draw?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:17:54.683" Score="0" ViewCount="2247" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nessian%20Game%20Warden&quot;&gt;Nessian Game Warden&lt;/a&gt;, and a friend of mine tried to counter the entire summoning using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essence scatter says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counter target creature spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Nessian Game Warden go to the graveyard since its summoning hasn't yet resolved or does essence scatter's effect only apply to the ability on the card and NGW is summoned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12037" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T04:20:40.683" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T04:29:44.133" Title="Essence Scatter and summoning creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23309" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:28:28.117" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It only counts as a draw if the effect or rule specifically says &quot;draw.&quot; Otherwise, it's just an action that &lt;strong&gt;resembles&lt;/strong&gt; drawing a card. Specifically, Maralen of the Mornsong will not prevent you from putting cards in your hand with Narset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is specified by rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Drawing_a_Card&quot;&gt;120.5&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect moves cards from a player's library to that player's hand without using the word &quot;draw,&quot; the player has not drawn those cards. This makes a difference for abilities that trigger on drawing cards and effects that replace card draws, as well as if the player's library is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T04:38:19.913" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T04:38:19.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23310" CreationDate="2015-03-08T04:29:44.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Nessian Game Warden is countered. It does not resolve, and its ability does not go on the stack or resolve. It goes immediately to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Creature spell&quot; in Essence Scatter's text refers to the creature card itself, and not the ability on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if you cast Nessian Game Warden and it isn't countered, gameplay proceeds like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Nessian Game Warden. The Nessian Game Warden card goes on the stack, and players have a chance to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nobody responds and Nessian Game Warden resolves. Nessian Game Warden enters the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nessian Game Warden's triggered ability triggers and goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nessian Game Warden's triggered ability resolves, and you do what it says.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation you describe, here's what happens instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Nessian Game Warden. The Nessian Game Warden card goes on the stack, and players have a chance to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent responds by casting Essence Scatter, and that goes on the stack on top of Nessian Game Warden.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Essence Scatter resolves, countering Nessian Game Warden. Nessian Game Warden goes to the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T04:29:44.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23315" CreationDate="2015-03-08T13:05:23.543" Score="5" ViewCount="1806" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enduring%20Ideal&quot;&gt;Enduring Ideal&lt;/a&gt; and search and play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dovescape&quot;&gt;Dovescape&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the next upkeep Enduring Ideal should be cast again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Enduring Ideal countered by Dovescape, or can I search for other enchantments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8551" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T13:24:38.717" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T14:28:35.170" Title="Will Enduring Ideal and Dovescape played together leave Enduring Ideal countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23313" CreationDate="2015-03-08T13:27:35.190" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Enduring Ideal is not cast, since you cannot cast spells, a copy of it (without Epic) is just put on the stack. Since it is not being cast Dovescape doesn't care about it and it is not countered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T13:27:35.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23313" CreationDate="2015-03-08T13:27:41.887" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, a copy of Enduring ideal won't be countered by Dovescape because the copy isn't cast.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reminder text for Epic says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each of your upkeeps, copy this spell except for its epic ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, copies are not cast and thus are not affected by Dovescape:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.10. To copy a spell, activated ability, or triggered ability means to put a copy of it onto the stack; &lt;strong&gt;a copy of a spell isn’t cast&lt;/strong&gt; and a copy of an activated ability isn’t activated. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T14:28:35.170" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T14:28:35.170" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28427" CreationDate="2015-03-08T13:52:24.880" Score="6" ViewCount="1476" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Lv.1 Judge exam test 2 month later and I'm start to prepare now&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found I have to read and study Comprehensive Rules, IPG, MTR. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I will try some test question on Judge center too&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it's too much to read..should I read all those document carefully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What else should I check? Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8551" LastEditorUserId="8551" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T15:37:02.377" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T06:04:20.720" Title="Passing the Lv.1 Judge Exam" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T13:57:14.120" Score="6" ViewCount="9257" Body="&lt;p&gt;In checkers If I see my opponent can make a jump and they don't see the jump should I tell them?  What if I have a plan for after they make the jump and they don't take it. That spoils my plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12039" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T16:39:47.303" Title="Should I tell my opponent about a jump they don't see?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23319" CreationDate="2015-03-08T14:00:25.973" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on if you are playing with mandatory capture rules or not. If you are playing with mandatory capture and they make a move instead of capturing a piece then you should tell them because they would be required to make the capture instead of another move. If you are not playing with mandatory capture then it doesn't matter but you can still tell them if you chose to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T14:00:25.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23318" CreationDate="2015-03-08T15:18:51.863" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you should read them thoroughly because as a judge it is your duty and responsibility to understand all of those documents thoroughly so that you can issue rulings to players and be able to explain to them them why a ruling is being made. You would be doing a disservice to everyone involved if you issued bad rulings in a tournament do to a lack of understanding of the rules and documents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T15:18:51.863" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23322" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T15:47:04.573" Score="5" ViewCount="22594" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretty much as the title; I've looked at vassal 40k, but it hasn't been updated in a while and is missing units. I'm not necessarily looking for something for WH40k in specific - as long as it allows for moving units, measuring distances, and custom sprites/enough sprites to use &quot;counts as&quot; we should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12040" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T20:28:02.520" Title="Are there any tabletop apps to allow you to play warhammer 40k with friends in other cities?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23323" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-08T15:59:10.923" Score="0" ViewCount="1375" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what was the ideal match length, and I came across &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bkgm.com/rgb/rgb.cgi?view+712&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;those statistics&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Matchlength : Total Matches&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1 : 350&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2 : 59&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3 : 634&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4 : 12&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5 : 1184&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  6 : 1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  7 : 492&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  8 : 1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  9 : 42&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  11 : 31&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Total : 2806&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The match length is almost always odd. Why is that? What's wrong with an even match length?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, 9-point matches are 12 times less popular than 7-point matches (a difference way too big to be explained by the fact that 9-point matches take slightly more time than 7-point matches). So why are 9-point matches relatively rare?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10385" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T10:33:56.617" Title="In Backgammon, why is the match length almost always odd? And why are 9-point matches twelve times less popular than 7-point matches?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23326" CreationDate="2015-03-08T18:11:36.070" Score="3" ViewCount="5171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to MTG. I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Horizon%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Horizon Chimera&lt;/a&gt; which has &amp;quot;Whenever you draw a card, gain 1 life.&amp;quot; Does that mean you gain 1 life at the beginning of every round, when you draw a card? (That seems over-powered.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12044" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-08T22:51:58.617" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T23:14:36.133" Title="&quot;Whenever you draw a card&quot; - does that include the beginning of each turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23325" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23345" CreationDate="2015-03-08T18:37:31.397" Score="2" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to play Planechase sometimes. Mostly &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/eternities-map-2010-07-19-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this variant&lt;/a&gt;, which gives players some additional choices when planswalking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the most annoying part of Planechase is that the planar die has such a high &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160405084527/http://ryanmacklin.com/2012/08/the-whiff-factor/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whiff factor&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (incidence of null results). A particular thing I dislike is the handling time when a player has nothing else to do or desperately wants to planeswalk — rolling the die, tapping some mana, rolling the die again, &amp;amp;c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Criteria for a house rule that meets my needs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduced incidence of totally null results&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;reduced handling time (compared to multiple rerolls)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;whatever you change, the vast majority of the existing planes should still be playable as-is&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's okay to replace the planar die with some other game piece (including a custom die)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-06T16:00:26.590" LastActivityDate="2022-06-06T16:00:26.590" Title="How can I reduce the planar die &quot;whiff factor&quot; with house rules?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|house-rules|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23324" CreationDate="2015-03-08T19:00:11.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means exactly what it says: every time you draw a card, you gain 1 life. This includes the card you draw at the beginning of your draw step every turn and any card that a spell or ability tells you to draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T19:00:11.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23325" CreationDate="2015-03-08T20:23:10.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's one option: limit the number of chaos rolls and the number of planeswalk rolls to 1 per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you roll the planar die &lt;code&gt;n&lt;/code&gt; times, the probability of rolling at least one planeswalk symbol is &lt;code&gt;1-(5/6)^n&lt;/code&gt;, and of course the probability is the same for chaos. So, my suggestion is this: determine the number of rolls (and tap for that much mana), then calculate that probability and round to the nearest 1/20. Then we can map those probabilities onto a D20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say I have enough mana to pay for 5 rolls. Then the probability of success is &lt;code&gt;0.598&lt;/code&gt;, so we round to &lt;code&gt;0.60&lt;/code&gt;. Then we can say that the &quot;bottom&quot; 12 numbers (1-12) correspond  to planeswalk and the &quot;top&quot; 12 numbers (9-20) correspond to chaos. 9-12, of course, correspond to both. In those cases, flip a coin to determine which happens first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this severely inflates the probability that &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; happens. In the previous example, if I actually rolled the planar die 5 times, there would be about a &lt;code&gt;0.13&lt;/code&gt; chance of nothing happening. However, it also removes the possibility of either planeswalk or chaos happening more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here are the success rolls on a D20 corresponding to various numbers of planar die rolls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just use a planar die&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-6&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;15-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-8&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;13-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-10&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;11-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-12&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;9-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-13&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;8-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-14&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;7-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-15&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;6-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-16&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;5-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-17&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;4-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-17&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;4-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-18&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;3-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-18&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;3-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-18&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;3-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-19&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;2-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-19&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;2-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-19&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;2-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-19&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;2-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-19&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;2-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;planeswalk: &lt;code&gt;1-19&lt;/code&gt;. chaos: &lt;code&gt;2-20&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Above 20, the probability for each rounds to 100%, so just flip a coin to see which happens first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T16:23:46.383" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T16:23:46.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23324" CreationDate="2015-03-08T22:53:26.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;504&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;504.1. First, the active player &lt;strong&gt;draws a card&lt;/strong&gt;. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You perform the &amp;quot;draw a card&amp;quot; keyword action at the beginning of your turns, and that's the action on which Horizon Chimera's ability triggers, so it does indeed trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the ability triggers for every card drawn, even when instructed to draw multiple cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;120.2. Cards may only be drawn one at a time. If a player is instructed to draw multiple cards, that player performs that many individual card draws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This differs from &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ds/en/128.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whenever you lose life&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (which triggers once every time you lose life, no matter how much life you lose) and &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/dpa/en/18.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;whenever [something] deals damage&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; (which triggers once every time it deals damage, no matter how much damage it deals).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-08T23:14:36.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23330" CreationDate="2015-03-08T23:09:49.770" Score="5" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368985&quot;&gt;Blast of Genius&lt;/a&gt; and chose to discard &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368982&quot;&gt;Catch // Release&lt;/a&gt; Would the converted mana cost be the total cost of both halves or one? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11600" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T22:18:10.903" Title="What is the converted mana cost of fuse cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23329" CreationDate="2015-03-08T23:19:12.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Its converted mana cost is 9. Blast of Genius will deal 9 damage. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Split_cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 708.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.4.&lt;/strong&gt; In every zone except the stack, the characteristics of a split card are those of its two halves combined. This is a change from previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;708.4b&lt;/strong&gt; The mana cost of a split card is the combined mana costs of its two halves. A split card’s colors and converted mana cost are determined from its combined mana cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catch has a mana cost of {1}{U}{R} and Release has a mana cost of {4}{R}{W}, so the combined mana cost is {5}{W}{U}{R}{R} and the converted mana cost is 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-08-09T22:18:10.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23329" CreationDate="2015-03-08T23:23:06.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has two converted mana costs, 3 and 6. It will deal 3 damage and 6 damage simultaneously, which is the same as doing 9 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outside of the stack, Catch // Release has two CMCs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.2. In every zone except the stack, split cards have two sets of characteristics and two converted mana costs. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.5. Anything that asks for a particular characteristic of a split card while it’s in a zone other than the stack gets two answers (one for each of the split card’s two halves). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Catch // Release had CMCs 3 and 6 when it was discarded..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Blast of Genius doesn't compare CMC but gets its value, you perform the action using the CMC for each CMC the card has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.5's Example: Infernal Genesis has an ability that reads, “At the beginning of each player’s upkeep, that player puts the top card from his or her library into his or her graveyard. He or she then puts X 1/1 black Minion creature tokens onto the battlefield, where X is that card’s converted mana cost.” If the top card of your library is Assault/Battery, which has converted mana costs of 1 and 4, when this ability resolves, you simultaneously put one and four creature tokens onto the battlefield, for a total of five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling on Blast of Genius confirms this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you discard a split card, Blast of Genius will deal damage equal the sum of its two converted mana costs as a single damage-dealing event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T13:04:06.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23334" CreationDate="2015-03-09T00:51:14.977" Score="1" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wanted somebody to discard a card, it seems advantageous to lie and say it's something that is obviously not playable. Do you have to tell the truth about the card you are giving a clue about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T11:03:46.530" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T11:03:46.530" Title="Do you have to tell the truth?" Tags="|hanabi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23333" CreationDate="2015-03-09T00:56:22.543" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you must always tell the truth about cards in Hanabi. When you give information you give it about the card. If you give color you must give it for all cards of that color. If you give it about the number you must give it about all cards with that number. Given those two facts it is absolutely against the rules to lie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.villagehome.org/blog/attachment/index.php/4923/1/regle_en_hanabi.pdf&quot;&gt;https://www.villagehome.org/blog/attachment/index.php/4923/1/regle_en_hanabi.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T00:56:22.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23335" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-09T00:57:47.333" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T00:57:47.333" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T00:57:47.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23336" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-09T00:57:47.333" Score="0" Body="Named for the Japanese word for &quot;fireworks&quot; — is a cooperative game in which players try to create the perfect fireworks show by placing the cards on the table in the right order." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T09:17:28.080" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:17:28.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23303" CreationDate="2015-03-09T09:13:01.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The owner gets it, since it was their ability that destroyed the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:13:01.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2015-03-09T09:34:05.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could use roll20.net&#xA;Whilst geared towards RPG,  it does come with a tabletop with grids or hexes,  you can define the size of each grid,  u can place custom tokens and what not,  but you would need to do a lot of the prep work yourself in terms of uploading images for the units and preparing the map&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T09:34:05.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23323" CreationDate="2015-03-09T10:33:56.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Largely it's by convention, but the historic cause is the way optimal doubling cube strategy varies with the match length. In the most easy case, in a 2-point match it can barely be wrong to double as soon as you are ahead, and far too easy to leave doubling too late - which means the match becomes a single game the vast majority of the time. In which case you might as well play a 1-pointer. The other small even match lengths suffer similar oddities, but less pronounced as the length increases. Odd match lengths tend to have more &quot;normal&quot; doubling strategy in the early stages. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On at least one server I play on, 2-pointers are frowned on because they are perceived as a way of playing a 1-pointer for double the ratings value...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T10:33:56.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23340" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-09T15:37:51.643" Score="3" ViewCount="4029" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since an agreement could not be made.&#xA;And we take monopoly a bit to seriously in this house.&#xA;I need a perspective to end this debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I landed on boardwalk.  I had 167k in cash to pay for it, but I was 3k shy of having enough cash to complete the (170k) purchase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to mortgage another one of my properties, when the rules state &quot;you must be bankrupt to mortgage properties&quot;, to have enough money to pay for the new property? &#xA;This is very serious and I need an outside opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12052" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T16:58:28.830" LastActivityDate="2018-03-25T05:09:26.983" Title="Monopoly millionaire mortgaging of a property to pay for another property" Tags="|monopoly-millionaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23343" CreationDate="2015-03-09T16:17:08.940" Score="5" ViewCount="2250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm kind of new to Magic.  Today I opened a Fate Reforge booster pack that instead of containing a basic landed contained a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windswept%20Heath&quot;&gt;Windswept Heath&lt;/a&gt;.  That is a fetch land from Khans.  Is it normal for the Fate Reforge boosters to contain Khans cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12053" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T16:21:43.240" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T16:22:13.173" Title="Fate Reforged Booster Pack contains a Khans of Tarkir Fetch Land" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23305" CreationDate="2015-03-09T16:21:53.513" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; immediately place 2 free roads&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;may&quot; says you don't have to play 2, or even 1 road, it only says that it takes effect immediately, so you can't decide when to play them.  Technically I don't think you can stop and build a city in the middle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T16:21:53.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23341" CreationDate="2015-03-09T16:22:13.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Fate Reforged packs may contain KTK Fetchlands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More information at: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/fetching-look-fate-reforged-2014-12-24&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/fetching-look-fate-reforged-2014-12-24&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11675" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T16:22:13.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23325" CreationDate="2015-03-09T16:56:06.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is inspired by the action-choosing mechanism from &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1036/speculation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Speculation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start of game setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get six objects that can represent planeswalk/chaos/nothing: colored marbles, Scrabble tiles, popsicle sticks with symbols drawn on them, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the objects in an opaque bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the player wants to &quot;roll&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player pays the cost for rolling and chooses an item from the bag without looking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a Nothing item is removed, set it aside on the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a Planeswalk or Chaos item is removed, perform that action and return all the items to the bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reduces the likelihood of whiffing over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Normal 4/6 chance on the first roll.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3/5 chance after the first whiff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/4 chance after the second whiff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/3 chance after the third whiff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No chance of whiffing after four whiffs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to well satisfy criteria 1, 3, and 4. Admittedly, it's not much faster than regular rolling, if you discount the fact that on average you'll get a favorable result faster than if you had used a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2015-03-09T17:43:42.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T17:43:42.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23347" CreationDate="2015-03-09T18:06:02.227" Score="0" ViewCount="1564" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Akoum_Boulderfoot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Akoum Boulderfoot&lt;/a&gt;. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Akoum Boulderfoot enters the battlefield, it deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At what point does the player have to decide on the target? Specifically, is the following sequence of events correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player announces the casting of Akoum Boulderfoot and declares my 1/1 creature the target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Unsummon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; on my 1/1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Akoum Boulderfoot resolves, but its target is invalid, so the spell fizzles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is the following sequence correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player announces the casting of Akoum Boulderfoot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Unsummon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; on my 1/1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Akoum Boulderfoot resolves, enters the battlefield, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; the player chooses a valid target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="960" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:44:50.727" Title="Can I counter a creature by invalidating the target of its “comes into play” effect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23346" CreationDate="2015-03-09T18:25:05.033" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Easy answer is the second scenario you propose. Akoum Boulderfoot's ability is a triggered ability, with the trigger for the ability being 'Akoum Boulderfoot has entered the battlefield'. Targets for spells and abilities are chosen when the spell or ability is put onto the stack. Triggered abilities do not go on the stack until the trigger for the ability is true. Permanents are not actually on the battlefield until the spell resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer to your primary question though is no, you can't counter a creature by invalidating the target of its 'come into play effect', due to the come into play effect not going on the stack until the creature has fully resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7128" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T18:25:05.033" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23346" CreationDate="2015-03-09T18:28:47.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an enters the battlefield ability is countered by game rules, the source of that ability doesn't suddenly get countered as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target of an enters the battlefield ability is always chosen when the creature enters (your second scenario). In general, you cannot choose targets for an ability that hasn't triggered yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T18:28:47.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14133" CreationDate="2015-03-09T19:55:36.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent might have been thinking of the Phyrexian Unlife + Melira, Sylvok Outcast combo. If your opponent had Melira on the battlefield, then yes, you have a problem because he won't die at or below zero and he won't get poison counters. But even that combo is not insurmountable. You can still win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroying or exiling Phyrexian Unlife or, preferably, Melira when his life is at or below 0, does the job, as does milling him out or obtaining another win condition such as four Biovisionaries.  By the way, I've noticed that people who have this combo out tend to allow their life get to or below zero more easily, so if you do have a way to get rid of Melira then wait until your opponent has allowed himself to get at or below zero before you get take Melira out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12056" LastActivityDate="2015-03-09T19:55:36.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23346" CreationDate="2015-03-09T23:47:53.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just because you cause a creature's triggered ability to fail, that doesn't mean the creature &lt;em&gt;spell&lt;/em&gt; is countered. Once a creature is on the battlefield it is no longer a spell and can't be countered. Here's the sequence of events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent casts Akoum Boulderfoot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent passes priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bouderfoot resolves, enters battlefield. (Note: It can't be &lt;em&gt;countered&lt;/em&gt; now. But its triggered ability may still be thwarted.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Comes into play&quot; triggered ability is placed on stack. Opponent choses target of triggered ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent passes priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast unsummon on the 1/1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unsummon Resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggered ability of the Boulderfoot tries to resolve and fizzles when it checks for a valid target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more point of confusion: the first step of your first scenario is a common shortcut in casual games, although it isn't ideal play (because you're giving away information before you need to.) I see people announcing triggered ability targets as they cast quite often. If the opponent doesn't accept the shortcut and wishes to counter the creature spell before the trigger is added the stack, they can say so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2015-03-11T17:44:50.727" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T17:44:50.727" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23353" CreationDate="2015-03-10T01:07:31.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have a creature card that says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures you control have &quot;{T}: Add one mana of any color to your mana pool.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and I have two of these creatures out, do they stack so I can tap a creature to get two mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5601" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T01:12:14.610" Title="Do card abilities that grant mana stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-03-10T09:22:46.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23352" CreationDate="2015-03-10T01:12:14.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature has two copies of the ability to tap for mana. However each one is separately activated, and you have to pay by tapping the creature for either of them. So you get a choice: Use the first copy of the ability to tap for one mana, or use the second. You can't use both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you only can get one mana per creature in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T01:12:14.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23354" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T01:18:54.253" Score="3" ViewCount="8024" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a tile is placed but before a player indicates the turn is over by saying &quot;Done&quot;, may he move a tile from his rack to a different position on the table after he has initially placed it?  May he place a tile down and then decide to remove it or replace it before saying &quot;done&quot;?  Or once it is on the table in a certain position it must stay there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12059" LastActivityDate="2019-09-12T18:19:42.677" Title="Can a Rummikub tile be moved" Tags="|rummikub|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23354" CreationDate="2015-03-10T09:11:11.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;During your turn, you can pretty much do whatever you see fit with every tile on the table, including those you've only just placed. As long as the end result has no invalid sets. Except, apparently, joker tiles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummikub.org/how-to-play-the-melds/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rummikub.org&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the exception of the joker, any tile on the table may be repositioned provided that all tiles on the board eventually become part of a meld. The joker may be used in place of any tile when forming melds, but once a joker is on the table it cannot be moved to another meld. It must first be replaced by the tile for which it was used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cite this source, because it seems to be the most reliable one. But, truthfully, I wasn't aware of the joker exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T09:11:11.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:09:05.800" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;We picked up the d&amp;amp;d dice game Inn-Fighting by Wizards of the Coast yesterday and gave it a whirl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few questions came up that the rules and available FAQs don't seem to clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I have a wizard adventurer, who has a defense ability that has me roll all 6 dice and deal damage other characters. If Bob attacks me and I sucessfully use this ability and roll all 6 dice, what will get passed to the next player - whatever my ability's roll came up, or should I reset the dice back to what Bob rolled before his attack?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On a similar note, what if the defense die shows an ale or dice, and someone needs to roll it. Do they reset it back to what it showed before they rolled, or pass it as whatever it just came up as?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ended up ruling whatever any dice last rolled gets passed, but I'd love to have a clarification on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12062" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T13:12:44.920" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:12:44.920" Title="Rolling and passing dice in Inn-Fighting" Tags="|inn-fighting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23357" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:18:16.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/29198/inn-fighting&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Inn-Fighting&lt;/a&gt; is a dice game based in the Dungeons and Dragons world. This lighthearted game simulates a barroom brawl. Your goal is to create as much chaos as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-10T17:42:24.307" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T17:42:24.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23358" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:18:16.467" Score="0" Body="The dice game of champions in the Dungeons &amp; Dragons world." OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-14T01:44:51.497" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T01:44:51.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23354" CreationDate="2015-03-10T13:27:43.337" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many variations on the rummikub rules (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/rummikub.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;) which makes it difficult to give a quote to answer your question(s). So I'll answer based on the rules which were in the version I used to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All tiles on the table may be moved about by the person whose go it&#xA;is, with the exception of any set/run which has a joker in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The   player may add tiles from his hand to the table at any point during&#xA;his go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If, at the end of his go, the player cannot move all tiles&#xA;into valid sets/runs of at least 3, he must pick up any leftover&#xA;tiles plus a penalty of three tiles from the draw stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, after rearranging tiles on the table, yes a player is allowed to add tiles from his hand. He may add tiles from his hand, and then rearrange tiles (including the tile he placed) as much as he likes (as long as he doesn't break up a set/run with a joker in it). But he cannot place a tile from his hand and then pick it back up, unless he takes the 3 tile penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T13:27:43.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18092" CreationDate="2015-03-10T17:12:00.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with everything ConMan wrote. I played a game with 6p and one with 8p last weekend and they were two (out of about 20) of my favorite plays of this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 6p was the Pres/Bomb with 4 greys: Ahab/Moby and Wife/Mistress.  It felt like the end of Reservior Dogs. We got a good shuffle.  Everyone had one person they wanted to kick out of the room, and none of them lined up. It was very intense. We called it Hardcore 2R1B.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/grYvj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Image of a Standoff from Reservoir Dogs&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8p setup was similar, but we added a r/b acting role, the Clown.  The Clown is supposed to smile the whole game.  We paired that with a different 4-pack of greys: Rival/Intern and Survivor/Victim.  We were geared up for an equally intense game, but we get in the room and suddenly there's a smiling standoff. All four of us are smiling our biggest fake smiles.  We start color sharing and quickly learn that 3 of the 4 are grey, at most only one of us is a clown. The Clown is the last one to learn this and the smiling standoff has turned into three laughing fits and one confused clown. I fell over a chair and lay on the floor laughing my ass off for the majority of the round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That day I learned the difference between being forced to fake a smile and choosing to fake a smile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a third 4-pack of greys: Romeo/Juliet and Butler/Maid. I haven't played that setup yet, but i'm intrigued by the idea of a game where 5/6 of the players could win. Because of that, though, those cards might work better with a bigger group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T17:12:00.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23340" CreationDate="2015-03-10T22:22:44.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no, you are just out of luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Defining Bankruptcy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rules I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/dad288661c4311ddbd0b0800200c9a66/A084A5255056900B108D4B8ADDE8CB0D.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; don't explicitly define bankruptcy, but merely list the changes from standard Monopoly rules, I will refer to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;standard rules.&lt;/a&gt; It states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BANKRUPTCY ... You are declared bankrupt if you owe more than you can&#xA;  pay either to another player or to the Bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rules for Millionaire state about mortgage (and other things)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;IMPORTANT: You can ONLY do these things if you’re bankrupt, not under&#xA;  any other circumstances!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since buying property is optional (the standard rules say that you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; buy property when you land on it, it is not required), you don't qualify as being bankrupt.  Since you are not bankrupt, mortgaging is not an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-03-10T22:22:44.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T03:15:45.190" Score="7" ViewCount="14142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that one &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/23355/5573&quot;&gt;cannot move a Joker tile&lt;/a&gt; out of a meld except by replacing the Joker with the number it represents. However, I'm confused about one situation which I haven't found rules to clarify:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What happens if I move &lt;em&gt;every other number&lt;/em&gt; in the Joker's meld, leaving the Joker on its own?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I allowed to do this, or must I somehow preserve its meld?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens to the Joker's value? (Does it remain exactly what it was before, or can I pick a new value?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where can it go now? (Can I move it to another meld that's already on the table? Can I create a new meld around it using tiles from my hand?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example scenarios&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to make it clear how this can happen. Both scenarios only involve moving the tiles surrounding the Joker, never the Joker itself (or at least that's the way I see it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a run of blue &lt;strong&gt;1234&lt;/strong&gt;, and a run of blue &lt;strong&gt;J567&lt;/strong&gt;. I move the &lt;strong&gt;567&lt;/strong&gt; to the other run, making a run of &lt;strong&gt;1234567&lt;/strong&gt;. The Joker is now all on its own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There's a run of &lt;strong&gt;1234&lt;/strong&gt; in each colour, except blue which has &lt;strong&gt;123J&lt;/strong&gt;. I take the 1's, 2's and 3's away and make four-colour sets for each of those numbers. I make a three-colour set out of the red, yellow and black 4's. The Joker is now all on its own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the same scenarios, pictorially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board goes from &lt;strong&gt;1234 / J567&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;rarr; &lt;strong&gt;1234567 / J&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board goes from &lt;strong&gt;1234 / 1234 / 1234 / 123J&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;rarr; &lt;strong&gt;1111 / 2222 / 3333 / 444 / J&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-01-08T14:52:29.710" LastActivityDate="2022-01-08T14:52:29.710" Title="What can I do with the Joker if I remove every tile from its meld? (Can I even do that?)" Tags="|rummikub|joker|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23369" CreationDate="2015-03-11T03:26:05.983" Score="7" ViewCount="1089" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Citadels, if a player builds his 8th building we finish the round with the remaining roles and the game ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2-3 players rules, I may build the 8th district with my first character. When comes the second character's turn, can I build an additional district?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12066" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T14:00:55.970" Title="In 2-3 player Citadels, can your second character build a 9th district?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23363" CreationDate="2015-03-11T10:11:29.183" Score="3" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I move every other number in the Joker's meld, leaving the Joker on its own?&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can move and rearrange the Joker like every other tile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens to the Joker's value? (Does it remain exactly what it was before, or can I pick a new value?)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can use it for the value you want. Getting the Joker out of an existing row to use it elsewhere is a very common strategy. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where can it go now? &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everywhere, but you also have to use it on the same turn, what should not be a problem...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your examples are fine, but of course the Joker has to be used and can not stand alone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complete rules can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rummikub.com/#rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T10:11:29.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23363" CreationDate="2015-03-11T13:03:10.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wow, they've really been messing with the rules of the game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In every version of Rummikub that I've ever played (and I'm one for reading the rules before we start playing), this kind of thing is explicitly disallowed like this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A combination which contains a joker can have further tiles added to it, but nothing can be taken from it, nor can it be rearranged in&#xA;  any way while there is a joker in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link if you're interested:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/rummikub.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/rummikub.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously there are different publications of the game with different rule sets, but I far prefer this &quot;joker melds cannot be split!&quot; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T13:03:10.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23363" CreationDate="2015-03-11T13:10:28.213" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Different versions of rummikub come with different rules. If you have a version of the rules which states that you cannot move the joker tile out of a meld, I would be very surprised if you were allowed to move other tiles out of the meld, as this would not make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T13:10:28.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23369" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23364" CreationDate="2015-03-11T14:00:55.970" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 8 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://desktopgames.com.ua/games/3/citadelsrules.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; says (regarding 2-3 player games):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game is played normally, except that each player will have two&#xA;  turns during each round (one turn for each character). Players do not&#xA;  have to separate their gold or their districts between their&#xA;  characters, as they still only have one city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 7 of the rulebook says (regarding Game End):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player builds his eighth district, the game ends after the&#xA;  current round is completed. At the end of the game, each player&#xA;  receives points for all of the following...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not say that you cannot build a 9th district with your 2nd character. It simply states that once the 8th district is built, the current round will be the last round. So each player gets two turns during each round, and you have to finish all of the turns for the final round. &lt;strong&gt;Yes, you may build an additional district.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5391" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T14:00:55.970" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23372" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:43:40.960" Score="1" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I collect MTG cards and after hoarding a huge collection I'm trying to get it all organized now from this mess.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found an xls file that has almost all of the cards on it but it's not updated for the latest 2-3 sets.  I can find an input all the information required for those but I don't know where to find the info for this &quot;CIN&quot; column - it looks like it is just the abbreviation of the set name and then the card number within the set?  How do I know what the abbreviation is and is there anywhere I can just look up this information?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12072" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T17:12:34.240" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T17:12:34.240" Title="Finding the CIN of MTG Cards for collection on recent (2017-ish) MTG cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23372" CreationDate="2015-03-11T18:52:02.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;CIN&quot; probably stands for &quot;Card Identification Number&quot; or something similar, just based on context. This does not appear to be a commonly used term online when discussing Magic: the Gathering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The abbreviation for each set is officially decided by Wizards. You can find these abbreviations at &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_sets&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Set&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-11T18:52:02.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-11T23:54:10.987" Score="0" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;We just played forbidden Island my partner was the pilot and we collected all four treasures and made it to the helicopter pad. Do we still need the  &quot;helicopter Lift card&quot; to fly off the island with the treasure seeing as they are the pilot anyways?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I am a Navigator is it correct to say that I can move someone 2 spaces but not utilize that move for an action also . For example could I move someone 2 spaces (1 move)and then have them shore up a flooded tile ( turn # 2 of mine)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12074" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T13:18:54.553" Title="Forbidden Island" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-03-13T21:05:27.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21196" CreationDate="2015-03-12T02:43:08.917" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd recommend to not sort by edition. It will drive you mad. I put all of my rares and mythics in binders. The commons and uncommons are separated and are then sorted by color then by creatures or spells. I can quickly find what I want with this system. I would occasionally cull through the cards and see which ones haven't been played for awhile or if they have printed a better version and move those to my trade binder. This is probably the most effective and sane system I've come up with and I've been at this for almost 20 years. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12075" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T02:43:08.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23363" CreationDate="2015-03-12T03:11:05.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We always played that Jokers value was 'set' until you replaced it with a chip from your hand.  So if you had a Black 123J the Joker was a Black 4 until it was actually replaced with one from you HAND not elsewhere already in play.  I don't have the rules to double check to make sure it wasn't a house rule.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T03:11:05.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23378" CreationDate="2015-03-12T03:24:20.943" Score="3" ViewCount="26813" Body="&lt;p&gt;When casting a creature for its the Dash cost, will the creature return on the same turn's end step or the next turn's end step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8550" LastEditorUserId="8550" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T04:22:32.187" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T04:22:32.187" Title="When does &quot;at the beginning of the next end step&quot; trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23377" CreationDate="2015-03-12T03:44:50.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase &quot;at the beginning of the next end step&quot; means &quot;the next time an end step begins.&quot; So, after you play a creature with Dash, when an end step starts, the creature returns to your hand. Usually, this means that it returns to your hand at the beginning of the end step on the turn when you played it. However, if you somehow play it during an end step, it won't return until the following turn's end step because that is the next time that an end step begins after you play the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it doesn't say &quot;your next end step,&quot; so if you play it during your own end step, it returns to your hand at the end of your opponent's end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-03-12T03:55:25.783" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T03:55:25.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18871" CreationDate="2015-03-12T10:40:43.817" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think it's Rummy 500 or 500 Rummy.  Did you look for this variation in the Official Hoyal Card Game Rule book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12077" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T10:40:43.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23374" CreationDate="2015-03-12T13:18:54.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you still need to play Helicopter Lift to win the game, regardless of whether you have a pilot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Navigator is only able to move other players, not cause them to take actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-12T13:18:54.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12364" CreationDate="2015-03-12T22:55:20.423" Score="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the other answers have been written, a card has been released that explicitly allows activating loyalty abilities any time you could play an instant: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389712&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Teferi, Temporal Archmage&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;em&gt;Commander 2014&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He's a planeswalker with a relevant ultimate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;−10: You get an emblem with &quot;You may activate loyalty abilities of planeswalkers you control on any player's turn any time you could cast an instant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you manage to get him to 10 loyalty and activate this ability, you will be able to play loyalty abilities of planeswalkers at instant speed. It's not an exciting combo or abuse of the rules, but it can still be a lot of fun in a slow multiplayer game—exactly what the whole &lt;em&gt;Commander 2014&lt;/em&gt; set is all about!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for activating loyalty abilities multiple times in a turn, that is possible with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThe%20Chain%20Veil%5d&quot;&gt;The Chain Veil&lt;/a&gt;.  A card first printed in 2015, long after the question was originally asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11669" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:00:30.290" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T20:00:30.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23382" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T00:31:47.167" Score="6" ViewCount="2018" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm playing Forbidden island with a friend and we have all 4 treasures do we have to have the &quot;Helicopter Lift &quot; card still to leave the island from the launch pad if they are the pilot? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12084" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T03:25:12.793" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T14:24:40.773" Title="Helicopter Lift" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23383" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T00:37:22.030" Score="5" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am a Navigator and I decide to move my partner can I also assume an action through them also? For example if I move a partner 2 spaces beside a flooded tile can I shore up the piece for an action through them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12084" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T03:25:42.010" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T03:25:42.010" Title="Navigator Role ability" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22484" CreationDate="2015-03-13T00:49:16.723" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vizkopa%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Vizkopa Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following activated ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}{W}{B}: Whenever you gain life this turn, each opponent loses that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a health to damage deck. All I have to do is pay 1 white, 1 black, and 1 mana of any color each turn, and play any health gaining card, and my opponent loses that much health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I run 4 of these with some instances of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Font%20of%20Vigor&quot;&gt;Font of Vigor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Centaur%20Healer&quot;&gt;Centaur Healer&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kheru%20Bloodsucker&quot;&gt;Kheru Bloodsucker&lt;/a&gt; (gain health when creature of toughness 4 or higher is killed) and finish with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20of%20Innistrad&quot;&gt;Soul of Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;: for {3}{B}{B}, bring 3 creatures from grave to my hand. These make an infinite loop!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12085" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T00:17:20.863" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T00:17:20.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23424" CreationDate="2015-03-13T01:39:39.133" Score="8" ViewCount="3530" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solo game of Caverna is completely deterministic.  There is no luck.  There are no opponents to mess up your strategy.  So, a particular sequence of moves will always result in the same score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that there is a particular sequence of moves that will result in the maximum possible score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I'm not actually expecting anyone to put forth each and every choice that you would have to make--though that would be very cool.  As a computer geek, I've spent a few minutes musing about how to design a program that will do the search; but, I'd rather spend my time playing Caverna than to write such a simulator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, surely there are some good Solo Caverna players out there, who could at least talk about their particular strategies for maximizing points.  Are there particular furnishings that you get?  Ruby maximization?  Weapons?  6 Dwarfs?  What do you do that breaks the &quot;magical 100 point mark?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2056" LastEditorUserId="2056" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T12:36:17.527" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T03:58:00.980" Title="What sequence of moves in Solo Caverna result in the maximum score?" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23383" CreationDate="2015-03-13T03:20:04.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules list four actions that a player can take on their turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Shore Up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Give a Treasure Card &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Capture a Treasure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Move is an action and Shore Up is a different action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Navigator's card text says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move another player up to 2 adjacent tiles for 1 action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since shoring up (or giving a treasure card, or capturing a treasure, or using a special ability that requires an action) is distinct from movement, &lt;strong&gt;the Navigator is only permitted to make them do the Move action.&lt;/strong&gt; I imagine it would say something like &quot;Have another player take 1 action for 1 of your actions&quot; or something if it were allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the plus side, Navigators are useful for helping other players get in position, and they can move a character 2 tiles instead of the usual 1 that they would be doing on their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T03:20:04.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T11:08:53.190" Score="3" ViewCount="9079" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphous%20Rush&quot;&gt;Polymorphous Rush&lt;/a&gt; on a strong creature on my battlefield so that my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hamletback%20Goliath&quot;&gt;Hamletback Goliath&lt;/a&gt;'s ability will trigger.  The creature that will become the copy is already on the battlefield, but when it becomes a copy of the strong creature, will this trigger my Hamletback Goliath's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, Hamletback Goliath reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield, you may put X +1/+1 counters on Hamletback Goliath, where X is that creature's power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12089" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T12:10:03.837" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T19:44:59.013" Title="When a permanent is being made to copy another, does it count as entering the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-16T07:16:53.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23389" CreationDate="2015-03-13T11:34:33.640" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The creatures are already on the battlefield and merely change by copying the original, so they don't enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T11:34:33.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23389" CreationDate="2015-03-13T12:48:10.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it will not trigger the Goliath since nothing is entering the battlefield, a creature is just changing characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you can do, however, is wait for a new creature to enter the battlefield and trigger the Goliath. With the trigger on the stack, you can then Polymorphous Rush the triggering creature, and the Goliath will get counters based on the new power. This is because the Goliath's ability doesn't check to see what the power of the creature is when it enters, it checks as the ability is resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T12:57:23.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T12:57:23.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23382" CreationDate="2015-03-13T13:18:40.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, even if you have a Pilot, you must still play Helicopter Lift with everyone on the launch pad in order to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T13:18:40.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23393" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T16:03:13.740" Score="1" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;** This question involves knowledge of computer programming and/or math and algorithms. **&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am working on writing a Warhammer combat simulator in Java and have hit an interesting snag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pg 20 BRB:&#xA;&quot;Once the charging unit contacts the enemy unit, it must perform a second, bonus wheel if required to bring its front facing into flush contact with the facing of the enemy unit that has been charged, maximizing the number of models in base contact on both sides&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aligning the units in this way is absurdly simple when looking at them, but trying to write the code to do the same thing is proving difficult. I tried posting the question to &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/questions/29035291/programmatic-analysis-of-geometric-shapes/29036305#29036305&quot;&gt;Stack Overflow&lt;/a&gt;, but I think the concept is too vague. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm trying to simulate combat between a unit of spearmen (20x20mm bases) and a unit of horsemen (25x50mm bases), and programatically determine how many models will get attacks during the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12091" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:40:31.240" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T01:18:07.683" Title="Mathematically / logically determine unit alignment for close combat" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-04-21T06:24:57.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23389" CreationDate="2015-03-13T16:28:10.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphous%20Rush&quot;&gt;Polymorphous Rush&lt;/a&gt; to modify the characteristic of a permanent does not cause it to change zones. No creatures left or entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T16:28:10.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23382" CreationDate="2015-03-13T16:36:09.847" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &quot;Fly to a tile&quot; is not the same thing as &quot;discard a Helicopter Lift card&quot;. Furthermore, the Pilot's ability specifically limits the flight to another island tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The win condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Get to Fools’ Landing! Once you have collected all four treasures, everyone must move their pawns to the Fools’ Landing tile. Then, &lt;strong&gt;one player must discard a Helicopter Lift card&lt;/strong&gt; to lift your team off of Forbidden Island for the win!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pilot's ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, &lt;strong&gt;fly to any tile on the island&lt;/strong&gt; for 1 action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T14:24:40.773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T14:24:40.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23389" CreationDate="2015-03-13T18:42:25.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is stated plainly by comprehensive rule 706.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;706.4. Some effects cause a permanent that’s copying a permanent to copy a different object while remaining on the battlefield. The change doesn’t trigger enters-the-battlefield or leaves-the battlefield abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you might have guessed by reading the other answers, this rule is redundant. Rule 603.6a tells us what we need to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6a Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 603.6a doesn't care what the permanent's name is. It just cares that it is a permanent. The permanent could change names a hundred times, and it would still be the same permanent, (sitting there on the battlefield).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-13T19:44:59.013" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T19:44:59.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23397" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24204" CreationDate="2015-03-13T19:02:52.937" Score="9" ViewCount="810" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/23396/6692&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt;, and I feel like it would benefit (slightly - it's not exactly a crucial part of the answer) from knowing when rule 706.4 was introduced. I feel that if I can find out &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; a rule was introduced, I can more easily research &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; it was introduced, and then I can write a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, how can I determine when a comprehensive rule was introduced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2024-02-07T18:30:45.160" Title="How can I find out when a specific comprehensive rule was introduced?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23397" CreationDate="2015-03-13T19:14:16.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to use Yawgatog's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/rules-changes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules changes list&lt;/a&gt;, which shows every rule that was changed in each set. Rules that were added in that set show up on the right entirely in blue text. Since rules sometimes get renumbered, you should also pay attention to other rules changes under 706. This still involves checking each set, but it's a lot faster than searching whole comprehensive rules versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this only goes back to the original Ravnica block, so you won't find rules older than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T19:14:16.827" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23399" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-13T21:44:38.227" Score="-1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd heard at one point that someone was working on a &quot;Universal Game Pack&quot; that provided the components necessary to play a large number of games, just as one can with a regular deck of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with a deck of cards numbered from 1 to 135, I can play war, No Thanks, Category 5, and others. With a regular deck plus four special cards, I can play Tichu. Throw in a bag of universal tokens and I can play a bunch of other games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anybody heard of a universal game pack like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12094" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T22:34:16.710" Title="Universal Game Packs" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-16T07:15:19.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23399" CreationDate="2015-03-13T22:34:16.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may be interested in the Rainbow Deck: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/59655/rainbow-deck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/59655/rainbow-deck&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decks that it can be mapped into:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sequence of numbers of 0 to 119&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Letters with values similar to the game system Letter Head and similar games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 suits (colour/number) x 1-13 values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 suits (icon) x 1-23 values (2x10+3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 suits (icon) x 2 copies of 1-13 values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 suits (colour/number) x 2 copies of 1-6 dice values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 suits (icon) x 4 copies of 1-6 dice values&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 suits (icon) x 26 letter cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;n * 26 letter cards + rare letter cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 copy x value 1,..., 12 copies x value 12(Q), 13 copies x value 13(K+joker)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Double-Nine domino set x 2 copies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page on BoardGameGeek has downloads of a pdf you can print, info on where to buy one and a file listing the games that can be played with it. I'm pretty sure it covers most of what you would want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1147935/where-get-rainbow-deck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1147935/where-get-rainbow-deck&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12096" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T22:34:16.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8223" CreationDate="2015-03-13T23:03:26.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;England and Turkey are really not that far away from each other.  A &quot;wicked witches&quot; alliance against Russia is quite viable in the early game, depending on how all the other relationships takes shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common mistake for novices playing England or Turkey is to assume that the affairs of the other are irrelevant to them, since they are on opposite corners of the board.  Just because your pieces are not next to each other, does not mean the relationship doesn't matter.  You can leak information, or false information, to prop up or sabotage the efforts of others.  You can plan for the eventual stab.  Endless possibilities!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, imagine that France attacks Italy early.  This is a perfect opportunity for England and Turkey to swoop in and take some centers while those two are fighting.  But if the &quot;wicked witches&quot; aren't talking to each other, that is much less likely to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12095" LastActivityDate="2015-03-13T23:03:26.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23402" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-14T18:59:04.633" Score="1" ViewCount="19243" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature card gives another creature counters does the counters go away when the creature that gave them dies.(the card does NOT say It gives is  a +1 +1 counter as long as it is on the field)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12100" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T21:06:40.367" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T21:06:40.367" Title="Do counters go away when the creature that gave them dies" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23405" CreationDate="2015-03-14T19:14:03.887" Score="2" ViewCount="653" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crackleburr&quot;&gt;Crackleburr&lt;/a&gt;, two red and blue useless tokens, and an infinite amount of red and blue mana. Crackleburr's card text is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{U/R}{U/R}{T}, Tap two untapped red creatures you control: Crackleburr deals &amp;gt;3 damage to target creature or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{U/R}{U/R}{Q}, Untap two tapped blue creatures you control: Return target creature to its owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's say that my opponent, on his turn, activates Crackleburr's first ability to kill a creature of mine. I respond with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20to%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt; on Crackleburr. Can Crackleburr respond to that Path to Exile by activating his second ability? Then, assuming it can, can Crackleburr respond to his second activation by activating his first ability &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt;? So, with infinite mana, can Crackleburr continually respond to itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12101" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T01:06:25.880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T01:06:25.880" Title="Can crackleburr respond to himself?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23402" CreationDate="2015-03-14T19:18:06.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the counters stay where they are. Counters are a separate entity once they are placed on a permanent. If a creature says &quot;other creatures get +1+1&quot; and then leaves the battlefield, the bonus is lost. And if a creature with +1+1 counters on it leaves the battlefield, the counters go away. But in the scenario you described, the counters stay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12101" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T19:18:06.843" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23403" CreationDate="2015-03-14T19:45:49.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player could, in fact, repeatedly activate Crackeburr if the player had the mana to do so, as long as the player had two other creatures available that were both red and blue, because the tapping and untapping are costs and not effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time the player would have to pick targets for the effects - and could keep picking the same targets over and over again if desired. The effects with targets would go on the stack, so that you would have a stack consisting of the three-damage effect at the bottom, then the return-to-hand, then three-damage, then return-to-hand, etc. Instances of either effect would fizzle if they targeted creatures that were already returned to hand or destroyed via damage. (Bear in mind that damage doesn't use the stack, so as soon as a Crackleburr invocation is resolved because the stack unwound to that point, then if the creature has lethal damage, it will be destroyed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably your opponent used Crackleburr's untap ability specifically to bounce itself. This would work, and yes, your opponent could tap it a third time to do three damage if there were mana and untapped creatures available. At that point these things happen in order as the stack unwinds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crackleburr does three damage to the second target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crackleburr returns itself to its owner's hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Path to Exile tries to exile Crackleburr but fails because the target is no longer on the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Crackleburr does three damage to the first target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-03-14T19:45:49.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23407" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-14T21:19:46.967" Score="1" ViewCount="1511" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son and myself have just started playing Cribbage. &#xA;In our game this evening the following cards were played with me leading - &#xA;My cards - 2,3,4,5. His cards - 5,2,3,A&#xA;My understanding was that that the maximum you could score in Cribbage was 29 but I think he scored 40 when he played the Ace - am I correct or am I adding up incorrectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12103" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T16:01:03.587" Title="Cribbage - Total score please" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23407" CreationDate="2015-03-15T02:25:23.933" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about the &quot;Pegging&quot; phase of each hand of cribbage, and assuming that the cards you types in order were played in that order, here is the order of events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pegging Phase Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You lead with a 2. Currently, the count is at 2 and no point are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your son plays a 5. The count moves to 7 (2+5=7). No points are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play a 3. The count is at 10. No points are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your son plays a 2. The count is at 12. No points are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play a 4. The count is at 16. The last four cards played were a 4, a 2, 3 and a 5. That is a consecutive run of 4. You get four points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your son plays a 3. The count is at 19. The last three cards played were a 3, a 4 and a 2. That is a consecutive run of 3 cards. Your son gets three points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You play a 5. The count is at 21. The last four cards played were a 5, a 3, a 4 and a 2. That is a consecutive run of 4 cards. You get four more points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your son finally plays an A. The count moved to 22. The last five cards player were a A, a 5, a 3, a 4, and a 2. That is a run of 5 cards. Your son scores 5 points for the run, and an additional 1 point for last card played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note these special scoring rules:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player scores two points in the pegging phase when they play a pair. So if Player A plays a 4, and player B plays a 4 to bring the count to 8, Player B receives 2 points for playing a pair. Like all scoring in the Pegging Phase, the played cards must happen sequentially to count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player scores 6 points for playing triplets, and 12 points for four-of-a-kind. Again, these must happen sequentially. So Player A plays a 4, B plays a 4 to bring the count to 8 and scores 2 points, A plays another 4 to bring the count to 12 and scores 6 points, and B plays the last four to bring the count to 16 and scores 12 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, a sequential run scores points equal to the number of cards in the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone scores two points in the pegging phase when they play a card that makes the count equal 15 or 31. The count can never exceed 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are special rules concerning what happens if a player cannot play a card without making the count exceed 31. For now, just know that the player who last played a card without going over 31 receives 1 point, called a &quot;go&quot; and then continues to play until they also can no longer play cards without exceeding 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scoring Phase Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're talking about the scoring phase, wherein both players count up the number of points in their hand, your son still has not scored 40 points. We would need to know the cut card to determine how many points he &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; score, but at the moment, 5,2,3,A scores three points- for the run of A,2,3. If all four cards were also all of the same suit, they would score 4 additional points, bringing the hand's total up to 7 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12101" LastEditorUserId="12101" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T16:01:03.587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T16:01:03.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23407" CreationDate="2015-03-15T14:13:12.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;SillyPutty’s answer is good, but has errors once reaching the play of the father’s 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how the play unfolds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Father plays 2, says “2”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Son plays 5, says “7”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Father plays 3, says “10”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Son plays 2, says “12”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Father plays 4, says “16, 4 for the run (2, 3, 4, 5)”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Son plays 3, says “19, 3 for the run (2, 3, 4)”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Father plays 5, says “24, 4 for the run (2, 3, 4, 5)”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Son plays A, says “25, 5 for the run (A, 2, 3, 4, 5) and one for last makes 6”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In total the father scores 8 and the son scores 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5174" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T14:13:12.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23570" CreationDate="2015-03-15T15:55:00.970" Score="16" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the name of the board game in the picture below please?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rK6MJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12111" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-28T05:35:41.273" LastActivityDate="2018-08-04T10:11:40.577" Title="Identify this board and card game relating to 19th century race horses" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23166" CreationDate="2015-03-15T16:44:01.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have in my possession all of the anglophone, Parker Brothers/Hasbro, Risk board game rule books ever published since 1959 as I am rewriting the rule book taking into account all of the European &amp;amp; North American evolutionary differences.  Scanned versions of theses rule books can be found on Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 5 of the 1993 edition, step 5 of the setup reads as follows:&#xA;5. Shuffle the pack of RISK cards (remove the Mission cards) and place it, face down, by the side of the board.  This pack forms the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 5 of the 1999 edition, step 6 of the setup reads as follows:&#xA;6. Shuffle the remaining pack of RISK cards and place it, facedown, by the side of the board.  This pack forms the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answers the first portion of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 7 &amp;amp; 8 of the 1963 edition, step (h) of the play reads as follows:&#xA;(h). Play of cards:&#xA;If a player has captured one or more territories on his turn, he is entitled to take the top card from the deck that has already been placed face down on the table.  He puts this card in front of him and does not disclose it to his opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answers the first portion &amp;amp; the second portion of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another related question that has arisen over my years of playing this classic game is whether or not a player must disclose how many cards they have acquired in their card hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is not addressed in any Parker Brothers/Hasbro rule book that has ever crossed my eyes, however  on line playing does allow other players to see how many cards each player has collected therefore I have incorporated the obligation to disclose how many cards are in your card hand in the rule book that I am rewriting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T16:44:01.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:00:24.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wish to make your own map as I have, you could perhaps visit strategygamenetwork.com where you will find at least 80 different maps created by various users of this site.  My map is Polar World.  I have found that playing with 7 players does not make for an enjoyable game of RISK, but if you must, a good ration is 7 to 10 territories per player.  If you want to play with 7 players, your map should have approximately 48 to 70 territories.  Given that Parker Brothers/Hasbro has issued different coloured &amp;amp; styled soldiers over the years, finding more colours or styles on e-bay is not difficult. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="12113" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T10:10:52.443" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T10:10:52.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23415" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:15:54.767" Score="-1" ViewCount="2863" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a couple of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Generator%20Servant&quot;&gt;Generator Servant&lt;/a&gt; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}, Sacrifice Generator Servant: Add {2} to your mana pool. If that&#xA;mana is spent on a creature spell, it gains haste until end of turn.&#xA;(That creature can attack and {T} as soon as it comes under your&#xA;control.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Must this mana be used immediately or can it be used in a future round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if it's used, does it disappear forever after being used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12115" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T20:22:29.660" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T20:22:29.660" Title="Is mana generated by a sacrifice ability permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-17T19:58:56.147" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23414" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:24:13.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All mana empties from your mana pool at the end of each step or phase. So you must use it within the same step. All mana that is spent is, well, &quot;spent&quot;, it's gone; you can't use it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The steps of a turn are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning Phase&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a. Untap step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b.Upkeep step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c. Draw step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Main Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Phase&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a. Beginning of combat step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b. Declare attackers step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;c. Declare blockers step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;d. Combat damage step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;e. End of combat step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second Main Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ending Phase&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a. End step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b. Cleanup step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend reading through the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_mtgm11_rulebook_lr_web.pdf&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, because understanding what happens with generated mana is fundamental to playing the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mana pool:&#xA;  The place where your mana is stored until you spend it.&#xA;  When mana gets added to your mana pool, it stays there&#xA;  until you spend it or until the current step or phase ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-15T17:29:59.667" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T17:29:59.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23416" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23418" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:26:45.540" Score="0" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlefield%20Forge&quot;&gt;Battlefield Forge&lt;/a&gt; add 2 mana each time it's tapped or is it just one of the two tapped mana options? Or can you choose between both at once vs one? And is the mana only there while it's tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {1} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {R} or {W} to your mana pool. Battlefield Forge deals 1 damage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12115" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T13:17:18.293" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T13:17:18.293" Title="Does Battlefield Forge add two mana to your pool each time it is tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-03-15T21:15:33.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9764" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:40:49.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have considered &amp;amp; re-considered the concept of involving a gambling aspect to the classic game of Risk.   I have come to the conclusion that playing this classic game should not involve money as people whom like money games will gravitate towards poker &amp;amp; people who like strategy &amp;amp; balance of power will gravitate to Risk.&#xA;The best games of Risk that I have played are the games that I lost.&#xA;Introducing a financial loss to theses amazing games would diminish this experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you must, I have come up with these concepts:&#xA;1)  Everybody puts a certain amount in a pot &amp;amp; the winner takes the pot.&#xA;OR&#xA;2)  You must buy all of your soldiers that you start with that you will place on the map at the beginning of the game &amp;amp; throughout the game.&#xA;A penny for every soldier or a dollar for every soldier or anything in between.  When you buy your soldiers the money goes into the winner’s pot.&#xA;As you kill soldiers on the map you keep theses soldiers as your own to cash them in at the end of the game.  You might have to make soldier swaps with other players during the game as you have their coloured soldiers &amp;amp; they have yours, but the swaps are 1 for 1.   When a game ends the losers get to take the money out of the pot for the soldiers that they have paid for but not put on the map yet &amp;amp; the money for the soldiers that they have killed &amp;amp; not trade with other players.  If at any point in the game it is agreed by all other players to concede a game to the obvious would be winner the game is cut short &amp;amp; the winner takes a smaller pot.  A longer game would make for a larger pot.  You can actually play with real coins that have been spray painted to the colour of each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T17:40:49.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23416" CreationDate="2015-03-15T17:43:10.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll only get one mana, and like all mana, it'll be there until you spend it or until the end of the current step/phase. (There are a very small number of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omnath%2C%20Locus%20of%20Mana&quot;&gt;Omnath, Locus of Mana&lt;/a&gt; in the game which change this, but they clearly, explicitly say so.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities are of the form &amp;quot;cost: effect&amp;quot;. You pay the cost, and get the effect. In this case the cost is simply tapping the land. So you can choose one of those abilities to activate, then you'll have tapped the land, and you won't be able to activate the other anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-03-15T17:43:10.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23421" CreationDate="2015-03-16T02:30:38.700" Score="6" ViewCount="5517" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Betrayal at House on the Hill for the first time on the weekend. I was the traitor and it was haunt #38. I followed my interpretation of what the book said, which when the first person died read, and then said I did it wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: The version is not the newest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text (from memory):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place as many firebats as there are players in the room where the Haunt started&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place 6 (total players) firebats in the room where the Haunt started&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their interpretation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place 1 (number of players in the room where the Haunt started) firebat in the room where the Haunt started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Newest revision&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Get out a number of firebats (represented by&#xA;  orange Bat tokens) equal to half the number&#xA;  of players, rounded up. Put them in the room&#xA;  where the haunt was revealed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was my interpretation correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12119" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T14:32:10.653" Title="Betrayal Haunt #38 How Many Firebats?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23420" CreationDate="2015-03-16T03:18:25.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your interpretation was correct. There are several haunts where it refers to &quot;as many things as there are players&quot;. While the sentence is grammatically ambiguous, the other interpretation would be very strange because there wil always be only 1 player in the room where the Haunt started; the player who revealed the Haunt. So if that's what they meant, then they could have just said &quot;place 1 firebat in the room...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the newer revision seems to confirm that the number of firebat is meant to be based on the number of players; though obviously they felt the traitor needed to be nerfed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other &quot;proof&quot;... if &quot;players in the room where the Haunt started&quot; were meant as all one clause, then there's nothing at all in the sentence telling you where to place the firebats. The interpretation would be &quot;place 1 firebat&quot;, with no mention of where to place them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T14:32:10.653" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T14:32:10.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23422" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23423" CreationDate="2015-03-16T05:07:06.080" Score="-1" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Essence&quot;&gt;Wall of Essence&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brave%20the%20Sands&quot;&gt;Brave the Sands&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. My opponent has two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mardu%20Woe-Reaper&quot;&gt;Mardu Woe-Reaper&lt;/a&gt;s on the battlefield. Based on Brave the Sands description I can block both Woe-Reapers, but does that also mean my Wall of Essence will be destroyed since the accumulated power of the two Woe-Reapers is four?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8550" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T16:39:08.000" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T16:39:08.000" Title="How is damage dealt when a creature is blocking multiple creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23422" CreationDate="2015-03-16T05:27:39.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your Wall of Essence can block both Mardu Woe-Reapers. And yes, the combined power of the Woe-Reapers will destroy the Wall of Essence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how combat proceeds in this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat starts. The Declare Attackers Step starts, and your opponent declares both Mardu Woe-Reapers as attackers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Declare Blockers Step starts, and you declare your Wall of Essence as a blocker of both Woe-Reapers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Combat Damage Step starts. Each unblocked creature deals damage equal to its power to the defending player, each blocked creature deals damage equal to its power divided among its blockers, and each blocking creature deals damage equal to its power divided among the creatures it is blocking. In total, this means that each Woe-Reaper deals 2 damage to the Wall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State Based Effects are checked. The Wall has 4 damage marked on it and 4 toughness, so it dies as a state based effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T05:27:39.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23385" CreationDate="2015-03-16T19:09:07.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key to maximum points for my solo endeavours has been to use the Office which allows overhangs, and the Guest room for multiple actions.  I then work to get many tunnels inside, and overhang tunnels.  After the overhang tunnels are placed, I also place Ore mines, for even more overhang bonus, and use the double action to place two ruby mines at once.  For this to work, you need extra dwarfs, preferably 5.  You should be pulling in about 30ish gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&#xA;All in all, because of the possibility of a 'optimal' strategy based on card layout, I also tend to use some dice to add some random blocking, so the game has some more replay-ability solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually score around 140.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="4940" LastEditDate="2015-03-16T21:41:35.030" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T21:41:35.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23429" CreationDate="2015-03-16T21:27:42.283" Score="1" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;bit of a  Magic n00b here. I was wondering, can I use basic lands that are not currently in standard? (eg dragon's maze) I just thought this might be  thing as no matter what set ut's in, basic lands do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11850" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T21:34:40.530" Title="Can I use lands from previous sets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-03-16T22:02:31.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23429" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23428" CreationDate="2015-03-16T21:34:40.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing that matters for card legality is the name. Whether it's a &quot;Forest&quot; or &quot;Grizzly Bears&quot;, the set that it was printed in is irrelevant; all that matters is if &quot;Forest&quot; is legal in the current format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-03-16T21:34:40.530" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-16T23:52:49.127" Score="0" ViewCount="1270" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I block a flyer with a non-flying non-reach card granted reach by having a +1/+1 counter and the card longshot squad on battlefield and then remove the counter with retribution of the ancients before damage is dealt, is that card no longer able to block?  Or if the same creature attacks with abzan falconer and then has the counter removed after blockers are declared?  Would they be able to redeclare a blocker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12130" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T01:38:39.583" Title="How does removing +1/+1 counters during combat affect abilities granted from having that counter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-03-17T01:59:27.263" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23430" CreationDate="2015-03-17T01:26:22.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once blockers are assigned, you do not recheck legality of assignments again. The creature is considered blocked and combat damage is exchanged between them normally. The same would be true if an attacking creature became unblockable after a blocker was assigned to it. It would still be blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.1g&lt;/strong&gt; Each chosen creature still controlled by the defending player becomes a blocking creature. Each one is blocking the attacking&#xA;  creatures chosen for it. It remains a blocking creature until it’s&#xA;  removed from combat or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first.&#xA;  See rule 506.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12120" LastEditorUserId="12120" LastEditDate="2015-03-17T01:38:39.583" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T01:38:39.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:28:52.323" Score="8" ViewCount="5079" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend played Munchkin Deluxe the other day and told me he won at level 8 when he killed a monster which granted 2 levels. To my understanding, I thought you NEED to kill at level 9 in order to win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain if this is correct or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12132" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-04-08T10:15:58.850" LastActivityDate="2017-04-08T10:15:58.850" Title="Can you win at level 8 in Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23432" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:35:05.383" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Munchkin Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first player to reach Level 10 wins . . . but you must reach Level 10 by&#xA;  killing a monster, unless a card specifically allows you to win another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only requirement it gives is that you kill a monster to reach Level 10, it doesn't say you have to be Level 9 when you kill it. The only other rules about winning say you can't reach Level 10 by selling loot or playing a Level Up card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot;&gt;Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note also that ANY level gained as a result of killing a monster counts as the winning level. If you have a Race or Class ability that lets you get an extra level after winning certain combats, that level can be the winning level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This supports the idea that you don't have to be Level 9 when you kill a monster, you just have to get to Level 10 as a result of killing a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T13:35:05.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23435" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:41:27.243" Score="4" ViewCount="4587" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found, what appeared to be complete sets made by Wizards of the Coast.  I had been contemplating buying a complete set of Dragons of Tarkir, with seemingly many vendors making offers, and now I find that (at least on Amazon.com) there are no vendors offering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are complete sets always offered?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When are complete sets offered?  Only as part of pre-release?  Or for longer?!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of what I'm describing can be seen in this picture &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qtrGG.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of full set&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to an ebay auction, for a &quot;factory sealed&quot; complete set of Khans of Tarkir:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Khans-of-Tarkir-KTK-Complete-Set-with-Mythics-MTG-Factory-Sealed-/181643375810?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item2a4ac9f4c2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/itm/Khans-of-Tarkir-KTK-Complete-Set-with-Mythics-MTG-Factory-Sealed-/181643375810?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&amp;amp;hash=item2a4ac9f4c2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link that may rot more slowly, pointing to all magic the gathering &quot;complete sets&quot; offers on EBay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ebay.com/sch/Complete-Sets-/19114/i.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.ebay.com/sch/Complete-Sets-/19114/i.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one week ago, there were at least 3 vendors providing &quot;factory sealed&quot; sets of Dragons of Tarkir on amazon.  Now I can't find any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T03:20:49.763" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T04:19:14.547" Title="What is the availability of the complete sets Wizards of the Coast is apparently selling?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23434" CreationDate="2015-03-17T13:55:33.550" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The picture, and eBay auction you link to is for a set that Wizards sends out as part of &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/984/~/magic-online%3A-redemption-policies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Online set redemption&lt;/a&gt;. The way this works is if you have all of the cards in a specific set, and it is before the cutoff date for redeeming that set, you can have Wizards remove the set of cards from your MTGO account and mail you a set of physical cards. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGfAW9t7Mw0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This video&lt;/a&gt; shows the boxes from a set redemption, and what the contents of that boxes look like. These sets are never sold by Wizards, though as this auction shows they can be resold by third parties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast is not selling complete sets of cards. Third party vendors such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/category.php?t=a&amp;amp;cat=141&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star City Games&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.channelfireball.com/catalog/wholesale_lots__sets-sets/498&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Channel Fireball&lt;/a&gt; however do. These third party vendors offer the complete sets by opening packs and putting the sets together themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These vendors usually offer these products (the larger ones pretty much always do, smaller ones may or may not, it depends on if they think they can afford to or not), as for how long they offer it it depends entirely on how easy it is to keep in stock, and restock when they sell out. This means in general you can find newer sets for sale, but as you go farther back it is less likely that they will have a complete set in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T04:19:14.547" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T04:19:14.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23434" CreationDate="2015-03-17T14:13:44.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast does not sell complete card sets to either the public or to retail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you may have heard about was the complete sets offered &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/984/~/magic-online%3A-redemption-policies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;via Magic the Gathering Online&lt;/a&gt;. The deal is: if you have all cards in a set owned in your MTGO account, Wizards of the Coast can ship you the &lt;em&gt;real physical cards,&lt;/em&gt; at your expense, and then will erase the digital cards, never to be seen again. This generally means collecting all of the virtual cards the usual hard way: boosters, trading, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other conditions too, such as having to actually be eligible for redemption. At the moment, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/events-schedule-2014-08-27#redemption&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;those sets are listed on this table&lt;/a&gt;, and comprise the sets and core sets from Return to Ravnica up to Fate Reforged. (So, no Dragons of Tarkir yet.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card traders will, of course, sell complete sets online they've put together simply by opening enough boosters and having enough luck, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/23435/5573&quot;&gt;as diego points out&lt;/a&gt;. This is a totally unofficial thing that Wizards of the Coast doesn't offer directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T23:23:14.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21207" CreationDate="2015-03-17T20:35:39.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to one resource (&lt;a href=&quot;http://sloperama.com/hanafuda/koikoi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://sloperama.com/hanafuda/koikoi.htm&lt;/a&gt;), if the last card does not complete a meld, no score is awarded to either player; and the deal remains with the same player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8484" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T20:35:39.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4197" CreationDate="2015-03-17T22:56:12.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This alliance can work long-term if Russia is comfortable with a northern expansion vector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short-term, Austria and Russia can conquer Turkey, divide the spoils and fortify.  Park fleets in the Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean seas and you're done.  Russia keeps only enough hardware in the south to prevent a stab, in parity with Austria.  If Austria gets in trouble he will &lt;em&gt;ask&lt;/em&gt; you to build Fleet Sevastopol to reinforce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the north, conquer England and go from there.  Make sure Germany is OK with a Fleet St. Petersburg South Coast, or Army Warsaw, build on an as-needed basis.  Russia must own Sweden.  I usually try to get Denmark, Sweden, Skagerrak and Baltic Sea to be an agreed DMZ (except with cause).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without some arrangement like this, the deal can't work long-term because Russia has no viable expansion vector except through his allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as usual, never leave your homeland empty unless you also have armies parked near your neighbors' centers.  No matter how loyal your ally seems, don't give him that temptation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12095" LastActivityDate="2015-03-17T22:56:12.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23221" CreationDate="2015-03-18T03:41:19.070" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing happens. The Exodus rule regarding raiders launching states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Launch Raiders or Activate Cylon Basestars:&lt;/strong&gt; When either of these icons&#xA;  is resolved, if there are no basestars on the main game board, place 1&#xA;  basestar on the Cylon Fleet game board, according to the placement&#xA;  rules below, and advance the Cylon pursuit marker one space on the&#xA;  Pursuit track&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding to the Cylon Fleet game board has an explicit condition which is not met in your example: &lt;em&gt;no basestars on the main game board&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12136" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T03:41:19.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6267" CreationDate="2015-03-18T10:42:09.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the same reason that you don't teach a 4th grader that the actual approach velocity of a train going 100 mph from Chicago to New York and a train going 120 mph from New York to Chicago is (v1 + v2)/(1 + v1v2/c^2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many situations where it's better to walk before you run. I've seen far too many beginning bridge players think that they have game or slam just because they have a long suit, only to go down 5 doubled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Patience, grasshopper. Patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12137" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T10:51:19.830" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T10:51:19.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2015-03-18T11:32:38.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We used to play Risk 2210 a lot, often with more than the recommended 5 players, and used the rule that if you are wiped out, when your turn comes around, you can start a rebellion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rebellions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take two cards and choose one of the shown territories to rebel in. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll 3d6. That many troops in the chosen territory are replaced with your troops. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are any enemy troops remaining in the territory, you must fight them, but if you win, you can continue your turn as normal. If you lose,  your rebellion failed but you can try again on your next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It leads to a more chaotic game but it's a LOT more fun that one or two people sitting around doing nothing for hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12138" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T11:32:38.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23445" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:22:26.653" Score="7" ViewCount="1243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Narset%2C%20Enlightened%20Master&quot;&gt;Narset, Enlightened Master&lt;/a&gt; and attack, exiling the top four cards of my library, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rout&quot;&gt;Rout&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382349&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;alt link&lt;/a&gt;). Rout's first ability states that I can cast it any time I could cast an instant by paying an additional {2}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've narrowed this down to two possible scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rout's first ability defines an alternative cost (like Bestow or Overload) and thus can't be paid as I'm already casting it using an alternative cost (&amp;quot;without paying its mana cost&amp;quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rout's first ability is an optional additional cost (like Kicker) and can be paid to allow me to cast the spell any time I could cast an instant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which, if either, of the above interpretations is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7888" LastEditorUserId="7888" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T15:13:39.347" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T15:13:39.347" Title="If I exile Rout with Narset's ability, when can it be cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23442" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:52:33.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is actually neither of those options. It isn't an alternate cost because it isn't worded like &lt;em&gt;&quot;You may [action] rather than pay [this object's] mana cost,&quot;&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;&quot;You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[117.9]&lt;/sup&gt; and it isn't an additional cost because it doesn't contain the word &lt;em&gt;&quot;additional&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[117.8]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it is is a cost increase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.8e&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects increase the cost to cast a spell or activate an ability without using the word &quot;additional.&quot; Those are not additional costs, and are not considered until determining the total cost of a spell or ability as described in rule 601.2e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And we can use the cost increase with Narset's alternate cost because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.9d&lt;/strong&gt; If an alternative cost is being paid to cast a spell, any additional costs, &lt;strong&gt;cost increases&lt;/strong&gt;, and cost reductions that affect that spell are applied to that alternative cost. (See rule 601.2e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T13:08:47.500" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T13:08:47.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23442" CreationDate="2015-03-18T12:55:10.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Comprehensive Rules 117.8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A cost is an additional cost only if it’s phrased using the word “additional.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, Rout's extra cost of {2} is not additional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further in 117.8e:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some effects increase the cost to cast a spell or activate an ability without using the word “additional.” Those are not additional costs, and are not considered until determining the total cost of a spell or ability as described in rule 601.2e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And 117.9d:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an alternative cost is being paid to cast a spell, any additional costs, cost increases, and cost reductions that affect that spell are applied to that alternative cost. (See rule 601.2e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, you are using an alternative mana cost of {0} due to Narset's ability, and you may increase this alternative cost by {2} to play Rout as an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T14:21:41.730" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:21:41.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23442" CreationDate="2015-03-18T13:10:54.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a cost increase, so you may use it in combination with Narset's alternative cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost to cast a spell or activate an ability is calculated as follows&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2e]&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;total cost to cast&lt;br&gt;&#xA;= mana cost or alternative cost&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;additional costs and other cost increases&lt;br&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cost reductions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rout's ability adds to the total cost, so it's a cost increase. It's not an additional cost since it doesn't use the word &amp;quot;additional&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.8]&lt;/sup&gt;, so it's just an generic cost increase&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. It's not an alternative cost since those replace the mana cost. Alternative costs usually include the phrase &amp;quot;rather than pay&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;without paying its mana cost&amp;quot;&lt;sup&gt;[CR 117.9]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the total cost to cast is {2}. (Alternative cost of free, plus a cost increase of {2}.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example of a cost increase: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thalia%2C%20Guardian%20of%20Thraben&quot;&gt;Thalia, Guardian of Thraben&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To my knowledge, there's nothing that distinguishes between additional costs and other cost increases. They're the same except in name.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2e [...] The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.8. Some spells and abilities have additional costs. An additional cost is a cost listed in a spell’s rules text, or applied to a spell or ability from another effect, that its controller must pay at the same time that player pays the spell’s mana cost or the ability’s activation cost. A cost is an additional cost only if it’s phrased using the word “additional.” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.9. Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or “You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T14:22:53.043" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T14:22:53.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23449" CreationDate="2015-03-18T15:33:22.067" Score="2" ViewCount="271" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just finished first chapter in mice and mystics. I had a quick clarification to make. &#xA;To be able to use the party item, is it okay to have that in the pack? Or are those cards not counted as item cards at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12139" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:41:18.630" Title="In Mice and mystics, Should party items be place in paw to use them?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23447" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23644" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:15:13.557" Score="3" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the The Enclave of Endlings environment deck how do you handle it when the Baahsto card is in play and is destroyed while it is being resolved. For example while a hero is resolving the effects of the card that was put in play it causes Baahsto to be destroyed due to chain AE damage happening. When this happens does the card still fully resolve and all hero's put the top card into play? Or does it stop at the point where it was destroyed? They way my group looks at the rule is the card needs to fully resolve and all hero's play the top card of the deck even if it was destroyed while it is happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baahsto (7 HP)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;At the end of the environment turn, put the top card of the villain deck into play.&#xA;Then, put the top card of each hero deck into play in turn order. If a limted card already in play would be put into play, discard that card instead.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:02:18.047" Title="Baahsto destroyed mid action" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23448" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23451" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:40:00.393" Score="4" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paragraph five of section 5.2 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_23jan2015_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; states the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players in the single-elimination rounds of a tournament offering only cash and/or unopened product as prizes may, with the permission of the Tournament Organizer, agree to split the prizes evenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ana Lucia and Nikki are paired in the finals of a single-elimination tournament. The winner receives four booster packs, and the loser receives one. Five booster packs cannot (objectively) be split evenly. Are Ana and Nikki forced to play out the round, or can they agree to split the prize unevenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume that the judge is willing to allow Ana and Nikki to split if and only if the split is legal. If the answer differs between RELs, please describe how the situation would be handled differently at each REL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:41:14.407" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:33:44.580" Title="Can players in single-elimination rounds agree to split prizes unevenly?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23446" CreationDate="2015-03-18T16:41:18.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those cards aren't counted against your pack limit at all.  You simply place the corresponding token in the party items area (the middle of the clock).  Page 18 states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Party items are items that can be used freely by any mouse in the&#xA;  party. When a mouse receives a party item, place the card near the&#xA;  story control board and place any marker or token that might be&#xA;  associated with that item in the party stash area of the story control&#xA;  board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T16:41:18.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23448" CreationDate="2015-03-18T17:10:44.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They would use this alternate way of ending the tournament (section 5.2 of the tournament rules):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players in the announced last round of the single-elimination portion of a tournament may agree to divide tournament prizes as they wish. In that case, one of the players at each table must agree to drop from the tournament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T20:33:44.580" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:33:44.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23448" CreationDate="2015-03-18T17:56:58.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are referencing the wrong part of the MTR for you question the relevant part is a few paragraphs above that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players are allowed to share prizes they have not yet received in the current tournament as they wish and may&#xA;  agree as such before or during their match, as long as any such sharing does not occur in exchange for any game&#xA;  or match result or the dropping of a player from the tournament. &lt;strong&gt;As an exception, players in the announced last&#xA;  round of the single-elimination portion of a tournament may agree to divide tournament prizes as they wish.&lt;/strong&gt; In&#xA;  that case, one of the players at each table must agree to drop from the tournament. Players are then awarded prizes&#xA;  according to their resulting ranking. &lt;sup&gt;[MTR 5.2]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what they are allowed to do is combine their prizes (4 + 1 in this case) and split them anyway they choose to, from 5-0 to 0-5 or anything in between. Then one of the 2 players drops from the tournament and they get their prizes and split them up as previously agreed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The portion you quote is intended more for when you are in single elimination brackets, but you haven't gotten to the final 2 yet. For example at an FNM after 4 rounds of Swiss and a cut to Top 8, it is 1am and everyone wants to go home to sleep, as long as all the players and the TO agree they can stop the tournament there and split all of the prizes that would go to the Top 8 spots evenly between all of them. The rules do not state what happens if the prize payout in this case is not evenly divisible by the number of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-18T18:09:23.837" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T18:09:23.837" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23453" CreationDate="2015-03-18T19:14:40.397" Score="1" ViewCount="2425" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play a game where the game play is much like hearts/spades/etc. Standard 52-card deck. Players play one card each &quot;trick&quot; and the highest card gets the trick. (Highest based on lead suit vs trump)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variant each player starts with 7 cards, and before the round begins, players must bid on the exact number of tricks the expect to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next round you start with 6 cards, etc. down to 1 card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played this game for a while and would like to look up the official scoring/rules, but cant remember the name of it.&#xA;Anyone know the name of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12144" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T05:33:59.587" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T05:33:59.587" Title="What is the name of the game where you bid for a hand in decreasing numbers?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23452" CreationDate="2015-03-18T20:57:28.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that game, it goes by many names but is often called &quot;Oh Hell!&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link for you: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T20:57:28.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3796" CreationDate="2015-03-18T22:30:56.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe there should be no special treatment for new players.  Life isn't fair, and Diplomacy is far &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; fair than real life.  That's how the Creator intended it :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way I see to prevent experienced players running roughshod over newbies is simply to never put them in the same games.  This idea works well for Chess, Go and Bridge, why should Diplomacy be different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If new and experienced players must be mixed, the newbies require training on the rules and, importantly, the spirit of the game, before their first play.  The rules of support, and to a lesser extent convoy, how to write orders correctly, and &lt;em&gt;why orders cannot ever be changed once they are revealed&lt;/em&gt; are major sources of confusion and frustration, and they warrant a training session to ensure that at least everyone understands the game they are playing.  This can take a few hours to do it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And even before they agree to play the game, I always give new players a standard disclaimer, that people can be very mean to each other in this game, even those who are your friends in real life, and if you're not OK with that, maybe you shouldn't play after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone who passes both of those initial barriers to entry deserves to be treated with all the respect due to a competent player - that is, with &lt;em&gt;no mercy whatsoever&lt;/em&gt;.  Surviving and thriving in a den of lions is what the game is all about, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to your particular concern, I'll say one thing more.  For every duo of experienced players that forms a Juggernaut alliance and bulldozes the newbies, there's a &quot;carebear&quot; player out there somewhere who &quot;teams up&quot; with the newbies, and promises to help them and never ever betray them (very seductive for many newbies), and basically ends up dictating their orders to them, turning newbies into zombie players.  These arrangements are utterly indistinguishable from a single player controlling two Powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played with such people.  I find players who coddle (zombify) newbies are harder to defeat than experienced Juggernauts, because at least you can sell an &quot;attack the cabal&quot; alliance a lot easier than you can sell a &quot;kill the newbies to drain the zombie master&quot; alliance.  Granting &lt;em&gt;preferred placement&lt;/em&gt; to a &quot;carebear&quot; / zombie master player is basically my worst nightmare in Diplomacy.  Please no!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12095" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T22:30:56.000" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11425" CreationDate="2015-03-18T23:04:27.507" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let the first eliminated player be the Judge for the remainder of the game - assuming you don't have a Judge already and the player understands the rules well enough.  The Judge can keep and enforce official time, adjudicate the orders, resolve disputes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once there are two or more eliminated players, start a second game.  Poker maybe.  Just overhearing the action can be sorta fun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Team play!  Eliminated players can serve as Ambassadors for remaining players and be hired or fired, or defect, at any time.  (Spy games!) Ambassadors may not submit orders.  As such, this is actually not a rule change or house rule, because nothing in the rules as they are prevents such a thing.  (Now if Ambassadors &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; submit orders, that's a whole other thing entirely, and would require very specific and clear house rules.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(For email games where seasons last multiple days)  Ratings Wars!  The &quot;Europa&quot; news magazine releases an issue twice a year, publicly (all players receive it).  Eliminated players become columnists, who receive adjudications, interview the remaining Powers and publish their columns in Europa each season.  No one is required to talk to columnists, and columnists are not required to interview players.  (Who needs &lt;em&gt;sources&lt;/em&gt;?)  If there are multiple columnists, each player may optionally cast votes (up to one vote per owned center) to the columnists in any combination they choose along with their seasonal orders.  Europa is then published alongside the adjudication.  Columnists have their own meta-game competing for votes.  This could affect the &quot;real&quot; game quite a bit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12095" LastActivityDate="2015-03-18T23:04:27.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23539" CreationDate="2015-03-18T23:18:12.967" Score="3" ViewCount="2737" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of the Infinite Squirrel Deck, and it looks as though it revolves around &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/card/tmp/222/earthcraft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Earthcraft&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/card/mh1/182/squirrel-nest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Squirrel Nest&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is this the only distinguishing feature of an Infinite Squirrel deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="2133" LastEditDate="2021-11-02T17:44:59.103" LastActivityDate="2021-11-02T17:44:59.103" Title="What is the Infinite Squirrel deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15310" CreationDate="2015-03-18T23:28:46.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Colorless is the best option unless you want to get pretty heavy into discard. My personal solution in my mono black commander is Argentum Armor, but it's in commander where time and mana are not issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12146" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T02:34:53.460" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T02:34:53.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2015-03-19T00:31:02.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote a Mathematica script to handle the dice rolling. It keeps track of all previous dice rolls, and weights the next dice roll probabilities according to the difference &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(expected # times rolled) - (actual # times rolled),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so that the actual distribution converges faster to the expected. (And dice rolls on different turns are not independent.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though with this method, people could predict things like &quot;a 7 just came up, so it probably won't come up for several more turns&quot;, so there's also an option to effectively ``increase randomness''. With probability p, the dice roll will actually just be random according to correct distribution for 2 dice, and with probability 1-p, the weighted history will be used to roll the dice. This makes it much harder to predict things while still making sure the distribution converges pretty quickly. You can of course still predict things like &quot;a 5 hasn't come up for a long time, so now it's due to come up&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/17770417/dice_roll_settlers_working.cdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link to Mathematica cdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Eventually I may end up writing it in python or javascript (the code to just roll the dice is quite simple), but for now I only have it in mathematica. You can use the cdf file with the free &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolfram.com/cdf-player/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wolfram CDF player&lt;/a&gt; though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S6vFn.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12147" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T00:31:02.473" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2015-03-19T15:18:04.943" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use Ultra-Pro. I've never had a problem with them. Been using them for about 5 months now. Now I don't like playing without them. It feels weird when the edges aren't stabbing me in the hand every few seconds. :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12150" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T15:18:04.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23193" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:22:42.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accessing Cards in a Remote Server&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you choose to access cards in a remote server, it works in a similar fashion. Once committed to accessing, the runner must access all cards in the remote server, however they are able to choose the order of access (and it should be apparent which card in the server has been advanced, as well as which card was placed in the server most recently, if applicable). For example, the Corporation is not allowed to shuffle the cards in the remote server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this. Once past the last piece of ice on a remote server, does the runner have to access cards in order for the run to be considered successful?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I was playing with Tennin Intitute last night (When your turn begins, you may place 1 advancement token on a card if the Runner did not make a successful run during his or her last turn.) and my buddy interpreted the card this way. I had a remote server with Project Junebug on it advanced twice with no ice, no upgrade. He played a card to expose it, so he knew it was there. He kept running on it, calling it a successful run, but chose not to access the card so he didn't hit the trap. I insisted that it wasn't a successful run if he was jacking out and not accessing the server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who was right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:22:42.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21316" CreationDate="2015-03-19T16:40:32.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't tried original Risk with more than 4 players, but there is an alternative that can more or less be played with 7 players, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/105134/risk-legacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Risk Legacy&quot;&gt;Risk Legacy&lt;/a&gt;. It is an official &quot;spinoff&quot; where the map changes and each faction is different and evolves a bit getting special and unique habilities. While it is initially for 5 players, without spoiling the fun let's say it gets more variety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of reviews out there (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.armchairgeneral.com/risk-legacy-boardgame-review.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;example of a nice one I read a while ago&quot;&gt;example of a nice one I read a while ago&lt;/a&gt;), so you can read about it and decide. I have it and really love the concept, keeps the basics of Risk but &quot;expands&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1265" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T16:40:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23464" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23466" CreationDate="2015-03-19T17:19:41.857" Score="5" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;This deals with Unhinged cards,  so competitive REL is useless here.  Imagine that I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleemax&quot;&gt;Gleemax&lt;/a&gt; on the field. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose all targets for all spells and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Somebody sitting next to me plays an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ass%20Whuppin%27&quot;&gt;Ass Whuppin&amp;#39;&lt;/a&gt; and tries to target my Gleemax. Can I choose the target for the Whuppin'?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy target silver-bordered permanent in any game you can see from your seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if we &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; have a Gleemax? Then what?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:20:17.057" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:20:17.057" Title="Gleemax interactions" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-joke-cards|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23464" CreationDate="2015-03-19T17:30:21.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say for simplicity that Gleemax only affects an Ass Whuppin' originating from your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is there isn't a true answer to the question as neither card works within the magic rules framework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ass Whuppin' bridges games temporarily, does that mean it goes onto the target games stack or the original games stack, or some version of both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gleemax doesn't explicitly restrict you from backing out of a spell cast and since paying costs is done after target selection it is trivial to just back out of a spell that is targeted like you don't like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Luckily both these problems are resolved by being silver bordered, the answer is &quot;do whatever everyone agrees to&quot;. Decide ahead of time how to resolve these kinds of situations and stick to it. Note I mean something general like using a judge or by democratic vote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T17:30:21.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23464" CreationDate="2015-03-19T17:30:45.240" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Real Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unhinged cards bend the rules. You and your friends should decide how to handle the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How I Would Settle It&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone in another game gives you an Ass Whuppin', there's nothing that Gleemax can do about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gleemax must to be referring to spells and abilities &lt;em&gt;in your current game&lt;/em&gt;. Otherwise, you would have to choose all targets for all spells and abilities for every game in the entire world. That's impossible to do in a timely manner. Also, by the time Ass Whuppin' crosses over between games, it's too late! It has already been cast, and the targets have already been chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple Gleemaxs follow timestamp rules. The controller of latest played Gleemax gets to choose all targets for spells and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-19T22:18:28.200" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T22:18:28.200" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23464" CreationDate="2015-03-19T17:49:41.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answers say do what ever your play group think is most fun. That being said I would say that if you control Gleemax and an Ass Whuppin' is being cast on a card in your game you get to choose the target of the Ass Whuppin'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on a few things that Mark Rosewater (Head Designer of Magic, and Silver Bordered Rules Manager) has said on his Tumblr. He has said that &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/47270520816/silver-bordered-rules-question-if-i-cast-ass&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;players in either the originating game or the targeted game can counter the Ass Whuppin'&lt;/a&gt; he has also said that &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/47338973079/broadswordandthebeast-asked-silver-bordered&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;if a player from the originating game counters it a player in the targeted game can counter the counter&lt;/a&gt;. From this we can gather that Ass Whuppin' can somehow merge the stacks of 2 separate games temporarily, because of this fact I see no reason for Gleemax to not effect spells on the stack in its game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for multiple Gleemaxes there are a few ways to rule it. One would be having the effects go by time stamp order, so whoever played the second one would end up choosing targets. You could have it act like a replacement effect (the wording isn't exactly right for it to be a replacement effect, but templating on Un-cards isn't the best anyway) in this case whoever casts the spell would decide what order to apply the redirection effects (probably applying theirs last and getting to choose their own targets) or there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/104418167313/im-not-sure-if-my-question-sent-due-to-phone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rosewater's method&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Here’s what I recommend. Active player goes first and removes a legal target. The other player then goes and removes a legal target. You keep going back and forth until only one legal target remains. That’s the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T17:49:41.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18717" CreationDate="2015-03-19T20:26:30.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;House rule that Rogue can use two swords changes it 100%. If you roll poorly on both swords that's +1, and +1.  If you have amazing luck and roll +2 and +2 on both swords it can go to level 4 &amp;amp; 5. My reasoning behind it is that Rogues normally can gain duel wield ability in classic games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12154" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T20:26:30.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8197" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:44:17.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, it's all about salesmanship.  In the early game, no Power can repel two determined and unmolested neighbors, and no two Powers can repel three determined and unmolested neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty much any other Power can be Turkey's initial ally, depending on what the other Powers are doing.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turkey + &lt;strong&gt;Austria&lt;/strong&gt; works if Russia and Germany are allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turkey + &lt;strong&gt;England&lt;/strong&gt; works if Russia is weak and can be eliminated quickly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turkey + &lt;strong&gt;Italy&lt;/strong&gt; works if Austria and France are allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turkey + &lt;strong&gt;France&lt;/strong&gt; works &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; Russia and Austria are allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turkey + &lt;strong&gt;Germany&lt;/strong&gt; works if Russia and England are allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while Turkey + &lt;strong&gt;Russia&lt;/strong&gt; is the &quot;Juggernaut&quot; it is not an invincible alliance.  Turkey is weak to Italian &lt;code&gt;F Ion -&amp;gt; Eas&lt;/code&gt; in Fall 1901 with an Italy + Austria alliance.  If this happens, it puts visible and obvious pressure on Turkey to turn northward for expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12095" LastActivityDate="2015-03-19T21:44:17.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23472" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:50:35.503" Score="0" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a nonbasic land that taps and gives me either a red or white mana if I only have red mana in my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12155" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T00:23:20.763" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T15:01:09.020" Title="Can I use a nonbasic land that taps and gives me either a red or white mana if I only have red mana in my deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23472" CreationDate="2015-03-19T21:55:38.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Yes, as long as you're not playing Commander&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In normal decks, you can use whatever (format legal) cards you want in any combination. You can play a Plains in an all Red deck if you really want to, though it's probably a bad idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Commander_%28format%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander&lt;/a&gt;, there is an additional rule that says that cards must match the color identity of the commander. This means that your cards can't have any mana symbols anywhere on them that don't match one of your commander's colors. In this case, if your commander isn't at least partially white, then you can't use a land that could tap for white mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T00:17:21.217" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T00:17:21.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23472" CreationDate="2015-03-19T23:57:52.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoting from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 15 (&amp;quot;Building Your Own Deck&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You build [your deck] using whichever &lt;strong&gt;Magic&lt;/strong&gt; cards you want. There are two rules: your deck must have at least 60 cards, and your deck can't have more than four copies of any single card (except for basic lands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This only applies to &amp;quot;Constructed&amp;quot; games - the &amp;quot;Limited&amp;quot; format follows slightly different rules; also certain tournament formats may restrict cards to only come from certain sets, and may also ban or restrict specific cards, as per &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151004123057/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/Magazine/Article.aspx?x=judge/resources/banned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the banned/restricted list&lt;/a&gt;. However, outside of the Commander format there are no rules preventing you from including multi-colour lands unless they are specifically in one of those lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do include one of those lands, there are a few things to note:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It does exactly what it says on it - so if it says &amp;quot;T: Add W or R to your mana pool&amp;quot;, then you may tap it to add &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; one white mana &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; one red mana to your mana pool. If your deck has no use for white mana, then you probably won't ever choose to do so, but there's nothing stopping you from doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The land is not a basic land of any type (unless some card specifies otherwise). So even if it produces W/R mana, it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a Plains &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; a Mountain (or an Island, Swamp or Forest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As stated above, since it is not a basic land you can not have more than four copies in your deck, or more than one copy if it is on the restricted list for the format you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-30T15:01:09.020" LastActivityDate="2022-06-30T15:01:09.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23477" CreationDate="2015-03-20T00:23:48.710" Score="7" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me give you a run down of the board state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elderscale%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Elderscale Wurm&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Canopy%20Cover&quot;&gt;Canopy Cover&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. Damage could not reduce my life total below 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forgestoker%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Forgestoker Dragon&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and a lot of other, smaller creatures. He could pay to kill any other creature that came out on the battlefield, but had no effects in his deck to deal with Elderscale Wurm nor Canopy Cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly I had no way to deal with his dragon, and if I attacked with my Elderscale Wurm it would die, and I would lose to his horde.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, I had one more card in my library than he did, so we assumed I would eventually win until we looked at the other two cards my opponent had on the battlefield- &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aether%20Rift&quot;&gt;Aether Rift&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Library%20of%20Leng&quot;&gt;Library of Leng&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aether Rift says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, discard a card at random. If you discard a creature card this way, return it from your graveyard to the battlefield unless any player pays 5 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Library of Leng says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artifact&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have no maximum hand size. If an effect causes you to discard a card, discard it, but you may put it on top of your library instead of into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent only had creatures in his hand. He wanted to use the interaction between these two cards to randomly discard a card, not pay 5 life,(I could not pay the 5 life cost because it would bring me below 7 life, negating Elderscale Wurm's effect) and have it go back to the top of his library, so that he would have 1 more card than I did, thus I would mill out before he did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that how this interaction works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12101" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T00:38:47.887" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:30:14.033" Title="How do Aether Rift and Library of Leng interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23475" CreationDate="2015-03-20T00:31:41.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it would work that way. The paying 5 life is actually irrelevant here, because if he chooses to put the card on top of his library, then the creature will fail to return &quot;from the graveyard to the battlefield&quot;, because it won't be in the graveyard. His library shouldn't ever shrink in fact; each turn he will discard a card, putting it on his library, then draw that same card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T00:31:41.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23475" CreationDate="2015-03-20T00:35:11.400" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;He would be able to put a card on top of his library in order to not lose, but not quite the way you are thinking it works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is a the beginning of your opponent's upkeep Aether Rift's ability goes on the stack, and when it resolves they discard a card at random. when the card gets discarded Library of Leng's replacement effect occurs allowing your opponent to put the card on top of their library. If they chose to put the card on top of their library the rest of Aether Rift's ability doesn't apply since as far as the game knows a creature card was never discarded (a card was discarded if anything else cares about that, but nothing is known about that card, including its type &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Discard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[CR 701.7c]&lt;/a&gt;). Your opponent will then draw the card they just &quot;discarded&quot; at the beginning of their draw step. They can keep repeating this process until you run out of cards in your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T16:30:14.033" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:30:14.033" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23393" CreationDate="2015-03-20T00:54:09.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;get the number of unit on the face being charged, see how many of the charging units front of base length fit in it then * that by the number of units being changed are open on that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if you have uneven formations you would need to keep the current shape of a unit in an object, then find all the lengths along the charged side and use some sort of packing algo to put the charging units along them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T00:54:09.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23479" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-20T10:58:24.147" Score="5" ViewCount="34350" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponents misses a compulsory jump that would capture one of your pieces and moves elsewhere &#xA;...do they forfeit that piece &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12157" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T17:35:32.723" Title="Do you forfeit that piece if you do not take a compulsory move?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23479" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:25:38.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is an optional rule called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huff_%28board_games%29&quot;&gt;Huffing Rule&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Capturing pieces is compulsory. It is both players responsibility to make sure that is enforced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:25:38.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:51:16.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Top score as far as I know is 293. &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Destinations: &#xA;&lt;br&gt;1. Vancouver-Santa Fe (13)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;2. Vancouver-Montreal (20)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;3. Seattle-Los Angeles (9)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;4. Seattle-New York (22)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;5. Portland-Phoenix (11)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;6. Portland-Nashville (17)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;7. San Francisco-Atlanta (17)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;8. Los Angeles-Chicago (16)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;9. Los Angeles-New York (21)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;10. Los Angeles-Miami (20)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;11. Chicago-Santa Fe (9)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;12. Chicago-New Orleans (7)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;13. New York-Atlanta (6) &#xA;&lt;br&gt;14. Boston-Miami (12)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;15. Montreal-Atlanta (9)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;16. Montreal-New Orleans (13)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Longest path (10)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Path:&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Vancouver&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Seattle (1)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Portland (1)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;San Francisco (10)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Los Angeles (4)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Phoenix (4)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Santa Fe (4)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Oklahoma City (4)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Little Rock (2) New Orleans (4)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Saint Louis (2) Nashville (2) Atlanta (1) Miami (10)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Chicago (2)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Pittsburgh (4)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;New York (2)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Boston (2)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Montreal (2)&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Destinations: 222&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Longest path: 10&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Trains: 61&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Total: 293&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Hopefully the breakdown is right, lots of numbers so maybe I made a typo, but the destinations and cities are all correct! &#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Tips: Get all the destinations ASAP, only skip a turn of claiming routes to claim Los Angeles-Phoenix, Oklahoma City-Little Rock and Chicago-Pittsburgh, as these are routes you need that will go first.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Happy travels!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12159" LastEditorUserId="12159" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T12:56:53.330" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:56:53.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23479" CreationDate="2015-03-20T12:54:08.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on the rules you're playing - there are &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draughts#National_and_regional_variants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;so many variants&lt;/a&gt;! In some variants, yes that would be the case (see the link).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's advisable to agree the rules with your opponent before you start, otherwise arguments can ensue with no real solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T12:54:08.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23483" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23486" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:18:24.167" Score="2" ViewCount="896" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is clear that when you capture another player's pyramid you gain the ability to use that pyramid and also the temporary victory point.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you willfully abandon the pyramid by moving the occupying troop, does the player who's city the pyramid resides in automatically gain control of the pyramid.  Do they automatically get the temporary victory point back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A more summary question might be:  Does a player who has a pyramid with no units on it in his home city automatically control the pyramid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T14:20:56.840" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:40:00.307" Title="Kemet: Controlling another Player's pyramid and Victory point" Tags="|kemet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23484" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:31:23.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Kemet, players each represent an Egyptian tribe and will use the mystical powers of the gods of ancient Egypt - along with their powerful armies - to score points in glorious battles or through invasion of rich territories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conquest for the land of Kemet takes place over two phases: Day and Night. During the day, choose an action amongst the nine possible choices provided by your player mat and perform it immediately. Once every player has taken five actions, night falls, with players gathering Prayer Points from their temples, drawing Divine Intervention cards, and determining the turn order before the start of the new day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the game progresses, they can use Prayer Points to enroll magical creatures and have them join their troops. In addition to intimidating enemies, these creatures provide special powers!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T19:59:50.400" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T19:59:50.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23485" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-20T14:31:23.603" Score="0" Body="In the Mythic age of Ancient Egypt, the powerful gods throw their troops into epic battles to demonstrate their power." OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T13:03:16.303" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T13:03:16.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23483" CreationDate="2015-03-20T16:40:00.307" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a player who has a pyramid with no units on it in his home city automatically controls the pyramid.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's some supporting threads from BGG.  Look at the second (italicized) line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From BGG &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1110151/kemet-supplementary-rules-chas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kemet Supplementary Rules&lt;/a&gt;&quot;&#xA;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pyramids:&lt;/strong&gt; A zero level pyramid means no pyramid is present. &lt;em&gt;You control any pyramid in your city that is unoccupied.&lt;/em&gt; You control any&#xA;  pyramid in an enemy city where you are in sole occupation, and may&#xA;  upgrade it (getting its temporary VP) and/or use it to buy tiles of&#xA;  that color and teleport from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also backed up by the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/969485/city-control-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;City Control Question&lt;/a&gt;&quot; thread.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T16:40:00.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25211" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:05:04.477" Score="0" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regarding the Creatures in troops:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May a troop with a creature have its creature replaced with a creature not currently on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T22:20:00.453" Title="Swapping Creatures in Troops" Tags="|kemet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25210" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:10:34.337" Score="0" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the Initiative power tile (which destroys two units pre-battle) combined with the Crusade power tile (which gives Ankhs per units destroyed in battle):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the attacking player get ankhs for the units destroyed 'pre battle'?&#xA;If the is no battle because the defender had two units or less, does the attacker get any Ankhs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mystery here is that the escape DI card cancels a battle, but also works for initiative, which seems to indicate that units killed by initiative are in some sort of odd edge-case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="4940" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T17:16:29.640" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T22:07:15.067" Title="Power Tile Combo: Initiative combined with Crusade" Tags="|kemet|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25209" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:13:30.577" Score="1" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the 'Initiative' power tile (which destroys two units pre-battle)  against a [foolish or unfortunate] opponent who has only two units:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a victory point scored?&#xA;Is movement interrupted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T12:04:20.127" Title="Power Tile Effect: Initiative and Movement/Victory" Tags="|kemet|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23492" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:37:34.913" Score="1" ViewCount="1811" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a 5 color deck and  I was wondering how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necropotence&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Unlife&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt; interact in certain circumstances. I understand that once my life becomes 0 or less I cannot pay life to draw cards, but if I were to have 1 life left, would I only be able to pay one life or would I be able to pay  more than that and draw more cards dropping my life total into the negatives, like an attack when you have 1 life left for 5 damage would leave you with -4 life and 0 poison counters. The way I currently see it is I would only be able to pay 1 life exile a card then my life total is 0 and I can no longer exile anymore cards. Normally in this deck I'd be using Necropotence with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=215079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Venser's Journal&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elixir%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;,but I was wondering if Necropotence might benefit from Phyrexian Unlife as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also somewhat of an aside to this question but I also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=198372&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Death's Shadow&lt;/a&gt; in this deck, am I correct in assuming that if my life total is -4 death's shadow would get +4/+4 making it a 17/17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12161" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T17:48:31.473" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T17:59:53.130" Title="Phyrexian Unlife and Necropotence" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23217" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:58:26.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE: I am stupid and misread your diagram as komoko (3-4) instead of hoshi (4-4) in the corner. &lt;em&gt;The following applies to komoku only!&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; I was going to delete this answer, but then decided to leave it up, because the question would probably be interesting for komoku, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;W4 is actually joseki, but it is very, very rarely played. I have never witnessed it in high level matches, and I would not at all be surprised if dan players do not know it (the opposite, rather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I learned it in a book by Yilun Yang (Whole Board Thinking in Joseki). Basically, it is a move that moves white out very steadily (i.e. slowly). Sadly, I do not have the book with me for an extended period of time, but maybe someone else can jump in an add a more detailed explanation of the move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way you don't have to worry about it, really - if your opponent plays W4, deal with it as you would anyway (remember that a non-joseki move can be good sometimes, and also that a joseki move can be bad sometimes, too). If you feel that W4 is a good move on a certain board, don't be afraid to try and play it. You'll see how it turns out!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-03-20T18:03:35.320" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T18:03:35.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23490" CreationDate="2015-03-20T17:59:53.130" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I you are at 1 life you can only activate Necropotence once, this is because paying the life is a cost and that happens when you activate the ability, before anyone gets priority again &lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;[601.2]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;. So by the time you have the ability to activate it a second time you are already at 0 life, and thus unable to pay more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Death's Shadow it does indeed get +X/+X when you are at negative life totals. From the Gatherer rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your life total is less than 0 and an effect (such as the one from an opponent's Abyssal Persecutor) is keeping you from losing the game, Death's Shadow's ability will actually increase its power and toughness. For example, if your life total is -2, Death's Shadow gets +2/+2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-20T17:59:53.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23498" CreationDate="2015-03-21T09:00:10.253" Score="0" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a few questions below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do we play the character card to the center of the table (stacking on previous character)? or we place in front of us?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) I also understand from the rules that the assassinated character suppose to act stupid upon their character is called. Question here is, at the end of the round, does the king have to verify who are the assassinated character is? or it's like poker where u can return the card without revealing yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Can we purposely skip our character (act like it's assassinated to avoid tax collector)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) When the last character is called and someone still holding non-assassinated character, how should we deal with such situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for clearing my doubts :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6410" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T09:12:45.203" Title="Proper way to play character cards?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23494" CreationDate="2015-03-21T14:00:00.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/support/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; explicitly state [italics mine]: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the name of your character card is called, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; reveal your character card, place it face up in front of you, and take your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your character has been assassinated, you say nothing and do not acknowledge that you have been assassinated in any way. It will be obvious by the round's end, however, that you did not play a turn and that you were the assassinated character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the most sensible interpretation of the above rules, it follows that it would be considered cheating to pretend that your character was assassinated when it in fact was not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since every character is called in numeric order, there shouldn't be any unplayed characters left in anyone's hands at the end of the round, except of course for the assassinated character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="8448" LastEditDate="2015-03-21T15:47:39.787" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T15:47:39.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-21T14:59:05.193" Score="6" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;We inherited board games from my husbands grandmother who died in the 1980s.  Among them is a practically brand new (doesnt look used) board game called Finance.  The instruction booklet says copyright 1932. Some googling reveals that this was a precursor to Monopoly and was bought out by Parker Brothers a few yearslater. Do people collect old board games? Would this have some value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12167" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:41:30.310" Title="1932 Finance board game" Tags="|identify-this-game|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23497" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23508" CreationDate="2015-03-21T23:48:05.007" Score="6" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;The clerk at the game shop assured me I could play Hinterlands Dominion by itself. Alas, everywhere online claims a standalone version of Dominion is required. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anyway to play Hinterland Dominion by itself? Or will I need to seek restitution from the clerk?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12172" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T14:52:18.837" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:54:28.913" Title="Can I play Dominion: Hinterlands by itself?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-hinterlands|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23494" CreationDate="2015-03-21T23:57:35.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter, you are revealing the card to let everyone know it is now your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say that the assassinated character plays stupid they just don't get a turn. And at the end of the round you know who everyone is so there is no reason whatsoever to try and hide it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No you can't skip your turn your turn to avoid the negative effects of another character. That is just straight up cheating &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the name of your character card is called, you must reveal your character card, place it face up in front of you, and take your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you found that someone cheated and did not play then depending on if they where the last one that was supposed to play or not you either make them play (if they where the last ones to play) and make any negative effects that they where trying to avoid happen (such as losing all their money) and if its still a problem them make them lose the game and start the next round with one less player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-03-21T23:57:35.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14195" CreationDate="2015-03-22T00:00:30.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you know the rules and what the tiles do it speeds up considerably.  With 3+ players every person should easily have an idea of what they plan on doing for their move before their turn comes up. As soon as it is their turn they should have their shit on the table.  It only takes longer because the group is playing casually and not paying much attention.  Which is not a bad thing, mind you-- it's why we get together to play games with friends in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our first few games drug on for hours because of constant rule-checking and needing to read over each and every tile to know what each upgrade actually did.  Once you know things by heart and by name it cuts the time down by half at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12173" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T00:00:30.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23497" CreationDate="2015-03-22T00:27:43.743" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the clerk was wrong and you cannot play Hinterlands with just what comes in that box. You will need  what are referred to as the Base Cards in order to play. These come with the original Dominion, they also come with Dominion: Intrigue (perhaps your clerk confused Hinterlands and Intrigue), or they can be purchased on their own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T00:27:43.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23501" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23503" CreationDate="2015-03-22T00:34:32.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1326" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, can every character use one of their pawns to do 3 'gathering' actions in a round? All three actions would require dice rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5126" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T09:34:30.367" Title="In Robinson Crusoe, Can I do single-pawn actions multiple times on the same card?" Tags="|robinson-crusoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23536" CreationDate="2015-03-22T01:44:12.367" Score="10" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be a silly question—but, is it illegal for one to enter a Go (or Chess, for that matter) tournament with a notebook in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12175" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T14:10:23.460" Title="Is one allowed to play Go with a notebook?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23501" CreationDate="2015-03-22T09:11:06.417" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Robinson.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rulebook&lt;/a&gt;: (p.6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each Action&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;can be taken multiple times in the same round&lt;/strong&gt;,&#xA;except for the Threat Action, which is always a one time Action taken&#xA;on a specific card, after which the card is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only restrictions regarding &amp;quot;Gathering resources&amp;quot; are (p.9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This [Gathering] Action &lt;strong&gt;cannot be taken&lt;/strong&gt; directly on the Island &lt;strong&gt;tile with the&#xA;players’ Camp&lt;/strong&gt; since players get resources from that tile during the&#xA;Production phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can &lt;strong&gt;gather&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;only once per round from each source&lt;/strong&gt;; i.e. if one&#xA;player assigns his pawn(s) to gather from one source, no other player&#xA;can gather from that same source this round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addtionally, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/84727/faq-robinson&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ 1.0&lt;/a&gt; (made by Ignacy Trzewiczek himself) (p.10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If I put one of my pawns on any Action, will the second pawn placed&#xA;there automatically support me? Or could we, for example, place 3&#xA;single pawns on the Weapons track, to build 3 Weapons (and roll the&#xA;dice three times)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's your choice if you want to treat each pawn&#xA;separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-22T09:34:30.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-22T17:09:25.643" Score="1" ViewCount="2516" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Dixit Odyssey standalone base game and was wondering which expansions would best match up. I want to keep the expansion by the same artist (So not Journey). I also want the cards as abstract as possible. I do not want to purchase the original Dixit as I have forked out extra money for the Odyssey base game, I just want the best expansion. Any advice would be hugely helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12179" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T14:31:15.073" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:04:22.407" Title="I bought the Dixit Odyssey standalone game and was wondering which expansions would best match up" Tags="|dixit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23528" CreationDate="2015-03-22T19:41:12.170" Score="4" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Flute_of_the_Outer_Gods&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Flute of the Outer Gods&lt;/a&gt; says the following (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Phase:&lt;/strong&gt; Lose 3 Sanity and 3 Stamina and discard Flute of the Outer Gods before making a Combat check to defeat all monsters &lt;strong&gt;in your current area&lt;/strong&gt;. This does not affect Ancient Ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another answer on this site &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/3549/3389&quot;&gt;about the Flute&lt;/a&gt; states that it can be used at either a location or a street. However, there are other locations that monsters can be, such as the Outskirts and The Sky, but you can't attack those so it's moot about whether you can be used there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about monsters that are in a location where you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; attack them, but are not &quot;on the board&quot;? For instance, there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/The_Terrible_Experiment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Terrible Experiment&lt;/a&gt; rumor that says the following (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When this card enters play, place 5 monsters from the cup on it. Any player may choose to fight one or more of these monsters while in the Miskatonic U. streets during the Arkham Encounter Phase. If defeated, they are claimed as monster trophies. These monsters do not move, &lt;strong&gt;are not considered on the board&lt;/strong&gt;, and do not count against the monster limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they in &quot;your current area&quot; despite not being on the board? Can you attack one of these monsters, pass a Horror check, then instead of a Combat check use the Flute of the Outer Gods to destroy all of the monsters? This came up in our last game and we weren't sure how to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T02:52:21.610" Title="Can Flute of the Outer Gods be used for monsters &quot;not on the board&quot; like in The Terrible Experiment?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23497" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:05:10.433" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the clerk was mistaken. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/games.html?id=396&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rio Grande Games' website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dominion: Hinterlands is an expansion, and cannot be played by itself; to play with it, you need Dominion, or a standalone expansion to Dominion (e.g., Dominion: Intrigue). Those provide the Basic cards you need to play (Treasure, Victory, and Curse cards), as well as the full rules for setup and gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/278-Dominion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;original Dominion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/306-Dominion-Intrigue&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion: Intrigue&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/Game/419-Dominion-Base-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dominion: Base Cards&lt;/a&gt; (for the base cards) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=348&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;download the game rules&lt;/a&gt; from their website&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;NB: Rio Grande Games' website says that the base cards are coming soon, but the set has actually been out since 2012&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ask for a refund&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But in an alternate universe, it might have been a standalone…&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2013/06/24/the-secret-history-of-dominion/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Secret History of Dominion&lt;/a&gt;, written by Dominion creator Donald X. Vaccarino, mentions that during the development of Hinterlands, they considered making it a standalone game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hinterlands flirted with being a standalone. Intrigue was a standalone; Seaside had playmats and tokens; Prosperity had playmats and tokens.  Hinterlands and Dark Ages had no playmats or tokens. Would they just be slightly cheaper? Would what the price would have to be look attractive? That had been an issue before. I figured hey, one of the sets could be a standalone, let’s say Hinterlands, and the other could be a full 500 cards – no playmats, not a standalone, just gigantic. I had two solutions that let the sets be 500 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There were certain pros and cons to having Hinterlands be a standalone. In the end Jay decided against it. For a while I was trying to make the set simpler though, to make it function better as a standalone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:54:28.913" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T18:54:28.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23509" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:27:00.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quoridor&lt;/em&gt; is An abstract strategy game where players compete to advance their pawn to the opposite end of the board. It was first published by Gigamic in 1997.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T00:10:35.863" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T00:10:35.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23510" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:27:00.873" Score="0" Body="An abstract strategy game where players compete to advance their pawn to the opposite end of the board." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T00:09:55.620" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T00:09:55.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23511" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:35:44.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pirate King&lt;/em&gt; is game where players smuggle cargo and capture territories to compete to become the Pirate King. It was first published in 2006 by Temple Games, Inc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:54:05.113" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:54:05.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23512" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:35:44.887" Score="0" Body="A game where players smuggle cargo and capture territories to compete to become the Pirate King." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:54:11.063" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:54:11.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23513" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:42:52.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Little Dungeon: Turtle Rock&lt;/em&gt; is a dungeon crawling card game designed to be playable by young children as well as adults. It was published by Little Dungeon, Inc. in 2014 after a successful Kickstarter drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:34.930" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23514" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-22T20:42:52.077" Score="0" Body="A dungeon crawling card game designed to be playable by young children as well as adults" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:38.343" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:38.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23515" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23516" CreationDate="2015-03-22T23:38:27.417" Score="0" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;(I'm hoping that a question about a utility related to Magic: The Gathering is on topic here, otherwise I apologize.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to organize my collection using the open source Magic Assistant program. Since much of my collection is already built into decks, I've created a number of them and added cards from the database. The remainder of my collection has been added into my &quot;main&quot; collection area, so every card I physically own is accounted for exactly once. Now, I want to break down a few of those decks and use the cards elsewhere, but I don't want to lose the card lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like I want to use something called a &quot;virtual deck&quot; here, but I'm not sure exactly how these work. I have figured out how to build a virtual deck from scratch, and later &quot;materialize&quot; it into a real deck. This moves the cards from &quot;main&quot; collection into the deck and converts it to a physical one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I can't figure out is how to go the other way and &quot;dematerialize&quot; a deck. I have a physical deck, and I want to move all the cards back into the &quot;main&quot; collection, but I don't want to lose the deck list. So far, everything I've tried has resulting in either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card disappearing from the deck and moving back into my &quot;main&quot;, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An extra copy of the card ending up in my collection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that's supported by Magic Assistant? If not, is there any way to do it manually, other than moving all the cards out and re-creating the virtual deck from scratch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5132" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T00:44:34.437" Title="How to &quot;dematerialize&quot; a deck in the Magic Assistant card manager?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23515" CreationDate="2015-03-23T00:44:34.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you can accomplish this by doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open up the deck you want to convert.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Select the entire list of cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Right click and click Edit Card...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the Ownership dropdown to &quot;Virtual&quot; and click OK.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy the list of cards, and paste into the main collection.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will result in each card appearing as physically owned in the collection and virtually owned in the deck. If you do this, you may want to also modify the deck's properties to make it Virtual so that cards you add to it in the future will be virtual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T00:44:34.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3326" CreationDate="2015-03-23T01:33:29.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answer #1 - Yes, any brown cards played by neighboring players count toward earning coins this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer #2 - This question is unanswered and not clarified by the official rules. You can only change the action you intended for the card you selected if you can't perform the action you intended for it. In your case, since you can't build the structure as you intended, you can choose between building the next stage of your Wonder or Discarding it for three coins. You cannot change your mind &amp;amp; apply a different action to that card by choice, reason being that a player could change his intended action in response to a card played by his neighboring players. This problem can be avoided by having each player verbally declare what action they intend for their chosen card before the cards are simultaneously turned face up, then turn them face up and apply those assigned actions accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer #3 - No, you cannot count your neighboring players newly acquired resource this turn toward the construction of your chosen card. This question is answered in the FAQ section on the official website of the game developers here, &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12180" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T01:33:29.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23518" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:29:15.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bacchus' Banquet&lt;/em&gt; is a Roman-themed card game where guests at an opulent party compete to complete their objectives. It was first published by Mayfair Games in 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:43.483" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:43.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23519" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:29:15.447" Score="0" Body="A Roman-themed card game where guests at an opulent party compete to complete their objectives." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:47.277" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:47.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23520" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:33:24.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Destruct 3&lt;/em&gt; is a party game where one player builds a tower while others attempt to knock it down in one of three ways. It was first published by Uncle Skunkle Toys in 2004.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:41.193" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:41.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23521" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:33:24.020" Score="0" Body="A party game where one player builds a tower while others attempt to knock it down in one of three ways." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:16.547" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:16.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23522" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:36:26.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Don't Break the Ice&lt;/em&gt; is a children's game where players take turns using mallets to knock pieces of ice away from the playing field. It was first published in 1965 by Milton Bradley and later by Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:56.583" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:56.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23523" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:36:26.033" Score="0" Body="A children's game where players take turns using mallets to knock pieces of ice away from the playing field." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:51.327" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:51.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23524" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:47:28.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Friday&lt;/em&gt; is a solo deck-building game where Friday must help Robinson Crusoe survive the island and defeat pirates. The English version was published in 2011 by Rio Grande Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamefamily/9766/freitag-project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Freitag-Project&lt;/a&gt;, a collection of games designed exclusively on Fridays and often featuring the weekday or other things that share the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:32.790" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:32.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23525" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:47:28.433" Score="0" Body="A solo deck-building game where Friday must help Robinson Crusoe survive the island and defeat pirates." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:19.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:19.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23526" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:51:08.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Great Dalmuti&lt;/em&gt; is a card game where players compete in a hierarchy by going out of cards before other players. The English edition was first published in 1995 by Wizards of the Coast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:27.083" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:27.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23527" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:51:08.860" Score="0" Body="A card game where players compete in a hierarchy by going out of cards before other players." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T12:53:21.900" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:53:21.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23507" CreationDate="2015-03-23T02:52:21.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I'd be tempted to allow this as it would be a very cool thing to do and it is hard to find a good use for the Flute of the Outer Gods, this question is addressed directly in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, pg 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Do cards that affect monsters at Miskatonic University&#xA;  (such as the “Campus Security Increased” Mythos card or&#xA;  the “Flute of the Outer Gods” Unique Item) affect monsters&#xA;  spawned by “The Terrible Experiment”?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; No. Those monsters are not actually on the board; they&#xA;  can only be fought as if they were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T02:52:21.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23529" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-03-23T03:01:42.787" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shogun&lt;/em&gt; is a board game set in the Japanese Sengoku or “Warring States” Period where players compete to become Shogun. It was published in 2006 by Queen Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/221/ikusa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ikusa&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, which was formerly called &lt;em&gt;Shogun&lt;/em&gt; while published by Milton Bradley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T13:02:58.837" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T13:02:58.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23530" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-03-23T03:01:42.787" Score="0" Body="A board game set in the Japanese Sengoku or “Warring States” Period where players compete to become Shogun." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T13:03:03.503" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T13:03:03.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23537" CreationDate="2015-03-23T05:00:42.387" Score="2" ViewCount="4691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have three card clarifications that came up while playing games last night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treasure card &quot;Proton Gem&quot;:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may add this card to your spell face up. It counts as a Wild Magic card but is not discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpretation 1: Spells are crafted before a round starts. The player places the treasure in place of either a source, quality or delivery card. When the player's spell is revealed the treasure is placed aside and the wild card action takes place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuttal: The treasure says the player can add it to the spell, but does not specify when.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpretation 2: A player composes its spell then when revealed the player adds the treasure to its spell and goes through the wild card action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebuttal: Spells are composed before a round so the treasure can't be added whenever the player wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Delivery card &quot;Nuke-U-Lur Meltdown&quot;:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 damage, and 1 damage to each player adjacent to that foe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpretation 1: The caster is considered a player. If the caster is also adjacent to the target for the caster will take 1 splash damage.&#xA;Interpretation 2: The intent of the card would not be to have it damage the caster even if the caster is adjacent to the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Source card &quot;Professor Presto's&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you played a Wild Magic card as part of your spell, gain a treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpretation 1: The action of drawing a treasure triggers once even if the player composes its spell with more than one wild magic card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpretation 2: The action of drawing a treasure triggers once for each wild magic card in the player's spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12182" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T09:41:35.900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T09:41:35.900" Title="Epic Spell Wars rules clarifications" Tags="|epic-spell-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23506" CreationDate="2015-03-23T08:13:45.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it comes to the differences between various Dixit games, I'm hoping you've already read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12557/differences-between-dixit-versions&quot;&gt;this question (and its answers)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to answer your question, I'm not sure there are really that many choices to make. Dixit 1, 2 and 3 are meant to provide similar experiences but with different cards, so there's no real difference there in terms of abstraction or complexity. They are each equally apart from the Oddyssey game. And maybe I haven't noticed the way to do it, but once the cards are shuffled together, you can't really tell the decks apart. (truth be told, I haven't really tried it. The more cards, the merrier)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real choice is between those three expansions, and Journey. Sadly I haven't played Journey but I've read it feels similar to Odyssey (so I'm guessing less abstract, but that's speculation on my part).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some people advise you to look at the cards of each expansion so you can decide which one to purchase. To me that always felt like spoiling on the fun. I've never browsed through the decks, not even once, and on very rare occasions I still get cards in my hand that I thought I'd never seen before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:04:22.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23533" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T09:09:35.243" Score="0" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been searching high and low for this: say a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=High%20Priest%20of%20Penance&quot;&gt;High Priest of Penance&lt;/a&gt; (with an indestructible aura) blocks a creature with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt;, i.e. trample. Can I stop the trample effect by destroying either the creature or the enchantment, before trample happens? Since it &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt; assigns damage to the priest who then can destroy a permanent...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample &lt;strong&gt;first&lt;/strong&gt; assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12184" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T13:50:31.707" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T13:50:31.707" Title="Aura Trample removed by High Priest of Penance" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23494" CreationDate="2015-03-23T10:18:07.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good answers have been provided for your last three questions, but I feel there's more to be said about your first question. &lt;s&gt;There's no rule on where you place your cards, but&lt;/s&gt; there are certainly reasons to keep the card in front of you instead of stacking it at the center of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your character has an extra action in another character's turn (Witch, Thief, Tax Collector) the card in front of you can serve as a reminder of that action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're the King or Emperor, and the Queen is in play, your card can help in identifying whether or not the Queen gets her 3 gold bonus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're the Bishop, your card will identify to the Warlord that he can't target your districts with his ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do all these things without keeping the cards in front of you, but I find it a lot easier to just collect them at the end of the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T09:12:45.203" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T09:12:45.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23533" CreationDate="2015-03-23T12:08:56.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't stop your opponent from trampling over your High Priest this way. Although you are correct that trample damage is not &lt;em&gt;assigned&lt;/em&gt; simultaneously between creatures and players, it is &lt;em&gt;dealt&lt;/em&gt; simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2 Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both you and your High Priest are dealt damage at the same time. At that point, you may use your Priest's ability, but destroying the attacking creature or aura will have no effect on what already happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:08:56.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23502" CreationDate="2015-03-23T12:38:12.270" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only answer the Go perspective. I hear it is pretty much banned in chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paper notebooks, or preferable kifus, are always allowed. If is not uncommon for tournament directors to supply players with kifus for free or cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've often seen people use electronic notebooks in Go tournaments to record their matches. However, this is usually accompanied by asking the opponent beforehand for permission (it would simply be rude not to ask). To my knowledge, this is almost always approved, in particular when the display is visible to both players during interaction. Similarly, there is not usually a problem in photographing the board. There have been no real incidents with people cheating yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never seen it in high level matches, probably simply because anyone beyond low dan level can memorize their matches to a high degree anyway. I usually record my matches after they finished, and possibly take a photo if a strange move happens which is difficult to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Go, the tournaments with large price money are exclusive to few top players, and Go bots are not able to compete with them, so there is no incentive to use them. This may slowly change in the next several years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T12:38:12.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23531" CreationDate="2015-03-23T13:20:32.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You may add this card to your spell face up. It counts as a Wild Magic card but is not discarded.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x31;. Everyone with whom I've played has intuitively understood it's added add the same time as the other parts. It should be part of the spell on reveal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;3 damage, and 1 damage to each player adjacent to that foe.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x31;. There's no reason to believe the caster can't be damaged by this spell. This is hardly the only spell with a drawback.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If you played a Wild Magic card as part of your spell, gain a treasure.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x31;. Standard board game language. It's not &quot;For each Wild Magic played card as part of your spell, gain a treasure.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T13:20:32.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23502" CreationDate="2015-03-23T14:10:23.460" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The world chess organisation, FIDE, publishes the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fide.com/fide/handbook.html?id=171&amp;amp;view=article&quot;&gt;Laws of Chess&lt;/a&gt;, which are used in tournaments world wide. Only the American USCF uses its own rules, but they'll be very similar on this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recording the moves played is &lt;em&gt;mandatory&lt;/em&gt;, except in some situations where there is very little time (blitz games, or when you have only a few minutes until the end of the game). The record is used to check if time controls (like &quot;40 moves in two hours&quot;) are made, to help with disputes, and for claims like a draw claim based on threefold repetition of a positions. Tournaments will provide score sheets, or players bring a booklet of score sheets themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, &lt;em&gt;taking and making use of any notes is illegal&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;11.3.a: During play the players are forbidden to use any notes, sources of information or advice, or analyse any game on another chessboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't take any notes prepared beforehand with you, but you also can't make notes during the game. Beginners are often taught to write down their move before playing it so they can do a last blunder check, but that's an illegal use of notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any electronics and phones are banned from venues (I don't know exactly how far Go programs have come, but chess programs on smartphones play at world class level). However, there is a device called the &quot;MonRoi Personal Chess Manager&quot; which is, as far as I know, allowed by the USCF. But not by FIDE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T14:10:23.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23456" CreationDate="2015-03-23T14:57:38.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your assessment is correct.  The infinite squirrel deck revolves around the two card combo.  This leaves 52 cards of the deck open to design choices.  Consequently, there's a huge variety of infinite squirrel decks.  This variety is greatly affected by the local meta game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T20:11:12.833" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T20:11:12.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23540" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:37:32.870" Score="0" ViewCount="1551" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I purchase the Settlers of Catan 5-6 Expansion, is there a playable version of the game for only 4 people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12186" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T17:35:31.500" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T17:35:31.500" Title="Settlers Of Catan 5-6 Expansion" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-03-24T14:04:19.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23540" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:51:42.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can always just use the base game and leave out the pieces from the 5-6 player expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the 5-6 player expansion is just that: an expansion. It requires the original game in order to play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T18:55:25.270" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T18:55:25.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23542" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23543" CreationDate="2015-03-23T15:57:18.577" Score="3" ViewCount="333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laquatus%20Champion&quot;&gt;Laquatus Champion&lt;/a&gt; who entered the battlefield while there was a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torpor%20Orb&quot;&gt;Torpor Orb&lt;/a&gt; on the field (and thus it's first ability didn't trigger). What happens when it then leaves the battlefield ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second ability reads &amp;quot;When Laquatus's Champion leaves the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;that player&lt;/strong&gt; gains 6 life.&amp;quot; But which player gains life is chosen in the first ability (in this case it never happened).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is the ability doesn't trigger/can't resolve and nobody gains life, but I'm not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS : a similar situation may happen if all players have shroud when the Champion comes into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T16:08:43.987" Title="Laquatus's Champion and Torpor orb" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23542" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:08:43.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that nothing will happen. The Champion's abilities are what are called Linked Abilities, and the second one depends on choices made from the first one. Since nothing was targeted by the first ability there is nothing for the second one to reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fiend%20Hunter&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; since the first ability didn't exile anything there is nothing for it to return when it leaves the battlefield, the Champion works the same way but with life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;607.1.&lt;/strong&gt; An object may have two abilities printed on it such that one of them causes actions to be taken or objects or players to be affected and the other one directly refers to those actions, objects, or players. If so, these two abilities are linked: the second refers only to actions that were taken or objects or players that were affected by the first, and not by any other ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T16:08:43.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23540" CreationDate="2015-03-23T16:54:49.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 5-6 player expansion adds new hexes, ports, number chits and development cards to allow your board to fit 5 or 6 players. While you could play 3 or 4 players on the 5-6 player board, it would not be the same experience, you will find every one is too spread out and most players can expand unopposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the additional pieces mixed in with your base set may throw off the balance of the game. So it's recommended to remove them when playing a 3 or 4 player game. I don't remember the exact mix, but I believe the expansion adds the following &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 hexes of each basic type (forest/plains/mountains/fields/hills)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 desert hex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 sheep port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 3:1 port&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 soldier cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 year of plenty card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 monopoly card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 road building card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;number chits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 extra resources of each type. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra resources rarely becomes an issue in smaller games. It's probably safe to leave them in, and there's no harm and using one of the expansion sets of player pieces in place of one of the basic ones. But the rest of the items can definitely throw off the balance of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8376" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T16:54:49.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23545" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27052" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:19:13.700" Score="3" ViewCount="964" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this item came up last night while we were playing. I'll give you our answer, but I want to see what everyone else's thoughts are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One player was playing as Abu Simbel, and their neighbor had the Courtesan's Guild in hand. They asked whether they could &quot;use&quot; an &quot;Entombed&quot; Leader, or what would happen if they used a Leader that was later &quot;Entombed.&quot; We decided that they couldn't use one that had already been entombed, but if they used one that was later entombed, they would not lose the benefits.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this seem appropriate, or should we have gone a different route?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12020" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T00:23:15.480" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T17:33:18.990" Title="Abu Simbel and Courtesan's Guild" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23547" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:28:35.727" Score="4" ViewCount="1906" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cast a card with megamorph and state &quot;I'll pay {3} and morph this.&quot; Is this particular method of communication for casting a face-down creature legal? The reason I ask is because morph and megamorph mean different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I control a face down creature with megamorph, and my opponent asks if it was morphed or megamorphed, am I obligated to respond? If I'm not obligated to respond, but I choose to do so, am I obligated to respond truthfully?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that I have to distinguish between manifests and morphs. I'm just not sure if I have to distinguish between morphs and megamorphs. Nearly all of my opponents at my Dragons of Tarkir prerelease events just said &quot;Morph this guy.&quot; and it turned out to be a megamorph (surprise!). Given the non-existence of regular morph cards in Dragons of Tarkir, I decided to not ask a judge because I knew they were really all megamorphs. I want to know in case I run into this later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:06:28.420" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:06:28.420" Title="Am I obligated to distinguish between morphs and megamorphs when I'm casting a card face-down?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23546" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:40:00.987" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you make it clear that you are casting the card as a 2/2 face-down creature with no text, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost, it doesn't matter what you say. The comprehensive rules aren't specific about what you can legally &lt;em&gt;say&lt;/em&gt;, and the tournament rules only say that everyone has to be clear about what's going on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast a Megamorph creature, you are casting it as a Morph creature, so there is no need to distinguish. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/dragons-tarkir-release-notes-2015-03-18&quot;&gt;Dragons of Tarkir release notes&lt;/a&gt; add this to the morph rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.36e&lt;/strong&gt; Megamorph is a variant of the morph ability. “Megamorph [cost]” means “&lt;strong&gt;You may cast this card as a 2/2 face-down creature with no text, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost by paying 3 rather than paying its mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;” and “As this permanent is turned face up, put a +1/+1 counter on it if its megamorph cost was paid to turn it face up.” A megamorph cost is a morph cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, as Jefromi points out, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/mechanics-dragons-tarkir-2015-03-02#anchor6&quot;&gt;Mechanics of Dragons of Tarkir&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you understand how morph works, megamorph is almost exactly the same. The &lt;strong&gt;only difference&lt;/strong&gt; is that if you turn a face-down creature with megamorph face up by paying its megamorph cost, not only will it suddenly have its normal characteristics, but you'll put a +1/+1 counter on it as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morph and Megamorph use the exact same wording for the bolded section, so you should just be able to say &quot;I cast this face down&quot; and pay {3}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-23T19:54:12.087" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T19:54:12.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-23T19:58:28.570" Score="3" ViewCount="43768" Body="&lt;p&gt;First: We assume that every player is playing at its best&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules 5x5 board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 begins and puts every turn one cross “X”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 puts every turn two circles “O”. They don’t have to be next to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player wins as soon as he has five of his pieces in a horizontal or vertical line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also agree that player 1 “X” wins if the board is completely full.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zaLt1.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best strategy for each player to win the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12187" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:32:34.203" LastActivityDate="2020-06-14T10:29:34.853" Title="What's the best strategy to win a tic-tac-toe variant on a 5x5-board?" Tags="|tic-tac-toe|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2015-03-23T20:32:09.510" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;go to tappedout.net and play their playtest app. you can find different decks in there built by other player and go ahead and play their deck against yours &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12188" LastActivityDate="2015-03-23T20:32:09.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-03-23T21:32:19.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have flip-flopped a few times, but think that Player 2 has an unbeatable strategy. The trick is that Player 1 needs an X in each row and each column while Player 2 needs a &quot;box&quot;. Four O's that form a rectangle with no X's that share a row or column with said rectangle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First two O's sharing a row with self and separated by 1 square. Never put below or above or in line with X on this move. If possible (X not in center column) also make the square not in line with the X.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If X is not above or below your O's then place two more O's above or below your current ones, at this point you can make two three in a rows on your next move, which means X cannot win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If X is above or below your O's then they blocked the box and you need to work to make it. This involves forcing X's move every turn by making a three in a row with holes where you want him to go. The first move is to add a third O to your line forcing X to block, make this third O on a free column that does not have an X and place another O on that column not sharing a row with an X.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After X's move they have an X in three columns and rows assuming good play, if they do not it is easier. The objective is to minimize the reach to avoid X gaining the needed diversity of locations. Place an O in the same row as your fourth O and sharing a column with one of the original row's Os. Place the second O in the same column in the row that does not have an X. X is now forced to block this column without blocking a new row (as you win if they don't play in that column and both those rows are blocked by new Os).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whichever one they block you now have two rows/columns with two O's and no X's. Place an O in each and finish whichever X does not block on your final move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance the following moves show this algorithm:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;X (3,3) O (2,2&amp;amp;2,4) X (4,4) O (1,2&amp;amp;1,5) X (5,2) O (2,1&amp;amp;2,5) X (2,3) O (1,3&amp;amp;3,5) X (1,1) O (4,5&amp;amp;5,5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;X chooses the middle and then blocks the first box. However after this X is forced to make each move it makes (or an equivalent or inferior move). In fact past the second move the only moves that would change Os moves would involve immediate wins by O.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If X goes (3,1) as their second move it ends sooner, with O (2,4&amp;amp;4,4) followed by two three in a rows on the next turn. (X (3,4) follows with O (2,3&amp;amp;4,3) then either (2,1&amp;amp;2,5) or (4,1&amp;amp;4,5) and X (2,3) follows with O (3,4&amp;amp;4,3) then O(1,4&amp;amp;5,4) or (4,1&amp;amp;4,5))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1's strategy would be to block any three in a rows and always attempt to play in a row and column that does not contain an X, but that doesn't block the above from winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T18:04:41.957" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T18:04:41.957" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23554" CreationDate="2015-03-24T00:08:32.987" Score="4" ViewCount="5011" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I manifest an instant or sorcery card which I'd like to use, and I have a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/frf/en/141.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Temur Sabertooth&lt;/a&gt; in play. Can I use Temur Sabertooth's ability to return the card to my hand, and do I have to reveal it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12192" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T18:41:59.573" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T18:41:59.573" Title="What happens when, and can I return face-down non-creature cards to my hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23553" CreationDate="2015-03-24T00:09:59.073" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can return the face-down card to your hand, and yes, you do have to reveal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first rule about Manifest, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Manifest&quot;&gt;701.31a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Manifest [a card]&quot; means &quot;Put [that card] onto the battlefield face down.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;That permanent is a 2/2 creature&lt;/strong&gt; with no text, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost. That permanent is a manifested permanent as long as it's face down. The effect defining its characteristics works any time the card is face down and ends when it's turned face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Face-Down_Spells_and_Permanents&quot;&gt;rule 707.9&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a face-down permanent moves from the battlefield to any other zone, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it.&lt;/strong&gt; If a face-down spell moves from the stack to any zone other than the battlefield, its owner must reveal it to all players as he or she moves it. At the end of each game, all face-down permanents and spells must be revealed to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T00:09:59.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-24T03:29:35.677" Score="3" ViewCount="3236" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if spell casting only happens after attacks and blocking has been declared or if it's just at the second main phase? I've spoken to a few players in my area, but there aren't many people around here who play,  and I'm not sure I understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12194" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T03:32:53.600" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:31:52.670" Title="When can I cast spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23556" CreationDate="2015-03-24T03:34:50.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what type of spell you are referring to. Most spells can be cast either during the first main phase of your turn (which is before combat), or during the second main phase (which is after combat). This includes creature spells, sorcery spells, enchantment spells, artifact spells, and planeswalker spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instant spells, and spells with &quot;Flash&quot;, can be cast at anytime you have priority, which can be on other players' turns, during certain parts of combat, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T03:40:49.587" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T03:40:49.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23556" CreationDate="2015-03-24T04:30:59.417" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Artifacts, creatures, enchantments, lands, planeswalkers, and sorceries can be cast during your first or second main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, can be cast during any step except for the untap step and most cleanup steps. You can cast instants after attacking but before your opponent has a chance to block. You cannot cast instants in the middle of another spell or ability resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After any spell or ability resolves, the player who is currently taking a turn gets the opportunity to cast things first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spells or abilities, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicken&quot;&gt;Quicken&lt;/a&gt;, modify when you can cast things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are interested in the nitty gritty details, Section 5 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;, which covers &amp;quot;Turn Structure&amp;quot;, has nearly 150 rules that you can read. Much of it has been condensed into &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twoevils.org/html/mtg/turn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this neat chart&lt;/a&gt;, but a lot of (situationally relevant) information has been left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T13:31:52.670" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T13:31:52.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23560" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-24T09:25:19.517" Score="2" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a timing question: Is it possible to attack with &amp;quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodthrone%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Bloodthrone Vampire&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; and let's say 10 other creatures at the same time, while using BOTH abilities of &amp;quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brutal%20Hordechief&quot;&gt;Brutal Hordechief&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; and therefore cause 30 damage with only 1 creature actually causing damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent has 15 creatures on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I attack with Bloodthrone Vampire and 10 other creatures. Since Brutal Hordechief is on the field, I cause 11 damage to my opponent due to Hordechief's first ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then I want to sacrifice 9 of my 10 other attacking creatures in order to give Bloodthrone Vampire +18/+18, causing another 19 damage to my opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since I have used Hordechief's 2nd ability (spent 5 mana), all my opponent's creatures should have blocked the last of my 10 attacking creatures (the one I didn't sacrifice with my Vampire's ability).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I caused 30 damage using Bloodthrone Vampire and Brutal Hordechief's first ability, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a timing error somewhere along the way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12198" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T11:38:04.457" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T06:26:02.330" Title="Brutal Hordechief &amp; Bloodthrone Vampire" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23560" CreationDate="2015-03-24T09:52:15.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you have Bloodthrone Vampire and 10 other creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have successfully activated Brutal Hordechief's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the declare attackers step you declare 11 attackers. Brutal Hordechief's ability triggers, you gain 11 life and the opponent loses 11 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the declare blockers step, you can choose how enemy creatures block since you activated Brutal Hordechief's second ability. You can choose all 15 creatures to block one of your 10 creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After this, you get priority and you can sacrifice 10 of your creatures to give your Bloodthrone Vampire +20/20. Assuming the opponent doesn't have anything to respond, Bloodthrone Vampire will deal 21 damage (for a total of 32 damage).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some extra strategy tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that you can deal even more damage if you choose not to sacrifice creatures with power more than 2 (and even 1 unless you fear your opponent can get rid of a group of small creatures).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say 2 out of 10 creatures are 1/1, 4 are 2/2 and 4 are 3/3. You can choose enemy creatures to block one of your 1/1 creatures, sacrifice them, and you will deal 5 damage with your vampire, 8 damage with your 2/2 creatures and 12 with your 3/3 creatures, with a total of 25 damage. Add 11 life loss to that - opponent loses 35 life this combat phase, and you still have 9 creatures alive if the game goes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T06:26:02.330" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T06:26:02.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23560" CreationDate="2015-03-24T11:29:18.920" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I caused 30 damage using Bloodthrone Vampire and Brutal Hordechief's first ability, right??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is there a timing error somewhere along the way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will deal 30 damage, but your steps are a little bit incorrect. How it should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat phase begins(rule &lt;strong&gt;507&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose an opponent who becomes a defending player(but since you're only playing with 2, you can only choose the other player, so basically you do not have any choice here)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers step starts(rule &lt;strong&gt;508&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose all your creatures to attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then triggered abilities go on the stack(Brutal Hordechief's first ability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When this ability resolves, you get 11 life and your opponent loses 11 life. (This isn't damage, it's life loss, which is important because effects like that of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Channel%20Harm&quot;&gt;Channel Harm&lt;/a&gt; won't be able to do anything about it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blockers step starts(rule &lt;strong&gt;509&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second ability of Brutal Hordechief will let you choose the blockers. You may let them all block one of your tiny creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then you get the priority(rule &lt;strong&gt;509.5&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now you can activate Bloodthrone Vampire's ability and sacrifice 9 creatures to give your Bloodthrone Vampire +18/+18. Because 9 of your creatures were removed from combat after declare blockers step, your opponent can't choose new targets to block&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage step starts(rule &lt;strong&gt;510&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is dealt simultaneously, so your unblocked 19/19 Bloodthrone Vampire deals damage to your opponent and his creatures do nothing(because they were blocking a creature that were removed from the battlefield)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this sums up to 30 damage + damage of that 1 creature that you didn't sacrifice(which is probably Brutal Hordechief), so in total you would deal 33 damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T11:35:10.047" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T11:35:10.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23572" CreationDate="2015-03-24T14:00:35.257" Score="8" ViewCount="2239" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up while playing with a bunch of rules lawyers this weekend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be anything in the rules that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; explore a new room every turn, or leave the room you're currently in, or prevent you from ping-ponging between rooms, or basically just waste your turn, which my question hinges on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a person discovers the Vault;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;that person has a high enough Knowledge trait that a 6+ roll is statistically possible;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Haunt has not begun yet, so there is no Traitor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the assumption that the player in the Vault is statistically guaranteed to open the Vault at some point in the future, can all players &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in the Vault simply agree that they will all pass their turns until the Vault is unlocked?  Basically guaranteeing an eventual successful unlocking of the Vault?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, to put it more succinctly: before the haunt, if all players agree, can a person in the Vault with enough skill to open it automatically open it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can imagine the characters sitting around in a haunted house, bored out of their minds, getting impatient, &amp;quot;Have you opened it &lt;em&gt;yet&lt;/em&gt;?&amp;quot;, the sun rises, and sets again, everyone is getting hungry, and the person in the vault says, &amp;quot;No, but I think I'm close!&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems kind of unsporting but it does run the risk of giving the traitor two sweet, sweet items, and I can't find anything that seems to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T23:00:58.860" Title="Before the haunt, can players agree to automatically crack the Vault?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23563" CreationDate="2015-03-24T14:16:16.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why not. Like you said, you're not forced to do anything useful. Besides, if everyone playing thinks this is the more fun way to play, then who cares what the rules say anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T14:16:16.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23748" CreationDate="2015-03-24T15:03:04.967" Score="13" ViewCount="4344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find a slight ambiguity in the manual for Patchwork regarding &lt;strong&gt;when&lt;/strong&gt; the special event spaces are triggered. From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Time Board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regardless of the action you take you always move your time token on the time board. Some spaces of the time board are marked. Whenever you move onto or past one of those spaces, resolve the corresponding event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that the markers for the &lt;em&gt;marked spaces&lt;/em&gt; are actually placed between two spaces. When exactly does the button pay out? The same applies to the special patches. In the example Green has definitely moved &lt;em&gt;onto or past&lt;/em&gt; the button, but has Yellow? It is also possible that the button itself is a space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZfDAm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Time Board early in a game of Patchwork&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe this is a situation for a house rule, or I could just be missing something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T20:41:57.293" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T07:36:23.547" Title="When do you collect income in Patchwork?" Tags="|patchwork|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23546" CreationDate="2015-03-24T16:55:35.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the prerelease we asked the tournament organiser (a DCI judge) and we were told to say &quot;morph&quot; whether we were casting a morph or megamorph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T17:12:24.497" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T17:12:24.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23569" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:26:07.480" Score="7" ViewCount="881" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is this kind of card shuffling called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a grid of cards where you take 1 card at a time to create a grid of say 2 wide and 2 tall, (although it could be any number wide/tall)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ASCII Drawing;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;[[Deck]] -&amp;gt; Add one card to create 4 stacks and repeat the process over &amp;amp; over.&#xA;&#xA;[Card] [Card]&#xA;[Card] [Card]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you take cards you add it to a random stack thus creating (in the above example) 4 stacks (or decks) of cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is this shuffle called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12204" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-09-19T01:53:42.380" LastActivityDate="2017-09-19T01:53:42.380" Title="What is this kind of card shuffling called?" Tags="|shuffling|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23568" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:49:25.687" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is called random pile shuffling. &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling#Pile_shuffle&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; defines pile shuffling as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards are simply dealt out into a number of piles, then the piles are stacked on top of each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgb7tEuRYYI&quot;&gt;YouTube video&lt;/a&gt; demonstrating pile shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trivia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At a Magic: the Gathering tournament, pile shuffling by itself is not a sufficient means of randomization.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two others popular types of shuffling are (warning, these are video links) &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_39ROWJbM7w&quot;&gt;mash shuffling&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EhLlSnTgL4&quot;&gt;riffle shuffling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-24T23:50:41.313" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T23:50:41.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23411" CreationDate="2015-03-24T18:59:27.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this looks like a version of Minoru. Seems like a very old 19th century board. It would very difficult to actually identify it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12205" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T15:49:01.457" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T15:49:01.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23571" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-24T21:32:58.203" Score="5" ViewCount="1407" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I buy a card that does damage to me, and I have camouflage, do I get to roll to negate that damage? The card says when I take damage I roll to negate it, so I would think I could get rid of the damage by rolling hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Camouflage: If you take damage, roll a die, on a heart roll you do not take the damage. You roll once die for each damage you take. Does this apply to damage from cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12207" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T13:01:30.150" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T14:21:05.990" Title="king of Tokyo- camouflage" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23563" CreationDate="2015-03-24T23:00:58.860" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have to do anything on your turn, so if all players agree there's no reason you couldn't give the player who discovers the vault &lt;em&gt;all the turns&lt;/em&gt; until they open it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I'd suggest this is tactically a bad idea for the players not in the vault. Until the haunt starts you don't know who is on your team. An individual player could increase his or her own chance of winning by grabbing the sweet, sweet loot for themselves. It would make more sense for all the players who stood a chance of opening the vault to rush there as soon as it is discovered, personally I think that would be much more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2015-03-24T23:00:58.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5732" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:01:28.053" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;against 1. e4, i prefer 1. ...e5 and after the standard 2. Nf3, there is 2. ...f5. Respectively, a lower ranked player had beaten Capablanca with this.&#xA;The thing is that a player on the white side's reflex is to play for either 3. eXf5 and then bewildered by 3. ...e4, or 3. NXe5 fXe4 4. Qh5+ g6 5. NXg6 Nf6 and the shelf crumbles.&#xA;Unnecessarily speaking, this won't work against a strong player. At least, I bet gambits for blitz play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12210" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T11:01:28.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23574" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-25T11:29:43.083" Score="1" ViewCount="2270" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am working on building my own gaming table and was wondering if anyone could provide me with a detailed set of dimensions for the Geek Chic rail system and a cupholder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12211" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:55:00.817" Title="Geek Chic Rail System Dimensions?" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23571" CreationDate="2015-03-25T13:02:08.407" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your doubts probably stem from thinking about the cards that react to attacks. Damage from cards aren't attacks, so those cards don't react to damage from cards. However, Camouflage doesn't mention attacks, only damage. As such, there's no reason for it not to function in the scenario you describe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-03-25T14:21:05.990" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T14:21:05.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32555" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:26:04.337" Score="5" ViewCount="2660" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pile shuffling does not randomize a deck. Except during pregame, where pile shuffling allows players to count the number of cards in the deck, it might be considered a waste of time, and therefore considered slow play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see tons of players pile shuffle at large tournaments. I watch them pile shuffle while totally engulfed by hordes of judges because they are playing on camera. I always pile shuffle my deck during pregame to count cards. I pile shuffle my opponent's deck to do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is pile shuffling at a Magic: the Gathering tournament considered slow play, during pregame or otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is related to the question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/14161/6692&quot;&gt;Mana Weaving&lt;/a&gt;. The difference between the two questions is the actual, real-world experience I have at tournaments and watching video coverage. I've seen judges ask a players to stop mana weaving. I've never seen a judge ask a player to stop pile shuffling. So even though I would expect the answers to be the same from a strict rules standpoint, the answers appear to be different in reality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer depends on the REL, please answer for both Regular and Competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2018-05-11T14:29:14.223" Title="Is pile shuffling considered slow play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23574" CreationDate="2015-03-25T15:31:16.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the rail designs are pretty clear from this picture off their website.  The exact numbers aren't important if you're building it yourself. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming this desk is 1/2&quot; thick, then the rail groove entrance is roughly 3/8&quot; thick, and the rail is roughly 1/2&quot; deep.  There is a groove going up behind the rail, that looks to be 1/4&quot; wide, that &quot;locks&quot; the desk into place.  Notice, that most of the force of the desk here is getting absorbed not by the thin piece of the desk going into the groove, but the &quot;side wall.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are beautiful tables!  Good luck with your project.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ihTuD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T15:31:16.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23576" CreationDate="2015-03-25T19:11:38.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, there is no rule that states that pile shuffling is unequivocally slow play or not slow play.  As your question hints at, it depends on the judge and circumstances.  If it is obvious someone is trying to waste time to force a match draw it would (or should, in my opinion) be called slow play.  If it isn't hurting anything, I doubt it would get called.  The slow play rule is to keep people from taking an excessively long time to do something (either for personal gain, ie forcing a draw, or to stop analysis paralysis).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana weaving is different in that it can only, at best, be a time waster.  (If you are properly shuffling, it won't do anything.)  At worst, it is a form of cheating because you are trying to stack your deck.  In either case, it is best to avoid even the appearance that a tournament is allowing something that could be called cheating when that behavior has no possible legitimate use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-03-25T19:11:38.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23548" CreationDate="2015-03-25T19:34:40.887" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a generalized version of @Guvante's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;O (player 2) always wins in 4. The diagonals are not necessary to achieve a win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples are included in &lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt;, but this strategy works for all choices made by X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;X places a piece at (a,b): &lt;strong&gt;(1,1)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O chooses a row that is not a, and places two pieces in that row, but not in column b: &lt;strong&gt;(2,2) and (2,5)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, O is attacking on the chosen row &lt;strong&gt;(2)&lt;/strong&gt;, and on two columns &lt;strong&gt;(2 and 5)&lt;/strong&gt;. X will have to defend against one of these three attacks: &lt;strong&gt;(2,3)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;O chooses a free row and places two pieces above or below his previous pieces: &lt;strong&gt;(5,2)&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;(5,5)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what the board looks like at this point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; X1|  |  |  |  &#xA;   |O1|X2|  |O1&#xA;   |  |  |  |  &#xA;   |  |  |  |  &#xA;   |O2|  |  |O2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now O has 3 different attacks going on. In our example these are row 5 and columns 2 and 5. X can block one of these, and O can expand the other two to three-in-a-rows. Then X can block one of those, and O completes the other. Game over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is done in 4 moves, there's no risk of X getting 5 in a row so this is of no concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: step by step images, colors depict dominance.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYzdB.png&quot; alt=&quot;X1&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8OWxn.png&quot; alt=&quot;O1&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0K3dl.png&quot; alt=&quot;X2&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ZPgf.png&quot; alt=&quot;O2&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8tFcA.png&quot; alt=&quot;X3&quot;&gt; &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2SfQ8.png&quot; alt=&quot;O3&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T11:09:32.520" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T11:09:32.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23583" CreationDate="2015-03-25T22:51:08.920" Score="1" ViewCount="13882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a budget &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Natural%20Order&quot;&gt;Natural Order&lt;/a&gt; deck, so I'm looking for tutors that can find sorcerys in green and black, preferably that have CMC 3 or less. I hope you can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T03:25:57.363" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T20:58:31.613" Title="Tutors for Sorceries?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23582" CreationDate="2015-03-25T23:08:19.247" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following cards in black and green will allow you to search your library for a sorcery, and possibly other cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bringer%20of%20the%20Black%20Dawn&quot;&gt;Bringer of the Black Dawn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cruel%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Cruel Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demonic%20Collusion&quot;&gt;Demonic Collusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demonic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Demonic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diabolic%20Intent&quot;&gt;Diabolic Intent&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diabolic%20Revelation&quot;&gt;Diabolic Revelation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diabolic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Diabolic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entomb&quot;&gt;Entomb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (tutors to the graveyard)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grim%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Grim Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Imperial%20Seal&quot;&gt;Imperial Seal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (tutors to the top of the library)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Increasing%20Ambition&quot;&gt;Increasing Ambition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infernal%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Infernal Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Insidious%20Dreams&quot;&gt;Insidious Dreams&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20Vess&quot;&gt;Liliana Vess&lt;/a&gt; (tutors to the top of the library)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rhystic%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Rhystic Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rune-Scarred%20Demon&quot;&gt;Rune-Scarred Demon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sidisi%2C%20Undead%20Vizier&quot;&gt;Sidisi, Undead Vizier&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vampiric%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Vampiric Tutor&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (tutors to the top of the library)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've highlighted the cards with converted mana cost 3 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also black cards with Transmute, which allows you to pay {1}{B}{B} and discard that card to search for a card with the same CMC:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainspoil&quot;&gt;Brainspoil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dimir%20House%20Guard&quot;&gt;Dimir House Guard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dimir%20Machinations&quot;&gt;Dimir Machinations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Netherborn%20Phalanx&quot;&gt;Netherborn Phalanx&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shred%20Memory&quot;&gt;Shred Memory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demonic%20Consultation&quot;&gt;Demonic Consultation&lt;/a&gt; isn't exactly a tutor, but it does let you get a specific card out of your library into your hand, at the cost of exiling every card above it, and with a chance of exiling your whole library without finding it. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spoils%20of%20the%20Vault&quot;&gt;Spoils of the Vault&lt;/a&gt; has a similar effect, except that you're guaranteed to find the card if it's in there, but you lose 1 life for each card exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T20:58:31.613" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T20:58:31.613" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23584" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23585" CreationDate="2015-03-26T01:05:40.583" Score="4" ViewCount="2973" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just thinking that if I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flickerwisp&quot;&gt;Flickerwisp&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Impact%20Tremors&quot;&gt;Impact Tremors&lt;/a&gt; in play, and I cast another Flickerwisp, would I be able to have the Flickerwisps &amp;quot;flick&amp;quot; each other until my opponents are at 0 life and win me the game? I'm thinking I might be on to something here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how the &amp;quot;end of turn&amp;quot; ruling affects this, but if it's an issue I guess I can use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fiend%20Hunter&quot;&gt;Fiend Hunter&lt;/a&gt; for this combo, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12213" LastEditorUserId="12213" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T01:15:01.590" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T04:51:49.047" Title="Does having 2 Flickerwisps and an Impact Tremors win me the game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23584" CreationDate="2015-03-26T01:17:39.363" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the first Flickerwisp will come back at the beginning of your end of turn step. The creature it exiles wouldn't come back until the beginning of the next end of turn since after they wont trigger at the begging of the end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ruling on the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the permanent that returns to the battlefield has any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the end step, those abilities won't trigger that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that the ruling on the card is just a clarification of the usual &quot;beginning of phase&quot; effects.  Since all beginning of phase effects are put on the stack first, and then are resolved in LIFO order any new &quot;beginning of phase&quot; effects that are put into play don't fire.  The &quot;beginning of the phase&quot; has already ended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fiend Hunter will work for this combo, but you would need three of them. We'll call them A, B, and C. The pattern would follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A enters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B enters, capturing A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C enters, capturing B, which releases A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T16:01:29.303" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T16:01:29.303" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23588" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:18:28.560" Score="4" ViewCount="2330" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer game of Magic: The Gathering, if a card requires an opponent to make a choice — like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fact%20or%20Fiction&quot;&gt;Fact or Fiction&lt;/a&gt;, which states an opponent separates the piles into two piles — who gets to pick which opponent makes that choice, e.g. which opponent separates them? Because in a tournament where four people play against each other and two of the people are friends it just seems unfair that the player can choose anyone to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12219" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T22:48:26.630" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T22:48:26.630" Title="When &quot;an opponent&quot; has to do something in a multiplayer game, who does it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23587" CreationDate="2015-03-26T17:32:03.007" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player who controls the spell chooses the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There could be some political issues here, but no more so than if you had a friend in a 4-player game who refused to attack you because you were friends. He's still your opponent in the game, so he should be making the decisions that will give him the best chance of winning; not trying to help you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150123.pdf&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.3. Some spells specify that one of their controller’s opponents does something the controller would&#xA;  normally do while it’s being cast, such as choose a mode or choose targets. In these cases, the&#xA;  opponent does so when the spell’s controller normally would do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;601.3a &lt;strong&gt;If there is more than one opponent who could make such a choice, the spell’s controller&#xA;    decides which of those opponents will make the choice.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-26T17:58:17.290" LastActivityDate="2015-03-26T17:58:17.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23592" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T02:39:46.947" Score="4" ViewCount="2249" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing rubber bridge, can the declarer still claim after the hand is over but the next hand has not been dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12229" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T23:59:18.330" Title="Claiming honours in rubber bridge" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23593" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-27T11:38:25.547" Score="3" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where I can search by card for decks from major modern tournaments? By major tournaments, I mean Grand Prixs, StarCityGames Open Series, TCGPlayer Max Point Series, and other large (200+) player tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I need to be able to find modern decks that use a specific card. I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tibalt%2C%20the%20Fiend-Blooded&quot;&gt;Tibalt, the Fiend-Blooded&lt;/a&gt; that I would like to find a use for (other than as a bookmark).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T19:42:43.763" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T19:42:43.763" Title="Where can I search by card for decks in major tournaments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23592" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:18:01.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Laws-of-Rubber-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014 Laws of Rubber Bridge&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 76 - Responsibility for the Score&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;....  Honors may be claimed until the next hand has been dealt, or the&#xA;rubber has been completed and scored - whichever comes sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 78 Correction of the Score&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is acknowledged by a majority of the players that a scoring error was made in recording an&#xA;agreed upon result (e.g. failure to enter honors or incorrect&#xA;computation of score), the error must be corrected if discovered&#xA;before the net score for the rubber has been agreed to. However,&#xA;except with the consent of all four players, an erroneous agreement as&#xA;to the number of tricks won by each side may not be corrected after&#xA;all players have called on the next deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case of disagreement&#xA;between two scores kept, the recollection of the majority of the&#xA;players as to the facts governs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T13:18:01.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23593" CreationDate="2015-03-27T13:23:39.617" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;magic.tcgplayer.com allows you to search deck lists based on a particular card being used.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/db/deck_search_result.asp?CardName=Tibalt,%20the%20Fiend-Blooded&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's the search&lt;/a&gt; for Tibalt.  You can also use their Deck search tools to limit by format and place finished in addition to specific cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limiting your search to include decks using Tibalt, in the Modern format, that placed at least 1st through 64th returns zero results, indicating that no successful deck in the entire TCGPlayer database has ever used Tibalt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-27T16:42:20.787" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T16:42:20.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23576" CreationDate="2015-03-27T15:42:41.220" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am terrible at expressing my thoughts in maths, but the idea with pile shuffling before or after randomisation is likely to be a way of proving that you're not attempting to cheat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you're able to remember a certain order of 60 cards, pile shuffling will rearrange the order of every single one of those 60 cards. Suppose you are able to memorise the order in which your 60 cards are at point A. Now perform a pile shuffle. You now need to shift the position of every single one of those 60 cards by &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt; and remember the new order. Now perform another shuffling technique. Even if the second technique is not one that does sufficient randomisation either, you will still need to shift those 60 cards by another amount &lt;em&gt;y&lt;/em&gt; on top of the shift by &lt;em&gt;x&lt;/em&gt;. Now add a third method on top of that, shifting once again, now by amount &lt;em&gt;z&lt;/em&gt;. I suppose it is &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to know the new order of the cards, but highly unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not even take into account what will happen if one of your 3 methods is actually one that DOES actually randomise the order of the cards instead of simply shifting them around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I feel is meant by the rules when they state &lt;em&gt;sufficiently randomised&lt;/em&gt;. They don't have to be &lt;strong&gt;actually&lt;/strong&gt; randomised, they simply have to be jumbled enough that it is unlikely that you still had significant influence over the order and position of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12080" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T15:42:41.220" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23593" CreationDate="2015-03-27T17:21:02.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;mtgtop8.com appears to collect some of the data you're interested in (top finishes at GPs, SCG events, MTGO, etc.). It has decks broken down by format and by archetype, so that you can see what trends in the meta-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-03-27T17:21:02.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23196" CreationDate="2015-03-28T00:44:06.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can build a ship in any sea zone adjacent to a &quot;factory&quot; owned by your country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning of many versions of the game, Russia has two factories, one in the Moscow zone, and one in Karelia (Leningrad), but none in the Caucasus. Russia needs first to build a factory in the Caucasus (or some Middle Eastern square adjacent to the Caspian Sea), which will then allow her to build a ship in the Caspian Sea. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T00:44:06.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23601" CreationDate="2015-03-28T03:16:11.193" Score="6" ViewCount="3084" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent attacks me with a creature.  I use a burn spell to deal lethal damage, then he regenerates it.  Is it removed from combat at that point or does it still deal damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10108" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T11:49:54.177" Title="Is a Regenerated Creature Removed from Combat?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11447" CreationDate="2015-03-28T03:31:34.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late answer, but how about allow other quests and for every mandatory quest not competed at the end of each round, deduct 2 points.  So an annoying penalty that can get progressive worse, but not devastating, and can be ignored, especially late in the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12233" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T03:31:34.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23599" CreationDate="2015-03-28T03:35:35.010" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, when a creature is regenerated, it is removed from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact wording of the rule (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Regeneration&quot;&gt;701.12a&lt;/a&gt;) is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the effect of a resolving spell or ability regenerates a permanent, it creates a replacement effect that protects the permanent the next time it would be destroyed this turn. In this case, “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. &lt;strong&gt;If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.&lt;/strong&gt;”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T03:35:35.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23627" CreationDate="2015-03-28T08:24:57.383" Score="10" ViewCount="6499" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules it says you can interfere with combat &quot;use a one shot item to help another player by casting a potion against his foe&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend drew a lvl18 card and someone else helped him. I wanted to play a flaming poison potion to add +3 to their side and &quot;help&quot; them. Then by the wording of the rules, as an elf, do I go up a level?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12235" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T17:34:00.833" Title="Can you interfere and help and win the game as an elf in munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23602" CreationDate="2015-03-28T09:22:47.410" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer's very likely that no, that doesn't count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't the kind of help talked about in the &lt;em&gt;Asking for help&lt;/em&gt; section, where you actually join the combat and are at genuine risk of suffering Bad Things if you lose. Vitally people can refuse help offered this way, and limit the elf's ability to gain bonus levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interfering with combat by playing cards to benefit the player involved is, however, called &quot;help&quot;. But there's lots of other risk-free things you can do to &quot;help&quot;, including telling the player to use their own consumables, or getting them a glass of water to help them think and focus on combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately if this comes up it probably should be resolved by a loud argument with the owner of the game having the final word. I would probably argue against it, since elves will have an unstoppable, risk-free ability to gain quite a lot of levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(To your title of whether you can help &lt;em&gt;and win the game:&lt;/em&gt; you can't reach level 10 by helping this way as an elf, as you didn't kill a monster yourself, you just helped someone else who killed one.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-28T10:28:55.993" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T10:28:55.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23599" CreationDate="2015-03-28T11:49:54.177" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly creatures regenerate tapped.  That pretty much removes them from combat.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10333" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T11:49:54.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23606" CreationDate="2015-03-28T19:02:22.780" Score="5" ViewCount="2416" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some clarification on the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleam%20of%20Authority&quot;&gt;Gleam of Authority&lt;/a&gt;.  The wording on the card is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantment - Aura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant Creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for each +1/+1 counter on other creatures you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a tap ability to bolster and vigilance. My question is on the enchanted creature get +1/+1 for each +1/+1 counter on other creatures you control.  Is this text a one time application?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have 3 +1/+1 counters, my enchanted creature gets +3/+3.  If I add another +1/+1 counter to the board later, will the enchanted creature now have +4/+4 or will it remain +3/+3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12237" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T01:23:12.610" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T01:23:12.610" Title="Is Gleam of Authority's bonus constant or one-time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23605" CreationDate="2015-03-28T19:37:47.690" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is a constant thing, not one-time, so if a creature you control gets another +1/+1 counter after the enchantment comes into play, the enchanted creature will increase in power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability is a static ability, which means that it is in effect as long as the enchantment is in play, and its effect on the creature depends on the current board state, not the board state when the Enchantment entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Static_ability&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;604.1.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Static abilities do something all the time rather than being activated or triggered&lt;/strong&gt;. They are written as statements, and they're simply true.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Static_ability&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;604.2.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Static abilities create continuous effects, some of which are prevention effects or replacement effects. &lt;strong&gt;These effects are active as long as the permanent with the ability remains on the battlefield and has the ability&lt;/strong&gt;, or as long as the object with the ability remains in the appropriate zone, as described in rule 112.6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3a&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t &quot;locked in&quot;; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T19:37:47.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21146" CreationDate="2015-03-28T21:03:08.510" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's attack and defense are equal to the monsters you sacrificed added up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12238" LastActivityDate="2015-03-28T21:03:08.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23645" CreationDate="2015-03-28T22:01:25.707" Score="2" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game board reserves a space for Event cards, but how they come into the game is a secret, thus spoiler protection below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; The &quot;sign the board twice&quot; envelope introduces the Event cards, with rules concerning them to be pasted into the rulebook. I know this from an earlier group. My current group has not yet opened that envelope, but we did just open the &quot;all nine minor cities&quot; envelope, which contains a few event cards like Resistance and Riots. Are we supposed to play with those few event cards now, or set them aside until the rules take effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T11:41:50.593" Title="Use of Event cards without corresponding rules" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23610" CreationDate="2015-03-28T23:52:57.057" Score="2" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son got a bunch of Pokemon cards.  One set he bought used was the Call of Legends expansion.  The instructions say that there are two preset decks that you can use to start with to understand the game.  But all the cards are mixed together since its used.  Is there a specific icon on the card, to identify the starter decks of cards?  Or, is there any other designation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2222" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T03:02:10.233" Title="Pokemon Call of Legends Starter Cards" Tags="|deck-building|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23609" CreationDate="2015-03-29T03:02:10.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a set symbol for Call of Legends.    I can't link to it directly, but you can find the set symbol at the URLs below for the starter decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call of Legends refers to a set of about 100 cards, some of which were used to assemble the starter decks.   The Set icon above would be used on all cards from Call of Legends, those that were included in one of the starter decks and also those cards that were included only in booster packs.   There isn't a symbol specific to the starter decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were two starter decks for Call of Legends: Retort and Recon.   You can see the cards from each deck at the links below&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Retort_(TCG)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Retort_(TCG)&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Recon_(TCG)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Recon_(TCG)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11536" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T03:02:10.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12600" CreationDate="2015-03-29T14:32:27.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terrain Generator is a land that not only can add colorless mana but if you have extra land at the end of your opponents turn it allows you to put a basic into play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12239" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T14:32:27.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23612" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T21:29:57.923" Score="2" ViewCount="595" Body="&lt;p&gt;I need to know what happens first if I exploit a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sultai%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Sultai Emissary&lt;/a&gt; with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gurmag%20Drowner&quot;&gt;Gurmag Drowner&lt;/a&gt;. Do I look at the top 4 cards in my library and choose a card to add to my hand first or do I manifest the top card of my library first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12242" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-03-29T22:07:51.630" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:07:51.630" Title="If I sacrifice a Sultai Emissary to a Gurmag Drowner's Exploit ability, which triggered ability resolves first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23612" CreationDate="2015-03-29T22:04:05.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose what order they happen in, because you control both abilities, and they both trigger from the same event. Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;603.3b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses&lt;/strong&gt;. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, here's how it plays out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gurmag Drowner enters the battlefield, and its Exploit ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Exploit ability resolves, and you choose to sacrifice Sultai Emissary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, since the last time you checked you chose to sacrifice Sultai Emissary, so Gurmag Drowner's second ability triggers because you exploited a creature, and Sultai Emissary's ability triggers because it died. You choose in what order they go on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, you resolve whichever ability you chose to put on top of the stack. Then you resolve the other one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-03-29T22:04:05.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-29T23:02:17.707" Score="8" ViewCount="1817" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Olivia%20Voldaren&quot;&gt;Olivia Voldaren&lt;/a&gt; has the following for her second ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{3}{B}{B}: Gain control of target Vampire for as long as you control Olivia Voldaren.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Merieke%20Ri%20Berit&quot;&gt;Merieke Ri Berit&lt;/a&gt; has this for her second ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{T}: Gain control of target creature for as long as you control Merieke Ri Berit. When Merieke Ri Berit leaves the battlefield or becomes untapped, destroy that creature. It can't be regenerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent activates Olivia Voldaren's second ability, targeting a vampire. In response, I activate Merieke Ri Berit's second ability to steal Olivia Voldaren. Will my opponent still gain control of the vampire?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12243" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T14:20:27.247" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T14:41:20.270" Title="Does Olivia Voldaren's second ability still work if I steal her in response?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23614" CreationDate="2015-03-29T23:57:18.453" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;This one is an edge case, so it's interesting. Yes, the second ability resolves, but as the player activating the ability no longer controls Olivia, the end result is similar to if it hadn't, as she is no longer under that player's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=olivia+voldaren&quot;&gt;the gatherer page&lt;/a&gt; confirming this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you activate Olivia Voldaren's last ability, and before that ability resolves you lose control of Olivia Voldaren, the ability will resolve with no effect. You won't gain control of the targeted Vampire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12244" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T02:12:09.873" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T02:12:09.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23614" CreationDate="2015-03-29T23:59:16.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Berit's ability resolves, stealing Olivia. Olivia's ability resolves but as the player no longer controls Olivia the vampire she targeted stays under your control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12221" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T14:41:20.270" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T14:41:20.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23545" CreationDate="2015-03-30T05:17:07.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/12355980#12355980&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;, you keep the power of the entombed leader. As for seducing an already emtombed leader, I have not found anything, but I would not allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3431" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T05:17:07.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12561" CreationDate="2015-03-30T18:53:25.333" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A good tip I use is buy 3 combination locks from the doller store that look like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007VXKXQ0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/BestDealUSA-Combination-Luggage-Padlock-Durable/dp/B007VXKXQ0/ref=sr_1_2?s=hardware&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1427741474&amp;amp;sr=1-2&lt;/a&gt;... they are tiny but can be used to keep track of a bases points and fit in the game box, total cost $3 - total gamechanger&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12251" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T18:53:25.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T19:15:30.003" Score="1" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question came from missing out on finding a copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B005CHI7FQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ajani v. Nicol Bolas Duel Deck box&lt;/a&gt; to complete my set of duel decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When something goes out of print, it obviously becomes harder to find. What resources are available to find items when amazon or ebay have none listed anymore? I've tried a dozen other online shops with similar aspects to them, as well as my local game stores (in Seattle, so I'm not lacking any). I've also checked google's shopping section, as well as the top 5 pages of most of the possible variations I could come up with. If you can find one I would love a link to a shop with one in stock, but I'm more interested in the method of finding items - how would one go about finding other rarities, like the christmas special MTG cards? If it's not on amazon, what is the next step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thankyou for your time ~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12244" LastEditorUserId="12244" LastEditDate="2015-03-30T21:17:48.853" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T21:17:48.853" Title="Ways to find and purchase out-of-print / rare / old supplies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23620" CreationDate="2015-03-30T19:35:40.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for something like this that you can't easily find through most normal sellers I would try contacting the Customer Service departments of larger sellers like &lt;a href=&quot;http://starcitygames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star City Games&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://channelfireball.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Channel Fireball&lt;/a&gt; and see if they have any way of finding the item in question for you. I don't know if CFB does this, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/market-street/market-street-cafe/store-discussion/388586-starcitygames-discussion-thread?comment=812&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SCG&lt;/a&gt; does have a process for managing user requests, they might not have it in stock now, but knowing that you are interested in buying one means they are likely to acquire one if they come across a seller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-03-30T19:35:40.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-30T22:32:37.823" Score="2" ViewCount="2186" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Axis and Allies 1940 (Europe/Pacific/Global), what is the game effect of ignoring most or all of the National Objectives (bonus income) and simply not playing with them.  This reduces complexity and the need to constantly reference rules, but does it significantly unbalance the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any changes need to be implemented to make removal of the objectives balanced?  For example, if you feel the Allied objectives are easy and the Axis ones hard, maybe the balancing change is the give the Allies +10 IPCs each per turn instead of their objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2018-01-01T00:09:48.113" LastActivityDate="2018-01-01T00:09:48.113" Title="Is Axis and Allies 1940 Balanced without National Objectives?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23624" CreationDate="2015-03-31T00:21:01.080" Score="0" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; time since I've played Magic.  &lt;sub&gt;&lt;sup&gt;(My &quot;new&quot; cards are from 4th edition.)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I recall, tokens could be created and destroyed, but they could never be tapped or untapped.  In practice, people represented them with pennies or scraps of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm seeing talk about tapping and untapping tokens, and cards being sold to represent tokens to make this job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When did Magic start tapping and untapping tokens?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if they've always allowed it and my memory and/or understanding of the rules is simply faulty, feel free to make that clear in your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T17:23:54.580" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T17:23:54.580" Title="Has Magic always had tapped/untapped tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23623" CreationDate="2015-03-31T00:28:22.807" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tokens could always be tapped &amp;amp; untapped.  They're (usually) supposed to be creatures, after all, and creatures tap &amp;amp; untap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exhibit A: The very first token-generating card, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThe%20Hive%5d&quot;&gt;The Hive&lt;/a&gt;, from Alpha:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UfW89.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the text says &quot;mak[e] sure to indicate when each Wasp is tapped.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T00:28:22.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23631" CreationDate="2015-03-31T07:31:12.373" Score="1" ViewCount="5250" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; (for instance) comes in as a copy of a black creature and attacks and is blocked by a creature that has protection from black, how does it resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if the blocking creature has protection from blue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12258" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T12:35:13.990" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T19:58:19.927" Title="Does cloning a card include color?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23625" CreationDate="2015-03-31T08:21:02.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that by &quot;pro-black&quot; you mean having protection from black? If so, since clone is a copy of a black creature, it has all its copiable values, including color. Your copy will thus deal no damage to blocking creature. If that creature had protection from blue, your creature would do normal damage since it is black, not blue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T08:21:02.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23602" CreationDate="2015-03-31T11:03:49.897" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot;&gt;Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt; under &lt;em&gt;Important Note #2: Playing/Using/Switching Items During Combat&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Playing/using a one-shot Item during a combat that aids the munchkins (and not the monsters) does not constitute &quot;helping&quot; in combat, as described in the rules. This means that in any given combat, any number of players can play cards to aid or hinder either side as often as they want, as long as they have the cards. Only one other player can actually join the combat as a helper, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, this would not actually constitute &quot;helping&quot; in the combat to satisfy the Elf racial ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if through some other means you had actually been the helper in the combat, then yes you could have won or tied, as long as the card that allowed you to help did not specify that the level gained could not be the winning level, because according to the FAQ under &lt;em&gt;Important Note #1: Reaching Level 10&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note also that ANY level gained as a result of killing a monster counts as the winning level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?p=1360433#post1360433&quot;&gt;this post on the official Munchkin forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The level the Elf gains for helping in combat can be the winning level, because it's a level gained as the result of winning a fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-03-31T11:36:07.840" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T11:36:07.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23625" CreationDate="2015-03-31T11:43:57.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless the card that facilitates the copying (Clone in this case) states otherwise, you copy the target card &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt;. This includes it's attributes such as color and casting cost. Since you are copying a black creature and blocked by a creature with protection from black, your creature will deal no damage to the opposing creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12080" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T11:43:57.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23625" CreationDate="2015-03-31T14:31:37.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clone copies the color of the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that don't copy the color will state that directly on the card.  A good example of this is the out-of-print card &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159820&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vesuvan Doppleganger&lt;/a&gt;, which states right on the card that it does not copy the color of the creature it was copying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, the creature type &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; copied, which means if you Clone a Legendary Creature you already own, one of them has to go to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T14:31:37.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23574" CreationDate="2015-03-31T15:55:00.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm currently building one too and after looking around the internet, I found a lot of good sources and references. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have a look at this one:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.flickr.com/photos/kyouteki/sets/72157640655268305/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.flickr.com/photos/kyouteki/sets/72157640655268305/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see the little upwards groove that John was referring to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cut mine at 5/8&quot; deep x 5/8&quot; high (to the high point in the back). I think I have a sketch somewhere if you would like to see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trial and error on cheap wood is you best bet as there is no &quot;correct&quot; dimensions and it all depends on the thickness of the stock you'll be using for your final product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hugo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12260" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T15:55:00.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23625" CreationDate="2015-03-31T16:15:53.263" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's as if the physical Clone card was replaced with a copy of the card being copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The &lt;s&gt;Clone&lt;/s&gt; is black&lt;/strong&gt;, so a blocker with protection from black will receive no damage. The blocker will still deal damage as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The &lt;s&gt;Clone&lt;/s&gt; is not blue&lt;/strong&gt;, so a blocker with protection from blue will both receive and deal damage as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Its name isn't &amp;quot;Clone&amp;quot; anymore.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An object's color is determined by its mana cost and its color indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2. An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2e An object may have a color indicator printed to the left of the type line. That object is each color denoted by that color indicator. (See rule 204.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Becoming a copy of an object adopts the copied object's mana cost and its color indicator, replacing what the copier had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics&lt;/strong&gt; and, for an object on the stack, choices made when casting or activating it (mode, targets, the value of X, whether it was kicked, how it will affect multiple targets, and so on). The “copiable values” are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being name, &lt;strong&gt;mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;color indicator&lt;/strong&gt;, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by “as . . . enters the battlefield” and “as . . . is turned face up” abilities that set characteristics, and by abilities that caused the object to be face down. Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Only &amp;quot;printed&amp;quot; values are copied. The effects of Effects changing the copied object color are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; copied. For example, if the object being copied is a normally-green creature enchanted by an enchantment with &amp;quot;Enchanted creature is black&amp;quot;, the copy will be green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Protection gives protection from being &lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt;amaged, &lt;strong&gt;E&lt;/strong&gt;nchanted/Equipped/Fortified, &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;locked and &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;argeted&lt;sup&gt;[CR 702.16]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A blocker with protection from black can't be damaged by a black attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.16e Any damage that would be dealt by sources that have the stated quality to a permanent or player with protection is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T19:58:19.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6769" CreationDate="2015-03-31T20:31:48.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Axis and Allies when played with many players (one player per nation, usually this means five) can be a &lt;em&gt;long&lt;/em&gt; game with a lot of down time between turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A house rule we have used when we have a player for each nation is to rearrange the turn order so that allies move together (all the Axis, then all the allies).  Yes, this does affect the game, some balancing changes need to be made, and I wouldn't recommend this for tournament play, purists, or the super competitive.  It does remove a lot of downtime.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way it works:&#xA;All the Axis move together, then all the Allies move together, repeat.&#xA;After all team players have finished combat movement, then combat takes place.  Nations may attack the same territory, but must attack one at a time (the defenders defends together as normal).  The attacking players may choose which order they fight in and each must fight at least one round before retreating, but they still must attack independently.  Note this makes it impossible to clear speedbumps/skirmishers for a teammate's blitz.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some balancing changes to consider:&#xA;When we play this way we usually have widely different skill levels in the game so fine balance doesn't matter as much as having fun.  We do make some changes to help nations where losing the initiative would cripple.  For example, you may choose to give the USSR a non-combat move and full production phase before the first Axis move.  You may also give the UK a bid or non-combat move in the Pacific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have played this way a few times and it has gone well.  If you enjoy it please upvote and comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T20:31:48.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1977" CreationDate="2015-03-31T21:35:27.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group plays regularly with 9 players.  We add a Hittite empire using the orange Asia tokens starting in the small 1'er space in the middle east (Jerusalem?).  This empire uses the Asia AST and has a &quot;start location&quot; for barbarian hordes of the two large 1'er spaces of the Arabian desert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:35:27.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2015-03-31T21:43:23.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the start of the game after seeing the available kingdom cards, allow the junior player(s) to choose a kingdom card the senior player(s) will be disallowed from gaining by any means this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a harsh handicap, ban the senior player(s) from two or even more cards.  This forces you into your &quot;second strategy&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T21:43:23.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1977" CreationDate="2015-03-31T21:47:59.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/79843/civilization-expansion-project&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Civ Expansion Project&lt;/a&gt;.  Allows up to 18 players!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-04-01T08:43:04.963" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T08:43:04.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3636" CreationDate="2015-03-31T22:26:54.407" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After an attack on a true neutral country, allow your opponent to choose true neutrals to become pro-them equal to twice the IPC value of the violated neutral.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. If Germany attacks a neutral worth 3 IPCs, the allies may choose 6 IPCs of neutrals to become pro-allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This significantly reduces the negative consequences of violating neutrality while retaining some neutral backlash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12256" LastActivityDate="2015-03-31T22:26:54.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23638" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-03-31T23:16:02.130" Score="4" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have very fond memories of (Triple) Innistrad, which is an &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160322101530/http://blog.killgoldfish.com/2015/03/kill-reviews-innistrad-block.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;absolutely amazing draft format, probably without equal&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be able to have a playset that I can pull out, years from now, and draft amongst my friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want a complete set that also serves as a rough facsimile of drafting from packs, i.e. with a card distribution roughly similar to actual Limited rather than Cube — &lt;strong&gt;including both the rarity distribution and the chance to see multiples of various cards&lt;/strong&gt;, which is vital to actually being able to play the set in Limited as intended. I don't mind taking some time to set up &amp;quot;packs&amp;quot; before drafting or sort cards afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many copies of each card would I need, by rarity, to supply one draft pod (of 6-8 players), with a card distribution &lt;em&gt;roughly&lt;/em&gt; similar to a real draft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-12-06T14:56:48.550" LastActivityDate="2021-12-07T17:41:30.857" Title="How many cards do I need to make a collected set &quot;draftable?&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23638" CreationDate="2015-04-01T00:30:27.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you want to build your packs. If you plan to build proper packs then the choices are different than if you just want to grab random cards. The best experience would be from the former so I will go off it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The double faced cards were seeded from a sheet with a single mythic, two of each rare, six of each uncommon and eleven of each common. Although you could reduce the card count by half if you wanted without killing the chances too much (more Garruk and higher or lower common chance to taste). Pretty straightforward to reproduce for either 60 or 121 cards (mostly common).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your normal rare and mythic slot would be best served by one of each mythic and two of each rare, but you can design a system to reproduce the 1/8 ratio (remember there are 4 rares per mythic) such as using half the mythic cards you have before shuffling the rares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going to common and uncommon you probably want to drastically cut the number of copies. I would think two of each uncommon would be enough, although you could do three if you wanted that possibility. Similarly with commons four to six would work depending on how many dupes you want to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For simplicity I would either pick 1:1:2:4 or 1:1:3:5 for each card type and handle the various slots separately. Although once you have built this out (or have a tool to test) you could try just building normal packs from either ratio and see what rarity density you see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally if you wanted really good packs it may make sense to pre-seed each pack with a common of each color (or two cards of each color if not segregating by rarity). While that doesn't eliminate packs that suck for some people it does stop the &amp;quot;nothing in my color first pick&amp;quot; annoyance in cubes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-12-06T12:35:13.950" LastActivityDate="2021-12-06T12:35:13.950" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T04:32:49.210" Score="0" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Following up on a recent post, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I am looking for some clarification on the card Gleam of Authority. The wording on the card is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Enchantment - Aura&#xA;&#xA;Enchant Creature&#xA;&#xA;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for each +1/+1 counter on other creatures you control.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a tap ability to bolster and vigilance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem I'm seeing with adjusting continuously, is if multiple Gleam of authorities are played. Does this create an infinite loop? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12266" LastActivityDate="2015-04-01T04:32:49.210" Title="Using Multiple Gleam of Authority" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-01T04:44:32.797" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-01T23:31:35.110" Score="7" ViewCount="2281" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Cartoon Network Fluxx and have quickly become a big fan. I've been playing it a lot lately but we keep going back and forth on when the winning condition has been reached. Help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;1) Goal is Super Geniuses (Dexter + Mojo Jojo)&#xA;2) Dexter is on my side of the table&#xA;3) Mojo Jojo is in my hand&#xA;4) It is not my turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you play it and win instantly or do you wait your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say: &quot;The game continues until someone meets the conditions of the current Goal. That player wins instantly, &lt;strong&gt;no matter whose turn it is!&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion comes from whether having the second card in your hand (not on the table) is considered meeting the conditions of the current Goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think both cards must be on the table because the Goal rules say &quot;These cards show the specific Keepers you must have &lt;strong&gt;on the table in front of you&lt;/strong&gt; in order to win.&quot; but I don't totally disagree with the opposing theory that following that would make it much more difficult to win if you had a big group playing (only played with 2 so far) and thus it was likely never designed that way in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, so far we have followed the rule as &quot;wait until both are on the table&quot; but we still keep wondering if we're doing it wrong and we'd like to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is it &quot;no matter whose turn it is&quot; or is it &quot;on the table in front of you&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:54:56.720" Title="Fluxx - when is the winning condition reached?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23641" CreationDate="2015-04-01T23:40:48.220" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do you play it and win instantly or do you wait your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards have to be on the table, so in this case, sounds like you need to wait until your turn - you can't play the necessary Keeper when it's not your turn. Once you play it (on your turn), you win instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a different situation, though, you could win instantly, for example if the Goal changes into one whose conditions you already meet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So is it &quot;no matter whose turn it is&quot; or is it &quot;on the table in front of you&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's both; there's no contradiction. The rules say you win instantly, no matter whose turn it is, &lt;em&gt;when you meet the conditions of the Goal&lt;/em&gt;, and the conditions of the Goal are that the cards be on the table. The rules definitely don't say that if there's some way you can win instantly by breaking the rules (e.g. changing what the Goal means) you're allowed to do so!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T00:16:16.420" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T00:16:16.420" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23447" CreationDate="2015-04-02T09:50:06.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to assume that the core rules are not changed in some way by this expansion as I cannot find the rulebook online. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsofthemultiverse.com/system/files/downloads/Sentinels%20of%20the%20Multiverse%20Enhanced%20Edition%20Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;core rulebook&lt;/a&gt; has this to say on conflict resolution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Over the course of a game, there are situations in which multiple effects would occur simultaneously or have competing effects. In all situations, card effects that happen simultaneously occur in the order in which the card entered play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;Since Baahsto entered play first you should play each hero's top card first from his effect. Once that has resolved you should go through the effects (if any) of the hero cards in the order they were played (turn order).&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;In short: I was wrong, there is now an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_rules_and_clarifications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;errata&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant passage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Destroying a card before it’s finished&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a card is destroyed before it can finish its effect, any remaining effect is cancelled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, Ra has his “Flame Barrier” out, and a villain target deals&#xA;  all hero targets damage. The players decide to target Ra first, and Ra&#xA;  immediately retaliates, dealing enough damage to destroy the&#xA;  attacker. With the attacking target gone, there is nothing to continue&#xA;  dealing damage to the rest of the hero targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So destroying Baahsto stops the remaining hero(es) from drawing a card from their deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="7151" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T12:02:18.047" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:02:18.047" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23608" CreationDate="2015-04-02T11:41:50.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own question: In fact, the event card rules are printed in the rulebook from the beginning, not revealed in an envelope. I wasn't able to review the rulebook until my group met again to play, but I'm glad that I checked for it there in time to play correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12232" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T11:41:50.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23641" CreationDate="2015-04-02T12:42:48.627" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Goals are typically worded as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player with the X and the Y &lt;strong&gt;on the table&lt;/strong&gt; wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one of the required keepers is &lt;strong&gt;in your hand&lt;/strong&gt;, you don't meet the goal's conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instant you do meet the goal's condition (i.e. the instant you play the missing keeper), you will win, but you can't just spontaneously play the card. You can normally only play cards on your turn (although there could very well be cards that allow you to play out of turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can win when it's not your turn, but not in the specified scenario. You could win when it's not your turn if someone changes the goal and you &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; have the necessary keepers on the table, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OrRrr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Sample Goal cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-02T13:54:56.720" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T13:54:56.720" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23648" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T20:34:15.523" Score="23" ViewCount="17446" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card does not say anything about whether or not the property is mortgaged.  Also, it does not say anything like &quot;twice what is entitled&quot; like the similar railroad card does.  I would go with you still have to pay, but I'm looking for backup to my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what the card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Advance token to nearest Utility. If unowned, you may buy it from the Bank. If owned, throw dice and pay owner a total ten times the amount thrown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1211" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T20:46:11.137" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T20:00:14.060" Title="Do you still pay 10x the dice when getting the chance card that takes you to the nearest utility if the property is mortgaged?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-02T20:57:06.533" Score="1" ViewCount="5069" Body="&lt;p&gt;What to do when you don't have a card to discard to end your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, what happens when you lay down a skip card? Does the color change to what the next player lays down or do you have to use the color played before the skip card was played?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12278" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2021-11-22T16:30:54.927" LastActivityDate="2021-11-22T16:30:54.927" Title="Phase 10, no card to discard to end the turn" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23649" CreationDate="2015-04-02T21:18:45.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a discard during the game, it means you have played all of your cards, so the round ends. You can end the round either by discarding your final card, or by playing all cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color doesn't change in Phase 10. Perhaps you are thinking of Uno rules? You can discard any card you like; the color doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-04-02T21:18:45.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23654" CreationDate="2015-04-03T07:30:24.293" Score="5" ViewCount="71803" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding of Mahjong is that you need four players. Is that right? Or is it possible to play with 2 or 3? &#xA;If so, can anyone assist with a link to the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12171" LastActivityDate="2022-11-30T08:13:35.167" Title="Two player mahjong?" Tags="|mahjong|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23653" CreationDate="2015-04-03T12:22:20.840" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;These &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastersgames.com/rules/mah-jong-rules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; have 2 and 3 person variant rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes you can play with 2 or 3 people as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the relevant rule changes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two-Player Mah Jong&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is good practice for beginners although not quite such a good game as the more typical version with 4 players. One player plays East, the other West. The preliminaries are conducted in the same way as for the 4 player game, 4 walls are built and the game starts with East's discard. The game continues as with the standard game but with the following differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No chows are allowed and therefore before either player can go Mah Jong, the player must gather four doubles or be entitled to the limit or half-limit score.&#xA;  When scoring, East Wind neither pays nor receives double.&#xA;  When scoring, the player going Mah Jong has a lower score than the player's opponent, the player with the Mah Jong receives the normal total score plus the difference between the scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Three-Player Mah Jong&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are two main ways to play three-player Mah Jong. One common way to play is with four walls but to have the North wind position as a 'dummy'. The alternative is to play with 3 walls in a triangle. The 'dummy' method results in a satisfactory game but there are a number of special rules that are required and Masters Traditional Games believes that the triangular game for three players is simpler and more elegant and so that is our recommendation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In South East Asia, Triangular Mah Jong is so popular that there are companies who make special triangular Mah Jong tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triangular Mah Jong for 3 players eliminates the North position completely and the 4 North wind tiles are removed from the set before starting so that a set of 132 tiles are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The walls therefore consist of 22 stacks (44 tiles) in a triangle shape and there are 3 hands in each round and 3 or 4 rounds as agreed. Other than that, the game is played in the same way as for 4 player Mah Jong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If flowers and seasons are included, one season and one flower is removed, usually Winter and Bamboo tiles so that 138 tiles are used and each wall consists of 23 stacks (46 tiles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T12:22:20.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23655" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="58851" CreationDate="2015-04-03T13:02:57.060" Score="11" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some things that I can remember:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a castle with 3 rooms. There are tree treasures in each of the rooms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum about 4 players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone plays as a Ghost and others as people&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ghost is hunting on humans and may kill them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are some cards with some actions, players should do that actions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goal: visit all three rooms in a castle, gather 3 treasures from each and leave the castle. Ghost's goal: kill all people before they leave the castle with treasures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gameplay: each player roll the dice, moves his chip on a map. Some cells may has some specific rules (extramoves, take a card. etc).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Initially I played it in Belarus and I'm not sure if it was just a localized version of an existing game or if it was invented there and is only played in Ex-USSR region.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some pictures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DX9W2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FUJGE.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12284" LastActivityDate="2023-06-06T20:11:53.800" Title="Help identify an old board game with three rooms in a castle and a ghost" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23649" CreationDate="2015-04-03T13:12:46.647" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience if you don't have a discard, you're out of the game. Some variations allow you to still compete for snaps though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12285" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T13:12:46.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23669" CreationDate="2015-04-03T14:59:08.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1273" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you could build a structure for free (thanks to the chain noted on the card), may you choose &lt;em&gt;not to&lt;/em&gt; and use resources (whether your own or bought from your neighbours) to build it instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is relevant for cases where you would &lt;em&gt;earn&lt;/em&gt; money when &quot;buying&quot; from your neighbours, or where you would have to pay taxes when using the chain (&lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; tile 13).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:45:26.670" Title="May you choose *not* to use the free construction chain?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23657" CreationDate="2015-04-03T14:59:08.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(I’m not sure about this interpretation and welcome insight/corrections.)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say about &quot;Free Construction (Chains)&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;English PDF, page 4&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some structures in Age II and Age III have, to the right of their resource&#xA;  cost, the name of a structure of a previous age.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  If the player has built the structure named there during a previous Age,&#xA;  that player can build the structure for free, meaning without having to&#xA;  fulfill the resource cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says &quot;can build&quot; (instead of &quot;has to&quot; or &quot;must&quot;), so I guess you are free &lt;em&gt;not to&lt;/em&gt; use the chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T14:59:08.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23659" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T15:16:11.810" Score="4" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;May you choose &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to use your own resources and buy them from your neighbours instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is relevant for cases where you would &lt;em&gt;earn&lt;/em&gt; money when &quot;buying&quot; from your neighbours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say about &quot;Resource Cost&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;English PDF, page 4&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cards have a resource cost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  To construct them, the player must produce the corresponding resources&#xA;  AND/OR buy them from one of his or her two neighboring cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And about &quot;Commerce&quot; (same page):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Often, a player will want to build a structure requiring resources he or &#xA;  she does not produce.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  If these resources are produced by a neighboring city – players sitting &#xA;  directly to the left or right of that player – the player will be able to purchase the missing resource(s) through commerce. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn’t seem to address this case explicitly, and I can’t deduce it from this wording. I guess the &quot;AND/OR&quot; was meant for different cases (e.g., that you can &lt;em&gt;combine&lt;/em&gt; both ways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T19:11:47.367" Title="May you choose *not* to use your own resources and buy them instead?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4074" CreationDate="2015-04-03T15:36:43.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/4076/3532&quot;&gt;thesunneversets’ answer&lt;/a&gt; is correct, and here’s a quote from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;official FAQ&#xA;&lt;/a&gt; to confirm it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Can I buy the resource from a card played this turn by a player next to me?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: No, the only resources which can be used are those which were available&#xA;  before the card was played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T15:36:43.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21400" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:22:29.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/21415/3532&quot;&gt;Adama’s answer&lt;/a&gt; is correct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it’s missing in the English &lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; rules, it’s explicitly stated in the German &lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; rules (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;German PDF, page 7&lt;/a&gt;, bold emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for the &quot;construct a Building for free&quot; token:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Der Spieler erhält den abgebildeten Marker aus dem Vorrat. Er kann diesen &lt;strong&gt;in einem der folgenden Zeitalter&lt;/strong&gt; abgeben, um ein Gebäude ohne den Einsatz von Ressourcen oder Münzen zu errichten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;for the &quot;construct a Stage of their Wonder for free&quot; token:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Der Spieler erhält den abgebildeten Marker aus dem Vorrat. Er kann diesen &lt;strong&gt;in einem der folgenden Zeitalter&lt;/strong&gt; abgeben, um einen Bauabschnitt seines Weltwunders ohne den Einsatz von Ressourcen zu vollenden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part &quot;in einem der folgenden Zeitalter&quot; translates to &quot;in one of the following Ages&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T16:22:29.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23662" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:34:13.333" Score="3" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; rules, under the section &quot;Playing with the other expansions&quot;, it says (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;English PDF, page 7&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you play with the Tower of Babel expansion, the effect of tiles 19 and 22 also apply to Conflict tokens from the Great Projects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tile 19 modifies the &quot;taking of military Victory tokens&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tile 22 modifies the &quot;taking of military Defeat tokens&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the Great Projects expansion has a reward token where you get Victory tokens (so the effect of tile 19 is clear), there is no reward nor penality token where you get Defeat tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when would the effect of tile 22 &quot;apply to Conflict tokens from the Great Projects&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:50:30.947" Title="How does the effect of tile 22 (from Tower of Babel) apply to tokens (from Great Projects)?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-babel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23665" CreationDate="2015-04-03T16:58:26.690" Score="0" ViewCount="3418" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a (hopefully) quick question, there are several abilities that can be cast 'only as a sorcery', like a planeswalkers loyalty, or the Outlast ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can these be used multiple times in one turn, if not forbidden (i.e. because the card is tapped)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8274" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:45:45.163" Title="Question about '...only as a sorcery.' abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23663" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:29:09.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Activated abilities can be activated as many times as you like as long as you can pay the cost. However, Planeswalkers' abilities have their own rules that say you can only activate them once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:29:09.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23663" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:45:45.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability text &quot;Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery&quot; only affects &lt;strong&gt;when&lt;/strong&gt; you can activate it, not how many times or anything else. Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;602.5d&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Activated abilities that read &quot;Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery&quot; mean the player must follow the &lt;strong&gt;timing rules for casting a sorcery spell&lt;/strong&gt;, though the ability isn't actually a sorcery. The player doesn't actually need to have a sorcery card that he or she could cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Outlast ability can be confusing because the reminder text is worded &quot;Activate only as a sorcery,&quot; but that is just because the wording is shortened to fit in reminder text. The full wording of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Outlast&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Outlast rule&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Outlast is an activated ability. &quot;Outlast [cost]&quot; means “[Cost], {T}: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. &lt;strong&gt;Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery&lt;/strong&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers have &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Planeswalker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their own rule&lt;/a&gt; that specifically forbids activating their abilities more than once per turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;306.5d&lt;/strong&gt; Each planeswalker has a number of loyalty abilities, which are activated abilities with loyalty symbols in their costs. &lt;strong&gt;Loyalty abilities follow special rules&lt;/strong&gt;: A player may activate a loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but &lt;strong&gt;only if none of that permanent’s loyalty abilities have been activated that turn&lt;/strong&gt;. See rule 606, &quot;Loyalty Abilities.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:45:45.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23666" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23668" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:49:04.040" Score="3" ViewCount="6011" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kolaghan%2C%20the%20storm%27s%20Fury&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kolaghan, The Storm's Fury&lt;/a&gt;'s ability trigger for &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; dragon attacking or &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; dragons attacking? For reference it says &quot;Whenever a dragon you control attacks, creatures you control gain +1/+0 until end of turn&quot;. If I attack with two dragons, do my creatures get +2/+0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T17:58:09.003" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:09:48.893" Title="Kolaghan, The Storm's Fury dragon attacking ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23662" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:50:30.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite not having, yet, a Project that hands out defeat tokens as penalties, the phrase &quot;&lt;em&gt;apply to Conflict tokens from the Great Projects&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is still in the rules just in case a relevant Great Project will be released, either as a promo or in a future expansion. That's my best guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T17:50:30.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23666" CreationDate="2015-04-03T17:52:05.097" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kolaghan's ability triggers for each Dragon attacking, so if you attack with two Dragons, your creatures get +2/+0 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 603.2c&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, &lt;strong&gt;it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking with two Dragons is two instances of &amp;quot;attack with a Dragon,&amp;quot; so after they are both declared as attackers, the ability triggers once for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no ruling on Kolaghan specifying this, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beastmaster%20Ascension&quot;&gt;Beastmaster Ascension&lt;/a&gt; has the same wording, and a ruling that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attack with multiple creatures, Beastmaster Ascension's first ability triggers multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This contrasts with abilities like the one on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightmine%20Field&quot;&gt;Lightmine Field&lt;/a&gt;, which triggers when &amp;quot;one or more creatures attack.&amp;quot; Lightmine Field's ability would only trigger once when two Dragons attack, because that is a single instance of &amp;quot;one or more creatures&amp;quot; attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-03T18:09:48.893" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:09:48.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23657" CreationDate="2015-04-03T18:45:26.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As correctly stated by @unor, you may opt not to use the chain building, but normally pay for resources (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English Rules, p. 4&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the player has built the structure named there during a previous Age, that player &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; build the structure for free, meaning without having to fulfill the resource cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both French and German rules confirm the above. The German rules are even more elaborate, as they state (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;German Rules, p. 4&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wenn der Spieler, der das Gebäude errichten möchte, auch das auf der Karte erwähnte andere Gebäude aus dem vorangegangenen Zeitalter in seiner Stadt besitzt, &lt;strong&gt;muss er die Kosten nicht bezahlen&lt;/strong&gt;, sondern kann das Gebäude kostenfrei bauen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(English) When the player, who wants to construct a building, has also other buildings from a previous Age mentioned on the card that already exist in his city, he &lt;strong&gt;does not have to&lt;/strong&gt; pay the cost, since he &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; construct the building free of charge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was obligatory, the German rules would state &lt;code&gt;darf er die Kosten nicht bezahlen&lt;/code&gt;, i.e., &lt;code&gt;must not pay the cost&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be noted, however, that when you're playing the &quot;Free City&quot; 2-player variant, the Free City &lt;strong&gt;has&lt;/strong&gt; to use chain building, if the chosen card benefits from one (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English Rules, p. 7&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the card chosen for the Free city can benefit from a free construction (chain), this free construction &lt;strong&gt;MUST&lt;/strong&gt; be performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The existence of this rule in the 2-player variant merely confirms that during the normal game (3-8 players) you may either choose the chain or build normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that, if you're playing a Team game, you are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; allowed to purchase resources from your teammate, if you can build a structure through chain (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English &quot;City&quot; Rules, p. 10&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is forbidden for the teammates to :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;share coins,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;trade cards,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;not pay for commerce between them,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;buy resources from each other while they can build a structure through a chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you are not able to buy resources that you can already produce, but only the resources you're missing (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English Rules, p. 4&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Often, a player will want to build a structure requiring resources he or&#xA;  she does not produce. If these resources are produced by a neighboring city – players sitting directly to the left or right of that player – the player will be able to purchase the missing resource(s) through commerce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also confirmed by the &quot;City&quot; expansion rules (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English &quot;City&quot; Rules, p. 10&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player must use their own resource before buying one from their neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-03T18:45:26.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23659" CreationDate="2015-04-04T17:27:03.657" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated by the rules (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English Rules, p. 4&lt;/a&gt;), you're required to use your own resources first and buy the missing afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Often, a player will want to build a structure requiring resources he or she does not produce. If these resources are produced by a neighboring city – players sitting directly to the left or right of that player – the player will be able to purchase the &lt;strong&gt;missing&lt;/strong&gt; resource(s) through commerce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also confirmed by the &quot;City&quot; expansion rules (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;English City Rules, p. 10&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player must use their own resource before buying one from their neighbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is stated under &quot;Team Play&quot;, but it states &quot;neighbors&quot;, instead of just &quot;teammates&quot;, like other similar rules, so I assume it's a more general rule. In any case, the base-game rules are quite clear on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T17:27:03.657" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23672" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-04T19:02:48.520" Score="5" ViewCount="7268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I was playing ninja-mages deck. After I gained 14 points my deck run out of cards.&#xA;What should I do when I can't draw cards anymore? (because my deck is empty)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12290" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T22:55:59.627" Title="smash up? run out of cards" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3134" CreationDate="2015-04-04T22:33:14.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My memory is that Bezerk units must move including into an enemy hex the maximum movement points during movement phase towards nearest enemy in hexes.  Then they get triple fire in Advanced fire phase if they survive Defensive fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the advance during advance phase was removed, then that would make there movement bonus not really a bonus.  And sometimes a penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the current rules say, they should be able to advance, and adding CX penalties is wrong also, being Bezerk, that extra 2 movement points is the bonus of not hesitating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure what the newer versions of rules might say on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12291" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T22:33:14.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23672" CreationDate="2015-04-04T22:55:59.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is covered on page 4 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you need to draw or reveal a card and your &#xA;  deck is empty, shuffle your discard pile. Put it on &#xA;  the table face down—that’s your new deck. Start &#xA;  drawing from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have no discard pile as well, that would be a very odd game!  I've never seen a game go anywhere near that situation though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-04-04T22:55:59.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23676" CreationDate="2015-04-04T23:37:01.130" Score="1" ViewCount="2161" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394632&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Myth Realized&lt;/a&gt; lets you pay {W} to turn it into a creature until end of turn. My question is...  if I turn it into a creature on my turn and attack, can I also block with it on my opponents turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-05T06:42:48.347" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T04:52:31.243" Title="Can I block with Myth Realized if I attacked with it on my turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23675" CreationDate="2015-04-04T23:58:46.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  As a creature, it still taps to attack, so barring some other action, it will remain tapped (turning it back into a creature will not untap it) and can't block on your opponents turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastEditorUserId="10399" LastEditDate="2015-04-05T00:04:18.217" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T00:04:18.217" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23679" CreationDate="2015-04-05T02:07:00.477" Score="3" ViewCount="403" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our family, we've always interpreted the rules as paying to the bank. We had friends over who had played by Warlord paying to the player whose buildings they got destroyed. To us, it seems like the latter weakened the Warlord special ability quite significantly. I could not find an FAQ that would explain where the money goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1671" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T08:52:44.013" Title="Who does the Warlord pay to -- the bank or the player who had their buildings destroyed?" Tags="|house-rules|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-05T03:07:40.523" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of cards that have two different actions.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt; is one of them.  I assume these separate actions are in sequence, and cannot be responded to by placing items on the stack in between the steps.  But, I can't confirm that in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game situation in which this came up (in case this helps explain &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; one would want to do this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lion%20Eye%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Lion Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt; on the table, and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ponder&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt;.  Ponder resolves, I draw my three cards, and put them back on top of the deck.  The top of the library is now a game winner if I can get 3 more mana.  [Say it's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coalition%20Victory&quot;&gt;Coalition Victory&lt;/a&gt; but I only have RWGUB available and meet all other requirements] So, would like to fire off the Lion's Eye Diamond before I perform the second step of Ponder and draw that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Lion's Eye Diamond can only be activated at instant speed (see the link) even though in all other ways it is a mana source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I win this game this turn?  [assuming no counter spells of course...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T03:07:40.523" Title="Are the two steps of Ponder an atomic action?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-04-05T03:30:00.110" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23677" CreationDate="2015-04-05T08:52:44.013" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two reasons to conclude you pay to the bank:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook doesn't say that you have to pay to the bank when &lt;strong&gt;building&lt;/strong&gt; a district. This is assumed because it wouldn't make sense otherwise. Similarly, if the rulebook doesn't say whom to pay to &lt;strong&gt;destroy&lt;/strong&gt;, then I assume it must go to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The warlord can destroy one of it's own district if he wants to replace it. The warlord still has to pay the amount, which then obviously would not go to himself but to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12066" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T08:52:44.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23681" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-05T13:35:38.470" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine a scenario where player A is the Witch and is in the lead (has the most gold). Player B knows that player A is the witch. On player B's turn, she declares that she is the witch. If no-one challenges, then the ability is activated and player B will swap her gold pile with player A. If player A challenges, then she will win the challenge. When the ability is activated, player A will have to swap her gold pile with another player, but because she is in the lead she will end up with less gold than before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, can player A choose not to use the ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T14:41:41.103" Title="Can you choose whether to use a character's ability after declaring or challenging?" Tags="|mascarade|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23681" CreationDate="2015-04-05T14:41:41.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you have to use the ability. According to the rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/MASCARADE_RULES_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English Rules, p. 7&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one of the players is indeed the announced character, that player&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;immediately uses&lt;/strong&gt; the character’s power (which can happen outside of their&#xA;  turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they don't state &quot;may use&quot;, it's mandatory. In your case, Player A correctly challenged Player B, as he denied the latter getting the lead, which could be disastrous if Player B has a coin-generating character (King, Bishop, etc). At least, like that, Player A can choose to swap with a player who can't win, even with the lead, i.e., he has the Spy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T14:41:41.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2015-04-05T15:20:49.150" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tweaking with the starting deck is a handicap that scales on most Kingdom setups and, in particular, &lt;strong&gt;replacing Copper(s) with Silver(s)&lt;/strong&gt;. Before analyzing this, here is why some other handicaps would not work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deduct points: it's simple to apply, but not simple to design it, as it's arbitrary. You have to decide before the start of the game, but on what basis are you going to decide it? -1 point? -5 points? -10 points? If you have Colony-kingdoms with trashing and no Curses, 1-5 points would do no difference. On the other hand, in a game with Sea Hag / Ambassador every point would count. It's still a handicap I would recommend if you'd like something quick and dirty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Insert curses between reshuffles: that's too much of a handicap, I wouldn't enjoy the game in the first place. Moreover, it would make Cursers, like the Witch, lose their power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let your opponents open 5/2; still depends on the Kingdom. If Mountebank/Chapel exist, it's indeed a good opener; on the other hand, if Ambassador is in the game, it hurts not to purchase him first turn. What is more, that's the &quot;softest&quot; handicap, as you can easily overcome an opponent's 5/2 opening, if you're more experienced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Action limiting, extra virtual money per turn, etc, are difficult to monitor and enforce.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra turns is something that could work actually, but you have to keep track of them and it lengthens the game a bit. However, they could be a very good equivalent of what I'm proposing below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As follows, you need something simple. Tweaking with the starting deck is easy to apply and does not alter much the flow of the gameplay. Even so, tweaking with the starting deck is not trivial and should be done with care. Here are some common/proposed handicaps which I feel they wouldn't work in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Replace your starting Estates with Curses / Give your opponents Duchies instead of Estates. This would have an impact in Remodel/Salvager/Bishop-oriented games; or in Duke games, the extra Duchy could indeed determine the game. But other than these cases, it wouldn't make a difference. A solid play would be able to bridge these differences in little time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give your opponents 8 Coppers and 4 Estates; that's worse actually than the original starting deck. Not only you're giving them two extra bad cards, but you're also slowing down their deck cycling. Even just giving them an extra Copper would be bad.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it all comes down to: &lt;strong&gt;replace some Coppers with Silvers&lt;/strong&gt;. This has the following advantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even with just a single extra Silver, in lieu of a Copper, your opponent may be able to buy earlier a crucial Gold, or a key 5-cost card and play them before you do. This earlier power shall help them avoid buying unnecessary weak cards (Spy, Councilor, Woodcutter) and get them buying Provinces earlier. It's a serious advantage, which however is not impossible to overcome; if the experience gap is considerable, it will give the experienced player a challenging, but not impossible-to-win game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I consider this more-or-less equivalent to the extra turns. If you give extra turns to your opponents, they can buy and use earlier some key cards, like Moneylender, Witch or even just the Silver. However, it's much easier to control and it plays faster. Only difference, that they have a few worse cards in their decks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can very easy &lt;strong&gt;adjust the difficulty level&lt;/strong&gt;. If you're feeling you need a serious handicap, give them 2 or 3 Silvers, instead of Coppers; if you need a lighter handicap, one Silver would do the job and you'll still see a difference even with one Silver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Easy to set up, doesn't affect your own deck (barring some earlier curses that might arrive) and doesn't disrupt the flow of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T15:20:49.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23659" CreationDate="2015-04-05T19:11:47.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the BoardGameGeek thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/967027/choosing-pay-resources&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Choosing to pay for resources&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, the user &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/12094378#12094378&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jacek Deimer says he has asked the designer (Antoine Bauza)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2a. Can you decide to buy resource instead of using your own resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2a. You have to use your own resources in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I could not verify if this source/quote is accurate.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in the same message the designer answered that you &amp;quot;have to build for free if you can&amp;quot;, but in the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/23657/3532&quot;&gt;May you choose *not* to use the free construction chain?&lt;/a&gt; we came to the conclusion (based on the rules) that you &lt;em&gt;don’t&lt;/em&gt; have to build for free. So I’m not sure what to make of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-05T19:11:47.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1939" CreationDate="2015-04-05T23:19:46.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I do to play with five or more is double the supply and make it so six piles are gone instead of the normal three are gone. And double victory points cards like estates, duches and province cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are still the same but at least everyone has fun. I play with at least 10 people at my local game shop. And I also have all the expansions plus an app on my phone with tells me which cards to play with. I run the app twice to give me twice as much cards to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12296" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T22:09:18.503" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:09:18.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T00:01:15.350" Score="1" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Bang! Gold Rush extension, the players who had been killed previously keep on playing as shadow gunslingers. If all players but the sheriff and renegade are killed, the dead outlaws have no aim any more, as if the sheriff stays alive they don't win, but if the renegade stays alive they still lose. What happens then? What should the outlaws do? Who should they shoot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T04:08:58.997" Title="Bang! final battle" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T03:03:05.607" Score="4" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good deck construction minimizes luck. I am about to enter my first tournament (Pauper). In addition to testing my deck against other decks in actual games, I simulate initial hands and first few cards using deckbox.org to help to fine tune it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is clear from simulation that I would have to mulligan at least a quarter of my hands. I would assume that beyond a certain mulligan percentage, a deck cannot possibly be competitive in a Pauper tournament. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While there may be special cases where a mulligan does not confer much of a disadvantage, let's assume for the purpose of this question that this deck is average in the sense that each time the initial hand is decreased by a card, it hurts chances of winning quite a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond what percentage of hands requiring mulligan would a deck be considered non-competitive? If someone has actually studied this question statistically, please provide a link to the study.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T15:22:42.427" Title="When testing a deck, what % of rejected hands is acceptable?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:03:09.717" Score="5" ViewCount="2349" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; during my turn (3 damage to target creature or player) to kill a face down creature. Then, my opponent said he was going to morph the creature which was a 0/5 defender with flying (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Monastery%20Flock&quot;&gt;Monastery Flock&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can my opponent morph a dead creature, or does morphing the creature save it because it is a 0/5 and Lightning Bolt only deals 3 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12298" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T23:48:32.663" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T05:41:24.053" Title="If I try to kill a face down creature, can my opponent save it by flipping it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23686" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:08:58.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They still have the same goal to kill the sheriff as on their turn they are back in the game and in the situation you are describing it is temporally a 3 player game again when it is a shadow players turn. Which means that on an outlaws turn if they kill the sheriff then the outlaws win. It doesn't matter that they where a shadow player because during their turn they considered alive and in the game just that they can't gain or lose life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a section of the gold rush rules which points out that you are in the game at the start of your shadow turn and that you leave the game at the end of your shadow turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang_gold_rush/bang!_gold_rush_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang_gold_rush/bang!_gold_rush_rules.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During each of your following turns (that is, each time it would have been&#xA;  your turn if you were still in the game) you temporarily re-enter the&#xA;  game as a “shadow-gunslinger”— a “shadow-Deputy,” “shadow-Outlaw,”&#xA;  or “shadow-Renegade,” respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a shadow-gunslinger, you have zero life points. You draw 2 cards, play&#xA;  your turn as normal, and then leave the game again. During your turn, you&#xA;  play as if you were still alive, with all your abilities. But, you cannot gain or&#xA;  lose life points (you ignore the effects of any cards of this type). At the end&#xA;  of your turn, you exit the game again, and must discard all of your cards&#xA;  in hand and in play (including any equipment cards you bought that turn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T04:08:58.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23688" CreationDate="2015-04-06T04:20:53.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes morphing will save it because your opponent will get a chance to respond after you cast your spell and there is a ruling related to morphing the card that would apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any time you have priority, you may turn the face-down creature face up by revealing what its morph cost is and paying that cost. This is a special action. It doesn’t use the stack and can’t be responded to. Only a face-down permanent can be turned face up this way; a face-down spell cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this would allow him to morph it and turn it into a 0/5 creature which would save it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2019-12-12T05:41:24.053" LastActivityDate="2019-12-12T05:41:24.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23691" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T06:50:38.233" Score="-1" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keranos%2C%20God%20of%20Storms&quot;&gt;Keranos, God of Storms&lt;/a&gt;. I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fated%20Infatuation&quot;&gt;Fated Infatuation&lt;/a&gt;, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put a token onto the battlefield that's a copy of target creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I copy Keranos as it is a mythic rare and have both survive, or would this force them both to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T14:15:49.897" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T14:15:49.897" Title="If I copy a mythic rare, will both survive?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23691" CreationDate="2015-04-06T07:00:52.710" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The copy will have all Keranos's copiable values, so it will be a&#xA;Legendary Enchantment Creature — God: Keranos, God of Storms. Due to the legend rule, you will have to choose which one stays on the battlefield, and which goes to your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;706.2.&lt;/strong&gt; When copying an object, the copy acquires the copiable values of the original object’s characteristics ... The “copiable values” are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being &lt;strong&gt;name&lt;/strong&gt;, mana cost, color indicator, &lt;strong&gt;card type, subtype, supertype&lt;/strong&gt;, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5k&lt;/strong&gt; If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “legend rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not care about card rarity. You can have as many of the same Mythic permanents on the battlefield as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T13:11:50.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23693" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23696" CreationDate="2015-04-06T07:03:43.493" Score="0" ViewCount="2430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that this idea is a bit ridiculous but my friend insists that: because of ambiguity in the rules, it is perfectly legitimate to build roads 'through' settlements. In case 'through' is unclear, let me explain through an example: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, say that we have our hexagonal board piece. Now, we have two settlements, one towards the top, another towards the bottom. Now, the bottom settlement wants to build roads, so it starts building around this same hexagon. Now, my question: can you build a road that 'passes through' the other settlement to complete the loop?&lt;Br&gt;&#xA;Also, can you please reference the language in the rules? (My friend is &lt;em&gt;extremely&lt;/em&gt; stubborn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am trying to get a visual example, sadly I am nowhere near a board. I'll get the picture ASAP. Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12301" LastEditorUserId="12301" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T07:39:15.383" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T12:31:50.363" Title="Settlers of Catan: Building Roads 'Through' Settlements" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-04-06T13:32:47.237" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T07:14:20.347" Score="2" ViewCount="6836" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent enchants my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellheart%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Spellheart Chimera&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Encrust&quot;&gt;Encrust&lt;/a&gt;, will Encrust be counted towards my devotion or his?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for devotion towards my god, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keranos%2C%20God%20of%20Storms&quot;&gt;Keranos, God of Storms&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12300" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-06T14:18:39.890" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T14:18:39.890" Title="Do enchantments played by my opponent on creatures I control count towards my devotion?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23694" CreationDate="2015-04-06T07:28:01.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's have a look at what devotion is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Devotion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A numerical value a player has, equal to the number of mana symbols of a certain color among the mana costs of &lt;strong&gt;permanents that player controls&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that Encrust is attached to your Chimera does not make you its controller. Your opponent still controls the enchantment, so Encrust will count towards your opponent's devotion to blue. You can take control of enemy's Enchantments with something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83037&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Confiscate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T12:30:43.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23693" CreationDate="2015-04-06T12:31:50.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason it is no, is because when you build something new (except for the set up rounds) you need to build roads and settlements connected to something you have already built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you reach someone else's settlement with a road, it 'fills' up the intersection and by building a road past you would be trying to build onto their settlement not your road.  It works the other way too, if you have a long road and someone build a road to an open intersection on your road they can build a settlement on the end of their road and thus split your road into two.  So this is a reason not to go crazy building roads without settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T12:31:50.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23694" CreationDate="2015-04-06T12:51:39.270" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Encrust will count toward your opponent's devotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because your opponent is the controller of Encrust, and Devotion looks at the mana symbols in the costs of permanents each player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4e An Aura’s controller is separate from the enchanted object’s controller or the enchanted player; the two need not be the same. If an Aura enchants an object, changing control of the object doesn’t change control of the Aura, and vice versa. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T12:51:39.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T15:46:46.890" Score="1" ViewCount="740" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is often easier to answer questions about Magic experimentally instead of mathematically. Anyone can see the final standing of a deck in a tournament and find out who piloted it. &lt;a href=&quot;https://old.starcitygames.com/decks/results/formats_all/All/start_date/27-03-2015/end_date/29-03-2015/city/Richmond/w_perc/0/g_perc/0/r_perc/0/b_perc/0/u_perc/0/a_perc/0/order_1/finish/limit/25/start_num/0/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is an example.&lt;/a&gt; However, there is some data I cannot find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mulligans taken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games played&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Games on the play&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Final life totals per game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this data exist for DCI sanctioned Constructed tournaments? If so, where can I find it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MTGGoldfish has information, but they only appear to cover Limited formats. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtggoldfish.com/limited/analysis/draft/ktk_ktk_ktk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is their page&lt;/a&gt; covering Khans of Tarkir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T18:39:41.510" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T18:39:41.510" Title="Where can I find raw data for DCI sanctioned Constructed tournaments?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23702" CreationDate="2015-04-06T16:45:45.433" Score="2" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is prompted by the iOS implementation of the game by Playdek, so it may just be a flaw in the game, but I'm just checking to make sure there isn't some rule that I'm not aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the scenario: &quot;Delver's Folly&quot; and &quot;The Palace of Waterdeep&quot; are in play. I already have an agent on The Palace from a previous turn. (The Palace allows you to place the Ambassador at the start of the next turn.) It's my turn and I place an agent on Delver's Folly, which then allows me to place a corruption token on any action space. I want to place the token on The Palace, but when I do so, the game pops up a message that says &quot;You will not receive the Ambassador. Are you sure you want to take this action?&quot; It sounds like this will negate my previous play of putting an agent on The Palace, but that doesn't make any sense to me. Is there some reason this should be the case, or is this likely a flaw in the iOS version of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T16:00:33.280" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T16:00:33.280" Title="In Lords of Waterdeep on iOS, why does placing a corruption token on The Palace of Waterdeep indicate you won't get to take the Ambassador?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|ios|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23698" CreationDate="2015-04-06T17:33:33.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of offline (non-MTGO) information, the only data point that is brought away from a tournament match is the match record - mulligans, die-roll winners, and life totals are not processed in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are not any resources online with general match records (i.e. how often matches end 2-0, etc.) that I am aware of. You can go into the archives of GPs and parse the information from the round results pages if you wanted to, but that's likely about it. I'm confident WotC has the capability to derive this type of information internally, but the data for more global audiences to derive it is not public. (nor would WotC likely make such data public)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The site you linked gets it's information by monitoring Magic Online and recording metadata based on games played there - there's definitely more data there, but you'd need to keep in mind that MTGO and paper Magic may have different results for different events, especially when you take into account the difference in draw procedures, and the occasional prevalence of decks in paper Magic which cannot be effectively piloted on MTGO. (or vice versa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10312" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T17:33:33.457" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2015-04-06T17:46:14.087" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Similar to the Event Cards and Deck of Dice, there's also Dice Cards:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/games/dice-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/games/dice-cards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12304" LastActivityDate="2015-04-06T17:46:14.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23699" CreationDate="2015-04-06T19:54:17.197" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted the question to Playdek support. They said it is a bug in the UI. The message is intended for when an agent is assigned to The Place after someone else has already taken the Ambassador, but before they've had a chance to use it. In that case, the player assigning the new agent does not get to take the Ambassador (see page 22). It is incorrectly being displayed when placing a corruption token (probably any cube) on The Palace. They said selecting &quot;yes&quot; would have worked correctly, i.e. it would not have canceled the earlier play (I had already made an alternate move, so I couldn't confirm), and that it should be fixed in a future release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T15:56:03.590" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T15:56:03.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23703" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23710" CreationDate="2015-04-06T21:54:33.813" Score="2" ViewCount="815" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the Cook has the ability called Scrounger that in the rules states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrounger&lt;/strong&gt;: Discard 2 Determination tokens to reroll any gray Action&#xA;  die. Note! You cannot use the Determination tokens gained from an&#xA;  unsuccessful die roll to reroll that die which gave you those&#xA;  Determination tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this brings two questions to mind for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can the cook use his ability to reroll a gray die that was rolled by another player or can that only be on his rolls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Since it says &quot;&lt;em&gt;Note! You cannot use the determination tokens gained from an unsuccessful die roll to reroll that die which gave you those determination tokens&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, does that mean if you already have 2 tokens you can gain the two from the unsuccessful roll and the 2 you already had to then reroll the die? Which would leave you at 2 tokens and the rerolling the die. This seems to me to be not the case but had a friend saying the logic was there. However it seems to me there is not a downside to rolling unsuccessful the first time provided you have 2 tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11543" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T12:01:17.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T12:01:17.297" Title="Couple questions about rerolls" Tags="|robinson-crusoe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-06T22:31:32.527" Score="8" ViewCount="1752" Body="&lt;p&gt;See the photo for context. My boys had a dispute about moving through this rectangle, whether it counts as one square or whether it should be thought of as containing smaller squares. &lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SMFUQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;clue rectangle&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the rules address this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="749" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:31:49.020" Title="How many squares is this rectangle on the Clue board?" Tags="|cluedo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23045" CreationDate="2015-04-07T01:15:11.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is going to repeat the answer to the question you cited, but add emphasis on one point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Running simulations is the key. You do what Adam's answer said: trying out random combinations and just reducing the results to some numbers you can compare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevance to your question is this: these simulations are, by definition, general. The method involves trying out everything, and basing the result on &lt;em&gt;some defined requirements you have specified&lt;/em&gt; (step 3 in Adam's answer). The results at the end are determined by those requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be general for any requirement, just change the requirement. You still run a simulation, and you different numbers at the end because they're based on different conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you still need to write out the function (and it is a bitch, trust me) and you need to write every requirement you're going to use, but you'll get what you're after.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tan's answer still holds too: some languages make statistics far easier to display than others. If you were more comfortable in a language other than R, you could export your results to a text file from one language you are confident in, and then import them using borrowed R code, if you want to be lazy. Which is never a bad thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12306" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T01:15:11.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T05:09:04.277" Score="11" ViewCount="2912" Body="&lt;p&gt;What constitutes a completed city.&#xA;My son and I have been playing for a little while, and we can't agree if a city is complete when it has attached cities sections which aren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12307" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T06:34:08.940" Title="Carcassonne Completed City" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2015-04-07T05:25:10.387" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;A city is completed when it has a fully connected border and the area within that border is completely filled. If the tiles that form the city have other city pieces, then as long as those pieces aren't part of the city then the city is still completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to think of it is to imagine that you're working in MS Paint. If you drew the borders of the city with the line tool, then clicked inside the city with the fill tool, then that fill shows the extent of the city (and if that fill would start spilling out into other regions, then that means the city isn't completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T05:25:10.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23709" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23714" CreationDate="2015-04-07T08:13:01.163" Score="2" ViewCount="735" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently picked Magic: The Gathering back up after a 15 year lapse. Currently making my way through what seems like a thousand cards from my childhood and entering them into a card database at &lt;a href=&quot;https://deckbox.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeckBox&lt;/a&gt;. I happened upon a German card by the name of &lt;strong&gt;Seelenruhe&lt;/strong&gt; and I'm trying to figure out what set/edition this card is from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/e0dKs.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; height=&quot;420&quot; alt=&quot;My copy of Seelenruhe/Tranquillity&quot; title=&quot;My copy.&quot; /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I Google searched and found that seelenruhe means tranquillity in German. An image search, via Google, gave me an image of the same Seelenruhe that I have (plus a Jolly Roger added in?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the image is from an Ebay account that is no longer hosting the image or product, and the Ebay website is written in what I think is German, which I can't read. Therefore, I can't figure anything out about the set/edition this card comes from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do cards written in a language other than English, belong to a set different than their English counterpart's set?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;- Other Research -&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/view?search=basic&amp;amp;filter[name]=Tranquility&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CardKingdom&lt;/a&gt;, Seelenruhe most resembles Tranquility from the following sets/editions: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/item/64250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alpha&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/item/53251&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Beta&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/item/110919&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Collectors Edition&lt;/a&gt; - &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardkingdom.com/catalog/item/111211&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Collectors Edition International&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Following &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5120/how-can-i-tell-the-difference-between-early-magic-the-gathering-card-editions?newreg=c33a54366e204d5389a4cb9a83710684&quot;&gt;How can I tell the difference between early Magic: The Gathering card editions?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;    Black Border -&gt; No Right-Side Center Symbol -&gt; Corner Curve Sharpness?&#xA;        Sloped -&gt; Alpha&#xA;        Sharp -&gt; Not Titled &quot;Reconstruction&quot; -&gt; Beta&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12308" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T13:05:28.617" Title="MTG: What set is Seelenruhe (Tranquility in German) from?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23703" CreationDate="2015-04-07T08:24:23.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) As stated by the rules, the &quot;re-roll&quot; ability may be only applied to the player using it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1043001/players-reroll-abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1043001/players-reroll-abilities&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When you re-roll the dice you completely ignore any previous beneficial results from the re-rolled die. &lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; you may use these 2 tokens received from the &quot;success&quot; die to re-roll the &quot;wound&quot; or &quot;card&quot; die. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1098036/do-you-get-keep-determination-tokens-if-you-reroll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1098036/do-you-get-keep-determination-tokens-if-you-reroll&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12310" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T08:24:23.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23707" CreationDate="2015-04-07T08:25:58.757" Score="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;A city in Carcassonne is completed when their are no places you can possibly add any additional tiles to grow that city.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Three Cities, A, B, &amp;amp; C.&#xA;Three Tiles that can be laid down (1,2, &amp;amp; 3) in the Green Square..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3HFPK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this first picture; only city &quot;B&quot; is completed (3 tiles); as you cannot add any more tiles to that specific city; city A &amp;amp; C are incomplete as you can put at least one more tile on both of those cities (Green Square).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MxE5Z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Merged Cities&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture you will see if we use Tile #1 in the green square; we are actually merging Cities A &amp;amp; C; making a single city of 7 tiles.   City B is unchanged and is still considered completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XukFi.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Closed two cities at once&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this picture we played tile #2, it completed both City A (4 tiles) and City C (4 tiles).  None of these cities can grow anymore so they are ALL considered completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MIX9g.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Still Open Cities&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using tile #3, will actually keep both City A &amp;amp; C open as they both have at least ONE place to add an additional tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also depending on what additional add-ons you have added to your base game, you could also play a tile like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OvP25.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Tile&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that closes city C and leave city A open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12311" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T08:25:58.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23704" CreationDate="2015-04-07T10:00:00.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Movement occurs &lt;strong&gt;between&lt;/strong&gt; rooms, not across them. As soon as you reach a room, the movement phase ends. As soon as you start to move, you must leave the room to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/clue_%282002%29.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; don't address this directly, but there are clear implications that a room is considered a single location (not a square, but similar) when it comes to movement. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is possible that your opponents might block any and all doors and trap you in a room. If this happens, you must wait for someone to move and unblock a door so you can leave!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may not forfeit a turn to remain in a particular Room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a room constitutes of multiple squares, it's possible to move your character without leaving the room. It seems to me that this is not in the spirit of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T13:31:49.020" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T13:31:49.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23709" CreationDate="2015-04-07T11:59:10.980" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;This card is a Revised German &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTranquility%5d&quot;&gt;Tranquility&lt;/a&gt;. For English sets without a set symbol only Alpha and Beta have black borders. But when Magic started out whenever a Core set was printed for the first time in a language it had black borders. The first printing of German Magic cards was &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magiccardmarket.eu/Help/Core_Sets#Foreign_black_bordered_Core_Sets_.28Revised_and_4th_Edition.29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Revised Edition&lt;/a&gt;, Strangely it seems that German Revised had at least 2 printings, one in black border and one in white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/card/fbb/221/de/seelenruhe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Revised German Tranquility on Scryfall&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-02-14T13:05:28.617" LastActivityDate="2020-02-14T13:05:28.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23718" CreationDate="2015-04-07T14:20:56.167" Score="2" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been working in online gaming for many years but i've always had a love for board gaming.  I'm a great believer in paper prototyping any game or feature too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wondered what are the major pitfalls or techniques that board game designers use when they come to designing a boardgame to methodically work through the problems they find?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the ideas is the easy bit, but what can I do to effectively work from prototype to completion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any tips are welcome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T20:35:09.000" Title="When first prototyping a new board game idea - how do you start?" Tags="|game-design|prototyping|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-07T23:12:42.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23717" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T17:53:51.643" Score="0" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;If opponent only can move between the two diagonal squares in the &quot;open&quot; corner, does he lose? How many times can he makes these fruitless moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12320" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T17:53:51.643" Title="Checkers only repetitive moves left to opponent" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-10T00:47:32.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23715" CreationDate="2015-04-07T20:35:09.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may be too niche of an &quot;answer&quot; but I occasionally go to a Beer &amp;amp; Board Games event at a local pub where people in the group bring their games and it's like there's a mini board game library running for the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyhow, sometimes someone shows up with a &quot;prototype&quot; game and advertises that he's developing his board game and would like to play test it. It's basically small scale closed beta testing to help test and polish game mechanics. It also helps that he can rotate through pools of play testers rather than reuse the same group each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, get your game into a &quot;sort of playable&quot; state and take it out to board game events or get friends to come play it then iterate based on how that goes. What you change and why is, of course, the tricky part. :p&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, don't worry about NDAs or people &quot;stealing your idea&quot;... you have more important things to focus on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12318" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T20:35:09.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23722" CreationDate="2015-04-07T20:59:26.150" Score="2" ViewCount="1252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine I have an Equipment attached to something, e.g. a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chariot%20of%20Victory&quot;&gt;Chariot of Victory&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt;. I then enchant that equipment with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensoul%20Artifact&quot;&gt;Ensoul Artifact&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the Equipment card still grant its effects to the creature it was attached to? Additionally, would it still be able to attack? Or is it treated more like an enchanted creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11676" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T05:42:33.873" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T05:42:33.873" Title="If I have an Equipment equipped to something and it's enchanted by Ensoul Artifact, how is that handled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23719" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:14:59.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use Ensoul Artifact on an equipment it will not gain the effects it grants to the equipped creature. This is because the equipment is not equipping itself (it can't equip anything as long as it is a creature). So a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bonesplitter&quot;&gt;Bonesplitter&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with Ensoul Artifact will be a 5/5, not 7/5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:14:59.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:15:45.860" Score="1" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;After being taught how to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/140933/blueprints&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blueprints&lt;/a&gt;, I was told that building your blueprint was completely optional, with the only downside that you would miss out on the 6-point bonus if you don't follow it. I took this to mean that you could place and stack dice any way you wanted to on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I later learned that, according to the written rules: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cannot play dice on the filled-in spaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cannot legally place a die, you must take one from the supply, discard it, and re-roll a new one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before playing according to those rules, however, we never discarded dice; no matter what your blueprint, every player got to place six dice and score them accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does playing this way disrupt the game's balance at all? To me, it seems negligible; you're still forfeiting your 6-point bonus by placing a die where it isn't planned to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T17:37:36.543" Title="Is there a real shift in balance if Blueprints players violate their blueprint?" Tags="|house-rules|blueprints|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23719" CreationDate="2015-04-07T21:50:37.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;An Equipment Creature can't be attached to anything, so there is no Equipped Creature to which to grant a boon. If a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chariot%20of%20Victory&quot;&gt;Chariot of Victory&lt;/a&gt; was animated using Ensoul Artifact, it would not grant First Strike, Trample and Haste to anything, much less itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5a The creature an Equipment is attached to is called the “equipped creature.” The Equipment is attached to, or “equips,” that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to use the Equip ability of Creature Equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5c An Equipment that’s also a creature can’t equip a creature. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason an Creature Equipment is attached to an object or player, it will cease to be when State-Based actions are performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5q If a creature is attached to an object or player, it becomes unattached and remains on the battlefield. Similarly, if a permanent that’s neither an Aura, an Equipment, nor a Fortification is attached to an object or player, it becomes unattached and remains on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-07T21:58:07.360" LastActivityDate="2015-04-07T21:58:07.360" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23849" CreationDate="2015-04-07T22:23:38.700" Score="3" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing the 2004 Avalon Hill Revised rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scenario: It is the UK player's turn. They use their Atlantic fleet (without any destroyers) to attack the German Atlantic fleet. Most of the German fleet is destroyed except for two submarines which choose to submerge. At the end of the UK player's non-combat move, the German submarines resurface and remain in the same sea zone as the UK fleet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fast-forward to the USA player's turn. They want to use their Atlantic fleet to attack the remaining German submarines. These submarines are still parked in the same sea zone as the UK fleet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: If the USA player attacks the German submarines in the same sea zone as the UK fleet, does the UK fleet participate in the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commentary: I'm leaning towards no because of the &quot;Defend together. Attack separately.&quot; principle. However, I can't find where this scenario is clarified in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12322" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:16:34.383" Title="A&amp;A Sea Zone Attack Rule Clarification" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23728" CreationDate="2015-04-08T03:34:24.873" Score="15" ViewCount="2586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if anyone knows what this game is.&#xA;It has 59(maybe missing 1) pegs that are red on one side and wood color on the other.&#xA;It is a 12 x 8 Pegboard Game.&#xA;There are no markings on the inside or outside and it folds like a briefcase. &#xA;Everything is made of wood except the handle, rubber feet, and latches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OblXW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;what is this?&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12323" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T12:39:08.570" LastActivityDate="2019-11-07T01:37:21.907" Title="What is this game with a 12x8 pegboard and 59 double sided pegs?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23724" CreationDate="2015-04-08T08:55:12.887" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of games that originate from primitive cultures have hand-made wood-sculpted boards, are played with pretty pebbles from the local beach or forest, and have countless variations to the rules (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mancala&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mancala&lt;/a&gt;). To me this looks like one of those games, but from a somewhat more recent time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are infinitely many games you could play on this 12x8 board with double sided pieces, so I hope you have a game in mind but can't remember the title. Here's some guesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aerobiologicalengineering.com/wxk116/Roman/BoardGames/calculi.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Five Stones&lt;/a&gt; is an old five-in-a-row game with some restrictions that is played on a 12x8 board, but it doesn't require double sided pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.di.fc.ul.pt/~jpn/gv/petteia.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;City&lt;/a&gt; can be played on a 12x8 board, but it only requires 24 pieces to play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversi&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reversi/Othello&lt;/a&gt; variant, but those usually require as many pieces as positions on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It could be a variation on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halma&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Halma&lt;/a&gt;, although that doesn't require double sided pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/8122/konane&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Konane&lt;/a&gt; has no board size defined in its rules, but requires as many pieces as positions on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is my best attempt at an answer to a question that I fear has no single answer. If you feel that these don't answer your question, please explain in your question why not, and I can delete this answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T16:02:56.150" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T16:02:56.150" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23729" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23731" CreationDate="2015-04-08T09:42:57.537" Score="1" ViewCount="646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a simple card game called Poker Auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All players are dealt 2 cards each facedown. They have a fixed amount of money (say 1000 pts.) A card is opened from the deck, and auctioned to the highest bidder. Minimum bid is 50 pts. (unless you have less than 50, in which case you can go all-in as a bid) and any increment of 10 is allowed. Bidding is in cyclic order starting with the left of the dealer (which changes every game), and a person can place upto 3 bids. You may place a bid that is impossible to beat. Players who lose an auction get back their money, the winner loses money equal to his bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This process is repeated until every player has 5 cards (or the deck finishes, and it is a draw). If all but one player have 5 cards, and 5 cards have been 'passed out of the game' with no bids, this last player is obliged to take the next card(s) till he has 5 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Person with the best hand (poker-style) wins the game. In the rare occurence that the first 5 'passed out cards' form a better hand than every player, it is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far it works almost fine. The problem is that some hands (such as straight) are nearly impossible, and others become easier the usual (flush maybe easier than 3 of a kind, I'm not sure). Does this change the required precedence of hands? Maybe some maths will show, please help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-07-05T04:36:26.543" LastActivityDate="2020-09-10T12:30:25.827" Title="Poker auction - Precedence of hands" Tags="|game-design|poker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18542" CreationDate="2015-04-08T12:28:42.450" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cosumi.net/play.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cosumi&lt;/a&gt;, it plays around 8kyu in my opinion. After the page loads just click on the HTML5 button, don't get scared by the Japanese symbols..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you browse their page a bit you can even find different modes regarding sizes or rules (for example one color go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12329" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T12:28:42.450" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23729" CreationDate="2015-04-08T18:35:32.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the creator of the game, you can certainly change whatever rules you want. But consider that people will value the various cards on the relative strength of the hands they could go for. If you change the strengths, then they will change their betting patterns to adjust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, however, the real question is - do you need to change it? And by that I mean, as you playtest your game, do you identify that the precedence needs to change? When you're designing a game, you have to playtest, and then playtest some more, then make some tweaks and playtest some more. Game design is about 20% design and 80% playtesting. So what did your playtesting tell you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T18:35:32.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23734" CreationDate="2015-04-08T18:40:24.820" Score="2" ViewCount="4592" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off I'm not sure what a Rotate Dial is actually called. I am thinking of something similar to a HeroClix base (a rotating top piece with a hole, which reveals different stats on the bottom piece as it rotates), but I'm trying to make them out of cardboard. So a 2 circle pieces of chipboard, one with a notch cut out, and somehow attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking I can attach them together with a plastic (or metal) rivet. However since my pieces are smallish ~1.5in, I'm having a hard time finding a small enough rivet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a name for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a known good way to make this thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12333" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-08T19:44:00.323" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T21:16:08.033" Title="How to make Rotate Dial with rivet?" Tags="|game-design|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23732" CreationDate="2015-04-08T20:30:45.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how sturdy these need to be you could try attaching the pieces together with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/613827/Office-Depot-Brand-Round-Head-Fasteners/?cm_mmc=PLA-_-Google-_-Basic_Supplies-_-613827-VQ6-42102187916-VQ16c-VQ17-pla-VQ18-online-VQ19-613827-VQ20-75211488596-VQ21-&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;brass brad&lt;/a&gt;.  Granted it will not work for terribly long before it gets worn out, but if it's just for prototyping it should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T20:30:45.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23732" CreationDate="2015-04-08T21:16:08.033" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like &quot;wheel&quot; and &quot;dial&quot; (or &quot;game dial&quot;) are other names for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a couple BGG threads with some suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/802826/how-do-you-make-game-dial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How do you make a game dial?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1188836/plastic-grommets-cardboard-wheels-ala-bsg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plastic grommets for cardboard wheels (ala BSG)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main things you could search for are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(paper) binding screws/screw posts/chicago screws (there's a site called Chicago Screws that sells them, but it's also a generic name)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;paper rivets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;brads/brass fasteners&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you said it you couldn't find small enough rivets, but I searched a bit and it looks like paper rivets are made down to a few mm across, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-04-08T21:16:08.033" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23737" CreationDate="2015-04-09T15:55:45.870" Score="6" ViewCount="1043" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anthony casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Searing%20Blood&quot;&gt;Searing Blood&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Nathan's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nathan casts and resolves &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dromoka%27s%20Command&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dromoka's Command&lt;/a&gt;, choosing to 1) prevent all damage that would be dealt by Searing Blood this turn and 2) put a +1/+1 counter on Elvish Mystic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searing Blood resolves, deals no damage, and goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony casts and resolves &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; to kill Elvish Mystic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searing Blood triggers from the graveyard, because Elvish Mystic died. Does the prevention effect created by Dromoka's command still apply to it after it changes zones? In other words, will Searing Blood deal 3 damage to Nathan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T16:12:47.033" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T16:48:05.227" Title="If an effect would prevent a spell from doing damage, does it continue to prevent that damage after the spell changes zones?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23736" CreationDate="2015-04-09T16:19:31.467" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage is prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An reference by an object to its own name is a reference to itself. So &amp;quot;Searing Blood deals 3 damage&amp;quot; has the object on the stack deal three damage. That's the very same object that was targeted by Dromoka's Command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object no longer exists when you are instructed to have it deal 3 damage, but that's fine. It can still deal damage. Last Known Information about the object is used if required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4. &lt;strong&gt;Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object&lt;/strong&gt; and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. &lt;strong&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object&lt;/strong&gt; with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [none of which are pertinent]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. &lt;strong&gt;The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This scenario occurs more often for creatures with abilities. Take a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prodigal%20Sorcerer&quot;&gt;Prodigal Sorcerer&lt;/a&gt; that was killed before its ability resolved, for example. It's the object on the battlefield that's doing the damage, even though it no longer exists. It's the color of the object on the battlefield that's consulted if the target has any Protection from Red, not the color of the object in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T16:45:40.167" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T16:45:40.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23736" CreationDate="2015-04-09T16:20:03.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage will still be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because Searing Blood sets up a delayed trigger, and the source of the delayed trigger is the spell that created it. We know that Searing Blood is dealing the damage since it says &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Searing Blood deals 3 damage to the creature's controller.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since we know that Searing Blood is dealing the damage, and it is the same Searing Blood that was targeted by the Command the damage will be prevented since the Command prevents all of the damage dealt by its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;603.7d&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; If a spell creates a delayed triggered ability, the source of that delayed triggered ability is that spell. The controller of that delayed triggered ability is the player who controlled that spell as it resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;201.4.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the Searing Blood doesn't trigger from the graveyard, this is relevant in cases where the card gets removed from the graveyard before the ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T16:48:05.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23742" CreationDate="2015-04-09T16:38:44.963" Score="4" ViewCount="3061" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have 2 players (A &amp;amp; B), barbarians wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of us have the same amount of active basic knights (1 each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has 2 cities, whilst player B has 1 city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(a) Should the both players remove a city from the board (i.e. the amount of cities per player doesn't count)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) Just the one with 2 cities gives up his/her city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the FAQs there are only situations with the same amount of cities per player declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12338" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2019-02-01T21:24:33.933" LastActivityDate="2019-02-01T21:24:33.933" Title="Settlers of Catan (Knights &amp; Cities): Lose to barbarians attack - same amount/strengths of active knights, different amount of cities" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23744" CreationDate="2015-04-09T16:56:16.743" Score="6" ViewCount="941" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/116005374414/two-part-question-1-if-searing-blood-is-removed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this unofficial ruling on Searing Blood&lt;/a&gt;, but it doesn't make sense to me. To sum up the question and the answer (in case of link rot):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Does the damage dealt by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSearing%20Blood%5d&quot;&gt;Searing Blood&lt;/a&gt;'s delayed trigger cause &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSatyr%20Firedancer%5d&quot;&gt;Satyr Firedancer&lt;/a&gt; to trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No. The damage is dealt by a delayed trigger, which is not an instant or sorcery.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The delayed trigger clearly says that Searing Blood deals 3 damage. Searing Blood is an instant. Therefore, I think Satyr Firedancer should trigger. Can someone explain why Satyr Firedancer would or would not trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question was prompted by a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/23736/2880&quot;&gt;related one&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*&#xA;The judge reversed the ruling, but was kind enough to leave notes about it. Keep in mind that the paraphrased quote above reflects the original ruling.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:09:50.293" Title="Does damage dealt by Searing Blood's delayed trigger cause Satyr Firedancer to trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-04-13T01:43:27.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23739" CreationDate="2015-04-09T17:03:23.070" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a scenario where the barbarians win, and where the strength of the activated knights of both players is the same, both players lose one city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you presented isn't such a scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The strength of the barbarians is equal to the number of cities (including metropolises) owned by all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strength of barbarians is 2 + 1 = 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All active knights of all players [...] will defend against the barbarians. [...]  Remember that the strength of each knight is based on its type: basic (1), strong (2), or mighty (3). Sum up the value of all the active nights to determine the strength of the defending army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming both knights are activated,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: 1 &amp;times; 3 = 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B: 1 &amp;times; 3 = 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The strength of the defending army is 3 + 3 = 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the knights have strength equal to or greater than the barbarians, the knights win and Catan is saved!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The barbarians actually lose in the scenario you presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If 2 or more players tie for the highest total strength of knights, [...] each of the players who tie for the highest strength draws the top card from any 1 of the 3 progress card stacks (his choice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You each have a strength of three, so each get a free progress card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you each had one basic knight rather than a mighty one, both A and B would contribute a strength of 1 for a total of 2, and you would have lost. (Again, this assumes both knights have been activated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If various players tie for having the lowest total strength of active knights, each of those players loses 1 of his cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You each have a strength of one, so each player would lose a city in this scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T19:12:34.610" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T19:12:34.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23739" CreationDate="2015-04-09T17:06:38.527" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When determining who wins when fighting the Barbarians, and if you lose to the Barbarians who loses a city is based only on the strength of each player's activated knights. Note every instance of knight in this post actually means activated knights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First to determine if the Barbarians win or you do count up the number of cities on the board (including metropolises) and count the strength of your knights (basic knights are worth 1 point, strong 2, and mighty 3). If the strength of the knights is greater than or equal to the number of cities you win, if it is less than the number of cities the Barbarians win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Barbarians win count the strength of each individual player (ignoring ones with no cities or only metropolises). The player (or players) with the lowest strength of knights loses a city. The number of cities each player has doesn't matter when determining who loses one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T17:06:38.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23740" CreationDate="2015-04-09T17:18:35.390" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling is incorrect. The source of the damage is the Searing Blood spell. When Searing Blood resolves, it creates a delayed triggered ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When that creature dies this turn, Searing Blood deals 3 damage to the creature's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Searing Blood&quot; in the triggered ability refers to the spell Searing Blood, so when the triggered ability resolves, the spell is the source of the damage. Since the spell no longer exists, its last known information is used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T17:18:35.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23740" CreationDate="2015-04-09T17:19:09.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the source of the damage is a delayed triggered ability, then the ruling is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the source of the damage is not a triggered ability; it's Searing Blood (&quot;Searing Blood deals ...&quot;), and Searing Blood is an instant. (Triggered abilities don't even have names.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or at least it was an instant when it last existed. Having since been moved to the graveyard, the object no longer exists (which is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/23736/2880&quot;&gt;perfectly fine&lt;/a&gt;), so Last Known Information is used. When it last existed, it was an instant, so the damage was dealt by an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:09:50.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23565" CreationDate="2015-04-09T19:31:40.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you can interpret the rule in one of two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The button is placed on both spaces. Then, you can grab money every time you hit one of those spaces (in the case of a patch, the first one to land on one of the spaces grabs the patch).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(The interpretation I use) You must pass the button to obtain coins (the first one to pass a batch grabs the patch).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just agree on an interpretation with your opponent before you start playing .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12342" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-09T20:23:25.987" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T20:23:25.987" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23724" CreationDate="2015-04-09T20:33:22.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although this is a non-standard board size, you could play &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1295/pente&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pente&lt;/a&gt; with this set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-04-09T20:33:22.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23565" CreationDate="2015-04-09T20:39:25.083" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The English rules aren't very specific here so I looked at the German rules by the same publisher. They use the word 'überqweren', which means 'to cross' (as one would with borders).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;I don't know why it says 'onto' in the English rules, it's not possible to land on buttons or special squares.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/17259172#17259172&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; that Znorg provided, this is because in an early prototype version of the game the markings were on specific spaces. This was later changed, but overlooked when the rules got their review.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct reading is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There are markings between some spaces of the time board. Whenever you move past one of these markings, resolve the corresponding event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2017-01-16T07:36:23.547" LastActivityDate="2017-01-16T07:36:23.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23749" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23753" CreationDate="2015-04-10T01:42:37.047" Score="1" ViewCount="652" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just picked up Boss Monster and I'm a little confused about items.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The rules say:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you kill a Hero with an attached item, you may place the face-up item in your score-keeping area. However, you may only have one face-up item at a time. (You may choose which item to keep face-up)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://brotherwisegames.com/2014/02/10/all-about-item-cards/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;All About Item Cards guide&lt;/a&gt; also says:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before you claim the new Item, you have a choice: A) immediately use your existing Item, B) turn your existing Item face-down, or C) leave the existing Item face-up and turn the new Item face-down.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To show that an Item is used, flip it face-down. There are also some other effects in Tools of Hero-Kind that can flip an Item face-down, but these do not trigger the ability  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can tell, the only cards in the Tools of Hero-Kind expansion that can flip cards face-up are Excavation and Burial Mound. Which only amounts to three cards.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? Does this mean that if you don't control one of those three cards that you can never flip up a face-down item?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12344" LastEditorUserId="12344" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T15:19:22.960" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T15:19:22.960" Title="When can you flip items face-up?" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23752" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:16:35.970" Score="7" ViewCount="18297" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grand%20Arbiter%20Augustin%20IV&quot;&gt;Grand Arbiter Augustin IV&lt;/a&gt; in play, can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zur%20the%20Enchanter&quot;&gt;Zur the Enchanter&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability pull a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86ther%20Storm&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;ther Storm&lt;/a&gt; from my library, which would originally have a converted cost of 4, but which is lowered by the Grand Arbiter's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12348" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T13:42:29.973" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T11:59:30.870" Title="Do effects that reduce a spell's casting cost also reduce its converted mana cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23750" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:23:48.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The converted mana cost is always the cost that is printed on a card; it is not changed cost reduction or alternate costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T13:23:48.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23750" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:24:24.213" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can not find Æther Storm with Zur. This is because Augustin's cost reduction ability only effects casting the card, it doesn't apply at any other time. &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;White spells you cast cost 1 less &lt;strong&gt;to cast&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the only thing that can change the CMC of a card is chooseing the value of 'X' while casting it. This is because CMC is what is printed on the top right of the card, not what you actually pay for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Deflection&quot;&gt;Divine Deflection&lt;/a&gt; costs {X}{W}, when you cast it you pick a value for X (let's say X = 5). That makes the CMC of the card 6 (5 from {X} + 1 from the {W}) even though with the Grand Arbiter out you only need to pay {4}{W} because of the cost reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3.&lt;/strong&gt; The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-04-10T18:57:21.333" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T18:57:21.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23749" CreationDate="2015-04-10T13:33:15.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are not missing something.  Acquiring a second item if you have a faceup one is generally only helpful if the second item is better than the first, or you can use the first immediately.  But at least you're keeping it away from your opponents!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-10T13:33:15.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-10T19:31:44.307" Score="3" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;While covering the Queen, if a player pockets the last C/m of he owns together with the striker then will the game continues with a penalty being place or will this result in a win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12350" LastEditorUserId="5428" LastEditDate="2017-10-25T12:07:29.610" LastActivityDate="2017-10-25T12:07:29.610" Title="While covering the Queen, if a player pockets the last C/m of his own together with the striker" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23758" CreationDate="2015-04-11T01:50:42.010" Score="5" ViewCount="3865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can explorers choose not to move? So instead of rolling dice or playing an action can a survivor skip their own turn so they don't leave a room? One example would be to stay in the mystic elevator and then each turn use the mystic elevator to travel around the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12352" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-11T06:19:12.557" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T13:32:36.847" Title="Can explorers choose not to move?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23756" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-11T07:43:12.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;More information about Evolution (North Star Games): &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/155703/evolution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/155703/evolution&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12876" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T05:09:19.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T05:09:19.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23757" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-11T07:43:12.347" Score="0" Body="&quot;Evolution&quot; (2014) by North Star Games is a board/card game." OwnerUserId="12351" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T05:09:52.180" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T05:09:52.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23755" CreationDate="2015-04-11T13:32:36.847" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can choose not to move. The rules on movement state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Moving&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your explorer’s turn, you can move up to number of spaces equal to your character’s&#xA;current Speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Up to&amp;quot; includes 0 spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you stay in the elevator for your entire turn, then the elevator will move again. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heroes must roll for their destination floor each time they enter the elevator, or at the end of each entire movement phase that they spend in the elevator without moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-11T13:32:36.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23760" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T08:12:19.760" Score="8" ViewCount="3396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have yet another timing question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elesh%20Norn%2C%20Grand%20Cenobite&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn, Grand Cenobite&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield under my opponent's control. I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teysa%2C%20Orzhov%20Scion&quot;&gt;Teysa, Orzhov Scion&lt;/a&gt; on the field with three other white 1/1 creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, the three white ones would die due to Elesh Norn's ability (-2/-2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BUT can I first sacrifice them with Teysa's first ability in order to remove Elesh Norn from the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure about the timing. Elesh enters the battlefield and his ability resolves. Can I react to that with creatures that would be affected by this ability (-2/-2)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12360" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T15:20:37.083" LastActivityDate="2016-12-20T03:45:01.577" Title="Can I respond to Elesh Norn's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23760" CreationDate="2015-04-12T10:18:43.950" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot target Elesh Norn with Teysa before Elesh is on the battlefield. However, as soon as Elesh is on the battlefield, its static -2/-2 ability is in effect, and your tokens will die as a state-based effect, before anyone gets priority and the opportunity to use regular spells or abilities. Note that Elesh's ability does not resolve, because it does not go on the stack. As long as Elesh is on the battlefield, the ability is permanently active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T10:18:43.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13701" CreationDate="2015-04-12T12:11:26.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rightgames.ru/evolution_faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (in Russian),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Симбиоз&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Может ли животное (птица) со свойством хищник, находящееся под защитой симбионта (крокодила) атаковать его?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Да, если симбионт (крокодил) уже накормлен.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In English, that would sound like,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Symbiosis&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can a carnivorous animal (a bird) that is protected by a symbiont (a crocodile) attack the symbiont?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, if the symbiont (a crocodile) has already been fed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my understanding, that means the protected animal cannot attack other creatures too, until the symbiont is fed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/936370/living-faq-evolution-origin-species-english&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Living FAQ for Evolution: The Origin of Species in English&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12351" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T12:11:26.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7476" CreationDate="2015-04-12T12:36:12.470" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Desert was reprinted in Time Shifted, From the Vaults, and was made into a promo, so therefor you could turn to the newer printings of the card if you are having complications with a judge on the matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12361" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T12:36:12.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23766" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-12T21:52:11.580" Score="0" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One-Handed_Solitaire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one-handed solitaire&lt;/a&gt;, after discarding cards the rules state &quot;If there are previously drawn cards in your hand, rearrange the hand so that four cards are visible.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12363" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T12:44:13.353" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T11:48:20.413" Title="What does &quot;if there are previously drawn cards in your hand, rearrange the hand so that four cards are visible&quot; mean?" Tags="|solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23771" CreationDate="2015-04-12T22:23:39.923" Score="3" ViewCount="1225" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definition of 'play' in mtg for spells indicates it is synonym of cast. On the other hand on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Courser%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; it seems to be constant ability. What does 'play' mean in Magic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12364" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-12T22:49:13.203" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T15:00:54.080" Title="What does 'play' mean in the context of Courser of Kruphix?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23767" CreationDate="2015-04-12T22:37:24.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with Courser of Kruphix you will play with the top card of your library revealed (first ability). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that revealed card happens to be a land you can then play it as if it was in your hand (can still only play the normal amount of lands each turn and you can only use it when you can normally play a land). This will gives you a couple of benefits.  First it lets you play a land if you don't have one in your hand (or chose not to play a land from your hand). Second it lets you get a land card out of the deck faster so you can get to more valuable cards. Third you get to gain life from the third ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in short for this card &quot;play&quot; is treated like playing any other land on your turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the rulings on this card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=courser+of+kruphix&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=courser+of+kruphix&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-04-12T22:37:24.393" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23767" CreationDate="2015-04-12T22:53:35.913" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play means two different things here. (It used to mean a lot more things; see the footnote at the end.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first ability's instruction to play with the top card of your library revealed just means that whilst you're playing the game, you should have the top card of your library revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second ability (&amp;quot;You may play the top card ...&amp;quot;), &amp;quot;playing&amp;quot; a card is &lt;em&gt;close&lt;/em&gt; to casting, but &amp;quot;playing&amp;quot; is a broader term that refers to something else &lt;em&gt;in addition&lt;/em&gt; to casting. Playing a card refers to one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cast a card as a spell&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#rule-601-1-a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put a land onto the battlefield&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#rule-305-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;, which doesn't use the stack or count as casting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, that means &lt;em&gt;lands cannot be cast.&lt;/em&gt; They can only be &lt;em&gt;played.&lt;/em&gt; So, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Courser%20of%20Kruphix&quot;&gt;Courser of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; to use the verb &amp;quot;play&amp;quot;, as must anything that lets you put a land on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare this to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daxos%20of%20Meletis&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt;, who allows you to &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; exiled cards — which means you can cast creatures, sorceries, instants, artifacts, and enchantments exiled by Daxos, &lt;em&gt;but not lands.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Footnote:&lt;/em&gt; In cards printed before the Magic 2010 core set (released 2009), &amp;quot;play&amp;quot; meant other things, such as activating an ability, and the &amp;quot;cast&amp;quot; verb wasn't a thing. &amp;quot;Play&amp;quot; was pretty overloaded and confusing, so &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120014846/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they made those usages obsolete in 2010&lt;/a&gt; and added new concepts such as &amp;quot;casting&amp;quot; a spell and &amp;quot;activating&amp;quot; an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T15:00:54.080" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T15:00:54.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23766" CreationDate="2015-04-12T23:46:04.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;Your question has absolutely no context, so it is difficult to answer in a way that is specific to what you need.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We need the e full context of the rules to explain this.  If you have trouble with terminology, see the original text of this answer, below. Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Taking a standard, shuffled 52-card deck of playing cards (without Jokers), hold the deck face down in your hand.  &lt;strong&gt;Draw from the back of the deck four cards and place them on top fanned out so that the suit and number can be seen.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the above rule indicates, you draw cards at a certain point in this game. You always draw four cards. There is no maximum limit of cards you may have in your hand written in the quoted rules, so you may have leftover cards from a previous action. Adding four new cards to your hand can result in having more than four cards in your hand. For example, if you had one card in your hand, then drew four cards, you would have five cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the first and fourth card are the same suit, discard the two middle cards, placing them on your lap if seated or in a pocket or elsewhere if standing. &lt;strong&gt;If there are previously drawn cards in your hand, rearrange the hand so that four cards are visible.&lt;/strong&gt; If there are not enough cards to do this, draw from the back so that four cards are visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After performing prior actions, you may still have more than four cards in your hand. If you do do, you need to adjust your hand so that you can only see the faces of four cards.  You shouod effectively be playing a four card hand at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked rules don't specify about how to rearrange the cards, or what happens with the cards you can no longer see. As such, based only on those rules, you ha e the option of discarding the no-longer-accessible cards from the gake. However, this seems highly punative and very unlikey that you could win if you took this approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other option, which I suspect is the intended option, and is definitely easier, is if you flip some cards face down so that you can't see them any more, or otherwise set them to the side.  So, if you had 5 cards, flip 1 face down. That card wou k d effectively be out of play, amd could only come back if you have more than 4 cards on the table in the future, prompting you to rearrange your cards again (unless there's another rule that lets you rearrange under otber conditions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;---- Original answer ----&#xA;That said, let's break things down...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if there are previously drawn cards in your hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 'hand' typically refers to the set of cards you are playing. You typically hold these cards in the body part also known as your hand (that which is attached to your arm, at the opposite end from your shoulder).  The gaming term is (I believe) derived from the term 'hand of cards'. However, there are games and times when you locate your hand of cards elsewhere, like resting on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of many games, you have a reserve of cards, often called a &quot;deck&quot; or a &quot;stack.&quot; This pile is defined by the rules of the game, and the way you access the pile is defined by the rules of the game.  Often, you will have a person who is assigned the role of &quot;dealer&quot;, meaning s/he is responsible for handing out cards to each player in accordance with the game rules.  Other times, you may have multiple decks/stacks, from which you will obtain cards.  The act of obtaining these cards is called &quot;drawing&quot; them.  The term &quot;to draw&quot; applies whether or not you are dealt cards by the dealer or if you draw them directly from the deck yourself - though individual rules of the game can change that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;previously drawn cards in your hand&quot; means that you have obtained cards by drawing them, and they are currently in your hand.  The rule and context of the rule will indicate &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; those cards were drawn.  Perhaps on this turn, perhaps any time since the game started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;rearrange&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards that you hold in your hand are in some order.  One card may be to the left, another to the right, of that, and another to the right of that.  Or they may all be held on top of each other so that you can see exactly one card.  The term &quot;arrangement&quot; means the way things happen to be placed.  It is nonspecific as to where the particular placements are - just that the specific things in question have locations in physical space.  To &quot;rearrange&quot; is to change the arrangement in physical space.  That is, to change where those things are located in physical space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;rearrange the hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This specifies that we are looking at the locations of the cards in your hand of cards, and that you are to change the locations that they are take in physical space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;so that four cards are visible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something is &quot;visible&quot; if you can see it.  It is &quot;not visible&quot; if you cannot see it.  The way that you need to set up the cards you have in your hand of cards is so that exactly four of those cards can be seen.  In particular, this type of rule with card games typically means that the face of the card with interesting information on it is visible - with poker cards, you'd be able to see the number and suit of the card.  However, the specific rule that you are quoting from might contain additional specification that changes exactly which side is visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This instruction also means that you should set the other cards so they are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; visible.  This could be by keeping them in your hand, or by stacking them under the other cards, or perhaps by placing them face down on the table.  The specific rules of the game will provide any special instructions about how these non-visible cards should be arranged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T21:03:11.313" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T21:03:11.313" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23767" CreationDate="2015-04-13T00:04:43.340" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Courser of Kruphix uses the word &quot;play&quot; in two different ways. When it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play with the top card of your library revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It means that you play &lt;strong&gt;the game&lt;/strong&gt; with the top card of your library revealed. That ability is a static ability, so it is in effect for as long as the Courser of Kruphix is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, when it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may play the top card of your library if it's a land card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That simply means that you can play lands on top of your library like your are normally able to do from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T00:31:09.210" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T00:31:09.210" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14157" CreationDate="2015-04-13T00:40:36.040" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roll a dice for small piles if it asks for a random card. Figure out a bottom to top or top to bottom numbering and stick to it. Hand/stack shuffle them and then roll. This still doesn't solve the issue of placing the villain if you're playing with only a couple locations, but doing a box lid shuffle or something like it can fix that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've found that doing this removes any certain knowledge when playing solo and also helps combat any control when playing coop. I've yet to run into any major conflict with the rules while doing this. The only concern I've had centers around when you told to take the top two or top three cards. But I'm rarely dealing with a back to back shuffle in which I have information and a need to take a specific number of cards off the top. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's still overall a useful tool in randomizing small decks when needed. Be creative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12365" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T00:40:36.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-13T17:19:28.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1662" Body="&lt;p&gt;My office frequently raises money for charities holding lotteries or raffles. A coworker and I were considering more creative &amp;amp; entertaining ways to raise money, and we hit on the idea of playing Risk! Participants would be randomly assigned territories (most likely one territory per participant given the # of participants in my office) and could raise armies by donating money (say $1 per army token). Players would be free to form alliances &amp;amp; conquer neighboring territories as per the rules. Not sure if the Risk cards would be used in order to keep our rules as simple as possible. The winner of the game wins a prize, with runners up winning secondary prizes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions: How can the rules of Risk be adapted to a fundraiser in order to maximize the amount of money raised? Once a player is knocked out of the game, how can she continue donating money in a meaningful way? How do we link # territories owned with # of armies you can raise without placing undue restrictions on donation amounts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12372" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T01:40:13.780" Title="How to play Risk for office fundraiser?" Tags="|house-rules|risk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-04-14T17:43:03.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23775" CreationDate="2015-04-13T18:08:43.200" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would veer away from having to paying money to raise armies, which, depending on implementation, might be perceived badly (as either being able to pay money to buy huge armies, or requiring money to even make it to the end by having to pay ever-increasing amounts of money just to play.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, I would suggest allowing players to pay money to re-roll the dice used for determining battle outcomes. This way, you get a little bit of an advantage from paying money, but you may still roll badly and not win. (plus, it can incentive the other player in the battle to pay money to re-roll his dice, etc.) I might also try a staggered cost - so that for each player, the first 10 re-rolls cost $1, but the next 10 cost $2, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for players that have already been defeated, you could allow them to pay for re-rolls on one side in future battles. Depending on how competitive your office is, this may break friendships as people contribute money to their favorite faction, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, note that the physical Risk game comes with a limited number of colors, so you might need to find some sort of work-around (have several independent &quot;pods&quot; where the winner of each goes on to play in a final game) or digital version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2015-04-13T20:42:45.437" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T20:42:45.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23779" CreationDate="2015-04-13T21:06:44.470" Score="6" ViewCount="2221" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Coup, if you don't believe someone has a card, you can call them out and they must reveal a card. If that card isn't the one they've said it is, it dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if it is, one of yours dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is that card chosen? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T20:29:41.520" Title="When you call a bluff and are wrong, how is the card that dies chosen?" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23775" CreationDate="2015-04-13T21:18:20.950" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could allow players to buy Risk cards (they eventually turn into armies when you get a set) - $5 per card, only can buy one card per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would allow 'eliminated' players to buy back in - as if they collect a set while 'eliminated' (by buying a card each round) they could get some armies and attack back in (say, allowing them to attack back in at their starting country).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2015-04-13T21:18:20.950" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23777" CreationDate="2015-04-13T22:07:57.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;#x20;&amp;#x20;&amp;#x20;&amp;#x20;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T20:29:41.520" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T20:29:41.520" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23775" CreationDate="2015-04-14T01:40:13.780" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Meta suggestion:  Playtest&lt;/strong&gt;: I strongly suggest that you do a dry run with whatever combination of rule modifications you come up with.  Maybe give a few Risk-loving friends allocations (different allocations, since different people will have different amounts of money they are willing to spend) of poker chips, and try some of the rule ideas that get suggested here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Split into groups&lt;/strong&gt; Define &quot;factions&quot; and have them pool their money and vote or take turns taking turns in the actual play.  Advantage here is that you &lt;strong&gt;don't have to change the rules as much&lt;/strong&gt; (that's likely a good idea to optimize your modifications toward).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Money considerations&lt;/strong&gt; You might &lt;strong&gt;set a target amount of money&lt;/strong&gt; you want to raise, and have individuals &lt;strong&gt;recruit pledges&lt;/strong&gt; from other coworkers to sponsor them--maybe have a minimum amount you have to have pledged to get in at all, say--and whoever organizes those pledges is a leader of a faction (=one color).  You could have a sign-up sheet with faction leader slots, or you could have it be that whoever gets in their pledge sheet first (with the minimum pledge) gets the slot.  Consider setting a &lt;strong&gt;maximum amount of money&lt;/strong&gt; to prevent it devolving into pay-to-win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more idea--there have been many iterations of Risk, so if you end up wanting or needing more factions that you have colors, &lt;strong&gt;obtain pieces from differing versions&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. of different colors or shapes) to differentiate more than six factions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Time may be your enemy&lt;/strong&gt; (given that this is in a workplace).  Consider that a game of Risk will often go for three hours.  If you use the faction strategy (multiple contributors playing one color), perhaps people can &lt;strong&gt;rotate in and out&lt;/strong&gt; during the day as &quot;the player&quot; for their color.  Or, if you have room where you can securely leave it out, &lt;strong&gt;play on lunch break over multiple days&lt;/strong&gt;.  Consider using &lt;strong&gt;time reducing rule variations&lt;/strong&gt; (like &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Risk_%28game%29#Capitol_Risk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Capitol Risk&lt;/a&gt;) to mitigate this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11875" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T01:40:13.780" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="631" CreationDate="2015-04-14T11:55:46.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preferred ruleset is Mahjong Competition Rules, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guobiao_Majiang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guobiao_Majiang&lt;/a&gt; (I don't think anyone in the west call them by the name Guobiao though, or at least I have yet to hear anyone do so, even at major tournaments). The rules can also be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong-europe.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mahjong-europe.org/&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These may seem very complicated at first, but the scoring itself is fairly straightforward (just add whatever patterns are on the hand), and due to the large number of patterns, there will almost always be plenty of opportunities to pick different directions during the course of a hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good way to get to know the rules is to start playing without the 8-point requirement and then spend some time figuring out the actual score of each hand, to get used to the patterns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ruleset also has the advantage (at least in Europe) that many of the large cities will have some club or similar playing by the ruleset, which gives an opportunity to get to know other players.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are also a decent number of tournaments using the ruleset, and most of them (barring the European and World Championships) are open to everyone and generally have a very friendly atmosphere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12377" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T11:55:46.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2015-04-14T14:53:56.133" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gw are famous for taking legal action against anyone and anything that uses its IP without license.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Vassal were the last to try what you are asking and i believe were shut down with a cease and desist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sadly anything close to what your seeking would be shut down quickly by GW. This means no one is making any such software. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T14:53:56.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23785" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:29:43.667" Score="2" ViewCount="3988" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if a player plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Personal%20Sanctuary&quot;&gt;Personal Sanctuary&lt;/a&gt; then plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armageddon&quot;&gt;Armageddon&lt;/a&gt; does the damage prevention mean they don't lose lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12385" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-14T20:33:18.363" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T15:07:20.597" Title="Does preventing damage prevent things like land destruction?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23785" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:34:28.823" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, &amp;quot;prevent all damage&amp;quot; only prevents actual damage - the kind of thing that happens when a creature deals combat damage to you, or a spell or ability deals damage (it'll actually say &amp;quot;damage&amp;quot;, like &amp;quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; deals 3 damage to target creature or player&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It will not stop anything else; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armageddon&quot;&gt;Armageddon&lt;/a&gt; will still destroy lands, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt; will still destroy creatures, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T01:09:40.297" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T01:09:40.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:38:06.273" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is about the card game bridge :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How many points can N/S have in a par-zero deal ? (Only consider the high&#xA;card points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a par-zero deal, no player can make any contract assuming perfect play and&#xA;full information (all hands are visible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most par-zero deals , N/S have at most 23 high card points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the limit ?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            S 973&#xA;            H K5&#xA;            D QJ864&#xA;            C KQJ&#xA;  S 2                 S AQJ854 &#xA;  H T87               H A42&#xA;  D T53               D A97&#xA;  C 987543            C 6&#xA;            S KT6&#xA;            H QJ963&#xA;            D K2&#xA;            C AT2 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is an example with 25 HCP for N/S. I found this deal by slightly &#xA; changing a random deal from pavliceks deal finder which was close&#xA; to par-zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                  S A75&#xA;                  H KJ2&#xA;                  D AJ63&#xA;                  C 762&#xA;   S 986                         S JT2&#xA;   H 86                          H AQT9&#xA;   D T854                        D 972&#xA;   C AQ53                        C T98&#xA;                  S KQ43&#xA;                  H 7543&#xA;                  D KQ&#xA;                  C KJ4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is an example with 27 HCP-points for N/S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with 28 points, there is an example :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                      S 2&#xA;                      H QJ73&#xA;                      D KQJ&#xA;                      C J8743&#xA;   S AQT98                          S 73&#xA;   H T9542                          H 8&#xA;   D -                              D T98765&#xA;   C 652                            C AQT9&#xA;                      S KJ654&#xA;                      H AK6&#xA;                      D A432&#xA;                      C K&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, I found an example with 29 HCP for N/S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                    QJT9&#xA;                    942&#xA;                    QJ&#xA;                    QJ64&#xA;      87654                    32&#xA;      A3                       T865&#xA;      AKT98                    3&#xA;      T                        987532&#xA;                    AK&#xA;                    KQJ7&#xA;                    76542&#xA;                    AK&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12384" LastEditorUserId="12384" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T18:21:38.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:21:38.697" Title="Par-zero deal with many points for N/S" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-06-18T16:01:22.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23789" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-14T20:52:13.933" Score="4" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;Richard Pavlicek made a great bridge site. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/7f55.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rpbridge.net/7f55.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mystery is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a bridge hand where North/South can make a grandslam in any&#xA;  suit, but not even make 5NT?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;he asks for solving a mystery and how close he came to a solution. He claims he first saw it in a newspaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also very interested in this task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a solution or, better yet the deal Richard Pavlicek might have seen in the newspaper??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12384" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T03:53:05.790" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T03:53:05.790" Title="Richard Pavliceks mystery" Tags="|bridge|puzzles|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2015-04-14T23:37:32.963" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our games, the game is usually won by someone conquering a capital city.This is even with the Fame and Fortune expansion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12387" LastActivityDate="2015-04-14T23:37:32.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23785" CreationDate="2015-04-15T00:07:50.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly Personal Sanctuary only protects you not your permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nope the the only time a damage prevention effect can save a land is when the land is also a creature (weird but it sometimes happens) and is actually assigned damage from a spell, ability or another creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly damage prevention doesn't work against effects that say 'lose life' (this phrase is used on effects that affect a player) or destroy creatures outright. So for example Personal Sanctuary won't protect you against some thing like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Absorb Vie&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12388" LastEditorUserId="12388" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T15:07:20.597" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T15:07:20.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23766" CreationDate="2015-04-15T11:48:20.413" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In one-handed solitaire, your &quot;hand&quot; is all the face-up cards on the top of the deck. You are always supposed to have the top four of these cards visible, which can be achieved by fanning out the top four cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this rule means that &quot;if the number of visible cards is less than four, and the total number of face-up cards on the top of the deck is at least four, then fan out the top four cards so that you can see them all&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T11:48:20.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23785" CreationDate="2015-04-15T14:29:19.863" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for two reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If it doesn't say &amp;quot;deal(s) damage&amp;quot;, it doesn't deal damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only damage if it's the result of the &amp;quot;deal damage&amp;quot; keyword action. That means those words &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; appear in the rule or effect. Currently the only damage caused by the rules is combat damage. So if it's not combat damage, and if the effect doesn't use the words &amp;quot;deal damage&amp;quot;, it's not damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the Combat Damage Step, attacking and defending creatures deal damage. If any of that damage is directed to you, it will be nullified. You won't lose life (or gain poison counters if the attacking creature has Poison or Infect) if you don't block an attacking creature because you are protected from the damage that would cause you to lose life (or gain poison counters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; targeting you will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armageddon&quot;&gt;Armageddon&lt;/a&gt; destroys lands. It does not deal damage, so it's not affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Personal%20Sanctuary&quot;&gt;Personal Sanctuary&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sign%20in%20Blood&quot;&gt;Sign in Blood&lt;/a&gt; causes lose of life. It does not deal damage, so it's not affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Personal%20Sanctuary&quot;&gt;Personal Sanctuary&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;You&amp;quot; refers specifically to the player.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Personal%20Sanctuary&quot;&gt;Personal Sanctuary&lt;/a&gt; only protects &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; from damage. Your permanents are not protected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; targeting you will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; targeting one of your creatures will deal damage as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T14:36:21.207" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T14:36:21.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23799" CreationDate="2015-04-15T15:53:47.987" Score="6" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Merciless%20Executioner&quot;&gt;Merciless Executioner&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield, and both players have multiple creatures, which player chooses a creature to sacrifice first? Obviously the latter will have an advantage. Technically it can't be done simultaneously, so who should go first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12364" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-04-15T17:29:22.660" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T17:29:22.660" Title="If multiple players must make a choice, in what order are the choices made?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23798" CreationDate="2015-04-15T16:02:31.950" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When multiple players must make a choice simultaneously, they do so in &quot;Active Player, Non Active Player&quot; order. This means that first, the player currently taking their turn chooses, then each other player chooses in turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot;&gt;Rule 101.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player's left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the &quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T16:02:31.950" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23800" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:31:16.587" Score="15" ViewCount="2679" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a player is eliminated, can they still talk and discuss strategy on the table or do they have to stay silent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12399" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T14:54:30.333" Title="When a player is killed in Bang! can they still talk?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23821" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:48:05.803" Score="3" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that several players are going to get revolts due to rice shortage in the winter round, which one goes first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might matter e.g. when you know that the tower is packed with green cubes and no one wants to go first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastEditorUserId="990" LastEditDate="2015-04-18T00:40:38.300" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T00:40:38.300" Title="Shogun: Which player resolves winter revolts first?" Tags="|shogun|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23800" CreationDate="2015-04-15T19:54:19.807" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't explicitly cover this, so we must use our own judgement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player dies, they reveal their role and their cards. The dead player has no more hidden information. Therefore, I see no reason why they should be required to remain silent. Additionally, one could argue that they aren't even playing the game any longer, and therefore can't possibly be bound by its rules. (In before someone comments that some Bang! character I don't know about can revive.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your play group really has an issue with dead players influencing opinions after death, then introduce a house rule. Dead players can't speak (at least about the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T19:54:19.807" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23788" CreationDate="2015-04-15T21:24:03.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a deal that my double dummy solver says is parzero with North/South holding 24 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          S: KT9&#xA;          H: AK942&#xA;          D: QT97&#xA;          C: A&#xA; S: 72             S: AQ864&#xA; H: J87            H: T653&#xA; D: K84            D: AJ6&#xA; C: JT842          C: 7&#xA;          S: J53&#xA;          H: Q&#xA;          D: 532&#xA;          C: KQ9653&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't analyzed this deal to see how the sides defeat the contracts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that North/South have their share of the tens, and all of the nines, as well. So this is a good 24.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For north/south declaring. the obvious problem is that north and south's hands have few entries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've currently got my dealer search for 25-point examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bridge.thomasoandrews.com/deal/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deal&lt;/a&gt; is the dealer than I'm using. I wrote it. It has a double dummy solver built-in. This is the script I'm using for Deal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;main { &#xA;   # Require north/south have exactly 25 points and no fit&#xA;   reject unless {[hcp south]+[hcp north]==25}&#xA;   foreach suit {spades hearts diamonds clubs} {&#xA;       reject if {[$suit south]+[$suit north]&amp;gt;7}&#xA;   }&#xA;&#xA;   foreach denom {notrump spades hearts diamonds clubs} {&#xA;      reject if {[deal::tricks south $denom]&amp;gt;6}&#xA;      reject if {[deal::tricks north $denom]&amp;gt;6}&#xA;      reject if {[deal::tricks east $denom]&amp;gt;6}&#xA;      reject if {[deal::tricks west $denom]&amp;gt;6}&#xA;   }&#xA;   accept&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12400" LastEditorUserId="12400" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T12:31:23.577" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T12:31:23.577" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12256" CreationDate="2015-04-15T21:51:02.663" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most important part of senji from my experience was the ability to attack.  Unlike a normal area of control game where the primary purpose of troops is to conquer territories, in Senji the primary purpose of soldiers from a time perspective is to die in combat thus gaining you honor.  While holding territories does give you more actions each turn, it also makes you more vulnerable to attack due to the very low piece limit on troops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naval attacks confer fairly low penalty compared to the high value of the attack opportunities they can create, so naval connectivity is usually the most interesting feature of territorial positions rather than land connectivity (another difference from other area of control games).  As a result, black, yellow, and purple are in the more advantaged offensive positions in that they have starting territory on both seas, allowing them to attack almost any territory on the board (with the exception of the two inland territories controlled by red and green).  Thus, if there is a tempting opportunity for combat (such as a situation where you can win a 6 on 5 battle), these players will almost certainly have it available, while other players only have a 50% chance that they will be able to get to that territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The check against this is that the seas go both ways: these players can also be attacked by anyone from pretty much anywhere.  This is less valuable than in a classic are of control game, but attacking a player that has just taken a fourth territory can matter a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they make a significant difference?  Not when compared to games like Game of Thrones.  I would say starting positions in Senji are more comparable to starting positions in classic Risk; they are not symmetric, but the map is connected enough that the asymmetry is merely enough to add nuance rather than throw off game balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-04-15T21:51:02.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23806" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-04-16T01:35:00.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Senji&lt;/em&gt; is a bluffing and negotiation game where players are Japanese chiefs competing to become daimyo. It was first published in 2008 by Asmodee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T03:31:06.557" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T03:31:06.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23807" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-04-16T01:35:00.257" Score="0" Body="A bluffing and negotiation game where players are Japanese chiefs competing to become daimyo." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:47:17.480" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:47:17.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1946" CreationDate="2015-04-16T07:32:46.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nice discussion here, but hard to answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opinion of Ryan Sturm, who is an educator and also the host of the &quot;How to play&quot; podcast, is that the complexity is a &quot;Black diamond&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zQAz5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;These games cross the realm into &amp;#39;gamer&amp;#39;s games&amp;#39;. They typically can last over two hours and require a significant amount of mental effort to learn. Though the games are manageable enough to play strategically in one play.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These games cross the realm into 'gamer's games'. They typically can last over two hours and require a significant amount of mental effort to learn. Though the games are manageable enough to play strategically in one play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complete complexity rating scale here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://howtoplaypodcast.com/about/htp-complexity-rating-scale/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://howtoplaypodcast.com/about/htp-complexity-rating-scale/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T07:32:46.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23812" CreationDate="2015-04-16T11:46:10.567" Score="2" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddies and I have been hooked on Pandemic lately and I just picked up the On-the-Brink expansion for Pandemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was reading the rulebook yesterday and I'm not quite sure if I get the Bio-terrorist (BT) challenge right. So the BT is off the board, and plays mostly on pen-&amp;amp;-paper, and the pawn comes to the board only when BT happens to be in the same city as one of the players (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/23810/12402&quot;&gt;timing of putting the pawn on the board is also interesting, but I'll ask that separately&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook the BT has 2 actions and a move, so the BT can essentially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spread disease locally (L) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spread remotely (R) by discarding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;travel remotely (F) by discarding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sabotage (S) by discarding&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;draw card (D)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't quite get the point of secrecy (writing on paper), especially considering that the actions have pretty obvious consequences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;purple cube gets placed on the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BT discards a card and a purple cube is placed on the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BT discards a card (destination is the city on the card), BT announces that he was seen at an airport.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BT discards a card, a station is removed from the board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BT draws&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless I misunderstood something, all BT actions are obvious to any alert player. What's the point of secrecy and note-taking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12402" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:46:34.750" Title="Isn't secrecy quite pointless for Bio-terrorist?" Tags="|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23811" CreationDate="2015-04-16T11:55:15.033" Score="2" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I mentioned in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/23809/isnt-secrecy-quite-pointless-for-bt&quot;&gt;another question&lt;/a&gt;, I recently got the On-the-Brink expansion and have been a bit puzzled with the BT challenge gameplay. I was looking for gameplay videos but haven't found any..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about when the BT/black -pawn gets placed on the board. The rulebook says it's placed on the board whenever another player is at a city BT is in. So far each time I've played Pandemic, we play the actions as a sequence and not really one-by-one. So while the &quot;good guys&quot; are playing their actions, does the BT have to jump in and put his pawn on the board? What happens if one &quot;good guy&quot; happens to pass by the city BT is in, en route to some other city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player1 starts her turn in city &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and wants to treat disease in city &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BT resides in city &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player1 moves from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;; via &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;B&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does BT jump in the gameplay to place his pawn on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;C&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, only to remove it again immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; As I stated in a comment below, how the goodies move becomes non-trivial for as the path from one city to another, may involve passing through different cities, even though the number of actions required might be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: If a player announces that she's going from Cairo to Karachi, does the BT have to ask &quot;via Baghdad or Riyadh?&quot;. Doing so, sort of invalidates the point of secrecy for the BT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12402" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T12:44:59.040" Title="When exactly does the black pawn gets placed on the board?" Tags="|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23810" CreationDate="2015-04-16T12:37:02.693" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as soon as the player moves through the city you are in, you should interrupt them and inform them that you are in that city.  They then have the option of continuing with their original plan, or deciding to stop in that city and capture you instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T12:37:02.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23809" CreationDate="2015-04-16T14:15:10.457" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question in the title: &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;.  Without secrecy, it would be trivial for the BT to be caught, making them mostly ineffective.  Even a little bit of doubt as to where the BT is will often be enough to keep the players from attempting to capture them, since the moves would be wasted if they're wrong, and capturing often isn't strong enough to risk that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of why it isn't actually trivial to know where they are, you left out an action, which is probably the most common one.  The BT may drive between locations just like a player does.  This does not reveal where the BT is, and is your primary method as the BT of keeping the players from knowing where you are.  Also, when you discard a card, the players do not know if you are using it for a Direct Flight (going to the city) or a Charter Flight (going from the city).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-04-16T17:46:34.750" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T17:46:34.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23818" CreationDate="2015-04-16T17:28:53.583" Score="6" ViewCount="808" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I have been developing a game but we've had some difficulty establishing the specific genre we think it should fit in. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our game design uses printed cards to be distributed CCG-style in randomized, rarefied (common/uncommon/rare/etc.) sealed packs and starter boxes, but these cards are used to represent the unit stats, leaders, equipment, special abilities, and so-on for a tactical table-top based game (think Magic The Gathering meets Mage Knight 2.0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specific ways to determine how we should identify our game that are identified by the industry as a whole, or do we simply need to pick our 'closest match' and try to clarify how we cross genres in the actual description of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there an industry standard set of definitions between game generes?&lt;/strong&gt; If so, what is it based on (game mechanic, distribution mechanic, production medium, etc)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in the automotive industry, pretty much all cars get categorized as either &quot;coupe&quot;, &quot;sedan&quot;, &quot;truck&quot;, &quot;van&quot;, or &quot;SUV&quot;, but then they try to identify themselves as something more specific (e.g. &quot;Crossover Hybrid SUV&quot;). I imagine there are pretty simple and standard concepts of why something is a sedan instead of a coupe, so I'm hoping there are similar ways to identify the root 'type' of a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastEditorUserId="5463" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T13:53:00.340" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T19:51:11.963" Title="Is there an industry standard definition between &quot;Board&quot;, &quot;Card&quot;, and &quot;Table Top&quot; game genres?" Tags="|game-design|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23815" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23814" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:28:37.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just my opinion, and not meant to be perfect, so take it for what you will...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;table top&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think of this as a game playable around a table. The table is typically 'kitchen table' or 'dining room table' sized. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players are typically, though not always seated during play. Any moving about the table is incidental to the game. For example, there's a table top racing game where you have to move around to better aim your piece. Billiards would also fall under this definition. Musical chairs would not, as the game is all about moving around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Table top games are not athletic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A subset of table top games played on a board or matte of specific, predefined size. Examples would be xwing, or monopoly. Warhammer, to my knowledge, is designed to use arbitrary sized play space, so it would not seem to fit this definition. Billiards doesn't count, as it's played directly on the table, nor do card games, unless those card games include a board, in which case they'd be in both categories. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;card&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game that is played primarily with cards and comparison thereof to the opponents' cards as the primary mechanic. Other devices, like tokens, are incidental to the use of cards. Games like Magic The Gathering, Solitaire and Poker. Ticket To Ride would not be a card game because cards are not the objective of the game, but rather an incidental tool to play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:28:37.053" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2015-04-16T20:39:58.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @Skeith mentioned, Games Workshop LLC is very vicious when it comes to protecting their Intellectual Property license, so it will be very hard to find anything designed for this on purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, Steam recently released a game called &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.steampowered.com/app/286160/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tabletop Simulator&lt;/a&gt;, which, with a lot of work, could probably be used as a tool for this (right up until GW catches on and their lawyers destroy the life of whoever is supporting the mod). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2015-04-16T20:39:58.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23817" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-16T22:46:01.483" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have Suburbia, and I quite like it. However, some of the people I play with, don't quite have the cutthroat edge to win. It makes not so fun to play if I win every game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's an effective way to handicap it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking I could simply start with less money, in which case, what would be idea starting amount be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T05:58:55.383" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T05:58:55.383" Title="How can I handicap in Suburbia?" Tags="|handicap|suburbia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23814" CreationDate="2015-04-17T01:53:52.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your game is a CCG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you do with the cards - the actual mechanics of the game - is irrelevant here. A game's &quot;type&quot; is metadata. It's defined, roughly speaking, by the central piece of &quot;equipment&quot; needed to play it: a board, a table, minis, role playing, dice, an AV system, or, in your case, cards. Subtype, if any, usually describes the central mechanic. For example, Dominion and Magic the Gathering are both card games, but Dominion has a single showpiece mechanic which can be easily described (deck building), while Magic doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there an industry standard definition between “Board”, “Card”, and “Table Top” game genres?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not that I've ever heard of. As you can see just from looking at this page (the comments, &lt;strong&gt;boardgames&lt;/strong&gt;.stackexchange.com, etc.) these terms are somewhat nebulous and different people take them to mean different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are there specific ways to determine how we should identify our game that are identified by the industry as a whole&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps surprisingly, yes, there is an industry standard practice for supplying this sort of information about your game. Call it whatever you think succinctly, accurately and interestingly describes your game. For example, Netrunner self identifies as a &quot;living card game&quot;; Dominion, as a &quot;deck building game&quot;; Ra, as an &quot;auction game&quot;; Power Grid, as an &quot;economic game&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;do we simply need to pick our 'closest match' and try to clarify how we cross genres in the actual description of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How you identify this aspect of your game is solely a question of marketing, and it's entirely up to you. Don't waste words trying to explain how your game straddles common genres in the industry. From a marketing perspective, it's boring, invites arguments, and most importantly, doesn't advance the idea that the game is worth buying and playing. Talk about the actual game itself and why it's cool and fun instead. The gaming community will naturally figure out which of the &quot;traditional&quot; labels fits best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12408" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T01:53:52.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23819" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23820" CreationDate="2015-04-17T16:50:36.033" Score="3" ViewCount="886" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the scenario: I have a ship currently in an opponent's sector, he has no ships.  Do the rules allow for me to remove his influence disc and place one of my own?  The rules (2nd ed) around influence action are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may move an influence disk to one of the following (forgive the paraphrasing):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sector where there is not currently an influence disk there and you have an adjacent sector under your influence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sector where only you have a ship&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back to your track&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering if anyone has any actual evidence one way or the other on this, because it seems that under the second condition, you may use the influence action to remove an influence tile and place one of your own.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a couple forum posts on this, most answers I have seen have been something to the effect of &quot;you can never remove an opponent's influence disc except during combat phase&quot; with next to no justification in the actual rules for that statement, though it seems this is still the general consensus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planets also complicate the question, as it &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; explicitly stated that you may not send population cubes to occupied planets (rather, it says you may only colonize unoccupied planets), and there is no mechanism for destroying population cubes other than at the end of combat phase, neutron bombs or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group and I are looking to make an official ruling going forward, and to us evidence is paramount.  What we are leaning towards is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the second condition of influence action, it is possible to place an influence disc on an opponent's sector, returning that influence disc to their track.  However, you may not colonize occupied planets.  Therefore, using the influence action in this way is possible yet not necessarily wise (you are giving your opponent an extra disc to take action, without them losing their population cubes until the end of the next combat phase -- and only if you still have a ship there at the end of that combat phase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12411" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T18:41:27.240" Title="Eclipse - Influence action to remove enemy discs?" Tags="|eclipse|influence|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23819" CreationDate="2015-04-17T18:19:08.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the best evidence I can find, no, you cannot remove an enemy influence disc with the Influence action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that by a literal reading of the second edition rules, this would be allowed. It appears that this is an oversight that was made when they updated the wording for the second edition. The best evidence would be that the first edition rules do NOT allow this. I believe that ruling the other way would require a statement about this rule being errata'd between editions. But nothing like this is listed in any of the 1st edition errata. It seems that the intent is that the influence space must always be empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also a good argument that the rules make no mention of removing an opponent's influence disc as an allowed part of the influence action. So if you were to follow the rules completely literally, you would have to move your influence disc to the spot where the opponent's influence disc already is, without moving his. So you would have both influence discs there together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See discussion on this question &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1108301/using-influence-remove-influence&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T18:41:27.240" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T18:41:27.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23801" CreationDate="2015-04-17T20:13:36.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 10 of the rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple players face revolts this winter, the revolts are resolved in the turn order of the preceding fall round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="990" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T20:13:36.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23824" CreationDate="2015-04-17T22:42:20.007" Score="1" ViewCount="1979" Body="&lt;p&gt;1: If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Moon&quot;&gt;Blood Moon&lt;/a&gt; is on the battlefield, will &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Back%20to%20Basics&quot;&gt;Back to Basics&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning%20Earth&quot;&gt;Burning Earth&lt;/a&gt;, etc. have any effect?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2: What about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%2C%20Tomb%20of%20Yawgmoth&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3: Will a nonbasic with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Growth&quot;&gt;Wild Growth&lt;/a&gt; get an extra green mana?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4: What about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Awaken%20the%20Ancient&quot;&gt;Awaken the Ancient&lt;/a&gt; on a nonbasic mountain?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;5: Can a nonbasic with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abundant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Abundant Growth&lt;/a&gt; still tap for any color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:17:55.203" Title="What all does Blood Moon affect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23822" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:04:46.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The lands are still not basic lands. They are non-basic lands that are mountains. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Urbog will have no effect, because as a mountain it will have lost its other abilities, including the swamp-making ability. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3,4,5, yes; the land will behave exactly like a regular mountain that has those enchantments on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T23:17:55.203" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:17:55.203" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23822" CreationDate="2015-04-17T23:10:27.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the will work normally. Blood Moon only changes the subtype to mountain, it doesn't add the supertype &amp;quot;basic&amp;quot;. &amp;quot;Mountain&amp;quot; as a card name and &amp;quot;mountain&amp;quot; as a subtype of land are different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Urbog will have no effect. Urbog will be turned into a mountain, so it will lose its ability to make other lands into swamps. Urbog's effect depends on Blood Moon effect because of rule 613.7a, so Blood Moon effect is always applied first, and Urbog's ability is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that mana is added because of Wild Growht's ability. Blood Moon doesn't affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Awaken the Ancient can be played on a non basic land if Blood Moon is in the battlefield. If Blood Moon leaves the battlefield, Awaken the Ancient will be put in the graveyard (unless the original land had the moutain subtype, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stomping%20Ground&quot;&gt;Stomping Ground&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the lands still have the extra ability granted by Abundant Growth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2015-04-17T23:15:37.890" LastActivityDate="2015-04-17T23:15:37.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23825" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23826" CreationDate="2015-04-18T01:53:03.383" Score="5" ViewCount="593" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quite often in games, you'll go into negative reputation, and move backwards on the reputation track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should you do here re: adjusting reputation and income? Should re-decrease your income and reputation when you pass forwards over the line again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T02:10:49.997" Title="What happens if you pass backwards over a red line?" Tags="|suburbia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23825" CreationDate="2015-04-18T02:10:49.997" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you increase income and reputation when passing backwards over it, and decrease them when passing forwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player's Population crosses a Red Line, then that player's Income and Reputation are both reduced by 1 (moved to the left one space) for every Red Line the player moves past. If a player's Population dips below a Red Line (this can happen if he has a negative reputation) he moves both his Income Cylinder and his Reputation Cube forward (moved to the right one space).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T02:10:49.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23817" CreationDate="2015-04-18T19:00:59.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally, score handicaps are the way to go. You don't have to worry about playing games and experimenting in order to find a balance, you can just use the knowledge you already have of how much you tend to win by.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Money handicap could possibly work, but I think it'd be pretty tough - you only have so much room to adjust before it basically becomes a &quot;you have waste one early turn to build a lake right away&quot; handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, you can also just not make the handicap formal: try to do the best you can every game, and accept the fact that you're striving for a larger margin of victory instead of worrying about winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-04-18T19:00:59.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23832" CreationDate="2015-04-18T19:57:21.003" Score="0" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a board game about gem collecting. To collect gems players must invest on different gems in their turns (i.e. resource collecting is done using investment). Investment part in my design is as simple as follows:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are 6 mines that can produce different gems, numbered 1 through 6. Each player chooses 3 gem mines then toss a d6 die. If the die number is equal to one of the chosen gem mines, then the player collects a gem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mechanic doesn't work too well for me, so I am looking for suggestions to improve it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have a suggestion and you know that another game exists that uses a similar mechanic, please include that in your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12417" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-04-20T15:33:19.627" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:33:19.627" Title="Investment Mechanics" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-04-19T07:19:42.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23830" CreationDate="2015-04-19T05:24:28.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the mechanic you came up with doesn't work well for 1 dice per player. Basically you're taking the luck of the dice roll, and adding another luck factor. You can cancel this out by allowing the use of more dice. What if the gems you collect can be used to purchase more dice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should take a look at the way resource collection is managed in &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stone_Age_%28board_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stone Age&lt;/a&gt;, as an inspiration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T05:24:28.100" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23834" CreationDate="2015-04-19T09:07:10.897" Score="2" ViewCount="1219" Body="&lt;p&gt;For purposes of movement and weapon range, are diagonally connected corners concidered adjacent? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T09:07:42.670" Title="Are diagonal corners concidered adjacent?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23833" CreationDate="2015-04-19T09:07:42.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the middle of the right-hand side of page 8 of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote:&#xA;Investigators may move between two spaces that are diagonally &#xA;adjacent. Due to imperfections in die cutting, if spaces between &#xA;two tiles appear that they should be diagonally adjacent, then they &#xA;are. All non-adjacent spaces very clearly do not share a white &#xA;border by at least 1/8 of an inch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T09:07:42.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23835" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T09:50:57.777" Score="5" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose, the declarer claims 12 tricks in a slam, but you have the opinion that&#xA;declarer can make a mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you demand declarer to play it out, or does the tournament director decide&#xA;how many tricks declarer can claim ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the last answer is right, does this not prevent the defense from profitting&#xA;from declarer's errors ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12384" LastEditorUserId="26665" LastEditDate="2021-06-25T19:36:11.680" LastActivityDate="2021-06-26T13:57:39.530" Title="Does the possibility of claiming tricks prevent the defense from profitting from declarer's errors?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23836" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T10:05:33.913" Score="2" ViewCount="96" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a side misses an alert and the other side protests, the tournament director&#xA;must decide if the missing alert is a disadvantage for the protesting side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not possible to check, if the situation is prepared by the side or not,&#xA;so the tournament director must decide, if this is the case or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is it true that making a &quot;strange&quot; bid twice in a row without alert leads to the assumption that the situation is prepared ?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12384" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T12:15:06.107" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T12:44:45.310" Title="How are missing alerts handled?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23836" CreationDate="2015-04-19T12:18:48.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that your &lt;em&gt;partnership agreements&lt;/em&gt; of which the opponents must be made aware specifically includes all inferences from repeated occurrences. So yes, if you make the same unusual action twice in a short span of time the &lt;em&gt;burden of proof&lt;/em&gt; is on you to establish that the action is not a partnership agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge - 2008 Revised Authorized Edition&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 40&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Partnership Agreements&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A. Player's Systemic Agreements&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1 (a): Partnership understandings as to the methods adopted by the partnership may be reached explicitly in discussion or implicitly through&#xA;mutual experience or awareness of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T12:44:45.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23835" CreationDate="2015-04-19T13:10:25.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question displays a gross misunderstanding of the capabilities of good players, even those merely the best in their club. At the club in Kingston where I mastered the game, the &lt;strong&gt;top 10 or 12&lt;/strong&gt; players could all remember the location of every significant card, for all 26 hands of a session, even several hours after a game. Once or twice a year the Director would be called in the auction of the first or second round with &quot;This hand hasn't been shuffled since last week.&quot;, followed by an outline of where all the cards were in all four hands, and what contracts could and couldn't be made by both sides. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, a &lt;em&gt;sound claim&lt;/em&gt; must cover all possible lies of the cards that remain possible given the knowledge available when the claim is made. It is for this reason that claims are only rarely made when trumps are outstanding. However it is not at all unusual for expert players to claim and concede even endplays such as Throw-ins and Simple and Double Squeezes. At this caliber of play, those techniques are common place, and thoroughly understood by all parties. By the time the hands are well enough known for a &lt;em&gt;sound claim&lt;/em&gt; to be made, &lt;strong&gt;there are no mistakes left to be made in the hand by any competent, never mind expert, player&lt;/strong&gt;; any to be made are already history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-04-19T13:23:36.220" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T13:23:36.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-19T21:46:54.183" Score="3" ViewCount="145" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the score count for a hand with 3 - fours and 1 - seven&#xA;my thought is 12.  For 3 - fours equal 6 points (3 royal pairs) and the three royal pairs of 2-fours and the seven = 6 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12424" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T15:13:56.187" Title="Cribbage scoring for one hand less starter card" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23835" CreationDate="2015-04-19T21:57:04.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebu.co.uk/documents/laws-and-ethics/laws/laws.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Laws Of Bridge (pdf)&lt;/a&gt;, specifically Laws 68-71.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a claim is doubted by any player (including dummy) the Director must be summoned. It's worth noting that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A claim should be accompanied at once by a clear statement as to the order&#xA;  in which cards will be played, of the line of play or defence through which&#xA;  the claimer proposes to win the tricks claimed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Director shall not accept from claimer any successful line of play&#xA;  not embraced in the original clarification statement if there is an&#xA;  alternative normal line of play that would be less successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“normal” includes play that would be careless or inferior for the class of player involved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the rules would preclude a claimer from gaining an advantage by claiming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T21:57:04.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23841" CreationDate="2015-04-19T22:33:40.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I read you correctly, you're describing a hand like 4H 4D 4S 7D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H 4D 7D - 15 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H 4S 7D - 15 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4D 4S 7D - 15 6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H 4D - pair (2 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4H 4S - pair (2 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4D 4S - pair (2 points)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are indeed correct that this adds to 12 points. You are also correct that you can shortcut the pairs to 6 points as Pair Royal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-04-19T22:33:40.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23851" CreationDate="2015-04-20T01:25:16.790" Score="8" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a board game that connects pieces together, like  a puzzle, but they can be flipped over, so I have found a picture of what I think would be a good connector piece, but I'm not sure what it would be called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xf6Kb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;http://i.imgur.com/ACFAZCE&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A piece like this would help me connect my double sided pieces together in any configuration. What is this connector piece called?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12333" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:38:47.867" Title="Looking for name of a double ended connector" Tags="|game-design|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23848" CreationDate="2015-04-20T15:01:58.060" Score="2" ViewCount="1287" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards have an ability - 'you may destroy target base'. The rules say that a ships primary ability is triggered immediately when it is played. If I use a ship with that ability and combat points, can I destroy an opponent's outpost using this ability, before using my combat points to damage my opponent's authority or another base, or are the combat points immediately used on the outpost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that both the combat points and the text ability are used effectively simultaneously, so I can choose to do either first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is correct, what about the case of the Blob Destroyer, where the base-destroying ability is only activated when the second Blob ship/base is out? Do I have to play the Blob Destroyer after another blob to take advantage of this ability on the outpost, leaving myself in the situation of deciding which Blob's combat points to waste on the outpost before it is destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7079" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:21:02.213" Title="You may destroy target base - can this destroy outposts before combat damage is done?" Tags="|star-realms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23847" CreationDate="2015-04-20T15:21:02.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can destroy the base first.  There is no requirement that combat points be used immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Two Player rules link at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starrealms.com/learn-to-play/&quot;&gt;http://www.starrealms.com/learn-to-play/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an ability grants Combat or trade, that resource goes into a resource pool, which can be used at any point during the Main Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the electronic version of the game acts the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T15:21:02.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23723" CreationDate="2015-04-20T20:16:34.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guidance from the updated 2005 Europe rules almost assuredly applies. You MAY take losses on allied units even when on the attack, and furthermore, MUST take them if there are not enough attacking units to take all the losses. Allied subs may NOT submerge as they never rolled dice. Quote below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When German subs are attacked in a zone that contains Allied naval units of more than one nationality, Allied losses can be taken from any of those Allied vessels. If the defending German subs score more hits than the attacking player has ships, must the excess hits be taken from the Allied ships that are standing by? For example, a sea zone is occupied by three German subs and two British transports. The US player brings in two destroyers and attacks the subs. The German player rolls his defensive dice and scores three hits! Must the Allies lose three ships, even though the Americans attacked with only two?&#xA;  A guiding principle throughout the rules is that if there is a way to apportion hits so they result in losses, the losses must be taken. In this case, the Allies must lose three ships; whether those are two destroyers and a transport or two transports and a destroyer is up to the Allied players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the previous example, what if the British transports had been subs instead? Could they submerge to avoid becoming casualties?&#xA;  The only time subs can submerge is immediately before rolling dice, whether attacking or defending. In this example, the British subs can't submerge because they don't get to roll dice (they're not defenders -- Germany is defending, the US is attacking, and the British are just innocent bystanders caught in the crossfire).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12430" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:16:34.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23622" CreationDate="2015-04-20T20:28:41.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, it is not particularly clear that A&amp;amp;A 1940 was balanced WITH all the rules - the changes in the second edition (unless you were referencing that) do in most people's opinions contribute to balance (VCs for Axis and setup changes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with that, though, the NOs do contribute to game balance pretty greatly. Note that they are not symmetric - the US for instance purely gains income when at war, whereas Germany has both peace and wartime NOs. The loss of US and Soviet extra income will definitely be detrimental to their cause. Replacing NOs with free income is a reasonable idea, especially given how nebulous NO &quot;hardness&quot; is, but make sure to not just add it all the time - add NO income when appropriate (when at war, with who, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12430" LastActivityDate="2015-04-20T20:28:41.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23844" CreationDate="2015-04-20T21:41:20.027" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question would probably receive a better answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/&quot;&gt;Woodworking SE&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butterfly_joint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, as well as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/butterfly-key&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Canadian Woodworking&lt;/a&gt;, this is called a Dovetail key, Dutchman joint, or Butterfly joint. Another common name for it is a Bowtie joint/key. Below is the picture shown on Wikipedia:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EAzMx.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dovetail keys are used to hold together two boards or one board that has begun to split (to prevent further splitting). In &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/DLQkk-x5CeI?t=848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Youtube video&lt;/a&gt;, a woodworker further elaborates on its uses and also demonstrates how to make one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:49:01.923" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:38:47.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-20T23:16:15.640" Score="10" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Scrabble, each letter is worth a number of points. Typically, the rarer the letter, the more score it has, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrabble_letter_distributions&quot;&gt;Scrabble letter distribution and score&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know how these scores are being assigned? (Or modified, if needed.) Is it based on some gut-feeling, or a formula/algorithm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see, the score is proportional to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Self-information&quot;&gt;surprisal&lt;/a&gt; (from information theory), i.e. \log(1/p), where p is the frequency of a given letter in a given language. Just I am not sure, if such scoring is planned mathematically, or appeared as some emergent behavior (e.g. other scoring seems unfair, unnatural, etc...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3609" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T10:23:32.950" Title="Origin of scores for letters in Scrabble (in relation to their frequency in a langauge)" Tags="|game-design|scrabble|scoring|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23852" CreationDate="2015-04-21T02:52:12.293" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scrabble tile frequencies were almost certainly tweaked based on playtesting as well as letter frequency.  The fact that there are only 4 's' tiles was probably intended to decrease the probability of getting the most useful letter to make the game less about simply pluralizing things.  Words with Friends tweaked the frequencies further- they added an 'e' and removed an 'i', for example.  I imagine that was based on feedback that Scrabble players get too many 'i' tiles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that a lexicographic search would inflate the number of 'i' letters appearing in text or a dictionary, e.g. if there are lots of 'ing' and 'tion' words that are common in print but don't come up as often in scrabble due to the probability of getting those other letters.  In other words, while 'i' may be 3/4 as common as e in the English, the ability to place that letter in Scrabble is less than that ratio would imply because there are fewer letter sequences in which 'i' can appear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="172" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T02:52:12.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23856" CreationDate="2015-04-21T10:32:34.717" Score="0" ViewCount="1430" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for dividers to order a card collection. I find some on a website but I really don't understand the dimensions: 2-11/16&quot; x 3-13/16&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it (2*11/16)&quot; x (3*13/16)&quot;? It would be rather complicated...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance for your help.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12434" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T15:13:57.483" Title="What is this notation for dimensions: 2-11/16&quot; x 3-13/16&quot;" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23854" CreationDate="2015-04-21T12:48:33.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;&quot;&lt;/code&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=2-11%2F16%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;2-11/16&quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; denotes inches. The number of inches is written using a common notation for representing improper fractions using only ASCII characters. The represented fraction is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7nfHP.png&quot; alt=&quot;2-11/16&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;2-11/16&quot;&lt;/code&gt; means &quot;two inches and eleven-sixteenth&quot;, so the number of inches is actually 2+(11/16) = (2*16+11)/16 = 2.6875, or about 68.3 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, 3-13/16&quot; means 3.8125 inches, or about 96.8 mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T15:13:57.483" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T15:13:57.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23854" CreationDate="2015-04-21T12:49:15.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;2-11/16&quot; x 3-13/16&quot; means 2 and 11/16 inches by 3 and 13/16 inches, or 2.6875 inches x 3.8125 inches. This works out to be about 68.2625mm x 96.8375mm. For reference Magic cards are about 63mm x 88mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T14:59:35.403" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:59:35.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23858" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:18:25.423" Score="0" ViewCount="1523" Body="&lt;p&gt;If 2 copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleam%20of%20Authority&quot;&gt;Gleam of Authority&lt;/a&gt; are on the board would that mean that +1/+1 counters would bounce back and fourth to infinity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12435" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T14:50:16.277" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:50:16.277" Title="Double Gleam of Authority interaction" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-04-21T16:20:39.027" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23858" CreationDate="2015-04-21T14:45:21.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it would not.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You misunderstood how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleam%20of%20Authority&quot;&gt;Gleam of Authority&lt;/a&gt; works. Gleam does not place +1/+1 counters on the creature it enchants, it simply gives it +1/+1 for each counter on other creatures. The difference is that counters remain on the permanent they are placed on while the +1/+1 granted by an enchantment disappears when the enchantment is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T14:45:21.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23863" CreationDate="2015-04-21T15:05:53.157" Score="6" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you restock hand cards at the end of each turn, yes or no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've always played it so you restock your hand to four cards, as is explicitly stated in the Dutch rules. Other languages aren't as specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English rules for Alhambra, by Queen, describe the actions at the end of a turn as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.world-of-board-games.com.sg/docs/Alhambra.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;English&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When your turn is over it is the next player's turn. Before the next player decides what to do, any money cards or building tiles which have been removed are replaced with new ones &lt;strong&gt;so that there are four of each again&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if I look at the Dutch rules (also by Queen) and translate them, there's a significant difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jumbo.eu/media/products/assets/manuals/1cfe9ec7-00cd-51c3-8aa9-21251c407b57.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dutch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When your turn is over it is the next player's turn. Now all money cards and missing building tiles are supplemented &lt;strong&gt;until every player once again has 4 cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally I would look to the German rules (also by Queen) for an answer, since the game is made in Germany. This one reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielezentrum.de/Turniere/DM2007/Download07/RV07-Downl/Alhambra-Regl.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  After you end your turn, the next player is up. For that, missing money cards and missing building tiles are &lt;strong&gt;restocked to four each&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:56:27.793" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:56:27.793" Title="Do you restock hand cards at the end of each turn? Different language editions seem to have different rulings" Tags="|edition-comparison|alhambra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23861" CreationDate="2015-04-21T15:32:13.417" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't restock your hand of cards, you restock the four money cards on the board which are available to take, the same way you restock the tiles available to buy. That looks consistent with the English and German rules; I would assume the Dutch is the mistake, that they meant until each &lt;em&gt;supply&lt;/em&gt; has four cards/tiles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say the English and German rules are fairly specific about that, and it takes some substantial stretching to get them to mean anything else. And the Dutch sounds like fairly awkward phrasing for restocking the supply on the table, which surely must be done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-04-21T15:43:49.300" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T15:43:49.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23861" CreationDate="2015-04-21T20:58:41.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming everything else in the rules is the same as the English translation (i.e. you adding cards to your hand ends your turn), it would make no sense to also &quot;restock your hand to four cards from the supply&quot;. So, in agreement with others, I think the Dutch must have a mistranslation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-04-21T20:58:41.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23852" CreationDate="2015-04-22T00:24:33.007" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is touched upon in the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/scrabble/en_US/story.cfm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;History of Scrabble&lt;/a&gt; by Hasbro, the owner of Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Legend has it Butts studied the front page of “The New York Times” to make his calculations for the letter distribution in the game. This skilled, cryptographic analysis of our language formed the basis of the original tile distribution, which has remained constant through almost three generations and billions of games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have misplaced (or more likely given away, &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt;) my copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1416561757&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Everything Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;, but I remember bits of what I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; I remember reading there (hows &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; for reliable source?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I remember reading, the letter distribution in Scrabble has continuously slid in favor of people who memorize things like 2-Letter Lists and Q without U words. Even with two well-read players who have never really studied the English language as it relates to Scrabble, the distribution is off-kilter for the normal vocabulary in 2015. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not your imagination, there &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; too many Is. People who know that QI and ZA are words, really tip the value (and risk) of those letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only Hasbro can change Scrabble, but Words With Friends is gaining popularity in part because the tiles more closely represent the way the English language is used today. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the tile values change with the times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is ZA really a word?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has X become the best letter in the alphabet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are hotly debated subjects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The history of how the tiles got their distribution seems pretty clear, even if it is described in the official history as a legend. What is less clear is the origin of the point value of individual letters. I think the point value is a part of the same thing, unchanged since the Scrabble name, but that the values were printed on the scorecard, not the tiles. Unfortunately, I have no citation for that, it's one of those things that I read somewhere - or maybe I saw an antique scorecard on display - who knows? But I am fairly certain that the official Scrabble point value per letter has remained unchanged along with the distribution of 100 letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6299" LastEditorUserId="6299" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T10:23:32.950" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T10:23:32.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23866" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-22T01:30:30.440" Score="4" ViewCount="498" Body="&lt;p&gt;In playing a two player variant of sheepshead, the group I play with decided that it wasn't that much fun. So I simplified it, and taught it to my niece (5 years old) as a start to learning about trick taking games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deck of 4 suits, 2-9 (32 cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal out a 4x4 grid face down&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal out a 4x4 grid on top of the face down cards face up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player plays the face up cards from the 8 stacks closest to them at the start of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Follow suit lead if possible, diamonds are trump&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a face down card is uncovered, at the end of the trick, flip it over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player who takes the most tricks wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a rather straight forward game.  Its about learning how to follow suit and what to throw off when you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And while we believe that there is a first player advantage to this, how does one quantify that amount to determine if a handicap for the second player (beyond winning a tie) is necessary?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12439" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-24T01:03:09.647" LastActivityDate="2017-03-24T01:03:09.647" Title="How to quantify first player advantage?" Tags="|house-rules|handicap|sheepshead|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23866" CreationDate="2015-04-22T04:03:24.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a great game for younger kids - but it must play so fast that I wouldn't even worry about handicapping for first player. Simply play First and First sets of two games, each player going first once, and play for total tricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice any advantage less than half a trick will require playing several games anyways, in order for the advantage to get &lt;em&gt;on the scoreboard&lt;/em&gt;. So just use that as an excuse to play more hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you really want to handicap individual games, allow second player to name trumps after the deal is complete. This again should be less than half a trick, but will swing opposite the other so likely educes the net advantage. That will really highlight the importance of trump length over trump strength, a vitally important concept for the more complicated trump games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To really spice up the game a bit, allow Notrump as a denomination as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T04:03:24.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23868" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23877" CreationDate="2015-04-22T05:12:19.757" Score="4" ViewCount="2947" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a trick taking game played with a standard suite of cards. There is a variant where the jokers are used, but I will be describing the standard game. The translation of the name is '400'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It needs 4 players. Each player is dealt 13 cards. Hearts are trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of a game, each player states the minimum amount of tricks they are going to win. If you claim that you will win 5 or more tricks, your score will be doubled (i.e 6. tricks means 12 points). If the total number of tricks between the players is not at least 11, cards are reshuffled and dealt out again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player with the 2 of clubs starts by placing it down. Each player then attempts to play a card of a matching suit, with the highest card winning the trick. If they don't have the matching suit they can play a trump card, which will automatically win the trick (unless someone plays a higher trump). Any card from another suit is considered 'dead' (i.e. no chance of winning the trick)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the following tricks, players can play any cards except the trump suit unless the trump had already been played in previous rounds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game ends when one player reaches 100 points. If you lose a round, your bet gets deducted from your points total&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-12-28T12:27:58.613" LastActivityDate="2021-12-28T12:27:58.613" Title="Is there an English name for this popular Lebanese card game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|trick-taking-games|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32535" CreationDate="2015-04-22T10:42:07.687" Score="3" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; is a fantastic resource for finding cards in paper magic, but does not seem to me to contain any way of getting only Duels of the Planeswalkers cards. Neither the Expansion, Format or Block filters contain anything like Duels 2015 (although the expansion filter contains several Duels of planeswalker1 vs planeswalker2). Does some other searchable database exist that contains the Duels 2015 cards only?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;**Edit/clarification**:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;There is a [Duels of the Planeswalkers theme set][2]. To clarify: I am not interested in those cards, but instead the Duels of the Planeswalkers video game and specifically the 2015 version. &#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-09T16:00:26.120" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T15:02:06.437" Title="Is there an equivalent of gatherer for Duels of the Planeswalkers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23868" CreationDate="2015-04-22T11:23:55.813" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/400_(card_game)&quot;&gt;the fount of all knowledge&lt;/a&gt; it's called 400, is a Lebanese game, and bears some resemblance to &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spades&quot;&gt;Spades&lt;/a&gt; but with a few differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T11:23:55.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23869" CreationDate="2015-04-22T12:58:04.847" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a searchable database like Gatherer that lists DotP cards, because most places that allow you to search for cards either get their info from Gatherer or MagicCards.info (or a thrid party that gets their info from one of those sources like MtGJSON) and neither of those sites allow you to search for DotP cards. There are however places that list all, or most of the cards from each expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150922070037/http://community.wizards.com/forum/mtg-duels-planeswalkers/threads/4104891&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DotP 2015&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.examiner.com/article/magic-2015-garruk-s-revenge-card-list&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151101094058/https://community.wizards.com/forum/mtg-duels-planeswalkers/threads/3924271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DotP 2014&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150920044649/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/digital/duelsoftheplaneswalkers.aspx?x=mtg/digital/d13/decklists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DotP 2013&lt;/a&gt; + &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150921090812/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/digital/duelsoftheplaneswalkers.aspx?x=mtg/digital/d13/expansion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150920050302/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/digital/duelsoftheplaneswalkers.aspx?x=mtg/digital/d12/decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DotP 2012&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150920015744/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/digital/duelsoftheplaneswalkers.aspx?x=mtg/digital/dotp/decks/and/unlocks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DotP (2009)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T15:02:06.437" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T15:02:06.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23866" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:15:44.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way to remove a first-player advantage (in general for any open-information game) is to let one player make a proposed first move. Then the other player can choose to play as either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to splitting a cake by letting one person cut and one person choose. The first player cannot take too obviously powerful a first move, or the second player will opt to choose that side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T13:15:44.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23868" CreationDate="2015-04-22T13:43:09.110" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like AndyT said in his answer, the game is 400 according to all the cited sources he mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference between 400 and spades is in the scoring, and that spades are trump instead of hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spades is a team game with 2 teams of 2 players. The bidding is combined based on how many tricks the team will take. If you take as many tricks as you bid, the team gets 10 points per trick that was bid. If you do not take as many tricks as you bid, you lose 10 points per trick that was bid. The minimum team bid is 4 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double points only occur when the team can bid and pull 10 tricks, scoring them 200 points instead of 100. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that covers the major points, but there are other differences as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8340" LastEditorUserId="8340" LastEditDate="2015-04-22T21:20:34.527" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T21:20:34.527" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23879" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:23:45.060" Score="8" ViewCount="638" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08040&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Breaker Bay Grid&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rez cost of cards in this server is lowered by 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Limit 1 region per server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can this be used to lower the cost of rezzing another Region (and then trashing Breaker Bay Grid to satisfy &quot;Limit 1 region per server&quot;) like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01092&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;SanSan City Grid&lt;/a&gt;, or must I trash the first Region before rezzing the second?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4qKUr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mhgy5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:56:56.060" Title="Can Breaker Bay Grid be used to reduce cost of other Regions?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23878" CreationDate="2015-04-22T18:56:56.060" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot because upgrades are always installed un-rezzed from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to put &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01092&quot;&gt;SanSan City Grid&lt;/a&gt; onto a server you first have to discard &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08040&quot;&gt;Breaker Bay Grid&lt;/a&gt;. Therefore by the time you can rez SanSan City Grid you no longer have the effect of Breaker Bay Grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note the reason is because you aren't allowed to have two regions installed and the time to discard the other one is before the new one is played per the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2015-04-22T18:56:56.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12613" CreationDate="2015-04-23T07:16:12.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We start with 4 Heroes. Everyone gets the XP and the loot. Even if there are only 3 Heroes, we take the 4 Heroes Loot (if its making an difference). Else the Heroes would be Later on to weak. Also for Shopping we play with 4 Hero rules. And if the Playnumber increase between scenes. We allow the Overlord to draw one Card. Groupsize should fit to the heroes (as normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12452" LastEditorUserId="12452" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T07:36:37.493" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T07:36:37.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12356" CreationDate="2015-04-23T07:22:48.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Monster is killed in current Hero turn, the Overlord can spawn it again in his turn. He just need to watch the groupsize and the numbers of Monsters he's allowed to spawn and the Moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And yes it can be an Advantage for the Overlord, if you kill an single big Monster and he's allowed to spawn it in the beginnig next to you. Its like an free heal. But thats descent and an tactical component. (Our Overlord Killed his Monster with a trap, to get a new on with full hp.))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12452" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T07:22:48.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9494" CreationDate="2015-04-23T07:32:49.317" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;He needs to watch:&#xA;1. the groupsize&#xA;2. the numbers of Monsters he's allowed to spawn&#xA;3. the Moment.&#xA;4. Conditions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spawnig rules for Every Quest, are described in the Questbook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spawn 1 Zombie(2) in the Beginng(3), Keep Groupsize(1)&#xA;(In the Beginng allows the Overlord to use his Monsters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spawn 2 Zombies(2) in the Ende(3),Keep Groupsize(1), if THE token is worn by Hero(4)&#xA;(He needs to watch the Conditions (E.g. Some Events during the Quest, If its in the End He cant use his Monster)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he keeps winnig, he's just a good overlord :D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12452" LastEditorUserId="12452" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T07:43:27.840" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T07:43:27.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23883" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T12:17:36.820" Score="8" ViewCount="1763" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation: Player A has 1 life and several lifelink creatures adding up to 100 power. He swings at player B who has no defenders, planning to gain 100 life. Player B concedes. Without a valid defending player, player A can gain no life and has tapped all his creatures, and so player C can swing with a 2/2 and kill him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A claims he can redirect his attack to player C after player B concedes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: as per the official rules, can player A redirect his attack in response to player B conceding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already know the real answer is to play with sportsmanship in mind. In the specific example we were all having fun winding up player A, all done in good humour and would not be tolerated in a deliberately spiteful manner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was simply curious how the official rules would deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="8021" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T15:08:58.117" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T15:08:58.117" Title="Can a player redirect his attack if the defending player concedes?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23883" CreationDate="2015-04-23T12:31:20.067" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they cannot change who they are attacking. Once a creature has been declared as an attacker you cannot change who (or what) it is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say instead of attacking Player B directly you attack their Planeswalker, but before damage gets dealt they &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boomerang&quot;&gt;Boomerang&lt;/a&gt; the Planeswalker back to their hand. You would not be able to redirect your creatures attack to that player, they would just end up ineffectually attacking the air. It is the same thing when a player concedes, your attackers are still going attacking the one player even if they leave the game before the creatures deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also this rule that implies you can still have creatures attacking a player that is no longer in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4e&lt;/strong&gt; If combat damage would be assigned to a player who has left the game, that damage isn’t assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-04-23T13:46:37.567" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:46:37.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23886" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:03:32.570" Score="3" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to pay extra spades (with for example workers) when you choose power action 5 or 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6225" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:45:02.143" Title="ACT5 and ACT6 + pay extra spades" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23885" CreationDate="2015-04-23T13:45:02.143" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll be quoting from the rule book &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Terra_Mystica.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 10 has general rules for using Spades. In general, if you're gaining Spades during an Action phase, you can exchange Workers to finish the job. If you gain the Spades outside of the Action phase (such as for the Cult Bonus), you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Game Board Power Action Spaces&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For spaces 5 and 6 you can exchange Workers for Spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Page 17:&lt;/em&gt; If these Spades do not suffice to transform a given Terrain space into your Home terrain, you may exchange Workers* for the missing Spade – at the current Exchange rate on your Exchange track. If you only need one Spade to transform a Terrain space into your Home terrain, you may spend the second Spade on another Terrain space. However, you may not place a Dwelling on this other space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Darklings need to exchange 1 Priest for each missing Spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Bonus Cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the Special Action on the Bonus card (scroll) to gain a Spade, the same rules apply (page 19).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cult Bonus Spades&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Page 15:&lt;/em&gt; You may not acquire additional Spades when getting them as a Cult bonus. You may not save Spades for future turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T13:45:02.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23890" CreationDate="2015-04-23T18:37:09.557" Score="3" ViewCount="341" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Late Arrival&quot; card tells to look at the top 3 cards, and add one of them to the end of the line. What should one do with the other two cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7R5kv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Late Arrival card from the Guillotine&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T18:56:22.330" Title="Late Arrival: What to do with the other two cards? (Guillotine)" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23889" CreationDate="2015-04-23T18:56:22.330" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the card doesn't tell you to do anything special with the other 2 cards they should remain on top of the deck in their original order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is supported by an answer to a similar question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/235968/callous-guards-and-other-question&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T18:56:22.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23892" CreationDate="2015-04-23T19:18:20.857" Score="0" ViewCount="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;A round in Paris Connection will end, when someone constructs a route to Marseille. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If player A has enough pawns to construct a route also to Toulon, can he/she also make a route to Toulon on the same turn as he/she places a marker on Marseille? (see the attached picture).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/04Zn9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Route to Toulon through Marseille in Paris Connection&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T19:37:07.450" Title="Can you construct a railway to Toulon through Marseille? (Paris Connection)" Tags="|paris-connection|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23891" CreationDate="2015-04-23T19:37:07.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1355526/game-end-really-immediately&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; response on BoardGameGeeks, immediately means after you are done completing the action that causes the game to end. This is a poor wording then in the game rules, and it should say instead of 'immediately' &quot;at the end of the current turn&quot;, or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T19:37:07.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T19:53:43.517" Score="0" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in Texas holdem if two players have a straight with the same card who wins, (one player has a pair of 6s and the other player has a king)?? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12457" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T20:12:28.397" Title="Texas holdem who wins" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-04-24T13:36:27.970" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23893" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:09:04.413" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'Em you use the strongest five-card hand that can be made using your two in-hand cards and the 5 board cards.  The two cards that you do not use are ignored completely and have no effect on the hand rankings.  (This is similar to 7-card stud and other 7-card variants)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example you present, it sounds like each player has an identically-ranked straight as their best five cards.  The pair of sixes would be ignored, as would the high-card king.  This would be a tie and the two players would split the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T20:09:04.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23893" CreationDate="2015-04-23T20:12:28.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Texas Hold'em you construct the best 5 card hand you can out of the 7 cards available. The cards not included in the hand have no bearing on the winning or losing of any individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the scenario you described, if both players have straights and that are made up of the same set of cards and neither has a straight flush, then it is a tie and the pot is split.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8425" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T20:12:28.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23085" CreationDate="2015-04-23T21:48:19.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/civilization/news/Civilization%20FAQ_v2.0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ 2.0&lt;/a&gt;, page 2, we have the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can a scout gather icons and/or resources from a square  in another&#xA;  city’s outskirts? What if the square contains a  building or a wonder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: A scout can gather resources from a square in another city’s &#xA;  outskirts, even if that square contains a building or wonder. If  the&#xA;  scout sends those icons and resources to a different city,  the&#xA;  original city cannot also use those icons and resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: When a scout moves into or out of a square with a coin  icon, is&#xA;  the coin total updated immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes. This can result in an economic victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, it appears that two things are true.  First, when a scout moves, the tile it is sending to the city also updates (as evidenced by the coin example).  Second, if a scout is on a tile of one city, the resources from that tile can be routed to a different city or not, but cannot be double counted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would appear from this that the behavior of the scout is to have the tile it is on considered part of a city of your choice.  If the scout moves, the resources it is sending are changed to the scout's new location.  If the tile the scout is on is modified, the resources the scout is sending also update (exactly the same as if that tile were in the city radius of the city the scout is sending resources to).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-10-09T19:25:51.187" LastActivityDate="2018-10-09T19:25:51.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23917" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:28:30.730" Score="3" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of two: The first one is when the opener bids no trump. Then the responder knows that the opener has a &quot;balanced&quot; hand, and 15-17 high card points for 1NT, 20-21 for 2NT, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is when the opener bids 2 clubs (strong), the responder 2 diamonds (waiting), and the opener bids a suit (or no trump). Then the responder knows opener's strength (22+ points) and preferred suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In these cases, the responder is &quot;captain,&quot; because he knows his own hand, and has a pretty good idea of opener's. The opener, on the other hand, should &quot;dance to his partner's tune&quot; because he can't match his partner's knowledge of the combined holdings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these the main instances, or are there other instances of responders' captaincies that I have missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T16:43:58.583" Title="What are bidding sequences in which the responder is likely to be the &quot;captain&quot; of the partnership?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9494" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:36:27.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In descent second edition, monsters placed as reinforcements at the &lt;strong&gt;start&lt;/strong&gt; of the turn can be activated (including using their one attack action) that turn.  This is not true for monsters placed as reinforcements at the &lt;strong&gt;end&lt;/strong&gt; of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-04-23T23:36:27.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23900" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-23T23:40:55.367" Score="1" ViewCount="1127" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I tap a land, end my turn, and then play an instant allowing me to untap it again, can I tap that land for more mana, and when does that mana get used up.&#xA;Basically, if I tap mana on my opponents turn, when does it leave the mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12459" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:55:11.247" Title="In MTG when can I tap land" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-04-24T03:49:35.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23900" CreationDate="2015-04-24T00:18:37.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I tap a land, end my turn, and then play an instant allowing me to untap it again, can I tap that land for more mana&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, the only restriction is that the land be untapped when you want to use its ability, it does not matter when you last tapped it for mana. You could even play the instant on your own turn (using the land twice in the turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when does that mana get used up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter whose turn it is, each players mana pool empties at the end of each step and phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZgKz.png&quot; alt=&quot;Magic turn order&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that brown &quot;mana pools empty&quot; throughout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically, if I tap mana on my opponents turn, when does it leave the mana pool&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't tap mana, you tap land. Mana is the result of tapping the land. The way I like to think about it is mana is something I have to spend now while lands are something I can tap whenever you need them (giving you mana of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T15:55:11.247" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T15:55:11.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23904" CreationDate="2015-04-24T03:48:28.657" Score="3" ViewCount="1696" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm getting prepared to play GoT for the first time, I just wanted to clarify this rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have 2 supply, this allows me to have one 3 army, and two 2 armies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I muster up until I'm at my supply limit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now the territory providing the supply gets taken from me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in understanding that I don't need to disband units until the next Supply card comes out in the Westeros phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:30:37.157" Title="Am I right in understanding that if my supply drops due to losing territory, this won't affect my armies until the supply card is drawn?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23903" CreationDate="2015-04-24T04:50:10.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct: The army limit is based on your position on the Supply track, but the Supply track is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; automatically adjusted during any of the game phases.  You would only adjust the Supply track (and thus your armies) when the a game effect explicitly commands it (i.e. a Supply card is drawn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page 8 of the official rules&lt;/a&gt; (second edition, but it plays the same as first edition in this case):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Though a player may gain or lose Supply icons on the game&#xA;  board throughout one or more Action Phases, &lt;strong&gt;his armies&#xA;  are reconciled only when the Supply track is adjusted&lt;/strong&gt; (via a&#xA;  “Supply” Westeros card, or other game effects).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: The rules also calls out &quot;other game effects&quot; but off-hand I have no clue what those are, or if they're second-edition-exclusive.  From first edition, I don't recall ever needing to adjust the Supply track except from a card explicitly commanding me to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Supply Example&quot; on that same page also calls this out more clearly (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lannister has recently lost control of Riverrun and&#xA;  Seagard to Greyjoy (each of which contains a single Supply&#xA;  icon). During a later Westeros Phase, a “Supply” card is&#xA;  revealed. Due to the loss of these areas, Lannister must now&#xA;  adjust his actual Supply from 5 to 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Before the “Supply” card is drawn&lt;/strong&gt;, Lannister has four armies&#xA;  of 4, 3, 2, and 2 units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note, the bolded text mentions that Lannister still had four armies &lt;em&gt;before the Supply card is drawn&lt;/em&gt; (despite the territories being lost before then, given that the Supply card was drawn during &quot;a &lt;em&gt;later&lt;/em&gt; Westeros Phase&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2015-04-24T06:09:31.420" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T06:09:31.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2015-04-24T10:42:23.340" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Infinite Reflection cannot be used on your commander because all commanders have to be legendary and if you control 2 copies of a legendary permanent you must imedatly sacrifice one before any other action could be taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your scenario every time you played a creature you would have to sacrifice it or your commander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T10:42:23.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23898" CreationDate="2015-04-24T11:39:04.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Possibly the most likely scenario for a responder to end up as a captain is when the responder does a weak take-out. i.e. Opener opens 1 of a suit, Responder says 1 of a different suit, Opener says 2 of his original suit, Responder says 2 of &lt;em&gt;his&lt;/em&gt; original suit. Opener passes because it is clear there is no good match, and knows that Responder has chosen to play in his suit because (based on his limited knowledge) he believes it will play better than Opener's original suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T11:39:04.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14804" CreationDate="2015-04-24T14:16:45.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wrote the AI engine for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bucktheodds.com/cribbage&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;BTO Cribbage&quot;&gt;BTO Cribbage&lt;/a&gt;, a mobile Cribbage app. I played Cribbage growing up and decided to write my own app after playing the other apps. I have played 10+ other apps and most of them stink and/or cheat, like described by @aramis's answer. Being on both sides (a loyal player and an APP creator), I have a different perspective and found the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Market Limitation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing that I learned after publishing my app is that &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; people don't want to lose. I released several versions of my AI, that I extensively tested against my family and friends. As the AI engine got better, my reviews on the app stores went down. Simply put, there is a market-based limit to how good an AI &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be. If people lose too much, they complain about the computer cheating. Funny thing is that I actually enjoy getting those reviews on the app store because that means I've written good code, since I know it doesn't cheat. But from a sales point of view, a really strong AI equals bad sales. People want a good AI, just not a great one. So I stopped improving once my AI was good enough. As a naive app developer, I figured weaker players would stay on the lower levels (app has 6 levels), but people insist on playing the hardest level and then complaining about it being too hard and giving me negative reviews.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Processing Power&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For app development, processing power is a big hurdle. I wrote a version of my AI that worked through all scenarios of play (traveling salesman problem), but it performed terribly on a mobile device. So, I limited my AI to only the next 2 moves, which mostly works, but can lead to some strange short-term plays that a skilled human would &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; do. As a player, if you know this weakness, it is straight forward to exploit. Thankfully, most players never figure this out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Human Element&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cribbage has an element similar to Poker, in that people play based reading their opponents. There are some obvious points in Cribbage which can be included in an AI, but creating an AI that can guess player's moves is quite challenging. I've know of several ways in which my AI engine could anticipate play, but never bothered building (market limitation). The end result is a static AI that doesn't adjust over time. So playing against a human has much different(better) feel than playing against a static AI.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6397" LastEditorUserId="6397" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T12:15:37.583" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T12:15:37.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23910" CreationDate="2015-04-24T14:22:57.400" Score="23" ViewCount="43038" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the post 2008 monopoly currency symbol called (M with two lines through it) and is there an alt-code for it? Below is an example of it from Monopoly Deal but it is also used in the regular monopoly game post-2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LL4wL.png&quot; alt=&quot;example of the symbol&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3301" LastActivityDate="2019-09-04T21:09:39.530" Title="What is the Monopoly M Symbol called?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2015-04-24T15:52:17.873" Score="20" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What is the M-symbol?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is most likely just an imaginary symbol for Monopoly money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &quot;everyday use&quot;, the closest symbol might be &quot;₩&quot; or &quot;￦&quot;, just turned upside down. This is a symbol for &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Won_sign&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Won&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, currency used in South and North Korea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How to use it?: LaTeX&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Monopoly M is not a real symbol, it does not have an alt-code. It can be still used via LaTex. Dont worry, it's not very hard. Here's an little example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yRXS5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For those who know Latex already&lt;/strong&gt;: &#xA;Use this in your preamble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;\usepackage{textcomp} % for the Won symbol &#xA;\usepackage{graphicx} % Needed for the rotation&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this to make an alias&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;\newcommand{\M}{\rotatebox[origin=c]{180}{\textwon}}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may now use &lt;code&gt;\M&lt;/code&gt; to insert the Monopoly M.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For those who are not used to Latex&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copy-paste this into blank document in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.overleaf.com&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Overleaf.com&lt;/a&gt;, and edit it for your needs (You will need to sign up, but it is free). Then download your pdf or just use Print Screen, depending on your needs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;\documentclass[a4paper,10pt]{article} &#xA;\usepackage[utf8]{inputenc}&#xA;\usepackage[english]{babel}&#xA;&#xA;\usepackage{textcomp} % for the Won symbol&#xA;\usepackage{graphicx} % Needed for the rotation&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;\begin{document} &#xA;  \newcommand{\M}{\rotatebox[origin=c]{180}{\textwon}} % make an alias '\M' for the upside-down Won.&#xA;  \Large&#xA;  \underline{\M { }stands for \M onopoly \M oney} \\[20px]&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;\large&#xA;\begin{tabular}{ll}&#xA;  Fish &amp;amp; \M 100 \\ &#xA;  Chips &amp;amp;\M 50 \\&#xA;  Fish \&amp;amp; Chips \qquad \qquad &amp;amp; \M 120\\&#xA;\end{tabular}\\[20px]&#xA;&#xA;\Large&#xA; Normal: \M \qquad Bold: \textbf{\M}&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;\end{document}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional info: Unicode &amp;amp; HTML (Won sign)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Wikipedia states, the first symbol (₩, WON SIGN) is at Unicode code point &lt;code&gt;U+20A9&lt;/code&gt;, and has HTML code &lt;code&gt;&amp;amp;#8361;&lt;/code&gt;. The second symbol  (￦, FULLWIDTH WON SIGN) is at Unicode code point  &lt;code&gt;U+FFE6&lt;/code&gt; and has HTML code &lt;code&gt;&amp;amp;#65510;&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T19:58:23.927" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T19:58:23.927" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23903" CreationDate="2015-04-24T18:30:37.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is correct, with one exception.  Normally supply does not adjust until the supply card is drawn (at which point you will have to disband if you are over your new supply limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your supply is adjusted down by a game effect, such as the 2nd edition Rattleshirt's Raiders Wildlings card that causes players to temporarily lose supply, this takes effect immediately and you may have to disband from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Lowest Bidder:&lt;/strong&gt; Is reduced 2 positions on the Supply track (to no lower than 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Everyone Else:&lt;/strong&gt; Is reduced 1 position on the Supply track (to no lower than 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Then reconcile armies to their new Supply limits.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T18:30:37.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2015-04-24T20:06:58.503" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't appear to have an official name, and the change is somewhat stealthy. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Dollar&quot;&gt;Monopoly wiki&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Dollar, also called &quot;the Monopoly Dollar&quot;, &quot;$&quot;, &quot;pound&quot;, &quot;£&quot;,&#xA;  &quot;munny&quot;, and &quot;Monopoly Money&quot;, is the main currency used in Monopoly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new symbol is mentioned in passing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In Pogo.com's World Edition, as well as the Here and Now Edition, a&#xA;  new symbol was added, a capital M with 2 horizontal lines in it. This&#xA;  seems to be the accepted symbol for Monopoly money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing the change is to standardise the money for future localised versions of the game, rather than printing e.g. either British pounds or dollars or &lt;code&gt;local_currency_x&lt;/code&gt;. The large number of synonyms for the name suggests to me that this has never been given much thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that it doesn't have a name, it doesn't have an alt-code either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2015-04-24T20:06:58.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12557" CreationDate="2015-04-25T00:50:00.443" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We bought the Journey version for our 8 year old a couple of years ago. We liked the concept of the game, but the images used in this version are dark and a bit disturbing. Almost all of them depict sad or angry characters in depressing or distressed scenes. I do not recommend this version as a family-friendly game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12467" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T00:50:00.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23915" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24063" CreationDate="2015-04-25T01:42:46.523" Score="4" ViewCount="511" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't notice anything in the rulebook about how many items can be used in each player's Hero Phase.  Is it just 1, or are multiple items allowed to be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12236" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:03:28.157" Title="Legend of Drizzt - How may items per Hero Phase?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23921" CreationDate="2015-04-25T11:15:04.173" Score="4" ViewCount="994" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our game, we ran into the &lt;strong&gt;Christmas&lt;/strong&gt; crossroads card while there was only 1 food in our supply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thumbs up:&lt;/strong&gt; Spend 5 food. Gain 1 morale. If Forest Plum is in play [snip: the survivors get an extra 4 items].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thumbs down:&lt;/strong&gt; Nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(We also had Forest Plum in play.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if we give thumbs up? We can't pay 5 food, but we can totally follow instructions to take free stuff. Would we get our stuff and lose just our 1 food, or would nothing happen because we can't do the first part? Is there a clear answer sourceable from the rules or the developers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other games have a &amp;quot;do as much as you can&amp;quot; rule, but Dead of Winter doesn't seem to employ one. The food thing isn't listed as a prerequisite to the rest of the actions taking place. I've googled around but it seems &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1231863/christmas&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;others aren't sure either&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T19:58:50.010" Title="When you don't have enough food on Christmas, what happens when you choose thumbs up?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23898" CreationDate="2015-04-25T16:22:05.277" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Opener's notrump openings, whenever Opener rebids notrump to show one of the gap-ranges in the opening notrump structure (typically after opening one of a suit or 1C/2C strong) Responder becomes Captain by virtue of a better grasp of combined partnership holdings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise if Opener makes a splinter raise of Responder's response then Responder becomes Captain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either Opener or Responder also becomes Captain by making a Blackwood or Gerber Ace-asking call, an area where beginners and intermediates often err by having the wrong hand makes this call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Responder becomes Captain, at least temporarily, by making a Fourth-Suit Forcing (FSF) call at the second round. Consequently you will see this call made by experts on a three card suit from time-to-time as a &lt;em&gt;prepared rebid&lt;/em&gt;, often revealing on the third round a hand &lt;em&gt;too strong&lt;/em&gt; for an immediate splinter raise, which would have given Captaincy to Opener without properly revealing Responder's strength).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to note that Captaincy can change during the auction, and these situations should be well discussed by any ongoing partnership as they are rife with possibilities for gross over- and under-bidding. Even in world-class play it is not unheard of to see slam played in part-score, which is a sure sign that a Captaincy change error occurred. It is &lt;strong&gt;especially&lt;/strong&gt; important to discuss how and when these occur in competitive auctions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-04-25T16:27:52.093" LastActivityDate="2015-04-25T16:27:52.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-26T00:10:53.470" Score="3" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;On the Brink&lt;/strong&gt; expansion adds the following to the base game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More event cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More roles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also adds the possibility of playing with 5 players and some extra challenges with their own set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing with 4 players, and no extra challenges, is the game strictly easier than the base game with no expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that you pick &lt;code&gt;2 x #players&lt;/code&gt; event cards, so there's 8 event cards instead of 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Event cards increase the size of the players deck, and are usually very useful. A larger players deck means more cards between &lt;strong&gt;Epidemic&lt;/strong&gt; cards and more rounds to finish the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the new roles make the game easier of harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12471" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T15:31:42.083" Title="Is the pandemic + on the brink expansion easier than the standard game? (no challenges)" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23916" CreationDate="2015-04-26T15:13:11.313" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step back from the rules and think about it for a second. You don't get to feel good about giving out food if you don't give out the food!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Do as much as you can&quot; applies to effects (benefits), not costs (requirements). &quot;Spend 5 food&quot; is really a cost here. I would not permit that option to be picked since the result would make no sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-26T22:42:25.637" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T22:42:25.637" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23920" CreationDate="2015-04-26T15:31:42.083" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a game like pandemic it is hard to say in this case if it is easier or harder by just adding in the basic parts of the On the Brink expansion. A lot of the games difficulty depends on the randomness in the game itself. Since player roles are random and with this expansion events are random the difficulty becomes even more random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general I would say that the game does become easier as there are some powerful  roles and events in the expansion. However it is possible to get a set of roles and events that do not work well together that can make the game harder. It all will come down to luck of the draw in the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-04-26T15:31:42.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23925" CreationDate="2015-04-27T06:22:16.933" Score="15" ViewCount="10687" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, both remaining players have a Baron. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sum of all cards discarded by both players is equal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6257" LastEditorUserId="6257" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T07:49:22.307" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T07:35:17.563" Title="How can we determine the winner in Love Letter if the last two players tie and have the same value of cards discarded?" Tags="|love-letter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23924" CreationDate="2015-04-27T08:31:24.797" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did not find the rules stated below from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/tempest/files/2012/09/Love_Letter_Rules_Final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;English rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (Alderac). Maybe they did not have this situation during the early test games. The Finnish/Swedish/Danish/Norwegian rulebook (Nordic version, Lautapelit.fi), has been published a bit later, and there is a solution for this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Tie-breaker for the winner of a round&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The round ends if one player cannot draw a card at his turn. Then you compare the cards in your hands. If you both have the same card you will have to calculate the sum of the cards you have discarded. The rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;whoever has the highest sum will win the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that &lt;strong&gt;if you both have the same card in your hands and the same sum, you will both win the round&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e., that round has multiple winners). This rule (that there might be multiple winners) is confirmed in the section concerning the beginning of a new round. It says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who won the last round will start the next round. &lt;strong&gt;If the&#xA;  round had multiple winners, the youngest one will start.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But what if this happens and the game ends?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might also lead into a (very rare) situation, &lt;strong&gt;when the entire game ends and two players have to equal amount of points&lt;/strong&gt;. The rulebook of the Nordic version states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player collects the required number of points/hearts, he wins&#xA;  the game and conquers the heart of the Princess. &lt;strong&gt;In the case of&#xA;  draw, the youngest player wins.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, quite thematically, the Princess prefers to fall in love with the younger guy ;) (In a real life situation, it might happen that the fate favours the one who has more digits in his bank account. But the Princess does not lack in riches so...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="23678" LastEditDate="2018-04-03T07:35:17.563" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T07:35:17.563" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4041" CreationDate="2015-04-27T15:11:21.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really like the answers from Patters and Hurley but think that the logical intersection of these two answers is not spelled out. It leads to a way I have personally kept this an inexpensive hobby, despite accumulating over 6000 cards in the past 6 months. My family has spent less than $50 on these 6000 cards if you exclude birthday and holiday gifts of fat packs or other card packages. If you include the value of gifts then it is just under $250.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As other answers have already mentioned, initial cost can be quite low if you are satisfied to buy dueling decks and nothing more, or perhaps a Core Set Deck Builders' Took Kit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answers your question literally but as Patter's answer explains, you will likely not stop there. A really large part of the fun of Magic is building new decks and then testing them out. Costs will mount if you start to build a wide variety of decks or if you choose to play in competitions. With proper planning and early decisions in the right direction, you can keep these costs low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to skip explaining Duels of the Planeswalkers and the various forms of intro decks which are explained in other answers - but do understand that to keep costs low and still get a rewarding experience, you'll need to understand the rules of the game and have a little experience. Try to get that experience before starting your buying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I recommend for those who want to keep costs low not just initially, but also on and ongoing basis, is to focus on a low cost format:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/formats/pauper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pauper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Peasant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peasant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Peasant isn't all that popular and is not the least expensive so I'll focus on Pauper. Pauper is a format that allows you to use only commons to build your decks. Any common from any set can be used except for a very small number of cards that were banned due to being so powerful that they limited diversity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four levels of rarity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Uncommons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mythic Rares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What makes MTG so expensive in the long run is rare and mythic rare cards. Some uncommons can be expensive too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commons and uncommons can be obtained very inexpensively, sometimes for as little as 1 penny per card. As I explain in much more detail in a separate question, it is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/21319/is-it-possible-to-build-a-wide-variety-of-decks-at-low-cost-if-so-how&quot;&gt;possible to build a wide variety of decks at low cost&lt;/a&gt; if you keep to commons and uncommons, strictly avoiding purchasing rare or mythic rare cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avoid rare and mythic are cards and you will keep your costs low. If you somehow obtain rare or mythic rare cards, trade them away or sell them to further reduce your net costs. The only downside to focusing on commons and uncommons is that you won't stand much of a chance going up against decks with many rares in them. So you'll end up avoiding playing such decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-03T15:02:11.587" LastActivityDate="2022-07-03T15:02:11.587" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23929" CreationDate="2015-04-27T15:33:37.020" Score="2" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the Lava special power from the Spider's Web expansion, do spaces with lava count as 'occupied' to score victory points?  Or do they just count as a 'defense' until your next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastEditorUserId="10016" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T15:53:13.930" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T15:53:13.930" Title="Small world, spider's web, when lava conquers, does it give victory points at the end?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23950" CreationDate="2015-04-27T15:52:52.497" Score="3" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was playing a lot of backgammon lately, and I noticed something. It seemed like I was &quot;going out&quot; on doubles more often than not. And my initial reaction was &quot;Shouldn't that be, at best, a 1 in 6 chance of getting doubles on that final roll?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then my math/statistics side kicked in and I realized it's probably slightly more complicated than that.  So being out of practice, I figured I'd drop this hear to get a &quot;proper&quot; answer, and correct my math :) I also wasn't sure whether I should ask here, or over in : &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions&quot;&gt;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions&lt;/a&gt;  But figured I'd start here. If it get's too &quot;mathy&quot; perhaps I'll re-ask over there :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's my thoughts so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;our end states are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;5+ checkers&#xA;4 checkers&#xA;3 checkers&#xA;2 checkers&#xA;1 checker&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with 5+ checkers left, we cannot go out, so whether we roll doubles or not is irrelevant, it will leave us with 1, 2, 3 or 4 checkers, at which point we &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; go out if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1) 4 checkers:&#xA;   a) roll doubles of a value equal to or larger than the Runner (the checker farthest in)&#xA;         (ie if we have a checker on each of 2, 3, 4 and 5 point in your home, we need to roll double 5's or double 6's to go out)&#xA;2) 3 checkers:&#xA;   a) roll doubles of a value equal to or larger than the Runner (the checker farthest in)&#xA;         (ie if we have a checker on each of 2, 3 and 4 point in your home, we need to roll double 4's, 5's or 6's to go out)&#xA;   b) roll doubles of a value equal to half or more of the Runner, and equal or larger than the other 2.&#xA;         (ie if we have a checker on each of 2, 3 and 4 point in your home, we can go out with double 3's: half of 4 is 2. next largest is 3. so double 3's puts us out)&#xA;3) 2 checkers:&#xA;   a) roll doubles of a value equal to half or more of the runner.&#xA;         (ie if we have a checker on 2 and 4 point. We can go out with double 2's)&#xA;4) 1 checker:&#xA;   a) roll doubles of a value equal to a quarter or more of the runner.&#xA;         (ie if we have a checker on the 4 point, we can go out with double 1's)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure these are all the cases .. but it's showing that there's a lot of variations .. and I'm not sure how to go about calculating all the variations accurately :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So back to my question :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to calculate the odds of going out by rolling doubles ?&#xA;(let's ignore the chance your opponent goes out first at any time ... or interferes in any way ... )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11811" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:19:19.487" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T04:07:54.467" Title="Probabilities: Backgammon - final move" Tags="|probability|backgammon|end-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23927" CreationDate="2015-04-27T15:52:59.090" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for Lava state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of your turn, for each Mountain Region you occupy, you may&#xA;  place 1 Lava Token in any Region adjacent to that Mountain Region&#xA;  (excluding Regions protected by Special and Racial Powers). All tokens&#xA;  in this Region are taken in hand by the defeated player and treated as&#xA;  if the Region were conquered (except there is no loss of tokens). The&#xA;  Region may not be entered by any other player until after the&#xA;  beginning of your next turn. At the beginning of your next turn,&#xA;  remove all Lava Tokens from the board and proceed as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Lava tokens are not conquering the regions, they are simply treating the defending tokens as if they were conquered.  Therefore you would not score points for those regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T15:52:59.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23932" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:28:56.920" Score="12" ViewCount="34100" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering, there is a card called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=True-Name%20Nemesis&quot;&gt;True-Name Nemesis&lt;/a&gt;. This card, when entering the battlefield, allows the caster to select an opponent. Once selected, True-Name Nemesis gets protection from said opponent. Just how does someone deal with one that was played by an opponent in a 1v1 match?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T21:13:16.820" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T17:12:31.577" Title="How does one defeat an enemy's True-Name Nemesis?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23930" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:42:21.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;two easy ways come to mind when dealing with heavily protected creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;global/non-targeted destruction- If the card does not say 'target' the spell does not target and can be used. Think 'wrath of gods'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;forced sacrifice - target the player and force them to sacrifice it. For example using the card 'diabolic edict'.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T17:42:21.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23930" CreationDate="2015-04-27T17:44:35.780" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protection doesn't provide perfect invulnerability against your stuff. The reminder text on the card lists specifically all of the things that you can't do. Here are some ways to deal with an opponent's True-Name Nemesis:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Decrease your opponent's creatures' toughnesses. For example, if you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElesh%20Norn%2c%20Grand%20Cenobite%5d&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn, Grand Cenobite&lt;/a&gt;, your oppenent's creatures will get -2/-2, so the True-Name Nemesis will have less than zero toughness and die due to a state based effect.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Destroy or exile all creatures. If you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWrath%20of%20God%5d&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, all creatures will be destroyed, including the True-Name Nemesis. There's nothing that say's that it can't be &lt;em&gt;destroyed&lt;/em&gt; by effects you control.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Force your opponent to sacrifice a creature. If you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConsuming%20Vapors%5d&quot;&gt;Consuming Vapors&lt;/a&gt;, they'll have to sacrifice a creature. You can force them to sacrifice the True-Name Nemesis if you get rid of their other creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prevent it from attacking. You can either make it very expensive to attack you, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=233050&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Norn's Annex&lt;/a&gt;, for example, or just prevent it entirely with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlazing%20Archon%5d&quot;&gt;Blazing Archon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Remove its protection. If you play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383351&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymorphist's Jest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Spoiling%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHumility%5d&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt;, all of your opponent's creatures will be 2/2 Frogs with no abilities, including the True-Name Nemesis. Then you can get rid of it like any other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make damage unpreventable, then deal mass damage. For example, you could play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEverlasting%20Torment%5d&quot;&gt;Everlasting Torment&lt;/a&gt;, then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAnger%20of%20the%20Gods%5d&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Outpace your opponent. If you have enough power on the field, you can either kill kill them faster than they can kill you, or force them to keep the True-Name Nemesis untapped as a blocker.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prevent it from entering the battlefield in the first place. You can counter it with any of a number of counterspells, name &quot;True-Name Nemesis&quot; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNevermore%5d&quot;&gt;Nevermore&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMeddling%20Mage%5d&quot;&gt;Meddling Mage&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoidstone%20Gargoyle%5d&quot;&gt;Voidstone Gargoyle&lt;/a&gt;, cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIona%2c%20Shield%20of%20Emeria%5d&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt; and choose &quot;blue&quot;, or just cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLlawan%2c%20Cephalid%20Empress%5d&quot;&gt;Llawan, Cephalid Empress&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Force it to block with an effect that destroys blocking creatures. For example, if you enchant an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEngulfing%20Slagwurm%5d&quot;&gt;Engulfing Slagwurm&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=438741&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt; and attack, the True-Name Nemesis will be forced to block if able, and it will be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make it deal damage to itself using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWave%20of%20Reckoning%5d&quot;&gt;Wave of Reckoning&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="21943" LastEditDate="2018-02-07T17:12:31.577" LastActivityDate="2018-02-07T17:12:31.577" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23933" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T19:24:07.613" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cribbage play, people tell me that the rule for granting an opponent one point when you say &quot;Go&quot; has been done away with in tournament play. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12481" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T20:06:42.603" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T20:06:42.603" Title="Granting 1 point to opponent after saying GO" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-04-28T13:06:47.933" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23930" CreationDate="2015-04-27T19:53:42.427" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382239&quot;&gt;Council's Judgment&lt;/a&gt; is a clean answer. It works because, rather than targeting the true-name, you chose it (this conveniently gets around shroud, hexproof, and other protection effects as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8113" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T20:01:16.893" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T20:01:16.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23943" CreationDate="2015-04-27T20:57:54.483" Score="3" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Libertalia, the last paragraph of page 9 in the rulebook states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The players then move their score token a number of spaces equal to their &lt;strong&gt;total fortune&lt;/strong&gt; (in doubloons) on the score track.  Their final score will be the &lt;strong&gt;sum of all doubloons won&lt;/strong&gt; during the three campaigns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you start each campaign with 10 doubloons, I can see this interpreted two ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total fortune method: count all doubloons at end of campaign; this is your score for that campaign&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Doubloons won method: count all doubloons then subtract the 10 starting doubloons (meaning you only score your 'winnings' or profit from the campaign)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you keep the scoring method consistent, both seem to work fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: are there any other references in the rules that would indicate one method should be used over the other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12431" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:42:29.813" Title="Scoring clarification for end of campaign/day of rest" Tags="|libertalia|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23939" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:21:31.540" Score="7" ViewCount="2007" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend just told me I'm not allowed to, when he played a spell that lets him instantly chose a blind card from my hand to graveyard it.&#xA;As I played with my decks first card open, I knew which he wanted to destroy.&#xA;I was going to shuffle my hand to make it harder for him to pick the one I drew, but he said as it is instant, so I'm not allowed to shuffle my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11676" LastEditorUserId="5238" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T14:49:20.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T02:47:02.040" Title="Am I allowed to shuffle my hand when ever I want?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23940" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:26:57.083" Score="1" ViewCount="149" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Magic, so forgive me if this is common knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the opponent's draw step happen before or after the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullcage&quot;&gt;Skullcage&lt;/a&gt; condition is checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T23:41:09.237" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T23:41:09.237" Title="When does Skullcage have its effect activated?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23937" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:32:47.777" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you are playing a game, you can reorder your hand whenever you want. Your opponent is not &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to know which card is which in your hand unless your hand is revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell allows you to make your opponent discard a card, it will either say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Player] discards a card at random from their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In which case, you &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; shuffle the hand before allowing them to chose a card from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, it will say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Look at [player]'s hand (or &quot;[Player] reveals their hand&quot;). You choose a [quality] card from it. That player discards that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, they are looking at your hand, so they will definitely be able to know what card they are choosing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T23:32:47.777" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23938" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:35:04.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skullcage triggers during your opponent's upkeep step, which is before their draw step. The order of steps in a Magic turn is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Upkeep&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Precombat Main&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Postcombat Main&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-27T23:35:04.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:35:27.907" Score="11" ViewCount="4027" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I dip below 1 life from an effect that will also heal me after the damage is dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If I bolt myself while I'm at 3 or less with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soulfire%20Grand%20Master&quot;&gt;Soulfire Grand Master&lt;/a&gt; on the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I die while at 3 or less if I -2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ajani%20Vengeant&quot;&gt;Ajani Vengeant&lt;/a&gt;, targeting myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I die if a creature with my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armadillo%20Cloak&quot;&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/a&gt; on it damages me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will I die if I target myself with enough damage to 'kill' me with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corrupt&quot;&gt;Corrupt&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so on and so forth.&#xA;You get the idea.&#xA;I'm pretty sure there's a relatively simple answer that I just don't know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12485" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-27T23:42:49.060" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T00:03:19.473" Title="Will I die if I lose enough life to kill me from an effect that also heals me?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23941" CreationDate="2015-04-27T23:40:51.353" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;: You survive if the damage and the life gain happen during the resolution of a single spell or ability. If the damage happens in one ability, and the life gain happens in a later one, you lose in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all of your situations except for the third (the one with Armadillo Cloak), you will survive. This is because in all of those cases, in every way that matters, the damage and life gain happens &lt;em&gt;at the same time&lt;/em&gt;. In the Armadillo Cloak situation, you take the damage, then Armadillo Cloak triggers, then you die before you get the life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a subtle point that is relevant here is that having 0 life does not immediately cause you to lose. The way it works is that there is something called &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot;&gt;State-based actions&lt;/a&gt;, which are checked whenever any player has priority (basically, whenever a player has an opportunity to cast spells or activate abilities). This happens all the time, but the important point for this question is that it does not happen in the middle of resolving a spell or ability. One of those State-based actions is to check each player's life total; if they are at 0 life, they lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll go through each case in more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Soulfire Grand Master&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soulfire Grand Master's relevant ability says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Instant and sorcery spells you control have lifelink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the rules for lifelink say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much life (in addition to any other results that damage causes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when your Lightning Bolt (with lifelink) resolves, it deals you 3 damage (which causes you to lose 3 life) and it also causes you to gain 3 life. When the spell resolves and state-based actions are checked, you are still at 3 life, so you survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Ajani Vengeant&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant ability here says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ajani Vengeant deals 3 damage to target creature or player and you gain 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same situation as before. When the ability resolves, it deals you 3 damage (which causes you to lose 3 life), and also causes you to gain 3 life. Again, by the time it resolves and state-based actions are checked, you have 3 life, so you survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the interesting situation because it is different from the others. Its relevant ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever enchanted creature deals damage, you gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is different because it is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;triggered ability&lt;/a&gt;. Rule 603, in part, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.1&lt;/strong&gt; Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.2&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability's trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. &lt;strong&gt;The ability doesn't do anything at this point.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that's not a card the next time a player would receive priority.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 116, &quot;Timing and Priority.&quot; The ability becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on the stack until it's countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The condition on Armadillo Cloak's ability is that the creature deals damage. The effect is that you gain that much life. So, when you get attacked by an opponent's creature enchanted with your Armadillo Cloak, it plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature deals combat damage to you. Armadillo Cloak's ability triggers (from the second rule).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions are checked. You die because you have 0 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you were still alive, Armadillo Cloak's ability would be put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you were still alive, Armadillo Cloak's ability would resolve, and you would gain the life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, you are dead well before Armadillo Cloak would be able to help you. (Note: the ordering between 2 and 3 is specified in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot;&gt;rule 704.3&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Corrupt&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corrupt's text says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Corrupt deals damage equal to the number of Swamps you control to target creature or player. You gain life equal to the damage dealt this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would survive this for the same reason you survive the first two: both the damage and the life gain happen before state-based actions are checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-28T00:03:19.473" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T00:03:19.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23936" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:20:21.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't make the distinction between doubloons won and doubloons in your possession. Whoever wrote the rules probably didn't consider that someone might take this phrase extra literally. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically it makes sense to not subtract the 10 starting doubloons because:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Like you mentioned, it doesn't matter either way and &#xA;       subtracting doubloons each time is a completely unnecessary hassle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You could end up with less doubloons than you started with. In this case you won't be able to subtract ten doubloons. Because it's possible to lose doubloons, it could be argued that any doubloons that you kept have been &lt;code&gt;won&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T14:42:29.813" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:42:29.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23937" CreationDate="2015-04-28T13:20:31.987" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The order of your hand in Magic the Gathering is never part of the game.  You are always allowed to reorder your cards in hand, and do so secretly.  You might most commonly do so before playing something like a morph card, so as to obscure which card you're playing face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case described above, if you are playing in any type of competitive setting you should never allow your opponent to select a card when discarding at random, or pic their's.  All cards should be laid out in a row, and then a die should be used to select the card.  This makes it actually random, as the card instructs, and not a game of remembering order, or hiding cards.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T13:54:40.580" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T13:54:40.580" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23937" CreationDate="2015-04-28T14:26:36.763" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just for posterity's sake, this is the relevant rule that governs this scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.5. The order of objects in a &lt;strong&gt;library&lt;/strong&gt;, in a &lt;strong&gt;graveyard&lt;/strong&gt;, or on &lt;strong&gt;the stack&lt;/strong&gt; can't be changed except when effects or rules allow it. The same is true for objects arranged in face-down piles in other zones. &lt;strong&gt;Other objects in other zones can be arranged however their owners wish&lt;/strong&gt;, although who controls those objects, whether they're tapped or flipped, and what other objects are attached to them must remain clear to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the zone in question is not the library, graveyard, or stack (which it isn't, we're talking about the hand, although there is also the battlefield and exile) then the order of objects in that zone can be arranged any which way but Sunday.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, while technically the graveyard is an ordered zone, you're allowed to fiddle with the order of the graveyard:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.magicjudges.org/en/w/MTR:3.14&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3.14 Graveyard Order&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;  In formats involving only cards from Urza’s Saga™ and later, players may change the order of their graveyard at any time. A player may not change the order of an opponent’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a select few cards actually care about the order of the graveyard, and it was decided early on (apparently, around the time of Urza's Saga) that maintaining the order of the graveyard just wasn't important enough to justify a game loss for failure to maintain board state. So in reality, the library and the stack are the only zones whose order actually matters, and let's face it - most people don't even realize the stack is a zone. I mean, we construct the stack in our head from memory of what was played and triggered when. We don't put the cards out on the table or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the good rule of thumb is, for the casual player, if it's not a library, you can probably shuffle it any time you want. Just don't be a jerk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T02:47:02.040" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T02:47:02.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1407" CreationDate="2015-04-28T19:42:02.330" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update: link for &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; 2 bonus adventures is &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151111035622/http://archive.wizards.com/DnD/Article.aspx?x=dnd/duad/20100816&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12489" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-06T15:00:26.567" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T15:00:26.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:09:29.460" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. You do not have to pay anything when landing on mortgaged properties whether you landed there or a card sent you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:09:29.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-04-28T20:52:29.360" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you have to pay.  Consider what the card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Advance token to nearest Utility. If unowned, you may buy it from the Bank. If owned, throw dice and pay owner a total ten times the amount thrown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt; to do with paying rent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you mentioned, there is another Chance card that sends you to a railroad:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Advance token to the nearest Railroad and pay owner twice &lt;em&gt;the rental to which he/she is otherwise entitled&lt;/em&gt;. If Railroad is unowned, you may buy it from the Bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card refers to the amount to which the owner is otherwise entitled, namely rent.  If the property is mortgaged, that amount is zero.  The card you're asking about makes &lt;strong&gt;no such reference&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2015-04-28T20:52:29.360" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23928" CreationDate="2015-04-28T22:39:40.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's set a lower bound on the likelihood of winning with doubles, by simply ignoring all cases where it is impossible to win without doubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumption&lt;/strong&gt;: All board positions considered are equally likely. This is probably not true, but will approach truth in longer games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the case of two men only left on the board, both in the home court, and not both on the 6-point (so that it is possible to win without doubles). There are 20 possible board positions for the two men, of weight &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; when on separate points and of weight &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; when on the same point. Likewise there are 30 possible non-double dice rolls and 6 possible double rolls. Averaged over all (the assumed equally likely) board positions under consideration, a simple counting exercise gives a probability of winning without doubles of 550 out of 1050, and a likelihood of winning with doubles of 168 / 210. (Note that the total possibilities = 1050 + 210 = 1260 = 35 * 36 as required.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are probabilities of 53.9% and 80% respectively, with a ratio of double-win to total wins of 23.4%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ignores the relatively small case-set of single blot board positions and the significantly larger case-set of board positions with 3 or 4 pieces or one or more pieces out of the home board. The net affect of these will clearly &lt;em&gt;increase&lt;/em&gt; the likelihood of winning with a double roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This analysis can be extended over the additional case-sets, but it is clear that the likelihood of winning with a double roll far exceeds the 16.7% chance of rolling doubles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;                   **Wins**       **Wght * Wins**&#xA;Wght  Position  Single  Double   Single    Double&#xA; 1      1 - 1      30      6       30         6&#xA; 2      1 - 2      30      6       60        12&#xA; 2      1 - 3      28      6       56        12&#xA; 2      1 - 4      26      5       52        10&#xA; 2      1 - 5      24      5       48        10&#xA;&#xA; 2      1 - 6      22      5       44        10 &#xA; 1      2 - 2      20      5       20         5&#xA; 2      2 - 3      20      5       40        10 &#xA; 2      2 - 4      18      5       36        10 &#xA; 2      2 - 5      16      5       32        10 &#xA;&#xA; 2      2 - 6      14      5       28        10 &#xA; 1      3 - 3      12      5       12         5&#xA; 2      3 - 4      12      5       24        10 &#xA; 2      3 - 5      10      5       20         8&#xA; 2      3 - 6       8      4       16         8&#xA;&#xA; 1      4 - 4       6      4        6         4&#xA; 2      4 - 5       6      4       12         8&#xA; 2      4 - 6       4      4        8         8&#xA; 1      5 - 5       2      4        2         4&#xA; 2      5 - 6       2      4        4         8&#xA;----------------------------------------------------------------&#xA;35                                550/1050   168/210&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T04:00:43.940" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T04:00:43.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-04-29T04:13:06.160" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to be un-mortgaged.   Otherwise I would suggest that after you buy it mortgage it right away and get 1/2 your money back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8182" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T04:13:06.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20667" CreationDate="2015-04-29T05:52:57.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Plakoto is played elsewhere - in Bulgaria, where it is called Tapa. It seems to be the same game as &quot;Jail&quot;, described here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vitalinfocenter.com/bckgmn/jail.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vitalinfocenter.com/bckgmn/jail.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12492" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T05:52:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2015-04-29T06:39:33.160" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having played quite a bit of Love Letter in all sorts of places, I can say it isn't too rough to play the game as written with up to seven people. It can be a little more chaotic and random, yes. The trick to playing with larger groups is just to manage your expectations. It's not going to be quite as tactical and tricky, but it can still be plenty of fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12493" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T06:39:33.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23957" CreationDate="2015-04-29T13:29:24.627" Score="7" ViewCount="2068" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I move an agent from Waterdeep Harbour and complete a quest which allows me to return agents to my pool, can I assign those agents again this round? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, can these agents be placed in the harbour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T15:33:34.080" Title="Returning agents to pool in in Waterdeep Harbor phase" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23956" CreationDate="2015-04-29T14:16:24.627" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can reassign the returned agents; you do so immediately before continuing with the Waterdeep Harbour phase. But no, you cannot place them in the Harbour. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Lords_of_Waterdeep_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: If I complete the &amp;quot;Recruit Lieutenant&amp;quot; quest as a result of reassigning an agent from &amp;quot;Waterdeep Harbor&amp;quot;, do I get to assign that agent immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A: Yes. If any effect puts a new agent into your pool during reassignment from &amp;quot;Waterdeep Harbor&amp;quot;, you assign that agent immediately. However, you can't assign him to &amp;quot;Waterdeep Harbor&amp;quot; (he follows the same rule as the &amp;quot;Research Chronomancy&amp;quot; quest, a returned/new agent can't be assigned to &amp;quot;Waterdeep Harbor&amp;quot; during the reassignment phase of the round).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T15:33:34.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23960" CreationDate="2015-04-29T17:43:58.760" Score="5" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can white tokens be used to pay for white mana in a convoke cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that tokens with summoning sickness can tap for convoke, but I was wondering if these tokens are considered &amp;quot;white&amp;quot;. For example, if I want to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ephemeral%20Shields&quot;&gt;Ephemeral Shields&lt;/a&gt; and I have two untapped white soldier tokens, can I tap both tokens to cover the colorless and the white in the mana cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12501" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T21:22:59.963" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:23:11.357" Title="Can white tokens be used to pay for white mana in a convoke cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23959" CreationDate="2015-04-29T17:56:36.607" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use white tokens to pay for white mana costs with Convoke. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Convoke&quot;&gt;rule for Convoke&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Convoke is a static ability that functions while the spell with convoke is on the stack. &quot;Convoke&quot; means &quot;&lt;strong&gt;For each colored mana in this spell’s total cost, you may tap &lt;em&gt;an untapped creature of that color&lt;/em&gt; you control rather than pay that mana&lt;/strong&gt;. For each generic mana in this spell’s total cost, you may tap an untapped creature you control rather than pay that mana.&quot; The convoke ability isn’t an additional or alternative cost and applies only after the total cost of the spell with convoke is determined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot;&gt;a relevant rule regarding tokens&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5b&lt;/strong&gt; The spell or ability that creates a token may define the values of any number of characteristics for the token. This becomes the token's &quot;text.&quot; &lt;strong&gt;The characteristic values defined this way are functionally equivalent to the characteristic values that are printed on a card&lt;/strong&gt;; for example, they define the token's copiable values. A token doesn't have any characteristics not defined by the spell or ability that created it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when a spell or ability creates a White Soldier creature token, it is functionally equivalent to a creature card that is White and a Soldier. This functional equivalence extends to paying for white convoke costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T17:56:36.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-04-29T18:21:31.637" Score="7" ViewCount="289" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a player that may be later for a start of a game. How can I incorporate them into a session of BSG?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see two simple ways of doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create the character at setup time  and &quot;zombiefy&quot; them until the player arrives. They exist, but don't interact at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw up the character when the player gets the.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think these both amount to the same thing (kind of like adding a character mid-season to the series). But does it cause any difficulties for game play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1388" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T19:23:22.733" Title="How do I handle a late player for Battlestar Galactica?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23959" CreationDate="2015-04-29T19:55:12.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a creature token on the battlefield is a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Creature&quot; means &quot;creature permanent&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Permanent&quot; means &quot;card or token on the battlefield&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &quot;creature&quot; refers to both creature cards on the battlefield and creature tokens on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T14:23:11.357" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T14:23:11.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23033" CreationDate="2015-04-29T21:01:51.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It largely depends on what your goals are. There's basically 4 levels of hobby involvement, and depending on which ones appeal to you, and your skills, it may affect your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Modeling for the sake of modeling&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;It's worth noting, if you just want to make something that looks cool, you can do whatever you want. I meant, if you stick Tau bits on your Tyranids it might end up looking a little silly, but if that's what you want, and you don't care about the game then go for it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friendly Games&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If you are only playing w/ close friends, you can again probably do whatever you want... especially if it's only a few people and you play regularly, it can be easy to track what counts as what. A head swap or different tail would certainly be fine here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Friendly Local Game Store&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;You are almost definitely okay here too. If your conversions and piece swaps are super crazy some folks might have a problem but depending on the store, you might be able to get away with unpainted marines with no arms attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament/Convention play&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Depending on the tournament this kind of swap is still probably fine. Most tournaments don't strictly enforce WYSIWYG unless you're doing something wacky. If your harpy is a little different chances are no one is going to care, but you could always contact the tournament organizers beforehand to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2015-04-29T21:01:51.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23969" CreationDate="2015-04-29T21:02:33.897" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a bit confused on what to do, here.  My judge specifically disallows &quot;Direct&quot; spells, and his Judgement type is &quot;Eject&quot;.  I thought that his disallowing &quot;Direct&quot; spells would just prevent us from using them, but if that's the case, he'll never Eject someone for cheating with those spells because they couldn't be cast in the first place, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/images/2013/07/CM-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 6: &quot;Special Effect: Any special effect of the judge.  Some have specific limitations for spells or unique judgements.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OK, that's fine. If we go to page 13 to the section on Judgement, it says &quot;Eject: A more severe punishment, this fighter is ejected from the round.  The fighter's card is turned over, is removed from the round, and has no impact on the result for that round.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So are the players allowed to play &quot;Direct&quot; type spells on fighters, in order to get them forcefully ejected?  Or does the judge's disallowing of those spells mean that they can't be played at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12503" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-29T21:12:40.523" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T19:59:36.543" Title="If a judge disallows &quot;Direct&quot; spells, can they still be played?" Tags="|cheaty-mages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23961" CreationDate="2015-04-30T00:47:57.397" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fundamental problem you have in adding a character mid game is that the number of loyalty cards in circulation has to change.  As to the options you proposed, having a character inactive but dealt loyalty cards is a bad idea because it throws off game balance.  For example, if there is a five player game, there are two cylons in circulation (as opposed to the one cylon in four player), making it far more likely that a cylon will be present before sleeper phase, but with one fewer human to balance that out this would severely disadvantage the humans (who already have the weaker position in the base game).  Instead, you actually do want to change the composition of the loyalty deck and deal in a new character when they get there, as long as it is before sleeper phase.  In the situations below, you construct the initial loyalty deck based on the number of players you have at the time, and will modify the deck when a new player (or possible multiple) join.  And, yes, I have actually done this in a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;After Sleeper Phase (not recommended):&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is after sleeper phase, all loyalty cards will have been dealt, making it very difficult to add a new player without incident.  If you are playing with an odd number of players to start, you can have the new player join as the sympathizer, but even this is really bad from a balance perspective as the sympathizer condition will almost certainly fall in favor of the humans late in the game.  Having the new player join as a cylon leader (see below) is the best option from a balance perspective, but probably sucks for the new player.  You should probably just finish and start another game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adding a Fifth Player:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with four players and want to add a fifth, then you are going from having one cylon and a sympathizer in circulation to two cylons and no sympathizer.  Don't shuffle the sympathizer into the loyalty deck until sleeper phase (if you already shuffled it in, you will need someone who is not in the game to remove the sympathizer from the loyalty deck, as the cards still in the loyalty deck give away hidden information about the current game).  Then, when the new player joins, put the sympathizer back in the box, shuffle one not-a-cylon card into the deck (two if the new player is Baltar or Boomer), shuffle a new cylon card into the deck, and deal the new player starting loyalty card(s).  This will make the new player more likely to be a cylon (which means the new player is suspicious, and is rather accurate in terms of the show) but is about right in terms of game balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adding a Fourth or Sixth Player:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, if you start with three or five players and want to add another, this isn't too bad.  Shuffle one not-a-cylon card into the deck (two if the new player is Baltar or Boomer), deal the new player starting loyalty card(s), and take the sympathizer out of the box, to be shuffled in to the loyalty deck during sleeper phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Adding a Cylon Leader:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another good option is to have the new player be a cylon leader (if playing with the Pegasus or Daybreak expansion), as this doesn't change the distribution of loyalty cards, other than needing to replace the sympathizer card (if relevant) with a not-a-cylon card.  The new player will be at a slight disadvantage going in, having less time to execute on their scheme, but that's what they get for showing up late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Notes for Expansions:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mutineer from Daybreak should behave the same as the sympathizer according to the instructions above, with one exception: if the new player starts as a cylon leader, do not change the composition of the loyalty deck at all (i.e. do not replace the mutineer with a not-a-cylon card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing with the conflicted loyalties variant from Exodus, you're on your own on for making an adjusted loyalty deck work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T19:23:22.733" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T19:23:22.733" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23968" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:16:44.010" Score="6" ViewCount="1757" Body="&lt;p&gt;During pregame, Anthony shuffles his own deck and then presents it to his opponent, Nathan. Is Nathan obligated to shuffle Anthony's deck? Is cutting the deck acceptable? Is doing nothing acceptable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer varies for each REL, please describe how it varies. If there are penalties associated with &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; shuffling, please describe those penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T00:55:16.340" Title="Am I required to shuffle my opponent's deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23967" CreationDate="2015-04-30T18:16:44.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Competitive and Professional REL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are always required to shuffle your opponents' decks. From Section 3.9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_27mar15_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At Competitive and Professional REL tournaments, players are required to shuffle their opponents’ decks after their owners have shuffled them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Regular REL&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are usually not obligated to shuffle your opponents' decks. However, the Head Judge may optionally require it. The very next sentence of the aforementioned section in the Tournament Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Head Judge can require this at Regular REL tournaments as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Casual (No REL)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are never obligated to shuffle your opponents' decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is cutting acceptable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not care whether or not you cut the deck. You can cut if you want, but you don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are always obligated to give your opponent the opportunity to shuffle your deck, even if they elect not to. If you are physically unable to shuffle, you can ask a judge to shuffle for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T00:55:16.340" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T00:55:16.340" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23964" CreationDate="2015-04-30T19:59:36.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based off a cursory glance through the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If a spell type is disallowed by a judge, it may not be used for its normal effect.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using your example, given that Direct spells are disallowed, you would not be able to play Direct Spells while that Judge is active. So you wouldn't be able to get a fighter ejected by playing direct-type spells on them. Similarly, if you have a judge that disallows support spells, you can't Dimension Door them away as Dimension Door is a support spell and thus disallowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card is played that is disallowed by the current judge (excluding &amp;quot;Foul Play!&amp;quot; in round 3) or was played incorrectly, it is discarded and its effect ignored (see page 16, under Disallowed Use of Cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;All spells played on a fighter contribute to their mana count.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at page 13 shows an example where the only spells cast were Enchant spells (immediately before judgement, all face-down cards played on fighters are turned face-up). The judge is Lawty, mana limit 10 and intervention of Dispel. The Orc only has a Might enchantment applied, which places his mana at 4, well below the limit. The skeleton, though, has both Might and Giant Growth, which gives him 14 mana - over the limit. So the skeleton would be dispelled due to Lawty's intervention. If Lawty's intervention type were Eject instead, the skeleton would've been ejected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T19:59:36.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23971" CreationDate="2015-04-30T21:19:06.547" Score="4" ViewCount="1378" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was playing against someone sniping my creatures. I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ward%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Ward Sliver&lt;/a&gt; and name protection from a colour. They said that because Ward Sliver says &amp;quot;as it comes into play&amp;quot; the effect is an ETB (Enters the Battlefield trigger) and can be responded to while it's on the stack, sniping Ward Sliver before it has protection. Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:42:45.053" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T22:51:13.880" Title="Can Ward Slivers protection be responded to?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23970" CreationDate="2015-04-30T21:32:53.660" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is incorrect.  The &quot;magic words&quot; for a triggered ability, which an ETB is a subset of, are &quot;When&quot;, &quot;Whenever&quot; and &quot;At.&quot;  Triggered abilities use the stack and can be responded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;As X enters play&quot; indicates what is known as a replacement effect.  It changes the standard rules for what happens when the spell resolves.  (In addition to it becoming a creature permanent as per standard rules, you also choose a color.)  Such an effect does not use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . “ are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T22:51:13.880" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T22:51:13.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23972" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23974" CreationDate="2015-04-30T22:23:32.813" Score="2" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Legendary Land&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each land is a Swamp in addition to its other land types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m15/en/248.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt; work on lands in libraries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e., does it allow me to fetch any land using a Swamp-fetcher?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:31:45.093" Title="Does &quot;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&quot; work on lands in libraries?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23972" CreationDate="2015-04-30T22:31:35.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth only affects lands on the battlefield, not in any other zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 109.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urborg affects objects with the type &quot;Land&quot;. Since it doesn't use any of the mentioned words, that means that it affects permanents of type &quot;Land&quot; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T22:31:35.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23977" CreationDate="2015-04-30T22:47:20.580" Score="-3" ViewCount="7556" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I've not been playing for years, so I'm a bit rusty.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature attacks, it is blocked, and the blocked creature gets shocked. What happens now?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the attacking creature is now blocked anyway and despite being there no blocking creatures anymore, it won't deal any damage to the attacked player.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, if for some reason the attacker gets the chance to kill the blocker &quot;somewhat before&quot; the block is &quot;finalized&quot; (not that such a concept exists), then this mean that the blockers aren't really declared yet, and the defender can still assign other creatures to block the attacking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In no (normal) occasion the attacking player gets to kill a declared blocker and still deal damage to the defending player (unless the attacking creature has trample or specific abilities).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="332" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T22:34:10.563" Title="Consequences of killing a blocking creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23976" CreationDate="2015-04-30T22:58:12.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you say is basically correct. Once a creature becomes blocked, it stays blocked, even if it no longer has any blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second point doesn't really make sense, though. There is no time at which some creatures are blocked, and the defending player can declare more blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more detail, combat proceeds like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The declare attackers step starts. The active player can declare creatures they control as attacking, as long as they follow any applicable requirements and restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The active player gains priority. Any abilities that trigger when creatures attack trigger now, and players have the opportunity to cast spells and activate abilities. It is possible for those abilities to put creatures onto the battlefield attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The declare blockers step starts. The defending player(s) can declare creatures they control as blocking, again following applicable requirements and restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The attacking player chooses the order in which their attacking creatures deal damage to blocking creatures. The defending player chooses the order in which their blocking creatures deal damage to attacking creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The active player gains priority. Any abilities that trigger when creatures block or become blocked trigger now, and players have the opportunity to cast spells and activate abilities. It is possible for those abilities to put creatures onto the battlefield blocking, but such abilities always say which creature they are blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The combat damage step starts. Each player chooses how the damage their creatures deal is distributed, with the restriction that it must deal lethal damage to each attacking/blocking creature before dealing any to the next in order (as chosen in step 4). Note that if an attacking creature does not have trample, any damage not dealt to a creature is simply not dealt. &lt;strong&gt;This has the consequence that a blocked creature without any blockers deals no damage&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-04-30T23:10:12.453" LastActivityDate="2015-04-30T23:10:12.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23970" CreationDate="2015-05-01T01:50:51.453" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend can respond to your &lt;em&gt;spell cast&lt;/em&gt; and &quot;snipe&quot; something while your Ward Sliver is still on the stack waiting to resolve.  It isn't on the battlefield (and you haven't yet named a color), so he can still target your creatures normally.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But once it's on the battlefield it's too late.  Ward Sliver's protection ability is not a triggered ability and won't go on the stack, and this means you can't respond to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T01:50:51.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18598" CreationDate="2015-05-01T06:57:51.400" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Killer draughts&quot; solves this problem. It is a variant of International Draughts. The only difference is the following: if the last captured piece is a Dame, the captor must stop at the immediate next cell after the last jumped piece. This serves to reduce the drawishness of the game, since it means that two Dames will win against a lone Dame. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mlwi.magix.net/bg/killerdraughts.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mlwi.magix.net/bg/killerdraughts.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also this link. The same rule can be implemented in Pool checkers, etc.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mlwi.magix.net/bg/checkersvariants.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://mlwi.magix.net/bg/checkersvariants.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;M. Winther&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12514" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T06:57:51.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23981" CreationDate="2015-05-01T07:59:18.097" Score="6" ViewCount="2616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently obtained the Traders and Barbarians expansion for Settlers and in the rules for each sub-expansion there was a little addendum about possible combinations with other sub expansions. But really, how many expansions could you theoretically combine without creating rule conflicts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a rule conflict would be if two expansions each use their own development cards, or if they each require specific incompatible board shapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if a third rule exists that describes how to handle these rule conflicts, then there is no conflict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T13:35:02.407" Title="What is the largest number of Settlers expansions that can be combined in one game?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23980" CreationDate="2015-05-01T13:30:29.023" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 4 official expansions; which can legally all be used at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 of them, &lt;em&gt;Seaside&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Cities &amp;amp; Knights&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&lt;/em&gt; can all be combined with any number of them being used or not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4th, &lt;em&gt;Explorers and Pirates&lt;/em&gt;, does not combine as well, because it changes things more than the others in ways that conflict with the other expansions. The rules allow you to combine it with others, but the game's publisher recommends only using it as an independent expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cities &amp;amp; Knights&lt;/em&gt; comes with its own mechanic to replace development cards, so you simply do not use the development cards from the base game. The official FAQ has clarifications on how to handle things that only come up when combining expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that both &lt;em&gt;Explorers &amp;amp; Pirates&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians&lt;/em&gt; are modular expansions, each with several different scenarios that use different mechanics. Some scenarios combine better with the other expansions than others. Catan.com lists each of the scenarios and how they work with the other expansions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/combinations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traders &amp;amp; Barbarians combinations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/catan-explorers-pirates-expansion#possible-combinations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Explorers &amp;amp; Pirates combinations&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2023-09-28T13:35:02.407" LastActivityDate="2023-09-28T13:35:02.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="23982" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-01T14:47:37.980" Score="1" ViewCount="448" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent makes me discard a card and I choose a creature card with the Bloodrush ability, can I pay the cost during the forced discard in order to activate the ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12515" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T15:19:36.177" Title="Can Bloodrush satisfy a forced discard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-05-01T17:30:06.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23982" CreationDate="2015-05-01T15:09:33.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you cannot.  The ability you are looking for is called madness.  Here are the cards that have madness:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[madness]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[madness]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T15:09:33.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23982" CreationDate="2015-05-01T15:14:58.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for two reasons.  First, you don't have priority (and thus the ability to activate bloodrush) while your opponent's discard spell is resolving.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time you could activate bloodrush is either in response to your opponent's spell or after it is done resolving (when you have priority again).  Note that discarding the card is part of the cost of activating bloodrush.  If you activate bloodrush in response to the spell you have to discard your card before your opponent's spell resolves, meaning you still have to discard another card when their spell resolves.  If you do it after their spell resolves, you still have to have the bloodrush card in your hand (because you discarded something else) in order to pay the bloodrush cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as @John said, the madness ability does what you are describing, not bloodrush.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T15:14:58.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23982" CreationDate="2015-05-01T15:19:36.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you cannot. If you activate the Bloodrush ability of a card you have to discard that card as part of paying for the ability, thus it is not a valid card to be chosen for the discard effect your opponent is using on you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how it would end up working:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent targets you with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Funeral%20Charm&quot;&gt;Funeral Charm&lt;/a&gt; choosing the discard mode.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before the Funeral Charm resolves you have a chance to cast spells or activate abilities like Bloodrush. If you do the spell or ability will go on the stack above the Funeral Charm and resolve first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't matter if you activate a Bloodrush ability, the Funeral Charm is still on the stack and will resolve after the Bloodrush ability if you activated it. While it is resolving all you can do is choose a card to discard, you cannot activate any abilities or cast any spells.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T15:19:36.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23988" CreationDate="2015-05-01T16:10:15.990" Score="7" ViewCount="2385" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a Zombie token, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viscera%20Seer&quot;&gt;Viscera Seer&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Altar%20of%20Dementia&quot;&gt;Altar of Dementia&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. Can I sacrifice the Zombie token to activate both the Altar's and Seer's abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if I have one card in hand, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Mongrel&quot;&gt;Wild Mongrel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Patrol%20Hound&quot;&gt;Patrol Hound&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield can I discard the one card to both of their abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lux%20Cannon&quot;&gt;Lux Cannon&lt;/a&gt; with 3 charge counters can I activate both of its abilities by tapping it to add a counter, and tapping it to remove 3 counters and destroy a permanent without untapping it in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T16:28:40.090" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T22:23:40.703" Title="Can I pay two different costs with the same payment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23986" CreationDate="2015-05-01T16:10:15.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to all of these questions is no. Think of it like a vending machine you can't use the same dollar to buy 2 different things that cost a dollar from the machine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.10.&lt;/strong&gt; Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically you can't sacrifice 1 creature to pay for 2 different costs, even if they both require you to sacrifice a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-01T17:35:26.267" LastActivityDate="2015-05-01T17:35:26.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23986" CreationDate="2015-05-01T17:06:31.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We might say &quot;I sacrifice this creature to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAltar%20of%20Dementia%5d&quot;&gt;Altar of Dementia&lt;/a&gt;'s ability&quot;, but that's not entirely correct. Sacrificing the creature doesn't activate the ability; sacrificing the creature is part of activating the ability. You must start to activate the ability before you pay the cost, so you must be in a position to activate the ability before you can pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;[cost]: [effect]&quot; denotes an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activating &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bViscera%20Seer%5d&quot;&gt;Viscera Seer&lt;/a&gt;'s ability requires that you sacrifice a creature as a cost. That means the first thing you do is chose to activate the ability, then you sacrifice a creature to satisfy the cost of doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you also wanted to activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAltar%20of%20Dementia%5d&quot;&gt;Altar of Dementia&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, you will need to sacrifice a second creature since the one you sacrificed to Viscera Seer no longer exists. Like costs of real life, each needs to be payed separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.10.&lt;/strong&gt; Each payment of a cost applies to only one spell, ability, or effect. For example, a player can't sacrifice just one creature to activate the activated abilities of two permanents that each require sacrificing a creature as a cost. Also, the resolution of a spell or ability doesn't pay another spell or ability's cost, even if part of its effect is doing the same thing the other cost asks for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you are free to use the either of the abilities again. Only a Planeswalker's loyalty ability can't be used more than once per turn (and those which explicitly forbid it on the card). Any other activated ability can be used as many times as you can pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;{Whenever|When|At} [condition], [effect]&quot; denotes a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Viscera Seer's and Altar of Dementia's abilities were phrased &quot;Whenever you sacrifice a creature, ...&quot;, then you would get both effects whenever you sacrifice a creature, no matter the reason it was sacrificed. You would need some external means of sacrificing a creature, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, attacking with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFallowsage%5d&quot;&gt;Fallowsage&lt;/a&gt; would give you to the option of drawing a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, tapping a land for mana while its enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bContaminated%20Ground%5d&quot;&gt;Contaminated Ground&lt;/a&gt; would cause its controller to lose two life (in addition to gaining mana). If that land was enchanted by two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bContaminated%20Ground%5d&quot;&gt;Contaminated Ground&lt;/a&gt;, its controller would lose a total of four life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T22:23:40.703" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T22:23:40.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23989" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24020" CreationDate="2015-05-02T01:58:10.493" Score="3" ViewCount="3102" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Taboo in college about 10 years ago and it enjoyed it thoroughly. I want to play it again. But looking at Amazon, I can't tell what game it is that I played. There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00D4NJSBW&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Hasbro version&lt;/a&gt;. There's &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B001RN88DK&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Parker Brothers version&lt;/a&gt;. Supposedly there's even a &quot;long out of print&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;https://ca.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20130608231108AAq6pcx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Milton Bradley version&lt;/a&gt;. And there are plenty of reviews claiming the listings are deceptive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which Taboo is the Taboo that I played? And if it's out of print, what's most similar to the version I played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5369" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:12:13.857" Title="Which version of Taboo is the official version?" Tags="|taboo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21137" CreationDate="2015-05-02T04:07:12.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note that the following assumes that all players are playing a perfect game with no mistakes. In real games every player will make occasional mistakes so take what I'm about to say with a grain of salt. For the details on optimal play check out &lt;a href=&quot;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://donsessays.freeservers.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Russia first turn restriction does nothing to change the balance of classic Axis &amp;amp; Allies. This is because Russia should never attack on the first turn. A&amp;amp;A classic offers very little margin for error in its economy. If Russia produces 9 infantry a round it will survive, if it produces 7 a round it will die. In order to keep up production Russia must conquer Norway during the second round. No other ally may take Norway; it must be Russia. It can't do this if Karelia falls. The only way to prevent Germany from taking Karelia on the very first turn is to place literally all of your defenses in Karelia except 1-3 infantry in the Caucasus (to prevent a blitz through to Russia) and 7 infantry + 1 tank in Yakutia (you can't defend the Russian Far East at first so don't try.) Attacking Manchuria on the first turn will cost you the game. You must slowly build up a large stack of infantry in the Yakut SSR to prevent Japan from breaking through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand extending the restriction to turn 2 would mean certain doom for the Allies. Yakutia must pose a second turn attack threat to Manchuria so Japan reinforces it instead of throwing everything at India. Russia must also be able to take Norway and Ukraine on turn 2 or else it won't have the money to crank out 9 infantry on turn 3. Eventually the US will take pressure off and you'll have more of a margin for error, but the first five or six turns are critical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This house rule might work in some other edition of Axis and Allies, but in Classic it would break the game. The 1-turn rule does nothing but prevent Russia from killing itself prematurely, but more than 1 turn would change the game fundamentally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A two-turn restriction would not make sense from a historical standpoint because the beginning of the game represents a moment when Russia and Germany were already at war. You'll notice that the Ukraine Soviet Socialist Republic is already occupied by German forces. In real life the USSR did not go to war with Japan until three weeks before Japan's surrender. Of course in real life Japan never posed a real threat to the USSR, and they certainly weren't capable of marching across Siberia and attacking Moscow from behind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12519" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T04:07:12.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21382" CreationDate="2015-05-02T07:46:16.823" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After throughly reading the rules there are some simple house rules I have come up with that would limit luck and increase overall game strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting Train has a movement of six spaces each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Express moves eight each turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Super Chief moves at twelve each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Optional) Maintenance fees for trains; role two dice.&#xA;Starting Train: if double 1s are rolled pay $1000. Express; if total      equals six, five, four, or three pay $2000; if total is 2 pay $1000. Super Chief: if eleven, ten, nine, eight, or seven is rolled pay $4000. Follow     above rules for lower numbers. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cost of $1000 per use of each bank owned track; if player uses two separate bank owned tracks per turn then total cost to bank is $1000. (This is used to simulate that although all companies are under one entity they are still somewhat independent and have their own corporate management to pay. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cost of $5000 per use of each separate play owned company. If player uses track from two separate companies owned by the same player in one given turn then they owe that player $10,000. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There rent fee does not increase to $10,000 per turn when all tracks are sold.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These extra rules will help to add strategy and tactical thinking to a players game. By having to carefully lay out their route to avoid mistakes and long usage of an opponent track a player will have to be careful to make smart decisions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12521" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T07:46:16.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12312" CreationDate="2015-05-02T16:48:41.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulamog%2C%20the%20Infinite%20Gyre&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre&lt;/a&gt; will destroy possibility storm, as the &amp;quot;when you cast&amp;quot; ability on Ulamog still triggers, even though Ulamog gets replaced with a different creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possibility Storm only affects cards cast from your hand, so if you have ways of casting removal spells from other zones, that will work.  If you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ray%20of%20Revelation&quot;&gt;Ray of Revelation&lt;/a&gt; in your hand, you could wait until you have 8 cards in hand and then discard it, thus enabling you to play it via flashback.  Alternatively, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nivix%2C%20Aerie%20of%20the%20Firemind&quot;&gt;Nivix, Aerie of the Firemind&lt;/a&gt; can let you play removal spells from exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Baring those specific cards in your deck, play a card with the same type as your removal (for example, if you have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disenchant&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt; in your deck, play other instants) and eventually Possibility Storm will have your spell turn into the removal spell you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T16:48:41.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="23995" CreationDate="2015-05-02T16:56:56.393" Score="5" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;When consuming 4 goods on the Pilgrimage World using the 2x VP consume action, what is the total number of points that should be received: 6 or 7?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Card:&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;Discard all remaining goods to gain that number -1 VPs&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Instructions:&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;Discard all goods (possibly after using other consume powers) to gain VP chips equal to one less than the number of goods discarded&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Consume Card:&lt;/em&gt; &amp;quot;Receive twice as many VP chips as you would have normally received in this phase&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My interpretation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Six points. Determine how many victory points that you will receive normally, and then double them. You would normally receive 3 VP, so it should now be 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;My wife's interpretation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seven points. You would normally take 4 VP, then return one. So now you should take 8 and return one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm smart enough to know that my wife's interpretation is right. But who's actually right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12522" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T17:26:52.947" Title="Pilgrimage World with Consume 2x action--how many points?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12287" CreationDate="2015-05-02T17:15:00.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing a player from the game removes their permanents along with them.  Attacking with man lands such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stirring%20Wildwood&quot;&gt;Stirring Wildwood&lt;/a&gt; or with tokens from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Decree%20of%20Justice&quot;&gt;Decree of Justice&lt;/a&gt; will either kill the player or pressure them to break standstill themselves.  Standstill decks will usually run 2/2 man lands, so having lands bigger than that (such as the 3/4 Wildwood) can win that battle (though do watch out for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland&quot;&gt;Wasteland&lt;/a&gt;; you will probably need a set of these yourself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you have an effect like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boseiju%2C%20Who%20Shelters%20All&quot;&gt;Boseiju, Who Shelters All&lt;/a&gt; (since Standstill decks are usually chalk full of counterspells), you can nullify the effects of standstill with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wit%27s%20End&quot;&gt;Wit&amp;#39;s End&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Twist&quot;&gt;Mind Twist&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T17:15:00.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23993" CreationDate="2015-05-02T17:26:52.947" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say (page 6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players who chose Consume: 2x VPs double the number of victory point&#xA;  chips — but not any other effects — that their consume powers provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The consume power on Pilgrimage World defines the number of victory points you get for consuming a number of goods.  Consuming one good is zero points, two goods is one point, three goods is two points, and so on.  Then, the Consume 2x doubles the amount provided by Pilgrimage world.  In the situation you described, the player consuming 4 goods would get 6 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-02T17:26:52.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23996" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24000" CreationDate="2015-05-03T07:08:06.277" Score="5" ViewCount="951" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Betrayal at the house on the hill, can you have more than one companion with you such as dog, girl, madman. Or do you have to discard one of the companions once you draw a second one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T10:28:09.850" Title="Can you have more than one companion?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23997" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24008" CreationDate="2015-05-03T07:10:17.907" Score="3" ViewCount="349" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules it says you can trade three 1.0 MOD for one 3.0 MOD and that the 3.0 MOD is worth 3 &lt;strong&gt;armies&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;In the rules of Invading territories you roll 1, 2 or 3 dice, and you must have atleast one more &lt;strong&gt;unit&lt;/strong&gt; than the number of dice you roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have one 1.0 MOD and one 3.0 MOD and attacks, is that 1 or 3 dice rolls?&#xA;Or are &lt;strong&gt;armies&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;units&lt;/strong&gt; different in the context?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12526" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:09:25.643" Title="Are Risk 2210 A.D 3.0 MODs considered as 1 unit or 3 units?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="700" CreationDate="2015-05-03T08:21:18.650" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;trade&quot; according to the official rules of Catan, is strictly a resource for a resource. A trade of X resource for X influence is against the rules plain and simple. Not sure why this concept is difficult understand for some people. If house rules dictate otherwise, then its whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12527" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T08:21:18.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="23999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8275" CreationDate="2015-05-03T10:22:34.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Usually when I play people want to be the traitor, but possibly that's just my friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few simple things you can do to reduce the chances of a particular player always being the traitor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play with more people. In a 3 player game you're much more likely to be the traitor than in a 6 player game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some haunts the traitor is the player with the highest or lowest value in a particular trait (e.g. highest might, lowest sanity). Some of the characters are more balanced in traits than others, so if you choose one of those characters you're less likely to be the traitor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For some haunts the traitor is the player to the left of the haunt revealer. If that player doesn't want to be the traitor then have them swap seats with someone else (not the haunt revealer though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T10:22:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23996" CreationDate="2015-05-03T10:28:09.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can have more than one companion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing in the rules says you can't, also the Dog, Girl and Madman cards say on them that they cannot be dropped, traded or stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T10:28:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24001" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T11:18:50.327" Score="2" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;when I have &quot;Mentor of the Meek&quot; and the &quot;Mutavault&quot;-land on the battlefield, and when I make Mutavault into a 2/2 creature, can I draw a card when I pay the mana cost for a creature entering the battlefield under my control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same question applies to &quot;Suture Priest&quot;. Can I gain life using Suture Priest's and Mutavault's abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks friends!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12528" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T13:03:51.173" Title="Mutavault and effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-05-03T16:20:49.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24001" CreationDate="2015-05-03T13:03:51.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Permanents that are on the battlefield, but change their types, do not trigger enter-the-battlefield or leave-the-battlefield effects. The Mutavault is changed into a creature while it is on the battlefield, so it did not enter the battlefield as a creature and cannot trigger Mentor of the Meek or Suture Priest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast has made this rule an explicit ruling for other lands that become creatures, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=177545&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Celestial Colonnade&lt;/a&gt;, but it applies identically to any permanent that is on the battlefield and then changes its type: In all such cases, it does not enter the battlefield and so no enter-the-battlefield triggers of any kind will fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-05-03T13:03:51.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24004" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:07:46.877" Score="3" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;So recently, when I was vsing a friend, they used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jeskai%20Infiltrator&quot;&gt;Jeskai Infiltrator&lt;/a&gt;, then attacked me. I took the damage without blocking, then Jeskai and the top card of their library was exiled, shuffled, and manifested because of the second ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading other posts on this site, it seems that they would keep control of the manifested cards past the end of their turn, but it was never directly stated. So I just want some clarification on the rules of this card: do they get to keep it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12529" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T22:57:43.750" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T22:57:43.750" Title="Can opponents keep Jeskai Infiltrator under their control past the end of their turn if it was manifested?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24003" CreationDate="2015-05-03T15:55:04.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they will keep control of Jeskai Infiltrator. The card was exiled and then returned to the battlefield, so it is considered by the rules a new permanent with no relation to the card that Act of Treason was used on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/strong&gt; There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(none of the exceptions apply here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that everybody will know which of the face down cards is Jeskai Infiltrator, because who is the owner of a card is always known. There is a ruling in Jeskai Infiltrator that confirms this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T18:30:01.267" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T18:30:01.267" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-03T18:07:41.973" Score="3" ViewCount="6431" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife is interested in playing Warhammer Fantasy. We've tried to work out what army she'd like to play (we went through all the pieces on the GW website,  and she picked out these ones she likes the look of), and she actually wants to make an army from multiple different armies.  A mix of wood elves,  dwarves,  dark elves.... Etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We haven't invested in the rule book yet,  nor any pieces,  but I was wondering if this was possible (in the rules, or by house rules)  before we pick it what to buy. It's likely that she'd only be playing against me,  if that makes a difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T10:08:32.073" Title="Can you mix Warhammer Fantasy armies?" Tags="|house-rules|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9656" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:05:25.777" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This might be slightly beyond the scope of what you want, but if you're looking for interesting map layouts, there are a bunch at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catanmaps.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CatanMaps.com&lt;/a&gt;.  The emphasis for their maps is more on creativity than on &quot;balanced&quot; game boards, but most of the boards I have seen there are also pretty well balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding a balanced tournament layout, they have &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catanmaps.com/tournament-board-1/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one listed&lt;/a&gt; that was used for the National Catan Championships US Qualifiers 2015 in Colombus, OH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12532" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T06:39:21.767" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T06:39:21.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24007" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24010" CreationDate="2015-05-03T19:17:02.850" Score="5" ViewCount="33447" Body="&lt;p&gt;basically my group has played through all the scenarios in the book and I was wondering if anyone knows of a place to get more map layouts?? is there like a sequel book or anything? i didn't have much luck online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastActivityDate="2020-09-28T04:59:24.603" Title="Where can I find new map ideas for Settlers of Catan Seafarers?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23997" CreationDate="2015-05-03T20:09:15.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Risk 2210 uses the same base rules as classic Risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook, page 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have a question not answered in the  RISK 2210 A.D.™ section,&#xA;  then refer to the Classic RISK® rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In classic risk, &quot;units&quot; and &quot;armies&quot; are synonymous.  The higher denomination pieces are just for player convenience.  Thus, with a 1.0-MOD and a 3.0-MOD, you would roll 3 dice on the attack, just the same as if you had four 1.0-MOD's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T15:09:25.643" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:09:25.643" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24007" CreationDate="2015-05-03T21:51:06.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There were slightly different sets of scenarios across the versions of Sefarers, but there has not been a scenario expansion book that I know of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenarios included in the 2009 edition have a variable setup options, allow them to be replayed to some degree.  Also, scenario 9: New World has players collaboratively set up a map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution we use is to build our own.  Here's how:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start by picking a map size (how many of the frame tiles to use).  Lay out water tiles within the map frame to make a number of islands.  Pick some of these to be the islands that players can start on.  Then pick a number of desert tiles and gold tiles to use.  Put the gold tiles aside as these should only go on the islands players cannot start on.  You can either put the desert tiles yourself, or shuffle them in to make it wackier.  Then, deal out tiles to the starting islands, shuffle in the gold tiles, and finish dealing tiles to the non-starting islands.  Deal out the number tokens, rearranging so no two reds are adjacent, and add harbors as you see fit.  If you end up with not enough wood or sheep production on the starting islands, you may want to redo the map, as this will make the start of the game rather slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One special point is awarded to each player when they build their first settlement on an island that isn't one of the starting islands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of points to win should be somewhere between 12 and 14, and should correlate with the number of non-desert land tiles you have in play.  Basic Catan has 17 non-desert land tiles, and is 10 points to win, but there isn't the 1 point bonus for expanding to another island.  If you are using all 27 non-desert land tiles included in seafarers and the base game, that should be to 14 points.  12 and 13 points should be somewhere in between (at about 20 tiles and 23 tiles respectively).  That said, it is okay if this is approximate; it affects all players equally.  The seafarers FAQ recommends the following different approach: &quot;You can calculate the number of victory points according to the following formula: Number of terrain hexes (not counting deserts) divided by 2.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have about even numbers of each resource tile.  If the number of tiles you want to use doesn't come out evenly,  having extra pastures (sheep) and forests (wood) are most important due to these being what is used to make boats.  After that, fields (wheat) and hills (brick) are the next ones that should be used to have extra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as which number tokens to use, this depends on what pace you want the game to have.  I prefer using all of the 6's and 8's and only ever one of the 2's and 12's, but this is really up to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also of interest, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gemkapocs.keszthelyonline.hu/letoltes/Complete_Scenario_and_Variant_Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a compilation of scenarios from numerous editions of Catan&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T05:18:20.077" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T05:18:20.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24007" CreationDate="2015-05-03T23:24:56.203" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no official &quot;sequels&quot; but there is some stuff you can find online. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catanmaps.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CatanMaps.com&lt;/a&gt; is the largest library that I've found. They have about 50 Catan maps or scenarios (mostly for Seafarers), and they add to it regularly. The collection includes info on setting up official scenarios that didn't make it into the current handbook (Greater Catan, Enchanted Land, Desert Raiders, etc) as well as fun adaptations like Middle Earth, Westeros, World Map, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The site seems to have closed but the maps are saved on their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/pg/catanmaps/photos/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Facebook page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://menzgaming.com/settlersofcatan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MenzGaming.com&lt;/a&gt; is another site with about a dozen Seafarers scenarios. I have only tried the Race to Cities of Gold one, but they all look fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12532" LastEditorUserId="12532" LastEditDate="2018-11-12T05:37:45.617" LastActivityDate="2018-11-12T05:37:45.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24016" CreationDate="2015-05-04T01:28:33.937" Score="5" ViewCount="859" Body="&lt;p&gt;In C&amp;amp;K rules, the robber cannot be moved at all until the first Barbarian Attack. When playing C&amp;amp;K combined with Seafarers, does this also apply to the pirate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would make a lot of sense to me, but I can't find anywhere that specifically spells it out either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T15:57:25.997" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T15:57:25.997" Title="When can you start using the Pirate in Catan Cities and Knights / Seafarers?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24047" CreationDate="2015-05-04T01:48:38.417" Score="16" ViewCount="10958" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 6 of the new Seafarers rulebook states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;A general note on Catan rules. This is the 5th English-language edition of Catan Seafarers. Over the years, the rules have been clarified, refined, and occasionally updated. As of January 1, 2015, all of the rules in this version of Catan take precedence over any previously-published rules.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this notice simply a formality for the 5th edition release, or is there actually something that was changed, refined, clarified? (And I ask regarding any of the expansions, not just this one.) Because I can't find what it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does anyone know if any of the default map layouts changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BfbY5.png&quot; alt=&quot;Screenshot of Seafarers Rulebook page 6&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T15:57:07.437" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T13:55:22.880" Title="What are the rules updates for Catan in the 5th edition? Are there any?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|catan-cities-and-knights|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24018" CreationDate="2015-05-04T02:03:04.390" Score="9" ViewCount="2913" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a round of Love Letter with my friends. When it came to my turn I had a Princess and King. I was forced to play the King and trade the Princess with another player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, is it legal to then announce to the other players that I had the princess, so it is known that my opponent now has that card? The announcement allows other players to potentially take advantage of this information, saving me from being a target in the next round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of my friends think this violates the spirit of the game, but we couldn't find any rules one way or another. What do you guys think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12536" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:15:03.183" Title="Is it legal to announce results of an opponent's hidden card?" Tags="|love-letter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24011" CreationDate="2015-05-04T02:19:12.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A strict reading of both the Seafarers and Cities &amp;amp; Knights rules says that the rule for waiting until the first Barbarian Attack applies &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; to the robber, and not the pirate, although there is a small ambiguity in that when you roll a 7 you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; move the pirate instead of the robber, but technically you &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; move the robber until the first attack. Additionally, there seems to be no statement about the interaction in the FAQ either under the individual expansions or the crossover between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the ambiguity, you would probably have to decide which way to play via house rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T02:19:12.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24013" CreationDate="2015-05-04T02:24:36.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it is not legal to announce what you you had to the rest of the group after you are forced into a trade with the king. If you look at the rules for the priest which lets you look at another players card it says in there that you are not allowed to show others what the card is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you discard the Priest, you can look at one other player’s hand. Do not reveal the hand to all players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rule that applies as a whole to the game where you can't reveal information about your hand or what is in other players hands as that gives players an unfair advantage if they know information that they should not have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Revealing the hand does not just mean showing the card but also discussing it as well. It is a reminder that all information in the game is supposed to be secret since there are only a total of 16 cards and 8 different cards having knowledge of one card when you should not can easily change the outcome of the game. It should be remembered that a primary part of all hidden role games is the fact that all role knowledge is hidden and not to be revealed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T12:15:03.157" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T12:15:03.157" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24011" CreationDate="2015-05-04T02:26:45.773" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules to Sefarers, page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you roll a &quot;7&quot; during your turn, you may elect to move the pirate&#xA;  INSTEAD of the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Cities and Knights rules, page 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The robber cannot be moved until after the barbarians reach the island&#xA;  of Catan for the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the robber can't be moved until the barbarians attack, neither can the pirate, as there is no robber movement to replace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T02:26:45.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24037" CreationDate="2015-05-04T03:52:27.237" Score="1" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone have any ideas? I see a bunch on the Catan shop, but only a select few are actually for sale. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/board-games/settlers-catan/variants-and-scenarios/regional-editions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/board-games/settlers-catan/variants-and-scenarios/regional-editions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried ebay, I've tried Amazon, a bunch of sites...  Any suggestions on where I would find a used &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/catan-geographies-austria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Austria&lt;/a&gt;&quot; Catan Map (&lt;em&gt;English&lt;/em&gt; edition), and the like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:17:52.770" Title="Where can I find out-of-print Catan geographies?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24013" CreationDate="2015-05-04T07:21:15.473" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because it is &lt;strong&gt;not explicitly mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/tempest/files/2012/09/Love_Letter_Rules_Final.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  what you can or cannot talk about, there are &lt;strong&gt;two interpretations&lt;/strong&gt; for this. I suggest that you agree with each other which interpretation you will follow before starting the game. (as this &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; can divide people's opinions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option 1: Do not reveal a card = do not even talk about the card&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpret the verb &quot;reveal&quot; as &quot;to make something known&quot;. Keep the hidden information hidden, and do not even talk about it. &lt;strong&gt;This is pretty simple rule, and it is the way-to-go, if any player disagrees with the other option.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it also might be hard to define that how much information someone may give on someone elses (or his own) card: Is a surprised face too much? How about saying &quot;Whoaa!&quot;? What about &quot;Whoaa! I should bow to You&quot;? Or &quot;I should bow to You, Sir/Miss&quot;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option 2: Do not reveal a card = do not show a card&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpret the verb &quot;reveal&quot; as &quot;to show&quot;. Now you can say anything about anyone's cards, but it is on the other player's decision that will they believe you or not. This gives people the opinion to bluff and make tactical moves e.g. when playing the Priest or the King.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T16:15:03.183" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:15:03.183" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24019" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24137" CreationDate="2015-05-04T13:41:13.733" Score="4" ViewCount="2549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if there is an official list of races and powers that can't be used between small world and small world underground?  So which races/powers can't be used in Underground and which can't be used in the regular game?  I know there are rules comparing land types to make most of them work, but supposedly some still do not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T13:46:36.023" Title="Is there a list of races &amp; powers that can't be used between smallworld and underground?" Tags="|small-world|small-world-underground|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23989" CreationDate="2015-05-04T14:07:00.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to BGG, the original Taboo game was released by Hasbro in 1989. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the company acquired the Parker Brothers (or the remains thereof) in 1991, which can explain why there's Parker-Brother-labeled Taboo games. Later Hasbro decided to get rid of Parker Brother mentions in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So generally speaking, there has only been one version of Taboo at all times, junior and themed versions and the like excluded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main differences over the year are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;of course up-to-date cards (asking for current events gets a bit weird, when the game you're playing is ten years old)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a playing board used to track progress&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;different versions of sound device used to signal an error (some honk-like thing vs a classic buzzer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a version called XXL with additional challenges besides the &quot;classic&quot; taboo cards, like drawing, some kind of puppet-charade and community-rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastEditorUserId="12281" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T14:12:13.857" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T14:12:13.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24021" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24026" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:03:07.133" Score="8" ViewCount="1760" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shadowfeed&quot;&gt;Shadowfeed&lt;/a&gt; card has following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exile target card from a graveyard. You gain 3 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it mean &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; graveyard, or &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; graveyard, including my opponents'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T16:05:23.763" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:05:23.763" Title="Whose graveyard is &quot;a graveyard&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:09:22.637" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card doesn't specify which graveyard, so it can be &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; graveyard. That means that you can exile any card from your graveyard, one of your opponents' graveyards, or even one of your allies' graveyards in certain kinds of multiplayer games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:09:22.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:10:38.790" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means you pick the graveyard. So, it could be your graveyard or one belonging to an opponent; i.e. any graveyard. If it were supposed to only apply to your or an opponent's graveyard, the card would say so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12408" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:10:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24025" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:15:37.503" Score="4" ViewCount="1166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Breaker%20Bay%20Grid&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Breaker Bay Grid&lt;/a&gt; in a server, along with &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Awakening%20Center&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Awakening Center&lt;/a&gt; hosting a &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Janus%201.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Janus 1.0&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Janus 1.0 count as &quot;in&quot; the server for the purposes of Breaker Bay Grid's cost reduction?  Equivalently, does Janus cost 8 credits or just 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Breaker Bay Grid has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rez cost of cards in this server is lowered by 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awakening Center has the abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Awakening Center can host bioroid ice (each piece is installed&#xA;  facedown, ignoring all install costs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever the Runner passes all of the ice protecting this server, you&#xA;  may rez a piece of ice on Awakening Center, lowering the rez cost by&#xA;  7 [credits], to force the Runner to encounter it. Trash that ice after the &#xA;  run is completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally Breaker Bay doesn't work on ICE because ICE is protecting the server rather than &quot;in&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="990" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:22:36.970" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:22:36.970" Title="Does Breaker Bay Grid reduce the cost of ICE hosted on Awakening Center" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24024" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:15:37.503" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ on Awakening Center:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ice on Awakening Center are in the server and do not count as ice&#xA;  protecting the server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the ICE on the awakening center do get the cost reduction from Breaker Bay Grid.  Janus 1.0 would only cost 3 credits to rez in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:15:37.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24021" CreationDate="2015-05-04T15:18:28.590" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your graveyard is a graveyard.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your opponent's graveyard is a graveyard.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Cards in either graveyards are cards in a graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would say &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/mma/en/219.html&quot;&gt;&quot;your graveyard&quot;&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/wwk/en/48.html&quot;&gt;&quot;an opponent's graveyard&quot;&lt;/a&gt; otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T15:23:58.377" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T15:23:58.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20569" CreationDate="2015-05-04T16:40:09.430" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is mandatory to show your card in both cases. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://bgg.geekdo.com/boardgameversion/252591/nordic-edition-2014&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nordic&lt;/a&gt; version has very clear rules for these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Baron&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Player with the smaller number in the card drops out from the round&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and (from &quot;Dropping out of the game&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player drops out of the game, he puts his card on front of him &lt;strong&gt;face up&lt;/strong&gt;..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prince&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player of your choise puts his card into his discard pile..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and (from &quot;How to play&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards in the&lt;/strong&gt; [players own] &lt;strong&gt;discard pile are kept so that even all the cards played earlier can be seen&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T16:40:09.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24028" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-04T17:07:13.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Robinson Crusoe: Adventure on the Cursed Island&lt;/strong&gt; is a boardgame designed by  &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/4735/ignacy-trzewiczek&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ignacy Trzewiczek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. The player(s) will try to survive on a deserted island and to complete different missions. Many of the days at the island are spent collecting food and wood, exploring the island, hunting, and building a shelter, roof, palisade and different items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type: Cooperative, thematic, survival&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players: 1-4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing time: 90 - 180 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/121921/robinson-crusoe-adventure-cursed-island&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG-site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-05-05T12:54:55.287" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:54:55.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24029" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-04T17:07:13.203" Score="0" Body="Robinson Crusoe: Adventure on the Cursed Island (2012) is a cooperative boardgame, where the player(s) try to survive on an island exploring it, collecting food, building shelter and accomplishing different missions. 1-4 players. 90-180 minutes." OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T18:04:27.540" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T18:04:27.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:23:38.963" Score="11" ViewCount="1279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the 1985 WEG version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/242/junta&quot;&gt;Junta&lt;/a&gt; (that I rescued from a second-hand store years ago), and while it's a favorite of mine, I'll easily admit that it's not the clearest game for explanations or text on cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/junta&quot;&gt;Alderac is printing a new edition&lt;/a&gt; - is it just a cleanup, or are there mechanical differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="916" LastEditDate="2015-05-04T19:23:06.993" LastActivityDate="2021-06-08T18:58:58.423" Title="What has changed in the new edition of Junta?" Tags="|junta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12669" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:37:37.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, there are two functional differences from cascade exiling cards instead of merely revealing them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It lets you cast cascaded spells from exile rather than your library, circumventing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrafdigger%27s%5d%2b%5bCage%5d&quot;&gt;Grafdigger&amp;#39;s Cage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The exiled cards are not considered if the abilities of cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSelvala%2c%20Explorer%20Returned%5d&quot;&gt;Selvala, Explorer Returned&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharmed%20Pendant%5d&quot;&gt;Charmed Pendant&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMillikin%5d&quot;&gt;Millikin&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDeranged%20Assistant%5d&quot;&gt;Deranged Assistant&lt;/a&gt; are used to pay for an additional cost on the cascaded spell.  These abilities are rare in that they are mana abilities (and so can be used during the resolution of another ability) that interact with the top card of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seem to be several types of effects that are looking for a top card of your library that meets some criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpellshift%5d&quot;&gt;Spellshift&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bReweave%5d&quot;&gt;Reweave&lt;/a&gt; have you do this by revealing the top cards of your library, but then have you shuffle your whole library afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExplosive%20Revelation%5d&quot;&gt;Explosive Revelation&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAbundance%5d&quot;&gt;Abundance&lt;/a&gt; have you put the cards on the bottom of your library in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find one example, namely &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJalira%2c%20Master%20Polymorphist%5d&quot;&gt;Jalira, Master Polymorphist&lt;/a&gt;, that has you reveal cards off the top and put the revealed cards on the bottom in a random order.  There are also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHeroes%27%5d%2b%5bPodium%5d&quot;&gt;Heroes&amp;#39; Podium&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAladdin%27s%5d%2b%5bLamp%5d&quot;&gt;Aladdin&amp;#39;s Lamp&lt;/a&gt;, that put unrevealed cards on the bottom of your library in a random order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other cards that uses exile instead of reveal are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPossibility%20Storm%5d&quot;&gt;Possibility Storm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUndying%20Flames%5d&quot;&gt;Undying Flames&lt;/a&gt;; Possibility Storm works the same as cascade and Undying Flames leaves the cards in exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, Ripple seems to be a similar ability to cascade, but uses reveal instead of exile and doesn't shuffle the cards before they go on the bottom of your library:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell, you may reveal the top four cards of your&#xA;  library. You may cast any revealed cards with the same name as the&#xA;  spell without paying their mana costs. Put the rest on the bottom of&#xA;  your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as far as I can tell from this, the cards are exiled because you are casting one of them, shuffling the rest, and then putting them on the bottom of your library.  Given that there are potentially a lot of things that happen when you cast a card (such as choosing targets, paying additional costs, etc), having the cards in a dedicated area before they are randomized seems like a reasonable idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most comparable card is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPossibility%20Storm%5d&quot;&gt;Possibility Storm&lt;/a&gt;, which uses the same procedure as cascade.  None of the other cards that have you shuffle cards from the top of your library before putting them on the bottom of your library have you cast anything (see: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22random+order%22+-o%3Acascade&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22random+order%22+-o%3Acascade&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why this procedure isn't used for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpellshift%5d&quot;&gt;Spellshift&lt;/a&gt; and ripple is anyone's guess.  My speculation is that Wizards was hesitant to have abilities that shuffled a set of library cards independent of the library, given that only &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAladdin%27s%5d%2b%5bLamp%5d&quot;&gt;Aladdin&amp;#39;s Lamp&lt;/a&gt; (excusable as an ancient card) did this until 2014 (when they printed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHeroes%27%5d%2b%5bPodium%5d&quot;&gt;Heroes&amp;#39; Podium&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: The answer by sitnaltax (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12671/9999&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12671/9999&lt;/a&gt;) is factually incorrect.  If you cascade into another spell with cascade, the second cascade trigger does not resolve until the first cascade trigger is finished resolving (namely the cards exiled are put on the bottom of your library).  This is because cascade is a triggered ability.  The relevant rules are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2. Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability's trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The&#xA;  ability doesn't do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3. Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that's not a card the next time a player would&#xA;  receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No player gets priority until the first cascade trigger is done resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-05-04T19:19:08.080" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24579" CreationDate="2015-05-04T18:50:28.717" Score="2" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with the Moloch army, would it ever be advantageous to use the medic tile on another medic tile when playing the game?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12541" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T07:10:53.790" Title="Neuroshima Hex - Medics" Tags="|neuroshima-hex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14908" CreationDate="2015-05-04T21:36:29.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only cast instants and cards with flash on opponent's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/20862/9999&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; has a chart showing when you can play various card types through the parts of the turn cycle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://twentysevenletterdomainname.com/magic_turn_structure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ftf0A.png&quot; alt=&quot;turn diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note flash means the card follows the timing rules for instants:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.8a Flash is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on. &quot;Flash&quot; means &quot;You may play this card&#xA;  any time you could cast an instant.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are facing control heavy decks, try either lands that have other abilities such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt; or uncounterable cards, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDragonlord%20Dromoka%5d&quot;&gt;Dragonlord Dromoka&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGreat%20Sable%20Stag%5d&quot;&gt;Great Sable Stag&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T01:45:44.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24036" CreationDate="2015-05-05T10:01:51.000" Score="2" ViewCount="1931" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game include cards that double the production of resources in the neighbouring regions (Iron Foundry, Grain Mill, Brick Factory, Lumber Camp, Weaver's Shop).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the bonus apply every time we get a resource, or is it only limited to the production die rolls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if I have a Lumber Camp next to a forest, and I trade 3 ores for lumber, do I get 1 or 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I steal 1 lumber from my opponent (through Trade event, for example), do I get 1 or 2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10142" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T10:18:58.023" Title="Are production boosters limited to production dice rolls?" Tags="|rivals-for-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24035" CreationDate="2015-05-05T10:18:58.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did some Googling and I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faqs/104?page=8&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an exhaustive FAQ on the Catan website&lt;/a&gt;. Here's the answer to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Production boosters - Do production boosters have an effect when events occur and actions are performed, e.g., when I may choose any 1 resource or take 1 resource from my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10142" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T10:18:58.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24017" CreationDate="2015-05-05T12:17:52.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the Mayfair (English) version is out of print, you'll have to rely on communities like boardgamegeek. Today, they have &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/geekmarket/product/629275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;just one English version&lt;/a&gt; (new condition) but it only ships to the US.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The German version is on stock at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catanshop.de/spiele-und-erweiterungen/die-siedler-von-osterreich.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catanshop.de&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T12:17:52.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7011" CreationDate="2015-05-05T13:07:52.943" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, if you're playing the Saboteur base game with a group of experienced players, the saboteurs have a better chance of winning than the gold diggers. During the first few (5-10 maybe) games, most gold diggers will get plenty of satisfaction from a 'team win'. If there are 5 diggers and 2 saboteurs, and this results in a 5 vs 2 play stile, the digger 'team' will win every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in Saboteur, there is an 'I' in team. After a few team wins, some diggers will want to be the #1 digger, getting the first pick. When this starts to happen, suddenly it's not 5 vs 2, but &lt;code&gt;1 vs 1 vs 1 vs 1 vs 1 vs 2&lt;/code&gt;, and even worse it will be more difficult to tell saboteurs from diggers. Diggers will create detours, cut off personally infavorable routes, and break tools of players (even known diggers) on their right hand side. That's when the saboteurs start to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you go one step further, you'll start keeping track of the amount of gold people collected in previous games (at least for as far as you can tell). If you're ahead as a digger, it can be worth getting second or third pick. If someone else is ahead, you can sabotage them regardless of their role. That's about when the playing field evens out between diggers and saboteurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T13:07:52.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23687" CreationDate="2015-05-05T15:22:42.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It really depends on the format, your deck, and the current meta.&#xA;It also depends on why you're mulliganing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need to mulligan due to land percentage (too many/few), you need to fix your deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need to mulligan because you have no creatures, it might be an issue, but that depends on how much you need them [Which in turn depends on what kind of deck your opponent is running]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you need to mulligan because you don't have a certain card in hand... How important is that card?  [It's probably OK to mulligan for a one-drop Enchantment* or a Layline (Which aren't pauper-legal), as long as it's worth losing the Card Advantage]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best way to test it is to just build the deck, and see what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I have one Modern deck that sometimes has to mulligan down to three or two cards in hand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As long as I'm not up against an aggro deck, I can still win with an opening hand of [Island, Quest for Ula's Temple].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12444" LastActivityDate="2015-05-05T15:22:42.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-05T19:24:41.207" Score="4" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing the North American 1993 version of secret mission Risk, can a mission be acomplished with a fortifying move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:If your mission is, “Conquer 18 TERRITORIES with at least 2 SOLDIERS on each”, can you end your turn already occupying 17 territories with at least 2 soldiers on each &amp;amp; 1 territory with just 1 soldier on it &amp;amp; fortify that last territory requiring the second soldier thus, now that 18 territories have at least 2 soldiers on them, reveal your mission &amp;amp; win the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T10:15:22.010" Title="Fortifying move to complete a Risk mission" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3514" CreationDate="2015-05-05T20:02:32.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is an incredibly simple way to figure this out without graphs or calculators.&#xA;Simply count one of your soldiers defeated for every other soldier you intend to defeat &amp;amp; one of your soldiers left behind for every territory your conquer.&#xA;Example: If you wish to eliminate another player that has 12 soldiers spread over 5 connected territories &amp;amp; that player is right beside the territory that you will place your soldiers on, you will need 12+5=17 soldiers in addition to the one that must stay behind from the original attacking territory.  If there are other soldiers or territories in the way of your intended goal then, after figuring out the least expensive route, simply count one of your soldiers defeated for every other soldier you intend to defeat &amp;amp; one of your soldiers left behind for every territory your conquer.  This method slightly favours the attacker in big numbers &amp;amp; slightly favours the defenders in small numbers which brings me to my next point.  From time to time you will have to split your forces in different directions in the path you have chosen to pursue.  This event that I call a fork will force some of your soldiers to stop being able to attack usefully.  For every dead end fork add 2 soldiers as they will be required to ensure you can always roll 3 dice right to the end of each fork.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="12113" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T06:20:24.520" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T06:20:24.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="247" CreationDate="2015-05-05T20:21:29.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoyed reading the answers to this quintessential question that defines the game of Risk. I find Risk to be a game of balance of power &amp;amp; playing your position is important.  What you do when you are the dominating player is different than when you are the mid-player or the week player.  When playing on line in real time you must also consider who are the reliable players in relation to connectivity as to who will drop next.  In addition to the other answers posted here I would add the isolating method.  If your opponent controls Australia or South America early on, you choose as position on the map far from theses continents &amp;amp; eliminate all soldiers of that player that are near yours thus forcing the incremental strength of that player to attack your opponents as opposed to you.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="12113" LastEditDate="2018-10-03T18:14:30.657" LastActivityDate="2018-10-03T18:14:30.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24044" CreationDate="2015-05-06T00:46:50.063" Score="4" ViewCount="1268" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder%20Investigation&quot;&gt;Murder Investigation&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When enchanted creature dies, put X 1/1 white Soldier creature tokens onto the battlefield, where X is its power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flowstone%20Slide&quot;&gt;Flowstone Slide&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All creatures get +X/-X until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I enchant my 1/1 white Soldier creature token with Murder Investigation and then cast Flowstone Slide with X = 3.  The poor token dies for sure, but would I get 4 white Soldier creature tokens because he was a 4/-2 at the time he was destroyed, or would I get 1 white Soldier creature token because that is the &lt;em&gt;power of the enchanted creature as it last existed on the battlefield&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastEditorUserId="12554" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T00:55:48.790" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T01:07:46.343" Title="What happens if I kill a creature enchanted with Murder Investigation by casting Flowstone Slide" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24043" CreationDate="2015-05-06T00:57:06.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll get 4 tokens, because that's the power of the enchanted creature as it last existed on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't die &lt;em&gt;quite&lt;/em&gt; immediately upon having negative toughness; it exists on the battlefield for just a moment until state-based actions are checked. The overly detailed sequence of events is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Flowstone Slide resolves, making it a 4/-2 creature, still on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As soon as it finishes resolving, state-based actions are checked, and since its toughness is 0 or less, it's put into its owner's graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The token has now died, so Murder Investigation's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions keep being checked; Murder Investigation is put into your graveyard and the token ceases to exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Murder Investigation's triggered ability resolves. Since the object it refers to (&quot;enchanted creature&quot;) is no longer on the battlefield, it uses last known information to check its power - and the last known power of the creature was 4, so X is 4 and you get 4 tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T00:57:06.080" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24043" CreationDate="2015-05-06T00:59:16.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get 4 Soldier tokens, because the creature had power 4 when it was last on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the exact sequence of events when the Flowstone Slide resolves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your soldier gets +3/-3 until end of turn, so it is a 4/-2 creature until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;State Based Actions&lt;/a&gt; are checked. By rule 704.5f, the Soldier dies. Murder Investigation's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;triggered ability&lt;/a&gt; triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State Based Actions are checked again (as detailed in 704.3). Murder Investigations is put in the graveyard by 704.5n.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State Based Actions are checked &lt;em&gt;again&lt;/em&gt;. Nothing happens this time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Murder Investigation's ability is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Murder Investigation's ability resolves. Since the soldier is no longer on the battlefield, the ability uses the last known information of the creature. The creature had power 4 when it died, so you get 4 1/1 white Soldier creature tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important point to note here is that the Soldier token becomes a 4/-2 creature, then the spell finishes resolving, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; the Soldier dies. So, there was a time when it was on the battlefield as a 4/-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 608.2g&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only once, when the effect is applied&lt;/strong&gt;. If the effect requires information from a specific object, including the source of the ability itself or a target that's become illegal, the effect uses the current information of that object if it's in the public zone it was expected to be in; &lt;strong&gt;if it's no longer in that zone, or if the effect has moved it from a public zone to a hidden zone, the effect uses the object's last known information&lt;/strong&gt;. See rule 112.7a. If an ability states that an object does something, it's the object as it exists—or as it most recently existed—that does it, not the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T01:07:46.343" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T01:07:46.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24012" CreationDate="2015-05-06T05:49:37.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Changes to the base game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest change in the base game is that the name has switched from &quot;Settlers of Catan&quot; to just &quot;Catan&quot;.  They've also updated the art (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamenguide.com/articles/20394/20150211/international-toy-fair-2015-news-updated-version-of-catan-demoed-at-mayfair-booth-this-weekend.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;citation&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Changes to seafarers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the scenario maps are different.  It seems they used the maps from the 2008 German printing of seafarers when making 5th edition.  The big change is that there are now separate maps for 3 players vs 4 players on the first four scenarios.  Additionally, the layouts of &quot;The Fog Islands&quot; has been completely changed.  For a look at historical Catan scenarios, see &lt;a href=&quot;http://gemkapocs.keszthelyonline.hu/letoltes/Complete_Scenario_and_Variant_Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this compilation&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prior to fifth edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between third and fourth edition of base Catan, they added a rule allowing you to move the robber to the desert, and renamed the &quot;Soldier&quot; card to a &quot;Knight&quot;, presumably for terminology consistency with Cities and Knights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between third and fourth edition of Seafarers, they changed the game border from rectangular to hexagonal, meaning all of the scenario maps got changed then as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1650/what-are-the-differences-between-the-four-editions-of-the-settlers-of-catan-base&quot;&gt;What are the differences between the four editions of The Settlers of Catan base game?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T06:00:34.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22549" CreationDate="2015-05-06T06:50:29.283" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are lot of &lt;a href=&quot;http://kmccardsleeve.com.au/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;card sleeves&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; in market, but the best one is KMC card sleeves and according it provides great longevity and ultimate protection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12556" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T06:50:29.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="961" CreationDate="2015-05-06T07:26:33.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted 25+ bullets on Brass strategy &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/494294/25-tips-after-50-plays&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The Cliff's Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build only 1-2 level-1 industries. Develop early and often. Do not build the L1 Shipyard or L1 Port, period.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build as few canal links as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Location cards are more important than Industry cards in the Canal Phase; the opposite is true in the Rail Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If stuck at end of Canal Phase, build Coal Mines and take loans, the Coal mines will flip at the start of the Rail Phase, taking you out of the hole.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build Rail Links early and often for maximum points and to expand your personal network.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Avoid building Coal Mines during the Rail Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal the Shipyards if in position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Overbuild your nearest rival's Iron Works&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be careful if you don't sell Cotton immediately after building; ensure the others can't empty out the Distant Market + Ports before your next turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to hang out in Seat 4 most of the time (if you're spending the most money, you're probably getting the most points), then string together 4 consecutive actions before a key rival can take another turn at a crucial juncture.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T07:26:33.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24040" CreationDate="2015-05-06T10:15:22.010" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  You can even win during your opponents turn when they complete your missions for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you control 18 territories?  Do they have at least 2 armies on them?  If yes to both, you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T10:15:22.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24052" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:49:44.750" Score="4" ViewCount="1294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Sanctity&quot;&gt;Leyline of Sanctity&lt;/a&gt; and noticed that it gives its controller hexproof. I understand that this means that I can't use any spells or abilities that target the player, but what about &amp;quot;side effects&amp;quot; that target another permanent, and then result in damage or an effect on the player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Draconic%20Roar&quot;&gt;Draconic Roar&lt;/a&gt; and reveal a dragon, will the 3 damage fizzle or will it get through since the player isn't the primary target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12237" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T16:33:25.417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T17:01:00.097" Title="How do &quot;side effects&quot; interact with a card that grants hexproof?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24051" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:58:15.233" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hexproof only prevents targeting. Any effects that affect the player without targeting (e.g. &quot;Deal 2 damage to each opponent&quot;) still work. Draconic Roar doesn't target your opponent, so his hexproof has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:58:15.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24051" CreationDate="2015-05-06T15:59:34.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hexproof is very simple: if a spell or ability uses the word &quot;target&quot;, that target can't legally be that player. It doesn't affect damage, or life loss, or anything else once the spell is resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the specific case of Draconic Roar, the only target you choose is a creature, so it is legal to cast and it resolves. The Leyline can't affect what happens once the spell starts resolving, so the damage is dealt to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T15:59:34.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24051" CreationDate="2015-05-06T17:01:00.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While both answers answer the specific case, would like to explain a bit more broadly, since the question is a lot more broadly worded than the specific instance. Since the player has hexproof, but the card Draconic Roar does not say 'target player', all effects of the spell will occur. However, a very similar card, Searing Blaze instead reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Searing Blaze deals 1 damage to target player and 1 damage to target creature that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this instance, if your opponent had Leyline of Sanctity out, you would not be able to cast Searing Blaze targeting your opponent's creature, because in order to cast a card, you have to have a valid target for each instance of target of the card, and you can't target your opponent. If you have a creature though, you could still cast it targeting yourself and your creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a bit more niche of an instance that still is relevant to the general question at hand: lets say your opponent has Leyline of Anticipation out, as well as a creature. You cast Searing Blaze targeting them and their creature. In response, they cast Leyline of Sanctity, giving themselves hexproof when it resolves. Searing Blaze will still resolve and deal 1 damage to their creature (or 3, if Landfall is in effect), but won't deal any damage to them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7128" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T17:01:00.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24056" CreationDate="2015-05-06T17:05:21.223" Score="8" ViewCount="1860" Body="&lt;p&gt;So here's where my question stems from: In the Pirate Islands scenario, each player starts with 3 settlements on the Eastern Island. A player only wins if:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) he has captured the Pirate fortress of his color, AND&#xA;b) reaches 10 victory points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no special victory points in this scenario besides basic expansion (no Longest Road, no Largest Army, and no VP cards from the Development stack since they are used as Knight cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the confined locations of the map, it would appear that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;if you never are able to expand beyond your initial three placement on the eastern island, it will be impossible for you to win.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;  Thus, the game could be over for someone before it even begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VtSc7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in the attached image which simplifies the situation, let's say I'm White. I have been boxed in on the Eastern Island. I have built my maximum 4 Cities, as well as 1 settlement. These 5 locations are the only eligible spots for me to build. There is no way to get extra victory points, thus I will forever be stuck at 9 VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our solution when we've played is that a player &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; allowed to build roads on the Pirate Fortress island to expand to an additional settlement (marked by the pink outlined question marks on the map)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dhRp3.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A9aoO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player is only allowed to build ONE shipping route, directly between his initial coastal settlement, and the corresponding pirate fortress. Note that it only says the &lt;em&gt;shipping route&lt;/em&gt; may not be extended beyond the Pirate Fortress, not trade route. It doesn't say anything about building roads on the Pirate Fortress island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the second screenshot, it could be interpreted that the rules about additional settlements are only referring to the &lt;strong&gt;midway&lt;/strong&gt; pirate island (i.e. I can't build another settlement on the &quot;8 ore&quot; tile)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something? Has anyone else encountered this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not allowed to build additional settlements beyond the Pirate Fortress, I would call this scenario flawed. Any scenario where a player can lose before the first roll of the dice needs to be fixed, in my opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12532" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T15:53:31.467" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T15:53:31.467" Title="Is it possible for a person to lose &quot;Pirate Islands&quot; Seafarers scenario before the game even starts?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24055" CreationDate="2015-05-06T17:57:04.427" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a problem with this scenario in its current form. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/366181/pirate-islands-scenario&quot;&gt;Sebastian Rapp&lt;/a&gt;, Catan's Product Manager, suggests lowering the points required to 8 since the point of this scenario is more to build ships and defeat pirates that to develop the starting island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your idea of being able to build on the pirate islands is another fix, possibly with the stipulation that you can only build an additional settlement on the pirate islands if it is a position that doesn't produce any resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T17:57:04.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22579" CreationDate="2015-05-06T19:37:49.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering the questions in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can you pick up cards from your villages during your turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. when a card is played to a village, it remains with that village until either it is destroyed, it is kidnapped, or all units of that village are destroyed. The singular exception (that I am aware of) is a guest unit in an Inn - by the Inn's effect, that guest unit may return to your hand at the start of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[edit: The &quot;Distant Lands&quot; expansion adds a second building card that allows two additional guest units (one of each color adjacent to the village's color) to be in the village, and like the Inn, they may return to your hand at the start of your turn.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Can multicolor/light units switch which village they are in if possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in the previous question, the only unit that could &quot;switch villages&quot; is a guest unit residing in an Inn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if there is a village made of light units, what color is that village?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A village's color does not change, even if the only remaining units are multicolor or light units. The rules do not specify whether or not a red village with only Light units remaining is considered destroyed or not, only that there is no such thing as a &quot;Light village&quot; (that is, when the village is created, there must be at least one non-light unit in it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="7325" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T20:25:00.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T20:25:00.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24059" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:14:06.380" Score="4" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers to this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9656/where-can-i-find-good-tile-layouts-for-settlers-of-catan?newreg=5ce3c03e610e4998bc0153321449183c&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; about tile layouts for Catan suggests &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bettersettlers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Better Settlers&lt;/a&gt;. When I open Better Settlers, the page shows a board setup for Catan. What do the colors in the setup stand for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maroon/dark red: brick  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dark green: wood  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light green: wheat  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yellow: sheep  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;grey: ore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12561" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T00:21:19.900" Title="What do the colors mean on Better Settlers?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24058" CreationDate="2015-05-06T20:24:25.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The colors surely match the colors of the resource cards and the actual hexes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;maroon - brick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dark green - wood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;light green - sheep&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;yellow - wheat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;gray - ore&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the blank orange hex would be the desert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0CPJam.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;resource cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E8zYfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;hexes&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(clockwise from bottom left, that's sheep, wheat, ore, brick, and wood;  the center is desert, and there's an extra wood cut off on the bottom)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-05-06T20:29:51.780" LastActivityDate="2015-05-06T20:29:51.780" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24060" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24512" CreationDate="2015-05-07T01:32:10.293" Score="1" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to Cardfight!! Vanguard, and I was wondering if legions be broken or become un-legioned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12574" OwnerDisplayName="Bosspvz2" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T16:33:05.567" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T10:17:48.333" Title="Can legions in Cardfight!! Vanguard be broken/un-legioned?" Tags="|cardfight-vanguard|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24065" CreationDate="2015-05-07T02:35:38.817" Score="1" ViewCount="1202" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bettersettlers.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Better Settlers'&lt;/a&gt; setup, I can trade with bank at 3:1 or 2:1 ratio if I have a settlement or city on specific harbors. But the location of the harbors (3:1 and 2:1 ratios shown) doesn't match with the game that I have. In my game, these ratios are printed on outside long pieces. I also went to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Catan site&lt;/a&gt; and compared pictures in the rule book with one from Better Settlers' site, and the pictures don't match :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does Better Settlers site show custom 3:1 and 2:1 placements?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12561" LastEditorUserId="1246" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T13:57:10.240" LastActivityDate="2019-03-01T07:00:02.493" Title="Why are the port arrangements in Better Settlers not like the arrangements in my game?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9576" CreationDate="2015-05-07T08:21:03.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tolarian academy, Yawgmoths Will, Windfall, Fluctuator, Time Spiral, Sneak Attack, Show and Tell, and Gaeas Cradle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I remember having a fluctuator deck that could win turn one. Fluctuator was banned right from the start however.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All those cards needed to be banned or restricted due to how fast you could win. Sneak attack and Cradle werent banned or restricted but both were clearly staples and very good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to mention cards like Morphling, who might not seem great now. But back then, he was about the best creature you could cast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thats just Urzas Saga. And there are many more cards im not mentioning that had a huge impact on all formats like Voltaic Key and Stroke of Genius.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urzas Legacy was a great set to draft with and had great cards for its time. But overall that set was the weakest of the 3 in the block. Rancor, Tinker, Grim Monolith, Deranged Hermit, memory jar, Palinchron, and Treetop Village/Faerie Conclave. As you can see this list isnt quite on par with Saga.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Urzas Destiny was another one that over time doesnt seem like a great set. But it was BROKEN in its day. Masticore, Opalescence, Replenish, Yavimaya Hollow (was a crap rare back then basically), Academy Rector, Opposition, Treachery, Yawgmoths bargain, covetous dragon,Elivhs Piper, Pattern of Rebirth, Rofellos, and Plow Under.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was the perfect cherry on top of the SICKEST block ever made. The constructed formats for standard and block were my favorite...still to this day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people get nostalgic about the Urza block its for a good reason! It was the BEST BLOCK OF ALL TIME. And its not even close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12565" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T08:21:03.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23915" CreationDate="2015-05-07T09:03:28.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use as many items as you like, as long as you follow the rules on the card. For example, if you have two &lt;em&gt;Potion of Healing&lt;/em&gt;s you can use them both during your Hero Phase, but not during another player's turn. You may use a &lt;em&gt;Heavy Cloak&lt;/em&gt; on the Villain Phase during your turn, or another player's turn. A &lt;em&gt;Flask of Oil&lt;/em&gt; is used instead of attacking, so you can only use one on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/LoD_Rulebook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can benefit from multiple Treasure cards in play that apply&#xA;  to your Hero. For example, you can use both a Fortune and an&#xA;  Item to increase the bonus to an attack roll. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Multiple Treasure cards&quot; includes using multiple Items (subject to the rules listed on them). However,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only exception to this rule applies to Items that provide&#xA;  attack or defense bonuses. A Hero can gain only one attack&#xA;  bonus and one defense bonus from Items at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This exception means that you cannot use two &lt;a href=&quot;http://ddadventuresystem.wikia.com/wiki/Belt_of_Storm_Giant_Strength&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Belt of Storm Giant Strength&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;s at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:03:28.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24061" CreationDate="2015-05-07T09:37:55.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Jefromi is correct, there are card pieces that you can use to cover over the ports printed on the sea frame. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/image/2360057/catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this image&lt;/a&gt; you can see the port pieces covering the printed ones. They are used to randomise the ports, in a similar way to randomising the tiles. Note that they only change what type of port it is, and not its location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Seafarers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; also comes with additional port pieces, but they are used in a different way specific to that expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your comment, there is a specific reason that the ports are arranged as they are in the board game. This is to do with balance of the game: if they are arranged differently then you could get ports too close together, which makes that area of the board much more powerful than it otherwise would be. To avoid this, each port needs to be at least two hex edges away from its nearest neighbour. As the board only has 30 outside edges, with nine ports this only leaves three leftover edges, so the possible variations are all very similar to each other if you try to space the ports out evenly. As to why there are nine ports, not ten, I don't know, but I expect the game designer tried the game with different variations and found nine to make a better game than ten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To quote Andrew Flynn's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The reason I chose not to force harbors positions even after the new version is I found that it was possible to create better and more variable board setups if I didn't add the constraint of fixed harbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I haven't played Andrew's game, I would be surprised if it allows ports to be too close together, and so while the exact locations may be different, the board will look similar and the overall balance of the game won't be affected. (The screenshots I've seen seem to support this.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, the &lt;em&gt;Seafarers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; introduces many scenarios with different port locations, but the ports are still carefully placed, and the &quot;variable setup&quot; rules suggest you don't move them (although you can shuffle them up, as usual). Again, this shows that the placement of ports is very important to the balance of the game, and shouldn't be messed with too much to avoid breaking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastEditorUserId="10047" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T10:48:23.237" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T10:48:23.237" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16785" CreationDate="2015-05-07T09:43:28.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://store.steampowered.com/app/286160/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tabletop Simulator&lt;/a&gt; gives you a sandbox board game world, so you could use it to solve card puzzles. However, it is not free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a free version you can try using &lt;a href=&quot;http://humage.com/playing_cards.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; website. It doesn't have the best user experience, but it does the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T09:43:28.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24061" CreationDate="2015-05-07T11:50:09.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my version of Settlers of Catan (bought in the UK circa 2007) the land hexes are surrounded by sea hexes. Some of these sea hexes have harbours drawn on them. But as the harbours are on individual hexes, their placement can be completely randomised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my version of Seafarers of Catan (bought in the UK circa 2009) the playing area is edged by long pieces, similar to the OP's. But the harbours are on small individual pieces that are placed on top of the sea (whether the sea in question is an edge piece or a sea hex in the middle of the play area). Hence, again, their placement can be completely randomised.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in answer to &lt;em&gt;&quot;Why does better settlers site shows custom 3:1 and 2:1 ratios?&quot;&lt;/em&gt; - It's not custom, it's just what came with the version they purchased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T11:50:09.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24061" CreationDate="2015-05-07T12:58:07.640" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;I created Better Settlers and the other answers are correct in that the version that I usually play with, the harbors are completely individualized on their own hexes so it's possible to completely randomize them. Newer versions of the game have the continuous puzzle-interlocking pieces to make things quicker for setting up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I chose not to force harbors positions even after the new version is I found that it was possible to create better and more variable board setups if I didn't add the constraint of fixed harbors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best solution with new versions is to flip the frame pieces over (so harbors aren't visible) and then use the additional harbor pieces that come included with the game (you can even just use a piece of paper if you don't have the additional pieces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1351" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T12:58:07.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24073" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:30:34.433" Score="4" ViewCount="1032" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that Alice and Bob are playing.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Alice casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serra%20Avatar&quot;&gt;Serra Avatar&lt;/a&gt;. Bob casts an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Backlash&quot;&gt;Essence Backlash&lt;/a&gt; targeting the Avatar.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Alice, realizing that that would kill her, casts an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=241990&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Autumn's Veil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Bob casts an overloaded &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterflux&quot;&gt;Counterflux&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Can the Essence Backlash still target the Serra Avatar even if  it is already countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T15:37:34.783" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T21:20:23.573" Title="Can a countered spell be targeted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24071" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:39:31.903" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alice will not die because an overloaded Counterflux also counters Serra Avatar, and therefore Essence Backlash does not deal damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the order that you described, Counterflux is the last spell to enter the stack, and therefore the first to resolve. It counters Autumn's Veil and Serra Avatar, removing both from the stack. Essence Backlash no longer has a valid target and when it comes to resolving it, it is instead removed from the stack and does not resolve, therefore dealing no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Bob had not overloaded the Counterflux and countered only Autumn's Veil, Alice would have died from Essence Backlash. If Bob had not played Counterflux at all, Alice would still have died because even though Autumn's Veil prevents the Serra Angel from being countered by Essence Backlash, it does not prevent the damage of Essence Backlash, because the damage is not conditional upon actually countering the creature spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countered spells are removed from the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2a The player announces that he or she is casting the spell. That card (or that copy of a card) moves from where it is to the stack. It becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has all the characteristics of the card (or the copy of a card) associated with it, and that player becomes its controller. &lt;strong&gt;The spell remains on the stack until it’s countered, it resolves, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spell for which all targets are illegal at the time of resolution does not resolve and is removed from the stack without causing any effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal.[..]  If all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal, the spell or ability doesn’t resolve. It’s removed from the stack and, if it’s a spell, put into its owner’s graveyard. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2018-10-04T09:34:38.763" LastActivityDate="2018-10-04T09:34:38.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24071" CreationDate="2015-05-07T15:42:47.310" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will still be targeting the Avatar but since it is no longer a legal target, due to being in the graveyard and not on the stack, the Backlash will &amp;quot;fizzle&amp;quot; (be countered due to lacking a legal target). This means that it will not deal damage to the Avatar's controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5a&lt;/strong&gt; To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that's no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. ... The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &amp;quot;target,&amp;quot; are now illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the Counterflux hadn't been overloaded and just targeted the Veil the Avatar would still be on the stack to get countered and Alice would then lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T15:42:47.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24199" CreationDate="2015-05-07T16:04:34.860" Score="3" ViewCount="122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the robot used to play the single player variant added by The Gather Storm expansion be used to played with other expansions (or the base game without the addition of the Gather Storm cards), or can it only be used to play The Gathering Storm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12522" LastEditorUserId="12522" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T09:32:04.777" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T11:13:18.500" Title="Can the robot play other expansions?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24075" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T18:56:55.613" Score="2" ViewCount="3573" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overseer%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Overseer of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; in the case of a board wipe? I know that all the creatures die at the same time, so do I still get zombies or is that ability mulled by the fact that Overseer is now gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12570" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T19:04:45.020" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T19:32:27.230" Title="Overseer of the Damned board wipe" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-07T21:51:55.613" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24075" CreationDate="2015-05-07T19:32:27.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming your opponent had two copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bear&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bear&lt;/a&gt; it would result in all three creatures being destroyed and afterwards you placing two 2/2 Black Zombie creature tokens into play tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overseer%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Overseer of the Damned&lt;/a&gt; has a triggered ability which is placed onto the stack the next time a player would get priority. Put more succinctly, the ability doesn't go onto the stack until after the board wipe has finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2714" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T19:32:27.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11336" CreationDate="2015-05-07T19:42:47.763" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some general thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You have to have the Ace of clubs, to win the first trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You can win every other trick with some combination of winners in the other suits, i.e. the top 12 diamonds, the top 4 cards in every other suit, etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice with enough length, you don't need to have only top cards...If you have the A,K,Q,J,10,9,X of Spades, X can be anything, because the previous high cards will pull out everything in that suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3)If you have AKQ of spades, and A,K,Q,J,10,9,X of hearts, you can just win with the hearts and the queen of spades, and lose all the rest (sluffing the AK of spades, even), as you will have all the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2015-05-07T19:42:47.763" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-07T20:02:08.290" Score="7" ViewCount="1283" Body="&lt;p&gt;Watching A Hard Days Night and they're playing cards in the train. Ringo shuffles the cards and someone (John?) says &quot;Aye Aye, the liverpool shuffle&quot; as Ringo doesn't actually shuffle the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He splits the pack, riffles them (but the halves are a few inches apart), and then puts the two halves back together again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this called the Liverpool Shuffle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastEditorUserId="12573" LastEditDate="2015-05-07T20:24:45.940" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T20:57:58.160" Title="What is the 'Liverpool Shuffle'?" Tags="|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24081" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24082" CreationDate="2015-05-08T06:11:07.163" Score="4" ViewCount="2922" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Conscription&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Conscription&lt;/a&gt; on a creature they control. Before Eldrazi Conscription resolves, can I redirect it onto my creature using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shunt&quot;&gt;Shunt&lt;/a&gt;, for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T17:40:23.783" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T17:40:23.783" Title="Can I steal an opponent's aura by changing the target while it is on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24081" CreationDate="2015-05-08T06:11:07.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.1b Aura spells are always targeted. These are the only permanent spells with targets. An Aura’s target is specified by its enchant&#xA;keyword ability (see rule 702.5, “Enchant”). The target(s) are chosen&#xA;as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. An Aura permanent doesn’t&#xA;target anything; only the spell is targeted. (An activated or&#xA;triggered ability of an Aura permanent can also be targeted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.3a If the object that’s resolving is an Aura spell, its resolution involves two steps. First, it checks whether the target specified by&#xA;its enchant ability is still legal, as described in rule 608.2b. (See&#xA;rule 702.5, “Enchant.”) If so, the spell card becomes a permanent and&#xA;is put onto the battlefield under the control of the spell’s&#xA;controller attached to the object it was targeting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have a creature to change the target of the aura to, you can have it attach to your creature instead of the one your opponent intended, since changing the target of the aura spell changes what it enters the battlefield attached to.  However, there is a catch. &lt;strong&gt;The aura will be attached to your creature but you will not be its controller.&lt;/strong&gt; Your opponent still controls the spell so they will still control the aura permanent, as mentioned above in 608.3a and reaffirmed by the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4e An Aura’s controller is separate from the enchanted object’s controller or the enchanted player; the two need not be the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't make a difference for Eldrazi Conscription, since Eldrazi Conscription modifies the creature directly.  But in the case of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armadillo%20Cloak&quot;&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/a&gt;, you opponent would still control the triggered life gain ability and consequently would be the one to gain life for the damage dealt by your creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-08T13:21:08.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T13:21:08.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-08T12:52:55.687" Score="4" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a effective way to apply a handicap to a good player in Race for the Galaxy (especially in a 2-player game)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would consider a good handicap as one that is not omnipresent (for example, a subtle starting bonus) and one that does not negate normal strategies (lest the weaker player rely on it and not improve their skills).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some ideas that come to mind include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the weaker player to draw 8 (instead of 6) and discard down to 6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making the stronger player put their starting word in their hand instead of playing it automatically&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allowing the weaker player to have 2 of the starting worlds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried any handicaps and found one that is effective without drastically altering the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12522" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:16:53.173" Title="How to effectively handicap a good player?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24085" CreationDate="2015-05-08T15:16:53.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually give new players an Investment Bank (draw a card during the develop phase) in addition to their start world. It passively gives them extra cards throughout the game, without really changing strategic considerations (there is one less Investment Bank for anyone going for the Galactic Federation development superbuild).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-08T15:16:53.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3350" CreationDate="2015-05-09T05:33:38.093" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would be legal the way we play.  Putting your last peg in the castle using say 3 of a seven and finishing your move by moving your partner's peg on the outside track the rest of the seven say 4. (or any other split of a seven combination).  Our group have agreed to use the &quot;Basic Rules&quot; with one variation (Don't have to use the Left Hand partner, your choice but only one at a time) AND the addition of the Arizona rule of 9 being split( part forward and the other part backwards)  We find this speeds-up the game and makes for a better game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12587" LastEditorUserId="12248" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T09:37:20.903" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T09:37:20.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10945" CreationDate="2015-05-09T09:01:48.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CASE&lt;/strong&gt;: Players in the round are Profiteur, Blue dwarf, Green dwarf, a Saboteur and the Boss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Boss and Profiteur will win&lt;/strong&gt;. (Green and Blue are blocked by doors. Saboteur wins only if gold is not found. Boss wins if there is a connection to the gold. Profiteour wins always). Since there are two winners, it will mean 4 points for each. Boss will get &lt;em&gt;one point less&lt;/em&gt;, and receives &lt;strong&gt;3 points&lt;/strong&gt;. Profiteur gets always &lt;em&gt;two points less&lt;/em&gt;, and receives &lt;strong&gt;2 points&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T09:25:54.997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T09:25:54.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6928" CreationDate="2015-05-09T09:02:48.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Since the scoring depends on the player combination, I will discuss on four different cases. The scoring rules are summarized at the bottom of this post.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Situation:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Route to gold is blocked with both, &lt;strong&gt;green&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;blue door.&lt;/strong&gt; This immediately implies that no blue or green team can win. Players in blue or green team will get no points.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A player (&lt;strong&gt;Any player&lt;/strong&gt;: Blue, Green, Boss, Geologist, Profiteur or Saboteur) makes a connection to the gold, and flips the card. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CASE 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players in the round are two Green diggers, Blue digger, Boss,&#xA;Saboteur and Geologist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Only Boss will win&lt;/strong&gt;. (Green and Blue are blocked by doors. Saboteur wins only if gold is not found. Geologist is never a loser or a winner). Since there is only one winner, it will mean 5 points. Since the winner is the boss, he gets &lt;em&gt;one point less&lt;/em&gt;, and receives &lt;strong&gt;4 points&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CASE 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players in the round are two Green diggers, Blue digger, Boss, Saboteur, Geologist and Profiteur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Boss and Profiteur will win&lt;/strong&gt;. (Green and Blue are blocked by doors. Saboteur wins only if gold is not found. Geologist is never a loser or a winner). Since there are two winners, it will mean 4 points for each. Boss will get &lt;em&gt;one point less&lt;/em&gt;, and receives &lt;strong&gt;3 points&lt;/strong&gt;. Profiteur gets always &lt;em&gt;two points less&lt;/em&gt;, and receives &lt;strong&gt;2 points&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CASE 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players in the round are two Green diggers, Blue digger,  Saboteur, Geologist and Profiteur.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Only Profiteur will win&lt;/strong&gt;. (Green and Blue are blocked by doors. Saboteur wins only if gold is not found. Geologist is never a loser or a winner). Since there is only one winner, it will mean 5 points. Since the winner is the profiteur, he gets &lt;em&gt;two points less&lt;/em&gt;, and receives &lt;strong&gt;3 points&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CASE 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players in the round are two Green diggers, two Saboteurs, and two Geologist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Nobody wins.&lt;/strong&gt; Only geologists will collect points this round. If three gems are visible, both geologists will get one point. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the points are: (All rules without links are taken from the rulebook. Other rules are confirmed by Frederic Moyersoen behind the respective link.). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Green, Blue&lt;/strong&gt;: Wins, if hes/hers team member makes a connection to the gold. (And there are doors blocking the way).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Boss&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/6675274#6675274&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wins, if there is a connection to the gold&lt;/a&gt;. Gets always one point less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Profiteer&lt;/strong&gt;: Wins always. Gets two points less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Saboteur&lt;/strong&gt;: Wins, if the gold card is never flipped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Geologist&lt;/strong&gt;: Never loses or wins. Only collects as many points as there are gems visible (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/7735083#7735083&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;connected to the tunnel or not.&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/9828023#9828023&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;If &quot;Trapped!&quot;, does not collect points&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a &quot;Trapped!&quot; player is not counted as a winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T15:03:47.557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T15:03:47.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21395" CreationDate="2015-05-09T09:44:02.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &#xA;Unless the previous &lt;em&gt;Theft&lt;/em&gt; card is removed by a &lt;em&gt;Hands off&lt;/em&gt; -card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Saboteur_2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Z-Man games rules for Saboteur 2&lt;/a&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As in the base game, in this expansion &lt;strong&gt;no player can have 2 action&#xA;  cards of the same type&lt;/strong&gt;  affecting them at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Same rule can be found also in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/215465/nordic-compilation-edition-2012&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nordic edition&lt;/a&gt; rulebook)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T09:44:02.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23800" CreationDate="2015-05-09T10:42:43.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Is there rule for table talk?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang/bang_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; which would allow/disallow the talking of dead players. The official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang/bang_faq_eng.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q1. Can players talk during the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Of course! That's one of the most amusing aspects of the game. --&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but even there nothing is said explicitly about dead players.  This means that the decision must be made between the players (a house rule). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;But does it matter?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normally&lt;/strong&gt;: No. It should not matter if the dead players can talk. (Except if you let them see other players' playing/role cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When playing with the tournament points system&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/29284/bang-official-tournament-scoring&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bang!#Official_tournament_score&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bang.cz/en/rules-and-faq/special-rules/64-official-tournament-scoring-system.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bang.cz&lt;/a&gt;): Yes, it matters. Also the dead players may get points, and therefore it is fair to give the players opportunity to affect the outcome (and their score) by talking. This game is very much a social game, where bluffing and manipulation has a huge role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-09T14:54:30.333" LastActivityDate="2015-05-09T14:54:30.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24094" CreationDate="2015-05-09T17:02:10.940" Score="3" ViewCount="6489" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83834&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lurking Informant&lt;/a&gt;, have a comma seperating 2 costs for an ability. What does that mean? Do I pay one of the costs or both to use the effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T06:54:45.700" Title="What does the comma mean in a card effect's cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24094" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24093" CreationDate="2015-05-09T17:17:39.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a single cost and you pay both parts. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activation_cost&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;From the Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.1 Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.1a The activation cost is everything before the colon (:). An ability’s activation cost must be paid by the player who is activating it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: The activation cost of an ability that reads “{2}, {T}: You gain 1 life” is two mana of any type plus tapping the permanent that has the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8520" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T21:03:03.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24095" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-09T17:27:30.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paris Connection is a boardgame where the board represents the map of France, and each player is a stockholder for railway companies. Different railway companies are represented by six different colors of locomotives, and these locomotives are used for both building the routes and as stock markers. The value of a company is increased when a route is built through cities (worth 1-4 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to have the most valuable stock collection in the end of the game. &lt;em&gt;I.e.&lt;/em&gt; when a company constructs a railway to Marseille, or when only one company has locomotives left in the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing time: about 30 minutes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players: 3-6&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Year published: 2010&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/75358/paris-connection&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T04:23:36.817" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T04:23:36.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24096" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-09T17:27:30.463" Score="0" Body="A fast, railway-themed stock holding and railroad building game for 3-6 players." OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-10T04:24:05.647" LastActivityDate="2015-05-10T04:24:05.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-10T07:56:35.470" Score="1" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reckless%20Imp&quot;&gt;Reckless Imp&lt;/a&gt; for its Dash cost and Bestow a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nyxborn%20Rollicker&quot;&gt;Nyxborn Rollicker&lt;/a&gt; on it, will the Rollicker still become a creature and trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Impact%20Tremors&quot;&gt;Impact Tremors&lt;/a&gt; upon the Imp returning to my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12596" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T13:48:16.570" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T13:48:16.570" Title="Does a bestow creature falling off trigger Impact Tremors?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-05-10T15:49:43.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24102" CreationDate="2015-05-10T08:44:45.730" Score="4" ViewCount="363" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just started playing Magic using the Android app, and I really like it.  Now I would like to start playing Magic with real cards as well. In the Android app I chose the deck that focuses on stealing enemy life,  and adding it to your own.  Is there any pre-made intro deck for this play style? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12598" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T06:23:02.597" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T15:01:39.810" Title="Is there a Magic intro deck that focuses on lifestealing?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24100" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24101" CreationDate="2015-05-10T11:40:32.293" Score="1" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; has the Card Type &quot;Phenomenon&quot; and &quot;Ongoing&quot;. Does anyone knows what those two refer to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T15:00:58.037" Title="What is the card type Phenomenon and Ongoing?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24100" CreationDate="2015-05-10T16:10:11.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both are used in &lt;em&gt;Magic&lt;/em&gt; variant formats; that is, not the &amp;quot;usual&amp;quot; rules of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Phenomenon&lt;/strong&gt; is a card type used in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/2012-edition-frequently-asked-questions-2012-05-24&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Planechase&lt;/a&gt; format. Cards of this type are oversized, and put in a separate &lt;em&gt;planar deck&lt;/em&gt;, along with &lt;strong&gt;Plane&lt;/strong&gt; cards, not the deck that becomes the player's library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ongoing&lt;/strong&gt; is a supertype that only applies to the &lt;strong&gt;Scheme&lt;/strong&gt; card type, which is used in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160117184705/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/91&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archenemy&lt;/a&gt; variant. Cards of this type are also oversized, and put in a separate &lt;em&gt;scheme deck&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8184" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-06T15:00:58.037" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T15:00:58.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24099" CreationDate="2015-05-10T17:41:51.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the clearest &amp;quot;life stealing&amp;quot; mechanics is &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Extort&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extort&lt;/a&gt;, which is a triggered ability permanents have that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell, you may pay {W/B}. If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain life equal to the total life lost this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extort is from the Return to Ravnica block, and there were two intro packs built around it and related mechanics: &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150927110702/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/gatecrash/intropacks#deck1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orzhov Oppression&lt;/a&gt; from Gatecrash and &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150927110413/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/dragonsmaze/intropacks#deck2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orzhov Power&lt;/a&gt; from Dragon's Maze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-06T15:01:39.810" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T15:01:39.810" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24103" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24104" CreationDate="2015-05-11T02:09:25.557" Score="4" ViewCount="3014" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was creating a deck on deck builder and I wanted to make a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corrosive%20Mentor&quot;&gt;Corrosive Mentor&lt;/a&gt; combination in which I can change a powerful creature's color to black so that it can have the wither effect. Anyone know any cards that can do that? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T17:52:30.473" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T17:52:30.473" Title="What are some card in MTG that can change a creature's color?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24103" CreationDate="2015-05-11T02:36:33.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few cards that can do this. Some specifically turn creatures black:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkest%20Hour&quot;&gt;Darkest Hour&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Servitude&quot;&gt;Grave Servitude&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sinister%20Strength&quot;&gt;Sinister Strength&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others let you choose a color, and make creatures that color:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=228270&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alchor's Tomb&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blind%20Seer&quot;&gt;Blind Seer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Distorting%20Lens&quot;&gt;Distorting Lens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusion&quot;&gt;Illusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Painter's Servant&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shifting%20Sky&quot;&gt;Shifting Sky&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sway%20of%20Illusion&quot;&gt;Sway of Illusion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tidal%20Visionary&quot;&gt;Tidal Visionary&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, finally, there are some cards that let you change the word &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; on Corrosive Mentor, so that it affects green creatures instead of black ones, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alter%20Reality&quot;&gt;Alter Reality&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crystal%20Spray&quot;&gt;Crystal Spray&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glamerdye&quot;&gt;Glamerdye&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Bend&quot;&gt;Mind Bend&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sleight%20of%20Mind&quot;&gt;Sleight of Mind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spectral%20Shift&quot;&gt;Spectral Shift&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swirl%20the%20Mists&quot;&gt;Swirl the Mists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trait%20Doctoring&quot;&gt;Trait Doctoring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whim%20of%20Volrath&quot;&gt;Whim of Volrath&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bolded all of the cards that are either black or colorless (so they don't restrict what other cards you can play). Across the last two lists, blue is the most common color, so blue is probably a good second color for this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T07:40:44.027" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T07:40:44.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24107" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:05:38.550" Score="1" ViewCount="12836" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240006&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; has &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exile target creature you control, then return that card to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are creatures already in my graveyard still under my control? Can I return one of them to the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(No, I don't think &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/14609/returning-permanents-from-my-graveyard&quot;&gt;that one&lt;/a&gt; answers my question. It's not &quot;permanent&quot;, but &quot;creature you control&quot;)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T19:17:52.387" Title="Do I &quot;control&quot; creatures in my graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-12T00:58:17.677" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24105" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:21:41.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 109.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype &lt;strong&gt;on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In its targetting clause, Cloudshift says &quot;creature&quot; without any of the specified words, so it's referring to a creature permanent on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you don't control anything in the graveyard. Rule 109.4 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only objects on the stack or on the battlefield have a controller. Objects that are neither on the stack nor on the battlefield aren't controlled by any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects that deal with cards in the graveyard would refer to their owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T19:11:10.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T19:11:10.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24105" CreationDate="2015-05-11T18:21:52.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. You only control creatures on the battlefield and creature spells on the stack. Anywhere else they are creature cards that you own, but do not control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.4.&lt;/strong&gt; Only objects on the stack or on the battlefield have a controller. Objects that are neither on the stack nor on the battlefield aren't controlled by any player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though if you control the cards in your graveyard isn't really material, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Otherworldly%20Journey&quot;&gt;Otherworldly Journey&lt;/a&gt; still couldn't target a creature in a graveyard, this is because if a spell or ability doesn't have any sort of qualifier on it (like Creature spell, Land card) it means a permanent on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.2&lt;/strong&gt; If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &amp;quot;card,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;spell,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;source,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;scheme,&amp;quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T19:17:52.387" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T19:17:52.387" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-11T21:53:52.987" Score="4" ViewCount="2156" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building an Exalted deck, and I've been looking for a card that would completely break the mechanic and make my creatures nearly unstoppable. So far I've had no luck, but here's where I'm hoping you guys can help. I don't know whether it would be an enchantment, creature, artifact, or whatever, but here's a basic description of what I'd like the card to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If a creature you control would get +X/+X, it gets X +1/+1 counters instead.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would essentially make the Exalted bonus permanent and not just till the end of the turn. If you know of any cards (or combinations of cards, for that matter) that can do something like this, please let me know. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12605" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2020-04-28T14:44:21.277" LastActivityDate="2020-04-28T14:44:21.277" Title="Is there a card that turns +X/+X into X +1/+1 counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:16:49.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a very powerful effect. I wouldn't expect it to be easy to muster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could find only two cards that come close: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vish%20Kal%2C%20Blood%20Arbiter&quot;&gt;Vish Kal, Blood Arbiter&lt;/a&gt; and&#xA;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ooze%20Garden&quot;&gt;Ooze Garden&lt;/a&gt;. Of course, these cards are the ones that get bigger permanently, not the attackers. The Ooze Garden is a bit problematic because it requires the creature to survive combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might find an easier way to abuse the Exalted mechanic is to use something like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood-Chin%20Fanatic&quot;&gt;Blood-Chin Fanatic&lt;/a&gt;. But really, you're overthinking it. The way to make an exalted attacker nearly unstoppable is to ensure it has hexproof and evasion. Hi &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Invisible%20Stalker&quot;&gt;Invisible Stalker&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:16:49.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:17:37.690" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you're suggesting basically can't work. Adding +1/+1 counters is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/One-Shot_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one-shot effect&lt;/a&gt;, but giving a creature +X/+X (temporarily) is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;continuous effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, when an effect is created that gives a creature +X/+X, it doesn't really count as an event. It can't trigger abilities (directly), and it can't be replaced. It's just a continuous effect that wasn't there before, and is there now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:17:37.690" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:20:22.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few cards that do something similar to what you're looking for. However, most of them require your creatures do actually deal damage first and are outside of the most dominant Exalted color, White:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=War%20Elemental&quot;&gt;War Elemental&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;Whenever an opponent is dealt damage, put that many +1/+1 counters on War Elemental.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necropolis%20Regent&quot;&gt;Necropolis Regent&lt;/a&gt;  &amp;quot;Whenever a creature you control deals combat damage to a player, put that many +1/+1 counters on it.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shaman%20of%20the%20Great%20Hunt&quot;&gt;Shaman of the Great Hunt&lt;/a&gt;: &amp;quot;Whenever a creature you control deals combat damage to a player, put a +1/+1 counter on it.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sakiko%2C%20Mother%20of%20Summer&quot;&gt;Sakiko, Mother of Summer&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;Whenever a creature you control deals combat damage to a player, add that much Green to your mana pool. Until end of turn, this mana doesn't empty from your mana pool as steps and phases end.&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;You could spend that mana and another card to spread +1/+1 counters around.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleam%20of%20Battle&quot;&gt;Gleam of Battle&lt;/a&gt;: Whenever a creature you control attacks, put a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T22:25:42.690" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:25:42.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2015-05-11T22:29:49.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Consumptive%20Goo&quot;&gt;Consumptive Goo&lt;/a&gt; allows you to do close to what you want, but it's pretty expensive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{2}{B}{B}: Target creature gets -1/-1 until end of turn. Put a +1/+1 counter on Consumptive Goo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could attack with it alone, then target it with its own ability to effectively eat the +1/+1 from the exalted and turn it into a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes, it's ridiculous that it can grow permanently by gnawing on itself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could attack with something else, then after combat damage (assuming it doesn't die) use Consumptive Goo on your other creature, effectively eating the +1/+1 from exalted while leaving the creature alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-05-11T22:42:07.150" LastActivityDate="2015-05-11T22:42:07.150" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2015-05-11T23:34:23.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a deck that uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDeathrender%5d&quot;&gt;Deathrender&lt;/a&gt;, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever equipped creature dies, you may put a creature card from your hand onto the battlefield and attach Deathrender to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3C2e7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hows a 17/17 with annihilator 6 sound? xD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12607" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T01:58:33.307" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T01:58:33.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2015-05-12T00:16:24.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heroes%27%20Bane&quot;&gt;Heroes&amp;#39; Bane&lt;/a&gt; is a great Exalted target.  It effectively doubles in power when activated, so activating it after your exalted triggers resolve will result in a permanent boost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other ways to take advantage of the creature's temporary power bonus though, beyond making it permanent. (And the nice thing about Exalted is, you can just attack again the next turn!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prime%20Speaker%20Zegana&quot;&gt;Prime Speaker Zegana&lt;/a&gt; and Greater Good are good examples in Exalted colours.  Casting Zegana or activating Greater Good after attacking will get you more cards to build up your board, or help you recover from board wipers, which are the nemesis of Exalted decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12609" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T00:16:24.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24118" CreationDate="2015-05-12T00:24:17.413" Score="-2" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are good cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; that are good for a green-black deck that revolves around &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrender&quot;&gt;Deathrender&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12607" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T01:27:52.353" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T01:27:52.353" Title="MTG Emrakul like cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-12T02:03:30.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24117" CreationDate="2015-05-12T01:25:28.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are cheating creatures onto the battlefield (i.e. not paying their mana cost), the creatures themselves need not be in green/black/colorless.  Try searching for creatures with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=cmc%3E%3D8%20t%3Acreature&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;high converted mana costs&lt;/a&gt;.  They are the ones you are looking for to get the most value out of cards like deathrender.  Here are a few of my favorites:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldspine%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Worldspine Wurm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iona%2C%20Shield%20of%20Emeria&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blazing%20Archon&quot;&gt;Blazing Archon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Emperion&quot;&gt;Platinum Emperion&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avacyn%2C%20Angel%20of%20Hope&quot;&gt;Avacyn, Angel of Hope&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T01:25:28.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24123" CreationDate="2015-05-12T07:58:52.273" Score="3" ViewCount="3895" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I'm looking to buy card sleeves as a surprise for a friend who has Struggle for Catan but can't seem to find the cards' dimensions. Please help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10172" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-04-14T23:50:00.283" LastActivityDate="2018-04-14T23:50:00.283" Title="Struggle for Catan card sizes" Tags="|card-sleeves|struggle-for-catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24109" CreationDate="2015-05-12T11:52:06.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%27s%20Might&quot;&gt;Soul&amp;#39;s Might&lt;/a&gt; be what you are looking for. It places a number of +1/+1 counters on a creature equal to it's power. Sadly, it is a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T11:52:06.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24121" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-12T12:34:40.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gloria Picktoria is a card game for two to five players. The objective of the game is to accessorize your character by playing accessory cards from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout the game, points are awarded to those who have accessories that no one else has, as well as to those who have the largest collection of a specific type of accessories. Whoever has the most points after the last tally is proclaimed the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T13:54:45.970" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:54:45.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24122" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-12T12:34:40.500" Score="0" Body="Two to five players play as chickens that collect accessories to improve their social status." OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-05-12T13:54:48.337" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T13:54:48.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2015-05-12T18:17:16.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/164572/item/2968811#item2968811&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this post on boardgamegeek.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SwanPanasia 'Standard USA' 57x90mm sleeves are reported to fit these cards perfectly. They are, however, larger than similarly-sized sleeves from other makers, so those other makers 'Standard USA' sleeves may or may not fit these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those card sleeves can be found for sale on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.swanpanasiasleeves.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SwanPanasia's site&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.swanpanasiasleeves.com/collections/standard-sleeves/products/swan-card-sleeves-57x90-mm-std-usa-160-per-pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Standard&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.swanpanasiasleeves.com/collections/premium-sleeves/products/swan-prem-card-sleeves-57x90-mm-std-usa-100-per-pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Premium&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="21120" LastEditDate="2017-06-23T20:48:12.743" LastActivityDate="2017-06-23T20:48:12.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13734" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:32:51.410" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll enumerate some general tips below (followed by keener insight after having played over 150 hours):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Do not obsess about keeping the world tidy, clear of gates, of monsters, of clues. Accept that it is messy and will just get messier. Think more about taking from it what's useful to you at any point in time.  You have so few turns before that mythos deck runs out, before that doom counter reaches zero. Think of it like you're standing at the doorway of the shack in the middle of the pen filled with walking dead zombies. Bee-line it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Make your optimal clue-gathering plan. Some characters are particularly effective in obtaining, dispersing clues, which are generally good as dice saving graces and often essential for mysteries. Assess if you have a better plan than simply &quot;let's see where the clues fall and get there fast&quot;. Example: Use the spy's special action to generate clues every turn; keep a partner close by to hand them off.  Move the Psychic one space over and park her in Arkham to try to get spells and score the Clairvoyance spell likely to make her a clue factory (and pair with her ability to send clues to players around the world).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Think about what your character does best and specialize. This might be obvious to seasoned co-op gamers, but became more obvious to me when realizing how fruitless it was to try to clean the board systematically and how much more useful it was just to tune out what a creepy bug in south america is doing at the moment. Take the politician; just sit in San Francisco with him for the first 2 or 3 rounds acquiring assets for your fellow team members and make the best of boosting their stats and equipment as early as possible where it will give you the best return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are only a handful of observations from 5 play throughs (1st loss, then 4 wins with very few players and an even number at that since I suspect the odd numbered teams have a tougher time after looking at the gate/clue spawn rate on the reference cards).  The takeaway is to make an initial specialized plan and then reassess 2 or 3 rounds in because, at that point, you probably have acquired assets, conditions (hopefully blessed), and spells that &lt;em&gt;require&lt;/em&gt; you to shift your strategy to fully optimize your best chances of winning.  Stay nimble in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit: After having now played over 40 campaigns across all the expansions, I thought it would be nice to write down my thoughts on things to consider for optimizing success in Eldritch Horror.  In reviewing my old answer, I feel the advice I gave was more high level and hand-wavy, while the tips I'll list below will aim to be more focused and specific&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Take Debt and Acquire Assets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The penalties for a collected debt are often well worth the extra bonus 2 successes. If you have a spare action to waste removing a debt, go ahead, but I usually reserve this strictly for investigators who have such high influence that they spend their turn removing debt and then acquiring assets again (i.e. Politician).  Having a large number of assets on hand is so valuable and can be handed down even after your investigator dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Take one (dark pact) for the team&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When given the option to take a Dark Pact or advance doom, &lt;strong&gt;strongly consider&lt;/strong&gt; taking the Dark Pact.  If the pact results in you or another being devoured, doom advances anyway, and thinking of the investigators as expendable allows you to get fresh characters and not hang onto someone who is flailing.  The Sanctuary asset card can sometimes come into play to remove the Pact before you suffer that 1 of 6 roll anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Stand together&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look for ways to strengthen each other by moving together.  Many items and abilities work with others on the same space (Urban Guide Asset, Actress additional roll passive ability, Secretary's amazing abilities(!)). The certainty that comes with strengthening each others' rolls often outweighs the disadvantage of covering less space.  Often, key items such as the Mi-Go Brain Case and Plumb the Void altogether alleviate travel issues largely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Tokyo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look to Tokyo as a potential base of operations for sniping monsters across the board. The ability to damage and discard will minimize both the damage and uncertainty of combat encounters, and the wasted turns traveling (spend those turns acquiring assets, etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Specialize skills first&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your best skills and lean toward improving those, not creating a 'renaissance' investigator.  This is just basic common strategy to try to assign roles quickly, such as the 'gate closer' (Shaman is great for that) or the 'spell accumulator' (Astronomer is great, and acquiring flesh ward and install bravery are very useful to soften damage to health and sanity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T03:56:46.830" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T03:56:46.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24126" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24127" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:49:16.657" Score="4" ViewCount="3053" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Guillotine, the &lt;em&gt;Confusion in Line&lt;/em&gt; -action card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose a player. Randomly rearrange the line just before that player&#xA;  collects his or her next noble&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Master Spy card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After each action card is played, move this card to the end of the&#xA;  line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Master Spy is in the line, will he go to the end of the line after the card is placed on the table, or after the line is shuffled? &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;i.e.&lt;/em&gt; Is it possible to collect the Master Spy with the &lt;em&gt;Confusion in Line&lt;/em&gt; (and luck), when there are multiple cards in the line?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/J6s2l.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Confusion in Line -action card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Additional info&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Zags noted, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/17154#17154&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;user Robrob in BGG&lt;/a&gt; has asked a question from the makers of this game (WoTC)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Master Spy card goes to the back of the line each time an Action&#xA;  Card is played. There are two possibilities: a) an Action Card is&#xA;  played - the Master Spy is moved to the back of the line - the Action&#xA;  Card is carried out or b) an Action Card is played - the Action Card&#xA;  is carried out - the Master Spy is moved to the back of the line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and got a reply &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The answer is B, there is no way to play a card to get the master spy&#xA;  to the front of the line without him just going back after the cards&#xA;  effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this does not answer the questions, which will arise from the usage of &lt;em&gt;Confusion in line&lt;/em&gt; -action card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c) No action cards are placed on the table - Effect of an action card (Confusion in line) is triggered - &lt;strong&gt;Does the Master Spy move?&lt;/strong&gt; - Noble is beheaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) Action card is placed on the table - No effects of an action card is resolved (played &lt;em&gt;Confusion in Line&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;+2 points at the end of the game&lt;/em&gt;, or similar) - &lt;strong&gt;Does the Master Spy move?&lt;/strong&gt; - Noble is beheaded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6151" LastEditorUserId="6151" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T06:48:21.757" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T14:42:40.287" Title="Confusion in Line and the Master Spy" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24126" CreationDate="2015-05-12T20:59:35.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My conclusion is that Confusion in Line can move the Master Spy to a different position in line without him moving back.  This conclusion is based on the principal that &lt;strong&gt;consistency of rules trumps authorial intent&lt;/strong&gt;.  The explanation follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2297/how-do-you-play-the-master-spy-in-guillotine&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, there is an official answer from Wizards of the Coast &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/5140/ded-elusive-master-spy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Action Card is played - the Action Card is carried out - the Master&#xA;Spy is moved to the back of the line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no way to play a card to get the master spy to the front of the line without him just going back&#xA;after the cards effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Master Spy has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each action card is played, move this card to the end of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What these together seem to imply is that the resolution of an action card is included in the playing it, and the Master Spy moves only after the card has finished it's resolution and has been placed face up in the play area or in the discard.  Then, the Master Spy will move regardless of whether or not the card had an effect (so playing Fountain of Blood which is just worth two points but doesn't do anything will still cause the Master Spy to move).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we are left with two options in the case of Confusion in Line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option 1: Take the WotC's answer to the letter.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that we pay particular attention to their point that there is &lt;em&gt;no way whatsoever possible in the who wide game&lt;/em&gt; to manipulate the line such that the Master Spy does not end up at the end.  And there is your answer.  You play Confusion in Line, and then the Master Spy ends up at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is an unsatisfactory answer because it isn't well reasoned.  It's saying the Master Spy's ability trumps Confusion in Line's ability because... it just does.  Author's intent is irrelevant without an official FAQ or card specific ruling.  This is not how I play Guillotine.  For that, move on to option 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Option 2: Use what we know about other WotC products (namely Magic the Gathering) to create a consistent rules framework for Guillotine.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are three phases to a turn in Guillotine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play an action card (optional)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Collect the first noble in line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Draw an action card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Confusion in Line creates a delayed triggered ability that takes affect in phase 2 of the turn of the player of your choice.  It must be in phase two, because if it were during phase 1, a player could avoid the trigger by not playing an action card on their turn (in which case Confusion in Line would read &amp;quot;Randomly rearrange the line after that player plays an action card&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With this framework, we can also determine that the Master Spy moves to the end of the line at the end of phase 1.  Thus, phase 1 (if the player chooses to have it) has the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play action card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Resolve effects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put action card on table or in discard as appropriate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move Master Spy (if relevant)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat these steps if you are allowed to play another action card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you chose yourself with Confusion in Line.  The resolution of effects for Confusion in Line is merely the creation of the delayed trigger.  It is then discarded.  The Master Spy so cleverly moves to the end.  Then we move on to phase 2.  The line gets shuffled.  The Master Spy is at the front!  You scoop him up and get a delicious four points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, on the next player's turn, they play an action card and the Master Spy leaves your score area to go back to the end of the line :P (just kidding; although this might not be a joke since apparently &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/217462/offical-guillotine-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Clerical Error... end[s] the day and discard[s] all nobles in line if used to get Robespierre from someone else's score pile.&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;; noble abilities working from score areas is a whole other rats nest that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24159/in-guillotine-do-noble-abilities-work-from-the-score-area&quot;&gt;we will deal with elsewhere&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyways, I also like this option flavor-wise as well because it means even the Master Spy is thrown off by mass confusion (there is no good information for him to act off of).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-05-16T14:42:40.287" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T14:42:40.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24129" CreationDate="2015-05-12T23:29:30.347" Score="0" ViewCount="401" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDonate%5d&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; is a pretty useful yet useless card. I have two questions about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Target player gains control of target permanent you control.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the &quot;target permanent you want your opponent to control&quot; has to be on the battlefield? And also, when your opponent takes control of that card, does it go into their control (command) on the battlefield? Or does it go into their hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T17:19:02.100" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T17:19:02.100" Title="How does Donate work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24128" CreationDate="2015-05-12T23:49:43.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Target permanent you control refers to a card on the battlefield. So yes it has to be on the battlefield and it would stay on the battlefield when it comes under their control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12621" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:49:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24128" CreationDate="2015-05-12T23:55:01.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a card says &quot;target permanent&quot;, it means a permanent on the battlefield. This is specified in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 109.2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a card says that a player &quot;gains control&quot; of a permanent, it means that the permanent's controller changes from the player that currently controls it to the new player. It doesn't change anything else about the permanent, like counters or whether it's tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-12T23:55:01.990" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7690" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:07:42.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends on your version. I am playing the 1981 version where the rulebook has 31 numbered pages not including the back cover. There is a misprint on page 13 in the illustration showing where a tank can and cannot blitz (The tank cannot blitz in either illustration as there is an industrial complex preventing blitz).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this page, (p.13), under &quot;Aircraft Carriers: &quot;...Fighters belonging to a friendly power on board another power's carrier (guest fighters) must remain on board as cargo in the carrier moves in this phase. (Combat Movement) They cannot take part in combat and are destroyed if the carrier is destroyed.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That seems to refer only to attacking, as on page 26, under &quot;Aircraft Carriers&quot; it states: &quot;...&lt;strong&gt;Fighter Defense:&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a carrier is attacked, its fighters (even those belonging to friendly powers) are considered to be defending in the air and fight normally...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there you have it: All fighters on aircraft carriers DEFEND but only fighters which belong to the same power as the aircraft carrier may ATTACK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also choose to have the fighters fly to another battle or location away from the battle and return to the aircraft carrier (if it is still there!) after battle resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12601" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T22:12:14.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T22:12:14.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24134" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:17:13.717" Score="13" ViewCount="6160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271225&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt;, sacrificing my only creature to kill my opponent.  My opponent responds with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=50929&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Last Word&lt;/a&gt;, which will win the game the other way.  Last Word says &quot;This spell can't be countered.&quot;  What else can I do about it besides countering it to prevent my plans from being foiled?  (I'd really like to have the last word here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historic Note: before of the April 2018 rules change, uncounterable spells with targets used to actually have different wording (still visible on the printed cards) implying that they still could be countered.  For example, Last Word said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Last Word can't be countered by spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile Akroma, Angel of Fury said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Akroma, Angel of Fury can't be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2018-11-16T02:59:25.373" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T11:09:42.043" Title="What can I do about uncounterable spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24133" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:17:13.717" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is now no way to &quot;counter&quot; an uncounterable spell, but you can achieve the same effect by preventing it from resolving.  The easiest way to do this is to cause all of its targets to be invalid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process.  &lt;strong&gt;If all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal, the spell or ability doesn’t resolve.&lt;/strong&gt; It’s removed from the stack and, if it’s a spell, put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 ways to do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the target of the uncounterable spell.  You can prevent Last Word from resolving by changing it's target, such as via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRedirect%5d&quot;&gt;Redirect&lt;/a&gt;.  By using Redirect to change Last Word to target Redirect, Last Word will not resolve, as described in this ruling:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you cast Redirect targeting a spell that targets a spell on the stack (like Cancel does, for example), you can’t change that spell’s target to itself. You can, however, change that spell’s target to Redirect. If you do, that spell won’t resolve when it tries to resolve because Redirect will have left the stack by then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the targeted object a new object.  If the targeted object is a spell, you can use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bErtai%27s%5d%2b%5bMeddling%5d&quot;&gt;Ertai&amp;#39;s Meddling&lt;/a&gt; will bring your spell back later when their spell is no longer on the stack.  If the targeted object is a permanent (such as a creature targeted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInescapable%20Blaze%5d&quot;&gt;Inescapable Blaze&lt;/a&gt;), exiling it and returning it to the battlefield (such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMomentary%20Blink%5d&quot;&gt;Momentary Blink&lt;/a&gt;) will cause it to become a new permanent and no longer targeted by the spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as uncounterable spells in general (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThrun%2c%20the%20Last%20Troll%5d&quot;&gt;Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt;), there are a few other ways you can deal with them while they are on the stack (none of which are technically countering):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can exile the spell, such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTime%20Stop%5d&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMindbreak%20Trap%5d&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bErtai%27s%5d%2b%5bMeddling%5d&quot;&gt;Ertai&amp;#39;s Meddling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can return the spell to their hand, such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVenser%2c%20Shaper%20Savant%5d&quot;&gt;Venser, Shaper Savant&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can tuck the spell with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCommit%5d&quot;&gt;Commit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can steal the spell with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5b%c3%86thersnatch%5d&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;thersnatch&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCommandeer%5d&quot;&gt;Commandeer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In multiplayer games, defeating a player removes all of that player's spells from the stack.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoor%20to%20Nothingness%5d&quot;&gt;Door to Nothingness&lt;/a&gt; is the ultimate counterspell.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, in the case described in the question about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLast%20Word%5d&quot;&gt;Last Word&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFling%5d&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt;, you could &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTwincast%5d&quot;&gt;Twincast&lt;/a&gt; the Fling, and have a copy that is not countered.  The copy of Fling uses the additional costs paid for the original spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historic Note: before the April 2018 rules change, uncounterable spells like Last Word had wording like &quot;Last Word can't be countered by spells or abilities.&quot;  Rule 608.2b used to have the spell be countered by game rules if all its targets were invalid on resolution.  The only functional difference is for cards that care about what has been countered, notably &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMultani%27s%5d%2b%5bPresence%5d&quot;&gt;Multani&amp;#39;s Presence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. ... The spell or ability is countered if&#xA;  all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now&#xA;  illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T11:09:42.043" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T11:09:42.043" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24145" CreationDate="2015-05-13T00:51:08.950" Score="2" ViewCount="1975" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic: the Gathering has a basic rules PDF, aka the Quick Start Guide, that was instrumental in my understanding the basics of the game (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/12652/5573&quot;&gt;like the stack and spellcasting&lt;/a&gt;). The M15 version is available &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from the Wizards site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite being such a great resource, I've never actually &lt;em&gt;seen&lt;/em&gt; this in the form of a physically printed booklet even once. It explains so much about the game, and if every MtG player had one of these, I bet we wouldn't have half the confused beginner questions we get. I've heard from several sources that M:tG intro decks &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; to come with basic rulebooks, but that's no longer the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zfdqB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Magic the Gathering: Quick Start Guide cover. It features an angry-looking Garruk.&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, the only physical rules printing I've ever seen are these little fold-outs that come in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/arcana/dragons-tarkir-intro-pack-decklists-2015-03-19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;intro packs&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/arcana/dragons-tarkir-packaging-2015-03-02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fat packs&lt;/a&gt;, which are good enough to get you started but skip many vital details:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1yfWG.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;(photo credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VmpQde9yyus&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;youtube&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I live in Australia, I started shortly after M14 was released, and at various points I've opened booster boxes, fat packs, intro decks, and duel decks and been to pre-release events and the M:tG booth at a couple of Penny Arcade Australia Expos. All of that, and I've never seen even one of the Quick Start Guide booklets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So: Where and how do the Basic Rules booklets actually get distributed, if at all? Where would I expect to find or see one in real life?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T15:00:20.310" Title="Where/how does the Magic: the Gathering Quick Start Guide booklet actually get distributed in the physical world?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24138" CreationDate="2015-05-13T03:21:58.153" Score="6" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bettersettlers.com/Generate.html&quot;&gt;Better Settlers&lt;/a&gt; and found that it sets boards that have even probabilities. I would like to understand the algorithm used to generate the board layout, and how it achieves a &quot;fair&quot; setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12561" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T08:54:23.417" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T11:45:04.300" Title="What algorithm does Better Settlers use?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24019" CreationDate="2015-05-13T10:30:57.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unsure about an 'official' list (i.e. from Days of Wonder), however I can list the races and abilities that would not be transfer as well to the other game. Page 10 of the SmallWorld Underground rulebook does offer some general advice if you are aiming to play with SWU races on a SW board or vice versa:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Powers and effects that make no sense (because they were linked to a Terrain type that no longer exists, or because they are linked to Relics or Places when those are not in play) do not apply and must be taken out of the game before start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Where applicable, Powers and effects associated with the Seas and Lake region are transferred to the River Regions and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Last but not least, consider the following Terrain types equivalent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Black Mountain / Mountain Regions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Muddy / Marsh Regions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Mushroom Forest / Forest Regions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Mining / Mine symbol Regions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Mystic Crystal / Magic symbol Regions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a SmallWorld Underground &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=22605&amp;amp;start=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; that covers compatibility&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Redundant or contradictory combos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If useless combos appear, you may replace their Special Power with another one, drawn at random from the Special Powers stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Known useless combos: Frightened Pixies, Immortal Elves, Seafaring Krakens, Tomb Ghouls, Tomb White Ladies, Underworld Spiderines, Vampire Kobolds, Vanishing Ghouls, Vanishing Priestesses, Vanishing White Ladies&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is my own list of Races and Special Powers that cannot be used on the other game's board and why. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Incompatible with SmallWorld&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Races&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All races are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flames:&lt;/strong&gt; Conquer ANY Mountain region as your first conquest with the necessary tokens. The Volcano is then placed in that region. The region with the Volcano is immune to conquest as long as the Flames are active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spiderines:&lt;/strong&gt; Use the Underworld ability rules. Caverns may be conquered with one less token than normal. All regions with a Cavern are considered adjacent.&#xA;  &lt;hr&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Special Powers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Adventurous&lt;/strong&gt; (If not playing with Places and Relics)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Magic&lt;/strong&gt; (If not playing with Places and Relics)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Incompatible with SmallWorld Underground&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Races&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All races are compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Humans:&lt;/strong&gt; The player who picks Humans as a race immediately receives 5 VCs.&#xA;  &lt;hr&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Special Powers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hill&lt;/strong&gt; (There are no Hill regions on the SWU board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mounted&lt;/strong&gt; (There are no Hill or Farmland regions on the SWU board)&#xA;  &lt;hr&gt;&#xA;  The remainder of the races and special powers, from all the Race/Special Power expansions can be transferred on to the SWU board without issue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12628" LastEditorUserId="12628" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T13:46:36.023" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T13:46:36.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24136" CreationDate="2015-05-13T11:45:04.300" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The code for Better Settlers is open-source and can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;http://github.com/andrewflynn/bettersettlers&quot;&gt;github.com/andrewflynn/bettersettlers&lt;/a&gt;. Not the easiest format to read on the algorithm, but hopefully that helps a little bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also to answer Markus' concern above about taking away the tension of setup, Better Settlers still has that same tension (and arguably even more so because it's actually even more difficult to figure out what the best spots are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing that Better Settlers tries to avoid is situations where combinations of starting positions are completely unbalanced. You still have the same pros/cons of placing first vs. last; it's just at the end of it, everyone stands a much better chance of still being in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1351" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T11:45:04.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24141" CreationDate="2015-05-13T11:50:33.133" Score="8" ViewCount="955" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this came up in a game of Commander the other day. Player A has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Purphoros%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Forge&quot;&gt;Purphoros, God of the Forge&lt;/a&gt; in play without the 5 red devotion to make him a creature. They then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tempt%20with%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Tempt with Vengeance&lt;/a&gt;, spending 20 for X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a bid to turn a losing situation into a win Player B casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Comeuppance&quot;&gt;Comeuppance&lt;/a&gt; to prevent the damage and turn it back on player A. Player A responds in kind with their own &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Comeuppance&quot;&gt;Comeuppance&lt;/a&gt; while Purphoros' 20 triggers are still on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell this will cause an infinite loop where the two instances of Comeuppance each prevent and then attempt to re-deal the damage back and forth between A and B, with no exit condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in this case? I was led to believe that causing an infinite loop results in a game loss, but if this is the case, which player is considered responsible for the loop since it required them both to cast Comeuppance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7888" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T17:28:54.360" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T17:28:54.360" Title="The Comeuppance of Commeuppance" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24139" CreationDate="2015-05-13T12:02:10.447" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Purphoros doesn't have enough devotion to make him a creature there is indeed a loop, but it's not a loss for any player, but a draw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;104.4b&lt;/strong&gt; If a game that’s not using the limited range of influence option (including a two-player game) somehow enters a “loop” of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T12:35:02.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T12:35:02.657" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2015-05-13T13:35:51.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put all my ad cards in white, blue, green, red, or black sleeves and put those face down with a dice on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12630" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T13:35:51.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24144" CreationDate="2015-05-13T14:29:11.543" Score="-3" ViewCount="1019" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/24133/6692&quot;&gt;Can uncounterable spells still be countered somehow?&lt;/a&gt;, I am confused by a conflict between two of Magic's rules. At risk of being labelled a duplicate, I want to cover this edge case in more detail than answers to the other questions would, because the other question is very broad. Here's the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLast%20Word%5d&quot;&gt;Last Word&lt;/a&gt; can't be countered by spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the top answer on the aforementioned question, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLast%20Word%5d&quot;&gt;Last Word&lt;/a&gt; can be countered by rule 608.2b if it has no legal targets. This could happen by using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRedirect%5d&quot;&gt;Redirect&lt;/a&gt; to change the target of Last Word to Redirect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b [...] The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is wrong. Last Word can't be countered. The card's text directly conflicts with rule 608.2b. Therefore, rule 101.1 applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card's text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By rule 101.1, Last Word has precedence. It seems like it would not be countered by game rules. Instead, I think it would resolve, and rule 101.3 would apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101.3. Any part of an instruction that's impossible to perform is ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An illegal target can't be countered, and so that instruction would be ignored. That happens to be all that Last Word does, and so the spell would resolve with no effect. The conclusion I arrived at is not the conclusion arrived at in the answer to the other question. It would make a difference if, for example, the spell had other non-targeting effects that were still possible to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does rule 608.2b counter Last Word, and why does rule 101.1 not apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T04:04:26.733" Title="Why does rule 608.2b counter Last Word, when Last Word can't be countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ClosedDate="2015-05-14T04:01:49.150" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24143" CreationDate="2015-05-13T14:36:41.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;608.2b is neither a spell nor an ability, it is a rule of the game, therefore it can counter Last Word. This is why all spells that can't be countered and have targets include the 'by spells or abilities' text, as opposed to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thrun%2C%20the%20Last%20Troll&quot;&gt;Thrun, the Last Troll&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supreme%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt; which do not have targets and thus do not need that additional clause. They just say '~ can't be countered'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it said 'Last Word can't be countered by spells, abilities, or game rules' 101.1 could apply, but it doesn't say that so 101.1 never applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-13T18:26:28.193" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T18:26:28.193" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24135" CreationDate="2015-05-13T16:47:47.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can confirm that these kind of booklets were available up to at least 8th Edition as physical copies: I bought some kind of introduction pack which contained two 40 card theme decks and a quick start guide (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150927122638/http://archive.wizards.com/magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/eighth/productinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;archive.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;, it's the rulebook that's available as a PDF).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far it doesn't look like they're still available as physical copies. My first guess was to look at the Magic 2015 Core Set 'Deck Builder's Toolkit' because according to &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/content/magic-2015-core-set-card-set-archive-products-game-info&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wizards website&lt;/a&gt; it contains:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The support you need to build your own Magic: The Gathering decks. Includes 125 semi-randomized cards suitable for building several different decks, four 15-card booster packs from a variety of recent Magic sets, 100 basic land cards, a deck builder’s guide, &lt;strong&gt;a Magic learn-to-play guide&lt;/strong&gt;, and a card box. (Emphasis mine.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a youtube video (I will link in the first comment, since I don't have enough reputation for more than two links) shows that it's the same 'Rules Reference Booklet' as mentioned in the question, as well as a 'Deck Builder's Toolkit' fold out which I think contains deck building tips. Clash Packs seem to contain similar kind of fold outs (see second video linked in comments). Together with Jefromi's answer it seems unlikely that this rule book is physically available anywhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-09T15:00:20.310" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T15:00:20.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24146" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24148" CreationDate="2015-05-13T20:28:45.443" Score="7" ViewCount="1036" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have an empty battlefield and use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudform&quot;&gt;Cloudform&lt;/a&gt; to manifest the top card of my library. The manifested card is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heliod%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Sun&quot;&gt;Heliod, God of the Sun&lt;/a&gt;. Can I turn this card face up for the mana cost if I do not have enough devotion to white for it to be a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of thumb I've been told is &amp;quot;it's a creature everywhere but on the battlefield&amp;quot; which would seem to indicate you can't, but I know this is a simplification of the relevant rules. If this can be done, what makes it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T04:09:08.983" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:50:07.657" Title="Can I turn a manifested God face up?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24146" CreationDate="2015-05-13T20:43:39.310" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can pay the card's mana cost to turn it face up, because it is a creature card. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Manifest&quot;&gt;rules for Manifest&lt;/a&gt;, specifically 701.31b say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any time you have priority, you may turn a manifested permanent you control face up. This is a special action that doesn't use the stack (see rule 115.2b). To do this, &lt;strong&gt;show all players that the card representing that permanent is a &lt;em&gt;creature card&lt;/em&gt; and what its mana cost is&lt;/strong&gt;, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up. The effect defining its characteristics while it was face down ends, and it regains its normal characteristics. If the card representing that permanent isn't a creature card or doesn't have a mana cost, it can't be turned face up this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as Heliod is face down, just like when it is in another zone, it doesn't have the ability that says it is not a creature, so the card is still a creature card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reminder text for Manifest (from Cloudform) also hints at this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To manifest a card, put it onto the battlefield face down as a 2/2 creature. Turn it face up any time for its mana cost &lt;strong&gt;if it's a creature card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T20:43:39.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24146" CreationDate="2015-05-13T20:47:58.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can turn it face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.31a To manifest a card, turn it face down. It becomes a 2/2 face-down creature card with no text, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost. Put that card onto the battlefield face down. That permanent is a manifested permanent as long as it remains face down. The effect defining its characteristics works while the card is face down and ends when it’s turned face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.31b Any time you have priority, you may turn a manifested permanent you control face up. This is a special action that doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115.2b). To do this, &lt;strong&gt;show all players that the card representing that permanent is a creature card&lt;/strong&gt; and what that card’s mana cost is, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up. The effect defining its characteristics while it was face down ends, and it regains its normal characteristics. (If the card representing that permanent isn’t a creature card or it doesn’t have a mana cost, it can’t be turned face up this way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of the card on the battlefield is no secret. It's almost surely going to be a creature. (&amp;quot;It becomes a 2/2 face-down &lt;strong&gt;creature card&lt;/strong&gt; [...]&amp;quot;). That means &amp;quot;to show all players that the card represents a creature card&amp;quot; clearly refers to the physical card (rather than the game object), so &amp;quot;represents a creature card&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;would be a creature card if outside of the game&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you only look at its type line, and any characteristic-defining abilities that alter its type (since those function everywhere, including outside of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's absolutely no chance that Heliod's second ability has any effect because it's an ability that only functions on the battlefield, and the object on the battlefield has no abilities (&amp;quot;It becomes a 2/2 face-down creature card &lt;strong&gt;with no text&lt;/strong&gt;, [...]&amp;quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you'll lose Clouldform if you turn Heliod face-up without the devotion needed to make it a creature. Clouldform can only legally enchant a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-16T03:50:07.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6108" CreationDate="2015-05-13T22:44:01.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Return to Ravnica provided some new answers to this: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supreme%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-13T22:44:01.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T02:57:46.573" Score="4" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a spell which says &amp;quot;exile target enchantment&amp;quot; such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Erase&quot;&gt;Erase&lt;/a&gt; work on enchantment artifacts? I can not seem to find an answer for this, can you help?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12639" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T04:06:30.257" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:12:00.497" Title="Will spells that exile enchantments also exile enchantment artifacts?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24150" CreationDate="2015-05-14T03:04:46.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, any card that can exile an enchantment can exile an enchantment artifact. This is because an enchantment artifact is both an enchantment as well as an artifact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.2b Some objects have more than one card type (for example, an artifact creature). Such objects satisfy the criteria for any effect that applies to any of their card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this nugget of information buried in the Basic Rulebook, to help illustrate this relationship to new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artifact creatures are both artifacts and creatures. [...]  An artifact creature can be affected by anything that affects artifacts, as well as anything that affects creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trivia: The quoted piece of information was present in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/resources/rules/EN_MTGM14_PrintedRulebook_LR.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M14 Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, but you won't find it anywhere in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M15 Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Erase&quot;&gt;Erase&lt;/a&gt; can exile &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whip%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Whip of Erebos&lt;/a&gt;, because Whip of Erebos is an enchantment, and Erase targets enchantments. Being an artifact does not make this any less true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt; would be affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%2C%20Tomb%20of%20Yawgmoth&quot;&gt;Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth&lt;/a&gt;, because Dryad Arbor is a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dryad Arbor would also be affected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;, because Dryad Arbor is a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Citadel&quot;&gt;Darksteel Citadel&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensoul%20Artifact&quot;&gt;Ensoul Artifact&lt;/a&gt; with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enchanted%20Evening&quot;&gt;Enchanted Evening&lt;/a&gt; in play would be would be affected by anything that affects enchantments, creatures, artifacts, or lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T17:12:00.497" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T17:12:00.497" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24143" CreationDate="2015-05-14T03:51:11.573" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are forgetting two other rules here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.4. A spell or ability that is on the stack is an illegal target for itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;114.6a. If an effect allows a player to &amp;quot;change the target(s)&amp;quot; of a spell or ability, each target can be changed only to another legal target. If a target can't be changed to another legal target, the original target is unchanged, even if the original target is itself illegal by then. If all the targets aren't changed to other legal targets, none of them are changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, Redirect cannot change the target of Last Word to itself because a) a spell can't target itself, and b) even if it could target itself, Last Word cannot be countered and therefore would be an illegal target for itself anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If something else happened like,for example, Last Word was used to counter a spell, then another player uses Dissolve on the same spell (so they can scry 1), then Last Word would have no legal target, you can consider it as resolving, because it cannot be countered, but it would have no effect as the target spell was already countered by a spell placed higher up on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7833" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T04:04:26.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T09:52:05.270" Score="2" ViewCount="54286" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only one black (mine) and one white (opponent's) coin are on the board. (All the other coins and the queen have been pocketed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I pocket my black coin, but accidentally also pocket the striker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who will win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12641" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T13:28:33.210" LastActivityDate="2017-06-22T11:05:39.850" Title="Pocketing the last coin and the striker at the same time" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24154" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T11:34:25.097" Score="6" ViewCount="528397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it within the UNO rules to put a Wild Draw 4 card on top of a Draw 2 card, as it is a 'higher' card?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've ALWAYS played that you can, but my new friend is adamant you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12642" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-02-06T09:51:57.310" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T09:51:57.310" Title="Is putting a Draw 4 card on top of a Draw 2 card legal?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2015-05-14T11:41:10.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play a Wild card on top of &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt;, so long as it's your turn to play. Your friend is crazy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the Wild Draw 4, you should ideally be unable to match the color - it is possible to challenge a Wild Draw 4, and if the person who played it could have played a card to match the color instead (not the number), the person who played it has to draw the 4. If the challenge is wrong, the challenger draws 6 instead of 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T11:41:10.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2015-05-14T14:00:11.570" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;A common Uno variant allows the recipient of a draw 2 to avoid drawing (and being skipped) by playing their own draw 2.  The next player either needs to skip their turn and draw 4 cards, or play their own draw 2.  If they play their own, the next player must either draw 6 cards or continue the sequence.  Some variants allow similar behavior with draw 4 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you're talking about this &quot;stacking&quot; draw cards, you aren't going to be able to get an official answer, because it isn't an official rule.  This would explain why you and your friend are both adamant about it working in different ways.  You're just going to have to come to an agreement on how you will play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what its worth, every place that I've seen this rule described you have to play the exact same card, so you cannot &quot;stack&quot; a draw 4 when receiving a draw 2 in order to make the next player draw 6.  So I expect that is the more common way of playing the variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T14:00:11.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24158" CreationDate="2015-05-14T14:44:08.717" Score="5" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing zombies/robots and near the end game had all of my zapbots in the discard pile. If I use &quot;they're coming to get you&quot; (you may play a minion on this base from your discard pile instead of your hand) can I use zapbot's ability (play another minion of power 2 or less) to play all of my remaining zapbots from the discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12625" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T15:44:48.573" Title="Zombies/Robots, Can you combine they're coming to get you and zapbot?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24157" CreationDate="2015-05-14T15:44:48.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, only one Zapbot can come from the discard pile.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the text &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; unclear, AEG has issued an official ruling on BoardGameGeek, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/11915821#11915821&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It only lets you play a single minion that way, &lt;em&gt;not whenever&lt;/em&gt; you play a minion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, you can make one minion play each turn on the base with &quot;They're Coming to Get You&quot; from the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, playing a Zapbot from your discard still triggers its ability, which would allow you to play additional minions from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T15:44:48.573" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24159" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24209" CreationDate="2015-05-14T17:29:25.160" Score="4" ViewCount="756" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card Clerical Error has the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose a player.  Collect any noble of your choice from that player's&#xA;score pile.  That player then chooses any other noble from your score&#xA;pile and collects it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The noble Robespierre has the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The day ends after you collect this noble.  Discard any nobles&#xA;remaining in line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/217462/offical-guillotine-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this thread&lt;/a&gt; on their interaction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clerical Error would work just fine, but end the day and discard all&#xA;nobles in line if used to get Robespierre from someone else's score&#xA;pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to imply that noble abilities continue to work from the score area, which seems consistent with nobles like the Palace Guards, whose abilities must work from the score area.  So, two-fold question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that if I use Clerical Error to collect someone else's Rival Executioner (&amp;quot;Collect the top noble of the noble deck after you collect this noble&amp;quot;), I get that ability?  (I'm guessing yes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Why doesn't the Master Spy (&amp;quot;After each action card is played, move this card to the end of the line.&amp;quot;) move to the end of the line from your score area if anyone plays an action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To put it differently, what rules framework can we construct for Guillotine about what types of abilities work in what zones of play to get the desired behavior?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-05-16T14:46:56.130" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T14:46:56.130" Title="In Guillotine, do Noble abilities work from the score area?" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24182" CreationDate="2015-05-14T18:09:47.330" Score="4" ViewCount="136" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the rules of the Hare dictates that when he is in or tied for 1st, he doesn't move (naps) when 4 Hare cards are played in the card pool. Once other racers have secured a place on the podium, if the Hare is in the lead among &lt;strong&gt;remaining&lt;/strong&gt; players, should he adhere to napping when 4 cards are played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a strict reading of the rules, we can probably agree that he doesn't nap once he's lost the chance to be first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a game balance perspective, I feel like 18 Hare cards (versus the others' 17, 16, 15 and 15) doesn't quite put the occurrence of 4 Hares frequently enough to cut the edge he has moving two spaces each turn. Sure, Hare moves 2 regardless of how many of 1-4 cards, while Fox moves X cards outright, so you could roughly argue Fox averages 2.5 per card and Hare 2.0 per card, but Hare has 18 v Fox's 15 so moves &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; more frequently at lower cost. If just 4 of Fox's cards are wasted on wolf howls his game is over. From a game balance perspective, I would be ok with making Hare nap anytime he is 1st place among remaining racers. I don't think the likelihood of hitting the 4-card-and-in-first penalty is high and should be an ever-present threat to Hare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a story continuity perspective, the same drive that motivates him to nap when he's in the lead probably doesn't hold once he sees he's already lost the race, so this would argue for no napping once another character finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in opinions and also further analysis on the game balance of the Hare's rules given his card count (18 in the deck). My analysis has just been loose and based on feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T18:19:36.650" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T13:39:47.557" Title="Should the Hare nap when in the lead among remaining racers?" Tags="|hare-and-tortoise|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24161" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24162" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:01:04.277" Score="11" ViewCount="53620" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering, what happens to a player if they get their draw phase, but are unable to draw a card because their library is empty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T01:03:01.987" LastActivityDate="2019-07-29T06:10:39.987" Title="What happens if you are unable to draw because your library is empty?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24161" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:05:39.967" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;They lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;120.4.&lt;/strong&gt; A player who attempts to draw a card from a library with no cards in it loses the game the next time a player would receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;104.3c&lt;/strong&gt; If a player is required to draw more cards than are left in his or her library, he or she draws the remaining cards, and then loses the game the next time a player would receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5b&lt;/strong&gt; If a player attempted to draw a card from a library with no cards in it since the last time state-based actions were checked, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T19:39:15.827" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:13:07.380" Score="2" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt;'s ability and put a dragon card from my library into the grave yard, does that trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Pact&quot;&gt;Grave Pact&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12646" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T19:13:47.233" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T01:01:57.880" Title="Scion of the Ur-Dragon and Grave Pact" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24163" CreationDate="2015-05-14T19:15:45.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Scion puts a dragon card directly from the library into the graveyard. Grave Pact triggers on things moving from the battlefield to a graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the Oracle text on the card has been updated to say 'Whenever a creature you control dies' instead of 'Whenever a creature you control in put into a graveyard from the battlefield', though they mean the same thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;700.4.&lt;/strong&gt; The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T01:01:57.880" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T01:01:57.880" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24159" CreationDate="2015-05-14T20:37:57.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your first question, the answer is yes. All nobles that have effects that trigger on collection would have their effects happen again. &#xA;For your second question I believe that there is typically a 'to the best of your(the cards) ability' with most games. So with Master Spy, he can't move to the end of the line because he is not in the line ... also he had his head cut off, but that's something entirely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11823" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T20:37:57.623" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24184" CreationDate="2015-05-14T20:38:27.977" Score="4" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say &quot;The player's Firefighter has the AP (less the 2AP required for a crew change)....&quot; If I effect a crew change and had Action Markers from unspent AP on my previous turn, do I get to keep those for the new character I am using? The strict literal reading of the rules implies no, and the story aspect reasonably would argue no, but it would certainly help me save victims!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T17:57:22.977" Title="Does the new specialist after a crew change retain saved unspent AP from the previous turn?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24170" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:12:58.100" Score="6" ViewCount="4009" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin, I found the following for running away (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If nobody will help you . . . or if somebody tries to help, and your fellow&#xA;  party members interfere so the two of you still cannot win . . . you must Run&#xA;  Away. You don’t get any levels or Treasure. You don’t even get to Loot the&#xA;  Room. And you don’t always escape unharmed . . .&#xA;  Roll the die. You escape on a 5 or more. Some Class and Race abilities&#xA;  and some Treasures make it easier or harder to Run Away from all&#xA;  monsters. And some monsters give you a bonus or penalty to&#xA;  your roll for that monster only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is not clear to me if you can run away if you would win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you don't have cards on your hand and if you have &quot;die hard&quot; (&quot;Hart im Nehmen&quot; in German; it prevents you from losing your stuff when you die) you might actually want to die. Or if you are forced to help somebody and you can run away easily, you might rather try that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you choose to run away even if you would win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T21:21:56.437" Title="Can you run away without losing against a monster?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24173" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:21:56.343" Score="5" ViewCount="2608" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you have a player who has a two-handed weapon A and another two-handed weapon B. He can use either of them without any problems, but not both as he only has two hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the card &quot;Cheat!&quot; he can use both of them. But now he gets a third card C, also two-handed, which he likes to use against a monster. So for one round he puts A and B in his back-pack (it's still in front of the player, but he does not use A or B, but C). Can the player in one of the following rounds use A and B (together, without C) again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought Cheat! would disable the &quot;checking-mechanism&quot; once, when the card comes into game. After that, when anything else changes something with the card it would have to be discarded again. However, I'm not sure if that makes sense. For example, if you used Cheat! because the weapon is only usable by a thief and you are a blogger, it would seem strange to me if you lose the weapon because you changed to a kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastEditorUserId="7213" LastEditDate="2015-05-14T21:32:53.457" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T13:53:36.463" Title="Does &quot;Cheat!&quot; effectively give you two more hands?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24168" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:21:56.437" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot run away if you are winning with just your equipment. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot;&gt;Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Do I have to kill a monster? Even if I'm winning, can I just choose to Run Away?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A. You can't Run Away if you are winning with what you have in play. However, you are not required to play one-shot cards, negative Monster Enhancers, etc., to beat it, even if you could win handily. So, in that sense, you would be able to choose to Run Away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T21:21:56.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24171" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:26:28.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player takes two factions (deck of cards), for example Pirates and Aliens. Each deck contains minions and actions. The decks are shuffeled to create a combined deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player can play an action and a minion. But none is required. Most minions have additional qualities (except for the T-Rex but this card has powerlevel awesome), some resolve immediately, some have other triggers.&#xA;The minions are played on a base. And each base has a capacity. If the capacity (sum of the powers of the minions played on the base) is reached the base scores. Most bases have an additional effect. The base is removed and a new base is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player to reach 15 points or more, is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fun part of the game is that each faction has abilities that matches your expectation. Zombies keep comming back from the grave, wizard use spells and pirates are quick to get the loot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T22:07:48.487" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:07:48.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24172" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:26:28.893" Score="0" Body="Smash-Up is a card game with pirates, wizards, ninjas, aliens, dinosaur and robots." OwnerUserId="7213" LastEditorUserId="7213" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T00:22:18.743" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T00:22:18.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24169" CreationDate="2015-05-14T21:35:41.670" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play the Cheat card it is attached to a specific item, either A or B in this case (let's assume A). With the additional item C you can use either A &amp;amp; B together or A &amp;amp; C together, but not B &amp;amp; C together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cheat card only is discarded if you lose the item (for example from getting killed) It doesn't get discarded just because you un-equip the card temporarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T21:35:41.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24175" CreationDate="2015-05-14T22:19:50.630" Score="1" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;When fire spreads to spaces outside of the building, how does this affect vehicle movements and usage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do vehicles extinguish fire as they drive over it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are vehicles unable to drive through fires (until they are extinguished). Pretty tough mechanism if so.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do vehicles simply ignore the fire but firefighters on foot do not?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T23:34:25.430" Title="How does fire on sidewalk spaces affect vehicles (outside of the building)" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24174" CreationDate="2015-05-14T23:34:25.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fires spread outdoors and affect firemen/victims accordingly, but are removed at the end of the Advance Fire phase, so they shouldn't have any impact on vehicle movement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-14T23:34:25.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T04:26:29.780" Score="2" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Redirect&quot;&gt;Redirect&lt;/a&gt; my own &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Retract&quot;&gt;Retract&lt;/a&gt; to my opponent with a redirect? I'm just wanting to know before I try it and look dumb. I know you have to have a valid target for a Redirect but Retract targets me, a player, so I don't see why I can't Redirect to another player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12649" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T04:45:08.503" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T06:19:45.723" Title="Can I Redirect a Retract to affect my opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24176" CreationDate="2015-05-15T04:44:09.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Redirect only allows you to change a spell's targets. Retract does not target; it just affects you. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Target&quot;&gt;Rule 114.1a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An instant or sorcery spell is targeted &lt;strong&gt;if its spell ability identifies something it will affect by using the phrase &quot;target [something],&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; where the &quot;something&quot; is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone. The target(s) are chosen as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. (If an activated or triggered ability of an instant or sorcery uses the word target, that ability is targeted, but the spell is not.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Retract doesn't use the phrase &quot;target [something]&quot; so it does not target and cannot be affected by Redirect. If you did cast Redirect targeting Retract, it would give you the chance to choose new targets, but since Retract has no targets, it wouldn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T06:19:45.723" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T06:19:45.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24178" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T05:36:20.507" Score="3" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one of these two cards are attached to an investigator, is it no longer an investigator? (not talking about the powers the investigator has)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. if Madness is attached to Pickman, is it still an investigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Madness&lt;/strong&gt;: You cannot win if you have this unless conditions say otherwise. If you have any Investigator Keeps in play, you must choose one to attach this to. Any special powers of the Keeper become ignored. Both cards stay together until discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pickman&lt;/strong&gt;: ???&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12650" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T18:21:50.157" Title="Cthulhu flux metamorphosis/ madness clarification" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24179" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-15T09:18:09.327" Score="2" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for example: I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krenko%2C%20Mob%20Boss&quot;&gt;Krenko, Mob Boss&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thornbite%20Staff&quot;&gt;Thornbite Staff&lt;/a&gt; equipped. He is targeted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;. In response I tap Krenko to make 1 Goblin token. I also have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Bombardment&quot;&gt;Goblin Bombardment&lt;/a&gt; to sacrifice the token. Can I sacrifice the token after it has been made to untap Krenko and make more tokens before Doom Blade resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12651" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-15T12:51:14.153" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T12:51:14.153" Title="can you activate abilities during a resolving stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24179" CreationDate="2015-05-15T09:25:30.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that works. You can activate the enchantment ability as an instant, just like you activated Krenko Mob Boss's ability. Do note that your opponent does get an opportunity to respond as each of the individual effects on the stack resolves, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T09:25:30.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24179" CreationDate="2015-05-15T12:32:01.470" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're trying to determine which of two possible models is the real one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all players pass priority in succession, then every spell/ability on the stack resolves, with no further opportunities to respond until it is empty. If this is the real model, then you &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; sacrifice the goblin token to Goblin Bombardment before Doom Blade resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all players pass priority in succession, then only the top spell/ability on the stack resolves, and players may continue to respond to spells/abilities remaining on the stack. If this is the real model, then you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; sacrifice the goblin token to Goblin Bombardment before Doom Blade resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which is the real model? &lt;strong&gt;It's the second one&lt;/strong&gt;. Items on the stack resolve one at a time, rather than all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b. The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With these in mind, the play-by-play goes like this. I'm assuming it's your opponent's turn, but this only matters for order of priority. The outcome would be the same otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's your opponent's turn, so he is the active player. He casts Doom Blade targeting Krenko.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Doom Blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent passes priority to you. You activate Krenko's tap ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Doom Blade, Krenko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority. Your opponent passes priority. The top spell/ability on the stack resolves. You receive one goblin token.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Doom Blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent passes priority. You activate Goblin Bombardment, sacrificing a goblin and choosing a target. Krenko's &quot;untap me&quot; ability triggers and goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Doom Blade, Goblin Bombardment, Krenko's untap ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;5&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority. Your opponent passes priority. The top spell/ability on the stack resolves. Krenko untaps.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Doom Blade, Goblin Bombardment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent passes priority. You pass priority. The top spell/ability on the stack resolves. Goblin Bombardment deals one damage to whatever you targeted.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stack: Doom Blade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent passes priority to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you can pass priority, letting Doom Blade resolve and destroy Krenko. Or you can go back to step 2 and make another goblin token. In fact, you could repeat the loop as many times as you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is all assuming that your opponent has no more plays to make after Doom Blade. He could play additional spells and abilities any time during this process where it says &quot;Your opponent passes priority&quot;. For instance, if he plays a second Doom Blade on Krenko during step 3, then your infinite damage combo will be foiled)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T12:32:01.470" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24160" CreationDate="2015-05-15T13:39:47.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you are right that the hare moves more frequently than the other animals, its up to the players not betting on the hare to win to make sure to not let someone just play 1 card per turn, (as this would be the most effective way to win with the hare). If you are playing with new people you will see that this is a clear tale on when someone is betting on the hare.&#xA;Usually when this happen all the players not betting on the hare(assuming there is no other player betting on it) can easily horde hare cards and only play them when there will 4 on the board, or when a howl is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one has willingly picked the hare the game has a total of 76 cards(since each player bets 5 cards out of the deck), and out of those 18 are hare.  Now each player holds 6 cards so the chances that a player has a hare card is 23% this is almost guarantees that the non betting players will have a combined total of 4 hare cards. Since they aren't betting on the hare to win then if played correctly they should be able to throw away 4 cards at least in one turn. Combined with the howling wolfs cards this means that you can at least throw away 7 cards at minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you assume all players are betting on the hare (including the guy who is dealt the hare) the card total goes from 18 to 13. The more ppl bet on the same animal the less chance that animal has to win statistically, but since more ppl are going for it, it will most likely move more often. (If everyone is going for the hare no one will play more than one hare per turn as there is no benefit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall the game is very well balanced i have played this game probably over 200 times now, (this is a great game to play with anyone, and my friends and family love playing this game for how simple it is to pick up but how hard it is to master) and the outcome of the game now comes down to being able to read what each person is betting on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opps forgot to copy and paste the paragraph on answering the question, I interpret the rules as only when the hare is First place (or tie since technically they are tie for first place), so how can the hare be in first place if someone already won the race, and you are racing for second, and third? This is my interpretation and I have found out that this does not make the hare place second automatically. I would not make the hare sleep as I feel that it would significantly lower its chances of even placing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I pointed out earlier its fairly easy at the beginning to tell what people are betting on if they do the optimal play every turn so this game starts turning more into a meta game of how people play rather than people doing the optimal play because when you end up losing 4 cards of your animal it becomes basically impossible to win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would most more statistics on the game but I'm at work currently and this response has gone on longer than it should already(I will try to update it with more numbers on how things play out assuming you have 5 players because with less players the game starts to become more about getting lucky to draw the right cards at the right time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T13:39:47.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24167" CreationDate="2015-05-15T17:57:22.977" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, the strict literal reading of the rules says &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; (keep them).  Everything in the general section (p4) says the AP saved applies to &quot;the player&quot; not the Firefighter.  Nothing I read in the crew change rules negates this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2015-05-15T17:57:22.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24186" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24187" CreationDate="2015-05-15T20:55:40.173" Score="24" ViewCount="4485" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are at a Competitive REL tournament. With ten minutes left on the clock in game three, my opponent is at 5000 life. I control two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elite%20Arcanist&quot;&gt;Elite Arcanist&lt;/a&gt;s. Each of them have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; exiled. I also control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Subversion&quot;&gt;Subversion&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subversion triggers and resolves (my opponent loses one life)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I activate Elite Arcanist and end my turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I activate the other Elite Arcanist and end my opponent's turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I demonstrate this loop to my opponent and offer to shortcut 5000 iterations. My opponent asks me to play it out. If I comply, the game will certainly end in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I call a judge and force my opponent to accept the shortcut unless he has an action to take?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:31:55.290" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T14:52:06.717" Title="Can my opponent force me to play out a demonstrated loop?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24186" CreationDate="2015-05-15T21:09:38.240" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can't refuse a shortcut&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;; they can merely shorten it by naming a place where they will deviate from the shortcut. The game then advances to that point, and they &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; take a different action than the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.2b Each other player, in turn order starting after the player who suggested the shortcut, may either accept the proposed sequence, or shorten it by naming a place where he or she will make a game choice that’s different than what’s been proposed. (The player doesn’t need to specify at this time what the new choice will be.) This place becomes the new ending point of the proposed sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.2c Once the last player has either accepted or shortened the shortcut proposal, the shortcut is taken. The game advances to the last proposed ending point, with all game choices contained in the shortcut proposal having been taken. If the shortcut was shortened from the original proposal, &lt;strong&gt;the player who now has priority must make a different game choice than what was originally proposed for that player.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What you should do:&lt;/strong&gt; After your opponent refuses the shortcut, ask at what point of the shortcut they would like to do something different. If they refuse to name one, call for a judge as they are refusing to take a mandatory action. If they name one, they gain priority. If they don't do anything different than your shortcut had proposed, call for a judge as they just violated 716.2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Obviously, they can refuse a shortcut if it's illegal. For example, they could refuse the shortcut by pointing a point at which the complete game state would no longer be known&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T14:52:06.717" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24178" CreationDate="2015-05-16T01:17:18.627" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;He's still an investigator.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you attach a Creeper to a Keeper that is also an Investigator, it doesn't suddenly stop being an Investigator. There are two reasons for this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Investigator is an icon, not a special power, so Madness does not remove it. (Attaching a Creeper to something with Doom icons doesn't remove those Doom icons, either.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just because they're stark raving mad doesn't mean they've stopped investigating or stopped being human. (Unless the Creeper is Metamorphosis. But even then, they're still an investigative... being.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;special powers&quot; are the ones printed on the card in addition to the standard Keeper text, like the power that the Federal Agents have to discard any Creeper by discarding themselves from play. So the Federal Agents can't discard themselves to remove the Madness that they've been afflicted with (regardless of how appropriate that would be).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T18:21:50.157" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T18:21:50.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T04:54:59.463" Score="6" ViewCount="1556" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing SAYC, you open 1 Minor. Left passes and partner bids 1 Major. How do you figure out if partner has 4 carder major or 5 carder?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if left overcalls, then partner can use a negative double to indicate  he has a 4 carder or bid 1 Major to show a 5 carder. But otherwise, is there any convention to figure this out?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastEditorUserId="3196" LastEditDate="2015-05-16T07:08:13.583" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T23:22:44.820" Title="Bidding: How to figure out if responder has 4 carder or 5 carder major?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24211" CreationDate="2015-05-16T07:55:17.703" Score="3" ViewCount="2828" Body="&lt;p&gt;By ability bonus, I mean any quality of an asset at all, not just the &quot;+N&quot; to an attribute. My question centers around how to compound effects on assets. The quick reference explains that weapon &quot;Gain +N to &quot; bonuses do not compound and that you simply pick the strongest one. Does this mean any non-weapon &quot;+&quot; bonus does compound, i.e. from items and allies for instance? Some example questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have 3 assets that each grant +1 to an attribute, do I have +3 (in addition to my best weapon &quot;+&quot; bonus?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I have 3 assets that each say I can reroll a die, do I get 3 rerolls?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there any other clear case aside from the weapon &quot;+&quot; bonus to attributes where assets are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; compounded?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T05:43:44.080" Title="Can all all ability bonuses aside from weapons &quot;+&quot; effects be stacked?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24189" CreationDate="2015-05-16T14:38:00.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general no, there is no convention to convey this information because it is not (yet) important enough to warrant co-opting a call sequence. The subsequent auction will enable the partners to first determine if an 8-card fit exists, then whether either notrump is a suitable contract, or notrump is unsuitable but only 7-card fits are available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opener will show 4-card support eagerly (either by an immediate raise or a delayed jump raise) so that Responder will know there is an 8-card fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If forced by Responder to make a preference then Opener's minimum return to Responder's will be assumed to show only 2 card support. This will often be passed unless Responder has unrevealed strength to compensate for the lack of fit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Opener returns freely to Responder's first suit then this &lt;em&gt;delayed&lt;/em&gt; support shows three cards. At this point Responder holding 5 can indicate this by passing, inviting game, or jumping to game depending on his knowledge of the combined partnership assets. If Responder holds only 4 cards then a choice must be made to play in a Moysian fit of the major; in notrump; or in some other suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An essential point to note in these auctions is that the &lt;em&gt;beginner's rush to rebid a 5-card suit&lt;/em&gt; is a terrible habit, and to be avoided whenever possible. Fast rebids of a suit should be reserved for showing 6-card holdings, so that partner can freely raise to show 2, revealing the 8-card fit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AN exception to the above exists when Opener rebids 1 Notrump. Many partnerships will play some variation on &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stayman_convention#Checkback_Stayman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Check-Back Stayman&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_minor_forcing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New Minor Forcing&lt;/a&gt; to then explore major suit fits in more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; - as noted below in a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;by &quot;fast rebid&quot; is meant &quot;at the next round of bidding.&quot; The tempo of the rebid itself, slow or fast, cannot legally (or ethically) be taken into account by partner!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T23:22:44.820" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T23:22:44.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24194" CreationDate="2015-05-16T18:16:24.577" Score="5" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could the good people of Stack Exchange settle an argument - &quot;not so recent girl band&quot; was used as a description for Girls Aloud. Does the fact girl is a word in both the clue and the question violate the rules, or is the fact it's clearly meant more generally in the clue (e.g. it could have just as easily been Sugababes) mean it's ok? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12663" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T13:39:44.773" Title="In Articulate would using Girl Band as the description for Girls Aloud violate the rules" Tags="|taboo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-16T22:04:55.293" Score="6" ViewCount="938" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I play Twilight Struggle. She likes playing as USSR. I'm a bit better at the game, which leads to a frustrating situation where I win most of the games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any generally accepted thoughts on altering the starting conditions to better favour the USSR player, balancing our relative skill levels?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12664" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T01:17:19.977" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T07:33:50.203" Title="How can we adjust starting conditions in Twilight Struggle to favour the USSR?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24192" CreationDate="2015-05-17T00:25:54.790" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you may not give that clue. It's the word, not the exact meaning, that is disallowed. The example given in the Taboo rules is that if &quot;baseball&quot; is part of the answer then you may not use &quot;base&quot; or &quot;ball&quot; - and both of those words have much broader meanings than just their baseball meanings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastEditorUserId="7912" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T13:39:44.773" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T13:39:44.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T00:57:50.817" Score="5" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to learn Go.  I learned the rules a few years back, but there is a mindset that the game rewards.  I want to try to capture that mindset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read many Go books, but they are static.  They certainly have a place in my plan for learning go, but they are not everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I intend to play in the online Go communities, and that is where my question is focused.  What is the best way to practice Go in a competitive community?  Obviously I can play on varying board sizes and try to constantly win while they try to win, but is there a better way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play Starcraft 2, and follow the advice of Day[9].  He recommends practice games where one focuses on a particular aspect of the game (such as being observant, never slowing down your economy, or constantly attacking).  This focus allows one to practice small aspects of the game independently, then put them together when you actually wish to perform (as opposed to practice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there recommended ways to practice Go in this sense?  I am looking for the kind of practice approaches which may hurt my chances of winning but increase the likelihood that I learn something.  I have less use for practice techniques that are dependent on a willing partner, for most of my partners I expect will be out to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12667" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T16:50:36.153" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T16:50:36.153" Title="Good Go practices for a beginner?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24196" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T04:09:16.580" Score="1" ViewCount="2618" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently discovered for the first time a variation of Solitaire called Hanoi (sometimes spelled Hanoy or Hanoii). My Solitaire app says it's rated easy, but I have never solved it because I only get so far before I get stuck. Is there a simple strategy I can employ to finally start winning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6965" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:37:48.703" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T08:37:48.703" Title="What is the optimal strategy to solve Hanoi Solitaire?" Tags="|solitaire|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="36839" CreationDate="2015-05-17T06:58:03.247" Score="6" ViewCount="755" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording of the rules states that you must either peruse/buy the souvenirs or buy a legendary object, but what if you cannot afford the remaining legendary objects? To the letter of the rules, it would imply that you must only choose this option if you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; buy a legendary object, so players should determine what's in the pile of unbought items (easily done) before making that an option. More hand-wavey, we could argue if someone mistakenly doesn't realize he can't afford any of the remaining items, then chooses to buy a legendary object and picks up the remaining cards, he simply is barred from buying anything or resorting to the souvenir option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to lean toward the more forgiving option which is if a player can't afford anything, he just goes to the souvenir shop especially since the list of cards is public info obtained simply by looking at the players' holdings which are exposed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T16:09:02.680" LastActivityDate="2017-07-16T00:13:21.890" Title="Are you required to buy items when you choose the Legendary Object options at the village?" Tags="|tokaido|tokaido-crossroads|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24195" CreationDate="2015-05-17T10:50:07.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is what I do and I think it works quite well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;play games - review them afterwards&#xA;If you don't review your games you wont learn as much since a bad move in go can have consequences many moves later and you probably won't pick it up during the game&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a stronger player review your game (if you can) this helps a lot (try not arguing with them too much especially if they are much stronger than you)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play go varieties like single colour go on 9x9 it helps a lot to improve your &#xA;reading without looking at the board&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Learn joseki fuseki tesuji do life and death, this is probably a bit dull and boring but it helps :D, you might just do the joseki you saw in the last game and see if you cold done anything better, maybe you can review a group you killed? was it actually dead?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;watch other people play at your local go club if you have one or online, there are multiple streamers and yt channels with lectures and games with commentary I watch these: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/dwyrin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dwyrin&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/nicksibicky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nick Sibicky&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTji1kQNoWIH85dB_Vxka9g&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Haylee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11663" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:05:24.687" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:05:24.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24074" CreationDate="2015-05-17T11:13:18.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two other expansions in the first arc (&lt;em&gt;Brink of War&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Rebel vs Imperium&lt;/em&gt; come with a few additional components that allow the Robot to use starting worlds from those expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no official rules for the robot for playing with the &lt;em&gt;Alien Artifacts&lt;/em&gt; expansion, however there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/103929/solitaire-game-alien-artifacts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;non-official rules&lt;/a&gt; available on Boardgamegeeks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12522" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T11:13:18.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32110" CreationDate="2015-05-17T15:26:29.373" Score="14" ViewCount="13988" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what is the technically highest score one can achieve in Seven Wonders (with Cities and Leaders) in a 3+ player game, considering all players are working with the performer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone heard of an algorithm that calculates that, or some information about it? I've tried get out my head around it but there are SO MANY parameters that I'm almost tempted to brute-force this solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any ideas or information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12668" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T21:19:59.467" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T04:35:14.627" Title="Technically highest 7 Wonders score" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24207" CreationDate="2015-05-17T15:57:09.737" Score="5" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering how well Takenoko plays with 2 players. What is the main problems only playing with 2, if any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T10:56:20.343" Title="Does Takenoko work as a 2 player game?" Tags="|takenoko|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24292" CreationDate="2015-05-17T16:03:07.867" Score="1" ViewCount="4943" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see Tokaido accomodates from 2 to 5 players. I am wondering wether there is aspects to the game that is problematic or less entertaining with only 2 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastEditorUserId="11924" LastEditDate="2015-05-17T16:21:53.633" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T15:18:56.933" Title="Does anyone have experience playing Tokaido with only 2 players?" Tags="|tokaido|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-17T21:15:16.787" Score="8" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;So me and a buddy of mine got into a argument: he had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Setessan%20Battle%20Priest&quot;&gt;Setessan Battle Priest&lt;/a&gt; out which has heroic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell that targets Setessan Battle Priest, you gain 2 life&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then he played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turn%20to%20Frog&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt;, which takes all abilities away and makes it a 1/1 Blue Frog until end of turn. He said he gained two life because Heroic triggers from the spell. I said that it took away the ability so it doesn't activate. Who was right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12671" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T01:29:40.523" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T16:39:07.830" Title="Will Heroic trigger if a spell would cause the creature to lose all abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-heroic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23397" CreationDate="2015-05-17T21:19:13.803" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 706.4 was originally created as rule 503.4, and seems to have appeared between 1999 and 2001 - I haven't found any copies of rules between those two. (The renumbering happened in the July 11, 2009 rules update, which renumbered basically all the rules.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a really good idea when the rule you're looking for was introduced, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/rules-changes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yawgatog's rules changes page&lt;/a&gt; (linked in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/23398/409&quot;&gt;murgatroid's answer&lt;/a&gt;) is great - for example, if you're looking for Bestow, just click on Theros and you'll see it among all the cleanly-presented diffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a good keyword to search for, you can try this &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/forum/faqs-and-reference/threads/1154021&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules history forum thread&lt;/a&gt;, which summarizes past rule changes. For example, you can quickly find infect under Scars of Mirrodin. Unfortunately this page only goes up to 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing those easy solutions, you can just binary search over past versions of the comprehensive rules, linked below.  Note that you can also do some smarter things - for example, you can download them all (and clean them up), and look for the pair where the diff matches what you're looking for. (I did this by making a git repository with a commit for each version of the rules, then using pickaxe search.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Past comprehensive rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Wizards only links to the most recent version of the rules, all the old rules are still being served. I managed to find what looks like most of them since 1999.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These links currently all work, and given how old they are, it seems likely that they'll keep working - but should they ever break, archive.org should have crawled all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all plaintext, except some in 2014, because Wizards only linked to docx and pdf versions then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/generic/official/Rulings/archive/rules042399.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1999-04-23&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/oracle/MagicComPrules_072301.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2001-07-23&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/oracle/MagicComPrules_092401.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2001-09-24&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/oracle/MagicCompRules_022002.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2002-02-20&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/dci/oracle/MagicCompRules_100702.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2002-10-07&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_031503.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2003-03-15&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_070103.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2003-07-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules100103.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2003-10-01&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules120103.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2003-12-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules020104.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2004-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules060104.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2004-06-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules041001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2004-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules050201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2005-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules050801.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2005-08-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules051001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2005-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules060201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules060501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules060715.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006-07-15&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules061001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2006-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules070201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules070501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules070713.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007-07-13&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules070907.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007-09-07&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules071001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2007-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules080201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules080501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules080715.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008-07-15&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules081001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules090201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules090501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20090708.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009-07-11&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20090904.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009-09-04&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20091005.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2009-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20100201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20100423.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010-04-23&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20100618.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010-06-18&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20100716.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010-07-16&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20101001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110204.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011-02-04&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110401.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011-04-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110617.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011-06-17&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110715.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011-07-15&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20110930.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011-09-30&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120501.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120601.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012-06-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20120701.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012-07-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/comprules/MagicCompRules_20121001.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2012-10-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013-02-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130429.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013-05-01&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130711.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013-07-13&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20130927.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013-09-27&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20131101.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2013-11-01&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140201.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014-02-01&lt;/a&gt; 2014-05-01 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140501.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140501.docx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;docx&lt;/a&gt;) 2014-06-01 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140601.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140601.docx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;docx&lt;/a&gt;) 2014-07-18 (&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140718.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pdf&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_20140718.docx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;docx&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/downloads/MagicCompRules_20140926.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2014-09-26&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150123.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2015-01-23&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150327.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2015-03-27&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150717.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2015-07-17&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150926.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2015-09-26&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2016/docs/MagicCompRules_01162016.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2016-01-16&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2016/docs/MagicCompRules_04082016.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2016-04-08&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For rules older than this, I couldn't find anything in a similar format. It looks like 1999 was the first time Wizards actually published clean plaintext rules like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, archive.org has &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990429151022/http://www.wizards.com/Magic/MTG_Rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a copy of the rules page as of April 1999&lt;/a&gt;. There are several links there, including the &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990429041350/http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Fifth_Ed_Rulebook/Welcome.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;base Fifth Edition rules&lt;/a&gt;, in a frame-based view (kind of tough to use, but it works), as well as the updates for &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990429174759/http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Mirage_Rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mirage&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990430040224/http://www.wizards.com/Magic/Tempest_Rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tempest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990430053228/http://www.wizards.com/Magic/UZ_Rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Urza's Saga&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/19990428185658/http://www.wizards.com/Magic/6E_Letter.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sixth Edition&lt;/a&gt;. With all of those taken together, you'd end up with the same rules as in the text-format rules from April 1999 linked above, but since they're split, you can see what was added in each step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:08:08.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24203" CreationDate="2015-05-17T21:28:35.610" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Heroic does trigger in that situation, and he does gain the 2 life. This is because Heroic triggers when you &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; the spell, before it resolves and has any effects. Basically, it plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts Turn to Frog targeting his Setessan Battle Priest. The Priest's Heroic ability triggers. Now there are two objects on the stack: the Heroic ability is on top of the Turn to Frog spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Heroic ability resolves, and your opponent gains 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn to Frog resolves and the Priest loses all of its abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings on Setessan Battle Priest's Gatherer page also mention this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heroic abilities will resolve before the spell that caused them to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T16:39:07.830" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T16:39:07.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24263" CreationDate="2015-05-17T22:59:35.973" Score="0" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Deep Dwarve's Summoning Surge event card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you may remove up to 3 cards from your Discard Pile and place them on top of your Magic Pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Illusionary Warrior event says this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose a common Unit that is in your Magic Pile. Place the chose Unit adjacent to a Deep Dwarf Champion or Gem Mage that you control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this second event card, the cards that go into the magic pile may have a certain level of significance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When you play the Summoning Surge event card, does the event card go into your Discard Pile first before adding 3 cards from the Discard to the Magic, OR do you take the 3 cards and THEN place the event card in the discard pile?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T14:29:51.490" Title="Summoning Surge: do you put the event card in the discard before taking event action?" Tags="|summoner-wars|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24201" CreationDate="2015-05-17T23:45:11.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as the rules go the only difference is that the end of the game is triggered by one person completing 9 objective cards as opposed to 7 and 8 with 3 or 4 players respectively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Takenoko works great as a 2 player game, there isn't much difference between the player counts. In fact, the game might be slightly less random with less people, but luck still plays a large role either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-05-17T23:45:11.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24202" CreationDate="2015-05-18T00:33:58.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two-player rules for Tokaido include a &quot;dummy&quot; player, i.e. you play with 3 travellers, but the third one is neutral, moved by whoever is currently in the lead, and is only used for blocking spaces and having some effect on Temple scoring and food choices at inns. This changes the strategy space of the game somewhat (since there is now a small benefit to being further ahead on the road, and the neutral traveller doesn't move to his own benefit but to one player's dis-benefit). Whether that makes the game more or less entertaining is presumably a matter of taste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T00:33:58.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24159" CreationDate="2015-05-18T03:59:05.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Part 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do get an extra noble from the deck when taking someone else's Rival Executioner with Clerical Error.  If that collected noble has a &quot;when you collect&quot; ability, it will trigger as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rationale:&lt;/strong&gt; Based on the ruling regarding Robespierre, we can conclude that nobles with a &quot;when you collect&quot; ability trigger when that noble is collected, no matter what method.  This includes during the phase of the turn when you collect the first noble in line, the card Clerical Error, the Fast Noble, the Rival Executioner.  This does not include the card After You, which reads &quot;Put the noble at the front of the line into another player's score pile.&quot;  Only and all abilities with the specific word &quot;collect&quot; trigger &quot;when you collect&quot; abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Part 2&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strict interpretation of the Master Spy seems to indicate he should move to the back of the line from the score area.  The action cards that manipulate an arbitrary noble all have text saying explicitly that they only modify nobles in line, while the Master Spy's ability does not.  For example, Public Demand has the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move any noble &lt;strong&gt;in line&lt;/strong&gt; to the front of the line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fled to England has the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard any noble &lt;strong&gt;in line&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the Master Spy simply says to move him to the back of the line, with no restriction that he must be in line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only proper defense for the Master Spy not moving to the line from the score area is that the word &quot;move&quot; only applies to nobles in line.  The extra &lt;strong&gt;in line&lt;/strong&gt; clause on Public Demand is an extraneous clarification.  The actions that cause cards to change zones never say &quot;move&quot;.  They say &quot;place&quot; if the noble is coming from the score area or &quot;add&quot; if it is coming from the deck.  Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose a player. That player must &lt;strong&gt;place&lt;/strong&gt; the last noble he or she collected at the end of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra Cart:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Add&lt;/strong&gt; 3 nobles from the noble deck to the end of the line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, the Master Spy only moves to the end of the line while he is in line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Credit to Gregor for some of the reasoning here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T03:59:05.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24195" CreationDate="2015-05-18T07:46:25.630" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things to add to kruczy's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with the 9x9 board to master basic tactics fast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once you are comfortable on 9x9 advance to 13x13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After a few dozens of games on 13x13 try the full 19x19 board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the beginning, life and death problems help you a lot (and even later, the art of life and death never ends!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tesuji come next&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't look to deep in opening theory before reaching a rank of at least 10 kyu. Start with basic Joseki for the 4-4 point then.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specialise. With this, I mean, try out patterns that work for you. Stick with patterns that win your games, try something different for loosing patterns.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Learn about openings like San-Ren-Sei or the Chinese Opening&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, when a local Go club is available, join it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T07:46:25.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24190" CreationDate="2015-05-18T10:46:59.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) +N bonuses do not compound. From rules (Section Additional Rules - Tests p.12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator can use only one card effect that provides a skill&#xA;  bonus during each test (for example, an Asset that reads “Gain&#xA;  +1 [”). If he has multiple card effects that provide a bonus, he&#xA;  uses the highest bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ally is an asset just like a weapon, so having +1 to Strength from an ally and a +1 to Strength from a gun will result you in having a +1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Yes. From reference guide (Section Reroll): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple effects allow an investigator to reroll a die, he may&#xA;  resolve each effect separately. There is no limit to the number of&#xA;  times a die or test can be rerolled, so long as the investigator has&#xA;  the means to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastEditorUserId="6827" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T05:43:44.080" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T05:43:44.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24213" CreationDate="2015-05-18T16:57:40.433" Score="3" ViewCount="2572" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vexing%20Devil&quot;&gt;Vexing Devil&lt;/a&gt; which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Vexing Devil enters the battlefield, any opponent may have it deal 4 damage to him or her. If a player does, sacrifice Vexing Devil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does this sacrifice happen? Is he able to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collateral%20Damage&quot;&gt;Collateral Damage&lt;/a&gt; on the Vexing Devil before the sacrifice resolves? My current interpretation is that the sacrifice resolves instantly on entering the battlefield so the creature is never there to use Collateral Damage on, but we wanted to verify that this was correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T23:51:06.047" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T23:51:06.047" Title="When does a sacrifice on entering the battlefield happen?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2015-05-18T17:05:22.280" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do have a chance to cast Collateral Damage. Vexing Devil's ability is a triggered ability, so the ability goes on the stack when the creature enters the battlefield, and you can respond to it before it resolves. You can tell that it's a triggered ability by &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;rule 603.1&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Trigger condition], [effect],&quot; and begin with the word &quot;when,&quot; &quot;whenever,&quot; or &quot;at.&quot; They can also be expressed as &quot;&lt;strong&gt;[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how it plays out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Vexing Devil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vexing Devil resolves and enters the battlefield. Its ability triggers and goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Collateral Damage and sacrifice Vexing Devil.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collateral Damage resolves, and deals 3 damage to something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vexing Devil's ability resolves. At this point, your opponent can choose whether or not to take the 4 damage. If they do choose to take the damage, you would sacrifice the Vexing Devil, but it is already dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is no time to respond during step 5. Once an opponent chooses to take damage, the damage is dealt and you make the sacrifice without doing anything in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T18:30:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:30:49.990" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2015-05-18T17:05:56.307" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happens during the resolution of the ability. Here is what happens in detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vexing%20Devil&quot;&gt;Vexing Devil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vexing Devil resolves. His ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You and your opponent have the opportunity to cast instants and activate abilities. This is your absolute last chance to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collateral%20Damage&quot;&gt;Collateral Damage&lt;/a&gt; before the trigger resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trigger resolves. Your opponent makes a choice. If your opponent chooses to take four damage, Vexing Devil is sacrificed. All of this happens during the resolution of the triggered ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no point after your opponent makes the choice but before you sacrifice Vexing Devil where you could cast Collateral Damage. You can only cast spells when you have priority, and no player gets priority during the resolution of an ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;If you do [...]&amp;quot; clause is not a separate triggered ability. If it was, it would start with &amp;quot;When&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;Whenever&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;At&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T18:38:42.183" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:38:42.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24212" CreationDate="2015-05-18T17:10:01.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vexing Devil's ability is a triggered ability that happens when it enters the battlefield, and goes on the stack like any other enters the battlefield trigger. No choices are made at all until the ability starts to resolve, at this point you can choose to take 4 damage and the Devil will get sacrificed or not take the damage and it sticks around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent uses Collateral Damage before the Devil's ability resolves the Devil will be sacrificed and you will take 3 damage. If they choose to do this there is no reason for you to take 4 damage from the Devil's ability (removing the Devil from the battlefield before the ability resolves don't stop it from happening, it just makes it so the Devil doesn't get sacrificed if you take 4 damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no time during the resolution of the ability (like after you take 4 damage but before the Devil is sacrificed) where anyone has the ability to respond with any spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best your opponent can do is wait to see if you take the 4 from the Devil, then if you don't cast Collateral Damage and sacrifice the Devil to that. So they can deal either 3 or 4 damage, never 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T18:38:02.873" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T18:38:02.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24218" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:03:13.333" Score="1" ViewCount="14006" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a card has text: &lt;code&gt;target creature fights (another creature)&lt;/code&gt;, do I have to tap the target creature? &#xA;Can I target a creature, that has summoning sickness this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T19:39:21.947" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:39:21.947" Title="Do I tap a creature when it fights? Can a creature with summoning sickness fight?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24216" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:10:33.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fighting doesn't require tapping, and it doesn't care if one of the creatures has summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While fighting has some similarities to combat (namely 2 creatures deal damage to each other equal to their power) it is not actually combat, so things that are required for combat (like tapping to attack and not having summoning sickness) are not required for fighting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10a&lt;/strong&gt; A spell or ability may instruct a creature to fight another creature or it may instruct two creatures to fight each other. Each of those creatures deals damage equal to its power to the other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10d&lt;/strong&gt; The damage dealt when a creature fights isn’t combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:10:33.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24216" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:14:39.247" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you don't tap the creature; even tapped creatures can fight. If you had an instant fight card you could use it during combat as a combat trick. Summoning sickness only effects combat, and tap abilities; fight cards can certainly target a creature with summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules from the comprehensive rule book:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10. Fight&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10a A spell or ability may instruct a creature to fight another creature or it may instruct two creatures to fight each other. Each of those creatures deals damage equal to its power to the other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10b If a creature instructed to fight is no longer on the battlefield or is no longer a creature, no damage is dealt. If a creature is an illegal target for a resolving spell or ability that instructs it to fight, no damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10c If a creature fights itself, it deals damage equal to its power to itself twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.10d The damage dealt when a creature fights isn’t combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also relevant, since it isn't combat damage, first strike doesn't do anything, but abilities like lifelink, or deathtouch do work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:14:39.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24005" CreationDate="2015-05-18T19:54:39.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course. Warhammer (especially with house rules) is all about figuring out what you can do. Alliances are common, and you can find an alliance matrix in the rule book. More than 3 armies in anything below 1750 pts. (about £400 worth of models) is nigh on impossible, but only if you play by the GW rules. If you wanted to play in tournaments, then you would have to make sure to structure your list well (High Elves and Dark Elves are mortal enemies, so would not be on the same side, for example), but in a friendly home battle, anything is possible! Unlikely alliances give you the chance to make some really great backstory though, so most tournaments would accept heavy alliance lists if the backstory was good. I'm glad you're getting into the hobby, and I'm sure you'll enjoy it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12679" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T19:54:39.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2015-05-18T20:00:27.543" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this sounds simple and slightly low-tech, but setting up a board with proxied models and emailing turns is always a good way to play. I am working on something to simulate games, and am going to try and get it published with Games Workshop, but even if that does work, it won't be as good as actually having the table set up in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12679" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T20:00:27.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24221" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-18T21:41:30.727" Score="2" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Magus%20of%20the%20Arena&quot;&gt;Magus of the Arena&lt;/a&gt;, and my opponent and I each control other creatures. Magus of the Arena's ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{3}, {T}: Tap target creature you control and target creature of an opponent's choice he or she controls. Those creatures fight each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the following sequence of actions on my part legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I declare that I am activating the Magus's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I choose one of my creatures as a target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent chooses one of their creatures as a target. Specifically, it is a creature I did not want to fight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I say &amp;quot;I decline to tap my lands for mana&amp;quot; since step 601.2f, only says that I have a &lt;em&gt;chance&lt;/em&gt; to activate mana abilies, and not that I must do so. Then I say &amp;quot;I do not have enough mana to pay for the spell&amp;quot; (in step 601.2g).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, according, to step 717, we back out of activating the ability, and do something else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to follow the letter of the rules, but it also seems to violate the spirit of the card in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-18T21:51:14.843" LastActivityDate="2015-05-18T21:51:14.843" Title="Can I back out of activating an ability where my opponent chooses the target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-05-18T22:53:45.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2015-05-19T00:19:46.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I try to get a rock wheat intersection. I find I win more often if I can get cities up fast. Then I collect double on the good middle numbers as opposed to expanding to less desirable numbers. A harbor with a couple of good sources is good too. One good source is not enough as the other players can keep the robber on it if you are ahead and they work agaisnt you. A good brick wood intersection is more important  on a more crowded board, 4 players, to grab up space at the beginning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12681" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T00:19:46.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24224" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24228" CreationDate="2015-05-19T00:47:37.940" Score="12" ViewCount="923" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/comment/47532501#comment-47532501&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Wizards forum thread&lt;/a&gt; had an interesting question that was left unanswered.  If I have only two black mana available, can I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fatal%20Lore&quot;&gt;Fatal Lore&lt;/a&gt; if my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellwild%20Ouphe&quot;&gt;Spellwild Ouphe&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield?  The issue is it is a legal play only if my opponent chooses the destroy creatures option (since I could target the Ouphe, making it cost two lest to cast).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T01:05:40.573" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T08:18:57.457" Title="Can I cast a spell if I might be able to pay its cost but don't know yet?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24224" CreationDate="2015-05-19T01:07:28.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to cast it. When you declare that you want to cast it, you don't yet know whether it will be possible to pay, but it &lt;strong&gt;could&lt;/strong&gt; be possible, depending on your opponent's choice. If your opponent chooses that you draw 3 cards, you won't be able to continue casting it. But if your opponent chooses the destruction mode, then you will be able to finish casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't make sense to prevent you from attempting to cast the spell simply because it's possible that you will fail to cast it, if it is also possible that you will be able to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T01:07:28.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24227" CreationDate="2015-05-19T01:22:31.360" Score="6" ViewCount="38773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I looked around on the internet for a list of blue counterspells in Magic: the Gathering that can be played for no mana. (Alternative costs or a mana cost &lt;em&gt;later&lt;/em&gt; is fine.) Does anyone have a list or know where to find a list?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T08:34:11.557" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T22:51:16.483" Title="List of blue counterspells that can be played for free?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24226" CreationDate="2015-05-19T01:25:14.600" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 8 &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=%28o%3A%22rather+than+pay+%7E%27s+mana+cost%22+or+o%3A%22you+may+cast+this+spell+without+paying+its+mana+cost%22%29+o%3Acounter+c%3Au&amp;amp;unique=cards&amp;amp;as=grid&amp;amp;order=name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blue counterspells that can be cast for alternate costs&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Admiral%27s%20Order&quot;&gt;Admiral&amp;#39;s Order&lt;/a&gt; (The alternate cost still costs {U})&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daze&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disrupting%20Shoal&quot;&gt;Disrupting Shoal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fierce%20Guardianship&quot;&gt;Fierce Guardianship&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Foil&quot;&gt;Foil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Negation&quot;&gt;Force of Negation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Will&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thwart&quot;&gt;Thwart&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found these with the following search on &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scryfall&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(o:&amp;quot;rather than pay ~'s mana cost&amp;quot; or o:&amp;quot;you may cast this spell without paying its mana cost&amp;quot;) o:counter c:u&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This searches for spells with alternative costs (first clause) with &amp;quot;counter&amp;quot; in the text (second clause) that are blue (third clause).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mental%20Misstep&quot;&gt;Mental Misstep&lt;/a&gt; only costs {UP}, so you can pay life instead of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you also want to count spells with mana that needs to be paid later, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pact%20of%20Negation&quot;&gt;Pact of Negation&lt;/a&gt; has a mana cost of {0}, but it also says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your next upkeep, pay {3}{U}{U}. If you don't, you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, there are &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3Atarget+o%3Aspell+-o%3Acounter+o%3A%22rather+than+pay+%7E%27s+mana+cost%22+c%3Au&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;3 spells&lt;/a&gt; that can be used to &lt;em&gt;effectively&lt;/em&gt; counter a spell that can be cast without paying any mana:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Commandeer&quot;&gt;Commandeer&lt;/a&gt; lets you take control of a spell and change its targets. You can choose a target that is (more) beneficial to you, or, if the other spell is a counterspell, you can redirect it to target Commandeer so that it is countered for having an illegal target after Commandeer leaves the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindbreak%20Trap&quot;&gt;Mindbreak Trap&lt;/a&gt; lets you exile any number of spells, but you can only cast it for free if your opponent has cast at least 3 spells this turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Misdirection&quot;&gt;Misdirection&lt;/a&gt; also lets you choose new targets for a spell. Of course, it is only useful for dealing with targeted spells, and you can use it to deal with counterspells the same way you can use Commandeer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2022-09-15T22:51:16.483" LastActivityDate="2022-09-15T22:51:16.483" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24224" CreationDate="2015-05-19T01:27:54.063" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it is a legal play under some outcomes of the process of casting it, it is a legal play.  If your opponent chooses the mode where you draw cards, it will become an illegal spell and the game will be reverted to the state it was in before you began casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The precedent for this comes from a card specific ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Selvala%2C%20Explorer%20Returned&quot;&gt;Selvala, Explorer Returned&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you activate Selvala’s ability while casting a spell, and you&#xA;discover you can't produce enough mana to pay that spell’s costs, the&#xA;spell is reversed. The spell returns to whatever zone you were casting&#xA;it from. You may reverse other mana abilities you activated while&#xA;casting the spell, but Selvala’s ability can't be reversed. Whatever&#xA;mana that ability produced will be in your mana pool and each player&#xA;will have drawn a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, we can tell that you are allowed to cast spells you might be able to pay for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Hackworth and various members on the forum point out, the rules do not explicitly prevent you from attempting to cast spells you have no way of paying for in any circumstance, but doing so doesn't ever help you.  At best, it reveals a card in your hand with no other consequence.  At worst, it could get you disqualified in a tournament for repeat offenses of slow play or cheating (if you are attempting to cast an illegal spell to make an opponent reveal information in their reaction).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T16:00:14.900" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T16:00:14.900" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2015-05-19T03:51:26.887" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I consider these in the following order, mostly because those listed first are more obvious and easier to assess:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resources production rates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;spacing / room to expand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;resource conversion potential at ports (trading with the bank)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;dependence of strategies on trading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sizing up opponent&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding up the dots on the dice roll chips to get an idea of the production rates of a given vertex is like a non-committal first pass to see what spaces are immediately viable. You need to have a very pointed strategy in mind to deviate from going for these high probability spots for your initial placement simply because you're not likely to get much to pick from by the time you place your second settlement. Naturally, playing a 2-player game allows more flexibility than if you're in a 4-player game and first to place.  The point is simply that the further away your turn is for your next placement the more heavily you should weight simply looking at production rates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, eyeing certain ports because they give an exchange rate with the same resource that they border can offer a place to settle that others might disregard or overlook. Again, however, placing your &lt;em&gt;initial&lt;/em&gt; settlement here is probably not worth it in my opinion if it risks giving up a high production rate vertex.  Being any player other than the last to place the initial settlement puts you at least two placements away from your next opportunity on a pretty small board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider what resources you can imagine you'll end up securing based on your first move.  As first of four players, this can be difficult and you likely should simply play the highest production rate vertex. As third of four, you might get a good idea 50%+ of the time what you may end up securing, so can consider what strategy you might use and how much it depends on trading with other players.  Do you expect to have a resource that is particularly low in production probability (and thus less worry over not having particular resources on your own settlements)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Size up the personality of your opponents.  Are they straight forward by the numbers, or wild vengeful spouses who delight in attacking their partner, or meek and easily convinced. How do they perceive you? If you are the resident veteran, you might take some of the heat off of the likelihood of your opponents ganging up on you by completely forgoing the obvious best placement in favor of having solid arguments why another player is always 'in the lead'.  You might take a strategy that is more transparent if players are always suspecting you and avoid placements that lean toward development cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering your opponents' tendencies is the most underutilized (and the most fun when you get it right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T03:51:26.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24193" CreationDate="2015-05-19T04:02:48.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard way to balance the game (However, usually towards the US), is to give the player some number of influence they can place anywhere they already have influence at the start of the game. I think this works slightly better for the US, since they can often add it to Iran, making a coup that much harder, or add a couple to France and try to score Europe quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the advantage you want, I would suggest trying something like give her Iran to start instead, which would basically act as a 100% successful turn 1 coup. This way it's not a totally unfair or out-of-band start, it's more just forcing her to have good luck at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12390" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T04:02:48.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24193" CreationDate="2015-05-19T08:20:36.753" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and a friend of mine play this a lot and we had to explain it a bit to a new player, so we also had to give the USSR an advantage because it would be first time player against a veteran.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We found that there are three ways to make this a bit more fair:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the USSR more starting influence to divide (this can be in Eastern Europe or in any other continent)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the USSR some starting points, that way America has to accumulate more points to win the game, I think that 5 or 3 is fair but you can choose that for yourself&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the first headline phase: USSR plays a card and America doesn't, this can give the USSR an advantage if they have good cards so it's a gamble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;EDIT&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You could also give the USSR player a partial mulligan, discard the cards he doesn't want and let him pull that many new cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastEditorUserId="12685" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T07:33:50.203" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T07:33:50.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T14:14:35.607" Score="4" ViewCount="9205" Body="&lt;p&gt;My buddy uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dromoka%20Dunecaster&quot;&gt;Dromoka Dunecaster&lt;/a&gt; to tap my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humble%20Defector&quot;&gt;Humble Defector&lt;/a&gt;.  Can I in response activate Humble Defector's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12686" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T14:26:35.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T11:37:40.587" Title="Can I tap a creature in response to it being tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2015-05-19T14:18:51.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, if it is your turn, Humble Defector’s ability can be activated any time, including in response to a spell or ability. Dromoka Dunecaster's ability is put on stack, you have the opportunity to respond and use Humble Defector’s ability, tapping it to pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T14:18:51.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24234" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-19T14:21:40.657" Score="0" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there creatures, artifacts, enchantments, etc that will make &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enduring%20Scalelord&quot;&gt;Enduring Scalelord&lt;/a&gt; go infinite in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Bant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bant&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm building a Bant counters EDH deck and it'd be fun to have ES blow up in a couple of different ways. I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitor%20Mimic&quot;&gt;Progenitor Mimic&lt;/a&gt; in the deck and I know ES would also benefit from the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archangel%20of%20Thune&quot;&gt;Archangel of Thune&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spike%20Feeder&quot;&gt;Spike Feeder&lt;/a&gt; combo.  I'm blanking on anything else that wouldn't just stop at 1 trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12687" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T15:26:05.213" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T23:30:34.873" Title="Are there any other spells in bant colors that will cause Enduring Scalelord to go infinite?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24232" CreationDate="2015-05-19T14:47:57.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't respond to &amp;quot;being tapped&amp;quot;; you can only respond to spells being cast and abilities being activated or triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's what you have here. Your opponent activated Dromoka Dunecaster's ability, after which you both get a chance to cast instants and activate abilities in response (i.e. before it resolves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are free to activate Humble Defector's ability at this time&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. Having been placed on the stack last, it will resolve first. When it resolves, it will have you draw two cards and then give your opponent control of Humble Defector.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Dromoka Dunecaster's ability then resolves, it does nothing&lt;sup&gt;[CR 609.3]&lt;/sup&gt; since a permanent that's tapped can't be tapped&lt;sup&gt;[CR 701.17a]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it's your turn, due to the limitation imposed by the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Technically, your opponent gets first dibs since it's their ability to which you are responding&lt;sup&gt;[CR 601.2h]&lt;/sup&gt;. That said, in a tournament setting, it's assumed that a player passes when they get priority in response to casting an spell or placing an ability on the stack unless they explicitly retain priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;609.3. If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.17a [...] Only untapped permanents can be tapped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T04:03:08.377" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24234" CreationDate="2015-05-19T15:21:29.330" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cackling%20Counterpart&quot;&gt;Cackling Counterpart&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battlegrowth&quot;&gt;Battlegrowth&lt;/a&gt; are in Bant colors and combo with Enduring Scalelord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can you teach me how to search for cards myself?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Introducing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Advanced.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer's advanced search feature&lt;/a&gt;. We know that Enduring Scalelord goes infinite with itself. Let's try to find a clone in Bant colors. Here is what I started with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does NOT contain Black&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does NOT contain Red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules Text:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does contain &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does contain &amp;quot;target creature&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tons of results. Let's try narrowing it down. Instants are nice if they are cheap, so let's see if we can find one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card Type:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does contain Instant&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still a lot of false positives. I notice a lot of &amp;quot;copy target spell&amp;quot; cards. We don't want those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules Text:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does not contain &amp;quot;spell&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22copy%22%5D+%5B%22target%20creature%22%5D+!%5Bspell%5D&amp;amp;type=+%5B%22Instant%22%5D&amp;amp;color=+!%5BR%5D+!%5BB%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here is the final result&lt;/a&gt;. The top four cards are all three mana instant speed spells that can copy your Enduring Scalelord. Nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I repeated this process to find Battlegrowth, but I'll leave the exact search as an exercise for you. Learning how to mine the Gatherer is far more valuable being handed a list of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T00:35:52.507" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T00:35:52.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24239" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:13:30.167" Score="6" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wirefly%20Hive&quot;&gt;Wirefly Hive&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Filigree%20Sages&quot;&gt;Filigree Sages&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Forge&quot;&gt;Darksteel Forge&lt;/a&gt;, and some means of making an arbitrarily large amount of mana. My opponent is at two million life, and there are ten minutes remaining on the clock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I activate Wirefly Hive's regular ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability resolves and I flip a coin&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I win, I get a Wirefly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I activate Filigree Sage's ability targeting Wirefly Hive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability resolves and Wirefly Hive untaps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I demonstrate my ability to make an arbitrarily large number of Wireflies. I also demonstrate my ability to make an arbitrarily large amount of mana. My opponent understands, but we call a judge anyway to ask if shortcut is legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the judge allow me to shortcut making a million Wireflies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.1a says that as long as both players understand the intent, I can use any &amp;quot;shortcut system&amp;quot; I want. My opponent understands my intent (to keep flipping coins until I make a million Wireflies), and so the shortcut is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for taking shortcuts are largely unformalized. As long as each player in the game understands the intent of each other player, any shortcut system they use is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.2a says that I cannot shortcut a loop with &amp;quot;unpredictable results&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;conditional actions&amp;quot;. My loop contains conditional actions, so I cannot shortcut it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a nonrepetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns. It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T19:32:50.080" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T22:33:38.393" Title="Can I shortcut a loop with conditional actions?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24238" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:23:13.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This loop definitely includes conditional actions, because when you have 999,999 Wireflies, when activate the ability and it resolves, you make the following choice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the ability created a Wirefly, you stop&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, you flip again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 101.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &quot;can't&quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the restriction in 716.2a overrides the allowance in 716.1a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, if you assume that 716.1a effectively allows any shortcut that both players agree to, then the restrictions in 716.2a don't really make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T19:41:33.657" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:41:33.657" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24238" CreationDate="2015-05-19T19:30:55.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The judge will not allow you to do this for 3 reasons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When one rule says you can do something and another says you can the can't rule wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.2.&lt;/strong&gt; When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can’t happen, the “can’t” effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting a loop requires &lt;em&gt;&quot;predictable results of the sequence of choices.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; since you have no way of stating how many iteration of the loop it will take to get your desired result, or what the game state will be after N iterations (you could have anywhere from 0 to N tokens) it is not predictable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Related to #2, according to the MTR you need to be clear about what the board state will be after any number of priority passes. You don't know what the game state will be like after any number of priority passes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MTR 4.2&lt;/strong&gt; Most tournament shortcuts involve&#xA;  skipping one or more priority passes to the mutual understanding of all players; if a player wishes to demonstrate&#xA;  or use a new tournament shortcut entailing any number of priority passes, he or she must be clear where the game&#xA;  state will end up as part of the request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-05-19T19:49:55.510" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T19:49:55.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24238" CreationDate="2015-05-19T20:40:22.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the answer depends on a few things.  First is how technical the judge wants to be with the rules.  As you cited above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game&#xA;  event determines the next action a player takes. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The coin flip is a conditional action.  You win, you get a Wirefly.  You lose, you don't.  That also determines, to some degree, how many iterations the loop takes to get to a million Wireflies.  For some people, that may be one million iterations, for others, around two million.  For people with luck like mine, the loop may never terminate.  In any case, we can safely say that once this loop of all legal actions terminates, the board state will be that everything is as it was when you started plus one million Wireflies for you.  If the judge wants to be hyper-technical, you cannot do this, because of the conditional action.  If he wants to follow the spirit of the rule, I believe this is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what if your loop has side effects?  Consider the scenario where you control a fictitious card that has the following effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever an artifact you control is untapped, put a +1/+1 counter on&#xA;  each creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many +1/+1 counters does your Filigree Sages have on it?  Unless you can specify exactly how many times the loop executes for you to get to a million Wireflies you cannot accurately tell me what the board state will be when the shortcut is over.  At this point the shortcut is illegal because you don't know what the game is like when you are done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I realize the card I used in the example is made up, but any side effect that causes an unknowable board state could cause this.  For example, if your mana engine has a side effect every time it runs, what is the board state at the end of the shortcut?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T20:40:22.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24251" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:02:10.933" Score="2" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules has a separate passage for replenishing cages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one of the two cage-buying action spaces is&#xA;  blocked by a neutral imp, you deal only 1 new cage, leaving one pit empty. Apparently, the neutral imp took one cage before you could get there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This rule seems to assume that the board starts with one cage and 2 open slots every round: replenish one, leave one open.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if the board starts with any other number of cages? We had rounds starting with both 3 and 2 cages. In these cages we would possibly not replenish? Or even remove a cage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastEditorUserId="11924" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T12:07:54.053" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T12:43:22.900" Title="Dungeon petz 2 or 3 player game: how many cages should be replenished?" Tags="|dungeon-petz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24247" CreationDate="2015-05-19T22:43:09.987" Score="5" ViewCount="3519" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing the North American 1993 version of Secret Mission Risk, which player is the winner when 2 missions are simultaneously achieved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: If your mission is, “Conquer Asia &amp;amp; Africa” and you have just one more territory to conquer to complete your mission, let’s say Madagascar which also has the last red troop on the map while another player has the mission “Destroy all Red Troops”, who wins when the last red troop dies and Madagascar is captured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the other player holding the mission “Destroy all Red Troops” win as the red troop died before Madagascar was occupied? Does the player holding the mission “Conquer Asia &amp;amp; Africa” win as that player was the contributor to the final action accomplishing both missions? Would this game be considered a tie as both missions where accomplished simultaneously? Would the winner be the first to reveal their mission?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="10" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T20:00:13.390" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T12:03:32.330" Title="In Secret Misson Risk which player is the winner when 2 missions are simultaneously achieved?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24245" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24246" CreationDate="2015-05-19T23:05:10.903" Score="3" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I cast a spell or activate an ability, or a triggered ability triggers, it goes on the stack, and then some time later, it resolves. Is it still on the stack while it is resolving? If not, is it some other zone or somewhere else entirely? If it's a spell, when does it go to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T23:05:10.903" Title="What zone is a spell or ability in when it is resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24245" CreationDate="2015-05-19T23:05:10.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A spell or ability stays &lt;strong&gt;on the stack&lt;/strong&gt; starting from when you started casting or activating it until it &lt;strong&gt;fails to resolve&lt;/strong&gt;, it has &lt;strong&gt;finished resolving&lt;/strong&gt;, or it instructs you to move it to a different zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 601&lt;/a&gt; covers the step for casting a spell, and the very first step (601.2a) says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player announces that he or she is casting the spell. &lt;strong&gt;That card (or that copy of a card) moves from where it is to the stack&lt;/strong&gt;. It becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has all the characteristics of the card (or the copy of a card) associated with it, and that player becomes its controller. The spell remains on the stack until it's countered, it resolves, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are similar steps for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Activating an Activated Ability&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Handling a Triggered Ability&lt;/a&gt;. The process of dealing with the stack continues with &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 608.1&lt;/a&gt;, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time all players pass in succession, the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves. (See rule 609, &quot;Effects.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is no instruction for the spell or ability to leave the stack when it starts resolving. Then the relevant parts of the instructions for resolving the ability say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2.&lt;/strong&gt; If the object that's resolving is an instant spell, a sorcery spell, or an ability, its resolution may involve several steps. The steps described in rules 608.2a and 608.2b are followed first. The steps described in rules 608.2c–j are then followed as appropriate, in no specific order. &lt;strong&gt;The step described in rule 608.2k is followed last.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2a&lt;/strong&gt; If a triggered ability has an intervening &quot;if&quot; clause, it checks whether the clause's condition is true. &lt;strong&gt;If it isn't, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing.&lt;/strong&gt; Otherwise, it continues to resolve. See rule 603.4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. [...] &lt;strong&gt;The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &quot;target,&quot; are now illegal.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2j&lt;/strong&gt; If an instant spell, sorcery spell, or ability that can legally resolve leaves the stack once it starts to resolve, it will continue to resolve fully.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2k&lt;/strong&gt; As the final part of an instant or sorcery spell's resolution, the spell is put into its owner's graveyard. &lt;strong&gt;As the final part of an ability's resolution, the ability is removed from the stack and ceases to exist.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference regarding rule 608.2b quoted above, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Counter_(keyword_action)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 701.5a&lt;/a&gt; describes what &quot;counter&quot; means, and says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, &lt;strong&gt;removing it from the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, every instance of a rule instructing that a spell or ability be removed from the stack either comes when it is done resolving or is accompanied by an instruction that it does not resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, abilities that are removed from the stack simply cease to exist, and spells that are removed from the stack go to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-19T23:05:10.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24244" CreationDate="2015-05-20T02:20:49.767" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/risk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who completes his or her mission first-and reveals the Mission&#xA;  card to prove it-wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules make no mention of ordering, or of only being able to win at a specific time. If both players achieve a mission at &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same time, and both reveal their completed missions, then they have both fulfilled the win condition. You could assign a single winner in any arbitrary manner, but personally I'd say they both win; after all, does victory have to be exclusive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra note:&lt;/strong&gt; regarding the timing of defeating the final army and capturing a territory, the rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As soon as you defeat the last opposing army on a territory, you capture that territory and must occupy it immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the rules don't specifically set out timing, I'd say that the &quot;&lt;em&gt;as soon as&lt;/em&gt;&quot; and &quot;&lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt;&quot; mean that capturing a territory happens at the same moment as defeating the last army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T12:03:32.330" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T12:03:32.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24248" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:49:25.590" Score="3" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about Magic The Gathering. What happens if both players perpetually decide to do nothing in a turn, except draw and then discard to 7. What happens then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:59:52.217" Title="What happens if neither player decides to do anything?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24248" CreationDate="2015-05-20T10:59:52.217" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most likely outcome is that one player loses when he has no more cards to draw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3c If a player is required to draw more cards than are left in his or her library, he or she draws the remaining cards, and then loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other possible outcome is a draw during a tournament game with time limit, though a player will likely run out of cards before they reach the limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T10:59:52.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24250" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24256" CreationDate="2015-05-20T12:18:30.760" Score="5" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;De Vermis Mysteriis&quot; card seems very strong. The card does not have any rules for discarding after use. Is it really possible to keep it an improve a skill round after round? Combined with some sort of sanity replenishment it seems almost too strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4cecv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;De Vermis Mysteriis&amp;quot; Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T15:05:10.473" Title="Can I use &quot;De Vermis Mysteriis&quot; every round?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24243" CreationDate="2015-05-20T12:43:22.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first two sentences of that section still apply, and state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At least one cage will be left over from the previous round. Take the&#xA;  lowest of the leftover cages, put it in the uppermost pit and discard&#xA;  the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't possible for all 3 cages to be purchased in a turn, so at least one will always be there.  Keep the lowest, move it to the upper slot, and get rid of the rest.  That way you are guaranteed to always have a single slot filled.  Then you either deal 2 more, or only 1 more if a neutral imp is blocking a space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T12:43:22.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24206" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:16:12.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/59058/summoner-wars-faq-13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ version 1.3&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: What happens if 2 powers trigger at the same time?&#xA;  A: The player whose turn it is determines in which order the Special Abilities will be resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems since this happens on your turn, you can choose the order that is most benificial for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T14:16:12.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24257" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:48:02.773" Score="4" ViewCount="1330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to know the effects of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thran%20Lens&quot;&gt;Thran Lens&lt;/a&gt; on a devotion-dependent enchantment creature, like a god or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read somewhere that, when a permanent becomes colorless, the Thran Lens makes the 'cost symbols' turn into 'colorless'. With this in mind, if I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heliod%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Sun&quot;&gt;Heliod, God of the Sun&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield will he ever be a creature while Thran Lens is on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12700" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T05:43:26.687" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:23:49.540" Title="Effect of &quot;Thran Lens&quot; on Devotion" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24253" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:57:24.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the Thran Lens does is make permanents colorless, it doesn't change their casting costs at all. Devotion counts the number of colored mana symbols in a permanents casting cost, it doesn't care what color the permanent is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your Heliod will animate just fine even is everything on the battlefield is colorless assuming there are enough white mana symbols among the permanents you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;700.5.&lt;/strong&gt; A player’s devotion to [color] is equal to the number of mana symbols of that color among the mana costs of permanents that player controls. A player’s devotion to [color 1] and [color 2] is equal to the number of mana symbols among the mana costs of permanents that player controls that are [color 1], [color 2], or both colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T14:57:24.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24253" CreationDate="2015-05-20T14:59:04.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thran Lens or other color-changing effects have no effect on Devotion.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.5. A player’s devotion to [color] is equal to the number of mana symbols of that color among the mana costs of permanents that player controls. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mana symbols in a card's mana cost determine the card's color, but not the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;105.3. Effects may change an object’s color or give a color to a colorless object. If an effect gives an object a new color, the new color replaces all previous colors the object had (unless the effect said the object became that color “in addition” to its other colors). Effects may also make a colored object become colorless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above rule covers everything about changing an object's color. Note that it does not say anything about mana symbols being changed, so nothing like that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-05-20T15:07:54.947" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T15:07:54.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24250" CreationDate="2015-05-20T15:05:10.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: Note, you can only improve each stat a total of two times (thus there's only +1/+2 tokens).  You also cannot perform the same action in a round (so can only use the item once a round).  This is also balanced by the check, which you may not pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes you can spend 10 rounds maxing out your guys stats (if you roll well/pass the checks), but likely you'll need to rest as well, so you've basically spent 10-11 rounds doing nothing if you do that.  Since the difficulty of the game is dependant upon the # of players and things happen every round, taking this action especially repeatedly actually makes the game MORE difficult for your team (in my opinion, it'd be better to have no player playing doing this for 10 rounds and the game be easier than to have a player doing this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my limited experience with this game, if you have 10 rounds to sit around doing this, you probably need to find a harder game for yourself (or you're being carried);)  I have not had such a luxury in multiple play attempts.  I have had this item and recall using it when my health is down but my sanity is not and I'm going to rest anyway or when I have a skill I want to bump to try and forward the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T15:05:10.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24253" CreationDate="2015-05-20T15:11:04.147" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana cost and color are two completely separate characteristics. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thran%20Lens&quot;&gt;Thran Lens&lt;/a&gt; only modifies the color, not the mana cost, and so Thran Lens has no effect on devotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Devotion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.5. A player’s devotion to [color] is equal to the number of mana symbols of that color among the mana costs of permanents that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mana Cost&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.1. A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Color&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2. An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2f Effects may change an object’s color, give a color to a colorless object, or make a colored object become colorless&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T21:23:49.540" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T21:23:49.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24259" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24269" CreationDate="2015-05-20T16:25:38.053" Score="10" ViewCount="7354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard Eldritch Horror described as a &quot;streamlined Arkham Horror&quot;, as if the makers of AH considered how to make a faster, more accessible successor.  Having played and enjoyed Eldritch Horror, I would like to ask someone to give a comparison between the two that might give me an idea what to expect if I were to try AH. The comparison could include thoughts on why EH is better, why AH is better, what each do that the other does not, simple examples, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T13:45:26.767" Title="Complexity of Eldritch Horror versus Arkham Horror" Tags="|arkham-horror|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24261" CreationDate="2015-05-20T19:50:06.273" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Rex Lazax ally advantage allows Lazax player to give influence to an ally before she makes a legal bid on a strategy card. The tricky point which prompted questions when we played is: &lt;em&gt;is the ally required to have sufficient amount of influence to make a bid &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; Lazax gives him some&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;E.g.: Sol is allied with Lazax but has no influence, so he cannot make a bid by himself. Can he receive influence from Lazax in such situation to make a bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="399" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:24:31.743" Title="Lazax ally advantage conditions" Tags="|rex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24260" CreationDate="2015-05-20T20:24:31.743" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ally does not need to have enough to make the bid before the transfer, as long as the ally has enough to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook indicates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Lazax may give his ally any amount of influence during this&#xA;  Bidding Phase. This influence must be given before the player makes a&#xA;  legal bid on the current Strategy card.  The ally&#xA;  is not required to bid all of the influence given&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note the implication that the ally is very much allowed to bid influence that has just been given.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, in the rules for bidding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bid:&lt;/strong&gt; If a player wishes to bid, he announces how much influence he is&#xA;  willing to pay for the card. ... A player cannot bid more influence&#xA;  than he has in his reserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transfer from the Lazax comes before the player makes the bid, and the requirement is only that the player has enough to cover the bid at the time the player makes the bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, Sol would be able to receive influence from Lazax and then subsequently make a bit with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-20T20:24:31.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24206" CreationDate="2015-05-20T21:05:28.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/summoner-wars/rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 17:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the effects from 2 Special Abilities or Event Cards ever trigger at the &#xA;  exact same time, the player whose turn it is determines in which order &#xA;  those effects will resolve.  Likewise if an attack ever Hits multiple Units &#xA;  at once the attacker chooses in which order they are Hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since it is &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; Event phase, you choose the order of event cards you played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At page 7 of the rulebook, you also read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Event Cards are played 1 at a time and are resolved immediately. &#xA;  After playing an Event Card, place that card face-up in your Discard &#xA;  Pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when resolving Summoning Surge, you remove the 3 cards from your discard pile, place them in your magic pile, then discard the Summoning Surge. After that you resolve the Illusionary Warrior, maybe (probably, I guess) picking one of the 3 cards you just added to your magic pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6518" LastEditorUserId="6518" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T14:29:51.490" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T14:29:51.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24273" CreationDate="2015-05-21T03:58:05.317" Score="5" ViewCount="283" Body="&lt;p&gt;The runner card &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Titanium%20Ribs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titanium Ribs&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You choose the card(s) from your grip to trash whenever you take damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corp card &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chronos Protocol: Selective Mind-mapping&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the first net damage the Runner suffers each turn, you may look at the &#xA;  Runner's grip and select the card that is trashed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the runner has an installed Titanium Ribs while playing against Chronos Protocol and takes a single net damage (the first of a turn), which player chooses the card that is discarded?  Also does the corp get to look at the runner's grip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="990" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:22:40.360" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:22:40.360" Title="Which of two conflicting abilities takes precedence?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24271" CreationDate="2015-05-21T05:24:26.223" Score="3" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tournament rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players who drop during limited events own the cards that they&#xA;  correctly have in their possession at that time. This includes any&#xA;  unopened or partially drafted boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that if, in a sanctioned draft, I open a booster pack with two mythic rares (one in the foil slot), I can immediately drop and keep both (in addition to any cards I have already drafted)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer depends on the Rules Enforcement Level, please explain how it differs at each level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T18:05:54.153" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T18:05:54.153" Title="Dropping from a sanctioned event mid-draft" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24265" CreationDate="2015-05-21T07:55:46.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of the time - yes, you keep what you drafted (any unopened boosters included). However, some stores may have a different approach to distribution of rares and such - they might be distributed randomly, or winners get to choose first from the pool etc. From a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12799/what-should-i-know-before-my-first-mtg-draft&quot;&gt;related question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Make sure you know the policy on rares - will rares be re-drafted at the end? Do you keep all rares you draft? Is it a 'winner-chooses' system? Most of the time you'll keep what you draft, but not always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T07:55:46.447" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24458" CreationDate="2015-05-21T07:56:30.927" Score="7" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I play a lot of Twilight Struggle and we have a lot of fun with it. The thing is we only reach the late war 1 in 5 times so far.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how it is supposed to go or are we doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After an answer:&#xA;USSR and USA both win equal amount of times.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Every ending of the game is because of victory points&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastEditorUserId="12685" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T07:40:41.313" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:01:23.653" Title="Twilight Struggle, Longer game" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24259" CreationDate="2015-05-21T09:29:03.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the differences that I remember are:&#xA;Monsters block your movement - so getting from point A to B might require you to either fight or try to evade monsters.&#xA;Closing Gates - For each gate you move to a two stage area with encounter and then you come back to close it, it takes a while plus there are special rules on what happens to you while you are in other world and go insane or die. Also closing gates requires clue tokes as far as I remember.&#xA;Monsters move - Every time a mythos is revealed certain monsters move across the board, some of them don't some of them fly to the sky it can be a bit to keep track. &#xA;Spawning monsters - If there's more monsters on the board than a certain number they spawn in this buffer pool and once that is overrun doom track moves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't say AH is more complex than EH in terms of how deep strategy you need but more in the rules are more convoluted and take a while to process. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T09:29:03.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24259" CreationDate="2015-05-21T12:44:38.443" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has been a while since I played Arkham Horror, but I own Eldritch Horror myself. There are a few very obvious differences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The gate encounters in Arkham take multiple turns to complete. In Eldritch, you resolve a card and that's it. You know at the end of the encounters phase if you've closed the gate or not.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Arkham, the characters have three sliding stats, so you can adjust your character to make them better at something at the expense at something else. You can move your stats one each turn. In Eldritch, you have fixed fixed fixed stats and can earn small boosts to those stats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Speed is a stat in Arkham that's paired with Sneak. If you want a high Sneak, your character will be slow because of the sliding scale. There are some items in the game that boost your speed. In Eldritch, you get one movement a turn, but can then spend travel tickets you've acquired as one of your two actions on a turn. You may have only two travel tickets on you, but you get extra movement if you have tickets for the routes out of your destination after you've moved. Most routes are by ship or train, but there are wilderness routes you have to walk with one of your two actions in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkham uses money to buy items from the stores. If you don't have enough money, you can't buy anything. In Eldritch, you test your influence and if you need to increase your test result, you can take a debt condition. You can always take a debt condition to boost your buying power in Eldritch Horror.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arkham has a lot more expansions and you have the option to customize how the game plays. Eldritch has only two expansions right now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reduction in complexity in Eldritch Horror provides a shorter game. It's still a very long game, but you're shaving off 1-2 hours of game play to get a game that takes 3-4 hours to play verses 5-6 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T12:44:38.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24265" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:01:26.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players who drop during limited events own the cards that they correctly have in their possession at that time. &lt;strong&gt;This includes any unopened or partially drafted boosters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the rule says, if you drop, you keep any unopened or partially drafted boosters. Even if you pack two mythic rares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rule is not convincing enough, here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/573692-dropping-in-the-middle-of-drafting?comment=3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Level 2 judge's interpretation&lt;/a&gt; of it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At any time, you can take the pack in your hand, any cards you have drafted, and any unopened packs you have yet to open and drop from the draft. There will be no repercussions from Wizards for doing this. We don't try to replace any of those cards, the table will just continue drafting with one less player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another L2 judge by the name of Nathan Long wrote &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2013/07/tournament-tuesday-dropping-after-opening-limited-product/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an in depth article&lt;/a&gt; on the subject. It agrees with everything stated above. On &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG/comments/1fmfas/the_11_modern_masters_cards_youd_be_crazy_not_to/cabsl9e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Reddit thread&lt;/a&gt;, Toby Elliot chimes in on the subject. Toby is in charge of tournament policy, and he is also a L5 judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is totally within the rules to grab your pack and drop, the tournament organizer is not obligated to accept your money in the future. My local tournament organizer warns players that they may be banned from participating in future tournaments for dropping repeatedly. The threat is not empty; they actually follow through on some occasions. Talk to the tournament organizer before dropping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T18:01:11.027" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T18:01:11.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24259" CreationDate="2015-05-21T13:39:41.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our gaming group we have had Arkham Horror as the favored game for years. Now several of us has bought Eldritch Horror, and we have played this a lot also - but still play Arkham every other time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the main streamlining that is done in Eldritch is that they have much less &quot;If-Then-Else&quot; cards to keep track of. In Arkham you quickly get into a situation where there is several faceup cards and monsters that might trigger based on the environment, player actions and cosmic sybols. You will find that with a lot on the table you spend a lot of time and congitive energy managing the actions and special triggers around the board.&#xA;In Eldritch they have melted everything together in a &quot;Reckoning&quot; event. A Reconing is triggered by the Mythos cards, and this is the only time you really have to look through all the monsters and cards at the table and player/ancient one sheets, looking for &quot;Reckoning&quot; triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game content, main difference in my opinion is that Eldritch has a stronger connection between the cards on the table and the actual elder one. Several of the cards is specific to the elder one you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite this, however, we still play Arkham a lot. Why? Well, Arkham still has a lot more expansions and cards out. Also, Arkham usually is a longer and more involved game, where you get more time to get to know, love and build your character. Arkham is also more &quot;Closed&quot;, and it gives a slightly more hopeless and claustrophobic feel until you possibly overcome the game towards the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T13:39:41.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24264" CreationDate="2015-05-21T14:05:17.363" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player whose turn it is takes precedence. In resolving their ability, the current players makes it impossible for the other player to resolve their ability, so the other player can't trigger it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the Runner's turn&lt;/strong&gt; the Runner chooses, and the Corp does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the Corp's turn&lt;/strong&gt; the Corp looks at the Runner's grip and chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will be referring to &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;. From &lt;em&gt;page 21&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Triggered Abilities&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to use a triggered ability a prerequisite must be met. This prerequisite is either a trigger cost that must be paid (PAID ABILITY) or a trigger condition that must be met (CONDITIONAL ABILITY). &lt;strong&gt;Once an ability is triggered, its effect is resolved immediately&lt;/strong&gt; and can only be stopped by PREVENT&#xA;or AVOID effects. Players must follow all restrictions on the cards when triggering abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;em&gt;page 22&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Simultaneous Effects&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one or more abilities have the same timing trigger or can be triggered at the same time, each player chooses the order his own abilities trigger. A player can trigger an optional conditional ability before a required conditional ability if they both have the same trigger condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If players ever want to perform simultaneous effects at the same&#xA;time, the player whose turn it is resolves all of his effects first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the cards in question have conditional triggered abilities. For Titanium Ribs, this is &amp;quot;you take damage&amp;quot;. For &amp;quot;Chronos Protocol&amp;quot;, this is &amp;quot;the first time this turn the Runner takes net damage&amp;quot; (note that this is an optional ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time the Runner takes net damage each turn, both of these conditional abilities can trigger. If they do (the Corp chooses to trigger the optional ability), we must follow the rule for simultaneous effects (&lt;em&gt;the player whose turn it is resolves all of his effects first&lt;/em&gt;), while keeping in mind the rule on triggered abilities (&lt;em&gt;once an ability is triggered, its effect is resolved immediately&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/cf/31/cf310e29-570e-41b6-b505-73c2762adc7f/adn01_faq_eng.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;em&gt;page 3&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player cannot trigger an action/ability unless he is also able to resolve it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one player has resolved his triggered ability and trashed a card, the other player will not be able to resolve their own ability, and so cannot trigger it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Resolution during the Runner's Turn&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner resolves all of his effects first:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Titanium Ribs&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner chooses the card to trash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner trashes that card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Corp resolves all of his effects second:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chronos Protocol&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to resolve Chronos Protocol, the Runner must trash a card due to damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner has already trashed a card for this damage, so Chronos Protocol could not be resolved in this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of this, the Corp cannot trigger Chronos Protocol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Resolution during the Corp's Turn&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Corp resolves all of his effects first:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Chronos Protocol&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Corp looks at the Runner's grip and selects a card to trash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner trashes that card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner resolves all of his effects second:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Titanium Ribs&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In order to resolve Titanium Ribs, the Runner must trash a card due to damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Runner has already trashed a card for this damage, so Titanium Ribs could not be resolved in this situation.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of this, the Runner cannot trigger Titanium Ribs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T17:27:29.890" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24276" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:00:03.080" Score="6" ViewCount="1267" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose that I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189648&quot;&gt;Dragon Broodmother&lt;/a&gt;, two dragon tokens, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=dragon%20tempest&quot;&gt;Dragon Tempest&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189648&quot;&gt;Dragon Broodmother&lt;/a&gt; puts a 1/1 Dragon Token with Devour 2 on the battlefield and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=dragon%20tempest&quot;&gt;Dragon Tempest&lt;/a&gt; deals damage based on the number of dragons on the battlefield whenever a dragon enters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, if the new token summoned by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189648&quot;&gt;Dragon Broodmother&lt;/a&gt; devours both dragon tokens, does &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=dragon%20tempest&quot;&gt;Dragon Tempest&lt;/a&gt;'s ability count the devoured dragons in addition to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189648&quot;&gt;Dragon Broodmother&lt;/a&gt; and the new token?  Are the devoured dragons still on the battlfield when the triggered ability resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T18:14:32.100" Title="MTG: How does Devour work with abilites like Dragon Tempest" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:00:19.460" Score="3" ViewCount="2219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I ask the question, I should mention I already saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/23212/whats-the-probability-of-having-a-combo-on-the-first-turn-in-mtg&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; and just don't get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a 40 card deck with cards I'll label:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A (3 copies)&#xA;B (3 copies)&#xA;C (3 copies)&#xA;D (2 copies)&#xA;E (1 copy)&#xA;F (2 copies)&#xA;G (3 copies)&#xA;H (1 copy)&#xA;I (11 copies)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I need to know for a hand of 5, and a hand of 6, what the likelihood of getting any one (or more) of the following is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(A and B), (A and G), (A and C), (A and F), (H alone), (E and I), (E and C), (E and H), (E and G)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it/how can I do it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12709" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:31:27.093" Title="Calculating the probability of a combo hand" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|probability|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-05-22T06:07:48.723" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24274" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:06:18.467" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Dragon Tempest's ability does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; see the devoured Dragons when the Dragon token enters the battlefield. As you can see in the reminder text on Dragon Broodmother, the Devour ability says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As the token enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;, you may sacrifice any number of creatures. &lt;strong&gt;It enters the battlefield with&lt;/strong&gt; twice that many +1/+1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Devour is a replacement effect (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_Effect&quot;&gt;CR 614.1c&lt;/a&gt;), so it happens at the same time that the token enters the battlefield. By the time Dragon Tempest's ability triggers (and then resolves), the devoured dragons have already been sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T18:14:32.100" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T18:14:32.100" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24279" CreationDate="2015-05-21T18:37:42.613" Score="13" ViewCount="3464" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tonight I'm going to play Settlers of Catan for the first time. The thing is that I will play with very expérienced players and they strongly recommended me to gather the more information I could in order to start playing at a fairly good level. I took the time to read a lot on the ruling, the game, how to manage ressources and how to arrange my board but I feel I won't do as great as I could for a first time. I don't need to be as good as them but they really don't want to have a ''noob'' in the game since they play for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what would be your best to-go pro tip for a beginner and what should I focus on for my first game in order to not be a dead mass in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in adance !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5994" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:26:36.990" Title="Playing Catan for the first time, what should I know?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24277" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:07:51.187" Score="19" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The placement of your initial settlements is very important.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your initial settlements (along with the first couple rounds of dice rolls) have a large impact on your game, affecting whether you get off to a quick start or lag behind. Some things to keep in mind when placing your initial settlements include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probability of numbers: All else equal, a space bordering more dots is better than a space bordering fewer dots.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diversity of numbers: In general, starting with, &lt;em&gt;e.g.&lt;/em&gt;, 4-5-6-8-10-11 is going to give you an easier game than 4-4-6-6-10-11, since you will receive cards on more dice rolls, which then helps you build and/or trade more consistently, and helps you avoid having too many cards in your hand when a 7 is rolled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mix of resources: All else equal, it's better to have direct access to more resources. &#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Subpoint: In general, wheat is important at all stages of the game, sheep tend to be slightly worse than other resources (due to lower need and relative abundance). Note that the usefulness of resources changes as the game progresses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scarcity of resources: However, there will usually be one resource that is scarcer than other resources. Having access to this resource can give you an advantage in trading. A simple way of evaluating scarcity is to count the dots on each resource. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't ignore ports: Sometimes, ports (especially a 2:1 port) can increase the appeal of a spot. A wood-wood-__ spot next to a 2:1 wood port may be more appealing than one with three different resources. (Of course this depends on many other factors.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't count on being able to expand to the good spots -- or the interior of the board: In general, it tends to be harder to expand into the center than towards the edges. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Make sure you consider the consequences of your trades&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a trade that in other situations would be relatively even will give one player a large advantage. Trading a card to a player so that he can build a settlement on a wood port before his neighbor can might be a fine move, even if it upsets his neighbor a bit. But if that player has settlements on 8-wood, 6-wood, and 4-wood, it might give him too much of an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Consider the robber placement&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Placing the robber on a player with an unplayed development card might not be the best move, since it is relatively likely that the player has a soldier to move the robber away. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Don't neglect development cards&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Soldiers&lt;/em&gt; (the most common card) provide you with a resource, deprive an opponent of a resource, free your number (if blocked by the robber), block an opponent's production, and can potentially provide 2 VP. &lt;em&gt;Road Building&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Year of Plenty&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Monopoly&lt;/em&gt; are nearly always useful, except perhaps for a late-game &lt;em&gt;Road Building&lt;/em&gt;. Victory points are of course useful. But make sure to evaluate the potential drawback of using (in particular) ore and wheat for a development card instead of a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Longest road is nice -- when no one else wants it&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, many beginners go for the 2 VP from the longest road. Roads are easy to build since they only require two resources, but also provide the fewest benefits. The best way to claim the longest road bonus, in my opinion, is (1) in the mid- or end-game, after establishing a good resource engine with multiple settlements (and therefore multiple resources / numbers), (2) when other opponents are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; focused on attaining the longest road, and (3) when you have an excess of wood and brick and other players aren't willing to trade at a good rate for either. Otherwise, it's probably better to focus on building settlements, cities, and even buying development cards. In short, don't just build more and more roads because they're easy to build. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Other resources&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/137013/tips-beginners-catan-dummies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/137013/tips-beginners-catan-dummies&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/7450280#7450280&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/7450280#7450280&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12629" LastEditorUserId="12629" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T13:26:36.990" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:26:36.990" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24275" CreationDate="2015-05-21T19:13:09.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of that sort of problem in probability is 'draw without replacement'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you do this sort of problem, it's easier to first figure out the probability of not getting what you want, then subtracting that from 100% to get the probability you're interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, we'll find probability of finding H alone.  We start by finding the probability of having a hand without H. If we draw 5 cards, then the probability of the first one not being H is 39/40, then, if that happened, the probability of the second one not being H is 38/39.  We want the probability of all draws not being H, so we multiply the individual probabilities with each other. The probability of all 5 cards not being H is &lt;code&gt;(39/40) * (38/39) * (37/38) * (36/37) * (35/36)&lt;/code&gt; if you multiply that out, you get .875, so that's a 87.5% chance of not getting H in a hand of 5, subtract the percentage from 100 and you have 12.5% chance of getting that H.  If you do the same thing with 6 cards, you get 85% of not and 15% of getting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Did you follow all of that?  I hope so, because combinations of 2 cards will get more complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing the same thing we did for H, we can find that the probability of getting at least 1 A is 33.75%.  The probability of getting at least 1 B is the same, but getting at least one of each together is a little harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find the probability of drawing an opening hand with A and B &lt;code&gt;(P[A and B])&lt;/code&gt;, we need to find 3 probabilities first, the probability of drawing just A but not B &lt;code&gt;(P[A and ~B])&lt;/code&gt;, the probability of drawing just B but not A &lt;code&gt;(P[~A and B])&lt;/code&gt;, and the probability of drawing neither A or B &lt;code&gt;(P[~A and ~B])&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For P[A and ~B], take P[A] * P[~B].  That's &lt;code&gt;0.3375 * 0.6625 = .2235&lt;/code&gt;.&#xA;(NOTE: This is technically incorrect.  It's an approximation that works okay when A and B are a lot less than the total number of cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the number of As is the same as the number of Bs, P[~A and B] is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neither part is similar to the 'not H' problem.  Same as last time we do &lt;code&gt;cards-in-deck-that-are-neither&lt;/code&gt;/&lt;code&gt;total-cards-in-deck&lt;/code&gt;. Again for a hand of 5 cards: &lt;code&gt;(34/40) * (33/39) * (32/38) * (31/37) * (30/36)&lt;/code&gt; gives you 0.4228 for drawing neither A or B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we do P[~A and ~B] + P[~A and B] + P[A and ~B] = 0.4228 + 0.2235 + 0.2235 = 0.8698.  That's the probability of drawing 5 cards without the A and B combo.  So, you'll have a 13.02% chance of having that combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that's enough info for you to calculate the other combinations you're interested in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T19:13:09.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24275" CreationDate="2015-05-21T20:06:26.447" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to post again because I thought of something else that might be an answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probability theory is complicated to learn and it's very tedious to calculate something like this.  If I were solving this problem, I would write a program to simulate a few thousand card draws and just look at the relative frequency.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wrote it in javascript, it might look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;lt;!DOCTYPE HTML&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;p id=&quot;out&quot;&amp;gt;&amp;lt;/p&amp;gt;&#xA;&amp;lt;script&amp;gt;&#xA;var deck = [&#xA;  'A','A','A', /*(3 copies)*/&#xA;  'B','B','B', /*(3 copies)*/&#xA;  'C','C','C', /*(3 copies)*/&#xA;  'D','D', /*(2 copies)*/&#xA;  'E', /*(1 copy)*/&#xA;  'F','F', /*(2 copies)*/&#xA;  'G','G','G', /*(3 copies)*/&#xA;  'H', /*(1 copy)*/&#xA;  'I','I','I','I','I','I','I','I','I','I','I', /*(11 copies)*/&#xA;];&#xA;&#xA;function draw_hand(cards) {&#xA;  var hand = [];&#xA;  var drawn_cards = []; //array to make sure we don't draw the same card twice&#xA;  for(var i = 0; i &amp;lt; cards; i++) {&#xA;    // pick a random card&#xA;    var card_index = Math.floor((Math.random() * deck.length) + 1);&#xA;    while(drawn_cards.indexOf(card_index)&amp;gt;=0) {&#xA;      // keep picking new cards until we find one that we haven't picked before&#xA;      card_index = Math.floor((Math.random() * deck.length) + 1);&#xA;    }&#xA;    drawn_cards.push(card_index);&#xA;    hand.push(deck[card_index]);&#xA;  }&#xA;  return hand;&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;// I didn't put in all the combos from the question post&#xA;var A_B_combos = 0;&#xA;var A_G_combos = 0;&#xA;var E_I_combos = 0;&#xA;var total_deals = 100000;&#xA;&#xA;for(var deals = 0; deals &amp;lt; total_deals; deals++) {&#xA;  var hand = draw_hand(5);&#xA;  if(hand.indexOf('A')&amp;gt;=0 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; hand.indexOf('B')&amp;gt;=0) {&#xA;    A_B_combos = A_B_combos + 1;&#xA;  }&#xA;  if(hand.indexOf('A')&amp;gt;=0 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; hand.indexOf('G')&amp;gt;=0) {&#xA;    A_G_combos = A_G_combos + 1;&#xA;  }&#xA;  if(hand.indexOf('E')&amp;gt;=0 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; hand.indexOf('I')&amp;gt;=0) {&#xA;    E_I_combos = E_I_combos + 1;&#xA;  }&#xA;}&#xA;&#xA;document.getElementById(&quot;out&quot;).innerHTML += &quot;A and B: &quot;&#xA;    + A_B_combos + &quot;/&quot; + total_deals + &quot; or &quot;&#xA;    + Math.floor(10000*(A_B_combos/total_deals))/100 + &quot;%  &amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&quot;;&#xA;document.getElementById(&quot;out&quot;).innerHTML += &quot;A and G: &quot;&#xA;    + A_G_combos + &quot;/&quot; + total_deals + &quot; or &quot;&#xA;    + Math.floor(10000*(A_G_combos/total_deals))/100 + &quot;%  &amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&quot;;&#xA;document.getElementById(&quot;out&quot;).innerHTML += &quot;E and I: &quot;&#xA;    + E_I_combos + &quot;/&quot; + total_deals + &quot; or &quot;&#xA;    + Math.floor(10000*(E_I_combos/total_deals))/100 + &quot;%  &amp;lt;br/&amp;gt;&quot;;&#xA;  &amp;lt;/script&amp;gt;&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will run if you copy that into notepad, save it as &lt;code&gt;cards.html&lt;/code&gt; or something, then open it with chrome.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastEditorUserId="12554" LastEditDate="2015-05-21T20:31:27.093" LastActivityDate="2015-05-21T20:31:27.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2015-05-22T00:23:10.557" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two player formats I know of are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solomon draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winston draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winchester draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards has some information about these &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/casual-formats-2008-08-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;'casual'&lt;/a&gt; formats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Common Setup&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each of these draft formats uses a similar setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3 packs per player (6 total)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Open all the packs, without looking at them, and remove any basic lands then shuffle all the cards together. You should have between 84 and 90 cards depending on the sets the boosters came from (14+basic or 15 cards in each).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of using new boosters one can build a draft pool by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle up an existing sealed deck pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle two sealed pools (12 packs total) together and draw off 90 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle a Cube and draw off 90 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decide on a minimum deck size (30 or 40, see below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Randomly decide who drafts first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Solomon Draft&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players alternate drawing 8 cards and separating them into two piles, then the opposing player chooses a pile and the separating player keeps the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piles need not be even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When there are less than 8 cards left in the draft deck/pool the draft is over, the remaining cards are not used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Winston draft&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by dealing out 3 face down cards, these become the draft piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players alternate looking through each pile in turn, they may either take the pile or look at the next. If no pile is chosen the player drafts the top card of the draft deck. Then deals a face down card to each pile the player passed on, plus one card to replace the pile they took. The draft ends when all the cards are drafted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piles have no maximum size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Winchester draft&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Begin by dealing out 4 face up cards, these become the draft piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players alternate picking a pile, then adding a face-up card to each pile, including one to replace the pile they chose. The draft ends when all the cards are drafted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The piles have no maximum size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;alternate setup&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player opens their 3 boosters and shuffles them together (removing any basic lands first.) Each player deals off 2 face up cards to create the piles, 4 total and players still choose from any pile. After each choice, both players add 1 face-up card to each of 'their' piles from their draft deck/pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Deck Building&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nominally a normal 40-card limited deck is suggested for these formats; this leads to rather low power/'bad' decks, bad mana bases, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest 30-card decks for better game play (n.b. some people consider the low power-level of the 40-card decks very skill testing and part of the fun.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should decide the minimum deck size before drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players build a deck of the agreed size, using their draft picks and as many basic lands as they need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Play&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who drafted second gets the choice to play or draw in the first game of the match. A match is usually a race to 2 wins (nominally best 2 of 3, but draws can force additional games!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Re-playability&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the match is over you can shuffle up and draft again, or try another format. Since the cards come off the draft deck in a random order, each draft will be different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If new packs were used, these can be saved to draft again, or combine 2 or more draft pools to choose a random (90 card) subset for better re-playability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-26T05:58:53.297" LastActivityDate="2022-05-26T05:58:53.297" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2015-05-22T05:40:59.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In games I play with my friends, we just play with our resource cards revealed. (Development cards are still kept hidden, though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're not exactly tournament-level players. Counting cards is something we're bad at, and we don't tend to find particularly fun, either - so just having everyone display the resources they have at all times effectively mimics everyone at the table having a perfect memory of what cards everyone gains and loses. This does mean that cards stolen via the robber are public knowledge, but honestly we've never noticed it making enough of a difference to matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I once played in a game where some players played with open hands while others insisted on playing with their cards hidden - and the winner was one of the open-information players; Secrecy just wasn't enough of an advantage to make a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12717" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T05:40:59.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24288" CreationDate="2015-05-22T10:00:17.273" Score="22" ViewCount="1974" Body="&lt;p&gt;On her move, Alice trades with Bob: Alice gives 2 wheat, Bob gives 1 sheep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then Alice does her calculations again and decides it was a wrong move. She wants to trade her sheep back for one wheat, and Bob is willing to give her back 1 wheat for 1 sheep. Alice does nothing else between those trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other players object, saying it's a catch to work around &quot;no giving away cards for free&quot; rule, and Alice and Bob might be conspiring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I (being Bob) know for a fact it's not true, and the game rules don't explicitly forbid it, as far as I can tell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it a valid move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12722" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T14:11:13.967" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:00:47.973" Title="Is &quot;refund with discount&quot; a valid move on Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24286" CreationDate="2015-05-22T11:41:57.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what the official rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;! Trade&#xA;  After you roll for resource production, you may trade with other players or with the bank.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   You may trade as long as you have resource cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   If you decide not to trade during your turn, no one can trade&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   You may trade with another player between your turns, but only if it’s his   turn and he elects to trade with you&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   You may not trade with the bank during another players turn&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   You may not give away cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   You may not trade development cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •   You may not trade like resources (e.g., 2 wool for 1 wool)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't specific say this is not allowed although you can't give away cards, but seeing as a trade is concluded after you handed over the cards to each other, the second trade will be a new trade and is certainly a valid (although not nice)trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically she's giving away a wheat without anything for it and so it seems like you're ignoring the rule of &lt;em&gt;you may not give away cards&lt;/em&gt;. You can try to deny it to the other players but if they don't believe it you can't prove that it isn't so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I would be present at the table I would make trades only refundable for the whole amount if both parties agree to exchange the cards back. Other than that you can't discount a refund. So it really is up to the players and you should try to avoid this sort of situations and make trades permanent, no refunds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T11:41:57.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24286" CreationDate="2015-05-22T12:07:02.867" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a card giveaway. You were under no obligation to make the second trade. For that reason, she is not, technically or otherwise, giving away a wheat for nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7912" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T12:07:02.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24290" CreationDate="2015-05-22T12:44:42.297" Score="12" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many board games have information which is semi-secret, where it's &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; to keep track of it, but not easy.  For example, which resources you get and spend in Catan is public knowledge, but which resources you &lt;em&gt;currently&lt;/em&gt; have is secret.  If I was able to mentally count every player's income and expenditures, I'd know exactly what they were holding, but that's a lot of information to keep track of.  Similarly, many games make earning victory points public, but the total number earned private.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives an advantage to players with better memories.  It's not necessarily an &lt;em&gt;unfair&lt;/em&gt; advantage, and there's only so much you can generally do with the information, but it is an advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, how appropriate or inappropriate would it be to keep a record of this information?  I can write down every resource card someone collects, and scratch them off when they spend them, or keep a running total of points earned.  Assuming I'm accurate, this would be even more precise than the people with good memories.  But is it good sportsmanship?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Obviously, a group of friends who regularly play together can establish whatever social norms or house rules they want.  I'm more interested in the general case, where you're playing with people you may not see regularly or may not know at all.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3709" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T16:33:25.327" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T17:06:27.180" Title="How inappropriate is it to track semi-secret information using paper or other memory aids?" Tags="|house-rules|etiquette|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="8" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:07:18.900" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's two schools of thought on this subject - one is that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you can do anything unless the rules say you can't&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, the other is that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;you can only do what the rules say you can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. I believe there's a better argument for the second case, because the rules are generally written to define the game, and can't expressly prohibit everything you might try to do. The rules of Catan don't specifically say you can't look through the Development Card deck, but I don't think anyone would consider that fair play. By-hand tracking is never mentioned in the rules, so I don't think it should be included. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, a board game should be one person's brain and luck against the other's. Would it be fair to run an app computing my odds of winning a Risk battle? Or compute my chance of drawing that straight flush in a poker game? These are things I could figure out myself if I had the time and math skills, but are much easier with an aid. Similarly, tracking resources could be done with a good memory, but augmenting that with paper and pencil doesn't seem right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: I would consider by-hand point or resource tracking at best unsporting, and at worst, against the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="12631" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T13:15:50.557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T13:15:50.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T13:43:05.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the general case, I would say writing down semi-secret information is definitely frowned on.  You're giving yourself a competitive advantage over others, unless they are willing to put in the same amount of effort, which will be upsetting to a lot of players that are trying to focus more on enjoying the game than winning at all costs.  These players don't want to spend the time to track everyone's resources, but they will resent that they are less likely to win due to this (even if the reality is that you get little or no advantage as a result).  Having more information also contributes to analysis paralysis, and is likely to make your decisions take longer as you try to assess what choice you should make based on what everyone else is holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would only do something like this in a group you are familiar with and where everyone is interested in a highly competitive environment where as much information as possible is available to all players.  And if you're making that agreement, you could just agree to make it public information by playing with open hands or whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-05-22T16:01:37.483" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T16:01:37.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24202" CreationDate="2015-05-22T15:18:56.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I've played with two players exclusively, so I cannot compare it to 3+ player games.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokaido is inherently &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a highly competitive game. You stroll across Japan taking in the sights, local cuisine, and having minor adventures (making new friends, bathing with monkeys, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The neutral piece offers an element of minor sabotage; whoever is in the lead when it is the neutral piece's turn to move can bump it right in front of where the other player wants to go... alternatively you can just beeline the neutral piece to the inn. But no matter how spiteful you want to be by staying in the lead and controlling the neutral player, you're only shooting yourself in the foot by skipping so many spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately it's a fun game to play when you don't feel like over-analyzing the game... it's not about &quot;winners&quot; and &quot;losers&quot; and more about which player had the most fulfilling journey.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR-- The two player rules add an extra element of gameplay through the inclusion of a neutral traveler and the removal of the secondary spaces. (two players can never share a spot on the road except at inns) Personally, I find it enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12318" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T15:18:56.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24294" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-22T15:53:17.850" Score="8" ViewCount="4193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible for a human to play Connect 4 perfectly? Have there been such players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am actually a Connect 4 enthusiast, but find it increasingly hard to &lt;em&gt;memorize&lt;/em&gt; so many initial positions. Is it possible for a human to memorize some basic rules and tricks, as well as starting positions, and win atleast 80% of the games (starting 1st) against a perfect player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any simple rules that I've happened to miss, or any shortcut to memorizing the starting moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10320" LastActivityDate="2023-06-20T09:41:12.103" Title="Can humans play Connect 4 perfectly?" Tags="|connect-four|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T16:03:24.823" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you have to understand the game sufficiently to gauge whether the information really is secret or not. For games where information isn't secret due to being calculatable, it sounds like a good, sporting house rule to instead play openly rather than punishing less acute players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good etiquette would mean communicating why you wish to invoke this house rule clearly and accepting how the players feel about doing so. Some may perceive having a good memory as part of the challenge and therefore not a candidate for being removed in the name of sportsmanship and ultimately it is better sportsmanship to come to a compromise and play according to whatever rules are agreed, without reluctance or resentment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12724" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T16:03:24.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T16:03:44.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's against the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules call for playing with the cards kept secret, but tracking everyone's resources on paper would be virtually no different than playing with all cards revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It makes the game less enjoyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It slows the game down. It leads to &quot;what did I miss&quot; type questions. It takes your attention away from players, reducing social interactions. etc. People will rapidly lose interest in playing with you. If this isn't the definition of poor sportsmanship, I don't know what is.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T16:03:44.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T16:33:36.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In situations where certain information would be available perfectly to an observant player, little would be generally gained by allowing all players to keep records of such information which would not equally be gained by having the information continually public.  There are, however, at least two situations where allowing personal record-keeping might be useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If players have different levels of skill, and granting novice players a handicap would make the game more enjoyable than it would be if they were simply outclassed, it may be helpful to allow the novice players to keep written records even if more skillful players were not allowed to.  To keep the game &quot;fair&quot;, it may be helpful to have a house rule that any player may select between either being allowed to keep written records, or receiving some other advantage/ability which would only be &lt;em&gt;relevant&lt;/em&gt; to more skillful players, though such advantage must be chosen carefully to be worth enough that skillful players wouldn't want to give it up, but not worth so much as to unbalance the game against the novice.  Alternatively, if novices are unlikely to reach level 20 while still being novices, one could have a rule that recordkeeping would be allowed by all players below level 20 (though few people who expected to spend most of their time over level 20 would want to bother prior to passing that point).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In some games, the state of a player's hand may have public and non-public aspects.  For the situation where a player's initial cards start be private, but the motion of cards into or out of a player's hand might be public, a player might leave all of his hands which have been publicly seen face-up, but not expose those which haven't.  Such an approach may offer some benefit to the player with the cards as well as the opponents, since leaving publicly-exposed cards face up would help the player remember which cards the opponents had seen.  I'm not sure, though, how best to handle situations where most acquisitions and disposals would be public but some disposals might not be (e.g. if a player does a &quot;sneak thief&quot; attack on another player and takes a randomly selected card, and only the thief and victim are supposed to know which card the player no longer has, I don't know any way for an &quot;open-hand&quot; game to effectively convey the notion &quot;the player has acquired these five cards, but presently only has four&quot;).  For such games, written records might be more convenient than other open-hand approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's most important is that players agree upon what the rules should be.  Many games could be enjoyable as light-hearted fun without record-keeping or as a competitive exercise with note-taking allowed.  Neither approach should be considered &quot;better&quot; than the other; what's important is that the approach that's in use matches the game people presently want to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12725" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T16:33:36.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24301" CreationDate="2015-05-22T16:58:49.517" Score="19" ViewCount="28702" Body="&lt;p&gt;In commander, there is the extra rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.14a A player that’s been dealt 21 or more combat damage by the same commander over the course of the game loses the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am wondering as to the origins and intent of this rule.  Why is commander damage tracked separately per commander and why is 21 the particular number chosen to be lethal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Motivation for the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is incredibly cumbersome from a game tracking standpoint.  Even with just 4 players, it means that in addition to 4 life totals, there are 12 commander damage totals to track as well (or possibly even 16 commander damage totals if control changing effects are prevalent).  This takes the number of things that need tracking well out of range of most magic tracking apps and counter methods, making pen and paper or large dice piles the only good tracking options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My playgroup finds this so cumbersome that we ignore the commander damage rule almost entirely (we consider 20 damage from a commander in a single hit as lethal, and otherwise don't care).  This decision was made under the key part of commander philosophy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;House rules or &quot;fair play&quot; exceptions are always encouraged if they&#xA;  result in more fun for the local community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this piece of philosophy also suggests that the commander damage rule originally was to create fair or at least interesting play.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the number 21 is very odd in the context of magic.  Magic game constants, aside from starting hand size, are usually multiples of 10: 20 life in a normal game, 30 life in two headed giant, 40 life in commander, 60 card minimum deck size in a normal game, 40 card minimum deck size in limited, 100 card deck size in commander...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I'm posting my speculations as an answer, but I would love an answer with authoritative or historical sources.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:42:31.380" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T00:42:31.380" Title="Why is 21 damage from a commander lethal?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24294" CreationDate="2015-05-22T17:08:36.233" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Connect 4 has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.informatik.uni-trier.de/%7Efernau/DSL0607/Masterthesis-Viergewinnt.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;been solved&lt;/a&gt; by Victor Allis in 1988.  It is a first player win provided that the first disk is played to the middle column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That paper I linked above has some heavy-duty analysis of board positions and expert play. I suppose it would be possible to memorize them, but I couldn't say whether you'd reach the 80% goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-06-13T10:23:57.990" LastActivityDate="2023-06-13T10:23:57.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24298" CreationDate="2015-05-22T17:14:28.890" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would guess that the commander specific damage would be to make combat-oriented commanders like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Akroma%2C%20Angel%20of%20Wrath&quot;&gt;Akroma, Angel of Wrath&lt;/a&gt; competitive with commanders with powerful abilities like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcum%20Dagsson&quot;&gt;Arcum Dagsson&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krenko%2C%20Mob%20Boss&quot;&gt;Krenko, Mob Boss&lt;/a&gt;.  By having it be commander specific, it prevents this from tipping the balance too far in favor of the combat oriented commanders in a multiplayer game, as if there were multiple players trying to win on commander damage, they would have an advantage over the players not trying to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to 21, it should be substantially less than players' starting life total or else this would have no point except against life gain.  21 has the nice property that for every increase in the power of your commander, the number of turns needed to kill someone goes down (at least until you get past 7 power):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;commander power | turns to kill&#xA;----------------|--------------&#xA;      1         |       21&#xA;      2         |       11&#xA;      3         |       7&#xA;      4         |       6&#xA;      5         |       5&#xA;      6         |       4&#xA;      7         |       3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't happen with nearby numbers.  With 20, there is no difference between a 5 and 6 power commander (they each kill in 4 turns), and with 22 there is no difference between a 6 and 7 power commander (they each kill in 4 turns).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T17:14:28.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24298" CreationDate="2015-05-22T17:24:12.103" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&amp;amp;t=3734&quot;&gt;Elder Dragon Legend Wars&lt;/a&gt; had the following as part of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;players choose (or select at random) an Elder Dragon Legend as their army's leader. The dragon must be supported by creatures and spells corresponding to each of the Dragon's three specific casting colours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players designate and announce three of their creatures as &quot;Warlords&quot; and two creatures as &quot;Captains&quot;. If an opponent destroys a Captain, the Captain's controller takes 2 damage, and the destroyer gains 2 life. If a warlord is destroyed, the controller takes 3 damage and the destroyer gains 3 life. And for an Elder Dragon, the controller takes 4 damages, the destroyer gains 4 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure when or how the rules where modified to add the 21 damage rule, but I found an interesting thread on the MTG boards. Someone who goes by the handle &lt;code&gt;TheTrueNub&lt;/code&gt; posted this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Well, I can tell you why the 21-damage rule was put in place, anyway. It didn't start out as anything to promote certain archetypes like voltron. &quot;Commander&quot; as we know it was once &quot;Elder Dragon Highlander,&quot; the reason being that you'd choose one of the five Elder Dragons of Legends block (Arcades Sabboth, Chromium, Nicol Bolas, Palladia-Mors, or Vaevictis Asmadi) as your commander. Each of these dragons are 7/7, therefore three successful swings equals 21 damage. Though nowadays you don't have to use an Elder Dragon as your commander, the &quot;21 Elder Dragon damage rule&quot; is still preserved to this day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes sense to me. I imagine he &quot;three swings rule&quot; was a flavourful rule added to ensure a large multiplayer game didn't drag out for too long and that aggro strategies were viable. Without this rule, it's too easy to build a lifegain and/or control deck that wouldn't give combat-oriented decks a chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="12388" LastEditDate="2015-05-23T05:03:51.670" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T05:03:51.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24349" CreationDate="2015-05-22T18:24:23.833" Score="3" ViewCount="6860" Body="&lt;p&gt;Removing the element of how easy or hard it is to work as a group, and assuming that you are 1 player controlling all 1 to 8 players, what numbers of players are easier or harder to win Eldritch Horror, and roughly how much easier or difficult? I don't expect statistically significant replies, just interested in what people's impressions are by feel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It already seems evident that playing with 1, 3, 5, or 7 players is a disadvantage due to the number of clues spawned, gates spawned, and monsters surging being identical to those for player-counts one greater.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T09:59:31.573" Title="How difficult is Eldritch Horror with differing numbers of players?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T18:27:02.733" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll take the other side here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Keeping private notes is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; ok (unless the rules specifically forbid it.)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm playing a game like &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt;, I can keep track of what other players have in their hands without too much difficulty.  Am I acting against the rules by simply &lt;em&gt;remembering&lt;/em&gt; what's happened so far?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a piece of scrap paper to augment your mental capacities is perfectly acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T18:27:02.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-22T19:16:14.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Among people you don't know as well or don't know at all (the key here is familiarity, not exactly what you stated at the end of your question about people you don't see regularly per se), it's typically safe to fall back to the assumption that games are played more socially and less competitively. You can imagine any number of brutal or brilliant competitive plays that are shrugged off or laughed off among friends but would easily make gaming situations with less familiar people awkward, such as repeatedly assaulting one player or loudly declaring a convincing argument why someone needs to be attacked.  These situations easily antagonize even people who are close within a game group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given this, you wouldn't necessarily offend anyone by taking notes, but, to put it bluntly, they'd think you were weird, do the eyebrow raising thing, and go into high alert from a competitive standpoint.  Even ignoring the negative social ramifications, you compromise the ability to divert attention from yourself and surprise opponents. That's the best part!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T19:16:14.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24306" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24308" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:03:09.527" Score="2" ViewCount="1618" Body="&lt;p&gt;If at any time outside of my turn I end up with more than 10 cards, for instance from having cards returned to my hand by another's action, do I keep and play from them on my turn only to discard down to 10 cards after I draw two cards on my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only mention of discarding down to 10 is on page 4 where it explains drawing two cards: &quot;If you have more than 10 after drawing, discard down to 10.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T01:07:42.280" Title="Do I only discard down to 10 after drawing 2 cards on my turn?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24286" CreationDate="2015-05-22T20:08:05.597" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I fall somewhere in between here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that if it happened exactly as stated above, it's fine: she made a trade, changed her mind, and now wants her sheep back - fine, but you have every right to get something in return.  You certainly don't have to 'refund' the trade, right?  So you charge her one of the two wheat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the first trade is entered into &lt;em&gt;with the express intention of doing the second&lt;/em&gt;, then it's cheating, because it's trying to work around the rules.  At least, it has the appearance of that.  If the people you play with are more rules-focused, as in 'exactly as the rules are written', then it's still legal - in that case cards can't be given to someone with zero cards, otherwise they always can be via a trade like this.  But with me, I'd think that has the appearance of violating the rule (and violates its spirit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2015-05-22T20:08:05.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24306" CreationDate="2015-05-23T01:07:42.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hand limit only applies after your draw step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Pretty Pretty Smash Up Rules&quot;&gt;the most recent rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, &amp;quot;This Is How You Roll&amp;quot; turn order on &lt;em&gt;page 5&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;4. Draw 2 Cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just what it says: draw 2 cards. If you need to draw, reveal, search for or look at a card and your deck is empty, shuffle your discard pile. Put it on the table face down — that’s your new deck. Start drawing from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The maximum number of cards you can have in your hand &lt;strong&gt;at this time&lt;/strong&gt; is 10. If you have more than 10 &lt;strong&gt;after drawing&lt;/strong&gt;, discard down to 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T01:07:42.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18715" CreationDate="2015-05-23T05:55:35.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Really, the only thing you would have to invest in is the codex, rulebook and new templates. All of your army would still be completely valid. The Uniques can always be substituted for one of the generic HQs, and would still be permitted in tournaments (The uniques cost more than the generics, so GW makes more money, and let you play). Unless you're really set on running BA and DA, a generic SM codex might be better until you get to grips with the new rules of alliances and so forth. You would have to do very little work configuring a BA DA army into a generic SM army, and these days the armies are so similar anyway that it wouldn't be too much of a loss, especially if you are going to switch back again (get the digital codex to begin with, it's cheaper). While I run BAs myself, I still find having an SM codex really useful, so it would not be a wasted investment anyway. Good to see you're re-entering the 41st millennium!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12679" LastActivityDate="2015-05-23T05:55:35.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24408" CreationDate="2015-05-23T07:40:21.847" Score="2" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading various sections on Eldritch Horror's deck management, namely the sections on Searching, on Gaining Possessions and Conditions, and on Discarding, I've tried to sum up some aspects of deck management.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells and Conditions (the 2 sided cards) never have a discard pile. Cards returned to them are shuffled right back in, while other deck types reshuffle their discard piles once the deck runs out. This is likely to keep the possible multiple outcomes of spells/conditions as varied and unpredictable as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Random cards are drawn from the top of single-sided card decks and from the bottom of 2-sided card decks. If a repeat (such as for a condition/spell card) is found, the drawing continues and, once finished, this &quot;temporary&quot; discard pile (i.e. the cards passed to find a valid card) is shuffled right back in. This approach is done to minimize the possibility of having to shuffle. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Searching for a specific card or a kind of card (i.e. Madness) is done from the bottom of the deck and always followed by shuffling, but discard piles in the 1-sided decks are not shuffled back in. I don't know what rationale there would be for searching through the double sided cards from the bottom up as it seems marginally faster to search top to bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other obvious or helpful guidelines and rationale to managing the decks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T06:46:44.700" Title="Taking, searching, and managing card decks" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20368" CreationDate="2015-05-24T00:10:29.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I may be answering this in a most &quot;catch all&quot; way, but I wanted to make sure how it works was clear to future readers who may misunderstand the card effect in this context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card text of Cameran reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Morphtronic&quot; monsters on the field cannot be targeted by effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a continuous effect &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings:Morphtronic_Cameran&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Card Rulings: Morphtronic Cameran&quot;&gt;Card Rulings: Morphtronic Cameran&lt;/a&gt; that prevents all card effects from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;targeting&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; Morphtronic monsters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is that it technically &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; negate the card effects, it prevents Morphtronic monsters from being selected as targets from card effects that require choosing a card as a target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects from cards like Dark Hole still apply and will destroy all the Morphtronic monsters because Dark Hole's effect does not select targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Effects that target will resolve something like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player chose to play &lt;em&gt;Compulsory Evacuation Device&lt;/em&gt; (target one monster to return to the hand &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Compulsory_Evacuation_Device&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CED&lt;/a&gt;) when he/she controls one monster and the opponent has a Cameran in defense position and another Morphtronic monster, the player cannot select either of the opponent's monsters as targets, therefore he/she &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; return his/her own monster back to their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or in the instance that the player did not have that monster, they cannot activate the card because it does not have a legal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to resolving off of a chain: If a valid target was chosen (CED activated and Cameran was selected) and then it was no longer valid (i.e. a card was chained to CED's activation and the effect changed Cameran's position to defense before CED resolved), then in the resolution of CED nothing happens and CED goes to the graveyard because it is a normal trap card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12733" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T00:10:29.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24312" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24315" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:15:38.387" Score="11" ViewCount="5366" Body="&lt;p&gt;Microbot Alpha says &quot;All of your minions are considered Microbots.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean while this card is in play, every single minion in play and in discard and in my hand are considered Microbots?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For every Microbot Fixer in play, does every single minion I have in play now get +1 because they are all microbots?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Microbot Archive is in play, does every single minion I have now cause me to draw a card when destroyed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I play Microbot Reclaimer, can I shuffle any minions from my discard pile into my deck (by considering them &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; microbots)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like this link addresses the first item above: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18374/smash-up-microbot-fixer-microbot-alpha?rq=1&quot;&gt;Smash Up: Microbot Fixer + Microbot Alpha&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it looks like this link addresses the 3rd item, implying that minions in the discard are not minions because they are out of play:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12778/do-actions-that-affect-all-cards-also-affect-cards-in-your-hand?rq=1&quot;&gt;Do actions that affect all cards also affect cards in your hand.?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:39:02.730" Title="Microbot Alpha: how far does it consider others Microbots?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:17:10.107" Score="0" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that every card that is put onto the stack is resolved in the opposite order that it is put on (meaning the first card to be put onto a stack is the last one to be resolved), but here is my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;. That goes onto the stack. My opponent passes priority back to me. Then, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Twincast&quot;&gt;Twincast&lt;/a&gt;, and that also goes onto the stack. Would Twincast copy Lightning Bolt, effectively doing an additional 3 damage to my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, would Lightning Bolt Resolve, do 3 damage, then Twincast would resolve and do nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12734" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-24T15:52:47.583" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T15:52:47.583" Title="How does stacking and resolving work exactly?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24313" CreationDate="2015-05-24T04:30:41.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Twincast copies Lightning Bolt, dealing 3 damage to whatever target you choose, then the original Lightning Bolt resolves as usual - a total of 6 damage. The first sentence of your question pretty much explains why. To be specific (and correct the detail about priority):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt, putting it onto the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority before your opponent does. (Note that by default, it's assumed that you pass it - if you want to hang onto it, you should say so explicitly.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Twincast, targeting Lightning Bolt. (The stack now has Lightning Bolt and Twincast on it.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You and your opponent both pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Twincast resolves. It creates a copy of Lightning Bolt, optionally with a new target, and puts it on the stack. (The stack now has the original Lightning Bolt and the copy on it. Just one copy - not sure why you asked if it'd copy it twice.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You and your opponent both pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The copy resolves, dealing 3 damage to whatever target you chose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You and your opponent both pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The original resolves, dealing 3 damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record, the relevant rules about who gets priority when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is slightly important in this case because it means that you have to cast Twincast &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you see if your opponent wants to respond to Lightning Bolt; if you pass priority to them before casting Twincast and they do nothing, then you've both passed and Lightning Bolt will resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-24T15:09:26.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24312" CreationDate="2015-05-24T19:48:42.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. All minions are considered Microbots. So everything that applies to Microbots applies to all your minions in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as included in the Pretty Pretty Smash Up rules, page 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;A minion&quot; or &quot;minions&quot; means any minions in play unless stated&#xA;  otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So minions in your discard pile are NOT affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/847663/microbots&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this discussion&lt;/a&gt; on Boardgamegeek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T14:39:02.730" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:39:02.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24321" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-25T08:23:01.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Serenissima is a trading game in the Mediteranean of the 14th century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are seven trade items. Each city produces one and requires 2, 4 or 6. But there can't be any duplicates. In the early game this is not a problem, but in the end game it can be hard to fill your harbors and sell your wares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each ship has room for 5 goods or crew. More crew means a faster ship that is better defendable but with less room for goods. But you can accompany heavy loaded ships with crew loaded ships for defence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/232/serenissima-first-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;For more information&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T22:55:18.920" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:55:18.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24322" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-25T08:23:01.343" Score="0" Body="Serenissima is a trading game in the Mediteranean of the 14th century." OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T22:55:07.933" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:55:07.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4777" CreationDate="2015-05-25T12:31:40.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess Evolved Online (CEO) is so insanely complex that an AI could NEVER keep up with a skilled human player. There are 100+ different pieces and a ton of effects like magic, summoning, reflecting, swapping, auto-attack triggers, revivals, etc. and to top it off you create your own army before playing. This means the traditional method of creating chess AI fails on turn 1 - there is always 0 data on a game between your army and the enemy army because there are more possible armies than people. The only way an AI could master it is if it had access to insane amounts of processing power and brute force calculated every possibility for 50+ moves, which is exceedingly more complicated than doing the same for normal chess, and you would probably be better off using that CPU to simulate a new universe or something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/ChessEvolved&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/ChessEvolved&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12744" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T12:31:40.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24330" CreationDate="2015-05-25T19:40:27.787" Score="6" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Chairman%20Hiro&quot;&gt;Chairmain Hiro&lt;/a&gt;: Can a corp have more than 1 'Chairman Hiro' rezzed at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T23:06:45.053" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T21:22:12.917" Title="Can a corp have more than 1 'Chairman Hiro' rezzed at the same time?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-25T21:16:52.700" Score="3" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;Noone wants to play board games with me and I was wondering if you would need to change the rules at all to play with one player in Forbidden Island&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12751" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T23:49:58.527" Title="Does anyone know a good way to play Forbidden Island with one player" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24326" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24328" CreationDate="2015-05-25T21:46:20.923" Score="7" ViewCount="37210" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a legendary creature out, and I make a copy of it (such as by enchanting it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Splinter%20Twin&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt; or making a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;), do I get enters-the-battlefield effects from the creature before I have to sacrifice it to the legend rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-03-06T19:27:38.827" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T15:00:32.177" Title="Can I get an enters-the-battlefield effect out of a second legendary before I must sacrifice it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-enters-the-battlefield|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24332" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:09:36.140" Score="0" ViewCount="6746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I happen to be one lucky man who managed to get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Erebos%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Erebos, God of the Dead&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Demon%27s%20Horn&quot;&gt;Demon&amp;#39;s Horn&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staff%20of%20the%20Death%20Magus&quot;&gt;Staff of the Death Magus&lt;/a&gt;. All three were in play, but Erebus was not a creature yet as I didn't have enough devotion. His ability though, (pay one black and one colorless mana and pay 2 life: draw a card) doe's it count as a spell when I activate it, and therefore gain back the 2 life I lost from Demon's Horn and Staff of the Death Magus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&#xA;Looking at the MTG Rulebook says (some) abilities go on the stack (as spells do)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12752" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:36:01.353" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:36:01.353" Title="Is an artifact paid ability considered a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24326" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:17:50.093" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As discussed &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/legendary-rule-change-2013-05-23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;in an article discussing the recent Legendary rules change&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will allow you to somewhat mitigate the downside of drawing a second copy of a Planeswalker by playing that copy to, in effect, refresh the loyalty of a Planeswalker or to get a second enters-the-battlefield trigger on a legendary permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the rule covering Legendary permanents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5k If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player&#xA;chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the&#xA;“legend rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in order for the Legendary state-based action to be triggered, the Legendary permanents are both already on the battlefield and therefore any triggered enters the battlefield abilities (ETB) are also triggered. As the Legend rule is a state-based action, the choice of which Legendary permanent will be kept will be made before the ETB triggered abilities are put on the stack and resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-09T15:00:32.177" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T15:00:32.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24324" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:25:04.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Chairman%20Hiro&quot;&gt;Chairman Hiro&lt;/a&gt; is a unique asset (there is a diamond next to the card name designating this status).  While multiple unique cards may be installed simultaneously, only one may be rezzed at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have two Chairman Hiro's installed, and one is rezzed and the runner runs on it, you could conceivably rez the second Hiro which would cause the first one to trash itself before the runner accesses it (so long as you do this during a legal paid ability window).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:25:04.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24327" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:31:21.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is neither a spell nor black. Neither Demon's Horn's ability nor Staff of the Death Magus's ability will trigger when you activate Erebos's activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells are cards on the stack (and copies thereof). While activated abilities  are very similar to spells, they are not spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. As the first step of being cast (see rule 601, “Casting Spells”), the card becomes a spell and is moved to the top of the stack from the zone it was in, which is usually its owner’s hand. (See rule 405, “Stack.”) A spell remains on the stack as a spell until it resolves (see rule 608, “Resolving Spells and Abilities”), is countered (see rule 701.5), or otherwise leaves the stack. For more information, see section 6, “Spells, Abilities, and Effects.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1a A copy of a spell is also a spell, even if it has no card associated with it. See rule 706.10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;111.1b Some effects allow a player to cast a copy of a card; if the player does, that copy is a spell as well. See rule 706.12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, while Erobos is black, the ability on the stack has no color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2. [...] Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in order. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2a The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. [...] That ability is created on the stack as an object that’s not a card. [...] It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.3. An object’s characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:40:39.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24335" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:32:38.493" Score="2" ViewCount="3985" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I discard a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; and the &amp;quot;Shuffle into library&amp;quot; trigger goes on the stack, can I, in response, do something to bring it back from my graveyard before it gets shuffled, such as by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;ing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sharuum%20the%20Hegemon&quot;&gt;Sharuum the Hegemon&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T00:18:47.967" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T00:18:47.967" Title="Can I bring Blightsteel Colossus back to my graveyard before it gets shuffled into my library?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24333" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:52:57.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Blightsteel reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Blightsteel Colossus would be put into a graveyard from anywhere,&#xA;reveal Blightsteel Colossus and shuffle it into its owner's library&#xA;instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a replacement effect, not a triggered ability (&amp;quot;instead&amp;quot; is the giveaway).  Consequently, it doesn't use the stack, and can't be responded to.  Additionally, Blightsteel never actually goes to the graveyard, and so isn't ever there to be a valid target for Sharuum's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Serra Avatar has a different variant of the ability that you could respond to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Serra Avatar is put into a graveyard from anywhere, shuffle it&#xA;into its owner's library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because this has the word &amp;quot;when&amp;quot;, it is a triggered ability, and you could resurrect Serra Avatar by using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Artisan%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Artisan of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doomed%20Necromancer&quot;&gt;Doomed Necromancer&lt;/a&gt;, or some other instant speed resurrection ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T22:59:26.997" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:59:26.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24333" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:53:35.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Brightsteel Colossus does not have any triggered abilities. Those start with &amp;quot;when&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;whenever&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;at&amp;quot;. Its last ability is a static ability that creates a replacement effect. You can tell because it uses &amp;quot;instead&amp;quot;. It changes what it means to discard Brightsteel Colossus. Brightsteel Colossus never enters the graveyard when it is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.3c Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and include (and usually begin with) the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” Whenever the trigger event occurs, the ability is put on the stack the next time a player would receive priority and stays there until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen—they aren’t locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like “shields” around whatever they’re affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.6. If an event is replaced, it never happens. A modified event occurs instead [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T22:53:35.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24325" CreationDate="2015-05-25T22:58:21.087" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Forbidden Island, the players have no secrets from each other. There is also no real-time component to the game or other physical limitation that benefit from multiple real players. As such, you can simply play alone by playing with more than one character. Each character has its own hand and plays in turn as if they were played by different people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-25T23:49:58.527" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T23:49:58.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24338" CreationDate="2015-05-25T23:00:20.383" Score="1" ViewCount="538" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humility&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; effect cards in the graveyard? (EX. If Humility in play, can I discard &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; without the shuffle?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T00:16:44.310" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T00:16:44.310" Title="Does Humility affect the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24337" CreationDate="2015-05-25T23:02:49.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it only affects creatures, which is to say creature cards and tokens on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-25T23:02:49.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24196" CreationDate="2015-05-26T00:12:27.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest piece of strategy is knowing how to move a pile of cards from one stack to the next.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic algorithm is a recursive algorithm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move n cards from stack a to stack b, you need to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;move the n-1 cards from stack a to stack c&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;move the nth card to stack b &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;move the n-1 cards from stack c to stack b.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To move a stack of three from a to b you need to move the two cards from a to c.   To move the two cards from a to c you need to move the one card from a to b.  Move the second card from a to c.  Move the first card from b to c.  Move the third card from a to b.  To move the two cards from c to b, we need to move the first card from c to a.  Move the second card from c to b.  Move the first card from a to b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key strategy is to keep one ordered stack.  When a new card is unearthed, put it in to the stack in the order that it belongs by moving your stack that belongs on top of the new card to it and then moving it to the top of your ordered stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy will not likely lead you always to the shortest solution but will lead you to a correct solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more basic strategies for the Towers of Hanoi peg and disc game on the Wikipedia article &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tower_of_Hanoi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tower_of_Hanoi&lt;/a&gt; but I'm not sure how explicitly applicable they are to this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T00:12:27.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24341" CreationDate="2015-05-26T01:10:28.240" Score="5" ViewCount="1439" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am playing a Sharuum the Hegemon EDH deck, can I let my commander go to the graveyard, exile it under &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; and then put it into the command zone but still have it imprinted, or does the fact that that is a replacement effect make it so it isn't imprinted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T05:01:26.520" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T05:01:26.520" Title="Can I imprint my Commander onto Mimic Vat, and still take it back to the Command Zone?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24340" CreationDate="2015-05-26T01:24:11.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;607.2a If an object has an activated or triggered ability printed on it that instructs a player to exile one or more cards and an ability printed on it that refers either to “the exiled cards” or to cards “exiled with [this object],” these abilities are linked. The second ability refers only to cards in the exile zone that were put there as a result of an instruction to exile them in the first ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no cards in the exile zone, so there is nothing to copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T01:24:11.757" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24343" CreationDate="2015-05-26T02:44:15.730" Score="-1" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a card that gives x power to a creature until end of turn, where x is the number of creature cards in the graveyard. And then I take back a creature card from my graveyard using some effect. Does the value of x change along with it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T03:03:27.110" Title="can the value of x change in a turn" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24342" CreationDate="2015-05-26T03:03:27.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2d If a resolving spell or ability that creates a continuous effect contains a variable such as X, the value of that variable is determined only once, on resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you said &amp;quot;until end of turn&amp;quot;, I'm assuming that you are talking about casting a spell or activating an ability that has such text, in which case this applies. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strength%20of%20Cedars&quot;&gt;Strength of Cedars&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you have a permanent on the battlefield that says &amp;quot;creatures you have get +x/0, where x is the number of creature cards in your graveyard&amp;quot;, then it is a static ability, and the value of x will change every time your graveyard changes. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wreath%20of%20Geists&quot;&gt;Wreath of Geists&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T03:03:27.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24346" CreationDate="2015-05-26T03:08:50.093" Score="2" ViewCount="323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voice of Ra states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may cast and exhaust to gain +1 to all skill checks for the rest of this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that all skill checks for the caster, or for all investigators?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12465" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:20:58.340" Title="Voice of Ra: does &quot;all skill checks&quot; apply to all players or just the caster?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24344" CreationDate="2015-05-26T03:47:57.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's just the caster, i.e. the &quot;you&quot; at the beginning of the sentence. Same way casting Wither or wielding a weapon only helps your combat checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T03:47:57.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24302" CreationDate="2015-05-26T11:28:27.913" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the difficulty on changes with which enemy you fight. The game scales that it stays the same difficulty with the same enemy against a different amount of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played several enemies against a different size of group. We won the first time with a group of 3 and lost the second time with a group of 5 against enemy A. With enemy B we lost with a group of 4 but won with a group of 7. In my experience the amount of players don't change the difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T11:28:27.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24302" CreationDate="2015-05-26T12:53:12.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The jump from 4 players to 5 players seems to makes the game tougher. While stronger monster surges start at 3 players, it's easier to cover the entire world with a 4 player team. I find gates spawning is the most dangerous issue that needs to be dealt with since leaving gates open will help advance doom. Having extra monsters is also bad, but some monsters will sit quietly until you go deal with them. A few cards look at how many monsters are on the map, so you don't want to let the total number of monsters to get to hight. That being said, monsters that move to expedition locations often don't have retribution effects and tend to be ignored in many of the games I've played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have Akachi as one of your investigators, she can control where the next gate spawns by using her ability to look at the top two gate locations and putting one of them on top of the stack and one on the bottom. I'm not sure how powerful this strategy is, but it certainly is an option in a four player game. Once you get that second gate spawning, it's no longer an effective strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to alter the difficulty of the game and make it easier, I suggest altering the mythos deck and removing the hard mythos cards that have tentacles. Then build your mythos deck from the remaining cards. To make the game harder, you can remove all of the easy mythos cards. The mythos cards that come up heavily effect the difficulty of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T12:53:12.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24351" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:05:49.117" Score="7" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mimic%20Vat&quot;&gt;Mimic Vat&lt;/a&gt; has two abilities. The one I am concerned with is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imprint — Whenever a nontoken creature dies, you may exile that card. If you do, return each other card exiled with Mimic Vat to its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony controls his commander, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ezuri%2C%20Renegade%20Leader&quot;&gt;Ezuri, Renegade Leader&lt;/a&gt;. He also controls Mimic Vat with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; imprinted. The following occurs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ezuri dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mimic Vat triggers and resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anthony chooses to Exile Ezuri&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anthony replaces the event, &amp;quot;exile that card&amp;quot;, by sending Ezuri to the Command zone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are not done following Mimic Vat's instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do, return each other card exiled with Mimic Vat to its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where I get confused. I see two possible interpretations of &amp;quot;If you do&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;If you [exile that card], ...&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;If you [choose to exile that card], ...&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which interpretation is correct? Have we satisfied the condition? Does Llanowar Elves end up in its owner's graveyard, or does it remain in exile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T17:40:59.960" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T23:25:56.703" Title="What exactly does the &quot;If you do [...]&quot; clause on Mimic Vat check for?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24350" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:12:29.007" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the current Commander rules, there is no longer the mentioned replacement effect. Instead, if the commander moves to the graveyard or exile, its owner can then move it to the command zone as a state-based action afterward [&lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Commander_(format)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;CR 903.9&lt;/a&gt;]. That simplifies this scenario considerably: now you choose to exile the commander, &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you do exile the commander, and then it moves to the command zone afterward. The condition is satisfied, and the Llanowar Elves moves to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Under the previous Commander rules, this worked as follows:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct interpretation is the second option. You have satisfied the condition, and Llanowar Elves ends up in its owner's graveyard. This is because &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Cost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 117.12&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, &amp;quot;[Do something]. If [a player] [does or doesn't], [effect].&amp;quot; or &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;[A player] may [do something]. If [that player] [does or doesn't], [effect].&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; The action [do something] is a cost, paid when the spell or ability resolves. &lt;strong&gt;The &amp;quot;If [a player] [does or doesn't]&amp;quot; clause checks whether the player chose to pay an optional cost or started to pay a mandatory cost, &lt;em&gt;regardless of what events actually occurred.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in addition, rule 117.11 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actions performed when paying a cost may be modified by effects. &lt;strong&gt;Even if they are, meaning the actions that are performed don't match the actions that are called for, the cost has still been paid.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this specific scenario, the cost of moving Ezuri to the exile zone is replaced by moving it to the command zone, but the cost still counts as paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2021-02-12T23:25:56.703" LastActivityDate="2021-02-12T23:25:56.703" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24359" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:36:13.887" Score="4" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thanks for reading: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mushin No shin&lt;/a&gt; can be used to advance cards; I assume that that these &#xA;cards are only assets, upgrades or agendas that can be advanced. Does this mean that I can place advancement tokens on assets or upgrades that cannot be advanced, to trick the runner? Or is this move not legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suman&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T21:27:05.377" Title="Can Mushin No Shin be played on any card?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24350" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:41:41.947" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It simply checks the choice you made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;117.12. Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, &amp;quot;[Do something]. If [a player] [does or doesn't], [effect].&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;[A player] may [do something]. If [that player] [does or doesn't], [effect].&amp;quot; The action [do something] is a cost, paid when the spell or ability resolves. The &amp;quot;If [a player] [does or doesn't]&amp;quot; clause &lt;strong&gt;checks whether the player chose to pay an optional cost or started to pay a mandatory cost&lt;/strong&gt;, regardless of what events actually occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if Ezuri wasn't exiled, the condition would still met because you chose to exile it, so Llanowar Elves does end up in its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example you gave is rather poor because Ezuri was exiled in your scenario. While it didn't enter the Exile zone, it was exiled because it's not the &lt;em&gt;exile&lt;/em&gt; action that was replaced but the &lt;em&gt;put into exile&lt;/em&gt; action&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. The following scenario is a better example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You deal combat damage with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abomination%20of%20Gudul&quot;&gt;Abomination of Gudul&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have an empty library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You chose to draw a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are normally forbidden to take an illegal or impossible action, but you are allowed to chose to draw a card even when it's illegal or impossible to draw a card&lt;sup&gt;[CR 608.2d]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, you would have to discard a card because you chose to draw a card even though you couldn't perform the action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For example, if you were to sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Appeasement&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt; would allow you to draw a card even though Blightsteel Colossus never reached your graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T20:17:07.453" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T20:17:07.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24360" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:42:55.223" Score="7" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say we have the following setup in this order: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;1) ICE: &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=data%20mine&quot;&gt;Data mine.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;2) Asset: &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=melange&quot;&gt;Melange Mining Corp.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is I have a remote server, which consists of 1 ice and 1 asset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Runner encounters the ICE. The runner loses 1 card, and survives the encounter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there is no 'End the run' subroutine, can the runner continue to access the asset once I trash the ice? ( according to the rule of this ICE, I have to trash the ice once the subroutine fires )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Suman &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T18:53:46.280" Title="When Data mine is triggered, if the runner survives this ice, can (s)he/other still continue?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24358" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:48:15.520" Score="6" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a runner uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=inside%20job&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inside Job&lt;/a&gt;, does the runner only bypass the first 'rezzed' piece of ice, since the card text says 'bypass the first piece of ice &lt;em&gt;encountered&lt;/em&gt; during the run.' ? ( emphasis added) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, does that mean if the corp. does not rez any ice, 'Inside Job' has no effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T14:02:12.413" Title="How exactly does 'Inside Job' work?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24357" CreationDate="2015-05-26T15:53:39.250" Score="4" ViewCount="232" Body="&lt;p&gt;To rez &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=archer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Archer&lt;/a&gt;, I need to forfeit an agenda. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Medical Breakthrough&lt;/a&gt; has the ability of reducing each subsequent Medical Breakthrough's advancement requirement by 1; whether it's in the runners or corps score area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, essentially, I wanted to confirm whether forfeited cards leave the score area, and hence in this case, not have an effect on future cards? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12750" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T16:20:12.570" Title="Does Medical Breakthrough still have its effect when forfeited for rezzing Archer?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24356" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:20:12.570" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing about Medical Breakthrough that would function differently than other agendas upon forfeit.  Forfeited agendas no longer affect the game either for points or for their abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Details&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Medical Breakthrough's ability is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lower the advancement requirement of each Medical Breakthrough by 1.&#xA;This ability is active even while Medical Breakthrough is in the&#xA;Runner's score area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that the installed copy of Medical Breakthrough looks to see how many Medical Breakthroughs are in the score area.  Each Medical Breakthrough in the score area has an ability that modifies the advancement requirement of the installed copy.  However, this doesn't matter, because Medical Breakthrough leaves the score area when it is forfeited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, from the core rules, page 22:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Forfeiting Agendas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some card abilities require the Corporation or Runner to forfeit an agenda. When a player forfeits an agenda, he&#xA;selects any agenda in his score area and permanently removes it from&#xA;the game (it does not go to Archives or the heap). He no longer scores&#xA;points for the forfeited agenda.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the Medical Breakthrough is removed from the game, it is in neither player's score area and its ability is no longer active:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While an agenda is in the Corporation’s score area, it is active and&#xA;adds its agenda points to his score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constant Abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Constant abilities continually affect the game as long as &lt;strong&gt;the card&#xA;they appear on is active&lt;/strong&gt; and any other specified conditions are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T16:20:12.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24355" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:32:33.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summary: Inside Job bypasses the first piece of face up ice on a server, regardless of when that was rezzed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: there are some effects that can cause to to encounter ice that hasn't been installed, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/09013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Archangel&lt;/a&gt;, or that is installed on &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03021&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Awakening Center&lt;/a&gt;.  These can also be bypassed with Inside Job if the server has no rezzed ice in front of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific rule for encountering ice is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the approached piece of ice is rezzed after the Corporation has the&#xA;  opportunity to rez cards, then the Runner encounters it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion here probably comes from the fact that &quot;rezzed&quot; is both an adjective and a verb, depending on context.  In this particular piece of rules, we are dealing with the adjectival form.  Let me translate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the approached piece of ice is [&lt;strong&gt;face up&lt;/strong&gt;] after the Corporation has the&#xA;  opportunity to [&lt;strong&gt;turn cards face up&lt;/strong&gt;], then the Runner encounters it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ice is face up, it is encountered.  This includes ice that has been turned face up on previous runs/turns.  The reason for the extra bits of the sentence is to clarify that even if the ice was rezzed &lt;strong&gt;just now&lt;/strong&gt;, it is still encountered (see the run structure chart at the end of the rulebook).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stop Inside Job, try effects that prevent bypassing, like the ability on Guard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-12T14:02:12.413" LastActivityDate="2018-01-12T14:02:12.413" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24352" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:35:31.227" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Install an asset, agenda, or upgrade from HQ in a new remote server.&#xA;  Place 3 advancement tokens on that card. You cannot score or rez that&#xA;  card until your next turn begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike cards like &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01100&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shipment from Kaguya&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mushin No Shin&lt;/a&gt; has no restriction here that the card must be a card that can be advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, any card that can be installed in a remote server, namely any Agenda, Asset, or Upgrade, is a valid choice.  For example, you could use Mushin No Shin on a &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01070&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Snare!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-11T21:27:05.377" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T21:27:05.377" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24354" CreationDate="2015-05-26T16:42:35.233" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Core rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the Runner breaks all of the ice’s subroutines and/or any&#xA;  effects from unbroken subroutines resolve without ending the run, he&#xA;  has passed that piece of ice. He then continues the run by either&#xA;  approaching the next piece of ice protecting the server or proceeding&#xA;  to the Access phase if there is no more ice to approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data Mine doesn't end the run, so the run continues.  In you example, the runner would go on to access Melange Mining Corp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It trashes itself as part of its ability because trap ice cards are designed to be hard to break but only hit once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="2714" LastEditDate="2015-05-26T18:53:46.280" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T18:53:46.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-26T18:10:21.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the propriety depends on what the other players are doing and what you've agreed upon beforehand. If the other players appear to emphasize quick play and thinking intuitively, then do it; if one or two are obviously mathing everything out and slowing the game to an extremely deliberate pace, then follow to give yourself a level playing ground. Afterward, make your own decision on whether the play style of the group is something that fits your opinion on how the game should be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a larger issue, beware of games where the primary thing that makes it tick is the &lt;em&gt;semi-secret&lt;/em&gt; information, where having a better memory of things contributes significantly to your chances of winning. The more reliant the game is on this, the more this issue can be a sore note (and in my opinion, the likelier that the game was lazily designed, and the more I should avoid it and look for a better game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T18:10:21.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24363" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24371" CreationDate="2015-05-26T18:44:12.233" Score="3" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the concept of what the Alien Die does.  Every time someone rolls for something, they check the Alien Die against the current threat level.  If the threat is 1, the Alien Die indicates a failure on 1 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know is when that die resets.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm the Science Officer and I am researching Tech 1 (since you have to go in order from 1 to 3).  I roll once and get 1 success.  I need three.  I press my luck and increase the threat.  I roll again and get one more success.  Now comes my question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Alien Die ends up greater than the threat and I stop, what happens to the threat when I go to the next research item?&#xA;If the Alien Die ends up greater than the threat and I keep going, and then I succeed, what happens to the threat when I go to the next research item?&#xA;If the Alien Die ends up less than or equal to the threat, what happens to the threat when I go to the next research item?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This applies to Base Defense, Global Defense, and Missions as well.  What happens per continent, per alien, and per mission task?  I don't know if the threat ever resets itself during those times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T21:34:23.703" Title="When does the Alien Die reset?" Tags="|xcom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18313" CreationDate="2015-05-26T18:49:24.010" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you have a link for where the designer stated this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody I know cares about sorting out the cards to switch back to a base-game scenario. The only concern with using De Profundis with the base game is to impose a 3-card hand limit on the Demon player's Event Cards (because the expansion cards are more powerful). You also probably don't want to use the Hellhounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12557" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T18:49:24.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T19:17:28.273" Score="2" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt; exile a manifested creature regardless if it's an actual creature card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T14:31:22.760" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T14:31:22.760" Title="Anger of the Gods vs Manifest creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24365" CreationDate="2015-05-26T19:27:42.177" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, a face-down creature will be exiled instead of going to the graveyard, even if it would not be a creature card if it were face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purpose of Anger of the Gods' ability, all that matters is that the permanent was a creature when it took the damage. To be specific, when Anger of the Gods resolves, it deals damage to each creature (possibly modified by replacement and prevention effects), and then creates a replacement effect for each creature it dealt damage to. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 608.2i&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an ability's effect refers to a specific untargeted object that has been previously referred to by that ability's cost or trigger condition, it still affects that object even if the object has changed characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the &amp;quot;specific untargeted object&amp;quot; is &amp;quot;a creature dealt damage this way.&amp;quot; So, for the rest of the turn, Anger of the Gods replaces death with exile for each permanent that was a creature when Anger of the Gods dealt the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation from the question, play proceeds as follows (assuming for simplicity that the manifested creature is the only creature):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anger of the Gods resolves and deals 3 damage to the face-down creature. It then creates a replacement effect: if that object would die this turn, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are checked. The face-down creature has lethal damage marked on it, so it dies. Anger of the Gods' replacement effect applies, so it is exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would still be true if it had a greater toughness and died later in the turn to other damage, or was destroyed by a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder&quot;&gt;Murder&lt;/a&gt;, or even if it got enchanted by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Song%20of%20the%20Dryads&quot;&gt;Song of the Dryads&lt;/a&gt; and then died to a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strip%20Mine&quot;&gt;Strip Mine&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T02:05:24.250" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T02:05:24.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24365" CreationDate="2015-05-26T19:28:06.713" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anger of the Gods exiles creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manifested cards are creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.31a To manifest a card, turn it face down. It becomes a 2/2 face-down creature card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, Anger of the Gods will exile manifested cards (if they were dealt damage by it and would die that turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T13:23:39.877" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T13:23:39.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24370" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-26T19:56:46.937" Score="4" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your opponent hits one of your models with a D strength weapon, rolls on the table and gets a 'Seriously Wounded' result, then rolls 3 for the number of wounds. How many saving throws do I roll? Is it 1 save for the 1 hit or 3 saves for each of the 3 wounds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12388" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T16:44:48.130" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T18:39:32.740" Title="Saving throws against Destroyer weapons" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24363" CreationDate="2015-05-26T21:34:23.703" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The alien die resets between tasks.  The only exceptions are that you don't reset between mission tasks, and you don't reset between base defense tasks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You reset between each science task and each global defense task, so you'll start each science card and each continent at 1.  For missions and base defense, you start the first one at 1, but from then on it will keep increasing until you move to the next type of task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-05-26T21:34:23.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="998" CreationDate="2015-05-27T01:14:47.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My recommendation would be to switch the seating every few turns/times around the table.  Not so often that it slows down the game, but just enough that nobody sits next to the less experienced player for a time that would give them a major advantage.  Just my opinion on the topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8451" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T01:14:47.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24377" CreationDate="2015-05-27T08:39:50.513" Score="2" ViewCount="594" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a board game where, as more sections of the board are added, tokens are randomly placed on the new board section. Each board section is 2'×1' (24&quot;×12&quot;), so we using dice to randomise coordinates: 4d6 for the X coordinate and 2d6 for the Y coordinate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the board &lt;em&gt;is not&lt;/em&gt; in a grid; the dice results just correspond to inch measurements on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some reason this system doesn't seem to work very well, as tokens tend to be grouped together rather than spreading evenly. Are there better ways to distribute the tokens more evenly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12568" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T13:00:58.130" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T22:04:18.527" Title="Randomly but Evenly Distributing Tokens on a Board" Tags="|game-design|dice|random|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24375" CreationDate="2015-05-27T09:14:13.200" Score="2" ViewCount="1164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Magic 2015 and I noticed an interaction I didn't expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Young%20Pyromancer&quot;&gt;Young Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt; out and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fling&quot;&gt;Fling&lt;/a&gt;, sacrificing the Pyromancer. The game triggered Young Pyromancer's effect and put a token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand this. Since the sacrifice is part of the cost of Fling, shouldn't the Pyromancer already be in the graveyard before Fling reaches the state of &amp;quot;having been cast&amp;quot;, meaning that the token shouldn't exist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something I'm missing, or is it a bug in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T09:37:05.517" Title="Triggering &quot;On Cast&quot; Effects When Sacrificing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-05-27T15:32:11.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24374" CreationDate="2015-05-27T09:37:05.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You should not have gotten a token&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2a-g are the steps of announcing the spell, choosing targets, &lt;strong&gt;paying costs such as sacrificing creatures&lt;/strong&gt;, and so on. By the time the &quot;casting a spell&quot; occurs, Young Pyromancer is no longer on the battlefield and its ability would not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T09:37:05.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24373" CreationDate="2015-05-27T09:48:21.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The more dice you use to generate a single random value, the closer each random value will be to a certain average. You can see this happening in Catan: rolling two dice results in a lot more sevens than twos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DNhaf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Got this from Math SE&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do this with 4 dice, almost everything will be centered around the 14th coordinate. If you don't mind some normalization, you could use 2d12 instead of 4d6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could give the players some say in where the pieces are placed. There are many ways in which you could do this, either before or after the dice are rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want 'complete' randomness with dice, you'll need a 1d10 and a 1d20, or two decks of numbered cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T09:48:21.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24373" CreationDate="2015-05-27T10:26:29.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, after some discussion, this is the idea we're going with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We will create 12 (not concrete yet) set layouts for tokens that can be applied to any given board section. These layouts will be drawn onto cards and shuffled together to make a deck. When the game is started and the Board is tiles are placed, a card is drawn for each section and tokens will be placed on the section as depicted by the card giving a semi-random placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12568" LastEditorUserId="12568" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T12:48:30.200" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:48:30.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24373" CreationDate="2015-05-27T12:48:54.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I understand your question correctly, you want a way to determine terrain on a X by Y grid such that a logical terrain layout is created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start with putting the upper left square first (for example a mountain). Next you determine the tile to the right (methods below). Continue until you reach the right end. Then use the same method to find the tiles below the first row. Continue until the board is filled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two possible methods:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use a table with probabilities using dice. For example, a mountain has 40% chance for another mountain, 30% for hills and so on. &#xA;This method is a bit cumbersome.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use several stacks of tiles one for each terrain type. So if you want a tile next to a mountain, use the mountain stack. If that is a hill, use the hill stack. This method is faster but requires more tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T12:48:54.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24370" CreationDate="2015-05-27T15:08:22.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You roll one save against the D hit. That one hit does D3 wounds - it doesn't do D3 hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12770" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T15:08:22.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24398" CreationDate="2015-05-27T15:58:32.557" Score="1" ViewCount="1168" Body="&lt;p&gt;My feeling is that, until my characters are boosted quite significantly with bonuses, re-rolls, and preferably a blessing, many of the monsters are at best a coin flip to beat in a single monster encounter and on average can take multiple turns, taxing precious moves/options, and at worst tax the player's health and sanity. Usually I simply avoid monsters and &quot;live and let live&quot; when possible, and I turn to using Tokyo encounter cards which lean toward &quot;defeat monsters&quot; to surgically remove threats. Camping at Tokyo seems the way to go to address monsters unless efficiently save for specific cases such as having a ridiculously boosted character or someone who can execute powerful moves to local monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for opinions on this and also other general tactics toward dealing with monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:41:12.197" Title="Monster encounter tactics" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24383" CreationDate="2015-05-27T16:40:47.143" Score="9" ViewCount="1312" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice and Nicholas each control five &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;s. Each graveyard has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Canker%20Abomination&quot;&gt;Canker Abomination&lt;/a&gt; and nothing else. Alice casts and resolves &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exhume&quot;&gt;Exhume&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many Canker Abominations remain on the battlefield after state-based actions are checked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, what happens when multiple permanents with &amp;quot;as [this object] enters the battlefield&amp;quot; effects enter at the same time, specifically when the act of entering would change the board state in a way the effect cares about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T13:14:37.883" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T13:14:37.883" Title="What happens when multiple Canker Abominations enter the battlefield simultaneously?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24382" CreationDate="2015-05-27T16:56:42.983" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;After Exhume resolves, there are two Canker Abominations on the battlefield, each with 5 -1/-1 counters. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 101.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player's left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. &lt;strong&gt;Then the actions happen simultaneously.&lt;/strong&gt; This rule is often referred to as the &amp;quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&amp;quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Canker Abomination's ability says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As Canker Abomination enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;, choose an opponent. &lt;strong&gt;Canker Abomination enters the battlefield with&lt;/strong&gt; a -1/-1 counter on it for each creature that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a replacement effect, as described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_Effect&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;614.1c&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;, another creature with an enters-the-battlefield replacement effect, has a ruling on Gatherer that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Clone somehow enters the battlefield at the same time as another creature, Clone can't become a copy of that creature. &lt;strong&gt;You may only choose a creature that's already on the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when multiple permanents enter the battlefield simultaneously, they do not see each other when applying replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the spell resolves like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exhume starts to resolve. Each player must choose a permanent in their graveyard to put on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice chooses her Canker Abomination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nicholas chooses his Canker Abomination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice chooses Nicholas for her Canker Abomination's ability. It will enter with 5 -1/-1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nicholas chooses Alice for his Canker Abomination's ability. It will enter with 5 -1/-1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both Canker Abominations enter simultaneously, each with 5 -1/-1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-27T23:20:47.153" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T23:20:47.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24289" CreationDate="2015-05-27T17:06:27.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my particular view, there are two kinds of information in games.  &lt;strong&gt;Hidden&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Known&lt;/strong&gt;.  Things which are &lt;strong&gt;hidden&lt;/strong&gt; you do not know, and methods of gaining that information are limited to whatever rules the game supplies.  Things which are &lt;strong&gt;known&lt;/strong&gt;, you already know.  Nobody would claim that it is unethical to remember that which you know.  Further, outside of certain very specific games (i.e., the classic &quot;&lt;em&gt;Memory&lt;/em&gt;&quot;) the goal of the game is not to out-memorize your opponent.  Most games center on decision making and weighing odds and risks.  So I would say that as long as your memory (be it in your head, on your notepad, on your laptop, whatever) does not bog down or ruin the gameplay for others (i.e., it is non-intrusive and doesn't result in you constantly asking harassing questions) that it is perfectly acceptable.  Note that the game itself defines methods of moving information from &lt;strong&gt;Hidden&lt;/strong&gt; to &lt;strong&gt;Known&lt;/strong&gt;, and any method that is not laid out in the rules is clearly cheating (i.e., peeking at cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address some of the other points raised regarding other games: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1- I would be in favor of letting someone use an odds calculator in &lt;em&gt;Risk&lt;/em&gt;.  The point of the game isn't &quot;I am better at calculating odds than you&quot;, it's &quot;I am going to take some &lt;em&gt;Risk&lt;/em&gt;s, whereby I know certain actions are risky and others are less so, and I must choose what level or tolerance I have for those risks based on how they tie into my grand strategem.&quot;  Allowing a player to use an odds calculator allows them to make a more informed decision, which makes the game more strategic and enjoyable for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2- Many players play &lt;em&gt;Poker&lt;/em&gt; while holding little index cards on them that list the hands in order of probability.  The core gameplay elements in &lt;em&gt;Poker&lt;/em&gt; involve the secret information of what's in the opposing hands, and how likely you feel your hand is to win on that basis.  Knowing how likely any particular combination is merely puts you in a position to make an informed decision, thereby elevating the overall level of gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2015-05-27T17:06:27.180" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24387" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-27T20:24:44.680" Score="9" ViewCount="1486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm working on making my own card game, and I'm wondering how to approach picking a particular font. I know that this is partially subjective, however, I also know that from a designer's stand point this can be very technical and methodical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone have a 'best practice' for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12776" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T21:10:06.537" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T22:41:18.937" Title="Designing - How do you approach finding the right font for your game?" Tags="|game-design|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24387" CreationDate="2015-05-28T06:08:13.803" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I've put out &lt;a href=&quot;http://lumenaris.com/games.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;games&lt;/a&gt; in the past, there have usually been two goals in font selection:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fonts that are easy to read at the angle the player will be looking from.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fonts that evoke the setting of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/134419/golden-wilderness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Golden Wilderness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is set in colonial California, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://iginomarini.com/fell/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a typeface that was widely used in the 1700s&lt;/a&gt; helps evoke the setting.  There's basically nothing you need to read during the game that isn't upright and in your hand (and that you have plenty of time to read), so readability isn't the issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UjExb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Igino Marini&amp;#39;s DW Pica&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/173064/leaving-earth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Leaving Earth&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, on the other hand, has many cards sitting all around the table that need to be understood by the players.  Readability helps the game play more smoothly, so a clean font that's easy to read from multiple angles is needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ycEWk.png&quot; alt=&quot;Liberation Sans&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which particular fonts meet these criteria for your game all depends on the specifics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Acquiring those fonts is another matter.  There are plenty of free fonts out there, but don't be afraid to spend a little money on a good, professional font.  The best professional fonts are designed with an eye for many tiny details (like kerning and ligatures) that you (assuming you're not a typographer) shouldn't have to worry about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just using a font for a bit of flavor, things like kerning might not matter too much (though it pains a typography enthusiast like me to say it).  If you're using a font for your main title/logo, or for extended blocks of reading material, those small details matter much more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T22:41:18.937" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T22:41:18.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24391" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-28T07:58:20.247" Score="1" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Machi Koro (base game), finding an optimal strategy depends on the number of players involved, since you take turns rolling the dice. Green and purple buildings are only activated when you roll the dice, red buildings only by your opponents and blue by every player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a two player game, most of the strategies I've come up with hinge on using green buildings. In a four player game, blue and red are dominant. But what about 3 players? Is there an optimal strategy, or are all options considered equal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess I'm looking for a list of buildings with the highest expected return rate in a 3 player game (unless you think expected return is not the primary metric for choosing your buildings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T16:38:19.953" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T17:44:03.633" Title="Most important buildings in 3 player version" Tags="|machi-koro|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24401" CreationDate="2015-05-28T08:05:09.160" Score="3" ViewCount="911" Body="&lt;p&gt;The objective of the game (base game) is to be the first to build all four land marks. For fear of being stolen from or falling behind, I tend to buy them by order of increasing cost. If at one point I can afford more than one at the same time, I will buy the most expensive one. This works alright, but I've never really considered changing my strategy before&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there situations where this is not a feasible strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T09:18:41.380" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T19:31:49.503" Title="Order of building landmarks in Machi Koro" Tags="|machi-koro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24393" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-28T08:45:42.140" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T08:45:42.140" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T08:45:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24394" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-28T08:45:42.140" Score="0" Body="Be the first mayor to complete your city by building all four landmarks. A dice rolling game for 2-4 players." OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:22:26.007" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:22:26.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24396" CreationDate="2015-05-28T10:54:04.777" Score="5" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most recent iteration of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cinder%20Wall&quot;&gt;Cinder Wall&lt;/a&gt; has the creature type &amp;quot;Wall&amp;quot; and has Defender. However, the Weatherlight print of this card stood by the old rules where Wall creatures couldn't attack, so it doesn't have the Defender keyword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use a Weatherlight edition of this card, can it attack, or does the fact that its errata gave it Defender mean that older prints would also have it even if they do not say so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12781" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:04:23.107" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:31:42.247" Title="Is an old edition of Cinder Wall able to attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24395" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:09:32.383" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No; Oracle is the authorative source of card wordings.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive Rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official text on all versions of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cinder%20Wall&quot;&gt;Cinder Wall&lt;/a&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defender &lt;br&gt;&#xA;When Cinder Wall blocks, destroy it at end of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Wall&amp;quot; specifically is mentioned in the Glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wall&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature type with no particular rules meaning. Older cards with the Wall creature type but without defender had an unwritten ability that precluded them from attacking. Those cards have received errata in the Oracle card reference to have defender. Some older cards that referenced the Wall creature type have also received errata. See Defender.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T13:01:53.500" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T13:01:53.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24395" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:10:01.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't really matter what is printed on the card, since according to the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;108.1&lt;/strong&gt;. Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Oracle text for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cinder%20Wall&quot;&gt;Cinder Wall&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defender&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Cinder Wall blocks, destroy it at end of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:10:01.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24381" CreationDate="2015-05-28T11:41:12.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The monster pile is pretty full of things that will easily take a few turns to kill.  That's intended in this game, as Eldritch Horror is much less about monster killing and a lot more about mystery solving.  There are a few Old Ones where you will have to worry about the monsters with, but you generally don't have to keep killing monsters all over the place.  The thing you DO need to do is close those damn portals before the doom track gets too high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your low-level monsters (cultists, maniacs, zombies) are easy enough to deal with one-on-one, even if you're not all powered up.  It's the large ones, like Dark Young, you have to worry about.  And if a Star Spawn is sitting in front of a gate you have to close, you can team up on that thing to try and take it down.  Get everyone to the monster that you need to deal with and have them start to throw everything they have at it.  I mean, when you look at what you're trying to deal with, you shouldn't be taking on a Star Spawn by yourself anyways.  That thing's as big as a house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it is true that you need to get the right items to start taking some of this stuff on.  That's why I like playing with people that start with weapons or as Charley Cain.  With Cain, you can basically airdrop resources to people that need it the most (and this goes for things other then monster slaying).  Getting people the right cards when they need it helps to clear away unwanted monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Early game, you should be focused on getting at least one mystery solved and ignoring monsters for a while (even if it's the Black Goat).  Once you have something solved, you have more time to deal with picking up resources.  Usually have one or two people on monster stomping duty, buying up whatever items they can, while everyone else tries to manage the doom track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T11:41:12.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24399" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:34:49.343" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T18:34:49.343" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T18:34:49.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24400" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-05-28T18:34:49.343" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding games that may be played for gambling purposes in a casino." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T19:25:25.537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T19:25:25.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24392" CreationDate="2015-05-28T19:31:49.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel there are often times where considering a more detailed approach can help squeeze more optimal play. The base game has 4 cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Train Station (4) : Roll 1 or 2 dice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shopping Mall (10) : Each Cafe/Bakery type earns +1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Amusement Park (16) : Doubles grant an extra turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio Tower (22) : You may re-roll each turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all characteristically different. The train station opens up the opportunity to access 7-12 roll values which may be something you want or something you &lt;em&gt;very much&lt;/em&gt; don't want if others have cards with these values. Definitely do not buy this cheap card on a whim because you may be wasting 4 good coins that could be used elsewhere.  Notice that even if you do not have cards with 7-12, you may want this one just to keep opponents with many 1-3 valued cards from getting any hits at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Shopping Mall is clearly very dependent on your holdings of cafe bakery types. For what could be as little as 1 full round around the table more you, you could potentially afford the Amusement Park, and then further the Radio Tower, so again do not buy the Mall simply because it's affordable unless you feel it strongly increases many cards in your holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would in general gloss over the Amusement Park and go straight for the Radio Tower typically, as for 6 coins more, having the power to retry your roll every turn is far more powerful than occasionally getting doubles which happens 1 in 6 rolls. With the ability to re-roll, consider how much more attractive that looks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T19:31:49.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11529" CreationDate="2015-05-28T21:48:30.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Contra the others posting here, I don't think there is much to be gained by pretending to be something you're not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outlaws: No one except an Outlaw will shoot at the Sheriff, which means that if the Outlaws hold their fire, the Sheriff will sit there unhurt while everyone else gets whittled down. At the same time, the Outlaws' best bet is to concentrate fire and overwhelm the Sheriff's ability to Missed! and Beer their attacks. Therefore, your best play is to open fire as soon as all Outlaws are able to hit the Sheriff, and keep shooting till the Sheriff dies. This of course means revealing yourselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheriff: Everyone knows who you are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deputy: There is very little down side to having people know you're the Deputy. The Outlaws want to kill the Sheriff; you are a mere annoyance. The Sheriff is on your team. The only one who is gunning for you personally is the Renegade, and the only way to fool the Renegade is to pretend to be an Outlaw, which would be insane (your own Sheriff would be trying to kill you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Renegade: This is the one person who wants to hide his/her identity. Renegades always pretend to be Deputies at first. However, the key to Renegade victory is killing the Deputy early; if you &quot;play Deputy&quot; and only shoot at Outlaws, you will then have to go head-to-head with the real Deputy, while the Sheriff drinks beer and reloads to finish you off. You have to kill the Deputy before the Outlaws die, at which point you can't very well pretend to be the Deputy any more! So your deception has a limited shelf life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hidden identity part of &quot;Bang!&quot; is not really a big part of the game. It adds some uncertainty in the opening turns, but once the Outlaws make their move, things come clear pretty quickly. Most of the strategy is about managing your hand, picking your targets, and choosing what to play when. (It's not a very deep game, nor is it intended to be; it's a party game, fast and simple and fun. If you want a game that challenges your strategic skills, Bang! ain't it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12593" LastEditorUserId="12593" LastEditDate="2015-05-28T22:01:31.890" LastActivityDate="2015-05-28T22:01:31.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23675" CreationDate="2015-05-29T04:20:16.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No because he will remain tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12789" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T04:52:31.243" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T04:52:31.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24406" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T07:49:23.707" Score="3" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've started playing Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons Dungeon Command and had a question regarding sliding/shifting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the sliding/shifting have to happen in a straight line? In one case, the other player slid two spaces forward then one space to the right. Is this okay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do not specify one way or the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Greg" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:18.943" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:18.943" Title="Does sliding/shifting have to happen in a straight line, or can it be curved?" Tags="|dungeon-command|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24302" CreationDate="2015-05-29T09:59:31.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some statistic available &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArNdOESpLXrNdE5obElscWdwU2JwQ1JPQXJVZ3ZfRlE&amp;amp;usp=drive_web#gid=15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on average difficulties&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArNdOESpLXrNdE5obElscWdwU2JwQ1JPQXJVZ3ZfRlE&amp;amp;usp=drive_web#gid=6&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on doom track levels vs number of players&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T09:59:31.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24310" CreationDate="2015-05-29T10:01:57.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have split all conditions into small sections (delimited by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/16722/5318&quot;&gt;foam in my box&lt;/a&gt;).  So, when I draw a madness, I pick from the madness deck. This makes the game move slightly faster as there are less draws to get what you need/must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; lead to some card counting. The trick there is to shuffle the desk each time it is used. You could also shuffle the desk for someone else and they give you a number, say X. You then pick the bottom/top X card to give them. Yet another alternative, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12617/joey&quot;&gt;Joey&lt;/a&gt; suggested is to have a masking card at the top of the deck, maybe showing what type of card you have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T06:46:44.700" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24406" CreationDate="2015-05-29T12:52:06.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless otherwise specified, movement does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; have to be in a straight line. Special movement modes follow the rules for normal movement, except where they specifically differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shift and slide don't specify any extra limitations on the direction of movement, so we follow the default movement rules. If we wanted to, we could slide a creature back and forth one square at a time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/downloads/dnd/DnD_SkirmishRulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;, pages 9-11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;MOVING&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A creature can move a number of squares up to its Speed, entering squares one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each new square a creature enters must be adjacent to the last, including diagonally adjacent. However, a creature cannot move diagonally around the corner of a dungeon wall (see “Terrain and Movement” below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature can always move fewer squares than specified by an action or effect (including special movement modes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SPECIAL MOVEMENT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some creatures have special forms of movement that affect how they interact with terrain and with other creatures. As well, effects from Order cards might grant special movement to creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SHIFT:&lt;/strong&gt; When a creature shifts, it ignores the requirement to stop when entering a square adjacent to an enemy creature. If it starts its movement adjacent to an enemy, it can move up to the number of squares stated by the effect (however, its Speed is still 1 for the purpose of effects that state “shift its Speed”). It is still affected by terrain while moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SLIDE:&lt;/strong&gt; Order cards can let you slide other creatures. Sliding a creature lets you move it regardless of who controls that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A sliding creature doesn’t have to stop when entering a square adjacent to or occupied by an enemy and can slide the full stated distance even if it starts adjacent to an enemy. It is still affected by terrain while moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, from the diagram on page 11, we see an example of a Copper Dragon using flying movement. The rules for flying don't explicitly specify that the flying creature can change direction after each square, because that's covered under the normal rules for movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T12:52:06.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24410" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T13:31:42.903" Score="6" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monty Python Fluxx, there are keepers that kill creepers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they be played and also kill in the same turn, or is it 1 turn to play them and 2nd turn to kill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can they be used over and over again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12791" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T14:57:51.330" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T19:04:31.440" Title="can keepers kill creepers in same turn over and over again?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24417" CreationDate="2015-05-29T13:40:29.377" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;While reading the rules for Chaos in the Old World, I came across the following paragraph on page 12 under the &lt;strong&gt;Summoning Follower Figures&lt;/strong&gt; under the &lt;strong&gt;Summoning Phase&lt;/strong&gt; section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the placing player may count a given region as occupied by his own figure if he chose the last figure in that region to summon. For example, a player who picks up his last figure in Norsca in order to summon it to a different location may summon that figure to Troll Country, even if he has no figures in Troll Country or in any regions adjacent to Troll Country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the surface, this is rule is in place simply to allow you to 'move' a unit across the board so you can summon in regions you actually want to (if, for instance, there is a particularly debilitating Old World card in play that refuses to fall off the track). However, the first sentence caught my attention and got me thinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the placing player &lt;strong&gt;may count a given region as occupied by his own figure if he chose the last figure in that region to summon.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this allow for more advanced play tactics? For instance, would the following play (in bold) be legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Khorne has one Bloodsworn in Norsca, but no units in Troll Country or Kislev&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Khorne summons a Bloodsworn from Norsca into the Empire.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nurgle summons a Plaguebearer into Kislev.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tzeentch plays a Chaos Card in Tilea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slaanesh plays a Chaos Card in The Border Princes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Khorne summons a Bloodletter into Troll Country.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning for believing this is legal is because Khorne was the last one to summon in Norsca - and no one else summoned into or out of Norsca during that cycle of summoning - Norsca is still counted as 'occupied by Khorne'; and therefore Khorne can summon a Bloodletter into Troll Country, as it is adjacent to a region he controls. Had another player summoned a unit into Norsca after Khorne removed his Bloodsworn, this play would not have been possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is a legal play, it leads to some follow-up questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the Summoning Phase had ended with Slaanesh, would Khorne be able to summon his Bloodletter in the Summoning Phase &lt;strong&gt;of the next round&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Tzeentch had played his Chaos Card in Norsca instead of Tilea, would Khorne still have been able to summon his Bloodletter?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the synonymous nature of &amp;quot;move&amp;quot;,&amp;quot;place&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;summon&amp;quot; only applies to figures and not Chaos Cards.(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To &amp;quot;summon&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;a figure&lt;/strong&gt;, &amp;quot;place&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;a figure&lt;/strong&gt; or even &amp;quot;move&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;a figure&lt;/strong&gt; are all equivalent terms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Chaos cards are &amp;quot;placed&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;played&amp;quot;, the above rule does not seem like it applies to them as it is found under the &lt;strong&gt;Summoning Follower Figures&lt;/strong&gt; section, not the &lt;strong&gt;Playing Chaos Cards&lt;/strong&gt; section or even the general description of the Summoning Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T00:48:33.243" Title="Can I summon figures into a non-adjacent region?" Tags="|chaos-in-the-old-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24412" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24415" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:04:35.003" Score="11" ViewCount="2697" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use a chopsticks card to play two cards, can a Wasabi I play simultaneously with a Nigiri be used together to triple the Nigiri points? My inclination from a strict reading of the rules is to think no, but from a sushi eating perspective, it seems reasonable to be able to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:30:14.627" Title="Can the Wasabi card and a Nigiri card be played together at once?" Tags="|sushi-go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24414" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:07:10.187" Score="4" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;After playing a card face down and flipping to reveal, should I be allowed to survey my hand a few moments before passing it to the next player? The rules don't strictly disallow it, but I've noticed it seems to be a general habit for players to face their hand downward before flipping, and when someone then peeks and ruffles through their hand after seeing what everyone has played (probably to see what combinations can then be obtained), there's often a knee-jerk reaction to consider that cheating in spirit.  It does slow down the game some as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:27:08.033" Title="Can I look at my hand after revealing my card and before I pass it to the next player?" Tags="|sushi-go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24413" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:27:08.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After&lt;/strong&gt; revealing cards, pass your remaining hand face-down to &#xA;  the player on your left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, when you reveal your card, you should (or at least you're allowed to) still have your hand in front of you. It's safe to assume that it's not illegal to pause for an extra moment to look at your hand before passing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:27:08.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24412" CreationDate="2015-05-29T14:30:14.627" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The designer of the game clarified this rule in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1014756/chopsticks-wasabi-and-nigiri&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek thread&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The intention of the rule is that you can choose the order you play the two cards when using chopsticks. So you can play a Wasabi and then a Nigiri on top of it right away! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T14:30:14.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24411" CreationDate="2015-05-29T15:35:31.233" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a clever loophole, but I think it is an unintentional one. You've pointed out most of the reasons it's probably not intended to work like that already:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rule is intended to model the movement of troops from one region to an adjacent region. It doesn't make any thematic sense to summon multiple troops to an adjacent empty region that you used to have a presence in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What about the round after? And potentially the round after that?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How does this interact with Chaos cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last two points are not defined in the rules at all, which is significant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most compellingly, this violates the general game design principle that it's a bad idea to make key decisions pivotal on invisible board states, stored only in player's fallible and biased memories. Once Khorne has moved their Bloodletter, everyone at the table &lt;em&gt;would have to remember&lt;/em&gt; that he used to be in Norsca. Potentially they would need to remember this over multiple rounds, if Norsca remained empty. Since this state is not reflected on the board, if there was any dispute about who was where, it can't be resolved by inspection. That's just bad design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T15:35:31.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24410" CreationDate="2015-05-29T15:49:48.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I don't have this edition of Fluxx, so I may not have found all of the relevant keepers.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; The keepers with creeper removal &lt;em&gt;from this edition&lt;/em&gt; specifically care about being on the table. It only takes one of your plays to actually play a card, &lt;strong&gt;not to use an effect they provide&lt;/strong&gt;. These &quot;free&quot; actions can be taken at any time (in between card plays) unless specified otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant keepers are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Excalibur&lt;/strong&gt;: If you have this on the table, you may move one of your Creepers to another player during your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch&lt;/strong&gt;: If you have this on the table and it's your turn, you can discard it along with any Creeper of your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Finger of God&lt;/strong&gt;: If you have this on the table you may smite (i.e. discard) any Creeper. After smiting, you must put this card back into your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Animator&lt;/strong&gt;: Counts as the Finger of God if the real Finger of God is not on the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Excalibur specifies &quot;&lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; of &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; Creepers &lt;strong&gt;during your turn&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, so you can do this once per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use this &quot;during &lt;strong&gt;your turn&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, but only once because it's discarded, unless you have a way to recover it from the discard and play it again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use this at any time between plays. If it's your turn and you have multiple plays, you can repeatedly play and use this card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If this counts as the Finger of God, it copies all the properties of that card, so it &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; be used to smite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T17:05:43.637" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T17:05:43.637" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24419" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29876" CreationDate="2015-05-29T16:38:44.767" Score="6" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules list various subjective ways players can force a storyteller to end her turn when she:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gets stuck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Contradicts the story&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rambles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is too silly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Introduces unimportant elements&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What have you found are the smoothest or best ways to handle these challenges? Do you simply put it to a majority vote, a unanimous vote? Are there problems that often occur like spirited agreement to the challenges by people simply wanting to get more of an edge toward winning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for insights on what people have found works better and what sort of stumbling blocks they encountered with this aspect of a game that clearly requires people to be on the same page and somewhat sporting of each other to truly make it work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or drunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T14:28:21.140" Title="What are the best ways to manage challenges to the storyteller?" Tags="|once-upon-a-time|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24421" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:16:27.093" Score="9" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm relatively new to magic and recently went to a local draft. In one of my matches, my opponent played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpseweft&quot;&gt;Corpseweft&lt;/a&gt; and activated its ability to exile 3 creatures from their graveyard and summoned a 2/2, 4/4, and 6/6 black Zombie Horror creature token. Which means he has 3 zombie horrors summoned all at one time. My first question is that shouldn't it actually just be a single 6/6 black Zombie Horror creature token? I kept reading over the card and didn't think it was played correctly, but they insisted me that's how it works. Again, I'm new so I didn't want to further doubt a player more experienced than me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have searched around the internet for discussions on this card but there was little information I found. From the little information I did stumble upon though, it seemed like a back and forth argument in which I wasn't sure which side was right. Could someone please clarify all this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12793" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T17:19:50.340" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T04:10:20.077" Title="I am really confused on how corpseweft works?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24420" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:19:01.730" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were correct. When your opponent activated Corpseweft's ability and exiled 3 creature cards from their graveyard, they should have put a single 6/6 black Zombie Horror creature token into play. There is nothing in the text of the ability about putting multiple tokens into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future, if you have a disagreement like this over how a card or rule works, you should always call a judge. Resolving disputes like this is their primary function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T17:19:01.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24420" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:25:26.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that there should only be one 6/6 Zombie Horror.  Exiling the cards is part of the cost to activate Corpseweft.  So it goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay the mana cost and exile the 3 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put a token into play that's power and toughness are equal to 2x the number of exiled cards (3 cards =&gt; 6/6).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For it to do what your opponent suggested it would have to be worded something like &quot;1B: Exile any number of creature cards from your graveyard.  For each card exiled this way, put an X/X Zombie Horror creature token into play where X is twice the number of creature cards exiled before the card this turn plus one.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that the ability only says to put a single token into play.  If you wanted multiple tokens, you would have to activate the ability multiple times, including paying the mana cost and exiling cards each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T17:25:26.317" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24200" CreationDate="2015-05-29T17:36:20.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll put forward an approach that if nothing else will set a beginning bar. I'll start with some justification as to how I think you could get the cards you need, and then we'll add up the points at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that the gods are smiling upon you (&lt;em&gt;or that your neighbors are idiots&lt;/em&gt;) first and foremost. They play the perfect cards, including ones that give you lots of money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also assume for sake of argument you are sitting next to &lt;strong&gt;Rome(B)&lt;/strong&gt; so you pay less for leaders (&lt;em&gt;and maybe &lt;strong&gt;China&lt;/strong&gt; so you get more money&lt;/em&gt;). Let's also assume you got &lt;strong&gt;Babylon(B)&lt;/strong&gt; so you get to keep your second card as well as a wild scientific. This will allow you eight cards each round.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;You probably don't need 8 in the first round as it would cost too much.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, assume you get one of the three of the leaders that give you a scientific card (&lt;strong&gt;Euclid&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Ptolemy&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Pythagorus&lt;/strong&gt;), &lt;strong&gt;Ramses&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;free guilds&lt;/em&gt;), and &lt;strong&gt;Archimedes&lt;/strong&gt; (the one that makes each scientific cost one less). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you start out with 3 coins (&lt;em&gt;having paid one less for &lt;strong&gt;Archimedes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Grab a &lt;strong&gt;Tavern&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then the &lt;strong&gt;Pigeon Loft&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;A spy mask&lt;/em&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bury once (&lt;em&gt;5 coins remaining&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If your neighbors played the right cards, you could pick up an additional three coins.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;China&lt;/strong&gt; First wonder section, and &lt;strong&gt;Gambling Den&lt;/strong&gt;, back up to 8).&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Play a military (&lt;em&gt;preferably the &lt;strong&gt;Guard Tower&lt;/strong&gt; so you don't have to pay&lt;/em&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pick up the three scientific cards (&lt;strong&gt;Apothecary, Workshop, and Scriptorium&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(7 cards, first age done).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Win both military battles, and proceed to round two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Ramses&lt;/strong&gt; or your scientific leader (&lt;em&gt;4 coins gone, down to 4&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ladder the three scientific cards (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dispensary, Laboratory, and Library&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Buy the &lt;strong&gt;School&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;down to 2 coins&lt;/em&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have a neighbor play the &lt;strong&gt;Gambling House&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;back to 4 coins&lt;/em&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get the &lt;strong&gt;Vineyard&lt;/strong&gt; and make boatloads of money&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(nice neighbors, you could make 10-14, so lets assume 18 coins now.)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Get the &lt;strong&gt;Architect Cabinent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(wanted to get the Spy Ring for the mask, but I think it's just too expensive, this should cost 3, and now your wonders are free) &lt;/sub&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bury once (&lt;em&gt;still at 9 coins&lt;/em&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now you get the 8th card, which you should probably bury for the free scientific.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2nd Age Finished.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Win both military battles again (thank you neighbors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play your last leader (&lt;em&gt;down to 5 coins&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Ladder all 5 scientific cards (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lodge, Observatory, University, Academy, and Study&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Pick up the &lt;strong&gt;Scientist's Guild&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;free scientific&lt;/em&gt;),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Play &lt;strong&gt;Courtesan's Guild&lt;/strong&gt; (use a neighbors scientific leader),&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At some point have your neighbors have purchased enough brick from you that you can afford the &lt;strong&gt;Torture Chamber&lt;/strong&gt; for the final mask.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Third Age over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Win the final two military battles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's figure out points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all scientific cards (4 full sets), 2 masks, 2 wild scientific, and 2 scientific leaders (&lt;em&gt;assume these fell just right so that you end up with 2 more sets&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So, &lt;strong&gt;18&lt;/strong&gt; from military victories, and 6 full sets.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This gives you &lt;strong&gt;150&lt;/strong&gt; from scientific with the 18 from military gives a total of &lt;strong&gt;168 points.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12020" LastEditorUserId="12020" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T18:31:13.750" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T18:31:13.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24425" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:06:50.667" Score="-2" ViewCount="8681" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many cards that can put multiple permanents onto the battlefield simultaneously, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScapeshift%5d&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLiving%20Death%5d&quot;&gt;Living Death&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyxis%20of%20Pandemonium%5d&quot;&gt;Pyxis of Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt;.  How do these interact with the following types of abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may have [this permanent] enter the battlefield as...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When [a permanent with certain characteristics] enters the battlefield...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Justification&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There have been many questions already about particular instances of this situation.  This question is intended to be a canonical question and answer to all questions such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24382/what-happens-when-multiple-canker-abominations-enter-the-battlefield-simultaneou&quot;&gt;What happens when multiple Canker Abominations enter the battlefield simultaneously?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11794/how-does-valakut-trigger-with-a-card-like-harrow-or-scapeshift-putting-multiple&quot;&gt;How does Valakut trigger with a card like Harrow or Scapeshift putting multiple mountains into play?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/16832/cards-entering-the-battlefield-simultaneously-and-enter-the-battlefield-effect&quot;&gt;Cards entering the battlefield simultaneously and &amp;quot;Enter the Battlefield&amp;quot; effects&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8399/do-creatures-that-enter-the-battlefield-at-the-same-time-see-each-other-enter&quot;&gt;Do creatures that enter the battlefield at the same time see each other enter?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/16795/pyxis-of-pandemonium-and-enters-the-battlefield-abilities&quot;&gt;Pyxis of Pandemonium and &amp;#39;enters the battlefield&amp;#39; abilities&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note to moderators: three of these five questions have already been marked as duplicates pointing to this one.  Can we do the same for the remaining two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T23:24:31.720" Title="Multiple permanents entering the battlefield simultaneously and “Enter the Battlefield” effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2016-11-18T23:24:37.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24424" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:06:50.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The replacement effects (&lt;code&gt;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;You may have [this permanent] enter the battlefield as...&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with&lt;/code&gt;) will look at the state of the battlefield before the group of permanents enters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered abilities (&lt;code&gt;When [a permanent with certain characteristics] enters the battlefield&lt;/code&gt;) will trigger for all eligible permanents entering the battlefield.  This is true even if the ability is on one of the permanents that is entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scapeshift&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt; to find several copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valakut%2C%20the%20Molten%20Pinnacle&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt;, some mountains, and several copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vesuva&quot;&gt;Vesuva&lt;/a&gt;, you will have a group of lands entering the battlefield simultaneously.  Vesuva's ability is a replacement effect, and so can only copy lands on the battlefield before the group of lands enters (so if you sacrificed all of your lands to Scapeshift, Vesuva would only be able to copy an opponent's land).  Meanwhile, Valakut has a triggered ability.  All of the Valakut abilities will trigger for all of the mountains entering the battlefield.  If the Valakuts happen to be mountains as well, such as due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prismatic%20Omen&quot;&gt;Prismatic Omen&lt;/a&gt;, they will trigger their own and each others abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Death&quot;&gt;Living Death&lt;/a&gt;, any instances of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; that come back to life will have no valid copy targets and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Canker%20Abomination&quot;&gt;Canker Abomination&lt;/a&gt; will be a 6/6, since both of these are replacement effects.  Meanwhile, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goldnight%20Commander&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt; has a triggered ability, and so will give all of your creatures +1/+1 until end of turn for each creature besides himself that entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rules Justification&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behavior of the triggered abilities comes from the following core rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6a&lt;/strong&gt; Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. These are written, &amp;quot;When [this object] enters&#xA;the battlefield, ...&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield,&#xA;...&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the&#xA;battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the&#xA;newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that&#xA;match the event&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3b&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and&#xA;resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities&#xA;that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process&#xA;repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no&#xA;abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behavior of the replacement effects comes from the following core rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2g&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only&#xA;once, when the effect is applied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.1c&lt;/strong&gt; Effects that read &amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with ... ,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield ... ,&amp;quot; or&#xA;&amp;quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield as ... &amp;quot; are replacement&#xA;effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.12.&lt;/strong&gt; Some replacement effects modify how a permanent enters the battlefield. (See rules 614.1c–d.) Such effects may come from the&#xA;permanent itself if they affect only that permanent (as opposed to a&#xA;general subset of permanents that includes it). They may also come&#xA;from other sources. To determine which replacement effects apply and&#xA;how they apply, check the characteristics of the permanent as it would&#xA;exist on the battlefield, taking into account replacement effects that&#xA;have already modified how it enters the battlefield (see rule 616.1),&#xA;continuous effects generated by the resolution of spells or abilities&#xA;that changed the permanent’s characteristics on the stack (see rule&#xA;400.7a), and continuous effects from the permanent’s own static abilities, but ignoring continuous effects from any other source that&#xA;would affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.12a&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;If a replacement effect that modifies how a permanent enters the battlefield requires a choice, that choice is made before the&#xA;permanent enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.4. Replacement effects must exist before the appropriate event occurs—they can’t “go back in time” and change something that’s&#xA;already happened.&lt;/strong&gt; Spells or abilities that generate these effects are&#xA;often cast or activated in response to whatever would produce the&#xA;event and thus resolve before that event would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes&#xA;any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the&#xA;player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required,&#xA;followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the&#xA;actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the&#xA;“Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T17:19:24.177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T17:19:24.177" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24465" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:11:37.653" Score="16" ViewCount="457" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a host (and as a guest) to a gaming session, I like to help make the experience as gratifying for as many people as possible. I sometimes run into certain types of people or behaviors that are sometimes, but never always, anticipated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sore Loser Crankiness:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;gets increasingly irritable as the certainty of his failure to win approaches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Self-Pitying:&lt;/strong&gt; repeatedly moping sadly and verbally over how desperate, pathetic and impossible his situation is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vendetta-bound:&lt;/strong&gt; out for blood beyond any intra- or inter-meta-game statistics or standing reason. Spouses, Significant others, Politically mis-aligned players, someone who took the last pizza roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more, and I listed these as behaviors, not so much as 'types of people', although we probably all know various people who tend to repeatedly show these behaviors. Some might be &quot;tolerate&quot; and others might be &quot;kick to the curb&quot;, but do people have good approaches that help address these issues and in the end make their gaming sessions and gaming groups stronger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to add that I'm more interested in courses of action during the ongoing game session or social event (excluding something like pulling the person aside for a word).  I feel there are various common carefully thought out ways to confront or appeal to people after the fact and that these approaches (in person, calling, email, tone of appeal/confrontation) could easily be another question/topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've edited the original question to specify adults as interacting with children adds in a whole extra complexity of boundaries especially when they aren't your children and you're then thinking about how to interact around or with the parents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T17:24:46.410" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T17:24:46.410" Title="What do you do when one or more adults is upset or acting inappropriately?" Tags="|etiquette|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24427" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:40:49.350" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chicago Express appears to be a game with no luck in that there are no dice, no cards drawn. There are minimal random elements such as player seating. My interpretation of the game has been that in order to maximize your cash (to win the game), you generally aim to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buy shares as cheaply and at as sound an investment price as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;induce others to build/expand/upgrade rail roads that you own shares in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;build/expand/upgrade rail roads that help others as little as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because shares are auctioned and dividends paid proportionately to the point value (akin to the market cap) of the railroad and the shares sold, the game seems very tightly bound to how efficiently you spend your efforts on yourself and how much you get others to dilute their efforts into your shares.  So, If I have a monopoly on a certain railroad, it sounds like I should always build/expand that one (when building and expanding), and when I see a player with only one railroad or an overwhelming interest in expanding that one railroad, I should seek to gain shares in that railroad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your choices and ability to bid (and thus your ability to position your relative railroad ownership versus the other players) diminish immensely once you have no cash, it seems you have to be extremely careful about early bids and should be very willing to pass on expensive auction in order to maintain cash flow and avoid getting, well, railroaded (had to say it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other aspects of the game don't seem as crucial to me. Are there elements of how one expands their railroad across the board or builds extra value into their railroads' income track scores that become more prevalent, or is it more that you simply are building/expanding a certain railroad that matters rather than how you're doing it? Do other considerations such as how many potential turns remain for auction, development, or route construction matter much?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T17:33:05.427" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T17:33:05.427" Title="In Chicago Express, how important are strategies of tight share bidding and inducing others to develop railroads toward your shares?" Tags="|chicago-express|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24430" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:44:36.493" Score="7" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this ruling on Dominion Strategy Wiki FAQ for Band of Misfits:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You first play Band of Misfits, then you play the card you chose to&#xA;  emulate. In this sense, Band of Misfits plays like a Throne Room&#xA;  variant, and one play of Band of Misfits with a successful emulation&#xA;  counts as two Actions played; this matters for Conspirator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my understanding of Band of Misfits is that it basically reads &quot;Choose a card in the supply costing less than Band of Misfits.  Band of Misfits is that card until it leaves play.  Play band of Misfits.&quot;  Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on the same page, I found this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you use Throne Room, King's Court, or Procession to play a Band of&#xA;  Misfits card multiple times, you only pick what to play it as the&#xA;  first time; the other times it is still copying the same card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two rulings don't seem to make sense if Band of Misfits is copying Feast.  I would think it works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Throne Room.  Choose Band of Misfits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Band of Misfits.  Choose Feast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Band of Misfits as Feast.  Trash Feast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Throne Room loses track of Band of Misfits and can't put it into play, but it's still played from the trash.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Band of Misfits has reverted to itself, so the card you're playing shouldn't be Feast anymore.  From here I see two possibilities, and neither one seems completly right:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since Band of Misfits isn't in play, it can't copy anything(?), so nothing happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can play Band of Misfits as a new card, but it immediately reverts to being itself on resolution(?).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why does Throne Room keep track of what Band of Misfits copied?  It seems like there's no reason for that.  And if this is the case, what exactly is being played the second time?  Is it actually a card?  Does Band of Misfits mean it's actually copying &lt;em&gt;that exact card in the supply&lt;/em&gt; that you chose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastEditorUserId="7347" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T19:24:02.280" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T14:41:06.360" Title="Band of Misfits and Throne Room" Tags="|dominion|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T18:59:35.103" Score="2" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;The harbor master is obviously a critical role toward selecting and initializing the punts (boats), and the pirate and large and small pilots are the only remaining fine-tuning mechanisms to the landing outcomes of the boats. The wharf and shipyard bets seem short term incidental, more gambling bets, to me and less longer term ones such as investments in the black market value of the wares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general thoughts are to put a premium on obtaining harbor master early as long as the cost is not too prohibitive and to obtain as many shares across the board of wares at 5 pesos, then shift to giving up harbor master and driving up the price of bids (as long as I can be sure I won't accidentally win it), then focusing on being the pilots and pirates as a means to drive the boats to the wharf or shipyard of my preference to stall the game as long as possible and increase the black market value of my shares.  The ideal would be to encumber as many of my shares as possible and use that equity to manipulate the outcome either by being a reasonably priced harbormaster or placing accomplices on the pilot or pirate spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This feels like a solid long term goal with occasional bets on the punts, shipyard and wharf (although these seem much more short term and apparent to everyone in terms of their likelihood, risk, etc, so they are either more long shot or quickly taken when more of a sure thing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to whether this approach becomes viable lies behind whether the cost to be harbormaster justifies the potential gain in the wares. A 5 peso ware maybe reaching 20 pesos becomes a break-even proposal if you pay 15 pesos just to obtain harbormaster and costs of 5 and 2/5 for pirate and pilots make it seem more likely that players who grab up spots on the punts will come out positive more than this strategy might.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T16:35:06.257" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T16:35:06.257" Title="In Manila, what are the strengths of focusing on investing in cheap black market wares and controlling the landing outcomes of the punts?" Tags="|manila|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24428" CreationDate="2015-05-29T19:29:05.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found it.  They even use my exact example (I guess they're the canonical &quot;play twice&quot; and &quot;one-shot&quot; cards).  From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Complete_and_All-Encompassing_Dominion_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Complete and All-Encompassing Dominion FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regarding Band of Misfits no longer being in play, see 10.5 Atomicity&#xA;  of abilities. If you use Throne Room to play Band of Misfits twice, it&#xA;  will be the chosen card the second time you play it, so you will play&#xA;  it as the same card twice. However, if the card is removed from play&#xA;  (like a Feast), it will be just a Band of Misfits again the second&#xA;  time. You can then choose another Action card from Supply to play it&#xA;  as. The card will stay where it is, and the chosen card's abilities&#xA;  will trigger even as the Band of Misfits will immidiately revert back&#xA;  to being just Band of Misfits (since it's not in play), but you will&#xA;  resolve the triggered abilites of the card (link, link). This reverses&#xA;  a previous ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So speculation #2 was actually correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T19:29:05.747" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18761" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:45:22.127" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it's almost possible with just core set for 2 runner 2 corp decks, not recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first couple of data-packs, especially the Genesis cycle give you enough to start doing some things. What Lies Ahead alone has more Agendas to build a second corp deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6056" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T20:45:22.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24267" CreationDate="2015-05-29T20:51:24.367" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In TS, this is fairly normal and the game can end quickly at any time. Better equally matched players would have a higher chance of getting to the end. Going to the end is not necessary, and ending the game early is part of the tension.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6056" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T20:51:24.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24433" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-29T22:42:51.070" Score="3" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is my opening bid with a 24 high card point hand, so that I don't get 3 passes and end up short of slam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AKQJx AKx Ax KQJ, I think. One year players. So rare to see this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner had 11 HCP. I opened w 2NT, Part bid 3 something,I bid 3NT and then 3 passes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She had 3rd A and we had 4 K. Made Gr slam. Bid 3 NT. What a waste of a great opportunity. Should part. know with her 11 and my 2NT open that we should not stop, go to Gerber? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12795" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T03:36:32.180" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:55:39.913" Title="Grand slam bidding with high card points hand" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24234" CreationDate="2015-05-29T23:04:57.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to get an infinite combo with Enduring Scalelord is to use another Enduring Scalelord (probably with a copy in EDH). Once you have that, any effect that puts a +1/+1 counter on any creature you control will set off the combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm looking for cards, I like to use &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;magiccards.info&lt;/a&gt;, which has some very nice advanced search features. Commander uses color identity to restrict card legality, so all of our searches need to start with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ci:wug&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This finds only cards that have white, blue, and/or green in their color identity (including colorless cards). Once we have that, we can use similar search terms to the ones Rainbolt used:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;o:copy o:creature -o:spell -o:populate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will find cards with &amp;quot;copy&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;creature&amp;quot; in their text, but without &amp;quot;spell&amp;quot; (because most if not all spell copying effects don't let you copy creature spells). I also ignored cards with &amp;quot;populate&amp;quot; in their text, because that only copies tokens, so it will only be marginally useful in this situation. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=ci%3Awug%20o%3Acopy%20o%3Acreature%20-o%3Aspell%20-o%3Apopulate&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resulting search&lt;/a&gt; returns 41 different cards, most of which will be useful here, including&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;, and similar creatures that enter as copies of other creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cytoshape&quot;&gt;Cytoshape&lt;/a&gt;, which turn creatures into copies of other creatures (temporarily).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fated%20Infatuation&quot;&gt;Fated Infatuation&lt;/a&gt;, which create token copies of creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does also find a few irrelevant cards though, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Back%20from%20the%20Brink&quot;&gt;Back from the Brink&lt;/a&gt;, which can't copy creatures on the battlefield, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20of%20the%20Wild&quot;&gt;Essence of the Wild&lt;/a&gt;, which can only copy itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, all we need is a way to put a +1/+1 counter on any creature you control. The simplest search here is to just look for every card with &amp;quot;+1/+1 counter&amp;quot; in its text. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=ci%3Awug%20o%3A%22%2B1%2F%2B1%20counter%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;resulting search&lt;/a&gt; finds 489 cards, and it turns out that just about every one of them can trigger Enduring Scalelord. Some highlights that would be very useful even without the copy are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ajani%20Steadfast&quot;&gt;Ajani Steadfast&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cathar's Crusade&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cradle%20of%20Vitality&quot;&gt;Cradle of Vitality&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Decree%20of%20Savagery&quot;&gt;Decree of Savagery&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gavony%20Township&quot;&gt;Gavony Township&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mikaeus%2C%20the%20Lunarch&quot;&gt;Mikaeus, the Lunarch&lt;/a&gt;, all of which can put counters on all of your creatures (giving you as many Enduring Scalelord triggers as you have creatures)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aquastrand%20Spider&quot;&gt;Aquastrand Spider&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bramblewood%20Paragon&quot;&gt;Bramblewood Paragon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cenn's Tactician&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crowned%20Ceratok&quot;&gt;Crowned Ceratok&lt;/a&gt;: creatures that grant abilities to creatures with +1/+1 counters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avenger%20of%20Zendikar&quot;&gt;Avenger of Zendikar&lt;/a&gt;, which can put a counters on large number of tokens every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Custodi%20Soulbinders&quot;&gt;Custodi Soulbinders&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Etched%20Oracle&quot;&gt;Etched Oracle&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lunar%20Avenger&quot;&gt;Lunar Avenger&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sage%20of%20Hours&quot;&gt;Sage of Hours&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Simic%20Manipulator&quot;&gt;Simic Manipulator&lt;/a&gt;: Creatures that can do something useful with the counters once they get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more cards in each of those lists, and many of the other cards can be more or less useful depending on what else you have in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-05-29T23:30:34.873" LastActivityDate="2015-05-29T23:30:34.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24436" CreationDate="2015-05-30T08:15:54.067" Score="5" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is Magic: The Gathering a consistent game? That is, is there any possible situation where the rules contradict on what to do next, and also, can a game hypothetically go on indefinitely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12698" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:46:36.457" Title="Is Magic: The Gathering a consistent game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24435" CreationDate="2015-05-30T10:20:43.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The game can never end up in an undefined state.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are rules for every situation, and they don't contradict each other. It is possible for the game to go into an infinite loop because of card/rule interactions, but the players have to either break the loop by doing something else, or the game ends in a draw, depending on the exact circumstances. In competitive settings such as a tournament (from world championships down to local prerelease events), there are also official judges present who can resolve any rules dispute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T10:20:43.893" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24387" CreationDate="2015-05-30T12:24:30.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a great article by Daniel Solis: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://danielsolisblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/5-graphic-design-and-typography-tips.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://danielsolisblog.blogspot.com/2011/11/5-graphic-design-and-typography-tips.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11642" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T12:24:30.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24435" CreationDate="2015-05-30T16:42:46.157" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any rules that directly contradict one another. That said, there are known holes found and fixed with almost every rules update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Do the rules cover everything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules cover most situations, and they also cover what to do when a conflict occurs. Here is an example of one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card’s text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the rules have holes. Here's a quote from Matt Tabak (rules manager for Magic: the Gathering) in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/dragons-tarkir-update-bulletin-comprehensive-rule-changes-2015-03-19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules update for Dragons of Tarkir&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;713.1c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wasn't clear what happened if an effect ended the turn during a cleanup step, so a clarification was made. In this unlikely occurrence, a new cleanup step begins. Essentially, you can't escape a turn without going through a &amp;quot;clean&amp;quot; cleanup step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the comprehensive rules have flaws, and these flaws are found and fixed with every rules update. These days, the majority of rules flaws will almost never be relevant in a real game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now forget about &amp;quot;honest, casual players. Regrettably, Magic has cheaters. If you, the reader, are a casual player who never plays in tournaments, you can skip this section on tournament rules and move on to the second question. The tournament rules do not apply to casual games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are tournament rules that require a judge to make a decision. If you get a different judge, you might get a different decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if a judge believes that you are unintentionally breaking the rules, you might get a warning for failing to maintain the game state. However, if the judge believe you broke the rules intentionally, you will be disqualified. A different judge may reach a different conclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheating will often appear on the surface as a Game Play Error or Tournament Error, and must be investigated by the judge to make a determination of intent and awareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Can a game hypothetically go on indefinitely&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally, I answered with a simple &amp;quot;No.&amp;quot; Turns out, it depends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual play, it is possible for you and a friend to indefinitely shuffle your graveyards back into your library repeatedly. You could do this, for example, with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elixir%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;. Nothing in the comprehensive rules prevents this from continuing forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournament play, there are rules in place to prevent this. If you shuffle your graveyard into your library, gain 5 life, and then repeat, then you have entered into what is known as an &amp;quot;indefinite infinite loop&amp;quot; (the indefinite part comes from the fact that even though you are in a loop, you don't really know what's going to happen next at any point in the loop). The most prominent ruling made on a case like this is about a deck known as the Four Horsemen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://starcitygames.com/events/coverage/deck_tech_four_horsemen_with_j.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read about Four Horsemen from a tournament official's perspective&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/standard/25043-Indefinite-Infinite-Loops-At-SCG-Legacy-Open-LA.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Read about Four Horsemen from a player's perspective&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing to execute any loop without specifying a number of times that you will repeat the loop is considered slow play (if you don't know it's against the rules) or stalling (if you do know it's against the rules). You will eventually be removed from the tournament for this behavior.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T22:54:40.460" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T22:54:40.460" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24439" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T17:00:13.773" Score="3" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;At our bridge game last night LHO opens 1C, overcaller bids 1H, RHO passes, the Partner of overcaller bids DOUBLE, thinking of making a negative double, how should the director rule this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diagramatically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;LHO   OHO   RHO  IHO &#xA; 1C    1H  Pass  Dbl&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How should Director rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OHO = Opposite-Hand Opponent; IHO = In-Hand Opponent. This phrasing seems particularly apt for this particular question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12799" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T05:03:42.687" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T16:06:19.507" Title="Double that is not acceptable" Tags="|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24440" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T17:08:48.220" Score="-7" ViewCount="1076" Body="&lt;p&gt;Also, if I only have one creature, can my opponent attack me with multiple creatures at the same time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12800" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:17:52.460" Title="If I have no creatures, can my opponent attack me with multiple creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-01T13:05:14.753" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24440" CreationDate="2015-05-30T17:11:32.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only three restrictions in the rules limiting the choice of which creatures can be declared as attackers&lt;sup&gt;[CR 508.1a]&lt;/sup&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They must be creatures your control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They must be untapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They must have Haste if they havn't been under your control since the beginning of your turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of creatures controlled by the defender is not a factor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that certain cards have abilities that impose additional restrictions. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20of%20Cruelties&quot;&gt;Master of Cruelties&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-05-30T17:40:15.673" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T17:40:15.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14460" CreationDate="2015-05-30T20:45:45.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend the following starting rule to make the start up more fair with more players:&#xA;Each player (in turn order, before the first player moves) chooses one of the corners of the board as their starting location.  The first time you pass go, the amount to collect is prorated based on how far you traveled, e.g. collect $50 if you started at Goto Jail, $100 if you started at Free Parking, ...&#xA;This allows later players to start from locations with fewer opponents.  This is a quicker way to address the first roller advantage than the no buying on the first lap rule mentioned by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/10349/joe-mc&quot;&gt;@Joe Mc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Addressing the main question, more players generally makes the game longer.  Monopoly is already considered by many too long, even with the correct rules.  If players are reluctant to trade (and the above rule is used to even out property ownership), it is quite likely that no player gets a Monopoly.  In this case, the game could go on forever.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With more than four players, I would really recommend playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopoly:_The_Mega_Edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mega Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; instead of the standard game.  Mega Monopoly is also listed as a game for 2 - 8 players, but has several rules that make it a better game for more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="299" LastEditDate="2018-01-08T17:02:11.750" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T17:02:11.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24373" CreationDate="2015-05-30T22:04:18.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think freekvd explained rather well why your probability distribution is not flat, but if you want a flat distribution, you could do one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get a 24-sided and a 12-sided die and do basically the same thing you had already done.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;make cards numbered 1-24 and draw two of them for each token placement. Those on the 12-inch side can either be divided by two or taken mod 12 (meaning that you subtract 12 from anything above 12, just like with time). You could also have a separate 1-12 deck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you only have 6 sided dice and only want to use dice, then you could roll two six sided dice for each side. The two dice are not interchangeable, so they'll have to either be different colors or be rolled one at a time. For this example, let's say you have a black and a white die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll both dice and subtract 1 from each roll. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiply the roll of the white die by 1/6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add the two values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will give you a total between 0 and 5 + 5/6.&#xA;(You could then add 1/12 to that number if you're worried that two edges will have tokens and the other two won't.)&#xA;For the 24-inch side, multiply that total by 4 inches and for the 12-inch side, multiply it by 2 inches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Mark the edges of your board with number pairs from 1-1 to 6-6 which are evenly spaced. Forget about inches and just place the token on the corresponding part of the board.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put walls around your board and then toss the tokens in from a few feet away. There's no guarantee that it'll be an even distribution, but it'd probably be more fun than rolling dozens of dice and making measurements just to set up your game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12802" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T22:04:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-05-30T22:09:36.260" Score="7" ViewCount="26105" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules state that properties can be mortgaged at any time.  But if I can't raise enough money to pay rent, I am bankrupt and out of the game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Mortgaging properties just prior to handing them over to the new owner would be a nuisance.  Since the new owner is required to pay a 10% fee to the bank.&#xA;As the player being bankrupted, am I allowed to reduce the spoils I turn over in this fashion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note a similar question about &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6472/in-monopoly-is-it-ok-for-a-third-party-to-make-a-trade-with-a-player-who-is-abo&quot;&gt;making deals with other players&lt;/a&gt; when going bankrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T14:46:53.763" Title="In Monopoly, Can I mortgage properties as I am bankrupted?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24435" CreationDate="2015-05-30T23:02:47.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;is there any possible situation where the rules contradict on what to do next&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. That said, sometimes that rules are unclear or they don't cover a certain circumstances, and sometimes judges will issue incorrect and contradictory rulings. But in large, the rules are quite well written, especially given the complexity of the possible interactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can a game hypothetically go on indefinitely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. It's possible to get into a situation where neither of the players can harm the other. These games typically end when one of the players runs out of cards to draw. But if both players had means to shuffle their graveyard into their library, such a game could have no end short of having a player conceded or having both players declare a draw. In a tournament setting, such games would end in a draw after the time available to play the game expires.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-05-30T23:02:47.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24663" CreationDate="2015-05-30T23:24:31.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description for the Silver Key artifact is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per round, you may spend 1 less clue to pay for an effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This boardgamegeek thread discusses it, but I am still not clear what effects this covers or doesn't cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1080669/silver-key-what-effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1080669/silver-key-what-effect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general thinking is most anything is valid as long as it isn't a specific clue that is needed to pay for an effect, i.e. a mystery that requires you to finish a research encounter and pay THAT clue toward solving it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:49:29.513" Title="With the Silver Key artifact, what effects can I spend 1 less clue?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2015-05-31T01:16:54.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, you can mortgage properties to try to avoid bankruptcy. But when it is obvious that you can't, you are supposed to restore the &lt;em&gt;status quo ante,&lt;/em&gt; (before you landed on the other person's property), and hand over your property to your creditor as they &quot;were.&quot; That is, mortgaged or unmortgaged, as they were at the beginning of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your debt is to another player, you must turn over to that player all that you have of value and retire from the game. In making this settlement, if you own houses or hotels, you must return these to the Bank in exchange for money to the extent of one-half the amount paid for them; this cash is given to the creditor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="10016" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T14:46:53.763" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T14:46:53.763" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24433" CreationDate="2015-05-31T01:24:00.983" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hand is &quot;too strong&quot; for a &quot;direct&quot; of 2NT, which shows a balanced hand and 20-21 high card points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hand that you gave has 27 points, but three aces is one too many if your partner has the &quot;third.&quot; I'm assuming that you have two aces, 2 KQJs, and a side king for 23.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 22-23, the standard &quot;forcing&quot; bid is two clubs. Your partner MUST bid two diamonds (as a waiting bid) or better, (unless the opponent between you bids).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say partner makes a bid of two diamonds (waiting) or two hearts (responsive). When you rebid 2 NT, partner now knows that you have a &quot;strong&quot; 2NT with 22-23 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner is now the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/23135/how-does-one-evaluate-a-hand-responding-to-a-strong-two-clubs&quot;&gt;&quot;captain&quot;&lt;/a&gt; of the team because she knows about your 22-23 NT hand, as well as the composition of her 11 point hand. She should do the math and come up with 33-34, and bid 6NT. The reason she might not have done this after your immediate 2NT is because she may have given you &quot;credit&quot; for 20-21, and come up with 31-32 for the combined hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another poster hypothesized a bunch of possible hands for your &quot;24&quot; and came up with several hypothetical responses. That should not happen on this site. You should state the hand that you have, and ask about it, not about a generic &quot;24&quot; (23, actually) point hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T13:57:03.287" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24439" CreationDate="2015-05-31T05:16:47.137" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge, 2008&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 35&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Inadmissible calls&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. A double or redouble not permitted by Law 19. Law 36 applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 36&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;A. Offender's LHO Calls before Rectification&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  If offender's LHO calls before rectification of an inadmissible double or redouble the inadmissible call and all subsequent calls are cancelled. The auction reverts to the player whose turn it is to call [IHO  in this case] and proceeds as though there had been no irregularity. The lead restrictions of Rule 26 do not apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;B. Offender's LHO Does Not call before Rectification&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When A above does not apply:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    1. any double or redouble not permitted by Rule 19 is canceled.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    2. the offender must substitute a legal call, the auction continues and the offender's partner must pass whenever it is his turn to call.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    3. Law 23 [] may apply. The lead restrictions in Law 26 may apply.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;    4. If the call is out of turn .... [not applicable in this instance]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your description it seems that case B applies: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must substitute a legal call;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;your partner is required to Pass for the remainder of the auction;  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Director may award an adjusted score at his discretion according to the guidelines of Law 23; and  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if the opponents win the auction there will be lead penalties at your partner's first opportunity to lead, including if he is on Opening Lead. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lead penalty in this case will be under &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 26&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;B. Other Withdrawn Calls&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For other withdrawn calls, declarer may prohibit offender's partner from leading any one suit at his first turn to lead, including the opening lead; such prohibition to continue for as long as offender's partner retains the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morale: Pay more attention to all those multi-coloured cards on the table in front of you before pulling one out of the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I was a practicing director, many years ago, it was ACBL Policy that a Director was required to carry a rule book on his person whenever called to the table, and that any player present at the table where a ruling was being made could ask for the applicable Law to be read aloud. I cannot find this in the Rules themselves, and no longer have a current copy of the &lt;em&gt;ACBL Guide for Directors&lt;/em&gt;, but I would expect that any &lt;em&gt;polite&lt;/em&gt; request to that effect would be accepted by a Director. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you believe a Director may be erring in his ruling at the table this is a possible defence; however I would caution against using this wholesale. Directors do not have infinite patience, and are there to make rulings not to teach the Laws. Spend a few bucks; buy yourself a copy of the rules; perhaps even take the Director's Exam to ensure you have a good grasp of the rules. It will help you become a better player and partner in the long run. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T16:06:19.507" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T16:06:19.507" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2015-05-31T06:27:38.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Straight from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly-game.net/Classic_Monopoly_Rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Classic Monopoly Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are declared bankrupt if you owe more than you can pay either to another player or to the Bank. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my interpretation of this, consistent with commentary on Board Game Geek, is that any and all attempted transactions are contingent on &lt;em&gt;the right to perform transactions&lt;/em&gt;: namely, avoiding bankruptcy by raising sufficient funds to pay the debt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that your assets are now controlled by a trustee, as in real life, and released back to you if and only if you can release the bankruptcy; otherwise the trustee will not approve the transactions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T06:27:38.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24433" CreationDate="2015-05-31T15:54:21.773" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As explanation of why it is completely insufficient to ask &quot;What is my opening bid with a 24 high card point hand ...?&quot; consider these examples of hands with 24 HCP:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;QJT9876 AK AK AK     Open 5S, asking partner to pass or raise to 6 or 7 &#xA;                     with respectively 0, 1, or 2 controls in the Spade&#xA;                     suit. This is a useful asking bid because it is&#xA;                     pointless as an opening pre-empt - the only player&#xA;                     at the table you are pre-empting by opening 5 of a&#xA;                     major is partner.&#xA;&#xA;AKQTx x AKQTx AQ     Open 1S in order to preserve room to show your strong&#xA;                     two suiter with a second round jump to 3D. Opening 2C&#xA;                     with strong two-suiters is a bad practice, because you&#xA;                     will either lose the second suit, or be forced to&#xA;                     introduce it at the 4 level where partner will mis-&#xA;                     read it as a control bid in support of his suit.&#xA;&#xA;AKxx Kx AQJx AQJ     Open 2C planning to rebid 2NT.&#xA;&#xA;K32 AK AK32 AK32     I lean towards opening 2C planning to rebid 2NT, but I&#xA;                     could forgive a partner who simply opened this 2NT.&#xA;                     Game is very unlikely if partner cannot move over 2NT,&#xA;                     because of the major suit shortness and the poor&#xA;                     texture in all suits. &#xA;&#xA;AKQJTxx AKQ KQ 2     Open 4NT, Blackwood. The only information you require&#xA;                     from partner is how many Aces he has, and you may lose&#xA;                     the opportunity to ask if you let opponents into the&#xA;                     auction.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the following deal, consistent with OP's description. As the hand given by OP is actually 27 HCP, and an obvious 2S opener in consequence, let's amend to be an interesting question, dropping the SK to become:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S_AQJxx&#xA;H-AKx&#xA;D_Ax&#xA;C-KQJ&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;opposite something like  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S-Kxx&#xA;H-JTxx&#xA;D-Kxx&#xA;C-Axx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theoretical issues now aside, and with an actual hand to analyze, let's assume a casual partnership playing a Goren style bidding system - so no relevant conventions beyond Stayman; Strong 2C with a 2D waiting response and a second negative; straight Blackwood; and Gerber as an immediate jump over NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opener has 24 HCP plus a strong 5-card Spade suit, counting 5.5 QT and 9 PT (playing tricks); this is well above the minimum for a strong 2C opener and, significantly, too strong for a 22-24 HCP Strong 2NY opener. Opener should open 2C (or 2S if that is a strong opener rather than a weak 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over 2C responder will bid 2D (waiting) because she is &lt;strong&gt;too strong to bid a 2NT response&lt;/strong&gt;.  Opener rebids 2S to show the strong 5 card suit; and responder rebids 3S (game forcing because a fit has been announced and a 3C second negative wasn't bid). Even if Responder errs and jumps to 4S, which should be a minimum distributional raise in Spades, the partnership should easily find the small slam in either Spades or Notrump. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the grand, although possibly making on this hand, is a bad bet to bid because it requires responder to have either 4 clubs or for a beneficial break in hearts, or for a squeeze to come home.  This reflects the flaw in Opener's hand of no small diamond, wasting the DJ unless Responder has precisely Axxx or longer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To directly answer the question in regards the actual bidding sequence at the table: once Opener underbids with an opening of 2NT and hides the strong Spade suit on the second round, Responder can be forgiven for passing 3NT. There is really nowhere for Responder to go with confidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T15:55:39.913" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T15:55:39.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24461" CreationDate="2015-05-31T20:44:47.087" Score="2" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that special effects are resolved starting with the current player and in turn clockwise. Can I resolve all of my multiple special effects when it is my turn, or do I only resolve 1, then give the next player a chance to, etc. Also, if I know a player after me has 2 effects, can I wait until he does both and then resolve mine (essentially passing then choosing to resolve)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: here are snippets of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a base has been chosen to score, each player first gets to use any Special abilities that happen “before” the base scores. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've come to notice the distinction between &quot;special abilities&quot; such as certain actions and minions that can come &lt;strong&gt;into&lt;/strong&gt; play as a base passes its breaking point (but isn't considered having been &quot;scored&quot;). The rules below apply to these cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If more than one player wants to use a Special ability, start with the current player and go around the table clockwise until all players pass in sequence (if you pass and another player uses a Special, you can then still choose to use a Special of your own). If your Special allows you to play extra cards, you must play those immediately or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are then effects having to do with cards already in play that occur &quot;after&quot; the base scores, as described shortly after:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After scoring, players can use Special abilities that happen “after” a base scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After noting this, I'd like to clarify my question to specifically refer to these separate sets of phases, &quot;before&quot; and &quot;after&quot;, and ask what people feel is the ruling on whether, starting with the player whose turn it is, they can play more than one card (or in the case of &quot;after the base scores&quot;, resolve more than one card's &quot;after the base scores&quot; effect), or whether they must pick one at a time and wait until everyone else has had a chance to do so or pass before taking the second opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lean toward one at a time if for no other reason than it seems like an interesting tactical consideration in itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T05:30:03.117" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T14:50:09.330" Title="Can I resolve all special effects or just 1 at a time in turn with other players before and after bases score" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24454" CreationDate="2015-05-31T22:07:58.570" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(Note: I have no experience with Smash Up, so I'm only relying on my general experience with orders in rules)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do the rules &lt;em&gt;explicitly&lt;/em&gt; say? If the rules do not mention about in which order the effects should be resolved, then I would say &quot;special effect&lt;strong&gt;s&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; most likely means that all the special effects in the &lt;em&gt;chain&lt;/em&gt; — whether it is a chain of only a single special effect, or a chain of more than one special effect — of &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; player are resolved before moving onto the next player. So for example (note that the rules most likely specify if the effects of a single player are resolved in a specific order or not):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first player has &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt;, the second &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt;, and the third &lt;strong&gt;four&lt;/strong&gt; special effects to resolve. For the sake of clarity, let's say the current player is the first player. Starting with the first player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first player solves his first effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first player solves his second effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the first player's special effects are now resolved, play moves onto the second player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second player solves his first effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the second player's special effects are now resolved, play moves onto the third player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third player solves his first effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third player solves his second effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third player solves his third effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third player solves his fourth effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the third player's special effects are now resolved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the players' special effects are now resolved, play continues normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rules state that the effects are resolved from the current player onwards, proceeding clockwise, then that means just that: special effects are resolved in a clockwise order, so the effects of a player going &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you are and can only be resolved &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; you have resolved your effects. &lt;em&gt;If the rules state this strictly, then you cannot change the order as you wish&lt;/em&gt; (it's a part of the game anyhow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12337" LastEditorUserId="12337" LastEditDate="2015-05-31T22:17:15.587" LastActivityDate="2015-05-31T22:17:15.587" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24440" CreationDate="2015-06-01T01:17:52.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are cards which restrict the number of creatures that can attack in a turn, but unless one of them is active, there are no limitations on how many creatures can be declared as attackers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:17:52.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24395" CreationDate="2015-06-01T01:31:42.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All copies of a card, regardless of set or source, have identical rules regarding how they function in game. There are special situations where a card cannot be used as a normal card without some special conditions(the only ones that comes to mind are oversized cards like some commanders, and the slightly differently shaped cards of Alpha set.), but this is due to the cards being visually different from the back and therefore identifiable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides this, there is no difference in game between using different sets versions of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T01:31:42.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24267" CreationDate="2015-06-01T02:42:38.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 in 5 getting to the Late War isn't much of a sample size, but it does appear to be on the low side. Do you have more details on why it ended early? DEFCON, Europe Control or 20 VPs? Is it USSR or USA that's winning early? Is one of you always winning early?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wnKqrvfwyTSkBQRPI28rRYBWTyda7UnwlujTI25tG6E/edit#gid=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;I found this&lt;/a&gt; spreadsheet from &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.twilightstrategy.com/index.php?topic=273.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; depicting stats for a pair of players, and they get to the Late War about half the time. My own experience is 17 of 44 games decided in the Late War, which is on the low side because my opponents were newer and overmatched (I was 36-8). Games reach the Late War more often if both players are evenly matched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12557" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T02:42:38.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-01T06:15:40.220" Score="3" ViewCount="3135" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a game, an opponent cast two instants, one after another. One did two damage to a creature, while the second instant did two damage and if that killed my creature, did 3 damage to me. My creature was a 4/4, so obviously it did 3 damage to me according to my opponent. Is that a legal move? Assuming the first instant resolved, would that leave my creature at a 4/2? Or would the card have no effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12812" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T23:39:57.767" LastActivityDate="2021-06-03T16:46:03.753" Title="Can a creature be killed by damage from two different instants?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24459" CreationDate="2015-06-01T06:53:52.627" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that was a legal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may cast multiple instants in the same turn. There's no limit beyond having the instants and being able to pay their cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After taking the first two damage, your 4/4 would still be a 4/4. Those two numbers represent power/toughness - toughness is not health, but the amount of damage a creature can withstand in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your 4/4 would be a 4/4 with two damage marked against it after the first spell, then a 4/4 with four damaged marked against it after the second. Since it has taken damage at least equal to its toughness in one turn, it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T17:03:05.507" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T17:03:05.507" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24454" CreationDate="2015-06-01T14:50:09.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Can I resolve all of my multiple special effects when it is my turn, or do I only resolve 1, then give the next player a chance to, etc.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends on whether&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;start with the current player and go around the table clockwise until all players pass in sequence&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;means&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start with the current player. They may either play a card with a Special ability or pass. Go around the table clockwise until all players pass in sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Start with the current player. They may either play cards with a Special ability or pass. Go around the table clockwise until all players pass in sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no telling for sure without an official answer (which I can't find), but it seems more natural to me if the players only got to play one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are definitely able to play more than one, but I believe you must give everyone else the chance to play one in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Also, if I know a player after me has 2 effects, can I wait until he does both and then resolve mine (essentially passing then choosing to resolve)?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can, but it's a gamble. If you pass, and someone else plays a Special, then you get another change to play a Special. This is explicitly mentioned in the rules. However, if you pass and he decides to pass instead of playing his second special, you won't get to play anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T14:50:09.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24426" CreationDate="2015-06-01T17:11:49.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, My preferred approach is to first make it clear to the &quot;problem player&quot; that the behavior can cause an unpleasant experience for other players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they present a potentially legitimate complaint, such as complaints that the game is unfairly difficult(perhaps specifically for them) or &quot;impossible&quot;, I will generally offer to explain how the situation could have turned out differently or been handled differently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the behavior is habitual or repeated, I typically warn that there will be some kind of consequences of continuing it, depending on how much of a problem it is causing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Fair points, I was approaching this from more of a long-term fix perspective than a short-term salvaging of the immediate atmosphere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would still suggest SOME form of alerting the problem player that they are causing a problem, because catering to their complaints or troublesome behavior just encourages more, in the long run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12807" LastEditorUserId="12807" LastEditDate="2015-06-01T19:45:16.273" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T19:45:16.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="177" CreationDate="2015-06-01T18:22:01.950" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I like Italy- 2nd edition AAE40 or AAG40- because everyone tends to disregard them since they start so weak.  If they can build up a large enough navy, then they're certainly a force to be reckoned with- and Africa is basically easy pickings for Italy.  I've captured London as Italy, I've even sent ships and troops over to help the Japanese with India and ANZAC when playing Global.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12820" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T18:22:01.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24426" CreationDate="2015-06-01T19:39:40.970" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's usually easier to prevent these things than it is to fix them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Set the mood&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Make sure everyone's doing alright. Put on some music, get some food and drinks on the table (or a lot of drinks, if you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to be sure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pick the right game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The type of games can also make a big difference. Some games are really harsh on those who fall behind. There's nothing that says 'get grumpy' like sitting at 3-5 VP during a 90 minute game of Settlers. If the skill levels in your game group are miles apart, try to level the playing field by picking games that require less skill, like Yahtzee or Pictionary.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even when the whole group settles on a complex and long game, I find that it helps to throw short and simple games in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Invite the right people&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The harshest truth is that some people just don't fit well with the rest of the group. You can't please everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T07:59:57.653" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T07:59:57.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24466" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24467" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:28:00.257" Score="4" ViewCount="744" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212577&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nature Shields Its Own&lt;/a&gt; is an archenemy card that allows you to place creature tokens on the battlefield blocking attacking creatures.  The rulings on its Gatherer page call out flying as an ability that this card bypasses, so does it also bypass &quot;unblockable&quot; and &quot;can't be blocked&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other cards that do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T01:07:46.037" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T01:07:46.037" Title="How does Nature Shields Its Own work with &quot;unblockable&quot; and &quot;can't be blocked&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-archenemy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24466" CreationDate="2015-06-01T20:36:00.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the plant token blocks the creature even if that creature &amp;quot;can't be blocked&amp;quot;. A ruling on Nature Shields Its Own's Gatherer page says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Plant token blocks the attacking creature &lt;strong&gt;even if the block couldn't legally be declared&lt;/strong&gt; (for example, if the attacking creature has flying).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can find other cards that do this by searching for the wording that Nature Shields Its Own uses: &amp;quot;onto the battlefield blocking&amp;quot;. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22onto%20the%20battlefield%20blocking%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this magiccards.info search&lt;/a&gt;, there are 3 cards that do this: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86therplasm&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;therplasm&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brimaz%2C%20King%20of%20Oreskos&quot;&gt;Brimaz, King of Oreskos&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flash%20Foliage&quot;&gt;Flash Foliage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T20:36:00.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24444" CreationDate="2015-06-01T23:48:52.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can mortgage property if it makes you enough money to clear your debt.  You can't mortgage things just to screw over the person who bankrupted you by forcing them to pay the 10% mortgage penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-01T23:48:52.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15058" CreationDate="2015-06-02T00:46:21.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of Nanuk(you should specify the game you mean somewhere) says Inukshuk cards may be used to &quot;fill any pair or set&quot;(singular) and that only double cards may be used twice. It does not say the inukshuk can BECOME a copy of another card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say no, they cannot be used in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T00:46:21.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24472" CreationDate="2015-06-02T01:40:00.210" Score="7" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Throne Room on Band of Misfits and choose Feast.  Since it left play, the next time I play Band of Misfits I can choose a new card, as per this ruling (from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Complete_and_All-Encompassing_Dominion_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Complete and All-Encompassing FAQ&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you use Throne Room to play Band of Misfits twice, it will be the&#xA;  chosen card the second time you play it, so you will play it as the&#xA;  same card twice. However, if the card is removed from play (like a&#xA;  Feast), it will be just a Band of Misfits again the second time. You&#xA;  can then choose another Action card from Supply to play it as. The&#xA;  card will stay where it is, and the chosen card's abilities will&#xA;  trigger even as the Band of Misfits will immidiately revert back to&#xA;  being just Band of Misfits (since it's not in play), but you will&#xA;  resolve the triggered abilites of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if I choose Island for the second use?  I don't think Band of Misfits has lost track of itself, so it seems like it should be able to move itself from the trash to your Island mat.  Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T14:40:24.727" Title="Band of Misfits copying Feast and then Island" Tags="|dominion|dominion-seaside|dominion-dark-ages|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24471" CreationDate="2015-06-02T02:12:33.493" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of September 2019, Band of Misfits has received &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=19892&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official errata&lt;/a&gt; that changes its behavior in regards to this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new text for Band of Misfits is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play a non-Command Action card from the Supply that costs less than this, leaving it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Band of Misfits no longer &quot;becomes&quot; another card, instead each time you play it, it causes you to play another card from the supply without that card moving from the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that when you use Band of Misfits to play a Feast, the Band of Misfits is no longer trashed. And neither is the Feast because the effect expects Feast to be in play but it isn't. And when you use it to play an Island, you will set aside a card from your hand onto the Island Mat, but neither the Band of Misfits nor the Island will get set aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the new result of Throne Room + Band of Misfits choosing Feast and then Island is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Throne Room &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Band of Misfits&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play a Feast from the Supply&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain a card costing up to $5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Band of Misfits (again)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play an Island from the Supply&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose a card from your hand to put on your Island Mat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T14:40:24.727" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T14:40:24.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24474" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:40:32.300" Score="3" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an example, take the Pygmies.  &quot;Each time you lose a Pygmy token, roll a reinforcement die and receive as many new Pygmies from storage tray as you rolled pips on the die (up to the number of Pygmies left).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you lose a Pygmy, it goes back to the storage tray and then if you roll a 1 or more you can get it back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this work that way for all races/powers?  they always go back to the storage tray (unless another rule says otherwise) and are available for any power/gift that brings them back?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T17:10:59.620" Title="When races are defeated, do the tokens all go back to the tray for redraw (if power allows)?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24473" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:56:41.380" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. From the rules on conquering regions in the base game, on what to do if you have been conquered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Permanently discard one Race token&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;back into the Storage&#xA;  tray&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And from the rules for Sorcerers, for example&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;with one of&#xA;  your own &lt;strong&gt;taken from the storage tray&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T14:56:41.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24473" CreationDate="2015-06-02T14:57:11.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a territory containing a player's active race is conquered, one of the tokens goes back to the tray and that player gets back the rest of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does mean that they could potentially come back via special powers. Of course, it doesn't really matter which of your tokens the special power gives you, and so if the race has plenty of extra tokens (like the Skeletons or Sorcerers), in practice it'll often be a moot point. It matters more for races like the Mudmen, which can easily run out of tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness, from the base game rules on conquering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Race tokens of another player occupied the Region prior&#xA;  to its conquest, that player must immediately take all of these&#xA;  Race tokens back in hand and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Permanently discard one Race token back into the Storage&#xA;  tray;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Keep the other Race tokens in hand, and redeploy them&#xA;  in any other Region(s) still occupied by his race (if any) as&#xA;  the final action of the current player's turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T17:10:59.620" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T17:10:59.620" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24476" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24480" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:29:29.987" Score="6" ViewCount="1689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last week we had a bit of a situation in our commander game and we would like to clarify this for future reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Our Situation&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the players attacked with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bruna%2C%20Light%20of%20Alabaster&quot;&gt;Bruna, Light of Alabaster&lt;/a&gt; who gained infect thanks to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corrupted%20Conscience&quot;&gt;Corrupted Conscience&lt;/a&gt; and had a power over 20. The attacked player responded with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shining%20Shoal&quot;&gt;Shining Shoal&lt;/a&gt; with the X being 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Now for the Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two players are the last remaining players on the game, as player 1 and 2 have already lost. Does the game end in a draw? Did the Bruna, Light of Alabaster's player win the game? Or does he lose because he obtained 10 poison counters due to Shining Shoal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12827" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T17:28:08.443" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T17:28:08.443" Title="Poison Counters and Damage Redirection" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24476" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:42:34.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this case, assuming that Bruna has 10 power, and that the damage is redirected to its controller, the player controlling Bruna loses due to having 10 poison counters. Infect damage is still damage, and can be prevented or redirected like any other damage. The only difference is how it affects the thing it deals damage to. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Infect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for infect&lt;/a&gt; say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.89b&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt to a player by a source with infect doesn’t cause that player to lose life. Rather, it causes the player to get that many poison counters. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.89c&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt to a creature by a source with infect isn’t marked on that creature. Rather, it causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:42:34.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24476" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:43:52.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shining Shoal will redirect up to 10 damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Bruna deals 5, then 5 will be redirected. If 10 is dealt then 10 is redirected. If 15 is dealt then 10 is redirected and 5 is not, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All damage dealt by Bruna will be done to players as poison counters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if this is enough to kill the attacking player then they will lose. If not then the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5912" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:43:52.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24476" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:45:42.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shining Shoal will redirect up to 10 damage from Bruna this turn (we'll assume the redirect target is the attacking player). The damage isn't prevented, but is redirected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of Shining Shoal, the 5 damage from Bruna &lt;em&gt;is not&lt;/em&gt; dealt to the defending player, so the defending player does not receive poison counters from infect. However, even if Shining Shoal is able to redirect the next 10 damage, Bruna is only dealing 5 damage this combat, so only 5 damage will be redirected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Shining Shoal's effect, Bruna deals 5 damage to the attacking player. Since Bruna has infect, the attacking player receives 5 poison counters instead of losing 5 life. If, through some other means, Bruna continues to deal damage to the defending player (or creatures they control), Shining Shoal will continue to redirect the remaining 5 damage until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T15:45:42.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24476" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:49:19.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming nobody has any poison counters before Bruna attacks, Bruna's controller will lose the game assuming that her power is at least 10, but less than 20 when she deals damage, and it will be a draw if her power is 20 or greater, if her power is less than 10 her controller will have poison counters equal to her power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurs because Shining Shoal replaces the first X damage dealt by the chosen sources (in this case 10) and redirects it to the chosen target (presumably Bruna's controller). The redirection doesn't change the source of the damage so it will still have infect, thus it will still deal damage in the form of poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if Bruna's power is less than 10 all of the damage will be redirected to Bruna's controller; nobody will win or lose. If her power is at least 10, but less than 20, ten damage will be redirected to her controller and you would take the remainder; her controller would lose. If her power is 20 or greater 10 of the damage would be redirected to her controller and the remainder of the damage would be dealt to you, since you both have 10 or more poison counters you would both lose the game a the same time which ends up being a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.89b&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt to a player by a source with infect doesn’t cause that player to lose life. Rather, it causes the player to get that many poison counters. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T16:30:11.130" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T16:30:11.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24481" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-02T15:58:00.547" Score="12" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature takes damage from any source, that damage is tracked. If there is enough damage to overcome their toughness, they die. Are there ways to remove damage from creatures after they've been dealt damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3120" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T16:11:48.967" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T18:52:58.867" Title="Can damage be removed from creatures after it's already been dealt?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24481" CreationDate="2015-06-02T16:21:55.550" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only ways damage marked on a creature is removed are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cleanup step at the end of the turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a creature regenerates instead of being destroyed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a creature enchanted with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5BTotem%5D+%5Barmor%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Totem Armor&lt;/a&gt; would be destroyed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyramids&quot;&gt;Pyramids&lt;/a&gt; has prevented a land (which had been/is a creature with damage marked on it) from being destroyed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the last three replace destruction of the creature with removing all damage, but it doesn't need to be the damage that causes the destruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;119.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Damage marked on a creature remains until the cleanup step, even if that permanent stops being a creature. If the total damage marked on a creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed as a state-based action (see rule 704). All damage marked on a permanent is removed when it regenerates (see rule 701.12, “Regenerate”) and during the cleanup step (see rule 514.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.88a&lt;/strong&gt; Totem armor is a static ability that appears on some Auras. “Totem armor” means “If enchanted permanent would be destroyed, instead remove all damage marked on it and destroy this Aura.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T18:52:58.867" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T18:52:58.867" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="681" CreationDate="2015-06-02T19:23:50.527" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I taught myself how to beat Treasure Bot (our name for this effect, to distinguish from the wait-for-platinum strategy Prosperity introduces) by having simple rules which -- while not on their own necessarily better than treasure bot, were useful for developing the &quot;feel&quot; of a good deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;The zeroth rule:&lt;/strong&gt; if you see a way to buy a province, do so. This is called the Goose Rule, and being able to get a province is called &quot;having the Goose&quot;.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first rule:&lt;/strong&gt; on the first two turns, you're likely to get a 3/4 split. unless your 4 is going to supply you with money, or either card will trash your junk, your 3 really should be silver. (And likely anyway; remember that a silver / chapel start is really good, even though they're both cheap.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The second rule:&lt;/strong&gt; if you had a terminal action (an action that doesn't give you +Actions) in hand that you did not play because you were out of actions, do not buy a terminal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The third rule:&lt;/strong&gt; if you had unused actions, do not buy a Village. Usually, don't buy anything that gives +multiple actions -- the other benefits are not as good as what you ought to be able to get elsewhere. (Having a bunch of action splitters and no terminals is called the Wolf Trap.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fourth rule:&lt;/strong&gt; is the card you're thinking of buying better than three of the cards in your opening hand? In other words, were there three cards in your hand that, had you had this card instead, the turn would have been better? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The fifth rule:&lt;/strong&gt; When 5 of the provinces are gone, start buying duchies at every opportunity. When 9 are gone, buy all the green you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The sixth rule:&lt;/strong&gt; don't buy more than one of any given cost 2 card, 2 of any given cost 3, or 3 of any given cost 4 &lt;em&gt;until&lt;/em&gt; you find yourself wishing you had it in a hand you didn't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you play, you'll learn when to ignore these rules or make exceptions; the fifth rule might get some caveats about whether or not you're winning, or if you're about to reshuffle, for instance. I don't follow these rules any more, because they have taught me what I needed to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A big part of better-than-treasure-bot play is designing your strategy. Look at the cards available. Figure out what combinations are possible, and what work at cross-purposes.  Some cards help you make your deck smaller (by getting rid of bad cards via trashing, e.g. chapel, or handing off, e.g. ambassador.) Some cards help you improve the cards you have (by trashing and replacing, e.g. upgrade or remodel). Some cards help you get past cards you don't want in hand (by drawing and discarding them, e.g. warehouse or oasis). These are all valid tactics, but they mostly work at odds -- if you trash your useless stuff, you won't have much to improve or get past; usually, pick one of these and go with it. Similarly, some decks work by always being pretty good; others work by sometimes being terrible and sometimes being great. think about how the cards work together, or don't. In general, if you wouldn't want both cards in hand together, don't buy one of them.  And if your strategy relies on getting both cards together, think about whether it's really the right strategy, or work extra hard to make it happen. (Consider that getting two treasure maps together is rare enough that it's worth 4 gold on top of your deck and isn't over-powered.  BTW, if you're going to try to make treasure maps work, you need a lot of trashing and/or 3 or more maps.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastEditorUserId="12779" LastEditDate="2015-06-02T21:42:28.620" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:42:28.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1085" CreationDate="2015-06-02T20:54:55.470" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I add something from my own experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/226673/abbey-mayor-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Abbey and Mayor&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;It adds a lot of variety in my opinion.&#xA;It introduces a &quot;super cloister&quot;, a &quot;super knight&quot; and the &quot;wagon&quot; that is very interesting. Needs experienced player in my opinion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/118614/carcassonne-ferries&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Ferries&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;Some road fun finally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree on the above answer with River ( combine 1 and 2) and Bridges, inn and cathedrals, builders and Traders, castles are a must have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With all above you have already a lot of tiles, fun rules, and no nonsenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expansion that i have and i do not recommend:&#xA;-Princess and dragon&#xA;-Tower &#xA;Basically those are based on meeple removal that is a feature id do not like. &#xA;Also keeping track of the fairy is so annoying.&#xA;Interesting point from princess and dragon is that it adds 30 tiles to game, so maybe it can be bought for this.&#xA;Other mini expansion ( 1 - 2 and 4 and 6 ) looks like useless.&#xA;Bazars&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12829" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T20:54:55.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6535" CreationDate="2015-06-02T21:57:45.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not found Gardens to be anything like unbeatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many Dominion strategies, one counter is &quot;also play it&quot;. If we're splitting the gardens, they aren't as good. In fact, with Gardens in particular, buying them just for denial -- whether if i'm trashing them (as the Bishop answer, but it also works with remodel, etc.) or just not getting many points for them -- can be particularly effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way to counter a Gardens strategy is with trashing attacks -- Thief or Pirate Ship removing your spare treasures might keep you below your next point-shelf, especially if you're rushing things. If you're ending the game after 17 turns, even with a workshop or a +buy you're unlikely to be getting to 40 cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T21:57:45.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4216" CreationDate="2015-06-02T22:09:14.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;So many of the Alchemy cards don't make sense unless you have potions that giving them potionless costs seems like it completely misses the point. That said, I disagree that a pair of potions is enough -- when I go potion I almost always buy two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastActivityDate="2015-06-02T22:09:14.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24490" CreationDate="2015-06-03T06:01:24.527" Score="4" ViewCount="2206" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance Mr. Grumpers from the Kitty Cat faction says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose a minion. It has -2 power until the end of the turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a minion be rendered with negative power, or is it always at least zero as one might expect in a realistic attack situation--you know, one of Zombies, Pirates, Dinosaurs and Kitty Cats attacking an alien home world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Glymmer from the Fairy faction has this power&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Talent: Until the start of your next turn, either another minion has -4 power (minimum power 0), OR this minion has +1 power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I play Glymmer, and then, on my next turn, use his talent to force another minion to 0 power, then play Mr Grumpers to send him to -2 because there is no &quot;minimum power 0&quot; clause in Mr. Grumpers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T06:07:47.327" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T11:51:58.590" Title="Can minions have negative power?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24200" CreationDate="2015-06-03T07:22:53.680" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I can get to &lt;strong&gt;231&lt;/strong&gt; using the restrictions of the OP, being a 3 player game and only the Leaders and Cities expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wonders used are Byzantium (A) West, Babylon (B) You, and Roma (B) East.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A summary of the points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Military - 16 - from an Age II Stables&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coins - 27 - finish with 82 coins from neighbours purchasing from you, Gambling House&amp;amp;Den and coins from chaining through Vitruvius Leader&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wonder - 3 - from first stage on Babylon (B)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Civilian - 6 - from Age III Senate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Science - 110 - 5 sets, 11 greens + Spy Ring to copy the 12th, Multis from Babylon Stage 3 and Scientists Guild and 1 more symbol using Courtesans Guild to copy West's Leader&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guilds - 27 - all from Gamers Guild (coins)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaders - 42 - 15 from Aristotle for 5 sets and 27 from Midas (coins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full log of what is played each turn and how the money flows is in the picture below. Hopefully there are no mistakes, however happy to get corrections and/or improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy! Brett.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbxj5.png&quot; alt=&quot;7 Wonders max score for 3 players using Leaders and Cities&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12810" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T07:22:53.680" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24488" CreationDate="2015-06-03T11:51:58.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the core rules don't answer this, it is explicitly covered in the expansions. From the most recent expansion, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pretty Pretty Smash Up&lt;/a&gt;, page 12:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The power of a minion not in play is only the number printed on it, but&#xA;  once in play its power includes all modifications. &lt;strong&gt;Its power may never go below zero.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T11:51:58.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24491" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T12:32:17.530" Score="1" ViewCount="1773" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During Phase 3 when playing trait cards, the rules state a player may discard one or more trait cards.  Can a player just remove traits or must he replace traits?  &lt;em&gt;Example&lt;/em&gt;: Player one has three trait cards on one species, one of them being 'carnivore'. Can that player choose to discard the carnivore card and become a vegetarian? Or must he replace carnivore with another trait?  Or can you even replace or remove the carnivore trait?   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you have a long neck carnivore? Or does carnivore negate the long neck?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When changing a trait card, must you reveal what card you will be replacing immediately or do you reveal your traits and then determine what you will be replacing? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12833" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T21:11:14.337" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T21:11:14.337" Title="How do trait cards work in Evolution?" Tags="|evolution-origin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24200" CreationDate="2015-06-03T13:43:14.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a score of &lt;strong&gt;250&lt;/strong&gt; points, using Leaders, Cities and 2 wonders from the Wonder Pack. I score 229 from science, 18 from war and 3 from coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy focuses on science, and grabs an easy 18 bonus points with a first age war card. See the image at the bottom of this answer for an example game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Goals&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main player has the following goals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy all 3 science leaders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build every science card:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 in the first age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 in the second age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 in the third age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build 3 science symbols from the wonder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build the Scientists Guild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build the spy city card each age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Win all wars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The science, guild and spy cards, along with the 3 wonder stages, take up 19 of MP's 21 plays. This leaves 2 plays. Because MP has no starting resource, one of these plays should be a resource so that the neighbours can buy from MP. A clay pit (ore/brick) will be used in 6 of MP's core plays, saving the most money while providing variety to allow neighbours to purchase. The remaining free play is a first age war card to win all the wars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Setup&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My example uses duplicate Palace and Observatory, so requires 7 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The main player (MP) is Mannekin Pis (A).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To the right is Babylon (A).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To the left is The Great Wall (A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To the far right is anyone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To the far left is Roma (B).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Leaders&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This uses the 3 science leaders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pythagoras (gear).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ptolemy (tablet).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Euclid (compass).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Wonder Stages&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MP's wonder must be completed by the end of the second age as there are no spare plays in the third. Thanks to the choice of neighbours, you can end up with 3 science symbols from the MP. When MP copies from the Great Wall, MP chooses which stage to build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First stage: choose free science from China A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second stage: free science from Babylon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third stage: choose free science from China A again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Neighbours' Responsibilities&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between them, MP's neighbours must do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build the resources MP needs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Feed MP enough money to keep buying resources and leaders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build 3 different green science cards with the same symbol.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If war cards have been built, build diplomacy every round to allow MP to win wars.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Scoring Science&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that your neighbours have built the appropriate duplicate green cards, spy symbols become free choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 of each symbol from the 3 leaders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 of each symbol from the green cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 free choice from MP wonder (2 from China, 1 from Babylon).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 free choice from the Scientists Guild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 free choice from city spy cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using all 7 free choice symbols as a single symbol (cogs for this example), we have 12 of one symbol and 5 of each of the two others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;    |Gear |Comp |Tabl | Set |&#xA;Num |  12 |   5 |   5 |   5 |&#xA;Sco | 144 +  25 +  25 +  35 = 229&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Example Game&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYFjH.png&quot; alt=&quot;Example Science Game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AYFjH.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Click here for the full-size image&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China builds military to feed MP coins in the first age, and then builds diplomacy every round. Thus Roma builds no war.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roma builds as many brown cards as possible to maximise China's Vineyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Babylon builds no war.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ephesos (far right) builds as many grey cards as possible to maximise Babylon's Bazaar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;China and Babylon, between them, build 3 different green science gear cards for MP's spies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;MP ends up with 9 coins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T18:06:39.400" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T18:06:39.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24491" CreationDate="2015-06-03T14:44:12.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Can a player just remove traits or must he replace traits.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can. While the original rules didn't allow this, the most recent rules allows one to remove any number of traits from any number of creatures in the Play a Trait step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play a Trait&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player may place a Trait Card &lt;strong&gt;facedown&lt;/strong&gt; above one of his species.  A species may not have any duplicate Trait Cards and may not have more than 3 Trait Cards. A player may discard one or more Trait Cards from any of his species at this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can you have a longneck carnivore?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, but the &lt;em&gt;Long Neck&lt;/em&gt; has no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Carnivores may never take Plant Food, even with other traits such as &lt;em&gt;Long Neck&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Cooperation&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;Foraging&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Do you inform what card you will be replacing immediately or do you reveal your traits and then determine what you will be replacing?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the next player starts playing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original version of the rules made it crystal clear that the discard must happen before you play the Trait Card facedown. The updated rules are a little laxer. Discarding Trait Cards is done as part of playing Trait Cards, and you must be done this before the next player starts doing the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting with the First Player, a player may play as many Trait Cards as he wants, or save them for the next round. There are three things a player can do (in any order) with each Trait Card when it is his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T17:00:47.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-03T18:53:23.997" Score="0" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have 4 creatures on the battlefield, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394542&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dragon Tempest&lt;/a&gt; enchantment out as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Descent%20of%20the%20Dragons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Descent of the Dragons&lt;/a&gt; and replace all 4 of my creatures, how does this interact with dragon tempest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 4 damage dealt to target controller or target creature (enchantment interprets all 4 dragons being placed as one event).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 10 damage dealt to target controller or target creature (enchantment triggers for each time dragon enters battlefield (1 dmg, 2 dmg, 3 dmg, 4 dmg)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Something else entirely!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12836" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-03T19:31:33.500" LastActivityDate="2015-06-03T19:31:33.500" Title="Interaction with descent of the dragons and dragon tempest" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-06-03T19:23:05.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24496" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24497" CreationDate="2015-06-03T19:53:55.010" Score="7" ViewCount="1231" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion my family sometimes complains, that the game is over to fast because they couldn't build up their deck. While Dominion is designed to work that way, it might be useful to try some rule modification to slow it down somewhat while people still can buy the different action-cards. Have you a way to this that you recommend? How for instance would making money and point-cards more expensive would work out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T23:07:06.177" Title="What is a good modification of rules to make a game of Dominion slower?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2015-06-03T20:18:28.430" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Things that require no actual house rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Get and use the Prosperity expansion (or the Dominion Base Cards set), and play more games with Colonies/Platinum.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games with Colonies usually last longer, because it is not often worth buying Provinces. Instead of trying to get to $8 for Provinces, you are trying to get to $11 for Colonies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Use setups that create longer games.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some setups make the game go longer than others. Games with attacks will last longer on average than games without attacks. Games with more powerful cards like Wharf or cards that gain more cards like Workshop will be shorter on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like Philosopher's Stone (from Alchemy), and Counting House (from Prosperity) become better in longer games. Any cards that give out Curses usually make the game go longer, because people's decks will be clogged. Strong trashing cards like Chapel will usually make the game go much faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, alternate VP cards like Vineyards (from Alchemy), Duke (from Intrigue), Gardens (from Dominion), and Silk Road (from Hinterlands) can make the game go much longer, because one player can ignore Provinces completely and go for points with those cards instead (if the rest of the setup makes that a viable strategy). It takes 1 person a very long time to drain the entire Province pile, so if (in a 2 player game) 1 player is avoiding Provinces completely, he can make the game go long enough that his Vineyards and Dukes will be worth more than the Provinces that the other play managed to get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not personally tried either of the following (as I prefer to play multiple faster games than fewer slower games), but a couple ideas that come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Increase the number of Provinces available.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If playing 2 player, you can use all 12 instead of 8. For 3 or 4 player, you could use 15 or 16. Either take the extra cards from the Intrigue set if you have it; or just use blanks or unused cards as proxies. The biggest issue here is that players will need to learn to not start buying Provinces as early as normal. If they start buying Provinces as soon as they hit $8, then the first 8 Provinces may be bought up, but then it may become unlikely to ever be able to buy the last few because your decks are clogged. This will also not make any difference for some setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Increase the cost of Provinces, like you suggested.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do have to be careful with this, because in certain setups it can be literally impossible to ever reach certain amounts on a given turn; like if there's no way to increase your handsize. This will also not make any difference for some setups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T23:07:06.177" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T23:07:06.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1985" CreationDate="2015-06-04T02:23:35.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played hundreds of games on the dominon android app -- which randomly selects card sets. The highest scoring (single turn) hand ever was 38 victory points. The deck needed to have these cards to make the combo work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;city, platinum, cultist, Goons, Bishop, caravan, counterfeit, and Colony&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is something of a 7 card combo. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Early game:&lt;/strong&gt; other players need to buy the bishop and use it. This lets you thin our your estates and coppers. Meanwhile, you buy silver (3) and caravans (4), then cultists (5) and goons (6). Having 2 caravans and 3 cultists and 1 goon will ensure you can fill the other players up with ruins AND draw your entire deck, which you will use exclusively to buy gold and platinum, 1 counterfeit and 3 city cards for the mid-game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End game:&lt;/strong&gt; If you have at some point a deck with 3 cultists, 2 goons, 1 counterfeit, 2-4 caravans, and at least 3 platinum and several more gold and silver pieces, you will eventually manage to pull off the 38 point combo turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combo: play your caravans and city cards first, then your cultists, which are useful as a &quot;draw 2&quot; card that keeps playing more cultists as a free action. This can usually get you enough cards in hand to have 20+ gold. Also, because you've used the cultists to load everybody else up with ruins they will probably be buying up all the duchies. But in order to seal the deal the counterfeit card is absolutely essential, as are drawing 2 goons cards. Goons and counterfeits give you extra buys, and each colony is essentially worth 12 victory points if you buy it after playing Goons twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my magic turn I played 2 City, 1 counterfeit, 2 caravans, 3 platinum, 2 gold, 1 silver, 3 cultist cards. This gave me 4 buys and 33 coins. I purchased 3 colonies and 1 copper for a whopping 38 points!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12839" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T02:23:35.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2015-06-04T11:38:50.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove Gold from the game. If you want to go further, remove Silver from the game too. This will limit which Action cards can be used, as some of them specifically work with the money cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I first started to play, I didn't buy much Silver or Gold. Then I played a friend who basically only bought Silver and Gold, and not many action cards. He demolished me by being able to afford Provinces a lot sooner than me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastEditorUserId="11743" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T08:02:24.853" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T08:02:24.853" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T17:57:35.683" Score="8" ViewCount="1385" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm new to card games but I really enjoy the minigame called Gwent in the Witcher 3 video game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the mechanics of this game represented closely in any existing physical board or card games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12843" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:09:39.877" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:09:39.877" Title="Does Gwent from Witcher 3 take inspiration from existing tabletop games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-06-04T19:20:38.217" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-04T18:22:17.630" Score="0" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have the following in cribbage : 8H, 8D, 9H, 9D, 10C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I come up with 4 double runs  8H, 8D, 9H, 10C and&#xA;                              8H. 8D, 9D, 10C and&#xA;                              8H, 9H, 9D, 10C and&lt;br&gt;&#xA;                              8D, 9H, 9D, 10C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but I know it's not possible to get 32. What am I doing wrong? Is this 16 or 24?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12844" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:14:07.663" Title="Cribbage counting a hand" Tags="|cribbage|counting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24502" CreationDate="2015-06-04T18:27:01.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't count it as 4 double runs, as that double counts a number of elements.  It is 4 runs of 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8H, 9H, 10C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8H, 9D, 10C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8D, 9H, 10C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8D, 9D, 10C&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and 2 pairs (the 8s and 9s) for a total of 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T18:27:01.970" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24504" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13968" CreationDate="2015-06-04T20:08:08.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anachronism_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Anachronism&lt;/a&gt; is a CCG that has no shuffling. On the other hand, that's because your &quot;deck&quot; is only five cards and you start with them all in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="916" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-06-04T20:21:01.797" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T20:21:01.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12557" CreationDate="2015-06-04T20:24:25.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;old thread, but I stumbled upon it when googling, so I'm sure others will to.&#xA;There's a good comparison of all the dixit products here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/171700/dixit-product-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/171700/dixit-product-guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12846" LastActivityDate="2015-06-04T20:24:25.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24502" CreationDate="2015-06-04T23:37:32.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always called this kind of configuration a &quot;quadruple run of 3&quot; for 16.  There are 4 runs of three (2 choices for the 8, 2 choices for the 9, 1 choice for the 10 or &lt;code&gt;2*2*1=4&lt;/code&gt;) and 2 pairs.  So the hand is worth 16 (&lt;code&gt;(4*3)+(2*2)=16&lt;/code&gt;).  Obviously, some quadruple runs also have some fifteens built into them that you have to count.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that &quot;double runs&quot; are just shortcut configurations for (2*3+2) 8 points.  This is a completely separate shortcut.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To round everything out, there is also a triple run of 3 (like 8-8-8-9-T) for 15 points.  It is 3 runs of three, and 3 pairs for &lt;code&gt;(3*3)+(2*2)=15&lt;/code&gt;.  Note that even in this example, people sometime use the shortcut that trips (the 8-8-8) are worth 3 pairs for 6 points.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these shortcuts just save counting time.  Remember that everything in cribbage still boils down to fifteens, runs, pairs, and flushes (in hand only).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="10162" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T19:14:07.663" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:14:07.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24518" CreationDate="2015-06-05T07:04:01.247" Score="10" ViewCount="3430" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most games, everyone starts off with the potential to either win or lose.  At the end, they've all either won or lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5erOS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;normal game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games have a player who's like a referee -- they can neither win nor lose, they're just the referee, and they're in that state from the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IcdFL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;game with referee&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has a game ever been made where everyone starts in the same state, then at the end, some win, some lose, and some neither win nor lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eKyIh.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;game with three end states&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T22:27:09.337" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T22:16:09.493" Title="Does a game exist where some win, some lose, and some don't?" Tags="|game-design|end-game|" AnswerCount="13" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2015-06-05T08:17:23.417" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games are designed to make someone win and the rest lose. That's why they are called games. There are games where all players can lose and in the same way that they all can win, Coöp games are like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played a lot of games and have only found games where one can draw (eg chess, checkers, etc) but than nobody loses, not a situation where one wins, one loses and the rest doesn't lose. I've searched on the internet for a good half hour and I couldn't find any game which at the end have the state you asked about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From wikipedia about games:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;When you strip away the genre differences and the technological complexities, all games share four defining traits: a goal, rules, a feedback system, and voluntary participation.&quot;&#xA;Concluding, a game has a goal, don't achieve that goal and you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in how I see board games:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you play a game, you win or you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T08:17:23.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24509" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24513" CreationDate="2015-06-05T08:42:43.050" Score="2" ViewCount="8865" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of web sites that give you cribbage rules. There are small variations here and there and even the &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official&lt;/a&gt;&quot; source reads ambiguously to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To narrow my question, let's talk about scoring rules after &quot;the play / pegging&quot;, when the dealer and the pone score their respective hands and the crib.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there are precise summary of the scoring rules, that I can use as a reference? I would prefer the actual rules wording to examples. Examples are very useful for illustrating a rule, but they are not as good for defining rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, to the source of my confusion. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/cribbage/85.php?page_id=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;one source&lt;/a&gt; I read this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Counting the Hands&lt;/strong&gt;. When play ends, the three hands are counted &amp;lt;...&gt; The basic scoring formations are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combination Counts&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fifteen&lt;/em&gt;. Each combination of cards that totals 15 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pair&lt;/em&gt;. Each pair of cards of the same rank 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Run&lt;/em&gt;. Each combination of three or more 1cards in sequence (for each card in the sequence)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Flush&lt;/em&gt;. Four cards of the same suit in hand 4&#xA;  (excluding the crib, and the starter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Four cards in hand or crib of the same 5 suit as the starter &#xA;  (There is no count for four-flush in the crib that isnot of same suit as the starter)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;His Nobs&lt;/em&gt;. Jack of the same suit as starter in hand or crib 1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Combinations&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;In the above table, the word combination is used in the strict technical sense. Each and every combination of two cards that make a pair, of two or more cards that make 15, or of three or more cards that make a run, count separately&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The emphasis in the last paragraph is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The source goes ahead and gives the following example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: A hand (including the starter) comprised of 8, 7, 7, 6, 2 scores 8 points for four combinations that total 15: the 8 with one 7, and the 8 with the other 7; the 6, 2 with each of the two 7s. The same hand also scores 2 for a pair, and 6 for two runs of three (8, 7, 6 using each of the two 7s). The total score is 16. An experienced player computes the hand thus: &quot;Fifteen 2, fifteen 4, fifteen 6, fifteen 8, and 8 for double run is 16.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example makes perfect sense to me. Now following the same logic, let's assume we have 2, 2, 3, 4, 5. According to the &quot;strict technical sense&quot;, I can see the following scoring combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2, 3, 4 x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2, 3, 4, 5 x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3, 4, 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2, 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which gives us 6 + 8 + 3 + 2 = 19&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But everyone knows that 19 is impossible, and in the same source a little bit further we read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;D. A run of four, with one card duplicated, counts 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I understand why. That's because only the longest 4 cards sequence counts. The two 3 card sequences it contains do not. So it's just 8 + 2. 6 and 3 do not count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I cannot find is an authoritative source that properly words this rule. Because as per rules as written in the source, my calculation would be correct. The American Cribbage Congress rules do not address this ambiguity at all, it looks like they are assuming, that everyone knows this anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can some one either sum up the actual hand scoring  rules for me, or point me anywhere, where it's already done - clearly and unambiguously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastEditorUserId="2737" LastEditDate="2018-01-20T02:34:37.487" LastActivityDate="2018-01-20T02:34:37.487" Title="Cribbage scoring rules explanation" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15344" CreationDate="2015-06-05T08:43:33.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago I released &lt;strong&gt;RiseTournaments&lt;/strong&gt; app (real time Reversi), I organize weekly tournaments with great prizes for the top 3 players. It's free and available on the App store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;link: &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/risetournaments/id942714819&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/risetournaments/id942714819&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12847" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2022-06-19T08:27:47.597" LastActivityDate="2022-06-19T08:27:47.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2015-06-05T09:06:33.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any and here is why I think that is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A situation such as in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15363/nexus-ops&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nexus Ops&lt;/a&gt; where the game ends as soon as 1 player is eliminated could be re-imagined that the victor is the player who defeated an other and they are the loser, everyone else was just there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me it does not sound like an enjoyable mechanic to be the actual result of a game, but could be used as a possible scoring mechanic to add and remove some bonus points to those players involved in ending the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12848" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T09:06:33.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24060" CreationDate="2015-06-05T10:17:48.333" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, although it can only happen as part of the effect of another card - it's not something you can choose to do when your vanguard is in Legion. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cardfight.wikia.com/wiki/Star-vader,_Blaster_Joker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star-vader, Blaster Joker&lt;/a&gt; can retire one of the opponent's legion mates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where Legion is broken, the vanguard is no longer considered to be in Legion, and it cannot Legion again. You must ride a new Legion Leader and activate Legion with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9947" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T10:17:48.333" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24509" CreationDate="2015-06-05T10:43:57.173" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'v been googling like crazy last hour or so, and here is what I found. A person on BGG recommended pagat.com for comprehensive coverage of old public domain card games. Indeed there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/adders/crib6.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an article there covering cribbage&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll cite the relevant part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Show&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players now retrieve the cards that they put down during the play and score for combinations of cards held in hand. First the non-dealer's hand is exposed, and scored. The start card also counts as part of the hand when scoring combinations. All valid scores from the following list are counted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;15&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  Any combination of cards adding up to 15 pips scores 2 points. For example king, jack, five, five would score 10 points altogether: 8 points for four fifteens, since the king and the jack can each be paired with either of the fives, plus 2 more points for the pair of fives. You would say &quot;Fifteen two, fifteen four, fifteen six, fifteen eight and a pair makes ten&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pair&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  A pair of cards of the same rank score 2 points. Three cards of the same rank contain 3 different pairs and thus score a total of 6 points for pair royal. Four of a kind contain 6 pairs and so score 12 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Run&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  Three cards of consecutive rank (irrespective of suit), such as ace-2-3, score 3 points for a run. A hand such as 6-7-7-8 contains two runs of 3 (as well as two fifteens and a pair) and so would score 12 altogether. A run of four cards, such as 9-10-J-Q scores 4 points (&lt;em&gt;this is slightly illogical - you might expect it to score 6 because it contains two runs of 3, but it doesn't. The runs of 3 within it don't count - you just get 4&lt;/em&gt;), and a run of five cards scores 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flush&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  If all four cards of the hand are the same suit, 4 points are scored for flush. If the start card is the same suit as well, the flush is worth 5 points. There is no score for having 3 hand cards and the start all the same suit. Note also that there is no score for flush during the play - it only counts in the show.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One For His Nob&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;  If the hand contains the jack of the same suit as the start card, you peg One for his nob (sometimes known, especially in North America, as &quot;one for his nobs&quot; or &quot;one for his nibs&quot;)..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not entirely scientific, this is the most unambiguous description that I've come across so far, and it also acknowledges a feeling that I was getting that this particular rule is slightly illogical. Italic above is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2737" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T10:43:57.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24514" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2015-06-05T11:10:18.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually there is a game wich has that kind of ending.&#xA;It is called Shadow Hunter.&#xA;In the beginning people get a random card (hidden for the other players) with a character on it and a win condition associated. &#xA;There are three factions : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadows : They have to &quot;kill&quot; all the Hunters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hunters : They have to &quot;kill&quot; all the Shadows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neutral : Each one has a particular goal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are enough players in the game, there are characters from the three factions in play. And if a Neutral makes it to the end of the game but has not fulfilled it's win condition, then it's a non-winning player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not really what you described as not all the players begin with the same win/loose conditions. But because it is random everybody begins with the same odds of having a win/loose character (shadow or hunter) or having a win/loose/nothing character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope my answer is useful to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12850" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T11:12:27.290" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T11:12:27.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2015-06-05T11:19:24.407" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;To truly meet with your criteria, there would have to be a ruleset that determines winning conditions as well as a ruleset that determines losing conditions, and some situation that does not fit either of those rulesets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best example I can think of that comes close to what you're looking for is Saboteur (+expansion). A round of Saboteur can end in a winning team, a losing team, and a neutral party. During a round, character roles can be swapped so you never know where you'll end up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at a round in this game, you could say that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everyone has a chance of ending up in the winning team&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everyone has a chance of ending up in the losing team&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;everyone has a chance of ending up as a neutral party, not concerned with winning or losing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of these rounds, were it a standalone game, would fit your criteria; but only if you ignore the gold that is awarded (which would very likely affect the metagame). The winning team is awarded gold for winning the round, while neutral parties are awarded gold for secondary conditions. The game, made up of 3 rounds, is judged by the total gold collected by each player. Only one player wins (or several tie for first place), the rest loses. In its current form, I don't think Saboteur could be used as an answer to your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certain that a game could be made that works as you describe, so eventually the answer to your question will be &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;. But without rules that explicitly isolate a group of players as &quot;neither won nor lost&quot; I'm certain these players will be identified as &quot;haven't won, therefore lost&quot;. So for now, my answer is &lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, such a game doesn't exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless you'd count Calvinball.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T08:37:11.557" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T08:37:11.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2015-06-05T11:56:43.760" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Winning and losing seems like a binary question.  And at the core of this argument, you have to define what a win and a loss is.  Usually, you're defining the win condition and not the lose condition (though, this isn't always the case, such as NetRunner, which has you lose the game if you take too much Grip damage or if you run out of a deck as the Corp).  The lose condition simply comes about if you don't win.  At that point, you are clearly in the lose category.  Else, if you were able to obtain the win condition at the end of the game, you'd be able to be a winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When people play board or card games, they are looking to win.  And in the psychology of humans: if you didn't win, you've lost.  There really is no way to be in the situation that you're describing without redefining what the game is to you.  One way to do this is looking at how well you've done in the game instead of how badly you beat someone.  Agricola is a perfect example for this.  While you are competing with people in the game for actions on the board, you are essentially playing the game by yourself.  And, at the end of the game, instead of counting your points against everyone else, you count your points and see if you did well.  At that point, you can consider that you simply played a game and got a score...much like many old arcade games that never had an ending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another pathway you have to consider are coop board games.  Things like Eldritch Horror, Arkham Horror, X-Com, Pandemic, and a few variants of Legendary.  These are games where the group of people playing are actually playing against the board, which is simply an AI ruled by RNG.  At this point, all players are clearly in the win or lose category.  They either beat the board and win or they don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, winning and losing isn't so cut and dry, but one needs to define what a win and a loss means to them.  At that point, you have your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T11:56:43.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24529" CreationDate="2015-06-05T12:12:19.183" Score="6" ViewCount="1200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a very simple card game but I am worried some of the mechanics may be shared with others.&#xA;Is there anywhere I can check this, and what would be the outcome if other games did share the mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12851" LastActivityDate="2017-08-14T20:43:30.980" Title="Creating a TCG - Checking Mechanics" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2015-06-05T15:17:09.553" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; Though it's rare, some games mix up what it means to win and to lose, because why not? Games typically treat everyone as either 100% winner or 100% loser, but it doesn't have to be that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life, there are many situations where you don't &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; win or lose, and a lot of people are satisfied if they're able to maintain their situation. Some games mimic this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in Galaxy Trucker, rules are set out based on the story of the game. Since you're a simple trucker trying to make a living, you're a winner if you've made &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; money at all that game (though, as in real life, some people win more than others). If you're in debt then you've made a loss from the venture, so you're a loser. If you're on exactly 0 then you've managed to keep flying without winning or losing!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine has a game they're making with several different endings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the players can't keep the game's from reaching a lose condition, everyone loses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the players do &lt;em&gt;too well&lt;/em&gt; then the problem goes away without the higher ups noticing, so nobody loses but nobody wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the players hold off the lose condition for long enough, the higher ups notice and reward the best player. This player wins, but nobody loses!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some people may play with the main goal of simple victory, it can be quite refreshing when your victory, loss or otherwise is more interesting than just numerical competitiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T09:19:58.427" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T09:19:58.427" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24528" CreationDate="2015-06-05T16:16:18.803" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;What has been the evolution of games with a traitor/betrayal/defector element? I remember what seemed like decades ago mention of party games like Mafia, Assassin, and as I re-enter the tabletop arena, I see a number of games like Resistance, Werewolf, Battlestar Galactica, Dead of Winter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does someone have an interesting historical perspective on the evolution of these games and their mechanics starting from whenever they may have gained momentum, showed similar or copycat mechanics, started branching into different mutations of the mechanic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T03:44:08.680" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:44:08.680" Title="What has been the evolution or progression of traitor/betrayal/defector games?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-06-06T22:04:06.037" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11095" CreationDate="2015-06-05T17:20:16.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the game.  It is a 1976 board game called &quot;PALM BEACH&quot; A GAME.  The box is lime green, pink and white with black lettering. Looks like a Lilly Pulitzer print.  It looks as though it has never been played.  The money, cards and playing pieces are in pristine condition as is the board.  The game is complete and includes the instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12854" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T19:35:54.183" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:35:54.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24521" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24527" CreationDate="2015-06-05T18:07:56.223" Score="1" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to see why certain cards are banned in certain formats. It doesn't seem to make sense. The specific cards I'm looking for are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Memory%20Adept&quot;&gt;Jace, Memory Adept&lt;/a&gt; (ok, sort of makes sense)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daggerdrome%20Imp&quot;&gt;Daggerdrome Imp&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dimir%20Aqueduct&quot;&gt;Dimir Aqueduct&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Grind&quot;&gt;Mind Grind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pilfered%20Plans&quot;&gt;Pilfered Plans&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me where I can get these rulings at?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tappedout.net says that my deck is not standard legal because of these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12856" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2015-06-05T19:40:24.623" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:40:24.623" Title="Looking to see why cards are banned" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-06-05T20:26:28.833" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-05T18:15:33.850" Score="2" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;I became aware of Wings of War / Glory when someone mentioned it as an inspiration for the Xwing Miniatures game. I'm late to the party and would like to understand the differences between Wings of War and Wings of Glory, other than branding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, &lt;strong&gt;how do I get started with this game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good answer would include details like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you combine both games or are the rules / materials different?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you combine WWI and WWII versions of the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there an ideal box to start with?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are all the new products with miniatures or is there an option to play with just cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7765" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T19:00:10.383" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T19:00:10.383" Title="I'd like to get into Wings of War / Glory but am confused where to start" Tags="|wings-of-glory|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-05-23T20:10:34.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:13:02.983" Score="4" ViewCount="3622" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question in regards of using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Chain%20Veil&quot;&gt;The Chain Veil&lt;/a&gt;'s Activated Ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{4}, {T}: For each planeswalker you control, you may activate one of its loyalty abilities once this turn as though none of its loyalty abilities have been activated this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rings%20of%20Brighthearth&quot;&gt;Rings of Brighthearth&lt;/a&gt; copying ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you activate an ability, if it isn't a mana ability, you may pay {2}. If you do, copy that ability. You may choose new targets for the copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to use Chain's ability more than once in one turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12757" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T02:55:16.470" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T13:21:23.133" Title="Will Rings of Brighthearth + The Chain Veil let me use Chain Veil's ability more than once?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24524" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:36:16.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use Rings of Brighthearth's ability to copy The Chain Veil's ability, and yes, that will allow you to activate another additional loyalty ability of each Planeswalker you control. A ruling on The Chain Veil says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Each additional time The Chain Veil’s last ability resolves will allow you to activate a loyalty ability of each planeswalker you control an additional time.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, if you activate The Chain Veil’s last ability, untap it, then activate it again, you can activate a loyalty ability of a planeswalker you control three times that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:36:16.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24524" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:38:07.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The sequence would/could be as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate The Chain Veil, and put its ability on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ring's triggered ability triggers, and is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(after all players pass priority) The triggered ability resolves, you are given the choice to pay 2 and copy the ability, and the copy is placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(players pass priority) The copied effect resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(players pass priority) The original effect resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A ruling from &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The+Chain+Veil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt; confirms that The Chain Veil's ability can be repeated, i.e. each effect allows an additional loyalty ability to be played, on top of the single normal use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each additional time The Chain Veil’s last ability resolves will allow you to activate a loyalty ability of each planeswalker you control an additional time. For example, if you activate The Chain Veil’s last ability, untap it, then activate it again, you can activate a loyalty ability of a planeswalker you control three times that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2017-09-06T13:21:23.133" LastActivityDate="2017-09-06T13:21:23.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24521" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:39:35.953" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For format restrictions and banned lists, see the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/formats&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/formats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/bannedrestricted&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/bannedrestricted&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the cards you listed are on a banned list, they just aren't legal in &quot;Standard&quot;, which is a format that only includes cards printed in the last two years&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:39:35.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24519" CreationDate="2015-06-05T19:49:58.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These days Mafia is renowned as the worst game in the mafia genre.  The unifying element behind all of these is the hidden information about player allegiance.  It was an interesting mechanic in mafia, but the issue with mafia was that it had player elimination, so players spent a statistical third of the game sitting around doing nothing.  Another issue with mafia is that it was really only good with large numbers of players.  Board game designers being who they are adapted the hidden team mechanic to create better behaved versions of mafia, or include mafia like elements in various games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games like Resistance, Avalon, One Night Werewolf, Two Rooms and a Boom, etc. are all trying to address the fundamental problem that mafia had a great concept with a rather poor implementation of it.  (Werewolf proper is just a mafia reskin.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games like Battlestar the Boardgame and Shadows over Camelot are trying to include this in a set of broader mechanics to have the game have more intrigue than just a fully cooperative game (such as Pandemic) or a many vs. one game (such as Descent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T19:49:58.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24517" CreationDate="2015-06-05T20:24:11.003" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Note: I Am Not A Lawyer, this is mostly just accumulated internet knowledge, and may be inaccurate.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card game mechanics are patentable. This means your mechanics could be already be patented by another company.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A patent protects a unique invention or process. It protects it by preventing someone else from duplicating your invention/process for a period of time (typically 20 years).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, Richard Garfield patented tapping. The patent, by my reading, runs out on June 22 of this year (2014). Wizards went back and tacked on some other parts to that same patent, which you can read here. The patent covers just about everything you could imagine in a TCG. It covers building decks, casting spells, the process of trading with others and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wizards is saying that Hex violates a lot of its patents. Hex probably does. Here’s the problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those patent claims are beatable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, they might be too abstract. They might be too broad. Having a patent does not guarantee that it will be valid in the face of someone challenging it. And importantly, if they run out when I think they will, Hex/Crypto can limit the damages they pay out to only the infringing time. After that, Hex isn’t infringing on any sort of patents held by Wizards. They’re probably still infringing on all the patents that early adopters lined up on the internet regarding downloads, backups, dropboxes and other horror stories. Litigating patents takes an incredible amount of money, especially when you’re trying to get it declared invalid one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.quietspeculation.com/2014/05/understanding-the-wizards-v-hex-lawsuit-in-plain-english/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While your game is in development/playtesting, this is not a big deal, as you're not charging money, and so the worst you could expect would be to be told to stop.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once that &lt;em&gt;changes&lt;/em&gt; and you're actually trying to charge for this stuff, you should seek actual professional paid-for advice. Apart from anything else, you should consult a lawyer about starting a company to control the game, so that in the event of lawsuits or contracts, only the assets of the company will be liable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*: Warning: I may be completely wrong about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-05T20:24:11.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24530" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-06T00:18:20.560" Score="7" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently started playing Go and I would like to study some annotated 9x9 games, but can't seem to find anything. Does anyone know where I could find such games? If it's free that would be even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user12860" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-06-06T00:39:20.513" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:18:05.463" Title="Annotated 9x9 Go Games" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24533" CreationDate="2015-06-06T07:49:52.907" Score="0" ViewCount="1479" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Growing Madness rumor says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the lead investigator gains a madness condition then discards 1&#xA;  eldritch token from this card for each madness condition he has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would have expected the card to simply say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the lead investigator gains a madness condition. Then, discard 1 eldritch token from this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording makes it seem like there are situations where one might have to discard more than 1 token. Is this possible considering the  quick reference says, under Conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator cannot have multiple copies of the same condition. If he would gain a condition he already has a copy of, he does not gain another copy of that condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T17:44:45.023" Title="Can an investigator ever have more than 1 of a kind of condition" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24531" CreationDate="2015-06-06T17:44:45.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jefromi has pointed out that there is more than one Madness condition, such as Paranoia, Amnesia, and Hallucinations. Consequently, an investigator can have more than one madness condition, as long as they are not the same. I hadn't realized madness was a category of condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-06T17:44:45.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24545" CreationDate="2015-06-06T22:21:37.460" Score="3" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, we played the Mansions of Madness core scenario, &lt;strong&gt;The Inner Sanctum&lt;/strong&gt; I can't remember the exact options that I selected, but the final objective was &lt;strong&gt;1C&lt;/strong&gt;, where the investigators we're being lured into the mansion to be fed to the monsters and Mary, the person we are attempting to find, was being held in the ceremony room. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the final clue was placed in the ceremony room, the room that has &lt;strong&gt;two&lt;/strong&gt; sealed door markers on it and no other entrances that I could see. This room also has a lock card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how are the investigators supposed to interact with the lock card if they can't even attempt to move into the room due to the sealed doors? I double and triple checked the setup of the cards and I couldn't find anything that had been set up incorrectly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T11:05:56.310" Title="The Inner Sanctum Sealed Door and Objective 1C" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24538" CreationDate="2015-06-07T08:58:59.650" Score="6" ViewCount="4017" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are players compelled to use the power of a card, or can they choose to not use it (and simply discard it)? For instance, can I choose to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not have anyone discard after playing the Prince&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not to compare my card to another player after playing the Baron&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not to trade hands with anyone using the King?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those three are the cases where I could see a distinct advantage to being allowed to not use the power. Other cases that are more questionable when it comes to assisting the player are whether one can choose to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not look at anyone's card with the Priest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;not use the Handmaid's protective power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T14:04:14.243" Title="In Love Letter, can you discard a card instead of playing it?" Tags="|love-letter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24536" CreationDate="2015-06-07T15:05:07.290" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you must always apply the effect of the card even if that card would hurt you, such as playing the prince with the princess in hand when the other 2 players have handmaidens out. Always having to play the effect of the card is spelled out in the rule book and making a house variant to change that would greatly alter the balance of the game as it would remove the negative side of some of the more powerful cards in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point of this is that there will be times when playing a card can be very bad for you and that is to balance out the fact that playing a card can be very good for you or at worst neutral most of the time&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/tempest/files/2012/09/Love_Letter_Rules_Final.pdf&quot;&gt;Love Letter PDF Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On your turn, draw the top card&#xA;  from the deck and add it to your&#xA;  hand. Then choose one of the two&#xA;  cards in your hand and discard it&#xA;  face up in front of you. Apply any&#xA;  effect on the card you discarded.&#xA;  You must apply its effect, even if it&#xA;  is bad for you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are no valid targets because all other players have a handmaiden in play you can still use the card and in most cases nothing will happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guard - Nothing happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Priest - Nothing happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Barron - Nothing happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Handmaiden - Does not target others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prince- You must target yourself and discard your other card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King - Nothing happens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Countess - Does not target others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Princess - Does not target others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-06-07T21:21:11.873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-07T21:21:11.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24552" CreationDate="2015-06-07T19:32:00.270" Score="2" ViewCount="138" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;em&gt;special&lt;/em&gt; I mean ship parts which you get as a reward, not the ones you have researched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what do you do to the &lt;em&gt;special&lt;/em&gt; ship parts when you remove them (to make space for other ones)? Do you remove them from the game or do you keep them for re-installation later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12873" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:40:40.600" Title="Can you remove a special ship part and keep it for later?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18534" CreationDate="2015-06-08T03:38:17.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can upload your deck list to websites such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://deckstats.net/upload-deck/en/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;DeckStats.net&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://deckbox.org/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deckbox.org&lt;/a&gt; and the deck's legality will be displayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On DeckStats.net:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/VW1zY.png&quot; alt=&quot;DeckStats legality display&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On Deckbox.org:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RNcsY.png&quot; alt=&quot;Deckbox legality display&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3467" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T03:38:17.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18177" CreationDate="2015-06-08T06:06:17.347" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The iOS version of Pandemic is an excellent solo game. The basic version plays identically to the standard 2013 board game, I believe: you play each of the four investigators in turn, each being able see everyone's cards. There's an in-app purchase to get the option of playing with the On The Brink expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some ways it's a bit smoother to play than the physical board game edition: setup is automatic, the interface is well designed, you can see the number of cards/cubes left at a glance, unavailable actions are greyed out, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12876" LastEditorUserId="12876" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T02:39:14.980" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T02:39:14.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24496" CreationDate="2015-06-08T09:56:51.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;4 Ideas we Use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make 2 or 3 Stack of Pointcards and Mix the Pointcards, so every Stack. is random. So you are forced to wait or buy bad cards And more buying Options can be very valuable. Play it until one (or two) Stacks are empty. Use the Normal Number of Pointcards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use more Cards :D&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use Aggressive Cards which make people throw cards away or polute there decks with useless cards&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A rule until you are not allowed to buy provinces. (One Stack of the Actioncards has to be empty, the Provinces are under some Mansion Cards(don't know the English Word), or a random Pointcard Staple (like in Suggest 1) has to be Empty) to buy Provinces. Be creative ;-).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12452" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T09:56:51.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24535" CreationDate="2015-06-08T11:05:56.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you must have had either the Furnace or Ceremony rooms in the wrong orientation, because there's a connecting door from the Basement to the Furnace Room to the Ceremony Room, via the 'top' of the Ceremony room tile. From the Investigator Guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/S7Rce.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Map Setup from the Investigator Guide&quot;&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T11:05:56.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24547" CreationDate="2015-06-08T11:35:40.150" Score="4" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Saint Petersburg, if you own a warehouse you can hold an extra card in hand.  What happens if you have four cards in hand and then upgrade the warehouse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you keep the fourth card, but can't take another fourth in hand&#xA;after you've played it? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you discard one? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you just not allowed to do the upgrade?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastEditorUserId="2040" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T10:03:27.410" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T10:03:27.410" Title="Saint Petersburg: What happens when you upgrade a full warehouse?" Tags="|saint-petersburg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24546" CreationDate="2015-06-08T12:15:40.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with your first option, &lt;strong&gt;you keep the extra card but your hand limit goes back to normal&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=150&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt; in the &lt;strong&gt;special cards&lt;/strong&gt; description (which I think isn't part of the main rules book but is an extra rules reminder sheet):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player can have up to &lt;strong&gt;4 cards in his hand&lt;/strong&gt;. If the player upgrades the warehouse, he need not immediately reduce his hand to 3 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T12:15:40.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18534" CreationDate="2015-06-08T13:49:51.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18534/how-should-i-determine-whether-a-deck-is-legal-in-a-particular-format/24542#24542&quot;&gt;Fueled's answer&lt;/a&gt;, you can also upload your decklist to &lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tappedout.net&lt;/a&gt;, which will display the legality like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7X7Zg.png&quot; alt=&quot;TappedOut legality&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I added this as a separate answer instead of a comment since I don't (yet) have sufficient reputation to comment; I realise this is a rather brief answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T13:49:51.617" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-08T14:04:19.543" Score="3" ViewCount="6418" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing Cribbage with a new acquaintance, I led the 9H he played 6D for 15-2 I followed with the 10H for 25, Pone called GO. I then played the 2H and 2D for 29, then called Go.   I then counted two for the pair of 2s and one for go.   He argued that after a pair or sequence to end the play you could not count the one for go.  Is there such a rule that I may have missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12424" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-06-08T14:32:58.083" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:06:37.037" Title="Do you still score a Go if you end with a pair or sequence?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24549" CreationDate="2015-06-08T14:34:26.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent is incorrect.  You would score the go as well as the pair, just as you did.  Its hard to prove a negative with a rules quote, so I'd say the burden is on your opponent to show anything in the rules that supports his interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T14:34:26.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24549" CreationDate="2015-06-08T15:24:48.557" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get one point because he called &quot;Go&quot;, not because you played the last card(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/cribbage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/cribbage&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player cannot add another card without exceeding 31, he or she&#xA;  says &quot;Go&quot; and the opponent pegs 1. After gaining the Go, the opponent&#xA;  must first lay down any additional cards he can without exceeding 31.&#xA;  Besides the point for Go, he may then score any additional points that&#xA;  can be made through pairs and runs (described later). If a player&#xA;  reaches exactly 31, he pegs two instead of one for Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-06-09T22:06:37.037" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T22:06:37.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24540" CreationDate="2015-06-08T15:40:40.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 7 of the official rulebook states in relation to &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ancient Ship Parts&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (which are the special type of parts you are referring to):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you may place this part in any of your Ships (returning an exist­ing part &#xA;  if needed); you may also keep the part next to your&#xA;  board and place it later with the Upgrade action; if you later want to&#xA;  replace an Ancient Ship Part, it is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question they are discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: [&lt;a href=&quot;https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5496950/Eclipse-rules/Eclipse_rules_EN_compr.pdf&quot;&gt;Official English Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11929" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T15:40:40.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24078" CreationDate="2015-06-08T20:57:58.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is because Liverpudlians, especially back in the 60s, were stereotypically a bit cheeky (as in, untrustworthy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John is saying that it's the usual Liverpool way of shuffling so as not to shuffle at all, and likely the cards will be stacked in Ringo's favour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12573" LastActivityDate="2015-06-08T20:57:58.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24555" CreationDate="2015-06-09T11:51:57.667" Score="0" ViewCount="688" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Captain%20Sisay&quot;&gt;Captain Sisay&lt;/a&gt; search for a card that is only legendary when it is flipped? ex. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bushi%20Tenderfoot&quot;&gt;Bushi Tenderfoot&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T12:07:04.103" Title="Captain Sisay and flip legendarys from Kamigawa?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-09T19:52:05.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24554" CreationDate="2015-06-09T12:07:04.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Captain Sisay can't find cards that are only legendary when flipped&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;709.2. In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield before the permanent flips, a flip card has only the normal characteristics of the card. Once a permanent is flipped, its normal name, text box, type line, power, and toughness don’t apply and the alternative versions of those characteristics apply instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: Akki Lavarunner is a nonlegendary creature that flips into a legendary creature named Tok-Tok, Volcano Born. An effect that says “Search your library for a legendary card” can’t find this flip card. An effect that says “Legendary creatures get +2/+2” doesn’t affect Akki Lavarunner, but it does affect Tok-Tok.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T12:07:04.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24557" CreationDate="2015-06-09T13:30:00.027" Score="2" ViewCount="247" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I make my own chapter, lets just call them Flat Black, and they are all painted flat black, can I also include a hero from the Ultra Marines, painted blue, such as Magnus? Or a librarian that is painted in the blue UM colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it be legal if I followed the UM codex for my &quot;Flat Black&quot; chapter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12887" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:23:42.633" Title="Warhammer 40k Unit Composition - Marines" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24556" CreationDate="2015-06-09T14:23:42.633" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, its perfectly fine to play your custom chapter as ultramarines. The fluff says that most chapters follow their example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using special characters, yes you can use them in a non-space marine army. An FAQ in White Dwarf answered a similar question for blood angels:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Can I use Commander Dante [commander of the Blood Angels chapter] as my Flesh Tearers chapter leader?&#xA;A: Yes, but keep in mind that he is the Blood Angels chapter leader, not the Flesh Tearers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T14:23:42.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24559" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24573" CreationDate="2015-06-09T17:09:51.633" Score="2" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much more complexity in terms of additional rules, things to remember, do either of the expansions (Mountains of Madness, Forsaken Lore) add to the base game. I don't really consider new cards, characters, or ancient ones necessarily adding complexity unless the details within them add a twist to how we think of the base game flow. Answers could simply be a percentage number, or go into detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd also like to know how much longer the game takes with either or both of the expansions. Right now, I play a 2-player 2-character (1 for each player) game in about 1.5-2 hours (maybe 20 minutes of that is setup and tear down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:09:18.630" Title="In Eldritch Horror, how much complexity and extra playing time do expansions add?" Tags="|expansions|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24561" CreationDate="2015-06-09T17:25:01.380" Score="6" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the definitions from their rulebook located here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot;&gt;Smash Up Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discard&lt;/strong&gt;: When a card gets discarded, it goes to the discard pile of the player whose deck it came from, no matter who played or controlled it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Destroy&lt;/strong&gt;: When a card&#xA;  says to destroy another card, put the destroyed card in its&#xA;  owner’s discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can destroy one of my minions to draw the same number of cards as its power, would I be able to destroy one from my hand? I'm thinking no, but would like to appeal to others who may have broader experience with other games that might use this terminology commonly or might simply know a ruling on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T10:42:34.163" Title="In Smash Up, can you &quot;destroy&quot; a card from your hand?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24560" CreationDate="2015-06-09T18:13:02.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if this is explicitly mentioned anywhere in the rules, but destroying a minion refers to destroying a minion card on a base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is akin to Magic: The Gathering, which has concepts of discarding cards from one's hand and destroying permanents on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T18:13:02.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24560" CreationDate="2015-06-09T19:36:34.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Smash Up, you can only destroy cards that have explicitly been played. Anything in your hand is currently out of play, likewise, to remove anything from your hand would require the keyword &quot;discard&quot; and not &quot;destroy&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T19:36:34.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24559" CreationDate="2015-06-09T19:40:44.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Forsaken Lore expansion and haven't yet seen that it increases playtime, but it may increase difficulty (much in the same way that playing against Cthulhu in the base game is a little more challenging than say, any of the other Ancients). I have played the Forsaken Lore expansion now a couple of times and it's just as lengthy as the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T19:40:44.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23916" CreationDate="2015-06-09T19:58:50.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Voting to have the group spend food (when they don't have the food to spend) thematically won't work. In this case, I'd discard the Crossroads card and move on because it couldn't take effect fully (much like other Crossroads cards...I've drawn many cards that couldn't fully take effect because none of the conditions were met). Considering that there's a condition, or an implication of owning five food, this card can't be used. Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T19:58:50.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2015-06-09T20:19:53.290" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that stacking the deck in your favor to have the best possible outcome is in some sense, and I'm using this word ever-so-gently here, cheating. I think the fun part of the struggle is knowing that each season brings a mystery depending on the cards I have in my hand at any given time. Putting your cards in your hand so that you have an advantage against the flow of the game isn't fair to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:19:53.290" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13531" CreationDate="2015-06-09T20:37:28.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider even looking at the Saga Expansions. They condense the thematic elements of the novels, telling the story in a more condensed version versus spreading it apart across a bunch of adventure packs. The additional benefit here is that the Saga Expansions do not require adventure packs much like the deluxe expansions do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And...as they come available, you could outfit your collection with reprints of older adventure packs and deluxe expansions as you see fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12891" LastActivityDate="2015-06-09T20:37:28.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2015-06-10T06:15:30.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have played a 2 player variant we designed. I will try to describe it as succinctly as I can, and if there is interest, am happy to expand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Broadly, the idea is for each player to alternate controlling a 3rd player (P3). If P3 wins, the game is a draw.  Most aspects of alternating control of P3 are common sense and can be varied, but there is a key trading dynamic where a player may only trade with P3 by offering N cards of his own and selecting ONE random card from P3 where N equals the Nth time he is trading with P3 this turn. For example, first he trades one for a random card, then can opt to trade two for a random card, then can opt to trade 3 for a random card, etc.  The only exception to this rule is when it is P3's turn and the player controlling P3 is opting to trade with the opponent (in which case trades are done normally).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this does is enable both players to take turns using P3 to not only interfere with their opponent and assist their own development, but more crucially develop a third player that typically sits in a tenuous balance of power with the human players. At any moment, one player usually can dump their cards onto P3 and ensure P3 moves at 1.5 to 2x the speed toward victory. If one player pulls too far ahead of their opponent, that opponent can put all his resources into forcing P3 to win and induce the draw. If both players remain in an apparent neck-and-neck race, then one may pull ahead suddenly and win, but he must convince the opponent that he is not too far in the lead or the opponent will force a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's almost like playing a chess game where it's fair to stand up and flip the table upside down and call a draw, as long as the other player cannot checkmate in 3 moves. Almost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T06:15:30.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24575" CreationDate="2015-06-10T06:22:59.863" Score="3" ViewCount="858" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fairy Circle from Pretty Pretty Smash Up says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the first time you play a minion here each turn, you may play an extra minion here or play an extra action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to play that minion &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; or can I just queue it up as &quot;I can play another minion but I'll do a bunch of other things first?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would imagine the ruling on this to be in line with whatever ruling would apply to things you can do as a function of abilities on action and minion cards as well, i.e. any cards that say to play extra minions/actions, or other consequences for that matter. Do these have to take effect before any other actions are taken, or do they get to be queued up and their order of execution selected as desired?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T13:14:47.653" Title="In Smash Up, do I have to execute an effect when a card is played or can I choose to do it later in the turn?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24574" CreationDate="2015-06-10T06:49:44.893" Score="2" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use the &lt;strong&gt;Valyrian Steel Blade&lt;/strong&gt; to add +1 strength on my unit which is &lt;strong&gt;supporting&lt;/strong&gt; other player during his battle?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6405" LastEditorUserId="7151" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T12:40:19.987" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T14:32:55.220" Title="Using blade on supporting unit in A Game Of Thrones" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2015-06-10T06:50:39.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect is resolved immediately.  But in this case, the effect is to add 1 to the total number of minions that can be played. And you can play actions and minions in any order you like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you don't have to play the minion immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T06:50:39.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6104" CreationDate="2015-06-10T11:05:03.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a 2 player variant for Seafarers that I once found &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/442180/2-player-variant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. The starting island is basic and small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qks2B.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;starting island&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This 2 player variant doesn't solve the slow-the-leader problem, instead this is overshadowed by the luck of the draw Discovery mechanic from Seafarers. If you like that sort of play, this might be your variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Set up&lt;/strong&gt;: Players receive 2 sets of pieces (30 roads, 30 ships, 8 cities and 10 settlements). Use starting island shown. Each player places 2 settlements and 2 ships/roads and receives one of each of the 4 resources (wood, sheep, grain, and clay).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Playing the Game&lt;/strong&gt;: Play is the same as in the standard settlers/seafarers with players alternating turns. Victory conditions are 20 victory points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discovery&lt;/strong&gt;: All of the area outside of the starting island is unknown. As player build ships (and later roads, too) along edges toward an intersection where the hex tile is missing, a new tile is randomly drawn from all of the remaining tiles and placed on the board. If it is a land hex, a number chit is randomly drawn and the player receives one of that resource. If it is a port hex, the player must rotate the port so that it touches land. If no land is present, then place the port tile and if a land tile is subsequently drawn, the port is rotated so that it touches the land and then it is fixed for the remainder of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Special Victory points&lt;/strong&gt;: Players receive one addition victory point for their first settlement on each new island they colonize (regardless if the other player has already colonized it). Place a seafarers VP chit under the settlement to delineate it. As long as it is not connected by land to any other island the player has already colonized, the victory point is granted--even if later the island is connected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Robber and Pirate&lt;/strong&gt;: The robber enters the game once the first desert hex is drawn (place on desert). The pirate enters the game once the first port hex is drawn (place on port). If a &quot;seven&quot; is rolled before the either the Robber or Pirate enters the game, only the 7-card hand size rule is enforced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T11:05:03.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24559" CreationDate="2015-06-10T11:40:30.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of complexity, it doesn't add much.  It all depends on your GOO (Great Old One), in fact, to determine what rules you're playing with in the end.  And the additional rules don't make the game harder or more complex.  They actually give the players other avenues to solving mysteries.  Plus, setting up or tearing down the expansions doesn't add that much more time, maybe 5 to 10 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of time.  If you ignore the set-up and tear-down of the game and only focus on how long it takes to play, you don't need to worry about it taking significantly more or less time.  The amount of time to play the game is baked into a few things: your Mythos deck and the GOO you pick.  Each GOO has a doom track which serves as the amount of time you get to play before they wake up and cause the fourth mystery and access their win condition (or just outright win, in the case of Azathoth).  The Mythos deck controls this by opening gates and moving the Omen.  Players can construct a Mythos deck if they want to make it easier or harder, which allows you to alter and have control of the flow of the game.  But you still need enough cards to satisfy what the GOO's card tells you for the deck.  And, effectively, your Mythos deck is a hard time limit.  When you're forced to draw from the Mythos deck and you can't, you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T18:09:18.630" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T18:09:18.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24570" CreationDate="2015-06-10T12:45:47.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is clearly stated on page 20 of the rulebook. (For reference the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/30/4f/304f72e3-4fe4-4f91-bfbe-75133161b092/va65_agot2_rulebook_web.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/c0/fc/c0fcd94d-ad0e-4ac0-947e-b258356fabfd/va65_agot2_faq_v1_4.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On p. 20 it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If either the attacker or the defender holds the Valyrian Steel Blade token, that player now has the option of using its ability to provide +1 to his total Combat Strength. If used, flip the token to its faded side, as a reminder that it cannot be used again this round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no, a supporting player is neither the attacker or defender and so cannot use the Valyrian Steel Blade in that combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="7151" LastEditDate="2015-06-10T14:32:55.220" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T14:32:55.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24569" CreationDate="2015-06-10T13:14:47.653" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect resolves on the spot, giving you a &lt;em&gt;floating&lt;/em&gt; extra play. However, if it's not your main play phase (i.e. specials during scoring) you must use the extra play immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the most recent rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pretty Pretty Smash Up&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Extra:&lt;/strong&gt; An extra minion or action is one you can play in addition to the normal quota of one of that type per turn. Extra cards are optional, and you don’t have to play the extra card right away, unless the extra card was gained by a Special ability or outside the Play Cards phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is explicitly different during scoring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you get to play extra minions or actions while a base is being scored, you must play those extra cards immediately or not at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-10T13:14:47.653" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24687" CreationDate="2015-06-10T13:19:34.707" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, Robin has the card text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While Batman is active, each of your Robin dice gets...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this apply when my opponent fields a Batman die, or only when I do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5610" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:08:26.660" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:08:26.660" Title="In Dice Masters, does an opponent's active character trigger your effects?" Tags="|dice-masters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24585" CreationDate="2015-06-10T17:21:19.013" Score="0" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Doomtown Reloaded&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/doomtown/2014/04/14/grifting-consistency/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grifters&lt;/a&gt; are characters who allow you to look at your starting hand and, if you don't like them, boot them. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/01049&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Travis Moone&lt;/a&gt; allow you to boot him and then redraw your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I played a game where both of us had Grifters and it was important to know whose Grifter went first. Basically, my opponent was on the fence about using his Grifter and wanted to know if my Grifter was going to start the first round booted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Grifters activate after the initial hand draw but before the first lowball round, we didn't have an established way to decide whose Grifter went first. So whose Grifter goes first? Or do you just count to three and decide simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T19:44:26.703" Title="Whose Grifter goes first?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24580" CreationDate="2015-06-11T01:08:31.793" Score="4" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember playing a card game I'd like to find and buy, but I don't remember the exact name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a game which we played with its own special-design deck. The cards have numbers going up to a bit above 100 (maybe 111?) and points represented by a few auerochs heads. A few special cards have unusually many auerochs heads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the exact rules, but I know that there are three piles laid on the table. The players have to discard cards from their hand onto the piles, with the number of the card played (and maybe also the pile size?) Constraining the cards which can be played, determining on which pile the card must land, and also whether a player has to take a pile as a kind of trick. At the end, the player with the fewest auerochs in his tricks wins. I think there might have been drawing of cards from a face down pile too, but not sure about that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember it as a very dynamic game with simple rules and little wiggle room (once you choose a card to play, many events follow automatically) but at the same time lots of fun. There is no obvious winning strategy, and the ranking can change up to the very end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't say if the game absolutely required the special deck, or If it could have been a modern redesign of a traditional 104 + some jokers card game, but it looked more like an independent design (no obvious relation to sous or traditional card values). It was in German, I can't say if originally produced in Germany. Search for additions card games only returns references to magic cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody help me identify it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12900" LastEditorUserId="12900" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T01:21:27.943" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T14:02:11.583" Title="Looking for a card game about auerochs" Tags="|identify-this-game|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24032" CreationDate="2015-06-11T06:30:10.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would be if you have you base placed in the edge of the board surrounded by your tiles and you want to prevent enemy from gaining access to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6405" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T06:30:10.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24578" CreationDate="2015-06-11T08:41:10.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're talking about one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/153/take-5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Take 5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 Nimmt!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/63706/11-nimmt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;11 Nimmt!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Category 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hornochsen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All are variations on the same theme, so take your pick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T14:02:11.583" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T14:02:11.583" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24581" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24582" CreationDate="2015-06-11T12:37:07.923" Score="9" ViewCount="28258" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say in checkers, I somehow manage to get seven pieces crowned. I only have twelve chips, but I would need fourteen chips to crown seven kings. What do I do? What if the opponent doesn't have enough non-playable chips to give me either?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12901" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T13:42:25.340" LastActivityDate="2018-10-13T19:26:26.483" Title="Can I still crown a king if I run out of pieces?" Tags="|checkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24581" CreationDate="2015-06-11T13:31:04.730" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Warning: Clicking on the rulebook link below will download a Word document.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.usacheckers.com/downloads/WCDF_Revised_Rules.doc&quot;&gt;American Checkers Federation's official rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1.16  When a man reaches the farthest row forward (known as the “king-row” or “crown-head”) it becomes a king, and this completes the turn of play. The man can be crowned by either player ( ) by placing a man of the same colour on top of it before the next move is made. (&lt;strong&gt;It may be necessary to borrow from another set if no captured man is available for the purpose&lt;/strong&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the rules say, if you run out of pieces, you can just borrow from another set. You are not limited by the number of pieces in your set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing casually with friends, you can crown a king using coins, dice, torn pieces of paper, etc. As long as the board state is clear to you and your friends, it doesn't really matter how you crown your kings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T13:31:04.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24583" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-11T14:11:40.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The island of Catan is made of hexagonal tiles which produce specific resources needed during the game. Three or four players (up to 6 with the extension) build settlements and roads on the corners of these tiles to gather the resources. Eventually, they each build a little empire, upgrading settlements to cities, buying development cards, and playing soldiers to fend off the marauding robber. The first one to reach 10 victory points wins. Playtime is usually 90-120 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting resources is dependent on the placement of one's settlements and the roll of the dice, so it is often necessary to trade with other players (or the &quot;old world&quot; at predetermined ratios) in order to obtain the desired advancements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are four expansions for the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/seafarers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;seafarers-of-catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;seafarers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt; adds ships and the possibility more complex board layouts including multiple islands.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-cities-and-knights&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan-cities-and-knights&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-cities-and-knights&lt;/a&gt; expands trade, adds secondary resources, reworks the development deck into 3 different progress areas, introduces barbarians that launch assaults on all of Catan and the knights used to defend against them. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-traders-barbarians&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan-traders-barbarians&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-traders-barbarians&lt;/a&gt; expands the barbarians mechanic and further expands trade.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-explorers-pirates&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan-explorers-pirates&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-explorers-pirates&lt;/a&gt; adds the concept of additional islands.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there are extensions for the base game and the expansions to support up to 6 players.&#xA;There are also a number of spin-offs:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/starfarers-of-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;starfarers-of-catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;starfarers-of-catan&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/starship-catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;starship-catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;starship-catan&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan-card-game&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan-card-game&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan-card-game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally released in Germany in 1995 as &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; and rebranded as &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; in 2015, the game is immensely popular and is many people's first introduction to &quot;designer&quot; board games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For answering questions the official rules are found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T17:43:10.787" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T17:43:10.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24584" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-11T14:11:40.027" Score="0" Body="Three or four players (up to 6 with the extension) play against each other to create the most prestigious settlement on the island of Catan, rolling dice to collect resources to build roads, towns, cities and other advancements. (90-120 minute playtime)" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T14:11:40.027" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T14:11:40.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24585" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24577" CreationDate="2015-06-11T17:36:36.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/doomtown/files/2014/11/Doomtown-Floor-Rules-Effective-23-nov.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;November 2014 tournament floor rules&lt;/a&gt; answers this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before the first turn of the game if there are effects/reacts that&#xA;  could be conflicting before a winner has been determined by lowball&#xA;  (E.G. Grifter abilities), use the following procedure: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All players make a choice as to whether they are going to use or pass on the grifter ability. Each player then holds their hand out&#xA;  with a concealed token in there, with an agreed colour code, red for&#xA;  use and blue for no use. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a player fails to hold out a token of either colour then they pass the use of the grifter. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players open their hands at the same time and use the ability or not as indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In friendly games, we usually don't worry about this, and even in tournaments in my experience it is resolved without resorting to this 90% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T19:44:26.703" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T19:44:26.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21410" CreationDate="2015-06-11T18:15:51.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always played the leader can choose whatever team they want with themselves on it or not their choice. Sometimes people get convinced, or bullied not to put themselves on it because of the results of the previous round, or because everyone threatens to vote their team down if they are on it, but ultimately I think it should be up to the leader. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T18:15:51.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14806" CreationDate="2015-06-11T18:22:16.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;One strategy I've used is to have Merlin come out as Percival. This can be tricky if the evil team knows about this ploy, Percival isn't on the same page as Merlin, or if someone evil contests the claim (Then there is usually A LOT of yelling in my experience). But otherwise it gives the loyal servants a guaranteed good person to put on all their teams, gives Percival a signal to act as suspicious as possible with cues from Merlin on who to accuse. And if Merlin plays it right usually they are considered to be Percival and are out of the running for consideration as Merlin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can backfire if someone else claims to be Percival, and especially when playing with Morgana because then Percival doesn't know who to back up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:06:00.720" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:06:00.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21425" CreationDate="2015-06-11T18:34:33.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always played that the evil team can discuss all they want, but ultimately the decision is up to assassin. I didn't realize it was a rule not to reveal character cards so we usually had the entire evil team reveal themselves and actually use that to try and logically figure out who Merlin was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if someone wasn't suspicious of the person who was Mordred till the very end, but immediately was accusing the other evil people this would obviously be valuable information you wouldn't necessarily know about unless Mordred also revealed who they were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Usually the good players sit silently while the entire evil team discusses and so far this has worked really well for us. Sometimes discussion is helpful and sometimes it steers the assassin away from the right choice, but I find it just makes things more interesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as soon as the assassin is reveal the rule is they must say &quot;I choose to assassinate ________&quot; to make their final decision so there's no confusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T18:34:33.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24593" CreationDate="2015-06-11T22:10:10.760" Score="1" ViewCount="763" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules imply to me that one robot can push a line of robots away. Does anyone know of clarifications or have another reading of it? What I mean is the situation where A robot on cell 1A pushes toward a robot on cell 1B and there are more robots occupying 1C, 1D, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pushing Other Robots:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  When robots collide, one will push the other. Robots can be pushed anywhere on the board (or off the side!), even into a pit or onto a conveyor belt. A robot can’t be pushed through a wall, though, so the movement of a pushing robot will simply stop if the pushed robot runs into a wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T23:01:51.493" Title="In Robo Rally, can any number of robots be pushed?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24591" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-11T22:16:16.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Advanced Squad Leader (ASL) is a war simulation game on the tactical level for two or more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T22:45:26.820" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:45:26.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24592" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-11T22:16:16.290" Score="0" Body="A war simulation game on the tactical level." OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-06-11T22:45:19.247" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T22:45:19.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24590" CreationDate="2015-06-11T23:01:51.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They had the same discussion on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/72097/pushing-question&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;bgg&lt;/a&gt;. Yes you can push multiple robots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-06-11T23:01:51.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23059" CreationDate="2015-06-11T23:17:14.687" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm playing incorrectly, but I always played that both Oberon and Morgana are evil. Morgana appears as Merlin, and Oberon knows who all the other evil people are but they don't know who he/she is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the reveal phase :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) All the evil team would open their eyes put their thumbs out and see each other EXCEPT OBERON (So this could possibly be the Assassin, Morgana, Mordred and any other minions). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The evil people would all put their thumbs up and Oberon would open their eyes and have a chance to see who their team is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) All the evil people INCLUDING OBERON would put their thumbs up EXCEPT MORDRED and Merlin would have his chance to see. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Then Percival would see Morgana and Merlin with their thumbs up not knowing which was which. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was under the impression Oberon was evil, but the rest of the evil team didn't know who they were. This may not be the correct way but it has worked for us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as for revealing characters at the end of the game I guess it is technically wrong, but we've always had all the evil people reveal their characters at the end (including Oberon) then the evil team discusses who they think is Merlin, but the Assassin gets the final say. Usually knowing who Mordred was gives a lot of clues, because Merlin may not have accused them right away. We've found the discussion doesn't give evil too much of an advantage and is fun. So we always have reveal evil their characters, then the entire evil team discusses, and at the end the Assassin just has to say &quot;I assassinate ______&quot; to make their choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="12903" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T21:11:11.923" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T21:11:11.923" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24595" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:01:53.477" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cheaty Mages!&lt;/em&gt; is a card game about wizards betting on monsters fighting in an arena. The English edition was first published in 2008 by Kanai Factory and was rereleased in 2013 by Alderac Entertainment Group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T01:07:40.340" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T01:07:40.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24596" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:01:53.477" Score="0" Body="A card game about wizards betting on monsters fighting in an arena." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T01:08:53.790" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T01:08:53.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24597" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:15:50.460" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cardfight!! Vanguard&lt;/em&gt; (ヴァンガード) is a Japanese collectible card game in which players attempt to destroy the other player's vanguard. It was released in 2011 by Bushiroad Inc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T01:08:14.517" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T01:08:14.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24598" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:15:50.460" Score="0" Body="A Japanese collectible card game in which players attempt to destroy the other player's vanguard." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T01:08:01.357" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T01:08:01.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24599" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:46:26.137" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hare &amp;amp; Tortoise&lt;/em&gt; (originally published in Germany as &lt;em&gt;Hase und Igel&lt;/em&gt;) is a racing game where players compete to finish a race with just the right amount of carrots. The first English language version was published in 1973 by Intellect Games. It was the first winner of the Spiel des Jahres award in 1979.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T03:44:12.603" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:44:12.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24600" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:46:26.137" Score="0" Body="A racing game where players compete to finish a race with just the right amount of carrots." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T03:44:24.837" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:44:24.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24601" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:49:11.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dungeon Petz&lt;/em&gt; is a worker placement game where players compete to make the most profit by breeding and selling monsters. It was first published in 2011 by Czech Games Edition and Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T03:44:16.743" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:44:16.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24602" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:49:11.900" Score="0" Body="A worker placement game where players compete to make the most profit by breeding and selling monsters." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T03:44:21.903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:44:21.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24603" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:53:13.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nanuk&lt;/em&gt; is a card game where players are hunters boasting of their hunting prowess, with the biggest boaster being sent on a hunt. It was first published in 2011 by Steve Jackson Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T03:43:56.567" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T03:43:56.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24604" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-12T00:53:13.660" Score="0" Body="A card game about eskimo hunters, with the biggest boaster being sent on a hunt." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:40:04.200" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:40:04.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18019" CreationDate="2015-06-12T12:08:26.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to RAW the decision is to be made before ANY to hit rolls are made. So the decision is to be made before the first (any) to hit rolls are made, so the decision were made when markers were fired &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12909" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T12:08:26.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9527" CreationDate="2015-06-12T13:18:05.680" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest issue here, is that you don't get two Jewelry for moving on the track anytime, only when you take the Merchant action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for that specific card are clear.  You move 1 space on the track.  It says nothing about getting jewelry.  So, to give the same answer via a different route.  Nothing is gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12911" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T13:18:05.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24609" CreationDate="2015-06-12T13:35:26.887" Score="3" ViewCount="3916" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I happened to be in possession of those 3 items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Idol&lt;/strong&gt; : once during your turn, you can add 2 dice to your roll, but lose 1 Sanity in the process&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Skull&lt;/strong&gt; : anytime you should take mental damage, you can take the same amount of physical damage instead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Armor&lt;/strong&gt; : Anytime you take physical damage, take 1 damage less of it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can guess what I'm getting to: with this combination, I was able to use the idol on each turn without losing Sanity or any trait points whatsoever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only problem is that this interpretation of the rules implies that &lt;strong&gt;&quot;lose X [Mental trait]&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; equates to &lt;strong&gt;&quot;take X mental damage&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;. In a way it is true, because &lt;em&gt;technically&lt;/em&gt;, by losing 1 point of Sanity, you are &quot;taking &lt;em&gt;damage&lt;/em&gt; to one your &lt;em&gt;mental&lt;/em&gt; traits&quot;. In other words, if you lose enough of said trait, you'll die. So you are being &quot;damaged&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But on the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;&quot;take (X) mental damage&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; is an explicit request mentioned on cards and rules ; and precise naming conventions are fairly important in a game like Betrayal. (such as the difference between &lt;em&gt;players&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;heroes&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;explorers&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is your opinion on that matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12910" LastEditorUserId="12910" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T15:02:31.913" LastActivityDate="2018-07-29T12:27:42.967" Title="Does &quot;lose 1 Sanity&quot; count as &quot;taking mental damage&quot;?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="47" CreationDate="2015-06-12T14:24:43.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One more tip, I always size up what the most scarce resource is, and unfairly favor it. For example, if the only sheep spaces are a 5 on the coast, a 3 and 11, I'd be pretty hard pressed to not take the 5 if I know I'll be the only or 1 of two with access to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12912" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T14:24:43.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24607" CreationDate="2015-06-12T15:14:37.097" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Lose one sanity&quot; instructs you to reduce one specific stat, which is quite different from taking one point of mental damage, and so are the situations were both occur. While taking damage results in stat loss, I don't think stat loss is damage. The existence of a difference between the two is supported by the game using both &quot;lose 1 from a mental trait&quot; and &quot;take 1 point of mental damage&quot; in different circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T19:52:44.597" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T19:52:44.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25081" CreationDate="2015-06-12T16:20:50.267" Score="0" ViewCount="2044" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been googling away, but I just can't find any resources that explain the rules of how to play World of Warriors (the Topps card game, not that app).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know a resource? Or could anyone explain the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-01-02T02:51:31.747" LastActivityDate="2018-01-02T02:51:31.747" Title="World of Warriors - how to play?" Tags="|world-of-warriors|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5300" CreationDate="2015-06-12T16:35:38.977" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disagree with the answer that says to always fail the first one. Unpredictability is usually a huge part of the strategy for the evil team. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played a game just last night where the first quest was 2 people, both evil. They passed the mission added a third good person, passed the second mission. Then managed to sail through the rest of the game without suspicion and fail the next 3 missions consecutively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it depends a lot on the situation. If I'm evil and on the first team sometimes I will fail it if I have another evil person on the team, so we can just cast suspicion on each other and hopefully the good team will never suspect us both, but this involves signaling so we don't both fail it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll also fail it if I think I can convince everyone one of the other team members is guilty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But depending on the order it can be beneficial to pass the first mission, also sometimes I end up on a team with someone I know is extremely vocal and once they know I'm evil will stop at nothing to have me off the team, so if it is a team of 2 I'm usually more wary to fail it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to keep in mind is if you are playing the Avalon addition and are Mordred you could give yourself away to Merlin, which is a huge disadvantage for the evil team. Its better to get a known evil person on the team to fail it or hide in a team of 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T16:35:38.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24612" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-12T17:53:10.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sentinels Tactics&lt;/em&gt; is a superhero miniatures game set in the world of the &lt;em&gt;Sentinels of the Multiverse&lt;/em&gt; card game. It was first published in 2014 by Greater Than Games, LLC and Living Worlds Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/sentinels-multiverse&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;sentinels-multiverse&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;sentinels-multiverse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T21:49:08.880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T21:49:08.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24613" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-12T17:53:10.393" Score="0" Body="A superhero miniatures game set in the world of the Sentinels of the Multiverse card game." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-12T21:49:04.337" LastActivityDate="2015-06-12T21:49:04.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24616" CreationDate="2015-06-12T20:42:05.283" Score="7" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellheart%20Chimera&quot;&gt;Spellheart Chimera&lt;/a&gt;. The creature gains +1/+0 for each sorcery or instant in the owners graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work with such cards as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=369042&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Far // Away&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few opinions on this matter, but cannot find an official ruling from WotC (or whoever hands down official rulings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone provide references to the official rulings, or the location of these rulings so I can look it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12856" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T04:42:00.817" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T18:00:22.533" Title="How does Spellheart Chimera count Fuse or Split cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24614" CreationDate="2015-06-12T20:55:05.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;My previous answer was wrong, but I will leave it so someone doesn't fall into the same trap I did.  The relevant rule is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.6a Anything that performs a positive comparison (such as asking if a card is red) or a relative comparison (such as asking if a card’s&#xA;converted mana cost is 3 or less) involving one or more split cards in&#xA;any zone other than the stack or involving one or more fused split&#xA;spells gets only one answer. This answer is “yes” if either side of&#xA;each split card in the comparison would return a “yes” answer if&#xA;compared individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Void reads, “Choose a number. Destroy all artifacts and&#xA;creatures with converted mana cost equal to that number. Then target&#xA;player reveals his or her hand and discards all nonland cards with&#xA;converted mana cost equal to the number.” If a player casts Void and&#xA;chooses 1, his or her opponent would discard Assault/Battery because&#xA;its converted mana costs are 1 and 4. The same is true if the player&#xA;chooses 4. If the player chooses 5, however, Assault/Battery would be&#xA;unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since at least one side is an instant or sorcery it gets back a yes answer and only counts as one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;To quote one of the rulings from the Gatherer page for Far / Away (also rule 702.100b):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every zone except the stack, split cards have two sets of&#xA;characteristics and two converted mana costs. If anything needs&#xA;information about a split card not on the stack, it will get two&#xA;values.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when the game goes to count the number of instant and sorceries in your graveyard for Spellheart Chimera power and gets to Far / Away it gets back that is is an instant twice and therefore counts it as two instants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give another example from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/frequently-asked-questions-2013-04-22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards FAQ on Dragon Maze rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every zone except the stack, split cards have two sets of&#xA;characteristics and two converted mana costs. If anything needs&#xA;information about a split card not on the stack, it will get two&#xA;values. For example, if a player reveals Down &amp;amp; Dirty due to&#xA;Duskmantle Seer's ability (&amp;quot;At the beginning of your upkeep, each&#xA;player reveals the top card of his or her library, loses life equal to&#xA;that card's converted mana cost, then puts it into his or her hand.&amp;quot;),&#xA;the game will see its converted mana cost as 4 and 3. This translates&#xA;to that player losing a total of 7 life.&#xA;&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-09T15:00:43.830" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T15:00:43.830" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24614" CreationDate="2015-06-12T20:56:24.933" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If &amp;quot;Far // Away&amp;quot; was the only card in your graveyard, Spellheart Chimera would be 1/3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split cards always count as a single card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;708.2. Although split cards have two castable halves, each split card is only one card. For example, a player who has drawn or discarded a split card has drawn or discarded one card, not two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the Chimera asks for instant or sorcery &lt;em&gt;cards&lt;/em&gt;, an important difference to just instant/sorcery. The latter only exists on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would also count as a single card if the two halves had different types, for example if one half was instant and the other a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2022-07-09T18:00:22.533" LastActivityDate="2022-07-09T18:00:22.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T00:26:17.650" Score="12" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been seeing a strange behavior that I don't understand.  It seems to only happen with somewhat older players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When they have paper money in a game, they &lt;em&gt;slide it partway under the edge of the game board&lt;/em&gt;.  Where is this behavior coming from?  Is there a game that teaches it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've asked, and they've said it's just what you're supposed to do in board games.  It's particularly disconcerting when the board is modular and being explored during the game, or when lifting the board to slide your money under it causes pieces to be knocked over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've even seen players lose money this way, money that gets slid too far under the board and isn't discovered until we're cleaning up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a clear, understandable reason for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T19:27:07.347" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T19:27:07.347" Title="Why do older players keep their money under the edge of the board?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24617" CreationDate="2015-06-13T02:21:50.363" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I never thought of it, but now that you do mention it, I do recall sliding Monopoly money under the board separated by denomination (as a kid in the 80s). The best reason I can think for why we did that is that it was simply fun to pretend you were pulling money out of a cash register. You could argue it made making change or putting together amounts faster, but I don't think it amounted to more than simply watching others do it (most likely for the aforementioned reason). I doubt a specific game taught it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T02:21:50.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24630" CreationDate="2015-06-13T02:30:44.783" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mesodae's Lantern states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your energy reserve is decreased by 1. At the end of the round, receive 3 crystals.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, do you receive 3 crystals one time immediately after playing it, or do you go 3 crystals at the end of each round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T19:56:20.183" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T19:56:20.183" Title="Is Mesodae's Lantern effect recurring?" Tags="|seasons|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24619" CreationDate="2015-06-13T06:47:44.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You receive 3 crystals at the end of each round while it is in play. The symbol at the bottom left of the card indicates that the effect is continuous, as all end-of-round triggers (that I can remember) are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12907" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T06:47:44.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24650" CreationDate="2015-06-13T07:06:32.890" Score="4" ViewCount="754" Body="&lt;p&gt;The warlock monster can inflict the closest investigator with Cursed during the Reckoning Phase. Since conditions are handled after monsters during the reckoning phase, can I then roll to see if I can get rid of the Cursed condition during that Mythos phase, or do I have to wait until the next Mythos phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:06:22.520" Title="Can I attempt to get rid of my Cursed condition on the same reckoning phase that a Warlock inflicts me?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24622" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24649" CreationDate="2015-06-13T07:12:35.350" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;The lead investigator may pass the token to another player. Are there any situations or conditions that prevent a player from receiving the token? I initially wondered this when an investigator received a delayed condition, concluded that he could be lead, then wondered if any case at all ever prevented an investigator from being granted lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T10:26:59.397" Title="Are there any conditions or situations that prevent a player from choosing to be lead investigator?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24623" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24698" CreationDate="2015-06-13T07:27:55.300" Score="2" ViewCount="679" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dimensions Collide mythos card is a rumor card that says &quot;As an encounter, an investigator on space 11 may attempt.... If he passes, he puts an end to their rituals; he may spend Clues equal to half the number of investigators to solve this Rumor&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have no clues, can I do this encounter (strategically as a means to avoid any ill effect should I fail the test), and then simply to do nothing if I succeed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:15:15.223" Title="Can I choose an encounter if I am unable to complete the clues requirement upon passing the test?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27508" CreationDate="2015-06-13T13:36:57.157" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ghost stories white moon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using the village cemetery tile to bring a player back, the revived player gets 2 Qi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When using this same tile to bring a villager back from the graveyard, what happens with the Qi? Does the active player get them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11892" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T11:23:41.900" Title="Ghost stories white moon - cemetery tile Qi" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24625" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24627" CreationDate="2015-06-13T17:06:34.823" Score="2" ViewCount="752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was browsing around Gatherer the other day, and found that there are multiple examples of cards with identical wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Final%20Fortune&quot;&gt;Final Fortune&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Last%20Chance&quot;&gt;Last Chance&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warrior%20Oath&quot;&gt;Warrior Oath&lt;/a&gt; all have identical wording / color / costs / type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ambition%20Cost&quot;&gt;Ambition Cost&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancient%20Craving&quot;&gt;Ancient Craving&lt;/a&gt; are twins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I have found a triplet above, is there a quadruplet?  Quintplet cards with identical wording?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T17:53:54.357" Title="Are there quadruplet cards in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24625" CreationDate="2015-06-13T17:43:04.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards that are effectively the same but have different names are often called &amp;quot;functional reprints&amp;quot;. The one with the most duplicates is probably &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt;, which has 4 functional reprints: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Balduvian%20Bears&quot;&gt;Balduvian Bears&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bear%20Cub&quot;&gt;Bear Cub&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest%20Bear&quot;&gt;Forest Bear&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt;. All five of them are 2/2 creatures that cost {1}{G} and have the type &amp;quot;Bear&amp;quot; and no abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Functional_reprint&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This wiki page&lt;/a&gt; lists every card with functional reprints. That page shows &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hill%20Giant&quot;&gt;Hill Giant&lt;/a&gt; as having the most functional reprints instead of Grizzly Bears because it counts otherwise identical creatures with the same types as functional reprints.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T17:43:04.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24625" CreationDate="2015-06-13T17:43:43.510" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The phrase you're looking for is &amp;quot;functional reprint&amp;quot; - they're not literally reprinted cards, but they're functionally the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Functional_reprint&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of them on MTG Salvation&lt;/a&gt;. You can just skim through the table and look for cards with lots of reprints. Generally cards like that are pretty boring, for example vanilla creatures. Simpler cards tend to make sense in more sets, and the renaming happens when the old name doesn't fit thematically with the set they want to print it in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the most-reprinted cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; (1G, 2/2): &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Barbary%20Apes&quot;&gt;Barbary Apes&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Balduvian%20Bears&quot;&gt;Balduvian Bears&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bear%20Cub&quot;&gt;Bear Cub&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest%20Bear&quot;&gt;Forest Bear&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cylian%20Elf&quot;&gt;Cylian Elf&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; (except not all of those are bears)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hill%20Giant&quot;&gt;Hill Giant&lt;/a&gt; (2R, 3/3): &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tor%20Giant&quot;&gt;Tor Giant&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ogre%20Warrior&quot;&gt;Ogre Warrior&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Barbarian%20Horde&quot;&gt;Barbarian Horde&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Jhovall&quot;&gt;Wild Jhovall&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Canyon%20Minotaur&quot;&gt;Canyon Minotaur&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lagac%20Lizard&quot;&gt;Lagac Lizard&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Russet%20Wolves&quot;&gt;Russet Wolves&lt;/a&gt; (except most of those aren't giants)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There are plenty more creatures that have been functionally reprinted a few times; some even have exciting abilities like flying or mountainwalk!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I think the most-reprinted noncreature spell (though I didn't go through the list too carefully yet) is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Remove%20Soul&quot;&gt;Remove Soul&lt;/a&gt; (1U, &amp;quot;Counter target creature spell&amp;quot;): &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Summoning&quot;&gt;False Summoning&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Preemptive%20Strike&quot;&gt;Preemptive Strike&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Essence%20Scatter&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt;. (Note that Preemptive Strike is from Portal Three Kingdoms and thus the wording on the physical card is really really awkward, but the oracle text is the same.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T17:53:54.357" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T17:53:54.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24628" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24629" CreationDate="2015-06-13T19:02:26.020" Score="1" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a power like the Legacy's &quot;Galvanize&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Until the start of your next turn, increase damage dealt by hero targets by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this interact with powers that deal two different types of damage, such as Fanatic's &quot;Exorcism&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fanatic deals 1 target 1 melee damage and 1 radiant damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Fanatic deal 2 melee damage and 2 radiant damage? Or 2 of one type and 1 of another type of the player's choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T20:21:31.040" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T20:21:31.040" Title="How does +1 damage interact with a power with two damage types?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24628" CreationDate="2015-06-13T19:14:16.140" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It increases damage dealt by hero's each time they deal damage so in this case Fanatic would deal 1 target 2 melee damage and 2 radiant damage. It should be remembered that in a case like Fanatic each hit if the damage is considered a different damage. And in the case of Legacy it increases all hero damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now where you need to be careful is if you where dealing with something that said the next time the character did damage or the first time that turn they do damage in a case like that only the melee portion of the damage would be increased.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how the it works in the iPad app when using Fanatic's power while Legacy's power is in effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-06-13T19:22:28.293" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T19:22:28.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24619" CreationDate="2015-06-13T19:54:54.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Régis Bonnessée, who is the designer of the game posted in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/980916/question-about-mesodaes-lantern/page/2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lantern give you 3 crystals each round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a permanent effect like Titus (see the symbol).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T19:54:54.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-13T20:20:06.707" Score="2" ViewCount="772" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played this game several times, but I am still confused when it comes to supply and the amount of armies you can have. Are you allowed to go over your army limit, but when a supply card comes up, you just have to diminish your armies? For example, if I am playing as Lannister and I start the game with 2 supply which means I can have one army of 3 and two armies of 2, am I allowed to have an army of 4, but go down to three if the supply card comes up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12919" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T09:17:46.320" Title="A Game of Thrones: 2nd Edition Supply" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24638" CreationDate="2015-06-13T21:02:25.620" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to declare I am using the abort switch card before we flip for the current register, or can I call to use it after seeing everyone's cards for that register? The description implies the latter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once each turn, you may replace one of the Program cards you reveal with the top card from the deck. If you do, you must replace the Program cards for all your remaining registers the same way that turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T00:08:57.483" Title="Can you use the Abort Switch option after seeing the other players' cards for that register?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24635" CreationDate="2015-06-13T21:56:24.803" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any explicit rules in when or how to use option cards. The rules on page 8 talk of option card priority and refer to using 'an option card'. Can I use two at the same time, such as Ramming Gear (which doesn damage to the pushee) and Reverse Gear (which alters how far you back up)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T23:50:44.803" Title="Can I use more than one option card at a time?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24636" CreationDate="2015-06-13T22:01:41.397" Score="0" ViewCount="71" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you started in Dock 1, but my move has higher priority than yours, and my option cards involve my movement while your option card involves your movement, does the higher movement priority allow me to execute my option first (then allow you to take your move and then execute your option), or does the ruling on page 8 on resolving option card priority imply that the docking bay priority rules overtop of each 'complete registers' or 'robots move' segment (and in this case the dock 1 player, you, goes first)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T23:53:38.393" Title="Does move priority come first when deciding option card play?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24633" CreationDate="2015-06-13T23:50:44.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as long as they don't conflict. (For example, you couldn't use the Mini Howitzer and the Tractor Beam at the same time.) There's nothing in the rules that says otherwise. There are a few places that do mention having more than one option card; surely they'd have mentioned if you couldn't actually use both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T23:50:44.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24634" CreationDate="2015-06-13T23:53:38.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the option card priority rules only apply when decisions about option cards would otherwise be made at the same time, for example, if you're both firing lasers and deciding whether to use options. But if you're moving, you already know who moves first, and you decide whether to use the option card as you move, so the option card priority rules never come into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-06-13T23:53:38.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24632" CreationDate="2015-06-14T00:08:57.483" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not 100% clear, but I'd say yes, you can see the other players' cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules explicitly say that everyone reveals their cards at the same time, so if you reveal a card, everyone else's are visible too. (I'd probably try to avoid spending much time looking around at everyone else's moves and figuring out conveyor belts and so on, though!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T00:08:57.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24631" CreationDate="2015-06-14T03:42:19.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  The supply cards are when you adjust your position on the Supply track, but your armies must always respect your supply.  This is called out specifically in the supply section of the rulebook on page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player is never allowed to take any action in the game that would cause him to exceed his actual supply limit as dictated by his position on the Supply track (such as mustering, marching, or retreating).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mustering section on page 9 has a blurb that reinforces this idea:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may never muster a unit that would create or expand an army beyond his actual supply limit.  In other words, if mustering a new unit would cause a player to have more (or larger) armies than allowed by his position on the Supply track, &lt;strong&gt;that unit cannot be mustered&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, in your example, you cannot have an army of 4 while you remain at position 2 on the supply track.  This also prevents you from swapping out say a siege engine for a footmen - once you recruit a unit, you're stuck with it until it dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5762" LastEditorUserId="5762" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T09:17:46.320" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T09:17:46.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24617" CreationDate="2015-06-14T16:28:09.467" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has most likely been passed down throughout the generations as &quot;the way to do it&quot;, &lt;em&gt;without any actual backing reasons&lt;/em&gt;, but there are some situations where it is &lt;em&gt;beneficial&lt;/em&gt; to put the money under the edge of the game board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Small playing areas (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24617/why-do-older-players-keep-their-money-under-the-edge-of-the-board#comment33356_24618&quot;&gt;such as a small table&lt;/a&gt;) where space is at a minimum, so it makes sense to conserve space by putting money under the edge of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing outside (where it can be windy) or inside with a fan can cause the money to be shifted constantly, so sliding it under the board allows it to be pinned down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In games where money is not the driving factor (such as Monopoly, where the &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Title_Deeds&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Title Deeds&lt;/a&gt; are more important), it helps to keep your focus on what matters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes it easier to keep the denominations in separate piles (if that applies) as you don't need to worry about sifting through a single pile to find the right denomination.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12617/joey&quot;&gt;Joey&lt;/a&gt; has already mentioned the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/24618/12922&quot;&gt;playful/imagination aspect of it&lt;/a&gt; which may also apply in some cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12922" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T16:28:09.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24645" CreationDate="2015-06-14T17:12:09.417" Score="2" ViewCount="1552" Body="&lt;p&gt;There seems to be a lot of websites offering games against computer AND with a computer partner. There is also plenty of portals where you can play with 3 other people. I am looking for something in between - there is two of us and we want to practice by playing with computer opponents.&#xA;Anything that works in a browser, on a desktop (Linux / Windows only) or on an Android phone would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not have to be free, but I would like to be able to get a free trial at least to be able to make sure it gives me what I need. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12923" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:10:03.517" Title="Website / software for playing bridge against computer, but partnering with a human" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25652" CreationDate="2015-06-14T18:02:55.710" Score="1" ViewCount="648" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the state parlor is built, and a dwelling is later added, does the player get the two food bonus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One school of thought is that the bonus is applied only once for the parlor itself.  Another school of thought is that the bonus is applied to each dwelling once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has implications for the milking and weaving parlor as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T18:37:19.227" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T15:33:05.810" Title="Does State Parlor give bonus for dwellings added after the fact?" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24643" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-14T18:38:59.453" Score="5" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Open%20the%20Vaults&quot;&gt;Open the Vaults&lt;/a&gt; and there is a Bestow enchantment creature in my graveyard, can I bring it onto the field as an aura? Or just as a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12920" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-14T22:54:22.763" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T22:54:22.763" Title="Will Open the Vaults let me return Bestow creatures as Auras?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24643" CreationDate="2015-06-14T18:56:19.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can't use Bestow when you bring a creature with Bestow onto the battlefield without casting it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bring creatures on to the field without casting it, you can't pay the Bestow cost, and you can't enchant another creature that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bestow [cost]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may &lt;strong&gt;cast&lt;/strong&gt; this card by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost. If you chose to pay this spell’s bestow cost, it becomes an Aura enchantment and gains enchant creature. These effects last until one of two things happens: this spell has an illegal target as it resolves or the permanent this spell becomes, becomes unattached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T21:03:56.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24641" CreationDate="2015-06-14T19:18:56.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this Android app, allowing all the things you list (and also duplicate hands for solo games!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.weweweb.android.free.bridge&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;WeWeWeb Bridge (free)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seem to remember there's a way to access it in a web browser as well, but I haven't used that often.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12448" LastActivityDate="2015-06-14T19:18:56.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24646" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T01:37:22.360" Score="3" ViewCount="2266" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Smash Up, can I play multiple actions on a base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12928" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T01:46:13.170" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T01:00:27.370" Title="Can I stack ongoing action cards on the same base in Smash Up?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24646" CreationDate="2015-06-15T06:41:45.620" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, unless an earlier played action card or minion on the base prohibits that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rules there is a section that states that the rules are not perfect. There will be clashes. And there are some tie-breakers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If rule A prohibits X and rule B grants X, rule A wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If all else fails, the player whose turn it is decides.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T06:41:45.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24648" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24651" CreationDate="2015-06-15T09:28:03.407" Score="2" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'am trying to solve problem 633 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://tsumego.tasuki.org/books/cho-1-elementary.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;elementary set&lt;/a&gt; (black's move):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UBdCC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that after black takes the outside liberty, it's a seki. Or is there a better solution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1845" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T13:12:12.423" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T13:12:12.423" Title="Tsumego elementary problem 633 - seki?" Tags="|go|tsumego|seki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24622" CreationDate="2015-06-15T10:26:59.397" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/c7/d6/c7d6cff6-7025-41f9-8538-bb0626feb4f4/eh01_rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of each Mythos Phase, the Lead Investigator may pass the Lead Investigator token to &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; player of his choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore no, according to the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an added point. If the Lead investigator wanted to pass it to a dead character this would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the defeated investigator has the Lead Investigator token, he &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; pass the token to an investigator of his choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since New Investigators are chosen at the end of the Mythos phase as well you could always ensure that New Investigator choice takes precedence to prevent any chance of the dead player being left out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T10:26:59.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24621" CreationDate="2015-06-15T10:55:13.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 10 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/c7/d6/c7d6cff6-7025-41f9-8538-bb0626feb4f4/eh01_rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resolve these effects in the following order: Monsters, Ancient One sheet, &lt;em&gt;Ongoing&lt;/em&gt; Mythos cards, and lastly investigator possessions and Conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would suggest that you can, however, in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt; it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Monster is spawned or an investigator gains a component while investigators are resolving reckoning effects, they do not resolve the reckoning effect on that Monster or component.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since cards are components, you cannot get rid of it on this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T15:06:22.520" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:06:22.520" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24648" CreationDate="2015-06-15T12:57:07.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, White is dead after you fill that liberty.  He can never attack the Black stones, but Black can capture the stone in the corner.  After that there is a ko that will kill White.  There's no way for White to win the ko - filling it in leaves the white stones in atari.  At the end of the game when White has no more ko threats, Black can take the ko, and then the white group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T12:57:07.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24641" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:10:03.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://bridgebase.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bridgebase Online&lt;/a&gt; will do this. They call their computer players &quot;robots&quot;. &quot;Advanced&quot; robots are $1/day, &quot;Basic&quot; ones are $1/week. The advanced ones are slower and stronger. I recall that they once offered free robot access one day per month, but it's not mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/help/v2help/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T13:10:03.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:25:41.917" Score="4" ViewCount="10821" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone said they can block with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt; then return it to their hand with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quirion%20Ranger&quot;&gt;Quirion Ranger&lt;/a&gt; before the Arbor takes damage.  That sounds wrong to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10333" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T13:40:04.140" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T14:19:24.303" Title="Can you block with a creature then return it to your hand before it takes damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-06-15T15:13:25.293" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24653" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:36:34.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can return a blocking creature to your hand before it takes damage. What happens is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You block with Dryad Arbor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You and your opponent both get a chance to cast instants and activate abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage is dealt&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that if the blocked creature has tramble, it will still assign all of its damage directly to the player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules 509.1 through 509.7 cover what happens during the declare blockers step, which occurs before damage is dealt. The two rules that are relevant to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1. First, the defending player declares blockers.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  509.5. Fifth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twoevils.org/html/mtg/turn.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a diagram&lt;/a&gt; that illustrates the turn structure. It shows all the opportunities that you get to cast or activate things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T14:19:24.303" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T14:19:24.303" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24674" CreationDate="2015-06-15T13:58:33.433" Score="1" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that line of sight for a hunter is down the row and column it is on. However, if an agent has been spotted by one hunter, can another hunter attack diagonally since the position of the agent is known?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T16:08:20.027" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T12:44:43.563" Title="Can a hunter attack diagonally?" Tags="|specter-ops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24662" CreationDate="2015-06-15T15:40:56.217" Score="5" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have created a card game in which one of the mechanics relies a lot on trust, and would be very easily cheated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is played in 5 rounds, and has a total of 15 tokens to spread as you wish through these rounds. The amount of tokens selected needs to be private until both players reveal them at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Knowing how many tokens your opponent uses would allow you to either let them waste their tokens, or make you win the round.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What would be the best method to prevent cheating?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12851" LastEditorUserId="12851" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T11:57:16.077" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:28:08.160" Title="How do I prevent cheating on my token based card game?" Tags="|game-design|cheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ClosedDate="2015-06-17T22:32:10.447" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24661" CreationDate="2015-06-15T15:43:15.900" Score="6" ViewCount="3064" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most drafts that I have seen on MTGO use a set of numbers after the format. I think it describes what matches are played after the drafting portion. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Modern Masters 2015 6-2-2-2&lt;sup&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/MTGO/articles/archive/magic-online/modern-masters-2015-edition-event-schedule-2015-05-04#MM26222&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;[1]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern Masters 2015 refers to the types of boosters that will be opened. What does the &quot;6-2-2-2&quot; mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have also seen &quot;8-4&quot; as a common postfix. Are there others, and if so what do they mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T16:31:13.167" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:31:13.167" Title="Numbers after a draft format" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24658" CreationDate="2015-06-15T15:49:08.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the prize payout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First place receives 6 booster packs, 2nd 3rd and 4th receive 2 each.  (Or first place receives 8 and second receives 4, in the other example.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you scroll down a bit on your link it's written out in a table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:49:08.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24658" CreationDate="2015-06-15T15:49:38.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the prize payout. 6-2-2-2 means 1st place will get 6 packs, and 2nd - 4th will get 2 packs each. 8-4 means first gets 8 packs, 2nd gets 4. This is shown underneath under the Prizes section on the page you linked to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3 Wins &lt;strong&gt;6 Modern Masters 2015 Edition booster packs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2 Wins &lt;strong&gt;2 Modern Masters 2015 Edition booster packs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a normal 3 round, 8 person draft, assuming no ties you will end up with 1 person with 3 wins, and 3 with 2 wins (and 3 with 1 win and 1 with 0 wins, though they don't get any prizes in a 6-2-2-2 tournament)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:49:38.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24658" CreationDate="2015-06-15T15:50:54.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must be referring to MTGO (the online version of the game). You generally enter a draft with seven other players (for a total of eight). The postfix refers to how many packs you will receive when the tournament is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The postfix &quot;6-2-2-2&quot; indicates three rounds of Swiss. Swiss means that you will continue to play whether you win or lose. After three rounds of 6-2-2-2 are completed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One player will have three wins. That player receives six packs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three players will have two wins. They will each receive two packs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The postfix &quot;8-4&quot; indicates three rounds of single elimination. This means that when you lose, you are out. After three rounds of 8-4 are completed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One player will be the winner. That player receives eight packs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One player will be the runner-up. That player receives four packs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is described in more detail on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/MTGO/articles/archive/magic-online/modern-masters-2015-edition-event-schedule-2015-05-04#MM26222&quot;&gt;the Wizards of the Coast website&lt;/a&gt; (which I just noticed you also linked to in the question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T15:50:54.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24657" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:46:12.810" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You simply need a mechanic that makes it impossible for a player to see the other players' token counts until they are all simultaneously revealed.  There are quite a few ways to do this, so you have the freedom to choose something that fits with the theme of your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many games (ex: Robo Rally, The Resistance) use &lt;strong&gt;cards&lt;/strong&gt; for this mechanic.  It is one of the simpler methods.  Each player puts a card face down in front of them, and removes his or her hand from the card to show that the decision is final.  All players then reveal their cards simultaneously.  The cards can either be discarded or returned to hand based on the rules of your game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A single &lt;strong&gt;token&lt;/strong&gt; or tokens that can represent multiple values could be used.  For example, in Pizza Theory, each player has a 6-sided die that is use to signify their decision.  The players cup their hands over the dice until they are revealed.  This may not be practical for your game if each value from 0 to 15 must be possible; while you could use multiple or larger dice, it does increase the chance of a player accidentally bumping them on reveal and changing the values.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In games where multiple pieces of information are revealed simultaneously (rice counts in Shogun) or the pieces are impractical to hold in hand (Puzzle Strike), each player has a &lt;strong&gt;screen&lt;/strong&gt; which can be used to hide their secret information until the reveal.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:46:12.810" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24446" CreationDate="2015-06-15T16:49:29.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After considering the links in this thread, I've concluded that the Silver Key artifact can be used anywhere you might spend a clue including re-rolls. The single situation I would say it cannot be used is where the wording says after resolving a research encounter, the investigator can spend a clue gained from that encounter to etc such as in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/p3/Marketing%20Images/Mystery%20Card/01_OccultResearch.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Azathoth Occult Research mystery card&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole purpose of this wording seems to be to imply that the investigator should have succeeded in gaining &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; specific clue in order to spend a clue, and not allow one to circumvent it (i.e. via the Astronomer ability) to supply a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from that case, it's an artifact, so should be viewed as all manner of awesome. A 1 clue per round boon in every non-specific clue interpretation sounds fair game to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T16:49:29.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24581" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:06:59.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some checker sets that have different faces on the two sides with one side typically being a crown. I remember one silly game where this came up we just made sure all the crown sides were down on all the pieces then flipped the checker to mark a king. We only did this when there weren't enough captured pieces to make a king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TjRw9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TjRw9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;two faced checkers example&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T00:51:40.063" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T00:51:40.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24666" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:14:06.350" Score="8" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have two abilities that allow me to search my deck for something and shuffle, may I use a shortcut to grab both to save time on shuffling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polluted%20Delta&quot;&gt;Polluted Delta&lt;/a&gt; on the field, and I attempt to activate both of them. I know I can put them both on the stack at the same time and cause them to resolve back to back, but is there any way I can skip over the first shuffle process since I'm about to search again anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T13:14:50.170" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T13:14:50.170" Title="Am I allowed to shortcut two abilities that allow me to search my deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24665" CreationDate="2015-06-15T18:31:35.897" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general yes you can do both searches, and only shuffle once. You would do this by proposing a shortcut where you resolve both abilities without them responding in between. Assuming they accept the shortcut you can shorten search, shuffle, search, shuffle to search, search shuffle. Since if nothing happens between the two abilities resolving the first shuffle is pointless and a waste of time. This is supported by a ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373333&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Green Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt;, which technically tells you to shuffle your library twice.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, if you own Green Sun's Zenith and cast it, you'll shuffle your library twice. In practice, shuffling once is sufficient, but effects that care about you shuffling your library (like Psychogenic Probe, for example) will see that you've shuffled twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if there is a card on the battle filed like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psychic%20Surgery&quot;&gt;Psychic Surgery&lt;/a&gt;, that triggers on the shuffle and alters the cards in the library, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Future%20Sight&quot;&gt;Future Sight&lt;/a&gt; that reveals the top card of the library you cannot use this shortcut as the game state would be changing in meaningful ways that you aren't able to account for with your shortcut. Some other cards that trigger on a shuffle like the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psychogenic%20Probe&quot;&gt;Psychogenic Probe&lt;/a&gt; would not prevent you from using this shortcut however since their results are the same so you can account for them in your proposed shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And remember even if you only actually shuffle once the game still sees both shuffles, so anything that triggers on shuffling will trigger twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-06-15T20:28:09.563" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T20:28:09.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24668" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-15T21:44:38.523" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the three black stones placed, I did the &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?AllAbout33PointInvasion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3-3&lt;/a&gt; invasion.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ........|&#xA;$$ ...X....|&#xA;$$ ...X.1..|&#xA;$$ ....X...|&#xA;$$ ........|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried tried to force a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Ko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KO&lt;/a&gt; and did get 2 moves elsewhere, but I would rather have lived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ........|&#xA;$$ ...X..5.|&#xA;$$ ...X.O.7|&#xA;$$ ....X236|&#xA;$$ ......4.|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does 3-3 invasion work here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4848" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:38:22.887" Title="Does the 3-3 invasion work with 3 stones already placed?" Tags="|go|invasion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24668" CreationDate="2015-06-15T23:31:22.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black 6 should be at white 7. After this white dies uncondittionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://online-go.com/demo/66482&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://online-go.com/demo/66482&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9995" LastActivityDate="2015-06-15T23:31:22.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24671" CreationDate="2015-06-16T00:42:27.207" Score="5" ViewCount="2203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have to sacrifice multiple creatures to pay for an ability, e.g. &lt;em&gt;Flashback - Sacrifice two creatures.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the stack interaction work if I sacrifice one creature with an enters the graveyard effect that makes a token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current reasoning is that the sacrificed creature enters the graveyard putting its token generating trigger on the stack.  This trigger resolves making the token which enters the battlefield. Can I now sacrifice the token to pay for the remaining creature sacrifice for the flashback which is still on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2182" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T03:56:26.510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T03:57:02.440" Title="If I sacrifice a creature for a spell and it creates a token, can I sacrifice that token for the spell too?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24670" CreationDate="2015-06-16T01:18:13.747" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your reasoning is only partly correct: you can't use that extra token to help pay for the spell, because it won't exist yet. You have to sacrifice two creatures that you already have at casting time. If you want extra creatures and tokens to sacrifice, they have to be there first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's because of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the spell casting process&lt;/a&gt;. During that process, nothing else happens — no abilities get to happen or be used, with the exception of mana abilities, not even triggered abilities get to happen yet — and we follow steps that go like this for a Flashback spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce you're casting the spell and put it on the stack: &lt;em&gt;I'm playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dread%20Return&quot;&gt;Dread Return&lt;/a&gt; using Flashback.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make the choices you must make: &lt;em&gt;It will target this creature card.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine the cost: &lt;em&gt;I need to sacrifice three creatures.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use mana abilities, like those your lands possess, if you need to. That isn't relevant to this spell though.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay that cost. &lt;em&gt;I sacrifice this one, this one and this one.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's only &lt;strong&gt;after this entire process&lt;/strong&gt; — by which time you need to have paid for the spell in full — that triggered abilities go on the stack. Someone gets priority, so we check for each triggered ability that could've just now happened, and put those on the stack after the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;strong&gt;now, after you've paid for the spell,&lt;/strong&gt; the stack will look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Top:&lt;/strong&gt; A triggered ability that will create a token.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bottom:&lt;/strong&gt; Dread Return.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, the token ability hasn't resolved yet, and it'll resolve before Dread Return does. But Dread Return's already there, cast, and has been paid for in full, and paying for it is ancient history. The token wasn't there, and &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; isn't even there yet, and couldn't possibly have been involved in paying the cost for Dread Return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then if nobody does anything else (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidslime&quot;&gt;Voidslime&lt;/a&gt; the token ability, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cancel&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; Dread Return), you'll get your token, and then Dread Return will resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-16T03:57:02.440" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T03:57:02.440" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5828" CreationDate="2015-06-16T04:46:38.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like your newer players' disadvantage will be mostly in the deck creation phase of the draft. I suggest handicapping the experienced players in this phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Impose a time limit per pick on the experienced players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Impose a time limit for deck creation after the draft on the experienced players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the new players more flexibility around side boarding between games&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider increasing the minimum deck size for the experienced players, this will force them to include more of their weaker cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is to make it harder for the experienced drafters to build a great deck, without having to impose house rules on the actual games. It also has the added benefit of pushing the draft skills of these players even further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12937" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T04:46:38.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24668" CreationDate="2015-06-16T09:38:22.887" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Liam showed a good way to kill the invasion already, but you can be even more mean and play 2 at 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ........|&#xA;$$ ...X....|&#xA;$$ ...X.1..|&#xA;$$ ....X...|&#xA;$$ ......2.|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white then plays 3, you just draw back instead of playing below 1, and you avoid a cut at 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ .....c..|&#xA;$$ ...Xb.a.|&#xA;$$ ...X.1..|&#xA;$$ ....X.3.|&#xA;$$ .....42.|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, a, b and c are miai to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cut would not usually be dangerous, but it at least allows white to get 1 or 2 outside sente moves in the area, which is more than she should get - the original invasion at 3-3 was way too deep (the deepest possible would be white 1 at 2 in the above diagram, but that is a bit advanced, don't worry about it too much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White may try to be sneaky and return to the variation with the cut present like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ........|&#xA;$$ ...X....|&#xA;$$ ...X.1..|&#xA;$$ ....X...|&#xA;$$ .....32.|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, you can easily play at 6 instead of a to gain more and avoid white's sente atari at 6. The white inside group is still dead as per what we saw above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$Wm1&#xA;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ........|&#xA;$$ ...X....|&#xA;$$ ...X.1a.|&#xA;$$ ....X45.|&#xA;$$ .....32.|&#xA;$$ ......6.|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T09:38:22.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24656" CreationDate="2015-06-16T12:44:43.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoting from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/specter-ops-shadow-of-babel/rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 5 bottom right):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After a hunter moves, if the agent is visible to that hunter, that hunter&#xA;  may attack the agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, a hunter has to see its own target, you can't use another hunter's line of sight for that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-06-16T12:44:43.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24677" CreationDate="2015-06-16T18:04:35.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1908" Body="&lt;p&gt;On first glance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/156714/doomtown-reloaded&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/a&gt; (2014) looks pretty similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1037/deadlands-doomtown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Deadlands: Doomtown&lt;/a&gt; (1998) and they are both published by AEG. What differences are there between each other? Are they compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:45:32.813" Title="What are the differences between Deadlands: Doomtown and Doomtown: Reloaded?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|deadlands-doomtown|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24676" CreationDate="2015-06-16T18:04:35.523" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both games are indeed similar. They are both set in the Deadlands universe (although &lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt; does not explicitly say it, despite there being obvious signs such as Harrowed, Hucksters, and other references to the setting). Both have the basic mechanics of cards having playing card values and the need to control locations while managing ghost rock. And both have an ongoing story that is in continuity with the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big difference between the two is that &lt;em&gt;Deadlands: Doomtown&lt;/em&gt; was packaged as a collectible card game. &lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt; on the other hand is what AEG calls an &quot;Expandable Card Game&quot;, which is exactly the same as a Fantasy Flight Games' &quot;Living Card Game&quot; (Fantasy Flight Games trademarked the term, so AEG had to come up with something different). Instead of having booster packs, new sets have 4 copies of every card in them, so you don't need to scour for that one card you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for actual rules differences, the core gameplay is the same, but there are a number of important differences. A &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/document/d/1styrqhaxfVx__cYlao3pBuecgUWTj5f0N-ECuv-XO7Y/edit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;fanmade compilation&lt;/a&gt; of the rules differences is pretty exhaustive. A few highlights:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Decks can only have 4 cards of the same suit and value.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dude and deed Uniqueness only applies to your own gang.  Different crews can have the same dude or deed in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If you equip more than one weapon or horse the previous weapon or steed are discarded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Skills checks are now equal to or greater, instead of just greater than the target number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Aced dudes no longer have their gear sent to boot hill.  It is discarded instead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When resolving shootouts, a dude can be discarded for 1 rank difference in casualties, and aced for 2 rank difference.  If they are harrowed, they can be sent home booted for 1 rank difference, discarded for 2 and aced for 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Bounties can be increased beyond 1 ghost rock, and anybody with a bounty is considered wanted (if the amount is reduced to 0, they are no longer wanted)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Law Dogs (or any other faction) are no longer able to boot to remove bounty&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Card memory no longer exists (i.e. once a card is out of play, all effects on it, including permanent effects, are removed and not added back if the card is returned to play)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The player with the most influence no longer draws an extra card at Nightfall (now called Sundown)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Fear level no longer exists&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Events no longer exist.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a number of new mechanics, such as Grifters, which allow you to activate their ability at the start of the game if they are in your starting posse. For instance, the Grifter in the base set can boot to shuffle your starting hand into your deck and draw 5 more cards (this ability can only be used once at the start of the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also notice that there are some general paradigm shifts in &lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt;. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/doomtown/2014/06/17/rock-gone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a developer diary&lt;/a&gt; explained that it was intentional that there are so few Out of Town locations (basically, the Out of Town &quot;landslide&quot; deck that was used often in &lt;em&gt;Deadlands: Doomtown&lt;/em&gt; became too powerful and too difficult to contest, since movement was restricted). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite the similarities, the two card sets are not intended to be played with each other and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/doomtown/files/2014/11/Doomtown-Floor-Rules-Effective-23-nov.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; explicitly state that you cannot use &lt;em&gt;Deadlands: Doomtown&lt;/em&gt; cards with &lt;em&gt;Doomtown: Reloaded&lt;/em&gt;. That said, it probably is possible to mix them, so long as you remove any cards that contradict with any new rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T04:45:32.813" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:45:32.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24657" CreationDate="2015-06-17T13:28:08.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This mechanic sounds like &quot;Blind Bid auction&quot;&#xA;In a blind bid auction all players select how much they will pay, and then find out the bids.  Usually the highest bid wins and pays, but sometimes there are other rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way most games do this is using the shield and fist method.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Money is kept behind a shield so other players don't know how much money each player has, and is not in the bid.  Sometimes if there is not too much money, it is just kept in a hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is time to bid players place a certain amount on coins, including zero and hold their fist out.  Once everyone has their fist out the bids are locked.  At this time everyone opens their hand and shows how many coins they have in their hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system works in most cases, and leaves no wiggle room for people to add coins to their closed fist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="832" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T13:28:08.160" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21410" CreationDate="2015-06-17T14:32:58.420" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is legal to create a team that does not have you on it.  It should be very rare though.  Here's why:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The argument that the previous teams succeeded is not logically strong enough to force the leader to leave himself off the team.  He could argue that the previous teams had a sleeper spy (which is not provable either way with the information public at the time) and replace one with himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider that a person can always make the argument that he trusts himself more than any other single person, and that argument is essentially irrefutable.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, if he is a resistance member, he knows with 100% certainty that he is a resistance member and should put himself on the team. Therefore, a resistance leader would need a very good explanation for why he would be excluding himself from the team he builds.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a spy should frequently act like a resistance member to be convincing, a spy leader also has a strong reason to put himself on the team and needs a good explanation to exclude himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion the third leader in your game played poorly in that situation.&#xA;That player should have replaced one of the earlier team members, had some discussion about it, and put it for a vote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T14:32:58.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2015-06-17T16:56:04.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played two person Catan quite a few times.  The best way I've found is to play with four players and each person controls two colors.  The rules are that you can only trade 1:1 from hand to hand, but you can trade as much as you want with your opponent.  Turns go back and forth between you and your opponent and between your hands.  For example: you right hand, his left hand, you left hand, his right hand and then repeat.  The final rule is you need a combined amount of 18 victory points between both hands.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T16:56:04.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24286" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:00:47.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically speaking nothing in the rules would prevent that from happening, even if they are &quot;giving away cards for free through the trading&quot;.  That is a moral issue of playing ethically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends upon whether or not you play with people who are douches or not.  If you play with nice people who understand that sometimes people make mistakes then you should let them undo the trade.  If they won't trade back, then maybe you shouldn't be playing with them anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:00:47.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24119" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:03:23.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These fit perfectly, I bought them for a close friend who I play Catan with and he liked them so much he bought a whole bunch more.  They only fit the US regular size version not the hand painted wood version with small cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00A28RG5C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A28RG5C?ref_=pe_623860_70668690&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12949" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:03:23.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="651" CreationDate="2015-06-17T17:33:27.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggested a way to play with 2 players that hinges largely on a trading dynamic with the shared neutral player here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6104/how-do-you-make-settlers-of-catan-work-well-for-2-players-problems-and-play-te/24568#24568&quot;&gt;How do you make Settlers of Catan work well for 2 players? (Problems and play-tested solution described, alternatives requested)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is that you trade 1 for 1, then 2 for 1, then 3 for 1, and so on, randomly drawing from the neutral hand, making it progressively more expensive to get what you want.  The second key is that you can use this mechanic to &lt;strong&gt;stack&lt;/strong&gt; the neutral player with resource power and force a win for him (thus a draw for the two human players).  This creates an atmosphere of tension as you each keep trying to gain position but not too quickly in the eyes of your opponent until it's a clear shot to run away to victory (otherwise he will pile into the neutral player and force a draw).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T17:33:27.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24686" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T19:07:46.740" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/79067/hex-hex-xl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hex-hex&lt;/a&gt;, our gaming group gets into some rather interesting debates as to how particular timing and effects.  This is one of my favorite aspects to the game, though it can cause things to become rather heated at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a card interaction which sparked special debate last game, which I pose to the members of the boardgames.SE community to add their input.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those who are unaware of the game, the rules are located &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wix.com/ugd/693f33_ed471abd8e66494e8962823e4768b93f.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but the short version of it is that it plays like a complicated game of hot potato.  A hex passes around and you should continue passing it around through the use of cards, and if you cannot respond to the hex, it explodes on you, giving the person who most recently passed it points and causing you to lose points (in most situations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Important excerpts from rulebook for this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play only when hexed:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;These cards are time bombs.  Most are either good news for you or badnews for someone else.  But here's the trick... they only trigger if the Hex actually &quot;goes off&quot; on you.  That said, you can't simply choose to be Hexed.  So, if you have cards that would allow you to pass the Hex, you&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;play those first.  But when HEXED as a result of having no other cards that allow you to legally pass the Hex or because another player causes the Hex to &quot;go off&quot; on you prematurely (as with the card, Stun) they must be played, for good or ill.  If you hold more than one card of this type in your hand, choose one to play for each time you are HEXED.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar paragraph elsewhere:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A player may also become HEXED as a result of certain cards (Stun, Maddening Compulsion) which cause the Hex to &quot;go off&quot; prematurely.  Players may not, however, simply allow themselves to be HEXED if they have the means to pass the Hex instead.  Nor can players cause themselves to be HEXED by naming themselves the target of the Stun or other similar cards.  (Someone might be tempted to do so if they hold a card that gives a benefit to being HEXED, like 'Level'.  But don't let 'em.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And a specific card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Foretell&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;play immediately when dealt.  Draw a card.  This Round, all players must sequence their cards and stack them face down in front of themselves.  Cards&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;be played in this order, starting with the top card.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also does mention in the rules &quot;&lt;em&gt;Follow the specific instructions on the card.  Where those instructions conflict with the genreal rules printed on this sheet, the card prevails&lt;/em&gt;.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific situation: Foretell had been drawn as the cards were dealt to all players.  One of the players, we'll call him player &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;, had the following hand and chose to order it as: &quot;[Turn aside left], [Level], [Null], [Knock-aside left], [Turn aside right]&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Level is a &lt;em&gt;play only when hexed&lt;/em&gt; card which when played by someone not in the lead sets their score tied with the current voice-leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play began and player &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; was forced by Foretell to use his Turn aside left when he was first targeted.  The player to his left then played Maddening Compulsion Right (&lt;em&gt;All players are now compelled to pass this Hex to the Right by any means possible.  If they cannot, they are HEXED&lt;/em&gt;).  As the hex is now in front of player &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; again and the top remaining card in his hand is Level (which does not pass the hex, much less to the right) it explodes and the player wanted to gain the benefits of Level.  Someone tried to null his Level, but then he nulled that player's null, letting it stay in effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the player have been allowed to order his cards in such a way that he buried cards which are legal to play (which he would have been forced to play had foretell not been active) so as to have his beneficial &lt;em&gt;play only when hexed&lt;/em&gt; card higher on his stack? (Satisfies the rules of Foretell, but violates rule of needing to play a card if able)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this have been different had he not had a Turn-aside-right card, but instead something else that could not send it to the right but in the same order with Level potentially higher than other cards which might have happened to be legal plays under different circumstances?  (satisfies rules of foretell and satisfies rule of needing to play a card if able, but little way of knowing this would happen)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would this have been different had he had the same hand but his level card was on the bottom?  Would he be allowed to play level then? (If yes, then does not satisfy foretell, but does satisfy play only when hexed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps a house rule to rectify the situation would be that when under the effects of Foretell, &lt;em&gt;play only when hexed&lt;/em&gt; cards must be placed at the bottom of your hand but may be played out of order when hexed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-17T19:54:47.163" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T23:47:43.797" Title="Hex Hex card interactions (foretell, play only when hexed, maddening compulsion)" Tags="|house-rules|hex-hex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24576" CreationDate="2015-06-17T19:10:48.973" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Robin only gets a bonus from your Batman, and would not get a bonus from your opponent's Batman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Page 19 of the rules at &lt;a href=&quot;http://dicemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/mdm/MDM_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dicemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/mdm/MDM_Rules.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Powers, Abilities, and Card Text&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Card text that names a character only considers your characters for its effects. Your card’s &#xA;text doesn’t trigger because your opponent has the same character, nor do your dice get a &#xA;bonus from your opponent’s cards of the same name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Active and Fielded&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When game text says, “While active,” that means “When one or more of this card’s dice are in the field.” &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T19:10:48.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-17T22:15:53.483" Score="2" ViewCount="1170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just curious for games going forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the expansion allows you to see how people have played on missions, can reveal people's cards, etc, it seems like these are all an advantage mostly to the resistance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In people's experience - does it make it easier for the resistance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:57:02.597" Title="Does 'The plot thickens' make the game easier or harder?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12678" CreationDate="2015-06-17T22:43:33.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only does the leader get to look at the plot cards, but &lt;em&gt;everyone&lt;/em&gt; does, and they can see who he distributes them to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T22:43:33.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24696" CreationDate="2015-06-17T22:47:29.673" Score="4" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules are explicit about plot cards being assigned only once per round, there being only five rounds in a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a single round can go through several leaders (if votes fail). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, are the plot cards distributed simply by the person who is the leader at the time that the new round starts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so - it appears that there would likely be a bit of gaming going on with voting to approve a mission or not, not only due to who's on the mission, but who will be the leader next, so they can assign the plot cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this by design? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:54:12.943" Title="Clarification about drawing and assigning plot cards" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="81" CreationDate="2015-06-17T23:22:53.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I invented the ressurector who can bring one person and one random card back to life every other round, but in my experience the ressurector always happens to die first which is weird.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also play where everyone has jobs as a cover during the day. There's a journalist who makes up a story about how everyone died, a gossiped who tells lies and blames others for the killing, and other jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play without villagers because when you play like that it can get boring sometimes for them. I use all special characters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12954" LastActivityDate="2015-06-17T23:22:53.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2015-06-18T02:10:55.400" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use the 'W' shape piece first or second move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12957" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T11:17:06.417" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:17:06.417" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24693" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-18T05:29:17.840" Score="3" ViewCount="3792" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent is using an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avacyn%20Pilgrim&quot;&gt;Avacyn Pilgrim&lt;/a&gt; (and three forests) to cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cudgel%20Troll&quot;&gt;Cudgel Troll&lt;/a&gt;, and I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; the monk, does that counter the Troll being cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the same be true for a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loxodon%20Smiter&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12958" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T15:41:12.253" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T21:01:47.877" Title="Does killing a creature mana source that's being tapped for mana to pay for a spell counter that spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24693" CreationDate="2015-06-18T06:25:12.203" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once your opponent is casting a spell, that's the only thing that's going on. (There are plenty of steps to the process, including activating mana abilities and paying costs, but it's all things that are part of casting the spell.) You have no chance to interrupt with a spell of your own. And if you cast Lightning Bolt on their Avacyn's Pilgrim at some point when you get priority before they're doing anything, they can always tap it in response for mana. So you can't stop them from getting mana, and it doesn't matter what they intend to do with that mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way you can reasonably do something like this to stop them from casting a spell is to kill the Pilgrim &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; they are actually able to cast that spell. For example, if you think they might want to cast a non-instant spell, you could kill the Pilgrim before they reach their main phase, perhaps on your own turn or during their upkeep, when they can't cast it. But this doesn't &lt;em&gt;counter&lt;/em&gt; a spell, it just hopefully keeps your opponent from having an opportunity to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Dragon has pointed out, mana abilities resolve immediately, without using the stack, so even if your opponent for some reason wanted to give priority to you after activating the ability, rather than just using the mana, they'd &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; have the mana floating in their mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, while Avacyn's Pilgrim's ability is a mana ability and thus can't be stopped from resolving, there are ways to produce mana besides mana abilities, and those can potentially be stopped. For an ability to be a mana ability, it has to meet a few criteria:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it does not have a target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it could produce mana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's not a loyalty ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xenagos%2C%20the%20Reveler&quot;&gt;Xenagos, the Reveler&lt;/a&gt;'s +1 loyalty ability is not a mana ability: it can produce mana, but it's a loyalty ability. It uses the stack, and you'll get a chance to respond. You could kill one of your opponent's creatures in order to reduce the amount of mana it produces. However, killing Xenagos wouldn't do anything about it; the ability exists independently and will still resolve and produce mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathrite%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Deathrite Shaman&lt;/a&gt;'s first ability is not a mana ability: it can produce mana, but it has a target (a land card in a graveyard). If in response you exile that land card, the ability no longer has a legal target and it will be countered by the rules of the game, leaving your opponent without the mana. However, like with Xenagos, killing the Shaman won't stop the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But of course, most things that produce mana &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; mana abilities, so there's no way to stop them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-18T20:43:31.223" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T20:43:31.223" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24688" CreationDate="2015-06-18T09:38:30.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would agree that it makes the game slightly easier for the resistance side, but as a comment mentions it can vary a lot depending on the play style of the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience and opinion, it makes the game more strategic and interesting. Since it provides some extra information, allows for a better focusing of the speculation and decision making processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After discovering the expansion, I wouldn't play without it unless I'm teaching new people how to play thus making an exception for the first game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10200" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T09:38:30.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24690" CreationDate="2015-06-18T09:47:25.807" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Plot cards are distributed by the first leader of a round only. Indeed, it is important to know who will be first leader of the next round, as they will be the ones distributing the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9948" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T09:47:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24693" CreationDate="2015-06-18T11:10:35.920" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana abilities are stupidly fast:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.3b&lt;/strong&gt; An activated mana ability doesn't go on the stack, so it can't be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated. (See rule 405.6c.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_Abilities&quot;&gt;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_Abilities&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can't do anything after the Pilgrim is tapped to stop the mana being generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12959" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:10:35.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24623" CreationDate="2015-06-18T11:15:15.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because order of operations is important and there is an option in the description, the above situation would be a possible way of avoiding a potentially 'bad' encounter.  Since the card is written in a way to say &quot;First, attempt a  check.  Then, you may spend  clues to remove this rumor.&quot;, that means that you can always attempt the check as an encounter, regardless of your clue token total.  The card would need to be written differently if it wanted to use clue tokens as a prerequisite.  Something like &quot;If the investegator has  number of clue tokens, they may attempt to remove this rumor as an encounter.&quot;  So, yes, you can use this instead of doing another encounter on the space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T11:15:15.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3566" CreationDate="2015-06-18T13:19:51.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess is all about tactics!&#xA;Some people will argue that positional thinking is part of chess.  In fact positional play is just very advance tactic position.  So at the end it is just tactics!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12961" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T13:19:51.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9042" CreationDate="2015-06-18T19:23:18.340" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing Resistance Avalon most of the time and I haven't read through the rules, but when I play the votes are anonymous and it had worked fine for us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are roles like Merlin who can use the anonymous vote to signal that there is someone evil on the team, but even when we play with no characters it has worked great. It definitely does give evil an advantage, but I like adding another layer of uncertainty. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T19:23:18.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24693" CreationDate="2015-06-18T21:01:47.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana abilities resolve immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;605.3b An activated mana ability doesn’t go on the stack, so it can’t be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instant spells do not resolve immediately. You have to give your opponent a chance to respond first. (This is covered by rules on timing and priority, which are more complex than this question calls for.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two ways that the situation you described could happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Situation A&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You begin with priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt targeting Pilgrim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Pilgrim for mana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Bolt resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent uses the mana to cast Troll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Situation B&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent begins with priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Pilgrim for mana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent uses the mana to cast Troll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt targeting Pilgrim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Bolt resolves, targeting Pilgrim&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the order of events changes a little, the end result is the same. It is simply not possible for you to prevent your opponent from activating the Pilgrim. Your opponent will always have a chance to respond to your Lightning Bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: Depriving your opponent of mana (for example, with a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Short&quot;&gt;Mana Short&lt;/a&gt;) does not counter a spell. It simply prevents them from casting it in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-06-18T21:01:47.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24705" CreationDate="2015-06-18T23:55:39.280" Score="9" ViewCount="8130" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidmage%20Apprentice&quot;&gt;Voidmage Apprentice&lt;/a&gt; is a creature with Morph that counters target spell when it is turned face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've read that it can counter spells with split second.  How does it do this?  Is it that the ability is an added effect of the morph action and does not use the stack?  Or is it a triggered ability that split second cannot prevent from being placed on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12554" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T23:59:07.010" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T23:59:07.010" Title="How can a Morph ability counter split second spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2015-06-19T00:15:02.913" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Gatherer ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidmage%20Apprentice&quot;&gt;Voidmage Apprentice&lt;/a&gt; explains it fairly well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell with split second is on the stack, you can still respond by turning this creature face up and targeting that spell with the trigger. This is because split second only stops players from casting spells or activating abilities, while turning a creature face up is a special action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability still does use the stack, but split second doesn't stop it. And of course, you're able to turn it face up in the first place because that's a special action, not an activated ability that uses the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T00:21:36.553" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T00:21:36.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1830" CreationDate="2015-06-19T01:00:43.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest thing to do is to just start later. Dominion has a distinct (though slight) first player advantage. So start last, every game. (The rules even say to have the player to the left of whoever last won to go first.)  If that's not enough, just do nothing your first turn, or two turns. This has the advantage of being completely legal under the rules as written and so no changes need to be made to the game at all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing against poorer players, I sometimes handicap myself by not allowing myself to intentionally gain attack cards. Sometimes I also play a slightly worse strategy than I otherwise would play. But in my experience, unless it's overwhelming, just play fast and well -- get more games in, and they'll get better. And if they're really bad, sometimes just play treasure bot to make sure they're all above base-line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12779" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T01:00:43.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7738" CreationDate="2015-06-19T03:08:25.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a pdf. Pretty tough to find. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameguys.ie/sites/bggnew/files/The_Resistance_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgameguys.ie/sites/bggnew/files/The_Resistance_rules_english.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T03:08:25.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24708" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24725" CreationDate="2015-06-19T04:39:22.850" Score="0" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a card like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/find/?q=soothe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Soothe&lt;/a&gt; from &lt;em&gt;Faith &amp;amp; Fear&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Noon Miracle 10, Boot:&lt;/strong&gt; Boot this Blessed to unboot another dude at this or an adjacent location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This card has a pull and an effect that includes booting the character. Am I right in saying that the character only gets booted if the pull is successful, and the character is not booted if it is not? (The Miracle would of course be booted either way, since that is the cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T18:02:18.613" Title="If a card with a pull has an effect that boots the character, do they boot only if successful?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24709" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-19T04:43:35.143" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Deadlands: Doomtown&lt;/em&gt; is a 1998 collectible card game set in the Deadlands universe. It was published by Alderac Entertainment Group (AEG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was revamped into an Expandable Card Game (ECG) in 2014 as &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/doomtown-reloaded&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;doomtown-reloaded&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;doomtown-reloaded&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T11:58:24.857" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T11:58:24.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24710" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-19T04:43:35.143" Score="0" Body="A 1998 collectible card game set in the Deadlands universe. Not to be confused with the 2014 Doomtown: Reloaded." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T12:55:59.343" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T12:55:59.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24711" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24712" CreationDate="2015-06-19T06:26:27.213" Score="3" ViewCount="1413" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been constructing a green/white commander deck, and doing a lot of searches on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MagicCards.info&lt;/a&gt; for its cards. To cut out all the cards I can't use, I've been using the search term &lt;code&gt;c!gw&lt;/code&gt; to get just green and white cards. But I just realised that's a terrible way to search — it filters out all the off-colour hybrid mana cards!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a search of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=c!gw+o%3A%22enchant+land%22+o%3A%22mana+pool%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;c!gw o:&amp;quot;enchant land&amp;quot; o:&amp;quot;mana pool&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; yields a lot of green/white land ramping enchantments. But it excludes &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trace%20of%20Abundance&quot;&gt;Trace of Abundance&lt;/a&gt;, which costs {R/W}{G}, making it red and excluded from the search, despite being perfectly castable with just green and white mana and exactly the kind of card I want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using a more inclusive filter of &lt;code&gt;c:gw&lt;/code&gt; would also include lots of three-colour cards which I cannot cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I filter a MagicCards.info search down to &lt;strong&gt;only those cards I can cast with particular mana colours?&lt;/strong&gt; If my mana pool is &lt;em&gt;exclusively&lt;/em&gt; green and white, is there a filter that will include cards I can cast with those colours, even if they're off-colour cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Figure%20of%20Destiny&quot;&gt;Figure of Destiny&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trace%20of%20Abundance&quot;&gt;Trace of Abundance&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Colourless cards can be included or left out. They are simple enough to search for separately with &lt;code&gt;c:c&lt;/code&gt;, or exclude from the search with &lt;code&gt;-c:c&lt;/code&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, it's been pointed out to me my group's been accidentally playing without the color identity rule. Doesn't matter! Still good. Question ahoy!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-20T12:11:19.527" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T03:43:12.120" Title="How can I efficiently filter MagicCards.info searches down to cards castable with only certain mana colours?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24711" CreationDate="2015-06-19T06:55:03.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are asking for is effectively equivalent to &quot;the mana cost does not contain {U}, {B}, {R}, {U/B}, {U/R}, or {B/R}&quot; because those are all of the mana symbols that &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; be paid from your mana pool. This can be equivalently expressed by negating the expression that says &quot;the mana cost contains any one of those symbols&quot;. So, the resulting query is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=-%28mana%3E%3Du%20or%20mana%3E%3Dr%20or%20mana%3E%3Db%20or%20mana%3E%3D%7BU%2FB%7D%20or%20mana%3E%3D%7BU%2FR%7D%20or%20mana%3E%3D%7BB%2FR%7D%29%20o%3A%22enchant%20land%22%20o%3A%22mana%20pool%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-(mana&gt;=u or mana&gt;=b or mana&gt;=r or mana&gt;={U/B} or mana&gt;={U/R} or mana&gt;={B/R})&lt;/strong&gt; o:&quot;enchant land&quot; o:&quot;mana pool&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the &lt;code&gt;-&lt;/code&gt; at the beginning that negates the bolded expression. As you can see, this does in fact list every card your search found, plus Trace of Abundance. It also incidentally includes colorless cards and cards with Phyrexian and colorless hybrid mana symbols (e.g. {UP} or {2/R}) because it is possible to play those without spending any mana of their colors at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T21:24:24.667" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T21:24:24.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24688" CreationDate="2015-06-19T13:15:20.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Plot Thickens basically adds more opportunities to link players together, thus creating longer and more complex chains of information.&#xA;What I mean by chain of information is something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A and Player B both were on a failed mission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B knows Player C's role card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C has declared players D and E to play success cards, but their mission with player A failed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chains make it easier to deduce information, thus making the Resistance players' role easier. But of course, experienced Spy players can learn to work with, or around, such cards, to confuse people even more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tl;dr: The Plot Thickens makes the game more balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12969" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T13:15:20.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24716" CreationDate="2015-06-19T14:52:30.707" Score="4" ViewCount="769" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent Smash Up match we had the base 'The Homeworld', that has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After each time a minion is played here, its owner may play an extra minion of power 2 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played wizards (and something else that doesn't matter, because I had at this point mostly Wizard cards in the hand). I had a lot of creatures, because of a previous Portal and they were mostly Enchantress and Neophyte. We concluded I can them all play on The Homeworld, as they all have a power of two and playing one triggers the ability and allows me to play the next until my hand is emptied (or I decide to stop). Was that played correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-19T15:15:19.193" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T11:54:33.983" Title="How is 'The Homeworld' played correctly?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24715" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:17:00.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. If it could only be triggered once per turn, it would read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the first time a minion is played here each turn, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T11:54:33.983" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T11:54:33.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24711" CreationDate="2015-06-19T15:27:00.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trace%20of%20Abundance&quot;&gt;Trace of Abundance&lt;/a&gt; is not allowed in White-Green Commander deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.4. The Commander variant uses color identity to determine what cards can be in a deck with a certain commander. The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card’s mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.5c A card can be included in a Commander deck only if every color in its color identity is also found in the color identity of the deck’s commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trace of Abundance's color identity is White, Red and Green. It can't be included in a deck whose Commander's color identity is White and Green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should be using magiccards.info's &lt;code&gt;ci&lt;/code&gt; filter. It allows you to limit the results to those matching a color identity. For a White-Green Commander, you'd specify &lt;code&gt;ci:wg&lt;/code&gt;. Of course, this is even more restrictive than &lt;code&gt;c!wg&lt;/code&gt;, so Trace of Abundance will not be returned by a query with that filter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were constructing a non-Commander deck and you wanted to search for &amp;quot;cards castable using only White and Green&amp;quot;, I'm pretty sure you were once able to use &lt;code&gt;(c!wg or c:c)&lt;/code&gt;. This means that &lt;code&gt;(c!wg or c:c) &amp;quot;Trace of Abundance&amp;quot;&lt;/code&gt; used to return Trace of Abundance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it appears this is no longer the case, so you'll need to exclude the mana symbols you can't use instead: &lt;code&gt;-(mana&amp;gt;=u or mana&amp;gt;=b or mana&amp;gt;=r or mana&amp;gt;={U/B} or mana&amp;gt;={U/R} or mana&amp;gt;={B/R})&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T03:43:12.120" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T03:43:12.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24704" CreationDate="2015-06-19T18:36:57.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unmorphing a card does not use the stack.  This is how it gets around the split second effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This behavior is very similar to mana source behaviors of creatures as discussed in this recent post:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24693/does-killing-a-creature-mana-source-thats-being-tapped-for-mana-to-pay-for-a-sp&quot;&gt;Does killing a creature mana source that&amp;#39;s being tapped for mana to pay for a spell counter that spell?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this behavior exists, is it prohibits your opponent from smoking your morphling with a lightning bolt when you declare you wish to unmorph.  It makes morphing more useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the rule for unmorphing, that shows it doesn't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.36e Any time you have priority, you may turn a face-down permanent you control with a morph ability face up. This is a special action; &lt;strong&gt;it&#xA;  doesn’t use the stack&lt;/strong&gt; (see rule 115).  ...[stuff deleted]...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-06-19T19:14:42.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24722" CreationDate="2015-06-20T04:20:55.730" Score="5" ViewCount="9518" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151228222002/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/ftl/259&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; on Wizards of the Coast website claims that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eater%20of%20Days&quot;&gt;Eater of Days&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;lose your next two turns&amp;quot; can be avoided by use of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;.  I can't figure that out.  There are no rulings on Eater of Days, and it is not an &amp;quot;end of turn&amp;quot; type of effect.  Is the author just wrong?  [seems unlikely]  Or maybe the rules have changed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-06-18T15:00:24.347" LastActivityDate="2022-06-18T15:00:24.347" Title="How does Sundial of the Infinite help you avoid losing turns to Eater of Days?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24721" CreationDate="2015-06-20T04:25:28.667" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A ruling on Sundial of the Infinite says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ending the turn this way means the following things happen in order: 1) &lt;strong&gt;All spells and abilities on the stack are exiled.&lt;/strong&gt; This includes spells and abilities that can't be countered. 2) All attacking and blocking creatures are removed from combat. 3) State-based actions are checked. No player gets priority, and no triggered abilities are put onto the stack. 4) The current phase and/or step ends. The game skips straight to the cleanup step. The cleanup step happens in its entirety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eater of Days' ability is a triggered ability, so if you respond to it by activating Sundial of the Infinite, that triggered ability will be exiled and will never resolve. So, you don't have to skip any turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T04:25:28.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2457" CreationDate="2015-06-20T09:38:00.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can only answer for High-Bohn. They add new beans, but more importantly both add other things too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;High-Bohn adds facilities you can buy for money that has special beans on the other side. For example, there are facilities you can only buy with red beans. These facilities add new rules for you to use, like adding another field for only one sort of beans, changing the beanometers for some types of beans, give additional bonus at the end of the game, add a storage for the cards you draw for trade and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ladybohn adds female beans, that change the beanometer if placed on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T09:38:00.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11373" CreationDate="2015-06-20T09:41:11.183" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are right, only the active player draws cards. So the standard-rules make it possible that you empty your hand through trades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extension &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/4377/ladybohn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ladybohn&lt;/a&gt; offers a rule variation. Instead of the active player drawing three cards, everyone draws one card at the end of the turn. That makes the game faster for higher numbers of players. We usually use that rule, even if we don't use Ladybohn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="407" LastEditDate="2015-06-21T21:03:28.807" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T21:03:28.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24708" CreationDate="2015-06-20T18:02:18.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are correct that the character is only booted if the pull is successful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the rulebook page 29, under 'Spells':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the skill check equals or exceeds the spell's difficulty, the spell succeeds and you use that ability. Otherwise, the spell fails and &lt;strong&gt;nothing happens&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastActivityDate="2015-06-20T18:02:18.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24726" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25109" CreationDate="2015-06-20T21:59:09.190" Score="2" ViewCount="3526" Body="&lt;p&gt;The book does not specifically say anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2021-07-24T20:00:39.897" LastActivityDate="2021-07-24T20:00:39.897" Title="In Axis &amp; Allies 1941 can tanks and infantry hit aircraft?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24721" CreationDate="2015-06-21T02:27:57.897" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Sundial of the Infinite can be used to avoid skipping your next two turns. Here is what happens in more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSundial%20of%20the%20Infinite%5d&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEater%20of%20Days%5d&quot;&gt;Eater of Days&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eater of Days enters the battlefield, and its triggered ability, &amp;quot;When Eater of Days enters the battlefield, you skip your next two turns.&amp;quot; is put on the stack.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: triggered abilities are defined in detail in comprehensive rule 603.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Sundial of the Infinite's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone passes priority.  (i.e. it is possible for an opponent to respond to Sundial of the Infinite's activation)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step (1) of of Sundial of the Infinite's ability exiles &amp;quot;you skip your next two turns&amp;quot; from the stack.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Note&lt;/em&gt;: The details of how to resolve Sundial of the Infinite's ability is covered in comprehensive rule 713.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At present, three cards can stop a turn.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSundial%20of%20the%20Infinite%5d&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTime%20Stop%5d&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bObeka%2c%20Brute%20Chronologist%5d&quot;&gt;Obeka, Brute Chronologist&lt;/a&gt;.  The rulings on those cards are consistent, but different, and it's worth reading all of them to understand the implications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="22954" LastEditDate="2020-12-21T15:27:53.893" LastActivityDate="2020-12-21T15:27:53.893" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24729" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T11:50:39.260" Score="5" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm an amateur player in Magic: The Gathering (Modern format) and I was looking for a card that makes an enemy play a spell from my hand.&#xA;For example if I had a &amp;quot;Discard your hand&amp;quot; card I could make him play that as if it was him (making him pay the mana cost or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hive%20Mind&quot;&gt;Hive Mind&lt;/a&gt; enchantement exists; are there any other cards with a similar effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12979" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T10:38:11.263" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T10:38:11.263" Title="Is there a card that makes an enemy play my spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24730" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T16:37:48.663" Score="2" ViewCount="1347" Body="&lt;p&gt;From only a handful of plays I've gathered that a few moves might be to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are on the good team, kick things off with full disclosure such as &quot;I am the seer and I know for a fact you are a villager&quot; to make a play to rightfully gain that person's trust. The immediate downside I see to this could be a claim from a troublemaker that your card was switched, making it just as convincing to that person that you are no longer the safe card you claim to be.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are a werewolf, take a stab at claiming one of the roles and run the risk that someone is that role or knows that role was in the center, and deal with the &quot;my word against his&quot; situation that could ensue. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make an non-fully disclosing claim such as &quot;I know you're a good guy&quot; to gain someone's trust but not openly say you are the robber and now have their former card or you are the seer and looked at their card (as a means to protect against the troublemaker claim in point 1). This might be useful if you are the werewolf to lessen the chance you're called out for lying about having a specific card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there other common basic openings? I've only played twice, and only with 3 players so my thoughts on strategies are mostly a thought exercise and not from experience. I did notice some paralysis in anyone making an statement, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:00:40.090" Title="In One Night Ultimate Werewolf, what are some common opening moves?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T17:35:07.587" Score="2" ViewCount="208" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05_ES_Revised_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; on page 12 say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For example, if there are two effects in play that lock the yellow die, the locks are addressed in the order in which they came into play: after the yellow die is freed from the first lock, it is placed on the second lock. After the die is freed from the second lock, the players may add it to their dice pool after using a common item that adds the yellow die to the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies to me that two separate adventures that lock the yellow die must be resolved in order of appearance, but I'm skeptical that they mean to say we cannot simply resolve the second adventure first. Is there another way to interpret this rule as described?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T20:08:32.523" Title="In Elder Sign, why do multiple locks have to be resolved in order?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24732" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T17:48:26.330" Score="1" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given a game of Chinese Checkers&#xA;And that I have a marble next to a foreign home which is not the taget opposite&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I place my marble in that foreign home?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I jump in and out of that foreign home if it takes me back outside?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12940" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:00:24.227" Title="Can I enter a non-target foreign home in Chinese Checkers?" Tags="|chinese-checkers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2015-06-21T18:01:21.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you mean the original rules, then yes. Only submarines are unable to hit aircraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12940" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T18:01:21.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-21T18:43:37.597" Score="4" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a token from Dominion Adventures is placed on a duration pile, is the token applied only when you initially play (lay down) the duration card or both when you lay it down AND when you play the duration effects at the start of the next turn? The directions say &quot;when a player... plays a card&quot;.  For duration cards, is the second use &quot;playing&quot; it again?&#xA;Makes a difference on whether I'd ever put a token on Hireling or not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12982" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T05:01:56.223" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T05:01:56.223" Title="dominion adventures, using tokens on duration piles" Tags="|dominion|dominion-adventures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24732" CreationDate="2015-06-21T19:00:24.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the version of the rules. Some versions let the unused homes occupied by unused pegs making them unusable. But some versions let them open so they can be used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also implies that you can uses unoccupied foreign homes of other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastersgames.com/rules/chinese-checkers-rules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:00:24.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24734" CreationDate="2015-06-21T19:11:53.077" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only &quot;play&quot; the Duration once, on the turn when you, well, play it. The next turn it will just have an effect without you needing to play it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this means Durations don't work especially well with the +1 Card etc tokens. They'll still work okay, especially if your deck is reasonably big (so you don't often have Durations enduring over the reshuffle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:11:53.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24729" CreationDate="2015-06-21T19:17:14.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hive Mind is definitely the simplest. Apart from that, there are other ways but they're a lot more convoluted. Things like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=One%20with%20Nothing&quot;&gt;One with Nothing&lt;/a&gt; on an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Isochron%20Scepter&quot;&gt;Isochron Scepter&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Donate&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; the scepter, then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; your opponent and make them cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=One%20with%20Nothing&quot;&gt;One with Nothing&lt;/a&gt; on top of your library (perhaps with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Insidious%20Dreams&quot;&gt;Insidious Dreams&lt;/a&gt;), then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knowledge%20Pool&quot;&gt;Knowledge Pool&lt;/a&gt;. Then use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; and have them cast any spell, and choose to turn it into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=One%20with%20Nothing&quot;&gt;One with Nothing&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of other ways that are just as complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2015-06-22T10:34:35.793" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T10:34:35.793" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24435" CreationDate="2015-06-21T19:46:36.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible for a game to get into a state where it's &lt;strong&gt;impossible to tell&lt;/strong&gt; whether the game is in an infinite loop or not :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not very easy. But it's possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to set up the game state to be executing the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toothycat.net/~hologram/Turing/HowItWorks.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Universal Turing Machine&lt;/a&gt;. Program the Turing machine to calculate one of the great unsolved problems in mathematics, perhaps to ask whether there are any &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfect_number#Odd_perfect_numbers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;odd perfect numbers&lt;/a&gt; and halt the machine if it finds any. This game can therefore only end if there does exist an odd perfect number (which will have to be at least 10^1500). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's clearest if you get the game running the version that uses Omen Machine so that all players have no choice whatsoever about their actions (not even any &quot;may&quot; abilities). But the version on that website will do, because the only player with &quot;may&quot; abilities is Alex and he's the player who stands to win if the calculation ever finishes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A judge can accuse a player of stalling if they're just taking an indefinite infinite loop. But in this case Alex could win the game if the computation (the huge array of Yeti and Zombie tokens) ever discovers a number with the particular set of characteristics you've programmed the machine to look for...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="234" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T19:46:36.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24731" CreationDate="2015-06-21T20:08:32.523" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always taken this rule to mean that the die would go to the next lock in order of appearance. I've assumed that if you resolved the other adventures/monsters that would lock the die, they would just disappear. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; FAQ on Fantasy Flight Games website where they don't even mention this &quot;order&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T20:08:32.523" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24744" CreationDate="2015-06-21T23:52:16.597" Score="5" ViewCount="987" Body="&lt;p&gt;Description of situation: A player's turn begins and they draw the last card from the deck and get a Wizard. The use the Wizard on the other player which forces them to discard their hand and redraw it. There are no more cards to draw. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way my group played is that the player who has to redraw is automatically eliminated because they must first &quot;discard&quot; to get rid of their hand, but no card to draw means they will not have a card for the final showdown.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6122" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:03:01.857" Title="Using Wizard on another player when draw deck is empty?" Tags="|love-letter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18656" CreationDate="2015-06-21T23:53:11.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three way direct trades are against the rules. Bob and Carol and each trade with Alice but they can't involve each other. But they wanted to do a three way trade. Bob and Carol could trade with Alice and then on Carol's turn she can continue the deal with Bob and Alice but she's under no obligation game wise to keep the deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T23:53:11.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6217" CreationDate="2015-06-21T23:55:13.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. However if that active player is desperate they are able to donate the cards. in a &quot;free trade&quot;. As long as someone is willing to take them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-21T23:55:13.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24730" CreationDate="2015-06-22T00:00:40.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;that's basically it. The game is about being convincing. You have to pick an option and stick with it. Convincing everyone that you're telling the truth. There's not enough information to do much more than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:00:40.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24740" CreationDate="2015-06-22T00:03:01.857" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules. A single card is to be removed from the deck at the start of each round. This removal serves two purposes. The first is to remove perfect information. So that in the final rounds you can deduce the likely card your opponents have but not necessarily with 100% certainty. The second is to be used in situations like you describe. If you need to draw a card for the final action that card is the card which was removed from the game. Then you compare numbers and establish a winner of the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:03:01.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24690" CreationDate="2015-06-22T00:54:12.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are just enough plot cards for about 6-7 rounds (if i recall correctly). As the game only lasts a maximum of five rounds those extra cards are mostly for variety. The rules state that you only give them to the first leader of any round. Subsequent leaders do not get plot cards to distribute. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:54:12.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24688" CreationDate="2015-06-22T00:57:02.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a slight advantage to &lt;em&gt;The Resistance&lt;/em&gt; but the plot cards mostly just throw a monkey wrench into the pattern of the game. When you play a game like this repeatedly, you as a group can fall into the same rhythm. Plot cards are designed to interrupt that rhythm. They cause the game to have more chaos and that chaos can in theory help both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T00:57:02.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24646" CreationDate="2015-06-22T01:00:27.370" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're typically limited to one action per turn but you are allowed to play multiple actions on a single base. If you have the cards you can even play multiple of the same action on a single base. The only thing that would inhibit this is if a minion, base or action prevented actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T01:00:27.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24748" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24757" CreationDate="2015-06-22T01:15:00.350" Score="3" ViewCount="1027" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the Robber can be placed upon the Lake hex in a normal &quot;Fishermen of Catan&quot; game. (see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/336119/blocking-fishing-hexes-fishermen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when you combine it with Seafarers, does anyone know the official answer for either of these two questions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) When you place the pirate on a sea tile that borders land, does it stop any fish production that the tile would produce?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) Can you place the &lt;em&gt;robber&lt;/em&gt; on a sea tile with fish production?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the answer, please link to an official source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T12:46:47.860" Title="Does the Pirate stop fish production when playing Seafarers with Fishermen of Catan?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|catan-traders-and-barbarians|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24012" CreationDate="2015-06-22T01:49:31.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One &lt;em&gt;clarification&lt;/em&gt; of the rules regards moving ships. In the 4th edition Seafarers Rulebook, there was a poor translation which made some people think that you could not ever move the ship that is closest to a homeport (i.e. you could never divorce a settlement and its first ship). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 4th edition rules stated:&#xA;&lt;em&gt;&quot;You may only move the ship that is at the end of the shipping route that is not connected to the “homeport” for that route.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catan's product manager, Sebastian Rapp, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/19573421#19573421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;clarified&lt;/a&gt; that this was a miscommunication. The wording in the 5th edition Seafarers rulebook has been updated with a new diagram to clarify the rule: &lt;strong&gt;A ship MAY be moved such that a settlement exists without a ship or a road attached.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/g92am.png&quot; alt=&quot;Seafarers 5th edition rulebook on moving ships&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12532" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T01:49:31.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24750" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24849" CreationDate="2015-06-22T02:36:59.397" Score="1" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I recently started playing a&amp;amp;a 1941. I played the germans which attacked Caucasus then my friend started moving in units from other territories into Caucasus to defend. Can you do that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T00:51:24.170" Title="Can land and sea units adjacent to the territory or sea zone being attacked ( also units range permitting) move in and help defend?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25409" CreationDate="2015-06-22T02:50:08.063" Score="1" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in Karelia with a couple of infantry and tanks. The german territories are heavily fortified. I don't want to lose what few units I have. Do I have to conduct combat or can I skip to noncombat move phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T15:15:13.473" Title="Is the combat move and the conduct combat phase always necessary to execute?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T03:18:15.737" Score="2" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends an I were playing a&amp;amp;a 1941 and soviet union wanted to mobilize units in India. Is that ever allowed? If yes, when? I read through the whole book and I did not find anything about when you can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T19:28:34.617" Title="Mobilization of units allowed on a territory with an industrial complex controlled by a power on same side?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24760" CreationDate="2015-06-22T03:42:29.603" Score="1" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do I capture them? (besides tanks blitzing). That would not work if im trying to capture an island. Just move in with a bunch of infantry and claim it for myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:50:17.213" Title="How to capture unoccupied enemy-controlled territories?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24761" CreationDate="2015-06-22T04:03:52.797" Score="1" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;Germany attacks England with transports(loaded with infantry) and overland fighters, captures the territory. Can the fighters stay in England or need to fly back to mainland?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T14:01:35.990" Title="After an amphibious assault can overland attacking aircraft stay in newly captured territory?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T06:14:41.510" Score="5" ViewCount="1171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group's been playing Magic since mid-2013, and Commander 2013 since a while after that. A couple of us are keen on building our own commander decks now. We're aware the Commander format can easily be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; powerful, and that different groups vary from decks that finish within a few turns to those that easily last 15-20 turns (like the C13 decks do). We're having some trouble working out how to gear our decks to be at a suitable power level for our table's current meta.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can tell when a card's just going to outright break things and be un-fun. However, we encounter fairly powerful cards and we're not sure if they're &lt;em&gt;too powerful,&lt;/em&gt; or OK because it's just what that deck does, or maybe it should be considered a bomb like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSerra%20Avatar%5d&quot;&gt;Serra Avatar&lt;/a&gt;. Is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPontiff%20of%20Blight%5d&quot;&gt;Pontiff of Blight&lt;/a&gt; too powerful or just right in our C13-based environment (pay a few {W/B}, cause life loss and get 3-4 life for each mana spent this way because multiplayer) — how do we tell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do Commander groups usually work this out? Are there design standards available? Is there a well-defined tier list that can guide our deck construction? What do people go by to ensure they match their game's meta effectively without breaking it? Or is it just done by feel and experimentation and group moderation of &amp;quot;don't use that card, it won't be fun for us, use this one instead maybe&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a subjective question, this will be governed by the Stack's &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.stackoverflow.com/2010/09/good-subjective-bad-subjective/&quot;&gt;Good Subjective, Bad Subjective&lt;/a&gt; guidelines and the subjective questions guidance offered at the bottom of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask&quot;&gt;this help page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means answers need to adhere to the &lt;strong&gt;back it up principle:&lt;/strong&gt; your solution must be accompanied by based on either something that happened to you personally, or something you can back up with a reference. In general that means &lt;strong&gt;cite direct experience (your own or someone else's)&lt;/strong&gt; that demonstrates the effectiveness of solutions you provide. A solution that comes with no experience of its effectiveness is low quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:47:45.783" Title="How can I ensure the Commander deck I'm creating is appropriate for my group's meta?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="18" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24748" CreationDate="2015-06-22T12:46:47.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of Settlers expansion combinations, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;catan&lt;/a&gt; official website really is a one-stop-shop. They have a combination listing for Seafarers and Fishermen, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/combinations/fishermen-catan-seafarers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It says a few things about fishing and ships, but not about the pirate blocking fishing spots. Based on that alone, I'd say the pirate does not block fishing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that doesn't do it for you, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/666638/seafarers-fishermen-can-pirate-disable-coastal-fis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; about the same subject has a reply from a Kosmos representative (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/news/2010-01-14/how-do-you-actually-become-product-manager-for-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sebastian Rapp&lt;/a&gt;), saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Officially speaking: The pirate does not block fishing grounds. He just does what the rules say: He steals a resource and disables placing/moving ships at the borders of his hex.&#xA;  Everything else, like blocking harbors or blocking fishing grounds are variants, some officially mentioned, some not. So it is up to the players whether they want to play with such a variant or without.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your b) question, I'm pretty sure you can't place the robber on sea hexes. Since you can put boats on it, it's a sea hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T12:46:47.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24756" CreationDate="2015-06-22T13:04:05.487" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmmm the problem I see with this is that in my experience a player makes a commander deck he enjoys, he doesn't change it according to the group or the group makes a deck which can match his, this would take a lot of fun out of the proces of owning your own commander deck of 100 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are buyable premade commander decks. In my experience they are neither good nor bad and  can be played against each other as long as they come from the same set. I've done this once with some friends, we all bought the new commander decks and played once with them so we could figure out the flaws and then we made changes we deemed necessary to make a deck which could actually fight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next to that there are commander staples cards. &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/content/forum-topic/3738086&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; forum topic gives a list of all commander staples. I would say that you can build a lot of decks with these cards and cards you deem necessary for a commander deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a commander deck is mostly build around it's commander. So how a deck is build mostly depends on the commander (although I know of cases where the commander is only used to provide colours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T13:04:05.487" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24756" CreationDate="2015-06-22T13:37:19.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think group moderation is the way to go.  Build the deck you want to play.  If there are cards that look particularly brutal, maybe ask your group about them ahead of time.  Otherwise, just play, and if something happens that ruins the fun for everyone, then adjust as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to keep games from feeling &quot;samey&quot; every time, you could ban cards that let you search your deck for a specific card.  That way, even if someone has a bomb, they'll probably only see it in about 25% of games.  Also, keep in mind that Commander is intended to be multi-player.  If someone has a particularly powerful deck, they should expect the other players to all be targetting them.  It is difficult for even a strong deck to take on multiple players at once consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T13:37:19.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24754" CreationDate="2015-06-22T13:54:39.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can capture an unoccupied enemy terrority either by blitzing through it (as you mentioned in the question) or by moving a land unit into the territory.  It is treated as a combat move and is essentially as if you are fighting a battle against zero defenders (which you automatically win)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T13:54:39.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24755" CreationDate="2015-06-22T14:01:35.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attacking aircraft can never land in a newly captured territory.  Being an amphibious assault does not change this rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fighters need to return to a territory that was friendly since the beginning of the turn.  Note that if the aircraft return to a land territory, it does not need to be the same one that they departed from.  Fighters can also choose to land on an aircraft carrier.  A single carrier can support two fighter planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T14:01:35.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24756" CreationDate="2015-06-22T14:56:11.663" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's one thing you can learn from Mark Rosewater's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/board-education-khans-tarkir-2015-06-15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Making Magic&quot; articles (check out the section on &quot;Empires&quot;)&lt;/a&gt;, it's that &lt;strong&gt;the best way to find out if a deck is unfair and/or miserable is to play it.&lt;/strong&gt; This may seem like something you could shortcut, but card evaluation is really hard, and cards or decks that seem oppressive at first glance may turn out to be actually really fun and exciting; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/HB1ZRwquhbg?t=43m55&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;vice versa&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing here is to have a group happy to communicate that your deck is stopping them having fun, and to be able to tell which deck it is that's doing it. The best way to tell this is the same way you'd analyse anything; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.sciencebuddies.org/science-fair-projects/project_experiment_fair_test.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;change one thing and see what happens&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if everyone turns up with a new deck, and one can't compete, one's horrifically broken, and one just feels like it could be fair if the removal suite in the opposing decks were different, you change the broken one, and see how it fits. If you change all of them, suddenly you could get massive swings against the &quot;could be fair&quot; which you weren't expecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, be aware that if your deck is requiring people to significantly adapt their decks to deal with it, then even though it seems fair, it's actually warping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another issue is play skill; for example, Black Lotus is an entirely reasonable card as long as you're using it to ramp into Centaur Courser on turn 1. The deck may seem reasonable, and then suddenly stop being reasonable in the hands of a more experienced player. So it's worth agreeing that, just because a deck was fine originally, it could now be time to retire it as it starts to cause issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T18:47:45.783" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:47:45.783" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22610" CreationDate="2015-06-22T14:59:58.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, fighting for fields in an important part of the game and you should devote a percentage of your meeples to this task.  Using 2 meeples at minimum for fields will help you diversify your strategy.  Be sure to wait until about a third of the  game to lay your pieces down in fields so that you can get an idea of what your opponents' strategies are before committing too early or too late.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing that you have set aside pieces for this strategy will keep you from feeling pressured about laying those meeples down or not.  It will also distract from other strategies you may be pursuing, like building cities or roads.  I would especially keep one or two meeples ready for fields as the game gets close to finishing as those may be the ones that secure the fields for you as your opponents scramble to complete cities and roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12541" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T14:59:58.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24792" CreationDate="2015-06-22T15:24:07.613" Score="1" ViewCount="1391" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a beginner I got axis and allies 1941 and noticed the game has only 4 dice and very few pieces. I had to use a lot of substitution chips (they can get confusing) and make my own paper slips with the units name on them. Where can I buy additional units and dice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T04:07:19.923" Title="Where can combat dice and extra units be bought?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24767" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T16:26:50.147" Score="2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a&amp;amp;a 1941 if japan conducts an amphibious assault on soviet far east can she capture it? If yes, then does she still put the controller marker and does nothing else? (I mean no adding anything to japans national production chart since the territory of soviet far east does not have any number printed on it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T17:46:44.960" Title="How to capture territories with no numbers printed on them?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T16:50:29.493" Score="2" ViewCount="2305" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an English sub attacks a German sub (by itself in a sea zone), can the German sub submerge? From my understanding subs can only conduct a surprise strike or submerge if there are other sea units (besides subs) in the sea zone with it, and only if the attacking and defending players both have submarines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T15:56:41.667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T05:46:34.150" Title="Can a sub attack a lone sub in axis and allies and the attacked sub submerge?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24756" CreationDate="2015-06-22T17:01:48.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other suggestions here like getting feedback from your fellow players as you play, you can do a couple free-for-all games.  In my play group that is mostly what we do and it's pretty easy to see who has the best board position at any given time (we all usually start conspiring to hurt that player's board, he is getting constantly attacked, etc.).  If the deck you play is constantly garnering hate from the other players, your deck may be over-powered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: one of my friends has a few EDH decks, including one that uses Gisela, Blade of Goldnight as his commander.  When that deck comes out, we all know that while the game may technically be a free-for-all, it is really everyone vs. him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If people are constantly feeling threatened by you deck so much so that you constantly have a target on your head, you probably need to dial it back a bit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: being in a good position is part of the game and key to winning.  It is when you are in a good or great position a disproportionate amount of the time that it becomes a problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T17:01:48.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19182" CreationDate="2015-06-22T17:36:17.893" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do both.  Here's a thing being over looked i think.  If you are at your 10 coin limit, you can still reserve and get the gold (if available) or draw tokens.  You rlthen have to put tokens back to be at your ten token limit.  Also you can't reserve more than three cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12989" LastActivityDate="2015-06-22T17:36:17.893" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-22T19:27:12.213" Score="0" ViewCount="2100" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some games (like Chutes and Ladders) have a single track that players move along by rolling a die to see how far they travel.  (These are often called roll-and-move games.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the spaces on a roll-and-move board are typically blank, just stepping stones on your way to the goal.  Other spaces are &lt;em&gt;action&lt;/em&gt; spaces, where something happens when you land there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there common theories for how a designer decides which spaces should be action spaces?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of the type of board I'm talking about: my own game &lt;em&gt;Space-Venture&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NRlif.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Space Venture Board&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12990" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T12:14:42.503" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T12:22:45.010" Title="Roll-and-Move Board Design" Tags="|game-design|game-development|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-06-24T20:21:27.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24777" CreationDate="2015-06-23T12:10:28.363" Score="4" ViewCount="89" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game the other day we came up in a situation where the blue player ended up in a complex situation:&#xA;He had selected the player board ability that lets him take the board action and also attack ghosts on the same turn. He took the board action that was to move a player, then a ghost. He moved a ghost to his own player board, and thereafter wanted to attack the ghost he moved. Then we realized that the ghost he moved was a ghost that blocks the player from using his player board ability. At this point, we ruled that he could not attack, as he had lost the player board ability in the middle of his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could argue that in most cases the player could have attacked first, then moved the ghost - but in this case he wanted to attack the ghost that was moved, and he could not reach it before it was moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We could not find a clarification for this. Did we rule it correctly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:40:19.130" Title="Losing the player board ability in the middle of the turn" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24771" CreationDate="2015-06-23T12:22:45.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're looking at games like Monopoly or Chutes and Ladders, you're looking for fairness and equality.  Everyone is at the mercy of the dice, and you should take the dice you roll (and the probability of something happening) into account when you roll them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking Monopoly, for instance, you have spaces that are your usual spaces (which are your property tiles).  When making a game with that in mind, and the fact that you want something to happen every now and then, you should space things out so the chance that someone will land on an action space is even enough.  A roll of a 1d6 (one six sided die) is going to be much more different then 2d6.  In fact, a 2d6 is going to be even more wildly different then a 1d12, since a 1d12 is all consistent (given the die isn't weighted) while 2d6 will produce more 7's than anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to also weigh in on if you want both negative and positive effects, only negative effects, how bad those are, ect...  This all plays into how 'randomly' your spaces are hit.  And, again, I will stress that the players have to be treated fairly in this regard.  Since they cannot choose a path or how many spaces they move, you remove the tactical and strategic thinking from that aspect of the game.  If it's something simple, like a child's game, then this makes sense.  If it's more of an advanced game, you need to bake some tactics or decision making into the event spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T12:22:45.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2015-06-23T16:20:38.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes a massive difference to use the contingency planner to allow you to have two goes at the Commercial Travel Ban. Use the New Assignment to change a player to contingency planner if he is not one of your starters. You can then use his ability to re-use New Assignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12997" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T15:21:30.917" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T15:21:30.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24774" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:30:38.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It may happen that a Taoist loses his  power because of a ghost&#xA;  ability. He can recover it as soon as the  responsible ghost is&#xA;  removed from his board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find anything in the rules that explicitly states when you lose your power, but I would assume that if you get them back instantly, that you can lose them instantly as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the symbol on the ghost card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As long as  this ghost is not defeated,  the power of the board  where&#xA;  the ghost card has been placed cannot be used (place an  Inactive&#xA;  Power token on the power stone of the board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though this symbol might be in the immediate actions part of the ghost card, it is a ongoing effect that transfers to a new board when it is moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The blue Taoist can act in a heartbeat. He may request villager’s help&#xA;  AND attempt an exorcism in the  same turn, in any order&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't explicit either about when exactly your power is used. If the blue player's power is such that the use of the power occurs before the attempted exorcism, or the use of a village tile, than I would say that you can in fact still do both actions. But this seems to be a strange interpretation to me. Since every player in the game can already can use a village tile on their turn, I would interpret the use of the blue Taoist's power to be when he tries to exorcise a ghost after having already used a village tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, I agree with your interpretation that you cannot attempt an exorcism because you need to use your power in order to attempt an exorcism after having already used a village tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3324" LastEditorUserId="3324" LastEditDate="2015-06-23T20:40:19.130" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:40:19.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24783" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:38:42.173" Score="4" ViewCount="1215" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that if you are buried, you can take no other action until you dig yourself out. The jetpack card says &quot;play at any time&quot;. Does playing a jetpack count as an action for the purposes of following the rules (albeit a free one), or do &quot;play at any time&quot; cards circumvent all action restrictions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12999" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T21:59:33.793" Title="Is it allowed to play a jetpack when buried?" Tags="|forbidden-desert|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24779" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:45:22.560" Score="0" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;faq&lt;/a&gt; says that Mandy Thompson's ability should read &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per day, after any player has rolled, Mandy may re- roll 2 dice before determining if the active player was able to defeat a task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual card says &quot;complete&quot; instead of &quot;defeat&quot;, so what is the reason for the errata claiming it should say &quot;defeat&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T14:45:37.853" Title="In Elder Sign, what is the distinction between completing and defeating a task?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24778" CreationDate="2015-06-23T20:52:41.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the card explicitly allows being played at any time, and cards trump general rules, I would say yes, you can play it when buried.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thematically, buried obviously doesn't mean your entire body is covered in sand, it just means you can't move effectively due to the amount of sand.  A jetpack cancels out needing to worry about the amount of sand. =)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T20:52:41.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24785" CreationDate="2015-06-23T21:08:04.690" Score="6" ViewCount="3020" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played regular Resistance and I have Resistance Avalon, but I've never played Resistance Coup is it worth getting? I like that you can play with just 2 people but, besides that I don't know much about it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T04:30:21.973" Title="Is resistance Coup worth getting if I already have resistance avalon?" Tags="|the-resistance|the-resistance-avalon|coup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24782" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T21:54:21.313" Score="4" ViewCount="6155" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Cribbage, if I played a 7, and my opponent played an 8, (making a 15 for 2 points), can I then play a 6 for a run of three, or do they have to be in consecutive order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13000" LastEditorUserId="10016" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T01:24:11.857" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T01:24:11.857" Title="Counting runs during play" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-24T11:54:30.923" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24778" CreationDate="2015-06-23T21:59:33.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A rules faq on boardgamegeek &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1127034/rules-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; says you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes. While a buried player cannot take any action other than removing sand, using equipment doesn't take an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T21:59:33.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24781" CreationDate="2015-06-23T22:11:17.593" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coup is a distinctly different game. Whether it is &quot;worth&quot; getting depends on many subjective things. You might consider wording your question differently to ask about the differences to minimize the chance it gets closed for being too subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, coup is a bluffing game where you use any and all powers of 5 characters in the entire deck to increase your wealth and remove cards from your opponents.  You can at any time use any character's power but can also be challenged (called out for lying) and end up losing a card yourself. It is essentially a bluffing and deduction game with no team aspect like Resistance has. I would suggest trying it to get a different experience from those of Resistance and Werewolf. You need to form your bluffing plan early and carefully work toward your endgame or you quickly end up in positions where someone is headed straight for a win &lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you call him out, in which case he likely has the card he claims to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-23T22:11:17.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24781" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:44:25.793" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to post an additional, though not entirely different answer to Joey's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coup is a completely different game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key distinguishing elements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coup has no co-operative element like The Resistance does, it's entirely out for yourself and trying to outlive all the other players. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coup is a very short game - games can be over in 30 seconds (for two people) to 10 minutes for a long game. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coup can be played by 2-6 people. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion Coup is a very good addition to your board game collection. For its price and size, it's an easy game to add. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically - Coup is a &lt;em&gt;very good warm up game&lt;/em&gt;.  While everybody is getting settled, or you are waiting for people to arrive, you can play a few games of coup.  The rules are nice and simple, most people understand them after one short game. Because the games are so short, it doesn't matter if someone arrives half way through, because they can just join the next game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T04:30:21.973" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T04:30:21.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-23T23:52:17.870" Score="13" ViewCount="1770" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't quite like Pandemic for a simple reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically - because all players have the same knowledge, and same goal,  I don't see the need to have multiple players; one person (the alpha player) can just make all the decisions for everyone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the rules say that you're not allowed to show your cards to each other, but you can just communicate this to each other anyway, and so because this rule is pretty much useless we just play that everybody's cards are visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unlike a co-operative game like Hanabi, where you have assymetrical knowledge, and there are very specific rules about what you can tell your team mates, there's no reason why one person (me!) can't just make all the decisions in Pandemic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now of course you can argue that it's 'not in the spirit of the game' and appeal to some kind of social conventions to mitigate this, but this can be  more difficult in practise when you want to win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any fun suggestions for mitigating this issue? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T00:48:31.203" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T01:36:03.723" Title="How do I mitigate 'alpha playing' in Pandemic?" Tags="|house-rules|pandemic|hanabi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24788" CreationDate="2015-06-24T00:41:50.510" Score="22" ViewCount="13516" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/ori/cards/starfieldofnyx.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Starfield of Nyx&lt;/a&gt; has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you control five or more enchantments, each other non-Aura enchantment you control is a creature in addition to its other types and has base power and base toughness equal to its converted mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heliod%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Sun&quot;&gt;Heliod, God of the Sun&lt;/a&gt;, for example, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your devotion to white is less than five, Heliod isn't a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are Heliod's characteristics in the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My devotion to white is &lt;strong&gt;less than 5&lt;/strong&gt; and I control &lt;strong&gt;fewer than 5 enchantments&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My devotion to white is &lt;strong&gt;less than 5&lt;/strong&gt; and I control &lt;strong&gt;at least 5 enchantments&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My devotion to white is &lt;strong&gt;at least 5&lt;/strong&gt; and I control &lt;strong&gt;fewer than 5 enchantments&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My devotion to white is &lt;strong&gt;at least 5&lt;/strong&gt; and I control &lt;strong&gt;at least 5 enchantments&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this change depending on the order in which Starfield of Nyx and Heliod enter the battlefield, or any other ordering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T22:18:20.330" Title="How does Starfield of Nyx interact with the Theros Gods?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24787" CreationDate="2015-06-24T00:41:50.510" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general idea is that each ability is either &quot;on&quot; or &quot;off&quot; depending on whether its &quot;as long as&quot; clause is satisfied, so we just apply the abilities that are &quot;on&quot; to Heliod's base characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Situation 1. (Devotion &amp;lt; 5, enchantments &amp;lt; 5.)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, Heliod's &quot;as long as&quot; condition is true and Starfield's is false, so the only relevant active effect from those cards is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heliod isn't a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Heliod is just a White Enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Situation 2. (Devotion &amp;lt; 5, enchantments ≥ 5.)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, both &quot;as long as&quot; conditions are true, so the following effects are active for Heliod:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heliod isn't a creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Heliod] is a creature in addition to its other types and has base power and base toughness equal to its converted mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only one of these situations in which timestamp matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both relevant abilities here are static abilities that generate continuous effects. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_Continuous_Effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 613.6a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the order in which we apply these effects depends on the order in which the permanents entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Heliod enters first&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we apply Heliod's effect first. So we apply the effects as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Layer 3, Heliod's ability makes it not a creature, then Starfield's ability makes it a creature. The result is that Heliod is a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Layer 7b, Starfields' ability sets Heliod's base power and toughness to 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So,  Heliod is a White 4/4 God Enchantment Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Starfield enters first&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, we apply Starfield's effect first. So we apply the effects as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Layer 3, Starfield's ability makes Heliod a creature, then Heliod's ability makes it not a creature. The result is that Heliod is not a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Layer 7b, Starfield's ability sets Heliod's base power and toughness to 4, but that doesn't matter because Heliod is not a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Heliod is again just a White Enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Situation 3. (Devotion ≥ 5, enchantments &amp;lt; 5.)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, neither &quot;as long as&quot; condition is true. So, Heliod has its base characteristics, and it is a 5/6 White God Enchantment Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Situation 4. (Devotion ≥ 5, enchantments ≥ 5.)&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, only Starfield's &quot;as long as&quot; condition is true, so the only active effect on Heliod is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Heliod] is a creature in addition to its other types and has base power and base toughness equal to its converted mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Starfield redundantly makes Heliod a Creature and sets its base power and toughness to 4. The end result is that Heliod is a 4/4 White God Enchantment Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, if you replace Starfield of Nyx with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOpalescence%5d&quot;&gt;Opalescence&lt;/a&gt;, situations 2 and 4 apply in exactly the same way. If you replace Heliod with a regular (non-God) enchantment creature, situations 3 and 4 apply in exactly the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T22:18:20.330" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T22:18:20.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24782" CreationDate="2015-06-24T01:22:16.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.com/card-games/rule/cribbage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;site&lt;/a&gt; Yes it is a run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Cards are played in this order: 9, 6, 8, 7. The dealer pegs 2 for fifteen when he plays the six and pegs 4 for run when he plays the seven (the 6, 7, 8, 9 sequence). The cards were not played in sequential order, but they form a true run with no foreign card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have seen written rules by Hoyle where they are required to be played in order, but every single web site I looked at allow for them to be out of order as long as they aren't interrupted with non-run cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T01:22:16.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24786" CreationDate="2015-06-24T01:36:03.723" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course this can happen, but the expectation is that all the players help contribute to finding solutions to the current problems.  While you might see one path, someone else might see another, that happens to be better.  Having multiple people working on the same problem from different perspectives generally provides better results.  Kind of like crowd sourcing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tend to like games where I win or lose entirely by my performance, but I play games with people that like cooperative games like pandemic and Legendary. When we win it usually takes all of us thinking through the possible scenarios and agreeing on a course of action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your situation, if you tend to be the direction of all the movements, then I would suggest people don't share their cards by default, giving them an angle to make suggestions from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T01:36:03.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24791" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T03:00:40.857" Score="1" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was playing in a standard tournament for fun the other day, I was playing red white black mardu warriors against white blue control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crackling%20Doom&quot;&gt;Crackling Doom&lt;/a&gt; forcing him to sacrifice his only creature after he assigned his blocker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He responded to my Crackling Doom by playing an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anticipate&quot;&gt;Anticipate&lt;/a&gt;. He then proceeded to look at the top three cards, took one (which was a counterspell or something, whatever it was, it countered my Crackling Doom), he said that he could play it on the stack after having drawn it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said that he couldn't, but he proceeded to tell me like 3 times it was on the stack, but he didn't believe me. Doesn't the Anticipate have to resolve before he can even look at his top three cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13002" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T03:48:17.510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T04:25:50.897" Title="Anticipate in response to instant" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24765" CreationDate="2015-06-24T04:07:19.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are various places you can shop online for spare pieces.  One such location is at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Axis-Allies-1941-2012_c_196.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.historicalboardgaming.com/Axis-Allies-1941-2012_c_196.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, simply getting an additional copy of the game from a yard sale might be more cost effective at times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for dice, to my knowledge they are standard d6 with a special symbol in place of the 1, but functionally they are the same otherwise.  I have been very pleased with the quality of dice from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessex.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.chessex.com/&lt;/a&gt; and I regularly visit their booth at conventions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T04:07:19.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24791" CreationDate="2015-06-24T04:19:56.070" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;He can do that. And Anticipate &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have to resolve before he can look at his top 3 cards. When he played Anticipate in response to your Crackling Doom, it went on top of the stack, with Crackling Doom under it. The stack resolves from top to bottom, so his Anticipate would resolve first. After it resolves, he still has a chance to cast more instants while Crackling Doom is still on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the specific steps that happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have priority; you cast Crackling Doom. You pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He has priority. He casts Anticipate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You both pass priority, causing the top spell on the stack to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After Anticipate resolves, you as the active player get priority again. You could cast an instant here; in this case you pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He has priority, he casts an instant that he got from Anticipate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You both pass priority, causing his new instant to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You both pass priority again. If Crackling Doom is still on the stack (if his spell isn't a counter spell), NOW Crackling Doom resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific rules about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player's mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.4. If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T04:25:50.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:11:09.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My longtime strategy for Germany is to build a massive amount of tanks and destroy Russia.  The point at which the Allies can start seriously imposing on Germany's IPC production starts between rounds 2 and 3, depending on how good of Allied coordination you are facing.  Thus, you have 2-3 rounds of uninterrupted Russia pummeling.  During that time, you can build a substantial amount of German armor to take Russia head on.  They cannot match you armor for armor, as you hold IPC dominance from them.  Even if Japan doesn't assist, you can still attack them force-for-force.  I try and use German naval forces and aircraft to take out as much of the UK fleet as possible, then regroup them and hold tight.  40 IPC means 8 tanks and counting as you take land in Russia.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Russia can do two things: &#xA;1) try and attack you, which they will take ground; but ultimately lose as Germany has more tank reinforcements than they can muster.&#xA;2) defend for dear life and hope help comes, which means they will lose as the German tank invasion is too powerful for them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once Russia is a crater, focus all of your buying power on a anti-UK fleet and destroy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must also mention that I fortify the western and southern European wall with my starting infantry and fighters.  Too many people take these defensive forces into battle to their peril.  Focus on one threat at a time, allocate all of your resources without sacrificing the west, then annihilate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13006" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T13:11:09.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24797" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24825" CreationDate="2015-06-24T13:56:52.130" Score="14" ViewCount="22714" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like Greyjoy have a massive disadvantage. No special orders, so no mustering. When the cards for possible mustering or bidding on the tracks came up, other players declined those options. So as Greyjoy, I had no possible way of replacing any losses. Whilst my neighbours kept mustering more and more units. Resulting in an inevitable overwhelming attack. Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know they have an early advantage, the +1 sword and win on combat ties, but this is eclipsed by the fact others can field more, and stronger, units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5242" LastActivityDate="2022-04-23T20:28:07.200" Title="How to win with Greyjoy in Game of Thrones board game?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24894" CreationDate="2015-06-24T14:22:24.250" Score="1" ViewCount="943" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what ways do people find using the Arkham Horror Toolkit reduces the play time, and how much does it further enhance or detract from the experience? I can imagine one negative is that it simply isn't as fun to tap a screen as it is to draw a physical card and roll dice, but a significant saving in time spent would be nice. Just how much does it make a difference, and are there other benefits or downsides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T22:57:54.463" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T16:00:11.263" Title="In what ways does the Arkham Horror Toolkit app improve or detract from the experience?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2015-06-24T15:59:39.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason for the difference is tied to concept of blinds, which are simply mandatory initial bets to ensure there is some money at play for every hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regular rounds (of three or more players), the small blind (one seat to the left of the button/dealer) is effectively the first bet (the small blind amount) and the big blind (two seats to the left of the button/dealer) is effectively the first raise doubling the first bet (to the big blind amount).  Everyone else must at least call the big blind amount or fold, and the dealer is the advantaged position by going last and has the option to fold with no money played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the heads-up showdown (two players left), the dealer is still the advantaged position because the dealer only has the small blind committed at the outset of the hand, whereas the other player is already in with the big blind.  Thus, even though the dealer &quot;goes first&quot; technically, it is the other player who has effectively &quot;gone first&quot; because they are in the pot with more money (the big blind) and the dealer can still fold without having to meet the big blind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Net result, because of the unique rules for heads-up play, is that the dealer is &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; the advantaged position, and that would not be preserved otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13007" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T15:59:39.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24805" CreationDate="2015-06-24T19:39:25.947" Score="-1" ViewCount="226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am interested in board games which can be play through a period of time, e.g. one turn per day. The most typical is chess, there are a few websites including www.chess.com. Then recently I been playing at arimaa.com which is a game similar to chess and has a postal option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anybody knows of any other board game which can be play online and have the same functionality?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13009" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T04:06:18.660" Title="Postal board games out there besides chess" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-06-25T08:10:15.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24801" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-24T20:00:21.980" Score="0" ViewCount="93" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quick question, can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Smallpox&quot;&gt;Smallpox&lt;/a&gt; and choose to sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Strip%20Mine&quot;&gt;Strip Mine&lt;/a&gt; but in response sacrifice Strip Mine to use it's effect too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13010" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-24T20:03:44.570" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T20:03:44.570" Title="Magic The Gathering can this combo be done?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-06-24T20:22:35.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24800" CreationDate="2015-06-24T22:44:56.520" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;People play Diplomacy in that manner.  It give you lots of times to contact other people to make deals with them between submitting your moves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2015-06-24T22:44:56.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24823" CreationDate="2015-06-25T00:17:38.523" Score="8" ViewCount="1196" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most variants of Mahjong with restrictions on when a player can complete their hand off a discarded tile (especially Japanese Mahjong with &lt;em&gt;furiten&lt;/em&gt;), the English rules refer to the situation as a &quot;sacred discard&quot;. This confuses me, because the kanji etymology for furiten (振聴) seems to mean something more like &quot;thrown-away tenpai&quot; (as in 振り聴牌, &lt;em&gt;furi-tenpai&lt;/em&gt;), and no other variant that I know of has a specific word for it like Japanese does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where did the term &quot;sacred discard&quot; come from, in that case? Was it just a culturally interpretive term invented by English-speaking players? Or does this term actually exist in some variant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3543" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T17:10:10.463" Title="Where does the term &quot;sacred discard&quot; come from?" Tags="|mahjong|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24800" CreationDate="2015-06-25T03:31:15.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://game.asup.co.uk/login.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; links to an online automated port of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27/supremacy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Supremacy&lt;/a&gt; with long turn timers (upwards of 72 hours to my knowledge, all player's turns occur simultaneously).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T03:31:15.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24800" CreationDate="2015-06-25T04:06:18.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other strategy board games also have things like this. If you like Chess, you might also enjoy Go. Here is a link to an online website where you can play correspondence Go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://online-go.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://online-go.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, what you are looking for are correspondence games, so here is a website with a bunch of these games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gamesbyemail.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T04:06:18.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24808" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:37:26.107" Score="7" ViewCount="25864" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Forge last night and the computer brought out &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wall%20of%20Denial&quot;&gt;Wall of Denial&lt;/a&gt;.  What an annoying wall!  Is there any way to destroy it other than attacking with a big creature and having the wall block the creature.  It says it can't be the target of spells or abilities.  Any other ways to destroy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9806" LastEditorUserId="9806" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T19:09:49.930" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T18:48:37.340" Title="Ways to remove creatures with Shroud" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24806" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:50:28.777" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just the usual answers to shroud/hexproof, including board wipes like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253512&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt; and spells that don't have the word &lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt; in them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you already have removal in your deck, you might want to sideboard in &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389430&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arcane Lighthouse&lt;/a&gt;, which is useful for being able to get rid of shroud/hexproof creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7314" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T15:50:28.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24806" CreationDate="2015-06-25T15:50:43.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are. A creature with shroud can't be the target of spells or abilities, but it still can be effected by ones that don't target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples are ones that destroy all creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, deals enough damage to all creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasphemous%20Act&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt;, or gives all creatures -X/-X like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389442&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common way of dealing with shrouded creatures is by forcing its controller to sacrifice it with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diabolic%20Edict&quot;&gt;Diabolic Edict&lt;/a&gt;, though this require them to only have one creature, or want to keep their other creatures more than the wall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also remove shroud from the wall either with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcane%20Lighthouse&quot;&gt;Arcane Lighthouse&lt;/a&gt; or cards that remove all abilities without targeting like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383351&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymorphist's Jest&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also give smaller creatures that it blocks deathtouch with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coat%20with%20Venom&quot;&gt;Coat with Venom&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T17:16:05.827" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T17:16:05.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-25T17:38:52.917" Score="6" ViewCount="9180" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sensei%27s%20Divining%20Top&quot;&gt;Sensei&amp;#39;s Divining Top&lt;/a&gt; in play on my turn, can he activate it in response to my attack phase in order to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terminus&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt; for its miracle cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13012" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:35:07.107" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T15:00:18.140" Title="Terminus as an instant?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24809" CreationDate="2015-06-25T17:47:00.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your opponent can do this, as long as the Terminus is the first card drawn that turn. It doesn't matter whose turn it is, or that Terminus is a sorcery, Miracle will trigger if it is the first card drawn on by that player on that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/avacyn-restored-mechanics-2012-04-09-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Avacyn Restored Mechanics&lt;/a&gt; article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you draw an instant or sorcery with miracle, if it's the first card you've drawn this turn, you can immediately reveal it. When you do so, you may cast it for its miracle cost. It doesn't matter whether it's an instant or sorcery; if you choose to cast it, you do so right away, even if it's at a time (such as your draw step) when you couldn't normally cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the CR:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.93a&lt;/strong&gt; Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). &amp;quot;Miracle [cost]&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it's the first card you've drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T15:00:18.140" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T15:00:18.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24809" CreationDate="2015-06-25T17:49:02.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, an opponent can use Sensei's Divining Top, or any other instant-speed draw effect, to draw and play a Miracle like Terminus on your turn. The rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Miracle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Miracle&lt;/a&gt; (702.93a) say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). &quot;Miracle [cost]&quot; means &quot;You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it's the first card you've drawn this turn. &lt;strong&gt;When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when your opponent activates the Top's ability, the following steps happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They draw Terminus, and put the Top on top of their Libary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminus is the first card they draw that turn, so miracle ability allows them to reveal it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revealing it triggers the Miracle triggered ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Miracle triggered ability starts to resolve, and they choose to cast Terminus for {W}. They are casting Terminus as part of the process of resolving the ability, so &lt;strong&gt;normal timing rules do not apply&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Terminus resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T17:49:02.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24812" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:14:31.810" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T18:14:31.810" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:14:31.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24813" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:14:31.810" Score="0" Body="A genre of tabletop game that examines military strategy by simulating battles." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-06-25T19:06:45.787" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T19:06:45.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24809" CreationDate="2015-06-25T18:19:12.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, he can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a common misconception that you are forbidden from casting Sorcery spells outside of your turn. There's no such restriction. Priority simply doesn't give you the option to cast a Sorcery when it's not your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Priority isn't the only rule or effect that allows you to cast spells. Miracle is one too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.93a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). “Miracle [cost]” means “You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it’s the first card you’ve drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, &lt;strong&gt;you may cast it&lt;/strong&gt; by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike Priority, Miracle doesn't check the type of the card or whose turn it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-25T18:19:12.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24816" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:25:33.210" Score="4" ViewCount="1948" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you lose as in magic? Do you reshuffle your discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="344" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T00:37:44.610" Title="What happens in Android: Netrunner when your deck runs out and you need to draw a card?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-26T01:19:44.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24815" CreationDate="2015-06-26T00:37:44.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the Corporation player attempts to draw from his empty R&amp;amp;D deck, he loses the game. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;, page 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...the Runner wins if the Corporation must draw a card from his empty draw deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Runner simply loses the ability to draw more cards if his Stack is empty, but it's not a game-ender. You don't reshuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12669" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T00:37:44.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24806" CreationDate="2015-06-26T03:27:36.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eliminate it Directly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The obvious answer is to just get rid of it directly, with a non-targeting effect.  Here's two that I have found, I'd be very interested in others that people know of:  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Council%20Judgement&quot;&gt;Council Judgement&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Porphyry%20Nodes&quot;&gt;Porphyry Nodes&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=drop%20of%20honey&quot;&gt;drop of honey&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the possibilities here are truly almost endless.  So, let us walk through ways around this problem...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;WIPE the BOARD&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing quite like brute forcing your way through a problem.  In multi-player, don't be surprised if you get countered though....  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt; is the obvious example here, but there are almost &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22destroy%20all%20creatures%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;100 cards that give you a massive board wipe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Damage all Flying Creatures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is a bit brutal, a &amp;quot;softer&amp;quot; way is to &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; damage the flying creatures.  There are about &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bflying%5D%20%5BX%5D%20%5Bdamage%5D%20%5Bcreature%5D%20!%5Btarget%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10 spells&lt;/a&gt; that can do this.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windstorm&quot;&gt;Windstorm&lt;/a&gt; is a nice one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Damage it indirectly&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of cards that can do this, but some related to creature types are: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coordinated%20Barrage&quot;&gt;Coordinated Barrage&lt;/a&gt;, although &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Engineered%20Plague&quot;&gt;Engineered Plague&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Outbreak&quot;&gt;Outbreak&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Roar%20of%20the%20Crowd&quot;&gt;Roar of the Crowd&lt;/a&gt;.  These can be considered variants of &amp;quot;Damage all flying creatures&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force your opponent to Sacrifice it&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast a spell/use an effect that forces your opponent to sacrifice a creature.  There are roughly &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bsacrifice%5D%20%5Bcreature%5D%7C%5B%22target%20player%22%5D%7C%5B%22opponent%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;50 cards&lt;/a&gt; that can be used to do this.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=far&quot;&gt;far&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=away&quot;&gt;away&lt;/a&gt; is an obvious example&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attack with any creature that has  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bannihilator%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;annihilator&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force your opponent to block your deathtouch or massive creature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deadly%20Allure&quot;&gt;Deadly Allure&lt;/a&gt; is the best card for this.  Although &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Irresistable%20Prey&quot;&gt;Irresistable Prey&lt;/a&gt; works nicely as well as a cantrip.  In all there are 10 cards that match the &amp;quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bmust%5D%20%5Bblock%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;must block&lt;/a&gt;&amp;quot; description.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are roughly 100 cards that have, or can give &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bdeathtouch%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deathtouch&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are roughly 100 creatures that have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;power=%20%3E=%5B8%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;power 8 or greater&lt;/a&gt;, and I'm not counting cards that can pump a creature's power like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Titantic%20Growth&quot;&gt;Titantic Growth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force it to lose shroud&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this is clear enough.  How to do that is a bit tricky, as you can't target it.  But there are a variety of ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcane%20Lighthouse&quot;&gt;Arcane Lighthouse&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humility&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polymorphist%20Jest&quot;&gt;Polymorphist Jest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Spoiling&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Force it to lose flying&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not quite what you had in mind, but still helpful.  I can't find many cards to do this however:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gravity%20Sphere&quot;&gt;Gravity Sphere&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Invert%20the%20Skies&quot;&gt;Invert the Skies&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Imagination&quot;&gt;Archetype of Imagination&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystic%20Decree&quot;&gt;Mystic Decree&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thundercloud%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Thundercloud Elemental&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whiteout&quot;&gt;Whiteout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wear it Down&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attack it with a creature that has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%7C%5Bwither%5D%7C%5Binfect%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;wither or infect&lt;/a&gt;, (over 100 options) i.e. does damage with -1/-1 counters.  Use a &amp;quot;force to block&amp;quot; effect described above to force the block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take it out of Combat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Force it to tap, before it can block and affect you.  I can't find a good search criteria for this.  Since it has shroud, you'll have to tap all their creatures, but hey, that's just gravy!  Some examples are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cryptic%20Command&quot;&gt;Cryptic Command&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angel%27s%20Trumpet&quot;&gt;Angel&amp;#39;s Trumpet&lt;/a&gt; is an interesting card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ensnare&quot;&gt;Ensnare&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turnabout&quot;&gt;Turnabout&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sleep&quot;&gt;Sleep&lt;/a&gt; this is my kids' current favorite card lately.  They beat me all the time with this one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid It&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These approaches may not apply to your case, you wanted to destroy it, but really, avoiding it is a perfectly legitimate strategy to deal with any threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Riders%20of%20Gavony&quot;&gt;Riders of Gavony&lt;/a&gt; can avoid it nicely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Intimidate:  There are about 35 cards that have or give &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bintimidate%5D&amp;amp;color=%20!%5BB%5D%20!%5BU%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;intimidate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fear:  There are roughly 70 cards that have or affect &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bfear%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fear&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadow: There are roughly 60 cards that give or have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bshadow%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;shadow&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bplainswalk%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plainswalk&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bmountainwalk%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mountainwalk&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bislandwalk%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;IslandWalk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bswampwalk%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SwampWalk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bforestwalk%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ForestWalk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of other &amp;quot;can't be blocked&amp;quot; creatures, those are just some ideas to get you going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overwhelm It&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast another great creature.  Or create a creature army....  The list here is too long to go into, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sacred%20Mesa&quot;&gt;Sacred Mesa&lt;/a&gt; &amp;amp; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Warrens&quot;&gt;Goblin Warrens&lt;/a&gt; are personal favorites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T18:48:37.340" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T18:48:37.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24829" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:03:07.223" Score="0" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Action card &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/01111&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Auction&lt;/a&gt; says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Noon:&lt;/strong&gt; Choose a deed in play. It becomes Private. If you own and control that deed, gain 1 ghost rock for each dude controlled by another player at that deed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play this card on a deed that is already Private? Or is it only playable on a deed that is initially Public?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T00:09:34.727" Title="Can Auction be played on a deed that is already Private?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2043" CreationDate="2015-06-26T16:56:46.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of those rules of 'who starts first' are really partly 'fun' extensions of the game, and a way to learn a little about each other at the start.  I only use them for the first time we play a new game or at least first time with new players.  After that, those rules go out the window unless they appear to 'even' things our a bit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always pass around the 'who goes first' based on a few things.  1 are there any new people playing the game.  If it's better to be first we let them go first, though often we let them go last in order to see how other players play to get an idea of how the game works so not to screw up their first turn, like in Dominion.  Otherwise we tend to use the Dominion of person left of the previous winner goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T16:56:46.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24821" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-26T19:37:43.117" Score="-1" ViewCount="1519" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are all multi-color permanents of colors C1,C2 also non-C1 and non-C2 simultaneously?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Battle%20Frenzy&quot;&gt;Battle Frenzy&lt;/a&gt;: does a Red/Green creature gain +1/+1 and +1/+0 by being both green and nongreen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 105 of the Official Rules:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Colors_(rules)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Colors_(rules)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official rules do not explicitly mention how to interpret the meaning of &amp;quot;non[color]&amp;quot; where [color] is one of the 5 listed colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example A:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gruul%20Ragebeast&quot;&gt;Gruul Ragebeast&lt;/a&gt; is both red and green, then: (A.1) Gruul Ragebeast is a red permanent; (A.2) Gruul Ragebeast is a green permanent.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(A.3) Gruul Ragebeast (if a creature) cannot be assigned to block any creature with &amp;quot;Protection from Red&amp;quot;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(A.4) Gruul Ragebeast (if a creature) cannot be assigned to block any creature with &amp;quot;Protection from Green&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming all statements A.1, A.2, A.3, and A.4 are true, I ask:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question:&#xA;Per statement A.1 (Gruul Ragebeast is red) then is it true that (Q.1) Gruul Ragebeast is nongreen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9834" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T21:55:06.583" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T06:46:58.060" Title="If an object has at least 2 colors, does it also count as non[color] for every color?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24821" CreationDate="2015-06-26T19:46:22.713" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Multicolored cards are only considered &quot;non-[color]&quot; if they do not have that color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Non-green&quot; is not explicitly defined in the Comprehensive Rules because it has its standard English meaning: &quot;Not green&quot;. An object either is green, or it is not. In the example you gave, the object &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; green, so it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; &quot;Not green&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way of putting it is that, when a card specifies some restrictions (like &quot;untapped green Elf creature&quot;), those restrictions are all predicate functions, and any object with matching zone, characteristics, and status can be affected by the effect. If the example I gave is a targeting restriction, then any object can be targeted as long as it is on the battlefield (&quot;creature&quot; implies &quot;permanent&quot;), has &quot;Creature&quot; and &quot;Elf&quot; among its types, has &quot;Green&quot; among its colors, and is not tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that point of view, &quot;non-green&quot; is the negation of the predicate function &quot;green&quot;, which means that it matches any creature that &lt;em&gt;does not&lt;/em&gt; have &quot;Green&quot; among its colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T20:05:23.013" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T20:05:23.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24803" CreationDate="2015-06-26T20:46:59.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do not know the answer, but I asked in a experienced Mahjong group I'm in, kindly received a most valuable pointer and was subsequently able to extend it to this answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Was it just a culturally interpretive term invented by English-speaking players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Probably&lt;/strong&gt;. An online search brough up &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrAub.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BrAub.png&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;A Mah Jong Handbook: How to Play, Score, and Win&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.de/books?isbn=1462905005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://books.google.de/books?isbn=1462905005&lt;/a&gt;), which is from 1964 and may be a root source others copied from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Mahjong was introduced to Japan only in 1924, so it took some time for it to divert from the Chinese rules (and create Riichi), and further more for it to be adapted into English and into books. That this took about 40 years is not unlikely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the group's reaction it also appears that, depending where and with whom you play Mahjong, there is a fair chance you won't encounter the term 'sacred discard' at all, even though Wikipedia uses it occasionally (especially in introductory articles). Personally, I've also always seen, heard and used the original &lt;em&gt;furiten&lt;/em&gt; instead (but I am not a regular player, so that amounts to not much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T07:32:13.793" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T07:32:13.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24821" CreationDate="2015-06-26T21:23:28.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gruul%20Ragebeast&quot;&gt;Gruul Ragebeast&lt;/a&gt; is Green and Red. We know this from comprehensive rule (CR) 202.2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;202.2. An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The prefix &amp;quot;non&amp;quot; in English literally means &amp;quot;not&amp;quot;. Here is your original question, with &amp;quot;not&amp;quot; substituted for &amp;quot;non-&amp;quot; and with references inlined to make it easier to read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: If Gruul Ragebeast is red, then is it true that Gruul Ragebeast is not green?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. Gruul Ragebeast is Green. Therefore, Gruul Ragebeast is not &amp;quot;not Green&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T06:46:58.060" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T06:46:58.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24797" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:04:57.647" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Greyjoys are a challenging house, and require a really aggressive play style. Out of the 6-player games I've played, the Greyjoys have won the least often, but not by a huge discrepancy, so take hope! There seems to be 2 working strategies, both based on the close relationship the Greyjoys have with the Lannisters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lannister Bloodbath&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Screw the Lannisters early. With the support ships and larger army you start with, paired with the card that adds +1 to each ship, you're basically guaranteed two early victories over the Lannisters. Use these as best you can, because if you aren't in an advantageous position after that, you've lost. You should move into the Riverlands, stopping the Lannisters from growing early. Keep your ships present to support and harass, which helps stop the Lannisters from recovering. Take the Twins, at this point you should have 3 castles and a good control over the mainland.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Things to Avoid&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harrenhall. The cursed castle is cursed in this game as well. Taking it almost always means you're overstretching, leaves you exposed to Lannister, Stark and Baratheon attacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Starks. They aren't a threat early. Don't waste time and precious momentum moving north, preparing for the Starks, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Relaxing. If you do win the initial push, you need to keep up constant fighting to get your first cards back and finish off the Lannisters with them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Outcome&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 2 or 3 turns, either you are hopelessly crippled, or the Lannisters are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Uneasy Alliance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the thought of essentially being out of the game after turn 2 sounds too risky, strike an alliance with the Lannisters. This is easier to do if the Tyrells are likely to be aggressive, as the Lannisters to not want to be stuck between you two. Give them the riverlands, make sure you keep the twins and your starting castles, and turn your attention North. You have a better claim on whiteshore and those Westernmost castles than the Starks do, use your early strength and sea support to take and keep them. Establish a strong base in the North, then decide whether to take Winterfell, turn to the Eeyrie and center of the Board, or betray the Lannisters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Things to Avoid&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trusting the Lannisters. Don't attack them early because you need a quiet border, but at some point one of you will break the truce. Accept it and be ready.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Harrenhall. Once again, a cursed castle. Not worth it, it doesn't give the Lannisters anywhere else to go and encourages betrayal. Leaves you open to the Starks, puts you in contact with the Baratheons when you don't really need another front.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Raiding too far south. Sometimes you can encourage the Lannisters to stay faithfull by raiding the Tyrells. But it takes a lot of resources and stretches your navy thin with ultimately very little in it for you. And that sneak attack all the way to Highgarden that nobody expects because ship travel is so OP? Never, ever works.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Outcome&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slower game, expect a slog-fest with the Starks, a lot of back and forth pushing. You probably can't ever knock them out of the game, just contain them. Last few turns will be extremely aggressive and bloody. Pray that the Tyrells and Lannisters stay enemies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T21:00:09.723" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24826" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24828" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:06:49.653" Score="0" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/06011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gomorra Jail&lt;/a&gt; is a deed with the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may start with this deed in play in place of a Law Dogs dude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Controller React, Boot:&lt;/strong&gt; When another player's wanted dude is discarded during the High Noon phase, this deed gains a permanent control point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can have dudes from other outfits in your deck (potentially with an additional upkeep cost, pg. 16), so is there any reason another faction, like the Sloane Gang, can't start with Gomorra Jail? I mean, could they just start with three Sloane Gang characters and have the Gomorra Jail be a &quot;different outfit&quot; dude from the Law Dogs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-26T23:19:44.420" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T23:49:17.573" Title="Can outfits other than Law Dogs start with Gomorra Jail?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24832" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:26:52.593" Score="0" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/01146&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gunslinger&lt;/a&gt; token in a shootout and he gets discarded or Aced. Per the card's text, you need to &quot;Remove this token from the game after this shootout.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that this means they go neither to the discard pile, nor to Boot Hill after a shootout. Does that mean that effects that trigger when a dude is discarded or aced happen to the Gunslinger? For instance, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/01076&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Undertaker&lt;/a&gt; deed has an effect that happens whenever a dude is aced. If the Gunslinger is aced in a shootout, does the Undertaker effect still happen even though the Gunslinger doesn't go to Boot Hill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T21:18:27.657" Title="Does removing a token from play trigger effects that happen when a dude is discarded or aced?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24826" CreationDate="2015-06-26T23:49:17.573" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook, page 14:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once players have revealed their outfits, they search their decks for up to&#xA;  five dudes—&lt;strong&gt;either from their outfit or drifters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Bold added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dudes from other factions can be in your deck, but not your starting posse. Hence if you are playing something other than Law Dogs, there is no way to have a Law Dog in your posse for the Jail to start &quot;in place of&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastActivityDate="2015-06-26T23:49:17.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24818" CreationDate="2015-06-27T00:09:34.727" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an in depth discussion of costs vs. requirements by the rule team &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=375&amp;amp;t=113319&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. It boils down to this: the first sentence after the bold text &amp;amp; colon is a cost and must be paid in order to use the card. Everything after that you try to execute, but if you are not able to do so just continue on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for Auction, the cost is simply &quot;Choose a deed in play.&quot; The only restriction in that sentence is &quot;in play&quot;, so already Private deeds are fine. The rest of the text then executes. &quot;It becomes Private&quot; has no effect, but the text about gaining ghost rock executes as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T00:09:34.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24830" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-27T01:03:51.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rex: Final Days of an Empire&lt;/em&gt; is a reimagination of the &lt;em&gt;Dune&lt;/em&gt; board game (published in 1979 by Avalon Hill) set in the Twilight Imperium Universe. It was first published by Fantasy Flight Games in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/twilight-imperium&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;twilight-imperium&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;twilight-imperium&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T13:26:22.487" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T13:26:22.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24831" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-27T01:03:51.653" Score="0" Body="A reimagination of the Dune board game set in the Twilight Imperium Universe." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T13:26:26.587" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T13:26:26.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24827" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:24:40.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you assign 2 casualties to a dude (token dudes are still dudes!) they're considered aced unless they're Harrowed in which case it'd take 3 casualties!  Per the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Token Dude is aced or discarded it is removed from play instead of going to the discard pile or boot hill.&#xA;  It will still trigger events like collecting a bounty or the Undertaker giving its controller 2 ghost rock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13026" LastEditorUserId="11666" LastEditDate="2015-06-27T21:18:27.657" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T21:18:27.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24833" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25809" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:35:20.330" Score="2" ViewCount="726" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that a 'completed' task is one in which you fulfill the roll requirements and thus can roll the remaining dice without discarding one as a penalty.  If I use a spell to defeat a monster after I roll, do I then need to also complete an additional task in order to re-roll without discarding a die? This is how the iOS game &quot;Elder Sign: Omens&quot; works, but I don't see any indication in the rules of it. I'm looking for documentation that implies this is how it should play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T22:41:21.923" Title="In Elder Sign, does defeating a monster with a spell count as a completed task?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24838" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:38:06.577" Score="0" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;There don't seem to be a large number of spell cards, and Dexter Drake can accumulate cards very fast.  If the spell deck (or any other deck for that matter) runs out, do players simply lose the privilege of gaining a card in cases that award them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T09:17:39.367" Title="In Elder Sign, if you need to draw from a deck and there are no cards left, do you lose the opportunity?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24835" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24867" CreationDate="2015-06-27T06:40:17.653" Score="0" ViewCount="327" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a monster locks a yellow die, can I use an item/spell to gain that die once I defeat the monster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I have not looked through the cards, but if there is a monster that locks the green die, would I gain the green die to use for rolling on the very turn I defeat that monster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T10:32:32.220" Title="In Elder Sign, If I free a locked die by defeating a monster, can I use it in the same turn?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24836" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24840" CreationDate="2015-06-27T16:17:06.937" Score="2" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coercive%20Portal&quot;&gt;Coercive Portal&lt;/a&gt; on the board. I use the Mindslaver's ability to take control of my opponent's next turn. Do I get to choose what his vote is for the Portal's ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T11:19:59.740" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T11:19:59.740" Title="Mindslaver and Conspiracy's vote cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24837" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22861" CreationDate="2015-06-27T16:43:01.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most gaming kits come with supplies to provide prize support for multiple people (whether it be players, people who help moderate the events, or other qualifications).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding playing the same character, there's nothing that prevents you from doing this, although typically you'd want to have more diversity of roles (and some characters could make the game much easier with multiple copies.)  The other issue is that without painting your minis or otherwise making them distinct, it could be hard to determine which of the 4 identical minis represent you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:43:01.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24834" CreationDate="2015-06-27T16:48:46.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there are no cards left, then you do not gain anything.  Ideally, you should be making use of these cards as often as possible to ensure that future gains do not get wasted due to not having cards available.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Remember that all discarded cards go immediately to the bottom of their appropriate decks -- so you may want to spend spells freely in encounters that have spells at stake -- they'd then be at the bottom of the deck, and available as part of your reward.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exact quote from page 13 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After all dice on a Spell card are removed, the player returns the&#xA;  card facedown to the bottom of its deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastEditorUserId="105" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T09:17:39.367" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T09:17:39.367" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22976" CreationDate="2015-06-27T16:54:39.867" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is not a wildcard -- instead, you choose which die to focus on.  If you're in an area with 2 red minions, and 1 blue minion, you can roll 3-1, or 2-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Link:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/669986/two-rule-questions-new-hero-abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official Clarification by Richard Launius (designer.)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="105" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T16:54:39.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24836" CreationDate="2015-06-27T17:27:27.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You make all decisions for that player, and what to vote for is a decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;712.5. While controlling another player, a player makes all choices and decisions the controlled player is allowed to make or is told to make by the rules or by any objects. This includes choices and decisions about what to play, and choices and decisions called for by spells and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T17:27:27.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24876" CreationDate="2015-06-27T21:24:47.640" Score="6" ViewCount="2328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game of Galaxy Trucker the other day when one of the players took a small meteor to his exposed central tile.  He had a number of other occupied crew pods, but I was under the impression that if you lose your central crew pod, your ship is destroyed and you lose the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I lose my central crew pod and still have other crew members left, can I continue on with the remainder of my ship, or do I lose right away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7519" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T23:28:04.630" Title="If I lose my central tile, do I lose the round?" Tags="|galaxy-trucker|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24843" CreationDate="2015-06-27T21:34:35.597" Score="4" ViewCount="261" Body="&lt;p&gt;All Mechanical Golems in Unity's deck say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This card cannot be played during your play phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's pretty clear that this means that during your turn, you cannot play a Mechanical Golem card as the card you play after resolving start of turn effects and before using a power (that's the Play Phase). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I presume that this means that you can't also play a Mechanical Golem card through something like Inspired Repair, which lets you play another card (since you would have played Inspired Repair, and resolved its effects, during your Play Phase).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But say that during another player's turn, you are given the opportunity to play a card. For instance, say that Fanatic is defeated and uses her &quot;One player may play a card now&quot; ability. Since it is not happening during Unity's Play Phase, could she play a Mechanical Golem straight from her hand and bypass the regular restriction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T22:01:54.747" Title="Can Unity play Mechanical Golems when she gets to play a card outside of her turn?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24842" CreationDate="2015-06-27T22:01:54.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, she can play a mechanical golem outside of her play phase as if it was any other card. All that card is saying is you can't play it during the play phase and it does not mention not being able to play it like any other card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This card cannot be played during your play phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this card for instance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scrap Metal - &quot;At the end of your turn, either take 1 Mechanical Golem from play back into your hand, or destroy this card.&#xA;  At the start of your turn, you may play a card. If you do, destroy this card.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What that card lets you do after you take a mechanical golem from play in into your hand you can then play it during the start phase of your next turn allowing it to  return the play with full health. What this means is that you can play a mechanical golem during your turn as long as it is not the play phase. The start of turn, user a power, draw a card and end of turn steps (or during any other player/environment/villain turn) are perfectly legal to play a mechanical golem as long as you gain the ability to play a card during those steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T22:01:54.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24846" CreationDate="2015-06-27T22:04:20.733" Score="4" ViewCount="540" Body="&lt;p&gt;If he is pushed onto repair spaces etc, does he repair and earn option cards at the end of the 5 register phases if he is on an option space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The robot doesn’t receive or execute Program cards and doesn’t move while powered down, but board elements still affect it. For example, a robot that powers down on a conveyor belt will still be moved by that belt even though it’s not moving on its own.&#xA;  Other robots can push a powered-down robot, and the robot can still be damaged (such as by laser fire), Because of that, a robot that’s powered down may receive new Damage tokens during the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that phase 4, the Complete Registers phase, lists &quot;Board Elements Move&quot; as subpart C and yet files flags and repairs sites under subpart E suggests to me that these are not technically &quot;Board Elements&quot;. Coupled with the natural telling of the story of robo-rally, that one would expect a lump of metal to be subject to attacks and conveyor belts but not be able to 'pickup' items or make use of a repair site to repair itself (this, versus the idea that a factory arm is doing the repair 100% for it), I lean toward the reading that the robot cannot earn cards or repair while powered down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T14:38:31.343" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:03:18.623" Title="In Robo Rally, does a powered down robot get to earn option cards and repair?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24844" CreationDate="2015-06-27T22:40:10.300" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you view the rules from the original 1994 edition vs the rules from the newer edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamingcorner.nl/rules/boardgames/roborally_uk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules for the original edition&lt;/a&gt;, you cannot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A powered-down robot is completely shut down--it can't fire weapons, tag checkpoints, or update its&#xA;  archive location, &lt;strong&gt;nor can it acquire or use option cards&lt;/strong&gt;. Powered-down robots don't move under their&#xA;  own power (they receive no program cards), but they may be moved by pushers, gears, and conveyor&#xA;  belts. They may also be pushed by other robots and shot at by lasers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also clarified in the FAQ from that edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: What can a robot do when it is powered down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;A: Nothing. A powered down robot cannot fire weapons, receive option cards, tag checkpoints (if pushed onto them), update archive locations (ditto), or use turn programmed cards (for example, Shield). It cannot use any options unless the options specifically say they can be used while a robot is powered down. The robot basically becomes a lump that can be pushed around and suffer damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is reasonable to assume that rules from the original edition are intended to be carried to the new edition unless it's somethign that the new edition specifies (such as the differences in how robots re-enter the board). Based on this, the answer is &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, the intent of the rules is that you cannot receive new option cards or repair while powered down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this rule is missing from the newer edition, so by a literal reading of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the newest rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, without being concerned about the old edition, the answer would be &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;. The rules for earning new options simply say that a robot on the correct space earns an option, no exceptions listed for if that robot is powered down. And the rules under powering down make no mention at all about this preventing you from earning new options or healing. The rules &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; specify that your robot can still be affected by board elements, and lists taking damage and conveyor belts as examples of this. One could say that option and healing squares fall in this category as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's some good discussion on this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/673439/can-powered-down-robots-be-repaired&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/91806/re-entering-new-robot-powered-down-option-square&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but no official answer given.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T15:03:18.623" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:03:18.623" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23655" CreationDate="2015-06-27T22:48:49.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to be &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/170496/le-fantome-des-mac-gregor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Le Fantôme des Mac Gregor&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;Since this one appears to have been published in 2005 this is probably a reprint and might have some rule changes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-06-27T22:48:49.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24868" CreationDate="2015-06-27T23:24:10.943" Score="2" ViewCount="804" Body="&lt;p&gt;In A Game of Thrones the board game the player who holds the iron throne breaks ties. In the expansion A Feast for Crows, objective cards are introduced such as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Control more land areas than any other house&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two players are tied for most number of land areas, is a player able to score this objective? If so does the iron throne player decide who has the &quot;most&quot; land areas? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:28:37.497" Title="A Game of Thrones Feast breaking ties for objectives" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24750" CreationDate="2015-06-28T00:51:24.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, a defender can't move sea units into the Caucasus. (An attacker can fire a one-shot bombardment from a battleship in conjunction with a land attack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second thing is that a defender can't move units during another player's attack portion of the turn. A defender may move defenders into a territory during the portion of the turn when s/he is entitled to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T00:51:24.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24850" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24853" CreationDate="2015-06-28T03:54:39.993" Score="2" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crab legs option card lets me play 2 cards in one register. If I have 4 damage, this leaves me with no cards to play in the 5th register. Is this just a pass in that turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T06:10:46.720" Title="In Robo Rally, what happens if I run out of cards and can't play a card on the 5th register?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24852" CreationDate="2015-06-28T04:33:42.310" Score="3" ViewCount="265" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I wake my robot with locked registers, do I have a 'blank' there until it unlocks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T06:02:53.583" Title="In Robo Rally, what happens to locked registers if I power up with more than 4 damage?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24851" CreationDate="2015-06-28T06:02:53.583" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're programmed randomly. This is dealt with explicitly on page 10 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LOCKING REGISTERS DURING POWER DOWN&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because robots can still be damaged during a power down, they can sometimes accumulate Damage tokens for a register to lock up before they reenter play. Registers that become locked when your robot is powered down are immediately programmed randomly: Draw a card from the top of the deck and put it in that register, face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T06:02:53.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24850" CreationDate="2015-06-28T06:04:10.540" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the rules don't quite say this explicitly, but the intent is that you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; have a card in every register. If you only have 5 cards, then in order to satisfy that you have to put one on each register, meaning you can't use crab legs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few things in the rules that at least strongly imply that. The biggest one is the &quot;reveal program cards&quot; step, which says &quot;Each player reveals his or her Program card for that register at the same time.&quot; That doesn't make much sense if a register can be empty. The instructions for placing your program cards also seem to assume you're putting one on each register.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T06:10:46.720" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T06:10:46.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24858" CreationDate="2015-06-28T06:42:05.907" Score="1" ViewCount="682" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I focus a die, can I free it and reroll it later in the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reference I see in the rules is the following (with something similar in the faq as well):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: A player can focus a die only after a failed roll, and he can focus only once during each of his turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, combined with the &quot;Elder Sign: Omens&quot; iOS game's inability to unfocus a focused die makes me feel it may be set in stone once you focus and bar you from freeing it. Is there any supporting ruling otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T15:28:21.790" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T17:34:21.007" Title="In Elder Sign, can I free a focused die?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24859" CreationDate="2015-06-28T07:24:43.533" Score="1" ViewCount="189" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use a spell to heal all my stamina after I complete the final task?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T09:06:49.827" Title="Can I use a spell after I complete all the tasks?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24860" CreationDate="2015-06-28T07:56:24.067" Score="2" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 13 says a player can only use his items, clues, spells, and allies during his own turn. Does this mean I can use a spell immediately after collecting adventure rewards, such as opening an other world gate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T09:10:12.583" Title="Can i cast a spell after collecting rewards for an adventure?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24893" CreationDate="2015-06-28T08:04:41.943" Score="4" ViewCount="387" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 30- or 40-something dark-haired male on the cover of these games appears to be the same character, but it's not clear to me which. Is it one of the in-game characters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:36:15.287" Title="Who is the male investigator on the cover of Arkham Horror, Elder Sign, and Eldritch Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|elder-sign|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24854" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:04:42.240" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.  Once focused, a die may only be used to complete a task using its locked side.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is not specifically mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/B1u9FoFcQBS.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Elder%20Sign/support/SL05-faq-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ sheet&lt;/a&gt; - however, based on other rulings in the FAQ, it is clear that not being mentioned in the RAW is not considered proof positive that a rule doesn't exist by the creators.  Focused dice are especially limited in usage, and they seem to be intended to be used only in a very specific way.  I believe you should go with the same ruling as the video game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T17:34:21.007" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T17:34:21.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24855" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:06:49.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can use spells at the end of an adventure after completing all tasks.&lt;/strong&gt;  This includes using Dice Lock spells, allowing you to lock unused dice that may be useful for other players on their turn, such as the red die on a wildcard result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T09:06:49.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24856" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:10:12.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The rules as written do not clarify one way or the other - it is up to a house ruling.&lt;/strong&gt;  However, many cards have specific timing for them listed (such as &quot;At the start of your turn&quot; or &quot;At the end of your turn&quot;).  With this in mind, for any card that does not have a timing listed, you could make a case for justifying its usage at any time during your turn, including immediately before it ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T09:10:12.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39759" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:42:23.237" Score="2" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you need to end your turn in the city with your origin marker in order to satisfy the condition on the &lt;em&gt;Married&lt;/em&gt; status?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The status &lt;em&gt;Married&lt;/em&gt; says, in part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After you have an encounter in another city, you must return to your home before you may end your turn in any other cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is ambiguous as to whether or not you must end your turn in this home city in order for it to count, or if you may simply move over it with your movement (rolling your check for making babies on the way) and then proceed as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the one hand, nothing else in the game functions by just passing over a space, but on the other, many cards make reference to their effects happening only &quot;after an encounter,&quot; while this one does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T20:52:20.913" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T17:49:41.820" Title="Returning to Origin city when Married" Tags="|tales-of-arabian-nights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28722" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:49:12.247" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How are skills counted for the victory condition?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first tie-breaker for winning the game is the number of statuses each contested player possesses, followed second by how many skills they possess.  When counting skills for this reason, are skill tiles counted as 1 skill regardless of level (Talent vs. Mastery), or do Mastery skills count as 2 skills each (similarly to how they are most commonly gained by receiving a skill twice)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:17:03.343" Title="Skills as a Victory Tie-Breaker" Tags="|tales-of-arabian-nights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24880" CreationDate="2015-06-28T09:52:58.657" Score="5" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is there a way to access passage 2,600 in &lt;em&gt;The Book of Tales&lt;/em&gt; through normal play?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Passage 2,600 in &lt;em&gt;The Book of Tales&lt;/em&gt; appears to be a humorous easter egg referencing the fact that it is the last passage in the book and congratulating you for reaching it.  Can this passage be accessed through any adventures in the game, or is it simply a joke to be found by those who happen to read it (by accident or otherwise)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T06:02:45.177" Title="Accessing Tale 2,600" Tags="|tales-of-arabian-nights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24871" CreationDate="2015-06-28T10:01:27.913" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does being &lt;em&gt;Sultan&lt;/em&gt; bypass the special requirements for being &lt;em&gt;Fabulously&lt;/em&gt; Wealthy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When gaining the Sultan status, a player automatically moves their wealth counter directly to &lt;em&gt;fabulous&lt;/em&gt; (the highest option).  However, being &lt;em&gt;Fabulously&lt;/em&gt; Wealthy also has a requirement that the player must possess a treasure.  Does being Sultan supersede this rule, or would a Sultan without any treasure be immediately moved back down to &lt;em&gt;Princely&lt;/em&gt; regardless of their status?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T20:50:23.363" Title="Fabulous Wealth as Sultan" Tags="|tales-of-arabian-nights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39758" CreationDate="2015-06-28T10:06:18.977" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do Islands count as Coastal spaces?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One specific effect in the game makes reference to &lt;em&gt;coastal spaces&lt;/em&gt;, which do not appear to have a clear definition or specific terrain icon.  Do islands count for this purpose?  By definition, islands are surrounded by coast and thus contain coast; however, they are not part of the coast of any mainland continent or landmass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2018-01-11T23:07:21.350" Title="Islands as Coastal Spaces" Tags="|tales-of-arabian-nights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24835" CreationDate="2015-06-28T10:18:36.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Not normally - monsters defeated within adventures are not destroyed and removed until the end of the adventure&lt;/strong&gt;.  Theoretically, this would work if you could destroy a monster instantly with some sort of monster-destroying special effect in the middle of the adventure; however, I believe that all such effects have timing windows that intentionally exclude the ability to do it at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T10:32:32.220" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T10:32:32.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24848" CreationDate="2015-06-28T16:24:28.733" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, p.8 (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The outcome of all ties &lt;strong&gt;in bidding&lt;/strong&gt; is decided by the player holding the Iron Throne token. This player places the Influence tokens of tied players on the highest (i.e., left-most) available positions on the track, in the order of his choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rulebook, p.11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Iron Throne Token&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player holding this token decides the outcome of all ties that occur in&#xA;the game, with the exception of ties in combat (which are resolved by a player’s&#xA;position on the Fiefdoms track) and ties in determining the winner of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course there is no reference to the FFC objective cards in the rulebook for the base game (since the expansion came afterwards), but I think a strict reading of the objective card itself (control &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; than any other House) combined with the normal use of the Iron Throne token in the base game (breaks all ties in &lt;em&gt;bidding&lt;/em&gt;, but not in combat or determining the winner of the game) means that if two players are tied for the most &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt;, the player holding the objective for having the most &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; cannot score it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: The only reference to scoring in the FFC rules that seems relevant is on pp.7-8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In turn order, each player may choose to score &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; Objective card of his choice from his Objective hand (if the criterion described is fulfilled) ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, this doesn't shed any further light on the issue, but I included it for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12629" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T16:36:19.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24874" CreationDate="2015-06-28T19:39:52.763" Score="2" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use Jenny's ability to discard a spell to gain the dice, because discarding is not the same as 'using' a spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="8272" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T16:33:42.070" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T16:33:42.070" Title="In Elder Sign, can I use Jenny Barnes' ability to discard a spell when the mythos lingering effect bars investigators from using spells?" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24862" CreationDate="2015-06-28T19:43:26.627" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;End your turn in any other cities&quot; defines return as ending your turn in your home. Otherwise, it would say &quot;end your turn in a city&quot;. This is standard English and board gaming terminology. None of the roughly fifteen people with whom I've played ever suggested otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-28T21:09:20.380" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:09:20.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24865" CreationDate="2015-06-28T20:50:23.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would it? Nothing in the Sultan status says you can't lose wealth. It simply raises your wealth like so many other effects, and the rules clearly limit your wealth to Princely if you have no treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T20:50:23.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24841" CreationDate="2015-06-28T21:12:48.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there's nothing special about your starting piece other than its shape and not being able to hold aliens. As long as you have crew (and engines if you hit open space) you can keep going. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T21:12:48.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24873" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24875" CreationDate="2015-06-28T21:38:45.603" Score="7" ViewCount="2980" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an older version of &lt;em&gt;The Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; (part number 483), and an older version of &lt;em&gt;The Cities and Knights of Catan&lt;/em&gt; (part number 494), which were purchased sometime around the late 1990s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased &lt;em&gt;Catan: Explorers and Pirates&lt;/em&gt;, but the game box says &quot;You must have &lt;em&gt;The Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt; (MFG3061) in order to use this game expansion&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I use this newer expansion of Catan with my older versions of the base game and expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13030" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:32:33.740" Title="Can I use Settlers of Catan (older edition) with Catan: Explorers and Pirates (2015 ed.)?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24869" CreationDate="2015-06-28T22:12:42.823" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;  Special effects that refer to discarding a card do not count as using the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:12:42.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24873" CreationDate="2015-06-28T22:32:33.740" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Aside from some slightly different artwork and renaming of soldiers to knights, the only difference is that the newer edition comes with a frame that has the ports printed on it. You don't need the frame, so you just play without it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-06-28T22:32:33.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24841" CreationDate="2015-06-29T00:37:33.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are four cases where you give up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you choose to give up (which you can only do before revealing the next adventure card).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you reach an Open Space card with zero engine power.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If an adventure card leaves you with no human crew on board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you are lapped in turn order (i.e. the player in the lead loops around the board and overtakes you) [courtesy of Samthere]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the most obvious place to have human crew is in your starting tile (and indeed it will always start with two humans in it, never an alien), if you have another crew cabin with humans in it as part of your ship then it doesn't matter if you lost the starting tile or the crew in it, you can continue your flight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T23:28:04.630" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T23:28:04.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24848" CreationDate="2015-06-29T04:31:59.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, you cannot score this objective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two players control the same amount of land, it is quite clear that you &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; control more land than any other players, and hence you cannot score the objective as the criterion described has &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; been fulfilled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second part of your question, regarding the Iron Throne, is not relevant. From memory, all the objectives had a hard criteria that could not be 'shared' between players (e.g. controlling particular locations etc)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T00:28:37.497" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:28:37.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24857" CreationDate="2015-06-29T04:44:59.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I had to guess, it would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Michael_McGlen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Michael McGlen&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; due to the fact that he is rocking a tommygun. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T04:44:59.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24879" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T05:13:17.710" Score="1" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the third time in 5 or 6 games today and yesterday I am seeing the same Spider Solitaire layout that I saw two days go. These three games all had very unique patterns, and took a large number of moves to solve, nearly 5,000 the second time on one because I had one move wrong early on that took a while to identify. Does anyone know how this happens? I'm running 64-bit Windows 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T07:45:26.063" Title="Why am I seeing the same 3 Spider Solitaire games today that I saw 2 days ago" Tags="|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-06-30T16:33:59.143" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24864" CreationDate="2015-06-29T06:02:45.177" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, your intuition is correct. It's an unreachable easter egg. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamedesigner/39260/kevin-maroney&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kevin Maroney&lt;/a&gt;, developer of the 2nd and 3rd editions of Tales of the Arabian Nights, states &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/434003/entry-2600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in this BGG thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nope. It's an unreachable Easter Egg, a tradition going back to the first edition in 1985 (paragraph 1400) and continued in the 1999 second edition (paragraph 1600).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T06:02:45.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24881" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-29T06:03:27.990" Score="7" ViewCount="22374" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have the card face down then you morph the card to face up, does it suffer summoning sickness? My friend has lots of them in his deck and I'm not too sure and would like to know whether they suffer from summoning sickness the turn they are morphed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13032" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T15:00:39.053" Title="Do morph cards suffer summoning sickness" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:21:09.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24881" CreationDate="2015-06-29T06:27:56.113" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing creatures face down and turning them face up (commonly called morphing/unmorphing) has no effect on them having summoning sickness. Unless they have haste, they have summoning sickness until they've been in play since the beginning of your most recent turn, whether they've been turned face up or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you play a creature face down then immediately turn it face up, it still has summoning sickness until your next turn. Similarly, if you play a creature face down, wait til it no longer has summoning sickness, and then turn it face up, it still doesn't have summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morph does have a lot of interesting rules associated with it, but a morphed creature is still a creature. Morph means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may cast this card as a 2/2 face-down creature with no text, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost by paying {3} rather than paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing in there about having haste, so like all creatures, it has summoning sickness. (It can't attack, and its activated abilities with a tap or untap symbol in their costs can't be activated unless it's been under your control since the beginning of your most recent turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, turning it face up has its share of rules, but all it really does is turn the creature face up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[pay the cost] ... turn the permanent face up. ... The morph effect on it ends, and it regains its normal characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's still the same creature it was before, so if it already had summoning sickness, it still does, and if it didn't have summoning sickness, it still doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T15:46:32.010" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T15:46:32.010" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24881" CreationDate="2015-06-29T06:28:07.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Morphing doesn't actually change the state of summoning sickness at all. Summoning sickness is more a property &lt;strong&gt;of the card,&lt;/strong&gt; and it affects cards that have Creature type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if the card has summoning sickness while it's face-down, it'll still have summoning sickness when it's turned face up. If it doesn't have summoning sickness, turning it face-up won't re-give it summoning sickness: it's in the clear, it can attack and pay tap costs immediately, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The lore behind morphing has always had the notion of a creature leaping out from disguise when it was turned face up. In the Onslaught block, &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20150922082153/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtgcom/arcana/1191&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;morph creatures came from a spider-shaped shell&lt;/a&gt;. In Tarkir, morph takes on the flavour of being &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/mm/khan-do-attitude-part-2-2014-09-08&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;obscured by dragon magic&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the story, morph is descended from a draconic magic. The humans (and humanoid creatures) of Tarkir managed to take the draconic magic and warp it to their own means. The key to the magic is that it hides the identity of the creature using it, making it harder to fight against, as you are forced to fight blindly without any knowledge of your foe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you're not summoning a new creature out of Morph that would obtain summoning sickness; the creature casts its disguise aside fully alert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T15:00:39.053" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T15:00:39.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="24884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24881" CreationDate="2015-06-29T06:30:17.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's recollect the summoning sickness rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;302.6.&lt;/strong&gt; A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with morph fully obeys this rule. If you cast a creature and then morph it on the same turn - it will suffer from summoning sickness. If you morph it during next turns and you didn't lose control of it - it won't suffer from summoning sickness and will be able to attack or use &quot;tap&quot; activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T06:30:17.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24881" CreationDate="2015-06-29T07:34:58.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it won't have &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; unless it already had it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning the card face up (&amp;quot;morphing&amp;quot;) just changes its characteristics, just like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; does. Turning the card face up doesn't give or take away &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; any more than Giant Growth does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't controlled the card since the beginning of your turn, it has summoning sickness. If it's a creature, it can't attack, and you can't use it's {T} or {Q} abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T11:16:52.337" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T11:16:52.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24879" CreationDate="2015-06-29T07:39:47.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The random number generator could have been seeded with the same seed, which would cause the same sequence of random number to be generated. The RNG in Microsoft's C library repeats every ~32,000 numbers (which is pretty abysmal), so there's effectively only that many seeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Different seeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;perl -E&quot;say srand; say join ' ', map int(rand(52))+1, 1..10;&quot;&#xA;1819759215  # The seed&#xA;41 35 23 9 35 2 41 11 50 51&#xA;&#xA;&amp;gt;perl -E&quot;say srand; say join ' ', map int(rand(52))+1, 1..10;&quot;&#xA;994223390&#xA;47 13 12 51 35 7 37 42 11 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if the same seed was picked the next day:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;perl -E&quot;srand(994223390); say join ' ', map int(rand(52))+1, 1..10;&quot;&#xA;47 13 12 51 35 7 37 42 11 2&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-06-29T07:45:26.063" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T07:45:26.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24889" CreationDate="2015-06-29T09:32:57.267" Score="7" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of Dixit that the game ends when the deck runs out (leaving players with full hands at the end). Every time I have played, the players have commented that this means that some players have been the storyteller more than others, and it doesn't seem fair. The players have wanted to continue playing after the deck has run out, until everyone has been the storyteller the same number of times, either by playing with fewer cards to choose from their hands, or by reshuffling the used cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the reason for not continuing until all players have been the storyteller? Do these methods of balancing the game have any unintended side effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7079" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-25T16:03:57.610" LastActivityDate="2020-01-09T16:03:21.370" Title="How to balance Dixit?" Tags="|house-rules|balance|dixit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24888" CreationDate="2015-06-29T11:15:59.463" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;That particular rule isn't particularly balanced, and is included for convenience. However, playing with fewer cards in hand also imbalances the game, as storytellers have fewer cards to choose from to come up with a good hint, and other players have fewer options to play in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns as the storyteller aren't the same value as other turns either; the storyteller is probably more likely to get their 3 points, but other players stand to gain more points by misleading other players and guessing the card correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to fix this is, as you mentioned, to reshuffle cards until everyone has had an equal number of turns. When I play, we agree to finish at the end of however many more rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you have extra Dixit card packs, you probably don't want to keep playing until you run out of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T11:15:59.463" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24890" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28733" CreationDate="2015-06-29T13:51:46.660" Score="5" ViewCount="3089" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I'm designing a board game that uses a number of adjacent hexagonal boards. These boards need to be divided up into spaces (tiles) that players move through. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been playing with using Hexagons inside the board but this leaves you with 6 partial tiles. Are there any recommendations for what shapes would fit into this space.&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m3GLv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Quickly Thrown Together example (excuse the Paint)&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12568" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:38:09.190" Title="Dividing up Hexagonal Board Tiles" Tags="|game-design|board-size|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24866" CreationDate="2015-06-29T13:56:41.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barring any rules to the contrary, coastal is generally interpreted as &quot;next to water&quot;, so I would say that an island certainly counts for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T13:56:41.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24890" CreationDate="2015-06-29T14:14:13.310" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;consider looking at how other games solve this problem, For example Settlers of Catan adds a &quot;sea&quot; around the boad which fills in the uneven edges when using full hexagons and gives a uniform diamond at the edge. Something along those lines might be the best way to resolve your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively you can design your overall boards such that the overflow hex tiles &quot;jigsaw&quot; together, either each board has half tiles which will always match up well (the style and substance of your tiles is important in making this decision, if you have an aliens vs robots theme for example you cant have tiles that are 50% alien 50% robot) or having some of the half tiles whole, some empty to slot together, which will also have a positive impact on the feel of your boards since they wont slide about as easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T14:14:13.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24857" CreationDate="2015-06-29T15:36:15.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I think it's just 'Generic 1920's stereotype'.  While I agree that he's got a tommy gun in both pictures, his facial structure looks wrong for being Michael McGlen.  He actually looks closer to Joe Diamond, if it wasn't for Joe Diamond having a blue suit.  Michael McGlen would be closest, without going over, but I think the cover art characters are just generic characters and no actual investigator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T15:36:15.287" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24798" CreationDate="2015-06-29T16:00:11.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since I've never used the app before (I have android devices, not Apple) I can only answer from what I've seen with other apps like this and tailor it to what the Toolkit claims to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it has a full list of every event card and gate card, it does save on the setup of the game significantly.  However, since it doesn't have the Mythos deck set up and tracked, it doesn't help the app very much in that regard.  You still have to pull out cards and, when you're setting up, you might as well pull everything out and set it down instead of leaving just the event cards and gate cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also gives you a dice roller, which I don't see as really a time-saver.  Plus, it feels better to roll dice physically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The investigator tracking sheet is nice to remember what your current stats are for all of your skills, how many clues you have, how much damage you've taken, ect.  It really clears up the clutter of the board.  Down side?  It doesn't show you everything about your character, so you still need the card out.  And it only tracks your character, not all the others.  You'd need to buy the thing for a lot of people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, it gives you maps of each of the boards (so long as you buy them as add-ins).  This helps in reading the board for yourself, but you have to have the board out for you in the first place, so I don't see this as a time saver either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-06-29T16:00:11.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2015-06-29T19:23:17.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to Mycosynth Lattice, there is at least one other way that I know of. When you cast a spell with the &lt;strong&gt;Convoke&lt;/strong&gt; keyword, you can pay a colored mana cost by tapping a creature of that color. In order to pay a cost that isn't in your colors this way, you would need a somewhat elaborate setup. First, you would need to control a creature of the other color, such as by stealing it or copying it (because you couldn't have such a creature in your deck). Second, you would need to be able to cast a spell owned by an opponent in the other color that has Convoke (because you couldn't have such a spell in your deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your commander is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sen%20Triplets&quot;&gt;Sen Triplets&lt;/a&gt; (colors WUB), and you have Sen Triplets in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You targeted an opponent with Sen Triplets and can see and play cards from their hand (Sen Triplet's ability).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That player's hand contains a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feral%20Incarnation&quot;&gt;Feral Incarnation&lt;/a&gt; (mana cost {8}{G}, with Convoke).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have control of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; (color G) owned by an opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you may cast Feral Incarnation from your opponents hand, paying for the {G} by tapping Runeclaw Bear. You have thus paid a cost of {G} without having green in your commander's color identity and without ever having green mana in your pool. This relies on the latest rules for the Convoke mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13039" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T01:27:26.280" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T01:27:26.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24900" CreationDate="2015-06-29T23:30:57.973" Score="1" ViewCount="107" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When placing monsters, they should be divided as evenly as possible among the open gates, with no gate having more monsters placed on it than the gate where the monster surge occurred this turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that if I am place 6 monsters across 3 gates, the first of which has 5 monsters, then I should end up with 7, 2, and 2 monsters in those locations when I am done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:08:56.900" Title="In Arkham Horror, should the newly placed monsters or the final count of monsters be evenly distributed?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24897" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24899" CreationDate="2015-06-29T23:34:25.197" Score="3" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the accepted procedure for drawing monsters? If I need to draw 8 monsters for 3 gates, it's easy to determine which two will get the extra monster, but do I draw them one by one, looking at them then placing them, or do I draw them all at once and distribute after looking at all 8, or do I blindly distribute them adhering to the agreed upon numbers at each location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:26:03.427" Title="In Arkham Horror, does the first player look at the drawn monster before deciding how to place it?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24898" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25108" CreationDate="2015-06-29T23:53:51.723" Score="1" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Russia doesn't build an industrial complex, can units be mobilized in any controlled territory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any complexes printed on the board itself to start the game off, does that mean I have to buy one in order to mobilize units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastEditorUserId="15741" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T20:40:28.487" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T20:40:28.487" Title="A&amp;A 1942 2nd ed: Is it necessary to build an industrial complex in order to mobilize units?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24897" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:04:22.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't look at them - just draw and place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, in the Open Gate and Spawn Monster section (on page 2-3), in its discussion of monster surges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When placing monsters, they must be divided as evenly as possible among the open gates, with no gate having more monsters placed on it than the gate where the monster surge occurred this turn. If there are more monsters to be placed than allowed by the monster limit, the players should decide where monsters will be placed. The players must make this decision before monsters have been drawn from the cup. If the players cannot agree where the monsters are to be placed, the first player decides the placement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That doesn't explicitly cover the scenario you asked about, but the same principle should apply: you figure out where to put all the monsters you're about to draw, then you draw them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T00:26:03.427" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:26:03.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24896" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:08:56.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's the newly placed monsters you're distributing evenly. The &quot;they&quot; in that sentence refers to the monsters you're placing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you're mostly right about your example: to place six monsters on three gates, you add two to each, no matter what was already there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But remember, the monster limit is the number of players in the game plus three. Presumably if a monster surge makes you place six monsters on three gates, you have six players, so the monster limit is 9. If there are already 5 monsters on the board, you can only add four more, and the last two will go to the outskirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt; clarify that situation a bit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When placing monsters, they must be divided as evenly as possible among the open gates, with no gate having more monsters placed on it than the gate where the monster surge occurred this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in that example, you'd place two on the gate that caused the surge, one on each of the others, and two in the outskirts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:08:56.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24897" CreationDate="2015-06-30T00:23:09.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You definitely do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; get to decide where to put a monster once you've looked at it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That would go against the 'spirit' of the game. Once you've decided the distribution (e.g. 2 at the woods, 1 at the black cave and 1 at The Unnameable), just draw them one by one and place them. I usually do a round robin placement (1 at each gate before putting the others) but it isn't something that is mandated by the rules. Just as long as the end result meets the rule mentioned in Jefromi 's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T00:23:09.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5115" CreationDate="2015-06-30T10:40:48.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers cover the general rules, and that you can't add off-colour mana to your mana pool doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have already mentioned &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;, which allows you to spend all mana as mana of any colour. Other cards with similar effects include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Celestial%20Dawn&quot;&gt;Celestial Dawn&lt;/a&gt; white -&amp;gt; any&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daxos%20of%20Meletis&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt; any -&amp;gt; any for a specific spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Dawn&quot;&gt;False Dawn&lt;/a&gt; white -&amp;gt; any until end of turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=North%20Star&quot;&gt;North Star&lt;/a&gt; any -&amp;gt; any for one spell (activated ability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Psychic%20Intrusion&quot;&gt;Psychic Intrusion&lt;/a&gt; any -&amp;gt; any for a specific spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Elemental&lt;/a&gt; blue -&amp;gt; any for its [copied] abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sunglasses%20of%20Urza&quot;&gt;Sunglasses of Urza&lt;/a&gt; white -&amp;gt; red&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T10:40:48.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24905" CreationDate="2015-06-30T12:29:55.260" Score="6" ViewCount="6536" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHowl%20of%20the%20Horde%5d&quot;&gt;Howl of the Horde&lt;/a&gt; and then cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCollateral%20Damage%5d&quot;&gt;Collateral Damage&lt;/a&gt;, I know that I do not need to sacrifice additional creatures for the copies based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7857/do-i-need-to-sacrifice-again-if-i-copy-goblin-grenade&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;. However, does each new copy trigger Prowess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7335" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T20:19:16.357" Title="Will a copied spell trigger Prowess?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24903" CreationDate="2015-06-30T12:53:01.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the card rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;9/20/2014: [...] Each copy is created on the stack, so it's not &quot;cast&quot;. Abilities that trigger when a player casts a spell won't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the copy isn't &quot;cast&quot;, you don't have to pay attention to any abilities saying &quot;as an additional cost to cast [card]...&quot;. This also means that prowess does not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T12:53:01.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24903" CreationDate="2015-06-30T13:08:27.637" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Collateral damage says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional cost to &lt;strong&gt;cast&lt;/strong&gt; Collateral Damage ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive Rule 706.10 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To copy a spell ... means to put a copy of it onto the stack; &lt;strong&gt;a copy of a spell isn’t cast&lt;/strong&gt;. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per 706.10, the copy of Collateral Damage isn't cast, so you don't have to pay the cost again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copying a spell does not trigger Prowess. Prowess triggers when you cast a spell, and, as we previously discovered, copied spells are not cast. A ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howl%20of%20the%20Horde&quot;&gt;Howl of the Horde&lt;/a&gt; reiterates what we have concluded:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... Each copy is created on the stack, so it’s not “cast.” Abilities that trigger when a player casts a spell won’t trigger. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards actually copy the card (not the spell) and have you cast the copied card. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Panoptic%20Mirror&quot;&gt;Panoptic Mirror&lt;/a&gt; is a good example. Just to be clear, this would trigger Prowess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T18:28:05.670" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:28:05.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24916" CreationDate="2015-06-30T16:47:49.753" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed the faq files for Arkham Horror are very large and are partially incorporated into the revised printing, but will I simply be doing some things outright wrong unless I review the faq first?  Will it be sufficient to use the faq as a reference and expect certain aspects of the game will be confusing and prompt me to look up the appropriate section?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:35:11.373" Title="How prepared will I be to play Arkham Horror after reading just the Rulebook?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24917" CreationDate="2015-06-30T16:56:28.587" Score="3" ViewCount="1349" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say this in setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The players shuffle the Common Item, Unique Item, Spell, and Skill decks, then return them face down to their places next to the board. Whenever players draw cards, they draw them randomly from the tops of these decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no mention of the Ally decks, yet in one bgg contributor rulesheet I found &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/66292/combined-rule-sheet-arkham-dh-kp-ih-and-latt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, it says the following in the setup box:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Distribute Allies. Assign any Fixed Allies to Investigators. Draw 11 Allies from remaining supply to create the Ally Deck. Assign any Random Allies to Investigators from the Ally Deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official reference to what to do with the Ally cards that I overlooked? I didn't see it in the Rulebook or FAQ. I assumed the omission from the rulebook setup text was just an oversight, but seeing this snippet in the contributor rule sheet has me second guessing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:04:11.540" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T04:12:52.683" Title="In Arkham Horror, are Ally cards treated specially in setup?" Tags="|arkham-horror|game-setup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:34:43.950" Score="3" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dominion Adventures, when you trash one of the Traveller cards, where does that Traveller go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules seems to imply the Trash pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since there are only 5 of each pile, I was wondering if there was some specific rules for cards that weren't in Supply like Travellers and Spoils.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="87" LastEditorUserId="25041" LastEditDate="2018-10-24T19:38:27.393" LastActivityDate="2018-10-24T19:38:27.393" Title="Where do trashed Travellers go?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-adventures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24909" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:45:51.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tokaido: Crossroads&lt;/em&gt; is an expansion for Tokaido adding additional locations for travelers to visit. The English version was published in 2013 by Funforge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/tokaido&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;tokaido&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;tokaido&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:04.310" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:04.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24910" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:45:51.640" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Tokaido adding additional locations for travelers to visit." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:28.167" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:28.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24911" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:50:38.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sushi Go!&lt;/em&gt; is a card-drafting game where players compete to have the best combination of sushi dishes. It was first published in 2013 by Adventureland Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:21.577" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:21.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24912" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:50:38.653" Score="0" Body="A card-drafting game where players compete to have the best combination of sushi dishes." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:34.943" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:34.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24913" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:54:33.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Once Upon a Time&lt;/em&gt; is a collaborative story game where players use cards to add elements to an ongoing story. The English version was first published in 1993 by Atlas Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:24.583" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:24.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24914" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T17:54:33.740" Score="0" Body="A collaborative story game where players use cards to add elements to an ongoing story." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T21:59:30.737" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:30.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24915" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:09:34.820" Score="2" ViewCount="7829" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have started making up new roles for resistance when we get tired of using the basics like Merlin, Percival Mordred, Morgana and Oberon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know Mordred can hide from Merlin, Merlin knows who is evil(except Mordred), Morgana appears as Merlin, Percival know who is Merlin (and who is Morgana, but not which one is which), and Oberon is evil but he doesn't know who else is evil and they don't know who he is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far one variation we've played with is where Oberon knows who his evil team mates are, or they know who he is. He is evil, but knows nothing about who else is good and evil but his evil team mates will know who he is. Or he knows who all of them are, but they don't know who he is.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've also played with &quot;Nice Friends&quot; (The name is a work in progress). Where two Loyal Servants know the identity of each other but nothing else, they don't know who any of the evil people are. And at the end of the game if the evil team can correctly guess both Nice Friends they win. Usually if we play with nice friends at least Percival is removed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone made up their own roles, used any other variations or are there any that already exist that aren't in the traditional version of Avalon? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="12903" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T23:29:37.950" LastActivityDate="2018-06-01T11:28:50.883" Title="Additional/Made up roles in Resistance or Resistance avalon" Tags="|the-resistance|the-resistance-avalon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-06-01T12:34:07.460" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24906" CreationDate="2015-06-30T18:35:11.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing would be to learn the rules from someone who's very proficient in them, from their own experience playing. My experience, however, consisted of learning to play Arkham Horror with four friends who were all new to the game as well. In that case, I would suggest that anyone who has not played the game before at least attempt to read the entire rulebook and FAQ first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have at least one person participating who's very conversant in the rules, then you'll probably be referring to the rulebook a LOT, not just checking the FAQ for clarifications. Note how long the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5415/what-do-you-recommend-putting-in-an-arkham-horror-quick-reference-sheet/5416#5416&quot;&gt;&quot;short&quot; version of a quick reference guide in this answer&lt;/a&gt; is. It's pretty hard to explain the game concisely, and a lot of complications arise beyond the basic rules of the game. Naturally, the FAQ derives from those complications, and simply being aware of which characters, cards, etc have clarifications written about them will help you know whether to consult the rulebook or FAQ while playing. Don't expect to remember everything you read, there's just so much, but do everything you can to make it easier to refer to later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you consult some other questions on Arkham Horror, you'll see some comments about the importance of at least &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1864/arkham-horror-dominant-personality-issue/1877#1877&quot;&gt;one player having the expertise to guide other new players&lt;/a&gt;. If you don't have that one expert player, then simply reading the rules AND the FAQ may not be enough to get everything right when first playing. So in short, you should read everything, and still be okay with the expectation that it may take a while to get it all right!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12635" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T18:35:11.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24907" CreationDate="2015-06-30T19:13:14.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the reason for this may be because there's no circumstance I've run into* where you pull a random ally, except in the case of discarding then it specifically says in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For every point the terror level goes up, select one Ally card at random from the Ally deck and return it to the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, it's not telling you to randomize them initially because there's no point.  The other decks draw from the top and have reasons to look at the bottom as well.&#xA;For the record, I generally randomize anyway but admit I end up having to look through during encounters and purchasing (or setup) to find the guy I want then re-randomizing.  So...ignoring might be smarter=)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*: I don't have all the expansions nor have I read every card/encounter etc but I do have 3 expansions and have played this game several dozen times.  But anyway, it's theoretical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T19:13:14.940" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24918" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24928" CreationDate="2015-06-30T20:39:51.877" Score="6" ViewCount="586" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got this box years ago from a (then) friend together with their collection of cards (many from 5th edition up to Urza's Saga). It is a flip-top box with a warrior on the top (pictured), the sides feature warriors fighting dragons and other monsters. The back (also pictured) features the Wizard logo and the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast and &lt;strong&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/strong&gt; are registered trademarks of Wizards of the Coasts, Inc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Box Illustration by Christopher Moeller. (c)1993-1999 Wizards of the Coast, Inc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can hold three cardboard theme-deck boxes (the type you also get in fat packs) side by side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions about this box are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Has this box been part of an official Magic; the Gathering product?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is / are the warrior(s) characters featured in Magic?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUeCB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MTG Box top and front&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DXsTm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;MTG Box back&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="12626" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T20:46:05.293" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T00:30:18.120" Title="Is this box an official MTG product? Who are the featured characters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24908" CreationDate="2015-06-30T21:59:47.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you trash it, then it goes to the trash pile like a normal card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same for Spoils and Ruins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you exchange a traveler, then it goes back to the original pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="153" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T21:59:47.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24920" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:45:26.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Seasons&lt;/em&gt; is a card and dice game where sorcerers compete in the tournament of the 12 seasons. It was first published in 2012 by Libellud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:47:28.550" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:47:28.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24921" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:45:26.367" Score="0" Body="A card and dice game where sorcerers compete in the tournament of the 12 seasons." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:47:14.510" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:47:14.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24922" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:51:19.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tichu&lt;/em&gt; is a partnership climbing card game where players attempt to get rid of their hand while scoring points. The first version was in German and was published in 1991 by Fata Morgana Spiele. The first English version was published in 1998 by Rio Grande Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T03:31:00.110" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T03:31:00.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24923" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:51:19.993" Score="0" Body="A partnership climbing card game where players attempt to get rid of their hand while scoring points." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:46:27.460" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:46:27.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24924" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:52:56.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Yggdrasil&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative board game where players are Norse gods banding together to keep evil forces at bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:46:47.890" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:46:47.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24925" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:52:56.193" Score="0" Body="A cooperative board game where players are Norse gods banding together to keep evil forces at bay." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T03:30:53.737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T03:30:53.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24926" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:59:44.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Blueprints&lt;/em&gt; is a dice rolling game in which players are architects trying to build the best buildings. It was first published in 2013 by Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:46:35.323" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:46:35.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24927" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:59:44.017" Score="0" Body="A dice rolling game in which players are architects trying to build the best buildings." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-06-30T23:47:35.153" LastActivityDate="2015-06-30T23:47:35.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24918" CreationDate="2015-06-30T22:59:55.330" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Battle_Royale&quot;&gt;Battle Royale box&lt;/a&gt;. It's a preconstructed theme deck box from November 1999, and it came with four 40-card decks. It came out during the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Masques_block&quot;&gt;Masques block&lt;/a&gt;, between &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mercadian_Masques&quot;&gt;Mercadian Masques&lt;/a&gt; (October 1999) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Nemesis&quot;&gt;Nemesis&lt;/a&gt; (February 2000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any indicators of who the box art depicts. It doesn't seem to be a card art reprint &amp;mdash; Christopher Moeller is credited for the box art, but it matches &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?output=spoiler&amp;amp;method=visual&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;set=[%22Battle+Royale+Box+Set%22]&amp;amp;artist=+[%22Christopher+Moeller%22]&quot;&gt;none of his Battle Royale cards' art&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't even match the art style used on cards at the time, and it doesn't seem to depict anything from cards in the box. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/expert/battle_royale/welcome.asp&quot;&gt;official product page&lt;/a&gt; (from a very old part of the Wizards site) just calls it the &quot;Battle Royale Box Art&quot;. &lt;em&gt;Probably&lt;/em&gt; Moeller was just told to paint a bunch of fantasy creatures fighting and they put that on the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Thanks to Jefromi for checking through the card art too, and finding Moeller's art.)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How I found this out, for future investigators: I searched Google Images for &quot;mtg 1999 deck box&quot;, since that copyright line means it must have come out in 1999. The results showed boxes of this type were either starters or preconstructed theme boxes. &quot;mtg starter box&quot; didn't get me anywhere. I opened &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Block_%28sets%29&quot;&gt;the list of MTG sets&lt;/a&gt;, and googled &quot;mtg sixth edition preconstructed box&quot;, and then &quot;mtg nemesis preconstructed box&quot; (that box looks nemesis-y), and found photos of a box exactly like that one, and one of them was on a MTG Salvation Wiki page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T00:30:18.120" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T00:30:18.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24929" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25301" CreationDate="2015-07-01T00:54:03.467" Score="0" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to rule 1.10g Divisional Integrity Artillery Bonus: &quot;Artillery which does not have a friendly unit adjacent to the intended target ... will receive a (leftward) shift on the Barrage Table...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this shift apply to air units attacking without a spotter? Does it apply if air units are barraging with artillery units without a spotter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13046" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T21:58:44.693" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T21:58:44.693" Title="Stalingrad Pocket 2nd ed Air Power Barrage Shift" Tags="|stalingrad-pocket-ii|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24931" CreationDate="2015-07-01T03:26:43.753" Score="4" ViewCount="898" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a spell says, &lt;em&gt;Search target player's graveyard, hand, and library for X&lt;/em&gt;, as is the case with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=215103&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memoricide&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397706&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt;, does that mean &lt;em&gt;the casting player&lt;/em&gt; gets to look? (Thereby being able to take a mental inventory and gain insight into what he or she would apply a subsequent Memoricide to?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T03:50:16.877" Title="Who gets to &quot;search target player's graveyard, hand, and library?&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24930" CreationDate="2015-07-01T03:50:16.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, when a spell has an instruction, it is instructing its controller to take that action. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot;&gt;rule 608.2c&lt;/a&gt;, the third step of resolving a spell or ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The controller of the spell or ability&lt;/strong&gt; follows its instructions in the order written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That does mean that when you cast those spells, you can look through your opponent's hand and library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine if the spell was instead instructing that player to search their own hand and library. How would you verify that they had found all copies of the named card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T03:50:16.877" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-01T04:58:26.177" Score="4" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Arkham Horror errata says on page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Some Items state that they cannot be lost or stolen unless you choose to allow it. When does this ability come into play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: It would come into play when an investigator goes insane, gets&#xA;  knocked unconscious, or defaults on a bank loan. It would also come&#xA;  into play when any other game effect specifically instructs you to&#xA;  lose an item or tells you an item is stolen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is vague. Since you are choosing which items to lose when you go insane or unconscious, the only way I can see this answer making sense is that they are claiming these particular items could cause you to not lose half of your items (rounded down).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation is that if you have two items, both of which can't be lost unless you allow it, then you can retain both when you go insane/unconscious. What if you have 4 items that can't be lost and 2 that can.  Do you get to lose only 2 of the items in this case?  If you have merely 1 item that can and 1 that can't, is it basically no different than if you had regular items (and would mean you are simply choosing the one to get rid of)? This leads me to think that this quality of items only really comes into play if &lt;strong&gt;greater than &quot;half of your items rounded up&quot; have this quality&lt;/strong&gt;. i.e. 3 out of 4, 4 out of 5 items, 4 out of 6 items, 5 out of 7 items, etc, in which case you could avoid losing the full &quot;half rounded down&quot; amount.  Do I have this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T11:34:24.917" Title="In Arkham Horror, do you ignore counting items that can't be lost or stolen when going insane or unconscious?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24997" CreationDate="2015-07-01T07:55:06.163" Score="3" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/846447/hive-challenge-how-complex-hive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some calculations&lt;/a&gt;, Hive has not too many positions to check them all out through programming, and basically make the best possible AI for it. Has it been done yet?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13050" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T15:43:34.000" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:16:48.860" Title="Has Hive already been completely 'solved' for AI?" Tags="|computer-ai|hive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33744" CreationDate="2015-07-01T09:25:26.000" Score="5" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the fluff, &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammerfb.wikia.com/wiki/Ogre&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ogres&lt;/a&gt; are generally employed as mercenaries, as opposed to an army in their own right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I do the same in the tabletop version?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if so, does it matter which army? Could both the &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammeronline.wikia.com/wiki/Skaven&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skaven&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammerfb.wikia.com/wiki/Empire_of_Man&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Empire&lt;/a&gt; hire them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13051" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T11:03:42.357" LastActivityDate="2017-03-07T09:50:35.717" Title="Can I add Ogre mercenaries to any army in Warhammer fantasy?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24932" CreationDate="2015-07-01T11:34:24.917" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While the ruling may seem a little bit weird, everything they say in the errata section makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During an unconscious or madness scenario, you are the one looking at your items and choosing to remove them.  You still count the amount of items you have, as a whole.  However, you are allowed to pick which ones get removed to satisfy the requirements of the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, you have six items in total and two of them have the &quot;KEEP&quot; status (the status we're talking about).  You get knocked out.  At this point, you have to choose three items to remove, because you have six items total.  Since you're the one that gets to choose, you would see three of these items go away and may choose one of the KEEP items to remove to fulfill the requirement.  This seems all by the rules at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, let's say you hold all of the KEEP items.  Now, you have two KEEP items and one other item.  Let's say you keep going and find another KEEP item.  You now have three KEEP items and one normal item.  You go mad now, for whatever reason.  At this point, your total is calculated again.  Four total items mean that you have to remove two items from your inventory.  The logic of the board dicates that either you, as the player, decide to remove two items of your own or it forces you to remove two items.  You can still choose, if you wish, to remove a KEEP item to satisfy the request.  However, since you cannot be forced to remove these items, you can instead have the logic of the board remove your one normal item.  Once it's done that, the board would then need another item...but since all the rest of your items are KEEP items, it fails to take any more items from you.  Thus, you are now able to keep all of your items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the basic way the rule works in terms of the knocked out or insane status.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T11:34:24.917" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2063" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:20:15.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The faq posted in 2012 &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/ca/f0/caf0a739-bda3-4c39-b8cb-a3a915253eb1/arkham_horror__core_faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: What happens if the general supply of Clue tokens&#xA;  is depleted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Use pennies, poker chips, or some other small items to stand in for the Clue tokens until the general supply&#xA;  is replenished. Alternatively, if no more Clue tokens are available, track any Clue tokens that are gained or placed in play with paper and pencil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see mention of how to treat stamina, sanity, money, and explored tokens, but given that if any of these were to be argued to be limited it would likely be clues in some story driven way, and given that they explicitly say the above answer for clues, you can likely infer that the same can be done with the other items in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T16:20:15.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24937" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24940" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:46:51.417" Score="3" ViewCount="2107" Body="&lt;p&gt;During an opponent's turn, I had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guile&quot;&gt;Guile&lt;/a&gt; and used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rethink&quot;&gt;Rethink&lt;/a&gt; to counter a permanent spell (in my case, it was a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deathbringer%20Thoctar&quot;&gt;Deathbringer Thoctar&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guile's second ability states &amp;quot;if a spell or ability you control would counter a spell, instead exile that spell and you may play that card without paying its mana cost&amp;quot; which makes no mention of timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no ruling posted on The Gatherer, but some forum posts around the web suggest I can play it out of turn. Can anyone provide rule snippets or examples from sanctioned tournaments to provide a definitive answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6186" LastEditorUserId="7128" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T17:04:34.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T18:19:26.520" Title="Can I play countered sorcery speed spells with Guile?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24937" CreationDate="2015-07-01T16:58:22.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There actually is a Gatherer ruling related to the timing. I bolded the relevant sentences.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guile's second ability replaces &amp;quot;counter [a certain spell]&amp;quot; with &amp;quot;exile [a certain spell] and you may cast it without paying its mana cost.&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;You have the option to cast it immediately&lt;/strong&gt; upon its exile. If you choose not to, it remains exiled and &lt;strong&gt;you don't get another chance to cast it.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability that tried to counter the spell has additional effects, it then continues to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you cast the spell &lt;em&gt;during&lt;/em&gt; the resolution of whatever counter spell you cast. Since normally you can't cast spells during the resolution of a spell this means you have to ignore normal timing restrictions (like only being able to cast it during your main phase when the stack is empty), it how ever doesn't ignore restrictions like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Beating&quot;&gt;Savage Beating&lt;/a&gt;'s&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast Savage Beating only during your turn and only during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to cast it at some other time the ability would need to explicitly give you that ability, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Outpost%20Siege&quot;&gt;Outpost Siege&lt;/a&gt; which gives you the ability to play it until the end of turn, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kheru%20Spellsnatcher&quot;&gt;Kheru Spellsnatcher&lt;/a&gt; which gives you the ability to play the card as long as it is exiled (and the Spellsnatcher is on the battlefield)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T17:46:19.143" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T17:46:19.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24937" CreationDate="2015-07-01T18:03:33.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, when you control Guile and counter a spell, you can cast that spell immediately, no matter what type it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To explain, I'll need to give a little background. The Magic rules are fundamentally constructive in nature: they define all of the parts of the game and procedures, then list the things you are allowed to do, and then subtract the things you are not allowed to do (not necessarily written in that order). For example, there are rules that define your hand and battlefield, and cards, and permanents, and the land type. Then there is a rule that says when you are allowed to play a land, and what restrictions there are on taking that action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if we consider the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Creature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules regarding the Creature type&lt;/a&gt;, we see that rule 302.1 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who has priority may cast a creature card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Casting a creature as a spell uses the stack. (See rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not say that you are &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; allowed to cast it at other times. If something else &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; allow you to cast a creature spell at another time, there's nothing stopping you from doing so. Now, the third step of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;resolving a spell or ability&lt;/a&gt;, 608.2c, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. However, replacement effects may modify these actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you control Guile and counter a Creature spell, Guile's replacement effect modifies the counterspell's instructions to say that you exile the spell and you may cast it. Now you have another instruction giving you an option to cast a (particular) creature spell, in addition to the option provided by rule 302.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing rules for other types is worded similarly to 302.1, so this same logic applies to other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T18:19:26.520" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T18:19:26.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24942" CreationDate="2015-07-01T18:17:32.677" Score="1" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; shows a board layout on page 4.  At the right side are the various investigator items (common and unique items, skills, spells, allies, etc). There are 11 cards stacked there. What is the bottom one that stands alone (not in a neat row of 5)?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jgFuo.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It vaguely looks like the bank loan card but the title and word spacing implies to me that it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T18:42:38.593" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T19:42:08.443" Title="In Arkham Horror, what card is shown on the bottom right of the board display of the rulebook?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24941" CreationDate="2015-07-01T19:30:48.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can come up with is that it's supposed to be a discarded bank loan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0ivtm.png&quot; alt=&quot;bank loan&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The paragraphs aren't 100% the same, but they're close. Pretty much the only substantial difference is the title, and putting the whole title on one line seems like an obvious thing to do. Seems likely they just didn't go update the image in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say discarded because it's face up, and because the bank loans are the third card in the right column there. You can see the Bank of Arkham image on the back. That's also consistent with it being set apart from the others. (Of course, discarded cards are &lt;em&gt;supposed&lt;/em&gt; to be discarded back to the bottom of the deck they came from, but maybe they weren't careful about making that image.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a bit of a reach to make that inference, but there aren't really other good options. It's definitely the only small card in the base game that looks like that, and even the expansions I have don't include anything else similar. Bottom line, if that's not a bank loan, it's not anything that matters. There's not something else that looks almost exactly like a bank loan that you're missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, unless you're lucky enough to have a really huge table, I wouldn't bother splitting up all the odd investigator-related cards (Retainer, Deputy cards, etc) like they do in that picture. They're the kind of thing that you'll use at most a few times in the entire game, and most often just one or none, so you can just keep them all in a pile and go fish one out when you need it. Spreading out the location cards and giving each investigator some space seems much more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T19:42:08.443" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T19:42:08.443" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24943" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24944" CreationDate="2015-07-01T20:47:23.617" Score="7" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an ability says, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;return&lt;/strong&gt; X from Zone A to Zone B&lt;/em&gt;, can the ability only be used if &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; was in &lt;em&gt;Zone B&lt;/em&gt; previously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, consider the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226565&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton's&lt;/a&gt; ability text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}{B}: Return Reassembling Skeleton from your graveyard to the battlefield&#xA;  tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was forced to &lt;em&gt;discard&lt;/em&gt; a Reassembling Skeleton from my hand or library, am I prohibited from &quot;returning&quot; it to the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, can the &quot;return&quot; ability be used at any time? Or only during the turn in which the card entered the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-01T23:31:21.393" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T23:31:21.393" Title="Does &quot;return&quot; from graveyard to Zone X require a card to have been in Zone X?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24943" CreationDate="2015-07-01T21:07:15.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an ability says to &quot;return&quot; a card from one zone to another, the card &lt;strong&gt;does not&lt;/strong&gt; need to have ever been in the zone it is &quot;returning&quot; to. &quot;Return&quot; is just the word they use on Magic cards to describe moving between certain zones (graveyard to battlefield or hand, battlefield to hand). &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Zones)&quot;&gt;Rule 400.7&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card in the graveyard doesn't &lt;strong&gt;count as&lt;/strong&gt; the same object as the card in your hand or the permanent on the battlefield, and it doesn't &lt;strong&gt;know&lt;/strong&gt; what zone it used to be in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability itself is just an activated ability that can be activated if the card is in your graveyard. Like any other activated ability, you can activate it any time you have priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-01T21:07:15.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24946" CreationDate="2015-07-01T21:10:50.317" Score="5" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice and Nathan are playing a friendly game of magic in a tournament run at Competitive REL. They run into a situation that they don't quite understand, and so they call for a judge. Jason arrives, hears the situation, and now needs to hand down his ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jason notices that a trigger was missed that would affect his ruling if it were noticed. Should Jason simply assume that the trigger was missed while making his ruling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Actual Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alive controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bloodfire%20Expert&quot;&gt;Bloodfire Expert&lt;/a&gt;. Nathan taps three Mountains and casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; (which only costs {1}{R}). Alice casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stubborn%20Denial&quot;&gt;Stubborn Denial&lt;/a&gt;, thinking that Nathan has no mana to pay. Nathan pays for it, and Alice calls for a judge because Nathan forgot to announce that he had remaining mana in his pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jason arrives, and notices that Alice did not mention the Prowess trigger on Bloodfire Expert. If she had remembered the trigger, Stubborn Denial would simply counter the Lightning Bolt because Alice would meet the conditions for Ferocious. What questions should Jason ask, and how should Jason rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:32:38.960" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:32:38.960" Title="Should a judge assume that any triggers not mentioned have been missed when providing a ruling?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24945" CreationDate="2015-07-01T22:21:56.083" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jason should feel free to ask questions that may reveal that a trigger was missed, or even to ask directly whether an ability triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One kind of &amp;quot;free information&amp;quot; as defined in in section 4.1 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_17jul15_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Details of current game actions and past game actions that still affect the game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This includes abilities that created continuous effects that still affect the game state, like the Prowess ability in the example would have if it triggered. That section of the rules then makes the following statements about judges and free information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players must answer all questions asked of them by a judge completely and honestly, regardless of the type of information requested. Players may request to do so away from the match.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judges are encouraged to help players in determining free information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anything, the last sentence seems to &lt;em&gt;encourage&lt;/em&gt; Jason to ask whether a triggered ability triggered, if it affects his ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if Jason's questions &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; remind the player of a triggered ability that they had in fact forgotten, Jason may have to make another ruling about whether the trigger actually counts as missed. But neither the possibility of giving that reminder nor the possibility of having to make that ruling should deter Jason from asking any questions that are relevant to the ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T18:20:30.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18605" CreationDate="2015-07-02T08:29:10.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been playing the game now for almost a year. Have gotten to the finals in a store championship and won some private tournaments amongst my meta (about 6-8 players) :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer my own question,  it would be the lannisters due to the sheer amount of kneeling effects that they have. Martell would be a close second in terms of annoying events and the general 'negative play experience' it gives to your opponents via icon stripping and challenge denial&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T08:29:10.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24951" CreationDate="2015-07-02T10:57:08.353" Score="0" ViewCount="2298" Body="&lt;p&gt;as I understand when 2 players playing no Limit Hold-em&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;dealerButton&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smallBlind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;bigBlind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; goes All-In at the preflop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smallBlind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; opens the game and he CALL.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;how does the game move forward? (does the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smallBlind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; have the option to see the flop-turn-river by keeping checking or betting on his own sidepot?) or does the game end as soon as the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;smallBlind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; makes his first choice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13061" LastActivityDate="2021-07-05T04:12:17.177" Title="Bet process when 2 players and Big blind is all in on the Pre-Flop" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24950" CreationDate="2015-07-02T13:13:48.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the big blind goes all in that leaves the small bline with one chose if they would like to continue and see the hand and that is to call the bet by either going all in if they don't have enough to cover the bet or call it by betting the required amount. This is similar to if the big blind did a raise on the pre flop as the small blind would still need to match the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case betting would end, both players would reveal their cards and the dealer would play the deck until all 5 cards have been played and a winner has been determined. There would be no side pot as in a two player game there is no other player to bet against so the only money that could be in the side pot would be the small blind's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T13:13:48.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24898" CreationDate="2015-07-02T14:02:21.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look at the setup charts for each country, some territories have &quot;Industrial Complex&quot; listed of one of the units to be placed.  I suspect that they were not printed directly on the board because they could then get covered up by other pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find a copy of the setup charts at &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/resources-downloads/setup-chart-axis-allies-1942-second-edition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.axisandallies.org/resources-downloads/setup-chart-axis-allies-1942-second-edition/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T14:02:21.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24953" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24955" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:11:17.430" Score="1" ViewCount="10792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Euchre for years.  Often a group of us finds ourselves one player short of the required 4.  We then usually joke that we should play Canadian Euchre, which apparently allows rules for playing the game with three people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this even a real thing?  Has anyone ever played it?  I imagine it would be cut-throat, but I can't think of how it might work outside of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9788" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T20:04:51.563" Title="Euchre played by a group of 3 people" Tags="|euchre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24953" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:26:13.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three person Euchre is definitely a real thing and there are ten different ways to play it, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euchre_game_variations#Three_players&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;according to Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;. They pretty much all rely on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Setting extra cards aside as a dummy hand (more rarely, removing cards from the deck or adding cards to the kitty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having players keep track of points individually, since they don't have a consistent partner (if they have a partner at all)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one you described, Canadian Euchre, is indeed one of those ways, (it is also called Buck Euchre, especially in the Midwest of the United States, where I have indeed seen it played).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Four hands are dealt out, one to each player and one face down on the table. The dealer turns up the top kitty card, as usual, and this card is automatically trump; there is no bidding for trump. Instead, each player has the option, in clockwise order starting at the dealer's left, of playing the dealt hand or the blind hand on the table. If the player picks up the blind hand, he places his hand face down on the table and that becomes the new blind hand. Interesting play results if two (or more) players pick up the blind hand because the original owner of the hand knows what they have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When bidding gets to the dealer, the dealer picks up the trump card and play begins. Normal Euchre play now applies, with each player on their own. At the end of the hand, each player gets one point for each trick taken. If a player takes no tricks, he loses five points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another one that I find is pretty common (at least in my region) is &amp;quot;Three Hand Dummy&amp;quot; Euchre, in which you set aside cards as if you had a fourth player, but just ignore them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another common three-player variation is played by dealing out four hands, but with the fourth hand acting as a dummy hand, known in different places as &amp;quot;the dummy,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;the dead hand,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;the imaginary friend,&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Johann.&amp;quot; The player who calls trump on the current hand picks up the dummy hand and makes the best five-card hand for themselves out of his or her hand and the dummy hand. The player will now play alone against the other two players, who will play as partners for this hand. The two non-calling players will always play as partners which means that partners will switch from hand to hand depending on who calls trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The calling player will score one point for winning the hand and 2 points for taking all five tricks. The calling player can still elect to &amp;quot;go alone&amp;quot; by choosing not to pick up the dummy hand. Taking all five tricks here results in four points. Each player keeps their own score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T16:38:12.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24953" CreationDate="2015-07-02T16:27:15.030" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a joke. In Canada, when Dealer's partner orders Dealer up &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Euchre_variations#Going_alone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the dealer must play alone&lt;/a&gt;, with partner's hand returned to the deck. This optional rule is referred to as &quot;Order Alone&quot; or &quot;Canadian&quot;, varying by region. It makes for a more challenging and interesting game, and is standard across Canada. I have never played without it since first encountering it in my pre-teens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus to play &lt;em&gt;Canadian Euchre&lt;/em&gt; would be tantamount to Dealer having to play alone every hand, either picking up the Top Card or declaring some other trump suit. In contrast to playing &lt;em&gt;Canadian&lt;/em&gt; with four players, I suspect this would rapidly degenerate into an attempt to avoid dealing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group is interested in stepping up to a slightly more challenging game, I would strongly recommend &lt;a href=&quot;http://halfwisehalfwit.blogspot.ca/2012/03/9-5-2-what-great-3-handed-card-game.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nine-Five-Two&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (also called &lt;em&gt;Sergeant Major&lt;/em&gt;)a s far and away the best three-handed trick-taking game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2018-04-01T20:04:51.563" LastActivityDate="2018-04-01T20:04:51.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-02T18:04:02.753" Score="1" ViewCount="301" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the Beast can move 5 spaces on a turn, but can attack the Agent only&#xA;  if it shares the same space that turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this means that the beast can only attack the Agent it shares a space with if it moved 5 spaces that particular turn. However...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the Beast moves less than 5 spaces, does it attack from a distance like normal?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T15:02:49.397" Title="Can the Beast attack from a distance?" Tags="|specter-ops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24959" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24961" CreationDate="2015-07-02T18:41:44.300" Score="2" ViewCount="2465" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, the &lt;em&gt;-8 ability&lt;/em&gt; for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383300&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Liliana Vess&lt;/a&gt; says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put all creature cards from all graveyards onto the battlefield under&#xA;  your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;em&gt;sounds&lt;/em&gt; distinct from casting/summoning, and there's no casting cost paid, which might imply (to me) that there's no summoning sickness. But, these creatures are also technically &lt;em&gt;entering&lt;/em&gt; the battlefield, which implies that those abilities would trigger. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the creatures enter without summoning sickness?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do &quot;when this card enters the battlefield&quot; abilities activate?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other potential &quot;casting&quot; or &quot;playing&quot; abilities that could trigger?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:04:37.233" Title="What state and trigger events apply when you &quot;put creatures onto the battlefield?&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24959" CreationDate="2015-07-02T18:46:09.710" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is distinct from casting or summoning. It is placing the creature onto the battlefield without casting. Normally creatures enter the battlefield by casting, but it's not the only way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't trigger any &quot;when you cast&quot; abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creatures enter the battlefield, so they trigger &quot;When this creature enters the battlefield&quot; abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature wasn't under your control since the beginning of the turn, so they have summoning sickness. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T18:46:09.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24959" CreationDate="2015-07-02T18:58:53.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When/whenever this/a creature enters the battlefield [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... triggers when it enters the battlefield. It wasn't on the battlefield, and then it was. Moving things from the graveyard to the battlefield with Liliana counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When/whenever you cast [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... triggers when you cast a spell. Moving things around with Liliana doesn't count as casting a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When/whenever you play [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... triggers when you play. Playing means casting a spell or playing a land. Moving things around with Liliana doesn't count as playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you haven't controlled a creature since the beginning of your turn, then it has summoning sickness. If Liliana moves a creature from your graveyard to the battlefield, then it hasn't been under your control since the beginning of the turn, and so it has summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-02T19:04:37.233" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:04:37.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24962" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24963" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:04:49.617" Score="9" ViewCount="37374" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the MTG rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. &lt;em&gt;A creature's activated ability &lt;strong&gt;with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost&lt;/strong&gt; can't be activated unless the creature&#xA;  has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her&#xA;  most recent turn began&lt;/em&gt;. A creature can't attack unless it has been&#xA;  under its controller's control continuously since his or her most&#xA;  recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &quot;summoning&#xA;  sickness&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I correctly understand then that &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; abilities, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370682&quot;&gt;Gnawing Zombie&lt;/a&gt;'s ability can be used immediately after being placed onto the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}{B}, Sacrifice a creature: Target player loses 1 life and you gain&#xA;  1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T00:20:51.707" Title="Can abilities with no &quot;tap/untap&quot; cost be activated while a creature has summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:23:19.717" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24962" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:07:50.220" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct. Activated abilities may be used whenever you have priority as long as you can pay the cost and aren't forbidden to. The tap/untap symbol as part of the cost can prevent you (from summoning sickness). Having to use an ability restricted to sorcery speed can prevent you. Other than that (less any other restrictions), it's fair game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T16:36:49.917" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:36:49.917" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24965" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:12:20.673" Score="0" ViewCount="256" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that you have a character or deed in play that does not have the non-unique keyword (which are most dudes and deeds), and another card of the same name in your hand. You would not be able to play this second one because the character is unique. Similarly, if the card on the table is aced, you still cannot play the same card because it is unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what happens if you have a unique card in play and then you try to ace the duplicate in your hand, either intentionally through something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/01057&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gomorra Parish&lt;/a&gt;, or forcibly through something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://dtdb.co/en/card/05038&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This'll Hurt in the Mornin'&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this permitted? Does anything happen when you have a dude in play and then a duplicate gets aced to Boot Hill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T04:48:20.577" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T04:48:20.577" Title="Acing a copy of a unique card that you have in play" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24964" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:12:20.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing special happens and the unique character in play is permitted to remain in play, despite a duplicate being added to Boot Hill. The uniqueness rule only applies to bringing cards into play, not to cards that are already in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can put more than one copy in your deck, but you can’t bring a unique card into play if you own another card with the same name that is either already in play or in your Boot Hill. (DTR Rulebook, Page 14 Uniqueness)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is corroborated by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=375&amp;amp;t=114319&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a ruling on the AEG forums&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:12:20.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24962" CreationDate="2015-07-02T19:42:53.287" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, any activated ability with no &amp;quot;Tap&amp;quot; symbol in the cost is fair game, as JonTheMon's answer states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wanted to mention, however, that if it's a targeted tapping, you can still tap that creature while it's summoning sick. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heritage%20Druid&quot;&gt;Heritage Druid&lt;/a&gt; states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tap three untapped Elves you control: Add GGG to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can tap summoning sick Elves, including Heritage Druid, to activate this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12202" LastActivityDate="2015-07-02T19:42:53.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24968" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-02T22:15:38.610" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Resistance Avalon can be played by 5-10 players. It is a game of deduction and deception. And is between 3-5 rounds. An entire game usually takes about 30 minutes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To start the game each player is dealt a character card which indicates if they are a Loyal Servant of Arthur or a Minion of Mordred. Everyone then closes their eyes and certain characters find out information about others. For example all of the Minions find out who each other is. After the reveal phase the rounds begin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each round the leader makes a team, everyone votes on the team and then if the team passes the quest proceeds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of each round the leader becomes the person to the right of the current leader. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of players on a quest varies from each round and depends on the number of players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Majority rules when voting if a team should go on a quest. If playing with 8 players and 4 vote yes for a team and 4 vote no the team does not go on the quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the quest phase each person who was on the quest team either fails or passes the quest. For a quest to fail just one member must choose to fail it (or in some specific rounds 2 people). Loyal servants must pass all quests or else it breaks the game. Minions can fail or pass any quest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 3 teams get voted down in a row the Minions get a point. If 5 teams get voted down in a row the Minions automatically win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Resistance Avalon varies from The Resistance in that it has additional character cards that give that player more information or special powers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Merlin is a Loyal Servant and knows who the Minions of Mordred are. If the Minions lose, but can correctly identify Merlin they win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Percival is a Loyal Servant and knows who Merlin (and Morgana) is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mordred is a Minion, but Merlin doesn't know who they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morgana is a Minion and appears as Merlin. Percival will see 2 people but won't know who is Merlin and who is Morgana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Assassin is a Minion and is the one who gets to guess who Merlin is if the Minions lose the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="12903" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T08:51:14.923" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:51:14.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24969" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-02T22:15:38.610" Score="0" Body="The Resistance Avalon is a variant of The Resistance. It is a social deduction game for 5-10 players. Each player is dealt a loyalty card indicating whether they are a Loyal servant of Arthur or a Minion of Mordred. Loyal servants must try to successfully complete 3 quests by choosing a trustworthy team of players. The Minions must try to make 3 of the quests fail by getting included in the quest team and sabotaging it. " OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="12903" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T08:46:51.237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T08:46:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24970" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T00:41:50.023" Score="0" ViewCount="393" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking to introduce a new player to the world of card and board games. This person shows an interest in getting into the hobby and after a conversation I was able to ascertain that she is a fan of superheroes. Playing primarily fantasy and sci-fi games myself, I don't know of any good choices to start off with. I want to keep to the superhero theme to help this new player engage more with the story, since it is something they are in to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bonus points if the game has an electronic version that can enforce rules without us having to remember them all, at least until they feel comfortable with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of complexity, I am probably looking for something more akin to Munchkin than Magic: The Gathering for a card game, or Forbidden Island rather than Arkham Horror for a board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13065" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:14:50.523" Title="Looking for a simple yet deep card / board game featuring superheroes to use as an introduction to games" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-07-03T22:48:50.773" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T00:44:14.273" Score="1" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in my Sliver deck I am running &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brood%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Brood Sliver&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heart%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Heart Sliver&lt;/a&gt;. Let's say they're both on the battlefield, and a sliver deals damage to a player. Could I declare the tokens made as attackers or is it too late?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry if this question probably has an obvious answer, it's just something I was wondering about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12104" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-04T01:48:59.617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T01:48:59.617" Title="Can I declare Brood Sliver's tokens as attackers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24971" CreationDate="2015-07-03T00:57:42.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't attack with those Sliver tokens the same turn you get them. In your combat phase, the following steps happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You declare what creatures are attacking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponents declare what creatures are blocking.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brood Sliver's ability triggers when a Sliver deals combat damage, so it is only in the Combat Damage Step that you get the tokens. At this point you have already finished dealing damage, so there's no chance to attack with the new tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T16:45:36.903" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:45:36.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24970" CreationDate="2015-07-03T01:19:07.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/102652/sentinels-multiverse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sentinels of the Multiverse&lt;/a&gt; is a cooperative card game that fits all of your needs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I want to keep to the superhero theme to help this new player engage more with the story, since it is something they are in to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The players in the game take on the role of superheroes who work together to fight a supervillain and their minions, all while dealing with an unstable environment that may help or hurt them. Each of the character's powers are reflected in the mechanics (e.g. Tachyon the speedster draws lots of cards, Ra the Egyptian god has a scepter and deals lots of fire-based damage).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bonus points if the game has an electronic version that can enforce rules without us having to remember them all, at least until they feel comfortable with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsdigital.com/buysotm.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an app version of the game&lt;/a&gt; for Windows, Mac, Android, and iOS that enforces all of the rules. It's not a rules helper, it's the whole game. After a a game or two, you'll definitely know the rules, but I personally think that the real game has a low enough learning curve that you should be fine without it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In terms of complexity, I am probably looking for something more akin to Munchkin than Magic: The Gathering for a card game, or Forbidden Island rather than Arkham Horror for a board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well if it's any indicator, both Munchkin and Forbidden Island are recommended for ages 10 and up and Sentinels of the Multiverse is recommended for ages 8 and up. Personally I think that the game is about as complicated as those two, but hey, the manufacturer thinks that it's simple enough to be played by younger players than those two games. While there are a lot of card effects, they tend to be pretty straightforward and since the game is fully cooperative, players can help each other out if they're having trouble keeping everything straight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question title also mentioned the game being &quot;simple yet deep.&quot; The rulebook rates heroes by complexity, so new players can play a hero with a lot of one shot effects while more experienced players can have depth by playing heroes with lots of ongoing effects that interact with each other. Also the fact that there are over a million combinations of heroes, environments, and supervillains (and more if you add the expansions) means that there is a lot of replay value and depth as you try different interactions between characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T01:34:20.773" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T01:34:20.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24974" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25018" CreationDate="2015-07-03T01:49:02.937" Score="3" ViewCount="996" Body="&lt;p&gt;The guide by The Esoteric Order of Gamers says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are on a space with 1 or more monsters, you must resolve a single combat encounter against each monster there, one at a time, in the order of your choice. Each non-epic monster must be encountered before each epic monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not familiar with this source, so is there a definitive reference in the quick reference or rulebook or some officially released errata that confirms this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T14:02:42.447" Title="In Eldritch Horror, do epic monsters have to be encountered before non epic monsters?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24962" CreationDate="2015-07-03T03:05:12.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Activated abilities are formatted something like this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Costs]:Effects. Additional Restrictions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures (without haste) have summoning sickness, which prevents you from paying the tap cost of its own activated abilities, as well as from declaring that creature as an attacker during the Combat phase. Because of that, you cannot pay the cost of tapping the creature, and so you cannot activate the ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Skyl3lazer mentioned in their answer, there are abilities that have the cost of tapping unspecified creatures of your choice, usually with a requirement like a creature type(i.e. Tap 7 untapped wizards you control, Tap 3 untapped Elves you control, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same way, you can use creatures with Summoning Sickness to pay the costs for cards with the Convoke ability, which allows you to tap any untapped creatures you control to pay for 1 generic mana, or for one mana of any of that creature's colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13067" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T00:20:51.707" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T00:20:51.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24987" CreationDate="2015-07-03T05:50:53.727" Score="2" ViewCount="952" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the flying monster is in a street area with no investigators and there are no investigators in a connected street area, it moves to the Sky. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this imply if it is in a location area with no investigators in sight, such as when a gate opens, it goes to the sky? Is there a supporting reference for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T11:44:56.100" Title="In Arkham Horror, where do flying monsters in location areas go when no investigator is near?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24992" CreationDate="2015-07-03T06:35:00.223" Score="1" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dragon's Eye says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Phase:&lt;/strong&gt; Exhaust and lose 1 Sanity after drawing a gate or location card to draw a new card in its place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the investigator owning it must be the 'first player' in order to affect the drawn gate card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:07:28.267" Title="In Arkham Horror, can my investigator only use Dragon's Eye on the drawn gate if she is the 'first player'?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24978" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25000" CreationDate="2015-07-03T07:51:33.597" Score="5" ViewCount="833" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I the outskirts is already at maximum capacity, and I have to add 5 more monsters because of a monster surge, do I empty the Outskirts and then add 4 monsters? More specifically, does the monster that put the outskirts &quot;over the edge&quot; get discarded (the alternative being he gets carried over to the next group of outskirts monsters)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T03:24:36.967" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T03:24:36.967" Title="In Arkham Horror, if a monster surge exceeds the max allowable monsters, does the monster that caused the max to be exceeded get discarded?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24995" CreationDate="2015-07-03T08:08:10.957" Score="3" ViewCount="303" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the action &quot;All Cthonians and Dholes in Arkham are returned to the cup,&quot; does this include the outskirts and sky spaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: since these creatures cannot fly, this question is more about whether such monsters in the outskirts would be returned, i.e. whether they are considered &quot;in Arkham&quot;. Short of finding some rules reference, I would think the fact that gate closing affects monsters from the outskirts would make it likely removing creates &quot;in Arkham&quot; implies the outskirts as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T01:21:21.937" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T01:21:21.937" Title="What spaces are considered not 'in Arkham'" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24980" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24994" CreationDate="2015-07-03T08:36:15.850" Score="0" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the text in question from the Celeano world:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On a failure, a monster appears from the book. On a success, you are drawn into the book for a time. Stay here next turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the last sentence sort of seems to follow from being drawn in for a time, but I'm used to considering separated sentences as always being applied (pass or fail). What is the ruling here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:16:52.777" Title="In Arkham Horror, does a third separate instruction after a pair of pass/fail clauses imply that it occurs in both cases?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24993" CreationDate="2015-07-03T08:52:15.670" Score="0" ViewCount="128" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the generic question is whether combat bonuses can be compounded at all or if it works like Eldritch Horror where '+' bonuses are only ever used for one item while re-rolls can be compounded. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:09:29.590" Title="In Arkham Horror, can Shrivelling be used to compound bonuses?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24989" CreationDate="2015-07-03T09:00:07.503" Score="0" ViewCount="131" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a 2-investigator game, if he rolls 3 successes, does the remaining success get accumulated toward the next doom token removal? Along the same vein, if he rolls 4 successes, does he remove 2 tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T11:56:36.583" Title="In Arkham Horror, do 'leftover' successes after triggering a doom token removal still count?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-05T22:41:53.607" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25004" CreationDate="2015-07-03T09:02:39.090" Score="1" ViewCount="153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the token passes at the end of the turn, and the awakening goes immediately to the awakening, do we skip passing the first player token for the first attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T04:46:29.120" Title="When the ancient one awakens, do we pass the first player token?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="24988" CreationDate="2015-07-03T10:06:02.547" Score="1" ViewCount="462" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the number of open gates that triggers the awakening of the Ancient One reduces as the number of players increase, and the number of roaming monsters in Arkham increases as well, so there is the crowdedness factor that seems more perilous. Also, there are two monsters per gate opening when there are 5+ investigators. Are there other factors? These factors don't seem as significant or maybe as linearly ramped as the balancing factors in Eldritch Horror where clues, gates, surges, and mystery requirements scale with every 2 added investigators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T02:36:52.473" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T02:36:52.473" Title="What elements of Arkham Horror balance the difficulty across the number of players?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24985" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T10:29:26.527" Score="2" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature's toughness were to reach 0 before the stack is finished resolving, does it die, or does the stack finish. For example, if a Llanowar Elf had Gigantic growth cast on it and the growth was responded to by Dismember what would happen? Would Dismember bring it to 0 and Gigantic raise it to 3 before it could die? Or does it bite the dust?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13070" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:16:31.787" Title="Toughness and the Stack" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24985" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:26:34.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature would die and go to the graveyard immediatly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Others spells targeting it can not resolve themselves so they are like countered, they go to the graveyard too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8157" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T11:26:34.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24976" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:44:56.100" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Flying monsters can be in one of three places when the action to move them may occur:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Location&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Streets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sky&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is in a location or the streets, the monster moves to a &lt;strong&gt;connected&lt;/strong&gt; street location if there is an investigator there. If there is no investigator, it goes to the sky&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is in the sky, it moves to &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; street location which contains an investigator. If there are no investigators in any street locations, it does not move. When there are multiple investigators, it goes to the investigator with the lowest current sneak value. If there is still a tie, the first player decides where it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The below is a quote from version 1.7 of the FAQ. The latest version (2.0) can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/9b/2a/9b2a9f8f-0b42-45ba-bcd2-87dc55c68f5f/complete_arkham_horror_faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (it's approx. 25mb PDF.):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Flying monsters only move when their symbol comes up in the Mythos Phase, just like other monsters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Flying monsters will not leave a space that already contains an investigator.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When a flying monster in a street area or location moves, it will either move to an adjacent street space that has an investigator in&#xA;  it, or failing that, move to the Sky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When a flying monster in the Sky moves, it will move to any street space on the board with an investigator in it. If there’s more than&#xA;  one investigator to choose from, the monster moves into the space of&#xA;  the investigator with the lowest Sneak value. If the investigators’&#xA;  Sneak values are the same, the first player chooses which investigator&#xA;  the monster moves toward, as usual. If there are no investigators in a&#xA;  street space, the monster remains in the Sky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T11:44:56.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24984" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:51:11.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'limits' that change with more players are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum number of monsters on the board before they go into outskirts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum number of monsters in the outskirts before the terror track is moved&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum number of gates that can be open at any time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maximum number of monsters that trigger the awakening of the Great Old One once the terror level has reached 10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-07-03T19:34:06.947" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T19:34:06.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24982" CreationDate="2015-07-03T11:56:36.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, left over success rolls do carry over, but the number of success required depend on the GOO that you are facing and the number of players. Also, if the GOO awakens, you always fill up the doom track if it wasn't already full. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is quote from the FAQ which you can find on the FFG Arkham Horror website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To defeat the Ancient One, the players must do a total number of&#xA;  successes equal to the number of players multiplied by the number of&#xA;  doom tokens on the Ancient One. So, if 4 players are facing Yig (doom&#xA;  track of 10), they need 40 successes to win. For every 4 successes&#xA;  they do, they remove 1 doom token to track their progress. If the 12&#xA;  investigators get 9 successes in the first round of combat, they would&#xA;  remove 2 doom tokens, and 1 success would carry over to the next round&#xA;  of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T11:56:36.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32834" CreationDate="2015-07-03T12:04:59.283" Score="3" ViewCount="288" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I had a game where I was infected by The Thing and drew a Panic! card (Forgetful) which states that I should discard 3 cards and draw 3 more. What happened was that after that Panic! card I had to discard my 3 not infected cards (since I am infected I can't discard the one I have) and I drew 3 Stay Away which happened to be infected cards so I was left with 4 infected cards, but the rules state that you can't have more than 3 in your hand in any given time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I thought of was that if a Panic! card doesn't say that it ends your turn you can draw again and continue as normal, but that is not also a viable solution to the problem, because the next card might still be Infected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has any of you encountered this situation? Can you give me an idea of what solution I may apply to this bug?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8194" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T17:41:19.823" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T17:41:19.823" Title="&quot;Stay Away&quot; how to handle case with 4 Infected cards" Tags="|stay-away|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24985" CreationDate="2015-07-03T12:07:13.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the creature would die as a State Based Action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.1. State-based actions are game actions that happen automatically whenever certain conditions (listed below) are met. State-based actions don't use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, &amp;quot;Timing and Priority&amp;quot;), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the state based effects would get checked after Dismember resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, this SBA would happen&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it's put into its owner's graveyard. Regeneration can't replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, before the Giant Growth would get a chance to resolve, the Llanowar Elf would die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12202" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:16:31.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24977" CreationDate="2015-07-03T12:07:28.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this item does not affect the gate tokens as they are placed by the &lt;strong&gt;Mythos Cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is referring to &lt;strong&gt;gate encounter&lt;/strong&gt; cards that you draw when you are in an other world location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the rules contains the contents of the game and the gate cards are listed separately to the gate tokens and mythos cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:07:28.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24981" CreationDate="2015-07-03T12:09:29.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, combat bonuses are cumulative as long as you do not exceed the 'hands' requirement. Shrivelling requires 1 hand so this rules out other two handed weapons or spells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Skill bonuses such as Fight+1 will also come in to effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:09:29.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24980" CreationDate="2015-07-03T12:16:52.777" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the rest of this cards text is relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pass a Luck (-1) check or the book is a prison. If you fail, roll a&#xA;  die. On a failure, a monster appears from the book. On a success, you&#xA;  are drawn into the book for a time. Stay here next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you basically only deal with the consequences if you fail the luck check (due to the book being a prison). The consequences of failing are either bad or worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pass the first roll, good for you! If not, roll and then if you fail again, you have to face a monster, otherwise, you just get delayed for one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you can extract some hard and fast rule regarding the sentence structures without looking at them in context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T12:16:52.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24979" CreationDate="2015-07-03T12:23:47.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AHfaq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Sky is considered part of Arkham (since it is on the Arkham board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A monster that is arriving in Arkham is moved to the Outskirts if its arrival would exceed the monster limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the sky is considered part of Arkham. The outskirts are never considered part of arkham. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, it is impossible for Cthonians and Dholes to get to the sky)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T18:34:24.847" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:34:24.847" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24970" CreationDate="2015-07-03T16:14:50.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, seeing as you mentioned both Munchkin and Superheroes, how about... &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/16933/super-munchkin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Super Munchkin&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Seems a bit of a cheat to give that answer... and doesn't work if you want actual known superheroes rather than create-your-own ones).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:14:50.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24933" CreationDate="2015-07-03T16:16:48.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, just the total number of placements is far too huge to &quot;solve&quot;, and that doesn't even start to take into account movements occurring between placements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T16:16:48.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T19:58:23.897" Score="4" ViewCount="1611" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite clear from the base game rules that normal &lt;strong&gt;asset cards&lt;/strong&gt; are put in a separate discard pile when they are discarded, whereas &lt;strong&gt;condition cards&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;spell cards&lt;/strong&gt; are shuffled back into the deck when discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mountains of Madness expansion introduces a new deck of &lt;strong&gt;unique asset cards&lt;/strong&gt;, which have similarities both to normal assets and to conditions/spells. What happens when &lt;strong&gt;unique asset cards&lt;/strong&gt; when they are discarded? Are they put into a separate discard pile, or reshuffled back into the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T12:48:19.050" Title="Is the unique asset deck reshuffled when cards are discarded?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="24999" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-03T20:18:30.480" Score="5" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;unique asset deck&lt;/strong&gt; in Mountains of Madness expansion features two cards which only have an effect if you are on the Antarctica Side Board. What if I am playing against an Ancient One from the base game? Should these components be returned to the box in that case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastEditorUserId="12884" LastEditDate="2016-11-11T06:09:36.273" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T06:09:36.273" Title="What to do with &quot;Antarctic Guide&quot; and &quot;Dog Sled&quot; while playing against an Ancient One from the base game?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-mountains-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24978" CreationDate="2015-07-03T23:01:50.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. See this example from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official Arkham FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, p.12 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a 3-player game, the  monster limit is 6  and  the  maximum number&#xA;  of monsters in the Outskirts is  5. There are 3 open gates on the&#xA;  board, 6 monsters in  Arkham, and 4 monsters in the Outskirts. During&#xA;  the  Mythos Phase, you draw a location that already has  an open gate,&#xA;  so you have to draw 3 more monsters.  You would first draw 2 monsters&#xA;  and place them in the  Outskirts. The Outskirts limit would be &#xA;  exceeded  upon  placing the second monster, so you would then increase&#xA;  the terror level by 1 and return the six monsters in the  Outskirts to&#xA;  the cup. &lt;strong&gt;Finally, you would draw the third  monster and place it in&#xA;  the Outskirts&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2015-07-03T23:01:50.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25002" CreationDate="2015-07-03T23:42:26.670" Score="5" ViewCount="1995" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been thinking about integrating &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Flare&quot;&gt;Mana Flare&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Reflection&quot;&gt;Mana Reflection&lt;/a&gt; into a deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, by reading the Layer's rules (rule 613).  They resolve in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, if Mana Flare is played first, and Mana Reflection is played second, each mountain I tap would give me {R}{R}{R}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if Mana Relfection is played first, and Mana Flare is played second, each mountain would  give me {R}{R}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this interpretation correct?  I'm still new to this layer stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T01:59:01.953" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:51:26.883" Title="How do Mana Flare and Mana Reflection interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25001" CreationDate="2015-07-04T00:01:53.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Layers don't apply here. There aren't any continuous effects interacting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana Flare is a triggered ability (it says &quot;whenever&quot;). It would normally use the stack, but since it's a mana ability, it simply resolves immediately after the event that triggered it. Mana Reflection is a replacement effect (it says &quot;instead&quot;). It just happens as you tap the permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you tap a Mountain, Mana Reflection causes it to produce RR instead of R. Mana Flare also triggers, and when it resolves, you add an additional R to your mana pool, for a total of RRR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if they were both replacement effects, or both triggered, layers still wouldn't come into play. You'd get to pick the order, presumably choosing to maximize the generated mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two replacement effects apply to the same event, the affected player picks what order to apply them in. (If the event affects an object, that's the controller of the affected object, or its owner if it has no controller.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two triggered abilities you control trigger at the same time, you choose the order to put them on the stack. If they're controlled by different players, the active player puts their triggers on the stack first. (If they're mana abilities like this, you still get to pick the order, even though they don't use the stack.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, if they're both affecting you tapping a permanent for mana, you get to pick what order they happen in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Layers are used for determining interactions of continuous effects, which are effects that are simply stated as a fact, something like &quot;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1&quot; or &quot;Target permanent becomes blue&quot;. Fortunately, the most common time they matter is with power/toughness effects, and the vast majority of those are simply setting base power/toughness before applying things that change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can get a pretty good idea of the kinds of things where layers matter by simply reading what the layers are: copy, control-changing, text-changing, type-changing, color-changing, ability-adding/removing, and power/toughness. If the effect isn't in in one of those categories, it's a good bet you don't need layers. (Timestamp order is only used within layers as a last resort.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T18:34:48.417" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:34:48.417" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25001" CreationDate="2015-07-04T00:04:18.573" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The timestamp of the two is irrelevant in this case; tapping a mountain with these two permanents will always produce a total of {R}{R}{R}. The reason is that Mana Flare doesn't actually increase the mana the mountain itself produces: it's a triggered ability that triggers when the mountain is tapped instead of a replacement effect. When you tap a mountain for {R}, Mana Reflection replaces this with putting {R}{R} into your pool, then Mana Flare puts an additional {R} from its trigger, for a total of {R}{R}{R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, even if Mana Flare was a replacement effect with something like &quot;If a land you control would produce mana, it produces that mana and an additional mana of any type it produced instead&quot;, the timestamps still wouldn't matter: you get to choose which order the replacement effects apply in without worrying about timestamps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T18:51:26.883" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:51:26.883" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24983" CreationDate="2015-07-04T02:57:27.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for The Final Battle (page 22 of the rulebook) state that the first player token should be passed at the start of the turn, when the investigators refresh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Investigators Refresh&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of a round of combat with an Ancient One, the investigators may refresh their cards, use any character abilities, and adjust their skill sliders as though it were the Upkeep Phase. &lt;em&gt;Next, the first player marker should be passed to the left&lt;/em&gt;. Finally, they may trade items among themselves as if they were in the same location (see “Trading Equipment” later in these rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T04:46:29.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:04:29.253" Score="2" ViewCount="991" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a couple games of Crisis Mode from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/155428/dc-comics-deck-building-game-crisis-expansion-pack&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Crisis Expansion (Pack 1)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/125678/dc-comics-deck-building-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;DC Comics Deck-Building Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; with one, two, and three players. While we like the cooperative mode of it (it always seemed weird in the base game that the heroes were competing against each other), the biggest issue we have is that the game takes so long. While the base game takes about 45 minutes, the Crisis Mode has never taken less than 2 hours (and once almost made it to 3 hours).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason it takes so long of course is that we have to go through so many villains and their crisis events. If we reduce the number of those, then the game would be faster but would be easier because it means you're less likely to run out of the deck cards. So I'm not sure that this is feasible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What houserules can we employ to make Crisis Mode take an hour or less without reducing difficulty? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-07-04T22:17:02.277" LastActivityDate="2017-07-04T22:17:02.277" Title="How can I make a Crisis game go faster?" Tags="|house-rules|dc-comics-deck-building|dc-comics-deckbuilding-crisis|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25006" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:12:21.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chicago Express&lt;/em&gt;, formerly published as &lt;em&gt;Wabash Canonball&lt;/em&gt;, is a board game with no luck factor in which players compete to expand their railroad network. &lt;em&gt;Wabash Canonball&lt;/em&gt; was published in 2007 by Winsome Games and &lt;em&gt;Chicago Express&lt;/em&gt; was first published in 2008 by Queen Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:39:24.440" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:39:24.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25007" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:12:21.290" Score="0" Body="A board game with no luck factor in which players compete to expand their railroad network." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T00:20:16.830" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T00:20:16.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25008" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:16:38.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Manila&lt;/em&gt; is an economic speculation game in which players compete to gain the most profit from good shipments. The English version was first published in 2005 by Gigamic, Rio Grande Games, and Zoch Verlag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:39:27.047" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:39:27.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25009" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:16:38.393" Score="0" Body="An economic speculation game in which players compete to gain the most profit from good shipments." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T18:41:01.473" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:41:01.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25010" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:25:33.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;12 Days&lt;/em&gt;, also called &lt;em&gt;The 12 Days of Christmas&lt;/em&gt;, is a Christmas-themed trick-taking game where players trade presents in order to maximize points. It was first released in print and play form in 2011 by Cheapass Games and published in 2012 by Gamesmith, LLC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T18:41:09.900" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:41:09.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25011" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-04T03:25:33.217" Score="0" Body="A Christmas-themed trick-taking game where players trade presents in order to maximize points." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T22:40:08.453" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:40:08.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25013" CreationDate="2015-07-04T06:09:34.193" Score="0" ViewCount="1595" Body="&lt;p&gt;The location spaces have two icons, on the lower left and right. What do they stand for, what items you tend to earn in location encounters? And why are some inverted in color (white and black versus black and white)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T06:18:18.600" Title="In Arkham Horror, what are the two symbols at the bottom of location spaces?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25012" CreationDate="2015-07-04T06:18:18.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, those are things that are more likely to come up in encounters there. It's no guarantee, though. This is described in detail in the rules in the section titled &quot;Location Icons&quot; on the last page of the rules, along with a lot of other helpful summary information. The key part is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each location on the map also has several icons associated with&#xA;  it. These icons tell the players the most likely outcomes they can&#xA;  expect when they go to that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that they're just the most common. Other rewards are possible as well, as are all kinds of nasty stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inverted ones are things you can get by using the special encounter at the location. They're still more likely to come from encounters as well. For example, the Curiositie Shoppe has an inverted unique item icon, reminding you that you can purchase unique items there, and they're also possible to get from encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some locations have special location icons that have their colors reversed, such as the Sanity icon on Arkham Asylum. These icons indicate that there is a guaranteed method of acquiring the described item at that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T06:18:18.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25014" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25047" CreationDate="2015-07-04T07:50:47.487" Score="2" ViewCount="447" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure what 'losing a turn' is. Is it identical to being lost in space and time in that nothing, even monsters, affects you or fights you? Does being sucked into a gate that appears then convert me to simply being delayed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here is some documentation I found in the Dunwich Horror rules which implies that being drawn into a gate nullifies and previous delays and lost turns and 'resets' it in a way while retaining any possible benefits earned for the previous cost/penalty of delay/turn-loss. It likely means the accepted answer's latter section on what to do in these more complicated situations should be modified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A link to the Dunwich Horror &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/DH_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (part of interest on page 10)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: If an encounter, when failed, tells the investigator he must “stay here for 2 turns and gain 2 Clue tokens” but before the 2 turns have ended a gate appears at the location and draws the investigator into an Other World, does the investigator lose the 2 Clue tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No. The investigator immediately receives the Clue tokens when he or she agrees to meet the requirements of the encounter. If a gate opens in the meantime, the investigator is sucked through the gate and becomes delayed in the Other World. He no longer has to miss two turns if sucked through on the first – the new condi- tion (being delayed in the Other World) is in effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T19:34:48.630" Title="In Arkham Horror, if I lose a turn and then am drawn into a gate, am I then only delayed?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25023" CreationDate="2015-07-04T07:55:20.920" Score="0" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lost in time and space says I lose my turn but then also says I am delayed and stand up during the movement phase. Does this mean I stay out of an &lt;strong&gt;entire&lt;/strong&gt; turn of the game ignoring upkeep, movement, encounters and then in the movement phase &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; that I stand up in the movement phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:48:09.633" Title="How does losing a turn work in Arkham Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25016" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25039" CreationDate="2015-07-04T09:38:46.857" Score="4" ViewCount="1037" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I finish my third mystery during an encounter phase, but then Doom track reaches 0 during the related mythos phase, do I win the game? Or does the Ancient One awaken and I need to solve the final mystery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T16:18:32.590" Title="Completing the third mystery during the same round as Doom track reaches 0" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25017" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25022" CreationDate="2015-07-04T09:53:06.020" Score="0" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;The item in mind is the Enchanted Jewelry which can prevent one stamina damage any phase (and gets discarded once 3 stamina tokens have piled up on the card). Does this mean it can only be used to prevent 1 stamina loss during that phase, or can I prevent 3 damage at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T17:55:50.873" Title="In Arkham Horror, can &quot;Any Phase&quot; actions be performed multiple times immediately?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24974" CreationDate="2015-07-04T13:24:46.920" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is taken from the rules of the Forsaken Lore expansion pack. Those rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The &lt;em&gt;Forsaken Lore&lt;/em&gt; expansion adds new rules as described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Combat Encounters&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;During the Encounter Phase, an investigator must encounter each non-Epic Monster on his space before encountering each Epic Monster on his space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note however, that this is the opposite of this question title. Epic Monsters should be encountered last, not first, according to the expansion rule set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13064" LastEditorUserId="13064" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T14:02:42.447" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T14:02:42.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24958" CreationDate="2015-07-04T14:13:35.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1356692/beast-and-prophet-clarifications&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek thread&lt;/a&gt;, the designer clarified that if the Beast moves LESS than 5 spaces, he can still attack from a distance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T14:13:35.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-04T15:58:35.120" Score="0" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two creatures in the field:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/2 creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/2 creature with 2 +1/+1 counters on it,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scale%20Blessing&quot;&gt;Scale Blessing&lt;/a&gt;. Does it work on the creature that has more than one +1/+1 counters on it? With the result being:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/2 creature w/ +2/+2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2/2 creature w/ +2/+2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;? Please help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T20:25:11.887" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:25:11.887" Title="In what order does Scale Blessing place counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25020" CreationDate="2015-07-04T17:15:20.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll end up with a 2/2 with two +1/+1 counters, and a 2/2 with three +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two separate things to do, in the order they're written on the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bolster 1: put a +1/+1 counter on the 2/2 that doesn't have any counters yet. (It's your creature with the least toughness.) You now have one creature with one counter, and one with two. It's good for you that the bolster comes first, because next...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Put a +1/+1 counter on &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; creature that has a +1/+1 counter on it. It says &quot;each creature that has a +1/+1 counter on it&quot;, not &quot;exactly one +1/+1 counter&quot;, so that's both of your creatures! Now you have one creature with two counters, and one with three.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's true that the reminder text for bolster is at the very end, but it's just a quick explanation of what bolster means. The actual text instructing you to bolster 1 is is the first thing on the card, so it's the first thing you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T00:33:07.007" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T00:33:07.007" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25017" CreationDate="2015-07-04T17:55:50.873" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only reason that you would be unable to repeat the &quot;Any Phase&quot; ability on a card is if you must exhaust the card to use the ability (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Dragon%27s_Eye&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dragon's Eye&lt;/a&gt;), or if it explicitly says that you can only use the ability once per turn (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Mandy_Thompson&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mandy Thompson&lt;/a&gt;'s ability). Since the Enchanted Jewelry meets neither of these conditions, it can be used multiple times per turn, including repeatedly from the same attack. The same also applies to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Shotgun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shotgun&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T17:55:50.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25015" CreationDate="2015-07-04T18:48:09.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; Being lost in time and space means that during your next turn, you skip all phases, including Upkeep. The only exception is during that same turn's Movement Phase, you simply stand up your token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; Here is the text on what happens when lost in time and space (core rulebook, pg. 17):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any investigator who is lost in time and space is immediately moved to the Lost in Time and Space area of the board. The investigator is now delayed, and the player should place the investigator marker on its side. The investigator loses his next turn, remaining in the Lost in Time and Space area. The player may only stand his investigator marker back up during the Movement Phase. On the following turn, at the start of the Upkeep Phase, the player may move his investigator to any location or street area of his choice in Arkham.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the order is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immediately go to the Lost and Time and Space area and become delayed (place your character sideways to mark that, as usual).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your next turn, stand your character up during the Movement phase as normal for being delayed. As an extra rule for Lost in Time and Space, you skip all other phases (this is what is meant by &quot;lose your next turn&quot;). There are no encounters you can take anyway so skipping the Encounter Phase is moot, and there is no Upkeep phase (good if you want to stay Blessed, bad if you were hoping for income from a Retainer). This is confirmed by &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/181821-do-you-take-an-upkeep-phase-when-lost-in-time-and-space/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a topic on the Fantasy Flight Arkham Horror forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During the Upkeep phase of the following turn, you move your investigator to any location or street area in Arkham and continue with your turn as normal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T18:48:09.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25026" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:32:14.597" Score="1" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played magic in forever and I need some clarification on a rule.&#xA;Let's say I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arrest&quot;&gt;Arrest&lt;/a&gt; on a creature my opponent controls. Then on his turn he returns the creature to his hand. Now I'm wondering what happens to my arrest,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it get assigned to a new creature? or does it go to my graveyard since the target that got picked is now no longer valid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T19:43:26.777" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T19:43:26.777" Title="What happens to an unattached Aura?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25027" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:37:07.150" Score="0" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;An anomaly yellow alert card reduced the players' available action points by 1. Once someone removes the anomaly, do they automatically get another action point, i.e. the formerly reduced point, to use that turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T22:05:21.203" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T22:05:21.203" Title="Does removing an anomaly that reduces an action point give back the lost point for that turn?" Tags="|the-captain-is-dead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25024" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:37:31.393" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the creature that the Arrest is attached to leaves the battlefield, the Arrest goes to your graveyard because it is not attached to anything. There are several conditional actions that you check every time anyone gets priority called &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;State-based actions&lt;/a&gt;. One of those, specified in rule 704.5n is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-04T19:42:44.453" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T19:42:44.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25025" CreationDate="2015-07-04T19:54:39.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, once the anomaly is removed the normal action limit is restored giving the player back the action they did not have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-04T19:54:39.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25029" CreationDate="2015-07-05T01:48:02.137" Score="10" ViewCount="7922" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've happened upon a new scenario I didn't realise was possible: I attack or block with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJackal%20Pup%5d&quot;&gt;Jackal Pup&lt;/a&gt;, and after blockers are declared, I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bZedruu%20the%20Greathearted%5d&quot;&gt;Zedruu the Greathearted&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBazaar%20Trader%5d&quot;&gt;Bazaar Trader&lt;/a&gt; to give the Jackal Pup to another player. I'd like to make sure I understand this interaction properly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jackal Pup and the creature it's blocking or being blocked by still exchange damage as usual. It doesn't leave combat. Jackal Pup will deal a bunch of damage to whoever I gave it to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can even hand Jackal Pup to the player blocking it or attacking me, and that will still hold true. (They'll then control two creatures who exchange combat damage with each other!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a creature was declared attacking me (or my planeswalker), it is still doing so even after I block it with Jackal Pup and hand someone else control of it. If that creature has trample, the damage will go to me.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I understand this correctly? (These are some fun hijinks, if they work like they seem to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-05-17T15:12:14.667" LastActivityDate="2017-05-17T15:12:14.667" Title="Changing control of an attacking or blocking creature mid-combat" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25028" CreationDate="2015-07-05T02:01:33.773" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that is not correct. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_Phase?cookieSetup=true&quot;&gt;Rule 506.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A permanent is removed from combat&lt;/strong&gt; if it leaves the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;if its controller changes&lt;/strong&gt;, if it phases out, if an effect specifically removes it from combat, if it's a planeswalker that's being attacked and stops being a planeswalker, or if it's an attacking or blocking creature that regenerates (see rule 701.12) or stops being a creature. A creature that's removed from combat stops being an attacking, blocking, blocked, and/or unblocked creature. A planeswalker that's removed from combat stops being attacked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T02:02:36.803" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T02:02:36.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25030" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25032" CreationDate="2015-07-05T03:11:16.010" Score="7" ViewCount="863" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Robo Rally, if I don't end in but rather drive through a pit, do I die? Instructions seem to literally say if they move into, but I'm not clear if it's strictly if they end there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T11:50:22.043" Title="If I drive through a pit, do I die?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25033" CreationDate="2015-07-05T04:45:46.283" Score="6" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a pusher pushes me onto a conveyor belt, do I then apply the movement of the belt on my robot as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T04:54:05.083" Title="In Robo Rally, do robots that get pushed onto a conveyor by a pusher also move via conveyor?" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25030" CreationDate="2015-07-05T04:50:07.403" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you drive over a pit, gravity wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a game, not a cartoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; page 8. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destruction: A robot is destroyed when: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It receives its tenth Damage token.  OR &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It moves or is moved into a pit.  OR &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;It moves or is moved oﬀ the edge of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original version, there where pits that could be opened and closed, not sure if they still exist. But these where safe when closed but deadly when open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-07-05T11:50:22.043" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T11:50:22.043" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25031" CreationDate="2015-07-05T04:54:05.083" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The order of board element movement is in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf&quot;&gt;rules (page 6)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Express conveyor belts move 1 space in the direction of the arrows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Express conveyor belts and normal conveyor belts move 1 space in the direction of the arrows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pushers push if active.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gears rotate 90° in the direction of the arrows.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The belt moves first. So if you are pushed on the belt, you are not also moved because it has already moved this phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T04:54:05.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25034" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25069" CreationDate="2015-07-05T09:14:28.587" Score="2" ViewCount="364" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Shadowrun: Crossfire, you draw a new Crossfire card after each round. On it are events, which have to be resolved. If you play the Extraction mission, each round new obstacles are revealed, which may have flipped actions that have to be resolved. Which comes first, a new Crossfire card or new obstacles? The order influences the results in some situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2017-05-12T16:41:46.233" LastActivityDate="2017-05-12T16:41:46.233" Title="Which is resolved first, new obstacles or new crossfire level in Shadowrun Crossfire?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25035" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25036" CreationDate="2015-07-05T10:15:16.243" Score="5" ViewCount="2192" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I played my first game of Agricola and I was amazed how great game it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But one thing  is not clear to me, when owing Fireplace / Cooking Hearth, can I trade for example 2 x vegetable for 4 food (or for example 3 sheep for 6 food) in one Fireplace ? Or is it allowed to trade only one vegetable / animal for food ? And can I trade vegetables and animals at the same time ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I played with my friends yesterday we played so that we can convert as many vegetables/animals for food as we can. But when I reread rules I've noticed line saying: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may own several Fireplaces and Cooking Hearths.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So why would I build more Fireplaces / Cooking Hearths if I can convert as many vegetables / animals to food in my turn ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13078" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T03:30:50.910" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T03:30:50.910" Title="Agricola: Fireplaces and Cooking Hearths" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25035" CreationDate="2015-07-05T13:09:57.280" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use each as much as you want. The reason to own more than one is mostly if you get a better one later when you could only afford a cheap one earlier; or to deprive other players of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T13:09:57.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2015-07-05T15:19:04.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you are playing with the Antarctica side board, those cards are usable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the expansion rules, page 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When playing with the &lt;em&gt;Mountains of Madness&lt;/em&gt; expansion, add&#xA;  all expansion components to their respective decks or pools&#xA;  of &lt;em&gt;Eldritch Horror&lt;/em&gt; components except for the components&#xA;  described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[unrelated items skipped]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shuffle all Unique Assets to create the Unique Asset deck.&#xA;  Place this deck faceup near the Asset deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5019" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T15:19:04.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25016" CreationDate="2015-07-05T16:18:32.590" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mysteries I've encountered are only solved at the end of the mythos phase, so, if doom is advancing, it would awaken the ancient one before mythos ends and the mystery is completed. If all mysteries follow this format, then my interpretation is you must flip the ancient one and follow the instructions on the back despite completing the requirements save for waiting until the end of the mythos phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Doom section of the quick reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Doom reaches the “0” space of the Doom track, the Ancient One awakens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Ancient One section of the quick reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the Ancient One awakens, the investigators must complete the Final Mystery on the back of the Ancient One sheet in addition to the other Mysteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T16:18:32.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T19:21:30.447" Score="5" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our last game, the &quot;play all but one&quot; rule was into play .&#xA;But also a rule (dutch fluxx) that said the one with the most keepers can play one more card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean he can play all his cards, or should he still keep one left in his hands? (Translated into English the dutch card reads: Save one card in your hand and play all the rest.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13079" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T18:05:41.900" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T22:23:45.040" Title="Play all but one rule is into play. What if play one extra card rule is also in play?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2015-07-05T20:17:01.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you have your own answer ready. The rules for Fluxx tend to stack. You're absolutely right, that one person has to play all of his/her cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player in question has 6 cards on hand and 'play 5' is on the table, as well as the Jet-Set Bonus, does he get to play all his cards? This question is not really different from yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T20:17:01.387" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T20:39:58.007" Score="0" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheltered%20Aerie&quot;&gt;Sheltered Aerie&lt;/a&gt; enchantment aura on one land. Does the mana that get added while it's tapped stay after your end phase? Does the mana keep adding up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T20:25:44.463" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:25:44.463" Title="How does Sheltered Aerie work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25050" CreationDate="2015-07-05T21:58:13.213" Score="2" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poison Spit adds poison counters to other players. If I run out of poison counters, can I keep giving them, ie use other tokens to represent them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T01:53:36.143" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:58:35.503" Title="Are there a limited number of counters that can be used?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25042" CreationDate="2015-07-05T22:25:58.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, your mana pool empties at the end of every step and phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;500.4. When a step or phase ends, any unused mana left in a player’s mana pool empties. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing exceptional about the mana from Sheltered Aerie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:25:58.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25042" CreationDate="2015-07-05T22:29:07.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, all players' mana pools get emptied at the end of every step and phase of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;500.4. When a step or phase ends, any unused mana left in a player’s mana pool empties. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[%22mana%20pool%22]+[empty]&quot;&gt;some cards&lt;/a&gt;  that let you keep some or all of your mana, but they always state that clearly in the card text, and Sheltered Aerie is not one of those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-07-05T22:29:07.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-05T23:22:37.990" Score="3" ViewCount="213" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Revised Edition of Dungeon Quest.  I remember playing the original edition, and the dragon deck automatically shuffles if there are no heroes inside the treasure chamber.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I can't find anything in the revised rules for when the dragon deck shuffles.  Reading the &quot;Dragon Rage&quot; card, it seems the deck shuffles whenever someone draws that card and waked the dragon.  In the original version, drawing that card forced everyone out of the treasure chamber, and &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; caused the deck to reshuffle as a side effect.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the revised edition, does the dragon deck shuffle when there are no heroes in the treasure chamber?  Or only when someone is unlucky enough to wake the dragon?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:27:15.147" Title="When does the dragon deck shuffle?" Tags="|dungeonquest|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25014" CreationDate="2015-07-06T05:24:44.547" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Losing your turn is &lt;strong&gt;different&lt;/strong&gt; to being delayed. Being delayed means you cannot do anything during your &lt;strong&gt;movement phase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have lost your turn, you skip &lt;strong&gt;all phases&lt;/strong&gt; (including upkeep) except for the Mythos phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: If a card tells you to “lose your next turn,” does this mean skip&#xA;all phases, including Upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Yes, all phases except the Mythos&#xA;Phase. Note that this is different from being told to “stay here next&#xA;turn,” which means you are delayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your original question, based on the above, I would say you can only get sucked in to the gate that appears as part of the Mythos phase and then you have both lost a turn AND are delayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your next turn, you cannot stand as that normally happens in the movement phase. You also do not have any encounters. The turn after that, you get to stand and have encounters. The following turn will be when you can actually move. This way, you still have at least 2 encounters in the other world (unless you get lucky - but to be in this situation, you need to be really unlucky)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T05:58:42.950" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T07:49:21.107" Score="1" ViewCount="1396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusory%20Gains&quot;&gt;Illusory Gains&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torch%20Slinger&quot;&gt;Torch Slinger&lt;/a&gt;. Does my opponent get to do his kicker and damage my creature, or do I gain control of the card prior to the kicker ability and I do the kicker, or is the kicker canceled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13081" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T16:41:54.180" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:04:44.303" Title="Order of triggered abilties" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25048" CreationDate="2015-07-06T08:45:13.523" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your opponent will get to choose the target of the damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, players put triggered abilities on the stack in APNAP order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b &lt;strong&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;APNAP&quot; rule means &quot;active player, non-active player&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case, your opponent is the active player and casts a creature with kicker. When the creature enters the battlefield, your enchantment and the kicker ability trigger at the same time. You control the enchantment trigger and your opponent controls the kicker ability. Your opponent chooses the target for the damage and puts the ability on the stack, then you put the enchantment trigger on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enchantment trigger resolves first and you gain control of the new creature. However, that does not change the controller of the kicker ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3a &lt;strong&gt;A triggered ability is controlled by the player who controlled its source at the time it triggered&lt;/strong&gt;, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even if your opponent loses control of the creature whose ability triggered, he will still control the kicker ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:45:13.523" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25043" CreationDate="2015-07-06T08:58:35.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't cover this, so you have to decide as a group. However, my advice is that there's no reason running out of tokens should limit the effect. You wouldn't run out in a 2-player game, so why should you run out when there are 6 players? If you have to give out 5 tokens and only have 3, how do you decide who gets one? The simplest solution is, as you said, just use something else to track them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T08:58:35.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25052" CreationDate="2015-07-06T11:13:26.507" Score="3" ViewCount="417" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a non-creature permanent turns into a creature until end of turn and attacks, does it remain tapped after it stops being one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sarkhan%2C%20the%20Dragonspeaker&quot;&gt;Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker&lt;/a&gt;'s first ability, then attack with him, and then end my turn, will Sarkhan remain tapped when he stops being a dragon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13082" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T19:48:08.197" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:48:08.197" Title="Does a permanent that was a creature until end of turn remain tapped after it stops being one?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25051" CreationDate="2015-07-06T11:26:57.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes: Being tapped/untapped is a part of the &lt;em&gt;status&lt;/em&gt; of a permanent and is independent of its type (creature/not creature) or other characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.6. A permanent’s status is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two possible values: tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, face up/face down, and phased in/phased out. Each permanent always has one of these values for each of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.6a Status is not a characteristic, though it may affect a permanent’s characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker will remain tapped even after your turn ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T18:19:07.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2560" CreationDate="2015-07-06T12:00:24.090" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Personally I like to have people learn the value of chapel early, so a subset of moat+militia, cellar/village, remodel, council room could be good in my opinion (depending on how much you like chapel/militia which). One setup that is nice could be most of these plus workshop, spy/woodcutter/moneylender. The importance is to vary the game. See which cards neither of you played and replace them with others (if you don't play them either, test replacing the ones you always play to change the dynamic). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T12:00:24.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2297" CreationDate="2015-07-06T13:44:17.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has to be one of either two ways, and can't be both.  The card reads &quot;after each action card is played&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1).  &quot;Played&quot; means put on the table.  E.g.  I play double feature but the moment I put it on the table the spy moves to the end, and I collect the next two nobles (not the spy).  E.g. 2  I play reverse the order of the line, the moment I put it on the table the spy moves to the end, then the line reverses and I collect the Spy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2). &quot;Played&quot; means the execution of the text on the card.  E.g. I play reverse the order of the line and execute the action, reversing the order, then the spy moves to the end. I do not get the spy.   E.g. 2  I play double feature and execute the action, collecting the master spy and the next noble, or a noble and the master spy depending on their order.  I get the spy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has to be one or the other.  It rests on the definition of the word &quot;played&quot;.  Either reversing the order works or double feature works, but not both or neither. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13083" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T13:44:17.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25056" CreationDate="2015-07-06T15:34:46.927" Score="0" ViewCount="130" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a player join an active game after the pre-flop?&#xA;if so what would be the conditions? (for example if he sits between the &lt;em&gt;smallBlind&lt;/em&gt;  and the &lt;em&gt;bigBlind&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13061" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T04:11:37.223" Title="Can a player join after the preflop?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25055" CreationDate="2015-07-06T15:51:02.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. A player can join a game before cards are being dealt. In that event he usually pays an out-of-turn big blind to avoid people joining the game at opportune moments or skipping the blinds.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;House rules may apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T15:51:02.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25048" CreationDate="2015-07-06T15:51:46.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torch%20Slinger&quot;&gt;Torch Slinger&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield, assuming it was kicked, two abilities will trigger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An enter the battlefield trigger from Torch Slinger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An enter the battlefield trigger from Illusory Gains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order in which they resolve does not matter. The outcome is the same either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent controls the first trigger. When it resolves, Torch Slinger will deal two damage to a target that your opponent chose. It does not matter who controls Torch Slinger when the trigger resolves, because the trigger exists independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You control the second trigger. When it resolves, you will gain control of Torch Slinger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-06T19:04:44.303" LastActivityDate="2015-07-06T19:04:44.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25059" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:42:00.987" Score="8" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you always need to keep track of what cards have been drawn in a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is because of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sylvan%20Library&quot;&gt;Sylvan Library&lt;/a&gt;. While it's on the battlefield it's pretty obvious that you have to do it because you can put back any card you've drawn that turn back on top of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what about when Sylvan Library is not on the battlefield? I can't find any rules about it. As far as I have known people are are allowed to shuffle the cards in their hand and I've seen it happen a lot as a tactic to confuse your opponent. But what about the following corner case situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Orrery&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and no &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sylvan%20Library&quot;&gt;Sylvan Library&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In you upkeep you cast some spells that let you draw some cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You shuffle your hand a bit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still in your upkeep you cast Sylvan Library&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sylvan Library triggers in your draw step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what? you have no way of telling what cards you have drawn in your turn. This seems to suggest that at all time you need to set the cards you've drawn aside. Can anyone clarify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T12:37:15.177" Title="Do you always need to keep track of what cards have been drawn in a turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25058" CreationDate="2015-07-06T18:53:22.257" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If both players can't verify which cards were drawn that turn any unverified cards cannot be returned to the top of the library with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sylvan%20Library&quot;&gt;Sylvan Library&lt;/a&gt;. If you think you might be playing a Library with Flash be sure to keep track of which cards you have drawn that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2012/12/best-practices-for-handling-sylvan-library-at-competitive-rel/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Judge Rules Blog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here’s the Official ruling that has been handed down for Competitive REL events where Sylvan Library is legal: “Players will not have an option to return a card that can’t be proven to have been drawn this turn.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T12:37:15.177" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T12:37:15.177" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25060" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-06T22:04:26.917" Score="11" ViewCount="22643" Body="&lt;p&gt;In regards to turning in Risk cards, the rule book says if you have five or six cards you must turn in at least one set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is why do they give you the option of five or six?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have five cards you will have a set of three. You can only get one card per turn so you would never move from 4 to six in one turn. It seems a bit confusing.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I was playing with a group and there was a disagreement about this and my opponent said he was going to wait until he got six.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13088" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-02-06T09:52:52.297" LastActivityDate="2020-02-06T09:52:52.297" Title="Turning in cards when you have five or six cards" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25060" CreationDate="2015-07-06T22:35:49.170" Score="18" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can only get one card per turn so you would never move from 4 to six in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not true. The rules of Risk state that you get the cards held by an opponent if you eliminate them from the game. There is the additional condition: When you get enough cards from an opponent that brings you to six or more cards you must &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; turn in sets until you have four or fewer cards left over. (You must stop if you have four or three cards and have another set to turn in.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But consider the case where you start your turn with four cards, then eliminate someone with one card. You gain the card, giving you five cards. At the end of the tern, you've captured new territory so you draw another card. This gives you six cards at the start of your next turn!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So therefore it's possible to have up to six cards at the start of your turn, but no more than that. The rules explicitly state that if you have five or six cards, you must turn in a set. Having five cards and waiting for the sixth isn't playing by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T17:06:28.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:06:28.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25063" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:06:01.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A co-op game for 2-7 players who take a role on a ship that is under alien attack and the captain is dead. Each turn something else goes wrong for the crew who must solve all the issues and repair the jump core so they can escape before time runs out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T21:10:27.353" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T21:10:27.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25064" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-07T01:06:01.637" Score="0" Body="A co-op game for 2 to 7 players. The captain has died and the engines are down. The players must repair the engines and escape before the aliens that attacked and killed the captain overrun and destroy the ship." OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-17T21:10:27.353" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T21:10:27.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14273" CreationDate="2015-07-07T02:33:04.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a chess arbiter and I can confirm that this rule does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; exist whatsoever in the FIDE rules of chess. The only restriction to promotion is if it's an illegal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13091" LastEditorUserId="13091" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T19:52:41.280" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:52:41.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25066" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T02:55:56.600" Score="14" ViewCount="24332" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a red and black die in my pocket. The sides are a T, a Roman column, two people, a clock with x2, one person, and another T; each image is bordered by a circle. I have no idea what it's from; any help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13092" LastActivityDate="2019-12-15T01:09:19.883" Title="What board game does this die belong to?" Tags="|identify-this-game|dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25067" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25093" CreationDate="2015-07-07T03:00:54.727" Score="0" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Doomtown Reloaded&lt;/em&gt;, it is optional to have Jokers in your deck. However, it seems to me like having Jokers in your deck is extremely useful, since you are more likely to get a better hand in a shootout. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose that not having them in your deck means that there isn't a chance of having an unplayable card in your play hand, but that seems to be a small risk with many options for discarding cards. In fact, I have never played against any player who has &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; had Jokers in their deck, and those whom I have asked have always said it was better to have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would be the reasons for not having Jokers in a deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T04:41:39.790" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:48:15.190" Title="What would be the reasons for not having Jokers in a deck?" Tags="|doomtown-reloaded|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25066" CreationDate="2015-07-07T03:26:00.720" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;The die belongs to the 2013 version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1111/taboo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Taboo&lt;/a&gt;, which added the new &quot;game-changer die&quot;. You can see it in the picture below along with the other components of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wbUuv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Taboo 2013 game components&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a game variation, you can roll the die before each round and have a chance to play with an alternate rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T:&lt;/strong&gt; Play with standard Taboo rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roman Column:&lt;/strong&gt; You must be perfectly still, like a statue, while giving the clues. The person with the buzzer must turn the cards for you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two People:&lt;/strong&gt; Both teams guess as you give the clues, but still give tallies separately&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clock x2:&lt;/strong&gt; You get double the time and turn over the timer the first time it runs out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One person:&lt;/strong&gt; Only one person can guess during the round, instead of your whole team.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T03:32:24.610" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T03:32:24.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25034" CreationDate="2015-07-07T04:24:43.437" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that you've got your order of play mixed up a little bit. Let's review what the order of a round is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Draw a new Crossfire card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Each runner takes a turn, beginning with the starting&#xA;  runner. Play continues clockwise until everyone has taken a turn. The starting runner remains the same throughout the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The round is over. Repeat steps 1–3 until the game ends. (Rulebook, pg. 12)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missions go over the course of a number of Scenes. The Extraction mission has the following rules for ending a Scene:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mission Progress Track and Ending a Scene:&lt;/strong&gt; At the end of the Client’s turn, advance the mission-progress marker to the next round down on the track and follow the instructions for that step (see &lt;strong&gt;Obstacles and Crossfire&lt;/strong&gt;, above, for obstacle placement). (Rulebook, pg. 20)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a scene ends, and obstacles are drawn, immediately at the end of a Client's turn, which will happen during Step 2 of a round, and then will be followed by Step 3 when any end of round effects are resolved. A Crossfire card is then drawn during Step 1 of a round. So there will &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; be a conflict between new obstacles and new Crossfire cards because they happen during different steps of a round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if you end a turn with no obstacles (and therefore remove a Crossfire card), the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shadowruntabletop.com/shadowrun-crossfire-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadowrun: Crossfire&lt;/em&gt; FAQ&lt;/a&gt; clarifies that you do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; draw a new Crossfire card immediately, so again there will never be a conflict between a Crossfire event and obstacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; I’ve just ended a turn with no obstacles in play, so I remove the current &lt;em&gt;Crossfire&lt;/em&gt; card from play. Now I draw another one, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; No. You only draw a new &lt;em&gt;Crossfire&lt;/em&gt; card at the start of a round of play. Depending on when you removed the current &lt;em&gt;Crossfire&lt;/em&gt; card, it might still be several turns before you draw a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T04:36:15.283" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T04:36:15.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25070" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-07T04:39:25.640" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadowrun: Crossfire&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative deck-building game set in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shadowrun&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shadowrun&lt;/a&gt; universe. It was first published in 2015 by Catalyst Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T11:38:15.063" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:38:15.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25071" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-07T04:39:25.640" Score="0" Body="A cooperative deck-building game set in the Shadowrun universe." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T12:19:51.237" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T12:19:51.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25072" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-07T04:52:39.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Wings of Glory&lt;/em&gt; is a tactical air combat game with sets for World War I and World War II. It was formerly known as &lt;em&gt;Wings of War&lt;/em&gt; before being rebranded in 2012 by Ares Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T11:38:52.397" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:38:52.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25073" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-07T04:52:39.727" Score="0" Body="A tactical air combat game with sets for World War I and World War II. Formerly known as Wings of War." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T12:19:56.530" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T12:19:56.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25074" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-07T05:10:17.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Monopoly Millionaire&lt;/em&gt; is a variation of Monopoly where the first player to have a million dollars wins. It was published in 2012 by Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T11:38:42.873" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:38:42.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25075" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-07T05:10:17.073" Score="0" Body="A variation of Monopoly where the first player to have a million dollars wins." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T12:19:40.027" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T12:19:40.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25076" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-07T05:12:27.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Necromunda&lt;/em&gt; is a miniature skirmish game involving gangs fighting in a futuristic hive underworld. It was first published in 1995 by Games Workshop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T11:38:06.190" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:38:06.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25077" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-07T05:12:27.160" Score="0" Body="A miniature skirmish game involving gangs fighting in a futuristic hive underworld." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T11:38:19.563" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T11:38:19.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25078" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T06:53:05.260" Score="8" ViewCount="29111" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Narset%2C%20Enlightened%20Master&quot;&gt;Narset, Enlightened Master&lt;/a&gt;'s ability trigger twice if she has double strike, since she has an ability that says &amp;quot;When (she) attacks&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13093" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T11:02:02.387" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T21:38:10.937" Title="Does Double Strike mean you count as Attacking twice?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25078" CreationDate="2015-07-07T07:27:58.393" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger, &quot;Whenever ~ attacks&quot; means &quot;Whenever ~ is declared as an attacking creature&quot;. A creature with double strike will deal damage in the two combat damage steps, but will only be declared as an attacker once per turn. (Normally, unless some other effect is creating additional combat phases.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T07:27:58.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25078" CreationDate="2015-07-07T07:28:13.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Declaring a creature to attack only happens once per combat phase, no matter how often it deals combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[additional]+[combat]&quot;&gt;some cards&lt;/a&gt; that grant you additional combat phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with Double Strike would only trigger &quot;on dealing (combat) damage&quot; triggers twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-07-07T07:33:42.140" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T07:33:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24610" CreationDate="2015-07-07T10:36:33.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WORLD OF WARRIORS is a game for 2 players. The aim of the game is to defeat your opponent’s team of warriors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose 12 warrior cards each and place them face down into 3 piles of 4 cards. Decide who will go first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 picks their first warrior to attack with. If player 1's warrior's attack is greater than player 2's warrior's health, they win and place their card in the &lt;em&gt;won&lt;/em&gt; pile. The loser places their card in their &lt;em&gt;lost&lt;/em&gt; pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players should also compare elements. If player 1’s element is stronger than player 2 they can add their elemental power boost to their attack score. If player 2’s element is stronger than player 1 they can add the elemental power boost to their health score.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;fire&lt;/strong&gt; is strong against earth, and weak against water. Air has no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;earth&lt;/strong&gt; is strong against air, and weak against fire. Water has no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;air&lt;/strong&gt; is strong against water, and weak against earth. Fire has no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼￼water&lt;/strong&gt; is strong against fire, and weak against air. Earth has no effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there is a draw, refer to the &lt;em&gt;Armour&lt;/em&gt; score.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can use one talisman card per game. The talisman boost rating is added onto your warrior's attack or health score.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play continues, taking it in turns to attack the other warrior’s health.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12914" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T10:36:33.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25078" CreationDate="2015-07-07T17:35:54.980" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, it does count as attacking twice. According to the mtg wiki and some other referances, there is a first-strike attack phase and a regular attack phase. Take a look &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Double_Strike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here at the wiki&lt;/a&gt;. So, due to the fact that she is attacking twice, that power would be activated twice when you declare that she is attacking. If you do not believe me, take a look at some of these other questions where people have asked similar things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/273880-double-strike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Double Strike Creatures and Abilities&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/20366/will-double-strike-trigger-cipher-twice&quot;&gt;Triggering abilities Twice With Double Strike&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope I helped,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Nick&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13098" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T17:41:22.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25085" CreationDate="2015-07-07T18:18:18.773" Score="2" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very new to the game, and I have a basic question about the mechanics. Some spells have multiple abilities; for instance, the creature &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Azorius Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; has two abilities, and it is my understanding that you can play any one of them whenever you have priority and have enough mana to pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, spells with abilities that cost nothing confuse me. Take &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Intellectual%20Offering&quot;&gt;Intellectual Offering&lt;/a&gt;, for example. Are you forced to play both abilities when you cast the spell? Is that because those are &lt;em&gt;spell abilities&lt;/em&gt;, whereas in the first example above they are &lt;em&gt;activated abilities&lt;/em&gt;? Is the following outline of what is supposed to happen when you play that spell correct? (Assuming we have priority.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay the mana cost, add Intellectual Offering on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it resolves, do as instructed (choose one opponent for each ability and apply the effects).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the abilities are both spell abilities, they &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; go on the stack. So there is no counterplay possible once Intellectual Offering resolves. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T17:38:27.433" Title="Spells with multiple free abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25084" CreationDate="2015-07-07T18:34:14.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are you forced to play both abilities when you cast the spell? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Unless there are qualifiers (&quot;may&quot;/&quot;up to&quot; are popular ones), you must resolve all of a spell's effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is that because those are spell abilities, whereas in the first example above they are activated abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not quite. It is because you are never forced to activate (pay the cost) of an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the spell, you are rarely forced to cast a spell, but if you do choose to cast the spell, you must resolve all of the spell's effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is the following outline of what is supposed to happen when you play that spell correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've got it. Normally, as part of putting a spell on the stack, you must also choose all of the targets of the spell. These targets are then checked for validity upon resolution. But that particular spell doesn't target, you &quot;choose&quot; the opponent(s) upon resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since the abilities are both spell abilities, they don't go on the stack. So there is no counterplay possible once Intellectual Offering resolves. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can (nearly) always respond to a spell on the stack, but if the spell has multiple effects, you must resolve all of them (and they cannot be responded to any longer) once the spell starts resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T18:34:14.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25086" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-07T22:22:21.913" Score="2" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the card game Coup, assume that player 1 states they are the Captain and takes 2 coins from player 2. Then if player 2 challenges player 1 they risk losing 1 card. But if instead they block player 1 by claiming to be the Ambassador then they still risk losing only 1 card. Is that correct? If so, what's the difference? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13105" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:25:39.987" Title="Ambassador Counteraction in Coup" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25089" CreationDate="2015-07-07T23:22:13.260" Score="8" ViewCount="17737" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and my one opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeyline%20of%20Sanctity%5d&quot;&gt;Leyline of Sanctity&lt;/a&gt; and no creatures in play. I might still want to cast Lightning Bolt to delve it later or to buff up my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTarmogoyf%5d&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; or whatever. My question is...  can I cast Lightning Bolt without targeting anyone? Can I just decline to name a target and let the spell fizzle? Or if either I or my creatures are the only valid targets do I have to target myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T17:21:38.670" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T17:21:38.670" Title="Do you have to choose a target for a spell, or can you just cast it with no target and let it fizzle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25086" CreationDate="2015-07-07T23:25:39.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If player 1 takes an action then Player 2 has 3 options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They let the action go through&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can challenge the action and if they are correct then Player 1 loses a card, if they are wrong then Player 2 loses a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can claim a blocking action and that leaves Player 1 with the first two choices that Player 2 had.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What the big difference is that if Player 2 claims a block then the decision and risk of losing a card shifts back to Player 1. Which in the case that Player 2 is correct it would mean Player 1 could lose a card for the challenge. So it puts more risk on Player 1 then Player 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:25:39.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25087" CreationDate="2015-07-07T23:48:07.083" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot cast a spell without choosing all specified targets. In &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_Spells&quot;&gt;the process of casting a spell&lt;/a&gt;, we have these rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2.&lt;/strong&gt; To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. &lt;strong&gt;Casting a spell follows the steps listed below, in order. If, at any point during the casting of a spell, a player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the casting of the spell is illegal&lt;/strong&gt;; the game returns to the moment before that spell started to be cast (see rule 717, &quot;Handling Illegal Actions&quot;). Announcements and payments can't be altered after they've been made.&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires.&lt;/strong&gt; A spell may require some targets only if an alternative or additional cost (such as a buyback or kicker cost), or a particular mode, was chosen for it; otherwise, the spell is cast as though it did not require those targets. If the spell has a variable number of targets, the player announces how many targets he or she will choose before he or she announces those targets. The same target can't be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word &quot;target&quot; on the spell. However, if the spell uses the word &quot;target&quot; in multiple places, the same object, player, or zone can be chosen once for each instance of the word &quot;target&quot; (as long as it fits the targeting criteria). &lt;strong&gt;If any effects say that an object or player must be chosen as a target, the player chooses targets so that he or she obeys the maximum possible number of such effects without violating any rules or effects that say that an object or player can't be chosen as a target.&lt;/strong&gt; The chosen players, objects, and/or zones each become a target of that spell. (Any abilities that trigger when those players, objects, and/or zones become the target of a spell trigger at this point; they'll wait to be put on the stack until the spell has finished being cast.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you cast a spell, you have to choose legal targets to legally cast the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-07T23:48:07.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31764" CreationDate="2015-07-08T08:17:15.380" Score="6" ViewCount="6001" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00NX627HW&quot;&gt;the new edition of Carcasonne&lt;/a&gt; with the river and abbot mini expansion, are all the old expansions still going to be compatible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I'm looking for a compatible expansion that will add a 6th player and am wondering if &lt;a href=&quot;http://digitalsushi.co.za/index.php?route=product/product&amp;amp;product_id=31131&amp;amp;search=carcasonne&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Expansion 1 - Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals&lt;/a&gt;  will satisfy that. Surely this doesn't come with a 6th abbot piece for example (and I'm assuming different tile art as well?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/nouvelles-details.php?id=454&quot;&gt;New Edition FAQ&lt;/a&gt; I would guess that there is no sixth player abbot piece nor expansions with the new artwork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13107" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T14:39:55.133" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T21:10:21.013" Title="Are newer editions of Carcasonne compatible with older expansions?" Tags="|carcassonne|expansions|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25090" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:15:42.393" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the FAQ you linked, the tile backs are compatible. If you want to restrict yourself to the new art style just to make it look pretty, you certainly can, but you'll be limited to any expansions that get (re)printed with the new style in the future. So if you want expansions now, you pretty much have to ignore the art difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Among the older expansions, Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals is the expansion that actually adds the sixth player's basic meeples, so it's the only expansion that will really satisfy that need. True, it doesn't come with an abbot piece, but you can find a placeholder. (You could also omit the abbots entirely when playing with six players; people have been playing just fine without them for a long time!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other expansions are then compatible with Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals. For example Traders &amp;amp; Builders adds builder tokens and pigs, and they come in all six colors. Plenty of other expansions don't add anything player-specific at all, so they'll be fine as well. (I won't try to list them all right now; you can look at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Carcassonne_series&quot;&gt;a list&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, Carcassonne isn't exactly the best six-player game. You can end up with a lot of downtime between your turns unless everyone plays quickly. Each player also doesn't get to play very many tiles, which means they don't place very many meeples, they don't score very many times, and can't be very efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base game including the river is 84 tiles; if you get say Inns &amp;amp; Cathedrals (18 tiles) and Traders &amp;amp; Builders (24 tiles) you're up to 126, giving each player 21 tiles to play. Even if you play a meeple on every single tile the game will be 1/3 over before you get them all down. If you want to complete your cities, you'll probably be stuck making a lot of small ones. And it feels pretty random; with five other players taking a turn before you get to go again, you have very little control over the things you start to build. Rare tile shapes are basically impossible to get. (Good luck with the four-sided city tiles!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to play Carcassonne with six players and still have a serious game, I'd suggest playing with people who are familiar with the game and can play pretty quickly, and buying a lot more extra tiles. That might mean multiple copies of one of the large expansions or even the base game; you'd be buying them for the tiles, not for the extra mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:15:42.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25067" CreationDate="2015-07-08T16:48:56.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the vast majority of decks do in fact run Jokers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main exception is a deck that does not want to get into shootouts at all or make any pulls. This is typically a &quot;Landslide&quot; deck that focuses on playing more dudes &amp;amp; deeds than the opponent can deal with.  It often includes cards like Make the Smart Choice or Pistol Whip, seeking to remove everyone from a posse before it ever gets to comparing Draw Hands. In such a deck a Joker will be a dead card if ever drawn to your Play Hand so there is no point in including them at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11666" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T16:48:56.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-08T18:20:44.640" Score="0" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I take control of a black creature using a white deck, how do I pay the mana cost to attack if I don't have swamps in my deck? Please help, I'm new to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13111" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T04:04:30.047" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:57:41.180" Title="What happens when I gain control of a creature that's a different color from my deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25094" CreationDate="2015-07-08T18:35:03.283" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't need to pay mana to attack unless a card specifically says so. So, if you take control of a black creature using a white deck, you can attack with that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T18:35:03.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25094" CreationDate="2015-07-08T21:20:32.287" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only cost-like requirement to attacking is the tapping of the attacker. There is no mana cost. While &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22can%27t+attack+unless%22+or+o%3A%22can%27t+attack+you+unless%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;certain cards&lt;/a&gt; impose restrictions on attacking, and while some even impose a cost (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghostly%20Prison&quot;&gt;Ghostly Prison&lt;/a&gt;), the cost never requires colored mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many creatures have abilities that require colored mana to activate. If you control such a creature, and if you don't have the ability to produce mana of that color, you may not activate its ability. For example, if you control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Asphodel%20Wanderer&quot;&gt;Asphodel Wanderer&lt;/a&gt; and you have no means of creating black mana, you can't use its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-07-09T15:57:41.180" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:57:41.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25098" CreationDate="2015-07-08T22:23:47.273" Score="1" ViewCount="1517" Body="&lt;p&gt;Origins is being released soon, and I plan on going to the THG prerelease for the first time. Me and my partner have been running pull simulations to see what deck strats come up often. We are noticing that we often get cards necessary for the other's strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to trade them cards before the rounds start?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13113" LastEditorUserId="13113" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T22:43:19.377" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T22:45:01.593" Title="Two Headed Giant Sealed Events Card Trading" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25097" CreationDate="2015-07-08T22:33:10.013" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only are you allowed to share cards, you are as a team considered to have a single card pool that you build your decks from. Section 9.6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_16jun15_en_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Two-Headed Giant Limited Rules&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the rules for Limited Tournaments (Section 7) apply, except as described below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The DCI recommends that &lt;strong&gt;each team&lt;/strong&gt; receive eight boosters per team for Two-Headed Giant Sealed Deck tournaments and six boosters per team for Two-Headed Giant Booster Draft tournaments. For the recommended product mix for the current block, refer to Appendix D.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards not used in a team’s starting decks are considered a shared sideboard by the two players that both players can access.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-08T22:45:01.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25100" CreationDate="2015-07-08T23:26:35.913" Score="1" ViewCount="192" Body="&lt;p&gt;The community has King, King, Queen, Queen, 2.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Bob has 10, 7 in the hole.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Charlie has 3, 3 in the hole.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Bob win because he has high card, or does Charlie win because he pocket 3 pair?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13114" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-07-08T23:58:38.543" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T00:12:35.173" Title="Which hand wins" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-07-09T18:07:16.927" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25099" CreationDate="2015-07-09T00:12:35.173" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the pair of 3s doesn't matter.  You can't make 3 pairs with 5 cards.&#xA;Bob makes K,K,Q,Q,10.&#xA;Charlie makes K,K,Q,Q,3.&#xA;Bob takes the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T00:12:35.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25101" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-09T13:07:30.453" Score="3" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;This variant played as a normal Whist, with the last card dealt face-up to determine the trump suit.  the other suit with the same color as the trump suit is now the &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;point suit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.  For example, if hearts is trump, then diamonds is point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are there new rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get &lt;strong&gt;points&lt;/strong&gt; by how many point-suited cards your partnership has taken (same as in Hearts).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &amp;quot;&lt;strong&gt;breaking hearts&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;quot; rule - A player can not lead with a point suit until a point suit has been discarded. This rule to prevent the partners with high point suits from dominating the game early.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Point cards are anti-trump&lt;/strong&gt; - If a player leads with a point suit, then any other suit can trump it. (Trump will trump non-trump trumps, obviously).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Personal Note: This variation also makes use of the fact that there are four suits but only two colors in a traditional deck, which always bothered me a little.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any problems with this variation which make it unplayable, or unbalanced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to exploit the rules, or a way to play where understanding the rules more deeply conveys an advantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does this variation add to the complexity and fun of the game, or is it merely a complication which adds nothing unique or interesting to standard whist?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Would the game play better with only one of the rules rather than both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13116" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-04-11T06:30:29.597" LastActivityDate="2021-04-11T06:30:29.597" Title="Whist Variant with points suit" Tags="|variants|trick-taking-games|whist|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25103" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:03:54.050" Score="3" ViewCount="7769" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain precisely what this means (i.e. all the technical details)? I'm referring to cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Containment%20Priest&quot;&gt;Containment Priest&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hallowed%20Moonlight&quot;&gt;Hallowed Moonlight&lt;/a&gt;. I don't understand this mechanic at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:13:00.210" Title="&quot;If a creature would enter the battlefield and it wasn't cast...&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25102" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:13:00.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means exactly what it says, if a creature would enter the battlefield and it wasn't cast it will get exiled instead. It doesn't matter how it was cast, or where it was cast from, as long as it was cast instead of just being put onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of things that will cause a creature to be exiled due to those abilities are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rise%20from%20the%20Grave&quot;&gt;Rise from the Grave&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86ther%20Vial&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;ther Vial&lt;/a&gt;. These cards put creatures directly onto the battlefield without casting them, thus they will get exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples of things that will not cause a creature to be exiled due to those abilities are casting your commander from the command zone, casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gravecrawler&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt; from your graveyard using its ability, and casting cards with Suspend that had their last time counter removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Containment Priest specifies nontoken creatures, and Hallowed Moonlight does not. This means that the Priest will never exile token creatures and Hallowed Moonlight always will, since while you can cast a spell that produces tokens like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt; the tokens themselves were not cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:13:00.210" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25090" CreationDate="2015-07-09T15:33:19.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Carcassonne is very mutable.  But yes the new game is compatible with all the old expansions.  Including adding in a 6th or even a 7th or 8th player.  Of course the more players you add the more difficult it becomes to keep people focused on the game and have everyone enjoy it.  You can buy the extra pieces you need cover the 'missing' ones for extra players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most expansions come with the pieces for all six players, I don't know why on this latest version they went back to 5, unless they really feel 6 is becoming to awkward without at least several expansions to help increase the number of pieces everyone gets to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The artwork on the new set is different but it still matches up with all the older expansions.  But chances are you will need to buy they extra missing meeple separately. (or create your own tokens)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T15:33:19.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25106" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25107" CreationDate="2015-07-09T18:28:17.513" Score="2" ViewCount="524" Body="&lt;p&gt;Im guessing they cant because the book talks about retreats only in the &quot;general combat&quot; section; says nothing about sbr planes retreating, but i am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T06:21:04.253" Title="In a&amp;a 1942 2nd edition, can bombers conducting a strategic bombing raid and fighter escorts retreat?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25106" CreationDate="2015-07-09T21:10:51.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For &quot;strategic&quot; bombing, a bomber stays over the target for one round. That is, it survives, or not, depending on the roll of the die, and the damage it does is also determined by the roll of the die. After these two determinations, the bomber returns to its home square (if it survives).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For regular bombing, the bomber continues fighting as along as there are land forces making an attack. In this case, the attacker withdraws the bomber when either 1) the land forces retreat or 2) the land forces win and occupy the space. The bomber cannot land on the occupied space in the same turn (the airfields have been destroyed.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T21:10:51.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24898" CreationDate="2015-07-09T21:21:41.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Every country needs to have an industrial complex to build units. But every country starts out with at least one (America, Germany and Russia have two). So you don't need to build another one unless you have lost one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are Japan or England and you've lost your industrial complex (around your capital city), you're out of the game anyway (unless an ally recaptures your capital). If you're Russia, you can afford to lose Karelia, but not Moscow, if Germany, you can afford to lose Rome but not Berlin, and if America, you can afford to lose Los Angeles (the Western U.S.) but not Washington D.C. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T21:21:41.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2015-07-09T21:31:35.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, in both cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If aircraft are supporting a ground attack, they can be hit by anti-aircraft fire, but the player may choose to take infantry or tank losses before sacrificing aircraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the aircraft are defending a territory, it can be hit by infantry or tanks, but this will typically happen after the defender has lost all his less valuable infantry and tanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical matter, aircraft are seldom hit. That's because the player can choose which units to take as casualties, and will usually choose infantry or tanks. Aircraft become casualties only when the player has &quot;run out&quot; of other units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-07-09T21:31:35.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25119" CreationDate="2015-07-10T04:45:41.990" Score="3" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unity's card Inspired Repair's text says she can play a card. If inspired repair is played during her Play Phase, can she play a golem, which of course reads &quot;cannot be played during the Play Phase.&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would guess no, golems can't be played. But then I thought maybe golem's restriction means AS her Play Phase card. Perhaps the Play Phase ends as soon as the card is played, then it's between phases while the card effects play out? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13118" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T14:18:08.933" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T14:18:08.933" Title="Can Unity play a golem after playing Inspired Repair" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25116" CreationDate="2015-07-10T04:51:23.157" Score="6" ViewCount="414" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bunker's Grenade Launcher power says &quot;Deal 2 damage to a target, may deal 2 damage to another target, may deal 1 damage to another target.&quot; Does that imply that each target would have to be unique? Or could it hit the same target multiple times since it doesn't say a DIFFERENT target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I always played it as 3 different targets, but I'm wondering if the card is intended to give the option to be like a card that reads &quot;Deal 1 target 1 melee damage and 1 fire damage&quot; OR you can split that damage up among multiple target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13118" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T14:47:57.850" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:02:16.740" Title="Can Bunker's Grenade Launcher be used on the same target 3 times?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T06:58:09.500" Score="7" ViewCount="44767" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to MTG and this has been bothering me. Say I use any spell on my 1st main phase to deal 1 damage to my opponenent's 2/5 creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I attack him during the combat phase of the same turn with a 4/3 creature and he blocks me using that 2/5 I previously did 1 damage to, will my 4/3 creature kill it, or his creature would have &quot;healed&quot; up between phases?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13120" LastEditorUserId="13120" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T13:36:30.963" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T21:46:42.623" Title="Do blocking creatures heal back to full between phases?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25113" CreationDate="2015-07-10T07:27:09.523" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be destroyed. All damage done to the creature in most cases stays until the very end of the turn (cleanup step).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;119.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Damage marked on a creature remains until the cleanup step, even if that permanent stops being a creature. If the total damage marked on a creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed as a state-based action (see rule 704). All damage marked on a permanent is removed when it regenerates (see rule 701.12, “Regenerate”) and during the cleanup step (see rule 514.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-12-01T21:46:42.623" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T21:46:42.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9766" CreationDate="2015-07-10T11:29:29.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know, this answer comes late, but for the sake of completeness, I will add it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sveinns answer mentions the biggest and most important changes, but there were three nitpicks he missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Tyrell kills a single attacking or defending Footman, it does not immediately end combat in favour of Tyrell. Combat strength is still calculated and the one with higher combat strength wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If House Card abilities are supposed to be resolved at the same time, in second edition the order on the Iron Throne track decides, not the order on the Fiefdom track.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A tie in Victory Track position after ten rounds is broken by the number of controlled Strongholds first, then Supply Track, then available Power Tokens, then Iron Throne Track position. (1st edition didn't care about the number of Strongholds)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T11:29:29.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2015-07-10T13:37:48.503" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you must select different targets for each set of damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sentinelsdigital.com/buysotm.html&quot;&gt;Sentinels of the Multiverse app&lt;/a&gt; developed by Handelabra Studio in cooperation with Greater Than Games, playing Grenade Launcher asks you to select a target for each instance of dealing damage and does not give you the option for selecting the same target(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This matches the usual definition of &quot;another&quot;. From dictionary.reference.com:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Another&lt;/strong&gt; (adj):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1.&#xA;  being one more or more of the same; further; additional:&#xA;  another piece of cake.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2.&#xA;  different; distinct; of a different period, place, or kind:&#xA;  at another time; another man.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3.&#xA;  very similar to; of the same kind or category as:&#xA;  What we need today is another Thomas Jefferson.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, Sentinels of the Multiverse cards are very literal in their instructions: if it were intended to have an OR, it would have an OR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T15:08:47.100" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T15:08:47.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24012" CreationDate="2015-07-10T13:55:22.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The setup for the non-randomized beginner game has changed.  The desert moved from the edge to the center of the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also suggest, if only as a teaching aid, that you consider a turn to have three sequential parts: resources, trade, then build. From page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The separation of the trade and build phases was introduced to make the sequence easier to learn for beginners. We recommend experienced players ignore this separation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7502" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T13:55:22.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25110" CreationDate="2015-07-10T14:17:21.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is still her play phase so she can't play a mechanical golem no matter how many extra cards she is allowed to play.  During any other phase or other players turn she may play a mechanical golem if she gets to play a card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T14:17:21.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T14:53:33.810" Score="5" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so we are mid-game and the pressure is thick. My so called &quot;friend&quot;, has been stealing all my small items the entire game. The host of tonights game has favored his apocolypse doors for every knock, and consequently this game is nearing the 7th seal. For those of you that know, this is the hail mary Game Over play. My thief of a friend does a quick count of his combat bonuses and then whispers to me, &quot;we are tied for first....&quot; I didn't come here to split the glory. Once the disaster that flips up the 7th seal is played, I try to equip some items for a bonus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May I equip cards to &quot;buffer&quot; my combat bonus, in response to the apocolypse 7th seal attempt to open? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13119" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:21:19.533" Title="Munchkins: Apocolypse Preparing for the 7th seal" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25123" CreationDate="2015-07-10T14:59:11.853" Score="5" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this dungeon says any curse that affects someone happens to everyone, unless the curse already does so. Most curses are pretty cut and dry, but what does &quot;effects everyone&quot; technically mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;example: What happens when I play &quot;Curse of Generosity&quot;? Does this only affect the player I played it on, because he gives something to everyone? Or, Does everyone have to be &quot;generous&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13119" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T15:05:34.637" Title="Munchkin Dungeon of Comprehensive Curses Technical Difficulties" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25124" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:05:34.433" Score="5" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Level 1 sock puppet says players may not play cards from hand to aid or help this combat. May they use the cards that are in their unequipped zone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13119" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T17:14:37.837" Title="Munchkins Combat Shenanigans" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25121" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:05:34.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pretend that the curse is copied for each player and played on them.  So in your example, every player would need to be generous.  You should probably do it simultaneously so you don't have cards getting passed in a giant circle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T15:05:34.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25122" CreationDate="2015-07-10T15:19:50.227" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the items are marked &quot;play during any combat&quot; then yes. If the items are to be equipped, then no, you may not change what items are equipped in the middle of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastEditorUserId="11969" LastEditDate="2015-07-10T17:14:37.837" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T17:14:37.837" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T19:58:30.823" Score="1" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;ON the UK players turn he attacks a Japanese destroyer in sea zone 32 with a UK carrier(carrying 1 UK and 1 US fighter) from sea zone 29. I know that if the carrier gets destroyed, the US fighter is also destroyed,since its a guest fighter. But can the UK fighter land somewhere in friendly territory (say in the Phillipines which would be 2 spaces from sea zone 32 because it already moved 2 from sea zone 29), or is it also treated as cargo and destroyed since it did not take off? Different example. And if the previous is a valid attack, (lets say UK fighter now in India), can during the combat move the fighter land on the UK carrier in sea zone 29, the carrier with fighter on it move to attack the destroyer in sea zone 32, gets destroyed,(the jap destroyer is sunk also), can the UK fighter now use its final movement to land on Borneo? Please help. Thank you.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12976" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T16:32:09.903" Title="In axis and allies 1941 do fighters have to take off to participate in an attack?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25126" CreationDate="2015-07-10T21:28:23.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic principle is that an air unit ends its turn when it &quot;lands&quot; on a space or a carrier. So if a fighter flies two spaces, fights, and lands on a carrier with its third space, its turn ends, and it cannot fly to an adjacent fourth space if the carrier is attacked. (The air unit is refueling while this happens.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, an air unit on a carrier can defend its carrier, which is to say that a player can choose to take fighters as casualties before, or instead of the carrier. (If the carrier is UK, and a fighter is US, the UK player needs the consent of the US player.) But most players will sacrifice a fighter to allow the carrier to be taken as a casualty last, because if it is sunk, the fighters are lost anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-07-10T21:28:23.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-10T23:31:41.917" Score="5" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;What penalty should the Dummy receive for touching cards or moving cards forward?&#xA;After play started, when his partner led to the diamonds, Dummy arranged them again in my mind to make sure she knew there were 7 cards. I have also had the Dummy push forward a winning card in a ebu competition. I welcome your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13126" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T07:09:04.510" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T03:28:22.613" Title="What penalty should the Dummy receive for telegraphing to his partner after play has started?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6764" CreationDate="2015-07-11T05:13:04.383" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use a three color deck (white,blue,green). It works well with me because I have worked out a good manna base for every type of deck. on my main I use 45 lands 15 from each color I have in my three color deck .it works really well for me and my strictly 100 card deck&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13127" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T05:13:04.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25130" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25147" CreationDate="2015-07-11T06:28:13.243" Score="3" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Blood Flows mythos card says under its event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Lead Investigator discards 1 Monster of his choice and loses Health equal to its toughness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I use the monster's current or max health?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T19:01:24.053" Title="In Eldritch Horror, when a mythos card refers to a monster's toughness, does it mean its current or max toughness?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25128" CreationDate="2015-07-11T06:38:16.677" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge (2008)&lt;/a&gt;, the specific Rights and Limitations of Dummy are listed as Laws 42 and 43. Notable limitations in this context are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 43&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;DUMMY'S LIMITATIONS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Except as Law 42 allows:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A. Limitations on Dummy     ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;     1. (c) Dummy may not participate in the play, nor may he communicate anything about the play to declarer.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;   2. (c) Dummy may  not, on his own initiative, look at the face of a card in either defender's hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B. If a Violation Occurs&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1. Dummy is liable to penalty under Law 90 for any violation of the limitation listed in A 1 and A2 above.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;LAW 90&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;PROCEDURAL PENALTIES&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A. Director's Authority&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The Director, in addition to implementing the rectifications in these laws, may also assess procedural penalties for any offense that unduly delays or obstructs the game, inconveniences other contestants, violates correct procedure, or requires the award of an adjusted score at another table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally Law 45 F states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;F. Dummy Indicates Card&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  After dummy's hand is faced, dummy may not&#xA;  touch or indicate any card except for purposes of arrangement, without&#xA;  instruction from declarer. If he does so, the Director should be&#xA;  summoned forthwith and informed of the action. Play continues. At the&#xA;  end of play the Director shall award an adjusted score if he considers&#xA;  the dummy suggested a play to declarer and the defenders were damaged&#xA;  by the play suggested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a duplicate game, if a dummy at my table touched any ,in any manner other than to play a card indicated by declarer by name or to mark tricks in the prescribed fashion, I would immediately call Director for protection. I want the action to stop and to not be resumed, and the appropriate way to do that is to call Director.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As described by you, both instances of dummy's behaviour are in my opinion clearly in violation of &lt;em&gt;Law 43 A 2 (c)&lt;/em&gt;. As A Director, I would award an adjusted score (under &lt;strong&gt;Law 45 F&lt;/strong&gt;) if there was the reasonable possibility that damage occurred by any play that might have been suggested by dummy's action. I would then give a stern warning to both members of the offending partnership, and (except for novices), assess an additional half board penalty (under &lt;strong&gt;Law 90 A&lt;/strong&gt;) to the offending player. A repeat occurrence by either member of that partnership in that game would get the offending player an additional full board penalty (again under &lt;strong&gt;Law 90 A&lt;/strong&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T03:28:22.613" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T03:28:22.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2015-07-11T08:23:26.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For loads of information about openings and play after the opening,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;refer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://blokusstrategy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a blog written by a champion player&lt;/a&gt; (blokusstrategy.com)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7985" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T08:23:26.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25134" CreationDate="2015-07-11T15:38:00.907" Score="5" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fluxx, if you play the &quot;Double Agenda&quot; rule this allows for two goals in play. If the Double Agenda card is removed by an action how do you deal with the two goals in play? Does the person who played the action to remove Double Agenda decide which &quot;extra&quot; goal to remove or do both goals stay in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13129" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-07-11T22:18:39.147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T22:18:39.147" Title="Double Agenda card" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25133" CreationDate="2015-07-11T22:17:40.787" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play a card that removes the double agenda rule you then get to choose which of the goals to remove and which one to keep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-11T22:17:40.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25146" CreationDate="2015-07-12T06:56:03.447" Score="3" ViewCount="1222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do monster encounters only occur during the movement phase when leaving a space with a monster or ending at one, and also when cards say a monster appears? Flying monsters moving to your space don't induce an encounter right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:26:05.570" Title="Is the only time a monster encounter occurs during the movement phase or when 'a monster appears'?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T07:58:48.643" Score="0" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have two players and my investigator is blessed and has a resultant fight of 11 and rolls 8 successes, do I outright take 4 doom tokens off the ancient one? We spent 2-3 hours slogging through the game and getting hurt at every turn, but when the final battle came, it was quick and short due to this situation, surprising me that it was so easy to defeat the ancient one after all that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T07:58:48.643" Title="Can multiple doom tokens be removed in one hit in the final battle?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="9" ClosedDate="2015-07-13T09:52:20.880" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25137" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25138" CreationDate="2015-07-12T07:59:55.597" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once I return from Lost In Time And Space, do I take the clue in that location immediately upon landing there during the Upkeep phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T08:13:58.123" Title="Do I immediately get any clues at a location I jump to from the &quot;Lost In Time And Space&quot; location?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25137" CreationDate="2015-07-12T08:13:58.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you don't. Moving from Lost in Time and Space happens during the Upkeep phase, and you may only pick up clues at the end of movement that happens during the Movement phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 14):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Do you immediately gain any Clues at locations&#xA;  you move to during Upkeep (from being Lost in Time&#xA;  and Space)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T08:13:58.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:01:19.740" Score="10" ViewCount="43113" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does a creature with indestructible end up in the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to figure this out for a little while.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="20266" LastEditDate="2018-11-19T20:52:12.103" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T19:43:35.960" Title="How can creatures with indestructible end up in the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25139" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:11:51.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature with indestructible can die as a result of anything that is not damage (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;) and does not explicitly use the word 'destroy' (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toughness reduced to less than zero.  (This is neither damage nor a 'destroy' effect.) e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Death%20Wind&quot;&gt;Death Wind&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature's controller is forced to sacrifice it.  e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=All%20is%20Dust&quot;&gt;All is Dust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:11:51.300" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:21:04.853" Score="0" ViewCount="5072" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do poison counters work? What are the scenarios a player would receive a poison counter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T19:15:49.970" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:42:28.937" Title="How do poison counters work and how would a player get them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25142" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:31:48.997" Score="3" ViewCount="12158" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the specific types of permanents in the game? Are lands included in permanents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T20:38:14.007" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:41:55.887" Title="What are permanents?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25141" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:36:52.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All you really need to know is that you lose the game if you get 10, and that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4263/can-poison-counters-be-removed&quot;&gt;they're nearly impossible to remove&lt;/a&gt;. Generally if you see a card that talks about poison counters, it'll be a card that gives them, so this should never really be confusing - if the cards don't mention them, you don't have to worry about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the main way to get poison counters is from creatures with Infect, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlighted%20Agent%5d&quot;&gt;Blighted Agent&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Infect (This creature deals damage to creatures in the form of -1/-1 counters and to players in the form of poison counters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's was also an ability called Poisonous, but it's only on a couple cards.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVirulent%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Virulent Sliver&lt;/a&gt; gives all Slivers Poisonous 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Sliver creatures have poisonous 1. (Whenever a Sliver deals combat damage to a player, that player gets a poison counter. A player with ten or more poison counters loses the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSnake%20Cult%20Initiation%5d&quot;&gt;Snake Cult Initiation&lt;/a&gt; is an aura that gives the enchanted creature Poisonous 3. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMarsh%20Viper%5d&quot;&gt;Marsh Viper&lt;/a&gt; essentially has Poisonous 2, but spells it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20[poison]%20[counter]%20![infect]%20![poisonous]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;several more cards&lt;/a&gt; that just explicitly give a player poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T20:42:28.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25142" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:41:18.130" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; answers this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;permanent&lt;/strong&gt;—Lands, creatures, artifacts,&#xA;  enchantments, and planeswalkers are&#xA;  permanents. They enter the battlefield after you&#xA;  cast them. Token creatures are also permanents.&#xA;  Instants and sorceries are not permanents. They&#xA;  go to the graveyard after they resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:41:18.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25142" CreationDate="2015-07-12T20:41:55.887" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A permanent is any card or token on the battlefield. This includes lands, creatures, artifacts, enchantments, and planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that they have to actually be on the battlefield to be permanents. For example, a creature card on the battlefield is a permanent, though it's usually just referred to as a creature - the &quot;permanent is implied&quot;. If it's on the stack, in the process of being cast, it's a creature &lt;em&gt;spell&lt;/em&gt;, not a permanent. And if it's elsewhere like in your hand or graveyard, it's just a creature &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt;, still not a permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T20:41:55.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25135" CreationDate="2015-07-12T22:08:59.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you start your movement phase on a location or Street with any monsters,  you must either evade them all or fight them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attempt to pass through a location or street with a monster on it,  you must either evade or fight them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you end your movement on a location or street with a monster,  you must either evade or fight them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flying monsters usually move during the mythos phase,  so you won't need to fight them till your next movement phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Monsters that appear due to encounters need to be fought or evaded immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An exception to the above is when you return from an other world location and have an explored marker. On your first turn after returning,  you don't need to fight or evade any monsters guarding the gate,  giving you one relatively safe shot at closing the gate &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the exception above, you can find it in the rules on page 18&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the turn he returns to Arkham from an Other World, an&#xA;  investigator does not have to evade or fight any monsters in the&#xA;  gate’s location. This rule only applies during the turn he returns to&#xA;  Arkham; in subsequent turns, if the investigator remains in the&#xA;  location, he must evade or fight any monsters there as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T22:26:05.570" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:26:05.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25130" CreationDate="2015-07-12T22:13:35.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toughness is the max health. That's the damage you should take. &#xA;To clarify,  a monster taking damage does not effect its toughness. Once a monster takes damage equal to Toughness,  it dies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-07-12T22:17:39.473" LastActivityDate="2015-07-12T22:17:39.473" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25139" CreationDate="2015-07-13T01:24:23.397" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indestructible prevents the permanent from being destroyed.  This usually is caused by damage exceeding a creature's toughness, or an effect that explicitly says that it will destroy a permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main ways that a creature with indestructible will die (being put to the graveyard from the battlefield) will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having its toughness reduced to zero via -X/-X effects. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTragic%20Slip%5d&quot;&gt;Tragic Slip&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlack%5d%2b%5bSun%27s%5d%2b%5bZenith%5d&quot;&gt;Black Sun&amp;#39;s Zenith&lt;/a&gt; or -1/-1 counters, including damage from a source with infect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being sacrificed. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInnocent%20Blood%5d&quot;&gt;Innocent Blood&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Losing indestructible and being destroyed (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHour%20of%20Devastation%5d&quot;&gt;Hour of Devastation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTurn%20to%20Frog%5d&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; + destruction effect)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ways to deal with indestructible permanents that do not cause them to &amp;quot;die&amp;quot; include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exiling. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSwords%20to%20Plowshares%5d&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bounce. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnsummon%5d&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interacting with them on the stack. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterspell%5d&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThoughtseize%5d&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removal from the deck. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMemoricide%5d&quot;&gt;Memoricide&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking control of them. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIn%5d%2b%5bBolas%27s%5d%2b%5bClutches%5d&quot;&gt;In Bolas&amp;#39;s Clutches&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move them to their owner's library. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=432990&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Condemn&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13138" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2021-03-11T08:39:02.487" LastActivityDate="2021-03-11T08:39:02.487" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25149" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:31:40.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Archenemy&quot; is a multiplayer variant for &lt;em&gt;Magic: The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; where multiple players work together against a single player. This format utilizes Scheme cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/tcg/productarticle.aspx?x=mtg/tcg/archenemy/productinfo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wizards of the Coast product info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_Archenemy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T18:06:49.370" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T18:06:49.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25150" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:31:40.183" Score="0" Body="A multiplayer variant where multiple players work together against a single player. This format utilizes Scheme cards." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T18:07:00.577" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T18:07:00.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25151" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:38:03.587" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Hex Hex&lt;/em&gt; is a party game where players use cards to deflect a hex away from themselves and to another opponent. The game was first released by Smirk &amp;amp; Dagger Games in 2003 and again as &lt;em&gt;Hex Hex XL&lt;/em&gt; in 2010, which included elements from the expansion pack &lt;em&gt;Hex Hex Next&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T19:08:11.400" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:08:11.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25152" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:38:03.587" Score="0" Body="A party game where players use cards to deflect a hex away from themselves and to another opponent. Also released as Hex Hex XL." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T19:08:14.907" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:08:14.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25153" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:40:19.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Specter Ops&lt;/em&gt; is a secret movement game set in a futuristic world. It was first released by Plaid Hat Games in 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T19:08:08.833" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:08:08.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25154" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-13T17:40:19.757" Score="0" Body="A secret movement game set in a futuristic world." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T19:08:18.797" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:08:18.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25155" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-13T18:19:06.180" Score="2" ViewCount="2205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found an issue with playing the board game &lt;code&gt;Who wants to be a millionaire 2nd edition&lt;/code&gt;, and the rules do not cater for the problematic scenario.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules can be downloaded from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fgbradleys.com/game_rules.asp#w&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;www.fgbradleys.com/game_rules.asp#w&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Click the &quot;Who Wants To Be A Millionaire&quot; link to download PDF.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The problem&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is with the &quot;Ask the Audience&quot; lifeline.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the TV show, the audience are not playing the game and do not need to answer the question themselves. So they simply vote on which ever answer they think is correct.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the board game, the &quot;audience votes&quot; are the answers which players are going to choose &lt;em&gt;for themselves&lt;/em&gt;. They pass their answer via a card (either A, B, C, or D) to the host who adds a card with the correct answer, and then passes them all to the player using the &quot;Ask the audience&quot; lifeline.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem comes when a player uses their &quot;Ask the audience&quot; but one (or more) of the other players do not yet have an answer, and possibly/likely were going to use a lifeline themselves.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the other player(s) don't have a legitimate answer to choose, and so cannot pass an &quot;Ask the audience&quot; card based on an answer they are choosing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Solution we're using&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there's nothing in the rules to resolve this, we decided that any players needing to provide an &quot;Ask the audience&quot; card but do not yet have an answer, randomly selects a card to pass to the host.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't always terrible, as the host always provides a card with the &lt;em&gt;correct&lt;/em&gt; answer, and another player &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; have an answer.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if no other players have an answer this lifeline becomes quite hit-and-miss.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The lifeline cards the player receive from other players &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; an actual answer of their own are now just randomly chosen, 1 out of 4 chance, and not based on knowledge of the other players in any way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the point is supposed to be getting what other players are answering themselves as they &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; know the answer (arguably it's more than &quot;chance/random&quot;).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also changes the potential outcome. As a card which a player passes at random might not end up being the answer that player chooses for themselves.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So if the card they passed is chosen by the receiving player (using the lifeline) and the answer is wrong, but the player who passed the card ends up with a different answer themselves which is correct, they go through to the next question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas if they pass the answer &lt;em&gt;they were choosing themselves&lt;/em&gt;, if that answer is chosen by the receiving player and wrong they both go out, if it's correct they both stay in.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is how it's designed - to avoid passing a card which you &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; is the &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt; answer, as on the TV show which the board game is based on, the audience have no reason to give any answer other than the one they believe to be correct.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are other parameters at play there, but essentially I'm saying it causes a few issues and alters potential outcome.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone think of a better solution to manage this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13143" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-13T19:35:53.813" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T02:34:31.637" Title="Problem with lifelines in &quot;Who Wants To Be A Millionaire&quot; board game" Tags="|house-rules|who-wants-millionaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25120" CreationDate="2015-07-13T19:21:19.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I looked up the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/apoc_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;. On page 5 is a section called 'WHEN TO PLAY CARDS'. In it you find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Items – Playing Them&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any Item card may be played to the table as soon as you get it, or at&#xA;  any time on your own turn other than in combat (unless the card itself&#xA;  says otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you have no combat and it is your own turn, you can play item cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="407" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T19:21:19.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25155" CreationDate="2015-07-13T20:56:43.653" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hit-and-miss nature of the Ask The Audience seems like it is right.  There is no mention in the rules that the answer that a player gives for Ask The Audience must match the answer they ultimately decide to go with.  If you look at the rules for Phone A Friend (which appears to work similarly) it states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;this card does not have to match what the “Friend” may have answered&#xA;  on his/her own Console&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since in the real game show asking the audience is really just asking a bunch of random people what they think, I believe the &quot;problem&quot; you have encountered in many ways actually approximates how a real random audience would work.  You have some that know the answer (and are helpful people), some who aren't sure, some who are trolls and saboteurs (even the Phone A Friend lifeline could be used to mess somebody up on purpose, which is partially why I believe that sabotage is ok).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, just like in the game show, there is no guarantee that what the audience says is the right answer is really correct.  The contestant has to decide how much they really want to believe the audience and then make their decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-07-13T20:56:43.653" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24915" CreationDate="2015-07-14T00:03:20.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Couple of quick points, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Oberon: Does not reveal as evil and does not know who evil is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are playing it exactly as it is set up in the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Percival: Knows who Merlin is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Merlin may not know who Percival is he does know who all good are and Percival knows who he is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should check out the rules for the optional characters for some other new roles&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redmeeple.com/site/images/Rules/The_Resistance_Avalon_Rules(EN).pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.redmeeple.com/site/images/Rules/The_Resistance_Avalon_Rules(EN).pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T00:03:20.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2015-07-14T11:39:55.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;VASSAL works and there is a 40K module for 7th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Vassal40k/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/Vassal40k/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13150" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T11:39:55.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24517" CreationDate="2015-07-14T19:27:54.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google has a way to search for patents. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/?tbm=pts&amp;amp;gws_rd=cr,ssl&amp;amp;ei=92GlVb5Jwct6juip0Aw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.ca/?tbm=pts&amp;amp;gws_rd=cr,ssl&amp;amp;ei=92GlVb5Jwct6juip0Aw&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as mentioned before, professional help might be the best. When it comes to things of a legal nature, don't assume you know the answers. Do what you do best and rely on others to do their thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side piece (which could be useful to @deworde), there's a difference between a sole-proprietor and incorporation for a company, which comes with different legal protections and obligations. Make sure you speak to a proper lawyer before making major decisions like these. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12776" LastActivityDate="2015-07-14T19:27:54.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-14T23:44:44.277" Score="2" ViewCount="1360" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Riots&quot; card has three ambiguities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do the troops that get removed have to die in the &quot;major city&quot; territory or just from anywhere controlled by that player? Can the last troop in a territory get removed in this way?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a player owns two major cities, do the troops on both major cities count towards the total, or just one of them, or each of them independently?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a player owns two major cities and has an HQ on one of them, does the HQ get destroyed, or is it possible to consider the other major city as the &quot;territory&quot; in question?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13153" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-14T23:46:35.577" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T07:28:57.560" Title="Risk Legacy &quot;Riots&quot; event card is ambigious" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25163" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:04:41.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Who Wants to be a Millionaire?&lt;/em&gt; is the board game version of the TV show with the same name. It was first published in 2000 by Pressman Toy Corp. A second edition was published in 2008 by Upstarts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T09:12:16.773" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T09:12:16.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25164" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-15T00:04:41.153" Score="0" Body="A board game version of the TV game show &quot;Who Wants to be a Millionaire?&quot;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T09:12:19.960" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T09:12:19.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25166" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-15T11:28:23.170" Score="5" ViewCount="1394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; saw the human team win and I would like making it a little bit easier for humans to finish the game without losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I balance that? Is there anywhere a new set of rules that balance the game? Will I be forced to buy an expansion, or can I add/remove easily stuff without ruining the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10240" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T15:46:37.867" Title="Battlestar Galactica: How to balance core game" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|balance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25166" CreationDate="2015-07-15T11:51:22.470" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the base game, I would expect a human victory most of the time, so it's possible you're playing badly or wrongly.  Is there a standard way you lose?  Eg, if you commonly run out of morale, etc - start the wheels higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T11:51:22.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25169" CreationDate="2015-07-15T16:51:49.937" Score="6" ViewCount="2770" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gustcloak%20Savior&quot;&gt;Gustcloak Savior&lt;/a&gt; has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control becomes blocked, you may untap that creature and remove it from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What about creatures with Vigilance? Attacking does not cause them to tap so they cannot be untapped. Can they still be removed from combat, after they become blocked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="12539" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T17:36:11.413" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:27:35.553" Title="Gustcloak's ability vs. creatures with Vigilance" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25168" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:09:44.233" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are allowed to use Gustcloak Savior's ability to remove an attacking creature from combat, even if it is not tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gustcloak Savior's ability is a triggered ability, that triggers in your Declare Blockers step for each of your attacking creatures that have become blocked. Then, when the ability resolves, it lets you choose whether to have the ability's effect happen. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_Spells_and_Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 608.2d&lt;/a&gt; says in part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect of a spell or ability offers any choices other than choices already made as part of casting the spell, activating the ability, or otherwise putting the spell or ability on the stack, the player announces these while applying the effect. The player can’t choose an option that’s illegal or impossible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 609.3&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since part of the effect can happen (removing the creature from combat) and it will just not do the impossible part (untapping the creature), it's not considered impossible, so you are allowed to choose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, once you choose to apply the effect, it tries to do both things: untap the creature and remove the creature from combat. Since the creature is already untapped, it is impossible to untap it, so it only does the part that is possible, which is removing that creature from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ruling has been confirmed by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/124376684274/i-had-a-question-about-gustcloak-savior-if-i-have&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official Ask A Magic Judge blog&lt;/a&gt;, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Untap that creature and remove it from combat&quot; is the action you’re taking, so as long as you perform some part of that action, you can choose to perform the action and remove the creature from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T03:53:16.147" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T03:53:16.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25170" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25172" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:15:26.613" Score="3" ViewCount="170" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quest%20for%20Pure%20Flame&quot;&gt;Quest for Pure Flame&lt;/a&gt; with 3 quest counters on them and my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Furnace%20Scamp&quot;&gt;Furnace Scamp&lt;/a&gt; deals combat damage to an opponent, can I then sacrifice my Quest in time to double the Scamp's triggered ability damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13156" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-15T17:21:27.760" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T17:23:28.180" Title="Can I double Furnace Scamp's triggered ability damage with a 3-counter Quest for Pure Flame?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25170" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:23:28.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use the Quest for Pure Flame's ability to double the damage from the Furnace Scamp's triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Furnace Scamp deals combat damage, both its triggered ability and the Quest's triggered ability go on the stack. For this to work, you have to put the Quest's triggered ability on top of the Scamp's ability. Then, do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let the Quest's ability resolve. The Quest now has four counters.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With the Scamp's ability still on the stack&lt;/strong&gt;, activate the Quest's second ability and let that ability resolve. Now, for the rest of the turn, damage dealt by sources you control is doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now let the Scamp's ability resolve. Since the Quest's ability has already resolved, the damage is doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T17:23:28.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25168" CreationDate="2015-07-15T17:29:07.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Great question! This is a confusing thing for less experienced players. We know from 701.20b that (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To untap a permanent, rotate it back to the upright position from a sideways position. &lt;strong&gt;Only tapped permanents can be untapped.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would seem to indicate that we're doing something illegal. However, there is a difference between an effect and a cost. Even though only tapped permanents can be untapped, you can still &lt;em&gt;attempt&lt;/em&gt; to untap an already untapped permanent. I tried very hard to find a rule that supported this claim and thanks to the incredibly common terms &quot;tap&quot; and &quot;untap&quot; I simply couldn't find it. But I did find a supporting &lt;em&gt;ruling&lt;/em&gt; on a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDeadshot%5d&quot;&gt;Deadshot&lt;/a&gt; is a sorcery that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tap target creature. It deals damage equal to its power to another target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the supporting ruling states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deadshot can target a creature which is already tapped as its first target, and it will still damage the second target. This is because it taps that creature as an effect, not as a cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly this is saying that an already tapped card can be targeted with intent to tap it and the ability won't fizzle. A lot of the cards do not have that ruling on them, but it clearly still applies. It must just not be a common enough problem to justify a ruling put on it anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-08-10T19:27:35.553" LastActivityDate="2018-08-10T19:27:35.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3437" CreationDate="2015-07-15T19:03:36.873" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I recall, my copy of the original Mayfair 4-player edition (with the teeny tiny cards) combined the Kosmos 4-player and 5-6 player decks, and that was fixed when Mayfair started using the Kosmos materials in later editions. It's possible I just had a bad copy, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-15T19:03:36.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-16T03:55:36.633" Score="12" ViewCount="1135" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy giving anniversary or otherwise &quot;nicer&quot; editions of games to family and friends.  Last year for Christmas, I got my sister and brother-in-law a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/anniversary/inside/&quot;&gt;Ticket to Ride 10th Anniversary Edition&lt;/a&gt;.  It was a bit more expensive than the basic version, but I felt it was well worth it.  They have played the game on a regular basis ever since and have not yet seen the (much) lower quality pieces of the basic releases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I have been looking towards the future and what the next gift will be and I would love to find some of the additional maps (such as Asia, Legendary Asia, India, etc...) in the larger size as to accommodate the larger pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there such larger maps available anywhere?  (even if only as pnp)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are the regular sized maps too small to use the anniversary pieces?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This image from bgg would make it seem that the answer to the second question is an unfortunate yes, but have people tried using them anyways and have any experience with doing so?  Allowing the pieces to either hang off the edge or placing them slanted, etc...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/E3nP5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T09:50:47.363" Title="Big expansion boards for ticket to ride" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25162" CreationDate="2015-07-16T05:08:53.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules as written aren't completely unambiguous, but their meaning can be determined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Riots&lt;/strong&gt; - Every player who controls a major city must roll a die, adding 1 to their roll for each troop and HQ &lt;strong&gt;in that territory&lt;/strong&gt;. If your modified roll is lower than 6, remove troops equal to your natural die roll and DEMOLISH any HQs in that territory. DISCARD this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the Riots event only kills troops in Major Cities. &lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, it is possible to lose the last troop in a territory this way. (I.e. You have 2 troops + an HQ and roll a natural '2'.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) This is ambiguous. I would roll for each Major City independently, counting troops and HQs in each territory independently, but the rules as written state that players only roll once, and calculate their modified roll independently for each territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) This is a good reason to only roll one die regardless of how many Major City territories you control and calculate individual modified rolls based upon the number of troops and HQs in independent territories. (I.e. You roll a natural '1' and have one Major City with 4 troops and an HQ in it and one Major City with 2 troops. Riots would remove the HQ and one troop from one territory and one troop from the other territory.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T05:08:53.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25166" CreationDate="2015-07-16T08:53:17.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 28 of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To make the game easier for the human players, start the game with 2 more of each resource (10 food, 10 fuel, 12 morale, and 14 population).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it's worth mentioning that the core game is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; balanced, especially with 5 players. The expansions arguably make it &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're not playing very well, but it's difficult to offer suggestions without knowing more about your group and how they play. You should be analysing everyone's moves and motives and closely inspecting the results of &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; skill checks. The Cylons should feel pressured to help out at every opportunity, lest they be accused and possibly brigged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T08:53:17.830" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25180" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25181" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:47:57.510" Score="9" ViewCount="562" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started judging at Regular last week, and one thing that made me uncomfortable was watching players break rules. Sometimes the opponent would look at me like, &quot;Are you really going to let this happen?&quot; I tried my best to educate the players without providing an unfair advantage or being a pesky judge who intervenes every thirty seconds, but I'd rather have a set of official rules that I can follow so that I know when to intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, one player declared an attacker, the opponent declared a blocker, then the first player declared another attacker, and then the opponent looked to me for intervention. Not sure if I should intervene, I decided to ask the player, &quot;Do you have a question?&quot; He took the bait, and I was able to correct the situation and educate the players on how declaring attackers works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When should I intervene in a match?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T22:24:20.507" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T22:24:20.507" Title="When should a judge intervene in a match?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25180" CreationDate="2015-07-16T14:47:57.510" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_17jul15_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Magic: the Gathering Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; (MTR) makes it clear that a judge should not intervene before a rule has been broken, but should intervene after a rule has been broken. In other words, a judge should be reactive, not proactive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Judges do not intervene in a game to prevent illegal actions, but do intervene as soon as a rule has been broken or to prevent a situation from escalating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_17jul15_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; (IPG) states basically the same thing. Keep in mind that, as made clear by &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/telliott/2015/07/13/magic-origins-policy-changes/&quot;&gt;a recent rules update&lt;/a&gt;, the IPG is only meant to be used at Competitive and Professional REL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A judge shouldn’t intervene in a game unless he or she believes a rules violation has occurred, a player with a concern or question requests assistance, or the judge wishes to prevent a situation from escalating. Judges don’t stop play errors from occurring, but instead deal with errors that have occurred, penalize those who violate rules or policy, and promote fair play and sporting conduct by example and diplomacy. Judges may intervene to prevent or preempt errors occurring outside of a game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_jar_4.pdf&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular&lt;/a&gt; (JAR) covers Regular REL. At Regular, the judge is allowed (but not required) to intervene for missed triggers. Again, this is optional, and you should intervene at your discretion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You should intervene if you see something illegal happen in a match, but beyond this you can exercise your discretion. For example, whether you step in when you see a player miss a trigger should be determined by the tone you want to strike for your event – it may be appropriate to provide this extra help in a more causal environment, but less so if your play group is more competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-16T15:02:23.867" LastActivityDate="2015-07-16T15:02:23.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25184" CreationDate="2015-07-16T20:47:03.870" Score="1" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 14 of the rules under Exile says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The exiled player cannot spend food tokens to increase his action die results, but may play food cards to increase an action die result by 1 for each food card played rather than carrying out the effect listed on the food card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The literal reading seems to imply I can only increase a die by 1 for even a Food 2 card.  Is this true or can they increase a die twice or two dice once each with this sort of card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T16:06:24.593" Title="Can exiled players only increase an unused die once if they spend a Food 2 card?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25182" CreationDate="2015-07-17T05:02:01.473" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule you quoted clearly says it raises the dice result by one for each food card, so the dice result is raised by one for each food card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T05:02:01.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25185" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T13:50:23.337" Score="22" ViewCount="3369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a player need to complete a full turn (i.e. 4 actions, pickup, infect) if during the action portion the final disease was cured? I only ask because there was only 1 player card left in the deck and I wouldn't have been able to complete a full turn, which in the rules, signifies that players have lost. However, I knew that I could cure the final disease in one action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13169" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T18:02:03.880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:42:06.703" Title="Is this a win or loss?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25185" CreationDate="2015-07-17T13:55:59.600" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won. The rules state that in order to win, you must discover the cure to all 4 diseases. The moment you discover the 4th cure, the game ends and you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The players win &lt;strong&gt;as soon as&lt;/strong&gt; cures to all 4 diseases are discovered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The players do not have to eradicate all 4 diseases to win;&#xA;  just cure them. Once all diseases are cured, the game ends and players&#xA;  win &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt;, no matter how many cubes are on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T13:55:59.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25182" CreationDate="2015-07-17T16:06:24.593" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the Dead of Winter rule book says to spend a food &lt;strong&gt;card&lt;/strong&gt;, it doesn't matter what the number on the card is. In this case, if you spent a Food 2 card, it would only count as &lt;strong&gt;one card&lt;/strong&gt; and you could only increase a singular die result by one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T16:06:24.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25189" CreationDate="2015-07-17T16:26:15.043" Score="7" ViewCount="8227" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 10 of the rules say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you discover a new room because of a tile's or card's effect, and that new room has a symbol on it, you draw the appropriate card for that new room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: I haven't played the game at all and could probably read through all the tiles to answer this, but don't want to spoil the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is as follows. What does it mean to 'discover' a new room? Does the character have to enter the room, or do some tiles/cards have effects that will cause a room to appear without the character walking into it? If so, does this mean we do not draw for the symbol?  If all added rooms always result in the character entering the room, then I guess this question is pretty useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T07:08:46.987" Title="Are rooms drawn because of tiles and cards always considered 'discovered' and thus the symbol on the card executed?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25188" CreationDate="2015-07-17T16:55:01.343" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any time you enter a newly-drawn room, you must resolve the symbol in that room if it has one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way a room can appear in the house without having you enter that room at the same time is during a Haunt's setup instructions. During these setup instructions, you will ignore any symbols in the rooms, because there is no player entering the room to resolve the symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The events that can cause you to need to draw a new room tile will also tell you to move into that room, and when you do so, you must resolve the symbol. Note that if you ever ignored symbols in this way, you could end up with a game where the Haunt never begins (you ignore an Omen symbol, and then you only have 12 Omens instead of 13 to resolve. And it is possible, though very unlikely, that you will still pass the Haunt role with 12 Omens. But with 13 Omens, it is impossible to pass the role so the Haunt begins).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest the rules get to being clear about this is here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A room may have a card symbol on it. The&#xA;  first time you discover a room with a card symbol, you must&#xA;  end your move in that room and draw the appropriate card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't specifically define &quot;discovering&quot;, but it seems that the only assumption where the game makes sense is that discovering is any form of drawing a new tile and entering that room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in the first edition, the event Revolving Wall specifically tells you to ignore any symbols in the new room, but this is a mistake due to the never-ending game problem and was fixed in the second edition. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth#eventcards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the errata for the game&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Revolving Wall -- This states, &quot;Icons in [the newly drawn] room do not affect you this turn.&quot; Does this mean the icons affect you (thus ending your movement) on the next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Errata: Any icon in the new room does affect you when you enter. Otherwise it is possible (though unlikely) to have a game with no Haunt.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T21:31:24.870" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T21:31:24.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25199" CreationDate="2015-07-17T17:12:39.110" Score="2" ViewCount="11163" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules on page 11 under &lt;strong&gt;Use Item and Omen Cards&lt;/strong&gt; say that one of the things an explorer can do once is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trade an item&lt;/strong&gt; to another explorer in the same room (assuming you both agree).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean to &lt;strong&gt;give&lt;/strong&gt; an item to anther player, or does it mean to exchange one item for one item?  I would have expected the wording to simply be &lt;strong&gt;give&lt;/strong&gt; if they had meant that, but the phrasing 'trade to' versus saying 'trade with' throws me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T00:21:37.167" Title="Can you exchange items with another player, or can you only give items to another player on your turn?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25191" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24890" CreationDate="2015-07-17T18:05:35.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doing a comparison on how other games do it is your best option. However, don't limit yourself to just other board games. The first game that comes to mind is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=heroes%20of%20might%20and%20magic%203&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=678&amp;amp;tbm=isch&amp;amp;imgil=LqApS5g_B8mZHM%253A%253BIqePVRun77NY5M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fmight-and-magic.ubi.com%25252Funiverse%25252Fen-gb%25252Fgames%25252Fall-games%25252Fheroes-might-and-magic-3%25252Findex.aspx&amp;amp;source=iu&amp;amp;pf=m&amp;amp;fir=LqApS5g_B8mZHM%253A%252CIqePVRun77NY5M%252C_&amp;amp;usg=__jiECjvogDwYIjRJrr664Gt7yemU%3D#imgrc=LqApS5g_B8mZHM%3A&amp;amp;usg=__jiECjvogDwYIjRJrr664Gt7yemU%3D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heroes of Might and Magic 3&lt;/a&gt;. You should be able to see how they constructed 'boards' in that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like @Patters said, Catan is a great example. Hecatomb is a card game that leveraged odd shaped cards and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.ca/search?q=hive%20board%20game&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;espv=2&amp;amp;biw=1280&amp;amp;bih=678&amp;amp;source=lnms&amp;amp;sa=X&amp;amp;ved=0CAUQ_AUoAGoVChMIzrvUtuDixgIVgyweCh1OlQju&amp;amp;dpr=2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hive&lt;/a&gt; does a great example of moving around 6-sided pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12776" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T18:05:35.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T19:10:13.810" Score="4" ViewCount="20405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have my black coin near the pot but there is a white coin which is blocking it from my strike. Can I pot my black coin by striking only the white coin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13175" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2017-01-12T11:38:24.550" LastActivityDate="2019-03-07T11:49:27.660" Title="Can I strike the opponent's pieces directly without penalty?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25196" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:08:52.320" Score="6" ViewCount="406" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 3 creatures that have attacked, one of which is a manifested &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kytheon%2C%20Hero%20of%20Akros&quot;&gt;Kytheon, Hero of Akros&lt;/a&gt;. Assuming he will survive combat, when is my last opportunity to &amp;quot;un-manifest&amp;quot; him from a 2/2 and still receive his planeswalker flip trigger? Can I do it after damage, or do I have to do it after blocks, or even as far back as before I declare attackers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2015-07-17T20:29:42.987" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T00:05:02.583" Title="When is my last opportunity to turn a manifested Kytheon face up and still cause his trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25193" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:28:29.570" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to manifest Kytheon before combat, otherwise he will not count as having attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;711.2. Each face of a double-faced card has its own set of characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;711.2a In every zone other than the battlefield, and also on the battlefield with its front face up, a double-faced card has only the characteristics of the front face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kytheon generates a delayed triggered ability if he actually is Kytheon at start of combat. That delayed ability triggers at end of combat. If Kytheon was a 2/2 at start of combat, no delayed trigger is generated, even if he turns into Kytheon before end of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T20:28:29.570" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25193" CreationDate="2015-07-17T20:29:07.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only restriction is that you have to do it before the End of Combat step, so you can do it after damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Kytheon's ability says &quot;if Kytheon, Hero of Akros attacked...&quot; it means &quot;if this creature attacked...&quot;. Specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Name&quot;&gt;rule 201.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Text that refers to the object it's on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, &lt;strong&gt;regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Manifest&quot;&gt;rule 701.31a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Manifest [a card]&quot; means &quot;Put [that card] onto the battlefield face down.&quot; That permanent is a 2/2 creature with no text, &lt;strong&gt;no name&lt;/strong&gt;, no subtypes, and no mana cost. That permanent is a manifested permanent as long as it's face down. &lt;strong&gt;The effect defining its characteristics&lt;/strong&gt; works any time the card is face down and ends when it's turned face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point here is that Manifest is an effect that changes the creature's characteristics, including its name, but it's still the object that &quot;Kytheon, Hero of Akros&quot; refers to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot;&gt;Rule 110.6&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A permanent's status is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two possible values: tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, &lt;strong&gt;face up/face down&lt;/strong&gt;, and phased in/phased out. Each permanent always has one of these values for each of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and rule 701.31b says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any time you have priority, you may turn a manifested permanent you control face up. This is a special action that doesn't use the stack (see rule 115.2b). To do this, show all players that the card representing that permanent is a creature card and what its mana cost is, pay that cost, then turn the permanent face up. &lt;strong&gt;The effect defining its characteristics while it was face down ends, and it regains its normal characteristics.&lt;/strong&gt; If the card representing that permanent isn't a creature card or doesn't have a mana cost, it can't be turned face up this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As both of these indicate, when a manifested creature is turned face up, it is the same object that it was when it was face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/End_of_Combat_Step&quot;&gt;rule 511.1&lt;/a&gt;, the rule describing the End of Combat step says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;First, all &quot;at end of combat&quot; abilities trigger and go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, as long as Kytheon's ability exists when the End of Combat step starts, and you met the requirements, it will trigger and Kytheon will flip. The last time you gain priority before the End of Combat step is during the Combat Damage step, after damage is dealt, so that is your last opportunity to turn Kytheon face up and have the ability trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T00:05:02.583" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T00:05:02.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25197" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-17T21:46:05.143" Score="3" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a base scores and a minion moves to another base, like First Mate or Flying Monkey, and the new base has more power than the breaking point, does the new base score on this turn or next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13178" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T03:37:05.003" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T03:37:05.003" Title="Can two bases be scored in one turn?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25197" CreationDate="2015-07-17T22:48:10.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page 6 of the rules&lt;/a&gt;, the last thing you do after scoring a base (after discarding minions, and moving the First Mate and its ilk) is to &quot;Check to see if another base is ready to be scored. Score it too, the same way.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So every time you score a base, you check all of the other bases and see if they're ready to be scored. The player whose turn it is still decides what order to score them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2015-07-17T22:48:10.640" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25190" CreationDate="2015-07-17T23:03:38.673" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/downloads&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;updated rulebook&lt;/a&gt; states (on page 7, under that same heading &quot;Using Items and Omen Cards&quot;) that an item can be given, dropped, or picked up. This is much clearer: the other player can't give you an item if it isn't their turn. (During the Haunt, you may attack an opponent to steal an item in lieu of doing damage, as long as you would have inflicted 2 or more damage. But that's not what you're talking about.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth#rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt; clarifies that each item is only going to have something happen to/with it once per player turn. So you can't both use and give a weapon to repeatedly attack with it when you have a pile of Heroes wailing on a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each item, during a turn an explorer or monster that can carry items may only perform one of the following actions: use the item, give the item to another explorer, drop the item, steal the item, or pick up the item. Using the item means making any attack or roll or other action in which the item is involved in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2015-07-18T00:21:37.167" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T00:21:37.167" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25201" CreationDate="2015-07-18T04:08:37.843" Score="0" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gen42.com/downloads/rules/Hive_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 9 lists the One Hive rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The pieces in play must be linked at all times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for confirmation that this means my move must preserve my opponent's hive's continuity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T04:18:43.503" Title="Does the One Hive rule apply to preserving a continuous hive for your opponent as well?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25201" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25200" CreationDate="2015-07-18T04:18:43.503" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've realized that my question was posted out of a misinterpretation of the rules that made me think that BLACK is one hive and WHITE is another, and that all white pieces had to be connected while all black pieces had to be connected. I realize now that the one hive rule pertains to all pieces regardless of color needing to be connected in one big happy family (with bickering siblings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T04:18:43.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25203" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-18T08:23:00.183" Score="8" ViewCount="7232" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the poltergeist haunt, heroes are collecting item tokens (candles) to defeat the poltergeist. The Poltergeist wants to accumulate items to get stronger (move the damage track). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our game, a hero died who was carrying two candles. I was the traitor. I had my poltergeist pick up the dropped candles and thought I should move the track forward but there was some disagreement since the candle item tokens weren't item &lt;em&gt;cards&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook it pretty clearly says that item tokens should be treated as any other item. Should I have moved the damage track forward for each item I picked up from dead heroes? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13181" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T16:39:43.597" LastActivityDate="2018-06-29T00:15:35.033" Title="Poltergeist haunt (#17) - do item tokens count for the poltergeist's damage track?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25205" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:02:00.963" Score="16" ViewCount="2478" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering Origins set, there is a cycle of 5 creatures, each that are double-sided and have a planeswalker on the back side. Previously when double-sided cards were used, the cards had a condition that when triggered, said to &quot;transform [CARD NAME]&quot;. However, with this cycle of cards, instead of simply being transformed, when the condition is met, the cards are exiled and then returned to the battlefield transformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason for this? There's obviously a few different situations in which case this will be different for game purposes, such as if the creature was being targeted by a spell on the stack when it's transform condition triggered. But most of the time it would play out the same. And the new version is a little wordier than the old, as well as different than what people were used to; so I'm assuming that there's either a mechanical reason or a flavorful reason for doing it this way. Are there any rules issues that would be caused by a creature simply transforming into a planeswalker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2021-10-04T06:30:13.987" LastActivityDate="2021-10-04T06:30:13.987" Title="Why do double-faced planeswalkers from Origins get exiled before being transformed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|mtg-planeswalkers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25204" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:10:50.880" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main reasons for this way of doing it, one mechanics based, and one flavor based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mechanical reason is that if they just transformed they would need to have additional text to put the loyalty counters on them, whereas if they exile then enter transformed they enter with the appropriate number of loyalty counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The flavor reason is it represents them Planeswalking when their spark ignites, then returning to help you out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T15:10:50.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25207" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:46:57.443" Score="6" ViewCount="1239" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played MTG casually a couple times, built some starter decks, but gave all my cards away in a purge a couple years ago. I want to get back into Magic, but after reading about all of the upcoming changes at the end of this summer (so, a month from now?), I'm not sure how to pick it back up. Should I buy a core set anyways to start building decks, or hold off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13184" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T13:17:29.460" Title="Starting out in MTG, but core sets are being phased out, so what to do?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-28T12:40:26.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25206" CreationDate="2015-07-18T15:55:39.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to start with a core set, Magic Origins is fine to buy - it's going to be in standard another 18 months. The changes are all in the future: no more core sets after this one, two-set blocks, changed rotation schedule. But that doesn't change that Magic Origins is here now!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if nothing were changing, it'd still be another year until the next core set, and if you're going to actually get into the game, a year is plenty of time that by then you wouldn't be worrying about core set vs &quot;expert&quot; expansion anyway. So it doesn't seem like the changes are really taking any intro-level stuff away from you. Besides, Wizards knows they need to keep the game at least a bit accessible to new players; I'm sure they'll keep creating things like the Duel Decks that'll give you a way to pick it up even once the core sets are gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T15:55:39.027" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23489" CreationDate="2015-07-18T21:59:02.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the attacker wins the battle, and has at least one unit left, he gains a permanent Battle VP. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English rulebook doesn't seem to be clear about the movements, but the German version clearly states that in the case of an Attack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The movement ends in every case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T21:59:02.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23488" CreationDate="2015-07-18T22:07:15.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you said in the question, Crusade gives you ☥ for units killed in Battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you also stated correctly, the effects of the Initiative happen before the Battle. (The power tile itself shows that it's a day phrase tile, not a battle phrase tile.) Therefore the kills of the Initiative won't generate ☥.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is no mystery with the Escape DI card: it cancels the Battle. Therefore effects before the battle phrase can't happen. Therefore the Initiative tile won't have effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T22:07:15.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23487" CreationDate="2015-07-18T22:20:00.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook doesn't say anything about recalling creatures, but you can't recall single units either, only a whole group and only after a battle. I guess it's safe to assume that it's not possible to recall a creature and put another one in the same group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only trick I see to achieve this is to move with the creature you want to remove from the group, split the group and take one unit with you. Go into a battle and call that unit back (or have it killed) and with the next recruitment put it back into the original group with a different creature. (Assuming the remains of the original groups are in your city.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this solution may be too complicated to be actually worth to play though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastActivityDate="2015-07-18T22:20:00.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25214" CreationDate="2015-07-19T03:35:14.133" Score="2" ViewCount="1936" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does spreading the bite effect end at the colony if the last player survivor dies, or does it spread to helpless survivors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T09:27:49.063" Title="Does spreading a bite effect at the colony affect helpless survivors?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25213" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25215" CreationDate="2015-07-19T07:15:25.070" Score="5" ViewCount="31291" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a 5/5 creature with double strike and lifelink. I attack with the 5/5 and my opponent blocks with a 1/1. The creature is killed by the damage in the first strike phase and I gain 5 life. Do I gain an additional 5 life in the normal damage phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T04:57:52.737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T16:01:54.357" Title="Double Strike with Lifelink that destroys its blocker in the first strike phase" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-07-20T23:09:13.993" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25212" CreationDate="2015-07-19T09:27:49.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Helpless survivors are not affected by the spreading of a bite effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bite effects spread to the character with the lowest influence first. Helpless survivors do not have any stats (If they did, I would assume that they would have the lowest influence out of all the survivors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact wording in the rules (page 11) is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Roll the exposure die again. On a blank result, the survivor that the&#xA;  bite effect spread to is not killed and the bite effect stops&#xA;  spreading. On any other result, the survivor that the bite effect&#xA;  spread to is killed and the bite effect spreads again. The bite effect&#xA;  will continue to spread until a player either chooses option 1, rolls&#xA;  a blank result after choosing option 2, or there are no more survivors&#xA;  at the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T09:27:49.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25213" CreationDate="2015-07-19T11:55:38.857" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Ikegami mentioned in a comment, the answer is no. Double strike (as well as first strike) adds an additional combat damage step where creatures with double (or first) strike deal their damage. Creatures that die as a result of this damage will be removed from combat before the second combat damage step happens. So the order of things is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attacker: 5/5 double strike lifelink creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blocker: 1/1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'First strike' combat damage step: attacker deals 5 damage to blocker, blocker dies and is moved to its controller's graveyard. Attacker's controller gains 5 life in this step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;'Regular' combat damage step: the attacker has no blocker (it died the previous step) so it doesn't deal combat damage. Any other attacking and blocking creatures deal combat damage as usual. This includes any creatures that survived the first strike damage step but did not deal damage in it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 5/5 double strike is blocked by any creature with toughness 6 or greater, both these creatures will deal combat damage in the regular combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.4. Double Strike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.4a Double strike is a static ability that modifies the rules for the combat damage step. (See rule 510, “Combat Damage Step.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.4b If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. &lt;strong&gt;After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike&lt;/strong&gt;. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.4c Removing double strike from a creature during the first combat damage step will stop it from assigning combat damage in the second combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.4d Giving double strike to a creature with first strike after it has already dealt combat damage in the first combat damage step will allow the creature to assign combat damage in the second combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.4e Multiple instances of double strike on the same creature are redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blocked Creature: An attacking creature that another creature blocks or that an effect causes to become blocked. It remains a blocked creature until it's removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. See rule 509, &quot;Declare Blockers Step.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c. A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T16:01:54.357" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T16:01:54.357" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25213" CreationDate="2015-07-19T18:56:35.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/25215/10162&quot;&gt;Ashley's answer&lt;/a&gt;, a creature with double strike &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; trample will still assign damage in &lt;em&gt;both phases&lt;/em&gt; if it's blocked but the blocking creature is no longer in play.  That's because of this rule for trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.19c If an attacking creature with trample is blocked, but there are no creatures blocking it when&#xA;  damage is assigned, all its damage is assigned to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, if your 5/5 also had trample, you would gain 10 life (and your opponent would take 9 damage).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-19T18:56:35.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25217" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25218" CreationDate="2015-07-19T21:31:21.617" Score="4" ViewCount="5350" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as some Nav cards give you Cargo and Contraband, which you can sell to a contact for cash, some situations result in  you having extra Passengers or Fugitives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know they may be useful to keep in case they are needed for a later mission, &lt;em&gt;but is there any way to cash in on them at a location, like you can with cargo and contraband?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im playing currently with the vanilla Core set &lt;strong&gt;of Firefly the Board Game&lt;/strong&gt;, but will accept answers related to the expansions, if its just not possible to &quot;sell&quot; fugitives or passengers in the core set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13189" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-07-20T03:02:55.803" LastActivityDate="2017-10-03T21:09:14.940" Title="Passengers and Fugitives: can they be cashed in at a location, like goods?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25217" CreationDate="2015-07-20T03:06:06.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way in either the base game or any of the expansions to &quot;sell&quot; fugitive or passengers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://fireflyboardgame.com/howtoplay/FAQ.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The FAQ&lt;/a&gt; describes the only way to get rid of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may drop Fugitives and Passengers off in any sector with a Planet (you can’t toss them out the air-lock in deep space). This does not use an Action and can be done during another Action, on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thematically this makes sense. Goods left over from a failed job or found from salvage still have value to others aside from their intended recipient. People however want to get to a certain place and won't be willing to pay if they wound up somewhere else (would you pay if an airline dropped you off at the wrong city?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-07-20T03:06:06.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25220" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25221" CreationDate="2015-07-21T01:47:15.577" Score="4" ViewCount="3152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding the structure of rules text in regards to abilities and effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=134751&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Incinerate&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Incinerate deals 3 damage to target creature or player. A creature dealt damage this way can't be regenerated this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of that text is on a single line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=87919&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Remand&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Counter target spell. If that spell is countered this way, put it into its owner's hand instead of into that player's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, much like Incinerate, we seem to have a Spell Ability that generates a one-shot effect as well as a continuous effect - both on a single line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remand differs, however, in that it seems to also generate a 2nd one-shot effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is perhaps pedantic, but I'm trying to reconcile the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities generate one or more effects,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;609.1. An effect is something that happens in the game as a result of a spell or ability. When a spell, activated ability, or triggered ability resolves, it may create one or more one-shot or continuous effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...but sometimes these effects are listed in separate paragraphs, as if they were themselves abilities (like alternate costs etc.), and sometimes these effects are listed in one paragraph and are seemingly sharing a subject, or &quot;linked&quot; in some way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can find traces in the rules of linked abilities, but the sentences that begin each of the above cards' rules text seem more like linked-effects of a single ability (the spell ability), and I can't find anything mentioning that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the extra paragraph/line break signify?  Why is it there sometimes and not there others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the following, which calls out what paragraph breaks mean, Remand's 2nd paragraph could be interpreted (obviously incorrectly) as an &quot;ability&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.2c An object may have multiple abilities. If the object is represented by a card, then aside from certain defined abilities that may be strung together on a single line (see rule 702, &quot;Keyword Abilities&quot;), each paragraph break in a card's text marks a separate ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Remand generate 2 effects or 3 upon resolving the spell ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13198" LastEditorUserId="13198" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T02:15:10.170" LastActivityDate="2019-11-16T16:08:38.230" Title="multiple lines in spell abilities - why new paragraph sometimes" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25220" CreationDate="2015-07-21T02:01:25.923" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The paragraph breaks are only there for clarity. You always do everything the card says, and there's nothing in the game that tries to count how many effects a spell had. That said, Wizards is pretty consistent about doing this for readability, I think in roughly the way you've noted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incinerate is all in one paragraph because it's all related; the second sentence wouldn't make any sense without the first. It has a one-shot effect (dealing damage) and also creates a related continuous effect (no regeneration) that lasts until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remand does two entirely separate things, so they split it up to make it read more easily. The first part is a one-shot effect (counter the spell) with a related replacement effect (if it's countered, return it to hand instead). The second part is another one-shot effect (draw a card). It would do exactly the same thing if the paragraph break were removed, though - and in fact, if it were the effect of an activated ability on a permanent instead of a spell on its own, it would presumably be written as one paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions you follow while resolving an instant or sorcery are spell abilities (112.3a), so in combination with 112.2c, I believe that &lt;a href=&quot;https://xkcd.com/1475/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;technically&lt;/a&gt; means that Incinerate has one spell ability and Remand has two. I can't think of anything in the rules or the game that actually cares about that fact, though. The rules really only even mention spell abilities in a couple places where they need a phrase to specify that something is part of resolving a spell, like the first part of Cipher (the part that lets you encode the spell). Splitting abilities on paragraph breaks is far more important on permanents, where they might be activated or triggered abilities that really need to be clearly delineated. For example, on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Tempest&quot;&gt;Dragon Tempest&lt;/a&gt;, it's important that the two paragraphs are separate abilities!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, linked abilities do exist, and two linked abilities are often put in multiple paragraphs (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;). But the paragraph break isn't what makes something a linked ability. There are a variety of things that indicate a linked ability (e.g. &amp;quot;cards exiled with X&amp;quot;) but only one mentions paragraph breaks and in fact requires them to be in the same paragraph to be linked (static abilities and triggered abilities in the same paragraph are linked). There's none of that going on here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T02:35:52.743" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T02:35:52.743" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25222" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25223" CreationDate="2015-07-21T06:31:11.170" Score="2" ViewCount="410" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been looking at some papers about developing AI players for Texas Hold'em, and many of them have used betting history from expert human players as training data.  I have so far been unable to find a paper that referenced where they got that betting history.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where can I find betting history for 'no limits' Texas Hold'em games?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I imagine the game history will be in the format of a log file containing the number of chips each player has, the cards dealt to each player, and all the bets made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of a paper I looked at:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://ijcai.org/papers13/Papers/IJCAI13-457.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Decision Generalisation from Game Logs in No Limit Texas Hold’em &lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T18:37:21.453" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T07:05:00.303" Title="Where can I find 'no limits' Texas Hold'em game logs?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25222" CreationDate="2015-07-21T09:17:02.383" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://repositorio-aberto.up.pt/bitstream/10216/59566/1/000143811.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Building a Poker Playing Agent based on Game Logs using Supervised Learning&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found this paper on creating a Hold'em AI that refers to two external log files on page 100 of that paper. One no longer exists. The other, from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.hhsmithy.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hhsmithy&lt;/a&gt;, costs a couple bucks. They offer logs from various sources, including Poker Stars, Full Tilt Poker and Party Poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also offer a smaller, free set that you can use to build your setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T07:05:00.303" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T07:05:00.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25224" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:27:51.353" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T11:27:51.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T11:27:51.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25225" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-21T11:27:51.353" Score="0" Body="A card game similar to Contract Rummy for two - six players.  The aim is to complete 10 melds in sequence." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T15:30:31.413" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T15:30:31.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25228" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:06:07.033" Score="4" ViewCount="14765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a card named &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220152&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doubling Chant&lt;/a&gt;, the effect of this card is &quot;For each creature you control, Search your library for a creature with the same name and put it onto the battlefield. Then Shuffle your library&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this phase can I then attack with the creatures gained this way or do they suffer from summoning sickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that If they do not have haste they suffer but doubling them seems to suggest a mirroring of the original creature at the time... Its a vague mechanic in all honesty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:59:02.853" Title="Do creatures put on the battlefield via a sorcery have summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-22T17:23:52.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3801" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:07:31.820" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A useful statistic/calculation is the various combinations of settlements, cities, and development cards that add up to 10 VPs. Also the best combinations according to general terrain production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13201" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T20:43:24.617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T20:43:24.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25226" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:12:33.770" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness applies to all creatures without haste, regardless of how they came to be. From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.6. A creature’s activated ability with the tap symbol or the untap symbol in its activation cost can’t be activated unless the creature has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can’t attack unless it has been under its controller’s control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the “summoning sickness” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Summoning sickness&quot; is not a characteristic of the card. It cannot be copied or added. Haste allows creatures to ignore the rule, but if they somehow lose haste, then the rule will apply once again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature does not &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; summoning sickness; a creature &lt;em&gt;is affected by&lt;/em&gt; the summoning sickness rule. The former is just an easier concept for players to latch on to, and it works most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Judge's Corner (on YouTube) has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asYHxwoElIM&quot;&gt;a video on Summoning Sickness&lt;/a&gt; that explains the ins and outs of summoning sickness in greater detail. Both new and veteran players will get something out of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-21T14:59:02.853" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T14:59:02.853" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25229" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T14:57:27.423" Score="1" ViewCount="3395" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Infect ability is worded as follows: Infect (This creature deals damage to creatures in the form of -1/-1 counters and to players in the form of poison counters.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just wondering if these -1/-1 counters stay on the creature who blocked the creature with infect or do the -1/-1 counters go away at my end step? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13202" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T03:53:45.430" Title="If someone blocks an infect creature, do the -1/-1 counters stay on the creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25229" CreationDate="2015-07-21T15:03:42.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They stay on the creature. The rules for Infect say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.89c&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt to a creature by a source with infect isn’t marked on that creature. Rather, it causes that many -1/-1 counters to be put on that creature. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the rules that removes them, therefore they stay on the damaged creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Gatherer rulings on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vector%20Asp&quot;&gt;Vector Asp&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The -1/-1 counters remain on the creature indefinitely. They're not removed if the creature regenerates or the turn ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T15:03:42.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25229" CreationDate="2015-07-21T16:45:52.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are not removed at the end of your turn. In fact, there are very, very few instances in which the rules remove counters from objects. They are the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dealing damage to a Planeswalker removes loyalty counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs cancel out +1/+1 and -1/-1 counter pairs by removing them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;SBAs remove extra counters when a permanent has a limit to how many of a given kind of counters it can have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's it. Counters are never removed from objects except in those circumstances, or by abilities that instruct you to move or remove them. This includes the following three keyword abilities that remove counters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fading (fade counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspend (time counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanishing (time counter)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-07-21T16:45:52.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25233" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-21T18:10:05.010" Score="2" ViewCount="1175" Body="&lt;p&gt;I open with 1 club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Left bids 1 hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My partner bids 1 spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How many spades can I assume my partner has?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13206" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T04:48:57.833" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T03:42:06.203" Title="How many spades does my partner have when responding to my opening 1club bid and left overcalls 1 heart" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25235" CreationDate="2015-07-22T01:01:37.377" Score="40" ViewCount="57363" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: this is intended to be a canonical question about summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Summoning sickness&quot;, broadly, is the rule that stops you from attacking or paying {T} costs with a creature that you just played. But how exactly does it work? How does it interact with other rules and effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I'm trying to figure out how a creature is affected:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the status matter (tapped/untapped, face down/face up, etc.)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it came into play, but I didn't cast it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it's a token?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it was on the battlefield when my turn started, but it wasn't a creature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it stops being a creature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it's a creature and also another card type?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it's a double-faced card that just transformed?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it changes control?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What if it's a copy of another creature?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which of the creature's activated abilities can I use?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are any of its other abilities affected?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I tap the creature to pay a cost that is not a {T} cost?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(These examples are primarily taken from questions about summoning sickness that have already been asked on the site)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T01:08:38.270" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T19:28:56.363" Title="What is &quot;summoning sickness&quot; and how does it affect my creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25234" CreationDate="2015-07-22T01:01:37.377" Score="44" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Summoning Sickness&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Summoning Sickness&amp;quot; is simply the name for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Creature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 302.6&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature's activated ability with the tap symbol [{T}] or the untap symbol [{Q}] in its activation cost can't be activated unless the creature has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. A creature can't attack unless it has been under its controller's control continuously since his or her most recent turn began. This rule is informally called the &amp;quot;summoning sickness&amp;quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not a status or effect on a creature. It is simply a rule that restricts how you can use a creature that just entered play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;In other words&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Which creatures are affected?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 302.6 only checks for two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The permanent is a creature&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter how the creature entered the battlefield or whether it's represented by a card or a token. It also doesn't matter &lt;strong&gt;when&lt;/strong&gt; it became a creature; it's still the same permanent when it changes types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It was &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; under your control continuously since the beginning of your most recent turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This just means that if, at any time since the beginning of your most recent turn, you did not control the creature, then it has summoning sickness. If it is currently your turn, the current turn is your most recent turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: During your turn, you cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt;. Once it is on the battlefield, it is affected by summoning sickness until the beginning of your next turn&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Amulet&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Amulet&lt;/a&gt;, an artifact with the ability &amp;quot;{4}, {T}: You may put a creature card from your hand onto the battlefield.&amp;quot; You activate it and put a Grizzly Bears onto the battlefield. That Grizzly Bears is affected by summoning sickness until the beginning of your next turn&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krenko%27s%20Command&quot;&gt;Krenko&amp;#39;s Command&lt;/a&gt;, which has the text &amp;quot;Create two 1/1 red Goblin creature tokens.&amp;quot; Those goblin tokens are affected by summoning sickness until the beginning of your next turn&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Entrancing%20Melody&quot;&gt;Entrancing Melody&lt;/a&gt; targeting an opponent's Grizzly Bears. After Entrancing Melody resolves and you control the Grizzly Bears, it is affected by summoning sickness until the beginning of your next turn&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sky%20Skiff&quot;&gt;Sky Skiff&lt;/a&gt;, and later in the same turn, you activate its Crew ability. After the Crew ability resolves, the Sky Skiff is affected by summoning sickness&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sky%20Skiff&quot;&gt;Sky Skiff&lt;/a&gt; at the beginning of your turn. During that turn you activate its Crew ability. After the crew ability resolves, the Sky Skiff is not affected by summoning sickness&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How are those creatures affected?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 302.6 only prevents the creatures it affects from doing 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attacking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the creature cannot be declared as an attacker during your combat phase. It can still block, fight, or be put onto the battlefield attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Activating their own abilities with the tap symbol {T} in the cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Activating their own abilities with the untap symbol {Q} in the cost&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness does not prevent you from paying other costs, even if they involve tapping the creature. It also does not prevent you from activating abilities without {T} or {Q} in the cost. And it has no effect on other kinds of abilities, like static or triggered abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loam%20Dryad&quot;&gt;Loam Dryad&lt;/a&gt;, a creature with the ability &amp;quot;{T}, Tap an untapped creature you control: Add one mana of any color.&amp;quot; You can only activate this ability if Loam Dryad is unaffected by summoning sickness, but you can tap any other creature you control to pay for the ability, even if the other creature is affected by summoning sickness&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: You control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heritage%20Druid&quot;&gt;Heritage Druid&lt;/a&gt;, an elf creature with the ability &amp;quot;Tap three untapped Elves you control: Add {G}{G}{G}&amp;quot;. You can tap any three elves you control, including Heritage Druid itself, to activate the ability, whether or not any of them are affected by summoning sickness&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Haste&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a single exception to this rule: Haste. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Haste&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Haste&lt;/a&gt; say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.10a&lt;/strong&gt; Haste is a static ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.10b&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has haste, it can attack even if it hasn’t been controlled by its controller continuously since his or her most recent turn began. (See rule 302.6.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.10c&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has haste, its controller can activate its activated abilities whose cost includes the tap symbol or the untap symbol even if that creature hasn’t been controlled by that player continuously since his or her most recent turn began. (See rule 302.6.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.10d&lt;/strong&gt; Multiple instances of haste on the same creature are redundant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, if a creature has haste, it can ignore rule 302.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Suspend, Unearth, Dash, Awaken, and Riot can grant Haste. At the time of this writing, no other keyword abilities do. In particular, Flash does not grant Haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Specific Cases&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Does status matter?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, the rule describing status is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 110.6&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A permanent's &lt;em&gt;status&lt;/em&gt; is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two possible values: tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, face up/face down, and phased in/phased out. Each permanent always has one of these values for each of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature's status is independent of summoning sickness. In other words, if a creature enters the battlefield tapped or face down, it is still affected by summoning sickness like normal. And if the status changes, it's still the same creature, so you still just have to check whether you controlled the creature since your turn started to determine whether it's affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, summoning sickness does not affect a creature's status. Being summoning sick does not change whether a creature is tapped vs. untapped or face up vs. face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What if it's a creature with another card type?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then it is affected by summoning sickness, just like any other creature. The summoning sickness rule only checks whether the permanent &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a creature. It doesn't check that it &lt;strong&gt;is not&lt;/strong&gt; any other type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A special mention should be made for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=282542&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt;. Because it is a Forest, it has an intrinsic ability (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Land&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 305.6&lt;/a&gt;) that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that ability has {T} in the cost, you cannot activate it as long as Dryad Arbor is affected by summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What if it's a double-faced card that just transformed?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Double-faced_cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 711&lt;/a&gt; describes how double-faced cards work, and 711.7 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a double-faced permanent transforms, it doesn't become a new object. Any effects that applied to that permanent will continue to apply to it after it transforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the purposes of this question, that means that when a creature transforms, it is only affected by summoning sickness if it was affected before it transformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;What if it's a copy of another creature?&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If creature A enters the battlefield as a copy of creature B, then creature A is affected by summoning sickness, like any other creature that just entered the battlefield. (This is true even if it's a token.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If creature A becomes a copy of creature B, then it is only affected by summoning sickness if it would have been affected before it became a copy. It doesn't matter whether creature B was affected by summoning sickness. This is analogous to the &amp;quot;transform&amp;quot; case: the creature's &lt;strong&gt;characteristics&lt;/strong&gt; change, but it's still the same object that it was before it changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Copying_objects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 706.2&lt;/a&gt; says, in part&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;copiable values&amp;quot; are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being name, mana cost, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by its face-down status, and by “as . . . enters the battlefield” and &amp;quot;as . . . is turned face up&amp;quot; abilities that set power and toughness (and may also set additional characteristics). Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importantly, summoning sickness is not mentioned here, and neither is anything that rule 302.6 checks for except type. If the copy isn't a creature, it is not affected by summoning sickness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2022-11-27T19:28:56.363" LastActivityDate="2022-11-27T19:28:56.363" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26874" CreationDate="2015-07-22T04:48:38.660" Score="0" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instuctions &lt;a href=&quot;https://s3.amazonaws.com/download.thegamecrafter.com/1437540315/Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of any turn in which a hostile alien is present, add a damage token to any system that already has a damage token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean if an alien is anywhere in the ship, that all systems with damage accrue damage, or only damaged systems in the same room that has an alien?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T16:01:50.827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T22:36:45.220" Title="In The Captain Is Dead Episode 2: Adrift, do all systems with any damage gain damage no matter where hostile aliens are?" Tags="|the-captain-is-dead|the-captain-is-dead-adrift|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25233" CreationDate="2015-07-22T04:55:24.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you have &lt;em&gt;Negative Doubles&lt;/em&gt;, sometimes called &lt;em&gt;Sputnik Doubles&lt;/em&gt;, in your arsenal of agreements, then partner is showing 5 or more Spades. With only four Spades partner would double instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The argument might be presented that partner is coming in with only 4 good spades as a lead directing call, but there is no reason for this. First, partner is odds on to have the opening lead if opponents win the auction; and second the double would also show a spade holding. Consequently this argument holds no water &lt;em&gt;on this auction&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not playing &lt;em&gt;Negative Doubles&lt;/em&gt; then partner's call should &lt;strong&gt;either&lt;/strong&gt; show five Spades and at least a minimum responding hand (normally 5+ HCP in standard systems), &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; four spades and a hand worth at least two free bids, normally 9+ HCP or so in standard systems). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the two-way call is that with the stronger hand partner must make it clear that your side likely owns the auction, and can compete possibly to the 2- or 3-level.  You can determine after partner's next call if he might have only 4 Spades, with extra points. Initially assume partner is only showing 4 spades in this case, though it is acceptable to make a single raise to 2 with only three-card support if you are minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T04:55:24.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25240" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-22T05:00:07.743" Score="7" ViewCount="4167" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game balance in &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/em&gt; (in my social not highly competitive environment) seems to favour the person with the longest destination tickets and getting short tickets is almost automatically a loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been wondering about game balance in &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/em&gt; and thought a good idea might be to allow a player to draw a new ticket after completing a mission and being allowed to throw it back if they don't want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps we play in too friendly a fashion and the person with small tickets should be more disruptive of long routes but what are people's thoughts on the game balance and this suggestion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13213" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T09:17:21.230" LastActivityDate="2017-12-25T11:07:27.907" Title="Ticket to Ride house rule to help players with short destination tickets" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|balance|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-07-22T07:16:05.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, without the risk of beïng disrupted, the long routes are a winner. I'm not sure if your solution helps. But I have a few of my own:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disregard the points for the routes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Divide the routes in three stacks (long, middle and short). First deplete the long routes, then the middle and then the short. That way each player has a similar chance for long routes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T07:16:05.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-07-22T07:29:31.923" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goal in TTR is not &quot;complete the cards you're given&quot;, it's &quot;get the most points&quot;. There are plenty of ways to do this with short routes (e.g. by focusing on building only length 4+, not going for longest route, and picking the spots where everyone wants to go).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one in your group wants to adjust their play style to match the cards they're dealt, then you obviously don't want to play the game as intended. A rule change might be an outcome, but this perceived unfairness might be part of the process of getting to know the game mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I (...) thought a good idea might be to allow a player to draw a new ticket after completing a mission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule comes with a drawback. You would have to show your completed routes, which is something you would normally do at the end of the game. I would not recommend this as it would upset yet another part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T08:59:47.493" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T08:59:47.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27018" CreationDate="2015-07-22T11:06:51.350" Score="4" ViewCount="3212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just read about Nigel Richards &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-33606449&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;winning the french scrabble championship&lt;/a&gt; after learning 370,000 french words by heart. There was also mentioned that the Islandic scrabble society invited him to the local championship, saying that they had over 2 million allowed words. So I wondered how many allowed scrabble words there are in the different languages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I don't expect any single answer to be exhaustive, there are a lot of languages out there. Maybe start with English (and there seem to be differences between UK/US) and then see for whatever other languages you can find the relevant information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13214" LastEditorUserId="13214" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T14:29:16.140" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T10:53:45.360" Title="How many allowed scrabble words are there in different languages" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25206" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:17:29.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can also get Clash packs, which are really good value for their cost. The new release &quot;Outlast&quot; is said to be worth Twice its price. they give you two Set Decks of 60 cards that work Flawlessly. I have bought this pack myself so I know from experience. Alternatively there maybe certain places you can go that Host &quot;Friday Night Magic&quot; it is getting increasingly popular, that's how I started up again recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are Deck builders toolkits available that give you a lot of cards like over 300. with every colour, from them you can make decks that suit you. the hardest thing I thought to get used to was the introduction of multicolour decks but they are easy to pick up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just make sure you stick to 60 cards as a precaution as in my opinion it makes it easier to get what you need out of the deck. Also Check the website: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magic.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt; that should have a place to show you the rules and how to play. Good Luck! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T13:17:29.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25243" CreationDate="2015-07-22T13:34:08.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer will vary widely per language and will depend on how new words are created in a language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agglutinative_language&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;agglutinative language&lt;/a&gt;, words are created by joining words together. For instance, a chair you use at a desk in the office, an office chair, is &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; word in German, &quot;ein Bürostuhl&quot; (literally a &quot;deskchair&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, that way new words are created easily and on the fly. That is why Icelandic has such a large dictionary, which is not even exhaustive &amp;mdash; it &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to your question will be &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;. Perhaps you should restrict your question to a specific language, as not all languages are as liberal in word formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Dutch: 652,000 words&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dutch Scrabble association, the  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.scrabblebond.nl/taal.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scrabble Bond Nederland&lt;/a&gt; (SBNL) uses the Scrabble Word List (SWL) for words up to 9 letters and publishes separate lists for 10, 11, and 12 letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The SWL contains over 242,000 words, the supplemental lists contain about 125,000 words, about 141,000 words, and about 144,000 words respectively, for a grand total of 652,000 words of length 2 to 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;English: 279,000 words&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The World English-language Scrabble Players Association (WESPA) states in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wespa.org/rules/main.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;its rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Global word source&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The word source used in global Scrabble, known as Collins Scrabble Words or CSW (formerly Official Scrabble Words or OSW) is actually not a single dictionary, but an amalgam of three: Collins, Chambers and TWL, the current Northern American wordlist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TWL (Tournament Word List) is itself drawn from a range of sources, mostly different editions of Webster's. Americans and Canadians play by CSW rules in international tournaments and TWL in 'domestic' North American tournaments. But they are increasingly introducing CSW grades in various tournaments, and even some solely CSW tournaments. WESPA hopes this North American isolationism will end one day, for the good of global Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collins states on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.collinsdictionary.com/scrabble/scrabble-tools/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;its website&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Based on Collins English Dictionary, Collins Official Scrabble™ Words 2019 is the most comprehensive Scrabble™ word list ever, including World English from Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa, UK, and USA brought together in a single list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;With more than 279,000 permissible words&lt;/strong&gt;, including inflected forms, this is a must for anyone playing Scrabble. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;sub&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;French: 393,670 words&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The French Scrabble association, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fisf.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;La Fédération Internationale de Scrabble Francophone&lt;/a&gt; (FISF), uses &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fisf.net/officiel-du-scrabble/presentation.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;L'Officiel du Scrabble&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; which is currently in its seventh version, containing 393,670 words from 2 to 15 letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;German: 180,000&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrabble#Literatur_2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;German Wikipedia article on Scrabble&lt;/a&gt; quotes a source about &quot;120,000 words&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://scrabble-info.de/woerterliste/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scrabble Deutschland e.V.&lt;/a&gt; states the official list contains 179,998 words of 2 to 9 letters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'll add more sources and languages as I find them.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2020-01-21T10:53:45.360" LastActivityDate="2020-01-21T10:53:45.360" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25249" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:26:21.560" Score="2" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Magic Duels: Origins and I blocked a 2/2 with a 1/1 double strike and a 1/1 first strike. My interpretation is that that equals 2 damage during the first strike phase and 1 damage during the combat phase from my creatures, and 2 damage during the combat phase from his. However, this resulted in all three creatures being destroyed. Is there an interaction between first strike and double strike I'm unaware of, or is the game coded wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T15:43:05.830" Title="Blocker with First Strike and Blocker with Double Strike" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25248" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25717" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:40:39.570" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Super Secret ability Ultra Bright smile lets you eat escaped meeples then you can rearrange the remaining escaped meeples. My question regards rearranging the remaining meeples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first level of the escape board has 3 slots and the second has 5 slots. Lets say that after I eat, there are 6 meeples left. Do I have to fill the first row and put the remaining 3 meeples in the second row? Or could I put 2 meeples on the first row and 4 on the second?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8021" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T16:38:08.990" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T10:33:15.473" Title="How do I have to arrange the remaining meeples after using the Ultra Bright Smile ability?" Tags="|terror-in-meeple-city|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25247" CreationDate="2015-07-22T15:43:05.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like it is a bug. Since the way the Combat Damage Step works is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player decides how their creatures will deal damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If any creatures have First Strike or Double Strike they deal their damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State Based Actions are checked, anything that triggers off of damage happens, players get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any creatures with Double Strike or that didn't deal damage in the first Combat Damage Step deal their damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what should have happened is what you were expecting, your creatures deal 1 damage each in the first Combat Damage Step, then when SBAs are checked it should have died due to having damage marked on it equal to its toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T15:43:05.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25250" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:09:07.710" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A collectible game for two players who control a team of super-powered characters from comic books, cartoons and other universes. Players field characters with dice determining the character stats and cards determining character special abilities, and players can buy blind-packed boosters with 2 dice and 2 cards in each pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:09:07.710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:09:07.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25251" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-22T17:09:07.710" Score="0" Body="A collectible game for two players who control a team of super-powered characters from comic books, cartoons and other universes. Players field characters with dice determining the character stats and cards determining character special abilities, and players can buy blind-packed boosters with 2 dice and 2 cards in each pack." OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-22T17:09:07.710" LastActivityDate="2015-07-22T17:09:07.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25253" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25254" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:23:38.460" Score="6" ViewCount="846" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382377&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; counters activated abilities. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3674&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quirion Ranger&lt;/a&gt; has an activated ability that can only be activated once each turn. Does the ability count as being activated for the turn if it was stifled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T00:30:40.527" LastActivityDate="2019-04-05T23:18:44.697" Title="Is an ability that can only be activated once per turn still considred activated if it gets countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25253" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:34:04.130" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the ability was still activated even if it gets countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activating the ability is merely the process of paying its costs and putting it onto the stack, completely independent of what happens after that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that has to be done before anyone gets priority and is able to Stifle it. Countering it merely causes the ability to be removed from the stack without any of its effects occurring; it doesn't rewind the game and undo it being activated in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.5a To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, once you cast a spell, it's been cast, even if it subsequently gets countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T01:34:04.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25255" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:40:46.010" Score="0" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Acolyte%20of%20the%20Inferno&quot;&gt;Acolyte of the Inferno&lt;/a&gt; has this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Acolyte of the Inferno becomes blocked by a creature, it deals 2 damage to that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean it deals 2+current power to blocking creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T01:57:13.167" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T02:02:05.947" Title="How much damage does Acolyte of the Inferno's ability deal?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25255" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:51:34.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it does exactly what it says: it deals two damage. This ability will trigger in the declare blockers step, when your opponent declares a blocker for the Acolyte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature isn't already dead from that two damage, then in the combat damage step, it will also deal damage equal to its power to the blocking creature. (Of course, if the blocking creature has first strike, it would kill Acolyte of the Inferno before it got to deal its combat damage.) So in some cases the total damage dealt will be two plus its power, but it can also easily be just two damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature's power is the amount of damage it'll deal when it deals combat damage, to your opponent or a blocking creature when you've attacked, or to your opponent's attacking creature when you've blocked. Any abilities like this are completely independent of the creature's power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beyond that, if a card cares about a creature's power, it'll explicitly say so. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tail%20Slash&quot;&gt;Tail Slash&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target creature you control deals damage equal to its power to target creature you don't control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the &amp;quot;fight&amp;quot; mechanic, for example on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Punch&quot;&gt;Savage Punch&lt;/a&gt;; when two creatures fight, each deals damage equal to its power to the other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some creatures even have abilities built in that do things like this, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spikeshot%20Elder&quot;&gt;Spikeshot Elder&lt;/a&gt;. But again, everything like this explicitly mentions the creature's power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T02:02:05.947" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T02:02:05.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25255" CreationDate="2015-07-23T01:52:00.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. When the Acolyte is blocked, it immediately deals two damage to that creature, before combat damage is handled. This goes on the stack the same as instants that would be cast after blockers are assigned but before damage is dealt. This means that if it is blocked by a one or two toughness creature, that creature dies &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; dealing damage to the acolyte.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T01:52:00.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T08:03:24.583" Score="0" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this may really sound dumb for asking, but..&#xA;Say you have a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragonrage&quot;&gt;Dragonrage&lt;/a&gt; and it applies onto say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Favored%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Favored Hoplite&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Dragonrage's affect will trigger Heroic, but the &amp;quot;R: This creature gains +1/+0&amp;quot; wouldnt affect Heroic if used correct since it isn't technically a spell right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13223" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T12:47:22.257" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:49:56.570" Title="Spells placing effects on heroic" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-heroic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25259" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-23T08:40:58.527" Score="0" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played in a Standard draft at Friday night magic and I was informed that there are certain specific sets of cards that can be used in Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware that Modern includes all standard cards also. what I want to know is how can you distinguish which cards you can use in standard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any symbolisation for a standard card? As the markers in the right hand side of the creature type line such as M14 and so on seem to not make much difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T08:40:58.527" Title="How can you distinguish a &quot;Standard&quot; Card fro a &quot;Modern&quot; Card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-07-23T11:46:17.987" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25258" CreationDate="2015-07-23T11:39:47.050" Score="10" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the Dragonrage's affect will trigger Heroic...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, it doesn't. The word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; doesn't appear anywhere on Dragonrage, and it's not an aura, so it doesn't target, and so it doesn't trigger heroic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an alternative example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Mantle&quot;&gt;Dragon Mantle&lt;/a&gt; is an aura, so it does trigger heroic when you initially cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the &amp;quot;R: This creature gains +1/+0&amp;quot; wouldn't affect Heroic if used correct since it isn't technically a spell right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right. This is an activated ability, not a spell. Additionally, it doesn't target, so even if it was a spell, it wouldn't trigger heroic anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T12:49:56.570" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:49:56.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25272" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:55:15.997" Score="2" ViewCount="2150" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought Dixit Odyssey to enable more players at the same time. One thing about Odyssey that I absolutely don't like, is the new voting system with the cards and pegs. It's a lot harder to tell who's already placed a vote and we generally end up needlessly waiting for everyone to vote (when everyone already has).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We'd really like to go back to using upside down numbered tokens to vote with. Where can I get those for 12 players (in the right colors)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T08:24:52.960" LastActivityDate="2020-03-21T22:13:39.447" Title="Alternative to Dixit Odyssey voting boards+pegs" Tags="|dixit|dixit-odyssey|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25262" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:56:13.587" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T12:56:13.587" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T12:56:13.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25263" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-23T12:56:13.587" Score="0" Body="An expansion to Dixit, with extra cards and support for up to 12 players." OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-07-23T20:17:11.853" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T20:17:11.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9363" CreationDate="2015-07-23T15:26:11.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use Wizards of the Coast's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer Website&lt;/a&gt; to generate lists of cards for each format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?output=compact&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Standard%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here is a list of cards legal in Standard Constructed.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-07-23T15:26:11.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-07-24T00:04:06.293" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much have you played? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I agree that someone who gets lucky and gets several long tickets that are all along the same route will have a big advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, other players can disrupt the player by blocking his routes... in which case he loses a lot points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also - the 1910 expansion has a 'most tickets' complete bonus -which gives a bonus 15 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T00:04:06.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25271" CreationDate="2015-07-24T00:08:18.963" Score="4" ViewCount="14753" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's Andy's turn and he pays three coins to assasinate Bob. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charlie has a Contessa and wants to disrupt Andy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Charlie allowed to use his Contessa here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:31:20.463" Title="Can anyone block a steal or assasination?" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25266" CreationDate="2015-07-24T00:11:14.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, only the person who has the action taken against them can block it. It doesn't Matter if it is assassination or the stealing of coins, the target will need the card (or claim to have it) to block it. The only thing another player can do is challenge the acting player if they don't think they have the card they claim they do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T00:11:14.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:29:45.750" Score="4" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;So for example I am using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383193&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blood Host&lt;/a&gt; and I sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reassembling%20Skeleton&quot;&gt;Reassembling Skeleton&lt;/a&gt;, then revive him using his ability. The description says &amp;quot;Sacrifice another creature&amp;quot; to activate the ability. Because I have already sacrificed reassembling skeleton that turn, can I still sacrifice it again after it has been revived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13229" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T05:12:43.937" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T05:12:43.937" Title="Can I sacrifice the same creature twice with Blood Host?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25268" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:52:13.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your title here is a bit misleading; you're not actually sacrificing the same creature twice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(none of the exceptions apply here)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once you reassemble your skeleton, it's just... another creature. It doesn't matter that another one represented by the same card got sacrificed before. It's a creature on the battlefield now, so it can be sacrificed. The only restriction on Blood Host's ability is that it has to be another creature (besides that Blood Host), i.e. Blood Host can't drink its own blood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T01:52:13.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25268" CreationDate="2015-07-24T01:54:44.143" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, in this case 'another creature' means a creature other than Blood Host, not a creature that you haven't sacrificed before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if that weren't the case once it move from the battlefield to the graveyard the first time the game no longer sees it as the same creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7.&lt;/strong&gt; An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you are free to keep sacrificing the skeletons and reassembling them as long as you have the mana to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T01:54:44.143" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25266" CreationDate="2015-07-24T05:01:21.160" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Andy has his turn, the following happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Andy claims to have an Assassin, and named Charlie as his target and pays 3 coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bob and Charlie both have an opportunity to challenge Andy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Andy has not been challenged (or he was challenged but does have the Assassin), the Assassination action proceeds. If the &lt;em&gt;challenge&lt;/em&gt; was successful, the Assassination action &lt;em&gt;did not take place&lt;/em&gt; and thus Andy has his 3 coins returned to him&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Charlie (and only Charlie) may claim Contessa to block the assassination&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he does, Andy and Bob both have an opportunity to challenge Charlie&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Charlie does not (claim to) have the Contessa, the assassination goes through and Charlie loses an influence&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar effect happens with someone claiming Captain. On the other hand, &lt;em&gt;anybody&lt;/em&gt; may claim to have the Duke in order to block someone's Foreign Aid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: The game's designer, answering pretty much this exact same question on BGG: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/10440845#10440845&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/10440845#10440845&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:31:20.463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:31:20.463" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25261" CreationDate="2015-07-24T06:29:41.777" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There aren't official tokens for more than 7 players. Instead, you can have the rule that people hold their hands over their voting cards on the table to indicate readiness. That makes it easy to tell if someone is still deciding, and if you hold the voting card face down against the table it stops the pegs falling out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T06:29:41.777" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24998" CreationDate="2015-07-24T11:22:42.847" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The unique asset cards are still asset cards therefore they are discarded and not shuffled back in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12617/joey&quot;&gt;Joey&lt;/a&gt; stated in a comment: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Considering the reason they (the assert cards) are shuffled right back&#xA;  in is likely to retain the variety of these &quot;double-sided same on one&#xA;  side different on the other&quot; cards, the unique assets are likely&#xA;  handled like assets and artefacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the unique assets are unique. Which means that, from a story telling point of view, you cannot get the same one twice within a game. It would make no logical sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T06:48:30.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25276" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:22:26.527" Score="2" ViewCount="1619" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have one card placed down with a plus one to my military on phase three. I have already placed down a card in a previous settle phase that cost one military. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If another settle phase comes along can I play a hostile card that costs 1 military?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would then have placed two cards down based on that +1 military.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13231" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T16:49:52.413" Title="Does military power accumulate in Race for the Galaxy" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25274" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:49:43.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use the same military power bonus over and over again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any time, you can count up your total military power from what's in your tableau. For example, if you have Space Marines (+2) and Drop Ships (+3), your total military is 5. That means that you can conquer any military world with defense at most 5. It doesn't matter when you played each development, or what military worlds you may have played in the past; your current military power is still 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wouldn't think of it as military worlds &lt;em&gt;costing&lt;/em&gt; military to settle. You just compare your military power to their defense, and see if you have enough. Using your military power doesn't expend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T16:49:43.253" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25274" CreationDate="2015-07-24T16:49:52.413" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Military power is not &quot;used up&quot; when you settle a world. All that matters is that each time you are settling a military world, you have enough military power to meet the requirement. So yes, even if you only have 1 military power, you can settle multiple worlds that each have a requirement of 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T16:49:52.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25278" CreationDate="2015-07-24T22:18:18.587" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone has taken this card, is another player able to seize it from them by trading in trophies at the police station to become the deputy themselves? If so, do they take the Patrol Wagon (whether it has been discarded or not) and/or the Deputy's Revolver? It isn't clear whether this would be officially having it lost or stolen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-24T23:31:51.887" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T23:31:51.887" Title="Can you become the deputy of Arkham after another player has?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25277" CreationDate="2015-07-24T23:30:35.527" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is explicitly answered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Can an investigator trade in trophies to become the Deputy if another investigator is already the Deputy (the existing Deputy would stop being Deputy)? If so, do they acquire the Patrol Wagon and/or Deputy’s Revolver if they are still in the other investigator’s possession?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-24T23:30:35.527" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-25T00:26:00.577" Score="5" ViewCount="3410" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I get two creatures to fight. One is a 4/4 the other is a 1/1. The 4/4 destroys the 1/1, but does the 4/4 become effectively a 3/3, so that later in the combat step it will only be able to assign 3 damage? Or does it get its power back after the fight so it is effectively a 4/3 (a 4/4 with 1 dmg counter on it)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or say a 4/4 attacks and a 3/3 blocks. Combat resolves, the 3/3 is dead and the 4/4 is now a 1/1, so if a 2/2 then fights the 1/1 (4/4) it dies? Or does the 4/4 just become a 4/1 after combat resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm just trying to understand whether power can be used up like toughness in a turn, or if it just assigns it for the fight or combat step then resets back to full power. I understand fight is totally different to combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13234" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T00:38:24.227" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T00:43:16.737" Title="Are power and toughness &quot;used up&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25279" CreationDate="2015-07-25T00:33:24.393" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toughness never gets used up. Damage doesn't change toughness (or power), and it doesn't use counters, it's simply marked on creatures. If a creature ends up marked with damage greater than or equal to its toughness, it dies. But the whole time, the creature still has its original toughness. You probably shouldn't even think of it as having its toughness effectively reduced; that might confuse you in other situations.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, power never gets used up. When a creature deals damage, whether fighting or in combat or any other way, its power doesn't change.&#xA;If you look at the reminder text for fighting, or the full rules for it or combat damage, you'll see something like &amp;quot;...deals damage equal to its power.&amp;quot; That's all that happens: the power dictates how much damage it deals. There's nothing about the power changing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your first example, if you get a 4/4 and a 1/1 to fight, you end up with a 4/4 with one damage marked on it, and a dead 1/1. If subsequently that 4/4 gets into combat or fights again, it'll still deal four damage. It'll only take three additional damage to kill it, since it already has one marked on it. So for example, if it were blocked by a 3/4, they'd kill each other: it'd deal 4 damage to the 3/4, and the 3/4 would deal 3 damage to it, bringing it up to 4 damage, enough to kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the same thing happens in your second example. If a 3/3 creature blocks a 4/4 creature, the 3/3 will take 4 damage and die, and the 4/4 will take 3 damage and live. It'll still be a 4/4, but it'll only take one additional damage to kill it. If it then fights with a 1/4, they'll kill each other: it'll deal 4 damage to the 1/4, and the 1/4 will deal 1 damage to it, which brings it up to 4 damage, enough to kill it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;* For example, if you have a 4/4 that has 3 damage marked on it, your opponent can still use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valorous%20Stance&quot;&gt;Valorous Stance&lt;/a&gt; (&amp;quot;Destroy target creature with toughness 4 or greater.&amp;quot;) to kill it, since its toughness is still 4.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-25T00:43:16.737" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T00:43:16.737" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9246" CreationDate="2015-07-25T01:10:59.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would get at least 9 points: 3 for your production world, 4 for your windfall worlds, 2 for Alien Tech Institute itself. (Assuming all the above are in your tableau and not still in your hand.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13235" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T01:10:59.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25285" CreationDate="2015-07-25T06:52:00.637" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the Other World encounters says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pass a &lt;strong&gt;Luck (-1) check&lt;/strong&gt; to claim a monster trophy from the cup (even if it is &lt;strong&gt;Endless&lt;/strong&gt;)....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I pick randomly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T17:28:43.800" Title="If I claim a monster token from the cup, do I pick at random?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25287" CreationDate="2015-07-25T10:07:20.760" Score="5" ViewCount="520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to contract bridge, and wish to understand how it is a team game. I am playing at a low level, but it seems that it is more like two individuals that are playing for the same side, rather than an actual team game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few scenarios I have considered (and to which, is my understanding of the game)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you are the defenders, you need to work with your partner. Here I can understand the teamwork that exists, and your partner may need to rely on you to counter the declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The bidding. Despite the communication that goes on during the bidding rounds, it is generally the more aggressive player that takes the bids (at least at a low level). I apologize if this is less true at higher levels, but overall once the contract has been made, teamwork seems to cease completely.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The declarer does not require their teammate anymore, so there is no teamwork here.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides these points, I do find it a fun game but I do not understand the need to have the same partner for years if you ever want to become professional. If you are paired with someone of equal skill, you should be able to accomplish the same amount as you and a long-term partner could for years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I would like to have the team aspect of the game explained. I am aware this probably sounds like an opinion piece, but I've tried to make it as unbiased as possible. I am just very new to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11884" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:22:25.853" Title="Teamwork in bridge" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25282" CreationDate="2015-07-25T17:28:43.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I believe so. I don't think there are specific rules, but:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every other interaction with the cup is drawing randomly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other encounters with rewards like this instead say &quot;Draw a monster from the cup and take it as a monster trophy, even if it has the Endless ability.&quot; or even &quot;Draw one monster trophy at random from the cup.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were meant to be different and let you hunt through for what you want, I assume it'd explicitly say so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T17:28:43.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25303" CreationDate="2015-07-25T18:28:37.227" Score="5" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/822/carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt; last night using the expansions &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/45748/carcassonne-wheel-fortune&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wheel of Fortune&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/31784/carcassonne-abbey-mayor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&lt;/a&gt;.  A situation came up where a player had his mayor on a large unfinished city with several pennants and the wheel landed on taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When &lt;em&gt;taxes&lt;/em&gt; occurs, should the mayor be counted as multiple knights (as many as there are pennants), a single knight, or no knights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvh9g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jvh9g.png&quot; alt=&quot;Deploying Followers&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdJkg.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdJkg.png&quot; alt=&quot;The Mayor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFhAB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zFhAB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Taxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my interpretation, &quot;&lt;em&gt;when a city containing a mayor is scored&lt;/em&gt; (but at no other times, e.g. taxes) &lt;em&gt;the mayor is counted as...&lt;/em&gt;&quot; with the (but at no other times) implied would mean that the mayor has no effect during taxes and is treated as though it is not present.  However, arguably the taxes is a sort of &quot;scoring the city&quot; (though I see it more as scoring the knights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opponents interpretation, any follower (be it the wagon, mayor, big follower, or ordinary meeple) when played in a city would be considered a knight from then on until removed from the board (or in the case of the mayor as multiple knights).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We allowed the mayor to count as a number of separate knights equal to the number of pennants (banners) in order to let play resume, which caused some very high points.  At the time, there were seven banners and only the mayor present in the city in question for a total of 7 &lt;em&gt;knights&lt;/em&gt; x (7 &lt;em&gt;banners&lt;/em&gt; + 7 &lt;em&gt;knights&lt;/em&gt;) = 98 points.  The irony I suppose is that although my opponent scored massive points for the first taxes, I turned the tables on him by scoring massive number of points on the next two times taxes came up using the same ruling.  Still, 100+ points for taxes while the other wheel of fortune tiles scoring an average of 8 or so points seems absurd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T13:32:50.840" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:24:12.010" Title="Does the mayor count as multiple knights during taxes?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25284" CreationDate="2015-07-25T21:16:00.187" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interesting question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, a terminology issue. You refer to &lt;em&gt;teams&lt;/em&gt;, but then only discuss the &lt;em&gt;partnership&lt;/em&gt; of a player and his partner. Note that Duplicate Bridge is also played as a true &lt;em&gt;team&lt;/em&gt; game, with teams of 4 players playing head-to-head, with each having a partnership sitting NS at one table and EW at the other. In this format the teams often are 6 players (rarely 5) with each partnership taking turns sitting out for a session at a time. The scoring for this format is usually &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgewebs.com/westmids/IMPs%20%20MPs%202.pdf&quot;&gt;IMPS rather than Match-Points&lt;/a&gt; although &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.mit.edu/mitdlbc/www/articles/Bridge_Scoring.pdf&quot;&gt;Board-a-Match scoring&lt;/a&gt; has increased in popularity since its nadir 30 years ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take your points in reverse order, it is true that when a side is declaring there is very little for dummy to do. Many top bridge players have claimed that they use this time to deliberately zone-out, to refresh themselves mentally, but I have yet to meet one who didn't still know, after the hand if not the game, where all 52 cards were. This one aspect of the game is where the very rare expert, Zia Mahood, Pietro Forquet, and Belladonna Garozza come to mind, where one player's individual skill can sometimes impose their will on a long team game match. However these declarers are very rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Defense requires an increased degree of partnership understanding and communication, yet in truth this is very routine once one attains intermediate skill level. The style may vary between inverted or regular discards, frequent or infrequent signals, but in truth the communication channel between partners is so narrow that defence is primarily dependent on both partners being capable of strong independent analysis. Although important, this is not where the heart of a strong partnership lies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But bidding; that's another ball game. Have you ever met a married couple who have lived together so long that they not only complete each other's sentences, but they each know when to pause to let the other do so. That's what a finely tuned bridge partnership is like when bidding. Lookup &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Rodwell&quot;&gt;Eric Rodwell&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Meckstroth&quot;&gt;Jeff Meckstroth&lt;/a&gt;, the infamous &lt;em&gt;Meckwell&lt;/em&gt; who have been regular parnters for over 30 years now and frequently rated the best in the world for over half that time. Their system notes are claimed to run to several volumes of discussion that Eric Rodwell, the theorist for the pair, meticulously maintains.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bidding is a language, and while a Londoner, a Bostonian, and an Aussie all speak mutually intelligible dialects of English, there will be occasional miscues from words being misheard, and from idioms not being recognized. Similar miscues will occur in bidding from time to time in irregular partnerships. While these will occur less frequently at higher levels, they are also more significant at those levels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T06:32:57.087" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T06:32:57.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7949" CreationDate="2015-07-25T22:12:14.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been following this question for sometime now and have to post an answer because I don't have enough reputation :(. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, here are more current Estimated Values for these sets, and I've written more on my blog about &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgboosters.com/which-booster-packs-are-best-to-buy/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;how to estimate value&lt;/a&gt; against current prices. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, the estimated value will always be lower than the market going rate for a pack to account for the potential the pack has to contain a certain high-value card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like the question though and used google sheets to importhtml from TCG and calculate approximate estimated values like Kite (I also, didn't take into account that AN only had 8 cards per pack... that said, the estimates should be pretty good...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here they are, with High, Mean, and Low prices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arabian Nights   330.43  250.42  213.19&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unlimited    194.83  166.88  135.04&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Antiquities  126.84  84.57   70.37&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legends  76  46.16   36.73&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Revised  38.86   16.46   11.7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Future Sight 28.86   13.2    9.41&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alliances    25.53   11.73   8.14&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zendikar 29.97   11.36   7.2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Planeshift   22.47   10.65   7.44&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fifth Dawn   26.38   10.6    6.29&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timeshifted  24.28   9.46    5.37&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darksteel    25.95   9.07    5.62&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadowmoor   24.13   9.05    5.42&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Eventide 23.56   8.96    5.41&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Coldsnap 22.97   8.74    5.14&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Urza's Saga  23.7    8.72    5.44&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can make a copy of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1sz6rGc3yhgbhf6kVe3UOXhT0UjHiGy9uuhdWjlHcAKE/edit?usp=sharing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Google Sheet with my formulas&lt;/a&gt; that I used as well here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13238" LastActivityDate="2015-07-25T22:12:14.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25290" CreationDate="2015-07-25T22:45:05.080" Score="2" ViewCount="182" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this of the 6 basic stats&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;speed: for moving through arkham&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;sneak: for evading&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;fight: for combat and gate closing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;lore: for spell casting and gate closing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;luck: for....shrug. Encountery random stuff. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously all of these stats are tested in encounters as well, but is there any predictable way to their occurrence in tests in these encounters? For instance does the Science Building more often check Will or the Library Lore? It feels random what stat gets tested most of the time, so short of the reasons in the bulleted items, I often feel like I'm flailing just randomly picking which stat to boost during upkeep if I'm not specifically dealing with gate closing or monster encounters, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T22:32:20.600" Title="Is there any methodology or pattern to picking better stats to emphasize for location and other world encounters?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25289" CreationDate="2015-07-26T00:06:45.967" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, different locations do skew toward different skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you really want to know, you can look at something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/43768/arkham-horror-location-encounter-statistics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this cheat sheet&lt;/a&gt;. I personally think that kind of spoils the game a bit, though. It's not as bad as if you just looked through the encounter cards yourself, but it still takes out a bit of surprise and fun in playing. The one broad rule is that encounters do depend on luck a bit more often than other skills in general, since they're the only place it's really used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The kind of edge you can get from this knowledge really isn't too large, though. The most likely skill needed in an area might not be much more likely than the other skills, and some locations are probably pretty evenly balanced. Your skill focus is often substantially restricted by what you need to do to move/fight. And it's certainly possible to do quite well in the game without that little edge. So I think you might as well just play a bunch of games and learn that way!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T00:06:45.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6014" CreationDate="2015-07-26T02:48:53.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I could be wrong, but every time I won (2-3 players) I won by taking a lot of 3 or less train paths, because of how efficient they were.&#xA;I could draw 2 cards I needed, and next turn play them with no problem, and finish tickets relatively quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually go from Seattle to Chicago via Houston, avoiding Miami, (the game makes it so difficult, yet worth so much) going up to New York, and making a left turn. This can be done relatively quickly, except for San Francisco to Los Angeles, and is very connectable with everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13239" LastEditorUserId="6412" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T12:26:41.090" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T12:26:41.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2015-07-26T05:56:22.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our group uses index cards, which is pretty handy because you can just write the static stats (color, creature type, BASE P/T, etc) on the card. D6 on top of the card is usually enough for counters, and d10/20 to count a group of identical tokens if things start getting... silly...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13240" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T05:56:22.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25293" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-26T06:21:09.430" Score="1" ViewCount="499" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would restore the peace affect creatures with hexproof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Endurance&quot;&gt;Archetype of Endurance&lt;/a&gt; (all creatures you control have hexproof, your opponent cannot have hexproof). I attack and then my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Restore%20the%20Peace&quot;&gt;Restore the Peace&lt;/a&gt;, would this affect my creatures since they have hexproof?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13241" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T08:27:41.513" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:01:07.103" Title="Would Restore the Peace affect a hexproof creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:21:53.793" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25293" CreationDate="2015-07-26T08:25:43.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hexproof means that the creature with Hexproof cannot be the &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; of spells or abilities an opponent controls. Restore the Peace does not target creatures, it's a global effect, so Hexproof does not offer any protection in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T08:30:14.057" LastActivityDate="2015-07-26T08:30:14.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25295" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25307" CreationDate="2015-07-26T20:47:55.397" Score="7" ViewCount="542" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today we were playing Carcassonne with two of the mini expansions, Flying Machines and Ferries. The following situation occured:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXY3j.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXY3j.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Flying Meeple&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The yellow player is launching one of his meeple from the bottom left corner and rolled a 3. This puts him on the ferry piece. The ferry is connecting the bottom and left sides of the lake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The questions we had now, are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which of the three road pieces would be considered valid placement for the meeple?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the yellow player move the ferry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:38:14.197" Title="Carcassonne Flying Machines + Ferries" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25297" CreationDate="2015-07-26T23:20:08.477" Score="4" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some bridge combinations that most players shun, at least when possible.&#xA;One of these is the so-called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/7h69.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Moyesian&lt;/a&gt; or 4-3 trump fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that there are bidding systems that require &quot;five card majors&quot; just to avoid such Moyesian fits. But are there successful, world-class partnerships that court these, or other &quot;unpopular&quot; situations that everyone &quot;knows about&quot; but few want to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember reading that one backgammon player became a world champion by pioneering &quot;back&quot; games (which were originally unpopular). Has a similar thing happened from time to time in bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-07-26T23:29:03.190" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:33:25.950" Title="Are there partnerships that win major events by using unpopular systems?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25296" CreationDate="2015-07-26T23:53:58.033" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barry_Crane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barry Crane&lt;/a&gt; (originally &lt;a href=&quot;https://acblstory.wordpress.com/2012/02/24/acbl-bridge-beat-24-barry-cohen-wins-mckenney-trophy-with-over-600-masterpoints/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Barry Cohen, the Detroit Demon&lt;/a&gt;) dominated many aspects of North American bridge for decades playing a system of weak openings and early exits from the auction. This was the antithesis of the systems being expounded by teachers such as Culbertson and Goren, which revolved around sound openings to assist average players in making their contracts, even if they often underbid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wealthy enough to be a client and strong enough to compete against the best, Crane inspired strong feelings, pro and con, amongst the North American bridge elite; but few dared cross him because it was nearly impossible to win the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nytimes.com/1983/06/05/arts/bridge-saying-farewell-to-the-mckenney-trophy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;McKenney trophy&lt;/a&gt; without his patronage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noted most for his superb match-point play, Crane's systems revolved around opening 4-card heart suits in order to buy as many contracts as possible in 2H, but opening 1Spade required 5 cards. In consequence he was probably an even more ardent exponent of &lt;em&gt;Moysian&lt;/em&gt; fits then &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/about-acbl/hall-of-fame/members/moyse-alphonse/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alphonse (Sonny) Moyse&lt;/a&gt; was. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is still possible to find compilations of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/pdf/FrenchBarryCraneSN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crane's bidding system&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://bridgewinners.com/article/view/barry-crane-bidding-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;and ruminations&lt;/a&gt; on the web.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The post of Grant Baze's memories of Barry., on &lt;a href=&quot;http://bridgewinners.com/article/view/barry-crane-bidding-system/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;that final link&lt;/a&gt;, are priceless. One oft repeated story is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Jeff Meckstroth went one better. He played with Barry in a two session&#xA;  regional event just because he thought he should play at least once&#xA;  with “Mr. McKinney.” At the end of the event Jeff tore their&#xA;  convention card into ribbons and threw the pieces at Barry, making it&#xA;  very clear that he would never play with Barry again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is the very same Jeff Meckstroth who has had almost as much influence on the bridge world, since Crane's murder, as Crane himself did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just for you Tom, because I know you love &lt;em&gt;rules&lt;/em&gt;such as these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But back to the bidding dictums for a moment. Allegedly, among locals&#xA;  in SoCal, he[Crane] mandated “Double at match points (for penalty) in&#xA;  pass-out seat after an opening 2NT.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I rather doubt that but maybe others could shed more light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I have done quick and dirty simulations – finding about 52-55%&#xA;  conversion rate. Maybe others can chip in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Response&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Ed: I think the statement is correct, but incomplete – after&#xA;  “pass out seat”, add “4 hcp's or less”, the rationale being that&#xA;  partner holds 11+ hcp behind declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T00:03:51.540" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T00:03:51.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25299" CreationDate="2015-07-27T00:38:10.140" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the situation: my opponent has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blessed+Spirits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blessed Spirits&lt;/a&gt; in play, and he he casts a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grasp+of+the+Hieromancer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grasp of the Hieromancer&lt;/a&gt; targeting it.  I respond by casting &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398516&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fiery Impulse&lt;/a&gt;, targeting the same card.  Is the Blessed Spirits destroyed?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the answer is no, but I'm confused about the timing.  Does Blessed Spirits' ability use the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13247" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T01:05:49.783" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T01:06:32.853" Title="Can you kill a Blessed Spirits with a Fiery Impulse in response to an enchantment being cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25299" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25298" CreationDate="2015-07-27T01:06:32.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on exactly what you are responding to (and if you have Spell Mastery, I'm assuming you don't for purposes of this answer). The Spirits' ability does indeed use the stack, so if you respond to that you will destroy them, if you wait for the ability to resolve but before the enchantment spell resolves it will not destroy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability of the Blessed Spirits is what is called a triggered ability, and whenever their condition occurs they trigger and go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when they cast the Grasp is the Blessed Spirits ability triggers and goes on the stack. The stack then looks like  this:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blessed Spirits ability   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grasp of the Hieromancer targeting Blessed Spirits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you have to opportunity to respond with Fiery Impulse, if you do it will go on the stack on top of the Blessed Spirits ability. Since it is above the Blessed Spirits ability it will resolve first, dealing 2 damage to the Spirits. Since 2 damage is enough to destroy the Spirits they get sent to the graveyard as soon as State Based Actions are checked after the Impulse resolves. At this point the Blessed Spirits ability resolves, but does nothing since the Spirits are already in the graveyard, the the Grasp gets countered due to a lack of legal targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T01:06:32.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25286" CreationDate="2015-07-27T06:00:14.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mayor counts as only one follower for all purposes other than the final scoring of a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer seems to hinge on the definition of scoring, so I went and looked that up. The whole section is about scoring roads, cities and monasteries. All very specific about traditional scoring, so not very relevant to your case. Then, it ends with this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After scoring a road, a city or a monastery – &lt;strong&gt;and only then&lt;/strong&gt; – the followers used in the scoring are returned to their &#xA;  player's supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think both of you thought to do this. It's in clear contrast with what you're supposed to do when the wheel of fortune hits taxes. If taxes would count as scoring, both players would have to remove all of their knights after taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I don't think taxes count as scoring, and so the mayor does not count as a multiple of knights during taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not the mayor should count as a follower at all, is hard to ascertain by the regular rules. Fortunately, this question has been asked often enough that it's included in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://pycarc.googlecode.com/svn/trunk/AnnotatedRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;annotated rules FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (Footnote 118 on page 42):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;: What is the status of the mayor, the barn and the wagon? Are they followers or 'special figures' like the builder and&#xA;  the pig?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;: Ah… that old chestnut! The mayor is a follower, subject to the usual rules of deployment and affects the majority.&#xA;  The barn is a special figure, although it can also be counted as a follower. As far as the wagon is concerned, I'm a little uncertain,&#xA;  but I'd nevertheless count it as a follower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T07:28:59.050" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T07:28:59.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24929" CreationDate="2015-07-27T15:31:32.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The modifier is listed on the barrage table and applies to barrage combat regardless of source. It does not draw distinction between air or artillery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13251" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T15:31:32.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25304" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:18:42.007" Score="3" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner and I recently played in a Two-Headed Giant Sealed. As is the case with most multiplayer tournaments, the event was run at Regular REL. My partner has an upkeep trigger (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thopter%20Spy%20Network&quot;&gt;Thopter Spy Network&lt;/a&gt;). The following events occur sequentially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Our opponent's pass the turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I untap, draw a card, and mix it into my hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My partner says, &amp;quot;Wait! I have an upkeep trigger.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has the trigger been missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;805.2. Within each team, the player seated in the rightmost seat from that team’s perspective is the primary player. If the players on a team can’t agree on a choice, such as which creatures attack or what order triggered abilities are put on the stack, the primary player makes that choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive rule 805.2 states that if players on a team can't agree on a choice, the primary player decides. However, we didn't really disagree on anything, so I don't think 805.2 applies. I reference this rule because I have moved to the draw step, while my partner wants to remain in the upkeep step. I guess one could argue that I silently disagreed with him by drawing a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T16:22:47.413" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T16:22:47.413" Title="Missed triggers in two-headed giant" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|mtg-regular-rel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25286" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:24:12.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The annotated rules FAQ version 7.4 (and presumably for some versions prior) does answer this question directly and matches the conclusion that @freekvd did above.  The current and recent versions can be found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;from page 111 of Carcassonne Standard CAR ver. 7.4&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Taxes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every player receives points for his knights.[331]  For &lt;strong&gt;each&lt;/strong&gt; knight, the player earns 1 point for each &lt;strong&gt;pennant&lt;/strong&gt; in the city &lt;strong&gt;plus&lt;/strong&gt; 1 point for &lt;strong&gt;each&lt;/strong&gt; of his knights in the city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[331] Any follower that is placed in a city, including the mayor or wagon, is considered to be a knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That particular rule is a reiteration of one that appears on page 60:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;from page 60 of Carcassonne Standard CAR ver. 7.4&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[154] Any follower, including the mayor, that is placed in a city is considered to be a knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally page 61:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;from page 61 of Carcassonne Standard CAR ver. 7.4&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The strength of the mayor is the same as the number of pennants in the city.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rules (among others) together imply in particular that the wording of the original rules I cited in my question should instead read &amp;quot;The mayor &lt;strong&gt;has the strength&lt;/strong&gt; of a number of followers...&amp;quot; as opposed to &amp;quot;The mayor &lt;strong&gt;is counted as&lt;/strong&gt; a number of followers...&amp;quot; in order to avoid confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When scoring taxes, since a mayor is counted as &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; knight (singular), in the situation described in the original question (a mayor alone in an incomplete city with seven banners), the player will score 8 points for taxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T16:24:12.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25302" CreationDate="2015-07-27T16:25:15.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the primary player has moved forward to the draw step, then the trigger was missed. If the secondary player is the one that drew a card, then that player has drawn extra cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, at regular REL, you should call a judge, explain what happened, and allow the judge to decide whether the trigger was missed or whether the game should be rolled back. If the game is rolled back, you would have to put a random card from your hand on top of your library, then do your upkeep stuff, and then continue as normal with a reminder to play more carefully. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the identity of the card(s) were known to all players, return them to their proper location. Otherwise, determine how many extra cards have been drawn, take that many cards at random from the player’s hand and place them on top of the library. Don't shuffle the library after doing this!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, play penalties at regular REL are basically nonexistent, and mistakes should be fixed more often than punished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12202" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T21:45:59.093" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:45:59.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25306" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:24:21.960" Score="3" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a Beetle surrounded on 5 sides, thus there is a space in the ring around it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the Beetle move from the centre of this arrangement, into the space?  A normal 'planar' move is prevented under these circumstances but a Beetle can move vertically.  It could climb on to a neighbour then down into the space in two moves; but can it do the move up-and-down into the space in one move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:31:02.967" Title="In Hive, can a beetle go up/down into an empty space?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25305" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:31:02.967" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a beetle is not climbing up onto or down off of a piece, it moves exactly like a Queen Bee. A beetle cannot move into a space it cannot physically slide into.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Hive_FAQ#toc10&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Hive_FAQ#toc10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T17:31:02.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25295" CreationDate="2015-07-27T17:40:48.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the first half of the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which of the three road pieces would be considered valid placements for the meeple?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;cited from the Complete Annotated Rules ver 7.4 pages 142-143 available &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, the player may place a follower as a flier on a flying machine symbol to get the follower in the game.[378][379]  The flying machine symbol has an arrow showing the direction (horizontally, vertically, or diagonally) in which the follower will fly.  Now the player rolls the die.  The die result is the distance that the follower will fly (1 to 3 tiles in a straight line).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, the follower &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be placed on the resulting landscape tile representing the end of the flight.  The active player can choose which feature to place the follower on.  However, the following rules must be followed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The follower must only be deployed to an &lt;strong&gt;unfinished&lt;/strong&gt;[380] structure (road, city, or cloister). [381][382][383][384]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The follower may be placed on a feature that is unoccupied[385] or already &lt;strong&gt;occupied&lt;/strong&gt; (either by one's own follower or an opposing follower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The follower &lt;strong&gt;may not be placed on a field segment&lt;/strong&gt;, even if there is not a farmer on the field already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The follower may not be placed in a location where &lt;strong&gt;no landscape tile&lt;/strong&gt; is located.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;cited from the Complete Annotated Rules ver 7.4 page 136&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ferry connects the ends of the road to form a continuous road.  A road segment without a ferry on a lake is closed at this end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to your picture, at the time the road from the lake to the city is considered to be complete at the time and as such the flier could not be placed there.  The remaining two segments which each have the ferry attached are legal locations to put the flier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;It is worth mentioning that if the die roll had instead been a 1 or a 2, that there would be no legal placement and the follower returned to your supply.  As it is pictured, I would have instead simply occupied the road instead of using the flying machine or I would have tried placing the flying machine somewhere else.&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the yellow player move the ferry?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;cited from the Complete Annotated Rules ver 7.4 page 137&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player places his landscape tile and extends a road that includes a ferry,[364] the player &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; move the ferry, but he or she is not required to do so.  The ferry must always connect 2 road ends.  The player may move the ferry such that it no longer connects to the road that has just been extended.  If there are two ferries on the road that was just extended, the player may only move the first ferry in the road - the ferry that is closest to the tile that was just placed.[365]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It continues to read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence of actions relating to lakes and ferries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place (lake) tile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place follower&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Place ferry (if new lake tile placed)[366]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move ferries on other lakes (if placed tile extends a ferry road)[367]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Score features (if needed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[364] The road must include a wooden ferry to allow movement of that ferry in this situation.  Thus if adding onto a road that ends at a lake &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; the wooden ferry connect, the ferry &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; be moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[366] The RGG version of the rules incorrectly adds &amp;quot;if he placed a follower on the road&amp;quot; here, even though there is no such stipulation in the body of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[367] The RGG version of the rules incorrectly adds the requirement &amp;quot;if he placed a follower on the road&amp;quot; here, even though there is no such stipulation in the body of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is my understanding then that the only reason why you will ever move a ferrry is because of the road connected to the ferry extending through the addition of a landscape tile that connects to the road.  As the tile placed in the turn in question did not in fact extend the road connected to the lake, the ferry may not be moved.  Nowhere does it mention that having placed a follower on the road (but not extending the road) will allow the ferry to be moved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10221" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:38:14.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25185" CreationDate="2015-07-27T20:45:15.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can look at it another way.  If you did not lose, then you must have won.  What is one way to lose? You lose if you cannot take two cards &lt;em&gt;at the end of your turn&lt;/em&gt;, so you have four actions to win.  From 2013 edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game ends...if a player cannot draw 2 Player cards after doing his&#xA;  action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6505" LastEditorUserId="6505" LastEditDate="2015-07-27T21:42:06.703" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T21:42:06.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25289" CreationDate="2015-07-27T22:32:20.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I feel that the location icons (p24 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;) can give some hints to what skills you need.  Specifically stamina, sanity and spells.  I also think the game did a good job of making the areas &lt;em&gt;generally&lt;/em&gt; (but not altogether) lean to logically what you might encounter in them.  Like lore for the Spell shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am spoiler sensitive so I have no proof, akin to the same reason I did not review the cheatsheet linked in @Jefromi's answer.  Perhaps it contradicts what I have said.&#xA;But 2 cents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2015-07-27T22:32:20.600" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T01:22:24.473" Score="4" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's already known that Cribbage can be played by blind people by using Braille-cards, but what I need to know is whether there is a database for Braille-players to get together in their local areas.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Blind-Foundation here in Hawaii can not find any other blind-cribbage players, so I post here to hopefully find a blind-cribbage partner here in Honolulu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13263" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T04:10:04.930" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T15:13:19.873" Title="Is there a way for Braille-Cribbage players to find each other?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T02:42:51.607" Score="5" ViewCount="1932" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts a creature. During my turn, I attack and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporary%20Insanity&quot;&gt;Temporary Insanity&lt;/a&gt; on the creature and want to force it to block my attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent claims that since I control the creature and it is my turn, I cannot force the creature to block, since when I am attacking, only the other player gets to designate blockers. That does not make a lot of sense to me, since it seems that the entire point of the card is to put the creature in a disadvantageous position (such as force it to block a creature you know will kill it), but we wanted to find out how this actually works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13264" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T03:48:17.597" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T03:48:17.597" Title="Can I steal a creature then block my own attack with it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25311" CreationDate="2015-07-28T03:06:10.453" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent was correct. Only creatures controlled by the defending player may be declared as blockers. &amp;quot;Control&amp;quot; doesn't just mean &amp;quot;you decide what it does&amp;quot;, it means you control it just like all your other creatures. It's on your side of the battlefield now (temporarily).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are still an awful lot of nasty things you can do with a card like Temporary Insanity. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When your opponent attacks &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;, you can steal one of their creatures and use it to block another of their creatures. (Temporary Insanity is an instant!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can steal your opponent's creature and use it to attack them. (Even better if they have to block it and/or kill it to stay alive!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can steal your opponent's creature and sacrifice it, if you have a way to do so (for example if you have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Butcher%20of%20the%20Horde&quot;&gt;Butcher of the Horde&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And plenty of other things - those are just among the most common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way you can force your opponent's creatures to block your attack is with cards that explicitly affect how blocking works. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lure&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt; forces your opponent's creatures to block a specific one of yours. Or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brutal%20Hordechief&quot;&gt;Brutal Hordechief&lt;/a&gt; will let you entirely choose how blocks happen!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T03:06:10.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25314" CreationDate="2015-07-28T03:45:37.643" Score="0" ViewCount="2453" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why can't we use two dices at different positions that have the same letters to make a word?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-DEED --&gt; INVALID&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-NEON --&gt; INVALID&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why..?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13266" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T04:31:10.457" Title="Boggle Rules - Two same letters to make a word" Tags="|boggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25313" CreationDate="2015-07-28T04:31:10.457" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can find nothing in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/boggle.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;, nor in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt;, that disallows using the same letter on different cubes. In fact, the Wikipedia article names some of the longest possible Boggle words and they include multiples of the same letter which would be impossible if that were the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is definitely true that you cannot use the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; cube more than once in a given word, nor can you spell the same word twice using different cubes. Where did you learn this rule - is it an official online implementation, or from someone telling you the rules, or elsewhere? It's likely that someone misinterpreted the rules, or was playing some kind of variant or house rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T04:31:10.457" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25295" CreationDate="2015-07-28T08:40:10.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I understand @JMoravitz his interpretation (and fully agree on the first part), I think it would be possible to see the placement of a follower onto the lake tile as part of this sequence of actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The sequence of actions relating to lakes and ferries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place (lake) tile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place follower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Place ferry (if new lake tile placed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Move ferries on other lakes (if placed tile extends a ferry road)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Score features (if needed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where you basically start at step 2, because step 1 was done by someone else. If that is the case, you could still move(/place) the ferry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason I think this might be a valid interpretation, is because of the ambiguous wording &quot;sequence of actions relating to lakes and ferries&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, the excessive wording in the annotated rules seem to overfit for known scenarios and therefore force unknown scenarios into directions that might not have been intentional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T08:40:10.133" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25177" CreationDate="2015-07-28T09:50:47.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamesmaker.com/customized/custom-gameboard.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Getting your own made, could work.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would likely need a high quality image. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other potential issue would be the legality of it, but if they/you already own the map it could be &lt;a href=&quot;http://copyrightuser.org/topics/private-copying/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;legal in the UK and the EU&lt;/a&gt; (I am not a lawyer, and cannot give advice on this issue and, besides, I don't know which country's laws are most relevant to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T09:50:47.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25060" CreationDate="2015-07-28T12:54:59.850" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;This particular question will have 2 different answers depending of the time period &amp;amp; the rule books that you are using throughout the evolution of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Parker Brothers/Hasbro rule books of 1959, 1963, 1975, 1980, 1993, 1999 &amp;amp; 2016 you will find the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If during your turn you eliminate an opponent by defeating their last soldier on the map, the eliminated player is out of the game &amp;amp; you win any territory cards that player has collected.  &lt;strong&gt;If winning them gives you 6 or more cards&lt;/strong&gt;, you must immediately trade in enough sets to reduce your hand to 4 or fewer cards.  This is called a mid-turn trade-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Parker Brothers/Hasbro rule books of 2003 you will find the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If during your turn you eliminate an opponent by defeating their last soldier on the map, the eliminated player is out of the game &amp;amp; you win any territory cards that player has collected.  &lt;strong&gt;If winning them gives you 5 or more cards&lt;/strong&gt;, you must immediately trade in enough sets to reduce your hand to 4 or fewer cards.  This is called a mid-turn trade-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 2003 &amp;amp; prior to 2008 it is impossible to have 6 cards in your card hand at the beginning of your next turn as you must trade them in until you have 4 or less cards.  Your earning another card at the end of your turn can only bring your card hand to a maximum of 5 cards at the beginning of your next turn.  There is no confusion since 2003.  In 2008 Parker Brothers/Hasbro moved onto a Star method of trading in cards rather then the 3 image method. In the Star method of trading in cards you can trade at any time during your turn always &amp;amp; you can hold onto more then 5 cards.  In 2016 Hasbro returned the mid-turn card trade-in to 6 or more cards so the confusion has returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pre 2003 &amp;amp; as of 2016, it is possible to eliminate an opponent, get their cards bringing your card hand to five &amp;amp; then ending your turn earning your sixth card.  At the beginning of your next turn you were forced to trade in at least one set.  If you wished &amp;amp; were able to do so, you could trade in 2 sets of cards at the beginning of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way to end up with 6 cards under any set of rules while using the 3 image method is by eliminating an opponent &amp;amp; earning their cards.  Therefore your friend wishing to wait until he had 6 cards to trade in a set could not do so under any set of rules because if you have 5 or 6 cards at the beginning of your turn you must trade in at least one set.  If he had 5 cards at the beginning of his turn he had to trade them in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastEditorUserId="12113" LastEditDate="2017-04-06T19:45:17.383" LastActivityDate="2017-04-06T19:45:17.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25319" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:30:38.423" Score="5" ViewCount="1272" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I exile a manifested permanent like an enchantment or creature with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Roon%20of%20the%20Hidden%20Realm&quot;&gt;Roon of the Hidden Realm&lt;/a&gt;, it comes back face up (from what I understand). What happens if I exile and return an instant, sorcery or aura enchantment? Do their effects take place on the end of my turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13260" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T15:08:04.360" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T03:49:51.137" Title="Blinking face down Auras and Non-Permanents" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25318" CreationDate="2015-07-28T14:56:02.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instants and sorceries would stay in the zone they're currently in, in your case in Exile. They do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;304.4. Instants can’t enter the battlefield. If an instant would enter the battlefield, it remains in its previous zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;307.4. Sorceries can’t enter the battlefield. If a sorcery would enter the battlefield, it remains in its previous zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an Aura enters the battlefield other than by resolving, you can choose a legal object or player for it to enchant. Note that this does not target the chosen object. If you can't because there are no legal objects to enchant, it remains in the zone it came from; in your case, in Exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4f If an Aura is entering the battlefield under a player’s control by any means other than by resolving as an Aura spell, and the effect putting it onto the battlefield doesn’t specify the object or player the Aura will enchant, that player chooses what it will enchant as the Aura enters the battlefield. The player must choose a legal object or player according to the Aura’s enchant ability and any other applicable effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4g If an Aura is entering the battlefield and there is no legal object or player for it to enchant, the Aura remains in its current zone, unless that zone is the stack. In that case, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard instead of entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T03:49:51.137" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25293" CreationDate="2015-07-28T15:01:07.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Hackworth said,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Restore%20the%20Peace&quot;&gt;Restore the Peace&lt;/a&gt; will effect creatures with hexproof. Hexproof creatures are protected from spells that &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; them, but aren't protected from spells that effect the entire battlefield (even those with conditionals).&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;A card like Restore the Peace effects &lt;strong&gt;each&lt;/strong&gt; creature that dealt damage, and would therefore effect hexproof creatures because it does not target them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13260" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T15:01:07.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25321" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25323" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:18:21.477" Score="6" ViewCount="2240" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some reserved cards in Splendor and 15 prestige points at the end of my turn. Is this the final round of the game, or do I have to buy all my reserved cards to end the game? Do reserved cards have some &quot;negative&quot; points assigned to them for points counting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13269" LastActivityDate="2019-09-03T22:26:14.887" Title="Do reserved cards influence the end of the game?" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25326" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:26:33.460" Score="2" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player has all the cards to be visited by one noble, but at the end of their turn they forgot about the noble tile. If another player in their turn also have all the cards for this noble who gets the noble tile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13269" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:52:48.737" Title="What if a player forgot to take the noble tile?" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25321" CreationDate="2015-07-28T16:34:54.993" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reserved cards have no effect on the end game trigger, and do not count as negative points. The rules just say that &quot;When a player reaches 15 prestige points, complete the current round so that each player has played the same number of turns. The player who then has the highest number of prestige points is declared the winner&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7544" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T16:34:54.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25296" CreationDate="2015-07-28T18:33:25.950" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It happens all the time. I play standard methods with some partners and an unpopular one (Kaplan-Sheinwold, featuring a 12-14 1NT opener) with others. All my national and international successes have come playing KS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several possible reasons for this. Some proponents of unpopular systems would like us to believe that the system is inherently superior, but I don't think that's sustainable. Bridge players are rational, and if a system were truly superior it would likely be more popular, especially long term. Another possibility is that I'm more comfortable playing my preferred methods, and I play better accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a third reason that would apply at any level, especially at matchpoints. An unpopular system will increase the variance of a partnership's scores. If one wants to win more often then it's better to have a mix of 60% and 40% games rather than consistently score 50% or so. In fact a random 60/40 mix would win more often than a consistent 55%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T18:33:25.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25322" CreationDate="2015-07-28T19:52:48.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking a noble is not optional, so the player who actually earned it first should get the noble as soon as it's discovered that he should have gotten it. By continuing to the next player without giving the noble to the person who earned it, an illegal mistake has been made, and if an illegal mistake can be easily fixed, then it should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It is impossible to refuse the visit from a noble, which is not considered to be an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T19:52:48.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25327" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25329" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:52:16.820" Score="2" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chief%20of%20the%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Chief of the Foundry&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other artifact creatures you control get +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were to cast a 1/1 Artifact Creature it would enter the battlefield as a 2/2 due to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chief%20of%20the%20Foundry&quot;&gt;Chief of the Foundry&lt;/a&gt;'s continuous effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I correct that continuous effects do not normally apply to cards in your hand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ex: I believe that in my hand that same Artifact Creature would be considered to be a 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What would its power and toughness be on the stack?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ex: In response my opponent casts an instant that says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counter target creature spell with power 1 or less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the Artifact Creature be a legal target for that counter spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the Artifact Creature card be affected in other zones? (Graveyard, Library, Exile, etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T05:01:26.160" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T05:01:26.160" Title="How do continuous effects interact with the stack, your hand, and other zones?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25327" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:59:10.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Effects like the one in your post refer only to &lt;strong&gt;permanents on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 109.2&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other cases (when the spell or ability &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; use one of the mentioned words) can affect other zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T20:59:10.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25327" CreationDate="2015-07-28T20:59:24.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature card would have 1 power and 1 toughness in all zones other than the battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;609.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Effects apply only to permanents unless the instruction’s text states otherwise or they clearly can apply only to objects in one or more other zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things that can change a creature card's power/toughness off of the battlefield are Characteristic-Defining Abilities, like what &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;208.2a&lt;/strong&gt; The card may have a characteristic-defining ability that sets its power and/or toughness according to some stated condition. ... This ability functions everywhere, even outside the game. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-28T22:06:08.520" LastActivityDate="2015-07-28T22:06:08.520" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-28T21:06:15.453" Score="24" ViewCount="2640" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I have recently discovered the Big Money strategy in Dominion, and it's killing the game for us. We're not very competitive, so we don't want to spend a lot of time and effort trying to play even better than Big Money (as the answers to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/681/how-can-i-beat-big-money-in-dominion&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; propose). But Big Money is so easy that it's hard to not just play it, and then we lose all the fun of the kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any house rules we could add to simply keep us from being able to play Big Money, so that we can go back to casual games with plenty of kingdom card excitement? I know that if we really wanted to we could learn to play better than Big Money, but the games wouldn't be as fun and easygoing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also have almost all the Dominion expansions so we can use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13273" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2019-11-10T06:08:14.107" Title="How can we avoid big money in casual games?" Tags="|dominion|house-rules|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25330" CreationDate="2015-07-29T07:47:35.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest way to modify the game to avoid big money is to remove the money! If you remove Gold from the game, then you will need to use Kingdom cards in order to get enough Silvers in your hand at once, in order to afford the Provinces. If you remove Silver from the game, then you will need to use Kingdom cards in order to get enough Coppers in your hand at once, in order to afford the Gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remove both Silver and Gold, then you need lots of Kingdom cards to get enough Copper in your hand at once. Although that might be a bit extreme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T07:47:35.267" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25330" CreationDate="2015-07-29T08:59:03.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option instead of removing Silver and Gold entirely is just to limit the number in each pile. For example, only have 4 Golds and 8 Silvers in the game. Of course, that really ruins cards that specifically gain Gold or Silver, so maybe you just want to limit the number you can &lt;em&gt;buy&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think a better alternative might be to play using powerful cards like Wharf, Mountebank, Goons, Minion, Chapel, Remake, or Ambassador. Some of these cards aren't too tough to get the hang of - with the exception of Chapel and Remake, you basically just want to play as many as you can as often as you can (you'll need some kind of Village as well, usually). A big money player simply won't be able to stand up to these power cards, especially if going up against the attacks. This way, you're not changing the rules of the game, and it will get you used to being able to identify strategies that will beat big money. Big money is rarely the best strategy on the board, you just need to find something faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A common mistake is to buy too &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; action cards. It's great to play a bunch of Wharves and draw your whole deck every turn, but unless you have some cash to spend at the end of it, it's really not worth anything. Some strategies augment big money (like including a Smithy or two for draw), while some completely replace it (like a Minion deck that wants 10 Minions 0 treasure cards). Whenever you buy an action, you should think about if you'll be able to play it (do you have enough actions), and if so, how will it improve your economy. Buying actions you can't play is one of the worst things you can do, and buying actions that won't help you (more villages when you aren't using all your actions anyway) is also a waste of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="12631" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T09:08:35.960" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T09:08:35.960" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25330" CreationDate="2015-07-29T11:46:41.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you shouldn't limit the possible actions by removing the money, but you could try to somehow &lt;strong&gt;devalue money cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to do this would be to &lt;strong&gt;give money cards a negative victory point value&lt;/strong&gt;, like copper -1, silver -3, gold -6 victory points. You would both start the game with -7 victory points obviously, but it doesn't really matter. For a weaker effect, -1 point for silver and -2 points for gold could be enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way would be to &lt;strong&gt;increase the costs&lt;/strong&gt; to 4 for a silver and 8 for a gold. As a side effect, this would strengthen cards that provide free silver/gold cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both methods require a fair amount of balancing, but should make BM strategy worse instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13249" LastEditorUserId="13249" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T09:38:29.010" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T09:38:29.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25353" CreationDate="2015-07-29T12:00:05.723" Score="5" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game I played, the following &quot;Joseki&quot; occurred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played the low keima against the 3-4-point, and Black responded with a shoulder hit. This move is not in the book by Takao Shinji.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game I attached under the 3-4 stone and created a living corner group, but Black's influence was tremendous. What should White do in this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B&#xA;$$ ---------------------&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |..............1...|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |...............2..|&#xA;$$ |..............3...|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:37:50.533" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:37:50.533" Title="Trick Joseki? Shoulder hit after keima to 3-4-stone" Tags="|go|joseki|joseki-deviation|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25335" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-07-29T12:02:42.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A trick move is a move in Go that can be refuted, but creates lots of complications and traps a weaker player may not see---resulting in an exploit for the attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T04:23:40.583" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T04:23:40.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25336" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-07-29T12:02:42.603" Score="0" Body="A move in Go that is not really working, but creates complications and traps for weaker players." OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T04:23:30.803" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T04:23:30.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25330" CreationDate="2015-07-29T12:23:31.110" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;For my suggestion of a house rule to use, please see the section of this answer titled &quot;Embargo Counters&quot;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand correctly, you were learning the game naturally by playing it - it's just that at the current stage of learning it you have got to, it isn't very interesting, which makes it harder than it has been to carry on learning it simply by playing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it may be that all you need is to see, or be shown the strategies that are more powerful than Big Money in a natural way, so that you can have fun exploring them, rather than feeling forced into big money all the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of that I would draw your attention to this list; &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/openings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://councilroom.com/openings&lt;/a&gt;. This is a compiled list comparing how good the first two opening moves are. Silver / Silver (so buying silver with your first and second purchase) is only rated as a +1 - there are 962 better opening moves. The best move involving silver &lt;em&gt;at all&lt;/em&gt; is rated as a +4, with 86 possible openings rated as being better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly the &lt;a href=&quot;http://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net/dominioncg/images/f/f5/Thief.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20100210170228&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Thief&lt;/a&gt; isn't especially powerful, and wont show up highly on the list above, but does actively and obviously combat BM. With no moat or other defence cards in play BM could look a lot less attractive with a Thief available, particularly if there are some action cards that give money, like festival and market out as an alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My suggestions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could intentionally play a few games with cards specifically from the top of &lt;a href=&quot;http://councilroom.com/openings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this list&lt;/a&gt; (same as linked above), and set a house rule like those suggested in Jefromi's answer, my suggestion involving embargo counters at the end of this answer,  or those in other answers, to force you to experiment with these strategies, while still enjoying the game. You should find yourself exploring ways that beat BM anyway. I suggest you employ the lightest touch home rule you can find that does the job in pushing you both away from BM.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't need to always play with any particular cards, or with house rules, but seeing and playing a deck built around the cards at the top of this list should help show most obviously and quickly that BM isn't the best strategy. And hopefully do so in an enjoyable way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Play with others&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having a few games playing with other people - who know the game better than you do. You will hopefully quickly see a wider variety of strategies, without having to put effort into learning them. It might help to see a strategy like Chapel being played for example - it is one of the most powerful cards in the game, as you can see from it's presence in a fair number of the best openings in the list linked above, though you never want more than one, and it's power is not immediately obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Prosperity&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the top answer here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/681/how-can-i-beat-big-money-in-dominion?rq=1&quot;&gt;How can I beat &amp;quot;Big Money&amp;quot; in Dominion?&lt;/a&gt; suggests counter intuitively that including cards from Prosperity advantages Kingdom Card strategies, because it slows the game down. - I realise that question isn't the question you are asking, but thought it'd be worth pointing out as a potentially subtle way to further disadvantage big money. That said, it probably wouldn't be enough on its own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Embargo Counters&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might work to put a small number of &lt;a href=&quot;https://dominionstrategy.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/embargo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;embargo&lt;/a&gt; counters on each coin denomination at the beginning of the game, so that whenever a player buys one, they gain that many curses. This house rule has the advantages that it should make BM less attractive while not preventing certain other kingdom cards from working, it uses a game mechanic and it doesn't require constantly remembering that you aren't using the cards as printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of this home rule is that it could be too heavy handed, particularly at the start of the game (especially with certain setups; for example one that manages to combine no ability to trash curses with no alternative, low cost sources of purchasing power).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:25:41.580" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25339" CreationDate="2015-07-29T12:24:33.557" Score="6" ViewCount="1590" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152556&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heritage Druid&lt;/a&gt; lets you tap three elves you control to add GGG to your mana pool. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382377&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; counters activated or triggered abilities. My question is...  if I use Heritage Druid to tap three elves and then that ability is countered are the elves still tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T13:56:31.313" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T13:56:31.313" Title="Can I Stifle Heritage Druid's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25338" CreationDate="2015-07-29T12:41:15.430" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot Stifle Heritage Druid's ability since it is what is called a mana ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.1a&lt;/strong&gt; An activated ability is a mana ability if it meets all of the following criteria: it doesn’t have a target, it could put mana into a player’s mana pool when it resolves, and it’s not a loyalty ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.3b&lt;/strong&gt; An activated mana ability doesn’t go on the stack, so it can’t be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead of the Heritage Druid's ability if your opponent was trying to Stifle &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Imperious%20Perfect&quot;&gt;Imperious Perfect&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability your Perfect and lets say the Forest you tapped for the {G} would remain tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5a&lt;/strong&gt; To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5b&lt;/strong&gt; The player who cast a countered spell or activated a countered ability doesn’t get a “refund” of any costs that were paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T12:41:15.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25330" CreationDate="2015-07-29T16:35:07.753" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the best house rules here are going to be the ones which don't actually change mechanics of the game, and which encourage or at least allow you to play well, i.e. ones that are consistent with the better than big money strategies with most sets of kingdom cards. That way as you continue to get better at the game under your house rules, everything will still translate back to the normal game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means you don't want anything like modifying costs, gaining curses, removing money entirely from the supply, or any really drastic limits on what you can and can't buy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd probably start simple, just requiring buying a decent number of kingdom cards. After some thought, my best initial guess is: require one of your first two buys to be a kingdom cards, then for the rest of the game allow buying basic treasure cards at most two turns in a row - once you've done that, you need to buy a kingdom card or victory card. (If that turns out too restrictive, you can make it three turns.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you might need a physical reminder for this, but that's pretty easy: buy a treasure, take a token. If you have two tokens, you can't buy treasure. If you buy something else, get rid of your tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are very few setups where it's actually correct to buy two silvers on the first two turns, so that rule's definitely good. The second part should get you pretty far in the right direction, at least. It's not exactly ideal, since late-game you might sometimes get stuck with 3 money and no good choices, but it's probably a good starting place and easy to keep track of. And since you can reset your counter by buying a kingdom card even before you're required to, it'll encourage you to make smart buys when you have 4 or 5 money instead of defaulting to silver. Note also that the requirement prevents you from buying too much treasure, rather than forcing you to buy kingdom cards, so if you're doing extremely well and just buying provinces every turn, it won't stop you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I considered...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I initially suggested a minimum number of kingdom card buys over the course of the game. That might still be a good thing to try, but I think it's a little awkward because some kingdom card setups will make that much less meaningful of a restriction than others. You might also have issues with reaching the end of the game when only one player has bought enough kingdom cards - kind of awkward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limiting the number of silvers and golds appears promising on the surface, but I think it'll quickly lead to you basically playing big money for the first half of the game, buying silver and gold whenever possible to make sure you get it before it runs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do like some of the suggestions from other answers like embargo counters on silver/gold, but I think the issue is that they actually change the game. So while they might accomplish the goal of discouraging buying only treasure, you're going to be learning to play a slightly different game, and when you go back to normal rules, it'll be a lot harder to adjust. That doesn't mean they're bad, just that they might not be as helpful in the long run for getting you to avoid big money without needing house rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have essentially the same issue with anything to do with always using specific kingdom cards. Sure, they might discourage big money, but you're only going to be learning to play the game with those cards, not how to find a good strategy with other cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T00:03:54.097" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T00:03:54.097" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25346" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:19:24.217" Score="2" ViewCount="3061" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=It%20That%20Betrays&quot;&gt;It That Betrays&lt;/a&gt;' triggered ability work in a multiplayer game, if two of us controls a It That Betrays, and a third player sacrifices a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T18:45:33.597" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:36:32.513" Title="It That Betrays in a multiplayer game" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25342" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25343" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:19:30.983" Score="1" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast and Discard this spell to pass one Combat check. You must roll successes equal to the monster's toughness to cast this spell. This spell doesn't work on Ancient Ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I fail to cast this spell, do I still get to make the normal combat check with my fight skill level as a second attempt to pass the combat check, or is this done in place of the fight skill level check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:43:31.967" Title="Can I use Bind Monster in addition to the combat check?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25342" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:27:51.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you fail to cast a spell, none of its effects happen. So you're left exactly where you started: you have a combat check to make. Of course, Bind Monster is two-handed, so... you won't have any weapons and may not fare too well in the check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: combat checks are a special kind of fight check; this is a combat check, not just a fight check.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T19:43:31.967" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:43:31.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25344" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25351" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:34:16.050" Score="0" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast and exhaust to gain +9 to Combat checks until the end of this combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the spell last until the end of combat with the current monster, or the end of combat for this turn, i.e. when I have 3 monsters on my street location and am fighting them. The wording seems to imply the end of the single current monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:51:03.023" Title="Does the Dread Curse of Azathoth spell stay active for multiple monsters?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25345" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25341" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:36:29.733" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Triggers get put on the stack in AP/NAP player order.  So lets say players A and B both control an It That Betrays.  It's A's turn and attacks player C.  C sacrifices a nontoken creature to annihilator.  Since A is the active player, they get to put their It That Betrays trigger on the stack first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;(Top)&#xA;A's ITB trigger&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the next not active player with triggers get's to put their triggered abilities on (for this, let's say it is B).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;(Top)&#xA;B's ITB trigger&#xA;A's ITB trigger&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the next NAP goes (C).  In this case we will assume he has nothing to do.  Then if everyone passes priority, the stack starts resolving.  Since B's trigger is on top, it resolves and he gets C's creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Stack:&#xA;(Top)&#xA;A's ITB trigger&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming everyone passes priority, A's trigger resolves.  But now there is no creature card to return to the battlefield, so it does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T18:36:29.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25341" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:37:41.683" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability is a triggered ability, so they both trigger when the third player sacrifices a creature. Whichever one is on top of the stack resolves first, and puts the creature into play under that player's control. Then the other one resolves, but can't find the creature card in the graveyard, so it does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It That Betrays' ability is a leaves-the-battlefield triggered ability. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rule regarding those abilities&lt;/a&gt;, 603.6c says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone, or when a phased-in permanent leaves the game because its owner leaves the game. These are written as, but aren't limited to, &amp;quot;When [this object] leaves the battlefield, ...&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, ...&amp;quot; &lt;strong&gt;An ability that attempts to do something to the card that left the battlefield checks for it only in the first zone that it went to&lt;/strong&gt;. An ability that triggers when a card is put into a certain zone &amp;quot;from anywhere&amp;quot; is never treated as a leaves-the-battlefield ability, even if an object is put into that zone from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the first ability that resolves moves the creature out of the graveyard onto the battlefield, the second ability that resolves can't find the creature in the graveyard, so it doesn't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order in which the abilities go on the stack depends on APNAP order. This is what the Comprehensive Rules have to say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3b&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, &lt;strong&gt;each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses&lt;/strong&gt;. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_Golden_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player's left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the &amp;quot;Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order&amp;quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, which player gets the creature depends on whose turn it is. If we call the players with It That Betrays A and B, and the other player C, and say that A, B, C is the turn order, then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's Player A's turn, A's ability goes on the stack, followed by B's. This means that B's ability resolves first, so B gets the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's Player B's turn, B's ability goes on the stack, followed by A's. This means that A's ability resolves first, so A gets the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it's Player C's turn, A's ability goes on the stack, followed by B's. This means that B's ability resolves first, so B gets the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:36:32.513" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25348" CreationDate="2015-07-29T18:43:40.677" Score="0" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Flesh Ward spell says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any Phase&lt;/strong&gt;: Cast and exhaust to ignore all Stamina loss being dealt to you from one source. Discard this spell if the Ancient One awakens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a 'source' considered a physical entity or more so considered an action or event from some entity, i.e. can I use this to prevent stamina loss from a specific monster through several attacks received, eventually evade it (if say I simply had no capacity to have enough successes to kill it), then next turn still avoid stamina loss from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-07-29T19:55:53.740" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:55:53.740" Title="Does Flesh Ward prevent Stamina loss from one source multiple times?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25347" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:05:05.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 7 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: When exactly can Flesh Ward be cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: When you are told to lose 1 or more points of Stamina,&#xA;you may cast Flesh Ward to prevent that loss. For instance, this can work on the Stamina from a single failed Combat check. This does not make the investigator immune to fur- ther harm from that source, it only prevents it one time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer appears to be that 'one source' implies one singular event, like a single attack from a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:05:05.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25334" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:26:48.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?KogosJosekiDictionary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Kogo&amp;#39;s Joseki Dictionary&quot;&gt;Kogo's Joseki Dictionary&lt;/a&gt;. It has several variations for this move - too many to show them here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:26:48.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25350" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25352" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:29:03.160" Score="3" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is played with french cards (4 colors: ace, 2 - 10, Jack, Queen, King; jokers). You need at least 2 players, but you can have more. A game of Kabou has arbitrary many rounds. In each round, each player gets an integer amount of points (which might be negative). The less points, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;One round&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player gets 4 cards (hidden) in front of him. The order may not be switched. There is a order among players in which they get to play their turns. Each turn consists of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(a) Drawing a card or (b) taking the top most card of the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you drew a card, you may either (a) play it (put it open on the stack) or (b) exchange it with one of the cards in front of you.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you exchange it, you put the exchanged card open on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you play it some effect happens, depending on the card (see below)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the card is put on the stack, the turn of one player ends and the next begins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every situation, players may put a card they know (from the ones lying in front of all players) on the stack, if the value (ace, 2-10, jack,queen king, joker) is the same. If they put it on the stack from another players cards, they can give that player one of their cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player thinks he is in a good situation, he can say &quot;Kabou&quot; right before he does anything in his turn. He skips his turn, the game goes on until he would get his turn again. Other players may not exchange cards from him, but besides that the turns are just normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Card effects&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7, 8: take a look at one of your cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9, 10: take a look at another players cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack, Queen: Exchange 1 card from another player with 1 of your cards. Don't look at any of them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;heart king: Take a look at one card of another player. Then decide if you want to exchange that card with one of your cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Card values&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;higher is worse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;joker: -1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;black king: 0&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ace: 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 - 10: Card value (2 - 10)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jack: 11&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Queen: 12&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;red king: 13&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T22:03:17.180" Title="Is there a standard name for the card game &quot;kabou&quot;?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25344" CreationDate="2015-07-29T19:51:03.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the base rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever an investigator enters combat with a monster, resolve the following steps, in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You enter combat separately with each monster. &quot;Combat&quot; refers to that set of steps (horror check, fight or flee, monster damage). So no, it doesn't stay active for multiple monsters, and yes, &quot;this combat&quot; means combat with a single monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T19:51:03.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25350" CreationDate="2015-07-29T22:03:17.180" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Game you are looking for is called &quot;Cabo&quot;. Have a look at the Wikipedia description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabo_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cabo_%28game%29&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13282" LastActivityDate="2015-07-29T22:03:17.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25334" CreationDate="2015-07-30T02:43:02.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Black's pincer is too close to White's stone (it should be at least one space lower). (This variation is not in the joseki books because it is not joseki.) That means that White can &quot;lean on it while indirectly attacking Black's corner stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White should play Q15,Black plays p15, White cuts with P14, threatening to make a ladder to capture stone 3, Black extends from this stone, White ataris with P16, and quashes the corner stone with P17.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$B&#xA;$$ ---------------------&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |..............1...|&#xA;$$ |.............8....|&#xA;$$ |.............542..|&#xA;$$ |.............637..|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;$$ |..................|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T22:06:00.487" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T22:06:00.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25354" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14455" CreationDate="2015-07-30T08:52:48.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that if there aren't enough briefcases in the bag, you just take all remaining briefcases from the bag. So you're right that this could be a problem, but at least Friedemann Friese seems to think it's acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This situation never happened in any of my games, so maybe it's a rare exceptional case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13249" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T08:52:48.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25355" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25356" CreationDate="2015-07-30T13:48:22.443" Score="3" ViewCount="706" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nathan controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeker%20of%20the%20Way&quot;&gt;Seeker of the Way&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Favored%20Hoplite&quot;&gt;Favored Hoplite&lt;/a&gt; with two +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Languish&quot;&gt;Languish&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gods%20Willing&quot;&gt;Gods Willing&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;targeting Favored Hoplite. He announces that Heroic and Prowess have triggered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice acknowledges.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan resolves God's Willing. He scries 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alice resolves Languish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan puts Seeker of the Way into the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nathan waits for a few seconds and then asks if it is his turn. Alice states that Favored Hoplite is dead. Nathan says that he forgot to put a +1/+1 counter on it from Heroic. Alice claims that the trigger was missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_16jun15_en_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules (TR)&lt;/a&gt; define a missed trigger as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities are considered to be forgotten by their controller once they have taken an action past the point where the triggered ability would have an observable impact on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the TR definition, the trigger was missed, because Nathan has taken an action beyond the point where the trigger would have an observable impact on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_17jul15_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide (IPG)&lt;/a&gt; defines a missed trigger as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A triggered ability triggers, but the player controlling the ability doesn’t demonstrate awareness of the trigger’s existence the first time that it would affect the game in a visible fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the IPG definition, the trigger was not missed, because Nathan demonstrated awareness of the trigger's existence long before it would affect the game in a visible fashion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I must be misinterpreting one of the two documents. Was the trigger missed or not? Please answer for both Regular and Competitive REL, and make it clear if they differ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" OwnerDisplayName="Rainbolt" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T15:15:31.893" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T15:15:31.893" Title="Have I missed a trigger if I announce it but then forget to resolve it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25355" CreationDate="2015-07-30T14:28:41.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trigger is considered missed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because demonstrating awareness doesn't mean stating that it triggered, it means acknowledging it at a specific point in time generally when the visible game state changes. According to the IPG the point that needs to be acknowledged in order for the trigger to be not missed is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A triggered ability that causes a change in the visible game state (including life totals) or requires a&#xA;  choice upon resolution:&lt;/strong&gt; The controller must take the appropriate physical action or make it clear what the&#xA;  action taken or choice made is before taking any game actions (such as casting a sorcery spell or explicitly&#xA;  moving to the next step or phase) that can be taken only after the triggered ability should have resolved.&#xA;  Note that casting an instant spell or activating an ability doesn’t mean a triggered ability has been forgotten,&#xA;  as it could still be on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Judging at Regular REL has a similar definition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These abilities are considered missed if the player did not acknowledge the ability in any way at the point&#xA;  that it required choices or had a visible in-game effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Nathan did not make the visible change to the game state of adding the counter he did miss the trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Competitive REL the appropriate remedy is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the triggered ability isn’t covered by the previous two paragraphs, the opponent chooses whether the triggered&#xA;  ability is added to the stack. If it is, it’s inserted at the appropriate place on the stack if possible or on the bottom of&#xA;  the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And at Regular REL the remedy is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the ability includes the word “may,” assume the&#xA;  player chose not to perform it. Otherwise, use your judgement to decide if putting the trigger on the stack&#xA;  now would be too disruptive - don’t add it to the stack if significant decisions have been made based on the&#xA;  effect not happening!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So at Competitive REL Alice will probably choose not to allow the trigger to go on the stack. At Regular REL since nothing has really changed it would not be unreasonable to put the trigger on the stack, but it depends on if the judge thinks too much has changed since the trigger should have occured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T14:57:23.387" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T14:57:23.387" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20578" CreationDate="2015-07-30T15:12:32.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any reason why &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; the Charity or the Looting The Body rules should apply here.  (Yes, this situation is somewhat similar to Charity, but it's not the same.)  Just taking the text literally, all it says is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] you must give them to the lowest-Level player(s) who can carry them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's it.  The only restrictions the rules place on what you can do with your extra Big items are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must give them away (if you can; otherwise the next sentence in the rules kicks in, saying you must discard them).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You must give each of them to (one of) the lowest-Level player(s) who can carry it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, that does not include yourself, or anyone else who's already at their maximum carrying capacity.  &lt;strong&gt;Other than that, since the rules don't say otherwise, you're free to choose among the lowest-Level eligible players.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if the player you choose to give one of your Big items to is not a Dwarf, they'll probably become ineligible to receive any more Big items, which means that you'll have to offload the rest of your excess Big items onto other players.  (Yes, you may use this tactically: first give your Huge Rock to the Level 1 Thief who just backstabbed you, and then spread your more valuable Big items among players you like more.)  On the other hand, a low-level Dwarf could easily end up collecting all of your suddenly-unwieldy loot, whether you want to give it to them or not.  That's just how things happen in Munchkin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="2203" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T08:47:25.467" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T08:47:25.467" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25358" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25359" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:07:02.963" Score="1" ViewCount="4839" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humble&quot;&gt;Humble&lt;/a&gt; causes a creature to become 0/1 and lose all abilities.  If the target creature has an artifact equipped, giving it +1/+1, before this instant is played, does the target lose any benefits applied from the artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13284" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T13:47:30.690" LastActivityDate="2019-06-10T09:45:15.417" Title="Humble and losing ALL abilities: Does this affect creatures with equipped artifacts?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25358" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:12:40.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature will be a 1/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150717.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; define a layer system. When multiple effects need to be applied, the layer system describes the order in which they happen. Humble sets the base power and toughness to 0/1 in layer 7b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the equipment modifies the power and toughness by giving the creature +1/+1, we know that it applies in layer 7c*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.3c Layer 7c: Effects that modify power and/or toughness (but don’t set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value) are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We know that 7b applies before 7c because of rule 613.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;613.3. Within layer 7, apply effects in a series of sublayers in the order described [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7b comes before 7c. Therefore, the example creature is first set to 0/1, then modified to 1/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trivia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/magic-2015-update-bulletin-2014-07-17&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic 2015 Update Bulletin&lt;/a&gt;, the word &quot;base&quot; was added to cards like Humble. This was supposed to make it clear to players that it applies before other effects that might modify power and toughness. Prior to Magic 2015, cards like Humble still worked the same way, but it was less obvious. In other words, it was a nonfunctional change aimed solely at improving clarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*The phrase &quot;Equipped creature gets +1/+1&quot; is an ability of the equipment, not an ability granted to the creature. If the equipment said &quot;Equipped creature gains 'This creature gets +1/+1'&quot;, then it would actually be applied in Layer 6 instead.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-07-30T16:34:39.043" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:34:39.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25360" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25358" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:14:18.030" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The artifact still gives the equipped creature its +1/+1 bonus, because of the order in which power and toughness are calculated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) characteristics (the creature itself)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;b) effects that set power/toughness to specific numbers (such as Humble)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;c) effects that adjust power/toughness but don't set them to specific numbers (+/- effects such as equipment and enchantments)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d) counters (+1/+1 or -1/-1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e) effects that switch power and toughness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after Humble resolves, the creature will be a 1/2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:14:18.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25361" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25363" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:35:01.133" Score="3" ViewCount="2496" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thopter Engineer&lt;/a&gt; which has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Artifact creatures you control have haste. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cast an Artifact Creature. If my opponent were to cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373651&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; targeting &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thopter Engineer&lt;/a&gt; in response, it would go on top of the stack and resolve first, destroying &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thopter Engineer&lt;/a&gt;.  The Artifact Creature would then resolve, enter the battlefield, and not have haste.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise if I cast the Artifact Creature with no response, it resolves, enters the battlefield, and gains haste thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thopter Engineer&lt;/a&gt;'s continuous effect.  What would happen if I passed priority after this and my opponent decided to then cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373651&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398514&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Thopter Engineer&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the Artifact Creature keep haste and be able to attack during combat that turn? Or would it lose haste due to the continuous effect no longer applying and not be able to attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T18:12:01.603" Title="Can a continuous effect that gives haste wear off?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25361" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:38:14.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It actually doesn't matter which ability resolves first. Thopter Engineer's ability is a static ability, and it only functions while he is on the battlefield. If he leaves the battlefield, the ability goes with him, and any creatures that had haste because of him will no longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3d Static abilities are written as statements. They’re simply true. Static abilities create continuous effects which are active while the permanent with the ability is on the battlefield and has the ability, or while the object with the ability is in the appropriate zone. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive rule 604.2 says the same thing, almost verbatim.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T16:38:14.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25361" CreationDate="2015-07-30T16:48:07.580" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Artifact Creature would lose haste if the Engineer was destroyed because it is a continuous effect from a static ability whose source has disappeared. As you mentioned, this means the creature will be unable to attack this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The one difference in your two scenarios is that in the second one, if the Artifact Creature had an activated ability with the tap or untap symbol in its cost, it could use that ability in response to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; being cast against the Engineer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="13141" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T06:01:56.770" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:01:56.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25364" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25368" CreationDate="2015-07-30T19:48:32.887" Score="1" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say Investigator A goes through a gate and comes back to Arkham, and Investigator B moves to that location. What happens, assuming A goes before B?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If A moves to Arkham on his movement phase, then B moves to the gate location, B can hand A an elder sign to then use to seal the gate, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If A moves to Arkham on his movement phase, then sits at that location and, in a later turn, B comes to the gate to give him an elder sign but is first to act in that turn, then before A gets a chance to seal the gate, B gets drawn into the other world, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems pretty straight-forward as long as we observe the phase to phase step-wise turns, but I wanted to be sure that such a plan, to pass items to help someone who wanted to seal a gate, would work and that care needed to be taken how and when investigators arrive at the gate location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:58:52.183" Title="What happens to an investigator who arrives at a gate already explored by another?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25375" CreationDate="2015-07-30T19:51:39.147" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;Combat is often referred to as a unit of activity against one monster (i.e. do &lt;strong&gt;_ during this combat, or gain _&lt;/strong&gt; for this combat). Does this mean that investigators are able to trade items in between combatting two different monsters?  The rules under Trading Equipment say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator in the same street area, Other World area, or location as another investigator may trade money, Common Items, Unique Items, and Spells. This may be done before, during, or after movement, but not during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the question is whether once you're finished combat with a monster if there is a slice of time where you're not 'in combat' before you face off with the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:15:50.497" Title="Can you trade equipment between combat with multiple creatures?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25366" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:02:23.613" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is in response to an answer on another question.  Due to my lack of reputation on this SE I couldn't comment on the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on JonTheMon's answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25361/can-a-continuous-effect-that-gives-haste-wear-off&quot;&gt;Can a continuous effect that gives haste wear off?&lt;/a&gt; , destroying a creature that gives Haste to an artifact creature would remove Haste from the newly summoned artifact creature.  But then he goes on to say that the activated Tap ability would be allowed.  How?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the official rules on Haste (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Haste&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Haste&lt;/a&gt;), tapping or untapping falls under the same rules as attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;702.10b. &#xA;If a creature has haste, it can attack even if it hasn't been controlled by&#xA;its controller continuously since his or her most recent turn began.&#xA;&#xA;702.10c. &#xA;If a creature has haste, its controller can activate its activated abilities &#xA;whose cost includes the tap symbol or the untap symbol even if that creature &#xA;hasn't been controlled by that player continuously since his or her most &#xA;recent turn began.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:12:55.247" Title="Understanding Haste" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-07-30T20:36:14.117" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25448" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:38:08.517" Score="2" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the Sidekick dice (NPCs in D&amp;amp;D) have a level? They don't have a card, and only one character face. Some actions and cards target characters but only of a certain level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="752" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:23:33.270" Title="Do Sidekicks have a level?" Tags="|dice-masters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25364" CreationDate="2015-07-30T20:58:52.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you're correct about both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until the Arkham encounter phase, it doesn't really matter that there's a gate there. So you can do whatever you like during movement, including exchanging items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you arrive at the Arkham encounter phase, each player in a location with a gate will be drawn in if they haven't been through the gate before. So depending on turn order, as you say, either the player who's been through can close/seal the gate first, or the other player will be drawn in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-30T20:58:52.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25370" CreationDate="2015-07-31T01:17:46.053" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dunwich Horror expansion says in the setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With five or more players, place two monsters on the gate indicated by the mythos card instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this something that only occurs in the very first mythos card's gate, or does this requirement for 5+ players occur elsewhere as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T01:31:01.843" Title="Do two monsters only emerge from the gate from the first mythos card in the Dunwich Horror setup?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25369" CreationDate="2015-07-31T01:31:01.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was already in the base rules (top of page 10, Mythos phase, part C3):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exception: If there are five or more investigators playing, then draw and place two monsters instead of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dunwich rules are just saying explicitly that you &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; do this on the first mythos card of the game. That was already true in the base rules, since they said to do it as described above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, the first player draws the top card of the mythos deck and resolves it as described in the Mythos Phase section of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's just more explicit in Dunwich, in the same spirit as all the FAQ provided at the end of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T01:31:01.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25372" CreationDate="2015-07-31T02:16:22.513" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seraph%20Sanctuary&quot;&gt;Seraph Sanctuary&lt;/a&gt; in play, which lets me gain life when an Angel enters the battlefield. If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Call%20to%20Serve&quot;&gt;Call to Serve&lt;/a&gt; on a creature, turning it into an Angel, does adding the subtype like that count as an Angel entering the battlefield, so that I gain life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13291" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T02:24:52.940" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T05:01:09.940" Title="Does adding a subtype to a creature count as entering the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-07-31T16:40:07.580" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25371" CreationDate="2015-07-31T02:25:25.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, attaching Call to Serve to a creature you control &lt;strong&gt;will not&lt;/strong&gt; trigger Seraph Sanctuary's ability. A permanent triggers &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; abilities when it transitions from not being on the battlefield to being on the battlefield, whether it be from the resolution of a creature spell, from the creation of a creature token, or from some other instruction. However, Call to Serve just changes the type of a creature that is already on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T05:01:09.940" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T05:01:09.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-07-31T05:41:03.170" Score="7" ViewCount="2705" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you play x-wing with more than 2 people?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what all do I need to achieve more than 2 players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Free for all? Teams?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T19:11:23.447" Title="Does x-wing support more than 2 players" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25373" CreationDate="2015-07-31T06:13:04.423" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 20 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/37/64/376454fc-e2b9-4a9b-8d99-300f104cefac/swx01_xwingcorerulebook_lowres.pdf&quot;&gt;core rules&lt;/a&gt; there are rules to play as two teams of arbitrary size - basically, each team has a squad of ships which are assigned to players however you like, then teams may discuss strategy as much as they like but each player makes the decisions for their particular ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could play that each team strategises, plans and makes their moves together, such as was done when Seth Green, Clare Grant and Mike Lamond joined Wil Wheaton on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mxPFHBCfuU&quot;&gt;the X-Wing episode of TableTop&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A google search suggests that some people have tried playing 3-player free-for-alls, but unless you score by damage dealt then you often have a scenario where one player avoids the other two until one is eliminated, then swoops in to deal with the remains of the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T06:13:04.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25365" CreationDate="2015-07-31T15:15:50.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; attempts to clarify this but the answer to the Q here is still not crystal clear even after the clarification=)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: Exactly where, when, and what can investigators trade?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Investigators may trade any time during the Movement Phase when they are in the same location, street area, or Other World area except during combat. They may trade before, during or after movement, which means trading does not end a move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say &quot;yes, there's a period of time in between combats you can trade&quot; however.  I think it is pretty clear all the combats do not happen at the exact same time (and rather are sequential).  Without the FAQ, I would have said &quot;no&quot; because the word phase was not used (and it is other places &quot;end of Mythos Phase&quot;) and would have guessed they meant actual movement rather than the Movement Phase.  However, the FAQ specifically says &quot;Movement Phase&quot; which I think makes this more clear.  While you are still fighting it's still the movement phase and being that it's not over you can trade as long as not in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing I looked for was a multi-monster combat example, to see if they used a word like &quot;immediately&quot; but there was no such example I saw in the FAQ or the Rules.  This might be an additional guider if you can find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T15:15:50.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25378" CreationDate="2015-07-31T16:47:48.137" Score="11" ViewCount="1769" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son likes to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conundrum%20Sphinx&quot;&gt;Conundrum Sphinx&lt;/a&gt; because of the &amp;quot;mini game&amp;quot; its ability triggers.  When naming the card on top of your library, how specific do you have to be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:43:49.450" Title="How Specific Does Card Naming Have to Be" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25376" CreationDate="2015-07-31T17:08:06.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to give the actual name, or a description specific enough that it could only apply to a single card. Even in professional Magic, a player has the right to ask a judge for the name and text of a card if they can uniquely describe it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in casual play it would make more sense to only require the description to be unique among cards in the active decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="13141" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T17:27:14.253" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:27:14.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25376" CreationDate="2015-07-31T17:08:32.753" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to be able to uniquely identify the card, you don't necessarily have to get the name correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for this is while the Comprehensive Rules say you have to actually name the card (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Name&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;CR 201.3&lt;/a&gt;), the Tournament Rules state that you can get the Oracle text of the card (which includes the name) as long as you can uniquely identify it (&lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_16jun15_en_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTR 3.6&lt;/a&gt;). In order to not waste time calling a judge to get the Oracle text of a card every time you need to name a card you just need to uniquely identify a card in order to 'name' it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example in a standard tournament if I wanted to name &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20the%20Living%20Guildpact&quot;&gt;Jace, the Living Guildpact&lt;/a&gt; I couldn't just say &amp;quot;Jace&amp;quot; since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Vryn%27s%20Prodigy&quot;&gt;Jace, Vryn&amp;#39;s Prodigy&lt;/a&gt; is also in Standard, and that doesn't uniquely identify which one you are talking about. However you could say &amp;quot;The Jace that doesn't transform&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;The Jace that costs 4&amp;quot; since both of those statements uniquily identifies what card you are talking about in Standard. Note that in Modern you would need to find a different way to describe the card since both of those statements also describe &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Architect%20of%20Thought&quot;&gt;Jace, Architect of Thought&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that for transforming or flip cards for the Conundrum Sphinx, or something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memoricide&quot;&gt;Memoricide&lt;/a&gt; it doesn't matter what name you pick (or uniquely identify), but it does matter for cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pithing%20Needle&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt;. For those you have to identify the appropriate side, so if you wanted to name &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Telepath%20Unbound&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt; for Pithing Needle you could say &amp;quot;The transformed version of Jace&amp;quot; or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T17:43:49.450" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T17:43:49.450" CommentCount="20" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25361" CreationDate="2015-07-31T18:12:01.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rainbolt was a little bit off, and i don't think he understood the difference between the two scenarios. If Thopter Engineer is on the battlefield, and you cast an artifact creature (Let's say Memnite), that artifact creature goes on the stack. Now if your opponent lightning bolts your Thopter Engineer in RESPONSE, the lightning bolt resolves first and kills the thopter engineer, so the Memnite(when it resolves) will not have haste. If they let the Memnite resolve before they lightning bolt the Thopter Engineer, the memnite will have haste as long as the lightning bolt is still on the stack, allowing you to use it for something like convoke or opposition before the thopter engineer dies and the Memnite loses haste. Sorry for long explanation lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13296" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T18:12:01.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25382" CreationDate="2015-07-31T18:59:25.273" Score="0" ViewCount="6794" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valeron%20Warden&quot;&gt;Valeron Warden&lt;/a&gt; and then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knightly%20Valor&quot;&gt;Knightly Valor&lt;/a&gt;, enchanting Valeron Warden. Valeron Warden now has +2/+2 and Vilgilance.  On the next turn, I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archangel%20of%20Tithes&quot;&gt;Archangel of Tithes&lt;/a&gt;, a much stronger creature. To make it stronger, can I move the enchantment, Knightly Valor from Valeron Warden and enchant Archangel of Tithes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All I can find on this is that it must have a target and that it can be sent to the graveyard if the target is sent to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T22:13:58.500" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:47:01.433" Title="Can Auras be moved between creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25380" CreationDate="2015-07-31T19:21:01.000" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general once an Aura is enchanting an object it stays enchanting that object. There are no rules that allow you to move Auras from one object to another, therefore you cannot do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are exceptions though, cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Simic%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Simic Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; have the ability to move Auras to different permanents, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusory%20Gains&quot;&gt;Illusory Gains&lt;/a&gt; moves itself whenever a creature enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-07-31T19:58:30.757" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T19:58:30.757" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25380" CreationDate="2015-07-31T20:38:55.610" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you cannot move the enchantment (unless you have a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aura%20Finesse&quot;&gt;Aura Finesse&lt;/a&gt;.  Aura &lt;strong&gt;spells&lt;/strong&gt; need a target when they are cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;113.1b Aura spells are always targeted. These are the only permanent spells with targets. An Aura’s target is specified by its enchant&#xA;keyword ability (see rule 702.5, “Enchant”). The target(s) are chosen&#xA;as the spell is cast; see rule 601.2c. An Aura permanent doesn’t&#xA;target anything; only the spell is targeted. (An activated or&#xA;triggered ability of an Aura permanent can also be targeted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target is only chosen when it is cast and is a &lt;strong&gt;spell&lt;/strong&gt; (ie. on the stack but before it has resolved and entered the battlefield).  Unless something allows you to move it (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Simic%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Simic Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) there is no way for you to cast it again while it is on the battlefield and choose a new target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T20:38:55.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25380" CreationDate="2015-07-31T22:21:58.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An Aura is attached to something when it enters the battlefield, and it doesn't get to move around. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_mtgm11_rulebook_lr_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic rules&lt;/a&gt; (in the glossary):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aura&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A special type of enchantment that can be attached to a permanent. Each Aura has the keyword &amp;quot;enchant&amp;quot; followed by what it can be attached to: &amp;quot;enchant creature,&amp;quot; &amp;quot;enchant land,&amp;quot; and so on. When you cast an Aura spell, you choose one of the right kind of permanent to target. When the&#xA;Aura resolves, it's put onto the battlefield attached to that permanent (it's not targeting it anymore). The Aura stays there until it's destroyed or the permanent it's attached to leaves the battlefield. If the permanent leaves the battlefield, the Aura card is put into your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can figure out the answer to your question from the comprehensive rules (113.1b plus the generic rules for casting a spell in 601.2, and the lack of anything in the rules that says you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; move it around), but the basic rules are easier and quicker to understand, and you also learn a lot more in the process. For example in this case, you learned for free that auras go to the graveyard when they get detached, but from the comprehensive rules you'd have to have thought to look up state-based actions to find out. And to really verify that there wasn't something somewhere that did say they could be moved, you'd have to search/read through everything about auras.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T22:47:01.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2015-07-31T23:17:19.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The super-team, as I've trial-and-errored to learn, is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harvey Walters, Michael McGlen, Kate Winthrop, and Gloria Goldberg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing about the lot of them is that their abilities aren't item-dependent, and that can turn a game that's going badly into a squeaked-out win. Harvey and Michael's respective &quot;swap out the terror glyph&quot; abilities are really butch, and let them deal with lore-heavy (or peril-heavy) adventures with little item assistance. Kate's terror/monster immunity means she totally owns terror adventures, and monsters can't appear whether she fails or not. That makes her the perfect choice to go looking for the adventures that open other worlds. The other world adventures are the key to fast elder sign acquisition, and Gloria owns them all, since she gets the full load of glyphs when she's gallivating among the dimensions. Fun Fact: in the Cthulhu expansion you raise R'lyeh at the end and have to do a special adventure on it, and it's STILL AN OUTER WORLD, so Gloria's ability is still on full-blast. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In play, use Harvey and Michael to deal with the adventures where they have an advantage. They make good hatchetmen, too, since their individual good stats mean they can soak up the residual damage from monster slaying and still come out on top. These two are also primarily in charge of dealing with the midnight effect adventures, which you absolutely must defeat. Letting a midnight adventure keep dinging you will spell your doom (especially in the Tsathoggua campaign for some reason. You'll be up to your neck in Formless Spawn and won't be able to get anything done). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kate's job is to tackle the terror-enhanced adventures, and look for adventures that open other world portals so she can set those up for Gloria. On Gloria's turn, if there's an other world open, she's going in. If there's not an other world open, angle her into adventures that earn her spells and clues--she doesn't need glyph items for what she does best, and after a couple of other world adventures she'll have plenty of those anyway.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good Hunting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2015-07-31T23:17:19.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25398" CreationDate="2015-08-01T04:04:23.690" Score="0" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a combat super crisis card that has a civilian ship in its set-up evacuate a prepared civilian ship from the New Caprica board onto space around the Galactica?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2087" LastEditorUserId="2087" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T06:00:58.080" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T06:00:58.080" Title="Combat super crisis cards during final jump in the Pegasus expansion" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|pegasus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T04:58:34.137" Score="2" ViewCount="183" Body="&lt;p&gt;When activating the ability on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Panic%20Spellbomb&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; (tap, Sacrifice Panic Spellbomb: Target creature can't block this turn.), can the opponent then use an Instant such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Banishing%20Stroke&quot;&gt;Banishing Stroke&lt;/a&gt; to put Panic Spellbomb on the bottom of it's owner's library? Both are happening at instant speed, so do they stack like typical instants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13304" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T05:27:07.390" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T05:33:55.713" Title="Can Panic Spellbomb be returned to the library in response to its ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25386" CreationDate="2015-08-01T05:25:23.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent can't do that. Sacrificing the Spellbomb is part of the cost, and you pay costs as part of activating the ability and putting it on the stack, and only once you're done with all that does anyone get priority. So by the time your opponent gets the chance to do anything, it's already in your graveyard. (This is just like how your opponent couldn't do something in response to you paying mana for a spell or ability.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Spellbomb weren't being sacrificed, your opponent could cast Banishing Stroke on it, but it wouldn't really accomplish anything. Once an ability is activated, it exists on the stack independently of its source. (Yes, activated abilities use the stack.) You'd activate the ability, and your opponent could cast Banishing Stroke in response. The Banishing Stroke would then be on top of the stack, and resolve first. It'd put the Spellbomb on the bottom of your library, then the Spellbomb's ability would resolve as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: all spells and activated abilities use the stack, regardless of whether they're instants (or at &quot;instant speed&quot;). The important thing about instants and activated abilities is that they can be cast/activated any time you have priority, e.g. while something's already on the stack. That is, the bottom thing on the stack definitely doesn't have to be at &quot;instant speed&quot;, just the things added on top of it (usually) - and the stack resolves top-down the same way no matter what's on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T05:25:23.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25386" CreationDate="2015-08-01T05:33:55.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities use the stack. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb's&lt;/a&gt; ability is no exception.  Although it does happen at instant speed, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb's&lt;/a&gt; ability is not actually an instant spell, it is an activated ability. From the comprehensive MTG rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.1. Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as &quot;[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb's&lt;/a&gt; ability reads: &quot;Tap, Sacrifice Panic Spellbomb: Target creature can't block this turn.&quot; Sacrificing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; is part of the cost of activating it's ability because it comes before the colon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that in order to put &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb's&lt;/a&gt; ability on the stack, you must pay its costs (tap it and sacrifice it) first, meaning that it would be in your graveyard before it even went on the stack in the first place. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; would then be an illegal target for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240156&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Banishing Stroke&lt;/a&gt; as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389625&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Panic Spellbomb&lt;/a&gt; would be in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T05:33:55.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25397" CreationDate="2015-08-01T07:24:25.470" Score="2" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an environment card makes my max stamina go down 1, I would lose a stamina token.  However, if a new environment card shows and I haven't taken any stamina damage, do I get to move it back up to my maximum?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T11:41:04.210" Title="If maximum stamina gets reduced during an environment card, when the card is discarded, do I return to max?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25395" CreationDate="2015-08-01T07:52:49.317" Score="4" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do exhibit items from the Curse of the Dark Pharaoh expansion count as tradable items?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T18:33:31.167" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T18:33:31.167" Title="Can I trade exhibit items from the Curse of the Dark Pharaoh expansion with other investigators?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25393" CreationDate="2015-08-01T07:53:23.557" Score="5" ViewCount="453" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend and I had a little confusion. He was playing with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sarkhan%2C%20the%20Dragonspeaker&quot;&gt;Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker&lt;/a&gt; and activated the +1, then attacked. The creature did not have vigilance, and wasn't destroyed. So naturally, it would tap. But my friend said because it goes back to being a planeswalker at the end of the turn, it doesn't tap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is there any rule that clarifies this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12529" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T16:14:19.377" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T12:27:28.560" Title="Does Sarkhan the Dragonspeaker tap with his +1?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25396" CreationDate="2015-08-01T08:19:06.347" Score="4" ViewCount="361" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to discover that losing sanity would drive me insane, can I use the ally Duke to immediately heal my sanity first?  It sounds like I would be cheating time doing this, so my thinking is that the answer is no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T11:21:04.547" Title="Can I use Duke to immediately restore sanity right after I discover I'm going to lose it?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25391" CreationDate="2015-08-01T08:32:33.280" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you'll tap him to attack, like any other creature. The same goes for any other planeswalker that's presently a creature (unless it has vigilance, as you've noticed), such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%20Jura&quot;&gt;Gideon Jura&lt;/a&gt; — being creatures, they'll follow any of the usual rules for creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that when he returns to being a plain old planeswalker, he'll be tapped. Planeswalkers can be tapped! There's nothing saying planeswalkers can't be tapped. He'll untap at your next untap step, just like any other permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T08:32:33.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25390" CreationDate="2015-08-01T11:13:16.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Exhibit items can be traded like other items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/f9/be/f9bed12e-4dac-43bc-a7c6-951c3afefe61/curse_dark_pharoah_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Curse of the Dark Pharaoh rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Exhibit Item cards represent the ancient Egyptian artifacts&#xA;  brought to Arkham as part of the &quot;Legacy of the&#xA;  Pharaohs&quot; museum exhibit. They are similar to Unique Items,&#xA;  but have no monetary value and can only be gained through&#xA;  Arkham, Other World, and Exhibit encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This states that they function the same as Unique Items, but does not disclude them being traded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Complete Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 4/5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Exactly where, when, and what can investigators&#xA;  trade?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  They may trade Common Items, Unique Items, Spells,&#xA;  the Patrol Wagon, the Deputy’s Revolver, Exhibit Items&#xA;  [CotDP], Rail Passes [DH], and Money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T11:13:16.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25392" CreationDate="2015-08-01T11:21:04.547" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you couldn't use Duke in that situation. Certain cards such as Flesh Ward specifically allow interrupting the order of things to prevent you from taking damage, but Duke does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to choose to use Duke before whatever action you were taking (such as drawing an encounter), or afterwards, but it cannot interrupt the resolution of a card once it has started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Complete FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 14):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; When can a character perform actions during a phase?&#xA;  For example, if a player with the ally Duke (“discard to&#xA;  immediately restore your Sanity to its maximum”) draws&#xA;  an encounter and has to roll a die and lose that much&#xA;  Sanity, when can he discard Duke to restore Sanity: not at&#xA;  all once the encounter card is drawn, before the roll, or&#xA;  after the roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; He may discard Duke after the roll, provided he&#xA;  has not been driven insane. Actions can be performed&#xA;  at any time during their listed phase as long as any given&#xA;  conditions are met. However, once an encounter is drawn,&#xA;  it must be resolved before any more actions can be performed.&#xA;  So, in the case of Duke, you can use him before&#xA;  or after drawing an encounter card, but if you draw the&#xA;  encounter card and it inflicts Sanity loss that reduces you&#xA;  to 0 Sanity, you go insane before you can use Duke. Flesh&#xA;  Ward is one exception to this rule because it prevents a&#xA;  Stamina loss and is intended to be used in response to such&#xA;  events. The Premonition Spell [CotDP] is another exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T11:21:04.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25389" CreationDate="2015-08-01T11:41:04.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you wouldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't instantly gain stamina/sanity when your maximum increases, thus you also wouldn't gain stamina/sanity if a penalty to your maximum was removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T11:41:04.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25385" CreationDate="2015-08-01T11:55:05.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. From the rulebook (pg. 15):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the Prepare for Jump step of every subsequent New Caprica Crisis Card, when an evacuation icon appears, the current player takes one civilian ship from the top of the Prepared Civilian Ships stack and moves it to any space area with a viper launch icon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no mention that it can happen any other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, I'm surprised that there is even a combat set-up card in the New Caprica Crisis deck that would have a civilian ship on it, although I don't have it in front of me to check. Can you show an example of the card you mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder if you've switched back to the regular Crisis deck after Galactica returns? You should be continuing to use the New Caprica Crisis deck. Additionally, just some extra info from pg. 16:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During the New Caprica phase, ignore any effect that would place, destroy, or move ships in any space area around Galactica or centurions on the Boarding Party track, until the Galactica returns to orbit (see page 17).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T11:55:05.537" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25400" CreationDate="2015-08-01T16:24:18.170" Score="4" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to teach my 10-year-old son to play &lt;em&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/em&gt;. I'd also like it to be easier to teach new players. &lt;strong&gt;Are there any simplified/beginner rules for &lt;em&gt;Race for the Galaxy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2021-03-20T00:56:21.173" Title="Are there simplified rules for Race for the Galaxy?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25400" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25399" CreationDate="2015-08-01T16:35:09.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any simplified rules. I suspect it'd be pretty difficult to remove significant things without throwing the game out of whack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the base game does have suggested starting hands for your first game, which is easy to forget. From the setup section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[normal rules for dealing start worlds]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your first game:&lt;/strong&gt; instead, for two players, use start worlds 1 and 2; for three, use start worlds 1-3; and, for four, use start worlds 1-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[normal rules for dealing starting hands]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your first game:&lt;/strong&gt; instead, each player uses the four numbered game cards&#xA;matching his start world’s number as his initial (preset) hand. After finding these preset hand cards, shuffle all the remaining game cards, including any left over start worlds and preset hand cards, together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is sort of like simplified rules in that your first choices are pretty obvious, and that initial setup will guide the rest of your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The quick summaries in the margins of the rules also provide a nice way of explaining the important things to new players without getting bogged down too much in details. Most importantly, you really don't want to explain a lot of individual cards' powers before you start playing - that can wait until you're looking at them in a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're playing with experienced gamers, that's probably enough; they can figure it out as they go along, especially with you watching out for anything they might misunderstand on cards. If you want to make it a bit friendlier, playing the first game open hands takes off a lot of the pressure and makes sure everyone gets to see how it all works. It can also be extremely helpful to run through an example turn before you start; some people don't really grok the whole selecting phases deal until they see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, by far the hardest and most time-consuming thing for new players is having to read so many cards during their first game. You have to do it all the time - not just when picking a phase, but when picking what to keep from explore, when picking what to spend to develop/settle, and so on. If you still really want to simplify the rules, that's probably the thing you want to attack. I'm not sure exactly what to suggest, but perhaps something like keeping half the cards you draw face down, so that they're purely resources to spend, not options to consider? It'd make your options more limited and slow everyone down, of course, but if it's only for the first game it might be tolerable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T16:12:47.880" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25402" CreationDate="2015-08-01T19:34:03.500" Score="7" ViewCount="314" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a draft or sealed event I often finish my match before everyone else in the event is done with theirs. Is it impolite to walk around and observe the matches still in progress, given that I may be playing against these decks in future matches and may gain insight into what cards they are playing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I often see others doing this, but I usually refrain because it seems to be bad manners. However, I've never seen anyone get upset about this behavior. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13307" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T20:46:56.260" Title="After I finish my match in a draft, is it okay to observe other matches?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|etiquette|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25401" CreationDate="2015-08-01T20:08:48.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is perfectly acceptable to observe other matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not currently playing, and you are not a judge, then you are a spectator by definition. There are a few rules governing spectators mentioned in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_16jun15_en_0.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may request (via a judge) that you not observe their matches. You may not make notes while drafting. You may not place bets on any portion of the game. You may not provide assistance to players in a match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; allowed to collect and share information in order to gain an advantage. This is called scouting. Some people dislike this behavior, but it is legal nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I want to note that at Regular REL (which includes Friday Night Magic) the &quot;continuous construction&quot; option is allowed unless the tournament organizer explicitly says otherwise. This means that you can sideboard between matches. This rewards scouting. However, it also makes the game more fun for newbies who may want to improve their deck as the evening goes on. Talk to your tournament organizer and explain the upsides and downsides. Help them make an informed decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T20:46:56.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-01T20:46:56.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25403" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-01T22:14:34.183" Score="2" ViewCount="993" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was thinking of using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mark%20of%20Asylum&quot;&gt;Mark of Asylum&lt;/a&gt; to protect my creatures from cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Languish&quot;&gt;Languish&lt;/a&gt;, but does giving all creatures -4/-4 count as damage dealt in the same way, for instance, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swirling%20Sandstorm&quot;&gt;Swirling Sandstorm&lt;/a&gt; does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13309" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-01T23:12:02.527" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T02:25:35.653" Title="Does a card like Languish count as a damage-dealing sorcery?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25403" CreationDate="2015-08-01T23:12:11.110" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, only spells and abilities that actually say damage deal damage. (Creatures can also deal damage in combat or when fighting, of course.) Languish just changes power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T02:25:35.653" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T02:25:35.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25406" CreationDate="2015-08-02T04:51:43.897" Score="6" ViewCount="20298" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ojutai%20Monument&quot;&gt;Ojutai Monument&lt;/a&gt; can be turned into a creature card until end of turn. If I attached enchantments or equipment to it, would they stay attached even when the card turns back into a non-creature artifact?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reasoning for yes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The card is not leaving the battlefield, so the cards attached wouldn't either.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Reasoning for no&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How would a simple artifact gain the effects only a creature could have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13260" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T05:06:43.663" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T05:07:09.517" Title="Do auras and equipment stay on cards if they stop being creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25405" CreationDate="2015-08-02T04:55:28.830" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Equipment will fall off, and Auras most likely will as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equipment can only be attached to creatures. If it finds itself attached to a non-creature permanent, like when the Ojutai Monument turns back into a plain old non-creature artifact, that's illegal, and it'll be detached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5. Some artifacts have the subtype “Equipment.” An Equipment can be attached to a creature. It can’t legally be attached to an object that isn’t a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5p If an Equipment or Fortification is attached to an illegal permanent, it becomes unattached from that permanent. It remains on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an Aura says &amp;quot;Enchant Creature&amp;quot; on it, that means it can only be attached to creatures. So if it finds itself attached to a non-creature artifact instead, that's illegal, and it's put into its owner's graveyard. If on the other hand the enchantment said &amp;quot;Enchant permanent&amp;quot; (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Take%20Possession&quot;&gt;Take Possession&lt;/a&gt;) it'd be able to stay attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.5a Enchant is a static ability, written “Enchant [object or player].” The enchant ability restricts what an Aura spell can target and what an Aura can enchant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-02T05:07:09.517" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T05:07:09.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25407" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25408" CreationDate="2015-08-02T14:28:34.140" Score="5" ViewCount="3752" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you get down to 4 or less monsters do you go back to only occupying Tokyo City and not both Tokyo City and Tokyo Bay?  I played my first game with 5 players and after few of us died we continued occupying both until it came down to 2 players and we realized it would not work with 2 players in Tokyo at the same time.  I could not find anything in the rules, but I suspect once you get down to less than 5 players, you only occupy Tokyo City.  However, I would like to know the actual rules around when you go from 5 to 4 monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13313" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T14:56:37.187" Title="In King of Tokyo when playing with 5-6 players, what happens when monsters die?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25407" CreationDate="2015-08-02T14:56:37.187" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 2 of the rules, under the Advanced Rules section, answers this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a monster is eliminated and that brings the number of Monsters below 5, Tokyo Bay can't be occupied anymore. The monster in it must leave Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your guess was correct. You can only occupy Tokyo City once you drop down to 4 Monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T14:56:37.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24751" CreationDate="2015-08-02T15:15:13.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can opt not to move units in the combat move phase. However, you have to declare all your combat movement and carry it to resolution before doing non-combat stuff. So you can't, say, non-combat-move reinforcements out of Moscow into Karelia and then declare an attack using eastern troops against something Japanese. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's tempting to want to deal with the stuff you find &quot;most important&quot; first to get it out of the way, but your combat stuff &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the most important stuff.  :) So look at all your troops and determine all your attacks first. THEN, if you don't have any combat moves you want to make, move to the next phase of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T15:15:13.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24833" CreationDate="2015-08-02T15:17:40.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The use of the spell is interrupting the normal flow of task completion. Once it is resolved, task completion proceeds as normal. So even if you magic away the monster, you then have to either complete a task or discard a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13302" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T15:17:40.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-02T16:56:41.167" Score="10" ViewCount="7469" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the wiki books on monopoly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, when there is a housing shortage, it can pay to tear down houses on one colour group to immediately build them on a different colour group. However, if another player declares an interest in buying the houses you have torn down, you will have to outbid that player for them, so this tactic pays off only when you are buying the torn down houses for expensive properties anyway, and you have much cash, and the other likely bidders are cash poor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played monopoly since I was a kid and I have never heard of bidding for houses; I thought sold houses reverted to the bank, and can then be bought again by other players if there is a shortage. What's the deal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13315" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T15:39:15.653" Title="Monopoly houses bidding?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25411" CreationDate="2015-08-02T17:08:26.443" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot;&gt;rules for monopoly&lt;/a&gt; are pretty clear on this point (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;BUILDING SHORTAGES: When the Bank has no houses to sell, players&#xA;  wishing to build must wait for some player to return or sell histher&#xA;  houses to the Bank before building. &lt;strong&gt;If there are a limited number of&#xA;  houses and hotels available&lt;/strong&gt; and two or more players wish to buy more&#xA;  than the Bank has, the houses or hotels &lt;strong&gt;must be sold at auction&lt;/strong&gt; to the&#xA;  highest bidder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T17:08:26.443" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23602" CreationDate="2015-08-02T19:53:10.713" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you use a &quot;Dark&quot; race modifier then causing your opponent to lose could win you the game if there loss causes their character to die.Otherwise, no an elf interfering  one way or the other would not yield a win unless they were actually in the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/68/10/40/6810402a1635377095ac830016f9ebfc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/68/10/40/6810402a1635377095ac830016f9ebfc.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13317" LastActivityDate="2015-08-02T19:53:10.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25414" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-03T00:44:30.380" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few parts to this question? First, if the toughness of a monster is reduced during combat by some effect such as a spell or item (I know there is one that reduces monster toughness by 1), is the trophy toughness also valued one less? I have been playing this as 'no'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if some effect raises the toughness of all or some monsters, and then after defeating one, the effect goes away, is the toughness of the trophy the originally listed toughess on the token or the enhanced toughness? Similarly one could imagine where a situation alters the toughness of a monster type you've already defeated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not totally sure these last two cases actually exist but don't want to spoil more cards looking for it. If one could clarify that'd be great. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T00:44:30.380" Title="When counting toughness for a monster trophy, do you use the toughness when killed or the current toughness its type might have?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-08-03T03:51:43.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25419" CreationDate="2015-08-03T00:49:00.290" Score="1" ViewCount="6372" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you build a room over an existing room, is the existing room considered deactivated, or does it still effect game play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you build a Monster's Ballroom over Goblin Armory does the Ballroom count the Armory as a monster room, and does the Goblin Armory still have its ability, damage and /or treasure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1087" LastEditorUserId="1087" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T16:57:16.143" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T16:57:16.143" Title="Does building over rooms render the old room inactive?" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25417" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20957" CreationDate="2015-08-03T11:30:21.313" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a bunch of house rules in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this document&lt;/a&gt;, some of which could be used to weaken The Tower:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Towers cannot capture over empty tiles. (Thanks to viberunner)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;A single-storey tower can only capture a follower on its own tile. Each additional storey adds an additional tile of range in each direction – the rate of increasing range is the same as the normal rules, but the starting point is less powerful (the “No Surprises” rule). (Thanks to keyofnight)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-03T11:54:38.770" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T11:54:38.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25391" CreationDate="2015-08-03T12:27:28.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any permanent can be tapped, although planeswalkers and enchantments are rarely tapped. &quot;Tappedness&quot; is a property of all permanents. Doppelgreener's answer explains the situation well, but here are the supporting rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.6&lt;/strong&gt;. A permanent’s status is its physical state. There are four status categories, each of which has two possible values: tapped/untapped, flipped/unflipped, face up/face down, and phased in/phased out. Each permanent always has one of these values for each of these categories.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On untapping:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;502.2&lt;/strong&gt;. Second, the active player determines which permanents he or she controls will untap. Then he or she untaps them all simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. Normally, all of a player’s permanents untap, but effects can keep one or more of a player’s permanents from untapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T12:27:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25415" CreationDate="2015-08-03T14:38:53.403" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you build over a room the old room is no longer in play and has no effect on the dungeon until all rooms that have been built over it have been destroyed and it is the top room again. When that happens ita normal rules are back in play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T14:38:53.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25420" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25399" CreationDate="2015-08-03T16:04:58.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an off-the-wall answer, consider playing &quot;San Juan&quot; instead.  It's basically the same game, themed like Puerto-Rico, but with a much more limited set of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a much easier learning curve than RftG.  Some of us even think it's better! ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T16:04:58.730" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23602" CreationDate="2015-08-03T17:34:00.833" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, &lt;em&gt;if&lt;/em&gt; you own the game, since the rules state the owner of the game resolves disputes, and otherwise change the rules as they see fit; it won't be fun for the other players, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2015-08-03T17:34:00.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25423" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T01:12:35.660" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;If opener bids, say 1 NT, his partner becomes the team &quot;captain&quot; on further bidding because the NT opener has strictly limited both his point count and &quot;shape&quot; with such a bid. That is, partner can bid 2 clubs (Stayman) or any number of &quot;transfer&quot; bids, and opener has to rebid the appropriate suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose the opponents intervene, and the bidding goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;South 1NT West 2 spades North pass East 3 Spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North has (s) Jxxx (h) xxx (d) xxx (c) xxx. Is it North's prerogative (captaincy) as to whether or not to double, knowing that South has at least 15 hcp and (probably) xx in spades? Put another way, should South refrain from doubling on the off chance that North has both a Yarborough and a void in spades, even if South has good spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T21:58:13.350" Title="Is the partner of a no trump opener also the team &quot;captain&quot; on defense?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25427" CreationDate="2015-08-04T05:55:11.510" Score="4" ViewCount="43755" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Artifact equipment, say I've equipped it to one creature, and I want to move it to another, can it be equipped to another creature if I pay its equip cost again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thought process is that they aren't like Enchantment-Aura's which target a creature specifically, more so like an item that is not bound. Am I right in thinking then that they can be equipped more than once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T14:19:16.233" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T17:33:58.987" Title="Can equipment be re-equipped to another creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25425" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-04T06:05:24.397" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tales of Arabian Nights&lt;/em&gt; is a 2009 storytelling game set in the fictional world of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Thousand_and_One_Nights&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;One Thousand and One Nights&lt;/a&gt;. It was published by Z-Man games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this game each of up to six players takes the role of a figure from the One Thousand and One Nights, travelling around the ancient world and taking part in events of that world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game is to collect points of Story and Destiny through these events. Each player chooses their own target score at the beginning of the game, with the total number of points between both being 20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with a 1985 game with the name by West End Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-15T19:33:04.443" LastActivityDate="2018-01-15T19:33:04.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25426" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-04T06:05:24.397" Score="0" Body="A 2009 storytelling game set in the fictional world of One Thousand and One Nights." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:34:04.690" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:34:04.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25424" CreationDate="2015-08-04T06:16:57.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you have an Equipment attached to one creature, you can pay its equip cost to attach it to another creature. Every Equipment has the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Equip&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Equip keyword ability&lt;/a&gt;, which is defined in rule 702.6a as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Equip is an activated ability of artifact Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: &lt;strong&gt;Attach this Equipment to target creature you control&lt;/strong&gt;. Activate this ability only any time you could play a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Attach&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Attach keyword action&lt;/a&gt; that the Equip ability uses is defined in rule 701.2a as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To attach an Aura, Equipment, or Fortification to an object means to take it from where it currently is and put it onto that object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if an Equipment is already attached to a creature, when you activate its Equip ability, you move it from where it currently is (attached to the original creature) and put it onto the new creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing to keep in mind is that the Equip ability is an ability the Equipment has, not the creature. So if, for example, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suppression%20Bonds&quot;&gt;Suppression Bonds&lt;/a&gt; is attached to the creature, you can still re-equip an Equipment attached to that creature. However, if the Suppression Bonds were instead attached to the Equipment itself, you would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; be able to activate the Equip ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T14:42:15.450" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T14:42:15.450" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25428" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-04T06:22:25.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Adventures&lt;/em&gt;, the 9th &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/dominion&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;dominion&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;dominion&lt;/a&gt; game, is an expansion introducing 30 new kingdom cards. The unifying theme is cards that involve going on an epic quest. It includes Duration cards that have ongoing effects and Reserve cards that can be used at a later time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dominion rules are &lt;em&gt;extraordinarily&lt;/em&gt; comprehensive. For questions regarding how cards interact, if you can, check the individual card entries in the appropriate rulebook(s) and you'll probably find your answer there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T12:31:21.593" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T12:31:21.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25429" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-04T06:22:25.437" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Dominion built around the theme of going on an epic quest" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T13:34:01.017" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T13:34:01.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25411" CreationDate="2015-08-04T08:10:52.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;Only you&lt;/em&gt; can buy houses on your turn. &lt;em&gt;All players&lt;/em&gt; can buy houses between the turns. So between turns, there could be a house auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; about building houses seems to be the subject of much debate. Everyone I know builds their houses on their own turn. If you do that, then there will never be two people trying to claim houses at the same time. Unfortunately, the rules don't say you can only build houses on your own turn. They explicitly state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you own all the properties in a color-group you may buy houses from the Bank and erect them on those properties.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  [...]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Following the above rules, you may buy and erect at any time as many houses as your judgement and financial standing will allow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing about your own turn there. Looks as though you can just build whenever. Here's another one that implies that you can buy houses simultaneously:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the Bank has no houses to sell, players wishing to build must wait for some player to return or sell histher houses to the Bank before building. If there are a limited number of houses and hotels available and two or more players wish to buy more than the Bank has, the houses or hotels must be sold at auction to the highest bidder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is backed up by some &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopolytourney.com/rules.html/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tournament rule&lt;/a&gt; pages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The buying and selling of houses does not have to occur on your turn, but rather, can be done at any time during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest concern here is that someone can buy a house between someone rolling the dice, and landing on a property. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopoly_(game)#Properties&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; says the following (even though it doesn't have a citation for it):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player owns all of the properties in a color group and none of them are mortgaged, they may develop them during their turn or in between other player's turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried to find another source for this and found it &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/201123/official-tournament-rules-discussion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, though again this is not an official source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The way the rule is applied in tournaments is that it means that you do not have to wait for your turn to buy houses. They allow you to buy houses between player’s turns. Once a person has started their turn by rolling the dice you must wait until the end of their turn before you can build. What we typically do is as the next player is reaching for the dice we call out “Hold the dice, I want to build”.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that between players' turns there can be an auction between various players that want to buy the same houses. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These auctions can proceed as you see fit, but are managed by the banker. &lt;a href=&quot;http://funskool.indiatimes.com/rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; is rather thorough in its explanation on these auctions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Banker runs auctions. Players must indicate the specific property to be improved if the house/hotel is won before bidding. Auction bids start at the value of houses/hotels for the lowest-priced property where it might be placed. The highest bidder, after giving his/her money to the Banker, places the house/hotel on the identified property. If houses/hotels remain and more than one person wishes to purchase the remaining houses/hotels, then another auction is held for the right to purchase these houses/hotels, one by one.This continues until no houses/hotels remain, until no one wishes to buy, or until only one person wishes to purchase houses/hotels. If only one person wishes to purchase, he/she may do so without an auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T15:39:15.653" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T15:39:15.653" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25433" CreationDate="2015-08-04T09:09:04.383" Score="5" ViewCount="2327" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a black-bordered 8th edition foil &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorn%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Thorn Elemental&lt;/a&gt;. I really like this card, and I tried to find a place where I can buy it again. However, I can only find white-bordered versions of this card in the 8th edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I have a counterfeit card, or is there a black-bordered foil version in the 8th edition? I have not coloured in the border as other questions have suggested. I just can't seem to find a black border 8th edition foil, even on the main Magic wizards site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that white-bordered cards can be played. I'm just a bit confused as to how my black-bordered card cannot be found anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T14:06:28.613" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T14:06:28.613" Title="Is my black-bordered foil from 8th edition a counterfeit? Where can I find more copies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T10:31:30.873" Score="2" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm designing a custom boardgame and am looking to get a few stacks of custom cards printed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a high quality card printing service but a little worried about simply using Google to find one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which specifics should I look for in a card printing service to ensure a high quality result? And are there perhaps comprehensive lists of printing services available that I can use for this comparison?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.  :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13332" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T17:39:22.027" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T11:34:06.880" Title="Are there quality custom boardgame card printers?" Tags="|playing-cards|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25431" CreationDate="2015-08-04T12:01:53.280" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Foil_card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All foil cards are black-bordered, even those from the last white-bordered core sets, except those from Unhinged which are silver-bordered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A black-bordered foil &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thorn%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Thorn Elemental&lt;/a&gt; is valid anywhere any other Thorn Elemental is. You can find it, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgotraders.com/store/8ED_Thorn_Elemental_f.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. Some sites just don't show separate images for foil versions of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T12:01:53.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25373" CreationDate="2015-08-04T14:18:32.797" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;My games club plays &lt;em&gt;furballs&lt;/em&gt;. Each player gets 1 ship to a maximum point limit agreed beforehand (we usually pick 30 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player has a spawn point. Every time a player is destroyed, they respawn. The player who destroyed that ship gains a point. The player who was destroyed loses a point. Play continues until a player reaches a score limit (we usually play to +5) or a time limit is reached (we usually play for an hour for 6 players, adding 10 minutes for each extra player).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Variation on furballs: &lt;em&gt;bounty hunting&lt;/em&gt;. Randomly allocate each player a bounty player. Keep this knowledge secret. If you destroy your bounty, gain +2 to your score, instead of the usual +1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T14:18:32.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25435" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27990" CreationDate="2015-08-04T14:31:38.160" Score="5" ViewCount="6505" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to collect most cards relevant to pauper. All cards that have ever been printed at the common level on paper are legal for pauper, except for &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/pauper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;10 cards on the pauper ban list&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because MTGO pauper is more popular than paper pauper, and because it is so easily available electronically, it is easy to find data and analysis on the most frequently used cards in pauper. I did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that there are some cards, such as Chainer's Edict, that are common on MTGO but have never been printed as paper commons. They are therefore not legal for play with paper pauper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a list maintained of cards printed at common for MTGO, but not paper? If so, please provide link. If there is no such list but it turns out to be very few cards, then the answer should contain that short list of cards, followed by &quot;as of x date.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: For the exact opposite list of cards, see: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25474/what-paper-pauper&quot;&gt;What pauper cards are legal in paper but not MTGO&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2018-03-22T22:21:08.967" LastActivityDate="2018-03-22T22:21:08.967" Title="What pauper cards are legal in MTGO but not paper?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25435" CreationDate="2015-08-04T15:43:55.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to magiccards.info, the sets that were only &quot;printed&quot; online are MTGO Masters Edition I through IV and Vintage Masters. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=r%3Acommon%20%28e%3Avma%2Fen%20or%20e%3Ame4%2Fen%20or%20e%3Ame3%2Fen%20or%20e%3Ame2%2Fen%20or%20e%3Amed%2Fen%29&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This search page&lt;/a&gt; lists all 376 cards that were printed as common in one of those sets. You can see on the right side of each card listing the rarities the cards were printed at in other sets. I haven't looked through the whole list, but as a sample, 7 of the 20 cards on the first page were only printed as commons online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T15:43:55.660" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25435" CreationDate="2015-08-04T16:42:26.790" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a program that lets me do weird queries, this was an interesting one to code.  Here are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Adarkar Sentinel                  Addle                             Aeolipile                         &#xA;Afterlife                         Alluring Scent                    Anaba Ancestor                    &#xA;Anaba Spirit Crafter              Armored Griffin                   Arrogant Wurm                     &#xA;Balduvian Conjurer                Barktooth Warbeard                Battle Screech                    &#xA;Beetleback Chief                  Bone Flute                        Brass Man                         &#xA;Brilliant Plan                    Brindle Shoat                     Chainer's Edict                   &#xA;Circular Logic                    Citanul Druid                     Claws of Wirewood                 &#xA;Coal Golem                        Dauthi Mercenary                  Death Spark                       &#xA;Demonic Torment                   Desperate Charge                  Drift of the Dead                 &#xA;Ebony Horse                       Elephant Guide                    Elven Lyre                        &#xA;Exile                             Fellwar Stone                     Feral Thallid                     &#xA;Fire Drake                        Flying Carpet                     Foul Spirit                       &#xA;Gilded Light                      Glasses of Urza                   Goblin Commando                   &#xA;Goblin Firestarter                Goblin General                    Gravebind                         &#xA;Heavy Fog                         Hunting Cheetah                   Hyalopterous Lemure               &#xA;Icatian Lieutenant                Icatian Phalanx                   Icequake                          &#xA;Icy Prison                        Ironhoof Ox                       Jedit Ojanen                      &#xA;Jerrard of the Closed Fist        Just Fate                         Killer Whale                      &#xA;Kjeldoran Elite Guard             Kjeldoran Skycaptain              Knights of Thorn                  &#xA;Kobold Taskmaster                 Lady Orca                         Lava Flow                         &#xA;Lesser Werewolf                   Library of Leng                   Lightning Blow                    &#xA;Mana Prism                        Mightstone                        Mistmoon Griffin                  &#xA;Oasis                             Obsianus Golem                    Ogre Taskmaster                   &#xA;Onulet                            Peach Garden Oath                 Phantasmal Forces                 &#xA;Phantasmal Mount                  Phantom Monster                   Predatory Nightstalker            &#xA;Primal Clay                       Ramirez DePietro                  Red Cliffs Armada                 &#xA;Righteous Avengers                River Merfolk                     Rockslide Ambush                  &#xA;Roots                             Royal Trooper                     Sea Sprite                        &#xA;Shield Sphere                     Shu Elite Companions              Shu General                       &#xA;Shu Soldier-Farmers               Shyft                             Sir Shandlar of Eberyn            &#xA;Sivitri Scarzam                   Skirge Familiar                   Skirk Drill Sergeant              &#xA;Slashing Tiger                    Sol Grail                         Soltari Emissary                  &#xA;Spoils of Victory                 Strategic Planning                Tangle                            &#xA;Tawnos's Wand                     Telekinesis                       Thallid Devourer                  &#xA;The Lady of the Mountain          Thermokarst                       Thrull Retainer                   &#xA;Tobias Andrion                    Torsten Von Ursus                 Tribute to the Wild               &#xA;Trip Wire                         Wall of Kelp                      Wall of Light                     &#xA;Wanderlust                        Warp Artifact                     Wei Elite Companions              &#xA;Whiteout                          Wu Longbowman                     &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: forgot Tempest Remastered:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Armor Sliver                      Barbed Sliver                     Bottle Gnomes                     &#xA;Elven Rite                        Horned Sliver                     Mnemonic Sliver                   &#xA;Patchwork Gnomes                  Skyshaper                         Staunch Defenders                 &#xA;Telethopter                       Verdigris                         Whispers of the Muse     &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7347" LastEditorUserId="7347" LastEditDate="2015-08-04T16:48:14.297" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T16:48:14.297" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-04T17:11:57.500" Score="0" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to collect most cards relevant to pauper. Because MTGO pauper is more popular than paper pauper, and because it is so easily available electronically, it is easy to find data and analysis on the most frequently used cards in pauper. I did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that there are some cards (most notably Hymn to Tourach and High Tide) not available on MTGO but are essential paper pauper commons. Other popular pauper cards include Goblin Grenade, Desert, Pyrotechnics, and Sinkhole. So they are easy to miss when starting a paper pauper collection, though I suppose you'd eventually come across them in pauper tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a list maintained of cards printed at common for paper, but not MTGO? If so, please provide link. If there is no such list but it turns out to be very few cards, then the answer should contain the list of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T18:30:57.853" Title="What paper pauper cards on not legal in MTGO" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-05T02:15:19.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25423" CreationDate="2015-08-04T21:58:13.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is nonsensical reasoning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any sort of team game you would be frequently doubling the opponents in to game (minus 530 or 730) for a long shot at a doubled set (of plus 100 or 200). To make matters worse, the double will just refine the ability of declarer to place defensive cards properly, which is already tuned by the 1NT opening. This is simply losing bridge.  Even at match-points, white against red, I cannot conceive of a game situation where I am not better off to try and get a plus by defending better than the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, captaincy in defense is a separate concern than in bidding. In defense, the captain is the partner who first figures how to maximize defensive tricks, and is most often the defender with the most points. Captain, once that is known, is entitled to lie with defensive signals while non-captain should only make &lt;em&gt;mandatory false cards&lt;/em&gt; and otherwise signal honestly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-08-04T21:58:13.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25441" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25479" CreationDate="2015-08-05T01:20:01.273" Score="1" ViewCount="440" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the &quot;whisper&quot; pilot of the tie phantom in x-wing, can someone please give an example of how the pilot ability works?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T01:11:11.793" Title="Whisper tie phantom example" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25446" CreationDate="2015-08-05T11:54:15.477" Score="2" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Jamaica each player selects a card with two actions on it. The left action is connected to the &lt;strong&gt;Morning&lt;/strong&gt; die and the right one to the &lt;strong&gt;Evening&lt;/strong&gt; die. So, basically there is somerhing that happens for every player in the morning and then later, in the evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way we played our first game was that we woukd resolve morning action of each player first, starting with the captain of the turn. Then, we would go to the evening phase and resolve second action of each player in the same order. That's how I understood the rules, since morning comes to all residents of Jamaica at the same time, not after one of them has already seen an evening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched a few playthroughs on the youtube and I noticed that this is not how other people are playing the game. So, I suspect I got this order of action rule wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;are both actions of the player to be resolved before moving to the next player? Is the Morning/Evening confusion just an effect of poor choise of wording?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;playing with our simultaneous Morning actions rule, how would you say it affects the gameplay? Does it give you more or less control of the course of the game? Does it make it more exciting? Increase battle frequency? Randomness?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that resolving Morning actions for all players seems more logical and it does minimise the downtime between player's involvement in the game, little as it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="2500" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T14:17:04.027" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T14:17:04.027" Title="What is proper order of resolving players actions?" Tags="|house-rules|jamaica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25444" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-05T12:00:16.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Jamaica&lt;/em&gt; is a pirate racing game. It involves roll &amp;amp; move mechanics, with some level of control from the player. The goal of the game is to acquire the most gold during a race. The game ends after one of the players finishes a lap around the island. The closer your ship is to the finish line, the more gold you get as a reward. It's a family game for 2-6 players with playtime between 30-60 minutes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-11-13T12:44:11.120" LastActivityDate="2018-11-13T12:44:11.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25445" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-05T12:00:16.020" Score="0" Body="Jamaica is a pirate racing game for 2-6 players with playtime between 30-60 minutes." OwnerUserId="2500" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T22:54:15.250" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T22:54:15.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25443" CreationDate="2015-08-05T12:55:03.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules seem very explicit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The captain turns his over and carries out the two actions&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;In turn, the other players do the same: they turn over their card and carry out the two actions&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't comment on what the effect of your house rule would be, but it clearly is not the intended way to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T12:55:03.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25367" CreationDate="2015-08-05T13:14:54.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Side kicks only have one level and can not be spun up or down. It is in the official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sidekicks are the .... character side. Sidekick characters have no powers, and only the one level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(edited one word)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13340" LastEditorUserId="13340" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T12:23:33.270" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T12:23:33.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2015-08-05T13:50:06.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When ever I play magic with my brother or friends, we use sticky notes.&#xA;You can write any abilities they might have just as long as you bring a pen. I use smaller sticky notes as ++ tokens too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method is occasionally used for feature matches (i.e., matches that get video coverage) at large tournaments, but only when a better alternative is not available. For example, there is no official marker for which mode is chosen for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=outpost+siege&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Outpost Siege&lt;/a&gt; (Dragons or Khans), so a sticky is used instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13342" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T14:22:38.700" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T14:22:38.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25450" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25452" CreationDate="2015-08-05T15:25:43.693" Score="3" ViewCount="2490" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say a player is level 6 and faces a level 10 monster, the player decides to play a one-shot +5 card, making the player level 11. After that card is played, another player enrages the monster making it level 15. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player in combat cannot defeat the enraged monster and is forced to run. Does the player have to discard the one-shot item, even though it was not used to defeat the monster?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems to make sense that the player must discard all one-shot items played even if they were unsuccessful. However I do not believe this was specifically covered in the rulebook.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13344" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:27:23.670" Title="Munchkin Combat Rules Clarification: Do you lose one-shot items played if later forced to run away" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25450" CreationDate="2015-08-05T15:31:24.510" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you play a card, that's it. It is no longer in your hand. You can't pick it back up and put it into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might get some sympathy from your friends if you start to play a card and then immediately change your mind. In that case, you never actually played the card. However, if one of your friends plays an Enrage, then the game has clearly progressed beyond the point where you can change your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T15:36:47.410" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T15:36:47.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25450" CreationDate="2015-08-05T15:37:12.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you play a card, that's it. It is no longer in your hand. You can't pick it back up and put it into your hand. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt; under Miscellaneous Questions (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. If I announce I'm going to do something, am I locked into that decision or can I change my mind? For instance, I was a Wizard and declared that I was going to fight a monster, but then the monster was enhanced further. Can I change my mind and Charm it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. You're NEVER locked into a final decision unless a card or rule says so. (&lt;strong&gt;However, there are no &amp;quot;take-backs&amp;quot; once you have played a card&lt;/strong&gt; or rolled a die.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start to play a card and then immediately change your mind, then you haven't actually played the card, and you aren't locked into your decision. However, if you play your card, and then one of your friends plays an Enrage, then the game has clearly progressed beyond the point where you can change your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:27:23.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25454" CreationDate="2015-08-05T16:48:36.653" Score="0" ViewCount="930" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=phantasmal%20dragon&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Dragon&lt;/a&gt; in play. My opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/m13/en/75.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; on it. In response, I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ktk/en/33.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cancel&lt;/a&gt; on the Unsummon. Do I sacrifice my Phantasmal Dragon because it was the target of the Unsummon, or does countering the Unsummon make it's targeting invalid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2960" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:54:36.563" Title="Does a countered spell still target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-05T17:45:38.080" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25453" CreationDate="2015-08-05T16:54:36.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was still targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose targets as part of the process of casting a spell, which has to happen before a spell can be countered. And the moment you have chosen something as a target, it has been targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T16:54:36.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25456" CreationDate="2015-08-05T17:00:34.377" Score="1" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just noticed rule 114.2 in the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.2 Only permanents are legal targets for spells and abilities, unless a spell or ability (a) specifies that it can target an object in another zone or a player, (b) targets an object that can't exist on the battlefield, such as a spell or ability, or (c) targets a zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it not true that every spell or ability that targets also says in the text of the spell or ability what things it must target? Is there a situation in which something is not a legal target, but would be if rule 114.2 didn't exist? It seems to be like that rule could just as easily say &quot;only creature cards in graveyards are legal targets for spells and abilities, unless a spell or ability specifies that it can target an object in another zone.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, legal targets are always defined on the spell or ability itself, so what does this rule mean? How are permanents any more &quot;targetable&quot; than anything else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T22:50:42.157" Title="What does it mean that only permanents are legal targets for spells or abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25455" CreationDate="2015-08-05T17:31:17.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're right that rule 114.2 has no effect, given the other rules and the cards which have been printed. (I did a cursory survey of what words/phrases follow &quot;target&quot; on existing cards and found nothing where this would apply. Could've missed something, but I'm reasonably confident.) But it's still useful, because it lets you understand what's targetable without having to read/remember all the other rules (notably 109.2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule would matter if hypothetically a spell or ability says &quot;target X&quot;, where X is some kind of object which could exist in multiple zones, not just the battlefield. The rule would then mean that &quot;target X&quot; (seemingly ambiguous, could be anywhere) actually means &quot;target X which is a permanent&quot;. (Most directly, this would apply to a spell that said &quot;target card&quot; or &quot;target object&quot; - fortunately there are no such cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are other rules which ensure that this situation never actually comes up. Notably, most cards explicitly target only permanents due to 109.2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2 If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think 114.2 is intended primarily as a reminder/redundant copy of 109.2, letting you know as you read the rules for targeting that most spells target only permanents, and those that target other things will say so fairly explicitly. If you've forgotten or don't know about 109.2, that can be a helpful reminder; you know that &quot;exile target creature&quot; means a creature on the battlefield from 114.2 as well, since it doesn't say it can target a creature anywhere else. And importantly, you don't have to have thought to read the rules about &quot;Objects&quot; in order to discover this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The comprehensive rules do contain a fair number of redundant reminder-ish  rules like this, presumably in order to improve clarity and help make sure you get the right idea even if you haven't quite read the entire rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-05T17:52:23.983" LastActivityDate="2015-08-05T17:52:23.983" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25455" CreationDate="2015-08-05T19:44:43.180" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a creature like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nectar%20Faerie&quot;&gt;Nectar Faerie&lt;/a&gt;. It says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{B}, {T}: Target Faerie or Elf gains lifelink until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we know that spells can have lifelink, as per &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soulfire%20Grand%20Master&quot;&gt;Soulfire Grand Master&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And we also know that there could be Faerie Tribal spells, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Faerie%20Trickery&quot;&gt;Faerie Trickery&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule exists to clarify things like... &amp;quot;You could not use Nectar Faerie to give Faerie Trickery lifelink because it doesn't specifically say you can&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T22:50:42.157" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T22:50:42.157" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25459" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25460" CreationDate="2015-08-06T01:24:32.877" Score="3" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a gate is closed, do matching monsters in Dunwich get removed? I'm aware the monsters in Dunwich do not count toward the monster limit  as the vortices handle that dynamic. I would think the gate closing does affect all monsters across both boards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T02:04:02.243" Title="Do Dunwich monsters get removed from gate closings?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25459" CreationDate="2015-08-06T02:04:02.243" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, monsters on the Dunwich board would also be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 18):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monsters and Closing Gates&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a gate is closed, all monsters in Arkham, the Sky,&#xA;and the Outskirts that have the same dimension symbol&#xA;(see “Monster Movement,” page 10) as the closed or&#xA;sealed gate are removed from the board and returned to&#xA;the cup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/DH_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dunwich Horror Rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Phrase “in Arkham” on Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that refer to “Arkham” also apply to locations and&#xA;areas in Dunwich.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus all monsters on the Dunwich board are also considered to be &amp;quot;in Arkham&amp;quot;, and would be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T02:04:02.243" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25461" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25464" CreationDate="2015-08-06T05:59:57.320" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jhessian%20Thief&quot;&gt;Jhessian Thief&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aqueous%20Form&quot;&gt;Aqueous Form&lt;/a&gt;, and it deals damage to my opponent, do I get to Scry 1 before or after I draw a card from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jhessian%20Thief&quot;&gt;Jhessian Thief&lt;/a&gt;'s ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13352" LastEditorUserId="13352" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T07:06:53.013" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T08:00:43.840" Title="Jhessian Thief and Aqueous Form" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25463" CreationDate="2015-08-06T06:06:16.140" Score="0" ViewCount="581" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature with two copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Thirst&quot;&gt;Eternal Thirst&lt;/a&gt; on it, and a creature my opponent control dies, do I get one or two +1/+1 counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13352" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T16:46:49.813" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T16:46:49.813" Title="Do multiple Eternal Thirst give a creature multiple copies of the same triggered ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-08-06T22:48:21.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25462" CreationDate="2015-08-06T06:16:28.197" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll get two counters. Each copy of Eternal Thirst grants the creature an independent triggered ability. The two abilities happen to be the same, but there are still two of them. They'll both trigger, both go on the stack (separately!), and each will add one counter as it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T06:16:28.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25461" CreationDate="2015-08-06T06:28:51.260" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aqueous%20Form&quot;&gt;Aqueous Form&lt;/a&gt;'s scry ability triggers when the creature attacks. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jhessian%20Thief&quot;&gt;Jhessian Thief&lt;/a&gt;'s draw ability triggers when it deals combat damage to a player. Thus Aqueous Form's ability will trigger and resolve in the declare attackers step. Jhessian Thief's ability won't trigger until later, in the combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13353" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T08:00:43.840" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T08:00:43.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25466" CreationDate="2015-08-06T13:22:20.470" Score="3" ViewCount="2006" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do the sacrifice triggers of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wake%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Wake the Dead&lt;/a&gt; happen at the same time, or do I get to stack them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, say I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wake%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Wake the Dead&lt;/a&gt; targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%2C%20Heretical%20Healer&quot;&gt;Liliana, Heretical Healer&lt;/a&gt; and another creature. Assuming no other creature dies until it's time to sacrifice the two, can I &amp;quot;save&amp;quot; Liliana into her Planeswalker form by sacrificing the other creature first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="8270" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T19:33:28.897" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:57:26.037" Title="Does &quot;sacrifice those creatures&quot; happen all at once?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25465" CreationDate="2015-08-06T14:04:24.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sacrifices happen all at once. You cannot sacrifice them sequentially and use the death of the other creatures to flip Liliana.  But it works a little differently than you think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the sacrificing happens all at once (similarly to how board wipe cards like Wrath of God destroy all creatures at once).  However, rule 603.6d applies here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6d&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous&#xA;  effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger&#xA;  conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like.&#xA;  However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially.&#xA;  Leaves-the-battlefield abilities, abilities that trigger when a&#xA;  permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all&#xA;  players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger&#xA;  specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger&#xA;  when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger&#xA;  when a player planeswalks away from a plane will trigger based on&#xA;  their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event&#xA;  rather than afterward. The game has to &quot;look back in time&quot; to&#xA;  determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Liliana's ability will trigger and go on the stack!  However, when the triggered ability resolves and tries to exile Liliana, she no longer exists on the battlefield and does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference see these other questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18269/what-happens-when-a-creature-with-whenever-a-creature-dies-dies-simultaneously&quot;&gt;What happens when a creature with “Whenever a creature dies” dies simultaneously with multiple other creatures?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/21007/does-the-2nd-ability-of-teysa-orzhov-scion-trigger-with-mass-destruction&quot;&gt;Does the 2nd ability of Teysa, Orzhov Scion trigger with mass destruction?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/22658/when-a-permanent-has-a-when-a-creature-dies-ability-and-gets-destroyed-at-the&quot;&gt;When a permanent has a “When a creature dies” ability, and gets destroyed at the same time as creatures, does that ability trigger?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T16:57:26.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25468" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:26:19.293" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Modern Art&lt;/em&gt; is a game where players put pieces of art up for auction in the hopes of making a profit. It was first published in English in 1996 by Mayfair Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is part of the Knizia auction trilogy, along with Medici and Ra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T22:48:45.383" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T22:48:45.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25469" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:26:19.293" Score="0" Body="Players put pieces of art up for auction in the hopes of making a profit. Part of the Knizia auction trilogy." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T18:16:57.810" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T18:16:57.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25470" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:29:05.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dungeon Command&lt;/em&gt; is a miniature wargame set in the Dungeons &amp;amp; Dragons universe and featuring multiple factions. All sets were created by Wizards of the Coast with the first being published in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T18:17:00.553" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T18:17:00.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25471" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:29:05.807" Score="0" Body="A miniature wargame set in the Dungeons &amp; Dragons universe and featuring multiple factions." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T22:48:32.970" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T22:48:32.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25472" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:31:11.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Scarborough Fair&lt;/em&gt; is a resource selling game in which players attempt to make a profit off of Parsley, Sage, Rosemary, and Thyme. It was first published by The Game Crafter, LLC in 2012.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T18:17:03.217" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T18:17:03.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25473" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-06T15:31:11.373" Score="0" Body="A resource selling game in which players attempt to make a profit off of Parsley, Sage, Rosemary, and Thyme." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T22:48:37.277" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T22:48:37.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27989" CreationDate="2015-08-06T16:01:20.727" Score="2" ViewCount="6373" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note: This is exactly the opposite question of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25435/what-pauper-cards-are-legal-in-mtgo-but-not-paper&quot;&gt;What pauper cards are legal in MTGO but not paper?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to collect most cards relevant to pauper. Because MTGO pauper is more popular than paper pauper, and because it is so easily available electronically, it is easy to find data and analysis on the most frequently used cards in pauper. I did this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that there are some cards (most notably Hymn to Tourach and High Tide) not available on MTGO but available as paper commons. Other popular pauper cards include Goblin Grenade, Desert, Pyrotechnics, and Sinkhole. They are easy to miss when starting a paper pauper collection, though I suppose you'd eventually come across them in pauper tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pauper format continues to grow in popularity so perhaps Wizards of the Coast will eventually develop official rulings on this. Some people feel that any common card in either MTGO or paper should be legal. However, for now, many local stores only allow paper commons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a list maintained of cards printed at common for paper, but not MTGO? If so, please provide link. If there is no such list but it turns out to be very few cards, then the answer should contain the list of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T16:22:01.577" Title="What pauper cards are legal in paper but not MTGO" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-online|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2015-08-06T16:38:55.240" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_Online&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, all sets since (and including) &quot;Invasion&quot; have been released on MTGO. This means the Masques, Urza, Tempest, Mirage, (most of) Ice Age, and Homelands blocks are not included in MTGO. In addition, core sets up until 6th edition and the Alpha, Beta, Unlimited, Arabian Nights, Antiquities, Revised, Legends, The Dark, and Fallen Empires expansions are also excluded from MTGO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rather than searching gatherer for these sets, it is better to exclude the sets that &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; in MTGO, because that will exclude cards from early sets that got re-printed in later sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of the release of Magic Origins, the following gatherer search should provide a list of all commons that were only printed in the sets before MTGO was released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;shortened url: &lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/O8OdKM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/O8OdKM&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;full url:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;set=+![%22Magic%20Origins%22]+![%22Seventh%20Edition%22]+![%22Eighth%20Edition%22]+![%22Ninth%20Edition%22]+![%22Tenth%20Edition%22]+![%22Magic%202010%22]+![%22Magic%202011%22]+![%22Magic%202012%22]+![%22Magic%202013%22]+![%22Magic%202014%20Core%20Set%22]+![%22Magic%202015%20Core%20Set%22]+![%22Invasion%22]+![%22Planeshift%22]+![%22Apocalypse%22]+![%22Odyssey%22]+![%22Torment%22]+![%22Judgment%22]+![%22Onslaught%22]+![%22Legions%22]+![%22Scourge%22]+![%22Mirrodin%22]+![%22Darksteel%22]+![%22Fifth%20Dawn%22]+![%22Champions%20of%20Kamigawa%22]+![%22Betrayers%20of%20Kamigawa%22]+![%22Saviors%20of%20Kamigawa%22]+![%22Ravnica:%20City%20of%20Guilds%22]+![%22Guildpact%22]+![%22Coldsnap%22]+![%22Time%20Spiral%22]+![%22Planar%20Chaos%22]+![%22Future%20Sight%22]+![%22Lorwyn%22]+![%22Morningtide%22]+![%22Shadowmoor%22]+![%22Eventide%22]+![%22Shards%20of%20Alara%22]+![%22Conflux%22]+![%22Alara%20Reborn%22]+![%22Zendikar%22]+![%22Worldwake%22]+![%22Rise%20of%20the%20Eldrazi%22]+![%22Scars%20of%20Mirrodin%22]+![%22Mirrodin%20Besieged%22]+![%22New%20Phyrexia%22]+![%22Innistrad%22]+![%22Dark%20Ascension%22]+![%22Avacyn%20Restored%22]+![%22Return%20to%20Ravnica%22]+![%22Gatecrash%22]+![%22Dragon%27s%20Maze%22]+![%22theros%22]+![%22Born%20of%20the%20Gods%22]+![%22Journey%20into%20Nyx%22]+![%22Khans%20of%20Tarkir%22]+![%22Fate%20Reforged%22]+![%22Dragons%20of%20Tarkir%22]&amp;amp;rarity=+[C]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit: Looking at the results, it looks like the query wasn't perfect. But it's a good start.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13338" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T16:38:55.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25204" CreationDate="2015-08-06T19:26:57.497" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another answer is both mechanics and flavor based, I think. I have yet to find confirmation on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It stops all mind control effects from the planeswalker. It gets exiled, and then returns under its Owner's control, not its controller's. Something really annoying to find out mid match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13357" LastActivityDate="2015-08-06T19:26:57.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25478" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:38:42.473" Score="0" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player takes control of your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chasm%20Skulker&quot;&gt;Chasm Skulker&lt;/a&gt;, then it dies while they control it, do they also get the tokens it creates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13360" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-06T23:51:06.387" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T04:28:29.263" Title="Who gets the tokens from Chasm Skulker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-10T09:31:12.953" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25477" CreationDate="2015-08-06T23:57:03.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they get the tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they control the Chasm Skulker, they also control its triggered ability (&amp;quot;When Chasm Skulker dies...&amp;quot;). And then since they control the ability, they're the ones who follow the instructions to put tokens onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.2a If an effect instructs a player to put an object onto the battlefield, that object enters the battlefield under that player’s control unless the effect states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.8. The controller of an activated ability on the stack is the player who activated it. &lt;strong&gt;The controller of a triggered ability on the stack (other than a delayed triggered ability) is the player who controlled the ability’s source when it triggered&lt;/strong&gt;, or, if it had no controller, the player who owned the ability’s source when it triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In combination with 603.6d which is a bit long but essentially says that for death triggers like this one, you look &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the creature died to see how the trigger works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d. Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane will &lt;strong&gt;trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward&lt;/strong&gt;. The game has to “look back in time” to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that they also &lt;em&gt;own&lt;/em&gt; the tokens, since the tokens entered the battlefield under their control. This doesn't generally matter, but just in case!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5a A token is both owned and controlled by the player under whose control it entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T04:28:29.263" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25441" CreationDate="2015-08-07T11:56:49.970" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/%22Whisper%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Whisper's&lt;/a&gt; pilot ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you perform an attack that hits, you may assign 1 focus token to&#xA;your ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per usual combat follows the following ten steps &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/1c/fc/1cfc62b7-6ce3-49a9-ae93-d21326cb9a45/x-wing_faq_v421.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from the FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (as of Dec 2016):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll your attack dice. (First using any abilities that modify the number of dice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify the attack dice. (Defender always modifies the attack dice first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Roll the Defence dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modify the Defence dice. (Attacker always modifies the defence dice first)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Compare results.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/x-wing/support/SWX01_XwingCoreRulebook_lowres.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; for step 6 include the following text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this step, players compare their dice results&#xA;to determine whether the defender was hit.&#xA;To determine whether the defender was hit, compare&#xA;the number of hits and critical hits and evades in the common&#xA;area. For each evade result, cancel (remove) one hit or critical hit&#xA;result from the attack roll. All hit results must be&#xA;canceled before any critical hit results may be canceled.&#xA;If there is at least one uncanceled hit or critical hit result&#xA;remaining, the defender is &lt;strong&gt;considered hit&lt;/strong&gt; (see page&#xA;13). If all hit and critical hit result are canceled, the attack&#xA;misses and the defender does not suffer any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, if there are uncanceled hits or critical hits, then Whisper gains a focus token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the attack &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; a miss, and is also the first attack from a secondary weapon with the ability &amp;quot;Perform this attack twice&amp;quot;, then the second attack would occur now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;7&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the attack &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; a miss and is also the first attack from a secondary weapon with the ability &amp;quot;Perform this attack twice&amp;quot;, then the second attack would occur now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;8&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use any abilities that occur &amp;quot;after attacking&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;after defending&amp;quot;. The player with initiative uses theirs first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use any abilities that occur &amp;quot;after attacking&amp;quot;, or &amp;quot;after defending&amp;quot; that trigger an extra attack. The player with initiative uses theirs first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove any destroyed ships, accounting for the simultaneous attack rule (ships destroyed by another ship with the same pilot skill, still get their turn to attack).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all ships have had an opportunity to attack, you move on to the end phase, when all focus and evade tokens are removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whisper with &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Veteran_Instincts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veteran Instincts&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Gunner&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gunner&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Advanced_Cloaking_Device&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Advanced Cloak&lt;/a&gt; attacks at PS 9, before &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Tycho_Celchu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tycho Celchu&lt;/a&gt; at PS 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whisper has an evade token, from having taken evade as it's action during the activation phase. Tycho Celchu also took the evade action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whisper declares it's target as Tycho Celchu; Tycho is within Whisper's arc and at range 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whisper rolls 4 dice, and gets Miss, Eye, Hit &amp;amp; Critical Hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No modifications to the attack dice are taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tycho rolls 3 Defence dice, and gets Blank, Eye &amp;amp; Evade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tycho uses his evade token to add one evade to his defence dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We compare the total of two evades from the on the defence dice and evade token with the hit and critical hit symbols on the attack dice. Regular hits must be canceled before critical hits, but as all hits are canceled this doesn't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of Whisper's attack dice are canceled. The attack was a miss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;All dice were canceled and no damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advanced Cloaking device triggers, giving Whisper the &lt;em&gt;option&lt;/em&gt; to take a free cloak action, which Whisper doesn't take as it would prevent the second attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whisper's pilot ability doesn't trigger, as the criteria wasn't met (this attack was a miss).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gunner triggers, giving Whisper a second attack. That attack occurs now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whisper's second attack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We declare Tycho as the target again - still at Range 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whisper rolls 4 attack dice and gets Miss, Hit, Hit &amp;amp; Critical Hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No modifications to the attack dice are taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tycho rolls 3 defence dice and gets Blank, Evade &amp;amp; Evade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No modifications to the defence dice are taken (Tycho no longer has his evade token).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comparing the evades with the hits, we cancel the two regular hits on Whisper's dice, resulting in one Critical Hit symbol remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attack was a hit as there is at least one uncanceled hit or critical hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Tycho takes one critical hit, which either removes one shield or if he has no remaining shield tokens deals him a face up damage card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Advanced Cloaking device triggers again, giving Whisper the option to take a free cloak action; the option is taken this time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly Whisper's Pilot ability triggers as this is a hit, and Whisper gains a focus token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gunner cannot trigger, both because this is a hit, and because it has already triggered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We now check to see if any ships have been destroyed and remove them (unless they also had the same pilot skill and lower initiative than Whisper).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whisper's turn to attack is now over&lt;/strong&gt;, leaving Whisper with an evade token, a focus token and it's cloak active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We proceed to any other ship's turn to attack in order of descending PS, with ties partially broken by Initiative as per usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it had been &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Jake_Farrell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jake&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Veteran_Instincts&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Veteran Instincts&lt;/a&gt; instead of Tycho in the example (who would then have had the same PS as Whisper) but Whisper had initiative then even if Whisper had killed Jake, Jake would still get an attack, but Whisper would have his focus token and Cloaking device up. If Jake had initiative, then Jake would have attacked first before Whisper could activate his focus token and cloaking device, though Whisper would still have it's evade token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;N.B.&lt;/strong&gt; This exact set up with Whisper is partly chosen here to highlight some interactions with the rules (such as 'hit' interacting with gunner), and also because this particular set up on Whisper has been a popular and successful set up in tournaments - at least prior to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/9d/df/9ddf0774-9bbc-4eab-89bf-01a9c4ef7eca/x-wing-faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;nerf to cloaking&lt;/a&gt; - and could thus be considered a fairly likely situation (although I have no idea as to the presence or absence of Tycho or Jake in tournament lists).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T01:11:11.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25261" CreationDate="2015-08-07T14:22:51.217" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with such many players, especially when some of them are playing for the first time, we have one person holding one part of the box and collecting all the voting cards - when someone is ready he put it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Box is usually hold above the heads of all other sitting people (when playing with so many players there always is someone not sitting by the table so it is not the problem), to noone see the the answers. Usually the person holding the box is the one checking all the answers then, and tracking the score - it is more easy to sort and check all the voting cards in the box. Many of the players usually don't want to know the exact scoring mechanisms, so it is fine for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One disadvantage of this solution is when people stars to throw their voting cards to the box, inside of putting them gently. If they are doing so, sometimes, the pegs are moving out - anyway you just need to tell people to be more gentle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T14:22:51.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2015-08-07T19:58:46.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a Chrome app that appears to do what you are looking for. It's called Scorekeeper. You can find it on the Chrome Web Store by searching &quot;Scorekeeper&quot; or by clicking here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/scorekeeper/ognaddcodlklfjfbaghkkoipibeniocp/related?hl=en-US&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/scorekeeper/ognaddcodlklfjfbaghkkoipibeniocp/related?hl=en-US&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13365" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T19:58:46.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2844" CreationDate="2015-08-07T20:51:38.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deal 9 cards to each player, leaving the last two face down. (These leftovers are called the &quot;widow&quot; in some games.) That means that a complete set of 9 can't be completed for two of the sets in the game. A player can call a corner while holding 8 cards if he willing to gamble that the 9th is out of play. After corner is called, check to see if the 9th is in the widow. If it is, the score is as normal. If it's not, the person holding it gets a bonus (+20) and the person calling the false corner gets a penalty (-20). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always played with spoons. In the middle of the table, one fewer spoons than the number of players. Once somebody gets a corner he quietly picks up one spoon. As they notice, other players pick one up until there are none left, leaving one player out. Everyone with a spoon gets 20 points. Note that it's excellent form to continue to pretend to trade after you've picked up your spoon, leaving the unobservant desperately trying to improve his hand while everyone else snickers behind their cards. Double hilarity if two players continue to trade with one spoon left on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13366" LastActivityDate="2015-08-07T20:51:38.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:41:15.060" Score="2" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Escape: The Curse of the Temple, the rules say if you are playing 1-2 players to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;insert the exit tile in the middle of the draw pile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the base game (I'm assuming expansions maybe add to this pile), there are 15 tiles left at this point after putting 2 of them next to the entrance. Where does the exit tile go, above the 8th tile or below it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:33:29.447" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:33:29.447" Title="Where do I insert the exit tile in a 1-2 player game" Tags="|escape-the-curse-of-the-temple|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27725" CreationDate="2015-08-07T21:44:15.987" Score="5" ViewCount="61" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules say, for a player who escape, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...he can give one of his dice to any adventurer still inside the temple. This adventurer may use the die immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean the person can use the face value of the die and use it for that current turn, then continue to use that die to roll future turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: the best link to the rules I could find &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jumbo.eu/media/products/assets/manuals/d1a46a58-fc62-54ed-a492-4505f595ef71.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:32:59.710" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:32:59.710" Title="If I escape and give my die to an adventurer, can he use the rolled value immediately?" Tags="|escape-the-curse-of-the-temple|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-08T03:19:59.993" Score="0" ViewCount="527" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Action card &quot;Draw two, play two&quot; says to draw two cards and play them. Then you're supposed to continue your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But isn't your turn already over? Because you've already drawn a card and played the action card and completed the action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13371" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T12:17:07.663" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:34:02.653" Title="is your turn over after playing an action card and doing what the card says" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25487" CreationDate="2015-08-08T03:35:48.230" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fluxx what you do on your turn all depends on what the rules currently are so there is no one clear answer that can be given. If there is a rule in play that requires you to play multiple cards then the card you are talking about counts as just 1 of your actions and you need to continue, if there is not a multiple card play rule in effect then you are probably done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T03:35:48.230" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2015-08-08T16:39:02.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Climber: He may also take &#xA;one other player with him whenever he moves. &#xA;Navigator: The Navigator may move another player up to 3 &#xA;unblocked tiles per action, including tunnels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Navigators power is to move a player.  This may be up to three spaces.  If the word move is to mean a single journey then I would say no, the two are not saved.  If on the other hand it is a series of steps then it is OK to do so.  The rules do not cover this usage well enough to be clear about it.  My guess is no.  With this kind of usage the Navigators power can also be used throughout the turn in 1-3 tile steps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ex: Act 1a: Via the Navigators power) Move Climber to Well one tile. Act 2: Navigator meets climber (1 move). Act 3: Navigator reveals well. Act 1b: Move Climber and Navigator to Tunnel (second Climber tile move).  Act 4: Navigator clears one sand.   1c: Move Climber to another tunnel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind the rule: Climber: He may also take &#xA;one other player with him whenever he moves.  Is a point A to point B reference like the jet pack, which should not allow for the complete redistribution of the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13378" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T16:39:02.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25495" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25496" CreationDate="2015-08-08T17:52:04.483" Score="2" ViewCount="4472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three guilds (Workers, Shipowners, Craftsmens) award VPs for resource cards. Also some commerce cards (e.g., Haven) award coins and VPs for resource cards. Do you include Board resources in the count, or only cards? The instructions say &quot;cards,&quot; but I'm making sure they are specifically restricting this, and not using the term more broadly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13379" LastEditorUserId="13379" LastEditDate="2015-08-08T18:25:09.283" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T19:41:54.397" Title="7 Wonders: Do board resources (brown and gray) count for VPs when counting guild and commerce points?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25495" CreationDate="2015-08-08T18:53:33.437" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guilds in question specifically award points for cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Workers Guild: 1 victory point for each brown card present in the neighboring cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shipowners Guild: 1 victory point for each brown, gray and purple card in your city. &lt;em&gt;Clarification: the Shipowners Guild counts towards this total.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Craftmans Guild: 2 victory points for each gray card present in the neighboring cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the last sentence in the base game Rulebook makes it clear this only refers to actual cards. [Emphasis added]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Clarification: Resources produced by boards &lt;strong&gt;are NOT considered as cards&lt;/strong&gt; (Vineyard, Bazaar, Guilds, ...).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T19:41:54.397" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25455" CreationDate="2015-08-08T19:31:59.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of redundant rules I call them &amp;quot;reminder rules&amp;quot;. 114.2 reminds you that 109.2 applies when targeting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn’t include the word “card,” “spell,” “source,” or “scheme,” it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2a If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes the word “card” and the name of a zone, it means a card matching that description in the stated zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2b If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes the word “spell,” it means a spell matching that description on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.2c If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes the word “source,” it means a source matching that description—either a source of an ability or a source of damage—in any zone. See rule 609.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the purpose or reminder rules are three-fold. By providing a single reference point,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it removes any doubt about how the rules interact in a given situation,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it documents emergent properties that aren't always obvious, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it gives a single rule to reference for common errors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T19:31:59.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25499" CreationDate="2015-08-08T19:40:24.427" Score="1" ViewCount="85" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the players begin rolling in Escape: The Curse of the Temple, do they all pick up the dice they want to roll and roll all at once, then wait for everyone to be ready to roll before all rolling again, or does everyone just roll as fast as they can on their own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:33:26.710" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:33:26.710" Title="Do players make rolls with the dice simultaneously or just make a mad dash of individual rolls?" Tags="|escape-the-curse-of-the-temple|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25498" CreationDate="2015-08-08T19:49:58.413" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very first paragraph of the rules answers your question. [Emphasis in original]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Escape&lt;/strong&gt; is a real-time board game. Instead of playing the game in rounds, each player rolls his five dice as &lt;strong&gt;quickly&lt;/strong&gt; and as &lt;strong&gt;often&lt;/strong&gt; as he can without waiting for his teammates!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see this in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rG2znnjdKYQ&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game play video&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[I just picked the first video returned by Google. I haven't reviewed it for quality. I set the start time to a spot where the player on the right rolls dice twice in the time the player on the left rolls the dice once.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-08-08T19:49:58.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25500" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T01:22:27.500" Score="1" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today me and 3 friends were playing Magic, we are all new to it (One guy taught my friend, my friend taught me and his girlfriend, I taught my sister, besides the first guy thats who was playing)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend pulled a card that said he got a 1/1 token on his creature for every creature card in everyones graveyard (I don't remember the name sorry!)&#xA;So a few turns later I died (Serious mana screw, I never even played a card besides 2 mana, because I couldn't, and one got destroyed by another card, I got killed by multiplie attacks by a tarra stomper xD) so I picked my cards up and started shuffling for when they all 3 finished (I knew it would be a little bit but what else would I do?)&#xA;So my friend pulled a card from his deck to replay a card from the graveyard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So he pulled the one to create a 1/1 token on his creature for every creature in the grave yard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is were the question comes in&#xA;Do the creatures in my graveyard (They got there when my hand became full, like I said I never actually played a card not that that part matters) still count even though I died?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We assumed they did and I apologized for messing up, but then jus now I decided to look it up and see if they count&#xA;I can't find an answer so Im asking&#xA;Sorry if this is a dumb question I've only played 8 or so games before and never ran into this problem so I thought it would be good to know for the future&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure Im dead but if I'm playing with random people at a shop and I die and need to leave I would feel pretty bad picking up my graveyard if they should be able to use it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also what about enchantments and such on their creatures that I put there? Does my hand go to the graveyard? What about cards I have down in use / creatures on my battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Someone marked this as a possible duplicate but one thing wasn't really answered in the post&#xA;Does my graveyard still effect anything? I didn't see it referenced in the other post, sorry if Im missing something&#xA;The other post pretty much answered all my other questions, thanks.&#xA;Also add on question, if thats okay (I realize this is not really a forum so Im sorry if adding another question isn't acceptable) where are the full list of rules that person was quoting from in their answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T00:04:12.700" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T00:04:12.700" Title="Magic the Gathering, when a player dies what happens to their cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-08-09T05:43:16.620" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25501" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T01:57:04.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1098" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Leader &lt;strong&gt;Maecenas&lt;/strong&gt; allows to build Leaders for free (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt;, page 6&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As soon as Maecenas enters play, his controlling player can recruit all of his or her future Leaders for free (during the &lt;em&gt;Recruitment&lt;/em&gt; Phase), without having to pay their coin cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Wonder &lt;strong&gt;Rome (B)&lt;/strong&gt; allows in its second and third stage to build additional Leaders (&lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt;, page 12):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The second stage is worth 3 victory points and the player can immediately put in play an extra Leader (by paying 2 coins less than its printed cost).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The third stage is worth 3 victory points and the player can immediately put in play an extra Leader (by paying 2 coins less than its printed cost).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the Rome (B) player has recruited Maecenas, can the additional Leaders (from the 2nd/3rd stage) be built for free?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wonder because it says &quot;during the Recruitment Phase&quot;, but when building the wonder stages, you are not in the Recruitment Phase, are you? So this would mean that Maecenas’ effect doesn’t work for the extra Leaders, unless this is an oversight, or am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T12:39:00.910" Title="Maecenas and Rome (B): are the extra Leaders also free?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25724" CreationDate="2015-08-09T02:06:24.287" Score="2" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have recruited the Leader &lt;strong&gt;Ramses&lt;/strong&gt; and the Babel &lt;strong&gt;tile 23&lt;/strong&gt; is active, can you build Guilds for free, or do you have to pay coins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leader Ramses: (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leaders&lt;/em&gt;, page 6&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As soon as Ramses enters play, the player can build all of his or her Guilds for free, without having to pay their resource costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Babel tile 23 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt;, page 5&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The construction of […] Guilds (purple cards) via resources is forbidden. Their construction requires a number of coins equal to the number of resources present in their construction cost. […]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:13:29.537" Title="Ramses and Babel tile 23: are Guilds free or do you have to pay coins?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-babel|7-wonders-leaders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25508" CreationDate="2015-08-09T04:30:21.453" Score="1" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;When placing the beetle, can he be placed on top of another piece as long as he doesn't touch an opponent's piece? The rules don't appear to prohibit this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T06:44:16.893" Title="Can the beetle start on top of the hive?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25505" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25517" CreationDate="2015-08-09T05:39:46.610" Score="2" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Partner opens 1NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a 4 carder Spade and a 5 carder Heart, what do you do?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;And with a 5 carder Spade and a 4 carder Heart?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, should you use Stayman, Jacoby Transfers, or some other convention?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T21:52:08.253" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T15:45:44.733" Title="Bridge: Which transfer do you use with both majors - one 5 carder and another 4 carder" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T06:04:12.587" Score="1" ViewCount="21217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am an amateur player of carrom and I have seen in tournaments players striking backward their striker to pocket the coins behind the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13382" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T13:00:34.020" LastActivityDate="2019-01-30T09:13:14.413" Title="Can I strike backward directly?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25507" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25509" CreationDate="2015-08-09T06:12:36.833" Score="5" ViewCount="9158" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a card is played face down for some reason, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guardian%20Shield-Bearer&quot;&gt;Guardian Shield-Bearer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Megamorph 3G (You may cast this card face down as a 2/2 creature for 3. Turn it face up any time for its megamorph cost and put a +1/+1 counter on it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Guardian Shield-Bearer is turned face up, put a +1/+1 counter on another creature you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I play Guardian face down, and then I get a card that says I can put a +1/+1 counter on one of my creatures. I choose to put it on my face-down Guardian to make it a 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I turn Guardian up, does it lose the +1/+1 counter, since it is transforming (or rather, morphing) into a new creature? What about enchantments or other things attached to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What type of creature is the 2/2 when it is face down? Just a &amp;quot;Creature&amp;quot; type creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="29907" LastEditDate="2019-12-02T18:41:50.703" LastActivityDate="2019-12-02T18:41:50.703" Title="Does turning a card face up cause it to lose any counters it had on it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25504" CreationDate="2015-08-09T06:44:16.893" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't. It has to be placed like all other pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NB&lt;/strong&gt; When it is first placed, the Beetle is placed in the same way as all the other pieces. It cannot be placed directly on top of the hive, even though it can move there later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gen42.com/downloads/rules/Hive_Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;bottom of page 5&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T06:44:16.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25507" CreationDate="2015-08-09T08:48:11.410" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any enchantments or counters that were on the creature when it was face down will remain when it is turned face up. The creature never changed zones. It is still the same object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Morphs and Manifests have the &quot;Creature&quot; card type, but no subtypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.31a, 702.36a It becomes a 2/2 face-down creature card with no text, no name, no subtypes, and no mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it gets turned face up, it just regains its normal characteristics, but it is otherwise the same object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.36e Any time you have priority, you may turn [a morphed card] face up. The morph effect on it ends, and it regains its normal characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=222124&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Transform&lt;/a&gt; means something special and is not what happens with morphed cards. I like to say &quot;morph&quot; and &quot;turn it face up&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T13:06:58.033" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T13:06:58.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25513" CreationDate="2015-08-09T13:21:28.540" Score="1" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of this game was a word I'm not familiar with, probably an italian word, starting with a C and around 8 to 12 letters long (it wasn't Carcassonne!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal of the game was to conquer 3 adjacent or any 5 territories in Italy by going to war with your fellow players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players would have a hand of 10 cards. The cards had point values that, when played, determined whose army was most powerful that round. Some of the cards were yellow, some red. Some of the cards were: Cardinal, Spring, Winter, Female Hero (ala Joan of Arc?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13385" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T15:18:14.220" Title="Identify this strategic, war board &amp; card game about Italy (not Carcassonne)?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25511" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T13:44:21.903" Score="5" ViewCount="956" Body="&lt;p&gt;On Friday, my local store said the mulligan rule being tested at PTORI (Before starting the game, any player who mulligans to less than 7 gets to scry 1) had been implemented into the game proper. But there's been no announcements on wizards.com to that effect, and no source hosting the comprehensive rules reflects this in 103.4. The TO just said that &quot;mtgsalvation confirmed it&quot;, but their wiki doesn't, their front page doesn't, and the last relevant forum post I found was from mid-July, before the pro tour actually happened. I know it's looking likely that it'll stick around, but they were pretty clear that only PTORI would be affected for the time being. Am I missing an announcement somewhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13386" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T16:22:30.650" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T16:22:30.650" Title="Is the scry mulligan rule implemented in the rules at large yet?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mulligans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25511" CreationDate="2015-08-09T14:36:13.680" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new mulligan rule was &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/news/new-mulligan-rule-starting-battle-zendikar-prereleases-2015-08-20&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;officially added&lt;/a&gt; starting with Battle for Zendikar prereleases on September 26-27, 2015 (or October 9-12, 2015 for Magic Online).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of this question being asked, it was definitely not a rule yet. In fact the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/latest-developments/mulligans-2015-08-07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Latest Developments&lt;/a&gt; column on August 7 said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We will be looking at both how the Pro Tour played out, as well as the reactions from the players regarding the rule. I don't know when we will have a decision based on this, but we hope to have new information fairly soon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anything official will surely be on the official site, so I wouldn't bother digging on forums or anything - things like this happen in official ways, not just via rumors and forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T18:27:26.053" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T18:27:26.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25510" CreationDate="2015-08-09T15:18:14.220" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/112/condottiere&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Condottiere&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Board Game Geek's description: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The object of Condottiere is to acquire four connected provinces in renaissance Italy. To do this players auction off different provinces on the board and bid on these provinces with a hand of cards representing mercenaries, seasons, scarecrows, and political figures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T15:18:14.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-09T19:18:39.427" Score="6" ViewCount="2202" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many books, including Goren, recommend leading K from both a AK (or AKQ) and also a KQ.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why an ambiguous lead like this? Why not A from AK and K from KQ?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a trump contract. Partner leads K from a non-trump suit. I have a void in that suit. Do I ruff assuming it's from a KQ or do I discard assuming it's from a AK?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T22:49:43.507" Title="Bridge: Opening lead from AK - why K instead of A" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25505" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:19:43.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common answer to this problem is called Smolen, which applies when you have game-forcing values. In Smolen, you start with Stayman. If partner shows a 4-card major, proceed as normal with that suit as trumps. If partner denies a major, you bid your 4-card major at the three level. Opener now chooses a strain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With less than game-forcing values, your choices really depend on what other bids mean in your system, but the following is usually workable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 5 spades, 4 hearts, and invitational values, bid Stayman and rebid 2S after opener's 2D.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 5 hearts, 4 spades, and invitational values, transfer to hearts and rebid 2S after partner accepts the transfer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With 5-4 and less than invitational values, consider using &quot;Crawling Stayman.&quot; This is a rebid of 2H after 1NT-2C-2D, and it shows a weak hand with the majors. Opener passes or corrects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:19:43.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25515" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:30:19.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;One reason to lead K from AK is that it's actually &lt;em&gt;less&lt;/em&gt; ambiguous. Sometimes it is sensible to lead an unsupported ace to see dummy and partner's signal before deciding how to proceed with the defense. For instance, opening leader may have Ax in a side suit, trying to get a ruff if partner encourages to show the king. It's almost never right to lead from Kx when partner hasn't bid that suit since it it's much more likely to blow a trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, partner rarely has a void when you lead from KQxxx, and even if partner &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have a void, it's almost never best defense for partner to ruff the K when it hasn't been covered by the A -- ruffing the K causes declarer to play low, so the Q hasn't been established as a winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T21:30:19.200" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25521" CreationDate="2015-08-09T21:31:26.000" Score="0" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if anyone noticed I've been asking a few random unrelated questions since last night&#xA;Im new to magic and I bought a box of bulk common cards to get started (Theres been a few I added to my main deck, but mostly Im using it to learn how the game works.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Shrieker&quot;&gt;Lightning Shrieker&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it says &amp;quot;At the begining of the end step, Lightning Shrieker's owner shuffles it into their library.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this take effect if it died or was exiled? And if so what can keep it from being returned to the library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I actually did find an answer to this question (But it was on tumblr so I don't really trust they know, because of what I say next) and they said if it dies it does mot return to the library, and it can only be returned from the battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main reason I don't trust this is because while reading my bulk of cards I've seen a good number of cards that say &amp;quot;Return (Creature name) to (Place) from battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this one does not say &amp;quot;from battlefield&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sorry I should have been more clear, I know it doesn't activate by being exiled or destroyed, my question was when I get to the end step does the trigger still activate from exile or the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="13380" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T22:20:01.723" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T22:29:32.120" Title="Does Lighting Shriekers ability activate if it dies or was exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25522" CreationDate="2015-08-09T22:02:41.917" Score="0" ViewCount="1140" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I attack with a 4/4 and am blocked with a 4/4&#xA;Can I play an instant before combat damage, Im pretty sure I can so&#xA;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ride%20Down&quot;&gt;Ride Down&lt;/a&gt; to destroy their blocker&#xA;Does my attacking creature still take 4 damage and die?&#xA;I know the damage won't go to the player (Unless I was a 5/4 because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ride%20Down&quot;&gt;Ride Down&lt;/a&gt; also grants trample) because my creature is still technically blocked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But does it still take damage from the destroyed creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T22:24:07.310" Title="Does attacking creature take damage when playing instant &quot;Ride Down&quot; before combat damage but after blockers declared" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25519" CreationDate="2015-08-09T22:12:15.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no conditional on that effect, except &quot;At the beginning of the end step&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roughly speaking, any effect is going to apply only when the card is in play, &quot;on the battlefield&quot;, unless the effect specifies otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the effect takes place when it says it does, roughly at the end of the current turn.  Not when it dies or is exiled.  Since the card has Haste, in effect, you get a 5/5 attacker with flying &amp;amp; trample for one turn only that then gets shuffled back into your deck.  Unless you have some other way to tinker with the mechanics, that effect will always take place at the end of any turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify further, your tumblr information is correct; if it dies, and is in the graveyard at end of turn, the effect will not apply, and it will stay in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something that can exile the card and then bring it back the next turn would, temporarily, circumvent the effect, if you want to keep it in play. (I thought there was a Blink card that would do this, but cannot find it now).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastEditorUserId="10399" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T22:29:32.120" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T22:29:32.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25520" CreationDate="2015-08-09T22:24:07.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once blockers are declared, any player can then play instants or effects before any damage is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your particular case, no, your creature does not take damage.  It would only take damage if the blocking creature was still in play, and Ride Down destroys it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are incorrect on the other portion however.  The Trample keyword lets any damage above and beyond what's applied to the blocker be applied to the player.  Since there is no longer a blocker to apply damage to, all attacking damage is applied to the player you attacked.  Your creature would still be considered &quot;blocked&quot; for the purposes of other cards, but all damage would get through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T22:24:07.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25523" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26877" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:00:40.413" Score="3" ViewCount="1207" Body="&lt;p&gt;Terror effects are applied after a roll when you cannot complete a task and at least one of the dice shows a terror icon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to avoid the terror effect by 'securing' the terror die on a spell (assuming no other dice show a terror icon), effectively just failing the task and having to discard a die? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does the terror effect apply immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: After reading the following in the errata, I'm leaning more towards my understanding that they are no longer in the pool and hence do not play a part unless I chose to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spells that hold dice are cast after a player’s roll, not before. The&#xA;  player looks at the roll, then, if he wishes to save a particular die,&#xA;  casts the spell and places the die on the spell. The ‘held’ die&#xA;  remains on the spell card until used to complete a task or until&#xA;  removed (as described below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T01:01:42.430" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:01:04.763" Title="Elder Sign Terror Effect Timing" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25526" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:01:10.487" Score="0" ViewCount="1113" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've read a few cards that say this and only just now notices while reading &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hunt%20the%20Weak&quot;&gt;Hunt the Weak&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says specifically &amp;quot;Each deals damage equal to its power to the other&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does a +1/+1 counter add to its power?&#xA;Basically my question is do you use the power printed on the card, or the power that creature has in normal combat?&#xA;And does trample have any effect to the player whose creature Im targeting if their creature can't take all the damage? Or is that only when a creature is blocking my creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T23:25:09.973" Title="Creature fights target creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25523" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:14:34.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the rulebook as written, the terror effect directly results from the failed task roll with the terror result showing.  It takes effect before a die is discarded due to the failed roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would presume by that wording that they are trying to prevent exactly what you are describing - avoiding the terror by discarding the die.  I can't find any errata to clarify the situation.  There is clearly a gap in the timing, otherwise adding dice previously saved couldn't work and once a roll succeeds by that method the terror doesn't apply. Still, once a roll is clearly failed, the terror has to be done before you proceed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules on focusing and assistance are clearer.  Although they save a result and remove a die from the pool, they do so only after a failed roll has already been dealt with.  Since spells can be played anytime on your own turn, this introduces a grey area.  Still, there is nothing in the rules that states a failure can be avoided by removing dice from it, and a terror is part of the failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting it a better way since I ran a few searches - you generated a terror on a failed roll.  Why would you not suffer an effect simply because you're saving the dice for later?  That just confirms you rolled it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my answer would be, unless you can by action change a failed roll into a successful roll, you would have to go through with the terror effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastEditorUserId="10399" LastEditDate="2015-08-09T23:40:38.963" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T23:40:38.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25524" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:25:09.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are overthinking it. Two creatures fighting each other as result of a spell or ability means exactly what it says, and nothing more. Power and Toughness of a creature are always one certain value, namely the printed base value plus all applicable modifiers. Two creatures fighting each other is NOT combat, and combat-related abilities don't matter. The damage they deal to each other is NOT combat damage, but simply damage with the respective creature as the source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-08-09T23:25:09.973" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25530" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:52:42.297" Score="1" ViewCount="2007" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bellowing%20Tanglewurm&quot;&gt;Bellowing Tanglewurm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dwynen%2C%20Gilt-Leaf%20Daen&quot;&gt;Dwynen, Gilt-Leaf Daen&lt;/a&gt; have abilities like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other green creatures you control [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other Elf creatures you control [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do abilities like these only affect creatures that were already on the battlefield? Will creatures that enter the battlefield later also get the effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature with the ability dies, will the effect remain on the creatures that had it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T17:12:09.047" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T17:12:09.047" Title="Does 'Other creatures you control have intimidate' affect new creatures brought out?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25529" CreationDate="2015-08-09T23:58:47.843" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swift%20Kick&quot;&gt;Swift Kick&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So lets say I have a 1/1 and another 1/1 on the field&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a 3/3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with 1/1, and they block with 3/3&#xA;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swift%20Kick&quot;&gt;Swift Kick&lt;/a&gt; on my unused 1/1 making it a 2/1 and target their 3/3 with it (Because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swift%20Kick&quot;&gt;Swift Kick&lt;/a&gt; says I can, I know you can't declare a new attacker after your first ones)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would their 3/3 kill my 2/1, then lose the 2 damage and kill my 1/1 and live&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or&#xA;Would their 3/3 kill my 2/1, and take 2 damage, and kill my 1/1 and take one damage and die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:03:28.687" Title="Could I double team a blocker with Swift Kick?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25528" CreationDate="2015-08-10T00:03:28.687" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second one. Damage that you do to a creature lasts until the end of a turn, and then it wears off. So you can do it 2 damage first with Swift Kick, then after that do it 1 damage with normal combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:03:28.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25527" CreationDate="2015-08-10T00:14:20.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will affect all your creatures for as long as you control it; whether those creatures were there when you first cast it or not. Your creatures will lose the bonus as soon as you stop controlling it. This is called a static ability, which generates a continuous effect. It's described in detail in this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.2. Static abilities create continuous effects, some of which are prevention effects or replacement effects. These effects are active as long as the permanent with the ability remains on the battlefield and has the ability, or as long as the object with the ability remains in the appropriate zone, as described in rule 112.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:14:20.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25533" CreationDate="2015-08-10T00:19:34.297" Score="1" ViewCount="43674" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay so when I was looking up the answer to a different question I had I found this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You assign 2 damage on the first target, but he's not dead yet until you assign all 5 damage that you have. So all the remaining creature are still 2/2 so you are forces to a assign at least 2 damages on each so assign 2 damage on the second in the row, and 1 damage to the 3rd creature for a grand total of 5 damages. The forth creature receive no damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if this is correct, this is something I didn't know about blocking multiple creatures (I'm fairly new to the game and have never actually had it happen, only been reading about the fact that you can double block)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if I attack with 6/6, and am blocked with 4/4 and 2/3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how I thought it worked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I choose order of 4/4 then 2/3&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;So 4/4 dies because I did 6 damage, 6/6 took 4&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2/3 dies because I did 6 damage, 6/6 took 2&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My 6/6 died because it took a total of 6 damage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is that correct? Or is it like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attack with 6/6&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blocked by 4/4 and 2/3&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Order of 4/4 then 2/3, 4 damage and 2 damage (Total of 6, my creatures attack number)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4/4 dies because it took 4 damage, 6/6 takes 4 damage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2/3 lives because it took 2 damage, 6/6 take 2 damage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;My 6/6 dies because it took a total of 6 damage&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/content/forum-topic/2363271&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;community.wizards.com&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="13380" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T00:38:43.260" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:38:43.260" Title="Assigning damage to multiple blockers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25531" CreationDate="2015-08-10T00:29:35.630" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The latter. Each creature deals damage equal to its power to all blockers, attackers and defending players or planeswalkers, not to each of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simultaneously,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 6/6 deals 4 damage to the 4/4&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 6/6 deals 2 damage to the 2/3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 4/4 deals 4 damage to the 6/6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2/3 deals 2 damage to the 6/6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortly after, when State-Based Actions are performed, the following happens simultaneously:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 6/6 is destroyed for having damage equal to or exceeding its toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 4/4 is destroyed for having damage equal to or exceeding its toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That's assuming the minimum damage is dealt to each creature. You can choose to &quot;overkill&quot; if you so desire, but it's rarely helpful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T00:34:45.320" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:34:45.320" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25531" CreationDate="2015-08-10T00:30:05.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the second one. Because your creature has a power of 6, you can deal a total of 6 damage during combat. If you are blocked by 2 creatures, you can choose how to divide that 6 damage between the 2 blocking creatures (though you you have assign lethal damage to one of them in order to also deal damage to the other). You don't get to deal 6 damage to each creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T00:30:05.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25536" CreationDate="2015-08-10T01:39:33.970" Score="3" ViewCount="4368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone suggested I read the basic guide of mtg because I'm new to the game, so I was reading it and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_magic_basic_rulebook_20090710.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;www.wizards.com&quot;&gt;on page 7 (Game Zones) where it talks about Exile&lt;/a&gt; it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability exiles a card, that card is put in a game area that's set apart from the rest of the game. The card will remain there forever, unless whatever put it there is able to bring it back. Exiled cards are normally face up. This zone is shared by both players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you played a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staggershock&quot;&gt;Staggershock&lt;/a&gt; and next turn you use rebound, spell happens, does it remain in exile or go to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, not a question but a side note, all players share the same exile? Thats interesting I didn't know that till just now.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T05:34:09.700" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T14:20:27.877" Title="When you use 'Rebound' does the card go to the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-08-12T19:44:37.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25534" CreationDate="2015-08-10T01:58:04.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast the spell a second time off rebound (from exile), it ends up in your graveyard. This is actually one of the Gatherer rulings on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Staggershock&quot;&gt;Staggershock&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast a card from exile this way, it will go to your graveyard when it resolves or is countered. It won't go back to exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a closer look at the reminder text (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebound &lt;em&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;If you cast this spell from your hand&lt;/strong&gt;, exile it as it resolves. At the beginning of your next upkeep, you may cast this card from exile without paying its mana cost.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only exile it as it resolves when you cast it from your hand. Any other time, like when you're casting it the second time (from exile) you follow the normal process for casting a spell, including putting it into your graveyard as it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder text isn't actually the full binding rules, but it's generally accurate and in this case it's only very slightly different from the full rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this spell was cast from your hand, instead of putting it into your graveyard as it resolves, exile it and, at the beginning of your next upkeep, you may cast this card from exile without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T02:03:21.710" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T02:03:21.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25534" CreationDate="2015-08-10T02:07:11.303" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;does it remain in exile or go to the graveyard?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither. It's moved to the stack when you cast it. From there, it will go to the graveyard on resolution (or upon being countered) as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you exercise the option to Rebound a previously-exiled Staggershock, you cast Staggershock. The first step of casting a spell is to move the card from the zone in which it's located (usually your hand, but exile in this case) to the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2a The player announces that he or she is casting the spell. That card (or that copy of a card) moves from where it is to the stack. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, it leaves exile. This is that to which &amp;quot;unless whatever put it there is able to bring it back&amp;quot; refers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the spell resolves, it will then go from the stack to the graveyard as normal since it was cast from exile rather than your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.87a Rebound appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents a static ability that functions while the spell is on the stack and may create a delayed triggered ability. “Rebound” means “&lt;strong&gt;If this spell was cast from your hand&lt;/strong&gt;, instead of putting it into your graveyard as it resolves, exile it and, at the beginning of your next upkeep, you may cast this card from exile without paying its mana cost.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2k As the final part of an instant or sorcery spell’s resolution, the spell is put into its owner’s graveyard. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T14:20:27.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25537" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T03:15:28.743" Score="4" ViewCount="1185" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the official &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/GWUbqof61dg?t=360&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;introduction video&lt;/a&gt; of Settlers of Catan Cities &amp;amp; Knights, it mentioned that if barbarians value is &quot;equal&quot; or less than the knights value, catan wins. If there's a tie, each one player gets a progress card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So doesn't &quot;eqaul&quot; values of barbarians and knights = a tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often, the overall amount of knights value is the same as the cities (barbarian value), and in that case, player with more knights cover those with extra cities, which is a win or tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And in that case, do we all get progress card? or does that player who has the most knights get 1 VP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13396" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T03:39:38.833" Title="Settlers of Catan Cities and knights - Knights VS Barbarians" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25537" CreationDate="2015-08-10T03:30:24.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you check if Catan wins or not by comparing the strength of the barbarians (the number of cities) against strength of the knights (the sum of the value of active knights). In the event of a tie in the strengths, Catan wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the barbarians win, the player who contributed the least has one of their cities pillaged. In the event of a tie for the lowest contribution, all players who contributed the least have one of their cities pillaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Catan wins, the player who contributed the most gets a Defender of Catan card worth 1 VP. In the even of a tie for the highest contribution, all players who contributed the most get a progress card of their choice instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T03:39:38.833" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T03:39:38.833" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25539" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T05:38:16.177" Score="-2" ViewCount="1116" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I untap an opponent's attacking creature with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kiora%27s%20Follower&quot;&gt;Kiora&amp;#39;s Follower&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, and avoid the combat damage that I would be dealt by that creature in the combat phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13398" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T10:49:06.130" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T10:49:06.130" Title="Can I untap an attacking creature and avoid exchanging combat damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-08-10T22:14:59.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25539" CreationDate="2015-08-10T06:48:17.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;506.4b&lt;/strong&gt; Tapping or untapping a creature that’s already been declared as an attacker or blocker doesn’t remove it from combat and doesn’t prevent its combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need something that specifically removes it from combat, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=1824&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Maze of Ith&quot;&gt;Maze of Ith&lt;/a&gt;. Actually causing it to leave the battlefield will also stop its attack, even if it comes back right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13386" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T06:48:17.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24779" CreationDate="2015-08-10T14:45:37.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no difference between completing a task and defeating a task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference in wording is - as suspected - for consistency. Additionally, because some tasks are in fact monsters, defeating is a better fit for being the general term than completing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T14:45:37.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25543" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-10T15:25:01.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dragonball Z collectible card game is a two player game based on the Japanese animated series. Players use cards representing characters from the show to be their personality, then use cards from their deck as abilities and attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Originally release in 2000 the game was discontinued in 2006. In 2014 Panini acquired the rights to the game and began production again. The rules have been changed slightly but the game play is much the same as the original 2000 release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T19:14:10.653" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T19:14:10.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25544" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-10T15:25:01.947" Score="0" Body="The Dragonball Z collectible card game is a two player game based on the Japanese animated series. " OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T19:33:37.090" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T19:33:37.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25507" CreationDate="2015-08-10T16:09:03.083" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just adding to Rainbolt's answer since I can't comment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the creature is not leaving play then the counters will stay. If you activate a Mutavault or Sarkhan, the Dragonspeaker and then are able to put +1/+1 counters on them those counters will stay there even after they stop being creatures. They will just be irrelevant to the cards new status as a land or planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if you do this with the new Liliana the counter will fall off as you have to exile her as part of her &quot;transformation&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T16:09:03.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23297" CreationDate="2015-08-10T19:04:09.973" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Lobsang mentioned: yes, the round continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everybody passes, you (player of J-J) would take the trick, then cede the lead of the next hand to the player next in order, since you have nothing left to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastEditorUserId="2201" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T19:18:37.197" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T19:18:37.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25547" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-10T19:08:42.217" Score="6" ViewCount="8165" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son (age 5) enjoys Dixit, but often it's just the two of us. I've come up with my own variant, below, but I want to hear more from the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We play with a hand of four cards, and we take turns as active player. The active player gives a hint, as normal, and plays a card face-down. The other player plays, and then two cards from the top of the deck are added to the mix before we shuffle and deal face-up. We play co-op, aiming to have us both guess correctly what the other player chose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2201" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T02:58:43.577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T02:58:43.577" Title="Can you play Dixit cooperatively with only 2 players?" Tags="|house-rules|dixit|two-player|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-08-12T20:16:34.127" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25515" CreationDate="2015-08-10T19:20:22.617" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason that K is traditionally lead from AK is because there are two important circumstances where a different signal is requested from partner (rather than attitude). The Ace lead is reserved for these particular circumstances because it is &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; important that there be no ambiguity in these circumstances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Notrump&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Ace lead against notrump signals a nearly running suit headed by at least AK, such as AKJT53, and requests partner to unblock an honour if he has one, else to give count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Suit&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The Ace lead indicates a desire to ruff, either in own hand or partner's, and requests a partner with length to show attitude and a partner with shortness to show count. This lead might be made from singleton A or doubleton Ace small, or from A empty fifth or sixth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the former case it should only be made by a defender &lt;em&gt;without&lt;/em&gt; entries, because it is partner who must get in to generate the ruffing leads. In the latter case it must be made only by a partner &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; entries who can get in to eliminate declarer's tricks in the suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As partner of K opening lead in a suit contract&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; When partner leads the King against a suit contract, the guideline is to show attitude unless you have two or more touching honours, in which case you play the &lt;strong&gt;highest&lt;/strong&gt; of the touching honours. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play your highest card from a small doubleton;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play your lowest card without an honour in hand;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play low with precisely Qx;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play low with Jx, or Tx - unless dummy has come down with precisely Queen third and you desire an immediate ruff;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the Q from QJ doubleton or longer;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the J holding JT9 doubleton or longer;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the T holding T98 or longer;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play your second highest card from Qxx or longer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the play of an honour from third hand in this situation always &lt;strong&gt;denies&lt;/strong&gt; the next higher honour, and shows either shortness or the next lower card (and possibly another).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner will almost always be able to read your card in order to play sensibly at the second trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As partner of A opening lead in a suit contract&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only encourage holding length with either the K or a quick trump winner with which to provide partner with his ruff. Otherwise discourage so that partner will switch to another suit before declarer's tricks get established.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other Signalling agreements besides these standard ones, but if these suffice for repeat World Champion &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Hamman&quot;&gt;Bob Hamman&lt;/a&gt; they are certainly sufficient for casual partnerships and beginning players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-10T19:26:51.940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T19:26:51.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25005" CreationDate="2015-08-10T20:00:30.713" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing that my friends and I do is take out cards that we don't like. When you have multiple sets combined, chances are that nobody will like seeing a Martian Manhunter or Suicide Squad. Edit the deck to take out cards that nobody wants to buy, so that people are always getting what they want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you edit the main deck, you can also play with a house rule for people to destroy a card from the main deck while in the line-up instead of gaining it. That way, later in the game when you want to be buying 5+ cost cards, you can just get rid of the lower cost cards and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T20:00:30.713" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23100" CreationDate="2015-08-10T20:03:59.603" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The backs of the cards are all the same just for that reason. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.cryptozoic.com/games/dc-comics-deck-building-game-heroes-unite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Play Heroes United on its own, or combine it with the original for an&#xA;  epic battle!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastActivityDate="2015-08-10T20:03:59.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2015-08-11T01:20:12.397" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;phase 10 on facebook.Great game but you can't play very often you have to wait for energy to refill. You can view video for energy but you only get one. They are very stingy with their energy this is very disappointing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13413" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T01:20:12.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25547" CreationDate="2015-08-11T06:09:52.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That doesn't sound too bad, except that the drawn cards could be really off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you could try to play a cooperative variant.&#xA;These two are interesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game is cooperative. Each player is the storyteller five times for&#xA;  a total of 10 turns and you go for a high score. The highest possible&#xA;  is&#xA;  70. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Neither player has a hand. Each turn, the storyteller makes up a story&#xA;  without seeing any cards, and then six cards are flipped over from the&#xA;  deck and arranged. Both players (must?) vote for two cards that they&#xA;  think best match the description, and color matters: use the red peg&#xA;  for your 1st vote, and the green peg for your 2nd vote. Then players&#xA;  reveal their votes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a card where you both voted red, you get 4 points. For a card&#xA;  where you both voted green, you get 3 points. For a card where you&#xA;  both voted but the colors didn't match, you get 2 points. For a card&#xA;  where only one player voted for it, you lose a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/700350/2-player-cooperative-dixit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/700350/2-player-cooperative-dixit&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How to Play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Deal cards to each player as usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pick a scoring marker for the players (just one marker) and another as a failure marker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pick a player to be Storyteller first. I'll refer to 'Storyteller' and 'Player 2'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The Storyteller picks a card from their hand and gives a clue or tells a story about it, then places the card face down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Player 2 picks a card from their hand to try to match the clue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Add 4 random cards from the deck to the chosen cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Shuffle them out and places them on the table as usual.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Each player now secretly makes a guess. The Storyteller wants to find Player 2s card. Player 2 wants to find the Storyteller's card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Reveal your guesses!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you both guessed the other player's card correctly, cheer and&#xA;  advance your scoring marker 1 space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If either or both of you guessed wrong, pout and advance the failure&#xA;  marker one space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each draw a new card. If you still have 4 cards left in the deck, swap&#xA;  who is Storyteller and proceed to another round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Try to have more points than failures at the end of the game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What does this mean? When you are the Storyteller, you want Player 2&#xA;  to guess your card. This is easy. You could just say &quot;A city made out&#xA;  of eggs&quot;, and your partner is sure to guess it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But...you also want to guess Player 2's card. Give a clue too&#xA;  specific, and your partner won't be able to play any card you can&#xA;  recognize!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You need to give them enough room to play a card you recognize,&#xA;  without making it too easy to be fooled by a random card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spirit of the game: No giving &quot;double&quot; clues that are meant to&#xA;  describe your card and the card Player 2 is supposed to play&#xA;  separately. (&quot;My card is a scarecrow, but your card has plants&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No setting up codes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No repeating clues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remember, you are trying to play a 4+ player competitive game as a 2&#xA;  player co-op. Try to break the game and it will break. Go with it and&#xA;  have fun and it should provide some amusement. I've tried to make it&#xA;  resistant to &quot;casual&quot; abuse at least.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/676496/2-player-co-op-dixit-variant&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/676496/2-player-co-op-dixit-variant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T06:09:52.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25553" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25555" CreationDate="2015-08-11T11:44:08.043" Score="4" ViewCount="602" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I'm in riichi and draw a red 5 from the wall, am I allowed to exchange it with the non-red 5 in my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would argue it might be allowed, because it does not change the yaku, wait or hand structure in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case the above is correct, what happens in case there is an (isolated) &lt;code&gt;678&lt;/code&gt; in my hand? Would I be allowed to discard the 8? Given the above rationale, the answer should be yes. However, this could be very complex in practice if the &lt;code&gt;678&lt;/code&gt; were not isolated, or if there are were similar sequences in other colors, and I doubt this would be acceptable for the players to keep exact track of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In comparison: I've learned earlier that a kan is allowed, when there are 3 equal tiles already present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-08-11T11:50:11.307" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T02:12:11.403" Title="Am I allowed to take a red 5 after reaching?" Tags="|mahjong|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25553" CreationDate="2015-08-11T14:13:16.047" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most &quot;official&quot; rules will not allow you to do this. (For reference, I looked up the Japanese Mahjong rules from the European Mahjong association &lt;a href=&quot;http://mahjong-europe.org/index.php?option=com_content&amp;amp;view=article&amp;amp;id=51&amp;amp;Itemid=136&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In principle, I think swapping tiles that do not change the wait structure would be allowed, but it is impossible to verify. In your example of swapping the 5 for the 8, all that is visible is the discarded 8. From an outsider perspective, it is possible that you completed a different meld and simply discarded an 8 from 5-6-7-8 in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also appears that the hidden kan/kong is allowed, but only when the pung is isolated and cannot be interpreted as a different set of melds (e.g., you cannot draw and complete a kong if you have 1-1-1, 2-2-2, 3-3-3, because those tiles could be interpreted as 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T14:13:16.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25563" CreationDate="2015-08-11T16:18:53.060" Score="2" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are in a four spade contract, (West and East passed throughout), and the two suits of interest are spades, and a side suit (call it hearts). These are the North and South hands, as given in a bridge column.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          S AQJ&#xA;            H A65&#xA;            D Q64&#xA;            C QJ74&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            S T9876&#xA;            H K3&#xA;            D 32&#xA;            C AK32 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening lead (7 of hearts,covered by East's 9) goes to your K of hearts. You lead a low spade to the Q in dummy for a finesse, and it holds (West and East play 3 and 2). If you now play A and J of spades, you will probably lose a spade to the king, but make your contract, because your natural losers are one spade and two diamonds. On the other hand, you can repeat the finesse by cashing the A of hearts and coming to your hand with a heart ruff. Your fear is that East will ruff with the K, and then go to West via a high diamond for a ruff. In rubber, the right thing to do is to draw opposing trumps as fast as possible by playing A, then &quot;low&quot; (J), in spades, conceding a trick to the opposing king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose this is Matchpoints (duplicate). Given East's and West's silence, is it reasonable to assume that hearts are split  4-4 or 5-3, and that you can return safely to your hand for a second finesse? If we can earn an overtrick half the time by finessing spades again, will that &quot;make up&quot; for the few times that East can ruff and defeat the contract?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The column reported that the actual declarer went to his king of clubs, the second spade finesse lost to East's king, and East reached a high diamond honor in West for a club ruff, down one, since clubs were 4-1. This, to me, is a greater risk than the heart ruff.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding was North (opener) 1NT, South 2 clubs North 2 diamonds South 4 spades. Neither side vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T14:24:24.077" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T20:33:17.343" Title="In Matchpoints, is it worth risking a ruff to try for an overtrick in the following situation?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5265" CreationDate="2015-08-11T21:14:06.130" Score="-8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you go on Amazon, you can find a box set of 1000 random cards for around $20, as well as a box of 500 basic lands (100 of each color) for around $15. Later this year (around Fall Break) I plan to host a Random Card Draft using these.&#xA;Basically, I will shuffle them, separate them all by rarity, and dole them out into &quot;packs&quot; with each pack containing 1 rare, 3 uncommons, and 11 commons (I realize I've got an extra common in here, but we have the cards for it). I will then have a draft using these packs.&#xA;By getting the cards in bulk, without caring for which set they are in, you can have a full 8 person draft with some pretty nice prizes for only about $5 per player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My Prize Distribution (Using a Single Elimination Tournament):&#xA;1st Place: 256 Cards&#xA;2nd Place: 128 Cards&#xA;3rd + 4th Place: 64 Cards Each&#xA;5th + 6th + 7th + 8th: 32 Cards Each&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1000 Card Link&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0017H86GA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Gathering-Cards-Bonus-Rares/dp/B0017H86GA&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500 Land Link&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00SG3PJGS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/500-Magic-Gathering-Islands-Mountains/dp/B00SG3PJGS/ref=sr_1_1?&amp;amp;s=toys-and-games&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1439325701&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=500+basic+lands+magic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I haven't actually tried this before, so I don't know how it will work. If you are concerned about the cards lacking synergy, you can create a few extra packs with 4 uncommons and 11 commons, and draft those with the 3 standard packs you created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13419" LastActivityDate="2015-08-11T21:14:06.130" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25558" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25559" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:09:40.857" Score="9" ViewCount="18886" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've had multiple games with three players left, where it became clear one player is significantly stronger than the two other players combined.  At one point the two weaker players realized this, and wanted to do a merger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've allowed this in a house rule when the two players' combined net worth is less than that of any other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming every player is operating in good faith, is it possible to achieve &quot;merger&quot; to the same effect within the official rules framework?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: My question is, under official rules, can Players A and B operate under a united banner as if they are one player? Assuming both players have made the necessary officially-sanctioned arrangements so same-coloured lands are only held by one player so houses can be built? Can Player A and B allow each other to be effectively rent-free under official rules? In this way if Player X (not part of the union) loses, the game effectively ends, or under whatever arrangements needed for Player B to surrender under official rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13420" LastEditorUserId="27374" LastEditDate="2021-09-16T14:36:09.733" LastActivityDate="2021-09-16T14:36:09.733" Title="Is a merger between two players possible in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25558" CreationDate="2015-08-11T23:50:44.953" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short version: With the exception of multiple players ending up winning, almost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer version: There are a couple things where this is different from the official rules. Because trades are legal within the rules, there's nothing stopping Player B from trading all of his property and money to Player A, in exchange for a dollar or something like that, and then after he loses being an outside spectator who attempts to help Player A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you cannot sell/trade properties that have any houses or hotels on them. This means that if you want to stay within the rules, Player B needs to first sell his houses to the bank (at half value), and Player A would have to buy them back after the trade. Aside from costing extra money to re-build the houses, there are 2 situations where following the rules could be different here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there are a shortage of houses remaining in the supply, and Player B has properties with hotels on them, then Player A would be unable to re-buy the hotel after he gets the property.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is a shortage of houses or hotels in the supply, and the third player could build the houses or hotels, then he can bid on them to attempt to win them in auction. Player A may either have to pay even more for them, or end up losing them to the third player.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that's outside the rules is that if Player A ends up winning, then by the official rules only Player A has won. But in your variant, Player B can claim to be as much the winner as Player A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T02:52:02.750" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T02:52:02.750" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25560" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25562" CreationDate="2015-08-12T02:02:17.370" Score="5" ViewCount="4971" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing exploding kittens and the game is unclear about the effect of nope cards mid attack. If a player has already drawn one of their attack and it's a nope, can they play it? What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13421" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T02:03:44.747" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T04:12:07.860" Title="Effect of nope card mid attack" Tags="|exploding-kittens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="178" CreationDate="2015-08-12T03:14:29.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes these rules can be confusing, but the iOS edition of Carcassonne has answered a lot of rule grey areas for me, including the River II city-bridge one.  The Carcassonne app makes it clear that this city-bridge over the river is, in fact, high enough to keep the fields &lt;em&gt;connected&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I still find this visually confusing sometimes, the app rules and application within games are clear.  This large bridge, as opposed to all small bridges, does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; separate fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pond end to the river also continues fields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't answer your other questions with the same certainty, but I can say that my group and I have always played it that the wooden bridges you place over the tiles do not block fields.  But that's just my group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Since this post is years after you asked the question, you may all know those rules already, but I thought I'd add this just in case anyone's doing a search.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13422" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T03:14:29.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25560" CreationDate="2015-08-12T04:12:07.860" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;While not explicity stated in the rules, my understanding is that Nope reacts to a card (or pair, or triple) &lt;em&gt;just played&lt;/em&gt;, in which case once you've drawn the Attack has already resolved and you can't &quot;Nope&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T04:12:07.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25556" CreationDate="2015-08-12T04:57:29.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was this hand posted on July 5, the thirtieth anniversary of Barry Crane's death. Fifth of his &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/pdf/crane_11_commandments_vince_remey.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;eleven commandments&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sevens are singletons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lead low to the Club Ace at trick three and repeat the Spade finesse at trick four. Assuming it wins I then cash the Spade Ace at trick 5 and if all have followed to the second round of Spades claim making 5, conceding two diamonds only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heart trick is a red herring, as even if the play wins it doesn't provide any additional tricks or any additional entries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many partnerships will be playing Jacoby transfers to make North declarer, so we may be facing an unusual defence. I must protect that by playing to take the eleventh trick. No-one will be missing game, so making is at best average. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T04:57:29.843" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25564" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-12T05:31:46.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A fast game in which you try to avoid the kittens to trigger an explosion killing you in the process (despite the title, the kittens are unharmed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each turn you can play as much cards as you like (probably ending your turn or giving an other player several turns to survive). The last action is to draw a card. If this is an exploding kitten, you need to defuse it else you are out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://explodingkittens.com/downloads/rules/Exploding_Kittens_Party_Pack_Edition_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; are expanded in 2017 to include more players (max 10). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12315" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T14:06:06.047" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T14:06:06.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25565" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-12T05:31:46.777" Score="0" Body="Cardgame for 2-5 players that was successfully Kickstarted in 2015. &quot;It is a highly-strategic, kitty-powered version of Russian Roulette.&quot;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2018-08-31T14:06:16.770" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T14:06:16.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25566" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25571" CreationDate="2015-08-12T10:04:07.933" Score="4" ViewCount="2300" Body="&lt;p&gt;With abilities that allow a player to pay for optional effects, is that payment made as the ability resolves or as it goes onto the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's made as it resolves, do you have the opportunity to use mana abilities at that time to pay for it, or do you need to fill up your mana pool prior to the ability resolving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good example of a card that does this is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dromar%2C%20the%20Banisher&quot;&gt;Dromar, the Banisher&lt;/a&gt;. This has a triggered ability with the option to pay. How about with static abilities that give the opportunity to pay, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archangel%20of%20Tithes&quot;&gt;Archangel of Tithes&lt;/a&gt;? When exactly do you have the opportunity to pay that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2020-01-25T16:46:17.613" Title="What is the timing of &quot;you may pay&quot; abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25569" CreationDate="2015-08-12T10:21:01.477" Score="2" ViewCount="2046" Body="&lt;p&gt;Despite having what I feel is a fairly solid understanding of most rules and timings, I can't figure out Archangel of Tithes, and I'm clashing with intent and wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archangel%20of%20Tithes&quot;&gt;Archangel of Tithes&lt;/a&gt; says &amp;quot;As long as Archangel of Tithes is untapped, creatures can't attack you or a planeswalker you control unless their controller pays {1} for each of those creatures.&amp;quot; Some of this confusion affects other cards, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oppressive%20Rays&quot;&gt;Oppressive Rays&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the following is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1: You have to pay every time you attack (as long as AoT is untapped), no matter what's happened previously.&lt;/strong&gt; Because of AoT's wording, it doesn't mention that it has to happen each attack, nor does it put a duration on how long paying allows you to attack or block. However, is there a part of the rules I've missed that explains this? Can I pay the cost at any time, or does something in the rules make it trigger on each attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2: You only have to pay once.&lt;/strong&gt; This is a static effect that prevents a creature from attacking unless its owner has, at some point, paid, because there's no duration on the &amp;quot;unless&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3: You have to pay at least once, but not any more until AoT becomes tapped and then untapped.&lt;/strong&gt; Because &amp;quot;as long as it's untapped&amp;quot; puts a duration on the freedom-from-not-attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4: I have AoT completely misunderstood and you have to pay totally.&lt;/strong&gt; Strictly by the wording, I could interpret AoT as meaning that I have to pay for all of my creatures. It says (creatures can't attack) unless (controller pays for each), so even if I want to attack with 1 of my 5 creatures I still pay 5. The alternate wording would be (each creature can't attack unless its controller pays 1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like 1 is the intent, but I can't totally justify it based on its wording with my current rules knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T13:55:37.313" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T13:55:37.313" Title="How do costs to attack work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25566" CreationDate="2015-08-12T10:56:34.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When these abilities trigger, they go on the stack, and regardless of whether you choose to pay the optional cost, all targets are chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On resolution you choose to pay the cost, mana abilities do not use the stack and can be activated as part of the resolution of the spell. You do not have to fill your mana pool before the ability resolves, you can fill your mana pool during the resolution of the spell. The same is not true of casting cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; however. These must be cast before the ability resolves while it is still on the stack. This is also true of lands which have abilities which are not mana abilities, e.g. fetchlands like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scalding%20Tarn&quot;&gt;Scalding Tarn&lt;/a&gt; which must be activated and resolved before resolution of the triggered ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T10:56:34.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25567" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:02:14.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your interpretation #1 is correct.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a combat phase starts, you name all the creatures that you want to attack with (or have to). Then if the player (or controller of the planeswalker) you attack has an untapped AoT, you determine the total mana costs (1 per creature that is about to attack), then you choose whether or not to pay the mana costs. If you don't, none of the creatures can attack. If you do, they can. This process repeats in every combat phase, regardless of what you have done or not done in previous combat phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1d The active player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it’s affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must attack, or that it must attack if some condition is met). If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of attackers is illegal. &lt;strong&gt;If a creature can’t attack unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost&lt;/strong&gt;, even if attacking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1g If any of the chosen creatures require paying costs to attack, the active player determines the total cost to attack. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. Once the total cost is determined, it becomes “locked in.” If effects would change the total cost after this time, ignore this change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1h If any of the costs require mana, the active player then has a chance to activate mana abilities (see rule 605, “Mana Abilities”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1i Once the player has enough mana in his or her mana pool, he or she pays all costs in any order. Partial payments are not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The equivalent thing happens when you declare blockers while an enemy AoT is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1c The defending player checks each creature he or she controls to see whether it’s affected by any requirements (effects that say a creature must block, or that it must block if some condition is met). If the number of requirements that are being obeyed is fewer than the maximum possible number of requirements that could be obeyed without disobeying any restrictions, the declaration of blockers is illegal. &lt;strong&gt;If a creature can’t block unless a player pays a cost, that player is not required to pay that cost&lt;/strong&gt;, even if blocking with that creature would increase the number of requirements being obeyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1d If any of the chosen creatures require paying costs to block, the defending player determines the total cost to block. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. Once the total cost is determined, it becomes “locked in.” If effects would change the total cost after this time, ignore this change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1e If any of the costs require mana, the defending player then has a chance to activate mana abilities (see rule 605, “Mana Abilities”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;509.1f Once the player has enough mana in his or her mana pool, he or she pays all costs in any order. Partial payments are not allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T12:02:14.420" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25572" CreationDate="2015-08-12T12:57:47.010" Score="5" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Stone Age, when you build a boat you receive a Civilization card. This card gives you an immediate bonus, as well as some form of additional points to be calculated at the end of the game.  I've always played that when these cards are purchased, they are placed face down on the player's individual board.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I recently saw a game played where the cards are placed face-up in front of each player.  This changed the dynamic of the game as players could immediately see which cards where more beneficial to certain people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the correct placement for these cards and are other players allowed to look at previous cards you've purchased?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7023" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T13:29:45.507" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T14:17:31.727" Title="Are the boats you build in Stone Age visible to other players?" Tags="|stone-age|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25566" CreationDate="2015-08-12T13:15:16.513" Score="8" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.2c Each paragraph break in a card’s text marks a separate ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dromar's triggered ability is all one ability. It resolves all at once. &quot;If you do&quot; is not a separate trigger phrase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dromar's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dromar's ability resolves. Follow the instructions of the ability in order:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may pay [&lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;]. You may also activate mana abilities at this time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do, choose a color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return all creatures of that color to their owners' hands. (If you didn't choose a color because you didn't pay the cost, no creatures match.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1d A player may activate a mana ability whenever an effect asks for a mana payment (even in the middle of resolving an ability). No player gets priority in the middle of a resolving ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Archangel's static ability functions when you declare attackers or blockers.  In other words, you declare and pay at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You attack with X creatures and pay {X}.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No player gets priority in between when you declare and when you pay. This is covered by rules 508.1 through 508.3, which are too lengthy to quote, but you can find them in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150717.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; if you want a more detailed explanation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T16:14:54.053" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:14:54.053" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25572" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25570" CreationDate="2015-08-12T13:23:45.153" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're playing it right. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Stone_Age.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 6):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player places their [Civilization] cards face-down on the corresponding space of their player board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, no one can see which cards you have. The only exceptions to this rule are the one-use tool cards. They are kept open until they are used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQgXq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DQgXq.png&quot; alt=&quot;one-use tool cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;One-use tool cards&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T14:17:31.727" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T14:17:31.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5265" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:41:00.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to mirror official drafting as closely as possible - either because you are practising for a tournament or you are interested in experiencing the format &lt;strong&gt;as designed&lt;/strong&gt; - Then here are the things that you should be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Magic drafts are booster driven&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a draft starts, you get 3 boosters, each of which has 1 rare, 3 uncommons and 10 commons. They also have 1 basic land which is sometimes replaced by a foil. High level tournament drafts remove the basic land or foil. For self built packs this should probably be done also (so 14 card packs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Magic boosters all come from the same set&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you get 3 packs, each of those packs should be built entirely of cards from the same set. I.e. no pack should contain cards from more than 1 set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Magic drafts use specific packs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the format you want to replicate, there are specific distributions of packs to be used. For example, if you want to replicate the first drafting format of a new block, it would be 3 packs of the first set of the block (e.g. 3 packs of Khans of Tarkir). Other formats exist that may be 2 packs of the first set and 1 of the second, or 1 pack for each set in a 3 set block. Some blocks have special sets which are drafted fresh (e.g. Rise of the Eldrazi was a 3rd set which was drafted as 3 packs of rise)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as long as you know what draft format you want to replicate and follow these rules, your draft should be pretty close to the intended distribution of cards. The reason for following these is that sets are created specifically with drafting in mind, and have comparitive power levels between colours and rarities which differ for different sets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5161" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:41:00.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25576" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:50:00.020" Score="3" ViewCount="3941" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disowned%20Ancestor&quot;&gt;Disowned Ancestor&lt;/a&gt; it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outlast {1}{B} &lt;em&gt;({1}{B}, tap: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. Outlast only as a sorcery.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do you pay the cost to activate it twice?&#xA;Would it not be the same if it said&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Outlast {2}{B}{B}, tap: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. Outlast only as a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't understand what the point of paying the mana twice instead of doubled would be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T17:30:53.800" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:08:01.987" Title="What does outlast do?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:52:02.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You misunderstand.  Everything in the parenthesis and italics is just reminder text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Outlast {1}{B}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;means&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}{B}, {T}: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you only pay the mana once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T18:08:01.987" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T18:08:01.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25574" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:56:19.633" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not pay the cost twice. The part in parentheses is called reminder text, and doesn't actually do anything it just reminds you how Outlast works. The card would function exactly the same if it read &quot;Outlast {1}{B}&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;207.2a&lt;/strong&gt; Reminder text is italicized text within parentheses that summarizes a rule that applies to that card. It usually appears on the same line as the ability it’s relevant to, but it may appear on its own line if it applies to an aspect of the card other than an ability.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.106.&lt;/strong&gt; Outlast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.106a&lt;/strong&gt; Outlast is an activated ability. “Outlast [cost]” means “[Cost], {T}: Put a +1/+1 counter on this creature. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T16:56:19.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25578" CreationDate="2015-08-12T16:58:14.177" Score="1" ViewCount="1023" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lose%20Calm&quot;&gt;Lose Calm&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gain control of target creature until end of turn. Untap that creature. It gains haste until end of turn and can't be blocked this turn except bye two or more creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it says untap the creature, but that is so I can attack them with it, so do I tap the creature when its back in their control if I used it to attack them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T17:17:44.593" Title="Lose Calm, if you make a creature attack does it become tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25577" CreationDate="2015-08-12T17:06:16.617" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature being tapped or untapped is completely independent of who controls it. When Lose Calm resolves, you become the creature's controller and the creature untaps if it was tapped. Then you can do whatever you want with it, including attack with it. After that, once your turn ends, the creature returns to your opponent's control, in whatever state it is in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T17:17:44.593" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T17:17:44.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:28:09.960" Score="2" ViewCount="10020" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature with 4/4 double strike, does it kill each blocking creature with toughness 4 or less due to first strike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13076" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T21:56:08.483" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:10:15.803" Title="How does double strike work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25580" CreationDate="2015-08-12T21:54:51.707" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creatures always deal damage equal to their power. Creatures with double strike do this twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, a creature with double strike deals damage equal to its power once during the first strike damage step, and once during the regular combat damage step. Creatures with first strike deal damage just once during the first strike damage step, and regular creatures deal damage just once during the regular combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your attacking creature is blocked by multiple creatures, you pick an order to assign damage. Your creature deals lethal damage to the first, then if there's still damage left over, goes on to the second, and so on. It never gets to deal more damage than its power, though - it's just a question of how it's spread across the blocking creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for example, if your 4/4 with double strike is blocked by two 4/4s (without first strike or double strike), during the first strike damage step your 4/4 would deal 4 damage to of your opponent's 4/4s (killing it before it has a chance to deal damage), then during regular combat damage your 4/4 and your opponent's remaining 4/4 would deal 4 damage to each other (killing each other). End result: you traded your 4/4 double strike for two regular 4/4s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if your 4/4 were blocked by three 3/3s, during first strike damage it'd deal 3 damage to the first (killing it) and deal one damage to the next one, then during regular combat damage it'd deal two damage to that one (finishing it off) and two damage to the last one, taking 6 damage in return (killing it). End result: you traded your 4/4 double strike for two regular 3/3s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-12T22:26:53.497" LastActivityDate="2015-08-12T22:26:53.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25580" CreationDate="2015-08-12T22:08:48.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your 4/4 creature will deal 4 damage, and then it will deal 4 damage again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attack with a 4/4 creature that has double strike, and it gets blocked by two regular 4/4 creatures, the following will happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Combat Damage Step&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your attacker deals a total of 4 damage to the first blocker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The opposing blockers assign no damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first blocker dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second Combat Damage Step&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your attacker deals a total of 4 damage to the remaining.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Simultaneously, the surviving blocker deals a total of 4 damage to your attacker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your creature and the second blocker die simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must choose which blocker is first and second the moment that blocks are declared, and you must always assign lethal damage to the first one before you move on to the second one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T13:10:15.803" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T13:10:15.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25583" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T00:21:28.250" Score="3" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the advantage to starting your meld and laying it down when it isn't complete? Why not just wait until you have all seven?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13427" LastActivityDate="2022-04-17T02:16:12.140" Title="What is the advantage to starting your meld and laying it down when it isn't complete? Why not just wait until you have all seven?" Tags="|hand-and-foot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14921" CreationDate="2015-08-13T10:54:36.290" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know I'm late in answering this, but in original neterunner, loss of clicks persist through subsequent turns.&#xA;i.e. If you cause an an opponent to lose six clicks, two or three of those would carry over to your opponent's next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13432" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T10:54:36.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-13T13:06:32.423" Score="6" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;If opener opens 1s how many hearts does responder need to respond with 2h (has 10 points).  If opener opens 1h how many spades does responder need to respond 1 spade (6-9 points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13433" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T14:35:11.033" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:06:02.760" Title="bridge question regarding answering opening of 1 of a major" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25585" CreationDate="2015-08-13T14:14:49.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I infer from the phrasing of your question that you are playing a 4-card Major  natural system such as Goren. If that is not the case please specify what system you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, it is vital to correct your statement on the strength of the 1S response to 1H; it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a limited strength bid of 6-9 HCP but an unlimited strength bid of 6-20+ HCP. It is absolutely forcing for one round on Opener, who is obligated to ensure that you get a second opportunity to call. While there are some unusual circumstances where an expert might make this call as a &lt;em&gt;prepared&lt;/em&gt; bid with only 3 Spades, I would strongly recommend that you now forget I ever said that, and always treat it as showing 4 or more Spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, the principle of bidding 4-card suits up the line is a fundamental tenet of natural systems. Don't go bidding your &lt;strong&gt;best&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;strongest&lt;/strong&gt; four card suit first; that will cause you to subsequently be lying about your overall hand shape. Bidding is a language and, just as in English, you cannot be scrambling the word order of your sentence and expect the meaning to be unchanged. &quot;&lt;em&gt;That is your cat.&lt;/em&gt;&quot; and &quot;&lt;em&gt;Is that your cat?&lt;/em&gt;&quot; have different meanings in English, and reversing the order in which you show two suits also changes the meaning of your calls. When looking to see which denomination is the best to play in, total number of trumps is much more important than trump quality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, the 2H response to a 1S opening &lt;em&gt;almost promises&lt;/em&gt; 5 Hearts; because, due to the above, it denies any other 4-card holding. It promises 10-20+ HCP, and &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; a 5-card Heart holding or a 3-4-3-3 hand shape for which either of a 1NT or 2S response was distasteful. With a flat 10 HCP I would prefer a 1NT or 2S response to bidding 2H with only 4, choosing between the two on whether my high cards were concentrated in one or two suits including spades or well distributed over at least three.  &lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;: In summary, when responding 2H over a 1S opening have either 5 Hearts or an extra point or two above the 10 HCP minimum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again - none of this applies unless you are playing a natural 4-card major system such as &lt;em&gt;Goren&lt;/em&gt;. I suspect much of it applies to &lt;em&gt;ACOL&lt;/em&gt; though never having played (or read much on) that system I am less familiar with it. In particular, if you are playing any of a 5-card Major system (whether Hardy or K-S style), a Forcing Club system, or &lt;em&gt;Canape&lt;/em&gt; style responses &lt;strong&gt;none of the above will apply as written&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T17:06:02.760" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:06:02.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25594" CreationDate="2015-08-13T14:56:15.893" Score="4" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the price of the poorhouse from The Dark City expansion? I'm asking, because in my (German) edition the poorhouse doesn't have any coins printed on it, so I suppose this is an error by the publisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13436" LastEditorUserId="13436" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T15:40:08.760" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T07:32:32.120" Title="Citadels: Price of the poorhouse from Dark City" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25590" CreationDate="2015-08-13T15:35:08.440" Score="4" ViewCount="2571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a mill deck that uses &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sphinx's Tutelage&lt;/a&gt; among other things. I'd like to find a card that could combo with it by allowing me to draw when a card is put in an opponent's graveyard. I'm not sure such a card exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15881&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Compost&lt;/a&gt; would be perfect, except it only works with black cards. There should also be a way to get out of the loop so I don't mill myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern-legal would be best but this is more about curiosity so it's not super important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13437" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T22:55:38.797" Title="Is there a card that lets me draw whenever a card is put in an opponent's graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25587" CreationDate="2015-08-13T16:17:43.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/cards/dc-poor-house-lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;5 gold&lt;/a&gt;. (Link to Fantasy Flight Poor House card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1873" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T16:17:43.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25588" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:42:11.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just add &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=146022&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Painter's Servant&lt;/a&gt; to your combo of Sphinx's Tutelage and Compost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Painter's Servant in play, every card your opponent mills will be Black and cause a Compost trigger.  So as soon as the Sphinx's Tutelage trigger first resolves, your opponent will mill (at least) 2, netting you two more draw triggers, causing 2 more sphinx triggers, leading to 4 more draw triggers causing 4 more sphinx triggers leading to 8 more draw triggers, etc etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compost is a 'may' so you don't need to worry about milling yourself if you want to stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2015-08-13T22:55:38.797" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T22:55:38.797" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25588" CreationDate="2015-08-13T17:51:22.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To post as an answer what was hashed out in the comments, there is no card that will do what you want at this time.  Any available cards have restrictions (like Compost) or result in other things like life loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T17:51:22.740" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2015-08-13T17:51:22.740" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25592" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25605" CreationDate="2015-08-13T18:29:42.733" Score="2" ViewCount="1069" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can cards in archives affect the runner without explicitly saying they do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook on page 6, it describes archives like so (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Archives- This is the Corporation’s trash pile. Archives is&#xA;kept adjacent to R&amp;amp;D. This is where Corporation cards are&#xA;placed when they are trashed or discarded. &lt;strong&gt;Cards in&#xA;Archives are inactive&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, rules can be trumped by special abilities on cards. Compare the cards Snare! and Shi.Kyū.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snare!:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Snare! is accessed from R&amp;amp;D, the Runner must reveal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pay 4[Credits] when the Runner accesses Snare!, do 3 net damage and give the Runner 1 tag. &lt;strong&gt;Ignore this effect if the Runner accesses Snare! from Archives.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shi.Kyū:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Runner accesses Shi.Kyū, you may pay X[Credits]. The Runner must take either X net damage or add Shi.Kyū to his or her score area as an agenda worth −1 agenda point. &lt;strong&gt;Ignore this ability if the Runner accesses Shi.Kyū from R&amp;amp;D.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does Shi.Kyū affect the runner if they access it from archives? It doesn't mention archives, so you'd think the default would be inactive (and therefore not harmful to the runner). But then why would Snare! explicitly mention that it doesn't work in archives? Is it just being redundant?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13439" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T11:36:49.807" Title="Accessing an Archived Ambush" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25587" CreationDate="2015-08-13T20:48:14.660" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the US version, the Poor House costs 5 gold. In European versions, it costs 0 gold. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/406296/faq-end-all-faqs-work-progress&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;general consensus&lt;/a&gt; is that you should play the Poor House with its face value. If your version says 0 cost, that's what you should play it as. If you don't want to do that, make sure you inform everyone about this before the game starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear which publisher is in error, as the creator of the game, Bruno Faidutti, never spoke on the subject.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25602/what-are-the-differences-between-various-versions-of-citadels&quot;&gt;a lot of inconsistencies&lt;/a&gt; between European and US versions of Citadels. Someone &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/2223041&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on BGG&lt;/a&gt; once claimed that the 0 cost version is a misprint, but as far as I could tell they had no official source for that information, and it caused a bit of debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T07:32:32.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25592" CreationDate="2015-08-13T22:03:32.417" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: ambushes that trigger upon reveal do trigger on archive access unless otherwise specified. This pertains to cards like ShiKu, Shock, Space Camp, and Crusium Grid. I'll elaborate more when I'm not on my phone! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T22:03:32.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25515" CreationDate="2015-08-13T22:49:43.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My preference is to lead a K from a &quot;truncated&quot; or &quot;weaker&quot; suit (as defined below) if I can, and an A from a stronger suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A suit without an A is a &quot;truncated suit, by definition. So if I have KQJ or KQT, I will lead the king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will also lead the K from AK &lt;em&gt;blank&lt;/em&gt; because the suit is &quot;truncated&quot; by having no lower cards. I don't fear your ruff in this instance, because if I have AK and you have a void, the opponents would have 11 cards in this suit, which would be their trump suit, instead of their actual one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike Goren, I would lead an A with AKx, and certainly with AKQ, because that's a nice strong suit. Here, I feel there's a chance of a ruff, but if you can ruff my x on the third round, that's what I want you to do. At times, you might even want to ruff my queen if you can, to gain the lead for e.g. a finesse through declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another answerer pointed out that some people reserve the ace leads for only the strongest holdings, either a long one, like AKJT etc. or a &quot;ruffing&quot; one like Ax, or Axxxx. Depending on what else I held, I might lead the A, then the x from Ax, but I want to differentiate AK (lead the king) from AKx (lead the A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-08-13T22:49:43.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25597" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-14T00:42:48.773" Score="1" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was once a kitchen table Magic: the Gathering player, but I quit because the cost of buying enough singles and packs to create a competitive deck (or even a fun kitchen table deck) was simply too high. Furthermore, it seemed like the person who spent the most money on packs and singles would win the most games, and I did not want to spend ~$300 on just one deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was wondering, if I convinced my friends to use proxies instead of using regular cards, would it make the game play solely based on who is the best deckbuilder (or netdecker!), or would using proxies hurt the game by ruining the TCG aspect of the game? Also, what house rules permitting proxies have you used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8029" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T22:15:05.083" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T22:15:05.083" Title="How does Magic the Gathering play differently with proxies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-08-14T03:09:48.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22585" CreationDate="2015-08-14T03:15:11.470" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google &quot;mage wars Warlock strategy&quot; one of the results will be a 4 minute youtube video of a Warlock tearing a beastmaster apart, winning the game in 9 rounds, without summoning a single creature, demons or otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13444" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T03:15:11.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25600" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25601" CreationDate="2015-08-14T08:43:08.170" Score="9" ViewCount="6113" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a game of Commander at my local store last week some of the folks I was playing with stated that conceding the game was a 'sorcery speed' action. The playgroup made some valid points about this preventing collusion and also the somewhat-irritating situation where one player takes control of someone else's creature and swings for lethal damage with it, only to have that creature's owner leave the game, taking the creature with them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time I just accepted that this could well be the case and got on with the game (I had no intention of conceding) but in a moment of curiosity decided to do a quick google search which brought me to the below entry from the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3a A player can concede the game at any time. A player who concedes loses the game immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes it pretty clear to me that by normal rules a player can concede at any time, they don't even need to have priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know whether this supposed sorcery speed concession is just a myth/common misconception or is it some sort of rule enforced only in multiplayer tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7888" LastEditorUserId="7888" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T11:18:38.970" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T11:18:38.970" Title="The 'speed' of conceding a game" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25600" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:06:41.877" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you have shown in your question, it is a house rule. That said, it's not a particularly surprising house rule as generally the kind of concession this would arise in could easily be a jerkish move, though not necessarily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3a A player can concede the game at any time. A player who concedes leaves the game immediately. He or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.1. Whenever a card’s text directly contradicts these rules, the card takes precedence. The card overrides only the rule that applies to that specific situation. The only exception is that a player can concede the game at any time (see rule 104.3a).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;712.6. The controller of another player can’t make that player concede. A player may concede the game at any time, even if he or she is controlled by another player. See rule 104.3a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;405.6. Some things that happen during the game don’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;405.6g A player may concede the game at any time. That player leaves the game immediately. See rule 104.3a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conceding isn't covered by the rules governing timing and priority. It is not listed in the rules under special actions. Rules as written; it can be done at any time, even when not in control of your own turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T10:10:56.533" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25602" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25603" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:27:53.087" Score="9" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm shocked by the amount of rule differences between the US English version of Citadels (by Fantasy Flight) and the various European (non-English) versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a complete list of the differences between:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Citadels (US, Fantasy Flight Games)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ohne Furcht und Adel (Germany, Hans im Glueck)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Machiavelli (Netherlands, 999 Games)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Citadelles (France, Millennium)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inconsistency seems to be mostly between US and EU, even though there are so many different publishers. Presumably this is because most EU versions are directly based on the German version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-11T19:54:03.110" LastActivityDate="2017-04-11T19:54:03.110" Title="What are the differences between various versions of Citadels" Tags="|citadels|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25602" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:27:53.087" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Took some time to compare the rules, but man there's more than I thought. Some are more subtle, others are complete game changers. Here's a complete list (unless I missed any):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poor House&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: costs 5 gold to build.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: costs 0 gold to build.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Removing characters&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: First put down the face-down card, then the face-up cards. If needed, replace the king from the face-up cards. The starting player can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; look at the face-down card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: First put down the face-up card, then replace the king if necessary, then play the face-down card. The starting player can look at the face-down card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of turn&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: After all the characters have been called, each player returns his character card to the Character Deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: At the end of your turn, place your character card at the center of the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discarded cards&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Face-down at the bottom of the deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: Face-up discard pile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Character abilities&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Used after performing an action (choosing gold or cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: Can be used before or after performing an action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Queen ability&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Receives three gold if you are sitting next to the King or the Emperor (eg the person with the King/Emperor card).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: Receives three gold if she sits next to the player with the wooden king piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warlord ability (in combination with Bell Tower)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: May not destroy a district in a city that is already completed by having eight districts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: May not destroy districts from cities that already has eight districts.&#xA;receive any gold from the Poor House or from their Alchemist ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Emperor ability&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: The player who receives the Crown chooses to give you either one gold or one district card from his hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: (no such rule exists)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diplomat ability&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Used at end of turn. Can &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; exchange with a completed city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: Used at any time during your turn. Can exchange with a completed city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Identical districts&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: You may not build a district such that you have two identical districts in your city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: (no such rule exists)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bell Tower&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Bonuses are awarded for seven districts instead of eight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: (no such rule exists) bonuses are awarded for eight districts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cemetery&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: If you are using the Diplomat you must remove the Cemetery.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: If you are using the Diplomat, the Cemetery loses its function.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of game scoring (in case of tie)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;US: Most points wins. In case of a tie, only look at points from district cards. &lt;em&gt;If there's still a tie, whoever has the most gold wins.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EU: Most points wins. In case of a tie, only look at points from district cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything on the list is based on these documents&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/f2/e7/f2e74a36-bed7-4a38-aff4-c2e968a1c369/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot;&gt;English&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/fileadmin/data_archive/Regeln/OFUA_DDL_Regel.pdf&quot;&gt;German&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gezelschapsspel.info/sites/default/files/bijlages/Machiavelli%20spelregels.pdf&quot;&gt;Dutch&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeuxavolonte.asso.fr/regles/citadelles_seconde_edition.pdf&quot;&gt;French&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found any differences between the German, Dutch and French versions, they seem to be mutually consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T14:14:05.323" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:14:05.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25600" CreationDate="2015-08-14T09:46:55.483" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as official rules are concerned, it's certainly a misconception. The right to concede is unaffected by the state of the game or the number of remaining players. A player conceding can absolutely affect the game for the remaining players in a multiplayer match, but there still is no official rule anywhere that restricts your right to concede at any time. Of course, house rules can change any official rule - if your game store uses house rules for their (inofficial) tournaments, then that's the way it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that collusion is a valid concern in a tournament setting and forbidden by the official tournament rules. However, while conceding a game can be the result of collusion, the act of collusion is forbidden and punishable, not the act of conceding. If the tournament you have mentioned was a sanctioned event, changing the rules of conceding to be sorcery speed was not consistent with the official rules of the game, but if the Head Judge made that call, it still stands, as the Head Judge is the final rules authority at an event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-08-14T10:09:11.297" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T10:09:11.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25592" CreationDate="2015-08-14T11:36:49.807" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Base rules state that the runner accesses all cards in Archives when they access Archives.  When they do, they resolve the effects of the cards normally.  This goes for things like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=shock&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=NAPD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NAPD Contracts&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shi.Kyu&lt;/a&gt;.  However, text on the card always overrides basic rules in the game.  You can see this with cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Snare&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snare!&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Fetal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fetal AI&lt;/a&gt; where they specifically do not trigger their abilities if they are being accessed from Archives.  However, Fetal DOES still cost the two credits to steal from Archives, as that ability is not suppressed in Archives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why a Jinteki thousand-cuts deck is deadly.  Even if a Shock is trashed, it's still deadly in Archives and will happen every time the Runner tries to access that server.  Another thing to note is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01067&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Personal Evolution&lt;/a&gt; still happens after the Runner steals any agenda from Archives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One note on this, however.  Even though the Runner has to access everything if they want it to be considered a successful run, they are allowed to choose the order in which they access these cards.  So, if you would access Archives and steal your final few points, you do not flatline as a result of other cards doing damage to you.  Nice to know when Jinteki starts really burying their agendas in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T11:36:49.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2015-08-14T12:16:28.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Everyone has equal access to the selected roles, so it's not so much the balance of the game that changes: only the metagame is affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before we start the game, we put all the roles pairwise on the table. Then we randomly select a starting player who picks one role. Its counterpart is removed. We proceed clockwise until all roles have been picked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This adds an extra dimension to the game, because you can tell something about a person by the roles they choose to include.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Afterwards if we're up for another game, we swap out all the character cards for their counterparts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T12:16:28.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13595" CreationDate="2015-08-14T15:54:07.457" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. THis is possible. You can also use cards in your hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13451" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T15:54:07.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25583" CreationDate="2015-08-14T16:06:08.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have four cards to meld in your hand, and if you don't play them, then how is your partner going to add the three cards he potentially has in his hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2015-08-14T16:06:08.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25610" CreationDate="2015-08-15T04:12:00.583" Score="1" ViewCount="44776" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of parts into the game where i just dont know what to do with the die. For example, when I have to roll a 3+ to cross a bridge, how many dice is it when it's not a might or speed or sanity or knowledge roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13454" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-08-15T05:54:30.413" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:07:14.817" Title="How does the die rolling work in Betrayal at House on the Hill?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25609" CreationDate="2015-08-15T04:17:01.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of dice you roll is equal to your stat for the roll you need. So if it tells you to make a might roll, and your might is 3, then you roll 3 dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-15T04:17:01.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25611" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25629" CreationDate="2015-08-15T09:17:48.123" Score="3" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;If two investigators each have the same spell (but with different flip side consequences), can they trade these spells during the trade action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T11:50:47.437" Title="Can two investigators trade the same spells?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25630" CreationDate="2015-08-15T09:24:42.377" Score="4" ViewCount="2562" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many cases in Tokyo encounters where you can cause damage to a selected monster and one case where you can &quot;discard&quot; a monster.  Can these actions be taken on epic monsters as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought there was some documentation that specifically referred to a ruling at least in part related to this, but I cannot locate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T11:56:16.000" Title="Are epic monsters treated differently than regular monsters with regard to taking damage or being discarded remotely?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25631" CreationDate="2015-08-15T09:26:50.553" Score="3" ViewCount="1565" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the Shub-Niggurath mysteries calls for action after a monster is defeated.  Does this include when you discard a monster from a Tokyo encounter or kill it from inducing a loss of health from Tokyo?  With no further clarification on the wording, I would think discarding an entire monster would be considered defeating it as it gets blasted from the Earth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T12:03:12.170" Title="When a monster is discarded, is it considered &quot;defeated&quot;?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25616" CreationDate="2015-08-15T09:30:14.237" Score="3" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe if all the cards of a certain kind are gone from the deck and you are told to take that condition, you simply gain the benefit of not having to take the condition.  What if you are offered the option to take a condition in exchange for some side effect and either you already have the condition or it is not present in the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would think you would not be able to gain the side effect because the wording &quot;you may gain a &lt;strong&gt;_ condition to _&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; does not get fulfilled as you didn't &lt;strong&gt;gain&lt;/strong&gt; the condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:58:18.527" Title="If you already have a condition or there are none left in the deck, can you gain an effect--that normally induces a condition--for free?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25617" CreationDate="2015-08-16T01:58:42.533" Score="0" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you own a Law Office tile and two other players are tied for a goal (but you are not), do you win that goal?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have to be one of the players that is part of a tie in order to win that tie with Law Office?  From the way that the tile reads, it does not seem to clarify whether it refers to only breaking your own ties, or if you can benefit from goals that any other players are tying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFuhy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rFuhy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My base instinct is to assume not, but I was reminded of a similar ruling in Eminent Domain, which had the same situation on the promo card Exclusive Victory (see left card in the image below).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PN6YK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PN6YK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that game, the card does allow you to win the game if any players tie for first place, even if you're not one of them, resulting in you taking first instead of them.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/110863/eminent-domain-elusiveexclusive-victory-promo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Online rules clarifications&lt;/a&gt; confirm this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Effect: If the game ends in a tie, you win the game. (Even if you're not one of the tied players)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the Law Office tile in Suburbia work the same way as the Exclusive Victory card in Eminent Domain?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastActivityDate="2018-10-10T14:23:53.810" Title="Do Law Offices affect ties you're not part of?" Tags="|suburbia|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25614" CreationDate="2015-08-16T02:05:50.440" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I believe you are correct - you cannot.&lt;/strong&gt;  A similar but more common situation that can occur in the game is when you are given the option to become delayed in order to gain a benefit.  &quot;Delayed&quot; does not have a card to represent it, so one cannot run out of them, and in these cases, the benefit only occurs if you do in fact become delayed - you cannot prevent it (such as with the &lt;em&gt;Pocketwatch&lt;/em&gt;) and still gain the benefit.  It would stand to reason that other effects that use the phrasing of &quot;you may x to y&quot; follow the same rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4773" LastEditorUserId="4773" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T19:58:18.527" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T19:58:18.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25615" CreationDate="2015-08-16T02:27:42.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/93520/suburbia-inc-english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; seem pretty clear about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In addition, at the end of the game when goals are being scored, the player with a Law Office scores points &lt;strong&gt;if he is tied with another player&lt;/strong&gt; for achieving one goal (public or his own private goal, which he picks from any of his tied goals) as if he had won it. If two players have the Law Office, they may each score the same tied goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, it does not let you win a tie that you're not part of. (It doesn't work the same as your example from another game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T02:27:42.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25619" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25620" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:08:59.300" Score="2" ViewCount="3457" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I stumbled upon this land, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karakas&quot;&gt;Karakas&lt;/a&gt;.  Can this return effect reach a card in exile?  I read the rules regarding exile, and it appears to me that Karakas' effect (and similar return/play/add effects) are fully capable of accessing the Exile Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13466" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T14:24:45.800" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T15:00:51.313" Title="Can non-exile related return effects bring a card out of exile?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25619" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:23:05.490" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Karakas' ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tap: Return target legendary creature to its owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Karakas returns a &lt;em&gt;creature&lt;/em&gt;. Creatures only exist on the battlefield, everywhere else they are usually creature &lt;em&gt;cards&lt;/em&gt; (or spells, on the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;109.2. If a spell or ability uses a description of an object that includes a card type or subtype, but doesn't include the word &quot;card,&quot; &quot;spell,&quot; &quot;source,&quot; or &quot;scheme,&quot; it means a permanent of that card type or subtype on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Karakas can not target cards in exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastEditorUserId="6780" LastEditDate="2015-08-16T09:28:03.393" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T09:28:03.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25619" CreationDate="2015-08-16T09:24:34.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it can't. Only cards that explicitly state that they can return something from exile can do so. Examples are very few.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Riftsweeper&quot;&gt;Riftsweeper&lt;/a&gt; returns an arbitrary face up exiled card to library.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Misthollow%20Griffin&quot;&gt;Misthollow Griffin&lt;/a&gt; can be cast from exile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torrent%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Torrent Elemental&lt;/a&gt; can be brought back from exile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pull%20from%20Eternity&quot;&gt;Pull from Eternity&lt;/a&gt; returns an arbitrary face up exiled card to it's graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20of%20Fate&quot;&gt;Mirror of Fate&lt;/a&gt; swaps your library for 7 exiled cards (any order)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runic%20Repetition&quot;&gt;Runic Repetition&lt;/a&gt; returns an exiled flashback card to your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Venser%20Diffusion&quot;&gt;Venser Diffusion&lt;/a&gt; returns a suspended (i.e. temporarily exiled) card to it's owner's hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Jefromi points out in a comment to the answer, Mark Rosewater is not too interested in seeing this as a mechanic that gets deeply developed, because it then becomes a second graveyard. &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/gle-ladies-part-3-2012-05-07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Link&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: There are on the order of 30 cards that exile cards face down.  Here's a rough search for them on gatherer:  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5Bexile%5D+%5Bface%5D+%5Bdown%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[exile]+[face]+[down]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-12T15:00:51.313" LastActivityDate="2022-07-12T15:00:51.313" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25622" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-16T12:21:55.040" Score="9" ViewCount="67586" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards Against Humanity has different country editions, like UK, US, and AU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there differences between these editions other than grammar? What are those differences?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13467" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-01-16T13:23:01.877" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T10:45:18.527" Title="Are there differences between the different country's editions of Cards Against Humanity?" Tags="|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-16T14:06:09.730" Score="0" ViewCount="125" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to play additional lands in a turn? I am assembling a black/white deck but want to play with cards that have higher casting cost. I do not, however, want my deck to lose speed as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13468" LastActivityDate="2015-08-16T14:06:09.730" Title="Multiple lands in MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-08-16T17:19:56.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25622" CreationDate="2015-08-16T19:14:17.767" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I have both the US and the UK version. There are different cards in both editions. And there are cards with slightly different texts (for example Dear Abby in the US version and Dear Agony Aunt in the UK version).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And some names are different (Margaret Thatcher only appears in the UK version). The UK version also contains Scottish warriors lifting their kilts and pronouncing the names of Welsh towns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="7164" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T02:39:00.427" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T02:39:00.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25728" CreationDate="2015-08-16T21:32:05.133" Score="1" ViewCount="873" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent declares and attack with a Nekroz holding Nekroz of Decisive Armor in hand. Can I wait until the damage step to special summon and then tribute Juragedo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Juragedo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During either player's Battle Step: You can Special Summon this card&#xA;  from your hand, and if you do, gain 1000 LP. You can only use this&#xA;  effect of &quot;Juragedo&quot; once per turn. During either player's turn: You&#xA;  can Tribute this card, then target 1 face-up monster you control; it&#xA;  gains 1000 ATK until the end of the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nekroz of Decisive Armor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During either player's turn: You can discard this card, then target 1&#xA;  &quot;Nekroz&quot; monster you control; it gains 1000 ATK and DEF until the end&#xA;  of this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make this as valuable a resource as possible please try and provide detailed reasoning behind your answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastEditorUserId="7745" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T12:23:36.253" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T12:23:36.253" Title="What is the very last step that Juragedo can be special summoned and tributed" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29612" CreationDate="2015-08-16T21:39:41.137" Score="2" ViewCount="1317" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I SS Juragedo during the battle step, does it always cause a replay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During either player's Battle Step: You can Special Summon this card&#xA;  from your hand, and if you do, gain 1000 LP. You can only use this&#xA;  effect of &quot;Juragedo&quot; once per turn. During either player's turn: You&#xA;  can Tribute this card, then target 1 face-up monster you control; it&#xA;  gains 1000 ATK until the end of the next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastEditorUserId="22373" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:49:10.867" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:49:10.867" Title="Does Juragedo always cause a replay?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25622" CreationDate="2015-08-17T09:00:25.517" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; Further to Toon Krijthe's answer, there are a number of cards that have been adjusted for cultural resonance, particularly with local stereotypes and common words..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base games are freely available as PDFs to print an play (indeed, this is how the game gained popularity) on &lt;a href=&quot;https://cardsagainsthumanity.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their website&lt;/a&gt;. You can compare the &lt;a href=&quot;http://s3.amazonaws.com/cah/CAH_MainGame.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;US edition&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://s3.amazonaws.com/cah/CAH_MainGame_UK.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;UK edition&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://s3.amazonaws.com/cah/CAH_MainGame_AU.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Australian edition&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below are the differences I've found, up to and including page 11. Probably some of these will show up later in the document in the other side, and some are just spelling changes, but they serve to illustrate the changes between the editions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;WARNING - ADULT LANGUAGE WITHIN:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards unique to the US edition:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; Women in yogurt commercials.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Getting naked and watching Nickelodeon.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A bleached asshole.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Inserting a mason jar into my anus.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Court-ordered rehab.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Bingeing and purging.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The hardworking Mexican.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Boogers.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Tempur-Pedic® Swedish Sleep System™.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Skeletor.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Figgy pudding.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Advice from a wise, old black man.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Five-Dollar Footlongs™.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Chunks of dead hitchhiker.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A ball of earwax, semen, and toenail clippings.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Dick Cheney.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Amish.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The rhythms of Africa.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Pedophiles.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Sarah Palin.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Feeding Rosie O'Donnell.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Invading Poland.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Jobs.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Boy Scouts of America.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Care Bear Stare.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Mr. Clean, right behind you.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Jewish fraternities.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Hot Pockets®.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Judge Judy.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Robert Downey, Jr.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Trail of Tears.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Friends with benefits.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The invisible hand.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;All-you-can-eat shrimp for $4.99.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Heteronormativity.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Patriarchy.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A sausage festival.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The chronic.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Fiery poops.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;White-man scalps.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The morbidly obese.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;GoGurt®.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Joe Biden.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Hip hop jewels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards unique to the UK edition:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt; Women in yoghurt adverts.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Getting naked and watching CBeebies.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A bleached arsehole.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Used knickers.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The bloody Welsh.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A Super Soaker™ full of cat piss.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Blowing up Parliament.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A Chelsea smile.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Waking up half-naked in a Little Chef car park.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Badger culling.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The sudden appearance of the Go Compare man.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Seeing Granny Naked.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Genuine human connection.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A ginger's freckled ballsack.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Some bloody peace and quiet.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Wiping her bum.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Doing a shit in Pudsey Bear's eyehole.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;England.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Emma Watson.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;My ex-wife.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A Fleshlight.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Madeleine McCann.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A sober Irishman who doesn't care for potatoes.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The North.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;An entrenched class system.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Rubbing Boris Johnson's belly until he falls asleep.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Hillsborough Disaster.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Ripping off the Beatles.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The end of days.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Establishing dominance.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Jedward.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;A madman who lives in a police box and kidnaps women.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The Scouts.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The unstoppable tide of Islam.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Ed Balls.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Saying &amp;quot;I love you.&amp;quot;&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Millwall fans.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Holding down a child and farting all over him.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Penis breath.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Chivalry.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;The cool, refreshing taste of Pepsi.®&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Daniel Radcliffe's delicious arsehole.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Crumbs all over the bloody carpet.&#xA; &lt;br&gt;Not wearing trousers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="13753" LastEditDate="2021-01-17T10:45:18.527" LastActivityDate="2021-01-17T10:45:18.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25611" CreationDate="2015-08-17T11:50:47.437" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 12 on the rules Reference Guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As an action, an investigator can trade any number of possessions with another investigator on his space.  The two investigators may freely give any number of possessions to the other, as long as both investigators agree to this trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's basically telling us that you can trade as many items as you want.  And since each spell is their own piece of cardboard, you can go ahead and trade those back and forth, since there's nothing that says you can't.  Hell, you could trade one clue token for another clue token, since nothing is stopping you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T11:50:47.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25612" CreationDate="2015-08-17T11:56:16.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 6 of the Reference Guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Epic Monsters are treated like Monsters for all effects except as described here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An Epic Monster cannot be defeated by any effect except losing Health equal to or greater than it's toughness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes to the first part, no to the second.  You can't out-right kill an epic monster with a card ability.  You MUST do damage to it.  Though, if a card does damage, you can use it all day long.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, with the expansions, you are able to have things that 'Advance the current Mystery'.  If the Epic Monster is part of the current Mystery, you do three damage to the epic monster for 'Advancing the current Mystery'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T11:56:16.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25613" CreationDate="2015-08-17T12:03:12.170" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 8 of the Reference Guide&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Monster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Monster has lost Health equal to or greater than its toughness, it is defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Monster is defeated or discarded, it is returned to the Monster cup and the cup is randomized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have to encounter something (such as an ambush) on a temporary basis and are able to do enough damage to it in one go to kill it, then it is considered 'defeated'.  However, it does make a distinction here about both 'defeated' and 'discarded'.  This means that, as far as I can tell, there is a precedence about the difference between the two.  So, no, discarding does not equal defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T12:03:12.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25609" CreationDate="2015-08-17T14:07:14.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few separate rolls that aren't based on a trait. Usually, if there's no trait to check it'll tell you how many dice to use. This includes events such as the granny on the telephone and rooms such as the mystic elevator (both 2 dice, from memory).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One common type of roll that doesn't use a trait is the &lt;strong&gt;haunt roll&lt;/strong&gt;, which you roll after each omen card is drawn. As detailed in the general rules, a haunt roll is always 6 dice, and succeeds (doesn't trigger the haunt) if the result is at least the number of omen cards drawn so far. Since you can roll up to 12 on 6 dice, there are 13 omen cards (and omen room tiles) to guarantee that a haunt will always happen eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:07:14.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7142" CreationDate="2015-08-17T14:18:41.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;cant go wrong with   2 m4a3  HQ&#xA;                     5 M4a3  platoon  x3 &#xA;                     4 M10   TD  platoon&#xA;                     3 priest battery  x 2&#xA;                     AOP &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;screw the 76mm sherman  use your brain and detroits finest + smoke wins every games also use patton for REcce deployement  and use youre riest as Assault gun to clear dug in infantry use AOE to counter Ambush ....evrytimes a win  toooooo easy&#xA;use this army on a single front of about 2 feet larger outa the whole 6 foot table break trough lines with speed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13478" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T14:18:41.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25634" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25675" CreationDate="2015-08-17T14:34:13.837" Score="4" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Q&amp;amp;A section of the &quot;rulebook,&quot; questions were asked about how to &quot;handicap&quot; the game in favor of either the Japanese or American player. The answers were to increase the &quot;search&quot; capabilities of the Japanese player, and to allow the American player one or two &quot;B-17&quot; (special bomber) attacks a day. I found these changes unsatisfying, because neither Japanese search capabilities nor B-17 attacks seemed to play a part in the real battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My &quot;handicaps&quot; include the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In favor of the Japanese: Start the game on June 4th rather than June 3rd. This allows Japan to bring three &quot;waves&quot; (out of four) ships on the first turn, with the remaining wave of five ships arriving at 5:00 p.m. the same day, thereby eliminating the &quot;first day&quot; disadvantage encountered by Japan's first wave. This was a plausible scenario that would be an improvement on the plan that Yamamoto actually followed, and would have been a clear &quot;handicap&quot; in Japan's favor, compared to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In favor of the Americans: Triple (or at least double) Midway's plane complement (to 6 torpedo and 18 dive bomber squadrons in the basic game, add 18 fighter squadrons in the advanced game). This reflects the (superior) airpower actually available to the Americans at the beginning of June 3rd. The game totals were actually available on June 4th, after a day of Japanese bombardment, and were intended to create a &quot;play balance&quot; of both sides having similar number of ships and planes on the first day. But a restoration of the actual &lt;em&gt;status quo ante&lt;/em&gt; would have been a &quot;handicap&quot; in favor of the Americans (relative to the game).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use both changes to create a &quot;matchup&quot; of more Japanese ships vs. more American planes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do my &quot;handicaps&quot; improve the game by &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;following history closely &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creating more variety and/or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;creating a &quot;good imbalance&quot; of ships versus planes?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; In answer to another &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25821/can-a-crippled-aircraft-carrier-launch-airplanes-in-midway/25823#25823&quot;&gt;question,&lt;/a&gt; one poster noted that because of the difference in cultures, the Japanese were more likely to launch &quot;suicide&quot; attacks (one way air attacks that did not have enough fuel for the round trip) than the Americans. While the original rules allow both sides to do this, maybe only the Japanese should have this privilege. Would this be a viable &quot;handicap&quot; that is also historically accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T17:05:24.847" Title="Are there good ways to &quot;handicap&quot; Midway?" Tags="|handicap|midway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25505" CreationDate="2015-08-17T15:45:44.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;em&gt;ruds&lt;/em&gt; points out in his answer, the expert treatment here holding game-forcing or better values is to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgewebs.com/ocala/Stayman%20with%20Smolen%20Crawling%20and%20Extended%20Stayman.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Smolen Transfers&lt;/a&gt;. In this case the auction has gone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1NT  pass 2C  pass&#xA;2D   pass  ?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and (with * indicating the alertable transfer calls):&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;2H&lt;/strong&gt; shows game-invitational (only) values with exactly 4 spades and 5+ hearts;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;2S&lt;/strong&gt; shows game-invitational (only) values with exactly 4 hearts and 5+ spades;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;2NT&lt;/strong&gt; 9 points, invitational in NT;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;3C&lt;/strong&gt; game forcing, 5+ (usually 6) clubs, no 4-card major;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;3D&lt;/strong&gt; game-forcing, 5+ (usually 6) diamonds, no 4-card major;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;3H&lt;/strong&gt; * game-forcing, with exactly 4 &lt;em&gt;hearts&lt;/em&gt; and 5+ &lt;em&gt;spades&lt;/em&gt;;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;3S&lt;/strong&gt; * game-forcing, with exactly 4 &lt;em&gt;spades&lt;/em&gt; and 5+ &lt;em&gt;hearts&lt;/em&gt;;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- &lt;strong&gt;3NT&lt;/strong&gt; to play&lt;br&gt;&#xA;etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With less than game-invitational values you have fewer choices, and tougher decisions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding 22 distribution in the minors and a weak 5-card major it is probably best to pass and just play 1NT. If the opponents come in they may get a nasty shock from the unfavourable distribution waiting them in the majors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 31 or 40 distribution (either way) in the minors or a strong 5-card major you should simply transfer into your 5-card major and pass partner's rebid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a bust three-suited hand, short in clubs, it is possible to play Garbage Stayman and simply pass partner's response to 2C. Unless playing Matchpoints I would not recommend this without 5 diamonds and 4-3 or 3-4 in the majors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is possible to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgehands.com/C/Crawling_Stayman.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crawling Stayman&lt;/a&gt; over partner's 2D response, but this will cost you precision in game-invitational auctions; it is strictly a Matchpoints convention, where part-score auctions are of increased importance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T15:45:44.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8281" CreationDate="2015-08-17T17:10:46.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An important and often overlooked datum for this situation is that Opening Leader has &lt;strong&gt;declined&lt;/strong&gt; to lead the suit with the important Ace. Of many possible reasons for this decision, two are that he held the Ace in question, or was actually void in the suit. As &lt;strong&gt;both&lt;/strong&gt; of these indicate a slightly increased probability of the interesting Ace being in his partner's hand, you should play fort the Ace to be held by the partner of Opening Leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the longer you can delay making the decision, the more information you will have about the opponent's distribution. This information will often dwarf the subtle inference above, but not always; in those situations you buy yourself an additional 1% or 2% by playing as recommended.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-08-17T17:10:46.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25638" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25649" CreationDate="2015-08-17T18:33:47.313" Score="2" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Ezekiel, Grand Master of Librarians, which is a dark angels HQ and I have a grey knight army. Can I use Ezekiel as my HQ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13482" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T18:29:19.767" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:27:54.360" Title="In warhammer 40k can I combines these armies?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25639" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25673" CreationDate="2015-08-17T21:38:14.943" Score="3" ViewCount="3415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get into Shadows of Brimstone, but I've heard that there's a part during setup where you configure how hard the adventure is going to be.  I'm a little bit put off by that.  I worry that, when/if I win, it'll feel like I only won because I made the game too easy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing I liked about Pathfinder Adventure Card Game is that it comes with a little campaign: it tells you to play these scenarios, in this order, with these special rules attached to each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything like that (perhaps fan-created) for Shadows of Brimstone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-08-17T21:47:12.003" LastActivityDate="2018-07-11T22:46:09.160" Title="Are there any fan-created campaigns for Shadows of Brimstone?" Tags="|house-rules|shadows-of-brimstone|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25642" CreationDate="2015-08-18T00:59:42.253" Score="6" ViewCount="1738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say Player 1 has the Parasitic Tentacles card, which allows purchase of cards from other players for energy value. Player 2 has Monster Batteries, with some amount of energy on it (which was doubled and then recouped two energy per turn).... what happens to all the energy if that card is bought?&#xA;Does Player 1 get half of the energy still on the card, and the rest is returned to the bank? Does Player 2 get any of the energy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13486" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T04:46:42.907" Title="buying Monster Batteries w/ Parasitic Tentacles" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25640" CreationDate="2015-08-18T04:46:42.907" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1174750/parasitic-tentacles-and-monster-batteries&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek thread&lt;/a&gt; has a poster who appealed to iello's site and got this response&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The energy cubes that were already on Monster Batteries go back into the bank pile, and the purchaser of Monster Batteries may then use the effect upon purchase.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it seems like whatever cubes are left on there are simply lost to the bank, meaning the longer you can keep that card once you activate it, the better (before someone resets it with Parasitic Tentacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T04:46:42.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25645" CreationDate="2015-08-18T06:41:19.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2802" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't fully get the &quot;before a base scores&quot; mechanic. When a base is about to score, can I use EVERY card I have in my hand that allows me to do something before a base scores? And if that card allows me to place a minion which allows me to play another minion when it's put in play can I apply that too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only time I played I was using Ninjas + Zombies and I played the &quot;Hidden Ninja&quot; card on a base that was about to score and used it to play the Zombie King card (at least that's how it's called in Spain, I mean the card with 5 power). The Zombie King card says you can put another minion in play when you play it and I didn't know if it applies in that scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13278" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:02:10.890" Title="Doubts with the &quot;before a base scores&quot; part" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25650" CreationDate="2015-08-18T07:33:05.820" Score="7" ViewCount="1450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a long-time online Spades player who's never played a single hand of Bridge, but I'd love to give it a try sometimes. I've always felt that the games seem rather similar, so I was looking for something like a quick guide to Bridge for Spades players. There's a rather nasty lack of unique search words for this, so I figured I'd ask the community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are Bridge and Spades similar enough that you can learn one from knowing the other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a guide that you can use to learn Bridge, speaking from someone with experience in Spades?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T01:03:26.973" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T03:29:36.787" Title="Bridge guide for experienced Spades player?" Tags="|bridge|teaching|spades|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25643" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:02:10.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use any number of special cards as long as they are relevant. However, some cards have their own limitations on this (e.g. you can only use one Shinobi per base). Any effects those specials generate trigger immediately. However, any extra plays must be used immediately (you can't save them to see what other people do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5-power Zombie Lord says, &amp;quot;You may play an extra minion of power 2 or less from your discard pile on each base where you have no minions.&amp;quot; If you use Hidden Ninja to play the Zombie Lord, you may use its ability. However, this won't typically have a huge immediate impact on the scoring, as you have to play on bases where you don't have minions, and you already have the Zombie Lord on the scoring base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the most recent &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Pretty Pretty Smash Up&lt;/a&gt;, page 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a base has been chosen to score, &lt;strong&gt;each player first gets to use any Special abilities that happen “before” the base scores&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If more than one player wants to use a Special ability, start with the current player and go around the table clockwise until all players pass in sequence (if you pass and another player uses a Special, you can then still choose to use a Special of your own). &lt;strong&gt;If your Special allows you to play extra cards, you must play those immediately or not at all.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:02:10.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25638" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:12:56.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: in the 7th edition of WH40k, you can create an &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; point &lt;em&gt;Unbound&lt;/em&gt; army from any units you have, so yes. (Note that &lt;em&gt;Unbound&lt;/em&gt; armies have some limitations when it comes to holding objectives, etc., so look it up in the rulebook.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longer answer: based on your comment to your question and depending on what rules your game group has on army building, you probably want to create a &lt;em&gt;Battle Forged&lt;/em&gt; army, which you cannot create with the 1500 points of non-HQ &lt;em&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/em&gt; and a &lt;em&gt;Dark Angels&lt;/em&gt; HQ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Dark Angels&lt;/em&gt; can be taken as allies, but as per the rules for taking allies, you need to take the allies in an &lt;em&gt;Allied Detachment&lt;/em&gt; and your main force in a &lt;em&gt;Combined Arms Detachment&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a &lt;em&gt;Combined Arms Detachment&lt;/em&gt; you need, and can have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1-2 HQ&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2-6 Troops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-3 Elites&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-3 Fast Attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-3 Heavy Support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 Fortifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 Lord of War&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you need at least one &lt;em&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/em&gt; HQ for your main detachment. For an &lt;em&gt;Allied Detachment&lt;/em&gt; you need, and can have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 HQ&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1-2 Troops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 Elites&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 Fast Attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;0-1 Heavy Support&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to wield &lt;em&gt;Ezekiel&lt;/em&gt; with your &lt;em&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/em&gt; in an appropriate detachment you would need to take at least one &lt;em&gt;Dark Angels&lt;/em&gt; Troop with him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just playing with your friends, you can probably agree with them that you would both play with 1500p, and you would just not have a HQ. But for more organised games, you need to get a &lt;em&gt;Grey Knights&lt;/em&gt; HQ, but you would only need a single model to make your army follow the rules. After all, every army needs a leader!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12337" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:12:56.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25648" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:27:28.687" Score="7" ViewCount="1963" Body="&lt;p&gt;When using the &lt;em&gt;Traders and Builders&lt;/em&gt; and two players have one city each with their builder in it, and that two cities become one I always asumed that the builders keep working the same way (giving a extra turn for their player). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in one of my recent games it almost happened something that left me wondering: if one of the players sharing that city with two builders has more pawns than the other in it, does that affect the other player's builder or they would keep working like normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13278" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:42:03.213" Title="Carcassonne: two builders on the same city?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25647" CreationDate="2015-08-18T09:42:03.213" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;At any time when the builder is on the table, it functions as documented in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number of builders in a single city does not affect the way in which each builder functions. Nor does the number of knights. Only the active player gets an extra play if he/she extends the road or city. A builder can be deployed even if there are thieves, knights, or builders of other players on the road or city, as long as you have a thief or knight present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the builder is not counted when calculating the majority. This is because the builder is not considered a follower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only if, due to expansions like The Tower or The Dragon, a player's last follower is removed from a road or city, the builder will no longer function. At this point, you're supposed to return it to your supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T09:42:03.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25638" CreationDate="2015-08-18T10:19:13.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could always take Ezekiel and say he counts as a Grey Knights librarian. Remember they are your models, and you can paint them how you like. Nobody can object because you used a slightly different model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T10:19:13.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25644" CreationDate="2015-08-18T11:53:07.400" Score="7" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The two games have some similarities. But they have a lot of differences too. Spades is a lot simpler, and so going from Bridge to Spades is relatively easy. Going from Spades to Bridge, well you're slightly ahead of the curve in having played a trick-based partnership game, but there is still a &lt;em&gt;lot&lt;/em&gt; of other stuff to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, any general introduction to Bridge would work for you. The bidding in Bridge bears absolutely no relation to bidding in Spades - this is the part you'll need to learn (and hence the section of the guide you want to pay attention to) - there are a lot of conventions to learn. The gameplay is relatively similar in Bridge, but a) there is a &lt;em&gt;dummy hand&lt;/em&gt; which is controlled by his partner (&lt;em&gt;declarer&lt;/em&gt;), and everyone can see it; and b) players know a lot more about other people's hands because the auction/bidding has a lot more detail than in Spades.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T11:53:07.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25644" CreationDate="2015-08-18T14:45:25.723" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may find the jump from Spades to Contract Bridge much larger than you expect. However the popularity of (generic) &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_contract_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt; pre-dates the invention of Contract Bridge by Harold Stirling Vanderbilt in 1925. If you have a gaming group interested in advancing their card-play skills together, you might consider jumping first to one of the antecedent games from the turn of the Twentieth century, the games that initially inspired early stars such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Stayman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sam Stayman&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oswald_Jacoby&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oswald Jacoby&lt;/a&gt;. In chronological order (and thus also in order of increasing complexity):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/whist/199.php?page_id=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Whist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auction_bridge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auction&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/auction-bridge/192.php?page_id=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bridge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.britannica.com/topic/Plafond-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plafond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as well as a more recent related game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bicyclecards.ca/game-rules/bid-whist/200.php?page_id=32&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bid Whist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Laws-of-Rubber-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laws of Contract Bridge&lt;/a&gt; are straightforward, at least until you have to deal with irregularities, that is not the source of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn_page/how-to-play-bridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the game's complexity&lt;/a&gt;. Many great minds have worked over the past century developing increasingly complex bidding systems and conventions, and one must know at least one of these in substantial detail before setting foot in Bridge Club or Tournament with intent to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when your group decides to jump into Contract Bridge, you could do substantially worse than to use an old reference by either &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ely_Culbertson&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ely Culbertson&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Goren&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Charles Goren&lt;/a&gt;.  Both of them were extremely accomplished players from the early days of Contract Bridge, and wrote extensively to popularize the game.  Both advocated a natural bidding style with similar features (which came to be called &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;approach-forcing&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;), the main difference being the use of the more accurate &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_evaluation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Work Point Count&lt;/a&gt; by Goren to replace &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmontonbridge.ca/Crosby_files/Coaches%20Corner/Hand%20Evaluation/HCPS/Hand%20Evaluation%20-%20HCPS%20(%20Culbertson%20).htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Culbertson's&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edmontonbridge.ca/Crosby_files/Coaches%20Corner/Hand%20Evaluation%20-%20Quick%20Tricks.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Quick Trick&lt;/a&gt; hand assessment. Old copies of their books are still available at used book stores now and then at very reasonable prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many national and other bridge organizations also publish guides on &lt;em&gt;How to Play Bridge&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn_page/how-to-play-bridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;How to Play Bridge - American Contract Bridge League&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/1a00.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Learn to Play Bridge - by Richard Pavlicek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Online Bridge Lessons from BridgeBase.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comments being ephemeral and all that, the astute comment below by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/32310/mycroft&quot;&gt;Mycroft&lt;/a&gt; is here reproduced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To emphasise a point mentioned, but not really pointed out, in the answer - DO NOT try to learn Bridge by reading the Laws. Unlike many board and card games, they don't even give an idea of how to play - as stated, the language(s) of bidding are necessary to even start play, and nothing in the Laws explains what things mean - just who can decide what they're allowed to mean. In this respect, it would be more like learning to play hockey by reading the NHL rulebook. In both cases, it's a tool for referees rather than an introduction to the game - very useful for veterans, but not newbies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2021-04-15T03:29:36.787" LastActivityDate="2021-04-15T03:29:36.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24642" CreationDate="2015-08-18T15:33:05.810" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the revised English language appendix (page A5), it states (all bold and italics in the original)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When building&lt;/strong&gt; the State parlor, &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(and only once)&lt;/em&gt; get 2 Food from the general supply for each Dwelling that is &lt;em&gt;(horizontally or vertically)&lt;/em&gt; adjacent to the State parlor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This unambiguously indicates that later dwellings do not provide a further 2 Food bonus. The same language is used for the milking and weaving parlors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10186" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T15:33:05.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25653" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2015-08-18T15:56:12.580" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes i know its name its &quot;Bhabhi Thulla&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13494" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T15:56:12.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25654" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:10:34.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Lifeboat&lt;/em&gt; is a card game about people on a lifeboat vying for supplies before they reach land. It was first published in English in 2002 by Fat Messiah Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T20:29:12.630" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:29:12.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25655" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:10:34.860" Score="0" Body="A card game about people on a lifeboat vying for supplies before they reach land." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T20:29:23.860" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:29:23.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25656" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:12:19.447" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gears of War: The Board Game&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative game based on the video game of the same name. It was first published by Fantasy Flight Games in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T20:29:45.790" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:29:45.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25657" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-18T18:12:19.447" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game based on the video game of the same name." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T20:29:28.583" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:29:28.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25658" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T20:26:30.387" Score="4" ViewCount="3582" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the description of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suppression%20Bonds&quot;&gt;Suppression Bonds&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant non land permanent. Enchanted permanent can't attack or block,&#xA;and it's activated abilities can't be activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card doesn't use the word target so basically I was confused on whether or not I could use it on a creature with shroud. Any clarification is welcome and appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. If it can enchant a creature with shroud using this method, could I also use other cards that do not specifically target a creature with shroud?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13368" LastEditorUserId="7948" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T20:53:33.123" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T10:18:35.113" Title="Can The Card &quot;Suppression Bonds&quot; enchant a creature with Shroud" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:22:22.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25658" CreationDate="2015-08-18T20:30:43.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppression Bonds is an Aura and as such, it targets as per the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;303.4a&lt;/strong&gt; An Aura spell requires a target, which is defined by its enchant ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T20:30:43.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25658" CreationDate="2015-08-18T20:35:16.027" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on how you are enchanting the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are casting the spell then no, you cannot enchant a creature with shroud. This is because aura spells target while they are on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.1b&lt;/strong&gt; Aura spells are always targeted. These are the only permanent spells with targets. An Aura’s target is specified by its enchant keyword ability (see rule 702.5, “Enchant”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the aura is entering the battlefield due to some ability or spell just putting it there (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Starfield%20of%20Nyx&quot;&gt;Starfield of Nyx&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability) you can put it on a creature with shroud, because the aura is not on the stack, therefore it doesn't target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;303.4f&lt;/strong&gt; If an Aura is entering the battlefield under a player’s control by any means other than by resolving as an Aura spell, and the effect putting it onto the battlefield doesn’t specify the object or player the Aura will enchant, that player chooses what it will enchant as the Aura enters the battlefield. The player must choose a legal object or player according to the Aura’s enchant ability and any other applicable effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T13:57:46.550" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T13:57:46.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25661" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-18T21:45:05.620" Score="1" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kor%20Spiritdancer&quot;&gt;Kor Spiritdancer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mesa%20Enchantress&quot;&gt;Mesa Enchantress&lt;/a&gt; under my control. They have two similar abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kor Spiritdancer:&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever you cast an Aura spell, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mesa Enchantress:&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever you cast an enchantment spell, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I now cast an &lt;strong&gt;Enchantment — Aura&lt;/strong&gt; card, do I draw two cards or one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13498" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T11:08:49.240" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T11:08:49.240" Title="Do the draw abilities of Kor Spiritdancer and Mesa Enchantress stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ClosedDate="2015-08-19T16:37:37.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25661" CreationDate="2015-08-18T22:29:23.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can draw 2 cards. When you cast an Aura spell, then 2 separate triggered abilities will trigger. You choose the order in which to put them on the stack (the order doesn't matter in this case), and then you will have 2 separate instances of &quot;you may draw a card&quot; on the stack, which will resolve one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-18T23:25:01.767" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T23:25:01.767" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24915" CreationDate="2015-08-18T22:49:27.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a few we like to play with. Names are a work in progress, and you do have to think through how you combine these roles, some combinations can be unbalanced. Also, for some reason most of these are Good Characters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Oracle (Nimueh)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ability&lt;/strong&gt;: Once per round, (or once at the start of the game), can look at a single characters card.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Best In:&lt;/strong&gt; Large games, where 5 cards isn't enough to know everything.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Options:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If Evil kills Nimueh instead of Merlin, it's a draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of looking at a card, can look at one token a player in a mission has put.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Could be an Evil player as well. Note: This requires some balancing, because otherwise seeing Merlin's card is an instant win. Best is Oracle has separate win conditions: Wins by Failing Enough Missions, but Loses if Merlin dies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;King Arthur&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ability:&lt;/strong&gt; At the start of the game, reveals his card. Is a Good player.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Best In:&lt;/strong&gt; Smaller games, where his help in winning missions is cancelled out by making it easier to guess who Merlin is.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Options:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Limited number of missions he can take part in. (One or Two is best)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he is on a losing mission, can no longer join missions. (Or, Good loses)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Witch&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ability:&lt;/strong&gt; Once per game, can change a Fail token to Success. However, the next turn, one Success Token is changed to Fail&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Best In:&lt;/strong&gt; Any game, but can be a bit OP in combo with Arthur.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Options:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sees tokens first, then changes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can also change a Success to Fail first, and then change a Fail to Success at any later turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is an extra assigned role, meaning may be a Good or Evil character, or and one with another Role.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cupid&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ability:&lt;/strong&gt; At the start of the game, chooses two people to be lovers. Lovers see each others Character Cards. If Good falls in love with Evil, then the Good player wins if Evil does.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Best In:&lt;/strong&gt; Any game&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Options:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead of a Cupid character, start with a random pairing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evil converts to Good because of love.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Sir Robin&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ability:&lt;/strong&gt; Is a Good Player, but can only play Fail Tokens.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Best In:&lt;/strong&gt; Random Roles, i.e there may or may not be a Sir Robin in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Rat&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ability:&lt;/strong&gt; Is an Evil Player. When included in a mission, after all tokens have been played, the rat can look at the tokens and change his if he wants.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Best In:&lt;/strong&gt; Medium to Large games, where he won't be able to use his ability too many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-18T22:49:27.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25664" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:22:13.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Evil Baby Orphanage&lt;/em&gt;  card game about time travel and controlling an orphanage of the history's worst villains as babies. It was first published in 2012 by Wyrd Miniatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T04:10:02.680" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T04:10:02.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25665" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:22:13.000" Score="0" Body="A card game about time travel and controlling an orphanage of the history's worst villains as babies." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T04:10:07.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T04:10:07.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25666" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:24:07.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Dust Warfare&lt;/em&gt; is a collectible miniatures wargame set in an alternate history World War II influenced by alien technology. It was first published in 2012 by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T04:09:55.730" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T04:09:55.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25667" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:24:07.883" Score="0" Body="A collectible miniatures wargame set in an alternate history World War II influenced by alien technology." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-08-19T04:10:11.350" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T04:10:11.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25672" CreationDate="2015-08-19T02:30:47.017" Score="4" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is a followup of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8986/first-auction-power-plant-in-power-grid&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say, we have A, B C and D again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First round:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If A chooses Power plant, but D wins, then A will initiate another auction.&#xA;Again when A chooses Power plant, but C wins, then A will initiate yet another auction.&#xA;Looks like A has a slight adavantage here - it can potentially force others to bid higher for a power plant, or trick them into buying plants which it does not intend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If A passes during an auction which it started, does it still get the option to initiate the next auction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Subsequent rounds:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If A chooses Power plant, D wins, who initiates the auction again? A or B?&#xA;If A initiates, then how is a subsequent round is any different from the first round?&#xA;If B initiates, does this mean A never gets the chance to initiate an auction again in this round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T21:32:11.787" Title="Power Grid: Auction in following rounds" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25669" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-19T03:24:06.237" Score="8" ViewCount="3333" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game of gin rummy when I knocked for a non-zero amount. As I laid out my cards, I noticed that I could have rearranged to cards and gone gin. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now this isn't a question about whether or not changing my declaration of knock to gin was in the spirit of &lt;strong&gt;fairness&lt;/strong&gt;, just whether or not it is allowed by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We consulted &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gin_rummy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; on gin rummy, read the section on knocking, and found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a player knocks or declares gin the round is over and scores are tallied, players cannot draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The purpose of this sentence could be interpreted as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saying that when either knocking or declaring gin, the had is over and &lt;strong&gt;a declaration cannot be changed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OR simply that the sentence is trying to point out that a draw is no longer possible at this point&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OR both (the two are not, necessarily, mutually exclusive)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The knocking section does not seem to state clearly whether or not a knock hand can be changed to gin if the knocking player realizes their mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to add spice to this question, the interpretation of the rules is especially important, because the defending player, had I only knocked, would have been able to undercut me. So it wasn't just a question of whether I was going to receive X or Y points, it was a question of whether I would win the hand or be undercut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not looking for opinions, as we could create our own house rule out of this scenario going forward. Looking for any kind of official reference on the matter if one exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13502" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2019-06-18T18:59:21.497" LastActivityDate="2019-06-18T18:59:21.497" Title="If you knock, but actually have a gin hand, is it valid to change it after you've knocked?" Tags="|gin-rummy|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25669" CreationDate="2015-08-19T04:02:08.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sequence of play should be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You knock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You announce your count (or gin)&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can do this silently by laying down your cards organized with the extras clearly off to the side in an unmatched group.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent lays out there hand, laying off on your cards if you didn't gin.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important questions are then - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did you announce a count?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Did your opponent begin laying down their hand?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd announced a count, you're stuck with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hadn't, and your opponent laid down their hand, they've jumped the gun a bit and you should be allowed to reorganize and formally announce your count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://rummytalk.com/2007/04/20/the-rules-of-the-knock/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules on RummyTalk&lt;/a&gt; don't address this directly, but the above is how I've played in tournaments (admittedly just local (&amp;lt;100 people) tournaments.  Obviously you'd want to bring in the official to get the ruling directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-21T15:40:15.310" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T15:40:15.310" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25668" CreationDate="2015-08-19T04:08:51.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all of your cases A chooses the next power plant. &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=698&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; are quite clear: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player other than the player who started&#xA;   the auction wins the auction, the auctioning player may choose a new plant to auction from the actual market or pass&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A will keep putting power plants up for bid until either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A wins a power plant auction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A passes (and is out for the entire phase, they will not get a power plant this turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, that when choosing a power plant A must make the first bid for at least the minimum printed on the power plant card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T04:08:51.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25668" CreationDate="2015-08-19T05:13:33.493" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you are mixing different uses of the word &quot;round&quot;. When the rules say &quot;Exception: In the first round of the game, each player must buy a power plant&quot; it means round as in a full round of the game, where there's auction, resource buying, etc. But you seem to be using round to mean a round of the action phase, where 1 plant is auctioned off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the very first round of the game, the player whose turn it is to pick a plant is not allowed to pass. He must pick a plant to bid on. In later rounds, if it is your turn to pick a plant for auction, you can pass instead, in which case you do not get to buy a plant at all until the next game round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you pass in the middle of a specific auction for a specific plant, that just means you can no longer bid on that plant. You can still bid on the next plant to be auctioned, or pick a plant yourself when your turn comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T05:13:33.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25639" CreationDate="2015-08-19T09:06:11.967" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both City of the Ancients and Swamps of Death (the two base game sets available) include an adventure book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each adventure book features 12 missions, the first six of which are the same in both books, and then the last six are specific to the setting. They can be played through as a campaign or as individual missions, supposedly getting harder as they progress (I have only played the first three so far so can't really comment on the difficulty of later missions).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the setup phase where you determine the &quot;difficulty&quot; of the game, it is not a choice of easy/medium/hard etc. It is a scale based on the number of heroes, which defines the general number/difficulty of monsters and the number of revives you can use when heroes are knocked out. This scale is more about balance for the number of players than a way to actually increase/decrease the difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can of course choose to make things harder or easier by changing the number of revive tokens or the Threat deck you draw from, but so far I have found the suggested difficulty to be reasonably well balanced and have lost just as often as I have won, although I have so far only played with 1, 4 or 5 players so can't really speak about the balance of 2, 3 or 6 player games, but the progression seems reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T09:06:11.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25658" CreationDate="2015-08-19T14:22:35.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an answer to your main question, see Diego's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to your P.s., yes shroud only prevents the creature from being targeted - nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Diabolic Edict&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=97117&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prahv, Spires of Order&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=180600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sovereigns of Lost Alara&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quest%20for%20the%20Holy%20Relic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quest for the Holy Relic&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=391785&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bolster&lt;/a&gt; do not target creatures and all work against or with a creature with shroud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally things that specify 'all' of something, or things that target players can effect creatures with shroud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cards, like Clone that say 'choose' rather than target, or that do things to specific cards without using the word 'target' like Sovereigns of Lost Alara - for these, if the card is older, it is generally worth double checking, as it may have had errata like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?printed=true&amp;amp;multiverseid=97&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blue Elemental Blast&lt;/a&gt; which on the printed card doesn't mention targeting, but has had errata to include that word*, but other than these older cards with errata you can generally choose or select a creature with shroud, so long as the card doesn't target and you aren't casting an aura or equipping an equipment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;N.b.&lt;/strong&gt; Generally these cards also get around protection - Clone or Wrath of God for example ignore protection just as they ignore shroud, that said Diego's specific example (getting an enchantment on to a battlefield without casting it) doesn't get around protection like it does shroud. (Protection prevents Damage, Enchanting, Blocking and Targeting - providing the handy acronym DEBT - from anything that meets the criteria it has protection from; The classic example is that even &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179496&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; is killed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220139&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Day of Judgement&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270798&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclonic Rift&lt;/a&gt; cannot effect a creature with shroud because it tries to target the creature, unless it is Overloaded, in which case it no longer targets and it instead effects 'each creature you don't control', rather than 'target creature you don't control'. You can see this verified in the first and second rulings on Gatherer for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270798&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cyclonic Rift&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Generally done to preserve the original intended functionality following a rule change. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13096" LastEditorUserId="13096" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T10:18:35.113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T10:18:35.113" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25634" CreationDate="2015-08-19T17:55:06.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the edition (60s or 90s), you can handicap &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; the Japanese by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;60s:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allow Japanese player to start a day (or partial day) sooner than the American player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;90s:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;allow Japanese player to bring forces onto the board closer to Midway (ie, shorten the time available to sink them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Handicapping &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; the American player really isn't needed in the 60s edition, since all you have to do is kill the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; (iirc). You might be able to add an additional search zone, but that'd be pretty minimal, in my experience. The only other thing I could think of would be to force carrier battle groups to not combine / join-up (or force them to all sail together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the 90s edition, you could handicap &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; the Americans by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;shortening the Japanese search distance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;adding a searchable zone to the American side &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic rules (ie, no CAP, no funky optional rules, etc) make it more-or-less impossible for the Japanese player to guarantee victory, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; they hide their &quot;flag ship&quot; &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; well and don't attack until they're right atop Midway (don't even search - just go full steam ahead).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you add CAP, optional rules, and other variants, any form of &quot;handicapping&quot; is going to be pretty hit-or-miss, in my experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players have read the rules, the Americans are handed a whopping big advantage in that they &quot;know&quot; where the fleet is coming from - and while a game has to make some changes to make it playable, the historical battle didn't provide that much information (which makes the 90s version better (plus it uses hexes instead of squares (which means planes can fly more &quot;realistic&quot; paths, instead of having to convert 5 diagonal squares into 7 straight ones (the distance being nearly equal) for out-bound and in-bound operations))).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="180" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T19:11:07.277" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T19:11:07.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25677" CreationDate="2015-08-19T19:24:00.980" Score="8" ViewCount="1714" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am playing in a tournament and I win the first game of the round, when does my opponent decide if they will play first? Does it happen before side boarding or does it take place some time after presenting your deck for shuffle? If REL matters please specify the differences at various REL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T19:30:42.133" Title="When does my opponent have to tell me if they will play first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25676" CreationDate="2015-08-19T19:30:42.133" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You must decide before looking at your first hand of the game, it can be after sideboarding. If you do not choose it is assumed you will play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_17jul15_en_0.pdf&quot;&gt;Magic Tournament Rules 2.2&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the first game of a match, the winner of a random method (such as a die roll or coin toss) chooses either to&#xA;  play first or to play second. The winner must state this choice before looking at his or her hand. If the winner&#xA;  states no choice, it is assumed that he or she is playing first. The player who plays first skips the draw step of his&#xA;  or her first turn. This is referred to as the play/draw rule.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After each game in a match, the loser of that game decides whether to play first in the next game. They may wait&#xA;  until after sideboarding to make the decision. If the previous game was a draw, the player who decided to play or&#xA;  draw at the beginning of the drawn game chooses.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-08-19T19:30:42.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25669" CreationDate="2015-08-19T19:56:07.553" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to note that knocking and going gin are not mutually exclusive. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/ginrummy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Knocking with no unmatched cards at all is called going gin [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gin_rummy#Knocking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Knocking with 0 points of deadwood is known as going Gin or having a Gin hand [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you announced a zero count&lt;/strong&gt;, then you have gone gin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you announced a non-zero count&lt;/strong&gt;, then you are stuck with the count that you announced and cannot take it back. Your opponent may proceed to lay off cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you did not announce a count&lt;/strong&gt;, but you have arranged your cards into matched and unmatched groups, then your count is the total of the unmatched cards, and it is too late to change your mind. If you are still in the process of arranging your cards, then your count is not finalized yet, and you can still change your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T03:21:33.110" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T03:21:33.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25679" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-20T13:31:10.093" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T13:31:10.093" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T13:31:10.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25680" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-20T13:31:10.093" Score="0" Body="3-6 Greek gods (players) manipulate the wind in an attempt to control the path of Odysseus across the mediterranean sea." OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-20T20:06:56.367" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T20:06:56.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12634" CreationDate="2015-08-20T14:10:38.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have said, yes, the ability will exist twice on each of your Sliver creatures, and each of those creatures will trigger it twice upon attacking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In what situations would a creature be allowed to have two copies of the same ability (if ever)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no limit to the number of copies of the same ability a creature can have. They are each added to the list of things that creature can do, and triggered abilities will each trigger separately. If you have 4 Thorncaster Slivers on the field, each sliver's attack will cause it to deal 1 damage 4 times. Notably, this allows you to distribute your damage however you like--you are not limited to dealing damage in packets of 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't mean that multiple copies of the same ability are always &lt;em&gt;useful&lt;/em&gt;. For example, it's stated in the rules that multiple copies of flying, haste, lifelink, and many other keyword abilities are redundant, so a creature that gains flying twice doesn't have any advantages over a creature that has it once, and a creature with two instances of lifelink doesn't gain you twice as much health (although cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Armadillo%20Cloak&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Armadillo Cloak&quot;&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/a&gt;, which don't use the keyword but have similar effects, will stack with lifelink). &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/rule/702-keyword-abilities.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;See this list&lt;/a&gt; for which abilities stack and which don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also worth noting that in cases where the duplicated abilities have a cost, such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205231&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Prodigal Pyromancer&lt;/a&gt; being enchanted with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130530&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arcane Teachings&lt;/a&gt;, it doesn't simply increase the effectiveness of the ability. Prodigal Pyromancer will have 2 copies of the &quot;{t}: deal 1 damage&quot; ability, but each of those costs must be paid separately--tapping once will allow you to activate either the innate ability or the one granted by the enchantment, but not both. Triggered abilities which have a cost (e.g. &quot;When X happens, you may pay Y. If you do, Z.&quot;) must also be paid for separately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T14:10:38.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25683" CreationDate="2015-08-20T20:07:13.673" Score="4" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a card that I have to trash another card to use, can I trash a card that has a paid ability where the cost is to trash the card, and then activate the paid ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider Trade-In and Cortez Chip (emphasis mine).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trade-In:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As an additional cost to play this event, &lt;strong&gt;trash an installed piece&#xA;  of hardware.&lt;/strong&gt; Gain credits equal to half the install cost of the&#xA;  trashed hardware (rounded down) and search your stack for a piece of&#xA;  hardware, reveal it, and add it to your grip. Shuffle your stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cortez Chip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Trash]&lt;/strong&gt;: Choose a piece of ice. The Corp must pay 2[Credits] as an&#xA;  additional cost to rez that ice until the end of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming I had a Cortez Chip in play, could I play Trade-In and trash Cortez Chip, and use the effects of both cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13439" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T21:56:14.337" Title="Trashing two birds with one stone" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25682" CreationDate="2015-08-20T21:56:14.337" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Once the first paid ability is triggered, it resolves completely before another paid ability can be triggered. The exceptions are &quot;prevent&quot; and &quot;avoid&quot; abilities. So, in your example either ability will result in the Cortez Chip being in the Heap and no longer installed before you could possibly trigger the other ability. The specific text from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; that applies:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once an ability is triggered, its effect is resolved immediately and&#xA;  can only be stopped by prevent or avoid effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2015-08-20T21:56:14.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25685" CreationDate="2015-08-20T23:18:57.863" Score="14" ViewCount="4228" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I draw a &quot;Go Up A Level&quot; card, is it automatically played/applied right away or do I have the option to hold it in my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask for a more specific reason, because I drew a &quot;Go Up A Level&quot; card with the restriction that I could not be the player of the highest level or tied with the highest level. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13523" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T00:42:19.250" Title="Go Up A Level cards" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25684" CreationDate="2015-08-21T00:42:19.250" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can keep 'Go Up A Level' cards in your hand until you choose to play them, you do not have to play them right away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Munchkin Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go Up a Level cards may be played on yourself or any other player at any time, even during combat. Discard them once they are played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you can play them during combat you do not have to use them immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T00:42:19.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25693" CreationDate="2015-08-21T11:29:52.587" Score="6" ViewCount="2112" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two most recent expansions for Eldritch Horror have introduced the &quot;advance the active mystery&quot; effect that makes it possible to make progress on the mysteries via other channels. How this works with the normal mysteries, drawn from the Ancient One's mystery deck, is clear enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But does this also apply to an AO's &lt;em&gt;final mystery&lt;/em&gt;, on the AO card's backside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During last night's game we had successfully completed all the necessary 'normal' mysteries and were dealing with Syzygy's final mystery when an encounter card instructed us to &quot;advance the active mystery&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two possible interpretations were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Advance the final mystery as it is the one we are actively trying to solve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The final mystery is a special case and can not be viewed as an &lt;em&gt;active mystery&lt;/em&gt;, that title referring only to the &quot;normal&quot; mysteries.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, we resolved this by applying the rule &quot;when not sure about a rule, interpret it in the manner least beneficial to the investigators&quot;. I.e. we went with #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that Syzygy always requires you to resolve the final mystery, this is very likely to come up again. It would thus by very nice to know if there is an official ruling on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T18:07:59.103" Title="Does &quot;advance the active mystery&quot; apply to an AO's final mystery?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25686" CreationDate="2015-08-21T11:54:44.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have not seen any actual 'official' ruling on this kind of a thing, but a mystery is a mystery.  I see no reason why a ruling about 'advancing the active mystery' would not allow you to deal with the final mystery in this way.  Given that the mysteries for Syzygy are a bit harder then the other Old Ones, I would rule on the former.  I do not have his sheet with me right now, so I can't comment on it specifically, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T11:54:44.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25101" CreationDate="2015-08-21T14:40:58.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some play-testing with friends, the complexity was intimidating, and so we settled on these rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The last card is dealt face up, and it is the point suit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no trump suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You cannot lead with a point suit until a point suited card has been discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a point suit is led, any other card can trump it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results were interesting: Once players caught on to the game, they would discard points often rather than hording them, hoping their partners can pick them back up.  Teamwork seemed more vital in this variation than any trick taking game I've played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that having a both trump suit AND an anti-trump suit was an unnecessary complication. The goal was to acquire point-cards which could be trumped by any card, and so having a trump suit felt superfluous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, we played the following variation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The trump suit is the last card dealt, the point suit is the other&#xA;  suit of the same color as the trump suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The point suit cannot be led until a point suited card has been&#xA;  discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The point suit is a normal suit, and is not trumped by  any suit&#xA;  except the Trump suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This variation worked well, and it satisfied my requirement that the game make use of the fact that there are four suits but only two colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the first variation in this answer seemed more fun.  I'm not sure why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13116" LastActivityDate="2015-08-21T14:40:58.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23325" CreationDate="2015-08-22T00:09:40.453" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play with a large group of people (5+) when we play Planechase, and we have a runnning rule: after 2 null rolls, you flip a coin and call it for either planar or chaos. While it assures an eventual result for spending the mana, it also limits the ability to spend it freely to achieve a result by placing a 50% chance at the end, which can be devastating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&#xA;null roll 1 (Player 1) = nothing happens&#xA;null roll 2 (player 1) = nothing happens&#xA;Chaos roll (Player 1) = Chaos event happens&#xA;null roll 3 (Player 1) = coin flip for chaos or walk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13538" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T00:09:40.453" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25686" CreationDate="2015-08-22T04:35:36.773" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: looks like Kris found an official reference that shows the final mystery clarified to not be a normal active mystery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the difference between epic monsters and non-epic monsters as a guiding example. Usually when you have a is-a relationship between two things, &lt;strong&gt;especially&lt;/strong&gt; when the object A in the A is a B relationship outright contains the name of B within it, I tend to strongly favor applying all rules governing B toward governing A as well except where explicitly stated. That is, all rules governing monsters should be used for Epic monsters except where explicitly stated otherwise. Shub-Niggurath's mystery where you have to accumulate toughness of non-epic monsters is an example of this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Following this line, the final mystery is a mystery and governed by all the rules and effects pertaining to mysteries except where noted. Any other approach would require a tedious amount of clarification to further include final mysteries in any mention of a mystery. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, until or unless they clarify that the final mystery is not to be considered in this effect, you should consider it a mystery like normal ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-08-22T18:07:59.103" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T18:07:59.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25695" CreationDate="2015-08-22T07:06:53.060" Score="8" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;King of Tokyo: Powerup has an evolution card for Meka Dragon called Mecha Blast that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard this Evolution to deal 2 extra damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a discardable card from the main game called High Altitude Bombing which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All monsters (including you) take 3 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can Mecha Blast be played after/during High Altitude Bombing to make it do 5 damage instead of 3 to everyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6443" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T14:23:30.920" Title="In King of Tokyo, how does Mecha Blast interact with High Altitude Bombing?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|king-of-tokyo-power-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25686" CreationDate="2015-08-22T13:46:47.747" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further digging turned up this thread where &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1296806/official-clarifications-response-ffgnikki-valens&quot;&gt;official rule clarifications&lt;/a&gt; from the maker of the game have been gathered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turns out it this has been addressed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;How do the effects &quot;advance/solve the active Mystery&quot; interact with the Final Mystery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Quote :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;The Final Mystery is not the active Mystery. As such, “advance the active Mystery” and “solve the active Mystery” effects will not affect the Final Mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it seems I was correct in how I played it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2015-08-22T13:46:47.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25745" CreationDate="2015-08-22T22:24:58.763" Score="3" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going for a very expensive but hopefully good assault marine setup, but I require advice. The setup is 5 marines total in the squad with one wielding an evicerator, two wielding flamers and the sergeant wielding a power fist, a lightning claw, melta bombs and being a veteran. The cost of this squad comes out to 175 points. My questions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a gross over use of points for an ultimately useless squad and what would be improved in it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As far as I am aware, the box doesn't contain a lightning claw. What would be the best method for getting a single lightning claw to match with the power fist in the box?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T07:51:26.523" Title="Beefy assault marines" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25692" CreationDate="2015-08-22T23:08:51.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the card doesn't specify that the damage has to come from you it's not considered an &quot;attack&quot;. The rules state &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a card deals damage when purchased (like Gas Refinery), this is not&#xA;  considered an attack. Monsters cannot yield Tokyo based on this&#xA;  damage, and cards that affect attacks do not affect these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the Mecha Blast evolution does not specify that it effects an &lt;strong&gt;attack&lt;/strong&gt; and since the rules also state that you can use your evolution cards at any time, then you should be able to add 2 damage to any damage that was dealt. In this case 5 damage would be dealt to everyone, including you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you must be alive at the end of your turn in order to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T14:23:30.920" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T14:23:30.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25697" CreationDate="2015-08-23T08:14:11.713" Score="5" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Pro Tour Magic Origins, Wizards decided to implement a new rule, dubbed the Scry Rule. This rule stated that &lt;strong&gt;after mulligans (if any) had been taken, any player with fewer cards than the original amount of cards in hand is allowed to scry 1 before the game starts.&lt;/strong&gt; This rule seemed to be widely praised by many MTG players, and is to be added to the Comprehensive Rulebook come Battle for Zendikar Pre-release.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are, does this make the game more fair for players who take mulligans? Does this somehow give an advantage to a player who decides to mulligan an iffy hand and draws a better, but not stellar, hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most importantly, &lt;strong&gt;does this new rule change the general mulligan strategy of MTG?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8029" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T08:43:35.930" Title="Does the newly implemented Scry Rule change the way we play Magic: the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mulligans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25696" CreationDate="2015-08-23T08:43:35.930" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, the mulligan strategy is unchanged: you should mulligan when the expected outcome for a mulligan is better than the expected outcome otherwise. The effect of the new rule is in giving a boost to the expected outcome for a mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the rules currently stand (the new scry after mulligan rule will not be implemented until the Battle for Zendikar prerelease), one should mulligan a 7-card hand when the probability of winning is lower than that the expected probability of winning with a random 6-card hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having the option to scry can only improve the probability of winning with a random 6-card hand, because you have the option of leaving the top card on top (yielding the same sequence of draws as if you didn't scry) or putting the top card on the bottom of library (presumably because it is worse than the average card in the deck). Since the expected probability of winning with a random 6-card hand under the new mulligan rule cannot be lower than under the old rule, one would expect more mulligans to take place, because the &quot;cost&quot; of a mulligan is decreased. That is, the threshold for a &quot;bad&quot; 7-card hand is higher than it was before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly how much better a random 6-card hand gets would depend on the particulars of the deck being played. I would guess that very redundant decks (e.g., burn) would benefit little from the new rule because card advantage is more important, whereas decks the rely on strong synergies (e.g., combo) would benefit more from the improved card selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T08:43:35.930" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25698" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T11:57:55.330" Score="2" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I played the X-Wing miniature game and I'd like to find a game that is similar to that,  but not collectible. I don't want to buy lots of ships to play as I like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: As @PhillipKendall suggested, this are some aspects of the game I like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strategic game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squad set up &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unit movement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Possibility of having special skills for each unit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there something like that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13278" LastEditorUserId="13278" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T07:17:56.550" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T07:17:56.550" Title="Games similar to X-Wing?" Tags="|recommendations|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-08-24T15:29:41.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25701" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-23T16:30:13.530" Score="3" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Zombie Fluxx, if you play an Exchange Keepers Card, can you give them a Creeper and they give you a Keeper so you can match the goal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13549" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-23T17:05:09.190" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T17:59:56.917" Title="Exchange Keeper Card" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25701" CreationDate="2015-08-23T17:06:22.957" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, a creeper is not a keeper, it's a different type of card. So it can't be affected by things that affect keepers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T17:06:22.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25701" CreationDate="2015-08-23T17:59:56.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you are exchanging a keeper for a keeper, and a keeper is not a creeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in some varieties of Fluxx (I don't have Zombie myself), certain creepers attach themselves to keeper cards you have on the table.  If that is the case, the creeper follows the keeper.  If you are trading the keeper that has an attached creeper, the other player will take the creeper as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-08-23T17:59:56.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T01:25:28.980" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Online Canasta - I cannot understand how the opponent can&#xA;pick up the discard pile before melding.  I have been melding&#xA;before taking the top card from the discard pile.  They have&#xA;a huge advantage and get all of the good discards before melding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would appreciate the answer --thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13550" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T02:46:54.217" Title="Canasta - 2 Players" Tags="|canasta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25704" CreationDate="2015-08-24T02:46:54.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Canasta (any number of players); you can use the top card of the discard pile as part of your initial meld, but you cannot use the rest. So if you have 2 of a kind in your hand, and your opponent discards a third, you can pick up the pile as long as you meet the requirement for minimum meld points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have that initial meld, you can immediately meld anything else you want, including anything else that was in the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T02:46:54.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4846" CreationDate="2015-08-24T11:34:24.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the most part, you can use any Bohnanza guide to win at Al Cabohne. All you have to take into consideration are the fundamental differences between this game and regular Bohnanza. I'll focus on those:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important difference created with Al Cabohne is in the way the discard pile affects the proceedings of the game. You can get some good value out of the discard pile if you can manage to remember which cards are on there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also something to look out for, if one of the mafia bosses ends up with a bean that you already have, you might not want to harvest them immediately. If your harvest goes onto the discard pile, that's basically the same as giving it to the mafia. If you think you can manage until the mafia harvests their field you can try to get all those cards from the discard pile back onto your field. So unless you really need the space, try to keep these beans on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T11:34:24.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25707" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T18:55:05.610" Score="1" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krenko%2C%20Mob%20Boss&quot;&gt;Krenko, Mob Boss&lt;/a&gt; and retain priority and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swiftfoot%20Boots&quot;&gt;Swiftfoot Boots&lt;/a&gt; on Krenko Mob Boss and at the same time my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unsummon&quot;&gt;Unsummon&lt;/a&gt; on Krenko Mob Boss, will my creature be safe or will he be removed from the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13558" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T19:34:31.413" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T13:06:28.613" Title="Casting a creature and hexproofing" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-priority|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25707" CreationDate="2015-08-24T19:15:55.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell uses the stack just like activating an ability does.  Your opponent will get an opportunity to respond with Unsummon.  Because Unsummon is instant speed, it can be cast when there are other items on the stack.  However, casting an artifact spell or equipping a creature with equipment is a sorcery speed action and therefore can only be cast on your turn when the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you attempt to equip Swiftfoot Boots to a creature.  The equip action actually goes on the stack.  Then your opponent can respond with Unsummon.  The stack will then look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Unsummon&#xA;Equip&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unsummon will then resolve first because it's on top of the stack.  This is before your creature gains hexproof.  Your creature will return to your hand.  The equip action will fizzle because the creature it was targeting no longer is a legal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T19:15:55.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25707" CreationDate="2015-08-24T19:30:36.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Krenko will be returned to your hand. However it should be noted that you cannot cast a Swiftfooot Boots on any creature, you need to have already cast the boots then pay the equip cost to attach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priority doesn't seem to work the way that you think it does, the Unsummon does not happen at the same time as the Equip, it happens in response to it. If you cast Krenko and retain priority you need to then cast an instant (or activate an ability), Krenko will not resolve until all players have passed priority with Krenko being the top thing on the stack. Once Krenko resolves you automatically regain priority (assuming you are the active player), at this point you can activate the Equip ability of the Swiftfoot Boots targeting Krenko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you need to pass priority to your opponent, rather than passing priority back and letting the Equip ability resolve they instead choose to respond with Unsummon also targeting Krenko and pass priority back to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You now have the opportunity to respond with your own spell (or activated ability), and if you choose not to the first item on the stack will resolve, in this case the Unsummon returning Krenko to your hand. Assuming you and your opponent both pass priority again the next thing on the stack will resolve, this time it is the Equip ability. Since the Equip ability no longer has a legal target the ability fizzles and does nothing (if it was attached to a creature prior to activating the ability it will still be attached when the ability is countered).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T19:30:36.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25707" CreationDate="2015-08-24T19:43:40.427" Score="11" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play Krenko Mob Boss and retain priority [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, let's clear up this confusion. If you cast Krenko and retain priority, then Krenko has not resolved. You need to wait until &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; Krenko resolves, at which point you will have priority because you are the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, after Krenko resolves, you decide to equip Swiftfoot Boots to Krenko. Equip is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;activated ability&lt;/a&gt;. That means it will not resolve until all players pass in succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.1. Each time all players pass in succession, the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent may choose not to pass, and cast Unsummon instead. If they do that, then Krenko will be returned to your hand. Then, the equip ability will attempt to resolve, but will fail because Krenko is gone. Here's a little diagram to illustrate the process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;activate ability -&amp;gt; stuff happens -&amp;gt; ability resolves if target is still legal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T13:06:28.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25711" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-24T20:02:53.153" Score="4" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing the Teen Titan's version of the DC building game which focus heavily on &quot;Ongoing&quot; effect cards. Now we came across an scenario that we are not too sure on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now he plays the &quot;Mad Mod&quot; card, (for those of you who are not familiar this is what the card reads)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+2 Power, You may discard an &lt;strong&gt;ONGOING&lt;/strong&gt; card you control. If you do,choose a foe and &lt;strong&gt;ATTACK&lt;/strong&gt;: That foe gaines a &lt;strong&gt;WEAKNESS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say he has 4 ONGOING cards, which leads him to say that he discards all four and i get 4 weakness card. I was under the impression that you could only discard one, but he insist that since it doesn't say &quot;Once Per turn&quot; that he can discard multiple ones and keep activating the &quot;attack&quot; part. I have looked every where online but I have not found an answer to this. There are also other cards that read the same way that you may discard an &quot;Ongoing&quot; card and it does an effect. &#xA;Can these be activated multiple times? or just once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10245" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-24T20:19:16.663" LastActivityDate="2018-01-22T21:28:04.897" Title="Discard Ongoing Card for effect (Mad Mod)" Tags="|dc-comics-deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23817" CreationDate="2015-08-24T21:04:21.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An alternative is to handicap the premium costs for early development&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be implemented for stronger players as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+$1 or +$2 for every spot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+$1 or +$2 for every spot except the last free spot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+$1 or +$2 for every spot except both free spots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or for weaker players as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1 or $2 less for every spot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1 or $2 less for every spot except the last free spot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;$1 or $2 less for every spot except both free spots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick one of these.  I think it would be simplest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2015-08-24T21:04:21.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2015-08-25T02:55:20.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, we tried a method that worked for us (family of 6). Using the original US map we divided up into three teams. Each player was given two cards and could only keep one. There was no &quot;sharing&quot; of information just trains. We each were given 4 train cards to start the game and we were off. New tickets could only be drawn when you finished your original route. Two tickets were drawn and only one could be taken. It made for a very quick and frantic game but was enjoyed by everyone. Since we are all familiar with the routes we could guess our team members goal and help connect our trains quicker. We have played this way a few times and so far no major snags (except when someone gets the track you wanted before you). It was actually a very simple and nice solution to our six player problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13561" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T02:55:20.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4638" CreationDate="2015-08-25T22:13:30.670" Score="-13" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, there is a little rule everyone is forgetting and it is the legal target rule which simply states before a permanent can be destroyed or removed from play it has to be a legal target of a spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b [During resolution, if] the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All spells target, including those with &amp;quot;all&amp;quot; in their text. If a spell states that it does not target, then it cannot destroy anything according to the legal target rule. For a spell to affect a permanent, the permanent must be a legal target for said spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Noxious%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Noxious Ghoul&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Noxious Ghoul or another Zombie enters the battlefield, all non-Zombie creatures get -1/-1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zombies do not get the -1/-1 counter because they are not legal targets of Noxious Ghoul's ability. Basically, because there are legal targets for every spell, spells with &amp;quot;all&amp;quot; target &amp;quot;all&amp;quot; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another basic common sense example is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crux%20of%20Fate&quot;&gt;Crux of Fate&lt;/a&gt;. Crux of Fate offers a choice of either destroying all dragons or destroying all non-dragons, which means means it will either target and destroy all legal target dragons or target and destroy all legal target non-dragons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is basic common sense - if a spell does not &lt;em&gt;target&lt;/em&gt; anything then it does not &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13568" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-08-25T22:45:46.160" LastActivityDate="2015-08-25T22:45:46.160" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25715" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25716" CreationDate="2015-08-26T06:09:22.420" Score="3" ViewCount="2886" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a riffle shuffle with unsleeved cards. Riffle shuffling sleeved cards however is, uh, slightly disastrous as cards frequently get caught in the sleeve openings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What's a good way to shuffle sleeved cards?&lt;/strong&gt; i&#xA;Is there's good riffle technique?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T15:09:20.567" Title="What's a good way to shuffle sleeved cards?" Tags="|shuffling|card-sleeves|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25715" CreationDate="2015-08-26T06:23:14.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;While cards are equally thick across the surface, cards in sleeves are not. They get thinner near the edges. This makes for a very easy faro shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But generally, just make sure you're shuffling the cards along their long edges. This prevents cards falling out of their sleeves and sleeves intertwining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T06:23:14.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25248" CreationDate="2015-08-26T10:33:15.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/file/RAMPAGE_RULES_US.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ultra-Bright(TM) Smile&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of eating the Meeples in your Neighborhood, you can eat the Meeples currently&#xA;on the Runaway board. Then reorganize the Meeples on the Runaway board without&#xA;triggering any effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Side A:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It isn't particularly clear but I think the key phrase  is &amp;quot;Then reorganize the Meeples on the Runaway board without triggering any effects.&amp;quot; That heavily implies that you should follow the normal placement rules (and are safe from re-triggering previously triggered negative effects). The normal placement rules are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the Meeples on the Runaway board, starting with the top&#xA;line.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I would say that yes, you should &amp;quot;fill the first row and put the remaining 3 meeples in the second row&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For Side B:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't matter as they are organised by colour and so the only consequence is a completed track may now be open to be re-triggered in future turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For reference:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manuals in French, English and German are available at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;manufacturer's site&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T10:33:15.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25719" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-08-26T13:22:10.283" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T13:22:10.283" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T13:22:10.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25720" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-08-26T13:22:10.283" Score="0" Body="A game of corrupt politics in the 1970s Banana Republic. For 2-7 players (2-6 hours)" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T15:21:07.400" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T15:21:07.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25715" CreationDate="2015-08-26T14:34:08.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually use a riffle shuffle with sleeved cards with not problems. What I do is have the top of the sleeves pointed away from me, split the deck into two parts, and riffle them so they are in a V shape with only the bottom right corner of the left pile over lapping the bottom left of the right pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you sill cannot shuffle them that way the next best way is a mash shuffle or side shuffle. For this one take the deck and split it in two piles again, then take the two piles and 'mash' them together along the long side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are other ways of shuffling as shown on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, but from what I've heard these are the two techniques that create a random deck the fastest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T14:34:08.620" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25715" CreationDate="2015-08-26T15:09:20.567" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Riffle is not easy on the sleeves or the cards.  Use the faro shuffle on the long edge and then do a &quot;power shuffle&quot;.   One by one from the top of the deck make 6 - 8 files. Once all cards are in 6 - 8 smaller piles, randomly start stacking the piles.  Then cut and perform a faro shuffle.  Performing both of these techniques a couple of times will give you an adequate shuffle without damaging sleeves or cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T15:09:20.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25727" CreationDate="2015-08-26T16:25:05.660" Score="8" ViewCount="4328" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am unclear on a detail.  Can I play a pair of cards with instructions (such as shuffles)? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the instructions: &quot;If you play matching pairs &lt;strong&gt;with no instructions on them,....&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like there might be &quot;advanced rules&quot; where this is allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13571" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T17:12:18.153" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T13:56:41.893" Title="Playing pairs of non-cat cards" Tags="|exploding-kittens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25502" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:13:29.537" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;With Ramses in effect, guilds are still free. This is the reason Babel tile 23 specifies &quot;construction of guilds via &lt;em&gt;resources&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is forbidden.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Antoine Bauza (the game's creator) &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.antoinebauza.fr/?p=3568&quot;&gt;was asked this directly on his forums&lt;/a&gt; this past December. The question was posed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;«When we built a guild with Ramses Leader in play but the tile Babel No. 23 (resources become parts payable) is also at stake, what's happening? The guild building is it paying off in parts or completely free in the end?»&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To which he replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;«Your Free guilds remain with Ramses (Free resource becomes free rooms)»&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13572" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:13:29.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25723" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:38:58.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can play 2 of any card as long as the icons match per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explodingkittens.com/how&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Important note:&lt;/strong&gt; You can play any card as two or three of a kind, as long as the icons in the upper left match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:38:58.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10859" CreationDate="2015-08-26T17:39:42.750" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the record, I have not played in a few years. If you are playing with friends than anything can go, if they are ok for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tournament rules are still as follows, &quot;Players may have a sideboard of up to a maximum of 15 cards, and exchanges of cards between games are not required to be on a one-for-one basis, so long as the player adheres to the 60 card minimum deck size&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a rule were you could only have 4 cards with the same name unless the card had special rules limiting it, at the time you could only have one &quot;Wrath of God&quot; or any non-named land for example. Having said that most people would run around 15 land and around 45 other cards... in this case do 16 land and 44 other cards leaving you only 11 different cards give or take. You would do this to increase your odds of getting your strategic cards. When drawing randomly, it's not luck it is a number game, play the odds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I once had a massive 120 card deck. It played awful due to the odds being against me with every draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13573" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T17:39:42.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25723" CreationDate="2015-08-26T19:16:17.000" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions that come with the game have the quote in the question and indicate that there are basic and advanced rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic rules state that cards without instructions must be saved and played in pairs. They say that &quot;if you play matching pairs with no instructions on them,&quot; you can randomly steal another player's card.  With the later section, it is clear this only applies to &quot;cat&quot; cards with no instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a later section &quot;for advanced play&quot; which specifically states that &quot;play pairs .... no longer only applies to cards with no instructions on them, it now applies to ANY cards in the deck with the same icons in the corners&quot;.  It also gives the rules for three of a kind play and 5 different cards play.  This seems to be the only set of rules listed on the &quot;official rules&quot; webpage in the other answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ergo: &lt;strong&gt;Whether you can play non-cat pairs is based on which rule set you are following.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13571" LastEditorUserId="13571" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T13:56:41.893" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T13:56:41.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25626" CreationDate="2015-08-26T20:01:57.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Damage step means leaving the battle step, so you could not special summon juragedo in the damage step. You can special summon him during battle step and then tribute during damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13575" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T20:01:57.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25730" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26836" CreationDate="2015-08-26T21:20:23.213" Score="11" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both vulnerable, at rubber, South dealt and bid 1NT, North 2 clubs, South 2 hearts, North 3NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You, West, have (s) 64 (h) AJ7 (d)J8752 (c) Q84.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North clearly has four spades, but not hearts. Any spade strength on your side is with East, &lt;strong&gt;behind&lt;/strong&gt; North. You like the strength you have behind South's hearts. Apparently, the bulk of North-South strength is in the minors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual West led the 5 of diamonds. It was a &quot;friendly&quot; lead from a weak suit that gave North and South all the time in the world. Reasoning from the previous paragraph, I would have lead a small spade (and hoped for a heart return).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a bit unconventional but does this make sense? If declarer thought that I had length and strength in spades, could that cause a misplay? (In the example, East actually had five to the king, but of course, I wouldn't know this until later.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, how much weaker could the diamond suit be, before it is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; worth leading?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-08-26T22:26:09.537" LastActivityDate="2019-08-10T17:37:46.280" Title="Does it make sense for a defender to lead a short major when opponents fail to find a fit using Stayman?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25078" CreationDate="2015-08-26T21:38:10.937" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If, however, Narset also is enchanted by Curiosity (as well as DS), she will count as &lt;em&gt;dealing combat damage to a player&lt;/em&gt; twice, so you would draw two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13577" LastActivityDate="2015-08-26T21:38:10.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25730" CreationDate="2015-08-26T22:28:28.490" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If opponents have only 24-25 points the auction would likely have involved acceptance of a game invitation. Instead there was a jump to game by responder without a slam try, each opponent having 4 cards in a different major; opponents rate to have 29 points +- 3. You have 8 points in hand, giving partner 3 points +- 3. The likelihood of being able to set up and run a suit in partner's hand is extremely remote. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if partner has QTx in diamonds and an entry you might be able to win a race against Declarer in that suit. Lead your fourth best diamond as was actually done at the table. This also gives partner a clear signal as to what to lead back to you when he gets in the (probably) one only time that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this particular hand I see no reason for method of scoring to matter, but as a matter of good form it should be specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important to note also that partner is going to be squeezed in both Majors. Clubs are splitting 3-3 for Declarer. Combined with the fact that opponents jumped to game rather than accepting an invitation, at Matchpoints I am going to be happy to get four defensive tricks for Average plus against all those who make an overly aggressive, and desperate, attempt to find unavailable tricks in partners hand. Even sitting patiently for my &lt;strong&gt;third&lt;/strong&gt; defensive trick will often be a good Matchpoint result on this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, to answer your specific question: No, it is pointless to search for major suit tricks on this auction. Partner has neither the suit strength nor the entry to make searching for his suit profitable. The only chance to set this hand is a miracle of clashing honours for opponents, and even then you will have to have set up cashing tricks in your hand to collect on the good fortune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revisiting this, the biggest problem with a Spade lead are that these three scenarios are most likely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partner wins the Spade lead and returns it, setting up his Spade winners. You now have no more entries to partner's tricks, and have lost two tempos for setting up Diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partner wins the Spade lead but sees no future in the suit, and makes a random guess as to which minor to return guessing wrong 50% of the time. Either one or two tempos for setting up diamonds have been lost.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partner has Qxxx or Jxxx unsupported in Spades and you have just guaranteed Declarer four Spade tricks and the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Potentially settable Notrump contracts are a race between Declarer and Defense, and the loss of even a single tempo nearly always guarantees losing that race. It is imperative for the Defense to chase long-suit tricks in the hand with entries. Here, it is very unlikely that Partner can have enough points both to make Spades worth setting up and have an entry making them cashable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Form of Scoring:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Rubber (as here) of IMPS one always makes an extreme effort to set the contract, as overtricks are very rarely of import. Lead a diamond. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In Matchpoints, one is looking to not get a bottom on the opening lead. Experience has taught me that leading from jack empty fourth is a nearly guaranteed bottom - but leading from jack empty fifth or longer is often a winning play. The decision is now more complex. It is possible that Partner's Spade trick is dead unless you lead the suit now, so that lead might be right. I am personally an aggressive defender, so would usually lead a Diamond, but would accept a Spade lead from partner as reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2019-08-10T15:44:46.557" LastActivityDate="2019-08-10T15:44:46.557" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25735" CreationDate="2015-08-27T04:48:10.457" Score="5" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently played a game of BSG with some friends and we ran into a situation wherein the Cylon Leader was in the sickbay and their turn came around. The sickbay states that you draw only one card, but they argued that the infiltration card from the Daybreak expansion gives them an extra card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule book text is not so clear on this situation, so I'm hoping someone can clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13581" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T07:03:40.093" Title="Do Cylon Leaders in Battlestar Galactica (Daybreak expansion) draw an extra card in sickbay?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T05:24:37.667" Score="-2" ViewCount="2154" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a limit to how many creatures I can summon in a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13582" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T15:02:55.910" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T15:03:37.023" Title="Do I need mana in my mana pool to summon a creature card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-08-27T17:23:43.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25733" CreationDate="2015-08-27T07:03:40.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, Cylon Leaders are restricted to one card in Sickbay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/daybreak/BSG_Daybreak_rulebook_engindd_v-3.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Daybreak rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An Infiltrating Cylon Leader draws one extra Skill Card from&#xA;  within his Skill set during his “Receive Skills” step for a total of&#xA;  three Skill Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence, they only receive an extra card if they are receiving their normal 2 cards.  Sickbay overrides it to only allow one card per character in Sickbay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules also note that the Infiltration card is a &quot;summary&quot; of the Infiltration rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T07:03:40.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25734" CreationDate="2015-08-27T07:12:48.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each spell that you cast has a mana cost associated with it. Whether creature, instant, planeswalker, or any other, they all have a mana cost. (Lands aren't spells, so they're treated different, but that's a topic for a different day.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must have mana in the necessary amount and type to cast the spell as indicated in the top right corner of the spell. If you want to cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Runeclaw%20Bear&quot;&gt;Runeclaw Bear&lt;/a&gt; you must have two mana, one of which must be green. Simple stuff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not necessarily need the mana to be in your pool at the time you &lt;em&gt;declare&lt;/em&gt; the spell. You may declare a spell, then activate mana abilities (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Forest&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystic%20Druid&quot;&gt;Mystic Druid&lt;/a&gt;, but notably not &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arbor%20Elf&quot;&gt;Arbor Elf&lt;/a&gt; who normally serves the same purpose) if you so choose. It's worth noting that since no one can respond to mana abilities, this is effectively the same if you declare then pay or if you pay then declare. If you read up on Magic's history, it was once a hot point of contention!!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may encounter creatures or other spells that require 0 mana. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memnite&quot;&gt;Memnite&lt;/a&gt; comes to mind, along with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Black%20Lotus&quot;&gt;Black Lotus&lt;/a&gt;. Clearly, you always have the appropriate mana to cast these spells. You may also encounter spells with no mana cost, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evermind&quot;&gt;Evermind&lt;/a&gt; but you'll find these to be the exception, and you're unlikely to find them in most scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for a limit, generally you're only limited by the amount of mana you have available. Some obscure spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rule%20of%20Law&quot;&gt;Rule of Law&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=%C3%86ther%20Storm&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;ther Storm&lt;/a&gt; will get in the way, but for most circumstances you're only limited by your mana. In fact, many strategies (particularly red decks) rely on getting 2 or even 3 creatures out a turn in an effort to swarm opponents before they can mount a viable defense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that if you're unsure about these simple questions, while we're happy to help, you may want to find a knowledgeable IRL buddy to ask these to. This represents a fundamental uncertainty about core aspects of the game which will make playing it difficult and potentially un-fun. I highly recommend engaging your LGS about how to get practice with regular players so you don't learn wrong!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T15:03:37.023" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T15:03:37.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25738" CreationDate="2015-08-27T07:31:32.210" Score="7" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;We combined Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor with Bridges, Castles &amp;amp; Bazaars for the first time last night, and one situation cropped up for which I want to clarify the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created a small city (with no banners), as defined for the Castle requirements, but only had a Mayor to hand.  The Mayor rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a city containing a mayor is scored, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE the banner / number of followers rule doesn't come into play here as the city -&gt; castle is specifically not a scoring event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Castle rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... the owner of the city chooses whether to score 4 points, as normal, or to make it into a castle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The CAR changes &quot;owner&quot; to &quot;occupier&quot;, but otherwise is more or less the same.  Since I'm not scoring, my reading is that the Mayor is the owner/occupier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my interpretation correct - can a Mayor become a lord in a castle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8388" LastActivityDate="2020-05-02T20:26:04.123" Title="Can a Mayor be used to create a Castle?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25737" CreationDate="2015-08-27T08:25:41.940" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short and simple answer: The mayor &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; be placed in a castle.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(From footnote 161 in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Complete Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the mayor is in a city that is turned into a castle, you won't get any points from the mayor as there are no banners in a castle. In that case, the mayor will not be returned to you until the castle is scored (that is to say, an adjacent structure is completed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T13:44:57.283" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T13:44:57.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25739" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26833" CreationDate="2015-08-27T12:48:08.953" Score="10" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was browsing the Hans im Glück website and found two 'official' &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/carcassonne/fan-erweiterungen/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;fan-made expansions&lt;/a&gt; for Carcassonne.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansions are called:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/carcassonne/fan-erweiterungen/die-stadttore/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Die Stadttore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (The City Gates)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXG7d.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QXG7d.png&quot; alt=&quot;Carcassonne tile showing a city gate&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/carcassonne/fan-erweiterungen/der-osterhase/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Der Osterhase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (The Easter Bunny)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPy1I.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EPy1I.png&quot; alt=&quot;Carcassonne tiles showing an Easter bunny and Easter eggs&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the site is in German and so are the rules, both for &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/fileadmin/data_archive/Downloads/CC-Fanerweiterungen/CarcStadttore_Regel_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Die Stadttore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/fileadmin/data_archive/Regeln_Mini-Erw._Promos/CarcOstern_Regel_kleiner.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Der Osterhase&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where can I find the English rules?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T13:26:16.623" Title="German Carcassonne fan expansions - available in English?" Tags="|house-rules|carcassonne|expansions|reference|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25740" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-27T16:18:46.353" Score="4" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a winning condition for the keeper that states that a Mi Go monster must kill an investigator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Mi Go monster did damage to an investigator and then I trigger a Trauma card that kills the investigator based on the damage dealt by the Mi Go, is that still considered as meeting the winning condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13590" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-08-27T23:18:58.247" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T12:17:20.313" Title="Can a trauma card meet the requirements for victory" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25741" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25487" CreationDate="2015-08-27T16:34:02.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing the &quot;Draw Two, Play Two&quot; card counts, in itself, &lt;em&gt;one play&lt;/em&gt;. Cards that are played as a result of this action do not go towards your Play count for your turn. Similarly, the two cards that are drawn do not go against your Draw count for the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, I echo Joe W's answer. Your turn is over based on the current rules after the Action is played; if the rule is still Play 1, then yes, your turn is over. If not, and that Action was not your last play, then your turn is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T16:34:02.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25694" CreationDate="2015-08-27T17:13:03.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have found that the more upgrades on assault marines makes people want to kill them quickly, but the beauty of assault marines is when they are vanilla with meltas (bolt pistol, chainsword) with more bodies, people ignore them because of bigger more terrifying units on the board, like terminators or HQ squads. But they make enemies fold really quickly with weight of dice regardless of the unit (i.e. terminator 2+ save is nice but try making it against 31 times at once).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;GW sells a sternguard weapons upgrade kit that comes with combi weapons, powerclaws, flamers etc. that way you get a few spare weapons as well for upgrades on other units if you want.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13591" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T17:13:03.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25730" CreationDate="2015-08-27T20:34:11.567" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opening leads are difficult! Either a spade or a diamond could be right. Neither is likely to set the contract often, so it can be difficult to develop a good intuitive feel for which is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd lead a diamond, since diamond strength with partner seems our most likely road to five tricks. It's also the lead least likely to blow a trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an empirical analysis of NT leads using double-dummy software see:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/1554947596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/Winning-Notrump-Leads-Taf-Anthias/dp/1554947596&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2015-08-27T20:34:11.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25740" CreationDate="2015-08-28T12:17:20.313" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think it's ever explicitly mentioned, but I'd say no. Thematically it probably makes sense, but from a rules point of view, it seems logical that it would need to be damaged received directly from the Mi Go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T12:17:20.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25694" CreationDate="2015-08-28T13:27:48.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your sergeant is pointless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you attack in combat you choose a weapon to attack with, so your sergeant would either&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A) attack with his power fist, 1 attack basic + 1 if vetran + 1 if charging, hitting at strength 8 and ap2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B) attack with his lightningclaw, 1 attack basic + 1 if vetran + 1 if charging, hitting at strength 4 and ap3 and rerolling to wound&lt;br&gt;&#xA;C) attack with his melta bombs once &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Powerfists and lightning claws are both specalist weapons, this means you only get +1 attack for 2 close combat weapons if you have 2 of the same weapon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A power fist and melta bomb are both strength 8, most vehicles are armour rear armour 10 (you always hit rear armour in combat) so a powerfist is just as likely to destroy a tank as melta bombs and has more attacks. having both is a waste of points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have 2 flamers, these deny the marines holding them an extra attack in combat which contradicts the two expensive combat characters in the unit.&#xA;Ask yourself what is this unit for? Will they be combat or shooting? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of what I mean - I have 10 stearnguard in a drop pod, they destroy monstrous creatures and high armour units, 20 shots always wounding on 2+ creates lots of saves on expensive things that are hard to kill. I could give them meata bombs and have them kill tanks but its a waste of points because that's not what there there to do.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for how to get bits there are several ways depending on your situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A) Ask others. It's impossible to use all the bits in a box, I've tried. Ask other marine players at your club or the shop you play at, chances are they need bits too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B) eBay. For one off bits eBay is great, people make a living out of opening boxes and selling each piece separately. It can get expensive if you want a lot so sometimes it's worth buying the box yourself for the spares. &#xA;I wanted £28 of pieces from the sternguard box so decided to buy the £35 box as id get it all, I easily got £7 of trades from the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;C) Upgrade spues / boxes. sternguard have 2 of every special and combi weapon, I believe the vanguard have 2 of every combat weapon and devastators have 2 of ever heavy weapon. Biting the bullet and buying the unit can set you up so you don't have this issue in the future. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2018-11-22T07:51:26.523" LastActivityDate="2018-11-22T07:51:26.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24797" CreationDate="2015-08-28T14:50:10.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was able to win at turn 7 with seven castles playing the Greyjoys.  My tactic was to attack the Lannisters early and keep pressing them, while making a pact with house Stark.  Then on turn 7 I attacked Stark to take the last castle to secure the win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure, I screwed my buddy, but it is a game of thrones after all.  I even forgot to use the +1 from the sword the first couple of turns...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13600" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T14:50:10.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-28T16:33:26.813" Score="4" ViewCount="11616" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a quick question: suppose your opponent attacks with an 8/8 with Trample, and you block with a 5/5 with Defender, Indestructible, and Hexproof. You also have Hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trample is an ability, and Hexproof won't allow you to be targeted by abilities or spells. How would one assign damage then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is Hexproof just not important at all by this point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13602" LastEditorUserId="13141" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T20:28:40.100" LastActivityDate="2018-09-13T06:41:21.650" Title="How do Hexproof and Combat Damage interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:22:50.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25748" CreationDate="2015-08-28T16:51:13.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent would deal at least 5 damage to your blocking creature and up to 3 damage to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hexproof prevents your opponents from targeting your creature and you in this example, but hexproof doesn't stop other things from effecting your creature or you. Things target only when they say the word 'target' on them (and Aura spells on the stack), other things like combat damage, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archetype%20of%20Courage&quot;&gt;Archetype of Courage&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldfire&quot;&gt;Worldfire&lt;/a&gt; do not target thus will still effect creatures, players, or anything else with Hexproof.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;M15 Basic Rules PDF&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;hexproof&lt;/strong&gt;  —A creature with hexproof can’t be&#xA;the target of spells or abilities your opponents&#xA;control, including Aura spells. Your spells and&#xA;abilities can still target it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; — If a spell uses the word “target,” you&#xA;choose what the spell will affect when you cast&#xA;it. The same is true for abilities you activate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-08-28T18:24:06.107" LastActivityDate="2015-08-28T18:24:06.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="122" CreationDate="2015-08-28T17:40:01.827" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most people say that it is rude to ask slow players to play more quickly.  The opposite is actually true - slow players are the rude ones.  They selfishly take extra time so that they can gain an advantage.  AP players ruin the fun of the game, and it should be recognized as such.  Your desire to win or play well is less important than the right of everyone else to experience a game that flows well and that finishes in a reasonable time.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my main group, one of the players has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.digitalgametechnology.com/index.php/products/clocks1/227-dgt-cube&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DGT Cube&lt;/a&gt;, a device that records how much time each person takes.  (Each side has a color that corresponds to common player colors.  You flip it to your color when it's your turn and The Cube counts your time.)  At the end of the game, you can definitively show a slow player how much more time he has taken than everyone else.  As this guy says, if one person takes as much time as the rest of the players combined, that person is too slow and has to change or be uninvited to gaming.  The Cube inspires everyone to play faster, which means we can play more games.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Studies have shown that people make better decisions when 1. they have fewer options to choose form and 2. they allow their emotions to play a part in the process.  Therefore, AP players should be counseled to narrow down their choices to two or so options, even if it's done arbitrarily.  If they still can't decide, they should be counseled to go with their gut.  Tell them that if the choice turns out to be suboptimal, they will learn for next time.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13604" LastEditorUserId="299" LastEditDate="2018-01-05T21:28:06.633" LastActivityDate="2018-01-05T21:28:06.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25764" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:02:40.210" Score="2" ViewCount="166" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I end my turn in the street where there are monsters and a patrol marker, do I encounter the monsters first or perform the sneak check to avoid being arrested. Do I get to choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:43:15.523" Title="Do I make the sneak check on the patrol marker or confront monsters first?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:04:43.940" Score="4" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Agent%20of%20the%20Fates&quot;&gt;Agent of the Fates&lt;/a&gt; is not on the battlefield but for example in the hand or graveyard, will its triggered abilities still trigger when I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Dead&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; or my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ostracize&quot;&gt;Ostracize&lt;/a&gt; and chooses the Agent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13614" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T08:21:12.353" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T08:42:17.587" Title="Does a creature's ability trigger while it's in the hand or graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25756" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25765" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:06:08.243" Score="4" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the abilities underneath the &quot;+N to combat check&quot;, for instance, am I allowed to use them when I don't have them equipped? I believe the answer is yes but I was hoping to find documentation. I think most of these likely involve exhausting the card, which further makes me think it likely is allowed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T11:34:51.373" Title="Do I get to use non-bonus abilities from items I don't have equipped?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20596" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:18:11.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To double any type of counters, you place an additional number of counters on the permanent equal to the number of counters that are already on the permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By definition, to &quot;add&quot; a counter, is to place an additional counter. Thus, to place an additional counter, is to &quot;add&quot; a counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13615" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T07:18:11.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25762" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:28:51.990" Score="1" ViewCount="161" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I get arrested by patrols during the movement phase, I get moved to the jail and am told to become delayed and skip the entire next turn. Does this mean I miss this turn's encounter phase &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; next turn's as well, merely standing up during the movement phase of that next turn and sitting idle in the polic station? This would mean effectively sitting out of two potential encounters (granted you could say not quite two, as the first turn would sometimes simply be spent in the streets, not necessarily a location).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:41:34.647" Title="Do I effectively lose two opportunities to have an encounter when I get arrested by patrols?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25761" CreationDate="2015-08-29T07:54:04.767" Score="1" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;Failing a combat check results in being lost in time and space, and this monster has no combat damage listed. If I fail to evade, that implies I suffer no damage nor do I become lost as it was not a combat check. Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:31:20.397" Title="If I fail to evade Dimensional Shambler, am I lost in time and space?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25755" CreationDate="2015-08-29T08:19:55.383" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless specifically stated otherwise in the ability text, or they could &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; function from another zone (such as in Flashback), abilities of creatures, lands, artifacts, etc., only work while they are permanents, i.e. when they are on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that Ostracize does not even target creatures, it only targets opponent players, so it could never trigger the Agent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T08:42:17.587" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T08:42:17.587" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25759" CreationDate="2015-08-29T09:31:20.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Failing an evade check results in exactly the same consequences as failing a combat check.  So if you fail an evade check to a dimensional shambler it results in you &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Dimensional_Shambler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;being lost in time and space&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; covers this for a different monster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; If you fail an Evade check against The Beast (Mask&#xA;  monster), does that count as failing a Combat check and&#xA;  are you then devoured if you also fail the Horror check?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:31:20.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25758" CreationDate="2015-08-29T09:34:56.160" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Delayed&lt;/strong&gt; means two things&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The investigator cannot move during his turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The investigator does not receive movement points during his turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything else is still on. You'd get your normal encounter for the area you are in, you can trade items, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arrested is worse.&#xA;Yes, you would miss your entire next turn, including the encounter.  Thereby effectively losing two encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-29T09:41:34.647" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:41:34.647" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25756" CreationDate="2015-08-29T09:37:48.527" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The limit on items you can use per turn is your hands, typically two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each item or spell will indicate how many hands it uses (if any).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:37:48.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25754" CreationDate="2015-08-29T09:43:15.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; covers this.  You make your evade check first, and then monsters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; At the end of your Movement Phase, do you fight monsters&#xA;  before making the Evade check against Martial Law&#xA;  to see if you are arrested or after?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; After the Evade check against Martial Law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T09:43:15.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25756" CreationDate="2015-08-29T10:15:00.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 6 of the Arkham Horror FAQ &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Do I have to be using the Bullwhip or Cross in combat to gain their special abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No, in the case of these two cards, you do not have to use them in combat to make use of their secondary abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies to me that any other such weapon that has a secondary ability (i.e. one that isn't +N to combat checks or something similar) can also be used similarly without being equipped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T10:15:00.900" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25816" CreationDate="2015-08-29T17:16:55.123" Score="3" ViewCount="115" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Neuroshima Hex 3.0 a player starts their turn by drawing up to three tiles and discarding one of them into the discard pile.  Are these tiles out of the game permanently or is the discard pile essentially just your supply of tiles?  In other words, when I discard a tile will I have the chance to draw it again or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7023" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:36:30.813" Title="Are discarded tiles reusable or removed from the game?" Tags="|neuroshima-hex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25627" CreationDate="2015-08-29T18:51:40.347" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes it does. When the total number on monster changes on field then replay will always come.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T18:51:40.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T19:38:55.843" Score="3" ViewCount="209" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Midway, the Japanese player gets only three (airborne) searches per turn. What's worse, he only only gets to search &quot;areas&quot; within 12 zones of his ships, while the American's Midway based planes get four searches per turn, across the whole board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that the Americans can track the Japanese player's progress from the beginning of the game (first day), while the Japanese player doesn't have a chance find American ships until the middle of the first day at the earliest. And only if the American player isn't any good at hiding his ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One proposal was to give the Japanese player a fourth search. A second rule of the game is to allow &quot;ship&quot; searches. That is to say, that the Japanese player can search any area in which he has ships. Late the first day, he receives a reinforcement of four weak cruisers that are almost useless for defense, but can be used the second day (and later) for ship searches. That's potentially four more areas that can be searched by ships, to complement airborne searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A house rule that I played with years ago was to allow area searches by combat squadrons, that is one torpedo or dive bomber squadron per area searched. These units had to be put in a separate group, and could not be used for combat the same, or the following turn. And they were subject to the seven square distance rule. Nevertheless, they afforded the Japanese player the chance to &quot;blanket&quot; a portion of the board with searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What means have players used to compensate for the problem of the Japanese player having so few searches? Or are the better players so good that three searches is &quot;enough?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:05:20.123" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T14:30:11.390" Title="Is there any good cure in Midway for Japan's lack of search capabilities?" Tags="|house-rules|midway|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25769" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25748" CreationDate="2015-08-29T20:03:43.573" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;They don't interact at all.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &quot;target&quot; does not occur anywhere in the Comprehensive rules for &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Trample#Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;702.19&lt;/a&gt;, Trample,&lt;/strong&gt; nor &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_damage_step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;510&lt;/a&gt;, Combat Damage Step&lt;/strong&gt; (well, the latter does use the word &quot;target&quot; within some examples, but those uses refer to spells being cast, not to the combat damage itself).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Comprehensive rules for Hexproof are short enough to include here in their entirety:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.11.&lt;/strong&gt; Hexproof&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.11a&lt;/strong&gt; Hexproof is a static ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.11b&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Hexproof&quot; on a permanent means &quot;This permanent can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.11c&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;Hexproof&quot; on a player means &quot;You can't be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.11d&lt;/strong&gt; Multiple instances of hexproof on the same permanent or player are redundant.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because combat damage is not targeted, and &lt;strong&gt;Trample&lt;/strong&gt; does not target the blocking creatures nor the defending player, &lt;strong&gt;Hexproof&lt;/strong&gt; will not protect creatures or players from this damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13141" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T20:03:43.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25770" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-08-29T21:32:32.783" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many years ago, I bought a game called 'Elixir', in which the players represent wizards trying to obtain the ingredients for the Elixir of Life. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I've lost the rules, and I can't find any reference to the game or its manufacturers on the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing I need to know is the table that tells you the result of an attempt to brew a potion, based on the value of gems in the mix, and the die roll you throw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13619" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T04:46:51.993" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T04:46:51.993" Title="Where can I find the rules?" Tags="|reference|elixir|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25770" CreationDate="2015-08-29T22:12:43.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bombjack.org/commodore/amiga/games/Elixir_of_Life_Manual.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bombjack.org/commodore/amiga/games/Elixir_of_Life_Manual.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The table is at the bottom of page 2. When brewing, add the cost of your gem(s) to the dice roll. On a 3 or less, the brewing fails and you lose the ingredients. On a 4 or 5, nothing happens but you can attempt to brew again on your next turn. Finally, on a 6+, the potion is successfully brewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12628" LastActivityDate="2015-08-29T22:12:43.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3224" CreationDate="2015-08-30T03:26:05.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An article in Volume 24 Number 3 of the General contains an extensive review &amp;amp; commentary of the Avalon Hill release of Empires in Arms. The authors of the article are the designers of Empires in Arms, Harry Rowland and Greg Pinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half of the article is devoted to the changes that Avalon Hill made and states that the designers are happy with almost all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tightening of the political rules&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;limits on ceding provinces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alliances were strengthened&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added the rule about not being able to sue for a separate peace when a major power is in your territory&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;corp size changes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added Tyrolian Revolt corps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added guard infantry to Britain and Spain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added cavalry to Russia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;extra feudal corps in Podolia, Transylvania and Crimea&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added costs to most troops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added maintenance to depots&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;added victory conditions&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dissolve HRE&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;garnish British trade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;remove factors instead of corps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;VP levels were dramatically increased&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;manpower added to final VP totals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;new political combinations were added&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;alternate dominant powers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;restrictions on province loss by major powers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;replaced civil disorder with compulsory suing for peace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T03:26:05.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25773" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25777" CreationDate="2015-08-30T05:06:29.317" Score="1" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I use my hand slot to attempt to cast a spell, and it fails, am I unable to equip a different item or spell in that hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T07:48:43.707" Title="If I fail a spell check to gain a combat check bonus, am I unable to equip another item?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25773" CreationDate="2015-08-30T05:40:38.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From page 16 of the rules,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note that a spell requires the number of hands printed on the card, even if the investigator fails to cast it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a pretty definitive case for the hand(s) being used up and not equippable with any other item. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T05:40:38.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25776" CreationDate="2015-08-30T06:17:37.130" Score="1" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;A science building encounter had a mi-go appear and stated I could not use investigator cards if I failed a speed check. What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T07:53:06.527" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T07:53:06.527" Title="What does &quot;you may not use any investigator cards in this encounter&quot; mean?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25775" CreationDate="2015-08-30T06:53:58.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Investigator cards are explained in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/AH_Rules_internat.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror rulebook&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are briefly mentioned on page 2 under &lt;strong&gt;Game Components and Preparation&lt;/strong&gt;, and are covered in more detail on page 3 under &lt;strong&gt;Investigator Cards&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The small cards included in Arkham Horror are called&#xA;  investigator cards. They represent useful allies the investigators&#xA;  may meet and items they may acquire during the&#xA;  course of the game. There are six types of investigator&#xA;  cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific cards that fall under this category (in the base game) are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Common Items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unique Items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skills&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Specials&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silver Twilight Membership&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bank Loans&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retainers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blessings &amp;amp; Curses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deputy of Arkham cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expansions also add their own additional Investigator Cards, such as Injury &amp;amp; Madness cards in Dunwich Horror.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does point out a specific lack of clarification in the rules that is not covered in the FAQ as far as I can see: If Curse, Injury, Madness and other detrimental statuses are also Investigator Cards, then by definition of the Science Building encounter in question they could also not be used. This would then present the potential for the encounter with the Mi-Go to become easier for some investigators. (If you chose to play it strictly by the wording of the card as-is. Personally, I would use the implied intent of the card, which is that beneficial Investigator Cards could not be used.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T06:59:25.807" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T06:59:25.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25773" CreationDate="2015-08-30T07:48:43.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That hand is used up for the combat round.  Next round you may equip other items/spells with that hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/FAQs/Complete_Arkham_FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; During combat, how long does a failed attempt to cast&#xA;  a spell use up an investigator’s available hand(s)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; A failed attempt to cast a spell uses the specified number&#xA;  of hands for an entire round of combat (i.e., for one&#xA;  iteration of combat steps 2 and 3.). In subsequent rounds&#xA;  of combat, the investigator may switch to a new weapon&#xA;  or try to cast a different spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T07:48:43.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13894" CreationDate="2015-08-30T21:53:10.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my 1st Edition Rules, section &lt;strong&gt;4.3 Supply&lt;/strong&gt; from the middle of the first paragraph to the end of the second:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any units which are not in supply, and remain so at their end of their turn, are eliminated and returned to their Force Pool. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Supply has no effect on Combat but does affect Movement. Ground units out of supply cannot move, regardless of the Option or Phase employed. Naval and Air units are always considered supplied. &lt;em&gt;Airborne (4.7)&lt;/em&gt; units or armor units conducting &lt;em&gt;Exploitation (4.5.3)&lt;/em&gt; are considered in supply during and one turn after they conduct their air drops or Exploitation.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beneath that, in the caption of the diagram illustrating an Out-of-Supply situation on the Eastern Front, it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Black player has just finished his move, leaving  all the Red units isolated and out of supply except for the 10th infantry which ....&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;4th Edition Rules&lt;/strong&gt; below agree, though in a somewhat more verbose and comprehensive fashion, so I am lead to believe that the rule has not changed over the editions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;27.43&lt;/strong&gt; Unsupplied units are eliminated if still unsupplied at the end of their player turn. This is so even if they were in supply at some intermediate point of their turn. Elimination occurs at the end of the player turn; units are lost after unit construction, therefore units lost from lack of supply cannot be reconstructed during the turn of their loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-08-30T22:32:14.883" LastActivityDate="2015-08-30T22:32:14.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25780" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25781" CreationDate="2015-08-31T03:50:33.683" Score="4" ViewCount="2334" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I are experimenting with various potential Commander decks at the moment &amp;mdash; we're drafting far more than we're playing, for a mix of practice, learning, and fun. This means it's semi-regular we'll look up a new commander for certain colours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Searching for mono- or dual-colored commanders is fine with the colour identity search, using &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=ci:r+t:legendary+t:creature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ci:r t:legendary t:creature&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for monocolored red commanders, or the same legendary creature filter with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=ci:wum+t:legendary+t:creature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ci:wum&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; for white/blue commanders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, every search for three-coloured commanders and above also includes every two-colour commander that could be found therein. A search for Temur commanders with &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=ci:gurm+t%3Alegendary+t%3Acreature&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ci:gurm&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; turns up all the green-blue-red commanders, but it also turns up all green-red, green-blue, and red-blue commanders, meaning I have to mentally sift those out each time I want to explore commander options. The exclusive (&lt;code&gt;!&lt;/code&gt;) filter of &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=ci!gurm+t%3Alegendary+t%3Acreature&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;ci!gurm&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; has no noticeable difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How can I perform an exclusive color identity match for commanders of three colours or more, in order to get a commander who has &lt;em&gt;those exact colours,&lt;/em&gt; without also getting commanders that match only a subset of those colours?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T05:26:19.610" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T14:46:17.317" Title="How can I search MagicCards.info for an exact color identity match?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25780" CreationDate="2015-08-31T04:05:20.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you search &lt;code&gt;ci:gur&lt;/code&gt; on magiccards.info, you are looking for cards that &lt;em&gt;match&lt;/em&gt; that color identity, i.e. that are legal in a deck with whose commander has a GUR color identity, including artifacts. When you append the &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt;, it appears to search for cards that have more than one of those colors in their color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in that context, when you are looking for a GUR commander, you are really looking for a card that matches that color identity, but does not match any subset of that color identity.. You can express that using the negation syntax to filter out those sub-combinations, like &lt;code&gt;-ci:ru&lt;/code&gt;. The final search is &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=t%3Acreature%20t%3Alegendary%20ci%3Agur%20-ci%3Agu%20-ci%3Aur%20-ci%3Agr&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;t:creature t:legendary ci:gur -ci:gu -ci:ur -ci:gr&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. This results in a total of six creatures that have that exact color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I created a &lt;a href=&quot;https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/magiccardsinfo-commander/bgdhjjclbgkpddcelnamnomfmhgaamom&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chrome extension&lt;/a&gt; to help construct that search automatically. I also recently discovered &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.edhrec.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;EDHREC&lt;/a&gt;, a site with similar search functionality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T19:22:46.197" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T19:22:46.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25785" CreationDate="2015-08-31T07:03:02.540" Score="1" ViewCount="112" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Herald variant of Curse of the Dark Pharaoh, cursed investigators lose stamina every upkeep. If they reach zero and become unconscious, do they wake at St. Mary's Hospital only to keep falling unconscious unless someone sends a blessing their way? Do they lose the curse when becoming unconscious? I didn't see any reference to losing or retaining blessed/cursed status but surely there is some means to keep investigators from being caught in this loop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:41:26.527" Title="Do cursed investigators in the herald variant repeatedly fall unconscious?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25784" CreationDate="2015-08-31T07:08:08.780" Score="2" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I have to wait until the arkham encounters phase of my next turn, or can I use this card immediately upon receiving it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T11:27:01.590" Title="Can I use Summoning Glass immediately upon receiving it?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-curse-of-dark-pharaoh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25783" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:27:01.590" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope.  Since there's nothing on the card that tells you that you have to wait for it, the ability is used the first time it's requirements are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T11:27:01.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25782" CreationDate="2015-08-31T11:33:58.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since an investigator gets to roll to see if they lose a Cursed or Blessed status on the upkeep after losing their stamina, they won't get stuck in an infinite loop.  If a person is worried about not being able to do anything because of their curse, they can use their Encounter at St. Mary's to simply heal one.  Their health will go from 1 to 2, then back to 1 next round.  At least with that, the person can make one move and go somewhere to do SOMETHING, rather then being bed-ridden.  There are ways around it, but I guess the solution really would be &quot;don't get cursed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2444" LastEditorUserId="2444" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T18:41:26.527" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:41:26.527" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25787" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25788" CreationDate="2015-08-31T15:07:02.323" Score="2" ViewCount="1382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bazaar%20Trader&quot;&gt;Bazaar Trader&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; to gain control of a creature my opponent controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent uses a card such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Void%20Snare&quot;&gt;Void Snare&lt;/a&gt; on that creature, does the card go to my hand or my opponents hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T21:51:00.793" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T22:39:50.043" Title="Bazaar Trader combo and Void Snare - Ownership vs. Control" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25787" CreationDate="2015-08-31T15:28:34.370" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you note in your title, there is a difference between ownership and control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.2. A permanent's owner is the same as the owner of the card that represents it (unless it's a token; see rule 110.5a). A permanent's controller is, by default, the player under whose control it entered the battlefield. Every permanent has a controller.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  110.5a A token is both owned and controlled by the player under whose control it entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly, we know the owner of the card, and where it goes as a result of void snare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But let's say, for some reason, it said &lt;em&gt;controller's hand&lt;/em&gt; instead of &lt;em&gt;owner's hand&lt;/em&gt;. That's already covered: cards only ever go to their &lt;em&gt;owner's&lt;/em&gt; hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.3. If an object would go to any library, graveyard, or hand other than its owner’s, it goes to its owner’s corresponding zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for who the owner is, well that's also defined for us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.3. The owner of a card in the game is the player who started the game with it in his or her deck. If a card is brought into the game from outside the game rather than starting in a player's deck, its owner is the player who brought it into the game. If a card starts the game in the command zone, its owner is the player who put it into the command zone to start the game. &lt;strong&gt;Legal ownership&lt;/strong&gt; of a card in the game is irrelevant to the game rules except for the rules for ante.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T20:18:12.613" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T20:18:12.613" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25791" CreationDate="2015-08-31T16:17:11.010" Score="4" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Fistful of Cards&lt;/strong&gt; expansion pack for the card game BANG!, the &lt;code&gt;Abandoned Mine&lt;/code&gt; card states in both languages used on the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Nella propria fase 1, il giocatore pesca dagli scarti (se finiscono, pesca dal mazzo). Nella propria fase 3, scarta a faccia in giù sul mazzo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During his phase 1, each player draws from the discards (if they run out, from the deck). In his phase 3, he discards face down on the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, it never says what to do with the cards played in phase 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Argument 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some would argue that for the whole round, the discard pile becomes the draw pile and the original draw pile becomes the discard pile. So for example, during your phase 2, when you play a &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; card, it would go face down on the original draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Argument 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this card is very specific about stating which &quot;phase&quot; things happen in. Therefore, the other argument (and the one that it sounds like the card seems to say) is that: ONLY during phase 1, and ONLY during phase 3 the draw pile and discard pile are swapped. For example: when playing a &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; card in phase 2, it would go to the original discard pile (face-up stack). This can get weird at times, because when playing &lt;code&gt;Indians&lt;/code&gt;, the card says that all other players need to &lt;em&gt;discard&lt;/em&gt; a &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; card in order to avoid being hit. Since they are &quot;discarding&quot;, would those cards go to the face-down pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phases are talked about here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bang!#Gameplay&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bang!#Gameplay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the Fistful of cards expansion is talked about here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bang!#A_Fistful_Of_Cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bang!#A_Fistful_Of_Cards&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;(When speaking about the Abandoned Mine, it's language does not use what is stated on the card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, where are cards played in phase 2 actually placed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13632" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T09:31:31.493" Title="BANG! Where do cards played in phase 2 go when &quot;Abandoned Mine&quot; is in effect" Tags="|expansions|bang|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2015-08-31T16:33:49.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I understand of the card, and from the wikipedia link which states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;players draw from the discard pile and discard on the top of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is that when you play a card during phase 2 or if you make anyone discard cards (ex. Cat Balou) then it would go on top of the deck. My card (similar to VGO's translation but from Italian) has confirmed my understanding of this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10110" LastEditorUserId="10110" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T19:01:52.850" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T19:01:52.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2015-08-31T17:16:10.897" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play with the French version of the game which is very clear and could be translated as follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During phase 1 every player picks his card from the discard pile if it is possible. If so, &lt;strong&gt;every card&lt;/strong&gt; discarded &lt;strong&gt;during his round&lt;/strong&gt; will be put face-down on the draw pile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translation from the original French card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Durant sa phase 1, si c'est possible, chaque joueur pioche ses cartes dans la défausse. Si c'est le cas, &lt;strong&gt;toutes les cartes&lt;/strong&gt; défaussées &lt;strong&gt;pendant son tour&lt;/strong&gt; seront posées face cachée sur le paquet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12066" LastEditorUserId="12066" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T18:41:16.000" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T18:41:16.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24686" CreationDate="2015-08-31T21:49:36.990" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm glad you enjoy this aspect of Hex, but the poorly-written rules and bountiful edge-cases are, in my opinion, maddening :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'd been there I'd have argued that &quot;Level&quot; would have worked for him in this situation but &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; if he had no other cards in his hand that would have been legal plays.   Since he had &quot;Turn-aside-right&quot; then &quot;Level&quot; doesn't work in this case and he's hexed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it's definitely ambiguous.  I don't think I like your proposed house-rule as it undermines the chaos that Foretell is meant to impose, but maybe you should experiment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13637" LastEditorUserId="13637" LastEditDate="2015-08-31T23:47:43.797" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T23:47:43.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25787" CreationDate="2015-08-31T22:39:50.043" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;More to the point, Act of Treason by itself only lasts for one turn. Void Snare is a sorcery speed card, which means it can only be played on the turn of the active player. By the time your opponent could play void snare, it'd be of no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to circumvent all of these effects, look into a Conjurers Closet or Momentary Blink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13638" LastActivityDate="2015-08-31T22:39:50.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="216" CreationDate="2015-09-01T07:34:07.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allies should make sure France at least keeps Morocco and England should reinforce France in the beginning to hold it off until the us and Russia get there and then push in from all sides to kick axis butt. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13643" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T07:34:07.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25789" CreationDate="2015-09-01T09:31:31.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The actual answer is a little more complicated and so doesn't match either of the arguments. While the original card's wording (Italian/English) doesn't match the effect, it doesn't affect &lt;strong&gt;played&lt;/strong&gt; cards (like the &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; you mentioned), nor does it affect other players outside of their turn (so &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; cards discarded for &lt;code&gt;Indians&lt;/code&gt; are discarded as normal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is clarified in their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.emilianosciarra.net/en/bang/expansions-bang/a-fistful-of-cards/faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ on the expansion&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q4. Where I have to place my played cards while Abandoned Mine is in play, especially when I play Wells Fargo, General Store or Stagecoach?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. There is a difference between &amp;quot;discarded&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;played&amp;quot; cards: Stagecoach, General Store and Wells Fargo are &amp;quot;played&amp;quot;, while cards exceeding hand size limit at the end of the turn or by means of a Duel are &amp;quot;discarded&amp;quot;. So, discarded cards goes on the draw deck, while played cards go on the discard deck. Draw the cards after Stagecoach and Wells Fargo always from the draw deck. Note that this applies to current player only: all other players draw and discard normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarification, here's how it works with certain cards. In all cases, the played card will go to the discard pile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cat Balou&lt;/strong&gt;: Unless you play it on yourself, the target will discard it normally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Duel&lt;/strong&gt;: The &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; cards &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; discard will be put on the deck, but those discarded by your opponent will go to the discard pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Indians&lt;/strong&gt;: All &lt;code&gt;Bang!&lt;/code&gt; cards discarded by opponents will go to the discard pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T09:31:31.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25797" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-01T11:38:28.053" Score="5" ViewCount="1801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to store Dixit Odyssey + another Dixit expansion in a box.&#xA;The original Dixit boxes are too big. Not convenient for transportation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I've searched around, and didn't find any suitable box, &lt;strong&gt;I was thinking of getting a box with the dimensions of my choosing&lt;/strong&gt;. This would be helpful for many other games as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there specialized products for this? Custom-sized boxes, eventually with the option of defining separators inside of the box?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which box types and dimensions should I be looking for to store and transport expansion sets of Dixit cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13644" LastEditorUserId="13644" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T23:35:55.093" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:28:42.277" Title="Where can I get good-quality boxes of custom sizes, so I can store my board games compactly?" Tags="|storage|dixit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25800" CreationDate="2015-09-01T12:45:08.220" Score="4" ViewCount="2912" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruinous%20Path&quot;&gt;Ruinous Path&lt;/a&gt; and pays the Awaken cost, then I make the creature it targets invalid (e.g. bounce, protection, destroying it myself, ...) is that enough to counter the spell due to targeting rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal... The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there 1 or 2 targets here?&lt;/strong&gt; Does the land count as an additional target - so it still resolves because there is at least one valid target? Or is there only one target (the creature), as the other instance of the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot; only appears in the reminder text not as actual rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="8160" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T09:09:08.163" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T09:09:08.163" Title="Awaken targeting rules" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25798" CreationDate="2015-09-01T12:54:30.257" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell will still resolve and animate the land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because Awaken does indeed target, from the article you linked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can also choose to cast a spell for its awaken cost. If you do, you'll also choose a land you control as a target of the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it does target, and the spell has at least one legal target when it goes to resolve it will do as much as it can. In this case animating the land and putting 4 +1/+1 counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T12:54:30.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25798" CreationDate="2015-09-01T12:56:33.043" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've mostly answered the question yourself, including the ruling quotations. Yes, paying Awaken cost will add a new target (a land), so if you make a first target illegal, it won't counter the spell to the full extent. And vise versa, as even mentioned in the linked article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, if a spell with awaken normally doesn't require a target, and you choose to cast it for its awaken cost, you will add a target to the spell by doing so. If that target land becomes illegal before the spell tries to resolve, the spell will be countered. You won't get any of its effects, including the first effect that didn't require a target. This won't come up a lot, but it's definitely something to be aware of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T12:56:33.043" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25801" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25802" CreationDate="2015-09-01T15:57:11.567" Score="2" ViewCount="4768" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the rule regarding passing an &lt;strong&gt;unequipped&lt;/strong&gt; weapon to a survivor that is not in your location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I pickup a gun at the police station and want to pass it to another player that has a survivor at the grocery store.  Can I pass the player the card to equip to that survivor? Or would I have to move to that survivor's location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13645" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T16:28:52.097" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:28:52.097" Title="Am I allowed to pass unequipped weapons (or items) to any survivor?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25801" CreationDate="2015-09-01T16:28:17.857" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two types of moves that involve giving cards to other players.  They are &lt;strong&gt;Hand Off&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Request&lt;/strong&gt;.  The one you probably want is request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Request&lt;/strong&gt;: During his turn a player may request 1 or more item cards from other players. Other players may give the requesting player an item card from their hand, if they do, that card must be revealed and immediately played. The requested card cannot be added to the crisis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Request allows a player, on his turn, to get cards from other players as long as he plays it immediately.  I'm presuming that the card you want to give to someone is unequipped so in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hand Off&lt;/strong&gt;: During his turn a player may have a survivor he controls that has an item equipped hand that item off to another survivor at the same location. When an item is handed off it is unequipped from the survivor that is handing it off and is immediately equipped to the survivor that it is being handed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hand off is basically if a survivor already has an item equipped (i.e. it is &quot;in play&quot; and out of your godly control to move around to other survivors without restriction), then he or she can give the item to another survivor in the same location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, you can pass that unequipped card but not on your turn.  You have to wait until that player's turn before they can request it from you to place on that survivor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T16:28:17.857" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25797" CreationDate="2015-09-01T19:34:42.210" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dixit expansions come in boxes of size 8.1 x 3 x 12.7 cm. The cards from the base set, Journey or Odyssey should fit in one of those exact same boxes. Get a box for each expansion that you own. You could make your own boxes, from sheets of cardboard using a box template like this one. You'll want to use 250 grams paper (g/m2, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grammage&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;grammage&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0w5D.png&quot; alt=&quot;template generator&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just put your dimensions into a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.templatemaker.nl/index.php?template=cardbox&amp;amp;lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;template generator&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The voting cards can go into a small bag, and you don't really need the bunnies and scoring track. Bring pen and paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T06:24:24.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T06:24:24.487" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25805" CreationDate="2015-09-01T19:56:41.863" Score="33" ViewCount="4220" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine the following setup: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A has 6 points, including the Longest Road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B has 8 points with an equally long road.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C has 9 points with a shorter road. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what would happen if Player C places a village, breaking Player A's road chain? At that moment Player A would have 4 points, while both Player B and Player C would have 10. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, who would be declared the victor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T20:27:31.733" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:33:19.523" Title="Can there be two winners at the same time in Catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25804" CreationDate="2015-09-01T20:12:58.143" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only the player who is currently taking their turn can win the game, so player C would be the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Official Rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ENDING THE GAME&#xA;  If you have—or reach—10 victory&#xA;  points on your turn, the game ends&#xA;  immediately and you win! You can only&#xA;  win during your turn. If somehow you&#xA;  find you have 10 victory points during&#xA;  another player’s turn, you must wait&#xA;  until your next turn to claim victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/catan#downloads&quot;&gt;Downloads page on www.catan.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="11743" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T13:12:17.140" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T13:12:17.140" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25808" CreationDate="2015-09-01T20:20:47.717" Score="9" ViewCount="3949" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine the following setup. There are 3 (or more) players with an equally long road. What would happen if the longest road was broken? How is it decided who obtains the longest road from there on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8339" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T22:52:11.107" Title="Who would get the longest road?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25806" CreationDate="2015-09-01T20:28:36.250" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faqs/92?page=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt; it depends on a few things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player that had the longest road still has the longest road and it is 5 roads long or longer, or is tied for it, they keep it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player that had the longest road no longer has the longest road and one other player has a uniquely longest road (greater than 5 pieces), that player gets the longest road&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player that had the longest road no longer has the longest road, and no players have a road at least 5 pieces long, or the longest road is a tie (not including the former longest road owner) the player that had it loses it and nobody gains it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your case nobody would end up with the longest road. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T16:36:38.553" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:36:38.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25806" CreationDate="2015-09-01T20:40:22.247" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/files/downloads/catan_base_rules_2020_200707.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; are pretty clear about this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set the “Longest Road” card aside if—after a longest road is&#xA;broken—several players tie for the new longest road or no one has a 5+&#xA;segment road. The “Longest Road” card comes into play again when only&#xA;1 player has the longest road (of at least 5 road pieces)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your example exactly meets the criteria, &amp;quot;after a longest road is broken&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;several players tie for the new longest road&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2020-12-17T22:52:11.107" LastActivityDate="2020-12-17T22:52:11.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24833" CreationDate="2015-09-01T22:35:21.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a quote from the Elder Sign rulebook, as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/elder-sign/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;currently posted online&lt;/a&gt;.  Page 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Failing Rolls&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  If the player is unable or unwilling to use his die results to satisfy&#xA;  any task’s requirements, the roll is considered a failed roll. He&#xA;  must discard one die of his choice from the dice pool and&#xA;  roll the remaining dice in another attempt to complete a&#xA;  task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no other errata or clarifications or asides that alter this rule (other than a brief aside to confirm that yes, you can choose to intentionally fail rather than spend too many dice on one task).  It doesn't matter that you managed to complete a task on the adventure card in some other way, in your case by killing a monster with a spell.  The roll still failed.  You must still discard a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastEditorUserId="10399" LastEditDate="2015-09-01T22:41:21.923" LastActivityDate="2015-09-01T22:41:21.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25810" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T01:18:38.130" Score="2" ViewCount="3334" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is the new duel deck &lt;em&gt;Zendikar vs Eldrazi&lt;/em&gt; considered standard before the Battle for Zendikar comes out? I have been playing it for a few days and I don't want to waste money buy more of those cards if I cannot play them in standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13649" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T01:27:54.470" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T02:50:55.120" Title="Are the cards in Zendikar vs Eldrazi standard yet, before Battle for Zendikar comes out?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-09-03T22:21:28.937" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25810" CreationDate="2015-09-02T01:32:11.713" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, those cards are not all in Standard. Some already are, some aren't yet, some won't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some already are Standard:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Read%20the%20Bones&quot;&gt;Read the Bones&lt;/a&gt; and others have been printed in Standard sets. You can use those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The cards we know will be in Battle for Zendikar aren't standard &lt;em&gt;yet&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; They will be after that set actually comes out and enters Standard rotation. &lt;em&gt;Dominator Drone&lt;/em&gt; and others aren't available in Standard yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some are old cards that might not become Standard at all.&lt;/strong&gt; Like other duel decks, &lt;em&gt;Zendikar vs Eldrazi&lt;/em&gt; contains many cards from &lt;em&gt;past&lt;/em&gt; sets no longer in Standard. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Butcher%20of%20Malakir&quot;&gt;Butcher of Malakir&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corpsehatch&quot;&gt;Corpsehatch&lt;/a&gt; have not been seen in Standard since the original Zendikar block several years ago. There's no guarantee these cards will become Standard at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're expecting to buy exclusively cards usable in Standard, Duel Decks are not the product for you. Buy those to actually duel with, or if you play a more open format like Modern or Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T02:50:55.120" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T02:50:55.120" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25797" CreationDate="2015-09-02T10:28:42.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you mentioned you have Dixit Odyssey (abbreviated as DO from now on), I thought I'd share my solution. We have many card games (Bang, Fluxx, Saboteurs, etc) and DO. For transportation I've found it works well if I take the plastic inset (tray?) out of DO, and the resulting space is more than enough for all games. Of course each deck needs to be wrapped in a rubber band to avoid mixing, but the sturdy cardboard box of DO makes it easy to carry all our games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This of course doesn't solve the problem if the problem is the DO box being too big, but maybe you can use the space inside the box for other things too, in order to rationalize carrying such a large box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7131" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T10:28:42.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25814" CreationDate="2015-09-02T12:41:58.100" Score="8" ViewCount="3979" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you cast a counterspell on a spell that can't be countered, or is it not a legal target...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just wondering if you can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frightful%20Delusion&quot;&gt;Frightful Delusion&lt;/a&gt; something that can't be countered but still have the player discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T12:49:05.143" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:55:02.927" Title="Can you attempt to counter an &quot;can't-be-countered&quot; spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25813" CreationDate="2015-09-02T12:48:42.007" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can, since the targeting requirement for counter spells is just 'target spell' not 'target spell that can be countered'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the counterspell goes to resolve it will do as much as possible, so it won't counter the spell but any other effects it would have (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frightful%20Delusion&quot;&gt;Frightful Delusion&lt;/a&gt;'s discard) will still happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="11667" LastEditDate="2015-09-02T16:55:02.927" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:55:02.927" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25766" CreationDate="2015-09-02T16:36:30.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Discarded tiles are out for the remainder of the game. While the rules don't specify this, they never allow for reshuffling of the draw pile. This would also force you to maintain separate discards for your defeated tiles and your discarded-from-hand tiles, which is an unnecessary and unspecified complication.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As further proof, the behavior in the Neuroshima Hex 3.0 mobile game is that discarded tiles are, simply, discarded (permanently).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sorry that I don't have anything more official to cite here, but I believe that both the behavior of the official app and nature of the rules stated are sufficient as proof that discarded tiles are truly discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13572" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T16:36:30.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25768" CreationDate="2015-09-02T19:08:56.610" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some differences in play between the original (60s) and updated (90s) editions of Midway - not least of which is where ships come into the game from (the newer edition uses hexes instead of a uniform grid, too). Based on this question mentioning the 7 squares rule, I'll assume (and answer as if) you're looking at the older edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not really a &quot;need&quot; to compensate for the Japanese player's fewer searches. Using a T1 or D1 (or F1) to search, I suppose, &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; be done, but you should be able to extend those out to 14 squares (the limit of a plane's range) - and allow a kamikaze attack by that plane (or squadron, if you sent more than one) if they happen to find anything .. might even consider upping their AF by 1, reducing their die roll by one, decreasing the DF by 1 of the ship, or a combination of the three. Of course, if they find &lt;strong&gt;nothing&lt;/strong&gt;, you've lost those aircraft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might cut the number of American searches to 3 from 4, but that's not a big difference either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T19:08:56.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8297" CreationDate="2015-09-02T19:17:47.510" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The drawback of such a strategy (I've tried it as the US player in the 1960s edition, and responded as the Japanese player) is that you &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, in fact, prevent the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; from being sunk - unless you happen to roll very, &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; poorly as the Japanese player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Dive Bombers have to be placed atop the target ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Torpedo Bombers are placed in sectors surrounding the target ship. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But all of any given type of aircraft in any given sector (5 possible total sectors - atop, starboard, port, aft, bow) attack &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;as one&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; attack wave.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not all that hard to properly space your vessels, as the Japanese player, to [nearly] guarantee the attack fails.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if you're playing the advanced game, with the addition of Fighters and CAP, it becomes easier yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; way this method can work, in my experience, is to attack pretty much &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; in the board unit that holds the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; - presuming, of course, you &quot;know&quot; which unit that is. That way even if you fail to sink the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt;, you may be able to inflict serious damage to the carrier groups, allowing the possibility of preventing the Japanese occupation of Midway itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 60s edition, which I've played most, reflects well the relative strengths of both sides in that battle - and I've only seen the Japanese player win twice (both of which were when I was playing as the Japanese): and this is in dozens of times through the game, will various aspects of official (and occasional house) rules used, against both novice- and highly-seasoned players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-02T19:17:47.510" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25820" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-02T22:04:14.923" Score="3" ViewCount="663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently read about a popular game that, similar to Jokers and Pegs, used cards to determine play. As I recall, it required multiple decks of cards - two more decks than the number of players, but I don't think it required a board of any kind. Supposedly easy to learn, suitable for adults or children, and about equal parts chance and skill. But for the life of me, I cannot recall the name. Does this sound familiar to anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13663" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T04:23:39.443" LastActivityDate="2017-03-29T19:22:10.430" Title="Card game similar to jokers and pegs" Tags="|identify-this-game|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25821" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25823" CreationDate="2015-09-02T22:19:15.127" Score="1" ViewCount="82" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Midway, a large aircraft carrier (all of the Americans and two of the Japanese) can take five hits. If a ship has received one less hit than the critical number (four in this case), it is deemed damaged, to the point where its firepower capabilities are reduced to 1 (vs. ship) and 1 (vs. air), down from x y where it started, (where x and y are usually greater than 1). And I believe its movement factor is also reduced from 2 to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Q &amp;amp; A of the 1960s version, a question was asked, that given the fact that an aircraft carrier with &quot;ready&quot; (fueled and armed) planes  would require one less hit to sink it, would getting planes &quot;ready&quot; after an attack sink an aircraft carrier? The answer was no, the ship would not be sunk, because the &quot;readying&quot; of the planes would not happen simultaneously with the bombing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But a more important question is that would a crippled aircraft carrier be able to launch or retrieve planes, or would a carrier on its &quot;last legs&quot; have a ruined flight deck or crippled launching mechanism that would prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't remember the 1960s version of the rules addressing this point. Did the 1990s version do so, or were the 1960s rules clearer on this point than I remember? And if the answers were no, would the above be a reasonable interpretation that is in the &quot;spirit&quot; of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:05:02.083" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T17:05:02.083" Title="Can a &quot;crippled&quot; aircraft carrier launch airplanes in Midway?" Tags="|midway|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25824" CreationDate="2015-09-03T01:38:56.967" Score="7" ViewCount="15793" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Scrabble, If on the board there is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PICKLE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start at the E tile, go down one tile, then right one tile there is a triple word score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put SO vertically at the end of pickles (So the O would  be on the triple word score):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  PICKLES&#xA;        O  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does just SO get triple word score, or does PICKLES and SO both get their score tripled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13666" LastEditorUserId="13666" LastEditDate="2019-08-06T20:31:55.160" LastActivityDate="2019-08-06T20:31:55.160" Title="Scrabble Triple Word Score Question" Tags="|scrabble|scoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="25823" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25821" CreationDate="2015-09-03T01:50:22.410" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think this idea is a valid simulation. The two most critical tasks of an aircraft carrier, in order, are staying afloat and launching/retrieving it's planes. Provided the crew is not fully dedicated to staying afloat (ie there remains one or more hit points), the crew will continue to launch and retrieve plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the reaching of zero hit points may not be a simulation of actually having sunk - but rather of having become unoperational as a carrier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course these classic TAHGC games simulate in very broad brush strokes - it is common now to improve the simulation with more complex rules. I have not played Midway specifically, but at the cost of additional complexity I would consider &lt;em&gt;slowing&lt;/em&gt; a carrier's launching and retrieval of planes once it had only one or two hit points left. This would simulate the difficulties of continuing operations a damage built up. However a carrier that cannot launch and retrieve at all is a sitting duck. Somehow, someway, some planes will be launched until the crew is forced to abandon ship. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as a simulation of the different national characters and cultures of Japan and America, I would constrain damaged American carriers to only launch planes that could reasonably be expected to be retrievable - but make this optional for the Japanese captains.  An early &lt;em&gt;kami kaze&lt;/em&gt; option if you will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T01:50:22.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25822" CreationDate="2015-09-03T03:38:44.197" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/scrabble/en_US/discover/rules.cfm&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; on Hasbro's website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Premium Word Squares: The score for an entire word is doubled when one of its letters is placed on a pink square: it is tripled when one of its letters is placed on a red square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Triple Word square triples the value of any word played on it. So in your example, SO would score triple points, but PICKLES only scores normally. However, if the triple word square was directly to the right of PICKLE, then by placing the S on it you'd triple the score for both words.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T03:38:44.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="25831" CreationDate="2015-09-03T10:02:21.440" Score="2" ViewCount="14078" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi I just started playing mtg a week ago and bought a white/green intro deck. However, I would want to create a deck combining one of these colors (if possible) with one that focuses on a more aggressive play style. I understand red and black are the most aggressive ones (please correct me if I'm wrong), and this has made me think on building a white (defensive) / black (aggressive) deck in the following weeks. Is such a combination of colors viable? If it is not, what other combination would allow me to have a more aggressive play style without giving up all my defense?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13673" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T08:54:29.650" Title="Is a white/black deck viable?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-03T14:09:15.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25829" CreationDate="2015-09-03T10:29:52.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is this viable? Yes.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Will this always be the best choice? No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of an old deck which I played in the past:&#xA;Black and white knights (pro black on the WK), pestilence, circle of protection black (old rules: pump pestilence once with 2-3 mana. Power CoP black once. A castle or two, sengir vampires and serra's if you can find them. Pegasi, (with castle they survive 2 damage), ... hypnotic specters, unholy streght, terror, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That deck would not survice and serious competion, but against similar decks of starters it did quite well. So yes, &lt;strong&gt;depending on your environment&lt;/strong&gt; you can build quite viable decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you move up en anvironment where people are actually buying current generation cards to build a tournament deck, then the answer if different and it will vary between releases of new expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as I read it you are just starting with MTG and a agressive black deck with some help from white can do just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5231" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-03T13:08:07.457" LastActivityDate="2015-09-03T13:08:07.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25829" CreationDate="2015-09-03T13:58:21.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer:&lt;/strong&gt; yes - a black and white deck is completely viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr/&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Long answer:&lt;/strong&gt; it is a lot more complicated than that, and will depend on what cards you have available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in Origins 2015 (the most recent set of cards at time of writing) the most effective* strategy to take with a black and white deck is to build a deck that includes many enchantments, where as the most aggressive deck is probably one that includes red and white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Khans of Tarkir (part of the second most recent set of cards) black and white had lots of warrior creatures that tended to lend themselves to aggressive decks. However in Ravnica expansion a few years ago the black and white deck was about gaining yourself life while making the opponent loose life simultaneously. This was focused on a much slower victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what format you are playing (anything from strict Standard-Constructed to loose &quot;kitchen table&quot; rules) you can use different cards. As you start to take cards from more than one set you will probably find that these archetypes become less prescriptive, but I have added them to give you an example of some of the flavours that B/W combos can bring. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion Red will often be more aggressive than green, and is usually more aggressive than either white or black (though again it is dependant on the cards that you have available) - so if you want a more aggressive deck then red might suit you better. It tends to have a higher concentration of spells that directly damage your opponent and opponents creatures, as well as creatures that have a higher power - though this often comes at the price of lower toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*your mileage may vary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="8160" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T08:54:29.650" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T08:54:29.650" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="25832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26834" CreationDate="2015-09-04T00:49:36.600" Score="5" ViewCount="10953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I wanted to buy 4 of each card in both foil and regular quality near the time when a set comes out. Which would be more cost efficient? Buying booster boxes or pre-ordering singles? Or maybe a combination or the two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would you go about collecting playsets of foil and regular cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9720" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T13:54:28.707" Title="Is it worth it to buy booster boxes or singles to collect 4 regular and 4 foil Cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2015-09-04T06:48:39.700" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if you plan on buying singles or building a deck, it is almost entirely worth it to buy singles than buying booster boxes. Buying boxes is great if you just like to tear open the boosters for fun or want to play draft with friends to add to the box's value. It is even not uncommon for a booster box to not cover its MSRP if you decided to sell it as singles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more info, I would recommend watching  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/user/tolariancommunity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tolarian Community College&lt;/a&gt; Youtube channel. There are some great videos which would be helpful for you, such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Go3DLAfamm0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Is it worth it to buy a booster box?&lt;/a&gt; in their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvqw7t0kbGX8f-uNgZJkzf1BbcrXvw1EF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Is it worth it to buy Magic&lt;/a&gt; playlist, or &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/kRlI0MprrHc?list=PLvqw7t0kbGX8i42vxEJcS1D4rOgS_aVp_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Booster Box Game&lt;/a&gt; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLvqw7t0kbGX8i42vxEJcS1D4rOgS_aVp_&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG Crack-a-Pack&lt;/a&gt; playlist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-09-04T09:06:59.110" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T09:06:59.110" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25739" CreationDate="2015-09-04T13:01:00.800" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A quick &lt;strike&gt;Google&lt;/strike&gt; web search reveals &lt;a href=&quot;http://carcassonnecentral.com/forum/index.php?topic=2219.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; for the Easter Festival (yes, it's the same author although a different name). The full rules for both expansions can be found in the downloads sections of Carcassonne Central (you'll need to register, but it's free to do so).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/community/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=178&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easter Festival - Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/community/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=179&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Easter Festival - Tiles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.carcassonnecentral.com/community/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=290&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;City Gates Rules - English translation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T13:01:00.800" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2015-09-04T13:10:12.073" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this will vary depending on the size of the set. I will use Khans of Tarkir as an example, which has 101/80/53/15 commons/uncommons/rares/mythics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13418/5783&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; answer,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 in 6 packs contains a foil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;foil mythics are several times more rare than foil rares. I interpret this to mean that distribution is equal to the total number of unique cards of each rarity, e.g. for Khans you'd expect 101 out of every 249 foils to be common, and 15 out of every 249 foils to be mythic.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question of &quot;how long does it take to randomly collect one of each item in a collection, with replacement?&quot; is called the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupon_collector%27s_problem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Coupon collector's problem&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On average,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to get &lt;strong&gt;524 commons&lt;/strong&gt; before you have one of each. There are 10 commons per pack, so you will need to open &lt;strong&gt;52.4 packs&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to get &lt;strong&gt;397 uncommons&lt;/strong&gt; before you have one of each. There are 3 uncommons per pack, so you will need to open &lt;strong&gt;132.3 packs&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to get &lt;strong&gt;241 rares&lt;/strong&gt; before you have one of each. There is one rare per pack, except in the 1/8 chance of getting a mythic, so you will need to open &lt;strong&gt;275 packs&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to get &lt;strong&gt;49 mythics&lt;/strong&gt; before you have one of each. There is one mythic per eight packs, so you will need to open &lt;strong&gt;392 packs&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to open an average of &lt;strong&gt;14.7 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one foil common, so you need to open &lt;strong&gt;7702 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one of each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to open an average of &lt;strong&gt;18.7 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one foil uncommon, so you need to open &lt;strong&gt;7423.7 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one of each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to open an average of &lt;strong&gt;28.2 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one foil rare, so you need to open &lt;strong&gt;6796.2 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one of each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to open an average of &lt;strong&gt;99.6 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one foil mythic, so you need to open &lt;strong&gt;4980 packs&lt;/strong&gt; to get one of each.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question of &quot;how long does it take to randomly collect N of each item in a collection, with replacement?&quot; is called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://stat.wharton.upenn.edu/~shepp/publications/1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Double Dixie Cup Problem&lt;/a&gt;. User &lt;a href=&quot;https://stackoverflow.com/users/4014959/pm-2ring&quot;&gt;PM 2Ring&lt;/a&gt; located and &lt;a href=&quot;http://pastebin.com/rjv21AUY&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;implemented&lt;/a&gt; the formula for me; in general, collecting four sets of something takes about twice as many trials as collecting one set of something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;+--------+---+----------+----------+--------+--------+----------------+----------------+----------------+----------------+&#xA;|rarity  |qty|trials    |trials    |regulars|foils   |packs needed for|packs needed for|packs needed for|packs needed for|&#xA;|        |   |(copies=1)|(copies=4)|per pack|per pack|a set of        |a set of        |a set of        |a set of        |&#xA;|        |   |          |          |        |        |1 regular       |4 regular       |1 foil          |4 foil          |&#xA;+--------+---+----------+----------+--------+--------+----------------+----------------+----------------+----------------+&#xA;|common  |101|525       |1091      |10      |101/1494|52              |109             |7765            |16138           |&#xA;+--------+---+----------+----------+--------+--------+----------------+----------------+----------------+----------------+&#xA;|uncommon|80 |397       |839       |3       |40/747  |132             |279             |7413            |15668           |&#xA;+--------+---+----------+----------+--------+--------+----------------+----------------+----------------+----------------+&#xA;|rare    |53 |241       |527       |7/8     |53/1494 |275             |602             |6793            |14855           |&#xA;+--------+---+----------+----------+--------+--------+----------------+----------------+----------------+----------------+&#xA;|mythic  |15 |50        |122       |1/8     |5/498   |400             |976             |4980            |12151           |&#xA;+--------+---+----------+----------+--------+--------+----------------+----------------+----------------+----------------+&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;to get four of every regular and foil card in Khans, you would need to buy &lt;strong&gt;16,138 packs, with an MSRP of $64,390.62&lt;/strong&gt; plus tax.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For comparison, you can currently get a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=717463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;full set of Khans of Tarkir (non-foil)&lt;/a&gt; for $200 from SCG. SCG doesn't have the foil set, but &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.completemtgsets.com/products/ktk-foil&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;you can find it&lt;/a&gt; for around $490. 4 x $200 + 4 x $490 = $2760.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$64,390.62 is a lot more expensive than just buying singles for $2760, so singles are the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-05-23T12:40:31.240" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T13:54:28.707" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25832" CreationDate="2015-09-04T13:44:53.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A hybrid approach might work best.  While it may be true that the sale value of a booster box is less than the cost of its contents as singles, it is unlikely that you could &lt;strong&gt;buy&lt;/strong&gt; the contents of that booster box for less than the cost of the box.  So if you're starting from nothing, getting a booster box or two is probably more efficient than just buying everything as singles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more cards that you have, the more likely you are to start getting cards from your box that are above the 4 that you need.  Once that starts to occur, you're better off turning to singles.  And the foils are rare enough that you'll end up getting almost all of them as singles, which will be a large majority of the cost.  So I don't suspect this will make much of a dent in the $67,000 estimate that Kevin came up with (after selling duplicates).  If you weren't going for the foils, it would be a bigger difference percentage wise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T13:44:53.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25730" CreationDate="2015-09-04T21:05:06.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did a double dummy simulation using the hand and auction you gave.  The results were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;5 of diamonds&lt;/strong&gt; lead has an &lt;strong&gt;8.8% chance&lt;/strong&gt; to defeat the contract (playing double dummy).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;6 of spades&lt;/strong&gt; lead has a &lt;strong&gt;6.6% chance&lt;/strong&gt; to defeat the contract (playing double dummy).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used 1,000 hands for the simulation, so statistically both of the figures above should be accurate to within about 1%.  In particular, the higher chance of setting the contract from a diamond lead &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; statistically significant. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here were the parameters for the simulation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;South has a balanced hand (no singletons, at most one doubleton) with 15-17 HCP, three or fewer spades, and four or five hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;North has 10-15 HCP, exactly four spades, three or fewer hearts, five or fewer of each minor suit, and no voids.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, real players don't play double dummy, so we should take these results with a grain of salt.  In particular, it seems to me that if you lead a spade your partner might not figure out that you have a five-card diamond suit, making him less likely to switch to diamonds on trick two than he would in double dummy.  So if anything we would expect the results from real play to lean even more heavily towards the diamond lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Decreasing the quality of the diamond suit doesn't help the spade lead much.  If we change the J8752 to a 65432, the diamond lead is still the favorite by about the same margin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-04T21:05:06.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T04:09:55.890" Score="1" ViewCount="165" Body="&lt;p&gt;We recently found a game entitled &quot;Paul Heath's New Battleship Game&quot;, 1935 buried in a box. It appears to be a resin board and the board contains rows of holes and the game includes many colored wood pegs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find anything about this particular game online. Does anyone have any information about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13686" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T09:33:31.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T09:33:31.780" Title="1935 Paul Heath's New Battleship Game" Tags="|battleship|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T06:14:54.450" Score="11" ViewCount="10656" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Machi Koro a number of times, most often with in a group of 3 players, sometimes 4.  So far the prevailing strategy usually ends up being to roll only one die and to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy as many Convenience Stores as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasionally buy some Cafes and Bakeries, but primarily:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save up for a Shopping Mall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Construct the Radio Tower, then the Amusement Park, and then the Train Station.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically the Shopping Mall makes Convenience Stores powerful.  Even though Convenience Stores activate only on your turn, you have a 1/6 chance of hitting them, and there's a sizable payoff if you do.  Meanwhile buy other 1-6 cards so that even if the Convenience Stores don't hit, you can have a 100% chance of hitting something on your own turn. (You might not get income if other players have sufficient Cafes, but that's significantly mitigated once you get the Radio Tower.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group has tried this where 1 of 3 players sticks with only one die and where 2 of 3 players stick with only one die.  So far the players who stick with one die usually end up with more money.  Going for two-dice cards requires a greater investment, and since it's harder to get coverage for all possible dice rolls, provides more opportunities to not hit anything on your turn.  It seems hard to justify rolling two dice and giving up nearly guaranteed income.  And if most of the players aren't rolling 2 dice, then buying Mines and Family Restaurants is a lot less attractive.  If nobody has any interest in buying cards &gt;6, then the game seems broken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these experiences atypical?  If not, are there any good house rules to combat this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #1:&lt;/strong&gt; From the comment discussion in one of the answers, it also occurred to me that if I started rolling two dice, other players could just buy Family Restaurants.  Assuming that they also have Cafes, if I roll 2 dice instead of 1, I now have a 1/4 chance of paying other people instead of 1/6.  The threat of Family Restaurants thus seems like another disincentive to ever bother with 2 dice.  Is my analysis incorrect? (If I take expected values into account, Family Restaurants get even more weight, although I'm notably not calculating the expected values for a Cheese or Furniture Factory strategy.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose I should try to write some Machi Koro bots and run a few thousand simulations...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2:&lt;/strong&gt; I've had a few ideas about how to address this (which I've posted as separate answers to this question), but I don't actually play Machi Koro enough with the same set of people to have been able to play-test them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6495" LastEditorUserId="6495" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T05:49:53.280" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T14:19:28.243" Title="How to encourage rolling two dice in Machi Koro?" Tags="|house-rules|machi-koro|" AnswerCount="10" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-05T17:49:09.093" Score="5" ViewCount="1296" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question for marble movement.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your partner has a marble in their in-spot (start of home). If you hit that marble with yours, what happens to your partners marble? And yours?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have been playing with this sequence of events:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rule is that when you hit your partners marble it is sent to its in-spot. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That position is now occupied by your marble so now your partners marble hits yours and sends you to your in-spot. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The end result would be both of you are in your in-spots.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts on this play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13687" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T15:14:45.000" LastActivityDate="2021-06-16T12:53:18.530" Title="What happens if your partner hits you in Pegs and Jokers?" Tags="|pegs-and-jokers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26838" CreationDate="2015-09-05T18:17:51.287" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your suggestion is that your game group may have stumbled upon an optimal play, my general feeling is that Amusement Park is far overpriced for its value, granting another turn every 1 in 6 times (which, remember, only works if you already have train station and is quite a gamble given the small sample of rolls you get any given game). I would usually target the purple cards with the coins you might otherwise use for Amusement Park and double up the dice, making it harder for 1-4 rolls to trigger and more likely (relatively anyway) to see some of these fantastic offensive purple cards start to herd opponents coins or their cards in (while getting the occasional nice 7-9). I haven't played enough to see this broken situation you described possibly because I, and others, end up actively pursuing the 2 dice realm especially when others don't. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-05T18:17:51.287" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26841" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-06T04:20:35.647" Score="2" ViewCount="1437" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take into account that in order for that hand to be the best hand, the dealer must also flip over a card that matches the suit that your best hand is for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13689" LastEditorUserId="13689" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T23:13:04.107" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:07:44.820" Title="What is the probability of obtaining the right, left, Ace, King, and Queen of trump in a 5-card hand in euchre?" Tags="|euchre|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26841" CreationDate="2015-09-06T04:59:40.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Edit: the original question had two potential methods, one of which was correct and one of which was not.  For posterity, here are the two methods, paraphrased from the original question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method one (correct):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 cards are chosen without replacement and without the order mattering from a deck of 24 (9, 10, J, Q, K, A in four suits). Then a sixth card is chosen. The 5 cards must be JQKA in one suit and J in the other suit of the same color. The sixth card must be 9 or 10 of the JQKA suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 42,504 possible hands of 5 cards. There are four possible &quot;best hands&quot; corresponding to the four suits. Once one has fixed a best hand, there is a 2/19 chance of the sixth card being one of the two chosen ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore the probability is (4/42504) * (2/19), approximately 9.90619 x 10^-6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Method 2 (incorrect):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you want the first two cards to be jacks and then the remaining cards to be QKA of a corresponding suit. Perform each draw sequentially.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have a 4/24 chance of getting a jack with your first draw.&#xA;Then you have a 1/23 chance of getting the complementary jack on the second draw.&#xA;Then you have a 6/22 chance of getting one of the possible remaining cards (queen, king, or ace of either jack suit). &#xA;Once this happens, the suit is determined and there are only two possible remaining cards, so there is a 2/21 chance of getting one of the possible remaining cards at this stage.&#xA;Then to get the last necessary card is a 1/20 chance.&#xA;Finally, there is 2/19 chance that the sixth draw is as required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4/24 x 1/23 x 6/22 x 2/21 x 1/20 x 2/19 = 9.90619 x 10^-7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first method is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with the second method is that it assumes that the &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; two cards in the deal are jacks and the third, fourth, and fifth cards are the non-jacks. One could fix this by multiplying the probability by 5C2 (you are choosing which two of the 5 dealt cards are the jacks). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no problem with ordering &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; the two jacks because there is no assumption about which jack came first. There is no problem with ordering &lt;em&gt;within&lt;/em&gt; the other three cards because there are no assumptions about which one was which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiplying by 5C2 = 10, one obtains exactly the answer as via Method 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further edit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in a comment, the rules (and thus the probability) are different for the dealer. The dealer must add the sixth card to her or his hand and then discard one of her or his six cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sixth (face-up) card must then be a jack, queen, king, or ace of one fixed suit and the dealer's original hand must be the other three of these cards, the complementary jack, and an arbitrary other card. The chances of the sixth card being a jack, queen, king, or ace are 16/24. Then there are precisely 19 cards left to be the arbitrary card in the dealer's original hand (and the other four cards are fixed). Then there are 19*16 deals that result in the dealer having the best possible hand. The total number of deals (including the sixth card as a separate choice) is again 42504 * 19. Then the probability for the dealer is 16/42504, approximately 3.76 * 10^(-4), quite a bit more likely than for the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10186" LastEditorUserId="10186" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T13:07:44.820" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T13:07:44.820" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12149" CreationDate="2015-09-06T20:38:39.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can see on the foil uncut sheets that every rare are twice per sheet, while mythics are only once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Sorry couldn't find an image of better quality) &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PPExD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PPExD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Uncut sheet M14&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus you can calculate easily. There is (in m14) 15 mythics and 53 rares, there's 106 for 15 so about 7 rares foil per mythic foil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7132" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T20:38:39.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26838" CreationDate="2015-09-06T21:24:03.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A short disclaimer: I really am not an experienced gamer and have only just begun my collection of modern table top games. Also, while I do own this game, I have only played it a handful of times. Nevertheless I do enjoy Machi Koro. I do not own the expansions (yet). I have only played with one other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've wondered this exact same thing! The first time playing I went for the second die early. This was really wasteful. I suspect most other players feel similarly and want to focus on getting money as fast as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most recent time I played both me and my opponent really focused on rolling a single die, but there came a moment in the game where I had enough money to take advantage of a second die in such away that I would reap the benefits while my opponent wouldn't. Even with her use of restaurants, my other properties were paying me better far more often. And as the paid better, I kept buying them. This put me way ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, still a novice, but I am going to watch for this opportunity going forward. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13691" LastActivityDate="2015-09-06T21:24:03.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26846" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26848" CreationDate="2015-09-06T23:18:28.017" Score="2" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following situation came up in an EDH game and I'm not sure what is supposed to happen. I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cathars%27%20Crusade&quot;&gt;Cathars&amp;#39; Crusade&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nahiri%2C%20the%20Lithomancer&quot;&gt;Nahiri, the Lithomancer&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullclamp&quot;&gt;Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I activate Nahiri's +2 and equip the Skullclamp to the 1/1 Kor token that is created. Does the 1/1 get the passive +1/+1 bonus from Cathars' Crusade before or after the Skullclamp gets equipped? This determines whether I get to kill my own token to draw cards or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13099" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T13:36:53.137" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:23:16.303" Title="Nahiri, the Lithomancer + Skullclamp + Cathar's Crusade" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26846" CreationDate="2015-09-06T23:53:43.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The token dies, and you get to draw the cards. Here's how it works, specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Nahiri's +2 ability. The ability resolves, you put a Kor token into play, and attach the Skullclamp to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions are calculated. The token has 0 toughness, so it dies. Skullclamp's triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skullclamp's ability resolves and you draw two cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability resolves, and each creature you control gets a +1/+1 counter. The token you just made doesn't get a counter because it is already dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T13:33:56.850" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T13:33:56.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26846" CreationDate="2015-09-06T23:56:41.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will lose your token because the equipment is attached when instructed, but triggered abilities use the stack. On the plus side, you will be able to draw cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Nahiri's +2. It goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Players get priority]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nahiri's +2 resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a 1/1 white Kor Soldier creature token onto the battlefield. Cathars' Crusade's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may attach an Equipment to the Kor Soldier at this point. Say you attach Skullclamp to it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Kor Soldier with Skullclamp equipped dies here. Skullclamp's triggered ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability and Skullclamp's triggered ability are placed on the stack in the order of your choice. The order doesn't matter here, so say you place Skullclamp's triggered ability on the stack first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Players get priority]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cathars' Crusade's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Players get priority]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skullclamp's ability resolves:&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw two cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glorious%20Anthem&quot;&gt;Glorious Anthem&lt;/a&gt; would have saved your token since the token would be affected by Glorious Anthem's continuous effect at all times both are on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T16:23:16.303" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T16:23:16.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26850" CreationDate="2015-09-07T02:48:01.777" Score="3" ViewCount="1424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if this falls under the solitaire category, but it is played with one player.  Someone taught me this card game and was under the impression that it was called Kings, but apparently it's not, as upon looking it up, I didn't find this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player deals the cards in 13 piles, 4 to each pile, face down.  Jokers are not used.  Each of the 13 piles represents a rank.  The player starts by picking up a card from the top of the King rank pile, looks at the card, then places it underneath the corresponding rank pile, face up.  Then the player picks up a card from the top of the previous rank pile and places it under the next corresponding rank pile.  To win the game, the player must return each rank to its proper pile before all the Kings are returned to their pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, the player picks from the top of the King pile and receives a Four of Clubs.  The player places the card underneath the Four pile face up, then draws a face-down card from the top of the Four pile.  The player receives a Jack of Spades, which he/she places underneath the Jack pile face up, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13699" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T02:53:20.763" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T06:10:48.643" Title="What is this (solitaire?) card game called?" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26849" CreationDate="2015-09-07T03:38:54.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clock_Patience&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Clock Patience&lt;/a&gt; (or Clock Solitaire), although as the Wikipedia article describes it is usually played with the piles arranged in a circle and the King pile in the centre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T03:38:54.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26851" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-07T06:06:56.407" Score="2" ViewCount="1494" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose there are 3 coins remaining on the board: one man of each colour and the queen. If, in a single strike, I pocket my man &lt;strong&gt;followed by&lt;/strong&gt; the queen, have I covered the queen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13701" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T12:27:54.703" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:27:54.703" Title="If I pocket my man and the queen in a single strike, is the queen covered?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26857" CreationDate="2015-09-07T06:22:59.737" Score="2" ViewCount="545" Body="&lt;p&gt;My version of Machi Koro is not in English and none of the online manuals I found contain the building names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone provide a complete list of card cost and names? Card text would be helpful as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:32:46.310" Title="English names for Machi Koro cards" Tags="|reference|machi-koro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26854" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26855" CreationDate="2015-09-07T07:35:46.667" Score="5" ViewCount="3353" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; casts and resolves &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nekrataal&quot;&gt;Nekrataal&lt;/a&gt;. Nekrataal's enters-the-battlefield ability triggers and &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and targets Player &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;'s &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suntail%20Hawk&quot;&gt;Suntail Hawk&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response, Player &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swords%20to%20Plowshares&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Nekrataal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The stack looks like this (top first):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swords to Plowshares, targeting Nekrataal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nekrataal's triggered ability, targeting Suntail Hawk.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the Suntail Hawk die?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is mixed. If I remove the source of the triggered ability, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability doesn't happen. Either the ability is removed from the stack when its source is removed, or the ability is removed when it tries to resolve and sees that the source isn't there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability is simply an object on the stack, and it doesn't matter what happens to the Nekrataal that created it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13703" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-09-07T13:26:31.933" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T13:26:31.933" Title="Will an ability on the stack resolve if its source is removed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-09-13T00:03:29.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26854" CreationDate="2015-09-07T07:42:49.670" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Hawk will die. Once a triggered ability has triggered, it is independent from its source:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T07:42:49.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26858" CreationDate="2015-09-07T11:51:24.987" Score="3" ViewCount="3441" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember playing this card game using a regular card deck but I don't remember the exact rules and also don't know what it's called. If it helps, I live in the Netherlands so it might not be known anywhere else. If the Dutch name of the game is known that would also be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I think it must be played with at least 3 people, but the more the better I think.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone is dealt an amount of cards. (I don't remember what amount)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player whose turn it is lays down a card. Or multiple cards with the same rank.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next player should then put a higher card on the table and when there are multiple cards he should put the same number of cards that are all of the same rank and of course higher.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At any time before the next player responds to some cards any other player may throw in a card of the same rank to make it harder for the player to beat it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can't remember what exactly happens if you can't beat it. But I believe that it just meant that the player that won is able to lay down the next card(s) on the table to start a new chain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also don't remember what the exact goal of the game was and when (if even) a player could draw new cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I also believe the terms &quot;attack&quot; were used but I'm not 100% sure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example with 4 players (as I remember it):  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;player one lays down a 7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;player two lays down a 8.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;before player three responds player one throws in another 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;player three lays down two 10s. (to be able to beat two 8s)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and so on&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can also imagine this is a game that has multiple rules variations. If anyone knows what this game is called and what the exact rules are , that would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T04:30:07.033" Title="Identify this card game, where you have to beat previous cards put on the table" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26853" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:56:30.587" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;English language translations for the base game as well as two expansions are available at BoardGameGeek. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/104225/machi-koro-english-card-paste-ups-base-game-2-expa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Value  Name&#xA; 1     Wheat Field  &#xA; 2     Livestock Farm  &#xA; 2-3   Bakery  &#xA; 3     Café  &#xA; 4     Convenience Store  &#xA; 5     Forest  &#xA; 6     Stadium  &#xA; 6     TV Station  &#xA; 6     Business Complex  &#xA; 7     Cheese Factory  &#xA; 8     Furniture Factory  &#xA; 9     Mine  &#xA; 9-10  Restaurant  &#xA;10     Apple Orchard  &#xA;11-12  Produce Market&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And these are the landmarks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Cost   Name&#xA; 4     Train station   &#xA;10     Shopping Mall  &#xA;16     Amusement Park  &#xA;22     Radio Tower&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10186" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T14:32:46.310" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:32:46.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26856" CreationDate="2015-09-07T14:58:52.673" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is called President and goes by many different other names, most of which are better not mentioned here. A rule you forgot to mention is that the winning player(s) from last round get the best cards of the loosing player(s). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/climbing/president.html&quot;&gt;Here you can find all the details&lt;/a&gt; with many variants&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T14:58:52.673" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26851" CreationDate="2015-09-07T15:05:26.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player puts the queen and a carrom man of the player's own color in the pocket with one use of the striker, the queen is automatically covered, no matter which went first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copied from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carrom#The_Queen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastActivityDate="2015-09-07T15:05:26.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26860" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26862" CreationDate="2015-09-08T01:03:28.873" Score="7" ViewCount="546" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398446&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Consul's Lieutenant&lt;/a&gt; has Renown, and the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Consul's Lieutenant attacks, if it's renowned, other attacking creatures you control get +1/+1 until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the scenario: it is my turn and I am attacking with a Renowned Consul's Lieutenant and a vanilla 1/1 creature. The Consul's Lieutenant's second ability goes on the stack because the condition is true. Then, in response to the ability, my opponent &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murder&quot;&gt;Murder&lt;/a&gt;s the Consul's Lieutenant. When the ability resolves, does it make the surviving 1/1 into a 2/2 for the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T16:03:31.307" Title="If my Consul's Lieutenant dies while its second ability is on the stack, does the ability do anything?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26860" CreationDate="2015-09-08T02:06:40.037" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the ability will resolve and grant +1/+1 to the 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The condition on Consul's Lieutenant's second ability (&amp;quot;if it's renowned&amp;quot;) is an &amp;quot;intervening if&amp;quot; clause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.4 A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].” When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. &lt;strong&gt;The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the “intervening ‘if’ clause” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the bolded part indicates, the Lieutenant's ability only triggers if the Lieutenant is renowned when it attacks, and the ability only resolves if the Lieutenant is still renowned when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when the ability is about the resolve, it asks &amp;quot;Is my source renowned?&amp;quot; But in our scenario, the Lieutenant doesn't exist at this time. So how is this question answered? It's answered using Last Known Information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, &lt;strong&gt;if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used.&lt;/strong&gt; The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it ceased to exist on the battlefield, the Lieutenant was renowned, so the ability will resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supported by a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Polis%20Crusher&quot;&gt;Polis Crusher&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supported by a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quest%20for%20the%20Nihil%20Stone&quot;&gt;Quest for the Nihil Stone&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supported by &lt;a href=&quot;http://community.wizards.com/forum/rules-qa/threads/4252246&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizard's Rules Q&amp;amp;A forum&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supported by &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/128625087040/if-a-renowned-consuls-lieutenant-attacks-then&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ask a Magic Judge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T14:39:08.313" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T14:39:08.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26863" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26864" CreationDate="2015-09-08T05:43:10.960" Score="2" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think I understand State Based Actions (SBA) and how they work with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bImmortal%20Coil%5d&quot;&gt;Immortal Coil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that at ANY time I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bImmortal%20Coil%5d&quot;&gt;Immortal Coil&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield with no graveyard, I lose.  I understand that I cannot &quot;cast a spell&quot; and have it resolve in time to be put in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I saw this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18333/sacred-mesa-and-activated-abilities-between-untap-and-upkeep&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; about Sacred Mesa and responding to the trigger by tapping mana, which made me think about Immortal Coil and how I can respond to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBazaar%20Trader%5d&quot;&gt;Bazaar Trader&lt;/a&gt; in play, and play Immortal Coil with no graveyard, can I respond to the triggering of the SBA and tap Bazaar Trader to give it to my opponent?  Or do I lose before I can respond to it, because I have no graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T12:13:39.927" Title="Immortal Coil &amp; State Based Actions" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26863" CreationDate="2015-09-08T05:57:00.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is not a State Based Action; it is a State Triggered Ability, so it goes on the stack, and you have a chance to respond before it resolves. However, the ability will still be there after you respond, so you still lose the game. Rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;603.1&lt;/a&gt; defines triggered abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability on Immortal Coil says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When there are no cards in your graveyard, you lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so it matches that description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 603.8&lt;/a&gt; describes state triggered ablities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Some triggered abilities trigger when a game state (such as a player controlling no permanents of a particular card type) is true, rather than triggering when an event occurs&lt;/strong&gt;. These abilities trigger as soon as the game state matches the condition. They’ll go onto the stack at the next available opportunity. These are called state triggers. (Note that state triggers aren’t the same as state-based actions.) A state-triggered ability doesn’t trigger again until the ability has resolved, has been countered, or has otherwise left the stack. Then, if the object with the ability is still in the same zone and the game state still matches its trigger condition, the ability will trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the Immortal Coil is on the battlefield, as soon as your graveyard is empty, the ability will trigger. At that point, giving it away with Bazaar Trader won't help, because the ability will still be on the stack, and you will still lose when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-08T06:14:38.183" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T06:14:38.183" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26860" CreationDate="2015-09-08T10:02:17.677" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; Everything I said here previously was wrong, and rule 112.7a fully covers this issue, as detailed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/26862/1706&quot;&gt;ikegami's answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I found rule 112.7a ambiguous and my misreading of it was the source of my confusion. Because of this, I'll leave my answer here as an explanation of 112.7a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll break this into parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its last known information is used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The correct reading is that &quot;these cases&quot; (4) is referring to both (2) and (3), where I had previously read it as just (3) (i.e. cases where the ability causes the source to do something).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, in these cases where an ability needs to check its source, we sometimes do (5) and otherwise (6). In both (5) and (6), (7) says that if the source is gone, use its last known information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T16:03:31.307" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26867" CreationDate="2015-09-08T11:02:21.087" Score="28" ViewCount="5873" Body="&lt;p&gt;Follow on to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/26863/immortal-coil-state-based-actions&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; - with a similar setup, but a slightly different aim. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup:&lt;/strong&gt; I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBazaar%20Trader%5d&quot;&gt;Bazaar Trader&lt;/a&gt; in play and without summoning sickness and an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bImmortal%20Coil%5d&quot;&gt;Immortal Coil&lt;/a&gt; in hand. Neither I nor my opponent have any cards in their graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Is there a way for me to win the game by casting the Immortal Coil and then immediately giving it to my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What I think happens:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast Immortal Coil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immortal Coil resolves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immortal Coil checks my graveyard and finds no cards&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So it puts &quot;I lose the game&quot; on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response to that going on the stack I activate Bazaar Trader targeting my opponent and Immortal Coil&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That goes on the stack too&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is now {&quot;opponent gains control of Immortal Coil&quot;, &quot;I lose the game&quot;}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top of the stack resolves and my opponent now controls Immortal Coil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Immortal Coil checks my opponent's graveyard and finds no cards&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So it puts &quot;opponent loses the game&quot; on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is now {&quot;opponent loses the game&quot;, &quot;I lose the game&quot;}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top of the stack resolves and my opponent loses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens now? Do I win? Or does the other effect in the stack resolve and I also lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2018-12-14T02:02:52.097" Title="Can I win with a &quot;you lose&quot; effect on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2015-09-08T11:22:37.510" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, you could win while a &amp;quot;you lose&amp;quot; effect is on the stack. Winning/losing is a state-based action and the stack doesn't finish resolving if the game is over (e.g. a 2 player game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, with the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Immortal%20Coil&quot;&gt;Immortal Coil&lt;/a&gt; situation you describe, &lt;strong&gt;you lose&lt;/strong&gt;. This is because the Immortal Coil in question won't create another triggered ability on the stack until the first one isn't there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.8.&lt;/strong&gt; Some triggered abilities trigger when a game state (such as a player controlling no permanents of a particular card type) is true, rather than triggering when an event occurs. These abilities trigger as soon as the game state matches the condition. They'll go onto the stack at the next available opportunity. These are called state triggers. (Note that state triggers aren't the same as state-based actions.) &lt;strong&gt;A state-triggered ability doesn't trigger again until the ability has resolved, has been countered, or has otherwise left the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; Then, if the object with the ability is still in the same zone and the game state still matches its trigger condition, the ability will trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Immortal Coil can't trigger for your opponent until you've already lost the game, unless you're otherwise able to prevent or counter the ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the bit I'm not certain about and will look up, but I think if you could flicker the Immortal Coil once the opponent controls it, it &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; trigger, because the &amp;quot;new&amp;quot; Immortal Coil has no memory of being attached to the previous ability (still on the stack) and thus will create a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T11:22:37.510" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2015-09-08T11:26:08.360" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;A tricky one, and I fear I might be mistaken, but I suppose the answer still lies in 603.8 rule in the linked question (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.8.&lt;/strong&gt; Some triggered abilities trigger when a game state (such as a player controlling no permanents of a particular card type) is true, rather than triggering when an event occurs. These abilities trigger as soon as the game state matches the condition. They’ll go onto the stack at the next available opportunity. These are called state triggers. (Note that state triggers aren’t the same as state-based actions.) &lt;strong&gt;A state-triggered ability doesn’t trigger again until the ability has resolved, has been countered, or has otherwise left the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; Then, if the object with the ability is still in the same zone and the game state still matches its trigger condition, the ability will trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, even if Immortal Coil is now owned by your opponent with no cards in his graveyard, it won't trigger since its ability is on the stack. However, if you, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; it before it resolves, it will trigger again, but for your opponent now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T11:26:08.360" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="34363" CreationDate="2015-09-08T14:04:08.617" Score="5" ViewCount="1094" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a child (UK, born 1989 so playing it mid-to-late 90s I guess?) I played a game which (IIRC) centred around collecting animals from different environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The physical playing board was square, with I think 2 crossed pieces of card in the centre representing a mountain. In terms of playing space, the board was a circular set of playing spaces, split into quadrants representing different environments (jungle, dessert, ?savanna?, ?something else?) (possibly with playing spaces going up into the central mountain area).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't at all remember the nature of the game play except that it involved collecting animals from the different environments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone can identify the game, so that I can look online for a copy of it, for the nostalgia rush, I'd be really grateful :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13714" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T12:43:49.617" Title="Safari / ecology childs board game, collecting animal cards" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26870" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-08T16:06:52.287" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the publisher:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You have escaped the hostile alien ship that killed the captain, for now. However, they have chased you into an asteroid field. The asteroid field has protected you from the aliens, but a rogue asteroid has knocked your Jump Core offline and left your ship to drift in space. Will you try to get the Jump Core back online, or simply try to drift through the asteroid field? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This new mission will require a new strategy to win. The new alerts deck is full of all sorts of new atrocities to subject your crew to: It is more difficult than ever before. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;But it is not all doom and gloom. You and your crew have learned a few things since your last mission, and for that you'll receive new veteran abilities. Perhaps some of you will take on the role of Acting Captain while others might become a Sciengineer. In addition, there are a couple new battle plans that you failed to discover during the initial attack to make your job easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:27:57.593" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:27:57.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26871" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-08T16:06:52.287" Score="0" Body="This is the first and only expansion for The Captain is Dead." OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:27:57.593" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:27:57.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26872" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26876" CreationDate="2015-09-08T18:55:42.190" Score="2" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the game end when all 12 aliens board the ship, or does it end when the ship needs 13 or more on board (or something else)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T01:39:32.833" Title="What happens when all 12 aliens are on board?" Tags="|the-captain-is-dead|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25238" CreationDate="2015-09-08T22:36:45.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What that means is that if an alien is in a room with a system that is damaged such as engineering and the teleporter has damage then another damage token will be added to the teleporter. If the comm system also had damage to it but there are no aliens on the bridge then no damage tokens will be added to it when the aliens cause the teleporter to get another damage token. What is happening is that the aliens are just causing more damage in the area they currently are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-09-08T22:36:45.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26866" CreationDate="2015-09-09T00:50:46.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thing to note though is rule 109.5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. &lt;strong&gt;For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered&lt;/strong&gt;, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my understanding, this means even if the ability resolves when Immortal Coil is under you opponent's control, the ability will still cause &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However do see the last part of Vilmar's answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13727" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T00:50:46.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26872" CreationDate="2015-09-09T01:39:32.833" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulebook states the following on page 7 under &quot;ways to lose the game&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You'll also lose if you are asked to place a hostile alien on the board, and you don't have enough remaining to place. (See &quot;Hostile Aliens&quot; for details.)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you run out of aliens to add to the board, then you're done for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tavis Parker&#xA;The Game Crafter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13728" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T01:39:32.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25523" CreationDate="2015-09-09T17:01:04.763" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 9 of the rules &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/58/ea/58eabc7e-71dd-4a55-b639-78f91a90fc41/sl05_rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Terror Effects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player fails to complete a task and at least one of the rolled dice shows a terror result, he resolves all terror effects on the Adventure card, as well as any terror effects on the current Mythos card (see “Mythos Cards” on page 15). Terror effects occur before discarding a die due to failing a roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in a comment to a previous answer, Elder Signs: Omens, the iOS game, does not remove the impending terror effect if you secure a die by using spells.  The above rules text, if you take it strictly, states that if the rolled dice shows a terror symbol and you fail to complete a task, the effect occurs.  Strictly speaking, if you secure a die, that die still shows a terror symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would say this literal reading combined with the behavior of Omens strongly suggests that the ruling should be in favor of having the terror effect occur even if you were to secure the die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-09T17:01:04.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26890" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:41:18.047" Score="2" ViewCount="169" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dunwich expansion allows for drawing Madness or Injury cards in place of going insane or being rendered unconscious. Can this be used to draw both Injury and Madness when both go to zero? I believe given that this usually leads to being devoured and that there is no explicit mention of this in the Dunwich rules, the answer is no. Is there any supporting documentation otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T14:42:03.143" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:42:03.143" Title="Can a player take both a madness and injury card if his investigator gets reduced to zero stamina and sanity?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-dunwich-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4178" CreationDate="2015-09-10T00:48:27.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have some Expierence with Italy and Austria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Italy: don't focus yourself to one area. Take bits here and there, and make sure to talk to everyone. If you talk to everyone, you can directly influence how the game goes. For example, turn Austria against Turkey with yourself. Turn England and Germany against France before sneaking in and taking Marseilles. Always put yourself into a position where it is hard for the enemy to mount a counter-offensive because they have 2 or more enemies against them. Always make sure your &quot;allies&quot; have a new target ( or are the target themselves) before you become the target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Austria: Always watch out for that Italian backstab into Trieste. Never attack Germany or Italy early in the game. You really only have two options, Crush Turkey with Russia, or Crush Russia with Turkey. If you want to solo, typically allying with Russia is the better idea. Make sure you start building fleets as soon as you can without leaving your land-locked supply centers vulnerable. If Austria does not build enough fleets, they will easily be crushed later on in the game. Again, talking to everyone and manipulating the game to how you like is essential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13735" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T00:48:27.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26886" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:29:03.010" Score="6" ViewCount="2736" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the situation: I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fetid%20Imp&quot;&gt;Fetid Imp&lt;/a&gt; on the field, and my opponent has two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disowned%20Ancestor&quot;&gt;Disowned Ancestor&lt;/a&gt;s and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anafenza%2C%20the%20Foremost&quot;&gt;Anafenza, the Foremost&lt;/a&gt;. Now I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Languish&quot;&gt;Languish&lt;/a&gt; to give all creatures -4/-4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Fetid Imp exiled due to Anafenza's ability, or is it destroyed and sent to my graveyard as Anafenza dies at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T13:11:17.627" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T13:11:17.627" Title="If Anafenza, the Foremost dies at the same time as another creature, will the other creature be exiled?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26884" CreationDate="2015-09-10T05:50:42.973" Score="1" ViewCount="6207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing the Magic 2015 game on my xbox 360 (I know it has a lot of problems but its midly entertaining, I much prefer the card game though but this brought something to my attention and made me want to know if the game on box is wrong or if I am, since when I play with the cards I need to know the rules since we obviously won't just have a judge sitting there the whole time haha)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pretty simple story&#xA;They attacked with a 4/1 (Don't remember what it was but it had no abilities) so after combat it became tapped&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flesh%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Flesh to Dust&lt;/a&gt; but it refused to let me target their tapped creature&#xA;Flesh to dust has no special rules on targetting just &amp;quot;Target creature&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it doesn't matter if their creature is tapped. Am I wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:56:26.603" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:57:10.207" Title="Is a tapped creature an illegal target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26882" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:19:58.317" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flesh%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Flesh to Dust&lt;/a&gt; says &amp;quot;target creature&amp;quot;, so the target must be a creature. Period. Whether it's tapped or not is of no consequence. Same goes for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Akroan%20Mastiff&quot;&gt;Akroan Mastiff&lt;/a&gt;'s ability; it simply won't do anything on resolution if the creature is still tapped then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hexproof, Shroud, Protection and other abilities can impose additional limits. Don't forget that creatures can be granted abilities (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Greaves&quot;&gt;Lightning Greaves&lt;/a&gt;), and that creatures can be the subject of continuous effects created by abilities of other permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:57:10.207" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:57:10.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26881" CreationDate="2015-09-10T06:53:06.690" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anafenza's relevant ability is not a triggered ability. It's a static ability that creates a continuous replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect from Anafenza's ability modifies the instruction &amp;quot;Put Fetid Imp, the two Disowned Ancestors and Anafenza into their owner's graveyard&amp;quot; because replacement effects must necessarily be applied before taking the action they replace, at which time Anafenza is still on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Void%20Maw&quot;&gt;Void Maw&lt;/a&gt;. Void Maw has the ability &amp;quot;If another creature would die, exile it instead&amp;quot;, and the ruling reads &amp;quot;If Void Maw and another creature would be put into the graveyard from the battlefield at the same time, [...] the other creature is exiled.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, @Vilmar points out &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/articles/2015/08/06/modern-rules-problems-anafenza-the-foremost/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt;, which specifically answers this question (in the &amp;quot;Anafenza and Day of Judgment&amp;quot; section).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T07:02:16.750" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T07:02:16.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26887" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26888" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:27:53.223" Score="2" ViewCount="1480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, I am thinking of a situation: say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Outland%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Outland Colossus&lt;/a&gt; attacks and deals damage to a player. Before the Renown ability resolves, can I activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mizzium%20Meddler&quot;&gt;Mizzium Meddler&lt;/a&gt; to steal the six +1/+1 counters? Is Renown an ability that Mizzium Meddler can steal? I am not sure how Renown works on the stack, if at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T13:56:59.647" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:50:49.193" Title="Can Mizzium Meddler steal the effect of a Renown ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26887" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:33:38.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mizzium Meddler cannot 'steal' the Renown of the Colossus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because Renown is not a targeted ability, it just effects the creature it is on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.111a&lt;/strong&gt; Renown is a triggered ability. “Renown N” means “When this creature deals combat damage to a player, if it isn’t renowned, put N +1/+1 counters on it and it becomes renowned.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there is no mention of targeting anywhere in the rules, thus the Meddler cannot redirect it. Note that the Meddler can still target the ability, it will just do nothing since there are no targets to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Mizzium Meddler’s triggered ability targets a spell or ability with no targets, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T13:33:38.917" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26887" CreationDate="2015-09-10T13:37:34.067" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot. Renown is a triggered ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.111a &lt;strong&gt;Renown is a triggered ability&lt;/strong&gt;. “Renown N” means “When this creature deals combat damage to a player, if it isn’t renowned, put N +1/+1 counters on it and it becomes renowned.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is not targeted, since to be considered one it should have the word &quot;target&quot; in it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1d A triggered ability is targeted if it identifies something it will affect by using &lt;strong&gt;the phrase “target [something],”&lt;/strong&gt; where the “something” is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone. The target(s) are chosen as the ability is put on the stack; see rule 603.3d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore you can target triggered Renown ability, but nothing will happen since you won't be able to change the target as Renown doesn't have one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T13:37:34.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26879" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:41:36.510" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The investigator is devoured.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/f2/e7/f2e7b093-5f2c-4dc5-8f9c-b3663580bb59/dunwich_horror_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Dunwich Horror rulebook&lt;/a&gt; reiterates the basic rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an investigator is reduced to both 0 Sanity and 0&#xA;  Stamina at the same time, that investigator is devoured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:41:36.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26887" CreationDate="2015-09-10T14:50:49.193" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only three things target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells and abilities on the stack that have the word &quot;target&quot; in their text.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells and abilities on the stack that have a keyword ability that has the word &quot;target&quot; in their text.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auras on the stack (since the rules for them uses the word &quot;target&quot;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Renown&quot; is keyword ability, but it doesn't have the word &quot;target&quot; in its text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.111a Renown is a triggered ability. “Renown N” means “When this creature deals combat damage to a player, if it isn’t renowned, put N +1/+1 counters on it and it becomes renowned.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mizzium Meddler can't affect the ability since it has no target to change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T14:50:49.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26882" CreationDate="2015-09-10T15:01:32.157" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless some other ability (such as Hexproof) or effect prevents it, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flesh%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Flesh to Dust&lt;/a&gt; can target any creature. It says so on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flesh to Dust an Instant, so you can cast it whenever you have priority. You get priority during the declare attackers phase, so you should have the opportunity to cast Flesh to Dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Phases behave differently in Magic 2015 for XBox 360.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike paper Magic, the game moves along without waiting for you. You only have a few seconds to cast spells after attackers are declared before the game decides that it is time for you to declare blockers. If you do not hit the pause button or cast your spell quickly enough, then you have missed your chance (for now). The game simply will not let you cast spells while declaring blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-10T15:09:00.257" LastActivityDate="2015-09-10T15:09:00.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26894" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:07:37.153" Score="6" ViewCount="839" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last turn, player A casted &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22At%20the%20beginning%20of%20your%20next%20upkeep,%20pay%22%5D+%5B%22If%20you%20don%27t,%20you%20lose%20the%20game.%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;a Pact spell&lt;/a&gt;, and then a copy of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, controlled by player B, resolved while targeting player A. ​ In player A's untap step, player A untapped 5 basic lands of the type that corresponds to the Pact spell's color. ​ Tapping those lands for mana is the only way to tap those lands, and paying for the Pact spell's delayed triggered ability is the only way for player A to spend the mana which those lands can produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can player B nonetheless choose to have player A not pay for that triggered ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pact spells do not make the payment optional, but there is precedent for players &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=276475&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;not being forced to pay costs&lt;/a&gt;. ​ (See the two sentences with the word &amp;quot;forced&amp;quot; in that link.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13741" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T02:10:25.350" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T14:39:38.420" Title="Mindslaver vs. the Pact cycle" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26893" CreationDate="2015-09-11T02:18:04.360" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player B &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; choose to not tap the lands, and thus be unable to pay the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Costs&quot;&gt;Rule 117.3c&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Activating mana abilities is not mandatory, even if paying a cost is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when the ability resolves, player B can choose not to tap the lands, then player A fails to pay the cost because they do not have enough mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T14:39:38.420" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T14:39:38.420" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26896" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:10:40.207" Score="5" ViewCount="1745" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Felidar%20Sovereign&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; is being reprinted in Battle for Zendikar, I have a question about the win condition and nobody I know can help. I was hoping someone on here could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am at over 40 life with a Felidar Sovereign in the graveyard and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheoldred%2C%20Whispering%20One&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, can I use Sheoldred's ability to bring the Felidar back in my upkeep and win the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-09-11T13:42:02.287" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T13:42:02.287" Title="If Felidar Sovereign enters the battlefield during my upkeep, will he trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26895" CreationDate="2015-09-11T13:20:34.627" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you will not win the game this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because both abilities are triggered abilities with &quot;At the beginning of your upkeep&quot; as the trigger. But the Sovereign is in the graveyard at the beginning of your upkeep so it will not trigger, and after Sheoldred's ability resolves and the Sovereign is one the battlefield it is no longer the beginning of your upkeep so it will not trigger this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T13:20:34.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25711" CreationDate="2015-09-11T14:16:51.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I recall, Mad Mod is not an Ongoing card, so therefore the effect (+2 power, discard an Ongoing card for an attack) happens only once.  By his argument, you could also get 200 power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13736" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T14:16:51.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22886" CreationDate="2015-09-11T19:07:56.850" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I wouldn't call it a &quot;significant study&quot; as far as initial placement strategies, there is a blog that I found a while ago which gets into an analysis of playing (and winning) SoC from a mathematical perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blog is called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://developingcatan.wordpress.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Developing Catan&lt;/a&gt;&quot;, and includes the application of several types of mathematical analysis to the game based on the writer's personal experience playing SoC on a frequent basis, both in person and online. In particular, some of the analysis in &lt;a href=&quot;https://developingcatan.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/settlers-of-catan-analysis.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this pdf&lt;/a&gt; discusses probabilities of winning without starting on any particular resource, which answers at least part of your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13511" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T19:07:56.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8787" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:08:14.530" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Frejya gets hosed more if he has to deal with Fenrir though, as his ability often requires utilizing it with a 3rd action to make better use of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I too like to see Thor in more games than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when you add in the Asgard expansion, some of the existing Gods shine when using their Trance ability, as well as interact with the new set of 6 Gods.  Not to mention Trancing was made to deal with the game being more difficult with larger player counts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:08:14.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1747" CreationDate="2015-09-11T21:20:04.327" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing with 2p, use the next difficulty level in terms of # of Epidemics.  For example, if you play 4p on &quot;Easy&quot; (4 Epidemic cards), then with 2p, play on &quot;normal&quot; (5 Epidemics) to get the same effect of difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have On The Brink expansion, rather than adding another Epidemic, consider adding in the Virulent Strain.  The rules for that is only 1 page long, so you should be able to learn it in no time.  Mutation Challenge is more involving even if it's still only 1 page as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T21:20:04.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26838" CreationDate="2015-09-11T22:52:09.303" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) If all but you gets cards that provide $ from 1 or 2 valued rolls, then it kind of does devolve into that.  Early on, get a few of those cards, but then shoot for 2 dice, and some cards that trigger on the 4 - 10 range.  You'll be able to leech off of the single-die players, but can still do your own thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) play with the variant where not all cards are available at all times.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) The expansions add even more cards to the mix that allow #2 to be even more feasible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2015-09-11T22:52:09.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5247" CreationDate="2015-09-12T01:35:32.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I have played through all the adventures but the last one, Ithaqua, I have developed a pretty good set of companions to take with me. Using Loren Dean's advice I started with Harvey Walters, Michael McGlen, Kate Winthrop, and Gloria Goldberg. Harvey and Michael are great for adventures that require many Lore or Peril roles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I decided the goal of my party was to have as many dice to play with as possible. With that In mind I switched out Kate for Jenny Barnes. Jenny's ability to use up an item to get a red die and a yellow die made her almost invincible. At the same time I took Amanda Sharpe whose ability to complete multiple adventures in one turn allowed her to fulfill Kate's role of dealing with terror plagued adventures Often taking them out with just one role. Keeping Gloria for Portal adventures always payed off. I also kept Harvey. It seemed that his high sanity became more important in later adventures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game became very addictive for me. The Dark Pharaoh adventure was the best. Deciding which allies to take and trying to keep my stock of trophies full to take advantage of their powers was great fun. With the team above I was able to finish it in a couple of tries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13698" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T01:35:32.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26933" CreationDate="2015-09-12T02:26:25.600" Score="3" ViewCount="108" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Threads of Fate plot rule states &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[Loop Start] Place 2 Paranoia on all characters who had Goodwill last&#xA;  loop&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spreading incident allows for Goodwill to be moved from a character to another character. So my question is, does this plot rule apply to characters who had Goodwill &lt;strong&gt;at any time&lt;/strong&gt; or just characters who &lt;strong&gt;ended&lt;/strong&gt; the loop with Goodwill?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T21:04:26.117" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T21:04:26.117" Title="Which characters do Threads of Fate plot rule apply to?" Tags="|tragedy-looper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27166" CreationDate="2015-09-12T04:39:12.623" Score="4" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Jungle Variant involves a jungle hex that produces &quot;Discovery Tokens&quot; which can be used toward purchasing Development Cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, Cities &amp;amp; Knights has no Development Cards to purchase. Is there any sub-variant that allows you to combine the jungle tile with Cities and Knights? Any alternative rules for its use when you play with C&amp;amp;K?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:01:45.787" Title="Is it possible to combine the Jungle variant tile with Cities &amp; Knights?" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2015-09-12T05:03:36.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played high and low--high is for the risk averse and kind of boring to play.  When my opponents open strong NT, I interfere with the Multi-Landy when I can to messes with their transfers and Stayman conventions--most pairs don't have a defense for Multi-Landy, feel they have to get to Game but are left with limited bidding space and very annoyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I like 12-14 NT when not vul and 14 NT when vul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice over 6 years, this has worked out really well.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This pre-empt forces our opponents to bid up and then they often end up too high if they are weak.  If they are strong, they usually get to Game regardless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exit transfers take care of doubles, and most of the times we've had to resort to them, opponents either decided to bid or we ended up in a 7-cd suit at the 2-level for a 'good' sacrifice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can't make this work to your ultimate advantage though, if you don't use conventions: 4-way Transfers, Stayman, Exit Transfers.  And learn Multi-Landy to defend against strong NT players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13751" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T05:03:36.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26915" CreationDate="2015-09-12T05:27:48.600" Score="3" ViewCount="202" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the scenario where a player has 9 cards at the end of their turn and drawing two more cards gives them a &lt;strong&gt;Tenacious Z&lt;/strong&gt;, can they discard it and play it if one hasn't already been played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In step #5 of the rules, &quot;Shut It Down&quot;, it states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anything that happens at the end of the turn happens here. Play passes to the player on the left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;strong&gt;Tenacious Z&lt;/strong&gt; is a special card, it also states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Special: During your turn you many play this card from you discard pile as an extra minion. You may only use the ability of one Tenacious Z each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a turn involves five steps, is this card still playable after drawing two more cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T19:03:35.490" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T19:03:35.490" Title="Can a Tenacious Z be Played After Drawing Two Cards?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26911" CreationDate="2015-09-12T05:44:33.803" Score="1" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a &lt;strong&gt;First Mate&lt;/strong&gt; (power of 2) has been poisoned&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] Ongoing: This minion has -4 power. (Minions have minimum power of 0.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if a &lt;strong&gt;Howl&lt;/strong&gt; action card has been played&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each of your minions gains +1 power until the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How much power is the card worth after &lt;strong&gt;Howl&lt;/strong&gt; has been played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the +1 from &lt;strong&gt;Howl&lt;/strong&gt; added before &lt;strong&gt;Poison&lt;/strong&gt;? After &lt;strong&gt;Poison&lt;/strong&gt;? Or are all modifiers added up at any given time during the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Base 2 - Poison 4 + Howl 1) = -1 –&gt; Min of zero&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(Base 2 - Poison 4 (Min of zero)) + Howl 1) = 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do cards with minimums apply before other actions, or do they adhere to the commutative property of addition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T19:12:56.103" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T19:12:56.103" Title="Order of Operations on Actions" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:05:12.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've successfully used adding more time for less experienced players, allowing one and two letter words in addition to normal words for the younger players, and eliminating words on the experienced player's lists while not eliminating them from the younger player's lists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's way more fun when everyone has an actual chance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13752" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T06:05:12.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26909" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26910" CreationDate="2015-09-12T06:09:41.773" Score="2" ViewCount="780" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can an ongoing action card played on a minion be destroyed when an action played on a base is preventing minions from being affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A minion has &lt;strong&gt;Tooth and Claw... and Guns&lt;/strong&gt; applied to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play on a minion. Ongoing: If an ability would affect this minion, destroy this card and the ability does not affect this minion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If another player uses &lt;strong&gt;Disenchant&lt;/strong&gt; on that minion,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy an action that has been played on a minion or base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would &lt;strong&gt;Wildlife Preserve&lt;/strong&gt; (played on that base) block this entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play on a base. Ongoing: Your minions here are not affected by other players' actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the play of the &lt;strong&gt;Disenchant&lt;/strong&gt; destroy &lt;strong&gt;Tooth and Claw... and Guns&lt;/strong&gt; and avoid the base card (&lt;strong&gt;Wildlife Preserve&lt;/strong&gt;) since its play doesn't affect the minion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, does this actually affect the minion by effectively &quot;un-guarding&quot; the minion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastEditorUserId="38" LastEditDate="2015-09-12T19:06:28.743" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T19:06:28.743" Title="Does affecting an action card affect the Minion it has been played on?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26909" CreationDate="2015-09-12T11:49:02.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Does affecting an action card affect the Minion it has been played on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Can an ongoing action card played on a minion be destroyed when an action played on a base is preventing minions from being affected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;most recent rules&lt;/a&gt; (Pretty Pretty Smash Up), page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Affect:&lt;/strong&gt; A card is affected if it is moved, returned, destroyed, placed, or is changed in power or controller, or has an action attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing an action is none of these. Even if you were removing an action that gave +2 power, the action doing the &lt;strong&gt;removal&lt;/strong&gt; isn't changing the the minion's power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T11:49:02.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26907" CreationDate="2015-09-12T11:54:10.443" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I've mentioned in the comments &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24488/can-minions-have-negative-power&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, you add up the modifiers acting on the minion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The power of a minion not in play is only the number printed on it, but once in play its power includes all modifications. Its power may never go below zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you add up all the modifications, and if it's below 0 at the end, it's 0 instead. If a new modification comes in, you reevalute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T11:54:10.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25501" CreationDate="2015-09-12T12:39:00.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recruitment phase is specifically at the beginning of an age before players have received cards.  I would agree that Maecenas would only get the bonus during this phase and not if leader is put in play by any other means.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T12:39:00.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2015-09-12T13:30:48.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Judges guild had a module called &quot;Dark Tower&quot; and made a parody to go along with it &quot;Legendary Duck Tower&quot; where a lot of things in the dungeon were replaced with Ducks. Probably a long shot, but could be a good homage to it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13754" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T13:30:48.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26906" CreationDate="2015-09-12T15:33:33.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pretty Pretty Smash Up rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;On your turn:&lt;/strong&gt; This means during the normal Play Cards phase of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turn order is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start Turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Cards &lt;em&gt;(normal time for plays)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Score Bases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw 2 Cards &lt;em&gt;(and then discard)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End Turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the time you're drawing and discarding, you've missed the window of opportunity for Tenacious Z's special. If it wanted to override this limitation, it would have to be explicit (e.g. &quot;during any phase on your turn&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T15:33:33.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26922" CreationDate="2015-09-12T17:15:55.590" Score="2" ViewCount="59" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dunwich rules don't seem to explicitly say this on page 6. Do these monsters stay when there is an investigator with them, or do they perhaps even opt to pursue one of lower sneak if they are adjacent but there is already one on its area? I figured they stay, but don't see a direct reference to this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T21:29:48.360" Title="Does a stalker monsters always stay if there is an investigator in its current area or location?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-dunwich-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26918" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:02:28.927" Score="2" ViewCount="386" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a &lt;strong&gt;Microbot Alpha&lt;/strong&gt; has been played, it gives an ongoing action of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] All of your minions are considered Microbots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Does this include minions in your discard pile?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question came up in a game where a subsequent &lt;strong&gt;Microbot Reclaimer&lt;/strong&gt; was played, which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] Shuffle any number of Microbots from your discard pile into your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this combination allow for reclaiming minions &quot;considered&quot; as Microbots, even when they are in the discard pile as well as from another faction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:36:19.233" Title="Can Non-Robot Minions be Reclaimed via Microbot Reclaimer?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-09-14T15:33:19.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26920" CreationDate="2015-09-12T19:20:31.473" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Microbot Archive&lt;/strong&gt; minion states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ongoing: After one of your Microbots (including this one) is destroyed, draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume, since it doesn't specify, that this applies to all Microbots on all bases, not just the current base it has been played on. Can someone please verify?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T20:17:10.883" Title="Does Microbot Archive Apply to all Bases?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26919" CreationDate="2015-09-12T20:17:10.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; There's no rules reference for this one since it's just about the card, but as you correctly identified, it doesn't reference a particular base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T20:17:10.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26916" CreationDate="2015-09-12T21:29:48.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic monster movement rules state that monsters don't move when they are in the same space as an investigator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any reason to think that the stalker addition in Dunwich changes this in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-09-12T21:29:48.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="203" CreationDate="2015-09-13T03:29:38.210" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;What about buying extra tiles, and stacking them atop placed tiles, when all the first tiles have been placed? This would give a more 3 dimensional aspect to the game, like UpWords gives a 3 dimensional aspect to Scrabble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13758" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T03:29:38.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T04:36:54.887" Score="0" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a very specific situation in mind.  My friend attacks me with some flying creatures, one of which is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angel%20of%20Serenity&quot;&gt;Angel of Serenity&lt;/a&gt;.  Before I declare blockers, I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moonmist&quot;&gt;Moonmist&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Atarka%27s%20Command&quot;&gt;Atarka&amp;#39;s Command&lt;/a&gt; on my werewolves to block them.  My friend then plays a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; on Angel of Serenity; does her ability happen at that moment while we're fighting?  That is, does he exile three of my werewolves and remove the angel from combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13759" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T05:46:17.103" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:17:51.537" Title="Cloudshifting Angel of Serenity in the middle of combat" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26838" CreationDate="2015-09-13T20:18:56.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The probleme you mention in your question is that all the player use a fast strategy to win the game :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy as many Convenience Stores as you can.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occasionally buy some Cafes and Bakeries, but primarily:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Save up for a Shopping Mall.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Construct the Radio Tower, then the Amusement Park, and then the Train Station.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution I found is to apply the rule introduced in the first expansion set : &amp;quot;The Harbor&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule is really simple, to sum it up :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of playing with all the establishments available on the board at the beginning of the game, limit the number of establishments available by :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of the game shuffle all the establishments in one stack face down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw cards, put them on the board (face up) until you have 10 diferents stacks. (same cards are grouped)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now players have a limited choice of establishments to buy, they can only buy establishments available on the 10 stacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one of the 10 stacks is empty :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw a card from the stack created in 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Put it on the board as a new stack, or group-it if it's already on the board. If you grouped the card repeat the process until you recreate the missing stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the game very interesting but very unbalance in its 'vanilla' version due to these 'fast strategies', the new rule introduced by the Harbor tends to improve the balance, even if you don't have the expansion. By the way the Harbor expansion introduces/adds new establishments that make the game way more balanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T20:18:56.387" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26929" CreationDate="2015-09-13T21:25:30.847" Score="5" ViewCount="6732" Body="&lt;p&gt;I did some calculation and found out, that my Living End deck (modern) might be better of with 66 cards maindeck. SB still contains of 15 cards.&#xA;Depending on the match up, I'd like to cut my deck for game two down to the normal 60. The SB than would contain 15+6 = 21 cards.&#xA;Is this legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T15:00:13.843" Title="MTG: Sideboard if maindeck has more than 60 cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26928" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:06:56.783" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In constructed play your sideboard can not contain more than 15 cards at any time. The relevant rule here is rule 100.4a from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150717.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;, for constructed play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100.4. Each player may also have a sideboard, which is a group of additional cards the player may use to modify his or her deck between&#xA;games of a match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;100.4a In constructed play, a sideboard may contain no more than fifteen cards. The four-card limit (see rule 100.2a) applies to the&#xA;combined deck and sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No specific circumstances are mentioned so it applies at all times. This rule was updated with the M14 core set. Matt Tabak explained it as follows in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/magic-2014-core-set-rules-preview-2013-05-23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;M14 rules preview&lt;/a&gt; article (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the new rule, your main deck is still sixty or more cards but your sideboard is now up to fifteen cards. Additionally, you are not required to swap cards between your main deck and sideboard on a one-for-one basis. &lt;strong&gt;For Games 2 and 3 (and so on), as long as your main deck is sixty or more cards and your sideboard is no more than fifteen cards, you're good.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T15:00:13.843" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T15:00:13.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26925" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:42:44.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Angel's abilities trigger when it enters or leaves the battlefield.  Exile, even for just long enough of one instant's effect, counts as leaving the battlefield, and coming back into play counts as entering it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any cards previously exiled by the Angel would return to your hand, and a new set of three creatures can be chosen for exile.  It's all right there, and it all happens right then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T22:42:44.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26925" CreationDate="2015-09-13T22:46:50.480" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend can play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; before or after you have declared blockers. Either way Cloudshift will resolve before the combat damage step. This means their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Angel%20of%20Serenity&quot;&gt;Angel of Serenity&lt;/a&gt; is removed from combat, your friend may choose to exile up to three creatures, and any previously exiled cards are returned to their owner's hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm correct this is the order in which everything happens, assuming your friend casts Cloudshift after you declared blockers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent casts Cloudshift targeting Angel of Serenity, this goes on the stack and it resolves (assuming no counter spells and no further combat tricks).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angel of Serenity gets exiled (is removed from combat) and its &lt;em&gt;leaves the battlefield&lt;/em&gt; ability triggers. Then the Angel of Serenity card returns to the battlefield, creating a new instance of the Angel, and its &lt;em&gt;enters the battlefield&lt;/em&gt; ability triggers. Both triggers then go on the stack in either order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As the &lt;em&gt;enters the battlefield&lt;/em&gt; ability goes on the stack, opponent may choose up to three target creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angel of Serenity's &lt;em&gt;enters the battlefield&lt;/em&gt; ability resolves and the chosen target creatures are exiled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Angel of Serenity's &lt;em&gt;leaves the battlefield&lt;/em&gt; ability resolves and any previously exiled creatures are returned to their owners hands. These are any creatures that were exiled when the original instance of Angel of Serenity entered the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the stack is empty and both players pass priority you move to the combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12626" LastEditorUserId="12626" LastEditDate="2015-09-13T23:17:51.537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:17:51.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-13T23:04:25.567" Score="1" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Crop Circles expansion the rules for choosing Option A (placing additional meeples) was ambiguous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For option B, it's quite clear that everybody, starting at the active player's left, must remove a meeple of the type denoted by the crop circle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it wasn't clear on option A, whether the players MUST place an additional meeple, or whether they could choose not to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T09:11:32.653" Title="Crop Circles expansion - Do players HAVE to place a meeple?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26903" CreationDate="2015-09-13T23:47:19.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on rulings from Simon Lundström (who translated the rules), as stated &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/17970977#17970977&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The subplot says (or should say) &quot;characters who had at least one goodwill at the end of the previous loop&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So only the characters (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/18016478#18016478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;including corpses&lt;/a&gt;) who had a Goodwill counter on them at the end of the loop get 2 Paranoia on them at the start of the next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-09-13T23:47:19.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26934" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26942" CreationDate="2015-09-14T01:11:23.677" Score="4" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Force Awakens X-Wing core set is currently shipping now. There are new paint schemes for the X-wing and TIE fighter miniatures. The fantasy  flight website reveals this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Force Awakens Core Set introduces rules for playing with your Resistance and First Order forces alongside the game’s three existing factions, and that means you can look forward to giving Luke Skywalker an Integrated Astromech, flying your swarm of TIE/fo fighters alongside “Howlrunner,” and shutting down focus tokens with Carnor Jax , only to Juke your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When can I get this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know the changes to the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13766" LastEditorUserId="13766" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T07:44:35.253" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T17:23:52.410" Title="What's up with the New X-Wing Core Set? 2015" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26932" CreationDate="2015-09-14T09:11:32.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Carcassonne_Mini_Crop_Circles.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crop circle rules&lt;/a&gt; are slightly ambiguous but my reading of option A is that all players MAY place an extra follower on a tile they have a follower, but if they do it MUST be with a follower of the same type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it reads better if you put the rules together rather than separating them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He then decides for every player, starting with the player to his left, if:&#xA;A) they can place another follower on a tile where they already have a follower&#xA;of the type designated by the crop circle.... the player must place the new follower with another one of his followers of the same type (a farmer with a farmer, a thief with a thief, a knight with a knight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T09:11:32.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26937" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-14T10:00:59.390" Score="6" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine you have just finished playing Carcassonne - you have an interesting, pseudo-randomly generated map. Are there any (published) games that you can play on that map?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or are there any other pairs of games that you can play so that the first game is the setup for the second?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T10:00:59.390" Title="Playing a game on a &quot;complete&quot; Carcassonne board" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2015-09-14T18:07:33.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26938" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2015-09-14T11:22:42.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1, try making your fleet supply area a logistic command were it effects your max actions per game round, take away fleet limits(this is really fun, I even use poker chips under my ships as additional ship counters)&#xA;2, the biggest time consumer is peoples play style you need to force people to plan ahead during other peoples actions unless they are directly effected, time limits on player turns is a must , i use a 2 min rule except for during combat rolling&#xA;3,i always set up the board beforehand this can take 2 hrs easy, since you and your friends plan ahead to play this type of game anyway(who spontaneously decides to play twilight imperium?)preplan a balance game board ,or a random system for set up.&#xA;4, early exspation is fun but takes up 2/3rds of the game play, either asign double or triple your starting units and/or give extra planets away to the players at set up this aways cut 2 hrs of my game times or more and I like long games&#xA;5,last but not least &lt;strong&gt;no production limits&lt;/strong&gt; you want to speed game play up that will cut a game in half right there. and still keep the core game in tact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13776" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T11:22:42.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9561" CreationDate="2015-09-14T12:30:51.927" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shoeboxmtg.com/decksearch.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shoebox&lt;/a&gt; is almost what you want. It's new, so  at the moment you can only compare your collection to top decks on TCGplayer.com between certain dates. There's also MTG Goldfish's SuperBrew feature, which wasn't worth it for my small collection either. Cube it is!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13777" LastEditorUserId="13777" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T16:18:37.863" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T16:18:37.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26918" CreationDate="2015-09-14T14:02:14.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As included in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pretty Pretty Smash Up rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;A minion&quot; or &quot;minions&quot; means any minions in play unless stated otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that minions in your discard pile are not affected by an action that states &quot;minions&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, minions in your discard pile are not classed as Microbots due to the Alpha as they are not in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13779" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-09-14T14:36:19.233" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T14:36:19.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26934" CreationDate="2015-09-14T17:23:52.410" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for &lt;strong&gt;when &amp;amp; where&lt;/strong&gt;, I'll leave you to Google-search that one, but the details of &lt;strong&gt;what's changed&lt;/strong&gt; are actually really cool!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;No rules changes, only additions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest thing to know about the new Core set is that there are no rules changes, no new templates or dice. There are a couple of new maneuvers for the ships like the new Tallon Roll, but they're just like the additional actions introduced in expansions like the SLAM or Cloak rulings: just adding more flavor and options for ship and squadron design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;This is not your father's TIE fighter or X-Wing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;your father&amp;quot;... see what I did there??&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The TIE Fighter included in the original Core set is the TIE/ln starfighter (the original TIE from Episode IV), but the TIE Fighter included in the new Core set is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2015/9/8/swx36-strength-in-numbers/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TIE/fo starfighter&lt;/a&gt;, the version from the new Episode VII movie coming in December. Likewise, the X-Wing in the original Core set is the T-65 starfighter (commonly called an X-Wing due to the &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; shape the S-Foils make), while the one included in this new Core set is the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2015/9/7/updating-a-classic/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;T-70 starfighter&lt;/a&gt; also from the new movie. The stat lines, point costs, upgrades, pilot skills, and pretty much everything else are slightly tweaked to make these new ships distinct and different from their Original Trilogy counterparts without invalidating the originals in game play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If I own the original Core set, should I buy the new one?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, it's worth having two core sets just for the extra dice and templates, and this is a great way to get those and some of the new ships as well. If you already have two of the original Core sets, it's up to you as to whether it's worth buying this Core set, or just buying the individual ships when Wave VIII comes out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T17:23:52.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="543" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:08:45.097" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I play Boggle with my SO and brother (both way better than me) I always score the number of total words I get against myself in previous rounds to try and beat that number as well.  &quot;Best game yet today!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if that'd work for kids, but it's another number more within their control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does require some patience and acknowledgement that some boards are harder than others.  Makes me try harder though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T22:03:48.023" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:03:48.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25203" CreationDate="2015-09-14T21:27:29.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, the candles should be treated as items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At no point does the haunt specify item &lt;strong&gt;cards&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Item&lt;/strong&gt; tokens and &lt;strong&gt;item&lt;/strong&gt; cards are all items, as are most omens. As you pointed out, the rulebook clarifies that item tokens are just like other items, except when the haunt specifies otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-14T21:27:29.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26951" CreationDate="2015-09-15T07:14:59.980" Score="1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;When deploying extra followers from a crop circle action, I'm not sure which meeple count as followers. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CAR&lt;/a&gt; states that players may take one of their own followers from their supply and deploy it next to another of their followers already on a landscape tile. It also reads that players must deploy the follower to a feature which already contains a follower of the same type (farmer to a farmer, thief to a thief, knight to a knight).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would exclude the builder or wagon, I suppose. But not the big follower... But the mayor would count as a knight when it's in a city. Does it, however, count as a follower in your supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which meeples can be placed onto the board next to another follower, as the result of an action from a crop circle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:33:35.113" Title="With Carcasonne crop circles expansion, which meeples count as followers?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26947" CreationDate="2015-09-15T07:49:30.000" Score="6" ViewCount="3890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm debating between the two versions as it is only a few dollars difference. Would any of you who own the Deluxe version say this is worth it? The board piece sounds appealing but I hear the packaging box takes up a lot of space. I can't seem to find Deluxe copies in my area to compare the size and will have to order online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friends do have other packs such as Munchkin Cthulhu and its expansions, if that's helpful at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13783" LastEditorUserId="13058" LastEditDate="2019-03-25T23:16:43.853" LastActivityDate="2019-03-25T23:16:43.853" Title="Munchkin vs Munchkin Deluxe" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="26947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26946" CreationDate="2015-09-15T13:07:27.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, table games that can be played without a gameboard tend to be played without the gameboard. In our group, we have Bang and Dixit for example, both came with nicely decorated boards that are now sitting in the &quot;leftover parts&quot; stack. The games can be played just as well without them, the required area to play is a bit smaller and more flexible. Oh, and the boxes are also lighter and smaller if we carry the games to another place to play there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion you should go for the normal edition, except maybe if you only ever plan to play at home, on your huge table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7131" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T13:07:27.107" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-15T15:42:47.290" Score="4" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bioshift&quot;&gt;Bioshift&lt;/a&gt; targets a creature, THEN another one for the recipient of the counters, can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swerve&quot;&gt;Swerve&lt;/a&gt; to change the target? If so, which target can it be, the first or the second, or any?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13786" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T16:18:29.827" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T08:52:46.697" Title="Can you Swerve Bioshift?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26948" CreationDate="2015-09-15T15:45:20.003" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only Swerve a spell with a single target. Bioshift has two targets (as it mentions &quot;target creature&quot; twice), so it cannot be Swerved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="12631" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T15:59:30.367" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T15:59:30.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26948" CreationDate="2015-09-15T15:59:11.443" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to expand on what Matt said, Bioshift has two targets, &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; of which must be declared at the time of casting. Even if a spell specifies that one effect happens after the other, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107277&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biomantic Mastery&lt;/a&gt;, the targets must still be declared together and Swerve won't be able to target the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also applies to spells that have two separate effects that target, such as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=141819&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cryptic Command&lt;/a&gt; cast for its first and second modes. Cast like this it cannot be Swerve'd, but if it were cast for the first and third modes then it only has one target, and you can use Swerve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastEditorUserId="10047" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T08:52:46.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T08:52:46.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26945" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:30:23.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a clarification on page 206 of the rules you link to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Followers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every normal follower, big follower, mayor, wagon, or phantom follower is just one follower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Special figures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Builders, pigs, barns, and shepherds belong to individual players but are not followers.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are adding a follower with crop circles you may add any of the followers. The only exception to this being a Mayor can only be placed as a Knight in a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-15T18:33:35.113" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T18:33:35.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20643" CreationDate="2015-09-15T17:37:30.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 10 Gold cities, 12 Marble and 12 Iron cities in the physical game.  These tiles are all double sided to mark which player owns them.  So 10 Gold cities is the maximum limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T17:37:30.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20643" CreationDate="2015-09-15T19:43:45.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Yucata rules state (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game material comes in limited quantity. If a player has no more&#xA;  legions or galleys, or &lt;strong&gt;if the bank has no more city tokens or temples,&#xA;  the supply is empty&lt;/strong&gt;. Only resource chips are unlimited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;24 galleys (12 per player color brown and beige)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;24 legions (12 per player color brown and beige)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12 temples (white)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10 gold-cities&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12 marble-cities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12 iron-cities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;12 Town Walls&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-15T19:43:45.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26955" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26959" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:12:22.327" Score="2" ViewCount="1828" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Armory/Powerderhouse/Poudrière: During your turn, you may destroy the Armory in order to destory any other district card of your choice in another player's city&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We are wondering if this district can be used against a player who just finished it's citadel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastEditorUserId="5168" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T19:04:38.270" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T20:59:59.587" Title="Can the Armory district card destroy a district in a completed city?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26958" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:18:11.950" Score="4" ViewCount="847" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are wondering if a killed or robbed character is immune to the Magician or not.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can the Magician force to swap district cards with a player who has been assassinated or robbed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastEditorUserId="5168" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T18:34:56.923" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T16:16:29.463" Title="Does a player become immune to the Magician when getting murdered or robbed?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26957" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-16T14:37:21.237" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; is a Japanese heavy cruiser. Ordinarily one cruiser can't be told apart from another during a &quot;search.&quot; (This is a reconnaissance mission by planes or ships that locates enemy ships for your bombers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the game rules conceded that ship &lt;em&gt;type&lt;/em&gt; identification was often erroneous. In the game, Japanese ship types are (aircraft) carriers, battleships and cruisers, while the Americans have only carriers and cruisers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What gives the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; its importance is that it is the flagship of the transports carrying the Midway invasion force. Within the parameters of the game, the fate of the transports (sunk or surviving) is &quot;represented&quot; by the fate of the &lt;em&gt;Atago.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the interests of a better simulation, the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; can be characterized as &quot;the cruiser surrounded by eight transports,&quot; or &quot;the flagship of the transport fleet.&quot; Should we give the Japanese a fourth ship type, transports, and use the word &quot;transports&quot; in reference to the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt;, even though the rules call her a &quot;cruiser?&quot; Are transports, in fact, sufficiently distinguishable from cruisers for this to work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T17:04:57.757" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T17:04:57.757" Title="Should the &quot;Atago&quot; be identified as such in Midway during &quot;search&quot;?" Tags="|midway|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26956" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:18:28.837" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Magician targets a player, not a role, so I don't see why the fact they were targeted by the Assassin/Witch would have any impact on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T15:18:28.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26955" CreationDate="2015-09-16T15:34:15.640" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Apparently Bruno Faidutti (the game designer) intended to allow this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Warlord has the following limitation (as found in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/f2/e7/f2e74a36-bed7-4a38-aff4-c2e968a1c369/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official Citadels rules&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not, however, destroy a district in a city that is already completed by having eight districts (or seven districts when the Bell Tower is in play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But apparently Faidutti intended for the Armory not to have this limitation.&#xA;As found on &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/348593/can-warlord-destroy-district-final-round-if-armory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;, the Warlord would even be able to destroy a district from a city that once was completed, but became &lt;em&gt;uncompleted&lt;/em&gt; because of the Armory:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nonetheless, here is how, according to Bruno Faidutti's ruling, a the final round may play out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume Ashley (a Magician) should build an eighth district first, triggering the end of game condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brad (the Bishop) pops his Armory to destroy Ashley's Cathedral (her only religious district). Even though she has seven districts, the game will still end when the round finishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Clara (using the Architect) builds twice, bringing her district count to nine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, David (acting as Warlord) wants to destroy a district (the gold is useless to him otherwise). David cannot destroy anything of Clara's, since her city is complete, and Brad is the Bishop, so he is safe. Ashley's is no longer complete, so David destroys another of Ashley's districts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is some ambiguity as to whether the game would still end after such a round (imagine that Clara in the previous example would not have completed her city) and as to which bonuses Ashley in the previous example would receive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T20:59:59.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26960" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26961" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:02:09.393" Score="1" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering I played a guy that was using a mono - red goblin deck which exploited &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394600&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Impact Tremors&lt;/a&gt; ability with a certain creature that &quot;blinks&quot; out of the game when another spell is cast now I cant for the life of me remember the name of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried the card database on Magic wizards and got no luck. All that I can remember was that it was mono - red goblin creature of some sort. that had something a long the lines of this in its effect text:&#xA;&quot;Whenever a spell is cast remove (said creature) from the game until end of turn then return it to the battlefield&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me out? I really want to obtain this card...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:23:16.227" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:23:16.227" Title="What is the name of this red creature card" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26960" CreationDate="2015-09-16T16:07:09.713" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card you are looking for is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=norin%20the%20wary&quot;&gt;Norin the Wary&lt;/a&gt;. I found this by searching on magiccards.info for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;c!r t:creature o:&quot;Exile ~&quot; o:return&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This searches for a mono-red (c!r) creature (t:creature) that has in its text &quot;Exile [this creature]&quot; and &quot;return [to the battlefield]&quot;. That resulted in only two cards, and only one triggered on casting a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T16:07:09.713" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26963" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27001" CreationDate="2015-09-16T20:22:40.820" Score="6" ViewCount="1136" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had a little debate with some friends about the feasibility of a certain type of play and wanted to get the communities opinion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is whether playing a King(Regent) on the first hand is a good play or not in terms of probability. The reason is that there is a risk of someone being completely out of that suite and having the 1 of Trumps, playing that, and thereby getting roughly 10 points on the first hand. The idea is that even though this is relatively rare, the impact of it is so great it is not worth playing a King in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume a 4-player game and you are on the defense, my argument is that the odds of the attacker being in this situation is the same (or slightly higher) than each of the other 2 defenders. However, since there are two defenders the overall odds of someone taking the 1 of trumps on the first hand are in favor of the defense. And the defense acquiring the 1 of trumps is just as important as the attacker acquiring it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One counter argument I was told was that even if the attacker does have at least one of that that suite, then you can just wait for them to play it and play your King then and still win that hand. I think there is some merit to this, but feel my argument above is stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13796" LastEditorUserId="3635" LastEditDate="2015-09-20T21:16:11.807" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T22:15:20.523" Title="French Tarot (card game): Feasibility of playing a King on the first hand" Tags="|playing-cards|probability|tarot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27878" CreationDate="2015-09-16T20:27:48.323" Score="6" ViewCount="312" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Cosmic Encounter (Eon edition), the Wrack's power is to offer a deal to the other player in an encounter, rather than fighting. If the opponent refuses, the Wrack &quot;tortures&quot; the opponent: for each token the Wrack has committed to the encounter, it may send one of its opponent's tokens or cards to the warp or discard pile, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear from the description on the power card itself, but the Wrack must follow through completely: the Super Flare allows the Wrack to stop the proposal/torture and go back to normal encounter resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That lack of clarity makes me question two other things about the power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can the Wrack offer a deal (intentionally or not) that the opponent is &lt;em&gt;incapable&lt;/em&gt; of accepting? A simple example would be &quot;give me the Attack 40 and I'll give you a Compromise&quot; where the opponent does not have the Attack 40. Further, if it's unknown whether the opponent can fulfill the deal, can they dodge the process by (truthfully) stating that they cannot fulfill it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Can the Wrack change the deal? This would seem to be essential for the process, given the iterative way it's described:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On each torture you put any one of his tokens into the warp, or one of his cards (drawn at random) into the discard pile. If at any time he accepts the deal, stop the torture...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponent can clearly do whatever math is necessary before the Wrack starts removing anything (though it's true that &lt;em&gt;which cards&lt;/em&gt; will be discarded is an unknown); combined with the fact that the Wrack can't stop without being Super, there's not much point in actually repeating the process as opposed to doing it all at once if the deal can't change on each step. However, the existence of the Super Flare makes me question that interpretation, because based on a straight reading of the power card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If he refuses it you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; torture him once for every token you have in the challenge. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine), it sounds like the Wrack is choosing &lt;em&gt;at each step&lt;/em&gt; to perform the torture, and I would have thought that the ability to stop was built in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13797" LastEditorUserId="13797" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T01:01:05.773" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T07:19:45.007" Title="Can the Wrack offer an impossible deal? Can the offer change?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26966" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:06:51.697" Score="7" ViewCount="1035" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an upcoming Legacy event near my residence, a friend of mine intends to play using an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHypergenesis%5d&quot;&gt;Hypergenesis&lt;/a&gt; deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, recently we have a certain abundance of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bContainment%20Priest%5d&quot;&gt;Containment Priest&lt;/a&gt;s in our region. This creature makes things with Hypergenesis a bit messy, since it can severely cripple its combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11711/hypergenesis-and-triggered-abilities&quot;&gt;I'm aware how Hypergenesis resolves&lt;/a&gt; triggered abilities. However, what is not clear to me is what happens in this scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A casts Hypergenesis using cascade/suspend/whatever. Player B doesn't counter or respond to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A puts an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAdmonition%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Admonition Angel&lt;/a&gt; on the table. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B puts an Containment Priest on the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A puts a random land on the table, lets say, a Mountain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B doesn't put anything on the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A puts a random creature that doesn't trigger anything, like, let's say, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither Player B or A puts anything else on the table, thus, Hypergenesis finishes resolving and is sent to the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what's the end result of the table, after Hypergenesis resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Containment Priest exile Progenitus?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the Landfall ability of Admonition Angel trigger?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does Containment Priest exile anything at all during Hypergenesis?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13798" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T18:23:22.603" Title="Hypergenesis vs Containment Priest - How does it resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26965" CreationDate="2015-09-16T21:23:46.747" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Containment Priest exiles just Progenitus. Admonition Angel's landfall ability triggers once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Containment Priest's ability is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_effects&quot;&gt;replacement effect&lt;/a&gt; (rule 614.1a says &quot;Effects that use the word 'instead' are replacement effects.&quot;). Rule 614.4 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Replacement effects must exist before the appropriate event occurs—they can’t “go back in time” and change something that’s already happened.&lt;/strong&gt; Spells or abilities that generate these effects are often cast or activated in response to whatever would produce the event and thus resolve before that event would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admonition Angel enters the battlefield before Containment Priest, so it is not exiled. But by the time Progenitus would enter, Containment Priest is already on the battlefield, so Progenitus is exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Admonition Angel's Landfall ability (like any Landfall ability) is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot;&gt;triggered ability&lt;/a&gt; because rule 603.1 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 603.6d says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions.&lt;/strong&gt; Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. [Several exceptions that don't apply here].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like with Containment Priest, immediately after the Mountain enters the battlefield, the Admonition Angel is already on the battlefield, so its ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-16T21:31:23.433" LastActivityDate="2015-09-16T21:31:23.433" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26974" CreationDate="2015-09-17T11:40:00.827" Score="2" ViewCount="1012" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Double Deck Pinochle, the game ends when at least one team scores 500 or above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the two teams scores are 510 and 520 after the hand is over. Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had read at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/marriage/pindd.html#idea&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat's Double Deck Pinochle&lt;/a&gt; page that &quot;If both sides reach 500 on the same hand, the bidding side wins.&quot; I interpreted this to mean that the bidding team was used as a tie-breaking decision. But later someone told me that this is always applied, even if the teams have different scores. I asked about this at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerpinochle.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=823&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Power Pinochle forum&lt;/a&gt;, and someone posted that this &quot;Bidder Out&quot; rule applies for single deck Pinochle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know the definitive answer for Double Deck Pinochle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T18:58:14.880" Title="Who wins when both teams score above 500 in Double Deck Pinochle?" Tags="|pinochle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26972" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:18:10.867" Score="8" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question has to do with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ravenous%20trap&quot;&gt;Ravenous trap&lt;/a&gt;.  Say my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thought%20Scour&quot;&gt;Thought Scour&lt;/a&gt; targeting themselves.  Once the spell resolves they have two cards + thought scour itself in the graveyard this turn.  I want to prevent them from casting a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tasigur%2C%20the%20Golden%20Fang&quot;&gt;Tasigur, the Golden Fang&lt;/a&gt;/&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gurmag%20Angler&quot;&gt;Gurmag Angler&lt;/a&gt;.  Could I cast Ravenous trap right after thought scour resolves before they get a chance to delve their graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13805" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T14:29:36.113" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T14:30:23.750" Title="Casting a spell after a spell resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26971" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26970" CreationDate="2015-09-17T14:28:47.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you would not be able to prevent the cast. Because it's your opponent's turn, any time a spell resolves, they are given the first opportunity to cast spells (this is called &quot;having priority&quot;). So as soon as Thought Scour resolves, the game &quot;asks&quot; if your opponent has anything to play. In your example, they play Tasigur/Gurmag Angler, and should they choose to delve to pay for the cost, those cards are exiled immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could still cast Ravenous Trap in response to the Delve card's casting (and the cost would still be reduced), but it would only affect the remaining cards in your opponent's graveyard, and would neither affect the delve nor your opponent's ability to cast the card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastEditorUserId="13124" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:36:43.867" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:36:43.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26970" CreationDate="2015-09-17T15:03:03.283" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to cast your Trap you must find a way to gain priority between the resolution of Thought Scour and the casting of Tasigur, as APNAP rules state your opponent gets priority (regardless of if the stack is empty or not).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Tasigur can only be cast at sorcery speed. So if you could get an ability to trigger off of Thought Scour, then your opponent would receive priority &lt;em&gt;with an ability on the stack&lt;/em&gt;. When he passes priority to you, you can cast your instant speed Trap**. The easiest way I can think of to cause a trigger would be off of the cantrip. Something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=338452&quot;&gt;Mind's Eye&lt;/a&gt; should do the trick, although I'm sure there are plenty of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're unable to trigger an ability on the stack off of Thought Scour, then your opponent will be able to delve his graveyard to cast Tasigur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** - Yes, I passed up the opportunity to say &quot;activate your trap card&quot;. Shame on me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2015-09-17T15:16:40.870" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T15:16:40.870" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26956" CreationDate="2015-09-17T16:16:29.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to bwarner's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not only are the players &lt;strong&gt;not immune&lt;/strong&gt;, but there's no way you could even make them immune based on the other rules of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The assassination target isn't revealed until the round is finished. Until then, you can't know for certain whether someone has been assassinated or not. For the magician to know this, the assassinated player would have to reveal early.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar with the thief. Unless the thief stole from the magician, the thief won't yet know if they've hit or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T16:16:29.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26969" CreationDate="2015-09-17T18:58:14.880" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many different sets of rules for Pinochle, most are the same but almost every household I've played at has something 'different'.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, my understanding of the winner (in what ever variation being played) was the one who won the bid will be the winner regardless of the scores if both are winning scores.  This is because it forces each bidder/team to make a serious attempt at the final bid.  The one who wins the bid is putting their money where their mouth is so to speak.  If I win the bid and just make the min score, and you only needed 1 point so you are much farther ahead, you could take it easy and assume a win and not bother trying to bid your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2015-09-17T18:58:14.880" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26976" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T23:11:41.633" Score="8" ViewCount="5640" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have just started playing and have the river expansion game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had hoped to try to take control over a city by placing a last wall piece and placing a meeple.  This was a U shaped piece and no tiles where in the interior city....just walls.  I was told I could not because it joined other walls of the city and was an end piece.  I'm confused as to how one would take over a city and gain all the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13815" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:07:54.327" Title="Carcassonne - taking control of a city" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26977" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-17T23:53:19.573" Score="1" ViewCount="895" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking of getting Rise of the Runelords or Skull and Shackles. From your experiences, which game would you consider better, and is there even any noticeable difference in between the two games? From what I have heard so far, the two games are pretty similar. Is that true, or are there differences in the two games that make one better than the other? What are the differences, if there are any, in between the two games? If I knew the differences maybe it would help me on deciding which game I would rather have. You can also give me your own opinion on the two games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12723" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T03:08:10.637" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T03:25:19.350" Title="What are the differences between Rise of the Runelords and Skull and Shackles?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26978" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-18T02:35:22.170" Score="3" ViewCount="5257" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building an edh deck for about 5 dollars and was wondering,&#xA;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sickening%20Dreams&quot;&gt;Sickening Dreams&lt;/a&gt; dealing more than enough damage to kill my opponent and I at the same time, who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13817" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T16:51:43.060" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:09:12.430" Title="Who wins when everyone takes lethal damage simultaneously?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26978" CreationDate="2015-09-18T02:38:52.997" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a draw. Whenever all remaining players lose at the same time, the game ends in a draw. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_mtgm11_rulebook_lr_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, under &quot;Winning the Game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If both players would lose the game at the same time, the&#xA;  game is a draw—nobody wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar information is repeated under the glossary for &quot;Life total&quot; and &quot;draw the game&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T14:41:01.797" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:41:01.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26977" CreationDate="2015-09-18T03:25:19.350" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Skull and Shackles has two main changes from Rise of the Runelords.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The boat mechanic.  This mechanic is completely new to S&amp;amp;S, but I don't think it adds to the game overall.  The rules for it are not intuitive.  Your party will have a boat in most adventures and have opportunity to fight other boats.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;General iterative rules development.  Despite what I said about the boat, S&amp;amp;S is a better game than RotR just due to them having another chance to write the rules and balance things.  Specific things I liked better&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More skills are useful in challenges&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Characters are better balanced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The rulebook is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; better organized&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As they went thru the RotR adventures they used certain templates on the cards. These are incorporated as basic rule terms in S&amp;amp;S. These leads to more clarity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, unless the pirate theme doesn't appeal to you I'd recommend skipping Rise of the Runelords and starting right in Skull and Shackles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You didn't ask, but this advice holds even if you consider the newer release Wrath of the Righteous.  WotR is &lt;em&gt;much&lt;/em&gt; harder and has a few more moving parts than either of the other two sets.  It's a fine second game to get, but if it is your first purchase in the Adventure game line it could lead to disappointment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T03:25:19.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26976" CreationDate="2015-09-18T08:42:05.220" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The order of actions in a turn is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place tile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place follower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine and score completed structures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your city is not completed until after you've had a chance to place a follower onto it. So in your example, you were right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T08:42:05.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26988" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:20:55.310" Score="1" ViewCount="196" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the Diplomat has the right to swap a district in completed city ?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Warlord cannot destroy a district in a completed city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:50:51.373" Title="Swapping district in completed city" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26983" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26994" CreationDate="2015-09-18T12:30:13.090" Score="2" ViewCount="877" Body="&lt;p&gt;In French rules, playing at 3 means having two characters at every rounds.&#xA;One character card goes face down then crown owner chooses a character and pass the rest to next player.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the crown owner takes &lt;code&gt;Assassin&lt;/code&gt;, he will assassinate without any risk because he can deduce two missing character cards.&#xA;I'm thinking a 100% hit ratio by &lt;code&gt;Assassin&lt;/code&gt; is nonsense, assassination is a risky task and thus should not be at 100%.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also, this can be extended this to the &lt;code&gt;Thief&lt;/code&gt; with a 100% hit rate if taken by crown owner (and if Assassin is face down).&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think about removing &lt;code&gt;Assassin&lt;/code&gt; &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;code&gt;Thief&lt;/code&gt; and inserting &lt;code&gt;Artist&lt;/code&gt; to make a more balanced 3 players game ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T15:09:17.850" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T09:26:58.507" Title="Removing Assassin in 3 players game" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-01-09T23:00:49.403" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26976" CreationDate="2015-09-18T13:16:43.263" Score="22" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Basic Rules:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On your turn you place a tile.  After placing the tile you can place your meeple onto any uncontrolled feature on that tile.  After placing meeples, all completed features are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Assuming that you are trying to gain some control of a controlled city&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume the situation is this:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUBXJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vUBXJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation that you have presented you have placed your tile to close a city.  Once that tile is placed, looking at the board, it is already controlled by another meeple, therefore you cannot place a meeple there.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udpP2.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/udpP2.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To take some control of a city requires two moves.  The first is to place a tile that is not connected to the city that you want to control, separated by a single tile space from the city and place a meeple on that city.  On a later turn, play a tile that connects the main city to the small city you created on the previous tile.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpNBB.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gpNBB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would give blue and red equal control, splitting the points. To take complete control would require you to perform this step again.  (Or a big meeple from Inns and Cathedrals)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Assuming that the feature is uncontrolled.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the tile.  The city is uncontrolled, so place a meeple.  Score the completed city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AGFz5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastEditorUserId="7843" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T14:07:54.327" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:07:54.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26983" CreationDate="2015-09-18T13:20:42.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this would actually be less balanced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assassin&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;From the perspective of the choosing player, the main strength of the Assassin is rarely the actual assassination. The Assassin's main strength is actually that since he plays first, he is able to avoid attacks by the Thief and Magician. (Occassionally the Assassin's player will benefit directly by eliminating the Magician or Warlord)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who generally benefits most from an assassination is the non-involved player, since (unless he took Warlord) is the only one who can take two actions towards city improvement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thief&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;The thief in a 3-player game still has a lot of things that can go wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He could be killed by the Assassin prior to being able to steal. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If one opponent has coins and the other does not, he has a 50% chance to choose the wrong player and get no money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If he only sees roles late in the rotation, (ex: Merchant and Architect), there is a good chance the target will also have an earlier role and have spent the money already.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Probable Effects of Removing Assassin and Thief&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;This would be extremely unbalanced.  Can you imagine a game where the Magician goes first every round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T13:20:42.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26978" CreationDate="2015-09-18T13:56:45.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is a draw. MTG's rules are not designed to try to prevent draws. This is perhaps most evidenced by the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Intervention&quot;&gt;Divine Intervention&lt;/a&gt; which can specifically cause the game to end in a draw.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13821" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-09-18T20:09:12.430" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:09:12.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26982" CreationDate="2015-09-18T14:50:51.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is answered in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/f2/e7/f2e74a36-bed7-4a38-aff4-c2e968a1c369/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; in the description of the Diplomat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may not exchange the Keep district, any &#xA;districts in the Bishop’s city, &lt;em&gt;or any districts in a &#xA;completed city&lt;/em&gt; of eight districts (seven with the &#xA;Bell Tower in play). &#xA;Note: If you are using the &#xA;Diplomat in your game, you must remove the &#xA;Cemetery from the deck since both cannot be &#xA;used together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is verified in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Citadels/support/citadels-faq.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Can the Diplomat exchange one of his districts for &#xA;a district from a completed city of eight districts?&#xA;A: No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T14:50:51.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20476" CreationDate="2015-09-18T20:03:30.103" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems all evil has to do is: all the evil players conspire who they think Merlin is (it can be a random guess), and they each pretend to be Merlin and out the other spies and declare the real Merlin as also a spy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are right in their random Merlin guess, the other players gain no new information, and Merlin appears indistinguishable from other players. Play continues as normal, with the spies knowing they were right about their Merlin guess, so the assassin will win the game for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, as is more likely, they are wrong, the spies are easily outed, the missions are brief and obvious, and the assassin has already eliminated one possible target for Merlin, and has a slightly better chance in picking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Point is, still far from a guaranteed &quot;good&quot; win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13823" LastActivityDate="2015-09-18T20:03:30.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26990" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26991" CreationDate="2015-09-18T22:11:20.850" Score="6" ViewCount="8370" Body="&lt;p&gt;The part of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Void%20Winnower&quot;&gt;Void Winnower&lt;/a&gt;'s text that is relevant is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponents can't cast spells with even converted mana costs. (Zero is even)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that when checking the converted mana cost of a card with {X} in the cost, the X is considered to be 0 unless the card is a spell on the stack. So &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Black Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; normally has a converted mana cost of 2. Does this mean that Void Winnower completely prevents me from casting Black Sun's Zenith, or that I can cast it if I choose an odd X?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T15:32:41.157" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T15:33:57.330" Title="Does Void Winnower prevent my opponent from casting X spells with even base converted mana cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26991" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26990" CreationDate="2015-09-18T22:12:32.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Void Winnower does not prevent you from casting a spell with {X} in the cost as long as you choose an X that results in the CMC of the spell being odd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_cost_and_color#Mana_cost_and_color&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 202.3b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with an {X} in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the steps for casting a spell&lt;/a&gt; contain the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2a&lt;/strong&gt; To propose the casting of a spell, a player first moves that card (or that copy of a card) from where it is to the stack. [...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2b&lt;/strong&gt; [...] If the spell has a variable cost that will be paid as it’s being cast (such as an {X} in its mana cost; see rule 107.3), the player announces the value of that variable. [...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2e&lt;/strong&gt; Based on the previous announcements, the game checks to see if the proposed spell can legally be cast based on applicable timing rules (including ones based on the card’s type) and other effects that may allow a spell to be cast or prohibit a spell from being cast. If the proposed spell is illegal, the game returns to the moment before the casting of that spell was proposed (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you put the spell on the stack, then you choose X. At this point, the {X} in the cost is equal to the chosen X because of 107.3a. So, when you check whether the spell is legal in the later step, the CMC depends on X, so Void Winnower only prevents it from being cast if the total CMC including X is even.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Void Winnower's Gatherer page now has a ruling that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For spells with {X} in their mana costs, use the value chosen for X to determine if the spell’s converted mana cost is even or not. For example, your opponent could cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20One&quot;&gt;Endless One&lt;/a&gt; (with mana cost {X}) with X equal to 5, but not with X equal to 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T15:33:57.330" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T15:33:57.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10930" CreationDate="2015-09-19T01:47:18.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few handicap ideas I use:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Material Advantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time Advantage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swapping colors midway through the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Material Advantage:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the difference in skill of the two players. For beginners playing against moderately good players, you can take off whole pieces such as Queens, or Knights (since Knights are notoriously good against beginners due to the strange L-shape pattern). Rooks and bishops are more straight forward, and could be used as deficits when the beginner has a better idea of how to play. I don't like the idea of large material deficits because it allows the beginner to think they can play more recklessly when the handicap is taken away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more advanced players, pawn deficits are often a good way to create balance. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peter_Svidler&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Peter Svidler&lt;/a&gt; says in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8jfV9RQrE9Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;video&lt;/a&gt; that against a lowish 2000 rated player a f-pawn deficit proved to be one of the hardest and most fair games he has ever played. The f-pawn is the biggest pawn-weakness to make because it doesn't give any development advantages where any other pawn would. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hikaru_Nakamura&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hikaru Nakamura&lt;/a&gt; has had various pawn advantage handicaps against the chess engine Stockfish. With a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1772573&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;b-pawn deficit&lt;/a&gt;, Stockfish won but with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1772572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;h-pawn deficit&lt;/a&gt;, the game ended in a draw. I like these ideas because it immediately sets the player up to have a significantly weaker endgame if they choose to trade down. It also reduces their middlegame since they cannot create tension as easily, leaving the lesser skilled player with more control over the flow of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with material deficits, is that it does not scale very well. It is useful for absolute beginners but at higher levels, a one-pawn advantage requires the difference in player skills to be enormous. However, it does mean that opening theory is often disregarded, which is a learning-benefit since the players won't be able to rely on memorized moves and actually play the game to the best of their ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Time Advantage:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This requires the use of a clock, but is a fairly good way to create balance between players. The idea is to reduce the amount of time the better player has to think, which in turn leads them to have to play more intuitively rather than being able to calculate variations. This means that tactical blunders by the worse player are less likely to be noticed, and blunders by the better player become more likely. The difference in skill, will influence the recommended time controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend 1 minute, because it is simply too fast to have to play for the better player (and will most likely lead to losing on time for most games). If there is a large skill gap, 2 minutes to 10 minutes can be fair, and reduce this gap as the less skilled player progresses. A good equilibrium can be figured out by playing a few games against the worse player to find where a sweet spot is. The better player will still have the advantage overall, but it is greatly reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will find that children don't use their time very effectively, if at all. When I was playing in juniors, if you gave players 10 minute time controls, they will have finished the game in under 5 minutes most of the time. It is important to emphasize that they think about their moves before playing them. This however can lead to the mindset that they should just wait 10 seconds before playing without actually thinking about any other possibilities. It can be difficult for them since their attention span is shorter than that of adults, but it is a useful skill in general to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Color Swap:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While not great for a friendly game, it is a good learning resource for lesser skilled players. The game plays normally until the better player creates an advantage (the size of this advantage can depend on the difference in skill level) and then the players can swap colors to allow the less skilled player to figure out how to win. This teaches them how to win a won position, and if they can beat the more skilled opponent in a won position, their chances in winning against an equally skilled opponent will increase. Obvious drawback is that it doesn't teach the player how to obtain the won position, but that is generally pretty hard against a better player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Extra Idea - Letting them win:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My personal favorite when playing against weaker opponents is to deliberately give them tactical opportunities which they can take advantage of. Not a true handicap, since I'm not forced to abide by this rule but it works well. I don't like to leave pieces en prise but wherever I can give them a fork, discovered attack, skewer, mating net, etc I try to allow it. If I deem that the tactic is too difficult for them to see, I will let them know that I have made a mistake for them to learn from. Against newer players, you might want to tell them every time you make a mistake, but as they improve you can talk less and see if they can figure it out on their own. As they improve, you can start to play more towards your normal skill level, and make fewer deliberate mistakes than you did before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--- Edit ---&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;How the World Champion First Learned:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Magnus Carlsen's dad was teaching him chess (at around age 6 before he started playing seriously), he would take away all his own pieces, so it would be 8 pawns+King vs Magnus' entire army. Even with this major disadvantage Magnus was unable to win. This is sourced from his Biography &lt;a href=&quot;https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/9056911317&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wonderboy&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11884" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T08:44:00.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26997" CreationDate="2015-09-19T08:51:22.743" Score="5" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eldritch tokens are often used for differing purposes and different mythos cards and effects.  Can they or should they be used generically across all active effects?  Here is an example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cthulhu ancient one spawn Eldritch tokens on any sea space occupied by an investigator when a reckoning effect occurs and the ensuing effect is investigators traveling through these spaces get delayed (stopped in their tracks).  One of the mysteries for this ancient one places Eldritch tokens on each sea space nearest each investigator and allows them to test against it and spend clues toward solving the mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this then mean &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; Eldritch token, whether it was placed by the Cthulhu reckoning effect or this mystery now delays investigators, and every Eldritch token is a candidate for being tested against to progress through the mystery, or do we have to have some way to keep track of which tokens were placed by which mystery/effect?  I can see either approach as being easier or harder in both cases, so using the &quot;harder on investigators&quot; reasoning doesn't work.  The sensible storyline approach argues that the tokens should be unique to the mystery/effect that created them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lean toward the sensible story approach but it is rather fantastic to consider that so much is going on in this wild flurry of activity that maybe it is worth simply saying an Eldritch token is simply indistinguishable from any other token once it's placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update: The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reference guide&lt;/a&gt; indicates that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the active Mystery is solved or removed from play, discard all tokens on it or placed by it. Then draw a new Mystery, placing it on top of any solved Mysteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so at least there is some maintenance of the eldritch tokens (pulling them off) as these get solved.  I do not know if mythos cards result in eldritch tokens being placed in locations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T17:39:00.683" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T15:13:52.763" Title="Should Eldritch Tokens only be used as tokens for the original reason they were placed?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26983" CreationDate="2015-09-19T13:45:56.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are adding the 9th role, there is a different solution for the same problem. When we play a 3 player game, the roles are distributed as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 puts one card face down (1), and picks one (2).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 picks a card (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 3 picks a card (4) and puts one face down (5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 picks a card (6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 picks a card (7) and puts one face down (8)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 3 picks up the first face-down card (1) and chooses from this card and the last (9). The remaining card goes face down.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This method of picking up the first face-down card is based on the 8 player rule from the Dark City expansion. With this, there is no 100% knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively&lt;/strong&gt;, if you don't have the 9th role, you could let the first player choose which card to place face down, but it has to be either the thief or the assassin. This doesn't solve the problem, but takes some weight off the circulating 100% knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T09:01:27.550" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T09:01:27.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26995" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-19T15:34:04.353" Score="1" ViewCount="30288" Body="&lt;p&gt;The case seems a bit complicated. The Queen is the only piece remaining on the board. All Men are pocketed. Both the Queen and the striker got pocketed in the same pot. What should happen then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should the player return a Man? If he returns one, should he immediately take a turn and strike the returned Man to try to cover the Queen? Or should he return the Queen anyway?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13828" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T14:56:08.587" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T03:37:57.190" Title="What happens if the Queen and the striker are pocketed together and there are no other pieces on the board?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22795" CreationDate="2015-09-19T16:58:56.000" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=vigor&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vigor&lt;/a&gt;, is a good 6 drop that will give you what you need for the krenko.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13829" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-09-19T22:06:48.050" LastActivityDate="2015-09-19T22:06:48.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26993" CreationDate="2015-09-19T19:32:56.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, you use a straight forward reading of the rules/instructions in EH. In this case they indicate that the tokens are interchangable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mystery you refer to also clearly states that any Eldritch tokens remaining on the board when the mystery is solved should stay on the board. This rather strongly indicates that (in this case at least) it is intended that all Eldritch tokens can be used to resolve the mystery &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; that you must abide by the travel restrictions on all the (new) tokens that the Cthulhu AO has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I'm sure that if the intent were other, they would have included alternative tokens. This also hasn't been mentioned in any errata document from the publisher. So, I'd go with the instructions as written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, this correspondence was received from FFG in answer to the question, which seals the ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Eldritch token is just an Eldritch token. If placed on the board or a card, it has no inherent effect. They act or affect the game as instructed by any effects that reference them. Players are not expected to remember where any given Eldritch token came from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Eldritch token placed by a Mystery is exactly the same as an Eldritch token placed by Cthulhu’s reckoning effect. In such a case, Eldritch tokens on the board represent odd happenings or areas under the influence of Cthulhu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T15:13:52.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="26999" CreationDate="2015-09-19T20:03:53.070" Score="7" ViewCount="6340" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Void%20Winnower&quot;&gt;Void Winnower&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponents can't cast spells with even converted mana costs. (Zero is even)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponents can't block with creatures with even converted mana costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I control a Void Winnower, does it prevent my opponent from casting Morph and Megamorph cards as face down spells? Does it prevent face down creatures from blocking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-24T17:04:25.883" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T17:04:25.883" Title="How does Void Winnower affect face down spells and creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-face-down-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="26999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26998" CreationDate="2015-09-19T20:03:53.070" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Void Winnower does prevent your opponent from casting face down spells and blocking with face down creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important rule here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_cost_and_color#Mana_cost_and_color&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;202.3a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The converted mana cost of an object with no mana cost is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description of Morph is in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Morph&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 702.36a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Morph is a static ability that functions in any zone from which you could play the card it’s on, and the morph effect works any time the card is face down. “Morph [cost]” means “You may cast this card as a 2/2 face-down creature with no text, no name, no subtypes, and &lt;strong&gt;no mana cost&lt;/strong&gt; by paying {3} rather than paying its mana cost.” (See rule 707, “Face-Down Spells and Permanents.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the spell has no mana cost, you cannot cast it for its mana cost, so you need an alternative mana cost to cast it [CR 117.6a]. In this case, the rule allows you to cast it for an alternative mana cost of {3}, but that does not change the actual mana cost of the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the description of Manifest in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Manifest&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;701.31a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To manifest a card, turn it face down. It becomes a 2/2 face-down creature card with no text, no name, no subtypes, and &lt;strong&gt;no mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;. Put that card onto the battlefield face down. That permanent is a manifested permanent as long as it remains face down. The effect defining its characteristics works while the card is face down and ends when it’s turned face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Face-down_spells_and_permanents&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 707.2a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a face-up permanent is turned face down by a spell or ability, it becomes a 2/2 face-down creature with no text, no name, no subtypes, and &lt;strong&gt;no mana cost&lt;/strong&gt;. A permanent that enters the battlefield face down that wasn’t cast as a face-down spell also has these characteristics. These values are the copiable values of that object’s characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting these together, we can see that face down morph spells, and any creature that is face down for any reason has no mana cost, so Void Winnower prevents your opponent from casting face down spells and blocking with face down creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Void Winnower's Gatherer page now has a ruling that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The converted mana cost of a face-down creature spell or a face-down creature is 0. Void Winnower will stop face-down creature spells from being cast and face-down creatures from blocking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T15:35:29.180" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T15:35:29.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26963" CreationDate="2015-09-20T13:14:44.780" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tarot is not poker. It is not a matter of probability and psychology, wishing that your opponent will bend over you. It is matter of card strength and strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not play randomly your King (and its 4.5 points!) if you do not know if your opponent have cards of the same suit or not. It is far too risky for such a card. It is like playing the 1 of trumps randomly, wishing that your opponent will not have the trump card to take it. Play your King only if you are sure that your opponent will not take it. Kings have got too much points to be played randomly, because statistics say that it will likely win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only risk you can take is the following: Attackers often perform &quot;&lt;em&gt;coupes franches&lt;/em&gt;&quot; (I do not know the English name) on one suit only. If this suit is revealed and if your King does not belong to this suit, the attacker will likely not be able to double it and will not take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you love statistics, Wikipedia has got tables for this : &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_tarot#Strategy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_tarot#Strategy&lt;/a&gt; But just like I said before, tarot is not poker and statistics does not matter in this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3635" LastActivityDate="2015-09-20T13:14:44.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27003" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-20T17:13:13.933" Score="1" ViewCount="129" Body="&lt;p&gt;During my last game of Fortune and Glory, I played the event card Blizzard on another player (do d6 Wounds if the player/villain is in an Ice space). I rolled 6 damage, and he was playing Shelly Hargrove, who can take a maximum of 4 Wounds. He prevented 2 Wounds between his Defense and another item, but then he used the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrogwiki.com/ffpwiki/index.php?title=Ability:Spunky&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spunky&lt;/a&gt; ability to &quot;heal&quot; two Wounds, thus avoiding being KO'd. Here's what the Spunky ability says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;May pay 2 Glory at any time to Heal a Wound (except during a Fight Round). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use abilities that heal you to prevent Wounds that would KO you, or does being KO'd prevent healing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T09:57:19.800" Title="Can you heal at the moment you get KO'd?" Tags="|fortune-and-glory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27003" CreationDate="2015-09-21T09:57:19.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/fortuneandglory/pdf%5CFANG_Rulebook_FINAL_WEB.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Rulebook&quot;&gt;the rulebook.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 key phrases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;May pay 2 Glory &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;at any time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to Heal a Wound (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;except during a Fight Round&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets assess 2 possibilities - &lt;strong&gt;Fighting&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Everything Else&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fighting&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are KO'd in a fight then it is clearly a no as this ability doesn't work during a fight round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;NOTE:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes a card will say that it&#xA;  cannot be used ‘during a Fight Round’. Cards like this may&#xA;  however, still be used &lt;em&gt;between&lt;/em&gt; Fight Rounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you survive with at least one wound you can use this in between Fight Rounds as the round ends before another begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Everything Else:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the ability may be used at &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;any time&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; then you can use it while taking damage to prevent KO*. In your example an event occurred, not a fight so this ability can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Nothing it the rulebook explicitly says a KO prevents this ability so I would interpret it this way.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T09:57:19.800" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-21T17:57:04.613" Score="3" ViewCount="9984" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you are playing 4 person spades, and somone bids nil and they get a book/trick what is the penalty? Does it count as a sandbag, or do they just lose the points from failing nil? Does that book count towards the partners bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now in three man spades if someone bids nil and gets a book do they get a sandbag or just lose the points? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13846" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T20:04:09.263" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T09:32:38.543" Title="How do you score failed nil bids?" Tags="|spades|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27006" CreationDate="2015-09-21T21:14:27.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that there isn't exactly a single set of &quot;official rules&quot; for Spades, I would say that there two valid answers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Tricks collected by a set (failed) NIL bid count as tricks for the partner, at which point all normal rules apply as far as sandbags, making the bid, etc. The team loses -100 (or -200 if it was a double/blind Nil) for the set nil, but scores the partner's bid normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Tricks collected by a set Nil bid are void and count for nothing. The partner must make their bid completely independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players should agree on the rules ahead of play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've always played per #1 and would prefer that greatly. First, it makes losing the nil not quite as painful, since you can help your partner out. Second, it means that while you can take extra tricks to try to set your opponent's bid, you will risk taking sandbags for it, whereas with option 2, you could take those extra tricks with no further penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1837" LastActivityDate="2015-09-21T21:14:27.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27009" CreationDate="2015-09-21T23:28:01.010" Score="0" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm unclear as to when pieces are captured vs. when they're moved to the repository in Basic Gipf&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand it correctly, the 4+ in a row pieces are moved to the repository of the player with their color. Any pieces that extend this line are dealt with as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if they're the same color as the current player, they're moved back to the repository&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if they're the other player's color, they're captured.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6845" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-09-21T23:34:28.157" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T00:45:33.443" Title="How does capturing work in gipf?" Tags="|gipf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27008" CreationDate="2015-09-22T00:45:33.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is mostly correct. However, the player who picks up the pieces is not the current player, but the player who owns the 4+ pieces in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;E. Taking Pieces&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As soon as 4 pieces of the same color are lined up next to each other, they must be taken from the board by the one playing with that color. Moreover, not only must these 4 pieces be removed, but also all of the pieces that form a direct extension of them. The pieces of one's own color are returned to the reserve, the pieces of the other color are captured, thus lost for the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As soon as 4 pieces of the same color are lined up, it is compulsory to remove them from the board (included the pieces extending the row), no matter who created the row. The color of the pieces in a row determines which player must take them. One's own pieces are returned to the reserve, the opponent's pieces are captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A copy of the rules can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gipf.com/gipf/rules/complete_rules.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12628" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T00:45:33.443" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27074" CreationDate="2015-09-22T03:56:19.633" Score="8" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my recent study of card counting systems, I've run into a few systems that are &quot;Suit Aware.&quot; A couple of examples include the KISS 2 and KISS 3 methods. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, in the KISS 2 system, the values assigned to each card are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;A,7,8,9 = 0&#xA;2 = 0/+1&#xA;3,4,5,6 = +1&#xA;T = -1&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the color of the suit, the 2s are counted differently. You would add +1 for a red suit (Hearts or Diamonds) but would not add anything if the 2 was a black suit (Spades or Clubs). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find nor think of any reason this is efficient in Blackjack card counting since the suit of the card has no meaning in a traditional Blackjack game. Does this perhaps have something to do with possible side bets a casino might do in a Blackjack game to match a suit to the dealer's shown card? Any explanation as to why you would want to use a Suit Aware card counting system is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13851" LastEditorUserId="13851" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T13:38:35.760" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T01:51:33.360" Title="Blackjack: Why use a Suit Aware card counting system?" Tags="|blackjack|card-counting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27016" CreationDate="2015-09-22T06:27:51.470" Score="0" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to develop a card game, in which I have a situation like I need to present cards against each other in such a way so that they have never played with each other. So in general, I will have two different stack of cards, and they will be presented with each other. So it could be like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; A  B  C  D &#xA; H  U  O  P&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any one of the card will be swiped away from infront of any letter, say user remove H from infront of A, the U will be presented to A, then U swiped away O will be presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In above scenario H, U, and O have played with A, so in future they should never play with A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How to implement this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any light, anything that can help me, would be highly appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For more clarification, see image below&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSWxK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSWxK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13852" LastEditorUserId="13852" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T16:35:32.430" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T17:53:28.643" Title="Implement unique occurrence against each other" Tags="|game-development|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-09-22T21:06:14.007" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27014" CreationDate="2015-09-22T14:54:01.927" Score="17" ViewCount="67018" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Exploding Kittens&lt;/strong&gt; game, the rules say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You won't ever run out of cards in the Draw Pile, so there is never any need for a reshuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In every game I've played all the cards end up on the discard pile fairly quickly and there is nothing left in the draw pile, so we have to reuse them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this meant to happen? Are we doing something wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13860" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-09-23T02:56:17.303" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T22:01:31.183" Title="Running out of cards in Exploding Kittens" Tags="|exploding-kittens|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27013" CreationDate="2015-09-22T15:07:06.903" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are missing a critical step.  Every time an Exploding Kitten is drawn it needs to go back into the deck if it is defused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explodingkittens.com/how&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Defuse&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you drew an Exploding Kitten, you can play this card instead of dying. Place your Defuse card in the Discard Pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then take the Exploding Kitten, and without reordering or viewing the other cards, secretly put it back in the Draw Pile anywhere you’d like. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you do that, and you had the correct number of exploding kittens in your starting deck (1 less than the number of players) the deck will never run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T15:07:06.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27013" CreationDate="2015-09-22T15:08:12.417" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are likely misunderstanding a rule or two. However without more information I can only guess what that rule might be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You start the game with N-1 exploding kitten cards in the deck (where N is the number of players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exploding kitten cards never get put in your hand. When you draw one if have a defuse you get to &lt;strong&gt;put back in the deck&lt;/strong&gt;. If not you blow up and are out of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no way for you to go through the whole deck without all but one person exploding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastEditorUserId="5026" LastEditDate="2015-09-22T15:32:46.560" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T15:32:46.560" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27012" CreationDate="2015-09-22T17:53:28.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think there are a few options for this, depending on the permanency of the effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Marker cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Track the opposing cards that your card has faced on an object (e.g. Another card with the same title but instead of game text or an image it just has a list of the other cards and checkboxes, or just a section of each card that you mark).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tracking sheet&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you use a separate object for tracking, like a score sheet or even just a piece of paper, it would be easy to track the cards you have played and the cards they have played against. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are still two major problems here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the effect is permanent, you're eventually going to be unable to play a given card against any other card, placing a fixed lifespan on a copy of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're attempting to track a many-to-many relationship between cards, so depending on the size of your set this could be an extremely difficult task without some sort of spreadsheet or app or database to help.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2015-09-22T17:53:28.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25243" CreationDate="2015-09-23T06:51:35.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Scrabble word lists are very well defined. Currently tournaments that follow the rules of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wespa.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World English Language Scrabble Players Association&lt;/a&gt; use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.collinsdictionary.com/words-and-language/blog/discover-the-new-scrabble-words,210,HCB.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Collins Word List 2015&lt;/a&gt; In this dictionary there are a total of 277663 words. Broken down as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2 letter 124&#xA;3 letter 1341&#xA;4 letter 5625&#xA;5 letter 12917&#xA;6 letter 22938&#xA;7 letter 34171&#xA;8 letter 41883&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dictionary only defines words upto 15 letters in length since that's the width of the scrabble board. However in practice words longer than 8 letters are played extremely rarely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13873" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T06:51:35.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14808" CreationDate="2015-09-23T07:04:25.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another interesting thing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wespa.org/aardvark/cgi-bin/stats.cgi?name1=Nigel%20Richards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nigel Richards&lt;/a&gt; perhaps the best Scrabble ever, has at the time or writing played 2549 internationally rated games. He has scored more than 300 in all but 10 of them. It's more than likely that in those 10 games he had sequences of incredibly bad racks. His average per game is 461.37 and average against him is 390.26 which makes up approximately 852 points per game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do more mortal players stack up? The current #8 rated &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wespa.org/aardvark/cgi-bin/stats.cgi?name1=David%20Eldar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;David Eldar&lt;/a&gt; manages 442.95 per game and against him it's 401.08 he has gone past 300 , 98.7% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;300 is a good benchmark. In my country the national scrabble league only allows players with an average score of more than 300 to take part in certain tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13873" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T07:04:25.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10930" CreationDate="2015-09-23T13:27:52.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try something new.  A new opening, or relying overmuch on an unusual piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works best when the junior opponent knows how to play and is getting the hang of your usual opening, but you are still better.  Try something wild and new, it might be a disaster, it might actually work, either way you might both learn something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS - Especially fun in bughouse chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13875" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T13:27:52.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19071" CreationDate="2015-09-23T13:48:24.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My impression is that the lack of factory construction and AA guns is a astrisk on the real change of the game, that there are half as many units and a third as much income.  This reduction in units and money makes the game far more luck based than previous editions.  You both have fewer die rolls leading to more deviation from your expected value, and you have very limited ability to replace loses.  The game can easily be decided on the first round due to very good or bad rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not saying that the game is not fun, we love it!  But the out-sized effect of the die roll overshadows the lack of factory and AA (which you'll never have the spare cash to build anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13875" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T13:48:24.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24753" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:01:55.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may only mobilize units in a territory you (not your ally) have owned since the start of the turn.  Additionally, you liberate allied territories when you capture them, immediately returning ownership to the original owner*. Thus the USSR cannot mobilize in India, since it is owned by the UK, not the USSR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* - Details, it is technically possible to create a situation where the USSR could mobilize in India. It would require that the Axis captures both the UK capital, and India, then the USSR recapture India (a territory is not liberated if the owner's capital is in enemy hands), then on the following turn (after a full turn of ownership) the USSR may mobilize in India.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13875" LastEditorUserId="13875" LastEditDate="2016-09-02T19:28:34.617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T19:28:34.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24726" CreationDate="2015-09-23T14:07:58.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, aircraft units can be hit by both infantry units and tank units.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that a unit is not a single individual; this is not a single infantryman or a single tank.  Think of a unit as a division (or corp) with all the attached artillery, half-tracks, jeeps, headquarters tents, mechanics, engineers, and light anti-aircraft weaponry required to support ~10,000 men. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13875" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T14:07:58.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27026" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-23T23:15:26.663" Score="0" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does phasing allow for a Tribute to trigger twice, since the creature continues to re-enter the battle field?&#xA;For example, if I enchant my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nessian%20Wilds%20Ravager&quot;&gt;Nessian Wilds Ravager&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vanishing&quot;&gt;Vanishing&lt;/a&gt;, does this mean that my Ravager will get to fight a second creature when he phases in (or gain an additional +6/+6)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13882" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T17:45:03.653" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:47:27.833" Title="Phasing vs Tribute" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7510" CreationDate="2015-09-23T23:20:05.367" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once you master the game, wonders are used a lot more, and the Rationalism and Pacifism social policies are necessary for a tech victory (sans Russia).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13883" LastActivityDate="2015-09-23T23:20:05.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27026" CreationDate="2015-09-23T23:43:04.130" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, phasing won't cause Tribute or any other enters-the-battlefield abilities to trigger. A phased-out creature is treated as if it weren't on the battlefield for most effects, but phasing back in doesn't count as re-entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.25d&lt;/strong&gt; The phasing event doesn’t actually cause a permanent to change zones or control, even though it’s treated as though it’s not on the battlefield and not under its controller’s control while it’s phased out. Zone-change triggers don’t trigger when a permanent phases in or out. Counters remain on a permanent while it’s phased out. Effects that check a phased-in permanent’s history won’t treat the phasing event as having caused the permanent to leave or enter the battlefield or its controller’s control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T17:47:27.833" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:47:27.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27034" CreationDate="2015-09-24T06:45:47.283" Score="6" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm copying my opponent's non-transformed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%2C%20Heretical%20Healer&quot;&gt;Liliana, Heretical Healer&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clever%20Impersonator&quot;&gt;Clever Impersonator&lt;/a&gt;. Then one of my other creatures dies. Does my Clever Impersonator come back as Liliana non-transformed again or does it come back as Clever Impersonator with a possible new choice? If it comes back as Liliana do I get a zombie? It says &amp;quot;If you do, put a 2/2...&amp;quot; is it saying if I do return her, or if I do return her transformed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13887" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T06:50:14.820" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T18:48:14.270" Title="Clever Impersonator copying Liliana Heretical Healer" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27033" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27041" CreationDate="2015-09-24T06:51:20.493" Score="4" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Test Run&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Search your stack or heap for a program. Install that program,&#xA;  ignoring all costs. Shuffle your stack if you searched it. When this&#xA;  turn ends, add the program to the top of your stack if it is still&#xA;  installed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/09034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Harbinger&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Harbinger is trashed, install it facedown instead of adding it to your heap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I use Test Run to bring a Harbinger out of my Heap, then trash Harbinger so that it becomes installed face down. Does Test Run put it on my deck at the end of my turn, or does it stay installed face down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Roioi.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Roioi.png&quot; alt=&quot;Test Run&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fk587.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fk587.png&quot; alt=&quot;Harbinger&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T03:04:35.587" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T04:44:29.363" Title="Is a runner card turned facedown still itself?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27032" CreationDate="2015-09-24T07:07:59.173" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will get the 2/2 Zombie token and a fresh &lt;em&gt;Clever Impersonator&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The copied Liliana's ability triggers on the other creature's death, the copied Liliana gets exiled and returns to the battlefield. However, the Impersonator only copied the front side of Liliana, the Impersonator itself can not and will not be transformed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.25a Only permanents represented by double-faced cards can transform. (See rule 711, “Double-Faced Cards.”) If a spell or ability instructs a player to transform any permanent that isn’t represented by a double-faced card, nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the &quot;If you do...&quot; part of Liliana's ability is sufficiently satisfied as long as the card is exiled due to the effect, so a 2/2 zombie will be created. (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/125330140254/re-the-dfc-walkers-and-copy-effects-how-does&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon leaving the battlefield, the Impersonator also forgot all memory of its previous existence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exceptions don't apply here. You exile the Liliana, but return the Impersonator. Therefore, after the exile it enters the battlefield as a fresh Impersonator, ready to copy another permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T18:48:14.270" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T18:48:14.270" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-24T19:54:32.630" Score="13" ViewCount="567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, if a game is already out of time, and we're within the resolution of a stack, yet the resolution will take an obnoxiously long time, what would the ruling be in a competitive environment where the tournament will have to wait for the resolution? Note that this isn't an infinite effect and thus not a draw, it's not unsportslike conduct - stalling because the game is already at time and that rule is for trying to drag a game to time, and I can pick any number of twins I want, it's my right to use that shortcut to pick an arbitrary number. Don't necessarily focus on deconstructing the example (but feedback on that is welcome), help me out on what the resolution would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I'm going off with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Modern_Splinter_Twin_deck&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin combo&lt;/a&gt;. I have at least 1 land and a bunch of other permanents. I create a very, very large number of tokens (let's say 10^1000).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aether%20Vial&quot;&gt;Aether Vial&lt;/a&gt; to vial in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tyrant%20of%20Discord&quot;&gt;Tyrant of Discord&lt;/a&gt;. The resolution of the Tyrant's &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; trigger will take an extremely long amount of time to compute. Consider that we'll be randomly picking copies until a land gets sacrificed, which could mean &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; my creatures get sacrificed one by one, or possibly none of them do (the land gets randomly picked first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the rules for game time here? Random number generators can't even handle numbers that large, but let's assume we have some way to handle this. I can choose an arbitrarily large amount of Twins to create here. What are the rules for resolving this situation? Even if the game goes to time, 5 turns will not pass, this will take place within one turn's stack, and it's not an infinite loop so the game cannot be declared a draw. Is it acceptable to spend, for example 5 hours, if not several days resolving this effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the number is just obnoxiously large enough that it actually takes a computer several hours to spit out a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13892" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T01:35:36.383" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T12:26:26.537" Title="What do I do if mandatory actions will inherently take a very long time to resolve? (Splinter Twin + Tyrant of Discord example)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="21" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27036" CreationDate="2015-09-24T22:55:48.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rule that covers this situation. So call a judge an he will make a decision that allows the tournament to keep running.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One rule that perhaps could be applied here is that you must be able to represent the game state accurately and clearly. IMO, there is no clear way to represent 10^1000 token. Yes, you could write 10^1000 in a paper, but once a few of those tokens die, then it is no longer clear. If we restrict the number of tokens to a number that can actually be represented in the game, we should be able to manage the resolution of Tyrant's trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastEditorUserId="2474" LastEditDate="2015-09-24T23:01:08.413" LastActivityDate="2015-09-24T23:01:08.413" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10930" CreationDate="2015-09-25T00:15:25.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &quot;third&quot; handicap other than material or time is a &quot;propositional&quot; game. An example is that you lose (or cannot win) if you have lost all your pawns before administering checkmate, no matter what else happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That proposition would lead you to play out your pawns more conservatively at the beginning of the game, and perhaps not use pawn storms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other propositions would be that you may castle only king side, or not castle at all.  They would give your son an advantage by altering the dynamics of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T00:15:25.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27039" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27040" CreationDate="2015-09-25T02:21:38.863" Score="8" ViewCount="1730" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic: The Gathering, can I choose not to use the &quot;flying&quot; ability of a creature when attacking (so that it can be blocked by non-flying creatures)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T03:19:12.893" Title="Can I choose not to fly?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27039" CreationDate="2015-09-25T02:33:25.190" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot choose for a creature to behave as though it did not have Flying unless a card specifically says that you can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Flying is an ability, it is not one that you &quot;use&quot;. It is just a fact about the creature, like the fact that it it is Blue or has 3 power (for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T02:33:25.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27033" CreationDate="2015-09-25T03:01:23.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Facedown cards are no longer the same card they were before being turned facedown. In this example, Test Run's &quot;if it is still installed&quot; fails to trigger, and the cards stays where it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on Project ANCUR's answer to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/andrewvan/status/647100448621522945&quot;&gt;question on twitter&lt;/a&gt;, which was favorited by Lukas (and therefore fairly authoritative, I suppose):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No. By being turned face down, it is no longer the previous instance&#xA;  of Harbinger that Test Run has a reference to (it's not an instance of&#xA;  Harbinger at all, just an installed facedown runner card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T03:01:23.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27039" CreationDate="2015-09-25T03:19:12.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;While murgatroid99 is correct that a creature with flying cannot choose to use its ability, there are ways to remove flying temporarily. These include (taking a few random cards for demonstration):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=36410&quot;&gt;Canopy Claws&lt;/a&gt; is an instant that can remove flying until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4513&quot;&gt;Downdraft&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment with a similar activated ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=45126&quot;&gt;Swooping Talon&lt;/a&gt; lets you pay 1 mana to cause it to lose flying until the end of turn (which is designed to work with its Provoke ability).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=24571&quot;&gt;Ribbon Snake&lt;/a&gt; lets &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; player pay 2 mana to cause it to lose flying until end of turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T03:19:12.893" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27043" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27058" CreationDate="2015-09-25T04:32:15.607" Score="3" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cannot do any damage to obstacles, can I intentionally play cards that are useless just to reduce my hand size to 3 to draw two cards? It seems like the game would stall badly otherwise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T09:10:03.350" Title="Can I intentionally play cards that cannot damage obstacles?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27044" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27047" CreationDate="2015-09-25T05:40:26.480" Score="1" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;In what kits can I find storm bolters to use them in my space marine's army? Or how can I model/craft them instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13899" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T19:47:30.760" Title="Where can I find Storm Bolters" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27036" CreationDate="2015-09-25T13:19:44.760" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;If such situation as described by you really applies, only the judge can help in this situation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have various examples how a judge handled alike situation, but most of them had one thing in common: It ended in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The examples that didn't, had in common that the player determined a way to shorten the &quot;choose randomly&quot; process. Here it becomes quite tricky.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end the judge with the right authority does have the last word on this and it cannot be generally determined for all tournaments. This is an example of a gap in between the rules that propably needs some fixing for a fair ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13903" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-09-25T15:36:21.930" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T15:36:21.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="890" CreationDate="2015-09-25T14:45:03.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Trivial Pursuit set that comes with a set of special dice, instead of just one with pips. One die has the colors on it, and the other has a pie symbol on half the faces. Instead of moving around the board, you just roll the dice to get a question color and whether it's worth a pie piece or not. An even faster version lets you re-roll the color if it's for a pie piece you already have. Once you have all the pieces, the next question is for the win. This removes a lot of the tedium of moving around the board trying to specifically land on the pie spots. No more endless chains of hitting &quot;roll again&quot;, and no more trying to get across the board to get that last slice. Every roll, you've got a 50% chance of earning a pie piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T14:45:03.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27044" CreationDate="2015-09-25T17:57:06.957" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Storm Bolter is typically a Terminator weapon; it's a double bolter. It is well illustrated on the 40K wiki. (Links below)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To make one, the easiest way is to use two bolters. Separate the hands/arm/pistolgrips from the body of the weapon. Shave off the right side of one and the left of the other, down until you've just touched the barrel. Glue these together, glue one arm back centered. Patch the gaps. Prime and paint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To convert a terminator's storm bolter for non-terminators, cut off the weapon at the wrist, and the arm at the wrist, and swap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the terminator models I've seen ship with a storm bolter as the default weapon, and I don't recall seing the option for them for non-terminator troops since the days of Rogue Trader, but I'm a casual player only, and so don't keep close track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Terminator_Armour&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Terminator_Armour&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Storm_Bolter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Storm_Bolter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1047" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T17:57:06.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27049" CreationDate="2015-09-25T18:45:43.167" Score="8" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some plot quests and buildings are clearly better than others. Is there a way to at least approximately quantify how much better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T21:23:23.130" LastActivityDate="2016-12-08T10:37:34.347" Title="How do you evaluate a building or plot quest?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27048" CreationDate="2015-09-25T18:45:43.167" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. In fact, it's a great way to learn the financial concept of return on investment (ROI).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you must understand the game's currency:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 coins = 2 oranges or blacks = 1 white or purple&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most obvious way to understand where this conversion comes from is by observing that on the first turn of the game, an agent can be placed to obtain 4 coins, 2 oranges or 2 blacks, or 1 purple or white. You can then plug in any of these conversions to realize that most intrigue cards and same-costed buildings are roughly equal when you convert them to coin-equivalents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Completing a quest is the main way to gather victory points, and if you look carefully at quests (except plot quests), you will notice that there is a simple formula that calculates victory points for most of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;coins + 2 x (oranges or blacks) + 4 x (whites or purples) + 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify the analysis, I assume that all cubes are consumed by quests, because any cubes left over are not worth as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the higher value quests are slightly better. For example all the 25 point ones give you +5 instead of +2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, given that they are so similar, and given that there is a cost of essentially 2 VPs to get a quest, I will assume for the rest of this post that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4 VPs = 4 coins = 2 oranges or blacks = 1 white or purple&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, if you gather 2 oranges from 1 action, that is a 4VP move. If you go on a building that converts 2 blacks into 3 whites, you just changed 4 VPs into 12 VPs, so that was an 8 VP move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you understand everything so far, then you can easily figure out values for buildings. Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House of Wonder: This building costs 4 coins (4VP), but yields 2 coins every time someone places an agent there. It is a very good building to place an agent on, so it is safe to assume that at least one agent will be placed there each turn. If you take the building on turn 1, you spend 4VPs but get the one 1VP that was sitting on the building, so you've spent a net of 3VPs. In return you get 2 VPs per turn times 8 turns, so 2 x 8 = 16 VPs. So that is a 13 VP move. That is a very good move on turn one - an investment of 3VP gets 16 VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you get a lower return on investment if you play it later in the game. Let's say you play the building on turn 7 and it has 3 VPs sitting on it. You only have to pay a net of 1 VP, but you will get only 4 VP back, so it is a 3VP move which means is generally below average (unless you hold the lord that gets a 6VP bonus for every building).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turns out that most buildings costing 4 follow that same formula. Buildings costing 8 generally yield 4 VPs per turn, so they are actually a higher VP move on turn 1 than a 4 cost building, if you can afford to get them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One building stands above the rest:  Yawning Portal. For an investment of 3 VP (you won't get it for less as competent players won't let this go untaken), you get 4 VP per turn at the minimum. However, this is so good to put an agent on (one of the best) that you will typically get the income from it more than once on many turns, due to various intrigue cards, ongoing quests, or buildings that allow extra agent placements on the same space. If you manage to get it on turn 1, then a normal game might get 12 agents landing there for 48 VPs. In other words, this is a 45 VP move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can do similar types of analysis for the plot quests. One of the best plot quests is Bloster Griffon Calvary. If you can generate 2 bonus orange cubes each turn, that is the equivalent of 4VP per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the earlier you get a plot quest or building, the better the return on investment. To quantify, use the above math. You do have to make an estimate about how much the card or building will be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One last comment: The above math is oversimplified to at least enable comparing competing buildings. It's more complex however when you consider that introducing a building to the game also helps the players who place agents on it. Yawning Portal expands the economy for everyone. While the owner benefits most, other players also benefit with a similar total number of VPs introduced into the game, but divided among the players. I say this because the normal move is a 4VP move, but placing an agent on Yawning Portal is an 8 VP move. Therefore, while a player taking Yawning Portal may net out 45 VP over the course of the game, in a 3 player game the other players may benefit by 24VP each, so the relative benefit is 21VP. Still very good, but not as astoundingly good as indicated by the simplified analysis above indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastEditorUserId="2260" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T20:52:23.967" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:52:23.967" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24753" CreationDate="2015-09-25T23:44:13.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only mobilize in an area which 1) you control and 2) on which there is an industrial complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the beginning of the game, India does not have an industrial complex. Nor does Russia control it. The &quot;best&quot; Russia can do is to advise her UK ally to 1) build an  industrial complex in India, then 2) build three pieces and 3) move them into Novosibirsk, or some other place of Russia's choice. Each of those activities takes up a whole turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the UK (an ally) holds India, Russia cannot capture or control it. But suppose Japan 1) captures it and 2) builds an industrial complex and 3) allows Russia to &quot;recapture&quot; it. Then what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, Russia will have to return India to the UK, an ally. The exception to the rule is if the UK's capital is under occupation, say by Germany. Then since it is basically out of the game, Russia can keep India, build an industrial complex there, and mobilize the following turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-09-25T23:44:13.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23545" CreationDate="2015-09-26T00:21:34.637" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Courtesan token stays on a Leader that gets entombed. This is based on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/12355980#12355980&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eddie the Cranky Gamer’s post on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/23617/3532&quot;&gt;to which @Jean-Sébastien links to in his answer, too&lt;/a&gt;), who says the he’s asked Repos:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I put the question to Repos and the answer was that the Courtesan stays in play, with the same assumed power of the now-entombed leader. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the Courtesan token on an already entombed Leader is not possible. At least that’s how I understand &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/14351243#14351243&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ovidiu Cirlugea’s BoardGameGeek post, quoting the game author Antoine Bauza&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You cannot copy it once its buried […]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Putting the Courtesan token on a Leader which is entombed on the same turn is possible, as detailed in that same BGG thread:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, you can copy a leader, even if your neighbor choose to bury it during the same turn. The copy remains, even if the original is buried after !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2018-07-26T17:33:18.990" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T17:33:18.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1679" CreationDate="2015-09-26T15:49:46.743" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It says explicitly at the end of the rule book of the in the lab extension that it gets easier with 3 teams of 2 (6 players) and that you should start at a higher infection rate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13913" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T15:49:46.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1992" CreationDate="2015-09-26T16:28:37.350" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To completely solve the problem of randomizer cards, Don't use them at all. INSTEAD use one card from each kingdom pile, and shuffle them. Draw your 10 cards for the supply piles. Lay these drawn cards out as the bottom card for each supply pile. Then place the rest of the stack for each of these cards, on top of them. When the pile is out, it's out. RIO GRANDE... ARE YOU LISTENING. This would save you millions of cards not printed. No more confusion over what to do with them. Even happier nubbies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13914" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T16:28:37.350" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7882" CreationDate="2015-09-26T18:23:48.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'd usually consider the Throne the lowest priority to bid on it is possibly the best option if everybody is low on Influence Markers (e.g. if you bid two turns in a row or right after a wildling attack). In that case the average bid on everything is rather low and a lot of ties occur. To be king can grant you the best average for them all. &#xA;Besides it is one of few ways to influence all the map - even that dreaded super-player you don't share a border with. Tie breaking is subtle and while not usually a huge advantage for you individually it is still an influential power for the big picture.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also people may share the oppinion of the thrown being a low priority so it can be snatched cheaply at times - especially if you are king to begin with and decide a potential tie. Kings sometimes establish themselves early and stay on the throne throughout since often nobody really challenges him on that while he can get the throne cheapest (tie breaking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The positions 2 - 6 however are nothing I'd really bid on (as opposed to Raven and sword where the difference between 2 and 6 is huge). Nonetheless the turn order can be quite relevant for the finish.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Imagine you conquer one to three castles for a total of 6 but aren't able to really secure it. Unless the orders that your opponents chose for this turn (before knowing you'd advance) allow them to react immediately they will have zero opportunity to attack. This turn they may be taken by surprised, next turn you can finish before they can do anything about it. If you move before your neighbors do that is. Even an indefensible position doesn't matter if the opponent can't attack. You don't necessarily need the #1 spot on the throne either as long as those that actually threaten your castles move after you. This way you can realisticly take up to four castles before the enemy can do anything about it, albeit in two turns.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The risk is twofold: for one thing they may not be surprise-chained after all and stop / undo your initial gains before the turn ends. Secondly the Westeros phase in the follow up turn can change your position on the throne: you may not go first after all even if you did this turn around. If you fail you can expect heavy punishment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In any case this can potentially be a chance to win from behind, especially if you combine it with siege weapons (this strategy doesn't defend anyway after all). You don't even need to leave troops but merely markers since you don't plan on defending - a small army may be all you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13915" LastEditorUserId="13915" LastEditDate="2015-09-26T18:36:04.000" LastActivityDate="2015-09-26T18:36:04.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27062" CreationDate="2015-09-26T22:16:25.150" Score="3" ViewCount="134" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25730/does-it-make-sense-for-a-defender-to-lead-a-short-major-when-opponents-fail-to-f&quot;&gt;original question&lt;/a&gt; that inspired this one: It was about whether West should lead a short major instead of a long, weak minor when the opponents failed to find a fit using Stayman. A number of people weighed in with both statistical and experiential analysis of why the long weak suit was (somewhat) better. That result doesn't surprise me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even so, does it make sense to lead the spade one or two times out of ten in order to confuse declarers that are accustomed to West's leading long suits? Meaning that a declarer might be led to &quot;finesse&quot; into the East hand or make other misplays? Plus the fact that doubt is then cast on his ability to read West's hand in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Making the occasional &quot;suboptimal&quot; play is a staple of poker for &quot;bluffing purposes.&quot; (If you are bluffing, you are making an inferior play and hoping to &quot;get away&quot; with it. And if you are &quot;caught,&quot; your opponents can't be sure that you are playing &quot;honestly&quot; next time.) Is there anything that stands in the way of doing this in bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T20:15:41.057" Title="Does it make sense for a defender to occasionally adopt a slightly inferior line in order to &quot;mix up&quot; the play?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27043" CreationDate="2015-09-27T08:24:35.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can play cards that will not do damage. The turn order is set up so that you have played all cards you will be playing before you actually apply damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw &amp;amp; Buy Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End Turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 6 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.shadowruntabletop.com/wp-content/uploads/CAT27700_Crossfire_Full%20Rules.pdf?b979cc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This section states you can play cards even if there is no obstacle to use their damage against&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You play cards from your hand during your turn, one at a time.&#xA;  If your cards have any abilities other than damage on them,&#xA;  resolve those abilities when you play the card. Your starting&#xA;  decks don’t have any cards with non-damage abilities,&#xA;  though. When you play a card, you don’t put it into your discard&#xA;  yet. Instead, put it next to the obstacle that you want to&#xA;  damage with the card (you can damage obstacles facing any&#xA;  runner). You don’t place cards into your discard until after you&#xA;  apply damage. You are allowed to play cards even if there is&#xA;  no obstacle to use their damage against.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This section says you can partially damage an obstacle on your turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an obstacle has a damage track level that requires&#xA;  4 damage to clear, and you can apply only 3 damage&#xA;  to it, the damage on that level will reset at the end of your&#xA;  turn. The next runner will still need to deal 4 damage to it&#xA;  to clear it during their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T08:24:35.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T09:58:36.927" Score="6" ViewCount="1534" Body="&lt;p&gt;During Battle for Zendikar prerelease yesterday I played my first &quot;real cards&quot; MTG tournament since GP Vienna around 2003-ish. Now I learned that there is now a DCI website where you can look up your tournament results, Planeswalker points, etc. Apparently, it is this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://accounts.wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://accounts.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I am wondering how to actually create an account there using my existing (8-digit) DCI number from way back. Using &lt;strong&gt;Create Account&lt;/strong&gt; won't do, as it seems to create a new, unchangeable, DCI number. Using &lt;strong&gt;Activate DCI number&lt;/strong&gt; functionality does not do what I want, since my number is from long before activation codes were a thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have considered contacting support, but based on previous interactions I was hoping that there is an easier solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11527" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T00:47:08.000" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T19:00:27.920" Title="How do I create an account with Wizards of the Coast if I have a very old DCI number without activation code?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27057" CreationDate="2015-09-27T12:55:48.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poker is not a team game; Bridge is. For this reason it is essential that  your plays be reliable &lt;em&gt;at all times when partner has any decisions to be made, potentially or actually&lt;/em&gt;. The loss in partnership confidence from not adhering to this maxim is far more devastating than any small gain from mixing up your signals like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All too often on Defence the Defenders' knowledge is shared asymmetrically through most of the play. In these cases each Defender needs to trust that, if the situation remains unclear, at a minimum Partner's carding can be trusted to be an accurate guide to decision making. Your suggested strategy confounds this fundamental tenet of &lt;em&gt;partnership confidence&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, there are complicating ethical questions about the mechanics of playing such a strategy ethically, Partner and opponents are not only both entitled to knowledge of the carding agreement in place, but Partner must be capable of fully explaining it's nuances, frequency, and constraints to the opponents at the table. Any failure to meet these ethical obligations is an ethics violation subject to the most sever penalties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know how top players &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; bluff you could do worse &lt;a href=&quot;http://sj-ace-of-clubs.com/games/deal/h-10.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;than&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sj-ace-of-clubs.com/games/deal/h-12.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;to look&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sj-ace-of-clubs.com/games/deal/h-10.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;up a&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sj-ace-of-clubs.com/games/deal/copc.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;few&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://sj-ace-of-clubs.com/games/deal/h-9.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;stories&lt;/a&gt; by Randy (Racoon) Bennett&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T14:04:38.923" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T14:04:38.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27057" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:15:41.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you bluff declarer, you are also bluffing your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have never had the experience of playing with a partner who usually knows all your cards at trick 3 (or would, assuming you played correctly and opponents bid sensibly), I guess all I can say is that you're missing out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you play with your partner much more than you play against any particular declarer, so bluffing causes your partner to misguess much more than it will cause declarer to misguess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if declarer is a better player than your partner, then by all means go ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a second problem, which is that if you have any tells (including just playing more slowly because you're thinking about it) that you are bluffing, partner might pick up on them, and that causes partner ethical problems.  They will be ethically constrained to play as if your play was an honest play, and possibly even go out of the way to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's go back to the hand you linked as an example.  If you lead the 6 of spades, then partner would probably assume you either did not have 5 diamonds or you lacked an entry.  (If you lead the 4, except in Poland where it is standard to lead low from small doubletons, partner will miscount the hand altogether.)  This could easily mean that partner won't lead a heart to you at trick 8 because he or she believes declarer has the ace of hearts (since, at that point, he or she already has count of the diamonds).  That is almost as likely to blow a trick (or two!) as failing to set up diamonds.  (Of course, partner is only going to misread the hand if declarer started with 15 points rather than 17, so that it is actually possible for declarer to have the A with you having the Q instead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the long run, of course, this just means partner doesn't believe you'll make the best (or agreed upon) play, and he or she will start defending more randomly.  If your partner can't make the kind of read I just described, then it matters a lot less (especially if declarer can and so will actually be fooled).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T20:15:41.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-27T20:43:49.070" Score="1" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both sides vulnerable, South dealt and bid one heart. West overcalled one spade, North three hearts, East three spades, South four hearts, East four spades, South five hearts. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West held (s) KQJT8 (h) 2 (d) K93 (c) JT32, and led the K of spades. The column characterized the lead as &quot;natural,&quot; but called it an error, because leading the 3 of diamonds would have beaten the contract. (East had the A, West the K, and East a &quot;side&quot; trick.) In the actual hand, South captured the K of spades with the A, and then successfully &quot;sluffed&quot; two diamond losers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any widely accepted theory or statistical study (e.g. a Monte Carlo simulation) that would lead one to believe that the 3 of diamonds is the better lead &lt;em&gt;a priori&lt;/em&gt;, based on the bidding? Or am I right to believe that the columnist was &quot;resulting,&quot; based on this one hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the lead of the 3 of diamonds was statistically inferior, but made by an expert, would it just be considered a mistake, on would it be grounds for potential discipline, based on the assumption that the expert had more knowledge of the hand that he was entitled to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T20:50:39.410" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T23:38:18.813" Title="Was a bridge column &quot;resulting&quot; when it criticized an opening lead?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27063" CreationDate="2015-09-27T22:39:40.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Second question first: Could this be evidence of cheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not by itself.  A large number of hands where an expert correctly guessed along with a paucity of hands where the expert incorrectly guessed might be considered evidence of cheating.  This kind of thing comes up in maybe once in a hundred deals, the case where the lead makes a difference maybe once in five hundred, and I would think you need at least a 5/5 or 9/10 success rate to even think cheating might be going on.  We're talking about looking at 5,000 deals, and pretty much only professionals play that much bridge in a year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First question: Is this really an error?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It really depends on how likely one of the opponents is to have a first round spade control (ace, void, or both) and a source of discards (both ace and void, or running clubs).  This in turn depends on their bidding system and style.  For example, South was limited to say 15 points (playing some strong club system), it would be much more likely.  Also if North was by agreement very weak (say &amp;lt;6 points) for the 3 hearts bid.  It's also possible South has a lead directing bid available over 4 spades (say if 5 diamonds would have meant &quot;I want to play in 5 hearts but if they bid 5 spades then lead a diamond&quot;), in which case failure to make such a bid is meaningful.  Also, West might have information from opponents' mannerisms that West is certainly allowed to take advantage of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless it's actually clear one way or the other (I'm not an expert; I don't know), it would be pretty hard to make enough justifiable assumptions to say what the right play was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if it's a long team match, there may be state of the match considerations about how much of a risk you want to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastEditorUserId="13579" LastEditDate="2015-09-27T22:45:17.037" LastActivityDate="2015-09-27T22:45:17.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27066" CreationDate="2015-09-28T05:18:36.837" Score="3" ViewCount="1518" Body="&lt;p&gt;The interaction I'm wondering about is between &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bounding%20Krasis&quot;&gt;Bounding Krasis&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Harbinger%20of%20the%20Tides&quot;&gt;Harbinger of the Tides&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collected%20Company&quot;&gt;Collected Company&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a part of Collected Company's resolution, two creatures may enter the battlefield at the same time.  If both these creatures have ETB triggers, the controller gets to choose what order they go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Harbinger of the Tides has an ETB trigger that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Harbinger of the Tides enters the battlefield, you may return target tapped creature an opponent controls to its owner's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bounding Krasis has an ETB trigger that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Bounding Krasis enters the battlefield, you may tap or untap target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Bounding Krasis and a Harbinger of the Tides entered the battlefield at the same time due to a spell such as Collected Company, would the controller be able to target an untapped creature with Harbinger's trigger and then tap it with the Krasis trigger on top of it on the stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T13:25:10.733" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T13:25:10.733" Title="Can an illegal target that will become a legal target before the spell resolves be targeted?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27065" CreationDate="2015-09-28T05:21:05.883" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't choose to target an illegal target. Period. When the Harbinger of Tides enters the battlefield, it can only target creatures that are tapped &lt;em&gt;at that time&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be specific, the following rules are relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3d&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The remainder of the process for putting a triggered ability on the stack is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2c–d. &lt;strong&gt;If a choice is required when the triggered ability goes on the stack but no legal choices can be made for it, or if a rule or a continuous effect otherwise makes the ability illegal, the ability is simply removed from the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T05:30:42.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27059" CreationDate="2015-09-28T05:25:24.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/myaccounts/FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; indicates that you can merge multiple DCI numbers into one account. This may be a way for you to get what you want, by first making a new account, and then merging in your old DCI number. The fine print, however, suggests that this will only work for previously activated DCI numbers, so you may again be out of luck there and need to contact customer support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T05:25:24.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27059" CreationDate="2015-09-28T14:20:33.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The website &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2301/=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2301/=1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually answers this question, but not quite obvious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says numbers shorter than 10 digits have been converted and that you can receive your DCI number either at a local WPN store (where you have to ask) or via the contact form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13903" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T14:20:33.080" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27059" CreationDate="2015-09-28T19:00:27.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may already have an account, and just need to reset your password. I have an 8-digit DCI number and resetting my password was how I gained access to the account. You don't need to merge unless you have multiple DCI numbers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T19:00:27.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20546" CreationDate="2015-09-28T19:02:11.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casino_token#Colors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;$2.50 chips are mostly used for blackjacktables, since a &quot;natural&quot; (a 21 on the first two cards dealt to a player) typically pays 3:2 and most wagers are in increments of $5. However, the Tropicana Casino and Borgatain Atlantic City, New Jersey, and others, have used $2.50 (pink) chips in $7.50 to $15 and $10 to $20 poker games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They have $2.50 chips especially for the case you're describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T23:07:50.347" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T23:07:50.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27011" CreationDate="2015-09-28T19:42:13.330" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;After doing a lot more research and sometimes even stumbling across answers for this while looking up other topics, I found a few good reasons why someone would use a suit aware system. I had way better results found when looking up the more well-known Red Seven counting system rather than the KISS II and KISS III methods which are not as commonly known as the Red Seven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Red Seven System&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested, most guides explaining how and why you should use Red Seven makes a point of boasting about its ease of use combined with its professional edge you would usually only see in more complicated systems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red Seven Card Value Assignments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;2,3,4,5,6 = +1&#xA;T,A = -1&#xA;Red 7 = +1&#xA;Black 7 = 0&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Effects of Removal&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To appreciate what a Suit Aware system is trying to accomplish, I'd like to introduce EoR or &quot;Effects of Removal.&quot; This table represents the effect each card has on the player's advantage if it is removed from the deck. The table values represent how the player's advantage % is affected in a single deck game of blackjack. (It will be a little different in an 8-deck shoe game but this single deck chart can be used for example). The values of this table was taken from the online book, Modern Blackjack (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.qfit.com/book/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.qfit.com/book/&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;2 = +0.38&#xA;3 = +0.44&#xA;4 = +0.55&#xA;5 = +0.69&#xA;6 = +0.46&#xA;7 = +0.28&#xA;8 = 0&#xA;9 = -0.18&#xA;T = -0.51&#xA;A = -0.61&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most common and easiest card counting systems such as Hi-Lo and KO tend to assign a value of 1, 0, or -1 to each card. This is mainly for ease of use and are known as level 1 systems. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hi-Lo's card values are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;2,3,4,5,6 = 1&#xA;7,8,9 = 0&#xA;T,A = -1&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aimed more towards simplicity, the easier level 1 systems ignore the fact that a 5 taken out of the deck gives almost twice the advantage of a 2 being taken out of the deck. Level 2, 3, and 4 systems exist that take these ratios into consideration and assign point values that have more correlation with the effect of removal value each card has. For example, Revere RAPC is a highly complicated system that focuses more on the accuracy of EoR card values at the risk of having more player errors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revere RAPC Values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;2,7 = 2&#xA;3,4,6 = 3&#xA;5 = 4&#xA;8 = 0&#xA;9 = -1&#xA;T = -3&#xA;A = -4&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can imagine that human error tends to be much higher in this system, especially when compared to something easier such as the Hi-Lo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Advantages of Red Seven or other Suit Aware Systems&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now with a firm understanding of Effects of Removal(EoR), we can see how a Suit Aware system may help. The goal of a Suit Aware system is usually to keep things at a level 1 difficulty level while adding in a bit of advantage that only more complicated systems would use. In fact, all suit aware systems I've found online claim to be level 1. Another interesting trend is that they are all Unbalanced systems which tend to be easier for many players because it does not use division to find a true count of the cards remaining. By using a Suit Aware system, you keep the simplicity of only adding and subtracting 1 to the count, but get the advantage of not adding +1 for every 7 in play. (More relevant to the 7's EoR value). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting bit I found on some Blackjack forum posts, is that using 0.5 for a value of 7 instead of +1 or 0 depending on the suit actually decreased the accuracy of the Red Seven system. I believe these tests were run using simulations in the CVData app but can't say for sure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, in conclusion, I would still prefer a level 1 or level 2 balanced system. I'm just more comfortable with starting at 0 and having to divide rather than starting with a large negative number that unbalanced counting systems have to use. Nearly all famous Blackjack experts strongly suggest its not about which counting system is the best but about which system you are most comfortable with. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I find any other helpful or interesting information, I'll be sure to update my post here. Thanks everyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13851" LastEditorUserId="13851" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T01:51:33.360" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T01:51:33.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27077" CreationDate="2015-09-28T22:34:20.593" Score="2" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I'm playing a game, and I start to cast a spell at the wrong time (e.g. an enchantment when I could only cast an instant). As I reveal the spell, an opponent points out that it's an enchantment and I pull it back into my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if this was two-headed giant and one opponent player saw that it was an enchantment while the other read its name, it would be free information for them to check the effect of the card based on its name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, however, I pull the card back straight away and they know nothing about it (other than I want to cast it), am I obliged to reveal the card/provide details about it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, is this different if I accidentally reveal a card from my own hand, which the opponents glimpse, without any intention of casting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T16:26:32.183" Title="When does showing a card in hand become free information?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27075" CreationDate="2015-09-28T22:51:03.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: The name of the card is only free information for the duration that you are attempting to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hand is a hidden zone, so cards in your hand are never free information, even if you accidentally let another player see it. However, in the situation you described, the card's name was briefly free information. Specifically, one of the types of objects that counts as free information is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The name of any visible object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you revealed the card and intended to cast it as a spell, you put it on the stack and started the process of casting it [CR 601.2a]. Once the card was on the stack, it was in a public zone, so its name was free information. Then, assuming that you declared any relevant modes, targets, and distributions as part of your initial announcement, you then moved on to the fifth step of casting a spell, determining whether the spell was legal to cast [CR 601.2e]. At that point, it was determined that casting the spell was illegal, so the process was reversed and the card was returned to your hand [CR 717.1]. Once the card was back in your hand, it was no longer in a public zone, so its name was no longer free information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the card left the stack, it became private information, so at that point you are no longer obligated to tell them what card it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-28T23:54:22.753" LastActivityDate="2015-09-28T23:54:22.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27075" CreationDate="2015-09-28T23:40:07.840" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a number of places in your question, it's not clear whether you are referring to the &lt;em&gt;name of a card object&lt;/em&gt; or to &lt;em&gt;the Oracle content for a card of a given name&lt;/em&gt;. These are very different things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When does showing a card in hand become free information?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The name of a card in your hand is private information, save for two exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are instructed to reveal a card (or all cards) in your hand, you must clearly communicate the names of the affected cards. Their names cease to be free information before anything else happens.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you are instructed to play with a card (or all cards) of your hand revealed, the names of the affected cards is free information. Their names cease to be free information the moment the effect ends.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As I reveal the spell, an opponent points out that it's an enchantment and I pull it back into my hand.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the card was on the stack, it was in a public zone, and thus its name was free information. The moment the error was corrected, the card reverted to being in a hidden zone, and thus its name reverted to being private information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Now, if this was two-headed giant and one opponent player saw that it was an enchantment while the other read its name, it would be free information for them to check the effect of the card based on its name.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. The Oracle content for a card of a given name is derived information (not free information) at all times. At Regular REL, though, derived information is considered free information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;If, however, I pull the card back straight away and they know nothing about it (other than I want to cast it), am I obliged to reveal the card/provide details about it?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, though the precise answer depends on what they asked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they ask &quot;What card was that?&quot;, you need not answer since it's private information (as answered above). You may even be allowed to lie about it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they ask &quot;What's a Giant Growth?&quot;, you need not answer since it's derived information. If you do answer, you must answer truthfully. They may request this information from a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Additionally, is this different if I accidentally reveal a card from my own hand, which the opponents glimpse, without any intention of casting?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T16:26:32.183" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T16:26:32.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8622" CreationDate="2015-09-29T06:34:19.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm, I find the artwork in SoS vs. CotG to be the same difference.  Then again, my taste in art is typically less sophisticated when compared to many other board gamers.  However, the fact that this is so subjective means it could be a good reason or not to the next person.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking of art, SoS has new art for the starter deck and &quot;always on&quot; deck (Mystics, Apprentices, HI, Militia, Cultist).  Aesthetics aside, the layout colors, and patterns of one set here may be more pleasing and distinguishable compared to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Key (x/y faction/noun)&#xA;x is the cost, or power of monster.  Y is the honor it gives&#xA;faction is enlightened, void, etc.  Noun is hero, construct, or monster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the cards and the games themselves, in some ways, SoS is a superset of CotG.  OTOH, there are some cards that round out SoS nicely.  It's a hassle to deal with twice as many cards, but it can be worth it.  For example, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-The Pen/Umbral Edges (6/3 v/c) can be a bit overpowered with just SoS due to higher odds of getting both of them.  Adding another set keeps it more diluted and less of a power creep&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-The base game m/c were rather OP-ed... you go for them, and it's a solid path to winning.  Dilution helps with that.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Two-Fold Askara (4/2 e/h) lets you copy the effect of any here, and is always fun to have around.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-Arha Templar (4/3 e/h) pairs nicely with Rise Of The Cult event since they can go after Fanatics that now have their power/hp at 4.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-some interactions between the Events and base game cards&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-SoS's Events and Trophy Monster system makes going power a more viable path, but adding base game brings back the &quot;classic cards&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T06:34:19.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5604" CreationDate="2015-09-29T06:49:02.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've managed to play many games on digital with all expansions to date which include up to Dawn Of Champions, and even several promos.  There's already been some good answers concerning &quot;in general&quot;, or for just that set (base game/CotG).  I'll also add...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Copy effects so you can get both a rune AND a power (although yeah... it's still only 1 of each, and usually more rare where you'd need 1 of each).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Use as &quot;cannon fodder&quot;. If you have an effect that forces you to banish or discard a card, may as well be that if it can't be a Militia nor Apprentice.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If it's an effect where you get to acquire a card of &quot;up to x more honor than the card you banished&quot;, then you count from 1, whereas banishing a Militia or Apprentice is considered 0 honor. For example, you can Banish a Mech. Initiate with a Storm Of Souls card, and acquire a card that is up to 3 honor, not just 2 (2 more than the banished card in this case)!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With Realms Unraveled (exp #6), there are cards which give you a bonus if you've played 1 or more Mechana Hero(es). He's a cheap way to get to that!  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;With Dawn Of Champions (exp #7) there are cards that give you a bonus if you play any Mechana card (hero or construct).  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another thing with DoC is there is the &quot;Champion&quot; mechanic where each player starts off with a random faction (Enlightened, Void, Lifebound, or Mechana).  If you're given mechana, all mechana cards you acquire will give you one Reputation.  Normally, you add Reputation by paying 2 runes, and that method is limited to once per turn.  If there are 2 Mechana Initiates in the Center Row, 2 runes to buy them gets you 2 Reputation! &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Because of DoC's crazy Rally mechanic, you may end up getting a Mechana Initiate for free.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There are Promo cards, and perhaps from regular sets where you get bonuses from playing Mechana cards/heroes, 1 of each faction, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastEditorUserId="17509" LastEditDate="2016-09-05T20:51:12.640" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T20:51:12.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7794" CreationDate="2015-09-29T07:02:00.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When considering expansions, some of the cross-set card interactions are covered here...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/27079/13749&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/27079/13749&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just that set alone, Lifebound Initiate combos with Snapdragon (5/2 l/c... 5 cost, 2 honor; lifebound construct) which says you get +1 honor for the first l/h you play.  This card also pairs with Runic Lycanthrope to get +2 power as well.  Void Initiate is nice early on to thin out your deck of Militias and Apprentices.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be a good idea to buy these as a cheap way to get new cards into the CR (center row).  In your OP, you mentioned higher cost cards, but also Monsters.  If you have 1 rune and 8 power, buying one of those cards could clear the way for a juicy Monster for all that power to kill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cross expansion stuff not covered in that link...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Immortal Heroes (exp #3)&#xA;-has an Enlightened event where each Enlightened card you buy lets you draw one card&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-has a Void event where each Void card you get lets you banish a card from your hand or discard pile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ALL EXPANSIONS&lt;br&gt;&#xA;-There are cards that look for # of lifebound cards played, or have Unite effects, or Multi-Unite with Realms Unraveled (exp #6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T07:02:00.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27036" CreationDate="2015-09-29T12:26:26.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fundamental issue here, is that you and your opponent appear to be unable to identify a mutually agreeable shortcut.  As such, it's a slow play violation.  I would tend to think the player &quot;at fault&quot; is the player generating the excessive number of tokens.  But I'm only the referee in my house, not in tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the short cuts defined in section 4.2 in the tournament rules describe a mechanism for your particular conundrum.  But a variety of short cuts exist, each having a different amount of fidelity to the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular question about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTyrant%20of%20discord%5d&quot;&gt;Tyrant of discord&lt;/a&gt; has been addressed &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG/comments/1gmimr/commander_whats_the_easiest_way_to_resolve_a/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;before&lt;/a&gt;.  But to summarize.  If you have 8 land, and 10^100 other permanents, generate 8 random numbers between [1, 10^100+8].  Those numbers represent the order in which the lands will be destroyed by Tyrant.  So, take the smallest of them, and that tells you how many tokens got destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=uniform%5B0%2C%2010%5E100%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;random number generator&lt;/a&gt; available with that kind of range, you can use a 10 sided die to represent the first digit of the number for each of the 8 lands.  Then, find the numbers tied for smallest, roll again for the second digit.  Etc.  Once you get a single number, you can round up, and that will be the number of tokens destroyed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative approach is to take the average (i.e. mean) number destroyed.  That requires a bit of math, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://math.stackexchange.com/questions/74210/expected-number-of-draws-until-the-first-good-element-is-chosen&quot;&gt;on average&lt;/a&gt;, you will destroy (10^100 + 8 + 1) / (8 + 1) tokens, which will leave you with roughly 10^99 tokens.  You can drop it down to 10^93 to account for &quot;1 in a million&quot; type chances to placate your opponent, and you should still be good to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final approach, but I haven't worked out the details, is to approximate the number destroyed using a gaussian/normal random variable.  You need to compute the standard deviation of the number (it's a computation that's more difficult than the mean referenced above, but can be done.)  And then generate an appropriately shifted/scaled normal random variable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:19:19.487" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T12:26:26.537" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27083" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:43:50.357" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most common variations of card counting in blackjack are based on statistical evidence that high cards (especially aces and 10s) benefit the player more than the dealer, while the low cards, (3s, 4s, 6s, and especially 5s) help the dealer while hurting the player. A high concentration of aces and 10s in the deck increases the player's chances of hitting a natural Blackjack, which pays out 3:2 (unless the dealer also has blackjack). Also, when the shoe has a high concentration of 10s, players have a better chance of winning when doubling. Low cards benefit the dealer, since according to blackjack rules the dealer must hit stiff hands (12-16 total) while the player has the option to hit or stand. Thus a dealer holding (12-16) will bust every time if the next card drawn is a 10, making this card essential to track when card counting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13851" LastEditorUserId="13851" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T05:40:42.477" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T05:40:42.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27084" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-29T13:43:50.357" Score="0" Body="Card counting is a casino card game strategy used primarily in the blackjack family of casino games to determine whether the next hand is likely to give a probable advantage to the player or to the dealer." OwnerUserId="13851" LastEditorUserId="13851" LastEditDate="2015-09-29T23:04:23.763" LastActivityDate="2015-09-29T23:04:23.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27086" CreationDate="2015-09-29T16:27:22.120" Score="4" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just got the firefly boardgame a few weeks ago and have a couple group games and two solo plays done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One thing I can't figure out yet is why you wouldn't always assign your entire crew to a job.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No matter if they are assigned they are need to be payed and will get disgruntled if you do an immoral job and they are moral, so the only reason I can see is if you are ready doing a Niska job and don't want to risk them getting killed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am still playing the stock game, no expansions yet.  Really looking forward to snagging pirates and bounty hunters, the added player interaction seems to be the one glaring hole in the mechanics so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5593" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T19:43:05.543" Title="Why would you ever not assign your full crew on a job?" Tags="|firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27085" CreationDate="2015-09-29T17:46:21.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question makes no sense; the game has no concept of assigning crew to a job. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, it is possible that some crew members are not available to Misbehave. For example, Shepherd Book stays on the ship for immoral jobs, River Tam may have returned to the ship due to an earlier roll, and a medic may have returned a crew to the ship to heal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eG7mZ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shepherd Book&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T19:43:05.543" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T19:43:05.543" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27087" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27091" CreationDate="2015-09-30T04:45:56.453" Score="0" ViewCount="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;A crossfire card is drawn at the start of each round. When a scene is ended in the Crossfire mission, do rounds reset so the next player to go draws the crossfire, or are rounds independent from the boundaries of where scene endings fall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T13:22:34.493" Title="Do rounds progress independently from scenes?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27089" CreationDate="2015-09-30T12:56:55.307" Score="1" ViewCount="267" Body="&lt;p&gt;You each are soldiers executing campaigns. Each turn you must play a card that contains a combination of some terrains and some symbols. If the board ever shows 3 of the same terrain or symbol, you lose the campaign. Instead of playing a card you can withdraw; if all players withdraw, you succeed in the campaign. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T13:19:38.367" Title="What's the name of this co-op card-based game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27088" CreationDate="2015-09-30T13:11:42.987" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/171668/grizzled&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Grizzled&lt;/a&gt; or in its native language, Les Poilus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An excerpt from &lt;a href=&quot;http://nerdybutflirty.com/2015/08/07/10-new-games-im-most-excited-about-from-gen-con-2015/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a description I found&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players take on the role of French soldiers in World War I. You can&#xA;  choose your difficulty level, which means how many cards are in your&#xA;  hand. On your turn, you can either play a card from your hand or&#xA;  withdraw. There are two types of cards; ones with symbols on them&#xA;  (night, rain, bullets, gas mask, etc) and ones with a lightning bolt&#xA;  and text on them. If you play a symbol card, it goes into the river.&#xA;  If you ever play a card that would cause you to have three of the same&#xA;  symbol, you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T13:11:42.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27088" CreationDate="2015-09-30T13:19:38.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does sound like The Grizzled from Cool Mini or Not, but you don't win by all players withdrawing. Instead you win by playing through all the cards of a draw deck and every player having no cards in their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13928" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T13:19:38.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27087" CreationDate="2015-09-30T13:22:34.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rounds are independent from where scenarios begin and end. In fact, when I play we are cognizant of that and will try to make sure a scenario finishes right before the next Crossfire card is drawn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13928" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T13:22:34.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T13:36:04.077" Score="5" ViewCount="5093" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in a group that says we play party bridge and the rules for honors are different than for rubber bridge. What exactly are the differences between party bridge and rubber bridge, and why are they different?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, are the honors scored the same in both party bridge and rubber bridge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13929" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T14:00:48.257" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T22:56:54.057" Title="is party bridge the same as rubber bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-07-03T05:45:51.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27093" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27107" CreationDate="2015-09-30T14:14:35.537" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/13308/niagara&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Niagara&lt;/a&gt; (sometimes called Iguazu) has one of the most entertaining boards I've ever encountered. It's a shame that sometimes a river piece gets stuck, or two consecutive river pieces move down the same side of the waterfall instead of alternating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the latter occurs, are we supposed to 'fix' it (e.g. pieces are supposed to alternate) or not (pieces go where they happen to go when you push)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We always went with alternating pieces, but sometimes it can be difficult to establish which way the last piece went to determine the direction of the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T14:43:23.083" Title="Alternating paths in Niagara" Tags="|niagara|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27094" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-09-30T14:17:20.437" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T14:17:20.437" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T14:17:20.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27095" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-09-30T14:17:20.437" Score="0" Body="3-5 players drop their canoes into the niagara rivers in search of precious gems. Who will be the first to complete their collection?" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-09-30T17:06:53.163" LastActivityDate="2015-09-30T17:06:53.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27099" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:34:06.007" Score="0" ViewCount="135" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say &quot;Once runners have earned Karma, they may gain upgrades.&quot; on page 22 of the rules.  Does this mean that I specifically may not change my upgrades after a mission in which I've failed to gain any Karma, and also that anytime I gain even a single Karma point, I can manage my upgrades?  It seems to make more sense, even more so since they are able to be swapped out, to be allowed to switch them between any missions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:07:59.813" Title="When can upgrades be obtained or edited?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-09-30T18:46:10.470" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Crossfire mission, there are 3 scenes where you face off with N, N+1, and N+2 obstacles in turn.  The Crossfire card is drawn at the start of the turn of the player who started the game (not the player who started the scene necessarily). I.e., if there are 4 players, the crossfire is drawn every 4 turns, and if the scene ends after 3 turns, the crossfire isn't drawn until the &lt;strong&gt;second&lt;/strong&gt; turn in the next scene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it more advantageous to end scenes as soon as your team can or to align the ending of a scene with the drawing of a crossfire event?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of ending as early as possible is that you can have a number of turns with no crossfire event active, particularly useful when you have a fresh batch of obstacles that could be pressuring or hindering your team in any number of ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The benefit of waiting is that the scene you are wrapping up could be very light on obstacles and offer a few turns of low or zero damage where you could draw 2 cards into hands with 3 or less cards and potentially heal allies, buy cards (although arguably not a benefit since you buy cards at the end of the scene), etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lean toward ending the scene as soon as possible as the unpredictability of the crossfire puts me on edge, but I find I'm very close to being on the fence when tempted with giving my hand an extra two cards.  Because cards are drawn after one's turn, there is very &lt;strong&gt;little&lt;/strong&gt; unknown when the obstacles are revealed, so it seems pretty important to have at least 3-5 cards in your hand if possible when the obstacles are drawn. The greatest likelihood, I'm thinking, is that this is simply best a judgement call given the state of people's hand sizes and health levels when the end of a scene is visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T02:25:08.290" Title="In the first mission Crossfire, is it better to end the scene just before the starting player takes his turn?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27063" CreationDate="2015-09-30T19:03:44.123" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, it would have been resulting had it criticized the opening lead. As @PieterGeerkens noted, the article neither terms the lead an error nor implies it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Thanks, @Aryabhata, for posting a link to the actual column.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastEditorUserId="4901" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T23:38:18.813" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T23:38:18.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27096" CreationDate="2015-10-01T00:07:59.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you're reading this too literally.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&quot;Once runners have earned Karma...&quot; is just an answer to &quot;When do I start buying upgrades, in general?&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each runner, their earned Karma is a permanent value.&#xA;If you earn 3 Karma from completing a mission, that's 3 Karma that this runner will always have. This runner &quot;has earned karma&quot;, now and forevermore.&#xA;Each runner is always &quot;worth&quot; as much karma as he has ever earned.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between missions, each runner can &quot;spend&quot; their karma to buy or swap abilities on their sheet (by the costing rules).  &lt;em&gt;(the term &quot;spend&quot; isn't exactly right either; your karma is just your maximum capacity for upgrades, but it never goes away)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Even if they didn't gain any new karma on that specific mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T00:07:59.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27097" CreationDate="2015-10-01T02:25:08.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being able to start the next set of obstacles without having to deal with a new crossfire card can be an advantage. Not to mention the fact that having a few extra turns to work on them might allow you to eliminate them with minimal crossfire cards going into the discard pile which will help you in the long run as you will get fewer hard obstacles to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T02:25:08.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27092" CreationDate="2015-10-01T05:35:47.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of no rules for &lt;em&gt;Party Bridge&lt;/em&gt; named as such, but there are other  scoring table besides standard &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Laws-of-Rubber-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Contract Rubber Bridge&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;; it is possible that your friends are referring to what is best known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/learn_page/how-to-play-bridge/how-to-keep-score/chicago/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chicago Scoring&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Also known as &lt;em&gt;Four-Deal Bridge&lt;/em&gt;, Chicago scoring frequently, though not always, omits scoring points for Honours; I played it both ways while learning the game many years ago.  To the best of my knowledge the rules for scoring Honours are always only &lt;strong&gt;On&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Off&lt;/strong&gt; - I know of no variations beside making it optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chicago Scoring puts more points in play per hand than Rubber Bridge scoring, and is consequently also frequently preferred for high-level money games - the greater number of points in play further reduces the luck element over a session, and more easily accommodates rotating a fifth or sixth person in and out of a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This same dynamic is valuable in a &lt;em&gt;party&lt;/em&gt; setting, because each table should finish a four-deal round in under 30 minutes. Players can then socialize for a few minutes before receiving their new seating assignment, typically determined either &lt;em&gt;round-robin&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;progressive&lt;/em&gt;. A 6-round session should easily play in under 4 hours while still allowing frequent opportunities for socializing, or even in close to 3 hours for a more serious-minded group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if you attempt to break in to a new money game and find Rubber Bridge scoring being proposed, remember the old Poker adage - if you don't know who the sucker is, it's probably you. Amateur players will sacrifice far too often and frequently to &lt;em&gt;save the rubber&lt;/em&gt;, and good players will rapidly fleece any person or partnership that exhibits this behaviour. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T05:55:09.483" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T05:55:09.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27103" CreationDate="2015-10-01T10:49:24.903" Score="21" ViewCount="6537" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why are the cards called so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any plausible reasons as why they are included in the game of monopoly?  Does their naming have anything to do with real-world namings?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13934" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2019-12-23T10:53:50.503" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T10:53:50.503" Title="What are the reasons behind naming the &quot;community chest&quot; and &quot;chance&quot; cards in Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27102" CreationDate="2015-10-01T13:25:36.557" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Community Chest is named from the original Atlantic City version of Monopoly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Atlantic City, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.co.uk/search?num=40&amp;amp;safe=active&amp;amp;q=atlantic+city+community+chest&amp;amp;oq=atlantic+city+community+chest&amp;amp;gs_l=serp.3...263563.268328.0.268477.29.17.0.0.0.0.329.1398.0j1j1j3.5.0....0...1c.1.64.serp..24.5.1398._6CVEgraqlU&quot;&gt;Community Chest&lt;/a&gt; was a welfare organisation.  Therefore, &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Community_Chest&quot;&gt;Community Chest&lt;/a&gt; cards are more likely than not to give money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopoly.wikia.com/wiki/Chance&quot;&gt;Chance&lt;/a&gt; cards are more likely to move you to a random 'chance' location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11571" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T13:25:36.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27104" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27105" CreationDate="2015-10-01T13:46:35.040" Score="7" ViewCount="8384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm quite new to playing MtG, and had a question about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bErebos%2c%20God%20of%20the%20Dead%5d&quot;&gt;Erebos, God of the Dead&lt;/a&gt;. It needs five devotion (5 black mana symbols on permanents on your field) to be a creature. Does the 1 black mana symbol on that card count toward my devotion to black? My friends and I were unsure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13814" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T02:39:31.450" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:39:31.450" Title="Does a God's own mana cost count towards its own devotion?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27104" CreationDate="2015-10-01T13:52:13.647" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote one of the rulings on Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a God enters the battlefield, your devotion to its color (including&#xA;  the mana symbols in the mana cost of the God itself) will determine if&#xA;  a creature entered the battlefield or not, for abilities that trigger&#xA;  whenever a creature enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.5. A player’s devotion to [color] is equal to the number of mana symbols of that color among the mana costs of permanents that player&#xA;  controls. A player’s devotion to [color 1] and [color 2] is equal to&#xA;  the number of mana symbols among the mana costs of permanents that&#xA;  player controls that are [color 1], [color 2], or both colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the god is a permenant, it's mana symbols in it's casting cost count towards your devotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T13:52:13.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27104" CreationDate="2015-10-01T13:58:45.677" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Erebos%2C%20God%20of%20the%20Dead&quot;&gt;Erebos, God of the Dead&lt;/a&gt;, or any other card, is on the battlefield, it counts towards your devotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.5. A player’s devotion to [color] is equal to the number of mana symbols of that color among the mana costs of permanents that player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T14:06:33.737" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T14:06:33.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27093" CreationDate="2015-10-01T15:51:04.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state - &quot;players should push the disc by hand in the opposite direction of the direction the previous disc moved&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shouldn't be to hard to know which way it previously went as it only happened a moment ago.  Also the rules do state that the river is &quot;usually alternating, but not always&quot;.  If a group really can't remember which way the river just went then just randomly decide the next direction.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find if a player gently holds the board down either side of where the board fold is and the river splits that prevents the river discs from getting jammed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use the fact the discs fall at the bottom of the river and leave a leave a disc there as a reminder which fell last. there are 3 spare discs so one pile always has 2 and the other always has one meaning the river should fall there next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T14:43:23.083" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T14:43:23.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27110" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:08:18.410" Score="2" ViewCount="24638" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just thought about the fact that you can deal as much damage to one creature when multiple blocked&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say I have an 8/8 with trample&#xA;I attack with it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im blocked by a 1/1 a 2/2 and a 3/3&#xA;(Maybe they wanted to stop 6 of the 8 damage but don't have the creatures to kill my 8/8 or maybe they have a card to play or something, thats not really important but maybe thats why they multi blocked without enough to kill the 8/8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I assign 8 damage to the 1/1 and 0 to the 2/2 and 3/3?&#xA;If so, would the trample damage go to the player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:47:54.730" Title="Multiple blockers and trample" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27108" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:10:15.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you assign all 8 damage to the 1/1, then the trample creature deals 8 damage to the 1/1. It deals no damage to the player because you did not assign any damage to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage is assigned during the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_damage_step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/a&gt;, and rule 510.1c describes how attacking creatures deal damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature. &lt;strong&gt;If two or more creatures are blocking it, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocked creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that’s blocking it unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage.&lt;/strong&gt; When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. &lt;strong&gt;An amount of damage that’s greater than a creature’s lethal damage may be assigned to it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That process is modified/extended by the rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Trample&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trample&lt;/a&gt;. Rule 702.19b says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it.&lt;/em&gt; Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking.&lt;/strong&gt; When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. The attacking creature’s controller need not assign lethal damage to all those blocking creatures but in that case can’t assign any damage to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-01T16:47:54.730" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:47:54.730" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27108" CreationDate="2015-10-01T16:21:25.733" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to assign lethal combat damage to all blocking creatures before you can assign any to the player.  From the rules (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking&#xA;  creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned&#xA;  as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the&#xA;  player or planeswalker the creature is attacking. When checking for&#xA;  assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the&#xA;  creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during&#xA;  the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that&#xA;  might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. &lt;strong&gt;The attacking&#xA;  creature’s controller need not assign lethal damage to all those&#xA;  blocking creatures but in that case can’t assign any damage to the&#xA;  player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer: no, you can't assign 0 to the 2/2 and the 3/3 and still hit the defending player.  You have to assign enough damage to all the blockers to otherwise kill them before you can assign any leftover damage to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-10-01T16:21:25.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4320" CreationDate="2015-10-02T02:54:56.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am having the same trouble.I have purchase 20 packs of plane backed playing cards with the idea of running them through my Canon printer. Alas the ink from the printer does not adhere to the plastic coating on the card. The only ink that I can recommend to stick to the plastic coating is  a Nikko Oil Marker 1700 texter pen that you can buy on ebay about $7.00. The only problem then is that you have to carefully write on each individual card by hand. The only other alternative I fear is to get the cards professionally printed at great expense. Goodluck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13941" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T02:54:56.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T04:46:44.087" Score="1" ViewCount="1454" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent, or anything else, makes me sacrifice a creature, and I have a Blood Host or something similar, can I choose to sacrifice the creature with the Blood Host?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13942" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T06:06:12.253" Title="Can you choose how to sacrifice a creature if you are forced to?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-10-02T13:02:09.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27113" CreationDate="2015-10-02T05:43:27.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;h3&gt;As a general rule - No.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to your opponent forcing a sacrifice, you can trigger your Blood Host's ability to the top of the stack.  This will then sacrifice your creature for the Blood Host, and then any other abilities remaining on the stack will resolve.  If this is the only creature that you have on the table, then the original sacrifice effect will be unresolved, exactly as if you were unable to sacrifice at the time the spell was cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have multiple other creatures on the field (As would be the case with your Blood Host being on the battlefield to begin with), you would have to chose another sacrifice for the initial effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13801" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T06:06:12.253" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27118" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:53:13.313" Score="9" ViewCount="1704" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397614&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;all creatures lose all abilities and have base power and toughness 1/1&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394632&quot;&gt;Myth Realized&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment that can become a creature with P/T equal to the number of lore counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking that due to the timestamp ordering if Myth Realized becomes a creature after Humility was cast that Myth Realized would be x/x and not 1/1, where x is the number of lore counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T15:25:55.423" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T17:44:03.457" Title="Will Myth Realized still become an X/X when Humility's in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39704" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:58:14.613" Score="8" ViewCount="7196" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397614&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;all creatures lose all abilities and have base power and toughness 1/1&quot; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401871&quot;&gt;Endless One&lt;/a&gt; comes into play with X +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/588473-how-to-understand-humility-once-and-for-all?comment=3&quot;&gt;a comment in &lt;em&gt;How to understand Humility once and for all&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, triggered abilities don't get triggered with Humility, but I'm thinking Endless One's ETB &quot;ability&quot; doesn't count because it's not a triggered ability? Because it doesn't say &quot;when it enters the battlefield X +1/+1 counters are placed on it&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6542" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T15:26:56.347" LastActivityDate="2019-09-05T10:00:33.397" Title="Will Endless One still enter with X +1/+1 counters while Humility's in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27116" CreationDate="2015-10-02T14:59:59.323" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, Myth Realized will be a creature with power and toughness equal to the number of lore counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because both its own ability and Humility's apply in Layer 7b (613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied. Effects that refer to the base power and/or toughness of a creature apply in this layer.) Since they are in the same layer and neither ability depends on the other you use timestamps (613.3. Within layer 7, apply effects in a series of sublayers in the order described below. Within each sublayer, apply effects in timestamp order.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if Myth realized is already a creature when Humility is played it will become a 1/1 until the end of turn, but the next time it is activated it will be back to normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Myth Realized's ability is not a Characteristic-Defining Ability which would be applied in layer 7a and then get overwritten because cause CDAs require that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;604.3a A static ability is a characteristic-defining ability if it meets the following criteria: ... (2) it is printed on the card it affects, it was granted to the token it affects by the effect that created the token, or it was acquired by the object it affects as the result of a copy effect or text-changing effect;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the Gatherer Rulings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Activating the ability that turns Myth Realized into a creature while it’s already a creature will override any effects that set its power or toughness to a specific value. Effects that modify power or toughness without directly setting them to a specific value will continue to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would not be possible if its ability were a CDA&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T17:44:03.457" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T17:44:03.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27117" CreationDate="2015-10-02T15:13:54.120" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are right that it doesn't affect it because of the below rule, it will get it's counters and it is indeed not a triggered ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.12. Some replacement effects modify how a permanent enters the battlefield. (See rules 614.1c–d.) Such effects may come from the permanent itself if they affect only that permanent (as opposed to a general subset of permanents that includes it). They may also come from other sources. To determine which replacement effects apply and how they apply, check the characteristics of the permanent as it would exist on the battlefield, taking into account replacement effects that have already modified how it enters the battlefield (see rule 616.1), continuous effects generated by the resolution of spells or abilities that changed the permanent’s characteristics on the stack (see rule 400.7a), and continuous effects from the permanent’s own static abilities, but &lt;strong&gt;ignoring continuous effects from any other source that would affect it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T15:13:54.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27121" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-02T15:27:08.817" Score="2" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Runners are not allowed to show other runners what cards they have in their hand, but they can verbally discuss anything they like in order to form an effective plan as a team. To ensure a fun play experience for everyone, try to respect the other runners’ wishes about the level of advice they wish to receive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds like the usual rule given in ally forming games where you can help but may deceive people as well (like settlers), the rule being there to protect people from insisting you ‘prove’ your claim.  I find it odd here as an explicit rule in a fully cooperative game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, would the fact that this really doesn't prevent players from simply telling each other what they have mean that it's viable as a game where one player plays many runners (instead of the usual player playing one runner and having extra roles)?  This could be 2 players playing 4 runners or 1 player playing 4 runners, or even, for instance, 1 player playing 3 runners where one has an extra role.  This question is of course not so much asking whether it &quot;can be played&quot; but more whether it is effectively the same as the normal game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T15:27:08.817" Title="Is play effectively the same with 1 player, multiple runners?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27122" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27124" CreationDate="2015-10-02T16:07:27.850" Score="3" ViewCount="1428" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is possible, but I am asking for confirmation:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can you activate &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sensei%27s%20divining%20top&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensei's Divining Top&lt;/a&gt;'s first ability, and then, in response, activate the second ability, allowing you to draw a card, put SDT on top of your library, and then look at the top three cards on your library and put them back in any order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T19:27:09.893" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T19:27:09.893" Title="Stacking Sensei's Divining Top Abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27122" CreationDate="2015-10-02T16:15:56.357" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do exactly what you describe. You can activate Top's first ability, then, while that ability is on the stack, activate its second ability. Then the second ability will resolve, and you will draw a card, then put Top on top of your library. Finally, the first ability will resolve, and you will look at and reorder the top three cards of your library, including the Top you just put there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T16:15:56.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3847" CreationDate="2015-10-02T19:57:24.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you might be on to something here. I have often felt that the Germans were given the shaft on the game. There is no accounting for the effectiveness of the Uboats at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you would need both the fix in the North Atlantic and the Mediterranean in order to give this a more balanced game. In the past, I have tried to just defend one area and almost abandon the other in order to consolidate my forces and hope my opponent is unable to break through. The problem with that strategy is you have to relay on a weak opponent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13948" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T19:57:24.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26946" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:00:38.623" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the deluxe addition and am very glad I bought it. The board gives a nice way to track the game and can easily be converted if you are going to use the optional Supermuchkin rules (advance to level 20 to win). Yes it can be done with paper and dice but I have kids and the board makes it easier for everyone to use. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13948" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:00:38.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11175" CreationDate="2015-10-02T20:03:09.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple other cards that don't leave depending on the sets you have. Those cards spell out clearly that they don't leave upon death. The ally Laddie the dog is one that comes to my mind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13948" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T20:03:09.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27132" CreationDate="2015-10-02T21:49:02.383" Score="3" ViewCount="2781" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=402083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Undergrowth Champion&lt;/a&gt; is a 2/2 creature with an ability that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If damage would be dealt to Undergrowth Champion while it has a +1/+1 counter on it, prevent that damage and remove a +1/+1 counter from Undergrowth Champion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Undergrowth Champion had 1 counter on it (making it a 3/3) and was in combat with another 3/3, how much damage would Undergrowth Champion deal?  Would the counter being removed cause Undergrowth Champion to deal 2 damage?  Or would the removal of the counter take place after damage amounts have been assigned?  Would the opposing 3/3 live or die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-10-02T22:50:44.313" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T15:40:44.577" Title="How does Combat Damage Work with Undergrowth Champion?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27128" CreationDate="2015-10-02T22:03:06.420" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Barring any other ability considerations that alter timing (like First Strike), combat damage is applied simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Champion would deal 3 damage to it's opponent.  The Champion would receive 3 damage from the opponent, which it is shielded from by the prevention effect, then the counter is removed.  It looks like this falls under the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;615.5. Some prevention effects also include an additional effect, which may refer to the amount of damage that was prevented. The prevention takes place at the time the original event would have happened; the rest of the effect takes place immediately afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T14:20:45.600" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T14:20:45.600" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27128" CreationDate="2015-10-02T22:19:28.230" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Damage is &lt;strong&gt;assigned&lt;/strong&gt; first, per rule 510.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1. First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage is &lt;strong&gt;dealt&lt;/strong&gt; second, per rule 510.2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Champion has a counter on it when damage is assigned, it assigns 3 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-10-02T22:19:28.230" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27128" CreationDate="2015-10-02T22:57:51.747" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;UC will deal three damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is that replacement and prevention effects change what you &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; perform. Necessarily, this happens before the replaced instructions are performed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The event being replaced is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the above means the following before prevention effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Simultaneously, UC deals 3 damage to the 3/3, and the 3/3 deals 3 damage to the UC.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there's a prevention effect affecting the second half. Even if we na&amp;iuml;vely apply apply the effect, the answer is clear&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Simultaneously, UC deals 3 damage to the 3/3, and remove a +1/+1 counter from UC.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as per 615.5, the additional part of the prevention effect is actually delayed, so we actually get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;UC deals 3 damage to the 3/3, and then remove a +1/+1 counter from UC.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, it's clear it does three damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;615.5. Some prevention effects also include an additional effect, which may refer to the amount of damage that was prevented. The prevention takes place at the time the original event would have happened; the rest of the effect takes place immediately afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-10-05T15:40:44.577" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T15:40:44.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27134" CreationDate="2015-10-03T00:52:02.623" Score="6" ViewCount="5974" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature has equipment attached, what happens to the equipment if this creature is returned to the owner's hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to the owner's hand as well?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to the graveyard?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remain on the battlefield?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastEditorUserId="3546" LastEditDate="2015-10-03T00:59:17.807" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T01:29:47.557" Title="Creature with equipment attached is returned to owner's hand" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27133" CreationDate="2015-10-03T01:29:47.557" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will remain on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;301.5c&lt;/strong&gt; ... An Equipment that equips an illegal or nonexistent permanent becomes unattached from that permanent but remains on the battlefield. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T01:29:47.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26856" CreationDate="2015-10-03T04:30:07.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a similar game in Japan that goes by the name &lt;em&gt;daifugo&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two main differences versus your description are that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;people cannot jump in randomly (proceeds clockwise unless people pass because they cannot play).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;playing four cards of a kind causes a reversal of the winning hands (from 3 up to A, 2 becomes from 2, A up to 3).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separately, there are lots of variants. &#xA;In &lt;em&gt;daifugo&lt;/em&gt;, 8s often have a special meaning of leading to a stop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13951" LastActivityDate="2015-10-03T04:30:07.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27138" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T12:26:35.280" Score="5" ViewCount="4399" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when a player knocks and misreads their hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hand recently came up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I announced a knock but mistakenly included a card as deadwood that could have been played. If the card (6c) had been included with my 7c8c9c trick my opponent would have been able to play his 4c5c and undercut me. I obviously made a mistake and should have included the 6c. Should I be forced to correctly play the 6c and allow him to play his cards, or should my announced play stand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13955" LastActivityDate="2020-05-15T12:43:56.700" Title="Misreading your hand when knocking in Gin" Tags="|gin-rummy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29280" CreationDate="2015-10-04T13:00:02.047" Score="3" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Warhammer Fantasy characters could join units to move and fight alongside them. In Age of Sigmar characters have different Warscrolls and there don't appear to be any obvious rules to allow them to do so. Is it possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I ask is largely to do with battleshock, obviously if a character is part of a unit suffering battleshock then they have a higher bravery value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in Age of Sigmar can characters join units?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastEditorUserId="6161" LastEditDate="2015-10-04T15:38:12.323" LastActivityDate="2017-02-01T09:07:47.427" Title="Can characters join units?" Tags="|age-of-sigmar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T19:06:42.923" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the house card &quot;Robb Stark&quot; retreat the losers troops to a place that is not adjacent to the losers troops? Can he move the routing troops back two countries or past a river/ocean? In other words does the rule for retreating to an adjacent area still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13964" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T08:03:00.800" Title="Robb Stark house card. Need some help understanding what it can do" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27141" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-04T20:59:04.660" Score="12" ViewCount="2120" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is the original Pandemic set for up to 4 players when there are 5 role cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13965" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T06:20:13.463" Title="Number of Pandemic players?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27141" CreationDate="2015-10-04T21:16:09.190" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the game is started the roles are shuffled together and each player is dealt a random role. Having more roles then players allows for some greater variations in the game as you will not always get the same roles in every game which can change how you play the game. You can see in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; how it deals with the extra roles. Also it should be noted that in the current edition there are 7 roles for 4 players in the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-10-04T21:16:09.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27141" CreationDate="2015-10-05T06:20:13.463" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;After you play the game a number of times, you'll notice that the combination of roles affects the flow of the game. The 5th role increases replay value and prevents the game from becoming too repetitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pandemic has expansions, however, which allows for more players. One such expansion, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Pandemic: On the Brink&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, has 5 players and includes 7 new role cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base game and subsequent expansions rely on additional role cards -- as well as other added game mechanics -- to keep the game interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T06:20:13.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27140" CreationDate="2015-10-05T08:03:00.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normal retreat. No jumping rivers, no going two countries. Can use ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optimal usage : Attack a big force with Robb to win, retreat them somewhere where you can attack them with one footman and slay the lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6767" LastActivityDate="2015-10-05T08:03:00.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27138" CreationDate="2015-10-05T19:26:39.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer assumes Pagat rules. As pointed out by a commentor, other rules sources may disagree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The announced play is illegal, and a legal play should be made instead. Here is what the rules from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/rummy/ginrummy.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pagat.com&lt;/a&gt; have to say about Knocking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... This is done by discarding one card face down on the discard pile and exposing your whole hand, arranging it &lt;strong&gt;as far as possible&lt;/strong&gt; into sets (groups of equal cards) and runs (sequences). ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to that rule, you must arrange the cards into sets and runs as far as possible. Since it is possible to include 6c in a run of 7c8c9c, you must.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Gin Rummy Association developed &lt;a href=&quot;http://ginrummytournaments.com/pdfs/Rules_2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a set of tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; to supplement the regular rules. If you were playing in a tournament and had already recorded the score for the hand, then you would be stuck with your mistake, per rule 17:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a count has been AGREED TO BY THE PLAYERS AND RECORDED BY THE&#xA;  SCORE KEEPER, the hand stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2019-07-19T14:02:18.220" LastActivityDate="2019-07-19T14:02:18.220" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27148" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:27:28.110" Score="8" ViewCount="20883" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I am wanting to make token copies of a legendary creature such as Progenitus using something like Progenitor Mimic. I know this is illegal by itself, but does there exist a card that would allow this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13931" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:46:20.960" Title="Is there a card that cancels the Legendary Rule?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27147" CreationDate="2015-10-06T00:33:13.050" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card you are looking for is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Gallery&quot;&gt;Mirror Gallery&lt;/a&gt;, which is an artifact with the text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;legend rule&amp;quot; doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lazav%2C%20Dimir%20Mastermind&quot;&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sakashima%20the%20Impostor&quot;&gt;Sakashima the Impostor&lt;/a&gt; become copies of other creatures, but they keep their own names, so they can copy other legendary creatures without dying due to the legend rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-06T00:46:20.960" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T00:46:20.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27153" CreationDate="2015-10-06T11:52:57.420" Score="8" ViewCount="1796" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shambling%20Vent&quot;&gt;Shambling Vent&lt;/a&gt; and then cast a spell with Awaken 3, targeting the Vent. The Shambling Vent becomes a 0/0 Land Creature - Elemental with 3 +1/+1 counters on it, no problem there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then activate Shambling Vent's second ability, turning it into a 2/3 white and black Land Creature - Elemental with lifelink and 3 +1/+1 counters on it. I know that the new P/T setting ability overwrites the first so I effectively have a 5/6 Land Creature, still no problems here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I'm not sure what happens when the turn ends and Shambling Vent's ability wears off. Does it go back to being a 0/0 elemental or does it stop being a creature entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7888" LastActivityDate="2017-12-01T16:55:21.023" Title="If I activate Shambling Vent's ability after it has been 'awakened', what happens at the end of the turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13116" CreationDate="2015-10-06T12:09:30.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do agree 2 players is a lot easy to handle and get round to doubling up moves (special abilite) quicker. The medic and dispatcher is actually a very fast combination and once one virus is eradicated the game  becomes much easier and at a very fast pace as the epidemic (stage 3) is not as effective by just shuffling the discard infection card back on top. But the issue with 2 players is having to discard cards that you may need early before finding cure (7 card limit). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13977" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T12:09:30.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27153" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27150" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:24:36.043" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both Awaken and Vent's ability generate a continuous effect that applies changes in layers 4 and 7b – type and power/toughness accordingly (also some other layers which do not intersect).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1d Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object’s card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.3b Layer 7b: Effects that set power and/or toughness to a specific number or value are applied. Effects that refer to the base power and/or toughness of a creature apply in this layer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Awaken's effect is not &amp;quot;overwritten&amp;quot; by Vent's ability. Rather, Vent's ability is applied &amp;quot;over&amp;quot; it and takes precedence due to being more recent (timestamp rule).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.6. Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, after Shambling Vent's ability wears off it will go back to being a 0/0 Land Creature - Elemental due to Awaken's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T13:24:36.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27154" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27155" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:40:09.020" Score="15" ViewCount="26801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game earlier and my opponent had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Drana%2C%20Liberator%20of%20Malakir&quot;&gt;Drana, Liberator of Malakir&lt;/a&gt; that was a 4/3 and wanted to use a sorcery to fight &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401936&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kozilek's Channeler&lt;/a&gt; that was a 4/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We were wondering if the Channeler would die first because of First Strike? Or would it not be counted as it wasn't combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T19:43:10.227" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:43:10.227" Title="Fight and first strike" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27154" CreationDate="2015-10-06T13:42:11.543" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;First Strike does not apply because it isn't combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10d&lt;/strong&gt; The damage dealt when a creature fights isn’t combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.7a&lt;/strong&gt; First strike is a static ability that modifies the rules for the combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T13:42:11.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4364" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:37:12.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bullet: one minute per player for all moves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blitz: 5 minutes per player for all moves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quickplay: 20, 30 or 40 minutes per player for all moves&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick tournament: 1 hour 30 mins to reach move 35, then 30 mins to finish (per player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FIDE tournament: 1 hour 30 minutes to reach move 40, then 30 mins to finish, plus 30 seconds per move (per player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Slow tournament: 2 hours to reach move 40, then one extra hour to reach move 60, then 40 mins to finish (per player)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lightning: 10 seconds per move&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hourglass: 1 to 2 mins each to start with. the time you lose is added to the opponent's clock, and vice versa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fischer delay: 5 seconds (usually, can be less) are added to your clock after every move&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13982" LastActivityDate="2015-10-06T15:37:12.260" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22484" CreationDate="2015-10-06T15:48:07.287" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tainted%20Remedy&quot;&gt;Tainted Remedy&lt;/a&gt;: if an opponent would gain life, that player loses that much life instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13983" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T13:04:56.187" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T13:04:56.187" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25166" CreationDate="2015-10-06T16:56:53.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some strategies that can make you human group win. Is hard to fight the cylons in the board game (exactly like the TV show), but not impossible, even without changing the resources markers to a easier scenario. Here some of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Have a balanced team, including the Support character:&lt;/strong&gt; try to establish a balanced team, considering the number of players. One Political Leader in the group should be enough. Also, consider always having the Support character in the party. I often play with the Chief and his ability to make an additional Action when using a Repair card is very useful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the Quorum Cards:&lt;/strong&gt; the Colonial One and the Quorum Cards seems to be negligencied in the game, but the Quorum Cards can recover your Morale and enable you to do a lot of things, like passing the Destination choice to another player than the Admiral, send people to Brig without skill check and see another player Loyalty Card. In our group, the President usually stays in the Colonial One President´s Office location drawing Quorum Cards, keeping his hand full of it to be used when necessary.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pay attention to the skill cards played:&lt;/strong&gt; in a skill check, only two cards from the Destiny Deck are used. So, if you have more than 2 negative skill cards in a check, you may have a Cylon. Watching the skill set of every character in the game can give you a clue if a Cylon is there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use skill cards abilities:&lt;/strong&gt; Investigative Committee will force Cylons to help in skill checks. Scientific Research makes all the Engineering Cards counts as positive (did I said to have Tyrol in the game?). Strategic Planning is good for die roll. And so on. Remember to use the abilites of the skill cards, not only using them as numbers to skill checks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Send the Cylons to the Brig:&lt;/strong&gt; good Cylon is a Brig Cylon. There, they can´t do much harm as they can only use one skill card in the skill checks and his only chance to do something more is revealing themselves. And, if they reveal themselves, they cannot use the &lt;em&gt;I´m a Cylon Loyalty Card&lt;/em&gt; ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use the &lt;em&gt;once-per-game&lt;/em&gt; abilities:&lt;/strong&gt; make use of the once-per-game abilities of your characters, specially when you are in the final jumps to Earth. Adama ability to recover all the cards of a skill check in his hand is very tricky.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Avoid to lose Population:&lt;/strong&gt; this is &lt;em&gt;the&lt;/em&gt; trick. You &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; lose resources through the game, but avoid losing Population is a good strategy. Population can be risked to jump before you reach the Auto-Jump, emptying the table and speeding up the travel to Earth.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastEditorUserId="13463" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T15:46:37.867" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T15:46:37.867" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27160" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27162" CreationDate="2015-10-07T12:40:23.100" Score="10" ViewCount="1401" Body="&lt;p&gt;When discussing an answer that I provided in another question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25166/battlestar-galactica-how-to-balance-core-game/27159#27159&quot;&gt;Battlestar Galactica: How to balance core game&lt;/a&gt;), the question arose of whether it is mandatory to play at least one card in skill checks. The rule book from the base game says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Starting with the player that is Play Skills: to the left of the current player (and ending with the current player), each player may play &lt;strong&gt;any number&lt;/strong&gt; of Skill Cards from his hand facedown to the common pile.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what does &quot;any number&quot; in this context mean? I assume that 0 would not be &quot;any number&quot;, since playing 0 cards is not playing any card at all. I saw in this question (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2978/strategy-for-succeeding-at-crisis-skill-checks&quot;&gt;Strategy for succeeding at Crisis skill checks&lt;/a&gt;) that people generally assume that 0 cards can be played, but I think there is some flaw in the statement that makes it dubious. In the Revelead Cylon case, the book is very clear and states that a Revelead can opt for not playing cards in skill checks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, what is the rule for human players? Must them play at least one card or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T15:08:50.487" Title="Is mandatory to play at least one skill card in skill checks?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27160" CreationDate="2015-10-07T13:38:22.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, it's known that someone has only &quot;negative&quot; colours. Forcing then to play makes no sense. We've never forbidden zero cards in the above scenario or any other, and this is supported by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starting with the player that is Play Skills: to the left of the current player (and ending with the current player), each player &lt;strong&gt;may play&lt;/strong&gt; any number of Skill Cards from his hand facedown to the common pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The words emphasized indicate the user is not obligated to play any cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T19:32:53.637" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T19:32:53.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27160" CreationDate="2015-10-07T13:58:57.147" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base rules, page 17, has an &quot;Example of a Skill Check&quot; (emphasis added):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The player to the current player’s left plays two Skill Cards into the pile. The next player &lt;strong&gt;decides not to play any cards&lt;/strong&gt;, and finally, the current player plays a single card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think they would have included this if a person had to play a skill card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="334" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T13:58:57.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27163" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-07T19:42:10.377" Score="4" ViewCount="485" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3qXRl.png&quot; alt=&quot;1]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can black win here with or without this move? Or is in every way dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13991" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T21:15:49.150" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T20:25:35.443" Title="Can black win in this Go situation?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27164" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27165" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:34:03.933" Score="1" ViewCount="376" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say I've ciphered &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366324&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paranoid Delusions&lt;/a&gt; on a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401950&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mist Intruder&lt;/a&gt; and successfully deal combat damage to a player, which card would get exiled and which go to the graveyard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the first card on the players library get exiled and the next three go into a graveyard? Or the other way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11600" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T23:08:56.100" Title="How does Paranoid Delusions work with Ingest" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27164" CreationDate="2015-10-07T21:43:37.853" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose which happens first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you cipher Paranoid Delusions on the Mist Intruder, there are two relevant triggered abilities: Mist Intruder's Ingest ability, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Mist Intruder deals combat damage to a player, that player exiles the top card of his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the cipher triggered ability, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever [Mist Intruder] deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of [Paranoid Delusions] without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since those both trigger on dealing combat damage to a player, they both trigger at the same time. Specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_damage_step&quot;&gt;rule 510.3&lt;/a&gt; says that the third step of the Combat Damage Step is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot;&gt;rule 603.3b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since both of those triggered at the same time, you put them on the stack in any order you choose. Then they resolve in the reverse of that order (since the one you put on the stack last is on top).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-07T23:08:56.100" LastActivityDate="2015-10-07T23:08:56.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26904" CreationDate="2015-10-08T13:01:45.787" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no official ruling on combining the Jungle hex with Cities &amp;amp; Knights, but there are documented suggestions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catanmaps.com/catan-jungle-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This site&lt;/a&gt; has two suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two Discovery Tokens may be traded in for one Resource or Commodity card of your choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three Discovery Tokens and one Commodity Card may be traded in for one Progress Card of that color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T13:01:45.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="927" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:15:45.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no way to break the game by combining expansions, so feel free to combine any and all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/142057/carcassonne-big-box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Box versions&lt;/a&gt; (there are five total) of Carcassonne come with extra rules just to explain the interactions between each expansion contained within. There's even a popular name for combining all expansions in one game: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1162178/mega-carcassonne&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mega-Carcassonne&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To accommodate for all these expansions in a single Mega-game, the player base from BoardGameGeek has assembled all BigBox rules, as well as any official publications by Hans im Glueck and Rio Grande games into a single rulebook, called the &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Carcassonne Standard Complete Annotated Rules&lt;/a&gt;. Be warned, it's currently at a staggering 339 pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T18:15:45.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27169" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:26:48.610" Score="3" ViewCount="1397" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question came up in my game group.  A player had a completed plot quest that gave him 2 victory points every time he played an intrigue card.  Is it possible to play an intrigue card and not resolve the action (either because he can't or doesn't want to) just to earn the victory point bonus?  This doesn't seem right to me, but I'm looking for supporting rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7023" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T19:18:37.830" Title="Do intrigue cards have to be resolved?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27168" CreationDate="2015-10-08T18:34:23.717" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you always have to resolve the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say that when you play an intrigue card, you follow its instructions, and none of the intrigue cards have instructions that say &quot;if you feel like it, do X&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play Intrigue Card: By assigning an Agent to one of the action&#xA;  spaces on Waterdeep Harbor, you play a single Intrigue card from&#xA;  your hand. If you have no Intrigue cards, you cannot assign an&#xA;  Agent to Waterdeep Harbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When you play an Intrigue card, you follow its instructions&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  immediately. Its effect takes place just once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as GendoIkari pointed out in the comments, if he actually can't follow some part of the instructions, he would do as much as possible. He'd still be resolving the card, it's just that some instructions are impossible to follow so they don't happen. I don't think there's anything in the rules about this, but if the rules wanted you to ignore the whole card just because you couldn't do part of it, they'd presumably say so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: your instinct is right; ignoring what cards say in games is pretty much always wrong. If a game has an object (a card, tile, board space, or anything) with instructions printed on it, and you play/use that object, you follow the instructions (insofar as you can). If the game doesn't want you to always follow the instructions, it'll say so in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T20:12:18.977" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T20:12:18.977" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27170" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:40:21.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Elixir&lt;/em&gt; is a card game in which players collect ingredient cards to cast spells. The French language version was first published in 1997 by Asomodee and the English language version was first published in 2000 by Mayfair Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:32.123" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:32.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27171" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-08T20:40:21.463" Score="0" Body="A card game in which players collect ingredient cards to cast spells." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:29.423" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:29.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:01:46.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a good try for Black, because it is a &quot;net&quot; play. But it doesn't quite work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White descends, one spot right of the &quot;marked stone. Black &quot;fills&quot; below. White cuts to the southeast, atariing two Black stones, Black escapes. White cuts again south of the marked stone, atariing one Black stone, Black escapes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White's next move to the left is an atari on the marked stone, and the following move connects to the White stones to the left, while trapping five Black stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T21:01:46.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27173" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:08:30.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chitin: I&lt;/em&gt; is a miniatures wargame involving insects, and part of the planned Hymenoptera system that never materialized. It was first published 1977 by Metagaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:20.457" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:20.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27174" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:08:30.867" Score="0" Body="A miniatures wargame involving insects, and part of the planned Hymenoptera system" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:13.887" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:13.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27175" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:13:56.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Afrika Korps&lt;/em&gt; is a wargame by Avalon Hill about Rommel's battles in World War II. It was first published in 1964.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:06.140" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:06.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27176" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:13:56.160" Score="0" Body="A wargame by Avalon Hill about Rommel's battles in World War II." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:23.450" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:23.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27177" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:25:44.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trivial Pursuit&lt;/em&gt; is a trivia game where players respond to questions in six categories. It was first published in 1981 by Parker Bros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:26.423" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:26.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27178" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:25:44.160" Score="0" Body="A trivia game where players respond to questions in six categories." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-10-08T23:08:17.440" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T23:08:17.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-10-08T21:45:08.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, I don't think starting with short tickets is an automatic loss. In fact, I've been very successful with shorter tickets. When I start with short tickets, I try to complete them fairly quickly, but keeping an eye on the long routes on the board. Completing a 6-long route gives you 15 points. Your routes do not need to connect to each other, so just going around gobbling up the longer routes is a viable strategy, especially since it will be fairly disruptive to the other players. In addition, the 1910 expansion gives 15 points to the player with the most tickets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastActivityDate="2015-10-08T21:45:08.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27181" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27182" CreationDate="2015-10-09T02:05:10.097" Score="4" ViewCount="1723" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Blackjack, if the dealer's initial draw reveals an Ace, players are allowed to &quot;insure&quot; against a dealer having a natural blackjack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the dealer turns out to have a natural blackjack, the player collects a 2:1 payout on the insurance - so that you don't wind up losing your bet!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the specific scenario I'd like to understand: Imagine that you're a blackjack player who has $1,000 in chips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You bet $200 (so you have $800 left).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards are dealt, dealer shows an Ace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You buy insurance (cost: $200; you now have $600 in-hand).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You hit, and your hand busts: you've gone over 21.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dealer reveals their hand, it's a natural blackjack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the following outcomes would apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outcome A:&lt;/strong&gt; You don't collect your insurance, because you busted. You have $600 in-hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Outcome B:&lt;/strong&gt; You collect insurance, even though they busted. You now have $1,000 in-hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13996" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T18:19:19.553" Title="Blackjack: If you're insured, and bust, do you collect on the insurance?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27181" CreationDate="2015-10-09T02:54:30.037" Score="14" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Option B, but not for the reason you think.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have made two errors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you take insurance, you may &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack#Insurance&quot;&gt;insure only up to half of your original bet&lt;/a&gt;, turning what would ordinarily be a loss into a push at 2:1. In this case, if your wager was $200, you could insure for up to $100.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Once insurance is &quot;closed,&quot; the dealer checks to see whether he or she has a natural 21. If he or she does, it is revealed immediately, your insurance is paid out, and all other players lose[*]. If he or she does not, insurance is collected, and the hand proceeds normally. In no case would you still have an insurance payout pending and get to hit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[*]= Barring those who had naturals themselves, who either took the option for &quot;even money&quot; before insurance had closed, or will now &quot;push&quot; against the dealer's 21.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in this case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You bet $200 ($800 left)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You take insurance of $100 ($700 left)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dealer shows a natural 21. You lose your $200 bet, but your insurance bet pays out 2 to 1 -- your initial $100, plus $200, for a total of $300 back to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have $1000, same as you had before this hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="25" LastEditorUserId="25" LastEditDate="2015-10-09T03:04:37.493" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T03:04:37.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27184" CreationDate="2015-10-09T13:02:41.027" Score="7" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a board game which requires 2 colors with 5 pieces each. As of right now, I use pennies and dimes. What is an easy way to get pieces for my board game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:11:47.367" Title="How to get pieces for my board game?" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2015-10-09T13:14:14.610" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/&quot;&gt;Gamecrafter&lt;/a&gt; allows you to buy all sorts of pieces for your game.  If you use their pieces, you can even upload your game and have people buy it on demand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T13:14:14.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27189" CreationDate="2015-10-09T14:19:20.503" Score="4" ViewCount="118" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Avalon Hill game, Afrika Korps, the British receive reinforcements in June, 1941, several months after the game begins. These are survivors of a futile campaign to save Greece. I am asking the following two questions in order to try to assess the impact of the Greece campaign on the game (and real life events).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do the reinforcements from Greece compare to the force sent to Greece? (I'm not claiming that they were sent from Egypt, only that they would have been available for Egypt if not sent to Greece. Was the order of magnitude one-third, one-half, two-thirds, or closer to some other number?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that the returning reinforcements were never sent to Greece, but that the British start with those June &quot;Greek reinforcements&quot; at Alexandria at the beginning of the game. How (if at all), would that change the balance of power in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(My sense is that the &quot;sent&quot; force was two to three times the size of the &quot;retrieved&quot; force, but that even allowing the British the &quot;returned&quot; force at the beginning of the game might make it better for them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T17:12:33.180" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T17:12:33.180" Title="How did the Greek campaign affect Afrika Korps?" Tags="|afrika-korps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2015-10-09T14:44:05.587" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.meeplesource.com/index.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MeepleSource&lt;/a&gt; has all kinds of game accessories, including custom meeples. I would definitely check them out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="13995" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T15:11:47.367" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:11:47.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27187" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2015-10-09T20:00:52.043" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want &lt;em&gt;custom&lt;/em&gt; game pieces, you could have them 3D printed at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shapeways.com/&quot;&gt;Shapeways&lt;/a&gt; -- they do great work.  As folks have already mentioned, game stores (I'll throw in a link to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thewarstore.com/chessex-glass-marker-gaming-stones.html&quot;&gt;TheWarStore&lt;/a&gt;) often have markers and tokens of all sorts.  One last option is poker chips, which are often available from the dollar store or even in grocery/convenience stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14007" LastActivityDate="2015-10-09T20:00:52.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27215" CreationDate="2015-10-10T09:23:41.240" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating my own card game and am currently designing the back of the cards I notice on a lot of packs there is a gap between the design and the edge of the card. Is this standardised anywhere?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14011" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T20:32:17.857" Title="Custom card print dimensions" Tags="|game-design|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27185" CreationDate="2015-10-10T13:13:03.723" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your base assumption concerning the relationship of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Order_of_battle_for_the_Battle_of_Greece#Commonwealth_forces&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Commonwealth Expeditionary Force to Greece&lt;/a&gt; is incorrect. That force comprised three fully (or nearly so) re-equipped units:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/6th_Division_(Australia)#Greece.2C_Crete_and_Syria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;6th Australian Division&lt;/a&gt; - Fought in Syria after being evacuated from Crete, and then was transferred to the Pacific Theatre in January 1942. Given the supply priority of units sent to Greece, it was probably three 2-2-6 brigade units.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2nd_New_Zealand_Division#Battle_of_Crete&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New Zealand DIvision&lt;/a&gt; (only later re-designated as 2nd New Zealand Division) - after evacuation from Crete was integrated into Eight Army proper, but returns to the game in November 1941 as part of the Crusader reinforcements. This may be un-historical, as I could find no record of a rebuilding of the division required before it returned to combat duties. In game terms this division comprises three 1-1-6 brigade units.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1st_Armoured_Brigade_(United_Kingdom)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;1st British Armoured Brigade&lt;/a&gt; This unit returns to the game in November 1941 as a 2-2-7 armoured unit, but in April 1941 was similarly equipped to other British armoured brigades, so likely a 4-4-7 armoured brigade and 1-1-12 reconnaissance battalion. If not sent to Greece it would likely have been available at El Alamein I April 1941, having just been re-equipped with new tanks to replace those lost during, or unserviceable after, Beda Fomm. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From all research I could find the order of Battle of the June and July replacements listed in the game would be unchanged. It is possible that they would have been better equipped however, so perhaps a couple or three of the 1-1-6 units would have appeared as 2-2-6 units instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that the game designation of British infantry brigades as 1-1-6 or 2-2-6 units clearly is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; intended to represent an accurate reflection of some such units being either twice as effective as others, but rather as a means of expressing an average combat value of about 1.5, while still providing the British with the ability to allocate weaker or stronger forces to specific locations. Certainly some units arrived in the theatre better trained or better equipped, or achieved greater renown while there, but the difference was never so great as 2 to 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus making these troops available almost doubles starting British forces, though they would have been scattered from Alexandria to perhaps Tobruk rather than being available in Western Cyrenaica. The British were well aware of Rommel's reinforcements of earlier that spring, but badly under estimated the speed with which he was able to prepare and assemble them for an offensive out of El Agheila - they estimated that such an offensive would not be possible until May or June.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the game is finely tuned match and readily balanced in tournaments by the simple expedient of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamers.org/yearbkex14/afkpge.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;adjusting Supply rolls&lt;/a&gt; (see &lt;strong&gt;Side Determination and Bidding for Supplies&lt;/strong&gt;), any change in the starting British forces would require a severe adjustment to the victory criteria. In essence, you are building a new game based on an unhistorical assumption. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Churchill in &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/0395410576&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Grand Alliance&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; notes that the deciding factors in sending an expeditionary force to Greece were:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The belief that Rommel could not launch an offensive in Cyrenaica until May or June; and more importantly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That not doing so, after having granted public assurances to Greece and being seen to have available forces in Egypt, would have had possibly dire effects on the neutrality of both Spain and Turkey.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary of Bidding with supplies&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;German player gets ability to nullify a number of &lt;strong&gt;Sunk&lt;/strong&gt; results on Supply Table (after the die roll), and/or start with additional Supply units, a number of times equal to the British player's winning bid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;British player gets ability to nullify a number of &lt;strong&gt;Arrived&lt;/strong&gt; results on Supply Table (after the die roll) equal to German player's winning bid.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If both players bid for separate sides no auction occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-10-10T13:40:39.893" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T13:40:39.893" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27192" CreationDate="2015-10-10T21:56:44.057" Score="5" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to quite figure out how cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/File%3APsAmandaSharpeFront.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Amanda Sharpe's Pass/Fail&lt;/a&gt; work where it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...put a Clue token on this Card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do these clue tokens become usable as a bank of clue tokens, such as when sealing a gate?  Do you get to use them once the condition has passed or failed, and they are put into your normal clue token pool?  Or are these simply markers, unusable and lost when passed/failed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14016" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T17:50:50.120" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T17:50:50.120" Title="Arkham Horror Put a Clue Token on this card?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27191" CreationDate="2015-10-10T22:10:36.627" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;They're just markers; effectively you have to draw three unique items to pass her story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules-wise, there's nothing that explicitly says this, it's just that the tokens are on the card, not in your possession, and there's nothing that says you can ever gain them or use them. I wouldn't say they're &quot;lost&quot; when passed/failed; you never actually had them as clue tokens. They just go back to the supply once the card doesn't need them, their purpose served.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of cards in Arkham Horror use tokens of various kinds as markers. Many of the rumors use clue tokens to keep track of &quot;how bad is it&quot; (for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/The_Great_Ritual&quot;&gt;The Great Ritual&lt;/a&gt;). When possible, they'll use an appropriate type of token for the function of the card, like the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Golden_Trumpet&quot;&gt;Golden Trumpet&lt;/a&gt; which prevents sanity loss and uses sanity tokens to track it. But most things don't have an obvious choice like that, so clue tokens are a nice generic choice that you're unlikely to be out of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-10-10T22:10:36.627" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-10T23:50:57.553" Score="0" ViewCount="1706" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen questions about if fighting damage is combat damage, but I don't think this is the same thing. The other questions I saw were asking if fight damage will trigger combat abilities. They say they're separate from each other, and nothing in the official rules say anything about my dilemma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question involves a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394572&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Foe-Razer Regent&lt;/a&gt;. When it's played, it will fight target creature, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Savage Punch&lt;/a&gt;. Because it's fighting, it triggers its second ability to give it two +1/+1 counters at the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, will creatures attacking during the combat step trigger the Foe-Razer Regent's second ability? Or will it only be things like Savage Punch, where it says fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user14017" LastEditorDisplayName="user14017" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T02:32:53.167" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T02:48:35.623" Title="Will combat damage trigger fight abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-10-11T22:22:12.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-10-11T01:07:07.127" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree that the player who draws the longest routes has an advantage. A winning play in Ticket to Ride (TTR) doesn't boil down simply to that. Here are a few reasons why I don't think changing the rules is necessary (according to my many many TTR games played):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Many games can be won by completing only small routes, and by using connections that are essential to connecting certain parts of the map that many players often want to use in a game (for example Omaha to Kansas City on the America map). Choosing strategic routes (not simply the shortest one to get from on city to another) makes a big difference in TTR.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;There is also the possibility to take smalls gambles when you think you have an idea of where someone wants to go. Here's an example: if you think a player is trying to connect Houston to New Orleans in the America map, a move I have often used is to play that connection even if it has nothing to do with my objectives. As I said, it is a gamble, but more often than not you can somewhat judge the direction a player is heading in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Another good strategy is to draw three more route cards on your first turn, and sometimes three more on your second turn. You will be behind other players in map building cards, but you can potentially have 5-6 route cards that you can manage to connect with 25-30 trains.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that in TTR there are many ways of playing to avoid the winner to often be the one with the longest route cards drawn at the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14015" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-10-11T20:34:05.073" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T20:34:05.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27193" CreationDate="2015-10-11T02:48:35.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, combat damage does not count as fighting, and will not trigger an ability that says &quot;whenever a creature you control fights.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fight&quot; is defined in the official rules. The text of it doesn't matter; all that matters is that it's a defined thing, and that it doesn't tie itself to combat in any way, so only something that actually says &quot;fight&quot; is a &quot;fight&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the entire combat procedure is spelled out in the rules. Nowhere in it does it mention &quot;fight&quot;, so it &lt;em&gt;definitely&lt;/em&gt; does not have any interaction with fight. (In fact, the only section of the rules that mentions fight is the section defining it, plus the summary of that definition in the glossary.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T02:48:35.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27197" CreationDate="2015-10-11T14:49:21.033" Score="2" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card Rebel Cantina gives you cards during the Produce phase for every rebel world in your tableau. But what if another player plays the Produce? Does it still count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14021" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T19:42:41.853" Title="Do I get cards from Rebel Cantina even if another player played Produce?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27196" CreationDate="2015-10-11T15:22:05.190" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The only difference between the player who plays &quot;Produce&quot; and everyone else is the free good on a windfall world. Every other effect applies equally to every player - there's no difference between Rebel Cantina and any other world with a &quot;Produce&quot; effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T15:22:05.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27196" CreationDate="2015-10-11T19:42:41.853" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You said it perfectly in your question &quot;during the Produce phase&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player plays the V-Produce action card, he iniates that phase for every player, and he gets a bonus for that phase. All cards that have an effect in the V slot are activiated regardless of who iniated the Produce phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14015" LastActivityDate="2015-10-11T19:42:41.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27199" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T00:08:31.857" Score="20" ViewCount="2373" Body="&lt;p&gt;So let's say you are playing a 6-person game. You have 9 points. During Special Building Phase, you reach 11 points. However, you have not won yet because it is not your turn yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, another player reaches 10 points on her turn. She has beaten you, even though you have more points that her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4614-victory-conditions-can-i-win-during-special-building-phase&quot;&gt;official Catan FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory Conditions:&lt;/strong&gt; Can I win during the special building phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; No. You can only win during your own turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on this FAQ, I'd have to believe the answer is yes, but it's the first time I realized it's possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose it could also happen during a 4 player game: Let's say you have 9 points. During someone else's turn, the Longest Road is broken up and is transferred to you, putting you at 11 points. However, you have not yet won yet, because it's not your turn. In the meantime, another player reaches 10 points on his turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12533" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T03:42:23.873" Title="Is it possible to lose Catan to a player with fewer points than you?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2015-10-12T00:16:24.657" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as it says in the rules you quoted you can only win on your turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory Conditions:&lt;/strong&gt; Can I win during the special building phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; No. You can only win during your own turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes if you reach 11 points and it is not your turn it doesn't matter and someone else will still win if they reach 10 points on their turn and it is before your next turn. In Catan it isn't just about reaching 10 points to win but to do it on your turn as there is a chance you could lose some points before your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T00:16:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27202" CreationDate="2015-10-12T08:41:27.943" Score="2" ViewCount="639" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aligned%20Hedron%20Network&quot;&gt;Aligned Hedron Network&lt;/a&gt; against an Eldrazi deck to exile big creatures, am I then able to send these creatures to the graveyard with the likes of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulamog%20Despoiler&quot;&gt;Ulamog Despoiler&lt;/a&gt; to give him the 4 +1/+1 counters? I'm not sure if the cards exiled this way can be targeted by these types of abilities...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this works and my Aligned Hedron Network was to be destroyed afterwards, the creatures would not return from Exile as they were placed in the graveyard, Correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T13:36:31.693" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T13:36:31.693" Title="Aligned Hedron Network and Ulamog's Despoiler" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27201" CreationDate="2015-10-12T09:07:47.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ulamog's Despoiler makes no limitations as to what cards can be moved from exile to graveyard except the cards' owners. Therefore, you can move any of your opponent's exiled cards, no matter how they got exiled. Note, however, the rulings on the Despoiler's Gatherer page regarding face-down exiled cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Aligned Hedron Network was destroyed after Despoiler has had its effect, the Network's effect would end and return all cards exiled with it to the battlefield. Unless a few specific exceptions apply (which they don't here), effects do not track objects across zones, and the Network would not return the cards put into the graveyard by Despoiler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T09:07:47.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27203" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27204" CreationDate="2015-10-12T12:44:32.540" Score="3" ViewCount="9520" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was talking to a friend who said he played a game of Magic over the weekend. He said his opponent played a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Void%20Winnower&quot;&gt;Void Winnower&lt;/a&gt; but it was okay because he was holding a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheer%20Drop&quot;&gt;Sheer Drop&lt;/a&gt; in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Void Winnower attacked, he chump blocked in and then on his turn he cast Sheer drop which only has a CMC of 3, but he said he cast it for the Awaken cost which is 6 cmc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought by using the Awaken cost, the CMC would now be 6 and so Void Winnower's ability would prevent it? Is anyone able to give me a definitive answer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T04:47:55.927" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T13:12:30.970" Title="Does Void Winnower prevent casting spells for even alternative mana costs?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27203" CreationDate="2015-10-12T12:52:11.220" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time the converted mana cost of a spell changes is if is has an {X} in the cost and the spell is currently being cast. So Sheer Drop will always have a CMC of 3 regardless of if the Awaken cost is paid, or if anything else changes the actual amount of mana paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3.&lt;/strong&gt; The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.1.&lt;/strong&gt; A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card. (See rule 107.4.) On most cards, these symbols are printed in the upper right corner. Some cards from the Future Sight set have alternate frames in which the mana symbols appear to the left of the illustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T12:52:11.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2580" CreationDate="2015-10-12T13:46:06.243" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/latest-developments/mulligans-2015-08-07&quot;&gt;excellent article up by one of the Magic developers&lt;/a&gt; that discusses the issues with various mulligan types, and why they upgraded to the new &quot;Vancouver&quot; Scry 1 mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick summary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &quot;cheaper&quot; it is to mulligan, the more likely you are to do it. On digital, this is instantaneous. In paper, &lt;em&gt;properly&lt;/em&gt; shuffling takes a lot longer, as does deciding whether to keep the hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The more control you have over your mulligan (e.g. the way Hearthstone works, where you select cards to replace), the more likely it is that certain powerful decks that are currently kept in check by their reliability issues will simply become broken&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They want to have the same mulligan rules for all the major 1v1 formats; stuff that's fine in Limited can be bonkers for constructed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One interesting point in the article is that it agrees with you that it would make casual games a lot more fun. So if you want to casually agree to do it outside of ranked events like FNM, go for it! But be aware that it's not how cards are balanced, and so as you progress, certain decks may be more powerful than they should be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T13:46:06.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28723" CreationDate="2015-10-12T14:53:40.170" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the IELLO game Little Red Riding Hood, any time you start a new gathering and flip the owl card as the starting card, do you get to look at the bottom card of the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that you do the special actions (owl, riding hood) when you choose to gather and flip the corresponding card versus choosing to stop gathering. In the beginning section before this player choice the rules state to start the gathering by flipping the first card and placing path tokens according to the number of flowers (with no mention of the special action cards). A strict reading of the rules would mean we don't do the owl action. Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T14:36:29.830" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:36:29.830" Title="Do you look at the bottom card when you draw an owl as the first card in a gathering?" Tags="|little-red-riding-hood|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27207" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27208" CreationDate="2015-10-12T14:59:59.717" Score="1" ViewCount="36" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that when you draw a riding hood card you leave the path tokens on the cards after you flip them over and move forward.  Does this mean you get to use the tokens again, say, if you were to decide to stop gathering right away?  The rules imply this but do not explicitly explain that this is the intention of the card (to grant the ability to reuse gathered path tokens).  I only ask because being able to do so kind of breaks the story (doesn't make sense you could gather the same path items twice, really, but as a game mechanic helps a good deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T12:17:32.010" Title="Does the red riding hood card allow you to move forward and use the path tokens again?" Tags="|little-red-riding-hood|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27207" CreationDate="2015-10-12T17:05:45.190" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would certainly say yes.  Besides the rules implying this, there is no other reason that I can see for them to explicitly tell you to leave the tokens on the cards.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T17:05:45.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27210" CreationDate="2015-10-12T19:18:45.307" Score="1" ViewCount="1254" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 810.5 about the Two-Headed Giant game variant says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;810.5. With the exception of life total and poison counters, a team’s resources (cards in hand, mana, &#xA;  and so on) are not shared in the Two-Headed Giant variant. Teammates may review each other’s &#xA;  hands and discuss strategies at any time.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Teammates can’t manipulate each other’s cards or &#xA;  permanents&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, my question is: Is it possible to enchant or target my teammates' permanents or does this rule forbid this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6074" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T21:18:23.713" Title="Multiplayer Rules Considering Enchantments" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27209" CreationDate="2015-10-12T19:42:05.273" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That rule is using &quot;manipulate&quot; in the sense of &quot;physically interact with&quot;. It's saying that you can't grab cards out of your teammate's hand or tap your teammate's permanents, for example. This does not prevent you from targeting or enchanting your teammate or their cards/permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-12T21:18:23.713" LastActivityDate="2015-10-12T21:18:23.713" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-12T23:22:49.390" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played several games as a teenager, but never lasted beyond November 1941 on either side. That's when the British get massive reinforcements for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Operation_Crusader&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Operation Crusader.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I remember, the Operation Crusader reinforcements were very nearly the size of the whole original German force. So the Germans win if they capture Alexandria before the British get the Crusader reinforcements, and maybe they can win if the original British force is on its &quot;last legs,&quot; by November, 1941 so that the Crusader reinforcements don't give the British the advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My recollection was that the Germans received somewhat more reinforcements for part of 1942, but they also have severe supply problems then. Do they have a &quot;second chance&quot; if they haven't beaten the original force and the Crusader reinforcements piecemeal? Or are their winning chances &quot;bunched&quot; before November, 1941?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T22:55:08.537" Title="Are the Germans' winning chances in Afrika Korps concentrated in 1941?" Tags="|afrika-korps|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27212" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-13T02:18:47.520" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T02:18:47.520" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T02:18:47.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27213" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-13T02:18:47.520" Score="0" Body="The fifth game in Purple Brain Creations' &quot;Tales &amp; Games&quot; series, letting players either try to reach Grandma's house or play as the wolf." OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:23:36.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:23:36.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27211" CreationDate="2015-10-13T03:00:41.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote from John Lockwood's excellent article &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/The_GENERAL_Vol.17%2CNo.3#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Afrika Korps Theory&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;Avalon Hill GENERAL&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Sep/Oct 1980, Vol. 17 #3&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once November [1941] rolls around, most British players breathe a big&#xA;  sigh of relief, thinking that the game is won. Although the British&#xA;  receive a big boost in their force position and may even outnumber the&#xA;  Germans on the board, the advantage is not entirely in he British&#xA;  favor. For one thing the supply table from December 1941 until the end&#xA;  of the game is highly favourable to the Germans. As illustrated earlier&#xA;  they will be enabled to maintain a constant attack for as many as 75%&#xA;  of the remaining turns. Coupled with their ten factors of replacements&#xA;  this bodes ill for the British if they are backed up too close to their&#xA;  home base. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The middle game in Afrika Korps can be regarded as beginning once Tobruk has been invested by the Germans; the end game once Alexandria has likewise been invested, or nearly so. However just as in Go, the endgame can be quite lengthy. It is an endgame because the strategic positional phase portion of the game has completed, and only tactically significant positional considerations remain. In a game between two strong players this slugging match at Alexandria and then Tobruk (usually) will decide the match, according to the small advantages each has managed to accumulate in getting there. This rarely starts before November 1941 for two strong players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2019-07-15T22:55:08.537" LastActivityDate="2019-07-15T22:55:08.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27188" CreationDate="2015-10-13T14:11:33.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It´s to avoid trimming essential text and images of the card when it's cut out after printing. Also, using black or solid colors can make the white card stock paper visible during the cutting process. Those infos you can find &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.thegamecrafter.com/help/designer-tips&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some patterns, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.artofplay.com/products/flesh-bones&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, goes beyond the safe margin. So, the gap in the edge of the cards is just a best practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-10-14T06:52:01.837" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T06:52:01.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27217" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-10-13T18:08:18.153" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-10-13T18:08:18.153" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T18:08:18.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27218" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-10-13T18:08:18.153" Score="0" Body="A trick-taking card game, similar to Whist, in which Spades are trumps.  Players bid the number of tricks they expect to make from the hand and then aim to make at least that number." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2018-09-06T12:26:54.417" LastActivityDate="2018-09-06T12:26:54.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26964" CreationDate="2015-10-13T18:12:04.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found proper wordings for the abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wrack power is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You have the power to Torture. As main player, after alliances are set&#xA;  but before cards are selected, you may use this power to offer your&#xA;  opponent a deal, following the regular rules for making a deal. If he&#xA;  rejects your offer, you may torture him once for each ship you have in&#xA;  the encounter. On each torture, you may select one of his ships to&#xA;  send to the warp or draw one of his cards to send to the discard pile.&#xA;  If he accepts the deal at any time, the torture stops and you conclude&#xA;  the deal. If he never accepts, you lose the encounter and he wins,&#xA;  with normal encounter resolution for you both and allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Super flare:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may stop the torture at any time before reaching your limit and continue the encounter normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Yes, but it is not important. That situation isn't very different to offering something ridiculously unprofitable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) No. The process is iterative, because it gives the oponent time to rethink their decision (which resembles torturing a lot). Also when you torture them in a way they did not expect, they could break the process then. Moreover it gives an option to use the flair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6567" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T07:19:45.007" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T07:19:45.007" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12250" CreationDate="2015-10-13T20:39:45.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, she can move to Colonial One or Galactica and use two actions if she started her turn in a viper. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/bsg_FAQ_2_hi-res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; states this clearly. Remember that the player needs to discard one skill card to move from the viper to the Colonial One or Galactica.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T20:39:45.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27222" CreationDate="2015-10-13T20:55:55.987" Score="5" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Executive Order card says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; Choose any other player. He may move his character and then take 1 action OR not move and take 2 actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not state that the player targeted by the Executive Order should do what the player who played the card order (or even if he &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; order something). So, this is the question: When someone use the Executive Order, he can order other player to do something or the card just let the other player do whatever he wants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T21:19:43.000" Title="Player targeted by Executive Order card must obey the other player order?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27221" CreationDate="2015-10-13T21:19:43.000" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try giving orders, but the other player is in full control of the actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For this reason, never XO the person to your left unless all Cylons have been positively identified.  Giving a Cylon 3 actions in a row is very hard to overcome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-10-13T21:19:43.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27183" CreationDate="2015-10-14T10:36:31.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can buy huge lots of various game pieces on e-bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T10:36:31.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2634" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:10:35.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Political Prowess&lt;/strong&gt; is not an &lt;strong&gt;Action&lt;/strong&gt; card, what means that it can be used at any moment. You can use it in the Brig situation described in your question. Likely, you can use this card to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brig someone automatically in the Admiral Quarters location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Change the President title in the Administration location.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be a powerful card if used at the right moment (for humans or unrevelead cylons). Not least, this card have strentgh 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:10:35.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2438" CreationDate="2015-10-14T15:20:00.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Crisis cards can be taken by human players, so the reasoning for the &lt;em&gt;After the Activate Cylon Ships step, return to the Resolve Crisis step [Draw a new Crisis card and resolve it.]&lt;/em&gt; is that, if a human player draw that card, they must activate the cylon ships and return to the deck to take another one Crisis (and resolve it, what a mess...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since revealed Cylon don't have the Activate Cylon Ships Step, they will not trigger this effect. Just discard the card and take another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T15:20:00.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-10-14T17:48:55.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you could mitigate this by having a hand drafting of initial routes, ala 7 wonders/agricola.  Let's say you seed each player with a minimum of two long routes and two short.  On top of that, people will have partial knowledge of routes in play which may lead to more screwage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14046" LastActivityDate="2015-10-14T17:48:55.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27228" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27229" CreationDate="2015-10-15T00:16:01.677" Score="11" ViewCount="1331" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I have acquired some of the recent duel decks over time &amp;mdash; Heroes vs Monsters, Zendikar vs Edrazi, Elspeth vs Kiora, and Speed vs Cunning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried each of them a few times, and while I'm pretty satisfied with them, some of my friends are coming out concerned that one of the decks in the pairs we've tried might simply have a greater chance of winning than the other. For Zendikar vs Eldrazi they're thinking the Eldrazi has a moderate edge; for Heroes vs Monsters they suspect Heroes have a strong advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might just be our limited number of games, who was inclined to play what, confirmation bias, etc. &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/heroes-vs-monsters-2013-08-19&quot;&gt;Trick Jarrett won with monsters 3-1&lt;/a&gt; for instance, and I imagine duel decks are at least &lt;em&gt;intended&lt;/em&gt; to be even. I haven't been able to cue Google to offer up an answer as to the odds of each deck of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I need to turn to your expertise and shed some light that might either confirm what my friends suspect or assuage their concerns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all duel deck pairings intended to have a roughly even chance of winning against each other? I'm assuming this is the case, but that's just me assuming. More importantly, &lt;strong&gt;do they actually tend to work out that way in practice, or are they known to sometimes come out with a strong bias toward one of the decks?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would prefer to see citations from credible sources about developer intentions and win rates. (Official sources like the Wizards development team are credible. If there's genuinely no citations available, I can accept that, but I'd like to be informed of that.) It's pretty reasonable to assume that something called &quot;duel decks&quot; would be intended to have even chances of winning, but I don't want to go by assumptions &amp;mdash; and I want something for my friends to have confidence in. It's &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; they have design time constraints that prevent them from really achieving evenness, or that the product's seen as secondary and 70/30 odds is considered good enough, etc. It's more probable they want everything to be 50/50 (or 55/45 at worst) and have plenty of resources available and devote themselves to successfully achieving that every time, but I'd like to &lt;em&gt;know&lt;/em&gt; that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T01:25:09.343" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T15:00:55.103" Title="Are duel deck pairs always released with an even chance of winning?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27228" CreationDate="2015-10-15T03:37:21.120" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards' intentions in designing/developing/releasing the decks is for them to be balanced, with 50/50 being the ideal, and further, for the gameplay itself to have plenty of back-and-forth. I found a handful of official articles on wizards.com supporting this; I'm sure it's difficult to be perfect at, but they clearly do a lot of playtesting aiming at that goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that Wizards' description of their playtesting is potentially biased, but they do suggest that they manage to achieve a pretty high degree of balance and it's certainly in their own interests to do so! They're also up-front about when their playtesting can't match real-world gameplay (e.g. they commonly mention not being able to fully &amp;quot;solve&amp;quot; Standard), and they don't mention that here, suggesting that they genuinely think they do a good job.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I haven't found any empirical playtesting evidence from outside Wizards. The closest I've seen is forum threads where someone says &amp;quot;A is so much better than B&amp;quot; then someone else says &amp;quot;no way, B is way better&amp;quot;, someone else says &amp;quot;they came out pretty even in my games&amp;quot;, and no conclusion is reached. That's consistent with them actually being balanced and no one having a big enough sample size, but it's not exactly clear evidence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/some-number-questions-about-knights-vs-dragons-2011-03-28&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Some Number of Questions about Knights vs. Dragons&lt;/a&gt; - 2011, on Dragons vs. Knights. This is the most explicit one, indicating that they care not only about odds but about the progression of the game feeling balanced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balance! This is Development's area of expertise and involves more than simply playing a bunch of test games and making sure the match-up is 50-50. There need to be moves and countermoves and counter-countermoves. In early testing of Phyrexia vs. The Coalition, for example, the decks just exchanged blowouts, which was &amp;quot;balanced&amp;quot; but not very fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20151108045102/http://archive.wizards.com:80/Magic/magazine/Article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/289&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Playing with Jace &amp;amp; Vraska&lt;/a&gt; - 2014, on Jace vs. Vraska, by Sam Stoddard (a developer!), also confirming the strategic balance aspect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I probably played a hundred plus games of Jace vs. Chandra, and was excited about the opportunity to try to sculpt a fun and interesting matchup between two of our characters using cards from throughout the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When working on this Duel Deck, I tried to position the decks in such a way that the matchup between them was something that was strategically deep and allowed for both decks to have early and late game strategies. ... I definitely didn't want the entire game to come down to whether one deck survives until turn 7, at which time it would have a tremendous advantage. Instead, both decks can take the game over at any point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/making-enemies-designing-decks-pairs-2011-04-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Making Enemies: Designing Decks in Pairs&lt;/a&gt; - 2011, from the intro; the actual article is a reprint of a 1995 Duelist article from way before duel decks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These days, Magic R&amp;amp;D designs and develops Duel Decks, specifically made to be balanced against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/pointy-ears-vs-pointy-teeth-2007-11-19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pointy Ears vs. Pointy Teeth&lt;/a&gt; - 2007, on Elves vs. Goblins, describing the results of playtesting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once we had our initial decklists, we put them through the playtesting grinder, fighting both sides of the matchup dozens of times, tweaking as we went, then handing them to other R&amp;amp;D members and watching them play. We knew we were getting close when one playtest pair assured us that the Goblins were better, while another playtest pair with the same decks assured us that the Elves were better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/duel-or-die-2012-03-26-0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duel or Die&lt;/a&gt; - 2012, on designing Venser vs. Koth, with a weaker statement of balance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage, we do what we do best in R&amp;amp;D: playtest and refine. Over and over and over. We swap cards in and out. We speculatively try some cards just to see what they do (and often, what they do is come right back out of the decks). We balance the decks with one another so neither one is an auto-win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/building-budget/duel-deckin-upgrades-2010-09-22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Duel Deckin' Upgrades&lt;/a&gt; - 2010, Jacob van Lunen (a player this time, not someone from R&amp;amp;D) on Elspeth vs Tezzeret, suggesting that play skill/style may well have something to do with perceptions of imbalance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of players at my local shop have complained that the Elspeth deck wins almost every game they play. After having played a lot of games with both decks I was very surprised to hear this. In my experience, the decks present each other with a very even and exciting match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T15:00:55.103" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T15:00:55.103" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27232" CreationDate="2015-10-15T07:30:27.570" Score="2" ViewCount="1568" Body="&lt;p&gt;In conjunction to my previous question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/27201/aligned-hedron-network-and-ulamogs-despoiler&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, I created some confusion for myself. I want to know how this scenario would pan out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent casts 2-3 huge creatures (say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEldrazi%20Devastator%2c%5d&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Devastator,&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRuin%20Processor%5d&quot;&gt;Ruin Processor&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%2c%20the%20Ceaseless%20Hunger%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On my next turn, I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAligned%20Hedron%20Network%5d&quot;&gt;Aligned Hedron Network&lt;/a&gt;, exiling these three creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On my opponent's next turn, he is unable to destroy AHN.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=402080&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ulamog's Despoiler&lt;/a&gt;, and choose to send Ulamog and Eldrazi Devastator to the Graveyard from Exile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After this process, if my AHN is still in play, will my Ulamog's Dispoiler be exiled? I think not, because of the text, &quot;When Aligned Hedron Network enters the battlefield exile ...&quot;. However, the last bit threw me off &quot;until Aligned Hedron Network leaves the battlefield.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these interpretations is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Until AHN leaves the battlefield, all creatures with power 5 or more are exiled whenever they enter the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All creatures on the field with power 5 or more at the time that AHN enters are exiled until AHN is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T16:37:00.297" Title="Does Aligned Hedron Network exile creatures that enter after it does?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27230" CreationDate="2015-10-15T07:44:34.077" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second option is correct: the Aligned Hedron Network has a triggered ability, that exiles a set of creatures when it enters the battlefield. This exile effect lasts until the Network leaves the battlefield, at which time the creatures return to the battlefield. It does not continuously exile creatures that enter after it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the rules describing &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Triggered Abilities&lt;/a&gt;, specifically 603.1, say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Aligned Hedron Network, the trigger condition is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Aligned Hedron Network enters the battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the effect is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;exile all creatures with power 5 or greater until Aligned Hedron Network leaves the battlefield&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Aligned Hedron Network spell resolves, it enters the battlefield as a permanent and the ability triggers. That is the only time it happens, because it is the only time that the trigger condition is true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the effect has the &amp;quot;until Aligned Hedron Network leaves the battlefield&amp;quot; clause. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/One-shot_effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules regarding One Shot Effects&lt;/a&gt; say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;610.1&lt;/strong&gt; A one-shot effect does something just once and doesn’t have a duration. Examples include dealing damage, destroying a permanent, putting a token onto the battlefield, and &lt;strong&gt;moving an object from one zone to another&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;610.3&lt;/strong&gt; Some one-shot effects cause an object to change zones “until” a specified event occurs. A second one-shot effect is created immediately after the specified event. This second one-shot effect returns the object to its previous zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, as soon as the Network leaves the battlefield, the objects it exiled return to the battlefield under their owners' control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T07:57:10.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27230" CreationDate="2015-10-15T07:45:12.813" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Network's ability is a triggered one, which triggers, as stated, when Network enters the battlefield. All creatures with power 5 or greater will be exiled when this ability resolves (unless something happens, like Network being destroyed before it resolves), and will stay exiled until Network leaves the battlefield. If the ability was worded, for example, &quot;Whenever a creature with power 5 or greater enters the battlefield, exile it as long as X remains on the battlefield&quot;, then it would trigger every time a creature enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T07:45:12.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27233" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35071" CreationDate="2015-10-15T13:05:15.623" Score="3" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember download a file in the emule some 15 years ago, with a lot of cards that works as an addon for Risk. For e.g., one card give you terrorism so you can attack from Irak to some region in US, or sattelite, so you can jump a region to attack another one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some one knows anything about it? Name, location to download, or anything?&#xA;Some similar addons will be value also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2928" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T23:29:51.370" Title="Addon for Risk with cards" Tags="|risk|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27230" CreationDate="2015-10-15T15:22:32.533" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aligned Hedron Network will exile the creatures. Set those aside as they will come back when it leaves play. The wording on the card is key here as its effect only happens as Alligned Hedron Network comes into play. Therefore any cards that are played after are not effected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I play Aligned Hedron Network on one turn, exiling a fair amount of cards. The next turn I Play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDesolation%20Twin%5d&quot;&gt;Desolation Twin&lt;/a&gt;, because the Aligned Hedron Network is already in play Desolation Twin will come into play and summon the 10/10 token and remain there, leaving your opponent very vulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14056" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T16:37:00.297" LastActivityDate="2017-04-12T16:37:00.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27236" CreationDate="2015-10-15T16:14:40.597" Score="3" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night at the end of round 2, I was the only player with any Pavilion tiles in my Alhambra. First place gets 8 points, second place gets 1 point. How do I score this? Do I get all 9 points? Or just the 8 points for first place? It's only 1 point, but I could see a situation with higher-value kind of buildings where this division would matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T08:43:09.243" Title="How do I score rounds 2 and 3 when I am the only player with a kind of building?" Tags="|alhambra|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27235" CreationDate="2015-10-15T16:38:03.543" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only get the points for first place. There simply is no second place person to receive those points. If a game wanted to let you get the second place points also in that case, it would need to be spelled out as a special rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T16:38:03.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2015-10-15T18:04:05.623" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The victory condition is not &quot;who has the most points.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The victory condition is &quot;who has gotten ten (or more points) on their turn.&quot; That is to say, the issue is one of &quot;winning a race for a high score,&quot; not one of the &quot;highest score.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponents' actions take you to, or over 10, and its not your turn, you haven't (yet) fulfilled the victory condition. After all, some other opponent could take some action to nullify your advantage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one decreases your point count, and no one reaches ten before your turn, you win. If someone does reach ten on a turn prior to yours, they have won the &quot;race.&quot; That's true even if you have the same, or larger number of points than their ten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-10-15T20:45:40.820" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T20:45:40.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27199" CreationDate="2015-10-15T19:58:02.650" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Warning: clicking on the rules link below will start a PDF file download.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can lose to an opponent with less points than you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/catan_5th_ed_rules_eng_150303.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan 5th Edition Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ending the Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have &lt;strong&gt;10 or more&lt;/strong&gt; victory points &lt;strong&gt;during your turn&lt;/strong&gt;, the game ends and you are the winner! If you reach 10 points when it is not your turn, the game continues until any player (including you) has 10 points on his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule does not say you have to have the most points. It states that you must have 10 or more points, and it must be your turn. If you meet those two conditions, you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T19:58:02.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:21:24.580" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, I've also observed that to be the case in friendly games of the original TTR.  Probably it means that you have to be more aggressive in disrupting each others routes.  Other boards, like Netherlands and Africa, don't have the super long routes that TTR, TTR Marklin and Switzerland have, perhaps this change was in part to fix that imbalance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T22:21:24.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25768" CreationDate="2015-10-15T22:59:19.480" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Japanese are likely to have inferior search capabilities. That's just based on a historical reality that can only be partially overcome by suggestions made in the question. What can be affected are the consequences of Japan's search inferiority by giving her a compensating advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game, the maximum range for planes is 14 &quot;squares,&quot; which imply 7 squares each way. In theory, both the Japanese and the Americans can &quot;launch an attack from so far away (8-14 squares), that the planes cannot return to their bases.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as Pieter Geerkens pointed out in his &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25821/can-a-crippled-aircraft-carrier-launch-airplanes-in-midway&quot;&gt;answer to another question,&lt;/a&gt; this option was far more acceptable to the Japanese, with their samurai culture, than to the Americans. So the equalizer could be: &lt;strong&gt;Only the Japanese are allowed to launch such &quot;suicide&quot; attacks.&lt;/strong&gt; This would give them a &quot;first strike&quot; capability to compensate for their inferior search capabilities. Specifically, the American fleet would be within range of Japanese &quot;suicide&quot; attacks for three or four turns before they could launch air attacks on their own, assuming that the Japanese can find them during one of those three or four turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the first day Japanese strike force encountered the American fleet within &quot;suicide&quot; range, it might launch an attack as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) 15 torpedo squadrons against each of two of the American carriers. (Japan has 31, thanks to 3 extra squadrons on the Kaga.*)&#xA;2) 15 dive bomber squadrons against the third American carrier. &#xA;3) 12 dive bomber squadrons against the light cruiser Atlanta, with its superior anti aircraft capabilities (6 versus 3 for all other American ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Atlanta&lt;/em&gt; can save one American carrier by applying her 6 anti aircraft factor to the 15 squadrons attacking that carrier, resulting in an air-ship ratio of 2 to 1 (round in favor of the defender).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other two American carriers are automatically sunk by the application of 15 to 3 (5 to 1) odds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 12 dive bomber squadrons attack the &lt;em&gt;Atlanta&lt;/em&gt; at 4 to 1 odds. (Since she has used her 6 firepower to save a carrier, some other ship has to use their firepower of 3 against 12, leading to air-ship odds or 4 to 1.) This means that the &lt;em&gt;Atlanta&lt;/em&gt; receives three or more hits, and is sunk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If she wishes, the &lt;em&gt;Atlanta&lt;/em&gt; can use her anticraft fire to save herself (12 vs. 6, or 2 to 1 odds), at the sacrifice of the third carrier but that is an unwise choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Americans lose two carriers and the &lt;em&gt;Atlanta.&lt;/em&gt; If the Americans are smart, they will have stashed some of their carrier planes on Midway, and lose only the equivalent of one, not two, carriers worth of planes. The Japanese would lose all 57 squadrons in a suicide attack, leaving her to escort the &lt;em&gt;Atago&lt;/em&gt; to Midway, using mainly the seven battleships. The Japanese carriers are basically &quot;in the way,&quot; without planes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*The historical capacity of the &lt;em&gt;Zuiho&lt;/em&gt; (wave 3) was seven torpedo squadrons and four fighter squadrons (instead of only four torpedo squadrons). The &quot;difference&quot; provides three extra torpedo squadrons to the &lt;em&gt;Kaga,&lt;/em&gt; allowing the &quot;strike force&quot; 31 torpedo squadrons instead of 28.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T14:30:11.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1573" CreationDate="2015-10-15T23:03:18.220" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't buy one after the first round, or in a game with more than 4 players. You don't have enough time to make it worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14061" LastActivityDate="2015-10-15T23:03:18.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27244" CreationDate="2015-10-16T01:15:48.803" Score="11" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rally%20The%20Ancestors&quot;&gt;Rally The Ancestors&lt;/a&gt; and bring back 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%2C%20Heretical%20Healer&quot;&gt;Liliana, Heretical Healer&lt;/a&gt; and 2 &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398434&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jace Vryn's Prodigy&lt;/a&gt; and 1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clever%20Impersonator&quot;&gt;Clever Impersonator&lt;/a&gt; from the graveyard. How many zombie tokens can I get? Am I allowed to make the Jace die first? There's no other nonland permanents on the battlefield, do I have a target for Clever Impersonator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13887" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T02:26:46.127" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T17:27:59.480" Title="Rally The Ancestors and 3 Lilianas" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27243" CreationDate="2015-10-16T02:25:32.247" Score="17" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Short Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only get 1 Zombie token. One Jace and 2 Lilianas die simultaneously. And the Clever Impersonator can't copy anything, so it dies immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Details&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll go through those in reverse order: First, Clever Impersonator has a ruling that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Clever Impersonator enters the battlefield at the same time as another permanent, it can’t become a copy of that permanent. You may only choose a nonland permanent that’s already on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, 3 Lilianas, 2 Jaces, and 1 0/0 Clever Impersonator enter the battlefield. Then &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;state-based actions&lt;/a&gt; are checked. The specific relevant rules are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5f&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5k&lt;/strong&gt; If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “legend rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you apply those, the result is that the Clever Impersonator dies from the first rule, and 2 of the Lilianas and 1 of the Jaces die. Then, the living Liliana's ability triggers 4 times (twice for the other Lilianas, once for the Jace, and once for the Clever Impersonator), and each of the others' trigger 3 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you have a total of 10 copies of that ability on the stack. However, we can ignore the ones from the dead Liliana. That's because she is no longer on the battlefield, so you can't choose to exile her, which means that you don't get a zombie. So we are left with the 4 abilities from the one that survived.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, one of the abilities resolves. You exile her and return her to the battlefield, and you get one Zombie token. Then the next one resolves. But the Liliana, Heretical Healer creature is no longer on the battlefield, so you can't exile her. So none of the rest of the abilities give you a Zombie. Liliana has a ruling that backs this up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If multiple nontoken creatures you control die, then Liliana, Heretical Healer’s ability will trigger that many times. However, since Liliana can be exiled and returned to the battlefield only once, only the first ability to resolve will create a Zombie token. The other abilities will resolve but won’t do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Liliana's Ability&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To see exactly why Liliana's ability works the way it does, we can break it down into parts. First, it is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Triggered Ability&lt;/a&gt;, with trigger condition&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever another nontoken creature you control dies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;exile Liliana, Heretical Healer, then return her to the battlefield transformed under her owner's control. If you do, put a 2/2 black Zombie creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the effect part can be further split up. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Costs&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 117.12&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, “&lt;strong&gt;[Do something]. If [a player] [does or doesn’t], [effect].&lt;/strong&gt;” or “[A player] may [do something]. If [that player] [does or doesn’t], [effect].” &lt;strong&gt;The action [do something] is a cost, paid when the spell or ability resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; The “If [a player] [does or doesn’t]” clause checks whether the player chose to pay an optional cost or started to pay a mandatory cost, regardless of what events actually occurred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the ability's effect can be split into the cost:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;exile Liliana, Heretical Healer, then return her to the battlefield transformed under her owner's control&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the (sub) effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;put a 2/2 black Zombie creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important because rule 117.3 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player can’t pay a cost unless he or she has the necessary resources to pay it fully. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you might ask &amp;quot;What about the Lilianas in the graveyard? Why can't I exile them to get more Zombies?&amp;quot; The answer to that depends on a few different rules. Rule 112.6 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;. The exceptions are as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(None of the exceptions apply). And the rules regarding zone-change triggers say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6c&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent moves from the battlefield to another zone&lt;/strong&gt;, or when a phased-in permanent leaves the game because its owner leaves the game. These are written as, but aren’t limited to, “When [this object] leaves the battlefield, . . .” or “Whenever [something] is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, . . . .” An ability that attempts to do something to the card that left the battlefield checks for it only in the first zone that it went to. An ability that triggers when a card is put into a certain zone “from anywhere” is never treated as a leaves-the-battlefield ability, even if an object is put into that zone from the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6d&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, objects that exist immediately after an event are checked to see if the event matched any trigger conditions. Continuous effects that exist at that time are used to determine what the trigger conditions are and what the objects involved in the event look like. However, some triggered abilities must be treated specially. &lt;strong&gt;Leaves-the-battlefield abilities&lt;/strong&gt;, abilities that trigger when a card leaves a graveyard, abilities that trigger when a permanent phases out, abilities that trigger when an object that all players can see is put into a hand or library, abilities that trigger specifically when an object becomes unattached, abilities that trigger when a player loses control of an object, and abilities that trigger when a player planeswalks away from a plane &lt;strong&gt;will trigger based on their existence, and the appearance of objects, prior to the event rather than afterward. The game has to “look back in time” to determine if these abilities trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From these rules, we can see that Liliana's ability only functions while she is on the battlefield, and it triggered based on her existence before she died.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Name&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 201.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The use of the word &amp;quot;object&amp;quot; here is important, because &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Zones)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 400.7&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object&lt;/strong&gt; with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the &amp;quot;Liliana, Heretical Healer&amp;quot; in the ability's text refers to the Liliana that was on the battlefield while the ability is on the stack, and that reference does not transfer to the object she becomes when she moves to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, you can only choose to exile Liliana to get a Zombie if she is still on the battlefield, as a creature, when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T17:27:59.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13474" CreationDate="2015-10-16T02:58:32.123" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the original version of the game hotels weren't even a thing. That was added later by other people. The main tactic in that version of the game was to deliberately create a housing shortage, because that's how capitalism works irl. In fact, this game was created by a socialist woman for the sole purpose of showing how unjust unrestrained capitalism can be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14062" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-10-16T14:32:05.330" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T14:32:05.330" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27235" CreationDate="2015-10-16T08:43:09.243" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoting from the rules on second round scoring :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;points are awarded to the players with the highest number and second highest number of building tiles of each type.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later it says &quot;You must have at least 1 building tile of a particular type to be awarded points for that category&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say you have 2 pavilions and the 2 other players have 0.  You have have come first and get 8 points.  the other players score nothing.  You have not come 1st, 2nd and 3rd in this category to entitle you to all the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T08:43:09.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27247" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27248" CreationDate="2015-10-16T15:07:25.680" Score="6" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do love Puerto Rico, it's mostly strategy oriented over random factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this board game is so long to play, I would like to shorten the play time to fit one hour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have suggestions for this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2020-06-06T19:44:54.113" LastActivityDate="2020-06-06T19:44:54.113" Title="How to shorten Puerto Rico to fit one hour?" Tags="|house-rules|puerto-rico|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27247" CreationDate="2015-10-16T16:37:28.143" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The quick answer would be to use a timer and set it to an hour.&#xA;When the timer goes off, you can finish the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might try limiting the spaces available for buildings, maybe remove a row or column, thus filling the spaces more quickly and triggering the endgame.  Also, remove some of the potential workers from the worker pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how these changes would affect the overall game play, and any changes may introduce adverse effects that can be exploited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love to hear how they work if you try them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="35" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T16:37:28.143" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27249" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27247" CreationDate="2015-10-16T16:44:58.273" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have played 2-3 times a month for a long time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course games are shorter with fewer people and go faster when everyone is well acquainted with the game.  We have played normal extended version games in about an hour with 3 people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recently added a column of property spaces on each town to extend play - you could remove a column to shorten play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can deal out some random plantations at the start to accelerate play (like a bunch of Hacienda plays.)  You may give everyone a quarry to accelerate play.  You may add squares to the trading center or to the ships to accelerate play. You may add 2 coins jnstead of one to unused roles. Note that any of these steps will alter the playing strategies from a normal game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14029" LastActivityDate="2015-10-16T16:44:58.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27247" CreationDate="2015-10-17T00:35:08.930" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Play it more often. I finish two-player games with an expert friend in about 50 minutes, after having played a lot over the Internet and live. As you start learning the buildings and understand the two fundamental strategies of the game, i.e., building vs shipping, you'll start realizing your chances faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of house rules you can apply to accelerate game play, most of them already mentioned, but all of them giving advantages to specific strategies or players in a specific player order. In general, there are two ways to go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Shorten the game-ending conditions&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;That means, remove colonists, building spaces and/or victory point chips from the game. Nevertheless, be aware that shortening the game by removing colonists or building spots favors in general the building strategy, as a heavy builder will try to build the Guild Hall and fill in his spaces or empty the colonist pool before the shippers' engines kick in. Removing some VP chits might counterbalance it, but I am not sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Make it easier for players to reach the current game-ending conditions&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;You can provide them with infrastructure, such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Random plantations; would make the game too random, though, giving advantage to players who might receive corn. First player with starting corn and having the first pick on the first quarry is in a very good position.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starting colonists. It will shift the advantage to the first/second player. A huge headache of the first two players is that they don't receive a second colonist, therefore they can't do much, except if they got a corn during the first settler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A quarry to each player. This sounds fair, but again favors the building strategy a bit more now.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More coins to each player. This could work. However, I read on BGG that a couple of simulations have been carried on the Puerto Rico AI, by giving $100 to each player; 3rd player would win 100% of the time. So, more coins might mean more advantage to the 3rd spot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T00:35:08.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27255" CreationDate="2015-10-17T13:31:53.687" Score="2" ViewCount="2453" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started my first game last night and my group is confused by one of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Page 5 of Learn to Play Guide under Perform Actions #2 states: Attack a Hostile Figure. Only &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Heroes&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; can use more then one action to attack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'Assault' ability allows more then one attack. Does this mean that all of the heroes have assault? Does hero just refer to any rebel player or is it a specific type rebel player? I'm confused because one of the rebel characters has the assault ability so I need to know how it differs from the rule above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the use of the word 'assault' which is also in the title I have found this difficult to google.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7000" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T13:29:25.473" Title="In Star Wars: Imperial Assault can all rebels attack multiple times?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27253" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-17T13:47:56.793" Score="2" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the ancient one awakes, what will happen with the another monsters? They stay in the board or just they're banished? And if they stay in the board, the player needs to evade that monster every time, or just one time or never?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The another question is about the dice success, every FAQ and fourum say the number of cumulative success of dies but, what happens when in one whole round is just one success? It accumulates to the next round or it's just lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-10-18T03:33:42.527" LastActivityDate="2015-10-18T03:33:42.527" Title="Ancient one awakes and battle" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27253" CreationDate="2015-10-17T14:46:55.057" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the final battle, the only thing that matters is the Ancient One and any Investigators who were not lost in time and space. Everything associated with the old board is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a look at the description of the turn structure on page 22 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Combat with the Ancient One is divided into rounds. During a round, players first have an opportunity to adjust their investigators. Then each player attacks the Ancient One. Finally, the Ancient One attacks the investigators. Once these steps have been resolved, a new round begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where in there would monsters attack? And Investigators may only make combat checks against the Ancient One.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your second question is answered by another paragraph on page 22:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Instead, keep track of every success an investigator scores against the Ancient One (see &quot;Skill Checks,&quot; page 13). These successes are cumulative, and each successive player adds to them with his own attack. When the players accumulate a total number of successes equal to the number of players (including any players that were eliminated from the game), remove one doom token from the Ancient One's doom track and reset their cumulative successes to zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And further clarified by &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/9b/2a/9b2a9f8f-0b42-45ba-bcd2-87dc55c68f5f/complete_arkham_horror_faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the FAQ&lt;/a&gt; referenced in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7536/in-the-final-battle-when-you-remove-doom-tokens-for-rolling-successes-against-a&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the investigators get 9 successes in the first round of combat, they would remove 2 doom tokens, and 1 success would carry over to the next round of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14039" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-10-17T14:52:07.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27252" CreationDate="2015-10-18T02:05:33.590" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Hero&quot; is a very special term in this game.  Only the main characters that you start the game with are heroes. You can pick up other, non-hero characters as you play through the game. Example: han solo.  All imperial characters are also non-heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heroes can attack multiple times. Non-heroes cannot (unless another rule overrides this). That means that imperial characters and non-hero rebel characters cannot (normally) attack twice per turn.  You are right in that it's functionally almost as though they have the assault ability. However, they don't have assault on their cards, so they don't have the ability. Attacking twice is simply a feature of being a hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This distinction could potentially be important later. For example, imagine if a mission had a rule that the assault ability doesn't work during that mission. Or that no abilities work during that mission. In such cases, the heroes would still be able to attack twice, but other characters with assault would lose the benefit of assault&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T13:29:25.473" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T13:29:25.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27256" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-18T22:40:16.480" Score="1" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using mind control, my opponent takes control of Omega and uses it's effect to banish itself and a card from my hand. Does Omega return to the field,if yes then when and on whose side of the field?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PSY-Framelord Omega&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, during either player's Main Phase: You can banish this&#xA;  card from the field and 1 random card from your opponent's hand,&#xA;  face-up, until your next Standby Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mind Control&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target 1 monster your opponent controls; until the End Phase, take&#xA;  control of that target, but it cannot declare an attack or be&#xA;  Tributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7745" LastActivityDate="2018-02-11T02:57:27.607" Title="Omega vs Mind Control" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27257" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27258" CreationDate="2015-10-19T01:50:41.013" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mimic's text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ongoing: This minion's power is equal to the highest power printed on a minion card in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the power of 'Mimic' while it is in the deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.E. can a G.E.L.F. or Sprout pull it from the deck if Zombie Lord is in play??&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9755" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T02:48:04.110" Title="What is the power of 'Mimic' while it is in the deck?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27257" CreationDate="2015-10-19T02:48:04.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ongoing abilities are active only when the minion is in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it is in the deck, the Mimic uses it's listed power of 0.  Any ability that can affect a minion of power 0 in the deck can affect the Mimic&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T02:48:04.110" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27265" CreationDate="2015-10-19T12:03:24.400" Score="4" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last weekend my group played Battlestar Galactica's Exodus Expansion using the Ionian Nebula option. In a determined moment of the game, an Ally Card was located at the Sickbay (it was Simon O'Neill, but the same applied to Dr. Cottle in a later moment in the game). My question is, considering that players cannot move their characters on their own to the Sickbay and an encounter with Allies only occurs after the Movement Step of a player, when an encounter with an Ally in Sickbay or Brig should happen? My thougths are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players sent to Sickbay can encounter an Ally in Sickbay if they stay in Sickbay in his Movement Step (this is possible?). If they move out from the Sickbay, they do not encounter the Ally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players sent to Brig must encounter an Ally in Brig while they are in the Brig&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T17:55:59.340" Title="Allies Cards in Sickbay/Brig" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|exodus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27207" CreationDate="2015-10-19T12:17:32.010" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you stop the collect you can move again Red pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14079" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T12:17:32.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27263" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-19T16:27:36.957" Score="2" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;How much mana should I put in a deck with Mountains and Forests? How much of each? I counted the mana in my black deck to see how much I need, but I still don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14080" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-19T17:12:29.583" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T17:12:29.583" Title="How much mana should I put in my deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2015-10-19T17:14:17.273" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27260" CreationDate="2015-10-19T17:06:35.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why they would be treated any different.  The rules say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of a player’s Movement step, if his character is in the&#xA;  same location as an ally token, he must encounter that token’s&#xA;  corresponding Ally Card before proceeding to his Action phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because you don't leave those areas voluntarily doesn't mean you don't have a Movement step.  At the point in your turn where Movement would occur, if you end that step in the same location as an ally, encounter them.  Also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may only encounter an ally on his turn and may encounter only&#xA;  one ally per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So clearly you do not encounter the ally at the time that you are sent to Brig or Medbay, but wait until the Movement step of your own turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T17:06:35.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27260" CreationDate="2015-10-19T17:55:59.340" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your guess is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of a player’s Movement step, if his character is in the same location as an ally token, he must encounter that token’s corresponding Ally Card before proceeding to his Action phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the brig, you cannot leave during your movement step voluntarily. Leaving will normally occur as a result of using the action on the brig space. You still have a Movement step, so you're going to encounter the ally before you take an action from a card or on the brig space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may move out of “Sickbay” without difficulty, but&#xA;  not the “Brig.” They may only move out of the “Brig” by&#xA;  passing the skill check listed on the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Sickbay, you wait until your turn and would have to decide to remain there during your Movement step. It says &quot;may move out&quot;, so you're clearly allowed to stay. This means, however, that you may be starting your next turn there as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1091" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T17:55:59.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16822" CreationDate="2015-10-19T18:29:13.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's nothing in the revised rules for adding &quot;success,&quot; but it looks like it might just be a typo. When the game wants you to roll another die, it will use the word die/dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Book contains chess strategies. The explorer who has it can add&#xA;  one die (maximum eight dice) to Knowledge rolls attempted while&#xA;  playing chess against Death.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the term &quot;extra success&quot; in the revised rulebook, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/BHH_TraitorRev_120105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here's&lt;/a&gt; the errata.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Bear adds 2 successes to its Might attack roll when it initiates&#xA;  an attack (not when it's being attacked). The Crocodile adds 1 success&#xA;  to its Might attack roll when it initiates an attack (not when it's&#xA;  being attacked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And always remember the golden rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What If There Isn’t a Rule for That? Many hours went into playtesting&#xA;  this game, but it’s still possible you’ll run into situations where&#xA;  the game rules or haunt books don’t clearly answer a question about&#xA;  game play. Don’t let that slow you down. In such cases, come to an&#xA;  agreement as a group for what makes the most sense and go with it. (If&#xA;  that doesn’t work, fl ip a coin to decide.) Then continue your&#xA;  experience in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T18:29:13.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25240" CreationDate="2015-10-19T21:55:04.263" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't lose sight of the bonuses for long route segments. For instance, in the Europe version there is only one eight route segment worth as much as a long route all by itself.  Folks can get so caught up in the routes that they lose sight of the points available by simply grabbing long segments.  There is an added benefit that grabbing random long segments might mess up an opponents route segment plans for their formal routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14029" LastActivityDate="2015-10-19T21:55:04.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27269" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27272" CreationDate="2015-10-20T11:18:45.823" Score="19" ViewCount="22689" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've never played Pandemic, but thinking of getting the Legacy edition. Is it possible to play it without the legacy elements a few times first, and get an experience that is same or similar to that of the regular Pandemic?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14088" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T18:49:57.133" LastActivityDate="2018-06-26T02:54:59.757" Title="Can Pandemic Legacy be played as &quot;vanilla&quot; Pandemic?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27203" CreationDate="2015-10-20T11:31:27.797" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will not be able to cast a spell for its alternative cost if the CMC is even regardless of whether the alternative cost is uneven. You cannot evoke Æthersnipe with this monstrosity in play even if the evoke cost is uneven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheer Drop has uneven CMC which makes it a legal play even when cast for a even alternative cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winnower only ask what is the CMC of the card played? If it is even it cannot be played regardless whether it is cast normally or with any other alternate cost (even or uneven.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="6676" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T13:12:30.970" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T13:12:30.970" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27269" CreationDate="2015-10-20T15:06:47.527" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you could play something very similar to vanilla Pandemic using just the base game components and ignoring all the Legacy elements.  The board is slightly different, but you probably won't even notice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can really only do this before you start playing the legacy version though.  Once you start playing the legacy version, things will happen that will modify the game in ways that will quickly make it difficult or impossible to play the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-10-20T15:06:47.527" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2015-10-20T23:39:13.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Decks like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgvault.com/dedwards/decks/eldrazi-spawn/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Eldrazi Spawn&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Spawn&lt;/a&gt; rely on swarming the field with Eldrazi Spawn tokens that you can sacrifice for colorless mana. If you manage to get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrowth%20Spasm%5d&quot;&gt;Growth Spasm&lt;/a&gt; in play, it becomes really easy to spam the field with tokens and play the big three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="394" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T09:57:46.517" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:57:46.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27276" CreationDate="2015-10-21T06:21:22.637" Score="3" ViewCount="3558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm specifically looking at interactions with Descendant's Path. If I have an enchantment creature on the battlefield, let's say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aegis%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Aegis of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;, and then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Descendants%27%20Path&quot;&gt;Descendants&amp;#39; Path&lt;/a&gt; reveals &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Agent%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Agent of Erebos&lt;/a&gt;, does the shared 'Enchantment Creature' feature allow Agent of Erebos to come into play, or does the Path just look at the Human Soldier and and Zombie part, putting the Agent on the bottom of my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14095" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T06:32:21.857" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T06:39:07.867" Title="Is 'Enchantment Creature' a creature type?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27275" CreationDate="2015-10-21T06:39:07.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, possible card types are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;300.1. The card types are artifact, conspiracy, creature, enchantment, instant, land, phenomenon, plane, planeswalker, scheme, sorcery, tribal, and vanguard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Agent of Erebos shares the type with Aegis of the Gods. However, Desendants' Path looks not at the card type, but on Creature Type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.3. Creature subtypes are always a single word and are listed after a long dash: “Creature — Human Soldier,” “Artifact Creature — Golem,” and so on. Creature subtypes are also called creature types. Creatures may have multiple subtypes. See rule 205.3m for the complete list of creature types.&#xA;  Example: “Creature — Goblin Wizard” means the card is a creature with the subtypes Goblin and Wizard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aegis and Agent don't share a creature (sub)type, therefore you will have to put the Agent on the bottom of your library unless you control more creatures one of which is a Zombie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T06:39:07.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27278" CreationDate="2015-10-21T09:32:12.750" Score="4" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devouring%20Greed&quot;&gt;Devouring Greed&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an additional cost to cast Devouring Greed, you may sacrifice any number of Spirits. Target player loses 2 life plus 2 life for each Spirit sacrificed this way. You gain that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this only apply to cards that have a type/class of &amp;quot;Creature - Spirit&amp;quot; or does it include cards with a class of &amp;quot;Dragon Spirit&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Demon Spirit&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have tried to research this but can't figure out the correct terms to search for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14064" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T13:01:27.853" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T13:01:27.853" Title="Clarification of &quot;spirits&quot; on &quot;Devouring Greed&quot; card" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27277" CreationDate="2015-10-21T09:57:37.987" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a little more research and finding some loosely related info on another question here I found the following in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;302.3. Creature subtypes are always a single word and are listed after a long dash: &quot;Creature -- Human Soldier,&quot; &quot;Artifact Creature -- Golem,&quot; and so on. Creature subtypes are also called creature types. Creatures may have multiple subtypes. See rule 205.3m for the complete list of creature types.&#xA;  Example: &quot;Creature -- Goblin Wizard&quot; means the card is a creature with the subtypes Goblin and Wizard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature has a subtype of &quot;demon spirit&quot;, it is a &quot;demon&quot; and a &quot;spirit&quot; which I believe satisfies the &quot;spirits&quot; requirement of &quot;Devouring Greed&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14064" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T09:57:37.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27279" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27281" CreationDate="2015-10-21T10:32:53.937" Score="16" ViewCount="14519" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that the player going first has a considerable advantage in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the game balance that out for the player going second?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm new to the game, there might be something I'm missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10142" LastActivityDate="2023-05-03T01:56:55.387" Title="In Magic, is the player going first advantaged?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27279" CreationDate="2015-10-21T10:48:27.170" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game balances first player advantage because the start player does not draw a card at the beginning of his first turn, but the second player does draw a card during his first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule that says it is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;103.7a In a two-player game, the player who plays first skips the draw step (see rule 504, “Draw Step”) of his or her first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this does balance the game somewhat, &lt;a href=&quot;https://strategy.channelfireball.com/all-strategy/mtg/channelmagic-articles/play-or-draw/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; by Florian Koch shows that the start player still has a small statistical advantage. Koch points out that other factors could influence the results, including the skill level of the players and the decks being played (including knowledge of what deck your opponent is playing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you didn't know, if you win the coin toss (or dice roll) it doesn't mean you have to begin, it means you decide whether you want to begin. There are players who actually don't want to begin; some decks prefer the extra card instead of the turn advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="5732" LastEditDate="2022-04-05T05:51:35.750" LastActivityDate="2022-04-05T05:51:35.750" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29597" CreationDate="2015-10-21T12:56:24.620" Score="3" ViewCount="647" Body="&lt;p&gt;I picked up Cranium: Turbo Edition at a yard sale for a couple dollars, and everything is in great condition except that the electronic timer centerpiece is missing. I figured I could replace the color selection and timer functionality with the die and hourglass from my copy of the original game, but is there any other functionality that I'm missing out on? Is the length of the electronic timer the same as the old hourglass? Are the color probabilities the same as an old die roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8013" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-10-21T13:03:19.797" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:36:51.010" Title="What do I need to replace Cranium: Turbo Edition's electronic timer?" Tags="|cranium|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27277" CreationDate="2015-10-21T12:57:19.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A card may have several creature types but at least one of them has to be spirit for them to be able to get sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T12:57:19.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27279" CreationDate="2015-10-21T13:02:10.503" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is balanced out by the fact that the player who goes first skips his first draw step. There has been formats where going first basically won you the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Urza block combo era of the late 90's was infamous for having an early game (The coin flip), a mid game the mulligan and a late game turn one but that was a more extreme example from MTG's past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the current standard where midrange decks reign supreme a player is playing multiple taplands in the first two turns meaning who goes first is not as important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T13:02:10.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27285" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27286" CreationDate="2015-10-21T13:20:43.653" Score="10" ViewCount="7089" Body="&lt;p&gt;This actually pertains to a deck I played long (about 15 years) ago, but I've always wondered as to the correct ruling.  The deck in question had lots of banding and trample creatures, so that in the end I would attack with a band that had a large amount of trampling creatures in it.  For sake of argument, lets say my band has 15 points of trampling damage and 5 points of non-trampling damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These bands would typically be blocked by more than one creature. Let's say I was blocked by a 1/1 and a 8/8. My rule of thumb for banding was that an attacking band get to distribute damage as it likes.  So I would assign all damage to the smallest creature (1/1).  That creature would absorb the 5 points of non-trampling damage and my opponent would take all 15 points of trampling damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trampling specifies that only leftover damage after dealing lethal damage to  all blocking creatures would then trample over to the player, and banding is... complicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: does the banding ability to choose how damage is assigned trump the trampling requirement that all creatures must be assigned lethal damage first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14092" LastActivityDate="2018-06-22T03:38:02.823" Title="Damage distribution with Banding and Trample" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27285" CreationDate="2015-10-21T13:53:31.063" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When attacking with creatures that have some combination of Banding and Trample you must still deal lethal damage to all blocking creatures before you can deal damage to the defending player (or the Planeswalker you attacked).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 702.21k explains how banding affects combat damage when attacking. Basically it allows you to ignore the damage assignment order the defending player chooses, and you assign damage to your creatures as you choose. It does nothing for how you assign combat damage to the defending creatures (or players or planeswalkers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 702.19b explains how trample works. This rule doesn't change the rules for assigning combat damage to creatures, but allows for once all blocking creatures have been dealt lethal damage any remaining damage may be assigned to the player or planeswalker that creature is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you have an attacking band (at least 1 of which has trample), and the band gets blocked by multiple creatures you must assign lethal damage to all blocking creatures before you can trample over any damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.21k&lt;/strong&gt; During the combat damage step, if a blocking creature is blocking a creature with banding [...] the active player (rather than the defending player) chooses how the blocking creature’s damage is assigned. That player can divide that creature’s combat damage as he or she chooses among any number of creatures it’s blocking. This is an exception to the procedure described in rule 510.1d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.19b&lt;/strong&gt; The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking. [...] &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The attacking creature’s controller need not assign lethal damage to all those blocking creatures but in that case can’t assign any damage to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1d&lt;/strong&gt; A blocking creature assigns combat damage to the creatures it’s blocking. If it isn’t currently blocking any creatures (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. If it’s blocking exactly one creature, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature. If it’s blocking two or more creatures, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocking creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that it’s blocking unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocked creature is assigned lethal damage. When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. An amount of damage that’s greater than a creature’s lethal damage may be assigned to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T16:41:25.317" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27285" CreationDate="2015-10-21T13:54:49.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't really played with banding, but here are my thoughts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you attack as a band, each creature in a band becomes blocked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.21h If an attacking creature becomes blocked by a creature, each other creature in the same band as the attacking creature becomes&#xA;  blocked by that same blocking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can then choose how to assign damage to blockers. Let's assume blockers don't have banding (special rules apply).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trample ruling gives us the answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. &lt;strong&gt;Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking. When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step&lt;/strong&gt;, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. The attacking creature’s controller need not assign lethal damage to all those blocking creatures but in that case can’t assign any damage to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in your example, you need to assign lethal damage to all blocking creatures (since they block all of your creatures in a band) before being able to assign damage to a player, but you count all damage assigned by other creatures. The best way would be to assign your 5 non-trampling damage to a 8/8 creature. Then use assign leftover 3 damage and also 1 damage for 1/1 from your tramplers. All blockers are now assigned lethal damage, and you are now able to deal the 11 damage left from your tramplers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T13:54:49.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27289" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T16:57:44.577" Score="0" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested whether there are surveys of the best board games put out by board game manufacturers or evaluators such as gaming magazines or boardgamegeek that are considered authoritative. Or is there an official popularity competition between board games or a world cup of board games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14097" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T13:07:37.177" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T13:07:37.177" Title="Are there quasi &quot;official&quot; rankings of board games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-10-21T19:08:48.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27289" CreationDate="2015-10-21T17:06:23.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; is a very comprehensive list of board games, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/browse/boardgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their relative rankings&lt;/a&gt;, and reviews, commentary, and more for all things board games. They also have a convention, the BGG.CON.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14092" LastEditorUserId="11743" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T19:13:16.273" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T19:13:16.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-21T21:28:05.670" Score="6" ViewCount="1114" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/docs/MagicCompRules_20150926.txt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic the Gathering's rules&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3f If a player would both win and lose the game simultaneously, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it seems to me like it &amp;quot;ought to be&amp;quot; the case that if there are only 2 players and [A loses] ​ [B loses] ​ [B wins] would occur simultaneously, then B should win, since win-and-lose-simultaneously should be better than just-lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For that reason, it seems like this would make more sense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proposed Alternative If, simultaneously, all players would lose the game and some players would win the game, then the players who would not win the game lose the game, and the game is a draw between the remaining players. ​ Otherwise, if a player would both win and lose the game simultaneously, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I can't think of any situations in which that would matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Are there any possible situations in which my proposed alternative would yield a different result from the actual rule?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13741" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditorDisplayName="user13741" LastEditDate="2022-12-27T12:07:34.550" LastActivityDate="2022-12-27T12:07:34.550" Title="Would this hypothetical rule change about winning and losing simultaneously ever matter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27294" CreationDate="2015-10-21T21:52:15.893" Score="5" ViewCount="1982" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation: I have 9 poison counters and no card in my library, and I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laboratory%20Maniac&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steady%20Progress&quot;&gt;Steady Progress&lt;/a&gt;, and I choose to proliferate the poison counters on me. Do I win the game due to Laboratory Maniac's ability before state-based actions would cause me to lose from having 10 poison counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T15:06:52.617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T15:06:52.617" Title="Does Laboratory Maniac's ability cause me to win before state-based actions are triggered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27292" CreationDate="2015-10-21T21:57:18.133" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Laboratory Maniac is a replacement effect. The entire effect of Steady Progress has to be carried out, so I believe that you would win before state-based actions would occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.4. Unlike triggered abilities, state-based actions pay no attention to what happens during the resolution of a spell or ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T21:57:18.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27292" CreationDate="2015-10-21T21:57:42.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would win because the Maniac's ability replaces the drawing a card with winning the game, so you win before SBA are checked and you lose the game due to having 10 poison counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen—they aren’t locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like “shields” around whatever they’re affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.1a&lt;/strong&gt; Effects that use the word “instead” are replacement effects. Most replacement effects use the word “instead” to indicate what events will be replaced with other events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the card draw is getting replaced with winning the game during the resolution of the spell you will win as the spell is resolving. Since you won the game during the resolution of the spell you never get to the point where the game checks SBAs (including losing the game due to having 10 poison counters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-21T22:04:47.120" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27298" CreationDate="2015-10-21T23:15:45.653" Score="13" ViewCount="6919" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Steady%20Progress&quot;&gt;Steady Progress&lt;/a&gt; allows you to choose any player, and put another counter on them, of a type that already is on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am only aware of poison counters on players.  Are there others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T06:34:18.420" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T17:46:46.357" Title="What counters can be attached to a player?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27298" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27296" CreationDate="2015-10-21T23:53:30.777" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;At present, there are four types of counters that can be placed on players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poison (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%7C%5B%22poison%20counter%22%5D%7C%5Bpoisoned%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Originally seen in Legends, prevalent in Scars of Mirrodin block&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Experience (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22experience%20counter%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander 2015&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Energy (written as {E}) (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%7BE%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kaladesh&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tickets (written as {TK}) (&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3A%7BTK%7D&amp;amp;unique=cards&amp;amp;as=grid&amp;amp;order=name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Unfinity&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can search through Scryfall for cards that give players counters to determine that those are the only ones. As we can see with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caress%20of%20Phyrexia&quot;&gt;Caress of Phyrexia&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aether%20Hub&quot;&gt;Aether Hub&lt;/a&gt;, cards that explicitly put specific kinds of counters on players use the wording&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Player] get(s) [amount] [counter description]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Scryfall supports regular expression search, we can turn that into a regular expression to search for cards with that wording. For now, let's see what we get if we pretend that counters are the only things players can get. We can search for that with the following regular expression:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=re%3A%22%28player%7Copponent%7Cyou%29+%28get%7Cgets%29%5Cb%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;re:&amp;quot;(player|opponent|you) (get|gets)\b&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This mostly finds relevant cards, but it also finds some irrelevant cards, including planeswalkers that grant emblems and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Paradox%20Haze&quot;&gt;Paradox Haze&lt;/a&gt;. So, we can also exclude cards that give players emblems or additional votes or steps, or make players get you something:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3A%2F%28player%7Copponent%7Cyou%29+%28get%7Cgets%29%5Cb%28%3F%21+%28%5C%2B%7C-%7Cyou%7Can+emblem%7Can+additional%7Ca+boon%29%29%2F+-is%3Afunny&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;o:/(player|opponent|you) (get|gets)\b(?! (+|-|you|an emblem|an additional|a boon))/ -is:funny&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same search before, but it looks at the next word to exclude sentences like &amp;quot;target opponent gets you [something]&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;you get an emblem&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;that player gets an additional [something]&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;creatures attacking you get -1/-0&amp;quot;, and &amp;quot;you get a boon...&amp;quot;. It also removes joke cards. This results in 83 cards, all of which put some sort of counter on a player. A visual inspection shows that they all add poison, experience, energy, or ticket counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2024-01-16T17:46:46.357" LastActivityDate="2024-01-16T17:46:46.357" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-22T02:28:21.823" Score="3" ViewCount="6834" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yrMzC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yrMzC.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mindslaver, Academy Ruins, and supporting lands&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a Mindslaver Lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMindslaver%5d&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; controls an opponent's next turn — all actions and decision-making, short of conceding outright — completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ten mana (produced by &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?subtype=%20[Urza]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the double-tower &quot;UrzaTron&quot;&lt;/a&gt;, in this example) is used to cast and activate Mindslaver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAcademy%20Ruins%5d&quot;&gt;Academy Ruins&lt;/a&gt; (and 1U to pay for the activation) is used to put Mindslaver back on top of the library, to be drawn and activated again next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since resetting Mindslaver costs a draw step, no additional win condition is necessary: you'll eventually just deck your opponent (similar to how Stasis decks operate).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the more powerful locks in competitive Magic (used in the Modern format, to be precise), since it denies your opponent the ability to attack, access their lands' mana, or cast any Sorcery-speed spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how absolute of a lock is it, exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assuming the player who set up the Mindslaver lock is using all of their resources to maintain it (as shown in the graphic above), what recourse does the player under the lock have for escaping it once it's already in place?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2017-01-27T19:36:07.623" Title="How 'hard' is a Mindslaver lock?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27299" CreationDate="2015-10-22T04:21:07.837" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The primary threat to the Mindslaver player is a free instant that cannot be wasted. The simplest example is if the opponent starts out with no cards in hand, and then draws &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporal%20Mastery&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt; followed by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20of%20Will&quot;&gt;Force of Will&lt;/a&gt;, and they have fewer than 12 lands. The Mindslaver player cannot afford to give the opponent an extra turn outside of the lock, and they can't waste the spells by countering the Temporal Mastery with the Force of Will. But even if they tap all of the opponent's lands, the opponent can still counter the Mindslaver on the following turn, and spend at least one turn outside of the lock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, you can replace Temporal Mastery with any blue spell that either has no legal targets during the opponent's turn or cannot be cast without severely damaging the lock. Alternatively, Force of Will can be replaced with another free counterspell such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Foil&quot;&gt;Foil&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thwart&quot;&gt;Thwart&lt;/a&gt;. If the opponent is very lucky, they could even draw &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Commandeer&quot;&gt;Commandeer&lt;/a&gt; and two blue spells that the Mindslaver player doesn't want cast. If the Mindslaver player is using &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of their resources to maintain the lock, even &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daze&quot;&gt;Daze&lt;/a&gt; can break it. Even &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pact%20of%20Negation&quot;&gt;Pact of Negation&lt;/a&gt; would work, because the opponent would be able to choose to pay the cost on their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that of the spells mentioned, only Commandeer and Pact of Negation are Modern legal (along with Temporal Mastery, but that's kind of tangential).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T04:21:07.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27299" CreationDate="2015-10-22T05:02:28.457" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any of the following will put a clock on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Felidar%20Sovereign&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt; combined with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22upkeep,%20you%20gain%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mandatory life-gain&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=265418&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Azor's Elocutors&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laboratory%20Maniac&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=180620&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mayael's Aria&lt;/a&gt; combined with a creature whose power is 5 or greater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any of the following &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; put a clock on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Restore%20Balance&quot;&gt;Restore Balance&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22attacks%20each%20turn%20if%20able%22%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Modern%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;creatures that attack each turn if able&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22beginning%20of%20each%20player%27s%20upkeep%22%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Modern%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;anything that automatically causes the locker to lose life&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lust%20for%20War&quot;&gt;Lust for War&lt;/a&gt; is another example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Near-Death%20Experience&quot;&gt;Near-Death Experience&lt;/a&gt; combined with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22your%20upkeep,%20you%20lose%22%5D&amp;amp;format=%5B%22Modern%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;automatic life-loss&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mortal%20Combat&quot;&gt;Mortal Combat&lt;/a&gt; (when the lockee is not necessarily able to cast his/her creature cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, although it wouldn't escape the lock, the lock would not automatically beat &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; or 8 graveyard-to-library cards in the hand/library &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22into%20its%20owner%27s%20library%22%5D&amp;amp;format=+%5B%22Modern%22%5D&amp;amp;cmc=+%3E=%5B10%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;that the lockee can't cast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13741" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T06:59:10.847" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T06:59:10.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-22T10:12:27.827" Score="3" ViewCount="41" Body="&lt;p&gt;When attacking with &lt;strong&gt;The Master&lt;/strong&gt; it says that it can be &lt;em&gt;combined with any enemy card&lt;/em&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when I place The Master first: &lt;strong&gt;does it mean I can add any enemy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then when I attack with a certain enemy and place The Master with it in succeeding turns, can I still add another card to combine with The Master?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14104" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-12-12T04:20:33.810" LastActivityDate="2017-12-12T04:20:33.810" Title="The Master combinations in Dr Who the Card Game" Tags="|doctor-who-the-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27302" CreationDate="2015-10-22T10:22:36.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the rulebook it stated there &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can add Enemy cards to one of your attacks, as long as the card&#xA;  or cards you play can be legally played with the cards already in&#xA;  place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on my understanding, if &lt;em&gt;The Master&lt;/em&gt; is already in play along with another enemy, the enemy card you are going to add &lt;strong&gt;should&lt;/strong&gt; be legally played with the cards. (meaning all of the cards) including the other enemy cards with &lt;em&gt;The Master&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14105" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T10:22:36.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27308" CreationDate="2015-10-22T13:03:53.893" Score="2" ViewCount="1165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sporesower%20Thallid&quot;&gt;Sporesower Thallid&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Retreat%20to%20Emeria&quot;&gt;Retreat to Emeria&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kalastria%20Healer&quot;&gt;Kalastria Healer&lt;/a&gt;. Then I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt; and I choose Ally as Creature type. Then I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20and%20Limb&quot;&gt;Life and Limb&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will future Saproling tokens, made by the Sporesower Thallid, trigger both the Retreats Landfall ability, and the Healers triggered ability, when allies enters the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Will future played forests do the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;What will happen to forests already in play under my control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7268" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T13:08:01.200" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:06:35.330" Title="How does Life and Limb interact with Conspiracy" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27304" CreationDate="2015-10-22T13:23:46.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work exactly how you want because Conspiracy overwrites any existing creature types, so all of your creatures will be Allies with no other creature types, except your Forests which will be Saprolings (and not Allies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.1a&lt;/strong&gt; [...] Similarly, when an effect sets one or more of an object’s subtypes, the new subtype(s) replaces any existing subtypes from the appropriate set (creature types, land types, artifact types, enchantment types, planeswalker types, or spell types). [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you replace Conspiracy with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xenograft&quot;&gt;Xenograft&lt;/a&gt; though it will work probably like you are hoping, since Xenograft adds creature types in addition to any types they already had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Xenograft set to Ally all of your Saprolings and Forests will have the type line Land Creature - Forest Ally Saproling. This means that all future Forests or Saprolings will indeed trigger Landfall and Rally abilities. All Forests or Saprolings that are already on the battlefield will become Land Creature - Forest Ally Saprolings but will not trigger Landfall or Rally abilities because they are already on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T14:06:35.330" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:06:35.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27306" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:01:12.530" Score="0" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title says, can a blocking creature fight? If so, what happens if the blocking creature dies before damage is dealt? How would damage be dealt during combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Creature A is a 2/2 and it is blocking creature B, which is also 2/2. Before combat damage, I cast an instant forcing creature A to fight creature C, another 2/2, so that both A and C die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14106" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-22T18:39:41.333" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T18:39:41.333" Title="Can a blocking creature fight? How is damage dealt if it dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-10-22T22:09:14.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27306" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:04:57.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cast such an instant after declaring blockers, the following will happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your creature A will fight creature C and they will both die. Creature B will still be blocked, and thus will not deal any damage to you unless it has trample.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:04:57.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27304" CreationDate="2015-10-22T14:05:38.450" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conspiracy&quot;&gt;Conspiracy&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20and%20Limb&quot;&gt;Life and Limb&lt;/a&gt; both apply in Layer 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1d Layer 4: Type-changing effects are applied. These include effects that change an object’s card type, subtype, and/or supertype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two effects apply in the same layer, they are normally applied in timestamp order (the order in which you played them). However, when a dependency exists between two effects, we ignore the timestamp system and instead follow a dependency system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.7a An effect is said to “depend on” another if (a) it’s applied in the same layer (and, if applicable, sublayer) as the other effect (see rules 613.1 and 613.3); (b) applying the other would change the text or the existence of the first effect, what it applies to, or what it does to any of the things it applies to; and (c) neither effect is from a characteristic-defining ability or both effects are from characteristic-defining abilities. Otherwise, the effect is considered to be independent of the other effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life and Limb depends on Conspiracy. Life and Limb applies to Saprolings, but Conspiracy changes your Saprolings into Allies. Therefore, Conspiracy changes what Life and Limb applies to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conspiracy depends on Life and Limb. Conspiracy applies to Saprolings, but Life and Limb turns your Forests into Saprolings. Therefore, Life and Limb changes what Conspiracy applies to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a dependency loop, so we revert back to just applying the effects in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.7b An effect dependent on one or more other effects waits to apply until just after all of those effects have been applied. If multiple dependent effects would apply simultaneously in this way, they’re applied in timestamp order relative to each other. If several dependent effects form a dependency loop, then this rule is ignored and the effects in the dependency loop are applied in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You played Conspiracy first, so by combination of the rules above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Conspiracy's effect first. All of your creatures become Allies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Life and Limb's effect second. All of your Forests become Saprolings in addition to their other types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that all of your creatures are now allies, except for your Forests which are now Forest Saprolings (but not Allies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phew! That was a mouthful. Now I can answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will future Saproling tokens, made by the Sporesower Thallid, trigger both the Retreats Landfall ability, and the Healers triggered ability, when allies enters the battlefield?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Saprolings will enter as Allies. They will trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kalastria%20Healer&quot;&gt;Kalastria Healer&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, but not Landfall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will future played forests do the same?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forests will enter as Forest Saprolings. They will trigger landfall, but not Healer's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What will happen to forests already in play under my control?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They will be Forest Saprolings, but not Allies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T14:05:38.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-10-22T21:09:39.170" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you do not have to pay.&#xA;If a property is mortgaged no rent can be collected.  I think that rule trumps the wording on the card.&#xA;The wording on the card does in fact differ from the railroad chance card(s) or any other property chance card; this is because the rent works differently for utilities.&#xA;I believe the wording &quot;IF OWNED, throw dice and pay owner a total ten times amount thrown.&quot; was not meant to allow rent collection when mortgaged but rather to give the owner 10 times amount even if only one utility is owned (as opposed to the regular 4 times).     &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14109" LastActivityDate="2015-10-22T21:09:39.170" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2015-10-22T22:25:06.890" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No; you do not pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Rules of Monopoly&lt;/a&gt; on the Hasbro web site under heading &lt;em&gt;Mortgages&lt;/em&gt; (my &lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No rent can be collected on mortgaged properties &lt;strong&gt;or utilities&lt;/strong&gt;, but rent can be collected on unmortgaged properties in the same group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me this is unequivocal - no payment, whether or not denoted as &lt;em&gt;rent&lt;/em&gt;, is ever collected on a property that is face down due to being mortgaged. Not carefully the wording &quot;&lt;em&gt;in the same group&lt;/em&gt;&quot;, and that it does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; say &#xA;&quot;&lt;em&gt;in the same colour group&lt;/em&gt;&quot;; thus clearly indicating an applicability to railroads as well as coloured properties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While an omission from the rules may, depending on circumstance, be regarded as an oversight, I can think of no reason why an explicit &lt;em&gt;inclusion&lt;/em&gt; in the rules should not always be taken at face value. Clearly there is an omission about whether or not &lt;em&gt;rent&lt;/em&gt; includes payment for landing on a Utility. However the explicit &lt;em&gt;exclusion&lt;/em&gt; of payment for landing on a mortgaged utility is clearly an intentional inclusion - so payment is not due under this circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the rules never make any distinction on how one lands on a square, to suppose that there is intended to be one for advancing to a Utility in consequence to drawing a Chance or Community Chest card is completely unreasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The claim is being made in comments that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Your answer seems to be based on an implicit assumption that the payment demanded by the card is rent, or that when that rule says &quot;rent&quot; it means &quot;rent or other payments&quot;, but it doesn't say that and neither do the rules.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I submit as counter argument this quote, again from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Rules of Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paying Rent&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;When you land on property owned by another player, the owner collects rent in accordance with the list provided on the Title Deed Card.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the clear implication (&lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt;), that the payments collected in consequence to landing on a property owned by another player are properly termed &quot;rent&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update - from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tmk.edu.ee/~creature/monopoly/download/official_rules_gathering/official_tournament_kit_tournament_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Tournament Guide for Monopoly&lt;/a&gt;, Page 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paying Rent on a Utility&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  you throw the dice and land on Water Works or the Electric&#xA;  Company and another player owns them, don’t touch the dice. See what the total is.&#xA;  Multiply that number by 4 if your opponent only owns one utility, or by 10 if he/she owns&#xA;  both of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Paying Rent on a Fully Owned Property Group&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Suppose your opponent owns a complete color-group — for example, all three reds — with no buildings on any of them. If you land on one of the reds, you have to pay double its rent. But suppose one of the reds — e.g. Indiana Avenue — is mortgaged and you land on Illinois, it is unmortgaged. How much rent do you pay? Double, even though Indiana is mortgaged, your opponent still owns it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this &lt;em&gt;Official&lt;/em&gt; guide explicitly refers to the amount paid for landing on a utility as &lt;em&gt;rent&lt;/em&gt;. And the Rules otherwise clearly state that &lt;em&gt;rent&lt;/em&gt; is not paid for landing on mortgaged property.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2017-12-16T20:00:14.060" LastActivityDate="2017-12-16T20:00:14.060" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27313" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27315" CreationDate="2015-10-23T12:55:10.377" Score="10" ViewCount="3903" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I know that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bogbrew%20Witch&quot;&gt;Bogbrew Witch&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Festering%20Newt&quot;&gt;Festering Newt&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bubbling%20Cauldron&quot;&gt;Bubbling Cauldron&lt;/a&gt; all name each other in their rules text and I was wondering if there are any other cards that do this as well. How can I find more cards like that? (A list would certainly be useful, but how to find them would be even more useful.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T23:28:24.087" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T09:48:33.437" Title="MTG Cards that interact with each other by name" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27314" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27316" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:06:18.633" Score="7" ViewCount="14032" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I always thought that the Conspiracy set was allowed in Modern Format but I recently discovered that there are 65 cards that are not allowed. Can any give me a list or a link for a list of the cards that are or are not allowed in Modern play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-01-13T15:06:24.887" LastActivityDate="2022-01-13T15:06:24.887" Title="MTG Conspiracy cards allowed in modern" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27313" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:21:39.957" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creating a search query that returns all cards that reference other cards, without having false positives or false negatives is difficult, but I will show the kinds of things to search for to find some of them. All of these queries are using &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MagicCards.info&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;o:named&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the most basic one, it searches for all cards with &amp;quot;named&amp;quot; in their card text. This generates a lot of false positives, mostly cards that refer to themselves like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Accumulated%20Knowledge&quot;&gt;Accumulated Knowledge&lt;/a&gt;, cards that have someone name a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Booby%20Trap&quot;&gt;Booby Trap&lt;/a&gt;, or ones that create tokens with names like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boris%20Devilboon&quot;&gt;Boris Devilboon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part is always required, and will be left out of future queries for brevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-o:~&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This removes any cards that have their own name in the text box. This creates some false negatives from things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diligent%20Farmhand&quot;&gt;Diligent Farmhand&lt;/a&gt;, but also removes a large number of false positives (It removes about 100 cards from the results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-o:&amp;quot;name a card&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This removes any cards that have the text &amp;quot;name a card&amp;quot; in the text box. I don't think this creates any false negatives, but doesn't remove that many cards from the result (less than 20).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-o:&amp;quot;token named&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This removes any cards that have the text &amp;quot;token named&amp;quot; in their text box. Note that this only removes things with vanilla tokens (ie ones with no abilities), ones that have abilities like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wirefly%20Hive&quot;&gt;Wirefly Hive&lt;/a&gt; will still show up. It also removes the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Kaldra&quot;&gt;Helm of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt; since it produces a Kaldra token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining all of these into (with -is:silver-bordered to remove Un-cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Anamed+-o%3A%7E+-o%3A%22name+a+card%22+-o%3A%22names+a+card%22+-o%3A%22token+named%22+-is%3Asilver-bordered&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;o:named  -o:~ -o:&amp;quot;name a card&amp;quot; -o:&amp;quot;names a card&amp;quot; -o:&amp;quot;token named&amp;quot; -is:silver-bordered&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We get a list of 18 cards, 3 are false positives, and several cards like the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Kaldra&quot;&gt;Helm of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt; that don't show up, but it gives you a starting place to work from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Unspeakable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sift%20Through%20Sands&quot;&gt;Sift Through Sands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Peer%20Through%20Depths&quot;&gt;Peer Through Depths&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reach%20Through%20Mists&quot;&gt;Reach Through Mists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Unspeakable&quot;&gt;The Unspeakable&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Kaldra&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20Kaldra&quot;&gt;Helm of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shield%20of%20Kaldra&quot;&gt;Shield of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Kaldra&quot;&gt;Sword of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nissa&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nissa%20Revane&quot;&gt;Nissa Revane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=185699&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissa's Chosen&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Empire Artifacts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crown%20of%20Empires&quot;&gt;Crown of Empires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scepter%20of%20Empires&quot;&gt;Scepter of Empires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Throne%20of%20Empires&quot;&gt;Throne of Empires&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spiders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arachnus%20Spinner&quot;&gt;Arachnus Spinner&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arachnus%20Web&quot;&gt;Arachnus Web&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scion of Darkness&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Supplicant&quot;&gt;Dark Supplicant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20Darkness&quot;&gt;Scion of Darkness&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Spirit of Night&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Urborg%20Panther&quot;&gt;Urborg Panther&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feral%20Shadow&quot;&gt;Feral Shadow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Breathstealer&quot;&gt;Breathstealer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spirit%20of%20the%20Night&quot;&gt;Spirit of the Night&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Viashivan Dragon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kyscu%20Drake&quot;&gt;Kyscu Drake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spitting%20Drake&quot;&gt;Spitting Drake&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viashivan%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Viashivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternate Timeline Weapon-makers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Renowned%20Weaponsmith&quot;&gt;Renowned Weaponsmith&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heart-Piercer%20Bow&quot;&gt;Heart-Piercer Bow&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vial%20of%20Dragonfire&quot;&gt;Vial of Dragonfire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bant Angel&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175141&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Angels' Herald&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Empyrial%20Archangel&quot;&gt;Empyrial Archangel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Esper Sphinx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175242&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sphinx's Herald&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphinx%20Sovereign&quot;&gt;Sphinx Sovereign&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grixis Demon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175243&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Demon's Herald&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prince%20of%20Thralls&quot;&gt;Prince of Thralls&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Jund Dragon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175239&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dragon's Herald&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellkite%20Overlord&quot;&gt;Hellkite Overlord&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Naya Beast&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=175263&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Behemoth's Herald&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Godsire&quot;&gt;Godsire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bursts&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Muscle%20Burst&quot;&gt;Muscle Burst&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diligent%20Farmhand&quot;&gt;Diligent Farmhand&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flame%20Burst&quot;&gt;Flame Burst&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pardic%20Firecat&quot;&gt;Pardic Firecat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T11:01:18.103" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T11:01:18.103" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27314" CreationDate="2015-10-23T13:28:13.310" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards from Conspiracy are not legal in Modern unless they were already printed in a Modern legal set. There were 65 new cards in that set, 52 are legal in Legacy and Vintage the remaining 13 are not legal in any Constructed format. The 13 that aren't legal are the ones with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;special=true&amp;amp;type=%20[Conspiracy]&quot;&gt;Conspiracy type&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only things that add new cards to the Modern card pool are sets that are Standard legal. Supplementary sets like Conspiracy, Commander, or Planechase do not, new cards from those sets are only legal in Legacy and Vintage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-10-23T13:28:13.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27317" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-23T16:10:26.720" Score="4" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rest Spot (Fortune, from the search deck) reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play immediately. If there are no minions on the board, you may remove all wound markers from each mouse and place 1 cheese on the minion wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are minions on the board, what happens?  Nothing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quick forum scan seems to indicate that you might be able to discard the card for cheese but also say that you might be able to keep the card in your hand for later, which is not how I read the card.  Any idea on more formal ruling/rules guidance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T20:45:25.600" Title="If you find a rest spot and there are minions on the board what happens?" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27333" CreationDate="2015-10-23T17:58:25.130" Score="4" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;How do I decide who goes first and in what order players take their turns?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Do the rebel players start with any of the class cards specific to their character?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5811" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-10-23T18:26:42.713" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T22:49:23.173" Title="Star Wars Imperial Assault tutorial questions" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27319" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27326" CreationDate="2015-10-23T21:58:53.323" Score="5" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage of a 4-4 trump fit is that you can ruff in either hand, and use the other one as the master hand. But if one or both partners have little ruffing value, then might that advantage be minimal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither vulnerable, South dealt and bid 1NT. West passed, and you, North, hold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) AJ4 (h) KJ32 (d) J63 (c) 953.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The columnist wrote that: &amp;quot;North could have judged to bid 3NT with his flat hand instead of using Stayman; South probably would have made nine tricks.&amp;quot; I concur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But North bid 2 clubs, South 2 spades North 3NT and South bid 4 hearts, inferring that North had four hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;North knows that his hand has a 4-3-3-3 shape, and can infer that South's hand is likely 4-4-3-2 or 4-3-3-3, with 5-3-3-2 being the other main possibility. Does it make sense under the circumstances for North to avoid Stayman since the likely ruffing gains are minimal? Or should South have left North in 3NT inferring that North had 3-4 in the majors, and 3-3, or possibly 2-4/or 4-2 in the minors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2023-08-09T17:48:40.553" LastActivityDate="2023-08-09T17:48:40.553" Title="Do &quot;flat&quot; hands devalue a 4-4 trump fit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27320" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27322" CreationDate="2015-10-23T23:08:31.803" Score="8" ViewCount="1772" Body="&lt;p&gt;In MTG (or other games), if one player is dealt a strong hand, and the other a weak one, the first player is likely to win. Unless, of course, the first player plays much worse or is unlucky during the course of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does one evaluate the strength of a hand in MTG? This is NOT a question about when to take a mulligan (which applies only to the weaker hands), but is a general question about all hands, weak, average, strong, and even &quot;come&quot; hands. (An example of a &quot;come&quot; hand, from poker is four to a straight or a flush, that is weaker than one pair, but will be a very strong hand if it &quot;fills.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm using some examples from bridge, which I know better:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One has a disproportionate number of the most powerful cards (three or all four of the aces in the deck).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One has a large number of moderately powerful cards (e.g. face cards, not all aces).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One has a hand with only average &quot;raw&quot; strength, but that is highly co-ordinated (e.g. seven or eight cards of a single suit for trumps). This can be combined with having few low cards, and hence few weaknesses, in other suits.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One has &quot;position&quot;, e.g. by playing after an opponent with a slightly weaker hand, so it is easy to &quot;cancel&quot; or &quot;one-up&quot; him.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are similar, or analogous advantages in MTG? Are there &quot;standard&quot; evaluation methods, as there are in bridge (with its high card point count), or is it more of a situational thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T14:30:13.480" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T20:11:04.660" Title="How does one evaluate the &quot;strength&quot; of a hand in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="19" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11724" CreationDate="2015-10-24T00:01:47.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You were unlucky to run into sudden death. But Chuck knew what he was doing when he offered you the proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key to the game is that Britain receives reinforcements in November, 1941 for Operation Crusader that are almost equal in strength to your Afrika Korps. As a result, you need to do as much damage as possible to the earlier British forces before then. Ideally, you would have them on their &quot;last legs&quot; with one small force in Tobruk and another small one in Alexandria, with yourself having the &quot;run&quot; of the board. Chuck's &quot;gambit&quot; ensured that would not happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chuck had forces two and three deep in the hills around Tobruk. Even with better supply rolls, it would have taken you all summer (through at least September) to break Chuck's siege grip around Tobruk, and you have taken heavy casualties doing so. He would have had two further fallback lines at El Sollum and Mersa Matruh confronting you in October. By November, when the reinforcements arrived at Alexandria, he'd be in fine shape, with a good balance of power between the survivors of his original force, his reinforcements, and his depletion of your force through casualties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Britain's &quot;lifeline&quot; lies between Tobruk and Alexandria. The way for the Germans to win is to hammer at the line, taking out &quot;stepping stones&quot; like Sollum and Matruh, stretching the line to the maximum, and forcing the British to defend it, fighting on your terms, not theirs. They will experience heavy casualties against your more mobile concentrations, and then be forced into last-ditch defenses in Tobruk and Alexandria (ideally, you would have captured one of them before the reinforcements arrive). If you can &quot;equalize&quot; or better against Britain's Crusader force, moderately greater reinforcements in 1942 may give you chance to win at that time, if you haven't won already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T00:01:47.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27320" CreationDate="2015-10-24T00:53:05.273" Score="17" Body="&lt;h1&gt;A Good Hand is a Good Plan&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic plays rather differently from a traditional card game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most cards in Magic require other cards as resources (e.g. land to generate mana). They can only be played once you've sufficiently developed your board. An effective deck has a mixture of early-, mid-, and late-game cards; what exactly that means varies greatly depending on your strategy.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Many cards are situationally useful — they're good because of synergy with other cards, or because they're reactive cards that answer an opponent's plays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get to tailor the deck to a particular strategy (outside of a few &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; special game modes like Momir Basic and Rainbow Stairwell).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, most of the individual evaluative tricks don't work the same way at all. But that's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because, as you probably know, all of the evaluation tricks from bridge are cognitive shortcuts for figuring out the fundamental question: &lt;strong&gt;&quot;How will this hand play out?&quot;&lt;/strong&gt; That's what you need to figure out in Magic as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Look at your hand and imagine what you're going to do in the next few turns. Imagine what your opponent is going to do, too, based on whatever information you have about them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I'm going to run my opponents out of trumps and then all these low cards will be tricks.&quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&quot;I'm going to play some cheap creatures and use burn spells to clear the way while they apply repeated pressure.&quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&quot;I'm going to use counterspells to survive long enough to cast my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWrath%20of%20God%5d&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, then stick my planeswalker to control the board.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A good hand is, typically, one that presents some kind of coherent &quot;story&quot; or &quot;gameplan&quot; — ideally one that's powerful, fast, and resilient to disruption.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a starting point:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are you going to be doing on turn 1, turn 2, turn 3, et cetera?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have enough lands to develop your board?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have cards you can play early to help you stall or put pressure on your opponent? (Which do you actually need to do: stall or apply pressure? a.k.a. &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/fundamentals/3692_Whos_The_Beatdown.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Who's the beatdown?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's your opponent likely to do to disrupt you? What can you do to do to disrupt them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What's missing? What cards do you need to draw to shore up your weaknesses or make your strongest play? (A bit of poker experience may help here. It also helps to understand &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/level-one/playing-ahead-playing-behind-2015-03-30&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;playing to your outs&lt;/a&gt;.&quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that, beyond basics like &quot;Make sure you will be able to actually cast something,&quot; &lt;strong&gt;what actually constitutes a good or bad hand is highly situational&lt;/strong&gt;. Familiarity with your deck, with the metagame, and with general archetypes and strategies will all help immensely here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2017-03-17T20:11:04.660" LastActivityDate="2017-03-17T20:11:04.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2015-10-24T02:31:35.470" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yugioh cards find a creature card that represents the token it is supposed to be. You can buy one in playsets of 3 for 2$.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14123" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T07:17:39.137" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T07:17:39.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27324" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T04:10:49.313" Score="6" ViewCount="4644" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two questions, both not directly addressed in the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) During the Haunt, if I pick up the Madman card (gain 2 might, lose 1 sanity) and my sanity is already on the lowest value, do I die? Can Omen cards kill you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I did die and dropped the Madman, can a teammate send the Dog to pick up the Madman (assuming he is within 6 spaces)? Can the Dog retrieve (companion) Omen cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14124" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T01:43:13.853" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T01:43:13.853" Title="Can the Madman cause you to die from sanity loss? If so, can the dog retrieve him?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16676" CreationDate="2015-10-24T05:25:06.523" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a pattern that is consistent with all equilateral die. If n=number of sides of the dice and k=a number chosen on the die, then the number directly parallel to k = n-k+1; however this doesn't work for non-equilateral dice like the d10. I still don't know what the relation between k and the numbers adjacent to k is yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14125" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T05:25:06.523" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2015-10-24T09:34:33.017" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two separate questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Should N have bid 3NT straight off the bat? In my opinion, yes, at any form of scoring, for the reasons you mentioned, and also to conceal information about N and S's shape from West (think about how much easier the lead is after a Stayman auction than after 1NT - 3NT).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Given that N initiated a Stayman sequence, should S have developed a sufficient picture of N's hand to figure out that 3NT was the best spot anyway? No. From the auction, as far as S knows, N could have any number of spades between 0 and 3. (Experienced partnerships will probably have a way to show spade shortness here, by way of showing long minors, but doing this on middling hands that are likely to wind up in 3NT anyway is again a mistake, giving too much information to West.) Even if S could know that N has 3 spades, he still knows that N chose to initiate a Stayman sequence and should respect N's opinion that N's hand has ruffing values. (S has no information about shape that N doesn't have.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T09:34:33.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27324" CreationDate="2015-10-24T11:12:14.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played this game several times, and the way we played was as follows (regarding your questions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) You die from the loss of Sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) The dog can pick up the omen if he has enough mouvement to make it to the room (where the Madman is) and back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14015" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T11:12:14.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14015" CreationDate="2015-10-24T20:09:18.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our games of Star Fluxx with more than 2 players tend to go very quick once everyone has the cards understood. It then becomes a game of seeing if anyone can get the time traveler and the time portal, just for kicks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do have two house rules to extend the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 is we bring in zombie jamboree from zombie fluxx. Shuffling and redistributing the keepers and creepers can give the game a lot more longevity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 we bring in an extra creeper. We use the evil rabbit from monty python fluxx. We call this card the dick move card. It is considered evil, for the purposes of star fluxx rules and goals, but it has an extra action of making every OTHER player have to completely turn in all the cards in their hand and on the table. Even more than the zombie jamboree, this card can completely upset a game with 3 or more players, and extends the life of a game into 2 or 3 reshuffles of the discard pile.  This card restarts all players except the one who drew it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14128" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T20:09:18.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27329" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27330" CreationDate="2015-10-24T21:42:28.483" Score="4" ViewCount="1351" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Yig awakens, one of the rule items says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an investigator is defeated or devoured, that player is &lt;strong&gt;not eliminated&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the significance of this rule?  What is the non-eliminated player doing for the rest of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T21:49:49.267" Title="What is the reason for investigators not being eliminated when Yig awakens?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-forsaken-lore|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27329" CreationDate="2015-10-24T21:49:49.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player chooses a new investigator and keeps playing, which isn't the case for most ancient ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T21:49:49.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-24T22:03:52.323" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me clarify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off: I have a sheet of paper, 8 1/2&quot; by 8 1/2&quot;. What are the optimal dimensions (&lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;# of squares&gt; by &amp;lt;# of squares&gt;&lt;/em&gt;) of a checkerboard-patterned board that I could print on this sheet of paper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second: I'm creating a board in an image editor. The squares can be any dimensions (&lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;# of pixels&gt; by &amp;lt;# of pixels&gt;&lt;/em&gt;). What are the optimal dimensions of the squares themselves, and what is the optimal dimensions of the board (&lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;# of squares&gt; by &amp;lt;# of squares&gt;&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By optimal, I mean the most amount of squares that still looks aesthetically pleasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, I am open to different suggestions on what kind of &quot;tiles&quot; to use (i.e. squares or octagons or etc) and to what the dimensions are and sizes are. I merely chose checkerboard-style (square tiles) due to its ease of creation.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14129" LastEditorUserId="14129" LastEditDate="2015-10-24T22:34:30.260" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T22:34:30.260" Title="Optimal Dimensions for a Checkerboard-style board?" Tags="|chess|checkers|board-size|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-10-25T08:58:26.207" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27331" CreationDate="2015-10-24T22:28:41.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think 'optimal' is easy to answer without getting into personal preference. There are certainly minimal and maximal sizes. A good example of a very small grid would be Halma (or Go). A good example of a large grid would be human chess. As long as you can make out the pieces and see the whole board. So it depends on the size, complexity, variation and even degrees of freedom in movement of your pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also squares might not be your best option. Go uses rectangles, so that when you view the board at a normal playing angle it looks like a square grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T22:28:41.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27318" CreationDate="2015-10-24T22:49:23.173" Score="6" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The players decide which hero goes first, and in what order they go.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The rebel players start with all class cards that cost 0xp.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastActivityDate="2015-10-24T22:49:23.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22468" CreationDate="2015-10-25T01:52:38.283" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. The wizard's Charm ability can be used on any monster during a combat. He/she does not have to be in combat in order to use the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14131" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T01:52:38.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27324" CreationDate="2015-10-25T05:46:11.480" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Yes you would die from the sanity loss. From the rule book (page 9):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the haunt begins, if any of your traits (Speed, Might, Sanity, or Knowledge) moves down to the skull symbol, your explorer dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not differentiate in any way between taking direct damage and any other forms of stat loss, so gaining the Madman can kill you if your sanity is already at its lowest point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) No, the Dog cannot carry the Madman (or the Girl). According to the rule book (page 7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some omens, like the Dog, aren’t items at all, so they can’t&#xA;  be dropped or traded. They’re companions that follow&#xA;  the explorer who has custody of them. (The Dog, Girl, and&#xA;  Madman all work this way.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and according to the Dog card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once during your turn, the Dog can move to any explored room up to 6 spaces away, using doors and stairs, and then return. It can pick up, carry, and/or drop 1 item before it returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dog explicitly states that it can only pick up items. The rules explicitly state that both the Madman and the Girl are not items, so therefore neither of them could be carried by the Dog.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-25T05:46:11.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27336" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27339" CreationDate="2015-10-25T19:38:04.643" Score="3" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, a &quot;negative double&quot; after my partner's opening bid, and my right hand opponent's overcall means, &quot;Partner, I don't like your suit, and I don't fancy defending the opponent's overcall. I prefer one (probably both) of the other suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How weak should I be in partner's bid suit to make a negative double (as opposed to a raise)? Even if I like the two unbid suits, should I raise instead of doubling with three little ones opposite my partner's opening five card major? What about my partner's opening minor, and the opponent's one of a major overcall?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I refrain from a negative double if I have fair defense (say, Kxx or better) in my opponent's suit? Or should I make a negative double with (s) Kxx&#xA;(h) xxxx (d)Kxx (c) Qxx if partner bid one club and the opponent one spade? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T00:36:31.843" Title="How little strength should I have in bid suits for a negative double?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27337" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27338" CreationDate="2015-10-25T21:47:45.947" Score="11" ViewCount="13962" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario:&#xA;- infection rate is 2&#xA;- Tehran currently has 2 cubes, Baghdad has 3 cubes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At end of turn, first infect card drawn is Baghdad. It outbreaks and adds a cube to Tehran so Tehran now has 3 cubes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second card drawn is Tehran, which outbreaks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Does the Tehran outbreak cause a chain reaction outbreak in Baghdad? Or is Baghdad skipped because it already had an outbreak on this infect cities stage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14135" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T20:30:38.803" Title="pandemic - can a city outbreak more than once per infect city turn?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27338" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27337" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:46:43.033" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the second card will cause a chain reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a case like this you would have three total outbreaks happen. First one from the first card drawn, Baghdad. Then two more from the second card drawn, Tehran.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;INFECTION:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Infections&#xA;  Flip over as many Infection cards from the top of the Infection Deck as the&#xA;  current infection rate. This number is below the space of the Infection Rate&#xA;  Track that has the infection rate marker. Flip these cards over one at a time,&#xA;  infecting the city named on each card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To infect a city, place 1 disease cube matching its color onto the city, unless&#xA;  this disease has been eradicated. If the city already has 3 cubes of this color,&#xA;  do not place a 4th cube. Instead, an outbreak of this disease occurs in the city&#xA;  (see Outbreaks below). Discard this card to the Infection Discard Pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;OUTBREAKS:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When a disease outbreak occurs, move the outbreaks marker forward&#xA;  1 space on the Outbreaks Track. Then, place 1 cube of the disease color&#xA;  on every city connected to the city. If any of them already has 3 cubes of&#xA;  the disease color, do not place a 4th cube in those cities. Instead, in each of&#xA;  them, a chain reaction outbreak occurs after the current outbreak is done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a chain reaction outbreak occurs, first move the outbreaks marker&#xA;  forward 1 space. Then, place cubes as above, except do not add a cube to&#xA;  cities that have already had an outbreak (or a chain reaction outbreak) as&#xA;  part of resolving the current Infection card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a result of outbreaks, a city may have disease cubes of multiple colors on&#xA;  it; up to 3 cubes of each color. This does not affect infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read the outbreaks section closely it only talks about not adding cubes to cities that have already had an outbreak for the current infection card only. So for the situation that you are dealing with there will be an outbreak for each infection card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T03:33:59.857" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T03:33:59.857" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27336" CreationDate="2015-10-25T22:52:33.297" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First the general points - if you and partner have a fit, opponents are almost guaranteed to have a fit also. Values in the opponents' suit detract from the overall playing strength of your hand, and should be evaluated accordingly, but that does not relieve you from the obligation to share information with partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scoring table clearly favours major suits over minors, and generally it is true that with both a 4-4 fit and either a 5-3 fit or 5-4 second fit, the 4-4 fit plays on average almost a trick better. Of course in a minor you must contract for a full additional trick for game, and often for the privilege of outbidding opponents. This analysis leads the following guidelines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't pass if you have the values and support required for any type of raise. Your known fit improves the opponents' expected fit at about 75%, and you must inform partner of this valuable datum.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prefer to look for a 4-4 major suit fit in preference to raising partner's known major or minor suit unless you have 5-card support for partner's major. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Prefer to raise partner's major in preference to looking for a 4-4 minor suit fit.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't pass in expectation of passing a reopening double by partner unless you expect a doubled penalty greater than your game (500 white, 800 red) - if you can't yet set the opponents this much you owe partner a bid first. Bridge is a partnership game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the auction 1C 1D a negative double shows at least 4-4 in the majors - otherwise just bid one; such a response at the one-level should &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; require a 5-card suit or you are letting the opponents steal bidding room too cheaply. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After the auction 1D 2C a negative double shows at least one 4-card major, to protect against partner having one also, playing 5-card majors.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In other low-level auctions you are promising at least 4-3 in the unbid suits, or extra values and an inability to bid any of notrump, trap pass, or a raise.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T00:36:31.843" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T00:36:31.843" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27340" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35497" CreationDate="2015-10-26T02:34:23.473" Score="9" ViewCount="4279" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have memories of a game. I'm 30 now and I think I was most likely early teens when I played it, so probably sometime around 1998 or so. I think it was called &quot;connect 5&quot; but I'm not positive on that. It was played by dropping tiles into a physical vertical grid. The game was like the famous &quot;connect 4&quot; except.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You had to get 5 in a row rather than 4 to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The grid had far more positions than a connect 4 grid. The counters were much smaller to accomodate this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It had some (two iirc) horizontal &quot;tricky move&quot; bars in the grid. Instead of dropping in a tile a player could chose to move these bars. This would move tiles sideways and could sometimes cause them to fall out of the grid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My web searches for connect 5 doesn't turn up anything like this game. Is my memory faulty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14137" LastEditorUserId="14137" LastEditDate="2017-06-09T21:01:52.253" LastActivityDate="2017-08-19T01:31:55.303" Title="Has anyone heard of a game called connect 5" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27320" CreationDate="2015-10-26T03:57:41.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's hard to know what is needed in a &quot;good&quot; hand without knowing your deck and the deck(s) of the opponent(s).  There are some really obvious bad hands (like having 0 lands), but beyond that it's down to what your deck is trying to accomplish.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In bridge it's a lot more easy to assign values to high cards because you know exactly how much trick-taking power it's worth.  Aces only lose to trumps.  Between two kings, you can expect to get at least one trick.  You never draw more cards than your starting hand, so you know right at the beginning of the game exactly what is and isn't possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A better analogy for evaluating Magic hands is evaluating a poker hand like in 7-card stud.  Obviously, your opening cards are very important and go a long way in establishing your play.  But future cards (for both you and your opponent) can swing the game in either player's favor.  You have to take into account how many remaining cards in your deck will help you while doing the same for your opponent's board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as &quot;positional&quot; advantages, deferring decisions as long as possible keeps your plan more hidden and reserves your spells for when they're really needed.  Waiting until the second main phase to summon creatures can be very helpful.  It's much like leading from dummy to declarer's hidden hand.  Hiding that information (when possible) can get your opponent's to waste their better cards on your average ones.  It's the same in Magic, where you might try to bait a kill spell for your lesser creatures before playing your bomb.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T03:57:41.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27320" CreationDate="2015-10-26T04:58:29.017" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want to see how this works in practice, probably the best way is to read what people have written about taking mulligans. That's really the only decision you can make after evaluating the strength of a hand: is this hand strong enough to keep, or is it weak enough that I'd expect an average hand with one less card to be better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know you've said you don't just care about mulligans, but this is really the only kind of real-world resource to point you at, and this is definitely a question where you'll benefit from looking at real examples. When you ask &quot;how does one evaluate the 'strength' of a hand?&quot; as a broader question, the answer in practice is &quot;you don't.&quot; All you care about is mulliganing. If it's an obvious mulligan, you don't waste any time deciding precisely how bad, you just shuffle it back. If it's an obvious keep, you might be a little excited if it's really good, but you're not going to try to pin it down. The potential range of power is more like awful to reasonably good, not weak to incredibly strong. Generally, the best possible hand just means you have decent odds and you'll get to play a &quot;real&quot; game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/level-one/level-one-full-course-2015-10-05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Level One&lt;/a&gt; series has several articles about mulligans, trying to give some generally helpful advice. If you haven't played a lot of Magic, you might want to read some of the rest too, since that background will help give you the context you need to understand what you're really looking for when you draw your seven cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/tag/keep-or-mulligan/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Keep or Mulligan&lt;/a&gt; articles on Channel Fireball, which are all about looking at specific hands for specific decks. That might be a little less meaningful if you don't grok the decks, but it'll give you an idea of the kinds of things people consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is clearly a pretty complex thing; people are writing whole articles not just about hand strength in general but about specific hands for specific decks! Let's come back to your comparison to bridge, and see why it's so different. For several reasons, Magic isn't as easy to generalize about as bridge:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In bridge, your opening hand is all the cards you'll have for the whole game. In Magic, your opening hand is just the first seven cards - even in a very fast game you'll see at least a few more, but you can easily see another seven, or in longer games, another twenty or thirty. So you have to think about your hand in the context of average subsequent draws. You're far from perfect information, and there's an element of chance.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In bridge, every hand is drawn from the same deck of cards, so you can analyze all hands in the same way. In Magic, every deck is different, so the main considerations for one deck in evaluating hands may be completely different from those in another deck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In bridge, the cards all come with numbers printed on them indicating their precise &quot;power&quot;, and there's not many possibilities. In Magic, not only are there not numbers like that on the cards, there couldn't be. Everything's contextual; it's more like a radically expanded version of nontransitive dice, where it's not &quot;A beats B beats C beats A&quot; but rather a large number of cards each of which are better than some others in some contexts, and worse than some others in other contexts.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In bridge, your opponents are also drawing every hand from the same deck of cards. In Magic, each opponent you play can be playing a different deck, which in turn changes the value of the cards in your deck. Something that's amazing against one opponent's deck might do absolutely nothing against another's.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In bridge, there are actually hands that can guarantee victory. In Magic, there's no such thing. Your opponent will always have at least some opportunity to interfere with your plans, and most often there's a lot of interaction and dependence on subsequent draws. So the power level ceiling is much lower - there's no such thing as a &quot;come&quot; hand. (Even in vintage, where you can play some pretty degenerate combo decks, your opponent can be playing free counterspells to mess you up on your first turn of the game.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, we can certainly try to come up with some very general ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is mana. To first approximation, you're looking for the right number of lands. But as soon as your deck has multiple colors (which it most often does), you're also thinking about whether you have the colors you need to cast the spells in your hand and the spells you're hoping to draw. And since nothing is ever perfect, you're also often thinking about how likely it is you'll find the additional lands you need and the colors you're missing in time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, you're looking for cards that will let you do what your deck wants to do, which varies wildly depending on the deck. In a very simple aggro deck, that might just be a selection of the cards that will let you deal damage as quickly as possible. In a more synergistic aggro deck, you'll want cards that work well together, not just all of one thing. In a midrange, you're probably looking for cards that will help you deal with your opponent's early threats as well as cards to help turn the tables on your opponent in the later game. In a control deck, you probably want cards to deal with threats and some spells to create card advantage (e.g. card draw), but you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; want the cards you'll actually use to win, which you can wait to find later. So even within a single deck, there's likely no simple notion of power, and across all types of decks, it's impossible to generalize. You're just looking for a set of cards that you think will play out favorably, in combination with the cards you'll draw over subsequent turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of all that, as soon as you have some idea what your opponent is doing (i.e. in the second or third game of the match) you'll re-evaluate all your cards based on how well they fare against your opponent's game plan. Are your threats ones that are easy or hard for your opponent to deal with? Are your answers ones that answer your opponent's biggest threats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only real things in common across all of this are that you want &quot;enough&quot; mana and cards that give you a good game plan. What that actually means in practice, though, can't really be said in the same way you can about bridge. In some sense, whenever you build a new deck, you create a game, and then within that game you have to figure out all these things about power and synergy that you'll then use to evaluate hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, one could try to force the analogy with your points, and come up with ideas that are certainly part of how one evaluates opening hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In decks that have a few &quot;favorite&quot; cards, rather than a more even power level across the whole deck, it can indeed be great to see one of those in your opening hand, like your point (1). This is more common in limited, where you might pick up a single copy of a rare bomb, and not draw it in every game. (In constructed formats, anything that amazing you're probably playing four of, so it's not as much of a surprise to see it.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, like your point (2), even if your deck doesn't have a giant range of power, it may have some range, and so some hands may include better cards than others. Again this is more common in limited, where your 23rd best card is often not one you're terribly excited about.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In decks that care more about synergy (how cards interact with each other), rather than just individually powerful cards, the synergy of your opening hand is a consideration, analogous to your point (3). It's a lot more complex to evaluate than simply looking for a long suit, though.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like the closest analogy to positional strength (4) is simply hands that are awful on their own but if you draw the right card will be great. That certainly happens, but those hands can be anywhere from a regretful &quot;it was so close&quot; mulligan to a hopeful keep (you might do nothing the whole game, you might have a blowout win), So it doesn't really tell you much about actual strength.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But as we've seen, none of those are actually simple rules; the power of a card is by no means straightforward to determine, and there's an awful lot of context to take into account that can completely change things from hand to hand and from game to game. Trying to think of it in terms like this is likely not to actually help you much in practice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T14:28:28.383" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T14:28:28.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:08:55.033" Score="9" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just wondering, if the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLudevic%27s%5d%2b%5bTest%5d%2b%5bSubject%5d&quot;&gt;Ludevic&amp;#39;s Test Subject&lt;/a&gt; is in the grave, can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBody%20Double%5d&quot;&gt;Body Double&lt;/a&gt; enter play copying the Abomination side?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14138" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:26:55.600" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:26:55.600" Title="Can Body Double copy the back face of a card in the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27343" CreationDate="2015-10-26T05:10:58.943" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it cannot. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Double-faced_cards&quot;&gt;Rule 711.4a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a double-faced card is outside the game, in a zone other than the battlefield, or on the battlefield with its front face up, it has only the characteristics of its front face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T05:10:58.943" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27347" CreationDate="2015-10-26T10:01:52.483" Score="9" ViewCount="1498" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across the following scenario this weekend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose, in a single turn, all of a player's remaining elves are wiped off the board and returned to his hand, leaving him without any elves in play. On his next turn can he start from anywhere (that would be a legal starting territory), since he has no adjacent territories to attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T16:50:17.343" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T16:50:17.343" Title="Can I conquer anywhere if I have no pieces left on the board?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27345" CreationDate="2015-10-26T10:25:25.720" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - but you can also do this every go anyway. You simply need to abandon all regions when starting your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abandoning a Region&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player chooses to abandon all the Regions he previously occupied, his next conquest must follow the same rules as its First Conquest (see First Conquest, p. 4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_2015_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_2015_en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8623" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T10:25:25.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27345" CreationDate="2015-10-26T11:01:07.740" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely, &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/sw_rules_2015_en.pdf&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (on page 4) under the section on Enemy Loss &amp;amp; Withdrawals explicitly covers this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all of a player's Regions were attacked this turn, leaving him with some Race tokens in hand but none on the board, he may redeploy these as if he was doing a First Conquest, on his next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the other answer, you can also voluntarily withdraw troops from some or all regions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T11:16:16.297" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T11:16:16.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24259" CreationDate="2015-10-26T13:10:59.710" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own both AH and EH. I have the Kingsport, Innsmouth and Black Goat of the Woods expansions for AH. Only have the base game for EH right now but those four expansions call me pretty loudly. I really couldn't say that either is better than the other because I really love both a lot but for different reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I can say I really miss from Arkham when I play Eldritch is how the investigators interact with the monsters. I like that in Arkham the monsters move around, block your path and can straight halt your action when you run into one. Sometimes it seems like those cardboard tiles somehow know what we're trying to do. I'm really not much of a fan of how unimposing the monsters are in EH, I mean, in real life, if you're sitting there and all of a sudden a portal opens up where you're at and spits out a Shoggoth you probably won't be going for groceries, you'd run, hide, fight or die. In Arkham you pretty much have to make one of those choices... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in Arkham when a portal opens where you are you're sucked through instantly before it even spits out a monster, then you're delayed in whatever other world opened up (in AH every gate has the name of an other world that it connects to)then you gotta find your way back to Arkham(you'll have two encounters in the other world before you move back to Arkham), close that gate, which requires you to do a test of either your fight skill or your lore skill plus or minus whatever modifier is on the gate), then you get that gate as a trophy (if you succeed the roll, success is still a 5 or 6). THEN, if that Shoggoth never moved(each mythos phase makes certain monsters of a type specified move, but you never know what will move or where it'll move to) then you can't move past it unless you succeed at an evade check(which is a test of your sneak skill plus or minus the monster's evade mod). If you fail the test the monster deals you its damage and then you have to fight or just not move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arkham's game world is more alive, much more intense and forboding and much more rules heavy in terms of stuff you gotta keep an eye on each turn, but winning gives a real sense of triumph and there's much more player freedom.Arkham rocks, rocks. Great way to spend a weekend with friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, Eldritch's game world is more streamlined, more static and funnels players along in a much more controlling way, BUT as a result of that it tells a more comprehensive story thsn Arkham does on a game by game basis. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Eldritch Horror was a bestselling novel, Arkham Horror would be the five star epic survival horror (and AH very much is, EH can be tough but AH can and will beat you senseless)video game RPG adaptation. Eldritch Horror tells the story but Arkham lets you live it... but on that note you should really think about checkin out Mansions of Madness too. If I could play that game solo I'd own it in a heartbeat (but one of my best friends has it and all the expansions so we just play his). It could also be said that if Arkham Horror was the book then Eldritch Horror would be the (good) movie based on that book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, like EH, you can play solo which I highly recommend doing for playing for your first couple games(unless you have an experienced buddy who can bring you up to speed) so that you and your friends don't have to spend the day reading rulebooks. Plus it's a blast to play even alone (I suggest playing at least two investigators for solo games though, Arkham's a pretty formidable place for a lone ranger). Sorry to go on and on, just love these games. Hope this helped. Have fun! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14140" LastEditorUserId="14140" LastEditDate="2015-10-26T13:45:26.767" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T13:45:26.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6703" CreationDate="2015-10-26T15:57:12.673" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://zmangames.com/rulebooks/Pandemic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;most recent Pandemic rules&lt;/a&gt; now read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The players look at the City cards they have in their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player with the highest City population goes first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14141" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T17:17:22.840" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27340" CreationDate="2015-10-26T18:17:06.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you are thinking of this game?  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2763/touche&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Touche&lt;/a&gt; ?  Pieces don't fall out, but they might flip over and become your opponent's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T18:17:06.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27340" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:10:23.077" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hasbro makes &quot;Connect 4 with Five ways to play&quot; games which have a variation where you slide down alternating red-yellow columns on each side of the board, and must use those pre-played pieces to try and make five in a row instead of four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/dad2614d1c4311ddbd0b0800200c9a66/1EF6874419B9F36910222EB9858E8CB8.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's a link to Hasbro's PDF instructions showing this variant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That same game also includes a &quot;Pop out&quot; variant where you slide the bottom bar into a &quot;pop-out&quot; position. On your turn you may either drop a checker in the top as normal or pop one of your own checkers out from the bottom row. This adds another strategy of changing the board to a more advantageous position, as the column of checkers shifts down after you pop your checker out of the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps your memory was a bit hazy on the &quot;tricky move&quot; bars, this sounds like what you're thinking of for that other variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T21:10:23.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2015-10-26T21:29:06.060" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Knight is better than bishop.&lt;/strong&gt; Better, because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it's much harder to calculate with knight-moves and this fact is VERY useful in 'everyday' chess games. (And this is the most&#xA;important argument defending Knights: you can suprise your opponent)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CPU is the strongest with Knights too.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishop and Knight are equal during endgames (in theory). - You won't know whether it will be closed or open endgame.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The  Good Bishop - Bad Bishop problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forking &gt; Pinning... Forking is bigger problem :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishops can not really stop pawns from reaching the 8th line. They must defend the 8th line or the 7th, while Knight's aren't&#xA;'compelled'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Bishops can make checkmate, while 2 Knights not. But when will you have these situations at endgame? About never. Endgames are&#xA;about pawns. (And forced checkmate IS possible with 1 Knight and 1 Bishop, but very hard to learn the systematics)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You can not really hide from Knights. And if they made a check, it's hard to run. But if a dark-square bishop makes a check, you can run with going to light-square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only fact defending bishops is &lt;strong&gt;2 bishops &gt; bishop + knight&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14146" LastActivityDate="2015-10-26T21:29:06.060" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27354" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27355" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:06:58.163" Score="5" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyxis%20of%20Pandemonium&quot;&gt;Pyxis of Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt; in a mill deck. I also run &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undead%20Alchemist&quot;&gt;Undead Alchemist&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Altar%20of%20the%20Brood&quot;&gt;Altar of the Brood&lt;/a&gt;. I understand that when Pyxis's 7-cost ability resolves, all relevant permanents enter at the same time, so does that mean the mill that would happen would only be a result of any Altars already on the field?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, what of the zombies resulting from that mill? Would they be a separate resolution following the Pyxis ability or would they resolve during the Pyxis? Also would they then include any Altars and Pyxis that entered the battlefield by the ability of Pyxis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14149" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T22:21:41.423" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T22:21:41.423" Title="Interaction of Pyxis of Pandemonium with Altar of the Brood" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27354" CreationDate="2015-10-27T07:35:15.897" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Altar%20of%20the%20Brood&quot;&gt;Altar of the Brood&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield at the same time as other permanents, it would trigger for each of those permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6a Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. These are written, “When [this object] enters the battlefield, . . . ” or “Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield, . . .” Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (&lt;strong&gt;including the newcomers&lt;/strong&gt;) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that match the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means all of your Altars (both you already have on the battlefield and those entering it due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyxis%20of%20Pandemonium&quot;&gt;Pyxis of Pandemonium&lt;/a&gt; will trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically what would happen: Pyxis's ability resolves, and a lot of permanents (possibly including other Altars) will enter the battlefield. There will now be a lot of triggers from all the Altars you have on the stack. They will start resolving one by one, sometimes triggering &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undead%20Alchemist%27s&quot;&gt;Undead Alchemist&amp;#39;s&lt;/a&gt; ability (which then goes on stack and resolves). The zombies entering will also trigger all of the Altars and will be put on stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T10:01:54.373" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T10:01:54.373" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27356" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27362" CreationDate="2015-10-27T09:33:12.957" Score="2" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I arm a Liberator (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-workshop.com/resources/PDF/AoS_Warscrolls/warhammer-aos-liberators-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.games-workshop.com/resources/PDF/AoS_Warscrolls/warhammer-aos-liberators-en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) with two warblades how many attacks do I get?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see I get to reroll hit rolls of 1 but I'm unclear on whether I get 2 attack (because that's what it says on the profile) or 4 (because I have two warblades each with two attacks).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6161" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:45:46.970" Title="How many attacks does a liberator get?" Tags="|age-of-sigmar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27314" CreationDate="2015-10-27T11:28:10.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The modern legal sets are as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Core sets from 8th Edition on wards. This includes &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8th Edition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;9th Edition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10th Edition&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic 2010&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic 2011&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic 2012&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic 2013&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic 2014&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic 2015&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic Origins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following blocks are also part of the modern format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mirrodin Block (Mirrodin, Fifth Dawn and Darksteel.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kamigawa Block (Champions, Betrayers and Saviors of Kamigawa.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ravnica Block (Ravnica: City of Guilds, Guildpact and Dissension.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time Spiral Block (Time Spiral, Planar Chaos and Future Sight.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lorwyn Block (Lorwyn and Morningtide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shadowmoor Block (Shadowmoor and Eventide.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shard of Alara Block (Shards of Alara, Conflux and Alara Reborn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zendikar Block (Zendikar and Worldwake.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rise of the Eldrazi Block (Stand Alone.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scars of Mirrodin Block (Scars of Mirrodin, Mirrodin Besieged and New Phyrexia.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Innistrad Block (Innistrad, Dark Ascension and Avacyn Restored.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Return to Ravnica Block (Return to Ravnica, Gatecrash and Dragon's Maze.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theros Block (Theros, Born of the Gods and Journey into Nyx)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Khans of Tarkir Block (Khans of Tarkir, Fate Reforged and Dragons of Tarkir.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battle for Zendikar Block (Battle for Zendikar, Oath of the Gatewatch.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless cards have been printed in one of these sets they are not legal for the modern format. Although the format bears the Title of Modern there is plenty of cards printed with the modern card frame that are not legal for this format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oh and do remember there is a banned list of cards as well. Do make sure you are not playing any of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note some of the conspiracy cards are modern legal seeing as they have been printed in a modern legal set before. Reflecting Pool comes to mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T06:34:44.240" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T06:34:44.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27354" CreationDate="2015-10-27T11:34:19.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a Gatherer ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Altar%20of%20the%20Brood&quot;&gt;Altar of the Brood&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9/20/2014 If Altar of the Brood enters the battlefield under your control at the same time as other permanents, its ability will trigger for each of those permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like the ruling states, all the Altars would &amp;quot;see&amp;quot; the other permanents that come into play at the same time. You would mill X times the amount of Altars in play, and that includes the Altars that come into play after you sacrifice Pyxis. X is equal to the number of face down cards exiled with Pyxis of Pandemonium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, what of the zombies resulting of that mill? Would they be&#xA;a separate resolution following everything in the Pyxis resolving or&#xA;would they resolve within the Pyxis? Also would they then include any&#xA;Altars and Pyxis that resolved in the Pyxis?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Undead%20Alchemist&quot;&gt;Undead Alchemist&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability is just a plain old triggered ability. You will have a whole lot of Altar triggers that mill cards. Every time one of Altar's triggers resolve, you mill one card. Then, if it is a creature card, the Alchemist's triggered ability triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that although the Pyxis will put many things on the battlefield at the same time, all these triggers have to be put on the stack one by one. They do not resolve as a group, but one at a time after priority has been passed by both players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-27T15:53:51.867" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T15:53:51.867" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27319" CreationDate="2015-10-27T11:45:36.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you hold a hand like this you should not think, WHAT game you should play, it's better to discover SHOULD you play a game or not!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Theory gives us some clues: if your partner whispers you that he has 4 hearts - you can count losers in your hand - a bit less than 10 losers (counting by Klinger). That means, that 4hearts will never (never!!!) be reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So - plan your bidding. I suggest to bid 2clubs and...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(2di) - 2 or 3 nt (as you feel in this moment), personally I prefer 2nt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(2he) - pass !!!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(2sp) - 2nt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, in my plan it does not matter if my partner bids hearts or spades with 4-4 in majors. But if he bids 2spades with 44maj(and i know it), i'd better pass 2 spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4333 is the worst shape and jumping to 3nt is a gambling - you'll need some good cards, nice lead and some good distribution. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;May be you feel lucky today?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14150" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T11:45:36.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14954" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:07:43.260" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board game geek has &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/100423/elder-sign&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Elder Sign&lt;/a&gt; listed. One of files in the game listing should have the information that you're looking for. I'll point out that the game also has a number of expansion packs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14113" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T19:07:43.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27356" CreationDate="2015-10-27T19:46:40.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The second warblade only grants you the reroll, it doesn't add additional attacks. Similarly a Prime w/ 2 warblades would get 3 attacks with rerolls, not 6 or 5 or 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T19:46:40.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26869" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:11:28.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was this the game: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.games-collector.com/boardgame/w/wild-life-1st-edition-1965.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.games-collector.com/boardgame/w/wild-life-1st-edition-1965.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wild Life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14155" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T22:11:28.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-27T22:32:39.943" Score="1" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family is developing a game based off of Tic-Tac-Toe. Only the objective is the same though. Are there any other games out there with similar goals and objectives based off of Tic-Tac-Toe?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14156" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T23:52:55.957" Title="Tic-Tac-Toe card games?" Tags="|playing-cards|game-development|tic-tac-toe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-10-28T02:00:09.787" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27365" CreationDate="2015-10-27T23:52:55.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are, in fact, already card games where you try to get three of your symbol in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/155256/tic-tac-toe-jeu-de-reflexion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tic Tac Toe: jeu de réflexion&lt;/a&gt;, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2015-10-27T23:52:55.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27371" CreationDate="2015-10-28T07:11:07.290" Score="7" ViewCount="2423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you attack someone for player damage with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellkite%20Tyrant&quot;&gt;Hellkite Tyrant&lt;/a&gt; whilst &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt; is in play (played by you if it makes a difference). Do you get control of all of your opponents lands? The answer to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/267486-land-permanent&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; says that lands are permanents, and since all permanents are turned in to artifacts does Hellkite Tyrant steal them? I'm asking this because it feels so OP that I'm wondering if there is more to this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14162" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-10-28T08:23:45.573" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T08:23:45.573" Title="Does Hellkite Tyrant in combination with Mycosynth Lattice steal lands?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27370" CreationDate="2015-10-28T08:15:16.403" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as you stated correctly, lands are permanents:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.4. There are five permanent types: artifact, creature, enchantment, &lt;strong&gt;land&lt;/strong&gt;, and planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enemy Lands are Artifact [Basic] Lands now due to Mycosynth Lattice, and nothing stops you from getting control of them if you deal combat damage with Hellkite Tyrant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T08:15:16.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25730" CreationDate="2015-10-28T10:42:54.043" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jim Belk gave perfect answer! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I mean, may be his analysis was not perfect, may be he should enter another conditions (like 14 balanced with 5332), or 9-13 Hcp opposite instead of 10-15, or make it 100000 hands instead of 1000...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;strong&gt;the way&lt;/strong&gt; he solves the problem is the only correct way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me clear this: everyone who plays bridge more than 1 year met this position at least 2 times :), so we discuss what could we do, if your  choice was unsuccessful. The problem is really common! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;careful! here is some esoterics&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As in life we sometimes think, that we know something (basing on our experience). But Life in wide meaning (you can say G-d or Buddha or Nature or whatever) knows much more than we. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one(or ten or even 1000) board means nothing. It's like grain of sand opposite Jupiter (or may be 1000 Jupiters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;esoteric ends here&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, computer modeling gives correct % very soon , after 10000 boards matching your conditions, next 100000 boards will not change %.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't forget one thing - computer gives you correct &lt;strong&gt;%&lt;/strong&gt;, but it can not give you the correct &lt;strong&gt;answer&lt;/strong&gt;! &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Feel the difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14150" LastActivityDate="2015-10-28T10:42:54.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27375" CreationDate="2015-10-28T20:53:42.663" Score="4" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chains%20of%20Mephistopheles&quot;&gt;Chains of Mephistopheles&lt;/a&gt; is on the battlefield, and I would use my a draw other than my first for the turn to trigger a dredge effect like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dakmor%20Salvage&quot;&gt;Dakmor Salvage&lt;/a&gt;. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12333" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T03:18:53.690" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T19:47:11.987" Title="How does Chains of Mephistopheles interact with Dredge" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27374" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:05:40.090" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's look at a &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/91390902404/magicjudge-how-chains-of-mephistopheles&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;flowchart&lt;/a&gt; explaining how Chains of Mephistopheles works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when you go to draw a card (other than the one that is a turn based action during your draw step) you have 2 replacement effects trying to replace that draw, the Chains and Dredge. You get to choose which one to apply first (616.1).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you choose to apply Dredge first you can no longer apply the Chains since you are no longer drawing a card (614.6).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you choose to apply the Chains effect first you can still Dredge as long as you would draw a card after discarding, if you mill (because you had no cards to discard) you cannot apply Dredge.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;616.1.&lt;/strong&gt; If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object’s controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.6.&lt;/strong&gt; If an event is replaced, it never happens. A modified event occurs instead, which may in turn trigger abilities. Note that the modified event may contain instructions that can’t be carried out, in which case the impossible instruction is simply ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T18:01:43.683" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27376" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27374" CreationDate="2015-10-28T21:13:01.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose which ones apply. If you use the Dredge effect, the Chains effect doesn't apply any more, so you'll just mill two cards and put the Dakmor Salvage into your hand. If you have at least one card in your hand, you can also choose to apply the Chains effect, then the Dredge effect, so you'd discard a card, then mill two cards and put the Dakmor Salvage into your hand. And if you don't have a card in your hand, then you can choose to just mill one card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of those are replacement effects that modify a card draw. Chains of Mephistopheles' effect is complicated, but there's a ruling that explains it as simply as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens when Chains of Mephistopheles replaces a player's draw:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that player has at least one card in his or her hand, he or she discards a card and then draws a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If that player's hand is empty, he or she puts the top card of his or her library into his or her graveyard. The player doesn't draw a card at all.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Dredge's effect is fairly simple, as described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Dredge&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 702.51a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dredge is a static ability that functions only while the card with dredge is in a player’s graveyard. “Dredge N” means “As long as you have at least N cards in your library, if you would draw a card, you may instead put N cards from the top of your library into your graveyard and return this card from your graveyard to your hand.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are both replacement effects, so their interaction is governed by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_replacement_and/or_prevention_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;interaction of replacement and/or prevention effects rules&lt;/a&gt;. Basically, the player affected applies applicable replacement effects at most once each until no more of them are applicable, then follows the resulting instructions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can choose to apply the Dredge replacement first. In that case, you are no longer drawing a card, so the Chains replacement doesn't apply any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also choose to apply the Chains replacement first. In that case, what you do depends on whether your hand is empty. If it is, then you are again no longer drawing a card, so the Dredge replacement doesn't apply any more. If your hand is not empty, then you are still drawing a card, so the Dredge effect still applies and you can apply it too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T19:47:11.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14954" CreationDate="2015-10-29T06:30:44.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone over on boardgame geek added a list of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/120191/elder-sign-all-cards-all-expansions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;all cards for all expansions&lt;/a&gt; since I originally asked the question and did my search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="92" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T06:30:44.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27374" CreationDate="2015-10-29T06:53:34.747" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can choose the dredge replacement effect instead of Mephistopheles. What you also can do is when let the replacement make you discard the second card you draw for the turn and then draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as the Oracle text for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chains%20of%20Mephistopheles&quot;&gt;Chains of Mephistopheles&lt;/a&gt; specifically mentions...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player would draw a card except the first one he or she draws in his or her draw step each turn, that player discards a card instead. If the player discards a card this way, he or she &lt;em&gt;draws a card.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will now have the chance to discard the card you draw and then also dredge. Seeing as this is a dredge deck and you want to dump as many cards into the graveyard as possible this may be better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T18:19:11.990" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T18:19:11.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27380" CreationDate="2015-10-29T10:56:47.723" Score="5" ViewCount="9006" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little confused about what a &quot;monocolored creature&quot; is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=189646&quot;&gt;Defiler of Souls&lt;/a&gt; is definitely not, having a mana cost of 3BBR - Black and red is definitely not monocolored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=221896&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; definitely is monocolored, having a mana cost of G.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=391927&quot;&gt;Soulfire Grand Master&lt;/a&gt; has a mana cost of 1W - this is where my uncertainty lies. Is this a monocolored creature because of the single (W), or does the (1) disqualify that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14064" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:40:45.597" Title="What qualifies as a &quot;monocolored creature&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27379" CreationDate="2015-10-29T11:01:02.607" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soulfire Grand Master is monocolored. Monocolored cards have exactly one color of mana in their cost. Colorless does not count as a color. So, a cost of 1 white and 1 colorless mana contains only one color - white. Of course, anything that specifically alters a card's color overrides this general rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;105.2.&lt;/strong&gt; An object can be one or more of the five colors, or it can be no color at all. An object is the color or colors of the mana symbols in its mana cost, regardless of the color of its frame. An object’s color or colors may also be defined by a color indicator or a characteristic-defining ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;105.2a&lt;/strong&gt; A monocolored object is exactly one of the five colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;105.4.&lt;/strong&gt; ... “Multicolored” is not a color. Neither is “colorless.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T17:40:45.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27381" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-10-29T20:09:12.833" Score="13" ViewCount="5691" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have inherited over 20,000 Magic cards. What is the best way to find out what they are worth for selling. Do I need to look up each card? How? Where? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14174" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-10-29T21:16:44.477" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T15:48:59.817" Title="Inherited thousands of Magic Cards" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27383" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:01:42.663" Score="4" ViewCount="563" Body="&lt;p&gt;One poster has noted on other questions that a 4-4 trump fit was better almost a trick better than a 5-3 trump fit,and had a smaller premium over a 5-4 fit because of the ability to make either hand the master hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see that being the case where the two hands both had HHxx, where the &quot;H's&quot; are honor cards, and the x's are random small cards. But about &quot;extreme&quot; cases like AKQ6 opposite 5432, or JTxx opposite xxxx? How would the 4-4 advantage still hold? In the latter case for instance, I would welcome a fifth trump in either hand, because if it were a &quot;spot,&quot; it would be a &quot;long&quot; trump after the opponents take their honors, and if it were a Queen or better, it would be a third honor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to my &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/27319/do-flat-hands-devalue-a-4-4-trump-fit&quot;&gt;Stayman&lt;/a&gt; question, the same poster (Pieter Geerkens) noted that one of the weaknesses of the four card heart suit was its lack of a ten (an honor) or nine (close enough). Could a lack of honors in &quot;four card&quot; major suit like 8632 dissuade one from using Stayman, or otherwise seeking a 4-4 fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T15:16:53.227" Title="With what kind of trump holdings is a 4-4 trump fit superior?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27382" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:52:06.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The considerations which you describe affect the overall strength of the hand very much more than the playability of the suit. If you have two or three high card losers in your 4-4 fit, where are they going? If your combined holding with partner is sufficient for a play at game, J9xx vs T8xx has a legitimate chance for 2 or even 3 tricks with ruffs when the trump suit, but only a long-shot-con at 2 tricks if not the trump suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, having the preponderance of your high cards in short suits makes a hand feel more &lt;em&gt;balanced&lt;/em&gt;.  For example with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S - xxxx&#xA;H - ATx&#xA;D - K9x&#xA;C - QJx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a raise of partner's 1NT opening to 3NT looks like the most descriptive call even playing Puppet Stayman, whereas with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S - QJxx&#xA;H - ATx&#xA;D - K9x&#xA;C - xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a Stayman call starts looking more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T21:52:06.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27381" CreationDate="2015-10-29T21:53:26.177" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the current storage condition of the cards? Are they loosely organized by color and alphabet, or meticulously filed by expansion and collector number? The better the cards are organized, the less initial labor you'll have to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start with the larger sites that operate in the 2nd hand marketplace; tcgplayer, channelfireball, etc. Find their buy lists and use it as a dig through of the collection to identify things that have a specific interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider how much energy you want to invest in selling off the cards. Consignment options may exist, or you can piecemeal via ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2015-10-29T21:53:26.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9213" CreationDate="2015-10-30T02:21:56.427" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a gentleman's game.  You do your best to move along, your best to play correctly, and your best not to violate the rules or the spirit.  Sometimes you have to back up.  Some players have not fully learned the rules and you may have to figure out whether it is willful or innocent.  Like life itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14178" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T02:21:56.427" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27386" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27381" CreationDate="2015-10-30T15:18:50.763" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no short cut way for someone not familiar with the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easiest way is to go to a reputable local game store, and offer to sell them the entire batch in bulk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A potential easy way is to find young honest kids, who love sorting cards, and have them sort by &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Set&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;expansion/set&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18290/is-there-an-easy-way-i-can-tell-if-a-mtg-card-is-rare-just-by-looking-at-it&quot;&gt;rarity&lt;/a&gt;.  Then price the individual rares, mythic rares, and complete sets of commons and uncommons.  I have three such kids who would love to engage in such a task if you are interested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T15:18:50.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7695" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:08:30.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The travel mechanic used in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/images/boardgame/2484/journey-through-europe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Journey Through Europe&lt;/a&gt; might work for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several cities have airports that allow you to fly to any other airport on the map, but the map is divided into six regions and there is a cost associated with flying from one region to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For normal movement, each city is connected to nearby cities and each line is treated as a space like in a normal board game. So, the player roles dice and can only travel as far as the dice roll allows and they have to travel through cities. This could easily be co-oped that each player has a designated range (a set number of spaces they can move), so while they can't just travel directly to any city on the map, they can use their range to travel on the roads closer to their destination, and they always land on a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also like the idea of making the board covered in hexes, allowing players to travel in almost any direction up to their total movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14182" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T18:08:30.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27381" CreationDate="2015-10-30T18:50:29.187" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking to maximize your profit, doing it yourself and selling them piecemeal is the best way. If you have someone you trust that knows MTG and can help you, you can work out a deal with them. Kids might be a good idea, but that wouldn't be my first choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.moxdiamond.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgprice.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTGPrice&lt;/a&gt; are two dealers I have used in the past, but local comic shops, craigslist and ebay work just as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the number of cards you have, if you can identify the rares, you can get a rough estimate of what the total value of cards are that you have. If the cards are not sorted in any fashion, look for the gold set icon in the middle of the card, just below the picture and just above the body text of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your cards are sorted already by the set icon, you can set aside the cards from sets that didn't have gold/silver/black color differences and look those up individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a realistic preparation, the value of 20k cards can be valued for as little as $200 (0.01 per card) to as much as several thousand. Everything hinges on what cards you have. Commons are worth little to nothing and some rares are simply rare but not of high value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Selling these cards in bulk on ebay or to a friend is the easiest, but you have to be able to identify the number of rares to certify you aren't selling a bulk of commons and then find a buyer willing to purchase them without actually being able to take the time and sort them. This method is also the one where you will receive the least amount of money for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My bottom line advice is to spend the time sorting them first by set then alphabetically within the set. After that, make a catalog of only the rare cards. Once you know what you have, you can then get a better idea of what you can sell them for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might even get lucky and find some very expensive rares that you'll want to sell individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14182" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T18:50:29.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27389" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27391" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:34:21.167" Score="3" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried to find a shogi game that I could follow on my shogi board. however I am having difficulty following the notation. For example I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www2.teu.ac.jp/gamelab/SHOGI/amaryu93.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www2.teu.ac.jp/gamelab/SHOGI/amaryu93.html&lt;/a&gt; via google. The game starts with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&#xA;1.P7f P8d &#xA;2.S6h P3d&#xA;3.S7g ..&#xA;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I think that Move number 1 should move a pawn, however on the board &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shogi.net/rjhare/pieces/start.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.shogi.net/rjhare/pieces/start.gif&lt;/a&gt; 7 f does not hold a pawn. Also, moving it to 8d would mean that it had to move diagnoally, which does not make much sense. So what I came up with is that it could mean that it was the target of a pawn move, which would mean that black moved the pawn from 7g to 7f and white from 8c to 8d. is this the right interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14183" LastActivityDate="2017-10-27T05:47:22.670" Title="Shogi Notation explained" Tags="|shogi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27381" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:50:25.617" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first goal is to separate bulk from value. Bulk cards are usually valued by the inch (for example, they'll buy for $0.20 an inch, which works out to about $0.005 per card) so getting value cards out of the bulk pile is paramount in properly valuing a collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first thing you'll want to do is sort the cards by set. This will make them much easier to look up. I suggest you do this with the cards upside down if you're right handed so it's easier to thumb through them. Remember that cards will naturally have some order to them, so you will likely have a lot of runs in the same pile. If you find there's too many sets, then only pick out a couple of sets per pass (ideally the ones that have the most, to reduce the amount of picking on the next pass). I sorted a collection of 10,000 cards in five passes, but I used my knowledge of the block structure to help with that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5120/how-can-i-tell-the-difference-between-early-magic-the-gathering-card-editions&quot;&gt;There's a very nice guide to identifying sets on this site.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have them sorted by set, you'll want to go through each set and find the value cards. Go to a website of your choosing that lists the prices by set, and filter by the price so you only see prices over a certain threshold. (When pricing collections, I use $0.75 as my threshold, since they're the ones likely to pop over $1.00 on occasion...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separate your commons and uncommons into one pile and your rares and mythics into another pile. This can easily be done by flipping the pile upside down and thumbing from left to right. Commons are black, uncommons are silver, rares are gold and mythics are red. Now go to your price list for the set and identify if there are any commons or uncommons over your threshold. Don't let the Lightning Bolts and Ponders get lost in your bulk pile! Next look at the number of rares or mythics in the set on your price list - if it's like 8 or less, just find those 8 by name in your rare pile. If it's more than that, sort your rare pile by name, and sort your price list by name, and go down both the list and pile at the same time. You can skip large chunks of the set this way, and you'll find that sorting by name gets a lot easier after you've done it a few times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find on average it takes around 1 hour per 1000 cards using this method. You end up looking at each card 4 times doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate by block (so you only have about 20 or so piles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate blocks into sets (one pile into four piles)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Separate into common/uncommon and rare/mythic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Picking out commons, or picking out /sorting for rares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a 20,000 card collection should take around 20 hours or so to sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't take into account foil cards. As a general rule, just to save time, any full art card, foil card, or dual-mana producing land I will set aside and look up separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T20:50:25.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27389" CreationDate="2015-10-30T20:52:32.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shogi#Notation&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shogi Notation&lt;/a&gt; notes which piece is moving, and where they are moving to. So P7f means that a Pawn is moving to square 7f. If there is ambiguity as to which piece is moving then the starting location is added to the front (ex. G6i-5h when there is more than one Gold piece that can move to the 5h square)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-10-30T20:52:32.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27392" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27393" CreationDate="2015-10-30T21:49:32.217" Score="4" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having trouble understanding the example of rule 602.1h in the Magic Comprehensive Rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: You cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Altar’s Reap&lt;/a&gt;, which costs {1}{B} and has an additional cost of sacrificing a creature. You sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thunderscape%20Familiar&quot;&gt;Thunderscape Familiar&lt;/a&gt;, whose effect makes your black spells cost {1} less to cast. Because a spell’s total cost is “locked in” before payments are actually made, you pay {B}, not {1}{B}, even though you’re sacrificing the Familiar.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the costs are locked in before the sacrifice lowers them, why does it say only {B} is payed instead of {1}{B}? Should it not be the other way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The language (&amp;quot;even though...&amp;quot;) also seems to suggest the costs were mistakenly exchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T15:21:59.400" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T16:13:16.717" Title="How does the example of rule 601.2h work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27392" CreationDate="2015-10-30T21:57:06.133" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it says that the spell's cost is &quot;locked in&quot; before payments are made, it means that you calculate the cost, including all modifiers, then you pay for it. This matches up with the steps described in the rules: you calculate the cost in step 601.2f, then pay the cost in step 601.2h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when calculating the cost of that Altar's Reap, you take the base cost: {1}{B}, and apply any relevant cost reductions; in this case, you reduce the cost to {B} due to Thunderscape Familiar's effect. Then you pay the cost: you pay {B} and you sacrifice the Familiar. Since you do the sacrifice after you calculate the cost, the Familiar's cost reduction applies, even though it won't be on the battlefield when you're done casting the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;em&gt;sacrificing&lt;/em&gt; the Familiar is not what lowers the cost. The Familiar has a static ability that reduces the cost of black spells. Sacrificing it is, separately, part of the cost of casting Altar's Reap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T16:13:16.717" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T16:13:16.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27381" CreationDate="2015-10-31T18:33:31.707" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends on how much time you are willing to put into sorting cards and looking up what they are worth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can sell the rares for bulk at 15 cents US to any dealers at PTQ's or GP's and call it a day or you can go to MTG search engines and find out what is worth more than bulk. Be prepared to not get retail for you non bulk cards though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest retailers are Star City Games and channel fireball. You can try troll and toad and card kingdom as well although I have no experience with there store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Star City Games has a great track record. I have bought from them for years and even when the packages have to travel literally half way around the world they always arrive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They also have a simply brilliant customer service department that always answers your questions in a timely manner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be a good idea to send them an email. They do not shark people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-10-31T18:33:31.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27399" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27402" CreationDate="2015-11-01T06:44:13.953" Score="5" ViewCount="396" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A exiles their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Misthollow%20Griffin&quot;&gt;Misthollow Griffin&lt;/a&gt; face down with their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bane%20Alley%20Broker&quot;&gt;Bane Alley Broker&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can player A cast that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Misthollow%20Griffin&quot;&gt;Misthollow Griffin&lt;/a&gt; from exile?&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If no, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only 2 players, and player B subsequently &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22control%20target%20player%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;takes control of&lt;/a&gt; player A.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can player B have player A cast the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Misthollow%20Griffin&quot;&gt;Misthollow Griffin&lt;/a&gt; that&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;was exiled face down, since &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; (2) players can see it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13741" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T15:49:48.443" Title="Does Misthollow Griffin's from-exile ability work if it's exiled face down?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27400" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-01T08:24:47.313" Score="2" ViewCount="766" Body="&lt;p&gt;Being lost in time and space leaves you immune to reckoning effects, but what if the reckoning effect of a mythos card is what causes you to become lost in time and space, and you still have a few other conditions to resolve (for the reckoning effect)? Can you stop as soon as you become lost in time and space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T08:03:01.850" Title="If I am Lost in Time and Space during a reckoning effect resolution, do I continue to resolve remaining reckoning effects?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-forsaken-lore|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27434" CreationDate="2015-11-01T08:30:06.547" Score="0" ViewCount="340" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reckoning effect is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spawn 1 Cultist Monster on a space containing a Mystery token, Eldritch token, or Epic Monster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean 1 cultist on each space with any of those items, or 1 cultist on a space of our choice that fulfills the requirement? The literal reading seems to imply the latter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:34:55.263" Title="Does Yig's awakened reckoning effect spawn a cultist on each space fulfilling the requirement, or just 1 on a space of your choice?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-forsaken-lore|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27399" CreationDate="2015-11-01T10:12:29.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot play a face-down Misthollow Griffin from exile. The reason is that &quot;face down&quot; is a status of an object in the game. Even if, in practice, you happen to turn the physical card face-up, the game still considers it a face-down object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important because a face-down object has no characteristics, and in particular, no abilities - it's not really a &quot;Misthollow Griffin&quot; object, it's just a plain old &quot;face-down featureless card&quot; object. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R4063&quot;&gt;CR 406.3&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;406.3.&lt;/strong&gt; ...A card exiled face down has no characteristics, but the spell or ability that exiled it may allow it to be played from exile....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that one or more players are allowed to look at the card doesn't change the fact that it's considered a face-down object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That also addresses your second question: no matter who can look at the card, it's still considered a face-down card object with no characteristics, so it doesn't have the ability that allows it to be played from exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2015-11-01T15:49:48.443" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T15:49:48.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2015-11-01T21:56:06.140" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the stations when I play Ticket to ride Asia. I think it is working good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rules I don't think you should use them, but I am not sure. I use them and I think it works good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14192" LastEditorUserId="14192" LastEditDate="2017-04-28T15:34:01.997" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T15:34:01.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18338" CreationDate="2015-11-01T22:19:44.227" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All packs will just be produced for a couple of years. When the production is stopped, you can't play with the cards at tournaments any more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the production of the first pack in the eight cycle has started the production of the first two cycles will stop and the cards will be banned from tournaments. The same thing will happen when the production of the first pack in the tenth cycle has started but with the third and fourth cycle instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to more information:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2014/11/5/a-new-stage-of-growth/&quot;&gt;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2014/11/5/a-new-stage-of-growth/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14192" LastActivityDate="2015-11-01T22:19:44.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27407" CreationDate="2015-11-01T23:33:27.050" Score="10" ViewCount="5012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen and read a few spoiler-free reviews of Pandemic Legacy, and it looks great. As such I have a question I've not seen covered yet. I was wondering how many times the game is played until it is complete? I think I read somewhere that it's two plays per month - is that correct? So the game will be complete after 24 plays?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14194" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T18:49:30.163" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T18:49:30.163" Title="How many plays of Pandemic Legacy until it is complete?" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27406" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27408" CreationDate="2015-11-02T01:35:29.853" Score="2" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hey I have yet another question from my esper rally deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent is at 3 life. I have no more cards in my library and no creatures in play. My graveyard has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nantuko%20Husk&quot;&gt;Nantuko Husk&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zulaport%20Cutthroat&quot;&gt;Zulaport Cutthroat&lt;/a&gt;, 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grim%20Haruspex&quot;&gt;Grim Haruspex&lt;/a&gt;. I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rally%20The%20Ancestors&quot;&gt;Rally The Ancestors&lt;/a&gt; for 3. Can I win via Zulaport Cutthroat triggers before decking myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I can win, could I still win if instead of Nantuko Husk I had 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fleshbag%20Marauder&quot;&gt;Fleshbag Marauder&lt;/a&gt; in the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13887" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T02:25:57.600" Title="Ordering triggers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27405" CreationDate="2015-11-02T01:37:46.037" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pandemic Legacy campaign runs over a single year. You play a game for each month, but if you lose then you play that month one more time before moving to the next one. So if you win every game, you will have 12 games, but if you lose each month then you will have 24. Before you use any of the Legacy components, you can also play an unlimited number of games of &quot;standard&quot; Pandemic (or something very close to it), but once you start opening packets and putting on stickers you're in for those 12-24 games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T01:37:46.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27406" CreationDate="2015-11-02T02:25:46.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can win&lt;/strong&gt;, if you are careful with the triggers. Remember, when multiple abilities trigger at the same time, you get to choose what order to put them on the stack. The key here is to sacrifice creatures in response to the Grim Haruspex trigger so that it never resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, after Rally The Ancestors resolves, you can win by doing the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrifice one of the Grim Haruspex with the Nantuko Husk's ability. One Grim Haruspex ability triggers, along with Zulaport Cutthroat's ability. Put the Grim Haruspex's ability on the stack first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the Zulaport Cutthroat's ability to resolve. Your opponent is at 2 life, and the Grim Haruspex's ability is on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrifice the other Grim Haruspex. Zulaport Cutthroat's ability triggers again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the Cutthroat's ability to resolve. Your opponent is at 1 life, and the Grim Haruspex's ability is still on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sacrifice the Nantuko Shade. Zulaport Cutthroat's ability triggers a third time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow the Cutthraot's ability to resolve. Your opponent goes to 0 life, and you win the game with the Haruspex's ability still on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; win if the Nantuko Husk is replaced with 3 Fleshbag Marauders. In that situation, once Rally the Ancestors resolves, you will have 3 triggered abilities from the Fleshbag Marauder on the stack. Then, you can do nothing but let one of them resolve. When it does, no matter which creature you sacrifice, you put on the stack 1 Zulaport Cutthroat trigger and at least 1 Grim Haruspex trigger. This means that you will have to let a Grim Haruspex ability resolve before you have the opportunity to sacrifice another creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T02:25:46.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27406" CreationDate="2015-11-02T02:25:57.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you sacrifice a creature, both the &quot;draw a card&quot; and the &quot;opponent loses a life&quot; will trigger. You choose the order in which to put the stack. You put draw a card on first, so that it resolves last. After Zulaport resolves and opponent takes a damage, you then respond by sacrificing another creature, and repeat in the exact same way. When your opponent loses his last life, there will be 6 &quot;draw a card&quot; triggers on the stack, but the game will be over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T02:25:57.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27410" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27411" CreationDate="2015-11-02T09:47:25.807" Score="3" ViewCount="3016" Body="&lt;p&gt;When choosing a creature to sacrifice (originated from a &quot;sacrifice a creature&quot; instruction), if the creature that is being sacrificed has &quot;sacrifice this creature (for whatever result)&quot;, does it trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it make any difference if the target creature is a forced sacrifice instead of a volunteered sacrifice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example scenario:&#xA;I play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=226890&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altar's Reap&lt;/a&gt; to draw 2 cards and target &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bile Urchin&lt;/a&gt; as the sacrifice. Does this trigger Bile Urchin's &quot;&lt;em&gt;Sacrifice Bile Urchin: Target player loses 1 life.&lt;/em&gt;&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I may have thought about this for too long and confused myself, so a little clarification would be great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14064" LastEditorUserId="14064" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T10:40:25.113" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T10:40:25.113" Title="Does &quot;Sacrifice a creature&quot; trigger &quot;sacrifice this creature&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-11-02T11:33:33.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27411" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27410" CreationDate="2015-11-02T10:02:09.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It will not.&lt;/strong&gt; Sacrificing is a cost paid for the effect to go on stack. Just like you can not spend 1 mana on different costs, you can not spend 1 creature on different costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you wanted it to work the way you described, the ability should be a triggered one, for example it could read: 'When this creature is sacrificed, ...'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, keep in mind that sacrificing is not &lt;strong&gt;targeting&lt;/strong&gt; anything. Untargettable creatures can still be sacrificed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T10:02:09.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27401" CreationDate="2015-11-02T10:06:19.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Spawn 1 monster on a space&quot; - you only spawn one cultist, and you, as a group, chose which space will that be if more than 1 option is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T10:06:19.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27414" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27419" CreationDate="2015-11-02T13:30:49.443" Score="3" ViewCount="248" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supply-Line%20Cranes&quot;&gt;Supply-Line Cranes&lt;/a&gt; enter the battlefield, put a +1/+1 counter on target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the cranes target themselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13897" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-11-02T15:05:45.563" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T15:09:23.903" Title="Can Supply-Line Cranes supply themselves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27414" CreationDate="2015-11-02T13:39:24.880" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  The &quot;When&quot; phrase makes that a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;triggered ability&lt;/a&gt;, that triggers once the cranes are on the battlefield.  When it triggers, it is put on the stack.  When it resolves, the cranes are on the battlefield, and thus a legitimate target for the crane.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T13:39:24.880" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27414" CreationDate="2015-11-02T13:52:52.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this text, Target creature can be any creature, Supply-Line Cranes is a creature, and - quite rightly said above - is on the battlefield when the ability resolves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the word &quot;another&quot; was placed before target creature in this text, this would mean any creature bar Supply-Line Cranes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T13:52:52.013" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27418" CreationDate="2015-11-02T14:05:20.017" Score="6" ViewCount="2995" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where - if anywhere - can I go to put forward a proposal of a new card in magic the gathering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I figured that the cards must go through a process before being released. I was wondering if I could get my ideas onto the process chain. Can I contact anyone to do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking on the Magic wizards site, I kinda got lost in the FAQs looking for this and run up a blank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-18T10:52:44.500" LastActivityDate="2017-10-18T10:52:44.500" Title="How and where can I propose new MTG cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27417" CreationDate="2015-11-02T14:24:53.337" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast employees are not allowed to look at unsolicited card designs, from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizards.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2236&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards of the Coast FAQ on Idea Submissions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Game Submissions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We do not review unsolicited game or card submissions, return submissions, or make comments on submissions we haven't reviewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want other people to look at and critique your designs you can go to places like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/creativity/custom-card-creation&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation's Custom Card Creation forum&lt;/a&gt;, but the only way to make actual cards is to work for Wizards or submit your design for something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/You_Make_the_Card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;You Make the Card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T14:47:33.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27414" CreationDate="2015-11-02T15:09:23.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. It is a valid target because it is on the battlefield when the trigger happens. What happens, in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supply-Line Cranes enters the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game checks for any triggers that happen as a result of this event.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supply-Line Cranes' trigger is found, and it triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You put the trigger on the stack, and must choose a target at that time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supply-Line Cranes is a creature (and it's on the battlefield) at this time, so it is a valid target for you to choose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the trigger resolves, Supply-Line Cranes is still a valid target, so it resolves, putting the counter on Supply-Line Cranes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other answers are correct, but fail to mention that you must choose the target when the triggered ability goes on the stack, so it matters that it's a valid target when it triggers, not so much that it's a valid target when it resolves. (If it stopped being a valid target before it resolved, because it were destroyed with an instant or something, then the ability would be countered and go away. But it would still have been a valid/legal target in the first place).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T15:09:23.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27420" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27421" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:15:07.743" Score="4" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to trade resources for development cards another player is holding in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10142" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T17:21:33.293" Title="Can I trade a resource for a development card?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27421" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27420" CreationDate="2015-11-02T17:21:33.293" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;No it is not. Development cards cannot be traded at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/en/download/?SoC_rv_Rules_091907.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You cannot trade or give away Development Cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T17:21:33.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27417" CreationDate="2015-11-02T19:00:15.167" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only real way this could have been done was by winning the Magic Invitational Tournament but alas that no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Magic Invitational Tournament, formerly called the Duelist&#xA;  Invitational, is a tournament in which successful pro-players are&#xA;  gathered by Wizards of the Coasts to play round-robin in various&#xA;  formats, often joke formats or very unusual formats. During the&#xA;  tournament, the players submit card ideas. The winner of the&#xA;  tournament will get to design a card to see print in a future set, of&#xA;  course after R&amp;amp;D had it's input on the card. However, the card to see&#xA;  print is not necessarily the same card as submitted in the tournament&#xA;  and sometimes not even remotely related to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/Invitational_Cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SOURCE&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T19:00:15.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25804" CreationDate="2015-11-02T20:33:19.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there can't be two winners at the same time even if they have the same point total. You can win only on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player C wins, because he reaches ten points (after adding the village) &lt;strong&gt;on his turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Player C started with eight points, and added a village for nine, then play would continue to Player A. That's true even though Player B has ten points, because Player A might break up Player B's longest road (or do something else to reduce his point total). If the play then gets around to Player B and he still has ten points, he wins without playing, because someone else &quot;made&quot; his ten points for him. But he can't win until his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:33:19.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19177" CreationDate="2015-11-02T20:48:26.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules actually say that stations are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; used, right at the beginning it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is an expansion and requires that you use the following game parts from a previous version of Ticket to Ride:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A reserve of 45 trains per team and matching Scoring Markers taken from Ticket to Ride or Ticket to Ride Europe&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;110 Train Car Cards taken from the same or the USA 1910 expansion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this makes no mention of stations, you should exclude them from your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-02T20:48:26.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27425" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27432" CreationDate="2015-11-03T01:37:54.040" Score="7" ViewCount="7288" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inside of the vault has icons that draw cards, so once you've cracked it does your movement stop? (Obviously it has already stopped if you only just discovered the vault and drew an event card, so I'm referring to when it isn't newly discovered.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know movement is stopped when drawing a card from discovering a new room with a card symbol. The rules and the errata/FAQ mention stopping movement &quot;upon drawing a card&quot; (usually from room discovery) so I've been interpreting it to apply in this case as well on the merit that it's &quot;drawing a card&quot;, and from a room icon no less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3683" LastEditorUserId="3683" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T10:11:54.137" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T10:11:54.137" Title="Does successfully opening the vault end your movement due to drawing the item cards?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27997" CreationDate="2015-11-03T02:47:46.790" Score="5" ViewCount="1083" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was younger my parents bought a few board games and left them at my grandparents for us. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was one game which had a plastic space ship mounted on a stick over the board, and it had a pump to propel the astronauts &lt;strong&gt;into the spaceship&lt;/strong&gt;. You moved around the board and then when you got to the end you could pump your astronaut(s) into the spaceship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think there was a spinner similar to the one in the Game of Life, and the astronauts were green, blue, red and yellow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone have any idea what game this might be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11848" LastEditorUserId="11848" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T16:06:18.983" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:23:47.233" Title="A board game with astronauts?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27426" CreationDate="2015-11-03T03:22:27.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/22914/rocket-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rocket Race&lt;/a&gt; appears to involve a pump:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An innovative space game with a real flying rocket! The astronauts are trying to get home from the alien planet but the air from the ground keeps blowing them off the path – the players use the pump to control the air streams. The first one to reach the rocket safely gets to fly home in it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/images/boardgame/22914/rocket-race&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the image gallery&lt;/a&gt; to see for sure whether it's what you remember. It's hard to see from those pictures but it does have a spinner too, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tactic.net/site/rules/UK/01535.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;. The astronaut pieces are the colors you mentioned, too, though those are pretty common color choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T03:35:39.193" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T03:35:39.193" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27425" CreationDate="2015-11-03T03:57:07.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't give a clarification on this exact point, but as you say, the wording is that you stop moving when you draw a card. I have always interpreted that literally, so if you draw a card from the vault or by any other means, you must stop moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T03:57:07.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27429" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T07:48:03.720" Score="3" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to judge the suitability of Epic Spell Wars for one of my kids and wanted to know if the sticker on the front was accurate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having watched the table-top episode there was a lot of swearing from the players but it wasn't obvious that the cards were actually the cause, just the general setup and flavour (Pisster and testikill for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2810" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T09:47:10.753" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T01:25:51.417" Title="Does Epic Spell Wars actually contain profanity?" Tags="|epic-spell-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27430" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:46:21.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This tag covers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epic Spell Wars of the Battle Wizards: Duel at Mt. Skullzfyre&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epic Spell Wars of the Battle Wizards: Rumble at Castle Tentakill&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Future Epic Spell Wars releases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:22:58.750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:22:58.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27431" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:46:21.783" Score="0" Body="A group of card games depicting comic, over-the-top battles between wizards." OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:22:58.750" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:22:58.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27425" CreationDate="2015-11-03T09:55:58.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, drawing a card &lt;strong&gt;for any reason&lt;/strong&gt; ends your movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you pointed out, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/HOTH_Rules.zip&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 5) make it clear that drawing a room tile with a card symbol does this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first time you discover a room with a card symbol, you must end your move in that room and draw the appropriate card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for movement (page 4) clarify this further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a game effect makes you draw a card, you must STOP moving for the rest of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any game effect which makes you draw cards (and if you're not cheating you should only be drawing cards based on 'game effects'!) ends your movement. This includes things such as successfully opening the puzzle box item, so try that at the end of your turn unless you really need the item!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T09:55:58.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27400" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:31:28.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have changed my mind but I have no official ruling on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you have to resolve &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the reckoning effects and order should not matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, during a reckoning: If you are devoured, that would end your turn right there. If you are either killed or driven insane, that does end your turn. Thus, it would seem logical that Lost In Time and Space would end your turn as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus you would not be doing &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; reckoning events after those ones.  You dodge those bullets for this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lost In Time And Space was added in an expansion, I am not sure if this is covered by the FAQ or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even going by the golden rule of cooperative games: &lt;em&gt;If a rule can be interpreted in several ways, the right one is the least helpful to the players&lt;/em&gt;, the reading would be that yes, you stop doing any reckoning events once you are Lost In Time And Space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T08:03:01.850" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T08:03:01.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27401" CreationDate="2015-11-03T11:34:54.237" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They key is language used: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spawn 1 Cultist Monster on &lt;strong&gt;a space&lt;/strong&gt; containing a Mystery token, Eldritch token, or Epic Monster.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reads differently to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spawn 1 Cultist Monster on &lt;strong&gt;each space&lt;/strong&gt; containing a Mystery token, Eldritch token, or Epic Monster.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, the reckoning is to spawn &lt;em&gt;a single cultist&lt;/em&gt; on any space containing a Mystery token, Eldritch token, or Epic Monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T13:34:55.263" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:34:55.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27429" CreationDate="2015-11-03T13:49:30.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, aside from the rulebook's preamble, it does not contain profanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Samples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sir Lootzor's // Polished // Snakedance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ben Voodoo's // Boulder-iffic // Bedazzlement&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pam and Hecuba's // Two-faced // Cone of Acid&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Midnight Merlin's // Devilicious // Power Vortex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whirly Do's // Burst-o-Ramic // Meatier Swarm&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At worst, it's just a couple of cards that can be removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook of the sequel (Rumble at Castle Tentakill) is clean, and the following are the only offending cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bitch Witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sexsquatch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dr Gravelovers (the art is iffy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auto-Erotic &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The F-U Suit (spelled exactly like this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T01:25:51.417" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T01:25:51.417" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25424" CreationDate="2015-11-03T17:04:50.657" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reading though the rules it seems clear to me that if a creature is equipped and then that equipped creature is mind controlled, you can reattach that equipment to a creature you control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobody ever does this though, like ever. The rules seem so clear but I don't want to try this due to fear of being shot down or violating some kind of play etiquette I don't know about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14205" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-11-03T17:33:58.987" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T17:33:58.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27437" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T18:43:08.840" Score="3" ViewCount="1231" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should reckoning effects on an investigator's conditions execute as if done simultaneously (starting with the lead investigator)?  Two situations come to mind here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If a reckoning effect condition results in my investigator being blessed or cursed, should I wait until after resolving all other reckoning effects to put the new condition into play (i.e. not benefit from the blessed condition for the other reckoning effects)?  This would effectively be like executing the effects simultanously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If a reckoning effect &lt;em&gt;kills&lt;/em&gt; my investigator, should I resolve all other effects as well? The case I am thinking of is where the Dark Pact roll of 1 results in &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; investigator being devoured.  If my investigator dies from another effect, does he get to skip resolving this dark pact or should he have to resolve it as well, as if simultaneous?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly, this question came to mind because of a recent answer on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/27400/if-i-am-lost-in-time-and-space-during-a-reckoning-effect-resolution-do-i-contin/27433#27433&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:44:33.197" Title="Should reckoning effects be executed as if done simultaneously?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27438" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-03T21:02:27.933" Score="3" ViewCount="5145" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a prevent all damage from a green source and I am attacked with a creature who is black green and the opponent has paid for its hexproof ability, will I still be protected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14207" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T07:25:57.170" Title="Protection from color vs hexproof" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27437" CreationDate="2015-11-03T21:29:24.657" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get to determine the order of the effects, but they do not happen simultaneously. Thus you should resolve curse effect first and blessings last. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do note that if a reckoning effect causes you to gain a card (e.g. a condition) that has its own reckoning effect you do not have to resolve the reckoning effect on the new card until the next reckoning. Basically, once the reckoning phase begins, the list of things that need to be resolved is fixed for that round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And, yes, if your investigator is defeated by a reckoning effect you do not continue to resolve reckoning effects on his/her remaining items. Defeats are immediate and you discard all conditions and tokens (except clues) and set the investigator aside along with his possessions. This can also cause you to loose beneficial effects that the investigator was providing to others on his/her space. So, again, the order you resolve the effects does matter, even between investigators where you are supposed to follow the usual turn order (lead first, then clockwise).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The case in the question you cite is a little less clear. Lost in time and space usually allows an investigator to skip resolving reckoning effects. But you could argue that all the items' reckoning effects are triggered already (just unresolved) and since you take the items with you you have to continue to resolve them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastEditorUserId="13233" LastEditDate="2018-02-08T13:44:33.197" LastActivityDate="2018-02-08T13:44:33.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27441" CreationDate="2015-11-03T22:17:30.277" Score="7" ViewCount="7074" Body="&lt;p&gt;I gain control over a creature with e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypnotic%20Siren&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Siren&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;Do I lose control over that creature if the enchantment is destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14208" LastEditorUserId="5048" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T12:25:03.493" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T20:32:38.023" Title="Do I lose control of a creature if the aura which granted me control of it is destroyed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27440" CreationDate="2015-11-03T22:56:16.317" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHypnotic%20Siren%5d&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Siren&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;You control enchanted creature.&quot; This is a continuous effect that's present as long as Hypnotic Siren is on the battlefield enchanting a creature. Once it's gone, that effect goes away and you'll lose control of the creature, giving it back to whoever had it before. (In common situations, anyway - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/38798/409&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; for details.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you used Hypnotic Siren as just one example, though, I should mention that not everything works that way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a card simply reads &quot;Gain control of X&quot; and doesn't mention a duration (e.g. &quot;until end of turn&quot;), that effect lasts indefinitely. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBeguiler%20of%20Wills%5d&quot;&gt;Beguiler of Wills&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}: Gain control of target creature with power less than or equal to the number of creatures you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That effect lasts indefinitely; you'll get to keep the creature for the rest of the game, unless someone else has a way to gain control of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-10-14T20:32:38.023" LastActivityDate="2017-10-14T20:32:38.023" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27440" CreationDate="2015-11-03T23:02:24.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you lose control of the creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantments with static abilities only work as long as the enchantment is on the battlefield. If the enchantment is destroyed, the effect immediately ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3. A continuous effect may be generated by the static ability of an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3b The effect applies at all times that the permanent generating it is on the battlefield or the object generating it is in the appropriate zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Logically, the reverse of that rule says that if the permanent leaves the battlefield (or generally the object leaves the appropriate zone), the effect ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are some cards that permanently change control of permanents, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keiga%2C%20the%20Tide%20Star&quot;&gt;Keiga, the Tide Star&lt;/a&gt; when it dies. If a control-changing effect is not the result of a static ability but the result of a one-shot spell or ability, the change of control is permanent unless the effect has a duration specified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-11-03T23:02:24.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27438" CreationDate="2015-11-04T03:19:54.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The damage is still prevented.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario you describe seems to be one in which your opponent controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reaper%20of%20the%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Reaper of the Wilds&lt;/a&gt; and you control either &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Circle%20of%20Protection%3A%20Green&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Green&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rune%20of%20Protection%3A%20Green&quot;&gt;Rune of Protection: Green&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Hexproof&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rule describing Hexproof&lt;/a&gt;, 702.11b, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Hexproof” on a permanent means “This permanent can’t be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key word here is &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;. Hexproof only prevents spells and abilities from targeting the creature, not from affecting them in general. Targets are described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Targets&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 114&lt;/a&gt;, and rule 114.1d says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An activated ability is targeted if it identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],”&lt;/strong&gt; where the “something” is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone. The target(s) are chosen as the ability is activated; see rule 602.2b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if we look at the damage prevention cards, we see that Circle of Protection: Green says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}: The next time a green source of your choice would deal damage to you this turn, prevent that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and Rune of Protection: Green says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{W}: The next time a green source of your choice would deal damage to you this turn, prevent that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither of those uses the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;, so neither of them targets the source they are affecting. This means that Reaper of the Wilds' Hexproof does not stop them from preventing the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T07:25:57.170" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T07:25:57.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27446" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:30:55.893" Score="6" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to play Arkham tonight with a couple of friends which they don't have any previous Lovecraft experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any short text which I could use to introduce them to the Cthulhu Mythos and to what they're about to experience?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="288" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T11:25:43.430" Title="Arkham Horror: Is there any thematic introductory text out there for first time players?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27445" CreationDate="2015-11-04T09:39:07.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each of the investigators has some flavour on the back of their investigator card. I've found using that gives the player some insight in to the strange going ons in Arkham, but leaves them just enough in the dark for it to remain mysterious. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you read out all the encounter cards and not just get to the business end of things in order to roll dice. Without all the flavour text from the encounters, things can get rather...maddening &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T11:25:43.430" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T11:25:43.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2015-11-04T11:04:03.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that &lt;a href=&quot;http://rankade.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rankade.com&lt;/a&gt; suits your needs.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My friends and I use it to keep score and rankings from over 100 games, and with over 600 matches. You can see the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rankade.com/trepaste&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;public page of our group here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's free, with apps for mobile (both iOS and Android) and webapp (which I like more, as it has more charts and features than the app). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also have different groups for sports or other games, not only boardgames. For example, I think it's nearly perfect for table football and table tennis.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12893" LastEditorUserId="12893" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T09:17:10.420" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T09:17:10.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-04T13:09:30.337" Score="1" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played as &lt;code&gt;Witch&lt;/code&gt; and bewitched &lt;code&gt;Thief&lt;/code&gt;. The &lt;code&gt;Thief&lt;/code&gt; has previously built the &lt;code&gt;Powder Tower&lt;/code&gt; and would like to use it at the turn he's bewitched.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the &lt;code&gt;Thief&lt;/code&gt; or the &lt;code&gt;Witch&lt;/code&gt; use the &lt;code&gt;Powder Tower&lt;/code&gt; this turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T14:03:23.103" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T12:44:36.243" Title="Can the Powder Tower be used while its owner is bewitched?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27448" CreationDate="2015-11-04T14:00:17.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one can use the Powder Tower this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Thief can't use the Powder Tower, because he's bewitched he loses his turn after taking his action (choose 2 gold or 1 card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Witch, when you bewitch another character you still play with your own city. Since the Powder Tower is not in your city, you can't use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quote from the rules that best describes this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the bewitched character is called upon, its player must show his character card, take an action, and then immediately end his turn. [...] You now resume this player’s turn as if you were playing the bewitched character,&#xA;  using all the character’s powers in &lt;strong&gt;your city&lt;/strong&gt;. You still build districts from your hand of cards and pay with your gold (including taxes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T12:44:36.243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T12:44:36.243" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27451" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16709" CreationDate="2015-11-04T16:53:31.073" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends and I use &lt;a href=&quot;http://rankade.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rankade&lt;/a&gt;, which has an app both for iOS and Android (but I prefer the webapp, personally, as it has the graphs). You can use it for every game, and the thing I like the most is the fact that it gives you the whole history (and rankings) for both the group (collective matches) and for each single boardgame. I don't think it can track every single metadata you're asking, though.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12893" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T16:53:31.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27382" CreationDate="2015-11-04T17:56:24.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes a 4-4 fit plays better as trumps than the 5-3 fit with regards to using the long suit for discards, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: Axxx  | Kxxx&#xA;H: AQJxx | Kxx &#xA;D: Kxx   | Axx&#xA;C: x     | Axx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you can make 6 spades if trumps break 3-2 as you can draw 2 rounds of trumps, discard a diamond on one of the long hearts and then ruff a diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move one of the small clubs from East's hand into hearts and still you can make 6 spades but in neither hand can you make 6 hearts (even though with the adjustment you have a 5-4 fit now) as you have to lose a diamond and a spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 5-3 trump fit is likely to work better when you have strong trumps and want to draw all the trumps then set up a trick elsewhere. If trumps break 4-1 you will still have a trump to stop another side suit. It can also work better if trumps break 4-1 and your opponent tries &quot;drawing&quot; all your trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario I think you were referring to is where they can only &quot;force&quot; in one suit and are going to do so twice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S: KQxx  | Axxx&#xA;   H: QJxxx | KTx&#xA;   D: Kxx   | AQx&#xA;   C: x     | xxx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A weaker set of hands now but you don't need a diamond discard. If you are playing 4 spades and they start with 2 rounds of clubs, you ruff and play KQ of spades noting they break 4-1 then play on hearts. If they get a ruff it's with a natural trump trick for them anyway but if they take the ace and force with another club you have a trump to handle that. If hearts are 4-1 too they can only beat you if the long heart hand has the ace of clubs and they get two ruffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If hearts are trumps and they and are 4-1 you lose 2 trump tricks now as well as a club and a spade if they are also 4-1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If spades are 3-2 you still risk losing control in hearts. They play 2 rounds of clubs and you ruff. Draw trumps but the defender with Axxx takes his ace on the 3rd round and leads another club. So when you find trumps are 4-1 you don't play a third one but play on the side suits and let your opponent ruff in. If he plays yet another club you ruff and continue on with the side suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="980" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T17:56:24.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27454" CreationDate="2015-11-04T18:46:57.643" Score="2" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383328&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nissa, Worldwaker&lt;/a&gt; will get a whole bunch of new lands and make them into Elementals, but are there any way to make all the lands you currently have on the battlefield into Elementals, even for a turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14217" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T18:57:14.957" Title="Efficient Elemental Manland Creation" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27453" CreationDate="2015-11-04T18:52:10.147" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want your lands to specifically have the &amp;quot;elemental&amp;quot; creature type:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liege%20of%20the%20Tangle&quot;&gt;Liege of the Tangle&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't care what creature type they are, as long as they're creatures:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jolrael%2C%20Empress%20of%20Beasts&quot;&gt;Jolrael, Empress of Beasts&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life&quot;&gt;Life&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Plane&quot;&gt;Living Plane&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Natural%20Affinity&quot;&gt;Natural Affinity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Natural%20Emergence&quot;&gt;Natural Emergence&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25592&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nature's Revolt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rude%20Awakening&quot;&gt;Rude Awakening&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only need a single type of land to be animated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Forests&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ambush%20Commander&quot;&gt;Ambush Commander&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Living%20Lands&quot;&gt;Living Lands&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thelonite%20Druid&quot;&gt;Thelonite Druid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Life%20and%20Limb&quot;&gt;Life and Limb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Swamps&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kormus%20Bell&quot;&gt;Kormus Bell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastEditorUserId="5783" LastEditDate="2015-11-04T18:57:14.957" LastActivityDate="2015-11-04T18:57:14.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27455" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27586" CreationDate="2015-11-05T02:59:16.567" Score="3" ViewCount="3887" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently some friends and I got together to play the Game of Thrones board game, but the game didn't happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We spent an hour setting the game up, and started learning the rules, before giving up as too complicated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the games master I screwed up by not being more prepared (ie. familiarising myself with the rules before hand), but I get the feeling that this might have been a difficult task anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the best way to introduce this game to people who haven't played before? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T01:42:22.120" Title="What's the best way to teach/learn the Game of Thrones board game for people who haven't played before?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-11-24T09:37:42.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27461" CreationDate="2015-11-05T04:49:38.757" Score="2" ViewCount="5483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking at this link&#xA;and was kind of confused. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/473/in-magic-when-can-i-tap-my-opponents-creatures-to-prevent-them-from-attacking/538#538?newreg=6bc67848af4e447fbd0224ec8f2539e1&quot;&gt;In Magic, when can I tap my opponent&amp;#39;s creatures to prevent them from attacking?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;So if a instant says tap target creature and they attack I have basically have to either do 2 things. Asks if they are on combat phase or if they rush to attacking phase say something like before you attack. &#xA;I was wondering because if you wait for them to declare attackers then you tap target creature they have to reconsider if they want to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another note there is a card that taps target attacking or blocking creature if I'm correct (might be exile) if so what are the rules on that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14223" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T11:46:13.810" Title="In magic the gathering can I tap a creature at the attacking/blocking phase?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27458" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:05:41.040" Score="5" ViewCount="1462" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an opponent attacks me with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guiltfeeder&quot;&gt;Guiltfeeder&lt;/a&gt;, and I destroy it with an Instant after it has been declared an Attacker, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fear&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever Guiltfeeder attacks and isn't blocked, defending player loses 1 life for each card in his or her graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it has been destroyed, it's impossible to declare blockers against it, but the ability is still on the stack (I think?), so I'm not sure what the outcome is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T06:33:58.643" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T06:39:20.363" Title="Does guiltfeeder still cause loss of life if it's killed by an instant after attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27457" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:32:20.670" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guiltfeeder&quot;&gt;Guiltfeeder&lt;/a&gt; makes this pretty clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ability that triggers when something &amp;quot;attacks and isn't blocked&amp;quot; triggers in the declare blockers step after blockers are declared if (1) that creature is attacking and (2) no creatures are declared to block it. It will trigger even if that creature was put onto the battlefield attacking rather than having been declared as an attacker in the declare attackers step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's destroyed after declaring attackers but before declaring blockers (or lack thereof), there won't be any loss of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability doesn't go onto the stack until the declare blockers step (and then only if it's still attacking and unblocked). So if it's already dead by then, the ability never goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for some reason someone wants it dead before combat damage, but wants the loss of life to happen, they could kill it during the declare blockers phase, after the ability triggered. At that point the ability would still resolve as normal, even with the Guiltfeeder gone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, either the ability has triggered and will cause loss of life, or it hasn't triggered at all. There's no odd in between state where it triggers then changes its mind, as your question suggests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T06:39:20.363" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T06:39:20.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27457" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:36:41.613" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Guiltfeeder will &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; cause you to lose life because the declare blockers phase has not happened, so that trigger was never put on the stack in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were to kill it during the declare blockers phase, that is to declare no blockers then remove the Guiltfeeder, the trigger would have already been put on the stack and would resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if the Guiltfeeder is no longer on the battlefield during the declare blockers phase, that effect will not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14224" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T06:36:41.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27460" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27456" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:38:01.587" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players commonly say something like &amp;quot;combat?&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;attackers?&amp;quot; which is basically a short way of asking &amp;quot;I am ready to declare attackers, do you have any spells or abilities you want to use in the beginning of combat step?&amp;quot;  This is your last chance to tap anything.  If you say no then they can proceed with declaring attackers, which is a so called &amp;quot;turn based action&amp;quot; that you cannot interrupt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player just starts turning things sideways and declaring attacks without giving you a chance to act, you can ask them to please rewind to the Beginning of Combat Step.  However, you are not allowed to &amp;quot;fish&amp;quot; for information about their intended attackers and then try to use abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature becomes an 'Attacking Creature' as soon as it's declared an attacker, so you can target it with &amp;quot;target attacking creature&amp;quot; spells/abilities anytime from before declaring blockers up to End of Combat before the second main phase starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise a declared blocker is a valid target for 'Blocking Creature' spells/abilities before or after combat damage, until the second main phase starts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sometimes catches new players off guard with a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Celestial%20Flare&quot;&gt;Celestial Flare&lt;/a&gt; since if you attack with say, two weak creatures and a strong one, I could kill your two weak creatures with blockers then cast Celestial Flare during the End of Combat Step and force you to sacrifice your strong creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T06:38:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27456" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:45:54.890" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always ask your opponent to &quot;rewind&quot; phases if they attempt to skip through them.  According to the rules, each player gets a chance to act within all phases, however, many players choose to skip through the phases in interests of saving time. A player is never allowed to &quot;rush&quot; you through a phase. They will need to reset their creatures to how they existed before attackers were declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular case, if they move to attack step before you get a chance to respond, I would politely inform them that I wish to cast a spell during the &quot;begin combat&quot; phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your side note: there are many cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398488&quot;&gt;Celestial Flare&lt;/a&gt; that effect attackers or blockers (scroll down to the bottom for example rulings that I believe you will find helpful)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14224" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T06:45:54.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27462" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-05T06:54:42.343" Score="4" ViewCount="2297" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm having friends over this weekend and we are going to play Forbidden Island, we are 5 all in all and was wondering if we can play Forbidden Island with 5 players. Are there any adjustments to be made? Will the additional player make the game too easy or all in all break the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14085" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:16:14.397" Title="Forbidden Island - Extending to 5 players" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2018-01-28T18:34:28.690" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27463" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27464" CreationDate="2015-11-05T09:00:46.673" Score="5" ViewCount="444" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently in the following situation. I had an untapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sunscorch%20regent&quot;&gt;sunscorch regent&lt;/a&gt; and 5 life. It was my opponents turn and he cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beacon%20of%20destruction&quot;&gt;Beacon of destruction&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would I have died or would I have 1 life remaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14201" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T17:13:35.517" Title="Life gain against fatal spell damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27463" CreationDate="2015-11-05T09:13:46.930" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would have 1 life remaining. Action order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent casts Beacon of Destruction, it goes on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sunscorch Regent triggers, it goes on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If both players pass, the stack starts resolving top to bottom. First you gain 1 life and put a counter on Regent. You now have 6 life. Next, Beacon resolves, you are dealt 5 damage and now have 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T09:13:46.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3689" CreationDate="2015-11-05T15:29:03.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Russia should only buy infantry on the through fourth turn, and almost always be on the defense. Taking East Germany is critical, as Germany has a very weak force there  and it will reduce the number of troops you have on the front lines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14228" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T15:29:03.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-05T19:11:31.927" Score="1" ViewCount="64" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose two players in a game of poker (assume Texas Hold'em) have cards with the same values. For example, Player A and Player B have the cards 4 &amp;amp; 9.&#xA;The board shows a 2,3,4,7, and 8 face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who would be the winner, Player A or Player B?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14231" LastEditorUserId="12718" LastEditDate="2015-11-05T21:04:22.997" LastActivityDate="2015-11-05T21:04:22.997" Title="In case of same card in both player" Tags="|poker|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-11-05T22:00:00.400" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27256" CreationDate="2015-11-06T03:11:59.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Omega is banished it is banished to the owner's side of the field (not the controllers) so when Omega does return to the field, it returns at the owner's Standby Phase and to the owner's field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/en/rulebook/EN_SDSE_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh! Official Rulebook Ver 9.1 page 49&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Control&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the wiki&lt;/a&gt;, when the Omega and a card from your opponent's hand is banished, they're sent to your opponent's (the owner's) Banished Zone. So when it's your opponent's Standby Phase, the effect kicks-off under his/her control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14237" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T10:20:48.710" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T10:20:48.710" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27471" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:12:48.953" Score="2" ViewCount="422" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my friend thinks that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cowardice&quot;&gt;Cowardice&lt;/a&gt; will get rid of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitus&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; but since a spell can't target &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitus&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; it can't target it. Now he also said I can target it but it fizzles but he would be doing an illegal move if I'm correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitus&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; off the field? I know counterspells can and anything that doesn't directly target &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Progenitus&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; such as sacrifice a creature you control or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383275&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;In Garruk's Wake&lt;/a&gt; if I'm correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically as long as it doesn't specifically say target creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm doing a hydra deck but my friends run counterspells so I'm thinking of using Boseiju, Who Shelters All, Cavern of Souls, Grand Abolisher, and Banefire. (White Green Hydras) (Can run red for Bane)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically I wanna be able to get my big creatures on the field without being countered (also this would be on side board since only 2 of my friends run counters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14223" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T13:51:11.723" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T15:15:50.983" Title="Progentius vs Cowardice" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:15:35.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mini Dice and flipped cards. My friends typically up just use dice. If you want you can easily get a lot of token cards since almost all of them are super cheap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14223" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T04:15:35.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27469" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:21:29.247" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct that Cowardice is of no benefit vs. Progenitus.  Declaring Progenitus to be the target of something is an illegal action so you back up to just before it was done, it doesn't &amp;quot;Happen but fizzle.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The easy way to keep track of protection is the acronym DEBT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D - Damage, the thing you have protection from cannot damage you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E - Enchant and Equip, the thing you have protection from cannot enchant you or be equipped to you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B - Block, the thing you have protection from cannot block you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;T - Target, the thing you have protection from cannot target you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20of%20Judgment&quot;&gt;Day of Judgment&lt;/a&gt; can remove Progenitus because it does none of those things.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fleshbag%20Marauder&quot;&gt;Fleshbag Marauder&lt;/a&gt; could also get rid of Progenitus if you have nothing else to sacrifice, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T04:21:29.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5714" CreationDate="2015-11-06T04:33:08.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is some really amazing land that can help against it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cavern of souls. &#xA;Just remember what creature you picked (works well with one or two types of creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boseiju, Who Shelters All.&#xA;As long as you like losing a little bit of health for a sorcery spell or an instant your fine. Just remember you can only have one of these on the field at a time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly Grand Abolisher.&#xA;Even though this isn't a land its great against counter spells since they will never be able to do anything on your turn. The bad is if they can kill it on their turn by dealing two damage to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are really nice when versing counter spells but there is other stuff too!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14223" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2019-01-26T22:03:41.503" LastActivityDate="2019-01-26T22:03:41.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27469" CreationDate="2015-11-06T11:36:48.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cowardice will have no effect of old proggy. Cowardice bounces things that get targeted but because old proggy has protection from everything everything that is a thing cannot target it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember the DEBT rule for when you are dealing with protection. A permanent with proteection from X cannot be...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealt DAMAGE from X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted / Equipped / Fortified  by X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blocked by X&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TARGETED by x&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="6676" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T15:15:50.983" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T15:15:50.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27456" CreationDate="2015-11-06T11:46:13.810" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The obvious time to tap thing like this is to do it in the beginning of combat step. That is to say after the first main phase but before attackers are declared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you tap things in your opponents main phase he can still use the permanents tap abilities in response and play things at sorcery speed. Which is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beginning of combat step is after the main phase though so no sorcery speed things can be played then but it is still before attackers are declared so tapping creatures here will keep them from attacking (Unless your opponent has a way to untap them before attackers are declared.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly you should know this but your opponent cannot steamroll you into not doing things in certain parts of the turn. He cannot go from the main phase to the declare attackers phase without giving you a chance to do things in the beginning of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phases are only ended when priority is skipped by both players on an empty stack. Don't get intimidated like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T11:46:13.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27478" CreationDate="2015-11-06T17:01:22.583" Score="0" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other day I was in a situation where my opponent had 3 creatures on the board (4/4, 3/3, 1/1) and I had one creature on the board (6/6). My opponent attacked with all three creatures and I chose to block the 4/4 with my 6/6. Then my opponent played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Divine Verdict&lt;/a&gt; on my 6/6 then also tried to play  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypsis&quot;&gt;Crypsis&lt;/a&gt; on the 4/4 that I blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in assuming that it was too late for the protection from creature card to be played because the combat damage had already been done?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T03:57:40.680" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T03:57:40.680" Title="When can protection from creatures be played" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27463" CreationDate="2015-11-06T17:13:35.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember that the last to trigger is the first to resolve. Your opponent will have played a spell which will trigger your dragons ability and then when things start resolving you will gain a life and put a counter on before the spell that triggered your dragon gets a chance to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T17:13:35.517" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27477" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27479" CreationDate="2015-11-06T17:20:09.613" Score="9" ViewCount="1232" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got talking to a long term payer who when I asked him why he got into MTG told me that he was heavy into the FPS shooters of the 90's but as a teenager developed a tremor in his hands that made dexterity-based FPS games impossible for him to play competitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He told me that he read somewhere that MTG is not a game based on dexterity and he got curious as to what that meant and got into the game from there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to where this phrase originates from. I have heard rules experts quote it before. It seems rather famous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T17:41:06.390" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T17:18:17.427" Title="Where does the phrase &quot;MTG is not a game about reflexes&quot; come from?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27475" CreationDate="2015-11-06T17:21:21.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can play a card that gives their creature protection, but it is probably pointless if they are playing a card that destroys the blocking creature anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the combat phase there are 5 steps&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Begining of Combat &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During each of these steps each player gains priority and can cast spells/activate abilities if they want to. In your example the card giving protection must be cast at the latest in the Declare Blockers step, because the first thing that happens in the Combat Damage step is combat damage being assigned, which would deal lethal damage to the 4/4 and send it to the graveyard. However casting the card giving protection is pointless since with the 6/6 being destroyed there is nothing that will deal damage to it. Even though Protection prevents blocking once a creature is blocked removing the blocker or giving the attack protection does not stop the attacker from being blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-11-06T17:26:14.960" LastActivityDate="2015-11-06T17:26:14.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27477" CreationDate="2015-11-06T17:31:10.123" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;When people say &quot;Magic is not a game about reflexes&quot;, they mean that you never have to react quickly to anything in the game. Beginners have frequent misunderstandings of the rules such has &quot;Whoever announces that they're casting a spell first gets to have it resolve first.&quot;, which is incorrect because spells and abilities use the stack, and there is a turn-based priority system to ensure that only one player has the opportunity to take action at any one time. Similarly, people commonly believe some variation of &quot;If you don't respond within five seconds, the spell resolves unopposed&quot;, which is simply incorrect: you have as much time as you need to respond to anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/events/coverage/ptbfz/the-best-team-at-the-pro-tour-2015-10-16&quot;&gt;Brandon Burton&lt;/a&gt; has cerebral palsy. Brandon has competed at Worlds and the Pro Tour (two of the highest levels of competition in Magic). That goes to show that dexterity and reflexes are not a requirement to play competitively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T09:25:40.127" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T09:25:40.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27480" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27481" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:40:03.883" Score="3" ViewCount="7068" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Collapsed Room has the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You must attempt a Speed roll of 5+ to avoid falling. If you fail the roll, draw a basement tile and put it in play. You fall there and take 1 die of physical damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it permitted to voluntarily fail the roll if I &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to go to the basement and am willing to sacrifice the 1 die of physical damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, does the answer differ for forced movement? This came up for &lt;em&gt;Haunt 9: The Dance of Death&lt;/em&gt;. In that haunt, players must make a Sanity roll or do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;you must move toward the Ballroom by the shortest route through discovered rooms. You may perform other actions normally along the way if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our case, the Collapsed Room was in the way of the Ballroom, and we were unsure as to whether we could voluntarily fail that room roll in order to get farther away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So can I voluntarily fail the roll for the Collapsed Room?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T03:55:18.710" Title="Can I voluntarily fail the roll for the Collapsed Room?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27480" CreationDate="2015-11-06T18:56:23.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/faqs/hoth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Collapsed Room -- Could a monster or explorer intentionally choose to fall through the floor of the collapsed room to get to the basement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Yes. A hero would need to roll and take damage; a monster or traitor would not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your second question, I do not believe the rules give a clear answer to this. I believe it is logical to say yes, you can fall down to avoid the Ballroom. This is because the instructions are specifically referring to how you choose to move, and it says you may perform other actions along the way. Falling down the collapsed room counts as &quot;other actions&quot;, and it is not something that really falls within the question of where you are moving to. I believe that when it tells you where you must move to, it is referring to which direction you take each time you use movement to leave a room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that if the Collapsed Room has already been discovered, an explorer can choose to walk through it freely without needing to roll:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only the explorer who first discovers the Collapsed Room needs to make the Speed roll listed there. Thereafter, any explorer entering the room can either ignore the room ability or use it intentionally, in which case that explorer still takes the damage. Falling to the basement doesn’t count as moving a space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T03:38:29.630" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T03:38:29.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27480" CreationDate="2015-11-06T22:35:42.337" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, not in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You don't roll when entering a previously-discovered Collapsed Room. From page 6 of the rules,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only the explorer who first discovers the Collapsed Room needs&#xA;  to make the Speed roll listed there. Thereafter, any explorer&#xA;  entering the room can either ignore the room ability or use it&#xA;  intentionally, in which case that explorer still takes the damage.&#xA;  Falling to the basement doesn’t count as moving a space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, however, your character wouldn't choose to jump down. They do not want to get further away. They are compelled to reach the room as fast as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gendolkari's answer makes no sense. They say one can choose to fail the roll, but then follows up with the rule saying one doesn't even get a roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T03:55:18.710" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T03:55:18.710" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27484" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-06T23:52:46.143" Score="2" ViewCount="5757" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of all keywords, &lt;code&gt;fight&lt;/code&gt; is the most confusing to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whan creature X fights creature Y, do you only count plain power/toughness? How do you count enchantments, counters, static abilities of other creatures? Can you activate abilities? Can you cast instants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T00:09:28.587" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T00:09:28.587" Title="How exactly does &quot;fight&quot; work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27484" CreationDate="2015-11-07T00:01:21.897" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Fight keyword action is defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Fight&quot;&gt;rule 701.10&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10a&lt;/strong&gt; A spell or ability may instruct a creature to fight another creature or it may instruct two creatures to fight each other. &lt;strong&gt;Each of those creatures deals damage equal to its power to the other creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10b&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature instructed to fight is no longer on the battlefield or is no longer a creature, no damage is dealt. If a creature is an illegal target for a resolving spell or ability that instructs it to fight, no damage is dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10c&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature fights itself, it deals damage equal to its power to itself twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10d&lt;/strong&gt; The damage dealt when a creature fights isn’t combat damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bolded sentence is the part that describes what it actually does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Power and toughness are calculated like usual, and, like with every other effect in the game, you can't cast spells or activate abilities while it is resolving. There has never been a card that cares about or uses a creature's base power or toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Fight effect is a one-shot effect, which means that you will only see it on an activated or triggered ability. Both of those go on the stack, which means that you can respond to them with instants and abilities like anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T00:06:50.603" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T00:06:50.603" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27484" CreationDate="2015-11-07T00:01:24.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking a lot of questions here, most of which aren't really specific to fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a spell or ability resolves and says that two creatures fight, they each deal damage equal to their power to the other. That's all, nothing crazy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When something depends on the power of a creature, like fight does, you always look at the actual net power of that creature. If you have a creature with base power/toughness 1/1 with a +1/+1 counter on it, and an aura that grants it +2/+2, it's a 4/4, so it deals 4 damage. If you have a plain 4/4 with nothing else going on, it's also a 4/4, and deals 4 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since fight &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; cares about the power of the creature, the toughness doesn't matter until after you're done resolving the spell or ability. If at that point a creature has been dealt damage greater than or equal to its toughness, it dies. It doesn't matter what dealt the damage - in this case it was fighting another creature, but it could just as easily have been a burn spell. It dies either way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the bit about activating abilities and casting instants... that doesn't really make a whole lot of sense. You probably want to go have a look at how the stack works. There's only one spell or ability resolving at a time. If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pit%20Fight&quot;&gt;Pit Fight&lt;/a&gt; to make two creatures fight, that goes on the stack, then players can respond with instants or activated abilities, which resolve first, and then when Pit Fight finally resolves, the creatures fight, plain and simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, &amp;quot;fight&amp;quot; is an instruction you follow when resolving the spell or ability. It's not a little subgame with special rules and actions inside it, it's just a part of resolving a spell or ability that causes some damage to be dealt. When resolving a spell or ability, you can't cast spells or activate abilities, whether or not fight is involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T00:07:05.363" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T00:07:05.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27487" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-07T03:07:38.683" Score="6" ViewCount="1379" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game, my opponent declared his attacker with a (5/5) creature and I declared my blocker with a (2/3). I then played an Instant to make my (2/3) into a (5/3). Then my opponent used an Instant to sacrifice a creature and draw a card. He then claimed that my creature should die because his (5/5) went against my (5/3).&#xA;My question now is, shouldn't his creature have died and therefore not be able to sacrifice it anymore?&#xA;Or is it still possible for him to do AND take the combat damage AND sacrifice his creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14243" LastActivityDate="2024-01-08T21:15:08.643" Title="Sacrificing an attacking creature that should die" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27487" CreationDate="2015-11-07T03:17:06.927" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;He can either trade creatures, or he can sacrifice his creature, but not both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the declare blockers step, after declaring blockers but before the combat damage, you have a chance to cast spells and activate abilities. If at this point he sacrifices his creature, then it will no longer be around in the combat damage step and won't deal any combat damage to the creature blocking it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand he does nothing and lets combat damage happen, his 5/5 will have 5 damage marked on it and before he gets a chance to do anything, it will die. (Precisely, it will die when state-based actions are checked during the combat damage step just before players would get priority and be able to cast spells and activate abilities. By the time they get that chance, it's already dead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As doppelgreener pointed out, a long time ago combat damage actually did use the stack and could be responded to. Back then, this meant those two creatures could put 5 damage on the stack to be dealt to each other like any other ability, &lt;em&gt;and then&lt;/em&gt; before it was dealt one of them could be sacrificed, and the damage would still get dealt. That hasn't been true since 2009, but it's possible your opponent hasn't kept up with rules since then!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-07T05:56:49.723" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T05:56:49.723" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2015-11-07T06:59:22.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as dice go, use two dice for a 2/2 token. When they are horizontal, the token is untapped. Twist them both so they are vertical, and it's tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14244" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T06:59:22.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27491" CreationDate="2015-11-07T17:21:03.143" Score="20" ViewCount="4314" Body="&lt;p&gt;From all posts read on Dominion (ie. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5107/when-should-i-buy-copper-in-dominion&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;), I see a stress on money. I must say that I played only 14 times, &lt;a href=&quot;https://rankade.com/trepaste/ranking/dominion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;but I consistently lose&lt;/a&gt;: I try all the times to build a balanced deck , with lot of actions (especially those that give other actions), also attacks. I never focus too much in buying Silver or Gold, but maybe that's the problem. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's not buying Silver and Gold the biggest mistake in Dominion strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12893" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T10:28:05.377" Title="Is not buying money the worst strategy in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27490" CreationDate="2015-11-07T17:56:14.830" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know about the &lt;em&gt;biggest&lt;/em&gt; - you could buy curses instead - but yes, this is definitely a big mistake and one of the most common.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/681/how-can-i-beat-big-money-in-dominion?rq=1&quot;&gt;Buying &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; silver and gold (aka &quot;big money&quot;)&lt;/a&gt; is actually a reasonably strong strategy. It's not amazing, it's pretty easy to beat, but it'll tend to win over beginner players and it's definitely way better than buying basically only kingdom cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You say you build balanced decks, with a lot of actions. That's not balanced. Money is one of the things that needs to be balanced; you need a decent amount of it along with the actions you get. (You also mention lots of attacks. While those can serve a purpose, making it harder for your opponents to buy provinces doesn't help much if you've already made it &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; hard for yourself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might help to think a bit about the expected value of cards. Silver or gold in your hand is worth 2 or 3, clearly. An action that draws you three cards, in a deck with basically just copper and actions, is probably going to end up being worth only 1 or maybe 2 coin on average - you'll draw other actions and a little copper. In a deck with a ton of silver and a bit of gold it might be worth say 4 coin on average! And all that silver and gold you've bought is &lt;em&gt;reliably&lt;/em&gt; worth 2 and 3 coin on average.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing you can think about is what it'd take to get a province. Stuff your deck with silver and gold, and you'll get one with two gold and a silver, or one gold two silver and a copper; that's something that can happen fairly easily especially if you trash copper and estates. Stuff your deck with actions and you'll probably need a much more perfect combination. How often are you going to get two village-ish cards that give +1 card +2 actions, along with several actions that each give +2 coin?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, silver only costs 3 and gold only costs six. Most of the time, an action that reliably nets you two coin will cost more than 3, especially when you keep in mind you can't play unlimited actions unless you also invest coin and turns and cards buying a lot of actions that grant +actions. Same idea applies to gold. So not only is the silver and gold often worth more to you, but you'll be able to buy it earlier and more frequently than the kingdom cards that'd be worth the same amount. Sure, you'd get there eventually, but the other players who bought silver and gold are going to get the provinces before you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bottom line, yes, ignoring silver and gold is a huge mistake. Buy money - and only buy actions if you think they're &lt;em&gt;better&lt;/em&gt; than the money would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T18:03:30.033" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27490" CreationDate="2015-11-07T18:06:41.987" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The generic answer is &quot;depending on the kingdom&quot;. I will present to you both views on your question. A pro-money and an against-money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pro-money&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably a common newbie mistake in Dominion is that they buy a lot of terminal action cards, e.g., Woodcutter, Workshop, Smithy, without being able to play them. Therefore, these actions cards collide together and by not having any treasures with them, which do not require actions to be played, cannot get past $3-$4 per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You always need some money in the beginning, even in kingdoms which favor treasure-less strategies, to get started with. Some kingdoms may as well favor decks with a lot of treasures, for example the presence of the Throne Room. If you have Gardens on the table, or even Dukes (from Dominion: Intrigue), you can even benefit from Copper, as well!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against money&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're just playing the base game, you won't find many examples of kingdoms that favor treasure-less strategies. Such kingdoms usually have cheap engine components and treasures, especially Silver, are a liability. Other kingdoms may offer you Victory Points through cheap alt-VP kingdom cards, like Vineyard (from Dominion: Alchemy) or Victory Point chips (from Dominion: Prosperity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some examples to try with expansions. I will not tell you the exact strategy, you can either find it on your own or just read it online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try the &quot;Infestations&quot; recommended set from Dark Ages &amp;amp; Alchemy, with Rats and Vineyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try the &quot;Servants&quot; set from Alchemy &amp;amp; Intrigue, with Steward, Scrying Pool and Conspirator. Plus, some Vineyards to spice things up.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try together a Steward and some Minion(s) from Intrigue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-11-07T18:06:41.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27462" CreationDate="2015-11-08T07:16:14.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried: you can, but each difficulty level is to be considered one lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to be able to have a chance to win with your friend if they have never played the game and that you want to start easy, you have to put the water cursor below the first line, adding a new level of difficulty: &quot;extra-novice&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you intend to have more than 4 players regularly, may I suggest you buy another cooperative game that is suitable for 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/92120/atlantis-rising&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Atlantis Rising&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (2-6 players) takes some of the same principle of drowning land, without being exacly the same game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/37111/battlestar-galactica&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Battlestar Galactica&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (3-6 players) is a team vs team game, except you don't know in which team you are until the middle of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/15062/shadows-over-camelot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (3-7 players) allows each player to follow his own quest, but be sure to find the traitor and don't let him ruin your work!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/98778/hanabi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hanabi&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (2-5 players) asks every player to launch fireworks by playing cards in the right order (exactly like &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/943/ligretto&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ligretto&lt;/a&gt;) except you hold your cards backwards and everybody sees them except you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2023/co-operative-play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3319 co-operative games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (when I write this answer) listed on Board Game Geek!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:16:14.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27494" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8103" CreationDate="2015-11-08T07:30:53.820" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;When to Bid&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.euchreinfo.webs.com/Bidding.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.euchreinfo.webs.com/Bidding.pdf&lt;/a&gt; is a handy reference sheet for bidding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info can be found on the website, &quot;Euchre Info&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.euchreinfo.webs.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.euchreinfo.webs.com&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14249" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T07:30:53.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3802" CreationDate="2015-11-08T09:51:58.863" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;****EDITED****&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With Catan being partially a game of luck, using a recording system the same way you would with Go, might not yield usable data that you can learn from. Games like Go and Chess are 100% skill. Such that, if I played chess with Bobby Fischer, he'd beat me 100 games out of 100. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Setters of Catan, on the other hand, is a cooperative game and does have an elements of &quot;luck&quot;, much like you would find in poker. While it is true that skill will drastically increase your chances of winning, there are times that if the dice just aren't rolling in your favor, there's no amount of skill that will overcome your run of bad luck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, instead of recording each move for analysis, like you would with Go. Perhaps, like with poker, calculating the probability that a certain course of action will move you forward, might be a more effective approach. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastEditorUserId="6855" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T17:48:45.757" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T17:48:45.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27490" CreationDate="2015-11-08T10:47:10.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the card mix.  I remember a game where I could play the Band of Misfits as a Chapel and a Poor House (nice because I could keep my target hand secret until actually being able to play it).  And there was also a King's Court in play.  So I eventually got rid of everything except of one King's Court and a Band of Misfits that was then played as Poor House mostly (the King's Court being in play also implies that the highest property was the rather expensive Colony).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any money card in your hand reduced the value of a triple Poor House by 3.  I overstocked on Misfits in that game, though, and was lucky that my opponent did not just buy out the Poor Houses in time and thus stop my Misfits from being usable as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any rate: any strategy involving multiple Poor Houses is going to suffer from spurious money in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And cheap money is going to hold up your game later.  The Marauder is a rather strong card since it gets you good throwaway money (Spoils) while slowing down the other's play and not bogging you down in cheap money (particularly when Platinum is also in play) in the end game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with avoiding money too much is that you don't get your game into gears early on, and of course with grabbing money too much is that you may get bogged down in the end game with cheap money.  Of course it helps to refrain from adding money into your shopping cart when having spent most on other items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I knew a player who was fond of the Woodcutter since its additional buy allowed her to get an extra Copper with every purchase.  Uh, don't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14251" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T10:47:10.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27490" CreationDate="2015-11-08T15:15:03.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hardest thing to get balanced in a Dominion hand is the number of action cards to the number of actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you never gain an action card, you will end up with one action wasted on each turn because you had no action card. That is a little bit unbalanced, but it is very easy to build a deck which gives you much more unbalanced hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One possible strategy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you during the game gain only a single action card and it is one which does not give you any extra actions, then that will be slightly more balanced. You'll often have a wasted action, but every once in a while, you'll draw the action card and be able to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Taking that strategy further&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this only allow you to gain a single action card during a game. As soon as you have gained two such action cards, you can get hands where you have shifted the balance too far. You will sometimes have a hand with two action cards and only one action. If the action cards are some that draws extra cards such as two &lt;code&gt;Smithy&lt;/code&gt; cards, then the risk of this happening is even higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try to counterbalance this by buying the &lt;code&gt;Village&lt;/code&gt; from the original game or one of the variants from the later extensions. But you'll get more unbalanced hands as now you will often have a hand with a &lt;code&gt;Village&lt;/code&gt; and only a single other action card to play or none at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your deck overall is balanced in number of &lt;code&gt;+2 Actions&lt;/code&gt; cards to action cards with no extra actions, the individual hands will not be balanced. If you take this strategy you need to ensure that the action cards you do buy are valuable enough to justify the unbalance that they inevitably will cause.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Another possible strategy&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you only gain action cards which say &lt;code&gt;+1 Action&lt;/code&gt;, you will keep the slight imbalance between actions and action cards you would have with no action cards at all. This means you will always have the needed action to play any action card on hand, and you will always end your turn with one wasted action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy is likely going to beat the strategy of buying 0 or only 1 action card during a game. In particular if the choice is between buying a &lt;code&gt;+1 Action&lt;/code&gt; cards of cost 5 and buying a silver, the &lt;code&gt;+1 Action&lt;/code&gt; card is likely a better strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Beware of cost 3 and cost 4 cards with no extra actions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many action cards at cost 3 and 4 which will give you two coin and something else, but no extra action. The something else may look compelling enough to make you believe that this card is more valuable than a silver. But often that something else is not valuable enough to justify the risk of having the card on hand with no actions left. The &lt;code&gt;Chancellor&lt;/code&gt; is one example of a card I would avoid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Any strategy can be undermined by some combination of kingdom cards&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever strategic advice you read about Dominion, you should expect that some kingdom card exists, which will undermine that advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strategy of only buying &lt;code&gt;Silver&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Gold&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;Province&lt;/code&gt; can often beat beginners. But that strategy becomes a lot less efficient if the &lt;code&gt;Pirate Ship&lt;/code&gt; is in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8322" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T15:15:03.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27499" CreationDate="2015-11-08T15:16:14.447" Score="2" ViewCount="258" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a partnership has both a 4-4 and 5-4 holding on one deal, I could see why it would make sense to have the 4-4 holding be the trump suit. The 5-4 holding can take &quot;long&quot; tricks with the fourth and fifth cards (on the 5 side), while the only way to &quot;lengthen&quot; the trump holding is through ruffs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose that you have the 4-4 and 5-4 holdings in separate deals. And suppose that you have no other &quot;long&quot; (seven card or longer) suits in either deal, so that the eight card (4-4) holding is distributed 8-6-6-6 in the four suits, and the nine card (5-4) holding is distributed 9-6-6-5 in the four suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, wouldn't it be better to have the 5-4 holding with the extra trump than the 4-4 holding? Especially since the ninth card guarantees a ruffable imbalance, e. g. 5-3-3-2 opposite 4-3-3-3, whereas the eight card holding could be 4-3-3-3 opposite 4-3-3-3? Or is there something I am missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-11-08T20:40:12.403" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:58:01.100" Title="With which &quot;non-trump&quot; holdings is a 4-4 fit superior to a 5-4 fit?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27498" CreationDate="2015-11-08T15:59:28.000" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is sort of an odd question. The cards you get are the cards you get, and you should do the best you can with the cards you have. You don't get to decide whether you have a 4-4 fit or a 5-4 fit, so in a sense this information doesn't help you. But as a way to improve your hand evaluation, let's consider this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One answer comes from the law of total tricks, which basically says, if you add up the tricks your side can get when declaring in your best trump suit to the tricks your opponents can get when declaring in &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; best trumps suit, it'll add up to the number of trumps you have plus the number of trumps they have. Of course, this isn't actually a law (it's easy to construct counterexamples), but it's a good rule of thumb. In this case, you're comparing 8+7=15 to 9+8=17, so it seems likely that your 9-card trump fit will have more trick-taking potential for the same number of high card points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also look at this from the losing-trick-count point of view. If you move a spot in a 2- or 3-card suit into a suit that already has 4 cards, you're removing a loser from your hand (in losing trick count, you count the number of cards that will lose to an A, K, or Q not in your hand, so AKx, AKxx, and AKxxx all have one loser, while xxx has 3 and xx only 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even good old high-card-point evaluation methods typically give some sort of value to distribution -- either adding a point for the fifth card in a suit, or adding points for having doubletons instead of tripletons, singletons instead of doubletons, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is a lot of ways to say, your intuition is correct. All things being equal, in a pair of hands that only have one fitting suit, having more cards in that suit tends to increase the number of tricks you can take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T18:58:01.100" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T18:58:01.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6239" CreationDate="2015-11-08T19:38:32.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To play Thud, whether regular rules or Koom Valley rules, you need a 15x15 board, made round by lopping off the corners such that the straight edges are 5 long, and the diagonals are 6 long. You then need 32 &quot;dwarf&quot; pieces, 8 &quot;troll&quot; pieces and one central &quot;Rock&quot; piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board dimensions are critical, as is the number of pieces. Any other board size, any other number of pieces, will result in a giant advantage for one side or the other. The balance is all about the timing it takes for trolls to reach the dwarves and start splatting: it has to be &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; the same amount of time as it takes a skilled dwarf player to have the start of a block built, so they can start hitting trolls in return. And that means you need five squares clear between trolls and dwarfs at the start. Four squares, and it's a clear win for trolls. Six squares, and dwarfs wipe the board. Remove the rock in the middle, and it's a clear win for trolls. And so on. It's not like go where the board size can be changed within reason without affecting the core gameplay: &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; change to the board changes the balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be easier to just get cardboard and draw the board out, or to get a decent sized go board. It's certainly not immoral to play the game with stuff you made yourself, nor stuff you bought elsewhere and co-opted. Though I just checked and it looks like Bernard &quot;the cunning artificer&quot; Pearson's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.discworldemporium.com/ThudGame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Discworld Emporium&lt;/a&gt; of Wincanton (the only town in the world officially Twinned with Ankh Morpork) does still sell boards and pieces of great beauty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14259" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T15:25:40.140" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:25:40.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22667" CreationDate="2015-11-08T19:50:41.527" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The general consensus is that the game is remarkably well-balanced, but that your strategies develop as you do. It doesn't have to be perfectly balanced, since it's a game of two halves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Initially, when you are new to the game, the trolls just swamp the dwarves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you learn how to make blocks, and the dwarves swamp the trolls. This seems to be the stage you are at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you learn trollish aggression, and when and where to make the sacrifices as a troll to stop blocks building and to spread out the trolls, and all that's left is mopping up the dwarves that are left because there's no way they can make a block once you've got the trolls spread out... if you're fast enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you learn to make dwarvish feints to get the trolls to spread out in the wrong direction first, learn the triangle of death to kill them as they come in with minimal losses, and you're back to swamping the trolls... most of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you get the right pacing to strike out to prevent blocks building anywhere, you appreciate that the diagonals are often better paths to tackle because they are closer in terms of shoving, you learn to never, ever retreat, and the trolls once again have the edge... just.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further refinements on either side happen, but in the end, neither side has an overwhelming advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thudgame.com forums are sadly dead, and seem unlikely to be resurrected, but you can still find them on &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20081021162429/http://www.thudgame.com/node/183&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://web.archive.org/web/20081021162429/http://www.thudgame.com/node/183&lt;/a&gt; the search engine won't work there but the forums are fairly easily navigable. The strategy section has a wealth of good info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best advice, though, is to play lots of games against lots of people &lt;em&gt;much better than you&lt;/em&gt;, and see how they kick your ass with the trolls. You will quickly transition to the next cycle of &quot;how the heck can dwarves possibly ever win?&quot; :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14259" LastActivityDate="2015-11-08T19:50:41.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27505" CreationDate="2015-11-09T00:22:29.047" Score="8" ViewCount="3062" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend attacked with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Colossus%20of%20Akros&quot;&gt;Colossus of Akros&lt;/a&gt; (Monstrous 20/20 indestructible) and I blocked with my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xenagos%2C%20God%20of%20Revels&quot;&gt;Xenagos, God of Revels&lt;/a&gt; (6/5 indestructible). I believe that our creatures are safe since indestructible prevents them from dying by combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend though believes that the indestructible ability would cancel each other out and his Colossus would destroy my Xenagos. Are there any rules that explains what happens in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10110" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:45:28.463" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:45:28.463" Title="Are two Indestructible creatures safe from each other, or do they somehow cancel each other out and destroy each other?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27504" CreationDate="2015-11-09T00:27:23.760" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, nothing like your friend's idea happens. Indestructible simply means they can't be destroyed, period. They can be exiled, returned to their owner's hand, sacrificed, have their toughness reduced to zero, shuffled into their owner's library, or even turned into frogs, but if anything tries to destroy them, including lethal damage, it just doesn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren't destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no secret &quot;...unless...&quot; clause in the rules like your friend believes. The only way to actually &lt;em&gt;destroy&lt;/em&gt; an indestructible creature is to make it stop being indestructible; usually that means causing it to lose all its abilities, like if you &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;turn it into a frog&lt;/a&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T19:29:17.470" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T19:29:17.470" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27506" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-09T03:45:39.753" Score="1" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For every 3 bad luck symbols which a player has .... he must choose and discard one active (lying on top) card from their CV&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean he can discard a card, then consider the card underneath active, then discard that one? Or, does he need to discard only cards that were active before beginning the discard process (i.e. cards from different stacks)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T18:39:38.067" Title="When you get 2 sets of bad luck dice (6 total frowns), can you discard 2 cards from the same stack?" Tags="|cv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27117" CreationDate="2015-11-09T06:01:31.740" Score="-5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.1. A continuous effect modifies characteristics of objects, modifies control of objects, or affects players or the rules of the game, for a fixed or indefinite period.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3c Continuous effects that modify characteristics of permanents do so simultaneously with the permanent entering the battlefield. They don’t wait until the permanent is on the battlefield and then change it. Because such effects apply as the permanent enters the battlefield, they are applied before determining whether the permanent will cause an ability to trigger when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example: A permanent with the static ability “All white creatures get +1/+1” is on the battlefield. A creature spell that would normally create a 1/1 white creature instead creates a 2/2 white creature. The creature doesn’t enter the battlefield as 1/1 and then change to 2/2.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Humility&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; changes &amp;quot;the rules of the game&amp;quot;. It affects all creatures no matter where they are (In play, in your hand, graveyard). If Humility is in play, a creature in your hand has no abilities and is a 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if Humility is in play, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20One&quot;&gt;Endless One&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hangarback%20Walker&quot;&gt;Hangarback Walker&lt;/a&gt; for that matter) has no abilities. You can pay {0} and have a 1/1 creature. If Endless One is already in play when Humility hits the battlefield, Endless One keeps its +1/+1 counters and its base P/T becomes 1/1 instead of 0/0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14265" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T14:42:29.933" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T14:42:29.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24624" CreationDate="2015-11-09T11:23:41.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find an authoritative answer, but I believe that no one gets any Qi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Cemetery in the base game allows you to revive a taoist, which is represented by them having some amount of Qi. For play reasons, this amount is set at two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the Cemetery with White Moon allows you to revive a villager instead; but villagers don't have Qi, they are just either alive or dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the flavour of the action, when you bring back a taoist you are giving them life back (at a cost), but you don't benefit; so when you bring back a villager, why should you be gaining life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T11:23:41.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27117" CreationDate="2015-11-09T15:16:21.577" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Endless One's ability is not a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3c &lt;em&gt;Triggered abilities&lt;/em&gt; have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and include (and usually begin with) the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Endless One's ability is a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ” are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Endless One's ability is a replacement effect, it ignores continuous effects that are not its own for the purposes of determining how the effect would apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;614.12. [...] To determine which replacement effects apply and how they apply, check the characteristics of the permanent as it would exist on the battlefield, taking into account replacement effects that have already modified how it enters the battlefield (see rule 616.1), continuous effects generated by the resolution of spells or abilities that changed the permanent’s characteristics on the stack (see rule 400.7a), and continuous effects from the permanent’s own static abilities, but &lt;strong&gt;ignoring continuous effects from any other source&lt;/strong&gt; that would affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although Humility's continuous effect is ignored momentarily, it still applies &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; the permanent enters. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you pay {0}, then Endless One will enter as a 1/1. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you pay {5}, then Endless One will enter as a 6/6.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T15:16:21.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27512" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-09T19:50:20.663" Score="0" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two creatures and barrage of expendables on the battlefield. My opponent casts a spell with the effect: &quot;Each opponent sacrifices a creature&quot;&#xA;Can I choose to sacrifice creature 1, then before my opponent's spell resolves, sacrifice creature 1 as the cost for barrage of expendables, thus resulting in only having lost creature 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14272" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-11-09T19:52:42.980" LastActivityDate="2015-11-09T19:52:42.980" Title="Sacrifice Question" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-11-09T20:22:59.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27513" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-09T20:41:01.067" Score="6" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/132018/churchill&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Churchill&lt;/a&gt;, how does US/UK scoring work for the invasion of Japan?  We've been poring over the rules, coming to several different conclusions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all US/UK fronts invade Japan at once, how many points do the US/UK each get for the invasion:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or some other amount?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japan can be invaded by four different fronts: the USSR from the north, and the US/UK from the west, south, and east.  For this question, we can ignore the northern front.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBy87.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/NBy87.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;invasion of Japan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, anywhere from zero to three of these fronts could be occupying Japan.  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gmtgames.com/churchill/CHURCHILLRules-Final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (p 18):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Front scores points for the furthest space it has advanced toward, or into, an Axis country.  A player does not score points for spaces that the Front passed through, just the last space it advanced into, to include an Axis country.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and, regarding how many points players get if Germany/Japan surrender:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;8 [points] per Axis country where they have a Front (all US and UK Fronts give 8 points to both the US and the UK)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's say all three fronts have made it into Japan (since we're ignoring the northern front).  How many points is that worth for the US/UK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;24 points, because (regarding surrendered Axis countries) &quot;&lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; US and UK Fronts &lt;strong&gt;give 8 points&lt;/strong&gt; to both the US and the UK&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 points, because players receive &quot;8 VP per Axis country &lt;strong&gt;where they have a Front&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24 points seems unlikely, because that's an &lt;em&gt;enormous&lt;/em&gt; number of points to get, in a game where the US/UK get only 8 points for conquering Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 points seems unlikely, because that would mean the US &lt;em&gt;loses&lt;/em&gt; two points for invading past Kyushu and Okinawa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the scoring actually work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T04:43:57.673" LastActivityDate="2019-07-12T12:02:20.290" Title="How does US/UK scoring work for the invasion of Japan?" Tags="|churchill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27516" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27517" CreationDate="2015-11-10T01:07:38.037" Score="2" ViewCount="306" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to figure out Terra Mystica by myself. One thing I'm having trouble with is the &lt;em&gt;spades&lt;/em&gt; used for terraforming. The rules seem very clear that these need to be used immediately — they can't be saved for future actions. (And that's backed up by the simple fact that there's no tokens or other representation.) But, there are number of ways you can earn spades during actions other than &lt;em&gt;Transform and Build&lt;/em&gt; — and even outside of actions, as in the Cult of Earth spade bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is terraforming / terrain transformation just a thing you can do whenever you get spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T17:00:14.147" Title="Can I terraform outside of my turn, or during my turn in some other action?" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27516" CreationDate="2015-11-10T02:02:15.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you ever get a spade you must use it immediately, or forfeit it. The only way to get a spade outside of taking an action on your turn though is the end-of-round cult bonuses that give them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may not save Spades for future Actions. Spades need to be&#xA;  used immediately. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the spades that you get for the cult bonuses must be used by themselves; you cannot also spend workers to terraform more, nor can you build a Dwelling at that time. Those are things you can do in addition to getting spades when you choose the terraform and build action or a power action that gives you spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T17:00:14.147" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T17:00:14.147" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27519" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-10T07:05:28.483" Score="6" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have 2 green creatures out and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Regal%20Force&quot;&gt;Regal Force&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent responds by overloading &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cyclonic%20Rift&quot;&gt;Cyclonic Rift&lt;/a&gt;. Do I draw 3, 1, or 0 cards, and does Regal Force get bounced?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14276" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T07:13:25.117" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T09:01:57.373" Title="Regal force and cyclonic rift" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27519" CreationDate="2015-11-10T07:24:20.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what exactly the opponent is responding to. If they cast Cyclonic Rift in response to Regal Force the spell, then Regal Force ends up on the battlefield and you draw 1 card. However, if they respond to Regal Force's triggered ability, then Regal Force instead ends up in your hand and you draw no cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Responding to the spell&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they respond to the spell, then the sequence of actions plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Regal Force and pass priority. At this point, Regal Force is on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They cast Cyclonic Rift. At this point, Regal Force is on the stack, and Cyclonic Rift is on top of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclonic Rift resolves, returning your two creatures on the battlefield to your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force resolves and it enters the battlefield. Its ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force's ability resolves, and you draw 1 card for the 1 creature you control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Responding to the triggered ability&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they respond to the triggered ability, the sequence of actions instead plays out like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Regal Force.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent declines to respond, and Regal Force resolves. It enters the battlefield, and its ability triggers. At this point, the triggered ability is on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They cast Cyclonic Rift. At this point, Regal Force's triggered ability is on the stack, and Cyclonic Rift is on top of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclonic Rift resolves, returning your three creatures on the battlefield to your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force's ability resolves, and you draw no cards because you control no creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T07:24:20.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27519" CreationDate="2015-11-10T07:27:03.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the opponent responds to you casting Regal Force, the following would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force is cast and goes on stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclonic Rift is cast and goes on stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cyclonic Rift resolves, two green creatures return to your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force comes into play and triggers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw one card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent casts Rift after after Regal Force comes into play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force is cast and goes on stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regal Force resolves, comes into play and triggers, trigger goes on stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent casts Rift, it goes on stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rift resolves, 2 creatures and Force return to your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger resolves, you control no creatures and draw zero cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T07:27:03.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27490" CreationDate="2015-11-10T10:28:05.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, if you play the First Game for the base set with the recommended set up, a winning strategy involves &lt;em&gt;buying&lt;/em&gt; very little money. However, it does involve using Mine and Remodel to turn your starting copper and estates into silver/gold/village/market.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good article about it here &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/07/30/building-the-first-game-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/07/30/building-the-first-game-engine/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You pretty much always want cards which get you money. Once you have silver and gold in your deck, cards which draw cards get a lot better. This doesn't mean you have to &lt;em&gt;buy&lt;/em&gt; the money though, if a Mine is available, then upgrading your starting copper to silver/gold while buying smithy and village can be the best strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key thing for a mostly buying kingdom card strategy to work, is getting enough +actions, +cards, and having a decent amount of total money in your deck. You'll be drawing your entire deck most turns, so you want to be able to buy 2 provinces each time that happens, otherwise you'd be better off just playing money and buying 1 province!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2933" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T10:28:05.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27524" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27533" CreationDate="2015-11-10T10:35:46.003" Score="8" ViewCount="864" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I trigger &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emeria%20Shepherd&quot;&gt;Emeria Shepherd&lt;/a&gt; ability of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plains&quot;&gt;Plains&lt;/a&gt;, may I choose to place the card in my hand instead of into the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12512" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T14:10:17.883" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T20:01:32.193" Title="Returning card to hand off Emeria Shephard from Plains trigger" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27524" CreationDate="2015-11-10T10:50:30.880" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emeria%20Shepherd&quot;&gt;Emeria Shepherd&lt;/a&gt; triggers from Plains entering the battlefield, you target a nonland permanent in you graveyard to return it to your hand. Since it is a Plains, you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; choose to return the permanent to the battlefield instead, but you don't have to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T10:50:30.880" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27526" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27534" CreationDate="2015-11-10T13:10:39.023" Score="9" ViewCount="31719" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player has 5 settlement tokens in hand at the beginning of the game. After placing the 5th settlement, considering I have not built a single city, can I build a 6th settlement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10142" LastEditorUserId="10142" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T10:45:59.040" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T10:45:59.040" Title="Can I build a settlement if I don't have the building piece for it?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27526" CreationDate="2015-11-10T13:14:52.857" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Supplies are finite. If you need more settlements, you have to upgrade some to cities. As soon as you upgrade one settlement to a city, the settlement returns to your supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same goes for roads and cities, they too run out. As such, the longest possible road has length 15 (or 30 if you include ships from the Seafarers expansion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T05:44:37.753" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T05:44:37.753" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27524" CreationDate="2015-11-10T14:43:49.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with Vilmar's answer. I believe the &quot;may&quot; is not linked to the &quot;instead&quot;. The &quot;may&quot; in this case means &quot;return it to the battlefield&quot; or don't return it at all. But I do think it's a bit an ambiguous wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, you may&#xA;  return target nonland permanent card from your graveyard to your hand.&#xA;  If that land is a Plains, you may return that nonland permanent card&#xA;  to the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To look at the wording. Usually when the word instead is used, it is as if you actually replace the words of a previously mentioned phrase to other words so this is how I see it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, you may&#xA;  return target nonland permanent card from your graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that land is a Plains replace &quot;to your hand&quot; with &quot;to the battlefield&quot; in the above phrase. So it becomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, you may&#xA;  return target nonland permanent card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="5909" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T15:18:50.800" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:18:50.800" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20593" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:17:15.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can and, if you attack, you MUST attack the player. In Magic, you always (with exceptions in planeswalkers and multiplayer games) attack the player. It is the defensive player who CHOOSE if he will block or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say the opponent has 5 lives. It is your attack phase and you attack (in a 1vs1 game, you don't even choose who to attack, you just Attack the opponent player). He can decide to block your creature with his 1/1 flier (losing it and getting 3 damages himself) or just let the damage go through, getting the 4 damages and keeping his creature alive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the actual state of the game the trample MATTERS, because he will die because of the 3 trample damage points. Without trample, he could just block with the flier and stay alive in 2 lives. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="14281" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T21:59:50.243" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T21:59:50.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27526" CreationDate="2015-11-10T15:49:20.137" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, unless you have lost a settlement. Check the contents list of the game to see if you have every settlement pawn for that color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14282" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T15:49:20.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27532" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:11:34.383" Score="5" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of all the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Mask&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mask monsters&lt;/a&gt; in Arkham Horror, there are 5 in the base game, 1 in Dunwich Horror, 2 in Kingsport Horror, and 2 in Insmouth Horror. If Nyarlathotep is the Ancient One, do I add all Mask monsters from the base game and any expansions I am playing to the cup? Or do I cap them at a certain number (say, pick 5 random Mask monsters)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T16:26:28.680" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T16:27:28.143" Title="Do I add all Mask monsters from the base game and expansions when Nyarlathotep is the Ancient One?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27531" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:27:28.143" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You use them all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest the rules get to directly saying this is things like this from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/DH_rules_english.pdf&quot;&gt;Dunwich Horror rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As with the “Mask” monster markers from Arkham Horror, do not place the Spawn monsters in the monster cup (unless the Ancient One sheet instructs otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That strongly suggests that you're expected to use them along with the original ones if the Ancient One says to. The Mask monsters are also referenced a few other times in the rules, and similarly in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/Innsmouth%20Horror/ah_ih_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;Innsmouth Horror rules&lt;/a&gt;, every time just implying they're treated the same as the original ones. If they wanted you to randomly select 5, I think they'd have to spell that out, the way they very clearly did with Ally selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this makes sense. The idea of having 5 masks in the base game was to give them a certain probability of being drawn. The expansions all add additional monsters to the cup, and if they didn't also add Masks then the odds of drawing a Mask would go down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T16:27:28.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27524" CreationDate="2015-11-10T16:53:46.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may choose to put the card into your hand, or onto the battlefield, or leave it in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Landfall — Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, you may return target nonland permanent card from your graveyard to your hand. If that land is a Plains, you may return that nonland permanent card to the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Magic terminology, here is how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emeria%20Shepherd&quot;&gt;Emeria Shepherd&lt;/a&gt;'s ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Keyword ability] - Whenever [trigger event], [optional one-shot effect]. If [condition], [optional self-replacement effect].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that you have the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose to apply the one-shot effect. Choose to apply the replacement effect. The card goes to the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose to apply the one-shot effect. Choose not to apply the replacement effect. The card goes to your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose not to apply the one-shot effect. The card remains in the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].” [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;610.1. A one-shot effect does something just once and doesn’t have a duration. Examples include dealing damage, destroying a permanent, putting a token onto the battlefield, and moving an object from one zone to another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1a Effects that use the word “instead” are replacement effects. Most replacement effects use the word “instead” to indicate what events will be replaced with other events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.5. Some triggered abilities’ effects are optional (they contain “may,” as in “At the beginning of your upkeep, you may draw a card”). These abilities go on the stack when they trigger, regardless of whether their controller intends to exercise the ability’s option or not. The choice is made when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are differing interpretations on whether the &amp;quot;may&amp;quot; makes the application of the replacement effect optional, or only the action of returning the card to the battlefield. It's a purely linguistic argument, so I won't get into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will, however, quote &lt;a href=&quot;http://tabakrules.tumblr.com/post/131309594414/if-i-control-emeria-shepherd-and-play-a-plains&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Matt Tabak's ruling on this particular case&lt;/a&gt; that supports the interpretation taken by this answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The replacement is optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T20:01:32.193" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T20:01:32.193" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27526" CreationDate="2015-11-10T19:39:45.333" Score="32" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;em&gt;super&lt;/em&gt; clear in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &lt;em&gt;Build&lt;/em&gt; in the Game Rules section: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You cannot build more pieces than what is available in your&#xA;  pool—a maximum of 5 settlements, 4 cities, and 15 roads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, later, under &lt;em&gt;Build (Building)&lt;/em&gt; in the Almanac:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can build as many items and buy as many cards as&#xA;  you desire—as long as you have enough resources to “pay”&#xA;  for them &lt;strong&gt;and they are still available in the supply&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;[...]&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;  Each player has a supply of 15 roads, 5 settlements, and 4&#xA;  cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis added.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and again later, under &lt;em&gt;Settlements&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: If you have built all 5 of your settlements, you must&#xA;  upgrade 1 of your settlements to a city before you can build&#xA;  another settlement. You will then have the settlement in your&#xA;  supply, so you can build another settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T19:39:45.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27537" CreationDate="2015-11-10T20:49:46.203" Score="6" ViewCount="10664" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NOTE: This question was asked before the commander rules update that removed the replacement effect. Discarded or killed commanders now go to graveyard first as normal then move to the command zone from the graveyard as a state based action&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a rule in commander that lets you put your commander in the command zone instead of other zones:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a Commander would be put into a library, hand, graveyard or exile from anywhere, its owner may choose to move it to the command zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are additional clarifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a replacement effect. It applies last and may apply multiple times to an event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature never goes to the original destination zone and will not trigger abilities that trigger based on going there (e.g. &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot; triggers).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if I have to discard my hand, and my commander is in it, and I choose to put him in the command zone, does that trigger &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=liliana%27s%20caress&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Liliana's Caress&lt;/a&gt; or similar cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9758" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2023-07-10T14:46:17.957" LastActivityDate="2023-07-10T14:46:17.957" Title="Does discarding your commander to the command zone trigger discard effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27535" CreationDate="2015-11-10T21:27:51.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it does count as being discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Keyword_action&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Keyword Action&lt;/a&gt; that means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.7a&lt;/strong&gt; To discard a card, move it from its owner’s hand to that player’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Commander replacement effect changes this to be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To discard a card, move it from its owner’s hand to that player’s command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard is a keyword action that tells you to move a card from one zone to another like destroy, sacrifice, or exile. The action doesn't care if parts of it were replaced with other actions, it still happened. Similarly if you have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon%20Appeasement&quot;&gt;Dragon Appeasement&lt;/a&gt; and sacrifice your commander you will get to draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also since the actually being put into the graveyard is being replaced discarding your commander and putting it in the command zone will not trigger any &amp;quot;when this card enters the graveyard from anywhere&amp;quot; triggers like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ulamog%2C%20the%20Infinite%20Gyre&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre&lt;/a&gt;, similar to how a sacrificed commander will not trigger any &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot; triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt; sets up a similar type of replacement effect, it exiles cards instead of putting them in the graveyard, and it has this ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent discards a card while you control Leyline of the Void, abilities that function when that card is discarded (such as Liliana's Caress's ability, or a madness ability of the discarded card) still work, even though that card never reaches that player's graveyard. In addition, spells or abilities that check the characteristics of the discarded card (such as Chandra Ablaze's first ability) can find that card in exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T21:57:01.377" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T21:57:01.377" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9414" CreationDate="2015-11-10T21:38:34.607" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can vary between formats, but in some general way, it goes like this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For constructed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing an aggro deck, you will need 1 drops. Usually a lot of them, mostly because your main plan is to win in turn 4 (or 5 if things go wrong), so your 1 drops will be relevant half of the match (turns 1 and 2 because you will prefer to have 3 creatures 2 turn instead 1 creature, so they would need 3 1-mana responses to kill them or a sweeper). Furthermore, it is possible you never draw your 4rd land, so your 1-mana will be relevant the whole match by enabling you to play 2 spells by turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing control, you mostly will not play 1 drops. Maybe some shock or equivalent to kill early creatures, of course, some cards are good enough for control decks but remember your main plan is to win via card advantage (i.e. you have 5 cards in your hand with 2 permanents in battle and they have nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play combo, well, every combo deck is different, so it depends of the parts of the combo. Anyway, you probably will want some 1-mana draw/cycling cards so you can find the parts faster. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For limited:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You probably should not go aggro because you will cant get enough good 1-drops, except in rare cases. Combo is an even rarer option. Limited is more about bombs because the synergy of a decks is low (i.e. you are drafting a goblin deck but you could not get 4 of each goblin lord), so individual power will make the difference. As a regular rule, I don't play 1 mana spells unless they can be scaled (by pumping, in example) or they are really good in a long game (like Land Tax). Of course, if you are playing good and many bombs, you could take some 1-mana draw/cycling cards to, you know, draw them more often. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastEditorUserId="14281" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T21:57:31.797" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T21:57:31.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27540" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27541" CreationDate="2015-11-10T21:55:37.867" Score="2" ViewCount="2604" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played One Night Ultimate Werewolf last night and the following happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Paranormal Investigator looked at a Werewolf card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Troublemaker swapped the Paranormal Investigator with the Insomniac.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the round a Werewolf was lynched.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was some confusion as to who was on Team Werewolf and who was on Team Villager. The rules for the Paranormal Investigator say &quot;&lt;strong&gt;if you look at a Werewolf or a Tanner you become a Werewolf or a Tanner&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. We weren't clear if &quot;&lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; meant &lt;em&gt;the player&lt;/em&gt; becomes a Werewolf or &lt;em&gt;the Paranormal Investigator&lt;/em&gt; becomes a Werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-11-10T23:03:17.283" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T23:03:17.283" Title="What happens when The Paranormal Investigator discovers a Werewolf?" Tags="|one-night-werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27541" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27540" CreationDate="2015-11-10T23:00:32.497" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Allegiance moves with the card, so it's always the person &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the PI card who will be a Werewolf. This isn't really spelled out with the PI card, but it follows the same process as the Doppelganger from the base game of ONUW (the PI being from the Daybreak expansion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player receives the Doppelganger card during the night, she is the role the Doppleganger originally viewed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-11-10T23:00:32.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27542" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-11T03:33:18.740" Score="5" ViewCount="1004" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of chess tactics trainers online, to improve your chess skills, but I cannot find a single one for go. Is studying tactics useless for go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14286" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T14:07:14.773" LastActivityDate="2017-11-05T22:26:28.370" Title="Is studying tactics for Go useless?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27542" CreationDate="2015-11-11T06:29:40.170" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the contrary, studying tactics for go is essential. Books or online resources on &lt;em&gt;Joseki&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Tesuji&lt;/em&gt;,  and &lt;em&gt;Life and Death&lt;/em&gt; situations are good places to start, followed by general opening strategy as you gain experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing games on 13x13 boards as well as the standard 19x19 will assist you in gaining experience in the balance between influence to the centre and territory along  the sides and corners.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, programming go is considerably more complex than programming chess, leading to fewer good trainers available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T06:29:40.170" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27519" CreationDate="2015-11-11T09:01:57.373" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're question is a little bit unclear. If he responds to you playing the regal force by bouncing everything then the force will come into play, it's ability will  trigger and seeing as the regal force is a green creature  you will draw one card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he on the other hand lets the regal force resolve and respond to the trigger by bouncing all your critters then unless you can flash in a green creature before the ability resolves the ability will see zero green creatures and you will also draw zero cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T09:01:57.373" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27269" CreationDate="2015-11-11T09:06:53.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thats not true. You can play the game even after you finish the legacy version.  Simply take out all the stickers that got put on during legacy play. They r really easy to take off.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14288" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T09:06:53.593" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14598" CreationDate="2015-11-11T10:22:56.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Introduction&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it comes to checkers, four basic families of checkers are recognized. The fifth one combines two families. Examples of the families and movement and capturing are included&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turkish (Turkish, Greek, etc) [&lt;em&gt;Orthogonal and sideways&lt;/em&gt;] [&lt;em&gt;No backcapturing&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;International (Interational, Brazillian, Russian, Pool, etc.) [&lt;em&gt;Diagonal&lt;/em&gt;] [&lt;em&gt;Backcapturing&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spanish (Spanish, Argentinian, Czech, etc.) [&lt;em&gt;Diagonal&lt;/em&gt;] [&lt;em&gt;No backcapturing&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;American/British and Italian [&lt;em&gt;Diagonal&lt;/em&gt;] [*No backcapturing]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;International+Turkish (Frisian, Armenian, etc.) [&lt;em&gt;Diagonal and orthogonal&lt;/em&gt;] &#xA;[&lt;em&gt;Backcapturing allowed for Frisian&lt;/em&gt;] [&lt;em&gt;No backcapturing for Armenian, the basic variant&lt;/em&gt;]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the checkers variant you have just referred to (International), the orthogonal directions in movement or capturing are not used, therefore, only the diagonal directions for movement and capturing are included. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Now let's go back to your questions again&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Your Q:-[on our copy of the game say a king can take in any direction even if there are empty spaces between the king and the piece it will take.]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer: - Yes, he can&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Explanation&lt;/strong&gt; :-In all of these checkers families, the king can take in any direction and there must be space between it and the piece. From that space, it can choose to go further in the capturing process if in front of it is a new victim to be captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your Q: - [Also, can a king take a piece then change direction and take another one?]&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer: - Yes he can change any direction when he captures&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Elaboration&lt;/strong&gt; :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Family (1) Turkish, a king can change the direction when he captures orthogonally for example N to S or sideways E to W. Something to bear in mind is that within a multicapture, turning 180 degrees between two captures is not allowed&#xA;Note: - The flying king can choose to slide  to any empty area after the captured piece except in Greek checkers where the king is subject to king Halt , that is it must stop directly after the captured pieces&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Family (2)International , a king can change the direction when he captures diagonally for example SE to NE or NW or for example from NE to SE or SW&#xA;Note :- The flying king can choose to slide to any empty area after the captured piece&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Family (3) Spanish, a king can change the direction when he captures diagonally for example SE to NE or NW or for example from NE to SE or SW.&#xA;Note:- In Argentinian or Thai, the flying king is subject to king halt, that is it must stop directly after the captured pieces. Note that in Thai, a king could immediately reverse direction in a capture&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Family (4) American, a king can change the direction when he captures diagonally for example SE to NE or NW or for example from NE to SE or SW.&#xA;Note:- In American or Italian checkers, the king isn’t of the type flying king. It is a short-range king where it directly stops after the captured piece. It can’t slide to any empty area on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Family (5) Inter+Turk, it depends on the checkers variant in terms of movement. For example, in Armenian, men move like Turkish with an additional privilege, diagonal movement. &#xA;In Frisian checkers, men move diagonally in 2 directions(NE,NW) but capture in 8 directions, 4 diagonally (NE,NW,SE,SW) and two orthogonal (S,N) and two sideways (E W). The Frisian king moves in 4 directions and captures in 8 directions as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Also, the concept of quantity is very important in checkers.&lt;/strong&gt; Some checkers variants allow maximum capture of pieces as in Turkish or International.&#xA;Others dont allow that. They allow you to capture any sequence as long as all possible captures are made as in American or Pool. In both cases Kings abide these rules.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Moreover, whether pieces are removed immediately (during the capture) or after the whole move is very crucial in capturing.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14278" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T10:43:26.163" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T10:43:26.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27542" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:26:56.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to study Go tactics is to do lots of problems.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gogrinder.com&quot;&gt;GoGrinder&lt;/a&gt; is a really good way to practice if you're using a computer or an Android phone.  I haven't kept the iPhone version up to date, so I can't really recommend that anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T11:26:56.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27548" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:32:37.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lord of the Rings is a co-operative game where the object is to destroy the Ring while surviving the corrupting influence of Sauron. Each player plays one of the Hobbits in the fellowship, each of which has a unique power. The game is played on a number of boards: the Master board indicates both the physical progress of the fellowship across Middle Earth and the corrupting influence of Sauron on the hobbits, and a number of scenario boards which detail the events and adventures of particular locations. Progression across the boards is determined by playing cards (many of which represent the characters and items of Middle Earth), and the effects of corruption are represented by a special die. The game is lost if the ring-bearer is overcome by Sauron, or won if the ring is destroyed by throwing it into the volcanic fires of Mount Doom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is an &lt;a href=&quot;http://freespace.virgin.net/chris.lawson/rk/lotr/faq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ here&lt;/a&gt; with expanded rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="13995" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T21:27:34.673" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T21:27:34.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27549" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:32:37.277" Score="0" Body="This tag is for the 2000 board game by Reiner Knizia. Lord of the Rings is a co-operative game where the object is to destroy the Ring while surviving the corrupting influence of Sauron." OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-11-11T16:02:04.513" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T16:02:04.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27455" CreationDate="2015-11-11T11:53:26.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a very general question and really depends on who you're playing with (and how they're feeling at the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; new board game with a group of new players can be a daunting task, and a lot of players are reluctant to listen to a rules explanation for an hour before you start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nobody knows the rules then, unless the game is simple, it's likely (as you experienced) that the group will give up. Unless you have enough rulebooks for everybody, or a really interested group, having one person read the rules in front of everyone is a bad idea. As you mentioned, a better idea is to have someone take charge, and read &lt;em&gt;enough&lt;/em&gt; of the rules in advance that they'll be able to set up and guide the learning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's fine for that player to follow along with the rulebook. A new player is a good facilitator, especially if everyone understands that they're still learning too. This helps avoid blame where you didn't give them all the options or explain all the rules in advance (and if you did they'd have stopped listening or given up!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Set up the basic parts of the game and give a brief explanation of what the board means and how the game flows. Then you can go through phases in a bit more detail. Try to mention the various options without necessarily explaining the details (again, this helps avoid the &quot;you didn't tell me that&quot; issue).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then finish setting up, getting the players to help out (e.g. &quot;can you sort the cards into coloured decks, can you give each player a set of tokens, please?&quot;). This helps everyone get a sense of the different parts used in the game and the names of those parts, which helps understand the rules as you go on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, start playing the game, stepping through the options and details of what's going on. After a couple of rounds you can ask everyone if they understand, and offer the option of a restart. In my experience, most people will be fine to carry on unless they've accidentally devastated their own position, and resetting shouldn't be too difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important part is for the group to accept that mistakes will be made. If you realise you were playing the game wrong, let people know about it and move on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To reiterate the important points:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a player who's familiar enough with the rules to set up and help others understand the game. If nobody's played, someone should spend a half hour or so in advance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make sure everyone knows that it's a learning game, and that it'll be a bit of a muddle the first 1 or 2 plays.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Be ready to allow people to undo recent mistakes based on rules misunderstandings, or to stick with/change incorrect rules as you play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus on getting everyone to understand &lt;em&gt;what's&lt;/em&gt; going on rather than just picking easy options. Encourage the whole table to share good strategic advice with everyone, even their opponents, so that players can focus on strategy in later games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T11:53:26.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="19030" CreationDate="2015-11-11T16:44:55.890" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would you keep a hand with 3 banners and no lands? Would you keep a hand with  2 banners? what about 1 land, 2 banners? well, you should not, so the answer is NO, you can't fill lands slots with banners. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the banners can be sac if you are mana flooded, eliminating the problem of get them in addition to lands. You can play 2 or even 3 of them if you play bombs in 5-6 manas, because the important thing here is, as a comment says, they are accelerators too, so it is very likely you will play your 5 mana bomb in 4 turn, even if it is a 3 color or it is in your splash color. Eventually you will have more mana than your more expensive card, so you will start to burn your banners, getting more relevant cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To my taste (I do very well in sealed), 17 lands and 2/3 banners maximizing your bombs. (In KTK you could even play 2 main colors and 2 splashes if you get enough good lands and banners, so you can put in almost every bomb you get). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T16:44:55.890" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27506" CreationDate="2015-11-11T18:39:38.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this game in French.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Si un joueur possède 3 symboles Malchance sur un tirage de dés et/ou avec ses jetons, il doit immédiatement se défausser d'une de ses cartes CV actives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would translate as (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player has 3 bad luck symbols on his dice and/or tokens he must &lt;strong&gt;immediately&lt;/strong&gt; discard one of his active CV cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you get your 6 bad luck symbols during the same turn but not on the same roll, I would say that you discard a card when you roll your third bad luck symbol and then a second one (from the same column if you wish) when you roll your sixth one. Assuming you get the 6 bad luck symbols at the same time (now that's real bad luck) I would appply the same rule and allow discarding twice from the same column...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T18:39:38.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27317" CreationDate="2015-11-11T20:45:25.600" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state: If that card is an item, weapon, armor, accessory, scroll or trick, the player may either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put it into the searching mouse's pack for later use, or &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;immediately discard it for 1 cheese.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Rest Spot is not any of the types listed, I don't think you can discard it for cheese.  And &quot;Play immediately&quot; is pretty clear about not holding on to it for later.  So I think you just discard it and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14296" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T20:45:25.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27554" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27566" CreationDate="2015-11-11T20:52:38.993" Score="4" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accessory cards do not show a usage slot (head, body, paws).  Does that mean there is no limit to how many a single mouse can equip?  Or are they limited to one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14296" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:11:09.557" Title="How many accessories can a mouse equip in Mice and Mystics" Tags="|mice-and-mystics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27555" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27556" CreationDate="2015-11-11T22:31:07.110" Score="1" ViewCount="589" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that each turn has three parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player selects a card and plays it face down simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player reveals what they plan to do with their card (build it, scrap it for cash, build their wonder).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After resolving any payments, players hand their deck to the person on the left/right. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - how is this second phase resolved? Do players do it one by one? What prevents a player from changing their mind about the card action? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T10:55:12.337" Title="How is the card action phase resolved in 7 Wonders?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27555" CreationDate="2015-11-11T23:19:05.953" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rulebook this phase is resolved simultaneously:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once every player has selected his or her card, they perform their action&#xA;  simultaneously. Three actions are possible with the chosen card :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;a. Build the structure&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;b. Build a stage of their Wonder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;c. Discard the card to gain 3 coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, all players announce their action, build/wonder/discard, &lt;strong&gt;at the same time&lt;/strong&gt;. It's out of the spirit of the game to see what other players are doing and then change your mind. For example, you might have two red cards at the end of Age III and you'd really like to know if your neighbor is going to build one, so that you can discard yours for money or not. You have to decide before phase #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When most players are newbies, it's a commonplace to resolve the cards one at a time, so that they can follow, but you should normally resolve the actions simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, it's also illegal to decide which neighbor to pay after resolving the actions. You're supposed to decide &lt;strong&gt;beforehand who to pay&lt;/strong&gt;; for example, you cannot decide to pay Olympia, see that he just built the Arena, taking $9, and then decide to pay your other neighbor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-11-11T23:19:05.953" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5310" CreationDate="2015-11-12T00:01:28.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two sides are not designed to be balanced. On 6 out of 7 wonders in the base game, side A has been in fact created to ease new players in the game, by providing a common pattern among them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Victory Points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Variable power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Victory Points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side B is almost always strictly better than side A. Here's a detailed approach, from my point of view.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alexandria&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably the most versatile wonder in the base game, you can seldom get locked out of resources with this one. Side B gives you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wild raw material in the first stage, which is extremely important to have in the early game. When constructing stage #2 of side A it's usually too late to take full advantage of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gives you a wild advanced material, which is usually welcome, especially in 4-player games, where you can easily get locked out of one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Victory Points less, in exchange for aforementioned infrastructure. Is it worth it? I'd say yes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, side A is really weak, as you need double Glass for the final stage. There is no card or other Wonder stage in the base game that needs a double glass and your neighbors, if playing smart, will refuse to take one for you. So, unless you come across a Forum in Age II, you're forced to &lt;em&gt;lose&lt;/em&gt; an action to take a second Glass, so that you can take 7 Points, making it 3.5 points per move in the late game, which is very suboptimal. Ephesos and Halikarnassós suffer from a similar problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Babylon&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, the weakest Wonder in the base game, from my point of view, and side A makes things worse as it forces you to get science cards, by placing the wildcard science symbol in the middle. Side B gives you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to play the last card of each Age, so up to 3 more cards than other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The wildcard symbol is placed at the last stage, so you may opt out from science completely.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Victory points less, in exchange.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it? Well, both are weak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ephesos&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing to discuss here. Side B also gives you 10 points, more money, 12 coins in total instead of 9, and the money is distributed over the 3 stages, making Ephesos more versatile. Furthermore, side A suffers from Alexandria's side A problem, by requiring a double Paper for the final stage. Therefore, side B is strictly better than side A, no arguments about that. This is probably my second favorite Wonder in the base game, following Alexandria B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gizah&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's probably the only wonder with almost equally balanced sides. Side B gives you 5 more points in exchange for one more wonder stage. However, I would still claim that side B is more useful as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It tends to increase the value of the Arena from 6 Victory Points to 8 Victory Points, including money, and the value of Builders' Guild, if you get it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Makes it a perfect anti-science Wonder, as you can tuck 4 green cards underneath it!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, having an equal choice, I'd still choose side B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Halikarnassós&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It probably has the biggest strength difference between side A and side B. Side B offers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 &quot;take from discard pile&quot; actions, instead of 1, on every wonder stage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Victory Points less, in exchange for that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it? You bet it is! The 2 extra cards you'll pick from the discard pile will usually make up the difference, but you'll have more flexibility. Side A's ability is right in the middle, which is really bad, as you'd want to construct your Wonder at the last round of the game, after everybody has discarded their cards. However, you'd lose the final 7 Points if you do, with side A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, side A suffers from Alexandria's side A problem, by requiring a double Loom for the final stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Olympia&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is different. Side B gives you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability to copy a neighbor's Guild.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A double trading post.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Victory Points less and stripes you of the ability to construct a card for free on each Age.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it? Eh, kinda. The double trading post on the first stage is always welcome. However, the &quot;copy a Guild&quot; is usually pointless: a Guild giving lots of points to a neighbor will usually be worthless for you, so the final stage won't give you more than 3-4 points. Even the double trading post won't be always useful, as maybe the player across you has been hoarding all the resources, making your neighbors reluctant to take any brown cards. Furthermore, the ability to construct a building for free is a good one to have and gets very useful in Ages II and III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;3 player games are an exception&lt;/em&gt;, the double trading post is much more powerful, as you are able to buy resources from all your opponents and the final stage tends to give out more points. You can safely pass the Builders' Guild there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consequently, when I have a choice, I pick side B if I'm playing a 3-player game and side A otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rhodes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side B gives you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 coins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only 2 stages and the two shields distributed over them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Victory Points less.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it worth it? Definitely. Taking money into account, side B gives you 9.33 points, but 3 coins are strictly better than 1 Victory Point, as you can spend them to get a valuable card which otherwise you'd have to pass up and they count towards the tiebreaker. Therefore, the 7 Victory Points &amp;amp;&amp;amp; 7 coins are borderline &quot;strictly&quot; better than 10 Victory Points. This money comes very handy in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, taking one shield at a time is much more useful, as you can sometimes have your first shield in Age I, which might make the difference. Not to mention that you have one wonder stage less to build, although this decreases the value of the Arena or Builder's Guild and makes Rhodes a bad anti-science Wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, side B is almost always much more useful and flexible than its side A counterpart. For this very reason, in my groups I always let people chose their favorite side, than just rotating the card as suggested by the rules. Even if the group's rules are to randomly choose the sides, I'd definitely defend anyone who ended up with side A of Alexandria, Ephesos or Halikarnassós, as they are clearly underpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T00:01:28.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20605" CreationDate="2015-11-12T07:32:19.083" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strictly speaking, yes, you can kill a Fog Bank through combat damage. I can think of 2 general ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(1) Remove Fog Bank's ability (the one that prevents combat damage). An example would be if you resolved the spell &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turn%20to%20Frog&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; before combat damage. Without the relevant ability, combat damage to Fog Bank would no longer be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Use an effect that does not allow combat damage to be prevented. For example, if you resolved the spell &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullcrack&quot;&gt;Skullcrack&lt;/a&gt; before combat damage or if Fog Bank were blocking a creature whose damage can't be prevented, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Malignus&quot;&gt;Malignus&lt;/a&gt;, then the damage would NOT be prevented. This interaction is governed by the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the &amp;quot;can't&amp;quot; effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, Fog Bank says &amp;quot;prevent combat damage&amp;quot; and another effect says &amp;quot;damage can't be prevented&amp;quot;, and so the &amp;quot;can't&amp;quot; effect will win out and Fog Bank will not be able to prevent damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7507" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T07:32:19.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27555" CreationDate="2015-11-12T10:55:12.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/27556/3532&quot;&gt;As @Adama describes&lt;/a&gt;, it happens simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to reduce the risk of people cheating that way (e.g., waiting a second to see what your neighbour does before deciding what to do with your card), you could use this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players keep the card they selected in their hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If everyone has selected a card, count down (3, 2, 1).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then everyone places their card on a specific position:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;above the wonder board, if building the card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;below the wonder board, if building a wonder stage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;near the bank, if discarding for money&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(near the Babel board, if discarding and building a Babel tile)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(near the Great Project, if building the card and participating in the construction of the Great Project)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Everyone performs their action.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T10:55:12.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27562" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7893" CreationDate="2015-11-12T21:10:26.510" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes from what I looked up whatever the ability targets as long as the target is there the effect takes place &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;if the 1 damage is the issue the only way to NEGATE it still  will resolve is to have a card that resolves first such is a prevent all damage for target monster until the end of the turn as long as he casts the ability it will resolve if you had one health left and that was the win then you could have a card to resolve first giving you 1 or more health so you don't die and your top card will resolve first  the only way to ever prevent direct damage from resolving in the stack is to kill the opponent then get up and walk away before he can write it down but if you have one health left and you kill him before it resolves I do believe you win may need to check the official rules though could be classified as a double ko&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was looking to see if any ability's can be activated and resolve immediately without saying so such as ones you pay 1 light and 3uncolored for and it gives 2/2 to all creatures you control until the end of the turn &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14306" LastEditorUserId="14306" LastEditDate="2015-11-12T21:26:21.437" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T21:26:21.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27563" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23976" CreationDate="2015-11-12T22:34:10.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is simple. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-A blocked creature deals no damage to the defender player. (trample overrides this rule).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-A creature is considered blocked if a blocker for it was declared in the declare blockers step. (it does not matter if the blocker creature is still in the battlefield or not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-All blockers are declared at same time. (There is no way the attacker knows a blocker and the defender player can still declare another blocker.) The active player could declare attackers and then kill a creature, but that's before declare blockers step. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(note: I'm not calling rules because I think this kind of questions are made by casual players and they need short, clear answers). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14281" LastActivityDate="2015-11-12T22:34:10.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27564" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27565" CreationDate="2015-11-13T00:20:44.177" Score="4" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this card game, you have a hand of 10 cards where you try to order them by replacement. On your turn, you draw a card, switch it with one in your hand, and discard the other one. You can use the top card of the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T04:36:30.263" Title="Card game where you organize your hand" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27564" CreationDate="2015-11-13T04:36:30.263" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems you're thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rack-O&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rack-O&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Rack-O, you have a deck of 40-60 uniquely numbered cards, and start by filling your 10-card rack with them in a random order. You then take turns replacing cards in your rack with either the top card of the discard pile or deck, and the first player to get their cards in ascending order wins. If I remember correctly from playing it, you can't rearrange the cards in your rack either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T04:36:30.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27554" CreationDate="2015-11-13T13:11:09.557" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/911840/accessory-cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; contains confirmation from the game's designer that you can equip as many accessories at once as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T13:11:09.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27542" CreationDate="2015-11-13T18:29:08.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Go tactics are essential, as other answers have said. Two critical aspects of beginning Go play are fuseki (openings, similar in theory to chess; you want to position your first pieces to stake a claim and assert control over territory on the board that you will then defend) and joseki (tactical &quot;battles&quot; for a section of the board; various combinations of white and black stones can be played in a wide variety of ways that boil down to a lesser number of &quot;best practices&quot; that should be studied).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as with almost any pursuit, a good player knows the unwritten rules and how to follow them, but a true master knows which of those he can break, and when. You might make it to single-digit kyu just by studying joseki, but the mark of a true dan-rank Go player is an intuitive knowledge that he doesn't have to play the joseki exactly as he's memorized, if he sees an alternate play based on the surrounding stones that would create an advantage that doesn't exist in the smaller, more sterile joseki studies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as joseki/fuseki resources, there are tons of online resources; Google those terms and you'll find websites/apps that teach you various aspects of these tactical battles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T23:05:19.853" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T23:05:19.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27568" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2015-11-13T21:27:50.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one base-game situation in which Copper is the most advantageous thing to buy is a game where there are no $2 cards on the board, but the Mine card is, and you get a 5-2 start. The only other real option for your 2-hand in the first run through your deck is an Estate, and the only thing worse for your early and middle game than an extra Copper is an early Estate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a fairly unlikely but possible scenario, and it's the best one I can think of in the base game to make a Copper worth buying. The Mine essentially turns all your Coppers into Golds through the course of the game (of course as you build you'll want a couple extra sprinkled in), so having an extra Copper in your deck just makes for one more Gold after two actions with the right hand combination. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even in this scenario, many other Dominion players would rather skip their second turn than buy a Copper. A Mine is very expensive, requires a turn to buy it, then two Actions to turn each Copper into Gold. Therefore, Mine works best in &quot;engine&quot; games based on action-chaining using a Lab or Village/Smithy so you can have as few of them as possible. Similarly but different, Moneylender only works on Copper, so you don't want more than one in your Deck unless the Mountebank from the Intrigue deck is in play (the Mountebank scatters Copper around like confetti; the curses generally take care of themselves as the Mountebank can be countered by trashing one, but the Copper builds and builds and you need some way to trash it). You'll probably end up spamming Village/Smithy or Laboratory to find your Moneylender and a Copper, spend an Action to get rid of it, then either buy a Silver or spend one you found by deck-cycling and buy a Gold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any board where Chapel exists, forget trying to upgrade Coppers; Silver/Chapel (or Chapel and a +Card/+Action like Lab or Village), trashing your initial Estates, then buying enough Silver to start buying Gold (alongside a small +Card/+Buy engine to make the best use of all the Treasure you'll have), is the dominant Big Money strategy when there are no attacks on the board. Anything you could build to upgrade or even get something useful from your Coppers through the early game will be left in the dust by a player who simply trashes them as soon as he has something better, thus creating a lean, predictable, rich early deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only other base-game scenario I can think of where having some extra Copper in your deck might be useful is when someone's spamming Thief as a &quot;whammy&quot; counter to the &quot;Big Money&quot; strategy above. If at least two other players at the table are building a Treasure-dense deck, Throne Room/Thief is hilariously invaluable by netting you a number of decent Treasure cards each turn. If you're going with a Buy-heavy engine against a Thief-spammer, using the extra early Buys to pick up a little extra Copper will further decrease the chances of Thief getting anything good, while not being &lt;em&gt;totally&lt;/em&gt; useless in a Village-Smithy engine that can put most of your Treasure in your hand any given turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2573" LastEditorUserId="2573" LastEditDate="2015-11-13T21:54:10.367" LastActivityDate="2015-11-13T21:54:10.367" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27569" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-14T06:55:23.310" Score="3" ViewCount="634" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a specific faq item regarding Finn Edwards' passive ability as pertaining to Unique Assets, but I cannot make heads nor tails of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q. What happens if Finn Edwards uses his passive ability to not discard a flipped Unique Asset when instructed?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. After resolving the effects on the back of a Unique Asset, if the investigator was not instructed to “flip this card”, the Unique Asset is shuffled into the Unique Asset deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This occurs most frequently when Finn Edwards uses his passive ability to choose not to discard a Unique Asset, but it could occur in other ways. Regardless of how it occurs, the Unique Asset is shuffled into the Unique Asset deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, my understanding of double-sided cards is that any time they are discarded, they are shuffled back into the deck (as mentioned under the Discarding section on page 5 of the Reference Guide).  If this is the case, how is Finn &amp;quot;using&amp;quot; his passive ability doing anything other than what would normally happen anyway? If the answer is implying that he cannot use his passive ability to any positive result, then I would expect the answer to start by saying &amp;quot;Finn cannot use his passive ability to change the outcome etc.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read other comments suggesting that any item that is discarded is not done so technically as part of the item 'effect' so the discard doesn't fall under the power of Finn to affect it.  The answer in the faq here still seems unclear to me.  What is it saying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:28:20.030" Title="How does Finn Edwards' passive ability affect the directive to discard Unique Assets?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-mountains-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27730" CreationDate="2015-11-14T07:14:47.387" Score="5" ViewCount="551" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When resolving a Combat Encounter, you may gain +2 Strength. If you do, each 6 you roll when resolving a etc etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a +5 weapon, typically I take the higher bonus as my bonus (they are not added together), and I can use the non-bonus effects on all items I hold.  In this case, because it says &quot;If you do&quot;, does this mean I must take the +2 Strength as my bonus and nothing higher, even if I have such an item, in order to use the blunderbuss rolling effect stated after?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T09:43:25.077" Title="Does the Blunderbuss require you to use only the +2 strength bonus in order to use its roll effect?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-mountains-madness|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27576" CreationDate="2015-11-14T11:26:58.240" Score="1" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that supply restrictions occur at two times:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the supply card is drawn in the Westeros phase, and supply tracks are adjusted and armies reconciled. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;During mustering, you can't create an army that would exceed supply limits. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the question is - is it within in the rules to say, during mustering create an army that does fit supply limits, and then use a march order to merge it with another army? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do supply limits also apply when applying march orders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T15:07:41.433" Title="Do supply limits apply when resolving march orders?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27572" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27577" CreationDate="2015-11-14T11:31:17.797" Score="1" ViewCount="1260" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have combat against an enemy that has two infantry and a knight on his territory. I use a house card that has two swords, and win the fight, and so two units are destroyed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How the units chosen - do I choose which units are destroyed, or does the loser? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T15:13:59.860" Title="When units are destroyed by sword icons on house cards - how are the units chosen?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27573" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27632" CreationDate="2015-11-14T11:42:31.217" Score="2" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that support orders confer several benefits over march orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support troops won't be destroyed if the fight goes badly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support troops won't be routed if the fight goes badly. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support troops can be used in multiple fights in the round. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that a good strategy might be initiate combat with a single infantry, and use the support troops on an adjacent territory to the one you're attacking. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sole reason I can think that you might not do this, is if on the following turn you want to march your entire army again to a territory that is only accessible from the newly conquered territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding of these rules correct? - What are the downsides of using support over march orders?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T15:39:30.893" Title="Should supports be used as the primary weight of your attack?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27574" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27575" CreationDate="2015-11-14T12:27:54.440" Score="3" ViewCount="553" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens to my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; when it tries to die and there is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rest%20in%20Peace&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt; in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T14:44:01.940" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T14:44:01.940" Title="How do Rest in Peace and Progenitus interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27574" CreationDate="2015-11-14T14:04:59.983" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You (as the controller of Progenitus) get to decide which replacement effect happens. After this first replacement effect happens, the remaining effect doesn't have anything to replace, because the &quot;enters the graveyard&quot; isn't part of the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;616.1.&lt;/strong&gt; If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the affected object's controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T14:04:59.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27571" CreationDate="2015-11-14T15:07:41.433" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, supply limits apply. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/30/4f/304f72e3-4fe4-4f91-bfbe-75133161b092/va65_agot2_rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player is never allowed to take any action in the game that would cause him to exceed his actual supply limit as dictated by his position on the Supply track (such as mustering, marching or retreating, all explained later).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T15:07:41.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27572" CreationDate="2015-11-14T15:13:59.860" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The loser choses&lt;/strong&gt;. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/30/4f/304f72e3-4fe4-4f91-bfbe-75133161b092/va65_agot2_rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 21:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player suffers casualties, he decides which of his units are removed (unless stated otherwise by the text ability of a played House card). Remember that supporting units can never be taken as casualties in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: Each casualty suffered destroys a single unit, regardless of Combat Strength. In other words, removing a Knight unit as a casualty still counts as only one casualty even though its Combat Strength is 2. For this reason, it is generally best to remove Footmen units as casualties, if able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T15:13:59.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27584" CreationDate="2015-11-14T18:05:32.020" Score="0" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;When can an investigator discard funding to remove a debt? Can he do it during anyone's turn anytime to remove it immediately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, can he discard it after the mythos card reveals there is a reckoning coming? My thinking is no because the reckoning has been &quot;declared&quot; so there is no turning back at that point, but it is permissible right before the mythos card is drawn. Is there any documentation on when &quot;discards&quot; are allowed that refutes this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T23:39:39.953" Title="Can I discard Funding anytime to remove a debt?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-mountains-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5107" CreationDate="2015-11-14T19:19:25.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play a few &lt;strong&gt;Miser&lt;/strong&gt;s you want one more copper to reach 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it's quite often worth buying copper when you have &lt;strong&gt;Merchant's Guild&lt;/strong&gt; in play. Those coins are really good if you know when to use them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14318" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T19:19:25.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27583" CreationDate="2015-11-14T22:02:05.810" Score="4" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got Villainous Weaponry in play as our Environment, and my friend has Demoralization, which lets him deal one damage to each &quot;villain target&quot;. Villainous Weaponry has HP, and it's not a hero; does it take damage? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1951" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T22:43:46.690" Title="Is an environment card a villain target?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27582" CreationDate="2015-11-14T22:43:46.690" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found the clarifications document here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_rules_and_clarifications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_rules_and_clarifications.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It reads, in part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What constitutes a Hero or Villain or Environment Target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any card with hp on it is a target, and the type of deck it came from determines&#xA;what kind of a target it is. for example, the “Enraged T-Rex” is an Environment&#xA;card since it comes from the Environment deck, and because it has hp, it is a&#xA;target. Therefore, it is an Environment Target. Same with a Villain card like&#xA;“Blade Battalion”; it is a villain card because it comes from the Villain deck, and&#xA;because it has hp, it is a target, so it’s a Villain Target. likewise, “Decoy&#xA;Projection” is a Hero card from a Hero deck which has hp, and so is a Hero&#xA;Target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Villainous Weaponry is an &lt;em&gt;environment target&lt;/em&gt;, not a &lt;em&gt;villain target&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1951" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T22:43:46.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27578" CreationDate="2015-11-14T23:39:39.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Found this in the faq. The answer is that the funding can be used anytime, even after discovering that there is a reckoning phase, as long as the reckoning effect of either card has not yet begun being resolves (i.e. the card hasn't been flipped).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. When can an investigator discard a Debt Condition with a Funding Condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. If an investigator would gain a Debt Condition and he already has a Funding Condition, he may discard the Funding Condition instead of gaining the Debt Condition.&#xA;If an investigator has both a Debt Condition and a Funding Condition, he may discard both cards at any time so long as the effect of neither Condition is currently being resolved.&#xA;For instance, a Mythos card instructs investigators to resolve reckoning effects; an investigator may choose to discard both Conditions before resolving the reckoning effect of either Condition, but he cannot begin resolving his Debt Condition, decide he doesn’t like what he sees, and then discard both Conditions before finishing the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-14T23:39:39.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T00:43:05.370" Score="7" ViewCount="1877" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there an easy, web based, multi player board and card game prototype tester ? Som that has stack and shuffle for objects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;let's say I wanted to mock up some cards or playing pieces as a jpg and upload them to this virtual tabletop. I would like to be able to turn, shuffle and stack pieces. maybe have some built in custom dice? no rules enforcement, just objects to manipulate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14323" LastEditorUserId="14323" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T04:44:52.980" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T09:55:27.670" Title="Is there an easy, web based, multi player board and card game prototype tester?" Tags="|prototyping|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27586" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27455" CreationDate="2015-11-15T02:33:40.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having played a first game, here's what I recommend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Before&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; the game, get everybody to watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0XRVTacNxI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. The video is 20 minutes long, and is entertaining enough to give a good overview of the rules. The video does a better and more entertaining job of explaining the rules that you will, and will allieviate any 'The games master sucks at explaining the rules/doesn't know what he's doing' tensions. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go over what all of the orders, and influence tracks do. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Set up the game, and then emphasis the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special Consolidate can be used to muster troops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Special Raid can be used to remove a defense order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Supply limits apply when marching troops to merge armies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Support orders can be used for multiple fights in a single round. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;March orders can be chained to allow units to move multiple times in a round. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Make the quick reference page available - it's very useful. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Start playing. Players should be aware that it being a first game there might be a few rule gotchas that they're not aware of, but they should get the hang of the game by the end of it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T01:42:22.120" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T01:42:22.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27587" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27590" CreationDate="2015-11-15T02:54:08.350" Score="1" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each player has a home stronghold, which has a bonus token, which adds combat strength. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - if I attack it and successfully take the territory - what happens? - Is the token discarded? What happens if that player retakes the territory? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T10:30:19.460" Title="What happens when I successfully attack a player's home stronghold?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27600" CreationDate="2015-11-15T07:41:05.133" Score="1" ViewCount="1278" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some mysteries will require you to place eldritch tokens on various spaces. When such a mystery is solved, do you remove the eldritch tokens placed by that mystery?  I have concluded that the tokens are meant to be used generically across cards and effects that cause them to appear, so my thinking is that the answer is &quot;no, they remain on the board, even if they currently have no meaning.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T17:26:37.253" Title="Do I remove eldritch tokens placed on the board after a mystery that placed them is solved?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27587" CreationDate="2015-11-15T10:30:19.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The token, representing the garrison of the stronghold, is removed once it has been taken by an enemy player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the original owner of that territory retakes it, the token is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant quote from the rule book, page 26&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Garrison is defeated in combat (whether defending by itself or&#xA;  with other friendly units), it is permanently removed from the game,&#xA;  regardless of the number of Sword or Fortification icons on House&#xA;  cards played in the combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T10:30:19.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27592" CreationDate="2015-11-15T14:06:40.520" Score="2" ViewCount="245" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pernicious%20Deed&quot;&gt;Pernicious Deed&lt;/a&gt; is destroying my token army along with my counterless &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jar%20of%20Eyeballs&quot;&gt;Jar of Eyeballs&lt;/a&gt;. Can I use the jar's activated ability before it goes to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2668" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T15:59:57.610" Title="Jar of Eyeballs vs mass destruction" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27591" CreationDate="2015-11-15T14:44:39.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not really - X would be zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you let Pernicious Deed's ability resolve, it destroys everything simultaneously. Even if it didn't, there's no chance to cast other spells or activate other abilities while something is resolving. The Jar's first ability does still trigger and try to put counters on it, but again, that doesn't resolve until after the Deed's ability does, so by the time it resolves, the Jar is also already in the graveyard. Its ability tries to put counters on it, but it's not there, so nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by the time you get a chance to do anything, your Jar is already gone. Your last chance to use it is before the Deed's ability resolves, but at that point your Jar has no eyeballs, so activating the ability won't do anything useful. You can still do it, but I don't think X=0 is what you were hoping for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T15:59:57.610" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T15:59:57.610" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27585" CreationDate="2015-11-15T19:14:35.707" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;An open-source boardgame engine, could be what you are looking for:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Vassal Engine&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vassalengine.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It provides counters, cards, board and does not enforce any rules, it provides solely &quot;component handling&quot;. You need to create your own module (a container which holds all components as images and text) and then you should be able to send that module to other players or designers to test your prototype. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can even play together if the game is multiplayer and not solely solitaire. Play by Forum (PBF), Play by Email (PBEM), Peer-to-Peer (P2P) playing is supported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a direct link to the user guide to evaluate the features: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/mediawiki/images/8/8c/Userguide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vassalengine.org/mediawiki/images/8/8c/Userguide.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to get started, you follow these tutorials: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Tutorials&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Tutorials&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Card_Game_Tutorial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Card_Game_Tutorial&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Board_Game_Tutorial&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Board_Game_Tutorial&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While VASSAL certainly is powerful, the initial steps for simple games are quite simple. Yet after a while, the options like automated game setup will be a blessing for you and your playtesters. The game logs will be important to evaluate the game, i.e. find too weak or too powerful strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FAQ for module creation:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Creating_Modules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.vassalengine.org/wiki/Creating_Modules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastEditorUserId="14326" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T03:10:49.797" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T03:10:49.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3146" CreationDate="2015-11-15T19:42:46.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Descent is balanced towards the heroes, if certain conditions are met:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Played with 4 Heroes, regardless of actual player count &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Descent scales terribly. The actions of all 4 heroes are necessary to counter the spawn rate of the overlord and all 4 pair of eyes are necessary to see enough of the dungeon to restrict spawning locations. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A balanced quest is selected &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Quest 1 in Descent Base Game is balanced in favor of the heroes, as it introduces people to the game, while other quests are clearly very challenging for the heroes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All rules are followed&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Descent has a couple of quirky rules and especially new players struggle with them. Make sure all rules are played properly, especially regarding combat, spawning and movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use skills to the best of your abilities and combine skills of multiple heroes for great synergies. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skills (hero skills as well as skills gained from cards) provide awesome abilities, which really make your life easier. Guard fragile heroes with your defensive characters (shields are a must!) and use your fragile offensive heroes with a lot of endurance to cleanse the rooms as quickly and efficiently (in terms of actions) as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally my impression is, that descent 1st edition benefits from the expansions, which further equals the playing field. While most quests in &lt;em&gt;well of darkness&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;altair of despair&lt;/em&gt; are clearly in favor of the overlord, the feat cards from &lt;em&gt;tomb of ice&lt;/em&gt; help in critical situations, which gives heroes a needed boost in those few critical moments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least:&#xA;The heroes should be aware of the &quot;runner&quot;. Fast heroes (5 movement) with high endurance (4-5) can move up to 17-19 spaces (run action (10 movement) with a endurance potion (4 endurance for movement, 1 to drink potion, again 5 endurance for movement). Frequently this means: Open a door with the 1st turn of the 1st hero and then let the runner open the unguarded chest and disappear through the glyph. This provides items for the party and 3 quest markers, to heavily boost the situation of the heroes (heroes can now die again, due more markers and are harder to kill due to better equipment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If after all these changes, you still consider that you need a handicap, then I would consider the &quot;official play-tested handicap&quot; from the &lt;em&gt;road to legend&lt;/em&gt; expansion. The &lt;strong&gt;Spawn Marker&lt;/strong&gt;. Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The overlord can only spawn if the spawn marker is on it's active side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the overlord spawns, the marker is turned to its inactive side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The marker is activated when 1 of 2 things happen:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The overlord pays 15 threat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The overlord reveals a new area of the map.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can simply print your own double sided spawn marker or write it down on a piece of paper. This handicap restricts the most powerful option of the overlord, while it does not completely destroys the overlord. He can spawn freely once per area and if the heroes took to long (i.e. threat piled up), but he can't &quot;spam&quot; the map with monster, which is most often the problem of the heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played with this option in vanilla descent and with all 3 expansions thrown in and it worked very elegantly in all scenarios. The games are balanced and the overlord still has all options available to him. The games actually benefited from it, as more attention was paid to other interesting options of the overlord, like traps and spells. This provides more &quot;flavor&quot; that the overlord, instead of only being &quot;lord of the monsters&quot; he now feels truly evil.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastEditorUserId="14326" LastEditDate="2015-11-15T19:51:29.973" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:51:29.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14556" CreationDate="2015-11-15T19:58:07.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The base game is required as it provides certain &quot;core components&quot; which are used in every game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansions only provide &quot;additional&quot; components, which complement or replace certain but not all core components. You can however, start with a different campaign in descent 2nd edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general opinion is, that the later campaign books were more balanced, had more story and provided more overall flavor. So if you buy a big box expansion (which come with their own campaigns) you could delve straight into those. The campaigns may be slightly more complicated, as story events mess with some rules, so maybe 1-2 &quot;test games&quot; may be advised to start ANY campaign to ensure that no &quot;beginner mistakes&quot; are made in the first couple of games, which could screw the entire campaign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, all expansions are compatible with each other, so you don't need to buy anything &quot;in order&quot;. Just buy whatever seems most interesting for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastActivityDate="2015-11-15T19:58:07.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27596" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-15T20:18:33.890" Score="4" ViewCount="2895" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this game?  Board is a one-piece solid oak plank (approximately 7-3/4 inch by 13-3/4 inch) with 247 holes in three areas.  Appears that each player begins with 39 black or white pegs parked in separate and opposite &quot;home&quot; areas (each home area is 13 by 3 rows).  Playing area consists of a central 13 by 13 grid of holes.  I presume that pegs are moved from home area to playing area in turns.  I have the game but no idea of the name or rules.  I understand that this game was a favorite in &quot;Games Magazine&quot; in the mid-1980s.  Well made board and wooden dowel pegs.  No box (not sure there ever was one) or instructions.  Does this ring a bell with anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14327" LastActivityDate="2017-07-01T10:57:42.837" Title="Two person wooden peg board game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27588" CreationDate="2015-11-16T09:25:46.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you remove all the token as soon as the mystery is solved.  They serve no purpose afterwards. They are meant to be used generically iff there is a card that require them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T09:25:46.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27570" CreationDate="2015-11-16T09:27:15.437" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card is quiet clear: &lt;em&gt;If you do&lt;/em&gt;. If you do not use the +2, then you cannot use the special ability.  This does make the blunderbuss less useful than the shotgun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There seem to be some confusion in what I mean.  I read&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When resolving a Combat Encounter, you may gain +2 Strength. If you do, each 6 you roll when resolving a combat encounter counts as two successes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When resolving a Combat Encounter, you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; gain +2 Strength. If you &lt;em&gt;gain +2 Strength from the Blunderbuss&lt;/em&gt;, each 6 you roll when resolving a combat encounter counts as two successes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; as an invitation to either do it or not. You have a choice whether to apply the bonus or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have a knife that grants me +3 Strength and I use that bonus, then sixes &lt;em&gt;do not count&lt;/em&gt; as double successes. If I chose to not use the knife but instead use the +2 from the Blunderbuss, then all sixes rolled are double successes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This follows the golden rule of cooperative games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a rule can be interpreted in several ways, the right one is the least helpful to the players.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T09:43:25.077" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T09:43:25.077" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27599" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27602" CreationDate="2015-11-16T17:18:40.480" Score="2" ViewCount="193" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, at most two miniatures can occupy a square. Some miniatures are larger than others. Do the larger miniatures such as the minotaur fill a square by themselves, or can they share the square with another miniature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T19:38:22.620" LastActivityDate="2022-01-29T04:14:12.173" Title="Can big miniatures share their square in Arcadia Quest?" Tags="|arcadia-quest|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27588" CreationDate="2015-11-16T17:26:37.253" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference guide&lt;/a&gt;, page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When the active Mystery is solved or removed from play, discard &#xA;  all tokens on it or placed by it. Then draw a new Mystery, placing &#xA;  it on top of any solved Mysteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in almost all cases, tokens placed my mysteries would be removed, and then replaced if the next drawn Mystery card requires additional tokens to be placed on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an individual Mystery card specifies differently, the text on the card supersedes the text in the rules.  E.g., there is a Cthulhu-specific mystery that specifies that all eldritch tokens placed as a result of that card remain even after the mystery is solved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T17:26:37.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12945" CreationDate="2015-11-16T18:08:48.153" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, it makes the game harder. With on the brink expansion, we were sometimes winning with 6 virulent epidemics and the mutation challenge but now we can't even manage to win with 6 normal epidemics w/o any other challenge.&#xA;Takes more actions to find a cure for sure imo considering you have to collect a certain amount of cubes and then move them throughout the lab and sequence and characterize. Anyway, it makes the game evenmore complicated and enjoyable still.&#xA;Peace and love&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14333" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T18:08:48.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27599" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:28:22.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rulesbook on page 15 (Full or blocked spaces) it's said:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each Space can contain a maximum of two Characters at a time. A Space with up to one character in it is still considered to be free, since other characters, enemy or allied, can still enter it and shoot through it normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no mention of monster size here. Moreover in the same chapter, the example pictures a space with a lone troll (which is a big miniature) in it as free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/icggc.png&quot; alt=&quot;Troll alone is free&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-11-16T19:37:22.993" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T19:37:22.993" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-16T19:57:59.143" Score="3" ViewCount="7600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know lands are colourless, but is a land a colourless spell? Would it activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Molten%20Nursery&quot;&gt;Molten Nursery&lt;/a&gt; or any other card that is activated with a colourless spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14336" LastEditorUserId="14201" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T14:59:14.700" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T14:59:14.700" Title="Is a land a colourless spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27603" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:01:45.387" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lands are not spells. They have no mana cost and you do not cast them. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Lands&quot;&gt;Rule 305.1&lt;/a&gt; describes how lands are played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who has priority may play a land card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Playing a land is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). Rather, the player simply puts the land onto the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;Since the land doesn’t go on the stack, it is never a spell&lt;/strong&gt;, and players can’t respond to it with instants or activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T20:01:45.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27603" CreationDate="2015-11-16T20:02:22.850" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lands are never spells, even if they have other types like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.1.&lt;/strong&gt; A player who has priority may play a land card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Playing a land is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). Rather, the player simply puts the land onto the battlefield. Since the land doesn’t go on the stack, &lt;strong&gt;it is never a spell&lt;/strong&gt;, and players can’t respond to it with instants or activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.9.&lt;/strong&gt; If an object is both a land and another card type, it can be played only as a land. It can’t be cast as a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-11-16T20:02:22.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27606" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:57:12.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A game by Jason C. Hill, published by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.flyingfrog.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flying Frog Production&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was funded via &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1034852783/shadows-of-brimstone/description&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a Kickstarter campaign&lt;/a&gt; and can be played using one or both of the core sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/146791/shadows-brimstone-city-ancients&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;City of the Ancients&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/150997/shadows-brimstone-swamps-death&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Swamps of Death&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:09:29.273" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:09:29.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27607" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-16T21:57:12.233" Score="0" Body="A cooperative Western-themed dungeon-crawl game." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:09:29.273" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:09:29.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12448" CreationDate="2015-11-17T06:55:42.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that duel decks are better when played with players who know what they're doing since it provides a challenge to win, however, if you know which deck is overpowered (if either deck is) and you have your mind set on getting one then I would suggest letting the new player play with the more easily operated deck and then the tougher one, kind of like stages or levels of difficulty. This way it gives you a bit of a challenge (depending on your skill level) and them an easier time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14338" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T06:55:42.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27569" CreationDate="2015-11-17T12:42:33.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/39/c1/39c182c1-6b0d-46c4-b5eb-dd6886b4c798/eh01_reference_guide1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference Manual&lt;/a&gt; for Eldritch horror, when Discarding: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a double-sided card is discarded, it is immediately shuffled &#xA;  back into its respective deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing supersedes this rule in updated manuals or contradicts this anywhere else within the guide.  For instance, under the &lt;em&gt;Discarding&lt;/em&gt; heading in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/39/c1/39c182c1-6b0d-46c4-b5eb-dd6886b4c798/eh01_reference_guide1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference guide&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a card is discarded, it is placed in a faceup discard pile &#xA;  by its deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Double-sided cards, such as Spells or Conditions, are immediately &#xA;  shuffled back into their respective decks when discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This still indicates that while the general rule is a separate discard pile, double-sided cards as a whole are immediately reshuffled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For how this works with Finn's passive ability, we need to look at the specific wording of his &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH03-%20Mountains%20of%20Madness/EH03-FinnSheet.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;character sheet&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effects&lt;/strong&gt; cannot cause [Finn] to discard &lt;em&gt;...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Emph&lt;/em&gt; added.  So this means that a game effect (e.g. an encounter causing Finn to become &lt;em&gt;delayed&lt;/em&gt; and lose &lt;em&gt;an ally&lt;/em&gt;) can be ignored.  The natural consequences of using an item, however, cannot be ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, Finn's ability would prevent someone from stealing his &lt;em&gt;Old Journal&lt;/em&gt;, but if said journal were aged and worn, he would be unable to prevent its falling apart upon reading it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T12:42:33.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27612" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27616" CreationDate="2015-11-17T17:23:45.900" Score="3" ViewCount="4119" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put together a Legacy Elfdrazi deck relying on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Piper&quot;&gt;Elvish Piper&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Concordant%20Crossroads&quot;&gt;Concordant Crossroads&lt;/a&gt;, some mana dorks and a bunch of tutoring like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373333&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Green Sun's Zenith&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldly%20Tutor&quot;&gt;Worldly Tutor&lt;/a&gt; to get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370405&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Progenitus&lt;/a&gt; out by turn 3-6 depending on how I draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Problem is that if things go poorly and I don't get Emrakul out til turn 5 or 6, my friend has managed to start playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4663&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Extinction&lt;/a&gt; which he recently acquired in response to my Elfdrazi deck. He's started winning nearly all our games with this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am unsure how to respond. It's a mono-green deck and splashing blue to get my hands on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Unnatural%20Selection&quot;&gt;Unnatural Selection&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standardize&quot;&gt;Standardize&lt;/a&gt; (cheap blue cards that allow me to change all my creatures' creature types at a moment's notice, protecting them from Extinction) would slow me down a lot, most likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What effective ways are there to protect a tribal deck from black type-specific board clear? Is my best choice to buy more concordant crossroads and more pipers and try to make the deck faster so he never gets a chance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T17:29:57.070" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T11:39:28.870" Title="How to protect a tribal deck from Extinction?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27612" CreationDate="2015-11-17T17:36:32.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given green's normal options, I would look at regeneration to protect against &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Extinction&quot;&gt;Extinction&lt;/a&gt;.  The best anti-Extinction card I could find with a little searching was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrap%20in%20Vigor&quot;&gt;Wrap in Vigor&lt;/a&gt; that is mono green.  If you could splash colors then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20Charm&quot;&gt;Golgari Charm&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Loxodon%20Hierarch&quot;&gt;Loxodon Hierarch&lt;/a&gt; look promising as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course green has lots of options for single creature regeneration.  You could also look into cards that make your creatures indestructable.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shield%20of%20Kaldra&quot;&gt;Shield of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Plate&quot;&gt;Darksteel Plate&lt;/a&gt; come to mind as possibilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T17:36:32.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27612" CreationDate="2015-11-17T17:37:17.100" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wirewood%20Symbiote&quot;&gt;Wirewood Symbiote&lt;/a&gt;. You can activate one in response to Extinction to effectively make an Elf dodge the removal, and assuming that they chose &amp;quot;Elf&amp;quot;, the Symbiote itself won't die. Plus, you can also use it to untap mana creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Titania&quot;&gt;Priest of Titania&lt;/a&gt; for lots of mana, so it's a good addition to a deck like this in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Monument&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Monument&lt;/a&gt;, which makes all of your creatures indestructible, and also costs {5}, so you should be able to play it first with your mana ramp. Plus, it's a flavor match. The downside is that you have to sacrifice a creature each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should also learn how to play around mass removal in general. If you think your opponent is about to play Extinction, hold some things back in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-17T17:44:38.013" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T17:44:38.013" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27269" CreationDate="2015-11-17T18:27:22.250" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fact, the Legacy rules themselves suggest playing a few games if you aren't familiar with Pandemic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IF YOU'VE NEVER PLAYED PANDEMIC...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We recommend that you play a few games without any of the special&#xA;&amp;quot;Legacy&amp;quot; rules to get a feel for the decisions you will have to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read this rulebook then play without using the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•Game Months, Legacy Deck, Dossiers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•Objectives, Funding, Game Calendar, Panic Level&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•Scars and Lost Characters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•Game End Upgrades&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object of these warm-up games is to cure four diseases before any of&#xA;the game-losing conditions are triggered (noted on page 14 of these rules).&#xA;You should play at least two games this way to get a feel for the game before&#xA;adding the additional rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14341" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-17T18:27:22.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27612" CreationDate="2015-11-18T01:07:58.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Playing Around Board Wipes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your purposes, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Extinction&quot;&gt;Extinction&lt;/a&gt; is just a board wipe, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Supreme%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Supreme Verdict&lt;/a&gt;. In fact, at CMC 5, it's a slow board wipe. In a no-holds-barred Legacy environment, you'd be having to deal with faster sweepers like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perish&quot;&gt;Perish&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terminus&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you could try to get cute with instant-speed creature-type changing here, but nothing really prevents your friend from switching to more conventional mass removal to get the job done — even a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Marsh%20Casualties&quot;&gt;Marsh Casualties&lt;/a&gt; will clean out mana dorks very efficiently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do you do if you're unprepared for a sweeper? General strategy is to &lt;strong&gt;be faster&lt;/strong&gt; but &lt;strong&gt;don't overextend&lt;/strong&gt;. Aggro decks commonly try to put a lot of pressure on their opponents right out the gate, forcing opponents to scramble to stabilize. &amp;quot;Curve-toppers&amp;quot; (especially creatures with haste or evasive abilities) and burn spells (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;) help get the last few points of damage in after that Supreme Verdict has dropped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, in your case, you're playing a combo deck that uses creatures for mana instead of constantly pressuring life totals, so racing the sweeper is a bit of an all-or-nothing arrangement: if you fail, you've lost a lot of resources with basically nothing to show for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, what do you do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Combo Deck Fundamentals&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most combo decks want to be fast. That's basically their whole value proposition: devote most of your deck to doing weird, kinda useless-seeming stuff in order to quickly work your way up to a devastating finish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, can you tune up your combo engine to make your deck faster? For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tournament-grade elf decks often use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heritage%20Druid&quot;&gt;Heritage Druid&lt;/a&gt;+&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nettle%20Sentinel&quot;&gt;Nettle Sentinel&lt;/a&gt; as a mana engine. Heritage Druid will help speed up hands where you didn't get a Concordant Crossroads.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tournament-grade elf decks tend to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20of%20Nature&quot;&gt;Glimpse of Nature&lt;/a&gt; (or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beck&quot;&gt;Beck&lt;/a&gt;) to chain lots of cards quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacing some of your slower elves with these cards might help you gain a turn or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also speed up your deck by improving its &lt;em&gt;consistency&lt;/em&gt;. If you're &amp;quot;going off&amp;quot; on turn 3 50% of the time and turn 4 50% of the time, then getting that ratio down to 90%/10% is effectively the same as speeding your deck up by half a turn. Card filtering, tutors (not just for your endgame piece but for the cards you need to get there), and better access to redundant cards will all help get you there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, unless you're playing a truly degenerate format, your opponents &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be able to interact with you, and your deck needs to be able to go off despite their best attempts at disruption — especially in post-sideboard games where they might bring in specific countermeasures against you. Some tried-and-true strategies here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of redundant pieces. Elf decks usually naturally have this covered, since they play a lot of highly interchangeable cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Plan B.&amp;quot; A second combo (e.g. slower but simpler), going offensive with your creatures, or the ability to play for the endgame like a control deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Disruption. Protect your combo with disruptive elements of your own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Deckbuilding Suggestions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your deck already has a fair bit of redundancy to it. &amp;quot;Plan B&amp;quot; is pretty easy: go on the offense with your little elves, perhaps using Ezuri's Overrun ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's focus on that third pillar: disruption. The best colors for this are blue and black, which are the colors of counterspells and targeted discard, respectively. I prefer targeted discard for true combo decks, because it allows me to go after my opponent's disruptive resources on my own schedule rather than having to wait and hold open counterspell mana (if you want to do that, build full-on combo-control, or play an instant-speed combo deck). Targeted discard also works well in combo decks because oftentimes your opponent only has a few cards that can truly interact with yours — you don't need to deal with all of their cards, just the handful of reactive cards or hosers they're using to slow down your combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, let's just use targeted discard to rip our opponents' hands apart before they can nuke our elves away. As a bonus, we'll get the ability to see their hands, which makes it much easier to play around whatever they still have in hand. The optimal targeted discard cards are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Therapy&quot;&gt;Cabal Therapy&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Inquisition%20of%20Kozilek&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;; in your case, IoK is suboptimal (you care about some CMC 4+ spells, but in a pinch you can chump-block with an elf or two, so you don't particularly need discard spells that can hit cheap creatures), but all the other ones have their appeal:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Therapy&quot;&gt;Cabal Therapy&lt;/a&gt; for maximum value, if you're comfortable guessing strategically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt; if you want a targeted discard spell guaranteed to hit something.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt; if you're budget-limited or you think Thoughtseize exposes you to too much risk from aggro deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Going green/black, even if it's just a splash, also opens up access to a number of other interesting options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shaman%20of%20the%20Pack&quot;&gt;Shaman of the Pack&lt;/a&gt; lets you turn elves into life drain.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black/green gives you access to a lot of great removal, including &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Maelstrom%20Pulse&quot;&gt;Maelstrom Pulse&lt;/a&gt; (and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pernicious%20Deed&quot;&gt;Pernicious Deed&lt;/a&gt;, but that's suicide for your deck).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golgari%20Charm&quot;&gt;Golgari Charm&lt;/a&gt; is a multifaceted spell that can protect your elves from some (but not all!) sweeper effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black is a great color for digging stuff out of the graveyard. You've even got some mass revival options like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Patriarch%27s%20Bidding&quot;&gt;Patriarch&amp;#39;s Bidding&lt;/a&gt; (perfect for a &amp;quot;tribal&amp;quot; deck). Since such spells are costly, I don't really recommend them for one-on-one, but they may be a good addition to a deck for multiplayer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are all secondary to the pure defensive benefit or running discard spells to protect your combo, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T15:37:24.677" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T15:37:24.677" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27618" CreationDate="2015-11-18T18:00:03.940" Score="3" ViewCount="1323" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nathan and Alice are playing a Modern tournament at Competitive REL. Alice is playing &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/taking-modern-by-storm/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Storm&lt;/a&gt;, and keeping track of the storm count using a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Life_counter#Spindown_life_counter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spindown&lt;/a&gt;. &amp;quot;Storm count&amp;quot; is shorthand for &amp;quot;the number of spells cast this turn&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyretic%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Pyretic Ritual&lt;/a&gt; and copies it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyromancer%20Ascension&quot;&gt;Pyromancer Ascension&lt;/a&gt;. She announces that the storm count has increased by two, and adjusts her spindown accordingly. This is incorrect. Spell copies created by Pyromancer Ascension do not contribute towards the storm count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When is Nathan obligated to inform Alice that the storm count is wrong? Must he inform her immediately, or can he wait until she casts a spell with storm (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grapeshot&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt;) before explaining the storm count is actually less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-06T14:32:15.300" LastActivityDate="2017-10-06T14:32:15.300" Title="When are players obligated to tell their opponent that the storm count is wrong?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27617" CreationDate="2015-11-18T18:14:27.643" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nathan is not obligated to inform Alice that the storm count is wrong until Grapeshot's triggered ability resolves. In the section of the rules regarding player communication, there is no rule that says that players are at any time obligated to volunteer information spontaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rules also say &quot;Players may not represent derived or free information incorrectly&quot; and &quot;Players must answer completely and honestly any specific questions pertaining to free information.&quot; According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/493228-asking-judge-to-keep-track-of-storm-count#c5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt; Rainbolt found, storm count is free information. So if Alice asks what the storm count is, Nathan must give the correct answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once Grapeshot's triggered ability resolves, the two players must agree on &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; spells are on the stack, which means that Nathan must then inform Alice of the actual number of copies of Grapeshot created. That is because, if Alice put the wrong number of copies on the stack, that would be a Game Play Error, which means that if Nathan lets her do it, that would be a Failure to Maintain Game State.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-18T23:58:14.253" LastActivityDate="2015-11-18T23:58:14.253" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27620" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27617" CreationDate="2015-11-18T20:07:01.010" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the tournament rules, you only need to agree on the storm count when the game calls on you to know it to correctly perform a game action, so you have no obligation to correct your opponent before then, though you are not allowed to lie about it, either. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/27618/1910&quot;&gt;Murgatroid's answer explains the details&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, note that any confusion or disagreement is likely to require calling a judge, and that judge is likely to end up having to stand there and reconstruct the entire turn to figure out the correct count — something that can be fiendishly complicated if, for example, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPast%20in%20Flames%5d&quot;&gt;Past in Flames&lt;/a&gt; was played as part of the combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, practically speaking, this is going to be a headache for everyone involved. You're also at a disadvantage: your opponent might argue that you previously agree to their count when they incremented the number and you didn't dispute it. So you will want clear evidence to convince the judge that your version of events is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, this move is legal, but you need to also think about it in practical terms, since you're entering a procedural quagmire:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you're going to choose to wait til the last possible moment to dispute the storm count, you should keep impeccable notes. This will help ensure that you get a correct ruling, and quickly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Even with the best intentions and utmost preparation, your peers may regard it as unsportsmanlike, since you're choosing to take one of the most annoying aspects of the game and magnify it significantly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T00:03:58.490" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27621" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27626" CreationDate="2015-11-19T04:03:40.543" Score="4" ViewCount="355" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know in a four player game the standard terms for the players are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;West&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I think about it I can just drop South for three handed games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;West&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Five handed games have that pesky extra player so I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Top&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Middle Left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Middle Right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottom Right&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those terms work, but they don't have the pizazz of the cardinal directions and feel slightly awkward. &lt;strong&gt;What are the usual terms for five handed matches?&lt;/strong&gt; If there aren't any usual terms, what words can I use that clearly convey the location without sounding awkward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it helps the three handed players are positioned like points on an equilateral triangle, and five handed players are positioned like points on a pentagon. Four handed players are positioned like points on a + (plus sign) or diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've realized that I was ambiguous about the context of the question. What I'm looking for is generic terms used when diagramming play on paper. For an example of what I'm talking about &lt;a href=&quot;http://aces.bridgeblogging.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;from Bridge&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVDVF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RVDVF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;example of paper description&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13495" LastEditorUserId="13495" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T17:58:12.343" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T10:50:07.420" Title="Generic player position names for five player matches" Tags="|playing-cards|terminology|pinochle|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27621" CreationDate="2015-11-19T08:31:06.273" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know of an &quot;usual&quot; way of calling players in that case, but wouldn't a clock analogy do the trick, here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 o'clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 o'clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 o'clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 o'clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 o'clock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T17:06:09.530" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T17:06:09.530" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27624" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16822" CreationDate="2015-11-19T13:37:54.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the number of pips showing on any rolled die as a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, a standard creature/character rolling one die has a range of possibilities from 0-2.  Let's say a creature got to roll one die, but had one additional succcess.  Then that creature rolls a die (normal 0-2 distribution) and adds one.  So, their overall distribution is 1-3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The impact of this is that the creature will &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; have some successes that must be defended against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T13:37:54.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27621" CreationDate="2015-11-19T17:48:04.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there are any usual terms. This is not as fancy as cardinal directions, but it is simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Four&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Five&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The beauty of this approach is that, like cardinal directions, as soon as you know one position, you can easily identify the remaining positions. Granted, you have to know whether the numbering is clockwise or counter-clockwise (people generally expect clockwise, the same way that they expect West to be on the left).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not see much confusion stemming from numbering the players. Consider the sentence &quot;Two leads with a two.&quot; It is easy to identify that the first &quot;two&quot; is a player, while the second &quot;two&quot; is a rank. In the rare situations where additional clarification is required, simply provide the full qualification, &quot;player two&quot;, instead of just &quot;two&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-19T18:29:51.133" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T18:29:51.133" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27621" CreationDate="2015-11-19T18:57:37.483" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bouncing  on @rainbolt's answer, if spatial position is not important in the game you describe but you fear confusion by using A,B,C,D,E or 1,2,3,4,5, you could maybe also go with the Greek alphabet : alpha, beta, gamma, delta or epsilon (or the symbols if you think people are familiar enough with them)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An alternative I sometimes use when I need to describe players around a table in a rule or an example are first-names. I then tend to use the first letters of the alphabet as their initials to convey the idea of people in a given order. For instance : Alan, Bridget, Carl, Dan and Ellen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-19T18:57:37.483" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2279" CreationDate="2015-11-19T20:58:18.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Erik P. said it is not necessary to know the story to play the game. I would add that it can be a good way to be introduced to the Lord of the Rings world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the game goes quite deep into the story, but not in a way that gives an advantage to who has read the books. There are 4 maps: Moria, Helm's Deep, Shelob's lair and Mordor (plus Bree and Isengard with the expansion &lt;em&gt;Friends &amp;amp; Foes&lt;/em&gt;). Each takes you through an &lt;em&gt;episode&lt;/em&gt; of the book. You'll face many events, gather shields, hearts, rings and suns, &lt;em&gt;meet&lt;/em&gt; some famous characters - like Tom Bombadil, Glorfindel, Aragorn, Gandalf or Gollum - and call for Gandalf's help many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know the books (or even the movies) you'll know who these characters and places are. In the case of Gollum, that means you know that he's neither a friend nor totally a foe. This is made clear in the game as the card for Gollum has three stars and one die (dies are dangerous), so you won't be wronged by this lack of knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while knowing the story will give you the reasons for &lt;em&gt;why this event happens there&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;why this character has these specifications&lt;/em&gt;, the game will introduce newcomers fairly well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end, even if you know the books very well, you'll be nothing more than a bunch of hobbits facing too great a destiny. In my case, this meant meeting Sauron in the Moria, many, many times...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beside, Howe's illustrations are awesome!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14354" LastEditorUserId="14354" LastEditDate="2021-05-23T09:00:07.710" LastActivityDate="2021-05-23T09:00:07.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27630" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-20T05:48:42.467" Score="5" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Batman Fluxx, if &lt;em&gt;Zap A Card&lt;/em&gt; was used to take another player's keeper, is this considered stealing a keeper?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Zap A Card&lt;/em&gt; is an Action card with the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Choose any card in play anywhere on the table (except for the Basic Rules and any Meta Rules) and add it to your hand, unless the card you Zapped is a Creeper, in which case it goes in front of you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14356" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-11-20T13:45:15.167" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T18:09:20.093" Title="Is Zap A Card considered stealing if a keeper was taken from another player?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27612" CreationDate="2015-11-20T11:39:28.870" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are effects like &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/8e/en/247.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fecundity&lt;/a&gt; which let you draw from the destruction of your creatures, refilling your hand and thus enabling you to start setting up your combo once more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14289" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T11:39:28.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27573" CreationDate="2015-11-20T15:39:30.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've done a good job of detailing the main advantages of using a support order, but you've left out a key concern when using them: enemy raid orders can remove support orders, so your supporting regions would need to be buffered against enemy-controller regions of the board. You also rightly introduce the fact that the march orders are the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; way to get your troops to move around the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another somewhat related aspect is the limitations on the size of your armies based on the supply track. If you have one or two large armies supporting a number of single unit forward positions, you can make much better use of the larger armies if they are supporting forward positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing to consider is that there are a number of hero abilities which negate or change the effects of supporting troops, which don't affect the troops in the region doing the attacking/defending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13511" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T15:39:30.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27585" CreationDate="2015-11-20T21:26:37.870" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Roll20 is a website primarily designed for digital RPG games, but I know that it includes dice, tokens, a playing field, uploadable images, and a variety of other open ended tools for DMs and players. However, it sounds like it may be usable for your purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13538" LastActivityDate="2015-11-20T21:26:37.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27635" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27638" CreationDate="2015-11-21T04:54:40.757" Score="0" ViewCount="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can tokens be changed to different symbols using the arrow power, or can only rolled dice be altered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T16:03:47.060" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T16:03:47.060" Title="Can tokens be converted to different symbols?" Tags="|cv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27637" CreationDate="2015-11-21T07:50:08.393" Score="2" ViewCount="3976" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son just got a &lt;em&gt;Breakthrough Elite Trainer Box&lt;/em&gt;. He's got several basic and stage 1 Pokémon and I'd like to find out what Pokémon those cards evolve to. &lt;strong&gt;What's the best way to find out how basic and stage 1 Pokémon can evolve?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T09:31:54.320" Title="How can I find what basic and stage 1 Pokémon cards can evolve to?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27636" CreationDate="2015-11-21T11:20:25.657" Score="9" Body="&lt;h3&gt;TL;DR - Simple way&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-tcg/pokemon-cards/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pokémon TCG Card Database&lt;/a&gt; where you can find cards that evolves from a card you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Explanation and hard way&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokémon TCG uses the same evolution system as video games and anime, i.e. every Pokémon has determined number of possible evolutions. However, most of them has only one or zero evolutions. &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/List_of_Pok%C3%A9mon_by_evolution_family&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bulbapedia List of Pokémon by evolution families&lt;/a&gt; has all possible evolutions available, if you don't know them at all. Mega evolutions are included &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/List_of_Pok%C3%A9mon_by_evolution_family&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TCG also has its own additions to that system, although they are rather simple.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sun &amp;amp; Moon evolution mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any Pokémon other than ♢ Pokémon&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;normal evolution rules: Basic → Stage 1 → Stage 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some Baby Pokémon are excluded, i.e. Pikachu is Basic Pokémon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokémon ♢ (Prism Star)&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;card is Basic even if the particular Pokémon is normally not Basic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deprecated evolution mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokémon EX, Pokémon SP, and Pokémon ☆ - always Basic, can have Lv.X or Mega Evolution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pokémon BREAK and Pokémon Lv.X - power-up that enhances some Pokémon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mega Evolution Pokémon&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;evolve like Stage 1 (are put onto Basic Pokémon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;player's turn ends immediately after Mega Evolving a Pokémon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restored Pokémon - evolve like Basic Pokémon (can evolve into Stage 1 Pokémon)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baby Pokémon&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generation 2 and 3: evolve into Basic Pokémon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;generation 4: Baby Pokémon are Basic cards that don't evolve at all&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;all other mechanics follow normal evolution rules&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get all cards your Pokémon can evolve into, find if it has an evolution and look it up in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-tcg/pokemon-cards/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pokémon TCG Card Database&lt;/a&gt;, which includes released cards, or in &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/List_of_Pok%C3%A9mon_by_evolution_family&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bulbapedia List of Pokémon by evolution families&lt;/a&gt; (select a Pokémon, then select &lt;em&gt;In the TCG&lt;/em&gt;), which includes also very old cards and cards yet to be released in English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8638" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-05-08T09:31:54.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27635" CreationDate="2015-11-21T11:49:54.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Symbols are used to purchase cards wherever they come from (Dice or Cards on your CV).&#xA;As you can only use each symbol once per turn, the symbols from your cards are materialized using tokens which are just a convenient way to remember that you already planned to use the symbol from one of your cards and to avoid that you use it twice...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Arrows are explained on page 7 of the rulesbook and nothing mentions the source of the symbol there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1m4o.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/f1m4o.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A symbol is a symbol is a symbol ;-)&#xA;And you can swap them wherever they come from...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-21T11:49:54.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9275" CreationDate="2015-11-22T01:11:43.823" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sorcerers' conversion is in fact a special type of conquest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the Rules on page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn per opponent, your Sorcerers can conquer a Region by substituting one of your opponent's Active tokens with one of your own taken from the storage tray&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can use it whenever you want during the conquest phase. This can matter as converting a lone unit can give you access to interesting regions behind it with the rest of your army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T01:11:43.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25639" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:16:35.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a fan-made campaign (7 scenarios) which has been posted on BGG and has good reviews... I didn't tried it myself (yet) as I enjoy the randomness of picking a quest from the game at random and just going there for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was designed by Eric Laurent and is called &lt;em&gt;One Way Ticket&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;It requires &lt;em&gt;Swamp of Death&lt;/em&gt; as the party ends up in Jargono.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find the presentation by the designer and a link to all the files here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1341036/sob-complete-campaign-7-missions-new-tiles-new-car/page/1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1341036/sob-complete-campaign-7-missions-new-tiles-new-car/page/1&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T02:16:35.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27641" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27643" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:18:53.697" Score="1" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unknown's special ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Deceit: When given a Hermit Card, you may lie about your identity to trigger the card or to say &quot;nothing happens&quot;. You do not have to reveal your identity to use this Special Ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Unknown has revealed, can he still lie about the effect of a Hermit Card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="159" LastEditorUserId="159" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T16:26:36.640" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T16:26:36.640" Title="Does Unknown's special ability still work after revealing?" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25639" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:24:54.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;HexCrawl&lt;/em&gt; (by Sid Rain) looks more like an alternative way to play the game than a Campaign. It introduces a map where the party travels from mines to towns and back with various events taking place during travels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It includes a campaign system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A campaign system that takes your Heroes from start to finish and provides an actual end-goal for your posse to strive for. The plan is that a full campaign will encompass all 8 levels of a Hero and their development.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This probably requires more investment and a regularly meeting group but might fill the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a link to the BGG forum post where the designer hosts the project:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/16952329&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/16952329&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T02:24:54.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27641" CreationDate="2015-11-22T02:42:48.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our group I must admit we never thought of giving Hermit Cards to revealed characters. We took the description in the rules too seriously I suppose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hermit Cards help you to identify the characters belonging to the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This being said, a quick check confirms that the rules don't mention you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; give it to an unrevealed character. So the revealed &lt;em&gt;Unknown&lt;/em&gt; can be given a Hermit Card and he can lie to choose the effect he wants...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that only the player who gives the Unknown the Hermit Card will actually know that the Unknown lied as the rules also say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who drew a Hermit Card and the player who was given the Hermit Card are not allowed to tell the other players what was written on the card.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T02:42:48.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27646" CreationDate="2015-11-22T04:56:30.350" Score="1" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thee infect mechanic from Scars of Mirrodin has never seemed fair to me in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the game's win conditions have always been equally difficult to achieve: dealing 20 damage, milling an entire library down, or meeting the conditions for one of the other win cards, like Battle of Wits, etc. All of them take a fair amount of time, none are much faster than the others really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with infect, you only have to deal 10 damage. It renders the normal life totals pointless. I have trouble thinking of it as some special win-condition when all it really means is that &quot;dealing 10 damage is enough to win,&quot; and you can just ignore life totals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see how infect is considered fair or balanced. Can someone maybe give me some insight as to why it doesn't get more backlash from the community?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prior to Scars of Mirrodin, there were so few creatures with it that it was hard to achieve a victory that way. Scars of Mirrodin changed that, hence my present confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="13772" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T05:02:11.360" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T18:17:40.377" Title="How is infect a fair mechanic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-11-24T09:36:41.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27646" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27645" CreationDate="2015-11-22T05:40:58.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Infect isn't just &amp;quot;dealing 10 damage is enough to win&amp;quot;. It's &amp;quot;dealing 10 damage &lt;em&gt;with creatures with Infect&lt;/em&gt; is enough to win,&amp;quot; which means that you have to go all-in on Infect to do well with it. This means that Infect decks are very creature heavy and are very vulnerable to board wipes; a single &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Terminus&quot;&gt;Terminus&lt;/a&gt; can set you back several turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Infect creatures are also generally easier to remove than other creatures. A total of 4 Infect creatures have abilities that make them more difficult to remove: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skithiryx%2C%20the%20Blight%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Skithiryx, the Blight Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tel-Jilad%20Fallen&quot;&gt;Tel-Jilad Fallen&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Toxic%20Nim&quot;&gt;Toxic Nim&lt;/a&gt;. Every Infect creature can be removed with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20to%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;, and most can be killed with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, besides &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blighted%20Agent&quot;&gt;Blighted Agent&lt;/a&gt;, Infect creatures can be blocked like any other. My 2/2 Infect for 3, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Contagious%20Nim&quot;&gt;Contagious Nim&lt;/a&gt;, still trades with your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt;. And that extra mana can make the difference. By turn 4 or 5, the player not playing Infect should have creatures that are bigger than the player playing Infect. And attacking into a group of larger creatures still ends up with your creatures dead, even if they did have Infect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, cheap Infect creatures with cheap pump spells can get close to victory shockingly fast. But they can also be stopped by cheap removal and countermagic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightsteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; is a special case: it costs so much that Infect decks don't play it; instead it's mostly played as another win condition in decks that can cheat creatures onto the battlefield, and those also play other ridiculously powerful creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Griselbrand&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iona%2C%20Shield%20of%20Emeria&quot;&gt;Iona, Shield of Emeria&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="13772" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T18:17:40.377" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T18:17:40.377" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13644" CreationDate="2015-11-22T06:09:22.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules of the games in the booklet supersede those on the trap cards. We also misplayed this until I deeply read the booklet, running into the same problem of running out of treasure. &#xA;When a trap is played as a monster in a room, you get a treasure. When a trap is sprung as a monster in a chamber, you still get the effects of the trap, but not a treasure card. Here's another way to think about it. The only place in the game where you get to DRAW a treasure card is inside a room. If you get treasure in a chamber, it should only be because it was dropped there earlier by another player who failed to defeat a monster there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14367" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T06:09:22.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18717" CreationDate="2015-11-22T06:24:51.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've gone through a few sessions of this now, having just gotten the game for my daughter's birthday (full disclosure: I'm a &quot;real&quot; D&amp;amp;D player going back 30+ years now). We've not played enough iterations to really decide if one class is wholly underpowered, though so far we are tending to think it is the rogue. We have already made one house rule change involving them, and will likely make one more.&#xA;First, the idea that you are supposed to honestly remember all of the secret doors is a little tough for us, so we have already decided that you must roll each time you try to cross a secret door, unless forced through one because of combat. We are also toying with the idea of making the secret doors card move regular players to rogue level and rogues are the only ones who get auto-find. This would help balance those pesky cards a little bit.&#xA;The second change we are considering in the rogue area is to add a sneak ability. If a rogue enters a room or chamber with a monster and there is a door or passage on the other side, the rogue can sneak through and move past if they roll a 4+. If not, they must fight. This would improve their mobility a LOT and might compensate for their very weak combat some. Imagine this - they see a stronger character go down in a deeper level, and zip over there to attempt to claim the loot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside, I'm also liking the suggestion made to allow rogues to double wield swords. In the games we've played so far, rogues have a pretty hard time of it if anyone else decides to raid those level 1 rooms, and they definitely are in trouble going any deeper than level 1 without a magic sword. Given that they would already have a hard time trying to GET two swords, this doesn't seem like a common occurrence for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14367" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T06:24:51.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27649" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T06:33:02.677" Score="3" ViewCount="959" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're new to the game, and already ran across something that struck us as an issue. Here's the scenario: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wizard stops just shy of a room, fires in a spell that fails to kill the monster. He stays outside the room. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the next player's turn, he walks through the wizard and into the room to battle the monster (rules say heroes can pass through the same space, but not occupy it unless it's a chamber). Hero fights the monster, loses, but is not ejected from the room. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wizard's next turn comes. What can the wizard do now? The way the rules read, if he fires a spell into the room and kills the monster, he enters the room to loot, but the room is already occupied by the other hero, so the wizard is forbidden entry. Even worse, the wizard is still just outside the room. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if during the combat in the room, the hero who pushed past is forced out of the room? Technically, the wizard was already in the space just outside the door, and there is nowhere for the hero to retreat to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14367" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-01-29T08:53:32.157" LastActivityDate="2020-02-28T09:02:25.280" Title="Dungeon Board Game rules scenario" Tags="|dungeon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13652" CreationDate="2015-11-22T06:37:14.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've encountered this as well. I remember reading that you are supposed to retreat the way you came in. This is probably to prevent players from &quot;retreating&quot; their way through a chamber past a particularly nasty monster to get to the treasure rooms beyond. In the case of a forced entry into a chamber due to a trap sending you there, it doesn't make a lot of sense to retreat back up the slide that dumped you there. We play that if you are forced to retreat because you entered a chamber due to trap, you retreat randomly down one of the passages into the chamber, chosen by die roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14367" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T06:37:14.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2015-11-22T13:05:16.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;We wanted something more like a &quot;real&quot; draft, where there is blindness, but not as much randomness as in Winston.  So, our approach:  make two stacks of 42 cards (3 boosters), one for each player.  Each player draws 5 cards off the top and selects one, then puts the remaining 4 cards aside in a new pile.  Continue this until you have emptied the pile. In the last pile there will be fewer than 5 cards, so just take one of these cards as well.  Then give your &quot;discard&quot; pile to your opponent, and continue drafting with this new pile in the same fashion.  Repeat this until all cards are drafted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of drawing 5 cards at a time is arbitrary, but it worked well enough for us.  Additionally, you can choose to preserve the order of the cards (more like real draft, but less convenient because you have to put &quot;discards&quot; on the bottom of the stack). Or you can reverse the card order each time, or randomize each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found that this 2-player drafting method gives players more control over their decks than in Winston, while maintaining blindness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14368" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T13:05:16.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27652" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27668" CreationDate="2015-11-22T14:36:44.077" Score="4" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of cheat/bullshit with at least three players, what is the incentive for a player to challenge a claim when he/she does not stand to gain anything in winning the challenge, but risks taking the entire stack of cards if he loses the challenge?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only situation where I think it would make sense to challenge is the following: If someone just placed his/her last card down and I am the only one who has sufficient information to conclude that he/she is cheating, then it makes sense for me to challenge in order to prevent him/her from winning.  But apart from this situation, does it make sense to challenge at all? (Assuming we play be the rules on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheat_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Wikipedia&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, where play continues normally with the next player regardless of the outcome of the challenge)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14369" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T00:04:15.133" Title="Why should a player call &quot;cheat&quot; and risk taking the entire stack of cards?" Tags="|game-theory|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27653" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-22T18:09:50.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Useful links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.granna.pl/katalog-gier/0-wszystkie-gry/160-CV.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Website for the game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/143986/cv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG Entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:07:00.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:07:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27654" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-22T18:09:50.313" Score="0" Body="Short for &quot;Curriculum Vitae&quot;, a dice-rolling career/life-themed game." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:07:00.177" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:07:00.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27671" CreationDate="2015-11-22T18:50:33.560" Score="0" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could I get a comprehensive clarification of the rules surrounding mustering and supply limits in territories that have ports? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When mustering, all territories (whether land, port, or sea) must adhere to supply limits. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When mustering at a Castle/Stronghold territory with a port, units can be placed in either the land, the port, or adjacent sea territory. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding of these rules correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it seems is that a player could keep a single infantry on their Castle/Stronghold territory, and because they have &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; adjacent territories (the port, and the sea) they can muster into, it makes it possible for them continually muster every turn, using the special consolidate power token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2015-11-22T20:29:47.090" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T15:18:22.510" Title="Mustering in port territories" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-22T20:40:10.030" Score="2" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I played a few games of The Resistance with five others, and the Resistance won every single game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I've found this before, it simply seems too easy for the Resistance to form safe teams. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the six player game, there are just two spies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mission player requirements are &lt;strong&gt;2,3,4,3,4.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the six player game objectively easier for the Resistance? What strategy can the spies use to maximise their chance of success? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:56:52.513" Title="Is The Resistance conclusively easier for the Resistance in a six player game?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27652" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:52:55.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because if you're only ever going to call &quot;cheat&quot; when I play my last card, I'll cheat like crazy on every turn &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; than my last card and do everything in my power to make sure that I'm not cheating on my last card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:52:55.847" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27657" CreationDate="2015-11-22T21:56:52.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have found that the number of players does not matter but rather the players themselves. In a six player game, well in all games below 7 players, resistance members have to make perfect choices on missions 3 and 5. What that means is that the players with the spy role are doing something to tip off to everyone that they are spies which makes them easy to not put on a team. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the simple math for missions 3 and 5 you will find that the resistance has gathered a lot of information if they can keep picking perfect teams. With a resistance member as the team leader on the first pick they have a 60% chance of picking right (assuming they pick themselves first), 3 resistance 2 spies. Each pick they make lowers the odds pick 2 takes it to 50%, 2 resistance and 2 spies. Pick 3 takes it to 33%, 1 resistance and 2 spies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often each side wins will boil down to the play style of the group playing and how much unintended information they give out. Truth be said from my experience playing this at all player levels the spies should have the edge and win more often because they have perfect knowledge in the game and the resistance has flawed information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also are you playing with any of the expansions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-11-22T21:56:52.513" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27660" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27661" CreationDate="2015-11-22T22:31:26.010" Score="1" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;If dealer opens. second seat needs to be at least somewhat careful taking actions such as doubling or overcalling. That's because third seat may theoretically having &quot;everything&quot; (not held by first and second seats), leaving partner with nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if left hand opponent opens, partner passes, opponent's partner passes, then right hand opponent is limited, meaning that fourth seat can double or overcall light. That is, s/he can &quot;balance&quot; with a king or so less than in second seat by &quot;borrowing&quot; it from partner, who clearly has something.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Likewise, I was taught that a fourth seat person could open a major suit with about a &lt;em&gt;queen&lt;/em&gt; less than in the other seats, because both opponents (as well as partner) was limited. That is, while one needs something like (s)AQxxx (h)Qxx (d)xxx (c)Ax to open in the early seats, it would be ok to open with (s)AQxxx (h)xxx (d)xxx (c)Ax in fourth seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do most experts feel that way? And how would they feel about opening a junky five card major in fourth seat with 11 high card points, something like (s)97532 (h)KQx (d)Qxx (c)Ax?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T02:17:55.177" Title="Does a light fourth seat opening work on the same principle as fourth seat &quot;balancing?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27660" CreationDate="2015-11-22T23:21:43.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is critical when opening in Fourth Seat to make a plus on the hand - you have passed a simple opportunity to score zero, so should have a good reason to believe opponents cannot outbid you or set you. If holding less than full values you must have both length and strength in the Major suits.  This is an excellent (light) fourth-seat opening of 1S (even playing 5-card majors)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: KJT3&#xA;H: QT6&#xA;D: A842&#xA;C: 52&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this is a very poor (light) fourth-seat opening of 1D:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: 52&#xA;H: QT6&#xA;D: KJT3&#xA;C: A842&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to be playing some agreement such as Drury raises that allows partner to show limit-or-better support at the two-level, in case you are light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; - Further to @ruds' mention of Casino Count, in order to open  in Fourth Seat one should have a reason to believe that one has the best hand at the table. Otherwise, someone else's hand is better than yours, and you are no longer favoured to get a plus from opening. Holding length in the Majors, and especially Spades, is often the slight edge one is looking for to achieve this belief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T02:17:55.177" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T02:17:55.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27660" CreationDate="2015-11-23T00:20:57.603" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A very popular hand evaluation technique for fourth seat openers is &quot;Cassino count.&quot; This adds high card points and the number of spades. Typically the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.larryco.com/bridge-learning-center/detail/315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule of 15&lt;/a&gt; is used -- if your high card points plus your number of spades is 15 or higher, you may open in fourth seat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This reflects Pieter's point above -- you want to go plus, so you don't want your opponents to outbid you in the partscore battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T00:20:57.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27652" CreationDate="2015-11-23T08:25:25.603" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're correct in that it's usually better to let other people call cheaters out, since there's a personal risk but no personal reward. However, imagine the case where it's about to be my turn, there's a large stack on the table, and I have no option but to cheat. Here, it might be best for me to call &quot;cheat&quot; on the person who just played in order to clear the stack lest I be called out as a cheat after I play. If I'm right, now there's not much of a stack to pick up if I get called out, and if I'm wrong, well, I might have been picking up those cards anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T08:25:25.603" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27666" CreationDate="2015-11-23T11:47:13.690" Score="1" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can talents of the samurai be used after the attack overcame the samurai?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook doesn't specify anything about this at the talents and the only effects the overcome seems to have is that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Case 3: If the total is GREATER THAN your Kiai value, you are overcome by raiders: Immediately remove one village Barricade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and in the next round&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: If your Samurai meeple is already past your Kiai value (i.e. on the flame), then you MUST PASS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some talents it would make sense that it can still be used as they are passive looking (at least to me). For example if Gorobei is overcome, he should(?) still be able to ignore the penalty on a Raider with an even value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real, specific question is: after Kikuchiyo becomes overcome by an attack, can he still use his talent and choose to fight another opponent even though he is already overcome? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T22:31:17.030" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T22:31:17.030" Title="Talents after being overcome" Tags="|samurai-spirit|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27665" CreationDate="2015-11-23T13:09:58.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Antoine Bauza answered a question very similar to this one on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/17290330#17290330&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGame Geek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Question]1) After you have exceeded your Kiai value, but before you are obliged to pass on your next turn, can other players still pass on cards to you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Response]1) Sure ! (it's important )&#xA;When you exceeded your Kiaia Value, you have to brun immediately a barricade / farm. But you are force to tak ethe pass action on your next turn. So, a lot can happen before you're next turn (passing card, removing a card from your combat line). {&lt;em&gt;Sic&lt;/em&gt;}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The direct implication to this is that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just because you've exceeded your Kiai value, your turn does not immediately pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adding additional raider cards to a character who has exceeded his kiai value will not cause additional barricades to burn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The character is still &amp;quot;in play&amp;quot; until the beginning of his next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Kikuchiyo specifically, can take another raider, and either add it to his defense pile or his confrontation pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T13:25:17.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27649" CreationDate="2015-11-23T13:24:01.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The older &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.geekdo.com/geekfile_download.php?filetype=application%2Fpdf&amp;amp;filename=DUNGEON!.pdf&amp;amp;filecode=24h7dh83e&amp;amp;validationcode=0cf09ab622fd31a0c950cddc8e724d2c&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TSR version of the rules&lt;/a&gt; make this process a bit clearer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Die roll: 4-5-6; Light Wound!  Drop any 1  treasure card. Retreat back to the nearest empty corridor space. Lose one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T13:24:01.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27652" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:10:32.107" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can call &quot;cheat&quot; even when you aren't 100% positive someone is lying to keep the fear of being called out real.  Like @PhilipKendall said, if you are only going to call &quot;cheat&quot; when you can prove it or when you are at the last opportunity to keep someone from winning, there is never any fear of being called as long as you make relatively conservative plays.  And that doesn't make for a very interesting game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of playing cheat is mind games and taking some risks.  You have to evaluate your own risk-reward along with the risk-reward of other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say I hold two 3s and my two opponents each hold one 3.  I could very easily put down the two 3s and be perfectly safe.  I could also call three 3s and hope to get away with it.  Neither of my opponents can prove that I'm lying based on cards alone (note that I don't know this when I make the play, I need to evaluate the risk-reward of getting rid of an extra card vs. having to pick up the pile).  Is it worth it for them to call cheat?  Maybe.  Is it possible I actually have three 3s?  Yes.  Is it likely?  Maybe, depending on how the game has gone so far.  My opponents need to evaluate the risk-reward just like I did.  If there are only a few cards in the pile, the risk is fairly low and the reward is that they make me pick up cards.  The other reward is that it can make me more hesitant to lie.  Which slows me down and makes it easier to win.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if there are more cards to pick up?  Is it worth it to call cheat?  Maybe.  The likelihood of lying goes up as people start running out of cards and the pile of played cards gets bigger.  But the penalty for being wrong is much higher.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The risk-reward analysis gets even more interesting when you consider how close your opponent is to winning.  Which is worth more, getting your opponent with 5 cards to pick up 20 or getting the one with 15 to pick up 20?  Is it worth picking up 20 yourself if you are wrong?  How likely is it that the person with 5 cards is lying about their last play?  What about the guy with 15?  Same arguments apply to how close you are to winning and if it is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another potential reason to call cheat is to get cards.  I know this sounds crazy but bear with me for a second.  If you aren't doing well and you opponent is, having cards can make it really easy to call cheat on someone and give them cards.  And you can take someone from being on the cusp of victory to having as many cards as anyone else fairly quickly.  (From a risk-reward perspective, the risk is fairly low to me, since I'm probably going to lose anyway if I don't do something, but the pay out is huge if I can keep you from winning and give myself a second chance, either by calling you on a lie or making it impossible for you to lie in the future and play your last card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I also play a little bit of the agent of chaos role sometimes.  I will sometimes call cheat even if I'm not sure.  And it can keep my opponents honest, which is to their disadvantage.  It makes them think that they could get called any time.  So they are less likely to make risky plays and be very conservative.  And that helps me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T17:10:32.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27669" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27670" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:17:53.807" Score="6" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question regarding pushing other robots. Say we have the following scenario: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Robot A and B are facing each other. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A plays &quot;Move 3&quot; with priority 800&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;B plays &quot;move 2&quot; wity priority 700&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do the robots end up? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have played the situation as A wins over B, and B's movement is cancelled out. It seemed to make the most sense. But further reading of the rules says that priority only determines the order moves are carried out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So which is correct:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pushes B three squares&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A pushes B three squares and then B pushes A two squares. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14378" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T19:09:58.347" Title="Pushing robots and priority" Tags="|robo-rally|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27669" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:25:29.227" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;Option 2 is correct. You say it yourself, priority only controls what order the robots move in. There's nothing in the rules about cancelling a robot's move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 6 of the Wizards edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Priority&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The priority numbers on each Program card indicate a robot’s&#xA;priority for that register phase—how quickly it moves. Whenever&#xA;robots are likely to bump into each other, &lt;strong&gt;use the priority numbers&#xA;to determine which robot moves first&lt;/strong&gt;. A higher number means&#xA;faster movement, so a robot with a 200 card would move before&#xA;a robot with a 100 card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T19:09:58.347" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27656" CreationDate="2015-11-23T17:44:22.770" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that is correct. However remember that as soon as you have two or more ships in the same area (port or sea), they are considered an army and must adhere to supply limits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously if you muster into both the port and sea you're potentially blocking your port ship for being able to move out into the sea. That makes your castle/stronghold a ripe target for attack as if an enemy were to defeat that one footman, any boats in port would be replaced by an equal number of your enemy's ships (pg.25).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something else to note: The special Consolidate Power token &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; be placed on the castle/stronghold in order to muster. You are not allowed to muster by placing the special Consolidate Power token on the port space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T15:18:22.510" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T15:18:22.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27673" CreationDate="2015-11-23T22:33:57.200" Score="4" ViewCount="277" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game of Hanabi we discovered that a helpful technique was to ask the person, usually to the left what they planned to do on their turn (ie. playing or discarding a certain card), and then choose to give them information or not based on that information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this technique legal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T23:00:12.323" Title="Is a player allowed to announce his intentions for their next turn?" Tags="|hanabi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27672" CreationDate="2015-11-23T22:50:12.637" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of this will depend on your group and how you chose to look at the rules. Other than giving information about what is in another players hand there is nothing mentioned about players talking to each other. There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/886616/english-rules-translation#10670613&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;note&lt;/a&gt; in an English translation of the rules that I found that does somewhat address this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hanabi based on communication - and non-communication - between the Players. If one interprets the rules strictly then players may not, except for the announcements of the current player, talk to each other. Ultimately, each group should decide by its own measure&#xA;  what communication is permitted communication. Play so that you have fun! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will note some things that my friends do when we play this game all of which are done without the active player asking for the information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Inform the others what we know about our hand. This can be from what we have been told in the past and can in other peoples hands. For instance if I had a green five in my hand and was told I have a five and can account for all the other fives I would say I have a five and know the color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If we have no or limited knowledge of our hands we sometimes will say if you tell me nothing I will discard from a certain side of my hand. This is used as a reminder that I have gotten no information about my hand lately and am assuming I have nothing but garbage. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While some of those may be breaking the spirit of the game they do make it more enjoyable for the group we play in. It all depends on what your group wants to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-11-23T23:00:12.323" LastActivityDate="2015-11-23T23:00:12.323" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27674" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27675" CreationDate="2015-11-24T00:52:42.503" Score="5" ViewCount="6853" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course, there are some spell cards that allow you to look through your deck to find some sort of card, usually sorcery cards that let you find basic lands in your library or something and then shuffle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, what if I am in a situation where I seem to only be drawing cards that are too expensive in mana cost or I'm only pulling lands? Am I allowed to shuffle my library at any time, or do I have to deal with what I get or cast some kind of sorcery or instant that lets me find a card/cards then shuffle my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-24T01:10:11.170" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T06:15:43.093" Title="Are you allowed to shuffle your library at any time?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27674" CreationDate="2015-11-24T01:09:00.003" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't shuffle whenever you want; rule 401.2 explicitly handles this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;401.2. Each library must be kept in a single face-down pile. Players can’t look at or change the order of cards in a library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, if you could shuffle at will, it would make cards that let you shuffle like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=244313&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ponder&lt;/a&gt; pretty redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T06:15:43.093" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T06:15:43.093" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27677" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-24T02:08:35.047" Score="3" ViewCount="2099" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what are the chances of winning in both versions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;laying out the cards one by one&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;laying out the entire deck at the game start&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14380" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-11-15T07:46:41.840" LastActivityDate="2020-11-15T16:14:12.987" Title="What are the chances of winning Accordion Solitaire?" Tags="|solitaire|statistics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2015-11-24T03:48:13.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tolarian Community College did &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uciXA2tQ-Gw&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a fantastic review of MTG Cube Deck Boxes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultra Pro CUB3: 900 cards in 80 USD cardboard. Home use only. F&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grimoire: 75 USD plastic. Home use only. C-&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ultimate Guard Stack'n'Safe: 2x480 cards in 2x12.50 USD plastic. May need an elastic band.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aaron Cain: 125 USD* (prices vary) custom wood. A+&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14383" LastEditorUserId="2668" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T19:05:29.593" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T19:05:29.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27674" CreationDate="2015-11-24T04:24:16.657" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot shuffle your library at any time. Your opponent can force you to put &amp;quot;bad&amp;quot; cards on top of your library using spells such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Roil%20Spout&quot;&gt;Roil Spout&lt;/a&gt;, so it is strategically relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3619" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T16:11:34.210" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T16:11:34.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27680" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27681" CreationDate="2015-11-24T07:34:26.250" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;So say I have a creature in my graveyard in a 3-player game, and one of my opponents uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ink-Eyes%2C%20Servant%20of%20Oni&quot;&gt;Ink-Eyes, Servant of Oni&lt;/a&gt; to bring it back from the dead. That player then goes on to lose. Does my creature come back under my control, or go back to my graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T01:06:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T01:06:50.397" Title="If Ink-Eyes brings a creature back and then her owner loses in a multiplayer game, does the rezzed creature go to graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27680" CreationDate="2015-11-24T07:58:39.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It will be exiled. The card would go back under your control if there was a temporary effect granting your opponent the control of your creature, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Control&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;. This is not the case, so the object under your opponent control would be exiled (since it is not the object he owns and it doesn't leave the game). The ruling in question has an example that covers it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4a When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player&#xA;control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled&#xA;any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease&#xA;to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that&#xA;player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It&#xA;happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left&#xA;the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to&#xA;the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;: Alex casts Bribery, which reads, “Search target opponent’s&#xA;library for a creature card and put that card onto the battlefield&#xA;under your control. Then that player shuffles his or her library,”&#xA;targeting Bianca. Alex puts Serra Angel onto the battlefield from&#xA;Bianca’s library. If Bianca leaves the game, Serra Angel also leaves&#xA;the game. &lt;strong&gt;If, instead, Alex leaves the game, Serra Angel is exiled.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T07:58:39.697" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27682" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27652" CreationDate="2015-11-24T09:23:13.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This by no means the entire answer (the other parts have been mentioned by other people) but a very good reason to call &quot;Cheat&quot; is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's fun!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do play games to win, but I mainly play to have fun. Calling &quot;Cheat&quot; brings the element of risk, the excitement that you may win or lose, &lt;strong&gt;the fun&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T09:23:13.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28727" CreationDate="2015-11-24T09:34:09.597" Score="1" ViewCount="1265" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing Carrom I placed my strike and pocketed my C/m. Mistakenly, my finger touched my opponent's C/m. Do I play on, or is this a Foul?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14385" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T09:58:37.990" LastActivityDate="2017-07-27T17:08:04.930" Title="What happens if I pocket a C/m but accidentally touch a C/m on the table?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25192" CreationDate="2015-11-24T10:25:18.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes you can. But if your striker only touches opponent's carrommen,then there will be a foul.You need to touch atleast one of your carrommen or red&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14385" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T10:25:18.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27596" CreationDate="2015-11-24T14:44:34.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be a travel variant on a Go board. If you're not familiar with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go&lt;/a&gt;, it's an ancient game played by two players, usually played with white and black stones. While the standard size of a Go board is 19x19 lines, 13x13 is a common &quot;beginner&quot; variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main objection to this theory is the number of stones: you usually have enough to cover the whole board between the two players, so I would have expected 84 black pegs and 85 white ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10047" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T14:44:34.403" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27674" CreationDate="2015-11-24T15:26:15.047" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Absolutely not.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a general rule of thumb, unless the rules say you CAN do something at a specific time, you &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only shuffle your deck before you've started your game or when a specific card tells you you can.  As a side note - if it doesn't say &quot;&lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; when it talks about shuffling your deck, it's mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exact rule was already added, so I'll just comment a bit more explanation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are far too many scenarios where the ability to shuffle your deck at any time would be game-breaking.  It would also take various 'punishments' of cards meaningless (ex: &quot;Send a card to the bottom of your opponent's library&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T15:26:15.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27652" CreationDate="2015-11-24T18:14:59.340" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a game theory perspective, you'd have to analyze this in more concrete scenarios.  Yes, if someone says &quot;one ace&quot; on the first turn where everyone else has the same card holding and nobody happens to have three or four aces, it's a pretty silly risk to call them on it - which is why nobody &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; call them on it in that scenario.  (Although, if you have an ace already in your hand, it's not necessarily a risk at all - see later.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are several factors that influence when &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; should call a player's apparent bluff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, you need to calculate the apparent cost to you of calling that bluff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many cards will you acquire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are those &quot;useful&quot; cards, &quot;irrelevant&quot; cards, or &quot;harmful&quot; cards?  Useful cards are cards that fill a spot you know you'll need.  Irrelevant cards are cards that overlap cards already in your hand (which you don't plan to bluff with).  Harmful cards are cards that you wouldn't normally need in the sequence of things, so having them means you're less likely to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, you need to calculate the cost to you of &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; calling your opponent's bluff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How close to winning does the player appear to be (particularly, in relation to yourself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a strong player, or a weak player?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, you need to calculate the odds of the player bluffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the player have a lot of cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have they incorrectly called others' bluffs such that they would likely have cards of this number?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How frequently does this player bluff?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many of this card type do you have?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fourth, you need to calculate the odds of &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; players calling his bluff.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are there other players who are likely to have a lot of this card type?  What other players are likely to have as much information as you about this card type?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How close to winning are other players?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have a player who likes to call bluffs?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is this a stronger player who others are likely to call simply to prevent him/her from winning?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these factor into whether &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; should call them (and of course, in a perfect world they'd have the same considerations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be scenarios where the odds of them bluffing are high in your estimation, but aren't all that high in others'; and there will be scenarios where your personal incentive (cost-benefit analysis) will be different than others' such that you would choose to call the bluff while others wouldn't, even for the same information level.  If I'm in first and the second place player just put 3 of his 5 cards down, I have a huge incentive to call that bluff, compared to the other players (assuming I'm not going to win next round).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2015-11-24T18:14:59.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27674" CreationDate="2015-11-25T01:59:00.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot shuffle whenever you want. As other answers have already pointed out, rule 401.2 says that you are not allowed to reorder your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll need this definition later, so I'll quote it now. The rule defining shuffling is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Shuffle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;701.16a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To shuffle a library or a face-down pile of cards, randomize the cards within it so that no player knows their order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you could shuffle whenever you want, it generally wouldn't actually help. To be specific, say you have 40 cards left in your library, and you just shuffled (perhaps because you just activated &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Evolving%20Wilds&quot;&gt;Evolving Wilds&lt;/a&gt;). Now, you know &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; cards are in your library, but &lt;em&gt;by definition&lt;/em&gt; you don't know what order they're in. Then you draw a Forest, which you didn't want because you already have enough land. Now you still know what cards are in your library, because you can just subtract one Forest from the cards you knew were in there before. And you &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; don't know what order the cards are in. You know there &lt;em&gt;was&lt;/em&gt; a Forest on top, but that doesn't help, because that Forest isn't in your library anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine that you could shuffle your library right now. Obviously, the library now has the same cards as before. And again, by the definition of shuffling, you don't know what order the cards are in. And you should be able to see that this hasn't actually changed anything: both before and after shuffling, you know what cards are in the library, and both before and after shuffling, you don't know what order they're in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you might ask &amp;quot;But, if it doesn't change anything, why &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; I shuffle whenever I want?&amp;quot; The answer is that I was describing the general case, and there are some cases where it does matter because you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; know where some of the cards are. And then the ability to choose to shuffle would give you and advantage. [Jace, the Mind Sculptor]'s first ability would be completely useless if you could shuffle; your opponent could say &amp;quot;I leave that card on top&amp;quot; and then you could just say &amp;quot;Actually I'll just shuffle it away&amp;quot;. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brainstorm&quot;&gt;Brainstorm&lt;/a&gt; would be much better if you could just draw 3 cards and then shuffle your 2 worst cards back into your library, instead of being forced to draw them back for the next two turns. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=370684&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Garruk's Horde&lt;/a&gt; would be crazy powerful: you could just shuffle until you see the creature you want, and then cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T05:32:43.870" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T05:32:43.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27691" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27774" CreationDate="2015-11-25T08:54:25.190" Score="1" ViewCount="20602" Body="&lt;p&gt;When player A uses two colored rent. And player B uses &quot;just say no&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does player C still needs to pay to player A?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14399" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-11-25T12:12:14.617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:37:04.860" Title="When you use &quot;just say no&quot; to a &quot;rent&quot; do others player still need to pay?" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T14:47:55.903" Score="5" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, there are some times when you can assure yourself of x number of tricks (just enough for your contract) by making a safety play to guard against an adverse 4-1 distribution. If you don't make the safety play, and instead lead out three top cards, you will make an overtrick if the suit breaks 3-2, and go down one if it breaks 4-1 (because you can't get back to dummy to take the fifth trick. Most rubber players would make the safety play to maximize expected points, and most duplicate players would take the three tops to maximize expected tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you are a member of a &quot;traveling&quot; duplicate pair. As you approach a certain table, you notice declarers looking glum as they leave the table. From this, you infer that one or more declarers caught a bad break. Sure enough, when you sit down and declare, you see the road fork between making a safety play and laying down three top cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now it's unethical to peek at the score sheet to find out whether others made an overtrick, their contract, or down one. But is it unethical to make the safety play based on the body language of the two preceding declarers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose &lt;em&gt;someone else&lt;/em&gt; was the only declarer to make the safety play. The tournament director observes this and accuses him of cheating. He defends himself by saying that he was dissatisfied with his position in the standings, was in a &quot;top or bottom&quot; mode, and earned a top on this one hand. How would these claims be resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T17:56:44.453" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T20:44:48.130" Title="In duplicate, is it ethical to base your play on other people's body language?" Tags="|bridge|ethics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27691" CreationDate="2015-11-25T15:16:46.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I actually don't know the game but what I can see from &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopoly_Deal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; the card only collects rent from one player any way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Multi-colored rent cards: The function of this kind of cards is collect rent of any one of the colors of your properties &lt;strong&gt;from one rival&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T15:16:46.457" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27630" CreationDate="2015-11-25T15:50:00.007" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Considering that &quot;Steal a Keeper&quot; is an Action card, and it tells you to put another player's Keeper in front of you, I'd say &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt;. This card tells you to take any card and put it in your hand, which is also not considered in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6981" LastActivityDate="2015-11-25T15:50:00.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27695" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-25T22:34:53.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/158900/samurai-spirit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Samurai Spirit on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:05:16.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:05:16.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27696" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-25T22:34:53.647" Score="0" Body="Cooperative game with players as samurais defending a village from bandits." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:05:16.127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:05:16.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27697" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-11-25T22:41:34.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Useful links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/164167/eldritch-horror-mountains-madness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mountains of Madness on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/146021/eldritch-horror&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eldritch Horror on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:03:37.887" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:03:37.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27698" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-11-25T22:41:34.463" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Eldritch Horror." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:03:37.887" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:03:37.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27692" CreationDate="2015-11-25T23:40:47.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under no circumstances is one entitled to draw inferences from the actions of a partner or teammate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under certain circumstances one is entitled to draw inferences from the behavior of the opponents at one's table, on boards one is playing against them. As you note, deliberately peeking at an opponent's scores is not one of these cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, under no circumstances is one entitled to draw inferences from the behaviour of opponents at other tables, about boards not currently at your table. In this instance, there additionally seems to have been a conscious interpretation of forbidden knowledge, making the violation particularly egregious.  Other than for a novice, I would likely assess average-minus on the board in question, and a further procedural penalty of one additional full board if I felt there was sufficient evidence to establish a likelihood that the egregious violation occurred, other than from lack of knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I felt that the offender had lied in order to hide the deliberateness of the offense, that is blatant cheating. If sufficiently established I would immediately eject the player from the game, consequences to the movement not withstanding; impose a lengthy suspension from the club; and file a full incident report to the ACBL describing my actions and the evidence I used to reach the decision..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2020-10-08T20:44:48.130" LastActivityDate="2020-10-08T20:44:48.130" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-25T23:55:53.110" Score="3" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal to create a boggle version that has a different name, language and rules without being sued by hasbro? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14405" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T01:05:01.673" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T20:00:20.207" Title="Can I legally make a boggle variant?" Tags="|game-design|variants|boggle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-11-30T22:41:30.507" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27701" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27702" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:08:20.957" Score="2" ViewCount="1748" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would happen if you had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Entity&quot;&gt;Mirror Entity&lt;/a&gt; (or any card with changeling) in your graveyard and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; in play? Would Tarmogoyf's ability only count Mirror Entity as a shapeshifter type creature or a changeling type (every type)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastEditorUserId="5048" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T15:21:24.763" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T15:21:24.763" Title="How does Tarmogoyf interact with changelings?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27701" CreationDate="2015-11-26T02:26:59.087" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing special would happen, because Tarmogoyf doesn't care about the Changeling ability at all, or anything Mirror Entity does. Unless it's in a graveyard, in which case Tarmogoyf sees there's a Creature card in the graveyard, and becomes at least a 1/2 from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;'s ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tarmogoyf's power is equal to the number of &lt;strong&gt;card types&lt;/strong&gt; among cards in all graveyards and its toughness is equal to that number plus 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card types are clarified in a ruling on Tarmogoyf you can see in Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card types that can appear on cards in a graveyard are artifact, creature, enchantment, instant, land, planeswalker, sorcery, and tribal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... which means Tarmogoyf's ability can make it an 8/9 at most. For {1}{G}, that's still a pretty big deal. (That clarification also shows up in the reminder text of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136142&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf's original Future Sight printing&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply put, it doesn't care about creature types, or the &lt;em&gt;changeling&lt;/em&gt; ability. Creature cards don't count as &amp;quot;card types&amp;quot;, they are &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Subtype&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;subtypes&lt;/a&gt; — the part after the dash in the type line — and Tarmogoyf doesn't pay any attention to those at all. Every creature card just counts for one type: &lt;em&gt;Creature&lt;/em&gt;. (Unless, y'know, they're an &lt;em&gt;Enchantment Creature&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Artifact Creature&lt;/em&gt; or they're &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dryad%20Arbor&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt;, in which case they count for two types.) Also, Tarmogoyf only cares about cards in graveyards, while Mirror Entity's ability only affects creature permanents on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T05:30:30.890" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T05:30:30.890" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27700" CreationDate="2015-11-26T03:14:40.270" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copyright, trademarks, and patents are complicated subjects and if you are really concerned about this sort of thing you should consult an Intellectual Property attorney.  Or if you don't want to spend money on this problem I hope you're covered by fair use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T14:53:47.320" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T14:53:47.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27705" CreationDate="2015-11-26T03:45:32.697" Score="10" ViewCount="58249" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my commander would die and I opt to move it to the command zone instead of the graveyard, does it cause a &quot;when a creature dies&quot; ability trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389523&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fool's Demise&lt;/a&gt;. If my opponent puts that on my commander, and then does lethal damage to it, would they get my commander or could I put it in my command zone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd love any answer, but my playgroup needs an actual rule. So I would love a supporting rule citation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="56" LastEditorUserId="56" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T15:14:49.107" LastActivityDate="2024-03-05T14:35:01.567" Title="Do commanders &quot;die&quot; if they go to the command zone instead?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27704" CreationDate="2015-11-26T04:18:08.067" Score="22" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes, commanders can trigger “dies” triggers as they head to the command zone&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This new rules change was &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtgcommander.net/index.php/2020/06/07/june-7-announcement-on-dies-triggers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;announced on June 7, 2020&lt;/a&gt; and became active in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtgcommander.net/index.php/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Commander rules&lt;/a&gt; circa the release date of Core Set 2021. I'll explain the rules basis later, but to summarise the new rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your commander would be put into the graveyard or exile, you can opt to send it to the command zone. If you do, it will hit your graveyard or exile &lt;em&gt;and then&lt;/em&gt; be put into the command zone the next time state-based actions happen. Abilities will see that it died or got exiled, so your commander dying can trigger death triggers (its own or those of other cards).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your commander would be put into your hand or library, you can opt to send it to the command zone. If you do, it goes there &lt;em&gt;instead of&lt;/em&gt; your hand or library. It will never actually be put into your hand or library and cards will not see it enter those zones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElenda%2c%20the%20Dusk%20Rose%5d&quot;&gt;Elenda, the Dusk Rose&lt;/a&gt; is your commander and dies, you can send her to the command zone, and her death trigger will still go on the stack to give you Vampire tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Prophecy%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Prophecy&lt;/a&gt; will see your commander die, even if you send your commander to the command zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=174876&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kresh the Bloodbraided&lt;/a&gt; will see peoples' commanders die and will get +1/+1 counters equal to the power of that commander as it last existed on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAzorius%20Aethermage%5d&quot;&gt;Azorius Aethermage&lt;/a&gt; &lt;em&gt;will not&lt;/em&gt; see your commander return to your hand if you opt to send your commander to the command zone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your commander dies and you send it to the command zone, many “dies” triggers that expect to see it in the graveyard will lose track of it. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDread%20Slaver%5d&quot;&gt;Dread Slaver&lt;/a&gt; can't return a commander to the battlefield it killed if the commander's owners sent it to the command zone. This is because the commander is no longer in the graveyard, and Dread Slaver can't return creatures that are no longer there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you're only given the option to move your commander out of the graveyard/exile to the command zone &lt;strong&gt;once&lt;/strong&gt;—the very next time state-based actions are checked. In simple terms, this will be immediately after the spell/ability that put them there resolves, or if they died from combat damage, immediately after things die from combat. In both cases, you'll do this before any triggered abilities go on the stack and before anyone has any opportunity to cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't move your commander to the command zone then, they'll be stuck where they are until you find another way to move them. You won't have indefinite permission to move them out from then onwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules didn't always work this way. Prior to this date, if you wanted to send a commander to the command zone instead of graveyard or exile, it would never reach graveyard or exile first and nothing would see it die or get exiled. The rules for putting a commander into its owner's hand/library haven't changed though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What's the rules basis for it working this way?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A commander being sent to your graveyard or exile is now handled by &lt;strong&gt;a state-based action&lt;/strong&gt; instead of a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new state-based action is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a commander is in a graveyard or in exile and that card was put into that zone since the last time state-based actions were checked, its owner may put it into the command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means if your commander dies, you put it into the graveyard as normal. The next time state-based actions are checked, you can move it to the command zone. This state-based action will take place before any triggers go on the stack as a result of your commander dying. But those triggered abilities have already been triggered, and will still go on the stack the next time they have a chance to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your commander heading to your hand or library is still handled as a replacement effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a commander would be put into its owner’s hand or library from anywhere, its owner may put it into the command zone instead. This replacement effect may apply more than once to the same event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRescue%5d&quot;&gt;Rescue&lt;/a&gt; on your commander and choose to send them to the command zone, then because this is a replacement effect, Rescue functionally reads “Put target permanent you control into the command zone” — the “return to your hand” event is replaced and never happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those interested, you can view the Commander rules both before and after the change on the Wayback machine: &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20200618155207/https://mtgcommander.net/index.php/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;its content before this change was archived on June 18&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20200818085421/https://mtgcommander.net/index.php/rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;its content &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; the change was archived on August 18&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-08-18T08:59:28.170" LastActivityDate="2020-08-18T08:59:28.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27708" CreationDate="2015-11-26T11:59:32.953" Score="7" ViewCount="2694" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know the Commander replacement effect allows you to move your Commander to the Command Zone if it would be exiled or put into its owner's hand, graveyard or library from anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is if you flicker (exile and return) your commander with the likes of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Venser%2C%20the%20Sojourner&quot;&gt;Venser, the Sojourner&lt;/a&gt; (without sending it to the command zone then so it returns at the end step) and your opponent casts a spell to Exile anything that would enter (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hallowed%20Moonlight&quot;&gt;Hallowed Moonlight&lt;/a&gt;), does that count as your Commander moving from Exile to Exile, thus allowing you to apply the replacement effect, or would your Commander be stuck in exile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Figured it out and answered below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastEditorUserId="8434" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T13:20:49.720" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T13:34:56.920" Title="Does a card moving from Exile to Exile count as being moved?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27706" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:20:00.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answering my own question here, just figured it out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 400.8 says:&#xA;If an object in the exile zone is exiled, it doesn't change zones, but it becomes a new object that has just been exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I seems this does give the player the chance to send their Commander to the Command Zone as a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T13:20:00.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27706" CreationDate="2015-11-26T13:22:41.997" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hallowed Moonlight instructs you to exile. This is what the replacement effect in question replaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.11. If a commander would be exiled from anywhere or put into its owner’s hand, graveyard, or library from anywhere, its owner may put it into the command zone instead. This replacement effect may apply more than once to the same event. This is an exception to rule 614.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you may indeed return the Commander to the Command zone, even if the instruction would otherwise have done nothing at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As confirmation, 406.7 does presume than an exiled object can be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;406.7. If an object in the exile zone becomes exiled, it doesn’t change zones, but it becomes a new object that has just been exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-11-26T13:34:56.920" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T13:34:56.920" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-26T17:56:17.553" Score="2" ViewCount="239" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sometimes, if a player falls behind in a duplicate tournament, he will try to alter his standing by doing things that the &quot;crowd&quot; would not (e.g. making safety plays), getting a top score if he is right, and a  bottom score if he is wrong. This is unusual behavior, because he is really playing &quot;double or nothing.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge is a partnership game, and partners are supposed to agree on things. So should one consult with partner about &quot;risking a limb to save a life&quot; in this manner during play? On the hand, if one is doing certain other things such as &quot;psyching,&quot; even &lt;em&gt;partner&lt;/em&gt; isn't supposed to be on the secret. So is this a &quot;consultation&quot; or a &quot;psyching&quot; situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is it best to consult with partner &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the tournament (but not during) about when to play for &quot;top or bottom.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T23:57:02.327" Title="If you decide to play for &quot;top or bottom&quot; in duplicate, are you supposed to consult with partner?" Tags="|bridge|ethics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27710" CreationDate="2015-11-26T23:49:18.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's neither - it's simply terrible bridge. Good bridge is to make those choices during the play instead of during the bidding, when one actually has enough information to make a sensible risk assessment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, you are talking about a change in partnership bidding style - this is simply not allowed during a session, and the meaning of a call is not allowed to vary depending on which partner makes it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 40 A - Players' Systemic Agreements&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;strong&gt;my emphasis&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Information conveyed to partner through such understandings must arise from the calls, plays, and conditions of the &lt;strong&gt;current deal&lt;/strong&gt;. Each player is entitled to take into account the legal auction and, subject to any exclusions in these Laws, the cards he has seen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 40 B - Special Partnership Understandings&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1(b)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; Whether explicit or implicit, an agreement between partners is a partnership understanding. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2 (a)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;... the meaning of a call or play shall not alter by reference to the member of the partnership by whom it is made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember, the opponents don't know whether you are having a good, bad, or indifferent game; but partner does. To make decisions based on that information, which partner is privy to but the opponents not, is blatantly violating the requirement that opponents have a right to full disclosure of your partnership agreements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if one feels compelled to take a flyer late in a session, one should do it as Declarer when there is no issue of Partnership Agreement. Adopt a second best line of play and cross your fingers. Play for the finesse missing Qxxx, or the drop missing Qxxxx, and see if it works. If one wants to be an improving player, one has to play like one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-26T23:57:02.327" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27721" CreationDate="2015-11-27T00:30:37.117" Score="0" ViewCount="2188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clearly ports as a game concept are required as a way of mustering ships, but my question is what their value for being a territory in themselves is, as opposed to simply allowing the player to muster into the adjacent sea territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I understand it, any territory that has port, can muster ships either in to the port, or into the adjacent sea territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the ships are in the port:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They can't support, raid, or consolidate.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The port can't be attacked, only the land territory can be. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The can't help defend if the land territory is being used. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the only reason ports exist as a territory at all, is for the scenario where the adjacent sea territory is already occupied by another player. The port territory then allows a place for the port owner to muster into, and then on the following turn drive that other player out of the sea territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right in understanding that this is the sole useful purpose for ports? Why else would you elect to put ships in ports?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2015-11-27T01:18:27.503" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T09:59:13.457" Title="What's the point of having ports as a territory?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27714" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29827" CreationDate="2015-11-27T01:49:41.970" Score="2" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I buy Pension, which costs two bad luck symbols, do I still suffer misfortune because I initially rolled 3 bad luck symbols? The rules state that you select cards as step 2 and then resolve bad luck as step 3. It says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;for every 3 bad luck symbols which a player has from dice and tokens, the player suffers misfortune&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does he still &quot;have&quot; them when he's spent them to select the cards in step two?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T04:10:43.450" Title="Do I lose a card if I roll 3 bad luck symbols and spend some of them?" Tags="|cv|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-27T05:00:46.703" Score="3" ViewCount="13412" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Phase 10, is it legal to lay out your phase and play out your hand (placing remaining single card in the discard pile) in the first round, before all players have had a chance to play in that round (i.e. pick up a card and discard)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14411" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-02-25T03:45:20.873" LastActivityDate="2020-02-25T03:45:20.873" Title="In Phase 10, can you play out your hand before all players has played a turn?" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27717" CreationDate="2015-11-27T05:45:38.683" Score="1" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question I have is for a hypothetical situation where even though rules state(if I read correctly) that activated abilities are in their own unique stack to their owner. Player A plays a field wipe card like say Whelming Wave or Evacuation—can player B tap their creatures in response to the target player to deal damage and kill them before either card resolves? Or, is it simultaneous or does the wipe go off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new, so I'm curious. The opposing player can really go &quot;In response to that&quot; and make it meaningless? It's fine if it's a rule, but it defeats the purpose of strategic play, of disabling such things because they didn't do it first. If it's considered on top like a counter to my card, it makes sense, but if the stack is supposed to be unique, outside, not on top of an already resolving card, then I'm not sure what to think by the way it reads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14412" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T19:23:35.227" Title="Magic: The Gathering Sorcery vs Activated Abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27716" CreationDate="2015-11-27T06:02:22.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one stack, that all spells and abilities use (with the exception of special actions and mana abilities). In your specific example, player A casts Whelming Wave, and once they finish casting it, it's on the stack. Then, player B activates their creature's ability &quot;in response&quot; to the Whelming Wave, meaning &quot;while the Whelming Wave is on the stack&quot;. That ability goes on the stack on top of the Whelming Wave. Then the ability resolves, and the ability does whatever it does. Finally, the Whelming Wave resolves, and, the creatures are returned to their owners' hands. If, however, the resolving ability killed player A, the Whelming Wave would immediately leave the game with its controller, and it would never resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can happen because abilities can be activated at instant speed; in this case, they can be activated in response to other spells or abilities. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Abilities&quot;&gt;Rule 112.3b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]” &lt;strong&gt;A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority.&lt;/strong&gt; Doing so puts it on the stack, where it remains until it’s countered, it resolves, or it otherwise leaves the stack. See rule 602, “Activating Activated Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notable exceptions are the Equip and Outlast abilities, which can only be activated at sorcery speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-11-27T19:23:35.227" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T19:23:35.227" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27718" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-27T06:15:08.050" Score="2" ViewCount="2234" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since most (or all) mysteries require waiting until the end of the mythos phase to officially complete them, is there no point to continuing the game once you flip the final mythos card and still haven't solved the first 3 mysteries? The exception to giving up the moment the final mythos is flipped seems to be when the ancient one awakens and you stand a chance to defeat him in that final round after the last mythos is flipped (since defeating the ancient one appears to end the game immediately in the investigators' favor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have this all correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: from the Eldritch faq under &lt;strong&gt;Ancient Ones &amp;amp; Mysteries&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q. Do effects that “advance the active Mystery” or “solve the active Mystery” affect the Final Mystery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. No. The Final Mystery is not a Mystery card nor is it considered the active Mystery. As such, effects that advance or solve the active Mystery do not affect the Final Mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to support the treatment of Final Mysteries as a different entity as normal Mysteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T18:32:24.270" Title="Once the last mythos card is flipped, is there no point to continuing the game?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27719" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13707" CreationDate="2015-11-27T06:49:21.910" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Reaper Kings' notes, it can be paid for with one of each color, or any combination up to 10 colorless. It does include all 5 symbols so therefore you can add 1 mana of each color in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14413" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T06:49:21.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27728" CreationDate="2015-11-27T08:57:08.537" Score="0" ViewCount="143" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the situation where your armies are at supply limit, and you capture a territory that has ships in port, do you have to immediately disband armies, or you do you get to keep them until next supply round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IMO it seems you should be allowed to keep them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T01:38:19.253" Title="Do supply limits apply if you capture ships at a port?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27713" CreationDate="2015-11-27T09:59:13.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you deduced, the huge advantage is that it gives you a safe harbour to muster ships into, which is invaluable when all adjacent sea areas are occupied. Relatedly, they also give your ships a safe place to retreat to when your sea areas are attacked, so you don't risk losing routed ships that you would presumably prefer to keep in order to take them &lt;em&gt;back&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming you're playing AGoT 2nd Edition here, because in the 1st Edition (unexpansioned), there &lt;em&gt;were&lt;/em&gt; no ports, and that became a very real problem in a number of the games that I played, and a huge strategic concern in the rest: Losing control of your sea territories could be devastating, &lt;em&gt;especially&lt;/em&gt; for island nations such as Pyke or Dragonstone. Even for cities on the continent, the power of ships &amp;mdash; from support to ship-transport (and obviously preventing your opponents from the same) &amp;mdash; was a major consideration, and if you were by bad luck or worse strategy driven out of the sea entirely and then blocked, you were in very real trouble that could be &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; difficult if not &lt;em&gt;impossible&lt;/em&gt; to recover from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The introduction of ports with the Clash of Kings expansion (and its default inclusion in the second edition) was, in my opinion, the most important single upgrade to the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what else you can and cannot do in a port, your list is somewhat misleading (&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/30/4f/304f72e3-4fe4-4f91-bfbe-75133161b092/va65_agot2_rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see page 25 of the rules&lt;/a&gt;): Ships in port &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; support and raid, but only on the adjacent sea area. Even consolidating isn't off the table entirely, it's merely contingent on the adjacent sea area not being under enemy control. Not to mention that your ships can do all this from a territory that's safe from direct attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even if they're not quite as useful as a ship that's actually, y'know, out to sea, they're not really all that useless either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T09:59:13.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27718" CreationDate="2015-11-27T11:55:32.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Solving any mystery happens at the end of the Mythos phase. Let's say you have only one card left only two things can happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;have solved&lt;/em&gt; the final mystery, then you have to survive that Mythos card event.  If you do, you win the game.  If not, you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;have not solved&lt;/em&gt; the final mystery, then you have lost the game. There is no point in doing the last round as you cannot draw a new mythos card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T11:55:32.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27716" CreationDate="2015-11-27T12:12:14.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I have is for a hypothetical situation where even though&#xA;rules state(if I read correctly) that activated abilities are in their&#xA;own unique stack to their owner. Player A plays a field wipe card like&#xA;say Whelming Wave or Evacuation—can player B tap their creatures in&#xA;response to the target player to deal damage and kill them before&#xA;either card resolves? Or, is it simultaneous or does the wipe go off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&#xA;If a player looses the game all his permanents are exiled and none of his spells that may still be on the stack resolves. I don't know if it can really matter in 1v1 games but in multiplayer games it does matter and the multiplayer parts of the rules gives the following information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4. Unlike two-player games, multiplayer games can continue after one or more players have left the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;800.4a When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player&#xA;control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled&#xA;any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease&#xA;to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that&#xA;player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It&#xA;happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left&#xA;the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to&#xA;the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T12:12:14.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27704" CreationDate="2015-11-27T12:18:51.327" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The word dies has a very specific meaning in mtg.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dies used to be a keyword action in Magic similar to &quot;destroy&quot; and was&#xA;  reintroduced in Magic 2012 to replace the phrase &quot;is put into a&#xA;  graveyard from the battlefield&quot;. &quot;Dies&quot; used to be a slang term for&#xA;  this occurrence before and is now officially used to signify triggers.&#xA;  It is exclusive to creatures while other card types still use the old&#xA;  phrasing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there is quiet a bit of slang usage of the term most of the slang usage out of a rules perspective is used incorrectly. There is a host of ways a creature can leave the battlefield and not die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things like exile, bounce and tuck effect will all remove the creature without it &quot;die-ing&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Dies&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SOURCE:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T12:18:51.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25485" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:00:52.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is a bit old but I think I have an answer to it (sort of).  The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;After a player has performed one action, he must re-roll all dice used for this action.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's room for interpretation but I'd say that you could pass a die you didn't use for the escape action and they could use the face value.  However, the rules pretty much state that you can't pass a key you used to escape to someone such that they can use it as a key to escape.  As per the wording in the rulebook under the escape action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt; Each player must roll the required number of key icons by himself!&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording that 'This adventurer may use the die immediately' also seems to suggest the face value passed can be used for an action but I wonder if that is a case of slightly imprecise wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I strongly suspect the intent of the rules is that the passed die must be rolled before its face value can be used but they don't explicitly state that or the opposite, except for the case of keys in an escape action, which seems fairly clear to me.  Whenever I've played the game it has always been considered a new die that you must roll in order to use it and that is the simplest interpretation of the rules, in my opinion, and how I am likely to always play it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the issue is a minor one that is best to house rule as you see fit but I definitely wouldn't allow people to pass keys they rolled for an escape action for others to use as a key, that definitely seems wrong to me and would reduce the tension at the end of the game too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14417" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T15:00:52.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27715" CreationDate="2015-11-27T15:54:41.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course it is.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There's no rule limiting when you can go out.  Play your phase, empty your hand, round over.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nice hand, BTW.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T15:54:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27727" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-27T18:03:39.970" Score="6" ViewCount="18560" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Sorry, can I move a pawn that is right outside my start, then pick a move backward 4 spaces card to right outside my safety zone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14418" LastActivityDate="2022-07-14T23:37:46.247" Title="Can you move backwards 4 spaces right outside of the safety zone?" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27720" CreationDate="2015-11-27T18:27:43.940" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you are not allowed to keep them if you are over your supply limit. From page 25:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Taking Control of Enemy Ports&lt;/strong&gt; - If the land area connected to a Port is successfully attacked and taken control of by another player, that player may immediately replace any enemy Ship units in the Port with an equal number of his own available Ship units (or as many Ship units as he has available, he desires, &lt;strong&gt;or is allowed by supply limits&lt;/strong&gt;). &lt;strong&gt;Excess enemy ships are simply removed from the board.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastEditorUserId="1209" LastEditDate="2015-11-28T01:38:19.253" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T01:38:19.253" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27718" CreationDate="2015-11-27T18:32:24.270" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Since most (or all) mysteries require waiting until the end of the mythos phase to officially complete them, is there no point to continuing the game once you flip the final mythos card and still haven't solved the first 3 mysteries?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In theory this is covered by the Reference Guide under &lt;em&gt;Winning/Losing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the official errata explains this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a Mythos card cannot be drawn during the Mythos Phase, the Mythos Phase ends. Then, if investigators have not won the game, investigators lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what happens is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mythos phase skips right to the end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this moment a Mystery card may say &quot;At the end of the Mythos Phase, if [something], solve this Mystery&quot;. If this was the last mystery, the Ancient One sheet will usually say that you win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anyway, the rules say that you lose, because you had no Mythos Card to draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;BUT the rules also say that if you win and lose at the same time, you win. (again &lt;em&gt;Winning/Losing&lt;/em&gt; in the Reference Guide)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if that was your last mystery, and you solved it, then you win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for beating the Ancient One: Yes, if a game component says you win, then you win. That's the actual rule (&lt;em&gt;Winning/Losing&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Waiting until the end of Mythos Phase to win, is not a rule - it's written separately on each Ancient One's sheet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T18:32:24.270" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27570" CreationDate="2015-11-27T18:55:59.993" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you choose to gain the bonus, then you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; add 1 success for any 6 rolled (after the rerolls, if applicable) and substract 1 success for any 1 rolled (after the rerolls, if applicable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the bonus itself isn't special. As always, you apply the highest available bonus. If it's not the bonus provided by the Blunderbuss, that doesn't affect the other ability in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice to gain the bonus activates the other ability, not the fact of applying the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card could be as well written like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When resolving a Combat Encounter, you may gain +2 Strength. If you do &lt;strong&gt;gain the bonus&lt;/strong&gt;, each 6 you roll when resolving a etc etc&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit:&#xA;I have asked Nikki Valens - Eldritch Horror's designer, for an answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it is, with emphasis added in the most relevant part:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The blunderbuss has a potencial negative effect in that rolling 1’s will negate successes. It may be that an investigator does not wish to use this effect. For this reason, the bonus and the other effect are tied to an option on the investigator’s part. &lt;em&gt;The investigator may choose to both gain the bonus and the other effects (6’s are two success and 1’s negates successes).&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Even if the investigator applies a higher bonus from another effect, the 6’s and 1’s will still be affected.&lt;/strong&gt; Please note however, the choice to use the effects of the blunderbuss must be made before dice are rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T08:38:46.150" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T08:38:46.150" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27731" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25130" CreationDate="2015-11-27T19:01:24.053" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 'current toughness' and 'max toughness' are the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage done doesn't reduce the monster toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T19:01:24.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24999" CreationDate="2015-11-27T19:07:06.023" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Should these components be returned to the box in that case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the rules: No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By convenience: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are absolutely no effects that would allow you to gain either of these cards without the Antarctica board. Whether you leave these in or take them out, it changes absolutely nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(This is not necessarily the case for some other Antarctica-related cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2015-11-27T19:07:06.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27727" CreationDate="2015-11-28T00:07:17.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, for sure, that's the best!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6963" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T00:07:17.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T01:12:01.400" Score="7" ViewCount="12210" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you tell the rarity level (common, uncommon, rare) of old magic cards? (Alpha, beta, unlimited, revised)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14419" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T06:17:50.587" Title="How to tell rarity of old magic cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27734" CreationDate="2015-11-28T01:19:07.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Properly identify it to a set, per the copyright, color condition, bevel, etc &amp;mdash; instructions on that can be found in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5120/14175/&quot;&gt;How can I tell the difference between early Magic: The Gathering card editions?&lt;/a&gt; . Then reference a set list.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T05:49:12.810" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27739" CreationDate="2015-11-28T05:31:30.070" Score="8" ViewCount="5280" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any sites online that will allow me to practice&#xA;a) submitting orders accurately.&#xA;b) allow me to run through attack scenarios online, to see how they end up going?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13714" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T15:04:12.927" Title="Diplomacy solo practice site" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27734" CreationDate="2015-11-28T06:17:50.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rarity of some sets cannot be determined only using the cards themselves. Early in Magic's history, it was intended to be part of the &quot;experience&quot; to let the market determine what was rare, and to let rares be surprises.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Over time, it became clear that players wanted more feedback, and the rarity was added to the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your only hope now is to use an external resource. The canonical resource for all cards is the gatherer at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt; which you can use to filter by individual cards, sets, rarity levels, and so forth. Keep in mind that searching for a card at a given rarity might yield strange results if that card was later released at a different rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T06:17:50.587" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27738" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-28T07:08:42.820" Score="-2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you get to retrieve the power token? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T17:31:11.077" Title="What happens if you move into a territory of your own that has a power token on it? What about territory with someone else's?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-01T16:11:17.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27736" CreationDate="2015-11-28T15:04:12.927" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the online Diplomacy playing site &lt;a href=&quot;http://backstabbr.com&quot;&gt;Backstabbr&lt;/a&gt; has a &quot;sandbox&quot; feature that does that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is perfect to go through attack scenarios and see how they end up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For practicing submitting orders, you enter orders by clicking on the map, and see how they would be written by hand. You don't submit textual orders. I guess you could write them down by hand first, and see whether the generated order is the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T15:04:12.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27738" CreationDate="2015-11-28T17:31:11.077" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you move into a territory that contains your own power token, you simply leave the power token there. That way, when you again exit the territory, it already has your power token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you move into a territory that contains a power token of someone else, that power token gets discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5168" LastActivityDate="2015-11-28T17:31:11.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27778" CreationDate="2015-11-29T12:16:55.457" Score="1" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;For instance, the Illusionist has an ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target unfortified enemy does not attack this combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean it doesn't deal damage, or that it does not participate at all in combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE: Can I still kill this unit even though it isn't attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T22:55:13.897" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T22:55:13.897" Title="What does it mean when you prevent a unit from attacking?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T16:43:23.213" Score="3" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have been playing the wizard for some time, but it looks like the wizard has a lot of challenges: The wizard cannot do well unless it makes it to levels 5 or 6. Having said that, one alternative is to blow the secret door on the way to the levels. Otherwise, it has to travel till it reaches a chamber on level 4, and then tele-porting to 5, then level 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both ways typically take a up (on an average) much longer time, then by the time the wizard gathers the treasure, it is usually too late.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is a quick opening strategy for the wizard which at least lets the wizard start at nearly the same time as the others?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3734" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-11-29T19:51:45.030" LastActivityDate="2022-05-16T16:05:55.647" Title="Dungeon! Quick opening strategy for wizard" Tags="|dungeon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27744" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27745" CreationDate="2015-11-29T18:30:22.583" Score="8" ViewCount="7929" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we had a blue city with one black disease cube due to an outbreak and we pull that blue city card during epidemic infection phase, is it an outbreak? &#xA;We thought that 3 was the max #of cubes one city can have (even if they are of different colors), but I just read one of the thread here that mentioned a city with 2 red cubes and 2 black cubes, total of 4 cubes in one city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14430" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T16:41:26.900" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T16:41:26.900" Title="Different color cubes in one city" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27744" CreationDate="2015-11-29T19:17:44.280" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;An outbreak only occurs due to cubes of a single color:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the city already has 3 cubes &lt;strong&gt;of this color&lt;/strong&gt;, do not place a 4th cube. Instead, an outbreak of this disease occurs in the city (see Outbreaks below). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And therefore a city can have up to three cubes of each color, not just three cubes overall:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As a result of outbreaks, a city may have disease cubes of multiple colors on it; up to 3 cubes of each color. This does not affect infections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T19:17:44.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27747" CreationDate="2015-11-29T20:36:50.807" Score="6" ViewCount="1616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to design custom laser-cut boxes to hold my Dominion sets, and I need to calculate how big a box is needed for each expansion. I can easily get the card dimensions online for height and width (91mm x 59mm), but if I'm going to put 500 cards in a box, I need to know how thick the stack will be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't seem to find dimensions on the thickness of a stack. Does anyone know?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5742" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T21:07:17.507" Title="How thick are Dominion cards?" Tags="|dominion|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27746" CreationDate="2015-11-29T21:07:17.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just did a measurement of my fairly well played dominion cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When allowed to float up, a stack of 50 cards is 23/32 of an inch tall. I tried different combinations to account for imperfections and came to this number multiple times in various trials.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When compressed with a gentle hand to maximum compression, they compress to 21/32 of an inch for 50 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus if you were to have a box holding 500 cards I would expect them to be at absolute minimum 210/32 of an inch, or 6 9/16 inches. If we allow for comfortable float compression that would take us to 7 3/16 of an inch. Since you'll want at least some wiggle room, I would suggest making your &lt;strong&gt;500 card box of dominion 7 inches long&lt;/strong&gt;. Keeping in mind that 500 cards is 50 types, you may want to calculate extra room for things like placeholders, extra cards, separators, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T21:07:17.507" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1258" CreationDate="2015-11-29T22:03:37.800" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a Phase 10 game on facebook but you have to wait for your energy to fill up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14432" LastActivityDate="2015-11-29T22:03:37.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T22:09:02.983" Score="3" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;When an investigator is defeated after the ancient one awakens, that player is eliminated. What if the investigator is defeated and the ancient one awakens before the end of the mythos phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ancient one is awake when the investigator would be replaced, but wasn't awake when the investigator was defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our session, the defeat of the investigator caused the awakening. My reading of the rules is that the player is not eliminated as a result of this. Is there a documentation implying otherwise?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T12:20:38.820" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T12:20:38.820" Title="If the ancient one awakens after an investigator dies in the mythos phase, does the player draw a new investigator?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-29T22:33:28.490" Score="3" ViewCount="1669" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I just bought One Night ultimate werewolf and I am about to play it for the first time in about 2 hours but I have a few questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I know that in the night, you do the action of whatever was your card at the start of the game, regardless of if that card was switched. But what about the Hunter? So if I start with the hunter, but later on it gets switched and I don't know that. At the end of the game I die, can I still point at someone that also dies? Or do I actually need to have the hunter card. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Likewise if someone dies and figures out they have the hunter card, are they allowed to use the hunter power?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a doppelganger copies the hunter power, how does she prove that the hunter was the card that she looked at? I don't think my friend group would cheat but I also don't like having the option for someone to lie outside of the game content (lieing inside the game is of course great).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me know if that didn't make sense. I have searched for these answers but can't seem to find them so it must be something simple that I am overlooking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14433" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T09:24:42.843" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T20:06:26.540" Title="One Night ultimate werewolf Hunter Question" Tags="|one-night-werewolf|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27750" CreationDate="2015-11-29T23:12:41.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For voting, it matters who has the hunter when voting, not who started with it. What you started with only matters for what you do during the night phase. Similar with the Tanner and the Werewolves. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For the doppelgänger, you just have to trust them. You always have to trust them to tell the truth about what they copied, no matter what it is. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T19:39:00.543" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T19:39:00.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11358" CreationDate="2015-11-30T10:52:30.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, you have to slot 5 pt with your 62 if you are trying for a gammon. Example would be a Crawford game at a score of 2-away, 1-away (or 6 to 5 in a 7-point match).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we think outside the box, of course you can slot 5-3 too with the same idea in the same situation, but let's think what are you giving up for it in exchange: if you played 83,63 you would have made an early home point, which is crucial for the gammon wins (this is why at the same score, initial 64 would be still better to make your 2-point). and if on the next roll the hitting exchange takes place, you are much better off in such a battle with an extra home point. Its not only the extra dancing numbers, but the restricted options of your opponent with the dice that contains any 6 and now any 3. This is quite important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the same time, you have nothing to give up for the 62 slot. you would never establish anything substantial with this roll so the risk-reward ratio is much better for 62 than it is for 53. I have been experimenting a lot with this scenario and slotted the vital points and fwiw, I came to conclusion that in points-slotting the point is not of a paramount importance but unstacking the checkers is. I remember the days when computers &quot;despised&quot; the slotting with the opening 21. Now its a standard play. I am also inclined to slot the 41, when computers advise against it, but for me unstacking is the priority, and this is another factor what is to consider when slotting 53. You could have had a home point, and unstacked 6 point. with slotting, you have lost both of these advantages. Needless to say, with 62 you didn't have any opportunity to unstack any points, so no much extra loss there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11958" LastEditorUserId="11958" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T12:36:56.937" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T12:36:56.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T12:53:25.273" Score="1" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Panther_Shark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panther shark&lt;/a&gt; effect is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent controls 2 or more monsters, you can Normal Summon&#xA;this card without Tributing. If you control &amp;quot;Eagle Shark&amp;quot;, you can&#xA;Special Summon this card (from your hand). You can only control 1&#xA;&amp;quot;Panther Shark&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Eagle_Shark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eagle shark&lt;/a&gt; effect is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent controls 2 or more monsters, you can Normal Summon&#xA;this card without Tributing. If you control &amp;quot;Panther Shark&amp;quot;, you can&#xA;Special Summon this card (from your hand). You can only control 1&#xA;&amp;quot;Eagle Shark&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if I can play &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Panther_Shark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Panther shark&lt;/a&gt; face-down defense position from its own effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you control &amp;quot;Eagle Shark&amp;quot;, you can&#xA;Special Summon this card (from your hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And also can I summon in face-down defense position Panther shark according to the first part of its effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent controls 2 or more monsters, you can Normal Summon&#xA;this card without Tributing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up does the normal and special summon allowed by the effect of panther shark allows me to play this card in defense position face-down?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13430" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:48:56.927" Title="Could Panther shark be played face-down defense when summoned by its own effect?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-11-30T14:15:47.853" Score="1" ViewCount="835" Body="&lt;p&gt;What deck building / card games would be most accessible to a 7-9 year old? As a bonus, are there any that could encourage his/her learning, in line with his/her abilities at that age?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As guidance, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_grade&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia states&lt;/a&gt; that for second graders:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... students are taught place value to tens, hundreds or&#xA;  thousands, and renaming with addition and subtraction... Another skill students practice is counting money and making change. Positive and negative numbers are introduced, but not added and subtracted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In reading, students read to perform a task using fictional and&#xA;  non-fictional texts, and learn about story elements, text features,&#xA;  character traits, sequencing, and main idea/details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, my 7 year old is ready to move on from '&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7262/top-trumps&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Top Trumps&lt;/a&gt;'. He has a solid grasp of the relative values of numbers and in my opinion is ready to add a strategic element. We've tried and enjoyed '&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/70323/king-tokyo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/a&gt;', although I have noticed he mostly goes for the higher value cards'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there are many 'advanced/adult' games that 7-9 year olds are capable of getting their heads around, but I'd really like something that is immediately accessible to that age group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="73" LastEditorUserId="73" LastEditDate="2015-11-30T15:49:30.910" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T15:49:30.910" Title="Accessible (and educational) deck building game for second grade primary school child?" Tags="|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2015-12-01T03:06:45.390" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27754" CreationDate="2015-11-30T14:55:21.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for simplicity, probably one of the easiest to learn would be &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00HRGMPIU&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Star Realms&lt;/a&gt;. It's the simplest deck builder I've played, at least for the base game, but still provides some depth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other game I've seen lots of kids enjoy is &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B004U5RD1A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quarriors&lt;/a&gt;. Your &quot;deck&quot; is composed of dice in a bag, but the same concept applies--you accumulate money to buy creature dice, and those creature dice deal damage to other creature dice. A lot of symbols to deal with, especially if you buy the expansions, but still very accessible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting to math concepts of tens/hundreds and negatives might be difficult since deck builders tend to deal largely with single digit numbers and don't usually have &quot;debt&quot; systems or the like, but the money counting/addition/subtraction element should be present in almost any deck builder. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T14:55:21.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27700" CreationDate="2015-11-30T20:00:20.207" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Copyright only covers specific implementations, i.e. the exact wording of the rules.  Patents are a nonissue in this case, Boggle was released in 1972 so any patent applying to it would have expired years ago.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14441" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T20:00:20.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27749" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:09:36.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The player draws a new investigator and continues play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an investigator is defeated, the player controlling that investigator chooses a new investigator at the end of the Mythos Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After the Ancient One has awakened&lt;/strong&gt;, when an investigator is defeated or devoured, the player controlling that investigator is eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resource guide says the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't MtG, there isn't a stack.  My understanding of the &amp;quot;wait til the end of the mythos phase to start new guy&amp;quot; rule is to prevent any/all confusion about what actions (and interactions) that person can take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-11-30T22:09:36.897" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27760" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27761" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:49:46.037" Score="5" ViewCount="1103" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing MtG Duels and was up against an opponent who had me down to 2 life.  They had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=194056&quot;&gt;Perilous Myr&lt;/a&gt; so when it died would deal damage to me - sufficient to kill me.&#xA;I had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383289&quot;&gt;Juggernaut&lt;/a&gt; down so was forced to attack, so decided to just attack with everything to see what the rule was (or the game thought the rule was).  I had sufficient damage to kill them regardless of what they blocked.&#xA;I was pretty sure it would be a draw (dying/damage at the same time) or loss (their Myr's death would kill me before my attackers did damage) but despite their block and the Myr dying, I was granted the win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this a game bug and am I misunderstanding the stack?&#xA;I thought all combat damage was dealt at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE: Despite being the computer version of the game, I felt people here much more able to help me with the rules (not game) question.  If this is misposted please let me know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T17:36:18.163" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T17:36:18.163" Title="Doesn't damage occuring in the damage phase occur simultaneously?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|magic-duels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27760" CreationDate="2015-11-30T22:57:55.377" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;All combat damage is dealt simultaneously. But the damage from Perilous Myr's trigger isn't combat damage, it is an unrelated triggered ability. All combat damage was dealt, which resulted in the Myr dying and your opponent being at 0 health. This also resulted in the Myr's ability triggering, but that trigger never even makes it to the stack, because state-based actions are checked before triggered abilities are added to the stack. When they are checked, your opponent loses for having 0 health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-01T00:21:11.437" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T00:21:11.437" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7361" CreationDate="2015-12-01T01:44:45.300" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just ignore it! We always play team vs. team on every square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T01:44:45.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22448" CreationDate="2015-12-01T03:38:31.933" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether or not the information matters most of the time, you could mark the cards with invisible ink and then it wouldn't show up while playing. Keep a small black light with the game and you can use it to sort out the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14444" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T11:51:06.673" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T11:51:06.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24754" CreationDate="2015-12-01T05:28:02.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the accepted answer, for islands:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move a transport into an adjacent (emptied) sea tile; unload 1 to 2 infantry or 1 tank onto the island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14446" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T05:28:02.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27772" CreationDate="2015-12-01T11:51:45.363" Score="2" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time my group played BSG Board Game, we faced the following situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player took a Crisis Card that activated Basestar Attack. But, at that turn, all the basestars were at the Cylon Fleet board. We haven't reached a consensus, but my thoughts are that all the cylon ships on the space area where the basestars were located (both were at the same space area) should being placed on the same corresponding space area in the main game board. The others players agreed to just move the pursuit marker and do nothing. The same applied when we took an Launch Raiders Crisis Card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that right or am I not understanding the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T13:23:50.663" Title="What to do when all basestars are in the Cylon Fleet board?" Tags="|battlestar-galactica|exodus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24754" CreationDate="2015-12-01T15:50:17.213" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On an island, there wouldn't be an opportunity for a tank blitz (unless it started from a land zone two zones away).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But tanks or infantry can assault an island (or any coastal region) from a transport, possibly with air or battleship support. If they &quot;outlast&quot; the enemy defenders, the survivors can move ashore and occupy the island. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tanks or infantry attacking an unoccupied island have &quot;outlasted&quot; the enemy defenders, by definition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T15:50:17.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27769" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-01T16:12:37.507" Score="0" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a survivor has an item equipped (the lighter, for example), can that character equip identical items and would they be able to use all of them as normal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T20:20:07.920" Title="Can you equip multiples of the same item?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-02T12:50:41.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1954" CreationDate="2015-12-01T17:37:09.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a large game once, and more recently, several two player games. There are huge differences because in the two player game, by the end of turn two of each age, you've seen 14 of the 20 cards that will be played (the bottom card of the free city draft is never played.) In addition, the stack of cards (plus 1 from the draft each turn) that is used by the free city does not change for the entire age. So you are very, very much head to head with your opponent. You can look at the resources they are building, the free cards they could get, and you can manipulate the free city to buy from you, and bury cards useful to your opponent in Wonders. Before choosing my cards, I take a look at the resources currently available to my opponent, and rule out cards they would find useful. These cards might be left for use until later in the age, if I don't already find them really valuable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you want more strategy in your 7 Wonders, perhaps you can try games with fewer players. While I'm eager to try larger games, the idea of playing with 6 other players and not seeing the same stack of cards to choose from for the rest of each age is slightly terrifying!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14451" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T17:37:09.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27767" CreationDate="2015-12-01T19:29:45.897" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Battlestar_Galactica/exodus/rules/bsg-exodus-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for placing ships on the Cylon fleet board are awkwardly placed over two pages and it appears you missed the second section.  The situation is considerably more dire for the humans that how you played it.  The basestar shows up on the main game board and usually brings a &lt;em&gt;party&lt;/em&gt; with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all ships of the appropriate type are already on either the&#xA;  main game board or the Cylon Fleet game board, the current&#xA;  player finds the highest-numbered Cylon space area on the&#xA;  Cylon Fleet game board that contains at least one of that type&#xA;  of ship. He then moves all the ships in that Cylon space area&#xA;  to the corresponding space area on the main game board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T13:23:50.663" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T13:23:50.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27769" CreationDate="2015-12-01T20:20:07.920" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no limitations on equipped items, so yes, and yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T20:20:07.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27691" CreationDate="2015-12-01T22:37:04.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording on the &amp;quot;Just Say No&amp;quot; card says &amp;quot;Use any time when an action card is played against you. Play in the center to use.&amp;quot; Which doesn't even tell you what the card &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt;. So that's no help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules themselves say &amp;quot;Use this card at any time to cancel the effect when another player plays any Action card against you. If that player has another Just Say No card, they can use it to cancel yours ... sorry! Can also be banked as money.&amp;quot; Ok, so it &amp;quot;cancels the effect&amp;quot;. But is that effect the whole card, or just the bit where you have to pay rent? Not clear at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official website, as far as I can tell, doesn't exist. However, there is what appears to be a fairly official-looking fan-built site at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.monopolydealrules.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.monopolydealrules.com&lt;/a&gt; that has a FAQ, which includes &lt;a href=&quot;http://monopolydealrules.com/index.php?page=justsayno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an entire section on &amp;quot;Just Say No&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;. Question number 7 seems relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7. Does a Just Say No cancel the action against you or everyone? If I Just Say No someone's two color rent card do I only get out of paying rent or does everyone?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is something that can be played either way but most people play that it only no's the action for you. So in a scenario where someone charges everyone two million using a It's My Birthday card and you lay a Just Say No, only you would not have to pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the most official source available that actually answers the question is not actually official at all, and doesn't actually answer the question one way or the other (although it does make a suggestion as to which ruling to pick). Short of playing the Ubisoft version and seeing how the cards are implemented in it, I don't think there is an answer to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-01T22:37:04.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27775" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27776" CreationDate="2015-12-02T00:49:01.523" Score="6" ViewCount="1296" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A, B, and C are in a Multiplayer Game. It is player A's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sword%20of%20Vengeance&quot;&gt;Sword of Vengeance&lt;/a&gt; attached to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kobolds%20of%20Kher%20Keep&quot;&gt;Kobolds of Kher Keep&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mystic%20Crusader&quot;&gt;Mystic Crusader&lt;/a&gt;, and 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B has: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memnite&quot;&gt;Memnite&lt;/a&gt;, a tapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Darksteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; and 1 life&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player C has: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Artist&quot;&gt;Blood Artist&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancor&quot;&gt;Rancor&lt;/a&gt; and 2 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No one has a hand, graveyard or any lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A attacks Player B with the Kobolds and he attacks player C with the Mystic. Player B blocks with the Memnite and takes 1 damage in the first strike step. Does Player C's Blood Artist trigger from the memnite's death, allowing Player C to win by targeting Player A with the ability. Or does memnite never make it to the graveyard due to Player B losing the game, allowing Player A to win when the Mystic deals combat damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8021" LastEditorUserId="8021" LastEditDate="2015-12-02T00:57:54.733" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T01:41:17.350" Title="Creatures Dying At Same Time Controller Loses" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27775" CreationDate="2015-12-02T01:41:17.350" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player C can win with Blood Artist's triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After First Strike damage, Player A would gain priority, so &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;state-based actions&lt;/a&gt; are checked. The following ones actually happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5a&lt;/strong&gt; If a player has 0 or less life, he or she loses the game. &lt;em&gt;(Player B, in this case)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5g&lt;/strong&gt; If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event. &lt;em&gt;(Player B's Memnite, in this case)&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then rule 704.3 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, &lt;strong&gt;then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; otherwise all triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on the stack, then the check is repeated.&lt;/strong&gt; Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority. This process also occurs during the cleanup step (see rule 514), except that if no state-based actions are performed as the result of the step’s first check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, then no player gets priority and the step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, simultaneously, Player B loses and Memnite goes to the graveyard. At this point, Blood Artists ability triggers. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Multiplayer_rules)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 800.4&lt;/a&gt; has a complete description of what happens when Player B loses; essentially, they take all of their cards and leave. Now, SBA's are checked again, and since no action needs to be taken, Blood Artist's triggered ability goes on the stack, with Player C presumably choosing player A as the target. Eventually, the ability resolves, putting player A at 0 life. The check described above repeats, and player A loses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing here is that there is no mention in rule 800.4 or any of its subrules that anything happens to abilities that other players own and control that happen to have trigger conditions associated with the losing player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T01:41:17.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27777" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27779" CreationDate="2015-12-02T08:56:53.590" Score="2" ViewCount="2776" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was a child, I was playing a game such as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is played on a standard chessboard, but only on the black squares.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are two players: the white player has a single white pawn which is the &quot;sheep&quot;; the black player has four pawns which are the &quot;wolves&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The players start at opposite sides of the board, and make a single diagonal step each turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The goal of the wolves is to capture the sheep - surround it such that it cannot move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The goal of the sheep is to escape the wolves and get to the opposite side of the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Recently I tried playing it again, but found out that I do not remember the exact rules. Specifically:&#xA;* Is the sheep allowed to go backward, or only forward?&#xA;* Are the wolves allowed to go backward, or only forward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We tried to play this game with all four combinations. In each combination, the game turned out to be too easy for one side and too difficult for the other side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the rules that make this game sufficiently challenging for both sides?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14460" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T09:22:20.460" Title="The sheep and the wolves" Tags="|house-rules|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27742" CreationDate="2015-12-02T09:34:29.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course you can kill it. That's the point of the Illusionist. The ability doesn't say &quot;The enemy cannot combat&quot;, just that you can skip its attack phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to see it as &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Your fellow illusionist cast a powerful spell that makes the monster&#xA;  believe you are elsewhere. The monster tries to attack you, but&#xA;  instead he attacks an empty space, making his attack so worthless you&#xA;  don't even need to block. Now you can strike back and put him out of his misery!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14461" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T16:06:15.253" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T16:06:15.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27777" CreationDate="2015-12-02T09:51:52.077" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you're describing &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fox_games#Fox_and_Hounds&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fox&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/148180/fox-and-hounds&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;and Hounds&lt;/a&gt; here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The four Hounds can only move forward diagonally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Fox can move forward or backwards diagonally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no jumping or capturing involved; the Hounds win when the Fox can't make any legal moves, and the Fox wins if it reaches the far rank (where the Hounds started).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is inherently unbalanced; with perfect play on both sides, the Fox (aka the Sheep, in your case) cannot win. I find it likely that, as a child, finding the game &quot;sufficiently challenging for both sides&quot; was more due to your inexperience in recognizing the optimal plays than in any house rules that actually &lt;em&gt;balanced&lt;/em&gt; the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2015-12-02T09:51:52.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-02T09:55:40.307" Score="5" ViewCount="6651" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the Game of Life board game and lost the instructions. I found the 1977 &amp;amp; 1991 instructions online but they are not the same as my version.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On the box there is that mine is of 1992 but still the 1991 instructions version are completely different. My version has mostly yellow tiles, few orange and some red tiles. No blue or white or green or Life tiles at all. Nor Pay Day tiles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have some tiles stating Casino tiles, take X amount of money or risk it. But how can you risk it? My version is you have to pay $20 K to go to university. Other versions say $40 K and above.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Life insurance cost $25 K. I have no Automobile or Homeowners Insurance Policies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cards I have are: Bank Loans, Salary, Career &amp;amp; Status Symbol. (No House Deeds &amp;amp; Stock Cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Where can I find the rules for this version?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y32rL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y32rL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14462" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-04-08T02:45:23.450" LastActivityDate="2019-04-28T14:56:19.860" Title="Where can I find the rules for Game of Life 1991 UK version?" Tags="|game-of-life|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29001" CreationDate="2015-12-02T12:39:01.273" Score="2" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Xxcha have the ability to predict a winner (solo or from an alliance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can they use this ability to predict the special win conditions?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IE: Can the Xxcha player predict a Hakan victory on turn 8 (from his special condition, and not from normal strongholds?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, then the Xxcha player's best choice is to do this (imho) since then all he has to do is make sure no one wins by the end of the game, and have at least 1 unit in one of Sols special win location (preventing Sol from winning, and thus giving the win to Hakan - and subsequently to themselves)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T21:22:41.327" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T21:22:41.327" Title="Can the Xxcha predict a special victory for Sol or Hakan?" Tags="|rex|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27783" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27784" CreationDate="2015-12-03T02:03:04.333" Score="2" ViewCount="3242" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm building a deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hangarback%20Walker&quot;&gt;Hangarback Walker&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt;, and I was wondering if I could cast Hangarback for X=0, and it would activate Hardened Scales. Just a thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12529" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T05:53:59.917" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T07:42:48.563" Title="Can you cast Hangarback Walker for X=0 and have it survive with Hardened Scales?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27783" CreationDate="2015-12-03T02:06:22.850" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, and for a very straightforward reason: Hardened Scales requires that &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; one counter be placed on the creature before it adds any additional counters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06tHJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/06tHJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hardened Scales&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key text here is 'If &lt;em&gt;one or more&lt;/em&gt;'.  You're trying to put zero counters on the Hangarback Walker, and so Hardened Scales never processes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T02:06:22.850" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26998" CreationDate="2015-12-03T02:31:00.010" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Void Winnower works: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Face down spells: &quot;Exception from the rule&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Face down creatures:  &quot;This kind of creatures Like &quot;manifest&quot; or &quot;tokens&quot; are not affected by the card&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Author note: I am a player from South America -Chile. I started MTG 16 years ago with the portal deck and today im still an active player. I hope this post help you with your seeking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14466" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T02:31:00.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27783" CreationDate="2015-12-03T04:18:32.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hangarback%20Walker&quot;&gt;Hangarback Walker&lt;/a&gt; for 0, and it will enter the battlefield with zero +1/+1 counters. Since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt; requires &amp;quot;one or more&amp;quot; +1/+1 counters to be put on the permanent to trigger the replacement effect, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hardened%20Scales&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt; won't trigger. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hangarback%20Walker&quot;&gt;Hangarback Walker&lt;/a&gt; will Enter the Battlefield as a 0/0, and die due to state based Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hangarback%20Walker&quot;&gt;Hangarback Walker&lt;/a&gt; for free, there are options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have a permanent in play that provides an anthem effect to your creatures of at least +0/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Have it enter with a +1/+1 counter for Free. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zameck%20Guildmage&quot;&gt;Zameck Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Master%20Biomancer&quot;&gt;Master Biomancer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Graft is not an option. Though the triggered effect of the creature will happen, state based actions will kill the 0/0 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hangarback%20Walker&quot;&gt;Hangarback Walker&lt;/a&gt; before the trigger can be placed on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T06:14:42.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T06:14:42.670" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27780" CreationDate="2015-12-03T11:02:48.817" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't been able to find them online anywhere, but I believe I can narrow your search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular box was marketed exclusively to Great Britain, which makes them less popular than most English versions which were aimed at US buyers. Thus it's likely no one ever bothered to upload a pdf version of the game. Although the copyright is 1992, it's called the 1991 UK edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can verify that it is the Great Britain marketed version by checking the bottom left corner (assuming you're looking at it with University going left and Career going right, as you do in your photo) and seeing the characters 4560GB written vertically. It's quite small, but is just next to the Hurricane tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can ask Hasbro themselves for the rules to this edition at their customer service website at &lt;a href=&quot;https://hasbro-new.custhelp.com/app/utils/login_form/redirect/ask&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://hasbro-new.custhelp.com/app/utils/login_form/redirect/ask&lt;/a&gt; (note, a login is required) or you can write them at&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hasbro UK Ltd&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  PO BOX 43&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Newport&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Gwent&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  NP19 4YH&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps focus your efforts on finding the rulebook appropriate for your game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T16:11:44.307" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T16:11:44.307" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27792" CreationDate="2015-12-03T13:19:42.333" Score="5" ViewCount="339" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner and I have a pretty neat system for bidding against opponents opening a weak 2 (2 in a Major = &amp;lt;11 HCP, 6-card; 2 Diamonds as either the Multi or weak with diamonds). In this system, if North opens and East passes, that pass has a specific meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this 'Pass' need to be alerted? Is it reglementary to alert a 'Pass'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for Double, we have some specific agreements for Double in this defense as well. Does that need to be alerted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T21:25:45.430" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T21:25:45.430" Title="Should I alert a conventional 'Pass'" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27783" CreationDate="2015-12-03T17:09:40.650" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would just like to add to Steven Stadnicki's answer that even if it was a triggered ability that put counters on creatures when they enter the battlefield it still will not work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State base actions would see a creature with zero toughness and it would be put in the graveyard before the triggered ability gets a chance to put any counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say for instance instead of the scales you had &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397697&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aquastrand Spider&lt;/a&gt; it still would not work for the reason I stated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T17:09:40.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27791" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27795" CreationDate="2015-12-03T18:11:02.150" Score="3" ViewCount="1734" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that a player cannot choose to take a condition when he already has one of that type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you deal with cases when an event &lt;strong&gt;forces&lt;/strong&gt; you to draw a condition card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, let's say my character has a debt card and he is asked by an event in the game to draw one. Do you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;simply ignore this step in the event resolution&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flip the card you previously owned and that's it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;flip the card you previously owned and draw another one (ouch)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T19:08:33.030" Title="In Eldritch Horror, how do you deal with cases when an event forces you to draw a condition card that you already have?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-17T17:25:59.630" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27792" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27789" CreationDate="2015-12-03T18:14:13.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the English Bridge Union Blue Book (Rules and Ethics):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unless it is announceable (&#xA;  see 4&#xA;  D&#xA;  , 4&#xA;  E, 4&#xA;  F&#xA;  and 4&#xA;  G&#xA;  ), a pass&#xA;  or bid must be alerted if&#xA;  it&#xA;  :&#xA;  (a)&#xA;  is not natural; or&#xA;  (b)&#xA;  is natural but has a potentially unexpected meaning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;('Natural' has a long paragraph of definition; a natural pass is&#xA;&quot;A pass&#xA;which does not unexpectedly convey values or specify suit holdings.&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, if your bid (including pass or double) is conventional it must be alerted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T18:14:13.690" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-03T18:19:39.997" Score="9" ViewCount="1388" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a buddy and I were playing a game of Magic that turned out to be a really quick game because he got &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=King%20Macar%2C%20the%20Gold-Cursed&quot;&gt;King Macar, the Gold-Cursed&lt;/a&gt; out on the battlefield early. He was tapping it without attacking because of its obviously awesome ability but I don't know if you can tap a creature for its Inspired (untap-triggered) ability without attacking for it to then be tapped. Are you allowed to tap a creature whenever you want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14470" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-03T19:15:57.203" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:54:42.660" Title="Can King Macar the Gold-Cursed be tapped without attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27793" CreationDate="2015-12-03T18:25:50.680" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't just tap your creatures whenever you want. You can only tap it at one of the following times:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When the game tells you to tap it (like when you attack).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a card tells you to tap it (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Twiddle&quot;&gt;Twiddle&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you can tap it to pay a cost (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20Obedience&quot;&gt;Endless Obedience&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that would allow you to tap King Macar include &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Aconspire%20or%20o%3Aconvoke&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;spells with conspire and convoke&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22creature%20has%22%20o%3A%7BT%7D&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cards that grant tap abilities&lt;/a&gt; (that has a couple of false positives), and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22tap%20target%20creature%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;cards that tap creatures as an effect&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T00:54:42.660" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T00:54:42.660" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27791" CreationDate="2015-12-03T18:52:31.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The very detailed &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot;&gt;reference guide&lt;/a&gt; covers this case. From p.4, &lt;em&gt;&quot;Conditions&quot;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator cannot have multiple copies of the same  Condition. If&#xA;  he would gain a Condition that he already has a  copy of, he does not&#xA;  gain another copy of that Condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2015-12-03T18:52:31.567" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27803" CreationDate="2015-12-04T01:38:36.683" Score="5" ViewCount="2341" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is, what is the actual reasson this was written into the rules?  I'm not very into chess so pardon me if there's an obvious answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14475" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T10:43:12.927" Title="Why can the first pawn move in chess move two spaces?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27796" CreationDate="2015-12-04T08:46:25.123" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason is history. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At some point in history (between 1200 and 1500 AD in Europe when the old game of Shatranj evolved into Modern Chess), there was a lots of experimenting with different rules in chess, and the double move of the pawn made the game more dynamic and pleasant for the Chess players, therefore it stayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T10:43:12.927" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T10:43:12.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27799" CreationDate="2015-12-04T12:03:17.460" Score="2" ViewCount="1460" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conduit%20of%20Ruin&quot;&gt;Conduit of Ruin&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and say that I will be casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20One&quot;&gt;Endless One&lt;/a&gt; for 10 mana, will the cost reduction of 2 mana from the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conduit%20of%20Ruin&quot;&gt;Conduit of Ruin&lt;/a&gt;'s effect reduce the X so that the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20One&quot;&gt;Endless One&lt;/a&gt; is 8/8 or will it remain 10/10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is going with X = 10, but I need to make sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, expanding on that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have 4 x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conduit%20of%20Ruin&quot;&gt;Conduit of Ruin&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, could I cast an 8/8 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Endless%20One&quot;&gt;Endless One&lt;/a&gt; for &amp;quot;free&amp;quot;, using only the total cost reduction of 8 mana (from the 4 x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conduit%20of%20Ruin&quot;&gt;Conduit of Ruin&lt;/a&gt;s) as the &amp;quot;X&amp;quot; casting cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14064" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T15:09:31.570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T15:09:31.570" Title="&quot;Conduit of Ruin&quot; and &quot;Endless One&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2019-04-26T17:28:32.087" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27798" CreationDate="2015-12-04T12:25:24.883" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your interpretation is correct. From the card rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conduit of Ruin’s last ability doesn’t change the mana cost or&#xA;converted mana cost of any spell. It changes only the total cost you&#xA;actually pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you control more than one&#xA;Conduit of Ruin, the last ability of each of them applies only to the&#xA;first creature spell you cast each turn, not to different spells; if you control two Conduits of Ruin, the&#xA;first creature spell you cast each turn will cost {4} less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first creature spell you cast in a turn has {X} in&#xA;its mana cost, you choose the value of X before calculating the&#xA;spell’s total cost. For example, if the first creature spell you cast&#xA;in a turn has a mana cost of {X}{G}, you could choose 2 as the value&#xA;of X and pay {G} to cast the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the value that you pick for X is fixed, the only thing that changes is what you actually pay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T12:25:24.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27801" CreationDate="2015-12-04T13:52:55.327" Score="5" ViewCount="1854" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my question is if I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Alesha%2C%20Who%20Smiles%20at%20Death&quot;&gt;Alesha, Who Smiles at Death&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield can I use her ability to bring back a creature where * is the cards power, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kolaghan%20Forerunners&quot;&gt;Kolaghan Forerunners&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T05:02:10.597" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T05:02:10.597" Title="Alesha, Who Smiles at Death, and cards with a * as their power" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27800" CreationDate="2015-12-04T13:57:41.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Forerunners have what is called Characteristic-Defining Ability, and those function in all zones. So you can only return them with Alesha if you have less than 3 creatures on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;208.2a&lt;/strong&gt; The card may have a characteristic-defining ability that sets its power and/or toughness according to some stated condition. (See rule 604.3.) Such an ability is worded “[This creature’s] [power or toughness] is equal to . . .” or “[This creature’s] power and toughness are each equal to . . .” &lt;strong&gt;This ability functions everywhere&lt;/strong&gt;, even outside the game. If the ability needs to use a number that can’t be determined, including inside a calculation, use 0 instead of that number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T13:57:41.693" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27798" CreationDate="2015-12-04T14:11:21.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose a value for X which is then reduced by two colourless mana for each conduit you have on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I have a Conduit of Ruin on the battlefield and say that I will be&#xA;  casting Endless One for 10 mana, will the cost reduction of 2 mana&#xA;  from the Conduit's effect reduce the X so that the Endless one is 8/8&#xA;  or will it remain 10/10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose a value for X and then a slew of effects may either increase or decrease the cost. Here is the pertinent rules. It is a bit long but worth the read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2a To propose the casting of a spell, a player first moves that card (or that copy of a card) from where it is to the stack. It&#xA;  becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has all the&#xA;  characteristics of the card (or the copy of a card) associated with&#xA;  it, and that player becomes its controller. The spell remains on the&#xA;  stack until it’s countered, it resolves, or an effect moves it&#xA;  elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2b If the spell is modal, the player announces the mode choice (see rule 700.2). If the player wishes to splice any cards onto the&#xA;  spell (see rule 702.46), he or she reveals those cards in his or her&#xA;  hand. If the spell has alternative or additional costs that will be&#xA;  paid as it’s being cast such as buyback or kicker costs (see rules&#xA;  117.8 and 117.9), the player announces his or her intentions to pay any or all of those costs (see rule 601.2f). A player can’t apply two&#xA;  alternative methods of casting or two alternative costs to a single&#xA;  spell. &lt;strong&gt;If the spell has a variable cost that will be paid as it’s&#xA;  being cast (such as an {X} in its mana cost; see rule 107.3)&lt;/strong&gt;, the&#xA;  player announces the value of that variable. If a cost that will be&#xA;  paid as the spell is being cast includes hybrid mana symbols, the&#xA;  player announces the nonhybrid equivalent cost he or she intends to&#xA;  pay. If a cost that will be paid as the spell is being cast includes&#xA;  Phyrexian mana symbols, the player announces whether he or she intends&#xA;  to pay 2 life or the corresponding colored mana cost for each of those&#xA;  symbols. Previously made choices (such as choosing to cast a spell&#xA;  with flashback from a graveyard or choosing to cast a creature with&#xA;  morph face down) may restrict the player’s options when making these&#xA;  choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2f The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative&#xA;  costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may&#xA;  provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana,&#xA;  tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so&#xA;  on. The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined&#xA;  in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and&#xA;  minus all cost reductions. If multiple cost reductions apply, the&#xA;  player may apply them in any order. If the mana component of the total&#xA;  cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered&#xA;  to be {0}. It can’t be reduced to less than {0}. Once the total cost&#xA;  is determined, any effects that directly affect the total cost are&#xA;  applied. Then the resulting total cost becomes “locked in.” If effects&#xA;  would change the total cost after this time, they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T14:11:21.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27796" CreationDate="2015-12-04T15:28:32.683" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no obvious answer from what research I have done. It was very likely added simply to make the game more interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The en passant rule was then added to make it harder to use the two space rule to avoid getting captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T15:28:32.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27804" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-04T16:48:33.307" Score="0" ViewCount="132" Body="&lt;p&gt;I pledged the first Let's Kill Krampus &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lkk/lets-kill-krampus-a-card-game-for-4-9-naughty-chil/posts/567736&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;, which was unfortunately unsuccessful.  I didn't find out about the second Kickstarter until it had already ended, but it was successful, at least.  Recently, someone talking about the upcoming Krampus movie reminded me that LKK exists, so I went looking for it, assuming that it would have entered production after its successful Kickstarter, but I can't seem to find it anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Let's Kill Krampus available for purchase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8574" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2015-12-04T20:14:29.210" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T20:14:29.210" Title="Can Let's Kill Krampus still be purchased?" Tags="|lets-kill-krampus|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27804" CreationDate="2015-12-04T16:54:02.237" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is possible, but you need to contact the developers for information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the last social media post I can find from the company. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hi folks, sorry if you couldn't reach us by email, we closed our&#xA;  website and it was linked to our Gmail, so we're figuring out some&#xA;  kinks there. &lt;strong&gt;We are not planning new releases or production runs at&#xA;  this time, but we do have some stock of LKK still available&lt;/strong&gt;; we'll&#xA;  post more details soon for anyone interested!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;this post was made on facebook December 20, 2014, so they may have already sold out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/ThreeFatesGames/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.facebook.com/ThreeFatesGames/&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T16:54:02.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27806" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:08:28.943" Score="4" ViewCount="5794" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a board game popular amongst students at my university back in the mid 90's that I am trying to identify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I remember (or think I remember) about it is that there was a stack of cards asking questions about &quot;who is most likely to&quot; do a certain thing.  Everyone then voted who amongst the game players is &quot;most likely&quot; to do what was on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone has some sort of token they use to select someone else in the game.  Once everyone has voted they reveal their picks.  I think if you voted along with the majority you got to move your token forwards on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14481" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T15:30:14.307" Title="What game asks &quot;who is most likely to...&quot;?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24767" CreationDate="2015-12-04T17:46:44.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct. A Japanese marker is placed on it as it is a captured territory by the enemy and should be treated as such by the allies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. allies can't land on it without taking it, it can't be blitzed through it without battling units in it etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply up it just had no IPC value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14483" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T17:46:44.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27791" CreationDate="2015-12-04T19:08:33.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;ire_and_curses's&lt;/strong&gt; answer is correct, you can not gain multiple copies of the same condition. There are, however, two caveats to this that are important to note.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Curses and Blessings have their own rules for handling multiple copies. If you were to gain a second one of either, you flip them instead. This is printed on those cards and, as always, text on cards overrules general rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the future more conditions with special handling for these cases may be added.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This rule means that you can not &quot;pay&quot; for an effect if you already have the condition required. This means that when you are instructed to &quot;gain a specific condition&quot; or something else (worse) happens, you have to resolve the &quot;something else&quot; if you already have that condition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for text like &quot;you may gain a specific condition to gain something 'good'&quot;, you can't pay for the good stuff if you already have the condition. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2015-12-04T19:08:33.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27810" CreationDate="2015-12-05T05:30:06.770" Score="9" ViewCount="23439" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of Secret Hitler with an even number of players, what is the result of the election if exactly 50% of the players vote &quot;Ja!&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the government get to pass a policy, or does it count as a failed government?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14486" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T05:53:43.823" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:08:21.673" Title="In Secret Hitler, what happens when exactly 50% of players vote &quot;Ja!&quot;" Tags="|secret-hitler|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27809" CreationDate="2015-12-05T05:56:58.967" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/maxtemkin/secret-hitler/description&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt; page says the following (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each round, the President selects a Chancellor. The whole table votes &quot;Ja!&quot; or &quot;Nein!&quot; on their ticket; if a &lt;strong&gt;majority&lt;/strong&gt; of players vote “Ja!,” the elected President and Chancellor take the following actions to pass a new policy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since 50% is not a majority, the election failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T05:56:58.967" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27827" CreationDate="2015-12-05T07:39:42.113" Score="4" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;Purifying the World allows an investigator to collect the monster tiles of defeated monsters and then flip the card to perform some action based on the number or toughness of tiles he's collected.  Can the investigator collect, or probably more appropriately keep track of, monsters which do not simply go back to the drawing pile, for instance ones that are set aside on the ancient one and used repeatedly in mysteries and encounters?  My thinking is that the most sensible thing to do is return them to their source (i.e. the ancient one sheet instead of making them &quot;unavailable&quot;) and keep track of them mentally or on paper to count them when flipping the Purifying the World card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T18:48:15.237" Title="When Purifying the World, can you keep or track monsters you don't usually return to the drawing pile?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-mountains-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27806" CreationDate="2015-12-05T12:35:54.080" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the game you are looking for is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2750/imaginiff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imaginiff&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is played in rounds. Each round, one of the players is chosen&#xA;as the &amp;quot;subject&amp;quot; of a question. The question has 6 multiple choice&#xA;answers. The question is read aloud and players vote on the answer&#xA;they think is correct. Points are awarded to the players that chose&#xA;the most popular answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imaginiff  were a flying object. Which would he/she be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blimp&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Biplane&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Glider&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frisbee&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lear jet&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brick&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is at least, the most similar game I know to what you are describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3716" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T15:44:13.363" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27814" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27817" CreationDate="2015-12-05T17:02:08.673" Score="3" ViewCount="272" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would do this with 8765432 of a suit in third seat, and a &quot;Yarborough&quot; elsewhere in hand, and with favorable vulnerability (not vulnerable vs. vulnerable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opposite a passed partner, I don't fear missing out on a game, or any constructive bid, and I do fear that the opponents have at least a game in hand, if not a slam, if fourth seat gets to open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner has one or two trumps, I will make four tricks on sheer length against an opposing 3-1 or 3-2 distribution (3-3 for that matter). Doubled, non-vulnerable, that is -1100, less than the value of an opposing slam and rubber bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If partner has the three defensive tricks needed to hold opponents to game, s/he will contribute 2-3 tricks, and we'd be down two or three -300 or -500, less than the value of game and rubber for the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are the above circumstances the only time to do this? Or are there some systems or experts that would go &quot;beyond&quot; this and bid &quot;any seven&quot; either in the first or second seat, and/or with equal vulnerability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would most people refrain from bidding &quot;any seven&quot; even with third seat and favorable vulnerability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T02:05:41.783" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T20:03:27.070" Title="Is&quot; third seat, favorable vulnerabilty&quot; the only appropriate time to pre-empt with &quot;any seven&quot; of a suit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-05T21:06:05.257" Score="3" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Champion%20of%20Stray%20Souls&quot;&gt;Champion of Stray Souls&lt;/a&gt;. It says, in short, that I can trade any number of creatures (sacrifice) for any other creatures in my graveyard.  It does not say creatures in my hand or on the battlefield, so my question  is:  Can I sacrifice creatures in my deck or in my hand (or just my hand but not my deck, etc.) to trade in for creatures in the graveyard, or just creatures on the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14494" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-12-05T21:14:34.567" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T21:16:04.240" Title="What can I sacrifice for Champion of Stray Souls' ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27815" CreationDate="2015-12-05T21:16:04.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can only sacrifice creatures that are on the battlefield and you control.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14. Sacrifice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A permanent is a card on the battlefield, such as creatures, lands, artifacts, etc.. A card that is not on the battlefield can never be a creature (land, etc), only a creature card (land card, etc.).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-05T21:16:04.240" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27814" CreationDate="2015-12-05T21:32:07.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific question: &lt;em&gt;Other than third-seat favourable vulnerability, only when you are specifically interested in a small short-term bump in your results against weak club competition, and are willing to sacrifice your overall partnership rapport and skill level in order to do so.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your argument is extremely faulty. If one is allowed to open 3 in a suit with a hand like such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x-xxxxxxx-xx-xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then one is effectively removing the capability to open 3 in a suit with a constructive hand such as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;x-KJTxxxx-xx-KTx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;because it is too dangerous for partner to respond on the possibility of the second hand and risk going down 1700 or 2000 if you only have the first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, you  are neglecting the value of the distributional information that you are giving to the opponents, and that you are depriving both yourself and partner of (from hearing an informative opponent auction) in making an informed opening lead and sound defence. Destructive agreements like this are discouraged by all authorities because they both prey on weak players, who do not have the experience and agreements to deal with them, and convert expert contests into extreme games of chance from ones of skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, in a club game you will undoubtedly do well with such an agreement against weak players; but you will at best break even in the same games using it against experienced partnerships; turn friends into enemies; and see your tournament results plummet as you develop a reliance on such gimmicks for good results at the expense of sound bidding and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as I noted in a comment above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, bridge clubs around the world have numerous fools who would bid thus - .... Bidding on the assumption that LHO received a defective bidding box, without any red cards, is lunatic bridge. LHO's bidding box is just fine, and [if an experienced player] he knows exactly how to pull that red card, whether it be for penalty or takeout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to note that a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;very weak&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; hand is much less likely than a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;merely weak&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; hand. Thus that holding a hand similar to &lt;code&gt;x-KJTxxxx-xx-KTx&lt;/code&gt; is much more likely than holding one similar to &lt;code&gt;x-xxxxxxx-xx-xxx&lt;/code&gt;. Are you &lt;em&gt;really sure&lt;/em&gt; you wish to handicap all the hands where you hold the former, just so that you can bid on the very rare occurrence of the latter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/59UHu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/59UHu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly one moderate feature outside the suit is much more likely than no moderate feature outside the suit, compounding the unfavourable statistics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeff-goldsmith.org/html/ehaa.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An example&lt;/a&gt; of how a system that encourages light openings enables opposing declarers to make contracts unlikely to be made otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T20:03:27.070" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T20:03:27.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27819" CreationDate="2015-12-05T23:39:14.480" Score="12" ViewCount="6357" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get this is kind of a noob question, so bear with me. My friend plays a legacy discard deck, and he'll usually dark ritual or something to make me discard 3-5 cards in the first 3 turns, and by turn 5-6 my hand is empty. (More specifically he's running Griselbrand reanimator, so his hand is rarely empty.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this might not work against cheap aggro (I regularly win with RDW), I don't see how any other deck can really handle this. When he has a full hand and I'm limited to 1 new card per turn, which I have to either cast or lose thanks to specters, how am I supposed to ever catch up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet at the same time I know discard isn't like auto-tournie-win, so I'm just not sure how people deal with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give some info about my specific situation and the key cards I use, I am playing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Legacy RDW with key cards being &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stonewright&quot;&gt;Stonewright&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Mauler&quot;&gt;Lightning Mauler&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Cackler&quot;&gt;Rakdos Cackler&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hellrider&quot;&gt;Hellrider&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ash%20Zealot&quot;&gt;Ash Zealot&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyreheart%20Wolf&quot;&gt;Pyreheart Wolf&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ball%20Lightning&quot;&gt;Ball Lightning&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trumpet%20Blast&quot;&gt;Trumpet Blast&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pillar%20of%20Flame&quot;&gt;Pillar of Flame&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Legacy combo elves (Elfdrazi) with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Priest%20of%20Titania&quot;&gt;Priest of Titania&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rofellos%2C%20Llanowar%20Emissary&quot;&gt;Rofellos, Llanowar Emissary&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ezuri%2C%20Renegade%20Leader&quot;&gt;Ezuri, Renegade Leader&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeker%20of%20Skybreak&quot;&gt;Seeker of Skybreak&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Piper&quot;&gt;Elvish Piper&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fierce%20Empath&quot;&gt;Fierce Empath&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Concordant%20Crossroads&quot;&gt;Concordant Crossroads&lt;/a&gt; / a bunch of tutors / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vitalize&quot;&gt;Vitalize&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend is primarily using Griselbrand Reanimator, using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=239995&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Buried%20Alive&quot;&gt;Buried Alive&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Dead&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zombify&quot;&gt;Zombify&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cabal%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Cabal Ritual&lt;/a&gt; / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Petition&quot;&gt;Dark Petition&lt;/a&gt; / a bunch of tutors / &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crypt%20Ghast&quot;&gt;Crypt Ghast&lt;/a&gt; and the death knell being &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Twist&quot;&gt;Mind Twist&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (discard my whole hand) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376372&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infest&lt;/a&gt; (kills all creatures in both my decks). On paper he wins using &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=234436&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sorin's Vengeance&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Debt%20to%20the%20Deathless&quot;&gt;Debt to the Deathless&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Consume%20Spirit&quot;&gt;Consume Spirit&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Exsanguinate&quot;&gt;Exsanguinate&lt;/a&gt;, but Mind Twist is really what does it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T22:51:04.553" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T06:49:03.980" Title="How are you supposed to fight a discard deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27818" CreationDate="2015-12-06T00:22:10.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Against decks that rely on 3-8 precision cards to disrupt you but mostly consist of another strategy, I recommend these resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7747/how-can-i-play-around-targeted-discard&quot;&gt;B&amp;amp;CG: How can I play around targeted discard?&lt;/a&gt; — general advice&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://articles.starcitygames.com/premium/thoughtseize-you/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reid Duke: Thoughtseize You&lt;/a&gt; — to understand what your opponent is&#xA;doing&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Against decks that are practically wall-to-wall discard&lt;/strong&gt;, here are some techniques that may help:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Get &quot;under&quot; them&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play out your hand faster than they can rip it apart. This is what your red aggro deck is doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Rely on strong topdecks&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the biggest weaknesses of discard decks: most discard cards are sorcery speed. Even once you're &quot;hellbent,&quot; you'll usually be able to draw your card and play it on your turn. So you'll still be making land drops and you'll be able to cast most of the permanents and removal spells in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The worst thing about playing a dedicated discard deck is that half the cards in your deck just do nothing once your opponent is topdecking. So, focus your resources on taking out the cards of their that still have value — finishers, combo pieces, and engines of advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Play out of your graveyard&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With some exceptions, discard typically puts stuff in your graveyard. Flashback spells, reanimation effects, self-reanimators (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGravecrawler%5d&quot;&gt;Gravecrawler&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Incidental Hosers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some staple creatures are also, incidentally, discard hosers — for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWilt-Leaf%20Liege%5d&quot;&gt;Wilt-Leaf Liege&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLoxodon%20Smiter%5d&quot;&gt;Loxodon Smiter&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bObstinate%20Baloth%5d&quot;&gt;Obstinate Baloth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Precision tools&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a quality sideboard card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BX0HQ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BX0HQ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Leyline of Sanctity&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can drop it on turn zero, for free. It blocks all of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThoughtseize%5d&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCabal%20Therapy%5d&quot;&gt;Cabal Therapy&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInquisition%20of%20Kozilek%5d&quot;&gt;Inquisition of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDuress%5d&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHymn%20to%20Tourach%5d&quot;&gt;Hymn to Tourach&lt;/a&gt;. It's also a strong card against burn decks, many combo decks (e.g. Tendrils).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2020-05-10T21:16:36.970" LastActivityDate="2020-05-10T21:16:36.970" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27809" CreationDate="2015-12-06T00:35:22.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Majority&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; tells us that a majority is &quot;A majority is a subset of a set consisting of &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; than half of the set's elements&quot;. It is better to go by the rules rather the Kickstarter page. Unfortunately, the rules are contradictory. As noted by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/maxtemkin/secret-hitler/posts/1426121&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kthaeh&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The back of the President placard says at least 50% of the players&#xA;  have to vote for a proposed government in order to get them elected.&#xA;  The printed rules say more than 50% of the players have to vote for&#xA;  the government to get them elected.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are four reasons to resolve this contradiction in favour of the rule that &lt;em&gt;a government needs more than half&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firstly, the rules also say &quot;If the vote is a tie, or if most&#xA;players vote nein!,  the Presidency placard moves clockwise&quot;. Since&#xA;this is the only place in the rules that explicitly considers a tie,&#xA;this carries the most weight. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Secondly, the very end of the strategy&#xA;guide in the rules states that &quot;The Fascists can win ... by&#xA;rejecting Candidates until the board fills with fascist policies.&quot;.&#xA;This suggests that the intended play style makes it easy-ish to&#xA;reject candidates. Although ambiguous this is perhaps the most important reason, as the rules should serve the game rather the the other way round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thirdly, Kthaeh notes that similar games such as Avalon and Resistance require&#xA;more than half, so by principle of least surprise, we should be&#xA;more inclined not to have a different voting rule in this game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, as noted by &lt;code&gt;freevkd&lt;/code&gt;,&#xA;the Kickstarter page says a majority, and we could at least&#xA;give the Kickstarter page a tie-breaking vote between the rules and&#xA;the President's placard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14495" LastEditorUserId="14495" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T01:08:21.673" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:08:21.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27814" CreationDate="2015-12-06T01:08:46.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is Every Hand An Adventure, which is playable but not really a serious system.  The goal was basically to make the most disruptive, playable, reasonably natural, ACBL-legal system possible.  At least some versions of it included n-3 level overcalls on every hand with less than 12 points, a singleton or void, and an n-card suit, no individual judgement allowed.  (Yes - this means 5431 hands are opened with a weak 2, and 6331 hands at the 3 level.)  It also uses the 10-12 1N opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not trivial to play against.  To do well against it, you need solid agreements with your partner to define precisely the strength and shape of various actions over their weak bids.  With such agreements, it's not so hard to deal with, especially since knowledge of the opponents' distributions, combined with the fact that the hand itself is distributional, means you usually can make 22 hcp games and 29 hcp slams (as long as you're not off 2 quick tricks).  (Also, the negative inference that an opponent who passes in first seat has no singleton and &amp;lt;10 hcp is quite valuable.)  This means its gains are mostly due to opponents being unfamiliar with it rather than any of its strengths, and it is kind of cheap to try to win from unfamiliarity.  (Unfamiliarity also doesn't go very far, because it stops being an advantage if you're good enough for opponents to start preparing for you.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly it gets played by young adventurous experts in side games they don't care about.  It's also much less playable at IMPs, because, with 4 weak 2s and no opening carrying a promise of more than 13 hcp, you tend to miss games and slams where opener has a very strong hand, though at MPs these are rare enough that it's not a big deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T01:08:46.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27824" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27838" CreationDate="2015-12-06T10:54:06.770" Score="0" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to exchange two footmen for a knight anytime? For example, in an area without any castles or strongholds (no mustering points) can I at any time during the game exchange two footmen for a knight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14498" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T09:02:10.053" Title="Exchange two footmen for knight anytime? Game of Thrones" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27826" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T18:02:56.507" Score="2" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;The anime says that the Winged Dragon of Ra's attack and defense is what is added up by the attack and defense of the tributes to summon it. &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Trivia:The_Winged_Dragon_of_Ra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;From the Yu-Gi-Oh wiki&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Summoned by Tributing 3 monsters, the ATK and DEF of &quot;Ra&quot; become the combined ATK and DEF of the Tributed monsters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/The_Winged_Dragon_of_Ra&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card that is legal for tournaments&lt;/a&gt; does not say that on the card. Is the anime effect OK to use in a actual card game? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, people are saying how you can give life points for the attack like in the anime, but I'm asking if we can use the effect in a duel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14501" LastEditorUserId="22373" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:48:30.647" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T20:15:46.353" Title="Can I use the effect of the Winged Dragon of Ra from the Yu-Gi-Oh! anime in a real game?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27811" CreationDate="2015-12-06T18:48:15.237" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As luck would have it there is an official answer on this from the game designer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Purifying the World Unique Asset as well as the Hunting the&#xA;  Thousand Mystery allow investigators to “keep” defeated non-Epic&#xA;  Monsters. Both of these effects will function whether the Combat&#xA;  Encounter was premeditated or an ambush and even if the Monster is to&#xA;  be set aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It works like this: A Monster ambushes an investigator. He defeats it&#xA;  and instead of discarding it as normal, he places it on the Mystery or&#xA;  his TASK. While on that card, it is not available to be spawned, but&#xA;  its attributes may be referenced to resolve another ambush in the&#xA;  future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If another investigator were ambushed by a Monster, and the only&#xA;  available reference for that Monster has been placed on another card,&#xA;  that investigator would not be able to “keep” that Monster on his own&#xA;  Purifying the World; that specific token is already claimed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Finally, if a Monster that was previously set aside has been placed on&#xA;  a card, it will return to being set aside instead of being discarded&#xA;  when that card is discarded or otherwise removed from play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for playing!&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ~ Nikki Valens&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Fantasy Flight Games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; yes you can place such monsters on Purifying the World. Once you eventually turn that card over (or lose it for some reason), those monsters go back to being put aside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems it is an intentional secondary effect of this asset to enable you to remove monsters from the game! (At least until you flip over or lose the card)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T18:48:15.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27844" CreationDate="2015-12-06T19:49:31.660" Score="1" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some people I know would &quot;pre-empt&quot; three spades with a hand like the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(s) AKQxxxx (h) xx (d)xx (c)xx. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My preference, however is to open with a &quot;weak two,&quot; (spades) basically treating my seven card suit as if it had six. With some partners, I might open one spade even with only nine hcps, because it has 12 points counting distribution, seven (probable) tricks, and should make game opposite an opening hand that has three tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On another question someone asked me what I would do with KJTxxxx KTxx x x. Again I prefer a weak two in first and second positions, pre-empting only in third. (Take away the side king, and I would pre-empt three spades in the first three positions.) The reason is that my seven hcps (eight counting the two tens) is close enough to the &quot;average&quot; of 10, so that I don't want to take up bidding space that my partner might be able to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would even open a &quot;weak two&quot; with Axxxxxx and nothing else in other suits. That's because the ace (unlike a K or KJ) has real defensive value, and I feel less need to pre-empt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all (or most) of the above viable alternatives to pre-empting? Or should I be pre-empting more than I actually do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T22:18:07.400" Title="Are there viable alternatives to a &quot;three level pre-empt&quot; with a good seven card suit?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27829" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-06T21:59:14.617" Score="2" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend attacks with a creature with double strike (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boros%20Swiftblade&quot;&gt;Boros Swiftblade&lt;/a&gt;). I block with a creature, then I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; it. Do I or my creature take any damage from the double strike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14503" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T00:59:40.737" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T00:59:40.737" Title="Will double strike still do anything if I Cloudshift my blocker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27829" CreationDate="2015-12-06T22:11:03.877" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you cast Cloudshift during the Declare Blockers Step, specifically rule 509.5, than your creature will not suffer combat damage (506.4), but the Creature with Double Strike is still considered Blocked for the Combat Damage Step. It will assign no damage for either the first strike or normal combat damage portions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1c&lt;/strong&gt; A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2015-12-06T23:54:28.040" LastActivityDate="2015-12-06T23:54:28.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="46" CreationDate="2015-12-07T00:50:50.430" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best Return on Investment for a color group tends to come from the red properties with at least 3 houses on each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thinking on this is fairly simple. The most likely roll of the dice is a seven. Which means that a player's rolls should average out to be a multiple of seven over time. Taking into account the monopoly board there are only 3 properties a person will land on if they rolled nothing but sevens all around the board. The first property is a purple which even built up doesn't make you much, the second property is the first red property which costs a bit to build up but is well worth the investment and the third is a green property which cost way to much to build all the way up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relative investment required to build up the red properties is fairly cheap and as you are building on them people tend to land on these a lot especially if they are just getting out of jail since a multiple of 2 sevens takes them straight from jail to the most expensive of these properties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Reds are the only color group that are in the way of the average roll of the dice, both from go and jail, they represent the highest grossing properties in the entire game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14504" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T00:50:50.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27834" CreationDate="2015-12-07T06:34:19.037" Score="7" ViewCount="1737" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a creature with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Dead&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; attached to it. I attacked him with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;, forcing him to sacrifice 6 permanents to &lt;em&gt;Annihilator&lt;/em&gt;. He wanted to sacrifice both Animate Dead and the creature it was enchanting. I said that was impossible, as sacrificing either one would cause the other to leave the battlefield. Which of us is right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T06:54:21.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:18:24.760" Title="Can you sacrifice Animate Dead AND the creature it enchants?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27832" CreationDate="2015-12-07T06:58:30.027" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if someone's asked to sacrifice multiple permanents, they can sacrifice Animate Dead &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; its enchanted creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As part of enacting Emrakul's Annihilator ability, your opponent has to to make six choices. These six choices are made all at once during resolution, and at that point they're all valid choices, and &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; after those choices are made, the ability dumps all six choices into the graveyard simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just about no triggered abilities can actually activate during effect resolution, so Animate Dead can't do its thing until that ability's fully resolved. Once it is, Animate Dead has left the battlefield and its triggered ability goes onto the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Animate Dead leaves the battlefield, that creature's controller sacrifices it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That creature's no longer around, and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T02:18:24.760" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T02:18:24.760" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27835" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-07T08:07:42.367" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T08:07:42.367" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T08:07:42.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27836" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-07T08:07:42.367" Score="0" Body="Dramatic game of political intrigue and betrayal set in 1933 Germany. 5-10 players try to find Hitler in this Werewolf/Mafia inspired game." OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T13:42:42.707" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T13:42:42.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27824" CreationDate="2015-12-07T09:02:10.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Absolutely not! Nowhere in the rules is this permitted (also it doesn't make any thematic sense :))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per page 9 of the rule book, you may upgrade a footman to a knight for the cost of 1 muster point, but otherwise no. Note there is also no mechanism by which a player may willingly remove troops from the board (obviously you are forced to remove troops if you exceed your supply limits)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T09:02:10.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27839" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-07T11:59:39.650" Score="2" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing with my 10 year old niece.  She ropes me into it without much info.  I read about 2 player game and 3 cards up and she insists the old love letter game was different and wanted to throw away the rule book in rage. I think she simply never learned all the rules. Most rage-inducing was the hand maiden card. I interpreted the rules as saying that she must target herself in a 2 player game when I had handmaiden out. Reading the above just confuses me more. Do I need to read the rulebook? How does handmaiden work if she must play princess or guard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24536/in-love-letter-can-you-discard-a-card-instead-of-playing-it/27822#27822&quot;&gt;In Love Letter, can you discard a card instead of playing it?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14496" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T12:23:49.500" Title="Love letter handmaiden card play" Tags="|love-letter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27839" CreationDate="2015-12-07T12:23:49.500" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct: where appropriate you must target yourself if all other players in the game are affected by a Handmaid card, although the effect of this is not as intrusive as you would think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/tempest/files/2012/09/Love_Letter_Rules_Final.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (pages 19-20) expands upon the Handmaid card, specifically stating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all players other than the player whose turn it is are protected by Susannah, the player must choose him- or herself if possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the rulebook also expands upon each other card in the deck (pages 15-23), and states that the only card that will (must) affect yourself in this case is the Prince:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all other players are protected by the Handmaid, you must choose yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the cards either do not target other players, or are specifically expanded upon to say they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T12:23:49.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27841" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27842" CreationDate="2015-12-07T13:33:43.487" Score="3" ViewCount="791" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarfire&quot;&gt;Tarfire&lt;/a&gt; kill a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; when both players' graveyards are empty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T14:36:49.773" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T14:58:55.910" Title="Tarfire vs the tarmogoyf" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27841" CreationDate="2015-12-07T13:40:24.330" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. State based actions are checked after a spell is completely resolved. By that time, Tarfire is already in the graveyard. Tarfire counts as both a Tribal and an Instant, and so Tarmagoyf is a 2/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T14:58:55.910" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T14:58:55.910" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27843" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20809" CreationDate="2015-12-07T15:04:29.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/smallworld/en/img/su_rules_2015_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (p.7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Troop Redeployment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a player's conquests for the turn have ended, he may&#xA;  freely redeploy the Race tokens he has on the board, moving&#xA;  them from one Region to any other Region occupied by his race&#xA;  (not necessarily just an adjacent or contiguous Region), provided&#xA;  that &lt;strong&gt;at least&lt;/strong&gt; one Race token remains in each Region under his&#xA;  control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the Spiderine player's turn there should be at least one token per region, which means that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He cannot &quot;abandon the regions and let the monster races flood out&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Other players should be able to attack that player, giving him losses and thus forcing him to go into decline eventually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T15:04:29.787" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27828" CreationDate="2015-12-07T16:06:17.640" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend that preempts at the two level with defense and at the three level without. He doesn't get very good results from that treatment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, &lt;code&gt;AKQxxxx xx xx xx&lt;/code&gt; should be opened 3S in any seat and vulnerability. If you were 7321 instead of 7222, you could consider 1S if your partnership opens light. If you're in third seat and RHO opened, you might consider 4S nonvulnerable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The larger question is a question of philosophy. Preempts can be used primarily destructively (that is, as an attempt to interfere in opponents' auction), or as a mix of a constructive and destructive bid. If you preempt destructively, partner can never raise you to game (either 3NT or 4 of your major) based on power. If 2S could be anything from &lt;code&gt;KJxxxx xxx xx xx&lt;/code&gt; to &lt;code&gt;AKQxxxx xx xx xx&lt;/code&gt;, what is partner to do with &lt;code&gt;xx Axxx AKQx Axx&lt;/code&gt;? If you have the first hand, 4S is dicey and 3NT is hopeless. If you have the second, 6S and 6NT are excellent contracts. Partner just has to raise you to 4S and hope. If a three-level preempt contains both KQ-seventh and out, and 7-low and out, then partner can never raise you to 3NT, and even extending your preempt with a 3-card holding in your suit is  a risky proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes down to this: If your preempts are primarily destructive, you'll often be making the final decision for your partnership based on 13 cards, while your opponents will be using 26 during the auction. Your partnership will miss some good games and make some bad sacrifices. You'll make bad leads on defense more often and opponents will have more information about your distribution. Against that, opponents will get to the wrong strain or level a little more often than at other tables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think that's a good tradeoff, and few experts do either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2015-12-07T19:40:09.707" LastActivityDate="2015-12-07T19:40:09.707" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7560" CreationDate="2015-12-08T00:32:28.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest definition of what makes a commander a commander is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The attribute &quot;Commander&quot; is inherent to the card itself. It cannot be removed, copied or transferred.&lt;/strong&gt; It is just something that IS. (Much like how a token will never be a card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Infinite Reflection, even if you found a way around the Legendary Rule, only a commander CARD would ever do commander damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explanation is further explained in the in the Rule 903.3 example.&#xA;We can break this example down into three parts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. A commander that's been turned face down (due to Ixidron's effect, for example)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(or casting it face down, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=122432&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Akroma, Angel of Fury&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;is still a commander.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. A commander that's copying another card (due to Cytoshape's effect, for example) &lt;em&gt;is still a commander&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; This also includes things like &lt;em&gt;T&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398463&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;urn to Frog&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, which I use to minimize Commander damage I would take, &lt;em&gt;(which will 1+ whatever is buffing the frog)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. A permanent&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(that includes tokens)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;that's copying a commander (such as a Body Double, for example, copying a commander in a player's graveyard) &lt;em&gt;is not a commander&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14516" LastEditorUserId="14516" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T00:43:04.977" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T00:43:04.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27849" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27850" CreationDate="2015-12-08T01:53:16.427" Score="5" ViewCount="1086" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was suggested to me recently that Annihilator sacrifices (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt;'s) are only chosen during resolution, rather than while they're going on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do I choose those sacrifices during resolution?&lt;/strong&gt; What part of the comprehensive rules backs that up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find any clarity on the internet, in the rules, on the MTG Salvation wiki for Annihilator, or in the ability's rulings. It seems reasonable, but I'd like to know what's behind it. Plus, if I can choose and then later &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; some stuff, all the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T03:57:49.153" Title="Do I choose my Annihilator sacrifices during resolution?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27849" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:08:28.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do choose what to sacrifice when the ability is resolving. You only choose 3 things when putting a triggered ability on the stack: modes, targets, and distributions. The choice of what to sacrifice to Annihilator is none of those things, so you make that choice during resolution instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_spells_and_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 608.2d&lt;/a&gt; says that in the process of resolving an ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If an effect of a spell or ability offers any choices other than choices already made as part of casting the spell, activating the ability, or otherwise putting the spell or ability on the stack, the player announces these while applying the effect.&lt;/strong&gt; The player can’t choose an option that’s illegal or impossible, with the exception that having a library with no cards in it doesn’t make drawing a card an impossible action (see rule 120.3). If an effect divides or distributes something, such as damage or counters, as a player chooses among any number of untargeted players and/or objects, the player chooses the amount and division such that at least one player or object is chosen if able, and each chosen player or object receives at least one of whatever is being divided. (Note that if an effect divides or distributes something, such as damage or counters, as a player chooses among some number of target objects and/or players, the amount and division were determined as the spell or ability was put onto the stack rather than at this time; see rule 601.2d.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 603.3c&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a triggered ability is modal, its controller announces the mode choice when he or she puts the ability on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; If one of the modes would be illegal (due to an inability to choose legal targets, for example), that mode can’t be chosen. If no mode can be chosen, the ability is removed from the stack. (See rule 700.2.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6d says that the rest of the steps for putting a triggered ability on the stack follow the steps in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;601.2c-d&lt;/a&gt;. Those rules say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires.&lt;/strong&gt; A spell may require some targets only if an alternative or additional cost (such as a buyback or kicker cost), or a particular mode, was chosen for it; otherwise, the spell is cast as though it did not require those targets. If the spell has a variable number of targets, the player announces how many targets he or she will choose before he or she announces those targets. In some cases, the number of targets will be defined by the spell’s text. Once the number of targets the spell has is determined, that number doesn’t change, even if the information used to determine the number of targets does. The same target can’t be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word “target” on the spell. However, if the spell uses the word “target” in multiple places, the same object, player, or zone can be chosen once for each instance of the word “target” (as long as it fits the targeting criteria). If any effects say that an object or player must be chosen as a target, the player chooses targets so that he or she obeys the maximum possible number of such effects without violating any rules or effects that say that an object or player can’t be chosen as a target. The chosen players, objects, and/or zones each become a target of that spell. (Any abilities that trigger when those players, objects, and/or zones become the target of a spell trigger at this point; they’ll wait to be put on the stack until the spell has finished being cast.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2d&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;If the spell requires the player to divide or distribute an effect (such as damage or counters) among one or more targets, the player announces the division.&lt;/strong&gt; Each of these targets must receive at least one of whatever is being divided.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T03:57:49.153" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T03:57:49.153" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27851" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27871" CreationDate="2015-12-08T02:29:42.190" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;One Hit Kill has four component classes. Green is Bio. Red is elemental. In the first expansion, black is Death and purple is Lore. &lt;strong&gt;What are the names of the yellow and blue components?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T15:04:17.643" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:04:17.643" Title="What are the component class names?" Tags="|one-hit-kill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27828" CreationDate="2015-12-08T05:50:08.563" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Too long for a comment) A very important rule of thumb in competitive bidding is the Law of Total Tricks.  This says that, for most hands,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tricks you make in your contract + tricks they make in their contract = number of trumps your partnership has + number of trumps their partnership has&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a further simplification, which says that, in most cases, you should bid to take as many tricks as you have trumps between you (unless you are stronger and can make game or slam).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner needs to be able to know this information as early in the auction as possible in order to jump to the maximum safe level as soon as possible.  Sometimes you need to do this not as a sacrifice, but to keep opponents from finding their sacrifice.  For example, when partner opens 1H, you bid to 4H immediately with x Qxxxx Axxx xxx in part because it makes when partner has xxx AKxxx Kx Axx, and getting there quickly keeps them from finding 4S for down 1 (or 2 if you find the diamond ruff).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence bidding a weak 2 with a 7 card suit is usually a bad idea.  This doesn't mean there are no exceptions.  For example, QTxxxxx QJx Qx x should probably be opened 2S except when favorable, since your red suit holdings and weak trumps suggest the Law is likely to be wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the rule of 2, 3, and 4 suggests opening at the 4 level on AKQxxxx xx xx xx, except when unfavorable.  In practice, I'd open 4S with such a hand only at favorable, and 4H either favorable or in 1st or 3rd seat (but not 2nd).  If it's a minor, I hope I'm playing the version of Gambling 3N that happens to fit my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T05:50:08.563" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26869" CreationDate="2015-12-08T09:41:31.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7698/zoo-quest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;David Attenborough's Zoo Quest&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrqOb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrqOb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Box Lid&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was a board game released about 1960 in which players travel around Africa, from desert to jungle to savannah and capture animals.  The game ends when you get your animals safely to a zoo in Nairobi.  The game was a tie-in to the &lt;em&gt;Zoo Quest&lt;/em&gt; programme running on the BBC at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the version that I have played, which was bought from a charity shop, there is no cardboard mountain in the centre, but that could have been lost over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T09:51:38.587" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T09:51:38.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27854" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-08T11:03:52.270" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T11:03:52.270" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T11:03:52.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27855" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-08T11:03:52.270" Score="0" Body="For questions regarding versions of games that run on Apple computers with the iOS operating system." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T12:27:10.557" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T12:27:10.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27857" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27866" CreationDate="2015-12-08T16:49:16.583" Score="2" ViewCount="450" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have become familiar with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Algebraic_notation_%28chess%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;chess algebraic notation&lt;/a&gt;, and have noticed that all of the software tools I've used to re-create the games so I can create videos of them lack one feature: they never append an exclamation mark &lt;code&gt;!&lt;/code&gt; after a &quot;brilliant move&quot; or a question mark &lt;code&gt;?&lt;/code&gt; after a blunder. Similarly, they don't note an &quot;interesting move&quot; &lt;code&gt;!?&lt;/code&gt; or a &quot;dubious move&quot; &lt;code&gt;?!&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an algorithm which can determine which moves are brilliant/blunders/etc? The only approach I have thus far is using a combination of C++ and MATLAB to calculate the &quot;effective score&quot; at each move in the game, detect peaks and troughs, and then annotate that particular move as a &quot;turning point&quot;. The only problem with this approach, is that if a player deploys a clever, three-move tactic, my algorithm would likely just recognize a move towards the middle/end of the tactic/sequence rather than the &quot;brilliant&quot; move that started it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11918" LastEditorUserId="11918" LastEditDate="2015-12-08T20:06:37.290" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:47:36.503" Title="Annotating &quot;brilliant moves&quot; and &quot;blunders&quot; in chess games" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27859" CreationDate="2015-12-08T17:04:17.680" Score="5" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably a really easy one but if I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Death%20Cloud&quot;&gt;Death Cloud&lt;/a&gt; where X=5 and my opponent only has 4 creatures does Death Cloud get countered because there aren't enough legal targets or does it just force him to sacrifice them all and ignore the last one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T02:45:21.400" Title="What happens to Death Cloud when there aren't enough legal targets" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27858" CreationDate="2015-12-08T17:10:26.527" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Death Cloud does not target. The only time a spell targets is when it says target on the spell (or a keyword on it uses target, eg Enchant X or Support N). Thus Death Cloud will do as much as it can and make them sacrifice all 4 of their creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;609.3.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect attempts to do something impossible, it does only as much as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: If a player is holding only one card, an effect that reads “Discard two cards” causes him or her to discard only that card. If an effect moves cards out of the library (as opposed to drawing), it moves as many as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T02:45:21.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:45:51.867" Score="1" ViewCount="1546" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've purchased Ticket to Ride for iPhone/iPad iOS and I was wondering if I purchase the desktop version for OS X would we be able to play locally between the two devices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14523" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T18:36:35.913" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T18:36:35.913" Title="Ticket to Ride multiplayer between OS X and iOS" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|online|ios|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2015-12-11T16:09:52.103" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27861" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:47:46.110" Score="5" ViewCount="8962" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am playing a game where I have a card in play that makes it so I don't lose from loss of life, and go to -1 life, would I need to gain 2 life in order to be safe &lt;strong&gt;without&lt;/strong&gt; the anti-loss card anymore, or does the negative 'reset' to 0 after damage effects and cards on the stack resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2018-11-29T18:11:12.850" Title="MTG: Is there a lower-limit for life total?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27861" CreationDate="2015-12-08T18:48:52.080" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go to negative life. So if you would go below 0, you keep tracking how much you've lost. If you are at 0 and lose 3, you will be at -3. If you then gain 2, you will be at -1, and would lose the game if you lose your effect that stops you from losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T18:48:52.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27861" CreationDate="2015-12-08T19:42:41.683" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can go into negative life totals. If that doesn't cause you to lose, subsequent events still affect your life total normally: you could gain life back to zero or above, and losing more life will push you further negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beacon%20of%20Immortality&quot;&gt;Beacon of Immortality&lt;/a&gt; confirm this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2/1/2007  If you double a negative life total, you do the real math.  A life total of -10 becomes -20.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7/15/2007     Beacon of Immortality's effect counts as life gain (or life loss, if the life total was negative) for effects that trigger on or replace life gain (or life loss).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, if you're at -1 life, you'd need to gain 2 life to get back to 1 life and be safe without whatever was keeping you from losing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T00:26:33.467" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T00:26:33.467" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27860" CreationDate="2015-12-08T19:46:15.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.daysofwonder.com/online/en/t2r/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game maker's website&lt;/a&gt;, yes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Online Play (WiFi or 3G) against other iPad, Android, Mac and PC gamers with Days of Wonder Online support&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would take that to mean that both device need to be online to contact their server to set things up, but cross-platform isn't an issue.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-12-08T19:46:15.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27857" CreationDate="2015-12-09T09:39:15.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No - there isn't a way to auto-annotate for &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; moves. Strong players often disagree on how to annotate moves using these symbols, particularly when the move is a non-forcing, non-tactical move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not a programmer by any means, but your approach of looking at changes in the effective score is how engines point out blunders, e.g. a significant drop is caused by a loss of time, material or the failure to parry a threat, e.g. mate. Additionally, you might want to look at the evaluation of the position in a few moves time, assuming the best moves are played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, in Ubisoft's Chessmaster, the blunder alert function pops up and says that you've made a blunder because there is a 3 move checkmate coming. Maybe you could contact a chess software developer for ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T09:39:15.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12246" CreationDate="2015-12-09T09:41:11.100" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fool's mate is the quickest way to &lt;em&gt;mate&lt;/em&gt;, not &lt;em&gt;win&lt;/em&gt;. Technically the fastest way to win is for your opponent to resign on the first move or for them to lose on time (e.g. not show up but their clock is running).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T09:41:11.100" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27869" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27870" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:43:37.957" Score="2" ViewCount="708" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25087/do-you-have-to-choose-a-target-for-a-spell-or-can-you-just-cast-it-with-no-targ&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, but without the targeting. Let's say I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=6047&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Penance&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNarset%2c%20Enlightened%20Master%5d&quot;&gt;Narset, Enlightened Master&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, my opponent having nothing but (colorless) lands. It's my turn, combat phase, I attack with Narset, and with her triggered ability still on stack I want to activate Penance in order to put a non-creature, non-land from my hand on top of my library to free cast with Narset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have to choose Narset for Penance's damage prevention?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10440" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:23:30.633" Title="Do I have to &quot;choose&quot; when not targetting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27869" CreationDate="2015-12-09T14:50:59.923" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Narset is the only Red or Black source you will have to choose her when the ability resolves if you activate Penance. The only way you could not make a choice is if there are no Red or Black sources to choose, but you would still be able to activate the ability. Note that the source you choose doesn't have to be something that will ever deal damage, it can be something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Doom%20Blade&quot;&gt;Doom Blade&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aggravated%20Assault&quot;&gt;Aggravated Assault&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2d&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect of a spell or ability offers any choices other than choices already made as part of casting the spell, activating the ability, or otherwise putting the spell or ability on the stack, the player announces these while applying the effect. The player can’t choose an option that’s illegal or impossible, with the exception that having a library with no cards in it doesn’t make drawing a card an impossible action (see rule 120.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;119.7.&lt;/strong&gt; The source of damage is the object that dealt it. If an effect requires a player to choose a source of damage, he or she may choose a permanent; a spell on the stack (including a permanent spell); any object referred to by an object on the stack, by a prevention or replacement effect that’s waiting to apply, or by a delayed triggered ability that’s waiting to trigger (even if that object is no longer in the zone it used to be in); or, in certain casual variant games, a face-up card in the command zone. A source doesn’t need to be capable of dealing damage to be a legal choice. See rule 609.7, “Sources of Damage.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T15:23:30.633" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:23:30.633" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27851" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:03:44.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://app.onehitkillgame.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;web app&lt;/a&gt;. It has a lot of very detailed info about the game, including the names of each component class:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0Qtk.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/j0Qtk.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T15:03:44.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:18:16.817" Score="5" ViewCount="492" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I use Lucky Cigarette Case to increase a fail roll 1 on 2 and thus avoid activating dark pact condition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(2) Lucky Cigarette Case&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Trinket&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once per round, you may add 1 to the result of 1 die when resolving a test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14534" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T22:57:12.673" Title="Can I use Lucky Cigarette Case to avoid activating Dark Pact?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27269" CreationDate="2015-12-09T15:22:23.477" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like people said before, it is easy to play vanilla pandemic with the pandemic legacy box. Moreover, various extra components/rules supplied with the game and gradually revealed through the game make it possible to play many interesting modifications of the game even after you finish the campaign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14469" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-06-19T05:28:18.903" LastActivityDate="2018-06-19T05:28:18.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:07:19.230" Score="1" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play 2 rent cards and an opponent plays a just say no card, how many rents does it cancel? one rent or two? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14535" LastEditorUserId="7128" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T17:56:27.803" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T21:52:19.263" Title="Two pay cards and a Just Say No" Tags="|monopoly-deal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27872" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:30:23.693" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its effect only applies to &lt;em&gt;tests&lt;/em&gt; (where you test one of your Investigator's five skills). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not apply to checks like the Dark Pact condition has (or any other check where you roll a dice without reference to a specific skill).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T16:30:23.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27826" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:33:30.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No that effect is only the effect of the anime card Ra's attack is made by paying life points as read on the card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can pay Life Points so that you only have 100 left; this card&#xA;  gains ATK and DEF equal to the amount of Life Points paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14537" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T16:33:30.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26964" CreationDate="2015-12-09T16:43:04.873" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's make sure we are using the actual Eon texts (the ones given in another answer here are not the originals, as evidenced by the references to &amp;quot;ships&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;encounters&amp;quot;). Here are the originals:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have the &lt;strong&gt;power to torture&lt;/strong&gt;. As the offensive or defensive player, after alliances are formed, you may describe to your opponent a deal (see rules). If he refuses it you may torture him once for every token you have in the challenge. On each torture you put any one of his tokens into the warp, or one of his cards (drawn at random) into the discard pile. If at any time he accepts the deal, stop the torture and conclude the arrangement. If he never accepts, you have lost the challenge and he has won. Follow through with the outcome normally. If initially you elect not to torture, proceed with the challenge normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Super:&lt;/strong&gt; You may stop torturing at any time before your limit is reached and continue with the challenge normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Nothing here says the deal has to be reasonable, or known to be possible. Wrack is not the Mind, so how could he even know with any certainty which deals are possible and which ones are not? While it might be easy to think that it's &amp;quot;unfair&amp;quot; for Wrack to dictate an impossible deal, this is not actually a problem. It's important to remember that if the opponent does not, or can not, accept the deal, then Wrack loses. He loses the challenge, loses his tokens, and (if he is the offense) loses the rest of his turn. He even loses the chance to get rid of a bad challenge card. A Wrack who constantly offers impossible deals is not using his power optimally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The torture is iterative, but this doesn't mean Wrack can change the terms. The guys at Future Pastimes did (and still do) enjoy designing aliens and writing game text to be as flavorful as possible. The reason Wrack tortures one token at a time and gives the opponent another chance to accept after each token is for theme, drama, and tension. The logical thing would be for the victim to make the decision immediately and either accept all or none of the torture, but it doesn't always go down that way, as we will see in a moment. The definitive answer to this question was given by designer/editor Jack Kittredge in &lt;em&gt;Encounter&lt;/em&gt; magazine, volume 1 number 6, on page 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;from Dr. Robert Destro, Willingboro, NJ:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the Wrack. Can he change his deal between token removal? ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ed: ... No, the Wrack can't change his deal because if he could he would propose something horrendous the first few tortures, and then become more reasonable toward the end. It is up to him to come up with something reasonable to start with. Rationally, the victim should consider it and accept or reject it right away and live with the decision. But there is a certain pressure once you actually lose a token or two that is hard to take. You do want the torture to stop. So I've seen a few deals at first rejected but then accepted after a torture or two.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's probably an element of salesmanship skill here, too. If you are the Wrack, ideally you want to propose a deal that is good for you, torture a token or two, and then have your deal accepted. Some taunting, threats, chiding, pointing out unpleasant realities etc. along the way could theoretically help that happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14536" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T16:43:04.873" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20523" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:23:35.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Warp is correct. Any time you are supposed to put ships on colonies but don't have any colonies, your ships go to the warp ... with one exception:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are retrieving a ship from the warp during your own Regroup phase and have no colony to put it on, you instead put it on the hyperspace gate and use it in your encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I do have to ask... when you say the &lt;em&gt;defense&lt;/em&gt; played a negotiate card, did you mean to say &lt;em&gt;both sides&lt;/em&gt; revealed negotiates? Because otherwise, you would not have been required to return your ships to colonies in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14536" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:23:35.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:28:39.510" Score="5" ViewCount="850" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some strong bot-players on KGS (from 4d to 2K).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I saw pachi, ayamc and even gnugo having dan ranks on KGS. I wonder how to  run such a strong bots offline.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried gnugo and aya, both programs did not used even 5% of my CPU, made fast moves (about 1/2 sec per move) and played very weak (about 6K, I think). I did not found any options to make them use more CPU.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried also to run pachi (over GTP, using gogui). Pachi used 100% (6 cores) of my CPU, a lot of RAM but played on about 4K level. It plays a little bit stronger with gigantic fuseki dictionary, but it does not help much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, my question is: Is there way to run strong (2k+) bot locally?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14538" LastEditorUserId="14538" LastEditDate="2015-12-09T18:18:35.193" LastActivityDate="2021-06-21T19:46:36.690" Title="How to run strong Go (baduk) playing program locally?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7023" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:40:05.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a pretty detailed and somewhat graphical rundown of the differences among editions, including comprehensive lists of which version has which aliens, organized both by edition and by alien name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/5174381#5174381&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Cosmodex Appendix C on Boardgame Geek&quot;&gt;Cosmodex Appendix C on Boardgame Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14536" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:40:05.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9736" CreationDate="2015-12-09T17:45:29.623" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends upon which version you are playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Eon:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, Zombie gets compensation. This was stated twice in &lt;em&gt;Encounter&lt;/em&gt; magazine, with the rationale being that Zombie did indeed &lt;em&gt;lose&lt;/em&gt; his ships from the encounter, they just went to other colonies instead of to the warp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mayfair:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes again, although Mayfair flip-flopped their answer twice. Yes, then No, then finally Yes again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fantasy Flight Games:&lt;/strong&gt; No, according to their FAQ. However, some veteran players (myself included) have stated that they ignore this and play according to the original Eon intent. Zombie looks strong to new players, but in practice with veterans is a fairly weak alien when it is not allowed its compensation. However, if you want to play by the book, then it's a No in the FFG edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14536" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T17:45:29.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27857" CreationDate="2015-12-09T19:47:36.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The thing is : some chess programs have a way to compute if the player have made a brilliant move or a blunder. The program I use (Fritz 12) does it with post-game analysis sometimes, so you have to have quite a powerful engine if you want to have this kind of annotations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I think it's more a front-end kind of stuff : you won't see the engine doing this directly. The program that runs in front of the engine and can print the &quot;value&quot; of each move has this value and if there is a drop between the last move and the currently calculated value, it's easy to see the blunder. However, a brilliant move is really hard to detect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And now that we have every single position with up to six pieces in memory, you still have to say what will be the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And as @user1108 said, you could contact a chess programmer to learn more about annotations in chess engines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13091" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T19:47:36.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27885" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27895" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:33:16.240" Score="1" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, say we have the following board setup&lt;br&gt;&#xA;S = Kajia Salix&lt;br&gt;&#xA;B = Karin Brandtford&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;bold&lt;/strong&gt; = Jager's marker   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;oo&lt;strong&gt;S&lt;/strong&gt;Booo&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Karin has an insect token in each discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kajia plays Swarming Drive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Karin plays Howling Grasp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the insect tokens opponents at range 1 or 2 cannot hit Kajia. Karin is at range 1 so she should not be able to hit. However, the attack is coming from Jager's position, which is range 0. Does Karin hit in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T18:58:28.113" Title="How does Kajia's Swarming style work against attacks measured from markers?" Tags="|battlecon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27874" CreationDate="2015-12-09T21:52:19.263" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Just Say No&quot; cancels the effect of a single card. So if you have two rent cards to play, you should play them one at at time to see if your opponent plays JSN to each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T21:52:19.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27828" CreationDate="2015-12-09T22:18:07.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two important points:&#xA;1. What does your partner expects, when you open 2/3/4 spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my partner opens weak two, i expect a hand almost enough to open 1sp.&#xA;i explain to all my students: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;open with reasonable suit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;think: &quot;what if your partner has other major?&quot;. Do you like to miss it? KQJ9xx, xxxx, Kx, x  - it's ok to open 2sp, KQxxxx, Jxxx, Kx, x - pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what are you trying to preempt?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;never open weak two with 7 or less losers - it's easy to miss a game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opening 3 level is different. Your partner does not count HCP, losers, etc. He(she) counts your tricks. That's it. So you must agree trick range according to vulnerability and seat. Second seat should be a bit stronger than 1st. 3rd seat is free for gambling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you open 2sp with AKQxxxx, you underbid, hugely. So probably you would like to bid your preempt one more time, and this is a very bad style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for example what would you bid: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2sp (3he) pass - (pass)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2sp (3he)  3sp - (4he)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2sp (4he) 4sp  - (5he)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in any case you must guess &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;may be partner has 2(or even 3) tricks with 2spades(and he cannot bid according to TNT) or, may be, opponent to your left has maximum hand and RHO misguessed...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you think that partner should bid 3sp with 2sp and 2-3 tricks - you should not bid 4sp here. But, agree, looks strange to pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what now? Looks like you should pass, but you pass with bad feeling. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, summary of my answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;vulnerable all seats - I open 3 sp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;love all - 2nd seat  - 3sp, 1st,3rd seat i guess. 1 spade is main choice, 4sp is possible if i see some tells from opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;none against vul - 1sp or 4sp any seat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14150" LastActivityDate="2015-12-09T22:18:07.400" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27889" CreationDate="2015-12-10T02:34:38.833" Score="4" ViewCount="2163" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I tap a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; for its ability and the creature is destroyed in response with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ultimate%20Price&quot;&gt;Ultimate Price&lt;/a&gt;? And why? (a brief explanation will suffice)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may sound as a silly question but the opinion between my friends is divided. Some think that the green mana is generated and the others say that the mana is not generated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T03:11:47.237" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T19:00:20.803" Title="Can an opponent bolt a mana-generating creature to stop me from generating mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2015-12-10T16:10:56.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27888" CreationDate="2015-12-10T02:49:46.720" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent would be better off waiting until later in your turn to kill your dork.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Llanowar%20Elves&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt; has a &lt;em&gt;mana ability&lt;/em&gt;. This doesn't go on the stack, and thus cannot be responded to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;605.3b An activated mana ability doesn't go on the stack, so it can't be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated. (See rule 405.6c.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your opponent doesn't even get the chance to bolt your creature before you get your mana. He can only bolt once he has priority, which presumably you won't pass until you perform whatever action it was you were tapping for mana for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But even if it were a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nettle%20Drone&quot;&gt;Nettle Drone&lt;/a&gt;, the ability would go on the stack, and when it resolved the damage would still be dealt. The ability itself will never be countered solely on the actions of your opponent, short of a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; effect that specifically counters the ability. It would only get countered if it would have got countered anyway (lack of targets, illegal targets).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your opponent would be best off waiting to bolt your dude. You might play a creature that he'd rather bolt instead, or you might do something else that he might want to use the mana for. Once it's tapped, it would have to be untapped (something that -can- be responded to) and then he could bolt. If nothing else, he can bolt on end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2015-12-10T19:00:20.803" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T19:00:20.803" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27880" CreationDate="2015-12-10T15:48:34.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think you're going to get any better free versions. If you purchase a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.remi-coulom.fr/CrazyStone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crazy Stone&lt;/a&gt; as mafu suggested it may be stronger. If you like the way those bots play and want an offline version it's probably worth trying it out, as that's the engine that several bots use. However, I say may be stronger because I am not sure that the commercial version is the same as the version run for KGS bots. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have no experience with Crazy Stone as GnuGo can still regularly beat me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12271" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T15:48:34.957" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:02:39.797" Score="3" ViewCount="1047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just read the paper &lt;a href=&quot;http://arxiv.org/pdf/1511.06410v1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Better Computer Go Player with Neural Network and Long-term Prediction&lt;/a&gt; which seems to make a big step in direction of getting a better algorithm playing Go than any human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0eaa.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/v0eaa.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://xkcd.com/1002/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;xkcd.com/1002&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I was wondering how the game could be changed to something which is well-defined and where humans are still much better than computers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a Go variant on an infinite board exist?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One would have to play it with a computer, of course. Having such an infinite board (of which only the parts which were looked at are calculated, of course) isn't really a programming problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the boundaries seem to be important, one could add random borders to the game. The winning criterion could be an absolute / relative difference in points. What would be the implications of such a game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another idea would be to make a (pseudo-)fractal board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastEditorUserId="7213" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T19:18:54.587" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T21:59:35.127" Title="Does a Go variant on an infinite board exist?" Tags="|go|variants|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27892" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27896" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:15:27.663" Score="3" ViewCount="423" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have two questions about the NBN agenda Quantum Predictive Model, its text reads: &lt;strong&gt;If Quantum Predictive Model is accessed from R&amp;amp;D, the Runner must reveal it.&#xA;If the Runner is tagged when Quantum Predictive Model is accessed, add it to your score area.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first is this: If the runner is tagged and has Film Critic (&lt;strong&gt;Relevent text: Whenever you access an agenda, you may host that agenda on Film Critic (the agenda is no longer being accessed and is uninstalled)&lt;/strong&gt;). installed and then they access QPM, who gets the agenda?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My second question: If QPM is installed by Casting Call (text: &lt;strong&gt;Install an agenda from HQ faceup and install Casting Call on that agenda as a hosted condition counter with text &quot;Whenever the Runner accesses this agenda, he or she takes 2 tags.&quot;&lt;/strong&gt;) and the runner accesses it, who gets the agenda?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13439" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T19:46:24.303" Title="Quantum Predictive Model Questions" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27893" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:44:28.317" Score="4" ViewCount="532" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a wooden felt-lined tray with twelve wooden toggles--for lack of a better term--across one of the long sides.  They are numbered one through twelve, and you can flip them up or down.  Same numbers on both sides of each.  Also has two dice. It appears that the dice are intended to be thrown into the tray, and then something is to be done with the wooden numbers. That's it.  Anyone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14552" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T13:33:28.100" Title="Wooden felt-lined tray with numbers" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27893" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:46:17.167" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you are looking for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shut_the_Box&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shut the Box&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSpxJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WSpxJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Shut The Box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2017-06-01T13:33:28.100" LastActivityDate="2017-06-01T13:33:28.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27885" CreationDate="2015-12-10T18:58:28.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Howling just calculates range from Jager's position, it doesn't change where Karin is.  Swarming checks Karin's position when determining whether or not you can hit, so the attack misses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14441" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T18:58:28.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27892" CreationDate="2015-12-10T19:16:32.680" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The important rule here is that when multiple triggers happen off the same event the active player's triggers happen first. And a player gets to choose the order in which effects they control happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The first question depends on whose turn it is when the runner accesses QPM.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During runner's turn the runner would be able to place QPM on Film Critic. Since both cards have the same trigger - &amp;quot;when accessed&amp;quot; - the person who's turn it is goes first, so Film Critic would take priority.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;However, if the runner somehow accessed QPM while tagged on the corps turn (such as with &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08091&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;An Offer You Can't Refuse&lt;/a&gt;) then the corp would score it, because on the corps turn QPM would take priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strike&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The second question the corp gets to choose who gets the agenda.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both Casting Call and QPM have the same trigger of &amp;quot;when accessed&amp;quot; and both are controlled by the corp, the corp player chooses the order of resolution. Most corps would pick Casting Call to resolve first, giving the runner tags and then resolving QPM to give themselves the point. However, there are a few situations where the corp might want to let the runner steal it, (such as landing &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02116&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Midseasons&lt;/a&gt;) in which case they let QPM resolve first and give the runner the point.&lt;/strike&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The runner would steal QPM as they are not tagged at the time of access.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://ancur.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ_2.2/Page_17,_Column_2,_Paragraph_5&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; If a Runner with no tags accesses a Quantum Predictive Model that hosts Casting Call, does the Corp score the Quantum Predictive Model?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer:&lt;/strong&gt; No. The Quantum Predictive Model does not resolve if the Runner is not tagged when the access occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T19:46:24.303" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27891" CreationDate="2015-12-10T20:03:31.057" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are variants like 3 dimensional Go, which may be interesting to you.  However, from personal experience as well as seeing higher dans struggle, I'd guess humans are far worse at them than computers :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not aware of any kind of &quot;infinite&quot; Go that is even remotely playable. The basic problems are ladders, which need to end, and counting, which requires complete separation of space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, infinite Go could be achieved via a sequence of spaces that interact, either hierarchically or flat. You could define that a ladder may not leave its subspace etc. Play could either be simultaneous in all subspaces, or in only a selected (number of) subspace(s). While this seems borderline theoretical computing science, I believe it would provide a gameplay quite similar to the original, just with certain additions that make turns a lot more complex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:03:31.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16813" CreationDate="2015-12-10T20:32:41.110" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In other words, yes the Parasite can use his power in that situation. He only loses his home colonies &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; he has initiated the action of using his power, and by then it's already under way. Once you start using your power, you don't have to constantly check to make sure that all the conditions for initiating it are still in effect. (It would actually be a problem if it did work that way, since the results of some powers actually change the very conditions that allowed the power to fire in the first place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14536" LastActivityDate="2015-12-10T20:32:41.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27899" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27900" CreationDate="2015-12-10T21:37:13.583" Score="4" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the highest possible power of a creature, assuming a deck of 60 cards and infinite time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T08:41:28.220" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:43:30.787" Title="Highest possible power of a creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27900" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27899" CreationDate="2015-12-10T21:56:49.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arbitrarily large.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not that hard to create a combo with a small number of cards that increases a creature's power without bound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPili-Pala%5d&quot;&gt;Pili-Pala&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrand%20Architect%5d&quot;&gt;Grand Architect&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGhave%2c%20Guru%20of%20Spores%5d&quot;&gt;Ghave, Guru of Spores&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoubling%20Season%5d&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first two create infinite mana (use Grand Architect to make Pili-Pala blue, tap Pili-Pala for {2} with Grand Architect's ability, pay those {2} and untap Pili-Pala for 1 mana of any color, and repeat). Then you can pay {1} and remove a counter from Ghave to put 2 tokens into play (due to Doubling Season), then pay {1} and sacrifice one of those tokens to put 2 counters on Ghave (due to Doubling Season). The end result is an arbitrarily large number of +1/+1 counters on Ghave and an arbitrarily large number of tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that you don't need infinite time (or even O(n) time) to give a creature arbitrarily large power, using this combo or just about any other. The Magic rules allow players to take shortcuts, as described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Taking_shortcuts&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 719&lt;/a&gt;. The specific rule that is relevant here is 719.2a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. &lt;strong&gt;This sequence may be a non-repetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns.&lt;/strong&gt; It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;A player controls a creature enchanted by Presence of Gond, which grants the creature the ability “{T}: Put a 1/1 green Elf Warrior creature token onto the battlefield,” and another player controls Intruder Alarm, which reads, in part, “Whenever a creature enters the battlefield, untap all creatures.” When the player has priority, he may suggest “I’ll create a million tokens,” indicating the sequence of activating the creature’s ability, all players passing priority, letting the creature’s ability resolve and put a token onto the battlefield (which causes Intruder Alarm’s ability to trigger), Intruder Alarm’s controller putting that triggered ability on the stack, all players passing priority, Intruder Alarm’s triggered ability resolving, all players passing priority until the player proposing the shortcut has priority, and repeating that sequence 999,999 more times, ending just after the last token-creating ability resolves.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the example they use isn't exactly the same, but it means that I could do the same thing with the combo I described by saying &amp;quot;I'll create a million tokens and put a million counters on Ghave&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-04-06T14:43:30.787" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27902" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27911" CreationDate="2015-12-10T22:22:53.233" Score="5" ViewCount="7593" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have gathered 3 players (including myself) for Pandemic Legacy and we are eager to begin, but I'm wondering whether I should take the time to find a 4th. I've played Risk Legacy with 4 and it was a great experience. I'm somewhat concerned that the 3-player version of Pandemic Legacy won't be as deep or engaging as the 4-player version. This is just speculation, however, I have no evidence to back this up. Hence this question. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14553" LastEditorUserId="14553" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T04:18:52.007" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T04:18:52.007" Title="Is Pandemic Legacy as good with 3 players as it is with 4?" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27904" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:03:53.373" Score="19" ViewCount="17815" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, basically what the title says. Is there any difference at all in the contents of the boxes or anything else? (without spoilers!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe it'll make a difference in &quot;Season 2&quot;? (it does say &quot;Season 1&quot; on the box after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14469" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T18:50:48.607" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T18:50:48.607" Title="What's the difference between Pandemic Legacy Red and Blue?" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27903" CreationDate="2015-12-11T01:35:00.807" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The contents of the two boxes are identical. The Red and Blue boxes are for people who want to run two campaigns at the same time - for example, with two different gaming groups - to help distinguish between the games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T01:35:00.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27906" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-11T04:14:57.033" Score="6" ViewCount="11495" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've seen some cards that say &quot;remove from the game&quot;. For example, an old version of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSwords%20to%20Plowshares%5d&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;remove target creature from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does that mean? Is it different from &quot;exile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-22T17:24:38.297" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T15:01:12.420" Title="What does &quot;removed from the game&quot; mean?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27906" CreationDate="2015-12-11T04:14:57.033" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Remove from the game&amp;quot; means &amp;quot;exile&amp;quot;, and all cards that say it have been given errata to say exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swords%20to%20Plowshares&quot;&gt;Swords to Plowshares&lt;/a&gt; in newer printings reads &amp;quot;Exile target creature.&amp;quot; And no matter what, the Oracle text for cards (the card text shown on Gatherer) will always have the correct wording with &amp;quot;exile&amp;quot;, even if the card has never been physically reprinted to fix it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a historical reference in the comp rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;406.7. Previously, the exile zone was called the &amp;quot;removed-from-the-game zone.&amp;quot; Cards that were printed with text that &amp;quot;removes [an object] from the game&amp;quot; exiles that object. The same is true for cards printed with text that &amp;quot;sets [an object] aside.&amp;quot; Cards that were printed with that text have received errata in the Oracle card reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, this change was made in &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20160120014846/http://archive.wizards.com/Magic/magazine/article.aspx?x=mtg/daily/feature/42a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Magic 2010 rules update&lt;/a&gt;. One of the big reasons for the change (besides &amp;quot;exile&amp;quot; just being shorter) was to try to clarify that they're not 100% for sure forever removed from the game, since that's not really true in general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Reality:&lt;/strong&gt; &amp;quot;Removed from the game&amp;quot; is increasingly a misnomer as we design more cards that use the removed-from-the-game zone as a temporary holding cell for cards that are very much still in the game. Like the &amp;quot;in-play zone,&amp;quot; the name &amp;quot;removed-from-the-game zone&amp;quot; does a poor job of maintaining the game's fantasy metaphor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Fix:&lt;/strong&gt; The phrase &amp;quot;remove from the game&amp;quot; is being changed to &amp;quot;exile,&amp;quot; which is shorter, more flavorful, and not at all misleading about actually being in the game. The zone is now called the &amp;quot;exile zone&amp;quot; and cards in it will be referred to as &amp;quot;exiled cards.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that some cards do still refer to &amp;quot;outside the game&amp;quot; (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning%20Wish&quot;&gt;Burning Wish&lt;/a&gt;). This has absolutely nothing to do with exile, which is a zone that is part of the game. &amp;quot;Outside the game&amp;quot; in tournaments means sideboards, i.e. actually totally outside the game, wasn't in your deck in the first place. In casual play it could mean your collection or something more restricted, depending on who you play with. Either way, they don't work with exiled cards. They used to back when it was called &amp;quot;remove from the game&amp;quot;, but it was changed in the same rules update.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-15T15:01:12.420" LastActivityDate="2022-07-15T15:01:12.420" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27902" CreationDate="2015-12-11T08:25:09.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on the same boat...&#xA;We decided that it was better for us to start playing with 3 players than to wait for a fourth one that can be as available and motivated as the 3 of us (and possibly never play at all)...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We didn't start playing yet, but here are the way we envision it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The fourth spot might become available for a friend of us who would want to try the game but can't commit to the full campaign (think of it like guest-stars in the Muppet Show back in the day)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if we feel like the game is less fun without the 4th pawn/character, as everything is open information (that's my understanding from reading the rules), we can still add it and decide collectively for its actions...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T17:08:39.523" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T17:08:39.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27891" CreationDate="2015-12-11T09:26:56.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a Go variant without boundaries (but, of course, on a finite board): Torus Go. It is sometimes played in Go clubs or as a side event on Go tournaments. On a traditional board I find it very hard to visualise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T09:26:56.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27902" CreationDate="2015-12-11T14:15:25.690" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've played the game with both 3 and 4 in the same campaign.  It didn't affect the feel of the game either way.  For a variety of reasons you likely won't play the same characters in every mission anyway, so there is no reason that you can't add or drop someone part way through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T14:15:25.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2015-12-11T15:05:46.170" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 716.3 does not apply because there is not a point after any group of independent actions, or recognized shortcut, where the game state is the same as a previous game state. Every time the exercise is preformed, the Nantuko Shade power and toughness are increased by +1/+1 or black mana has been added to a players mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that, each players could define a shortcut where they pump their Nantuko Shade at least once more than his or her opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Failing the existence of an card or effect, external to these five creatures in play, that could be used to remove or disable one of them, the actions can continue unabated until one player freely decides to not pump his or her Nantuko Shade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The further contention arises from the result of this chain of events on tournament play. Since game state changes, and each player has an interest in winning the conflict, it would be hard to call this slow play. Since it happens in the course of combat, the game won't end by going to turns. In the end, one player will have to agree to pump his Nantuko Shade less than his opponent, on the assumption that they can win the game through other means still in their deck, and that is preferential to having the match end in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T15:44:15.580" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T15:44:15.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27914" CreationDate="2015-12-11T15:48:31.100" Score="8" ViewCount="6212" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quagmire%20Druid&quot;&gt;Quagmire Druid&lt;/a&gt; as my only Creature. My opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curse%20of%20the%20Bloody%20Tome&quot;&gt;Curse of the Bloody Tome&lt;/a&gt;. Can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quagmire%20Druid&quot;&gt;Quagmire Druid&lt;/a&gt; to destroy &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curse%20of%20the%20Bloody%20Tome&quot;&gt;Curse of the Bloody Tome&lt;/a&gt;, sacrificing itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T23:56:35.397" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T12:05:04.443" Title="Can a creature sacrifice itself?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27913" CreationDate="2015-12-11T15:53:34.093" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since it doesn't say &amp;quot;sacrifice another,&amp;quot; like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blazing%20Hellhound&quot;&gt;Blazing Hellhound&lt;/a&gt;, you are permitted to sacrifice &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quagmire%20Druid&quot;&gt;Quagmire Druid&lt;/a&gt; to pay for its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T23:54:57.253" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T23:54:57.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27916" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27919" CreationDate="2015-12-11T19:18:15.760" Score="0" ViewCount="1710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVerdant%20Succession%5d&quot;&gt;Verdant Succession&lt;/a&gt; with only one copy of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWorldspine%20Wurm%5d&quot;&gt;Worldspine Wurm&lt;/a&gt; in my deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worldspine Wurm automatically goes back in the library &lt;em&gt;when it is put into the graveyard.&lt;/em&gt; Verdant Succession lets me look for a copy of a creature in my library and put it into play &lt;em&gt;when a creature dies.&lt;/em&gt; So, does Worldspine Wurm end up back in my library in time for me to search for it, or no?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, how would this be different with a creature that says &lt;em&gt;if it would&lt;/em&gt; be put into a graveyard, it gets put back into my library &lt;em&gt;instead&lt;/em&gt;, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDarksteel%20Colossus%5d&quot;&gt;Darksteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt;, instead of just saying &lt;em&gt;when&lt;/em&gt; like Worldspine Wurm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2019-02-02T18:39:32.450" LastActivityDate="2019-02-02T18:39:32.450" Title="What triggers/resolves first, an effect from a creature dying or an effect from a creature going into the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27916" CreationDate="2015-12-11T19:30:03.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the player controlling both effects, since &quot;put into the graveyard&quot; and &quot;a creature dies&quot; define the same thing, you decide the order in which they are put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place the effect from Verdant Succession on the stack first, and Worldspire Wurm's effect on top of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Worldspire Wurm will resolve first, putting it into the library. Next, Verdant Succession will resolve, looking for a card of the same name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Worldspire Wurm, Verdant Succession, and a sacrifice outlet, you could make infinite 5/5's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Darksteel Colossus, it is a replacement effect instead of a triggered effect. It never touches the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T19:30:03.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27916" CreationDate="2015-12-11T19:30:38.043" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose the order in which the abilities resolve, so you will be able to search for the Worldspine Wurm with Verdant Succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/General_(Additional_rules)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 700.4&lt;/a&gt; defines &quot;dies&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Worlspine Wurm's ability triggers &quot;when Worldspine Wurm is put into a graveyard from anywhere&quot; and Verdant Succession's ability triggers &quot;whenever a green nontoken creature [is put into a graveyard from the battlefield]&quot;. So, of course, if a Worldspine Wurm is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, both of those conditions are met, so both aiblities trigger simultaneously. Then &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Handling_triggered_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 603.3b&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack &lt;em&gt;in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you choose to put the Worldspine Wurm's ability on the stack on top of the Verdant Succession's ability, the Wurm's ability will resolve first and it will move to the library, then the Verdant Succession's ability will resolve and you will be able to search for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Worldspine Wurm's ability was instead worded like the ability on Darksteel Colossus, then it would be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;replacement effect&lt;/a&gt; (the key word indicating that is &quot;instead&quot;). In that case, it would go to the library &lt;em&gt;instead of&lt;/em&gt; the graveyard, so, as the definition above implies, it never &quot;dies&quot; and Verdant Succession's ability never triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to note that if the Verdant Succession and Worldspine Wurm are controlled by different players, the outcome of the Worldspine Wurm dying will depend on whose turn it is instead of any choices a player might make. Rule 603.3b says that triggered abilities controlled by different players are put on the stack in APNAP order, which is defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/The_magic_golden_rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 101.4&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required, followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the abilities are put on the stack in turn order starting with the active player, so they resolve in reverse turn order. If that resolution order happens to make the Worldspine Wurm's ability resolve first, you can find it when searching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-11T20:36:28.287" LastActivityDate="2015-12-11T20:36:28.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27920" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T02:16:20.890" Score="2" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've head the term Alpha Strike used frequently, usually to refer to a single massive attack or a single round of heavy attacks, and I'm wondering where the term originated in board gaming and its history in gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for its origin or history in actual gaming rule books or gaming reference material, not just shared verbiage among players, nor am I looking for information outside of gaming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The earliest reference that I'm personally aware of is in the old FASA BattleTech rules, but are there earlier references than this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastEditorUserId="5463" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T15:48:55.837" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:48:55.837" Title="What is the origin of the term &quot;Alpha Strike&quot; in board gaming?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27920" CreationDate="2015-12-12T04:43:37.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems very likely to have originated in the US Navy, and referred to the practice of committing all of a carrier's air resources to a single mission rather than rotating them as per usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the wikipedia entry &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_strike_%28United_States_Navy%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T04:43:37.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27922" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T07:15:46.667" Score="5" ViewCount="2142" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the infect cities step, if an outbreak occurs and causes a chain reaction, then another city card is pulled which was involed in the chain reaction, does the chain reaction occur a second time? This can bump the outbreak track up very quickly (i.e. 0-8 in a turn). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14569" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T07:34:58.327" Title="Pandemic chain reactions" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27922" CreationDate="2015-12-12T07:34:58.327" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards you draw to infect cities are independant from one another.&#xA;Let's say the infection rate is 2. You first flip one card, infect the corresponding city (eventually managing outbreaks) then you flip the second one and follow the same process. If the second city is close to the first one and in the same color, odds are that cities that got an outbreak due to the first card will get another one... Nasty indeed...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The limit is one outbreak per city per chain reaction, not an outbreak per city per Infection phase...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/27536/pandemic-rules-permission-z-man-games&quot;&gt;the Rules&lt;/a&gt; (Classic Pandemic p.7):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw cards from the Infection Draw Pile equal to the current Infection Rate and add one cube to the pictured cities,&#xA;  using a cube of the same color as each card. Resolve the cards in the order you draw them. If, however, the pictured city&#xA;  is of a color that has been eradicated, do not add a cube. If a city already has 3 cubes in it of the color being added,&#xA;  instead of adding a cube to the city, an outbreak occurs in that color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If any of these new cubes would cause the total number of cubes of that color in an adjacent city to exceed 3, additional&#xA;  outbreaks may occur, causing a chain reaction. Note that each city may only outbreak once in each chain reaction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T07:34:58.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27980" CreationDate="2015-12-12T07:51:28.890" Score="6" ViewCount="837" Body="&lt;p&gt;When instructed to gain a random Ally card, if the asset deck and discard do not have any ally cards (and the reserve has 1), can I take the Ally from the reserve?  The rulings of interest are from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under Gaining Possessions and Conditions, the guide says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gaining a Card with a Specific Trait:&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects instruct an investigator to gain a card with a specific trait (for example, “Gain a Madness Condition”). The investigator searches that card type’s deck then discard pile for the first card matching the specified trait and gains that card. Then he shuffles the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; say you can take a card from the reserve, but it also is speaking of not just the asset cards but others, such as conditions, spells, etc, so the omitted mention of the reserve could be a candidate for clarification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guide says, for specific cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gaining a Specific Card:&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects instruct an investigator to gain a specific card by name (for example, “Gain an Axe Asset”). The investigator searches that card type’s deck then discard pile for the first card matching the specified name and gains that card. Then he shuffles the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•  If the named card is in the reserve, the investigator gains that card instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for a specific card the reserve is game, but to the letter of the rules, the directive was to gain a card with a specific trait, not a specific card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My house rule on this was to allow the reserve to provide the ally card, and if there were more than one, for it to be drawn randomly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T00:51:09.993" Title="Can I gain a random Ally card from the reserve if the deck and discard do not have one?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27924" CreationDate="2015-12-12T09:04:38.273" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find anything specifically about this in the rules or in any official rule clarifications. Given that I'd go with a &lt;strong&gt;strict reading&lt;/strong&gt; of the rules and only allow a random ally to be drawn from the deck or (if none in the deck) the discard pile as per the section you quote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When in doubt, applying the rules literally is usually the correct option. Especially, if it makes things harder for your Investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastEditorUserId="13233" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T09:30:07.510" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T09:30:07.510" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27928" CreationDate="2015-12-12T14:46:12.110" Score="2" ViewCount="1125" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kill%21%20Destroy%21&quot;&gt;Kill! Destroy!&lt;/a&gt; on my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caldera%20Kavu&quot;&gt;Caldera Kavu&lt;/a&gt;, can I activate its ability to turn it black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastEditorDisplayName="user13999" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T15:25:42.717" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T17:11:57.443" Title="Can I activate abilities in response to spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27927" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27929" CreationDate="2015-12-12T14:55:09.100" Score="15" ViewCount="7033" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say Medic got to Paris with 3 blue cubes but didn't have enough action to remove cubes, and a next player cures blue. Do we get to remove those blue cubes from Paris right away or do we wait till Medic's next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14430" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-05T04:48:10.020" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T04:48:10.020" Title="Does the Medic need to wait until their next turn to remove cubes when another player researches a cure?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27928" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27926" CreationDate="2015-12-12T15:23:14.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  You can activate an ability (unless restricted) any time you have priority. Once the spell is on the stack, you place the ability of Caldera Kavu on top. That resolves first, so Kavu is black. Then Kill! Destroy! rechecks the targeting. Since it is invalid, it fizzles and is countered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]” A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2015-12-12T17:11:57.443" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T17:11:57.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27927" CreationDate="2015-12-12T16:00:12.197" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blue cubes in Paris are removed immediately:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/27536/pandemic-rules-permission-z-man-games&quot;&gt;the Rules&lt;/a&gt; (Classic Pandemic p.5), emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Medic removes all cubes, not 1, of the same color when doing the Treat Disease action. &lt;strong&gt;If a disease has been cured, he automatically removes all cubes of that color from a city, simply by entering it or being there&lt;/strong&gt;. This does not take an action.&#xA;  The Medic also prevents placing disease cubes (and outbreaks) of cured&#xA;  diseases in his location. &lt;strong&gt;The Medic's automatic removal of cubes also&#xA;  happens during other players' turns&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T16:00:12.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27920" CreationDate="2015-12-12T18:54:52.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To build on Andrew's answer and link, the idea of an &quot;Alpha Strike&quot; is to try to win the game with one blow, as opposed to over several turns or a period of time that may give the opposition a chance to recover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine if instead of just attacking &quot;Pearl Harbor,&quot; Japan tried to attack all U.S. ships in all ports at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-12T18:54:52.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T19:13:47.283" Score="5" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;If anyone could help I would love to find the name of this game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aUaJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aUaJm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Black stacking game with rotating sides&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you stack the block the blocked the sides on the block below rotate and they change color (see the stickers) and there are four &quot;bases&quot; or the bottoms in total.  Have been searching the internet for hours now to no avail, hoping someone has seen this before!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14570" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T13:28:58.407" LastActivityDate="2019-06-12T07:44:16.883" Title="What is this stacking game with rotating coloured sides?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27932" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-12T19:18:27.783" Score="-1" ViewCount="1079" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is about the game Guillotine, and has two (somewhat related) parts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1a) If you forget to draw an action card at the end of your turn, can you do so after the next person has started his/her turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1b) If you get the card that allows you to swap hands with another player, can you whittle down your hand by willingly &quot;forget&quot; to draw an action card and then play the 'swap hands' card? (a villainous move indeed!) :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14571" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T08:59:12.180" Title="Guillotine: Swapping hands and drawing cards - evil move!" Tags="|guillotine|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2015-12-13T02:40:37.460" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could also be as simple as the timber blocks not being perfectly strait, very slight random bowing of the timber could be enough to make them slightly different in size and reduce friction when sliding the blocks out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im currently making a set with 30x70x210 blocks, and running them through a thicknesser planer to get them all smooth and the same size, some of the lengths of pine are a bit bowed, so hopefully this helps randomize sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ill post back once its finished, hopefully this works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14574" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T02:40:37.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27936" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27937" CreationDate="2015-12-13T10:54:54.627" Score="4" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for good Risk strategy suggestions. I tried a couple of things like conquering smaller and easier continents, going for territories which I have a card for but none of this yielded awesome results. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any help from a guru? &#xA;Thanks &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14578" LastEditorUserId="14605" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T06:47:39.333" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T06:47:39.333" Title="Good Risk strategy suggestion?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-14T04:41:48.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27936" CreationDate="2015-12-13T16:27:24.120" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_nNoyNZsfTULBuGg9j94Bg&quot;&gt;HistoryGamerDotCom&lt;/a&gt; has a 9 part YouTube tutorial on Risk strategy. To (grossly) simplify the content:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aim for a non-isolated, not too large continent in the beginning of the game, e.g. South America&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Know the chances of winning an attack. Three attackers to two defenders is my preferred ratio, as the chance of victory is high but without wasting resources&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep an eye on people's risk cards, as this is an indication of when people are going to get a large reinforcement influx. As a general rule with many exceptions, try to delay cashing yours in, as the reinforcement count for cashing in risk cards increases over time. Note in the base game you do not gain anything extra from cashing in the risk card of a country you occupy, but I have seen computer versions that do this&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diplomacy is key! Regularly make pacts so that you won't be ganged up on. Be willing to give a little to get a little, e.g. you might want to under defend one country to keep one player on side&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use your reinforcement move to shore up your weaknesses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't try to expand too quickly, and don't feel you need to attack every turn. This may leave you vulnerable to a sweeping counter attack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorDisplayName="user10232" LastEditDate="2015-12-13T16:35:17.150" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T16:35:17.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-13T19:36:35.833" Score="3" ViewCount="980" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karlov%20of%20the%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Karlov of the Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Warden&quot;&gt;Soul Warden&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and I cast something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lingering%20Souls&quot;&gt;Lingering Souls&lt;/a&gt;, does Karlov get two +1/+1 counters twice since two spirits enter the battlefield or only once since I cast Lingering Souls once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same thing applies to beautiful cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conqueror%27s%20Pledge&quot;&gt;Conqueror&amp;#39;s Pledge&lt;/a&gt; - does Karlov get two +1/+1 counters six times or only once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14580" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T15:52:33.837" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:52:33.837" Title="Will Karlov get multiple +1/+1 counters with Soul Warden when multiple tokens are created simultaneously?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27938" CreationDate="2015-12-13T20:04:54.313" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Soul Warden's ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield, you gain 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Lingering Souls resolves, there are two separate instances of &quot;another creature&quot; entering the battlefield, and so the ability triggers twice, and you gain 1 life twice in two separate events.  Thus, Karlov's ability will trigger twice, and he will gain four +1/+1 counters.  Likewise, using Conqueror's Pledge instead will net you 6 life and twelve counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare rule 603.2c and its example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2c An ability triggers only once each time its trigger event occurs. However, it can trigger repeatedly if one event contains multiple occurrences. See also rule 509.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: A permanent has an ability whose trigger condition reads, “Whenever a land is put into a graveyard from the battlefield, . . . .” If someone casts a spell that destroys all lands, the ability will trigger once for each land put into the graveyard during the spell’s resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2015-12-13T20:04:54.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27947" CreationDate="2015-12-14T01:28:42.247" Score="3" ViewCount="537" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I march into a territory that has either some routed units, or a siege engine (both having zero combat strength). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this start a full combat resolution- ie calling for support, playing house cards, or are the units instantly destroyed without combat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems very plausible that if a combat round is necessary, the routed/siege units could still win the battle with support and house cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T14:55:09.113" Title="Does attacking zero strength units (eg. routed units, siege engines) require a full combat resolution?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T02:24:51.913" Score="0" ViewCount="596" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rules question for you all. I run &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teysa%2C%20Orzhov%20Scion&quot;&gt;Teysa, Orzhov Scion&lt;/a&gt; and many black/white creatures in my decks, and I'm wondering if I can sacrifice a black/white creature for her exile ability, and then sacrifice the white spirit token that I get for having a black creature go to the graveyard towards that same instance of her exile ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, do I have to sacrifice all of the creatures at the same time, or can I, for example, sacrifice two, play a third, and then sacrifice that one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14587" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T02:48:45.207" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:23:32.493" Title="Teysa, Orzhov Scion sacrificing one creature multiple times to exhile" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27944" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27943" CreationDate="2015-12-14T02:47:38.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;All costs have to be paid for the ability to go on the stack. In this case, you have to sacrifice all 3 creatures at the same time to get the exile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T02:47:38.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27943" CreationDate="2015-12-14T04:23:32.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cost must be payed all at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered ability that provides the Spirit token would not be placed on the stack, much less resolve, before you finish activating the ability. This happens the next time a player would get priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, you will not have a Spirit token to sacrifice before you finish activating the ability, which means you won't have a Spirit token to sacrifice to activate the ability, which means you are unable to activate the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T04:23:32.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27942" CreationDate="2015-12-14T14:55:09.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, there is still combat.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/30/4f/304f72e3-4fe4-4f91-bfbe-75133161b092/va65_agot2_rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; don't specifically mention attacking into a region with only routed units. Therefore we follow the default instructions: if you march into a region with enemy units, you have a combat. As you say, it's &lt;em&gt;plausible&lt;/em&gt; that a routed army could win (which is good; if you don't want to lose the units, you can &quot;waste&quot; your good cards and support orders for the turn to keep them alive&quot;), but obviously the attacker with units contributing to battle will have an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T14:55:09.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27948" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T15:14:58.277" Score="3" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;when I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karlov%20of%20the%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Karlov of the Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Righteous%20Cause&quot;&gt;Righteous Cause&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and I attack with three creatures, does Karlos get six +1/+1 counters or only two counters since the creatures attack simultaneously?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure whether the word &amp;quot;whenever&amp;quot; triggers for each creature or whether the attack counts as one trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you again!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14590" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-12-14T15:16:04.883" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:20:12.503" Title="Karlov of the Ghost Council and multiple counters" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27948" CreationDate="2015-12-14T15:20:12.503" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Karlov will get 6 +1/+1 counters with Righteous Cause. This is because the trigger says &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever a creature attacks&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, so it triggers for each creature. If however it had been worded like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20of%20Bravery&quot;&gt;Path of Bravery&lt;/a&gt;, which says &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;Whenever one or more creatures you control attack&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, that would only be one instance of life gain and thus only 2 +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T15:20:12.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27950" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-14T19:01:23.617" Score="1" ViewCount="17816" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recognizing that I am arguing against pretty clear rules, but my buddy and I got in an argument regarding the logic behind only getting two pegs/points (Vs. 3) when you get a &quot;go&quot; from your partner and then place one or more cards down to eventually get to 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My logic (working against the rules) is that I should get 1 peg/point for my partners &quot;go&quot; and 2 pegs/points for reaching 31 (total of 3 points for the flurry of activity).  My argument is based on the fact that at any other time during the game when my partner says &quot;go&quot; I get 1 point......the only exception to this is when I place my cards down after the go and they result in a 31.  I argued with him last night that if the inventor of cribbage was alive today and I pointed out that I should get 3 points (1 for the go and 2 for hitting 31 directly) that they would say &quot;hmmm....you are right....I missed that&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His rationale, is that when scoring 31, you are getting one point for hitting 31 exactly and 1 bonus point representing your partners' inability to play an additional card (his &quot;go&quot;).  Hey says &quot;whether a &quot;go&quot; is said or not, the go is implied when you place the last card at the end of the round to make 31....thus giving you two points when you reach 31 even when a &quot;go&quot; is communicated&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any insight into how to argue either side of this scoring mess?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14594" LastActivityDate="2021-11-11T00:03:00.273" Title="Cribbage and scoring 31 plus go" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27950" CreationDate="2015-12-14T19:59:31.993" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/&quot;&gt;official cribbage rules&lt;/a&gt; make this incredibly clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule1.asp#section6&quot;&gt;Rule 1.6 - Definitions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ... &lt;br&gt;&#xA;  go: Called by a player who cannot play a card without exceeding the cumulative count of 31; the opponent scores one point, or two if reaching exactly 31.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this, calling a 31 is just a special case of a go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2015-12-14T19:59:31.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27952" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27953" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:41:34.253" Score="40" ViewCount="89414" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the cards revealed for Oath of the Gatewatch is the basic land &lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/ogw/cards/wastes.html&quot;&gt;Wastes&lt;/a&gt; with a new diamond symbol instead of one of the existing mana symbols. We also saw &lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/ogw/cards/kozilekthegreatdistortion.html&quot;&gt;Kozilek, the Great Distortion&lt;/a&gt;, which has two of that new symbol in the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does the symbol represent? How does it work? Is it a color? Can I create it with an effect that says &quot;add one mana of any color to your mana pool&quot;? Will this symbol be errata'd onto any existing cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does Wastes do? Does it have any important differences from other basic lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T20:52:45.943" Title="What's the deal with the new Wastes land and the diamond symbol on it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27952" CreationDate="2015-12-14T22:41:34.253" Score="43" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Short answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a &lt;em&gt;cost,&lt;/em&gt; the new diamond symbol {C} can &lt;strong&gt;only&lt;/strong&gt; be paid with colorless, while {1} can be paid with any color or colorless.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In an effect that adds mana to a mana pool, {C} means the same thing as {1}. Cards that are printed with &quot;Add {1} to your mana pool&quot; have received errata to add {C} instead (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnknown%20Shores%5d&quot;&gt;Unknown Shores&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Likewise, cards that add {2}, {3}, etc have been updated to use the corresponding number of {C} symbols (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPalladium%20Myr%5d&quot;&gt;Palladium Myr&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThran%20Dynamo%5d&quot;&gt;Thran Dynamo&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Colorless mana doesn't work any differently (colorless is still not a color, and you can't pick &quot;colorless&quot; if asked to pick a color).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWastes%5d&quot;&gt;Wastes&lt;/a&gt; taps for 1 colorless mana. It's also Basic, so you can have more than 4 in a deck. It has no subtypes, so you can't pick &quot;Wastes&quot; if asked to choose a basic land type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/oath-gatewatch-mechanics-2015-12-28&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oath of the Gatewatch mechanics guide&lt;/a&gt; includes a detailed description of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Long answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The diamond symbol&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new diamond symbol is the new symbol for &lt;strong&gt;colorless mana&lt;/strong&gt;, and it is written as {C} in text. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Numbers_and_symbols&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 107.4c&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The colorless mana symbol {C} is used to represent one colorless mana, and also to represent a cost that can be paid only with one colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an ability that generates mana (i.e. &quot;add {C}&quot;), it adds colorless mana to your mana pool, exactly as the abilities on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bReliquary%20Tower%5d&quot;&gt;Reliquary Tower&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAncient%20Tomb%5d&quot;&gt;Ancient Tomb&lt;/a&gt; currently do. In a cost, like on the new Kozilek, it represents a mana cost that can only be paid with colorless mana. Kozilek costs {8}{C}{C}, so its cost can be paid with 8 mana of any type, and 2 mana that must be colorless. This exactly mirrors how colored symbols work in costs: a cost of {8}{G}{G} can be paid with 8 mana of any type and 2 mana that must be green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Colors_(rules)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 105&lt;/a&gt; has the following subrules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;105.1.&lt;/strong&gt; There are five colors in the Magic game: white, blue, black, red, and green.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;105.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If a player is asked to choose a color, he or she must choose one of the five colors. “Multicolored” is not a color. &lt;strong&gt;Neither is “colorless.”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Colorless is specifically &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; a color, and you cannot choose it when making mana of any color. Mark Rosewater (the Head Designer for Wizards) has &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/134995274513/can-cards-sigh-as-city-of-brass-or-mana-confluence&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;stated&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/135063015713/can-cards-that-produce-mana-of-any-color-produce&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/135195094863/you-forgot-the-new-colorless-mana-in-your-tales&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;repeatedly&lt;/a&gt; in the context of Oath of the Gatewatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The oracle text of every card that generates colorless mana has been updated to use {C} to represent colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And rule 107.4b says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Numerical symbols (such as {1}) and variable symbols (such as {X}) represent generic mana in costs. Generic mana in costs can be paid with any type of mana. For more information about {X}, see rule 107.3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So nothing about generic mana has changed. Costs with numeric and variable symbols can be paid with any type of mana, as it has always been.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change has no effect on mana cost reduction effects. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Cost&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 117.7a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Effects that reduce a cost by an amount of generic mana affect only the generic mana component of that cost. They can’t affect the colored or colorless mana components of that cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And every card that previously reduced a cost by a generic amount still has that effect. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEye%20of%20Ugin%5d&quot;&gt;Eye of Ugin&lt;/a&gt; still has the text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Colorless Eldrazi spells you cast cost {2} less to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Wastes&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The complete text of the card Wastes is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Wastes&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Basic Land&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}: Add {C} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Type_line&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 205.3i&lt;/a&gt; still says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lands have their own unique set of subtypes; these subtypes are called land types. The land types are Desert, Forest, Gate, Island, Lair, Locus, Mine, Mountain, Plains, Power-Plant, Swamp, Tower, and Urza’s.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Of that list, Forest, Island, Mountain, Plains, and Swamp are the basic land types.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 305.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Wastes has no land type, and there are no new basic land types. This means that cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCoalition%20Victory%5d&quot;&gt;Coalition Victory&lt;/a&gt; don't work any differently than they did before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional important difference between Wastes and other basic lands is that to put Wastes into you limited deck (Draft or Sealed) you need to open them. They appeared twice as often as other common cards in Oath of the Gatewatch to make this easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that it did not add a new basic land type also means that you cannot choose &quot;Wastes&quot; as the basic land type for cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bConvincing%20Mirage%5d&quot;&gt;Convincing Mirage&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCrystal%20Spray%5d&quot;&gt;Crystal Spray&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards, like &lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/ogw/cards/walkerofthewastes.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Walker of the Wastes&lt;/a&gt;, care about Wastes, but they specifically care about lands with that name, instead of lands with a specific type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to emphasize this point: the mana generated by Wastes is &lt;strong&gt;just colorless mana&lt;/strong&gt;. It works exactly like any other mana source that generates colorless mana, so it does not count for Sunburst, or Converge, or anything else that counts colors. If you copy the mana with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoubling%20Cube%5d&quot;&gt;Doubling Cube&lt;/a&gt;, you get regular colorless mana. If you have a Wastes and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bReflecting%20Pool%5d&quot;&gt;Reflecting Pool&lt;/a&gt;, they both just tap for regular colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2018-06-20T20:52:45.943" LastActivityDate="2018-06-20T20:52:45.943" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T00:21:08.150" Score="5" ViewCount="2069" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Seafarers, Scenario 8: The Wonders of Catan&lt;/em&gt;, each player gets a single Catan chit to start with. Is that chit just meant to count as a victory point &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; it supposed to be used to indicate the level you've achieved on your Wonder?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another related question is this: Out of the 10 initial chits, are the chits given to players to start with doled out of that pool of 10?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, can a player be essentially 'locked out' from winning due to their being unable to get a chit to start a Wonder? This will depend on what the answers to the above questions are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14597" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T19:34:46.927" Title="Chit assignment in Catan: Seafarers, Scenario 8: The Wonders of Catan?" Tags="|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7159" CreationDate="2015-12-15T04:42:05.117" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In researching a scoring system for our own tournaments I modified the latest F1 scoring system (2015).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Formula_One_World_Championship_points_scoring_systems#Points_scoring_systems&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Formula_One_World_Championship_points_scoring_systems#Points_scoring_systems&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 4 player games take the 25, 18, 15, 12... and subtract 12 from each so you get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13, 6, 3, 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the OP's example it would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: 13+6+6= 25&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B: 13+13+0= 26&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This scoring system also works well for other 5 and 6 player games (just subtract so last place always gets 0 points).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14598" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T04:42:05.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27956" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T08:47:27.297" Score="6" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend has played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Engineered%20Plague&quot;&gt;Engineered Plague&lt;/a&gt;, naming &lt;em&gt;Elf&lt;/em&gt;. Is the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Hexhunter&quot;&gt;Elvish Hexhunter&lt;/a&gt; of any use here? Imagine it has haste via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Concordant%20Crossroads&quot;&gt;Concordant Crossroads&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T13:34:29.817" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T17:35:40.963" Title="Does a -1/-1 effect from a static ability cause a creature to die before it can do anything, upon entering the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27956" CreationDate="2015-12-15T08:49:56.530" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your elf can't do anything. It becomes a 0/0 just after it enters the battlefield, and pretty much immediately goes to the graveyard. There's no opportunity to activate the ability before it dies. This has to do with &lt;em&gt;state-based actions&lt;/em&gt;, and the fact that they're checked &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you get priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for&#xA;state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions&#xA;simultaneously as a single event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities, such as that of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Visionary&quot;&gt;Elvish Visionary&lt;/a&gt;, will still trigger. You will place the ability onto the stack as soon as you get priority, which in this case is after the creature is already dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T17:35:40.963" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T17:35:40.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-15T13:56:36.077" Score="7" ViewCount="1467" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ugin%2C%20the%20Spirit%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Ugin, the Spirit Dragon&lt;/a&gt;'s third ability, it says &amp;quot;Gain seven life, draw 7 cards, and place up to 7 permanents from your hand to the battlefield.&amp;quot; Does this include land because land is a permanent, or is the &amp;quot;1 land per turn&amp;quot; rule still in effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14600" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2015-12-15T14:03:23.833" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:03:24.717" Title="Playing lands with Ugin's ultimate" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27958" CreationDate="2015-12-15T14:02:03.667" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can put lands onto the battlefield with Ugin's ability because you are not playing lands (a special action limited to once a turn) you are just putting them onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;115.2a&lt;/strong&gt; Playing a land is a special action. To play a land, a player puts that land onto the battlefield from the zone it was in (usually that player’s hand). By default, a player can take this action only once during each of his or her turns. A player can take this action any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty during a main phase of his or her turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.4.&lt;/strong&gt; Effects may also allow players to “put” lands onto the battlefield. This isn’t the same as “playing a land” and doesn’t count as a land played during the current turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T14:02:03.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27954" CreationDate="2015-12-15T19:34:46.927" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like you're mixing two things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Chits in this scenario are not the same chits as the victory points ones.&#xA;I don't have the material at hand, but you could use something completely different for those chits (a coin for instance). It's just used to track your progress in the wonder you're building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first time you pay the resources to build a wonder, you take the corresponding card for that wonder, place it in front of you as it is now yours (nobody else can build it from now on) and place your chit in the first step on the card. When you pay the resources a second time, you just move your chit to the second step on the card and so on until you build the fourth step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This chit is not worth a victory point. If a player builds the fourth step of his/her wonder, he/she wins and that's it...&#xA;The victory points are used for the alternative victory condition: You win if you have 10 points &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you're ahead of all other players on the building of your wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More over, in &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/16238/wondersofcatanpdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules for this scenario&lt;/a&gt;, the chits are listed as &quot;Additional Components&quot; which tend to prove that they're not a part of the included game material (hence not the victory tokens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T19:34:46.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27966" CreationDate="2015-12-15T23:08:40.693" Score="4" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;I came across a situation when attempting a mystery that had a terror effect that spawned a monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player had completed one of the tasks using the yellow die. On the next roll, the terror effect triggered, spawning a monster that was supposed to lock the yellow die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ruled that the since the yellow die was already used to complete a task, it didn't make sense to remove it to put it on the monster and cause the task to become incomplete again. &#xA;Once the resolution phase was over, we then locked the die on to the monster card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was that the correct ruling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T23:34:56.910" Title="Locking Assigned Dice During Resolution Phase in Elder Sign" Tags="|elder-sign|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27965" CreationDate="2015-12-15T23:34:56.910" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that would be correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The task on the current adventure is complete, and absolutely nothing in the rules states that anything can change that task state back to incomplete during the current turn.  So up until the adventure card is completed and awarded, or in the end is failed and all the dice cleared, it's good.  Even if it was a monster task, there is no rule that states the task can then be failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific text under the &quot;Locked Die&quot; says that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Locked dice cannot be in the dice pool until they are unlocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the die hadn't yet been used and was still in the pool, it would have immediately been removed from the pool and you would have been out of luck.  Since it wasn't in the pool, just set aside to mark the task completion, the ruling was fine.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could have been moved immediately to the locked marker and it would have simply been &quot;understood&quot; that the task was still complete, or as you did, simply moved it after it was no longer needed to mark the task.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2015-12-15T23:34:56.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23217" CreationDate="2015-12-16T04:26:10.500" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;White 4 gives black another chance to reinforce the corner (at a or b), as it doesn't put much pressure on 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..3.2.....|&#xA;$$ ...4..1...|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ......ab..|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ 7.3.2.....|&#xA;$$ ..64..1...|&#xA;$$ ..........|&#xA;$$ ......5...|&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T04:26:10.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27968" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27969" CreationDate="2015-12-16T08:12:53.477" Score="5" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a rules question.  Let's say I have 2 &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=289221&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Judge's Familiar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;'s in play and an opponent casts&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397722&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; on another one of my creatures.  In response, I sac one of the Judges to counter the spell.  Here are the questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When does my opponent make the decision to pay the extra mana?  Is it when the spell is cast, or do I have to pass priority first and let it resolve before they make the decision?  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would I get priority after they make the decision to pay the mana (so if they did pay the mana, I could sac the other Judge and they couldn't insert anything into the stack beforehand)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YDGNc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YDGNc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Judge&amp;#39;s Familiar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T16:51:51.573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T16:51:51.573" Title="When does an opponent make the decision to pay extra mana in response to a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27968" CreationDate="2015-12-16T09:12:30.117" Score="11" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The opponent has to decide whether to pay if and when the Familiar's ability resolves. If it does resolve, the Familiar's ability will always resolve before the spell it tries to counter, because the stack works on the LIFO principle - Last In, First Out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Starting with the active player, each player in turn order gets priority whenever a spell or ability resolves, so if the first Familiar's ability resolves and your opponent decides to pay, then you still have the opportunity to sacrifice the other Familiar. The second Familiar's ability then becomes the top-most object on the stack and that too will resolve before the spell you want to counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the rules on who gets priority when:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3. Which player has priority is determined by the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3c If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3d If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes.&lt;/strong&gt; If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. &lt;strong&gt;Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T09:12:30.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27970" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28668" CreationDate="2015-12-16T12:16:15.597" Score="12" ViewCount="583" Body="&lt;p&gt;In two-player Agricola, the first Take Stone action space appears in Rounds 5-7. Apart from one or two Minor Improvements, there is no way to get stone earlier than this. Having played quite a few such games, I feel that this is an unfortunate limitation, as certain cards such as the Axe and the Peat Charcoal Kiln (in Farmers of the Moor) are very useful if played early. But as they cost stone, you might have to wait until round 7 to have a chance, and this almost completely negates their usefulness. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games with 3-5 players have ways of picking up small amounts of stone before the Take Stone cards appear. I feel like an equivalent would make the two-player game more flexible. Would it break the game to modify the rules slightly (e.g. including the &quot;Take one building resource&quot; 3-player action card, or something else along those lines), or should I just accept the limitations? In most respects the game seems very well balanced but I feel like this is an exception. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T17:34:07.240" Title="How can you get around the lack of early stone in two-player Agricola?" Tags="|agricola|two-player|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27753" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:05:45.693" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you normal summon you can play in face down &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is special summoned it has to be face up &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14537" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T15:05:45.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9755" CreationDate="2015-12-16T15:07:47.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really enjoy using : &lt;a href=&quot;http://ygopro.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ygopro.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its really well made and constantly updating &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14537" LastEditorUserId="14537" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T10:00:45.203" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T10:00:45.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20663" CreationDate="2015-12-16T18:24:46.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the pros tell you both are joseki... trust them!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your analysis is only based on corner points. To get a better picture, factor in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;territory on the sides (depends on the presence of other stones on the board)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initiative, for example the ability to interrupt the sequence and play elsewhere&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;aji: whether white can live in the corner is only part of the equation, aji should eventually translate into points (support for a side invasion or ko threat for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;influence, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2015-12-16T18:24:46.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27979" CreationDate="2015-12-16T22:12:32.783" Score="3" ViewCount="603" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the new updates to how mana is shown and displayed, someone pointed out to me that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elemental%20Resonance&quot;&gt;Elemental Resonance&lt;/a&gt; effectively converts the generic mana in its target's casting cost to colourless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I can see the gatherer rulings, is there anything more fundamental in the comprehensive rules about converting mana costs to mana sources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-16T22:46:25.883" LastActivityDate="2018-08-17T03:51:17.510" Title="How does Elemental Resonance convert a Mana Cost to a Mana Source?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27977" CreationDate="2015-12-16T22:46:08.370" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Short Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of Oath of the Gatewatch, rule 106.10 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;106.10. If an effect would add mana represented by a generic mana symbol to a player’s mana pool, that much colorless mana is added to that player’s mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Old Answer&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of subrules of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana#Comprehensive_Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 106&lt;/a&gt; concern adding converting mana cost to mana:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;106.8.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect would add mana represented by a hybrid mana symbol to a player’s mana pool, that player chooses one half of that symbol. If a colored half is chosen, one mana of that color is added to that player’s mana pool. If a colorless half is chosen, an amount of colorless mana represented by that half’s number is added to that player’s mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;106.9.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect would add mana represented by a Phyrexian mana symbol to a player’s mana pool, one mana of the color of that symbol is added to that player’s mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last part of 106.8 is relevant, because it explicitly says that the generic part of a monocolored hybrid mana symbol (which it calls the &quot;colorless half&quot;) is converted to colorless mana. Unfortunately, this only tangentially touches on the issue of how generic mana costs are converted. However, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Numbers_and_symbols&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 107.4c&lt;/a&gt; arguably applies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Numeral symbols (such as {1}) and variable symbols (such as {X}) can also represent colorless mana if they appear in the effect of a spell or ability that reads “add [mana symbol] to your mana pool” or something similar. (See rule 107.3e.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combined with the subrules of 106 quoted above, we can interpret Elemental Resonance's ability to mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each symbol in enchanted permanent's mana cost, add that to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we look at it that way, then the conversion of generic mana cost to colorless mana is simply a consequence of moving the symbol from a mana cost context to a mana generation context. In other words, it adds colorless mana to your mana pool because that's what would have happened if we had inserted the mana cost symbolically into a mana generating ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current rules don't indicate unambiguously how Elemental Resonance will interact with the new rules, but with the rulings we have and the information that Wizards has published so far, we can make some strong educated guesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, in a Twitter Q&amp;amp;A session regarding the new colorless symbol, Wizards Community Manager Trick Jarrett &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/TrickMTG/status/675576322245136384&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tweeted&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is no functional errata planned with this change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was in response to a question about cost reduction, but the wording seems to imply that there will be no functional errata to any cards because of the new symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that all of the current rulings will still be accurate. In particular, this means that when Elemental Resonance converts a cost with generic mana, it will add the corresponding amount of {C} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can also extrapolate from the existing rulings that if a cost contains {C}, then Elemental Resonance will add {C} to your mana pool for each corresponding symbol in the cost. In other words, Elemental Resonance attached to the new Kozilek, which costs {8}{C}{C}, will add ten colorless mana to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T23:38:43.803" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T23:38:43.803" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27924" CreationDate="2015-12-17T00:51:09.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nikki from FFG kindly provided an official answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you’re asking:&#xA;If an effect says “gain 1 random Ally Asset from the deck,” but there are no Ally Assets in the deck or discard pile, can I gain one from the reserve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To which the answer would be no. When an effect instructs an investigator to search a deck, he also searches the discard pile if the card cannot be found in the deck. If a card that matches the search criteria is not found in the deck or discard pile, the search is finished without finding a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If looking for a named card, that card is taken from the reserve to prevent unneeded searching and shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, no Ally card from the reserve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T00:51:09.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23217" CreationDate="2015-12-17T16:54:37.957" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with W4 is that it is a &quot;slow,&quot; non-forcing move that gives Black many options. Some of those have been covered by other answers, but one good move is P17 (one right of 2) that gives Black the corner, while leaving White very cramped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play a sequence that gives your opponent so many good options, the sequence is probably to your opponent's advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T21:43:12.567" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:43:12.567" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5627" CreationDate="2015-12-17T18:50:06.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option for white:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . X . O . 2 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . , . . 1 . 4 X . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . a . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 might also be played at a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T18:50:06.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27986" CreationDate="2015-12-17T19:04:01.050" Score="2" ViewCount="773" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the name of a Late 70's / early 80's board game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic design was based on Battle Ship. Each of the two players had a clam shell case where they built their own maze at the bottom and tracked their opponent at the top. Read and green cases, with blue green chips used to build the mazes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The goal was to follow your opponent's maze by blindly bumping into corners, trying to figure out the path to the goal, which was capturing the other guys pawn before he got to yours. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a great strategy game and I would love to dig up, or recreate a copy to play with my kids. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any hints at the name of this game? And who the manufacturer was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14624" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T19:37:44.373" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T19:37:44.373" Title="Maze Game - Late 70's / Early 80's - Battleship-esk - What's it name?" Tags="|identify-this-game|two-player|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27985" CreationDate="2015-12-17T19:13:04.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds to me like Pathfinder which was a game of my childhood.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;BGG link - &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2884/pathfinder&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2884/pathfinder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T19:13:04.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27985" CreationDate="2015-12-17T19:27:21.110" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1140096/vintage-maze-game-delivers-exactly-what-was-promis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reviewed here on Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt; seems to fit the description quite well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could this be it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is Pathfinder published by MB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic7352_md.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pathfinder by MB&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T19:27:21.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5590" CreationDate="2015-12-17T20:35:58.210" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Defending a large chunk of territory is not easy, that's why the 3-3 point is highly regarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your position, the main weakness is at 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ .............&#xA;$$ .OOOOOOOOOOO.&#xA;$$ .OXXXOOXOX.XO&#xA;$$ OOX.8XX.X.X.O&#xA;$$ OX246..X...X.&#xA;$$ XX35.7.....X.&#xA;$$ X..........X.&#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you can't completely ignore what is going on on the outside - I have added surrounding white stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2015-12-17T21:37:44.573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-17T21:37:44.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25474" CreationDate="2015-12-17T22:39:40.980" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find a comprehensive breakdown of the differences between paper pauper and MTGO pauper here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/other-formats/paper-pauper-and-peasant/662888-differences-between-mtgo-and-paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/other-formats/paper-pauper-and-peasant/662888-differences-between-mtgo-and-paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 129 cards that are common online but have never been phsyically printed at that rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14627" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T16:22:01.577" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T16:22:01.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25435" CreationDate="2015-12-17T22:41:42.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can find a comprehensive breakdown of the differences between paper pauper and MTGO pauper here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/other-formats/paper-pauper-and-peasant/662888-differences-between-mtgo-and-paper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/other-formats/paper-pauper-and-peasant/662888-differences-between-mtgo-and-paper&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 387 cards that have been printed as commons but aren't available as such online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14627" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T16:22:36.797" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T16:22:36.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27992" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:34:26.667" Score="3" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt; that is also a 3/3 creature (possibly via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enchanted%20Evening&quot;&gt;Enchanted Evening&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Opalescence&quot;&gt;Opalescence&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks Lilly with a 4/4 lifelink, trample and I decide to block with Lilly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my opponent gain three or four life from her creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8270" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T17:18:12.277" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T14:54:10.000" Title="Animated Planeswalkers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:37:08.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, so the creature is attacking Liliana. Even with trample, the controller can choose to assign all 4 damage to Liliana. So, the controller gains 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, even if you decided to trample the damage over, it would still go to hit Liliana (she wouldn't be dead yet), since all damage is dealt simultaneously.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's interesting about the scenario is that Liliana is marked for damage as a creature AND loyalty is also removed for each point of damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T14:38:33.650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T14:38:33.650" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:43:54.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No matter how your opponent assigns damage, your opponent will gain four life when damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Assigning damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.19b&lt;/strong&gt; The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When trample damage is assigned, you must assign at least lethal to all blocking creatures, and any remaining can be assigned to the player or planeswalker. That means your opponent has the following options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign 3 to Liliana, and 1 to Liliana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign 4 to Liliana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the options in this case all add up to the same result: all four damage gets assigned to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;##Dealing damage&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the 4/4 lifelink trample creature deals damage, it deals four all at once, rather than dealing three followed by one. Simultaneously, its controller gains four life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that because Liliana was dealt four damage in total, she loses four loyalty counters. This is because Liliana is still a planeswalker even though she is also an enchantment and a creature. Even if Liliana were indestructible, she would still die if she loses all of her loyalty. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gideon%2C%20Battle-Forged&quot;&gt;Gideon, Battle-Forged&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that specifically protects him from losing loyalty like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T15:09:29.437" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T15:09:29.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2015-12-18T14:45:01.337" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They would gain 4 life. The creature will deal 4 damage to Liliana either because all 4 damage was assigned to the blocking creature, or 3 was assigned to the blocking creature and 1 trampled over onto the Planeswalker. This is just an odd case where the creature and the Planeswalker are the same object. Since 4 damage was dealt 4 life is gained, it doesn't matter that Liliana only has 3 toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.19b&lt;/strong&gt; The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.15b&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much life (in addition to any other results that damage causes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T14:45:01.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="27996" CreationDate="2015-12-18T15:44:03.967" Score="10" ViewCount="1897" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the various Zombicide games, my understanding is that if zombies can take two or more valid paths, they split. E.g. if there are 8 walkers in one square, and they can go one of 2 ways, you get &lt;strong&gt;8&lt;/strong&gt; walkers go one way and another &lt;strong&gt;8&lt;/strong&gt;, previously non-existent walkers go the other way(!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the justification in terms of the background story for the splitting rule?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the justification from a game playing point of view? I.e. how is it better than randomly determining which way they go?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-03-25T11:13:47.013" LastActivityDate="2020-03-25T11:13:47.013" Title="Zombicide: Why do zombies split?" Tags="|zombicide|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="27996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27995" CreationDate="2015-12-18T18:23:06.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, if you have 8 walkers in one zone and there are 2 valid paths to get to the most noisy zone, you literally split them : you get 2 groups of 4 walkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There can only be one zombie added when splitting: in the case you have an even number of zombies. Eg: If you have 9 zombies in one zone, 5 go one way (A), 4 go the other way (B) + an additional one (B)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You apply that rule for each type of zombies (except Abominations that never split).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is for the zombie turn to be as simple as possible to get it over with as quickly as possible. It is not the interesting part of the game, the players' turn are. Deciding randomly where each zombie goes would slow down the game without adding much. Adding the extra zombie when splitting even groups, makes things straight forward. I think it is a purely mechanical (opposed to themed) driven rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3636" LastEditorUserId="3636" LastEditDate="2015-12-18T18:29:47.460" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:29:47.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27426" CreationDate="2015-12-18T18:23:47.233" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been trying to figure this out for the longest time and I finally just did! I loved this game as a kid and couldn't remember what it was!! It's KooKooNauts!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14634" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:23:47.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27998" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27995" CreationDate="2015-12-18T18:39:59.643" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to @leochab's answer, here is the quote from the &lt;em&gt;Zombicide: Black Plague!&lt;/em&gt; game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is more than one route of the same length, the Zombies split into groups of equal numbers to follow all possible routes. They also split up if different target Zones contain the same number of Noise tokens. If necessary, add Zombies so that all new groups resulting from a splitting group contain the same number of each Zombie type!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitting special cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abominations and Necromancers never split; decide which direction they go.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there aren’t enough Zombie miniatures to add for an even split, decide which Zombie group gets the final reinforcement, and which direction the uneven split groups go. It doesn’t generate extra Activations (see P . 26).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EXAMPLE: A group of four Walkers, one Fatty, and three Runners move toward a group of Survivors. The Zombies can take two routes of the same length, so they split into two groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two Walkers go one way, the other two take the other route.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Fatty joins one group of Walkers, and a second Fatty is added to the other group.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The three Runners also split, two joining the first group, and the other joining the second group. Another Runner is added to the latter group so that the groups remain even. Things just got a lot harder for the Survivors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, I guess it always pays to read the rules!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1 &amp;amp; accepted answer to @leochab&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:39:59.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="27999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23496" CreationDate="2015-12-18T18:41:30.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Finance&lt;/em&gt; was published by &lt;em&gt;Dave Knapp&lt;/em&gt; and was one of the candidates to buy the patents of &lt;em&gt;Elizabeth Magie&lt;/em&gt; who invented &lt;em&gt;The Landlord's Game&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other candidate was the company &lt;em&gt;Parker Brothers&lt;/em&gt; which acquired the patents and turned &lt;em&gt;The Landlord's Game&lt;/em&gt; into &lt;em&gt;Monopoly&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in good or even better mint condition, you'll get more than $50. As mentioned by &lt;em&gt;Nancy H&lt;/em&gt; and I myself didn't find any version of the 1932' &lt;em&gt;Finance&lt;/em&gt; (in comparision to the more common &lt;em&gt;Parker Brother&lt;/em&gt; 36' and 58' publications) so you might want to get it curated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11869" LastActivityDate="2015-12-18T18:41:30.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27991" CreationDate="2015-12-19T14:54:10.000" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature &lt;strong&gt;assigns combat damage equal to its power&lt;/strong&gt;. Creatures that would assign 0 or less damage this way don’t assign combat damage at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the 4/4 assigns and deals 4 damage. That means its controller gains 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't matter at all that the blocker is a Planeswalker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't matter at all that the blocker is also the Planeswalker being attacked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It doesn't matter at all that the attacker has trample.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are things that could matter (such as the removal of a blocker if the attacker didn't have trample, or if a blocker has Protection from a quality the attacker has), but there are none in the posted scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign 3 to the blocker, and 1 to the attacked Planeswalker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign 4 to the blocker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, four damage is assigned, and four damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-19T14:54:10.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28002" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28003" CreationDate="2015-12-20T06:39:00.490" Score="5" ViewCount="874" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some monsters say if you fail the horror check, then there are consequences. Do these consequences occur if you get zero will test successes or if you take even 1 point of sanity damage? Ie if a monster has 3 horror, do you have to roll 3 successes to pass the will test?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T10:05:00.337" Title="Does passing a horror or strength test mean 1 success or enough to avoid losing sanity or health?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28002" CreationDate="2015-12-20T10:05:00.337" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only need one success to pass a skill test. There can still be consequences (Sanity or Health loss for instance).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the text says that if you fail the horror check you will suffer blablabla, then you only need your &lt;em&gt;test result&lt;/em&gt; to be 1 or higher to avoid the blablabla consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are extracts from &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot;&gt;the Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt; to cover those answers (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 11 (Tests):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The third step says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Determine Result: Each “5” or “6” rolled is one success. The total number of successes rolled is the &lt;em&gt;test result&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;If he rolls at least one success, he passes the test&lt;/strong&gt;. If he does not roll any successes, he fails the test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fourth step says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resolve Pass or Fail Effect: The consequence of passing or failing the test is determined by the effect that triggered the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Some effects specify only a pass effect or a fail effect. If an  investigator passes a test that does not have a pass effect, there is no effect. Likewise, if an investigator fails a test that does not have a fail effect, he suffers no ill effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;On encounter cards, tests are declared using their skill icon    embedded in the text in parentheses. The test declaration may also indicate a test modifier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effects that are dependent on a test are always preceded by “if you pass,” or “if you fail.” Any effect in that sentence occurs only if you pass the test or fail the test, respectively. Any effect after the period or part of a new paragraph, is independent from previous effects&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T10:05:00.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28004" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T11:55:27.073" Score="6" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;Monster Batteries states the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you purchase this put as many [Energy] as you want on it from your reserve. Match this from the bank. At the start of each turn take 2[Energy] off and add them to your reserve. When there are no [Energy] left discard this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean at the start of only your own turns or at the start of every player's turn? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14644" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T23:45:52.917" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:45:57.060" Title="In King of Tokyo, which turns does Monster Batteries' effect happen on?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28005" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28007" CreationDate="2015-12-20T12:51:55.010" Score="2" ViewCount="1722" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's stated in the rules that you add from 1 to 6 sequentially, but what I find unclear is if it is per turn or always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example (reduced to 3 entrances for simplicity)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;z = zombie, - empty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Round 1 looks like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 z--&#xA;2 z--&#xA;3 ---&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;adding 2 zombies the next round, should i start from 1 again and get &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 zz-&#xA;2 zz-&#xA;3 --- &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or do i get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 zz- &#xA;2 z-&#xA;3 z--&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting from 1 makes it easier to overflow since you start adding there each time, but seems most logical and easy to do. But not sure if i interpret correctly. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14400" LastActivityDate="2021-05-16T19:56:05.060" Title="Adding zombies, what order" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27806" CreationDate="2015-12-20T16:14:15.707" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oa0CJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oa0CJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This one sounds like &quot;Point Out&quot;, which you can find here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.glopgame.com/who-is-the-most-likely-with-Truth-game.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.glopgame.com/who-is-the-most-likely-with-Truth-game.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there isn't any mention of a board or tokens. So, its probably a modern variant on what you've described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12710" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T16:14:15.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28005" CreationDate="2015-12-20T16:40:18.427" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look closer at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/dead-of-winter/rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; it is explained that you always start placing the zombies at spot 1 when adding new zombies. Also of note if you have to add more then 6 zombies in a turn you cycle around from spot 6 to spot 1 again&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever adding zombies, they are added 1 at a time until&#xA;  all zombies that need to be added have been added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When adding zombies to the colony, always place the first&#xA;  zombie on any empty space in entrance 1, the second zombie&#xA;  on any empty space in entrance 2, the third zombie on any&#xA;  empty space in entrance 3, etc. until all of the zombies that&#xA;  need to be added have been placed. When adding a seventh&#xA;  zombie, place it on any empty space in entrance 1 again, an&#xA;  eighth zombie on any empty space in entrance 2, etc. If there&#xA;  are no empty entrance spaces in the entrance the zombie&#xA;  would be placed but there is a barricade token in one of&#xA;  those spaces, destroy that barricade token and remove the&#xA;  zombie that would have been placed. If there are no empty&#xA;  spaces and no barricade tokens, the entrance has been&#xA;  overrun, remove that zombie and kill the survivor at the&#xA;  colony that has the lowest influence value. If there are only&#xA;  helpless survivors at the colony, kill a helpless survivor. If&#xA;  there are no survivors at the colony remove the zombie that&#xA;  would have been placed without further effect. Every time a&#xA;  survivor is killed (including a helpless survivor), decrease&#xA;  morale by 1. When adding zombies to non-colony locations&#xA;  follow all of the same rules, except there is only 1 entrance to&#xA;  place zombies in so all of the zombies are placed in spaces at&#xA;  that entrance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T16:40:18.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28008" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-20T17:57:29.717" Score="6" ViewCount="13110" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello all you card game aficionados!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back in the day, my Mom &amp;amp; Dad played a card game that used this game board (see image).  I do not remember the name, OR, how to play. I don't really need the name of the game, but that would help. The rules are what I need. Does anyone recognized the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally the game board is about 2 x 2 masonite. My Dad cut up a deck of cards and glued them in the order illustrated, then shellacked the surface etc. voila.&#xA;I would be happy to share any info collected. I remember that the game was fun and unique.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope anyone can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grayley McWatters&#xA;Barrie, Ontario&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePzfw.gif&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePzfw.gif&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14647" LastActivityDate="2017-12-08T00:51:45.333" Title="Help me identify this card playing board game." Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28008" CreationDate="2015-12-20T20:32:40.517" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like sequence.You play the cards and place chips on the board. The goal is to get 4 in a row&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T20:32:40.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28008" CreationDate="2015-12-20T22:35:57.193" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;A board game of sorts, popular in the Eastern USA, known as One-Eyed Jack, Jack Foolery, Jack Off, and Sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Players: 2-4 (4 players is done in teams of 2)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Materials:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The board you've pictured&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Two standard playing card decks, Jokers removed (104 cards total).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A set of 50 chips for each player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Shuffle the 104 card deck, dealing 7 cards to each player in a two player game, 6 in a three, or 5 in a four. The cards not dealt are retained as a drawing stock for the course of the game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Game is played in turn, clockwise starting with the player after the dealer.&#xA;Each players turn proceeds as thus: Play a card from your hand, place a counter of your color on the indicated square, then draw a card from the stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Special Cards&lt;/strong&gt;: since their aren't jacks on the field, they cause a special action to occur.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Two Eyed Jack: Wild Card&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One Eyed Jack: Remove an opponents counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Win Condition: Form two uninterrupted lines of 5 counters, with one allowed intersection. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/misc/jack.html&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/misc/jack.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Google Fu: board game 10x10 playing cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2015-12-20T22:35:57.193" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28014" CreationDate="2015-12-21T00:16:38.237" Score="4" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;What tokens should be treated as unlimited in supply despite having a limited number in the game box, i.e. focus tokens, travel tickets, and the like? Naturally it makes the game 'harder' for the investigators should these run out, so I was curious what items have been confirmed to be allowed to have replacements simply because the game did not come with enough tokens for these edge case game sessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T00:22:44.980" Title="What tokens are endless despite having a limited supply?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28012" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:32:40.017" Score="2" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wookiee Loyalty: Exhaust this card while you or an adjacent friendly figure is defending to apply +1 Block to the defense results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An issue came up with in our recent game about the timing of using this ability. Do you need to declare it and exhaust it before the dice are rolled? Or can you wait to see the results of the dice roll and then choose to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T18:27:29.010" Title="When can Wookie Loyalty be applied?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T06:38:22.880" Score="2" ViewCount="978" Body="&lt;p&gt;For hero abilities bought with XP is there a limit to how many times they can be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example can Diala use her Force Adept: 1 strain: Use while you or a friendly figure is performing and attack or attribute test. That figure may reroll 1 die.&#xA;to let a player rerolling dice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or will Weapon Expert: 1 strain: use while attacking to gain Pierce 1 and apply +2 Accuracy to the attack results. make Fenn be able to shoot accross the map and just pay with strain/health for whatever accuracy he is missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T17:23:25.400" Title="How many times can you use hero ability?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28011" CreationDate="2015-12-21T09:01:01.867" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any token, other than Clues, Gates, and Monsters, is always available.&#xA;  If there are no remaining tokens of the specified type, track those&#xA;  tokens on paper or with a small object such as a coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Component Limitations&quot; (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="10217" LastEditDate="2015-12-22T00:22:44.980" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T00:22:44.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28015" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28017" CreationDate="2015-12-21T11:51:20.897" Score="10" ViewCount="5933" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fourth exception on &lt;a href=&quot;http://web.archive.org/web/20161119041538/https://www.gen42.com/downloads/rules/Pillbug_SP_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Page 3 of the rulebook for the pillbug&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pillbug may not move a piece through a too-narrow gap of stacked pieces (violating the Freedom to Move Rule).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What exactly would be considered a &lt;em&gt;too-narrow gap of stacked pieces&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our guess was a situation, where the bug to be moved is between two stacks of pieces (two Beetles on top of the hive, both also adjacent to the pillbug). But I don't see how this would violate the Freedom to Move rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option (ignoring the word &lt;em&gt;stacked&lt;/em&gt;): If the bug to be moved would not be able to move by itself (e.g. surrounded by 5 pieces), the pillbug can not move that piece, either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English explanation sounds kind of different to the German rule (translated by me):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pillbug may not move a piece, if this movement would also move other pieces or if the piece is surrounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the Pillbug is not able to 'rescue' a surrounded piece? Also, can the Pillbug move a piece into a location (e.g. enclosed space) the piece would not be able to move into?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14401" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-04T20:06:43.603" LastActivityDate="2022-07-04T20:06:43.603" Title="Clarification of Pillbug movement rule in Hive" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27913" CreationDate="2015-12-21T12:05:04.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  You could sacrifice it.  It goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay the price for the ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, the ability gets activated&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the ability activates independent of the card, so if the creature dies in the cost, the ability still happens.  However, for some cards, you can't do this, because the ability is still tied to the card, so if it says &quot;sacrifice another creature&quot;, it wouldn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T12:05:04.443" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28015" CreationDate="2015-12-21T12:40:12.103" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The piece that is moved by the Pillbug's special ability travels on top of the hive in the same way that a Beetle would. If there are Beetles at that level, you will have to move around them as you would during normal movement at ground level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To illustrate this, I'll use the picture from the rules that you quoted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPaPr.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gPaPr.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example the Ant can be moved by the Pillbug ability. Now imagine two beetles (B) present on top of the white Bee and white Spider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHOxD.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHOxD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would make the gap between those two stacks too small for the ant to pass through, thus violating the freedom of movement restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T12:40:12.103" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27806" CreationDate="2015-12-21T14:04:39.193" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/514/true-colors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;True Colors&lt;/a&gt; seems to be the closest match to what you are describing, though the party game market is so full of clones that your basic description could probably work for many of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T14:04:39.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28019" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T16:53:27.247" Score="2" ViewCount="50" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does the timing work when playing gossip cards on servants with actions?&lt;/strong&gt; More specifically, I targeted a cook with Forbidden Love which was immediately confirmed by another player. In reaction, the player wanted to use the Cook's ability which allows him to switch gossip cards with another player, which would then remove the cook from play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the &quot;Confirming Gossip&quot; section on pg. 9 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lordsandladiesgame.com/files/lords+ladies_rulebook_CurrentVersion.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Gossip is confirmed, the Gossip card's action is immediately taken by the player it has been played on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, under the &quot;Additional Servant Rules&quot; on pg. 8, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One time powers can be used anytime in the game but the servant is then fired...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how is this resolved? It seems to me that the player would not be able to use the Cook's ability until after the gossip had been resolved, which would give each of the gossipers a gossip token. The player I targeted feels that he should have been able to interrupt the gossip action and use his cook's ability, effectively removing his cook from play, switching hands with a player, and preventing anyone from getting gossip tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an official ruling for the timing of these actions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="13995" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T17:04:50.877" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T17:04:50.877" Title="Lords &amp; Ladies: Gossip Card Timing and Servant Actions" Tags="|lords-and-ladies|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28020" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:02:56.980" Score="2" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the most common opening move for 6,2 and 6,3?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the logical move is to take a runner and move 8 or 9 pips.  However, after playing a lot lately online I notice people also like to move into the #7 position with one runner and move 2 or 3 with the remaining runner.  While it seems risky, I also think that unless your opponent rolls a 6,1 or 6,6, they are opening themselves up more than you are opening yourself.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception of course would be if you were second to roll and your opponent has other crippling rolls available depending on their first roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14653" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T06:59:43.523" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T06:59:43.523" Title="Proper Opening Moves" Tags="|statistics|backgammon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28021" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:27:54.690" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lordsandladiesgame.com/?page_id=63&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;publisher's description&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Overview&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Lords and Ladies is a card game for 2 to 5 players where you control a turn of the 20th century noble family and their servants. Your goal is to raise your family’s status through careful marriages, hiring servants, having children all the while destroying your rival families through gossip, backstabbing and using your superior wit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gameplay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The goal of Lords and Ladies is to gain status points for your family. The first player to end a round with 18 status points wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Over the course of the game you build generations of a family by marrying off lords and ladies to available suitors, hiring servants to give you additional status and powers, attempting to have children with your married lords and ladies and using gossip cards and servant powers to destroy your rival families’ reputations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Additionally, you can earn status through three special awards cards in the game:Legacy, Gossip Queen and Full Service.  These entail having the most number of generations in your family, spreading the most amount of gossip and hiring and maintaining the largest number of servants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:21:45.000" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:21:45.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28022" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:27:54.690" Score="0" Body="A card game inspired by period dramas like Downtown Abbey." OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:21:45.000" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:21:45.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25284" CreationDate="2015-12-21T17:39:25.640" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pieter has covered most of the answer, but there is one point he didn't emphasize; when you are bidding, it is important not only to find the right contract (suit and level), but to have the right person playing. Bidding aggressively is no bad thing (as I have often told my partners); but bidding aggressively just so that you, rather than your partner, are declarer is very bad for your score, and will make others unwilling to partner you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T17:39:25.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-21T18:39:38.003" Score="3" ViewCount="27719" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia claims that werewolf/mafia requires &quot;At least 6 people&quot; but all calculations for that I can figure out results in the &quot;evil&quot; side winning the vast majority of the time.  I would like to play something similar to this game live but have not been in a large social group (more than 6) that might enjoy such games for a number of years. I do, however, meet up with a group of 6 people where we do play board games occasionally. We have played 1 Night Ultimate Werewolf but that (though sometimes fun) ends up being a completely different game because players don't know their roles. I want to know if there is a smaller variation or modification to Werewolf or Mafia which can be played with the following requirements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exactly 6 players are involved initially (though this number will obviously decrease)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players are eliminated by a voting process.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All players know their own identities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each side has a reasonably even chance to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of yet, Resistance (very fun) is the closest I've found but no players are eliminated.  I think incorporating multiple &quot;lives&quot; into the game would work but I'm not aware of how that rule would be implemented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13571" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T16:36:09.953" Title="How to play Werewolf/Mafia with exactly 6 players?" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28024" CreationDate="2015-12-21T19:06:08.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've found one option I overlooked until after I asked this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears that the &quot;good&quot; side has a 44.4% chance of winning if all votes are random, they have the option to not lynch someone on a particular day, and there is only 1 mafioso. A large portion of this, however, relies on the 16.7% chance they successfully guess the mafioso at their first vote. This would make it more of a &quot;serial killer&quot; game.  This is far better than I initially thought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect it might be most fun if players are told they only win if they survive, multiple rounds are played, and they can lynch as many players as they like on a particular day as long as each defendant received a quorum of the votes as required in the original mafia game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer is only speculative and, therefore, not a good answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13571" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T19:06:08.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28026" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28099" CreationDate="2015-12-21T20:43:32.917" Score="3" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;By &quot;light,&quot; mean with something like (s) AKQJx (h)Jxx (d)xxx (c)xx, or (s) KQJTx (h)Jxx (d)Axx (c)xx, or even (s) AKQJT (h)xxx (d)xxx (c)xx?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can think of two reasons. 1) I was taught that three or four honors in sequence is worth a point or so more than their nominal value, so e.g. AKQJx is worth 11, not 10, and KQJT is worth 7-8. Then AKQJT is worth about 12. If I make these adjustments, I have enough to open. And 2) the honors bonus will defray whatever penalty I incur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or am I &quot;stretching&quot; too far to open in most positions and vulnerabilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T15:32:50.603" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T23:58:42.267" Title="Should &quot;100 or 150 honors&quot; allow you to open light?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28028" CreationDate="2015-12-21T23:05:26.827" Score="2" ViewCount="3506" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules Question: When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoubling%20Cube%5d&quot;&gt;Doubling Cube&lt;/a&gt; doubles mana, does that include the mana used to activate the ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCDYs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bCDYs.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Doubling Cube&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2015-12-21T23:15:23.897" LastActivityDate="2019-05-02T10:43:55.587" Title="Does Doubling Cube's ability affect the mana used to activate it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28027" CreationDate="2015-12-21T23:15:01.447" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Doubling Cube does not copy the mana used to activate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you activate an ability you pay costs before the ability takes effect. Specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activating_activated_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 602.2&lt;/a&gt; describes the steps for activating an ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.2a&lt;/strong&gt; The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.2b&lt;/strong&gt; The remainder of the process for activating an ability is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2b–i. Those rules apply to activating an ability just as they apply to casting a spell. An activated ability’s analog to a spell’s mana cost (as referenced in rule 601.2f) is its activation cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2h&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2i&lt;/strong&gt; Once the steps described in 601.2a–h are completed, the [ability becomes activated]. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, players would get a chance to respond before the ability resolves, but Doubling Cube's ability is a mana ability, so 605.3b says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An activated mana ability doesn’t go on the stack, so it can’t be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, &lt;strong&gt;it resolves immediately after it is activated.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 405.6c.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_spells_and_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 608&lt;/a&gt; describes how spells and abilities resolve. Specifically, rule 608.2g says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), &lt;strong&gt;the answer is determined only once, when the effect is applied&lt;/strong&gt;. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the Doubling Cube checks the mana to be doubled when the effect resolves, which is after you spent the 3 mana on the ability's cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T23:29:36.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28027" CreationDate="2015-12-21T23:15:01.903" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to activate an ability (or cast a spell), you first have to pay all costs. By the time it resolves, the mana costs in particular have already been deducted from your mana pool, so the mana you spent to activate Doubling Cube cannot be doubled by its ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-12-21T23:15:01.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28024" CreationDate="2015-12-22T08:09:42.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play it with 6, but you need to be creative. And adapt the rules a bit. Also be carefull with the roles with a higher kill rate (hunter, cupid). Maybe give the witch only one healing potion and no poison.&#xA;One werewolf is probably enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also can skip the kill in the first night (the previous mayor is killed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to do is to introduce hitpoints. Each player has two hitpoints, each kill removes a single hitpoint. If the player reaches 0 hitpoints, she is emiminated and the role revealed. This changes the game a bit. But it will last a bit longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T08:09:42.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25330" CreationDate="2015-12-22T13:43:29.283" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think @Isaac and @Jefromi here have some good suggestions.  As pointed out in the top answer to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/681/how-can-i-beat-big-money-in-dominion?lq=1&quot;&gt;How can I beat Big Money in Dominion?&lt;/a&gt; and by @Isaac here, after starting out playing almost exclusively action cards there comes a time when players learn the Big Money strategy, and I agree that Big Money is a boring strategy.  Luckily most groups realize that you can outdo Big Money in most cases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible house rule until you learn strategies that beat Big Money is to disallowing buying treasures until a player has played his first action card.  After a player has played his first action card it is back to ordinary rules and the player can buy as many treasures they want.  This forces some action cards purchases and makes it more likely that buying/gaining more action cards to supplement those you already have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion such a small house rule will make enough changes so that the game becomes more lively. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5623" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T13:43:29.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28020" CreationDate="2015-12-22T15:09:35.040" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All else being equal, 24/18 13/11 (62) and 24/18 13/10 (63) are marginally better. On the upside, increased options for making points with the extra man in your outer board, and return hits with 6s if your opponent hits your runner without covering. On the downside, more risk of being hit. However, in match play, at certain match scores your moves 24/16 and 24/15 are preferred - generally where losing a gammon is particularly bad. But there's not a lot in it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I understand you correctly, the people playing 24/18 24/22 and 24/18 24/21 are definitely wrong - they get all the downside above and little upside from moving the second runner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7058" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T15:09:35.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25284" CreationDate="2015-12-22T18:22:25.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to bidding,teamwork was important in &quot;signalling.&quot; For instance, a high card is an encouragement to continue the suit, &quot;high low&quot; signals and even number of cards in the suit, and is important for counting. In leading a suit, a so-called suit preference signal is important to signal the presence of an honor. Say hearts are trump and clubs are being led. A high club means, please return a spade; a low club means please return a diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T18:22:25.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28045" CreationDate="2015-12-22T20:34:22.110" Score="0" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;If first seat opens, and you are in the second seat, you need opening values in order to make a take out double (that is 13-14 hcps, maybe 12 with 4-4-4-1 or 5-4-4-0 distribution, while short in opener's suit). Even then, you fear that third seat will have an &quot;opening&quot; hand, that is most or all of the remaining points, leaving your partner with nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the fourth seat (that is the &quot;balancing&quot;) seat after and opening and two passes, you can make a takeout double with about a king less, that is, 9-11 high card points. That's because third seat has shown less than 6 points by passing opener's bid. If opener has close to the minimum 13, third seat has 5, you have 9, your partner would have passed in second seat with close to the maximum, 12.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in fourth seat with in third seat raising the opener's bid, you are in an &quot;intermediate&quot; situation. Third seat has 6-9 hcps, basically the intermediate value of the range. If opener has 13, that would leave 18-21 for you and your partner.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't want to make a takeout double with 9-10 hcps in such a situation, but do I need 13-14, assuming I have good distribution? Or is an &quot;intermediate&quot; 11-12 sufficient in this &quot;intermediate&quot; situation? Larry Cohen refers to these as &quot;OBAR BIDS.&quot; (Opponents bid and raise, balance in direct seat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2023-01-17T08:22:34.353" Title="If you are fourth seat after a third seat raise, can you make a takeout double with &quot;intermediate&quot; values?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28037" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:27:57.890" Score="2" ViewCount="1204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Omnivore states the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once each turn you can score [1][2][3] for 2[Star]. You can use these dice in other combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this only trigger when you are finished rerolling or at any time during rolling the dice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14659" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:22:48.333" Title="King of Tokyo: Omnivore" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:35:03.137" Score="4" ViewCount="5561" Body="&lt;p&gt;Poison Spit states the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you deal damage to monsters give them a poison counter. Monsters take 1 damage for each poison counter they have at the end of their turn. You can get rid of a poison counter with a [Heart] (that [Heart] doesn't heal a damage also).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens with counters that are healed? Are they removed from the game or are they returned to the owner of the card? The card seems overpowered in the second case, as it only costs 4 energy. (The same question for Shrink Ray)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14659" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:20:15.547" Title="King of Tokyo: Poison Spit" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28039" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:43:03.943" Score="5" ViewCount="917" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background Dweller states the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can always reroll any [3] you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you reroll the 3's only after you are done rerolling or also inbetween? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14659" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:27:14.723" Title="King of Tokyo: Background Dweller" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:53:18.717" Score="11" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say the rules are Draw 1 / Play 4, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://store.looneylabs.com/Swap-Plays-For-Draws&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Swap Plays For Draws&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; promotional rule card is in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LnkXA.png&quot; alt=&quot;&amp;quot;Swap Plays For Draws: At any point during your turn, you may decide to play no more cards and instead draw as many cards as you have remaining to play. (If Play All, draw as many cards as you hold.)&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My turn begins and I have zero cards in my hand.&#xA;So I draw one card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I now want to make use of the Swap Plays For Draws rule, how many cards should I draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say &quot;Play 4&quot;, but I can only play one card, because I only have one card in my hand. So should I draw 4 cards or one card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I first play my only card, can I &lt;em&gt;after that&lt;/em&gt; use the Swap Plays For Draws rule and exchange my remaining 3 plays for 3 draws (even though I don't actually have 3 more cards to play)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14660" LastEditorUserId="2203" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T19:09:06.137" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:14:45.953" Title="Swap Plays For Draws and Play X with fewer than X cards on hand" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28040" CreationDate="2015-12-22T21:54:55.973" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In your first scenario, you've drawn one card, played one card, and the rules are now: Draw 4 Play 1.  So, to make up the difference you draw 3 and since you've already played one, your turn is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you start with 1 card, you draw a card, play a card, then play the Swap Rule. At that point, you've drawn 1 card, played 2 cards. The rules are now: Draw 4 Play 1. So, to make up the difference you draw 3 and since you've already played two, your turn is over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T21:54:55.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28038" CreationDate="2015-12-22T22:20:15.547" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't really a concept of them belonging to the owner.  They go back to the token pool, which is where people take them from as needed.  So they can be used again on the same or different players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:20:15.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28037" CreationDate="2015-12-22T22:22:48.333" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only score dice at the end of your turn.  So if you had&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1122233 (using extra dice from other cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would score 2 points for the 123 (but only once), plus 2 points for all the 2s, for a total of 4 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:22:48.333" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28039" CreationDate="2015-12-22T22:27:14.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;At any time, including between other rolls, and these do not count against your normal reroll count.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2015-12-22T22:27:14.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28036" CreationDate="2015-12-23T02:18:37.370" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a matter of partnership agreement!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of agreeing that you can jump in with 11hcp and a singleton is that opener could have a quite strong hand, and doubling gives opener the option of passing with it.  This gives opponents the option of doubling your partner, and they also gain information that is useful in the play.  Another disadvantage is that your partner knows less about your hand when you double.  (This is particularly disadvantageous when opener re-raises to 3 (note most experienced partnerships will play this as a minimum LOTT bid after the double, since they have a redouble/2N as well as help-suit/strong-suit/short-suit tries to invite with) and partner needs to decide whether to compete further.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of agreeing that you can balance with 11hcp and a singleton is that, when you pass and opener passes, your partner now has less pressure to reopen with a marginal hand, because they know more about how unsuitable for competition your hand is.  Also, you have a slightly better chance in finding those 22hcp distributional games in the other major.  Agreeing to double weaker helps you find the game with the 11-11 split in your hcp at the cost of making it harder with the 14-8 split, and the 11-11 split is more likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a similar question when it comes to how strong you need to be to make a takeout double of a weak 2.  Some play that you can do it on about the same strength as a takeout double of an opening 1 bid, and others play you need a point or two extra.  Again you trade the ability to give more information to partner when you do double with the ability to give more information to partner when you don't double.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To some extent, this decision depends on whether you are willing to play Lebensohl (or some other convention achieving similar purposes) or not.  It may make sense to have different agreements over 2H than 2S, but most partnerships are probably not willing to have that memory load on their system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also depends on form of scoring and vulnerability, since getting to -100 (for say 3DX-1 nonvul) rather than -110 (for 2S+2 their way) is much more important at MPs than at IMPs.  (But it depends on form of scoring less than you might think, because conversely getting to +110 (for 3D+3) rather than -110 is worth much a lot more at IMPs than MPs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T02:18:37.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28036" CreationDate="2015-12-23T05:36:09.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My philosophy is that if one has reasonable expectation that partnership assets total 18 HCP or better, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; that one's own holding in the opponents' suit is shorter then partner's, then one strives to enter the auction. If partner never has to consider balancing with the hope that you are short in the opponent's suit to compensate for his three little, (s)he will do so with much greater confidence and success. This hand I consider a clear take-out double of the auction 1H - P - 2H:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: KJT4&#xA;H: 5&#xA;D: QJ98&#xA;C: AT93&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and this one to be quite adequate for an overcall of 2S (playing SOS Redouble and RONF subsequently):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: KJT94&#xA;H: -&#xA;D: QJ98&#xA;C: AT93&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases you are also encouraging partner to underlead any side-K or -Q, which will in both cases probably be a dangerous lead for Declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T05:36:09.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28020" CreationDate="2015-12-23T05:57:34.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Backgammon Book&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, World Champions &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oswald_Jacoby#Other_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oswald Jacoby&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_R._Crawford#Books&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;John Crawford&lt;/a&gt; recommend with both 6-2 and 6-3 moving one runner to the bar point and one man from the 12-point into your own outer table; though they concede that there another move almost as good:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The modern play [written in 1970] is to use the six to move one back man to the black bar point and use the other to move a man from the black twelve point into your outer table. ... Unless [the man on the bar point] is hit by a point-making roll (in this case 6-1; double 6; double 3; or double 1) you will have a lot of possible returns against your opponent's  vulnerable blot; and you have lost little anyways. If your man is not hit your position is highly advantageous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Jacoby and Crawford &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; recommend the modern play above with an opening roll of 6-4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both 6-2 and 6-3 they regard one alternative move each being nearly as good as the modern play recommended above: with 6-3 running with a single runner to the ten point, but with a 6-2 moving a man from your 12-point to your inner board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With a 6-2 we don't like the running play [moving a single man from black one point to black nine point) at all, as it exposes your man to a straight 4 or 3-1 or double 2; a total of 14 possible shots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T05:57:34.003" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28048" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28050" CreationDate="2015-12-23T11:34:20.880" Score="4" ViewCount="7448" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain this variant in details?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do we need the expansions for this variant to work? Or is it also applicable to the base game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11694" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T13:34:04.770" Title="What is 5/5/2 variant of the Machi Koro?" Tags="|variants|machi-koro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28048" CreationDate="2015-12-23T13:34:04.770" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This variant seems to have been introduced with the Harbor Expansion and I'm not sure it would work well with just the base game. It's a way to avoid having only low (resp. high) numbered buildings when using the draw cards rule (instead of having all the buildings available at once).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea is apparently to split the deck into 3 decks :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one with the buildings 1-6 (except purple ones)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one with the buildings 7-14 (except purple ones)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one with all the purple buildings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, when drawing the cards to prepare available buildings, you draw from the first deck until you have 5 different buildings, from the second one until you have 5 different buildings and 2 different purple buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During play whenever someone depletes a pile, draw from the corresponding deck until you reach the wanted number of buildings in this category (5, 5 or 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't know about this variant and this made me curious... I found about it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1315037/3-draw-pile-variantpacing-improved&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this forum thread on BGG&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I might as well give it a go myself ;-)&#xA;Thanks for a good question!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T13:34:04.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15032" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:25:20.583" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a winning opening: Any corner of any quadron. &#xA;If opponent does not play same quadron, you follow the corners of the quadron until you have a double mill opportunity. &#xA;If opponent plays same quadron, proceed to next quadron with same strategy.&#xA;If opponent plays same quadron all 3 times, there is almost always a way to connect existing pieces to a double mill opportunity, unless opponent knows that, in which case he can block.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are now way above beginner level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14664" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:25:20.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28012" CreationDate="2015-12-23T15:56:15.357" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the wording of the card, it suggests you can use it at any point during the defence i.e. after the dice results have been seen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems a bit risky/useless to insist it happens before the dice roll. It would certainly be more fun to see the results first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T15:56:15.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28013" CreationDate="2015-12-23T16:02:01.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From pg. 2 of the Rules Reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an ability is “used,” it can be triggered multiple times each round, but it can only be triggered once per timing instance. For example, an ability that says, “Use while attacking to apply +1H to the attack results,” can only be triggered once during each attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T16:02:01.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28055" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28057" CreationDate="2015-12-23T16:55:20.267" Score="3" ViewCount="13417" Body="&lt;p&gt;How exactly do &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=15142&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Opalescence&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397614&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Humility&lt;/a&gt; interact with each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T08:40:35.503" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T08:40:35.503" Title="How do Opalescence and Humility interact?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28055" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:00:54.963" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With a Humility and two Opalescences on the battlefield, if Humility has the latest timestamp, then all creatures are 1/1 with no abilities. If the timestamp order is Opalescence, Humility, Opalescence, the second Opalescence is 1/1, and the Humility and first Opalescence are 4/4.  If Humility has the earliest timestamp, then everything is 4/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:00:54.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28055" CreationDate="2015-12-23T17:03:00.710" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually directly addressed in the rulings for Opalescence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This is the current interaction between Humility and Opalescence: The type-changing effect applies at layer 4, but the rest happens in the applicable layers.  The rest of it will apply even if the permanent loses its ability before it's finished applying. So if Opalescence, Humility, and Worship are on the battlefield and Opalescence entered the battlefield before Humility, the following is true: Layer 4: Humility and Worship each become creatures that are still enchantments. (Opalescence). Layer 6: Humility and Worship each lose their abilities. (Humility) Layer 7b: Humility becomes 4/4 and Worship becomes 4/4. (Opalescence).  Humility becomes 1/1 and Worship becomes 1/1 (Humility). But if Humility entered the battlefield before Opalescence, the following is true: Layer 4: Humility and Worship each become creatures that are still enchantments (Opalescence). Layer 6:  Humility and Worship each lose their abilities (Humility). Layer 7b: Humility becomes 1/1 and Worship becomes 1/1 (Humility).  Humility becomes 4/4 and Worship becomes 4/4 (Opalescence).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all sounds very confusing, but basically what it is saying is that it depends on which one entered the battlefield first. These types of effects are applied in a &quot;Layer&quot; order. When 2 things would happen in the same layer, they are applied in the order that the effects were created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T17:03:00.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28060" CreationDate="2015-12-23T18:17:56.897" Score="6" ViewCount="2338" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent had an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Lyrist&quot;&gt;Elvish Lyrist&lt;/a&gt; and activated its sacrifice to destroy my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seal%20of%20Fire&quot;&gt;Seal of Fire&lt;/a&gt;. I sacrificed Seal of Fire after that. Would my Seal still do its 2 points of damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14669" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T19:37:40.360" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T03:31:44.480" Title="Can I sacrifice an enchantment when it is going to be destroyed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28058" CreationDate="2015-12-23T18:21:47.493" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can sacrifice the Seal of Fire to do 2 points of damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Lyrist activates its ability, that ability doesn't happen right away, it's put on the stack. While on the stack, you have the chance to respond, and so you activate Seal of Fire, doing 2 damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then Lyrist's ability tries to resolve, but since the enchantment isn't around anymore, it fizzles, but the costs stay paid (mana and sacrifice). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T18:21:47.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28058" CreationDate="2015-12-23T18:37:48.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Activated (and triggered) Abilities are independent of their sources. The typical analogy is of a hand grenade: If a soldier throws a grenade, and then is shot, the grenade will still explode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you activate the seal of fire's ability before the enchantment is destroyed (such as, in response to the effect that would destroy it), the effect still triggers (and does the two damage). In addition, the Elvish lyrist's effect would be countered upon resolution (because Seal of Fire is no longer a valid target), though this is of little importance, because the elf has already been sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This works because abilities do not resolve instantly once activated. Instead, they are put on the Stack. When an item (be it an ability, trigger, spell being cast, or most anything else) goes onto the stack, each player gets an opportunity (called priority) to respond to that item. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, Elvish Lyrist's ability is activated and placed onto the stack. You (along with any other players in the game) will receive priority in turn. While you have priority, you may activate Seal of Fire's ability in response. It goes onto the stack (above Elvish Lyrist's ability). Once each player has passed priority, items on the stack resolve in the reverse of the order they were placed there (ie, First in, Last Out). Additionally, each player will receive priority after each item on the stack resolves; so a player could choose to cast a spell after seal of fire's ability deals damage, but before Elvish Lyrist's ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastEditorUserId="13732" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T21:03:18.080" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:03:18.080" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28040" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:21:18.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good question, and the answer basically depends on how one should interpret the phrase &quot;as many cards as you have remaining to play&quot; in the card text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One interpretation is that this refers strictly to the number of cards the rules &lt;em&gt;tell you&lt;/em&gt; to play (with the following parenthetical remark making a special exception for &quot;Play All&quot;, which one might otherwise interpret as allowing you to draw the whole deck!).  Under this interpretation, you would indeed have the option of drawing 4 cards (or 3 cards after playing one &amp;mdash; unless your read the FAQ literally, in which case you might not be able to do &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; after playing your last card!), regardless of how many cards you actually have in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other interpretation is that this phrase refers to the number of cards you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; actually play at this point (&lt;em&gt;assuming&lt;/em&gt; that none of the effects of those cards granted you extra plays or altered the rules!).  Under this interpretation, the parenthetical remark about &quot;Play All&quot; merely serves to clarify the &quot;general principle&quot; that you cannot play (and Swap Plays For Draws therefore will not let you draw) more cards than you have in your hand.  Thus, with only one card in hand, you would only be able to use Swap Plays For Draws to draw one extra card (or no cards at all, if you already played your one card).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alas, both of those interpretations seem plausible on the face of it, and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/sites/default/files/literature/Fluxx5.0_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fluxx Rules&lt;/a&gt; don't seem to provide any explicit guidance on the matter. The only even marginally relevant bits in the rules that I could find are the following FAQ entries:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; What if the Rules require me to &lt;strong&gt;Play 4&lt;/strong&gt; but I only have 2 cards?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Play as many as you can. Your turn ends when you have no cards left in your hand, even if you are supposed to play more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and possibly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; How do I interpret the &lt;strong&gt;Play All&lt;/strong&gt; card? If, by playing my cards, I receive more cards in my hand, do those new cards have to be played as well, so that I will always end up with zero cards in my hand at the end of my turn as long as &lt;strong&gt;Play All&lt;/strong&gt; is on the table?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strictly literal reading of the former entry (&quot;Your turn ends when you have no cards left in your hand&quot;) suggests that, regardless of the interpretation chosen, you &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; actually activate Swap Plays For Draws after playing the last card in your hand, since your turn will already have ended!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; specifically say that the number of cards you &quot;have remaining to play&quot; is limited by the number of cards you have left in your hand &amp;mdash; it just says that your turn ends when your hand runs out, even if, by the current rules, you're supposed to play more cards.  Thus, while this reading is arguably more consistent with interpretation #2 above, it doesn't actually contradict either of them.  And it's IMO not even clear whether this FAQ entry is really meant to be read &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; literally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only reason I have for quoting the second FAQ entry is to emphasize that the special rule that Swap Plays For Draws has, when combined with Play All, is, while sensible enough (at least when compared to the alternative of drawing the whole deck), &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; actually an accurate match for how Play All normally works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, under Play All, you'd be able to (and would &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to) keep playing until you literally cannot play any more cards, and literally combining this with the basic Swap Plays For Draws rule, without the special exception, would effectively have you draw the whole deck (and the discards too!) until there are no more cards to draw.  Instead, the special rule for Swap Plays For Draws + Play All in the parentheses just has you count your cards to determine the draw/play amount &amp;mdash; which is exactly how the FAQ entry says Play All does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; normally work.  Thus, whereas the first FAQ entry above &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be taken as an argument in favor of the second interpretation, by similar logic this one would seem to be an argument against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, pending a clarification from the designers, I'd have to say that this is something your table may simply have to make a ruling on, and stick to it.  FWIW, I don't think either choice will actually break the game, although they do each offer a different set of strategic options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2203" LastEditorUserId="2203" LastEditDate="2015-12-23T22:02:50.447" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T22:02:50.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:35:13.813" Score="2" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202483&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lich&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Laboratory%20Maniac&quot;&gt;Laboratory Maniac&lt;/a&gt; in play, 3 cards in your deck, and you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Solemn%20Offering&quot;&gt;Solemn Offering&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Serene%20Offering&quot;&gt;Serene Offering&lt;/a&gt; on Lich (either one will heal 4 in this case). Do you win or lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14672" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T08:32:06.883" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T08:32:06.883" Title="Lich + Laboratory maniac, replacement effects order" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28063" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28004" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:45:57.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It's at the start of each turn, including opponent turns&lt;/strong&gt; (assuming the designers are consistent in their wording)&lt;strong&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can use the &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/maltize/KingOfTokyo-CardList/blob/master/KingOfTokyo_CardList%20-%20EN.csv&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;text on some other cards&lt;/a&gt; to work this out. First, we can look at cards that specify an action on the player's turn, which are very specific. This includes cards such as &lt;em&gt;Herbivore&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Metamorph&lt;/em&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Herbivore:&lt;/strong&gt; Gain 1[Star] on &lt;em&gt;your turn&lt;/em&gt; if you don't damage anyone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Metamorph&lt;/strong&gt;: At the end of &lt;em&gt;your turn&lt;/em&gt; you can discard any keep cards you have to receive the [Energy] they were purchased for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can then look at other cards that use the terminology of &amp;quot;each&amp;quot;, which are abilities you would only use on an opponent's turn. Two such cards are &lt;em&gt;Super Jump&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Psychic Probe&lt;/em&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Super Jump&lt;/strong&gt;: Once &lt;em&gt;each turn&lt;/em&gt; you may spend 1[Energy] to negate 1 damage you are receiving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Psychic Probe&lt;/strong&gt;: You can reroll a die of each other monster once &lt;em&gt;each turn&lt;/em&gt;. If the reroll is [Heart] discard this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case, you'd negate damage during an opponent's turn, and in the second you would choose to reroll a die on an opponent's turn. So the phrasing &amp;quot;each turn&amp;quot; in &lt;em&gt;Monster Batteries&lt;/em&gt; indicates that it occurs at the beginning of each turn around the table, whether it is yours or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:45:57.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28062" CreationDate="2015-12-23T21:49:22.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the Offering is resolving you follow the instructions in order, thus first you destroy the Lich, then you gain life. Since Lich is no longer on the battlefield its replacement effect doesn't apply so you will not draw cards instead of gaining life. Then once the Offering is done resolving the Lich's leaves the battlefield trigger will go on the stack and you will lose the game when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2c&lt;/strong&gt; The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. However, replacement effects may modify these actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2015-12-23T21:49:22.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28065" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T00:01:14.177" Score="1" ViewCount="7003" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player 1 has landed on Player 2's property and cannot afford the rent. Can Player 2 accept a property with money to settle the debt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt; Player 1 owes the rent of 500, they have 400 and a property worth 100 (according to the bank). Can Player 2 accept the money and the property to settle that debt? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be considered a trade and it the official rules don't explicitly restrict the time at which a trade can be completed. (However, since it could be considered a trade, Player 2 could consider the property to be worth what they want [and therefore worthless] to bankrupt the Player 1)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a family, we have always played it so that the property is worth the equivalent of its face value. We chose this because it reflects the &quot;real world&quot; in a more accurate way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, after re-reading the rules, taking them at &lt;strong&gt;very&lt;/strong&gt; face value, you should be bankrupt the &lt;strong&gt;moment&lt;/strong&gt; that you cannot afford the rent after mortgaging and selling houses (if by doing that it will cover the rent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm now more on the side of bankrupting without allowing for trading. However, we've been keeping high scores since 2002, it might not be worth it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Summary:&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;When a player cannot pay rent with money, mortgages and buildings, the rules can be interpreted in 4 ways: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the player is bankrupt immediately. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the player may trade with the other players, except the creditor. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the player may trade with any other player. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;s&gt;the player may use the face value of the card to pay towards the debt.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14675" LastEditorUserId="14675" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T09:49:23.887" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T17:22:31.573" Title="Trading Property to settle a debt in Monopoly" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2015-12-25T15:02:14.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28065" CreationDate="2015-12-24T00:41:42.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's unclear about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You are declared bankrupt if you owe more than you&#xA;  can pay either to another player or to the Bank. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... A bankrupt player must immediately retire from the&#xA;  game. The last player left in the game wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless one can find a way to clear the entire debt &lt;s&gt;while retaining an asset of at least $1 value&lt;/s&gt;, thus avoiding &lt;em&gt;bankruptcy&lt;/em&gt;, the &lt;em&gt;bankrupt&lt;/em&gt; player is out of the game; just as the rule stipulates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the beauty of the game is the simplicity of the rules as written. Imagining considerations that are not actually in the rules is what leads to games dragging on for hours; I for one would rather concede a lost game and get started on a second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T17:22:31.573" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T17:22:31.573" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2015-12-24T03:48:44.960" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have read and studied Don's essays with interest and appreciation. His analysis of the game mechanics and general strategic principles are masterly. However, I find myself in disagreement with him on both British and Japanese strategy. Ignoring Britain for the moment (a questionable proposition) I will limit my remarks to Japanese srategy. Historically, by the late spring of 1942, which is ostensibly when the first turn takes place, The battle of Pearl Harbor had been won and lost (and both sides knew which was which). So it helps me to think of it as the battle of Midway. This battle is often referred to as &quot;the turning point in the pacific&quot;. My advice is: ignore America. The American fleet lacks the combat power to be more than an annoyance without significant re-inforcement. If the American player chooses to invest resources in attempting to attack Japan through a naval war of attrition, you will have provided sterling service to the Germans for every IPC the Americans devote to the Pacific.&#xA;     Instead, use your existing fleet agressively. The carrier and submarine are sent to Japan to screen the new transports. I agree whole-heartedly with Don on Jpan's first turn purchase, although for different long-term strategic reasons. The remainder of Japanese combat power in the central and south pacifc is massed off the coast of Burma. Your land based forces will be used to attack eastern China (it is critical to destroy the American fighter even at the cost of not capturing the territory), and possibly a strafe attack on India. This leaves the Americans with their pacifc fleet dispersed and ineffectual and the cores of two battle forces for Japan poised to strike either north or south to respond to any American move in the region. This gives Japan the tactical flexibilty to respond to any move that Britain might have made. America can certainly choose to be a pain in the logistics, but there are a lot more juicy targets out there to help the swing the economic balance back to the Axis side. Good Hunting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="14678" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T15:38:26.563" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T15:38:26.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24768" CreationDate="2015-12-24T04:17:38.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is actually a different mechanic. If a submarine survives the first round of combat there is a specifc step in the combat sequence that allows for submarines to withdraw. Incidently, both combatants have this option. This is more often seen in actions involving fleets using subs as support units, but can be interesting in the case of a lone sub picking off a transport and then using that step in the sequence to position a sub either out of range of enemy response, or to project force in a different direction to influence enemy fleet movements. Always remember, an unused weapon is a useless weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T14:24:45.710" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:24:45.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3991" CreationDate="2015-12-24T04:48:10.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correlation of forces in the initial set-up implies allied strategy. Merely as a survival tool, you must assume a capable German player. The position of allied combat strength demands a concentration of forces against Germany. The allies have the advantage in that all three can attack Germany before she can respond. So, my answer is; don't build a factory anywhere on the first turn. Instead, Britains first turn buy should be a carrier and a transport and save 4 IPCs. During America's turn, the eastcoast fighter lands on the carrier and if the transport on the coast survived it takes two inf. to Britain. This will leave a minimum of 1d for 1, 1d for 3, and 1d for 4 occupying the British sea zone. It will cost the Germans dearly to eliminate this fleet. Using this as the anchor for the shuck-shuck allows the Americans to purchase more land units and not have to spend as much on warships. As the allied strength in the Atlantic grows, the British will be able to transport troops to Africa as well as providing for the scouring of the Med and the prep for final invasion of Germany. A minimum of investment on the part of the Empire to support it's overseas dominions in the early game, allows for an increased ferocity with which to beat back the Japanese. Especially as you will have undistracted support from both the other allies. The Japanese player will run rampant over all sorts of strategicaly secondary territories, and will have a fine time placing flags all over the map. Once the allies crush Germany, Japan can not by herself win against all three allies. So; &quot;Germany First!&quot; is not even a choice, it is strategic necessity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T14:24:57.350" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:24:57.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11920" CreationDate="2015-12-24T05:17:03.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It can be done, but it requires such a level of cooperation among the allies that I wouldn't recommend it unless you are playing all 3 allies. Any Indian factory is a gift to Japan. 'Nuff said. The UK needs to build up it's Atlantic fleet strength (a prerequisite for the over-all strategy to work). US must split their forces and fight a two-front war (never a pleasant prospect). Russia must grit her teeth and eat such infantry casualties as it takes to hold the Germans (also not a pleasant prospect, especially from a game enjoyment level; who likes defend, defend, defend?) UK and US should invest just enough in warships to draw out and destroy the Luftwaffe, on the way to building an infantry push across north Africa and into asia across the Suez (thanks Don!). In the meantime US must build it's poor scattered remnants into something resembling a battle fleet. This is the most delicate and precise part  of this strategy. US must spend just enough to support UK in the atlantic, while retaining enough resources to build a war machine cabable of defeating The Imperial High Seas Fleets. By sacrifing 3 IPCs in India, UK will be able to retain 10 IPCs in Africa. The UK transport fleet keeps the Axis jumping because they can hit anywhere on the coast of Europe or Africa. Between them UK and Russia start with 54 IPCs to Germany's 32. If Us spends as much as Japan in the pacifc (25 IPCs per turn) this leaves US several IPCs per turn to devote to the battle of the atlantic. UK and Russia will have to contain Germany long enough to balance Japan's initially overwhelming military power. It makes for a long and bloody war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T14:25:06.330" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T14:25:06.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28072" CreationDate="2015-12-24T08:51:34.120" Score="6" ViewCount="1695" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play lets say a artifact with CMC 1 and there is two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sphere%20of%20Resistance&quot;&gt;Sphere of Resistance&lt;/a&gt; in play and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trinisphere&quot;&gt;Trinisphere&lt;/a&gt;. Do you have to pay 5 mana or just 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T16:20:02.570" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T16:20:02.570" Title="Sphere of Resistance and Trinisphere" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28071" CreationDate="2015-12-24T09:25:38.800" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to pay just 3. From a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trinisphere&quot;&gt;Trinisphere&lt;/a&gt;, emphasis added:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12/1/2004: Trinisphere's ability affects the total cost of the spell. &lt;strong&gt;It is applied &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; any other cost increasers&lt;/strong&gt; or cost reducers are applied: First apply any cost increases. Next apply any cost reducers. &lt;strong&gt;Finally look at the amount of mana you have to pay. If it's less than three mana, you'll pay three mana.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; taking into account all the present Spheres of Resistance, we determine whether the spell you're casting costs less than 3 mana. Your artifact's already been beefed up to costing {3}, so Trinisphere does nothing extra to it and remains costing {3}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules basis for this is in (currently) &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Casting Spells, 601.2f&lt;/a&gt;. Emphasis added again:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2f &lt;strong&gt;The player determines the total cost of the spell.&lt;/strong&gt; Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. &lt;strong&gt;The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions.&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple cost reductions apply, the player may apply them in any order. If the mana component of the total cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered to be {0}. It can’t be reduced to less than {0}. &lt;strong&gt;Once the total cost is determined, any effects that directly affect the total cost are applied. Then the resulting total cost becomes “locked in.”&lt;/strong&gt; If effects would change the total cost after this time, they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that bolded section in the middle we're applying Sphere of Resistance, and any other cost increases and reductions. Then in the bolded section at the end, we apply effects like Trinisphere which just directly say what the total cost is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T09:33:26.700" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T09:33:26.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28073" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-24T12:54:13.230" Score="5" ViewCount="9247" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride Europe a player may use a train station to use an opponent's route to complete a ticket. When a player does this, does the opponent's route count toward the player's longest route? The rules do not seem to explicitly address this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14682" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T16:18:59.520" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T16:18:59.520" Title="Do train stations cause an opponent's route to count towards longest route?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28073" CreationDate="2015-12-24T13:02:48.107" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No they don't.  The rules explicitly state it twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In longest route scoring it states &quot;Stations, and the opponents’ routes they may provide access to, do not count for the purpose of computing paths and claiming the longest one.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In rules for stations it states &quot;A Train Station allows its owner to use one, and only one, of the routes belonging to another player, into (or out of) that city to help him connect the cities on his Destination Tickets.&quot;  So stations are only used to help complete tickets and no other use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T13:02:48.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28276" CreationDate="2015-12-24T17:11:02.290" Score="6" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play the Star Realms app (against a not-super-intelligent computer) periodically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Today, I found an interesting situation. The AI has only Machine Base in play and I am forcing him to discard ~5 cards a turn. This means that the AI is consistently drawing/trashing a card, since apparently it will &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; use a base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that they will systematically deplete their deck, until they have no more cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While in a PVP situation it's unlikely that your opponent would do this, and I could very easily win now, it's amusing to me to consistently gain health and deplete their deck - are there any rules for Star Realms about this situation? Can you buy a scout?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:17:31.093" Title="Are there any rules in Star Realms for when you have no deck?" Tags="|star-realms|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3629" CreationDate="2015-12-24T17:11:13.553" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a game of economics. It's all about the mighty I.P.C. The 30 I.P.C.s Russia spends to gain this benefit is at the cost of the 5 Inf and 1 Armor worth of combat power that could have stopped the German advance. As the German player I never wait around. I have to swing the economic balance back toward the Axis as rapidly as possible. If the Russian player hits lucky on his first roll, Industrial Technology could win it for him. The problem is, Russian survival depends on the player being cautious, even stolid. Any player who likes to take risks won't last long as Russia anyway. I see the Tech rules as a kind of toybox for the accomplished general who knows, through experience and training, when to take chances and when not to. The best way to determine the relative value of any of the Techs, is to playtest it. Give one power the Tech at the start and see what the impact on game play is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T22:25:35.553" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:25:35.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3745" CreationDate="2015-12-24T17:42:54.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Never.  It is strategically unsound and hideously expensive. You must always factor in the cost of the units invading, and the resultant loss of combat power where it could do some good somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-12-24T22:26:06.023" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T22:26:06.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="475" CreationDate="2015-12-24T18:29:54.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Kwabang attack is a gambit. It should only be attempted by an expert and only in the search for some future startegic goal. This attack by the british is a diversion of scarce resources in a vainglorious attempt to make something happen early. Only by responding to this example of bad play with more bad play will you be in any danger. Take your time and remember that you really do have overwhelming naval power in the pacifc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T18:29:54.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1369" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:00:54.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Britain's problem is that her forces are scattered. The key to victory is Germany. You must build a combat fleet and land troops. First turn buy: 1 Carrier, 1 Transport, save 4 IPCs. Use your combat assets to cleanse the Med. At any cost you must destroy any transports the axis possess. Germany must not be allowed to re-inforce Africa. Pull all your troops back to Egypt and fort up. Fear not, help is on the way. This leaves the same number of troops on both sides in contact. 3 inf, 1 armor, 1 fighter. Knowing the relative combat power on attack and defense, you hope the Germans attack, you need the Germans to attack, you should goad your opponent to attack. These are all the troops Germany will be allowed, the sooner they die, the better for you. You give Japan India for free. But you trade 3 ipcs in India for 10 ipcs in Africa. Japan will rove around and smash things up for a while. But she will be contained and eventually destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T19:00:54.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27044" CreationDate="2015-12-24T19:47:30.760" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the latest boxes of space marines you will get one storm bolter as a sergeant weapon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastActivityDate="2015-12-24T19:47:30.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28081" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-25T01:31:53.863" Score="7" ViewCount="7946" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you score points for claiming a route in Ticket to Ride Pennsylvania as you do in all other variants of the Ticket to Ride game?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules aren't explicit and there is no scoring guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14686" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T18:36:29.180" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T18:36:29.180" Title="Do you score points for claiming a route in Ticket to Ride Pennsylvania?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|scoring|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="946" CreationDate="2015-12-25T03:41:01.150" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes it is a legal move you can find an example on page 11 of the Almanac. Essentially as long as a road has a connection to a city it can be broken up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T03:41:01.150" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28081" CreationDate="2015-12-25T07:58:18.653" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride, the expansions rules feature the differences with the base game ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the routes were not meant to be scored, it would be stated in the rules for that map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the Pennsylvania map, you score using the same points scheme as usual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 space   --&gt; 1pt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 spaces --&gt; 2pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 spaces --&gt; 4pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 spaces --&gt; 7pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 spaces --&gt; 10pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 spaces --&gt; 15pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 spaces --&gt; 18pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/20674407#20674407&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;backed by Alan R. Moon himself&lt;/a&gt; on BGG&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T10:26:55.733" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T10:26:55.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28084" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28087" CreationDate="2015-12-25T18:57:50.633" Score="0" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question arises from this example &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baronbarclay.com/product/1610/January2013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;hand:&lt;/a&gt;. The whole hand is included for reference, although you get to see only your own cards when you bid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are North with (s) AK4 (h) Q98 (d)976 (c) AT86. South bids one diamond, and you respond 2NT (13-15, forcing). Partner bids three diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cliche is that an &quot;opening hand opposite an opening hand equals game.&quot; That implies that &quot;13+13=26 points and is good enough for a major suit game. But it takes about 29 to make a minor suit game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose South has a bare minimum such as (s)J7 (h)42 (d)AK8542 (c)K43&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can a forcing bid such as 2NT be only &quot;forcing to four&quot; (of a suit)? That is, not to game in a minor if you can't see your way to the eleventh trick? If you bid three spades to show your strength in the suit, and South signs off at four diamonds, can you pass? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T23:47:55.383" Title="Is there a bid that is &quot;forcing to four?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28081" CreationDate="2015-12-25T22:56:12.320" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The original USA map says under the rules for 'Claiming Routes':&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;When a player claims a route, he records the points he receives by&#xA;  moving his Scoring Marker on the Scoring Track&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pennsylvania rules say as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;When a player claims a route, he may also take the top Stock Share&#xA;  from any of the Railroads listed on the route he claims.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also starts with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;This rules booklet describes the game play changes specific to the&#xA;  Pennsylvania Map and assumes that you are familiar with the rules&#xA;  first introduced in the original Ticket to Ride&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I take this to means that you do score points when claiming a route as this in the origional rules and taking a share is an additional optional action.  If the expansion rules says it assumes you are familiar with the original game and doesn't specifically say you don't score routes then that rule, along with all other basic rules, still apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T23:21:23.820" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T23:21:23.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28084" CreationDate="2015-12-25T23:47:55.383" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - many pairs play that &quot;forcing to game&quot; actually means forcing to 3N.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As always, this is up to partnership agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2015-12-25T23:47:55.383" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="74" CreationDate="2015-12-26T01:40:37.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Baking with ovens is more of a bonus than an early goal to shoot for and rely on. Livestock and even food from occupations/minors is a better deal than baking. Especially in 4 or 5 player games it's WAY too easy to be blocked out of huge baking action when you need it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pat's list has the right idea, although Pottery is by far the best of the &quot;workshop&quot; improvements. Clay is the most abundant resource in 90% of games. You can never have enough wood between building rooms, fences, and improvements. Reed is also scarce to the point that it's the primary bottleneck for development. Why would you eat it? Clay is almost as abundant as wood and is mostly only used for a cooking improvement and renovation; there's plenty of it and it's not too difficult to get food out of the Pottery every harvest and the full +3 bonus points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14696" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T09:29:00.450" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T09:29:00.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28124" CreationDate="2015-12-26T09:43:24.917" Score="3" ViewCount="1192" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overrun&quot;&gt;Overrun&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infest&quot;&gt;Infest&lt;/a&gt;, THEN play a creature after the prior spell resolves, is that creature affected? I assume so, but is this ever not true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T14:02:22.557" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T05:28:17.723" Title="Do spells that change power/toughness of all creatures until end of turn affect creatures played afterwards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2015-12-28T08:36:59.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28091" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:43:39.820" Score="3" ViewCount="1756" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chief%20of%20the%20Edge&quot;&gt;Chief of the Edge&lt;/a&gt;'s ability count as a +1/+0 counter? I want want to use it for other cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ainok%20Bond-Kin&quot;&gt;Ainok Bond-Kin&lt;/a&gt;'s ability (&amp;quot;each creature you control with a +1/+1 counter gets first strike&amp;quot;). I cant find confirmation anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14702" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T16:53:41.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T20:39:02.430" Title="What counts as a counter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2015-12-26T16:52:47.983" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only things that are actually referred to explicitly as counters are counters. And since Ainok Bond-Kin cares specifically about +1/+1 counters, you should be looking for cards that explicitly create +1/+1 counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Chief%20of%20the%20Edge&quot;&gt;Chief of the Edge&lt;/a&gt; does not put counter(s) on anything, because it doesn't say the word &amp;quot;counter(s)&amp;quot;. Rather, it creates a continuous effect granting +1/+0 to all your Warriors as long as it's on the battlefield, whether they entered the battlefield before or after it. If Chief of the Edge subsequently leaves the battlefield, that effect disappears and those creatures will shrink back down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By far the most common kind of counters are +1/+1 counters, though there are plenty of others. Counters are used for things that are created at a single point in time, are associated with the permanent you place them on, and will stick around indefinitely. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Drana%2C%20Liberator%20of%20Malakir&quot;&gt;Drana, Liberator of Malakir&lt;/a&gt; gives counters to your other attacking creatures, and those counters exist on those creatures independently of Drana, so they'll stick around even if Drana dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side note: there are, by the way, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=%20%5B%22%2B1%2F%2B0%20counter%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some old cards that use +1/+0 counters&lt;/a&gt;, rather than a continuous +1/+0 effect like Chief of the Edge. But those cards would still not work with Ainok Bond-Kin, because it looks for +1/&lt;strong&gt;+1&lt;/strong&gt; counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T17:05:49.487" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T17:05:49.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2015-12-26T18:08:55.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any card that creates counters will mention a specific number of X counters in the card text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many types of counters, and most of them aren't related to power/toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Counter_(marker)/List_of_Counters&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here is a very comprehensive list&lt;/a&gt; of the different types of counters, as well as many examples of cards that create them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T18:08:55.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28095" CreationDate="2015-12-26T18:53:11.340" Score="3" ViewCount="413" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does this wealth card mean? My guess is: I get 10 corn, one less worker and... Maybe get 1 less corn per turn... The rules book doesn't say anything about it.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1mkG201ZcEndGdKQy1hQTZZNFk/view?usp=docslist_api&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1mkG201ZcEndGdKQy1hQTZZNFk/view?usp=docslist_api&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14703" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2015-12-26T19:29:03.550" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T19:54:52.807" Title="Tzolk'in wealth card meaning" Tags="|tzolkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28094" CreationDate="2015-12-26T19:54:52.807" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Tile comes from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/134380/tzolk-mayan-calendar-mini-expansion-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tzolk'in - the mini-expansion 1&lt;/a&gt; a goodie from Spielbox magazine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how to use it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus Starting Wealth - Cistern&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your tribe has figured out how to draw water out of the surrounding&#xA;  soil and and store it in an underground cistern. The ecological impact&#xA;  of this feat of engineering harms the other tribes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you choose this Starting Wealth Tile, you get 10 corn. Each of your&#xA;  opponents starts with 1 less corn. (An opponent whose Starting Wealth&#xA;  Tiles provide no corn is not affected.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you draw this tile when placing dummy workers, it indicates that&#xA;  you will play this game with one less dummy worker than usual (11&#xA;  instead of 12 in a two-player game or 5 instead of 6 in a three-player&#xA;  game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Help your culture grow and flourish, and the gods will smile upon you.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this mini-expansion is also supposed to come with a monument tile: the Granary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T19:54:52.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28096" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-26T20:10:02.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tzolk'in: The Mayan Calendar&lt;/strong&gt; is a game from Simone Luciani and Daniele Tascini, published by &lt;a href=&quot;http://czechgames.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Czech Games Edition&lt;/a&gt;. The publisher's description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tzolkin: The Mayan Calendar presents a new game mechanism: dynamic worker placement. Players representing different Mayan tribes place their workers on giant connected gears, and as the gears rotate they take the workers to different action spots.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During a turn, players can either (a) pay corn to place one or more workers on the lowest visible spot of the gears or (b) pick up one or more workers ... [and perform the corresponding action (the longer the worker stays on the Gear, the more powerful the action.)]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Useful links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://czechgames.com/en/tzolkin-the-mayan-calendar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The game's official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/126163/tzolk-mayan-calendar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Boardgamegeek entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:16:06.253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:16:06.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28097" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-26T20:10:02.470" Score="0" Body="A Mayan-themed worker placement game." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:16:06.253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:16:06.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28101" CreationDate="2015-12-26T20:13:03.317" Score="0" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the data and destiny expansion did not come with any deck lists I was wondering if anyone had tips for how to construct decks for these new runners Apex, Adam and Sunny Lebeau&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14704" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T06:12:33.997" Title="Android netrunner data and destiny deck lists" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28026" CreationDate="2015-12-26T23:58:42.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for me, I do not think about hand strength here. There are only 3 reasons to bid, and if you have 2 of them- you can bid:&#xA;Constructive - to bid you best contract&#xA;Destructive - create a problem for opponents&#xA;Defense plan &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here you suggest very different hands. I'll answer about AKQJx -3-3-2, because KQJxx, Axx, Jxx xx is completely ok to open imho.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like to open 1s with AKQJx. For several reasons.&#xA; If you are going to win the bidding - you would probably choose NT or spades. So, if you finish in spades - you are definitely playing from the wrong side. May be it's impossible to reach spades from another, but who knows? If your partner supports spades, your J almost disappears. And you still have 8 losers.&#xA;If you find NT- how many HCP you need to win the game? Something like 14-16 , otherwise you will not find 4 tricks, or opps will hit their suit faster.&#xA;Of course, much less could be enough, with some lucky leads and distribution. But generally, your partner should hold strong NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For destruction I can open 2sp. This does not work very good, because of flat shape, but if I want to make a move...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For lead- you don't need to open. If opps bid 1nt-3nt - double. If they have lots of points- they will walk to 3nt if you pass. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14150" LastActivityDate="2015-12-26T23:58:42.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T03:05:42.333" Score="1" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thornwood%20Falls&quot;&gt;Thornwood Falls&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Simic%20Guildgate&quot;&gt;Simic Guildgate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I allowed to run four of each of these cards in one deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find a ruling on this, maybe my google-fu is a bit off though...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14707" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T03:17:46.027" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T03:17:46.027" Title="Can I run two different dual lands that produce the same colors of mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2015-12-27T10:12:34.650" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28098" CreationDate="2015-12-27T06:12:33.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes!&#xA;Instead of answering here, I'll link you to &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;netrunnerdb&lt;/a&gt;. It is one of several sites that provide tools for building and sharing Android: Netrunner decks. If you are looking for ideas around a specific card or group of cards, you can do a query like &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/decklists/find?faction=&amp;amp;cards[]=09037&amp;amp;author=&amp;amp;title=&amp;amp;sort=popularity&amp;amp;packs[]=1&amp;amp;packs[]=8&amp;amp;packs[]=21&amp;amp;packs[]=28&amp;amp;packs[]=35&amp;amp;packs[]=2&amp;amp;packs[]=3&amp;amp;packs[]=4&amp;amp;packs[]=5&amp;amp;packs[]=6&amp;amp;packs[]=7&amp;amp;packs[]=9&amp;amp;packs[]=10&amp;amp;packs[]=11&amp;amp;packs[]=12&amp;amp;packs[]=19&amp;amp;packs[]=18&amp;amp;packs[]=22&amp;amp;packs[]=23&amp;amp;packs[]=24&amp;amp;packs[]=25&amp;amp;packs[]=26&amp;amp;packs[]=27&amp;amp;packs[]=29&amp;amp;packs[]=30&amp;amp;packs[]=31&amp;amp;packs[]=32&amp;amp;packs[]=33&amp;amp;packs[]=34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; to see decks other people have built that include that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T06:12:33.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28158" CreationDate="2015-12-27T06:13:48.900" Score="7" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;The one part of &lt;em&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/em&gt; I don't like is when players have to leave the game because their monster dies. Are there any variants/house rules that keeps players in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T16:52:58.197" Title="Do dead monsters really have to leave the game?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27902" CreationDate="2015-12-27T07:45:53.763" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Now that I've played the game with 3 players (we're at the end of october right now) my feeling is a little more contrasted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the game works perfectly well in this configuration (and is a blast BTW)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you might get more variation in the characters played by adding a fourth player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our experience was that with 3 players, we almost (at least at the beginning of the campaign) always played the same subset of characters. You don't always get to play the same role as you attribute them at the end of the setup, depending on the cards in hands and the situation on the board but still. We were often arguing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;hey we could get use of this one this time!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Yeah sure, which one of the fab 3 do we remove?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;OK let's keep'em&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T07:45:53.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6472" CreationDate="2015-12-27T12:09:12.067" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;if a player owes to a landlord and does not have enough cash to pay the debt, but would be able to pay the debt in full after mortgaging properties they select, the player must do so (mortgage one or more properties) before making any deal with a third party to aquire funds for payment to the landlord that is owed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or said another way...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player sells a property to a third party before mortgaging to pay their current debts it creates a situation where players can skew markets unreasonably in dealing with a player that faces financial hardship due to rent or taxes/bank fees.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A player in debt should not be able to sell park place at a discounted rate to a third party player who owns boardwalk so that a current debt can be paid to a landlord, or at least not without offering the same deal or value to the landlord who is owed first&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The indebted player must handle their affairs in order of priority, first being to pay rent due by way of using one current assets, cash or otherwise, and only then can deals can be made on mortgaged property if the player was able to avoid bankruptcy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14712" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T12:09:12.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28173" CreationDate="2015-12-27T15:51:50.197" Score="0" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the cards in in &lt;em&gt;Awesome Kingdom&lt;/em&gt; feature a color-coded gem on the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of them have icons in the gem but I couldn't find their meaning in the rulebook or any card mentioning them...&#xA;I'm talking about the icons on the 6 leftmost cards on the picture below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RzQP1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RzQP1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Awesome Kingdom cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Khan of Cons&lt;/em&gt; card was labelled as a bonus for the first print run of the game and is the only card with this icon so I assume it means goodie or something like that. The other 5 cards (plus some other in the game) all feature a crowned skull icon.&#xA;Does anyone have an idea of its meaning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T16:02:56.517" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T02:12:55.850" Title="Icons meaning in Awesome Kingdom: The Tower of Hateskull" Tags="|awesome-kingdom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28106" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T15:57:41.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Awesome Kingdom is designed by Kevin Wilson and published by &lt;a href=&quot;http://idwgames.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IDW games&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://idwgames.com/games/awesome-kingdom/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official web page&lt;/a&gt; for the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/176502/awesome-kingdom-tower-hateskull&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:13:58.210" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:13:58.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28107" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T15:57:41.257" Score="0" Body="A dungeon-crawl card game." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:13:58.210" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:13:58.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28108" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T16:30:23.530" Score="3" ViewCount="4624" Body="&lt;p&gt;In base Catan, the rules allow you to play a Knight card before you roll the dice. Obviously, there are no Development Cards in Cities and Knights, and instead there are physical knight tokens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule book doesn't seem to specifically address if you can use your activated Knight token to chase away the Robber on your turn &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; you roll the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rules do not specifically say you can, and by default the dice roll is usually always required as the first action of your turn, our group agrees to play that you can only use a Knight action &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; you roll the dice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we missing something in the rules? Does a Catan FAQ somewhere answer this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12532" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T16:50:43.213" Title="In Catan Cities &amp; Knights, can you use a Knight action before you roll the dice?" Tags="|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28108" CreationDate="2015-12-27T16:50:43.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/42354/catan-cities-knights-completely-annotated-rules-al&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a link to the Completely Annotated Rules &amp;amp; Almanac&lt;/a&gt; for Catan Cities and Knights by Derek Whaley on BGG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how official this can be, but the turn overview on page 8 makes it quite clear that you can't use a Knight action before rolling the dice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who placed the last city takes the first turn. Each player,&#xA;  going clockwise around the table, performs the following actions, in&#xA;  the order listed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You must roll all 3 dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The results of the event (symbol) die are resolved)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Progress Cards may be drawn (depending on the result of the event die).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;All players produce the commodities indicated by the red and yellow dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You may do any or all of the following in any order:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Trade resources and/or commodities with the bank and/or players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Build roads, settlements, cities, knights, city walls, and/or city improvements.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Activate, promote, and/or perform actions with your knights.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Play any number of Progress Cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: The “Alchemist” Progress Card can only be played before the dice are rolled. It is the only Progress Card that can be used before&#xA;  the dice are rolled and the results resolved&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T16:50:43.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28091" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:10:07.503" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't.  Even if it did, it wouldn't be a +1/+1 counter, so it wouldn't count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:10:07.503" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25558" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:15:27.313" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This happened to me.  4 people were playing.  Person A had a Hotel on the Oranges, and Person B landed on them.  They had a few Monopolies, and lots of mortgaged property.  According to the rules, you can trade to get money.  So, Person B traded all their property to me(Person C) for 1 dollar.  Then, many turns later, I went bankrupt to Person A, and I sold all of my stuff to Person D for 1 dollar.  So, effectively a merger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can not technically merge however, but loopholes exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14650" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:15:27.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3690" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:19:24.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Effectively, these decisions depend upon variable inital starting conditions. In my case, If I am playing any power save Russia, My first move will depend on the actions of the other combatants. Russia is pretty well thrown on the defensive from the start. The correlation of forces on the Eastern Front suggest to the mind of the eager and bloodthirsty young Wermacht officer, that an all out attack will wipe the bolsheviks from the face of the Earth. And it CAN be done. All out attack purchasing only armor, the Germans can indeed drive an armored column through the streets of Moscow; at the price of the remaining Allies disecting your war machine with sugical precision at their leisure.  This is the big (nearly pathological from what I infer) fear that drives Russia to commit to total defense from the start. All the strategic thinking I have encountered seems to be based on the idea that all the players actions will be scripted for at least the first 3-4 turns, and that any deviation from the program leads to irrecovocable and ignominius defeat. I would suggest that if my opponents actions are known to me in advance, I will immediately look for a way to twist that to my advantage.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you are Britain. You've been playing for a while and feel pretty comfortable. Every body knows what's going to happen, so they are looking for that moment when the dice go to crap, or someone makes a mistake.  Along comes a spider...   Britain makes her stardard first buy, I.C. save the rest. You move your troops from Africa and the middle east, and fort up expecting help from America. By transferring every piece of readily available mililtary gear to India, I will end the turn with 3 inf/1 ftr/1 trns. I am expecting Japan to Pearl. That's the plan, right?&#xA;     The problem lie in the willingness of your opponent to cooperate. As the Japanese player faced with this scenario I experience several emotions. The first is a kind of avaricious lust to possess that factory. This leads to moment of calculation, a judging of the balance of power, if you will, followed by joyous realization. The final stage is a tactical tunnel vision. The only thing I can see is India. All my military goes there. After combat movement (assuming no battle) Japan can have poised to attack on turn 2; 10 inf, 5 ftr, 1 bmbr, plus naval support.I submit no amount of effort on the part of the Allies will prevent the fall of the complex, unless the Allies are willing to surrender the rest of the war. India can be a strategic pivot in the Pacific war, but only achieves critical status if the Allies build the factory. Approached as a delaying tactic to support Russia, it can be minimally effective. But after due consideration, the Indian factory can only be employed as a gambit nad not a strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:19:24.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:40:26.660" Score="1" ViewCount="8186" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monopoly Empire what is the official winning position for a player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules seem ambiguous by stating that the winner is the first person to build the tower to the top, but that raises two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can the tower 'spill over' the top?  For instance, if you need to fill one space can a 4-space billboard be bought to win the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Do the billboards have to fit in the tower spaces perfectly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14714" LastEditorUserId="2949" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T10:11:02.373" LastActivityDate="2018-09-20T20:52:37.563" Title="What is the winning position in Monopoly Empire?" Tags="|monopoly-empire|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3720" CreationDate="2015-12-27T17:40:32.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most strategy I hear proposed seems to follow a pattern. &quot;After the enemy has taken the predictable action, you can respond in this fashion...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The russian strategy of massive defense is based on the idea that Germany will blindly throw itself on your wall. Thanks I'll pass. If infantry defend twice as well as they attack, suggests to me that I need buy only half as many units as the expected attacker. Russia buys 8 inf, Germany need buy only 4 to maintain parity. This leaves you a little wiggle room to think outside the box. A Med fleet build-up allows Germany to not only capture Africa, But even perhaps, hold it. This will quickly become painful to the British cash flow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;In any event, Allowing the enemy to dictate your tactics is the first step toward defeat.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14678" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T17:40:32.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32820" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:44:19.533" Score="0" ViewCount="114" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Largest Target Crossfire card says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of each turn, if any runner has more HP than the others,&#xA;  that runner takes 1 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that each turn if there is a single runner with more HP than every other runner, he takes 1 damage? Brutal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T18:45:57.440" Title="Does Largest Target affect only whoever uniquely has the most HP?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28117" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28118" CreationDate="2015-12-27T18:46:35.993" Score="0" ViewCount="37" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Scavenging Crossfire card says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the start of each turn, the current runner randomly discards 1&#xA;  card. Then for each of their roles, that runner can return a card from&#xA;  their discard to their hand that has a color that matches that role&#xA;  color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the additional effect for crossfire discard piles of 3 or more says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Instead, that runner randomly discards 1 card after returning cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wording confuses me.  Do I randomly discard, then return cards for each role, then discard again?  The &quot;Instead&quot; in the wording implies that the second discard is in place of doing something after the card returning, but the original text doesn't do anything after the card returning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T21:58:42.547" Title="Does the extra effect in Scavenging lead to 2 discards?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28117" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:15:04.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will only discard one card as that is all the crossfire rule calls for. If you notice it specifies how many cards to draw based on the game setup and it specifies how many to discard under all game setups. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the normal version you discard then draw meaning you won't discard what you will draw. Also you can draw the card you just discarded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the hard version you draw then discard meaning you can discard a card you just drew. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2015-12-27T21:58:42.547" LastActivityDate="2015-12-27T21:58:42.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-27T20:25:23.957" Score="1" ViewCount="7101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I pot the last red C/m, the last white C/m and the Striker together. The Queen isn't on the board. Is that a win for me or do I return the C/m with a penalty?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14716" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T09:23:37.693" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T12:44:15.867" Title="What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Striker in one shot?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-05T00:53:47.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28121" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:24:18.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the publisher:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Monopoly Empire game, players can own the world's top brands. After choosing one of the uniquely branded tokens, players move around the board, and start building their empires. The game is a race to the top as players buy their favorite brands one by one and fill their towers. Opponents collect rent from their rivals; the higher their tower, the more they can charge! For two to four players, the first player to fill their tower with billboards wins!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Links:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/en-us/product/monopoly-empire:6E109F26-5056-9047-F50A-9DEECFC6D05A&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The official web page on Hasbro&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/145842/monopoly-empire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The BGG Entry&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:12:25.077" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:12:25.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28122" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:24:18.480" Score="0" Body="Real-world brand-themed Monopoly variant." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:12:25.077" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:12:25.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28130" CreationDate="2015-12-27T21:44:46.607" Score="8" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the benefits of having docked ships on the assault carrier? Why would I want them docked? Why not just deploy them at the start of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, what benefit or advantage does the assault carrier provide?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:12:39.213" Title="Assault carrier benefits?" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28090" CreationDate="2015-12-28T02:00:49.733" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it will not be affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer varies based on what created the effect, and what the effect does. The following are the three cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A continuous effect generated by a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered by 611.3a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3a A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t “locked in”; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A continuous effect generated by something other than a static ability, and it modifies the characteristics of objects. (Characteristics are defined CR 109.3, included below.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered by the first half of 611.2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won’t change. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A continuous effect generated by something other than a static ability, and it doesn't modify the characteristics of objects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is covered by the second half of 611.2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c [...] A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability that doesn’t modify the characteristics or change the controller of any objects modifies the rules of the game, so it can affect objects that weren’t affected when that continuous effect began. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overrun&quot;&gt;Overrun&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infest&quot;&gt;Infest&lt;/a&gt;, we're talking about a continuous effect generated by something other than a static ability, and it modifies the characteristics of objects. As such, only the permanents that were creatures when the spell resolved are affected by the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.3. An object’s characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects can have some or all of these characteristics. Any other information about an object isn’t a characteristic. For example, characteristics don’t include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell’s target, an object’s owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T05:28:17.723" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T05:28:17.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28129" CreationDate="2015-12-28T03:13:23.873" Score="0" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that this is allowed when a declarer has &quot;technical&quot; problems. So in a sense, the question is about what constitutes a legitimate technical problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the declarer wins the first trick, he can pause, because there is the issue of what to lead next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose there is a singleton of the first led suit in the dummy, the play of which is forced. Suppose the declarer anticipates having a technical problem in the closed hand regarding whether to accept or refuse the first trick. Can he pause to study the whole hand before playing from dummy or does he need to play immediately from the dummy and wait until the trick arrives at his closed hand before pausing? That is to say, since he is playing both the dummy and hand, can he pause at the dummy based on a problem in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose dummy has a singleton, East plays the ace, declarer has Kx (or Qx), and wants to make a decision whether or not to false card with the honor. Is this an allowable technical problem for a pause either at dummy or in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponents retain the lead, must the declarer wait until he has a technical problem regarding an opposing lead to pause and study the hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, can the two sides mutually agree that the declarer will not play from dummy for at least say, five seconds, so that BOTH sides will have a chance to study the board?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:40:01.200" Title="Under what circumstances is a declare allowed to &quot;pause&quot; upon seeing the dummy?" Tags="|bridge|etiquette|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20567" CreationDate="2015-12-28T04:02:24.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All that matters is the English name of the card, not what it does. You can have at most four copies of a card with a given name:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;100.2a In constructed play (a way of playing in which each player creates his or her own deck ahead of time), each deck must contain at least sixty cards. A constructed deck can have any number of basic land cards and no more than four of any card with a particular English name other than basic land cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main exception is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?output=spoiler&amp;amp;method=visual&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;type=+[%22Land%22]+[%22Basic%22]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;basic land cards&lt;/a&gt;: Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, Forest, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?output=spoiler&amp;amp;method=visual&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;type=+[%22Land%22]+[%22Basic%22]+[%22Snow%22]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;five corresponding Snow lands&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWastes%5d&quot;&gt;Wastes&lt;/a&gt;. The only other time you can have more than four of a given card is when the card itself says so, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRelentless%20Rats%5d&quot;&gt;Relentless Rats&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A deck can have any number of cards named Relentless Rats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you can have four copies each of several different Rat cards: four copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTyphoid%20Rats%5d&quot;&gt;Typhoid Rats&lt;/a&gt;, four copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPack%20Rat%5d&quot;&gt;Pack Rat&lt;/a&gt;, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it also doesn't matter if the cards do the exact same thing, as long as the name is different. You can indeed have four &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEssence%20Scatter%5d&quot;&gt;Essence Scatter&lt;/a&gt; and four &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRemove%20Soul%5d&quot;&gt;Remove Soul&lt;/a&gt;..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can only have up to four copies of cards you're actually allowed to play. If a card is banned or otherwise illegal in the format you're playing, you can't have any, and if it's restricted you can have only one copy. See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18534/how-should-i-determine-whether-a-deck-is-legal-in-a-particular-format&quot;&gt;How should I determine whether a deck is legal in a particular format?&lt;/a&gt; for discussion of that and other deck restrictions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, there are also some singleton formats like commander where you do construct your deck ahead of time, but the usual four copies rule is replaced by a one copy rule. Again in those cases, only card name matters, so you can have one copy each of several cards that do the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T04:02:24.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28127" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T04:46:03.440" Score="3" ViewCount="449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was in a situation where I lost due to a combo where a creature that deals combat damage mills me due to an enchantment attached to it. I lost the game due to not knowing that ability was on the card. My opponent knew but decided not to tell me when he declared that attacker. Was it the defenders (my) job to read the card and block it, or was the attacker in the wrong for not declaring its ability when attacking. Also, if the trigger goes off as a result of the defending player not knowing, would the defending player be allowed to reassign a blocker in response?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14719" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T21:06:09.680" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T21:06:09.680" Title="Who is in charge of knowing abilities of blockers and attackers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28127" CreationDate="2015-12-28T05:01:47.360" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's your job to read the card, no matter what the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent never has to explain cards to you. You can always request to read any card, and if you don't know for sure everything that a given card does, you probably want to read it. (If it's an old card or a foreign card, you could also look up the current oracle text of the card in Gatherer.) Your opponent has no more obligation to let you know that a creature has an ability than they do to remind you that it has enough power to kill you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that creature had a triggered ability (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindscour%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Mindscour Dragon&lt;/a&gt;), your opponent is responsible for remembering that trigger. But they only have to do so once it triggers and needs to affect the game state, i.e. once you've already let it hit you and it's going to mill you. They don't have to warn you ahead of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent is certainly &lt;em&gt;allowed&lt;/em&gt; to help you out if they wish to; in casual play you might end up doing this in order to have more fun games and not waste time on really obvious mistakes. I've certainly pointed things out sometimes when it was clear my opponent didn't realize what my cards did, in friendly kitchen table games when they'd have done the same. But there's definitely no obligation to do this under the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So bottom line, you just made a mistake, and you're not allowed to go back and change a decision because of it. It's unfortunate for you, but hopefully it provides some incentive to read the cards more carefully next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to know more details about player communication, it's covered in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; - search for &amp;quot;player communication&amp;quot;. If you actually ask your opponent a question, there are some things they do have to tell you (covered under &amp;quot;free information&amp;quot;). But they don't have to volunteer anything beyond what's necessary to progress the game (e.g. &amp;quot;I cast this&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;I attack with this&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;I take 3 damage&amp;quot;, &amp;quot;that creature should be dead&amp;quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T14:20:58.987" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T14:20:58.987" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28125" CreationDate="2015-12-28T13:37:21.727" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Always - it is a recommended action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Declarer I &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; pause for the 5 or so seconds you recommend when Dummy comes down; as East I will do so (by initially playing my card to the first trick face down) whenever Declarer has been so discourteous and undiscerning as to not do so. Occasionally I have to pause longer, for particularly complex hands, but I do so with the understanding that I have keyed this difficulty to the opponents, perhaps earlier than they otherwise would have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of restrictions on Dummy during play of the hand, Declarer need not be concerned with the provision of &lt;em&gt;Unauthorized Information&lt;/em&gt; to partner. However there is great benefit in not keying moderately difficult hands to the opponents. Develop the habit of always studying Dummy before playing to the first trick and your results will improve slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is always improper &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and potentially unethical&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; for Dummy to play a card from &lt;em&gt;Dummy&lt;/em&gt; before said card is specifically called by Declarer - even if that card is a singleton to be played to the &lt;em&gt;opening lead&lt;/em&gt;. It is very possible for Dummy to provide &lt;em&gt;Unauthorized Information&lt;/em&gt; to Declarer, and that is a reason for many of the restrictions on Dummy's actions during play of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/acbl-content/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot;&gt;Laws of Duplicate Bridge - 2008&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 41 - COMMENCEMENT OF PLAY&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D. Dummy's Hand&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... Declarer plays both his hand and that of dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 43 - DUMMY's LIMITATIONS&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Except as Law 42 allows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Limitation on Dummy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;(c) Dummy must not participate in the play, nor may he &#xA;  communicate anything about the play to declarer.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;B. If a Violation Occurs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Dummy is liable to penalty under Law 90 for any&#xA;  violation of the limitations listed in A1 and A2&#xA;  above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above is very clear. If my partner ever &lt;strong&gt;suggests the play of a singleton&lt;/strong&gt; from Dummy (which as noted above is all that Dummy can do, as only Declarer is able to make a play from Dummy by specifying the card.) I will call the Director myself to further reinforce the inappropriateness of the action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T13:44:37.030" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T13:44:37.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28123" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:12:39.213" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interestingly enough they had an article on this just a short while ago: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2015/12/23/begin-your-pursuit/&quot;&gt;Begin Your Pursuit&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize to just your question, I think there's three major benefits:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships that are docked are not &quot;on the table&quot; and can't be targeted in any way, making sure your more fragile ships make it into the heart of the battle without taking damage.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships that are 'undocking' move from the front (or rear) of the Assault Carrier itself, so your ship can deploy further into the battle or into a better position.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships 'undock' as part of the Huge Ship resolution, which is always after all smaller ships, so your lower Pilot Skill fighters can deploy and maneuver into place &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the opponent's higher Pilot Skill ships have already moved and boosted/rolled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article provides a great example of these three in combination by using Captain Jonus and 3 other TIE Bombers, moving the &lt;em&gt;Vector&lt;/em&gt;-titled Assault Carrier a full 4-straight forward and then deploying the bombers another 4-straight forward, putting them in range to Target Lock and volley Ion Torpedoes or Assault Missiles directly into the heart of your enemy's formation before they have a chance to spread out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:12:39.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28146" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:13:34.110" Score="0" ViewCount="575" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to play a fuel card without moving?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fuel card: &quot;WASTE PILE: Play this card when moving a survivor you control...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule book: &quot;Play a card: as many times as he likes during his turn, a player may play a card from his hand. To play a card, place it on top of the waste pile.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14722" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T04:30:07.037" Title="Can you play fuel cards without moving" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18719" CreationDate="2015-12-28T16:48:02.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to get a good handicap going is to attack ruthless and try and make the other players ban together to stop you.( this works best with lanister since no one like them in the first place) this can give you a huge handicap if you are playing with a 4-6 player game and I can assure you that if your fighting 5 players by yourself, then your going to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14723" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T16:48:02.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28134" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:06:00.760" Score="2" ViewCount="2485" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it guaranteed that there is a foil rare in every booster box? I've recently finished opening a box and there was no foil rare and many duplicates. I already searched the web to see if it is guaranteed and couldn't find anything. I'm wondering if it was a printing/manufacturing error, or just bad luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9981" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T19:59:55.687" Title="Foil rares in booster boxes?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28133" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:13:34.087" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It is a strong statistical possibility that a foil rare can be found in a box, but it isn't assured. It is statistically possible to open a booster box and find zero premium cards, as well as zero mythic rares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probabilistic expectation, if you were to open an innumerable amount of booster boxes, is that there will be six premium cards per booster box, with one of those six premium cards being a rare. Further, it is expected that one foil mythic rare will be opened for every eight booster boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T17:57:09.430" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T17:57:09.430" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28135" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28141" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:18:42.663" Score="1" ViewCount="179" Body="&lt;p&gt;when using the rule for adding the three red fives in riichi mahjong, does one &lt;em&gt;add&lt;/em&gt; the fives to the set, or do they &lt;em&gt;replace&lt;/em&gt; fives already in the set with the red fives?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14724" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T23:30:33.717" Title="How to add red fives to a riichi set?" Tags="|riichi-mahjong|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28136" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T17:45:01.970" Score="7" ViewCount="2538" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been wondering which country spends the most money on board / card games? Are there any statistics available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7213" LastEditorUserId="16225" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T16:46:45.060" LastActivityDate="2018-01-17T15:17:29.813" Title="Which country spends the most on board &amp; card games?" Tags="|statistics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28137" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-28T22:12:35.750" Score="2" ViewCount="610" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/booty_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to the rule book&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships are Items, and follow normal Item rules.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are also a few Items that specifically enhance Ships.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Ship with an Enhancer has the Enhancer’s gold value added to its own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enhancers cannot be moved between Ships.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reading this, I would expect enhancers to be permanently attached to the ship. So if the ship is stolen, the enhancers are also stolen with it. Also, enhancers cannot be stolen off the ship separately, as that would a) have no point (rule #4) and b) have their value now attached to the ship (rule #3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that a correct read?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14729" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T23:22:47.017" Title="Munchkin Booty Ships are 'items', but are Ship Enhancers permanently bound to the ship?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28137" CreationDate="2015-12-28T23:22:47.017" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;em&gt;Ships&lt;/em&gt; are big items, they cannot be stolen by any version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/booty_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; I am familiar with (from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ships&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on &lt;em&gt;page 5&lt;/em&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The “Big” designation on Ships is to control&#xA;  what Traps and Curses affect them, and to keep Thieves in a&#xA;  blender game from pocketing them and walking off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I cannot find a specific rule or faq to verify it, my interpretation of the second query is the same as yours, for the same reason, as items that are &lt;em&gt;ship enhancers&lt;/em&gt; have this text on them: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;enhancers cannot be stolen off the ship separately; ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is less clear to me whether &lt;em&gt;ordinary item enhancers&lt;/em&gt; must obey the same rule. They do not have the standard text for &lt;em&gt;steed/ship enhancers&lt;/em&gt; (from &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ships&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; on *page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...; it follows the Steed[/Ship] if it is lost, stolen or discarded&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the absence of a FAQ stating otherwise, I would apply the same rule as for &lt;em&gt;ship enhancers&lt;/em&gt; on the basis that the common text above from &lt;em&gt;Steed/Ship Enhancers&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;does not say&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &quot;this enhancer&quot;; it says the far more general &quot;enhancers&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T23:22:47.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28142" CreationDate="2015-12-28T23:23:50.367" Score="4" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question isn't about the mechanics or rules of the game, but what dynamics it adds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing several games of the the family friendly version of the Agricola, I played a game of the full version with one other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I found was that the minor improvements and occupations acted and somewhat of a distraction and confusion to the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using them definitely adds to the game play time, because there's more time spent examining your cards, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - what do the minor improvement and occupations add, that make them worth playing with, given that they are essentially an optional feature of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2015-12-28T23:31:14.063" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T00:39:27.047" Title="What do minor improvements and occupations add?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28135" CreationDate="2015-12-28T23:30:33.717" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You replace them, because otherwise we will end up with five copies of the 5-numbered tiles, which is not the intention of using red fives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12357" LastActivityDate="2015-12-28T23:30:33.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28139" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:02:39.743" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first, the additional complexity definitely feels like a downside. But once you play enough, the decisions present in the family version become much more intuitive and faster. At that point, the additional complexity becomes a good thing: deciding which minor improvements and occupations to use (and when) becomes a big, interesting decision. And it's not just wasted time making decisions; using them well has a large effect on your score. In fact, they can be much more meaningful than the worker placement decisions you might agonize over in the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in addition to making the game more interesting to play, they'll also make it a more interesting competition. Once everyone's pretty good at the family game, you'll start to lose control of your destiny: everyone will be able to pick their actions and plan fairly well, so it'll get harder to win by virtue of good strategy. But throw the minor improvements and occupations, and suddenly there's again a lot of room for good (or bad) strategic decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that, they also add a lot of variety and replayability. Since you don't see the same set of cards every game, you're forced to adapt your strategy to suit the cards you have, giving you &lt;em&gt;different&lt;/em&gt; decisions to make each game, not just &lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt; decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in a way, the things you dislike about them now are some of the good things that they add to the game: they add additional decisions, making for a deeper game. Right now that's a bit overwhelming, and you're not able to take full advantage of it, but if you play enough it'll become a positive, defining part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T00:39:27.047" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T00:39:27.047" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12869" CreationDate="2015-12-29T00:26:55.493" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this is an old question but just wanted to add one more point i feel is relevant for others reading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Increasing the cost each play makes sense to me with limited resources, as the reward should be related to the difficulty. With limited resourses if water has been completed twice, there is less hydrogen resourses avaliable which would make constructing water a more difficult feat. Thus the reward should be higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7602" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T00:26:55.493" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2015-12-29T02:01:41.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the biggest mistake when card balance is discussed is people forget that playing an occupation costs 1 action + 1-2 food. With that in mind, a lot of the &quot;broken&quot; cards become reasonable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ratcatcher: You're giving up a stage 1 action + food so that everyone else loses 2 actions much later down the road. Earlier actions are more important so.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wet Nurse: You're using 2 actions 1 food to play the nurse and build a room as opposed to building a room and using the family growth space (which costs no food and lets you build a minor improvement). You have to build at least 2 rooms to come out ahead on this one. If you save up resources to build them in one go, the people who settle for building 1 room are getting that 3rd family member before you. If you build 1 room at a time that's an another action spent on rooms. Don't think this one is broken at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chamberlain: The most overblown of the broken cards in my opinion. You get access to the later spots 2 rounds before everyone else. The only ones that really matter are Family Growth w/o room &amp;amp; Plow+Sow. Considering you're giving up a food/action for these and leaving them uncontested once they come up for everyone else, the card isn't so busted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mail Coach Driver: More annoying than overpowered. I'd put this in the same category as the Ratcatcher. Not broken, just a bummer for everyone to deal with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only card I'd truly call broken is the taster. The benefit is obscene for its negligible cost. I'll echo the other guy's opinion on why The Chief is given such a huge cost when much more powerful cards are cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another that is situationally broken is the Braggart. Depending on the improvements you draw he's either worthless or an instant game winner. If a player gets the Braggart then drafts a bunch of free or cheap improvements, you might as well just call the game before the first turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14732" LastEditorUserId="14732" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T08:58:24.070" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T08:58:24.070" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28131" CreationDate="2015-12-29T04:30:07.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see no mention of any exception, and the wording doesn't specify the option such as by saying &quot;you &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; move a survivor etc&quot;, so it sounds like the answer to your question is no, you may not opt to play it without moving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T04:30:07.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28113" CreationDate="2015-12-29T05:41:37.643" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off I don't see much of a difference between your 2 questions.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you’re the first to hit the top, you win!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you have to fill the entire tower with billboards, including &quot;&lt;em&gt;spilling over&lt;/em&gt;&quot;. No, you do not have to fit the billboards in the tower exactly. Anything beyond the top point doesn't matter anymore since you've already won. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2949" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T05:41:37.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29062" CreationDate="2015-12-29T06:02:38.827" Score="4" ViewCount="3918" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Monopoly Empire&lt;/strong&gt; game, some of the &lt;strong&gt;Empire&lt;/strong&gt; cards say &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to understand the exact meaning of this rule.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does it mean at any time during my turn and/or I am involved in someone else's turn? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or does it mean at any time even during other player's turn who does nothing involving me?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other &lt;strong&gt;Empire&lt;/strong&gt; cards specify they are to be played during one's turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play at any time on your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2949" LastActivityDate="2018-08-06T00:20:34.637" Title="Meaning of: Play at any time" Tags="|monopoly-empire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28150" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T06:11:42.607" Score="0" ViewCount="817" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't understand the special ability a player gains after building the second stage of Alexandria side A. Can someone explain it? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14735" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T13:12:31.173" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T13:12:31.173" Title="7 wonders Alexandria side A special ability" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28151" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T06:16:57.593" Score="0" ViewCount="69" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Trickster Initiate has the ability &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Obstacles ignore colorless damage applied to them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean if I play 3 colored and 3 colorless, could I then use the colored damage to finish killing him and then apply the colorless damage that very turn toward another obstacle?  Essentially, does the ability become nulled the moment he dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T18:59:08.283" Title="Do obstacle abilities work until the moment they are defeated?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28150" CreationDate="2015-12-29T11:32:30.057" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume you inquire about stage #2 of side A. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;Rules, p. 8&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the player gains a resource of their choice from the 4 Raw material types&#xA;  [Stone, Clay, Wood, Ore] every turn.&#xA;  Clarification : this resource cannot be sold through commerce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, each turn you have a wild, exclusive raw material at your disposal, for free, just like if you had bought the &lt;strong&gt;Caravansary&lt;/strong&gt; Age II yellow card. Other players may not buy this resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T11:32:30.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28171" CreationDate="2015-12-29T14:52:40.200" Score="7" ViewCount="5590" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin, what is the logic behind the rule of carry and equip items? What is the difference between carry and just keep the card in your hand? It is not simplier keep in hand and not use the carry rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13463" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T14:15:15.033" Title="What´s the reasoning for carry and equip items in Munchkin?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28153" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:03:20.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it prevents you from having more than 5 cards in hand, you avoid the charity rule, requiring that you discard down to 5 cards in hand by donating the remainder to the lowest level player or the discard pile, at the end of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to carry items, allows you to build a stock of items beyond those you are able to equip, whether restricted by class limitations or available body slots. For example, short an item providing additional hands, you only have two; you can only equip 1 two-handed item, or 2 one-handed items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T16:12:37.140" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T16:12:37.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28179" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:05:06.327" Score="3" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the end-game scoring of Sheriff of Nottingham the majority holder of each legal commodity gets a bonus, as does the 2nd-majority holder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If one play happens to be the only trader of a commodity do they get both bonuses or just the 1st-majority one?  Not covered by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T16:24:33.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T19:17:44.987" Title="Does a monopoly in a commodity in Sheriff of Nottingham gain both bonuses?" Tags="|scoring|sheriff-of-nottingham|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28153" CreationDate="2015-12-29T15:48:21.043" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You equip items so you can get their benefits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are restrictions to what you can equip. You can't equip items for which you don't have the required free body slots (e.g. hand). You can't equip items for which you don't meet race and class requirements. You can't equip &quot;use only once&quot; items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You keep items you can't equip in your hand to protect them from traps and thieves, and to hide what they are from other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But there are limits to one's hand size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You carry items you can't equip and won't fit in your hand to avoid having to discard them, or worse, having to give them to another player through the charity rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you might hold back from equipping an item in your hand if you think you might lose it (e.g. to a thief, especially one at level 1), but there's virtually no reason not to equip something you can equip if you're currently carrying it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T15:48:21.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28159" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:12:00.493" Score="2" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temur%20Ascendancy&quot;&gt;Temur Ascendancy&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Knuckleblade&quot;&gt;Savage Knuckleblade&lt;/a&gt; in the battlefield then I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=See%20the%20Unwritten&quot;&gt;See the Unwritten&lt;/a&gt; and put 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragonlord%20Atarka&quot;&gt;Dragonlord Atarka&lt;/a&gt; into the battlefield. Do I draw one card or two cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that only one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragonlord%20Atarka&quot;&gt;Dragonlord Atarka&lt;/a&gt; would trigger the damage ability and I should sacrifice one. But what happens with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temur%20Ascendancy&quot;&gt;Temur Ascendancy&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:00:04.023" Title="Triggered ability of another card when two legendary creatures with the same name enter to the battlefield at the same time" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2015-12-30T07:43:12.737" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28102" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:20:15.950" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From a game design perspective, adding a house rule that eliminates monster deaths doesn't make much sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/em&gt; is centered around two resources: victory points and health. If you take away the death of monsters, you essentially remove health as a resource from the game. This also eliminates many of the game mechanics, such as monster powers through cards, but most notably two sides of the dice have now become useless (the attack and health symbols).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we've eliminated one way to win the game (kill the other monsters) and 1/3 of the main game mechanic (dice rolling), plus a number of monster power cards that deal specifically with attacking and health. At the point were these changes are made, it might be time to find or design a new board game that uses mechanics you enjoy while avoiding those you don't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;As a side note, I understand where the frustration is coming from. If a player gets eliminated because their monsters dies early, having to sit around and watch this game being played while not participating is not much fun. Because of the dice rolling mechanic, this game tends more toward chaos, so you risk playing solitaire for the next hour on your corner of the table if things don't roll your way.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T16:20:15.950" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28157" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:30:14.487" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSee%20the%20Unwritten%5d&quot;&gt;See the Unwritten&lt;/a&gt;, two creatures with a power greater than or equal to 4 have entered the battlefield. Each is sufficient to trigger the conditional statement of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTemur%20Ascendancy%5d&quot;&gt;Temur Ascendancy&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability, creating two effects that can be placed on the stack. You get the option, twice, to draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're wrong about Dragonlord Atarka: in order for it to trigger the Legendary rule, the second creature must enter the battlefield. Since it has entered the battlefield, the triggered effect occurs to be put on the stack. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/24326/can-i-get-an-enters-the-battlefield-effect-out-of-a-second-legendary-before-i-mu&quot;&gt;Reference:&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've simultaneously created 4 effects, two draw effects and two damage effects. As the controller, you decided the order in which they enter the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:00:04.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28102" CreationDate="2015-12-29T16:52:58.197" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few things you could do, but they would have a significant impact on the way the game works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 2 ways to win King of Tokyo. Get 20 points, or be the last monster alive. Any suggestion that makes it no longer a game of elimination would remove the second way of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is that if losing all your health doesn't eliminate you from the game, you need to decide what it does mean. There are a few options of how you could handle it though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you have no health, you cannot earn any points or attack. Thus the only thing you can do on your turn is heal. So you are still in the game, but you are slowed down a bunch, making it harder to win.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similar to above; if you have no health, you just skip your turn, and instead automatically heal some given amount of health. This way you aren't relying on continually re-rolling, hoping for health, to get back in. But you are still slowed down as you miss a normal turn.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When the game ends, consider your health points to be part of your score. Thus someone who has no health left will not have as many points. He could still win, but it would be harder.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When you have 0 health, damage takes away your points instead. In this way, your points act kind of like additional health. Having no health is still really bad, because then you can't win by getting enough points either.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T16:52:58.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-29T18:37:04.237" Score="3" ViewCount="17051" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family got a brand new copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/en-us/product/trouble-game-despicable-me-edition:0FE66F20-5056-9047-F53E-A59988130B96&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Trouble: Despicable Me Edition&lt;/a&gt;. We were wondering why the 1 on the regular die was red, when the only special roll is 6. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditorDisplayName="user13999" LastEditDate="2016-06-18T21:54:08.137" LastActivityDate="2018-02-05T23:32:36.797" Title="Trouble: Despicable Me Edition-Why is the 1 red?" Tags="|trouble-despicable-me|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28151" CreationDate="2015-12-29T18:59:08.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the way I read the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.shadowruntabletop.com/wp-content/uploads/CAT27700_Crossfire_Full%20Rules.pdf?86527a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; you will be able to use colorless as in the apply damage step it lists defeating an enemy and it does not state you have to apply all damage before this. Also it should be noted that some defeat effects also will provide bonus damage which would also lead me to believe that you can do more damage after defeating an obstacle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Defeating an Obstacle&#xA;  When you clear the last (far-right) level of an obstacle’s damage&#xA;  track, you defeat it. If the obstacle has a defeated ability,&#xA;  apply that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T18:59:08.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28165" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:23:36.630" Score="1" ViewCount="558" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing with my little brother, and during my turn he used &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378434&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Black Oak of Odunos&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, paying the black mana and tapping &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378394&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oreskos Sun Guide&lt;/a&gt; so that on his turn turn he could untap Oreskos and gain two life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does tapping the Oreskos Sun Guide mean that it's attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14745" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-29T19:37:15.783" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:37:15.783" Title="Does tapping a creature force it to attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28163" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:28:32.553" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapping is a cost paid to attack. Tapping by itself doesn't make a creature attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some creatures have an ability that works when you tap it (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;), but that doesn't cause the creature to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:28:32.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28163" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:30:03.417" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. It's the other way around: attacking with a creature requires tapping it. (Unless it has vigilance!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do something else that causes a creature to be tapped, it never causes it to attack. Only actually declaring it as an attacker (during the declare attackers step in the combat phase) will do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you do want to force a creature to attack, you have to do it directly, using something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shipwreck%20Singer&quot;&gt;Shipwreck Singer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:30:03.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28125" CreationDate="2015-12-29T19:40:01.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Declarer should always pause - for 15 seconds or so, not just 5 - upon seeing the dummy - to give defenders time to analyze the hand without giving away information.  The amount of time is even greater at higher levels of play as defenders have more ability to analyze.  It can be lower at more casual play where the defenders are not good enough (or too lazy) to use that time productively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes declarer forgets or is impatient, but in such instances they should be prepared to waive penalties (by not calling the director) for all but the most blatant cases of improper tempo by defenders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If declarer has opened 1N, I make a practice as defender of figuring out at trick 1 how many points partner can have and what their distribution can be.  I see 2 hands and declarer has promised some 3 point range with a balanced distribution, so I can infer quite a bit.  (I often ask dummy at this time how often they upgrade their point count and whether they normally open 1N with a 5 card major or with 2 doubletons.)  It takes 10 seconds to do all the calculations and check them once in my head, and another 5 seconds to take in the inferences from the play at trick 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really should do this always, but I'm generally lazier when the auction has been less obviously informative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T19:40:01.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28174" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:13:50.680" Score="1" ViewCount="445" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing in a tournament, and I fill out a convention card that says I will open with 13 or more points. I pick up a certain 14 &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13964/in-bridge-how-would-you-bid-the-worst-14-point-hand&quot;&gt;&quot;worst&quot;&lt;/a&gt; point hand (per Milton Work's 4-3-2-1 count) and decide to pass. The tournament director calls me on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found out yesterday that Kaplan and Rubens (K&amp;amp;R) (or some equally accepted authority) evaluates the hand as barely over 12 points. Is that an adequate defense for my apparent convention violation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My convention card also says that I need 13 points for a takeout double. I do so with the following &quot;11&quot; point hand: KJT4-5-QJ98-AT93. But K&amp;amp;R evaluate it as 13. Am I OK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is the best idea to write on the convention card: &quot;I reserve the right to base my decisions on alternate hand valuations such as K&amp;amp;R?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I make five or so of these decisions in a single tournament. Four out of five are on the money. In one case, I really didn't have my bid (per K&amp;amp;R), because I miscalculated. Would it be seen as such, or would people be thinking in terms of a violation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T06:24:35.670" Title="Can one use alternate evaluation methods, e.g. &quot;K&amp;R&quot; to defend actions that appear to violate your convention card?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|ethics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28169" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28155" CreationDate="2015-12-29T20:58:38.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.geekdo.com/geekfile_download.php?filetype=application%2Fpdf&amp;amp;filename=SoN_Rulebook_CH09_singlepages.pdf&amp;amp;filecode=pw4u6leh9p&amp;amp;validationcode=237bdbfd598c06866f36aa27b4ac1450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (may need a BoardGameGeek.com account to access):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player who has successfully delivered the &lt;em&gt;most&lt;/em&gt; and the &lt;em&gt;second most&lt;/em&gt; of each type of &lt;strong&gt;Legal&lt;/strong&gt; Good is declared the “King” and “Queen”, respectively, of that Good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would interpret this to mean each player can either be the King or Queen (or split the points in a tie), but not both. Hence, even a monopoly on a Good would only net the King's bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the single commodity holder got both the King and Queen bonuses, you could also make the following argument: when there isn't a monopoly, the player with the highest number of goods also always ties for the second highest number of goods. That player would always get the King's points and some portion of the Queen's. This doesn't seem like a logical interpretation of the rules, and most people with the second most number of Goods would be pretty annoyed if this were happening. If a player only gets a single bonus when there isn't a monopoly, the same rule should apply unless otherwise stated by the rulebook, which in this case it isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T20:58:38.907" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28168" CreationDate="2015-12-29T22:32:11.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because the evaluation mechanism you have adopted is generating more variation than typical, I strongly recommend that you note its use on your (and partner's) convention card. I would also suggest typing a small summary of the mechanism to keep with your convention card for opponents to refer to. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having done this, I see no reason for any concern; you are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; employing a technique that is intentionally destructive rather than constructive - which would be strongly discouraged when it could not be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attempting to improve your bidding judgement through an algorithmic means, which is certainly allowed - it is the basis of all hand evaluation methods.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there may be places on your convention card where it would be appropriate to use &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;K&amp;amp;RP&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; instead of either &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pts&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;HCP&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. You and partner should discuss this, and act on the agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T06:24:35.670" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T06:24:35.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28153" CreationDate="2015-12-29T23:00:26.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Further to what the other answers have pointed out, you can only trade items that are &lt;em&gt;in play&lt;/em&gt;, not items in your hand. Therefore you must first (legally) play an item to the table, either equipped or carried, before you can trade it with another player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As one can only play an item (&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; - other than &lt;em&gt;one-shot items&lt;/em&gt;, which &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; be played from your hand when in combat.) from your hand either &lt;em&gt;upon receiving it&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;during your turn when not in combat&lt;/em&gt; one might also play an item as carried in order to trade it during another player's turn, before your turn comes around again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T14:15:15.033" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T14:15:15.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28168" CreationDate="2015-12-29T23:16:29.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are many ways to evaluate a hand, and you and your partner are at liberty to choose whichever you wish. But you are not entitled to insist that your opponents use the same system; if you tell them that you will open any hand with 13 points and then pass with 14 you have misled them, which is what the system is designed to prevent.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also appear to be happy to mislead your partner; if one of the three possible evaluations allows this particular bid, you 'reserve the right' to make it? Are you playing with or against him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think the K&amp;amp;R system (or any other) fits your needs, by all means use it and put it on your card (as Pieter says, a typed-up paragraph of explanation will avoid arguments). But then you have to use that evaluation every time; it is not reasonable to expect the other players to guess exactly what you mean by 'points'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2015-12-29T23:16:29.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28105" CreationDate="2015-12-30T01:15:42.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;After a few games, I believe we came to a conclusion about those icons...&#xA;So I'll try and answer my own question (I hope it's OK ;-))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the cards with the icons are thematically connected to the Tower of Hateskull Location (Lord Hateskull, Lady Hateskull and the Stick of 6 parts to name a few). I wouldn't be surprised if the plan is to later release expansion packs for the game featuring new locations with associated cards. Those icons would then come in handy to remove all the cards from the Tower of Hateskull Theme set and replace them with the new ones, only leaving the basic ones and one scenario at a time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T01:15:42.843" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28168" CreationDate="2015-12-30T02:51:31.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This issue was discussed on the Bridge Laws Mailing List a few months ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://lists.rtflb.org/pipermail/blml/2015-September/017760.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Do players have to describe what they play?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cribbing from my own post there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Edgar Kaplan (the &quot;K&quot; in K &amp;amp; R) wrote to the effect that the&#xA;  convention card is an understanding with partner, not an undertaking&#xA;  to the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;HCP are an approximation of a hand's value. The laws do not mention&#xA;  them. Absent regulation to the contrary players must be allowed to&#xA;  evaluate their hands using their own judgement, promoting and demoting&#xA;  as they deem best. Some such regulations have been passed. While I&#xA;  consider them harmful to the spirit of the game they are lawful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth I use K&amp;amp;R evaluation at the table, as do some of my partners, but I don't do it on every deal. It is time consuming, so I use it only when I'm not confident how to evaluate the hand. I do not indicate this on my convention card, and I'm not sure how I would. It's a complex method that cannot be explained in a short paragraph.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=======&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Update Jan 1, 2016&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think I let myself get sidetracked, missing the heart of the issue. The K&amp;amp;R evaluation method is merely an example. Tom does not use it at the table, nor I suspect is he likely to. More to the point, there is nothing magical about K&amp;amp;R. It was intended to reproduce the judgement of one particular expert, Edgar Kaplan. For instance he devalued a hand if it was 4333, as do most experts, so the algorithm does the same. Likewise for stray queens and a host of other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real point is that Tom, or any of us, can evaluate a hand as we please. If I list a range of &quot;15-17&quot; for 1NT on my convention card it does not mean that my partner, my opponents, or anyone can count on me to hold exactly that many points. Rather it's a shorthand for saying that I will open hands that I evaluate to be in that range. I might well hold an excellent 14 or an ugly 18. For me neither happen often enough that I would write &quot;14+ to 18-&quot; -- that would only be misleading. My partner plays me for 15-17 and he and my opponents are equally well informed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those who've read Victor Mollo will remember the Walrus, who blindly follows the point count no matter where it leads. Nothing in the rules or regulations of the game requires us to do likewise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastEditorUserId="4901" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T02:30:41.380" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T02:30:41.380" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27337" CreationDate="2015-12-30T02:57:19.037" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From what the rules state no city can outbreak more than once per infection cycle. Otherwise you would have outbreaks going back and forth in a never ending loop. So per your example. Baghdad would outbreak because it has 3 cubes causing Tehran to get a 3rd. Then Tehran would outbreak with the draw. Now as I play it Baghdad would not outbreak because you are still in the same infection cycle. From the other answer he makes it sound as if each card is its own infection cycle. So don't know for sure, but I have never played it as each card is its own cycle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14747" LastEditorUserId="14747" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T03:04:58.593" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T03:04:58.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-30T03:29:17.690" Score="4" ViewCount="1677" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusory%20Gains&quot;&gt;Illusory Gains&lt;/a&gt; on my opponent's commander, does their commander become mine indefinitely? I have not played this card and I am unsure as to how playing it on a commander works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14748" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T05:08:58.150" LastActivityDate="2018-11-17T01:43:45.567" Title="Does Illusory Gains make someone else's Commander my own forever?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28176" CreationDate="2015-12-30T03:34:01.543" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You control that player's commander until another creature enters the battlefield under an opponent's control. At that point, Illusory Gains moves to that creature, and the owner regains control of their commander. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T03:34:01.543" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28176" CreationDate="2015-12-30T16:53:42.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, because change of control effects are continuous effects, not one-shot effects. The controller is only changed as long as the continuous effect changes it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Control of a permanent is continually evaluated based on who placed the object on the battlefield and any continuous effects overriding that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's look at a more intuitive continuous effect for a moment. If your opponent has a creature that has a default power/toughness of 3/4, and you create a continuous effect that gives it -2/-2, the creature will revert to being a 3/4 when the continuous effect ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if your opponent has a creature and you create a continuous effect that changes its controller, the creature will revert to your opponent's control when the continuous effect ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2015-12-30T18:40:31.670" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T18:40:31.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28155" CreationDate="2015-12-30T18:52:32.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I also got a canonical answer elsewhere from Tony Gullotti, Sales Director at the publishers (Arcane Wonders).  You only get the King bonus.  To quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You have the most chickens, so you get the King's Bonus. There is no second most, so no Queen's Bonus is awarded.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5655" LastEditorUserId="5655" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T19:17:44.987" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T19:17:44.987" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28182" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28183" CreationDate="2015-12-30T21:05:11.113" Score="4" ViewCount="1153" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to run a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Repentant%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Repentant Vampire&lt;/a&gt; in a Grixis (Red Blue Black) Commander deck? I don't see anything in the official rulings, and the card doesn't have a white mana symbol on it. I'm leaning towards yes, as I see mono black decks running it, but the double faced card ruling makes me wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:25:52.457" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:25:52.457" Title="Can I include a card in my EDH deck that mentions another color?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-color-identity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28182" CreationDate="2015-12-30T21:17:13.733" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like it should be identified with just black:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.4  ... The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card’s mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3. Some static abilities are characteristic-defining abilities. A characteristic-defining ability conveys information about an object’s characteristics that would normally be found elsewhere on that object (such as in its mana cost, type line, or power/toughness box) or overrides information found elsewhere on that object. Characteristic-defining abilities function in all zones. They also function outside the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.3a A static ability is a characteristic-defining ability if it meets the following criteria:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(1) It defines an object’s colors, subtypes, power, or toughness;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(2) it is printed on the card it affects, it was granted to the token it affects by the effect that created the token, or it was acquired by the object it affects as the result of a copy effect or text-changing effect;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(3) it does not directly affect the characteristics of any other objects;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(4) it is not an ability that an object grants to itself; and&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;(5) it does not set the values of such characteristics only if certain conditions are met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last clause (5) indicates that since the color change is conditional, it is not a characteristic-defining ability, and hence is not part of the color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T21:17:13.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28186" CreationDate="2015-12-30T22:34:10.263" Score="7" ViewCount="4565" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've got the 2013 edition of Pandemic, and the four of us are struggling! For instance, it says to prepare the Player Deck by using 4, 5, or 6 Epidemic cards for an Introductory, Standard, or Heroic game. We keep losing on 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get some help, I watched the Youtube video from Tabletop Episode 14 for  Pandemic - which uses the older version - and they seemed to suggest starting with just 2 Epidemic cards. I know I'm an adult, so I can do what I want really - but is the 4 Epidemic cards in 2013 too hard for newbies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="984" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T05:42:14.647" Title="Pandemic - how many epidemic cards?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28184" CreationDate="2015-12-30T22:49:37.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played that a couple days ago, and it wasn't too hard. What causes you to lose the game most often? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you running out of cubes of 1 color? Try to get someone there are soon as possible (even burning a card), maybe dropping a research station so others can come as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you running out of cards? Try to wait on disease cubes until 2-3 on a city and focus on getting the cure/cards to a curer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-30T22:49:37.057" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28184" CreationDate="2015-12-31T00:02:40.650" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I think 4 is a great number for an easy game.&lt;/strong&gt; If you find yourself running out of cards in the player deck, then you should really evaluate how you use those cards during the game. Discarding cards to take a flight shouldn't be done too frequently since that depletes that resource used to cure the disease. Also, work together to Share Knowledge, even though it can be challenging since you have to be in the same city as the card. Hopefully, you are playing with roles that negate some of the drawbacks I described above. If you are still having trouble, try playing with 3 and see what that does for you. After while, you'll start to get the hang of the game, and will look forward to the challenge that 4, 5, or 6 epidemic cards adds to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T00:02:40.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28187" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T00:30:08.063" Score="1" ViewCount="1342" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Graydle card's effect says when it's destroyed by battle or cards and is sent to the graveyard, it comes back as a equipment card and I take control of an opponent's face up monster. My opponent has a card that says when he destroys a monster and it goes to the graveyard, it comes back to their side of the field. So which effect works first: my card or his? Both say they happen when the Graydle card goes to the graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14762" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T03:03:08.827" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T03:03:08.827" Title="If effects happen at the same time, whose effect works?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2024" CreationDate="2015-12-31T02:41:16.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suggest the stronger player &lt;em&gt;secretly&lt;/em&gt; applies a handicapping rule to themselves. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with some of the other handicaps (especially the simple victory points handicap) is that it's not a particularly satisfying victory for the weaker player, and can feel patronising. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suggest rules like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never take sheep. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never take 'Starting player' action. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't ploy, sow, or take grain until stage 2. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never take food. (If taking it for the starting player in the family friendly version, or for day labour, never use that food). &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't take 'Family growth' until three rounds after it comes out. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who is handicapping themself shouldn't announce what their personal handicap is. This prevents the weaker player from banking on the whatever the strategy is. (For example, if they know that the stronger player isn't going to take sheep, they could let the sheep build up, knowing that it's not going to be taken). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantage of this handicapping mechanism is it remains a fun challenge for the stronger player. It also can provide insight into alternative strategies. For example when I played a game where I opted not to take sheep, I ended up not taking any animals at all, and I found that it wasn't as bad as I thought (I tied for first place). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T02:41:16.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28189" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T04:01:27.560" Score="0" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a team member lose Karma, either by failing the mission or only aborting when they are suffering a Karma penalty because of having greater than 10 Karma?  For instance, if my Karma 12 character loses the mission, does he actually get -1 Karma and end up with 11?  With no clarification, I house rule it to be yes, you can lose Karma for failing.  Makes sense thematically if Karma is something like reputation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T18:27:38.837" Title="Can a team member lose Karma?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28191" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2015-12-31T04:53:49.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Journey: Wrath of Demons is a miniatures-based skirmish game for 1-4 players, based on the tales of the mythological Chinese character the Monkey King.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T16:33:28.353" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T16:33:28.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28192" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2015-12-31T04:53:49.607" Score="0" Body="Journey: Wrath of Demons is a miniatures-based skirmish game for 1-4 players, based on the tales of the mythological Chinese character the Monkey King." OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T16:33:33.410" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T16:33:33.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28193" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28195" CreationDate="2015-12-31T06:19:00.810" Score="5" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my opponent has a full hand of 7 cards and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=wistful%20thinking&quot;&gt;wistful thinking&lt;/a&gt;, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do they discard the two cards they draw and then discard four more for a total of six cards discarded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14707" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T16:53:34.587" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T16:53:34.587" Title="How does drawing then discarding work with a full hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28739" CreationDate="2015-12-31T06:21:31.970" Score="1" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see any rules mentioning how to integrate the cards, so the obvious default seems to be to shuffle them all together, but half of the black market cards in the expansion are basics.  It seems like a heavy weighting towards diluting towards basic cards because of this.  Is there some different way we're supposed to combine these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T20:15:26.500" Title="Are all the cards in High Caliber Ops supposed to be combined with the base set?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|high-caliber-ops|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28193" CreationDate="2015-12-31T06:23:07.743" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, if you cast that spell on your opponent, he draws 2 for a total of 9 hand cards, then discards 4 cards, down to 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;402.2. Each player has a maximum hand size, which is normally seven cards. A player may have any number of cards in his or her hand, but as part of his or her cleanup step, the player must discard excess cards down to the maximum hand size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cleanup step is the last step in each player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T06:23:07.743" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28198" CreationDate="2015-12-31T13:24:10.207" Score="3" ViewCount="4311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the cards I'm familiar with such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAct%20of%20Treason%5d&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAct%20of%20Aggression%5d&quot;&gt;Act of Aggression&lt;/a&gt; all specify gaining control until end of turn. I'm wondering if something such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIllusory%20Gains%5d&quot;&gt;Illusory Gains&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBeguiler%20of%20Wills%5d&quot;&gt;Beguiler of Wills&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlatant%20Thievery%5d&quot;&gt;Blatant Thievery&lt;/a&gt; would take control of a creature permanently. I know that the answers on this question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/28176/does-illusory-gains-make-someone-elses-commander-my-own-forever&quot;&gt;Does Illusory Gains make someone else&amp;#39;s Commander my own forever?&lt;/a&gt; indicate that is not the case but I'm wondering if there is a rule that indicates that effect doesn't last when it's not specified and furthermore are there any cards that do specify the effect lasting permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T14:17:24.560" Title="Are there any cards that permanently take control of opponents creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28196" CreationDate="2015-12-31T13:54:39.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just do a search for &quot;gain control&quot; excluding turn or &quot;end of turn&quot;.  Many of those cards have conditional control, but they last past the end of the turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Search example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22gain+control%22+-o%3Aturn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22gain+control%22+-o%3Aturn&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T13:54:39.763" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28196" CreationDate="2015-12-31T14:02:58.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Control-changing effects aren't really special cases. What you're seeing here is just that some effects are permanent and some aren't. If you put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20War%20Paint&quot;&gt;Goblin War Paint&lt;/a&gt; on a creature, it gives that creature +2/+2 and haste - but if the aura goes away, so does that effect. It doesn't give +2/+2 and haste forever, just as long as it's around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, continuous effects generated by an object last only as long as that object generating them is around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3b The effect applies at all times that the permanent generating it is on the battlefield or the object generating it is in the appropriate zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and continuous effects generated by spells or abilities last as long as they say they're going to last, and if no duration is specified they last until the end of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2a A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability lasts as long as stated by the spell or ability creating it (such as “until end of turn”). If no duration is stated, it lasts until the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also perhaps relevant is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3a A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t “locked in”; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So an Aura that has an effect on the creature it's enchanting always applies just to that creature, even if it gets moved around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusory%20Gains&quot;&gt;Illusory Gains&lt;/a&gt; is an example of an effect generated by an object that's not around forever in the realm of gaining control, but a more obvious one is the classic &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt;. Its effect lasts only as long as the aura is on the battlefield enchanting a creature. If you Control Magic an opponent's creature, and they destroy the Control Magic, they get their creature back. If you move it to a second with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aura%20Finesse&quot;&gt;Aura Finesse&lt;/a&gt;, you'll lose control of the first creature and gain control of the second creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Illusory Gains is the same idea. It gets moved around, and it only says you control the creature it's enchanting, not any other ones, so when it moves away from a creature, there's no longer an effect giving you control of that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another way a continuous effect might not last forever is if it's created by a spell or ability which specifies a duration explicitly (like &amp;quot;until end of turn&amp;quot;). This is what's going on with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;. That case is pretty obvious from the text on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last case is if the spell or ability which creates it &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; specify a duration. In that case, it lasts until the end of the game. So &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beguiler%20of%20Wills&quot;&gt;Beguiler of Wills&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blatant%20Thievery&quot;&gt;Blatant Thievery&lt;/a&gt; give you control of things indefinitely: they just say gain control, and don't say &amp;quot;...until end of turn&amp;quot; or anything like it to specify a duration.Since the rules work this way, there aren't cards that explicitly say &amp;quot;gain control forever&amp;quot;; they don't need to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2015-12-31T14:17:24.560" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T14:17:24.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28189" CreationDate="2015-12-31T18:27:38.837" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game there is no karma loss for losing only a karma reduction for aborting the mission or a reduction if you have to much karma of for the mission you are going on. Due to the random nature of the game it can be very harsh if you can actually lose karma for failing a mission as depending on the luck it can be very easy for a team to either easily crush a game or easily be crushed by the game depending on the obstacles, crossfire cards and black market cards that are drawn during the game. In this game karma is not like reputation but it is experience points which are gained for succeeding in missions and that is something that is not normally lost easily in most games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to remember is that if you do lose karma for failing a mission that would put a lot more pressure on any new players who may be &#xA;playing with experienced players as a failure would risk the more experienced player losing valuable upgrades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Below I have listed the karma &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.shadowruntabletop.com/wp-content/uploads/CAT27700_Crossfire_Full%20Rules.pdf?86527a&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for the basic mission&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Karma Awards: If the team wins, each runner gets 3 Karma.&#xA;  If the team aborts, and has a successful abort run round, each&#xA;  runner gets 1 Karma. The team can also choose the following&#xA;  bonus challenge options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;› Bring It On!: Flip up one additional obstacle at the start&#xA;  of each Scene: +1 Karma for each runner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;› Danger Zone: Start the game with one card in the&#xA;  Crossfire discard: +2 Karma for each runner (In the same&#xA;  game, the team can choose this option up to once for&#xA;  each runner.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Karma Scaling: Each runner gains the following Karma award&#xA;  or penalty based on how much Karma they have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CROSSFIRE KARMA SCALING KARMA IN UPGRADES AWARD OR PENALTY&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  0-10 FULL KARMA AWARD&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  11-30 -1 KARMA PENALTY&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  31-50 -2 KARMA PENALTY&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  51-75 -3 KARMA PENALTY&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  EACH ADDITIONAL +25 ADDITIONAL -1 KARMA PENALTY  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2015-12-31T18:27:38.837" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28258" CreationDate="2015-12-31T18:51:38.343" Score="7" ViewCount="4000" Body="&lt;p&gt;Co-op variant (hardcore) or games where the betrayer is obviously absent seems easy after playing the game a couple of times. Even with the betrayer, we find we can keep the morale 7+ consistently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We usually start off getting weapons from the police station then arming the the few colony guys (e.g janitor/bev), while sending the rest to search at locations depending on objective/crisis, leaving them there and using the colony guys to attract the zombies back and kill them; playing outsiders sparingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is we are never really moving after the initial first/second rounds, and we rarely need too much food (unless playing the food objective). And the guys in the colony get armed with like double sniper switchblades as we keep searching the police station without penalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are we doing anything wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14722" LastEditorUserId="14722" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T02:04:22.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T20:26:30.213" Title="Dead of Winter - Too easy with no betrayer/co-op?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2015-12-31T23:03:32.570" Score="11" ViewCount="10380" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, when a player plays a Knight card (&quot;Solider&quot; card in older editions), do players with 8 cards or more in their hand have to forfeit half their hand to the bank?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is causing a huge row in our family as I think that this forfeit rule only applies to rolling a seven and not to playing a Knight card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14768" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T06:35:44.857" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T15:00:49.227" Title="Do players have to discard when a Knight card is played?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28201" CreationDate="2015-12-31T23:11:46.743" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't lose half your hand if a knight card is played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for 'rolling a 7 and activating the Robber' state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;every player who was more than 7 Resource Cards must select half (rounded down) of his Resource Cards and return them to the bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The you must move the robber Proceed as follows.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then steps 1 and 2 are stated for stealing a resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for a solider cards state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;you must immediately move the robber.  See activating the robber and and follow steps 1 and 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not state everyone loses cards if they have 8 or more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify the rules for losing cards if you have more than 8 are only triggered for rolling a 7 and in no other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T15:00:49.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28204" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28740" CreationDate="2016-01-01T03:51:26.667" Score="2" ViewCount="660" Body="&lt;p&gt;My daughter received Pokémon XY cards for Christmas, and I have been thinking about buying a deck to play with her.  She has the XY trainer set, and I was looking at the other XY cards to buy.  Then, though, I considered the old &lt;em&gt;Team Rocket&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Team Rocket Returns&lt;/em&gt; sets.  These would be fun, as I could clearly be the antagonist, thematically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that these cards would not be tournament legal.  That will not be an issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are they relatively balanced, though?  Do later game changes like EX cards and Break cards fundamentally shift the balance toward XY series, or are they just changes in how one constructs a deck?  Can I play a Team Rocket (Returns?) deck against an XY deck and not consistently lose because of changes to cards over the years?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14769" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T21:13:02.330" Title="Are the Pokémon TCG &quot;Team Rocket&quot; sets balanced against XY cards?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28206" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28543" CreationDate="2016-01-01T05:49:10.767" Score="2" ViewCount="574" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you score a city that has both a mayor and a cathedral? We ended up making each tile worth 3 points for the cathedral plus 1 point for each shield/banner in the city for a total of 6 points per tile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was that correct?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I'm playing with the Inns and Cathedrals and the Mayors and Abbeys expansion packs.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14771" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:36:02.253" Title="Carcassone scoring for a city with a mayor and a cathedral" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-01T07:22:04.727" Score="2" ViewCount="516" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text for Laborer states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Harvest up to 2 fields OR make up to 3 wine. You may lose 1 VP to do both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pay my VP, can I make wine using grapes I have just harvested?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="50" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T05:42:32.497" Title="Can I make wine from the fields I harvest with the Laborer?" Tags="|viticulture|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28206" CreationDate="2016-01-01T08:09:15.643" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mayor counts for the number of shields in comparison to other meeple in the same city. So if a city has 3 shields, you have a mayor and another player has two meeple, you get the points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cathedral increases the mulitplier for the tiles from 2 to 3. A 12 tile city without a cathedral gives 24 points, with a cathedral it gives 36 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T08:09:15.643" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28204" CreationDate="2016-01-01T08:53:28.193" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The power in the older sets of the Pokémon TCG lay in the trainers. Things like gust of wind, energy removal and trainer bill were tremendous to play with. When you compare the older Pokémon with their modern counterparts then the power creep becomes clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that the first deck that dominated the early Pokémon meta was called Haymaker and it's marquee card was Hitmonchan. A card that for its time was the most efficient attacker with 20 damage for a single energy. The heart gold /soul silver set on the other hand introduced Donphan that was format defining for doing 60 damage for a single energy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="14769" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T16:15:59.923" LastActivityDate="2016-01-01T16:15:59.923" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28208" CreationDate="2016-01-01T13:00:58.607" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes I believe you can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for visitor cards state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many visitors have two separate clauses delineated by the all-caps&#xA;  word &quot;OR&quot;.  These are two completely independent clauses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;, so in a normal situation you can do just one. However the Labourer is giving you the option to do both so there is no reason why you couldn't do both and thematically losing a point for the labourer to work extra hard makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you harvest you add grapes to crush pad.  When making wine you move from crush pad.  There is no rule that says they have to be there a set time limit before they can be made into wine.  There is nothing on the labourer card that says if you choose to do both they happen simultaneously.  You would choose the order they happen in to your advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T05:42:32.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T05:42:32.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28212" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-01T17:32:24.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://morning-family.com/games/viticulture-essential-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;publisher's description&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/128621/viticulture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Viticulture&lt;/a&gt;, the players find themselves in the roles of people in rustic, pre-modern Tuscany who have inherited meager vineyards. They have a few plots of land, an old crushpad, a tiny cellar, and three workers. They each have a dream of being the first to call their winery a true success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The players are in the position of determining how they want to allocate their workers throughout the year. Every season is different on a vineyard, so the workers have different tasks they can take care of in the summer and winter. There's competition over those tasks, and often the first worker to get to the job has an advantage over subsequent workers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fortunately for the players, people love to visit wineries, and it just so happens that many of those visitors are willing to help out around the vineyard when they visit as long as you assign a worker to take care of them. Their visits (in the form of cards) are brief but can be very helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Using those workers and visitors, players can expand their vineyards by building structures, planting vines (vine cards), and filling wine orders (wine order cards). Players work towards the goal of running the most successful winery in Tuscany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The expansion, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/147101/tuscany-expand-world-viticulture&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tuscany&lt;/a&gt;, drastically extends the game by introducing a number of smaller expansions legacy-style (adding new features each time you play instead of all at once). These expansions add asymmetric starting resources, new and advanced visitor cards, an extended game board for actions in all four seasons, special types of worker meeples, and more. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:19:36.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:19:36.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28213" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-01T17:32:24.800" Score="0" Body="A vineyard/winery-themed worker placement game." OwnerUserId="13995" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T19:19:36.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T19:19:36.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28219" CreationDate="2016-01-01T19:47:56.847" Score="2" ViewCount="1184" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I play Abhoth (from &lt;em&gt;Under the Pyramids&lt;/em&gt; expansion) as the Ancient One, his Setup section says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Set aside 8 Cultist Monsters and all Abhoth Special Encounters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the Reckoning effect for this Ancient One states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Lead Investigator spawns 1 Cultist Monster on a Wilderness space that does not contain a Cultist Monster. Then, if there are 6 or more Cultist Monsters on the game board, advance Doom by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cultist fights are special for this Ancient One, you do not have normal Combat Encounter, but as described on the Ancient One sheet:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever an investigator encounters a Cultist Monster, he draws and resolves a Spawn of Abhoth Special Encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Spawn of Abhoth Special Encounter cards do not specify what happens with the cultist card/token, you can just win/lose the fight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I played, I assumed that I spawn the Cultist from the Ancient One sheet, from these 8 Cultists I set aside. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What should I do when I defeat the cultist?&lt;/strong&gt; Should I put it back on the Ancient One sheet, or should I put him to the normal monster pool, as with any other non-epic monster? (or some combination of both.. should I put the cultist back on AO, but only to the original count of 8, and then put the cultist to the normal monster pool..)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I played, I did not think about it much, and just put them back on the Ancient One sheet. This could result in having more than 8 Cultists on the sheet, since you can draw Cultist Monster from the monster cup when you have Monster surge or open a gate (although the chance is lowered because 8 of them is already set aside). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I started having doubts when the Ancient One awakened. Then you have to spawn all cultists from this sheet except 3, and then whenever Doom would advance, you spawn another cultist from the sheet. &lt;strong&gt;When there is no cultist left on the sheet, investigators lose the game&lt;/strong&gt;. This condition is the one that made me doubt my decision to put them back on the sheet, since generally, in Eldritch horror, the rules are against the players, to make the game harder, so I started to think that I might be doing it wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did not find any mention about this in the rules for the expansion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14615" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:03:18.357" Title="Abhoth - where should I put defeated cultists" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28215" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28216" CreationDate="2016-01-01T20:32:49.370" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Myr%20Welder&quot;&gt;Myr Welder&lt;/a&gt; it says two things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imprint -- {T} : Exile target artifact card from a graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Myr Welder has all activated abilities of all cards exiled with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is about how it can have abilities if it's been exiled? IIRC being exiled means it it cast out of the play past the graveyard, never to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it possibly mean it has the abilities of the cards it's exiled (tapping each time), while it remains in play, i.e. instead of &amp;quot;exiled &lt;em&gt;with&lt;/em&gt; it&amp;quot; it should read &amp;quot;exiled &lt;em&gt;by&lt;/em&gt; it&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14775" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-01T20:53:40.257" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:33:24.313" Title="MTG Myr Welder Exile question" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28215" CreationDate="2016-01-01T20:49:34.327" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those two abilities are called Linked Abilities, which means the second one is referring to cards exiled by the first one. Specifically, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Linked_abilities&quot;&gt;rule 607.2a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an object has an activated or triggered ability printed on it that instructs a player to exile one or more cards and an ability printed on it that refers either to “the exiled cards” or to cards “exiled with [this object],” these abilities are linked. &lt;strong&gt;The second ability refers only to cards in the exile zone that were put there as a result of an instruction to exile them in the first ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the second ability does in fact mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Myr Welder has all activated abilities of all cards that it has exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing wrong with the wording, though. The fourth definition of the word &quot;with&quot; &lt;a href=&quot;http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/with&quot;&gt;on dictionary.com&lt;/a&gt; is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;by the use of; using&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, they are saying that it has all of the activated abilities of cards &quot;exiled [using] Myr Welder&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T00:33:24.313" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:33:24.313" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28218" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-01T22:18:28.807" Score="3" ViewCount="933" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 questions, one generally-scoped and one specific:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Can I activate the effect of Disenchanter while it is still in my hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In general, can one activate monsters' &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Ignition_Effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ignition effects&lt;/a&gt; from the hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Disenchanter:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once per turn: You can target 1 face-up Spell Card on the field; remove 1 Spell Counter from anywhere on the field, and if you do, return that target to the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11671" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-10-08T00:07:02.093" Title="Activate ignition effect from hand?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28214" CreationDate="2016-01-02T00:03:18.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, I went through all the rules in all the rulesheets I have from the expansions, and the answer is in the original Reference Guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In entry &lt;strong&gt;Set Aside&lt;/strong&gt;, third bullet, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a component that was set aside during setup is discarded, it is not returned to the deck or pool like other components of that type. Instead, it is set aside again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the correct answer is to put the Cultist back on the Ancient One sheet (well to play perfectly by the rules, I should track the ones that were spawned by the reckoning effect only).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14615" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T00:03:18.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28218" CreationDate="2016-01-02T02:27:04.440" Score="-2" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not unless it explicitly says so. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See this &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Yugioh101/comments/3z2ei8/question_can_one_activate_monsters_ignition/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11671" LastEditorUserId="15297" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T23:21:48.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T23:21:48.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28222" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-02T03:39:40.023" Score="3" ViewCount="389" Body="&lt;p&gt;LET THE DOG OUT&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Destroy any number of minions at your minion's base whose total power is less than or equal to your minion's power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this referring to the total power of &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; minions that are to be destroyed or is it referring to the total power of &lt;strong&gt;each&lt;/strong&gt; individual minion to be destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my minion is worth 6, does that mean I can destroy all minions who have power of 6 or less? Or am I only able to destroy a grand total of 6, such as a 4-minion plus a 2-minion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14780" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2018-09-18T19:28:29.477" LastActivityDate="2018-09-18T19:28:29.477" Title="Smash Up Question about Werewolves" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28224" CreationDate="2016-01-02T03:56:18.740" Score="5" ViewCount="3810" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Terra Mystica, under most structures, you find the income that building generates. But, the Sanctuary &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; has a weird hexagon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Qyl2.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3Qyl2.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gold outline looks just like those used on the town tokens. I couldn't find anything about it in the rules, looking under anything I could find related to the Sanctuary or towns (based on the shape). I don't see the image anywhere either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks important. What am I missing? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T04:18:32.857" Title="What's the hexagon symbol under the Sanctuary?" Tags="|terra-mystica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28223" CreationDate="2016-01-02T04:18:32.857" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems to be a common enough question that there's a link directly to a thread about it on the game's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/120677/terra-mystica&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;boardgamegeek page&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Short answer, quoted from one of those threads:&#xA;&quot;It means you only need a minimum of 3 connected buildings instead of 4 when forming a town if the sanctuary is part of these structures.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2060" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T04:18:32.857" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28226" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29351" CreationDate="2016-01-02T06:03:04.913" Score="2" ViewCount="561" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I reveal a Shadow card during the Combat phase, do I also resolve any non-shadow Revealed effects on that card?  For example, if an enemy reveals The Necromancer's Reach as a Shadow card, do I also deal 1 damage to each exhausted character?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7519" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T07:23:12.187" Title="Do I resolve non-Shadow &quot;Revealed&quot; effects when revealing a Shadow card?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-02T06:38:16.453" Score="1" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Question pertains to Axis &amp;amp; Allies 1942, 2nd edition. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a defender assigns damage to anti-aircraft artillery units during the bombardment phase of an amphibious assault, do the AAA's still get a chance to defend prior to beginning the general combat phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, UK forces conduct an amphibious assault (with 2 cruiser, 1 transport carrying 2 infantry, and 1 fighter flies in for land combat from another territory) on Italy (defending with 2 AAA's and 2 infantry). There are no defensive sea forces in the sea zone, so skip sea combat and begin bombardment phase - cruisers roll twice and get 2 hits. Defender wants to assign one hit to one infantry and other hit to AAA. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know the one infantry is removed from the remaining land combat, but is the AAA also removed or does it first get to roll against the fighter before it is removed? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14783" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T18:17:59.740" Title="If damage is assigned to AAA during bombardment, can it defend before general combat begins in the territory or is it removed?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28222" CreationDate="2016-01-02T14:28:13.740" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The total power of a set of minions is the sum of their powers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your minion has a power of 6, you could destroy a minion of power 4 and a minion of power 2, but you could not destroy a minion of power 4 and a minion of power 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To get the other meaning, it would be phrased the same except for the removal of the word &quot;total&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T14:28:13.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28233" CreationDate="2016-01-02T16:15:05.643" Score="9" ViewCount="4665" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic, at the end of your turn can you discard a card even when you have fewer than 7 cards, so that the Archivist can pick up that card on his next turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T19:15:55.357" Title="In Pandemic, at the end of your turn can you discard even when you have fewer than 7 cards, so the Archivist can pick up that card on his next turn?" Tags="|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28230" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28232" CreationDate="2016-01-02T16:27:49.097" Score="4" ViewCount="390" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are playing this hand at 3NT having arrived there after you bid 1NT and North 3NT, East and West having passed throughout. Only you are vulnerable. (The hand is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baronbarclay.com/product/bridgecolumn10-25-13/October2013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;linked&lt;/a&gt; for reference; but you'd only actually get to see your hand and dummy as below, plus individual cards as they are played).  Dummy is North, the lead (by West) is the 5 of hearts 6, T, won by J in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AK9&#xA;63&#xA;AT94&#xA;J985&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;QT8&#xA;KJ7&#xA;QJ82&#xA;AK3&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two chances for your ninth trick; a diamond finesse is 50-50. You also have an extra chance (8% by my calculation) if East has Qx of clubs, since you can drop the Q, then finesse against Tx remaining in West. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since clubs is a &quot;key&quot; suit, I begin by inventorying the opponents' combined holding: QT7642. I start by playing the A, and expect the two lowest cards, 4 and 2 to drop (which in fact is the case). Say one opponent drops the 6 instead; I would then expect his partner to have the 4. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I lead the K, and sure enough, East drops the Q. But here's the tricky part; West drops the 7, meaning that the 6 and T are outstanding. Put another way, they can't both be playing their lowest card and at least one of them must be falsecarding!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should I now suspect &quot;chicanery,&quot; and go back to my 50-50 diamond finesse because my a priori 8% chance of a successful drop is now too low? (The actual South player tried a finesse which lost to East's ten.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But perhaps South could now capitalize on the 3-3 break (36% a priori) by putting up his Jack, since the queen has been sacrificed. I can understand why East falsecarded, but why would West do so? Because if he hadn't I would have taken the club finesse, thinking that West had four cards and the queen was an honest drop from East. But faced with evidence of chicanery, I would suspect that E-W were trying to hide the fact that the diamond finesse would work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T02:55:30.573" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:49:11.513" Title="Can you suspect false carding from the following situation?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28230" CreationDate="2016-01-02T17:44:42.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good defenders do not simply play the lowest card from their hands when following suit; they signal for partner. Intermediate players sometimes signal when they should not. Here, West was presumably signaling count -- initially playing their lowest card (showing that it was played from an odd number), then playing their highest (showing that it was played from an even number). This is consistent with the situation that West started with 762. Count signals are frequently played to declarer's leads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If E played the Q from QT4, this was a very good play (assuming that they did not hold the DK as well) because it gives declarer a chance to go wrong. If West signaled count faithfully, they would have ruined partner's play. I would cash the CJ and try diamonds if clubs didn't start 3-3, congratulating West for deceptive signaling if they started with T762 and no DK.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T17:44:42.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28230" CreationDate="2016-01-02T19:35:00.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dear Frank has omitted one additional possibility - there is a throw-in working against West when (a) it is actually possible to make the contract and (b) West holds T762 of Clubs. Once the Club Q falls on trick three this play should be visible to Declarer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cash three Spade tricks ending in Dummy to leave this for Declarer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: -&#xA;H: 3&#xA;D: AT94&#xA;C: 5  &#xA;&#xA;S: -&#xA;H: K7&#xA;D: QJ82&#xA;C: -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the possible West holding to be these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: -     or  J     or  J    or  J&#xA;H: AQ8       AQ8       AQ8      AQ&#xA;D: Kx        KX        K        Kx&#xA;C: 6         -         6        6&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases West has at most three cashing tricks, and no exit - just lead the last Club to West, pitching a diamond from hand, and wait for your last 2 tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #2 - Play details&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spades should be cashed in the order K; then Q; then A to maintain control if Spades break worse then 4-2. Then the Diamond Q should be pitched from hand on the 4th round of Clubs to unblock; there is no need for more than 2 Diamond tricks and we desire to win both in Dummy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update #3 - Odds of both lines of play&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After trick 1 there is only a 11*10 / 20*19 = 11/38 chance that Hearts are split 4-4 (ie that both unplaced Hearts are with East, with 9 and 11 cards unknown in West and East respectively). Combined with the Diamond finesse that gives roughly a 64.5% chance to make the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Testing the Club Q first gives a 50% + 1/3 * 48% = 66% chance to make on a straight doubleton Q, plus the additional chance, as here, of an expert defender attempting a subterfuge that fails on an endplay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that an expert West holding the Diamond K, and thus knowing that his partner has at most three HCP, will &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;almost always&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; false card in Clubs so that (a) a false card by his partner in the suit is believable; and (b) if East cannot false card in Clubs then Declarer won't know whom to believe because the signals are inconsistent. It is a mandatory play at that level, and cannot hurt because his partner (a) already knows what to return if he gets in and (b) has nothing to be fooled about. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guideline here is that when the defensive values are split decidedly unevenly between the two hands, the weaker hand false cards only out of necessity while the stronger hand will false card frequently. This can sometimes assist Declarer in placing cards, but works to Defenders' advantage more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T15:49:11.513" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T15:49:11.513" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28229" CreationDate="2016-01-02T20:11:59.460" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, discarding is not one of your choices of actions, and the discarding to hand limit is very specifically only for when you have too many cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to discard a specific card like this, your best available option is to use it for an action: fly to that city, fly from that city to anywhere, or build a research station.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T20:11:59.460" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28759" CreationDate="2016-01-02T21:25:10.743" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the rules of Catacombs 3rd Ed.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;chain shot modifier&lt;/em&gt; indicates tha the same target cannot be damaged consecutively in a shot sequence [...]. If the same target is hit twice consecutively, damage that would have been inflicted by the second hit is ignored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a miss in a shot sequence count as a &quot;change of target&quot; (can't find a better wording)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say Xoric the Barbarian plays the &lt;em&gt;Berserker Battle Axe&lt;/em&gt; Item card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(Melee) &gt; (Melee) &gt; (Melee) &gt; (Melee)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Xoric uses the first (Melee) to hit a Minotaur (flipping it over) then aim a Zombie with his second one but misses it. Can he use his third (Melee) to kill the Minotaur he hit in the first shot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T21:40:30.263" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T11:53:55.013" Title="Catacombs: Chain Shot Modifier and misses" Tags="|catacombs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33833" CreationDate="2016-01-02T21:40:01.560" Score="3" ViewCount="40" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules (3rd edition) say that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only the hero who owns the item may use it and items cannot be given away or traded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may, but are not obligated to, pool their gold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Resurrect Hero Service description also seems to imply that a dead player keeps his/her possessions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The hero returns to life with all of his or her gold coins and unused Item and/or Spell cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still possible in this case to add the dead hero's gold in the pool (for instance to pay for his/her resurrection)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-02T22:28:12.000" LastActivityDate="2017-01-12T12:02:46.930" Title="In Catacombs, how do the remaining party members deal with a dead Hero's possession?" Tags="|catacombs|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28236" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-02T21:54:00.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Useful links :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elzra.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Publisher's website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.elzra.com/catacombs.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The game's official web page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/57390/catacombs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The game's entry&lt;/a&gt; on Board Game Geek&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:31:48.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:31:48.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28237" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-02T21:54:00.370" Score="0" Body="Catacombs is a one-against-many adventure board game." OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:31:48.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:31:48.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28238" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-02T23:06:09.493" Score="3" ViewCount="15377" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I have duplicate enchantment auras on the same creature?&#xA;Example: I enchanted my Kor Spiritdancer with Ethereal Armor, can I cast another Ethereal Armor on her?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes or no, and what's the ruling reference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14788" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T01:48:30.693" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T05:46:39.083" Title="Can something have multiples of the same aura?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28238" CreationDate="2016-01-02T23:26:38.837" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. The only limit on enchantments is the same limit that all permanents have: the Legendary rule. You can only have 1 permanent in play of a given name if they are legendary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, even if you enchant a creature with the same enchantment, subsequent enchantments might not do anything. For example, you can only get lifelink once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take your Ethereal Armor example, the power/toughness bonus would stack, and presuming those are your only enchantments on the board, each would provide +2/+2 for a total of +4/+4.  However, granting the First Strike ability on the 2nd enchantment would do nothing, since that ability is already granted by the first enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10399" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T08:56:13.230" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:56:13.230" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28238" CreationDate="2016-01-02T23:27:34.357" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, though providing a rules reference isn't as easy as you think. There isn't a rule that explicitly says you can't enchant a single permanent with multiple copies of the same enchantment. Rather, since it isn't prohibited by the Rules, or specifically made not allowed by a card, you are allowed to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-01-02T23:27:34.357" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28246" CreationDate="2016-01-03T00:44:59.360" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a card is tapped (from the effect &quot;on vacation&quot;¹), its activation number has to be rolled to untap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does the card’s color matter here?&lt;/strong&gt; Does my &lt;strong&gt;green/purple&lt;/strong&gt; card get untapped if my opponent rolls its number? Does my &lt;strong&gt;red&lt;/strong&gt; card get untapped if I roll its number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ I don’t know the English translation. In German it’s called &quot;im Urlaub&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:13:26.363" Title="Does the card color matter for untapping it?" Tags="|machi-koro|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28242" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-03T01:14:45.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Broom Service&lt;/em&gt; is a card game about brewing potions and delivering them to witches and druids. It was first published by Alea and Ravensburger Spieleverlag GmbH in 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T07:15:37.767" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:15:37.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28243" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-03T01:14:45.800" Score="0" Body="A card game about brewing potions and delivering them to witches and druids" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T08:55:53.447" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:55:53.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28244" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-03T01:19:59.487" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Let's Kill Krampus&lt;/em&gt; is a combination card game and roleplaying game involving naughty children plotting to commit mythicide. It was produced in 2013 by Three Fates Games via a successful &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lkk/lets-kill-krampus-a-dark-comedy-card-game-rpg/description&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter campaign&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T08:56:21.967" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T08:56:21.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28245" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-03T01:19:59.487" Score="0" Body="A combination card game and roleplaying game involving naughty children plotting to commit mythicide" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-03T14:03:07.513" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T14:03:07.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28241" CreationDate="2016-01-03T07:13:26.363" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have the English rules of Machi Koro Sharp either but the French version makes it clear (in a long paragraph just under the game components) that you need to roll the numbers needed to activate the building to untap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Un établissement peut rouvrir lorsqu'il est à nouveau activé par le résultat des dés. [...] Donc les établissements bleus peuvent rouvrir pendant le tour de n'importe quel joueur, les établissements rouges uniquement pendant le tour des autres joueurs, tandis que les érablissements violets et verts peuvent rouvrir uniquement pendant votre tour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;which would translate by   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A building can re-open when it is activated by the result of a dice roll. [...] So blue buildings can re-open during any turn, red buildings can only re-open during the turn of an opponent and green or purple buildings can only re-open during the active player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T07:13:26.363" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28248" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:08:45.267" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;504&lt;/em&gt; is a game that creates 504 different games out of one box. The game consists of nine modules. In each single game, you take three different modules from the nine available and assemble them in any order you like to create a new game. (504 = 9 * 8 * 7 = the number of distinct permutations of three items from a set of nine. The order of the three game modules is significant, and modules cannot be repeated.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first English edition was published in 2015 by Stronghold Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T20:27:09.343" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:27:09.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28249" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-03T15:08:45.267" Score="0" Body="A game that creates 504 different games out of one box." OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T20:26:55.850" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:26:55.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18407" CreationDate="2016-01-03T19:12:20.487" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fortified Dwarves = takes 3 mines, one on the mountain, get  9 coins from three regions, in &lt;em&gt;decline&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14791" LastActivityDate="2016-01-03T19:12:20.487" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28251" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-03T22:26:39.087" Score="3" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like, lets say for example,&#xA;Orange firefighter had to end their turn with a victim POI marker right in front of the door leading to the outside. The player going next has their yellow firefighter right outside that door. &#xA;O | y  &amp;lt;- makeshift diagram where 0 is orange and y is the yellow one that is outside the building. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the yellow firefighter move into the building on the square with the orange firefighter, take the victim POI marker and move back outside with the POI marker? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14792" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T03:30:41.440" Title="For Flashpoint... can you &quot;share&quot; the victim POI marker?" Tags="|flash-point|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28252" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28256" CreationDate="2016-01-04T01:05:56.623" Score="10" ViewCount="2683" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic, when there are 2 or 3 cubes of the same color on a cured city, does the Containment Specialist remove only 1 cube when he lands or all of the cubes (like when treating) since it is cured?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14787" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T10:25:06.790" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:13:51.210" Title="In Pandemic, can the Containment Specialist remove more than 1 cube (without the action of treating) in a cured city?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28251" CreationDate="2016-01-04T03:30:41.440" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can consider the cost in dealing with victims having to do with &lt;strong&gt;moving&lt;/strong&gt; them, not so much carrying and holding onto them.  So if one firefighter moves a victim to square, there is no cost for picking up or dropping the victim, simply a cost to transfer the victim from one location to another.  With this in mind, you can walk up to a square where a firefighter has just moved a victim and continue to move that victim into a different square, assuming you still have enough action points to bear the load.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T03:30:41.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28252" CreationDate="2016-01-04T06:17:03.547" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key verb here is &lt;strong&gt;treat&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/pandemic.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game base rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Treat&lt;/strong&gt; Disease:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove 1 disease cube from the city you are in, placing it in the cube&#xA;  supply next to the board. If this disease color has been cured (see&#xA;  Discover a Cure below), remove all cubes of that color from the city you&#xA;  are in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Medic can remove all cubes from a cured disease simply by entering it but it's his role privilege, other roles still have to spend a second action to cure all the cubes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;MEDIC&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Medic removes all cubes, not 1, of the same color&#xA;  when doing the &lt;strong&gt;Treat&lt;/strong&gt; Disease action.&#xA;  If a disease has been cured, he automatically removes&#xA;  all cubes of that color from a city, simply by entering it&#xA;  or being there. This does not take an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the containment specialist drives to Atlanta where there are 3 blue cubes (1 action). By doing so, he removes a cube for free, but only one since it's not a &lt;strong&gt;Treat&lt;/strong&gt; action. Then he &lt;strong&gt;treats&lt;/strong&gt; the blue disease thus removing the remaining two cubes (1 action)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CONTAINMENT SPECIALIST&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you enter a city with 2 or more cubes of the same color, &lt;strong&gt;remove&lt;/strong&gt; 1 cube&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-04T18:04:20.637" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T18:04:20.637" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28252" CreationDate="2016-01-04T08:37:46.387" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CONTAINMENT SPECIALIST&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you &lt;em&gt;enter&lt;/em&gt; a city with 2 or more disease cubes of the same color, remove 1 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upon entering the city with two or more cubes of the same color, the Containment Specialist removes 1 of those cubes - that's it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ability has nothing to do with treating the disease.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular it doesn't care whether the disease is cured or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T08:13:51.210" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:13:51.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28200" CreationDate="2016-01-04T09:07:37.400" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Dead of Winter without a betrayer (especially without hardcore objectives) is easy, even extremely easy with 4 or 5 players. Even so, hardcore versions of objectives can be difficult if you play them with 3 players (and some are impossible with 2 players, literally impossible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it might not be the case for your group, I'd argue that Dead of Winter can be very easy if there is no betrayer but there is an alpha player. Without a betrayer the alpha player can easily convince the group what to do and essentially win the game solo. This is a problem that most co-ops have, and this is exactly why I always play with the betrayer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You also might want to reread the rules, or at least watch &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6la-2F6EtyM&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a &quot;Watch it played&quot; video&lt;/a&gt; to make sure you aren't skipping any vital rules by mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T20:26:30.213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T20:26:30.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28262" CreationDate="2016-01-04T16:04:30.150" Score="2" ViewCount="548" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Lord of the Rings co-op game, you can discard quest cards with stars on any activity track since they are considered wild cards; however, when an event requires you to discard cards with a specific type (travelling, hiding, friendship, or fighting), can a quest card with a star be discarded instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13995" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:09:07.917" Title="In Lord of the Rings, can quest cards with stars be used to pay for events that require you to discard other cards of a specific type?" Tags="|lord-of-the-rings|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12019" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:02:38.137" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dealer has several options when exercising his duties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His employer wants him to generate as much revenue as possible, which means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dealing as many hands as possible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Giving the players a fun experience, along with some tiny hope that they could get an edge naturally&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detecting advantage players (card counters) and using counter measures to thwart them, without making mistakes such as taking a lucky high roller for an advantage player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reporting suspicious activities to the pit boss, or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which gives several options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The dealer can assist the players by adding the total for them. Sometimes it can be confusing since aces have potentially two values, or forcing them to take a quick decision, even taking it for them if they are too slow. Sometimes dealers will interpret conflicting signals to the house advantage, for instance hitting a 15 against a 5. The dealer can reversely act somewhat rudely and give slow players a bad experience so they can either speed up or leave the table for a new and potentially faster player to sit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A dealer can assist in giving advice, usually telling the hesitant player &quot;The book says...&quot; and even offer a free basic strategy card. This cards are often flawed and, even if not flawed and played perfectly, the house still has about a .6% edge with a 6-deck boot and hit on soft 17 rule. Giving that pleasant experience means the player could win that one time and come back to lose OR go through as many hands as possible in one hour. Pleasant experience to a player who wins = player happy = tip. Reversely, a dealer who spends too much time fraternizing could get into trouble for not dealing fast enough.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This one is tricky because not all card counters are easy to detect. Some use camouflage, like acting like a newbie at first or a tourist or dressing like a high roller, expensive brand clothing, $10K watch, pretty girl in tow. In this last case, chances are your player is a high roller. If you are suspicious of anything, you can signal the pit boss and the eye in the sky that your player COULD BE a counter. But in the case he is not, you could be backing off a high roller who enjoys losing tons of money at the table.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspicious activity could mean bizarre decisions, like double down on 12 (usually always reported), splitting 10s (which makes sense when you know the rest of the boot is loaded with 10s and aces), doubling down on 8, etc... Bizarre betting ramps, like starting with $10 bets and finishing with $500 bets. Again, your player could be a newbie, a high roller who loves living dangerously, or a card counter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, the dealer has many options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slowing down or going faster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assisting in totaling cards or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being pushy and somewhat rude towards slow players or helping them out and being charming, as tips is how they are really paid (casinos often pay minimum salary + benefits after several months, if you are lucky)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reporting suspicious activity or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reporting a player as a potential counter or not&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moving the cut card towards the center of the boot, meaning that card counters will be less likely to have an edge but the result will be less games dealt per hour. Sometimes this decision comes from management, following a string of hits by counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If dealers had no options, they'd have been replaced by robots a long time ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14804" LastEditorUserId="14804" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T16:00:34.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T16:00:34.220" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28260" CreationDate="2016-01-04T17:09:07.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Firstly I will point out there are two versions of the game: &lt;strong&gt;Fantasy Flight&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;Original&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Original Edition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://freespace.virgin.net/chris.lawson/rk/lotr/faq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Original FAQ&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: The Event cost at Speak Friend and Enter requires the players to discard a Friendship and Joker symbol. Frodo volunteers since he can discard any two white Hobbit cards to pay for the cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frodo's ability is the same as a wildcard (or Joker as this edition calls them) and therefore I would say it is clearly correct in this edition to use a wildcard in this manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fantasy Flight (Current)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/9d/88/9d880ea7-7d9b-44cb-b1b7-bed3db34e1e4/lotr-bg-rulebook-low-res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;FF Rulebook&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some cards have star symbols, which are wild. These&#xA;  may be played as any Activity symbol (Fighting,&#xA;  Friendship, Hiding, or Traveling). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't give a specific example like the older edition but given the older edition allows the usage of wildcards for events it would seem logical that it is still allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7151" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T17:09:07.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1120" CreationDate="2016-01-04T21:20:23.950" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our record is 5.5 hours for a 7 player game, 3.5 hours for a 4p game and we are convinced we can keep improving on it. But last night we spent more than 8 hours on a 6p game. I had a few ideas:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Don't bother including anyone who isn't actually going to be into it. If someone is going to be sitting there snoring at the pace of the game for several hours it's going to drag the whole group's energy down. People need to care enough to pay attention - if they aren't paying attention the game will take forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Attention is a limited resource. Some people like music, I personally feel that music with lyrics can be distracting if it's too loud. Minimize distractions. Coffee helps. Don't smoke pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Everyone needs to pay attention, but more than that, it helps if one or more players can actively manage the flow of the game, like &quot;Ok, player X just went, it is now player Y's turn. You're just building in your home system? Ok, player Z, if you're just doing the same you might as well go ahead and start while player Y is still finishing.&quot; With initiative rotating the way it does in this game, sooo much time is lost in that time between turns, until finally someone says &quot;Whose turn is it?&quot;  In an ideal world everyone would take responsibility for identifying the player who acts after them and informing them that it is now their turn, informing everyone what the secondary ability of the strategy card they just played is, etc. Too often somebody plays their strategy card (leadership, for example), and announces it, and the entire table STILL misses it somehow because so much stuff is going on in this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) It really helps if people can plan their turns out ahead of time. This isn't always possible but quite often it is. Builds in particular eat up a ton of game time, if you know that your next move is just going to be a build in your home system you should really have that move ready to execute by the time it gets to your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balancing these considerations can be tough! Spending your spare time thinking about the board state and planning your next move can mean that you don't pay attention to what is going on. The more players are actively involved in managing the flow of the game and making sure everyone knows what is going on, the better it will be. If only one person is taking responsibility for this, what happens when that person also has to take some time to think about their own moves/builds/plans? Again, attention is a limited resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for game rules that speed the game up,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The alternate strategy cards from Shattered Empire are almost a must&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Artifacts (add more victory points)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) A pre-set map. It takes long enough to unbox everything as it is, this should save a lot of time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Don't use distant suns, or political intrigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't played with simulated early turns but it looks pretty lame to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-04T21:20:23.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28277" CreationDate="2016-01-04T22:49:31.573" Score="2" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the description in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/63/3c/633c1f5d-b979-4a88-81a7-f92ca9758959/bbtm_rulebook_english_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulesbook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Star Player Cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These skilled players really know their way&#xA;  around the pitch! These improvements include&#xA;  famous Star Players and up-and-coming&#xA;  freebooters – aspiring stars who haven’t quite&#xA;  made it yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it seems to me that a freebooter is less powerful than a regular star, however, the effect of the mechanism used to recruit the Stars:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a manager drafts a Star Player with the Freebooter ability, the manager&#xA;  searches his roster and chooses one player to return to the game box. Then he&#xA;  adds the Star Player with the Freebooter ability to his roster and shuffles&#xA;  it to create a new Team deck (see below for a full explanation of the Freebooter ability).&#xA;  If the manager drafts any Star Players without the Freebooter ability, he&#xA;  places them on top of his Team deck in any order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;leaves me with the impression than my roster is better improved when I recruit a Freebooter than a regular Star. Granted, the regular Star goes on top of the Deck, making sure that he will play the next game but on the other hand, the Freebooter allows you to remove a weak player from your deck and to shuffle your discard (potentially containing Stars) back into your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's consider two Stars with the exact same abilities, is it better to recruit the Freebooter or the Regular Star?&#xA;What's the rationale behind this shuffling the discard back in the deck in this case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Freebooter: When you reveal this player from your improvement pile,&#xA;  you may remove any one Player card from either your Team deck or discard&#xA;  pile and return it to the game box. Then add the Freebooter to your roster&#xA;  and shuffle it to create a new Team deck. Resolve all Freebooters before&#xA;  placing Star Players without the Freebooter ability on top of the Team&#xA;  deck. (Unlike other abilities, the Freebooter ability only occurs during&#xA;  the turn in which this player was drafted.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T05:52:03.357" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:26:21.710" Title="In Blood Bowl Team Manager, are Freebooter Stars supposed to be more or less powerful than their regular counterparts?" Tags="|blood-bowl-team-manager|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28265" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-04T23:03:45.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Blood Bowl: Team Manager&lt;/em&gt; is a card game spinoff of &lt;em&gt;Blood Bowl&lt;/em&gt;, set in the Warhammer Fantasy universe, and focusing on managing a team over the course of a season. It was first released in 2011 by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also: &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/blood-bowl&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;blood-bowl&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;blood-bowl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:33.227" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:33.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28266" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-04T23:03:45.017" Score="0" Body="A card game spinoff of Blood Bowl, set in the Warhammer Fantasy universe, and focusing on managing a team over the course of a season." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:24.323" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:24.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28268" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-05T02:27:17.123" Score="0" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vulnerable vs. not, N-S are in a 4S contract (South 1NT, North 4H, South 4S, all other bids passed). North's bid was a &quot;transfer.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;QJ9832&#xA;JT4&#xA;A64&#xA;5&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;AKT7&#xA;A96&#xA;T72&#xA;AJ9&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baronbarclay.com/product/bridgecolumn010516/January2016&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frank Stewart&lt;/a&gt; reasonably points out that when West lead the K of clubs (presumably from KQT), South erred in taking A on the first trick. He then ruffed a club on the second trick, which I consider the real mistake.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My theory is that South can still save himself by returning the J of clubs to West's Queen on the second trick (pitching a diamond), win West's diamond return in dummy, go to his hand with a trump, and lead the 9 of clubs to West's T, pitching another diamond. When South regains the lead, he can ruff a diamond (high) in dummy, draw the last trump in hand, and ruff out the last diamond in dummy. In the remaining worst case scenario, South then finesses the Jack of hears &quot;around&quot; East and &quot;into&quot; West. (If East covers with an honor, South captures it with the ace and has reduced his heart losers to one). If West wins, he then has to lead a club for a ruff-sluff or away from a heart honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is as follows: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1)  The operative strategy is &quot;elimination.&quot; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2)  South needs to keep East off lead to prevent him from leading a heart before the elimination is completed.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3) The way to achieve 2) is to lose club tricks to West, rather than diamond tricks to East.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4) The way to achieve 3) is to dump dummy's diamond losers on South's club losers, so that South's diamond losers can be ruffed rather than conceded (loser on loser play).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5) Switch the club 5 and 9 between dummy and closed hand, and South needs to lose the first trick by playing the 5, because otherwise, there is no guarantee that East won't win the lowest club.&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Am I correct in saying the first trick &quot;mistake&quot; was still correctable on the second trick in this instance?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have I analyzed the hand correctly from a strategic point of view?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T03:05:22.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:17:37.980" Title="Am I analyzing the following hand properly?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28268" CreationDate="2016-01-05T04:27:07.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only if West has the Club 10. Ducking the first trick makes the location of the Club ten irrelevant (as witness that one ducks it by playing the Club 9 under the King).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in one sense yes, declarer &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be able to recover at trick 2; but declarer is &lt;em&gt;guaranteed&lt;/em&gt; to make the contract by ducking trick one. (I guess unless West was dealt 8 clubs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would probably enjoy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baronbarclay.com/product/339/71&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There must&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&amp;amp;rct=j&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;esrc=s&amp;amp;source=web&amp;amp;cd=2&amp;amp;cad=rja&amp;amp;uact=8&amp;amp;ved=0ahUKEwiVoY6_65HKAhVMkh4KHbyeCCQQFggdMAE&amp;amp;url=http%3A%2F%2Febooksbridge.com%2Fwww%2Febb%2Fsamples%2FSAMPLE_ThereMustBeAWay.pdf&amp;amp;usg=AFQjCNFQwa63GnZkAC5HenUgwdjEGsu92A&amp;amp;bvm=bv.110151844,d.dmo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;be a Way&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; by &lt;em&gt;Andrew Diosy&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hand also is interesting from an opening lead perspective. When I was learning Bridge I memorized the opening lead charts that were so popular at the time, which was good, but inferred from the ordering a false preference. These charts correctly identify &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;which card&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to lead from various holdings, but make no comment on &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;which suit&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to lead. It took me a while to &lt;em&gt;unlearn&lt;/em&gt; that bad habit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now look at poor West's opening problem against a Texas Transfer auction to 4S:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: 64&#xA;H: KQ83&#xA;D: J85&#xA;C: KQT4&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That Club lead looks so safe from that strong honour holding, but is one of only two suit choices that allows declarer to make the contract. Perhaps West should think more about the bidding and less about those glossy Opening Lead Charts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds are high that South has at least one of the outstanding honours in both round suits, so those honour combinations are easily compromised by being lead from. So what about the pointed suits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leading low from Jxxx is a true beginner move, but from J85 less so. An argument could be made for both the 8 and the 5 as the appropriate lead her, the small lie being told by the former probably not fatal. But the flaw here is that if it works, one risks quickly winning the third round with the Jack, trumps now drawn, endplayed for sure in those round suits. Not enough plus side here, so let's save that lead for later; our Jack suggests that Declarer will not wish to open this suit quickly either unless to rectify the count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves Spades. Dummy has 6 (not likely 7), West has 2, and Declarer promised 2 with his opening 1NT call. That leaves only 3 outstanding, and the likelihood of partner having a compromisable Queen third very low. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Just lead a spade here, saving a diamond exit for later (if necessary) when we start winning those round honours, and let Declarer struggle to down one like he should.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T05:17:37.980" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T05:17:37.980" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28270" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28273" CreationDate="2016-01-05T05:57:26.897" Score="5" ViewCount="3161" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I still get the actions of a card that I plan to scrap during that turn? For example, if I have the Brain World in play, I am allowed to scrap up to two cards from my hand or my discard pile. I have a Viper and a Scout that I want to get rid of. Do I still get to use their primary actions (1 Combat and 1 Trade) on that turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have interpreted this as the primary actions immediately &quot;fund&quot; the resource pool, so that I do get the benefit of their actions. This would be a no-brainer (pun intended) if the Brain World was not already in play, but it's a base and can carry over from a previous turn. So exactly when does that scrapping action have to take place? At the beginning or the end of the Main Phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13379" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-01-05T14:20:51.970" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T14:20:51.970" Title="Star Realms: scrapping a card in your hand" Tags="|star-realms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28264" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:18:06.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the Freebooter you not only gain a good (or at least decent) card, but  you also get rid of your least useful card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With any deck-building game I have played through the years, one of the general principles was always the same: The smaller the deck, the better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:18:06.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25046" CreationDate="2016-01-05T08:27:15.147" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deck is only shuffled when the card instructs you to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way it's semi-guaranteed that the Dragon will eventually wake up. With the &quot; shuffle when there are no heroes in the treasure chamber&quot; rule the Dragon could potentially never wake up - the heroes could reset his &quot;timer&quot; by leaving and re-entering the chamber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T08:27:15.147" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28270" CreationDate="2016-01-05T12:26:00.270" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your interpretation is incorrect. You cannot use the actions of a card that you scrap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that during the main phase, players may perform the following actions in any order (among other actions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Play cards from your hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Use the Primary Abilities of in-play Bases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the answer to your second question is that you can use the Brain World in whatever order you want during the main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules go on to state &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Ship is played, its Primary Ability triggers immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is to say, you must decide to play a card from your hand in order to gain the benefit of the primary ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under &quot;Playing Cards&quot; they say that to play a card, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;place it &quot;in-play&quot; (face-up on the table in front of you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later, in the Discard Phase,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put all in play Ships into your Discard Pile.&#xA;  Put any cards left in your hand into your Discard Pile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These quotes together make it clear that an &quot;in-play&quot; card is not in your hand, nor your discard pile. This demonstrates that using a Primary Ability and being scrapped by the Brain World are mutually exclusive (at least without some special ability to move cards from in-play to your hand or discard pile). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10186" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T12:26:00.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28075" CreationDate="2016-01-05T17:24:58.107" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This appears to be a legitimate scenario when using a card denial strategy if the AI keeps trashing a card.  Also, no, you cannot buy a scout.  They should never be on the market and are only part of a starting hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="86" LastActivityDate="2016-01-05T17:24:58.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28075" CreationDate="2016-01-06T00:17:31.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This can happen in an actual game if a person trashes all of their economy in order to get more damage efficiency.  A person with no money in their deck cannot purchase anything since the cheapest card in the market costs 1 (scouts are not in the market).  This is different from Dominion, where you can buy copper for 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if you have fewer than five cards in your deck at the end of a turn (either because of trashing or because your deck is mostly bases and you have all of them out), you draw as many cards as you can (namely all the cards in your deck).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:17:31.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28264" CreationDate="2016-01-06T00:26:21.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes a big difference when you gain the star player.  Gaining the average freebooter in the first round is better than gaining the average non-freebooter (there are always specific exceptions of course) because you will get to use that player statistically more often due to the smaller deck size.  Conversely, gaining a freebooter in the fourth round is potentially useless, as you want any star players you gain to come into play in the last round; only the ones put on top of your deck are guaranteed to do this.  The tipping point is somewhere in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other consideration is how much sprinting your base deck has.  Decks with more sprinting have less use for freebooters because they can filter their deck mid-game.  Consequently, it is better to have more powerful characters to get the most value out of the sprinting ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T00:26:21.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22581" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:40:58.667" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pagat site is very useful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It explains the main game &quot;Solo Whist&quot;, and also lists some minor variations, and other similar games in this &quot;Boston group&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They say that it is mainly played in Britain. Here in Australia we also play it. Solo Whist was taught to us as children to introduce us to card games, and has held us in good stead for Bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the &quot;Prop and Cop&quot;: We believe that that is an important aspect of the main game.  We do have that bid, and we find it to be very enjoyable. It is an opportunity to collaborate as two teams, rather than three people collaborating to defeat the solo declarer. If a Prop-and-Cop does not eventuate, then we also sometimes do the &quot;Goulash&quot; deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T13:21:41.773" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T13:21:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22581" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:44:03.757" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a variation regarding the dealing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We deal in clumps, i.e. one round of four, and three rounds of three. We allow the dealer to do whatever order that they want. Some try to get fancy regarding when they deal each four (e.g. different for each round), while most just start with a packet of 4 (i.e. 4,3,3,3) so as not to confuse themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Pagat and Wikipedia descriptions involve a single deck and use the final card of the dealer face-up to determine the trump suit. We instead use a second deck. This is then ready to go for the next game, being already shuffled and so just needing to be cut. So the game should be faster. This also means that the dealer does not need to expose one of their cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:44:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22581" CreationDate="2016-01-06T03:59:24.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a variation which we call &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.indexgeo.net/nash-whist/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot; title=&quot;Nash Whist&quot;&gt;Nash Whist&lt;/a&gt;&quot;. (Disclosure: Our group of players has been refining &quot;Solo Whist&quot; for many years. I have documented our version at the linked location.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have streamlined and simplified the shuffling and dealing (as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/22581/what-variations-are-there-on-solo-whist/28280#28280&quot; title=&quot;described&quot;&gt;described&lt;/a&gt; in the earlier answer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the original game the bids are limited. Apart from the Misere bids, the solo bids are Solo (five tricks) and Abundance (nine tricks) etc. This means that the main bid that occurs is Solo, and you also get paid for any &quot;over-tricks&quot; that you manage to make beyond the five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Nash Whist, we added other bids at every level from 6 to 13. We also added rank of suits, as for Bridge (explained below) and No-trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from the normal Prop-and-Cop, the minimal bid is the normal &quot;Five-in&quot; solo, i.e. play alone against the other three with the initial turned-up suit as trumps. So win five tricks in the indicated trump suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trump suit can be changed by any bidder when it is their turn to bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher bids will beat the previous bid. For example &quot;Seven-Out&quot; in any suit will beat &quot;Six-In&quot; (i.e. Six in trumps) and Seven-In will beat Seven-Out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rank of suits is as for Bridge (i.e. Spades is highest, then Hearts, Diamonds, Clubs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if Hearts was turned up trumps and the current bid is Six-In, then a bid of Seven-Out Clubs would beat that, and a bid of Seven-Out Diamonds would beat that. Note that a bid of Six-Out Spades does not beat Six-In, because in this example Hearts are trumps and so automatically rank at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding can start at any level, and proceeds with higher bids until no-one wants to bid further. The last bid is the &quot;declarer&quot;. Their suit is now Trumps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no payments for over-tricks. This encourages people to bid to the limit of their hand and not be safe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T03:59:24.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22581" CreationDate="2016-01-06T04:01:51.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a three-handed variant. We simply remove the whole Clubs suit. No Prop-and-Cop. Misere is difficult and often does not occur, so we add a &quot;Triste&quot; bid below 8-out, allowing one trick to be won. Everything else is the same, just need to modify some guidelines for hand-assessment and play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T04:01:51.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28283" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T05:57:52.207" Score="0" ViewCount="76" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most assists are worded as if they are required to be performed.  Do they &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to be if at all possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, the Backdoor card says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cancel all abilities on one obstacle for the rest of the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I then have only one obstacle left and it's description says that a runner gets 1 HP healed once it's defeated, does this have to be canceled?  The card doesn't say &quot;You may cancel all abilities&quot; but this seems like the sort of thing that would be a deck wide ruling, such as the runner not being required to apply all damage from the cards they play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-01-06T15:56:20.053" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T12:08:12.620" Title="Do you have to perform assist abilities?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28288" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28292" CreationDate="2016-01-06T17:42:36.633" Score="0" ViewCount="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a card has gold on both morning and evening action, do you have to put them in separate holds or can you combine them into one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:43:38.910" Title="What to do with two gold on one card?" Tags="|jamaica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28289" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28290" CreationDate="2016-01-06T18:05:01.173" Score="3" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm engaging an enemy in the staging area that has an action that happens when they engage me, does that action occur when I engage them instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I engage &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lotrlcg.com/Card/Focus/1075&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hummerhorns&lt;/a&gt; before my Threat hits 40 and they engage me, do i still have to deal 5 damage to one of my heroes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7519" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T18:38:05.250" Title="When you choose to engage an enemy, do they engage you too?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28290" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28289" CreationDate="2016-01-06T18:38:05.250" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;.  From page 16 of the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whether an enemy is engaged through an engagement check, through a&#xA;  card effect, or through a player’s choice, the end result is the same,&#xA;  with the enemy and the player engaging one another. In all cases, the&#xA;  player is considered to have engaged the enemy and the enemy is&#xA;  considered to have engaged the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T18:38:05.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28291" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-06T19:07:15.543" Score="1" ViewCount="983" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Warhammer 40K 7ed, the Dark Eldar's Haemonculus Covens &quot;power from pain&quot; rule gives their wracks the &quot;it will not die&quot; (IWND) special rule by turn 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: Does a unit with one wound (wracks for instance) stand to gain anything from &quot;it will not die&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my reading of the rules this would be useless because &quot;IWND&quot; rolls occur at the end of your turn while models that are reduced to 0 wounds are automatically removed from the game as casualties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean they never get a chance to use &quot;IWND&quot; to get their wound back before they die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14829" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T22:14:42.957" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T18:02:02.887" Title="Warhammer 40K 7ed: Haemonculus Covens &quot;It Will not Die&quot; rule effect on units with 1 wound" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28288" CreationDate="2016-01-06T21:43:38.910" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The morning action and evening action are done consecutively. The case of the card you're describing is discussed in the Continent section of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gameworks.ch/2010/pdf/jamaica_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; at the very bottom:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;doubloons obtained with the gold-gold card cannot be combined and placed in a single hold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-01-06T21:43:38.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3342" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:50:46.440" Score="-6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remember one thing though when you have just pawns left with bishops versus knight, you can put your pawns on opposite square as the bishop. But against the knight no pawn is safe. &#xA;I saw many endgames where a knight clobbered pawn the bishop. And vice versa. Every endgame is different it all depends on pawn formations king positions etc..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bishop and knight are equal grandmasters know or even veterans know when one of them is better than the other. Sometimes a bishop is stronger and sometimes it is the knight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14832" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T07:41:12.733" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T07:41:12.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28297" CreationDate="2016-01-06T22:51:36.370" Score="1" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game last night and on several occasions I missed scoring a base - miscounting, forgetfulness, etc.  My daughter, ever vigilant, noticed the missed scoring and brought it to my attention. Even though I had already completed the turn, we just scored the base. But I don't think this is the right thing to do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do the rules say about this?  I wasn't able to find anything.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would scoring be done at the end of the next player's turn in the proper ordering?  This would be my assumption and allow the next player to take advantage and add additional minions or move minions off to tip the base in their favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or would scoring be done as it is noticed, even if it's out of order?  I would assume this is incorrect even though this is what we did since we were just figuring things out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13255" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:36:23.217" Title="I missed scoring a base" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28296" CreationDate="2016-01-06T23:22:25.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't say anything about it, because they assume it won't happen.  Making rules for it would potentially allow people to game the system by claiming that they forgot.  I think the best way to handle it is make all players (not just the current one) responsible for ensuring that no base is ready to score.  Make a habit of going through each base as a group and counting up the power on it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still realize that you made a mistake before the end of the next turn, correct it as soon as you notice it, reversing state as needed.  If you get to the end of the next turn and then realize the mistake, just score it then.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="1866" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T17:36:23.217" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:36:23.217" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28299" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:53:12.183" Score="0" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Some useful starting points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Wikipedia] (&lt;a href=&quot;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solo_whist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solo_whist&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Pagat] (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastEditorUserId="12778" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T07:59:24.527" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T07:59:24.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28300" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-07T01:53:12.183" Score="0" Body="4-player trick-taking card game. For each hand, three players form an alliance to collaborate against the solo Declarer. 52 cards are used (Ace-high), no wild cards, no kitty. The minimum solo bid is five tricks in the trump suit. A lesser bid is &quot;Prop-and-Cop&quot; whereby the proposing team of two intend to take eight tricks. Five or six can be involved: old dealer sits out (for six, also previous dealer). There is a three-handed game, e.g. remove Club suit." OwnerUserId="12778" LastEditorUserId="12778" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T07:37:17.030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T07:37:17.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12640" CreationDate="2016-01-07T02:47:51.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Work out the binomial probability calculation* and you'll see that effective counter to the missile fleet is shields.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, let's say you're face with a force that shoots 8 missiles at +3.  Then a dreadnought that has a phase shield and gauss shield has only a 13.48% chance of being hit by three or more missiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your dreadnought might look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;nuclear source (+3e)&#xA;ion cannon (-1e)&#xA;nuclear drive (-1e)&#xA;phase shield (-1e)&#xA;gauss shield&#xA;improved hull&#xA;improved hull&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;will win that combat 86.52% of the time (i.e., survives the missile shot) and that's with only two, much cheaper, researched upgrades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;binomial probability calculation of n missiles hitting for an 8 missile shot at +3 targeting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E(n) = (8 choose n)&lt;em&gt;((4/6)^n)&lt;/em&gt;((2/6)^(8-n))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where 8 choose n = 8!/(n!*(8-n)!) and 4/6 is the likelihood of any one missile hitting and 2/6 is the likelihood of any one missile missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14835" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T02:47:51.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28302" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28304" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:11:30.043" Score="3" ViewCount="3523" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this situation: I use the ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt; and put it in the stack. My opponent play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rending%20Volley&quot;&gt;Rending Volley&lt;/a&gt; in response targeting Scion of the Ur-Dragon. In response I use it's ability again and put it in the top of the stack. First the dragon's ability resolves and I can choose any dragon that is not blue or white to avoid the volley(lets say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shivan%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt;). Then the volley resolves and it does not do anything because it has an invalid target. What happens next? The last ability in the stack says that Scion of the Ur-Dragon turn into a copy of a dragon, but it's name has changed to Shivan Dragon. Can I transform it again anyways with the last ability in the stack (if my first intention was to transform it in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oros%2C%20the%20Avenger&quot;&gt;Oros, the Avenger&lt;/a&gt; for example?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T13:33:09.493" Title="Scion of the Ur-Dragon multiple transformation" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28303" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:26:10.897" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;The front page of the &quot;Through the Ages - A New Story of Civilization&quot; Code of Laws says, at the end of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Age III events in the current and next events deck are evaluated in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having not yet played a full game, I haven't had it happen, but it certainly seems possible that there might be Age II (or earlier?) events in the current (or next) event decks at the end of the game. Are those evaluated too? It seems strange that you would skip over those, but is that the intent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="33" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:43:48.683" Title="Do Age II or earlier events happen at the end of the game?" Tags="|through-the-ages|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28302" CreationDate="2016-01-07T03:44:08.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It works. The following will explain the mechanics that you're asking about, passing over the parts you've identified.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, after the &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt; activation of it's ability resolves, will be a copy of Shivan Dragon. Now, the &lt;em&gt;First&lt;/em&gt; ability will try to resolve, and looks for the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, finding it as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shivan%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because of rules 109.1, 109.3, 201.4, and 201.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.1. An object is an ability on the stack, a card, a copy of a card, a token, a spell, a permanent, or an emblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, now a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shivan%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, is an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.3. An object’s characteristics are name, mana cost, color, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, abilities, power, toughness, loyalty, hand modifier, and life modifier. Objects can have some or all of these  characteristics. Any other information about an object isn’t a characteristic. For example, characteristics don’t include whether a permanent is tapped, a spell’s target, an object’s owner or controller, what an Aura enchants, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the multiple Characteristics the object has, we care about its name: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, we care about its name at the time the abilities of interest are activated, because that ability refers to it by name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.5. If an ability of an object uses a phrase such as “this [something]” to identify an object, where [something] is a characteristic, it is referring to that particular object, even if it isn’t the appropriate characteristic at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the ability is activated and placed on the stack, though it said &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt; at the time, it is referring to that card. Even after the effect of the &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt; ability activation copies the Characteristics of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shivan%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt;, the ability on the stack still point at that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T04:58:26.923" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T04:58:26.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28229" CreationDate="2016-01-07T04:01:12.817" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While @&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/409/jefromi&quot;&gt;Jefromi&lt;/a&gt;'s &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/28233/180&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt; is correct, you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use an Event card (like Airlift) and not have it count against your action limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether or not that is &lt;em&gt;helpful&lt;/em&gt; (especially when you can play them at any point, even not on your turn) is another question entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="180" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T04:01:12.817" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28303" CreationDate="2016-01-07T11:05:26.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not got rules to hand but in the original game this was the case.  All the age III events were &quot;impact of.....&quot; and gave bonus points.  Any events from age II or I if still in the event deck would be things that only mattered during the game and not needed to be evaluated at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit -  I'll try and explain this a bit better with a dash of theme!  Yes you are correct, it is possible that age II events mights still be in either event deck, but they do not need evaluating.  They are just things that thematically never happened.  A Colony that maintained independence, a crime wave that never happened, no economic progress, wonders never ravaged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of these age II cards will not affect scoring.  Only a few will effect scoring directly and some might do if impact of Colonies has been played for example.  once the game is over most the effects, Such as gaining food or resources, won't be a factor.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end of the game bonus points represent the 'Impact of...' things on the world.  Not what is seeded to happen in the future as in game terms that future never got around to happening.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="13753" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T12:08:16.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T12:08:16.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28308" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T12:00:37.637" Score="3" ViewCount="1767" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player is not allowed to use any special order token (tokens with star) and they still want to play an order token of a kind (eg. 3 march orders), can they play the special order token as a regular order token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an extreme case, what if all the other kinds of regular tokens are used and no special order tokens can be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14841" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T07:32:48.293" Title="Game of Thrones: What if we run out of all the order tokens and are compelled to use special order tokens?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28309" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T13:01:06.183" Score="4" ViewCount="5924" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.toptrumps.com/how-to-play-top-trumps/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If two or more cards share the top value or data is not available for that particular subject then all the cards are placed in the middle and the same player chooses again from the next card. The winner of the hand takes the cards in the middle as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what they don't make clear is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does every player continue to play in this case?  (If two players have the same top value and a third player does not, does the third player continue to play &amp;#8211; and possibly even win the hand?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if this situation occurs on a player's last card?  They cannot carry on but have not yet lost the hand!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some &lt;em&gt;de facto&lt;/em&gt; rule that's used in each of these circumstances?  Or is there an official rule that is just hard to find?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14838" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T03:34:53.223" LastActivityDate="2018-09-22T19:29:14.093" Title="Clarification on the rules of Top Trumps when two or more cards win" Tags="|top-trumps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:48:03.243" Score="-2" ViewCount="160" Body="&lt;p&gt;It has rounds like taboo. It has charades round. Talking without repetition round and couple of others&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Desperate to find&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14845" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T03:10:15.727" Title="Looking for a game I played" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-01-08T04:33:59.827" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28312" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:49:33.930" Score="4" ViewCount="2744" Body="&lt;p&gt;My classmate says that you can't have another queen if one of your chess officials (knights, bishops and rooks) are captured and not yet replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14846" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2017-04-26T20:07:25.570" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T13:32:51.930" Title="Can a pawn be promoted to queen if the player is missing a knight, bishop or rook?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28313" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T14:50:21.263" Score="0" ViewCount="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you land on a space that requires payment, do you load resources before making the payment, or the other way around?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:17:03.730" Title="Do you load before paying?" Tags="|jamaica|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28314" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28312" CreationDate="2016-01-07T15:05:28.417" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can promote a pawn to any piece (other than a Pawn or King), regardless of how many of that piece is on the board. In theory, you could have nine Queens by the end of the game (unlikely, of course). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Piece availability is not a concern, either. An upside-down rook (if available) is the recommended stand-in for a queen, though you may have to improvise due to limited resources (stacked checkers tiles also work well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastEditorUserId="13732" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T15:39:24.777" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T15:39:24.777" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28313" CreationDate="2016-01-07T16:28:36.243" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In fact, you cannot load and move at the same moment, and as payment can only happen after a move, the problem you describe never occurs.&#xA;First you make the morning action (move and eventually pay &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; load) &lt;strong&gt;then&lt;/strong&gt; the evening action (move and eventually pay &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; load).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it's explained on the &quot;island&quot; #2 (Action Types) in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gameworks.ch/2010/pdf/jamaica_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T17:17:03.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T17:17:03.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28316" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:46:03.157" Score="6" ViewCount="3264" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Golden%20Urn&quot;&gt;Golden Urn&lt;/a&gt; on the board with 10 counters on it.  If I destroy it and he sacs it in response to gain the life, is there anything that can be done about that?  Like, can I put another destroy artifact on the stack to resolve before his sac resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14854" LastEditorUserId="1888" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T22:02:36.477" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T11:00:13.573" Title="Is there any way to stop someone from sacrificing a Golden Urn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28317" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28316" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:54:34.750" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot do anything to the Urn to stop the ability once they activate it. In an activated ability, the cost is the part before the colon. Since they sacrifice the Urn as part of the activation cost, it's already in the graveyard by the time you have a chance to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, starting with your destruction spell (or ability), here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast a spell that would destroy their Urn (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;, for example).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gets a chance to respond, and they decide to activate the Urn's second ability. To do that, they tap the Urn and sacrifice it. Now, the Urn is in the graveyard and its ability is on the stack on top of your spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You now have a chance to respond. You can't cast anything targeting the Urn, because it's not on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Their ability resolves and they gain 10 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your artifact destruction spell does nothing to the Urn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that while you can't do anything to the Urn to stop the ability, you can stop the ability itself. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;, for example, would allow you to counter the ability directly once they activate it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-07T22:01:34.510" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T22:01:34.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28316" CreationDate="2016-01-07T21:59:39.567" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Golden Urn's ability is an Activated Ability. You would need an effect that counters activated abilities in order to prevent it. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Trickbind&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt; are the most common choices (In my own experience), though other similar cards do exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also cast a spell to prevent players from Gaining life (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=False%20Cure&quot;&gt;False Cure&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=SkullCrack&quot;&gt;SkullCrack&lt;/a&gt;, etc), or End the Turn before the effect resolves (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Golden Urn's ability cost includes sacrificing itself. Therefore, it is no longer on the field by the time you would have an opportunity to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T21:59:39.567" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28319" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28311" CreationDate="2016-01-07T22:31:28.473" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a party game called Celebrity, in which players write names of people on strips of paper and put them into a hat. There is then a sequence of rounds, and in each round someone takes one of the names out of the hat and tries to get others in the group to guess the name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the first round, clues can be anything that don't include the name itself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the second round, the clue must be a single word.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the third round, the clue must be silent and use only actions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are then a bunch of alternative rounds that typically come after the third. The game has been released commercially at least twice - once as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1353/times&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Times Up!&lt;/a&gt; (and Times Up! Title Recall), and once as &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/156546/monikers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Monikers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.shutupandsitdown.com/blog/post/review-monikers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shut Up and Sit Down review of Monikers&lt;/a&gt; discusses some of the additional rounds, as well as a little about the history of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-01-07T22:31:28.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28322" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28324" CreationDate="2016-01-08T03:30:47.747" Score="6" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Tiny Epic Galaxies you can follow people's moves on their turn, and one move might be to upgrade your empire, upon which you'd gain a new ship. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or similarly you might upgrade at the start of your turn and gain a new ship. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - when do these ships arrive for the purposes of: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Being able to move them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counting them toward receiving energy/culture. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T08:14:16.283" Title="In Tiny Epic Galaxies - when do you get your new ships?" Tags="|tiny-epic-galaxies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28308" CreationDate="2016-01-08T07:27:07.107" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No. You may not use them.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From page 22. on the 2nd Edition rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In addition to 10 normal Order tokens, each House also have five Special Order tokens. A player may use any of his 10 normal Order tokens during the Planning Phase, but may use only as many Special Order tokens as he has stars on the King's Court Influence track position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While special orders are purely better than their regular counterparts, they have an additional subtle advantage: Having access to &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt; instances of any order type (rather than two), can be of tremendous benefit to many strategies (such as launching a major offensive, quickly accumulating power, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a key dynamic in Game of Thrones that you have less order tokens than you'd like. You need to choose wisely how to use them, and this rule also incentivises you to bid on the King's Court Influence track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have run out of Order tokens that you'd like to play (such as march and support orders), then you need to fill your remaining spaces with the less useful tokens such as defence and raid orders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario where a player has used all of his possible order tokens is described on page 12, in the section 'Not enough order tokens?'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In very rare circumstances, a player will have fewer eligible Order&#xA;  tokens than he needs (ie. he is unable to assign an order to each area&#xA;  containing one or more of his units). &lt;strong&gt;In this case all players must&#xA;  take the Assign Orders step in turn order&lt;/strong&gt; (rather than&#xA;  simultaneiously). The first player places all of his orders (facedown&#xA;  as normal) on the game board, followed by the next player in turn&#xA;  order, etc. The player(s) with insufficient number of eligible Order&#xA;  tokens must place &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; his eligible Order tokens during his turn,&#xA;  but as an exception to the normal rules, is allowed to leave areas (of&#xA;  his choice) without an order. &lt;strong&gt;A player may &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt;, under any&#xA;  circumstance place more order tokens than allowed by his position on&#xA;  the King's court influence track.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are very clear about this. It is by design that you don't have enough order tokens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T07:32:48.293" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T07:32:48.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28322" CreationDate="2016-01-08T08:14:16.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ships come in play as soon as you take/follow the &quot;upgrade your empire&quot; action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/121333/official-rule-book-tiny-epic-galaxies&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;on page 8:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you gain a ship, immediately place it on the center of your Galaxy Mat. This ship can be used on the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T08:14:16.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28316" CreationDate="2016-01-08T11:00:13.573" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Responding to the activation of Golden Urn's ability with another destroy effect will not work, since you cannot respond to the cost being paid (which is sacrificing the Urn in this case). Other answers explained it better, I just wanted to offer another solution: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/ts/en/202.html&quot;&gt;Krosan Grip&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Due to Split Second, your opponent will not have a chance to activate the Golden Urn in response, causing it to be destroyed without an opportunity to activate it. Note that Split Second does not prohibit abilities to trigger, in case that should matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14289" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T11:00:13.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28327" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-08T11:45:06.803" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T11:45:06.803" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T11:45:06.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28328" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-08T11:45:06.803" Score="0" Body="&quot;Evolution. The Origin of Species&quot; is a card game inspired by the evolutionary biology. Two or more players create their own animals, make them evolve, hunt, survive…" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-08T19:09:31.107" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T19:09:31.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28312" CreationDate="2016-01-08T15:57:24.240" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, going for official rules here :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player, having the move, plays a pawn to the rank furthest from its starting position, he must exchange that pawn as part of the same move for a new queen, rook, bishop or knight of the same colour on the intended square of arrival.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is called the square of ‘promotion’. The player's choice is not restricted to pieces that have been captured previously. This exchange of a pawn for another piece is called promotion, and the effect of the new piece is immediate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(source : FIDE Handbook E, Laws of chess, §3.7.e : &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fide.com/fide/handbook.html?id=171&amp;amp;view=article&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.fide.com/fide/handbook.html?id=171&amp;amp;view=article&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't state whether or not you can promote you pawn to a queen if one or more of the other pieces are gone. Therefore you can do whatever you want in promotion as long as you don't do an illegal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13091" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-08T15:57:24.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-07T19:14:00.490" Score="3" ViewCount="889" Body="&lt;p&gt;I really want to start getting in matches. I'm still a beginner but I want to practice versing people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="Bright Poet" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T16:39:06.620" Title="Where can I find Duel Monster tournaments in the U.S.?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28330" CreationDate="2016-01-08T19:37:22.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your Local Gaming/Comic Book Shop likely hosts Yu-Gi-Oh tournaments, along with similar games such as Magic the Gathering, Force of Will, Pokemon, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without knowing your location, I cannot point you to a specific shop, but there is a store locator available &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yugioh-card.com/en/events/locations.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastEditorUserId="14930" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T20:26:23.600" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:26:23.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28333" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:15:00.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mauna Kea&lt;/em&gt; is an adventure game involving researchers recovering artifacts from a volcanic island in the South Pacific. It was first published in 2013 by HUCH! &amp;amp; friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:08:24.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:08:24.993" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28334" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:15:00.997" Score="0" Body="An adventure game involving researchers recovering artifacts from a volcanic island in the South Pacific." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:10:00.073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:10:00.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28335" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:17:05.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;One Hit Kill&lt;/em&gt; is a card game in which players compete to be the first to build a weapon. It is a self-published game first released in 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:11:02.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:11:02.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28336" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:17:05.833" Score="0" Body="A card game in which players compete to be the first to build a weapon" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:06:48.520" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:06:48.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28337" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:22:36.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;BattleCON&lt;/em&gt; (short for Battle Connection) is a card game in the &quot;World of Indines&quot; series where heroes face off against one another in a battle of tactics and strategy. The first title, BattleCON: War of Indines, was released in 2010 by Level 99 Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:09:53.193" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:09:53.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28338" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:22:36.883" Score="0" Body="A card game in the &quot;World of Indines&quot; series where heroes face off against one another in a battle of tactics and strategy." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:09:56.960" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:09:56.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28339" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:32:36.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cranium&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;whole-brain&quot; party game that requires players to complete for categories of activities to win. It was first published in 1998 by Cranium, Inc. and was later published by Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:08:11.913" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:08:11.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28340" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:32:36.867" Score="0" Body="A &quot;whole-brain&quot; party game that requires players to complete for categories of activities to win." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:08:15.867" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:08:15.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28341" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:39:38.283" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Antike Duellum&lt;/em&gt;, originally titled &lt;em&gt;Casus Belli&lt;/em&gt;, is a two-player strategy game about ancient civilizations competing to be the first to gain nine ancient personages. It was first published in 2011 by PD-Verlag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:09:41.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:09:41.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28342" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-09T03:39:38.283" Score="0" Body="A two-player strategy game about ancient civilizations competing to be the first to gain nine ancient personages." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-09T06:10:58.280" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T06:10:58.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28343" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T14:20:28.083" Score="0" ViewCount="7829" Body="&lt;p&gt;E.g.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Player 1 plays a Draw 2 Card.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;- Player 2 picks up 2 cards, one of which is a Wild Draw 4 Card. He also draws another unplayable card. The draw pile is showing a yellow card. Player 2 has a yellow card in his hand (but he is not allowed to play these).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can he play the Wild Draw 4 Card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say yes because he has no other playable cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;My partner says no because he has a card in his hand that matches the colour of the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the official rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14869" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T07:11:47.040" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T21:06:45.190" Title="In Uno, can you play a Wild Draw 4 Card drawn as a penalty, if you have a card the same colour as the draw pile?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28343" CreationDate="2016-01-09T15:08:29.813" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Official Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Official rules&quot; do vary slightly from site to site, however all seem to agree (including &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uno_(card_game)#Official_rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules on Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;) that being on the receiving end of a Draw Two or Wild Draw Four forces the player to draw 2/4 cards &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; forfeit their turn, therefore Player 2 is not allowed to use either card, and play continues to the next player after Player 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the official rules you are only allowed to immediately play drawn cards when, on your turn you choose to draw a card, and the card you have drawn is playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;House rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise there is a common house rule regarding not ending your turn after receiving a Draw Two and/or Wild Draw Four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If playing with this house rule Player 2 must play the yellow card - if they were to play the Wild Draw Four they could be challenged by Player 1, and end up drawing more cards as a penalty for playing a Wild Draw Four while they have a card in hand that matches the current colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T21:03:58.837" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T21:03:58.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28345" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:22:44.320" Score="1" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Extraction mission notes where Scenes end, but doesn't say what happens when a scene ends.  What is the significance of even saying the Scene ends, then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T04:28:58.587" Title="What is the significance of a Scene ending in the Extraction mission?" Tags="|shadowrun-crossfire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28345" CreationDate="2016-01-09T20:24:32.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I see mention of there being upgrades that are &quot;once per scene&quot;.  This seems to be the reason for stating these boundaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-01-09T20:24:32.740" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28347" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28348" CreationDate="2016-01-09T23:17:12.950" Score="12" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm struggling to find a good handicap for Ticket To Ride. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I'm playing with newer, or less strategic players, I'm beating them by 50 points or so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't like a simple points handicap, as that can seem patronizing. Instead, &lt;strong&gt;I prefer to have a personal handicap, that I don't tell the others about.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've tried a 'Keep all three tickets to start, and then for first turn immediately draw another three' system, but that often backfires if I get a good bonanza get a massive score achieving them all. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T22:17:49.163" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T19:01:20.927" Title="How can I handicap Ticket To Ride: USA, without seeming patronizing?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|handicap|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28347" CreationDate="2016-01-10T00:40:34.813" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some actions you can take, in increasing order of difficulty it will impose:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't aim for the Longest Route.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't draw from the visible options. This will reduce the 'skill' you can exercise, making your plays more dependent on luck. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use wild Cards to fill out a color set. Makes it harder to get the longer routes. Knowing that they may gather in your hand, you can still use them as a full set to claim a route.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't use wild cards at all. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase the number of trains you have to collect to claim the smaller routes. Instead of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, use 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 6. This will drastically slow your ability to claim routes. Don't actually play the extra card, just collect them.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-01-10T03:37:32.030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T03:37:32.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28349" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28350" CreationDate="2016-01-10T01:25:51.077" Score="5" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose that a game play error occurs during a tournament. Both players agree that they would rather handle the error themselves than call a judge, and so they agree on a resolution and continue to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sarah accidentally looks at the top two cards of her library during her draw step. She asks her opponent, &quot;Is it okay if I just take the top card, and shuffle the other card back into my library?&quot; Her opponent says that this is okay, and so Sarah does this, and both players continue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During combat, José mistakenly believes one of his creatures has taken lethal damage, and puts it into his graveyard. His opponent doesn't notice the mistake. A couple of turns later, José's opponent realizes José's mistake and points it out. José says, &quot;It's okay, we'll just keep playing&quot;, and his opponent agrees.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this legal, or is it an infraction of some kind (perhaps collusion or cheating)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14873" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T02:53:36.960" Title="Are players permitted to resolve errors between themselves, without involving a judge?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28349" CreationDate="2016-01-10T02:53:36.960" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I can tell, there is no specific rule in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_15oct02_en.pdf&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; that requires a player to call a judge when a rule is broken. All it says is that a player is responsible for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Calling attention to any rules or policy infraction they notice in their matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_02oct15_en.pdf&quot;&gt;infraction procedure guide&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a minor violation is quickly handled by the players to their mutual satisfaction, a judge does not need to intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider, though, that it may be unwise to make such an agreement when your opponent breaks a rule. These agreements are informal and do not involve a judge, so your opponent is under no obligation to extend the same courtesy to you. Plus, an unscrupulous player could use these agreements to their advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T02:53:36.960" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28351" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28676" CreationDate="2016-01-10T15:53:11.340" Score="8" ViewCount="3441" Body="&lt;p&gt;At Pagat's website, it says game of Hearts (the card game) ends when a player reaches 100 points or more: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/reverse/hearts.html#scoring&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.pagat.com/reverse/hearts.html#scoring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies that the game ends even if two players are tied for first place. I've always played it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But recently someone told me that they use a rule so that you must continue playing until there is a single first-place finisher (i.e. single low-scorer).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a clear rule for this, or does it vary a lot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13697" LastActivityDate="2020-04-07T01:49:50.623" Title="Can two players tie for first place in Hearts?" Tags="|house-rules|hearts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28347" CreationDate="2016-01-10T17:22:52.843" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the suggestions from Drunk Cynic I would suggest:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allowing a 50 point weaker player to draw 1 extra long route and 2 extra short routes at the start and allow them to keep up to 2 extra route cards.  You can reduce this handicap as their play improves. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Give them 2 or 3 or more free moves at the start of the game (again this handicap may be reduced as their play improves)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Eliminate the tunnel penalty phase for them&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let them pick 1 or 2 extra train cards at each draw (perhaps for the first 25 draws or some other limit that can be adjusted as their play improves)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Let them use 1 to 4 free stations&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14029" LastActivityDate="2016-01-10T17:22:52.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28355" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-11T02:45:31.697" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've just encountered a situation playing this with my daughter where she has played the Finger of God and there's a Play All card in the table. Does this mean she can keep Playing Finger of God until there are no more Creepers on the table? Seems to be a loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14882" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T03:38:06.287" Title="Fluxx - Monty Python: Finger of God &amp; Play All" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-13T17:31:49.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28355" CreationDate="2016-01-11T03:38:06.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the wording of the card, and a strict interpretation of the rules, &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more specific, if the rule &quot;Play All&quot; is in effect and your daughter has played the &quot;Finger of God&quot;, she &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; choose to smite a Creeper in play and, in doing so return the FoG to her hand, where she &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt;, at some point in her turn, play it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At which point, she can again choose to smite a Creeper, and so on until either there are no Creepers left, or she chooses to not use the FoG's ability, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; for some reason she is not able to play the card again (e.g. the rules change back to &quot;Play 1&quot;, or she trades her hand with the FoG in it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T03:38:06.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13059" CreationDate="2016-01-11T03:56:13.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/invented/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pagat.com Invented Card Games&lt;/a&gt; page, John enables contributions. Some entries are whole web page descriptions of a game, while other entries are a link to a description elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T03:56:13.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28351" CreationDate="2016-01-11T09:49:10.490" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ties can be relatively common in Hearts, depending on the difference in skill levels between participating players. If you're playing for fun it might not seem right. If you're playing for wagers, it simply means that those who are tied receive an equal share of the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Joe W points out in his comment, you can 'win' at hearts by not losing. This can lead to 3 players pinning nearly all the points on a single, weaker player. I've played on a site where this was common practice, the remaining 3 would usually be very close to each other in terms of scoring and occasionally tie for first (or second) place. There is no real incentive to break this tie position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T08:56:11.867" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T08:56:11.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28360" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:13:57.770" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T19:13:57.770" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T19:13:57.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28361" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-11T19:13:57.770" Score="0" Body="A game based upon Carcassonne but set during the early settlement of the United States." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T03:29:23.267" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T03:29:23.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28364" CreationDate="2016-01-11T20:29:35.363" Score="3" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shapesharer&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Elemental&lt;/a&gt; in play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I activate and resolve &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Artificial%20Evolution&quot;&gt;Artificial Evolution&lt;/a&gt; to make Quicksilver Elemental a Shapeshifter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I activate Quicksilver Elemental's ability to have it gain the activated abilities of some other 3rd creature (doesn't matter which.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While that is on the stack,  I target Quicksilver Elemental with Shapesharer's ability, making it a copy of some other 4th creature (doesn't matter which.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the end result that Quicksilver Elemental becomes a copy of creature 4 with the abilities of creature 3 tacked on, as I intend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-11T21:22:40.860" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:57:59.190" Title="If a card becomes cloned while another text-modifying effect is on the stack, what is the result?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28362" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:02:13.327" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seems like it would work. Abilities are independent of the source, so once the &quot;gain abilities&quot; ability is on the stack, it's not dependent on the Elemental. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And since the ability refers to the card name, which actually means &quot;this card&quot; then even if it becomes a clone the ability still has the same target and should properly resolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This scenario seems very similar to: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/28302&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon multiple transformation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-11T21:02:13.327" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28362" CreationDate="2016-01-11T21:12:34.157" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your stack after step 4 is (top to bottom):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shapesharer&quot;&gt;Shapesharer&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Elemental&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Elemental&lt;/a&gt;'s activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shapesharer's ability resolves first. Quicksilver becomes a copy of Creature 4. Per rule 706.3, Quicksilver's abilities become those of Creature 4. This also means that Quicksilver loses its original ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.3. The copy’s copiable values become the copied information [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quicksilver's ability resolves second. Quicksilver (who is now a copy of Creature 4) gains all activated abilities of Creature 3 until end of turn. It does not lose any abilities it already had. The fact that Quicksilver changed names before the ability resolved does not matter per rule 201.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The result is that Quicksilver will end up a copy of Creature 4 with the abilities of both Creature 3 and Creature 4, but not its own original ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Quicksilver were to become a copy of another creature, it would still retain the abilities of Creature 3. This is because the effect granting it abilities is not a copiable characteristic (per rule 706.2), and thus is not overwritten when it becomes a copy of something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;706.2. [...] The “copiable values” are the values derived from the text printed on the object (that text being name, mana cost, color indicator, card type, subtype, supertype, rules text, power, toughness, and/or loyalty), as modified by other copy effects, by its face-down status, and by “as . . . enters the battlefield” and “as . . . is turned face up” abilities that set power and toughness (and may also set additional characteristics). Other effects (including type-changing and text-changing effects), status, and counters are not copied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:57:59.190" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:57:59.190" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28365" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28366" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:20:19.227" Score="18" ViewCount="10630" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to have a scenario where you pick a tile up, and are unable to make a legal placement with it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T09:39:32.687" Title="Is it possible to have an unplayable tile?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28365" CreationDate="2016-01-11T22:27:06.107" Score="39" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this rule very quickly in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=462&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the rare circumstance where a drawn tile has no legal placement&#xA;  (and all players agree), the player discards the tile from the game&#xA;  (into the box) and draws another tile to place&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgwrL.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KgwrL.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T09:39:32.687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T09:39:32.687" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28367" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23452" CreationDate="2016-01-12T05:30:34.560" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When being polite, we call it &quot;Prediction&quot;. We go from maximum cards down to one, then back up to the maximum. We do &quot;simultaneous bidding&quot; as explained at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat&lt;/a&gt;. However if the total is the same as the number of cards dealt, then the dealer &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; change their bid by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T05:30:34.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-12T05:31:41.320" Score="4" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with both the Cities &amp;amp; Knights expansion and the Volcano variant, can a volcano eruption destroy a player's knight? (Knights occupy intersections, so theoretically the lava could flow down upon them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12532" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T10:04:41.570" Title="Can a Catan Volcano destroy a knight?" Tags="|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28370" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28372" CreationDate="2016-01-12T06:07:02.660" Score="0" ViewCount="715" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider this new card from Oath of the Gatewatch -- Crush of Tentacles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize the first part -- &lt;em&gt;&quot;Return all nonland permanents to their owners' hands&quot;&lt;/em&gt; -- happens when the spell resolves, but what about the second part of the card text -- &lt;em&gt;&quot;If Crush of Tentacles surge cost was paid, put an 8/8 blue Octopus creature token onto the battlefield.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that trigger when the card is cast or when the spell resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUVlB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qUVlB.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:30:10.207" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T02:44:02.787" Title="Do Surge triggers happen &quot;on cast&quot; or when the spell resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28370" CreationDate="2016-01-12T06:23:14.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Surge effect will occur when the Card resolves, since it is in the same paragraph as the spell's effect, per 112.2c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.2c An object may have multiple abilities. If the object is represented by a card, then aside from certain defined abilities that may be strung together on a single line (see rule 702, “Keyword Abilities”), each paragraph break in a card’s text marks a separate ability. If the object is not represented by a card, the effect that created it may have given it multiple abilities. An object may also be granted additional abilities by a spell or ability. If an object has  multiple instances of the same ability, each instance functions independently.  This may or may not produce more effects than a single instance; refer to the specific ability for more information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it were to happen when you cast the spell with Surge, it would be worded more like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Genesis%20Hydra&quot;&gt;Genesis Hydra&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast XX for its surge cost, &lt;em&gt;do this thing.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T15:19:17.050" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T15:19:17.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28370" CreationDate="2016-01-12T07:37:53.557" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect that checks whether the Surge cost was paid resolves when the spell resolves. This is because abilities of Instants and Sorceries are by default &quot;spell abilities&quot;, and resolve when the spell resolves. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 112.3a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spell abilities are abilities that are followed as instructions while an instant or sorcery spell is resolving. &lt;strong&gt;Any text on an instant or sorcery spell is a spell ability unless it’s an activated ability, a triggered ability, or a static ability that fits the criteria described in rule 112.6.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of those exceptions apply here. It's not an activated ability, because it doesn't have the form &quot;[cost]: [effect]&quot; [CR 112.3b]. It's not a triggered ability because it doesn't start with the word &quot;At&quot;, &quot;When&quot;, or &quot;Whenever&quot; [CR 112.3c]. And it's not a static ability, because it's written as an instruction, not a statement [CR 112.3d].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you are resolving the spell, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_spells_and_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 608.2c&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the Octopus token enters the battlefield immediately after the other creatures return to their owners' hands, and it does not itself get returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T16:14:06.793" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T16:14:06.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28373" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28368" CreationDate="2016-01-12T10:04:41.570" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.de/faq/3017-was-passiert-mit-rittern-am-vulkan-wenn-dieser-ausbricht&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;German Q&amp;amp;A&lt;/a&gt; on this subject that says Knights are &lt;strong&gt;unaffected&lt;/strong&gt; by volcanic eruptions. The reason for this is simply stated as &quot;Because the rules on eruptions only describe the effects on settlements and cities, you can conclude that nothing happens to knights.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find this answer quite unsatisfactory, and I recommend that you decide before the game starts how to handle this occurrence. Personally I prefer to think that the volcano drives knights away. The owner then has to move the knight to a different intersection, taking all relevant rules into consideration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T10:04:41.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28374" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28375" CreationDate="2016-01-12T11:48:56.103" Score="3" ViewCount="557" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Specifically, those &lt;em&gt;other than&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22for%20ante%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ante cards&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?format=%5B%22Un-Sets%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;un-cards&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shahrazad&quot;&gt;Shahrazad&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I remember reading someone speculating that knowledge of how to cast them was mostly lost, with those who still know generally unwilling to teach others. What's the in-universe story behind banned cards, if there is one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13741" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T07:30:38.983" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T07:30:38.983" Title="Does the MtG lore have an official explanation for banned cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-lore|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28374" CreationDate="2016-01-12T14:27:43.140" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;To my knowledge, none of the media put out by Wizards of the Coast provides thematic justification for the banning, or restriction, of specific cards. In a general sense, some keyword abilities or effects only appear in specific regions, because they are generated thematically for those portions of the verse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are banned solely for mechanical reasons, to limit the dominance they would exercise within one format or another. The intent is to avoid tournaments where the banned cards start to define the meta, to the extent that there is only one deck played, or one deck and a deck designed to beat it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is specifically highlighted by Wizards of the Coast on the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/bannedrestricted&quot;&gt;Banned and Restricted Lists&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  One key to the continued health of Magic is diversity. It is vitally important to ensure that there are multiple competitive decks for the tournament player to choose from. Why? If there were only a single viable deck to play, tournaments would quickly stagnate as players were forced to either play that deck or a deck built specifically to beat it. In addition, different players enjoy playing different types of decks. If there are plenty of viable options to play, there will be more players at more tournaments.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  To help maintain the diversity and health of the Magic tournament environment, a system of banned and restricted lists has been developed. These lists are made up of cards that are either not allowed at all, or allowed only in a very limited manner.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  It’s important to note a couple of things: First, these lists apply only to Constructed formats and not Limited formats. Second, the banned and restricted lists are format-specific, so a card that is banned in Modern may still be legal to play in Standard.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Banning a card is uncommon. Announcements for changes to the Banned &amp;amp; Restricted lists are done all together on the Monday after a new set’s Prerelease, to go into effect with that set’s release. This way, the formats you play change as infrequently as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For specific guidance on why a card was banned, you would have to look through the Magic the Gathering Article Archives for &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/news/september-28-2015-banned-and-restricted-announcement-2015-09-28&quot;&gt;Banned and Restricted Announcement&lt;/a&gt;'s. Googling with the terms &quot;banned&quot;, &quot;restricted&quot;, &quot;announcement&quot;, and &lt;em&gt;card name&lt;/em&gt; will get you the pertinent announcement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T14:36:28.347" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T14:36:28.347" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28376" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28378" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:44:38.133" Score="2" ViewCount="9825" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plated%20Crusher&quot;&gt;Plated Crusher&lt;/a&gt;, a 7/6 hexproof creature. I control two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dampening%20Pulse&quot;&gt;Dampening Pulse&lt;/a&gt;s, which give opponents' creatures -1/-0. Would Dampening Pulse affect the hexproof creature? I think it would because it's not directly targeting the hexproof creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14669" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-12T21:40:50.963" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T21:40:50.963" Title="Hexproof vs enchantment affecting all creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:22:15.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28376" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:49:00.577" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct--hexproof only prevents spells and abilities which use the &quot;target&quot; keyword. Dampening Pulse does not specify a target, so it will still affect your opponent's creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:49:00.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28376" CreationDate="2016-01-12T20:49:25.303" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Dampening Pulse will affect creatures your opponents control that have Hexproof. The entire relevant part of the definition of Hexproof (&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Hexproof&quot;&gt;rule 702.11b&lt;/a&gt;) is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Hexproof” on a permanent means “This permanent can’t be the target of spells or abilities your opponents control.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Targets&quot;&gt;rule 114.9a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Just because an object or player is being affected by a spell or ability doesn’t make that object or player a target of that spell or ability. &lt;strong&gt;Unless that object or player is identified by the word “target” in the text of that spell or ability, or the rule for that keyword ability, it’s not a target.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dampening Pulse doesn't use the word &quot;target&quot; and it doesn't have any keyword abilities (targeted or otherwise), so Hexproof doesn't affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T20:49:25.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28380" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28381" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:02:40.677" Score="9" ViewCount="4130" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have 2 Super Munchkin or Half Breed (or any equivalent) cards, am I able to use up to 4 races/classes (Or 2 races/classes without any race/class related penalties)? Effectively, do these bonuses stack, or can you only ever have 2 races and 2 classes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T04:13:28.577" Title="Multiple Super Munchkin Cards" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28380" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:34:29.793" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only have two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Super Munchkin says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may have two Class cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Half Breed says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may have two Race cards...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's exactly what you can do: have two. It doesn't matter how many of them you have. All they say you can do is have two. They don't say &quot;one additional&quot; or &quot;twice as many&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T23:34:29.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28347" CreationDate="2016-01-12T23:54:34.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply play a game with a fully open hand.&#xA;All of your car cards, tickets are played face up.&#xA;Pre anounce &amp;amp; explain your every move &amp;amp; intention openly to the novice player.&#xA;This will not only serve as a handicap but will accelerate the rate at wich your novice players become seasoned players.&#xA;This applies to all games you will teach to novices as I have done thousands of times to all ages &amp;amp; level of interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-12T23:54:34.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28384" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:51:48.060" Score="1" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Winds%20of%20Qal%20Sisma&quot;&gt;Winds of Qal Sisma&lt;/a&gt; to prevent damage from a creature, does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Willbreaker&quot;&gt;Willbreaker&lt;/a&gt; trigger and let me gain control of that creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T03:54:49.500" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T03:56:12.743" Title="Can Winds of Qal Sisma trigger Willbreaker's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28383" CreationDate="2016-01-13T03:56:12.743" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Willbreaker triggers specifically when something &quot;...becomes the &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt; of a spell or ability...&quot;. Spells and abilities only target if they say &quot;target&quot; (or if they're an aura being cast). Winds of Qal Sisma doesn't say &quot;target&quot;, it just prevents all combat damage, regardless of where it came from, so Willbreaker never sees anything that'd cause it to trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T03:56:12.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28380" CreationDate="2016-01-13T04:13:28.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Super Munchkin card only allows you to have two Class cards in play;  ... however the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/cards/ultramunchkin/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ultra Munchkin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; card from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/riggeddemo/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin Rigged Demo&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/cwbh/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin 7 - Cheat With Both Hands&lt;/a&gt; sets states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Official Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may have three Class cards, and have all the advantages and disadvantages of each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyELK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CyELK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T04:13:28.577" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28386" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28387" CreationDate="2016-01-13T05:12:42.903" Score="4" ViewCount="2368" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 60s, we played a maze type game that used a round disk that was larger than a carrom that we hit with a cue stick. The game board was square and much larger than a carrom board. The play started on the outer part of the table and progressed around the board, eventually spiraling around to the center. There were wooden barriers that each player had to maneuver around or through and each corner had a small opening that had to be entered. There were numbered, painted areas that each player had to arrive at (in order). The object was to continue around the board while precisely hitting the disk to specific spots on the board and finally ending up in the center of the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone remember a game like this? Preferably with pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14903" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T08:05:03.887" LastActivityDate="2023-04-08T08:07:47.720" Title="Table top maze game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28386" CreationDate="2016-01-13T13:16:17.503" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;After some digging it appears that the game you are looking for is &quot;Castle Dungeon Maze&quot; if you search for it in google it appears as you described however there could be variants of it. Hope this is what you are looking for!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/132183/desperately-seeking-game-1976-1977&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the original forum I found it on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also here is the picture I found:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMoey.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GMoey.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-13T19:57:52.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T19:57:52.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-13T16:35:38.487" Score="2" ViewCount="1657" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Dead of Winter does an exiled player still draw a crossroads card?  Does the player on his right draw a Crossroads card the the exiled player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14910" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:21:14.797" Title="Dead of Winter Exiled Player" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28388" CreationDate="2016-01-13T21:21:14.797" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the exiled player still draws a crossroads card and the player on the right still draws one for him/her. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they can't have any survivors in the colony, they can't vote on any cards that require survivors in the colony. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the designers clarified this in a reddit thread &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/boardgames/comments/2kt5fn/dead_of_winter_question_probably_dumb/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.reddit.com/r/boardgames/comments/2kt5fn/dead_of_winter_question_probably_dumb/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-01-13T21:21:14.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28393" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:31:41.757" Score="10" ViewCount="2159" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/oath-gatewatch-release-notes-2016-01-13&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oath of the Gatewatch release notes&lt;/a&gt; say the following in the section about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stone%20Haven%20Outfitter&quot;&gt;Stone Haven Outfitter&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this context, “equipped creatures you control” and “equipped creature you control” refer to any creatures you control with Equipment attached to them. &lt;strong&gt;In the highly unusual case that Stone Haven Outfitter becomes an Equipment, the meaning of its abilities doesn’t change.&lt;/strong&gt; The bonuses continue to refer to any equipped creature you control. They aren’t bonuses applied solely to the creature Stone Haven Outfitter is attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am trying to determine whether the highlighted case is at all possible. I know that I can turn non-Creature, non-Equipment Artifacts into Equipments with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bludgeon%20Brawl&quot;&gt;Bludgeon Brawl&lt;/a&gt;, and that I can turn non-Artifact permanents into Artifacts with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;. So, for that highlighted case to be relevant, the only requirement is for Stone Haven Outfitters to become a non-Creature permanent. Is there any way to do that with currently existing cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, is there any way for a non-Creature permanent to gain Stone Haven Outfitter's abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T09:24:55.833" Title="Is it possible for a Creature permanent to become a non-Creature permanent without losing its abliities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28425" CreationDate="2016-01-14T00:59:26.333" Score="8" ViewCount="834" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the following board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . a . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . b . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . c . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, white territory is rather large. So I like to decrease it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, I have the following problems/questions/considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I will lose every KO battles elsewhere on the board (I have around 70 points hanging that I will win, but my opponent can play 5-10 stones that I must react at.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I can invade both a, b and c. Does invading at a make b impossible? Is b even possible? Is c even possible?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many points should I estimate for a invasion at a, b and/or c?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Should I start this invasion as soon as possible or delay it?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14916" LastEditorUserId="14916" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T10:57:56.353" LastActivityDate="2018-12-16T23:53:44.117" Title="How do I chose invasion or reduction points?" Tags="|go|invasion|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28390" CreationDate="2016-01-14T04:41:22.867" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think this is the highly unusual case they talk about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBludgeon%20Brawl%5d&quot;&gt;Bludgeon Brawl&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDominating%20Licid%5d&quot;&gt;Dominating Licid&lt;/a&gt; (or any other Licid) and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStone%20Haven%20Outfitter%5d&quot;&gt;Stone Haven Outfitter&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far every permanent is just as they are printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Activate the Licid targeting a creature. Respond by casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirrorweave%5d&quot;&gt;Mirrorweave&lt;/a&gt; on the Outfitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Mirrorweave is resolved the Licid is an exact copy of a printed Outfitter. So it loses the &amp;quot;You control enchanted creature.&amp;quot; ability too here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Licid's activated ability is resolved it becomes an Enchantment - Aura and stops being a creature and it becomes attached to the creature. It still has all abilities of the Outfitter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMycosynth%20Lattice%5d&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Licid becomes an Artifact in addition to it other types. Bludgeon Brawl therefore makes it an Equipment with Equip 2 and &amp;quot;Equipped creature gets +2/+0&amp;quot;, based on it having CMC 2 from being a copy of Outfitter. It retains its other abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Licid is now considered as both equipping as enchanting the creature it's attached to because all that matters for being equipped/enchanted is that it is attached and is an Equipment/Aura.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The enchanted/equipped creature will have +2/+0 because of the Brawl and +1/+1 for each Outfitter you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Licid's typeline and textbox will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantment Artifact - Aura Equipment&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant creature&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Equip 2&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Equipped creature gets +2/+0.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Equipped creatures you control get +1/+1.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Whenever an equipped creature you control dies, draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T09:24:55.833" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-01-14T08:54:51.790" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many question in one post ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An invasion on a should work, because the corner is not yet 100% secure. White will probably build up strength to the outside leaving no potential on b. White will probably get the initiative afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An invasion on c looks very big, probably bigger than the corner invasion because of the two white stones to be captured. Maybe c is not the correct point to start the attack because a capping move by white (on the point left to c in the diagram) is a strong response, but the region is certainly interesting&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An invasion on b is probably not feasible, but it can act as a question move which side white wants to defend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T09:07:52.873" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T09:07:52.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28397" CreationDate="2016-01-14T09:57:30.710" Score="2" ViewCount="5382" Body="&lt;p&gt;Which cards am I allowed to discard in order to gain money in &lt;em&gt;Seven Wonders Duel&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A card I already acquired and placed in my home?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A free unclaimed card from the board (a card a player could otherwise get paying its costs)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, discarding is an alternative to get a card from the table on one player's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14921" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T11:37:01.647" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T19:01:13.953" Title="Discard a card to gain money" Tags="|7-wonders-duel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28396" CreationDate="2016-01-14T10:44:41.093" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, thats incorrect, you can not chose to avoid taking a card from the structure and discarding a card from your board for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state under Game Turn :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;On your turn, you must choose an “accessible” card in&#xA;  the card structure and play it. An accessible card is a card which&#xA;  isn’t partially covered by other cards.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note it says the structure, not anything in your play area.  'Structure' being the term for how cards are laid out each age. You then have a choice with the card you selected to build it, discard it for money, or construct a wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question, the only card you may discard for money is the one you took from the structure that turn and no other.  You do not pay any costs associated with building a card if you are just taking it to discard for money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="13753" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T19:01:13.953" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T19:01:13.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28399" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:42:16.533" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T11:42:16.533" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T11:42:16.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28400" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:42:16.533" Score="0" Body="&quot;7 Wonders: Duel&quot; (2015) is a two-player board game from Antoine Bauza and Bruno Cathala" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T16:22:43.790" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T16:22:43.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28402" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:43:49.597" Score="4" ViewCount="424" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have original Pandemic in my local language (Greek).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to buy Pandemic on the Brink but i cant find it in Greek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't mind having mixed languages, but is there any other kind of problem that prevent me from having Brink in different language?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14897" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T12:03:39.760" Title="Pandemic on the Brink expansion in different language than the main game" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28401" CreationDate="2016-01-14T11:55:41.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If all the players know the expansion language well, there will be no problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise you may need a reference, paste-ups, or some other solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There should be no gameplay differences* between versions in different languages, if that's your concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*barring translation errors&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T12:03:39.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T12:03:39.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28404" CreationDate="2016-01-14T14:55:36.913" Score="4" ViewCount="882" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just played my second game of 7 Wonders, after I impulse purchased it along with the Cities Expansion. As we play in a group of four, its not uncommon that two grab Peace Tokens during the same Age, resulting in only two people at the end to fight the war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in this situation? Does the war happen twice (IE loser gains two losses and the victor gains two wins)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14926" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:23:17.757" Title="7 Wonders (Cities Expansion): War from both sides due to Peace Tokens" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28403" CreationDate="2016-01-14T15:23:17.757" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once only. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions?lq=1&quot;&gt;cities rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, p. 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are ever only 2 players left during a conflict resolution, they only face each other once and each take a single token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T15:23:17.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28406" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:10:16.740" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a theory/decktech question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say you're playing 4 color burn (R,W,B,G) and your opponent is running something with spikey lifegain (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feed%20the%20Clan&quot;&gt;Feed the Clan&lt;/a&gt; and a few &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;s for example), so each game gets dragged out longer than a burn deck would prefer. Would keeping &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Confidant&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt; in hand and dropping him to help boost card drawing late in the game be a viable strategy?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets assume you have sideboarded out Eidolon of ??? for Confidant and you also have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullcrack&quot;&gt;Skullcrack&lt;/a&gt; to prevent lifegain. Let us also assume you've never heard of Leyline of ???. Finally, in keeping with our spikey lifegain example, our opponent is playing Junk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14930" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2023-01-27T05:57:22.943" LastActivityDate="2023-02-07T10:30:37.103" Title="4 Color Burn + Dark Confidant decktech" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28405" CreationDate="2016-01-14T19:42:16.247" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like Modern. I'm also assuming that you are referring to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eidolon%20of%20the%20Great%20Revel&quot;&gt;Eidolon of the Great Revel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dark%20Confidant&quot;&gt;Dark Confidant&lt;/a&gt; is worth the life loss when playing the more aggressive strategy. Burn is a very aggressive strategy, so typically your opponent will win by stalling out the game, establishing a resource advantage, and then grinding you into dust.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dark Confidant lets you trade Life Points (a resource worth relatively less to you as the aggressor) for cards in hand, which you need to counteract your opponent's (usually) more individually powerful cards. In order for your strategy to overcome his, you have to push through enough damage to kill him before he stabilizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, since you are trying to spend cards to directly attack his life total, his lifegain spells are in the rare position of actually being worthwhile. It is rarely worthwhile to spend a card to only gain life, but in this situation, his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feed%20The%20Clan&quot;&gt;Feed The Clan&lt;/a&gt; is worth more than three of your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Disclaimer: Without a decklist to reference, I cannot give any definitive answers. Only you can know for certain if the life-loss from Confidant would tend to cost you more than you can afford to lose against a given deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T19:42:16.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28347" CreationDate="2016-01-14T20:07:01.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for a subtle personal handicap that will enforce a minor disadvantage while still allowing you to play &quot;intelligently,&quot; I've had luck with enforcing my own rules regarding the use of route cards. Any or all of the following have proven effective:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not draw route cards unless all previous routes are complete.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do not keep more than two (at setup) or one (during subsequent draws) route cards from your drawn hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never take a &quot;long route&quot; (&lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; only take route cards below a certain point value)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't build connections that will not be a part of your routes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13572" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T20:07:01.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28408" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:14:31.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Terror in Meeple City&lt;/em&gt; is a monster game formerly called &quot;Rampage&quot; where players compete to cause the most destruction in the city. It was first published in 2013 by Repos Production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:23:00.717" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:23:00.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28409" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:14:31.647" Score="0" Body="A monster game formerly called &quot;Rampage&quot; where players compete to cause the most destruction in the city." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:01.457" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:01.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28410" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:17:17.380" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tarot&lt;/em&gt; is a deck of playing cards (typically 78), which can be used for a variety of card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:11.743" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:11.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28411" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:17:17.380" Score="0" Body="A deck of playing cards (typically 78), which can be used for a variety of card games." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:21:24.990" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:21:24.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28412" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:20:39.813" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Patchwork&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player tile placement game where players compete to create the most aesthetic and high-scoring patchwork quilt. The English version was first published in 2014 by Mayfair Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:21:55.470" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:21:55.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28413" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:20:39.813" Score="0" Body="A two-player tile placement game where players compete to create the most aesthetic and high-scoring patchwork quilt." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:21:32.063" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:21:32.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28414" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:26:36.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;GIPF&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player abstract game based around the idea of modular expansions called &quot;potentials&quot; that can modify gameplay. It was first released in 1996 by Schmidt Spiele.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:21:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:21:50.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28415" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:26:36.393" Score="0" Body="A two-player abstract game based around the idea of modular expansions called &quot;potentials&quot; that can modify gameplay." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:21:36.730" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:21:36.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28416" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:29:37.810" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fortune and Glory: The Cliffhanger Game&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative or competitive game set in the 1930s in which heroes work together to retrieve ancient artifacts. It was first published in 2011 by Flying Frog Productions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:43.263" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:43.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28417" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:29:37.810" Score="0" Body="A cooperative or competitive game set in the 1930s in which heroes work together to retrieve ancient artifacts." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:19.973" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:19.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28418" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:37:51.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bismarck&lt;/em&gt; is an Avalon Hill miniatures game where the British player attempts to sink the German Bismarck. It was first released in 1962.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:23:15.840" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:23:15.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28419" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:37:51.520" Score="0" Body="An Avalon Hill miniatures game where the British player attempts to sink the German Bismarck." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:52.093" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:52.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28420" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:39:32.467" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Churchill&lt;/em&gt; is a political game in which players take the roles of Churchill, Roosevelt, or Stalin to determine who will control the Allied forces and how. It was first published in 2015 by GMT Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:21:46.013" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:21:46.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28421" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:39:32.467" Score="0" Body="A political game in which players take the roles of Churchill, Roosevelt, or Stalin to determine who will control the Allied forces and how." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:23.753" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:23.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28422" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:41:11.730" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Doctor Who: The Card Game&lt;/em&gt; is a card game in which players defend locations with the Doctor and his companions while sending enemies to opposing locations. It was first published in 2012 by Cubicle 7 Entertainment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:23:10.220" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:23:10.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28423" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-14T21:41:11.730" Score="0" Body="A card game in which players defend locations with the Doctor and his companions while sending enemies to opposing locations." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-14T22:22:36.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-14T22:22:36.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27652" CreationDate="2016-01-15T00:04:15.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is actually a variation on the Game Theory problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volunteer%27s_dilemma&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Volunteer's Dilemma&lt;/a&gt;. Essentially, there is a cost to you calling cheat (The chance of being wrong and taking cards), and a benefit to all for you doing it (Stopping an opponent). There are a lot of different possible equilibria, but if every player acts the same, then the only equilibrium (state where nobody can do better by changing strategies) is when each player calls cheat some percentage of the time, where the percentage is based on the number of players and the costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two take-aways... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why this helps us&lt;/strong&gt;. Mathematically, as the number of people increases, the optimal amount of time they volunteer decreases. In&#xA;fact, when the number of people approaches infinity, the chance of&#xA;any person at all calling goes to 0. So basically, the more people&#xA;you are playing with, the less often you should call, but there is&#xA;still such a thing as not calling often enough.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why it's different&lt;/strong&gt;. In Cheat, unlike a vanilla Volunteer's Dilemma, everybody has different costs. These are roughly based on&#xA;how many cards you have, and how likely you think the other player is&#xA;cheating. Even so, there is a mixed strategy equilibrium that&#xA;involves you calling cheat sometimes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T00:04:15.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-01-15T02:24:39.713" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, count the current score. &lt;strong&gt;If you're winning, do not invade&lt;/strong&gt;. Just make sure you keep white small enough that you still win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let use further presume that black would be losing. You counted, so you know by how many points. A move around c could be parried with a sacrifice of two white stones while sealing off the rest of the upper right corner completely. So, if you're only behind a bit, you should probably play around c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you need to invade deeply, you probably made a mistake earlier - why do you need to invade that late, after leaving such a large area for the opponent? Try to find a better invasion or reduction time when you review the game, and look out for similar situations in the future. Good invasion and reduction timing is very important, and you'll soon learn to avoid trouble like this beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But maybe you could not prevent it (or made a honest mistake), and arrive at the current board, far behind. You need to invade deeply. You also already identified a few usual spots at a and b, but there are many more to consider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When invading against &lt;em&gt;that many&lt;/em&gt; opponent stones, you cannot expect a good result. Considering it's roughly 10 vs 1, even living small in ko should be considered a success. That black always ends in gote is understood. I'm aware that, especially for weaker players, it may sometimes seems more like a gamble, but don't worry about that. We'll try to find a few useful ideas how to deal with this. This is actually a very, very broad topic and I'll try to stick to the most important things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In advance, I apologize to the reader if the following is too short an explanation. I'm writing this mainly for players in the 4 kyu to 12 kyu range, as that's where these problems typically become most prevalent, though weaker players may hopefully be able to profit from it, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Direct invasion at 3-3&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black invades at a, I would definitely want to kill it as white:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ -----------------------+&#xA;$$  . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  O . . . . . 8 6 . 5 . |&#xA;$$  O . X . . O . 7 1 . . |&#xA;$$  . X . . . . . O 2 3 . |&#xA;$$  O O O . . . . . . 4 . |&#xA;$$  X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$  . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A useful technique can also be black 4 in the following diagram, which kind-of-reverts to the above. You may want to remember this move, for if applied at the right time, it can throw off an unaware opponent completely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ -----------------------+&#xA;$$  . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  O . X . . O . 2 1 . . |&#xA;$$  . X . . . . . O 3 . . |&#xA;$$  O O O . . . . . 5 4 . |&#xA;$$  X X O O . O . . . 6 . |&#xA;$$  . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$  . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should consider other points for invasion, too. I'm sorry that I won't show many variations, for that would inflate this post too much. Please research them on your own - it will be worthwhile, as these will surely come up in your games sooner or later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Attaching the corner&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a variant that is usually played as a regular joseki, however, it is unlikely that a joseki would develop on this board - white has too many stones that allow her to deviate for a better result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it is not all moot yet. Its basic idea is: &lt;strong&gt;When you're weak, you want to touch the opponent and force him to either draw back strongly (white grants you additional stones in the area for almost free), or touch back (typically with a hane), which often leads to cuts in their shape that you can try to use to force an exchange.&lt;/strong&gt; This is actually an extremely important idea to keep in mind in such situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please research the (too) many possible variations on your own. Joseki books should give a good points which moves are important, but remember that white is free to deviate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Submarine, straight below hoshi&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . a . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O b 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . c . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a rather common joseki move, too, though again, everything is different on this board. White usually replies at a, b or c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white protects the corner with 2, black would surely extend to somewhere around 3, and hope for living or connecting somehow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . b . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 2 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . a . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O d . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white bumps down at 2, black can decide between a and b, which are probably miai. If black a and white b, black would again play at or around d next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . b . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . a . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . 2 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the strongest moves is this white 2. Note that if black a, white b, and black has extremely poor eye shape, which is not acceptable on this board. So black must play at b next, and the corner becomes a tsumego, of which I don't know the resu..--- eh, I mean, which I assign to you as homework.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Submarine, low keima from the hoshi&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O a b . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . c 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is another usual point, and white can reply at a, b, c, or possible elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nobi defense at 2 would revert to a similar situation as before, and black would look forward to play at or around 3 next. Life is not guaranteed here, though. It seems the 1-2 exchange benefits white more than black, because it removes a lot of options in and nearby the corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 3 2 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . a 1 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tsuke tobi at 2 is unlikely on this board as it seems to give black too much wiggle room: Refer to the joseki after the moves 1-2-3-a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ -----------------------+&#xA;$$  . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  O . X . . O . . 4 6 . |&#xA;$$  . X . . . . . O 3 2 . |&#xA;$$  O O O . . . . . 5 1 . |&#xA;$$  X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . . . . . . O 7 . . |&#xA;$$  . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$  . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White would never play atari from the inside at 4, as then black could play 5 in sente and extend to 6, which is too good for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Low keima approch&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You suggested a regular low approach. White would probably defend the corner solidly, or kick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O a b . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O c . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . f d e . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white defends the corner at a or b, black would probably move back to play c and hope for a double hane (c-d-e) (or possibly crosscut with c-d-f) and good exchange. As a and c are miai, if white blocks at c, black would play at a (or possibly 3-3) next, and hope to live locally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . 3 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 4 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white kicks, black cannot afford the usual move at 3, because white would immediately come back and play 4, after which black is heavy. Note that the 3-3 offers a lot of aji, but here white is so strong that even that won't suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . 4 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . 2 3 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . a 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 5 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black would instead hane at 3, after which white would surely play 4 (alternatively, white a may be interesting and not expected by any opponent). Black would then attach back at 5, and it would not be easy for white to capture the whole group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Various exchange offers&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . a b . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . c d . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moves around a to d give white the option to seal off the corner, while black captures 2 white stones. If this is acceptable for either player, and which of the moves is best, requires just a lot of normal, boring reading and counting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Hybrid approach&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you remember the attachment idea from above, you may think about this move:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . a c . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . b d . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white draws back solidly (at a or b), black got an almost free stone, which will help him live locally. This is too soft in this case, so white would surely hane at c or d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . 2 4 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . 5 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . 7 . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A very, very simple sequence could be black drawing back, then white just protecting the corner. Note that this would be better than black 3, white 1, which we considered earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . 2 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . 4 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white pushes above at 4, black will definitely hane at 5 and try to live locally. This is dangerous for white, as she risks a lot more points if black lives (and he likely will, as white must spend another stone below 4 to connect her two stones and prevent black from moving in that outwards direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . 3 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Black may also entertain the idea of counter hane, which may reasonable, as he's not much weaker than white on the right side - the two white stones are weak! The counter hane is a bit complicated, and will lead to an exchange, the quality of which depends on the players' fighting abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . b . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . a 2 c . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white outside-hanes at 2, black can think about a, b or c, which again depend on the players' fighting abilities. Black has several thinkable continuations here, because white's two stones are not strong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . c . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . 3 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . b a . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black crosscuts, white's primary options seem to be drawing back at a, which increases liberties and also enables black 1 to be caught with c, so black is under some pressure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . d O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O b 3 2 a . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . c 4 e . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white ataris at 4, black would not counter hane at a, because if he wanted to do that, he should play a directly instead of 3. So black will move out at b, and white can continue with c, d or e, depending on her reading of the variations. White is in control of the direction more than black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . a 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . c 2 b . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black pulls back at 3, the obvious replies are a, b or c. White a would be followed by black b, which seems to let b live or connect out eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . 8 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . 6 7 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O d 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . 9 . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . e 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . a 2 4 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to white 4 or a, black would probably slide towards the corner at 5, and push for eye space with the sequence to 9. Considering d (and likely e, too) is sente, black may live there - if he believes he would not, he should chose different moves earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . b . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . a 2 3 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The counter hane at 3 would likely be followed by white a or b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . c . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . 4 2 3 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . d 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . a . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O b . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magari at 4 invites black 5, which connects out or likely captures the two white stones with a, if white resists with the descend at b. Black can also consider playing c instead of 5 first, after which white would atari, black connect, white extend, and finally black d to connect out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . 4 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 1 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . a 2 3 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . 6 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White 4 is a strong reply to 3, and up to 6, black is in danger. Black would look for an exchange, using aji such as the cut at a.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . 4 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . 2 O a . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O X X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . O X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if white replies to black's clamp at 1 with 2, black would play tsuke at 3 (instead of just a) to increase his options, and white becomes quite busy. Black should be able to live somewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that black should not just play 1 at a, for white would then play 1 and black would be short of eye space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . 5 O 2 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O X X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . O X . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . O 3 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . 4 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white just cuts down at 2, black would white cut at 5, possibly exchanging 3 to 4 first. Black is still looking for an exchange, and the several sente moves he gains while white is trying to live the 2 stones should be sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T09:54:33.513" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T09:54:33.513" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28370" CreationDate="2016-01-15T02:44:02.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;CR 603.1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crush of Tentacles doesn't say “when,” “whenever,” or “at,” it says &quot;if&quot;. Thus it can't have a trigger. Consequentially it must do it's thing when it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T02:44:02.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23318" CreationDate="2016-01-15T04:57:11.130" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is important to study effectively for the L1 exam. Remember that the L1 exam is just the first step into the judge program and isn't intended to be too gruelling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IPG isn't part of the L1 test at all. The L1 test only uses the JAR (Judging at Regualar REL) for it's questions where the players have done something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When studying the CR (Comprehensive Rules) focus on just the following topics: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parts of the turn and the things that happen in each of them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How spells and abilities are played&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How they resolve&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How the layers interact&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What Two-Headed Giant is (really just read the 2HG FAQ).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of quick skims of the MTR are likely to be enough for the few questions that might be based on it. There will be a few things in there that might surprise you, those are the bits to remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most usefully log onto the Judge Center (judge.wizards.com) and do some practice tests. Easy Practice tests are a good gauge of how hard the L1 test is and the fully explained answers will help you understand what you didn't understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other thing that must be done is you need to judge a few events, preferably with the Level 2 judge that will be testing you. Judging a couple of events is required before you can be certified as a Level 1 judge. Remember you don't need to be certified to judge events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastEditorUserId="7491" LastEditDate="2017-04-24T06:04:20.720" LastActivityDate="2017-04-24T06:04:20.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28428" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28454" CreationDate="2016-01-15T08:05:52.467" Score="7" ViewCount="633" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Ill-Gotten Gains in Dominion Hinterland to be such a clogger, with all the curses and coppers it generates. How can I beat a player who keep getting the Ill-Gotten Gains when there are no trashing cards available? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ehOxy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ehOxy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Ill-Gotten Gains card image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T06:37:42.277" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T10:06:31.157" Title="How to beat Ill-Gotten Gains?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-hinterlands|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28430" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T12:06:40.183" Score="6" ViewCount="1712" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Texas Holdem, Is it possible to have a full house and straight flush in same hand with only two players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14936" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-01-17T07:13:04.577" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T14:45:40.120" Title="Is it possible to have a full house and straight flush in same hand with only two players?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28430" CreationDate="2016-01-15T12:18:11.707" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certainly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 : 5♥ 6♥&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 : 8♣ 9♣&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Community cards: 7♥ 8♥ 9♥ 8♦ 9♦&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player one has 5♥ 6♥ 7♥ 8♥ 9♥&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player two has 8♣ 8♥ 9♣ 9♥ 9♦&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14938" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-02-17T14:45:40.120" LastActivityDate="2022-02-17T14:45:40.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28432" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T12:55:50.603" Score="4" ViewCount="568" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it legal for declarer to look at his/her last card played after the cards from that round are all face down? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14939" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T01:57:52.410" Title="Looking at your the last card played" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28432" CreationDate="2016-01-15T13:48:11.587" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, as noted in &lt;strong&gt;Law 66 B&lt;/strong&gt; of &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.acbl.org/documentLibrary/play/Laws-of-Duplicate-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Rules of Duplicate Bridge&lt;/a&gt;, with a certain restriction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Own Last Card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until a card is led to the next trick, declarer or either&#xA;defender may inspect, but not expose, his own last&#xA;card played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the collection of tricks is mechanically different under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.acbl.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Laws-of-Rubber-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laws of Rubber Bridge&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Law 66 - Inspection of Tricks&lt;/strong&gt; is similarly a bit different:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 66 – Inspection of Tricks&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer or either defender may, until a member of&#xA;his side has led or played to the following trick, inspect&#xA;a trick and inquire what card each player has played to&#xA;it. Thereafter, until play ceases, quitted tricks may be inspected&#xA;only to account for a missing or surplus card. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T01:57:52.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25399" CreationDate="2016-01-15T14:13:43.593" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found this summary helpful:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/661014/quick-and-basic-rules-get-you-playing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/661014/quick-and-basic-rules-get-you-playing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14941" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T14:13:43.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:21:29.243" Score="1" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I manage a scrabble group online, the ELO is set by Mattel but that is not a handicap just a grading Mattel gives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my group we run a weekly League , Monthly Lottery type game (who you play is based on numbers drawn) Tournaments for three different sections of the group and numerous friendlies. The group is holding at 80 members with ELO from 950 up to 2200. To make it fair and so that the big ELO are not always smashing the little players I have tried to devise a handicap based on the ELO but its causing problems because the bigger end are now losing games because of the handicap but are still winning the Mattel game which is increasing the ELO further. I attach what I have tried to use but can anyone suggest a tweak of the upper levels that are fair to the player but still give the little man a chance to win?. Thank you &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNG5R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gNG5R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14942" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T19:02:50.467" Title="Online Scrabble Handicaps" Tags="|handicap|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28430" CreationDate="2016-01-15T16:51:04.630" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. I've done it for real at the casino. Made a big score!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The final straight flush: &lt;strong&gt;K,Q,J,T,9&lt;/strong&gt;, all one suit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I had an Ace Ten off, the Ten made the straight flush.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another player held pocket pair of Kings to make a &lt;strong&gt;K,K,K,J,J&lt;/strong&gt; full house.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board ends up &lt;strong&gt;K,J,J,Q,9&lt;/strong&gt; where 4 cards matched the suit of my 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14944" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2018-02-23T06:43:00.257" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T06:43:00.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-01-15T18:18:04.883" Score="5" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . a . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . c . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b looks good as a probe, it makes miai of following up with either a or c. Note the symetry in white's shape.&#xA;Below a possible follow up. After black 7, a and b are miai. White needs to be careful as there's still a weakness at c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . c . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 4 b . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . 6 3 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . a 7 . 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If white blocks on the other side, a san-san invasion becomes possible with the help of the R14 stone. Black gets a smaller territory than in the previous diagram, but still has options around R10 for later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . 8 7 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . 6 3 9 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 4 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The attachment at R16 is usually a good stabilization move, but doesn't work so well here because of the surrounding white stones. The black shape is left without eyes even if Q16 gets captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . . . . 8 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . . 4 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 3 6 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . 7 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 2 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Starting at the san-san is another interesting idea. White might kill the corner, as explained in mafu's answer, but the aji of the cut at a will force white to pull back after black 9. To avoid this, white can choose to let the corner live small. If white starts a ko, then black will have ko threats around Q11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O . . . . . 8 6 . 5 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . O O . X . . O . 7 1 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . , . . . . . X . . . . . O 2 3 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . O O O . . . . . a 4 . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . X X O O . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . O 9 . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . X X . O . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X . O O . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . X X X X . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether you start with R14 or R17, the key idea is to use that first stone as a probe and be ready to abandon it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T16:21:31.307" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T16:21:31.307" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24410" CreationDate="2016-01-15T19:04:31.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to this, in Space Fluxx, there are two Keepers that can kill any kind of creeper, and two Keepers that can remove a single type of Creeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, all of them start the kill description with &quot;Once per turn&quot;.  So, these are specifically kept at this level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14947" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T19:04:31.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28440" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:18:52.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shelem&lt;/em&gt; is an Iranian trick-taking card game played with two sets of two partners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T03:50:14.500" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T03:50:14.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28441" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:18:52.050" Score="0" Body="An Iranian trick-taking card game played with two sets of two partners." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T03:50:17.477" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T03:50:17.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28442" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:21:31.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nuts!&lt;/em&gt; is a card game in which players are squirrels competing to gather the most nuts. It was first published in 2011 by WildFire LLC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T01:51:23.920" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T01:51:23.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28443" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:21:31.970" Score="0" Body="A card game in which players are squirrels competing to gather the most nuts." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T01:51:05.240" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T01:51:05.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28444" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:28:12.483" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadowrun: Crossfire – High Caliber Ops&lt;/em&gt; is an expansion to &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/shadowrun-crossfire&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;shadowrun-crossfire&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;shadowrun-crossfire&lt;/a&gt; adding new cards, karma upgrades, and missions. It was first released in 2015 by Catalyst Game Labs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T03:50:07.543" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T03:50:07.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28445" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-15T22:28:12.483" Score="0" Body="An expansion to Shadowrun: Crossfire adding new cards, karma upgrades, and missions." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T03:49:55.357" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T03:49:55.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28428" CreationDate="2016-01-15T23:45:43.873" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The major thing to understand about heavy ill-gotten gains strategies is that they rapidly deplete &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; piles: both ill-gotten gains itself and the curse pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that ill-gotten gains games tend to end based on a third pile running out rather than the province pile depleting, and so you need to adjust your strategy to compensate -- notably it makes duchies a lot more attractive, and all the extra junk in your deck makes the free copper you get from running ill-gotten gains' effect more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while this obviously varies from game to game, barring some more effective game specific strategy my usual answer is to take ill-gotten gains and duchies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-15T23:45:43.873" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6863" CreationDate="2016-01-16T00:18:08.917" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many strategies get better or worse in Two Headed Giant. These are the same as what changes in regular sealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much better:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Alternate win conditions&lt;/strong&gt; are typically stronger as their thresholds don't change with the number of players. Making one player run out of cards in their library will cause the team to lose. Similarly having one player win the game, say with &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401878&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt;, will cause the team to win.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Poison used to be a very strong strategy, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.gg/events&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Sliver Kids wining the PT&lt;/a&gt;, but that is no longer true. Previously just one player had to be dealt 10 poison for the team to lose, a rules update has changed it to the team receiving 15 poison.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Each Opponent&lt;/strong&gt; effects are much stronger as well. &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389541&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gray Merchant of Asphodel&lt;/a&gt; is the poster child for this type of card. Already strong in regular sealed and draft, the card is very overpowered in every format with more than two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Much worse:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Aggressive Creatures&lt;/strong&gt; are not nearly as important in Two Headed Giant as in other formats. The increased options for an opponent to block back them much decreases value in attempting to overrun an opponent early. As does the 30 life that needs to be dealt with, it's very hard to build two decks to deal 15 damage each before the opponents can stabilise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How things change completely:&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Colour Choice&lt;/strong&gt;. In Two Headed Giant it is likely that a team will play all 5 colours. At the minimum you'll be playing 4 colours, splashing the 5th in one of the decks is very easy. In original Ravnica block I won a 2HG draft where we played 7 colours. This means you don't want worry about what decks you are playing too early. Just take the best cards for the first 2 or 3 packs, then start to worry about filling out good curves and making decks in the second half of the draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-18T15:00:17.923" LastActivityDate="2022-07-18T15:00:17.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28448" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T04:17:55.683" Score="4" ViewCount="768" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we are playing catan and the robber is on an 8 and an 8 is rolled, but someone plays a knight card and the robber is moved..... Can that player then collect resources because the 8 was opened on the same turn and is no longer blocked? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14955" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T05:32:27.623" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T16:12:38.500" Title="Can you collect resources from a roll if you move the robber after rolling?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28448" CreationDate="2016-01-16T04:29:47.467" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the time you roll, it's too late. You can play the card &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; rolling, in order to move the robber and hope for the best. But when you roll the die, you immediately dole out the appropriate resources, so if the robber is still there, you don't get anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T04:29:47.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28451" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28463" CreationDate="2016-01-16T05:38:03.537" Score="4" ViewCount="13088" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard of the Black Lotus and Dual Lands. Are there any other really expensive cards in Magic: The Gathering?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14954" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-05-16T01:09:03.257" LastActivityDate="2017-05-16T01:09:03.257" Title="What are the most expensive cards in Magic: The Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|pricing|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28451" CreationDate="2016-01-16T06:24:32.663" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's one possibility for what you're looking for: &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.tcgplayer.com/magic/product/show?Price_Condition=Greater%20Than&amp;amp;Price=200&amp;amp;Type=Cards&quot;&gt;a search for all of the cards that TCGPlayer.com sells (directly or as a middleman) for at least $200&lt;/a&gt;. At this time, it lists 64 cards in that range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T06:24:32.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28428" CreationDate="2016-01-16T12:35:48.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure which Dominion expansions are you running, but there are several cards that can counter this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have prosperity, you can add the Watchtower to the kingdom cards which blocks curses gained in this manner, priced at only 3$. With Masquerade from Intrigue, or Ambassador from Seaside you can give those curses back to your opponent. Dark Ages has several cards which work with trashing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you put a more valuable 5$ card you can rush that instead of going for IGG. Embargo from Seaside also works wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the other poster states, if there is no counter focus on going for duchies as well as any other victory cards placed in the kingdom set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/02/06/hinterlands-ill-gotten-gains/&quot;&gt;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/02/06/hinterlands-ill-gotten-gains/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastActivityDate="2016-01-16T12:35:48.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T15:41:10.610" Score="0" ViewCount="615" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got Bang The Bullet special edition. Unfortunately I did not realise that this edition does not have the bullets that represent life for each character and I really like that specific mechanic. Other than using some other kind of thing to represent the life. Does anyone know of a place that I can get some spare parts?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14961" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-01-16T16:50:51.297" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:47:35.937" Title="Bang! replacement parts" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-16T17:18:06.993" Score="1" ViewCount="3895" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the options for creating a game board (like Monopoly) where the pawns hold on to it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You know the situation... one player pushes the board by mistake and all items fall over. I'd like to avoid this in my game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm designing my own custom board game, of which I will produce just 1 item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a child I had a wooden travel chess, and the pawns had a magnet glued at the bottom. I don't know how the wood was made magnetic, there was nothing visible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I plan to get my board printed on foldable carton by a specialized custom board game printing service. But if it's a better solution then I can also have just the design printed by a local print shop, and fabricate the carton myself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The side on the pawns is clear, I'll glue magnets at the bottom (or magnetic stripes from tape). That's doable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I don't know yet is the counter part on or under the board.&#xA;The options I've figured out so far are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;magnetic paint, magnetic paint spray&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's actually paint with metallic particles, to attract the magnets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reviews I have read about these products are bad. The magnetic force is very weak. The products are expensive. And I don't plan to glue the board myself, so I can't apply the paint directly under the design but above the carton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;galvanized steel under the carton board&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it work to glue something like this &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B014X6WGZI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.amazon.com/dp/B014X6WGZI?psc=1&lt;/a&gt; under the carton, would that be attractive enough for the magnets through the carton?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or should I use hinges to combine 2 plates (foldable), and use it as the base, and glue the design on top directly, no carton?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any theoretical and practical (from-experience) answers much appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14962" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:21:51.987" Title="DIY magnetic game board" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28462" CreationDate="2016-01-17T02:03:38.957" Score="2" ViewCount="2746" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just opened my new Enchanted Echo starter deck and found two fairy energy cards bent in the box! These cards are completely unusable and buying this deck was primarily for getting the fairy energy cards! Im outraged! Is there any way that I can contact the Pokemon Trading Card company and file a formal complaint and maybe try for a refund, or do I need to talk to the store I bought it from? The cards were bent in the unopened packaging, so this is a defect. I can't find any information on the Pokemon Trading Card company though! Does anyone know where I should file my complaint?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dro4N.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/dro4N.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLwXr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KLwXr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14967" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T03:35:42.983" Title="Brand new Pokemon Cards bent in packaging!" Tags="|playing-cards|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28456" CreationDate="2016-01-17T02:31:41.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for bullets to represent life, look into purchasing snap caps or plastic dummy rounds. These products are normally used for safe handgun dry fire training.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a gun show near you, you can likely get a pack of 20 for 15 dollars. Or try &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_n_condition-type_1?fst=as%3Aoff&amp;amp;rh=n%3A3375251%2Ck%3Asafety%20training%20ammo%2Cp_n_condition-type%3A6503254011&amp;amp;keywords=safety%20training%20ammo&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1452997638&amp;amp;rnid=6503252011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;e-commerce.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T02:31:41.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28462" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28460" CreationDate="2016-01-17T03:35:42.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://support.pokemon.com/ics/support/default.asp?deptID=15227&amp;amp;redirect=true&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pokemon.com FAQ&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;My cards were ruined, can you replace them?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Company policy dictates that we only replace products damaged through manufacturer error. In addition, we do not keep inventory of individual cards here, and are unable to offer 'card for card' replacements. We recommend that you try to return your purchase to the retailer if your cards are damaged for any reason other than manufacturing error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel your cards were damaged or altered due to a manufacturing error please scan each card in question front and back and send in a ticket to prodhelp@pokemon.com with your first and last name, your proof of purchase, your date of birth, and address.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T03:35:42.983" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28451" CreationDate="2016-01-17T08:10:13.937" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would probably be many cards from the very beginning of MTG. It was a special time in MTG. R&amp;amp;D was virtually non existent and there is a lot of cards that would never again see the light of day because of there ridiculous over powered nature. There is also the issue of the reserved list that ensures many of these cards scarcity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Star City Games prices are anything to go by here is a rough top ten. For arguments sake I use the Near Mint prices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15246&quot;&gt;Alpha Mana Vualt&lt;/a&gt; - 800$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15444&quot;&gt;Alpha Shivan Dragon&lt;/a&gt; - 1000$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=14823&quot;&gt;Alpha Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; - 1000$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15514&quot;&gt;Alpha Time Vault&lt;/a&gt; - 1500$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15520&quot;&gt;Alpha Time Twister&lt;/a&gt; - 2500$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) Alpha ANBU Duals between 1500$ for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15342&quot;&gt;Plateau&lt;/a&gt; and 8000$ for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15544&quot;&gt;Underground Sea&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Alpha Moxes between 3000$ for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15270&quot;&gt;Mox Emerald&lt;/a&gt; and 6000$ for a &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15282&quot;&gt;Mox Sapphire&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=15517&quot;&gt;Alpha Time Walk&lt;/a&gt; - 4000$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=14781&quot;&gt;Alpha Ancestral Recall&lt;/a&gt; - 5000$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=14829&quot;&gt;Alpha Black Lotus&lt;/a&gt; - 20 000$&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T08:10:13.937" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13398" CreationDate="2016-01-17T14:37:59.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The tradition of numbering a d6 with 1 opposite 6, etc. goes back to the Ancient Greeks, if not before. As far as I know, the original reasoning behind that numbering isn't really known. It is, however, a way to improve fairness for a slightly flattened die, as noted above. &#xA;Other defects such as voids could cause a particular region of a die to preferentially land facing up. In order to minimize the effect of such defects on fairness, dice would ideally have the faces surrounding a vertex (a point where three or more faces come together) summing to the same number. Bob Bosch, Henry Segerman and I have just produced such a numerically-balanced d20 for the first time. For more details, please visit &lt;a href=&quot;http://thedicelab.com/BalancedStdPoly.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://thedicelab.com/BalancedStdPoly.html&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14972" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T14:37:59.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20861" CreationDate="2016-01-17T21:11:42.520" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Beginning Phase]&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Untap Step] Untap &amp;amp; phase things - No Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Upkeep Step] Upkeep triggers on the stack, then Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Draw Step] Draw a card, the Priority&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[First Main Phase] Priority (One of two places to play things that aren't abilities/instants)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Combat Phase]&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Begining of Combat Step] Nothing special - Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Declare Attackers Step] Attackers are declared, then Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Declare Blockers Step] Blockers are declared, then Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; ?First Strike Damage Step] First Strike damage happens, then Priority - Skip this step if no creatures in combat have First/Double Strike&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Damage Step] Rest of damage happens, then Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[End of Combat Step] Rare triggers are placed on stack, then Priority&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Second Main Phase] Priority (One of two places to play things that aren't abilities/instants)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[End Phase]&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[End of Turn Step] End of turn triggers on the stack, then Priority&lt;br&gt;&#xA; [[Clean Up Step] Until end of turn things end, active player discards down to 7 cards, state based effects are resolved. If anything has triggered: Priority and repeat this step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T21:11:42.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:03:04.683" Score="2" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to play this card game a lot but I haven't in many years and have forgotten nearly everything about the game. All I can remember is that it's a single player card game, you arrange the cards into a triangle with -I may be wrong about this part- the first layer of the triangle with cards face down and the other -or at least next layer- face up. Also, it was played with a standard 52 card deck i think. &#xA;      It may be a japanese game because I lived in japan for a large portion of my life and may have learned it there, and I don't remember where I leaned it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If anyone has any ideas at to what the name of the game is, please tell me even if it's a guess. Thank you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14976" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-21T20:05:41.957" LastActivityDate="2017-04-21T20:05:41.957" Title="What is the name of this game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28478" CreationDate="2016-01-17T22:57:25.427" Score="9" ViewCount="1754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=City%20of%20Brass&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt; be used to pay for the colorless component of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kozilek%2C%20the%20Great%20Distortion&quot;&gt;Kozilek, the Great Distortion&lt;/a&gt;'s cost if I am playing Commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T17:46:56.493" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:30:55.670" Title="Can City of Brass be used to cast Kozilek, the Great Distortion in Commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28451" CreationDate="2016-01-17T23:10:26.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most expensive cards tend to be things that weren't intentionally released. WotC does test printing of cards and many of these have made it outside of the company and can be worth 10s of thousands of dollars.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was a large test printing of 4th edition done by a different printer, many displays of these were retrieved from a dumpster at WotC and are available on the open market. They are referred to as Summer Magic and are hard to tell apart from the normal printing of the set. ABUgames have a Summer Tropical Island listed for $39,999. This is not a crazy price for these very rare and powerful cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-17T23:10:26.650" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28544" CreationDate="2016-01-18T00:06:24.743" Score="5" ViewCount="433" Body="&lt;p&gt;When each player is placing their initial Harbor and settlement, does the first player place BOTH their Harbor and settlement immediately or does the first player place only their Harbor then it's the next player's turn to place one Harbor?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14978" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T06:25:47.853" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:56:19.483" Title="Catan Pirates Starting Phase Question" Tags="|catan|catan-explorers-pirates|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28471" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28477" CreationDate="2016-01-18T01:10:56.657" Score="1" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have 2 influence and want the shotgun which is 4 successes. If I roll 2 successes, can I spend 2 clue tokens to reroll my success to attempt to get the shotgun or does rerolling a die remove that success and in theory I wouldn't be able to get the shotgun with my default influence and without a loan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14751" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T16:03:18.787" Title="Can You Reroll Successes For Reserves?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28466" CreationDate="2016-01-18T01:43:14.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Wikipedia's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_patience_games&quot;&gt;List of patience (i.e. solitaire) games&lt;/a&gt;, there are three that I could find with a triangular layout, plus one with three triangles, that might be the one you're thinking of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyramid_(solitaire)&quot;&gt;Pyramid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bowling_(solitaire)&quot;&gt;Bowling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tree_Solitaire&quot;&gt;Tree Solitaire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tri_Peaks&quot;&gt;Tri Peaks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to guess Pyramid, since I believe it's more well-known than Bowling or Tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T01:43:14.377" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28436" CreationDate="2016-01-18T02:34:08.693" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is what you want to have happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we assume the handicapping is perfect then everyone will have a 50% chance of winning each game. (it's easier to assume 2 player games). If you have a 50% chance of winning the match your rating shouldn't go up or down (on average) as you are evenly matched with your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You want ELO to be a true reflection of the players chances of winning games without handicap, then using the handicap you obtain an even playing field for two players to have a fun game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So tweak the handicap if the matches don't have either player winning close to 50% of the time. But don't mess with the ELO rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T02:34:08.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28474" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-18T07:31:13.583" Score="18" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a game about capitalism and I cannot remember it's name for the life of me&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxTZqm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/oxTZqm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of le card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14981" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T05:16:05.857" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T21:06:29.280" Title="Can anyone help my identify this card game" Tags="|identify-this-game|billionaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28471" CreationDate="2016-01-18T08:04:57.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Successes and failures are only counted after you finish rerolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T08:04:57.130" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28451" CreationDate="2016-01-18T13:51:51.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; from Innistrad, It's not nearly as high as some of the other cards mentioned but it does come up frequently in conversation. I think last I checked the foil was over $100.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T13:51:51.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28471" CreationDate="2016-01-18T15:58:10.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only count successes once all rerolls have been made. This can be inferred from this clause in the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rerolling Dice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Immediately after rolling dice during a test, an investigator&#xA;  may spend a Clue token to reroll one die. He may perform this&#xA;  multiple times, as long as he spends a Clue token each time. &lt;em&gt;He&#xA;  determines whether he passed or failed after resolving all rerolls&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in the reference guide, you'll find:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a die is rerolled, use the result of the reroll, even if the new&#xA;  result is worse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, clearly a reroll can &lt;em&gt;remove&lt;/em&gt; a success if that dice is rerolled! This makes it entirely clear you are just manipulating the result of a roll of a fixed number of dice. You can never get more successes than the original number of dice in the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This becomes even clearer when you remember that there are effects that allow an investigator to roll additional dice. If the intent was to allow rerolls to create additional successes, there wouldn't have been any need for the additional dice mechanic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastEditorUserId="13233" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T16:03:18.787" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T16:03:18.787" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28478" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28467" CreationDate="2016-01-18T18:56:46.407" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=City%20of%20Brass&quot;&gt;City of Brass&lt;/a&gt; adds one mana of any color, and colorless is not a color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;105.4. If a player is asked to choose a color, he or she must choose one of the five colors. “Multicolored” is not a color. Neither is “colorless.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past, if you attempted to add mana to your pool that did not share a color with your commander's color identity, that mana became colorless instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 4. If a player would produce mana of colors that are not in their General card's color identity, they instead get that much colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=18057&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;was removed&lt;/a&gt; with the release of Oath of the Gatewatch, which introduced new colorless symbols and colorless costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T18:56:46.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2016-01-18T19:11:25.493" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Also, keep in mind that in the early part of the game only the Spies&#xA;  have a good reason to vote against a team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...actually, its the opposite.  In the early part of the game, only the Spies have good reason to vote FOR a team....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Think of it this way:  If a team vote UNANIMOUSLY passes, that means &lt;em&gt;the spies have also voted for the team to pass&lt;/em&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the spies have perfect information.  They know themselves and the other spies.  So if themself or one of their dirty scumbag traitorous buddies are on a team, you can bet they WILL vote for it!  (unless of course they are being sneaky).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resistance don't know who's who.  Since you don't know, why would you arbitrarily accept a team?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the opposite is true, but right now (my logical deductive brain isn't the best) I can't see why not.  If a team UNANIMOUSLY FAILS a team vote, that means all the Spies have voted it down also.... its possible that it was a team made up entirely of good guys (rebels / resistance)... so the next leader should attempt the same team to a split vote: Rebels approving and the Spies (possibly) outing themselves!  In either case, if the mission succeeds, stay with those members for the next mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14983" LastEditorUserId="14983" LastEditDate="2016-01-18T19:16:57.707" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T19:16:57.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2016-01-18T20:02:03.800" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It all depends who you're playing with. If you're largely playing with people you don't really know, then you should stick to an odds-based strategy from one of the previous answers. However, when you're playing with close friends, the game becomes more interesting because you can identify the &quot;tells&quot; of the other players. When you know the people you're playing with well, the game actually becomes less about strategy and more about psychology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14899" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T20:02:03.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28488" CreationDate="2016-01-18T21:41:31.887" Score="2" ViewCount="293" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wandering around on boardgamegeek and I saw this picture of a guy painting Descent figures, but the post doesn't exists anymore - &lt;em&gt;thank you google&lt;/em&gt; - and the figures are just amazing&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure this is descent figure, but photos are taken on Descent v2 tiles so I guess it may be an extension I don't know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GDozS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GDozS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;descent dragons ?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14985" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T09:16:50.263" Title="What is this descent figure?" Tags="|identify-this-game|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28474" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:05:42.143" Score="28" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card game &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/140/pit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pit&lt;/a&gt; had a version that was released under the name &quot;Billionaire&quot; circa 1984, which is where your card comes from. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/94590/pit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This image&lt;/a&gt; contains the full set of cards including the one you showed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-04-08T21:06:29.280" LastActivityDate="2020-04-08T21:06:29.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28467" CreationDate="2016-01-18T22:30:55.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;References to special mana-generation rules for Commander are obsolete. City of Brass does what it says on the card, just like in regular Magic.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&amp;amp;t=18057&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Commander rules have been updated on January 18, 2016&lt;/a&gt; to make mana production work more like regular Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Rule 4 (mana generation restriction) is removed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rationale provided says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Being able to generate colorless mana more easily in Commander wasn't going to break anything. But, it represented another &quot;gotcha&quot; moment for players, who were now likely to learn about Rule 4 when someone exploited the colorless loophole. We could paper over it (both &quot;mana generated from off-color sources can only pay generic costs&quot; and &quot;you can't pay a cost outside your color identity&quot; were considered), but a lot of the flavor would be lost in the transition, defeating the purpose. Without the resonant flavor, Rule 4 was increasingly looking like mana burn - a rule that didn't come up enough to justify it's existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, now City of Brass will just generate mana of any color (but not colorless mana) regardless of your commander's color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T22:30:55.670" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4719" CreationDate="2016-01-18T23:46:48.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only thing you need to be concerned about in an optimal strategy is information about the other players. In The Resistance you will gain information in three main ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First is how a player picks a team, this is not only from who they pick to go on a team but any explanation of how they picked it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second is how people vote on a team after the members have been picked. This is can be a powerful tool in determining not only spies but if the mission will fail before the mission votes are shown. What I mean by this is if you have a mission where everyone votes for it to go (other than the first mission where no information is known) then you know the spies approved of it which should be a bad sign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third is how the mission went. If the mission fails you know for certain that there is at least one spy on the team. If the mission passes there might be a spy on the team or it could be a spy pretending they are not a spy so they get picked again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should be avoided as it can cause lots of problems for the resistance and help the spies is strategies that spell out how to play the game (that and it takes a lot of fun out of it). Any strategy and rules that resistance members know the spies will also know and be able to use to their advantage.  Here is an example of a problem strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 player game players  A, B, C, D, E, F, G sitting in a circle in that order.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players A, G, F are spies, B, C, D, E are resistance&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A picks the first mission and chooses players A and E to go on the mission which is voted to succeed. In the end no real information is gathered other than thinking that no spy was on the mission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B picks A and E to go on the mission because it succeeded and include themselves and the mission succeeds again. In the end no real information is gathered other than thinking that no spy was on the mission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now Player C is forced into the position of choosing the exact same team because everyone knows there is no spies on the team. This time when the votes are counted the mission fails because player A is ready to make their move. Other than knowing a spy was on the mission no real information was gained.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point the players on the resistance know two things. In the group that was on the mission there is likely one spy (more spies would risk having more fail votes). In the group that wasn't on the mission they know that there are two spies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At this point Player D has a very hard choice to make. 4 players need to be chosen for the next mission with the upside that 2 votes are needed to fail. At this point they know only one person can be picked from the group that hasn't played and there is only a 33% chance that they will not get a spy. From the second group they will have a 66% chance of not getting a spy on the first pick and a 50% of not getting one on the second pick. This mission comes down to luck on the picks and if the leader is a spy then chances are you just lost the mission and the game as there will be even more confusion for the last round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A loss like this is possible because of the rules on how people are supposed to act and that lets the spies be able to pass themselves off as resistance members. As a spy there is no reason to worry about two resistance wins in a row the spies are able to have a good shot at controlling who goes on the later missions in order to ensure they fail and the best way to do that is to not look like a spy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-01-18T23:46:48.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28481" CreationDate="2016-01-19T09:16:50.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is the Ice Wyrm, from Descent second edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T09:16:50.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28489" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-19T10:21:21.163" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some keepers have powers. Can these powers only be used during the turn that you play the keeper or every turn whilst the keeper is in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14997" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T08:12:30.167" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T08:17:55.103" Title="When can I use a power of a Keeper in Adventure Time Fluxx?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28492" CreationDate="2016-01-19T10:54:07.220" Score="8" ViewCount="8010" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Complete%20Disregard&quot;&gt;Complete Disregard&lt;/a&gt; which reads &amp;quot;Exile Target Creature with power 3 or less&amp;quot;, as I understand it, it becomes untargetable if the opponent's creature power increases thanks to a pump spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brute%20Strength&quot;&gt;Brute Strength&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;But what if the Disregard is already on the stack and targeting; and they respond with Brute Strength?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm pretty sure (and my opponent with Brute Strength was &lt;em&gt;certain&lt;/em&gt;) that it won't exile the creature, but I don't know which rule states this, and there's no gatherer ruling on the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T00:41:36.097" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T22:47:39.543" Title="What happens if a target for removal becomes ineligible after a card has been cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28489" CreationDate="2016-01-19T10:55:22.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/lit/rules/adventure-time-fluxx-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;, it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a keeper has a special power, you must have the card on the table in front of you in order to make use of the power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you have the keeper in front of you on the table, you can use its power.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T08:17:55.103" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T08:17:55.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28490" CreationDate="2016-01-19T11:09:08.463" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At resolution, Complete Disregard will instead leave the stack and be put into its owner's graveyard without doing anything, because all its targets have become illegal.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Targeting spells and abilities check the legality of their targets twice; once as you put them on the stack, and again just before they resolve. If all their targets have become illegal at the time of the second check, it doesn't resolve at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If some, but not all, of its targets become illegal before the second check, the spell or ability resolves but does not affect or obtain information about those illegal targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;608&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolving Spells and Abilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2b &lt;strong&gt;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal.&lt;/strong&gt; A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. &lt;strong&gt;If all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal, the spell or ability doesn’t resolve.&lt;/strong&gt; It’s removed from the stack and, if it’s a spell, put into its owner’s graveyard. Otherwise, the spell or ability will resolve normally. Illegal targets, if any, won’t be affected by parts of a resolving spell’s effect for which they’re illegal. Other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them. If the spell or ability creates any continuous effects that affect game rules (see rule 613.11), those effects don’t apply to illegal targets. If part of the effect requires information about an illegal target, it fails to determine any such information. Any part of the effect that requires that information won’t happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2020-10-14T22:47:39.543" LastActivityDate="2020-10-14T22:47:39.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28458" CreationDate="2016-01-19T15:21:51.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no need to magnetise both the board and the pieces. Remember that magnets stick to iron, nickel and cobalt (and alloys comprised of these, e.g. steel). If you magnetise both the board and the pieces, then you risk making a mistake and the board &lt;em&gt;repelling&lt;/em&gt; the pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned in your chessboard example, the mechanics are that the pieces are hollow with a small magnet, and they are attracted to a thin sheet of metal placed under the wood. Depending on your pieces, gluing thin magnet strips may be a better option if making hollow pieces is going to be difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The hardest part is testing the thickness of the board and strength of magnets to make sure that they stick as required, but are easy to move too. In this case you just have to experiment, but there are plenty of companies that produce magnets for miniatures. This site discourages specific product suggestions, but Googling something like &quot;miniature magnets&quot; will give lots of options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T15:21:51.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28496" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:20:42.093" Score="1" ViewCount="792" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blightcaster&quot;&gt;Blightcaster&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent enchants it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Claustrophobia&quot;&gt;Claustrophobia&lt;/a&gt; will my Blightcasters ability still work when I cast an enchantment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T16:34:23.883" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:27:00.247" Title="Does Claustrophobia prevent triggered abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28494" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:26:53.940" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers. Blightcaster's ability is a triggered ability, which means it doesn't matter if it is tapped or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T16:26:53.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28494" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:29:23.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blightcaster's ability is a triggered ability that triggers whenever you (the controller) casts an enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Claustrophobia doesn't say anything about preventing active or triggered abilities, it just taps the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, expect no more than what the cards say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T16:29:23.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="826" CreationDate="2016-01-19T16:39:06.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played with both these expansions ever since I started playing. We have always played to 13 victory points and it has worked very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15001" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-10-22T13:06:05.367" LastActivityDate="2018-10-22T13:06:05.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28494" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:27:00.247" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the ability will still work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under very old and outdated rules of MTG, triggered abilities of artifacts didn't work if the artifacts were tapped. These rules were changed in the 6th edition though, so now being tapped or untapped has no effect on a triggered ability, unless that ability specifically says &quot;if [card name] is untapped...&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as Blightcaster is a creature and not an artifact, even under the very old rules being tapped wouldn't matter here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:27:00.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28499" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28500" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:39:03.197" Score="6" ViewCount="2834" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=402079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger&lt;/a&gt; and target my opponent's two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383349&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plains&lt;/a&gt; on the board, does the exile effect resolve before my opponent has a chance to tap one of the lands to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382192&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that the cast effect would go on the stack &amp;amp; resolve prior to Ulamog being on the field and in play as a legal target for Path, but I'd like some confirmation to be certain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14930" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-19T09:41:23.247" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T09:41:23.247" Title="When do &quot;when you cast this spell&quot; effects resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28499" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:41:58.900" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can exile your opponents' Plains before Ulamog resolves, but you can't stop your opponent from getting mana from them. Assuming no one has anything else to do besides the things you mentioned, it'd go like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Ulamog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ulamog's &quot;when you cast...&quot; ability triggers, and you target your opponents' two Plains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent taps both Plains for white mana, leaving it in their mana pool. (They float two white.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability resolves, exiling both Plains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ulamog resolves, entering the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent spends one of the white mana to cast Path to Exile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your question it sounds like you might be thinking of lands and mana as being the same thing, but as that sequence of events pretty clearly shows, the lands are separate from the mana they produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-19T18:55:09.933" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T18:55:09.933" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28499" CreationDate="2016-01-19T17:44:43.523" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot prevent your opponent from tapping their Plains for mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the play you describe plays out in the following sequence of events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger. It goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell's triggered ability triggers, and goes on the stack on top of Ulamog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now you have a chance to respond. From your description, you probably do nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now your opponent has a chance to respond. They tap their two Plains, and if they're planning to cast Path to Exile, they probably don't do anything else.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability resolves, and the Plains are exiled.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If nobody has a response at this time, Ulamog resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now you have priority, but if you choose to do nothing, or you cast a spell or activate an ability, your opponent has the chance to cast Path to Exile targeting Ulamog.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T17:44:43.523" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="58834" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:12:46.713" Score="4" ViewCount="19536" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in my game say I don't need to buy a house. So what happens in the game if my house is destroyed per the board? Playing the other night I landed on two squares that we treated differently. What was correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First square: &quot;Burglary. Pay $50,000 if not insured.&quot; I figured an apartment or whatever I'm living in could be burglarized so I paid it. Should I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second square: &quot;Tornado destroys house. Pay $125,000 if not insured.&quot; I don't own a house - hence I did not think I should pay this square. Should I have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Edit]:&lt;/strong&gt; The version I have is Hasbro 2005. The rules state &lt;em&gt;&quot;Draw 2 House Deeds at random from the deck. Decide which one, &lt;strong&gt;if either&lt;/strong&gt;, you want to buy.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqveJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tqveJ.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9823" LastEditorUserId="9823" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T14:58:05.740" LastActivityDate="2023-06-01T03:28:19.293" Title="What if I don't own a house in Life and land on a pay square" Tags="|game-of-life|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28502" CreationDate="2016-01-19T20:21:46.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what version of the game you are playing.  From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/life.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hasboro's rules for LIFE&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BUYING A HOUSE&lt;/strong&gt; When you reach this space [the red one that has a stop sign and the words BUY A HOUSE], stop --even if you have&#xA;  moves left. Draw 1 House Deed at random from the deck. Pay the bank&#xA;  the price on the deed (not the insurance amount; that’s a separate&#xA;  transaction). If you’re short on cash, you must borrow from the bank.&#xA;  Then spin and move again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have to buy a house.  So if your house was burglarized or destroyed by a tornado, you still have to pay the money.  Note that having a tornado doesn't make you get rid of your house, you just have to pay to &quot;repair&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2016-01-19T20:21:46.050" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28508" CreationDate="2016-01-20T01:25:41.663" Score="7" ViewCount="7989" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, here's the thing. My dad plays Slivers for his Commander deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSliver%20Overlord%5d&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt; as his commander. When he plays this deck, he always seems to get out &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSliver%20Hivelord%5d&quot;&gt;Sliver Hivelord&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCrystalline%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Crystalline Sliver&lt;/a&gt;, thus making it impossible for my Green/Elves Commander deck (base deck is the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/products/card-set-archive/commander-2014/guided-by-nature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guided by Nature 2014 Commander&lt;/a&gt; but it has been pretty intensively editted) to be able to beat him from that point on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a green or colorless card that I could incorporate into my deck in order to beat this combo, or is my deck just not going to be able to counter this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T11:54:35.860" LastActivityDate="2017-08-11T18:17:59.703" Title="How can I deal with indestructible shrouded slivers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28504" CreationDate="2016-01-20T02:06:18.073" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll want an untargetted exile or sacrifice effect. Off the top of my head, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perilous%20Vault&quot;&gt;Perilous Vault&lt;/a&gt; would do the job. It would get your own guys, but you might have to just bite the bullet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A new card might be able to help you: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bonds%20of%20Mortality&quot;&gt;Bonds of Mortality&lt;/a&gt;. It doesn't get rid of shroud, but it makes them destroyable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T02:06:18.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28504" CreationDate="2016-01-20T02:43:38.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=All%20Is%20Dust&quot;&gt;All Is Dust&lt;/a&gt; Seems to fit the bill perfectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the real answer to this sort of weird shenanigans (man, I love that word) is to just kill them before they pull it off. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Overrun&quot;&gt;Overrun&lt;/a&gt; effects paired with large numbers of creatures would fit this strategy quite well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T02:43:38.223" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28504" CreationDate="2016-01-20T02:46:51.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, it may be far easier to keep him from getting to that point than it is to deal with it once he gets there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Elves should be able to be pretty fast, and getting all five colors of mana to cast his commander should take some time. Deal enough damage fast enough, and even if he manages to get a couple indestructible blockers close to the end won't matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he's relying on artifacts to help fix his colors, green definitely has ways to slow him down there. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; is probably the canonical example, but there's plenty more. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reclamation%20Sage&quot;&gt;Reclamation Sage&lt;/a&gt; is even an elf!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be able to slow him down further by killing his commander before he can tutor for the other slivers he wants. Green's main way of doing that is fighting (think &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Savage%20Punch&quot;&gt;Savage Punch&lt;/a&gt;), which may take some work to set up, but if you have any big green creatures along with those elves it might work. And of course, if you're playing multiplayer, there's a good chance someone playing more removal-heavy colors will be happy to help out and destroy his commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this really doesn't ever work out, you might want to ask whether the decks are really on the same power level. If he's got ridiculous mana fixing (fetch lands and dual lands and all) and you can't ever win anywhere near fast enough, it might mean that he needs to tone down his deck a bit or you need to push yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, to answer your actual question... as you've noticed, green doesn't really have anything. It doesn't have much simple targeted removal, and it has even less that'll wipe the board. There's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ezuri%27s%20Predation&quot;&gt;Ezuri&amp;#39;s Predation&lt;/a&gt; from Commander 2015 (make 4/4s to fight everything) and a few things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hurricane&quot;&gt;Hurricane&lt;/a&gt; that deal damage to all creatures with flying, but not really anything that'll get past indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you really want to deal with this, you probably need the few colorless options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=All%20is%20Dust&quot;&gt;All is Dust&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Perilous%20Vault&quot;&gt;Perilous Vault&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ugin%2C%20the%20Spirit%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Ugin, the Spirit Dragon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But again, it might be better to try to overwhelm him before he can get going than to count on finding one of a small number of cards in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T02:46:51.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28508" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28504" CreationDate="2016-01-20T02:48:18.580" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how far you want to go to tune your deck for this specific scenario you have a few options.  If dealing with this combo is more important then staying mono-green looking at a black splash will open up a lot of the cards ideal for this match up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General advice, Exile and negative toughness effects will still remove indestructible creatures, and Edicts (sacrifice effects that target the other player) will get around shroud as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that we are staying mono-green, Some specific Cards:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPerilous%20Vault%5d&quot;&gt;Perilous Vault&lt;/a&gt; will get around both by exiling everything, I recommend saving it to both play and activate in the same turn to avoid getting it destroyed   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAll%20is%20Dust%5d&quot;&gt;All is Dust&lt;/a&gt; will act as a board wipe    &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUgin%2c%20the%20Spirit%20Dragon%5d&quot;&gt;Ugin, the Spirit Dragon&lt;/a&gt; another board wipe  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAligned%20Hedron%20Network%5d&quot;&gt;Aligned Hedron Network&lt;/a&gt; can deal with the Hive Lord  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArcane%20Lighthouse%5d&quot;&gt;Arcane Lighthouse&lt;/a&gt; remove shroud  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBonds%20of%20Mortality%5d&quot;&gt;Bonds of Mortality&lt;/a&gt; will remove the indestructible  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSword%20of%20Kaldra%5d&quot;&gt;Sword of Kaldra&lt;/a&gt; will exile something it deals damage to, this could be used with a lure to force blocks  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPhyrexian%20Revoker%5d&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt; naming &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSliver%20Overlord%5d&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt; will stop the activated abilities on the Commander.     &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSong%20of%20the%20Dryads%5d&quot;&gt;Song of the Dryads&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLignify%5d&quot;&gt;Lignify&lt;/a&gt; on the Overlord can slow down searching up the combo.   &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212627&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jester's Cap&lt;/a&gt; can remove the problem cards from his Library  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDamping%20Matrix%5d&quot;&gt;Damping Matrix&lt;/a&gt; can shut down the activated abilities of the commander  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=23146&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bind&lt;/a&gt; can counter one activation of search to buy time  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTriumph%20of%20the%20Hordes%5d&quot;&gt;Triumph of the Hordes&lt;/a&gt; would also be a good answer to just go over in a green deck  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally you can look at some infect / wither for some creatures which will place -1/-1 counters which get around indestructible, or annihilator which will require sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="977" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T21:58:29.213" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T21:58:29.213" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28428" CreationDate="2016-01-20T10:06:31.157" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;if you add garden and start buying copper yourself, you can probably effectively counter this strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15011" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T10:06:31.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28510" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T11:41:38.763" Score="1" ViewCount="438" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Orrery&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt; in play, and my opponent attempts to cast an enchantment, can I flash in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aura%20of%20Silence&quot;&gt;Aura of Silence&lt;/a&gt; in response and force them to either pay 2 more mana or have their spell fizzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15013" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T11:51:09.157" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T18:22:29.260" Title="vedalken orrery, aura of silence in reponse to opponents enchantment" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28510" CreationDate="2016-01-20T11:56:36.870" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it generally doesn't work like that.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent has priority (i.e. the right to cast spells, activate abilities, and take special actions), and all other required conditions are also met, he can start casting his enchantment. In that case, you can still respond with Aura of Silence, but it will not have any effect on that particular enchantment. The Aura already has to be on the battlefield to have an effect on spells, because once a spell is on the stack, its costs can no longer change in any way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.4. Casting a spell that alters costs won’t affect spells and abilities that are already on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the classic case with no rules-lawyering going on, you are out of luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, in a tournament setting with strict rules enforcement, you might be able to use the shortcut rules and your opponent's sloppiness in your favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shortcuts are being used in almost every turn of every match of Magic ever, and that is no exaggeration. The simple act of untapping, drawing a card, and saying &quot;Go&quot; to end your turn is actually a large shortcut you propose to skip over all the usually required steps and phases of a turn, and usually your opponent will accept that proposal. However, he is not required to and can demand to go back to your draw step and propose a different shortcut, which you in turn have to accept and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what does this mean for your question?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say your opponent starts his turn, untaps, draws a card, then immediately starts casting his enchantment. What he actually did was he silently proposed for both of you to pass priority and continue into the first main phase, and assumed you would accept. However, it is your right to demand that both of you play out all the necessary steps, and after your opponent has drawn a card and passed priority to you, you get the opportunity to cast and resolve your Aura of Silence. Your opponent has to wait until the main phase, so if he still wants to play his enchantment, he would have to pay 2 more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get another opportunity to do the same thing at the end of combat. At various points during that phase, and notably at the end of combat step, players can cast instant-speed spells and activate abilities. So when creatures did attack and combat is over, and your opponent wants to cast an enchantment spell, it's clear that he has skipped to the second main phase, and you can then deny that shortcut and play your own spell at the end of combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T15:46:58.877" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T15:46:58.877" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28510" CreationDate="2016-01-20T13:18:59.627" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell while someone &quot;attempts to cast an enchantment&quot; makes no sense. You can't interrupt casting. (No player gets priority during the casting of a spell.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast Aura of Silence before they cast the enchantment, they will have to pay the extra cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast Aura of Silence after they cast the enchantment, they won't have to pay the extra cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.4. Casting a spell that alters costs won’t affect spells and abilities that are already on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question becomes the following: Can you cast your Aura of Silence before he starts casting his enchantment once he's made it clear he wants to cast the enchantment? Probably not, but it is possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you have to determine when they start casting the enchantment is whether they'res actually casting it or if they are proposing a shortcut. If they are proposing a shortcut, you may be able to shorten it to cast your spell&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;. But if the game is currently in one of their main phases, there's probably nothing you can do. I suspect that's the case here, though you didn't provide enough information for us to know decisively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For example, if they start casting the enchanment immediately after dealing combat damage, they are actually proposing the following shortcut:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players pass priority until my main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Then, I cast this enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you could shorten the shortcut to cast Aura of Silence in the End of Combat Step. (They wouldn't be obliged to cast the enchantment if you did that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they knew you might be planning to do that, they'd ask &quot;main phase?&quot; and wait for you to acknowledge. Once you do, they can cast their enchantment without you being able to cast your Aura of Silence first.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T13:44:10.170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T13:44:10.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28510" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:22:29.260" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add to the answers already given. You have to pay the costs of spells including any additional cost or &quot;taxes&quot; and if you cannot then the spell does not even get to be cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no retroactive countering of spells that have not paid some sort of cost. You can cast spells only if you can pay its cost in its entirety.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T18:22:29.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28516" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:25:35.850" Score="1" ViewCount="4507" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brave%20the%20Sands&quot;&gt;Brave the Sands&lt;/a&gt;, am I allowed to block both a 6/6 flying and a 5/4 with my 1/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gurmag%20Swiftwing&quot;&gt;Gurmag Swiftwing&lt;/a&gt;, and take 0 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T19:59:26.570" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:42:31.727" Title="How does combat damage work when one creature blocks multiple attackers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6040" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:31:46.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;1 and 2 are &quot;honte&quot; moves. They result in solid positions as they remove all aji from the marked stones, but are not mandatory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O O X X Q . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . B O X 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black has a strong position in the upper right, she'll welcome a fight that will allow to build while attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O O X X O . . . . . . . . . B . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X O X . . . 1 . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O 3 . . 2 . . . . . . . . B . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . 4 5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So omitting F16 in this case seems reasonable, and white can't really punish black, at least not before reinforcing her own shape.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As often with joseki, it is difficult to analyze the moves here without seeing the context.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Update] I browsed pro games that include this pattern, and it confirms that black doesn't need to play F16. Even after white plays D13 or D14, black might tenuki. If white doesn't reinforce the area, then later black might opt for a more aggressive move, like E14 or D13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O O X X O . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . X O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . b . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . | &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T21:50:02.807" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T21:50:02.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28514" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:38:19.603" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, the combination of cards you described allows you to block both creatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Brave the Sands allows you to declare your creature as a blocker for 2 separate attackers, both will be considered blocked, your Swiftwing will die, and you will receive no damage. Declaring blockers does not require that your creature be able to survive combat with any of the attackers, and both declarations and damage happen simultaneously, so there's no point where your creature will be destroyed &quot;before&quot; it can block the other attacker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple things worth noting: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a creature blocks multiple attackers, the defending player chooses the order in which the blocking creature's damage is dealt. In your example it doesn't make much difference since your creature couldn't kill either attacker, but if you were blocking instead with a 4/4 creature, you could either deal 4 damage to the 5/4 and destroy it, or you could deal 4 damage to the 6/6 in hopes of damaging it later that turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If either attacker has trample, any damage beyond your creature's toughness can be assigned to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13124" LastEditorUserId="7507" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T21:42:31.727" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T21:42:31.727" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28517" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28518" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:54:00.320" Score="0" ViewCount="25583" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my Elf Commander Deck (edited version of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/products/card-set-archive/commander-2014/guided-by-nature&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Guided by Nature 2014 Commander Deck&lt;/a&gt;), I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190411&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Nissa Revane&lt;/a&gt; and as I was looking through the MTG tag of BCGSE I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2992/do-the-elf-creatures-put-into-the-battlefield-by-planeswalker-nissa-revane-suffe&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; asking about if elves summoned with Nissa's -7 ability have summoning sickness. Since the answer is yes, I was wondering if there is a green or colorless card that I would be able to use to counter their summoning sickness (preferably an elf that grants other elves haste). Is there a card that would be able to fit into the restrictions of my deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T23:50:41.743" Title="How to grant haste en masse in a mono-green Commander deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28517" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:58:42.687" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;A simple search for cards with the words &amp;quot;creatures&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;haste&amp;quot; in their text boxes reveals a couple cards with Green color identity that grant mass haste:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=136150&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Akroma's Memorial&lt;/a&gt; is an artifact that grants your creatures Haste, along with a few other abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Concordant%20Crossroads&quot;&gt;Concordant Crossroads&lt;/a&gt; grants &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; creatures Haste, not just yours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reflex%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Reflex Sliver&lt;/a&gt; gives all your Slivers Haste and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hivestone&quot;&gt;Hivestone&lt;/a&gt; makes all your creatures Slivers, so together they give all your creatures Haste.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T19:18:00.033" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T19:18:00.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28524" CreationDate="2016-01-20T18:59:48.727" Score="6" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are the more in-depth rules for The Princess and The Dragon expansion:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.modernjive.com/carcassonne/carcassonnefaq.htm&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.modernjive.com/carcassonne/carcassonnefaq.htm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it does not answer my questions (I assume the fairy protects a &lt;strong&gt;tile&lt;/strong&gt;, not a follower):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does the fairy score at the end of the game? Meaning: If i have a fairy on a tile containing &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; unfinished castle, &lt;strong&gt;friend's and my&lt;/strong&gt; unfinished road and, say, two different farms which both belong to &lt;strong&gt;me&lt;/strong&gt;, do I get 3 points for &quot;scoring&quot; a castle even though it is not finished, because one of its tiles contain a fairy, 3 bonus points for the unfinished road, with the same explanation as the castle (also 3 points for my friend) and 6 points for 2 farms containing the tile with a fairy? &lt;strong&gt;To simplify, does a fairy grant a bonus at the end of the game for the farms and/or unfinished objects (that are actually &quot;scored&quot;)?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can one player score multiple finised objects with one fairy? E.g. by placing a tile with a road and a castle (&lt;strong&gt;both mine&lt;/strong&gt;) which finishes them both and immediately putting a fairy there grants me 3+3=6 bonus boints? Or does one get the bonus only once, no matter how many objects he owns on that particular fairy-occupied tile?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If my monastry neighbors a tile with a fairy and the monastry gets surrounded completely, thus scored, do I get the bonus 3 points or does the fairy have to be on the monastry tile itself?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15012" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:27:37.510" Title="Carcassonne fairy - scoring with a fairy for multiple areas and at the end" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11068" CreationDate="2016-01-20T20:00:20.863" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You didn't lose the corner, you exchanged it for a position on the right side. That's how pincers work, so nothing wrong here. The high pincer combined with your move at 11 looks right here as it prevents a white moyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence might not be optimal (see josekipedia/eidogo for the many variations), but the end result looks ok. Capturing at 13 is quite big for white, but its downside is that &lt;strong&gt;it gives black the initiative&lt;/strong&gt;. You could have played 13 before 11, but then it would have given white the opportunity to play 14 somewhere else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T00:30:28.047" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T00:30:28.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28521" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-20T22:31:14.970" Score="2" ViewCount="1070" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you get a player down to 0 life can he still use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Conduit&quot;&gt;Soul Conduit&lt;/a&gt;'s ability and swap life totals with another player killing that player instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15021" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-20T22:38:44.187" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:38:44.187" Title="Can a player with 0 life use Soul Conduit to make their opponent lose instead?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28521" CreationDate="2016-01-20T22:35:21.710" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, unless the player has a &amp;quot;Cannot lose&amp;quot; effect in play, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player goes to 0 life, before priority is regained (and the player able to activate Soul Conduit), state-based actions are checked and the player loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the ability were on the stack, it doesn't resolve before state-based actions, again. (e.g. 1 life, activate Conduit, use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Underworld%20Connections&quot;&gt;Underworld Connections&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:35:21.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28521" CreationDate="2016-01-20T22:36:17.767" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go down to zero life, you lose the game immediately, before you have a chance to do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception is if you have a card that prevents you from losing the game for having 0 or less life, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phyrexian%20Unlife&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Unlife&lt;/a&gt;. If you have one of those, then you will be able to act while you have 0 life, and you will have the opportunity to set another player's life total to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:36:17.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28519" CreationDate="2016-01-20T22:37:01.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a feature (city, road, cloister, or farm) with the fairy is scored, the player whose follower stands on the tile with the fairy scores 3 points for standing there, and may score for the feature as normal. When scored, the follower returns to its owner, but the fairy remains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make special note of &quot;When scored, the follower returns to its owner, but the fairy remains.&quot;&#xA;This means that you can only get the 3 bonus points by scoring something which will remove your follower from the tile. This can lead to multiple bonuses. The fairy is placed at the time you would place a follower, which comes before scoring (this should answer number 2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the monastery, once again the rules state that you should return your meeple, and I don't see that happening with the monastery being finished (unless another feature is finished along the way).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5865" LastActivityDate="2016-01-20T22:37:01.810" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28526" CreationDate="2016-01-21T00:13:20.963" Score="1" ViewCount="243" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Repercussion&quot;&gt;Repercussion&lt;/a&gt; on the table and I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kindle%20the%20Carnage&quot;&gt;Kindle the Carnage&lt;/a&gt;. Can an opponent prevent the damage done by repercussion after Kindle the Carnage has resolved? A mate and I are in a debate about this as in my opinion Repercussion goes off instantly and in his opinion &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Safe%20Passage&quot;&gt;Safe Passage&lt;/a&gt; or any other damage preventing card has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15022" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T00:28:18.873" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T01:09:48.257" Title="Kindle the carnage, repercussion and safe passage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28525" CreationDate="2016-01-21T00:17:15.597" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Repercussion's ability is a triggered abillity, so it goes on the stack just like spells and activated abilities. And just like with those, it can be responded to before it resolves, so the opponent will be able to prevent the damage with Safe Passage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be specific, the events occur as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Kindle the Carnage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both you and your opponent have a chance to respond to Kindle the Carnage. Either of you could play instants or activate abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kindle the Carnage resolves and deals damage to every creature (probably). Repercussion's ability triggers once for each creature that was dealt damage. Those abilities go on the stack in any order you choose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both you and your opponent have another chance to respond to the triggered abilities on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the triggered abilities resolves, and deals damage to the controller of the corresponding creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat steps 4 and 5 until the stack is empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent casts Safe Passage in step 4, as you describe, they will take no further damage from Repercussion. If, instead, they cast Safe Passage during step 2, then their creatures will take no damage when Kindle the Carnage resolves, and they will take no damage from Repercussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if as you describe, the oppponent casts Safe Passage in step 4, it plays out like this (assuming nobody else responds with other spells):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Kindle the Carnage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Kindle the Carnage is the top item on the stack, so it resolves and deals damage to every creature (probably). Repercussion's ability triggers once for each creature that was dealt damage. Those abilities go on the stack in any order you choose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent responds by casting Safe Passage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Safe Passage is now the top item on the stack, so it resolves. Further damage to your opponent and their creatures this turn is prevented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One of the triggered abilities is on top of the stack, so it resolves. If it would deal damage to your opponent, instead that damage is prevented because of Safe Passage's effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Step 5 repeats until the stack is empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T01:09:48.257" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T01:09:48.257" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28528" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-21T03:11:59.513" Score="3" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many simple games, such as Nim or Connect 4 are &lt;em&gt;solved&lt;/em&gt; meaning that there is an unbeatable strategy for the person who either starts, or plays second. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite knowing this - People still play these games, why? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T06:45:28.113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T10:27:00.743" Title="Are solved games worth playing?" Tags="|connect-four|nim|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-01-22T23:38:37.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28530" CreationDate="2016-01-21T04:37:22.657" Score="1" ViewCount="2626" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of Splendor when you have a developer card with prestige points on it, is that the number of gems it produces also? Or is it just one gem per card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15024" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T10:50:24.870" Title="How to count Splendor bonus gems" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28529" CreationDate="2016-01-21T04:50:47.447" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each card only gives a bonus of one gem. Prestige points are purely points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, on page 3 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spacecowboys.fr/img/games/splendor/details/rules/Rules_Splendor_US.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, there is an example of a player gaining 4 prestige points and a single blue bonus from a development card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="5356" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T04:56:07.893" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T04:56:07.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28531" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28532" CreationDate="2016-01-21T06:27:02.587" Score="-6" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the board game The Resistance are two factions, Resistance fighters and Spies.&#xA;Me and my friends had some debate if the Resistance fighters can actually use the Fail mission Card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My stand is yes, the resistance fighters can also use the fail card, because I didn't see in the rule book that they can't use the fail card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question here is, can the good guys use the fail card whether he has a reason to use it or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;based on the rulebook it is stated that  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Resistance Operatives &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; select the Mission Success card; Spies may select either the Mission Success or Mission Fail card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the question is, does the must is just only a Highly recommended move? or a compulsory move? based on the dictionaries i have checked &lt;strong&gt;Must&lt;/strong&gt; is used in different ways.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So most of the suggestions in the answers pertains to &quot;The resistance cant use the fail card because they have no objective to do it so.&quot;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That might be true to the plain The Resistance, but please mind that there are other modules/expansion packs in the Resistance that can give the Resistance an objective to fail a mission,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;one example would be &lt;strong&gt;The reverser module&lt;/strong&gt; wherein in this module the reverser (resistance or spy) can reverse the output of the mission, if resistance member already know who is the resistance reverser they can talk to each other like, &quot;Hey reverser, pick the reverse card and ill pick a fail card so that we are sure that in this round we will win even though we get other spy in the mission group&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the main reason why i'm asking if the resistance can use the fail card. obviously in this expansion the good guy has already a reason to fail a mission., they can also fail the mission if he thinks that there is a reverser spy in the group and reversed the outcome of the game thinking that all of the resistance would vote success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15025" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2017-04-18T17:38:54.657" LastActivityDate="2019-12-10T20:32:31.000" Title="Can the Resistance Fighters use the fail card?" Tags="|the-resistance|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28531" CreationDate="2016-01-21T09:06:09.253" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgameguys.ie/sites/bggnew/files/The_Resistance_rules_english.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: The Resistance Operatives &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; select the Mission Success card; Spies may&#xA;  select &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; the Mission Success or Mission Fail card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further confirmation for rules lawyers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/585119/resistance-must-select-mission-success-card-constr&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/585119/resistance-must-select-mission-success-card-constr&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1467743/mistakenly-failing-mission&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1467743/mistakenly-failing-mission&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11694" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T07:42:10.590" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T07:42:10.590" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28529" CreationDate="2016-01-21T10:50:24.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes each card that you &quot;purchased&quot; gives you on extra &quot;permanent&quot; gem. And only one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9849" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T10:50:24.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28536" CreationDate="2016-01-21T11:08:03.803" Score="4" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have a two 2/2s (A and B) and also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brave%20the%20Sand&quot;&gt;Brave the Sand&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;my opponent attacks with two 2/2s (C and D)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And C is blocked by A and B and D is also blocked by A and B.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I assign damage in such a way that A deals 1 damage to C and 1 damage to D and B also deals 1 damage to C and 1 damage to D?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you choose for each creature how they assign damage and you can only assign damage to the second creature if the first creature has lethal damage assigned. Does this mean that this must be true at the end of all assignments or when I first decide for creature A how he assigns damage, and then he has to assign 2 damage to the first creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T11:54:26.963" Title="Blocking multiple creatures with multiple creatures" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28536" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28535" CreationDate="2016-01-21T11:54:26.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can split the damage any way you like, as long as you follow the damage assignment order. The correct end result of the damage assignment is all that counts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1d [..] If it’s blocking two or more creatures, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocking creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that it’s blocking &lt;strong&gt;unless, when combat damage assignments are complete,&lt;/strong&gt; each creature that precedes that blocked creature is assigned lethal damage.&#xA;  [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T11:54:26.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28537" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28540" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:07:11.117" Score="2" ViewCount="822" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Blue Black Mill deck with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sphinx's Tutelage&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day's Undoing&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whispering%20Madness&quot;&gt;Whispering Madness&lt;/a&gt; works in the same way). If I had all four Tutelages on the field, and cast Days Undoing / Whispering Madness, how would the card draws work afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am under the impression that either way this would give me the game, but would the opponent draw first, then me so that I could start milling them or do I draw first, start milling them, then they draw seven?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T14:13:12.333" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T14:44:29.770" Title="Milling cards with discard an draw abilities" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28537" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:12:57.207" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You both draw 7 at the same time. At that point, the triggers from Sphinx's Tutelage are pending going on the stack. Then the turn ends. At that point, those pending triggers are removed from the stack and the turn ends. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you have 7 cards, no graveyard, and your opponent has 7 cards, no graveyard. (You still have your Tutelages, so good luck!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-01-21T14:24:11.653" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T14:24:11.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28537" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:15:19.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is what happens when the active player casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398652&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Day's Undoing&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player shuffles his or her hand and graveyard into his or her library and then draws seven cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398520&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sphinx's Tutelage&lt;/a&gt; triggers seven times, but those triggers do not go on the stack just yet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The nonactive player shuffles his or her library hand and graveyard into his or her library and then draws seven cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The turn ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;The turn ends&amp;quot; means something special in Magic. Specifically, rule 713.1a says that any triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack cease to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;713.1. Three cards (Time Stop, Sundial of the Infinite, and Day’s Undoing) end the turn. When an effect ends the turn, follow these steps in order, as they differ from the normal process for resolving spells and abilities (see rule 608, “Resolving Spells and Abilities”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;713.1a If there are any triggered abilities that triggered before this process began but haven’t been put onto the stack yet, those abilities cease to exist. They won’t be put onto the stack. This rule does not apply to abilities that trigger during this process (see rule 713.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And here is the rule that says explains why the active player draws first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;120.2a If an effect instructs more than one player to draw cards, the active player performs all of his or her draws first, then each other player in turn order does the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T14:44:29.770" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28537" CreationDate="2016-01-21T14:24:38.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Day's Undoing they will not mill any cards, they will only draw 7. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/magic-origins-update-bulletin-comprehensive-rules-changes-2015-07-16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Origins Update Bulletin&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;713.1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This new rule explains a bit more about Day's Undoing and ending the turn. Day's Undoing is the first card that has additional effects before it ends the turn. If any abilities trigger while players are shuffling or drawing cards, before the &amp;quot;end the turn&amp;quot; procedure starts, those abilities won't be put onto the stack. The &amp;quot;end the turn&amp;quot; procedure will essentially eat them. Of course, abilities that trigger during the &amp;quot;end the turn&amp;quot; procedure will go on the stack during that turn's cleanup step. (These abilities are pretty rare though.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Whispering Madness you would both draw the appropriate number of cards, then for each card you drew you would have 4 Tutelage triggers go on the stack. They would draw before milling because triggered abilities wait to be put on the stack until a player would receive priority which doesn't happen until after the spell is done resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T14:24:38.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28519" CreationDate="2016-01-21T15:27:37.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a feature (city, road, cloister, or farm) with the fairy is scored, the player &lt;strong&gt;whose follower stands on the tile&lt;/strong&gt; with the fairy scores 3 points for standing there, and may score for the feature as normal. When scored, the follower returns to its owner, but the fairy remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important part is the only meeple to get the bonus have to be on the SAME TILE as the fairy.  And while there are 2 ways with expansions I am aware of that allow multiple meeple on a &lt;strong&gt;single tile&lt;/strong&gt;, that is the only way you will get multiple bonuses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:27:37.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28543" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28206" CreationDate="2016-01-21T15:36:02.253" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mayor doesn't affect the &lt;em&gt;number of points&lt;/em&gt; received for completing a City.  The Mayor only affects &lt;strong&gt;WHO&lt;/strong&gt; might get the points.  If someone has a meeple in a city and you get your Mayor in the city, the mayor counts as the number of pennants in that city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the City had 0 pennants, then your mayor would be 0 and the other meeple would be 1, allowing them to have 'more' meeple.  If there was 1 pennant, then you would tie and both get the score.  If there were 2 or more pennants, than you would have more meeple (the number of pennants) and would 'win' and get all the points your opponent getting nothing.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Cathedrals as you've noticed changed values from 2 points/tile and pennant to 3 per.  So a city with 8 tiles and 2 pennants would go from 20 points to 30 points.  Who ever has the most meeple in the city gets all the points (tie both get the same)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:36:02.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28544" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28470" CreationDate="2016-01-21T15:56:19.483" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Using the turn order described in base Catan,&lt;/strong&gt; each player places a harbor settlement first and a regular settlement second on the starting island (each without a road).  Your harbor settlement must be placed on one of the intersections marked with a circle (page 9). The regular settlement may be placed on any intersection, including those marked with a circle. You must of course observe the distance rule when building all harbor settlements and regular settlements.  Your starting resources are 1 card from each terrain hex adjacent to your starting settlement (not harbor settlement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last player to place a settlement is the first to place a road adjacent to that settlement.  That same player then places a settler ship (ship + settler) on one of the sea routes adjacent to his or her harbor settlement.  The other players follow clockwise.  Once everyone has placed their pieces the starting player begins the game by rolling the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read that first line to mean you play like the base game, you place your harbor and then everyone else does too.  Then the last person to place a harbor, places their settlement, with a road and then places a settler ship, back to the original player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T15:56:19.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28347" CreationDate="2016-01-21T19:01:20.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion to the above is that you can take the routes that give you the least number of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you get the Los Angeles to New York card, take the following route.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LA to Phoenix&#xA;Phoenix to El Paso&#xA;El Paso to Santa Fe&#xA;Santa Fe to Denver&#xA;Denver to Omaha&#xA;Omaha to Kansas City&#xA;Kansas City to St Louis&#xA;St Louis to Chicago&#xA;Chicago to Pittsburgh&#xA;Pittsburgh to New York&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of taking 6 turns to complete that route, it will take you 10 turns, giving your opponent 4 extra turns to make their own moves. In addition to that, each segment will give you fewer points, making your overall score lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15030" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T19:01:20.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20362" CreationDate="2016-01-21T23:25:34.677" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the old days, when something was unusual or &quot;backwards&quot; or just plain weird, it was referred to as &quot;Chinese&quot;. Hence the game not resembling checkers in the slightest, it was coined &quot;Chinese checkers&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15034" LastActivityDate="2016-01-21T23:25:34.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28547" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28550" CreationDate="2016-01-22T00:54:53.490" Score="3" ViewCount="7235" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could I attack myself with  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=sengir%20vampire&quot;&gt;sengir vampire&lt;/a&gt;, block with a creature, and get a +1/+1 counter on it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T02:09:26.993" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:22:02.553" Title="May I attack myself?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-22T01:35:33.250" Score="1" ViewCount="731" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for something like &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/abalone/id583042071?mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; except online and with AI I can play against. If it's free, that's even better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14954" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T19:02:50.403" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:17:01.910" Title="Is there a website where I can play against AI in the board game Abalone?" Tags="|game-accessories|abalone|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2017-12-13T17:25:41.900" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28547" CreationDate="2016-01-22T01:46:02.747" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, because the rules specifically say that you attack the other player in a two-player game, or opponents in a multiplayer game. There are no cards which change this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the full relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.2. During the combat phase, the active player is the attacking player; creatures that player controls may attack. During the combat phase of a two-player game, the nonactive player is the defending player; that player and planeswalkers he or she controls may be attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.2a During the combat phase of a multiplayer game, there may be one or more defending players, depending on the variant being played and the options chosen for it. Unless all the attacking player’s opponents automatically become defending players during the combat phase, the attacking player chooses one of his or her opponents as a turn-based action during the beginning of combat step. (Note that the choice may be dictated by the variant being played or the options chosen for it.) That player becomes the defending player. See rule 802, “Attack Multiple Players Option,” rule 803, “Attack Left and Attack Right Options,” and rule 809, “Emperor Variant.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;802.1. Some multiplayer games allow the active player to attack multiple other players. If this option is used, a player can also choose to attack only one player during a particular combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;802.2. As the combat phase starts, the attacking player doesn’t choose an opponent to become the defending player. Instead, all the attacking player’s opponents are defending players during the combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(There are additional rules for multiplayer variants where there are restrictions on who you can attack, but rather than quoting absolutely everything, I'll just reiterate that nothing ever says you can attack yourself.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T01:46:02.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28531" CreationDate="2016-01-22T04:15:37.557" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In board game rules &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; means it is compsulory, and &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; means they don't have to, but the option is open to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are very clear for this particular issue, genuine resistance members are not allowed to play fail cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T04:15:37.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2016-01-22T10:23:10.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Japanese pro 9-dan, Tomoyasu MIMURA (born 1969) writes in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mimura15.jp/1116.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;his blog entry (3 Feb 2014)&lt;/a&gt;, ''I had never seen, or heard of 9x9 board in my childhood'' and ''In 1987 started the TV show 'Mini-Go One Game Match (ミニ碁一番勝負)'.... Professionals had begun to pay attention to the unexpected depth of 9x9 board game some time before''. &#xA;Therefore, around 1985 would be a good guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15038" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T10:23:10.430" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28554" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28528" CreationDate="2016-01-22T10:27:00.743" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are 3 reasons why I sometimes play solved games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;For the benefit of the other player&lt;/strong&gt;. I play connect 4 with my 4 year old nephew. The point of the game for me is the bonding part. For him, its bonding, thinking ahead, playing to win and the tactile feedback of playing with the pieces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To find the solution independently&lt;/strong&gt;. I was introduced to Nim in a mathematics lecture, where the problem was to solve the game and prove the solution works. The point of the 'game' in this context is not to play it at all, but to have a concrete subject matter to apply abstract reasoning to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To add more complexity later&lt;/strong&gt;. Tic-Tac-Toe on a 3x3 grid is solved, but I'll introduce the 3x3 grid to new players before going to larger grids&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T10:27:00.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28531" CreationDate="2016-01-22T15:37:26.600" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I posted a shorter version of this as a comment but am also writing an answer which allows for more details. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As others have stated, &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; in the context of games refers to a mandatory action or restriction.  This includes many types of games, including board games, card games, and sports.  If you don't believe, try interpreting &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; as &quot;highly recommended but not required&quot; in other games and see how the other players react.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volleyball#Rules_of_the_game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Volleyball&quot;&gt;Volleyball&lt;/a&gt; includes the rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The opposing team &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; use a combination of no more than three&#xA;  contacts with the volleyball to return the ball to the opponent's side&#xA;  of the net.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means a team IS NOT ALLOWED to use 10 hits, claiming it was legal and 3 was only the highly recommended maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Betting_in_poker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Poker&quot;&gt;Poker&lt;/a&gt; includes the rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances, all other players still in the pot &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  either call the full amount of the bet or raise if they wish remain&#xA;  in, the only exceptions being when a player does not have sufficient&#xA;  stake remaining to call the full amount of the bet (in which case they&#xA;  may either call with their remaining stake to go &quot;all-in&quot; or fold) or&#xA;  when the player is already all-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that a player IS NOT ALLOWED to remain in the hand without matching the bet, claiming that it is only highly recommended to match the bet but legal not to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A nearly infinite number of additional examples exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T15:37:26.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28556" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28557" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:02:23.360" Score="3" ViewCount="1281" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=439335&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jace, Vryn's Prodigy&lt;/a&gt; has the text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are five or more cards in your graveyard, exile Jace, Vryn's Prodigy, then return him to the battlefield transformed under his owner's control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the point of exiling him and then returning him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15042" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-10-04T10:36:32.700" LastActivityDate="2019-10-04T10:36:32.700" Title="Exile then return Jace, Vryn's Prodigy?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-23T07:49:40.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28556" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:12:28.703" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 aspects to this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Why is it necessary at all to include extra actions, why not just transform Jace?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Answer: If Jace was simply transformed from creature to planeswalker, he would not get his 5 loyalty counters and would go to the graveyard as a state-based action. A planeswalker only gets the initial loyalty counters when the permanent that represents it enters the battlefield as a planeswalker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also in the card's rulings, indirectly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In some rare cases, a spell or ability may cause one of these five cards to transform while it’s a creature (front face up) on the battlefield. If this happens, the resulting planeswalker won’t have any loyalty counters on it and will subsequently be put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To solve problem 1, why exile Jace instead of taking all required steps manually? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To fully &quot;reset&quot; a creature so that nothing can continue affecting the planeswalker or generally cause confusion, you would have to take care of many things: Remove all counters, unattach auras (there are &quot;enchant permanent&quot; auras that do not fall off automatically) and equipments, end permanent effects that would continue to be active after transformation such as change of controller and color, remove effects such as Cipher, and so on; finally you would have to add 5 loyalty counters manually. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exiling and returning the creature transformed takes care of all of these issues at once, and, maybe most importantly in this context, it also takes care of any future issues that could crop up from new mechanics and interactions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, solving these issues explicitly would require much more rules text on the card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, the answer is &lt;strong&gt;From a rules perspective it's one possible solution that produces a functional planeswalker, and from a design perspective it's the most elegant and future-proof way of doing so.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T12:02:05.110" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T12:02:05.110" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5091" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:21:00.217" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easy way to speed up the game is to play cards directly from your hand instead of waiting for it to pop up in the run list. This speeds up the game allowing players to play bunnies and weapons more often. When I play with this rule games last about 1-2 hours at most.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15043" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:21:00.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28547" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:22:02.553" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you were to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Donate&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sengir%20Vampire&quot;&gt;Sengir Vampire&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent would gain control of it. If you then activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mindslaver&quot;&gt;Mindslaver&lt;/a&gt; you'll control that player's next turn. You can then attack yourself from your opponent's side of the board and block with any number of flying or reach creatures like tokens from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Call&quot;&gt;Call&lt;/a&gt;. Then the vampire will gain those +1/+1 counters. On your turn you can then use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt; style effects to bring it back under your control and swing with your 7/7 flying. Hurray!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, you could just cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Give&quot;&gt;Give&lt;/a&gt; and call it good.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T18:22:02.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28556" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:38:31.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing would have prevented them from saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Remove all counters from ~. Put five loyalty counters on ~ and transform it.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that auras and equipment would drop off due to its new non-creature status.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then it wouldn't have &amp;quot;entered the battlefield&amp;quot;. For the standard at the time and now, this would have been an insignificant change. For Oath of the Gatewatch, however, there are cards where it specifically  and significantly matters (that is to say the primary effect of the card would be negated for these, as opposed to a simple side-effect of the existing complexity of &lt;strong&gt;Magic&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Gideon&quot;&gt;Oath of Gideon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each planeswalker you control enters the battlefield with an additional loyalty counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Chandra&quot;&gt;Oath of Chandra&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each end step, if a planeswalker entered the battlefield under your control this turn, Oath of Chandra deals 2 damage to each opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to trigger these new cards, the flip cards would have had to actually entered the battlefield, not simply transformed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T20:57:48.240" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T20:57:48.240" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28561" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:53:49.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sheriff of Nottingham&lt;/em&gt; is a bidding game in which players make a profit by bringing in legal goods and smuggling illicit goods past the Sheriff. The English edition was first published in 2014 by Arcane Wonders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T23:39:42.760" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T23:39:42.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28562" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-22T18:53:49.100" Score="0" Body="A bidding game in which players make a profit by bringing in legal goods and smuggling illicit goods past the Sheriff." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T23:39:37.410" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T23:39:37.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28563" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-22T19:01:25.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trouble Game: Despicable Me Edition&lt;/em&gt; is a variation of the pawn-moving game Trouble themed for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Despicable_Me_(franchise)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Despicable Me franchise&lt;/a&gt;. It was first released in 2014 by Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T23:40:00.183" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T23:40:00.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28564" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-22T19:01:25.343" Score="0" Body="A variation of the pawn-moving game Trouble themed for the Despicable Me franchise. " OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-22T23:39:49.010" LastActivityDate="2016-01-22T23:39:49.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28565" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28566" CreationDate="2016-01-22T19:10:10.693" Score="6" ViewCount="26649" Body="&lt;p&gt;When given the Dog Companion it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take a small monster token to represent the Dog. Put it in your room.&#xA;  (Use a token of a different color from other monsters, if any.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once during your turn, the Dog can move to any explored room up to 6&#xA;  spaces away, using doors and stairs, and then return. It can pick up,&#xA;  carry, and/or drop 1 item before it returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Dog isn't slowed by opponents. It can't use one-way passages or&#xA;  rooms that require a roll. It can't carry items that slow movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What is the point/benefit of the dog?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm assuming it can only pick up dropped items? What items can it pick up, in what scenario?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it can explore tiles, and landing on a tile with an icon that makes you draw a card which ends your turn, and your dog can explore 6 of these freely each turn, how do you keep track of which tiles still need cards drawn when you land on them? Do you still draw cards when you land on these spaces?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a explorer finds a room that has to roll, does the dog sit outside or find a way around? Or does the final rule only apply for when &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; is exploring?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I almost find it easier to just remove this card entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14751" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-05-04T21:41:10.260" LastActivityDate="2017-05-04T21:41:10.260" Title="How does the Dog companion work and what is its benefit?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28565" CreationDate="2016-01-22T19:46:49.293" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the point/benefit of the dog?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose is to trade objects between players. Say that a character gains the Revolver item, which allows them to use Speed to attack. If the character who found it has a low speed, they can use the dog to give it to another player with a higher speed, without having to take the time to meet up with them on their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some scenarios require an object to be in a certain location. For instance, The Mummy Walks (#1) requires the book to be in the same room as the mummy in order for a character to attack it. If one of my allies is in the same room and I'm 6 spaces away, it would probably take me two turns to give it to them. But with the dog, I can give it the book and then have it travel the distance in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, some of the scenario setups instruct you to put items in rooms, such as The Stars are Right (#14), which tells you to place paint cans in several rooms. The dog can pick those up and give them to its owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I'm assuming it can only pick up dropped items? What items can it pick up, in what scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do indeed say that the dog can pick up a dropped item. I suppose technically you could have a character drop an item (a free action) and then have the dog pick it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My group has always ruled that a character can voluntarily give or take something from the dog, since that seems to make the most sense thematically and avoids the extra complexity of dropping and picking up things. It's basically the same as the Trade action, but at range through an intermediary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The dog can carry any omen or item, aside from ones that slow movement (per the dog's description) or specifically say that they can't be transferred or carried by the dog. For instance, it can't carry the Girl or the Madman because those say they can't be transferred. Some scenarios will introduce new objects and will specifically say that the dog can't pick them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If it can explore tiles, and landing on a tile with an icon that makes you draw a card which ends your turn, and your dog can explore 6 of these freely each turn, how do you keep track of which tiles still need cards drawn when you land on them? Do you still draw cards when you land on these spaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is moot because the dog can't explore tiles. Per the description, the dog can only move to &quot;any &lt;em&gt;explored&lt;/em&gt; room up to 6 spaces away&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a explorer finds a room that has to roll, does the dog sit outside or find a way around? Or does the final rule only apply for when it is exploring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last paragraph about one-way passages and rooms that require a roll is intended to be an extension of the rules of the second paragraph. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, when the dog is sent out to a space 6 spaces away, it cannot go through one-way passages or rooms that require a roll. If it's not moving on its own, the dog is &quot;along for the ride&quot; and stays with the player just like any other omen or item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T02:18:58.667" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T02:18:58.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28567" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28592" CreationDate="2016-01-22T20:08:56.830" Score="5" ViewCount="331" Body="&lt;p&gt;I enjoy the events thematically, but the majority of them seem to be of the general form: Make a [stat] roll. If you succeed, increase [stat], if you fail, decrease [stat].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the number of dice you get to roll are based on your current stat value, you're more likely to succeed and increase some stat that you're already good at, and more likely to fail and decrease some stat that you're already bad at.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Especially during the exploration phase, there is little to do except explore new rooms and get hit with unpredictable events which will increasingly cripple you if you have a lower-than-average stat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of a way to mitigate this snowball effect, so you're not perpetually punished for having a bad roll early?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt;: More specifically, I was looking for additions to the rules that provide a little more agency/forgiveness than conservative gameplay, which tends to rely on the cooperation of others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15044" LastEditorUserId="15044" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T18:11:31.387" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T18:11:31.387" Title="How to Mitigate Snowball Effect of Events" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28568" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:11:56.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Last Will&lt;/em&gt; is an economic card game where players compete to be the first to spend their rich uncle's money. The English edition was first published in 2011 by Czech Games Edition and Rio Grande Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T04:28:16.103" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T04:28:16.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28569" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-01-22T22:11:56.717" Score="0" Body="An economic card game where players compete to be the first to spend their rich uncle's money." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T04:28:19.183" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T04:28:19.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28570" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-23T03:53:27.817" Score="5" ViewCount="4404" Body="&lt;p&gt;In canasta. Can you meld three wild cards and two jacks to pick up a jack on the discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15046" LastActivityDate="2018-05-19T13:12:14.573" Title="Canasta rules for melding and picking up pile" Tags="|canasta|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28571" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28575" CreationDate="2016-01-23T04:21:57.077" Score="1" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Fisherman kingdom card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 gold for each of your own settlements built adjacent to one or more water hexes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a harbor sector in play, I can move a settlement to a water hex. At the end of the game, &lt;strong&gt;do I get a point for settlements &lt;em&gt;on&lt;/em&gt; water hexes in addition to hexes adjacent to water?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T15:06:20.130" Title="Do I score fishermen for settlements on water?" Tags="|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28573" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28570" CreationDate="2016-01-23T07:17:10.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, assuming that your total point value of the meld meets your minimum. From various sites that gives rules for Canasta:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A meld must contain at least two natural cards and not more than three&#xA;  wild cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your meld would have 3 naturals along with 3 wilds, which meets both criteria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not matter what the meld looks like not including the top of the discard. The top card of the discard is part of the meld, so you include that when seeing if the meld is legal. This is true both for determining if the meld meets the minimum points and if the meld has enough naturals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T04:09:06.950" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T04:09:06.950" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26838" CreationDate="2016-01-23T10:36:33.380" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An older thread, so I hope somebody is still reading!  I've wondered exactly the same thing.  Again, we haven't played it a huge amount, and in fact only once using the harbour expansion (using the 5-5-2 variant that seems popular).&#xA;Whilst the expansion made the game better, rolling two dice seems counter-productive.  You just can't cover the range of rolls needed to make it worthwhile.  Especially when people start getting to re-roll from the radio tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I love the idea of the game, it's right up my street, but it's surely flawed big time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thoughts on a solution:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radio tower can only be used on two dice, and on either or both dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tweak the harbour to allow more use with two dice rolls.  That way you won't need to cover all rolls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Purple cards only work on rolls of two dice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these, done without care, would overpower some cards, but the right combination would probably be about right, I hope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15049" LastEditorUserId="10016" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T18:27:38.290" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T18:27:38.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28571" CreationDate="2016-01-23T14:57:55.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. For scoring the Fishermen card, you can ignore any settlement on a water hex, no matter if it’s adjacent to another water hex or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules about the Fishermen card (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note - Extra harbor action:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  The &quot;Fishermen&quot; card does not generate&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  gold for settlements on water hexes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also part of BoardGameGeek’s &lt;em&gt;Kingdom Builder FAQ&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Kingdom_Builder_FAQ#toc23&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fishermen: no points for settlements on water hexes&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T15:06:20.130" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T15:06:20.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28576" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28577" CreationDate="2016-01-23T16:35:11.520" Score="1" ViewCount="434" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howling%20Mine&quot;&gt;Howling Mine&lt;/a&gt;. At the beginning of my draw step, I draw &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temporal%20Mastery&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt;. Can I stack the Miracle trigger and then the Howling Mine trigger, such that I draw my second card before the Miracle trigger resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-01-23T16:40:20.417" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T18:16:58.247" Title="Can I stack Miracle and other &quot;at the beginning of of your draw step&quot; triggers however I want?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28576" CreationDate="2016-01-23T16:48:58.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can order the triggers as you like.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;504&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;504.1. First, the active player draws a card. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;504.2. Second, any abilities that trigger at the beginning of the draw step and any other abilities that have triggered go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93. Miracle&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.93a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). “Miracle [cost]” means &lt;strong&gt;“You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it’s the first card you’ve drawn this turn.&lt;/strong&gt; When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You first draw the normal card. If you want to play it for its Miracle cost, you reveal it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then  Howling Mine and Miracle goes on the stack at the same time. Since you control both triggers, you can arrange them as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you get priority and afterwards the stack starts resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if another player controlled the Howling Mine, you would have to place them on the stack in turn order, starting with you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;405.3. If an effect puts two or more objects on the stack at the same time, those controlled by the active player are put on lowest, followed by each other player’s objects in APNAP order (see rule 101.4). If a player controls more than one of these objects, that player chooses their relative order on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T18:16:58.247" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28579" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23050" CreationDate="2016-01-23T19:16:58.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We grew up playing that the only time a non-king piece could go backwards is if the play was a multi-piece knockout and the the first opponet piece jumped was not a backward jump. So, if it was a three jump knockout, the first jump had to be forward but the 2nd or 3rd could be backwards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15052" LastActivityDate="2016-01-23T19:16:58.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28583" CreationDate="2016-01-24T14:59:40.973" Score="6" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Elder&quot;&gt;Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt; is listed on a lot of websites with the Druid creature type, but the card only lists &amp;quot;Elf&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Argothian Elder a Druid too?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T18:32:51.763" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T18:32:51.763" Title="Is Argothian Elder a Druid?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28582" CreationDate="2016-01-24T15:25:07.170" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule 108.1 states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the text on Gatherer is correct regardless of what is printed on the card.  This is because older cards have been changed, usually to maintain their functionality while the rules have continued to evolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gatherer lists &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Argothian%20Elder&quot;&gt;Argothian Elder&lt;/a&gt;'s type as &amp;quot;Creature — Elf Druid&amp;quot;, so it is a druid. Older cards only had a single creature type, in the Grand Creature Type Update most older cards got updated to the newer   structure used today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2022-01-10T18:31:43.000" LastActivityDate="2022-01-10T18:31:43.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28436" CreationDate="2016-01-24T17:17:34.777" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thank you for the replies.Basically if Mattel had their own handicap system worked on the ELO maybe with a button to press if the game is handicapped between the two and then up or down the ELO accordingly, this way we would not need any independent system at all.  It would also be great if Mattel fixed their problems so that friends show up on each others lists which is a different subject but causing group and leagues major problmes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14942" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T17:17:34.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28593" CreationDate="2016-01-24T18:51:14.677" Score="1" ViewCount="1848" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only you vulnerable, you have a  13- high card point hand like the following: (s)x (h) AJxx (d) KJxx (c) KJxx. (No x is higher than a 7). Three passes have preceded you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebum.com/pearson_points.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;Rule of 15&quot;&lt;/a&gt; suggests that you open in fourth seat only if the sum of your high card points and spades add up to at least 15. It works most often for 11 point hands with four spades. Here, you have the full opening point count (13), but are weak in spades, the highest ranking suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &quot;average,&quot; your partner will have nine, or one third of the remaining 27 points, giving your side about 22 (out of forty). Balanced against this is the near-certainty that the opponents own the spade suit. (Partner would have opened with a &quot;weak two&quot; spades with six, unless they were very weak.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this consideration suggest that you should pass in fourth seat, even though you might have opened, say one diamond, in first, second, or third seat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; I am now also assuming unfavorable vulnerability, that is &quot;only you vulnerable&quot; (the original version of the question said both vulnerable). Does vulnerability make a difference in this borderline case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T14:23:03.180" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T16:13:25.553" Title="Does the &quot;Rule of 15&quot; suggest that you should pass with 13 points (and short spades) in fourth seat?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28586" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28588" CreationDate="2016-01-24T19:12:17.913" Score="3" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently bought a large collection of very old Magic cards. While sorting through them, I found two cards that I don't have an immediate answer for their value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO2dD.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO2dD.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pro Tour 1996 Winter Orb Front&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NnxB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4NnxB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Pro Tour 1996 Winter Orb Back&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Promo from the first Pro Tour, in 1996)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZThZF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZThZF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Autographed Revised Blue Ward&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(Autographed Blue Ward (might be Dan Frazier, revised))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google / magiccards.info didn't have any information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;tcgplayer.com came up with &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.tcgplayer.com/magic/collectors-edition/winter-orb-ce&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this result&lt;/a&gt;, a 'Collectors Edition' Winter Orb,&#xA;but that page says that the card type is 'Continuous Artifact' and has different text for the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a concrete way to determine the values of these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:41:50.080" Title="How can I determine the value of very rare cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28586" CreationDate="2016-01-24T20:57:00.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gold-bordered cards are from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/World_Championship_Decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;World Championship decks&lt;/a&gt;. They have been printed in large numbers and are not legal to play in any format, so their monetary value is probably very low.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Blue Ward might have value due to the signature, but since it's not a highly sought after card, I wouldn't expect too much either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T20:57:00.020" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28586" CreationDate="2016-01-24T21:03:59.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only way to attempt to determine a concrete value for a card is to find it's price in a large market place where market forces (supply &amp;amp; demand) have determined the value of the listed cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Europe's biggest trading site, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccardmarket.eu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;magiccardmarket.eu&lt;/a&gt;, is very comprehensive in the cards that it lists. They have one of the best listings of uncommon sets.&#xA;There the winter orb from the World Championship Deck's in near mint condition is ~2€&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As my predecessor already mentioned, it is not tournament legal (only white and black bordered cards are).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, gold border cards are a cheap alternative for players building a draft-cube or for any other non-tournament use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastEditorUserId="7491" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T01:41:50.080" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T01:41:50.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9673" CreationDate="2016-01-24T21:42:59.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of sellers on ebay that have replacement parts in a variety of colors, including a bunch that aren't part of the actual game (purple, pink, gold, etc).  A quick search there should turn up quite a few options.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15062" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T21:42:59.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28591" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28644" CreationDate="2016-01-24T22:36:27.640" Score="1" ViewCount="601" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been collecting models for my first WH40k Army, but I have yet to receive a core rule book that I have ordered. However, I do have the Space Marine book and have constructed a &lt;strong&gt;Gladius Strike Force&lt;/strong&gt; that includes the base core requirements (1captain/chaplain, 3 tactical squads, an attack bike, and 1 devestator squad) with a handfull of auxiliary components. &lt;strong&gt;If the cost of this met whatever allowance a match had, would this be considered a Battle-Forged army?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:03:09.233" Title="Is the following considered battle-forged?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28567" CreationDate="2016-01-24T22:37:28.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of things you can do to make it less likely you'll get crippled:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pick a character with balanced starting stats - &lt;strong&gt;Brandon Jaspers&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Peter Akimoto&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Jenny LeClerc&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Madam Zostra&lt;/strong&gt; all start with three of their stats on 4 and the 4th on 3.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a room that boosts your stats (Chapel, Gymnasium, Larder, Library) appears, make your way there immediately if the haunt hasn't started yet (if the haunt has already started you may have more important things to do).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I love the game it is pretty random and you have to accept that sometimes you get screwed. It's worth pointing out that you can't die until the haunt starts, in case you missed that rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2016-01-24T22:37:28.280" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28585" CreationDate="2016-01-25T00:07:29.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.larryco.com/bridge-learning-center/detail/315&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Larry Cohen here&lt;/a&gt; explicitly provides, as an example of &lt;em&gt;failing&lt;/em&gt; the Rule of Fifteen, this eleven point hand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: 3&#xA;H: K J 5 4&#xA;D: K J 8 7&#xA;C: K 9 8 7&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, he proposes the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;CRIFS&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; variant - &lt;em&gt;Cohen's Rule in Fourth Seat&lt;/em&gt; - Whenever the &lt;em&gt;Pearson Points&lt;/em&gt; count (HCP + # of Spades) is between 14 and 16, instead assess your opponents. If they are amongst the better players of your club pass, and if they are amongst the weaker players of your club bid. To quote Cohen directly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Who needs to open and have to do battle with an expert pair who will fight hard for the partscore and play or defend well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In regards *vulnerability, I see that as irrelevant at this decision point. The amount by which one goes plus or minus instead of taking a zero score is of much less significance than assessing the relative likelihood of each. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T16:13:25.553" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T16:13:25.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28594" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28585" CreationDate="2016-01-25T00:58:06.793" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rule of 13 trumps Rule of 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have 13 points you open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read the first few sentences of the article you linked, it says clearly you only apply that when you have 9-12 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T00:58:06.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28597" CreationDate="2016-01-25T11:50:18.397" Score="2" ViewCount="297" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing Arkham Horror with a herald. In the Herald variant rules, it doesn't say to shuffle the new cards in their respective decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that the herald variant is played without the new cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15066" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T13:23:50.197" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T13:23:50.197" Title="Arkham Horror heralds with new cards" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28596" CreationDate="2016-01-25T12:27:43.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means that the variant only describes the rules that are different than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that it also doesn't say to shuffle the old cards in their respective decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This variant doesn't prevent you from using other components from the same expansion, components from other expansions, or rules from other variants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T12:27:43.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28604" CreationDate="2016-01-25T13:57:54.597" Score="8" ViewCount="359" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember playing a slightly Go-like game in primary school, using pen and paper. Both players have a pen of their own color (typically pencil and ballpoint) and take turns drawing dots at intersections of a rectangular grid. We called it Pistepeli (&quot;point game&quot; in Finnish) but Google doesn't find anything relevant with that name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The objective is to surround some of the other player's dots, gaining a point for each one. This is done by completely encircling them, drawing a winding line connecting your own adjacent dots (along the 8 compass directions), only when you have managed to place all the required dots so the line will loop back to its starting point. You may not use your own dots that the opponent has already encircled, but you may re-use your own lines to draw an encircled area next to an existing one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may enclose as many areas as you can during your turn, after placing a dot. The game continues until time runs out or there's a dot at every intersection on the paper, and then the game is scored by counting opponent dots each player has surrounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't remember if there was a rule that drawn dots must be next to an existing dot or specifically also of the opposite color, and how edges of the playing area were treated. Possibly it was forbidden to surround your own dots and/or empty intersections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15069" LastEditorUserId="15069" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T14:40:45.977" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:29:58.647" Title="Does this Go-like game have a name?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:08:01.917" Score="5" ViewCount="2500" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the rules when two or more people go out when they are on the bubble for payout.&#xA;For example, the top 6 players will get money back and there are 7 people left.  The next hand results in 3 or more people going All-In, ultimately leaving one winner.  The other two guys don't have enough to cover so they are both out.  Who gets 6th place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15071" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:03:50.063" Title="What are the rules when two or more people go out when they are on the bubble for payout" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28600" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T14:37:29.610" Score="6" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the dealer.  The person to the left tells me to pick it up.  He plays before I discard.  As a result of the fast play, I forget to discard, and in the end of the play, I'm obviously holding onto one extra card.  Does the official play begin at the discard?  Or am I penalized for not discarding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15072" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-20T15:08:42.190" LastActivityDate="2017-03-20T15:08:42.190" Title="When does play begin in Euchre?" Tags="|euchre|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28600" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:00:16.660" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Officially play does not begin until the dealer has discarded. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(take the following quote with a grain of salt, there are tons of euchre variants and home rules that may contradict this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.euchrelinks.com/rules.html&quot;&gt;http://www.euchrelinks.com/rules.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;XIII. If the eldest-hand leads before the dealer has discarded, he&#xA;  cannot withdraw his card and change his lead, nor can the dealer be&#xA;  deprived of his right to play alone. The discard is not completed&#xA;  until the dealer places his card under the kitty, or on the table, and&#xA;  has quitted it; and when the dealer has once quitted the discarded&#xA;  card, he cannot change it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;XVIII. If any player plays with six or more cards, or, if the dealer&#xA;  plays and omits to discard and fails to announce the fact before three&#xA;  tricks have been turned, such player or dealer cannot count the point,&#xA;  or points, made on their side in the hand, and they lose the deal. But&#xA;  if the adverse party win under such circumstances, they are entitled&#xA;  to count all they make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had stopped play and discarded after the first card(s) were played, they cannot be un-play their card once you discard (and you can use that information to choose a discard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you did not discard and played the hand with 6 cards, you cannot score points this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastEditorUserId="3128" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T15:08:25.173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:08:25.173" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28599" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:03:50.063" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When multiple players are eliminated in the same hand, the player with the least amount of chips at the start of the hand will receive the worst of the available placements, followed by the player that had started with the next least, as so on.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, this is because main and side pots are technically resolved one at a time, and elimination can happen after any single pot resolution.   To extend your example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose there are 7 players.  At the start of the hand:&#xA;A has 500 chips&#xA;B has 400 chips&#xA;C has 300 chips&#xA;D has 150 chips&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;chip counts for E, F, G don't matter for this example.  For sake of simplicity, assume none of them bet any chips during this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the end of the hand, players A, B, C, and D have all gone all-in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Main pot contains 600 chips (D's 150 plus a matching amount from each of the other three players).  All players are eligible to win this pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side pot 1 contains 450 chips (C's remaining 150 plus a matching amount from each of A and B).  A, B, and C are eligible to win this pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side pot 2 contains 200 chips (B's remaining 100 plus a matching amount from A).  A and B are eligible to win this pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side pot 3 contains 100 chips from A and is immediately returned to A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume A or B wins the hand for this example.&#xA;The main pot is resolved first.  D did not win and therefore is eliminated, receiving 7th place and no prize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Side pot 1 is resolved next.  C did not win and therefore is eliminated, receiving 6th place and the associated prize.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(While rare, it is possible for multiple players to be eliminated in the same resolution step.  I assume in this case that the players would share the ranking and the associated winnings.  I don't know what would happen if it was a non-fungible prize, such as top 2 winners advance to next tournament while 2nd and 3rd place tie.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:03:50.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28598" CreationDate="2016-01-25T15:29:58.647" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In English, this game is called, appropriately enough, &lt;em&gt;Dots&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dots_%28game%29&quot;&gt;wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; describing the game and showing an example of gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T15:29:58.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28605" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T17:45:28.833" Score="1" ViewCount="1798" Body="&lt;p&gt;Traditionally, you're supposed to have 60 cards in your main deck, and 15 cards in your sideboard.  But let's say that I had 64 cards in my main deck and 15 cards in my sideboard.  For game 2 &amp;amp; 3, could I reduce my main deck to 60 cards and effectively have 4 more cards in my sideboard, or do I have to keep my main deck at 64 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastEditorUserId="7007" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T17:52:02.173" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:52:02.173" Title="Can my deck have fewer cards after sideboard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-25T18:15:36.647" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28605" CreationDate="2016-01-25T17:49:59.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you can not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;100.4a&lt;/strong&gt; In constructed play, a sideboard may contain no more than fifteen cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you brought your deck down to 60 cards, at that point your sideboard would be 19 cards, violating this rule. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:49:59.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28605" CreationDate="2016-01-25T17:50:51.540" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can in fact change your deck size after sideboarding, with restrictions. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Magic Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;, section 6.1 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Constructed decks must contain a minimum of sixty cards. There is no maximum deck size. If a player chooses to use a sideboard, &lt;strong&gt;it may not contain more than fifteen cards&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And section 6.2 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may exchange any number of cards between their deck and sideboard, provided that the resulting deck and sideboard are legal. There are no restrictions on the number of cards a player may exchange this way. Cards do not need to be exchanged on a one-for-one basis.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you can move a different number of cards into your sideboard and into your deck, but when you're done, you still have to have at least 60 cards in your deck and at most 15 cards in your sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specific case, you cannot decrease your deck size because your sideboard is already at the maximum size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T17:50:51.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28610" CreationDate="2016-01-25T18:11:49.293" Score="3" ViewCount="279" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spilt some beer on a hand of 7 Wonders cards last night, and it had the potential to completely ruin the cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As it was, managed to prevent too much serious damage by carefully sliding the cards apart and drying them off with paper towels. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am wondering generally for boardgames what the best ways to minimise damage from beer spills are - other than being careful not to spill beer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:24:10.960" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T22:26:18.537" Title="Preventing/minimising damage from beer spills" Tags="|storage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28609" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28611" CreationDate="2016-01-25T18:15:25.650" Score="2" ViewCount="382" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't see how a 4 player game cannot go but one way, every time, if the following (rational) rule applies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You attack whoever is weaker than you but poses a threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you have four players. All roughly equal strength (normal distribution, variance proportional to time). The following sequence occurs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A becomes stronger than another (B)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A attacks B because they are likely to win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B is defeated (-10 strength), but player A is also weaker due to attacking and unable to defend simultaneously (-5).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C is now stronger than A, so they attack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A is defeated (-10 strength), but player C is also weaker due to attacking, but less so because player A was already weakened, so -3 strength for player C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player D is now strongest, and attacks the next strongest player, C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player C (likely) loses, player D is now most likely to be victorious.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, whoever attacks first starts a cascade of attacks, A-&gt;B, C-&gt;A, D-&gt;C, where the greatest advantage is to whoever attacks later, or latest, after everyone else is done weakening each other. And whoever attacks first is most disadvantaged overall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless some massive swing of luck where someone can beat the odds stacked against them, or some alliance mechanics are introduced, how can the game possibly deviate from this pattern, if only for exceptional cases?&#xA;Other than relying on people making irrational decisions (attacking someone stronger, or someone not a threat to their victory)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is a more general 4 way zero-sum game problem, but Eclipse is the example I'm thinking of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: I think this bit of game theory, about 3 way duels, basically proves there's only one optimal way to play Eclipse FFA. Don't play.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Truel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5242" LastEditorUserId="5242" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T16:58:23.523" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T16:58:23.523" Title="Eclipse 4 player FFA Convergent Strategy" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28608" CreationDate="2016-01-25T18:19:10.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could potentially get sleeves for your cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case it looks like some companies make sleeves specifically for 7 wonders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T18:19:10.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28609" CreationDate="2016-01-25T18:49:39.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the pattern you propose, players A, B, and C all come out losing, and given what you propose, they should have known they would come out losing. Thus, they didn't make the best choice for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is true that Eclipse, unlike most Eurogames I've played, rewards attacking weaker players, as opposed to encouraging you to go after the person in the lead to prevent him from winning. However, there are a few things that players could have done differently in your scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build up more&lt;/strong&gt;. A shouldn't have attacked B when he did. If he knew that this would leave him weaker than C and thus be attacked by C, then he shouldn't have done it. Instead, he could have continued to build up, to a point where attacking B wouldn't weaken him when he does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way to do this is to rely on missiles instead of cannons. This tends to be very strong in the base game anyway. But when you win with missiles, you walk away as strong as you were when you went into the battle; rather than both sides taking casualties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In games I've played, often attacking doesn't happen until the last several rounds. The beginning of the game is all about building up, and attacking only ancient ships that you are pretty sure you can beat without losses.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Teaming up&lt;/strong&gt;. In the Rise of the Ancients expansion, you can officially team up, but even without that you can make alliances. If A was the strongest, then B, C, and D could have worked together to go after him. While you can't actually team up in a given battle, each player could attack a different one of A's territories, leaving him unable to defend them all.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Take chances&lt;/strong&gt;. It doesn't require a &quot;massive swing of luck&quot; to defeat an opponent that has better odds than you do. Sometimes a better opponent may just have a 60% chance of winning. Even though you wouldn't generally attack someone in that position, there are times when taking that 40% chance of victory is your best hope at winning the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, on the other side, don't automatically attack someone just because the odds are in your favor. Even if you have a 75% chance of winning, often the penalty for losing will be enough that it's not worth the risk.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rock-Paper-Scissors&lt;/strong&gt;. This isn't a strategy to follow, but just a fact about the game. It is not always the case that just because A is stronger than B, and B is stronger than C, that A is stronger than C. A may be strong against things that B has, but weak against things that C has. This is especially true of things like missiles vs extra hulls. Consider this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A has missiles and no extra hulls or cannons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B has lots of cannons and a few extra hulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player C has many hulls and a single cannon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, A will usually defeat B. B will usually defeat C. And C will usually defeat A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows that you can's simply order players in order of strongest to weakest.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T18:49:39.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2016-01-25T19:39:47.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I like to play Agricola campaign mode is to pick 7 occupations and then play through sequentially. Each game I leave one more in play as permanent and leave the others in my hand in future games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Probably my favorite seven to start with are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Field Watchmen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wet Nurse&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Church Warden&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lord of the Manor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manservant&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grocer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pieceworker&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally like them in this order (and leave them in descending order, too, so the first permanent one is Field Watchmen). First game get the Stone Oven for food production, doing double baking bread, by sowing 3 grain fields before the first harvest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My first turns normally are something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Occupation (Field Watchman) / Take 1 Grain&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take 1 Grain / Day Laborer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take 1 Grain / Sow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Clay (4) / Fishing (for 4 food)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you've got 3 sown fields of grain, clay, and your next turns can look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fireplace / Wet Nurse (with grain--&gt;food)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wood (12) / Reed (6)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheep to food (7x = 14 food) / build rooms (+2 people)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point you have some leftover food from the sheep still (only needed 8 that round) and are pretty setup. The rest is pretty straightforward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I normally setup the board slightly, forcing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sheep = round 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stone = round 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest don't matter as much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This combined with the above normally lets you get 65-70 points your first game, which then gives you 10+ food for your next starting game.  Wet Nurse is critical  in the campaign because once you get food supplies you can always add two rooms to your house on Turn 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start getting significant quantities of food at beginning - which you will after your first game because it's pretty easy to have 15+ points over the game point values initially  and you get 1 food for every 2 points over -  the Pieceworker/Grocer become &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; useful and powerful, because you can buy extra resources earlier in the game (such as vegetables and stone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a few games of occupations, Manservant becomes very useful - it's easy to get a Stone House with 5+ turns remaining in the game after a few solo rounds so you get basically 15 food for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, I like to also leave all the animals on the board until the last round (except I normally take sheep for food around turn 6/7, early enough when the food is helpful but also can let them replenish to 7 by the game end). Your first game this is often harder because you &lt;em&gt;normally&lt;/em&gt; need to raid one of the animals for food and often can't swing the 4x Stable/3x pasture combination to give you space for all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of minor improvements that can make this strategy go on steroids too (like Axe, which means you can reliably add family members prior to the first harvest if you start with Church Warden and get the 4 immediate wood). Or Straw Thatched Roof which gives you &lt;em&gt;three&lt;/em&gt; extra rooms with people pretty early with Church Warden, Wet Nurse, and Pieceworker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14253" LastEditorUserId="14253" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T20:21:39.327" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T20:21:39.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11659" CreationDate="2016-01-25T20:51:56.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 3rd edition is coming soon... The new fuel strip will make the game much faster with very intuitive and straightforward fuel calculations, the main game stopper.&#xA;And what about Colonization and Exomigration/Exploration/Simulation (incl. Bernals start on the ground) on top? And a multiplayer Interstellar afterwards? This game is like a mini campaign. The replayability using all the advanced and expert scenarios is tremendous. Divide your game into multiple sessions with the following checkpoints: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;basic amount of factories reached &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;first lab established &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;end of Colonization game &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;end of Interstellar game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new Exomigration rules are making politics much more interesting. The new Exploration rules give a deep theme to Glories and Ventures with likely different paths each time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may also borrow the mechanics of Rebalance (from PC verison of Voyage of the BSM Pandora) and after a play, reduce VPs for successful Glories, Ventures and Futures and increase VPs for the rest of the Glories, Ventures and Futures. Remembering each games' achievments and adjusting the yet-unconquered ones will guarantee that your gamers group will eventually explore all the possible paths to victory like in a typical Legacy multi-game campaign.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another rebalance possibility comes from factions - choose new factions each new game and mix the radical and standard ones with one another. If a specific faction wins a game, adjust a handicup for all the factions (reduce the starting WT for winners, increase for losers). After several plays things will settle on optimized, if not balanced in your group due to a lack of knowledge of how to play a specific faciton. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are advanced in algorithms, you can also balance not a single faction this way, but spread the balance into two domains: the colour of the player and the ability of the player so that if e.g. NASA wins, NASA will lose 2WT, ISRO will lose 1WT and SpaceX 1WT, while others will randomly share the increase of the lost 4WT to balance the overall amount of water to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15080" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-01-25T21:50:51.383" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T21:50:51.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28614" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:26:10.653" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kung-Fu Chess is a real-time chess variant without turns where players may freely move their pieces, subject to a delay period of a few seconds after a move during which a piece cannot be moved again. The current online version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kung-Fu_Chess&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kung-Fu Chess&lt;/a&gt; is Judo Chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an &amp;quot;analog&amp;quot; version of Kung-Fu Chess which can be played on a standard chess board (i.e., not on a computer)? Is this even feasible or would it be impossible to implement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12372" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditDate="2020-12-31T05:49:51.047" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T05:49:51.047" Title="&quot;Analog&quot; version of Kung-Fu Chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28614" CreationDate="2016-01-25T21:57:42.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;At first this seemed very infeasible to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You would need a 3 second timer for every piece.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need a way to prevent simultaneous claims of single board spaces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After giving it some thought, I came up with a possible implementation. You would need a board with a socket for each square. When a piece is inserted into this socket, it is held in place by the socket for 3 seconds. Each piece would then need an indicator so you can see whether or not it can be moved (based on the status of the socket) and a button to remove it within the 3 second timeframe in case it's been captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two people simultaneously using both hands to move 32 pieces on a 50x50cm chess board still seems like a bad idea. The board would have to be a bit bigger than a normal chess board, with more distance between the pieces. This will mitigate the problem but for the most part this will have to be &quot;part of the game&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T11:04:19.043" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T11:04:19.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9731" CreationDate="2016-01-25T22:05:41.033" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a role-playing game, you spend about 80% of your time NOT using (or referencing to) the game rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try not using the rules in a board game for even a little time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15082" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T22:05:41.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28608" CreationDate="2016-01-25T22:26:18.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to protect cards from being damaged in a situation like this you need to take two actions. First and foremost you need to sleeve your cards and generally you can find card sleeves designed for any card game. Second and most importantly you need to be careful with any food/beverages that are going to be in the gaming area. While sleeves may be good at protecting cards they still have openings where liquid and other matter can get in and damage the cards. When this happens you not only have to deal with cleaning the card but most likely have to replace the card sleeve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general unless you have a sleeve that can form a water tight seal around the card you will always need to be careful with your food/beverages as the sleeve is just something to help protect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-01-25T22:26:18.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T06:57:11.887" Score="1" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Strike&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; (that costs 2 mana) and I have 6 mana, can I use the card 3 times?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In an online Magic game I played, I had this specific card also. When I casted it, it asked me how many times I wanted to use it. To be honest, it sounds like this would make the card too overpowered so I wanted to know for sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answer is yes, please explain me exactly how it works. E.g. which spells can do it and which can't? Can the effects be divided with each cast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15086" LastEditorUserId="14089" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T14:33:51.160" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:13:37.153" Title="Can I use one spell multiple times" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28620" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-26T07:06:40.010" Score="3" ViewCount="1046" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I summon a creature like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Boneyard%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Boneyard Wurm&lt;/a&gt; whose power and toughness depends on the number of creatures in my graveyard, and afterwards another creature of mine dies, do the Boneyard Wurm's power and toughness increase? What about the opposite: if a creature card is removed from my graveyard, do its power and toughness decrease?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15087" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T07:17:23.657" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T07:20:40.207" Title="Creatures with variable power and toughness" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28620" CreationDate="2016-01-26T07:20:40.207" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that creature's power and toughness will change as the number of creatures in your graveyard changes. It doesn't say something weird like &quot;when it enters the battlefield, count the creatures in your graveyard, etc etc&quot;. It just says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Boneyard Wurm's power and toughness are each equal to the number of creature cards in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that's what it does. However many creature cards are in your graveyard right at this moment, that's its power and toughness. Add one, they go up by one, remove one, they go down by one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T07:20:40.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28619" CreationDate="2016-01-26T08:06:50.680" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't cast it multiple times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the spell is resolved it is put into your graveyard (the discard pile).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some spells that, for example, return to your hand so you can cast them again. But all such exceptions are written on the spell card itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T08:13:37.153" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T08:13:37.153" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28623" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23909" CreationDate="2016-01-26T08:09:54.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question, &quot;What is the post 2008 monopoly currency symbol called (M with two lines through it)&quot;, according to the game Monopoly Millionaires and recent online variations, it is called the Monopole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15088" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T08:09:54.877" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28625" CreationDate="2016-01-26T09:24:19.600" Score="3" ViewCount="249" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tidehollow%20Sculler&quot;&gt;Tidehollow Sculler&lt;/a&gt; and remove a card from the game then I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruin%20Processor&quot;&gt;Ruin Processor&lt;/a&gt; to put that card to the graveyard, would my opponent return the card from graveyard to hand when Tidehollow Sculler dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14057" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T09:35:24.527" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T10:35:55.513" Title="Tidehollow Sculler and Ruin Processor" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28624" CreationDate="2016-01-26T09:38:25.157" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, it would not return to your opponent's hand that way.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for that is that the previously exiled card is no longer in exile. It explicitly says that it moves the card from exile to opponent's hand, but the card is no longer in exile by that time, so it's trying to do something impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the object represented by that card stops existing when it changes zones, and a new object is created, represented by the same card. There are some exceptions that allow objects to be tracked across zones, but none of them apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T10:35:55.513" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T10:35:55.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28626" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28963" CreationDate="2016-01-26T09:56:21.907" Score="2" ViewCount="1686" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say player &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; has a spell that kills player &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; (and any other survivors by the time &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; dies).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Well, it turns out that &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; has a reaction card waiting that will kill &lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; (but not save &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt;)! Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This depends on when reactions happen. Obviously at the table, reactions happen after you die, but in game terms they seem to resolve before, or at the same time as your death (evidenced by reactions that enable you to survive damage). Thus there are three potential outcomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; wins because they were were necessarily &lt;em&gt;already&lt;/em&gt; the last wizard standing for the reaction to trigger. (reasonably likely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; both win because each of them killed their last remaining foe. (most fun)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B&lt;/strong&gt; wins because reactions take place before the lethal damage. (less likely)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this happened, we agreed to go with the &quot;most awesome&quot; result that fits the game's flavour of rewarding (or not punishing) glorious death, which caused a joint win. Everyone was happy with this as a conclusion to a 6 player game with 5 LWS tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I'm curious if there's an official ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T10:19:54.907" LastActivityDate="2019-07-22T05:30:35.827" Title="Who wins when the would-be last wizard standing is killed by a reaction?" Tags="|epic-spell-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29088" CreationDate="2016-01-26T10:11:09.320" Score="2" ViewCount="1304" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a source that heals you for each creature in play. Obviously creatures already kept (both yours and your opponents) count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, do unresolved creatures in your own spell count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T11:11:55.063" Title="What counts as a creature &quot;in play&quot;?" Tags="|epic-spell-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28619" CreationDate="2016-01-26T13:44:31.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't say somewhere you can, then you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless either the card itself or something else in play says &quot;...you can cast this/that multiple times...&quot; then you can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either you're misinterpreting what happened in that game, or that game is not made to play with the same rules as Magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seriously - best rule to go by - &lt;i&gt;Unless it says you can, you can't.&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T13:44:31.863" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28631" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:29:42.607" Score="4" ViewCount="1449" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an idea for an Instant mil combo involving the below cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grindclock&quot;&gt;Grindclock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clock%20of%20Omens&quot;&gt;Clock of Omens&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Palladium%20Myr&quot;&gt;Palladium Myr&lt;/a&gt; x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Myr%20Galvanizer&quot;&gt;Myr Galvanizer&lt;/a&gt; x2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Forge&quot;&gt;Darksteel Forge&lt;/a&gt; (just so they cant be destroyed, always helpful)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering how I would have to order my tapping to allow me to build up 60+ counters on Grindclock, to then mil for 60+ cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I'd need to tap Palladium Myr and Grindclock first, but then it gets slightly difficult. Can anyone provide me with the Order in which I would have to tap these permanents to create the infinite mil and manna Loop in kind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T15:35:42.387" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:39:14.133" Title="Issues with Infinite Mana Loop and Grindclock/ Clock of Omens Combo" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28630" CreationDate="2016-01-26T15:39:14.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Grindclock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap both Palladium to float 4x colorless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend colorless to activate Galvanizer and untap Palladiums&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap both Palladium to untap Grindclock (clock of omens)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap Grindclock&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend colorless to activate Galvanizer and untap Palladiums and Galvanizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap both Palladium to float 4x colorless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spend colorless to activate Galvanizer and untap Palladiums and Galvanizer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goto step 4. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T15:39:14.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28635" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:03:50.690" Score="11" ViewCount="2137" Body="&lt;p&gt;More often than not it doesn't matter, you cast a spell and it either lands in its designated spot on the field, or it resolves and heads into the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I always wondered is, whenever there is a complicated situation playing out in the stack, is there a specific place you are &lt;strong&gt;supposed to&lt;/strong&gt; put your cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1) I play Storm Crow&#xA;2) My opponent casts Dissipate targeting Storm Crow&#xA;3) I play Negate targeting Dissipate &#xA;4) My opponent plays Cancel targeting Negate&#xA;5) I play Counterflux targeting Cancel&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While all this is happening, is it 'acceptable' to simply lay the cards down on the play-space or for official, tournament-level play do I need to immediately place my cards in the graveyard and simply remember they are on the stack in their particular order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T17:19:01.527" Title="Etiquette for the Stack in MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|etiquette|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:18:19.927" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only is it &amp;quot;acceptable&amp;quot; to lay the cards down on the play space, but it is required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;CR 608.2k&lt;/strong&gt; As the final part of an instant or sorcery spell’s resolution, the spell is put into its owner’s graveyard. As the final part of an ability’s resolution, the ability is removed from the stack and ceases to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instants and sorcery cards don't go into the graveyard until they resolve. This is actually quite important for certain abilities. Using your example, if you don't have a Counterflux, you won't be able to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; to give the Negate you cast in step 3 flashback in step 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="632" LastEditorUserId="632" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T16:29:03.527" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T16:29:03.527" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:23:13.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While a card is on the stack, it is not in the graveyard. If you wanted the cards to enter the graveyard (say you wanted to play a Delve counterspell), you let part of the stack resolve. As the stack resolves, cards enter the graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the card is on the stack, it doesn't really matter where it is, as long as it is visible and clear that the card is being played and is on the stack. So, you could play your Crow in the middle, then each counterspell on top/next to the crow as you play them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-01-26T17:19:01.527" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T17:19:01.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:46:51.133" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is legal?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards go on the stack when you cast them. They remain there until they resolve or are otherwise removed from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According the the Tournament Rules, the current zone of any object is free information. The stack is a zone. Therefore, the presence of an object on the stack is free information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not matter where the card physically goes, so long as it is clear that it is on the stack. You are not allowed to obscure or otherwise misrepresent the presence of an object in a zone, because it is free information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is considered good etiquette?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no official etiquette about where in the table you should play your spells and how exactly a complex stack should be built.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play in a lot of tournaments, and most players put the card somewhere on the table where everyone can see it. Some players (incorrectly) put the card straight into their graveyards. Some players like to play the card behind their lands, perhaps to gain some kind of advantage by making it slightly more difficult for me to read. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we build a complex stack, very rarely do we build an actual physical stack. To do that requires the cooperation of both players, and it also requires that all of the spells be tangible cards (i.e., not a trigger or an activated ability). Perhaps the most common situation in which I see a stack built with cards is during a counterspell war, such as the example you gave in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T16:46:51.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28632" CreationDate="2016-01-26T16:47:01.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rule that specifically governs the physical location of cards on the stack, so you should put them wherever makes the game state clearest. That usually means that you should put them in an actual stack in the play area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Instants and Sorceries go to the graveyard when they resolve, if you put them in the graveyard immediately, you are obscuring which ones have already resolved. This makes it more difficult for your opponent (and for you) to tell what the stack actually is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T16:47:01.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22553" CreationDate="2016-01-26T20:53:56.913" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no way to know your opponent's strength based on the information you posted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;KGS adds the question mark to alert you about an unreliable rating, because that account has played too few games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another clue is the graph itself. Important variations like this are typical of accounts with few games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe that person only played one game in February 2014, and his opponent lost on time? Who knows...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T20:53:56.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28619" CreationDate="2016-01-26T23:19:18.747" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules only give you permission to cast a spell when you have priority and to cast spells from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the first steps in casting a spell is to take the spell from you hand and to put it on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you start casting a spell you can't do anything else until you finish casting the spell (that is putting the spell on the stack, which is different to having the spell resolve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the spell is on the stack, it is no longer in your hand for you to cast again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-26T23:19:18.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28640" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28647" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:39:29.903" Score="1" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I started looking up &lt;em&gt;Warhammer 40k&lt;/em&gt;, I had selected the regular Space Marine book and a few models as a reference. After finding out how incredibly powerful scouts could become, I decided that a good chunk of my forces would be scouts; luckily, I found a specific chapter online that did just that: &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Storm_Giants&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Storm Giants&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Unfortunately, I found out later that Storm Giants are not a selectable chapter in the Codex, only the vastly different &lt;a href=&quot;http://warhammer40k.wikia.com/wiki/Storm_Lords&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Storm Lords&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. So, considering that specific chapters in the codex get a bonus for every unit being from that chapter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;strong&gt;Are the Storm Giants listed in a specific Codex?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And second, &lt;strong&gt;What chapter would the Storm Giants be considered as far as bonuses go?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-04T02:08:13.677" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T02:08:13.677" Title="What are the rules for Storm Giants?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5458" CreationDate="2016-01-27T03:41:47.847" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your local community probably has a facebook group where things like this are brought and sold. As they are local they can be a great option as they might be able to pick them up in person instead of paying large amounts for shipping lots of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T03:41:47.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28642" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29107" CreationDate="2016-01-27T09:34:21.627" Score="7" ViewCount="8225" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've completed the 11 quests in the base &lt;em&gt;Zombicide: Black Plague!&lt;/em&gt; box (i.e. 1 necromancer, 1 abomination, no expansions), and I found that Clovis and Samson consistently lagged behind in terms of experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other survivors have easy to identify roles (Ann and Nelly are fast, so have rapid response roles. Baldric and Silas have fire support roles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;what roles do Clovis and Samson fulfill that allows them to keep up in terms of experience?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. As a group we try to make sure we level up together, which works well until the orange danger level, where the other survivors shoot up. We also try to compensate by having Clovis and Samson score objectives when they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T08:29:00.033" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T19:50:39.990" Title="Zombicide: Black Plague! Strategy suggestions for Clovis and Samson" Tags="|tactics|zombicide|zombicide-black-plague|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11004" CreationDate="2016-01-27T15:58:50.487" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For opening suit bids no, emphatically not. The reason is simple mathematics in that when you open (in 1st or 2nd seat) you have no idea whether your side is looking at part score, game, or slam; and the appropriate aggressiveness towards each of these levels varies differently with vulnerability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relative worth of game to part-score goes &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;up&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; with vulnerability so it is appropriate to bid slightly more aggressively towards vulnerable games at IMP (and Rubber, both Four-Deal/Chicago and standard) scoring.  For example, it is appropriate to bid a non-vulnerable game with a 50% chance to make (ie requiring only a finesse) and appropriate to bid a vulnerable game with a 35% chance to make (requiring a finesse &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; a 3-2 break).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the relative worth of slam to game goes &lt;strong&gt;down&lt;/strong&gt; when vulnerable, so one should be slightly more cautious bidding vulnerable slams at IMPS. It is now appropriate to bid a non-vulnerable small slam with a 50% chance to make but only appropriate to bid a vulnerable small slam with a 65% chance to make (roughly requiring only a 3-2 break).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Empirically, these percentage differences are often estimated as representing about a 1 or 1.5 point difference in partnership combined strength, when better information is not available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third seat openings however can probably discount the possibility of slam when holding minimum values, so here the logic is that one should open slightly &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;more&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; aggressively, not less, when vulnerable, because of the increased relative value of game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is all nearly the complete opposite of your suggestion. Only when making a competitive part-score decision or a preemptive opening does the logic of the question hold true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, until you know which levels your partnership is aiming for, it is inappropriate to adjust your bidding. This is done by having the inviter, only, make the adjustment and only with the inviting bid. Then the partnership can rely on all other calls being standard, allowing more consistent decisions to be made by the partnership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, in regards Grand Slam bidding, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/pdf/crane_11_commandments_vince_remey.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Barry Crane&lt;/a&gt; (and the Four Aces before him) had a commandment to never bid grand slam in Swiss Teams (&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;my emphasis&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The caution about not bidding grand slams in Swiss Teams made a lot of sense particularly if&#xA;  your opponents are not all that skillful as nothing is more demoralizing than to go down one at&#xA;  seven while the other team only reached game. In fact, I remember the original Four Aces of forty&#xA;  or more years ago had a rule that &lt;strong&gt;if you bid seven once and went down you would be forgiven but&#xA;  if you did it the second time you were off the team.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Revisiting, for Matchpoints:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above discussion is entirely intended to guide bidding in IMPS, Chicago, or Rubber scoring. In Matchpoints, different considerations apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Matchpoints the amount by which you gain or lose compared to the field is irrelevant. Rather the number of times you are plus or minus to the field is paramount. This means that far more decisions should be made purely on a basis of &#xA;whether or not they succeed a straight 50% of the time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a touch-and-go game in a major that can be made only on a favourable lead &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; finding a subtle endplay. Here is a Matchpoint analysis for a case of likelihood for the four cases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Contract                 Raw Score  &#xA;&amp;amp; Result                  NV   V    #   MPs  &#xA;Bid 4 making 10 tricks:  420  620   2  11.0  &#xA;Bid 3 making 10 tricks:  170  170   2   9.0  &#xA;Bid 3 making  9 tricks:  140  140   4   6.0  &#xA;Bid 4 making  9 tricks:  -50 -100   4   2.0  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both case, simply making the 10th trick without bidding it is both sufficient to generate a good to excellent Matchpoint score, and avoids the risk of a terrible one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the nearly 5 decades I have been playing bridge, the quality of my game (at Matchpoints) has almost never been from the number of tops partner and I got - it is almost always a consequence of all the available bottoms that we &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;didn't&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2019-11-09T22:53:50.813" LastActivityDate="2019-11-09T22:53:50.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28591" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:26:52.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your choice really. If you take a formation you generally aren't Battle Forged (you get formation benefits instead)... However all you need to be Battle Forged is an &lt;strong&gt;HQ&lt;/strong&gt; and two &lt;strong&gt;Troops&lt;/strong&gt;. If your formation includes that you can choose whether to play it as Battle Forged or as the Formation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T17:26:52.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28691" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:50:27.307" Score="3" ViewCount="255" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll use &quot;weak two&quot; bids as a frame of reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding of a &quot;weak two&quot; bid is that it is usually made with six cards of a suit, and at least five high card points (hcps). If that's all, they will be in the suit, that is KQxxxx or AJxxxx, and this would be done mainly at favorable vulnerability (not vulnerable vs. vulnerable). At equal vulnerability, you need either another honor in-suit (e.g. KQJxxx) or a side suit honor. At unfavorable vulnerability (vulnerable vs. not), you need both, for a maximum of about 10 hcps.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;strong &quot;pre-empt&quot; at the three level would have the values for a &quot;weak two&quot; bid with a seventh card.  The theory is that the extra &quot;trump&quot; would compensate (on offense) for the higher level, so you would go down as much as for a &quot;weak two&quot; bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A weak &quot;pre-empt&quot; would have the seventh card, but be about a queen lighter (and less likely to have the side value) than a weak two bid. It might range in strength from QTxxxxx to AQJxxxx with little or nothing outside. The theory is that the extra suit card compensates for a king &quot;lighter,&quot; and your weaker defense (by one trick) means that you can &quot;afford&quot; to go down an additional trick on offense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are most expert pre-empters at least consistent within these two philosophies (or any other)? That is, do they pre-empt &quot;narrowly&quot; either with something like 5-10 hcps if using strong pre-empts, or 3-7 if &quot;weak?&quot; Or are there systems or experts that will run the whole gamut of say, 3-11 high card points for pre-empts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T23:42:37.053" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T23:42:37.053" Title="Do most good pre-empters do so within &quot;tight&quot; point ranges?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28640" CreationDate="2016-01-27T17:54:49.437" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the first wiki article you linked to, Storm Giants are most likely a successor chapter of the Salamanders, which means they should probably be played using Salamanders chapter tactics.  However, also according to the same wiki article you linked to, (in universe) the true founding chapter of the Storm Giants is unknown... The fact that it is the Salamanders is just the Imperium's best guess.  So really, the Strom Giants could be a successor of any chapter, and therefore you could use any chapter tactics you desire without breaking canon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Aslum pointed out, the references section of the first wiki page you linked to will give you more information. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Aslum deleted his post... However, his advice about checking out the books listed in the references section of the Storm Giants wiki page is spot on. (should you want a physical book reference)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15101" LastEditorUserId="15101" LastEditDate="2016-01-27T18:10:13.407" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T18:10:13.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28291" CreationDate="2016-01-27T18:02:02.887" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope, IWND is absolutely useless on any model with only one wound...and thus, wracks do not benefit from it in the slightest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only models which will really benefit from IWND are characters and Grotesques, since they have multiple wounds each.  In practice, however, Grotesques are the primary benefactors of the ability, since it is pretty easy to Instant Death a T3 or T4 character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15101" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T18:02:02.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28651" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-27T20:11:59.467" Score="1" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, &lt;code&gt;Free Action&lt;/code&gt; on a &lt;code&gt;New Rule&lt;/code&gt; means it doesn't count as a &lt;code&gt;Play&lt;/code&gt; when used. If I use the &lt;code&gt;Mystery Play&lt;/code&gt; rule or any of its analogues does it count as a &lt;code&gt;Play&lt;/code&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Analogues of &lt;code&gt;Mystery Play&lt;/code&gt; include (some with slight variations such as conditional requirements for use):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wormhole in Star Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic Shoes in Oz Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Egads! in Batman Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Open The Door in Monster Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic Portal in Adventure Time Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chemical X in Cartoon Network Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time Doorway in Regular Show Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great Idea! in Stoner Fluxx&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:11:59.467" Title="If I use a Mystery Play in Fluxx, does that count as a play?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28651" CreationDate="2016-01-27T20:11:59.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Free Actions&lt;/code&gt; do not count as a &lt;code&gt;Play&lt;/code&gt; so &lt;code&gt;Mystery Play&lt;/code&gt; and its analogues do not count as a &lt;code&gt;Play&lt;/code&gt; and can be used anytime during your turn either before, during, or after drawing and playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://faq.looneylabs.com/fluxx-games/faq-for-fluxx-unthemed-versions#723&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://faq.looneylabs.com/fluxx-games/faq-for-fluxx-unthemed-versions#723&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2016-01-27T20:11:59.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28653" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28683" CreationDate="2016-01-27T20:26:35.310" Score="3" ViewCount="676" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any online resources for studying gomoku? I am a beginner and I'd be interested to learn the fundamentals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A google search on terms such as &quot;gomoku strategy&quot; or &quot;gomoku tutorial&quot; didn't return any relevant answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:16:13.167" Title="Resources for studying gomoku" Tags="|gomoku|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28654" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28653" CreationDate="2016-01-28T01:20:35.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a nice overview of the game on Wikipedia along with a rules and variations section. Hope this helps.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gomoku&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gomoku&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14164" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T01:20:35.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28655" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T03:06:58.223" Score="0" ViewCount="928" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I Use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Plaguemaw%20Beast&quot;&gt;Plaguemaw Beast&lt;/a&gt;'s Activated ability of &amp;quot;{t}, sacrifice a creature: Proliferate&amp;quot; and then target &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vampire%20Hexmage&quot;&gt;Vampire Hexmage&lt;/a&gt; with the activated ability of &amp;quot;Sacrifice Vampire Hexmage: remove all counters from target permanent&amp;quot;, what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will Plaguemaw Beast force Hexmage to be sacrificed without being able to activate the ablity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will Plaguemaw Beast lose a valid target if Vampire Hexmage's ability is activated in response to sacrificed, so now Plaguemaw cannot Proliferate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the Plaguemaw Beast's ability activate along with Vampire Hexmage's Activated ablity with Hexmage as a target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15106" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T03:19:04.847" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:19:04.847" Title="Can I sacrifice the same creature twice?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-01-28T04:10:02.073" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28655" CreationDate="2016-01-28T03:16:43.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question is a bit unclear. If you're trying to sacrifice the Vampire Hexmage to pay for its own activated ability, and to satisfy the Plaguemaw Beast, then no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each Plaguemaw Beast and Vampire Hexmage, the act of sacrificing a creature is a part of the cost of activating the ability. If you fail to be able to pay the cost, the ability will fail to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T03:16:43.457" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28657" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-28T04:31:30.837" Score="0" ViewCount="1001" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Batman Cuffs card says you can hide a Creeper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does this mean that Creeper is now under your control?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can you hide someone else's Creeper?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens when you choose to unhide it? Is it yours or your opponents'?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unclear still on how the Batcuffs work based on these two official sources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://faq.looneylabs.com/fluxx-games/batman-fluxx#758&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Q: How exactly do the Batman Cuffs work?&lt;/a&gt; (Batman™ Fluxx FAQ),&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://looneylabs.ning.com/forum/topics/rules-question-batman-cuffs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://looneylabs.ning.com/forum/topics/rules-question-batman-cuffs&lt;/a&gt; (dead link, verified on 29.12.2020).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditDate="2020-12-30T01:05:02.263" LastActivityDate="2020-12-30T01:05:02.263" Title="How do the Batman Cuffs work in Batman Fluxx?" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28658" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28659" CreationDate="2016-01-28T04:39:54.127" Score="0" ViewCount="1477" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can my opponent cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turn%20to%20Frog&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt;, to prevent 'Enter the battlefield' abilities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T15:28:15.903" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:21:51.793" Title="Can Turn to Frog prevent 'enter the battlefield' abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28658" CreationDate="2016-01-28T04:50:30.147" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Turn to Frog can only be cast on creatures that have already entered the battlefield, so it can't prevent ETB abilities from triggering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T18:16:12.793" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T18:16:12.793" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28658" CreationDate="2016-01-28T05:57:55.450" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two cases of &amp;quot;Enter the Battlefield&amp;quot; abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the ability is on the creature entering the battlefield, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abbot%20of%20Keral%20Keep&quot;&gt;Abbot of Keral Keep&lt;/a&gt;, Turn to Frog isn't an answer. You can't target the creature until it has entered the battlefield. Once it has entered the battlefield, the Ability has already been triggered and is being added to the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if the ability is on a creature already on the battlefield, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Agent%20of%20Erebos&quot;&gt;Agent of Erebos&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ivy%20Lane%20Denizen&quot;&gt;Ivy Lane Denizen&lt;/a&gt;, Turn to Frog is a valid answer. In response to any number of effects that would cause creatures to enter the battlefield, casting Turn to Frog while they are on the stack will pre-empt the ability. Turn to Frog will resolve first, affecting the target with the Enter the battlefield effect. When other creatures enter the battlefield, the ability no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T05:57:55.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28657" CreationDate="2016-01-28T09:26:53.910" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The FAQ already answers part of your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: How exactly do the Batman Cuffs work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Yes, the wording on that Keeper is a bit vague. The intention is&#xA;  that you can hide one Creeper under the card on your turn. You can&#xA;  reveal it at any time, but the hiding can only be done on your turn.&#xA;  We will be updating the wording on subsequent print runs to make that&#xA;  clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remains the question if you can hide someone else's creeper. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We can'be sure what the intention is on this one. But based on several Fluxx set's I own, I assume you can't. There are a few cards that work on other player's creepers and these are spelled out. So it is not likely that you can use these for creepers you don't control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T09:26:53.910" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28653" CreationDate="2016-01-28T12:25:21.703" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played Gomoku before, but this is a solved game, as shown by Victor Allis. Gomoku is a sure win for the first player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I say solved, it has been solved for AI (similar to draughts/checkers), but I would suggest you check out the guidelines in Allis' paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mimuw.edu.pl/~awojna/SID/referaty/Go-Moku.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;L. Victor Allis, H. J. van den Herik, M. P. H. Huntjens. Go-Moku and Threat-Space Search&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T12:25:21.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28663" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28665" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:29:49.850" Score="5" ViewCount="7250" Body="&lt;p&gt;I’m a little confused on what the outcome of this scenario is – any help would be appreciated.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let’s say I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTurn%20Against%5d&quot;&gt;Turn Against&lt;/a&gt; on one my opponent’s creatures.  So I would “Gain control of target creature until end of turn.” However If I use the ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEldrazi%20Displacer%5d&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt; on the same creature after gaining control which says “Exile another target creature, then return it to the battlefield tapped under its owner's control.” Will this creature become mine forever? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the effect of Turn Against only applied to the first instance of the creature I targeted. Then when I use Displacer’s ability a new version on that creature is placed on the field and all equipment etc. is removed including effects from spells? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After using Displacer’s ability will I be the “owner” of the targeted creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will the creature return to my opponent at the end of my turn? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this doesn’t make sense – please let me know. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15110" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2020-02-05T20:23:30.850" LastActivityDate="2020-02-08T10:56:10.300" Title="What is the difference between Owning and Controlling an object on the Battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28663" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:34:37.930" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling on the card on the gatherer website says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the creature returns to the battlefield, it will be a new object with no connection to the creature that was exiled. It won’t be in combat or have any additional abilities it may have had when it was exiled. Any +1/+1 counters on it or Auras attached to it are removed, and any Equipment will no longer be attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it will return to the battlefield under your opponents (it's owners) control because it will no longer have a connection to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Turn%20Against&quot;&gt;Turn Against&lt;/a&gt; being cast on it&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T15:16:11.913" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T15:16:11.913" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28663" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:35:50.323" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't ever become a creature's owner in a game if you already weren't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.3. &lt;strong&gt;The owner of a card in the game is the player who started the game with it in his or her deck.&lt;/strong&gt; If a card is brought into the game from outside the game rather than starting in a player’s deck, its owner is the player who brought it into the game. If a card starts the game in the command zone, its owner is the player who put it into the command zone to start the game. Legal ownership of a card in the game is irrelevant to the game rules except for the rules for ante. (See rule 407.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you use Turn Against on a creature, you become its &lt;strong&gt;controller&lt;/strong&gt;, not &lt;strong&gt;owner&lt;/strong&gt;. If you used Eldrazi Displacer's ability on the same creature, it would return under your opponent's control, since he owns this creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your second question, let's assume that you somehow retained control of the creature that you blinked with Eldrazi Displacer. The creature would not return to your opponent's control at the end of the turn. This is because an object that changes zones, even if it returns to the same zone it came form, becomes a completely new object every time it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are seven exceptions to this rule, and none of them apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T17:25:42.947" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T17:25:42.947" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28663" CreationDate="2016-01-28T13:57:14.850" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer a couple other parts of the question, any auras and equipments, when you gain control, stay on the creature, but are actually controlled by your opponent. Normally they can't do much, but it depends on the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you use the Displacer's ability, since it leaves the battlefield and returns as a &quot;new card&quot;, the auras and equipments are unattached. This also does apply to spells targeting the creature. Once the blink is done, the original target of the spell is no longer there (now a new card) so it should fizzle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T13:57:14.850" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28658" CreationDate="2016-01-28T15:54:17.233" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In magic, when it said &quot;target creature&quot;, that means that the spell can only target a creature that already is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spells can target a creature (or other permanents) that are in the graveyard, or exiled, or the players themselves, but it's said explicitly in the spell. (thanks RainBolt)&#xA;The conterspells target the spell itself and not the creature or whatever that the spell will summon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all effects occuring when entering the battlefield already happened... and changing the force of the creature will not change that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15109" LastEditorUserId="15109" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T15:21:51.793" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:21:51.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28668" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27970" CreationDate="2016-01-28T17:34:07.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as breaking the game goes you'd have to experiment. Since those cards don't always come up it's hard to say with out play testing how early stone would affect a 2-player game with and without those cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be to as you say accept the limitation and use the draw 10 pick 7 method for Minor Improvements and Occupations. That way if you are playing a 2-player game and draw a great card but it requires stone you can decide not to keep it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately house ruling things is about having more fun, so if you add a path to early stone for 2-player games and it's more enjoyable for everyone then go for it. That said, in my opinion, Agricola shines at making you feel like you never have enough time to do stuff so removing that from the game (even in a small way) diminishes one of the core qualities of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14482" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T17:34:07.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7078" CreationDate="2016-01-28T18:43:03.420" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only use one hand. you can touch multiple blocks at a time to support the tower to get a block out as long as it's only one hand as well. If you disturb a block while trying to get your block out, you may leave it there but it is recommended to fix it so the tower doesn't fall or leave the next player with a move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15113" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T18:43:03.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7798" CreationDate="2016-01-28T19:54:36.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can make an Eldrazi + &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloudpost%5d&quot;&gt;Cloudpost&lt;/a&gt; because Cloudpost will only double every time you lay one down. With all 8 locus lands on the field equals to 36 colorless land total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15115" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-05-29T09:57:43.077" LastActivityDate="2019-05-29T09:57:43.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28671" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28673" CreationDate="2016-01-28T20:09:51.920" Score="4" ViewCount="2871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yesterday I was opening some boosters from the new Oath of the Gatewatch expansion, and got &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=402051&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sunken Hollow&lt;/a&gt; as a rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Tap: Add Blue or Black to your mana pool.) Sunken Hollow enters the&#xA;battlefield tapped unless you control two or more basic lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest I was kind of dissappointed to get a land for a rare (then again, I also got Nissa, Voice of Zendikar, so I can't complain), but it also made me wonder why it is a rare? What are the exact advantages of this card? The gatherer website has some rulings on this card, but I can't really make much of them, or see how this would affect a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14162" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T23:03:36.013" Title="Why is Sunken Hollow a rare?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28646" CreationDate="2016-01-28T20:17:32.150" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wide ranging weak 2s are so common that there is a well-known convention called Ogust for dealing with them.  After a bid of 2N by responder, opener's bids at the 3 level give no information other than whether his or her hand is stronger or weaker (usually 7 vs 8 losers) and whether his or her pre-empting suit is better or worse (usually how many of the top 3 honors).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This convention gives up the ability for opener to show features in particular suits (which can be important for responder to know how well the hands fit together), but partnerships playing wide-ranging weak 2s usually find they need it.  Obviously they think the wide-ranging weak 2 is worth it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher preempts are usually not as wide ranging since you can preempt one level higher on a hand with more offensive power or one level lower (even bidding a weak 2 with a 7 card suit on occasion) on a hand with less offensive power.  (The exception is 3C, and I have heard of pairs adopting &quot;3D Ogust&quot; to cater to this problem.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T20:17:32.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28671" CreationDate="2016-01-28T20:30:41.560" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;The land is a rare for a couple reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a land that can provide two colors and it has the chance to enter untapped. Entering untapped is important for maintaining tempo.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a dual land*, in the classic sense of having two basic land types(Island Swamp). Lands with two basic types are very important, especially when fetch lands are currently in standard. A Plain-Island fetchland could get a Sunken Hollow, allowing the player access to black mana. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*I call it a dual land, but there are many lands that can be considered dual. Any land that produces two (or more) types of mana may be considered dual, even if they aren't a basic land type (e.g. Llanowar Wastes produces green and black, but isn't a forest nor a swamp, and costs life to make colored mana). Many dual lands enter tapped, which trades mana fixing for speed. Some do give you a slight benefit (1 life, scry 1, relevant land type).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And of the dual lands with two land types, each of them is slightly different. The original dual lands always entered untapped. Shock lands enter tapped unless you pay 2 life but it can be untapped the first or second turn. The dual land you have won't normally enter untapped until the 3rd turn or later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-01-28T21:28:52.800" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T21:28:52.800" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28671" CreationDate="2016-01-28T20:30:56.380" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you learn more about magic, you're going to learn that land choice is one of the most important things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's rare because it is a land that offers you more than one color and CAN come in untapped.  It's all about the speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In standard play this is important, but not game-breaking by itself.  If you shift to more open formats you learn very quickly the difference it makes to have a land come in untapped and offer two or more colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14393" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T20:30:56.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28671" CreationDate="2016-01-28T23:03:36.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that it's because of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/new-world-order-2011-12-05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;New World Order&lt;/a&gt;, the massive redesign of how complexity was handled in MTG releases from late 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things that now cause a card to be put at a higher rarity are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Strength of the card overall. More powerful cards are rarer so it's harder for someone to just load their deck up with them and crush people unlucky enough to not have those cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How complex the card is to understand, in terms of its actual behaviour. So a card that requires a lot of text, or careful understanding of priority, is more likely to be rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How complex the card is to understand strategically. So a card that has simple mechanics but looks &quot;useless&quot; might be rarer to make you think about what's so special about it (because at a common you might just think it was a rubbish card used to bulk up the set).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How complex the card is, in terms of interactions with other cards. If there's a three-card combo that results in a crazy chain reaction where you have to carefully pay attention to the order of execution to understand what's going on, at least one of those cards is probably going to be put at rare.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So rare cards are ones that either feel special to get in a booster (because they're that good), or that you have to think about how to best use (and so you don't get cognitive overload with lots of complicated cards at common). In the case of a dual land, it's usually a bit of both. The ability to choose which colour of mana you're producing is incredibly powerful, because it makes it easier to mix two colours in your deck without worrying about mana screw, or to splash a colour you wouldn't otherwise include. Imagine if your opponent was playing an apparently straight black creature deck and suddenly dropped a couple of these. Why would he need blue mana? Is he going to summon a massive creature, or maybe he's got some spell counters available?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As pointed out in other answers, the fact that it can be played untapped means that you don't sacrifice tempo to get the dual land out, either. With many dual lands, the bonus of having that flexibility is countered by needing to wait an extra turn to make use of it (barring some ability to untap a land). So as long as you've already got a couple of lands out, this is a penalty-free dual land, meaning that it's at full power by turn 3 in many cases (and potentially earlier if you can get around the one-land-per-turn rule somehow).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-01-28T23:03:36.013" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28351" CreationDate="2016-01-29T00:53:28.917" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cannot recall encountering this situation. I reckon that ties are not common, and that there is not a clear rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How it is handled would depend on the scoring system in use. For example, the description in &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com.au/books?isbn=0307486095&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hoyle&lt;/a&gt; lists three settlement methods: &quot;Cumulative scoring&quot; and &quot;Howell Settlement&quot; avoid the issue, whereas in the &quot;Sweepstake&quot; method, if two players are clear then they divide the pot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pagat does refer to it in the section about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com/reverse/hearts.html#vars_scoring&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;variations of scoring&lt;/a&gt;. It does say &quot;may&quot; continue, so i suppose that each game should declare whether the low points are shared or whether the game plays on. (Pagat does not mention those other settlements.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player reaches or exceeds 100 points and there is a tie for low score, additional hands may be played until there is a clear winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In real life games, we did not bother with settlement: as soon a someone blew it, then end of game, move on to the next. Online games would need to utilise settlements, especially if doing rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any statistics from your online game, regarding how often this situation occurs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12778" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T00:53:28.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28679" CreationDate="2016-01-29T02:23:25.163" Score="5" ViewCount="9420" Body="&lt;p&gt;The definition of storm (such as in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grapeshot&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt;) is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storm (When you play this spell, put a copy of it onto the stack for each other spell that was played before it this turn. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for any number of the copies.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does Storm count the spells played by the opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This definition does not specify if the spell are played by the controller of the &amp;quot;Storm-card&amp;quot; or by the opponent. I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Storm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; and it does not clarify my doubt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because the owner of my local shop told me that Storm does not count enemy spells and he is a kind of judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T13:54:25.490" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T13:54:25.490" Title="Does Storm count opponents' spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28677" CreationDate="2016-01-29T02:28:58.770" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You pretty much figured this out yourself. It doesn't say the spells have to be yours, or that they have to be your opponents' (or that they can't be), so it counts all spells that have been cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, the rule you quoted in your question appears to be from an older version of the comprehensive rules. The current version is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.39a Storm is a triggered ability that functions on the stack. “Storm” means “When you cast this spell, put a copy of it onto the stack for each other spell that was cast before it this turn. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for any of the copies.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a judge (or a &quot;kind of&quot; judge) told you that it didn't count opponents' spells, well, they were wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T02:28:58.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28677" CreationDate="2016-01-29T02:29:55.833" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get a copy for every previous spell, not just the ones you cast. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Storm&quot;&gt;Storm rules&lt;/a&gt; (that you linked to) define Storm in rule 702.39a:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm is a triggered ability that functions on the stack. “Storm” means “When you cast this spell, put a copy of it onto the stack &lt;strong&gt;for each other spell that was cast before it this turn&lt;/strong&gt;. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for any of the copies.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, it uses the same wording as the reminder text you quote. It does not mention who cast the previous spells, so it counts all previous spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that care about which player did something always say so. If any trigger event, or description, or bit of text that cares about information does not mention a player, then it does not distinguish between players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T02:29:55.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7078" CreationDate="2016-01-29T09:10:36.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the situation where a block touching the block you are removing is so loose that it gets significantly moved while you remove your piece there isn't much point in caring about the second piece. All that really happens is you give the next player a very easy turn because they know a piece that will come out easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a game play point of view there really isn't any difference in all the possible rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use the removed piece to tap back into place any dislodged pieces.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use other parts of the same hand to hold the loose piece in place.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If a second block is disturbed you must replace the piece you are attempting to take and take a different piece (probably one you found to be moving during the other attempt).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove the piece in the other direction so it doesn't disturb a second piece (wont always work, sometimes a piece will be disturbed which ever way you attempt to take out the piece).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Just leave the other pieces where they lie.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it might be important to pick a rule, I can't see a huge strategic difference between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T09:10:36.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28653" CreationDate="2016-01-29T14:59:48.463" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of searching for &quot;gomoku&quot;, search for &quot;renju tutorial&quot; and you find this useful site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://renju.net/study/advanced.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://renju.net/study/advanced.php&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T15:16:13.167" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:16:13.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28684" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28686" CreationDate="2016-01-29T15:02:47.227" Score="6" ViewCount="5251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can an imprinted spell be kicked when it is cast ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example : &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Isochron%20Scepter&quot;&gt;Isochron Scepter&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=26852&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Orim's Chant&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I pay the kicker cost each time I activate Isochron Scepter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T15:22:21.497" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:24:12.453" Title="Can an imprinted spell be kicked when it is cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28685" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28684" CreationDate="2016-01-29T15:10:40.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. When casting a spell w/o paying it's mana cost, you are allowed/required to pay any additional costs. The only cost you ignore is the one printed in the top right. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.8&lt;/strong&gt;. Some spells and abilities have additional costs. An additional cost is a cost listed in a spell’s rules text, or applied to a spell or ability from another effect, that its controller must pay at the same time that player pays the spell’s mana cost or the ability’s activation cost. A cost is an additional cost only if it’s phrased using the word “additional.” Note that some additional costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:10:40.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28684" CreationDate="2016-01-29T15:11:38.657" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can pay for Kicker when you can a spell off of the Scepter. The Scepter gives your spell an Alternative Cost, and Kicker is an Additional Cost. These work together to make the full cost of the spell. So you pay {2} to activate the Scepter and then when you cast the Chant you can pay an additional {W} if you want to kick it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.9.&lt;/strong&gt; Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or &lt;strong&gt;“You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.9d&lt;/strong&gt; If an alternative cost is being paid to cast a spell, any &lt;strong&gt;additional costs&lt;/strong&gt;, cost increases, and cost reductions &lt;strong&gt;that affect that spell are applied to that alternative cost.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 601.2f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.32a&lt;/strong&gt; Kicker is a static ability that functions while the spell with kicker is on the stack. “Kicker [cost]” means “You may pay an &lt;strong&gt;additional [cost]&lt;/strong&gt; as you cast this spell.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also from the rulings on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=292752&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You don't pay the spell's mana cost. If the spell has X in its mana cost, X is 0. You do pay any additional costs for that spell. You can't use any alternative costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T15:24:12.453" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T15:24:12.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28687" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-29T16:44:01.033" Score="1" ViewCount="121" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short story; I'm working on a 3-d printer, and I have a passion for tanks and games. So I thought I would make a miniatures game! a friend gave me a reality check, and now I'm checking around to see if there already is a system out there that does what I want, namely;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Modern armored vehicle warfare with miniatures. I'm hoping for something that's fairly realistic, dealing with modern vehicles and equipment and goes into some depth; perhaps accounting for things like armor thickness and shot angles? I'm not terribly interested in infantry (even if they would play a huge role in real life) but I'll take just about anything under advisement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm hoping someone can point me to a good system. Or if there not one, then one that could act as a base for one...Or even chicken scratches that someone once made. I feel like I'm going to have to homebrew what I want anyways, but any sort of base to work with would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15122" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T16:07:28.350" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T16:07:28.350" Title="What is a good modern miniatures Tank combat game/system?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-29T21:34:59.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28687" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:14:55.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Google &quot;Jane's Naval Wargame.&quot; It forms a turn based structure, using the statistics of real life systems, to establish analogs for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actions are interpreted from the Jane's Fighting Ships books.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A similar system could be developed to reflect the nature of ground combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:14:55.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21338" CreationDate="2016-01-29T17:44:01.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 19x19 board is considered the most interesting configuration because of the strategic and tactical scenarios it enables.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . a . . x . b . x . b . x . . a . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . B . B . b . B . b . B . B . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the above diagram for example, K16 is a 3 space extension from both F16 and O16. It gives black a strong option on the top side, but still allows white invasions, at b for example. K17 could be considered too. Details on the possible invasions can be found &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?ThreeSpaceExtensionInvasions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also true that the 19x19 offers a good balance between center and sides. Beyond the simple math in your question, you need to factor in that in a real game of go:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;black and white are supposed to play the same number of stones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a central area is harder to enclose (4 borders) than a side area (3&#xA;borders) or a corner area (2 borders).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, once a size has been chosen as the official reference, it becomes de facto the most popular. Same applies to gomoku, ping pong or swimming... Humans might reconsider their decision to trump computers (cf. &lt;a href=&quot;https://googleblog.blogspot.com/2016/01/alphago-machine-learning-game-go.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AlphaGo's achievement&lt;/a&gt;), but that's another story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, I think the board size also has an astrological meaning (e.g. 19x19 is the closest to the number of days in the year), but I am not an expert here...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T17:53:17.270" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T17:53:17.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28646" CreationDate="2016-01-29T21:37:04.020" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The choice a partnership makes in this regard will influence their relative strength at Matchpoints vs IMPS. Opening &lt;em&gt;wide-range&lt;/em&gt; pre-empts facilitate more frequent interference with the opponent's auctions, but make finding game or slam yourself more difficult. This is a clear Matchpoint strategy (as emphasizing the frequency of a winning result on the hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However opening &lt;em&gt;narrow-range&lt;/em&gt; pre-empts eases the task of finding a good slam or game, but reduces the frequency of being able to interfere with the opponents auctions. This is both more constructive, which eases partnership harmony, and a clear IMP strategy (which emphasizes weighted value of results).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most published systems tend to emphasize IMP -oriented systems, because this is also appropriate strategy for Rubber Bridge. Consequently, in their published works most authors recommend &lt;em&gt;narrow-range&lt;/em&gt; pre-empts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is worth noting that Barry Crane, arguably the ultimate Matchpoint player and an avid proponent of &lt;em&gt;early-in, early-out&lt;/em&gt; bidding, &lt;a href=&quot;https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.bridge/7Mkzb7XIvMs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;recommended in 1st and 2nd seat &lt;em&gt;wide-range&lt;/em&gt; pre-empts in the majors, but &lt;em&gt;narrow-range&lt;/em&gt; in the minors&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;em&gt;The rule of 1-2-3&lt;/em&gt;&quot; means that you should be within one trick&#xA;  of making when vulnerable versus nonvulnerable, within two&#xA;  tricks at equal vulnerability, and within three tricks at&#xA;  favorable vulnerability. ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Generally, for an opening bid at the three level, you should have a&#xA;  seven card suit.  To open 3C or 3D, you must also have the A and two&#xA;  of the next three honors in your suit.  This facilitates getting&#xA;  to 3NT (and makes an opening bid of 3 in a minor alertable).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason given is that this gives opener's partner the most detailed information on how high to raise the pre-empt. It does sacrifice some capability to pre-empt at the three level in the minors, but his is probably the least effective, and most informative for the opponents, pre-empt range. One could do much worse than to follow Crane's guidance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-01-29T21:42:19.167" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T21:42:19.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28646" CreationDate="2016-01-29T22:45:11.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the excellent answers already, I would note that there is a difference in &lt;em&gt;seat&lt;/em&gt; for most expert players, also.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First seat preempts both opponent, so will be a bit wider.  Say 4-10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second seat preempts only one opponent (and one partner), so a bit narrower. Say 6-10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third seat is more complex as they often can open at the 1 level many 8-10 point hands, so they tend to the weak/narrow side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth seat is very narrow and higher, often something like 11-14, since you're not preempting any more.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On top of that of course is vulnerability concerns and other issues - this is very general.  Unfavorable, the range will be quite a bit narrower, 6-10 in first seat, say.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Better players also include other information in their decision to preempt.  A &quot;weak&quot; preempt will likely have most of the points in the trump suit, for example.  Open 2H with a T98543 suit and you're headed for heartbreak, so to speak.  They'll also be less likely to preempt with a hand that looks like a good defensive hand particularly in the other major, so something like&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;S QT9&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;H KT9875&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;D 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;C T95&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is perhaps something you don't preempt with, as it has a nice spade suit worth at least a trick most of the time, a stiff diamond to make that even more likely, and the heart K is somewhat likely to be worth a trick as well.  (In favorable vulnerability I probably preempt with that anyway, but in neutral I probably wouldn't, even though my neutral vul preempt range is 5-11.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2016-01-29T22:45:11.923" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28692" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28693" CreationDate="2016-01-30T05:33:36.007" Score="2" ViewCount="1058" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example if I have one god of Theros in my hand like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Xenagos%2C%20God%20of%20Revels&quot;&gt;Xenagos, God of Revels&lt;/a&gt; Can I play it using a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicksilver%20Amulet&quot;&gt;Quicksilver Amulet&lt;/a&gt; even though I dont have enough devotion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T05:49:15.980" Title="Are the gods of Theros considered creatures in my hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-01-30T15:37:48.683" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28692" CreationDate="2016-01-30T05:49:15.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can still play it with the Amulet. On Xenagos' page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The type-changing ability that can make the God not be a creature functions only on the battlefield. It’s always a creature card in other zones, regardless of your devotion to its color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T05:49:15.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4866" CreationDate="2016-01-30T06:55:44.257" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tapped out is Good database and useful insight for people with intermediate entry level information about the game, but should be in advanced understanding of rules. Great place to play test if you have all the cards remembered, but does take some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic the gathering is a complex game with tons of rules and rules that not only evolve over time, but new ones are introduced every new set/ block (or rather new card mechanics) which both makes the game infinitely changing but also always different and exciting. Wizards pays attention to the meta game and actually creates solutions for kinks people find in over powered cards, the universe of Magic is so big now that deck types and spells are more like Rock Paper Scissors with hundreds of combinations. There will always be a great skill in the game, but the best players know that it is knowing what's popular and finding the balence between the power and strategy of all the options. One that has been proven powerful is card advantage, and choice, not limiting your solutions against your opponent. A well rounded deck may fair well against all but loose to speed decks- and struggle to stop decks from &quot;going off&quot; and that's why games have side boards which can't be overlooked either while playing one on one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice for newer players who really want to enjoy the game and up there ability with access to the Internet, simply read cards. Go to the gatherer and look up some of the cards you have seen. Go to discussion in all the interesting cards and see what people have to say. Look up simple search for a color type you like, or even a creature type. The more cards you know the more your mind will flood with possibilities, often placing doubt on methods you once thought were incredible combos. There is always a rock paper scissor effect with magic, a few decks are known for their ability to triumph over a bunch of decks and some require a higher knowledge of the game and how mechanics work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your friends are playing what sounds like tier one legacy decks and you are new it almost sounds unfair, I'm sure they would be open to ideas of pauper (a cheeper solution and favorite of mine) is a limited number on rarity symbols which will change game style drastically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Download the apps on kindle and I phone I pad. The latest electronic versions of magic are impressive to say the least. The latest Apple version grows and expands just like the traditional meta game, however starts with magic Orgins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastEditorUserId="15127" LastEditDate="2016-01-30T07:01:52.170" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T07:01:52.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17926" CreationDate="2016-01-30T08:33:56.590" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is so much simpler than the complex responses we give for the stack and priority. Every time you cast a spell it goes up above the table in your hand, you reveal it so the person can read the card and then imagine a small timer going off where you can choose to stop it and interact with the spell being played or &quot;allow it.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest and easiest way. When the spell is in the air (or action of any tapped ability or paid for ability other than mana) and the player is casting it, this is when the opposing player has &quot;priority,&quot; which is really just your ability to respond. A sorcery can only be played on one of the two main phases, so the only way to respond is with mana abilities (which cannot be stopped if they are activated and is the one exception to this general rule unless stated on a card.) What the mana pays into (instant spells, abilities of creatures, enchantments, lands, -permanents or what you cast from your hand or activate through abilities of pernaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is your scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Pass turn.&quot; -you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent receives &quot;priority&quot; because like everything in magic and responds with lightening bolt.&#xA;You now have priority again, and can respond to his lightening bolt which actually would go on top of his spell (the stack) in the air and would go first) but because you moved your life counter down, it is assumed the spell resolved and the turn was over as you had moved intentions over to ending the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15127" LastActivityDate="2016-01-30T08:33:56.590" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28696" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28701" CreationDate="2016-01-30T12:29:16.107" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to play Pandemic. I have bought the game and the expansion &quot;On the Brink&quot; in Dutch.&#xA;Is the expansion &quot;In the Lab&quot; available in multiple languages? Even in Dutch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15130" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T15:47:11.087" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T15:47:11.087" Title="Is the Pandemic expansion &quot;In the Lab&quot; available in multiple languages?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28763" CreationDate="2016-01-30T22:57:28.140" Score="5" ViewCount="17535" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always been rather confused about how to set up a Jenga tower. There is a cardboard piece that comes with it that covers two sides and either the top and bottom of a completed tower. It's clear to me that this is supposed to help in setup, since doing it free hand leads to a less stable tower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how do you actually use this insert? If you use the horizontal side is on the top, it gets in the way of placing blocks and doesn't help much with stability (you would obviously take it off before playing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvnXC.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yvnXC.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's on the bottom, it's more stable, but you can't get it out when it's time to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPFkj.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/BPFkj.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So how do you properly set up a Jenga tower with the cardboard piece?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T18:03:42.560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T01:54:56.453" Title="What is the proper way to set up a Jenga tower?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28698" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28699" CreationDate="2016-01-30T23:20:29.987" Score="4" ViewCount="2781" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a player reveals their hand in a multiplayer game, does everyone get to look at the player's hand, or only the controller of the ability that forced them to reveal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T09:52:37.477" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T09:52:37.477" Title="In a multiplayer game, who can see a player's revealed hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28698" CreationDate="2016-01-31T00:03:01.473" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You reveal the card to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.13. Reveal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.13a To reveal a card, show that card &lt;strong&gt;to all players&lt;/strong&gt; for a brief time. If an effect causes a card to be revealed, it remains revealed for as long as necessary to complete the parts of the effect that card is relevant to. If the cost to cast a spell or activate an ability includes revealing a card, the card remains revealed from the time the spell or ability is announced until the time it leaves the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T00:03:01.473" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28696" CreationDate="2016-01-31T10:21:17.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the versions listed on BGG, it appears there's no Dutch version:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/browse/boardgameversion?linked_src_objecttype=thing&amp;amp;linked_src_objectid=137136&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/browse/boardgameversion?linked_src_objecttype=thing&amp;amp;linked_src_objectid=137136&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I haven't found a Dutch version for this on several Belgian and Dutch web shops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(On a side note: the Dutch version of Pandemic has some textual errors on the role cards. Just in case you didn't know.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T10:21:17.853" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28696" CreationDate="2016-01-31T10:24:56.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/137136/pandemic-lab#versions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;, there are multiple language versions, but not in Dutch...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXrS1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;versions&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T10:24:56.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18582" CreationDate="2016-01-31T10:37:37.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just found this under the description of the Couple Dwelling that definitively answers this question in the positive&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The Couple dwelling provides room for 2 Dwarfs. You can get these Dwarfs one at a time with a Family growth action. (Even if you build this Furnishing tile on the “Urgent wish for children” Action space, you may only grow your family once with that action.)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes we can assume 'Dwellings' to mean all types. Interestingly i also just learned that you can only use the 'dwelling for 2 wood and 2 stone' quest once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15137" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T10:37:37.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T14:28:09.623" Score="4" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;Chess has a rule that forbids castling when in check. What is the practical value of this rule? How would chess without this rule compare to chess with this rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15138" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2021-01-13T12:30:13.543" LastActivityDate="2021-01-13T12:30:13.543" Title="Castling when in check" Tags="|house-rules|chess|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28706" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28707" CreationDate="2016-01-31T16:50:10.053" Score="2" ViewCount="1587" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the ability &quot;Exile all cards from target player's graveyard&quot; counter &quot;When ~ is put into a graveyard from anywhere, its owner shuffles his or her graveyard into his or her library&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: if &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397905&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; is put into the graveyard, will activating &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=389723&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tormod's Crypt&lt;/a&gt; counter its effect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T21:15:23.283" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T11:09:30.017" Title="&quot;Put into graveyard&quot; versus &quot;exile graveyard&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28706" CreationDate="2016-01-31T17:09:30.193" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kind of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Emrakul hits the graveyard, his ability &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Emrakul is put into a graveyard from anywhere, its owner shuffles&#xA;  his or her graveyard into his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;goes onto the stack. Then priority will first go to the active player and then to the other. After receiving priority, Tormod's Crypt can be activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exile all cards from target player's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cards go into the exile zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, Emrakul's trigger resolves, and its controller will shuffle his or her empty graveyard into his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2016-01-31T21:12:21.023" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:12:21.023" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2016-01-31T18:34:33.037" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;One important reason to check a king is to prevent him from castling later by forcing him to move. The reason is that a king that has already moved (and remains in the center) cannot later &quot;castle&quot; his way into relative safety on the side. Nor can a king castle while in check, so this prevents him from castling for at least that move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two other ways to defend a king in check without moving him. One is to capture the checking piece, and the other is to &quot;interpose&quot; another piece between the checking piece and the king. If the king can then be prevented from moving, he can castle later. But these remedies expose the defending side to other risks, which are probably included in the reasons to check the king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T18:34:33.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28709" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-01-31T19:44:04.947" Score="6" ViewCount="826" Body="&lt;p&gt;I started playing Magic: The Gathering in 1997, when the Fifth Edition had just been released. The game immediately captivated me, and I especially loved the visual design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TOrP.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/2TOrP.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Fifth Edition Plains Mana&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gc9b8.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gc9b8.png&quot; alt=&quot;Eighth Edition Plains Mana&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A radical card face redesign was announced in early 2003 for the Eighth Edition. Today, in 2016, this is ancient history, and the &quot;new&quot; look has been the standard for more than half of the game's existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: Wizards of the Coast has repeatedly written followups for card &lt;em&gt;mechanics&lt;/em&gt;, such as a lengthy blog post explaining design mistakes that led to several Urza Block cards being banned. Has anything like that (positive or negative) ever been published by Wizards employees about the 2003 visual redesign? I'd really love to know how they view their decision in hindsight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15140" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T02:32:23.293" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T02:32:23.293" Title="Did Wizards ever write a followup for the 2003 card face redesign?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28709" CreationDate="2016-01-31T21:39:46.727" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The references section of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Card_frame#References&quot;&gt;Card Frame article&lt;/a&gt; on the MTGSalvation Wiki refers to a large number of articles published by Wizards about card frame changes. The ones about the Eighth Edition change that you're asking about are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/card-face-redesign-faq-2003-01-20&quot;&gt;Card Frame Redesign FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, by the magicthegathering.com staff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/frames-reference-2003-01-27&quot;&gt;Frames of Reference&lt;/a&gt;, by Mark Rosewater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/scary-card-frame-story-2003-10-31&quot;&gt;A Scary Card Frame Story&lt;/a&gt;, by Randy Buehler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The article most relevant to your question is Frames of Reference, because it is where Mark Rosewater explains why exactly they made those changes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-01-31T21:39:46.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28705" CreationDate="2016-02-01T01:36:41.800" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Per the wikipedia page for castling, it appears that castling arose in response to the growth in the power of the bishop and queen move sets. The line that is most interesting is a reference to the Gottingen Manuscript:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Göttingen manuscript (c. 1500) and a game published by Luis Ramírez de Lucena in 1498, castling consisted of two moves: first the rook and then the king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is correct, than 'casting' while in check would entail moving the rook first, and then 'leaping' the rook with the king. If the king is in check when you attempt to castle, you would be moving the rook with the king still in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T01:36:41.800" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28709" CreationDate="2016-02-01T02:49:47.337" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To demonstrate exactly how not a big deal it is now, there's a mention in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/twenty-things-were-going-kill-magic-2013-08-05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twenty Things That Were Going To Kill Magic&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt; in 2013:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One day, CAPS, the department in charge of laying out and printing the cards, explained that there were a few changes that needed to be made for printing purposes. R&amp;amp;D saw this as a chance to fix a number of other problems with the card frames and revamp them. As this new frame first appeared in Eighth Edition, they were referred to as the Eighth Edition card frames.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change had a huge impact on how the cards looked and many players objected to the shift. They felt the new layout had less of a fantasy feel and moved the game away from its roots. This was another very loud outcry with many words written both in articles and on message boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, they still just think of it as having fixed some problems (or at least Mark Rosewater does).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is corroborated in Starting Over, where Mark Rosewater discusses what he'd change if they started over (in the form of a time travel conversation with Richard Garfield):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;We also changed the card frames to make the words easier to read. Especially in the name. The original font and layout made reading cards from far away very difficult.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Looking back up at your example, I have to say I totally agree: whatever you might say about the beauty of the design, the old one is way harder to read, and that's pretty important in Magic!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, he goes on to mention that if they could have, they might well have made even more changes, mentioning the Future Sight frame as an example of some ideas (thought not the optimal form).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think I've ever seen anyone at Wizards say anything negative about the redesign, and generally, it's not a topic comes up much at all, suggesting they're still pretty happy with the decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T02:49:47.337" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28714" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T05:59:33.130" Score="0" ViewCount="197" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shipbreaker%20Kraken&quot;&gt;Shipbreaker Kraken&lt;/a&gt; on my opponent and tap four creatures. The next turn I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scourge%20of%20Fleets&quot;&gt;Scourge of Fleets&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do all cards go back to their hand or do the cards I picked stay on the battlefield when I used shipbreaker kraken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15146" LastEditorUserId="11939" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T07:31:12.947" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T07:31:12.947" Title="Will Shipbreaker Kraken cause creatures to stay on the battlefield when hit by Scourge of Fleets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28714" CreationDate="2016-02-01T06:32:18.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards go back to the hand. The only thing Shipbreaker Kraken can do to them is cause them to not untap. It doesn't do anything to keep them on the battlefield if they get sent back to a hand by Scourge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, it gets even worse. If you Scourge them back to your opponent's hand, and they play them again, they will be allowed to untap as normal. This is because once it goes to the hand and gets recast, it's a different &quot;object&quot;. The &quot;object&quot; that was (let's call it frozen) frozen by the Kraken is not the same &quot;object&quot; that they play, even if it's the same physical card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, if you're planning to throw out a Scourge of Fleets, try not to double dip on the ones that you target with the Kraken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bit of an aside that's a little too long for a comment:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sets aside the fact that you're playing both Scourge of Fleets and Shipbreaker Kraken in the same deck. I'd have to say such a deck would be woefully underpowered in all formats, barring commander. Both creatures fill the same role: a large body with a mass removal effect. Given their mana costs, for any 60 card deck you can expect it to be too slow to use both of these. Simply put, one of these will be better than the other for a given deck/matchup. Even if you play 4 of the best one, would you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; want to play 5 of these big guys? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T06:32:18.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28716" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-01T06:37:38.877" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In game deck building card game like Dominion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WW2 with a twist. The germans are good and cute. The russians are bad and evil and Stalin is the big bad wizard who needs to be defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ultimate goal is to conquer Moscow. And if the goal is reached, the player with the most victory points is the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T10:00:28.560" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T10:00:28.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28717" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-01T06:37:38.877" Score="0" Body="A deck-building card game from Japan in which players take the role of World War 2 Nazi army divisions attempting to conquer Russia." OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="3530" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T20:13:14.160" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T20:13:14.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28719" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-01T11:34:43.177" Score="13" ViewCount="1052" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Agricola, Occupations cards are each marked with 1+, 3+ or 4+, indicating the number of players for which they are valid. For example, you cannot be dealt a 3+ or 4+ card in a two-player game. With a few exceptions (such as those that refer to the &quot;Travelling players&quot; space) the 3+/4+ cards would be playable, and potentially useful, in any game, but presumably they are restricted for purposes of balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why do the Minor Improvements not follow the same system? There are a number of cards where their behaviour changes directly in response to number of players, especially in the I deck (e.g. Slaughter-house, Milking shed, Punner). Others don't directly refer to other players but still change in their utility, for example because of different availability of certain actions (e.g. Bake bread; see also &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/27970/how-can-you-get-around-the-lack-of-early-stone-in-two-player-agricola&quot; title=&quot;here&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, in designing the game I feel it would have made sense to have the same system for both Minor Improvements and Occupations: either decide that both should be available in all games, and accept that some will be more useful than others for a given number of players, or categorise them both in order to fine-tune the balance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any reason that they follow two different systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T00:04:41.127" Title="In Agricola, why are Minor Improvements not separated by number of players whereas Occupations are?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28720" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28730" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:13:37.087" Score="16" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have three rooms and two family members, and I take a &quot;family growth (even without space)&quot; action (for example using the Lover occupation). Does the new family member now occupy my third room, or double up with one of the existing family members? In other words, can I now immediately take a standard &quot;family growth&quot; action, or will I now need to build an extra room? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Note that if I'd done it the other way around (&quot;growth&quot;, then &quot;growth without space&quot;), I could definitely have four people in my three rooms.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T18:25:46.793" Title="In Agricola, do family members occupy as many rooms as possible?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2016-02-01T12:46:01.100" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is against the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastersgames.com/rules/carrom-rules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Striking&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each strike, the player must position the striker within the&#xA;baseline OR on one of the two circles at either end of the baseline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A striker within the baseline must touch both the front line and the&#xA;rear line.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The striker may not &amp;quot;cut the moon&amp;quot; - be placed partially&#xA;within the baseline and partially within the circle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player must flick the striker with one finger so that it crosses the front baseline - &lt;strong&gt;it is not permitted to flick backwards or horizontally&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A piece that is on or behind the front baseline must not be struck by&#xA;the striker until the striker has crossed the front baseline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In striking, the player's hand or arm must not cross the diagonal foul&#xA;lines at either end of the baseline.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15147" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T13:07:36.200" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24863" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:17:03.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Master level skills still count as one.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/tales_of_the_arabian_nights_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; don't cover this directly. However, page 13 says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Certain paragraphs will instruct you to lose a particular skill. If you have that skill at the Talent level, put it back in the Skill Bank. If you have the skill at Master level, turn it back to its Talent side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems fairly clear that a Master level skill still only counts as one skill. The rules have special cases throughout for how you handle gaining and losing skills at different levels, with the result being that you can only ever have one skill token for a particular skill you have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, for each skill, &lt;strong&gt;you either have it or you don't&lt;/strong&gt;. This is true regardless of whether you have the skill at Master or Talent level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As extra evidence, the game is designed so that you have only one skill token and flip it. If being a Master was equivalent to having the skill twice, you'd represent it by having the token twice instead of the token having two sides. As such, the game designer didn't consider this interpretation and so the rules don't cover it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:17:03.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27206" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:34:54.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you don't do any special actions.&lt;/strong&gt; You only do what the rules tell you to, which is to add tokens based on the number of flowers. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://gokids.com.tw/tsaiss/gokids/rules/Little%20Red%20Riding%20Hood%20-%20rulebook%20-%20ENG.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this version&lt;/a&gt; of the rules (IELLO's own link was broken):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules are ordered quite clearly. At the beginning of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In order to start, the youngest player flips over the first card of the Path card deck (and adds to it as many face-down Gathering tokens as there are flowers on the card). This will be the first card for Gathering. Then, this player takes the first turn of the game as explained below.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The final step for the &quot;Stop Gathering&quot; choice is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reveal the first Path card from the deck&lt;/strong&gt; in order to start the next player Gathering anew (add whatever Gathering tokens should be added). Now it is time for the player to your left to take her turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the special cards (Little Red Riding Hood and the owl) only come up within the &quot;Continue Gathering&quot; choice (and only if the number on the card is high enough), so you only follow them when you draw the card as a result of choosing the &quot;Continue Gathering&quot; action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cards resolved as normal at this time then you'd immediately lose your turn before you started with a wolf card, due to it having the number 0!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:34:54.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26995" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:53:41.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This can't happen.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mastersgames.com/rules/carrom-rules.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;, the Queen can't be left without a piece from each team still being on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pocketing &lt;strong&gt;either player's&lt;/strong&gt; final piece with the Queen still on the board is a foul, which returns the pocketed piece and a penalty piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Queen and the striker were pocketed together while pieces were left, this is also a foul. Since a foul ends the turn, this means that the Queen can't then be covered, so it will return to the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, from &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the ICF rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Somebody will already have won. Pocketing your own, or your opponent's final piece while the Queen is on the board causes you to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T15:40:00.207" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T15:40:00.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11914" CreationDate="2016-02-01T14:56:52.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't actually own Timber Peak so I can't help you from experience but I did find the following comment from &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/917203/anyone-else-have-problem-humans-being-way-over-pow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this post&lt;/a&gt; on BGG relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I found that zombie tactics in TP are different from LNOE. Without going into detail, I'd say the zombies require a bit more subtlety than in the earlier game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to answer your question: If your gaming group is really use to vanilla LNoE they may need to adapt a different play style for Timber Peak. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the thread on the above link might also help answer your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14482" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T14:56:52.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28119" CreationDate="2016-02-01T15:12:34.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the ICF rules&lt;/a&gt;, it's a loss for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on who covered the Queen, your opponent will get 1-3 points, +1 for the Striker, and +1 if it was an improper stroke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;110&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) If a player pockets the last C/m of his own and of his opponent together with the Striker by a proper stroke he shall lose the Board by one point, if the Queen has been covered by him. One additional point for the pocketed Striker shall be awarded if demanded by the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) If a player pockets the last C/m of his own and of his opponent together with the Striker by an improper stroke, he shall lose the Board by one point, if the Queen has been covered by him. Two additional points shall be awarded, if demanded by the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) If a player pockets the last C/m of his own and of his opponent together with the Striker by a proper stroke, he shall lose the Board by 3 points, if the Queen has been covered by the opponent. If the score of the opponent is 22 or more, he shall get one point. One additional point shall be awarded, if demanded by the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) If a player pockets the last C/m of his own and of his opponent together with the Striker by an improper stroke he shall lose the Board by 3 points, if  the Queen has been covered by the opponent. If the score of the opponent is 22 or more he shall get one point. Two additional points shall be awarded, if demanded by the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T15:40:47.920" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T15:40:47.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28727" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27683" CreationDate="2016-02-01T15:27:39.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It will be a Foul.&lt;/strong&gt; You will lose your turn, the pocketed piece will be returned, and a penalty piece will be returned. Presumably your touch caused the piece to move. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the ICF rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;134&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The C/m and/or Queen shall not be moved or disturbed after the Break, except by way of a stroke. If touched, moved or disturbed the same shall be replaced in the original position by the Umpire, as far as possible and a Foul shall be declared against the offending player as per the Laws.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) If a player pockets his own C/m by an improper stroke, the C/m so pocketed with a Penalty C/m shall be taken out for placing by the opponent and the player shall lose his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T15:27:39.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23754" CreationDate="2016-02-01T15:39:29.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The game will continue, returning the pocketed C/m along with a penalty.&lt;/strong&gt; If the stroke was proper, your turn continues with you trying to cover the Queen. From &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the ICF rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;101&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a) While covering the Queen by a proper stroke, if a player pockets the striker along with his C/m, the C/m so pocketed plus one&#xA;  C/m as Due shall be taken out for placing by the opponent. The player shall however, continue his turn. If in that subsequent stroke no C/m of the player is pocketed, the Queen shall not be considered to have been covered and it shall be taken out for placing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b) While covering the Queen, if a player pockets his Striker along with his C/m by an improper stroke, the C/m so pocketed plus two C/m as due and penalty shall be taken out for placing by the opponent and the player shall lose his turn. The Queen shall be taken out for placing by the Umpire.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T15:39:29.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24153" CreationDate="2016-02-01T16:42:24.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nobody wins yet.&lt;/strong&gt; You return 2 C/m to the board and continue your turn. According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the ICF rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;70&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If a player pockets the Striker with his own C/m by a proper stroke, the number of C/m so pocketed, with a Due C/m, shall be taken out for placing and the player shall continue his turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T16:42:24.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28720" CreationDate="2016-02-01T18:04:26.200" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The third member will occupy the third room of your house, even if you use the &quot;Family Growth even without a room&quot; action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule starts on page 9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/agricola_eng.pdf&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, under &quot;Family Growth even without a room&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: If a player who uses this card later extends her home, she may not use the other Family Growth card again until she has more rooms than Family members: the new rooms must first be used for Family members that did not previously have their own rooms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you cannot take the actions in the order you are suggesting without building an additional room between the two &quot;Family Growth&quot; actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-01T18:25:46.793" LastActivityDate="2016-02-01T18:25:46.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28960" CreationDate="2016-02-02T09:52:07.510" Score="5" ViewCount="6903" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is intended to be a canonical question regarding possible endings of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For each question, assume a single proper strike was made, and note where an improper strike would change the game outcome (beyond an additional point for the opponent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the Queen has been covered:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my last C/m and the Striker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m and the Striker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Striker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the shot covers the Queen:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my last C/m and the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my last C/m, the Queen and the Striker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my opponents' last C/m and the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my opponents' last C/m, the Queen and the Striker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m, the Queen and the Striker?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the Queen is left on the board:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;12&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my last C/m, leaving the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my last C/m and the Striker, leaving the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m, leaving the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m and the Striker, leaving the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m, leaving the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Striker, leaving the Queen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T15:52:54.400" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:25:10.340" Title="What happens in these end-game situations?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24890" CreationDate="2016-02-02T10:22:18.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hexagons are naturally dividable into 6 equilateral triangles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could opt for other than hexagonal boards.  If you want hexagonal tiles, you could have collections of 7 (a central one with 6 surrounding ones), 10 (2 central ones with 8 surrounding ones), 12 (3 central ones with 9 surrounding ones), 14 (4 central ones with 10 surrounding ones) or 19 (7 central ones with 12 surrounding ones) tiles in a (sub)board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15138" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T10:22:18.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28734" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T10:35:58.410" Score="4" ViewCount="150" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.logicmazes.com/games/epam/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;description of Epaminondas with puzzles at the bottom&lt;/a&gt;, what is the solution to the first puzzle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dOpc.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5dOpc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15138" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T15:08:54.420" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T15:49:55.780" Title="Epaminondas puzzle" Tags="|puzzles|epaminondas|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28734" CreationDate="2016-02-02T11:18:26.997" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The solution is for white to move their row of 3 one space forward. There are a bunch of possible moves for black but white can guarantee a win from all of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mna1g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mna1g.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If black moves away from their back line:&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black moves their leftmost piece away from the line, then red pushes forward. Black is forced to use their remaining 2 to capture red, who captures again. Black can't capture the remaining piece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwqjM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwqjM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is similar to the situation with the rightmost piece:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LzLpb.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LzLpb.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black moves the middle piece away, then they will have to reform the broken 2 in order to defend the back line. Red aims a phalanx there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oCbM.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oCbM.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black moves the middle piece to the side to avoid this diagonal phalanx, red goes too far away on the other side:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDi3B.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lDi3B.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If black stays on the back line&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black is staying on the back line, then their first move cannot be to the left. Any distance to the left allows red to take the first capture and keep pushing to win. Thus black moves right. If black moves more than one space to the right, then they're too far away to defend from the single piece moving in. If black moves one space to the right, red forces the black row to capture their piece, lining up the black phalanx to be split in half:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoNe5.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UoNe5.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T15:49:55.780" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T15:49:55.780" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28736" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-02T12:43:34.930" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T12:43:34.930" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T12:43:34.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28737" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-02T12:43:34.930" Score="0" Body="The classic (and classical) game of black and white counters in 'phalanxes', created by Robert Abbott in 1975" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T19:41:07.403" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:41:07.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28738" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24890" CreationDate="2016-02-02T19:38:09.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mage Knight: The Board Game uses a series of boards that are made of smaller hexes. Each board is 7 hexes and connects to the adjacent board. There are also symbols along the edges which dictate the orientation of each board.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mv9St.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mv9St.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mage Knight Tile&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T19:38:09.190" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28194" CreationDate="2016-02-02T20:15:26.500" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are supposed to combine all cards in their respective decks with the exception of extra basic black market cards which go back in the box. The black market is supposed to have only nonbasic cards. The game is significantly harder with the basics in the dack so this might improve your winrate. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15156" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T20:15:26.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28204" CreationDate="2016-02-02T21:13:02.330" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The newer cards will beat out the older cards very easily. If you want to play as an antagonist themed deck, then there have been Team Aqua, Magma, and Plasma sets recently. These sets will be able to keep up, plus you get the bonus of them being tournament legal (depending on the format).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15153" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T21:13:02.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28741" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-02T22:35:46.950" Score="3" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game with someone and they said they do because planeswalkers can't attack, so the tokens created by them count as commander creatures. Is that true? I can't find any rules that talk about this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15158" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:42:41.183" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T00:42:41.183" Title="Can tokens created by planeswalkers do commander damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-02-02T22:40:00.983" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Commander_(format)&quot;&gt;Rule 903.3&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only the &lt;strong&gt;cards&lt;/strong&gt; that start the game as commanders count as commanders and can deal commander damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-02-02T23:36:13.050" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T23:36:13.050" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28741" CreationDate="2016-02-02T22:41:16.083" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the token does not count. Being a commander is a property of the card itself, and is non-transferable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-02T22:41:16.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21161" CreationDate="2016-02-03T03:05:03.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first thing I would do is leave out the Alchemy set. Beyond that I personally prefer alphabetical for the straightforward reason that it takes less time to dig out cards when you're setting up, and given that (after Possession) setup is the most annoying thing about playing Dominion this is pretty important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3619" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T03:05:03.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16851" CreationDate="2016-02-03T10:23:37.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With more players in the game the chances of at least one player deciding to challenge you go up.  To counteract this, you need to make it less attractive to each individual player to challenge you, which can be done by modifying the payouts in the way described in the question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15138" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T10:23:37.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13062" CreationDate="2016-02-03T10:58:36.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mana sources could go on the stack the same way as other effects.  The main difference would be that you could be interrupted in between preparing the costs to be payed and actually paying the costs for casting a spell.  For instance you could use all your mana sources in preparation for casting a spell, but your opponent reacts by using their own mana sources which will resolve before your own, then after the mana hits the opponent's mana pool using it to cast a spell that discards your entire hand.  Since your own mana still has not hit your mana pool you are basically inable to do anything.  After you have discarded your hand, you will not be able to use the mana that finally enters your mana pool for the spell that is no longer in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A workaround for this problem would be to collect your mana in small steps instead of all at once.  Thus you would be using a single mana source and asking your opponent whether they want to react or not.  Then use the second mana source and again ask your opponent, until you have collected enough mana in your mana pool to cast your spell.  Asking your opponent for permission for every single mana source gets very tedious, so instead the ability to respond to mana sources was removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15138" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T10:58:36.070" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28697" CreationDate="2016-02-03T12:59:28.850" Score="13" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You make the stack (without using the insert).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You put the cardboard insert over the stack, with the horizontal bit on top, and push all the blocks into the insert to make sure they're all straight.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You take the insert off and start playing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastEditorUserId="11743" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T11:50:10.947" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T11:50:10.947" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28697" CreationDate="2016-02-03T13:25:23.360" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I always build it upside down. So you put the cardboard retainer at the bottom, then build the tower. Finally, you slowly flip the tower using the retainer to keep everything in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work well for everyone, but it's how I learned to do it as a kid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T22:03:41.287" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T22:03:41.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28750" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-03T16:09:35.763" Score="4" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;So if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Telepath%20Unbound&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt; is returned to your hand, does it turn back into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Vryn%27s%20Prodigy&quot;&gt;Jace, Vryn&amp;#39;s Prodigy&lt;/a&gt; to be recast or does it in effect go to your graveyard because Jace, Telepath Unbound cant be recast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15162" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-02-03T16:38:59.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T16:38:59.007" Title="What happens if Jace, Telepath Unbound is returned to your hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28750" CreationDate="2016-02-03T16:11:55.607" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;When it enters a new zone, it resets back to its default characteristics. Namely as a creature card. So, you can then recast it as Jace, Vryn's Prodigy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is based on two rulings on Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a double-faced card isn’t on the battlefield, consider only the characteristics of its front face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A double-faced card enters the battlefield with its front face up by default, unless a spell or ability instructs you to put it onto the battlefield transformed, in which case it enters with its back face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T16:11:55.607" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9377" CreationDate="2016-02-03T16:45:32.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't believe they are the same.  I ordered the 2nd edition expansion along with the third edition base game, and they did not have the same card backs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15164" LastActivityDate="2016-02-03T16:45:32.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28753" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28754" CreationDate="2016-02-04T00:49:49.930" Score="15" ViewCount="32310" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have just bought a set of Oath of the Gatewatch cards, and a few of them have a small shiny oval on the bottom center, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Corrupted%20Crossroads&quot;&gt;Corrupted Crossroads&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15168" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-04T02:05:02.613" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T02:05:02.613" Title="What do shiny ovals mean on Magic the Gathering cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28753" CreationDate="2016-02-04T01:41:03.287" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/adam-styborski-01062014-new-card-frame-coming-in-magic-2015/&quot;&gt;Magic 2015 redesign&lt;/a&gt;, rare and mythic rare cards will have a spot at the bottom of the card frame containing a small holofoil stamp. This has two effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes it harder to produce counterfeit versions, so it's a sign of authenticity.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It makes the card seem more special. Look, shiny!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T01:41:03.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28755" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T02:00:00.053" Score="1" ViewCount="318" Body="&lt;p&gt;It occurred to me that the Fluxx and Munchkin are quite similar games in that they are casual games that derive their fun from their theming. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to combine the games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:24:25.860" Title="Are there any house rules for combining Munchkin and Fluxx?" Tags="|house-rules|munchkin|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-02-04T19:55:27.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T03:31:51.687" Score="4" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for the name and information on a solitaire game found in early releases of solitaire for the PC (circa 1989-1991).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It used two decks, eight foundation piles and a tableau with maybe 3 rows of 4 piles?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The object was to build up on the foundations (which began with queens perhaps).  One foundation went up by ones, one by twos, one by threes, and one by fours, I believe.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was it called Queen Solitaire or King Solitaire, perhaps?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15169" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-10-22T06:04:57.263" LastActivityDate="2019-10-22T06:04:57.263" Title="Double Deck Solitaire for PC 1989-1992" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|computers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2160" CreationDate="2016-02-04T06:11:44.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me I find that the demon generally wins and unlike you I hardly ever play the Human Player. It really depends on the scenario you're playing, see if you're playing the Survivors(scenario one) I would highly recommend using troglodytes to wound as many people as deeply as you can and then bring your demon out and use his special power (when the target is wounded get extra combat) to just finish each of them off in one swipe. See - you just gotta find the tactic!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15172" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T06:11:44.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28234" CreationDate="2016-02-04T11:53:55.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;While this is slightly ambiguous, the &quot;consecutively&quot; refers to shots taken in the sequence. If you hit A on shot 1 in a sequence, you won't be able to damage A on shot 2 no matter what, but shot 3 is fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I hit A on my first shot, then on my second shot hit B then A, A would still only take the one damage (despite the &quot;change of target&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This limit isn't to force you to change targets but to encourage it, and to limit the damage a sequence can do to a single target. This way the Overseer can't take a boss sequence and just eliminate a single player trivially, and the Barbarian can't use items to take down the boss in two turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T11:53:55.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28697" CreationDate="2016-02-04T18:02:01.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simple, you set the guide on its side and fill it with blocks. Afterwards, it's just a simple matter of lifting one side so that it's right-side up. I base this answer on the fact that the guide is placed as such in all the JENGA boxes that I have ever played with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:02:01.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28755" CreationDate="2016-02-04T18:24:25.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As much as I love Munchkin and Fluxx, the game mechanics are so different that combining them would just cause a headache. How would keepers interact with Kicking down the door? Do goals change the requirement to reach level 10? It would be so confusing and weird to play that I would suggest staying away from combining these card games. However, there were expansions for both games if you want to freshen up gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15183" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T18:24:25.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28697" CreationDate="2016-02-04T19:49:40.067" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Jenga.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jenga rules&lt;/a&gt; from 2000, which are printed on Hasbro's website, have this to say about setup:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SETUP&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Empty the blocks onto a flat surface&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One person uses this loading tray to build up the tower by placing layers of three wooden blocks at right angles to each other. (See photo on package back.) When you finish, you'll have a solid, 18-story tower that can more than double during play!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Carefully stand the loading tray upright, then remove it so the tower stands by itself.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules indicate that you should lay the loading tray on its side, with one of the long sides resting against the table. Fill the loading tray, then tip the tower upright so the free end is on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A picture was included in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2901112/jenga&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;1986 edition rules&lt;/a&gt; (the insert in that version was transparent plastic):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkOxf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkOxf.png&quot; alt=&quot;1986 Rules Setup Diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T01:54:56.453" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T01:54:56.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28764" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-04T21:43:18.427" Score="6" ViewCount="5612" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the game Ticket to Ride: Europe and I'm a little confused about the points for destination tickets. I read somewhere that if you don't start to complete one of your destination tickets, at the end you don't lose any points. Not sure if this rule it's real, but if it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have done these 2 tickets: Frankfurt-Wilno, Danzig-Kiev and I have one more route from Wilno-Athina. Does the last one count as unfinished or does it count as not started?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I consider it started because it goes from Wilno to Kyiv and from there you can continue towards Bucharest-Sofia-Athina.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you can clear things up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What's the deal with the unfinished and not started tickets? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/An7uu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/An7uu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15187" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-11T04:28:00.340" LastActivityDate="2019-12-11T04:28:00.340" Title="Losing points for partially completed destination tickets in Ticket to Ride" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|scoring|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28764" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:10:45.013" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's no such thing as a ticket that's &quot;started&quot; vs &quot;not started&quot;. Unless it refers to the act of taking the ticket. When you take a ticket, you must complete that route, or lose points for not having completed it. It doesn't matter if you've touched those cities with any trains or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-02-04T22:10:45.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2016-02-04T22:24:04.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Give them more Tiles.&lt;/strong&gt; I think this helps expand &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt; they can do rather then just artificially boosting the score. And the goal of games is &lt;em&gt;engagement&lt;/em&gt; not winning. (I know competitive people want to win, but games are about engagement)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Let them &lt;strong&gt;pick their tiles at the END of their turn&lt;/strong&gt; (so they get to look at them longer). Everyone else picks at the &lt;em&gt;start&lt;/em&gt; of their turn. Gives them a little time advantage.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They get credit for a BINGO if they use just 7 Tiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give them BINGO +1 credit for each tile beyond BINGO they use. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15188" LastEditorUserId="15188" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T16:23:15.750" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T16:23:15.750" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24197" CreationDate="2016-02-05T09:19:32.087" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Peruse means to browse or to look at. So you can just go to the shop look at the souvenirs for sale there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As mentioned by John this can be done to block another player but would be a bit of a wasted move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15174" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T12:36:13.423" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T12:36:13.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28770" CreationDate="2016-02-05T12:26:38.460" Score="3" ViewCount="1690" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Atinlay%20Igpay&quot;&gt;Atinlay Igpay&lt;/a&gt; has the ability oubleday ikestray. Is this functionally different from double strike?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13999" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:10:12.853" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:10:12.853" Title="Is there any difference between double strike and oubleday ikestray?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-joke-cards|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28769" CreationDate="2016-02-05T12:41:46.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nop, it's the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind, Atinlay Igpay is a card from the unhinged set. Meaning you can't normally play it except for casual play (and then usually you have to agree on it specifically).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card is actually called Latin Pig in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=pig%20latin&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pig-latin&lt;/a&gt; rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Juvenile &amp;quot;code&amp;quot; language created by the rearrangement of sounds in a&#xA;word such that the first sound is moved to the end and &amp;quot;ay&amp;quot; is added.&#xA;In the case of a vowel as the first sound, &amp;quot;ay&amp;quot; is simply added, with&#xA;an hyphen if necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also how Double Strike turns into Oubleday Ikestray.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T12:41:46.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28769" CreationDate="2016-02-05T12:41:46.427" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;oNay, oubledayyay ikestrayyay isyay otnay onlyyay unctionallyfay identicalyay otay oubleDay ikeStray, ityay actuallyyay isyay oubleDay ikeStray&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;atThay isyay ecausebay allyay exttay onyay ethay ardcay &quot;igpayyay atinlayyay&quot; isyay enderedray inyay &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pig_Latin&quot;&gt;igPay atinLay&lt;/a&gt;, ichwhay ashay ellway-efinedday ulesray orfay itsyay eationcray. ereforeThay, otay akemay ethay ardcay eadableray, youyay avehay otay irstfay &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wordplays.com/pig-latin&quot;&gt;onvertcay ityay&lt;/a&gt; ackbay otay egularray Englishyay&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T12:41:46.427" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13173" CreationDate="2016-02-05T12:50:06.377" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In certain games like golf, the handicap is set by &lt;a href=&quot;https://sports.stackexchange.com/questions/10619/how-does-handicapping-work-in-social-games-of-golf&quot;&gt;&quot;experience&quot;&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, each player will know their scoring history and compare them. The weaker player wins if s/he can beat the &quot;spread&quot; suggested by these histories. That may be the best way to compare and &quot;handicap&quot; two players of very disparate backgrounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:55:25.273" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T12:50:06.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28769" CreationDate="2016-02-05T13:11:35.947" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just as &quot;Doppelschlag&quot;, &quot;Doppio attacco&quot;, &quot;Golpe duplo&quot;, and many others; &quot;Oubleday ikestray&quot; is just a regular &quot;Double Strike&quot; on a non-english card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T13:11:35.947" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28775" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T13:17:01.600" Score="3" ViewCount="324" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some information about a pokerlike game where 2 cards with numbers from 1 to 60 are dealt to each player and and bets are related to number representing an average number from of all not dealt cards. I only heard once what this game is about, I don't know the name of this game. I am trying to get some info about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you know what are the name and rules of this game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15194" LastEditorUserId="22346" LastEditDate="2023-08-01T23:14:24.877" LastActivityDate="2023-08-01T23:14:24.877" Title="name and rules of a numerical card game" Tags="|identify-this-game|probability|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-05T13:21:59.253" Score="2" ViewCount="6121" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player puts down a red 3 and it is my turn. I have red cards, but I also have a yellow 3. Do I have to keep on following the red suit until I have no more red cards? If so am I then able to start another colour?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15193" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2019-03-08T22:17:48.083" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T22:17:48.083" Title="Question about following suit" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28776" CreationDate="2016-02-05T14:50:02.420" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unorules.com/&quot;&gt;UNO Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You have to match either by the number, color, or the symbol/Action. For instance, if the Discard Pile has a red card that is an 8 you have to place either &lt;strong&gt;a red card or a card with an 8 on it&lt;/strong&gt;. You can also play a Wild card (which can alter current color in play)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you do not necessarily have to continue the color, you may change the color any time you want, even when you still have the cards of the same color as the one on the top of the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7377" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T14:50:02.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28786" CreationDate="2016-02-05T15:53:16.883" Score="5" ViewCount="2433" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read somewhere that Fan Hui was ranked between 600th and 700th world Baduk player. Knowing he's 2P whereas some players are up to 9P, it seems reasonable to me. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any official and accessible world ranking ? What is the exact rank of Fan Hui ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T13:48:28.287" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T13:48:28.287" Title="What is the actual world ranking of Fan Hui" Tags="|go|rank|professional|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28764" CreationDate="2016-02-05T17:27:56.083" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the end of a game of Ticket to Ride, when final scoring happens, your destination tickets can only have one of two statuses: complete or incomplete. As per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/te_rules_2015_en.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for destination tickets on page 6 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The cities listed on a Destination Ticket represent travel goals for the player; they can result in a bonus or a penalty. If, by the end of the game, a player has created a continuous path of his color plastic trains between the two cities named on a Destination Ticket he holds, he scores the additional points indicated by the Point Value on the Ticket. &lt;strong&gt;If he has failed to complete a continuous path between those cities, he deducts the Point Value on the Ticket from his total score.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scoring is clarified on page 7 under &lt;em&gt;Calculating Scores&lt;/em&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players must then reveal all of their Destination Tickets. &lt;strong&gt;The value of successfully completed tickets is added to their total score. The value for any incomplete Tickets is deducted from their total score.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player drew and kept a destination ticket, whether it has been started by the player or not, it is considered incomplete at the end of the game, leading to a loss of points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T17:27:56.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28778" CreationDate="2016-02-05T19:10:55.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there any official and accessible world ranking ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_ranks_and_ratings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rankings&lt;/a&gt; are done by national Go organizations, with &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?RankWorldwideComparison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some variance existing between them&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What is the exact rank of Fan Hui ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.intergofed.org/igf-news-feed/deep-learning-takes-computer-go-to-the-professional-level.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;reported here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fan [Hui] earned a 2-dan professional ranking in China before emigrating to France, so it appears that go software has reached the level of professional play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;..., but it is worth noting that the AlphaGo programming team reports that AlphaGo can beat the best rival computer programs with a four-stone handicap. That is something that several other 9-dan pros have had trouble doing in the past few years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T19:10:55.033" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28781" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28782" CreationDate="2016-02-05T21:42:44.693" Score="1" ViewCount="8511" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some commander decks have Planeswalker commanders.  What happens when you put a +1/+1 counter on one of them, such as with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=opal%20palace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Opal Palace&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14650" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-02-05T22:27:49.887" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T22:27:49.887" Title="What happens when you put a +1/+1 counter on a planeswalker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-02-05T22:33:13.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28782" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28781" CreationDate="2016-02-05T21:47:36.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Non-creature permanents can have +1/+1 counters on them, they just don't do anything until the permanent becomes a creature. Say you have a man land. If you animate it, then add +1/+1 counters to it, they stay on it even when it stops being a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Earthen%20Arms&quot;&gt;Earthen Arms&lt;/a&gt; can put counters on any permanent. Its gatherer says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any permanent can have a +1/+1 counter put on it. Those counters won’t have any effect unless that permanent is or becomes a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T21:47:36.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28781" CreationDate="2016-02-05T21:48:42.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A +1/+1 Counter exist on the commander. It doesn't count as a loyalty counter, it doesn't increase the loyalty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If by some facet the commander is turned into a creature, the +1/+1 counter would change its power and toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-02-05T21:48:42.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28784" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28789" CreationDate="2016-02-05T23:54:16.523" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that there are two main conditions. The first is that the defense has a long suit with which they can set up a &quot;ruffing finesse,&quot; usually against the declarer's trumps by leading through a newly created void (usually after a lead or two).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second condition seems to be when the defense has a number of &quot;intermediate&quot; trumps, typically ranging from Q to 8. (If the defense had four trumps 5432, a promotion wouldn't work, and if the four defensive trumps were AKQJ, it wouldn't seem to matter.) With a promotion, a defender uses an intermediate trump to force out a higher trump to promote partner's intermediates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this second precondition in fact the right one? And if so, how do you, a defender, detect the precondition either when making an opening lead (West) or responding to one (East)? Is it because you see a lot of low trumps in dummy and some intermediates in your own hand? And then do you infer that if partner has one or more trumps that they are likely to be intermediates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T17:28:32.947" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T15:43:35.890" Title="What are the preconditions for a trump promotion in bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28778" CreationDate="2016-02-06T01:10:56.930" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to add a few notes in addition to Pieter's answer, and with a hint to your implied question (can AlphaGo beat Lee Sedol?):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, I'm not sure if you thought being 9p automatically means being stronger than 2p. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5575/60&quot;&gt;This is not the case&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in this particular instance, other matters are of more importance. Fan Hui has not been competing in Asian (i.e. highest level) tournaments for many years, and his competition in Europe is limited - that's why he's the current European champion, after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this also means that it can be assumed that he's not quite as sharp as an active, competing pro in Asia. His focus simply shifted towards teaching, as teaching was the reason he came to Europe. That is to say, and with no disrespect to Fan Hui's great skill, Lee Sedol, an active top level competitive pro, is quite a bit stronger than Fan Hui - 2 stones, goes the rumor among pros.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, the closer we get to perfect moves, the more difficult it becomes to improve further: For instance, doubling AlphaGo's calculation power does not at all lead to doubled strength. Think of it more like a logarithmic scale: To improve another stone in strength, you have to put in just as much work as you did for all previous stones &lt;em&gt;together&lt;/em&gt; (roughly speaking). It remains to be seen if AlphaGo's improvements since the Fan Hui games are large enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;About comparing pro Go players&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While we cannot compare pros by their rank, we can get a rough idea of their relative strength by using &lt;a href=&quot;http://english.baduk.or.kr/sub03_04-1.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dr. Taeil Bai's chart&lt;/a&gt;, of which I reproduce the beginning of the most recent version I could find (from cyberoro, 2014):&#xA;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Prazi.png&quot; alt=&quot;[3]&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not aware if Fan Hui is included in the list, too - if he was, that might be the source for your 600th-700th information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T01:10:56.930" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28786" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28778" CreationDate="2016-02-06T02:38:28.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe your information comes from this unofficial rating system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goratings.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.goratings.org/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fan Hui's page on that site:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goratings.org/players/1480.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.goratings.org/players/1480.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fan Hui only only played a few pro games - none recently - so his ranking there (or any other pro ranking system) is unreliable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1P-9P rankings are not ratings (you only go up) and don't necessarily reflect the player's current strength.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T02:38:28.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28787" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T06:09:25.770" Score="4" ViewCount="741" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to buy a set of fine (but not luxurious) go equipment (board, stones, and bowls).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a cheap set of glass stones with a blue plastic sheet &quot;board&quot;. Unfortunately my home's floor is covered in ceramic tiles, so when the glass stones drop on the floor, the stones easily shatter or break in halves (I have broken a few already).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would shell and slate stones be just as fragile? Or are they generally resistant to breakage from dropping? Alternatively, would yunzi be solid enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I could go completely practical and just buy a magnetic set, I would like to avoid that. I find that magnetic sets just don't have the right feel to it and detracts from the appeal and esthetics of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15210" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2017-11-23T12:03:55.027" LastActivityDate="2017-11-23T12:03:55.027" Title="Are shell and slate go stones fragile?" Tags="|go|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28787" CreationDate="2016-02-06T13:13:46.153" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yunzi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia article on Yunzi stones&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like glass Go stones, yunzi are very durable. However, like glass stones, yunzi are still at risk for chipping if they are dropped or otherwise come into sharp contact with hard surfaces such as metal, tile, or stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem you describe is more a property of your (very hard) tile floor. I would suggest acquiring a small area rug and placing it under your board or table when playing to protect your stones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have never enjoyed the pleasure of playing with shell and slate stones, but I suspect that the very properties that make them so beautiful also make them susceptible to chipping from such a hard surface. Being safe seems more prudent than being sorry.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T13:13:46.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28784" CreationDate="2016-02-06T13:58:39.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Bridge Encyclopedia identifies 4 situations in which trump promotions (&quot;the creation of trump tricks by forcing the premature use of trump cards by the opposition&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uppercut_(bridge)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Uppercuts&lt;/a&gt; - ruffing high to force opponent to overruff, thus promoting a trump trick in partner's hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Establishing long tricks in trumps by forcing opponent to ruff - as in a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Forcing_defense&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;forcing defense&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coup en passant to create a positional trump trick. Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;      K&#xA;      -&#xA;      -&#xA;      2&#xA;A           Q&#xA;-           -&#xA;-           A&#xA;A           -&#xA;&#xA;      J&#xA;      -&#xA;      2&#xA;      -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With spades as trumps and the lead in the south, if declarer (south) leads a trump, they lose both tricks. But if they lead a diamond, the spade King will be scored en passant - either west will trump and declarer will discard from dummy, or west will discard and declarer will ruff with the king.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A positional overruff threat. For example, if south holds KQx in trumps and west holds AJ, playing on trumps will lead to west taking a single trump trick. If instead east plays on a side suit in which south and west are both void, south must ruff high to prevent an overruff with the J, but this establishes the J as a second trump trick (as long as west does not overruff with the ace!).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T13:58:39.853" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T15:29:45.040" Score="3" ViewCount="2699" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Deceiver%20of%20Form&quot;&gt;Deceiver of Form&lt;/a&gt; is used to copy my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Biovisionary&quot;&gt;Biovisionary&lt;/a&gt;, does his &amp;quot;at the beginning of the end step&amp;quot; ability resolve before Deceiver of Form's &amp;quot;until end of turn&amp;quot; ability expires, thus making Deceiver of Form a fairly easy way to &amp;quot;win the game&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15212" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2016-02-06T16:12:05.313" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T16:12:05.313" Title="&quot;At the beginning of the end step&quot; versus &quot;Until end of turn&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28790" CreationDate="2016-02-06T16:06:58.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  &quot;At the beginning of the end step&quot; abilities trigger at, well, the beginning of the end step, while &quot;until end of turn effects&quot; expire at the beginning of the cleanup step, which is after the end step.  Thus, Biovisionary's ability will trigger and resolve while all your creatures are still Biovisionaries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Comprehensive Rules references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;512.1. The ending phase consists of two steps: end and cleanup. &lt;em&gt;[This appears to be the closest thing to an explicit statement that end precedes cleanup.]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;514.2. Second, the following actions happen simultaneously [during the cleanup step]: all damage marked on permanents (including phased-out permanents) is removed and all “until end of turn” and “this turn” effects end. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T16:06:58.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28793" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-06T22:47:53.667" Score="3" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;When bearing off - there is one checker in the 6 spot, 0 in the five spot, several each in the 4, 3, 2 spots.  There are 2 opponent checkers in the one spot. The roll is double 5's.  I can't move the 6 down to the one spot as my opponent is blocking that spot.  Can I bear off checkers in the 4 spot? If so, three or four checkers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15216" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T22:57:18.843" Title="backgammon scenario" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28793" CreationDate="2016-02-06T22:57:18.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, as per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://usbgf.org/learn-backgammon/rules-of-backgammon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official backgammon rules&lt;/a&gt; of the US Backgammon Federation you cannot move in this instance, and your turn is over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is no checker on the point indicated by the roll, the player must make a legal move using a checker on a higher-numbered point. If there are no checkers on higher-numbered points, the player is permitted (and required) to remove a checker from the highest point on which one of his checkers resides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Since you have no checker(s) on the five point you must make a legal move with those on the six point. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As there are no such legal moves, your turn is over.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are explicitly required to use the rolls of five &lt;em&gt;only to move checkers on the six point, &lt;strong&gt;while those exist&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-06T22:57:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28796" CreationDate="2016-02-07T02:18:01.023" Score="8" ViewCount="965" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20the%20Void&quot;&gt;Leyline of the Void&lt;/a&gt; prevent the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt;'s transformation by exiling the dragons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T03:01:24.260" Title="Scion of the Ur-Dragon and Leyline of the Void" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28795" CreationDate="2016-02-07T03:01:24.260" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even with Leyline of the Void in play, Scion of the Ur-Dragon's ability still works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant part of the ability is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Search your library for a Dragon permanent card and put it into your graveyard. If you do...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is actually a cost, as defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/index.php?title=Cost&quot;&gt;rule 117.12&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some spells, activated abilities, and triggered abilities read, &lt;strong&gt;“[Do something]. If [a player] [does or doesn’t], [effect].”&lt;/strong&gt; or “[A player] may [do something]. If [that player] [does or doesn’t], [effect].” The action [do something] is a cost, paid when the spell or ability resolves. The &lt;strong&gt;“If [a player] [does or doesn’t]” clause checks whether the player chose to pay an optional cost or started to pay a mandatory cost, regardless of what events actually occurred.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the last part of the rule says that the effect happens as long as you &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; to pay the cost, even if the outcome is different. In this case, as long as you find a Dragon permanent card and choose to put it in your graveyard, even if it doesn't actually end up in the graveyard, Scion of the Ur-Dragon still becomes a copy of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T03:01:24.260" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28799" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28812" CreationDate="2016-02-07T05:17:08.743" Score="2" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;The note in the rules for explorers and pirates states that &quot;settlements may not be built on intersections adjacent to undiscovered hexes.&quot;  I am new to this expansion, does this mean that no undiscovered hex can be within two 'road lengths' of a settlement like the distance rule for settlements in base Catan?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15219" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-02-07T12:39:17.660" LastActivityDate="2021-11-06T00:16:41.163" Title="Where can settlements be built near undiscovered hexes?" Tags="|catan-explorers-pirates|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28800" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28813" CreationDate="2016-02-07T05:28:08.373" Score="0" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;The note in the rules for explorers and pirates states that &quot;Roads may not be built on paths adjacent to undiscovered hexes&quot;  then goes on to state that &quot;If you build a road in such a way that one of its ends points towards an undiscovered hex, you can't discover that hex.  You can only discover hexes by means of ships.&quot;  The second statement seems to contradict the first.  Can I play a road leading towards an undiscovered hex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15219" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T15:30:37.000" Title="Explorers and pirates: Where can roads be built near undiscovered hexes?" Tags="|catan-explorers-pirates|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28805" CreationDate="2016-02-07T15:28:21.597" Score="8" ViewCount="15034" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm very new to Spades, and am trying to grasp the basic strategy.  In the few games that I've played so far, I've been sort of paranoid about bagging out; 100 points seems like a lot to lose.  (Of course, I might be wrong about that.)  Because of this, I've ended up overbidding several times in order to avoid bags.  So, I was wondering, how important is it for me to avoid overtricks and bagging out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15217" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:55:18.873" LastActivityDate="2021-05-01T03:09:24.023" Title="How important is it to avoid bagging out in Spades?" Tags="|spades|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28803" CreationDate="2016-02-07T16:16:12.767" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;What's the alternative to bagging out? If you over bid, you risk losing the number of points of your bid. If you under bid, you have a good chance of making your bid, and any bags are effectively minus points for that hand, but you still get the points for your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a bid of 9 that doesn't make it sets you back 90 points. A bid of 5 with 3 bags effectively nets you 20 points. So what's better, -90 points, or 20 points? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One flip side of under bidding is that you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; make your opponents over bid, causing them to go set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-07T16:16:12.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28807" CreationDate="2016-02-08T07:40:53.733" Score="3" ViewCount="5183" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=275264&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ghostly Prison&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=376459&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Propaganda&lt;/a&gt; work in 2HG? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specific, how do you apply the &quot;Can't attack you unless X&quot; to the game. Does it work for both players, i.e. no matter which player you attack you need to pay mana. Or does it only protect the player who controls the effect. In the latter case it would significantly reduce the effectiveness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3321" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:47:38.707" Title="&quot;Can't attack you unless&quot; in Two-Headed Giant" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28806" CreationDate="2016-02-08T07:53:16.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Propaganda etc. apply whenever the enemy team attacks your team.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In 2HG games you cannot be attacked individually, you always attack or defend as a team, so all attacking creatures attack both players at once and Propaganda costs will have to be paid for those creatures that don't attack Planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;810.7a Each team’s creatures attack the other team as a group. During the combat phase, the active team is the attacking team and each player on the active team is an attacking player. Likewise, the nonactive team is the defending team and each player on the nonactive team is a defending player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;810.7c As the declare attackers step begins, the active team declares attackers. If an effect of an object controlled by a defending player prohibits a creature from attacking him or her, that creature can’t attack the defending team. The active team has one combined attack, and that set of attacking creatures must be legal as a whole. See rule 508.1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1g If any of the chosen creatures require paying costs to attack, the active player determines the total cost to attack. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. Once the total cost is determined, it becomes “locked in.” If effects would change the total cost after this time, ignore this change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T14:47:38.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28808" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28809" CreationDate="2016-02-08T09:18:08.280" Score="12" ViewCount="3690" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just out of curiosity, what can I do to the card, so it's still legal to play it in official tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I draw something over ruling texts? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I draw something over artwork?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I draw something over mana cost?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can I draw something over its name?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll be glad to see some official rulings about it. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11538" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T12:23:01.087" LastActivityDate="2020-01-17T00:01:39.327" Title="Can I draw something on my card and play tournaments with it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28809" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28808" CreationDate="2016-02-08T09:33:10.870" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You may not change or make illegible a card's name or mana cost. Other restrictions also apply. A tournament's head judge is the final authority on anything that happens in that tournament, including what card modifications are acceptable.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes you can obscure and remove the rules text.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cannot completely replace the art work, the card must still be recognisable by its art.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The manacost must still be legible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The name must still be legible.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules for this question can be found in the MtG tournament rules (pdf):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.3 Authorized Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may use any Authorized Game Cards from Magic: The Gathering expansions, core sets, special sets, supplements, and promotional printings. Authorized Game Cards are cards that, unaltered, meet the following conditions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card is genuine and published by Wizards of the Coast&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card has a standard Magic back or is a double-faced card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card does not have squared corners.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card has black or white borders.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card is not a token card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card is not damaged or modified in a way that might make it marked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The card is otherwise legal for the tournament as defined by the format.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Head Judge of an event may issue a proxy (see section 3.4) for a card that has become worn or damaged during the tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any other cards that are not Authorized Game Cards are prohibited in all sanctioned tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unglued and Unhinged basic land cards are allowed in sanctioned Magic tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may use cards from the Alpha printing only if the deck is in opaque sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may use otherwise-legal non-English and/or misprinted cards provided they are not using them to create an advantage by using misleading text or pictures. Official promotional textless spells are allowed in sanctioned&#xA;  Magic tournaments in which they would otherwise be legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Artistic modifications are acceptable in sanctioned tournaments, provided that the modifications do not make the card art unrecognizable, contain substantial strategic advice, or contain offensive images. Artistic modifications also may not obstruct or change the mana cost or name of the card.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Head Judge is the final authority on acceptable cards for a tournament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What constitutes &quot;substantial strategic advice&quot; is covered by 2.11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.11 Taking Notes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players are allowed to take written notes during a match and may refer to those notes while that match is in progress. At the beginning of a match, each player’s note sheet must be empty and must remain visible throughout the match. Players do not have to explain or reveal notes to other players. Judges may ask to see a player’s notes and/or request that the player explain his or her notes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may not refer to other notes, including notes from previous matches, during games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Between games, players may refer to a brief set of notes made before the match. They are not required to reveal these notes to their opponents. These notes must be removed from the play area before the beginning of the next game. Excessive quantities of notes (more than a sheet or two) are not allowed and may be penalized as slow play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The use of electronic devices to take and refer to notes is permitted at Regular Rules Enforcement Level (see section 2.12 – Electronic Devices).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players and spectators (exception: authorized press) may not make notes while drafting. Players may not reference any outside notes during drafting, card pool registration, or deckbuilding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may refer to Oracle text at any time. They must do so publicly and in a format which contains no other strategic information. Consulting online sources, such as gatherer.wizards.com, is allowed at Regular Rules Enforcement Level. If a player wishes to view Oracle text in private, he or she must ask a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Artistic modifications to cards that indirectly provide minor strategic information are acceptable. The Head Judge&#xA;  is the final arbiter on what cards and notes are acceptable for a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T09:36:50.573" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T09:36:50.573" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28803" CreationDate="2016-02-08T09:40:56.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on the rules you're playing with, there are different risks you can afford. If you're playing up to 300 (or less) points, chances of a bagging penalty are slim if you bid for what you have, especially as a beginning player. You can always adjust your bidding strategy after taking 3-4 bags and still make it without the penalty. When playing for 500 points, you'll want to aim your bids more carefully.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you find yourself bidding too low, don't forget to throw away some spades or high cards after you hit your bid. This can cause the opponent to take bags, which is usually a good thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing with a blind nil rule, it can be entirely ok to take the penalty points every once in a while. Just play into a scenario where &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt; you take the penalty, you would be somewhere between 100 and 110 points behind. Then you would immediately qualify for blind nil and play break-even while claring all your bag points (assuming you succesfully complete the bnil).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T09:40:56.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28811" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28816" CreationDate="2016-02-08T12:13:43.903" Score="3" ViewCount="910" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought Cat Tower yesterday and the die came unlabeled with the stickers to be applied to each of the 6 faces. Unfortunately, it gave no indication as to how to apply the stickers.  Based upon a picture on the box, I was able to apply 3 of the faces, but am stuck on the remaining 3 faces.  Is there any indication as to how the faces should be arranged (for example I might guess the 2 one cat faces might be on opposite faces of the die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pictures or instructions appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1604" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T16:15:48.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T16:15:48.513" Title="How is the die for Cat Tower configured?" Tags="|dice|cat-tower|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28799" CreationDate="2016-02-08T12:18:13.567" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An intersection is formed at the point where three hexes meet. The intersection is hence adjacent to these three hexes. A settlement cannot be built if any of these three hexes is as yet undiscovered. The rule means nothing else, hence a settlement can definitely be built closer to an undiscovered hex than two road lengths away; it just has to be at least one road length away.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T12:18:13.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28813" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28800" CreationDate="2016-02-08T12:21:13.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no contradiction. A road is built between two hexes, hence it is adjacent to both these hexes. You can't build a road if one of these two hexes is undiscovered. You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; build a road between two discovered hexes such that at the end of the road is an undiscovered hex; it's just that building this road doesn't &quot;discover&quot; the hex.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T12:21:13.343" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2016-02-08T12:31:38.760" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as the die isn't poorly manufactured, the propablility to roll any given side is close (for a perfect die - identical) to 1/6. The actual placement of faces changes nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T12:31:38.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28811" CreationDate="2016-02-08T13:51:27.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A comment from the publisher on their &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/idwgames/cat-tower/comments&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kickstarter page&lt;/a&gt; answers your question perfectly:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baaRO.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/baaRO.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is their answer, but I'm also seeing complaints about unevenly shaped dice. If this is the case for your game, you should try to get your dice replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can't get your dice replaced, make sure you &lt;strong&gt;don't&lt;/strong&gt; put duplicates on opposing faces. You want &lt;strong&gt;dis&lt;/strong&gt;similar vales to oppose each other (eg 2 and 5 on a 1d6) to negate the effect of having &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13408/10113&quot;&gt;a flattened dice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T15:20:39.120" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28817" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28818" CreationDate="2016-02-08T19:50:25.063" Score="0" ViewCount="6440" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a particular scenario where there is a tie for same three of a kind. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two players - &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User1 with 10h and 6d&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User2 with 10d and 4c&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On table 10c, 10s, Kc, 3h, 2d&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who wins? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: h/d/s/c = Hearts/Diamonds/Spades/Clubs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15237" LastEditorUserId="15237" LastEditDate="2016-02-08T19:53:20.847" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T20:13:29.007" Title="How to break a Tie for a 3-of-a-kind" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-08T21:47:25.850" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28817" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:13:29.007" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When figuring out who wins in Texas Holdem you take the best 5 card hand a player can make using their 2 cards plus the 5 community cards on the table. That gives us:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1: 10, 10, 10, K, 6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 2: 10, 10, 10, K, 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since they both match on the 3 tens you look to the highest kicker card, in this case they both have kings so you need to look at the next highest card. For this card Player 1 has a 6 and Player 2 has a 4 so Player 1 will win the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokerlistings.com/poker-rules-texas-holdem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Texas Holdem Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T20:13:29.007" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:19:06.020" Score="3" ViewCount="4976" Body="&lt;p&gt;On my turn, I had tripped a base so it would score.  The other player played a special card that let him play any action as a special. He chose to play an action card that blocked the base from scoring until his next turn. I have a couple questions in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a base score as soon as it is tripped? Meaning, can he block it from scoring once it's tripped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think turn order says that a base scores after a minion and action card are played. Since I only played a minion, could I still play an action card on the tripped base, even after it is tripped? Or once it is tripped, are only special cards allowed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If normally only special cards are allowed on a tripped base, could I play a regular action card in this situation, since my opponent stopped it from scoring?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I trip a base with an action card, wait for it to score and then play a minion on the new base or does scoring the base wait until the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15240" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:30:20.710" Title="Scoring Bases in Smash Up" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23322" CreationDate="2016-02-08T20:28:02.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest program that I can suggest for doing this is with &lt;strong&gt;Tabletop Simulator&lt;/strong&gt;. It is a program on &lt;strong&gt;Steam&lt;/strong&gt; that is a physics engine with a wide variety of pre-loaded boardgames and tens of tools that allow you to emulate virtually &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; table-top game imaginable. In fact, the game has it's own Workshop application that has tens of thousands of games, sets and models to choose from, including some from WH40k&lt;a href=&quot;http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=556461188&amp;amp;searchtext=warhammer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=481518426&amp;amp;searchtext=warhammer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=494260969&amp;amp;searchtext=warhammer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T20:28:02.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28819" CreationDate="2016-02-08T23:30:20.710" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2012/06/AEG-SU-Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;order of play&lt;/a&gt; is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play 1 Action and/or 1 Minion, in either order. (And those cards may do other things, including playing additional Actions/Minions.) You and/or your opponent can also play Special cards, if the Special card allows it. (If the Special can only be played &quot;before the base scores&quot;, this is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; when you can play that card.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Score bases, if they've gone over the limit. (For each base, everyone can play &quot;before the base scores&quot; Special cards.) Once you start looking at a base to score it, it's going to finish being scored.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw 2 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So first off, bases will only be scored once you're doing playing &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of the Actions/Minions that interest you in a turn. They do &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; score immediately. (Read the card your opponent played carefully: if it says something along the lines of &quot;play an Action card as if it were a Special card that can be played before scoring&quot;, then your opponent played out of turn. If that's the case, he should have taken his card(s) back, allowed you to finish playing cards, and &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; re-played his card(s). On the other hand, if your opponent's card had much more loose terms, like &quot;play an Action as a Special card&quot;, then they're allowed to play their card in the middle of the Action/Minion part of your turn. And then the base quite definitely wouldn't score, because you don't check for base scoring at all during the Action/Minion part of a turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, once a base starts scoring, the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; thing that can possibly stop the scoring/discarding process is a card that explicitly says something along the lines of &quot;this base can't be scored.&quot; (Because rules on cards override rules in the rulebook.) If a Special or something reduces the total power at a base to below the threshold, that base &lt;em&gt;still scores&lt;/em&gt;, because it had enough power when it &lt;em&gt;began&lt;/em&gt; scoring. It's just going to look a little weird: perhaps someone manages to get 5 VP with 4 Power worth of minions, because that was the highest power at the time &amp;ndash; or perhaps the base &quot;scores&quot; with no minions on it at all, and nobody gets any VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL:DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A base does not score as soon as it's tripped; it scores after Actions/Minions and before you draw 2 cards. Only check to see if a base has tripped once you're done with Actions/Minions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read your opponent's card &lt;em&gt;very carefully&lt;/em&gt;. If it says &quot;...before a base scores&quot;, then he played it too early. He needs to take it back and play it later once you're done playing Action/Minion cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't play an Action/Minion after a base scores, because all Actions/Minions should be done playing before you score any base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of the above &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; be overridden by card text, but the card must be explicit about what it's doing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3212" LastActivityDate="2016-02-08T23:30:20.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-09T07:25:22.107" Score="3" ViewCount="3976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a Pocket Monster (Pokémon) card in Japanese. It is a fire energy with no numbers in the bottom right corner. Is this normal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15242" LastEditorUserId="20168" LastEditDate="2019-06-29T00:05:25.413" LastActivityDate="2019-06-29T00:05:25.413" Title="Is a Pokémon energy card with no numbers normal?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28825" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-09T08:14:10.833" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T08:14:10.833" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T08:14:10.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28826" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-09T08:14:10.833" Score="0" Body="Some Magic: the Gathering expansions and/or promotional cards are printed without the explicit intention to be playable in any formats, like the Un-Sets (Unglued, Unhinged, Unstable), or the Happy Holidays cards. These cards are banned in all Constructed formats, but may be house-ruled to be legal." OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2017-11-15T18:03:32.193" LastActivityDate="2017-11-15T18:03:32.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28824" CreationDate="2016-02-09T10:35:15.087" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Japan, most Basic Energies ever printed don't have any set number, because they were unnumbered. This is in contrast to English cards, where all Basic Energies were numbered up to Call of Legends expansion. Since Black &amp;amp; White expansion, most Basic Energy cards are also unnumbered, with the exception of cards found in booster packs as they have a different illustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bulbapedia has nice collection of &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Fire_Energy_(TCG)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fire Energy cards&lt;/a&gt;, including some Japanese cards without set number (click to enlarge):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/h1Kxc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/woh8p.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XwEWc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9zwDb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0K5Pt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3anog.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8638" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-10T01:39:20.717" LastActivityDate="2017-03-10T01:39:20.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28829" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28830" CreationDate="2016-02-09T14:08:18.117" Score="1" ViewCount="1416" Body="&lt;p&gt;On amazon, there are plenty of listings for 36 booster packs that are part of the same set. Given that there is one land card in each booster, and each pack comes with 15 cards, you would receive 14*36 = 504 non-land cards. Given there are generally 180-275 cards in a set and the distribution of cards is mostly skewed towards commons, isn't there a very high likelihood of getting more than 4 copies of the same card in a purchase like this, especially for sets with lower card counts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, do folks typically buy these sets for reasons other than deck building (drafting perhaps, or other reasons?) or would these boxes still be good purchases for those looking to get into deckbuilding for kitchen table games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15168" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:35:03.697" Title="Buying 36 booster packs for a magic the gathering set" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28829" CreationDate="2016-02-09T14:35:03.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first part of your question can be answered.  Yes, you may end up with more than 4 copies of the same card, and the chances of doing so obviously go up the more packs you buy.  People that buy packs in bulk are doing so to get the rare cards, of which there are only one card per pack.  You need to buy quite a few packs to get a play set (4 copies) of each rare.  The extra cards you get in the process could potentially be traded or sold to help recoup the cost (though you'll only get back a small percentage of what you spent).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why people do this, there are too many reasons to list.  Drafting, collecting, searching for a specific card, gifting, etc.  Buying a bunch of packs is a good way to get a random sampling of cards.  If you're trying to just have one strong deck, you're better off buying singles and/or preconstructed decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T14:35:03.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23276" CreationDate="2016-02-09T20:59:53.820" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You deduct the SO points from the Artillery Unit after you've collected your daily SO points.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://images.dvg.com/www.dvg.com/talrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; on page 21, the order in which actions happen during the &lt;em&gt;End of Day&lt;/em&gt; phase are pretty specific:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End of Day&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No Fly Stress Recovery&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Gain Special Option Points&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Move Enemy Battalions&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lose Special Option Points (Map)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the &lt;em&gt;End of Day&lt;/em&gt;, you gain your daily SO points before losing any because of your current map configuration. This includes any points lost through unit effects. This is confirmed by user Walter Gagajewski on Board Game Geek, where he &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/837346/afghanistan-holding-action-days-1-3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;outlines a play session&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I gained 5 SO for 6 total and lost 3 for the Command units at full strength, 2 for a unit effect, and 1 for a unit in Friendly Rear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His notation seems to be slightly out of order, showing SO gains and loses after the start of the next day, but his play flows in the same order as the rules indicate. The loss from a unit he is referencing in the above quote is from the Artillery Unit (1S), so that helps to verify how the Artillery Unit functions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Full disclosure: I have never played the game, but I've just spent a significant portion of my life reading the rulebook and searching the internet for player logs of game sessions.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-09T21:28:16.707" LastActivityDate="2016-02-09T21:28:16.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28854" CreationDate="2016-02-10T02:53:34.993" Score="2" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, admittedly, I'm brand new to Android: Netrunner. I only own the core set, I've only played five or six times, and I've only played as the Corp. I have moderately strong gaming experience, and while a bit rusty, know my way around building a deck. My wife, so far my only opponent, plays Shaper and every time has managed to get Magnum Opus up and running pretty quickly. The economy it provides, up to 8 credits a turn, is significant, especially with Kate lowering install costs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've only beaten her once (not counting a rule-naïve technical win our second match). I attribute this to her skill, of course, but also to that damn MO. The ice I install is almost always easily dealt with, since credits are often no object. Given the newness of the game and my opponent, my play style has been more exploratory than outright ruthless, but still: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides flatlining, or fast-advancing, or just being lucky, what are good strategies (again, I just have the core set) for dealing with the advantage of MO?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="8448" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T04:33:55.330" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T16:16:48.963" Title="Core Set ways of dealing with Magnum Opus" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28833" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:08:11.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thunderbolt Apache Leader&lt;/em&gt; is a miniatures wargame involving modern Close Air Support aircraft. It was first released in 1991 as &lt;em&gt;Thunderbolt/Apache Leader&lt;/em&gt; by GMT Games, and was reimplemented in 2012 as &lt;em&gt;Thunderbolt Apache Leader&lt;/em&gt; by DVG. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:38:01.927" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:38:01.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28834" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:08:11.050" Score="0" Body="A miniatures wargame involving modern Close Air Support aircraft. May refer to the 1991 or 2012 game." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:37:56.777" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:37:56.777" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28835" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:19:49.923" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Nim&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player mathematical strategy game in which players take turns removing objects from heaps. The earliest European references to Nim are in the 16th century, but variants have appeared since ancient times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nim&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:58.680" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:58.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28836" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:19:49.923" Score="0" Body="A two-player mathematical strategy game in which players take turns removing objects from heaps." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:36:37.110" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:36:37.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28837" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:22:12.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tiny Epic Galaxies&lt;/em&gt; is a dice-rolling, science fiction game in which players compete to have the strongest personal galaxy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:43.243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:43.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28838" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:22:12.643" Score="0" Body="A dice-rolling, science fiction game in which players compete to have the strongest personal galaxy." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:15.717" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:15.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28839" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:26:49.620" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Top Trumps&lt;/em&gt; is a collectible card game similar to the card game &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_(card_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;War&lt;/a&gt; with hundreds of themed decks. It was first published in 1968 and is most popular in the United Kingdom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:01.967" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:01.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28840" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:26:49.620" Score="0" Body="A collectible card game similar to the card game War with hundreds of themed decks." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:40:06.617" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:40:06.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28841" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:30:45.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trouble&lt;/em&gt; is a children's pawn racing game featuring the Pop-O-Matic dice roller. It was first published in 1965 by Kohner Bros, and later by Milton Bradley and then Hasbro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:37:51.533" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:37:51.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28842" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:30:45.480" Score="0" Body="A children's pawn racing game featuring the Pop-O-Matic dice roller." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:38:13.073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:38:13.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28843" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:33:51.993" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cat Tower&lt;/em&gt; is a children's die rolling game involving cats stacking on each others backs in order to reach fish on a shelf. The first release in 2013 was self-published. It was later published in 2016 by IDW Games and Pandasaurus Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:37:33.173" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:37:33.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28844" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:33:51.993" Score="0" Body="A children's die rolling game involving cats stacking on each others backs in order to reach fish on a shelf." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:09.320" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:09.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28845" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:40:14.853" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tragedy Looper&lt;/em&gt; is a deduction game in which players attempt to prevent tragedies from befalling key individuals. The first English edition was published in 2014 by Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:39:38.343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:39:38.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28846" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:40:14.853" Score="0" Body="A deduction game in which players attempt to prevent tragedies from befalling key individuals." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T09:37:39.117" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T09:37:39.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28847" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28850" CreationDate="2016-02-10T05:50:11.850" Score="1" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a power like Fanatic's &quot;Exorcism&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fanatic deals 1 target 1 melee damage and 1 radiant damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I choose to deal the radiant damage before the melee damage? Or do I have to deal the melee damage first because it is listed first? This would be important if I have an effect that deals bonus damage to the next damage that I deal, and one of the two damage types is preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:51:46.407" Title="If I deal multiple types of damage, do I need to deal them in the order listed?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28849" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T13:53:00.483" Score="0" ViewCount="175" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tormented%20Thoughts&quot;&gt;Tormented Thoughts&lt;/a&gt; on my 3/1 creature and to counter my opponent uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disperse&quot;&gt;Disperse&lt;/a&gt; to return it to my hand, is my Tormented Thoughts wasted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T14:00:47.840" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T14:23:06.100" Title="How does 'The Stack' work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-02-10T14:56:50.463" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28847" CreationDate="2016-02-10T13:55:54.290" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effects on cards that are separated by an &quot;and&quot; happen sequentially, so the melee damage will happen before the radiant damage.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From user phantaskippy (tagged as playtester) on the &lt;em&gt;Sentinels of the Multiverse&lt;/em&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://greaterthangames.com/forum/topic/kaargra-warfang-timing-question-6469&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;game forums&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any use of &quot;and&quot; will happen sequentially. . . . All uses of &quot;and&quot; in situations where timing is relevant are intended to be sequential. It may not be obvious, but it is at least consistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sentiment is repeated &lt;a href=&quot;https://greaterthangames.com/forum/topic/kismet-unsubtle-trickster-rule-question-8421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; by user Rabit (tagged as moderator and playtester) among the discussions about effect timing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Do things in the order described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reading through forum posts, the consensus follows this interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer the question about why this may be important, that is, you want to increase one damage type for a specific reason, Adam the Admin has &lt;a href=&quot;https://greaterthangames.com/forum/topic/fanatics-exorcism-power&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this to say over on the forums&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The damage is intended to be dealt individually. &lt;strong&gt;This means if it's increased, both melee and radiant are increased by 1 separately, and the same goes for when it's decreased.&lt;/strong&gt; A base reduction of -1 will make her do no damage at all, but a +1 will double her output. It essentially makes damage modifiers into multipliers for her innate power, which is in keeping with Fanatic being a high-risk/high-reward character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you are looking to increase the radiant damage, you're in luck. Any increase to Fanatic's damage output will increase both the melee and radiant damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T15:51:46.407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T15:51:46.407" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28849" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:05:44.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The stack does not matter here. Sacrificing a creature is part of the cost of casting Tormented Thoughts (it says so on the card). By the time your opponent has a chance to cast a spell, the creature you sacrificed will be in your graveyard, and therefore not a legal target for Disperse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T14:05:44.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28852" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28849" CreationDate="2016-02-10T14:23:06.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You opponent can't interact with the creature because by the time he/she gains priority to cast Disperse, the creature is in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of casting Tormented Thoughts is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the card on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce modes (N/A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose targets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose divisions (N/A)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Check targets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Calculate cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After 7, players can regain priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T14:23:06.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28832" CreationDate="2016-02-10T16:16:48.963" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing a Runner who can reliably and easily out econ you the best way to win is to have a game plan that can ignore their econ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Flatlining&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is probably best done out of Weyland in core. Splash some yellow tagging cards and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01070&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snare!&lt;/a&gt; and wait to blow their house up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You can also try to do this with a Jinteki deck, but it will be much harder as core Jinteki does not have the econ to support this play style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fast Advance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With just core this is a little harder to do, as you do not have enough 3/2 agendas. Probably best done out of HP using &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01059&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Biotic Labor&lt;/a&gt; with some &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01092&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;San Sans&lt;/a&gt; splashed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play Faster&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should be your go to strategy for most games with core only. The Runner has inevitability, you need to win before they get there. With just the core set the Runner will have a hard time finding the cards they need. Shaper has no in-faction tutor in core, so will have to either just draw a ton or spend influence on special order (and still draw a ton to find MO). Take advantage of this, win before she has set up. Try to take a few more risks early game, scoring behind a single piece of ice when she does not have the correct breaker to go through it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Traps&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy can be hard to pull off. It involves knowing your opponent and being able to bluff. However, it can be devastating. Pretending a &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01069&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Junebug&lt;/a&gt; is an agenda can win you the game. Or landing an &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01057&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Aggressive Secretary&lt;/a&gt; can blow up their rig, buying you time to score out before they can reassemble it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play Sideways&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is harder to do in core, but worth a try if you are feeling adventurous. The general idea here is to play mostly economy assets and upgrades. Spam them out, making many remote servers. The runner will have to waste valuable time and money to check and trash each of your servers. Mix in a few traps and after hitting one she may be more hesitant to check your remotes in the future, allowing you to &quot;sneak&quot; an agenda out with no protection. With core only, this is probably best done out of HB with some traps and San Sans splashed in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use Defensive Upgrades/Buy Some Data Packs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use upgrades to protect your Agendas. In core you are limited to &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01091&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Red Herrings&lt;/a&gt;, which adds a nice tax but is not great if the runner has tons of money. If you want to play this way it may be best to invest a little more into the game and pick up some data packs. Specifically Double Time for &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/04114&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Caprice Nisei&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02031&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;RP&lt;/a&gt; or What Lies Ahead for &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/02013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ash&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These are defensive upgrades that help you ignore a rich runner. Caprice brings server access down to a weighted coin flip in your favor. Ash relies on  a trace to force the Runner to try again. It is not the perfect solution to your problem but can help you get agendas out early before the runner is fully set up. Replicating Perfection (RP) is a Jinteki identity that helps you tax the runners clicks as well as money.    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also highly recommend you switch sides a few times. Playing as the Runner will give you a huge insight into how they play the game. What they are worried about, what they are looking for, when they feel safe. It will help you learn to exploit those weakness when you play Corp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5026" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T16:16:48.963" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28855" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28856" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:15:33.787" Score="5" ViewCount="2501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do I need to sacrifice a creature with the ability &amp;quot;becomes the target of a spell or ability, sacrifice it&amp;quot; (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frost%20Walker&quot;&gt;Frost Walker&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusionary%20Servant&quot;&gt;Illusionary Servant&lt;/a&gt;) if the spell or ability has been countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15058" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-02-10T17:51:45.793" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T14:11:30.393" Title="Do abilities like &quot;becomes the target of a spell or ability, sacrifice it&quot; happen even if the spell is countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28855" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:25:01.023" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you will still have to sacrifice the creature even if the spell that triggered it gets countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Examples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's use Frost Walker as an example. The following events happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Frost%20Walker&quot;&gt;Frost Walker&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frost Walker's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Lightning Bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counterspell resolves. Lightning Bolt is countered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Frost Walker's ability resolves. You sacrifice Frost Walker.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countering Lightning Bolt does not also counter Frost Walker's triggered ability. You could, however, use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stifle&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt; to counter the ability itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spellskite&quot;&gt;Spellskite&lt;/a&gt; cannot save Frost Walker. Frost Walker triggers &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; upon being targeted. Frost Walker's ability does not care if you redirect the target to Spellskite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Standard%20Bearer&quot;&gt;Standard Bearer&lt;/a&gt; can save Frost Walker, at least from spells that only have one target. If your opponent targets Frost Walker, you say &amp;quot;That's illegal. You have to target Standard Bearer.&amp;quot; The game then rewinds to the point before your opponent cast the spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T14:11:30.393" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T14:11:30.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28855" CreationDate="2016-02-10T17:27:48.367" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still sacrifice the creature, even if the original spell is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When [this creature] becomes the target of a spell or ability, sacrifice it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and a spell or ability targets it, the following happens in your scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The spell or ability goes on the stack, targeting the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature's ability triggers, and goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The counter spell goes on the stack, targeting the original spell or ability. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The counter spell resolves, and the original spell or ability leaves the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature's ability resolves, and you sacrifice it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the triggered ability is on the stack, removing the spell or ability that originally triggered it doesn't do anything to the triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T17:27:48.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2016-02-10T18:59:03.030" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our games, we actually thought we were supposed to eradicate them all :D we played about six games (with 4 epidemic cards), all except one were doomed because of running out of cards. In the last game, we were just 1 damn turn from eradicating them all. It really requires a nasty load of luck in every part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15258" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T18:59:03.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28897" CreationDate="2016-02-10T21:59:43.380" Score="0" ViewCount="1080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Citadels is an &lt;em&gt;awesome&lt;/em&gt; game, but playing our first game last night, I found many of us frequently wanted to refer to the character sheet in the rules to get an overview of all of the abilities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wish they'd included this information as a reference card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a PDF I can print with this info? Ideally it will be a nice small size. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T16:39:14.143" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T16:39:14.143" Title="Is there a reference sheet I can print for the characters?" Tags="|citadels|reference|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28860" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-10T22:14:54.173" Score="7" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;What should be taken into consideration when mixing fluxx sets? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played a game of Stoner and Zombie fluxx mixed the other day, and I found it super fun. It add variance to the theming, and especially with the Stoner fluxx (if you're playing with the, ahem, special rules) and stretches it out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the potential pitfalls of mixing sets, and what else should be taken into consideration? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T07:03:42.883" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T06:11:09.623" Title="What should be taken into consideration when mixing Fluxx sets?" Tags="|house-rules|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28859" CreationDate="2016-02-10T22:52:23.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always make a reference sheet from an online copy of the rules or print off the pages of rules that you need to reference to for you games. Here is an online source for the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/f2/e7/f2e74a36-bed7-4a38-aff4-c2e968a1c369/citadels-rules-english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; that can help you with what you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-02-10T22:52:23.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28860" CreationDate="2016-02-11T01:11:33.457" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mixing Fluxx sets is fun, but it will:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;probably make the games take longer since you have half as much chance of getting a relevant keeper.  The more sets you add the lower the chances of getting the card you want will be.   With 3 decks your chances are 1/3.  With 4 decks your chances are 1/4.  And so on.  [Thanks to @SocioMatt for encouraging this generalization.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;get weird.  Some sets, like Star Fluxx, have keepers with superpowers which might overpower the other set you mix with it.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/559954/compatibility-fluxx-decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reports&lt;/a&gt; indicate that Monty Python Fluxx doesn't mix well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stoner Fluxx and some non-English Fluxx editions have different backs which might let your opponent figure out which cards you don't have more easily.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T15:48:54.090" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T15:48:54.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28864" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28870" CreationDate="2016-02-11T09:17:04.627" Score="2" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing Alien frontiers, if a field is already placed on a territory, am I allowed to place another field on the same territory?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14921" LastActivityDate="2018-03-16T16:18:04.447" Title="Alien frontiers: how many fields in a single territory?" Tags="|alien-frontiers|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28865" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28866" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:47:08.710" Score="1" ViewCount="105" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to know if taking a little break can be a good idea in go.&#xA;I've read several threads saying that people became stronger after a short break.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can it be true ? Is there some subconscious learning while not practising ?&#xA;Is there a possibility to forget bad habits during this period ? And how long should the break be ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T10:53:45.360" Title="Can having a short break help improve at Go?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-02-12T07:00:18.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28865" CreationDate="2016-02-11T10:53:45.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it &lt;strong&gt;CAN&lt;/strong&gt;. There is no warranty that a short break will improve your Go, but it can help. Take a typical vacation (about two weeks) as a good measure for the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The probably best recipe for improving Go is quite to the contrary: Do every day &lt;strong&gt;something&lt;/strong&gt; with Go, 10 minutes per day are sufficient (e.g., solving a life and death problem or finding a tesuji).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I found the playing over-the-board tournaments (being immersed with Go one weekend long) helps a lot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T10:53:45.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29595" CreationDate="2016-02-11T12:21:26.090" Score="3" ViewCount="229" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dark City expansion increases replay value for casual play by adding extra character roles. But what about tournament play? Is there a combination of characters that is commonly used in a tournament setting? Or maybe there's a character (or combination of characters) that's banned/excluded from official events?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There already is a (somewhat subjective) &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1502/what-is-the-most-balanced-competitive-character-set-in-citadels&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt; about balance and preference. I'm looking for a source with authority, like a publisher, or (inter)national tournament host, or anything that comes close.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:25:58.160" Title="Is there a (tournament) standard for character picks?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T15:56:19.633" Score="2" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) How do you get better at this? Is it just memorizing pro games or does it just come with time?&#xA;2) Does it actually improve your game or is it just sort of nice to have.&#xA;3) At what point should I actively try to improve on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15267" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T18:03:31.097" Title="Questions about memorizing go games" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28870" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28864" CreationDate="2016-02-11T16:31:49.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can have multiple fields in the same territory.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamesalute.com/sites/default/files/AlienFrontiers-rules_0.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; don't explicitly address this (Fields can be found on page 12). However, there is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/706941/multiple-fields-same-territory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;thread on Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt; where this question is asked, and multiple users answer that it is &quot;perfectly legal,&quot; with no dissenting opinions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Between the lack of explicit ruling in the rulebook, and the validation from other users, it appears that you are fine to place or move fields into the same territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:31:49.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28871" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-11T16:56:27.280" Score="4" ViewCount="2222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically, can I counter &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragonlord%20Dromoka&quot;&gt;Dragonlord Dromoka&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidmage%20Apprentice&quot;&gt;Voidmage Apprentice&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15271" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T09:05:51.007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T15:32:05.950" Title="Can I counter a spell that can't be countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28871" CreationDate="2016-02-11T16:57:53.553" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a limit on Dromoka's can't be countered? Nope, so it can't be countered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the flip itself isn't an ability, but the triggered counter is an ability. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T16:57:53.553" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28871" CreationDate="2016-02-11T17:02:00.667" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot counter Dragonlord Dromoka with Voidmage Apprentice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dromoka cannot be countered at all, it doesn't matter what is trying to counter it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &amp;quot;When ~ is turned face up, ...&amp;quot; is a triggered ability. So flipping a card face up is a special action that doesn't use the stack, and once the card is face up its ability triggers and is put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead you were trying to counter something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abrupt%20Decay&quot;&gt;Abrupt Decay&lt;/a&gt; that &amp;quot;can't be countered by spells or abilities.&amp;quot; you still couldn't counter it because you would still be using an ability to try and counter it. The &amp;quot;by spells or abilities&amp;quot; rider is there on spells with targets so that if a spell has no legal targets it can still be countered by the game rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="15037" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T11:26:55.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T11:26:55.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28874" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-11T17:08:39.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trumpet&lt;/em&gt; is a trick-taking game involving six suits with cards numbered one through eleven, plus 3 wild cards, and a scoring track. It was first released in 1990 by International Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T17:54:40.813" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T17:54:40.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28875" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-11T17:08:39.727" Score="0" Body="A trick-taking game involving six suits with cards numbered one through eleven, plus 3 wild cards, and a scoring track." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T06:59:44.243" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T06:59:44.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28869" CreationDate="2016-02-11T18:00:25.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, memorizing games is more of an effect than a cause: Memorizing games won't improve your own game so much as improving your own game will help you memorize them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fundamentally, Go is all about recognizing and applying patterns, and the more patterns you have in your arsenal, the easier it is to recognize and apply them in the future (be that during actual gameplay or memorizing). The trick when memorizing pro games is seeing those patterns and understanding exactly &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; a pro made a particular move; when the intended result is understood, the progression of stones &lt;em&gt;toward&lt;/em&gt; that result tends to flow naturally. Well, as naturally as they can considering the opponent is usually going out of his way to stop it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Side note: Attempting to memorize low-level amateur games is often an exercise in frustration and futility because so many of their moves &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; (seem to) make any sort of sense at all.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as actively trying to improve your memorization, I'd say focus on your own games; if you can't yet replay your games more-or-less from scratch, learn how. Not only is the ability to recreate and review troublesome situations after a game you just played an &lt;em&gt;invaluable&lt;/em&gt; learning tool, but this is typically far easier than memorizing pro games: Unlike pros who tend to be thinking a thousand moves or so ahead, you (presumably) know what you were actually thinking when you made each and every one of &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if you &lt;em&gt;weren't&lt;/em&gt; thinking when you made most of your moves, you might want to work on that first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Memorizing pro games can be nice, but I'd use that more as an exercise in how well you actually &lt;em&gt;understand&lt;/em&gt; them than an end in and of itself. You don't want to just be all &quot;And then white played at j10 and then black played at j11 and then white played at o9 for some reason&quot; so much as &quot;White extended, black blocked and then white threatened black's weakness on the right side to give himself some more room to maneuver&quot;. The first is only useful if the board position in your actual game is more-or-less exactly the same (which, let's be honest, will never be the case), while the second can be abstracted out and applied to almost any scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T18:00:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28869" CreationDate="2016-02-11T18:03:31.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Practice recall.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to reproduce a game that you have played immediately after the game finished. You can do it collaboratively with your partner. It helps to get through the thoughts behind the moves again and to analyse what went wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think it is necessary (nor really useful) to have a long-term memory of Go games learned by heart. Instead, you need learn good moves, good shapes and crucial points, i.e., abstractions of concrete games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T18:03:31.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28436" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:02:50.467" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can record your matches - including handicaps, so that the winner &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; the winner - on our platform &lt;a href=&quot;https://rankade.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rankade&lt;/a&gt;. It's a free ranking system for sports and games, suitable for Chess, Go, Scrabble, and more. Rankade doesn't use Elo, but its algorithm (called ree algorithm), although more complex (here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://rankade.com/ree#ranking-system-comparison&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;comparison&lt;/a&gt;), is similar to Elo if you play 1-on-1 matches only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14213" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T19:02:50.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28880" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:08:27.443" Score="3" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bang!, does the distance between characters decrease when a player is eliminated? Or, if a character is at a distance of 3 from you, will they always be a distance of 3 from you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15274" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T16:37:34.773" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T16:37:34.773" Title="Distance between characters" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28879" CreationDate="2016-02-11T19:25:26.427" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;An eliminated player no longer contributes to distance.  If this were not the case, in a large game you could quite easily have situations where nobody could reach anybody else for many turns in a row.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dvgiochi.net/bang/bang_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a character is eliminated, he is no longer counted when evaluating the distance: some players will get &quot;closer&quot; when someone is eliminated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-11T20:30:02.047" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T20:30:02.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28881" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24391" CreationDate="2016-02-11T21:56:58.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an interesting question in part because I think it will depend on what your opponents have. Blue buildings trigger on every roll, but don't tend to generate as much income as the green buildings. If your opponents have a lot of red buildings, I'd guess it would be more helpful to have green buildings so that you can earn a lot in one go (and red buildings trigger first). Blue buildings can have income trickle in more regularly, but the income will trickle out for your rolls that trigger red buildings and for their rolls that trigger purple buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Red buildings will probably still be useful, though not as useful as in 4 player games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played a lot of three player games of Machi Koro, but I would guess that it provides the best balance between the power of the differently colored buildings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T21:56:58.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28883" CreationDate="2016-02-11T23:37:19.967" Score="3" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/28809/15277&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; are quoted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.3 Authorized Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may use cards from the Alpha printing &lt;strong&gt;only if the deck is in opaque sleeves&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why is this?&lt;/strong&gt; As far as I remember there was an idea of having different card backs for each edition/expansion, but it was decided later to have the only one card back, which makes all cards compatible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What makes cards from Alpha different so that they could be recognized without an opaque sleeve?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15277" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T23:38:32.870" Title="Why do cards from Alpha have to be in opaque sleeves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28882" CreationDate="2016-02-11T23:38:32.870" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the corners of alpha cards are distinctly different from the other editions of magic cards, it would be equivalent to playing with a marked deck, since presumably all your cards won't be alpha.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1583" LastActivityDate="2016-02-11T23:38:32.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28884" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-12T02:04:28.500" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Constantinopolis&lt;/em&gt; is a resource management game in which players take the role of merchants in the 6th Century Byzantine Empire. The English edition was first published in 2010 by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further reading:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31483/constantinopolis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T07:45:19.633" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T07:45:19.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28885" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-12T02:04:28.500" Score="0" Body="A resource management game in which players take the role of merchants in the 6th Century Byzantine Empire." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T07:45:26.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T07:45:26.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28886" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28859" CreationDate="2016-02-12T09:04:41.770" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one! It actually comes with the version of Citadels that I own.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The example pictures I found are in French and Italian though:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/279467/citadels?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/279467/citadels?size=original&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/51653/citadels?size=original&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/51653/citadels?size=original&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T09:04:41.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2016-02-12T09:05:23.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Including Dark City extension, I personnaly love following deck:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thief (mandatory role if Navigator enters in game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magician (stacking all cards with Navigator can be dangerous)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King (the Emperor could be interesting also depending on number of players)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishop (mandatory to protect against Diplomat, Abbot is not useful)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alchimist (losing green district taxes but powerful in combination with Navigator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Navigator (high rewards but high risk: being stolen&#xA;or betwitched)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diplomat (swapping is more interesting than&#xA;destroying)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This set creates high tension game with a lot of money to steal. I think this is balanced and interesting for games with at least 4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T09:05:23.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24391" CreationDate="2016-02-12T10:39:27.010" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As usual, I think it depends on what your opponent have.&#xA;Some guidelines I usually follow:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most of the players are still rolling with one dice? Then try to buy the Sushi Bar: it is cheap and you receive a lot of income if your opponents roll a 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there a Mine available and you can purchase it? Do it. The number 9 is likely to be rolled with a huge amount of chances.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are your opponents builidng a lot of red buildings? Build the IRS if available.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15281" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T10:39:27.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24998" CreationDate="2016-02-12T12:48:19.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Double-sided cards, such as Spells or Conditions, are immediately&#xA;  shuffled back into their respective decks when discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Discarding&quot; (page 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unique Assets are double-sided cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Mountains of Madness (or later) rules don't list any exception that would make you not shuffle them when discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You shuffle them in, just like all other double-sided cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T12:48:19.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13782" CreationDate="2016-02-12T13:03:05.603" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As was already mentioned, &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the reference guide&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator cannot have multiple copies of the same&#xA;  Condition. If he would gain a Condition that he already has a&#xA;  copy of, he does not gain another copy of that Condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;However&lt;/em&gt;, this rule does not prevent a player from making a choice to gain a condition, and then failing to actually gain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This issue is solved in &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/e3/a5/e3a58886-072b-4ca2-9709-e723af370203/eh_errata__faq_2016-01-19.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the official errata&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Reference Guide, on page 4, the third bullet point&#xA;  under “Conditions” should read as follows: “An investigator&#xA;  cannot gain a copy of a Condition that he already has. &lt;strong&gt;An&#xA;  investigator cannot choose to gain a copy of a Condition&#xA;  that he already has.&lt;/strong&gt;”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T13:03:05.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T14:52:34.517" Score="0" ViewCount="117" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find Android: Netrunner to be one of the most thematically rich games I've ever played. The role of credits is obvious in many of the interactions and mechanics; in the game, much like in real life, everything costs money. One major use for credits, however, I find thematically elusive: the runner spends credits to strengthen their icebreaker programs and break subroutines. Much of the core action in the game, running on servers, comes down to whether the runner has made enough money and can afford to turn it into a successful run. How does this use for money make sense, in-world?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="8448" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T16:15:19.593" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T16:26:44.070" Title="Thematic relevance of credits when icebreaking" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28891" CreationDate="2016-02-12T15:17:19.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine a team of criminals planning to rob a bank. They need money to: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy and maintain equipment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conduct dummy runs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bribe corrupt police officers to get information or turn a blind eye&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade the getaway vehicle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay for fuel/food/cool hideouts etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my mind, similar espionage costs apply to the runner. Let's take the icebreaker Yog.0 as an example, which has the fluff text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Yog.0 database is a crowdsourced compilation of sniffed, spoofed, and logged passkeys. If the key to the gate is in the database, you're in. If it's not, change the gate!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pumping up the strength represents that the gate you've come too is causing trouble and you need to 'emergency crowdsource' a key (read as 'pay some shady guy to give you the key for this gate'), or similar workarounds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorDisplayName="user10232" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T16:26:44.070" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T16:26:44.070" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28893" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28918" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:02:09.673" Score="3" ViewCount="3305" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hand Destruction's effect reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Spell/Quick Play)&lt;/strong&gt; Each player sends 2 cards from their hand to the graveyard, then each player discards 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is simple: If I, or my opponent, have less than 2 cards in the hand, can I activate it? And also, will it resolve successfully if there's less than 2 cards on one's hand on its resolution time? (say, for example, if someone chains a trap which discards one card as a cost) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;P.S.:&lt;/strong&gt; There are old rulings from Upper Deck Entertainment that say it can't be activated, but they're not official anymore.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11810" LastEditorUserId="22373" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:49:46.143" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:49:46.143" Title="Can I activate and resolve Hand Destruction with less than 2 cards in one's hand?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28894" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:13:27.927" Score="1" ViewCount="694" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398640&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alchemist's vial&lt;/a&gt;'s ability as an instant, if you are able to pay the cost? For example, can it be used to prevent my creature from attacking, once i have declared it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-02-12T18:17:05.197" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T10:56:56.513" Title="Alchemists Vial rules" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28895" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28894" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:20:01.520" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are able to activate it anytime you could cast an instant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However once a creature has been declared an attacking or blocking creature the Vial's ability doesn't do anything, since it prevents a creature from being declared an attacker/blocker but doesn't undo that declaration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Gatherer Rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Activating the last ability of Alchemist’s Vial targeting a creature that’s already attacking or blocking won’t cause that creature to stop attacking or blocking. It will prevent that creature from attacking or blocking in any additional combat phases the turn may have (although this is unusual).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T18:20:01.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28871" CreationDate="2016-02-12T18:47:46.180" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to the question as written is no.  But, the answer to the question in the subject line is different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is, it depends on your definition of &amp;quot;counter a spell.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your definition is the usual, technical definition, then as other answers have pointed out, you cannot counter a spell that cannot be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if your definition is a bit broader, such as, &amp;quot;stop that spell from resolving, no matter what.&amp;quot;  Then the answer is YES.  Here is what we've found so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remove the Spell from the Stack&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Venser%20Shaper%20Savant&quot;&gt;Venser Shaper Savant&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brutal%20Expulsion&quot;&gt;Brutal Expulsion&lt;/a&gt; are cards that directly return spells from the stack to their owner's hand.  This is a tempo play, but sometimes that's all you need.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;End the turn&lt;/strong&gt;.  Here, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stop&quot;&gt;Time Stop&lt;/a&gt;, or if it's your turn, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sundial%20of%20the%20Infinite&quot;&gt;Sundial of the Infinite&lt;/a&gt; are two options.  If you have a way to cast sorceries as instants (for instance &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypersonic%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Hypersonic Dragon&lt;/a&gt;) you can also use, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Day%20Undoing&quot;&gt;Day Undoing&lt;/a&gt; but only on your turn will it destroy the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kill the player&lt;/strong&gt;.  Sort of obvious, but if you're in a multiplayer game, and someone is casting that creature using a flash ability during Bob's turn, you can &amp;quot;just&amp;quot; kill Bob while that spell is on the stack, and that will stop the spell from coming into play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T15:32:05.950" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T15:32:05.950" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28859" CreationDate="2016-02-12T23:06:50.660" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good rule of thumb: when looking for a reference for a board or card game, always check BoardGameGeek. Here's the most popular Citadels reference available there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/18772/universal-head-citadels-reference&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/18772/universal-head-citadels-reference&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you can find a ton more in the Files section of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/478/citadels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels detail page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I believe you have to sign up for an account to download files off BGG, but if you're into board games it's totally worth it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15285" LastActivityDate="2016-02-12T23:06:50.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28898" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-12T23:55:36.390" Score="-2" ViewCount="3276" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, can you use &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398427&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pyromancer's Goggles&lt;/a&gt;' ability to use a spell twice on a single target creature or player? Like, can my opponent cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398632&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Chandra's Fury&lt;/a&gt; on me twice for 8 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14901" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T16:36:40.240" LastActivityDate="2021-05-24T20:45:06.497" Title="When a card says &quot;you may choose new targets for the copy&quot;, do you have to choose new targets?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28898" CreationDate="2016-02-13T00:07:12.363" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's what &quot;may&quot; means: you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; choose new targets for the copy, but if you don't, it keeps the original target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the many rulings &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398427&quot;&gt;on the Gatherer page for Pyromancer's Goggles&lt;/a&gt; says as much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The copy will have the same targets as the spell it’s copying unless you choose new ones. You may change any number of the targets, including all of them or none of them. If, for one of the targets, you can’t choose a new legal target, then it remains unchanged (even if the current target is illegal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T00:07:12.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28901" CreationDate="2016-02-13T06:16:59.363" Score="10" ViewCount="17658" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that if I gain control of my opponent's commander, it won't lose the status of commander. How is the commander damage calculated in this case? Can I do the 21 commander damage with the stolen commander to win the game? Does the damage add to the damage of my own commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:41:47.407" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:05:10.237" Title="Can I defeat an opponent with their own commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28900" CreationDate="2016-02-13T08:18:41.653" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can make a player lose by dealing 21 total damage to them with their own commander. (If it keeps getting stolen by yourself or others, a cumulative total 21 damage from their own commander will make them lose.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule, from mtgcommander.net's &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules &amp;mdash; Play section&lt;/a&gt;, is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;11&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If a player has been dealt 21 points of combat damage by a particular Commander during the game, that player loses a game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is any one specific commander card, including their own. Commander damage from different commander cards doesn't count together: if you've successfully stolen every commander on the board and dealt 20 damage with each of them to one opponent, they &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; haven't lost to commander damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, commander damage never makes anyone &lt;em&gt;win&lt;/em&gt; directly, it only makes players lose. You'll only win if them losing made you win, e.g. they were your only opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-12-30T15:05:10.237" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:05:10.237" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28894" CreationDate="2016-02-13T09:15:10.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;All activated abilities can be played anytime you could play an instant, unless the card specifically states otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic Comprehensive Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;112.3b Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]” &lt;strong&gt;A player may activate such an ability whenever he or she has priority.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T10:56:56.513" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T10:56:56.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28903" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28905" CreationDate="2016-02-13T09:52:07.183" Score="3" ViewCount="2050" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've been playing an Abzan displacer deck for some time now and the following interaction only just occurred to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Displacer&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland%20Strangler&quot;&gt;Wasteland Strangler&lt;/a&gt; in play and my opponant has two creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I target one of his creatures, and then in response to it entering the battlefield being on top of the stack (whilst it's still in exile) flicker my wasteland strangler and put that creature into the graveyard from exile instead of back on the battlefield and obviously give another creature -3/-3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the crux of the question is: is the creature targeted by eldrazi displacer intractable whilst in exile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15291" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-02-13T10:33:11.690" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T14:18:15.470" Title="Can I interact with a creature exiled with Eldrazi Displacer?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28903" CreationDate="2016-02-13T10:00:00.567" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically for Eldrazi Displacer, no. Its ability's effects all resolve at once, so the creature will be exiled and be put back onto the battlefield immediately. Unlike say, Flickerwisp, there is no delay in returning the creature, so there is no chance for you to target it in exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15048" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T10:00:00.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28903" CreationDate="2016-02-13T14:18:15.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the effect of Displacer, while the ability itself uses the stack, the creature actually blinked is not on the stack.  When the ability resolves, the entirety of the ability happens, before priority is regained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-13T14:18:15.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28910" CreationDate="2016-02-14T11:42:49.110" Score="0" ViewCount="2356" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am moving as Dracula it is possible for me to get into a position where I have literally no legal moves left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: I could go to the Mediterranean Sea, go to the Tyrrhenian Sea, and then go to Cagliari. From that point, I do not have the cards to go to either Sea anymore, and there is no land location I can go to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12616" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-02-14T16:28:28.580" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T16:35:34.597" Title="What happens if I can't make a legal move?" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28907" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T12:23:04.607" Score="3" ViewCount="750" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prosperity&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt; with X being 100 and one player has 50 cards and the other has 60, does the one with 50 cards lose first since he runs out first or do you wait until the spell resolves and it ends up to be a tie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15295" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T01:17:40.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T01:17:40.587" Title="When do you check if you lose" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28907" CreationDate="2016-02-14T13:33:31.833" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It will be a draw, both players lose at the same time.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MtG uses a system of &lt;em&gt;state-based actions&lt;/em&gt; This is a sort of clean-up system that checks the game state almost continuously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;704&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-Based Actions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.1. State-based actions are game actions that happen automatically whenever certain conditions (listed below) are met. State-based actions don’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Priority&lt;/em&gt; is the game's term for who has the right to take actions. Generally, whenever something happens such as a spell is cast or resolves, or steps/phases change, the &lt;em&gt;active player&lt;/em&gt; (the player whose turn it is) gets priority. Only the player with priority may cast spells, activate abilities, etc. The player with priority may also &lt;em&gt;pass priority&lt;/em&gt;, giving it to the next player in turn order. This continues until all players have passed priority in succession and the stack is empty, then the current step or phase ends. This is how the game progresses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before a player gets priority, however, state-based actions are checked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3b The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based actions are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; checked while a spell resolves, only immediately after it has resolved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.4. Unlike triggered abilities, state-based actions pay no attention to what happens during the resolution of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore in your case it is not important which player had more cards in his library. Both players lose at the same time because they attempted to draw a card from an empty library:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5. The state-based actions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5b If a player attempted to draw a card from a library with no cards in it since the last time state-based actions were checked, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T16:42:24.423" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28909" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-14T14:27:04.443" Score="1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules are very unclear on this. Do we take these cards on hand for the next round? Are they discarded? Or shuffled into the draw pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And do I keep the current 5 cards in my hand, or do I start over with cards 1-5? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T16:00:17.373" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T15:30:57.667" Title="In Diamonsters, what happens to the cards on your monster board at the end of a round?" Tags="|diamonsters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28906" CreationDate="2016-02-14T16:35:34.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Fury%20Of%20Dracula/furyofdracularules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; cover this on page 13 and 25 when covering Dracula's movement rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Crossing His Own Trail&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dracula may only move to a location if its&#xA;  card is available to him. Thus, he cannot normally&#xA;  move back into a location while its card&#xA;  remains in his Trail or Catacombs. The only&#xA;  exception to this rule is when he uses his&#xA;  Double Back Power card (see “Dracula’s&#xA;  Powers,” page 20). In the unlikely event that&#xA;  Dracula maneuvers himself into a position&#xA;  where he has no legal move, he is punished as&#xA;  though he were caught cheating (see&#xA;  “Cheating,” on page 25) and then takes his&#xA;  turn as normal (assuming he didn’t lose the&#xA;  game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cheating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Hopefully, the Dracula player will never cheat&#xA;  on purpose. But if he makes a move and later&#xA;  finds out that he accidentally moved along a&#xA;  rail route or made a similarly illegal move, it’s&#xA;  important to undo the damage and get the&#xA;  game underway again. However, Dracula also&#xA;  needs to suffer a penalty to make up for the&#xA;  Hunters’ lost time. We suggest the following&#xA;  penalty for a Dracula player who catches himself&#xA;  (or is caught) cheating. Although it may&#xA;  seem severe, the hope is that the Dracula player&#xA;  will quickly learn to be more careful in the&#xA;  future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• Dracula immediately clears his Trail down&#xA;  to one card and reveals his current location.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  • Additionally, Dracula loses Blood as&#xA;  though he had just suffered a “Killed”&#xA;  result in combat. However, if this would&#xA;  reduce him to 0 Blood, it only reduces&#xA;  him to 1 Blood instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T16:35:34.597" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28911" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="401" CreationDate="2016-02-14T21:29:22.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The statistics are interesting and I certainly can't argue with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My thinking is that it does not give any lasting advantage.  It is nice to produce and ship early but it is also nice to produce a good that has Trade value early on too.  In other words your strategy for a particular game may be influenced, for good or ill, by the seating order.  Part of that influence originates from the first round effects of seating.  However, the seating arrangement/order of play matters at least as much for trading, shipping, etc.; but not because someone got corn or indigo to start.  For instance, if the person to my right produces the same items and likes to trade frequently I find that has much more of an impact than that they initially had a corn plantation or an indigo plantation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15298" LastEditorUserId="15298" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T14:03:52.547" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:03:52.547" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28912" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-02-14T22:31:25.580" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to this link (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.qcsalon.net/en/uno&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.qcsalon.net/en/uno&lt;/a&gt;), a +4 can't be played on top of +2 or vice-versa. There are other rules too, regarding playing of a +4 card, you can choose to follow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15300" LastActivityDate="2016-02-14T22:31:25.580" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28913" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28917" CreationDate="2016-02-14T22:38:37.010" Score="8" ViewCount="1635" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to design a new game, where one of the key mechanics of the game is to make decisions (or let the dice make them for you). I'm trying to figure out how best to design this into a card, and make it look understandable, and not require too much space. Essentially what the players have is a decision tree, for those not familiar this would be an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUvog.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iUvog.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I expect to have many of these tree (1 per card) and I need to figure out how to present them. I can think of two options, I can either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Provide a visual representation of the Tree like above. My tree would most likely just contain numbers rather than captions on it and would have a textual section to accompany it.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Just provide a textual representation which for the example tree might be:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Is the picture clear? Yes (goto 2), No (goto 3)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2) Is there sound? Yes, No (goto 4)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3) Is the Screen Blank? Yes (goto 5), No&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4) Check the mute button&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  5) Is there sound? Yes, No (goto 6)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  6) Check power cord&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to try and keep this on topic, have you seen any other games that provide a decision basis like this and how've they accomplished it? Additionally do you think one of these is better than the other (and why)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Freekvd raised some good questions so I'll incorporate these in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What kind of tree complexity are you considering?&lt;/strong&gt;: Generally I'm trying to keep them simple, sharing nodes as much as possible. Nodes would normally converge (I wouldn't really expect more than 2/3 at the same level). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does a node always have two branches?&lt;/strong&gt; Yes, essentially success or failure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Do you have a maximum tree depth in mind?&lt;/strong&gt; – A maximum of 5 items (including a terminus deep), although they tend to be quite narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an actual example of one of medium complexity at present:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHwsJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DHwsJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastEditorUserId="397" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T09:40:01.537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:29:45.520" Title="Decision Trees in board games?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3085" CreationDate="2016-02-15T00:31:34.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best thing you can do is move from playing against AI and play real people.  If access to other players in your area is a problem there are free on-line sites (I play on 2 boardgamearena.com) where you can play live or turn based against real people.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of tactics, you must tie them to a strategy.  The best general strategy that I read somewhere on-line and which has served me pretty well (when I stick to it) is that the first half of the game should be focused on securing a method of funding.  That can be factory, trading, or relying on the doubloons on the roles.  It also can mean loading up on quarries.  Most people on here are pointing to the very first round of roles and saying that the Settler role goes fast...in my group Settler is a backwater and builder goes first in order to get the Small Market for free or one Doubloon.  No one wants Settler for a while because they are already producing corn or getting their indigo production started.&#xA;Having spoken of strategy let me caveat that by saying your strategy usually has to stay fluid early on because depending on how many people are playing or what the person to your right's (especially) strategy is (i.e., they trade consistently) you may have to modify your play.  Two weeks ago I played an on-line game where the winner had only three producing plantations (one of which was coffee) but 4 quarries.  They went directly to building the large buildings and ended the game rapidly by filling all of their building spaces before anyone had a chance to produce and ship for many Victory Points.  I tried the same strategy in our live group and it worked the first game and failed miserably the next game because everyone saw where I was going and countered my strategy...and I failed to adapt to their changes quickly enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you really want to play often and in many different situations and then you start to develop a sense of how to react to the game you are playing.  If you go in with a set strategy and tactics against decent players they will eat you alive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T00:31:34.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4585" CreationDate="2016-02-15T02:04:23.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No one has mentioned the Factory in their answer.  The Factory is an obvious reason to choose Craftsman.  On the surface you think that if you have the Factory it makes sense.  It might also make sense if someone else has a Factory.  You can sometimes Craftsman and exhaust one or two goods so that someone with a Factory is unable to produce any of those goods and therefore doesn't get the financial benefit of that production.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has been mentioned but should be highlighted that Craftsman is good if you have a Warehouse, particularly a large one.  Let the other players fill the ships in the current round of Captaining.  Then, next round when they have one or two goods left you Captain with your full warehouse and take your pick of ships as well as pick up the extra Victory Point for being Captain.  There can also be an advantage if you have a Wharf and or a Harbor.  The Harbor/Wharf combination is especially powerful if you can have enough of a good to put a portion on one regular ship (esp. if blocking an opponents loading it) and then having some left to Wharf it.  That move just earned you an extra Harbor Victory Point on the regular ship and an extra Victory Point on the Wharf shipment.  So if you chose the Captain on that move you got an extra Victory Point for Captaining, for regular shipment and for Wharf.  Three extra Victory Points in one move and it could all come from enough of a single type of good.  Couple that as a follow up to a previous turns Craftsman where you denied an opponent with a Factory production of a good and you have a huge move centered on Craftsman.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main lesson is that every game is different.  Add to that different opponents, different number of players and different strategies and you begin to see that there are no consistently more or less desirable role choices.  Each new game unfurls it's pluses and minuses around each role.  If you aren't worried about losing individual games you can experiment with different strategies emphasizing different roles and start to see possibilities that will bring an 'Ah-ha!' to your mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T02:04:23.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28913" CreationDate="2016-02-15T08:22:19.050" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know any games that use decision trees, at least not visually. The only game I can think of that lets you manipulate rules to reach a certain goal, is &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/fluxx&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;fluxx&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;fluxx&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To keep with the visual decision trees, you could use a single card per node:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TdlPV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/TdlPV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Cut the tree down for size, it&amp;#39;s not making a lot of sense now&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards could be decision nodes and terminal nodes, and you would need a starting node for each tree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Alternatively&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You could use concentric pie charts to visualize the type of directional graph you're describing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTTql.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cTTql.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just start at the center and follow the labels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T08:29:45.520" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T08:29:45.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28893" CreationDate="2016-02-15T13:11:12.840" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. You cannot as it states specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player sends 2 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the number of cards is mandatory if any player has any less then the card cannot be activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other side, if a chained effect dropped you or an opponent to less than 2 cards in hand, then Hand Destruction would resolve without effect as the initial requirement is that you send 2 cards to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it said up to 2 cards, then you would be able to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15268" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T14:48:46.083" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T14:48:46.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28923" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:48:34.753" Score="19" ViewCount="5080" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious as to what sort of reasoning went behind &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kird%20Ape&quot;&gt;Kird Ape&lt;/a&gt; being too strong for Extended play? Granted this was many years ago but I was surprised to see that it was banned in a format that allowed powerful cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necropotence&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-15T17:17:28.823" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T07:26:02.877" Title="Why was Kird Ape banned in very first Extended ban list?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9222" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:50:07.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your specific question &quot;Do I need to buy a warehouse THIS turn, for 1-2 turns down the road?&quot; here are my informal steps for evaluating.&#xA;How many and how many types of goods are you producing?  How many and how many types of goods are being produced by others?  How many Warehouses are left?  What is the opportunity cost to buying the Warehouse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are producing few goods and think you will be able to ship and hold onto what doesn't ship in the next round you can hold off.  You can begin planning for a Warehouse purchase and minimizing the hit to your doubloons (i.e., pick up a Quarry, select Builder, Trade what you fear might not ship).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If everyone (including yourself) is producing only enough different types of goods to fill the available ships you need to look at quantities and decide if you will be able to fit your goods onto one of the ships.  If you are producing a different good than everyone else and can get it on a ship so that you have guaranteed space for a round or two you don't need a Warehouse immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small Warehouses are a scarce resource, in the sense that there are not enough for everyone to get one.  Large Warehouses cost significant Doubloons and in games I have played I don't ever recall them all being built.  Do you think other players will build the Small Warehouses so that you will not be able to?  If so build now.  Also, there is an opportunity cost in terms of denying or not denying another player the opportunity to build a Warehouse and store their goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed (and we've talked about it in my PR group with mild consensus) that it is easier to make a decision to buy a Warehouse earlier in the game than later.  It seems tied to the opportunity cost.  Early in the game choices are limited by what can be afforded so it seems less a sacrifice to buy the Small Warehouse.  Later in the game it seems as if that higher priced building is more desirable because I've been working toward it so putting off building it to build a Small Warehouse is tough.  I tend to try to buy a Small Warehouse early in the game.  Sometimes I never need it, sometimes it saves me a lot of otherwise lost goods.  The upside of the situation where it is built but never needed is that you get the points at the end of the game.  If you build City Hall the Warehouses are violet buildings and will add points that way too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T14:50:07.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28921" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28919" CreationDate="2016-02-15T14:54:13.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mostly, the given reason for the ban was that it was too good of an aggro card. It outclassed every other 1 drop, and likely was better than many 2 drops as well. Of course, Wizard never really knows which cards are completely broken (a la &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necropotence&quot;&gt;Necropotence&lt;/a&gt;), so after time it was unbanned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-19T07:26:02.877" LastActivityDate="2022-07-19T07:26:02.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28919" CreationDate="2016-02-15T15:20:31.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is just speculation and my thoughts about it but I think that at that time a 2/3 for 1 mana was really very strong. I remember myself when they printed &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=79217&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Isamaru, Hound of Konda&lt;/a&gt; and everyone was like, wow a 2/2 for 1 mana, (so strong that it had to be legendary). And even cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220551&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Watchwolf&lt;/a&gt; people really liked, because also at that time you simply didn't get a 3/3 for 2 mana&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T15:20:31.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28919" CreationDate="2016-02-15T15:49:29.100" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that at the time of the banning, WotC saw this card as a problem for the metagame in Extended. It could put an opponent pretty far behind pretty early, and many decks had to tailor early plays just to deal with Kird Ape. As Mark Rosewater &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/banned-run-2003-02-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;notes&lt;/a&gt; in an article from 2003 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We ban and restrict cards because we believe there is something worse than not allowing players to use a particular card, and that is &lt;strong&gt;having a play environment become so degenerate that the game is no longer fun.&lt;/strong&gt; Sometimes individual cards have to be sacrificed for the needs of the larger game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an individual card takes over a format because it seems unbalanced, WotC bans it in order to try and change the metagame. This is constant battle for them in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/formats/modern&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Modern&lt;/a&gt; format, where they're trying to figure out a way to ensure it's a four-turn format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's any consolation, in the same &lt;a href=&quot;https://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/banned-run-2003-02-17&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; by Rosewater he admits the Kird Ape ban may have been a mistake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why did you ban Kird Ape in the original Extended format when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypnotic%20Specter&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Specter&lt;/a&gt; was not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I’ll let you in on a little secret. We’re not infallible. We occasionally, gasp, make mistakes. We correct them when we catch them, but hey nobody’s perfect. Was the above a mistake? To quote my grandfather: “If it looks like a duck, quacks like a duck, and has a giant sign on it that says: ‘I’m a freakin’ duck!’, odds are, it might be a duck.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also skeptical that you are going to find a direct quote online referencing the Kird Ape ban. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/articles?date=2001-12-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;earliest articles on the WotC website&lt;/a&gt; for Magic are from December 2001. I legitimately can't figure out when Kird Ape was actually banned and then unbanned, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Banned_and_restricted_cards/Timeline&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this timeline&lt;/a&gt; shows Hypnotic Specter being banned in October of 1997. Since the above Rosewater quote references the banning of Kird Ape instead of Hypnotic Specter, I can only assume Kird Ape had both its banning and unbanning before then, more than four years before WotC decided to start using the internet to disseminate information about their game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-07-18T15:00:35.340" LastActivityDate="2022-07-18T15:00:35.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="28924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28983" CreationDate="2016-02-15T17:13:14.323" Score="1" ViewCount="3951" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the best way to feed your people, and why do you consider it such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I constantly go back and forth between&#xA;A) placing a person in the Field to move my food marker up&#xA;B) trying to grab up all the Food Civilization Cards  I can, and&#xA;C) placing people in the Hunt space to generate food with a dice roll&#xA;-or-&#xA;Does it make any sense feeding your people by using resources other than Food?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally play a 3 or 4 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15298" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T17:00:03.760" Title="Stone Age Food Strategy" Tags="|stone-age|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7713" CreationDate="2016-02-15T21:35:15.737" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family own and manage a game store, and we have been into MTG and many other card games since their inception. &lt;strong&gt;We like KMCs the best&lt;/strong&gt; all around, though some prefer Dragon Shields' color selection and price.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe Ultra-Pro sleeves have been gradually declining in quality. I have seen too many packs with QC issues (incorrect cuts or gluing, etc). They are the smoothest to shuffle, but show wear &lt;strong&gt;the first time&lt;/strong&gt; they're shuffled, especially non-Pro-Mattes. For a Commander deck I invariably choose Dragon Shields (100ct). For a 60-card deck, it's always KMCs (Only available in 80ct). Most of our customers (especially the more experienced) miss the old days of Ultra-Pro, and end up doing as we do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BCWs are excellent sleeves&lt;/strong&gt; when you can find them. Plainer and less color selection, but very affordable and durable. I like them better than Dragon Shields but not as good as KMCs. They're the best 'inexpensive' sleeves by miles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This all depends on the pricing of your shop, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15310" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T21:35:15.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28927" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:33:08.723" Score="1" ViewCount="2304" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Piledriver&quot;&gt;Goblin Piledriver&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, my opponent casts the Instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Murderous%20Cut&quot;&gt;Murderous Cut&lt;/a&gt; to destroy it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response to &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt;, I cast the Instant &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Collateral%20Damage&quot;&gt;Collateral Damage&lt;/a&gt; intending to sacrifice the Piledriver before it can be destroyed and thus, deal damage to my opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the sacrifice work? i.e. Can I sacrifice Goblin Piledriver &lt;em&gt;out from under&lt;/em&gt; Murderous Cut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13245" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T03:12:13.183" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T03:12:13.183" Title="Can I sacrifice a creature before the creature spell resolves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28926" CreationDate="2016-02-15T22:36:07.687" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can, but not exactly in the way you think. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, Goblin Piledriver has to resolve before it can be targeted with Murderous Cut. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, once the Murderous Cut is cast, it goes on the stack and hasn't resolved yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At that point, both players get priority, and you then could cast Collateral Damage. Now, what's important is that the sacrifice of Collateral Damage is a cost, which is paid as the spell is put on the stack. That means that your opponent can't target it with a spell (say, another Murderous Cut) before it gets sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You both pass priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Collateral Damage does its, well, damage, then Murderous Cut tries to cut your goblin, but it isn't there anymore, so it fizzles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-15T22:36:07.687" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T06:53:32.240" Score="2" ViewCount="883" Body="&lt;p&gt;The setup rules dictate the removal of the Exploration action card, with Round 9 to be skipped.  But they don't list the reasoning behind this decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rulebook, page 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the 2-player game, only 11 Action space cards are used. Remove the “Exploration” card with the “Level 4 expedition” from the game. &lt;em&gt;(Cover the unused Round space 9 with a Dwarf card.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a reason for this action and round to be skipped with these player counts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15316" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T16:01:40.403" Title="In two-player and solo Caverna, why is Round 9 with the Exploration action skipped?" Tags="|caverna|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28932" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28924" CreationDate="2016-02-16T10:58:11.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to feed your people, is to make sure you have &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; enough food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sure you can feed them other resources, but those resources will cost you at least 50% more (in terms of dice eyes). It's a lot easier to just get the food out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Food is a means to an end, it won't score you any points. As the game develops, you can see where your chances of scoring big points are. Use this focus to determine how to get your food. If you get farmer (civilization) cards it makes sense to focus on getting high on the food track. In my experience, this can lead to having lots of excess food at the end of the game, which feels like a wasteful investment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've also won games without focusing on the food track, instead focusing on getting more people and sending them out to hunt. Again, if you overdo this you will run out of food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, there is no undisputed best solution, without considering the cards on the table and the choices of your fellow players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T08:58:58.860" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T08:58:58.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28935" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28936" CreationDate="2016-02-16T11:58:06.813" Score="0" ViewCount="5590" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to build a city you must have a settlement to upgrade, and enough resource for the upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, are there any other requirements like having at least 3 settlements? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15320" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T13:40:09.850" Title="What are the requirements to build a city?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28935" CreationDate="2016-02-16T13:06:50.577" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's only one other requirement: You need to have a spare city in stock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize, all the requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to have the required resources.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to have a settlement on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need to have a spare city in stock.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-16T13:40:09.850" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T13:40:09.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28456" CreationDate="2016-02-16T16:47:35.937" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The back of the character cards have bullets printed on them for this purpose. Take some unused character cards and tuck them under the used ones so players can track their health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15286" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T16:47:35.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3236" CreationDate="2016-02-16T17:01:22.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might consider &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeplayingcards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;makeplayingcards.com&lt;/a&gt;, they offer a variety of printing options as well as fully customizable fronts and backs of cards. You can choose a variety of materials for the cards as well as a number of different sizes. I used them a little while back to make a megaman themed deck of playing cards, but I have no doubt that they could also be used for CCG cards as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13576" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T17:01:22.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28943" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-16T21:39:14.447" Score="4" ViewCount="969" Body="&lt;p&gt;Board games are usually published by one of a variety of different board game publishers - such as Fantasy Flight or Z-Man Games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - what do the publishers do - and what's the difference between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do board game publishers act much the same way to book publishers do? - ie. selectively publishing games from creators they think will be successful in exchange for a commission - or are their games developed in-house?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I am interested in board game publishers responsibility in: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manufacturing components. Do board games publishers manufacture components themselves, or outsource them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Designing games. Do board games publishers design games 'in house' or are they merely publishers for external designers?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acquiring copyright rights, for example for any games based on franchises (eg Game of Thrones, Lord of the Rings), do board game publishers negotiate with the copyright holders themselves, or is that up to the designer? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I appreciate that answers are likely to be different for each board game publisher, so a good answer will give a general overview of what &lt;em&gt;the primary&lt;/em&gt; role of board game publishers do, and give some examples of what some of the larger/more popular board game publishers do in respect to these questions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good answer might include and example of the size of a larger board game publisher, and outline all the roles each of the staff play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T01:03:44.097" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T01:03:44.097" Title="What do board game publishers do? What are the difference between them?" Tags="|game-development|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-02-16T22:48:36.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28081" CreationDate="2016-02-16T23:59:24.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes more sense to keep the convention of scoring for the tracks you place as per other TTR ride games. My beef is that I started with TTR Europe as my base game and there are no five place routes on that board, so it took quite a while to find out how much to score a five place route in the Pensylvania expansion. Indeed, because of the existence of five place routes in TTR Pensylvania we assumed initially that you didn't score routes as you placed them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15329" LastActivityDate="2016-02-16T23:59:24.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28946" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-17T00:40:26.420" Score="7" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I get the feeling that a big part of how well someone does in Ticket to Ride, is the drawing of their initial destination tickets, and the drawing of subsequent destination tickets, and how well they fit within the player's existing route, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any house rules for mitigating this? One suggestion might be that three destination tickets can be placed face up on the table, and players can draw from those, or elect to scrap them before drawing from them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; I'm specifically asking about how luck dependent the game is, and if there are any house rules to reduce the luck factor. I'm not asking for strategies used to deal with the standard rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T21:07:07.167" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T17:53:12.910" Title="How can I mitigate the luck factor of drawing destination tickets in Ticket To Ride?" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|luck|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14018" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:02:41.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three main ways to get food in Agricola. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Bake Bread/Sow Fields&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the strategy I've found the most effective. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In stage one you should plow, take grain and sow for at least one field. If you can sow two that would be a big bonus (remember you can save a turn if you sow both grains in the same action). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming you only plowed one field in stage one, in stage two you now want to plow another field, and sow it with the harvested grain. You'll now be producing at least two grain per stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab either the stone, or the clay oven. The stone oven is probably better, but it doesn't really matter, and it's more dependent on what resources you have/can get. &lt;strong&gt;Remember you can bake bread when you first buy the oven&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From now on, when ever you sow one of your empty fields, you can also bake bread which will probably be enough to feed for your family for that stage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Eat animals&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grab the fireplace or the cooking hearth. Build pastures, and grab the animals before the other players do, (though of course, if you can let them build up before the other players grab them, do so). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Remember you can cook the animals even if you don't have space in your pastures, so long as you have a fireplace/cooking hearth&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This strategy I've notice tends to be favoured by new players, but I don't think it's particularly good. The animals don't grow as quickly as grain, and they are only produced build up on one action space per animal. In games with more players this might be a better action when you can take a boar/cow from supply. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. Collect food from fishing/travelling player/store house&lt;/strong&gt;. This strategy shouldn't be underestimated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the family friendly version the 'starting player' action has storehouse (+1 food/turn), and traveling player at more players (+1 food turn). If these are at 4+ food, that's just as good as baking bread, without having to have taken all the plowing/sowing/build improvement actions in between. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you take the fishing at the end of stage one for four food, that tides you over with enough food for harvest two. During stage two while everyone else is running around  buying cooking hearths/ovens etc, and you can grab the wood or whatever. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bonus:&lt;/strong&gt; Taking the joinery/pottery/basketmakers workshop can be a helpful bonus to your food, though not a strategy in itself. At two food per harvest, if you have a big stash of one of those resources lying around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T01:11:02.423" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T01:11:02.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25035" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:14:15.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Note also that you're allowed to trade in the fireplace for the cooking hearth, and not have to pay any resources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two reasons you might want both a fireplace and a cooking hearth, or two fireplaces etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt; To prevent others from getting them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt; For points. They're worth one point each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T23:15:21.877" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T23:15:21.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28949" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28952" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:15:39.740" Score="4" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I build both the clay oven and the stone oven, and I play a bake bread action, am I allowed to cook two grain in my clay oven, and one clay in my stone oven, for a total of thirteen food? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T02:09:59.597" Title="Are you allowed to bake bread in two different ovens?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28962" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:36:27.337" Score="3" ViewCount="2490" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm reasonably experienced playing Agricola - but the family friendly version only, because the people I've played with find the game complicated enough as it is. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand how the minor improvements and occupations are supposed to be used; at the start of the game each player will have seven occupations and seven minor improvements, which they'll play through out the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is - how do I decide which deck (E, I, K) to use, and how do I select nPlayers * 7 occupations and minor improvements from it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I've seen, the purpose of the different decks is to provide differing levels of complexity to game, the E deck being more suitable for beginners and the K deck for very experienced players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also see there are various ways to distribute the initial seven cards, a draft commonly being used, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3585/house-rule-for-minor-improvement-occupation-distribution&quot;&gt;as suggested in this question.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say I am playing with a draft, with three players. Do I just randomly select 21 minor improvements from the E deck? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone please provide a step by step guide to setting up the game, from deciding which deck to use, to selecting the cards for draft/mulligan and then drafting them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:30:07.477" Title="How are Minor Improvement and Occupation cards meant to be selected for play?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28951" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4707" CreationDate="2016-02-17T01:54:07.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As other answers have pointed it out, it really depends on what you're doing with the game, and what others are doing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example - building brown and grey cards is a great strategy if your neighbors aren't, because then they'll buy them from you. If they are... then maybe you should consider just buying theirs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reds are an easy eighteen points... &lt;em&gt;so long as your neighbors don't build them&lt;/em&gt;. If they are, then you might want to consider spending your turns building something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blues, like any color, will rarely win the game in and of themselves, but can be a huge hand in doing it - think 20-30 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that the 2-3 points probably aren't a game winning amount (though remember that you could have got 10 points from blues, just from Age I ) - their value is definitely far more in the free upgrades. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certainly what I recommend is: &lt;em&gt;in most cases, if you're going to build Age I blues, build them with the intention of building the Age II and Age III upgrades&lt;/em&gt; because that's where their real value is. If you're not planning on building the upgrades, I'd suggest that build browns/greys or yellows would be better instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest that your strategy is bad if trashing blues for cash is an optimal move. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T02:02:35.020" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T02:02:35.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28949" CreationDate="2016-02-17T02:09:59.597" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use as many ovens as you want each time you take the bake bread action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately the rulebook itself is not completely clear on this point. But multiple answers &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/369035/bakin-bread-how-much&quot;&gt;on bgg&lt;/a&gt; agree.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T02:09:59.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28946" CreationDate="2016-02-17T09:50:11.863" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with your suggested solution is that it increases the impact of good luck for everyone. The result is that everyone's potential score will be that much higher, so the winner will end up being the person who &lt;em&gt;doesn't&lt;/em&gt; get screwed out of routes by other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, getting lucky with grouped routes &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; have an impact on the game, and no amount of cleverly playing around your mixed hand will beat someone who gets a cluster of many tickets in an area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're not doing so already, I would suggest trying Ticket to Ride: Europe. While the luck of the ticket draw is still a factor, it's lessened in a few ways:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your starting tickets are picked from at least 2 of 4 tickets, where 1 of those tickets is a long route that's only available in the starting hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stations are available, so if you do get screwed on a route you can still complete it using other people's routes and build your other tickets.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to the above point, if you're drawing new routes and nothing matches your game plan, you can pick a route that's mostly completed by your opponents and spend your stations to attach their routes to your network, saving your trains.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you absolutely want to house rule any of the games, you could do some form of ticket drafting in which, as a group at the start of the game, you build a starting hand publicl. For example everyone gets 4 cards, picks one face up and passes the hand until they have 3 or 4 cards. Then you pick out of those routes normally. If you want to go full-out on this you could then draft the rest of the deck and build individual decks, allowing the players to balance how well the routes go together and giving a vague idea of what routes each player might be capable of without having perfect knowledge of what they're doing. You could just do the deck draft and then have each player draw their initial routes from their drafted deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T09:50:11.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28956" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28957" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:07:11.500" Score="3" ViewCount="1229" Body="&lt;p&gt;To reiterate on previous questions (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3326/timing-rules-in-seven-wonders&quot;&gt;1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4074/in-seven-wonders-can-i-buy-resources-that-were-built-by-my-neighbors-this-turn&quot;&gt;2&lt;/a&gt;), the general timing goes like so:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players decide which card to play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players decide how to play that card (build, discard, wonder).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players decide how to pay building costs (who to buy from), and then announce/reveal their play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players complete the action and resolve building effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Cities expansion, there are building effects that cause debt, forcing other players to pay money or take negative VP tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's assume that an opponent will play a debt 2 building this turn, and I start the turn with no money. Also assume that I know this will happen (from passing them the card and them playing a black card strategy). What happens in the following situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My neighbour pays me 2 coins to build the debt building. From the turn timing, it seems clear that I can pay the debt, since building costs are paid before their effects (I've included this for completeness).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I build a yellow card that gives me enough coins to pay the debt. Since the money gain and the debt happen at the same time, can I pay with the income?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I discard a card to get enough coins to pay the debt. Does money from discarding come in in step 4 (above), or earlier (step 2 or 3)? If it's earlier, it seems clear I should be able to pay, but if it's 4 (or after) then it's similar to the second case above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T11:13:24.600" Title="What is the timing of building and paying debt?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28956" CreationDate="2016-02-17T10:23:35.810" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions&quot;&gt;cities rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, p. 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: Monetary losses are always resolved at the end of a turn, after players have played their cards, possibly having paid for trade and/or obtained money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, for all your examples, you do have enough money to pay the debt. Monetary losses is the last effect to resolve itself, even following the &quot;take a card from the discard pile&quot; ability of Halikarnassós.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T10:23:35.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28956" CreationDate="2016-02-17T11:07:44.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The question has ben answered that all monetary losses happen at the end of a stage but the following should be clarified.  You have 'decide what card to play' and 'decide who to but resources from' as a separate action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have decided who to but resources from, if needed, before revealing your card.  The payment for your action is done as soon as your card is revealed.  there isn't the chance to look at what other people have done first. A player may not spend money received that turn to buy resources themselves. They may however use that money to pay off debt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T11:07:44.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28732" CreationDate="2016-02-17T12:15:23.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ICF Laws of Carrom&lt;/a&gt;. Bracketed numbers in italics refer to specific rules that cover the questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the Queen has been covered:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. What happens if I pocket my last C/m and the Striker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 1/3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m and the Striker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; as normal (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;win&lt;/strong&gt; by 1/3*. For an improper stroke, you &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 1/3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5. What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Striker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;110/112&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 1/3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the shot covers the Queen:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6. What happens if I pocket my last C/m and the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;97&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;win&lt;/strong&gt; as normal, having covered the Queen. For an improper stroke, you &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7. What happens if I pocket my last C/m, the Queen and the Striker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Unsure!&lt;/em&gt; You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8. What happens if I pocket my opponents' last C/m and the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;103&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; as normal, and the Queen is considered covered by your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9. What happens if I pocket my opponents' last C/m, the Queen and the Striker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; as normal (+1**), and the Queen is considered covered by your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10. What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;102&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;win&lt;/strong&gt; by 1/3*. For an improper stroke, you &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;11. What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m, the Queen and the Striker?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;109&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;If the Queen is left on the board:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;12. What happens if I pocket my last C/m, leaving the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;107&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;13. What happens if I pocket my last C/m and the Striker, leaving the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;108&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;14. What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m, leaving the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;106&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; as normal, and the Queen is considered covered by your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;15. What happens if I pocket my opponent's last C/m and the Striker, leaving the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;111&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; as normal (+1**), and the Queen is considered covered by your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;16. What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m, leaving the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;em&gt;105&lt;/em&gt;) You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;17. What happens if I pocket both players' last C/m and the Striker, leaving the Queen?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; by 3* (+1**).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* This is the value of the Queen: if the winning player did not cover the Queen, or is at 22+ points, they get 1 point. Otherwise they get the 3 points for covering the Queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** The opponent may claim 1 additional point as Due (you pocketed the Striker) and/or 1 additional point as Penalty (you made an improper stroke).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-02-17T14:25:10.340" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T14:25:10.340" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28961" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27569" CreationDate="2016-02-17T13:28:20.030" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling you have quoted, is essentially a patch for incompatible effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the back of every Unique Asset, after resolving the other effects, you'll find instructions to either flip it or to discard it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it's a discard then there are no instructions to flip it (like &quot;flip this card then discard it&quot;) as this would be redundant and pointless in most situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However when Finn's ability prevents this kind of discard, you would be left with a Unique Asset that is useless. All the effects on the backside were triggered when the card was flipped - without the instruction to flip it back you will not be able to use the card again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid such weird game state, the faq(/patch) tells you to shuffle the card back into the Unique Asset deck, even though the discard was prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T13:28:20.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28950" CreationDate="2016-02-17T16:06:16.053" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The decks you use are completely at the discretion of the players.  I like to use all the decks I own.  Some people like to use certain decks.  Some people like to ensure a particular distribution of cards from each deck, but I find that tedious.  Here's how I set things up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set up the game board normally.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle all Minor Improvements together from all decks.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove all Occupations that carry a number greater than the number of players in the game (this number appears in a colored square and is either 1+, 3+ or 4+).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffle all remaining Occupations together from all decks.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Randomly deal out 7 (or more) Occupations to each player.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Randomly deal out 7 (or more) Minor Improvements to each player.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The next two steps are the drafting steps, which you can skip if you want to.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player chooses on Occupation and one Minor Improvement to keep, then passes the rest of their dealt cards to the person on their left/right.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Repeat the previous step until all cards have been chosen.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you chose to deal more than 7 Occs/Minors, each player discards until they have 7 each.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2415" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T00:30:07.477" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:30:07.477" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28626" CreationDate="2016-02-17T18:31:31.673" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://5bfb3b05e6ffc43467f6-22ec8fbae3c088572e1ee8af6db3a2ff.r59.cf2.rackcdn.com/ESW2_RULEBOOK_Optimized.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, Player A should receive the sole LWS token.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(For official ruling, see below the break.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule can be found on page 17 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the dust settles and there is but one Wizard alive, the game ends and that Wizard earns a Last Wizard Standing token. &lt;strong&gt;In the unlikely event that a Wizard kills himself, leaving no Wizards alive, that Wizard still earns the token.&lt;/strong&gt; Going out in a blaze of glory is never frowned upon in Epic Spell War!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you've already noted, in order for a Reaction to happen, the player needs to have died according to the rules. This is confirmed by Matt Hyra from Cryptozoic on Board Game Geek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Gregg Prendergast:&lt;/em&gt; Doers the &amp;quot;reaction&amp;quot; effect only take place at the time your character is killed, or does it take effect any time you are attacked (even if you don't die as a result of the attack)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Matt Hyra:&lt;/em&gt; Only applies if you are killed. If you are not killed, any Reactions in your spell remain face down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the order of events would look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A kills Player B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A is the last remaining Wizard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B has a Reaction that kills Player A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steps 4 &amp;amp; 5 don't really matter because Player A receives the LWS token even though they are dead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I asked this out on Board Game Geek to get an official answer. From Matt Hyra, Cryptozoic R&amp;amp;D, in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1527533/reactions-and-last-wizard-standing&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;response to my question&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player had to die to trigger the Reaction, so unless the Reaction tells you you are resurrected, the Wizard who killed you gains the LWS token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T19:54:57.897" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28964" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="39675" CreationDate="2016-02-17T20:47:38.870" Score="7" ViewCount="2419" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/11810/6692&quot;&gt;When should I activate Man Lands and Keyrunes in order to attack with them?&lt;/a&gt;, although anyone answering this question would need to understand at least that much in order to understand this one. That question only explains when a player would need to activate. It doesn't cover shortcuts or illegal actions, which is what my question is primarily about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does activating an ability when you have already decided to move to the declare attackers step imply that you are declaring zero attackers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Anthony&lt;/strong&gt;: Combat?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Noah&lt;/strong&gt;: Sure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Anthony&lt;/strong&gt;: Animate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Noah&lt;/strong&gt;: Sure.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Anthony&lt;/strong&gt;: Declare attackers?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;Noah&lt;/strong&gt;: Hang on. You're already in the declare attackers phase, right? I thought you animated Mutavault after you decided to declare no attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony offers the shortcut &quot;Combat?&quot;. According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;, that means he is offering to pass priority until Noah has priority in the Beginning of Combat step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A statement such as &quot;I'm ready for combat&quot; or &quot;Declare attackers?&quot; offers to keep passing priority&#xA;  until an opponent has priority in the beginning of combat step. Opponents are assumed to be acting&#xA;  then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noah responds with &quot;Sure.&quot; I believe this means that Noah is passing priority back to Anthony (don't get too hung up on this - it isn't the focus of the question). That means the game moves to the Declare Attackers step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony activates Mutavault, which is an action that could, if it is legal, only be taken after declaring attackers. Now the game state is potentially ambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.1. First, the active player declares attackers. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  508.3. Third, the active player gets priority&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume the tournament level is Competitive REL, and that if a judge is needed, one will be called. What is the resulting game state? I believe the resulting game state would be one of the following, but I am not sure which is correct (if either):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is in the Declare Attackers phase, and Anthony does not have the opportunity to declare attackers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activating Mutavault was an illegal action because Anthony didn't have priority. That action is reversed. The game is in the Declare Attackers phase, and Anthony still has the opportunity to declare attackers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2018-01-02T14:29:48.410" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T14:42:35.967" Title="If a player goes to &quot;combat&quot;, and then activates an ability, what is the game state?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="25" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29081" CreationDate="2016-02-17T21:08:27.300" Score="10" ViewCount="6932" Body="&lt;p&gt;[Spoilers ahead for scenario 49]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Six players are playing &lt;em&gt;Betrayal&lt;/em&gt; and the haunting has begun. It is scenario 49, &quot;You Wear It Well&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One way the traitor can win is when the &quot;Astral Spirit inhabits the soulless body of a hero&quot;. This occurs when the spirit makes six successful sanity rolls on a hero and places that many Sanity Roll tokens next to his or her body.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The good guys begin a haunting by taking six knowledge tokens and six sanity tokens and setting them aside. A hero can acquire one of these tokens by making a successful attack of that type against the spirit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game only comes with six sanity tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spirit needs six tokens to win by possession, but as soon as the heroes make one successful sanity attack, there are fewer than six remaining in the &quot;set aside&quot; pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of the following, if any, is the correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once a hero gets a single sanity token, the spirit cannot ever win via possession. If he wants to win this way, he must make the possession before the heroes land a single attack. (this seems unlikely because he would need to fend off five attacks per round for a minimum of six rounds, with a printed sanity stat of 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once a hero gets a sanity token, the spirit can return it to the &quot;set aside&quot; pool by killing that player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the spirit needs to acquire a sanity token and there are none left in the &quot;set aside&quot; pool, then he can take one from any hero of his choice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the spirit needs to acquire a sanity token and there are none left in the &quot;set aside&quot; pool, then he can take one from the hero whose body he is attempting to possess, assuming they have one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your game box is defective and was supposed to come with 12 sanity tokens. Make six more out of scraps of paper or similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You should treat the sanity token pool as if it were infinite. If it runs out of actual tokens, make new ones with scraps of paper or similar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T04:25:04.987" Title="How can the traitor win scenario 49 in this way?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28946" CreationDate="2016-02-17T21:31:57.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you want people to have more control over their initial tickets, just give them move to choose from. Instead of 'Draw 4, keep 2-4', you could allow people to 'Draw 6, keep 2-4'. This doesn't impact any part of the game, other than the initial route drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is of course a very simple solution that doesn't involve house rules: ditch your longest route. Although it feels natural to go for the longest route, you don't have to. Just make sure you get the most points, by any means necessary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2016-02-17T21:31:57.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28964" CreationDate="2016-02-17T21:51:07.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Root Cause&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The root cause of the problem is the confusion between the short cut offered by Anthony and the shortcut accepted by Noah.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anthony's intention is to end his 1st Main Phase and transition into the Beginning of Combat. Noah's interpretation is that Anthony wants to pass priority until the end of the Beginning of Combat Phase and transition towards Declare Attackers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_17nov17_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 2017&lt;/a&gt; change to the Magic Tournament Rules, this is the now &lt;a href=&quot;https://blogs.magicjudges.org/telliott/2017/04/27/how-to-think-about-the-new-combat-shortcut/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;expected&lt;/a&gt; shortcut when moving from the first main phase into the Combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the active player passes priority with an empty stack during their first main phase, the non-active&#xA;  player is assumed to be acting in beginning of combat unless they are affecting whether a beginning&#xA;  of combat ability triggers. However, if the non-active player takes no action, the active player has&#xA;  priority at the beginning of combat. Beginning of combat triggered abilities (even ones that target)&#xA;  may be announced after any non-active player action has resolved&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Noah says Sure, Anthony assumes his short cut has been accepted, and takes allowed actions during the Beginning of Combat phase, making Mutavult a creature. Presumably, this is prepatory to declare Mutavult as an attacker during Declare Attackers. Noah states his complaint, possibly citing the implication provided by his short cut per the Tournament Rules. Anthony clarifies what his intentions were by offering his shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Judgment&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Judge is called, because the disagreement over the current phase can't be resolved by the players, the Judge should tell Noah that Anthony's interpretation is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Commentary&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is why I am rather pedantic about explicitly declaring the phases I am in during my turn, in order to avoid the associated confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T14:42:35.967" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T14:42:35.967" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28964" CreationDate="2016-02-18T00:42:35.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anthony is confused by what the shortcut does. A judge will rewind the game to the point of confusion: Anthony attempting to activate Mutavualt when he is meant to be declaring attackers. The land he used to activate Mutavualt will be untapped and he can proceed with declaring attackers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is not Out-Of-Order-Sequencing because he has gained substantial information about what his opponent intends to do during the Beginning of Combat Step (nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The judge should mention that the way to do what Anthony wanted to do was instead of saying &quot;Combat?&quot; was to say &quot;Activate my Mutavualt at the Beginning of Combat?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside: The minor advantage that Anthony is trying to gain: Passing priority in his mainphase without letting his opponent know that he's going to attack with Mutavualt; is such a small advantage that it really isn't worth attempting. The chances of messing it up and having it back fire is much more significant than the strategic advantage attempting to be gained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T00:42:35.930" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28969" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:34:08.817" Score="4" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the Play All card require the removal of any Hand Limit rule cards currently in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15339" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T21:29:36.270" Title="Fluxx Play All Card and Hand Limit Cards" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28969" CreationDate="2016-02-18T02:40:52.013" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Play All replaces the Play One, or any associated play rule cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the many New Rule cards in Fluxx, there are several archetypes, including: Draw, Play, and Hand Size. Each are categorically separate from the others, which is why each directs you to discard any previous associated rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T03:01:26.480" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T03:01:26.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T04:27:11.107" Score="0" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;I basically understand the principle of doubling: using the doubling cube to double the stakes of the current game. I'm not sure when the dice rolled can be double for 4 moves. Is that only when the doubling cube is used? Or can it be done any time within a game? &#xA;Many thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15341" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T13:32:19.800" Title="In Backgammon, when can the dice be doubled?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28972" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-18T04:29:12.617" Score="9" ViewCount="1615" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what game this is? It seems to be a 12x12 grid with the outside rows used to mark a winner of a row. It appears that each box can be slid to reveal a color. Picture is from the late 70's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fcoxG.png&quot; alt=&quot;game&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15340" LastActivityDate="2021-10-16T18:01:06.370" Title="Help identifying old board game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-02-18T07:11:56.980" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can me and my family had the same problem it comes in the uno manual&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15343" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T07:11:56.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28975" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28988" CreationDate="2016-02-18T08:50:03.413" Score="2" ViewCount="825" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where can I obtain additional story adventures for the various D&amp;amp;D adventure game systems?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all the manuals it states to check the wizards of the coast site for them, but there are none on the site and even a wizard's support rep confirmed that there are none hosted on the site. Rather frustrating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know where I can get some? I'm looking to expand upon the fun for my gaming group but have not found the time to sit down and create my own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15344" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:23:24.933" Title="D&amp;D Adventure game system, additional adventures" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28977" CreationDate="2016-02-18T08:54:54.863" Score="6" ViewCount="2584" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say someone deliberately casts a sorcery card as a face-down morph creature hoping to win the game with it (not knowing that at some point in time it will always be revealed). What is the penalty for it at the different Rules Enforcement Levels (REL)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T13:57:00.907" Title="What is the penalty for lying about a face-down card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28976" CreationDate="2016-02-18T09:22:44.277" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cheating is not tolerated at any REL and must always result in disqualification.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The current Rules Enforcement Levels (REL) are &lt;em&gt;Regular&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;Competitive&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Professional&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; state about cheating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5.1 Cheating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cheating will not be tolerated. The Head Judge reviews all cheating allegations, and if he or she believes that a player has cheated, he or she will issue the appropriate penalty based on the Infraction Procedure Guide or Judging at Regular REL document. All disqualifications are subject to DCI review and further penalties may be assessed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular REL&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Serious Problems&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain actions will not be tolerated under any circumstances. Every effort should be made to educate players before and during events; however, ignorance is not an acceptable defence of these actions. Any player engaging in the following must be removed from your event and, at the Organizer's discretion, removed from the venue entirely:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Aggressive, violent or abusive behavior (physical or verbal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Intentionally and knowingly breaking or letting an opponent break game or tournament rules, or lying.&lt;/strong&gt; (“Bluffing” about cards opponents can't normally see is permitted).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Determining match outcomes by incentives, coercion, or outside-the-game methods, or gambling on any part of a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Theft (including things like replacing a card in a draft with one from a player’s binder).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Removing players in this way is called a Disqualification, and we must always try to educate our players on why these actions are unacceptable. Also let the player know that while your decision is final, the Judge Program would still like to hear his or her side of the story. You can contact your local Regional Coordinator, high level Judge, or WPN Representative to guide you through the process of a Disqualification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; is used for penalties at Competitive and Professional REL and states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4.8. Unsporting Conduct — Cheating&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Definition&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A person breaks a rule defined by the tournament documents, lies to a tournament official, or notices an offense committed in his or her (or a teammate's) match and does not call attention to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the offense must meet the following criteria for it to be considered Cheating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The player must be attempting to gain advantage from his or her action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The player must be aware that he or she is doing something illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all criteria are not met, the offense is not Cheating and should be handled by a different infraction. Cheating will often appear on the surface as a Game Play Error or Tournament Error, and must be investigated by the judge to make a determination of intent and awareness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Penalty:&lt;/strong&gt; Disqualification&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T13:57:00.907" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28971" CreationDate="2016-02-18T13:32:19.800" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are confusing two uses of the word &lt;em&gt;double&lt;/em&gt;.  If you roll doubles (e.g both dice show 3) you move not two but four counters three spaces ('Movement, 3' &lt;a href=&quot;http://usbgf.org/learn-backgammon/rules-of-backgammon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use the doubling die to increase the stakes at certain times; this has no effect on the game unless your opponent chooses to resign the game rather than play for (and lose) the higher stakes( '&lt;a href=&quot;http://usbgf.org/learn-backgammon/rules-of-backgammon/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Doubling'&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T13:32:19.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28946" CreationDate="2016-02-18T13:35:41.227" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Find a new game.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking of tickets in &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/em&gt; is supposed to be a high risk/high reward action that has the potential to lose you a significant amount of points. Once you try to mitigate an aspect of a game, you're changing how the game plays in ways that weren't intended by the designer. At this point, it's better to find a new game that more closely aligns with your board gaming preferences. There are over 82,000 games in the Board Game Geek database, and one of them is sure to have the aspects of &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/em&gt; that you enjoy while eliminating the randomness of drawing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My suggestion would be &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/43015/hansa-teutonica&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hansa Teutonica&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;. This is also a strategy game that focuses on taking routes, but instead of taking tickets for points, you are taking actions over the course of the game. One game session should take you about the same amount of time as &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;em&gt;Hansa Teutonica&lt;/em&gt; also has the benefit of multiple paths to victory, so it will have a longer shelf life than &lt;em&gt;Ticket to Ride&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T19:06:45.137" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T19:06:45.137" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11662" CreationDate="2016-02-18T14:54:21.720" Score="-7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a person said &quot;Uno&quot; before putting the card down, they need to withdraw three cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15350" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-02-18T18:36:05.730" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:36:05.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14979" CreationDate="2016-02-18T14:55:48.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you heard about &quot;The Big Sellout&quot;? It's a 4 player format from the original 90s version of Netrunner, someone has updated it to the current Android: Netrunner frame. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each team is one runner (called an agent in this format), and one corp working together. The agent for each team is hosted as a remote server trying to steal agendas from the opposing team. As they're a remote server, the corp can use ice to protect them, thus the opposing agent can run on their remote to destroy programs, etc. Take a look here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Netrunner/comments/299xjn/the_big_sellout_a_multiplayer_variant_for_90snr/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Android: Netrunner version&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.darkpact.de/netrunner/variants/theBigSellOut.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Original 90s version&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be a good way of getting the newer players involved in the game.&#xA;Have one experienced player paired with a newer player, they can discuss plays and hopefully wont feel too lost. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7611" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T14:55:48.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33210" CreationDate="2016-02-18T16:10:28.380" Score="5" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;Context : while playing against a complete stranger that hide its rank/level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I feel like it would be possible to guess the opponent's strength by analyzing its responses to tesujis, probes, etc. during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there some patterns (or moves or errors) that indicates that a player has or has not reach a certain plateau ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it's the case, is there any on-line resource on the subject ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T05:52:12.147" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T05:52:12.147" Title="In go, is it possible to guess the opponent's strength from their play?" Tags="|go|rank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28924" CreationDate="2016-02-18T17:00:03.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is in fact a strong strategy to simply never feed your people. This is because unlike some other games, the penalty for not feeding is exactly the same whether you are just 1 food short, or if you feed no people at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take the mating hut every chance you get, then you will have 10 workers, and without ever sending them to hunt for food or go to the field hut, you will be getting way more resources (and blocking more resource spots) than other players. With this, you can get more huts and more boats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be receiving -10 points per turn, but you will more than make that up with your extra resources, boats, and huts. Also, you prioritize boats that give bonus for people and huts, as you should have more of those than anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important parts of this strategy are to get to 10 workers as fast as you can, and to keep the game going as long as you can. The turns until you get 10 workers will be really bad, and you'll have negative points for a while. Because of this, a shorter game is bad for you. So you want to block huts from piles that are running low, and not buy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A note on tools: Once you have 10 workers, it is often worth it to take the tool hut when it is available. This is not a necessary part of the strategy, but it can increase bonus points from boats, while also blocking other players and giving you even more resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T17:00:03.760" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28982" CreationDate="2016-02-18T18:16:41.970" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably the best way to gauge a player's strength (aside from playing against them of course) is to present them with &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Tsumego&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tsumego&lt;/a&gt; of varying difficulties. From Sensei's Library:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tsumego, a Japanese go term adopted into English, are problems mainly about life and death, but also about ko, capturing races, cutting, connecting, etc. As a rule they are local problems, but a few involve the whole board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many published collections of tsumego, or life-and-death problems, many in Asian languages but increasingly many in Western languages. Many collections are available on the internet. SL also has a growing collection of go problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most professional players and top amateur players agree that solving tsumego is the best way to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensei's Library has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?ProblemsAndExercises&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;plethora of tsumego&lt;/a&gt; from a variety of sources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I've also used &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goproblems.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;GoProblems.com&lt;/a&gt; a lot to improve my own skills. I like that they try to associate individual tsumego with what rank &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; be able to solve them. They also have an incredible number to choose from. As of this posting they claim to have 11,196 problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14670" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T18:16:41.970" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28985" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28987" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:08:06.970" Score="6" ViewCount="765" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing Agricola the other day and an odd situation came up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had three rooms with three family members occupying them.  In one round I was able to play these actions in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Family Growth (even without room)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build an additional room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Family Growth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now ordinarily when a new room is built, a doubled-up family member would immediately occupy it.  But my reasoning was that my new family member hadn't actually come home yet (as that happens at the end of the round), so the new room I'd just built wasn't yet occupied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of the people I was playing the game with had a problem with this (in the end, I didn't win anyway)...but was I right, or wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm aware of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/28720/in-agricola-do-family-members-occupy-as-many-rooms-as-possible&quot;&gt;this existing question&lt;/a&gt;, but I'm asking specifically about whether it makes a difference when these things all happen in the same turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10112" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:35:22.367" Title="When does my new family member occupy a new room?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:17:55.210" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Even though family members come home at the end of a round, you still cannot take the &quot;Family Growth&quot; action if you don't have more rooms than family members.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty explicit on page 9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/agricola_eng.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, under &quot;Family Growth even without a room&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: If a player who uses this card later extends her home, she may not use the other Family Growth card again until she has more rooms than Family members: the new rooms must first be used for Family members that did not previously have their own rooms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though the new family member doesn't end up in your house until the &quot;Return home phase,&quot; you still don't have more rooms than family members, so you can't take the &quot;Family Growth&quot; action. In an ideal world, you would want to do these actions in the following order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build and additional room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Family growth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Family growth even without a room&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T20:35:22.367" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T20:35:22.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28985" CreationDate="2016-02-18T20:18:27.383" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/en-agricola-rules-2014.pdf&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (pg 9):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;After Family Growth, also 1 Minor Improvement (Stage 2)&lt;/strong&gt;: A player may only use this Family growth space if he has more empty&#xA;  rooms than Family members. It is irrelevant how the family has grown&#xA;  before and whether the Family members are on the game board or in the&#xA;  farmyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you had four family members and four rooms, you couldn't have done your second Family Growth action, even though the new family member had not returned home yet to &quot;claim the room&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T20:18:27.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28975" CreationDate="2016-02-18T21:23:24.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/59113/item/1424794#item1424794&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This BGG geeklist&lt;/a&gt; seems to have links to a bunch of user generated content.  It also has links to the official WoTC adventures, but they seem to be permanently removed at this point, so the only way to get them would be from someone that already has the PDFs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T21:23:24.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28946" CreationDate="2016-02-18T22:51:35.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our house rule is to take all of the tickets that are 17 or higher, shuffle them, and deal one to each player, and deal the other tickets from the (shuffled) rest of the deck. Then shuffle all remaining tickets to form the ticket pile. That way (similar to TTR:Europe) all players have a long route to choose from at the start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15353" LastActivityDate="2016-02-18T22:51:35.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28991" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T01:00:40.867" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Fury of Dracula&lt;/em&gt; is a secret movement game where vampire hunters cooperate to find Dracula and defeat him before he is able to take over Europe. The English first edition was released in 1987 by Games Workshop Ltd. Fantasy Flight Games released a second edition in 2005 and a third edition in 2015.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T08:23:45.720" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T08:23:45.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28992" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T01:00:40.867" Score="0" Body="A secret movement game where vampire hunters cooperate to find Dracula and defeat him before he is able to take over Europe." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T08:23:15.423" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T08:23:15.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28993" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-19T01:05:22.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Diamonsters&lt;/em&gt; is a card game involving monsters who eat diamonds. Players attempt to win tricks and get three monsters of equal value or five diamonds. It was first published in English in 2015 by IDW Games and Pandasaurus Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gameplay feels a lot like Rock-Paper-Scissors. Each player starts with 5 different monster cards, numbers 1 through 5. One card is placed open on the table. The players then simultaneously play a card each round, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;higher numbers beat lower numbers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;identical numbers cancel each other out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 always beats 5&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The winner takes their own card and the open card and place both in front of them, after which a new hand is played. Collecting the right combination of cards means you get a point (a diamond) and the first to get 3 diamonds wins the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T12:54:44.057" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T12:54:44.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28994" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-19T01:05:22.000" Score="0" Body="A card game involving monsters who eat diamonds. Players attempt to win tricks and get three monsters of equal value or five diamonds." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T12:54:53.663" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T12:54:53.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="28997" CreationDate="2016-02-19T02:04:15.200" Score="1" ViewCount="2913" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing with the water carrier do the player give water from his own cantina?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2356" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:05:00.703" Title="Forbidden desert - how to play with the water carrier" Tags="|forbidden-desert|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28995" CreationDate="2016-02-19T03:05:00.703" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, any share of water drops one player's canteen by one, to raise someone else's canteen by one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Water Carrier's special abilities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can share water with players in adjacent spaces, doesn't need to be in same space&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can carry just a bit more (max is 5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;can draw water from already exposed wells, for one action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the rules does being water carrier change how sharing water works, just makes it easier for that player to do so.  Whenever you share water, it's a trade, not free water.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10399" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T03:05:00.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29002" CreationDate="2016-02-19T18:59:53.680" Score="4" ViewCount="116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in whether anyone knows of bridge movements for individual events in which the players are split (by experience) into &quot;pro&quot;s and &quot;am&quot;s. Thus in each partnership there is a pro player and an am player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of collections of individual movements, but none of them seems to enforce this split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5230" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T23:52:46.403" Title="Bridge game individual movement split between &quot;Pro&quot;s and &quot;Am&quot;s" Tags="|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="28999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1617" CreationDate="2016-02-19T19:00:44.597" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's accept the dealer should be last to act post flop.  Otherwise the button would be the non-button.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two blinds - sb and bb.  The button has to be one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sb is 1/2 the bb and are forced bets to start the action and that is the order of the action. It would just make no sense to have the bb before the sb. That would violate betting rules and mess up the game in a lot of ways.  The sb is a 1/2 bet and the bb is raise to the standard bet.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preflop let's say the bb acted first and it was folded to the bb.  The bb could just raise 1 bb and give the sb 4:1 pot odds on a steal.  Acting first would give the bb too much power.  It balance of power between the blinds and also consistent with the rules of betting in general.  If you took this to heads up and bb bet first a small raise would give the sb terrible odds and the sb would be forced to play extremely tight - it would be a messed up boring game that would take forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So now it comes down to who is the sb?  Preflop bb must be last to act for reasons given above.  As far as the button is concerned a 1/2 bet (sb) is less committed (forced) which is good but giving up last to act preflop is bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So down to why give the button the sb?  It is good for the game.  You want action and it creates (fair) action.  The button does not want to fold preflop because the button has position post flop.  By folding the button is giving up position.  If the sb was not the button you would have a lot more folds to the initial bet preflop - why invest more money in a pot when you are going to have to play out of position - just get out cheap and wait for the button.  I know it sounds strange but giving the bb to the button would give it too much power (even though it would have a forced full bet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15365" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T19:00:44.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27781" CreationDate="2016-02-19T21:19:21.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/rex/support/Rex_Ruleboook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; on page 14 (emphasis in rulebook):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Xxcha victory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the game, the Xxcha player predicts a player and a game round. He records this prediction by choosing a race prediction token and a round prediction token. He places the chosen tokens facedown next to his race sheet and returns all unchosen prediction tokens to the game box (without revealing them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the chosen player wins (alone or as an ally, even as the Xxcha’s ally) with &lt;strong&gt;any victory condition&lt;/strong&gt; during the predicted game round, the Xxcha player wins the game instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the Sol and Hacan Special Victories count as a victory condition. The Xxcha player could predict a Hacan win on turn 8, and whether they Hacan win by stongholds or they win because no one else has, the Xxcha could snatch victory away. This seems like a doable strategy, as long as alliances aren't working to get the game done as fast as possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T21:19:21.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28998" CreationDate="2016-02-19T22:26:17.293" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.baronbarclay.com/rainbow&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rainbow&lt;/em&gt; movements&lt;/a&gt; have individuals remaining a single direction, but only work for a number of tables that is a prime number. If you had 'Pros' sitting North and East, and 'Ams' sitting South and West, then you can also switch partners once each round. My copy of &lt;strong&gt;Duplicate Bridge Direction&lt;/strong&gt; by &lt;em&gt;Alex Groner&lt;/em&gt; (1977)  describes these in &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Chapter 7&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; and lists detailed movements for several possible table numbers in &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Appendix F&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/movements_for_bridge.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Bridge Guys&lt;/a&gt; provide sample table cards for numerous movements, including  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/pdf/Movements/IN/20_player_individual_guide_card_20_30boards.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a 5 table Rainbow Individual Movement &lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-02-19T23:52:46.403" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T23:52:46.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29005" CreationDate="2016-02-19T22:34:47.143" Score="1" ViewCount="1369" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any other creatures that have an ability that's the same as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nettle%20Drone&quot;&gt;Nettle Drone&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability, &amp;quot;Whenever you cast a colorless spell, untap [card name]&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure how exactly to search for it. Any insight?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The things I tried on Gatherer brought back a lot of false positives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T00:11:18.717" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T17:30:39.023" Title="Creatures with &quot;Whenever you cast a colorless spell, untap ~&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29003" CreationDate="2016-02-19T22:41:10.080" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're looking for cards that untap based on some event, a query on magiccards.info like &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Awhenever+o%3Auntap+o%3Acast&amp;amp;v=spoiler&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;o:whenever o:untap o:cast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; might be what you're looking for. Essentially, you are trying to distill down the nature of what you are looking for.  You want a trigger (whenever), from an event (cast), and an action (untap).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the example query gives all cards that check the casting of a spell and untap something.  To make it more specific, &lt;a href=&quot;https://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3Awhenever%20o%3Auntap%20o%3Acast&amp;amp;v=spoiler&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;adding another modifier&lt;/a&gt; (colorless) shows that Nettle Drone is the only card with the same trigger and same action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T17:30:39.023" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T17:30:39.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29003" CreationDate="2016-02-19T22:41:28.783" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;One option is to use Scryfall, which uses &quot;~&quot; in card text search to mean the name of the card that the text is on. So, for example, you can search&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=o%3A%22Whenever+you+cast+a+colorless+spell%2C+untap+~%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;o:&quot;Whenever you cast a colorless spell, untap ~&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This gives exactly one result: Nettle Drone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, Scryfall has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/docs/regular-expressions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;regular expression search&lt;/a&gt; that supports the same meaning of &quot;~&quot;. So if you do the following card text search, you end up at Nettle Drone:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=re%3A%22Whenever+you+cast+a+colorless+spell%2C+untap+~%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;re:&quot;Whenever you cast a colorless spell, untap ~&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a slightly broader set of results, you can search for&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=re%3A%22Whenever+*+%28cast%7Ccasts%29+%28a%7Can%29*+spell%2C+untap+~%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;re:&quot;Whenever * (cast|casts) (a|an)* spell,* untap ~&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This finds every ability of the form &quot;Whenever [a player] cast(s) a(n) [characteristic] spell, untap [this permanent]&quot;. It finds a total of 9 cards, two of which untap when you cast any colorless spell: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDwarven%20Patrol%5d&quot;&gt;Dwarven Patrol&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNettle%20Drone%5d&quot;&gt;Nettle Drone&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also use this less-accurate regex:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/search?q=re%3A%22Whenever+*+%28cast%7Ccasts%29+%28a%7Can%29*+spell%2C*+untap%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;re:&quot;Whenever * (cast|casts) (a|an)* spell,* untap&quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This captures more cards outside our intentions but with a similar effect (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bParadox%20Engine%5d&quot;&gt;Paradox Engine&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJeskai%20Ascendancy%5d&quot;&gt;Jeskai Ascendancy&lt;/a&gt;). More importantly, it includes cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlistercoil%20Weird%5d&quot;&gt;Blistercoil Weird&lt;/a&gt; which say &quot;untap it&quot; (in reference to themselves) following some other effect that's also occurring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-11T22:24:16.280" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T22:24:16.280" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29003" CreationDate="2016-02-19T22:41:35.247" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's way too specific. At the most, I'd look for cards with the following phrases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;cast a colorless spell / casts a colorless spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;untap&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That will allow &quot;Whenever a player casts a colorless spell&quot;, for example. And it will allow compound effects that include untapping.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even with those loosen criteria, there's only &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3AWhenever+%28+o%3A%22cast+a+colorless+spell%22+or+o%3A%22casts+a+colorless+spell%22+%29+o%3Auntap&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;one match&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-02-19T22:41:35.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29007" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T01:49:18.787" Score="6" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been gone from MtG for some time now and recently played a couple games with some of my old friends. Midgame the same thing happened that always happens when I play with that group. A fight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, it happened like this:&#xA;My opponent had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThorncaster%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Thorncaster Sliver&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVenom%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Venom Sliver&lt;/a&gt; as well as several other slivers out; while I currently had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMaster%20Transmuter%5d&quot;&gt;Master Transmuter&lt;/a&gt;, several artifact creatures out and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEthersworn%20Shieldmage%5d&quot;&gt;Ethersworn Shieldmage&lt;/a&gt; in my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent declared their attack step and then proceeded to deal damage to my Master Transmuter. In response I played my Ethersworn Shieldmage, he then dealt damage to that with another creature and then damaged my Master Transmuter again with another one of his attacking slivers. I tried explaining to him that although I messed up and played my response a little too early, he could not damage something and kill it before I responded to the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eventually after fighting for a couple minutes, I just gave in and had him kill all my creatures, and gave him the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He has been hounding me now for weeks about the actions and still telling me I am wrong. Looking for some answers to prove my point to him, I decided to research a previous inquiry here:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12641/do-thorncaster-slivers-triggered-abilities-go-on-the-stack&quot;&gt;Do Thorncaster Sliver&amp;#39;s triggered abilities go on the stack?&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;However it did not provide all of the information I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now here is the real question (again been away from MtG for a while, so I might be wrong), am I right or wrong in the following train of thought. Using the previous thread as an example, however inserting our previously stated creatures into the equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As in the example let's say he attacks with 5 slivers, one being a Thorncaster Sliver and a Venom Sliver.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using the previous thread as an example he moves straight to step 3, while skipping over step 2. Basically trying to resolve damage before he declared all of it. I tried to tell him that all of his creatures attack at the same time, thus he would have to declare the damage at the same time BEFORE he can pass me priority (during the game I kind messed this up by playing my Shieldmage when he first applied the damage and waited for my response). Is this correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That being said the damage that he declares cannot be resolved UNTIL I have priority, correct? Meaning that he would have to pass me priority after he declares all of who he wants to damage, but before it is applied or that (if in the case he does not pass priority) the damage carries over until the declare blockers step (CR 112.3c) when I would have priority, correct?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As I said during the game I kind messed things up by playing my Shieldmage when he first applied the damage and waited for my response; however his ability still goes onto the stack and he cannot damage it or other creatures until he resolves, correct? Meaning that any creature damaged before he comes into play would be destroyed via Venom Sliver's Deathtouch ability, however after he comes into play all creatures I had in play would not receive damaged. So technically it doesn't matter when I play him because once he resolves it nullifies anything before he was on the stack and after (especially if I played him during the example thread's step 2, like I was trying to do), because the damage would have to resolve and he can't be dealt damage before he comes into play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, am I right or wrong in this? I'm trying to understand &quot;Priority&quot; and how it would relate to the above scenario. I believe that I'm right, but I could be just as wrong in this...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15370" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T15:12:14.757" Title="Thorncaster Sliver and Venom Sliver vs. Priority or Lack Thereof" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29008" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29007" CreationDate="2016-02-20T03:06:18.983" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I think you noted, your play itself was in fact invalid - but you're correct in the general thrust of your argument.  The keys are that the ability granted to slivers by Thorncaster Sliver is a &lt;em&gt;triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;, and that all attackers &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be declared at once.  This is how things should have gone: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Your opponent declares the slivers that they're attacking with as the very first thing in the Declare Attackers step during combat.  This action doesn't use the stack, and it can't be responded to - they just indicate what creatures they're attacking with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Abilities triggered by the attack declaration go on the stack - in particular, the triggered abilities of your opponent's slivers go on the stack here.  Your opponent can choose what order to put those abilities on the stack in, but he &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; choose targets for &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; the abilities as he puts them on the stack.  Note that all of this happens before &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; of you are allowed to play spells or abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Once all of the triggered abilities have been put on the stack, your opponent gets an opportunity to put any other spells or abilities on the stack; after he passes, you're allowed to put any spells or abilities (for instance, Master Transmuter's ability) onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) Once both of you have put on the stack whatever spells or abilities you wish, you start to resolve the stack.  (After each item on the stack 'pops' you both have the opportunity to put additional spells or abilities, but that's mostly moot here.)  Damage from the triggered abilities won't happen until those triggered abilities are resolved here during the popping of the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key rules to understand here are rule 405 (governing how the stack works) and rule 508 (which explains the declare attackers step; 508.1 and 508.2 are about declaring attackers themselves and triggering all relevant abilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2007" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T03:06:18.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29007" CreationDate="2016-02-20T03:19:17.490" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simple answer is that your opponent cannot use any of the abilities from Thorncaster Sliver to deal damage to Ethersworn Shieldmage, and Ethersworn Shieldmage can protect all of your artifact creatures from all of the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the exact sequence of events for how your example should play out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent declares 5 Slivers as attackers, with both Thorncaster Sliver and Venom Sliver on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each attacking Sliver, your opponent puts their triggered ability from Thorncaster Sliver on the stack. This is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_attackers_step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;part 508.2&lt;/a&gt; of the Declare Attackers step. &lt;strong&gt;At this time&lt;/strong&gt;, your opponent declares which creature each ability is targeting (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/index.php?title=Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 603.3d&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 601.2c&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gains priority (rule 508.3). From how you described your example, they choose to do nothing and pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority. At this time, you cast Ethersworn Shieldmage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority again, but you have nothing else to do here so you pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gains priority. They have an opportunity to act here, but they can't do anything with the abilities from Thorncaster Sliver, because those are already on the stack. Once you do nothing and pass priority, Ethersworn Shieldmage resolves and enters the battlefield. At this time, the Shieldmage's ability triggers, and goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent has another chance to act, but they still can't do anything with the abilities from Thorncaster Sliver. They pass priority, and so do you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ethersworn Shieldmage's ability resolves. For the rest of the turn, any damage that would be dealt to any artifact creature is prevented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The abilities from Thorncaster Sliver resolve. All of the damage that they would do to artifact creatures is prevented.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent did one major thing incorrectly: they tried to deal damage to the Master Transmuter in response to you casting Ethersworn Shieldmage. You didn't have an opportunity to cast Ethersworn Shieldmage until after all of those abilities were on the stack, so there is nothing they could have done to make one of those ablities resolve before Ethersworn Shieldmage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, since you revealed the Ethersworn Shieldmage out of turn, it would have been reasonable for your opponent to choose non-artifact creatures as the targets for any abilities that they had not yet declared targets for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2019-10-08T15:12:14.757" LastActivityDate="2019-10-08T15:12:14.757" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29007" CreationDate="2016-02-20T06:08:00.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My opponent declared their attack step and then proceeded to deal&#xA;  damage to my Master Transmuter. In response I played my Ethersworn&#xA;  Shieldmage, he then dealt damage to that with another creature and&#xA;  then damaged my Master Transmuter again with another one of his&#xA;  attacking slivers. I tried explaining to him that although I messed up&#xA;  and played my response a little too early, he could not damage&#xA;  something and kill it before I responded to the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes that is not how it works. You declare all your attackers at the same time. Then your opponent would have a trigger to ping for a damage for each attacking sliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He then has plenty of triggers that triggered at the same time. He can then choose targets one at a time. Afterwards you then get a chance to respond with your shieldmate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Basically trying to resolve damage before he declared all of it. I&#xA;  tried to tell him that all of his creatures attack at the same time,&#xA;  thus he would have to declare the damage at the same time BEFORE he&#xA;  can pass me priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana abilities are the only abilities that don't use the stack. All these types of triggered abilities use the stack. Also an object on the stack cannot resolve unless the two players has passed priority consecutively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will always get a chance to respond to these types of triggered abilities and as you rightly allude all attackers are declared at the same time. He would have to choose targets for them all before he can pass priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T06:08:00.590" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29011" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29012" CreationDate="2016-02-20T06:44:07.690" Score="3" ViewCount="1029" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/25130/in-eldritch-horror-when-a-mythos-card-refers-to-a-monsters-toughness-does-it&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; post I authored months ago questions the use of the term &quot;toughness&quot;.  I recently found a reference in the Strange Remnants expansion that states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the active Mystery requires an Epic Monster to be defeated, place two Health on the card. The Epic Monster's toughness is reduced by one for each Health on the active Mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The act of placing health markers strongly implies to me that it is to be treated as if one did 2 damage on the monster, yet the wording here clearly states that the markers reduce the &lt;strong&gt;toughness&lt;/strong&gt; of the monster and do not necessarily do &lt;strong&gt;damage&lt;/strong&gt;.  This makes me question whether my original post regarding whether toughness was a measure of max or current HP was concluded incorrectly.  The only way it could be valid is if this treatment of Epic Monsters when advancing mysteries is explicitly different from the normal course of doing damage to monsters, which seems less likely, given that I haven't found any actual supporting documentation that clarifies that toughness is max HP.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T18:39:32.207" Title="Is a monster taking damage and a monster having its toughness reduced the same thing?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-strange-remnants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29011" CreationDate="2016-02-20T17:49:15.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reducing toughness is very different from dealing damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toughness tells you how much damage can a monster withstand. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &amp;quot;Monster&amp;quot; (page 8)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a Monster has lost Health equal to or greater than its&#xA;toughness, it is defeated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Toughness almost never changes. Several monsters (mainly epic ones) have variable toughness. Barring that, advancing the mystery is the only effect that can reduce a monster toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An official response from FFG (Nikki Valens) on this matter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Monster’s toughness is the printed value in the top-right corner on the token’s back (surrounded by green tentacles). A Monster’s toughness is unaffected by the amount of Health the Monster has lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of advancing a Mystery that includes an Epic Monster, the Epic Monster’s toughness is reduced by a number equal to the number of Health tokens placed on the Mystery card. This effect specifically reduces the Epic Monster’s toughness; it does not cause the Epic Monster to lose Health. In this way, advancing the Mystery can bypass any restrictions the Mystery might have for harming the Epic Monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T18:39:32.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29014" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T19:43:59.810" Score="2" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards have things happen when you roll a certain result on the movement die. For instance, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Troll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Troll&lt;/a&gt; has the option of regenerating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you roll a 6 for your move, you may &lt;em&gt;regenerate&lt;/em&gt; instead of moving. If you choose to regenerate, heal one life and your turn immediately ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Grim_Reaper&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Grim Reaper&lt;/a&gt; works this way too, moving when a 1 is rolled, and other cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Rumour_of_Riches_(Adventure)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rumour of Riches&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Flying_Carpet&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Flying Carpet&lt;/a&gt; also have an effect trigger this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But how does this work if you roll two dice for movement? For instance, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Riding_Horse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Riding Horse&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may roll 2 dice and add them together to determine how far you can move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.talismanwiki.com/Torch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Torch&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may roll two dice for your movement in the Dungeon and choose one of the results to use for your move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do abilities that trigger based on the result of the movement die happen when either die has the value?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2017-02-22T13:03:30.463" Title="How do actions that trigger on a certain movement die result work when rolling two dice?" Tags="|talisman|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29015" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:10:34.357" Score="4" ViewCount="1420" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing a red storm deck and I topdeck a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reforge%20the%20Soul&quot;&gt;Reforge the Soul&lt;/a&gt;. I only have 2 lands in play but have several rituals (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyretic%20Ritual&quot;&gt;Pyretic Ritual&lt;/a&gt;, etc.) in my hand that I might want to cast to increase my storm count, since they will just be discarded anyway. Can I cast the rituals before I cast Reforge the Soul if I were to miracle it or must I pay the miracle cost and thus not be able to pay for the rituals?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15377" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-20T22:31:29.917" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T18:40:06.910" Title="Can I cast other spells before a miracle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29015" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:20:26.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can cast your rituals before casting the miracle, though since it's your draw step, you'll have to spend any leftover floating mana during your draw step, i.e. on instants or activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full definition of Miracle is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.93a Miracle is a static ability linked to a triggered ability (see rule 603.10). “Miracle [cost]” means “You may reveal this card from your hand as you draw it if it’s the first card you’ve drawn this turn. When you reveal this card this way, you may cast it by paying [cost] rather than its mana cost.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The static ability is the reveal-as-you-draw part: you make that decision as you draw the card, before the game progresses any further. If you do choose to reveal it, the rest of the ability triggers and goes on the stack. All that's really happened so far is the reveal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That triggered ability (the &quot;when...&quot; in the definition) is where everything else happens. You cast the miracle card for its miracle cost when that ability &lt;em&gt;resolves&lt;/em&gt;. So before that happens, you can respond to it with whatever you'd like, including your rituals, and you'll still get to cast it at the end. (As long as you're able to, anyway - for example if you discard it, you can't cast it anymore!) Once you're done with your rituals, you let the triggered ability resolve, and only then do you pay the miracle cost and cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T18:40:06.910" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T18:40:06.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29015" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:23:43.343" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, you can play an instant (such as pyretic ritual) just before you play  a miracle. Just note that you can only play instants not sorceries (or any permanent without flash) and that also you cannot play a land before you play the miracle or any other instants. So you must be able to have enough mana to cast the spells that you want without playing a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The right way to do it would be: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw your miracle card &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You look at it and you decide to play it &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You reveal your miracle card that you are playing, the miracle ability triggers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With the miracle ability on the stack you respond to it by playing any number of instants. The instants will resolve first &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then when it is time to resolve the ability of the miracle card you pay for it is miracle cost, if you do then the spell resolves, you can also choose not to pay the miracle cost then you keep the card in your hand but you cannot cast it again for its miracle cost (you can cast it with the normal cost though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15378" LastEditorDisplayName="user12439" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T14:37:53.720" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T14:37:53.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:42:24.077" Score="2" ViewCount="700" Body="&lt;p&gt;Agricola is a great game, with good theming, and I'd like to introduce it to a couple of friends who are vegetarian. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is they might feel uncomfortable with the 'eating your animals' aspect of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I change the game's narrative so that they're not eating their animals, but doing something else that converts the animals to food? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-12-02T23:33:17.170" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T14:24:59.013" Title="How can I make Agricola vegetarian friendly?" Tags="|house-rules|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29014" CreationDate="2016-02-20T22:49:48.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to roll a 6 for your movement in order to be able to regenerate instead of moving. If you have Riding horse then you roll 2 dice for movement. If one of the two is a 6 you can regenerate instead as long as you control the Troll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15378" LastActivityDate="2016-02-20T22:49:48.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29018" CreationDate="2016-02-21T03:18:09.973" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game already supports this with improvements like Pottery, which converts clay to food. Clearly, the imagined implication isn't that suddenly your family has a fulfilling case of pica — instead, the clay is used to make some good which can be exchanged for food (and this exchange is abstracted away in the game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine something similar for animals in the game, and there you go. (Of course, you'll still have to &lt;em&gt;part&lt;/em&gt; with the animals — let's happily imagine that they are unharmed in that parting.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, if your friends follow the strain of veganism which holds that all animal agriculture is bad, this won't do, and you'll have to reskin the whole game significantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="317" LastEditorUserId="317" LastEditDate="2022-12-06T14:24:59.013" LastActivityDate="2022-12-06T14:24:59.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4280" CreationDate="2016-02-21T12:45:55.487" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way in which in grants the creature it is equipped to -1 toughness is the real selling point for it's degeneracy. That means that any one toughness creature dies immediately to it and lets you draw two cards as a result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Turning it into a one colourless mana, repeatable version of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=405122&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Altar's Reap&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Couple this with any semi efficient token producer that produces one toughness creatures and things get nutty pretty fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Usually when a card is banned, I can figure out what the reason is,&#xA;  but for the life of me I can't figure out why this card is so&#xA;  dangerous. Its ability is good but not game-breaking, and I can't&#xA;  think of anything that it would pair with to become game-breaking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WOTC actually gives a pretty good explanation as to why they ban cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One key to the continued health of Magic is diversity. It is vitally&#xA;  important to ensure that there are multiple competitive decks for the&#xA;  tournament player to choose from. Why? If there were only a single&#xA;  viable deck to play, tournaments would quickly stagnate as players&#xA;  were forced to either play that deck or a deck built specifically to&#xA;  beat it. In addition, different players enjoy playing different types&#xA;  of decks. If there are plenty of viable options to play, there will be&#xA;  more players at more tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To help maintain the diversity and health of the Magic tournament&#xA;  environment, a system of banned and restricted lists has been&#xA;  developed. These lists are made up of cards that are either not&#xA;  allowed at all, or allowed only in a very limited manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you take this standard you ask yourself how does this card fit into this? In regards to diversity this card would kill all of it. Every deck would run four of this card and every deck would have to have a way to deal with this card. You would basically have a slightly different version of the Jace wars we once had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would mean that the colours with good early creatures and artifact removal would be the most competitive. Control decks would be efficiently killed as you would never want to not run this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by WOTC own standards of why they ban cards this card most assuredly fits the bill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T16:01:40.407" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T16:01:40.407" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29022" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-21T21:33:32.503" Score="0" ViewCount="5589" Body="&lt;p&gt;So all I need to know is if there are any known MTG cards that say &quot;pay one colorless mana: produce one mana of any color.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15387" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-21T22:02:07.203" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T05:53:33.557" Title="What cards transfer mana from colorless to any color?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-manabase|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-02-22T17:21:48.800" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29023" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29025" CreationDate="2016-02-21T21:40:34.600" Score="6" ViewCount="884" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that a TIE fighter moves first and his final position causes an overlap with a X-wing fighter. Then the X-wing fighter moves and in its final position is no longer touching that of the overlapping TIE fighter's first move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this still considered an overlap for the TIE fighter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13639" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T05:33:18.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T05:33:18.587" Title="X-Wing 'Overlapping' ships question" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29024" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29184" CreationDate="2016-02-21T21:49:56.240" Score="3" ViewCount="101" Body="&lt;p&gt;This has caused a large amount of discussion today and we couldn't find a suitable answer in the rule book. When a blast marker (not flamer template) hits a multistorey building, who gets hit? Is it everyone or is one level nominated. If possible, could you also provide a pointer to where the information is? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:55:23.870" Title="Blast markers hitting multistorey buildings" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29023" CreationDate="2016-02-21T22:13:03.353" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, this is an overlap.  Each ships move is completed in order without regard to what other ships &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; do in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the TIE fighter overlaps the X-Wing follow the procedure on page 17 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/x-wing/support/SWX01_XwingCoreRulebook_lowres.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; to resolve the overlap before moving on to the X-Wing's move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reminder - the TIE fighter loses his &lt;em&gt;Perform Action&lt;/em&gt; step as a penalty for causing the overlap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T22:13:03.353" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29022" CreationDate="2016-02-21T22:13:04.167" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For once per turn effects, something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Prism&quot;&gt;Mana Prism&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prophetic%20Prism&quot;&gt;Prophetic Prism&lt;/a&gt; do that. For permanent &amp;quot;spend mana as if it were any kind&amp;quot;, something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt; might be your only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-21T22:13:04.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2016-02-22T02:07:15.450" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did well playing chess in early '70s H.S. tourneys. Always used Descriptive Annotation. IMHO Algebraic format removed a portion of humanity from the game and replaces with a metric type of system. Its one of the main reasons why my romance with the game ended. Why does everything always get squished down to its simplest form? Don't answer that. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15390" LastEditorUserId="15390" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T02:16:27.150" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T02:16:27.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29022" CreationDate="2016-02-22T05:53:33.557" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Using Wizards &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;, you can search for permanents that will filter mana for you. Via Advanced Search, use the following in the Rules Text Box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;, {T}: Add one mana&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add it in its entirety, including the quotations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T05:53:33.557" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29029" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T07:59:01.263" Score="3" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing my son using a green deck.  I played a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pelakka%20Wurm&quot;&gt;Pelakka Wurm&lt;/a&gt; which has trample.  He played an Eldrazi with deathtouch.  He is a firm believer as soon as the attackers and blockers are announced, the deathtouch would kill the Wurm.  I tried to get him to understand it would be taken care of in the damage phase and the Trample would in fact still do its damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I know that Trample damage will take affect on the defending player only after it does lethal dmg to the blocking creature.  So, I announce the attackers and he announces the defenders.  The issue I have is, would my dmg take affect before his deathtouch does.  I believe my dmg is resolved first, activating the trample.  His dmg is activated second, satisfying the rules for deathtouch to work.  That card would destroy the Wurm, but the Wurm would complete the Trample before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15392" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T08:51:14.187" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T12:16:56.360" Title="Will my Pelakka Wurm still deal trample damage vs Deathtouch?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-02-22T13:26:29.510" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29029" CreationDate="2016-02-22T08:11:41.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;All combat damage happens at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your son assigns the damage with the Eldrazi. You assign the damage with Pelakka Wurm. If Wurm's power is higher then Eldrazi's toughness you'll be able to assign the surplus to your son.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then all damage is dealt at the same time. Your wurm dies, as Eldrazi had deathtouch. But the Wurm also does it's damage to the Eldrazi and, possibly, your son.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Eldrazi had First Stike - that would be a different story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T08:11:41.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29031" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29029" CreationDate="2016-02-22T09:54:14.197" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your wurm deals damage to the eldrazi, any damage over the eldrazi's health is dealt to the player instead. At the same time, the eldrazi deals damage to your wurm. Since the eldrazi has deathtouch, as long as at least 1 point of damage is dealt by it, the opposing creature will be killed. The only way in which deathtouch would &quot;prevent&quot; trample is if the eldrazi had First Strike or Double Strike where it'd deal damage before the wurm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2. Deathtouch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2b Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature’s toughness. See rules 510.1c–d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15393" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T12:16:56.360" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T12:16:56.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29032" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29033" CreationDate="2016-02-22T10:25:27.800" Score="8" ViewCount="814" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many cards on gatherer have some amount of Gatherer Rulings (for example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Evocation&quot;&gt;Wild Evocation&lt;/a&gt; has quite a few).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are these rulings just a shorthand and reminders of the relevant bits of the rules (i.e. if you knew the complete rules of MTG off-by-heart and how to apply them perfectly, then you would be able to derive everything in the Gatherer Ruling)? Or do these rulings fundamentally change the rules of MTG (i.e. the card would function differently if the rulings were not there)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8160" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:31:39.670" Title="How do Gatherer Rulings interact with existing rules?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29032" CreationDate="2016-02-22T10:33:32.900" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rulings on Gatherer are simply applications of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;, taking what the card actually says and applying the rules. They don't change how cards work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could indeed deduce all rulings, but it's still incredibly helpful to provide them because the Comprehensive Rules are quite long and detailed and often abstract, so to most players it won't even be clear where to look for things, and of course if you're in the middle of a game you want a quick answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulings do also often clarify or explain the actual words on the card, that is, some of the deduction does also involve understanding English. For example, one of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Evocation&quot;&gt;Wild Evocation&lt;/a&gt;'s rulings is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player reveals a nonland card, that player must cast that card if it's possible to do so, even if he or she doesn't want to. ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and that's because Wild Evocation says &amp;quot;the player casts it&amp;quot; not &amp;quot;the player may cast it.&amp;quot; There's nothing in the comprehensive rules that's really going to explain that, it's just understanding what the words mean.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T10:40:27.200" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T10:40:27.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29034" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T14:46:30.800" Score="3" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if you did not realize you could have laid a card down, and used it later in the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance player one lays a 2, player 2 a Q, player 3 a 6, player 4 a 6, then four goes, so player four moves one; but then at the end of the game noticed on the last round player four could have put down another six that she had in her hand. How would you play that six? Would you be allowed to use it, or would it be a dead card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15397" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T15:19:11.450" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:26:22.973" Title="Holding a card by accident" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29034" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:26:22.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the ACC's &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cribbage.org/rules/rule7.asp#section3&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;tournament rule 7.3&lt;/a&gt;, on reneging:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any cards played after the renege occurs or the pegging of a &quot;go&quot; shall be retrieved by both players, and any points pegged (or scored) are retracted. The non-offending player receives two points for each card that singly could have been played (judges confirm number of cards). The nonoffending player decides if the reneged card(s) will be dead or played. Play continues, and all cards in both hands and crib are counted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, the play would be brought back to the point of the incorrect go call, the non-offending team would peg two points, and then decide whether or not the remaining six would get to be played.  The scoring of the hands would be unaffected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:26:22.973" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29032" CreationDate="2016-02-22T15:31:39.670" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically they are just reminders or tips on how the interactions play out, but sometimes they are notices that the card works differently than how it is read. these are called &quot;errata.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3641&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Impulse&lt;/a&gt;. Original printings said you shuffled your deck after putting cards on the bottom, but the errata removes that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15398" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T15:31:39.670" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29040" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T17:40:30.100" Score="6" ViewCount="989" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there any online courses like codecademy.com or teamtreehouse.com for Board Games development? Or something similar where you can learn BG development? Also if you know any other useful resources like books, videos and similar things, please share&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15099" LastEditorUserId="15099" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T12:31:06.277" LastActivityDate="2018-06-03T18:53:07.597" Title="Board Games development online course" Tags="|game-development|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ClosedDate="2018-06-04T18:21:36.520" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29040" CreationDate="2016-02-22T18:48:36.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are a couple EdX options. The first is about game design (both board and computer games). The second focuses on games meant for education.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.edx.org/course/introduction-game-design-mitx-11-126x&quot;&gt;https://www.edx.org/course/introduction-game-design-mitx-11-126x&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.edx.org/course/design-development-games-learning-mitx-11-127x&quot;&gt;https://www.edx.org/course/design-development-games-learning-mitx-11-127x&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T18:48:36.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-22T20:48:02.413" Score="4" ViewCount="597" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would be the key strategy points in dungeon petz which may improve the chance of winning? Which kind of pets are more beneficial to have? Having one pet seems like it is mostly not enough for winning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I know is choosing a pet with one or more similar color needs may help, however I'm not sure which colors are wise to pair or choose. Pets' food needs are sometimes really hard to fulfill. Mostly, it is really costly to be the first to the right food market or catch a potion card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15403" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-22T21:55:32.527" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T15:16:43.297" Title="Dungeon Petz strategy" Tags="|dungeon-petz|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29042" CreationDate="2016-02-22T21:52:10.980" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that there are a few things you can focus on that will improve your chances of winning. In no particular order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take cages that allow you to use imps for other purposes. These are the cages that feed/play with/clean up after your pets without needing imps. If you need to hold back imps in order to deal with your pets, you aren't using them to gain additional resources. This can also be accomplished with add-ons, but don't rely on them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take additional imps when possible (but don't pay too much for them). This is especially handy in round three and four where you get a high rate of return. I wouldn't ever take this action using more imps than the number you will get back. This is especially true in later rounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take pets that are omnivores. This allows you to take either meat or vegetables, making it less likely you'll be fighting over resources with other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to get two pets in the first three rounds. This will help with both exhibitions and business.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decide on one of two strategies for your need cards early on. (1) Keep as many of one type of need card as possible (e.g.: hunger needs; anger needs). This is a high risk/high reward strategy, where if a customer wants a trait you have a lot of, you can get a good sale. In this case, you also need to allow for the possibility you aren't going to be selling pets to certain customers. (2) Diversify your need cards as much as possible so your pets can be acceptable to a larger number of customers. The reward here is lower, but more consistent over the course of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ignore the hospital unless you have imps that need healing. The potions generally are not worth the imps. You could instead be setting up for the market by adding an imp to the platform, or taking artifacts that have a higher likelihood to be helpful over the course of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll notice that the first three things have something in common: they allow you to maximize your imp usage. The more free imps you have, the more actions you can take, so the more resources and options you're going to have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're noticing a player that consistently places a bunch of imps on the first burrow so they can take the first action, let them. They are taking fewer actions over the course of the game and paying a premium for those actions. You may want to overpay in rounds one or two so that you can get the cage that saves you more imps down the line, but don't do this for the whole game. If you set up well at the beginning, you shouldn't have to overpay in rounds three, four, or five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try not to worry about the color combinations of your pets. You're going to be drawing a need card for each of their colors anyway, and in general, this is going to be an aspect of the game that's hard to control. Focusing on other parts is probably more important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-02-22T21:52:10.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29046" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-23T03:04:34.187" Score="6" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two of my friends and I were playing MTG and someone (we'll call her player 1) had played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Siren%20of%20the%20Fanged%20Coast&quot;&gt;Siren of the Fanged Coast&lt;/a&gt; (SFC) and she was going to use its 'control creature' ability against one of player 2's god, which player 1 couldn't pay it's devotion cost to keep it as a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is this: After player 1 ends her turn (while controlling the god) and it then became an enchantment would she still be in control of it? My reasoning is since SFC's ability isn't like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Control&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt;, where as that's a passive ability of the card, SFC's ability is a one-off thing. You officially have control of the god, it just so happens to become an enchantment shortly after you take it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15410" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T13:46:19.303" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T13:46:19.303" Title="Siren of the Fanged Coast vs. Devotion" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29046" CreationDate="2016-02-23T03:18:10.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the tribute wasn't paid for SFC, the if statement of the Come into Play ability is satisfied. Player 1 gains control of the God, but only if it is a legal target, i.e. Player 2 has devotion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Player 1 gains control of the god, since she doesn't have devotion it stops being a creature. However, she retains control of the God since the ability doesn't say &amp;quot;until end of turn&amp;quot; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of Act of Treason, or similar, against a Theroes God, the duration still applies even if it is no longer a creature. At end of turn, it will return to its previous controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T05:12:04.380" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T05:12:04.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29046" CreationDate="2016-02-23T06:31:11.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that the ability says &amp;quot;gain control of target &lt;em&gt;creature&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; only means that the chosen target must be a creature &lt;em&gt;at the time it is chosen&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;at the time the ability resolves&lt;/em&gt;. This is just like any other targeted spell or ability: targets have to meet the specified conditions when you choose them, and also when the spell or ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the ability resolves, it doesn't matter what happens to the targeted god's characteristics - whether it stops being a creature, changes color, starts being a creature again, changes power and toughness, gains or loses abilities, or so on. Nothing causes the control-changing effect to end, unless it has its own built-in time limit (for things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;). Of course it can be overridden by another control-changing effect, i.e. player 2 could steal the god back. Here's the relevant rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.2c. If a continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability modifies the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects, the set of objects it affects is determined when that continuous effect begins. After that point, the set won't change. (Note that this works differently than a continuous effect from a static ability.) A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability that doesn't modify the characteristics or change the controller of any objects modifies the rules of the game, so it can affect objects that weren't affected when that continuous effect began. If a single continuous effect has parts that modify the characteristics or changes the controller of any objects and other parts that don't, the set of objects each part applies to is determined independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're basically right about the difference between this and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mind%20Control&quot;&gt;Mind Control&lt;/a&gt;, by the way. With Mind Control, the control-changing effect comes from a static ability of a permanent, as opposed to the Siren's effect which comes from the resolution of an ability. The relevant rule for Mind Control is this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3b. The effect applies at all times that the permanent generating it is on the battlefield or the object generating it is in the appropriate zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in that case, the control-changing effect only lasts as long as the Mind Control is actually enchanting the thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T06:31:11.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23071" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:00:02.093" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;MUD could be Mishra-Urza Deck, named after the two most famous artificers MTG has ever known &amp;amp; for not having a colour.  From there, &amp;amp; over time as certain MUD decks became more prominent various names or iterations came about.  Prior to Urza block they were known as Artifact decks as colored decks used few if any artifacts.  With Urza block colored decks utilized artifacts heavily (esp. red, think Covetous Dragon, blue, think Tolarian Academy, Black w/ Memory Jar) thus MUD formed separately of Artifact decks which utilized colors along with the brown.  From there, as brown decks began ascending as tier 1 tournament decks they began to differ thus their name differed to MUD (Metalworkers) and Shops (Mishra's Workshop) to delineate how mana was formed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15419" LastEditorUserId="15419" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T20:58:15.933" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T20:58:15.933" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29050" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29051" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:23:06.857" Score="3" ViewCount="2204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I cast&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=368521&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Strangling Soot&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=393970&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Llanowar Elves&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before this resolves, my opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=205224&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; on the Llanowar Elves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Giant Growth resolves, making the Llanowar Elves a 4/4. When the Strangling Soot resolves, is it able to destroy the Llanowar elves, or does it do nothing because Llanowar elves no longer has a toughness of 3 or less?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15168" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T17:26:53.257" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T17:26:53.257" Title="What happens if a target becomes ineligible after a card has been cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-02-24T20:49:22.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29051" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29050" CreationDate="2016-02-23T20:25:15.833" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strangling Soot has an illegal target (only one) as it resolves and therefore fizzles (is countered by game rules due to all targets being invalid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell with targets, you check the validity of all targets as it is &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt;. If any targets are invalid, the spell is &quot;undone&quot; and goes back to where it started. As the spell &lt;em&gt;resolves&lt;/em&gt;, it again checks if the targets are valid. If any are valid, it resolves as much as it can; if not, it fizzles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. .......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T13:51:15.010" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T13:51:15.010" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27340" CreationDate="2016-02-23T21:42:04.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game does definitely exist!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bizarrely I asked my partner to play it this eve but he actually just threw it out today as a few pieces were missing, thinking it would be easy to replace! I've just gone to replace it &lt;strong&gt;hence this search&lt;/strong&gt; and I cannot find anything like it all online - no images or anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes exactly as you describe connect 5 instead of 4 with movable sliders that made the game much tricker and interesting! My partner says he got it about 25 years ago, such a shame it was a great game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15420" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-02-23T22:04:17.720" LastActivityDate="2016-02-23T22:04:17.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29053" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-24T01:56:11.303" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Strange Remnants&lt;/em&gt; is a small-box expansion to Eldritch Horror that focuses on investigation of ruins of ancient cultures across the world. It was first published in 2015 by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T03:58:04.163" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T03:58:04.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29054" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-24T01:56:11.303" Score="0" Body="A small-box expansion to Eldritch Horror that focuses on investigation of ruins of ancient cultures across the world." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T13:55:01.587" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T13:55:01.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29055" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-24T04:45:13.797" Score="7" ViewCount="723" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider a Dominion game where the only cards are Copper, Silver, Gold, Estate, Duchy, Province and Mine, i.e. the only action card is Mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an obvious optimal strategy/strategies in this simplified game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15422" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T18:19:55.870" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:21:01.827" Title="Optimal Dominion strategy with only the Mine action card" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29055" CreationDate="2016-02-24T10:19:55.363" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If your only action card is mine, there's not much you can do; just buy your first Mine as soon as possible to upgrade your treasures and maybe get at most a second one later on. But, otherwise, you have no other choice than just buying treasures, Gold or Silver. Still, this is not a situation you would normally encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T10:19:55.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22549" CreationDate="2016-02-24T10:49:47.137" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not Dragon Shield clear? You will be able to see the color and design on the back of the cards. This seems good for the flip cards as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15425" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T10:49:47.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22549" CreationDate="2016-02-24T11:23:25.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However it shows Blue sleeves for the Core set and Sliver for the expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This may be a misprint in the physical version. However, online information consistently states that you only need Standard Card Game Sleeves (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/fantasy-flight-supply/products/standard-card-game-sleeves/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gray&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/android-netrunner-the-card-game/products/android-netrunner-the-card-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Core Game - 6 Gray packs needed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/android-netrunner-the-card-game/products/data-and-destiny/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Data and Destiny Deluxe Expansion - 4 Gray packs needed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/android-netrunner-the-card-game/products/what-lies-ahead/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;What Lies Ahead Data Pack - 2 Gray packs needed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T11:23:25.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29055" CreationDate="2016-02-24T17:26:50.390" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ideal state is probably that you draw one mine per turn.  Any extras are wasted, and any turns without a mine are less efficient than ones that had one.  What that means in terms of when you should buy another one would probably be best solved by a computer simulation where you try it different ways and see what gets you the best final score.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T17:26:50.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29055" CreationDate="2016-02-24T18:58:48.607" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rspeer.github.io/dominiate/play.html#/BigMoney&quot;&gt;Dominiate Online Simulator&lt;/a&gt; I simulated a few Mine and money strategies in two player games against &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=625&quot;&gt;Big Money&lt;/a&gt;. The best strategy I could find was to play Big Money, but buy a Mine in preference to Silver if there is enough money. The simulator upgrades Silvers to Gold rather than Coppers to Silvers if there's a choice (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/07/09/dominion-mine/&quot;&gt;Dominion Strategy Guide&lt;/a&gt; agrees with this decision here).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tested varying the number of Mines to aim for and simulated 1000 games against Big Money.  Here are the results:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1 Mine:  59.1% wins&#xA;2 Mines: 56.3% wins&#xA;3 Mines: 53.1% wins&#xA;4 Mines: 49.7% wins&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the first Mine, additional Mines hinder your deck, as you start to draw two terminal actions in some hands. This is backed up by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/492706/my-first-article-basic-dominion-decks&quot;&gt;Matt Sargent's investigation&lt;/a&gt; where he tried to find the optimal number of various different single cards in 'Single Action plus Big Money' decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to try simulating this yourself, here's the strategy I was using:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;{&#xA;    name: 'One Mine and Money'&#xA;    author: 'tttppp'&#xA;    requires: ['Mine']&#xA;    gainPriority: (state, my) -&amp;gt; [&#xA;        &quot;Province&quot; if my.getTotalMoney() &amp;gt; 18&#xA;        &quot;Duchy&quot; if state.gainsToEndGame() &amp;lt;= 4&#xA;        &quot;Estate&quot; if state.gainsToEndGame() &amp;lt;= 2&#xA;        &quot;Gold&quot;&#xA;        &quot;Duchy&quot; if state.gainsToEndGame() &amp;lt;= 6&#xA;        &quot;Mine&quot; if my.countInDeck(&quot;Mine&quot;) &amp;lt; 1&#xA;        &quot;Silver&quot;&#xA;    ]&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastEditorUserId="122" LastEditDate="2016-02-24T19:21:01.827" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:21:01.827" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29055" CreationDate="2016-02-24T19:08:26.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best way to answer this type of question is using simulations. There are 2 Dominion simulators available: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rspeer.github.io/dominiate/play.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=144.0&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Dominate, I ran some simulations of different options; here's what I found:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying 1 Mine is slightly better than buying 2 Mines. Very slightly; wins about 54% of the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Buying 1 Mine when you could afford Gold is slightly worse that buying 1 Mine only if you couldn't afford Gold. (Loses 55% of the time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the script that I used in the simulator:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;# 1 Mine&#xA;{&#xA;  name: 'SingleMine'&#xA;  author: 'Gendo'&#xA;  requires: ['Mine']&#xA;  gainPriority: (state, my) -&amp;gt; [&#xA;    &quot;Province&quot; if my.countInDeck(&quot;Gold&quot;) &amp;gt; 0&#xA;    &quot;Duchy&quot; if state.gainsToEndGame() &amp;lt;= 5&#xA;    &quot;Estate&quot; if state.gainsToEndGame() &amp;lt;= 2&#xA;    &quot;Gold&quot;&#xA;    &quot;Mine&quot; if my.countInDeck(&quot;Mine&quot;) &amp;lt; 1&#xA;    &quot;Silver&quot;&#xA;  ]&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Big Money part of it probably isn't completely optimized, but it was copied from other Big Money scripts. But I kept everything the same except the Mine gaining.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-02-24T19:08:26.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28149" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:12:29.963" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Play at any time&quot; means exactly that. Whenever the player wants to do it, they can.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Play at any time during your turn&quot; restricts the prior freedom in one way - it must be the turn of the person playing the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No other conditions are relevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T14:12:29.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29066" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:23:52.963" Score="10" ViewCount="1124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I was playing &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/129437/legendary-marvel-deck-building-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legendary: A Marvel Deck Building Game&lt;/a&gt; using the standard solo rules. The villain group in my game was Underworld, from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/137762/legendary-dark-city&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dark City expansion&lt;/a&gt;. On one of my turns, I flipped Blackheart who has three abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ambush&lt;/strong&gt;: The player to your right (does something)*&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fight&lt;/strong&gt;: Same effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Escape&lt;/strong&gt;: Same effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I the player to my right? In other words, do I have to do the effect on this card if I am playing by myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;I can't remember what this something is, but that's unimportant to the question.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:59:23.323" Title="In solo play, am I the player to my right?" Tags="|legendary-marvel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29064" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:29:40.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T14:29:40.820" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T14:29:40.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29065" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-02-25T14:29:40.820" Score="0" Body="Legendary: A Marvel Deckbuilding Game is a deckbuilding game from 2012 set in the Marvel universe. Players create teams of superheroes in order to defeat villains and masterminds while surviving schemes. Legendary has a number of expansions which add components for higher variability." OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-02-25T18:52:37.003" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T18:52:37.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29063" CreationDate="2016-02-25T17:01:16.250" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, you are the player to your right (and left) when playing solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/12967259#12967259&quot;&gt;From Devin Low&lt;/a&gt;, the designer of Legendary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blackheart's effects say &quot;The player on your right reveals a [MARVEL KNIGHTS] Hero or gains a Wound.&quot; When you do this effect in a two-player game, the other player is the player to your right, so that player must reveal or gain a Wound. In a solo game, the player to your right (going around the table) is yourself, so you gain a Wound.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T17:01:16.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23080" CreationDate="2016-02-25T20:37:28.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules as written state: &lt;code&gt;The Survivor plays an extra turn each time an&#xA;extra activation card is drawn in the Zombie pile.&lt;/code&gt; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://zombicide.com/dl/Z-Skill-List-S2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This explicitly states that the extra turn is only gained when an activation card is drawn (those that say &quot;all X 1 extra turn&quot;).&#xA;Note: this ability would also trigger at blue threat level, even though the zombies do not get an activation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated in the comments though, it is your Zombicide game, so you can adjust the rules as you please. If you do decide to allow gaining extra turns from extra activations from having run out of zombie miniatures, I would recommend limiting the number of extra turns a surviver can get to 1 per round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-02-25T20:37:28.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25553" CreationDate="2016-02-26T02:56:41.000" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E7%AB%8B%E7%9B%B4#.E5.88.B6.E7.B4.84&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Japanese Wikipedia article on riichi&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;打牌の選択（手牌の入れ替え）ができない。つまり、和了する場合と後述の暗槓する場合を除いて、自摸した牌をそのまま捨てなければならない。&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Translating, this means &quot;You are no longer allowed to select your discards (switching the drawn tile with a tile in your hand). In other words, save for drawing your winning tile or calling a concealed kan as described below, you must discard each tile you draw.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means if you draw a red five after calling riichi, it's either your winning tile and you're calling tsumo, you have three other fives of the same type and you're calling a concealed kan, or you're discarding it. You cannot simply switch a red five with a regular five, even if it wouldn't change your waits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15444" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T02:56:41.000" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28303" CreationDate="2016-02-26T10:43:48.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Official &lt;em&gt;Through The Ages: A New Story of Civilization&lt;/em&gt; handbook says that at the end of the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Final Scoring&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  At the end of the game, &lt;strong&gt;take all Age III events&#xA;  remaining&lt;/strong&gt; in the current and future events decks and&#xA;  evaluate them one by one. Order is not important.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Events from older ages have no effect&lt;/strong&gt; on final&#xA;  scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So everything is said clearly, events from older ages have no effect, no matter if they could be useful or not in the final summary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rules hasn't changed from the previous &lt;em&gt;Through The Ages: A Story of Civilization&lt;/em&gt; where the official rulebook was saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, reveal &lt;strong&gt;all remaining Age III Event cards&lt;/strong&gt; from the Current and Future Events decks and score bonus Culture Points according to these cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum up, if you want any of your previous ages events present in current deck to be evaluated and the game is closing to an end, you have to hurry up with playing new events and hoping that the one you are waiting for will be revealed before the game ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7436" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T10:43:48.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29071" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29072" CreationDate="2016-02-26T13:37:28.573" Score="7" ViewCount="1146" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my field is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a bear creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an elf creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;an aura (for completeness sake: it gives flying to the enchanted creature)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mycosynth%20Lattice&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bludgeon%20Brawl&quot;&gt;Bludgeon Brawl&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aura is enchanting the bear.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;The aura has &amp;quot;Equip {x}&amp;quot; granted by Bludgeon Brawl.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I was to activate the Equip ability targeting the elf, what would the aura be attached to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Which creature would have the +x/+0 and flying?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would the answer be the same if the aura could only enchant a land?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4867" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T13:52:11.203" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:34:09.527" Title="Is it possible to move auras with the equip ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29071" CreationDate="2016-02-26T13:49:58.113" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;An easy way to get an answer will be to look at Bludgeon Brawl's Gatherer tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While Bludgeon Brawl is on the battlefield, an Aura enchantment that somehow becomes an artifact in addition to its other types will also become an Equipment. Any of its abilities that refer to either &amp;quot;enchanted creature&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;equipped creature&amp;quot; refer to the creature it's currently attached to. It can be attached to other creatures using its equip ability. If you try to attach the Aura Equipment to a creature it can't legally be attached to, it remains where it is. If the creature it's attached to becomes an illegal permanent for it to enchant, the Aura Equipment will be put into its owner's graveyard as a state-based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is governed by a bunch of rules, but the gist is: you can equip the aura on another legal target, and it will give both the aura and equipment bonuses (it will be attached to a new object).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the second part, an Aura which can only enchant a Land will be moved to graveyard if the Land it was enchanting isn't also a creature, because an Equipment can only be attached to a creature. Basically, &amp;quot;enchanting&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;equipped&amp;quot; mean the same - attached to an object. And since the attachment is not legal anymore, the Aura will be moved to graveyard as SBA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4b The object or player an Aura is attached to is called enchanted. The Aura is attached to, or “enchants,” that object or&#xA;player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;301.5a The creature an Equipment is attached to is called the “equipped creature.” The Equipment is attached to, or “equips,” that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if the current Land it is enchanting &lt;strong&gt;is&lt;/strong&gt; a legal target (it is a creature as well), you may only attach (equip) the Aura-Equipment to another Land if it is a legal target, otherwise it will not move and stay attached to the current Land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11939" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:18:37.563" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29071" CreationDate="2016-02-26T13:58:03.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The aura-equipment will be attached only to the elf, and the aura's effects and the equipment's effects will apply only to the newly-equipped creature (the elf).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you instead had an &amp;quot;enchant land&amp;quot; aura attached to a land, you'd lose it as soon as you got the &amp;quot;combo&amp;quot; on the battlefield, before getting a chance to activate the equip ability. It'd be illegal for the equipment to be attached to it, so it'd become unattached, and then since it's also an aura that's not attached to anything, it'd be put into your graveyard as a state-based action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If on the other hand it was attached to a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDryad%20Arbor%5d&quot;&gt;Dryad Arbor&lt;/a&gt; (a land creature) it'd be fine - but if you tried to move it to a regular creature, it wouldn't move, since that's an illegal target for the aura to be attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/29072/409&quot;&gt;Vilmar's answer&lt;/a&gt; quotes the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBludgeon%20Brawl%5d&quot;&gt;Bludgeon Brawl&lt;/a&gt; rulings which pretty much cover all of this. As for the detailed rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4b The object or player an Aura is attached to is called enchanted. The Aura is attached to, or “enchants,” that object or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means the aura's effects will apply to whatever it's attached to. There's no notion of &amp;quot;attached-as-an-equipment&amp;quot; versus &amp;quot;attached-as-an-aura&amp;quot;. Objects are simply attached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.6a Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you activate the equip ability, you attach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.3. Attach&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.3a To attach an Aura, Equipment, or Fortification to an object means to take it from where it currently is and put it onto that object. If something is attached to a permanent on the battlefield, it’s customary to place it so that it’s physically touching the permanent. An Aura, Equipment, or Fortification can’t be attached to an object it couldn’t enchant, equip, or fortify, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not totally explicit, but this is the closest I could find to something saying that an object can only be attached to one object, i.e. if A is attached to B and you then attach it to C, it's no longer attached to B. (Clearly this is how equipment works, so I don't think we need worry about it being wrong.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taken together, this means that when you equip your aura-equipment to a new (legal) object, it becomes attached only to that object, and the aura's effects apply only to that new object. In your case, this means that the elf gets +X/+0 and flying, and the bear doesn't get anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the case where you try to attach to an illegal target, it's pretty simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.3b If an effect tries to attach an Aura, Equipment, or Fortification to an object it can’t be attached to, the Aura, Equipment, or Fortification doesn’t move. If an effect tries to attach an Aura, Equipment, or Fortification to the object it’s already attached to, the effect does nothing. If an effect tries to attach an object that isn’t an Aura, Equipment, or Fortification to another object or player, the effect does nothing and the first object doesn’t move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:34:09.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29077" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:04:32.533" Score="26" ViewCount="5165" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play Magic the Gathering with my kids a bit.  But, the games are often very one sided (in my favor) as they haven't mastered all the rules, and intricacies of game play.  For most board games, I can come up with reasonable handicaps when playing with them.  I haven't found a way for Magic the Gathering that feels right.  Things I've tried include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having them add 3-4 land to their initial hand (so they start out&#xA;with 10-11 cards).  (not enough advantage if game goes long) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making sure they draw a land if they are mana screwed.  (Not enough advantage if game goes long)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having them draw two cards per turn (way too much advantage for them)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other house rules that you have used to address this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2022-06-13T06:32:13.557" Title="Ways to handicap in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|house-rules|" AnswerCount="11" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29075" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:10:08.287" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;How complex are your decks? For teaching kids, you want simple decks: big green fatties, red burn, blue fliers, black removal, white weenies, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the time when I want to handicap myself, I intentionally use a weaker deck against a stronger deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also keep a cheat sheet of the phases of a turn, so that they make sure to go through all of them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:10:08.287" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:23:57.903" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try using lower power level decks. As an idea, maybe you would want to only build a common only deck for yourself or build decks around bad rares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion is to try playing archenemy but without archenemy (scheme) cards. Archenemy is a 1 vs many (about 2-4) where the 1 starts with 40 life and the many all take their turn together (like in two headed giant) but have separate life totals. The reason I say play without archenemy cards is because they are very powerful and this would probably tip the balance in your favor again. Rules about the format can be found here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_Archenemy&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic:_The_Gathering_Archenemy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4867" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:23:57.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29077" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T14:24:56.560" Score="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I have used the following and we think they work pretty well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start with a lower life total.  Start yourself off at 10 or 15.  As the kids get better, slowly increase it until you are back at 20.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remind the kids about all their triggers or abilities they should be using.  Especially when learning, having someone remind you to activate a useful ability at the end of an opponent's turn or that a trigger with a &quot;may&quot; in it has happened is quite helpful in learning how to keep track of a lot of things at once.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use simpler decks.  When teaching someone, introduce only a few concepts / interactions at once.  Starting with green fatty vs. white weenie lets someone learn the basics of a turn and how combat works without (usually) too many tricks via instants, etc.  Once they have a pretty good grasp on that, introduce something else.  Work your way up to the more complex things so as not to overwhelm them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack their deck a little.  We will occasionally &quot;fix&quot; a child's deck when they aren't getting lands or creatures or something.  We don't mind because we aren't looking to win, we are looking to teach and practice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't play as aggressively as you normally do.  When I play against my friend, it is no holds barred, all out play.  Against his kids, I might &quot;forget&quot; to use an ability or play a spell that would save a creature.  Not always, because they do need to learn how to deal with those things, just not every time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give the child a stronger deck.  Fighting an uphill battle gives you a little bit of a challenge.  You need to use your experience to overcome the power difference.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T14:24:56.560" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T16:34:34.210" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Start with a land in play.  Being one turn ahead on the mana curve is a big advantage early and mid game, but not an insurmountable handicap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose a deck type you don't play normally, and restrict yourself to that type.  You'll have cards less suited for the archetype, which means that both you and your kids will be learning strategies and designs - putting you both on the same level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;'Forget' to cast spells now and then.  Like a GM, you can keep your abilities completely secret, and it's easy to bluff that you were holding back in case of a bigger threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15451" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T16:34:34.210" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T16:44:29.240" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The closest thing to an official recommendation is a gimmick format from the Invitational, called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Auction&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Auction&lt;/a&gt;.&quot; Players would bid for decks they wanted by offering to play them with reduced starting life and hand size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To avoid deviating too much from the game's standard parameters, you can mix penalties for the stronger player with bonuses for the weaker player, e.g. an extra starting card and 5-10 life. (Even Auction, targeted at pro-level players making careful optimization decisions, starts the bidding at 8 cards / 30 life for this reason.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are we adjusting both life and cards? Because different decks value them differently. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/5070/1910&quot;&gt;Consider how differently a burn deck plays when you start at 10 life&lt;/a&gt;, for example. There are matchups where a life gap or a card gap might not matter much, but that's seldom going to be the case for both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try starting with 6 cards + 15 life vs. 8 cards + 25 life. Adjust by a couple of life points or a single card at a time until you find the right &quot;handicap.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T19:44:17.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28965" CreationDate="2016-02-26T19:04:37.290" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This Haunt is one of those that causes... issues and debate among the playerbase due to ambiguities in it, even after revisions (one printing of the haunt actually gave the astral spirit a Sanity of 1 instead of 6, which would prevent them from even possessing a body in the first place!). Liberal use of the rule on the inside front cover of the base rulebook is pretty much required here. The exact text of that is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What If There Isn't a Rule for That?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Many hours went into playtesting this game, but it's still possible you'll run into situations where the game rules or haunt books don't clearly answer a question about game play. Don't let that slow you down. In such cases, come to an agreement as a group for what makes the most sense and go with it. (If that doesn't work, flip a coin to decide.) Then continue your experience in the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few potential house-rulings to fix the token shortage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that the revised text is that the heroes must &lt;strong&gt;HAVE&lt;/strong&gt; the tokens, not &lt;strong&gt;HAVE COLLECTED&lt;/strong&gt;, the tokens they gained would be lost upon the destruction of the hero's soul or body and returned to the pool of tokens the heroes set aside. An immediate rebuttal is that the tokens are used to represent damage dealt to the Astral Spirit, and a second one is that in a 6-player game, you're still going to have the token limit problem even with this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Given that the sole reason for marking the body the Astral Spirit is attempting to affect is to count the number of successes, there is no reason why an alternative marker (e.g. a standard d6) couldn't be used. Unlike the previous house-ruling, there is no obvious rebuttal to this, and this in particular completely bypasses the physical token limit. In addition, in a 6-player game, it is actually possible for the Traitor player to place down 20 Tokens without ending the game (which is more than the total number of attribute tokens the game comes with), and these tokens are never removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the six interpretations you provided:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;erroneous sanity stat aside (Astral Spirit's stats are &lt;strong&gt;3 Speed, 6 Knowledge, and 6 Sanity,&lt;/strong&gt; go grab the revised traitor's guide), in a 5-player or 6-player game, this presents a problem as the heroes would only need to score two or one (respectively) Sanity attack successes against the Astral Spirit. Also, note that the Astral Spirit must have already destroyed the soul of the body it wants to affect before it can start affecting it, and if the Traitor (not the Astral Spirit) were to deliver the finishing blow, the body is destroyed instead of the soul [same effect from the Hero's perspective, but the Astral Spirit can't use the destroyed body].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See the first proposed house rule above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This has the problem of basically cancelling the progress made by the heroes. A potential fix would be to swap out the hero's Sanity Roll token for a Knowledge Roll token if you were to do this, as this would preserve the hero's progress while also not allowing the physical token limit to stop the traitor from winning by the special victory condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is even worse than the previous as if all 5 heroes were to have scored a Sanity Roll token, the traitor is still locked out of that win condition.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Not likely, given the traitor can place 20 tokens down in a 6-player game and the game only came with 18 attribute tokens total. If the Astral Spirit destroys 4 of the five souls and then affects each of their bodies 5 times each, the game still doesn't end.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;See second proposed house rule above.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of note is I think this is the only haunt in the game where the physical limit of tokens is a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="7325" LastEditDate="2018-07-03T04:25:04.987" LastActivityDate="2018-07-03T04:25:04.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T20:30:00.190" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As others have mentioned, you want to keep the interactions simple. Against newer players, Giant Growth is basically a removal spell, because they never see it coming. Doom Blade is bordering on a Wrath effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider either buying (or building) one of the pre-con Intro decks, which are designed to &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/magic-origins-intro-pack-decklists&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;support introductory play&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least look to them for guidance, they're low on instant speed effects, low on repeatable triggered or activated abilities (enter-the-battlefield effects are different because they happen once and at a time when the caster doesn't need to be reminded) and high on simple, obvious effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T20:52:57.040" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T20:52:57.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-26T21:09:27.333" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Rules are important&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do not do things abnormal to the comprehensive rules. This runs the risks of creating bad habits or an expectation of leniency when they start playing with others. Allow their deck to be naturally random, as this is a concept that will accost them through out their time playing; softening it may ease their entry, but it establish road blocks later on. A caveat to this is adjusting life totals; 25v15 is a good starting easement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Simple Deck Concepts&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Construct decks that would be balanced to introduce the basic themes of magic. Survivable White Weenies, Cheap blue Flyers or illusions, Red hasty throw-aways, green ramp into fatties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, transition towards an introduction of allied pairs and their mechanical agreements. Start with Green-White, progress through Red-Green, then Black Red. Tread with caution around White Blue and Blue Black, each has a penchant for being more responsive than active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T21:09:27.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-26T23:00:56.730" Score="4" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I run a white and red burn deck with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbond&quot;&gt;Arcbond&lt;/a&gt; and want to be able to save myself from taking damage but still have it deal the damage to everyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any white or red cards that could do this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15456" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T17:51:46.420" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:51:46.420" Title="How can I save myself from Arcbond?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29085" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-02-26T23:05:01.997" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choose a card from your format, undefined, to give the targeted creature lifelink.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T23:05:01.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-02-26T23:18:06.217" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a couple of common types of damage mitigation cards in those colors (primarily white): damage replacement effects and damage prevention effects. A &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%7C%5BW%5D%7C%5BR%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bm/If%5Csa%5Cssource%5Cswould%5Csdeal%5Csdamage%5Csto%5Csyou/%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;search for damage replacement effects in those colors&lt;/a&gt; finds 3 cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ajani%20Steadfast&quot;&gt;Ajani Steadfast&lt;/a&gt;'s ultimate ability says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;−7: You get an emblem with &amp;quot;If a source would deal damage to you or a planeswalker you control, prevent all but 1 of that damage.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gisela%2C%20Blade%20of%20Goldnight&quot;&gt;Gisela, Blade of Goldnight&lt;/a&gt; has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a source would deal damage to you or a permanent you control, prevent half that damage, rounded up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hedron-Field%20Purists&quot;&gt;Hedron-Field Purists&lt;/a&gt; can level up to gain the abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a source would deal damage to you or a creature you control, prevent 1 of that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a source would deal damage to you or a creature you control, prevent 2 of that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A different &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;color=+@(%7C%5BW%5D%7C%5BR%5D)&amp;amp;text=+%5Bm/Prevent(%5Cs%5Cw+)*%5Csdamage%5Csthat%5Cswould%5Csbe%5Csdealt%5Csto%5Cs(you%7Ctarget%5Csplayer)/%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;search for damage prevention effects in those colors&lt;/a&gt; yields another 18 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-02-26T23:31:36.403" LastActivityDate="2016-02-26T23:31:36.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T00:24:09.493" Score="2" ViewCount="1960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Phase 10, the card game, for years, but recently I started playing the android app version. It has always been my understanding that the dealer role rotates to the left after each hand, but, in the app, I can't figure out how they're decided who goes first each round. I've played one-on-one games, and the same player will go first 3 or more times in a row. Anyone have an idea on this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15457" LastActivityDate="2017-08-12T09:05:26.553" Title="Phase 10 - Who goes first?" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28627" CreationDate="2016-02-27T00:34:19.043" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in a game of my own yesterday, and seeing that there was no answer here, I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1533032/when-creature-actually-play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;over at BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to Matt Hyra (the lead developer of the game) Creature cards in your spell are in play as long as they're revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore unresolved creature cards in the same spell &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; count towards the resolution of Baconus the Butcher's ability. Other players' face down creatures &lt;strong&gt;do not&lt;/strong&gt; count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T11:11:55.063" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T11:11:55.063" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29084" CreationDate="2016-02-27T01:27:12.267" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards that I would suggest are &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=140214&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Purity&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=220235&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Personal Sanctuary&lt;/a&gt; (when doing it on your turn) or maybe &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=154005&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Runed Halo&lt;/a&gt; (naming the card you are going to cast Arcbond on)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T01:27:12.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29090" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29092" CreationDate="2016-02-27T08:20:14.183" Score="0" ViewCount="415" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Tokaido, when you play with the Crossroads expansion, you can choose a Panorama or a Cherry Tree card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when the 6 Cherry Tree cards are gone and someone lands on a pano spot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T09:37:41.123" Title="What happens when running out of Cherry Trees in Tokaido: Crossroads?" Tags="|tokaido|tokaido-crossroads|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29087" CreationDate="2016-02-27T09:08:12.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most rules given for the game it is stated that one player is chosen to be the dealer (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.tactic.net/site/rules/FIN/03140.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source 1&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://howdoyouplayit.com/phase-10-card-game-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source 2&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.natlassoc.org/fun/games/phase10/phase10r.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source 3&lt;/a&gt;.) &#xA;&lt;br/&gt;There is no mention of the dealer role going to another player in those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia says:&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;One player is chosen to be the dealer (alternately, the deal can rotate to the left after each hand).&lt;/code&gt;(&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_10&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;This seems to indicate that having the deal rotate is an alternate rule or houserule rather than an official rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T09:08:12.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29090" CreationDate="2016-02-27T09:37:41.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You simply don't get one.  The rules for crossroads state :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a Traveler stops at a Panorama (Sea, Mountain, or Rice Paddy)&#xA;  space, he must choose between:  • Taking a Panorama card of the&#xA;  corresponding type (basic game rules).  • Taking a Cherry Tree card&#xA;  (if the card is available)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a Cherry card is not available you just don't get one and must take the panorama. Of course remembering the basic game rules :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each traveler can create only a single panorama of each type; a&#xA;  traveler who completes a panorama can no longer stop on the spaces&#xA;  corresponding to that type (Sea, Mountain, or Paddy).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify If you have completed the panorama corresponding to that space and the cherry tree cards have all gone you may not choose to land on that space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T09:37:41.123" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2016-02-27T14:52:25.560" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the score geek app and it's pretty good. It syncs your plays with board game geek to and has pretty much all of their library available to score.  It's not free though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rebrandsoftware.com/app.asphttp://www.rebrandsoftware.com/app.asp?id=34&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Scoregeek website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3431" LastActivityDate="2016-02-27T14:52:25.560" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-27T18:39:47.133" Score="6" ViewCount="685" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own the core game, and the Forgotten Alchemy and the Call of the Wild expansions. That means a lot of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That also means that before every session, there is a lot of preparation. The worst part is sorting out the necessary Exploration cards. I love the game itself, but this preparation slowly drives me into madness... Well, this might have been the designer's intention in the first place. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way to organize everything in a way that results in less preparation time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15460" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T05:13:43.800" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T21:17:14.073" Title="How to prepare for a Mansions of Madness session efficiently?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29109" CreationDate="2016-02-27T23:07:59.857" Score="10" ViewCount="11270" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Yu-Gi-Oh!, there are some cards that allow to the duelist to win a duel automatically. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, I'm focusing my question on &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Exodia_the_Forbidden_One&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exodia, The Forbidden One&lt;/a&gt;. To win a duel using Exodia, you must have the five cards &lt;em&gt;(parts of Exodia)&lt;/em&gt; in your hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These cards are &lt;em&gt;(in no particular order)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Right_Leg_of_the_Forbidden_One&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Right Leg of the Forbidden One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Left_Leg_of_the_Forbidden_One&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Left Leg of the Forbidden One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Right_Arm_of_the_Forbidden_One&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Right Arm of the Forbidden One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Left_Arm_of_the_Forbidden_One&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Left Arm of the Forbidden One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Exodia_the_Forbidden_One&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Exodia The Forbidden One&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How to calculate the probability to get all cards of Exodia The Forbidden One&lt;/strong&gt; based on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Parts of Exodia taken from the Deck during each Draw Phase &lt;em&gt;with no additional card effects&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Yu-Gi-Oh! deck has:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;40 cards in total &lt;em&gt;(35 monster, spell, trap cards and 5 Exodia cards).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are only five Exodia cards (no copies).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw one card per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I posted a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/q/1428/15297&quot;&gt;question on meta&lt;/a&gt; about this subject.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The accepted answer &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; have a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/23108/15297&quot;&gt;format&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13387/15297&quot;&gt;similar&lt;/a&gt; to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/4004/15297&quot;&gt;any&lt;/a&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/3985/15297&quot;&gt;linked answers&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm looking for a detailed answer that explains how to make those calculations and the obtained results &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/13387/15297&quot;&gt;as shown in this answer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15297" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T04:11:35.270" Title="How to calculate the probability to get all cards of Exodia, the Forbidden One by drawing them from my Deck during the Draw phase?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29097" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T00:28:14.723" Score="0" ViewCount="17592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Would it be correct to say that before the round can be officially 'over' in Phase 10, everyone playing should be able to take a turn? For example: three people are playing Phase 10 and just started a new phase, we'll say Phase 6: 1 run of 9.  Player 1 picks up from the deck and discards a card from his hand; Player 2 picks up that card and is able to lay down 10 cards and discard the last card-thus, completing and finishing the phase.  However, would Player 3 be entitled to a turn before the round is completed? I can't recall if this is an actual rule in the Phase 10 rule book or if over the years our family had just adopted the rule to let the example Player 3 have a turn to try and be fair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15464" LastActivityDate="2017-01-03T00:12:27.860" Title="Winning the round before all players have had a turn in Phase 10" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-19T21:50:47.680" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29103" CreationDate="2016-02-28T02:12:01.170" Score="11" ViewCount="1191" Body="&lt;p&gt;Someone told me that in catan the possessor of the largest army card can move the knight each time it is their turn.  Is this a common house or tournament rule?  I could find no such statement in the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15219" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T04:00:59.677" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T03:07:01.753" Title="Can the owner of the largest army move the robber every turn?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29074" CreationDate="2016-02-28T02:20:55.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't like any of your suggestions because they mess with the mechanics that you're trying to teach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Two Vs. One&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Increase &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; health total, do not decrease yours. You having 10 life would introduce win conditions that shouldn't exist.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Allow them to mulligan without penalty until they are satisfied with their starting hand. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is one of my standing house rules to affect better games and avoid non-starters. Shuffling old Magic cards is iffy at best; you might want to shuffle for them. When we wanted to do a build check, it was acceptable to &lt;strong&gt;stack the deck one land for every two cards&lt;/strong&gt;. I do this at the end of every game anyway with the cards that are in play and then shuffle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also the &lt;strong&gt;two libraries&lt;/strong&gt; way, that I was never a fan of: you can choose to draw from your mana library or your spell library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It should be easy enough to make a deck with an advantage, you just need to remove the luck of the draw so that you can focus on game mechanics. I suggest that your deck either have no endgame, or one so unlikely you'll seldom win. Something so convoluted that you're willing to get romped so that you too can enjoy the game and get the occasional win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8575" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T02:20:55.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29098" CreationDate="2016-02-28T02:23:19.563" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, this is not a rule.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no rule I could quote to prove this, but as you say, the rulebook doesn't mention it. The rulebook says when you CAN move the robber (when playing a KnightS/Soldier or when rolling a 7), but doesn't list all the different times that you CAN'T.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It must have just been a house rule; Catan has all sorts of house rules people play in their own groups.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T04:01:16.460" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T04:01:16.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29102" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29856" CreationDate="2016-02-28T04:00:47.020" Score="1" ViewCount="419" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pixel Tactics 2 and some other versions, there are Operations (Ongoing Orders) that sit in the reserve spot of your unit. Do these count as heroes that can be attacked, or are they there for 4 Waves no matter what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T15:18:26.187" LastActivityDate="2017-09-30T00:20:03.180" Title="Can Operations be attacked in Pixel Tactics?" Tags="|pixel-tactics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29098" CreationDate="2016-02-28T05:32:17.623" Score="17" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This is not an official rule;&lt;/strong&gt; that is why you didn't find it in the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this isn't a rule is because it would detrimental to the game experience. The player with the 'largest army' has already moved the Robber at least three times and has 2 victory points. Giving the player the power to move the Robber each turn, without a roll or playing a Knight card, allows them to squash the efforts of the other players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thusly empowered, the player with the Largest Army could 'attack' the other players who are trying to gather resources. It would be hard to build the Longest Road, or upgrade their villages to Cities for Victory points, the robber keeps shutting down the resource tile you're depending on. From here, the optimal strategy would be to create and maintain the Largest Army, than hold down your opponents while racing for the other eight Victory Points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T04:01:52.493" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T04:01:52.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T06:01:13.217" Score="0" ViewCount="1228" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing magic on and off for a long time. The most recent time, however I've been taking a closer look at rules and action orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main thing that I've been doing now is cloudshifting allies in and out of play. I need explanation on returning to exile at the end step. Blessed vs. Cused spotlighted a card that exiles all creatures I want that I control and sends them back at the end step. I didn't know it was any different from returning during the rest of the turn, until a buddy said something about it being different. He basically said that instead of returning one by one and triggering separately each time, they all hit at once and only trigger once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this true? If it is can someone explain the ruling and process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15469" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T09:47:31.277" Title="Returning from exile at end step" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-02-28T15:48:41.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29104" CreationDate="2016-02-28T09:47:31.277" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yeah, they all enter the battlefield at once, but each trigger will be triggered.&#xA;When they enter simultaneously, they 'see' each other. If you have an Ally who gives lifelink, one who gives +1/+0 and one who gives +1/+1, the net result of them entering the battlefield at the same time would be +6/+3 and three instances of lifelink (which doesn't make any difference to just one instance, since it's not additive) for your three allies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T09:47:31.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2016-02-28T12:29:47.970" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a reference from 1978: In Winfried Dörholt, Das japanische Brettspiel Go, both games on 13x13 and 9x9 are presented in a very natural way to introduce the rules and to have beginners games (no claim that it is a brand new invention). Therefore, at least in Germany, the small boards were well-known in the 1970ies and probably much earlier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T12:29:47.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28642" CreationDate="2016-02-28T12:54:05.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Tips for if any survivor is lagging behind&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have them score objectives&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have them score a lot of kills with dragon bile attacks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Restrain the highest experience player from widening the gap. The tips gained for Clovis and Samson below have been gained from &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; using the wizard Baldric, who tends to dominate&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Clovis&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Role within the team&lt;/strong&gt;: close combat expert dealing with damage 1 zombies (walkers, runners, necromancers etc.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondary role within the team&lt;/strong&gt;: close combat expert dealing with fatties, if he has a hammer (or 2!)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optimal equipment&lt;/strong&gt;: double daggers, shield on body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best skills&lt;/strong&gt;: +1 free melee action, +1 free combat action. This is not meant to be subtle - just throw more dice!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Additional notes&lt;/strong&gt;: only give the hammer from the starting equipment to Ann or Nelly, as these are the 2 fastest survivors, so they become a rapid reaction force to early fatties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lehW8.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lehW8.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clovis ID Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Samson&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Role within the team&lt;/strong&gt;: door breaking tank. Best used for breaking open buildings and taking damage with his iron hide&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Secondary role within the team&lt;/strong&gt;: abomination hunter (if able to get +1 Damage: melee in the red danger level, though this is less important in the base game with just one abomination)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optimal equipment&lt;/strong&gt;: axe (for breaking down doors), hammer, plate armour on body&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Best skills&lt;/strong&gt;: +1 die: Combat (more flexible than +1 dice to roll: melee), Barbarian in the vanilla game (&quot;When resolving a Melee Action, the Survivor may substitute the Dice number of the Melee weapon(s) he uses with the number of Zombies standing in the targeted Zone . Skills affecting the dice value, like +1 die: Melee, still apply.&quot; - all those dice!) or +1 Damage if Abominations are a problem&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpHVo.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/DpHVo.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Samson ID Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T12:54:05.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29097" CreationDate="2016-02-28T14:35:23.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the rules about this. Yes, a round could end before a player gets a chance to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't really any less fair than anytime a player other than the last in turn order ends up going out; in that case the last player has less turns than anyone else. Having 0 turns instead of 1 isn't all that different from having 4 turns instead of 5. So if you wanted a house rule to make it more fair, you should always end with the player who played last; not only if it happens in the first round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The extra advantage of being the start player is balanced out by having the start player rotate. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T14:35:23.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29096" CreationDate="2016-02-28T17:28:06.897" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSCJv.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/PSCJv.png&quot; alt=&quot;This image shows the probability of drawing Exodia, and how it grows for each card drawn.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above picture reflects the probability of drawing the full set of Exodia, dependent on the number of cards drawn overall. For example, there is a 0.000152% chance the player will draw Exodia in their opening hand, and a 87.5% chance they will draw it after seeing 39 cards out of their 40 card deck. If all 40 cards are drawn, there is a 100% chance the 5 Exodia cards will be drawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Statistical Theory presented in the Question is best reflected as a &lt;a href=&quot;http://stattrek.com/probability-distributions/hypergeometric.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hypergeometric Distribution&lt;/a&gt;. Applied to this problem, the variables in questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Variables&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N = number of items in the population = number of cards in the deck = 40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;k: The number of items in the population that are classified as successes. = number of Exodia Cards in the deck = 5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;n: The number of items in the  sample = &lt;em&gt;Variable through experimentation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x: The number of items in the sample that are classified as successes. = Number of Exodia Cards that must be drawn = 5  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Narrative&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 5 Exodia cards (k) in a deck of 40 cards (N). If the player draws all 5 Cards (x), the player wins the game. The interest of the Question is the probability of drawing all 5 cards via only the Draw Phase. The player will see five cards in the initial hand, and an additional card per turn from the draw phase, negating any external effects. From that, over the course of the game, the player will see 5 + &lt;em&gt;number of turns&lt;/em&gt; cards in the game (x). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Equation&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;h(x; N, n, k) = [ k&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;x ] [ N-k&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;n-x ] / [ N&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;n ]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;where&lt;/em&gt; [a&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;b] = a(a - 1)(a - 2) ... (a - b + 1)/b! = a! / b!(a - b)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By applying the Known Variables above, the player can learn the probability they will draw the complete Exodia Set, dependent on how many cards they draw overall. In this, &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; ranges from 5 to 40.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since doing a tedious calculation 36 times is tiresome, computational power is a treat. The Combination formula, [a&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;b], is available in Microsoft Excel. Setting up a worksheet, using the equations as in this chart:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pNig9.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/pNig9.png&quot; alt=&quot;Excel math&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will support the evaluation of each step in the card drawing process, providing the resultant probability:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0kUDw.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0kUDw.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-02-28T21:02:26.613" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T21:02:26.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29110" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T18:30:42.627" Score="1" ViewCount="4008" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loved playing a board game back in early 90s. On your turn, you would pick a card which asked various questions on life situations. Then you had to pick someone playing who you thought the card would best apply to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who's most likely to commit murder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who's most likely to have an affair.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Who's the kindest person here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone else playing had to make their guess and then you would read out your choice. Made for a lot of debate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loved it and would love to try and find it again but cannot remember what it's called. Can anyone please help? Thanks all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15477" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T09:46:57.743" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T09:46:57.743" Title="Identify a card game where players are asked questions about life situations" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-03-09T03:29:30.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29111" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T20:31:04.260" Score="2" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following combination of cards in the Standard Format of Magic the Gathering, encompassing Khans of Tarkir, Fate Reforged, Dragons of Tarkir, Magic Origins, Battle for Zendikar, and Oath of the Gatewatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Play: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeker%20of%20the%20Way&quot;&gt;Seeker of the Way&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player casts: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbond&quot;&gt;Arcbond&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Valorous%20Stance&quot;&gt;Valorous Stance&lt;/a&gt;, each targeting Zada, Hedron Grinder. &lt;em&gt;Order is irrelevant.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player Casts: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Slash&quot;&gt;Wild Slash&lt;/a&gt; targeting Zada, Hedron Grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: Zada creates a copy of Arbond, Valorous Stance, and Wild Slash for each creature the Player Controls. Since Prowess has been triggered for Seeker of the Way thrice, Ferocious is satisfied for Wild Slash: Damage can't be prevented this turn. Each Creatures is Indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cascading, near uninterruptable chain of Arcbond reflected creature damage will deal infinite damage to each player and creature on the battlefield. Seeker of the Way's lifelink will keep the Player alive until everything else is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can stop this combination from ending the game in a draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T22:46:24.143" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T22:46:24.143" Title="How do you stop this combination?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29111" CreationDate="2016-02-28T20:56:08.613" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that everything described in the scenario resolves, and nobody does anything to stop it, the player with the combo wins. Once the copy of Wild Slash resolves, the triggers play out as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arcbond targeting Seeker of the Way triggers. Seeker of the Way deals 2 damage to you, your opponent, and Zada. Since Seeker of the Way has lifelink, you also gain 6 life&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If either player has 0 life, they lose the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arcbond targeting Zada triggers. Zada deals 2 damage to you, your opponent, and Seeker of the Way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If either player has 0 life, they lose the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goto step 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Throughout this sequence, the original copy of Wild Slash is sitting at the bottom of the stack, waiting to resolve. So, even if it was possible to counter a triggered ability in Standard, that would be insufficient to stop the combo unless the opponent could do so twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponent controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tainted%20Remedy&quot;&gt;Tainted Remedy&lt;/a&gt;, then the last part of step 1 would instead say &amp;quot;you also &lt;strong&gt;lose&lt;/strong&gt; 6 life&amp;quot;, so in most cases, this would cause you to lose instead of win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sequence can be stopped at any time by removing one of the creatures, either by exiling it (e.g. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Complete%20Disregard&quot;&gt;Complete Disregard&lt;/a&gt;), or by returning it to its owner's hand (e.g. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Force%20Away&quot;&gt;Force Away&lt;/a&gt;), or even by flickering it (e.g. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Displacer&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stepping back further, as you mention, the combo can be broken by countering either the original or the copy of the Arcbond or the Valorous Stance, or by destroying one of the creatures in response to Valorous Stance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-02-28T20:56:08.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-28T22:51:37.530" Score="5" ViewCount="7981" Body="&lt;p&gt;In SAYC my partner bid 1 NT showing 15-17 HCP (no void, no singleton and only one doubleton).  I was holding a hand of 10 HCP with 5S, 5H, 2D and 1C.  Using Jacoby transfers should I have responded 2D (showing 5H) or 2H (showing 5S)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15424" LastEditorUserId="1224" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T22:55:26.317" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T15:02:59.733" Title="Bridge: Holding both 5 card majors which should I bid first in Jacoby transfers" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29114" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29182" CreationDate="2016-02-28T23:54:07.217" Score="3" ViewCount="3865" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the encounter cards in &lt;em&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon&lt;/em&gt; have you put a treasure token on a tile. How do the adventurers pick up a treasure token? What can we do with the treasure tokens? They are worth gold, but I don't see anything to buy. Is it just for bragging rights?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. Can someone with more rep than me create a &quot;dnd-wrath-of-ashardalon&quot; tag and add it to this question?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:12:55.123" Title="How do treasure tokens work?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-02-29T00:09:09.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, the rule is to bid the lower suit in order to proceed more slowly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, the &quot;lower&quot; bid is two diamonds, partner transfers into two hearts, and then you bid two spades, staying at the &quot;two&quot; level when you show your second suit. It depends on the partnership style, but such bids at the two level are often treated as &quot;invitational,&quot; and not forcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you bid two hearts first and partner transferred into two spades, you'd need to bid three hearts to show your hearts. More to the point, a bid at the three level would be considered by many to be game forcing and show slam interest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever &quot;subsystem&quot; you use should be agreed with partner beforehand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T23:18:48.030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T23:18:48.030" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29116" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29117" CreationDate="2016-02-29T04:32:41.617" Score="7" ViewCount="5001" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Betrayal at House on the Hill&lt;/em&gt;, there is a rule saying that you can't add a tile if it would close off the floor:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I Seal Off a Floor by Placing a Tile?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can’t place a tile in such a way that it seals off a floor (that is, leaves no way to connect other rooms to that floor). If the only possible placement of a tile would seal off a floor, discard that tile and draw new ones until you draw one that leaves a free doorway. If all the remaining tiles for a floor would seal off the floor, then the person whose turn it is rearranges the floor until there are more free doorways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, some haunts require that a certain room be added, if it doesn't exist already. For instance, Haunt #46 (The Feast) says the following&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Attic isn't in the house, search the room stack for it and put it on the upper floor. Then shuffle that stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says a similar thing for the Dining Room as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if adding one of these tiles would seal off a floor? The room needs to be there for the Haunt, so not adding it isn't an option. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T04:47:57.020" Title="Haunt requires adding a room, but it will seal off a floor. What do I do?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29116" CreationDate="2016-02-29T04:37:44.220" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules for sealing off rooms have this line at the end:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If all the remaining tiles for a floor would seal off the floor, then the person whose turn it is rearranges the floor until there are more free doorways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems reasonable to infer that this rule would also apply if adding the necessary room for the Haunt also seals off the floor. Thus the floor will need to be rearranged so that the room can be added without sealing off the floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above rule also says that the person whose turn it is should be the one to rearrange the floor, which seems appropriate given that they are the Haunt revealer who is kicking all of this off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T04:47:57.020" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T04:47:57.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-02-29T05:13:26.107" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing SAYC there is always the possibility of partner making an error - both my partner or partner's partner. This is a different situation that two strong players with a very solid system understanding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With 10 points you are entitled to show both majors, creating a game forcing situation - however with a weak partner it is advisable always bid 2D first (showing Hearts) instead of the other way around, because a rebid of 2S will be  unambiguous to a weak partner, but a return to 3H might be misunderstood.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All else equal this also happens to be best practice, as Tom Au has already mentioned, but in practice there are advantages in this situation to bidding your weaker suit first - middle honours in partner's hand are gold, and he learns fo their value sooner this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T05:13:26.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29120" CreationDate="2016-02-29T08:02:50.547" Score="8" ViewCount="2688" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, I have this hand. 3 coins, one market, one library. So first I play the market, then buy something with the coins (plus 1 coin from the market) and then play the library &lt;strong&gt;having nothing in my hand because I already used the coins and the market&lt;/strong&gt; (so I draw seven cards or even more). Is that right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11846" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:27:12.417" Title="Should I use all actions before buying anything?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29119" CreationDate="2016-02-29T08:23:07.613" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The player must complete all of his Actions before&#xA;  he moves on to the Buy phase of his turn.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-02-29T13:27:12.417" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T13:27:12.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29121" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29114" CreationDate="2016-02-29T11:50:18.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/Wrath_Ashardalon_RuleBook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), under optional rules (page 15):&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Monster and Treasure Tokens&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  Some Adventures use Monster or Treasure tokens to add an element of surprise or risk to a particular scenario. The Adventure explains how to use the tokens and when they are needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an adventure gives no explanation for their use, then yes, they simply give the players bragging rights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T11:50:18.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-02-29T14:06:14.177" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I personally would not bid this using Jacoby transfers, but using Stayman. By bidding 2C in response to the 1NT opening, you ask if opener holds a 4-card (possibly 5, depending on your definition of a 1NT opening) in a major. partner responds with: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Diamonds: none &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Hearts or 2 Spades: that one, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 NT: both majors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he has no majors, you can still bid 2H. Having asked him about his 4-card Majors, him denying and you still bidding one makes it at least 5 cards long. 3NT is still an option at this point, even with your distribution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he does have one (or both) of the majors, pick one for game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2020-06-05T15:02:59.733" LastActivityDate="2020-06-05T15:02:59.733" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29123" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-02-29T15:44:35.797" Score="2" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have enough decorations to activate lvl 1 and lvl 2 character's effects, can you activate BOTH effects or you must choose ONLY ONE of them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15489" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-08T02:19:33.803" LastActivityDate="2018-03-08T02:19:33.803" Title="Activation of character's effects (RE: DBG)" Tags="|resident-evil-deck-building-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21129" CreationDate="2016-02-29T18:46:46.363" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The oldest reference I found of official 9x9 pro games were those played between Go Seigen and Miyamoto Naoki in 1968. The purpose was to decide the proper komi on 9x9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for unofficial 9x9, it's probably been around forever...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T18:46:46.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29125" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29123" CreationDate="2016-02-29T20:00:58.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the ruleboook (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dropbox.com/s/xai11ce8817kfru/RE1_Rulebook.pdf?dl=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt;), page 10:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;LEVEL UP!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br/&gt;When a Character has received a certain amount (or more) of the indicated Decorations, that Character “levels up”, giving you access to more powerful effects to aid you in your escape. When a Character becomes Level 2, that Character has all of the abilities of Level 1 as well as Level 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, when a charachter becomes level 2 they can use all abilities of level 1 and level 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T20:00:58.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28969" CreationDate="2016-02-29T21:29:36.270" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adding on to Drunk Cynic, they're separate because they affect specific mechanics of the game. While these mechanics may interact, they are not identical and, with the ever-changing nature of the rules, having Play All remove Hand Limits would be having one archtype rule over another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a no hand limit rule in effect and a play 2 and draw 1 in effect, you would never have to worry about the hand limit anyway, but you don't discard it because, if the draw count is increased to 3, you still want that no-hand limit in effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, when you play the Play All rule, you still want to have the hand limit in effect so that, if Play All is eventually replaced, you have the most recent hand limit rule to reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15492" LastActivityDate="2016-02-29T21:29:36.270" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2016-03-01T05:26:30.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For a 30min to 1hr game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) don't use train cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) remove ALL bad cards, just use cargo cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) start with $100,000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) can always borrow any amount, repay double what you borrow, payable anytime before game ends&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5) draw $20,000 Per turn, no more, ocean space is $3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6) trains always move (if possible) Up to 20 spaces per turn &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7) use 4 cargo cards at a time, can place any 1 cargo on each card&#xA;.... Can carry cargo not on available on card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8) create 4 draw piles.... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9) if u don't like your cards, you must redraw 4 new cards.. &#xA;... Put each unused card under the stack you draw a new card from&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10) the only cargo cards that are discarded and out of play are the ones you've used (delivered cargo and got paid) - unwanted unused cards get recycled &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A solitary version takes 5min to play, above rules but don't use a train marker, draw tracks and collect on a card immediately if you are connected to source and destination.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15496" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T10:33:45.327" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T10:33:45.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29129" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29132" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:14:50.343" Score="22" ViewCount="1823" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our English-speaking friends surprised us in a game of Dominion when buying cards with no treasure cards on their hands. In the German booklet, a treasure card is explicitly required to perform a buy (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Um eine Karte zu kaufen, legt der Spieler &lt;strong&gt;eine oder mehrere&lt;/strong&gt; Geldkarten aus seiner Hand offen auf den Tisch. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A literal translation of the above would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“In order to buy a card, the player plays &lt;strong&gt;one or more&lt;/strong&gt; treasure cards from his hand to the table.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the English booklet contains the following phrase (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; play &lt;strong&gt;some or all&lt;/strong&gt; of the treasure cards from his hand to his play area [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the English rule book, I wasn't able to prove their move illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;So, can I buy a card without any treasure cards on my hand?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1826" LastActivityDate="2020-11-16T11:09:11.300" Title="Can I buy a card without any treasure cards on my hand?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29129" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:40:37.257" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The German translation is wrong. If you already have enough coins from action cards (or if the card you're buying costs 0 coins) you don't have to play a treasure card from your hand in order to buy a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English rules summary (right hand side) says it best:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player may use any &#xA;  combination of Treasure cards &#xA;  from his hand and coins shown &#xA;  on Action cards played this &#xA;  turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T12:40:37.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29129" CreationDate="2016-03-01T12:41:13.567" Score="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: yes, its possible and it has been officially acknowledged that the German rules are wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: as you have already quoted from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_278_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;base game rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The cost of a card is in its lower left corner. The player &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; play some or all of the Treasure cards from his hand to his play area and add to their value the coins provided by Action cards played this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your total available money comes from played treasures and action cards.&#xA;An additional example for a leftover buy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he wants to use all 6 coins to buy one card, he can buy a Copper &lt;strong&gt;(for free)&lt;/strong&gt; with his second Buy or not buy a second card. Players do not have to use any or all of their Buys.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This example makes clear that you can buy cards for free, thus you are not required to play any treasure cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The English rules are the original ones and take precedence over any translation. Furthermore, Hans im Glück, the German Publisher, have officially - and indirectly - acknowledged that this phrase in the rules is wrong. From their &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hans-im-glueck.de/?188&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Regelfragen&amp;quot; Rules Questions page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Kauf&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zitat aus der Regel: &amp;quot;Um eine Karte zu kaufen, legt der Spieler eine der mehrere Geldkarten aus seiner Hand offen auf dem Tisch aus. Zu diesen Geldkarten kann er das virtuelle Geld auf seinen zuvor usgelegten Aktionskarten hinzu zählen.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dies bedeutet nicht, dass es nötig ist Geldkarten auszulegen um die Boni durch virtuelles Geld nutzen zu können. Es können auch Käufe ohne eine einzige ausgelegte Geldkarte durchgeführt werden.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Karten die 0 Kosten, können immer gekauft werden, solange der dafür nötige &amp;quot;Kauf&amp;quot; vorhanden ist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which roughly translates to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not mean that Treasure Cards must be played in order to be able to use the virtual money. Purchases without playing any Treasure Cards may be carried out in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-12-19T18:48:32.047" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29136" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:35:49.703" Score="3" ViewCount="872" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I ran four &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Outpost%20Siege&quot;&gt;Outpost Siege&lt;/a&gt;s had two of them on the field, would the effects stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover would the effect stack if I chose Khans/ Dragons twice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically if I had two Outpost Sieges would it allow me to exile two cards and play them each upkeep/ deal two damage as opposed to one if a creature leaves the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-01T14:51:47.817" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T15:53:14.163" Title="Do outpost siege abilities stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29133" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:57:53.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this rule answers your question.&#xA;Basically you get to choose the order in which they stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T14:57:53.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29133" CreationDate="2016-03-01T14:58:17.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each Outpost Siege will trigger and resolve separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T14:58:17.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29133" CreationDate="2016-03-01T15:53:14.163" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each Outpost Siege will trigger at the beginning of each upkeep. Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play Outpost Siege, naming Khans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play Outpost Siege, naming Dragons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, both Outpost Sieges trigger. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You stack the triggers in whatever order you choose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You resolve the triggers in the opposite order.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As each trigger resolves, follow the instructions written on the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you control three Outpost Sieges, then all three will trigger. If you control ten, then all ten will trigger. There's no rule that says, &quot;Only one enchantment with the same name can trigger at the same time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T15:53:14.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5304" CreationDate="2016-03-01T18:25:09.470" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a passed hand I would eagerly double with this hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;♠ KJ98 ♥ T9 ♦ A62 ♣KT92 &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but not with the hand you have inquired on. My reasons for regarding the hand above as significantly better are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Holding a good 4-card spade suit I can reasonably expect to compete profitably to 2S even if partner has only honour-third in Spades and a shapely 8 count or so. This &lt;em&gt;re-entering&lt;/em&gt; double really should promise 4 spades so that partner can respond 1S on honour third if second hand passes again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The minor suits have the broken holding in the long suit and the solid holding in the short suit. Reversing the honours in the minors weakens the hand by perhaps half a point in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Competing to three of a minor with two balanced passed hands is unlikely to be a winning contract; likewise with attempting to compete to 2NT.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponents can often get into trouble on hands like these so there is no  rush to compete. If the auction continues after your second pass with 2H - P - P back to you still retain the make a reopening double in a last attempt to compete in 2S. If instead a 1S, 1NT, 2C or 2D call came back to you in reopening seat you are just where you want to be on this hand; defending.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T18:25:09.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-03-01T22:59:08.710" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is mostly a matter of agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this is so, is that what you decide to do with a 5-5 game forcing hand would effect other hand types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some hand types the responder can have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-4 majors game forcing.&#xA;5-4 majors invitational&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5-5 majors game forcing&#xA;5-5 majors invitational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are multiple ways of bidding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, some folks play 3H response to 1NT as invite with 5-5 majors and 3S response as GF with 5-5 majors. This allows them to transfer and bid the other suit to show some 5-4 hands etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there is no one way to bid this, and is something you need to agree with your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1224" LastActivityDate="2016-03-01T22:59:08.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29139" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T02:08:46.720" Score="3" ViewCount="1522" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a ton of MTG cards sitting around and an urge to use them again.  I also have a 4 year old son.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure he won't appreciate my B/G infect deck or the rules of the game in general lol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to think of ways to use my stockpile for games with him.  So far the only thing I can come up with is to cut down deck sizes to 15-20 all monster cards with equal power\toughness.  So a bunch of 1/1-4/4's and we can run monsters into each other to let him figure out which numbers are bigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The post &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29074/ways-to-handicap-in-magic-the-gathering&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; is kind of related but it's focused on older kids that can read and do real math already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone else think of something fun to do with a megaton of old MTG cards for pre-school age kids?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:  And to clarify, I'm looking for non-destructive ideas.  I'm positive I'm going to get a few bent corners in this process but no glue\scissor projects please!  lol&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7655" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T02:08:46.720" Title="Magic the Gathering for very young kids" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|house-rules|kids|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-02T09:48:59.290" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29140" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T04:26:09.360" Score="7" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of Go, we were in a strange position. If my opponent moved at one point to put my pieces in atari, his pieces would get taken. If I moved at that same point my pieces would’ve been taken.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if neither of us move at that point, are our stones dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you count this kind of position in the counting phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15503" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T13:21:25.917" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T13:21:25.917" Title="End game deciding on dead stones" Tags="|go|scoring|end-game|seki|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29110" CreationDate="2016-03-02T05:23:48.753" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming this game an English-language party game printed in the United States, because that's what I know best, but variants of the &quot;who would X&quot; mechanic have been published for decades in many countries.  That said, searching BoardGameGeek for party games with social mechanics (particularly voting on other players) and limiting the list of games to those published in the USA from 1970 to 1999 gives four likely candidates:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2094176/true-colors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;True Colors&quot;&gt;True Colors&lt;/a&gt; (1990):  Cards show a question, and you vote on who best fits it - and try to bet how many players will choose you.  Questions are things like &quot;WHO would still clip coupons after winning five million dollars in the lottery?&quot; and &quot;Flirting is an art, WHO is the undeniable expert?&quot;  Has been published under other names and in several art styles, the link shows the box and components from the 1990 Pressman edition.  Closest match in mechanics and publication date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2094176/true-colors&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;True Colors&quot;&gt;The Ungame&lt;/a&gt; (1973):  This roll-and-move &quot;board game&quot; is more about explaining yourself to other players or discussing other players.  Questions include &quot;Talk about a happy marriage.&quot; and &quot;Share a childhood experience with death.&quot;  Not the closest match for mechanics or publication date, but it sold like hotcakes so worth mentioning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/146588/family-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Family: The Game&lt;/a&gt; (1990):  A board game about dealing dirty laundry about family members, questions include things like &quot;When it comes to smelly feet, our family's champion would have to be _____!&quot;  Not a very popular game and it doesn't use cards, but it's otherwise a very close match for mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/6413/who-said&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Who Said That?&lt;/a&gt; (1998):  A card-based board game, everyone writes an answer to a question like &quot;You're in a bar and find a wallet full of money, what do you do?&quot; and you try to guess who gave what answer.  Close match in mechanics but published a few years after the &quot;early 90s.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking personally, this is also how most of my games of Nomic and 1000 Blank White Cards end up, but neither game has set cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15451" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T05:23:48.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29110" CreationDate="2016-03-02T09:45:32.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1748/question-scruples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Question of Scruples&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, each player is dealt several cards which pose ethical questions, along with a single answer card (YES, NO, DEPENDS). The goal is to be the first to empty your hand of question cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question cards pose a range of hypothetical scenarios, in the general format of &quot;You find a wallet with £50 in it. Do you keep the money?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a player's turn, they pick a question in their hand and try to choose who to ask in order to receive the answer written on their card. If it does, the asker discards the question card; if not they replace it with a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the answer, the asker or other players have the opportunity to challenge the answer. If so, the challenger presents an argument as to why the target's answer would have been a different one, and the target has a chance to rebut it. The rest of the table votes, and the winner of the challenge passes a question card to the loser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the target answered NO, the asker (or another player) could challenge, arguing that the answer should instead be DEPENDS; &quot;If there wasn't ID in the wallet I don't think you'd try to find out who owned it.&quot; To this, the target responds, &quot;If I couldn't tell whose it was I'd turn it in to the police.&quot; The remaining players then vote on who should win, based either on which they think is more likely from their knowledge of the player, or on whose argument was better presented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T09:45:32.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29143" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T10:16:36.367" Score="4" ViewCount="1132" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bridge Playing SAYC Is it a rule for partner to announce to the defenders what an opening bid (eg '1C minimum 3') means&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15424" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-22T12:07:25.537" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T05:54:20.850" Title="Bridge: Is it a rule that you must announce the meaning of partners opening bid" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13874" CreationDate="2016-03-02T11:00:23.960" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The commander itself does not count as part of the deck. When you are playing EDH your Commander is technically off the board when it is in the command zone. So before you even start playing an EDH/Commander game the Commander is not in the deck. Ergo it does not count as part of your 100-card restriction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15510" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T12:35:53.840" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T12:35:53.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29152" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:32:38.840" Score="9" ViewCount="2396" Body="&lt;p&gt;I expect that the answer to the question in the title is &quot;yes&quot;, but I'm not sure where the official rules for Commander deck construction are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a chosen Commander a property of the deck, or is it possible for a single Commander deck to contain multiple possible Commanders and to choose before each game (as long as each meets the general requirements such as colour identity)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T14:48:45.867" Title="Is the Commander strictly fixed during deck construction?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:52:59.200" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you start the game, the card chosen as your commander must meet the color identity of the deck (well, vice versa, but the point is similar). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is pretty much a given from wizards if you look at the Commander 2013 products. In those decks, there are 3 commander oversized cards for the commanders you could choose, with the other potential commanders staying in the deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all that, if you change your commander in your deck, it is a new deck, for all intents and purposes. Now, in a tournament setting or a Best-of-X setting, is that kind of deck change allowed? I dunno, ask the host. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T14:43:11.960" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T14:43:11.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:54:44.617" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most commander sets released the last couple of years there were multiple legendary creatures in the same colour identity as the commander. those creatures could be used as an replacement for the initial commander if you didn't like the initial commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But to use an example of my own aurelia commander deck. It is build around the premise that aurelia is the commander and that I have angels as theme in the deck. But i could use my Iroas in the deck as a commander because it has the same colour identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As example of the commander decks released by wizards. In commander 2013, each deck had three oversized commander cards which are creatures you can use as a commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12685" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T13:54:44.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T13:57:38.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules governing commanders are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.1.&lt;/strong&gt; In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, it is an attribute of the card itself. The card retains this designation even when it changes zones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.6.&lt;/strong&gt; At the start of the game, each player puts his or her commander from his or her deck face up into the command zone. Then each player shuffles the remaining 99 cards of his or her deck so that the cards are in a random order. Those cards become the player’s library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see there isn't anything about a deck only having a single commander. Also as has been mentioned the Commander decks put out by Wizards usually have 3 options to use for the commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tournaments or leagues can changes these rules, but as Commander is not a format that can be sanctioned the MTR doesn't apply. Thus they are allowed to create their own rules for changing commanders between games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T14:29:52.613" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29143" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:11:16.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on which organization's umbrella you're playing under. If you're playing duplicate bridge in the US, this is the ACBL, and you generally don't have to announce the meaning of the bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For natural 1NT openings, announce the agreed point range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;For non-forcing 1C and 1D openings that do not promise at least 3 cards in the suit, announce &amp;quot;may be 2&amp;quot; (or 1, or 0, per your agreement).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Most conventional openings must be alerted (ie, you say &amp;quot;alert&amp;quot; when your partner makes the bid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the &lt;a href=&quot;https://web2.acbl.org/documentLibrary/play/AlertProcedures2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2021 ACBL alert procedures&lt;/a&gt; for more details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited to add: When it's an opponent's turn to bid or play, you must always truthfully answer questions about your agreements with partner about partner's bids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="32310" LastEditDate="2021-01-04T05:54:20.850" LastActivityDate="2021-01-04T05:54:20.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:25:55.893" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There isn't a universal rule about choosing to change your commander &lt;strong&gt;in between games,&lt;/strong&gt; that I can identify. As long as the card you designate as your commander at the start of the game, per rule 903.6, meets the requirements of matching the color identity of your Commander Deck, it is a valid selection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;903.6. At the start of the game, each player puts his or her commander from his or her deck face up into the command zone. Then each player shuffles the remaining 99 cards of his or her deck so that the cards are in a random order. Those cards become the player’s library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tournaments out in the world could place a restriction upon your deck that the Commander always be the same card. They could also permit changing your commander in between games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Presumably, any legendary creature you put in your Commander Deck that has the same color identity as your designated Commander would be a legal choice to designate as the commander. The next question becomes, why would you want to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T14:25:55.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:32:03.053" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Although there is no explicit rule for it, treating decks with different assigned commanders as different makes the most sense.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The choice of commander is certainly a property of a commander deck because its legality depends on it, but it is a matter of individual tournament rules whether that matters as far as switching commanders between games is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, it is most important to adhere to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;core philosophy of the game mode&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Commander is designed to promote social games of magic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is played in a variety of ways, depending on player preference, but a common vision ties together the global community to help them enjoy a different kind of magic. That vision is predicated on a social contract: a gentleman's agreement which goes beyond these rules to includes a degree of interactivity between players. Players should aim to interact both during the game and before it begins, discussing with other players what they expect/want from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House rules or &amp;quot;fair play&amp;quot; exceptions are always encouraged if they result in more fun for the local community.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So whenever there is uncertainty about a certain rules question specific to the Commander mode, talk to the people in your play group and reach an agreement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, there are hints on how to resolve the question with rules. A Commander-legal deck is required to assign a certain card as its Commander, and if any rules are not covered by the Commander section, the regular rules apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;903&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commander&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.1. In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander. The Commander variant was created and popularized by fans; an independent rules committee maintains additional resources at MTGCommander.net. &lt;strong&gt;The Commander variant uses all the normal rules for a Magic game, with the following additions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;903.3. Each deck has a legendary creature card designated as its commander. This designation is not a characteristic of the object represented by the card; rather, &lt;strong&gt;it is an attribute of the card itself.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A card that is defined as the commander of a deck is different from another card with the same name that isn't a commander. &lt;strong&gt;Therefore, two decks containing otherwise identical cards but different commanders are overall different decks.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For single-game matches, this doesn't matter. You simply declare another card as the new commander between games and play accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &amp;quot;Best of N&amp;quot; matches, or during tournament play, modifications of the deck are not allowed except as outlined in the Sideboard rules or if a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burning%20Wish&quot;&gt;Burning Wish&lt;/a&gt; allows you to. In those situations you could not swap out the commander between games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to consider are the remarks from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;maintainers of the Commander mode&lt;/a&gt;, section &amp;quot;House Rules&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;D. League Play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A League is a regular group of players who maintain the same decks across multiple play sessions. Within a given league, Commander are allocated first-come, first-serve and are preserved between meetings/games. No player may have, in his or her deck, the Commander of any other player in the game; it should be replaced with some other card before the game begins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spirit of this rule seems to be that decks, including Commanders, remain unchanged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T14:48:45.867" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T14:48:45.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29145" CreationDate="2016-03-02T14:34:25.253" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter. Since you can change decks between games, you can change to a deck that's identical except for the choice of Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone talks about the Commander as if it's a property of the deck, including the Comprehensive Rules and the EDH site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;CR: &lt;em&gt;In the Commander variant, each deck is led by a legendary creature designated as that deck’s commander.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDH: &lt;em&gt;Players choose a legendary creature as the &amp;quot;Commander&amp;quot; for their deck.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's not necessarily significant. It's simply the obvious and simple way to explain Commander. There's no explicit mention in the rules that the Commander is a property of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a casual setting, one may change decks between games as often as one desires, so you can obviously play two games with decks that vary only by your choice of Commander. The answer to your question is therefore irrelevant in a casual setting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is only potentially meaningful in a tournament setting, but I can't find anything suggestion that DCI hosts Commander tournaments. That means the the answer to your question is irrelevant as far as Wizard-sanctioned tournaments go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves non-sanctioned tournaments. Since they're non-sanctioned, there's no way to predict their deck registration policy. The answer is unanswerable for those in general.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only tournament I was able to find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.roundtablegamesma.com/#!commander-league/ct27&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this league&lt;/a&gt;. But since they allow you to change deck between games, the answer to your question is irrelevant there too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given all of the above, my answer to your question is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you enter a situation where you must reuse a deck for more than one game, consult with those with which you enter into this situation on this matter. Otherwise, it doesn't matter. Since you can change decks between games, you can change to a deck that's identical except for the choice of Commander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T14:34:25.253" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29173" CreationDate="2016-03-02T15:13:01.190" Score="3" ViewCount="958" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Yu-Gi-Oh!, there exists a monster effect card called &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Morphing_Jar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Morphing Jar&lt;/a&gt;, which has the following effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;FLIP: Both players discard their entire hands, then &lt;strong&gt;draw 5 cards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are more (magic/trap/monster effect) cards that allow the duelist/player to draw a defined number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an extension of my &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/29096/15297&quot;&gt;previous question&lt;/a&gt;, I'm looking for the probabilities of getting any or all five cards of Exodia using the quoted effect above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15297" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:44:16.917" Title="What are the probabilities of getting any or all five cards of Exodia using a specified monster card effect" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|probability|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29140" CreationDate="2016-03-02T15:42:42.653" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This situation is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Seki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seki&lt;/a&gt;.  Scoring depends on the ruleset you're using.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T15:42:42.653" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29143" CreationDate="2016-03-02T16:52:00.040" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As ruds says, it depends not on what system you play, but on where you are (strictly 'whose rules you play by'). But the important thing is &lt;em&gt;any conventional bid must be alerted&lt;/em&gt; **, so that you are not misleading the opponents. If your 1C bid shows an opening hand with strength in clubs. it is not conventional, so need not be alerted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** Unless it is &lt;em&gt;announced&lt;/em&gt;, which is needlessly complex for this question, and doesn't apply here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T16:52:00.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29143" CreationDate="2016-03-02T17:33:31.363" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm going to go just a bit stronger than Ruds here, assuming ACBL rules here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the ACBL alert chart mentions a specific announcement, you &lt;em&gt;must not&lt;/em&gt; announce the meaning of partner's bid unless asked.  That is conveying information to your partner (conveying your interpretation of it), and is explicitly illegal, and may involve a penalty if a director is called.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, if it does call for an &lt;em&gt;alert&lt;/em&gt;, you must only say &quot;Alert&quot; and no other information unless asked.  Again, providing that information also informs your partner.  (This may vary in high-level tournaments, where separate rooms or screens are used.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific announcements - 1NT range and 1c shortness - are marked in blue on your convention card (indicating an announcement is appropriate).  Anything else - saying &quot;Weak&quot; after a weak 2, for example - is inappropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T17:33:31.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29158" CreationDate="2016-03-02T18:58:27.353" Score="2" ViewCount="1607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Back when I collected Pokémon cards, I received a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/2-Player_Starter_Set_(TCG)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2-Player Starter Set&lt;/a&gt;, which included a 1st Edition Holographic Machamp. As far as I know, everybody who got this set received the same 1st Edition Machamp card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was there ever a non-1st Edition version of the starter set Machamp released?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T01:22:15.953" Title="Was there ever a non-1st Edition version of the Machamp found in the 2-player Starter Set?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29157" CreationDate="2016-03-02T19:18:17.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Machamp_(Base_Set_8)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bulbapedia&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A 1st Edition version of this card was included in the 2-Player Starter Set. While an Unlimited Edition version of the Base Set print of this card was never officially released, a Non Holofoil version of this card lacking the 1st Edition stamp was included in the Trainer Deck A, distributed to prototype Pokémon Leagues before the TCG officially launched in North America.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it look like all Foil Machamps from the Base set are 1st Editions (&quot;Unlimited&quot; refers to cards that are not 1st Edition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T01:22:15.953" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T01:22:15.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11609" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:02:42.407" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the back of the score card. If you have a consecutive path of all 45 trains you get a bonus score of 225&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15515" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T22:02:42.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-02T22:34:51.063" Score="3" ViewCount="948" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature that produces tokens is countered, does it still produce tokens?  I.e. if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wurmcoil%20Engine&quot;&gt;Wurmcoil Engine&lt;/a&gt; is countered before it hits the battlefield, does it still produce tokens when it goes into the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15516" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-02T23:44:47.767" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T14:13:39.580" Title="Token creator gets countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29161" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:27:49.493" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A creature card that is countered does not enter the battlefield. Instead it goes from the stack to the graveyard. By that definition, it doesn't die, so it doesn't create the tokens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T23:27:49.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29161" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:50:29.090" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on how the creature creates tokens. In Wurmcoil Engine's case, it creates the tokens when it dies. &quot;Dies&quot; is defined as &quot;goes from the battlefield to the graveyard&quot;, so no, it will not create the tokens, as it was never on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If instead it were a card that said &quot;when [creature name] is put into the graveyard&quot;, then yes, it would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T23:50:29.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29161" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:55:24.900" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on the trigger condition.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wurmcoil Engine triggers when it dies. Dies means something very specific in Magic: the Gathering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Wurmcoil Engine is countered, it goes straight from the stack to the graveyard, bypassing the battlefield entirely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.5a To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the trigger condition were different, like &lt;em&gt;&quot;Whenever Wurmcoil Engine gets countered, [...]&quot;&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;&quot;Whenever Wurmcoil Engine is put into the graveyard, [...]&quot;&lt;/em&gt; then it would trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/5048/autar&quot;&gt;commentor&lt;/a&gt; helped me find a creature that would still give you a token even if it were countered. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDesolation%20Twin%5d&quot;&gt;Desolation Twin&lt;/a&gt; triggers when you cast the spell. Once triggered, the trigger exists independently of the actual spell. Even if Desolation Twin gets countered, the trigger will still resolve, and you will still get a token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T14:13:39.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29161" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:58:54.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key word here is &amp;quot;dies&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Wurmcoil Engine &lt;strong&gt;dies&lt;/strong&gt;, ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That word has a very specific meaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Wurmcoil Engine is countered, it never enters the battlefield, so it can't possibly die, so you don't get tokens. You also wouldn't get tokens if it were exiled, returned to your hand, put on top of your library, or anything else besides going from battlefield to graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrast this with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Desolation%20Twin&quot;&gt;Desolation Twin&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast Desolation Twin, put a 10/10 colorless Eldrazi creature token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since that ability triggers when it's &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt;, you'll get the token even if the Desolation Twin itself is countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-03-02T23:58:54.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29166" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29167" CreationDate="2016-03-02T23:59:27.953" Score="1" ViewCount="794" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the second turn of the game, I angered the Gods when I needed to beg for food. I wasn't up on any of the temple tracks, so moving backwards is supposed to give me negative points. At this point, I was still at zero victory points. Can my total VP drop below zero?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T00:23:09.207" Title="In Tzolk'in, can you be at negative points?" Tags="|tzolkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29166" CreationDate="2016-03-03T00:23:09.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  This is explicitly stated on page 13 of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;On each temple, you score the number of victory points indicated by your current step only. Note that if you are on the bottom step, you will lose vic- tory points. Victory points can go negative.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However it appears from your question you are scoring the -1 when you move onto that space.  This is incorrect as you only score points on the temples during the mid game and endgame food days.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T00:23:09.207" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29171" CreationDate="2016-03-03T04:24:26.680" Score="6" ViewCount="4472" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the game with the 5-6 player extensions :&#xA;If I want to play at 3 or 4 players, do I have to remove additional elements of the game ? or is it common to play at 3 or 4 players for a game designed for 5-6 players ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15517" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T05:03:50.020" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T06:42:35.560" Title="Catan : how to play with extension 5-6 players when we are less than 5?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-03T05:12:14.953" Score="4" ViewCount="2785" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anything in the rules that say you can have your army use vehicles from another faction?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I use Harlequins and I always thought about trying something new and using some Eldar vehicles like a War Walker or a Wraithknight. I figured it would work since Harlequins and Eldars are the same race. Or with human races like a Militarum Tempestus army using a Space Marine Land Raider or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15518" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-03-03T08:05:16.477" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T04:24:18.967" Title="In Warhammer 40k is it possible to have your army use vehicles from other factions?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29168" CreationDate="2016-03-03T06:42:35.560" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 5-6 player extentions contains tiles, number fiches and additional playing pieces so there is enough to play with more players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It contains scenario's for 5 and 6 players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play with 3 or 4 players on a 5 or 6 player board, but then the game becomes too easy. The board is just to big (contains too much resources) to have a challenging game. And yes, you can increase the number of VP needed, but keep in mind the game pieces max out at 13 VP, there are a few cards with extra VP and there is 4 points to collect with the longest road and the largest army. But keep in mind that if you need all these, the game is tied if two players buy a +1 VP card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, you can use pieces of the extention in the 3-4 games. But then you leave some other pieces out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T06:42:35.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29153" CreationDate="2016-03-03T16:54:59.673" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This questions is substantially different from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29096/how-to-calculate-the-probability-to-get-all-cards-of-exodia-the-forbidden-one-b&quot;&gt;first version.&lt;/a&gt; Given the mechanics of Exodia, each of the five parts must be collected in hand. To support that, 0 Exodia cards can be drawn prior to the use of Morphing Jar. In this, the situation is similar to the linked question with the emphasized difference. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Variables&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N = number of items in the population = number of cards in the deck = 40&lt;br&gt;&#xA;k: The number of items in the population that are classified as successes. = number of Exodia Cards in the deck = 5&lt;br&gt;&#xA;n: The number of items in the sample = Variable through experimentation&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x: The number of items in the sample that are classified as successes. = Number of Exodia Cards that must be drawn = &lt;strong&gt;0&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Narrative&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 5 Exodia cards (k) in a deck of 40 cards (N). If the player draws all 5 Cards (x), the player wins the game. The interest of the Question is the probability of drawing all 5 cards &lt;strong&gt;After using Morphing Jar&lt;/strong&gt; and with subsequent draw Phases. The player will see five cards in the initial hand, and an additional card per turn from the draw phase, negating any external effects. From that, over the course of the game, the player will see 5 + number of turns cards in the game (x). 0 Exodia cards can be present in those x cards, because Morphing Jar forces the hand to be discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HPeQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5HPeQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Per the image, the chances of drawing zero Exodia cards decays the longer the games go on. When the player uses Morphing Jar, assuming he or she has drawn zero Exodia cards, he or she has a chance to draw zero to five Exodia cards with the effect. While the math is similar to the linked question, each is a distinct case. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Equation and Additional Variables&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d = the number of cards drawn so far = range (6, 35)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x = the number of Exodia cards drawn with Morphing Jar = range (0, 5)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;n = the number of cards drawn by Morphing Jar = 5  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;h(x; N, n, k) = [ kCx ] [ (N-d)-kCn-x ] / [ (N-d)Cn ]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;where [aCb] = a(a - 1)(a - 2) ... (a - b + 1)/b! = a! / b!(a - b)!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, these individual cases can be evaluated with Excel, to minimize the tedious nature of each combinatoric equation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ur3m6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ur3m6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKXWc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OKXWc.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These images portray the probability the player will draw, zero through five, Exodia cards upon playing Morphing Jar, dependent on how many cards he or she has seen previously. The first graphs the data, the second is the raw data. The sum of the probabilities for each case, for any number of cards previously seen, is 100%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;The Rest of the Set&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After playing Morphing Jar, the process for determining the probability for drawing the Exodia cards not seen is the same as described in the linked question.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d = number of cards drawn so far = range (6, 40)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;e = number of Exodia cards in hand = range (0, 5)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;N = number of items in the population = number of  cards remaining in the deck = 40  - d&lt;br&gt;&#xA;k: The number of items in the population that are classified as successes. = number of Exodia Cards in the deck = 5  - e&lt;br&gt;&#xA;n: The number of items in the sample = Variable through experimentation = range (1, N)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x: The number of items in the sample that are classified as successes. = Number of Exodia Cards that must be drawn = 5 - e &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;h(x; N, n, k) = [ kCx ] [ (N-d)-kCn-x ] / [ (N-d)Cn ]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;where [aCb] = a(a - 1)(a - 2) ... (a - b + 1)/b! = a! / b!(a - b)!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T17:44:16.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-03-03T18:45:40.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/SP3%20(bk)%20single%20pages.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;SAYC&lt;/a&gt;, continuations from Jacoby in other suits are all game forcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, after the transfer is accepted, responder bids a new suit, that is natural and game forcing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, both&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1NT - 2D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2H - 2S&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the inverse&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1NT - 2H&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2S - 3H&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;are game-forcing.  Without any other agreements, there is technically no difference in the system; I would suggest that the choice of transferring to spades first is the weaker option, and transferring to hearts first is the stronger option, as it gives you more room to discuss possible slams.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you are a minimum game forcing hand (10 points opposite 15-17), you should make the weaker choice, and bid 2H to transfer to spades.  Since partner is guaranteed to have a 3 card fit with &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; of these two suits based on your rules for opening 1NT, you don't need to worry about ending up in 3NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it is preferable to have a superior agreement with partner than the basic SAYC agreement, as this hand pattern (5-5 Majors opposite 1NT) is frequently a slam-going hand even with  only 10-12 points, if things line up properly.  You likely can't find that with only Jacoby, while the direct bid of 3S (GF 5-5 Majors) as Aryabhata suggests would be quite helpful in possibly finding that slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-03T18:45:40.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29175" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29214" CreationDate="2016-03-03T19:02:46.293" Score="7" ViewCount="2435" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played quite a few rounds of Splendor over the past few months, but I've almost never come across a situation where a visit from a Noble has made a difference to the outcome of the game, except by luring players into a poor choice of strategy - by the time anyone has the necessary 8-9 developments for a visit, someone else has usually already won. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me that even going for 12 points from developments plus just the last 3 from a Noble is usually not worth the hassle of getting the exact bonuses you need, and if you have to pick up some low-value developments to do this, you're less likely to win if a tie-break ensues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any good way to use Noble visits except as a last resort towards the end of the game? Or is this something that happens more often in games between players who more actively disrupt each other's primary strategies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9777" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T20:25:47.697" Title="When is it worthwhile to aim for visits from Nobles?" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29180" CreationDate="2016-03-04T08:06:06.773" Score="7" ViewCount="821" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was reading an article discussing the nature of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/2016/02/competitive-bridge-cheating-scandal&quot;&gt;cheating in Bridge&lt;/a&gt;, and started wondering: If all pre-arranged signals between partners are forbidden, then how do new bidding conventions come into being?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15530" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T22:05:44.473" Title="How are new conventions established in Contract Bridge?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5215" CreationDate="2016-03-04T08:37:46.027" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is an endgame theory for Go using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surreal_number&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surreal numbers&lt;/a&gt;. The theory is layed out in the book &quot;Mathematical Go: Chilling Gets the Last Point&quot; by Berlekamp and Wolfe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An AI using this theory plays optimal and usually beats a human pro player on the endgame. Reading the book is still fun for an average Go player and teaches you a lot about endgame strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T08:37:46.027" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-03-04T09:20:24.397" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/President_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;President&lt;/a&gt;, a card game (also known by many other names). The game has many variants and it can be played continuously. Each round has one winner (the president) and one loser (the scum).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7503" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T09:20:24.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24560" CreationDate="2016-03-04T10:42:34.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;. This has been clarified in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.alderac.com/smashup/files/2014/11/SU7_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;more recent rules&lt;/a&gt; (pg 9):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Destroy:&lt;/strong&gt; This lets you remove a card that’s in play and put it in its owner’s discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy specifically refers to cards &lt;em&gt;in play&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T10:42:34.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29176" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:06:42.240" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Subject to certain constraints set by the governing authority (the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A.C.B.L. in North America&lt;/a&gt;) mostly to restrict agreements intended primarily to interfere with opponents bidding, a bridge pair is allowed to make any agreement about the meaning of calls (including bids as well as passes, doubles and redoubles) and cards played as long as they present their system (in written form) to their opponents. During the bidding and play, whoever's turn it is can ask the one opponent what the other opponent meant with a bid or a card played. During the bidding, players must alert or announce certain of their partners calls if it has an (unusual) conventional meaning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a certain call is used between partners as having a certain meaning, the pair can be penalised if that call is not in their system description and/or not alerted / properly explained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all information exchanged between partners MUST be conveyed using the calls and the cards played (in the proper way). The cheats as recently discovered in top Bridge are usually using a different method: coughs, a certain positioning of the bidding cards, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is an example of &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/ConventionCard.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the form provided in North America by the A.C.B.L.&lt;/a&gt; for summarizing system agreements: &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJXK6.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KJXK6.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In extended team play the accompanying system notes for a long-established pair such as Eric Rodwell &amp;amp; Jeff Meckstroth can run to several hundred pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T19:30:39.433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T19:30:39.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29169" CreationDate="2016-03-04T13:48:09.540" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes and no&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the current edition, all armies (except unbound armies) are made up of formations.  For example, you might take the Combined Arms Detachment from the basic rules, or any other formation from your codex.  Which army you are &lt;em&gt;using&lt;/em&gt; is basically determined by which faction your warlord is from.  You can take formations from other armies and books, however, as long as you follow the rules for allies, located in the rule book.  (I don't have my book with me to get a page reference).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you could take a Harlequin Combined Arms Detachment and also take an Eldar Warhost, which would give you the ability to take a lot of Eldar stuff, as long as you fulfill the requirements of the formation.  I'm sure there are other Eldar formations that would have less stringent requirements, as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, you could take an unbound army, which has no force org requirements, but also grants none of the special rules associated with formations (no objective secured or warlord trait reroll, for example).  In that case, you can take exactly whatever models you want.  You would still have to follow the rules for allies, though, which can make movement or deployment difficult if you pick armies that do not like each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T13:48:09.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29114" CreationDate="2016-03-04T16:12:55.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Miguel's answer is largely correct. However, there are also rules for handling treasure tokens in an adventure that doesn't use treasure tokens. In &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/Wrath_Ashardalon_RuleBook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the same rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 16, the FAQ tells you how to handle events that refer to treasure tokens when you're not using them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dragon’s Tribute (59):&lt;/strong&gt; If you aren’t using the Treasure Tokens in this adventure, draw 2 Treasure Cards and select the one with the lower gold piece (gp) value. If the values are the same, pick the one that you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hidden Treasure (70):&lt;/strong&gt; If you aren’t using the Treasure Tokens in this adventure and you draw this card, draw and place a Treasure Card on the tile. A Hero that ends his or her Hero Phase on the tile can claim the Treasure Card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:12:55.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29169" CreationDate="2016-03-04T16:53:01.000" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the armies are Battle Brothers you can share transports, for example have Howling Banshees in a Dark Eldar Raider. Or put Harlequins in a Wave Serpent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want Formation benefits (like Objective Secured) you'll need to field 0-1 CADS, plus any number of Allied Detachments or Formations. Many tournaments will require you to field at least one CAD. If it's a friendly game you can field whatever you want, though of course you won't get any benefits, and only Battle Brothers can share transports. If you go that route, do check the allies rules, as you may need to setup different faction units (and will probably want to keep) a certain distance away from each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:53:01.000" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29024" CreationDate="2016-03-04T16:55:23.870" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In previous versions of the rules, the blast would only hit the top floor. RAW in the current version blasts hit every floor. Many tournaments use 6th edition rules. For your local play group I would suggest picking one way and sticking with it, or at least deciding before the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T16:55:23.870" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29185" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:23:29.140" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pixel Tactics&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player tactical battle game using decks of cards. It is set in the same world as &lt;em&gt;BattleCON: War of Indines&lt;/em&gt; and was first published in 2012 by Level 99 Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See also:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/battlecon&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;battlecon&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;battlecon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:00:14.963" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:00:14.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29186" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:23:29.140" Score="0" Body="A two-player tactical battle game using decks of cards. It is set in the same world as BattleCON: War of Indines." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:41:58.937" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:41:58.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29187" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:25:33.917" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Labyrinth&lt;/em&gt; (formerly &lt;em&gt;The aMAZEing Labyrinth&lt;/em&gt;) is a fantasy board game involving players racing to find treasures in an always shifting dungeon. It was first published in 1986 by Ravensburger Spieleverlag GmbH.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:00:09.040" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:00:09.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29188" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-04T20:25:33.917" Score="0" Body="A fantasy board game involving players racing to find treasures in an always shifting dungeon." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T21:00:05.290" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:00:05.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28040" CreationDate="2016-03-04T21:14:45.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is answered in the Fluxx FAQ:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://faq.looneylabs.com/question/272&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://faq.looneylabs.com/question/272&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if you have 3 plays left, you get to draw 3 cards, even if you only have 1 card left in your hand. Of course, now you’ve used up your plays, so you can’t play any of those cards on the current turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="535" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T21:14:45.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29190" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29192" CreationDate="2016-03-04T21:43:43.757" Score="3" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;This seems unusual, but I encountered this last night. I was playing solo with Thanos as the mastermind and &lt;em&gt;Steal the Weaponized Plutonium&lt;/em&gt; as the scheme. This scheme adds a villain group to the villain deck, bringing the deck total to 29: 16 villains, 8 scheme twists, 3 henchmen, 1 master strike, and 1 bystander.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When playing solo, the rules note that Thanos gets -2 attack for every villain in your victory pile. The way I was drawing cards off the villain deck caused me to be able to build up my victory pile very quickly, and I was at 12 villains in my victory pile about halfway through the game. This brought Thanos' attack to 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to fight Thanos in this situation, do I still need to play a hero with any attack value? The alternative seems to be me taking free shots at him for the rest of the game regardless of what I play on my turn, which seems sort of odd. Is there something else that I'm missing about this situation that would lead to a clearer ruling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T14:51:42.580" Title="If Thanos has an attack of 0, do I still need a hero with the attack symbol to fight him?" Tags="|legendary-marvel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29190" CreationDate="2016-03-04T22:25:58.833" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The specific text for the Solo Mode Thanos variant reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When fighting Thanos in Solo Mode and using a Villain Group besides Infinity Gems, Thanos gets -2 (attack symbol) for each Villain in your Victory Pile from that Group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, if you are using the Infinity Gems Villain Group, this rule does not take effect, and his attack is only reduced by Infinity Gems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, note that it does not state &quot;every Villain in your Victory Pile&quot;, it specifically says &quot;each Villain in your Victory Pile from that Group&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This indicates that you have to pick one Villain Group in the Villain Deck to replace Infinity Gems as his weakness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus only one Villain Group in the deck would count against him, and since there are only 8 cards in any given Villain Group, the most that this could reduce his attack by is 16.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T22:25:58.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29193" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-04T23:48:07.983" Score="1" ViewCount="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario-&amp;gt; I have pro-red creature like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burrenton%20forge-tender&quot;&gt;Burrenton forge-tender&lt;/a&gt;.  I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Deflection&quot;&gt;Divine Deflection&lt;/a&gt; for 2, targeting the forgetender and my opponent.  I then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyroclasm&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt;  Does the 2 damage to the forgetender get prevented by Divine Deflection or by the protection from red?  Does my opponent take 2 damage from Divine Deflection?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if the damage would just be redirected, would it work the same?  For example, replace Divine Deflection in the last scenario with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Harm%27s%20Way&quot;&gt;Harm&amp;#39;s Way&lt;/a&gt;.  Is the damage prevented by protection from red or is it redirected?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5975" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-03-04T23:53:12.970" LastActivityDate="2016-03-04T23:53:12.970" Title="Protection and damage prevention spells" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-03-04T23:58:21.967" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29194" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29212" CreationDate="2016-03-05T00:51:20.353" Score="4" ViewCount="683" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have 7 energy tokens, and choose a die face that includes both transmutation and energy tokens.  If I tried to take energy tokens, I would lose any extra energy, because I can't hold more than 7 at once.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I transmute energy that is currently in my reserve, before taking the new tokens into my energy reserve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7519" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T12:59:40.123" Title="Can you transmute before taking energy tokens?" Tags="|seasons|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T01:15:48.417" Score="4" ViewCount="5472" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the situation: I'm the defending player and being attacked for lethal damage.  I block with all my creatures but still would take enough damage to bring me to 0.  Among my blocking creatures are two &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=402101&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zulaport Cutthroat&lt;/a&gt;s.  After combat damage is assigned and I go to less than 0, would I still gain the life from my creatures dying via the Cutthroats?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15536" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T18:30:11.613" Title="Do death triggers still happen if I am at 0 or less life after combat damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23584" CreationDate="2016-03-05T04:27:05.173" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having a Heartless Summoning and impact tremors in play will initiate an infinite damage combo with myr retriever. You will of course need 2x myr retrievers so that when the second one dies returning the first one to hand, continue to play your free myr retrievers due to heartless summoning triggering the key card Impact Tremors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its not flickerwisp combo rather Heartless/Impact. Others have already explained the flicker combo above which needs more creatures to get going, also another card to add to flicker combo is cloudshift and this new erie return?? Something like that, from the Blessed v Cursed duel decks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15537" LastEditorUserId="15537" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T04:51:49.047" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T04:51:49.047" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29197" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29200" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:12:05.333" Score="6" ViewCount="334" Body="&lt;p&gt;This came up in a commander game last week.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards Read:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guile&quot;&gt;Guile&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Guile is put into a graveyard from anywhere, shuffle it into its owner's library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Planar%20Void&quot;&gt;Planar Void&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchantment - Whenever another card is put into a graveyard from anywhere, exile that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we ended up doing was exiling it-was that correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15539" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T00:59:03.873" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T08:49:40.343" Title="If I kill an opponent's Guile while I control a Planar Void will they get to shuffle it back into their library?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29198" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7604" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:18:45.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should always accept a double if your winning expectation from the current situation is 25% or more. You should never accept a double when you have less.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T09:18:45.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29195" CreationDate="2016-03-05T09:27:37.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage is assigned and dealt - no stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your life total is set to (less than) 0, creatures that were dealt lethal damage are moved to the graveyard. Cutthroat;s ability is placed on the stack X times, once for each creature that died.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Before Cutthroat's triggered ability can resolve however, you have already died because &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Life&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;coming to 0 life&lt;/a&gt; or less is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;state-based effect&lt;/a&gt;. Whatever's on the stack doesn't resolve anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T18:30:11.613" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T18:30:11.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29197" CreationDate="2016-03-05T10:27:30.137" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;It depends on who controlled which card and whose turn it is.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both cards trigger on the same event, namely Guile going to the graveyard. Therefore the triggered abilities go on the stack at the same time. When that happens, the &lt;em&gt;active player&lt;/em&gt; (the player whose turn it is) starts putting his or her triggered abilities on the stack, then the other players do the same in turn order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are 6 scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You control Guile and Planar Void:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You choose the order of the triggers, so you decide whether Guile goes to exile or the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your opponent controls Guile and Planar Void:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You control Guile, your opponent controls Planar Void, it is your turn:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guile is exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You control Guile, your opponent controls Planar Void, it is your opponent's turn:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guile is shuffled into the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You control Planar Void, your opponent controls Guile, it is your turn:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guile is shuffled into the library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You control Planar Void, your opponent controls Guile, it is your opponent's turn:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guile is exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T08:49:40.343" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T08:49:40.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29202" CreationDate="2016-03-05T11:36:19.580" Score="7" ViewCount="2453" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens in the following situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponents got the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Painter%27s%20Servant&quot;&gt;Painter&amp;#39;s Servant&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grindstone&quot;&gt;Grindstone&lt;/a&gt; lock going on but I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emrakul%2C%20the%20Aeons%20Torn&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; in my deck that keeps me shuffling my graveyard back into my deck when it gets milled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DO I just keep on shuffling untill the 45 minutes is up and the games end in a draw? How is this situation resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T15:05:36.237" Title="Painter's Servant vs Emrakul" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29201" CreationDate="2016-03-05T12:17:03.757" Score="14" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DO I just keep on shuffling untill the 45 minutes is up and the games end in a draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that you asked this makes me suspect you might have the wrong idea about how Grindstone's milling ability works with Emrakul's reshuffling ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you mill an Emrakul with Grindstone, you don't reshuffle immediately. Instead, you schedule the reshuffling trigger to be put on the stack &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; Grindstone's ability is done resolving - in particular, after your library is empty.&#xA;Then, when Emrakul's reshuffling trigger goes on the stack, both players have to have a chance to respond to it before it resolves.&#xA;After that happens - both players respond, or pass, and then the triggered ability resolves - only &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; do you actually shuffle your graveyard into your library.&#xA;And at this point, Grindstone's milling effect is over and done.&#xA;Nothing else gets milled until your opponent is able to activate Grindstone's ability again, most likely during their next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The net effect of this is that, as long as you have Emrakul in your library, your opponent's Grindstone ability does very little (assuming, as I do throughout this answer, that no other relevant spells or abilities are used). Yes, they can mill your entire library once per turn cycle, but it gets reshuffled right afterwards, before you draw your card at the beginning of your draw step. So you wind up continuing the game pretty much as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, once you draw Emrakul, if it was the only one in your deck, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; Grindstone can mill your entire library. So you should try to win before that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To address the question you probably thought you were asking, if there is a mandatory loop of actions that keep coming back to the same game state, the game ends in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.4. If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw. (See rules 104.4b and 104.4f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, you don't actually have to carry out the loop, as long as all players are satisfied that the loop exists and is, in fact, mandatory.&#xA;So if these cards somehow did create such a loop, you wouldn't keep shuffling for 45 minutes, you and your opponent(s) would just declare the game a draw and move on to the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is the question of whether it counts as the same game state if the ordering of your library is random.&#xA;If I remember correctly, there was once a deck (or at least the idea for a deck) where you would use an infinite combo to repeatedly shuffle your library until whatever card you wanted at the time happened to be on top.&#xA;While this is effectively just stacking the deck, because any ordering you want will &lt;em&gt;eventually&lt;/em&gt; occur with probability 1, I believe the official word as announced by some high-level judges is that you can't just skip the shuffling and stack the relevant cards on top of your deck.&#xA;Similarly, it might be held that reshuffling changes the game state - perhaps depending on whether the positions of any cards were known beforehand.&#xA;But I'll have to leave that to other people to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-03-05T15:05:36.237" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T15:05:36.237" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T13:39:06.687" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can tell by checking sites that older Pokemon cards are most likely not allowed in a tournament setting.  Would that include energy and training cards?  They should seem to be generic and okay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15542" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T21:10:22.640" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T21:10:22.640" Title="Older Pokemon cards" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29205" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29221" CreationDate="2016-03-05T20:00:19.337" Score="2" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;If two opposing forces completely destroy each other at the same initiative step in combat, who is regarded as the first casualty for the purposes of things like first blood?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:15:47.280" Title="First blood on the same initiative step" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29206" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-05T21:24:11.190" Score="4" ViewCount="3651" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are any of the scenarios in Betrayal at House on the Hill suitable for just two players? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm asking as I'd  like to play just with my wife at times,  but the instructions say it requires three people minimum. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T03:51:21.237" LastActivityDate="2019-02-27T15:08:11.073" Title="What Betrayal at House on the Hill scenarios can work with just two players" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29206" CreationDate="2016-03-05T22:58:22.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think any would work well by default, but there are a handful that begin the haunt with removing the betrayer's character. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those can be modified slightly in that the player isn't, then, the betrayer (and isn't removed). Play the traitor's turn as a sort of 'this is what the board does', and keep both players on the board. The game then turns into a players-vs-game game (like Pandemic, etc). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't have the same 'feel' as the main game since there isn't a 'someone will betray us' vibe. Instead it's a 'the house will attack us' game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played something similar once (the player who ended up being the traitor &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; didn't want to be, so we improvised) and it worked out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15544" LastActivityDate="2016-03-05T22:58:22.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29176" CreationDate="2016-03-06T01:21:14.030" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge bidding &quot;dialog,&quot; there are only 15 allowable words: The numbers one through seven, the five suits: spades, hearts, diamonds, clubs, and &quot;no trump&quot; (as one word), pass, double, and redouble.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These 15 words define existing conventions. A partnership is allowed to make up their own convention using these 15 words (but anything beyond that would be an illegal pre-arranged signal), as long as they disclose them in writing before the match, and &quot;alert&quot; their opponents at appropriate times at the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;New&quot; conventions that are widely accepted by many players are established by successful players, such as Jacoby or Stayman, who have conventions named after them. But &quot;anyone&quot; is allowed to have their own private convention (within certain frameworks established by bridge authorities) as long as they are disclosed. Most of these never become &quot;established&quot; conventions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-03-07T22:05:44.473" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T22:05:44.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29217" CreationDate="2016-03-06T05:56:33.813" Score="5" ViewCount="4109" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having only been playing for a bit over a year I am not very knowledgeable on cards outside of standard. I recently got smashed at FNM by a Zada deck which prompted me to look into this for modern (and commander?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking this may involve something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbond&quot;&gt;Arcbond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the one-turn win combination, using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt;, that requires the least number of cards and external effects, in Modern?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15539" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-03-06T14:07:42.987" LastActivityDate="2016-12-21T01:56:45.630" Title="What is the one-turn win combination, using Zada, Hedron Grinder, that requires the least number of cards and external effects, in Modern?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2674" CreationDate="2016-03-06T06:28:41.327" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played TTR Europe with six players several times using an extra set of train pieces from TTR Nordic. We had 45 pieces each and using 3 stations it worked just as well as five players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15545" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T06:28:41.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29194" CreationDate="2016-03-06T12:59:40.123" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No&lt;/strong&gt;, as you have to to receive energy tokens from your crystal before doing anything else. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://en.libellud.com/index.php?option=com_zoo&amp;amp;task=callelement&amp;amp;format=raw&amp;amp;item_id=622&amp;amp;element=66b58ffc-c789-4cef-b9f1-2cb5226ebace&amp;amp;method=download&amp;amp;args%5B0%5D=8acd23046d33559746d5f0baebb8e122&amp;amp;Itemid=57&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2nd edition English rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, p. 8, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution order of the actions of the player’s rounds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following actions on the Seasons dice must always be resolved before performing any other action: drawing a card, &lt;strong&gt;receiving energy tokens or crystals&lt;/strong&gt;, increasing your Summoning Gauge. Once these actions are resolved, the players can perform their other actions, in the order of their choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, you may transmute at anytime and as many times you want during your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T12:59:40.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29204" CreationDate="2016-03-06T19:12:59.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The list of sets legal for tournament play in the 2015-16 season are spelled out here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-news/pokemon-tcg-format-rotation-for-2016/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.pokemon.com/us/pokemon-news/pokemon-tcg-format-rotation-for-2016/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic energy is always allowed.   Special energy depends on the set in which it was released.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokemon allows for older cards that have been reprinted exactly and are currently legal for play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pokegym maintains a handy list that explains which older cards are still legal for play and why&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://pokegym.net/forums/view.php?pg=xpdformat&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://pokegym.net/forums/view.php?pg=xpdformat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11536" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T19:12:59.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29175" CreationDate="2016-03-06T20:25:47.697" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally I'd look to go for Nobles in one of the following situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are 2 or more Nobles with matching colours. E.g. if there's a Noble that requires 4 green and 4 red, and also a Noble that requires 3 green, 3 red and 3 blue then it might be worth picking up the 11 cards (mostly from Level 1) required. If there's also a Noble that requires 4 green and 4 blue then that's 9 points for 12 cards which looks very attractive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are Level 3 cards which match colours on a Noble. E.g. if there's a 4 point card that needs 3 red, 6 green and 3 blue and also a Noble that needs 4 green and 4 blue then I might go for the Noble and the 4-point card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In a 2-player game, there are only 4 tokens of each colour so it can be much harder to buy Level 3 cards. Nobles can be an easier option for 2-player games.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few other thoughts and observations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;unlike cards, Nobles cannot be reserved. On level one there are 8 cards of each colour, so really the only way someone can stop you getting a Noble is if they claim it for themselves first.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's possible to pick up a large number of Level 1 cards very quickly. Once you have a few cards you can pick up Level 1 cards for 1 or 2 tokens, or even for free.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;buying a card costs a turn, a visit from a Noble does not. So you potentially save a turn which can be crucial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if scores are tied at the end of the game, number of cards bought is used as a tie breaker. If you went for Nobles and the other player didn't then you'll almost certainly lose. This does happen occasionally, so it's worth bearing in mind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T20:25:47.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6452" CreationDate="2016-03-06T22:29:36.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the other answers given, I'll offer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Physical board games don't require a computer, or electricity&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be advantageous if you are travelling or camping. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A small board game will be more portable than a laptop computer. (Though perhaps not a smartphone)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A board game will never require electricity, which is good if you are camping in an area without electricity, or at an airport where you can't find a powerpoint. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Board games can be used in areas where computers aren't allowed. eg. high security environments. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T22:29:36.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29206" CreationDate="2016-03-06T22:44:30.903" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest playing with 2 characters each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the haunt starts, the player who controls the traitor hands their non-traitor character over to the other player to control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2016-03-06T22:44:30.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29210" CreationDate="2016-03-07T03:13:44.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only interesting guaranteed (assuming no external effects) one-turn win combination I can find that uses Zada, Hedron Grinder is the Arcbond combo described in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29111/how-do-you-stop-this-combination&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, or some variation of it. Basically, you need the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any creature with Lifelink (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAjani%27s%5d%2b%5bSunstriker%5d&quot;&gt;Ajani&amp;#39;s Sunstriker&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arcbond&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any spell that makes a creature indestructible (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEphemeral%20Shields%5d&quot;&gt;Ephemeral Shields&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anything that deals damage to a creature (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you control the mentioned creatures, and then cast and resolve each of those spells in turn targeting Zada, the result is an arbitrarily large amount of damage dealt to each creature and player, and the combo's controller gaining large amounts of life, until every other player has lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T03:57:39.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29210" CreationDate="2016-03-07T03:29:31.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the most optimum one turn win combination I have identified, using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt;, that is Modern Legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbond&quot;&gt;Arcbond&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Seeker%20of%20the%20Way&quot;&gt;Seeker of the Way&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wild%20Slash&quot;&gt;Wild Slash&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ephemeral%20Shields&quot;&gt;Ephemeral Shields&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deck can be Red White, minimizing color burden.&#xA;With Seeker of the Way and Zada in play and untapped, cast Arcbound, targeting Zada; Prowess trigger, Seeker of the Way has Lifelink. Tap Zada and Seeker of the Way for the convoke cost of Ephemeral Shields, targeting Zada; Prowess Trigger. Cast Wild Slash targeting Zada; Ferocious conditional satisfied, damage can't be prevented.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One turn win can be achieved with 4 open mana sources on turn five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T03:29:31.470" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2016-03-07T12:16:46.403" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I realize I'm late to the party but check out &lt;a href=&quot;https://shpeely.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shpeely.com&lt;/a&gt;. It allows to track all your games and creates statistics for each game and player. Also it has a scoring system that allows you to track your performance &lt;em&gt;across&lt;/em&gt; games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15552" LastActivityDate="2016-03-07T12:16:46.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29205" CreationDate="2016-03-07T15:40:17.503" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you have two simultaneous effects that need an order to resolve, the active player gets to decide the order.  So the player whose turn it was would probably choose themselves to receive the point for &lt;strong&gt;First Blood&lt;/strong&gt; (though they could choose which either player to get it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively if it's a friendly game you and your opponent might agree that both players score &lt;strong&gt;First Blood&lt;/strong&gt;, or that neither player got it. Or even that it hasn't been scored yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said there are several variants of &lt;strong&gt;First Blood&lt;/strong&gt; out there since it almost always goes to the first player. &lt;strong&gt;Last Blood&lt;/strong&gt; is fairly popular, where to score it you have to kill a unit and then not lose a unit on the opponent's turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question has given an alternative idea which I plan on implementing when I can get my opponent's permission. I'm going to make a &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Blood Trophy&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; and the first unit to kill another earns the Trophy. However if a unit kills the unit that controls the trophy, they gain the trophy. Whichever army controls the trophy at the end of the gain gets a victory point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T20:15:47.280" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T20:15:47.280" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29223" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-07T19:37:27.483" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found a white die in our box of board games and I don't know what game it belongs to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has six sides with white numbers on them; 1 - 6, one number to a side. Each number has an orange circle around it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what game this die might belong to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15558" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T12:36:09.300" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T12:36:09.300" Title="Board game dice-unrecognized" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-03-08T22:22:30.020" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29273" CreationDate="2016-03-07T21:13:51.047" Score="3" ViewCount="148" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to speed up turns and overall gameplay in Starfarers of Catan without reducing victory point milestones. Is it feasible to play the game without event cards if the black ball is given a value of 2? This would reduce emphasis on cannons (and hence, sideline pirate lairs until near the end of the game-probably), but would there be any perceived detriment to gameplay? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastEditorUserId="13919" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T23:22:11.083" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T23:22:11.083" Title="Starfarers of Catan game mechanics" Tags="|starfarers-of-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29227" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:17:17.750" Score="1" ViewCount="10831" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conduit%20of%20Ruin&quot;&gt;Conduit of Ruin&lt;/a&gt; or any other card states that when it is cast, does this mean that it can trigger when it returns from the battlefield? Such as Conduit of ruin is in the graveyard, I return it to the battlefield from the graveyard. Does the first ability trigger and allow me to search my library for an eldrazi card 7 or more to place on top of my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15565" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T12:07:09.350" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T18:22:48.817" Title="Is the cast keyword triggered from the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29227" CreationDate="2016-03-08T09:39:16.383" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are returning the Conduit from the graveyard straight to the battelfield as a result of another spell or ability (such as Reanimate), then it will not trigger, as 'when you cast' triggers are not the same as 'when this enters the battlefield' triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, you played a card that specifically allows you to cast a card from your graveyard (such as Havengul Lich), then it would trigger, as you are actually casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T09:39:16.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29229" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29140" CreationDate="2016-03-08T10:22:46.107" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;As TimK pointed out, the situation &lt;strong&gt;could be but may not be&lt;/strong&gt; a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Seki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seki&lt;/a&gt; but without a diagram to show to us, it's not easy for us to guess what happened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Seki&lt;/strong&gt; : no one die, everyone live&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1&#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | X . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X . O X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | X X O X . . . X . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | O O X X . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O X X . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . O . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some patterns may look like a Seki but can be a simple &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?BulkyFive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bulky Five&lt;/a&gt; for example. In this case, even if both opponents can attari it is not a seki.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bulky-five&lt;/strong&gt; : Black dies after capturing because he cannot make two eyes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#wAykXy4O:0,28&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this variation on eidgogo&lt;/a&gt; to explain why the bulky five is dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1   &#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . O X . O . X O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X . . X X O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X X O O . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O O O O . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a &lt;strong&gt;Bent-three&lt;/strong&gt; : Black dies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$cm1   &#xA;$$ +---------------------------------------+&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X X O . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X O . X O . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X . X X O . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O X X X O O . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ | . . O O O O O . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T17:15:15.640" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T17:15:15.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29227" CreationDate="2016-03-08T10:31:08.117" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, &amp;quot;casting&amp;quot; a spell has a more specific meaning&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does &lt;em&gt;casting&lt;/em&gt; mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect.  [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, you are only allowed to cast spells from your hand, unless a card says otherwise. There are cards that allow casting spells from somewhere other than the hand, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bring%20to%20Light&quot;&gt;Bring to Light&lt;/a&gt; (casting from exile), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Descendants%27%20Path&quot;&gt;Descendants&amp;#39; Path&lt;/a&gt; (casting from library), or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karador%2C%20Ghost%20Chieftain&quot;&gt;Karador, Ghost Chieftain&lt;/a&gt; (casting from graveyard). The Commander game variant allows you to cast your commander from the Command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell or ability with a reanimation effect such as the namesake &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reanimate&quot;&gt;Reanimate&lt;/a&gt; never counts as casting the reanimated creature itself. It is simply an effect of that spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-03-08T11:21:56.157" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T11:21:56.157" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27806" CreationDate="2016-03-08T11:20:27.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could this be &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1748/question-scruples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;A Question of Scruples&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt;, which I remember being popular in the mid '90s indeed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player is dealt five (yellow) cards with moral dilemmas, along with a single red card with an answer on it — either Yes, No, or Depends.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;They must then ask the question on one of their five cards to a player who is most likely to give the answer on their answer card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the answers match, both the question and the answer card are discarded and a new answer card is drawn (but not a new question card), otherwise both a new question and a new answer card are drawn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The player to first empty their hand (of question cards) wins, so there are no tokens to move on a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read more on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1748/question-scruples&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt; or on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scruples_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6352" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2018-01-24T15:30:14.307" LastActivityDate="2018-01-24T15:30:14.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29232" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8485" CreationDate="2016-03-08T12:48:38.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers point out the return on investment of holding the utilities, but I would argue that their value is in &lt;strong&gt;trading&lt;/strong&gt;, which is more subjective as it depends on the players involved rather than pure mathematics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trading for a higher value property is obviously good for you. My opponents often swap a train station for a utility, which is higher value and landed on more frequently, as well as having a higher mortgage value&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you can swap so that you have a housing monopoly and your opponent gets the utility monopoly, then they may feel it's a fair trade (i.e. you both get a monopoly), but you with the housing monopoly have better long term prospects, as you can develop them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As mentioned in the other answers, the utilities pay for themselves quite quickly, so mortgaging a utility can be a useful way to free up funds, e.g. to buy houses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T12:48:38.257" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29227" CreationDate="2016-03-08T18:22:48.817" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &quot;When it is cast&quot; means &quot;when the cast keyword action is performed to it&quot;. To cast something involves putting it on the stack, paying costs and making some choices. It has absolutely nothing to do with the battlefield, and even less with returning (putting) on the battlefield (which is an unrelated keyword action).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-03-08T18:22:48.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29323" CreationDate="2016-03-09T06:16:39.700" Score="0" ViewCount="102" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I'm trying to determine what happens to modified cards when the Continuous card in question is destroyed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Yu-Gi-Oh Wikia;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;Continuous Monster Effects (Japanese: 永続効果 Eizoku Kōka) are a type of monster effect that is active as long as the monster is face-up on the field (although some don't have any effect until certain requirements are met), and don't disappear until the monster is no longer face-up on the field.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Which monster? The monster that has the effect or the monster that affected it?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming the former.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Example card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;NIGHTMARE PENGUIN&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Description: &lt;code&gt;All face-up WATER monsters you control gain 200 ATK. When this card is flipped face-up: Target 1 card your opponent controls; return that target to the hand.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;What happens to the other monsters when this card is destroyed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that when this card is destroyed, the monsters that were modified by this card would reset or be negated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text is rather unclear about this and only refers to &quot;effects&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Is a card modification a type of &quot;effect&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7309" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T10:18:22.750" Title="Are card modifications from Continuous cards thought of as &quot;effects&quot; - what happens to them?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29305" CreationDate="2016-03-09T08:50:02.537" Score="9" ViewCount="775" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today, the computer program &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AlphaGo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;AlphaGo&lt;/a&gt; from Google won against the Go world champion &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lee_Sedol&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lee Sedol&lt;/a&gt;. I read that it won by resignation. If I understand correctly, it means that Lee realized he could not win and accepted his defeat without ending the game.&#xA;My question is, by how many point AlphaGo would have won approximately if Lee had fought until the end?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15572" LastEditorUserId="60" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T14:36:33.560" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T20:15:32.867" Title="By how many points did alphago win against Lee Se-dol?" Tags="|go|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29238" CreationDate="2016-03-09T10:35:45.880" Score="1" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are plenty of cards, such as cards with &lt;em&gt;Sunburst&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Converge&lt;/em&gt; and most of &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22was%20spent%20to%20cast%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; cards, which care about the colors of mana spent &lt;em&gt;on themselves&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nix&quot;&gt;Nix&lt;/a&gt; cares about whether or not &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; mana was spent on its target, but doesn't care about what color(s) it was.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cards that care about &lt;em&gt;what color(s)&lt;/em&gt; of mana&#xA;were spent on something &lt;em&gt;other than the card which cares&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a concrete example, suppose I tapped a Mountain and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20Garden&quot;&gt;Temple Garden&lt;/a&gt; to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Roast&quot;&gt;Roast&lt;/a&gt;. Can it ever matter whether the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20Garden&quot;&gt;Temple Garden&lt;/a&gt; was tapped for G or W, i.e. whether Roast was cast for GR or WR?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user13741" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-03-09T19:42:27.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T19:42:27.843" Title="Does any cards care about the color of mana spent on other spells/abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2016-03-09T13:26:26.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Probably not what you are looking for but in a way it might fit the description.&#xA;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusionary%20Mask&quot;&gt;Illusionary Mask&lt;/a&gt; is used to cast a creature then that creature spell cares about what colors are used on the Mask's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise I don't think anything else comes even remotely close, but of course it's very hard to prove that something doesn't exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, i searched for cards that either had the word &amp;quot;spend&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;spent&amp;quot; in the text and checked them one by one, because I think that if such a card existed it should have one of those words&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T13:26:26.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:32:51.430" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Addressing specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Can it ever matter whether the Temple Garden was tapped for G or W?&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because that is substantively different from:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cards that care about what color(s) of mana were spent on something other than the card which cares?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, there are cards that cares about the mana a source produces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gauntlet%20of%20Power&quot;&gt;Gauntlet of Power&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Caged%20Sun&quot;&gt;Caged Sun&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T14:32:51.430" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29241" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2016-03-09T14:41:04.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what you mean by &quot;care&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are abilities that remember what colors of mana were spent to activate them, such as the abilities of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIllusionary%20Mask%5d&quot;&gt;Illusionary Mask&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIce%20Cauldron%5d&quot;&gt;Ice Cauldron&lt;/a&gt; (credit to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/29238/6692&quot;&gt;this answer&lt;/a&gt; and its comments).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is at least one spell allows you to cast another spell based on the number of colors used to cast it: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBring%20to%20Light%5d&quot;&gt;Bring to Light&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also indirect effects. Although things like Sunburst only directly affect the card with Sunburst, other spells could depend on attributes of the Sunburst card which in turn depend on the color(s) of mana spent to cast it. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Situation A&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArcbound%20Wanderer%5d&quot;&gt;Arcbound Wanderer&lt;/a&gt; for {W}{U}{B}{R}{G}{G}. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDevour%20Flesh%5d&quot;&gt;Devour Flesh&lt;/a&gt;, targeting yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You gain 5 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Situation B&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cast Arcbound Wanderer for {G}{G}{G}{G}{G}{G}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Cast Devour Flesh, targeting yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You gain 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are zero spells currently in existence that do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;If you/the controller of the spell spent [color] to cast [some other spell], [effect].&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Whenevever you cast a spell, if you spent [color] to cast it, [effect.]&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T19:22:18.370" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29242" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29237" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:28:14.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are also cycles in Eventide (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Batwing%20Brume&quot;&gt;Batwing Brume&lt;/a&gt;) and the original Ravnica block (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Azorius%20Herald&quot;&gt;Azorius Herald&lt;/a&gt;) that care about using specific colors of mana to cast spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T15:28:14.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5623" CreationDate="2016-03-09T15:58:50.457" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;AlphaGo&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there is AlphaGo by Deep Mind, a company recently bought by Google playing currently a match against 9p Lee Sedol. It is the Deep Blue of Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: The final result of the match of five games was AlphaGo 4 – Lee Sedol 1. This confirms the former conjecture: AlphaGo is the Deep Blue of Go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="11703" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T10:22:43.027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T10:22:43.027" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18119" CreationDate="2016-03-09T18:05:03.307" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I look at it, you have one path in and out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you go from Frankfurt to Brest, you travel East/West through Paris. To travel to Madrid would require a South exit, so is not allowed.&#xA;Brest to Madrid would have you coming into Paris but on another route and not from Frankfurt, so that is not a valid scoring route. Your logic is wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you did say you required a way to convince &lt;em&gt;others&lt;/em&gt; that it is valid, so...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact is, you don't need a train station to get from Frankfurt to Brest. It is a complete route. You are only &quot;invoking&quot; the train station to achieve the Brest to Madrid route. One route = one way in and out, QED. ;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15580" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T18:05:03.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-03-09T22:35:10.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic: the Gathering has 3 end states for a player: win, lose, and draw. With certain optional rules, a game can end with some players winning, some players losing, and some players drawing. In particular, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Limited_range_of_influence_option&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Limited Range of Influence Option&lt;/a&gt; has a clause that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the effect of a spell or ability states that the game is a draw, the game is a draw for that spell or ability’s controller and all players within his or her range of influence. They leave the game. All remaining players continue to play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if a Magic game with at least 5 people is playing with a range of influence of 1, and a player plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Divine%20Intervention&quot;&gt;Divine Intervention&lt;/a&gt;, when its last ability triggers, the game will end in a draw for that player and the player to either side. The other players will continue to play until (in most cases) one wins and the rest lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T22:35:10.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28345" CreationDate="2016-03-09T22:50:58.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main purposes to a scene in the game and while what happens when a scene ends varies based on the mission the basics are the same. In the case of an extraction you have a set round limit instead of a number of scenes to complete. In this case the scene end does two things, first is it heals all runners and the client, second is to provide reset of certain abilities. This is in addition to the normal addition of new obstacles. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.shadowruntabletop.com/wp-content/uploads/CAT27700_Crossfire_Full%20Rules.pdf?c1abe8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most Missions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Are divided into “Scenes” with small rewards, breaks,&#xA;  or changes of play mode between Scenes. Each Mission&#xA;  sheet will describe what happens during a Scene&#xA;  and when a Scene ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some upgrades are usable once per Scene. Once used&#xA;  during a Scene within a Mission, they can’t be used&#xA;  again during that same Scene. When a Mission changes&#xA;  from one Scene to the next, these abilities become&#xA;  available for use again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T22:50:58.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-03-09T23:15:50.087" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clue (or Cluedo) is close to your question, especially as we play it at my house.  At the end of the game there are three categories of players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;at most 1 winner (the person who solves the puzzle)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;possibly everyone can lose (people who declare they've solved the puzzle, but have an incorrect solution.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;people who haven't attempted to guess the solution.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most people would consider the &quot;haven't guessed a solution&quot; to be a loss.  But not in our house.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-09T23:15:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T02:04:28.870" Score="5" ViewCount="21661" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is played with a standard 52 card deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start by dealing cards to each player plus a dummy hand next to the dealer and the last card goes into the middle.&#xA;Then three pots are made up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pot one is first person to get a three card run.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pot two is the queen pot of you play the queen that matches the card suit in the middle at the end you claim the pot.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pot three is first person to be out of cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dealer looks at his hand and decides if they want to keep it or change to the dummy hand. This continues around the table until someone accepts the dummy hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game then starts by someone playing an ace but I can't remember which one, then the game continues in suit order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's roughly what I remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15583" LastEditorUserId="15583" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T11:38:08.577" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T09:29:50.900" Title="Does anyone know the name of this card game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29250" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T02:11:30.707" Score="2" ViewCount="8908" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have just started and you draw a move backwards 4 card, on your next turn you get a move forward 12. You have no other pawns out to move. Do you have to move The original pawn (the one you backed up 4) forward or can you refuse the move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15584" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T21:10:59.777" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T21:10:59.777" Title="What happens if your only pawn can't move as many spaces as required?" Tags="|sorry|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-14T15:54:14.120" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29250" CreationDate="2016-03-10T04:40:42.833" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you move backwards from start, you can go into your home.  You'd need to get as many spaces or less as it is from that space to the home spot.  Otherwise you'd forfeit your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15585" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T04:40:42.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29252" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29113" CreationDate="2016-03-10T10:52:50.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is too long for a comment but it could be of interest to somebody.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not play the SAYC but, with my partners, what we use for describing a 5-5 distribution after the partner open 1 NT is a bid at the level of 5 in the shortest suit (for H and S) or at the level of 4 (for C and D).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 NT - pass - 5 C means 5 H + 5 S  (void or singleton in C)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 NT - pass - 5 D means 5 H + 5 S (void or singleton in D)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 NT - pass - 4 H means 5 C + 5 D  (void or singleton in H)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 NT - pass - 4 S means 5 C + 5 D  (void or singleton in S)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies no hope for a slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this convention for almost 30 years, we think it is very precise and we have good results with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6293" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T10:52:50.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29250" CreationDate="2016-03-10T10:54:58.357" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can move backwards from Start to just outside the safety zone, you can't move forward past the safety zone without going toward Home. Since a 12 is too much to land you in Home, and you can't move forward past Start, you must forfeit your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="12631" LastEditDate="2016-03-10T11:22:18.623" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T11:22:18.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="42398" CreationDate="2016-03-10T17:17:54.817" Score="9" ViewCount="9265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been hearing about the double-deck version of solitaire, played by Winston Churchill, that's way harder than normal solitaire. I can't seem to find the rules posted anywhere. Anyone know the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched a video showing the iOS game which is useless to me since I don't use iOS and I'd rather play card games with actual cards. I was able to figure out some of the rules but considering the fact that I beat it the first time I played my make-shift version of it I suspect I was not playing correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="204" LastActivityDate="2020-05-23T20:33:23.340" Title="Rules for Churchill Solitaire?" Tags="|solitaire|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29254" CreationDate="2016-03-10T19:01:57.637" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played this yet, but from a &lt;a href=&quot;http://kotaku.com/donald-rumsfelds-solitaire-game-puts-futility-at-your-f-1756000473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;review&lt;/a&gt; the rules are as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Initial Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need two standard decks of cards, so 104 cards in total.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal 6 cards face-up to the top left of the play area (The Devil's Six)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Deal out 10 columns of cards: One face up card in the first column, one facedown followed by one face up card in the second, two facedown followed by one face up in the third, three facedown followed by one face up in the fourth, four facedown followed by one face up in the fifth, then the sixth like the fifth, etc, until the tenth like the first, forming an upside down triangle as shown below.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGL2Y.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGL2Y.png&quot; alt=&quot;Churchill&amp;#39;s Solitaire&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How To Play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play is the same as normal solitaire with the following differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards in the Devil's Six can only be moved to the Victory Row, not the main play area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you run out of moves, deal an extra card face-up on top of each column.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastEditorUserId="21309" LastEditDate="2018-04-22T00:10:27.543" LastActivityDate="2018-04-22T00:10:27.543" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29250" CreationDate="2016-03-10T19:03:32.740" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: That man cannot be moved due to being too close to home and, if no other man can be moved, your turn is forfeit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless the card text specifically states otherwise, you &lt;strong&gt;MUST&lt;/strong&gt; perform the action indicated by the card if possible. You'll notice that all cards except 11 begin with the word &lt;strong&gt;MUST&lt;/strong&gt;. The following cards have some implications with regards to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2 card's DRAW AGAIN happens regardless of if you could move any man.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 7 card can only be used if you either one man that can move 7 or two men that can move a combined 7 spaces. If you have one man that's 2 spaces away from HOME and your only other man is 3 spaces away from HOME, your move is forfeit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 10 card must be used if you have any man not on the HOME or START spaces on the board. If no man can be moved 10 spaces forward, you are required to move one man back one space if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 11 card actually has a voluntary turn forfeit option as part of the alternate action. If none of your men can move 11 spaces forward and you do not want to exchange a margin man (a man not in your start or safety zone) with another player's margin man, you are not required to use the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Sorry card is mandatory so long as any other player has a margin man and you have one man in start. Otherwise, you forfeit your turn automatically.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation where your first four card draws were a 2, a 4, a 12, and a 10, the following would happen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 2 would start a man out and immediately give you another turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The 4 would move that man backwards 4 spaces, to the corner space.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provided that man is still in the corner (the scenario outlined by Barb), the 12 &lt;strong&gt;WOULD BE FORFEIT&lt;/strong&gt; because the man is 8 spaces away from HOME and no other man can move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Provided the man is still in the corner, the 10 would move the man back one space because the man cannot be moved 10 spaces forward and all other men are on start.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T19:03:32.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29257" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-10T19:17:07.190" Score="5" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;A number of board games survive to the present day from quite ancient times in the Old World: mancala, go, even the physical components of the game of Ur survived (though we don't know the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any board games survive from the New World that predate Columbus?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1888" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T16:53:13.783" Title="Do any precolumbian board games survive?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5599" CreationDate="2016-03-10T19:58:22.223" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Expert&quot; begins at 1 dan for amateurs. Then there's a second, higher level of expertise, 2 dan. One level above that is 3 dan, which is master. Then there are increasing levels of mastership rising to 4, 5, 6, and 7 dan. In recent decades, because of the popularity and training of go for amateurs, some of them became one to two levels stronger than 7 dan, call them 8 and 9 dan. A 9 dan amateur is almost as strong as a pro. All of these is based on being one stone stronger than the previous level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then the question is why do kyu ranks work in reverse order. A kyu player is a &quot;non expert&quot; player by definition. Then the ranks are based on &quot;how far are they from expert?&quot; A 1 kyu needs to rise only one level (stone) to become an expert, a 30 kyu, is 30 levels below. Think of kyu ranks as &quot;minus&quot; numbers (they're entered that way in the ratings computer), with 1 kyu being less &quot;minus&quot; than say, 10 kyu.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-03-10T19:58:22.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29261" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27826" CreationDate="2016-03-11T05:54:18.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Effects from the &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh!&lt;/em&gt; anime do not apply to the card game, especially not in a legal tournament. You can only use the text that is actually on the card (and any modifications due to errata or official rulings).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, in a friendly game, you and your opponent are welcome use those affects if you agree. If you want to play that way, nothing is stopping you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-21T20:15:46.353" LastActivityDate="2018-03-21T20:15:46.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29263" CreationDate="2016-03-11T08:19:25.483" Score="1" ViewCount="795" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a game tonight with &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Storyteller&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Storyteller&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Alms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alms&lt;/a&gt;. Storyteller says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+1 Action&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  +1 Coin  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play up to 3 Treasures from your hand. Pay all your coin; +1 Card per coin paid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alms is an event that costs 0 coin. It says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn: If you have no Treasures in play, gain a card costing up to 4 coins. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a turn where I played the three coppers in my hand to get +4 cards, after which I had no more treasure cards in hand but multiple buys. I was going to buy two silvers with Alms, but the other players said I couldn't because of the treasures I had paid to draw cards with Storyteller. I argued that those cards weren't in play since I used them. &lt;strong&gt;Are treasure cards spent by Storyteller still in play?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2024-03-13T22:49:29.020" Title="Are treasure cards spent by Storyteller still in play?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-adventures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29262" CreationDate="2016-03-11T08:55:31.433" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, treasure cards stay in play. You may view the process as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your action phase, you play any action cards (or treasure cards, as well with the help of the Black Market) that generate Coins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play the Storyteller; you gain +1 Action and +$1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may play now up to 3 treasure cards from your hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any total money that you have generated and have available so far (as you might have spent some with the Black Market), is lost; you draw that many cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any subsequent money you generate is not lost and may be spent in the Buy Phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the Storyteller card explicitly mentions that you have to &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;pay all your coins&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot;, it does not mention anything about any card leaving play. A card only leaves play during the Clean-Up phase (base game rulebook) or when a card effect explicitly says so (e.g., the Mint from the Prosperity expansion, or the Duration cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the Adventures rulebook (p.15) makes it crystal clear that &amp;quot;spent&amp;quot; treasure cards stay in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can track that the Treasures have been &amp;quot;spent&amp;quot; by putting them under the Storyteller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if for some reason you have $5 and two buys, it is perfectly legal to buy a Mint for $5, trash all your treasure cards in play because the Mint says so, and then buy the Alms event, gaining a card costing up to $4. But not with the Storyteller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastEditorUserId="30400" LastEditDate="2024-03-13T22:49:29.020" LastActivityDate="2024-03-13T22:49:29.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29264" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-11T11:20:13.923" Score="9" ViewCount="16636" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the dice configuration for the English Boggle:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPmxv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/fPmxv.png&quot; alt=&quot;English 16 dice version&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other variants and discussions concerning letter distributions for English can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bananagrammer.com/2013/10/the-boggle-cube-redesign-and-its-effect.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Boggle cube redesign and its effect on the difficulty of Boggle&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://everything2.com/title/Boggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Boggle - Everything2.com&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/300883/letter-distribution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Letter Distribution | BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk%3aBoggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Talk:Boggle&lt;/a&gt; (Wikipedia).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am interested in the &lt;strong&gt;16 dice&lt;/strong&gt; configurations for also other languages (Spanish in particular) and I am unable to find it anywhere online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Versions I have managed to find so far:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.deskovehry.info/pravidla/boggle.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Czech&lt;/strong&gt; 16 dice version&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;English&lt;/strong&gt; 25 dice version:&lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3h55.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/F3h55.png&quot; alt=&quot;English 25 dice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Spanish&lt;/strong&gt; 25 dice version:&lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AAFH4.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AAFH4.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spanish 25 dice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Italian&lt;/strong&gt; 25 dice version:&lt;br&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzxhQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EzxhQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Italian 25 dice&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15601" LastEditorUserId="19473" LastEditDate="2020-12-26T20:44:15.527" LastActivityDate="2022-01-06T12:01:52.807" Title="Boggle: What is the dice configuration for Boggle in various languages?" Tags="|boggle|" AnswerCount="8" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29265" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29410" CreationDate="2016-03-11T13:20:04.287" Score="9" ViewCount="3226" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about how to interpret the rules regarding infinity. In particular, the rules speak of mandatory actions, from which I infer that there are also non-mandatory actions. How do I tell which are which? Are there such things as non-actions? If so, how do I tell them apart from actions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to understand the terms, concepts and ways of applying the rules. For that purpose, here are some concrete scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/strong&gt;: Each player controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; enchanted with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pacifism&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; and has the remaining 58 cards exiled (no hand, no library, nothing else in play or graveyard). My intuition suggests this is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the complete game state graph is a simple cycle whose length is the number turns per round (here equal to the number of players, two) times the number of times players pass priority in a do-nothing turn (the number of players times the number of steps in which players have priority, which is always the same).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since no player can do anything other than pass priority, the way I can get to a draw by reading the rules is if this is a sequence of only mandatory actions.  An open question: is this an empty sequence of actions, meaning passing priority is a non-action, or is it a sequence of some positive number of mandatory actions, all of them being passing priority?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt;: Like scenario 1, but player 1 also has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt; in hand. Player 2 knows this, thanks to e.g. a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the state graph is two parallel cycles, with an edge from one to the other---but not in the other direction---whenever player 1 could cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;, which would go to his graveyard since he doesn't have a land to discard. The game is initially somewhere in that loop which can reach the other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No state in the state graph is won or lost for either player, so I think the game should be a draw. The only way to get there, AFAICT, is if the current &amp;quot;loop&amp;quot; is one of only mandatory actions. But passing when you could play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt; could not be mandatory in the sense of you not being allowed to play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;---could it?! But neither could playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt; be mandatory, since you're allowed to not play the cards you have in hand. Hence I believe that passing priority is a non-action, and scenario 1 consists of an empty sequence of mandatory actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/strong&gt;: Like scenario 1, but replace both copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pacifism&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloak%20of%20Mists&quot;&gt;Cloak of Mists&lt;/a&gt; and give each player an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Energy%20Field&quot;&gt;Energy Field&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same empty loop of mandatory actions from scenario 1 still exists. A player could also choose to attack (not mandatory). This would tap their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;, but not change any life total, thanks to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Energy%20Field&quot;&gt;Energy Field&lt;/a&gt;.  The non-trivial part of the state space is the tapped/untapped state of each &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;, with a lot of passing of priority to flip back and forth between those four state( group)s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does rule 716.3 take effect here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens, the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&#xA;Example: In a two-player game, the active player controls a creature with the ability &amp;quot;{0}: [This creature] gains flying,&amp;quot; the nonactive player controls a permanent with the ability &amp;quot;{0}: Target creature loses flying,&amp;quot; and nothing in the game cares how many times an ability has been activated. Say the active player activates his creature's ability, it resolves, then the nonactive player activates her permanent's ability targeting that creature, and it resolves. This returns the game to a game state it was at before. The active player must make a different game choice (in other words, anything other than activating that creature's ability again). The creature doesn't have flying. Note that the nonactive player could have prevented the fragmented loop simply by not activating her permanent's ability, in which case the creature would have had flying. The nonactive player always has the final choice and is therefore able to determine whether the creature has flying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, what are its implications? Here is one interpretation of the rule: if a player could make a choice that would bring the game into a state in which it has been before, that player may not make that choice. But since the state space is finite in this scenario, sooner or later there will be a game state in which a player is not allowed to do anything: they are neither allowed to pass priority, nor &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; pass priority, all (other?) actions having been forbidden by my interpretation of this rule. The game can not continue from such a state, but neither is the outcome well-defined.  Hence I think my interpretation is wrong. But I don't know how else to interpret it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it only apply to loops that do not cross turn boundaries?  If so, how is this situation resolved?  Does the loop of mandatory actions rule apply, making the game a draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Energy%20Field&quot;&gt;Energy Field&lt;/a&gt; matter? Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloak%20of%20Mists&quot;&gt;Cloak of Mists&lt;/a&gt;? There are ten combinations: three quantities of each permanent, 0 or 1 or 2, and in case of 1 and 1, whether they are controlled by the same player or not. (Maybe times two, depending on whose turn it is when we enter this scenario for the first time.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 4&lt;/strong&gt;: players control only &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Platinum%20Angel&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;.  Both players have one million life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same questions as scenario 3. Is a player ever forced to block (and lose)?  Assume it is the untap step of player 1's turn and both angels are untapped.  Do the life totals matter? Does it change if they're 1? If they're -1? If one is positive and one negative?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 5&lt;/strong&gt;: like scenario 4, but player 1 also controls a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=409652&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Swamp&lt;/a&gt; and has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt; in hand, known via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gitaxian%20Probe&quot;&gt;Gitaxian Probe&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same questions as the previous scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 6&lt;/strong&gt;: like scenario 5, but player 1 has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vendetta&quot;&gt;Vendetta&lt;/a&gt; in hand instead of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Diamond&quot;&gt;Mox Diamond&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same questions as the previous scenario. In particular: is it a drawn game immediately, even though player 1 could force a win if play continued? That would seem bizarre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the answers in scenario 5 and 6 depend on the card in hand being known?  If so, how?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly at what scenario does it stop being a draw and become won for either player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 7 (&amp;quot;Here be dragons&amp;quot;):&lt;/strong&gt; both players have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worldgorger%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Worldgorger Dragon&lt;/a&gt; in their graveyard. Player 1 has an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Dead&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; on the stack, targeting his own Worldgorger Dragon. All 117 other cards are exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Dead&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt; re-enters play, player 1 must choose a target for it. He will only have two valid targets ever. Is targeting his own dragon a mandatory action? Is targeting the other player's dragon a mandatory action? Are two mutually exclusive actions mandatory, and what does that mean? Is neither action mandatory, making the drawn-game-on-mandatory-loop rule not apply? If it is only the &lt;em&gt;choosing&lt;/em&gt; of a target that is mandatory, but not a particular target, would the game also be drawn with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; in some graveyard (since the loop of always choosing dragon still exists)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T13:42:49.823" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T04:50:17.903" Title="M:tG infinite loops: which actions are optional vs. mandatory? Is there inaction?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29265" CreationDate="2016-03-11T14:03:56.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A mandatory loop is one that is caused by some triggered actions that trigger other actions that trigger other...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One such example is having 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt;s (and only 3 Oblivion Rings) in play/exile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first O-ring targets nothing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second targets the first, exiling it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third comes into play, and since it must exile something, it exiles the second O-ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first O-ring comes back, and since it must exile something, it exiles the third O-ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second O-ring comes back, and since it must exile something, it exiles the first O-ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The third comes back, and since it must exile something, it exiles the second O-ring.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goto step 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Platinum Angel scenario, since the only action (mandatory or otherwise) is passing priority, and if it were to continuously happen nothing would change, the game would end in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if a player had a chance of getting rid of their opponent's angel (or their own), they are not required to play. If neither player is willing to do anything to change the game state, and there is nothing that will cause a win/loss (decking normally), then the game ends in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Worldgorger Dragon scenario, since the choice has options, at some point you'll have to end the loop and choose your opponent's Dragon. (By 104.4b)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T20:21:10.837" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T20:21:10.837" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29267" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29268" CreationDate="2016-03-11T14:31:14.247" Score="7" ViewCount="2251" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I made a really cool Mono-Black Eldrazi Tron deck. The only decks it has lost to are Bogles and an Izzet Control that was running a few copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crumble%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Crumble to Dust&lt;/a&gt;. The only thing I can come up with for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crumble%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Crumble to Dust&lt;/a&gt; is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Memoricide&quot;&gt;Memoricide&lt;/a&gt; and/or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Cranial Extraction&lt;/a&gt;. Does anyone know another or better way? And what could I do about Bogles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:35:28.840" Title="How can I protect my tron deck against Crumble To Dust" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29267" CreationDate="2016-03-11T14:40:45.297" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could go with regular black hand disruption like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thoughtseize&quot;&gt;Thoughtseize&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt; then maybe have some &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Surgical%20Extraction&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; to clean them up after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Bogles, making the player sacrifice a creature would be good. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cruel%20Edict&quot;&gt;Cruel Edict&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devour%20Flesh&quot;&gt;Devour Flesh&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geth%27s%20Verdict&quot;&gt;Geth&amp;#39;s Verdict&lt;/a&gt; are some low-mana options. You could go for a bomb with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Liliana%20of%20the%20Veil&quot;&gt;Liliana of the Veil&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's good about the hand disruption is that it's just good in general, against most decks, and might even be in you main deck. The creature sacrificing is a bit more situational, but for decks that ramp w/o mana dorks, or bogles it'd be good to have in the sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T14:53:14.760" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T14:53:14.760" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29267" CreationDate="2016-03-11T15:17:02.050" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It costs four mana. Just kill them before they cast it. Or, in black (and colorless, with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Though-Knot%20Seer&quot;&gt;Though-Knot Seer&lt;/a&gt;), use targeted discard to take it out of their hand, and then kill them before they draw another. You want some sort of targeted discard to deal with sweepers and such anyways, so this doesn't even have to cost a slot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Land destruction spells don't actually do anything to protect against threats you have already resolved. It's disrupting spells that you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; play later. So the solution is to punish them for spending an entire turn's worth of mana to kill your land, by hitting them with the threats you already have out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Against Boggles, any sort of removal that doesn't target will work. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Damnation&quot;&gt;Damnation&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cruel%20Edict&quot;&gt;Cruel Edict&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Infest&quot;&gt;Infest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ratchet%20Bomb&quot;&gt;Ratchet Bomb&lt;/a&gt;, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T15:56:59.453" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T15:56:59.453" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29267" CreationDate="2016-03-11T16:32:47.277" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Crumble%20to%20Dust&quot;&gt;Crumble to Dust&lt;/a&gt; is a sorcery, you could use the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Warping%20Wail&quot;&gt;Warping Wail&lt;/a&gt; to counter it. Warping Wail has some other utility and it requiring a colorless mana should be no problem for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:35:28.840" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:35:28.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29265" CreationDate="2016-03-11T20:42:57.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Inaction&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am going to define inaction as not choosing when a choice is presented to you. This is not the same as choosing to do nothing when an ability gives you that option (e.g. you &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; draw a card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could, in theory, choose to be inactive forever in a casual game of Magic. The comprehensive rules allow for this (but your friends might not). However, in the context of the rules for infinite loops, it doesn't make sense to consider &amp;quot;inaction&amp;quot; an option. If &amp;quot;inaction&amp;quot; were an option, then no action in the game could possibly be mandatory. The rest of my answer assumes that inaction is not an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are never obligated to cast spells or activate abilities, even if you could interrupt a loop by doing so. This does not fit my definition of inaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.5. No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mandatory&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An action is mandatory if it is your only option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target player discards a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only have one option: discard a card. This action is mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a special class of actions that aren't technically mandatory, but can be treated as such. You are never obligated to choose the &amp;quot;unless&amp;quot; option, even if you could interrupt a loop by doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.6. If a loop contains an effect that says “[A] unless [B],” where [A] and [B] are each actions, no player can be forced to perform [B] to break the loop. If no player chooses to perform [B], the loop will continue as though [A] were mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Optional&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An action is &lt;strong&gt;optional&lt;/strong&gt; if you have more than one option. For example, let's assume that there are two artifacts on the field, and you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Naturalize&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Destroy target artifact.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have two choices. Therefore, the action of choosing the either artifact is optional.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Loops&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a loop is comprised entirely of mandatory actions, then 716.4 applies, and the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.4. If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a loop contains at least one optional action, then the loop is fragmented, and rule 716.3 applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens, the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 1&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contains only mandatory actions (passing priority), and is covered by 716.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 2&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contains only mandatory actions. You are not obligated to cast Mox Opal per 716.5, but you could if you wanted to. 716.4 applies if you don't cast Mox Opal, and it will still apply if you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 3&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contains nested loops. The inner loop is fragmented because you can choose to attack or not attack with Platinum Angel. 716.3 applies to the inner loop, and so the active player must make a different choice. This process repeats, forming an outer loop. Neither player can make a game choice that breaks the outer loop. Therefore, 716.4 applies, and the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 4&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contains a nested loop. The inner loop is fragmented, but this time the outer loop is also fragmented, because either player could make a game choice that ends the outer loop. Therefore, 716.3 applies and the active player must break the outer loop by choosing that option. The rules don't specify which player is active in a loop that spans multiple turns, so your question is unanswerable via comprehensive rules. In my opinion, the active player is whatever player was active when the loop started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 5&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exactly the same as scenario 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similar to scenario 4, except that if you choose to cast Vendetta, you win. If you don't, the game ends in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scenario 7&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same as scenario 3. The inner loop is fragmented, because you can choose which dragon to target. This process repeats, forming an outer loop. Neither player can make a game choice that breaks the outer loop. Therefore, 716.4 applies, and the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-03-11T22:20:19.147" LastActivityDate="2016-03-11T22:20:19.147" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29225" CreationDate="2016-03-11T23:52:21.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could try it. It probably wouldn't fundamentally ruin the game. It would reduce the randomness. Depending on your group's preferences that could be a good or bad thing. Overall the event cards are more or less breakeven, so removing them wouldn't slow the game down much, and would reduce the reading and decisions encountered in the game, which would probably speed it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally the black ball sets the base speed to 3 (regardless of what the other ball is); that makes the average base speed 3.5. The second change you propose, to use 2 for the black ball, would raise the average base speed to 4. Not a huge difference and again, unlikely to break the game. And faster movement would get ships to colonizable planets faster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cannons would indeed lower in importance, and they're arguably already a lower priority than other uses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12764" LastEditorUserId="12764" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T15:07:21.413" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T15:07:21.413" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27826" CreationDate="2016-03-12T04:53:49.230" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely not in a tournament. You would have to use the printed effect, but if you can get the people you are playing against (in a casual setting) to agree to the change in effect, sure you can! (Most people wouldn't want to play you if you had that though, even if it requires the tribute of three monsters)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summary: As house rules, yes. In a tournament, no.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15606" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T04:53:49.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-12T06:01:02.503" Score="3" ViewCount="1062" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using a specific example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ancestral%20Statue&quot;&gt;Ancestral Statue&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have played many different card games and they all have different rules regarding this ability. If I had no other permanents would Ancestral Statue return itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15608" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T06:10:00.627" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T13:52:01.550" Title="Can the ability, return target permeant to hand, be activated on the creature that uses the ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29276" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29275" CreationDate="2016-03-12T06:16:27.923" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since Ancestral Statue doesn't say &amp;quot;Return &lt;strong&gt;another&lt;/strong&gt; nonland permanent, it is possible it will return it self if it is the only permanent you control when it enters the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Another&amp;quot; is an important word; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Invasive%20Species&quot;&gt;Invasive Species&lt;/a&gt; won't return itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T06:16:27.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2016-03-12T15:06:04.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt; Use all your meeples in the last few turns &lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is a waste if you have meeples left after the last turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order of importance:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Completing (large) cities have the first priority. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try looking for farms with two or three cities that are not yet taken. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Try to put a meeple on cities or roads that have not yet been taken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that unfinished cities give only half the points that finished cities, while for cloisters and roads it doesn't really matter whether it is finished or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt; Put cloisters next to each other &lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to put cloisters next to each other. If you do so, then you can get two points for every piece you put next to the cloister and you will complete the first cloister faster. However, also beware that you don't put too many meeples on cloisters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15610" LastEditorUserId="15610" LastEditDate="2017-01-29T13:53:43.220" LastActivityDate="2017-01-29T13:53:43.220" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27139" CreationDate="2016-03-12T22:41:58.837" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First page under Warscrolls &amp;amp; Units heading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;A unit can have one or more models, but cannot include models that use different warscrolls.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.  No warscroll may ever join another war scroll.  Characters are always alone and may never join units.  The only exceptions would be if a specific character has an ability on their warscroll that allows them to join another warscroll.  Goblin fanatics (not a character) are the only example I can think of offhand, but they are actually hidden within a unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15613" LastEditorUserId="15613" LastEditDate="2016-03-12T22:47:18.410" LastActivityDate="2016-03-12T22:47:18.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29282" CreationDate="2016-03-13T07:44:39.887" Score="1" ViewCount="7449" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recently,&lt;/strong&gt; I came upon an odd rule that states that a town/city placed in between two enemy roads &quot;displaces&quot; the enemy roads, now let's say there is a large stretch of road with only one town connected. And my opponent places a town in between my roads to &quot;displace&quot; it. Does the side not connected to my town get removed, or does it sit there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In case you don't understand what I'm trying to say here. I'll provide a simple diagram and I'll restate the problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*---B-----#-------A-----&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, let's say the asterisk is my town and the hash key is the enemy town. And obviously the dashs are my roads. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the enemy town displaces the main road into two different sections(section B and section A). Does section A sit there? or is it removed from the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15615" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T12:30:22.830" Title="In Catan, when a settlement breaks a road. Do the other existing roads sit there? or are they removed?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29281" CreationDate="2016-03-13T12:30:22.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&lt;/a&gt; I can't find the word 'displace' so i'm not sure exactly what rule you are referring to. So I will answer your question by explaining what would happen quoting the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Building a settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You must meet 2 conditions when building a settlement: (1) Your&#xA;  settlement must always connect to 1 or more of your own roads. (2) You&#xA;  must observe the Distance Rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is nothing there about removing roads from the map.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;in the Longest Road section it states.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can break an opponent’s road by building a settlement on an&#xA;  unoccupied intersection along his road!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might apply in the example you have given.  Your longest road length will no be either section A or B, depending which is longer.  There is nothing in the rules about removing roads from the map here either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T12:30:22.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29275" CreationDate="2016-03-13T13:52:01.550" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;yes it can and in the case where it is the only non-land permanent, since it doesn't say you 'may' return, it actually forces you to return it to your hand. This is not an option, the ability is forced and therefore must be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15598" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T13:52:01.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29284" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T14:07:36.390" Score="3" ViewCount="2528" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a stretch and in no way am I trying to dull the game. However, I recently ran across this potential issue. Many cards have an ability that may read, '...Play this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.' and some that say '...Play this ability only if you could play a sorcery. Now bear with me. Since the second example included the word 'if', would this mean that IF I do not have a sorcery in my hand, I cannot play a sorcery, hence, I would not be able to play the ability. As opposed to the first example which states I can use the ability any time a sorcery could be cast instead of 'if' I can play one, which I cannot if I don't possess one in hand. This is flimsy as I know the intended purpose is for the ability to only be cast during your turn as a sorcery. Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15598" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-03-13T20:24:23.013" LastActivityDate="2021-05-04T21:57:31.353" Title="What does &quot;play this ability only if you could play a sorcery&quot; mean?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29284" CreationDate="2016-03-13T14:40:45.683" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are currently no cards with either the first or the second text.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Default.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oracle card reference&lt;/a&gt; contains the official wording for all Magic cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108.1. Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Oracle has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Advanced.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;advanced search tab&lt;/a&gt; with powerful filter options that allows you to search for cards with an exact wording. The wordings of cards get updates (errata) all the time, for example for cases like yours where a wording might be ambiguous, or when comprehensive rules changes affect a card's wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, many cards have rulings at the bottom of their Oracle page that answer specific questions that might arise from that card. Those rulings are not official rules, but they are derived by official judges by application of the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, the currently correct wording is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22only%20any%20time%20you%20could%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&amp;quot;Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The term &amp;quot;play&amp;quot; is still used, but no longer for casting spells or activating abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To play a land is to put a land onto the battlefield as a special action. See rule 115, “Special Actions,” and rule 305, “Lands.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To play a card is to play that card as a land or cast that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate. See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Obsolete) Casting a spell used to be known as playing a spell. Cards with that text have received errata in the Oracle card reference. See Cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;(Obsolete) Activating an activated ability used to be known as playing an activated ability. Cards with that text have received errata in the Oracle card reference. See Activate.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;(Obsolete) The battlefield used to be known as the in-play zone. Cards that were printed with text that contains the phrases “in play,” “from play,” “into play,” or the like are referring to the battlefield and have received errata in the Oracle card reference. See Battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T14:46:41.887" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4168" CreationDate="2016-03-13T15:56:27.410" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You wouldn't do damage to the player unless the creature has trample. Abilities like lifelink and double strike still apply. Lifelink requires damage to be done. Doublestrike mearly doubles the damage done. If no damage occurs, neither ability activates. However, if the blocking creature is removed after the damage phase, damage is still done to the blocking creature, although this will remove the damage done and the creature can survive lethal damage. If it's removed before damage can take place, due to a fast effect or instant, no damage is done to the blocker and the attacker is still blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15598" LastEditorUserId="15598" LastEditDate="2016-03-13T16:08:50.483" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T16:08:50.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29287" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T22:07:16.830" Score="4" ViewCount="3763" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game &lt;em&gt;War&lt;/em&gt; is played with two decks of standard 52-card playing cards. Each player shuffles their deck into a draw pile. Simultaneously, each player turns over the top card. The player with the highest card wins the war and takes both cards. When a player runs out of cards, the player shuffles their cards and the cards won from their opponent into a new draw pile. Play continues until one of the players has no cards. Which &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I played &lt;em&gt;War&lt;/em&gt; a lot as a kid. Now my kids are learning to play. But the game still suffers from being entirely luck-based and never ending. &lt;strong&gt;What are the variants to this game that reduce luck and/or involve strategy?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T23:18:40.003" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T15:07:23.307" Title="What variants are there for the playing-card-based game &quot;War&quot;?" Tags="|variants|war|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29288" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-13T22:36:38.320" Score="-1" ViewCount="252" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Everyone has 5-4-4 &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every pair has a 5-0 match and two 4-4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every 5 long colors is 10-A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you play this and what's the maximum you can achive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11926" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T23:11:16.867" Title="What's the best way to play the worst possible 4 hands in bridge" Tags="|bridge|puzzles|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-14T23:57:50.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29288" CreationDate="2016-03-13T23:11:16.867" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;These hands are pathological for both sides. For example consider this example of one pattern you describe:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            NORTH&#xA;            S: AKQJT        &#xA;            H: -&#xA;            D: AQT8&#xA;            C: KJ97&#xA;&#xA;WEST                    EAST&#xA;S: 8642                S: 9753&#xA;H: 9753                H: 8642&#xA;D: J9753               D: -&#xA;C: -                   C: J9753&#xA;&#xA;            SOUTH&#xA;            S: -        &#xA;            H: AKQJT&#xA;            D: KJ97&#xA;            C: AQT8&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although NS can make 7NT on any lead, if they mistakenly end up in 7 of a major instead the result will be anything from making to down 8, depending on the lead. (Note the cross ruff in the minors available to EW if either major is trump.) Note that many NS pairs may find it difficult to reach the cold Notrump grand with a void in each hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Diamond contract by South is unassailable as East has no diamonds with which to ruff, but by North will go down one on a Club lead by East. The opposite holds true for a Club contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The actual result at each table will very much depend on the experience and systems available to each partnership.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The (in)famous &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeace.com/Lessons/famous/The_Mississippi_Heart_Hand.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mississippi Heart Hand&lt;/a&gt; is another example of a pathologically bad distribution for a seemingly very strong  partnership holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-03-13T23:11:16.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29290" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-14T02:59:50.720" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Endeavor&lt;/em&gt; is a strategy game in which players control seagoing empires competing for the most glory. The English edition was first released in 2009 by Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T08:08:20.417" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T08:08:20.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29291" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-14T02:59:50.720" Score="0" Body="A strategy game in which players control seagoing empires competing for the most glory." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T08:08:23.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T08:08:23.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29292" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-14T03:01:59.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rory's Story Cubes&lt;/em&gt; is A storytelling game involving dice with pictures on each face, which players then use to tell a story. It was first released in 2005 by Gamewright.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T08:08:15.980" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T08:08:15.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29293" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-14T03:01:59.827" Score="0" Body="A storytelling game involving dice with pictures on each face, which players then use to tell a story." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T08:08:08.027" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T08:08:08.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29294" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-14T03:13:18.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shark&lt;/em&gt; is a stock-trading game where players attempt to influence the value of stocks and become the richest player. It was first published in 1997 by Flying Turtle Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/433/shark&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T08:08:32.793" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T08:08:32.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29295" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-14T03:13:18.250" Score="0" Body="A stock-trading game where players attempt to influence the value of stocks and become the richest player." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T08:08:40.307" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T08:08:40.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29296" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29287" CreationDate="2016-03-14T04:26:34.760" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Strategy War / Armed War&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a variant of war, called &amp;quot;Strategy War&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Armed War&amp;quot; (a joke on hands) where, instead of pulling the card from the top of your deck, you chose it from your hand.  This works as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You shuffle the deck and deal it out in equal parts.  Each player takes the cards dealt to him/her and puts them in his/her hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All cards a player plays and all cards a player gains during the game go to his/her discard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A player's discard becomes his/her hand only upon his/her hand becoming empty.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is played as usual, but with players choosing which card to play from their hands on each turn instead of pulling off the top of their pile.  Players each play their card face down, and then once all cards are down, players reveal the cards they have played.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the event of a WAR, players shuffle their hands and take three cards at random from their hand to form the facedown &amp;quot;WAR&amp;quot; cards, then return to viewing their hands to select the final card for the WAR.  If, during this process, a player does not have enough cards in his/her hand, he/she puts all the cards from his/her hand into play as &amp;quot;WAR&amp;quot; cards, then continues using cards at random from his/her discard to complete the three facedown cards, then takes his/her remaining discard as his/her hand and continues playing.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2's beat whatever card is highest (Aces, unless you are playing with Jokers), but lose to all other cards.  This is essential in this variant, to make Aces not just an obvious play at the end of a war.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, players Aaron and Blake each play a card face down; they reveal, both showing a King.  They shuffle their hands, each put three cards at random from their hands into play facedown, and then return to their hands to select a final card for the WAR.  When they reveal the final card, Aaron played an Ace and Blake played a Queen; Aaron wins the whole hand and takes all 10 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The advantages to this variant are several fold.  First, there is actual strategy.  Second, wars are more common due to the overlap in play style.  Third, there are interesting tradeoffs between using your best cards early versus saving them for later, which is a great thing for kids to learn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make the game faster, take out a chunk of the low-valued cards, such as the 3's through 8's (make sure to keep the 2's as the ace-beaters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2023-09-26T15:07:23.307" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T15:07:23.307" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29287" CreationDate="2016-03-14T04:52:56.907" Score="1" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Time limit variant:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the limit, a new rule becomes active:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if a &lt;code&gt;3&lt;/code&gt; is won, remove it from play. If all four 3's are removed, start removing the 4's, and so on up to &lt;code&gt;aces&lt;/code&gt;. by the time the aces are removed, there are only jokers and 2s and the game should be over soon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2023-09-26T04:52:36.743" LastActivityDate="2023-09-26T04:52:36.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29298" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29326" CreationDate="2016-03-14T09:31:02.967" Score="2" ViewCount="472" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a region is ruined, I found it very hard to get units out of the ruined region into new regions (i.e. by using chaos cards). So, what happens to units in ruined areas? Do they:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Come off the board? (I don't think this happens, as it would render Nurgle's 'remove units card' moot)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Allow units to move to a new region? (Unlikely, as the units only 'move' from your reserve to a region, or by intervention of a chaos card, e.g. teleport)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T15:32:20.233" Title="Chaos in the Old World: What happens to units in ruined regions?" Tags="|chaos-in-the-old-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29299" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T10:11:52.053" Score="14" ViewCount="4204" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we compare Elo(-like) ratings in chess and in go, we see that the highest ratings published for go (3621 for Ke Jie as of 2016-03-13 at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.goratings.org/&quot;&gt;goratings.org&lt;/a&gt;) are higher than those in chess (2851 for Magnus Carlsen as of 2016-03-01 at &lt;a href=&quot;http://ratings.fide.com/top.phtml?list=men&quot;&gt;FIDE.com&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the best explanation one of the following suggestions, or something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go is in some sense better played than chess. While many in the West think of chess as the premier intellectual game, go has, I believe, been studied more intensively, had more support in Eastern culture than chess has where it is played and is financially more rewarding.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go is better at distinguishing slight differences in strength, e.g. because games are longer or because draws are rare (about 1 game in 50, I believe).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is some arbitrary difference in the way the Elo approach is applied to go and chess, e.g. an arbitrary baseline or scaling factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In any case, an explanation of how the rating system work and, if appropriate, interact with the nature of the games is needed to make an answer complete. If it is illuminating, a comparison with other games would also be welcome — for example, what would happen with ratings for a trivial game like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tic-tac-toe&quot;&gt;noughts and crosses&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realise that the systems are not &lt;em&gt;intended&lt;/em&gt; for direct comparison, but I hope that they still allow some sort of conclusion to drawn. They are, after all, based on the same principles, though various parameters may be differently set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14474" LastEditorUserId="21044" LastEditDate="2017-11-22T10:59:05.973" LastActivityDate="2017-11-22T10:59:05.973" Title="Why are Elo ratings for go higher than for chess?" Tags="|go|chess|rank|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29299" CreationDate="2016-03-14T10:23:56.370" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't have an understanding of Go ratings, but I think you are comparing apples with oranges, i.e. Go elo ratings are not meant to be compared to Chess elo ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This quote is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://lifein19x19.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;amp;t=7325&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comparison of go rank with chess rating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It's not really possible. You could use the European GoR system to give a rough comparison, but the problem is that it's not anchored in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T10:23:56.370" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29301" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29375" CreationDate="2016-03-14T11:00:00.950" Score="3" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a 5x5 Big Boggle set (in English). Is it possible to play regular 4x4 Boggle with this set by removing cubes? I'd like to remove 9 cubes and get a letter distribution that's close to the distribution in traditional 4x4 Boggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:20:53.027" Title="Convert Big Boggle to regular Boggle" Tags="|boggle|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29302" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T14:38:59.687" Score="1" ViewCount="3658" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my group of friends play a lot of Catan. And we recently got a version of Risk. We ended up thinking about how relationship destroying a combined version of Risk, Catan, and Monopoly would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So is there any way to combine the three? (Doesn't matter how mundane or ridiculous it is.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8434" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T14:53:18.943" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:30:05.803" Title="How to combine Risk, Catan, and Monopoly?" Tags="|house-rules|catan|monopoly|risk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-03-14T17:36:00.100" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29299" CreationDate="2016-03-14T14:40:42.020" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have two games each of which ranks players using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elo_rating_system&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ELO&lt;/a&gt; rating system, then the game with higher rankings is generally viewed as &quot;more complex&quot; than the game with lower rankings.  In the sense that there are more discrete levels of learning to mastery.  It is not clear to me which ranking systems are being used in your statement, but for the conclusion to hold, the ranking systems used must be identical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that said, Go is definitely a more &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_complexity&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;complex game&lt;/a&gt; than Chess, and is widely recognized as such.  Anecdotal evidence to support that claim: Humans have been beat by computers in Chess for a while now, Go is apparently just happening today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Better&quot; isn't a good word to use in this context, as that's a rather subjective term.  &quot;Complexity&quot; is typically used in these kinds of conversations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is interesting to note, that the highest ELO ranking for League of Legends that I could find is &lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.euw.leagueoflegends.com/board/showthread.php?t=1089795&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;3069&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T14:40:42.020" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29304" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29234" CreationDate="2016-03-14T14:43:33.530" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the question about Nightmare Penguin once this card is destroyed the other monsters cards revert back to there original attack points  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T14:43:33.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29235" CreationDate="2016-03-14T15:28:17.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The DeepMind channel on Youtube has a short review of each game by Michael Redmond 9P.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIQxOsRAXCo&quot;&gt;summary for game 1&lt;/a&gt;, Michael estimates that black is slightly ahead on the board. When you factor in the 7.5 point komi, it means that the final score would have been around 5.5 in favor of AlphaGo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;AlphaGo does not attempt to maximize its points or its margin of victory. It tries to maximize its probability of winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wired.com/2016/03/googles-ai-wins-pivotal-game-two-match-go-grandmaster/&quot;&gt;wired]&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T15:28:17.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29302" CreationDate="2016-03-14T16:00:32.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can combine them into a triatlon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First play risk&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next Monopoly&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last Catan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you really want to combine them into one game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use a hex tile based board like catan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player has a playing piece that starts at the first settlement and travels along your road (and ships).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first player that builds a settlement adjacent to an hex can buy it for two ore and a grain. You place an army on that hex.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each other player that builds a settlement adjacent to an hex owned by another player must pay one ore to the owner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you own a hex, you can build an additional army for one ore and one grain. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On your turn, you could use your army to conquer the hex owned by another player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That combines elements of Risk, Monopoly and Catan and probably results in a game that is hard to play. But as always, be carefull what you ask for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T16:00:32.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29307" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29302" CreationDate="2016-03-14T16:11:23.227" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I would handle this, but it requires at least four players. You also won't be able to do this with more players than the maximum of any game (i.e.: if the maximum player limit on your version of Catan is 4, you can't do this with five players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll need: a 60-second sand timer and all three games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're essentially going to be playing parallel games, rotating turn order in the same direction on each board. The fourth (and fifth and sixth, if available) player, who is not the main player on any board, will be the referee to make sure there's no funny business and to make die rolls on the Risk board. Turn order would look something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P1 on Catan; P2 on Monopoly; P3 on Risk; P4 ref&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P2 on Catan; P3 on Monopoly; P4 on Risk; P1 ref&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P3 on Catan; P4 on Monopoly; P1 on Risk; P2 ref&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;P4 on Catan; P1 on Monopoly; P2 on Risk; P3 ref&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Back to step 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player takes their turn on their main board. Risk turns generally take the longest, so that's why the ref moves to Risk; they'll already have a sense of the board state. When necessary, the ref will also roll dice against the main players, which will mostly be happening in Risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an action by a main player requires a main player from another board, grab the sand timer. The players have 60 seconds to finish that task, whether it's trading in Catan, or payment in Monopoly. During these 60-second interruptions, all play should be suspended on any board where the action isn't taking place. At the end of 60 seconds, if the action isn't completed (e.g.: a trade isn't agreed upon), the action is cancelled and can't be repeated again that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, you have up to three winners, one for each of the boards. You also have no friends, but that's a different issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this technique could technically be implemented with other games where: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player interaction is fairly limited &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;People take complete turns before the next player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Turn order doesn't vary between rounds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wanna throw Ticket to Ride in instead of Monopoly? That'll work. Not a big fan of Catan? Try out Candy Land instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T16:11:23.227" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29308" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29257" CreationDate="2016-03-14T16:53:13.783" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;After reading &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cyningstan.com/post/1123/games-around-the-world-pre-columbian-america&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; I could find several references to games played during the precolumbian era. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For some of them the rules are unknown but here is the list (to be completed) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patolli&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Patolli&lt;/a&gt; played by Teotihuacanos, Toltecs, etc. Before Christ !&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bul_%28game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bul&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Awithlaknakwe&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Awithlaknakwe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Totolospi&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T16:53:13.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29302" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:30:05.803" Score="2" Body="&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;10 PLAY Catan&#xA;20 IF RND&amp;lt;0.5 GOTO 10&#xA;30 PLAY Risk&#xA;40 GOTO 10&#xA;50 PLAY Monopoly&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite first appearances, this algorithm is not faulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:30:05.803" CommentCount="0" CommunityOwnedDate="2016-03-14T17:30:05.803" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29310" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29299" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:37:15.223" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no ELO rating in go. And even no official international rating at all. A common question in go forums is &quot;how does my rating in [whatever country or online server] compare with [other country or online server]&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.europeangodatabase.eu/EGD/Find_Player.php&quot;&gt;European Go Federation&lt;/a&gt; is maintaining an international rating system where Ke Jie is rated 2956.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;goratings.org is an individual initiative by &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.remi-coulom.fr/&quot;&gt;Remi Coulom&lt;/a&gt;. It has become popular because it gave journalists a way to assign a World ranking to Fan Hui, but this is not an official rating system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line is your answer 3, there is some arbitrary difference in the way the approach is applied to go and chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:37:15.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29311" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:40:04.053" Score="5" ViewCount="3968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several German cards, from Unlimited - Fourth. How can I tell the price of German (ex. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypnotic%20Specter&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Specter&lt;/a&gt;)? &lt;a href=&quot;http://shop.tcgplayer.com/magic/product/show?productname=hypnotic%20specter&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;TCGplayer's website&lt;/a&gt; doesn't appear to have much data for foreign language cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="7491" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T05:16:06.443" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T05:16:06.443" Title="How can I find the price of non-english cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29311" CreationDate="2016-03-14T17:40:04.053" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://starcitygames.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Starcitygames.com&lt;/a&gt; has a built-in foreign language price/ordering. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/search.php?substring=Hypnotic%20Specter&amp;amp;t_all=All&amp;amp;start_date=2010-01-29&amp;amp;end_date=2012-04-22&amp;amp;order_1=finish&amp;amp;limit=25&amp;amp;action=Show%2BDecks&amp;amp;card_qty%5B1%5D=1&amp;amp;auto=Y&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search page for Hypnotic Specter&lt;/a&gt; has a link to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com/carddisplay.php?product=140922&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;old german version&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T17:40:04.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8" CreationDate="2016-03-14T18:58:58.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my experience, the cloisters are punishment for people that don't have spare meeples.  I have seen people get into a bidding war over farms and then draw several cloisters and not have meeples available to claim them.  Also, without cloisters, there would be far less to lose by committing all of your meeples in the late game.  With them, you must chose between taking a small number of points for a partial city or road, versus hold out in case you draw one of the remaining cloisters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, simply using the base set compatible tiles from the expansions mitigates the power of cloisters somewhat due to the odd features that show up on those pieces.  It makes it harder to drop a cloister into an empty spot, due to more city tiles with attached roads and cloister tiles with roads or cities on them.  This makes the situation of a nice all-farmland hole much rarer and also not compatible with all the cloister tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-03-14T19:05:14.773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-14T19:05:14.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-14T22:28:16.983" Score="1" ViewCount="4268" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hello there I've trying to get my hands on a rare miss printed base set pikachu. Where the 1st edition symbol is faded, aka the (ghost print). I just wondered is the pikachu on the right is a (ghost print). Thanks for your help.&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDdk5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rDdk5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15628" LastActivityDate="2017-06-19T22:49:33.270" Title="1st Edition missprints on base set pikachu" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29311" CreationDate="2016-03-14T23:39:58.070" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.magiccardmarket.eu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.magiccardmarket.eu/&lt;/a&gt; is widely used as the authoritative* price for non-English product. They are a market place and will typically have many sellers for most big name cards in many languages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* That isn't to say that there isn't many weird prices to be found, you still need to use your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T01:26:59.743" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T01:26:59.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29314" CreationDate="2016-03-15T02:38:20.970" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not appear that this is a &quot;Ghost Stamp Pikachu&quot;. I checked online and found several for sale that are slabbed and rated, but the &quot;First Edition&quot; marker looks quite different than yours, with parts of it missing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNgd0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/aNgd0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AW9aB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/AW9aB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFdlI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KFdlI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that all of these genuine &quot;Ghost Stamp Pikachu&quot; cards are also Yellow Cheek Pikachu cards, so you are on the right track with it being a Ghost Print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T02:38:20.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29317" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-15T02:46:23.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Ratuki&lt;/em&gt; (a.k.a. &lt;em&gt;Ligretto Crazy&lt;/em&gt;) is a card game where players try to rid their hand of cards that have the numbers 1-5 represented as numerals, fingers on a hand, or spelled out in various languages. It was first published by USAopoly in 2009 and by Hasbro in 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/46586/ratuki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T06:24:49.530" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T06:24:49.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29318" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-15T02:46:23.633" Score="0" Body="A card game where players try to rid their hand of cards that have the numbers 1-5 represented as numerals, fingers on a hand, or spelled out in various languages." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T04:38:51.873" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T04:38:51.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29319" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-15T02:50:54.130" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thurn &amp;amp; Taxis&lt;/em&gt; is a strategy game where players build postal routes across Bavaria and the surrounding regions to score points. The English edition was first published in 2006 by Rio Grande Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/21790/thurn-and-taxis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T04:38:58.670" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T04:38:58.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29320" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-15T02:50:54.130" Score="0" Body="A strategy game where players build postal routes across Bavaria and the surrounding regions to score points." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-15T06:24:28.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T06:24:28.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29234" CreationDate="2016-03-15T10:18:22.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;The monster&quot; in each statement refers to the monster causing the effect.&#xA;As with any magic or trap card, once the card is removed from the field, its effect no longer applies (unless the card explicitly states otherwise).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T10:18:22.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29324" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29333" CreationDate="2016-03-15T14:01:03.717" Score="7" ViewCount="2571" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've had exploding kittens for a while but haven't really played it because every time I try to play, nobody really knows whether they are supposed to keep what they draw secret or show it to everybody to prove it isn't an exploding kitten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you supposed to show everybody what you draw when you draw it (allowing more complicated strategies based on remembering what cards people have) or do you just trust that nobody hides an exploding kitten?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions make no mention of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15634" LastActivityDate="2018-10-19T16:26:12.413" Title="Do you need to show what you draw?" Tags="|exploding-kittens|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29325" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29324" CreationDate="2016-03-15T14:12:20.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not defined in the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You get the most interesting game by drawing blind and revealing only the exploding kitten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit&lt;/strong&gt; I just found a section in the rules that implies very clearly that you don't show the card unless it is an exploding kitten:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;EXPLODING KITTENS: You must show this card immediately. Unless you have a DEFUSE CARD, you’re dead. Discard all of your cards, including the EXPLODING KITTEN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T09:59:37.810" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T09:59:37.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29298" CreationDate="2016-03-15T15:32:20.233" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing special happens. The figures just stay there and can be moved to another region in the summoning phase, or by other means. To quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/chaos_in_the_old_world/chaos-in-the-world-rule-book/chaos-in-the-old-world-rule-book-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 25, &quot;Ruined Regions&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a region is ruined [...] the following rules affect that region:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• New Chaos cards cannot be played to that region.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  • New Old World tokens cannot be placed in that region (although existing Old World tokens are not necessarily removed at the time of ruination).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  • During the corruption phase, no victory points are scored for dominating that region (i.e., domination is not checked for that region).&#xA;  • During the corruption phase, no corruption tokens are placed in that region.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All other normal rules for regions remain in effect for ruined regions.&lt;/strong&gt; Battle still occurs in a ruined region each round [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(my emphasis)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T15:32:20.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23721" CreationDate="2016-03-15T16:43:23.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, obviously if you can place your die on any of the 6 spaces of the card, even the filled-in ones, then of course you can always place your die. No re-roll needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a blueprints card usually has 3 or 4 spaces where you can place your die. I played this game many times and it never happened that we had to re-roll a new die. The only way this could happen is if you have high numbers on your card and ALL the remaining dice have smaller numbers. This is unlikely. But of course, if all players agree to purposely go for the highest numbers first, this might happen. But I don't see why you would do this. Even if glass dice with high numbers are available, the numbers are usually not so important for the other colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Thematic point of view&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this game might be considered an abstract game, but do not forget there is a theme. You are an architect. You cannot build wherever you want. The filled-in spaces represent roads, other buildings and so on. You are restricted by the surroundings. You should respect that, otherwise nobody will hire you as an architect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Technical point of view&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the differences are very small. One thing I can think of is:&#xA;- it is slightly easier to have more connections for the orange dice (which gives point according to adjacent neighbours). With the official rule, you might have an orange die on the first layer next to a filled-in space and therefore you cannot use this space to have an orange neighbour and score more points. You will have to manage it by putting a die over the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On some rare occasions you will be able to play a die that you would not if you follow the official rules. So, I think this makes the game slightly easier, but not by much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But it also makes the game less interesting: what is the point of the blueprints if you can put your die where you want?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with this game is: usually you tend to respect your blueprint (6 points is always nice to have), the only time when you don't is when you really cannot or when you go for &quot;the tower&quot; (all dice stacked together).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5094" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T16:43:23.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29328" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29324" CreationDate="2016-03-15T20:56:35.913" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You know exactly how many exploding kittens are in the deck and there are no cards that allow you to put cards from your hand back in the deck, so it would become obvious at some point if someone cheated (either someone else drew an exploding kitten from their hand or the end of the deck was hit and there was more than one player left). Thus, I believe keeping cards secret is the way to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T20:56:35.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29254" CreationDate="2016-03-15T23:05:11.540" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only move them when they are in the correct order. You can move all or the bottom part. You cannot pull some from the middle or the beginning and only move those. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a king (and its descending cards, if they are in the correct order) can be moved to an empty column. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15636" LastActivityDate="2016-03-15T23:05:11.540" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T02:19:02.640" Score="8" ViewCount="1427" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do I bid when the opening bidder bids my bid?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;E.g. bids 1NT and that is what I want to bid and I don't have a 5 card suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15637" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-03T22:18:57.443" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T22:18:57.443" Title="Opening bidder steals my bid" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29331" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T03:45:46.650" Score="5" ViewCount="4794" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the penalty for going down with a hand that has more than 10 points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a player may lay down a 4d,5d,6d but one of the cards is actually of the heart suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15639" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2019-08-18T15:23:08.417" LastActivityDate="2019-08-18T15:23:08.417" Title="Gin Rummy, incorrect knocking" Tags="|gin-rummy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29331" CreationDate="2016-03-16T05:13:01.713" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's one answer from &lt;a href=&quot;http://ginrummytournaments.com/pdfs/Rules_2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://ginrummytournaments.com/pdfs/Rules_2012.pdf&lt;/a&gt;. Tl;dr if you could have knocked then you can accept his knock and undercut; otherwise game continues, he plays an open hand, and he must knock at first opportunity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;IMPROPER KNOCK: If a player makes an IMPROPER KNOCK, with his count being&#xA;  higher than the knock card, his hand must then be PLAYED OPEN, ALL TEN&#xA;  CARDS FACE UP. He MUST KNOCK when his point count is at the value of the&#xA;  knock or below. HE CANNOT BE FORCED TO KNOCK BY HIS OPPONENT. When a&#xA;  player makes an illegal knock with more than the knock card count, the opponent&#xA;  may accept the knock as proper, provided his point count is the same as the knock&#xA;  card or lower.(example; the knocking point is 8 and a player knocks with 10 points,&#xA;  the opponent with 8 points or less may accept the knock and get credit for the&#xA;  undercut). The opponent may also lay off points to get under the knock. When a&#xA;  player announces he is ginning or knocking, or calls a number and starts to lay his&#xA;  meld down, he must continue to do so. If his hand is not a gin or his knock is not&#xA;  legal he must play an open hand. The opponent may ask that the cards be spread&#xA;  for proper viewing, but may not touch the cards himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For casual play however I would tend to let my opponent pick up his cards and play normally - he's the only one who's been hurt by showing them to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-03-16T05:21:12.053" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T05:21:12.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29333" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29324" CreationDate="2016-03-16T09:50:11.410" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.explodingkittens.com/how&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;which are available online&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; specify that hands are secret. This is within the setup section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Shuffle the remaining deck and deal 4 cards &lt;strong&gt;face down&lt;/strong&gt; to each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Deal 1 Defuse card to each player so that everyone has a hand of 5 cards total. &lt;strong&gt;Keep your hand secret&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The draw step is part of the normal turn order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, end your turn by drawing a card from the Draw Pile &lt;strong&gt;into your hand&lt;/strong&gt; and hoping it’s not an Exploding Kitten.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the game tells us that hands are secret and cards drawn are added to our hand - at no point does it tell us to reveal the drawn card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exception for an exploding kitten being revealed immediately is covered under the specific rules for exploding kittens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EXPLODING KITTENS&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You must show this card immediately. Unless you have a DEFUSE CARD, you’re dead. Discard all of your cards, including the EXPLODING KITTEN.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you trust people to admit when they have a kitten. Cheating is possible (i.e. hold a kitten, then steal a defuse and pretend the next card was a kitten), but apart from that specific case it won't stop them being found out by the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T09:50:11.410" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29334" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T10:41:27.993" Score="3" ViewCount="142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to construct a list of games that have a particular mechanic, but with a twist. Dice rolling is the mechanic I am interested in but specifically with Non-numeric, partially numeric, or otherwise numbered dice (essentially, anything different from the ordinary 1 to n numbering with n being the number of sides of dice).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously asking for such a list is outside of the rules, but if possible I would like to find tools to help me find them for myself. Unfortunately BGG, while it has search by game mechanic, does not allow easy drilling by specifics, and with one as broad as Dice rolling, searching through a list of pictures of 18k+ games looking for odd-looking dice would be a fool's errand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of any site that categorizes games by this admittedly obscure mechanic, or anything else that might help me in this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13529" LastActivityDate="2017-02-04T13:09:49.823" Title="Is there a tool that will help me construct a list of games with a more specific game mechanic?" Tags="|mechanics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29335" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29336" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:27:05.587" Score="3" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I started playing Netrunner this weekend, and after our first game taking roughly 4 days, we're now enjoying it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that I'm just being thick here, but the manual never actually states how many cards you get to access in R&amp;amp;D / HQ. It says what happens &quot;When accessing multiple cards&quot;, so in our first game we just assumed it was a choice about whether you wanted to carry on accessing cards or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when we ran across The Maker's Eye, this method of play suddenly seemed wrong. Am I to assume that I only get to access ONE card from R&amp;amp;D/HQ unless I have a card that allows me to access more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15641" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T11:44:22.093" Title="How many cards can I access in R&amp;D / HQ?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29335" CreationDate="2016-03-16T11:44:22.093" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/android-netrunner-core-rules.pdf&quot;&gt;official rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, under Access Phase in the section on Runs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;R&amp;amp;D&lt;/strong&gt;: The Runner accesses the top card of R&amp;amp;D, and any upgrades&#xA;  in its root...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;HQ&lt;/strong&gt;: The Runner accesses one random card from HQ and any upgrades&#xA;  in its root...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;Archives&lt;/strong&gt;: The Runner accesses all cards in Archives and any&#xA;  upgrades in its root...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;• &lt;strong&gt;Remote Server&lt;/strong&gt;:  The Runner accesses all cards in the server.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T11:44:22.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29337" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-16T14:44:55.007" Score="6" ViewCount="1003" Body="&lt;p&gt;The fact that Runners have a default 4 memory units is absent from all printed data, and I'm curious if there's a specific design reason why. I can see how, thematically, the MU is not really a Runner trait, and that it's really more of a hardware thing to increase their memory slots. But &lt;a href=&quot;http://netrunnerdb.com/find/?q=Chaos%20&amp;amp;sort=faction&amp;amp;view=card&amp;amp;_locale=en&quot;&gt;Chaos Theory&lt;/a&gt;, for example, has +1 MU. Why not have her with a printed 5 MU? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2018-09-28T15:44:21.887" Title="Why isn't MU shown on Runner identities?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29343" CreationDate="2016-03-16T16:29:48.760" Score="6" ViewCount="1093" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where could I find information about the level of Go playing software? In particular, I am looking for commercial software.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally, I'd like to find a live ranking, as obviously this field is evolving fast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T22:43:59.500" Title="Ranking of Go Software" Tags="|go|computer-ai|rank|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29330" CreationDate="2016-03-16T18:00:00.113" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are several common situations with different handlings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opener to your right bids your best suit and you have 12+ points:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass and hope partner can make a balancing double, which you can then convert to penalty by passing. &lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt; The rationale in this case is that opponents, if partner is bust or close to it, actually have sufficient strength to bid game and perhaps make it. Let them discover for themselves that the breaks are bad and that you are end-playable, hopefully too late to salvage a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opener to your right opens a weak 1NT and you have the same hand:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass; unless partner can act in the balancing seat you are more likely to be plus by defending 1NT then by attempting to make a higher contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opener to your right opens a strong NT and you have the same hand:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is common to double with this hand though many experts prefer to Pass as above. It is not clear to me that either approach is better in the long term than the other. The increased points held by you and opener make it much less likely that partner can reopen, but you may be able to make 8 tricks in partner's longest suit even when he has only 5 or 6 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opener to your &lt;strong&gt;left&lt;/strong&gt; opens your best suit, you have 10+ points, and you are put in the balancing seat:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner with likely shortness in opener's suit could not act, and so is weak. Either the opponents have underbid, or they are in trouble; either way you are best to let the auction die. The hand is either a misfit for both sides or opponents have failed to find their fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Opener to your left opens 1NT (either weak or strong) and you have the same shape and announced range:&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass, especially if you have methods allowing entry over a 1NT opening to show various unbalanced intermediate hands. Nobody is getting rich on this hand, except by doubling over-aggressive opponents. Take your Average Plus result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fastest way to improve your scores is to become a better defender - by practicing your hand counting, your leads, your defensive signalling, and finally by practice. There is often much room for error by both defenders an declarer on these balanced low part scores. Taking one trick more on defence than your peers will often get you a very good score. Enjoy the opportunity of practicing your honed skills.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponents are halfways decent they will declare as often as you and your partner, so you will be defending twice as often as you declare. Repeat that thought; again. Practice your defence, and practice your defence again. Any delusion that you can win at this game through constant sacrificing against their contracts is just that - a &lt;em&gt;delusion&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2019-12-03T22:12:03.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1297" CreationDate="2016-03-16T19:46:01.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I start off with Quarrying if possible.  It can rack up a lot of money towards developments.  Even if you only get an extra &quot;bump&quot; per turn (as opposed to one extra &quot;bump&quot; moving on the Stone track, when you acquire up 7+ goods), it's still a good chunk of money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you or other players roll more Empire Dice, then get some protection against, those Disasters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8043" LastActivityDate="2016-03-16T19:46:01.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="22829" CreationDate="2016-03-17T12:48:24.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Get Out Of Jail Free card does not have a 'face value', but it does have intrinsic value, in so far as somebody may be willing to buy it from you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15652" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T12:48:24.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23225" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:03:27.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 plays a 5 - Total = 5 - No Points &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 plays a 5 - Total= 10 - Two Points to player 2 for a pair &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 3 plays a 5 - Total = 15 - Player 3 get 8 points (2 for the 15 total, and six for the triple) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 4 plays a 5 - Total = 20 - Player 4 get 12 points for the four of a kind.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nice if you can get it :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15654" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-03-17T14:16:25.337" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T14:16:25.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29338" CreationDate="2016-03-17T13:09:18.097" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Obviously, AlphaGo is the top AI now. Besides it, a simple way to find information about Computer Go Ranking would be to search for :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Computer go tournament&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a list of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_Go#List_of_Go-playing_computer_programs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go AI from wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a special website called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.computer-go.info/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Computer GO&lt;/a&gt; that registers past and future tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also a website for &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weddslist.com/kgs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KGS Computer Tournaments&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.weddslist.com/kgs/annual/index.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KGS tournament&lt;/a&gt;, the actual ranking is : &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zen&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DolBaram&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;abakus&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Darkforest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hira&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aya&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for commercial AIs, I don't think their level match the ones quoted here. It would require much hardware resources to run on a smartphone or a personnal computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T11:17:55.327" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T11:17:55.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29301" CreationDate="2016-03-17T15:27:44.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot &quot;exactly&quot; recreate 4x4 from 5x5.  A list of the 4x4 and 5x5 dice are at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29264/boggle-what-is-the-dice-configuration-for-boggle-in-various-languages?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;.  You can see that the Qu cube for the 4x4 is different than the one Qu cube for the 5x5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T15:27:44.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-03-17T18:26:10.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's also a subset of cooperative/competitive games, where a team of players will be pitted against another &quot;team&quot;, generally a single player. Fantasy Flight does a lot of these games: in Middle Earth Quest, for instance, a team of several players (the &quot;good guys&quot;; think The Fellowship in LotR, except the game takes place prior to the main trilogy) unites against one single player, who controls Sauron. At the end, either the players or Sauron will win; additionally, I believe (though I will have to check myself on this when I can dig up the rule book) each player also has an individual quest, so while most players have a common cause, they also have unique subplots as well, which can guarantee various degrees of &quot;winning&quot; based on whether or not they are completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, in Betrayal at the House on the Hill, all players start out allied with one another, but part-way through the game, a second phase, the Haunt, begins, and based on semi-random conditions one player is determined to be the traitor, and is pitted against the rest of the team. Either the traitor or the &quot;heroes&quot; will win, and the other(s) will lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, it is possible, in certain cooperative games (Arkham Horror/Eldritch Horror, Forbidden Island/Forbidden Desert, etc.) where the players are generally wholly cooperative and playing against the board, rather than each other, for the team to win, but for one or more PCs to have died during the game. So if, for instance, in a game of Arkham Horror, you have five Investigators and you defeat the Ancient One (or win before it awakens), but two Investigators die over the course of the game, the argument could be made that the three players who survived &quot;won&quot;, while the other two either didn't win, or &quot;lost&quot;; since total player death is considered a lose condition, it makes sense that if some, but not all, players die, not all players have &quot;won&quot; the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this all depends strongly on how you are defining winning, losing, and the grey area in between, if indeed there is any (I would argue there is, but I can certainly see the argument for the binary win/lose system) but my ultimate answer is &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt;, with some caveats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15659" LastActivityDate="2016-03-17T18:26:10.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T04:20:09.363" Score="0" ViewCount="241" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any theory or advice in how best to plan declarer play in a 4-4 trump fit. In what situations do you draw trumps, in what situations do you not draw trumps and any other advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3196" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:46:58.893" Title="Declarer play for a 4-4 trump fit" Tags="|bridge|fit|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29348" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-18T05:45:28.750" Score="1" ViewCount="2094" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions don't say (from what I see) and I need to know for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15667" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T09:32:52.457" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T09:32:52.457" Title="How many times can you use a port in settlers of catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29348" CreationDate="2016-03-18T05:54:43.493" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;As many times as you want. Almanac, page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Example: Nick, the orange player, built a settlement at the ore&#xA;  special harbor. Nick may exchange 2 ore cards for any 1 other&#xA;  Resource Card. He can also trade 4 ore cards for any 2 other cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T06:00:02.490" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T06:00:02.490" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16621" CreationDate="2016-03-18T07:09:16.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played Pandemic with some friends countless times and I think that attempting to play the game with more players (&gt;4) without some serious game modifications would result in unwieldy gameplay which is kind of not the point of the game. I have seriously thought about ways to allow for more players but they all entailed increasing deck sizes as well as decreasing the number of cards drawn per turn. The key to any such modification would be to reduce the duration of each player's turn of play without crippling the game, no easy task. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15669" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T07:09:16.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28226" CreationDate="2016-03-18T07:18:01.390" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Step 3 of the Combat phase in the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Resolve shadow effect. The active player flips that enemy’s shadow card faceup and resolves any shadow effect that card might have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only use the shadow part of the card when resolving shadow cards. When you flip a card like The Necromancer's Reach where there is no shadow effect, you are in luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastEditorUserId="15668" LastEditDate="2016-03-18T07:23:12.187" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T07:23:12.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29352" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29347" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:58:55.353" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The advantage of a 4-4 trump fit is that you may use either hand for ruffing, and draw trumps from the other hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the idea is to identify the hand with one (or more) suits that are shorter than the same suit in the opposite hand. Then lead &quot;long&quot; cards from the opposite hand into the short suit hand for ruffing. Use the trumps in the long card hand to draw the opposing trumps. The reason you ruff first is because if you draw trumps first, you may not have enough trumps left in the short suit hand for ruffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T13:58:55.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16621" CreationDate="2016-03-18T13:59:20.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tend to play pandemic with 8 players, but then in teams of two. &#xA;Because it's a cooperative game, everyone always feels included, even if they have to share their turn :) Like this, there are only 4 players in the game, but 8 people sharing their strategies, which makes for a lot of discussion! (and fun)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More than 4 players, while it can be done, will definitely increase difficulty!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12563" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T13:59:20.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29301" CreationDate="2016-03-18T16:09:37.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I should think that the simplest solution would be to randomly select 16 of the 25 dice. You could do this by setting up the 5x5 game as normal but then removing one row and one column. You won't get exactly the same probabilities but it should be close enough to make little practical difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T16:09:37.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29356" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29347" CreationDate="2016-03-18T18:46:58.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Count, count, count; and when you are done counting, count some more. Count your tricks, count your losers, and count your winners; count the opponents' distribution and count your opponents' points and count your opponents tricks. When the cards have all been returned to the board you can start counting the next board. Until you are the best player in the world, and perhaps not even then, you can stop looking for more things to count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Notrump contracts you are advised to plan your play from the count of your tricks. Do this as Dummy comes down, as there is no point to a line of play that is not based on an expectation of sufficient tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In suit play you are advised to plan your play from the count of your losers. Do not play from Dummy until you have a line of play for the entire hand that has an expectation of reducing your losers below 7 - (level of bid). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to the estimable &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1344/tom-au&quot;&gt;Mr. Au&lt;/a&gt;, there is no magic formula for where to ruff or when. Esoteric plays arise from adjusting his rules to suit the need and count of a particular hand. There also is frequently a need to partially draw trumps when one needs to ruff, either for tricks or control. One particularly common scenario is to leave a single boss trump out and then cross ruff, forcing that opposing trump to over ruff a single trump of your own rather than a pair, leaving the other as counter to a loser elsewhere. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T18:46:58.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5689" CreationDate="2016-03-18T23:39:47.120" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;What I tend to do is use the silver and smithy start, and then use villages, throne rooms and smithys to draw my entire deck. I also try to get golds during this time too. Finally, it may be a good idea to grab one or two cellars and buy enhancing cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15676" LastActivityDate="2016-03-18T23:39:47.120" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29360" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-19T10:35:22.897" Score="13" ViewCount="1129" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot of the strategic advice I've read for Dominion seems to be based around honing your deck based on fixed criteria - which cards are good, which work well together, when to start buying Provinces, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But Dominion is a multi-player game, and clearly you are affected by the decisions that your opponent(s) make. Are they going for lots of attack cards, a &quot;big money&quot;-type strategy, or focusing on one particular action card? Are they ahead of you on points at a given moment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: how much is it important to consider the actions of your opponent(s)? Are &quot;good strategies&quot; always fairly good, and just need tweaking on the basis of what your opponent(s) do? Or is there a lot of game theory involved, such that your decisions depend almost entirely on what others are doing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advice in the question &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/381/what-are-good-standard-tactics-for-dominion&quot;&gt;What are good standard tactics for Dominion?&lt;/a&gt; has only one answer of a few lines that addresses what your opponent(s) are doing. Surely there is more to it than that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T11:22:33.103" Title="How important is game theory in Dominion?" Tags="|dominion|game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29360" CreationDate="2016-03-19T13:04:15.940" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some cards are very dependent on the actions your opponents, and some are not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Tribute&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tribute&lt;/a&gt; if you see your opponent to the left buy lots of different cards, don't buy it if they are not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in most cases, if  your strategy can be influenced by opponents actions, then it is best to proactively consider those potential influences even before they are made. You cannot quickly change strategies in dominion; once you commit to one, your course is mostly set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Embargo&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Embargo&lt;/a&gt; is an example: when your opponent starts to pursue a strategy that requires many cards of a particular type, e.g, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Conspirator&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Conspirators&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Cultist&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cultists&lt;/a&gt;, then you can buy embargo to stop them from acquiring those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if your opponent would be able to disrupt your strategy with an embargo, it is probably a bad idea to pursue that strategy in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or take &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Young_Witch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Young Witch&lt;/a&gt;: if your opponent buys lots of bane cards, you probably do not want to buy young witches, and if your opponent buys lots of young witches, you want to buy bane cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if the bane is a card that your opponent can easily buy without disrupting their flow, then buying young witches is a bad idea even before your opponent starts reacting to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or take &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Possession&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Possession&lt;/a&gt;: If your opponent buys possession, you definitely do not want to buy any &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Masquerade&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Masquerades&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Ambassador&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ambassadors&lt;/a&gt;, and need to get rid of your existing ones as soon as possible, because if they possess you while you hold one of these in your hand, they can steal your provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you see that Possession is on the board, you may want to hold of on buying those Masquerades and Ambassadors in the first place. (Thought  Ambassador and Masquerade are both very strong opening cards, so you may still want some anyway).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is, an optimal strategy has to consider all the &lt;em&gt;potential&lt;/em&gt; actions of your opponent, so it will most likely only need minor tweaking based on what your opponent actually does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are lots of specific counters that work well against a particular card: &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Jack&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jack of all Trades&lt;/a&gt; vs &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Ghost_Ship&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ghost Ship&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Minion&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Minion&lt;/a&gt; vs &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Alchemist&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alchemist&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Monument&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Monument&lt;/a&gt; vs &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Possession&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Possession&lt;/a&gt;. But in most cases, if a card can easily be countered, you should not buy it in the first place. So if everyone plays at a high level and avoids mistakes, there is little need to react to your opponents actions &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; they make them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some general guidelines: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see your opponents going for a strategy that will get them a lot of points, but will take a lot of time, you are best served in pursuing a strategy that nets less points over time, but can end the game sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I.e. if they ramp up their engine to buy all the provinces in a single turn with a mass bridge combo, buy some provinces and try to end the game on three empty piles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you see your opponents in a 4+ player game buying lots of attack cards, focus on buying cards that help you instead of hindering others, since your opponents will take care of attacking each other for you. When three other players distribute curses, you will only get slightly more curses than the other players if you refrain from distributing curses yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2767" LastEditorUserId="2767" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T13:11:07.097" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T13:11:07.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29362" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29364" CreationDate="2016-03-19T15:00:20.540" Score="5" ViewCount="2017" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a way to build an EDH deck that makes sure my opponents have fun while playing against me. In other words I'm less concerned with winning than with doing fun/creative/interesting things with my deck. I want the group to say &quot;Wow, that's cool&quot;. I've never tried to build a non-competitive deck that focuses on something other than winning. So what are some mechanics that would be considered fun by the opponents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14089" LastActivityDate="2023-08-11T14:02:53.120" Title="What kind of mechanics can make MTG fun for my opponents?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29362" CreationDate="2016-03-19T15:11:42.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played much EDH, but I can imagine that these kinds of decks are NOT fun:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mass land destruction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too many counter spells / mass destruction&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;You can't&amp;quot; decks. E.g. Thalia, Sphere of Safety, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you have to deal with opponents eventually, so here might be some cards that can swing the tides in your favor while being &amp;quot;cool&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ezuri%20Predation&quot;&gt;Ezuri Predation&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clone%20Legion&quot;&gt;Clone Legion&lt;/a&gt; to handle / fight opponents creatures with your own.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ridiculous red/black spells: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Descent%20of%20Dragons&quot;&gt;Descent of Dragons&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghastly%20Conscription&quot;&gt;Ghastly Conscription&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Whims%20of%20the%20Fates&quot;&gt;Whims of the Fates&lt;/a&gt;(might be controversial, likely highly entertaining), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Worst%20Fears&quot;&gt;Worst Fears&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;quot;Battlecruiser magic&amp;quot; mostly big, flashy spells/creatures (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hydra%20Broodmaster&quot;&gt;Hydra Broodmaster&lt;/a&gt; for a ridiculous number of tokens)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just play a theme deck that isn't too oppressive. Slivers might be a bit too strong. Elves/goblins/humans/zombies/angels/demons/giants/enchantments/soldiers/whatever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-03-19T15:22:35.190" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T15:22:35.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29362" CreationDate="2016-03-19T18:56:03.303" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't mechanics specific, but theming is a good way to go. Themes can be based on Magic blocks with poor synergy or underpowered mechanics, like Kamigawa block (which likely will just make people laugh), or themes can be pulled from outside of the game, like trying to make a Lion King themed deck (or something else you like). Themes limit your options while being interesting to watch, especially if other players know the theme. Half the fun of out of Magic themes is in players trying to guess how specific cards fit into the theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I'm currently working on an Apocolypse deck (not the block, the out of Magic concept). The commander will be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Child%20of%20Alara&quot;&gt;Child of Alara&lt;/a&gt;, with the four horsemen of the apocalypse as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Iroas%2C%20God%20of%20Victory&quot;&gt;Iroas, God of Victory&lt;/a&gt; (War), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mogis%2C%20God%20of%20Slaughter&quot;&gt;Mogis, God of Slaughter&lt;/a&gt; (Death), &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phiraka%2C%20God%20of%20Affliction&quot;&gt;Phiraka, God of Affliction&lt;/a&gt; (Pestilence), and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Phenax%2C%20God%20of%20Deception&quot;&gt;Phenax, God of Deception&lt;/a&gt; (Famine). After getting these five cards set, the next step of the deck was to find cards that included the name of the four horsemen, so things like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sudden%20Death&quot;&gt;Sudden Death&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=War%20Elemental&quot;&gt;War Elemental&lt;/a&gt;. This doesn't quite fill up the deck, especially if you're avoided hated cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Death%20Cloud&quot;&gt;Death Cloud&lt;/a&gt;, so the rest of the deck is made up of mechanics that fit the four horsemen's mechanics. This included some mill for Famine, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimpse%20the%20Unthinkable&quot;&gt;Glimpse the Unthinkable&lt;/a&gt;, and some extra sacrifice for Death like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cruel%20Edict&quot;&gt;Cruel Edict&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you'll notice is that this deck isn't very synergistic and it will play differently every game. Competitive decks are tuned to play identically every time even though you only have 1 of every card. The theming will take away that consistency and will be fun to watch. And generally, you're going to have to put a decent amount of thought into the cards in a theme deck to make sure you're staying on theme, so it's going to take as much thought to produce as a well-tuned competitive deck. This process has the added benefit of causing you to think about Magic in a way you wouldn't normally, and maybe you'll find some playstyle or set of interactions you hadn't ever done before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T08:56:43.030" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T08:56:43.030" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29365" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29362" CreationDate="2016-03-19T21:37:07.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not sure if this is what your looking for but of course one way to make people happy is to play cards that help everybody, by letting players get mana, draw cards, or any other beneficial &amp;quot;each player&amp;quot; card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples of cards that opponents may like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Howling%20Mine&quot;&gt;Howling Mine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Font%20of%20Mythos&quot;&gt;Font of Mythos&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20Bell&quot;&gt;Temple Bell&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Prosperity&quot;&gt;Prosperity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Walking%20Archive&quot;&gt;Walking Archive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kami%20of%20the%20Crescent%20Moon&quot;&gt;Kami of the Crescent Moon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rites%20of%20Flourishing&quot;&gt;Rites of Flourishing&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heartbeat%20of%20Spring&quot;&gt;Heartbeat of Spring&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Weird%20Harvest&quot;&gt;Weird Harvest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hunted%20Wumpus&quot;&gt;Hunted Wumpus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=New%20Frontiers&quot;&gt;New Frontiers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oath%20of%20Lieges&quot;&gt;Oath of Lieges&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5Bjoin%5D+%5Bforces%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Join Forces cards&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-03-19T21:37:07.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29366" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29368" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:49:20.363" Score="5" ViewCount="3008" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I am eliminated by an exploding kitten, the instructions say to discard all my cards, including the kitten. So they go to the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if I play a combo of five cards, can I take the kitten from the discard pile? And if so, what happens with it? There is nothing in the rules prohibiting me from taking the kitten, and also nothing about what happens with the kitten. Is it just dead weight, or does it actually explode?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15632" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T12:45:41.213" Title="What happens to exploded kittens?" Tags="|exploding-kittens|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29367" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29454" CreationDate="2016-03-19T23:56:47.750" Score="0" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;The bleeding condition reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;(One action): Discard this card or token. For each other action you resolve while you have this card or token, suffer 1 (one fatigue)&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should &quot;each other action&quot; be interpreted to mean that every 2 actions my hero takes, the effect of bleeding is applied? Or should &quot;each other action&quot; be interpreted to mean that the effect of bleeding should be applied once to every action that is not the above noted &quot;discarding&quot; action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7220" LastEditorUserId="7220" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T14:10:33.520" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T02:21:04.720" Title="Descent (Nerekhall expansion) bleeding mechanics" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29366" CreationDate="2016-03-20T01:06:58.473" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wording on the exploding kitten card from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.explodingkittens.com/explodingkittensrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You must show this card immediately. Unless you have a Defuse card, you’re dead. Discard all of your cards, including the Exploding Kitten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That wording does not indicate that it only happens when you draw it from the deck. So no matter how the card gets into your hand, once it is in there you will have to follow the instructions for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-11-25T12:45:41.213" LastActivityDate="2019-11-25T12:45:41.213" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27891" CreationDate="2016-03-20T06:05:34.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;With a time control, you could play on the infinite board. A player could be forced to pass when the time limit is reached. Eventually, both players pass (unless somebody resigns before) and the game is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess, you could play on an infinite board without time control, but to make the game finite, you need to have a limited supply of stones. Basically, than would mean that a stone group that is far enough from others could be considered to be on a separate board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could keep a running score estimate (captures + territory), and once a player hits a predefined score limit, the player wins and the game ends. You just have to exclude the outside territory (that reaches to infinity) from the score, otherwise Black wins with the first move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another interesting approach could be, after a predefined number of steps to start game running, to have an arbiter (or a computer) to end the game after each move with a small probability. So, you never know beforehand when there is the last move, but the expectation of the game length is finite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With either approach the game would be different from the regular Go because of lack of the usual interaction with the board edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15689" LastEditorUserId="15689" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T21:59:35.127" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T21:59:35.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29371" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T08:42:13.070" Score="1" ViewCount="49" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like playing board game with my 3 year old son. But it can be boring sometimes for me. Is there a game that is designed to be playable by a 3 year old, but also interesting for the adults playing it? Maybe different rules for the players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15691" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:47:37.050" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T23:47:37.050" Title="Board game fun for 3 year old AND parent" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-03-20T17:47:33.047" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29373" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29379" CreationDate="2016-03-20T14:25:43.803" Score="4" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing in Flight A-X of a sectional Open Pairs, both Vulnerable at MatchPoints in third seat you hold: (Flight A is 2000+ MPS; Flight X is 0 - 2000 MPS voluntarily playing up instead of at their own level - the up and comers.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S:J9865&#xA;H:T9&#xA;D:53&#xA;C:AT94&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the auction proceeds:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;P  1H  P  2D&#xA;P  2NT P  6NT all pass&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponents are an unbalanced pair (possibly pro-client) with the stronger member on your right as declarer. (in other words, LHO maybe trained to get NT contracts into her partner's hand when possible/reasonable.) Their system is a fairly straightforward Two-Over-One card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the best opening lead and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional considerations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A blind lead from Jxxx is a well-known terrible lead, often killing your Jack. This is less true when holding a 5-card suit, but not irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If partner doesn't hold at least the queen in one of the red suit opponents may be able to run 13 tricks once they are on lead - that would be a sure bottom if you haven't cashed the CA. Partner can hold a couple of Jacks and that still leaves opponents with a bare 33 HCP that runs 13 tricks once in.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;RHO's 2NT rebid is likely showing any hand that might open a weak 1NT if playing that system; so in the range 12-14. It certainly is not showing any extra values overall, but may or may not be showing stoppers - sometimes it is best NOT to ask, because every question you ask also has the potential of guiding declarer's play. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;RHO and I go back &gt; 30 years, so there can be the possibility of a little personal rivalry in play - or not. He is a very good player with &gt; 6,000 ACBL MPs, all earned and non &lt;em&gt;bought&lt;/em&gt;, but LHO is likely weaker.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T21:58:12.073" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T04:49:04.287" Title="What is the best opening lead on this hand, and why?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29374" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29373" CreationDate="2016-03-20T17:26:36.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's clear from the bidding that declarer dominates hearts and dummy dominates diamonds. By bidding their respective no trumps, each party probably showed &quot;fillers&quot; in the other's suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With only two tricks needed for a set, the fifth spade doesn't matter as much as the fact that your jack is &quot;fourth tier,&quot; which is to say that it is too remote to be a trick. Therefore, it seems like the defense's best bet is in clubs. If the bidding led straight to a 33 hcp no trump declaration, I'd lead the ace of clubs, take the sure trick and hope to get a non-bottom. If partner can score a red suit queen (or any other card), that would be gravy. One advantage of leading the ace is that you get to see dummy before making your second lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given the surrounding circumstances, there's a real possibility that the opponents have less than 33 points, and that they are stretching for the 6NT contract with 30-32. (I have retracted my other earlier comments about the bidding because they just cause confusion.) You have five points, and partner may have more than two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So instead of having one queen, it's possible that your partner has two. (There's also a small chance that partner has the king of clubs, instead.) If both of those queens are red suit queens, the one that's &quot;offside&quot; a finesse should score after a lead of the ace of clubs. Suppose it's one red suit queen and one black suit queen (chosen at random). Which black suit queen can help you more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead of the ace, I might lead the &lt;em&gt;ten&lt;/em&gt; of clubs, hoping to set up a second club trick if partner has the queen, and either the king or the jack is in dummy. (And if this doesn't happen,partner will lead back a club if he gets in with a red queen.) On the other hand, if partner has the queen (or even king) of spades, it would take a second round of spades before the jack comes into play on the third round. That is to say, you have two club tricks if and when partner takes his red queen and leads back a club. But you might not get either a club or a spade trick if partner leads back a spade based on an opening spade lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In cases like this (only two tricks needed to &quot;set&quot;), I prefer to lead a short strong suit (clubs) rather than a long weak one (spades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-03-20T23:01:14.000" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T23:01:14.000" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29375" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29301" CreationDate="2016-03-20T19:20:53.027" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Summary&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best sixteen dice to pick in order to produce the lowest Kullback-Leibler divergence from the (new) standard Boggle distribution are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;AAEEEE, ADENNN, AEEGMU, AFIRSY, BJKQuXZ, CEILPT, CEIPST, DHHLOR, DHLNOR, DHLNOR, EIIITT, EMOTTT, ENSSSU, FIPRSY, GORRVW, NOOTUW&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The divergence for this set of dice is 0.0226, and it provides at least one of every letter.  This dice set provides about 10% more words than official Boggle, and about 13% more points (from an average grid).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Background&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bananagrammer.com/2013/10/the-boggle-cube-redesign-and-its-effect.html&quot;&gt;two different standards&lt;/a&gt; for 16 dice Boggle, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/300883/letter-distribution&quot;&gt;one for 25 dice&lt;/a&gt;.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are multiple ways to measure the 'closeness' of two sets of Boggle dice. A comment on the question suggests &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kullback%E2%80%93Leibler_divergence&quot;&gt;Kullback-Leibler divergence&lt;/a&gt;. Another simpler metric would be a count of the number of incorrect letters which I've referred to as the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taxicab_geometry&quot;&gt;Manhattan distance&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most interesting quality of a Boggle dice set is probably how easy it is to make words during a game, so I decided it was also worth investigating the average number of words in a grid, and the average score (if a player found them all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* The BGG thread mentions another Big Boggle distribution that contains a AEMNNS die, but the set was incomplete, so I didn't include it here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Method&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote &lt;a href=&quot;https://ideone.com/WQ68T4&quot;&gt;a Python script&lt;/a&gt; to search through all combinations of sixteen dice from the twenty five provided in Big Boggle. For each set of dice I measured the Manhattan distance and the Kullback-Leibler divergence from both the new and old standard Boggle dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once I had the optimum set of dice for each metric, I used a &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/benhoyt/boggle/blob/master/ben.py&quot;&gt;Boggle solver&lt;/a&gt; to simulate 10,000 games of Boggle with them, and counted the number of words and the total score available in each grid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Results&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Metric | Old/New | Best selection of dice                                                                                                                                          | Distance (using metric)&#xA;KL     | New     | 'AAEEEE', 'ADENNN', 'AEEGMU', 'AFIRSY', 'BJKQuXZ', 'CEILPT', 'CEIPST', 'DHHLOR', 'DHLNOR', 'DHLNOR', 'EIIITT', 'EMOTTT', 'ENSSSU', 'FIPRSY', 'GORRVW', 'NOOTUW' | 0.0226049400407&#xA;KL     | Old     | 'AAAFRS', 'AEEEEM', 'AEEGMU', 'AEGMNN', 'AFIRSY', 'BJKQuXZ', 'CEIILT', 'CEILPT', 'CEIPST', 'DDHNOT', 'DHHLOR', 'DHLNOR', 'ENSSSU', 'FIPRSY', 'GORRVW', 'NOOTUW' | 0.0403229165488&#xA;Manh.  | New     | 'AAAFRS', 'AAEEEE', 'AEEGMU', 'AFIRSY', 'BJKQuXZ', 'CEILPT', 'CEIPST', 'DDHNOT', 'DHHLOR', 'DHLNOR', 'DHLNOR', 'EIIITT', 'EMOTTT', 'ENSSSU', 'GORRVW', 'NOOTUW' | 12&#xA;Manh.  | Old     | 'AAAFRS', 'AAFIRS', 'AEEEEM', 'AEEGMU', 'AEGMNN', 'AFIRSY', 'BJKQuXZ', 'CEIILT', 'CEILPT', 'CEIPST', 'DDHNOT', 'DHHLOR', 'DHLNOR', 'FIPRSY', 'GORRVW', 'NOOTUW' | 16&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It turned out that the optimum dice sets all contained every letter of the alphabet, which seems like it should be a requirement for a game of Boggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simulating 10,000 games with each set, and using a Boggle solver, I found the following results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Dice set      | Average number of words in grid | Average maximum score in grid&#xA;Original New  | 87                              | 113&#xA;Original Old  | 83                              | 105&#xA;KL New        | 96                              | 128&#xA;KL Old        | 92                              | 122&#xA;Manhattan New | 99                              | 132&#xA;Manhattan Old | 92                              | 121&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We used four different methods to pick 'the best' sixteen dice from Big Boggle, and it seems that any of the sets of dice are reasonably suitable for playing a game of standard Boggle with. The old standard Boggle dice are slightly harder to play with than the new dice, and it follows that it is also harder to play with the Big Boggle selections which were optimised towards the old Boggle standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the Big Boggle dice sets produced more words and higher scores than the original Boggle dice sets, and this may be due to the presence of dice like AAEEEE, AEEEEM and EIIITT in Big Boggle, which help to avoid consonant-only grids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, Boggle is a pretty popular game, and is not too hard to pick up a second hand copy from a charity shop. If you really want to play standard Boggle then getting a copy might be easier than separating out the right set of dice each game, and you'll also get a four-by-four box to shake the dice in!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T19:20:53.027" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29377" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-20T21:26:40.247" Score="3" ViewCount="787" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Cities rules, players can lose coins and incur debts. The rules mention that a player can either pay coins or take Debt tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this allow a player to choose to take Debt tokens in lieu of paying coins in general (for example, if a card has coins in its cost)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, is it only possible to incur debts when a card explicitly requires a player to discard coins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15696" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T09:55:52.823" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T09:55:52.823" Title="Can Debt tokens be taken to pay any coin costs?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29377" CreationDate="2016-03-20T21:33:49.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may only take Debt tokens if a card with the Debt icon would cause a loss of coins for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you may not decide to take Debt tokens instead of paying for a building (or for anything else).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Source&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/10939/3532&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for the Cities expansion explain the Debt mechanic on page 4. The first paragraph starts with &quot;A card with the [Debt icon] symbol&quot;, and no other condition is mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FAQ (also linked from the answer linked above) contains this Q &amp;amp; A:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Can a player chooses to gain debt tokens?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: No, only the black cards with this symbol [Debt icon] can cause players to incur debts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-20T21:44:41.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29373" CreationDate="2016-03-20T23:54:52.390" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suspect you won't get a unanimous answer if you asked a number of top experts.  What follows is my guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 6N was bid confidently, that should mean most of the field (since it's a fairly good field) is in the same slam.  I lead the Ace of clubs and take my 45%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If 6N was not bid confidently, I lead a spade.  My partnership agreements are usually that non-honor leads at slams are meaningless (b/c declarer can usually use the info better than partner), so I lead a random non-honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am in a swinging situation where I am fairly confident I want top or bottom, I lead a diamond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated to add explanation&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If opponents have 12 tricks no matter what, it's quite likely that they have 13 tricks outside of clubs, or at least they have 12 tricks and can squeeze me in the black suits for the 13th.  (This includes those situations where declarer has no choice but to finesse my partner's heart honor to get to 12 tricks as well as situations squeezing partner (unsuccessfully) in a red suit+clubs and me (successfully) in the black suits for the 13th.)  So I have to lead AC if I think they'll make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is a way to beat the contract, it's quite possible leading AC sets up their 12th trick (for example if their clubs are Kx opposite QJxx).  Indeed, it's quite possible they have 10 or 11 tricks outside of clubs and can set up 1 or 2 more tricks in clubs.  Hence you need to hit partner's king immediately.  The heart king would be useless since hearts are probably with declarer.  That leaves spades and diamonds, with spades more likely because of the bidding.  Spades is also better because there are holdings where partner has the diamond king and the contract goes down except on the lead of the AC, whereas a diamond lead when partner has the spade king and nothing else probably means opponents end up with 1 spade, 5 in each red suit, and a club.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(But there definitely are holdings that require a diamond lead - most of these involve marked finesses against your Jack of spades.  Hence it's a reasonable swinging lead.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If one has to lead the 9 or 6 of spades, I think the 9 is better.  If opps have 7 spades (say A52 in dummy vs QT74 in hand), the 6 is more likely to induce declarer to try to drop the KS singleton (either in desperation for trick 12 or hope for trick 13).  Not that I'd think through this at the table.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A low club hoping to hit partner's king or queen might seem like a good idea, but I very much doubt that LHO bid 6N without neither the ace nor king of clubs (even if 2N promised stoppers).  If partner has the queen and opponents need exactly one club trick, they are more likely than not to get the finesse wrong if you don't lead clubs but right if you do, since a lead of a club strongly suggests you don't have the queen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastEditorUserId="13579" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T04:49:04.287" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T04:49:04.287" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29380" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T02:49:22.013" Score="2" ViewCount="14530" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Scrabble, if you make a new word and one of your letters adds onto another word making a whole new word, but this letter falls onto a double word score and you want to count it for the higher word score (the word you added the letter to) can you do this?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My dad is trying to say you can only count the double word score for every &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; word you make but by adding this one letter to a previous word, I think I am making a new word so that should count as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15698" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T13:29:20.747" LastActivityDate="2018-08-14T03:18:53.530" Title="Which words count for a double word score?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-08-15T17:12:15.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29381" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29380" CreationDate="2016-03-21T04:02:48.357" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do what you want here (score the modified word and the entirely new word).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All that matters is whether you play a tile on a premium square. If you do, you'll get the bonus, for that tile or the word(s) containing it, as appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if someone plays &lt;code&gt;CLOUD&lt;/code&gt;, with a double-word score square just after the end of it, and you play &lt;code&gt;SWORD&lt;/code&gt; off of that, forming &lt;code&gt;CLOUDS&lt;/code&gt; as well, you'll get double score for both &lt;code&gt;CLOUDS&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;SWORD&lt;/code&gt;. You could also just add the &lt;code&gt;S&lt;/code&gt; and score for &lt;code&gt;CLOUDS&lt;/code&gt;, but hopefully you can do better!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll only get the bonus once, on the turn when a tile is played on the special square. Once it's covered, it's used and it might as well not be there. But it applies to everything relevant on the turn when you do play on that square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://scrabble.hasbro.com/en-us/rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; (in the scoring section):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The score for each turn is the sum of the letter values in each word(s) formed or modified on that turn, plus the additional points obtained from placing letters on Premium Squares.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Letter and word premiums count only on the turn in which they are played. On later turns, letters already played on premium squares count at face value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T19:57:00.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29383" CreationDate="2016-03-21T07:05:30.980" Score="12" ViewCount="1345" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to understand why my solution to this tsumego is incorrect. It's &quot;Basic problem #26&quot; from &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.lrstudios.android.tsumego_workshop&quot;&gt;Tsumego Pro&lt;/a&gt; and looks like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------------------&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . X . O X . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . X O . O O O |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . X . X O O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . , . . . . X X X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The built-in correct solution is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . X 3 O # 1 2 |&#xA;$$ . . X O . O O O |&#xA;$$ . X . X O O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . X X X X . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(alternatively, after (2), with black playing at the marked position again and white taking once more by playing at (1), and only then black playing at (3)). I understand why this solution is correct, just not why mine isn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is my solution, which the program marks as incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . X 1 O X 2 . |&#xA;$$ . . X O . O O O |&#xA;$$ . X . X O O X . |&#xA;$$ . . . X X X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(white's response at (2) is built into the program, the rest of the white moves aren't).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . X X O . O . |&#xA;$$ . . X O a O O O |&#xA;$$ . X . X O O X b |&#xA;$$ . . . X X X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If black now takes the ko at (a), the only thing white can do (that I can see) is play at (b) in order to try escaping on the right side. It can't play anywhere on its inside because that would essentially be suicide, and because for black winning the ko means connecting its two groups, I don't see any possible white threat that black would have to respond to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . X X O . O . |&#xA;$$ . . X O 3 O O O |&#xA;$$ . X . X O O X 4 |&#xA;$$ . . . X X X X . |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . . . |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . X X O . O . |&#xA;$$ . . X 5 X O O O |&#xA;$$ . X . X O O X O |&#xA;$$ . . . X X X X 6 |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 7 8 |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . 9 0 |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could now continue all the way to the bottom of the board (not shown), at which point the white group has no liberties left except for the eye-and-a-half at the top. If white decides to stop running away, I still don't see anything forcing it could play to stop black from closing (e.g. at (10)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end black can take:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$m37&#xA;$$ ----------------&#xA;$$ . . X X O 1 O 3 |&#xA;$$ . . X X X O O O |&#xA;$$ . X . X O O X O |&#xA;$$ . . . X X X X O |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O |&#xA;$$ . . . . . . X O |&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;with no useful response (38) for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is it that I'm missing? Where could white have lived?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T16:08:58.570" Title="Why is this tsumego solution wrong?" Tags="|go|tsumego|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29382" CreationDate="2016-03-21T07:25:28.140" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;In tsumegos where you should kill a group, the best (and thus correct) answer is always the solution where you kill unconditionally (if possible). Only if there is no unconditional kill the ko would be the best (correct) solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that a tsumego is a local fighting position which you should solve without knowledge of the rest of the board. In your example, the rest of the board could either be that white has more ko threats or that black has more ko threats. Thus, your solution would depend on the unknown rest of the board, whereas the unconditional kill works always.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, if there is a position with equal outcome you should always prefer the way without ko. Even if you have more ko threats now, the position might change over time and therefore it is better to avoid the ko from the beginning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T07:25:28.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29360" CreationDate="2016-03-21T08:52:17.583" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the clearest examples of game theory in Dominion shows up quite frequently in 2 player endgames, and it's called the Penultimate Province Rule (PPR). Basically, you should avoid buying the &lt;em&gt;second to last&lt;/em&gt; Province if buying the remaining Province would allow your opponent to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Imagine a game where my opponent and I each have 3 Provinces, with 2 left in the supply. My opponent also has 4 Estates, while I only have 3. If I buy the penultimate Province, my opponent will probably buy the last one on his turn and win by a point (27-28). Instead of doing that, it's better for me to buy a Duchy (even with $8 or more). Now my opponent is in the same situation I was just in - if he buys a Province, I can get the last one on my turn and win (30-28). So his best option is to get a Duchy as well. We'll both continue to avoid the second-to-last Province, doing a &quot;Duchy dance&quot; until somebody's deck falls apart from the extra green cards or the Duchies run out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, knowing what your opponent is likely to do, and is capable of doing, is extremely important. Sometimes it's necessary to break PPR and hope that your opponent isn't able to snag the last Province, and it's good if you can time it so that this is more likely - perhaps you were able to attack, or maybe the opponent just had to shuffle at an inopportune time, or maybe he just missed putting his Alchemists on top. If you have to break PPR, it's best to keep an eye on what your opponent is doing so you can find the best time to strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="12631" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T11:22:33.103" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T11:22:33.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29299" CreationDate="2016-03-21T09:49:06.740" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are three determining factors for how high the highest Elo rating for a given game will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Internal aspects of the rating system: First an foremost how the ratings are initialised. If you start out with everybody getting a rating of 2000, the numbers will stay higher than if everybody gets 1800. But also K-factor (how strong ratings fluctuate) and other details that might lead to inflation or deflation. So this is your arbitrary difference part of the answer.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The level on which a game is played, i.e. how close the top players are to the human maximum playing strength. This depends a lot on how many players do play the game, how it is supported financially and what resources there are to get really strong. It strikes me as very likely that chess is played on a higher level than go, because chess players have had the benefit of superhuman helpers for at least 15 years now. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The depth of the game, i.e. how big the difference between a beginner and the best (possible) human player would be. Here go is clearly ahead of chess, but I doubt this has much to do with the game tree complexity. Rather this is an effect of the broad drawing range in chess. If you reduce the drawing range in chess, for example by shortening the time control, you get &quot;go-like&quot; Elo ratings in chess. On chess servers with fast time controls &lt;a href=&quot;http://chess.kivij.info/icc.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ratings in excess of 3600&lt;/a&gt; are not unusual.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13214" LastActivityDate="2016-03-21T09:49:06.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29386" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T10:42:55.127" Score="2" ViewCount="1237" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules already specify that when multiple players have the same Monster Card, all monsters of that type will activate when any single monster acts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When drawing new Monster Cards, if you already have the monster you draw, you discard it and draw again. However, some effects result in players passing Monster Cards around (causing monsters to activate more or less often).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player ends up with two of the same Monster Card, do they activate both monsters twice during their Villain Phase? Or do you put both cards together and activate the pair of them at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T14:44:49.777" Title="What happens when a player controls multiple identical monsters?" Tags="|dnd-adventure-system|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29388" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-21T18:22:07.447" Score="2" ViewCount="8166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm curious I started magic with my mother yesterday and she doesn't like house rules only official rules. Can I discard a card from my hand and draw a card from my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15703" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-03-21T18:32:22.653" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T12:37:52.773" Title="When can I discard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29388" CreationDate="2016-03-21T18:26:08.863" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Discard at will? No. You either discard when instructed by a game rule (more cards than hand size at the end of your turn), when instructed by an ability (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Enhanced%20Awareness&quot;&gt;Enhanced Awareness&lt;/a&gt;'s), or to pay a cost (such as for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rummaging%20Goblin&quot;&gt;Rummaging Goblin&lt;/a&gt;'s ability). If you aren't instructed to discard, you can't. Similarly, you can't just draw a card to replace any card you discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T12:37:10.473" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T12:37:10.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29390" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29392" CreationDate="2016-03-21T20:45:10.500" Score="1" ViewCount="358" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if an army is holding and has more support than an army attacking     it?  It didn't say in the copy of the rules on Wikipedia.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15704" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T23:52:54.043" Title="Over-success when holding in Diplomacy" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29391" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29395" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:26:11.727" Score="5" ViewCount="2727" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently got Legendary: Dark City and it seems like there's a misprint on the Vertigo card from the Marauder villains. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Her card says: Each player discards their hand then draws as many cards as they discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately it lacks a designation of either &lt;strong&gt;Fight,&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Escape,&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Ambush,&lt;/strong&gt; so we had no idea when the effect was supposed to take place. Has any official word come out on which trigger her power works off of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12783" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T01:31:23.040" Title="When does Vertigo's villain action happen?" Tags="|legendary-marvel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29390" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:27:26.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Units can move to another area. If the area is occupied, it is seen as an attack. And that needs to be resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each unit (either moving or held) has a value of 1. And each unit that successfully supports a unit, adds 1 to the total value. And the total values are compared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are now three possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The attacking unit has a higher value. The attack wins and the defending unit must retreat (or is disbanded).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The attacking unit has the same value as the defender. The attack fails. Both units stay at their own area.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The defending unit has a higher value. The attack fails. Both units stay at their own area. (There is no additional advantage to the defender because of the higher value).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T07:54:16.843" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T07:54:16.843" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29382" CreationDate="2016-03-21T22:51:34.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Black move 1 reduces the &quot;three in a row&quot; from two eyes to one. White cannot protect his &quot;second&quot; eye at 3 until he kills the marked stone (in red) with 2, because it would be self atari. Black then quashes the potential second eye with 3, and White is dead (for sure). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Black plays 1 at 3, White will play in the middle of &quot;three in a row&quot; to create a sure eye in the corner, and &quot;half&quot; an eye on the third space from the edge. To prevent the &quot;half&quot; eye from becoming a second eye, Black has to fight a ko at A. He's likely to win it, and kill the White group, but White will be able to make a ko threat elsewhere on the board to get several points of compensation. Having to fight a ko to kill the White group (and losing &quot;several&quot; points) is not nearly as good as killing it for sure, as above, without additional loss, which is why the second answer is incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T16:08:58.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T16:08:58.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29388" CreationDate="2016-03-21T23:51:52.477" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only draw one card during your draw step. At the end of your turn, if you have more than 7 cards in hand, you must discard until you have 7 cards in hand. These are standard rules that always apply unless a spell or ability commands you to do otherwise. When discarding you are not allowed to redraw to replace the card unless a spell or ability allows you to do so. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Library%20of%20Leng&quot;&gt;Library of Leng&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anvil%20of%20Bogarden&quot;&gt;Anvil of Bogarden&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grafted%20Skullcap&quot;&gt;Grafted Skullcap&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Heightened%20Awareness&quot;&gt;Heightened Awareness&lt;/a&gt; are examples of spells that affect how you draw and discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15598" LastEditorUserId="15539" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T12:37:52.773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T12:37:52.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29391" CreationDate="2016-03-22T01:31:23.040" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to a developer from Upper Deck on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/12598741#12598741&quot;&gt;this BoardGameGeek post&lt;/a&gt; Vertigo's power should be a &lt;strong&gt;Fight&lt;/strong&gt; effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T01:31:23.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29407" CreationDate="2016-03-22T07:54:59.863" Score="3" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Lords of Waterdeep expansion card Impersonate Tax Collector lets you take the main benefit and the owner benefit on your buildings. Are both of these rewards part of the action of assigning an agent to that space, or is the owner benefit separate? If it is part of the same action, it should trigger other plot quests, such as Bribe the Shipwrights.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If a player has completed Impersonate Tax Collector and Bribe the Shipwrights, and controls The Three Pearls, when they assign an agent to this building do they get the extra rogue from Bribe the Shipwrights?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Impersonate Tax Collector says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you assign an agent to a&#xA;  Building you control, you also gain the owner benefit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bribe the Shipwrights says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Whenever you take an action that provides any&#xA;  coins, also take 1 Rogue from the supply and place it in your tavern.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Three Pearls has an owner benefit of two coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13100" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T13:33:15.160" Title="Are the owner benefits from Impersonate Tax Collector part of an action?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29397" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T14:43:16.087" Score="4" ViewCount="743" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play affinity and seriously struggle with control players and can't seem to find a way to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue Moon has become popular recently, and while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blood%20Moon&quot;&gt;Blood Moon&lt;/a&gt; does not cripple my deck the constant counters to anything I do just stagnate the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394613&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kolaghan's Command&lt;/a&gt; kills 2 artifacts at once, normally a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mox%20Opal&quot;&gt;Mox Opal&lt;/a&gt; and creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My damage cards (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbound%20Ravager&quot;&gt;Arcbound Ravager&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Etched%20Champion&quot;&gt;Etched Champion&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Plating&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt;) are countered with spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Leak&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My creatures are constantly hit with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Telepath%20Unbound&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Snapcaster%20Mage&quot;&gt;Snapcaster Mage&lt;/a&gt; lets them replay them. My land are also destroyed this way if I try to use them as creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What strategy's can be used against a deck that mainboards more removal than I have playable cards and after the first round can add in specific artifact hate ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Decklist&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=master%20of%20etherium&quot;&gt;master of etherium&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=signal%20pest&quot;&gt;signal pest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=etched%20champion&quot;&gt;etched champion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=arcbound%20ravager&quot;&gt;arcbound ravager&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=ornithopter&quot;&gt;ornithopter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=memnite&quot;&gt;memnite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=vault%20skirge&quot;&gt;vault skirge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=galvanic%20blast&quot;&gt;galvanic blast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=thoughtcast&quot;&gt;thoughtcast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=mox%20opal&quot;&gt;mox opal&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=spring-leaf%20drum&quot;&gt;spring-leaf drum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=cranial%20plating&quot;&gt;cranial plating&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=darksteel%20citadel&quot;&gt;darksteel citadel&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=inkmoth%20nexus&quot;&gt;inkmoth nexus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=blinkmoth%20nexus&quot;&gt;blinkmoth nexus&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;3x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=glimmervoid&quot;&gt;glimmervoid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=island&quot;&gt;island&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Sideboard&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=spellskite&quot;&gt;spellskite&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=steel%20overseer&quot;&gt;steel overseer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=torpor%20orb&quot;&gt;torpor orb&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=tormod%27s%20crypt&quot;&gt;tormod&amp;#39;s crypt&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;2x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=gitaxian%20probe&quot;&gt;gitaxian probe&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;4x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=shrapnel%20blast&quot;&gt;shrapnel blast&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=blood%20moon&quot;&gt;blood moon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;1x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=glimmervoid&quot;&gt;glimmervoid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1434" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T05:36:41.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T15:40:36.953" Title="How do I beat U/R control with Affinity?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29398" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-22T15:30:33.580" Score="5" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ice Witches from &quot;A Spider's Web&quot; have the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ice Witches collect 1 Winter marker for each Magic Source they control at the end of their Redeployment phase. At the end of their Redeployment phase, Ice Witches may place their Winter markers in their own Regions or any adjacent Region (there cannot be more than 1 Winter marker per Region though). A Winter marker permanently augments the Region's defense by 1. It remains on the board as long as the Ice Witches are active. Regions with a Winter marker that are not controlled by an Ice Witch earn 1 less Victory coin than usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial reading of this was that you earned Winter markers on one turn and could use them on the next. This was due to the fact that both earning and using Winter markers happens on the same trigger - the &quot;end of the Redeployment phase&quot;. In other words, by the time you've earned that turn's markers, the trigger that allows you to use them has already passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be similar to how the Fireball special power works, although that power specifies that Fireball markers are to be used on subsequent turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On further thought I realised I was &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; reading into it too much and that the power is intended to be used immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still is there any verification as to which way is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T06:47:10.197" Title="Can Ice Witches use Winter markers on the turn they were earned?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29397" CreationDate="2016-03-22T16:19:51.443" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card you're probably having problems with is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kolaghan%27s%20Command&quot;&gt;Kolaghan&amp;#39;s Command&lt;/a&gt;. But, that spell is 3 cmc, so the earliest they can do it is turn 3. If you're ramping up properly, by turn 3 you should be able to handle it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Affinity is supposed to be fast, so if you don't have the possibility of turn 1: Land, mox opal, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=springleaf%20drum&quot;&gt;springleaf drum&lt;/a&gt;, 0-drop creature, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Plating&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt;, you're probably too slow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Barring that, fight fire with fire: run a couple &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dispel&quot;&gt;Dispel&lt;/a&gt; or other counters. If you don't want to go that route, a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cavern%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Cavern of Souls&lt;/a&gt; can make some of your creatures uncounterable. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Aether%20Vial&quot;&gt;Aether Vial&lt;/a&gt; can help you flash in creatures and dodge most counters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T16:46:19.570" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T16:46:19.570" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29401" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29402" CreationDate="2016-03-22T20:09:05.917" Score="2" ViewCount="32133" Body="&lt;p&gt;Me and my mom had a small conflict over this. Can you summon token creatures if you have the token, without a card effect that says to use it? I don't think so, but I don't know how to verify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15703" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-03-24T12:22:57.887" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T12:22:57.887" Title="How are creature token cards used?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-03-22T23:14:16.600" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29401" CreationDate="2016-03-22T21:19:34.093" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I summon a token?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;standard&amp;quot; way to cast a spell is to follow these steps (this is an extremely condensed version of comprehensive rule 601.2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Take the card out of your hand and put it on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce the spell (e.g., &amp;quot;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elvish%20Mystic&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;.&amp;quot;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay the costs of the spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens are not real Magic: the Gathering cards. They cannot exist in your hand. They do not have mana costs. You cannot add tokens to your deck. The rules simply do not allow you to cast them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are &amp;quot;tokens&amp;quot;, exactly?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens are markers that represent permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.5. Some effects put tokens onto the battlefield. A token is a marker used to represent any permanent that isn’t represented by a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How are tokens created?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes something like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells and abilities create effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Effects create tokens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What about those cards that come with booster packs that look kinda like real cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Those are tokens, and again, they are not real Magic: the Gathering cards. They exist only to give you, the player, something to use as a marker. They usually look like the thing they are representing, which makes them far more player-friendly than, for example, a die, or a piece of torn paper. You can't exactly turn a die sideways to show that it is tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:19:34.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6527" CreationDate="2016-03-22T21:28:42.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most playing card decks I played with here in Hungary usually come with 3 jokers. They have circled stars in the corners. Two of the jokers have black stars, one of them have red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15593" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T21:28:42.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29390" CreationDate="2016-03-22T23:47:07.803" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A unit holding that has &lt;strong&gt;more&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;or equal&lt;/em&gt; &lt;em&gt;valid&lt;/em&gt; support &lt;strong&gt;to hold&lt;/strong&gt; than its attacker stays put (wins).  Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example 0: Greater Valid Support To Hold&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Brest supports Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Paris Holds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Belgium supports Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Ruhr supports Pairs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paris's support plus itself is 3 strong, and Gascony's support plus itself is 2 strong, so the defense is greater and Paris holds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example 1: Equal Valid Support To Hold&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Brest supports Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Paris Holds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Belgium supports Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paris's support plus itself is 2 strong, and Gascony's support plus itself is 2 strong and the tie does to the defender so Paris holds&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example 2: An invalid support&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Brest supports Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Paris Holds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fleet Belgium supports Paris (* invalid -- you can only support where you can move *)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paris's support from Belgium was invalid, so it doesn't exist.  Paris is at one strong, and Gascony's support plus itself is 2 strong and so Gascony wins and Paris is dislodged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Example 3: A support of a move instead of a hold&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Brest supports Gascony -&gt; Paris&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Paris Holds&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Army Belgium supports Paris -&gt; Brest (* invalid -- Paris isn't trying to move to Brest *)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Paris's support from Belgium wasn't to hold, so it doesn't help.  Paris is at one strong, and Gascony's support plus itself is 2 strong and so Gascony wins and Paris is dislodged.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="727" LastEditorUserId="727" LastEditDate="2016-03-22T23:52:54.043" LastActivityDate="2016-03-22T23:52:54.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29398" CreationDate="2016-03-23T06:47:10.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They should be played the same round. The rule is not explicit and I have found no official statement. But &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1281097/ice-witches&quot;&gt;this topic on boardgamegeek took the same conclusion:&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All the magic sources do is indicate how many markers the Ice Witches may play at the end of their turn. Highlighted this bit as this is a rule we've got wrong a few times when playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T06:47:10.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29407" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29396" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:33:15.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Lords_of_Waterdeep_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ for Lords of Waterdeep&lt;/a&gt;, there is a question which seems to answer this question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: If a plot quest gives me resources for having taken an action, did I gain those resources as a part of taking the action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No. You gained the extra resources from the effect of the plot quest, not from the action itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 2: The benefits of plot quests, and the rewards for completing a quest, never count as being a part of an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your plot card(s) are what are giving you the benefit of the Owner's action, this would seem to indicate that you do not receive the extra resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T13:33:15.160" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29386" CreationDate="2016-03-23T13:39:52.783" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you didn't specify which specific game in the &lt;em&gt;Dungeons and Dragons Adventure System&lt;/em&gt; you're referring to, the following excerpt is from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/dnd/files/Wrath_Ashardalon_RuleBook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wrath of Ashardalon rulebook&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place a Monster on the new tile. To place a Monster, draw a Monster Card and place the corresponding Monster figure on the scorch mark of the newly placed Dungeon Tile. (The name of each Monster is printed on each figure’s base.) &lt;strong&gt;If you draw a Monster Card that matches a Monster Card already in play in front of you, discard that Monster Card and draw again.&lt;/strong&gt; If another player has a matching Monster Card, however, that’s okay &lt;em&gt;(emph added)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This states that you cannot have this situation, as you should have discarded the matching card in favor of a re-drawn, unique (to you) monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this doesn't answer, however, is when there is an option to pass a monster or being forced to pass a monster.  Looking through the rules of both old (i.e. Wrath of Ashardalon) and new (i.e. Temple of Elemental Evil), I don't see this directly addressed anywhere, even in FAQs.  However, I think that we can refer to the spirit of the rules rather than the letter of them in order to resolve this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One concept that &lt;strong&gt;does&lt;/strong&gt; occur frequently within the rules/FAQ is that no single player may have more than one copy of a monster.  So, if you attempt to pass a monster to the right, but your right neighbor has a copy, either that pass is forfeited or the attempted pass continues further to the right.  Given that there are monster cards that force passing, I believe that the intent would be to continue the pass further around the table.  If everyone else has a copy, then ultimately it winds up being passed back to the original owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastEditorUserId="14331" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T14:30:56.077" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T14:30:56.077" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29409" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29397" CreationDate="2016-03-23T15:10:47.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer really is to &lt;em&gt;go fast&lt;/em&gt;. I say this as a long time UR player in Modern. By go fast, I mean you want to pressure your opponent's life total and build big creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It looks like you have Master of Etherium in the main. That's a great card for you because it can often push your creatures out of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pyroclasm&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt; range. UR decks are typically Snap/Bolt decks. They rely heavily on damage based removal, so if you can bump your creatures out of that range (~ 3-4 toughness), you'll be doing the most good. Etched Champion has protection from just about any removal UR has, aside from countering it. If you can land an Etched Champion you are in very good position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Holding double black up to re-equip Cranial Plating at instead speed may be difficult, but it's a great way to get around targeted removal during the combat phase. They shoot your equipped Vault Skirge? Re-equip it onto your Ornithopter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play around counterspells, be aware of what the opponent has already played that game (and round) and take note of their open mana. They have one blue open and haven't played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Snare&quot;&gt;Spell Snare&lt;/a&gt; all game? Don't play your 2-drop. You can also try waiting to play multiple spells per turn. Counterspells will typically cost more mana to play than your creatures will, so even if a creature or two of yours gets countered save your best for last to get it on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, most blue decks (and UR especially) tend to board out counterspells against fast decks like affinity. They often bring things in like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shatterstorm&quot;&gt;Shatterstorm&lt;/a&gt;, so don't over-commit to the board. Be weary of sweepers as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are always the beatdown in this matchup, UR doesn't have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Splinter%20Twin&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt; anymore, so as long as you can keep dropping threats you will likely come out on top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12718" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T15:40:36.953" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T15:40:36.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29265" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:10:35.480" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The loop rules in the Comprehensive Rules do not cover these situations. However, a recently added section of the Magic Tournament Rules does address the scenarios in this question. Of course, the Magic Tournament Rules are not binding on casual &quot;kitchen table&quot; games, but it is reasonable to interpret them as a statement on how the game is intended to be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 4.4 of the Magic Tournament Rules addresses loops, and contains the following relevant excerpts. Remember that the Magic Tournament Rules are written in plain English, and should not be treated as formal logic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A loop is a form of tournament shortcut that involves detailing a sequence of actions to be repeated and then performing a number of iterations of that sequence. The loop actions must be identical in each iteration and cannot include conditional actions (&quot;If this, then that&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If no players are involved in maintaining the loop, each player in turn order chooses a number of iterations to perform before they will take an action to break the loop or that they wish to take no action. If all players choose&#xA;  to take no action, the game is a draw. Otherwise, the game advances through the lowest number of iterations chosen and the player who chose that number takes an action to break the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If one player is involved in maintaining the loop, they choose a number of iterations. The other players, in turn order, agree to that number or announce a lower number after which they intend to intervene. The game advances through the lowest number of iterations chosen and the player who chose that number receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If two or more players are involved in maintaining a loop within a turn, each player in turn order chooses a number of iterations to perform. The game advances through the lowest number of iterations chosen and the player who chose that number receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Loops may span multiple turns if a game state is not meaningfully changing. Note that drawing cards other than the ones being used to sustain the loop is a meaningful change. If two or more players are involved in maintaining a loop across turns, each player chooses a number of iterations to perform, or announces their intent to continue indefinitely. If all players choose to continue indefinitely, the game is a draw. Otherwise, the game advances through the lowest number of iterations chosen and the player who chose that number receives priority at the point they stop taking an action to sustain the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The judge is the final arbiter of what constitutes a loop. A player may not 'opt-out' of shortcutting a loop, nor may they make irrelevant changes between iterations in an attempt to make it appear as though there is no loop. Once a&#xA;  loop has been shortcut, it may not be restarted until the game has changed in a relevant way. Proposing loops as an effort to use up time on the clock is Stalling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on these rules, we would treat the scenarios in question as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is a loop that spans multiple turns, in which neither player is involved in maintaining the loop. Both players can only choose to take no action, so the game is a draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is the same as the first scenario, except that player 1 may choose to take an action. If player 1 chooses to take the only available action of playing Mox Diamond, the loop resumes but neither player has any more meaningful actions to take. Either way, the result is the same: eventually both players choose to take no action, so the game is a draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this scenario, both players can choose to attack or not, but neither Platinum Angel can die. A reasonable judge would rule that changes to life total are not meaningful changes to game state if neither player can possibly lose the game. Since neither player can take an action that meaningfully affects the game state, they can only choose to take no action, and the game is a draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This scenario is a multi-turn loop that both players are involved in maintaining. A single loop iteration here is any number of turn cycles with a fixed choice of whether each player attacks in their respective turns (I exclude blocks because a block would necessarily break such a loop). Each player in turn order chooses how many iterations to play out, or to play out indefinitely. If they choose to break the loop, they must take a different action. This may create a different multi-turn loop with similar parameters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A reasonable judge here would rule that decreasing a player's life total below 0 in this scenario does not constitute a meaningful change to the game state because it does not affect whether that player would lose if they stopped controlling a Platinum Angel. Therefore, we would eventually reach a state in which either both players choose to continue indefinitely, or neither player can take an action that meaningfully affects the game state (because both life totals are at 0 or less), or the loop is broken (because the Platinum Angels are dead and at least one player has a life total of 0 or less).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is in principle possible for a player to create a long sequence of slightly varying loops in this scenario, the last quoted paragraph indicates that doing so violates other tournament rules.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Mox Diamond is irrelevant, so this scenario plays out exactly like scenario 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This scenario plays out like scenario 4, except that player 1 has an additional action that they can choose to take. They are not required to take that action, but if they do they can easily win. If they don't, then it plays out exactly the same as in scenario 4.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;With just the Worldgorger Dragons, we have a sequence of unconditional triggers that cannot be broken or changed except in inconsequential details (which Dragon is reanimated). So this is an actual mandatory loop and the game is a tie. If there is also a Birds of Paradise in one graveyard, the player with the triggers can make a different choice and break the loop, so the loop is fragmented and the player must eventually break the loop.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A previous version pointed out the following problems with trying to use the Comprehensive Rules to address the scenarios in question, and described some guidelines that can be inferred from the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 716.3 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens, the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the rules do not rigorously or exhaustively define &quot;action&quot; or &quot;choice&quot;. They do not even specify what counts as the &quot;same&quot; game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 716.4 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw. (See rules 104.4b and 104.4f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the rules do not define &quot;mandatory&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 716.5 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One point of particular note here is that these rules explicitly mention &lt;strong&gt;objects&lt;/strong&gt; involved in the loops and actions called for by those objects. They make absolutely no mention of actions or choices called for by turn-based actions, which implies that these rules are not &lt;em&gt;intended&lt;/em&gt; to cover loops that cross phase boundaries. But we can distill a couple of guidelines from the intentions of those rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Based on 716.4, we can say that if no player can ever do anything to end the game, then they should agree to a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Based on 716.5, we can say that no player is required to cast spells or activate abilities to change the outcome of the game, even if that outcome is a draw based on the previous guideline.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2018-07-10T04:50:17.903" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T04:50:17.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29413" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:12:23.913" Score="3" ViewCount="1289" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're playing a 3 player game and hand out 1 card to each player, out of a deck of 3 ally and 1 traitor cards, how likely are the players all allies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the math is you have a (3/4)^3 or approximately %32 chance of everybody being an ally. Is this correct? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15723" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T20:06:24.453" LastActivityDate="2017-06-04T21:12:02.493" Title="Calculating the probability of NOT drawing a traitor card in Dead of Winter" Tags="|probability|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-03-23T18:40:58.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You math is slightly off because you aren't accounting for cards being removed from the deck. In order for all three to be allies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 gets the first card, where the ratio is 3:1. This means they have a .75 probability of drawing an ally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 gets the second card, but the ratio has been reduced to 2:1 since player 1 removed an ally. Player 2 has a .67 (rounded) probability of drawing an ally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 3 gets the third card, but the ratio is now 1:1, giving a .5 probability of drawing an ally.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we multiple those together (3/4 * 2/3 * 1/2) we get a &lt;strong&gt;total probability of .25 that all three players will be allies&lt;/strong&gt;, depending on how you want to round the 2:1 ratio.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-23T19:39:17.813" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T19:39:17.813" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-03-23T19:12:51.727" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deal out the four cards in a line.  How likely is it that the one on the far right is the traitor card?  1 in 4 right?  Now have the players pick up everything except the far right card.  What are the chances that they didn't pick up the traitor card?  It's the same question.  So your answer is still 1 in 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T19:12:51.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28227" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:11:13.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On page 15 of the Axis and Allies 1942, Second edition rulebook, it is stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Roll one die for each battleship and cruiser that can conduct bombardment…For each hit, the defender will move a defending unit behind the casualty strip.  These casualties will be able to defend during the land combat step before they are eliminated&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that not only does the AA gun in your scenario still get to fire, but so does the infantry unit that got knocked out by the bombardment as well, at least for one round of combat.  In addition, even if the lost AA gun didn't get to fire due to its destruction, the other still would, and the destruction of the first would therefore be irrelevant because in the description of AA guns, it says,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Only one antiaircraft gun can fire in a battle, no matter how many are in the territory&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In sum, both of the destroyed units in your scenario would have the ability to fire after naval bombardment phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15704" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T22:40:16.023" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T22:40:16.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29415" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29235" CreationDate="2016-03-23T20:15:32.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can download the game record (.sgf) file from &lt;a href=&quot;https://gogameguru.com/i/2016/03/Lee-Sedol-vs-AlphaGo-20160309.sgf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; and use an score estimator as in the KGS Goban (free), which will give you W+2.5 (including komi) and by looking at the screen we can see that AlphaGo could easily got additional points, so perhaps 5.5 as in the previous answer is the best estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15722" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T20:15:32.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9363" CreationDate="2016-03-23T22:32:14.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an update to other answers, Standard has changed to include the last 3 blocks of 2 sets, instead of 2 blocks of 3 sets. In addition, as core sets are no longer to be released, the blocks are changing from 5-8 sets to 5-6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So basically, the old standard was (with a few exceptions):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block A: Set 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block A: Set 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block A: Set 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core Set A&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block B: Set 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block B: Set 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block B: Set 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Core Set B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The new standard will be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block A: Set 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block A: Set 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block B: Set 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block B: Set 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block C: Set 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Block C: Set 2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a special case, during the transition, the Tarkir block is being split up:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Khans of Tarkir: (Block B: Set 1 &gt; Block A: Set 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fate Reforged: (Block B: Set 2 &gt; Block A: Set 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dragons of Tarkir: (Block B: Set 3 &gt; Block B: Set 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Magic Origins: (Core Set B &gt; Block B: Set 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15726" LastActivityDate="2016-03-23T22:32:14.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29417" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-24T08:05:54.337" Score="2" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Game of Thrones the assignment of each player to a house has a drastic impact on the way the game plays out.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the different ways to assign houses to players, and what are their advantages or effects? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2017-01-04T23:51:04.190" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T23:51:04.190" Title="How do we assign Game of Thrones houses?" Tags="|house-rules|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29417" CreationDate="2016-03-24T09:04:55.903" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Positions are assigned naturally, according to where people happened to be sitting when the game starts&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the setup phase of the game, people will have sat at the table to chat, help set up etc, or arrive later and sit without regard to the board game dynamics. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Announce the start of the game and tell people that's who they're playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Effect&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is an interesting twist on random. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;People may be unhappy about the position they get. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If people are aware of the seating process they can influence their position. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T10:10:29.433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T10:10:29.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29421" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-24T09:31:17.113" Score="5" ViewCount="584" Body="&lt;p&gt;In chess, algebraic notation is the standard for recording games and Portable Game Notation (PGN) is a format for importing games (notation plus metadata) into chess software or even forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Go books I read never use notation, only diagrams where moves are numbered. I played a few games against the Go software Cosumi. After a game, it allows me to replay (using a slider) and generates notation like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(;GM[1]FF[4]PB[COSUMI]PW[You]SZ[19]KM[6.5]RE[B+92.5]&#xA;;B[pd];W[dd];B[qq];W[dp];B[fc];W[ec];B[fd];W[ee];B[gf];W[fe]&#xA;;B[ge];W[ff];B[gh];W[fg];B[fq];W[gg];B[hg];W[ej];B[cf];W[dg]&#xA;;B[bd];W[ce];B[be];W[df];B[cd];W[de];B[iq];W[cg];B[db];W[dc]&#xA;;B[cc];W[eb];B[lq];W[bf];B[cb];W[em];B[ie];W[hh];B[hi];W[ih]&#xA;;B[gj];W[fh];B[gi];W[ii];B[ig];W[ij];B[gl];W[hk];B[gk];W[hn]&#xA;;B[fb];W[ea];B[fa];W[gm];B[mf];W[fm];B[mn];W[jl];B[pm];W[kn]&#xA;;B[oi];W[lh];B[kg];W[jh];B[nh];W[jg];B[jf];W[kh];B[ok];W[ml]&#xA;;B[dq];W[ep];B[cq];W[eq];B[er];W[cp];B[bq];W[bp];B[lg];W[mi]&#xA;;B[ap];W[ao];B[aq];W[bo];B[fp];W[fo];B[go];W[ho];B[gp];W[fn]&#xA;;B[nm];W[hp];B[hq];W[kp];B[kq];W[jp];B[mk];W[mj];B[lk];W[ll]&#xA;;B[nl];W[jq];B[jr];W[kk];B[lj];W[nj];B[oj];W[nk];B[mh];W[li]&#xA;;B[lp];W[lo];B[mo];W[mm];B[ln];W[ko];B[lm];W[kj];B[km];W[jm]&#xA;;B[ip];W[io];B[af];W[ag];B[ae];W[bg];B[da];W[jn];B[bb];W[ac]&#xA;;B[ni];W[kl];B[ga];W[gn];B[gr];W[ed];B[];W[])&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a Go standard similar to PGN? What websites and software can I import this into to generate diagrams for the whole game? I am hoping to analyse the games afterwards and post them on Go forums for stronger players to give advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15728" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T12:02:16.433" Title="Recording Go games and importing into software" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29421" CreationDate="2016-03-24T10:24:17.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That format is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smart_Game_Format&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;SGF (Smart Game Format)&lt;/a&gt;.  Pretty much all Go software can read it.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Eidogo&quot;&gt;Eidogo&lt;/a&gt; lets you work with it in your browser.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T12:02:16.433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T12:02:16.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29417" CreationDate="2016-03-24T13:18:46.937" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Where a player sits around the table has little influence on the turn order of the game. Straight out of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/a_game_of_thrones_the_board_game/media/agotbgrules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt;, on page 7 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your house position on the Iron Throne influence track abstractly represents the strength of your claim to be king as seen among the minor nobles, knights, and people of Westeros. In the game, &lt;strong&gt;the Iron Throne Influence track determines the Order of Play&lt;/strong&gt;, and the highest bidder also gains control of the Iron Throne token after all the bidding is resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The turn order is determined by the Iron Throne track, so it changes over the course of the game, and the player that starts at position one of the Iron Throne track is determined by your starting House. If the concern is House picking, that is also covered by the rules on page 3 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;6) Each player now &lt;strong&gt;randomly draws&lt;/strong&gt; a House Start Card to determine which house he will control for the rest of the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;House draw is supposed to be random, so following the rules here should prevent any shadiness among players. Randomization shouldn't favor any one player, so this should solve any problems with assignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such, feel free to sit anywhere around the table you want, as it won't impact the flow of the game too much. Although sitting closer to your starting location on the board is always a good idea so you don't have to reach across the table for everything you do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T13:18:46.937" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7391" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:05:44.020" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, the distinction must be made between the types of cooperative games. Some games are wholly cooperative (Arkham Horror, Pandemic, Forbidden Island) while others are cooperative/competitive (Betrayal at the House on the Hill, Coup, Middle Earth Quest). In the former, players are competing against the board and a randomized system of variables that control difficulty level and protect against perfect optimization, ensuring that no two games will ever play out in quite the same way. In the latter, some players group together against a player or another group of players, who takes on the role of antagonist (Sauron, in Middle Earth Quest, or the traitor in Betrayal at the House on the Hill, for instance.) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, purely cooperative games maintain their interest and their replayability factor by creating a randomized array of variables, such that the system itself becomes an enemy, and often quite a powerful one. Arkham Horror does this through a (generally randomly selected) Lovecraftian antagonist, monsters whose stats are hidden until a PC chooses to fight them, encounters at the end of every players individual turn and at the end of each collective round, etc. Pandemic pits players against the board in the form of four strains of a contagious disease, encouraging players to team up and use their individual special abilities to prevent the spread of, and ultimately cure, the diseases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Competitive/Cooperative games (which is what I've always known them to be called, but there may well be a more official term for them) generally rely on one player, or occasionally a few players, to be immensely overpowered, but to fight, on their own, the rest of the PCs. In Betrayal at the House on the Hill, for instance, the traitor is selected midway through the game once certain conditions have met. Which PC ends up as the traitor is determined by two random variables, and there are 50+ scenarios available, also based on these variables, which offers long term replayability. As there is one traitor and a group of heroes, the traitor must then be individually more powerful to stand a chance against the other PCs. So, the traitor is given their own set of rules, hidden from the rest of the players, which allow them more power and often remove for them some of the rules that were previously in play, such as limited movement. So, even if you are in the group of heroes, the game is still very competitive. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15659" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:05:44.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29421" CreationDate="2016-03-24T16:21:30.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to TimK answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good software to get diagrams out of it is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.godrago.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Drago&lt;/a&gt; :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has good editing capabilities (you can easily &quot;cut&quot; a variation branch, or move it around, etc) and is able to handle several formats in addition to SGF &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It also has very good Diagram printing (&amp;amp; exporting) capabilities&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is also great (and fast) to record a game without depending on an Internet connection [I sometimes do that, and I am first recording in Drago, and then I report the moves when the pace slows down on KGS/other online servers, so that I can follow the pace and also I can rely on the Drago version if I get disconnected].&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And I'm sure it has other qualities as well (I just use the above myself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4781" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T16:21:30.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29426" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29441" CreationDate="2016-03-24T21:15:00.210" Score="0" ViewCount="3194" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder allows you to copy spells for all your other creatures, as long as it only targets him. Thus, you will be casting a potentially large number of spells. Does every copy of the spell count towards a storm count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T17:52:32.290" Title="How does each copy of a spell cast to Zada, Hedron Grinder count towards Storm abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29426" CreationDate="2016-03-24T21:24:13.833" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately no. Storm counts how many spells were cast, where Zada just copies spells already on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Storm&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you cast this spell, put a copy of it onto the stack for each other spell that was cast before it this turn. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for any of the copies&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zada&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell that targets only Zada, Hedron Grinder, copy that spell for each other creature you control that the spell could target. Each copy targets a different one of those creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:24:13.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29426" CreationDate="2016-03-24T21:24:41.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only the original spell counts for storm. Zada creates the copies directly on the stack; they're never actually &lt;strong&gt;cast&lt;/strong&gt;. Storm only counts spells that were cast, not copies created on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:24:41.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29430" CreationDate="2016-03-24T21:50:56.980" Score="1" ViewCount="1588" Body="&lt;p&gt;Related Question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29426/how-does-each-copy-of-a-spell-cast-to-zada-hedron-grinder-count-towards-storm-a&quot;&gt;How does each copy of a spell cast to Zada, Hedron Grinder count towards Storm abilities?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast a storm spell that targets only Zada, Hedron Grinder (like Astral Steel) then I will have a copy of it for each of my creatures. However, If spells had already been cast this turn, then I will have more than one copy of the Storm Spell, a nd I could have each copy target Zada. &lt;strong&gt;Would the additional copies of the storm spell also trigger Zada's ability, thus giving me more than one copy of the spell per creature?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T00:43:48.417" Title="How does casting a Storm spell on Zada, Hedron Grinder work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29429" CreationDate="2016-03-24T21:55:53.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zada only makes copies of the original Storm spell, not the copies that it makes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zada has the text&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whenever you cast&lt;/strong&gt; an instant or sorcery spell that targets only Zada, Hedron Grinder, copy that spell for each other creature you control that the spell could target. Each copy targets a different one of those creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Storm&quot;&gt;the definition of Storm&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm is a triggered ability that functions on the stack. “Storm” means “When you cast this spell, &lt;strong&gt;put a copy of it onto the stack&lt;/strong&gt; for each other spell that was cast before it this turn. If the spell has any targets, you may choose new targets for any of the copies.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The copies of the spell that storm creates are put onto the stack, not cast, so Zada's ability does not trigger when that happens. So, Zada only makes copies of the original spell that you cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T21:55:53.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29433" CreationDate="2016-03-24T22:24:00.393" Score="1" ViewCount="697" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brand&quot;&gt;Brand&lt;/a&gt; is a red spell with which you &amp;quot;Gain control of all permanents you own&amp;quot;. What does this actually do? Wouldn't you already have control over your permanents? When would this card be useful? Does this apply to permanents that where exiled or sent to your graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T12:10:36.810" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T12:10:36.810" Title="What are the applications of brand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29431" CreationDate="2016-03-24T23:01:26.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brand&quot;&gt;Brand&lt;/a&gt; is a thematic counter to Blue's core &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Control%20Magic&quot;&gt;Control Magic&lt;/a&gt; mechanic; Red and Blue being natural enemies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contemporary uses could be to combine it with a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scrambleverse&quot;&gt;Scrambleverse&lt;/a&gt;.  After everything gets &amp;quot;Scrambled&amp;quot; you could take back everything that's yours, so you'd end up with whatever you managed to steal from other people plus all your original permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's also sometimes combined with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zedruu%20the%20Greathearted&quot;&gt;Zedruu the Greathearted&lt;/a&gt; in EDH decks to get back all of the things you've been giving away for a big finish.  (e.g., you might give away many enchantments then when you finally get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Opalescence&quot;&gt;Opalescence&lt;/a&gt; in play steal them all back.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past the rule for tokens was that a token's owner was the player who controlled the ability that created the tokens.  So you could follow a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hunted%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Hunted Dragon&lt;/a&gt; with Brand and steal back the tokens it created.  This no longer works after M10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would not apply to cards in zones other than the battlefield since by definition a 'Permanent' is a card on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T23:01:26.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29433" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29431" CreationDate="2016-03-24T23:11:15.183" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic has this definition for &amp;quot;permanent&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.1.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it’s moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Brand only cares about cards and tokens currently on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic has the following rules about ownership:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Card&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;108.3.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;The owner of a card in the game is the player who started the game with it in his or her deck.&lt;/strong&gt; If a card is brought into the game from outside the game rather than starting in a player’s deck, its owner is the player who brought it into the game. If a card starts the game in the command zone, its owner is the player who put it into the command zone to start the game. Legal ownership of a card in the game is irrelevant to the game rules except for the rules for ante.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5a&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; A token is both owned and controlled by the player under whose control it entered the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And one about control:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.2.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; A permanent’s owner is the same as the owner of the card that represents it (unless it’s a token; see rule 110.5a). &lt;strong&gt;A permanent’s controller is, by default, the player under whose control it entered the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt; Every permanent has a controller.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the permanents you own are the cards you put in your deck and the tokens you made, and you start out controlling the permanents that you put into play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cards that allow you to put cards your opponents own into play, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Beacon%20of%20Unrest&quot;&gt;Beacon of Unrest&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bribery&quot;&gt;Bribery&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gather%20Specimens&quot;&gt;Gather Specimens&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other cards let you take control of a permanent already on the battlefield, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Act%20of%20Treason&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blatant%20Thievery&quot;&gt;Blatant Thievery&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still others allow you to exchange control of a permanent you control and a permanent someone else controls, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Daring%20Thief&quot;&gt;Daring Thief&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shifting%20Loyalties&quot;&gt;Shifting Loyalties&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards even allow you to give an opponent control of a permanent you control, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Donate&quot;&gt;Donate&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zedruu%20the%20Greathearted&quot;&gt;Zedruu the Greathearted&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brand allows you to regain control of any permanents you lost control of in any of those ways. For example, you can exchange control of a bunch of permanents you control with permanents your opponent controls, and then cast Brand to get your permanents back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T23:11:15.183" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29434" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29435" CreationDate="2016-03-24T23:35:17.360" Score="1" ViewCount="654" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I start with an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ondu%20Cleric&quot;&gt;Ondu Cleric&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Allied%20Reinforcements&quot;&gt;Allied Reinforcements&lt;/a&gt;, how much health would I gain? I know it is somewhere between 4 and 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Posible options in my mind:&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;a. The tokens enter at the same time, but the rally ability only counts there being two creatures on at once: The Ondu Cleric, and the token who activated Ondu Cleric's ability. This happens twice, so 2&lt;em&gt;2 is 4. (Didn't seem likely, but hey, this might be the case)&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;b. The tokens enter one at a time, and the rally ability gives 2 health, then 3 health for a total of 5.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;c. The tokens enter at the same time, and the rally ability counts 3 creatures both times it is activated for a total of 6 (2&lt;/em&gt;3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Optional Question: What if I started with 2 Ondu Clerics on the battlefield? Would that just double the health gained, or would something else happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T00:02:15.003" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T00:02:15.003" Title="How is Ondu Cleric's Rally ability resolved when more than one ally enters the battlefield at once?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-25T07:04:16.383" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29435" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29434" CreationDate="2016-03-24T23:41:56.340" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When Allied Reinforcements resolves, the two tokens enter the battlefield at the same time.  Ondu Cleric will see both ally tokens enter the battlefield, and will have its ability trigger twice.  The number of allies on the battlefield is checked when the trigger resolves, so barring any other allies on the board, you will gain a total of 6 life ( 3 for each trigger).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had a pair of clerics on the board, each cleric would see both tokens enter, for a total of 4 triggers at 4 life per trigger, giving you a total of 16 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15732" LastActivityDate="2016-03-24T23:41:56.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29436" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-24T23:52:20.477" Score="3" ViewCount="1013" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Spin Uno instructions, if the last card played is a Spin card, the next player must spin the wheel and that action must be resolved so that any cards drawn or discarded also affect the points totaled. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notice the part that states &quot;...so that any cards drawn or discarded also affect points totaled.&quot;  This tells me that if the person spinning the wheel lands on Almost Uno, then they discard all but their last two cards and only the points from the last two cards count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent's last card is a Spin card, then I must spin the wheel and that action MUST be resolved.  So, my spin lands on Trade Hands.  That action MUST be resolved.  Does that mean my opponent has to take my hand, which resolves the action, and what happens to those points assuming the scoring method used is getting &quot;caught&quot; with points in your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opinion is that those points count against my opponent.  My opponent chose to use a Spin card as their last card, which required me to spin the wheel.  My spin landed on Trade Hands and the rules state I MUST resolve that action.  I have to trade hands with my opponent for that action to be RESOLVED; therefore, my opponent gets my remaining cards and I get no cards from them as they used the Spin card as their last card.  That means my opponent gets &quot;caught&quot; with those points.  Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15733" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T10:04:29.433" Title="Uno Spin; going out using a Spin card" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29438" CreationDate="2016-03-25T04:18:16.973" Score="3" ViewCount="8225" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a duel&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;, my opponent summoned in my field a monster card known as &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Lava_Golem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lava Golem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When was my turn, I entered in Battle Phase and I go to attack with Lava Golem, but I couldn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the description of the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Cannot be Normal Summoned/Set. Must first be Special Summoned (from your hand) to your opponent's side of the field by Tributing 2&#xA;  monsters they control. You cannot Normal Summon/Set the turn you&#xA;  Special Summon this card. During each of your Standby Phases: Take&#xA;  1000 damage.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering, why is not possible attack with Lava Golem. In the linked source and &lt;em&gt;in a quick Google search&lt;/em&gt; there's not mention about why such restriction exist in this monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I was playing the game version known as &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh! 5D's Tag Force 5.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15297" LastEditorUserId="22373" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:49:22.350" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:49:22.350" Title="Why wasn't Lava Golem allowed to attack on my turn?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29437" CreationDate="2016-03-25T04:43:15.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's been a while since I played Yu-Gi-Oh, and I haven't played with this card, but if you read it, it says it summons it to &lt;strong&gt;your opponent's side of the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;. Since your opponent is the one who summoned it, it goes to your side of the battlefield. Since your opponent graciously decided to give you this monster, you should be able to legally attack with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, it does 1,000 damage to you every turn, so... hopefully you kill him fast. When it says &quot;you take 1,000&quot; damage, that's not &quot;you the person who summoned him&quot; it's &quot;you the person who controls him&quot;, which right now is you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since this is an online rendering of the game, one can only assume that either 1) we have both misinterpreted the rules or 2) there is a flaw in their game logic that needs to be reported.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T05:10:48.140" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T05:10:48.140" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29440" CreationDate="2016-03-25T05:54:42.683" Score="2" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a sorcery (like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Press%20into%20Service&quot;&gt;Press into Service&lt;/a&gt; for example) has the support ability, would casting it and supporting only &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; activate his ability? Is the &amp;quot;targets only Zada&amp;quot; requirement met by the support? Or would the card have to specifically say &amp;quot;target creature&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T15:53:21.433" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:53:21.433" Title="Does a Sorcery with Support trigger Zada, Hedron Grinder's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29440" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29439" CreationDate="2016-03-25T07:03:51.147" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Support has &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Support&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this definition&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Support N” on a permanent means “Put a +1/+1 counter on each of up to N other target creatures.” “Support N” on an instant or sorcery spell means &lt;strong&gt;“Put a +1/+1 counter on each of up to N target creatures.”&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &quot;Support 2&quot; on Press into Service is the same as if the card actually had &quot;Put a +1/+1 counter on each of up to 2 target creatures&quot; printed on it. This means that yes, if you cast a spell with Support N, and the only target is Zada, Hedron Grinder, then the ability triggers and the spell is copied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, note that this is impossible with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=407649&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nissa's Judgement&lt;/a&gt; (and Press into Service if you want to actually take control of an opponent's creature), because they require you to choose another target besides the ones you support.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T15:43:21.163" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T15:43:21.163" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29426" CreationDate="2016-03-25T07:57:38.997" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Like the other answers, I'm saying &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;, copies created by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; don't count towards storm. But I think it's worth adding some explanation of why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Casting&lt;/em&gt; a spell is a specific process you go through. It's not something that just happens any time an object is placed on the stack. Casting involves moving a card (or copy of a card - more on that later) on to the stack, choosing modes and targets, and paying costs. The full process is described in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R601&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 601&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Zada's ability &lt;em&gt;copies&lt;/em&gt; a spell which was already cast. Therefore, the copy is &amp;quot;pre-cast&amp;quot; for you - in other words, it gets created, on the stack, in an already-cast state. You don't need to (and in fact, you can't) go through the process of casting it again. Since storm only counts the number of times you (or another player) go through the &lt;em&gt;process&lt;/em&gt; of casting, copies of spells don't contribute to storm, since they never went through that process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Naturally, this also applies to the copies created by the storm ability itself. They don't add to the storm count, which is important to know in case someone casts another storm spell later in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's not all that common, there are &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; cases in which you can copy something and still have it contribute to the storm count. Those cases involve effects which have you copy a (nonland) card somewhere other than the stack, and then cast the copy. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+%5B%22cast%20the%20copy%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Examples&lt;/a&gt;; see also &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R70298&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the cipher ability&lt;/a&gt;.) Here's the key difference: the thing you copy has not been cast, so the copy is created in an &lt;em&gt;uncast&lt;/em&gt; state. Once the copy is created, it works just like the original card. Casting it follows the normal process for casting, and so it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; add to the storm count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/5909/ivo-beckers&quot;&gt;Ivo Beckers&lt;/a&gt; for additional examples of casting copies.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T17:52:32.290" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T17:52:32.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29442" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29437" CreationDate="2016-03-25T08:34:46.140" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is might be a bug. In the normal card game, this is unambigious - there is no rule saying it can't attack, and if it's in your battle zone you're the controller so you get to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings:Lava_Golem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;known card rulings&lt;/a&gt; you'll see that apparently no one ever needed a ruling on whether or not it can attack; Presumably because it was obvious it can. The reason your opponent can play this card is because it allows them to destroy two of your monsters without triggering destruction effects, and also costs you 1k LP each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also on the wikia, you can find &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Tips:Lava_Golem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;card tips&lt;/a&gt; suggesting you disable the golem from attacking after summoning (e.g. using Swords of Light), further suggesting that it is, in fact, meant to be able to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Summarize: Card takes makes no indication that monster can't attack. No known rulings saying otherwise. Go ahead, report this as a bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;PS&lt;/strong&gt;: it only &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be a bug. I have not played &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh! 5D's Tag Force 5&lt;/em&gt; specifically, and some of the Yu-Gi-Oh! videogames use different rules than the published card game. It &lt;em&gt;probably&lt;/em&gt; is though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15738" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T08:34:46.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29447" CreationDate="2016-03-25T20:20:58.783" Score="0" ViewCount="691" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards recently &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/shadows-over-innistrad-mechanics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;changed the ruling&lt;/a&gt; for double faced cards: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if a DFC has an activated or triggered ability that transforms it, that permanent transforms only if it hasn't since that ability was put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok, so that means that you can't flip-flop a DFC card around with the ability on one side. Does that mean you can't activate/trigger the ability more than once, for other effects? (e.g. Elusive Tormentor's &quot;{1}, Discard a card: Transform&quot; and I want multiple Madness triggers)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-07T22:24:27.737" LastActivityDate="2017-10-07T22:24:27.737" Title="Double faced cards multiple transform triggers" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29446" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29448" CreationDate="2016-03-25T20:37:45.253" Score="3" ViewCount="1591" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Griselbrand&quot;&gt;Griselbrand&lt;/a&gt; in his graveyard and casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Animate%20Dead&quot;&gt;Animate Dead&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It resolves, causing the triggered ability to go on the stack which would bring Griselbrand back to play. In response, I &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disenchant&quot;&gt;Disenchant&lt;/a&gt; Animate Dead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend believes it would be the same as the bouncing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oblivion%20Ring&quot;&gt;Oblivion Ring&lt;/a&gt; trick-- the triggered ability would still activate, causing Griselbrand to come out, but the aura would be gone before its &amp;quot;leaving the battlefield&amp;quot; trigger has anything to target: i.e. Griselbrand comes out and stays out, while Animate Dead goes to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sounds right. Is it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-03-25T20:55:52.000" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T21:04:20.860" Title="What happens if I cast disenchant in response to the triggered ability of animate dead?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29445" CreationDate="2016-03-25T20:54:17.227" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Several points for the first question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Elusive Tormentor's ability is not triggered, it is activated. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Discarding the card is not part of its effect, but part of the cost, and there is no limit to how often you activate that ability. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Even if it was part of the effect, you could still activate the ability several times and discard several cards, because the discard and the flip would be separate effects. If one effect of a spell or ability gets prevented or replaced somehow, the other effects are not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T01:28:46.797" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T01:28:46.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29446" CreationDate="2016-03-25T21:04:20.860" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you destroy Animate Dead before the creature card it enchants returns to the battlefield, the creature card will remain in the graveyard and never enter the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the text of Animate Dead carefully:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Animate Dead enters the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;if it's on the battlefield,&lt;/strong&gt; it loses &quot;enchant creature card in a graveyard&quot; and gains &quot;enchant creature put onto the battlefield with Animate Dead.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Animate Dead enters the battlefield, it triggers its ETB ability. If someone responds with a Disenchant to destroy it, then by the time the ETB resolves, the aura will no longer be on the battlefield and the ability does nothing on resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Oblivion Ring trick you mentioned works only because its ETB ability does not have that condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T21:04:20.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23648" CreationDate="2016-03-25T21:25:33.217" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was initially on the side of &quot;it's not a rent&quot; (so is unaffected by mortgage state). But thinking about it, I've been forced to change my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial thinking was as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following cards levy fines, but are not considered &quot;rent&quot; for being on the Chance/Community Chest square, and hence set the &lt;strong&gt;precedent: card-based fees are not rent&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Make general repairs on all your property&quot;; &quot;Pay poor tax of $15&quot;; &quot;You have been elected the Chairman of the board - Pay each player $50&quot;. Community Chest: &quot;Doctor's fees&quot;; &quot;Pay Hospital fees of $100&quot;; &quot;Pay school fees of $150&quot;; &quot;You are assessed for street repairs&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following cards direct movement which could land you on an owned position, without giving instructions about rent to be paid, nor what may/should be done if the property is unowned. These cards set the &lt;strong&gt;precedent: buying or renting rules are unaffected unless stated&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Go Back 3 Spaces&quot;; &quot;Advance to St Charles' Place&quot;; &quot;Advance to Illinois Ave&quot;; &quot;Take a trip to Reading Railroad&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial point of view was based on these two precedents. They seemed clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then I thought further.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only one other card directs movement to an ownable square. This card sets the (far weaker) &lt;strong&gt;precedent: terms for buying unowned spaces are restated, if the rental terms are also modified on the same card&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Advance token to the nearest Railroad and pay the owner twice the rental to which he/she is otherwise entitled. If Railroad is unowned, you may buy it from the bank.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Utilities card remains ambiguous. The possible interpretations that I can see, are:&#xA;1) The card's fee is in addition to the rental mechanism; you roll dice to calculate the fee, and also separately calculate the rent, if the property is unmortgaged.&#xA;2) The card's fee modifies the rental mechanism; you never pay normal rent, and only pay the fee (as rent) if unmortgaged.&#xA;3) The card's fee replaces the rental mechanism; you never pay normal rent, but you always pay the fee, whether mortgaged or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1 is the only option you can go for, if you are arguing by the first two precedents, that &lt;em&gt;card fees are not rent&lt;/em&gt;; or that &lt;em&gt;rents are normal unless specified&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, you are arguing that the fee is a fare to get there, rather than a rent to stay there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yet, nobody is arguing for this option. Over and above the harshness of getting fined twice for a single event, there is a bigger problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When reaching Utilities by this card, if the property is owned and unmortgaged, the rent &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; be calculated as normal,&lt;/strong&gt; using $4x[the dice rolled to get there], as you arguably did not roll dice to get there. The dice you rolled took you to Chance, and you were sent to the utility by a card! $4x0 would be zero rent. No other card (such as &quot;Go back 3 spaces&quot;) can cause you to land on a utility, so it's just this card one which has this issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the card &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; be stopping the normal rent from happening. Which leaves the other two options. Is it changing that rent to a different amount, or is it getting rid of it entirely and replacing it with a taxi-fare to get there instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the precedent &quot;card fees aren't rent&quot; won't work here;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the precedent &quot;rent is unaffected unless stated&quot; won't work here;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the dice reroll seems designed to resolve that rental problem;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there's no other card which prevents rent payment;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there's no other property which can still earn when mortgaged;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Railroad card seems intended as a parallel;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the Railroad card doubles normal rent and respects mortgages...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...I'd rule for option 2: that the payment is intended to be a rent, and that mortgages should be respected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14259" LastEditorUserId="14259" LastEditDate="2017-04-20T16:47:33.723" LastActivityDate="2017-04-20T16:47:33.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24419" CreationDate="2016-03-25T21:45:26.747" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say that first, this is a game that is not meant to be played competitively or seriously. Second, disputes concerning challenges to the storyteller are generally best resolved by a concensus built among those neither challenging nor being challenged.  Given that people in this category  normally form a group no larger than 3, this consensus is generally quite achievable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15704" LastActivityDate="2016-03-25T21:45:26.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29452" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29453" CreationDate="2016-03-26T01:45:56.827" Score="8" ViewCount="5327" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArchangel%20Avacyn%5d&quot;&gt;Archangel Avacyn&lt;/a&gt; says (in addition to other abilities): &quot;When a non-Angel creature you control dies, transform Archangel Avacyn at the beginning of the next upkeep&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the triggered ability isn't the actual transform ability, but instead creates a delayed triggered ability, if you put it on the stack while another trigger wants to transform Avacyn, will she transform back? (e.g. Non-Angel died. Go to upkeep, another non-Angel dies. Will she transform back on the next upkeep?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="20266" LastEditDate="2019-03-21T19:26:59.063" LastActivityDate="2019-03-21T19:26:59.063" Title="New Transform Rules and Archangel Avacyn" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29453" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29452" CreationDate="2016-03-26T02:05:16.060" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Avacyn will not transform again at the following upkeep.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/shadows-over-innistrad-release-notes-2016-03-30&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;new rule 701.25e&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an activated ability of a permanent tries to transform that permanent, the permanent transforms only if it hasn't transformed since the ability was put onto the stack. The same is true for triggered abilities of a permanent that aren't delayed triggered abilities. &lt;strong&gt;If a delayed triggered ability of a permanent tries to transform that permanent, the permanent transforms only if it hasn't transformed since that delayed triggered ability was created.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Avacyn's ability creates a delayed triggered ability, so the last clause is the relevant one. So, the situation you describe plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A non-Angel creature dies. Archangel Avacyn's triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Archangel Avacyn's triggered ability resolves, and creates a delayed triggered ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of the next upkeep, the delayed triggered ability goes on the stack. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Another non-Angel creature dies. Archangel Avacyn's triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Archangel Avacyn's triggered ability resolves, and creates a second delayed triggered ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The original delayed triggered ability resolves. Archangel Avacyn has not transformed since that delayed triggered ability was created, so Archangel Avacyn transforms into Avacyn, the Purifier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of the following upkeep, the second delayed triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second delayed trigger resolves. &lt;strong&gt;Avacyn has transformed since the second delayed triggered ability was created, so she does not transform, and remains Avacyn, the Purifier.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T15:51:35.313" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T15:51:35.313" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29454" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29367" CreationDate="2016-03-26T02:21:04.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bit of rephrasing may help clarify the intent of this condition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(One Action):  Discard this card or token.  For &lt;strong&gt;any action, other than discarding this condition,&lt;/strong&gt; you resolve, suffer 1 fatigue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14331" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T02:21:04.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29455" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T03:19:46.223" Score="0" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a transport enter a hostile sea zone, that was cleared of hostile ships (during the combat phase), during the non-combat phase to pick up friendly units.  For example:  If the UK fleet N of Egypt destroys the Italian ships in the sea zone around Malta, during the combat phase, can a UK transport enter that cleared sea zone, during the non-combat phase to pick up UK units on Malta?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15746" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T20:29:30.697" Title="Axis &amp; Allies G40 Transport Question" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29456" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30263" CreationDate="2016-03-26T04:16:52.393" Score="2" ViewCount="844" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am in the process of painting an obscure Space Marine army of mine called the &lt;em&gt;Storm Giants&lt;/em&gt;. Due to having a similar name to the &lt;em&gt;Storm Lords&lt;/em&gt;, I was looking to include a campaign badge from either of the aforementioned campaigns. However, I am having trouble finding images online of badges from either campaign. &lt;strong&gt;Does anyone know where I can find these badges, or know what they look like?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-01T16:12:02.430" LastActivityDate="2017-04-01T16:12:02.430" Title="Does anyone know the Campaign Badges for the Second Purging of Lastrati or the 3rd War for Armageddon?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29598" CreationDate="2016-03-26T07:27:20.133" Score="2" ViewCount="1139" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Unique Asset &quot;Sealing the Old Ones&quot; allows one to discard spells when a Lore check is passed as a Spell Effect.  Glamour Spells from the Strange Remnants expansion don't have a Lore check in the standard main body of the spell, but rather have Lore checks as part of their reckoning effects, as if they are ongoing spell effects that get checked every reckoning for any side effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this reckoning effect Lore check count as a spell effect for the purposes of deciding to discard it to add an eldritch token to the Sealing the Old Ones Unique Asset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T09:06:23.830" Title="Are the reckoning effect Lore checks on Glamour cards considered spell effects?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-strange-remnants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29264" CreationDate="2016-03-26T14:54:10.983" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.courbis.fr/Boggle-quelques-statistiques.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This French page&lt;/a&gt; gives the following configuration for a 16 die Boggle version:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;code&gt;ETUKNO EVGTIN DECAMP IELRUW&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;EHIFSE RECALS ENTDOS OFXRIA&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;NAVEDZ EIOATA GLENYU BMAQJO&lt;/code&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;&lt;code&gt;TLIBRA SPULTE AIMSOR ENHRIS&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this French wikipedia article&lt;/a&gt; it is the configuration for the 'international' edition of Boggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume it is also the configuration for the Portugese 16-die version, since it is used for a Portugese Excel version of Boggle (see &lt;a href=&quot;http://br.ccm.net/faq/12814-o-jogo-no-excel-vba-le-boggle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T14:54:10.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29459" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T16:20:39.133" Score="2" ViewCount="299" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there specific patterns we can look in a single configuration of a square peg solitaire game which we can use to determine whether we can win the game from there or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15749" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2018-01-26T12:22:18.173" LastActivityDate="2018-01-26T12:22:18.173" Title="Determine the solubility of peg-solitaire (solo-noble)" Tags="|peg-solitaire|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29484" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:14:55.310" Score="0" ViewCount="270" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fury of Dracula 3rd edition, when hunter is defeated, he/she is temporarily removed from the board, and placed at the nearest hospital at the &lt;strong&gt;next dawn&lt;/strong&gt; (as per Rules Reference). This means that if it was a combat at dusk, the hunter skips their night action, and if it was a combat at dawn, the hunter skips both their day and night action, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T23:12:22.947" Title="Fury of Dracula 3rd ed. - Defeated Hunter and Skipping Actions" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:20:05.033" Score="2" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fury of Dracula 3rd edition, if a hunter who has a bats token under him/her gets defeated, does the bats token travel with the hunter to the hospital?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, since hospitals are adjacent only to the attached city, does this mean that Dracula actually helps the hunter by moving him/her to the attached city, thus sparing the hunter from having to spend the action to move to the attached city themselves? Or is the effect of the bats token suspended until it is more useful to Dracula (like in case of hunter already being delayed, or hunter being in a city with a fog token, see Rules Reference)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastActivityDate="2017-03-22T14:12:21.297" Title="Fury of Dracula 3rd ed. - Bats Token and Defeated Hunter" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29482" CreationDate="2016-03-26T19:55:19.827" Score="2" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fury of Dracula 3rd edition, does Dracula score 1 point &lt;strong&gt;whenever&lt;/strong&gt; 'Fangs' combat card is resolved, or only if it was resolved with night &amp;amp; mesmerized conditions met? I know the rules just say &lt;em&gt;&quot;when 'Fangs' is resolved&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, but the reason I'm asking is because of the way the text on the card is printed out, with no empty line above &lt;em&gt;&quot;Then, advance the influence track by 1&quot;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZNmSOm.png&quot; alt=&quot;Fangs combat card&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastEditorUserId="7556" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T22:23:15.563" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T22:49:03.820" Title="Fury of Dracula 3rd ed. - Fangs point scoring" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29455" CreationDate="2016-03-26T20:19:23.143" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Two opposing nations can't have units in the same zone simultaneously. But if the units of one side were &quot;eliminated&quot; in earlier fighting, then the surviving (attacker) can move units into the formerly disputed zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T20:19:23.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29464" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-26T21:24:39.737" Score="3" ViewCount="24300" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Go Out rule says if you discard your last card that can't be played ends the round. You can't discard to end the round if the card is playable and become a &quot;floater&quot; or in &quot;limbo&quot; till you're able to go out with the proper discard. Now, if you discard a &quot;SKIP&quot; card, does it end the round or put you as a&quot;Floater&quot; still? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15751" LastActivityDate="2018-12-06T06:53:23.590" Title="Phase 10 Go Out Rule" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29465" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29472" CreationDate="2016-03-26T22:09:45.203" Score="8" ViewCount="823" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am very newbie to Dominion. Looking at&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://dominionstrategy.com/2012/07/30/building-the-first-game-engine/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Smithy Village strategy&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;which has the following buying script&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$8 or more to spend: Province (if you have 5 or more Smithies)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$5: Duchy (if there are 3 or less Provinces left)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$2: Estate (if there are 2 or less Provinces left)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$6: Gold (max 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$5: Market (max 5)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$4: Remodel (1), otherwise Militia (1), otherwise Village (if you have&#xA;less Villages than terminal actions), otherwise Smithy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;$3: Village $2: Cellar (max 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;what does it mean if you have 5 or more Smithies? Does it mean 5 Smithies in my discard pile?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly when it says if there are 3/2 or less Provinces left are these in the supply pile? And max 2 or max 5 means 2/5 in the discard pile?&#xA;And if you have less Villages than terminal actions  means in the discard pile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally this is a buy strategy. What should the strategy be as far as which actions to play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15422" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:47:30.297" Title="Village/Smithy strategy" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29338" CreationDate="2016-03-26T22:31:00.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some of the strongest programs, like CrazyStone and Zen, have now reached the top 100 on KGS, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/top100.jsp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their current KGS ranking is available on this page&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sensei's library has a page dedicated to &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?KGSBotRatings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KGS bot rating&lt;/a&gt;, including highest rank, historical rating and current rating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of March 2016, CrazyStone and Zen19X are KGS 7d, Hira is KGS 5d. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.remi-coulom.fr/CrazyStone/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;According to his author&lt;/a&gt;, CrazyStone has become considerably stronger thanks to deep learning. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Live charts:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/graphPage.jsp?user=CrazyStone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;CrazyStone&lt;/a&gt; -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/graphPage.jsp?user=Zen19X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zen19X&lt;/a&gt; -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/graphPage.jsp?user=DolBaram&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;DolBaram&lt;/a&gt; -&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.gokgs.com/graphPage.jsp?user=HiraBot&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hira&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2016-03-26T22:43:59.500" LastActivityDate="2016-03-26T22:43:59.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29467" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29481" CreationDate="2016-03-27T00:49:26.560" Score="1" ViewCount="913" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Fury of Dracula 3rd edition, when Dracula plays Escape as Bat combat card, and decides to move to a new location, Dracula clears his current hideout, places a new location card there along with the face-up Escape as Bat card. But what about an encounter card? Does Dracula also place an encounter card on the new location, as he normally does?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7556" LastEditorUserId="7556" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T22:49:59.143" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T22:49:59.143" Title="Fury of Dracula 3rd ed. - Escape as Bat clarification" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:33:26.410" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Was wondering about the same thing. I could very quickly find pieces that had a difference in thickness of half a millimeter. And that is the smallest dimension, so that's where one would expect the smallest deviations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think if all pieces were exactly identical, and sanded to a very fine grit, then the game would be very different. Nothing would really move. Pieces would tend to stick together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm quite convinced that slightly different sizes are made and then mixed together to create each set. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15754" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T01:33:26.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29491" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:33:41.323" Score="2" ViewCount="580" Body="&lt;p&gt;When starting the Final Mystery in Strange Remnants, players are instructed to place a clue on the card for each solved active mystery.  Does this active mystery still remain relevant to the game, i.e.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do things that &quot;advance the active mystery&quot; still advance that active (not the final) mystery&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Does solving these mysteries place an additional clue on the card, or is it pointless once the card has been flipped?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T18:01:37.077" Title="Is the Mystery that is active when the portal opens in Strange Remnants still useful for progressing the investigators?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-strange-remnants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29470" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29471" CreationDate="2016-03-27T01:46:36.370" Score="1" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing 2 player (or solitaire) and playing the prestige bonus card, can you choose the second action to be the Consume, VPx2, scoring VPx5 (x3 from the prestige bonus, x2 from the Consume stage)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2074" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:47:59.517" Title="When using prestige bonus during two player, can I choose Consume VPx2 as my second action?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29470" CreationDate="2016-03-27T02:15:26.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The prestige bonus card applies only to &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; phase card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the 2-player advanced game, place the prestige/search action card and the action card for the other phase you selected, naming the phase receiving the prestige bonus as you flip your action cards over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So... you get exactly the appropriate bonus for the phase you choose to apply it to. It's easier to look at the nice pictures in &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=506&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;, but there are text descriptions as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consume: Trade&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sell a good, drawing 3 additional cards; then consume any remaining&#xA;  goods doubling the number of VP chips received (as the Consume +x1 bonus&#xA;  applies) and, optionally, discard up to two cards from your hand for 1 VP&#xA;  apiece.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Consume: 2x&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triple (not double) the number of VP chips (only) that you receive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the most VP you can possibly get is 3x (by applying it to the consume 2x), and if you want to get fancy trade bonuses (by applying it to the consume trade) you'll get 2x VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that in both cases, the prestige card &lt;em&gt;adds&lt;/em&gt; 1x VP. It doesn't actually say 2x or 3x on the card.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T02:47:59.517" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:47:59.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29465" CreationDate="2016-03-27T02:47:30.297" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;If you have 5 or more Smithies&quot; means if you have 5 total Smithies in your deck (your deck being all cards you have; between your draw pile, discard pile, hand, in play, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If there are 3 or less Provinces left&quot; means that the rule will only be followed when the Province pile is down to 0, 1, 2, or 3 Provinces. If there are still 4 or more Provinces in the Province pile, Duchies will not be bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Max 2 is like the first question; it means that once 2 Cellars have been bought total, no more will be bought.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategy for which actions to play is in this case programmed into the simulator. For the most part, it is trivial, though there are sometimes tricky decisions to make. For example, if you have some actions that give +1 action when played, and others that don't, you play the ones that give +1 action first. (If you play Smithy first, you can't play any other actions). If you have Market and Village, the order is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally, you would have to decide between playing a Smithy, a Militia, and a Remodel. Which is the best play would depend on a lot of factors including how late in the game it is, what else is in your hand, what is left in your draw pile, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The simulator has a list of cards programmed that are considered &quot;junk&quot; cards that will be discarded when Cellar is played. I believe these include any victory cards, as well as Curses and Coppers. This is because any cards you draw in place of those will, on average, be better to have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Welcome to Dominion!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T02:47:30.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29473" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33783" CreationDate="2016-03-27T04:24:29.440" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been looking over the combat benefits from the various force organisations granted by &lt;a href=&quot;http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iowHz2Qm6pA/VX42BoIEkJI/AAAAAAAAGpU/3Cp1oP5-yBg/s1600/1.JPG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gladius Strike Forces&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. The one that interests me is the 10th Company bonus where all units in this Company gain Concealment (Stealth until almost anything other than embarking, disembarking or shooting). However, I have a number of land speeder storms that act as dedicated transports that gain this status as well. So my question is &lt;strong&gt;if I disembark a concealed unit and its transport moves, does the entire unit loose concealment or just the Transport?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-30T23:52:34.330" LastActivityDate="2017-03-30T23:52:34.330" Title="How does &quot;Concealment&quot; transfer to Dedicated Transports?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29475" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29476" CreationDate="2016-03-27T16:33:12.490" Score="1" ViewCount="577" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &quot;Pathfinder Adventure Card Game: Skull And Shackles&quot; set.  One of my players is sick this week, so I've recruited a substitute.  We're partway through Adventure Deck 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I need to explain the rules of Pathfinder Adventure Card Game to my new player in a way that will bring him up to speed quickly.  Ideally I'd like to print out a cheat sheet.  I imagine it would say things like: &quot;Here's the list of things you do in your turn&quot; and &quot;here's what happens when you reveal a card, display a card, recharge a card, discard a card, bury a card, banish a card&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did some brief websearch and could not find a cheat sheet.  Does anyone know where I could find one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T17:15:11.680" Title="I need a cheat sheet for PACG" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29475" CreationDate="2016-03-27T17:15:11.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When looking for materials to help out with games, always check out boardgamegeek.com. In the case of your question, they have a downloadable 'rules summary and reference cards'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/151007/pathfinder-adventure-card-game-skull-shackles-base&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/151007/pathfinder-adventure-card-game-skull-shackles-base&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I know link-only answers aren't great, but the question really seems to be looking for a link...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T17:15:11.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29452" CreationDate="2016-03-27T19:01:15.377" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that Archangel Avacyn will only transform the one time. The reasoning behind this is that her transformed side doesn't give her the option to transform again like the werewolves have or even Arlinn Kord. Having her being able to transform back and forth due to a bunch of delayed triggers seems to go beyond the designer's intent. This would allow you to nuke the opponent's board and bolt them for every trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also this rule: 701.25d Some triggered abilities trigger when an object “transforms into” an object identified by name. Such an ability triggers only if that object didn’t have the specified name immediately before the transform instruction and does have the specified name immediately after the transform instruction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the ability tells you to transform Archangel Avacyn once she's transformed she no longer has that name and the ability won't try to transform her again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastEditorUserId="12760" LastEditDate="2016-03-27T19:06:41.067" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T19:06:41.067" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29479" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29752" CreationDate="2016-03-27T20:33:04.990" Score="4" ViewCount="2297" Body="&lt;p&gt;My son really wants to play a game with the coin tokens. &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;What are all the cards that use coin tokens?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T20:03:43.757" Title="What cards use coin tokens?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29479" CreationDate="2016-03-27T21:26:43.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the list of all cards that use coin tokens.  They are used in Dominion: Guilds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Candlestick Maker, which grants +1 Action and +1 Buy in addition to the Coin token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Plaza, a village that can optionally discard a Treasure for a Coin token&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Baker, a Peddler variant that gives Coin tokens instead of Coin.png&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Butcher, which gives two Coin tokens, and allows you to trade in Coin tokens to Remodel other cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Merchant Guild, a terminal +Buy that grants a Coin token whenever a card is bough&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15704" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T00:35:24.743" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T00:35:24.743" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29467" CreationDate="2016-03-27T22:33:33.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, encounters are placed during the encounter phase of Dracula's turn. Moving by escaping as a bat occurs during dawn or dusk, which is outside this phase so no encounter is placed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first space location (where the combat was taking place) is cleared, and then the new location card - without an encounter - replaces the cleared location on the first slot on the trail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T22:33:33.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29462" CreationDate="2016-03-27T22:49:03.820" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flight clarified this: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The 1 influence point only occurs when it is night and the engaged hunter is mesmerized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/21076368#21076368&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/21076368#21076368&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T22:49:03.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29483" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-27T22:53:59.193" Score="4" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught this two-pack version of patience a few years ago and want to know if it has an official name or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two packs are shuffled together. 8 columns of 8 rows of cards are layed out face up on the table- 64 cards in total. The rest of the cards are faced down to the side of the table and turned over one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any card may be placed on any other card with a value one above it (ie. Any 3 can be played on any 4 etc) but only if they are the same suit can cards be moved in groups. The only cards that can be placed on an empty column is one of the kings. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aim is to clear the table into 8 stacks from ace to king above the table like in 'traditional' solitaire games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know if it has an official name? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15757" LastEditorUserId="12778" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T03:36:40.917" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T09:23:46.460" Title="Trying to find the name of this patience-style game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29484" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29460" CreationDate="2016-03-27T23:12:22.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Correct. When you are defeated you determine the closest hospital (the one that is the fewest roads away) and then the figure is removed from the board and placed at the hospital at the next dawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the combat was at dusk, the hunter only skips the night action. If the hunter If the hunter is defeated at dawn they would end up losing both their next night and day action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-03-27T23:12:22.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29485" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30228" CreationDate="2016-03-28T01:16:11.210" Score="3" ViewCount="162" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I was building a scout-heavy army, I noticed that cluster-mines could be taken by my scout-bikes to mark a &quot;small area&quot; as dangerous terrain. However, there is no actual measurement in how big this area is in either the Space Marine Codex and the Core Rulebook. So in light of this, &lt;strong&gt;Is a &quot;small area&quot; the size of a small-blast marker,&lt;/strong&gt; (3 inches) &lt;strong&gt;or is it some other dimension?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T22:28:34.257" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T22:28:34.257" Title="What is a &quot;Small Area&quot; when talking about Cluster Mines?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29464" CreationDate="2016-03-28T06:38:22.390" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the &lt;strong&gt;Floating&lt;/strong&gt; variant, if you are floating and you draw a Skip, you must use it and the round is not over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.liquisearch.com/phase_10/variations/floating&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Source&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If no-one else can lay down a hittable Phase in that turn, only another player playing a Skip or the floater drawing a Skip will keep the hand going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are not using the Floating variant then no matter how you empty your hand, you Go Out and the round ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T04:04:19.253" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T04:04:19.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23268" CreationDate="2016-03-28T13:13:36.013" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/magic-duels&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Duels&lt;/a&gt; is a free-to-play game that serves as an excellent tutorial and is now being updated with all new cards (but no old ones) rather than the yearly releases of the past.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;WotC has now changed from a yearly release (DotP13, 14, 15, etc) to one release that will be supported going forward. This is called Magic Duels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It came out with the Origins release, with the intention of providing running updates with each new set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is free to play; you buy booster packs with coins earned through victory, quests, or purchasing them for cash. Currently there is a starter pack provided when you download it that contains cards mainly from Origins, but there are also some cards from throughout Magic's history. There is also a Battle for Zendikar starter box, and likely to be a starter box for each large set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, all cards in the app are from Origins and Battle for Zendikar. Oath of the Gatewatch was not able to be provided in time and is being added Wednesday, April 6, at the same time Shadows Over Innistrad is added to the app. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game serves as an excellent tutorial as it explains each mechanic as you come across it through guided scenarios, but they are optional so if you already know what you're doing you can move on. The app also contains stories based on the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/columns/magic-story-archive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Storyline&lt;/a&gt; that closely (though not precisely) follow the stories of each planeswalker for the Origins set, and an additional chapter for Battle for Zendikar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2016-03-28T13:37:57.140" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T13:37:57.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29488" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29489" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:37:52.323" Score="4" ViewCount="284" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing against &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.co.unbalance.android.igoen&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crazy Stone&lt;/a&gt; and we ended up with (essentially) this corner situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;$$ | . . 5 X O .&#xA;$$ | 4 1 3 X O .&#xA;$$ | . 2 , X O .&#xA;$$ | X X X X O .&#xA;$$ | O O O O O .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This certainly taught me (black) a valuable lesson about what I learned is called the &quot;Carpenter's Square&quot; and how I should not let W1 happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I did &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; understand was the counting of this situation. I would have expected this to be counted under seki rules (as far as I can tell, Crazy Stone uses Japanese scoring), which in my understanding means all stones are alive and the four empty intersections are dame, so this corner is worth zero for either player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The program however marked the black stones as dead and counted the corner as white territory, making the above diagram worth 22 points for white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my understanding incorrect? Or the computer's? How should this situation be counted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="119" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T12:59:30.423" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T12:59:30.423" Title="Counting a surrounded non-alive carpenter's square" Tags="|go|scoring|seki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29489" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29488" CreationDate="2016-03-28T15:55:09.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;During the game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$&#xA;$$ -------------&#xA;$$ | a b O X O .&#xA;$$ | X O O X O .&#xA;$$ | . X , X O .&#xA;$$ | X X X X O .&#xA;$$ | O O O O O .&#xA;$$ | . . . . . .&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The corner is not settled yet, as both players can choose to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;either start a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?TenThousandYearKo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ten thousand year ko&lt;/a&gt;, white by playing at a and black by playing at b&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or settle for a seki, if black plays at a or white plays at b.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;At scoring time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no move has been added in the corner, I would expect this to be considered a seki under &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.cmu.edu/~wjh/go/rules/Japanese.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Japanese rules&lt;/a&gt; (see example 12).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under Chinese rules, both players would have to agree on the seki, or keep playing (in which case a or b will eventually be played).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T15:02:02.730" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T15:02:02.730" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7611" CreationDate="2016-03-28T17:09:20.830" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play this game all the time and it's often winnable but sometimes it takes a lot of undos to get there (my winning percentage is about 47% over 300+ games).  I find that if I can empty a stack early, my chances are better.  Also, because you stack cards onto the same suit, there's no harm in having one suit get way &quot;ahead&quot; of the others.  In fact, it may help to focus on one suit at a time.  Of course, you have to be prepared to switch focus to a different suit if the opportunity comes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15763" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T17:09:20.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29469" CreationDate="2016-03-28T18:01:37.077" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A response from Nikki from FFG that strongly implies the active mystery is all but pointless once the Ancient One card flips and the Final Mystery begins (meaning that if one were to solve it, it would &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; add an extra clue):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Syzygy is unique from other Ancient Ones in that it is designed to always flip. The cosmic alignment will occur whether the investigators are prepared for it or not. For Syzygy, just completing the Final Mystery is enough to win, but solving Mysteries before the sheet flips will give the investigators an advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T18:01:37.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29493" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29497" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:22:13.337" Score="9" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I own &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt;. I want to buy &lt;em&gt;Pandemic Legacy: Season 1&lt;/em&gt;. It's quite expensive though and it seems that the game board looks the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there an extension to the &lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt; game that reproduces &lt;em&gt;Pandemic Legacy: Season 1&lt;/em&gt;? Or do I really have to buy the new version entirely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15691" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T18:48:26.563" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T18:48:26.563" Title="Is there an extension that converts regular Pandemic to Pandemic Legacy: Season 1?" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29498" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:31:58.850" Score="6" ViewCount="13550" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is about the wording on a new card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Brain%20in%20a%20Jar&quot;&gt;Brain in a Jar&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{1}, {T}: Put a charge counter on Brain in a Jar, then you may cast an instant or sorcery card with converted mana cost equal to the number of charge counters on Brain in a Jar from your hand without paying its mana costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that we can cast a sorcery at instant speed? On an opponents turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12237" LastEditorUserId="12237" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T15:29:55.417" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T15:29:55.417" Title="Does Brain in a Jar let you cast a Sorcery at Instant speed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29494" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:38:20.990" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that means you can cast a sorcery at instant speed.  For instance, you could cast a sorcery during an opponent's turn.  Note, there are other ways to do this as well (not necessarily in standard however)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hypersonic%20Dragon&quot;&gt;Hypersonic Dragon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Quicken&quot;&gt;Quicken&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Leyline%20of%20Anticipation&quot;&gt;Leyline of Anticipation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vedalken%20Orrery&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240194&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Alchemist's Refuge&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T05:13:42.710" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T05:13:42.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29496" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:54:22.380" Score="7" ViewCount="8277" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the mechanical/strategic differences in playing Pandemic Legacy: Season 1 with just two characters, as opposed to three or four?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If discussing Season 1 spoilers is unavoidable, please remember to use the spoiler notation (&lt;code&gt;&amp;gt;! hidden text&lt;/code&gt;) and clearly mark them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15691" LastEditorUserId="13647" LastEditDate="2020-05-05T15:58:18.017" LastActivityDate="2020-05-05T15:58:18.017" Title="How is Pandemic Legacy impacted by playing with two characters?" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29493" CreationDate="2016-03-28T19:57:37.730" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no expansion to convert Pandemic into Pandemic Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly, the board is not the same anyway. It has a month track that doesn't exist on the non-Legacy board, as well as printed places for stickers that alter the board. Many other components are also different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, even if there was an expansion/conversion kit, it would be nearly as expensive as the full Pandemic Legacy due to the large number of added components (sticker sheets, secret booklets, secret decks, secret boxes), and due to needing to replace some standard components with Legacy versions (some cards, the board, the occupation cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, considering that you have to permanently alter your board and cards in order to play a Legacy game, you would just have to replace your copy of Pandemic after using it in a Legacy game anyway, resulting in no savings even if an expansion was offered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the price of Pandemic Legacy is the only available way to play Pandemic Legacy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1539" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T19:57:37.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29494" CreationDate="2016-03-28T20:06:15.743" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Brain in a Jar allows you to cast a sorcery at any time that you can resolve the ability, even during your opponents' turns. But technically, you're not even casting it &amp;quot;at instant speed&amp;quot;. When a spell or ability instructs you to cast a spell, you go through the process of casting the spell &lt;strong&gt;while that spell or ability is resolving&lt;/strong&gt;. Doing so completely ignores the standard timing restrictions of non-instant spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason this works is that the rules don't actually &lt;em&gt;restrict&lt;/em&gt; when non-instant spells can be cast. They actually just &lt;em&gt;allow&lt;/em&gt; you to cast the spell at certain times. So, the rule for Instants, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Instant&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;304.1&lt;/a&gt;, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player who has priority may cast an instant card from his or her hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the rule for Sorceries, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Sorcery&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;307.1&lt;/a&gt;, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player who has priority may cast a sorcery card from his or her hand &lt;strong&gt;during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, the rules do not by default &lt;em&gt;allow&lt;/em&gt; you to cast sorceries in as many situations as it allows you to cast instants, but neither rule says that those are the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; times when you can cast those spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when you activate Brain in a Jar's ability, it essentially says &amp;quot;you can also cast an instant or sorcery (with a particular CMC) during the resolution of this ability&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that if a spell explicitly says that you can only cast it at a certain time, or that you can't cast it at a certain time, Brain in a Jar does not allow you to avoid that restriction. So, Brain in a Jar does not allow you to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Berserk&quot;&gt;Berserk&lt;/a&gt; after the combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This difference between rules that allow you to cast spells at certain times and text that restricts when you can cast spells is the reason that cards that let you cast spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bring%20to%20Light&quot;&gt;Bring to Light&lt;/a&gt; have rulings like this one:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast the exiled card, you do so as part of the resolution of Bring to Light. You can’t wait to cast it later in the turn. &lt;strong&gt;Timing restrictions based on the card’s type are ignored, but other restrictions (such as “Cast [this card] only during combat”) are not.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-28T20:06:15.743" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29499" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-28T22:58:29.880" Score="1" ViewCount="588" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm interested in playing boardgames competitively. I want to know if there are any unwritten rules or written rules when the stakes are high.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm really concerned that cross talk (conversation between two players) can promote collusion in a multiplayer game. What are the common rules on table talk for tournaments? Can you point me in the direction of good resources on tournament etiquette or examples therein? For instance, poker tournaments have their own traditional social mores (most of which I don't know or understand). Are there any similarities to board games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13766" LastEditorUserId="13766" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T05:20:43.510" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T05:20:43.510" Title="Is table talk acceptable in tournament play?" Tags="|etiquette|tournament|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-03-29T12:32:10.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29501" CreationDate="2016-03-29T10:38:50.800" Score="10" ViewCount="2041" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a couple of weeks cards with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5Bmadness%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;madness&lt;/a&gt; mechanic, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;subtype=+%5B%22Processor%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Processor&lt;/a&gt;s, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Displacer&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt; are going to be in standard together. The text for Madness reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“If a player would discard this card, that player discards it, but may exile it instead of putting it into his or her graveyard” and “When this card is exiled this way, its owner may cast it by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost. If that player doesn’t, he or she puts this card into his or her graveyard.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a board of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Displacer&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt; and some ETB Processor like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland%20Strangler&quot;&gt;Wasteland Strangler&lt;/a&gt;, can I respond to a card being exiled through madness by displacing my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wasteland%20Strangler&quot;&gt;Wasteland Strangler&lt;/a&gt; and putting the exiled card into the graveyard, thus effectively countering madness and triggering my process ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is the case what is to stop my opponent casting the exiled card in response to this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15291" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-03-29T12:43:16.767" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T13:54:51.633" Title="Can Eldrazi Processor effects &quot;counter&quot; madness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29500" CreationDate="2016-03-29T11:22:09.680" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can remove a card discarded through Madness from exile before your opponent has a chance to cast it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the the relevant rule you already quoted, Madness has two parts to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.34a Madness is a keyword that represents two abilities. The first is a static ability that functions while the card with madness is in a player’s hand. The second is a triggered ability that functions when the first ability is applied. “Madness [cost]” means “If a player would discard this card, that player discards it, but exiles it instead of putting it into his or her graveyard” and “When this card is exiled this way, its owner may cast it by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost. If that player doesn’t, he or she puts this card into his or her graveyard.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first part says that the card with Madness is put into exile rather than the graveyard if it was discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second ability triggers off the card getting discarded to exile by Madness. Only if and when that second ability resolves can that player cast that spell for its alternative Madness cost. You can respond to the second ability by removing that card from exile with your Displacer/Processor combo. Since that causes the card to change zones and become a new object, the triggered Madness ability will lose track of that object and your opponent cannot cast that spell when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T13:54:51.633" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T13:54:51.633" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29502" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29503" CreationDate="2016-03-29T13:41:43.763" Score="2" ViewCount="1016" Body="&lt;p&gt;We all know by now that Cheat only allows you to use items you would not usually be able to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there anything in the rules to stop you from giving Cheat to a Monster, and if not, is &quot;being a Monster&quot; a condition that Cheat circumvents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15772" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:21:21.490" Title="Can monsters use items with Cheat?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29502" CreationDate="2016-03-29T14:21:21.490" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cheat! card specifically says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;You may have and use any one &lt;strong&gt;item&lt;/strong&gt; that would otherwise be against the rules&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, monsters are not items (they are an entirely different type of card, falling under the door category) so they are not valid targets for the cheat! card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, instead, you're asking if Monsters can use items when you use the cheat card, I would still say no, as the card specifically says &quot;&lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; may have and use any one item&quot; rather than something more broad, such as &quot;Disregard all rules for this item&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11969" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T14:21:21.490" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T14:37:38.950" Score="1" ViewCount="645" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am learning the rules of Risk, but am failing to understand why, during a battle, one player would ever need more Army units than their opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rules of risk, during a battle each player compares their highest dice rolls. The player with the lowest roll of the two removes one unit from the battle. The players then compare their next highest rolls (if they have rolled more than die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My misunderstanding can be explained in the following two scenarios I have created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both battles, the attacker rolls 2 die and the defender rolls 1. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battle 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkWrn.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CkWrn.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battle 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In battle 1, the attacker has the highest roll and so the defender removes one of his units. Now the defender has no more dice and so there is no defending die to compare the attacker's 2nd die with. The attacker wins this battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battle 2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhCBB.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FhCBB.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battle 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In battle 2, the defender has the highest 1st roll and so the attacker removes one unit. As by the rules, the players should now compare their &lt;em&gt;next highest dice&lt;/em&gt;. The defender does not have a next highest dice, only the one which they have already used in the battle. So what happens here? Am I right in thinking that once this stage is reached, the defender can reuse their die that have already won during this battle? And so 'Battle 2' would now look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHfuQ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yHfuQ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battle 2 - Part 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the defender wins again and so the attacker has lost all his units in the battle. The defender wins this battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Battle 3&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a 3rd scenario following the logic I have proposed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN2KT.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xN2KT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battle 3 - Part 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWECv.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RWECv.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battle 3 - Part 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part 3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SfxX.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4SfxX.png&quot; alt=&quot;Battle 3 - Part 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct process in which battles should be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15773" LastEditorUserId="1539" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T19:58:16.450" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T15:12:16.610" Title="Why would one player ever need more Army units in a battle than their opponent?" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29504" CreationDate="2016-03-29T15:02:59.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have since confirmed the rules. My scenarios for 'Battle 2' and 'Battle 3' are incorrect. Once a die has been used in a battle, it cannot be used in that battle again. The only reason for a player having more dice than their opponent is to increase their chance of rolling a higher number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15773" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T15:02:59.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29506" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29511" CreationDate="2016-03-29T18:36:19.077" Score="6" ViewCount="367" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I am checking out a legal, regulated casino and they have video poker with over 99% RTP (return to player) games. And then I also noticed they have a deal where by loading funds using a credit card you get 1% cash back on it.  If you loaded the funds using their credit card method and say for example played a video poker game with 99.54% RTP wouldn't that make for a total 100.54% RTP and you could actually make money playing video poker ? Am I missing something ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15781" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:03:10.710" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T20:03:10.710" Title="How can a casino offer 99%+ RTP plus 1% cash back?" Tags="|poker|casino|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29507" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-29T18:53:29.590" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pandemic Legacy&lt;/em&gt; is a version of &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/pandemic&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;pandemic&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;pandemic&lt;/a&gt; involving persistent gameplay, including permanently altering the board and tearing up cards. &lt;em&gt;Season 1&lt;/em&gt; was first released in 2015 by Z-Man Games, and was designed by Rob Daviau and Matt Leacock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions and answers which reveal changes and other hidden content should use spoiler markup where appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2018-12-25T02:31:21.667" LastActivityDate="2018-12-25T02:31:21.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29508" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-29T18:53:29.590" Score="0" Body="A version of Pandemic involving persistent gameplay, including permanently altering the board and tearing up cards. Questions and answers which reveal changes and other hidden content should use spoiler markup where appropriate." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2018-12-25T02:31:28.217" LastActivityDate="2018-12-25T02:31:28.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29509" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-29T19:10:56.123" Score="3" ViewCount="728" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I play a Bible, Shibata or some other Missed! symbol cards against Slab the Killer?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15782" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:11:03.903" Title="Missed! symbol cards against Slab the Killer" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29509" CreationDate="2016-03-29T21:11:03.903" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play any card with the Missed! symbol against Slab the Killer, however you will need a total of 2 of them in order to miss. What the means is if you only have one card that you can play and it lets you draw card after you use it, you can play the card, draw your card and if it provide you with a second Missed! symbol you can then play it and miss the shot. If you do not get another card that lets you miss you will still take the hit even though you played one miss card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-03-29T21:11:03.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29506" CreationDate="2016-03-30T02:11:20.267" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are doing the math correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Start out with $100.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Get 1% cash back, so essentially you have $101.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now, 99.54% RTP, gets you 0.9954 * 101 = $100.54&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &lt;em&gt;on average&lt;/em&gt; every $100 you play, you would make 54 cents.  (It's far more likely that RTP is closer to 99%, in which case, the result is $99.99, but let's say it's really 99.54%)  According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizardofodds.com/games/video-poker/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;an article from WizardOfOdds.com&lt;/a&gt;, this is not unheard of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the face of it, this sounds like a money making machine.  But you have to keep in mind...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How long does it take to &quot;play&quot; $100?  If it takes an hour, you're &quot;making&quot; 54 cents an hour.  This doesn't seem like a particularly profitable means of making money.  Even if it takes 5 minutes, you still are only making $6.5/hour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How much are you spending to make this money?  You may get free drinks, but probably you'll be purchasing food at some point.  How much is that going to cost you?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are you good enough to actually achieve that kind of return on the game?  The makers of the game can easily make it so complicated that no humans can actually play well enough to achieve that kind of payout level.  There is a game mentioned on the Wikipedia article for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Video_poker&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Video Poker&lt;/a&gt; that has a payout of 100.1.  But with the caveat that no one can play it well enough to achieve that....&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do you have enough capital on hand to &quot;ensure&quot; you make money.  Consider the following 99% game.  (It's not video poker, but the point is to illustrate the idea.)  You win $1,000,000 with probability 1.99e-6, or you lose $1 with probability (1 - 1.99e-6).  How many times on average do you need to bet in order to win?  You need to bet on average $500,000 in order to win once.  So, in that game you have to have $500K cash on hand &quot;on average&quot; to win.  This is an extreme case, but even for more &quot;reasonable&quot; games, the numbers are still in the favor of the house.  You will go broke, before you hit the big money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cashback bonuses have conditions.  For example, some casinos only offer cashback when you lose a bet.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T14:30:12.627" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T14:30:12.627" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27932" CreationDate="2016-03-30T08:59:12.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will stick with Guillotine as the example game, but the issues here apply to most games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rules of a game tell you to do something, purposefully &quot;forgetting&quot; to is cheating. Thus 1b is an easy NO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1a is a much harder question. &lt;strong&gt;Tl;dr: In casual play, have your group agree on something; in tournament play, call a referee or refer to your game's tournament guidelines if they exist.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some issues involved are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you don't allow the draw, you are 1) willfully preventing an action mandated by the game and 2) punishing them for what's probably an innocent mistake.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do allow the draw, you are making it easier for them to gain advantage (on purpose or by accident) by 1) drawing on turn, then saying they forgot and drawing again or 2) changing opponents' thoughts and actions by temporarily having one fewer card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a few example cases. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case 1 - You're all friends trying to have fun. Then whatever you can agree on goes; here are a couple possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Case 1.0 - Bob starts a turn. Alice says she forgot to draw. Bob says he's ok with Alice drawing and Claire concurs, so Alice draws (and is told to be more careful).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Case 1.1 - Bob plays the swap hands card on Claire. Now Alice says she forgot to draw. Bob says he would have wanted Alice's hand had it had one more card in it. By now he's seen Claire's hand though, so swapping for Alice's instead would cause an even bigger disruption to fair play. Thus he suggests that Alice has benefitted from not drawing and should not also get the benefit of drawing afterwards, and all agree.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Case 2 - Winning this game is really important to you, and/or you don't trust your opponent. Then know before the game how disputes will be settled!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Case 2.0 - There's a judge/referee; go ask them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Case 2.1 - There's a tournament procedure guide (not in Guillotine though, to my knowledge). For example, the MtG folks have an Infraction Procedure Guide ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF1.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) where they lay out in insane detail everything that could possibly go wrong in a game of Magic and what to do about it. Failure to draw would probably fall under the generic &quot;2.5. Game Play Error — Game Rule Violation&quot;; the player would get to draw but would be issued a Warning (getting multiple Warnings can cause you to lose the game). [I've played in circles where, when an arbitrary game does not have the rules clarification we're looking for, finding the most relevant rule/procedure from MtG is an accepted way of settling disputes.]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Case 2.2 - It's just you, a stranger, and your $100 dollar bet on the outcome. I'm sorry but this was a really bad idea.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T08:59:12.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29518" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:49:54.797" Score="10" ViewCount="1908" Body="&lt;p&gt;The release notes for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diregraf%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Diregraf Colossus&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Diregraf Colossus enters the battlefield from your graveyard, its first ability will count itself among the Zombie cards in your graveyard. Similarly, if it enters the battlefield at the same time as another Zombie card enters the battlefield from your graveyard, the ability will count that other Zombie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and its ability is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Diregraf Colossus enters the battlefield with a +1/+1 counter on it for each Zombie card in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is entering the battlefield, how can it see itself in the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:00:39.537" Title="Why does Diregraf Colossus see itself in the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29515" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-30T15:55:26.127" Score="1" ViewCount="1782" Body="&lt;p&gt;Having played chess on occasion I know the basic rules and moves to the game. However, it seems like a possibly wasted move when there are players who play a dominant game of chess and don't castle their king. Is castling a necessary move or is it more of a preference choice by the player? &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1o09.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y1o09.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14260" LastEditorUserId="14260" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T02:05:27.553" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T02:05:27.553" Title="What is the purpose of castling in chess?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-03-31T06:30:19.710" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29514" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:04:34.997" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is because the ability checks to see how many counters will be put on the the Colossus before the Colossus actually enters the battlefield (while it is still in the graveyard). And when it checks the Colossus is a zombie in the graveyard so it will count itself (and any other zombies that might be moving from the graveyard to the battlefield at the same time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6e&lt;/strong&gt; Some permanents have text that reads “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,” “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield tapped.” Such text is a static ability—not a triggered ability—whose effect occurs as part of the event that puts the permanent onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T16:04:34.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29515" CreationDate="2016-03-30T16:29:42.390" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Castling is always an option - it is never forced upon a player. It is however a very commonly taken option as it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;places the king in an easily defended position&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;moves the rook towards the centre of the board where it is easily developed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;and does all that in one move, improving the player's tempo&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T19:46:01.127" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:46:01.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29514" CreationDate="2016-03-30T17:14:16.253" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Diregraf%20Colossus&quot;&gt;Diregraf Colossus&lt;/a&gt;'s ability has a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ” are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This particular replacement effect requires information about the game (the number of zombies in your graveyard). This information is determined only once, when the effect is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2g If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only once, when the effect is applied. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when is the effect applied? In the case of replacement effects, they are applied when the event they are looking to replace would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen—they aren’t locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And finally, for completeness, the event actually happens when the spell or ability resolves, as you follow the instructions written on the card. The following rule is a subrule of &amp;quot;resolving a spell or ability&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;608.2c The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. However, replacement effects may modify these actions. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Armed with these rules, let's walk through a scenario step by step to see what happens. Assume Anthony has Diregraf Colossus in his graveyard and no other zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Anthony casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dread%20Return&quot;&gt;Dread Return&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Diregraf Colossus.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority, and so Dread Return begins to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first instruction says &amp;quot;Return target creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&amp;quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This instruction is modified by Diregraf's replacement effect. After applying the replacement effect, it reads &amp;quot;Return Diregraf Colossus to the battlefield from your graveyard with a +1/+1 counter on it for each Zombie card in your graveyard.&amp;quot; At the same time that we apply the replacement effect, we must determine how many zombies are in our graveyard. Currently Anthony has one zombie in his graveyard,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Now that we have applied the replacement effect, we can actually move Diregraf from the graveyard to the battlefield and put 1 counter on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are no other instructions to follow, so Dread Return is done resolving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T19:00:39.537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T19:00:39.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29524" CreationDate="2016-03-30T19:38:23.093" Score="8" ViewCount="2154" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan, what are the precise rules for when a trade is completed and there is no going back? For example, if player 1 asks if anyone is looking to trade a resource for another resource and player 2 agrees, is player 1 bound to that trade or do both parties have to then agree on an exact trade before continuing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, is offering a trade to all players an implicit agreement to a specific trade with a particular player? If not, is there any way to agree on trades that does not result in showing what's in your hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11514" LastEditorUserId="11514" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T19:53:08.637" LastActivityDate="2018-04-13T13:09:28.037" Title="When is there no going back on a trade?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29520" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29521" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:30:44.773" Score="8" ViewCount="329" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to find a game that I had a starter set to when I was younger. I tried doing some online research, but honestly, I don't even know where to start and I can't find anything for it at my local comic/board game shop. I think that it was named something-&quot;scape&quot;. I believe that I bought it sometime between 2003 and 2007, but my memory could be a little hazy on that that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board was different every time you played because it was made up of a bunch of chunks of hexagons (like honeycombs) that you could put together any way you want. You could even stack them on each other to create different levels. The hexa-combs were made out of plastic and I think they kinda clicked together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Gameplay&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Disclaimer: I was a kid when I played so I could have been disregarding any number of rules and not playing correctly at all, so take this with a grain of salt.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;You controlled a few different heroes and/or monsters (I remember a dragon that took up 2 spaces and I think an archer of some sort?). You moved around the terrain you built and did battle with the enemies heroes/mosters. I do not recall if it was a dice-based game or not. I think each character has a stats card. Unfortunately, I don't remember much about how it was actually played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Expansion Sets&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, I think I had a starter set, which seemed to be generic-fantasy themed, but I think there were other sets that could be bought that had heroes/monsters from lots of other genres and more hexagons so that you could wind up with a huge battle with tons of genres mixing it up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone point me to this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15792" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:35:47.380" Title="Genre-mash up battle game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29520" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:35:47.380" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game is called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heroscape&quot;&gt;Heroscape&lt;/a&gt;. It was primarily fantasy based, but there were some other expansions like a Marvel themed one. The game was discontinued in 2010 but Wizards of the Coast has recently created a Magic: the Gathering board game called Arena of the Planeswalkers that seems to have similar gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:35:47.380" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29522" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29504" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:46:46.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rolls don't stay the same.  Having more dice means you get more chances to outroll them, which is a necessity considering that defenders have an advantage.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15775" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:46:46.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29519" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:52:39.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't explicitly declare it as &quot;locked in and done&quot; at any one point.  Catan isn't MTG; the rules aren't that specific.  It's a social game, so the first rule is don't be an asshole.  That said, you can say you have an open call to trade wheat for bricks, but that is just a matter of you letting the other players know what you want.  Exposing the cards in your hand isn't required, AFAIK.  That means that in regards to your specific example, you could put out an open trade agreement on your own turn, then if another player wants to trade with you on their turn and offers it to you you can take it up.  However, you are never obligated to make a trade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as take-backs, etc goes, generally the trade is considered done when both people have exchanged cards.  But the specific timing of that is up to your group.  I would not allow trade-backs once any other action (negotiation, card usage, rolls, etc) has taken place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15775" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T20:52:39.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29519" CreationDate="2016-03-30T20:56:12.513" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The type of rule you are asking for is similar to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rules_of_chess#Act_of_moving_the_pieces&quot;&gt;Chess rule&lt;/a&gt; that says...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the hand is taken off a piece after moving it, the move cannot be retracted (unless the move is illegal).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catan rules aren't that specific, unfortunately. There is no rule in Catan that covers when a trade is complete with this level of detail. Therefore, &lt;strong&gt;it is up to you and your play group&lt;/strong&gt;. If I were in your play group, I would argue that a trade is complete when the cards have physically changed hands. That is how goods exchanges work in real life - I give you money, you give me goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you allow trades to be taken back after cards have exchanged hands, then you have to remember what cards you traded. More importantly, you have to still have the cards, and not have spent them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't allow trades to be taken back before cards have exchanged hands, then what happens if I don't have the cards I said I would trade? Maybe I wanted to bluff that I had a card for trade just so the other guy would get a worse deal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bluffing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bluffing is generally an acceptable practice in any game that involves hidden information. But, the difference between lying and bluffing is not always clear. In Catan, you just have to know it when you see it. For example, saying &quot;I have wheat.&quot; when I really don't is a bluff by any reasonable definition of the word, but saying &quot;I have seven cards.&quot; when I really have eight is just a lie. If your group is not okay with bluffing, then your play group may need to create a house rule that prohibits it. Otherwise, it's fair game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-03-30T22:52:23.997" LastActivityDate="2016-03-30T22:52:23.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29525" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29526" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:44:07.693" Score="1" ViewCount="369" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Journey to Rhosgobel actually has an interesting scenario where you can &lt;strong&gt;add&lt;/strong&gt; Athelas to the staging area. Is it guarded when added by Forest Grove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastEditorUserId="15668" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T06:04:43.947" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:06:07.197" Title="Is Athelas guarded by Forest Grove" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29525" CreationDate="2016-03-31T05:52:40.320" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it is not guarded when added by Forest Grove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the FAQs, on &lt;strong&gt;guarded&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Surge, Doomed, and Guarded keywords should be resolved any time the card on which they occur is revealed from the encounter deck, including during setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The word &lt;strong&gt;revealed&lt;/strong&gt; here is not mentioned in the actual rule book and is the cause for confusion. If we assume that Guarded is only triggered when a card is &lt;strong&gt;revealed&lt;/strong&gt; then Athelas enters the staging area unguarded when added by Forest Grove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastEditorUserId="15668" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T06:06:07.197" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T06:06:07.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29519" CreationDate="2016-03-31T10:43:45.283" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trades are done when cards change hands, not before, not after. Another player isn't allowed to take cards that are in my hand, I can only give them. If I propose a trade and then change my mind, the other player has no recourse for obtaining the card I offered, unless I consent to the trade. Similarly, once the cards have changed hands, I have no way of forcing my opponent to give it back if I change my mind. In Catan, possession is ten tenths of the law.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Proposing a trade to the table as a whole is usually just a shortcut for proposing it to one player at a time. Even if the leading opponent is the first to speak up about a trade, I would much prefer to trade with someone who isn't winning. Again, even if he's the first to &quot;accept&quot; the trade, he has no way of forcing me to carry it out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="12631" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T10:48:50.887" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T10:48:50.887" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29529" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:27:39.943" Score="4" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card Brain Transference reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You and a player of your choice switch seats at the table (leaving your hands). You each take over the other player's entire position in the game, as if you were in that position all along.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Your turn ends immediately. The person next in order from your original seat goes next unless that's you, in which case the player after your new seat goes next.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Leaving your hands) wording in card description is unclear to me.&#xA;When I change seat, do I keep my hand of cards or also switch cards with my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1092" LastEditorUserId="1092" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T21:21:41.093" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T21:21:41.093" Title="Brain transference in Star Fluxx" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29528" CreationDate="2016-03-31T12:38:03.937" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The cards currently in your hand are left on the table. The keepers and creepers in front of you are left where you were.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You take over your targets position in the game, and they assume yours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T12:38:03.937" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29530" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29531" CreationDate="2016-03-31T16:42:56.600" Score="12" ViewCount="687" Body="&lt;p&gt;The wife and I are new players to this particular card game, though not card games in general. We have only dueled twice with MtG so far. We had something come up we were curious about. She used the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sharpened%20Pitchfork&quot;&gt;Sharpened Pitchfork&lt;/a&gt; which has in its effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as equipped creature is a Human, it gets +1/+1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which she used on her &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Moorland%20Inquisitor&quot;&gt;Moorland Inquisitor&lt;/a&gt; whose creature subtype is Human Soldier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now common sense and reality say, yes this effect should work since he is a human. However, in many card games the writing has to match perfectly, and technically this does not. He is a 'Human Soldier', and it calls for a 'Human'. So in this example, do you use the common sense, he is a human, or does it not count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had the same thing happen in our first duel, but with the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ghoulraiser&quot;&gt;Ghoulraiser&lt;/a&gt; who has the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Ghoulraiser enters the battlefield, return a Zombie card at random from your graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the creature in question for this one was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Makeshift%20Mauler&quot;&gt;Makeshift Mauler&lt;/a&gt; whose creature subtype is 'Zombie Horror'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not considering the random part, would this work or not with the same thought based on common sense, or technical writing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We're using the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/duel-decks-blessed-vs-cursed&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Blessed vs Cursed&lt;/a&gt; duel decks if anybody wants/needs to see the cards in question. Thank you for your help on what I am sure is an obvious question, but I tend to overthink things so I have to check small stuff like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15786" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T16:57:12.893" LastActivityDate="2017-02-02T19:21:13.690" Title="Clarification of creature's subtype for card effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29530" CreationDate="2016-03-31T16:51:51.407" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic each subtype is its own separate thing. So when the Inquisitor says &amp;quot;Human Soldier&amp;quot; it means &amp;quot;this creature is a Human and this creature is a Soldier&amp;quot;. Similarly &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avacynian%20Priest&quot;&gt;Avacynian Priest&lt;/a&gt; couldn't tap the Inquisitor even though it has the Soldier subtype because it is still a Human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ghoulraiser would work the same way, the Mauler is a Zombie (regardless of any other subtypes it may have) so it is an option to be returned to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.3b&lt;/strong&gt; Subtypes of each card type except plane are always single words and are listed after a long dash. Each word after the dash is a separate subtype; such objects may have multiple types. Subtypes of planes are also listed after a long dash, but may be multiple words; all words after the dash are, collectively, a single subtype.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Example: [...] “Creature — Goblin Wizard” means the card is a creature with the subtypes Goblin and Wizard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T16:51:51.407" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29532" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T17:15:41.140" Score="6" ViewCount="713" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that there are errors on some cards, as indicated by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29391/when-does-vertigos-villain-action-happen&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, is there an official errata list from Upper Deck? The closest I could find is on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/92138/unofficial-collected-faq-clarifications-and-errata&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;, but this list is a collection of notes from their forums and hasn't been updated since February of 2014.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2022-09-02T20:03:15.780" Title="Does Upper Deck maintain an official errata for Legendary: A Marvel Deck Building Game?" Tags="|legendary-marvel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29534" CreationDate="2016-03-31T18:03:26.687" Score="2" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Time Cataclysm environment, there is a card called Oppressive Smog that has the following text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Oppressive Smog&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Anomaly&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce all HP recovery by 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the Environment Turn, a player may discard 1 card to destroy this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two cards in Setback's deck that the HP recovery effect might apply to, but it's not clear because they don't use the words &amp;quot;HP recovery&amp;quot;. Specifically:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Karmic Retribution&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;One-Shot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have fewer than 7 tokens in your Unlucky Pool, remove 1 of them. If you do, Setback regains 2 HP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &amp;quot;regains X HP&amp;quot; an instance of &amp;quot;HP recovery&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Silver Lining&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Ongoing&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Setback would be reduced to 0 or fewer HP, remove all tokens from your Unlucky Pool and restore Setback to HP equal to the amount of tokens removed this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, destroy this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is &amp;quot;restore Setback to HP equal to…&amp;quot; an instance of &amp;quot;HP recovery&amp;quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both cases, the cards increase the HP of Setback, but don't use the word &amp;quot;recover&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;recovery&amp;quot;. Does Oppressive Smog, or another card that reduces HP recovery, apply to these cards in Setback's deck that use the terms &amp;quot;regain&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;restore&amp;quot; in relation to HP?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T20:18:37.060" Title="Does the effect &quot;Reduce all HP recovery by 2&quot; affect Setback's cards?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29534" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29533" CreationDate="2016-03-31T18:58:00.970" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Recovery only applies when you are regaining health, not when health is being restored.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As noted by phantaskippy on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://greaterthangames.com/forum/topic/is-restore-healing-8232&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Greater Than Games forums&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Regain and restore are different terms.  Health can still be restored if Health can't be regained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite only the term &lt;em&gt;restore&lt;/em&gt; showing up in the glossary, &lt;em&gt;regain&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;restore&lt;/em&gt; are both keywords that apply to different abilities. This is further clarified &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_rules_and_clarifications.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (page 17) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://greaterthangames.com/forum/topic/clarifications-and-decisions-from-handelabra-christophers-fireside-chats-6773&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (just search for the word &quot;restore&quot;). Something that restores health is not affected if an ability increases HP that is regained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the forum post, phantaskippy goes on to say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;There is recovery as a term as well, but that has only applied to Regaining health so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, the word &lt;em&gt;recovery&lt;/em&gt; is used to reference regaining health. This does not impact the keyword &lt;em&gt;restore&lt;/em&gt; and will only impact abilities that use the keyword &lt;em&gt;regain&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your specific card interactions, if Oppressive Smog was in play, Setback would regain 2-2 HP (0) with &lt;strong&gt;Karmic Retribution&lt;/strong&gt;. If &lt;strong&gt;Silver Lining&lt;/strong&gt; would trigger, Setback will restore HP equal to the number of tokens in your Unlucky Pool with no reduction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For what it's worth, phantaskippy is a playtester and active user on the GTG forums. He also generated a series of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spiffworld.com/sotm/files/sotm_story_challenges.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;story challenges&lt;/a&gt; with rules tweaks for &quot;epic&quot; gameplay. I mention this to show that his comments on the forums carry weight and are generally trustworthy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T20:18:37.060" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T20:18:37.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29535" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29550" CreationDate="2016-03-31T19:46:13.160" Score="0" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done gatherer searches for &quot;destroy&quot; and &quot;exile&quot; target enchantment with White and Green excluded. Are there any options, save counterspells, for dealing with them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15796" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T07:34:54.170" Title="How to deal with Enchantments outside of G/W?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29536" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-03-31T21:47:33.897" Score="3" ViewCount="856" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I play casually with a sacrifice and undying combo, which plays around with instant speed self sacrificing to avoid pesky control tactics. I'm wondering if it actually works how I think it does. Say I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=243250&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geralf's Messenger&lt;/a&gt; that I just cast. I pass priority and my opponent attempts to exile it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stasis%20Snare&quot;&gt;Stasis Snare&lt;/a&gt;. In response, I pay &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viscera%20Seer&quot;&gt;Viscera Seer&lt;/a&gt;'s cost to activate his ability sacrificing the messenger. It dies, comes back to the battlefield, does it's enter the battlefield thing, I scry 1, and then the Stasis Snare resolves. I get that typically when an object moves from one zone to another, it forgets what it used to be, but it had never left a public zone, so does 400.7g apply? Am I misinterpreting anything here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, my opponent once tried to outsmart my undeath by using the enchantment &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grave%20Betrayal&quot;&gt;Grave Betrayal&lt;/a&gt;. Both the undying trigger and the Grave Betrayal trigger occur from the same event, but since I control the object(creature), I choose the ordering for the abilities, right? I wouldn't want to get off easy against my opponents just because of confusing wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15798" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T11:59:13.487" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T11:59:13.487" Title="How do undying triggers resolve against exile and other players reanimating my graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29536" CreationDate="2016-03-31T21:55:19.970" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first example works as you want: the stasis snare doesn't exile your creature. When it moves between zones, unless otherwise stated, it and everything that targets it forgets that it was something else. Note that 400.7 says zone, not just public zone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your second example, you get to keep your creature. Grave Betrayal triggers at the beginning of the end step (technically, it creates a delayed trigger that triggers at the end step), while Undying triggers immediately. Once Undying resolves, it's back on the battlefield and is a different object than what Grave Betrayal is attempting to steal. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T22:51:32.383" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T22:51:32.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29538" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29539" CreationDate="2016-03-31T22:09:38.093" Score="3" ViewCount="250" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; copies instants and sorceries that target him only for all the rest of my creature that the intant or sorcery could target. If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Zada, would it create copies that target the token creatures I control?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-03-31T23:24:32.933" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T02:28:03.097" Title="Would a Cloudshift targeting Zada, Hedron Grinder also target tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29539" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29538" CreationDate="2016-03-31T22:32:33.427" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, if you cast Cloudshift targeting your Zada, Hedron Grinder, Zada will make a copy of Cloudshift targeting each other creature you control, including tokens. Cloudshift says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exile &lt;strong&gt;target creature you control&lt;/strong&gt;, then return that card to the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, any creature you control is a valid target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that when the copies resolve, any creature tokens you control will be exiled and they will not return, because of rule &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Permanent&quot;&gt;110.5g&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A token that has left the battlefield can’t move to another zone or come back onto the battlefield. If such a token would change zones, it remains in its current zone instead. It ceases to exist the next time state-based actions are checked; see rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T22:32:33.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29540" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T23:33:41.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Fit&quot; is a Bridge term meaning that partners have a large number of trump cards in a hand, or otherwise a productive hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Further Reading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glossary_of_contract_bridge_terms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Glossary of contract bridge terms&lt;/a&gt; on Wikipedia&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T11:47:06.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T11:47:06.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29541" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T23:33:41.350" Score="0" Body="A Bridge term meaning that partners have a large number of trump cards in a hand, or otherwise a productive hand." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T11:47:03.170" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T11:47:03.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29542" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23101" CreationDate="2016-03-31T23:52:48.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thalin's &lt;strong&gt;revealed&lt;/strong&gt; ability triggers before &lt;strong&gt;Surge&lt;/strong&gt; so Eastern Crows immediately go back into the encounter deck and no surge card is drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the Eastern Crows aren't used as shadow cards, you'll have a pretty easy time with your quest phases for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15668" LastActivityDate="2016-03-31T23:52:48.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29543" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-03-31T23:53:39.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Drunter und Drüber&lt;/em&gt; is a German multiplayer board game in which players attempt to rebuild their town. It was released in 1991 by Hans im Glück Verlags-GmbH and rethemed as &lt;em&gt;Wacky Wacky West&lt;/em&gt; by Mayfair Games in 2010.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T03:22:49.913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T03:22:49.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29544" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-03-31T23:53:39.423" Score="0" Body="A German multiplayer board game by Klaus Teuber in which players attempt to rebuild their town. Rethemed as &quot;Wacky Wacky West&quot;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T03:23:03.383" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T03:23:03.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29545" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29538" CreationDate="2016-04-01T02:28:03.097" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, a token creature counts as a creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature token behaves the same as a creature card on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Zada, Hedron Grinder says &quot;each other creature you control&quot;, it will include all creatures, whether represented by a token or by a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the glossary in the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A marker used to represent any permanent that isn’t represented by a card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And rule 110.5e:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A token is subject to anything that affects permanents in general or that affects the token’s card type or subtype. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T02:28:03.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29546" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29548" CreationDate="2016-04-01T04:04:19.253" Score="0" ViewCount="1550" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; on a creature with  counters, does it retain its counters or does it loose its counters? What about Auras? Would a creature that was &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt;ed keep its auras?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T06:53:58.680" Title="What happens to Auras and/or Counters on a creature that is targeted by a Cloudshift?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29546" CreationDate="2016-04-01T05:17:25.103" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Loses them. No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cloudshift effects the creature only. Any counters that were on it become disassociated when it leaves play. Any Auras that were attached stop being so when it is exiled, and go to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T05:17:25.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29548" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29546" CreationDate="2016-04-01T06:48:11.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If an object changes zones, counters and auras on it fall off.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature is a permanent, and a permanent is an object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.1. An object is an ability on the stack, a card, a copy of a card, a token, a spell, a permanent, or an emblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an object changes zones, it becomes a new object:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auras fall off the next time state-based actions are checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, &lt;strong&gt;the object it was attached to no longer exists,&lt;/strong&gt; or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Counters cease to exist:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;121.2. Counters on an object are not retained if that object moves from one zone to another. The counters are not “removed”; they simply cease to exist. See rule 400.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T06:53:58.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29549" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T06:52:03.050" Score="2" ViewCount="104" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the past, I asked &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/27818/how-are-you-supposed-to-fight-a-discard-deck&quot;&gt;how to fight a discard deck&lt;/a&gt;, one that's designed to just empty your hand as fast as possible with cards like Hymn to Tourach and many others. I have also read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7747/how-can-i-play-around-targeted-discard&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; on playing around targeted discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at this point my friend has rebuilt his deck to a very high degree of efficiency. I often lose one of my opening lands to Hymn, and any creatures I get out are killed by targeted kill spells or board wipe like Drown in Sorrow. I never have a chance to play higher cost creatures because my hand gets emptied by discard spells. Lately I've been playing white weenie / equipment with some very good cards like Mother of Runes, Swords to Plowshares, Aegis of the Gods, Jitte, Stoneforge Mystic, and more, but ultimately all my creatures get killed by board clear and my hand is emptied. He will sometimes clear the board 3-4 times before I get killed by a combination of Black Vise, Quest for the Nihil Stone, and Guiltfeeder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, I know discard decks aren't exactly one of the main Legacy archetypes. But I'm looking at decks like Miracles, Jund, D&amp;amp;T, OmniTell, Merfolk, and others, and to be frank, probably because I'm inexperienced with tournaments, I can't see how they would respond to this strategy. (Okay, I see how D&amp;amp;T stops it fairly easily, but not the others.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would some of the major Legacy archetypes respond to a discard deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T06:52:03.050" Title="How would some of the top deck archetypes handle discard decks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-04-01T18:57:51.820" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29535" CreationDate="2016-04-01T07:34:54.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Enchantments are permanents, so they can also be destroyed by spells or abilities that destroy permanents&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several non-G/W cards that destroy certain types of permanents, rather than enchantments specifically: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[permanent]+[destroy]&amp;amp;color=+![G]+![W]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also make your opponent sacrifice certain types of permanents, although that of course leaves some degree of choice for your opponent, depending on the board state: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[sacrifices]+[permanent]&amp;amp;color=+![G]+![W]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you should accept the fact that enchantment destruction is firmly inside the G/W part of the color pie, and you should look to less direct ways of dealing with enchantments. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for direct answers, your best bet outside G/W are Blue counterspells and bounce effects for tempo, and sweeper artifacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T07:34:54.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24154" CreationDate="2016-04-01T10:15:00.087" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My family has never put a draw 4 ontop of a draw 2 we will only do that if it is agreed on and that is the rules of uno but you can play however you want to play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15801" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T10:15:00.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29190" CreationDate="2016-04-01T14:51:42.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As further evidence for winterblood's answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://files.geekdo.com/geekfile_download.php?filetype=application%2Fpdf&amp;amp;filename=Villains_Rulebook.pdf&amp;amp;filecode=po6ilgsubz&amp;amp;validationcode=5bbdad0eb6494f48b1d45f6178020354&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legendary: Villains rule book&lt;/a&gt; (BGG account needed for link), the following section on page 20 addresses this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commander Abilities Linked to Specific Adversary Groups&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some Commanders/Masterminds like Odin, Mole Man, and Apocalypse have special abilities linked to the specific Adversaries that they usually “Always Lead.” In Advanced Solo Mode, if you don’t use the Group that this Commander “Always Leads,” then apply that ability to the corresponding Adversary Group or Backup Group that you are using. Use this rule for other Legendary sets as well. For example, in Advanced Solo Mode:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Odin’s abilities apply to whichever Backup Group you are using, as if they were Asgardian Warriors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Mole Man’s abilities apply to whichever Adversary Group you are using, as if they were Subterranea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• Apocalypse gives +2  to whichever Adversary  Group you are using, as if they were Four   Horsemen. If one of each of the different Adversaries in the Adversary Group overruns, Apocalypse instantly wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These rules imply that one villain/adversary group is assigned to the Mastermind/Commander ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T14:51:42.580" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-01T19:36:39.533" Score="1" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm slightly uncertain about the finer points of the rules and how they might play out in a match-up between the 2004 world championship decks of Julien Nuijten (slide) and Aeo Paquette (affinity).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose Nuijten controls an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20Slide&quot;&gt;Astral Slide&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viridian%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Viridian Shaman&lt;/a&gt; and can cycle a card whenever he wants to. Suppose that Paquette controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimmervoid&quot;&gt;Glimmervoid&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; but nothing more.  Can Nuijten force Glimmervoid to be sacrificed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I'm much more interested in expanding my understanding of the rules than I am in whether the answer happens to be yes or no—the &lt;em&gt;why&lt;/em&gt; is much more important than the &lt;em&gt;what&lt;/em&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T13:00:33.250" Title="Can Astral Slide plus Viridian Shamen kill Glimmervoid living off of Blinkmoth Nexus?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29554" CreationDate="2016-04-01T19:36:39.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the answer is &amp;quot;almost yes&amp;quot;. Here's how: on his own turn, Nuijten slides out Viridian Shaman.  When it returns, target Blinkmoth Nexus if it's an artifact.  Here's why this works: Astral Slide sets up a delayed trigger. It triggers at the beginning of Nuijten's end step, at which point Glimmervoid also triggers (*).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 603.3b&lt;/strong&gt;: If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts&#xA;triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or&#xA;she chooses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, Glimmervoid's ability goes on the top of the stack and Astral Slide's ability goes on the bottom.  If Paquette doesn't animate Blinkmoth Nexus before Glimmervoid's ability resolves, Glimmervoid is sacrificed. If he does, Glimmervoid is not sacrificed but Blinkmoth Nexus can be targeted by Viridian Shaman once it returns to play.  If Paquette doesn't control an artifact in the next end step (which will be Paquette's), Glimmervoid will die by then. [This 'if' is why the answer is only &lt;em&gt;almost&lt;/em&gt; yes: if Paquette can keep playing artifacts then Nuijten can't force the sacrifice.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(*) Note that this assumes that Blinkmoth Nexus has not already been animated when the main phase ends and the end step begins. If so, target it with Viridian Shaman and continue as above, but note that Glimmervoid doesn't even trigger:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;rule 603.4&lt;/strong&gt;: A triggered ability may read &amp;quot;When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].&amp;quot; When the trigger event occurs, the&#xA;ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability&#xA;triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that sliding out Viridian Shaman on &lt;em&gt;Paquette's turn&lt;/em&gt; doesn't do the trick: in that situation, Glimmervoid's ability is put on the bottom of the stack and Astral Slide's ability is put on top, meaning Astral Slide's ability resolves first. When it does, it returns Viridian Shaman and &lt;em&gt;its&lt;/em&gt; ability is put on the stack, resolving before Glimmervoid's. After Viridian Shaman's ability has resolved—note that it can not have targeted Blinkmoth Nexus—but before Glimmervoid's ability resolves, Paquette can animate Blinkmoth Nexus. If he does, when Glimmervoid's ability resolves it will do nothing (rather than cause Glimmervoid to be sacrificed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also—as an aside, not addressing the stated question but the same part of the rules—that if multiple copies of Viridian Shaman are slid out, they return one at a time. One can for instance target a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Welding%20Jar&quot;&gt;Welding Jar&lt;/a&gt; with the first and target a non-regenerated artifact with the second—or alternatively, target a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cranial%20Plating&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt; with the first, and then choose the second target depending on whether or not a Welding Jar was used to regenerate the Cranial Plating in response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If different creatures are slid out, the player who controlled Astral Slide when they were slid out chooses the order in which they return. One could for instance slide in Viridian Shaman first, destroying one's own artifact, then slide in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eternal%20Witness&quot;&gt;Eternal Witness&lt;/a&gt; to get it back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Is my understanding of the rules correct?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastEditorUserId="15600" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T23:35:42.333" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T23:35:42.333" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29556" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29554" CreationDate="2016-04-01T23:07:41.260" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Paquette will have to activate the Blinkmoth Nexus at some point or lose the Glimmervoid. The two scenarios are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nexus is activated during the endstep with the glimmervoid trigger on the stack. Simply slide out the nexus after it becomes a creature (but before the glimmervoid trigger,) it will be gone until the next endstep because this endstep has already begun!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nexus is activated before the endstep. &#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If its your opponents turn, slide out your Viridian Shaman, and target the nexus during the endstep, the glimmervoid will be destroyed during your next endstep*. If you slide the nexus, your oppenent would be able to reactivate it on their turn because of the APNAP** ordering of triggers, (better to destroy the artifact now.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If it is your turn, Simply slide out the nexus after it has become a creature but before the endstep* and the glimmer void will be destroyed before the nexus returns. Due to APNAP** your slide trigger is below their glimmervoid trigger, and they won't have the nexus back until the glimmervoid is already dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*because of the intervening if clause, the trigger will not trigger if the clause is not satisfied at the beginning of the end step (intervening if clauses are checked twice, once to trigger, and once on resolution!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;** APNAP is Active Player, Non-Active Player, it is how simultaneous triggers are resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.b. it seems Paquette's best play in this, contrived, situation is to simply let the glimmervoid die, that way they can keep the nexus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="12678" LastEditDate="2016-04-01T23:38:44.957" LastActivityDate="2016-04-01T23:38:44.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29558" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T00:00:29.433" Score="0" ViewCount="274" Body="&lt;p&gt;opening bid, I have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: AKQ9873&#xA;H: AQ&#xA;D: xx&#xA;C: Qx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I ever justify opening 4 spades?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have more than eight tricks in my own hand, with seven of them in spades. At the same time, I fear the weakness of my minor suit doubletons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15806" LastEditorUserId="2364" LastEditDate="2016-04-03T20:04:44.533" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T14:44:39.893" Title="Opening bid in first seat" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29558" CreationDate="2016-04-02T01:23:57.313" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tl;dr: No, bid 1♠.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many different sets of bidding conventions in bridge. In the one I learned (some further information here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.rpbridge.net/3j00.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.rpbridge.net/3j00.htm&lt;/a&gt;), 4♠ is a preemptive bid that signals a very long spade suit (which you have) and several points below the regular opening strength of 12 high card points. Your hand is too strong for that (even if you play where the unprotected Qs aren't worth points), so you should bid 1♠ instead and then further tell your partner about your amazing spade suit by rebidding it at your next opportunity, probably jumping a level when you do so (e.g. 1♠ - 2♣ - 3♠).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While other conventions may differ somewhat, it is unlikely that any will tell you to open 4♠ with that hand. This is because, although your hand is quite likely to make 4♠, if your partner has any strength you might be able to make a slam instead, but if you start the bidding high then there's very little bidding space for you and your partner to figure that out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T01:30:11.673" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T01:30:11.673" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29565" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-02T12:49:25.337" Score="1" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;In which order are cards returned from the graveyard with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401947&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;March from the Tomb&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Return any number of target Ally creature cards with total converted mana cost 8 or less from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, if one of the returned cards is &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401929&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kalastria Healer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Rally — Whenever Kalastria Healer or another Ally enters the battlefield under your control, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I return Kalastria first such that the additional allies entering the battlefield trigger the &lt;code&gt;Rally&lt;/code&gt; ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15810" LastEditorUserId="15810" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T12:56:55.083" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T12:56:55.083" Title="In what order do creatures return from the graveyard with &quot;March from the Tomb&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-02T14:40:03.040" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29558" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:14:02.060" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your hand is &lt;strong&gt;too strong&lt;/strong&gt; to open four spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might bid like that with AKQ9873 of spades and no other honors. That's because you will be able to take seven tricks in your own hand, but have &quot;no defense&quot; outside of spades. Your ace will likely take one trick against a presumed singleton, but the opponents have a small slam, if partner has nothing.If playing &quot;strong&quot; pre-empts, I might bid four spades with AKQ9873 of spades and Qx of clubs, but two little hearts instead of AQ, in fourth seat, but not first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With one additional ace in your hand and two queens outside of spades, the opponents do not have a potential slam, and probably no game, since your weakness is in the minor suits. So you don't worry about partner having &quot;nothing,&quot; because you can defeat, and probably double your opponents on your own if they tried to outbid you for a game. You have the spade suit, so they will have to bid the game at the five level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, bid &quot;normally&quot; with one spade, and give partner a chance to respond naturally, since you are in first seat. If you start too high, you are &quot;preempting&quot; &lt;strong&gt;partner,&lt;/strong&gt; not the opponents. With so many extra points coming from extra trumps and &quot;distribution,&quot; &lt;strong&gt;someone&lt;/strong&gt; (partner or opponent) is going to bid. Unless this is a very weak group, you will not be passed out. (And if you are, you might want to find another group.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other thing: your hand is almost, but not quite good enough for a &quot;demand&quot; bid of two clubs, that forces partner to bid two diamonds (or higher) unless the opponents intervene. Change the queen of clubs to the ace, or a small diamond into the king, and I would bid two clubs. That is a &quot;lower&quot; bid that leaves more room for partner's response than four spades. Depending on what partner has (and bids), you would likely either play the hand, or double the opponents for a profit if you were strong enough to bid two clubs. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-04-02T22:07:12.113" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T22:07:12.113" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29567" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28391" CreationDate="2016-04-02T19:47:58.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given the size of White's territory, you are probably behind. Then the question is, can you catch up, and if so, how? I'll save the first question for last, and answer the others in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) You have the choice of ONE invasion point, a, b, or c (or some alternatives mentioned by other posters). Choosing one strengthens White sufficiently to preclude the others. Of three choices, b is &quot;neither here nor there,&quot; and is least likely to work. If you want to invade around there, use the second-line &quot;submarine&quot; tactics suggested by others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) You can hope for a 10-15 point reduction by invading at c. That's not small, and is enough to decide an otherwise close game in your favor. An invasion at a) is potentially larger, 25-30 points, but it will be in ko, which is to say that you might net only the 10-15 that you would get &quot;for sure&quot; with c.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) The decision should have been made earlier, but &quot;better late than never.&quot; This is your &quot;last clear chance&quot; to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The ko that would result from an invasion at a is quite large. If your position is so shaky that you would lose every fight for a 25-30 point ko, you're probably lost anyway. If c doesn't work for you, your best hope is that you win the ko at a, by losing only 5-10 points to a ko threat, and winning 25-30 points as compensation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T19:47:58.770" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29568" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29569" CreationDate="2016-04-02T20:11:04.583" Score="2" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing the scheme &lt;em&gt;Invade the Daily Bugle News HQ&lt;/em&gt;, I ended up having a single villain in the city: Doppelganger from Maximum Carnage. I drew a Scheme Twist card, which triggers the following event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;KO a Hero from the HQ. Put the highest [attack] Villain from the city into the HQ space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This required me to put Doppelganger in the HQ. Doppelganger's card reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Doppelganger's [attack] is equal to the [cost] of the Hero in the HQ space under him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that Doppelganger is in the HQ, what is his attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T23:53:04.137" Title="What is Doppelganger's attack when in the HQ?" Tags="|legendary-marvel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29569" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29568" CreationDate="2016-04-02T23:53:04.137" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Doppelganger's attack would then be 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.upperdeck.com/OP/RuleBooks/Legendary_Rules-Paint_The_Town_Red.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules insert for Paint the Town Red&lt;/a&gt; explicitly covers this case under the Card Clarification for the Invade the Daily Bugle HQ scheme:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a Villain in the HQ space under Doppelganger, or if Doppelganger is in the HQ, then Doppelganger's [attack] is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-04-02T23:53:04.137" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29570" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2468" CreationDate="2016-04-03T05:05:12.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's totally clear, A wins. And yes, deserves a slap for having the game continue and giving people false hopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can you get 10 points before your turn? It's happened to me. I had 8 points in a game and a pretty long road, but not the longest. A player built a settlement cutting the longest road in half, and I now had the longest road and 10 points. But it was not my turn yet. So I had to wait until my turn to declare the victory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the only real scenario I can contemplate getting more VPs on another player's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15814" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T05:05:12.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29575" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T19:08:46.267" Score="4" ViewCount="2418" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you build a wonder that gives you another turn &lt;strong&gt;as the last turn in an age&lt;/strong&gt;, and there are no cards left, do you forfeit the extra turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T19:11:48.827" Title="Do you get an extra turn at the end of the age?" Tags="|7-wonders-duel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29575" CreationDate="2016-04-03T19:11:48.827" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rulebook in small italicized text on page ten above the header &lt;code&gt;1. Construct a Building&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player has a replay effect that would allow them to take another turn at the end of an Age (when the structure is empty), the effect is lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T19:11:48.827" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29577" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29582" CreationDate="2016-04-03T19:21:35.167" Score="5" ViewCount="4627" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a yellow card that gives you the right to buy something for one coin, do the opponent's resources still take effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if my opponent has two stone and I have the card that changes the trading rules for stone, if I need to buy one extra stone would I pay &lt;strong&gt;one coin&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;3 coins&lt;/strong&gt; (one coin plus one coin for every resource my opponent has)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T07:21:26.567" Title="Yellow cards that change the trading rules: how many coins should I pay?" Tags="|7-wonders-duel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29578" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14432" CreationDate="2016-04-03T20:54:39.900" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot call another player dead based on what you see in your hand. You must be able to validate your claim based on exposures and what is on the table.&#xA;NML Rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15819" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T20:54:39.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29579" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-03T22:28:20.817" Score="2" ViewCount="762" Body="&lt;p&gt;Monopoly is pretty infamous for sucking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone ever reconstructed the rules from the ground up to make it a better game? If it were a video game I'd ask for a total conversion mod or something like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are lots of house rules and other options in the rule manual and to be found online, but I'm looking for a comprehensive overhaul that keeps the idea of the game but is more fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried searching the internet, but all I can find are references to McDonald's Monopoly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15820" LastActivityDate="2016-04-03T22:28:20.817" Title="Is there a set of better rules for Monopoly?" Tags="|house-rules|monopoly|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-04T01:29:12.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29580" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T02:32:11.313" Score="8" ViewCount="441" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the new 2015 edition of Carcassonne Inns and Cathedrals, there are yellow roof buildings on some of the road pieces. Are these inns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vo21.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3vo21.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;yellow roofed building in question&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12542" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T02:57:04.280" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T03:58:55.540" Title="Are the yellow roof buildings inns?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29580" CreationDate="2016-04-04T03:58:55.540" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that's just scenery. The inns all have lakes next to them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/en-carcassonnne-ii-ext1-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This copy of the rules&lt;/a&gt; appears to be for the new edition (it says ©2002, 2015 and it doesn't look quite like my copy of the original edition) and the inns all have an obvious lake right next to them. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lD5IK.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lD5IK.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T03:58:55.540" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29577" CreationDate="2016-04-04T07:08:35.600" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Regardless of the number of resource producing buildings your opponent has, you always get to buy the given resource for 1 coin&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Quote from the official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some commercial Buildings (yellow cards) change the trading rules and&#xA;  set the cost of some resources to 1 coin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastEditorUserId="10208" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T07:21:26.567" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T07:21:26.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29584" CreationDate="2016-04-04T07:42:13.233" Score="7" ViewCount="1903" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making an app for assist player during Magic gameplay, and I'd like to add a section for drafting.&#xA;But I can't find anything official, the only official source about it, is inside the comprehensive rules document, in the paragraph about Conspiracy Draft.&#xA;It only say that a draft consists of three &lt;em&gt;draft rounds&lt;/em&gt;, in which a player drafts one card in front of him, then passes the rest to the next player (in the first and third rounds the booster pack are passed on the left and on the second to the right).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I go to play, the tournament organizer has an app that sets a timer for each round, every &quot;draft&quot; from the same booster becomes progressively shorter, and the last two last no more than 5 s. Also, the third round is overall shorter than the first two (as a player now knows what deck he can build).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I haven't found anything from Wizards about timing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are all these rules house rules or there are some guidelines from Wizards? I'd prefer to stick to those if they exists.&#xA;But if they don't, how do you manage timing in your drafts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15822" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-04T11:15:22.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T13:53:31.467" Title="How long should a draft round last by official rules?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29583" CreationDate="2016-04-04T08:23:23.580" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wizards of the Coast makes no official rules on timing the draft phase&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; cover drafting in section 7.7 and do mention timed drafts, but make no mention how those timing rules look, so tournament organizers are free to implement their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T08:23:23.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29585" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29588" CreationDate="2016-04-04T11:46:17.587" Score="5" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if here is a correct place for this kind of question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We had team-matches last weekend(total VP score being 20 for each match). In the first match our teammates in the other table were not ready on time. The rule was like this: -1 VP for each 5 minutes. They were exactly 23 minutes late and so the directors agreed for -5 VP penalty for the match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we played and could only take 4 VP out of 20. Score was 16-4 (we lost). Then directors applied -5 VP late penalty and we got -1 VP for the match. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Directors said that if we hadn't play the match we would get 0 VP. We played and got -1 VP. They say that the idea behind the decision is 'We tried out our chance. By playing we may have earn more than 0 VP, so negative VP is possible.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I am looking from a different perspective. With a sporting perspective (I think) a team should not get less point than not-playing the match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anybody enlighten me about this issue?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am asking this here because I noticed that they were not confident about the decision. At the end of the weekend we were eliminated from the tournament for just 0.9 VP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15824" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:27:31.707" Title="Can a team-match VP score be negative?" Tags="|bridge|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T12:21:21.967" Score="2" ViewCount="144" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can censor players on the Internet Go Server (IGS)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says in the help you can block players from matches by &quot;censoring&quot; them, but there is no &quot;censor&quot; command.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15825" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:03:26.630" Title="How can I &quot;censor&quot; players on the IGS server?" Tags="|go|online|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="7" ClosedDate="2016-08-24T02:37:30.567" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29554" CreationDate="2016-04-04T13:00:33.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The way I see it, it comes down to which would resolve first, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimmervoid&quot;&gt;Glimmervoid&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20Slide&quot;&gt;Astral Slide&lt;/a&gt;. If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20Slide&quot;&gt;Astral Slide&lt;/a&gt;, which would have to be triggered on Paquette's turn, resolves first and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Viridian%20Shaman&quot;&gt;Viridian Shaman&lt;/a&gt; comes back from exile, then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; would get destroyed if it was an artifact. Paquette could get around this by activating &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; ability to become a creature after &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20Slide&quot;&gt;Astral Slide&lt;/a&gt; resolves but before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Glimmervoid&quot;&gt;Glimmervoid&lt;/a&gt; could resolve. If Glimmervoid resolves first, it would stay in play if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; was an artifact but then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blinkmoth%20Nexus&quot;&gt;Blinkmoth Nexus&lt;/a&gt; would get destroyed when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Astral%20slide&quot;&gt;Astral slide&lt;/a&gt; resolves since it resolves at the beginning of end step, not the end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15598" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T13:00:33.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29585" CreationDate="2016-04-04T13:51:56.113" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Until a few years ago most Victory Scales awarded negative VPs to a blitzed team. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgebase.com/forums/topic/55389-wbf-vp-scale-changes/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This link&lt;/a&gt; makes reference to such.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, by not being at the table on time, ready to play, your teammates are introducing a very disruptive effect on the entire tourney. Your opponents have paid to have an opponent and you have declined to show, for no good reason, and with inadequate warning to allow alternate arrangements to be made. Read the fine print - once you paid your entry fee you contracted to appear and play according to the conditions of contest. Accept your medicine and learn better for next time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alexander Woo's comment to the questions inspired me to check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.acbl.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Swiss-Teams.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;ACBL General Conditions of Contest for Swiss Teams&lt;/a&gt;. In those it is clear that penalties for &lt;em&gt;tardiness to arrive&lt;/em&gt; are assessed in IMP's even when the match scoring is in VP's, although the penalties for &lt;em&gt;slow play&lt;/em&gt; are assessed in VP's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;TARDINESS   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A team that fails to seat four players by the announced start of a match is subject to&#xA;  penalty. The record of a team whose opponents incur a penalty will not be affected&#xA;  (improved).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In addition, one board shall be removed from play eight minutes after the start of the&#xA;  match and another board removed seven minutes thereafter. Three IMPs will be&#xA;  awarded the non-offending team for each board so removed. If a team has not seated&#xA;  four players when one-third of the time of the match has expired, that team shall forfeit&#xA;  the match. At any method of scoring, the teams are assigned a result as though the nonoffending&#xA;  team had won by three IMPs and the loser is assigned zero. ....&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T14:27:31.707" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T14:27:31.707" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29583" CreationDate="2016-04-04T13:53:31.467" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Appendix B of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; provides required and suggested time limits for official events. Check this document for all the details you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Required&lt;/em&gt; minimum game time is 40 minutes. Recommended game time for typical Limited/Constructed Swiss rounds is 50 minutes.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;WotC recommends giving players 30 minutes to register and construct a draft deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The individual booster draft timer values in judge apps come from a chart in Appendix B (page 43 as of the current revision). Note the sentence after the chart that provides short &quot;evaluation&quot; periods in between packs as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that organizers &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; allowed to deviate from most of these conditions, but are required to announce it clearly in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T13:53:31.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29590" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29337" CreationDate="2016-04-04T15:58:46.157" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Without answering for the designers, I'd say that it's simply because &lt;strong&gt;the Runner's MU is a basic game rule&lt;/strong&gt;. It's not something that typically changes with Runners, but it's a resource to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the Runner identities don't tell you how many cards are in your starting hand, or how much money you start with, but that doesn't prevent there from being a Runner identity that does these things differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because, in most cases, the Runner identity doesn't play around with MU (compare to Link; most Runners have 0 but a lot have 1), it's just not useful to spend card space and player attention on the Runner's starting MU. It would be more distracting to see starting MU on the card, as if it were an important factor in how the Runner works, even though [almost] all of them are identical in that regard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T15:58:46.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29140" CreationDate="2016-04-04T17:06:24.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation you are describing is called a &lt;code&gt;seki&lt;/code&gt; or possibly just a &lt;code&gt;point of contention&lt;/code&gt; on the board.  There are two ways to look at the situation.  The first addresses the your questions and the second is a little more theoretical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;First&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is the end of the game and both players have passed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you both agree that that area is &lt;code&gt;unplayable&lt;/code&gt; and a &lt;code&gt;seki&lt;/code&gt; then those spaces are not counted for either player.  For example, in Japanese counting you might just fill those spaces with stones from your bowls; move areas around for easier counting; and then determine the score.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If either player &lt;code&gt;contests&lt;/code&gt; the area then play resumes and that player will attempt to play in and capture the area.  Play then ends again when both players have passed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see the area may or may not be in an absolute sense a &lt;code&gt;seki&lt;/code&gt;, but that doesn't matter for the purposes of playing.  Players can only play at their own level and see how to play through positions at that level.  So, it is possible to incorrectly agree that an area is a &lt;code&gt;seki&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;dead&lt;/code&gt; and belonging to either white or black, or any number of other errors.  But, for the purposes of playing and learning, as long as both players agree that is how that area will be counted.  You will especially see this kind of thinking during tournaments were there is no official observer for each game.  It is then the losing players job, having agreed to the loss, to report the outcome of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Second&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Often times during post game analysis with a stronger player (s)he might explain that the area was not in fact a &lt;code&gt;seki&lt;/code&gt; (or &lt;code&gt;dead&lt;/code&gt; in the case of a life and death situation that was not fully played out) and that one player could have proceeded along some sequence of moves to capture the other.  In these cases it doesn't change the outcome of the game it only changes the players' understanding of the game and how it &quot;could&quot; have changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15828" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T17:06:24.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27163" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:25:35.443" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is &lt;strong&gt;white to play&lt;/strong&gt; then he pushes through and cuts and this will probably result in both groups living. White will capture the two stones on the right and Black will escape out the bottom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it is &lt;strong&gt;black to play&lt;/strong&gt; then he can capture the white stones by playing at the point above the marked stone. It is easy to see that in that situation Black has four external liberties, but White has only three internal and external liberties combined and therefore it is not a seki, Black will win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15825" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T20:25:35.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29299" CreationDate="2016-04-04T20:46:11.577" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ELO system, as it was originally designed, has a mean of 1500 and a standard deviation of 400 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The central limit theorem defines how many people can exist by this model depending on their distance from the mean. For example, a rating of 3100 is 4 standard deviations from the mean (1500 + 4 x 400 = 3100). According the central limit theorem there would be 99.993666% within 4 standard deviations, or about only 1 out 16,000 players which would be outside of this. Of course, we know there are no human players rated higher than 3100 so, we can see at once that the ELO system does not work correctly. If the players followed a normal distribution, then we would expect there to be, out of 1 million or so players, about 80 with a rating higher than 3100, but this is not the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, as to an igo player having a rating above 3600, that is 5.25 standard deviations above the mean (1500 + 5.25 x 400). According to the central limit theorem there should be one person out of 10 million that has this rating. If we assume there there 10 million &lt;em&gt;rated&lt;/em&gt; go players and there is one above 3600 then that fits with the model.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two problems with comparing the two ratings for the champions. One is that the distribution of the players, certainly in chess, and possibly in igo, is not a normal Gaussian distribution, so the ELO system will always be wrong to an extent. Secondly, many rating systems, especially chess's FIDE system do not use pure ELO, but manipulate the rating in various ways. Also, the FIDE system has no set mean and has only a small number of players in it, not the entire world population of chess players. Therefore, it is difficult to draw any meaning from the comparison.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15825" LastActivityDate="2016-04-04T20:46:11.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-04T23:53:06.027" Score="1" ViewCount="611" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I move my fighters into combat and they can't make it back to sea, can I use my non-combat move phase to move my carriers to make it possible for them to land?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am playing Axis and Allies 1940, 2nd Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15833" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T02:06:39.457" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T03:03:46.770" Title="If a fighter can't land during combat, can they land on carriers moved to them during the non-combat move phase?" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28867" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:25:58.160" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No; FFG don't host official Citadels tournament events (evidence includes &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2015/10/2/announcing-2016-store-championships/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this page&lt;/a&gt; which lists games supported for store championship events).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only tournament I could find online run by players was &lt;a href=&quot;http://anime-kpi.net/bbs/index.php/topic,3216.0.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt;, which used only the base game (not the Dark City cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:25:58.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29596" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28309" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:31:07.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As it's written, drawing a hand confers no advantage to the people who played the top cards. It's not that the same hand continues, it's just that there's now a bonus stack of cards available for the winner of the next hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this way, if your last card was put into the middle like this then you're simply out of the game. You didn't win the hand, and you have no way to win the next hand to claim the bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now for the extra bit that the rules don't cover: if you were the player choosing the category and this happened, I'd have the next player either become someone else at random, someone who's obviously doing the worst, or just have you pick the category but not play a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:31:07.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27282" CreationDate="2016-04-05T08:36:51.010" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/BD640679-D56F-E112-4AAD860D844EDC4C.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turbo rules&lt;/a&gt;, the electronic timer lasts 60 seconds. This is the same as the egg timer in the base game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't speak to the colour probabilities or guarantee that there isn't a mechanism to (for example) ensure that a mix of colours comes up, but I think uniformly randomly choosing a colour is a fair and fine way of doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T08:36:51.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29457" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:06:23.830" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/39/c1/39c182c1-6b0d-46c4-b5eb-dd6886b4c798/eh01_reference_guide1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules reference&lt;/a&gt;, page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator can resolve a Spell card's effect as described on the&#xA;  card. A Spell card’s effect may be triggered by a specific event or&#xA;  require an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't explicitly define a &quot;Spell Effect&quot;, so we use the above to determine that it means the effect of a Spell card, whether cast or activated otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T09:06:23.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29599" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:13:34.437" Score="4" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gustcloak%20Savior&quot;&gt;Gustcloak Savior&lt;/a&gt; in my token commander deck because I'm assuming after I remove my blocked creatures from combat that my opponents can't reassign their blockers. Am I incorrect? If so, it totally defeats my purpose of having it in there and I'd like to open up the spot for something more productive with my theme.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15630" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T09:26:18.290" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T11:25:40.640" Title="Does Gustcloak Savior's ability leave the door open for blockers to be reassigned?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29599" CreationDate="2016-04-05T09:23:23.903" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;That's correct, your opponents can't just reassign their blockers. Combat works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Beginning_of_combat_step&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Beginning of combat step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggered abilities go on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then, the active player gets priority and can activate spells and abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_attackers_step&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Declare attackers step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player declares their attackers. (rule 508.1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggered abilities go on the stack, again. (508.2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player gets priority, again. (508.3) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_blockers_step&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Declare blockers step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The defending player(s) declare their blockers. (509.1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage assignment order is worked out by the attacker then the blocker. (509.2 and .3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggered abilities go on the stack, again. (509.4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The active player gets priority, again. (509.5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then combat damage happens, then so does end of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guess when they declare their blockers? Step 3.1. Guess when the Gustcloak ability triggers? Step 3.3, after all blockers were already declared and you know how damage will be dished out. They don't get to go back and revise. There is no &quot;reassign blockers&quot; or &quot;declare more blockers&quot; step after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent now has at least one blocker now blocking nothing, and you've saved your creature from attack, and that's that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T11:25:40.640" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T11:25:40.640" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29436" CreationDate="2016-04-05T10:04:29.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;First let's look at the normal rules. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/j3719-0920.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for scoring state that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The first player to get rid of their cards receives points for cards left in all of players' hands&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player gets rid of all their cards first, they will be the scoring player even if they end up with cards and someone else does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; say that cards in your own hand count against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules specify &quot;all of players' hands&quot; and do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; exclude yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thus you score points normally from any cards in your own hand at the end of the round.&lt;/strong&gt; This statement is true in either variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &quot;getting caught&quot; variant, you only count the cards in your hand. If you have cards in your hand for any reason, they will count against you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T10:04:29.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29603" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-05T13:08:11.470" Score="3" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have searched and searched and cannot find any information about this game. It is wooden, has a slot for pennies that fall around pins with the points listed where the pennies fall.  We can't find a company name. Specifically we would love to know when it was made and who it was made by. A little history. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if this group can help or could lead me to who can. Thanks so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15839" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T13:12:28.767" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:12:28.767" Title="Information about &quot;Make Twenty One, no more, no less&quot; wooden Tabletop Game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29603" CreationDate="2016-04-05T13:11:24.527" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plinko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Plinko&lt;/a&gt;. I know it from the Price is Right, but commercial versions are likely out there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T13:11:24.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29605" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29606" CreationDate="2016-04-05T14:37:38.227" Score="2" ViewCount="2782" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I decide to throw away my hand and use a mulligan, should I simply draw a new hand from the library or shuffle my thrown hand into the library before redrawing? I'm mostly interested in &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/magic-the-gathering&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;magic-the-gathering&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;magic-the-gathering&lt;/a&gt; mulligan rules, but I believe a &quot;mulligan&quot; isn't system-specific; I'd accept a well-sourced system-agnostic answer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15823" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T19:49:19.483" Title="When I take a mulligan, should I shuffle my library first?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mulligans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29605" CreationDate="2016-04-05T14:40:39.993" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic you always shuffle your hand into your library then draw a new hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;103.4.&lt;/strong&gt; [...] To take a mulligan, a player shuffles his or her hand back into his or her library, then draws a new hand of one fewer cards than he or she had before. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T19:49:19.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T19:49:19.483" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29558" CreationDate="2016-04-05T14:44:39.893" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;That particular hand should certainly be opened 1♠.  4♠ is a preempt, as has been noted; it's often a &lt;em&gt;preempt-to-make&lt;/em&gt;, meaning a hand that you think has a decent shot at actually making 4♠, but only because of the distribution.  However, if you'd make that bid with this hand, how will your partner know whether it's appropriate to bid on to slam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a good convention for handling &quot;strong and long&quot; hands like this, though; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bridgeguys.com/Conventions/Namyats.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NAMYATS&lt;/a&gt;.  I play that it requires eight cards in the suit, but some play it with seven, and splits the bidding this way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 cards, 6-7 tricks: 4♠&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 cards, 8-8.5 tricks: 4&amp;#9830;, with your partner then having the choice of either accepting the transfer (just bidding 4&amp;spades;), bidding 4&amp;hearts;to give some options (you will then bid 4&amp;spades;, and he/she can either pass to have you play the hand or can bid on to show a &quot;strong&quot; hand). Also on the table is 4NT (typically a form of Blackwood, though you can play other things there) or 5 of another suit (usually either showing or asking for control, perhaps a splinter-type bid).   Advanced partnerships will have very specific meanings for these bids (and often specific to the partnership), and will also have an agreement to tailor hands that are allowed to bid NAMYATS to their bidding system and style.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The same applies for hearts (with clubs being the strong bid).  This allows you to tell your partner the difference between a &quot;good&quot; 4&amp;#9824; and a &quot;poor&quot; one, and gives your partner some very powerful responses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11689" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T14:44:39.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29608" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29613" CreationDate="2016-04-05T16:04:01.153" Score="3" ViewCount="188" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Nomads&lt;/em&gt; expansion has a Shepherds Ambassadors Kingdom Builder cards, which give you gold during the game for building in certain places (solo terrain hexes and next to other players, respectively). &lt;strong&gt;Do you get gold by &lt;em&gt;moving&lt;/em&gt; a settlement into a qualifying hex&lt;/strong&gt; via locations like Paddock and Caravan?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:02:53.113" Title="Does Shepherds/Ambassadors give me gold when I build by moving a settlement?" Tags="|kingdom-builder|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29496" CreationDate="2016-04-05T17:00:41.280" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, its about the same as Pandemic with two players.  You have the advantage of a lot less happening between your turns, so you are better able to predict and react to the state of the board.  And if you get players with strong abilities, you'll be able to use them more times during a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside is that you lack versatility in being able to have lots of special powers that can be applied to different situations, you can't have presence in as many places on the board, and you have a lot less cards in hand collectively, so you need to be careful about how you go for cures.  Also, the Dispatcher role in particular is significantly weakened with fewer players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are elements that come up in Legacy that amplify each of these, but nothing that dramatically changes them.  I would say that I typically find games with fewer players slightly easier, but Legacy has some elements that auto-correct the difficulty so it shouldn't be a problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T17:10:24.377" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:10:24.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28187" CreationDate="2016-04-05T17:43:46.863" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It would depend on whose turn it is. The turn player has priority, which means that their effect goes onto the chain first. If the turn player has a Goyo Guardian for example, and they attack a graydle, then Goyo's effect is chain 1. Then the graydle's effect goes onto chain 2. The chain is resolved backwards, which means that the graydle effect happens first, which takes control of the Goyo, and brings back the graydle from the grave, which means that Goyo Guardian's effect would not trigger due to the target no longer being in the grave.&lt;br/&gt;It would be reversed if it was the graydle player's turn. The graydle would get chain 1, and goyo would get chain 2 which, again, resolves backwards. Goyo would revive the graydle, forcing the graydle to be on the field instead of the grave, so the graydle's ability would not be able to trigger.&lt;br/&gt;You can apply the example to cards other than Goyo guardian to get whatever answer you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:43:46.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29496" CreationDate="2016-04-05T17:44:50.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The biggest spoiler-free Legacy-specific difference is probably in the end-game upgrades: if any given character gets half the player turns instead of a quarter, buffing a character becomes comparatively more powerful. By the same logic, the amount of damage a single Scar can do to a smaller team is greater. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I think the most important differences are the same as those of the base game (and are covered in this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13116/is-pandemic-harder-with-fewer-players&quot;&gt;other question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T17:44:50.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25627" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:01:19.857" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No Juragedo does not &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; cause a replay. A replay only occurs if the number of monsters on the field changes while an attack is being declared, but before the damage step. Therefore Juragedo &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; cause a replay, but does not always cause one. If Juragedo is summoned as soon as the Battle Phase starts, then a replay will not occur, but if it is summoned immediately after an attack, then a replay will occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:01:19.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29608" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:02:53.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say no. &lt;em&gt;Moving&lt;/em&gt; a settlement is not &lt;em&gt;building&lt;/em&gt; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The active player must check whether the conditions on red cards have been met &lt;strong&gt;after building each single new settlement&lt;/strong&gt;. If these conditions have been fulfilled, the player immediately records the gold earned on the score track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This interpretation is confirmed by the BoardGameGeek’s FAQs &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Kingdom_Builder%3A_Nomads_FAQ#toc13&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shepherds only gives points for built, not moved, settlements&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Kingdom_Builder%3A_Nomads_FAQ#toc15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ambassadors only give points for built, not moved, settlements&lt;/a&gt;. Both reference the thread &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/thread/797783/questions-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Questions on rules&lt;/a&gt;, in which Kingdom Builder’s game designer Donald X. &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/article/9068478#9068478&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;answered&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No. Shepherds and Ambassadors do not score for moved pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:02:53.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29614" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29615" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:30:01.453" Score="4" ViewCount="3661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; work with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fall%20of%20the%20Hammer&quot;&gt;Fall of the Hammer&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=174951&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soul's Fire&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tail%20Slash&quot;&gt;Tail Slash&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would it spread to the other creatures? Does &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=174951&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Soul's Fire's&lt;/a&gt; ability to target a player change this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T19:06:21.577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T19:10:20.187" Title="Does Zada, Hedron Grinder work with Soul's Fire and other similar instants?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29615" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29614" CreationDate="2016-04-05T18:32:05.027" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it would not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zada:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell that targets only Zada, Hedron Grinder, copy that spell for each other creature you control that the spell could target. Each copy targets a different one of those creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fall of the Hammer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Target creature you control deals damage equal to its power to another target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there are two instances of the word &quot;target&quot; (and Zada can't be both), Zada is not the only target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;I suppose Soul's Fire could target Zada herself, so each creature you control would deal damage to itself&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T18:32:05.027" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29617" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29619" CreationDate="2016-04-05T21:50:08.960" Score="4" ViewCount="2103" Body="&lt;p&gt;In trying to figure out where my head is at to day, here's the following.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%27s%20Fire&quot;&gt;Soul&amp;#39;s Fire&lt;/a&gt;, such that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; will do damage equal to its power to Zada, Hedron Grinder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since a spell was cast that only targets Zada, Hedron Grinder, his triggered ability is placed on the stack on top of Soul's Fire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In response to the triggered ability, Player sacrifices &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Flectomancer&quot;&gt;Goblin Flectomancer&lt;/a&gt;, changing the targets of Soul's Fire, such that Zada, Hedron Grinder will do Damage equal to its power to the opposing Player. Goblin Flectomancer resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered ability of Zada, Hedron Grinder tries to resolve. &lt;strong&gt;Will it check to see if the spell that was CAST only targeting Zada, Hedron Grinder still only targets Zada, Hedron Grinder?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it doesn't, or is satisfied that while the spell currently targets Zada, Hedron Grinder and the opposing player it was CAST only targeting Zada, Hedron Grinder, it will then create a copy of Soul's Fire for each other creature Player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the ability change only the first target, replacing Zada with another creature for each copy, or will it change both?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T22:40:27.740" Title="When does Zada, Hedron Grinder determine if a spell was cast only targeting Zada, Hedron Grinder?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29617" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:00:09.267" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The original spell would be redirected to hit the player, but the other copies would not change targets.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zada%2C%20Hedron%20Grinder&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; has had a ruling that specifies the targets of copies of spells made by Zada when the spell can have more than one target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8/25/2015  If you cast an instant or sorcery spell that has multiple targets, but it’s targeting only Zada with all of them, Zada’s ability will trigger. &lt;strong&gt;The copies will similarly each be targeting only one of your other creatures.&lt;/strong&gt; You can’t change any of the copy’s targets to other creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't say that the copies will have the same targets as Zada, with the exception of replacing Zada with another creature. It says that the copies will each be targeting only one of your other creatures. The last line also seems to imply that even if you had another &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Flectomancer&quot;&gt;Goblin Flectomancer&lt;/a&gt;, it wouldn't be able to change the targets for the copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of the ruling, the copies of the spell will not have the same targets as Zada, but will be targeting only the creature it was copied for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="15461" LastEditDate="2016-04-05T22:40:27.740" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T22:40:27.740" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29617" CreationDate="2016-04-05T22:37:37.277" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zada's ability will resolve, and each of the copies will only target the corresponding creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, when a triggered ability resolves, two conditions are checked to see whether it will continue to resolve. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Resolving_spells_and_abilities&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules 608.2a and 608.2b&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If a triggered ability has an intervening “if” clause, it checks whether the clause’s condition is true. If it isn’t, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Otherwise, it continues to resolve. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 603.4&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. [...] The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal. If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zada's ability has no intervening &amp;quot;if&amp;quot; clause, and no targets, so once it starts resolving, it will create the copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part of Zada's ability that changes the copies' targets says &amp;quot;Each copy targets a different one of those creatures.&amp;quot; It does not say to set only one target; it simply says that the spell targets the creature. The most reasonable interpretation is that it sets all of the spells target to that creature. This is backed up by a ruling on Zada:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast an instant or sorcery spell that has multiple targets, but it’s targeting only Zada with all of them, Zada’s ability will trigger. The copies will similarly each be targeting only one of your other creatures. You can’t change any of the copy’s targets to other creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ruling is only conditional on what the spell targets when it is cast, not what it targets when the ability resolves. So, any time a spell with multiple targets is cast targeting Zada, the copies each target only one creature, no matter what happened to the spell in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-05T22:37:37.277" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29621" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-06T10:10:50.237" Score="19" ViewCount="1213" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a creature's power and toughness are equal to number of cards in your hand (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=83161&quot;&gt;Maro&lt;/a&gt;), and if I play an enchantment from my hand giving that creature +3/+3 leaving no cards in hand, will it make the creature 0/0 before the enchantment resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15849" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T14:09:16.240" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:42:56.717" Title="How do &quot;Maro&quot; effects work when you cast your last card to pump them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29621" CreationDate="2016-04-06T10:21:05.887" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, the creature would die.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast a spell, you move it from your hand to the stack, and other players get the chance to react to that spell. State-based actions would cause the creature to die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules references:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;601&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Casting Spells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means the card goes from your hand to the stack and will no longer count toward Maro's ability. But even though it's 0/0 at this point, it's not quite dead yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2h Once the steps described in 601.2a–g are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every time, whenever a player gets priority, state-based actions are checked first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;704&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-Based Actions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5. The state-based actions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the spell you cast was your last card in hand, and Maro goes to zero toughness, it will die as soon as you finish casting that spell. By the time it can resolve, Maro is already moved from the battlefield to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are certain spells that require you to discard cards, then draw one or more, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Windfall&quot;&gt;Windfall&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wheel%20of%20Fortune&quot;&gt;Wheel of Fortune&lt;/a&gt;. Those cases are different. During the resolution of such spells, you temporarily go to zero hand cards as well, and Maro goes to 0/0 temporarily, but state-based actions are not checked &lt;strong&gt;during&lt;/strong&gt; resolution, and Maro will not be destroyed because of such a spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.4. Unlike triggered abilities, state-based actions pay no attention to what happens during the resolution of a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2016-04-06T17:42:56.717" LastActivityDate="2016-04-06T17:42:56.717" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29504" CreationDate="2016-04-07T14:56:00.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The use for having more than one unit in a confrontation isn't for increased chances in the battle itself (as you stated in an answer), but for a more stable expansion after the battle. As I am sure you know, after a  territory has been claimed, a chunk of the units in that battle move into the newly acquired territory up to leaving only one unit in the territory that you fought the enemy with. The problem with leaving token units behind and not fortifying them later is an unforeseen expansion into the heart of your territories. Let's say that you have a choke-point claimed that has a surplus of units defending from three separate forces. Because the forces are small enough to not be a major threat, you ignore that part of the board for a few turns and expand outwards elsewhere. Suddenly on the fourth turn, one force draws enough reinforcements to expel the other two from the entire chunk of territories leading up to your border and thus have control of all three territories that threaten the choke-point (providing 3 chances a turn to destroy that border with uncontested reinforcements from its surrounding territories). Since the fastest any unit can move is one territory a turn, if the bulk of your forces are on the other side of the board and your territories behind the wall are too soft, your opponent can take a huge chunk of your territories before you can bolster them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL:DR, It's so you aren't squishy later in the game&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="15064" LastEditDate="2016-04-07T15:12:16.610" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T15:12:16.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29627" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="10931" CreationDate="2016-04-07T16:22:51.687" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is yes, this would be a fight that could happen in the lore. I haven't read the WarMachine books, but the in-game fluff puts Khador and Circle at odds. Those two armies are pretty good matches for each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15859" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T16:22:51.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7267" CreationDate="2016-04-07T16:25:50.610" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgmirror.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MTG Mirror.com&lt;/a&gt; is a free draft/sealed simulator. You can also use &lt;a href=&quot;http://untap.in/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;UnTap.in&lt;/a&gt;, another free site, to test the decks you made to see if they're any good&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15860" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-08T09:23:27.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T09:23:27.613" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29629" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4951" CreationDate="2016-04-07T16:55:46.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use this simple rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There can not be two successive midnights without a doom token.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if one midnight came without a doom token, the next midnight MUST have doom token and all 'unless' things are ignored. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This makes a game a lot harder, basically in all games I played boss needs maybe 1 token to awake and often it leads entire game. It is tested with basic game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It shotrents the game as the doom tokens progress more rapidly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6055" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T16:55:46.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13092" CreationDate="2016-04-07T19:49:54.847" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;May I suggest the monster card effect called &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Exiled_Force&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Exiled Force&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can Tribute this card to &lt;strong&gt;target 1 monster on the field; destroy that target&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option could be the trap card called &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Raigeki_Break&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raigeki Break&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Discard 1 card, then target 1 card on the field; destroy it&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This last one card matches with your requirement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15297" LastActivityDate="2016-04-07T19:49:54.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29631" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-07T23:48:17.047" Score="1" ViewCount="658" Body="&lt;p&gt;After playing several games of Agricola in the family friendly mode, I played a couple of games of the full version with a friend. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we've found is that adding the additional occupations and minor improvements:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adds a lot more time to each person's turn as they consider their strategy for utilising their improvements/occupations. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adds overwhelming complexity to decision making, to the point that the game is simply &lt;em&gt;not fun&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if we're playing it wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What we're doing is we're somehow selecting seven minor improvements and seven occupations to start with. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/28950/how-are-minor-improvement-and-occupation-cards-meant-to-be-selected-for-play&quot;&gt;See this thread for more details.&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player then can look at his two hands at anytime. This is where the additional time comes in, as each player turn the player is considering how they'll use their cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how the game is meant to be played, or have I misinterpreted a rule somewhere? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this is how the game is supposed to be played, are there some good house rules that will reduce the complexity of the game? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T03:46:37.080" Title="Occupations and minor improvements break the game?" Tags="|house-rules|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29633" CreationDate="2016-04-08T00:36:28.217" Score="5" ViewCount="774" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm just playing my first ever (solo) game of Arkham Horror, so I'm still quite new to the nuances of the game, though the overall mechanics are already starting to click.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that you can spend one clue token to get one extra die roll after attempting any skill check in the game. Does this also count for checks when attempting to seal a gate, or is this an exception?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, I have 8 clue tokens, and really would like to seal the explored gate I am on as quickly as possible, rather than waiting turns inbetween attempts.&#xA;Can I then spend clue tokens one at a time to re-roll for any successes needed, and when successful spend 5 tokens to seal the gate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15864" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T01:14:27.070" Title="Possible to spend clue tokens to re-roll attempts at sealing gates?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29632" CreationDate="2016-04-08T01:14:27.070" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can spend clue tokens to roll extra dice for any skill check, including closing gates.  You can spend them one at a time, and stop after you have a success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've successfully closed the gate you can then spend five clue tokens to seal it (assuming you still have that many).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rerolls are different, generally given by skills and items.  With a reroll you reroll &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; dice in the pool, including any added by clue tokens that you have spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T01:14:27.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29169" CreationDate="2016-04-08T02:04:47.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, this is entirely possible under certain circumstances&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You see, the core rules have a section where you can make your war-band. One of the options that you have is taking multiple detachments. Since there are no real restrictions on transports on what they move, unless they are &lt;a href=&quot;http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bKe1Rp0gwzw/U39_Ep7vfaI/AAAAAAAABSs/FUzWeYuEL4s/s1600/allies-chart.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;Allies of Convenience&quot; or worse&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, so long as they are paid for, you can have them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However in order to make this work RAW, you need to build in a specific way. The only ways that make sense is to make the transporter and the riders their own &lt;strong&gt;Combined Arms Detachment&lt;/strong&gt;, or downgrade so that the riders are an &lt;strong&gt;Allied Detatchment&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mywargame.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/foc.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(see the following image)&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, this means that you need at least an HQ and 2 troop units (the troops can take dedicated transports) in order to use that factions' transports (between 3-6 depending if the factions' Heavy Support options have transports). The only other stipulation is that since the units are split between 2 formations, the troops of the rider faction cannot start the game inside of a transport faction vehicle (however they can embark inside of the transport when you start your turn)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T02:04:47.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29635" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T02:19:55.040" Score="2" ViewCount="1362" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been watching a handful of this extended campaign type for a while now and I just saw a video where someone created an Ork war-band by using a dice-roll sheet prepared from custom rules. &lt;strong&gt;Can anyone tell me where to find such custom rules, or how to create a dice-roll sheet for a specific faction?&lt;/strong&gt; I find Path to Glory more in-depth than the core game modes, but I only have regular space marines.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T19:21:28.593" Title="Are there online variants to &quot;Path of Glory&quot;? WH40K" Tags="|house-rules|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29631" CreationDate="2016-04-08T03:46:37.080" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not everyone feels the way you do.  Agricola is rated #7 on BoardGameGeek seven years after it was released.  Agricola is rated as &quot;Medium-Heavy&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31260/agricola&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; with a 3.6 rating out of 5 which means that most people see it as among the more complex games they've played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you enjoy the family game, there's nothing wrong with just playing that.  Without knowing other games that you enjoy, it's hard for me to say whether Agricola is the right game for you, it's one of my favorites.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Play with the E deck only!&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The base game comes with three decks, each with a different purpose. Make sure you are only using the E deck for your first few games to limit the complexity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The decks are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;E - Everyone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I - Interactive&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;K - Complex&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you've been playing with just the E deck already, there are a couple ways to ease into the full game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play solo - this will let you play at your own pace and get some familiarity with the cards.  Despite the large number of cards, many of them are quite similar, or just deal with difference resources in the same way.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draft - Each player draws their cards, picks one of each and hands their cards to the next player.  Repeat until all cards are taken.  This takes a long time to go thru the first couple times.  But it allows everyone to take cards they like.  In most cases, the last few cards you get can be ignored.  Not all 7 are winners :)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw 7, discard 3.  As I said above, not all 7 are winners.  Force everyone to make the choice up front and they'll be quicker during the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T03:46:37.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29637" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-08T07:04:59.503" Score="5" ViewCount="155" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my characters was in The Abyss and had an encounter there, which stated to attempt a luck+1 skill check, which ended up sending my investigator to The Dreamlands. Do I get to immediately have another Other World encounter for The Dreamlands in the same turn, or is this only when the card specifically mentions &quot;..and have an encounter there&quot;? Also, does this sudden shift between Other Worlds mean that my investigator gets delayed, or is this also only if the card specifically says so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15869" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T13:57:15.020" Title="Sent from one Other World to another. Another encounter in the same turn?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29637" CreationDate="2016-04-08T13:57:15.020" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your character moves to the Dreamlands, no further encounter that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the card says &quot;Move to the Dreamlands&quot; the character is not delayed.  If it had said something like &quot;A Gate Opens and pulls you to the Dreamlands&quot; then the character would have been delayed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-04-08T13:57:15.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8137" CreationDate="2016-04-09T00:31:43.390" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The inventor of Jenga actually mentioned this fact on a podcast called How to Do Everything in August of 2015.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-do-everything/id420543296?mt=2&amp;amp;i=349678276&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/how-to-do-everything/id420543296?mt=2&amp;amp;i=349678276&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trick is that the blocks are of slightly different thicknesses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15876" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T00:31:43.390" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29640" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T00:38:57.283" Score="7" ViewCount="3151" Body="&lt;p&gt;So my family and I were playing when one of us landed on the &quot;Go to Jail&quot; space. They went, on their second roll to get out he rolled a double, now since we are playing the advanced game, does he roll the speed die since he is no longer in jail because he rolled a double with the white dice and then move with all three or does he just use the double white dice without the speed die? In the rules it does state not to use the speed die to get out of jail, but he did roll a double without the speed die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15877" LastEditorUserId="2415" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T18:05:36.787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T19:33:15.600" Title="Monopoly (advanced) with speed die" Tags="|house-rules|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29641" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-09T01:29:58.800" Score="1" ViewCount="44" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you clear something up as regards rating time bands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Official or standard grading I always assumed was an hour-and-a-half or more. Am I incorrect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is Blitz an hour or less?&#xA;Is Speedplay 0-15 mins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;FIDE or guidance appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15878" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T05:05:29.540" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T05:05:29.540" Title="what are the differences in timing for chess grading?" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-09T13:39:56.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29642" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25090" CreationDate="2016-04-09T03:04:57.450" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just bought inns and cathedrals today and the new set of needles does include an abbot piece. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T03:04:57.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29643" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29655" CreationDate="2016-04-09T07:05:37.817" Score="4" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not sure if I misunderstood the territory counting rules of Go or simply I ran into a software bug. One of the Go programs I use counts territories like this. Would you explain me please why B6, C8, F7 were not counted for black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m6h7I.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/m6h7I.png&quot; alt=&quot;screenshot&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user15881" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T10:00:16.577" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T10:23:24.330" Title="Is this a correct way to count territory in Go (by Chinese rules)?" Tags="|go|counting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29644" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29715" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:08:40.653" Score="2" ViewCount="1804" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there rules governing playing more than one expansion? &lt;em&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/em&gt; has a couple rules when there is more than one side board attached, but I haven't seen any documentation on modifications to Eldritch Horror rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For an example of what I'm wondering, here is an excerpt from the &lt;em&gt;Innsmouth Horror&lt;/em&gt; expansion for &lt;em&gt;Arkham Horror&lt;/em&gt;, page 6:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The rules are unchanged when using more than one expansion city, except that the number of players should be counted as being one less for each expansion board in play beyond the first. So, if six players are playing a game using both Dunwich and Innsmouth (for a total of two expansion cities), they are counted as having one less player, for a total of five players. This modified number of players is used for such things as the monster limit and the maximum number of gates that can be open at once, and it reduces the level of difficulty for the players since they have so much more ground to cover.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T14:55:40.250" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T14:55:40.250" Title="Are any special rules added if you are playing with more than one expansion?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29645" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29692" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:12:19.953" Score="3" ViewCount="1418" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I cast a spell and then have it traded to another investigator to cast that round?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This would work great with Blessing of Isis to ensure blessings all around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some spells say &quot;once a round you may etc&quot; so my thinking is that &lt;strong&gt;these&lt;/strong&gt; cannot be cast more than once, but the wording literally could still mean each investigator can cast it once per round right?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After all, it would seem like they are meant to keep an investigator from preventing healing or stamina loss from all attacks all the time, which is sensible.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Passing it to another to cast once themselves sounds like a reasonable ruling.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is there an official ruling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T09:17:25.430" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T09:17:25.430" Title="Can I cast a spell multiple times in one round across different investigators if I trade it?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29676" CreationDate="2016-04-09T17:39:32.863" Score="8" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules as written, p. 12, emphasis mine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your Life points fall to zero (as a result of this voluntary sacrifice, or at any other point during the game, regardless of the reason for it), you die and disappear from the game at the end of &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; game turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have one life point remaining. The player to my left begins their turn and plays a black Morgan card, &quot;Each Knight immediately loses 1 Life Point.&quot; Barring being saved by the Grail, what happens? Am I immediately dead and out of the game? Or does play go all the way around the table back to me, where I can take a full turn at zero life points, and then die at the end of &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; turn? The latter seems to be what the rules indicate, but that seems rather... wrong... for this otherwise unforgiving game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6837" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T08:46:48.637" Title="In Shadows Over Camelot, when does a knight die if his life points drop to zero on another player's turn?" Tags="|shadows-over-camelot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29647" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29659" CreationDate="2016-04-09T18:55:46.650" Score="3" ViewCount="655" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say the red player has two metropolises (having upgraded both politics and trade to level 4).  Now the blue player upgrades their politics to level 5 and steals a metropolis from red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who decides which of red's two metropolises will be given to blue?  The significance being that the city losing its metropolis is now susceptible to sacking by the barbarians.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've avoided such ambiguity by throwing out the metropolis tokens and painting the metropolises yellow, green, and blue.  But that's just a house rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15884" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T18:06:59.933" Title="Who decides which metropolis to steal?" Tags="|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29532" CreationDate="2016-04-09T19:11:55.513" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Officially they maintain a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.facebook.com/LegendaryDBG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Facebook page&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/LegendaryDBG&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;twitter account&lt;/a&gt; for Legendary DBGs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but there is no official Errata currently being maintained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-09T19:11:55.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29649" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29651" CreationDate="2016-04-09T19:30:35.937" Score="6" ViewCount="2459" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic Legacy, February gives you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; Quarantine tokens. During the infect phase, if a city card is pulled and there's a quarantine token on that city, you remove the token instead of placing a disease cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what happens if you have an epidemic outbreak on a such a city?  That is, when you draw a card from the bottom of the deck to infect, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; You normally place 3 cubes in that city.  But what if the city has a quarantine token in it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; Does the epidemic take effect as normal? Do you place 1 fewer cube per quarantine token? Does the epidemic simply not take effect and remove the quarantine token instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6652" LastEditorUserId="6652" LastEditDate="2016-04-09T20:25:29.163" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:32:43.880" Title="Pandemic Legacy, February, and Epidemics" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29649" CreationDate="2016-04-10T03:32:43.880" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Remove the marker.  That is the only effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; The Quarantine rules state (2nd paragraph) - When a player is instructed to add &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; amount of disease markers to the city (or any color), remove the quarantine marker instead of adding disease markers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; If the Quarantine Specialist is in the city, do not remove the token!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T03:32:43.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29652" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-10T09:51:58.023" Score="4" ViewCount="609" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the steps for developing a cure in the &quot;Lab challenge&quot; is to test it. To do it a card of the cure color must be put on the test space and one disease cube of the color can be removed from any city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it allowed to test a single cure multiple times? This would make it possible to treat the disease in a far away city (and reducing the number of city cards available for the cure).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cannot find anything about it in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T19:49:52.990" Title="Lab challenge: Can a cure be tested multiple times" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-in-the-lab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29653" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-10T09:54:35.613" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T09:54:35.613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T09:54:35.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29654" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-10T09:54:35.613" Score="0" Body="An expansion for Pandemic that adds a new challenge which changes the way a cure is developed. It also adds rules for playing solo or in teams of two with up to 6 people. " OwnerUserId="3262" LastEditorUserId="3262" LastEditDate="2016-04-10T13:22:29.110" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T13:22:29.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29643" CreationDate="2016-04-10T10:23:24.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those points should count.  There must be a bug in the program.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T10:23:24.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29656" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29667" CreationDate="2016-04-10T11:32:12.540" Score="4" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say a runner accesses an agenda that already has advancement counters on it, but hasn't been scored. As well as the runner stealing the agenda, what happens to the tokens? Are they trashed, or stolen as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15889" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:27:40.880" Title="Accessing advanced agendas" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29658" CreationDate="2016-04-10T13:08:18.260" Score="4" ViewCount="689" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take two possible sources of discard, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sinister%20Concoction&quot;&gt;Sinister Concoction&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Macabre%20Waltz&quot;&gt;Macabre Waltz&lt;/a&gt;. One has a discard as part of the cost, one has a discard as part of the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case (discard as part of the cost), if you discard a madness card, will it resolve &lt;strong&gt;before&lt;/strong&gt; the source ability?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In the second case (discard as part of the ability), will the madness card resolve &lt;strong&gt;after&lt;/strong&gt; the source ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T16:04:42.623" Title="Does how you discard a Madness card affect whether it resolve before its source?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29658" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29657" CreationDate="2016-04-10T13:42:36.373" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes to both questions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Madness is a two-part keyword ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.34a Madness is a keyword that represents two abilities. The first is a static ability that functions while the card with madness is in a player’s hand. The second is a triggered ability that functions when the first ability is applied. “Madness [cost]” means “If a player would discard this card, that player discards it, but exiles it instead of putting it into his or her graveyard” and “When this card is exiled this way, its owner may cast it by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost. If that player doesn’t, he or she puts this card into his or her graveyard.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you discard a Madness card as part of the costs of a spell or ability, the Madness trigger will be on top of the spell or ability that had the discard cost, because putting that spell or ability on the stack is always the very first step, before costs are paid:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. [..]]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the discard happens as part of the effect of a spell or ability, it can obviously only happen after that spell or ability has resolved, not before. The Madness trigger goes on the stack immediately after resolution of that spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T16:04:42.623" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29647" CreationDate="2016-04-10T18:06:59.933" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not explicitly stated in the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A large &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.siedeln.de/faq/166_1260_de.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Catan faq&lt;/a&gt;  (German only) argues that, because the rules don't distinguish between metropoles from different branches, the player who owns them may decide which one to revert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you describe is a common house rule (I use it as well). In the faq it is mentioned that some people paint the metropoles to make this house rule more visible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T18:06:59.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29652" CreationDate="2016-04-10T19:49:52.990" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game designer answered it on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1029461/clarification-test-cure-action&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each cure can only be tested once, because there is only one card supposed to be on each field (although this is never actually stated in the rules). Note that the test card stays in place if the sequence card is exchanged within the color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2016-04-10T19:49:52.990" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29663" CreationDate="2016-04-11T05:50:26.427" Score="20" ViewCount="41451" Body="&lt;p&gt;We are in the combat phase:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I declared my attackers &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My opponent declared his blockers, stating which&#xA;attackers he was blocking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast an instant, which automatically kills his blocker. There is nothing blocking my attacker now&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we're in the damage phase. I said that my attacker now does damage and  reduces my opponent's hit points. My opponent said that because my attacker was blocked no damage could be done. I pointed out that the blocker was destroyed before the damage phase, so therefore he wasn't blocking, but he wasn't having it. (My attacker does not have trample)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this covered by a specific section in the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3546" LastEditorUserId="3546" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T23:38:39.270" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T23:38:39.270" Title="Kill a blocker with an instant - is it still blocking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2017-05-30T05:14:10.947" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29663" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29662" CreationDate="2016-04-11T06:08:47.997" Score="31" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent was right. From the magic comprehensive rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. &lt;strong&gt;A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I bolded the relevant part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T06:08:47.997" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29664" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29666" CreationDate="2016-04-11T11:38:15.880" Score="9" ViewCount="28017" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I've become interested in playing Magic The Gathering. One of my friends, a long time player of the game, has offered me a large box with many random cards in it. He says I'm free to take whatever I like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M39jl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/M39jl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;My friend&amp;#39;s &amp;quot;box &amp;#39;o cards&amp;quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know what colors I enjoy playing, so I've begun digging through hundreds of cards and keeping aside the cards that seem good to me. I'm a real beginner, and although I know how to play, it's hard for me to know which cards are good and which are bad. Some of the good cards hide their strength in subtle ways to use those cards; it's not always blatantly obvious how strong a card really is (to a beginner like me).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After taking something like 120 cards from the box in the colors I liked, I set out to make a deck from it. But it dawned on my I actually have no clue how to build a deck with completely random cards. I know a deck needs to be at least 60 cards, and you are not allowed to have more than half your deck in Land cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/how-to-build-a-deck&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the very basics of deckbuilding&lt;/a&gt;, but usually you start with cards from the same series that are already having some kind of synergy. &lt;strong&gt;How can I efficiently build a deck from a box of completely random cards, spanning series from as old as 1994 to recent modern cards of 2015 and 2016?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is prone to receive a lot of subjective answers, so I'm looking for an answer that is complete, is written from experience rather than opinion and backs up opinion with facts or references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I have done so far, and I feel is inefficient:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Build a stack of 'cards that I like'&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This part is the most time consuming, as I don't recognize any of the cards and I need to read what the card does, then understand if it fits my style of play. The only 'quick filter' I had was looking only at cards that matched my desired colors. &lt;strong&gt;How do I speed up the process of finding cards that fit my play style from a box of random cards?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Lay out the collected cards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I placed the cards in front of me on a table, grouped by mana curve and separated by creature cards and spells. This resulted in two rows per color, each column increasing the converted mana cost. To speed up this process, I first split my stack into new stacks per color. Then, one color at a time, I built up the rows and columns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Apply deckbuilding basics&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I have a good idea of the cards I collected, I can pick the right mix of creatures and spells with a good mana cost distribution. This is the fun part of deckbuilding, and also the part I don't feel I need help with. It's also highly subjective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for answers that can make the first two steps more efficient and less time-consuming. In total I've spent a good 2 hours on the above and I feel I've only scraped the surface of the box 'o cards' potential...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15823" LastActivityDate="2017-08-24T04:11:23.287" Title="How can I efficiently build a deck from a box of random cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29665" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29664" CreationDate="2016-04-11T13:32:35.473" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you have no prior knowledge about the cards you got, and they are from practically all possible sets of Magic since its first release, your card pool will be wildly inconsistent, and synergies between cards will be incidental, if they exist at all. A veteran player can sift through such a pool relatively quickly because he or she would already be familiar with the cards, and recognize good and bad cards from the artwork and/or name alone. As you describe it, you don't have that option, so reading and evaluating all of the cards' properties such as mana cost, abilities, and power/toughness seems to be your only option. You could consider it an opportunity to expand your card knowledge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From experience, a gifted random pool such as yours consists mostly of commons, uncommons, and the occasional &lt;a href=&quot;http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pmwiki.php/Main/JunkRare&quot;&gt;junk rare&lt;/a&gt; (Note, however: &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/making-magic/when-cards-go-bad-2002-01-28&quot;&gt;When cards go bad&lt;/a&gt;, an article about bad rares that I highly recommend). That means, of the archetypes described in the article you linked, Control and especially Combo are outside of your reach. Pure Aggro seems hard as well, because it works only with the most efficient, specialized cards in multiple copies, which your pool is unlikely to provide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves Aggro Control for the archetype you can most likely build with any success. In a nutshell, you want a mix of efficient creatures to actually win the game, and control cards such as creature, artifact, and enchantment removal to allow your creatures to get through.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Efficiency in cards is hard to define because of the large variety of abilities that cards have. For creatures in an Aggro Control decks and without set considerations such as in your case, a good baseline for efficiency is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A vanilla creature (no abilities) with both power and toughness equal to or larger than its converted mana cost,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;such as a 2/2 for 2. Additional stats or beneficial abilities mean the creature is above average efficient and worth considering for inclusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An efficient spell is one that does what it does cheaply for a tempo advantage, or that gives you card advantage, such as destroying 2 or more permanents for one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you have identified all the possible cards for such a deck, you can proceed to get the right mix of creatures and spells, adjust the mana curve, playtest, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T14:00:17.930" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:00:17.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29664" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:18:56.670" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're willing to spend a bit of time up front, you can probably &quot;triage&quot; the cards in a way that might make deck building easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Grab a large section of cards and sort out the colors you are interested in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sort the cards within the colors by the set symbol.  The idea here is that you're more likely to get interesting synergies from cards that are from the same set.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose the sets that have the most cards in them, and sort those into lands, creatures, and non-creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there are still too many cards, you might sort the creatures into ones that share a keyword or troop type.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now you can start your deckbuilding.  Start with creatures and add ones that look interesting until you have about 25 creatures.  Then go to the non-creatures piles for the sets you used, and find 10-12 that go well with the set of creatures you chose, swapping as necessary.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This way you aren't having to read every card, and you're more likely to end up with a deck with at least some interesting interactions.  It isn't going to win a tournament, but it will let you get started, and then you can read more cards as you have time and continue tweaking your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-04-11T23:59:27.760" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T23:59:27.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29656" CreationDate="2016-04-11T14:27:40.880" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;They would be trashed as well.  The runner has no use for those tokens, since they add the agenda to their scored point total as soon as they access it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T14:27:40.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29691" CreationDate="2016-04-11T17:35:23.130" Score="4" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to get advice from strong go players - let's say amateur 6D+ or pros. What are my options for getting that advice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not necessarily looking for full game reviews, rather comments on one or two turning points in a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T13:07:02.367" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T11:14:33.383" Title="How/where can I get comments from strong players on my gameplay?" Tags="|go|teaching|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29670" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29668" CreationDate="2016-04-11T18:42:26.250" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://gtl.xmp.net/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Go Teaching Ladder&lt;/a&gt; is a good place to get comments on your games.  Unless you're already a dan player, you won't get comments from 6d+ players, but you also don't need them.  Your game will be reviewed by a player several stones stronger than you, and they will be able too see enough of your mistakes to help you get stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2016-04-11T18:42:26.250" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29671" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-12T00:24:44.590" Score="1" ViewCount="157" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hymn%20to%20Tourach&quot;&gt;Hymn to Tourach&lt;/a&gt; a black card that makes the opponent discard 2 cards at random, and the only 2 cards my opponent has in his hand have protection from black would they be protected? Would it fall under Targeting since it doesn't actively target the creatures with white, it should go off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15901" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T00:49:21.440" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T01:40:34.883" Title="Magic the Gathering Protection question" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-12T02:13:14.280" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29672" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29671" CreationDate="2016-04-12T00:41:22.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protection only functions on the battlefield; most rules text only functions on the battlefield. The exceptions are characteristic defining text, i.e. 'this card is black' and text which references another zone, i.e. '{2}, discard 2 cards: return CARDNAME to battlefield from the graveyard.'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example your opponent would discard both of their cards, despite their having protection from black, as protection only applies to permanents on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T00:41:22.693" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29671" CreationDate="2016-04-12T01:40:34.883" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hymn targets the player not the cards, so they are discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(It's also worth noting that protection never does anything while a card is in your hand - see esoterik's answer for details.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T01:40:34.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29646" CreationDate="2016-04-12T08:46:48.637" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;in fact, this is a translation error in the English rules of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;at the end of your turn&quot; part should be removed from this sentence. When you fall down to 0 Life points, you're dead immediately unless you drink from the Grail...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a forum thread where Bruno Cathala brings light on the issue:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=4531&quot;&gt;https://www.daysofwonder.com/en/msg/?th=4531&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say, this game is unforgiving and whenever in doubt, you're pretty safe to choose the worst option ;-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T08:46:48.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29678" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:32:23.723" Score="6" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability is cast targeting a specific creature, would casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Cloudshift&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; on the creature counter the spell or ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T18:48:35.070" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T19:56:30.070" Title="If the only target of a spell is cloudshifted, is the spell countered?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29678" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29677" CreationDate="2016-04-12T18:35:03.897" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes.&lt;/strong&gt; (Assuming that the spell is targeting only the 1 creature in question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an object changes zones, as it does when you cast Cloudshift on it, it becomes an entirely new object. The object that the original spell was targeting no longer exists, and so the spell is countered for having an invalid target upon resolution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are eight exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(None of the eight exceptions apply here.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the rules for what happens when a spell resolves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2b If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. A target that’s no longer in the zone it was in when it was targeted is illegal. Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. If the source of an ability has left the zone it was in, its last known information is used during this process. The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-04-12T19:56:30.070" LastActivityDate="2016-04-12T19:56:30.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29679" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T01:17:14.493" Score="4" ViewCount="411" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a couple of games where the game has been stifled because the supply card is never drawn. (What happens is that the 'winter is coming' card is drawn, and the deck reshuffled, and supply card isn't shuffled to the top). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last game we played, a supply card was never drawn until round 7, and we had a scenario where mustering cards would come out, and no body was able to increase their armies due to already being at supply limits. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This problem can also apply to other game dynamics, like bidding on the influence tracks, and to a lesser extent, mustering (because people can always use a special consolidate to muster). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a well known issue, and is there a house rule to mitigate it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking you could create a house rule that says 'if supply hasn't been adjusted by round 4, and round 8, there will be a bonus supply adjustment then'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another suggestion would be that when the 'winter is coming' card is drawn, you only shuffle the already discarded cards and put them at the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T11:30:21.403" Title="Game stagnates if supply card not drawn" Tags="|house-rules|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29680" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T01:23:09.227" Score="2" ViewCount="1533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jenga, in my impression, is most commonly interpreted as a competitive game, where the person who topples the tower is the loser. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, one can make the argument that it can be seen as a cooperative game, and the common goal is to make the highest tower possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The distinction has a radical impact on the way the game is played. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the game is cooperative, players are incentivised to take and place bricks in a manner that makes it as easy as possible for the other players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the game is competitive, players are incentivised to make the tower as gnarly and difficult for the other players (eg by twisting the top half of the tower when removing the a brick). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any Jenga competitions that shed light on how the game is played in this respect? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T02:32:53.227" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:32:53.227" Title="Is Jenga a cooperative or competitive game?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29681" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29680" CreationDate="2016-04-13T01:38:40.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jenga, as designed, is most certainly a competitive game. The rules released with the game have stayed consistent over the years and have never described how to play in a cooperative manner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most versions of the rules (such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Jenga.PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;2000 version&lt;/a&gt;) have a &quot;Solo Play&quot; variant that might also be able to be played cooperatively with multiple players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play alone for practice! Can you top your record height before the&#xA;  tower falls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Carefully remove one block from any level. Use a steady hand to stack it on top.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Continue to remove and stack blocks to build the tower taller…and shakier.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;How tall is too tall? Find out when the tower falls!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/36588/user-review&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;One Jenga review&lt;/a&gt; described playing a variation of this during a team building event where teams of 3 played cooperatively for a high score:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I first encountered Jenga in a corporate team building activity. The group was split into teams of three. Each team was given a Jenga set. The objective of the game was for each team, following the standard Jenga rules, to try to build the tower as high as they could. The team that built the tallest tower, without the tower collapsing, won the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T01:44:12.703" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T01:44:12.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29682" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29683" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:19:44.327" Score="6" ViewCount="68216" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the standard rules of Jenga, what is officially recognized as the tallest Jenga tower ever created?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2020-10-26T15:44:46.313" Title="What is the tallest Jenga tower ever created?" Tags="|jenga|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29683" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29682" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:19:44.327" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;According the the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/32477/hasbro-vintage-edition-2008&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;2008 Vintage Game Collection version&lt;/a&gt; of Jenga, the tallest recorded Jenga tower was made by Robert Grebler in 1985 with a tower 40 2⁄3 levels*, using an original Jenga set produced by Leslie Scott, the designer of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board Game Geek's gallery for Jenga includes a picture that nearly matches this at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/580092/jenga&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;40 levels tall&lt;/a&gt;. The user &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/user/Romir&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Romir&lt;/a&gt; posted a picture of a tower &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/946972/jenga&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;43 levels tall&lt;/a&gt;, but it looks like they didn't follow the rule to complete a 3 block story before starting another one.**&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kRNdr.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kRNdr.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;43 Level Jenga tower&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For fun, there is a YouTube video of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/zMwRuEFPWgg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tallest Game of Jenga Ever Assembled&lt;/a&gt; at 66 inches (5.5 feet, 1.68 meters), using multiple sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* Presumably, the &quot;2/3 levels&quot; means that the Robert Grebler placed 2 out of a possible 3 blocks on the top level before the tower collapsed. In Jenga, you must place three blocks on a level before starting a new level.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;** As described above, a level must have three blocks on it before starting another level. Therefore, it's not possible for both the top level and the one below it to only have one block, as shown in the picture.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T02:29:33.110" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:29:33.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29684" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:48:16.113" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quizl&lt;/em&gt; is a word game described as &quot;verbal Battleships&quot; in which players use a grid to deduce an opponent's word. It was created by David Parlett.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.davidparlett.co.uk/wgames/quizl.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official site&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T09:17:30.710" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T09:17:30.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29685" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:48:16.113" Score="0" Body="A word game described as &quot;verbal Battleships&quot; in which players use a grid to deduce an opponent's word" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T09:16:55.897" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T09:16:55.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29686" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4600" CreationDate="2016-04-13T02:50:13.120" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;An update to the website in October 2014 added rules for a multiplayer version of Quizl:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;Quizl for three or more&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Quizl works perfectly well for three or more, apart from the hassle of having to draw a check-grid for each opponent, so it's best to have them pre-printed. Each player in turn calls out a grid reference, as before, but you have to get used to the fact that when you call one, you do not reveal the letter you have placed in that cell of your own grid. If somebody wants to know what you have in it, they will have to make the same call, even though they will learn nothing new about the others in that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T02:50:13.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29687" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29688" CreationDate="2016-04-13T03:01:47.200" Score="3" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing MTG Duels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398435&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield and activated its second ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may cast target instant or sorcery card from your graveyard this&#xA;  turn. If that card would be put into your graveyard this turn, exile&#xA;  it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The target was &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401803&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Adverse Conditions&lt;/a&gt; in the graveyard. However, there was no effect and it wasn't exiled either.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was there no effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T17:36:34.120" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T17:36:34.120" Title="Jace, Telepath Unbound and Casting a Spell from the Graveyard" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|magic-duels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29687" CreationDate="2016-04-13T03:33:32.633" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know how MTG Duels exactly works but my guess is this, the card says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;may&lt;/strong&gt; cast target instant or sorcery card from your graveyard this turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which means that you are able to target a card in your graveyard but decide to not cast it. After this ability resolves you still have to manually cast it from your graveyard. You have the entire turn for that. It doesn't automatically get cast when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5909" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T03:33:32.633" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29689" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29697" CreationDate="2016-04-13T06:45:35.523" Score="5" ViewCount="2993" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say that I have a boat from island A, after a few turns I move boat to island B, now can I start a settlement on island B? Or do I have to make a full shipping line from Island A to Island B or can I just move one ship to island B and start a settlement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read the Seafarers rules booklet, but I have not been able to find any information on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15615" LastEditorUserId="17851" LastEditDate="2018-04-19T19:30:31.847" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T05:44:37.487" Title="Are you able to build a settlement from a separate ship?" Tags="|catan|catan-seafarers|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29690" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29645" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:06:48.827" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;em&gt;component&lt;/em&gt; can only be used once per turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Although an investigator cannot perform a component action from a&#xA;  single component more than once each round, he can perform component&#xA;  actions of different components&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not a specific 'investigator' but 'any' investigator that cannot use the component more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the &quot;use&quot; of a card kind of &quot;sticks&quot; to the card and cannot be used by another investigator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15913" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T07:06:48.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29668" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:07:29.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gokibitz.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;GoKibitz&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is a new website that offers a nice frontend for discussing games. I did not use it myself, but it looks promising.&#xA;I have no experience how strong the players are which are commenting regularly, however I saw at least many 1d or 2d comments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are willing to spend money on getting regular full reviews on your games I can highly recommend &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yunguseng.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;In-seong's Yunguseng Dojang&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. It is available for American and European timezone. You are getting lessons and reviews of league matches from high amateur dan players. I participated in the school myself for 1 year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I am new to this site I am not sure if such an advertisement is considered good practice here. Please comment if it isn't. I am not completely sure if the question already is a good fit for the site, because there can be very many answers providing different resources. Selecting one of them as the one right answer is probably not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T07:07:29.367" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29645" CreationDate="2016-04-13T07:29:26.053" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As for Spells that require an action:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No, you can't use these again after trading.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Like all actions, each component action can only be performed&#xA;  once per round. Multiple investigators &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; perform the same&#xA;  action on a component during a single round, except for local&#xA;  actions. For example, if an investigator uses a component action&#xA;  on an Asset and then trades it to another investigator, the new&#xA;  owner cannot use the component action that round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Component Action&quot; (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Spells that can be triggered &quot;Once per round&quot;:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;No, they can't be used again after trading.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The &quot;once per round&quot; limitation is tied to the possession not to an investigator possessing it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When then possession is traded, the limitation moves with it and doesn't reset.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T08:16:18.007" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T08:16:18.007" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29689" CreationDate="2016-04-13T09:58:40.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The manual doesn't clearly state if a shipping route needs to be connected to a city, so&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If your shipping route reaches a coastline, you can then build a new settlement on that coast, even if it's a new island.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is everything I can find on that topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.de/files/downloads/seafarers_rv_rules_111105.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan: Seafarers Manual&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-04-24T05:44:37.487" LastActivityDate="2018-04-24T05:44:37.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29694" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T10:39:30.433" Score="4" ViewCount="477" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Telepath%20Unbound&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability, which is casting a spell from the graveyard. It says the spell will be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it didn't. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Adverse%20Conditions&quot;&gt;Adverse Conditions&lt;/a&gt; was in the graveyard when I activated the Jace's second ability. And Adverse Conditions was cast, but didn't get exiled and instead went into the graveyard again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8150" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T17:36:47.457" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T17:36:47.457" Title="Spells are not exiled by Jace, Telepath Unbound's second ability in MTG Duels" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|magic-duels|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29696" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29694" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:19:19.413" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Telepath%20Unbound&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability states that &amp;quot;If the card (the spell cast from the graveyard) would be put into the graveyard this turn, exile it instead.&amp;quot; This means whatever spell you pull from the graveyard, if it were to return to the graveyard by &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; means (casting, countered, etc,.) then the card gets exiled instead of going to the graveyard. In short, when you use Jace's second ability, any card you cast from the graveyard will most likely be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to prevent this with other spells or abilities. For example, if you cast a spell with Buyback (e.g., &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Walk%20the%20Aeons&quot;&gt;Walk the Aeons&lt;/a&gt;), it never goes to the graveyard, and Jace's ability will not exile it. Likewise, if you cast a spell from your graveyard and then &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Remand&quot;&gt;Remand&lt;/a&gt; your own spell, it returns to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15598" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T14:18:38.437" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T14:18:38.437" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29697" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29689" CreationDate="2016-04-13T11:47:11.313" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Boats are like roads with a few exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they must border at least on one side to water.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they require wood and sheep to build.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can pivot the last ship in a row of ships (but it needs to stay connected).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they are affected by pirates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only change from road to ship (or ship to road) through a settlement (or city). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to build a settlement on an Island where you have no settlement yet, you need to build a row of ships starting from a settlement at the first island until you get to the second island. You can now continue building ships along the coast, or you can build a settlement. And if you are the first to build on an island, some scenario's reward you with an extra victorypoint.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="13589" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T13:25:45.463" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T13:25:45.463" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29668" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:02:40.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Join a Go club with strong players. Your club mates will give you comments and hints. Visit Go conventions and go to Go tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If joining a Go club is not practical for you, consider to take some payed Go lessons by a professional player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T13:02:40.043" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29699" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29700" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:14:57.647" Score="4" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is the situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Jace%2C%20Telepath%20Unbound&quot;&gt;Jace, Telepath Unbound&lt;/a&gt;'s -3 ability, targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Walk%20the%20Aeons&quot;&gt;Walk the Aeons&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;−3: You may cast target instant or sorcery card from your graveyard this turn. If that card would be put into your graveyard this turn, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast Walk the Aeons with Buyback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Walk the Aeons resolves and returns to my hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast Walk the Aeons again, without buyback.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does Walk the Aeons go when it resolves for the second time that turn? Can Jace's ability track Walk the Aeons across multiple zones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T13:27:48.700" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T21:06:21.520" Title="Can an ability track a card across multiple zones?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29700" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29699" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:14:57.647" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Objects that move from one zone to another become a completely new object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are eight exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 400.7h is an exception to 400.7. This is the rule that allows Jace's -3 ability to keep track of cards that you cast from the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7h If an effect causes an object to move to a public zone, other parts of that effect can find that object. If the cost of a spell or ability causes an object to move to a public zone, that spell or ability’s effects can find that object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as the card moves to any other zone, rule 400.7h no longer applies, and Jace's ability loses track of it. If you cast Walk the Aeons after that, it will go to the graveyard like normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2602/gendoikari&quot;&gt;another user&lt;/a&gt; pointed out, this is also the most logical outcome. The game has no way to tell in all situations if the second Walk the Aeons is the same physical card as the first one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T21:06:21.520" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29689" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:28:54.497" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You need to create a full shipping line. If you want to move a ship, you have to place it so that it is attached to another ship, or to a city or settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can never reach another island with just one ship.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T13:28:54.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29694" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:48:46.133" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Should it have been exiled? Yup.  You cast it from your graveyard, it went on the stack, resolved then returned to your graveyard.  Going to your graveyard should have been replaced with exiling the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why didn't it?  No idea.  It's probably a bug.  With a game and rules as complex as Magic's, it wouldn't surprise me that something doesn't work like it is supposed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T13:48:46.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29694" CreationDate="2016-04-13T13:58:24.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was an update to Magic Duels just under a week ago. There seems to have a lot of bugs that got introduced. This may be the case but I can't access the bug list at the moment because I'm at work (Although it may be unreported, may just be a bug with just this card combination). There is no date set where a patch is to be released at the time of writing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4867" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T13:58:24.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29704" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T15:14:24.827" Score="7" ViewCount="10613" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are printing techniques trade secrets?  I'm wondering what type of printer, foil, cardboard, etc., is required to print holographic cards of the sort you might see in Magic or Yu-Gi-Oh.  I can find nothing about this online, and I'm wondering how the companies themselves source the industrial printing equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15918" LastActivityDate="2021-03-19T20:20:43.810" Title="How are holographic trading cards printed in an industrial setting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|yu-gi-oh|pokemon|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29705" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29704" CreationDate="2016-04-13T15:49:54.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;This is only a partial answer.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The core technology originated out of 3M. I'm not sure their &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20140323023812/http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Security/Identity_Management/Products_Services/Civil_ID_Systems/Design_Credentials/Laminates_Security_Features/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Laminates &amp;amp; Security Features&lt;/a&gt; page describes the &amp;quot;actual&amp;quot; technology used in the cards, but this is an application of that technology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3M developed the first holographic driver's licenses etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2021-03-10T22:33:46.283" LastActivityDate="2021-03-10T22:33:46.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T15:56:07.083" Score="1" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;In either &quot;party&quot; or &quot;rubber&quot; bridge scoring, what is the value of a part score when you either stop playing or come to the end of a &quot;party&quot; round?  Some people award 50 points for a part score, some 100 points.  Which is correct?  Is there a difference if you are vulnerable or not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15920" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T16:41:18.397" Title="Part game (leg) scoring in bridge" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29706" CreationDate="2016-04-13T16:41:18.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Chicago, or four-deal scoring, a team gets a 100 point premium for making a part score only in the fourth and final deal of the game.  If a team is carrying a part score forward from a previous deal, and do not convert it into a game score by the end of the fourth deal, they do not receive a premium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T16:41:18.397" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29664" CreationDate="2016-04-13T18:20:25.123" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is going to feel a lot like going to a Pre-release blindly. Excpet that you want to end up with a 60 card deck (usually 40% lands, so 36 cards, 24 lands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sort the cards by Color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Within each Color, Sort by mana cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find your &quot;Bombs&quot; for each color, and separate them from the rest. These will be cards that win the game quickly upon being played (Think Dragons, Demons, Angels, etc.). These are the cards that will actually win games for you (in low level play). The rest of your deck serves to support these bombs.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Find your &quot;Removal&quot; for each color, and separate them as well. These will be, depending on the color, Counterspells, Kill Spells, burn spells, enchantments, or anything else that effectively negates your opponents creatures and/or other win conditions. These will serve to kill your opponents &quot;Bombs&quot;, keep you alive long enough for yours to get the job done, and clear the way for your threats.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Build a &quot;Curve&quot; from the remaining creatures. That is, try to pick out the most efficient/powerful 3-4 creatures at each mana cost (ie, your best one mana creatures, then the best 2 mana creatures, etc), starting at one, and going up to within one or two of the mana cost of the &quot;Bombs&quot; you picked out in step 1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;From the remaining cards, pick a few from each color that interest you personally. Something that has a cool sounding effect, or even just art you like.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you should notice that the piles for some of your colors are bigger than others. Start with the biggest pile(s). Take the 4-5 best &quot;bombs&quot; from that pile, and then start filling in 4-5 cards per mana cost up to the cost of your bombs (they should be the most expensive cards in your deck). Try to work at least 4-5 of your removal cards in among the creatures. Finally, add 2-3 of the interesting cards from step 6.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, you should have selected around 36 cards for your deck. Add 24 lands, shuffle, and play a few games to see how it works out. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastActivityDate="2016-04-13T18:20:25.123" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7972" CreationDate="2016-04-13T18:20:37.517" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's Mexicali and a company made a pretty cool version of it for retail with a pirate theme. It's called &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/172837/dead-mans-chest/images&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Dead Man's Chest&quot;&lt;/a&gt; and comes in a small wooden crate with two D6 with a skull and crossbones for the &quot;1&quot; side as well as a bunch of small gems and reference cards that list the hierarchy of the possible combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/82zDW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Dead Man&amp;#39;s Chest&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player gets five gems and loses one each time they get busted lying. It's a fun way to play if you aren't drinking and the wood crate is a nice touch as you shake it and then just slide the top back to peak at the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15921" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2020-03-24T05:53:09.650" LastActivityDate="2020-03-24T05:53:09.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29710" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:21:06.380" Score="11" ViewCount="3878" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked around and was overwhelmed by the number of Munchkin base sets out there. I googled what the best Munchkin set is, but so far, all I found is that I should pick the theme I like best. But I'm not sure if there might be other factors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In reality I'm looking for the answer to the question: what Munchkin set is the best in terms of card functionality, bad stuff, and surprising and interesting turnouts? Or is the gameplay broadly similar between them and the theme is the only big difference?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12723" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-04-13T23:08:51.693" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T17:22:33.557" Title="Are there big differences in gameplay (not just theme) between Munchkin sets?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-04-13T20:51:45.990" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played the super hero, pirate, legendary, old west, and &quot;normal&quot; munchkin.  There is no significant difference between them wrt &quot;Card Functionality&quot;, &quot;Bad Stuff&quot; and &quot;surprising and interesting turnouts&quot;.  All 5 sets have similar card functionality, similar bad stuff, and lots of surprising, amusing, and interesting turnouts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Really it does just come down to, &quot;is there a genre you enjoy?&quot;  Then, that's the variant you should play because you'll get the jokes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ps. Tsuama534 mentions some very interesting rule changes in Munchkin Cthulhu and Munchkin Apocalypse in his answer.  There are no corresponding rule changes in the expansions I mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T13:51:24.403" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T13:51:24.403" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29712" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29483" CreationDate="2016-04-14T00:17:07.877" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like a 2-deck variation of the game, 'Golf'. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golf_(patience)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; page lists it as a starting with a 7 x 5 card layout. This &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.golfsolitaire.net/TwoDeckGolfSolitaire.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; has a 2-deck version, which starts with a 9 x 7 card layout.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More rules or game play example might help to narrow it down. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T00:17:07.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29713" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7569" CreationDate="2016-04-14T02:43:34.067" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Today with 20 pts, I opened 2NT with a singleton ace of hearts.&#xA;My partner bid 2 diamonds, I said &quot;transfer&quot; and choose to bid&#xA;3 NT. The computer printout, showed we could have made 4clubs,&#xA;5 spades, and 5 NT. Didn't play to 5, but did make 4.  I was&#xA;the only player in that contract and the high board. My partner&#xA;upon laying her hand down, only had 4 hearts, not five, and&#xA;only 6 points. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15925" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T02:43:34.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-04-14T07:26:48.303" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played regular Munchkin, Munchkin Cthulhu, and Munchkin Apocalypse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The two non-regular sets each had one big difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Munchkin Cthulhu has special Cultist Rules.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Among them is a rule that when every player is a Cultist then a game immediately ends.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This tends to end games with low player counts very fast. I think this is a major difference from the regular game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Munchkin Apocalypse also has a built-in timer in form of Seals.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my experience this doesn't affect the game time very much but it introduces some extra complexity to the simple game of Munchin.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In both regular Munchkin and Munchkin Cthulhu to win you need to maximize your character level.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In Munchkin Apocalypse you may also win by having the highest combat bonus when the Seventh Seal is opened. This alternative way of winning may bring more strategy or more chaos to the game, depending on the group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides that, differences between these three sets are very minor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T07:26:48.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29644" CreationDate="2016-04-14T07:58:01.163" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: No. There are no special rules for playing with more expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional info: However, there were some special rules for playing with specific expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On January 12 2016, FFG had posted an update which featured new Reference cards with a following description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Due to the introduction of new mechanics in its expansions, the balance of Eldritch Horror has shifted. To remedy this, revised &#xA;  Reference cards have been created for use when playing with any of the following expansions: Mountains of Madness, Strange &#xA;  Remnants, Under the Pyramids. Below are the revised Reference cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This update only lasted a week. On January 19 another update renamed this cards to &quot;variant&quot; not &quot;revised&quot; reference cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With the introduction of new mechanics in Eldritch Horror expansions, some player groups may wish for a more difficult or more&#xA;  relaxed experience with certain player counts. The variant Reference cards shown below can be used to increase or decrease the&#xA;  game’s difficulty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that the revised reference cards are what you are asking about.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Arkham Horror was becoming harder with each expansion added and needed a special rules to fix that.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Eldritch Horror was becoming a bit easier with each expansion added (other than &quot;Forsaken Lore&quot;) and these cards have returned the difficulty back where it was in the core game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That's my experience, at least.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may find these new reference cards at the end of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/e3/a5/e3a58886-072b-4ca2-9709-e723af370203/eh_errata__faq_2016-01-19.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;official FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T07:58:01.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29716" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29717" CreationDate="2016-04-14T09:32:56.747" Score="3" ViewCount="2035" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last game I played I faced the following combo:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Stuffy%20Doll&quot;&gt;Stuffy Doll&lt;/a&gt; played by an opponent, opponent chose me&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pariah&quot;&gt;Pariah&lt;/a&gt; attached to Stuffy Doll&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This resulted in an invincible opponent, as long as Pariah is attached to that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How exactly will rules be applied when e.g. a 8/8 creature with trampling attacks and is blocked by the Stuffy Doll (enchanted as stated above) that has 0/1 this turn? Do I (as the attacking player) get&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;some other value?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;… when my opponent blocks the 8/8 creature with trampling with his Stuffy Doll?&#xA;All mentioned values of damage have been discussed during play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7188" LastEditorUserId="7188" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T06:16:31.893" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T08:23:15.520" Title="How much damage do I take when I Trample a Stuffy Doll that has Pariah attached?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29716" CreationDate="2016-04-14T09:46:27.800" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You will take 8 damage from the Stuffy Doll's triggered ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the combat damage step, every creature deals combat damage equal to its power, no matter how much toughness the defending creatures have:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature assigns combat damage equal to its power. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. &lt;strong&gt;If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature.&lt;/strong&gt; If two or more creatures are blocking it, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a creature with Trample deals combat damage, you don't not have to assign all its damage to the blocking creatures; as long as all blocking creatures have been assigned lethal damage, you can assign the rest to the defending player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From sources without Deathtouch, lethal damage is equal to the creature's toughness:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.6. Damage marked on a creature remains until the cleanup step, even if that permanent stops being a creature. &lt;strong&gt;If the total damage marked on a creature is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage&lt;/strong&gt; and is destroyed as a state-based action (see rule 704). All damage marked on a permanent is removed when it regenerates (see rule 701.12, “Regenerate”) and during the cleanup step (see rule 514.2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From sources with Deathtouch, any damage &amp;gt;= 1 is lethal damage:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2b Any nonzero amount of combat damage assigned to a creature by a source with deathtouch is considered to be lethal damage, regardless of that creature’s toughness. See rules 510.1c–d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.2c A creature with toughness greater than 0 that’s been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch since the last time state-based actions were checked is destroyed as a state-based action. See rule 704.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have to assign 1 damage (lethal) to the stuffy doll; you then have to distribute the remaining 7 damage between the Doll and the defending player as you like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever damage is dealt to an object, prevention and replacement effects are applied first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.4. Damage is processed in a three-part sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.4a First, damage is dealt, &lt;strong&gt;as modified by replacement and prevention effects that interact with damage.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 614, “Replacement Effects,” and rule 615, “Prevention Effects.”) Abilities that trigger when damage is dealt trigger now and wait to be put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, no matter how much damage you assign to the defending player, Pariah will redirect all damage to the Stuffy Doll; this is a replacement effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.9. Some effects replace damage dealt to one creature, planeswalker, or player with the same damage dealt to another creature, planeswalker, or player; such effects are called redirection effects. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 8 damage are dealt to the Doll and its triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, any abilities that triggered on damage being assigned or dealt go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, the active player gets priority and the combat damage step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T08:23:15.520" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29720" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T18:24:29.357" Score="4" ViewCount="1340" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was similar to Mouse Trap but it had metal parts vs. plastic. It may have been more of a maze but there was a basket &amp;amp; perhaps stairs. It's been driving me crazy because I loved it &amp;amp; want to find for my kids. I played with it in the mid 80's  so it could be from that point back.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15929" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T22:21:53.530" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T15:21:07.987" Title="What was this Mouse Trap-like game with a basket, stairs, and metal parts?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29721" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-14T21:03:57.020" Score="-6" ViewCount="554" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many players and fan designers have been forever frustrated by the fact that in MtG, &amp;quot;Tribal&amp;quot; is a card type instead of a supertype. Having been digging at this for a while, I have to a conclusion: &lt;strong&gt;there is literally and absolutely no rule justification for this.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only argument that was ever offered is &amp;quot;subtypes must be associated with a card type, not a supertype&amp;quot;. &lt;a href=&quot;http://tabakrules.tumblr.com/post/142810541004/if-tribal-had-been-created-as-a-supertype-what&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;He re's a typical formulation from today.&lt;/a&gt; Tabak has never explained it any further despite many pressing attempts t getting a better answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this only begs the question, because &lt;strong&gt;this itself has no rule-based justification whatsoever&lt;/strong&gt; other than (if you squint really hard) the fact that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt; and a few, select cards would be functionally altered. However since a) they forgot about THAT when creating tribal in the first place and b) this would be a minute amount of disruption to older cards compared to what happened by eliminating damage on the stack or mana burn. (And you'd think they'd jump at the chance to rein in Tarmo a little without actually altering cards or the banned and restricted list.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, I ask of you: come up with a rule problem (and as I made it clear above, a card whose power subtly changes is not one!) or contradiction that arises out of making Tribal a supertype. Please. Please tell me Wizards have a reasoning instead of just stubbornly pretending they didn't make a patently idiotic design mistake and then tried to cover it with what amount to &amp;quot;because we say so&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of a rule issue would be if it could somehow cause a creature to have undefined power or toughness, or cause an instant/sorcery to be face-up on the battlefield, both situation which templating and rules carefully thread around to prevent their possibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes the question is ranty because Tabak has been frustratingly stubborn on this issue, but it's still a legitimate rules question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2593" LastEditorUserId="2593" LastEditDate="2016-04-14T22:03:46.630" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T22:03:46.630" Title="What is the justification of the card type Tribal in Magic the Gathering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="12" ClosedDate="2016-04-15T02:30:24.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29721" CreationDate="2016-04-14T22:01:13.900" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know if you'd consider these &amp;quot;rules issues&amp;quot; or not; they're certainly not as bad as an instant on the field, but the rules as currently worded don't allow for subtypes to be associated with supertypes. If you make Tribal a supertype and start messing around with an object's types,things don't work out the same way; see the following examples. &lt;em&gt;Maybe&lt;/em&gt; they could have done these rules differently, maybe not, but it's not just a matter of declaring Tribal to now be a supertype instead of a card type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.1a Some effects set an object’s card type. In such cases, the new card type(s) replaces any existing card types. Counters, effects, and damage marked on the object remain with it, even if they are meaningless to the new card type. Similarly, when an effect sets one or more of an object’s subtypes, the new subtype(s) replaces any existing subtypes from the appropriate set (creature types, land types, artifact types, enchantment types, planeswalker types, or spell types). If an object’s card type is removed, the subtypes correlated with that card type will remain if they are also the subtypes of a card type the object currently has; otherwise, they are also removed for the entire time the object’s card type is removed. Removing an object’s subtype doesn’t affect its card types at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.1b Some effects change an object’s card type, supertype, or subtype but specify that the object retains a prior card type, supertype, or subtype. In such cases, all the object’s prior card types, supertypes, and subtypes are retained. This rule applies to effects that use the phrase “in addition to its types” or that state that something is “still a [type, supertype, or subtype].” Some effects state that an object becomes an “artifact creature”; these effects also allow the object to retain all of its prior card types and subtypes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a Tribal Artifact and make it a (non-artifact) land with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Song%20of%20the%20Dryads&quot;&gt;Song of the Dryads&lt;/a&gt;. If Tribal were a supertype, would it keep its creature type(s)?&#xA;Since its new type doesn't support creature types, no. It's still Tribal but loses its creature types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.3d An object can’t gain a subtype that doesn’t correspond to one of that object’s types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take a Tribal Artifact and give it a second creature type. Since the new creature type doesn't correspond to one of its types, it doesn't gain it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;205.4b An object’s supertype is independent of its card type and subtype, even though some supertypes are closely identified with specific card types. Changing an object’s card types or subtypes won’t change its supertypes. Changing an object’s supertypes won’t change its card types or subtypes. When an object gains or loses a supertype, it retains any other supertypes it had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remove the Tribal supertype from a permanent somehow and it keeps its creature types since removing supertypes doesn't change subtypes, but it can't have creature types without the Tribal, so does it or doesn't it have creature types?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-14T22:01:13.900" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29723" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29799" CreationDate="2016-04-15T04:04:47.103" Score="5" ViewCount="296" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been a bit disappointed in the past the quality of game components, primarily the cards, in certain games. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;strong&gt;Citadels&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Timeline&lt;/strong&gt; have cheap cardboard cards that look like they'll scuff easily. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand &lt;strong&gt;Pandemic&lt;/strong&gt; has the best quality cards I've ever seen - they look fully plastic, you could spill beer on those things and just have to wipe them off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering what the decision making process is for the producers of these games are - are good quality plastic cards really so expensive as not make it worth while paying for them? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:58:05.040" Title="What's the price difference in producing different quality game cards?" Tags="|components|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29724" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29728" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:03:33.380" Score="11" ViewCount="2211" Body="&lt;p&gt;The optimal number for a draft pod is 8 people, but it can be often hard to get a even multiple of 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are an odd number of drafters how should the pods be split? Also if there is any justification as to why it's done that way that would be nice to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am aware of the Wizards Event Reporter, and that it can split players into pods automatically. I want to know how to split pods by hand, in case I ever need to run an event with pencil and paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T17:18:54.060" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T17:18:54.060" Title="What is the proper way to split uneven draft pods?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-04-15T06:42:52.157" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I haven't played all themes but its my understanding that they can all work together.  In fact, you can just shuffle the different sets together and play with all of the expanded characters/items/steeds/etc.  Of course if you have cards that go together they will be harder to pair up because you are playing with a larger deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result the core game mechanics are unchanged between them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to a SuperMod on this thread (SJgames is the producer of Munchkin):&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=66801&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forums.sjgames.com/showthread.php?t=66801&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every Munchkin game except the original comes with rules or hints on how to blend that particular game with the others. All those games have their rules available online on their individual web pages, too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In conclusion, what you were told is correct.  Go with whatever theme you fancy more.  And if you decide you get bored of that one, just go buy another and spice it up a bit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15932" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T06:42:52.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29724" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:12:30.190" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Realistically, the simplest way to resolve having X players where X is odd, would be to treat it as if you were running an X+1 man pod and then someone dropped suddenly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you draw up the rankings with &quot;Mr Missing&quot; as the 8th players, and then the player that gets matched up with him gets a &quot;bye&quot;, where you automatically win the round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this still means that one player is having to sit out every round (this is unavoidable unless you're doing a Conspiracy-style multiplayer draft), but because they count as winning, they'll automatically be facing someone next match, whereas one of the losers of the match will now get the bye for the next round, will win, and will then get another match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to constantly rotate through who's sitting out the next game, and gives a real benefit to winning, because you get to play every round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;: Did some research, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/products/magic-online/swiss-pairings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the official rules for Swiss Pairings can be found here&lt;/a&gt;; basically confirming the above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T10:23:26.797" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T10:23:26.797" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29727" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29729" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:27:51.817" Score="2" ViewCount="619" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the action that makes a card flip back-face up goes on the stack, I use a card ability like the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eldrazi%20Displacer&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt; to blink &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Archangel%20Avacyn&quot;&gt;Archangel Avacyn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the &amp;quot;blink&amp;quot; resolves, the card I have on the battlefield now is no longer the source of the ability I have on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the ruling it says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.7a. The source of an activated ability can perform an action even if it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the Avacyn source of the triggered ability no longer exists, but it should be flipped bottom-face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What will happen? Will a new object be created? Will the activated ability resolve without effect?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15933" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T12:43:05.160" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T12:43:05.160" Title="Magic The Gathering, Blinking the source of a transformation" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29724" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:53:57.480" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my LGS it's solved this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 players =&gt; 1 x 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7 players =&gt; 1 x 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 players =&gt; 1 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9 players =&gt; 1 x 9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 players =&gt; 1 x 10&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;11 players =&gt; 1 x 11&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 players =&gt; 2 x 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13 players =&gt; 1 x 6 + 1 x 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 players =&gt; 1 x 6 + 1 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;15 players =&gt; 1 x 7 + 1 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;16 players =&gt; 2 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;17 players =&gt; 1 x 8 + 1 x 9&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;18 players =&gt; 3 x 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;19 players =&gt; 2 x 6 + 1 x 7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;20 players =&gt; 2 x 6 + 1 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;21 players =&gt; 1 x 6 + 1 x 7 + 1 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;22 players =&gt; 1 x 6 + 2 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;23 players =&gt; 1 x 7 + 2 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;24 players =&gt; 3 x 8&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The idea behind is to not have a draftpod with less than 6 people, which yields in just too less cards in the entire cardpool. 9 players is still quite doable, 10 and especially 11 player pods are really bad (you basically won't see any card coming back to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To summarize:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Don't go below 6&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Avoid going above 9&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Try to fill as many 8 pods as possible&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastEditorUserId="13769" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T10:59:51.973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T10:59:51.973" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29727" CreationDate="2016-04-15T10:55:21.297" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you blink Archangel Avacyn while its transform trigger is on the stack, the new Archangel object will not transform.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that the transform trigger will still resolve, even though its source object no longer exists. However, the Archangel that put the transform trigger on the stack was also the object to be flipped. When you blinked the original Archangel, the transform trigger lost track of that object. The transform ability will resolve, but it will not do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T10:55:21.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29731" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31430" CreationDate="2016-04-15T14:12:24.037" Score="2" ViewCount="486" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played the recent edition of Space Hulk with my brother, who insisted on playing the entire campaign as the Space Marines (bad idea - they tend to lose!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He gave up the campaign about half way through, becoming frustrated with his 10 game losing streak.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought about how to make it easier. He consistently became distracted by his phone during his (timed) turn, leading to tactical blunders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does removing the timer element make the game much easier, or is it still likely that the space marines will lose?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-04-15T14:18:30.703" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T13:40:52.187" Title="Does removing the timer make Space Hulk significantly easier?" Tags="|house-rules|play-time|space-hulk|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29733" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:32:36.407" Score="3" ViewCount="263" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sejiri%20Steppe&quot;&gt;Sejiri Steppe&lt;/a&gt;. I always did it as follows:&#xA;Opponent plays Sejiri Steppe, chooses a creature and a color, then I get to respond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But today while playing, after my opponent played Sejiri Steppe, he said he was only supposed to say the color if the ability resolved.&#xA;Do I get to know what color the protection from will be before answering the ability, or I have to decide if I answer it before he decides the color?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15939" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T02:40:43.283" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T02:40:43.283" Title="When does the &quot;choose a color&quot; part of a spell happen?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29733" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:47:06.843" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability reads as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Sejiri Steppe enters the battlefield, target creature you control gains protection from the color of your choice until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The color is chosen when the ability resolves. At that point, there's no chance for anyone to respond. Here's what happens in more detail:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability triggers. Its controller chooses a target for the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players have a chance to cast spells or activate abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability resolves. A color is chosen, and the target gets protection from the chosen color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a ruling on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Feat%20of%20Resistance&quot;&gt;Feat of Resistance&lt;/a&gt;, a card that has similar wording:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9/20/2014 You choose the color as Feat of Resistance resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:47:06.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29733" CreationDate="2016-04-15T21:47:33.567" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent chooses which color as the ability resolves. In general, if you have choices to make for a spell or ability, those are made as it resolves. The main choices you have to make when the ability first goes on the stack are modes (things that say &quot;choose one:&quot; or the like with a list after) and targets. Things like &quot;a color of your choice&quot; let you delay your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-04-15T21:47:33.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29737" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29740" CreationDate="2016-04-16T06:36:36.943" Score="2" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Grotesque Statue artifact reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per round, you may spend 1 Clue to prevent all Sanity loss from a single effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I can use it on effects that target other players, even effects that target all players, such as the mythos effect that causes every investigator to lose sanity based on how many spells they retain (after losing half).  Could I use a single clue to prevent all Sanity loss from this effect on every single investigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T07:51:12.757" Title="Can I use the Grotesque Statue artifact on any effect and prevent loss on all affected targets?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29739" CreationDate="2016-04-16T07:00:06.477" Score="0" ViewCount="906" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do monsters move along local paths to traverse the side boards in expansion games such as when effects instruct players to move a monster toward investigators?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For instance, a local path connects space 17 and Cairo, and an investigator would effectively be able to teleport from one to the other at no action cost.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Would a monster on space 17 be allowed to, for the cost of 1 move, travel to Cairo (or would it cost no moves)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The fire vampire moves two spaces toward the nearest investigator, so would an appropriate step count be to move him from Shanghai to space 17, then to Cairo for a total of 2 spaces?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T00:04:15.603" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T21:26:05.813" Title="How do monsters move on local paths to side boards?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-mountains-madness|eldritch-horror-under-the-pyramids|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29739" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29738" CreationDate="2016-04-16T07:46:48.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each location is a space, so regardless of what type of path exists, a monster moving from Shanghai to Space 17 and then to Cairo has moved 2 spaces. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastEditorUserId="13797" LastEditDate="2017-11-24T21:26:05.813" LastActivityDate="2017-11-24T21:26:05.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29740" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29737" CreationDate="2016-04-16T07:51:12.757" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ/Errata (&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/support/EH%20Errata%20&amp;amp;%20FAQ%202015-01-23.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/support/EH%20Errata%20&amp;amp;%20FAQ%202015-01-23.pdf&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q Can the Grotesque Statue Artifact prevent other investigators  from&#xA;  losing Sanity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A No. The Grotesque Statue Artifact’s second effect allows the &#xA;  investigator to spend one Clue to prevent himself from losing  Sanity&#xA;  from a single effect. It does not allow him to prevent any  other&#xA;  investigator from losing Sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T07:51:12.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29741" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29745" CreationDate="2016-04-16T11:04:40.237" Score="-1" ViewCount="1177" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm making a little research in a mix between 4x game and cards games. Do you think is possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm an hobbyist game developer and I like both 4x (Civilization, Master of Orion, Crusader Kings 2) video games, but I found frustrating how much micro-management you should put into these games. I mean, it's fun to play sometimes, but other times I'd like to have a more &quot;macro&quot; control over game, only set objectives and stop.&#xA;Then my idea is to create mix between a 4x game and a card games, where every card player can play is an action (send enterprise to explore a sector, create a new colony, spy on one enemy, etc..).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to share with someone else these ideas!&#xA;I've also build a little googe module to get some &quot;data&quot; from other people, here: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://goo.gl/forms/kM6mtAjgOc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://goo.gl/forms/kM6mtAjgOc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will share results with every participants!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for your time!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15943" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T20:51:45.283" Title="It's a 4x and card game mix possible?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-04-17T06:59:26.453" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29742" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29754" CreationDate="2016-04-16T17:41:37.987" Score="0" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was taught to &quot;bid to make.&quot; That is, it would take 26 points to bid a game that was at least a 2 to 1 favorite to make. (I'd bid game with 24-25 only with &quot;something extra&quot; such as a solid five card suit that would take a disproportionate number of tricks.) Under these cirumstances, I would shun finesses (a 50-50 proposition) except as a last resort, because they &quot;average down&quot; my theoretical  &quot;67%&quot; chances. Instead, I would look for an endplay, squeeze, or maybe a combination play (e.g. a drop play for 3-3 distribution in a key suit followed by a finesse.))&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The IMP scoring table allows bidders to come out ahead if they make as many as 40% of the game contracts they bid. Hence, many players will now bid a speculative game with 22-24 points (instead of 26). More to the point, this result is occurring more frequently because of pre-emptive and &quot;competitive&quot; bidding, where the slightly stronger partnership is pushed into a game contract, instead of being allowed to stop at the three level. In this situation, a 50-50 shot at a successful finesse will &quot;average up&quot; their chances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do good players play finesses more frequently to &quot;shorten&quot; the odds when they are in long odds contracts with less than 25-26 points? In finance terms, do good players regard finesses as &quot;dilutive&quot; when they have 26+ points and &quot;accretive&quot; when they have 22?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T19:56:36.437" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T16:45:40.693" Title="Have recent changes in bidding priorities changed the value of finesses?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29743" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-16T17:49:54.550" Score="1" ViewCount="529" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like to hear peoples opinion on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text on the cards mentioned below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First Mate: &quot;Special: After this base i scored, you may move this minion to another base instead of the discard pile&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Heirloom: Play on a minion. Ongoing: This card gives this minion +1 power for each Heirloom on it. This card cannot be destroyed.(the &quot;this cards cannot be destroyed&quot; is irrelivant to my question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First mate with an ongoing action (fx. heirloom) played on it(first mate).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The base scores&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;the first mate gets to move to another base after the base i scored&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;question: does the action played on him follow him or does it get discarded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd think that it would follow him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15944" LastEditorUserId="15944" LastEditDate="2016-04-16T18:29:02.090" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T04:08:25.270" Title="Smash up: First mate with ongoing actions attached to it. Do the actions follow him?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29745" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29741" CreationDate="2016-04-16T20:51:45.283" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/144239/impulse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Impulse&lt;/a&gt; is such a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Impulse is a quick-playing 4X game set in space with the game board being composed of cards that have actions on them. Players also have cards in hand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T20:51:45.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29746" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26869" CreationDate="2016-04-16T22:07:06.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4156/endangered-species&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Endangered Species&lt;/a&gt; matches most of your criteria. It was released before the 90s, has a square board, and involves collecting animals from different environments (although each group represents a different continent, rather than a biome). However, there is no mountain in the middle, but that was the part you sounded least certain about.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ac5b.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Ac5b.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Endangered Species board game&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-04-16T22:07:06.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29743" CreationDate="2016-04-17T04:08:25.270" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;They follow him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;After scoring, players can use Special abilities that&#xA;  happen “after” a base scores. Then all cards still on that base go to their owners’ discard piles.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The First Mate is no longer on the base, so he doesn't get discarded, much less actions attached to him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T04:08:25.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29749" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13688" CreationDate="2016-04-17T08:50:07.573" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 6 of the reference guide says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the specified card cannot is not found while searching, he does not gain a card. For instance, if other investigators or defeated investigators possess all copies of the card or all copies of the card have been returned to the game box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;so the ruling is that you simply do not gain the card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T08:50:07.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14980" CreationDate="2016-04-17T08:54:19.257" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Q &amp;amp; A for the Grotesque Statue artifact in the FAQ strongly implies that items by default can only be used on the investigator that owns the item, as the wording similarly doesn't call out that it can be used on other investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q  Can the Grotesque Statue Artifact prevent other investigators from losing Sanity?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. No. The Grotesque Statue Artifact’s second effect allows the investigator to spend one Clue to prevent himself from losing Sanity from a single e ect. It does not allow him to prevent any other investigator from losing Sanity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T08:54:19.257" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29751" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29753" CreationDate="2016-04-17T09:26:38.000" Score="8" ViewCount="59398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want to clone &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Geist%20of%20Saint%20Traft&quot;&gt;Geist of Saint Traft&lt;/a&gt; without falling prey to the legend rule and without using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Gallery&quot;&gt;Mirror Gallery&lt;/a&gt;. Are there any cards that allow you to copy a card's text without copying its name? I was unable to find any but might have failed to search the right wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13772" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T12:08:40.023" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T19:38:37.820" Title="How to clone a Legendary permanent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-legendary-cards|" AnswerCount="9" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29479" CreationDate="2016-04-17T09:44:11.690" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although the cards using coin tokens are already listed in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/29480/15935&quot;&gt;the answer by RM Bee (including the comments)&lt;/a&gt;, Coin tokens appear in currently four expansions (Seaside, Prosperity, Cornucopia &amp;amp; Guilds, Renaissance, and Allies) and are used slightly differently in each set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please note that all the named cards have additional abilities besides generating or converting Coin tokens, but as the question is about Coin tokens this answer also focuses on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Seaside 1st Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first expansion set to feature Coin tokens is Seaside. Using its card &lt;strong&gt;Pirate Ship&lt;/strong&gt;, Coin tokens can be collected by individual players on their own &lt;em&gt;Pirate Ship mats&lt;/em&gt;. Alternatively the collected tokens can be converted to +$ using the same action card, but the Coin tokens are not used up, so they remain on the Pirate Ship mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In later turns, this basically makes Pirate Ship kind of a Treasure which is possibly huge, but needs to be played as an action to generate money. Pirate Ship was removed from Seaside's 2nd Edition printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Prosperity 1st Edition&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prosperity also features Coin tokens with its &lt;strong&gt;Trade Route&lt;/strong&gt; card, but this time the Coin tokens are placed on top of the victory card piles in the supply (one each) during setup. Once a card is gained from such a pile, the token is moved onto the &lt;em&gt;Trade Route mat&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Amongst other effects, playing Trade Route then generates money according to the number of tokens on the mat. Again, the Coin tokens remain on the mat when used. In contrast to Pirate Ship, however, the Coin tokens on the Trade Route mat do not belong to a single player, but can be used by anyone. Trade Route was removed from Prosperity's 2nd Edition printing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cornucopia &amp;amp; Guilds&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using &lt;strong&gt;Huge Turnip&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Candlestick Maker&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Plaza&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Baker&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Butcher&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Footpad&lt;/strong&gt;, or &lt;strong&gt;Merchant Guild&lt;/strong&gt; from the Cornucopia &amp;amp; Guilds expansion, players can get Coin tokens individually. The Second printing of Guilds uses the name &amp;quot;Coffers&amp;quot; for these tokens; when a card says &amp;quot;+1 Coffers&amp;quot;, you add a coin token to your Coffers mat. The details or conditions on how to get them are different for each card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Coin tokens from these cards can be used like other Treasures during the Buy Phase to pay the costs of the cards. Each coin generates $1 and is returned to the coin supply after using it. So basically, you can use these action cards to save some money and use it in later turns, which you cannot do with regular Treasures, obviously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Renaissance&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Renaissance brings back the same coin tokens from Guilds. It includes a &amp;quot;Villagers/Coffers&amp;quot; mat, which can replace the Coffers mat from Guilds. Certain cards give you either Villagers or Coffers, which you track by placing coin tokens on the correct half of the mat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coffers work exactly the same as they did in Guilds. Villagers can be spent at any time during your action phase to add +1 Action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that provide Coffers include &lt;strong&gt;Ducat&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Pageant&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Exploration&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Patron&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Silk Merchant&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Guildhall&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Spices&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Swashbuckler&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Villain&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card that provide Villagers include &lt;strong&gt;Acting Troupe&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Recruiter&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Sculptor&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Lackeys&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Patron&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Silk Merchant&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Academy&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Exploration&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Allies&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The newest expansion, Allies, brings coin tokens back. In Allies, coin tokens are used to mark how many &amp;quot;Favor tokens&amp;quot; you have. Favor tokens can be spent in different ways each game depending on which Ally was chosen for that game. All cards with the new type &amp;quot;Liaison&amp;quot; can give you Favor tokens, and if your game includes any Liaison cards, you pick an Ally to add to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards that provide Favor tokens include &lt;strong&gt;Bauble&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Sycophant&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Importer&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Student&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Underling&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Broker&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Contract&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Emissary&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Guildmaster&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15935" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2024-03-14T20:03:43.757" LastActivityDate="2024-03-14T20:03:43.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29751" CreationDate="2016-04-17T12:59:24.813" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=74509&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Sakashima the Impostor&lt;/a&gt; copies a creature except its name; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spark%20Double&quot;&gt;Spark Double&lt;/a&gt; copies a creature or planeswalker except it loses legendary. There are other cards as well.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule that is responsible for preventing the existence of multiple identical legendaries is the so called &amp;quot;legend rule&amp;quot;. It is a state-based action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5j If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “legend rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only ways to get around the legend rule are if the creatures all have different names, or at most one of those with identical names is legendary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5Bcopy%5D+%5Blegendary%5D+!%5Bstorm%5D+!%5Bnonlegendary%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This Gatherer search&lt;/a&gt; include all sanctioned-legal cards that can copy a legendary creature to keep (plus a few that don't apply)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lazav%2C%20Dimir%20Mastermind&quot;&gt;Lazav, Dimir Mastermind&lt;/a&gt; only copies creatures that go to your opponent's graveyard, so the creature you want to copy has to go to your opponent's graveyard somehow, which requires either elaborate setup, or that your opponent also happens to play Geist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both creatures restrict you to one additional Geist each, because the legend rule still applies to Lazav and Sakashima, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20the%20Host&quot;&gt;Helm of the Host&lt;/a&gt; creates non-legendary token copies of the equipped creature. It costs 4 mana to cast and 5 mana to equip, but it lets you get any number of copies with only 1 reusable card invested.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group allows Un-sets, there is also &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rules%20Lawyer&quot;&gt;Rules Lawyer&lt;/a&gt;, which makes state-based actions not apply to you and your creatures, which disables the legend rule check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any creature with &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;type=%20%5B%22Creature%22%5D&amp;amp;text=%20%5Bmutate%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mutate&lt;/a&gt; and a second copy of the (non-human) legendary creature will allow you to avoid the Legend rule.  Mutate your first legendary creature, and be sure to put the mutation on top. Then, when another copy of the legendary enters the battlefield on your side, you get to keep it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kamigawa: Neon Dynasty added &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Box&quot;&gt;Mirror Box&lt;/a&gt; which is a strictly better version of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Gallery&quot;&gt;Mirror Gallery&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2022-03-02T19:38:37.820" LastActivityDate="2022-03-02T19:38:37.820" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29754" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29742" CreationDate="2016-04-17T19:01:06.173" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Finesses, now as always, are worth half a trick (absent information about opponents' distributions). In IMPs scoring, it is usually appropriate to take a finesse if that is the most likely way to make your contract, and usually inappropriate to take a finesse if it risks the contract for a chance at an overtrick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just because a contract is less likely to make, it doesn't change the value of a finesse. If a squeeze, endplay, or combination play gives you better chances, you should do that instead of finessing. If no better alternatives exist, you should finesse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be that finesses are more commonly employed by players who bid lighter games, but that doesn't reflect on their desirability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T19:01:06.173" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29755" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29756" CreationDate="2016-04-17T23:00:45.313" Score="5" ViewCount="3125" Body="&lt;p&gt;1/1 goblin, with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skullclamp&quot;&gt;Skullclamp&lt;/a&gt; attached, making its P/T 2/0 so it dies. Could it be sacrificed using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Bombardment&quot;&gt;Goblin Bombardment&lt;/a&gt; to deal 1 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15951" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T14:52:50.027" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:52:50.027" Title="Sacrificing a creature with 0 toughness" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29755" CreationDate="2016-04-17T23:08:01.200" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you don't have the opportunity to sacrifice that goblin. Every time someone would receive priority, just beforehand, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot;&gt;state based actions&lt;/a&gt; are checked and carried out. One of these state based actions is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Priority has to be obtained to be able to activate Goblin Bombardment's ability. By this point, state based actions have already been checked and the goblin is in its owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For all intents and purposes in this scenario, you might as well consider the goblin to have died instantly as soon as you put the Skullclamp on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-17T23:13:26.780" LastActivityDate="2016-04-17T23:13:26.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29757" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-17T23:25:33.613" Score="5" ViewCount="1039" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rite%20of%20Passage&quot;&gt;Rite of Passage&lt;/a&gt; gives creatures I control a +1/+1 counter whenever they are dealt damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a 1/1 creature was dealt one damage, would it be sent to the graveyard first or would the creature be saved by getting a +1/+1 counter? Is the same true for being dealt one damage by combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent and I had 1/1 spirit tokens and I also had rite of passage under my control and whenever I blocked his spirits with mine, he insisted that they have been dealt damage, therefore their toughness is brought to zero and they die before receiving a counter, but I argued that rite of passage's ability triggers instantaneously and they become 2/2 with a given counter, then he said &amp;quot;if that were true, that would be op&amp;quot;. Which version is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15950" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T01:13:53.990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:38:13.303" Title="Are 1/1 creatures sent to the graveyard from one damage before Rite of Passage's ability activates?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29757" CreationDate="2016-04-18T00:17:17.110" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You opponent was correct and the creature will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering there is virtually nothing that &quot;triggers instantaneously&quot;. With the exception of abilities that only create mana all abilities go on the stack. There are a few &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Special_action&quot;&gt;special actions&lt;/a&gt; that a player can perform that do not use the stack as well, but these are not considered &quot;abilities&quot; by the games rules. Also if there is an effect that says to do something &quot;instead of&quot; something else then the new action will occur when the original would and not go on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;None of these exceptions are relevant here so when combat damage happens the the trigger will go on the stack, then state based actions will be checked and the creature will die before the ability resolves or any player gains priority. Even if you had a special action you could perform that would save the creature it will be dead before you have a chance to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2016-04-18T14:18:16.287" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T14:18:16.287" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29757" CreationDate="2016-04-18T00:44:04.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;All triggers* use the stack. While the +1/+1 counters will be triggered, before you get a chance to put the triggers on the stack State Based Effects will be checked and your 1/1 tokens will be put in the graveyard. Once that is done you'll put your triggers on the stack but they aren't going to have much effect, it's too late to save your tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;* There is a minor exception that Fr33dan's answer mentions, triggered mana abilities skip the stack and just resolve. This isn't relevant to the question at hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7491" LastEditorUserId="7491" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T00:38:13.303" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T00:38:13.303" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29738" CreationDate="2016-04-18T09:00:04.507" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the rules don't state nothing special about monsters and local paths, you don't do anything special.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Monsters treat all paths equally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-18T09:00:04.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29761" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30026" CreationDate="2016-04-18T15:39:47.860" Score="3" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Descent 2nd edition, in the Shadow Vault scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of my heroes is carrying the objective token. The Overlord plays Dark Charm targeting that hero. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the Overlord force my hero to hand the token over to Baron Zachareth?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8404" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:59:40.360" Title="Dark Charm and Objective tokens" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29762" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29764" CreationDate="2016-04-18T23:00:09.107" Score="0" ViewCount="541" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the huge growth in the 3D printing and CNC areas over the past few years, you are starting to see a lot of custom pieces for existing board games. For instance, Risk boards made of walnut or Settlers of Catan pieces made from various exotic hardwoods and a plethora of customized replacement pieces. In the vast majority of cases, the items being made are of vastly superior quality and in some cases were designed to replace boards or game pieces that are no longer in print.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, what legal ramifications are there when creating these items in the U.S.? Technically it's a copy of an existing game both in name and rough design, but the actual product is often very different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15962" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T03:27:26.933" Title="Custom game boards and pieces for existing games" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|legal|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-04-19T08:53:29.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29762" CreationDate="2016-04-19T03:27:26.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am not a lawyer, but as long as you just create things for personal use, you're probably fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you make pieces and sell them, it's probably ok. You can already buy &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spielematerial.de/de/maennchen-klein-12767.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;meeples&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maydaygames.com/collections/tokens&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;assorted tokens&lt;/a&gt; online. Both shops are around for years already, so I guess it's fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5585" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T03:27:26.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29765" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29767" CreationDate="2016-04-19T04:05:33.200" Score="1" ViewCount="919" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Leprechaun (Tricksters Minion):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ongoing: After another player plays a minion here with less power than this minion's power, destroy it (resolve its ability first).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commission (Bear Cavalry Action):&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play an extra minion. Then move another player's minion from the extra minion's base to another base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Play&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A Leprechaun has a power of 5 and has been previously played on a base.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An opponent later plays Commission as their action, playing their extra minion on the same base as the Leprechaun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assumed Order&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several actions happen here, what order should those actions happen? My assumption is that they happen in this order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play extra minion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve the ability of the extra minion&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Leprechaun to another base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destroy the minion if it is less power than the Leprechaun.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? If not, what should it be? I wasn't able to find in the rules that addresses all these types of actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Why does this matter?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Leprechaun should destroy the minion before it's moved, it may have a different level of power before it's moved. For example, if the Leprechaun is moved to a base with the Sleep Spores action played on it, it has -1 power. This could affect whether or not the extra minion is lower power than it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T07:11:32.010" Title="When does a Leprechaun's Ongoing ability activate?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29774" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:05:07.317" Score="2" ViewCount="539" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the &lt;em&gt;Race for the Galaxy: The Brink of War&lt;/em&gt; expansion and it adds Prestige mechanics to the game. Those I understand. The &lt;em&gt;Prestige Leader&lt;/em&gt; mechanic, however, I don't understand and the rulebook isn't too clear. Why is it there? How does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:50:08.067" Title="How does the Prestige Leader mechanic work?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29765" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:11:32.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The correct order is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Commission is played. This triggers two abilities in order. (Step 2 and 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An extra minion is placed on the base. This triggers the ongoing ability of the Leprechaun. (Step 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new minion has less power so it will be destroyed. But it's ability is resolved first. If any. At the end of this step, the minion is gone.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The next ability ability of Commission is now executed. And Leprechaun is moved to another base. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of Smash-up are vague and conflicting (even the rules admit this). So you need common sense to resolve this. But in this case it is clear that both actions of Commission are executed in order (Play an extra minion. &lt;strong&gt;Then&lt;/strong&gt; move another player's minion from the extra minion's base to another base.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T07:11:32.010" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29768" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T07:13:52.210" Score="7" ViewCount="207" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the &lt;em&gt;Race for the Galaxy: The Brink of War&lt;/em&gt; expansion, which I haven't played yet. It comes with some additional Takeover markers. These two markers look like &quot;temporary defense gained by discarding cards&quot; markers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GxhDq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GxhDq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mystery marker from Race for the Galaxy: The Brink of War expansion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find the card that gives this power. The rulebook states they are for &lt;em&gt;Rebel Pact&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two counters are supplied to track a player’s total possible Military on&#xA;  defense (for use with &lt;em&gt;Rebel Pact&lt;/em&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But &lt;em&gt;Rebel Pact&lt;/em&gt; is part of the &lt;em&gt;Rebel vs. Imperium&lt;/em&gt; expansion. In Settle phase, it gives&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;+2 defense against a [takeover] for each... (Rebel military world) in your tableau; +1 defense for each other [military world] &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b60z.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0b60z.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rebel Pact&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the &lt;em&gt;Rebel vs. Imperium&lt;/em&gt; expansion already comes with markers for tracking &lt;em&gt;Rebel Pacts&lt;/em&gt; defense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Rebel Pact&lt;/em&gt; provides 2 Military for each Rebel military world&#xA;   and 1 Military for each non-Rebel military world in a player’s&#xA;   tableau at the start of Settle, when defending against takeovers. &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrKgt.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wrKgt.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rebel Pact Military marker&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What card are these markers used with? What do they mean?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GxhDq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GxhDq.png&quot; alt=&quot;Mystery marker from Race for the Galaxy: The Brink of War expansion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="212" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T20:56:28.680" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T20:56:28.680" Title="Are these &quot;temporary defense gained by discarding cards&quot; markers?" Tags="|race-for-the-galaxy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29770" CreationDate="2016-04-19T09:08:32.873" Score="5" ViewCount="724" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anyone knows the algorithm of AlphaGo? I heard that it's related to neural networks. But don't know the details? So it does not find the solution to win in a deterministic way, right? I think so, because Lee Sedol won one game. Is it true that in chess the DeepBlue solves for the unique solution to win, so there is no way human beings can beat her?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15963" LastActivityDate="2017-08-18T00:00:18.200" Title="How does AlphaGo calculate?" Tags="|go|computer-ai|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29769" CreationDate="2016-04-19T10:17:19.037" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the AlphaGo team's paper that has all of the details (behind a paywall): &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.nature.com/nature/journal/v529/n7587/full/nature16961.html&quot;&gt;http://www.nature.com/nature/journal/v529/n7587/full/nature16961.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave a couple of tech talks about this recently.&#xA;This one is about how AlphaGo works and the match with Fan Hui 2p: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTDxpxmFRGo&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTDxpxmFRGo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I gave another talk last year about why it's hard to create a good Go AI.  This one also briefly explains the rules: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blog.fogcreek.com/go-and-artificial-intelligence-tech-talk/&quot;&gt;http://blog.fogcreek.com/go-and-artificial-intelligence-tech-talk/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2086" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T10:17:19.037" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29766" CreationDate="2016-04-19T14:33:10.753" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When one player has more prestige tokens than any other player at the start of the round, he gets the Prestige Leader token.  Any Prestige earned during the round goes onto that token.  At the start of the round (before selecting phases), the leader removes the Prestige from that token (putting it with the rest of their Prestige/VP), earns 1 VP chip, and draws a card.  If, at the start of a round, the Prestige Leader has no prestige on top of the token (i.e. they didn't earn any new Prestige last round), they still get the 1 VP chip, but do not draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two or more players are tied for the most Prestige at the start of a round, then they all earn 1 VP chip.  No cards are drawn in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my estimation, the Prestige Leader mechanic is there to ensure that Prestige doesn't become nothing more than a different color of VP chip, and to reward players who continue to earn Prestige throughout the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:33:10.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29768" CreationDate="2016-04-19T14:44:28.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the Rulebook, next to a picture of these markers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Two counters are supplied to track a player’s total possible Military on&#xA;  defense (for use with Rebel Pact).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These markers are for use on your military track to show you (and your opponents) your potential maximum defense if you count both your defensive bonus from Rebel Pact and all your sources of temporary Military (denoted by the discard symbol on the token).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 8 of the rulebook has an illustration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T14:44:28.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29774" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29766" CreationDate="2016-04-19T15:50:08.067" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The instructions in the rules are pretty clear if you read them and follow them directly. If it helps, it pretty much boils down to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there's a single prestige leader, and they gained prestige last turn as they became prestige leader or afterwards, they get 1VP and 1 card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there's a single prestige leader, but they only gained prestige on earlier turns, they get 1VP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if there's a tie for prestige leader, all tied players get 1VP&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In practice, the condition for getting 1VP &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; 1 card (the first bullet point) is pretty much always equivalent to whether the sole prestige leader gained prestige on the previous turn. The only time it's not is if, say, they became prestige leader during Develop, they lost it/became tied during Settle, and they became sole leader again during Consume; that's of course quite rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to remind yourself of all this, you pass around the prestige leader token. Whenever there's a single leader, they get that token, and they put any prestige they gain on it as a reminder that next turn they'll get 1VP &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; 1 card. When they get that bonus, they take their prestige back as a reminder that next turn they'll just get the 1VP. When there's a tie, you flip it over to the tie side, and the former leader takes back their prestige, as a reminder that it'll just be the 1VP bonus next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And... the point of this is to provide small ongoing rewards for prestige! In some cases, it's even enough to make prestige a good overall plan for your game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T15:50:08.067" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23898" CreationDate="2016-04-19T16:43:58.583" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the auction, Responder is the captain responsible for both level and strain for the partnership.  If Responder then completely describes her hand, she then cedes the captaincy to opener.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T16:43:58.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29776" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29710" CreationDate="2016-04-19T17:22:33.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have played through most (though not all) of the munchkin sets, and I think that you would enjoy playing any set combined with &quot;Cheat with Both Hands&quot;. Just trying to have a fun set to choose from is great, and adding in all the crazy cards and class/race cards makes it even better. I would try to stuff your munchkin set full of big items and monsters that you enjoy playing against, that's how I usually pick out what my particulars doors and cards are, and it works out very well. So just make sure to pick out a set you like, a set that is crazy, and pick your favorites from both.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T17:22:33.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29777" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T17:33:33.033" Score="4" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;My specific question is regarding &lt;strong&gt;Lightpulsar Dragon&lt;/strong&gt; and why it misses it's timing (&lt;em&gt;such as when synchro summoning&lt;/em&gt;), while cards like &lt;strong&gt;Tuningware&lt;/strong&gt; don't. I am mainly just looking for an explanation as to how and why cards miss timing, as I have been playing Yugioh for years, but have never quite understood why timing is such a frustrating rule to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:40:13.147" Title="Why do cards miss their timing?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29779" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:19:47.643" Score="8" ViewCount="18122" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1/1 Devil token (ala &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Devils%27%20Playground&quot;&gt;Devils&amp;#39; Playground&lt;/a&gt;) on board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Just%20the%20Wind&quot;&gt;Just the Wind&lt;/a&gt; cast on the 1/1 Devil&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Token gets removed from board&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;?? Devil does 1 damage to target creature or player ??&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15970" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T18:25:56.370" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T13:05:30.130" Title="If a token is returned to hand, is it considered dying?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29778" CreationDate="2016-04-19T18:25:07.210" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, no, it doesn't die. &quot;Dies&quot; has a specific meaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.” &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The token does cease to exist once in the player's hand, but that's due to other rules, and that's not considered dying either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.5f A token that’s phased out, or that’s in a zone other than the battlefield, ceases to exist. This is a state-based action; see rule 704. (Note that if a token changes zones, applicable triggered abilities will trigger before the token ceases to exist.)  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, this has an interesting implication that a token can die and is temporarily in the graveyard, thus satisfying death triggers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T13:05:30.130" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T13:05:30.130" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29780" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-19T19:57:01.123" Score="1" ViewCount="613" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group and I enjoy Eclipse, but it has fallen out of favor because of the extreme chance in battle on die rolls. Heck, I can't even get my wife to play at all because the first three games she played, each time she would be in a good early spot to take a good resource hex with a single alien on it and would instead get obliterated (we are talking like 80% or 90% chance to take win). That is no fun. We have moved on to other games like Smallworld and Agricola where it is more about strategy than luck, but I would like to find a way to put Eclipse back into the rotation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tested any house rules that would lessen the harshness of chance in die rolls?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that came to my mind is a self-made technology that could be purchased and would allow the player to re-roll on a 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="15783" LastEditDate="2016-04-19T20:40:56.740" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T03:20:29.263" Title="Eclipse: some House rules to cut down on chance in die rolling?" Tags="|house-rules|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29738" CreationDate="2016-04-19T21:17:29.203" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd say it doesn't matter what path as long as it's the least number of paths and if it does seem to matter, decide together.  If indecision Lead Investigator would decide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p8 of reference guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;When investigators make a decision as a group, the Lead Investigator&#xA;  makes the final decision.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;p16 of the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;The Lead Investigator decides all disputes.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would further say that this is an excellent application of the general rule, if there are two paths pick the one that harms the investigators more.  If they're equally harmful, go with the above.  I wouldn't spend too long deciding on &quot;equally harmful&quot; either=)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastActivityDate="2016-04-19T21:17:29.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29783" CreationDate="2016-04-20T00:01:10.247" Score="5" ViewCount="147" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have heard of &quot;International Tabletop Day&quot; being a celebration of board games and roleplaying games, and that some stores have events for it. When is that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, do previous dates provide any clues as to when we can expect future dates to be so that stores etc. can plan accordingly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T17:38:41.190" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T17:38:41.190" Title="When is International Tabletop Day?" Tags="|events|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29782" CreationDate="2016-04-20T00:01:10.247" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tabletopday.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;International Tabletop Day&lt;/a&gt; has been hosted by &lt;a href=&quot;http://geekandsundry.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Geek &amp;amp; Sundry&lt;/a&gt; every year since 2013,* but the schedule has been somewhat inconsistent as to when it is. I had a hard time finding the dates, especially for the early ones, but here they are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://herocomplex.latimes.com/games/international-tabletop-day-wil-wheaton-wants-you-to-play-board-games/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;March 30, 2013&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/GeekandSundry/statuses/425090935064891392&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 5, 2014&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://nerdist.com/geek-sundry-announces-international-tabletop-day-for-2015/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 11, 2015&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://geekandsundry.com/geek-sundry-announces-international-tabletop-day-2016/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 30, 2016&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tabletopday.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-international-tabletop-day-2017/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 29, 2017&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.tabletopday.com/join-geek-sundry-for-international-tabletop-day-on-april-28-2018/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;April 28, 2018&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the pattern for the last couple of years holds, then one would expect that in the future it will be held on the last Saturday in April.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;* The logo for International TableTop Day says that it's &quot;since 2012&quot;, but I cannot find any evidence that it was actually held in that year. @PatLudwig in the comments provides supporting evidence that 2013 was the first.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-04-17T17:31:33.680" LastActivityDate="2018-04-17T17:31:33.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29785" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29812" CreationDate="2016-04-20T09:39:27.127" Score="9" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assume no superko rules so the game would end with no result. And both players are willing to play the shortest possible cycle as long as they don't give their opponent a chance to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 moves in the example of &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?EternalLife&quot;&gt;eternal life&lt;/a&gt;, 6 moves in &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?TripleKo&quot;&gt;triple ko&lt;/a&gt;. And I think I have seen a 8 move one. Is there a known longer one? Is that proven to be the longest possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15981" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T14:46:49.863" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T14:46:49.863" Title="What's the longest possible forced repetition in Go?" Tags="|go|ko|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:21:40.717" Score="2" ViewCount="321" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a fun little &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4848&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shocker&lt;/a&gt; deck. From Gatherer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whenever Shocker deals damage to a player&lt;/strong&gt;, that player discards all the cards in his or her hand, then draws that many cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the errata does not specify combat damage. When the stars align I usually have the following auras on the Shocker.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=130530&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Arcane Teachings&lt;/a&gt;: Enchanted creature gets +2/+2 and has &quot;Tap: This creature deals 1 damage to target creature or player.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=270813&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sigil of Sleep&lt;/a&gt;: Whenever enchanted creature deals damage to a player, return target creature that player controls to its owner's hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that when I damage a player (I even targeted myself to get a new hand in desperation) that his hand is discarded and new cards are drawn. Then at the &lt;em&gt;same time&lt;/em&gt; a creature (assuming there is a legal target) returns to his hand. Netting the player 1 extra card in his hand once the action is completed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this correct? Are there rules addressing this scenario?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15982" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:29:03.503" Title="What is the sequence of actions when my Shocker removes cards and places cards in my opponents hand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-20T17:25:50.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29786" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:29:03.503" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When two or more trigger happen at the same time, the player controlling those triggers put them on the stack in an order of his/her choice, beginning with the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your scenario, you can put the discard/draw trigger first and the bounce creature trigger second on the stack. This way, the bounce trigger will resolve first, so he/she will have to discard this creature, too, when the other trigger resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note, that he/she can respond to all triggers placed on the stack. If the bounced creature has Flash for example, he/she could replay it, before he/she has to discard&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13769" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T12:29:03.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29788" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:37:40.063" Score="6" ViewCount="709" Body="&lt;p&gt;I acquired a collection of cards among which were some sinkholes. One in particular is signed;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A4MO5.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/A4MO5.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Signed sinkhole card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the name in concept. &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Duelist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From the wiki page for The Duelist&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Mr. Suitcase&quot; being a reference to the large collections of cards that some players would carry with them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I even found an article by a person asking to referred to by that name on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/serious-fun/call-me-mr-suitcase-2008-08-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wizards.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CALL ME MR. SUITCASE&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the latter I had tried reaching out to the author but received nor response. However given the name of the author is Kelly Digges I doubt that is his signature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the former holds true it could just be anybody. I am curious to know if this is somebody? Searching for BuHo didn't get me anywhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15982" LastEditorUserId="15982" LastEditDate="2016-04-20T13:07:46.957" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T23:59:48.490" Title="Can anyone tell me who Mr. Suitcase is?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29790" CreationDate="2016-04-20T12:59:50.280" Score="7" ViewCount="721" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing a game of EDH against 3 other opponents and I control an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Everlasting%20Torment&quot;&gt;Everlasting Torment&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Horde%20of%20Notions&quot;&gt;Horde of Notions&lt;/a&gt;, and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necroskitter&quot;&gt;Necroskitter&lt;/a&gt; in my graveyard. My opponents control a whole host of non-token creatures. If one of us were to cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasphemous%20Act&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt; for example and I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Horde%20of%20Notions&quot;&gt;Horde of Notions&lt;/a&gt; ability to bring back &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necroskitter&quot;&gt;Necroskitter&lt;/a&gt;, would I then gain control of all creatures that died to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasphemous%20Act&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, as a bonus question: What about if they cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt; instead of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasphemous%20Act&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="13507" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T13:28:50.627" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T13:28:50.627" Title="Necroskitter and Everlasting Torment" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29789" CreationDate="2016-04-20T13:25:04.393" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get back all non-token creatures killed by having 0 (or less) toughness after the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blasphemous%20Act&quot;&gt;Blasphemous Act&lt;/a&gt; thanks to the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necroskitter&quot;&gt;Necroskitter&lt;/a&gt; (unless something else prevents them from hitting the graveyard or moves them from the graveyard before your triggers resolve).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Someone casts Blasphemous Act.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response you bring back your Necroskitter with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Horde%20of%20Notions&quot;&gt;Horde of Notions&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blasphemous Act resolves, all creatures get 13 -1/-1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based effects are checked, all creatures with 0 toughness or less die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Necroskitter triggers for each dying creature your opponents control.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Profit!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: while they trigger Necroskitter like any creature, you won't return token creatures because they cease to exist as soon as they enter the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note 2: You also won't get the creatures if they get moved from the graveyard before your triggers resolve (it can happen depending on which player is the active player if something like a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mortus%20Strider&quot;&gt;Mortus Strider&lt;/a&gt; dies) or if they don't get into the graveyard in the first place (for example with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rest%20in%20Peace&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, in which case Necroskitter doesn't trigger at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This doesn't work with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;, because it says &amp;quot;If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it instead.&amp;quot;. It works even if the damage was done in the form of -1/-1 counters. And it is a replacement effect, preventing the act of dying altogether so you don't get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Necroskitter&quot;&gt;Necroskitter&lt;/a&gt; triggers at all, just like with Rest in Peace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5048" LastEditorUserId="5048" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T07:45:04.203" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T07:45:04.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29792" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-20T21:09:47.553" Score="1" ViewCount="84" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusory%20Gains&quot;&gt;Illusory Gains&lt;/a&gt; strikes me as a rather strange card with the potential for some rather unique interactions, one of which I'm hoping someone might be able to explain to me. Take this situation:&#xA;My opponent has a Bear Cub and an Baulduvian Bear, I cast Illusory Gains on the Bear Cub and the cub comes under my control. I end my turn.&#xA;On my Opponents turn he attacks with the Baulduvian Bear.&#xA;I declare the Bear Cub as a blocker.&#xA;After blockers have been declared but before damage my opponent flashes in a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashcoat%20Bear&quot;&gt;Ashcoat Bear&lt;/a&gt;, so I must attach Illusory Gains to it and lose control of the Bear cub. What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the cub removed from combat and nothing takes damage? The only thing that is changed is who controls the creature, so it is still the same card (unlike if it had been exiled and returned).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do both Bear Cub and Baulduvian Bear take 2 damage from each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does something else happen?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15514" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T21:09:47.553" Title="Does Illusory Gains allow someone to block their own creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-20T21:36:49.467" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29788" CreationDate="2016-04-20T23:59:48.490" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, there was never any one person known as Mr. Suitcase. Mr. Suitcase is old-school slang for someone with a lot of cards. More likely than not this was just some random guy who was kind of a big deal at his local shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The basic idea is that in the early years your average player didn't have a lot of money as most players were students. So they would show up to tournaments with decks built from their limited collections of cards.  Mr. Suitcase, however. Well, he had tons of disposable income and a collection to match.  A collection so big he had to carry it around in a gosh-darned suitcase. This meant that he could build pretty much any deck he wanted and it would be better than anything else anybody else could bring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mr. Suitcase isn't necessarily good but he usually has an ego. It's not surprising that he would sign what was probably his ante card when he lost the match&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-20T23:59:48.490" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29795" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29796" CreationDate="2016-04-21T02:49:09.767" Score="3" ViewCount="1669" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383442&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Yisan, the Wanderer Bard&lt;/a&gt; on the battleground with &lt;code&gt;5&lt;/code&gt; verse counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6H9J3.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6H9J3.png&quot; alt=&quot;Yisan, the Wanderer Bard&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then suppose I have something in my library with an {X} in the mana cost, like a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383255&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Genesis Hydra&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsJj0.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsJj0.png&quot; alt=&quot;Genesis Hydra&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I get to play Genesis Hydra as though it were cast using {3}{G}{G}?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware of &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 107.3.g&lt;/a&gt;, which reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.3g If an effect instructs a player to pay an object’s mana cost that includes {X}, the value of X is treated as 0 unless the object is&#xA;  a spell on the stack. In that case, the value of X is the value chosen&#xA;  or determined for it as the spell was cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's my understanding that Yisan's ability goes onto the stack. Does Genesis Hydra &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; go onto the stack, allowing me to choose {X}? Or ... ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13048" LastEditorUserId="13048" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T02:55:30.157" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:48:48.483" Title="Do I decide {X} for cards in my library for effects and abilities asking for a particular CMC?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29796" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29795" CreationDate="2016-04-21T02:54:51.847" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two relevant (overlapping) rules for this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/X&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;107.3f&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; If a card in any zone other than the stack has an {X} in its mana cost, the value of {X} is treated as 0, even if the value of X is defined somewhere within its text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_cost&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3c&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with an {X} in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in this case, Genesis Hydra's CMC is always 2 when it is in your library, so you can only search for it if Yisan has exactly two verse counters. Then, if you do search for it and have it enter the battlefield, X is still considered to be 0, so it has no +1/+1 counters and dies immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T17:48:48.483" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29780" CreationDate="2016-04-21T02:56:46.107" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Average Dice:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;The easiest solution would to use an average die, i.e. a d6 with the faces:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;0/1/1/2/2/3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;0 is a automatic miss&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3 is a automatic hit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A modified 3 is a normal hit, e.g. a rolled 1 with +2 from computers is a hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the extreme swings (all dice show automatic hit/miss) are not mitigated, the impact of the modifiers (computers, shields) is twice as large, decreasing the overall randomness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an average die is rolled you must remember if it is yellow (1 hit = 1 damage), orange (1 hit = 2 damage) or red (1 hit = 4 damage). Potentially rolling the dice of different colors after each other to prevent confusion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All other rules should be applicable. Outside of combat, still normal d6 are necessary (e.g. for hive hexes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Average dice are available online (either physical or as an app) and are useful in numerous games to reduce the randomness of the dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No Automatic Hit/Miss&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you want to address the extreme swings, then remove the automatic hit/miss parts of the game, i.e. a 1 can hit with +5 modifier and a 6 misses against -1 shield. I wouldn't recommend this, as shield become too powerful (ships cannot be hit at all), but if this suits your taste, why not? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly average dice and not automatic hits/misses can be combined for an drastic reduction of the luck in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastEditorUserId="14326" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T03:20:29.263" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T03:20:29.263" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29798" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29761" CreationDate="2016-04-21T04:24:15.973" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In short, &lt;strong&gt;NO&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning is based on the two pieces of information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dark Charm card mentioned above has the following text (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play this card on a hero at the start of your turn. The hero tests Willpower. If he passes, draw 1 Overlord card. If he fails, you may perform a &lt;strong&gt;move&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;attack&lt;/strong&gt; action with that hero as if he were one of your monsters this turn. You cannot force him to suffer Fatigue or use a Potion, but you may force him to attack himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only two actions that the overlord can take after using this ability is to move or attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that isn't sufficient, trading is described as follows (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Heroes may give or receive Shop Item cards, Relic cards, and Search&#xA;  cards to or from &lt;strong&gt;each other&lt;/strong&gt; during a move action. At any point during&#xA;  his move action, a hero may trade any number of Shop Item cards, Relic&#xA;  cards, or Search cards with an adjacent hero. Trading does not require an&#xA;  additional action or the expense of movement points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing here stating that the hero can trade with an enemy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T04:24:15.973" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29723" CreationDate="2016-04-21T14:33:28.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are numerous podcasts that cover this sort of thing. Multiple kickstarters have gone into detail on it. I think &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dicetower.com/game-podcast/dice-tower&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dice Tower Productions&lt;/a&gt; recently talked about card stock pricng (Episode 450-453 somewhere around there). I think &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/gerdling/two-rooms-and-a-boom/posts/679772&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Two Rooms and a Boom's Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt; went into detail in card quality because it was certainly an issue in their highly anticipated yet highly delayed product.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Card Quality can vary from a number of ways from the finish which can be variations of smooth glossy or textured matte, the core (notably black core isn't see thru in white areas), the construction (paper or plastic) and the weight (thicker cards weigh more, &lt;em&gt;gsm&lt;/em&gt; in the listings below means &lt;em&gt;grams per square meter&lt;/em&gt;. Those are just some of the variations in card quality. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The black core means that no light can pass through the cards regardless of what is or is not printed on either side (&lt;a href=&quot;http://news.thegamecrafter.com/post/118953839884/new-card-stock-and-better-bulk-pricing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;TGC&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.makeplayingcards.com/low-price-for-bulk.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MakePlayingCardsNow.com's website&lt;/a&gt; gives some pricing information that can make a nice jump off point for estimation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-99 Bridge Cards (Per Deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;270gsm promotional quality          $6.55&#xA;300gsm premium quality              $6.85&#xA;330gsm superior smooth quality      $7.65&#xA;310gsm casino quality (French)      $7.45&#xA;13pt White Plastic (100%)           $12.85&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-99 Poker Cards (Per Deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;270gsm promotional quality          $6.55&#xA;300gsm premium quality              $6.85&#xA;330gsm superior smooth quality      $7.65&#xA;310gsm casino quality (French)      $7.45&#xA;13pt White Plastic (100%)           $12.85&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-99 Lard Cards (Per Deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Our large sized playing cards measures 3.5&quot; x 5.75&quot; and are popular for marketing needs or used as flash cards in school&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;300gsm premium quality              $9.80&#xA;330gsm superior smooth quality      $11.40&#xA;13pt White Plastic (100%)           $23.80&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-99 Tarot Cards (Per Deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tarot cards measures 2.75&quot; x 4.75&quot; and comes in deck sizes of 78. Perfect for those into tarot card reading or for promotional purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;300gsm premium quality              $11.20&#xA;330gsm superior smooth quality      $14.00&#xA;13pt White Plastic (100%)           $27.20&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-99 Mini Cards (Per Deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mini size playing cards measures 1.75&quot; x 2.5&quot; and are great as promotional client gifts or re-sell at retail. They make great gifts to friends too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;270gsm promotional quality          $4.20&#xA;300gsm premium quality              $4.50&#xA;330gsm superior smooth quality      $4.90&#xA;310gsm casino quality (French)      $4.90&#xA;13pt White Plastic (100%)           $8.50&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;50-99 Micro Cards (Per Deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Micro custom blank cards measures 1.25&quot; x 1.75&quot; and comes in deck sizes from 54 to 360. These micro card decks are the smallest in our range of customizable cards. They are popular for small card figurines printing for board game or can be used for any other purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;270gsm promotional quality          $2.40&#xA;300gsm premium quality              $2.70&#xA;330gsm superior smooth quality      $2.90&#xA;13pt White Plastic (100%)           $4.70&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's even more sizes if you care to go to the website, and of course more pricing schedules. The numbers range from 1 to 15000&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T14:58:05.040" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T14:58:05.040" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23100" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:12:09.567" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1215457/combined-base-sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;James Cheng:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the option rules for combining and playing with both set mix up is to alternate your game with two separate decks. So you can play two game with each half of the combined deck. The second game will have a little more knowledge about what you might expect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Richard Brady of Cryptozoic chimes in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Cryptozoic, if we want to play with mixed sets... we generally mix all the cards up from the first two (and future!) sets and then count out about 115 or so cards to be our main deck. Sometimes you get some scary games with a lot of Villain cards but for the most part it's worked out pretty cool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, I'd suggest making a deck list of your favorite cards but make sure it's somewhere between 110-140. If you go above 140 it actually gets fairly easy, though we've made our own weird variants that use over that amount. We have never gone over 150 as far as I can remember.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;John Galietta III:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recall my rulebook perusal correctly, it recommends that if you wish to customize the decks, use 25 cards per player. With 1-3 player games this is a little small, so I'd say no smaller than 100 cards. But just a random 100+ cards seems a little random for my tastes. You don't get as much of the synergy you normally would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I usually keep my main decks separate. If I want to play using both sets, we use both decks separately, using 2 line ups. With the rules that A) you can only buy/gain/affect one line-up per turn, and B) when you buy/gain a card from the line-up, destroy the card in the second line-up in the same spot. There was a file about this variant in one of the forums.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say for that, if you wanted to use the new main deck cards as well just mix 16 into each of the main decks. this variant wouldn't work very well in Crisis mode, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's also &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/15137109#15137109&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this article&lt;/a&gt; on a supposed balance of combining the two decks. That might work as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short while there are workarounds some of which are semi-official. There's no official method of combining. There are however many player suggested varients that should resolve the complexities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T18:12:13.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13739" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:16:32.057" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you're referring to the original version of Evolution. (I'm pretty sure the North Star Games version doesn't have mimicry). The new target must be eligible for attack by carnivore. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1257724/question-about-mimicry&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;You can not force it to attack an invalid target.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:16:32.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29777" CreationDate="2016-04-21T15:40:13.147" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Pulsar says &lt;strong&gt;when&lt;/strong&gt;, tuningware says &lt;strong&gt;if&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Pulsar is sent to the grave during synchro summoning is in the middle of a resolving chain, and nothing can occur other than the resolving chain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However tuningware and similar cards that say if only require it to go to the grave sometime during a chain to have their effect go off&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7768" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T15:40:13.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29803" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-21T16:19:27.047" Score="1" ViewCount="65" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens with fistful and boots? Do you draw for the hits from fistful between the hits? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Boots (1 stock, 3 cost, black border) For each lost life point, you draw 1 card from deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A Fistful of Cards: at the beginning of his turn, each player is the target of as many Bang! as the number of cards in his hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16000" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-04-21T16:37:17.947" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T18:17:56.310" Title="Bang! Fistful and Boots" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29807" CreationDate="2016-04-21T17:46:25.570" Score="3" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to figure out what are the chance if getting 2 or more mana after parleying &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Selvala%2C%20Explorer%20Returned&quot;&gt;Selvala, Explorer Returned&lt;/a&gt;, assuming that using commander/EDH one third of the deck is land and that at least four people are playing. Mainly curious after my friends mentioned way to go infinite if I could reliably generate mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16003" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-22T08:24:01.160" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T17:20:59.597" Title="What's the odds of Selvala's parley granting 2 or more mana?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29803" CreationDate="2016-04-21T18:17:56.310" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each bang is coming in as a separate event so you will draw a card each time you take damage.  Just like if you had a barrel and you would flip for each one.  Also if you are playing the character with the same ability as boots you would draw for each one. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-04-21T18:17:56.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29804" CreationDate="2016-04-21T18:44:51.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the situation you describe, each player reveals their card independently, and you get mana equal to the number of non-land cards revealed. This is called a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binomial_distribution&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Binomial Distribution&lt;/a&gt;, with &lt;code&gt;N = 4&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;P = 2/3&lt;/code&gt; in your particular case. So, the probability of getting exactly &lt;code&gt;k&lt;/code&gt; mana is &lt;code&gt;(4 choose k) * (2/3) ^ k * (1/3) ^ (n - k)&lt;/code&gt;. You are specifically looking for the probability of getting at least a certain amount of mana, so you are looking for the Cumulative Binomial Distribution. To get the probability of getting &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; a certain amount of mana, you simply add up the probabilities for each amount that is at least that number. So, to calculate that for your particular situation, you would calculate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfEvu.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HfEvu.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Sum from k = 2 to 4 of (4 choose k) * (2 / 3) ^ k * (1 / 3) ^ (4 - k)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fully general formula for this, if you want to get at least M mana is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coiQa.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/coiQa.gif&quot; alt=&quot;Sum from k = M to N of (N choose k) * (P) ^ k * (1 - P) ^ (N - k)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the particular case of &lt;code&gt;k = 2&lt;/code&gt;, we can instead simply consider the cases where you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; get at least 2 mana, and then subtract that total probability from 1. For each player, the probability of only that player flipping a non-land is 2/3 * (1/3) ^ (N - 1). The probability of every player flipping a land is (1/3) ^ N. So, the total probability of getting at least two mana is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A5EK.gif&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A5EK.gif&quot; alt=&quot;1 - (N * 2/3 * (1/3) ^ (N - 1) + (1/3) ^ N)&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 4 players, this probability is 8/9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T17:20:59.597" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T17:20:59.597" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29809" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29821" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:51:07.817" Score="10" ViewCount="9814" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/182028/through-ages-new-story-civilization&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Through the Ages: A &lt;strong&gt;New&lt;/strong&gt; Story of Civilization&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is described as a new edition of &lt;em&gt;Through the Ages: A Story of Civilization&lt;/em&gt;. What are the major changes between the two versions?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T03:31:03.483" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T03:31:03.483" Title="What are the major changes between Through the Ages: A New Story of Civilization and the first game?" Tags="|through-the-ages|edition-comparison|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29809" CreationDate="2016-04-21T20:51:07.817" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;BGO Developer Nicholas Vlaada and the rest of his team wrote a detailed list of all the changes, along with his rationale, which has been &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/19960120#19960120&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reprinted on Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;. In short, it's a lot of rebalancing and changes to the way that certain actions work, but it is largely the same game as before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-24T01:35:32.240" LastActivityDate="2018-03-24T01:35:32.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29811" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-22T03:06:31.480" Score="7" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that a book publisher typically publishes the work of an author, and takes responsibility for the printing and distribution of the book, and take some kind of percentage of the sales of the book. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are board games published in a similar manner, or do board game publishers design games 'in house' and pay designers a fixed salary? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T18:17:34.293" Title="Do board game publishers design games 'in house', or do they merely publish games by external designers?" Tags="|game-development|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29785" CreationDate="2016-04-22T12:18:31.730" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Molasses ko: &lt;a href=&quot;http://denisfeldmann.fr/bestiary3.htm#mol&quot;&gt;http://denisfeldmann.fr/bestiary3.htm#mol&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The semeai in figure 11 is probably the worst known case of repetition. Known as &quot;molasses ko&quot;, ...&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Denis Feldmann's Go Bestiary is a compendium of various things (interresting semeai, life and death, edge cases, incredible problems, rules edge cases, weird sekis, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4781" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T12:18:31.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29813" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29874" CreationDate="2016-04-22T12:32:06.610" Score="5" ViewCount="1144" Body="&lt;p&gt;Eldritch Horror is starting to feel a bit same-y for me so I`m thinking of spicing things up with an expansion (one of the small ones, since the big ones are ridiculously expensive for me, at that price - or cheaper -  I can get a whole new game). But anyway, after researching what Forsaken Lore and Strange Remnants offer I incline towards the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what Forsaken Lore has and I find &lt;strong&gt;really&lt;/strong&gt; interesting is the fact that you get 2 new mysteries for the 4 base-game AOO. This sounds great, because a big part of the repetitive nature of EH for me is the fact that in each game you tackle 3 out of only 4 possible mysteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hence my question: can you please let me know what the 8 mysteries in Forsaken Lore (2 for each base game AOO) do? Photos would be great, but if you think that could raise copyright issues a text description of them would be enough, don`t much care about flavour text. If the new mysteries are interesting enough and feel significantly different than the base game ones I just might get Forsaken Lore for now, even though I find Strange Remnants more attractive (thematically, investigator and AOO-wise). Thanks a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16005" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T17:17:55.610" Title="Forsaken Lore expansion for Eldritch Horror: what are the new mysteries for the base game AOO?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-forsaken-lore|eldritch-horror-strange-remnants|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18020" CreationDate="2016-04-22T23:49:39.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm a little late, but better late than never!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recently developed a Pokémon TCG API that allows anyone to consume Pokémon card and set data in JSON format. It has data from every set, starting with Base. For full details, check out the homepage at &lt;a href=&quot;https://pokemontcg.io&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://pokemontcg.io&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6973" LastActivityDate="2016-04-22T23:49:39.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29815" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T05:00:15.010" Score="5" ViewCount="1862" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say an explorer is wearing the Mask Omen Card that has an effect causing you to gain two knowledge and lose two sanity when you put it on. It says when you take off the mask, the effect of the mask is reverted. But that is what happens when you manually take off the mask. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then let's say someone steals the mask from the explorer that is wearing it during the haunt. When the item is stolen, would you agree that you lose the effect of the item?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mates argued that the card didn't say you lose the effect when it is stolen (it didn't say a thing about being stolen at all). My logic was the effect the mask is caused by wearing the mask. If the mask is stolen it is the same as taking it off, and you lose the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could be crazy but I think my logic is a slam dunk.  As it is two against one I thought I would see if there is consensus one way or the other amongst gamers here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11775" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T04:13:01.560" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:16:42.763" Title="Is having the Mask Omen Card stolen from you have the same effect as taking it off?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29817" CreationDate="2016-04-23T05:29:35.843" Score="4" ViewCount="205" Body="&lt;p&gt;South bids, say 2 spades, then west bids 'double', then all others pass.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does this mean that south is the declarer with the contract being 2 spades doubled?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Or does west win the contract with 2 spades doubled? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My intuition in reading so far suggests that south would still win the auction, but I have not explicitly read that this is the case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this is not intended to touch on any bidding conventions either, just simply how this affects who wins the auction. I do believe I understand the consequences in the game play or rather the scoring of a doubled bid, but I am simply uncertain who would have won the auction under these circumstances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16009" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2019-04-14T04:44:20.783" LastActivityDate="2019-04-14T04:44:20.783" Title="Does a bid of 'Double' make you the declarer?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29816" CreationDate="2016-04-23T06:41:26.797" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your understanding is correct: South would be the declarer, playing a contract of two spades doubled. Doubles (and redoubles) never change who is declarer, just the scores for making or failing to make the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5918" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T07:03:18.700" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T07:03:18.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7935" CreationDate="2016-04-23T10:02:12.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Munchkin cards are one of the standard card sizes so you should be able to pick up some card sleeves at a LGS or big-box store even. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16011" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T10:02:12.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-23T17:48:00.640" Score="4" ViewCount="1417" Body="&lt;p&gt;Okay, so I was looking through some eldrazi to purchase and I came across &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpawnsire%20of%20Ulamog%5d&quot;&gt;Spawnsire of Ulamog&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LknNW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LknNW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Spawnspire of Ulamog card image&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to purchase it for my deck but I want to know how it works before I buy it. My question is, when you bring creatures from outside the game to the battlefield with this ability, when/if those creatures die, where do they go? Do they hit the graveyard or get removed from play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16012" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2016-04-23T18:55:39.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T18:55:39.970" Title="Do creatures from outside the game go to the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29819" CreationDate="2016-04-23T18:10:39.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Once a card has been brought into the game, it is treated like any card you have started the game with.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game rules make no distinction between cards from your deck and those that have been brought into the game after the game has started, they function exactly the same. Therefore, any card you bring into the game with  Spawnsire will do whatever it usually does, including going to the graveyard if the game rules require it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only difference is that you have to remove those cards from your deck before the next game starts, but that's a matter of tournament rules rather than game/match rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T18:10:39.087" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29809" CreationDate="2016-04-23T22:02:23.963" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;The new edition was released during Essen 2015. Information on it was readily available since summer 2015, although the game was still at a prototype state. In brief, the new version revolves around 3 major overhauls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Complete graphic redesign. While the older game did work, the cards and the player boards were rather dull. All cards in the new version have their own unique, engaging illustration.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card rebalancing: based on analysis of thousands online games, it was noticed that a couple of cards were very strong, while others were very weak or skipped. For instance, nobody was interested in building a new Mine/Farm in late Age II, or everybody was taking Napoleon with 3 Civil Actions. These issues have been fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Streamlined rules: corruption was an unnecessarily complex phase, so it was moved forward, before production, reducing downtime. Military was also nerfed quite a bit, as sacrifices were completely removed from aggressions &amp;amp; wars and it's a bit easier to defend in the early game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest further reading of two comprehensive articles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1452204/l&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;List of rule changes&lt;/a&gt;; all rule differences between the two versions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1450917&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;List of card changes&lt;/a&gt;; all rebalanced and tweaked cards in the new version.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-04-23T22:02:23.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29825" CreationDate="2016-04-24T02:43:18.847" Score="3" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic, a cube is a collection of cards that is handpicked to make a good draft. A cube draft is a type of limited format that uses a cube to draft from. But what does &quot;cube&quot; mean? Does it refer to a collection of cards in the general sense, or is it Magic-specific terminology? Where did this term originate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="16017" LastEditDate="2016-04-24T12:42:53.273" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T12:42:53.273" Title="Where does the term &quot;cube&quot; come from?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29824" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T03:02:23.560" Score="8" ViewCount="2039" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me figure out the what the largest number of possible moves for a given turn would be in Othello/Reversi? On the first turn, there are 4 possible legal moves, the next player has 3 possible, and depending on that move, the next turn there are 4 or 5 possible moves. I'm not sure how to go about figuring out the best-case case scenario for a player to gain the most possible moves that turn, and I'd like to find out what this maximum is. I searched around, but only saw information on maximum number of games possible, which is not what I'm looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16015" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T08:38:45.150" LastActivityDate="2023-05-15T00:30:41.203" Title="Othello - Most number of legal moves in a given turn" Tags="|othello|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29823" CreationDate="2016-04-24T03:08:52.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://markrosewater.tumblr.com/post/104561355723/why-is-it-called-cube-anyway-whats-cubical&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mark Rosewater offered this explanation on his blog&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I believe the first cube was kept in a box that was a cube.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't call that explanation definitive, but a quick Google search demonstrates that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fantasystrike.com/forums/index.php?threads/mtg-cubes.8451/#post-258620&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;there are Magic players who would back up Rosewater's memory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T03:08:52.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29640" CreationDate="2016-04-24T04:00:39.660" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, you get out of the Jail if...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(2) &#xA;  using &#xA;  the &#xA;  &quot;Get &#xA;  Out &#xA;  of &#xA;  Jail &#xA;  Free&quot; &#xA;  card &#xA;  if &#xA;  you &#xA;  have &#xA;  it; &#xA;  (3) &#xA;  purchasing &#xA;  the &#xA;  &quot;Get &#xA;  Out &#xA;  of &#xA;  Jail &#xA;  Free&quot; &#xA;  card &#xA;  from another &#xA;  player and &#xA;  playing &#xA;  it; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the speed die:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Use &#xA;  the &#xA;  white &#xA;  dice &#xA;  ONLY &#xA;  when rolling &#xA;  to &#xA;  get &#xA;  out &#xA;  of &#xA;  jail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, if you play the &quot;get of of jail free&quot; card, you immediately get out of jail and you &lt;strong&gt;roll to move&lt;/strong&gt;, not to get out of the jail. Therefore, &lt;strong&gt;you do use your speed die&lt;/strong&gt;, as you're already out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nevertheless, if you roll to get out of jail and you roll doubles, you still do &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; use the speed die, even if you succeed. It's just that when rolling to get out of jail, if you roll doubles you use that result as your move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T04:00:39.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27714" CreationDate="2016-04-24T04:10:43.450" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you still suffer it. Clarified on the back of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/95485/english-rulebook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;60&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pension &#xA;  – This card costs 2 bad luck. If the player rolled &#xA;  3&#xA;  bad luck (causing misfortune and the loss of some card), &#xA;  the&#xA;  player can still use 2 of those bad lucks to buy this card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it's true that misfortune happens after buying cards but before adding them to your CV, which is a very weird phrasing indeed, you have to suffer it even if you had previously &quot;spent&quot; two bad luck faces for the pension. Spending dice doesn't mean that you never rolled them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T04:10:43.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11510" CreationDate="2016-04-24T05:13:50.717" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless a card specifically states otherwise you do exactly what is said on it. So in the case of &lt;em&gt;Drive Him Back&lt;/em&gt; you would move the affected monster forward from the forest to the archer ring on Phase 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16011" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T05:13:50.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29830" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15344" CreationDate="2016-04-24T06:25:18.367" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can try &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/turn-the-tides!/id928927394?ls=1&amp;amp;mt=8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn The Tides&lt;/a&gt; (I'm its developer) which has 24 different boards based on the idea of reversi. You also get to use powers and there are another 24 boards with hexagonal tiles as well. You can play offline(against the iphone) or online with real players via GameCenter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16016" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T06:25:18.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29668" CreationDate="2016-04-24T17:05:06.407" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;OGS has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://forums.online-go.com/c/teaching/reviews-requests&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;review requests section&lt;/a&gt;. I just got a great review there so I'd like to share the link.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T17:05:06.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29832" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29835" CreationDate="2016-04-24T19:16:07.460" Score="0" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm on my main phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast a 2/2 creature, and want to enchant it in the same phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast the creature - no counterspell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then want to cast a +3/+3 Aura enchantment on that creature, and then a second +2+2 enchantment on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent then casts Counterspell on my creature as his spell goes on the stack.  Are the enchantments also gone to the graveyard or were they not able to be cast in the first place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My way of seeing it was they couldn't have been cast because there was no creature to cast them on.  Otherwise, a counterspell basically counters three spells.  I sense I'm probably wrong but this seems broken.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16019" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T20:36:34.037" Title="Can a Counterspell basically counter more than one spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-04-25T02:22:33.873" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29833" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T20:17:38.217" Score="4" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am trying to identify this game from Houseki no Kuni, a buddhism-inspired manga.&#xA;My English is so poor I can't describe this game and &quot;google&quot; it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cbqam.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cbqam.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vfZG.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vfZG.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OaeA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OaeA.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16020" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T13:04:53.140" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T13:29:13.547" Title="What is the board game played in Houseki no Kuni?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-11-23T18:52:48.063" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29834" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29836" CreationDate="2016-04-24T20:28:44.220" Score="1" ViewCount="10820" Body="&lt;p&gt;The coworker relationship sticker states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Co workers: you may share knowledge as long as one if you is in the&#xA;  correct city. (The researcher may give any card to their co worker for&#xA;  one action)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is in regard to the researcher: &lt;strong&gt;If the researcher is given coworker status with another character, can the researcher give any card to their coworker from any city&lt;/strong&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if the scientist and the researcher are coworkers, and the researcher is currently in Milan and the scientist is in another city, can the researcher give the scientist the Tokyo card as an action on their turn? Could the researcher do this multiple times on their turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-12-16T15:11:00.553" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T15:11:00.553" Title="Researcher with the coworker relationship (spoilers)" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29832" CreationDate="2016-04-24T20:36:34.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This situation cannot happen as you have described it. In order to enchant a creature, the creature must already be on the battlefield. If your opponent wants to counter your creature, he must do so &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In casual games of Magic, you have to settle the confusion with your opponent and decide whether he meant to allow the creature to resolve. There are two possible outcomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your creature resolved, and your enchantment is on the stack waiting to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your creature is countered, and you did not cast your enchantment (yet).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In tournament games, the two outcomes are the same, but this time the rules say that your opponent gets to choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andy: I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grizzly%20Bears&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nathan: ...&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Andy: I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Oakenform&quot;&gt;Oakenform&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Grizzly Bears.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Nathan: When I get priority after you cast Grizzly Bears, I'll cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Counterspell&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;, targeting Grizzly Bears.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast two spells in succession without asking your opponent if the first one resolves, you are actually suggesting a shortcut. Your opponent can choose to take priority after either spell. Silence cannot be used as an indicator that the game has moved forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, Andy played sloppily by assuming that Grizzly Bears resolved. Nathan has the option to accept the shortcut, or deviate from it by responding to Grizzly Bears (which he did).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simply ask if your creature resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Andy: I cast Grizzly Bears. Does it resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll learn to recognize when it is important to do this. It may be seen as an annoyance if you are constantly asking &amp;quot;Does my spell resolve?&amp;quot; when your opponent is completely tapped out with no cards in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T20:36:34.037" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29836" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29834" CreationDate="2016-04-24T20:37:36.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the only restriction on the researcher giving cards is that they are in the same city if they get that relationship sticker they can give cards to the person they share it with at any time. This is a really useful combination that can be very powerful for the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example the researcher could to that and they can trade as many cards as they have actions with the co-worker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T20:37:36.927" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29837" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T20:48:10.790" Score="2" ViewCount="152" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a question about Go software, so it might not be the correct place to ask this, but I expect it to be the best place. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to give a group of people a quick overview on Go but I don't have the resources to obtain actual material, so I was looking for a basic sandbox program and that turned out more difficult than I expected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, a single-screen / hot-seat go client. Where one (or two players) could run a human-human go game on a single machine (Mac/Windows/both but preferably Mac)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16021" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T13:26:28.907" Title="Are there any single-screen human-vs-human go clients/programs available?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29838" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-24T20:53:41.553" Score="3" ViewCount="630" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Smash Up game, Ninjas have a poison action card. Will it have any effect on Warbot, who is a minion which cannot be destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poison - Play on a minion. Destroy any number of actions on it. Ongoing: This minion has -4 power. (Minions have minimum power of 0.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Warbot - power 4 - Ongoing: This minion cannot be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16022" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:16:01.023" Title="Can poison action card destroy Warbot?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13653" CreationDate="2016-04-24T22:34:04.390" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Instead of that, try running form of the Dragon instead. Because combat damage is dealt at the same time (unless a creature has first strike/double strike) you're life will just reset to five at the end of the turn. I run that combo in a lot of my white decks and it's always been extremely effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16023" LastActivityDate="2016-04-24T22:34:04.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29838" CreationDate="2016-04-25T01:28:47.250" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it can't destroy Warbot, but that's because it can't destroy minions in general. It can only destroy &lt;em&gt;actions&lt;/em&gt; attached to a minion, and Warbot doesn't prevent that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poison affects Warbot as any other minion because Warbot's ability has no effect on Poison's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Poison doesn't destroy minions.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warbot's ability doesn't prevent actions from being played.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warbot's ability doesn't prevent actions attached to the Warbot from being destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warbot's ability doesn't prevent the Warbot's power from being reduced.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T14:16:01.023" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:16:01.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29838" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:20:25.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Poison card does not destroy Warbot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Poison card does not destroy &lt;strong&gt;any&lt;/strong&gt; minion directly. Reducing a minions power to 0 does not destroy it.  It hangs around until an effect destroys it or the base that it is on scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T02:20:25.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29842" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29863" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:48:52.940" Score="2" ViewCount="259" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Sentinels of the Multiverse, the villain Apostate has a card called the &lt;em&gt;Orb of Delirium&lt;/em&gt;.  This card has 12hp, and it says: &quot;Whenever a Villain Relic other than this card would be dealt Damage, redirect that Damage to this card.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose that Apostate has the Orb in play and has three other relics.  Suppose that I use a power (for example, Tempest's area-of-effect attack) that deals 6 damage to each non-hero target.  Does this damage any relics other than the orb?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, do I do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to the orb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to relic 2, redirect damage to the orb, orb dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to relic 3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to relic 4&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or do I do this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to the orb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to relic 2, redirect damage to the orb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to relic 3, redirect damage to the orb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deal 6 damage to relic 4, redirect damage to the orb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the orb dies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any relics other than the orb do get damaged, do I get to choose which ones, or does it happen in a specific order?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastEditorUserId="13484" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T02:59:27.660" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T01:28:04.267" Title="How does the timing work on damage redirection?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29864" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:54:14.563" Score="3" ViewCount="278" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Sentinels of the Multiverse, the villain Gloomweaver has this power: &quot;Whenever a Cultist is destroyed, search the Villain trash for a Zombie card and put it into play.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose that I use a power that &quot;deals three damage to all non-hero targets&quot;.  If this power kills a Cultist and thus brings a Zombie into play, does the power also deal three damage to the Zombie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T01:34:32.353" Title="How does the timing work when area-of-effect damage creates new targets?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29842" CreationDate="2016-04-25T02:56:57.973" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It should be the former. I can't really think of any thing to use as proof except watching &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.twitch.tv/handelabragames&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the Twitch Stream&lt;/a&gt; where they play the digital version of Sentinels. Damage is resolved one card at a time. In your second example the only way that would occur is if all the artifacts were damaged at once. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead the artifacts should be damaged in order from first out the last out each time redirecting when possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T02:56:57.973" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29845" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25111" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:02:16.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Deal 1 target 1 melee damage and 1 fire damage&quot; OR you can split that damage up among multiple target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the record. I'm fairly certain a card with this reading would require one taget to recieve the melee and fire damage. You are not allowed to split it up into two targets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:02:16.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29838" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:08:36.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the Smash Up game, Ninjas have a poison action card. Will it have any effect on Warbot, who is a minion which cannot be destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will it have any effect. Yes. The effect will be to reduce the power to 0. However poison doesn't destoy the minion merely reduces it's power. To the Warbot will be a minon of 0 power. While most of the time this is an academic point there are cards that are affected by minion prescence. For instance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Count how many minions you have on a base. Destroy a minion with that power less than or equal to that number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this instance, the Warbot though it does not give any power, would still count as a minion. Plus the poison action can be removed restoring the Warbot to full power or the Warbot can have other actions placed on it that increase it's power to again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:08:36.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24419" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:12:10.730" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For my money the simple thumbsup system works with my group. You're welcome to tell the story and if someone contradicts or uses a card for a nonessential element you call an audible and stick out your hand thumbs down. You have about five seconds and then everyone else joins in thumbs up or thumbs down. Majority rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rest of the time if the story teller is rambling you can just stick out your hand thumbs down and as they go if more people join your thumbs down and it reaches majority then you lose and the story passes on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:12:10.730" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29815" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:16:42.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bgV9W.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bgV9W.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Mask Card from Betrayal&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xE0xl.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xE0xl.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;The Holy Symbol&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it's true it doesn't cover the &quot;stolen&quot; scenario in the text on the card unlike other item omen cards like The Holy Symbol. And it's not in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/downloads/ah/FAQ_BHotH_102605-2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Errata&lt;/a&gt;. There are &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/15938791#15938791&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;others like me&lt;/a&gt; who believe that if it's removed for any reason (theft included) then it's the same as taking it off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T03:16:42.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29843" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:24:43.843" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cards are resolved in order. So for instance in this scenario if you deal your damage you might look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gloomweaver 3 damage (Because he's the first card that came out) &lt;em&gt;&amp;lt;-- not actually true, damage is dealt in player's choice order&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Environment Card (Because something has been sticking around)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Villain Card (Dead; Add Zombie)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Villain Card (3 Damage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;New Zombie (3 Damage) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes you would do that damage to the zombie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T00:27:37.090" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:27:37.090" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29811" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:34:08.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might get better answers from Tom Vasel of Dice Tower fame. He does weekly &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZFrxcICqn0&amp;amp;list=PLOlRvTbmD6tLlF0mk6nvy9vZt4M7Gy-Yg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;live Q&amp;amp;As&lt;/a&gt; on his &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiwBbXQlljGjKtKhcdMliRA&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;youtube channel&lt;/a&gt;. I even feel certain he's talked about it on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXXOB3QIVwM&amp;amp;list=PLOlRvTbmD6tInr4zwf1huyd5dBdR4kKSD&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Breakfast&lt;/a&gt; at one point. You might be able to go through the titles and find one that looks like it might be related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long and the short of it was that different publishers do different system. There are some designers who are basically linked to a specific publisher. Other designers are more free to design for whomever they're up to design for. There are presumably pros and cons to each system. All of the examples in my head are mixed up. I wanted to say &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Y7txCXIEo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eric Lang&lt;/a&gt; was a one publisher guy but I'm not certain that's true. And honestly I can't remember the names of a lot of the European guys whose situations I do remember better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="1885" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T19:55:09.160" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:55:09.160" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29851" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25484" CreationDate="2016-04-25T03:47:42.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Rulebook&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DeCf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3DeCf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Rulebook Clip&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You will need the &lt;strong&gt;6 main chambers&lt;/strong&gt; and the &lt;strong&gt;13 basic chambers&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;(that is, all the chambers without the purple mask and/or treasure icon)&lt;/strong&gt;. Set aside the &lt;strong&gt;starting chamber&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;exit&lt;/strong&gt;. Mix the &lt;strong&gt;remaining chamber tiles&lt;/strong&gt; face down, then stack them as a draw pile. Place the starting chamber in the center of the playing area, then place 2 randomly drawn chamber tiles next to it, as shown in the illustration below. Finally, take the top 4 tiles of the &lt;strong&gt;draw pile&lt;/strong&gt;, shuffle them together with the exit tile, then place them on the bottom of the draw pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exception:&lt;/strong&gt; If you are playing alone or with a second player, insert the exit tile in the middle of the draw pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the rather loose and light nature of the game. I don't expect that the instruction was meant to be literal. But if you need a ruling I would remove half the pile. Place the Exit Tile and then call that done. So with 15 tile. Remove 8 tiles (7.5 rounded up) place the exit tile and then now you have two piles. 8 regular and 8 including the exit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T04:00:18.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29852" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:28:34.420" Score="8" ViewCount="3045" Body="&lt;p&gt;So a friend of mine has a card with the ability &quot;Name a card. Cards that share a name with that card cannot be played.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is does this work on tokens? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a zombie token deck mainly, and this would cause a big hiccup to my ability to win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16026" LastEditorUserId="5048" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T15:19:18.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T16:56:45.790" Title="Does &quot;cards with the same name can't be played&quot; affect tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29853" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29852" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:31:57.810" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The name of the token is &amp;quot;zombie&amp;quot;, but it isn't a card that can be named, and you can still generate zombie tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards do care about the name of tokens (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Declaration%20in%20Stone&quot;&gt;Declaration in Stone&lt;/a&gt;) and those cards would hit all zombie tokens you have in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Relevant rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.5&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects put tokens onto the battlefield. A token is a marker used to represent any permanent that isn’t represented by a card.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;110.5c&lt;/strong&gt; A spell or ability that creates a token sets both its name and its subtype. If the spell or ability doesn’t specify the name of the token, its name is the same as its subtype(s). A “Goblin Scout creature token,” for example, is named “Goblin Scout” and has the creature subtypes Goblin and Scout. Once a token is on the battlefield, changing its name doesn’t change its subtype, and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:31:57.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29852" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:34:05.043" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No they cannot name 'Zombie', when instructed to name a card they must do exactly that 'Zombie' is not the name of a card, it is a creature type and the name of a token. Also even if they could name 'Zombie' (or say you had a way to create &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Zombie%20Assassin&quot;&gt;Zombie Assassin&lt;/a&gt; tokens) it still wouldn't matter because playing a card means casting it if it is not a land and when you create tokens they aren't being cast, a spell or ability is just putting them onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;201.3.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect instructs a player to name a card, the player must choose the name of a card that exists in the Oracle card reference (see rule 108.1) and is legal in the format of the game the player is playing. (See rule 100.6.) If the player wants to name a split card, the player must choose the name of one of its halves, but not both. (See rule 708.) If the player wants to name a flip card’s alternative name, the player may do so. (See rule 709.) If the player wants to name the back face of a double-faced card, the player may do so. (See rule 711.) A player may not choose the name of a token unless it’s also the name of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T13:34:05.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29852" CreationDate="2016-04-25T13:49:36.423" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can I &amp;quot;play&amp;quot; a token?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. You can still produce zombie tokens even if you are not allowed to &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt; Zombie. &amp;quot;Play&amp;quot; has a very specific meaning in Magic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.11b To play a card means to play that card as a land or to cast that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;When instructed to name a card, can I name a token instead?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It depends. If a token has the same name as a card, then you can name it. Here are a few examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Pack%20Rat&quot;&gt;Pack Rat&lt;/a&gt; creates tokens that are also named Pack Rat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Meloku%20the%20Clouded%20Mirror&quot;&gt;Meloku the Clouded Mirror&lt;/a&gt; creates Illusion tokens, but &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Illusion&quot;&gt;Illusion&lt;/a&gt; is also the name of a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Zombie is not currently the name of a card, and so Zombie is not a legal choice when instructed to name a card. However, if Zombie were printed as a card in the future, then it would be a legal choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.3. If an effect instructs a player to name a card, the player must choose the name of a card that exists in the Oracle card reference (see rule 108.1) and is legal in the format of the game the player is playing. (See rule 100.6.) If the player wants to name a split card, the player must choose the name of one of its halves, but not both. (See rule 708.) If the player wants to name a flip card’s alternative name, the player may do so. (See rule 709.) If the player wants to name the back face of a double-faced card, the player may do so. (See rule 711.) A player may not choose the name of a token unless it’s also the name of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T17:10:51.960" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T17:10:51.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29102" CreationDate="2016-04-25T14:52:44.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot attack Operations. They are not part of your unit and only reside in one of 3 reserve slots which hold only Traps or Operations. Neither can be directly attacked as they have no attack or health.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, some cards can increase or decrease the amount of timers on various Operations. In this way, you can lengthen or reduce the time an Operation is in play even though it cannot be removed directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3253" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T14:52:44.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2016-04-25T16:53:31.217" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;10creatures, 24 land,10 spells, 10 artifacts 6, of anything &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16028" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T16:53:31.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29858" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29852" CreationDate="2016-04-25T17:05:43.747" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, such a card can never directly affect tokens.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Conjurer%20Ban&quot;&gt;Conjurer Ban&lt;/a&gt; require your opponent to name a &lt;em&gt;card&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;201.3. If an effect instructs a player to name a card, the player must choose the name of a card that exists in the Oracle card reference (see rule 108.1) and is legal in the format of the game the player is playing. (See rule 100.6.) [..] A player may not choose the name of a token unless it’s also the name of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens are not cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;108.2. When a rule or text on a card refers to a “card,” it means only a Magic card. [..]Tokens aren’t considered cards—even a card that represents a token isn’t considered a card for rules purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if your opponent named a card that also happens to be a token you want to bring into play somehow, you would still not be prevented from doing so, because &amp;quot;playing&amp;quot; a card has a specific meaning:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.1a Some effects still refer to “playing” a card. “Playing a card” means playing that card as a land or casting that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens are never played, they always enter the battlefield indirectly because of another spell or ability. Of course, your opponent could name the card that created the tokens. If he, for example, named &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Army%20of%20the%20Damned&quot;&gt;Army of the Damned&lt;/a&gt;, you wouldn't be allowed to play that card, and thus would indirectly prevent your Zombie tokens. However, you could still play any other card that also creates Zombie tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T17:05:43.747" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29859" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-25T21:23:30.860" Score="0" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was playing with some friends and we ran into a problem. My opponent had a creature with both hexproof and indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I drew and played &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383351&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Polymorphist's Jest&lt;/a&gt;. I then attacked with my creature, which had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Voidwalk&quot;&gt;Voidwalk&lt;/a&gt; encoded on it. It wasn't blocked, so I cast Voidwalk with his currently blue frog creature as the target and exiled it. Now, I know exiled tokens immediately die or cease to exist, but what would happen to his creature? Would it return or simply be gone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16031" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T22:16:16.763" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:16:16.763" Title="What happens when a non-token creature loses all abilities, is exiled, then returns?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29859" CreationDate="2016-04-25T21:51:50.243" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383351&quot;&gt;Polymorphist's Jest&lt;/a&gt; does &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; create tokens, it only changes the stats and characteristics of the creature's controlled by the targeted player. It is still the same game object as far as Magic is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the circumstances presented in your question, your opponent's creature would be 'flickered' (magic slang for exiled and then returned to the battlefield) and when it returned it wouldn't be a 1/1 frog anymore, it would be whatever the face up of whatever card was returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T22:00:04.467" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:00:04.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5211" CreationDate="2016-04-25T22:13:35.383" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I mostly agree with the accepted answer, but i think the numbers are a little off. so i will try to be concise:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;15-18 creatures is average, and the best answer for draft with no other information.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;14 creatures is the absolute lower limit without a good reason&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;11-13 is the range for decks that are built that way, ex. tempo, prowess, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;lt;10 are rarer special cases decks ex. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rise%20from%20the%20Tides&quot;&gt;Rise from the Tides&lt;/a&gt; decks in SOI draft can run ~5 actual creatures (n.b. normally spells that create token are counted as creatures)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&amp;gt;18 creatures is also a rare special case, in older core sets 20-22 creature decks could be extremely viable.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="12678" LastEditDate="2016-04-25T22:33:03.850" LastActivityDate="2016-04-25T22:33:03.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29862" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29813" CreationDate="2016-04-26T00:44:14.147" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With six unique Mysteries, and a host of Epic Monsters, Yig will prove a challenging adversary to even the most courageous and cunning of Investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Investigators can now uncover new arcane mysteries unique to each Ancient One with the Forsaken Lore expansion&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leiZV.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/leiZV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2014/2/10/forsaken-lore/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight's Site news/2014/11/7/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flight Games is proud to announce Forsaken Lore, an expansion for Eldritch Horror. Forsaken Lore adds over two hundred new cards to Eldritch Horror, including over one hundred new Encounter cards, twenty-four condition cards, and fourteen new mysteries.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yig enters the game with six unique mysteries, and your Investigators will need to gather all of their strength and cunning to keep Yig from entering our world. Break the power of the Serpent Crown over the will of the people, and defeat the Winged Serpent Epic Monster in order to world safe once more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2014/2/10/forsaken-lore/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fantasy Flight news/2014/2/10/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ok so There are 14 new mysteries, 6 for the new AOO &lt;strong&gt;Yig&lt;/strong&gt; and 2 each for the four original AOO. Hopefully this will motivate an owner to come back with further details. I'm not sure but I think the one that you can read in my picture is for Yig.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't see anything myself but your best bet is probably the &lt;a href=&quot;http://eldritchhorrorgame.wikia.com/wiki/Eldritch_Horror_Wiki&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wiki&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T00:44:14.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29842" CreationDate="2016-04-26T01:28:04.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a case like this you would chose the order that the damage happened one card at a time. If your goal was to destroy as many of the relics as possible you would do the damage something like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 damage to the orb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 damage to the relic you don't want destroyed this redirects to the orb destroying it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 damage to the next relic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 damage to the next relic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By remembering that each time you do damage it is considered separately, and if a response happens because of that damage then it takes place before the next damage from the original source is done. This is something that is important to remember and doing it all in the correct order can be the difference between winning and losing a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that needs to be done in the order they came out is the start/end of turn effects on a card. Such as the what happens during the villain/environment turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T01:28:04.267" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29843" CreationDate="2016-04-26T01:34:32.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it would do damage to the zombie. The reason for this is that in a case like this when a card is damaged/destroyed if it or another card has a reaction in response to this resolution on the current card stops until the second card is finished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would happen is 3 damage is done to the cultist killing it. This triggers the ability that adds a zombie into the field of play pausing the ability that does 3 damage to all non hero targets until the zombie is in play. Once the ability that is doing the damage resumes there will be another target in play for it to damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is important for a similar situation with ae damage and a card like the sonic mine that damages hero cards and prevents them from doing damage. When it dies it will prevent the rest of the AE damage from happening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T01:34:32.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29866" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29644" CreationDate="2016-04-26T05:59:04.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expansions consist of a variety of components which may or may not be used according to the current scenario. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We include all standard components from each expansion in every game. This means all of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-sideboard locations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mythos cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playable characters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Preludes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expeditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unique Assets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artifacts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Conditions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Great Old Ones&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Monsters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Epic monsters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus/Clue/Health tokens etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding clue tokens or gates that are for a side-board not in play, we leave them in the game and if one is drawn, simply draw another. I find that is easier than sorting them out but do as you wish in that regard. If you do wish to remove a specific expansion, the cards have a small indicator on the front side of which expansion they are from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sideboards come into play in one of two ways: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a GOO is chosen that requires the use of that board, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When a prelude is chosen that requires the use of that board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mysterious Ruins are the same as sideboards. The are present when playing against the Syzygy GOO, or when drawing/choosing the Cosmic Alignment prelude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that generally you will only have one of the sideboard/ruins used during a given game, and then you will include cards specific to the locations on that board, or the mystic ruins deck (from now on, when I say sideboards, include the mystic ruins deck as it is bought in to play in the same manner)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It also means however that multiple sideboards may be used when playing against a GOO that requires one sideboard, and starting with a prelude that requires the other sideboard. For instance one could choose to combat The Elder Things from the &lt;strong&gt;Mountains of Madness&lt;/strong&gt; expansion, while drawing the Museum Heist prelude from &lt;strong&gt;Under the Pyramids&lt;/strong&gt;. There is no official statement regarding extra rules here as far as I am aware. I have not tried it but I suspect for small player counts you would find it difficult to cover all the ground. If you want to make it easier than you could use the variant reference cards mentioned &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/29715&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no official way to play with both sideboards and ruins, however you could do so by allowing two preludes concurrently, eg: GOO = Nephren-Ka, Prelude1 = Antarctica, Prelude2 = Cosmic Alignment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16035" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T05:59:04.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29869" CreationDate="2016-04-26T10:42:40.363" Score="6" ViewCount="9837" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am reading the &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MoWwJ.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules of Risk&lt;/a&gt;, and at the top of the second column (in &lt;code&gt;3. Exchanging Territory Cards&lt;/code&gt;) it says that &quot;if you hold 5 or more cards, you MUST exchange one or more sets on your turn&quot;. A &quot;set&quot; has been explained to be 3 cards with the same insignia, where a wild card can be used as any of the 3 insignias.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If for example I had these 5 cards - Infantry, Infantry, Artillery, Artilley, Cavalry - then I do not have a set of any insignias, but am forced to swap a set as I have 5 cards. The same could occur if I had 6 cards, 2 of each insignia and no wild cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where am I going wrong in understanding this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15773" LastActivityDate="2019-01-10T01:55:36.213" Title="Question regarding exchanging territory cards in Risk" Tags="|risk|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29867" CreationDate="2016-04-26T10:53:01.683" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just realised that a set can also be 1 of each of the Insignias&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15773" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T10:53:01.683" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29869" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29867" CreationDate="2016-04-26T11:46:58.407" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;As per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/risk.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; (1993 standard Risk) on page 7 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are trying to collect sets of 3 cards in any of the following combinations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 cards of same design (Infantry, Cavalry, or Artillery)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1 each of 3 designs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;any 2 plus a “wild” card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is verified in the rules you posted:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A set is made up of 3 cards with the same Insignia..., OR 3 cards with one of each of the 3 Insignia...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where you have &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Infantry, Infantry, Artillery, Artillery, Cavalry&lt;/em&gt;,&amp;quot; you will trade in &amp;quot;&lt;em&gt;Infantry, Artillery, Cavalry&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; as a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T11:46:58.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29870" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:00:11.453" Score="3" ViewCount="1156" Body="&lt;p&gt;Will &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Karlov%20of%20the%20Ghost%20Council&quot;&gt;Karlov of the Ghost Council&lt;/a&gt; gain its counters if I use extort right after playing it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.: I play him, then I use extort because I played him, will it gain its counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16041" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T12:16:28.230" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:51:01.220" Title="Karlov of the Ghost Council and Extort" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29811" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:19:38.350" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's publishers who only have in-house staff, there's ones who farm projects out to freelancers, and there's ones who buy games off designers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some companies only use one of these models. Some companies use two or all three of these models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Buying Games from Designers:&lt;/strong&gt; Richard Garfield went to Wizards of the Coast to try and sell them a complete game he'd made called Robo Rally.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Freelancing:&lt;/strong&gt; Wizards of the Coast said they were looking for a card game people could play between events at conventions, and if he could come up with one they liked they would buy Robo Rally as well. He came up with Magic: The Gathering.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In-house staff:&lt;/strong&gt; Richard Garfield was eventually hired by Wizards of the Coast and later came up with Netrunner while employed by them.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there's one person, who has designed games published by one company, under all three models.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16042" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T18:17:34.293" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T18:17:34.293" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29870" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:22:17.777" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Karlov will not gain counters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extort will resolve before Karlov. When you gain life from Extort, Karlov will not be on the battlefield yet, and his ability only works while on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.100a Extort is a triggered ability. “Extort” means “Whenever you cast a spell, you may pay {W/B}. If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain life equal to the total life lost this way.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order of play is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Karlov, it goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because of the completed cast of Karlov, Extort triggers. It goes on the stack on top of Karlov.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extort resolves first because it is the top-most item on the stack. You decide to pay the costs, and you gain life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Karlov resolves and enters the battlefield. His triggered ability starts listening for life-gain events.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-04-26T12:28:38.547" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T12:28:38.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29870" CreationDate="2016-04-26T12:25:58.467" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, he will not gain counters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2016/docs/MagicCompRules_04082016.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.100. Extort&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.100a &lt;strong&gt;Extort is a triggered ability&lt;/strong&gt;. “Extort” means “Whenever you cast a spell, you may pay {W/B}. If you do, each opponent loses 1 life and you gain life equal to the total life lost this way.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.100b If a permanent has multiple instances of extort, each triggers separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Extort is an ability that triggers when a spell is cast, in this case Karlov, it will go on the stack above Karlov; it will resolve before he enters the battlefield. The order would look like this, assuming nothing else happens on the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Karlov&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extort triggers, adding it to the stack, and you decide to pay W or B&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you pay, each opponent will lose life while you gain the life lost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Karlov enters the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, Karlov will enter the battlefield after Extort resolves, so he will not gain counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T17:51:01.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29813" CreationDate="2016-04-26T13:49:48.280" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Azathoth&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Voice of Azathoth&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When an investigator would gain an Artifact, he may gain the Massa di Requiem per Shuggay Artifact instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the Mythos Phase, an investigator may spend Clues equal to &lt;code&gt;[Number of Players]&lt;/code&gt; and discard the Massa di requiem per Shuggay Artifact to solve this Mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Green Flame&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When this card enters play, spawn the Tulzscha Epic Monster on a random space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of Mythos Phase, if the Tulzscha Epic Monster has been defeated, solve this mystery.&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Additional info: At each reckoning, Tulzscha adds 1 Eldritch token to the omen track.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cthulhu&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Queen of the Deep Ones&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When this card enters play, spawn the Hydra Epic Monster on space 8.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an investigator would gain an Artifact, he may gain the Sword of Y'ha-Talla Artifact instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of Mythos Phase, if the Hydra Epic Monster has been defeated, solve this mystery.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Additional info: Hydra can't be damaged without the Sword of Y'ha-Talla.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Threatening Seas&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When this card enters play, each investigator places 1 Eldritch token on the nearest Sea space that does not contain an Eldritch token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As an encounter, an investigator on a space containing an Eldritch token may attempt to prolong Cthulhu's slumber (&lt;code&gt;[Lore]&lt;/code&gt;-1). If he passes, he may spend 1 Clue and discard 1 Spell to place that Eldritch token on this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the Mythos Phase, if there are Eldritch tokens on this card equal to &lt;code&gt;[Number of Players]&lt;/code&gt;, solve this Mystery. Do not discard the Eldritch tokens from the game board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yog-Sothoth&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Stone Circles&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When this card enters play, place a number of Eldritch tokens equal to half &lt;code&gt;[Number of Players]&lt;/code&gt; each on a random space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As an encounter, an investigator on a space containing an Eldritch token may attempt to disrupt the ritual (&lt;code&gt;[Lore]&lt;/code&gt;-1). If he passes, he may spend 2 Clues to place that Eldritch token on this card. If he fails, a Cultist Monster ambushes him!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the Mythos Phase, if there are Eldritch tokens on this card equal to half &lt;code&gt;[Number of Players]&lt;/code&gt;, solve this Mystery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Void Between Worlds&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  As an encounter, an investigator on a space containing a Gate may travel to the void between worlds by drawing and resolving a Void Between Worlds Special Encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the Mythos Phase, if there are Eldritch tokens on this card equal to half &lt;code&gt;[Number of Players]&lt;/code&gt;, solve this Mystery.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Additional info: These encounters are a harder version of Other World encounters. A successful encounter allows to both close the gate and put an eldritch token on the Mystery.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Shub-Niggurath&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Blasphemy of the Black Goat&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When this card enters play, spawn the Yeb Epic Monster on space 19.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of Mythos Phase, if the Yeb Epic Monster has been defeated, solve this mystery.&#xA;  &lt;em&gt;Additional info: When spawned, Yeb spawns 2 additional monsters on it's space.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hour of the Moon Lens&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  When this card enters play, place the Mystery token in London.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As an encounter, an investigator on London may watch a ritual that transforms the worshipers of Shub-Niggurath into goat spawn; a Goat Spawn Monster ambushes him! If he defeats it, he may spend 2 Clues to place 1 Eldritch token on this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the Mythos Phase, if there are Eldritch tokens on this card equal to half &lt;code&gt;[Number of Players]&lt;/code&gt;, solve this Mystery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T17:17:55.610" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T17:17:55.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29875" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29925" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:27:40.450" Score="2" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't mind playing in a seven card fit with say, AKxx opposite Qxx. There is a danger that I'll lose control because of the shortness of the suit, but having three top tricks and a chance at a long or ruffing trick for the fourth small trump represents compensation. On the other hand, I do mind playing with say, Qxxx opposite Jxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other issue is that while 26 points is ordinarily enough to make a major suit game with eight trumps, it requires 28-29 with only seven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if there is likely to be a seven card suit, e.g. when an opener raises a major suit opposite a responding &quot;one over one&quot; bid or negative double with four cards, how do bidders deal with this issue? My understanding, for instance, is that openers will need Qxx or better to raise, not just xxx. Do the bidders make other adjustments to assure two or three top honors in suit between them? And what about the higher point requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or is one factor in the unpopularity of seven card fits due to the fact that there are &quot;few&quot; established bidding methods for them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T20:39:02.050" Title="What adjustments do good bidders make for seven card fits?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29876" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24419" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:28:21.140" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This highly depends on your playgroup composition and style:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my usual gaming group (2-8 adults looking for light, social gaming with only a minor interest in who actually wins), we use a basic &lt;strong&gt;majority voting&lt;/strong&gt; like Wolfkin described - when someone thinks a turn should end, he says so, and everyone quickly nods / raises a hand / mumbles 'uh-ha' or 'naaa' etc. Anything that's quick enough so it doesn't slow the flow of the game. It's also quite common for the &lt;strong&gt;storyteller to voluntary end their own turn&lt;/strong&gt; when they get stuck etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, the group that introduced the game to me had several very competitive players, and there another limitation was required - &lt;strong&gt;the player to the left of the storyteller can't raise objections&lt;/strong&gt; (i.e. the one who'll become storyteller next if the vote to end the turn passes) - This was necessary to prevent some players from raising an objection every second sentence...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, when playing with my younger relatives (a group of 2-4 young children and 1-3 adults), we usually have &lt;strong&gt;one of the adults double as a referee&lt;/strong&gt; - leaving it to him to call for turn changes, optionally raising it to a vote.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As RM Bee said, this game doesn't really work that well when played too competitively or seriously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T14:28:21.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29877" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-26T14:51:18.500" Score="3" ViewCount="374" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is related to the 7th edition core rules and Codex Tyranids 6th edition:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Codex has a &quot;designer note&quot; in the Melee Weapons section stating:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tyranid Melee weapons come as pairs. For game purposes, each pair is treated as a single Melee weapon. This means that &lt;strong&gt;Tyranid models must fight with two pairs of any Tyranid Melee weapons to gain a bonus Attack in close combat for fighting with two weapons&lt;/strong&gt;.&#xA;  [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(&lt;strong&gt;emphasis&lt;/strong&gt; mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Venomthrope model has 4 lash-whips, which seems to indicate it should get the bonus attack for multiple weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, the army list entry for Venomthrope simply states he has &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Lash-whips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Toxic miasma&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike the Ravener entry, for example, which specifically states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Two pairs of scything talons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, does the Venomthrope gains the bonus attack? Given its base Attack attribute of 2, how many melee attacks can it make in a 'normal' assault phase (disregarding charge etc.)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If possible, please support your answer with the relevant rules reference.&#xA;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Updated note: as there are contradicting answers at the moment, I'm waiting to see some more up-votes or support from the rules before accepting any of them (both make sense IMO, but reach different conclusions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastEditorUserId="7963" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T13:30:31.327" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T13:30:31.327" Title="Does a Venomthrope gets an extra attack for using multiple weapons?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29877" CreationDate="2016-04-26T19:25:02.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You've answered your own question. If the entry for them listed 2 pairs of lash whips, then you would indeed get an extra attack (per the Tyranid paired melee rule). Since it doesn't you don't get any. So 2 attacks, 3 on the charge, barring some other circumstance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-04-26T19:25:02.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29879" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29883" CreationDate="2016-04-26T22:41:40.787" Score="4" ViewCount="830" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm south. I have:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;♠️ A 10 5  &#xA;♥️ A  &#xA;♦️ A K Q J 8  &#xA;♣️ A Q 10 8   &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;East opened the bidding with 3♥️.&#xA;What should I bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16048" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T03:34:11.140" LastActivityDate="2017-11-19T17:50:52.580" Title="Bidding a high point Bridge hand" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29881" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:09:14.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Under the Pyramids&lt;/em&gt; is the second big-box expansion to Eldritch Horror, focusing on the mysteries of Giza Egypt. It was released in 2015 by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T02:58:40.483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T02:58:40.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29882" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-04-27T01:09:14.350" Score="0" Body="The second big-box expansion to Eldritch Horror, focusing on the mysteries of Giza Egypt" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T02:58:53.110" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T02:58:53.110" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29879" CreationDate="2016-04-27T02:24:49.103" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typically, with any strong hand (something like 17+) you should begin with a takeout double (if it's available &amp;mdash; see below). In this case, your hand is even stronger than that, so you should probably cue bid hearts after almost any bid by partner:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after 3S, 4C, or 4D, you have enough to insist on game with very little from partner, so cue bid 4H to force to game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after a jump to a suit game (4S, 5C, or 5D), partner is showing something like 10+, so you almost certainly have slam and may have a grand. After 4S, you can bid 4NT to start asking about partner's kings. After 5C or 5D, you can cue bid 5H to force a slam and start exploring for grand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after 3NT, you might just bid 7NT, as it's likely that you have 13 top tricks and it's difficult to imagine having a good constructive auction without strong agreements with partner.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;TimLymington points out in the comments that you may have agreed that double here is for penalty. I had not considered this, as I play in the U.S., where the overwhelming majority of pairs play doubles as takeout at least through 4D and often higher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If double would be for penalty, I recommend doubling and continuing as above except at unfavorable vulnerability. Game for your side is almost certain and slam is a possibility, but it seems difficult to explore for slam when X is not takeout. I expect to beat the opponents by 3 tricks (they'll likely get 6 trump tricks and nothing else), so I'm happy defending when at favorable or equal vulnerability, but the 500 we'll get at unfavorable doesn't compensate us for the 600+ we expect from making our own contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In that case, I recommend bidding 3NT, which is a small gamble, but requires very little from partner (the club K guarantees the contract, as does the diamond ten with the spade K, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T10:40:29.423" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T10:40:29.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29982" CreationDate="2016-04-27T02:36:13.567" Score="2" ViewCount="458" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this mission, the Rebel characters are tasked with disarming explosives that are around the map. The Mission Briefing has a special rule: &quot;If the character is Fenn Signis or within 3 squares of Fenn,&quot; they can disarm the explosives and use them to help destroy an AT-ST that is also in this mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is that should we take in to account walls (black lines on the tiles) when calculating whether or not we are 3 squares away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T17:40:56.690" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:40:56.690" Title="Brushfire Side Mission - Counting Distance through walls" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29885" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T10:10:41.373" Score="4" ViewCount="27482" Body="&lt;p&gt;This game can be played by 4 or 6 people. &#xA;with 6 people you take out all 2. &#xA;10 points are associated with each of the face cards(A,K,Q,J and 10) , and 3 of Spades has 30 points associated with it making it a trump card. And 5 has 5 points. Everything else has no value. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players wage their scores depending on how good their cards are (maximum is 250), and player with the highest wager ask for a partner with a specific card and creates trump suit(pick a color of cards which has higher value to take hands). Partner then assists the player reach the target points, either openly or secretly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to know the official name of this game. Is there any game named &#xA;'&lt;strong&gt;Three of Spades&lt;/strong&gt;'?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16049" LastEditorUserId="16049" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T06:43:45.323" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T06:43:45.323" Title="What is the official name of this game? In India, it is called kaali teeri (3 of Spades)" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29886" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:00:28.810" Score="6" ViewCount="5738" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=410025&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Murderer's Axe&lt;/a&gt; has an equip cost: discard a card, and since madness runs off discarding, this can be rather useful.&#xA;Can an equipment card be re-equipped to the same creature that already has it equipped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15970" LastEditorUserId="15970" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T15:10:39.213" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:29:24.910" Title="Can you re-equip equipment to the same creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29886" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:06:32.127" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since there is no restriction (other than control) based on the wording of &quot;equip&quot;, I'd say yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.6a&lt;/strong&gt; Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:06:32.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29888" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29886" CreationDate="2016-04-27T13:09:10.023" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can choose the currently equipped creature to target with the equip ability since it doesn't require the target to be a different creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if you have other cards that care about things becoming (un)equipped or (un)attached they will not trigger since the equipment never actually stops being equipped, and it doesn't gain a new timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.6a&lt;/strong&gt; Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. “Equip [cost]” means “[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T13:46:39.247" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T13:46:39.247" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29889" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T15:50:53.323" Score="3" ViewCount="9012" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens when a player copies an opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Time%20Stretch&quot;&gt;Time Stretch&lt;/a&gt;? Does the copyer take two extra turns then the owner? Does the owner even take two extra turns? What about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Part%20the%20Waterveil&quot;&gt;Part the Waterveil&lt;/a&gt;? These spells say take X extra turns &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; this one, so my playgroup is confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15951" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T06:22:48.317" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T06:22:48.317" Title="Who takes extra turns first when I copy someone else's &quot;take an extra turn&quot; card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29889" CreationDate="2016-04-27T16:05:44.687" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The player who cast the spell that creates extra turns will take their extra turn(s), and then the player who copied the spell will take their extra turn(s).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;500.7. Some effects can give a player extra turns. They do this by adding the turns directly after the current turn. If a player gets multiple extra turns or if multiple players get extra turns during a single turn, the extra turns are added one at a time. &lt;strong&gt;The most recently created turn will be taken first.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order in which the spells resolve will determine the order of the extra turns. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A casts Time Stretch targeting themself, adding it to the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B copies it using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reiterate&quot;&gt;Reiterate&lt;/a&gt;, adding a copy of Time Stretch targeting themself to the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player B's Time Stretch will resolve, giving them two extra turns after the current turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A's Time Stretch will resolve, giving them two extra turns after the current turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A's extra turns are created after Player B's, so they will get the next two turns because are the most recent extra turns. The new turns will be taken in the order {A, A, B, B}. Then the game will return to normal turn order, which assuming it was Player A's turn when Time Stretch was cast, will belong to Player B. From the point of the Time Stretch, the next set of turns will look like {A, A, B, B, B, A, B, A...}. Note that nothing in this prevents the original caster from taking additional turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T11:50:26.970" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T11:50:26.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29891" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29893" CreationDate="2016-04-27T17:53:50.190" Score="4" ViewCount="1572" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I have a red blue &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Guttersnipe&quot;&gt;Guttersnipe&lt;/a&gt; deck that I personally love to use, but my friend and I keep running into this situation. In my hand for the purpose of explaining this say I have all &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;s and a Guttersnipe on the field. All he has available is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swift%20Silence&quot;&gt;Swift Silence&lt;/a&gt;. Now since I know that he runs Swift Silence I will only play 1 lightning bolt in the ending phase before passing off priority. My friend will then also pass priority because he wants to stop the full combo with the Swift Silence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So what happens?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since he passed priority, Guttersnipe's ability which is on top of the&#xA;stack will resolve but the Lightning Bolt won't. So when I play another Lightning Bolt on the stack he can than use Swift Silence to counter both Lightning Bolts and Guttersnipe's ability?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guttersnipe's ability resolves, I pass, then he passes again so the Lightning Bolt would resolve. I can than play another Lightning Bolt on top of the empty stack and start the loop over?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When we let both Guttersnipe's ability and Lightning Bolt resolve since it is a empty stack would my turn then be over since I was doing this on my end step?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if I can just keep playing stuff using this loop what would Swift Silence ever be useful for other than say a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grapeshot&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16057" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T18:00:03.273" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T03:12:09.127" Title="What is the use of Swift Silence?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29891" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:02:56.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the advantage, since your third point is incorrect.  When the stack is empty, if both players pass priority, then the phase ends. So, what you do is let Guttersnipe and the Bolt both resolve, then cast another one when you get priority again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;500.2.&lt;/strong&gt; A phase or step in which players receive priority ends when the stack is empty and all players pass in succession. Simply having the stack become empty doesn’t cause such a phase or step to end; all players have to pass in succession with the stack empty. Because of this, each player gets a chance to add new things to the stack before that phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One other issue with your scenario is that Swift Silence doesn't counter Guttersnipe's triggered ability. That's an ability, not a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-04-27T18:38:48.623" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:38:48.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29891" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:10:39.563" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming you play your Bolts right your opponent can counter at most 1 of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have priority, you cast Bolt, Guttersnipe triggers, you have priority again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority, your opponent gains priority and can cast their counter if they want to, eventually they also pass priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guttersnipes ability resolves, you gain priority, you pass priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent gains priority, again they can choose to cast their counter, eventually they pass priority back to you&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;As long as it wasn't countered your Bolt resolves. You gain priority after it resolves and can cast another Bolt if you want to.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If at anytime your opponent casts their counter the following is added to the previous steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They have priority, they cast their counter spell, they still have priority and pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You gain priority, at this point you can choose to cast more spells if you want to, eventually you will pass priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The counter spell will resolve, your Bolt will be countered, you gain priority and can cast more Bolts if you want to&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A step or phase doesn't end until both you and your opponent have passed priority and the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you point out Swift Silence is best against Storm decks, and other decks that have multiple spells on the stack at the same time (like Hive Mind)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3b&lt;/strong&gt; The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3c&lt;/strong&gt; If a player has priority when he or she casts a spell, activates an ability, or takes a special action, that player receives priority afterward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3d&lt;/strong&gt; If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T03:12:09.127" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29891" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:12:13.143" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is that Swift Silence is simply not good in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, note that Swift Silence only counters spells. Guttersnipe's ability is a triggered ability, not a spell, so it is unaffected by Swift Silence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your optimal strategy is to simply cast one Lightning Bolt at a time, and then let both the triggered ability and the Lightning Bolt resolve before casting another one. If you do that, then your opponent can only ever counter one Lightning Bolt with Swift Silence. In this case, your end step would play out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Bolt. Guttersnipe's ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority. Your opponent either casts Swift Silence and you let it resolve, or they just pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guttersnipe's ability resolves and deals 2 damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pass priority again. Your opponent has another opportunity to cast  Swift Silence and have it resolve, or they just pass priority again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unless your opponent cast Swift Silence in step 2 or 4, Lightning Bolt resolves and deals 3 damage to your opponent.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Go to step 1 if you have the mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can kill your opponent even if they counter one of the Bolts (for example, they're at 15 life and you have 4 Bolts in your hand and 4 available red mana), one variant to consider is going through that whole loop in response to the Swift Silence as soon as they cast it. This prevents them from drawing more countermagic from the Swift Silence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, Swift Silence does best at stopping storm spells like Grapeshot or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tendrils%20of%20Agony&quot;&gt;Tendrils of Agony&lt;/a&gt;. It can also be good at cleaning up a countermagic battle and drawing extra cards in the process. Especially in a multiplayer game, you can let two opponents respond to each others' spells a few times, and then stop it all with Swift Silence and draw several cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T18:12:13.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29895" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:31:19.043" Score="5" ViewCount="479" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hang in There&lt;/strong&gt; - Play on one of your minions. Ongoing: If this minion would be destroyed, move it to another base and destroy this action instead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nukebot&lt;/strong&gt; - power 5 - Ongoing: After this minion is destroyed, destroy each other player's minions on this base.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sacrifice&lt;/strong&gt; - Choose one of your minions. Draw cards equal to its power. Destroy that minion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am have a bit trouble figuring out when destroy triggers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play Sacrifice on a Nukebot that has Hang in There, what happens?  Which cards get destroyed and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15944" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T08:26:54.637" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T09:02:43.907" Title="What gets Destroyed?" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29896" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29895" CreationDate="2016-04-27T18:47:29.770" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Stepping through it in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Start - &lt;strong&gt;Nukebot&lt;/strong&gt; with &lt;strong&gt;Hang in There&lt;/strong&gt; are on a base&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Play &lt;strong&gt;Sacrifice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Choose one of your Minions - Choose &lt;strong&gt;Nukebot&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw Cards equal to its power - draw 5 cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destroy that minion - prepare to destroy Nukebot, check Ongoing triggers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hang in There&lt;/strong&gt; triggers on &lt;em&gt;If this minion would be destroyed&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Nukebot to another base&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Destroy &lt;strong&gt;Hang in There&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger on &lt;strong&gt;Nukebot&lt;/strong&gt; never fires because it is never destroyed.  The Hang in There prevents it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="10113" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T09:02:43.907" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T09:02:43.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29885" CreationDate="2016-04-27T19:55:42.223" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regarding the game rules and origin:&lt;/em&gt; It appears that this game is not widely know in English on the Internet. However, I found two families of card games played in other parts of Asia that appear to be related.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Regarding the name:&lt;/em&gt; &quot;Kaali Teeri&quot; or in English &quot;Three of Spades&quot; is of course a perfectly normal and logical name for a game of this nature. Based on how card game names typically evolve, it may have been coined when the 3 of spades first received its special role - or later in a cultural environment where this is an unusual feature. Some other features of the game may have changed since then, without causing changes to the name. It is quite possible that the game's Hindi name is just a translation from another language. In the same way, it's perfectly sensible and logical to call this game &quot;Three of Spades&quot; in English. Alternatively, one could call it &quot;Kaali Teeri&quot; in English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following are all the possible relatives that I could find. Let's start with the Rook family:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rook_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rook&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is an American card game with special cards, invented in an American Christian community that disapproved of standard playing cards because of their association with gambling. The deck consists of 4 suits with 14 cards each (numbered 1 to 14) plus a joker-like extra card representing a rook bird. The game has many variants, some of which make it more similar to Kaali Teeri. For example, there are variants in which the player can call a partner instead of playing in fixed partnerships. Remaining major differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game is only played with ranks 5 to 14, corresponding to the ranks 5 to King and Ace (high) when playing with ordinary cards, plus the Rook, corresponding to a Joker or perhaps the 3 of Spades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card values are 5: 5, 10: 10, Jack/Queen/King: 0 (not 10), Ace: 10, Rook: 20 (not 30).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every player gets only 9 of the 41 cards. The remaining 5 cards form a 'nest', from which the highest bidder may improve his hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shelem&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shelem&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Rok&lt;/strong&gt; is an Iranian game that is obviously connected to Rook. Major differences to Kaali Teeri:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no equivalent to the Rook, Joker or 3 of Spades.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Card values are 5: 5, 10: 10, Jack/Queen/King: 0 (not 10), Ace: 10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every player gets only 12 of the 52 cards. The remaining 4 cards form what is normally called a widow in English, from which the highest bidder may improve his hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another apparent Rook variant is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/national/syria.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Oochlee&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;, played by the Christian minority in Syria.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we come to the picture-taking family:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/picture/etori.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Etori&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is an almost extinct Japanese game. A modern variant that is still played is called &lt;strong&gt;Kakeya Toranpu&lt;/strong&gt;. Major differences to Kaali Teeri:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The partnerships are fixed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The trump suit is not determined by bidding but in one of several much less interesting ways.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regardless of trump suit, the highest card is always the Ace of Spades (not the 3 of Spades). Optionally a Joker may be added which is then the highest card. (It is not reported what other card if any is removed in this case.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The object is for a partnership to win more than 8 of the 16 scoring 'picture cards' Ace, King, Queen, Jack of all four suits. (This is equivalent to making Ace, King, Queen, Jack score 10 and everything else 0.) For this reason, this kind of game is called a picture-taking game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Japanese &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/picture/napoleon.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Napoleon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; has a lot of differences to Kaali Teeri, but it is obviously related to Etori and has some features that are actually closer to Kaali Teeri than Etori is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 is also a counting card, making the scoring system even more similar to Kaali Teeri.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players bid for the game. The winner calls for a partner by calling for a card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a variant in which a Joker is added as a 'trump hunter' and the 3 of Spades(!) has the role of a 'Joker hunter'.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Korean game &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/picture/mighty.html&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mighty&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is very similar to the Japanese games described before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Overall, I would bet that Kaali Teeri connects the American game Rook and its close relative in Iran with the Japanese picture-taking games. This even fits the geographic situation very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user8124" LastEditorDisplayName="user8124" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T06:45:19.810" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T06:45:19.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29886" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:29:24.910" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can. That card doesn't specifically mention anything about its equip ability having to be used on a different creature and not on one it's already attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good rule of thumb with Magic: Unless the card specifically states something, more oft than not you do exactly what is says on the card and nothing else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So since it doesn't specifically tell you to only equip it to a different creature, then you're good to go. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy that madness ability!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16011" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:29:24.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="774" CreationDate="2016-04-27T21:33:22.367" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've always had good luck by banking on large farms. This will usually net you tons of points at the end of a game but it's pretty risky as well in that you generally will want to place your Meeple on a farm pretty early in the game so at that point it's kind of a guessing game as to what area of the table the game is going to expand most, that is, which area will end up with the most cities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Roads are your biggest enemy with this strategy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16011" LastActivityDate="2016-04-27T21:33:22.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29483" CreationDate="2016-04-28T07:29:10.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking through my copy of &quot;The complete patience book&quot; - an old tome indeed, the nearest I can see is &quot;Persian&quot;, sometimes called &quot;Bezique&quot; which plays as you've said but using a deck without 6s,5s,4s,3s and 2s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastEditorUserId="2040" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T09:31:06.123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T09:31:06.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29905" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:33:12.480" Score="9" ViewCount="4754" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine the unpassable gap exists in both directions. Can a piece move over it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'll just illustrate my question with an example, can the ant move to the tiles marked yellow?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/RQLig.png&quot; alt=&quot;Hive question example&quot;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16064" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:13:30.763" Title="Hive's freedom of movement rule - can you 'pass over' a gap that you can't go into?" Tags="|hive|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29904" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:57:54.613" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the ant can move to all spaces marked in yellow. The only restrictions to movement are that it must remain attached to the hive and you can't move into spaces you cannot slide into. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It can cross these &quot;caves&quot; because it continues to be touching the hive when it moves, and that continual touching to the hive (and the sliding rule) are the only requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When moving any piece (but the hopper and when jumping the beetle up onto the hive), it must always remain in contact with at least one tile during the entire movement from beginning to end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T19:13:30.763" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T19:13:30.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29906" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29904" CreationDate="2016-04-28T16:59:12.003" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ant can make this move. It's unclear from the rules around the ant itself, but you can derive it from the description of a spider's movement and the statement in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Hive_FAQ#toc15&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; that a spider is strictly weaker than an ant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T16:59:12.003" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29926" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:30:50.887" Score="5" ViewCount="2938" Body="&lt;p&gt;How can I determine which US states have the highest Magic: the Gathering participation? To make the question less subjective, we'll define participation as any of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of Friday Night Magic participants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of [&lt;em&gt;some major series of tournaments&lt;/em&gt;] participants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Total amount of Magic: the Gathering product sales&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do any of the popular tournament organizers report on stuff like this? Does Wizards report on the amount of product sold per state, or the number of FNM participants per state? Is there a centralized place where I can find turnouts for Grand Prixs or Star City Open tournaments? Just to be clear, these are supplementary questions, and I am not expecting an answer to &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this question because last weekend was &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20161007092916/http://www.starcitygames.com:80/content/states&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;States&lt;/a&gt;. I think that the players in states with high participation are likely to play better decks than players from other states. This may be a poor way to gauge deck quality, but for a player who wants to be on the bleeding edge of meta (sometimes), I think it is at least better than using decklists from tournaments two weekends ago.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least in Texas, the number of players allowed at States was capped. I'm not sure if the cap is the same in every state, or whether the cap simply depended on the venue that was available, or whether the cap was predetermined based on a history of participation in that state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I click on any of the States events on starcitygames.com, I can view the &lt;a href=&quot;https://old.starcitygames.com/decks/results?event_ID=10&amp;amp;t%5BT1%5D=1&amp;amp;start_date=2016-04-23&amp;amp;end_date=2016-04-23&amp;amp;state=TX&amp;amp;city=Denton&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;top eight decklists for that area&lt;/a&gt;. However, there is no indicator that I can find of the total number of players in that event. I also tried to Google average Grand Prix turnout by state, and could only find scattered articles about record turnouts in various locations across various years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-05-10T18:42:06.380" LastActivityDate="2022-05-10T18:42:06.380" Title="Which US states have the highest Magic: the Gathering participation?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="29908" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29909" CreationDate="2016-04-28T17:58:51.523" Score="1" ViewCount="5584" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Noble%20Hierarch&quot;&gt;Noble Hierarch&lt;/a&gt; costs {G}, is a 0/1 Human Druid with exalted, and taps for {G}, {W}, or {U}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; costs {G}, is a 0/1 Bird with flying, and taps for one of any color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Noble Hierarch is $40-$50, Birds of Paradise is $5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? The birds have flying, and can tap for {R} or {B}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The exalted doesn't seem like it would be applicable here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T18:07:25.887" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:30:26.803" Title="Why is Noble Hierarch so expensive?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29908" CreationDate="2016-04-28T18:08:37.467" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Look at how much each has been printed. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Noble%20Hierarch&quot;&gt;Noble Hierarch&lt;/a&gt; was printed in Conflux and Modern Masters. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt; was printed in Alpha/Beta/Unlimited/Revised, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th edition, Magic 2010, 2011, 2012, and Ravnica. There are just way, way more copies out there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And by the way, Exalted can be quite relevant. The most obvious example is Infect (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtggoldfish.com/metagame/modern#paper&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;quite popular&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://sales.starcitygames.com//deckdatabase/displaydeck.php?DeckID=101065&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;can win tournaments&lt;/a&gt;), which is likely to play only Noble Hierarch and not Birds of Paradise. It doesn't need the other colors of mana, flying isn't that important, but an extra poison counter here or there is a huge deal. But this is true even for decks that aren't as all-in on single creatures. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/daily-deck/modern-naya-zoo-2015-11-06&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Zoo list&lt;/a&gt; plays Noble Hierarch and not Birds of Paradise. It has plenty of other ways to get the red mana, and even if sometimes it attacks with multiple creatures (missing out on exalted), the extra damage on the turns when it only has one creature to attack with can make a huge difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-04-28T20:41:49.043" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T20:41:49.043" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29908" CreationDate="2016-04-28T18:10:17.827" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two things affect the price of a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card utility, and the card rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Noble%20Hierarch&quot;&gt;Noble Hierarch&lt;/a&gt; has very few copies in circulation relative to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Birds%20of%20Paradise&quot;&gt;Birds of Paradise&lt;/a&gt;.  So that will affect the price.  Additionally, Exalted is hugely important in a number of decks.  Most notably infect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastActivityDate="2016-04-28T18:10:17.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29483" CreationDate="2016-04-28T22:30:18.133" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spider Solitaire? It's a pre-loaded game on Windows.... I could be wrong but it sounds exactly the same. Check your PC games and try it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in the PC version you can select whether to play with all 4 suits or just one or two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16071" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T05:44:22.730" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T05:44:22.730" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2016-04-29T00:48:36.920" Score="-1" Body="&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;30 pokemon (includes evolutions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 trainer cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;18 energy &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Try to focus on two types of pokemon good type sets are water-fire, fire-psychic, and water fighting. You can also have a few normal type pokemon and still be efficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16072" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T01:06:49.137" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T01:06:49.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29875" CreationDate="2016-04-29T05:37:33.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) Standard American (or 2/1) is almost unique among systems in considering the 3 card raise (after 1-over-1) a normal bid.  It's generally not allowed in Acol, SEF, or Forum D (the standard English, French, and German systems), although one occasionally has to do it as the least bad lie (when the alternatives are bidding 1N with a bad singleton, rebidding a mediocre 5 card minor, or reversing without sufficient strength).  It should be noted that, in those places, conventions to uncover 5-3 fits after a 1N rebid (Checkback Stayman, New Minor Forcing, Roudi, and the like) are more frequently played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Some American pairs who frequently raise on 3 cards after 1-over-1 auctions employ some variation of the Spiral Raise convention, where the next cheapest bid is artificial and asks opener if they have a minimum or a maximum and if they have 3 or 4 card support.  Various versions of this may also allow opener to show further features of their hand such as specific singletons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) Barring any conventions, it is common when one is in this situation for someone to offer NT as a place to play.  Either responder bids 2N or 3N with only 4, or opener bids 3N at some point to show only 3.  Both offer the possibility of playing in NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4) When opponents have jumped into the bidding, one loses some of these options, especially since NT bids now have to promise a stopper.  However, one now has double and cue bids available as artificial bids, and some partnerships assign some useful meanings to these.  In particular, the support double - which allows opener to promise precisely 3 card support so that raises promise 4 - is quite common among Standard American players.  I'm sure some pairs employ some variation of the Rosenkranz double (originally for when partner has overcalled) to distinguish 3 card support with and without a high honor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T05:37:33.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29908" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:37:27.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It wins goyf (i.e. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tarmogoyf&quot;&gt;Tarmogoyf&lt;/a&gt;) battles. Something that birds of paradise does nothing for. In the Abzan mirror for instance it is crucial in getting your goyfs over your opponents creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goyfs have one toughness more than their power so they can easily have a staring contest where it makes no sense to attack into one (With your own.) The exalted trigger breaks the stalemate.  Your goyf will kill your opponent's if he blocks and if he doesn't and there are no other creatures in play you are winning the race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not really ramp per se in these decks. It does help fixing a bit but still that free exalted triggers is crucial in getting your creatures trough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T12:30:26.803" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:30:26.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29919" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29920" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:42:41.070" Score="14" ViewCount="2690" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thing%20in%20the%20Ice&quot;&gt;Thing in the Ice&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing in the Ice enters the battlefield with four ice counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell, remove an ice counter from Thing in the Ice. Then if it has no ice counters on it, transform it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Flips into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Awoken%20Horror&quot;&gt;Awoken Horror&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When this creature transforms into Awoken Horror, return all non-Horror creatures to their owners' hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=409862&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gisa's Bidding&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put two 2/2 black Zombie creature tokens onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Thing in the Ice has 1 counter on it and I cast Gisa's Bidding then does the Thing transform before or after the Zombies are summoned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger Awoken Horror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horror Transforms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spell resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: 2 zombies and Awoken Horror on the board&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Spell&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spell resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger Awoken Horror&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Horror Transforms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: The transformation bounces the zombies and being tokens they disappear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which of these is correct and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T12:50:26.377" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:50:26.377" Title="Will transforming Thing in the Ice with a token-summoning spell bounce my tokens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29919" CreationDate="2016-04-29T09:54:52.200" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll wind up with your Awoken Horror plus two zombies. Awoken Horror will not bounce your zombies, because the whole transformation/bouncing process will happen while Gisa's Bidding is still on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the process, assuming players do nothing but keep passing priority after you cast Gisa's Bidding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Gisa's Bidding. It goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have cast a sorcery spell. Thing in the Ice's triggered ability goes on top of the stack. (In case it's unclear, &quot;when you cast&quot; triggers happen right after you've cast the spell, before it resolves.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thing in the Ice's ability resolves: you remove an ice counter from it, and since it has none left, you transform it as instructed and turn it over to its back face.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Awoken Horror has transformed, and its triggered ability goes on top of the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Awoken Horror's ability resolves, and bounces all non-Horrors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, Gisa's Bidding resolves and gives you two 2/2 zombies.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T12:49:42.610" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:49:42.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-29T12:41:50.783" Score="0" ViewCount="1648" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reveillark&quot;&gt;Reveillark&lt;/a&gt; and a few other creatures of power 2 or less and my opponent uses &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wrath%20of%20God&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, can I get back creatures that are dying to the wrath or do they have to have been in the graveyard before the wrath was cast? I'm unsure how the stack should work here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:48:52.737" Title="Reveillark death trigger" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-04-29T14:56:36.627" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29922" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29921" CreationDate="2016-04-29T12:48:52.737" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not necessarily the stack that you need to figure out, it's triggered abilities and abilities resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's what happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent casts Wrath.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrath resolves, placing your creatures in the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveillark's ability triggers. Since it and the other creatures are already in the graveyard, they are legal targets (well, not the Reveillark itself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reveillark's ability resolves, returning the other two creatures. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T12:48:52.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29923" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29927" CreationDate="2016-04-29T15:06:07.627" Score="4" ViewCount="222" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 25 of the rulebook states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Taking Control of Enemy Ports - If the land area connected to a Port&#xA;  is successfully attacked and taken control of by another player, that&#xA;  player may immediately replace any enemy Ship units in the Port with&#xA;  an equal number of his &lt;strong&gt;own available Ship units&lt;/strong&gt; (or as many Ship units&#xA;  as he has available, he desires, or is allowed by supply limits).&#xA;  Excess enemy ships are simply removed from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What does &lt;em&gt;available&lt;/em&gt; mean in this context? Available as in a player has ships left that (s)he has not yet mustered or available as in ships that have already been mustered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where do the own ships come from? Are they &lt;em&gt;existing&lt;/em&gt; ships on the board that simply move into the port now or are &lt;em&gt;new&lt;/em&gt; ships mustered instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16068" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T15:12:33.943" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T18:48:38.790" Title="Replacing ships after taking control of enemy ports" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21064" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:27:03.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should play with the number of pieces (cities or mighty knights) specified by the game rules. You in your example, you should play with only two mighty knights because that's what the rules specify.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you &quot;lost&quot; one of the two knight pieces and had only one. Then you could import an additional one from another set, or use a &quot;token&quot; for the &quot;second&quot; mighty knight piece called for by the game rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:27:03.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29875" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:27:52.043" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Good bidders prefer to rebid in NT with any balanced or semi-balanced (ie no singleton) hand when a 4-card raise is unavailable. This quickly refines both range and distribution of the opener's hand, enabling more precise bidding by both partners. Only weak players rush to either show 3-card support or to rebid 5-card suits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One exception to this rule is in a competitive auction where 3-card support is combined with shortness in the opposition's suit. Having a doubleton or singleton in opponent's suit as well as 3-card support is information too valuable to either hide or delay showing in a competitive auction. Knowing that the ruffing value is well placed, and with opponent's fit known to increase the likelihood that partner has a 5-card suit, the risk of a Moysian is reduced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, established partnerships generally play New Minor Forcing (or some other check-back convention) over opener's NT rebids to facilitate finding both 4-4 and 5-3 fits in Responder's suit(s).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T20:39:02.050" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T20:39:02.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29907" CreationDate="2016-04-29T17:38:56.627" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As one might guess it seems the states with the largest number of Magic players are also the ones with the largest populations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am assuming that the number of players in a state is directly correlated with the number of judges in that state. To get the number of judges in each state I used the &lt;a href=&quot;https://membership.wizards.com/&quot;&gt;WotC Judge Center&lt;/a&gt; tools to find all of the Level 1+ judges in the US that had a state listed (37 out of 3067 judges in the US didn't have a state listed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top 5 states by number of judges are (in order): California, Texas, Florida, New York and Illinois. These also happen to be the top 5 states by population (in the same order). Once you get past the top 5 only Colorado has the same exact ranking for both (#22), but most of the others are fairly close between the lists. You can find the data I used in &lt;a href=&quot;https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1DGXQJUqpHMfVJsRkpLVIANWm3oh4b3Qf3gwHVt78mqs/edit?usp=sharing&quot;&gt;this Google Sheets document&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T17:38:56.627" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29923" CreationDate="2016-04-29T18:48:38.790" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Available here means ships that are still in your supply. Use only those ships, not ones from the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may find this useful from Page 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Exceeding the Components Provided&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;  Each House is provided a limited number of units,&#xA;  tokens, and cards. If a player is using all his components of&#xA;  a particular type, he may not bring additional components&#xA;  of that type into play. Units that are destroyed in combat (or&#xA;  removed from the board for any other reason) are available to&#xA;  be mustered again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T18:48:38.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29930" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:27:45.947" Score="14" ViewCount="9943" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why is &lt;code&gt;LGS&lt;/code&gt; the term of choice for gaming stores?  Is it to specifically refer to &lt;strong&gt;local&lt;/strong&gt; gaming stores, as opposed to &lt;strong&gt;distant&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;non-local&lt;/strong&gt; gaming stores?  I have never seen &lt;code&gt;DGS&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;NLGS&lt;/code&gt;, so I don't know why it is necessary to specify &lt;strong&gt;local&lt;/strong&gt; in the acronym, instead of just using &lt;code&gt;GS&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;code&gt;LGS&lt;/code&gt; is intended to convey a physical store as opposed to an online retailer, why not &lt;code&gt;Brick &amp;amp; Mortar&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;B&amp;amp;M&lt;/code&gt;?  Most other retail industries I've read about (electronics and cigars come to mind) regularly use &lt;code&gt;B&amp;amp;M&lt;/code&gt; when talking about physical establishments instead of online retailers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But strangely, I've never seen &lt;code&gt;B&amp;amp;M&lt;/code&gt; used in the Magic/TCG/gaming vernacular.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14908" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-04-29T19:34:12.510" LastActivityDate="2018-05-16T00:22:15.537" Title="Why is &quot;LGS&quot; the standard term for a game store?" Tags="|terminology|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29928" CreationDate="2016-04-29T19:55:54.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because promotional material encourages players to go to them. The idea is that players will form playgroups around their local gaming store. In that sense, &quot;Your&quot; LGS would be the (hopefully) nearby store that you would to to to play games/purchase materials. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is in contrast to other brick and mortar shops that you may go to for a particular event, but is not local, or convenient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to why we use the particular phrase LGS, that's a little harder to pin down. Most likely, that's just the wording that TSR decided to use for Dungeons and Dragons. Since Magic the Gathering (the first of the wave of trading card games) hails from the same distributor, it makes sense to use the same terminology. Other TCGs follow suit, and here we are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the D&amp;amp;D and MTG communities formed before online retailers became mainstream. There would have been no need to differentiate between a physical and online retailer. This would explain why the E-Cigarette community uses said phrase: Because E-Cig supplies have been widely available online from the beginning of the Craze (Or, at least, since it became mainstream).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Either way, Communities such as those around E-Cigs and Electronics do not share roots with the D&amp;amp;D/TCG communities (though there is definitely overlap), and so developed their own jargon. Plus, of course, you don't expect to play games at a store that sells Vaping Fluid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13732" LastEditorUserId="13732" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T13:46:36.153" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T13:46:36.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29928" CreationDate="2016-04-29T21:19:30.930" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Local&quot; implies familiarity, and some connection specifically to &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;. It's a store near you, it's convenient for you, it's something from your area that you can be proud of, it's part of your community, it's a place you might see people you know. It also implies that it's not a chain. All of this adds up to a more warm and fuzzy emotional connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brick and mortar, on the other hand, is really just about offline vs online. A brick and mortar store could still be a giant national big box chain store. The only important thing is that it's physical, so it still sounds pretty impersonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this isn't &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; a gaming thing; for example &lt;a href=&quot;https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/search?q=LBS&quot;&gt;LBS&lt;/a&gt; (local bike store/shop) is pretty common too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can also see a lot of other &lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=local%20*%20store&amp;amp;case_insensitive=on&amp;amp;year_start=1950&amp;amp;year_end=2008&amp;amp;corpus=15&amp;amp;smoothing=3&amp;amp;share=&amp;amp;direct_url=t2%3B%2Clocal%20%2A%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%2Cs0%3B%3Blocal%20department%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20grocery%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20hardware%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20computer%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20drug%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20music%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20video%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20convenience%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20pet%20store%3B%2Cc0%3B%3Blocal%20general%20store%3B%2Cc0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;common &quot;local * store&quot; terms in the Google ngram viewer&lt;/a&gt;. &quot;Local grocery store&quot; is the most common, tying into the local food movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:32:41.477" LastActivityDate="2016-04-29T21:44:51.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29931" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T06:42:33.183" Score="0" ViewCount="368" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sherry:Q◇Q♧&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Loren:7♡8◇&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board:10♤9♤2♤A♤3♤&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a split or does Sherry win and why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks Tammy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16081" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T10:30:05.353" Title="flush on the board in texas hold'em poker" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-04-30T21:15:32.523" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29935" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:03:20.180" Score="3" ViewCount="1849" Body="&lt;p&gt;This card allows one to &quot;defeat all monsters.&quot; Epic monsters cannot be discarded but can they be defeated with this card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T09:15:57.207" Title="Can flute of the outer gods be used against epic monsters?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29933" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29934" CreationDate="2016-04-30T07:31:57.727" Score="1" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;When one has an asset that grants +2 skill and one that grants +1, the effective bonus is not additive. Rather, we apply the highest bonus. My questions is: do the bonuses from improvement tokens count as similar &quot;+&quot; bonuses or are they separately added as &quot;additional die rolls&quot; are. Namely, if I have a +1 improvement token on my strength and I hold an asset that grants me +1 to strength, is my effective bonus +2 or merely the best &quot;+&quot; bonus (ie +1 in this case)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T08:55:24.897" Title="Do improvement token bonuses count as skill bonuses when determining the highest bonus to apply to a test?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29933" CreationDate="2016-04-30T08:55:24.897" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Improvement tokens are neither a &quot;skill bonus&quot;, nor &quot;additional dice&quot;, they provide dice in a separate step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an investigator resolves a test, he performs the following steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Determine Dice Pool&lt;/strong&gt;: The investigator determines the number of&#xA;  dice he will roll. This number is his &lt;strong&gt;DICE POOL&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;•  He starts with a number equal to the skill being tested.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •  He adds or subtracts the test modifier (the number that follows&#xA;  the skill icon on the effect).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •  If he has an Improvement token for the skill being tested, he&#xA;  adds the Improvement token’s modifier.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •  He may use &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; effect that provides a bonus (for example “Gain&#xA;  +3 Will”). If multiple effects provide a bonus, he uses only the&#xA;  highest bonus.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  •  He adds any “additional dice” he gains from effects that apply.&#xA;  Additional dice are cumulative and are in addition to other&#xA;  effects&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Tests&quot; (page 11)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Everything&lt;/strong&gt;, except &quot;skill bonuses&quot; stacks.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Only the effects worded as &quot;gain +X [some skill]&quot; are skill bonuses.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All other effects are not skill bonuses, and stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T08:55:24.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29932" CreationDate="2016-04-30T09:15:57.207" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, they can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An Epic Monster cannot be defeated by any effect except losing&#xA;  Health equal to or greater than its toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Epic Monster&quot; (page 6)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T09:15:57.207" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29931" CreationDate="2016-04-30T10:30:05.353" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The pot is split. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In hold-em, each player is judged by the best 5 cards that they can put together between the board and their hand. In this case, for both players, that is just the five cards on the board. Sherry's queens cannot be used as kickers because they do not appear in the best five card hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T10:30:05.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29928" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:09:20.023" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Local Game Store is supposed to be a counter to Big Box store that sells games. So instead of the generic large Wal-Mart chain. FLGS (Friendly Local Game Store) refers to your distinct, independent and local (usually not chain store) independent game store. (Also sometimes referred to as Mom-n-Pop Stores)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more contemporary context it's also used to counter the online store more than chain retail locations. While easier to access in some ways is in no way local to you as an individual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But terms can and do change and adapt. Lately I've seen others use the term FLGS to refer to stores such as Barnes and Nobles when they have game nights. My own FLGS has four locations. But the term is essentially about a collective term for &quot;Whever it is you choose to play&quot; as opposed to &quot;This store that we're telling you to play at&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:09:20.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29938" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:49:05.713" Score="5" ViewCount="3166" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing with a counter deck, and my opponent played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Algae%20Gharial&quot;&gt;Algae Gharial&lt;/a&gt;, which has shroud. Could I counter it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16086" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-04-30T21:54:45.417" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:54:45.417" Title="Can I counter a creature with Shroud?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29938" CreationDate="2016-04-30T21:54:33.820" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Shroud on a card only works if the card is on the battlefield. In order to not be able to counter it the spell would have to have &amp;quot;~ cannot be countered [by spells or abilities]&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.18a&lt;/strong&gt; Shroud is a static ability. “Shroud” means “This permanent or player can’t be the target of spells or abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.1.&lt;/strong&gt; A permanent is a card or token &lt;strong&gt;on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. A card or token becomes a permanent as it enters the battlefield and it stops being a permanent as it’s moved to another zone by an effect or rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-04-30T21:54:33.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29940" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T00:54:06.860" Score="-1" ViewCount="470" Body="&lt;p&gt;My partner bids 1H. Opponent says 2D.  I have stoppers in D and 14 points. What do I bid? Can I bid 2NT or must I make a suit bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16085" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T05:15:17.247" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T05:15:17.247" Title="Bridge bidding response after rho overcalls at 2 level and you have stoppers and 14 pts" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-02T03:49:10.333" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29941" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29943" CreationDate="2016-05-01T06:03:28.670" Score="3" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you gain this card, immediately gain 2 Spells. Then discard 1 Spell and this card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wording implies that I can keep both Spells and discard a previously owned Spell, but it kind of breaks the idea of going shopping for spells and picking from a wide selection. Ruling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T08:03:14.297" Title="Can I discard a spell not drawn by Magick Shoppe?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-under-the-pyramids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29940" CreationDate="2016-05-01T06:18:13.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In preference order your options are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a singleton in Spades or Clubs with 4 or more hearts,&#xA;jump in that denomination to show your support, strength, and short&#xA;suit feature. This bid should be limited to 12-14 HCP, which your hand just fits into. Stronger hands with a singleton should probably take control with a cue bid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have 4 or more hearts without a singleton or void the&#xA;priority is to show that support for partner; with this strength of&#xA;hand one would do that by first bidding 3D to create the game force.&#xA;The cue bid in this case could be looking for stoppers in partner's&#xA;hand rather than showing support, but is always one of the two and&#xA;you will clarify on the next round.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A (non-jump) new suit bid is absolutely forcing for one round and&#xA;promises 10+ points and either promises a 5+ card holding or is a&#xA;prepared bid to show support for partner. That would be your second&#xA;choice if you have a suitable hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have four Spades then your next choice is to show that with a&#xA;Negative Double. You will later either jump to game or cue bid the&#xA;opponents suit to show your game forcing values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have 5 or more good Diamonds then you should probably pass,&#xA;allowing partner to reopen with a double that you can convert to&#xA;penalties. A good partner will always make such a reopening call&#xA;after a first or second seat opening as here.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Failing all of the above possibilities, jump to 3NT to show good&#xA;stoppers in diamonds, no singleton or void, at most three Spades, at&#xA;most 2 hearts, and lacking 5 or more strong Diamonds or Clubs, and&#xA;13-15 HCP; that pretty much leaves only hands with 3-2-4-4&#xA;distribution or 3-2-3-5 with bad Clubs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And the last choice is to make the ambiguous cue bid of 3D [corrected from 3H] again,&lt;br&gt;&#xA;showing your strength but denying the ability to make any of the&lt;br&gt;&#xA;above calls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T06:51:23.303" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T06:51:23.303" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29941" CreationDate="2016-05-01T08:03:14.297" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text is unambiguous.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Have in mind it's not worded &quot;Then discard 1 of these Spells and this card.&quot; while it could be.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There is no relevant ruling, as this is not a rules issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T08:03:14.297" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29945" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29947" CreationDate="2016-05-01T14:57:25.527" Score="12" ViewCount="7789" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game of Magic, I attack with a 5/5, indestructible, trample. My opponent blocks with a 2/3 and a 2/2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He hopes the 2/2 will die because of an effect when that creature dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I choose to just sink my five damage into the first creature and not touch the second&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="433" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T21:51:24.787" Title="Can you choose not to assign damage to a second blocker?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29946" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29945" CreationDate="2016-05-01T15:20:04.140" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. You can assign as much damage as you want to a single blocker. The only restriction is that you cannot assign damage to a second blocker until you have assigned lethal damage to the first. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1. First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. A player assigns a creature’s combat damage according to the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;510.1a Each attacking creature and each blocking creature assigns combat damage equal to its power. Creatures that would assign 0 or less damage this way don’t assign combat damage at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;510.1b An unblocked creature assigns its combat damage to the player or planeswalker it’s attacking. If it isn’t currently attacking anything (if, for example, it was attacking a planeswalker that has left the battlefield), it assigns no combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature. &lt;strong&gt;If two or more creatures are blocking it, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocked creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that’s blocking it unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage.&lt;/strong&gt; When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. &lt;strong&gt;An amount of damage that’s greater than a creature’s lethal damage may be assigned to it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T15:25:10.847" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T15:25:10.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29945" CreationDate="2016-05-01T15:20:55.563" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can always assign more than lethal damage to a creature. In your example, you can assign five damage to the 2/3 and not touch the 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns combat damage to the creatures it’s blocking. If it isn’t currently blocking any creatures (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. If it’s blocking exactly one creature, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature. If it’s blocking two or more creatures, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the blocking creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign combat damage to a creature that it’s blocking unless, when combat damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that blocked creature is assigned lethal damage. When checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt. &lt;strong&gt;An amount of damage that’s greater than a creature’s lethal damage may be assigned to it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Judge's Corner has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/MgeHgzULU_s&quot;&gt;great video&lt;/a&gt; that covers the specific scenario in your question and more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T18:39:01.167" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T18:39:01.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29945" CreationDate="2016-05-01T15:21:19.807" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, per 510.1c, quoted below in its entirety with emphasis added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h2&gt;510.1c&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for&#xA;  example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no&#xA;  combat damage. If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all&#xA;  its combat damage to that creature. If two or more creatures are&#xA;  blocking it, it assigns its combat damage to those creatures according&#xA;  to the damage assignment order announced for it. This may allow the&#xA;  blocked creature to divide its combat damage. However, it can’t assign&#xA;  combat damage to a creature that’s blocking it unless, when combat&#xA;  damage assignments are complete, each creature that precedes that&#xA;  blocking creature in its order is assigned lethal damage. When&#xA;  checking for assigned lethal damage, take into account damage already&#xA;  marked on the creature and damage from other creatures that’s being&#xA;  assigned during the same combat damage step, but not any abilities or&#xA;  effects that might change the amount of damage that’s actually dealt.&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;An amount of damage that’s greater than a creature’s lethal damage may&#xA;  be assigned to it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You announce the damage assignment order for the blocking creatures, putting the 2/3 first and the 2/2 second. Assign 5 damage to the 2/3, leaving 0 damage to be assigned to the 2/2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your 5/5 has trample, briefly look at 702.19.b. Since lethal damage hasn't been assigned to each creature that blocked it, you can't assign damage to their control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-05-01T21:51:24.787" LastActivityDate="2016-05-01T21:51:24.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29949" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-01T20:59:10.820" Score="4" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coordinated Firepower is a Tau detachment benefit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a unit from a Hunter Contingent selects a target in the shooting phase, any number of other units from the same detachment who can still shoot can add their firepower to the attack. These units must shoot the same target, resolving their shots as if they were a single unit ... the firing models +1 BS&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Independent character Darkstrider has this special rule&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Darkstrider targets a non-vehicle enemy unit with a shooting attack, that unit suffers -1 toughness against hits from that shooting attack - this applies to Darkstrider's entire unit, not just his own&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Darkstrider can only join Fire, Breacher, and Pathfinder teams BUT if I'm reading this correctly, if I use Coordinated firepower, fire at a MC with Toughness 6 using 3+ units (let's say a tank, the pathfinder team w/ Darkstrider, and broadside), does the tank and Broadside fire at the MC using his 5 toughness, due to Darkstriders -1 T ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically the Hammerhead tank has a Str 10 railgun that would insta kill this 6 wound creature. From the bold items in the above descriptions, I'm thinking that they can?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However Darkstrider would have to be within a Fire, Breacher, Pathfinder unit for this to work. If he is on his own, he is not apart of the detachment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;edit: If this tactic works, then it's safe to say the same tactic would work with markerlights? That is, if I hit a unit with 4 markerlights, and 3+ units fire at that unit as a single unit, the markerlights apply to all units firing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. I use 2 marker lights for BS (so +2) and another 2 for ignores cover, usually I'd have to apply markerlights per unit firing, so if I shot with a unit of riptides and a unit of tanks, only 1 unit would confer the +2 BS &amp;amp; IC benefit. But if I fire with a unit of riptides, a unit of tanks, and a unit of broadsides, each unit gains the +2 BS &amp;amp; IC since they're firing as 1 unit (also the +1 BS for coordinated firepower).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16091" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T13:02:15.177" Title="Warhammer 40k - Tau detachment benefit clarification" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29950" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29952" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:08:17.113" Score="2" ViewCount="3274" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any sort of limit to the number of weapons or items you can use during combat? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Arkham Horror, the hand icons restricted the number of weapons/spells/items that you could use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T03:18:07.603" Title="Limit on weapons used during combat" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29953" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:12:25.350" Score="4" ViewCount="2292" Body="&lt;p&gt;Years ago I played a card game with a Swedish friend with a standard deck of cards and two spoons on the centre of the table. There were teams of two, with the team members sitting opposite each other. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't remember what had to happen for you to be 'out', I think it was that you had to get a pair, but then you had to make a predetermined, secret signal, say pulling on your ear lobe, to your team mate. When it came around to your go again you both grab a spoon from the centre of the table each, but if a member of the other team guessed you had made a signal they can intercept it and win the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any idea of the name of the game? I would love to remember the rules properly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16094" LastEditorUserId="16094" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T19:50:41.910" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T19:50:41.910" Title="Help identify card game with teams and secret signals?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29950" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:26:50.460" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/39/c1/39c182c1-6b0d-46c4-b5eb-dd6886b4c798/eh01_reference_guide1.pdf&quot;&gt;rules reference&lt;/a&gt; (page 12):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Can I use multiple weapons during combat?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A. Yes, but you can only apply the highest bonus to a test. However, &#xA;  you may use any other effects, from your other weapons. For example, &#xA;  if you have a Bull Whip Asset and a .45 Automatic Asset, you may &#xA;  apply the +3 bonus from the .45 to your {combat check} instead of the +1 bonus from the whip, and you may still reroll one die by using the whip’s &#xA;  other effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2016-05-02T03:18:07.603" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T03:18:07.603" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29951" CreationDate="2016-05-02T00:30:34.890" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like a variation on what the internet tells me is called &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.howdoyouplay.net/party-games/how-to-play-kemps.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Kemps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. (&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; The specific variation being &lt;em&gt;Spoons&lt;/em&gt; related but while &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Spoons&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt; has similar bluffing aspects it lacks the team aspects in common with &lt;em&gt;Kemps&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a more modern board game (&lt;em&gt;Wink&lt;/em&gt;) that has a similar mechanic of getting your partner to announce you have the victory via secret signals I'll see if I can find it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T06:11:02.447" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T06:11:02.447" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29955" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-02T08:46:49.303" Score="3" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the benefits of ducking especially when playing in NT. If I have Axx in hand and Jxx in dummy how do I decide whether or not to duck the first two tricks?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is correct to duck and other times not. Is there a way of telling when?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16101" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:50.397" Title="Rubber bridge and whether or not to duck" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-09T20:13:56.807" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29949" CreationDate="2016-05-02T13:41:49.493" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the errata* released in July of 2016, this is now a much clearer rule.  The rule now reads that the shots are resolved at the same time, but does not indicate that the shooters are all counted as the same unit.  Just like the rule read before, the benefit of the improved BS and shared markerlights still applies, but you no longer get to share unit-wide special rules.  Darkstrider no longer confers the toughness reduction to all the shots in the coordinated firepower attack.  A Commander with the Signature Systems that buff his unit if he does not attack no longer confers ignores cover and twin-linked to an entire coordinated firepower volley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*GW publishes errata and FAQs on facebook first for comments, then pushes them to their site later.  Bell of lost souls reposted them for those without facebook accounts &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2016/07/breaking-new-40k-tau-faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastEditorUserId="13410" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T13:02:15.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T13:02:15.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1414" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:03:10.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't believe nobody mentioned the axe. In 2 player it's balanced, 3 player gets pretty great, 4/5 player where you can get the needed stone + additional things on the first move it gets nuts!  I think our group will ban it in 4/5 player games from now on. We just had a mini tournament and Axe ruled in every game it came up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16108" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T14:03:10.663" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29955" CreationDate="2016-05-02T14:35:26.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Much like many things in bridge, there is a rule of thumb for ducking.  Assuming a 3NT contract, you can follow the Rule of Seven:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Subtract from seven the total number of cards that declarer and dummy hold in the defenders' suit and duck their lead of the suit that many times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example (again, assuming a contract of 3NT), you should duck the lead once and win the second round.  If the outstanding cards are distributed 5-2, one duck will be enough to break the opponent's communication in that suit.  If they are distributed 4-3, you can't disrupt the communication, but they could only ever cash three tricks in the suit if they get in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one big exception to this, and that's not to duck if there is another suit that is worse than the led suit.  Say the hands are like the following in a 3NT contract:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;♠️ xx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ♥️ Qxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ♦️ KQJxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ♣️ Qxx  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;♠️ Axx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ♥️ AKxx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ♦️ Axx&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ♣️ xxx   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the opponents lead a spade, you should not hold up.  If you let the opponents win the trick and they switch to clubs, you could potentially go down before you can get in.  Better to just win the trick and cash your nine/ten tricks immediately rather than duck the spade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T14:35:26.683" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29955" CreationDate="2016-05-02T15:30:50.397" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is rather an extended comment than an answer.  The TL;DR version is: there are no simple rules; you have to count your winners (and maybe also your potential losers) and make a plan for the hand first.  It also depends on the bidding and on what opponents play to the first trick and what their lead and signalling conventions are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I misplayed the following hand at 4H in a regional duplicate tournament, matchpoint pairs, a few weeks ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dummy:&#xA;S: ATx&#xA;H: Axx&#xA;D: Jxx&#xA;C: J8xx&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Declarer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;S: Qx&#xA;H: KJTxx&#xA;D: KQ9x&#xA;C: AK&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening lead was the TC.  I paused to study the dummy, more out of courtesy than anything else, and played low.  Obvious, right?  After all, why waste the JC when you know you'll have to cover it in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right there, I basically gave away my best chance for the second overtrick, worth about 40% of a board.  I'll leave it as a puzzle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T15:30:50.397" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25067" CreationDate="2016-05-02T18:48:15.190" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unlike original doomtown you cannot discard jokers when you draw them into your play hand. They follow the normal discard rules when drawn in hand. As such, if you have a deck that naturally does well in shootouts and pulls you may find the jokers to be more of a nuisance than a help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a deck that doesn't find the addition of jokers to be helpful. It takes time to cycle cards so jokers can really clog up your hand. While in your hand they provide no value limiting your options for a turn or more while you struggle to discard them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16111" LastActivityDate="2016-05-02T18:48:15.190" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:20:36.617" Score="8" ViewCount="2295" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bob, Timmy, and Susie are playing a Free For All in MTG and Timmy kills Bob by putting him at 0 life. On Susie's next turn, could she play something like Alabaster Potion to make Bob's life total go back up, allowing him to continue playing? Or is Bob completely out of the game? Similarly, when Bob is at 0 life, can Susie still make him take X amount of damage to Gain X life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16116" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T02:25:59.863" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T11:32:42.457" Title="Can a dead player have life restored later to bring them back into the game?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29961" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:22:05.757" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;A player at 0 life loses the game permanently. Everything they own (including e.g. permanents that are under someone else's control) vanishes from the game; neither the player nor their stuff is a legal target anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.3b If a player’s life total is 0 or less, he or she loses the game the next time a player would receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.5. If a player loses the game, he or she leaves the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more specifics on what happens when a player leaves the game, see rule 800.4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T01:47:06.813" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29963" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24768" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:34:32.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Submarines that are not under threat from an enemy destroyer can use their special ability to choose to make a surprise strike (either on attack or defense) or choose to submerge. This occurs before any dice are rolled by either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Axis 1942 Second Ed. Rules, P14, General Combat, Step 2:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Before the general sea battle takes place (steps 3–5), both&#xA;  attacking and defending submarines can choose to either make a Surprise Strike die roll or submerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an English sub attacks a German sub, as there are no destoryers present on either side, both will have the option to make a surprise strike or submerge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure where you get your understanding that a) other sea units (besides subs) need to be present, and b) only if attacker and defender both have submarines, these are both incorrect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two things to note about submarines:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As there are no other enemy (surface) warships present, any 'surprise' strike would effectively not be 'surprising'.. both submarines would get a suprise strike at the same time. The attacker rolls a surprise strike, and then the defender rolls the surprise strike on defense. Any hits are then removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The whole process starts over again once casualties are removed, so the choice to submerge or surprise strike (remaining in combat) is made before the attacker rolls attack dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typically, the defending sub would choose to submerge, as it defends on a 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16115" LastEditorUserId="16115" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T05:46:34.150" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T05:46:34.150" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29594" CreationDate="2016-05-03T01:41:05.100" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use your non-combat move phase to have a carrier move to a position so that those planes that were moved in the combat move phase can land. Fighters land in the non-combat move phase of the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you move fighters in the combat move phase, you can only move them to squares where you can show that it is possible (even if it doesn't end up happening, see below) that they have some way for them to land in the non-combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that providing a landing for your fighters is not optional, it is mandatory. However, it is only required to show it is possible, and not carry out the movement. If the fighters are destroyed, you no longer need to provide a somewhere for them to land, and the carrier can move elsewhere in the non-combat movement phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T01:41:05.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29965" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29951" CreationDate="2016-05-03T09:23:24.617" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;We played similar at school, was called Bartlet there, although we didn't have spoons in the middle, was 4 cards and people could snatch cards from there before others, they had to get a set in their hand and their partner did too.&#xA;You call &quot;Bartlet&quot;, when you have a set and &quot;Anti Bartlet&quot;+declare couple when you think the others have a set.&#xA;Brings back memories, how I loved this game!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've since spoken with my friends, and we're going to be playing bartlett on holiday!  Can not wait.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/nov/22/rules-childrens-card-games-bartlett&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2008/nov/22/rules-childrens-card-games-bartlett&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16119" LastEditorUserId="16119" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T09:02:25.517" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T09:02:25.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29961" CreationDate="2016-05-03T11:32:42.457" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of casual formats to the game, so it would be entirely possible for you to create one that allows players to come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in all of the official formats (and all of the unofficial one's I've seen) any player who 'loses' the game takes no further part in it, and being reduced to zero or less life causes a player to 'lose' the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16042" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T11:32:42.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29968" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:05:32.487" Score="3" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say you have 7 enchantments on the field, including two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Starfield%20of%20Nyx&quot;&gt;Starfield of Nyx&lt;/a&gt; and a creature that cares about creatures entering the battlefield (e.g.&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Soul%20Warden&quot;&gt;Soul Warden&lt;/a&gt;). You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Eerie%20Interlude&quot;&gt;Eerie Interlude&lt;/a&gt; targeting some number of the enchantment creatures to flicker them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if you flicker 1 enchantment creature, it'll trigger Soul Warden once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you flicker the two Starfield of Nyx, will they enter as creatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you flicker three non-Starfield enchantment creatures, will they re-enter as creatures?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T16:47:26.583" Title="Starfield of Nyx and Eerie Interlude" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29967" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:18:29.057" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The enchantment creatures you flickered will enter the battlefield as enchantment creatures in both cases.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The static ability of Starfield of Nyx creates a continuous, type-changing effect. As such, it works as soon as the permanent it changes enters the battlefield. As long as the condition is fulfilled, enchantments including themselves enter the battlefield as creatures and trigger Soul Warden. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Soul Warden would be triggered even if Starfield's condition is only fulfilled with their own presence, e.g. if you flicker the 2 Starfields and control only 3 other enchantments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield (and not before then). The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified characteristics. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T16:47:26.583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T16:47:26.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29969" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29973" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:39:10.807" Score="10" ViewCount="684" Body="&lt;p&gt;A continuous effect that changes enchantments to creatures (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Starfield%20of%20Nyx&quot;&gt;Starfield of Nyx&lt;/a&gt;) is on the battlefield and the effect is active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During my upkeep, I target an enchantment to return.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In response, my opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hallowed%20Moonlight&quot;&gt;Hallowed Moonlight&lt;/a&gt; which creates a replacement effect that only affects creatures entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that enchantments that enter the battlefield do trigger creature ETB triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, since the replacement effect occurs before it would enter the battlefield, is the enchantment exiled (aside from the &amp;quot;may&amp;quot; clause in Starfield)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T19:52:29.823" Title="Will Hallowed Moonlight exile creatures from Starfield of Nyx" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29969" CreationDate="2016-05-03T16:54:50.533" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, Hallowed Moonlight exiles enchantments put into the battlefield with Starfield of Nyx if you control 4 or more enchantments.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hallowed Moonlight creates a replacement effect that lasts until end of turn. If Hallowed Moonlight wasn't in effect, the enchantment would enter the battlefield as a creature as long as you control 4 other enchantments. It doesn't matter what combination of types it was outside of the battlefield, all that matters with that types it would enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen—they aren’t locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like “shields” around whatever they’re affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's where Hallowed Moonlight steps in and exiles the card, because it never sees the card as anything other than an enchantment creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.6b Continuous effects that modify characteristics of a permanent do so the moment the permanent is on the battlefield (and not before then). &lt;strong&gt;The permanent is never on the battlefield with its unmodified characteristics.&lt;/strong&gt; Continuous effects don’t apply before the permanent is on the battlefield, however (see rule 603.6e).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the enchantment &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; enter the battlefield as a creature, and Moonlight replaces that event with exiling that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there is the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.12. Some replacement effects modify how a permanent enters the battlefield. (See rules 614.1c–d.) Such effects may come from the permanent itself if they affect only that permanent (as opposed to a general subset of permanents that includes it). They may also come from other sources. To determine which replacement effects apply and how they apply, check the characteristics of the permanent as it would exist on the battlefield, taking into account replacement effects that have already modified how it enters the battlefield (see rule 616.1), continuous effects generated by the resolution of spells or abilities that changed the permanent’s characteristics on the stack (see rule 400.7a), and continuous effects from the permanent’s own static abilities, but ignoring continuous effects from any other source that would affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last line would say that Starfield of Nyx wouldn't be considered for determing whether the Moonlight replacement effect applies to enchantments. &lt;strong&gt;However&lt;/strong&gt;, the rule specifically only applies to &lt;em&gt;how&lt;/em&gt; permanents enter the battlefield, not &lt;em&gt;whether&lt;/em&gt; they enter it at all. It applies to cases with a wording as described in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1c Effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield with . . . ,” “As [this permanent] enters the battlefield . . . ,” or “[This permanent] enters the battlefield as . . . ” are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;614.1d Continuous effects that read “[This permanent] enters the battlefield . . .” or “[Objects] enter the battlefield . . .” are replacement effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not fit moonlight's wording, so 614.12 can't apply to Moonlight. There are also no other specific rules that would apply to Moonlight's replacement effect, so I have to assume that Moonlight has to consider type-changing effects such as from Starfield, just like for example ETB triggers have to consider it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T17:24:40.287" CommentCount="17" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29971" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29972" CreationDate="2016-05-03T17:51:46.253" Score="0" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Scion%20of%20the%20Ur-Dragon&quot;&gt;Scion of the Ur-Dragon&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield it attracts a lot of hate. So my plan is to reanimate it using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Torrent%20of%20Souls&quot;&gt;Torrent of Souls&lt;/a&gt; to hit a surprise 16 damage attack using Scion's ability to copy &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Atarka%2C%20World%20Render&quot;&gt;Atarka, World Render&lt;/a&gt;. To do this I need to copy Atarka first and then attack. I want to know if Scion will lose the haste obtained from Torrent of Souls when it copy Atarka. Are there other sources of haste that disappear when Scions copy a dragon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="13607" LastEditDate="2016-05-03T18:33:43.310" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:36:49.857" Title="Scion of the Ur-Dragon and Torrent of Souls" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29972" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29971" CreationDate="2016-05-03T18:10:54.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Determining how continuous effects interact is done using a system of layers (see also: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7586/how-do-layers-work&quot;&gt;How do Layers work?&lt;/a&gt;) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Control&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Text&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Type&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Add/Remove&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Power&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, Torrent and Scion both create continuous effects that affect the P/T and abilities. Layers gives us the order in which to apply them, even if the effects were created in a different order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scion's copy ability applies in layer 1. So, there, it becomes a copy of Atarka.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Torrent's haste and +2/+0 are applied in layers 6 and 7. So, &quot;Atarka&quot; gains haste and +2/+0.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &quot;Atarka&quot; attacks, it gains another ability in layer 6. It doesn't conflict with anything, so it's just added. So, you'd have an 8/4 Flying Haste Double-Strike after declare attackers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:36:49.857" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29969" CreationDate="2016-05-03T19:16:00.750" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This has changed as of the Ixalan rules update. Under the current rules, Hallowed Moonlight will exile any Enchantment that Starfield of Nyx would put onto the battlefield if its type changing effect is active&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original ruling from the Ask a Magic Judge tumblr, quoted below, appears to be based directly on rule 614.12. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Replacement_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;new text of that rule&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some replacement effects modify how a permanent enters the battlefield. (See rules 614.1c–d.) Such effects may come from the permanent itself if they affect only that permanent (as opposed to a general subset of permanents that includes it). They may also come from other sources. To determine which replacement effects apply and how they apply, check the characteristics of the permanent as it would exist on the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;taking into account&lt;/strong&gt; replacement effects that have already modified how it enters the battlefield (see rule 616.1), continuous effects from the permanent’s own static abilities that would apply to it once it’s on the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;and continuous effects that already exist and would apply to the permanent&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the new rules, the Starfield's continuous effect that makes the enchantment a creature is taken into account while applying replacement effects that affect an object that would enter the battlefield, so Hallowed Moonlight's effect applies and the enchantment is exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Old Answer (now incorrect)&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that the enchantment is not printed as a creature, Hallowed Moonlight will not exile it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ask a Magic Judge tumblr already has &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/138544688484/does-hallowed-moonlight-exile-enchantment-cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a post covering this exact situation&lt;/a&gt;. To explain the reasoning, it says (emphasis added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When we determine whether or not to apply a certain replacement effect, like Hallowed Moonlight’s, to an object that would enter the battlefield, &lt;strong&gt;we only look at that object’s own abilities and characteristics and not other effects that would change the abilities or characteristics of the object once it’s on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;. Since a normal enchantment isn’t going to generally enter the battlefield as a creature, Hallowed Moonlight’s effect isn’t applied here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2018-01-04T19:52:29.823" LastActivityDate="2018-01-04T19:52:29.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29094" CreationDate="2016-05-03T21:17:14.073" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;So far, I have found two ways to simplify the preparation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some exploration cards (and other elements) are only used in a single scenario. I separate all such scenario-specific components, and store each such scenario separated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Storing the exploration card sorted alphabetically greatly decreases the search time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-05-03T21:17:14.073" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29975" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-04T03:12:34.570" Score="7" ViewCount="6465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the Mewtwo EX tin and he has an ability called &quot;Shatter Shot&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This attack does 30 damage multiplied by the amount of &quot;psychic&quot; energy you have on this Pokémon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a bunch of Psychic type energy. Is there a maximum amount of energy you can have on one Pokémon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16122" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T16:35:55.000" LastActivityDate="2021-06-17T14:29:44.317" Title="Is there a maximum amount of energy that can be attached to one Pokémon?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29977" CreationDate="2016-05-04T03:25:08.957" Score="12" ViewCount="7781" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does it really matter when I play my land for my turn? Some people get extremely annoyed/agitated when I play a land before spells and I don't actually need the land right away for casting my spells. Does it give away any information of benefit to my opponent, or is it bad for other reasons?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm mainly asking about whether to play the land before (as opposed to after), not about whether to play it at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15539" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T23:07:53.863" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:31:38.750" Title="When should I play my land for my turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29977" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29976" CreationDate="2016-05-04T03:44:58.817" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play a land for the turn during either main phase, before or after casting spells. There's no hard and fast rule about what time is best to play your land. If someone told you there was, they probably don't have a thorough understanding of the game. But if someone told you that in a specific situation you should've played differently, they might've had a point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give an idea, here are some of the things that might come up. These aren't meant to be exhaustive lists, just to demonstrate that it's not a black and white issue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons you might play a land before casting a spell or going through combat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You need the mana immediately (you're about to spend all you can produce), or you're planning out actions in which you'll eventually want it all available and you want to make sure you count everything correctly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The land has some effect that you want before playing spells (e.g. the scry from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Temple%20of%20Silence&quot;&gt;Temple of Silence&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might need the mana to pay to keep a spell from being countered (if your opponent might have something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mana%20Leak&quot;&gt;Mana Leak&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You have instants you could cast or abilities you could activate, and want to make sure you could do so if something happens in response to the other spells you're playing, or during combat. (Or you want your opponent to &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; this is the case.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want your opponent to think there's a lower chance you have other spells in hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reasons you might wait to play a land until after casting spells or after combat:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're going to draw cards and the land you'll choose to play depends on what you draw. (In some cases, this could even include choosing not to play a land at all.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to find out what happens when you cast a spell or during combat before you decide what land to play.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to cast spells or go through combat with your opponent thinking there's a higher chance you have additional spells in hand, or a lower chance that you have a land (and thus that you have less mana available for spells/abilities).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes you might even consider not playing a land at all for the turn. Usually you don't want to do that since you might need the mana for a bigger spell or multiple spells later. But if that's not an issue, some of the same ideas as above come into play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might want your opponent to think you have more spells or fewer lands left.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You want to wait til later to get a non mana effect from the land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You might have to discard a card later and would prefer it to be the land.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, yes, there are definitely reasons it might be much better to play a land at one time than at another time - but it's not &amp;quot;always before&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;always after&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-05-05T13:23:44.310" LastActivityDate="2016-05-05T13:23:44.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29975" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:02:38.313" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There is no limit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each turn you can only attach one energy to one of your Pokémon (either a benched or active Pokémon), and there is no rule limiting the total energy.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The downside of lots of energy on one Pokémon is that if your Mewtwo gets knocked out, all attached energy is put into the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-04T16:33:07.003" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:33:07.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29720" CreationDate="2016-05-04T04:05:44.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if it ever included metal parts, but that sounds like it could have been &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2726/crazy-clock-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;crazy clock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that possibly Flying Finnegan or Grape Escape&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T04:05:44.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29928" CreationDate="2016-05-04T16:55:32.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I do believe that lgs is a mtg term. I have never heard other card games talk of it. It stand in contrast to the mega stores like wallmart that also sell the product but do not engage the community in any other meaningful way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The local store is much more than just a store it is a hub for all the related nerd culture activities. Without the lgs a lot of the activities would simply not be possible. It is a great vehicle for like minded hobby enthusiasts to come together and enjoy there favourite past time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Brick and mortar is a specific term that designates a real life store. Because mtg is so dependant on the hobby store to not just sell the product but engage with the community, they receive special privileges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that in the us at least to register with suppliers you have to prove you have a physical store front. Also if you want to host fnm you need a store.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T16:55:32.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29884" CreationDate="2016-05-04T17:39:10.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you should take into account walls when calculating distance to Fenn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/imperial-assault/support/SWI01_Learn%20to%20Play.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; under movement on page 8 (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Walls:&lt;/strong&gt; Indicated by a black line that most often appears on the edge of map tiles.  Two spaces separated by a wall are &lt;em&gt;not adjacent&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;Figures cannot move through or trace line of sight through walls.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two pieces of information in this section that show walls impact distance. First, characters can't move through walls, and any line of sight (LOS) actions can't be taken through a wall. This is pretty important because it indicates how actions can be taken in regard to walls. I would consider the special rule for this mission (&quot;If the hero is Fenn or is within 3 spaces of Fenn, the figure disarms and retrieves the explosive instead&quot;) to be a LOS ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, two spaces separated by a wall are not adjacent. You cannot travel between the two with one movement point. The &quot;distance&quot; between these spaces is more than one because of the wall. This means that if a wall is between two squares that are three spaces apart on the map, you cannot use three movement points to move between them; you need more movement to get around the wall. This would indicate that the &quot;distance&quot; between the two squares is greater than three.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-05-04T17:39:10.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-05T19:33:36.323" Score="0" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Sister Grimm supporting character's Super Power reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;{C} Any Combat {Y}:&lt;/strong&gt; Search your deck for an &lt;strong&gt;{C} Combat&lt;/strong&gt; plot twist with a different name from each plot twist in your KO pile and play it if able.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if you can't play it? I assume that if I search for a card and can't play it, it stays in my deck. Part of the problem here is that I'm used to MtG, where the card would explicitly tell you what to do in the alternative case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T14:37:40.123" Title="For Sister Grimm's Super Power, where does the plot twist go if you can't play it?" Tags="|vs-2pcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27340" CreationDate="2016-05-06T02:42:57.557" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was called Shift, but I have no idea who manufactured it or what year it was published.  I'm looking right at it right now, it's in my hand, but there's absolutely no identifying marks other than the cover image, the title, &quot;(THE TRICKY CONNECT-FIVE) GAME&quot;, and the instructions on the back that describe the move you're talking about.  Other than that, it says it's &quot;Made in Hong Kong&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16135" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T02:42:57.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29976" CreationDate="2016-05-06T08:01:21.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't really matter when you play a land, and like all things in magic, it is situation dependent. They key is what information are you giving your opponent by playing the land, and of course, what spell you're playing. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the land tap for a color that you don't already have? (eg playing an island with two forests in play) Your opponent suddenly knows that you may have counterspells or your deck is not super aggressive, adjusting his/her use of instants accordingly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does playing the land leave you with just the spell in your hand? You've just told your opponent that you don't have any other plans for the turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So when you play a land that is &quot;unnecessary&quot;, ask yourself if you're giving your opponent any information that may affect your next spell. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16136" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T08:01:21.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29976" CreationDate="2016-05-06T11:25:00.537" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Generally in Magic, you want to encourage your opponent to make bad decisions. This can either mean keeping information from them, or revealing information that causes them to misevaluate your plan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the early stages of learning the game, I would &lt;em&gt;encourage&lt;/em&gt; you to play your land as the first thing in the turn. It reduces the number of things you have to remember by 1 (&quot;have I played a land yet&quot;), and the biggest danger as a new player is information overload. It's very easy to miss a land drop because you're trying to play it as late as possible and forget if you've made one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From there, as other players, have said, it's about trying to get your opponent to misjudge your intention. For example, you play a land and attack, your opponent assumes you have a specific combat trick and doesn't block, thus sacrificing life for no value. Or you hold the land in your hand with mana available and represent a counterspell or removal spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T11:25:00.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29988" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29989" CreationDate="2016-05-06T13:50:32.157" Score="3" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Wildfire%20Cerberus&quot;&gt;Wildfire Cerberus&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bow%20of%20Nylea&quot;&gt;Bow of Nylea&lt;/a&gt;, and Bob has a tapped 3/3 Beast token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice attacks with the Cerberus, and activates its Monstrosity. In response, Bob targets the Cerberus with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vanish%20into%20Memory&quot;&gt;Vanish into Memory&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When everything resolves, will Bob still have his Beast token?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16137" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T13:52:08.700" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T09:34:51.720" Title="Deathtouch/Monstrosity Interaction" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29988" CreationDate="2016-05-06T14:00:29.893" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on if Vanish into Memory is cast before or after the Monstrous ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Vanish into Memory is cast in response to the Monstrosity ability then the Beast will survive because when the ability resolves the Cerberus is no longer on the battlefield to trigger, and thus doesn't deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Gatherer Ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ability that triggers when a creature becomes monstrous won’t trigger if that creature isn’t on the battlefield when its monstrosity ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Vanish into Memory is cast in response to the triggered ability the the Beast will die because the ability uses Last Known Information to determine if the Cerberus had deathtouch. Basically the game looks back in time to how the Cerberus last existed on the battlefield to determine effects of the damage like deathtouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.7a&lt;/strong&gt; Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source after that time won’t affect the ability. Note that some abilities cause a source to do something (for example, “Prodigal Pyromancer deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) rather than the ability doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered ability that references information about the source because the effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it resolves. In both instances, &lt;strong&gt;if the source is no longer in the zone it’s expected to be in at that time, its &lt;em&gt;last known information&lt;/em&gt; is used.&lt;/strong&gt; The source can still perform the action even though it no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.2e&lt;/strong&gt; If an object changes zones before an effect causes it to deal damage, its last known information is used to determine whether it had deathtouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T14:00:29.893" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25310" CreationDate="2016-05-06T14:43:44.010" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't have much luck because I couldn't take the time to sign out and getting recommendations not based on my preferences is apparently quite hard. But have you tried &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meetup.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;MeetUp&lt;/a&gt;? On the continent I know it's a very popular website for finding local gamers. You might be able to use MeetUp as Hao Ye suggests to find a blind meet up and see if anyone is interested in cribbage. The best I could find was this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.meetup.com/MatchUp-Oahu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Singles Group&lt;/a&gt; but there might be others and you might be able to create one if you're interetsed. You could also scan &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/Honolulu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;your local subreddit&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T14:43:44.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29991" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-06T18:02:50.650" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T18:02:50.650" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T18:02:50.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29992" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-06T18:02:50.650" Score="0" Body="The VS 2PCG is a deck construction game by Upper Deck where two players create 60-card decks centered around a main character. While there are similarities to the original VS System, there are noticeable differences, including a purchase model where all cards are included with each set, rather than a CCG." OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T19:12:44.717" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T19:12:44.717" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29993" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29976" CreationDate="2016-05-06T19:15:15.843" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In all honesty, I think a lot of arguments revolving around information hiding and headgames are overblown. Being able to efficiently sequence your resources and analyze lines of play is far more important than pulling off an occasional bluff or reading tells. And fiddling with land drop sequencing is a fairly minor part of bluffing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of &lt;em&gt;fundamentals&lt;/em&gt;, there are three main scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;You want more land&lt;/em&gt;. This is the default, &amp;quot;90% of the time&amp;quot; case. Feel free to play that land as the first action of your first main phase, right after you've had a little bit of time to look at the card you drew and think about how you're going to develop the turn. Why?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you consistently play land right after the draw phase, you're unlikely to forget your land drop for the turn. Even for an experienced player, it's one less detail to keep in your head.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You'll have the most mana available for interaction right away: pay off that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spell%20Pierce&quot;&gt;Spell Pierce&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; your guy in response to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, et cetera. (In my experience, the only time I don't want to do this is when I'm actively trying to bait out a Spell Pierce in the first place.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;You need more land, but you're really unsure of how to better develop your board&lt;/em&gt; (e.g. you have a Mountain and a Swamp in play and one of each in hand, but you're not sure whether you want to cast your 1BB or 1RR spells after combat). At the beginning of your turn, figure out when that decision point will actually be (e.g. &amp;quot;after the combat phase&amp;quot;), and make a mental note of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're worried about forgetting to make the land drop, it's okay to use a physical aid to remind you. Make a note on your notepad or set a counter on top of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;3&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;You don't especially need more land in play&lt;/em&gt; (e.g. you're playing a burn deck and you've already got four or five Mountains in front of you). You may be better off not playing a land at all. Reasons to keep excess land in hand include:&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Basic bluffing. Only good until your get &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Duress&quot;&gt;Duress&lt;/a&gt;ed or an opponent makes a &amp;quot;Do you have it?&amp;quot; play and it's obvious you don't, but, until then, you are getting some small bit of value out of otherwise useless cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Discard protection. Dead cards in hand can be used to protect your &amp;quot;live&amp;quot; cards. This is most applicable in formats with random discard or hard-hitting hand-shredders — cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Return&quot;&gt;Rakdos Return&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hymn%20to%20Tourach&quot;&gt;Hymn to Tourach&lt;/a&gt;. Helps protect you from discard-based kill cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=The%20Rack&quot;&gt;The Rack&lt;/a&gt; as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Painless discard fodder for special abilities. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Olivia%2C%20Mobilized%20for%20War&quot;&gt;Olivia, Mobilized for War&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Avatar%20of%20Discoard&quot;&gt;Avatar of Discoard&lt;/a&gt;, that sort of thing. Very deck-dependent, of course.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:31:38.750" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:31:38.750" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29994" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="29997" CreationDate="2016-05-06T21:51:50.833" Score="5" ViewCount="2419" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I first read &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reduce%20to%20Ashes&quot;&gt;Reduce to Ashes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reduce to Ashes deals 5 damage to target creature. If that creature would die this turn, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I thought &amp;quot;ok, a way to deal with indestructible&amp;quot;, but then I thought again and wondered. Because indestructible will stop you dying, and the exile only kicks in after you die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So does it work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:44:49.780" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:44:49.780" Title="Does Reduce to Ashes Kill indestructible creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-10-15T13:39:32.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29995" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29994" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:11:53.703" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the indestructible creature doesn't die, so the replacement effect of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reduce%20to%20Ashes&quot;&gt;Reduce to Ashes&lt;/a&gt; doesn't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12. Indestructible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12a Indestructible is a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T05:10:18.020" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T05:10:18.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29994" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:13:20.653" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Reduce to Ashes can exile an indestructible creature, but it can't kill such a creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct in that Reduce to Ashes can't kill an indestructible creature. However, it will still exile that creature if it dies in another way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;700.4. The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This usually happens as the result of the destruction of a creature, but there are other ways too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.14a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Indestructibility does not prevent a creature dying, only its destruction, which is one way to make a creature die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you damage an indestructible creature with Reduce to Ashes, and later that turn it dies because of a sacrifice or its toughness goes to zero, it will be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:18:40.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29994" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:13:26.657" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature will not die or be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability Indestructible is defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Indestructible&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule 702.12b&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if you resolve Reduce to Ashes targeting an indestructible creature with 5 or less toughness, this is how it plays out:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, Reduce to Ashes deals 5 damage to the creature. For the rest of the turn, if that creature would die, it is exiled instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;State-based actions&lt;/a&gt; are checked. In particular, rule 704.5g says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage &lt;strong&gt;and is destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the creature has indestructible, so it can't be destroyed and nothing happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, since the creature wouldn't die, the replacement effect never happens. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_effect&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rule 614.7&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a replacement effect would replace an event, but that event never happens, the replacement effect simply doesn’t do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However if the creature dies for some unrelated reason (if its controller sacrifices it, for example), then the replacement effect will kick in, and the creature will be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:25:41.773" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T22:25:41.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29998" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:36:27.487" Score="4" ViewCount="2260" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my friend has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20%5BTotem%5D%20%5BArmor%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;totem armor&lt;/a&gt; on a creature and I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Anger%20of%20the%20Gods&quot;&gt;Anger of the Gods&lt;/a&gt;, what happens? They are both replacement effects but which is applied first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16140" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T22:55:09.233" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T16:47:56.860" Title="Anger of the Gods and totem armor" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="29999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29998" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:51:09.487" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The creature will not die or be exiled, and instead the aura with Totem Armor will be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anger of the Gods says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anger of the Gods deals 3 damage to each creature. If a creature dealt damage this way &lt;strong&gt;would die this turn&lt;/strong&gt;, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Totem Armor is an ability defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Totem_armor&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 702.88a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Totem armor is a static ability that appears on some Auras. “Totem armor” means “If enchanted permanent &lt;strong&gt;would be destroyed&lt;/strong&gt;, instead remove all damage marked on it and destroy this Aura.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importantly, Anger of the Gods replaces a creature dying, and Totem Armor replaces a creature being destroyed. These are very similar, but not the same. Dying is defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Additional_rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 700.4&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The term dies means “is put into a graveyard from the battlefield.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Destroy is a keyword action defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Destroy&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 701.6a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To destroy a permanent, move it from the battlefield to its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, destruction is an action that causes a permanent to go to the graveyard, and dying is the event of a permanent moving to the graveyard. By my reading, this means that destruction causes dying, so destruction happens first Therefore, the Totem Armor replacement would apply first and save the creature, and we never get to the point where the creature would die and the Anger of the Gods replacement would apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T16:47:56.860" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T16:47:56.860" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-06T22:54:23.930" Score="2" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhWiI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hhWiI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a chess game scenario&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am playing white and it is my turn. I am currently in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I capture the pawn in front of my king to escape the check, placing his king in checkmate? Or is it illegal and therefore I lose? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16141" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2016-05-06T23:33:53.743" LastActivityDate="2017-04-26T08:23:53.473" Title="Help with the rules of checkmate" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30000" CreationDate="2016-05-06T23:10:08.563" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Taking the pawn places your king in check, under threat from the opponent king.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As white, you have no way of creating check on your opponent, let alone mate.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;White loses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T23:10:08.563" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30002" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30000" CreationDate="2016-05-06T23:10:27.147" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you may not ever move your king into a position in which it is threatened (&quot;in check&quot;).  If you did, your opponent could just immediately capture your king, and you would lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reference from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fide.com/component/handbook/?id=171&amp;amp;view=article&quot;&gt;FIDE Laws of Chess&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;3.9. ... No piece can be moved that will either expose the king of the same colour to check or leave that king in check.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2016-05-06T23:10:27.147" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30003" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30000" CreationDate="2016-05-07T02:13:29.197" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can solve any such problem by pretending the rules of check and checkmate don't exist, and instead you just lose when your king is captured. In your case, if you take the pawn, black will take your king and you will lose. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule of check becomes unnecessary since all it says is you can't make a move that allows your opponent to win immediately, and you wouldn't want to anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note: this way of thinking about it doesn't account for the rules about stalemates or castling through check.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T02:13:29.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30006" CreationDate="2016-05-07T05:48:16.203" Score="3" ViewCount="661" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say Player 1 has something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shimmer%20Myr&quot;&gt;Shimmer Myr&lt;/a&gt; that reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may cast artifact cards as though they had flash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then when that player tries to cast an artifact as an instant, Player 2 places something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394634&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Naturalize&lt;/a&gt; on the stack to destroy target artifact (the Shimmer Myr). What happens to the artifact being cast?  What about the mana used to cast it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5137" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-05-08T16:24:01.783" LastActivityDate="2016-05-08T16:24:01.783" Title="What happens when destroying something that gives flash to a spell on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30005" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T06:04:25.267" Score="1" ViewCount="103" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I gain control of another players commander, does it still deal commander damage or does that only work with your own commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15630" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-09-13T00:41:32.330" LastActivityDate="2017-09-13T00:41:32.330" Title="Can you deal commander damage with any players commander?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|mtg-commander-damage|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-07T11:51:53.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30006" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30004" CreationDate="2016-05-07T06:58:43.827" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player 2 can't really stop player 1 from casting an artifact as if it had flash, outside of destroying Shimmer Myr while player 1 is tapped out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any given time, one player has priority. If player 2 has priority first and casts Naturalize, player 1 can respond by casting an artifact. If player 1 has priority, they can cast an artifact. Once they do so, it's on the stack and it doesn't matter if player 2 casts Naturalize; the artifact has already been cast and will eventually resolve unless it's countered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is, Shimmer Myr's ability only matters while they're &lt;em&gt;casting&lt;/em&gt; the artifact. (Same goes for flash.) You check whether you're allowed to cast a spell as part of casting it, not later, and timing restrictions are part of that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T06:58:43.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6167" CreationDate="2016-05-07T09:52:05.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been playing 3 player games with my kids.  Since there is no direct wording in the rules, this is what we agreed upon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event of a muggin, the player next to score catches what he can. Then the third any missed by the others.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16143" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T09:52:05.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30009" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:28:14.137" Score="3" ViewCount="2290" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a crossroad card says that something happens at every location does that include the colony? Does the colony by itself count as one location or do each of the numbered entrances count as a location? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specific case: A card offers to draw two zombies away from every location. How many of them will be gone from the colony? Zero? Two? Up to twelve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T20:43:31.470" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T20:43:31.470" Title="When referring to &quot;every location&quot; in Dead of Winter does this include the colony?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30009" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30008" CreationDate="2016-05-07T13:43:36.190" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Colony is a location with six entrances. So for instance Raiding Party says add two zombies to every location. This includes the colony which would get one zombie in Entrance 1 and one zombie in Entrance 2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your specified case when taking away zombies you would again take only two from the colony not two from every entrance&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the manual page 5:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game board is made up of 7 different locations, including the colony board and 6 location cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 12; note the specific phrasing indicating that other locations are &quot;non-colony locations&quot; thus including the colony as one location just a special location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Add 1 zombie to the colony for every 2 survivors (including helpless survivors) present there (rounded up). Add 1 zombie to each non-colony location for every 1 survivor present at that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thus the colony IS a location. a single location. The rest of it is a combination of cards saying to add/remove zombies from locations and not entrances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="5614" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T20:12:45.780" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T20:12:45.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30010" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-07T15:57:31.820" Score="4" ViewCount="320" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules text on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Gleam%20of%20Authority&quot;&gt;Gleam of Authority&lt;/a&gt; is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchant creature&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature gets +1/+1 for each +1/+1 counter on other creatures you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has vigilance and &amp;quot;{W}, {T}: Bolster 1.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature were to gain more counters, would that enchantment also raise in power as well or just stay as it originally was?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16144" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-07T17:11:09.420" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T17:19:26.217" Title="Does Gleam of Authority care if a creature gains extra counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30011" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30010" CreationDate="2016-05-07T17:19:26.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the enchanted creature would grow more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;604.1. Static abilities do something all the time rather than being activated or triggered. They are written as statements, and they’re simply true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;611.3a A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t “locked in”; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-07T17:19:26.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30013" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30014" CreationDate="2016-05-08T04:30:26.847" Score="7" ViewCount="2635" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is quite clear that an investigator can only use one item that gives the highest bonus in combat,  even if they have multiple items (i.e. Multiple weapons) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However,  what about spells such as Wither? We must first test Lore to see if we get a bonus and then flip the card and fulfil additional effects based on our results.  Its possible that you don't get the bonus due to failing the test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this count as the component that you used for combat and you cannot use any other items, even if you failed? Or is it special since the spell doesn't give a plain combat bonus like regular items? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T09:58:41.263" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T10:08:18.843" Title="Spells and Items during combat" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30013" CreationDate="2016-05-08T08:20:52.340" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the reference guide, page 11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He may use &lt;strong&gt;one&lt;/strong&gt; effect that provides a bonus (for example “Gain +3 Will”). If multiple effects provide a bonus, he uses only the highest bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This wording implies that when multiple effects are available he uses the highest bonus, not that he strictly uses the effect with the highest bonus potential. It implies to me that all the effects are in play and overlapping.  Narratively it supports the idea that multiple items operate concurrently, an idea also supported by the fact that items that grant rerolls can accumulate. This is how we have been playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that choosing to use Wither comes with its own cost when it fails, so there is already a penalty when it is attempted and failed.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T09:59:26.170" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T09:59:26.170" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30016" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-08T20:12:30.147" Score="5" ViewCount="506" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is regarding a Texas Holdem No Limit home game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the flop, Player 1 and Player 2 are the only remaining betting players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After the river card, Player 1 goes all in.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then Player 2 decides to call, but instead of saying &amp;quot;call&amp;quot; he says &amp;quot;full house&amp;quot; and flips his cards over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 has the highest hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16152" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2023-02-08T20:01:05.633" LastActivityDate="2023-02-08T20:01:05.633" Title="Texas Holdem All-In Question" Tags="|house-rules|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30017" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:24:37.503" Score="2" ViewCount="29" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.twilightcreationsinc.com/fileadmin/downloads/cthulhu/Cthulhu_Rules-v4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules for Cthulhu!!! Hastur La Vista Baby!&lt;/a&gt; cover named buildings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the tile is any other “named building” (e.g. the “Pharmacy” or “Burial Hill”), place one cultist in each interior square (each square inside the building). Then place one bullet or one heart (your choice) in each interior square. For this purpose, “Burial Hill” is a named building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easy enough for buildings that have a street running through the tile, but what qualifies as an interior square for named tiles like the Witch House tile?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it just the farthest row from the entrance? Or does it include the doorway, possibly the square to the right of the door, or even the entire farthest two rows?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11928" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T01:32:09.993" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T01:32:09.993" Title="What counts as an interior square in the Witch House tile?" Tags="|cthulhu-hastur|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30018" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:45:03.820" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T01:45:03.820" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T01:45:03.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30019" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-09T01:45:03.820" Score="0" Body="Cthulhu!!!: Hastur La Vista, Baby! is a semi-cooperative adaptation of ZOMBIES!!! for 2-6 players in which you lay down tiles to build a map of downtown Kingsport, while fighting Hastur's minions, and attempting to sanctify three Ritual Sites." OwnerUserId="11928" LastEditorUserId="11928" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T02:46:15.797" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T02:46:15.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30020" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30016" CreationDate="2016-05-09T03:20:25.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;When there are only two players left, player 2 showing his hand hurts him and no one else. Thus you can just ask him to make an official move (i.e. actually call), and then proceed with the game. This would work even if the previous bid wasn't All In - player 1 could continue playing with full knowledge of player 2's hand, and player 2 has only himself to blame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are more than two players left, however, showing your hand is unacceptable because it tells the remaining players things about each others' hands (i.e. which cards the others are not holding).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T03:20:25.810" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30013" CreationDate="2016-05-09T10:08:18.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This becomes clear when you're aware that &lt;em&gt;gaining a bonus isn't the same as applying a bonus&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wither may have you gain a +3 bonus if you succeeded on the Lore test.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At the same time Hired Muscle may have you gain a +1 bonus, no strings attached.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;All in all, you may &lt;strong&gt;gain any number of bonuses&lt;/strong&gt; to a given test.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then, &lt;strong&gt;you apply exactly one of these bonuses&lt;/strong&gt; – the highest one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you failed to cast Wither, this just makes you not gain this particular bonus.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you have gained some other bonuses, you'll apply one of those.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T10:08:18.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30023" CreationDate="2016-05-09T10:17:31.830" Score="2" ViewCount="1505" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I was reading the rules for PDS units using the Deep Space Cannon technology and I want to be positive I understand it correctly. So if an enemy faction puts a control marker down and moves ships into a system within the range. I may fire one die per PDS unit in range? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a planet tile with three planets in it and you can have up to two PDS units per planet. So if that is the scenario, that would be six dice rolled in total? That seems really overpowered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16158" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T10:29:18.610" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T13:37:15.933" Title="Twilight Imperium 2 Planetary Defence Units per planet question" Tags="|twilight-imperium|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30022" CreationDate="2016-05-09T13:37:15.933" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's powerful, but remember that you're limited by the number of pieces you have.  And if I recall correctly, then you only get the 6 PDS units.  So while yes, the PDS wall is strong, it is just a Maginot line.  You can just go around it, since the PDS units have to be transported or rebuilt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15775" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T13:37:15.933" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:47:05.653" Score="0" ViewCount="171" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Android: Netrunner have anything similar to Magic the Gathering's &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/events/resources/judges&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;judge program&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T01:48:29.873" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T04:01:07.560" Title="Android: Netrunner judge program" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30016" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:58:44.607" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because Player 1 made the final raise, he should be the first to show his cards when players reach the showdown. However, according to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wsop.com/poker-rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the World Series Of Poker rules&lt;/a&gt;,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player holds a hand that is likely the winner, they should show that hand immediately to speed play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, it appears Player 2, in an effort to speed up play, short-cutted the word &quot;call&quot; and went straight into the showdown. Showing your hand in response to a shove (an all-in raise) is definitely considered a call by poker pros. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:58:44.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29761" CreationDate="2016-05-09T15:59:40.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I asked this question to the official developers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No, the overlord cannot use Dark Charm to make your hero give the&#xA;  token to Baron Zachareth in The Shadow Vault.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Thanks for playing, Kara Centell-Dunk Game Developer Fantasy Flight&#xA;  Games&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8404" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T15:59:40.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30027" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30041" CreationDate="2016-05-09T16:33:51.427" Score="5" ViewCount="1042" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand the general ruling on companions lost on death. Essentially it says &quot;whomever enters the room first gains custody of the companion&quot;. However, this doesn't quite make sense for the scenario I'm in right now: two heros and the traitor are in a room. One hero has the madman, and dies fighting the traitor. Now the madman, last hero and traitor are all in the same room. Who gets the madman? We eventually decided that you had to move out of the room and back into the room to take the madman, since that's what the rules seem to say, but that seems illogical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tl;dr if a companion is in the same room as two explorers, who gets the companion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16162" LastEditorUserId="16162" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:40:08.443" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T04:25:28.507" Title="Companions lost on death in same room as other explorers" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30028" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30029" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:39:03.517" Score="3" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Psychic Field mentions spending credits. Are both players actually spending these credits from their credit pool, or are these imaginary credits?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a runner has 0 credits, this is basically a guaranteed win?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTVxD.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lTVxD.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T18:07:28.947" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:07:28.947" Title="Psi 0, 1, or 2 games - are credits from thin air or player's pool?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30029" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30028" CreationDate="2016-05-09T17:42:10.767" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, this card is an example of the Psi game mechanic, and credits are always spent from your credit pool. If aplayer has no credits, then they can only bid 0 during the Psi game (note: this is an excellent way of dealing with Caprice Nisei!).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the manual (p.7),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Credit Pool: Each player has a credit pool where he keeps the credit&#xA;  tokens he has available to spend. Spent credits are returned to the&#xA;  token bank.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T17:42:10.767" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30030" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T18:40:40.127" Score="5" ViewCount="8752" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am wondering on what modifications could we make to Munchkin for a better overall gameplay when adapting it to be played with 7-12 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am currently worried with the following issues:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Number of cards (the quantity of cards available is limited, and more players means more consumption)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cards turnover (it will probably result in a more frequent used cards pile recycling, leveraging repeated cards usage)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Time (it will last more to finish a full round, and consequently a full game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balancing interferences (when it's in my turn it might have from 6 up to 11 allies or enemies, very likely to leverage the number of interferences, which could lead to be almost impossible to win a game - almost always there will be someone that can disturb you from winning, turning it into an endless game)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But feel free to also address any additional aspect I haven't covered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11816" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T18:55:12.123" LastActivityDate="2017-04-04T21:21:43.483" Title="Munchkin with 7-12 players" Tags="|house-rules|munchkin|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30032" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:09:32.587" Score="8" ViewCount="3164" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing Two-Headed Giant. I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383181&quot;&gt;Ajani's Pridemate&lt;/a&gt;, which has &quot;Whenever you gain life...&quot;.&#xA;My teammate plays a card, that makes him gain life. As we share our life total, my life is also updated. Do I get to activate Pridemate's ability, when my teammate plays the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-09T22:10:00.733" LastActivityDate="2020-02-03T17:22:59.683" Title="Two Headed Giant - do I gain life when my teammate gains life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30032" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30031" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:15:28.537" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the Pridemate's ability doesn't trigger when your teammate gains life, because while your shared life total goes up it is not you gaining life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/magic_the_gathering_twoheaded_giant_tournament_faq_pdf1.pdf&quot;&gt;Two-Headed Giant FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;How does damage, loss of life, and gaining life work with the single life total for the team?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Damage, loss of life, and gaining life happens to each player individually. The result is applied to the&#xA;  team’s shared life total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T19:15:28.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30030" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:19:40.913" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First advice: get more cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, there are many expansions of Munchkin. I find it easier to combine 2 or more decks when playing with more than 4 players. &#xA;Also, the &quot;Cheat with both hands&quot; expansion addresses the fact, that many sets have different added rules and classes/races are not compatible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In large playgroup, inadvertently factions arise, and play tends to get longer. &#xA;As with many multiplayer games, there is no easy solution for that. It's more fun with more people, until you reach certain number of players, when it isn't fun anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, it gets better with time, when the group gets to know each other better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12539" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T19:19:40.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30030" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:23:22.667" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's not much you can do about the time. It's Munchkin. it's a 30 minute game that extends to two hours with the regular number of players. More players means more piling on. Munchkin takes so long because you win not by defeating enemies but by out lasting the counter blows from your other players. More people mean you have to be even stronger to break through. The best you can do to address that is to start the pile-ons sooner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Suggestions&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;1. Change the goal from 10 levels to 5.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Muchkin is a 2 hour game with four people. More people means more time. With level 10 as the goal people wait till you hit level 8 or so before attacking you. With 10 players that's going to take forever so set the goal to five. The beginning will be odd but people will push those attacks faster and you can begin the end game war of attrition a lot sooner.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;2. Reduce monster values&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Because the goal is level 10, monsters can be worth 2-3 levels because it generates a fun swing when you gain a few levels and then lose a few levels. With this many people. that swing is what makes the game so long. Instead make every monster count. Each monster is worth 1 level for every say 3 levels out there. If you would normally gain 3 levels.. too bad it's just 1. If you would normally gain 4 levels. Gain two.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;3. Buy expansions&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Honestly even with 12 people hoarding items card limitations is a very easy problem to fix. First off remind people they can sell items for levels. There's a lot to be gained from selling levels instead of jumping into the firing squad.  But if all else fails there are a TON of munchkin expansions that are cheap.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;4. Limit Bags&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;In the rules your bag is unlimited. You can carry whatever you want and are only limited in what you can equip. Instead set a firm rule. Maybe you can carry everything you can wear, one alternative. (so for instance, One head, one arm, one arm, one food, one body, and for an alt a two handed OR an extra foot). And then in terms of everything else no more than say 5 items. This could also encourage people to sell stuff rather than hold on to it. To use those attack rather than to wait for someone to get to level 4.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These limits should get people more invested in attacking, more willing to attack, make attacks more serious, and make them more manageable as people won't be able to hoard 20 levels of monsters until you get to level 9 causing you to lose 4 levels or die. It makes the game harder to keep going. Thus ending it sooner. Card turnover isn't really an issue in my opinion. Cards aren't so powerful that seeing them again and again is really something to be concerned with. With the exception of removing every &amp;quot;Gain a Level&amp;quot; card from my deck (because I DID see those a lot and they're not fun/interesting) I've played many games and never seen a card I would not like to see again. The best I can do to address the balance is to limit the weapons people can have. If everyone blows their wad on you the next guy won't have anyone doing anything. Now people won't have the gear to attack everyone every turn. So hopefully this means that some of them are always gaining gear and some of them are always using it and not everyone at the same time is using it. Ideally on any given turn you won't have 7-10 enemies because there wont' be 7-10 people with that much gear because they'll be using it on people before you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T01:05:27.327" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30035" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30027" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:42:53.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would say whoever picks up the token. So you would put the madman aside and then the next player able to &quot;pick up&quot; the madman would gain custody. They sort of hint towards that with the item pile&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any other items you have drop to the floor. Put an Item Pile token there and set aside their cards. Other explorers can go to the room to pick up your items (and take these cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-05-09T19:42:53.030" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30036" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-09T19:58:34.793" Score="24" ViewCount="4390" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many sources explicitly list Royal Flush as the highest poker hand (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardplayer.com/rules-of-poker/hand-rankings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;). This seems unnecessary - it's the highest hand anyway as the highest Straight Flush. When presenting a ruleset, unnecessary is harmful (e.g. it gives new players more to remember). So is there a good historical or game-mechanics reason why we often treat the Royal Flush as a special case?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ADDENDUM: Several answers have pointed out that video poker pays out more for royal flush than other straight flushes. Could this be the historical origin I'm looking for? While the term &amp;quot;royal flush&amp;quot; appears in dictionaries long before video poker existed, no one has yet provided evidence that the silly &lt;em&gt;presentation of royal flush as the highest hand in a full ranking of hands&lt;/em&gt; existed before video poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2021-08-02T14:53:49.007" LastActivityDate="2021-08-02T19:54:14.653" Title="Why is Royal Flush ever listed separately from Straight Flush?" Tags="|poker|history|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30036" CreationDate="2016-05-09T20:14:26.047" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a number of different hands that have a specific name. For example, A-2-3-4-5 is called a Wheel. The Royal Flush obviously gets its name from being the highest hand, and specifically having royalty in it (although one could argue so does a King high.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the mistake of ranking of Straight Flush being lower than 4 of a kind, this is easily dispelled by looking at the math behind them. There exist only 40 straight flushes (of which 4 are Royal) and there are 624 unique hands that rank as four-of-a-kind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason for it &lt;em&gt;persisting&lt;/em&gt; would be in Video Poker where a Royal Flush tends to pay out significantly higher than the other Straight Flushes. This doesn't answer the question about how it managed to still exist before Video Poker was around, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have had it conveyed to me recently that it's listed separately potentially due to wild-cards and how they affect the math - that perhaps a straight flush is not as difficult to acquire anymore where a Royal flush is. However I have not had an opportunity to run the math on it. I would welcome an addendum if someone does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="1500" LastEditDate="2020-07-20T17:46:25.010" LastActivityDate="2020-07-20T17:46:25.010" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30038" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-05-10T00:07:29.297" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Space Hulk&lt;/em&gt; is a miniatures game set in the Warhamer 40,000 universe involving a team of heavily-armored Space Marines fighting waves of Genestealer aliens. It has had several editions, all published by Games Workshop Ltd:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Edition (1989)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second Edition (1996)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third Edition (2009)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fourth Edition (2014)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_Hulk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:24:20.007" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:24:20.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30039" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-05-10T00:07:29.297" Score="0" Body="A miniatures game set in the Warhamer 40,000 universe involving a team of heavily-armored Space Marines fighting waves of Genestealer aliens" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:24:23.723" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:24:23.723" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30041" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30027" CreationDate="2016-05-10T00:27:23.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules as written do seem to imply you have to leave the room and re-enter. However I agree with you that this is silly - the spirit of the rules as I read them is that the lost companion gloms on to the first available explorer. So to resolve the ambiguity I would house-rule the relevant section:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If another explorer enters the room &lt;strong&gt;or starts their turn in the room&lt;/strong&gt;, he or she gains custody of that companion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or if you prefer more instantaneous glomming,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If one or more other explorers are already in the room, the next in turn order gains custody of that companion immediately&lt;/strong&gt;. Otherwise, the next explorer to enter the room does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T00:37:39.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T00:37:39.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30024" CreationDate="2016-05-10T04:01:07.560" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fantasy Flight Games doesn't currently have a judge program, the closest thing they have are the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/82/0b/820bc81b-e424-437a-af1a-e28fed5896f3/adn-floor-rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;floor rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However at the start of 2015 they announced their intent to setup something like a judge program sometime this year, with a trial starting in the US initially.&#xA;It's possible they're delaying the program to see what happens with the Magic Judge system after the currently running lawsuits are settled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T04:01:07.560" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26837" CreationDate="2016-05-10T04:33:31.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a variation on the classic Battleship game, mostly played in the same way as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are possibly two versions as the patent for the game (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com.au/patents/US2058079&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;US2058079&lt;/a&gt;) describes a different layout to the one that I've encountered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T04:33:31.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23750" CreationDate="2016-05-10T11:59:30.870" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nope the CMC has to do with the mana cost as it is printed on the card itself. There are many cards that may add or reduce the actual mana spent to cast a card but that does not change the CMC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one exception. When you have cards that have X in there mana cost X is considered 0 in regards to the CMC everywhere except when the spell is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for instance a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Blaze&quot;&gt;Blaze&lt;/a&gt; with X equal to four is a legal target for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Disdainful%20Stroke&quot;&gt;Disdainful Stroke&lt;/a&gt; (because it has a CMC of five while on the stack.) but for all other purposes Blaze has a CMC of one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T11:59:30.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30030" CreationDate="2016-05-10T16:23:46.373" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to getting more cards for the deck, have more people go at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This concept works for games of 8, 9, 10, and 12 players. Games of 7 and 11 present a prime problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plan. Have two or three players kick open the door at the same time. Each takes a card off the top of the Door pile, but keeps it face down in front of them. Then, they kick it open simultaneously, and commence the fighting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The active players should be equally separated around the table. In their seating positions, 1 through X, the bolded seats are active. As an example, consider 8 and 9:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;8: &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; 2 3 4 &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; 6 7 8 &lt;em&gt;divisible by 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;9: 1 &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; 3 4 &lt;strong&gt;5&lt;/strong&gt; 6 7 &lt;strong&gt;8&lt;/strong&gt; 9  &lt;em&gt;divisible by 3&lt;/em&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game of 10 players would be similar to one by 8, while 12 could follow either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An additional level of complexity could be added by limiting the range a player has. For a game with 2 active players, an active player and those sitting right next to him can't hamper or aid the other active player. In a game with 3 active players, the non-active players can only target the active player immediately to their left and right, but not the far player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-05-10T18:19:16.937" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T18:19:16.937" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30030" CreationDate="2016-05-10T17:20:06.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You obviously need to get more cards for one, but one solution I have used is to make it so that players have a limited number of lives. the limit is arbitrary, so long as there is a set number. For example: say I am in a game of 12 players and we all get 3 lives. After a while people will start dying and there will be (a lot of) looting going on. After you die 3 times, you lose and anything that was not looted (as can happen once the number of players starts to drop)gets set aside or discarded. You would want to keep items to the side if you want them to still be involved as an undead. This last rule is just to make the losing players feel included, but basically one losing player at a time can mess with a player that is still alive until they are slain. Then that player can loot that player instead of taking treasure. You &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; apply this rule to all games, but it is most useful in large player games when you want to make sure everyone feels involved. If everyone happens to die, but some are still &quot;undead players&quot; they can come back in to the game. Slain players are still out though because they weren't munchkinly enough. This is just my personal preference for large player games, but you might find it useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-05-10T17:20:06.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30048" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2016-05-11T07:15:09.790" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've recently been playing with 5 and 6 players, first to 3 favours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 5 player game, add a Guard, a Priest and a Baron just to pad the deck a bit.  This seemed to work seamlessly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 6 player game, on top of the above, also add another Guard, a King and a Countess.  This worked well, but we found that the strategies started to change.  The Countess is more confusing because you discard it if you have one of 2 Princes, 2 Kings, the other Countess or the Princess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We found that 7 and 8 players games became simultaneously more random and more deadly.  Strategies started to break down and the Baron became a liability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1599" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T07:15:09.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30049" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30055" CreationDate="2016-05-11T09:05:04.247" Score="6" ViewCount="163" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules seem to imply that people cannot call two or more tichus of the same kind. Doing this would also take the fun out of the game, as the first player to have a strong hand simply calls for enough tichus to reach the limit and win (or lose, if unlucky) the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;grand&lt;/em&gt; tichu, however, is presented as an additional mechanism. Does this mean that I can go for both and score 300 bonus points in a single round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16176" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T02:05:55.223" Title="Can I go for both Tichu types in one round?" Tags="|tichu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2016-05-11T15:18:07.667" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I thought that it came from the movie Unforgiven, where the barely literate sheriff reads aloud &quot;The Duke of Doom&quot; as The Duck of Doom*.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it may not have been &quot;of Doom&quot; as my memory is faulty but he definitely pronounced Duke as Duck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16178" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T15:18:07.667" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30053" CreationDate="2016-05-11T17:56:03.567" Score="4" ViewCount="1075" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the card rulings on Gatherer, I can't, say, fetch &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Reveillark&quot;&gt;Reveillark&lt;/a&gt; from my deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bring%20to%20Light&quot;&gt;Bring to Light&lt;/a&gt;, and then cast it for its Evoke cost instead (which is what I was hoping to do). While this is applicable to all alternative costs, what rules prevent BtL from allowing this, when, according to the card text, all it seems to care about is whether or not the CMC is less than or equal to the number of colors used to play it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not trying to bring this ruling into question, as disappointing as it may be, I just want to understand the logic involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16182" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T19:25:58.560" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T19:25:58.560" Title="Why can't I play a card for its alternative cost after searching for it with Bring to Light?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30051" CreationDate="2016-05-11T18:02:20.900" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Casting a spell without paying its mana cost &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; an alternative cost (as is Evoke), and you can only use one alternative cost. Bring to Light only allows you to cast it with that one specific alternate cost (i.e. &quot;free&quot;), so you can't use a different one, even if you wanted to use the Evoke cost &lt;em&gt;instead of&lt;/em&gt; the free cost - you don't have permission to cast the spell that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.9. Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or &lt;strong&gt;“You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.”&lt;/strong&gt; Note that some alternative costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.9a Only one alternative cost can be applied to any one spell as it’s being cast. The controller of the spell announces his or her intentions to pay that cost as described in rule 601.2b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T18:19:08.233" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:19:08.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30053" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30051" CreationDate="2016-05-11T18:03:15.030" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is because Bring to Light and Evoke are both alternate costs, and you can only choose one alternate cost when casting a spell. Since Bring to Light is what is giving you permission to cast the Revilark in the first place you have to use its alternative cost, you can't Evoke it (by paying mana) off of Bring to Light. Compare this to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Omniscience&quot;&gt;Omniscience&lt;/a&gt; which also gives your Revilark an alternate cost, in this case you could choose to cast it without paying its mana cost or pay its Evoke cost but not not both (paying no mana for its Evoke cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.9.&lt;/strong&gt; Some spells have alternative costs. An alternative cost is a cost listed in a spell’s text, or applied to it from another effect, that its controller may pay rather than paying the spell’s mana cost. Alternative costs are usually phrased, “You may [action] rather than pay [this object’s] mana cost,” or &lt;strong&gt;“You may cast [this object] without paying its mana cost.”&lt;/strong&gt; Note that some alternative costs are listed in keywords; see rule 702.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.9a&lt;/strong&gt; Only one alternative cost can be applied to any one spell as it’s being cast. The controller of the spell announces his or her intentions to pay that cost as described in rule 601.2b.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.73a&lt;/strong&gt; Evoke represents two abilities: a static ability that functions in any zone from which the card with evoke can be cast and a triggered ability that functions on the battlefield. “Evoke [cost]” means “You may cast this card by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost” and “When this permanent enters the battlefield, if its evoke cost was paid, its controller sacrifices it.” &lt;strong&gt;Paying a card’s evoke cost follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2f–h.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T18:23:23.480" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:23:23.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14874" CreationDate="2016-05-11T18:10:34.537" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you read the design diary of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/lost-legacy/lost-legacy-design-diary/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lost Legacy&lt;/a&gt; (a game designed to be in the same system, from a games mechanics perspective, as Love Letter) you'll note it's pretty similar. It also has explicit rules on how to incorporate more players (because it's a series of games and there are more)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/lost-legacy/starship/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lost Legacy&lt;/a&gt; &amp;quot;MegaMix Set&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This variant allows up to six players to play the game. Use the following guidelines to create a set of 31 cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use all the cards in this set (&lt;em&gt;16 cards&lt;/em&gt;) and one expansion set (&lt;em&gt;16 cards again. Expansions for Lost Legacy are essentialy stand alone games. Each it's own variation on the Love Letter formula&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove one of the Lost Legacy cards (&lt;em&gt;Princess would be the closest analogy&lt;/em&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If players with, it's perfectly possible to play with a Megamix Set even with only 2-4 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.alderac.com/lost-legacy/files/2014/04/LL-Starship_rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lost Legacy Rulesbook Page 10&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Love Letter you could simply combine two decks and remove the extra princess and you should be able to fit six players comfortably. If you enjoy Love Letter might I suggest the only SLIGHTLY more advanced Love Legacy series. It takes the same mechanics of Love Letter and makes the game a little less repetitive plus it also also expansions that add even more spice to the game beyond mere cosmetic changes as we see so often in Love Letter sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Love Letter is at the end of the day a micro game that probably shouldn't expand the player count because a lot of what makes the game works is the 4 player cap. With more players the tension in target selection is changed. The despiration to knock out a player can get replaced with the hopelessnes of knowing there are too many players to knock them out. It's a very tight and very well designed microgame.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T18:10:34.537" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30049" CreationDate="2016-05-11T19:37:25.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can only call one type of Tichu per hand.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Honestly, I spent an inordinate amount of time looking at different rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.redmeeple.com/site/images/Rules/tichu-Rules(EN).PDF&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamecabinet.com/rules/Tichu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.fatamorgana.ch/tichu/tichu_english.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tichu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;). Ultimately, none of these explicitly state whether a player is allowed to call both types of Tichu, but all of them imply it. I finally found one &lt;a href=&quot;http://scv.bu.edu/~aarondf/Games/Tichu/Tichu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;source&lt;/a&gt; with this wording after Grand Tichu:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A single player may not call both a &quot;Grand Tichu&quot; and a standard &quot;Tichu&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to explicitly call out what the other rule sets imply: after calling a Grand Tichu, you cannot call a small Tichu, and vice versa (assuming you're calling a small Tichu before you see nine cards). The &lt;a href=&quot;http://scv.bu.edu/~aarondf/Games/Tichu/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt; these rules come from also has some strategy documents that appear to support it's claim that two Tichus cannot be called by a single player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a separate note, part of the reason this might not be explicitly called out in many rule sets is because they are translations. I don't read German, but someone might be able to verify that the rules as originally written indicate that only one Tichu can be called, and translations failed to pick up on this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T19:37:25.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30056" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30057" CreationDate="2016-05-11T19:44:13.767" Score="2" ViewCount="380" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Vryn%20Wingmare&quot;&gt;Vryn Wingmare&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield.  When I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Bring%20to%20Light&quot;&gt;Bring to Light&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I pay 1 extra for the Bring to Light?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I pay 1 extra for the (noncreature) spell I find?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If #2 applies and I pay with 5 colors, can I search a 6 CMC spell?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If there was a sixth color of mana, would I be able to get a 6 CMC spell ( or 7 CMC, given the answer to #4)?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T20:10:29.093" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T16:10:10.997" Title="How much does Vryn Wingmare increase the cost of my Bring to Light by?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30057" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30056" CreationDate="2016-05-11T19:55:30.223" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;What does it cost?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will end up paying 7 mana total, 6 for Bring to Light and 1 for the spell you find with it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is you cast Bring to Light you determine the cost of paying the spell, in this case the mana cost + the cost increase so you will pay 6 total mana for it. Then when Bring to Light resolves you go through the cost determination for the new spell, in this case the alternative cost from bring to light + the cost increase so you will pay {1} for the second spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2f&lt;/strong&gt; The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. The &lt;strong&gt;total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost&lt;/strong&gt; (as determined in rule 601.2b), &lt;strong&gt;plus&lt;/strong&gt; all additional costs and &lt;strong&gt;cost increases&lt;/strong&gt;, and minus all cost reductions. If multiple cost reductions apply, the player may apply them in any order. If the mana component of the total cost is reduced to nothing by cost reduction effects, it is considered to be {0}. It can’t be reduced to less than {0}. Once the total cost is determined, any effects that directly affect the total cost are applied. Then the resulting total cost becomes “locked in.” If effects would change the total cost after this time, they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What can I search for?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what you can search for, the Wingmare does not effect the CMC of cards, only the cost to cast them. So if you pay 5 different colors you can find a spell with a CMC of up to 5 (and not up to 4 if the Wingmare effected it). If you are playing with Un-cards so there are 6+ colors you could search for cards with a CMC of 6 assuming you have a way to add colors like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=73953&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pink&lt;/a&gt; to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3.&lt;/strong&gt; The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.4.&lt;/strong&gt; Any additional cost listed in an object’s rules text or imposed by an effect isn’t part of the mana cost. (See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”) Such costs are paid at the same time as the spell’s other costs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Gatherer Rulings on Bring to Light:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there are any alternative or additional costs to cast a spell with a converge ability, the mana spent to pay those costs will count. For example, if an effect makes sorcery spells cost {1} more to cast, you could pay {W}{U}{B}{R} to cast Radiant Flames and deal 4 damage to each creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T20:25:49.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30059" CreationDate="2016-05-11T20:54:52.150" Score="13" ViewCount="1092" Body="&lt;p&gt;A situation was presented with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Skyshroud%20Elf&quot;&gt;Skyshroud Elf&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202622&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ashnod's Altar&lt;/a&gt;: apparently, you could generate WW or RR by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Elf's filter ability ({1}: Add {R} or {W})&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Elf's filter ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Altar to generate {2}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve filter ability 1 (or 2?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve other filter ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, mana abilities don't use the stack, and once activated they resolve immediately. So, how can you &amp;quot;respond&amp;quot; to a mana ability in this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;605.3b&lt;/strong&gt; An activated mana ability doesn’t go on the stack, so it can’t be targeted, countered, or otherwise responded to. Rather, it resolves immediately after it is activated&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Credit to &lt;a href=&quot;https://pucatrade.com/blog/2016/judgecorner7&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pucatrade&lt;/a&gt; for the situation&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-05-11T21:17:57.473" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T20:18:43.043" Title="When casting a spell, how can a mana ability be paid with another mana ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30058" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:09:23.627" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;It used to be possible to do this by activating the Elf's filter ability during the process of activating the same ability, taking advantage of the fact that one of the steps of  casting a spell or activating an ability is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 601.2g&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the total cost includes a mana payment, the player then has a chance to activate mana abilities (see rule 605, “Mana Abilities”). Mana abilities must be activated before costs are paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Mana_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 605.3c&lt;/a&gt; introduced in Eldritch Mood explicitly forbids the specific sequence in the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a player begins to activate a mana ability, that ability can’t be activated again until it has resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is still possible to do essentially the same thing in a variant scenario where a single creature has two separate instances of the Skyshroud Elf's ability. For example, if you control Ashnod's Altar and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNecrotic%20Ooze%5d&quot;&gt;Necrotic Ooze&lt;/a&gt;, and your graveyard has two copies of Skyshroud Elf in it, then you can accomplish the same thing by doing this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Ooze's first filter ability. When you get to step 601.2g of the activation process, do the following:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate the Ooze's second filter ability. When you get to step 601.2g of this ability's activation process, do the following:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Ashnod's Altar's ability by sacrificing the Ooze. Now you have {C}{C} in your mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay for the second filter ability with {C} and let the ability resolve, adding {W} or {R} to your mana pool. Now you have {C} and {W} or {R} in your mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay for the original filter ability with {C} and let the ability resolve to add another {W} or {R} to your mana pool.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By doing this, you end up with two mana in any combination of {W} and {R} to your mana pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2019-10-09T20:18:43.043" LastActivityDate="2019-10-09T20:18:43.043" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30058" CreationDate="2016-05-11T21:24:00.240" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;116.1d A player may activate a mana ability whenever he or she has priority, whenever he or she is casting a spell or activating an ability that requires a mana payment, or whenever a rule or effect asks for a mana payment (&lt;strong&gt;even in the middle of&lt;/strong&gt; casting or resolving a spell or &lt;strong&gt;activating or resolving an ability&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You announce the first activation of the Elf, then before you pay the costs of that first activation, you announce the second activation. You now have to pay {2}, which you do by sacrificing the elf to the Altar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T21:24:00.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30058" CreationDate="2016-05-11T22:40:27.497" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No this doesn't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;602.2. To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. Only an object’s controller (or its owner, if it doesn’t have a controller) can activate its activated ability unless the object specifically says otherwise. Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in order. &lt;strong&gt;If, at any point during the activation of an ability, a player is unable to comply with any of those steps, the activation is illegal; the game returns to the moment before that ability started to be activated&lt;/strong&gt; (see rule 717, “Handling Illegal Actions”). Announcements and payments can’t be altered after they’ve been made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;emphasis added&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana abilities resolve immediately (605.3b), but you must pay for them first. There is no way to interrupt the activation process; the game rules require one to complete the casting/activation process or rewind the game (602.2; 601.2 for spells)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-11T22:47:54.753" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-12T00:30:44.383" Score="5" ViewCount="4106" Body="&lt;p&gt;My comp sci class currently is on the topic of AIs and we're tasked to write an AI for Labyrinth (the Ravensburger game) and have them play each other to see who wrote the best AI. As someone who's never heard of the game or even touched before I can only think of a limited amount of strategy for the game. Can anyone who has played Labyrinth bestow some common and advanced strategies upon me? Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16185" LastEditorUserId="19922" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T06:41:26.363" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T06:41:26.363" Title="What are some basic strategies for Labyrinth?" Tags="|labyrinth|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30063" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30065" CreationDate="2016-05-12T00:46:25.930" Score="3" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got my first model for X-Wing Minis (an E-Wing) and received a card in the box called &quot;Advanced Sensors&quot;. It's a 3-point card granting &quot;&lt;strong&gt;...1 free action...&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Immediately before you reveal your maneuver,...&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. My question is &lt;strong&gt;What can I do as a Free Action using this card?&lt;/strong&gt; All I can find in the rule book is that it is &quot;something specified in a card or a game type&quot; and nothing else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T19:14:27.927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T19:38:47.897" Title="What actions can be taken as a free action?" Tags="|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30062" CreationDate="2016-05-12T06:17:45.420" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few tips:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Static tiles are more stable (duh!), so going there is a bit more predictable. If you have goals on those, they have lower priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Static tiles are more stable (again), so staying on a static tile at the end of your turn will assure you you are at the same place when you begin the next one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Manhattan distance (dx + dy) may be important because being close to a goal makes it easier to reach if you are not sure of what the board will look like on your next turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't forget to use the &quot;shortcut&quot;: if you stand at the edge of the board and you are pushed out, you teleport to the other side.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Having a large reachable zone at the beginning of your turn allows you to adapt easily: if you can go to a lot of places, you can change your mind when trouble arrive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play the anti-game. Even though I would never recommend that to any living player, as your goal here is clearly to win and not at all to have fun while doing it, crush your opponents completely without mercy! Sometimes, reaching your goal is more complicated that putting your opponent(s) in a tricky situation. Keep in mind who is about to win and don't be nice with him (or should I say &quot;it&quot;?) Everything that I said higher can be applied negatively to the others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="1369" LastEditDate="2016-05-17T07:03:38.407" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T07:03:38.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30063" CreationDate="2016-05-12T07:17:56.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Free actions are actions that are specified on &lt;strong&gt;the ship's action bar&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;other cards&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;special mission rules&lt;/strong&gt;. You can normally only perform actions during the Perform Action step of the Activation phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advanced Sensors&lt;/strong&gt; allows you to perform any one of these free actions outside of the regular step at the cost of skipping that step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the X-Wing Rules &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/40/b4/40b44d5f-7a06-406c-ae6e-183c5297e796/swx36_rulesreference.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;reference&lt;/a&gt; (pg 12)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A free action is an action granted to a ship through a card ability or other effect. It does not count as the one standard action that a ship performs during the “Perform Action” step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• A stressed ship cannot perform free actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• A ship can perform free actions even if it skipped its “Perform Action” step due to overlapping an asteroid obstacle or another game effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• If a ship is specifically granted a free barrel roll action or a free boost action and cannot complete the action in the desired direction, it may choose a different direction. It cannot choose to perform a different action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T19:38:47.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5168" CreationDate="2016-05-12T13:48:09.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another advantage of ducking the first round is that it prevents the opponents from signaling to each other.  Suppose you have Axx opposite Kxxxx, and you play the Ace, then the King, then another.  One defender will win &lt;em&gt;and his partner will discard;&lt;/em&gt; the discard will be a signal to help the winner know &lt;strong&gt;exactly&lt;/strong&gt; what suit to play next.  But if you begin right away by ducking a trick, one opponent will win but his partner had to follow suit.  They haven't had a chance to make a useful signal yet; they don't know how many cards you hold in this suit, and the opponent who wins may lead back the wrong suit and end up helping you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, when playing against strong players, it's good to give them their tricks early, before they've had a chance to figure out everyone's cards. Every time you show out of a suit or an opponent shows out of a suit and discards, it helps expert opps visualize the rest of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16175" LastActivityDate="2016-05-12T13:48:09.260" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30067" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T05:16:36.430" Score="3" ViewCount="1142" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm considering a house rule where discarded Destination cards are always shuffled into the deck instead of returned to the bottom. The pros and cons seem balanced to me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pros :-&#xA;We may need the cards that someone else discards. By shuffling them in, we have a higher chance of getting them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cons :-&#xA;Cards that we discard come back to us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts and comments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16194" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T06:06:15.133" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T15:33:44.493" Title="Shuffle destination cards in Ticket to Ride" Tags="|house-rules|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30068" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30067" CreationDate="2016-05-13T05:52:56.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would stick with the original rules. The actual effect your house rule has on game balance is probably negligible. Most of the time you won't end up drawing anyone's discard anyway, and even when you do it's only slightly better on average than a random card (unless you were the one who discarded it, in which case it's a lot worse). Thus even if balance is fractionally improved (and I'm not convinced it is), I'd focus instead on a few other effects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shuffling a lot is annoying and makes the game take longer. (thanks @Othya for pointing this out in the comments)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For me at least, drawing my own discard would feel like the game giving me the middle finger - sure there are other useless cards I could have drawn, but I'd feel particularly screwed over by getting the same worthless card twice.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, I don't quite use the original rules myself - I make a separate discard pile and then shuffle it when the deck runs out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T15:33:44.493" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T15:33:44.493" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12946" CreationDate="2016-05-13T12:44:33.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Given the game limitations caused by Barry's variant, and the vast number of resources that can be found contradicting her, I would think that the common rule is to place Kings at the bottom of columns.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could do an exhaustive internet search for Baker's Dozen rules and never see the variant that Barry describes in her book. Other books, such as Hoyles, also follow the rule that Kings go to the bottom of a column. It seems that Barry is alone in her variation, and I think that's because it makes a more difficult game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baker%27s_Dozen_%28solitaire%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;common rules of Baker's Dozen&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;once all cards are taken out of a column, the column can never be filled.&quot; The reason you move all Kings to the bottom of columns is to ensure that the game is potentially solvable. If you don't move Kings to the bottom, they'll likely sit on top of differently suited cards and you'll have to clear the entire suit of that King before being able to start on the suit or suits it's covering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you deal a tableau and it has a column (bottom to top) {2D} {7H} {9C} {KC}, under the common rules you'd rearrange to {KC} {2D} {7H} {9C}. In this case, you'll have a fairly easy time building up your columns and foundation piles. But in Barry's variant, you'd rearrange to {2D} {7H} {KC} {9C}. Before you can even move the two of diamonds and seven of hearts, you have to clear the entire club suit to the foundation piles. This gives you far less maneuverability over the course of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's possible you can get into a similar situation using the common rules, although the implications aren't as severe; you could have a pile that looks like {2S} {6D} {JC} {QS}, so you need to move the Queen and Jack in order to get to the lower cards. But with the common rules, there will be a King somewhere to move those cards to. If Kings aren't at the bottom of columns, and there is never anywhere to move them because columns can't be reused once depleted, then cards can get stuck beneath them until that King's suit is cleared.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I haven't found a copy of Barry's book, but there is the possibility that she allows cards to be moved into empty tableau spaces, like in Spanish Patience. If that's the case, then her description would seem to fall somewhere between the two games. It would also negate the difficulties caused by allowing Kings to sit above other cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T13:23:53.517" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:23:53.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14412" CreationDate="2016-05-13T13:26:58.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is this one for 2 players from Board Game Geek and is an enjoyable, relatively short Firefly scenario.......&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1049020/slaying-dragon-co-op-story-card-two-players&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1049020/slaying-dragon-co-op-story-card-two-players&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Plus, this link leads to an extra 8 fan made story cards. They are well worth checking out as the base game only comes with 6 story cards....and those BGG Firefly fans are very creative. One of the scenarios is based on 'The Magnificent Seven', which,of course, is itself based on 'The Seven Samurai'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/107073/firefly-goalset-card-templates&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/107073/firefly-goalset-card-templates&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16197" LastEditorUserId="16197" LastEditDate="2016-05-13T20:19:18.440" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T20:19:18.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20538" CreationDate="2016-05-13T13:35:47.953" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We usually play with &lt;em&gt;Age of empire&lt;/em&gt; option and &lt;em&gt;variant strategy card&lt;/em&gt;, using this set of strategy cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;initiative&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;diplomacy II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;political&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;logistic&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;trade II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;warfare&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;technology II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;imperial II&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It leads to very smooth matches, so it became our standard set up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T13:35:47.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30074" CreationDate="2016-05-13T16:27:56.030" Score="9" ViewCount="2281" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps I should be asking this on one of the math sites rather than here, but I reckon cardplayers would know: when my wife and I play Skip-Bo and things aren't going her way, she claims that I &quot;didn't shuffle the cards well (long) enough.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it may be true that I only shuffled the cards a few times (rather than dozens), my assertion is that it doesn't really matter, as far as who has the advantage - we're both playing with the same &quot;badly shuffled&quot; cards, so it's an &quot;even playing field.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I wrong? Is either player at a disadvantage with insufficienlty shuffled cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am even tempted to not shuffle at all between game 1 and game 2 to see how that turns out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16201" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-08-30T14:02:08.133" LastActivityDate="2018-08-31T04:06:27.890" Title="Is either player at a disadvantage when cards &quot;aren't' shuffled well enough&quot;?" Tags="|playing-cards|shuffling|random|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30074" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30073" CreationDate="2016-05-13T17:10:52.823" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As long as neither player has information about the order of cards in a deck of cards, no player can gain an advantage from a &quot;bad&quot; shuffle.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;bad&quot; shuffle could be defined as a shuffle that does not, by a reasonable standard, erase all information remaining from the end of the previous game, most notably the order of cards. This does not mean that there is no recognizable order to the cards, only that neither player knows in what order the deck is, including after a player has seen a part of the deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a particular game produces long streaks of ordered cards on the table, and a subsequent shuffle before the next game does not break up that order, then there is the potential that information remains to be gained in the next game, and a possible advantage for one player. The amount of shuffling needed to prevent that depends on the technique used and the amount of order that is present (e.g. how large are the blocks of ordered cards the game typically produces).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your problem with the half-serious allegations of negligience or even cheating by your wife: That question is not likely to be resolved with better shuffling alone, it's about venting her frustration after losing - she is not going to complain about a bad shuffle if she wins. Simply offer to let her shuffle the deck whenever she wants, or at least let her cut the deck before the game starts. This involves her in the shuffling process and she has no more reason to take insufficient shuffling as an excuse.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T17:10:52.823" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30075" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30076" CreationDate="2016-05-13T18:38:59.553" Score="5" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am a recent college grad without many friends who play MTG, but I am interested in starting to play again. I am familiar with most of the rules, including things like turn phases and the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have only played casually and do not know where to find any of my old cards. I am looking for a place to play with other people, and the first two things that come to mind are online applications and local board game clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing that I am not sure about is how to stay up to date on the &quot;relevant&quot; cards. I have always been a casual player, mixing cards from 10 years ago with cards I just found in the newest release. I have heard that many players nowadays prefer only making decks with a limited pool of cards to choose from, but I do not know the names of the sets or the methods by which cards are phased out/in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, I have three questions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;What are the available online communities for MTG?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How can I stay up to date on the current set of cards that might be used to play in more serious games and tournaments?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Is there anything else that a casual Magic player looking to return to the game in a more serious way should know?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12404" LastActivityDate="2018-07-13T18:53:49.077" Title="Getting started (Advanced) with Magic: The Gathering, and where to play" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2018-07-13T21:48:05.733" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30075" CreationDate="2016-05-13T19:20:23.120" Score="5" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Online Communities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a variety of online forums for discussing Magic, some more popular ones are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Salvation&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-forum/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TappedOut&lt;/a&gt; (This one also has a popular deck builder you can use to share and get comments on decks you build)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgfanatic.com/forum/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Fanatic&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/Forum/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Commander/EDH&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many more out there, this is just a few from a search for 'mtg forums'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Staying up to date&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many of the above discussion forums have sections for MTG news, including spoilers for new sets (which officially start about 2-3 weeks before the set's pre-release), announcements of upcoming products, changes to banned lists, and various other Magic related info. You can also find most if not all of it from the official &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic website&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you just want to know what is in Standard you can use the &lt;a href=&quot;http://whatsinstandard.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;What is in Standard?&lt;/a&gt; site and it will tell you. Note that you can use any printing of a card as long as it was printed in one of the Standard legal sets (So you can currently use the Shards of Alara version of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Knight%20of%20the%20White%20Orchid&quot;&gt;Knight of the White Orchid&lt;/a&gt; since it was also printed in Magic Origins which is legal in Standard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Other useful info&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To find the location of a store to play at you can use Wizard's &lt;a href=&quot;http://locator.wizards.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Event Locator&lt;/a&gt;. To find lists of popular decks in a variety of formats you can use sites like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/content/decklists/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Starcity games&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.tcgplayer.com/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;TCGPlayer&lt;/a&gt;. Generally sites with decklists will also have various strategy articles and other information like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T19:20:23.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30078" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30056" CreationDate="2016-05-13T20:12:29.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To add to Diego's answer, you will need to pay 6 for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBring%20to%20Light%5d&quot;&gt;Bring to Light&lt;/a&gt; and 1 additional for a non creature spell tutored with it (for a total of 7 Mana). The reason that even though Bring to Light states &quot;You may cast that card without paying its mana cost.&quot; you must pay extra is covered in &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.gamepedia.com/Alternative_cost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the comprehensive rules here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;117.9d&lt;/strong&gt;: If an alternative cost is being paid to cast a spell, any additional costs, cost increases, and cost reductions that affect that spell are applied to that alternative cost. (See rule 601.2f.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVryn%20Wingmare%5d&quot;&gt;Vryn Wingmare&lt;/a&gt; static ability is applied when you try to cast whatever non-creature spell you have tutored for, as well as when you cast Bring to Light.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15514" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2017-10-12T16:10:10.997" LastActivityDate="2017-10-12T16:10:10.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-13T21:59:43.890" Score="1" ViewCount="860" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friends recently got into a heated argument over a rules interaction. One player had a 2/2 creature, and responded to the opponent's Lightning Bolt targeting it with a Mutagenic Growth. The player casting Lightning Bolt claimed that the creature died later, because the pump spell wore off at the end step, but damage was not removed until the cleanup step. I am the most experienced player of our group and told him that is sort of right, but state based actions are not checked at that time, so the creature lives. What actually happens here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15796" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T22:04:25.853" Title="How do pump spells interact with damage at end of turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-14T06:31:37.863" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30079" CreationDate="2016-05-13T22:04:25.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...the pump spell wore off at the end step, but damage was not removed until the cleanup step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's your problem. &amp;quot;...until end of turn&amp;quot; actually means until the cleanup step - the actual end of the turn, not just the end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;514&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;514.1 [discard to maximum hand size]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;514.2. Second, the following actions happen simultaneously: all damage marked on permanents (including phased-out permanents) is removed and all “until end of turn” and “this turn” effects end. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the damage and the pump go away at the same time, and all is well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T22:04:25.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30073" CreationDate="2016-05-13T23:37:04.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is going to depend on how you are shuffling the cards. If you are doing a standard riffle shuffle then as long as you can do a decent shuffle you should not need to do it more then 7 times. In most games shuffling the deck 3-4 time is enough to provide the randomness that the game needs. It should also be noted that even if you get streaks of cards that is not a sign that the deck is not random enough. It is easy to forget that random can still produce streaks that do not appear random.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Back to the original question, can a bad shuffle put a player at a disadvantage? Yes, but so can a good shuffle as the issue will be that one player will be at a disadvantage if they don't get the cards they need but the other players do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last thing to remember is that while you want to perform a good shuffle there comes a point where you have shuffled to much and can undo the work you have done.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is some information that might help you out some more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.math.hmc.edu/funfacts/ffiles/20002.4-6.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Seven Shuffles&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This talks about randomizing a deck of cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shuffling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shuffling&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Wiki article with different shuffling techniques&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dartmouth.edu/~chance/teaching_aids/Mann.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;How many times should you shuffle a deck of card&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Really detailed paper about math of shuffling a deck of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.math.hmc.edu/funfacts/ffiles/20001.1-6.shtml&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Perfect Shuffles&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;With the perfect shuffle, cut the deck in half and interlace every other card it takes only 8 shuffles to restore the deck the original order&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-05-13T23:37:04.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30082" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30073" CreationDate="2016-05-14T03:18:10.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are certainly games in which a bad shuffle can benefit one player. I remember playing &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ligretto&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Ligretto&lt;/a&gt;, also called Dutch Blitz, against my teenage nieces who were winning far more frequently than even teenage reflexes would indicate likely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Ligretto the cards end up stacked in order, and there is a distinct advantage to having low cards on the top of your playing pile. It turned out that my nieces were giving their own cards only the most perfunctory shuffle possible, essentially just turning them over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1012" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T03:18:10.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7140" CreationDate="2016-05-14T06:02:17.630" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the overlord book, the ivory X platoons have anti-tank 3 and firepower 6&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16206" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T06:02:17.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30084" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T06:58:11.287" Score="0" ViewCount="234" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a multi-faceted question and revolves around Nephren-Ka's reckoning which says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each investigator may move 1 space toward the Bent Pyramid. Then each investigator that did not move loses 1 Sanity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I end up moved to the Bent Pyramid, I can spend 0 actions moving away from it as far as Tel El-Amarna, Cairo, or Alexandria as a function of the rule enabling me to &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...move along any number of interconnected Local paths without performing an action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the reckoning hits when I am in Cairo, I end up moving one space toward the Bent Pyramid and end up in The Pyramids, correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems trivially easy to avoid being caught there. Am I misunderstanding any part of this?  Part of my confusion may be not understanding why being drawn toward the Bent Pyramid is such a big deal apart from some of the time working against the movement objectives of my investigators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T21:02:37.290" Title="Can investigators easily avoid being stuck in the Bent Pyramid and avoid the Sanity loss from Nephre-Ka's reckoning?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-under-the-pyramids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30085" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:21:58.027" Score="1" ViewCount="1945" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say you have a flying creature and your opponent has nothing with flying or reach. Could you attack any one of his creatures you choose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16210" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T01:17:50.647" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T01:17:50.647" Title="Can you attack any creature of your opponents with flying if he can't block it" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30085" CreationDate="2016-05-14T16:35:14.883" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, because you don't attack creatures in Magic; you attack &lt;em&gt;players&lt;/em&gt; (or planeswalkers), and then the player being attacked can choose to block (or not block) your attacking creatures with their creatures if able.  If your opponent has nothing with flying or reach, they will be unable to block an attacking flyer, and so your flyer will deal damage directly to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T16:35:14.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30087" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T17:42:30.603" Score="2" ViewCount="1310" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have 5-7 players, which is too much for one normal game and not enough for two. We could just deal less cards per player, but it would reduce the strategy involved. Are there any variants for using multiple decks? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, are there any obvious problems with just dealing out 65-91 cards from two combined decks? We're  not concerned with the increased game length due to having more players. I'd imagine cards playing the same value would tie and therefore wouldn't be allowed after each other (i.e. you can't play a 5 of clubs on a 5 of clubs). This might also open up new poker hands (e.g. 5 of a kind)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16212" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T04:06:49.670" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T04:06:49.670" Title="Can you play Big Two with multiple decks for more than 4 players?" Tags="|big-two|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13037" CreationDate="2016-05-14T20:16:20.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I totally understand your frustration! What is difficult is that the rulebook speak about &quot;player board&quot;, &quot;the island&quot;, &quot;the city&quot;, &quot;player's tiles&quot;, &quot;San Juan&quot;, &quot;small city of San Juan&quot; and so on... If you mix them up, then the rulebook doesn't make sense...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that &quot;San Juan&quot; is not the same as &quot;the island&quot;! On &quot;the island&quot; there is 12 spaces, each for a plantation tile. In &quot;the city&quot; there is 12 spaces where you can place your buildings. Your &quot;player board&quot; consists of both &quot;the island&quot; and &quot;the city&quot;. &quot;San Juan&quot; or &quot;small city of San Juan&quot; is an own place, situated on &quot;the island&quot; but not the same as &quot;the island&quot;! On &quot;San Juan&quot; you can store your colonists if you cannot place your colonists on your &quot;player board&quot;. Thus: You have no empty circles on the buildings/plantations (the city) or plantation tiles (the island), but you still have a few colonists. What to do? You store them on &quot;San Juan&quot;, or also called in the rulebook &quot;small city of San Juan&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have this names sorted out, then the text is easy to understand: &#xA;&quot;No player may chose to place colonists in San Juan if he has empty circles on his player board. All empty circles must be filled, if possible.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16213" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T20:16:20.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30084" CreationDate="2016-05-14T21:02:37.290" Score="4" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You're being drawn there from anywhere on the board, not just from locations that have convenient local paths.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you're already on the Bent Pyramid, then you'll lose 1 Sanity as you did not move.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's not necessary a big deal. Some Ancient Ones have effects that are more thematic than hindering. I think this is the case here. Pretty often this effect helps investigators as it can move you into desired position, and you may take it into account while planning your travels.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-05-14T21:02:37.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30090" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-14T22:54:07.593" Score="0" ViewCount="622" Body="&lt;p&gt;The faq says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sister Mary and each other investigator on her space adds 1 to the result of each die rolled as part of an effect printed on a Condition card that has the BANE or BOON trait. This modification applies whether the die is rolled as part of a test or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Yes I see the grammar error with &quot;adds&quot; in there.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know this applies to testing whether to keep or discard the cards on a reckoning, but do we get to add 1 also to all tests and effective nullify the Curse and boost the Blessed to allow rolls of 3-6 as successes? This just seems so powerful!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T18:25:45.793" Title="Does sister Mary pass with rolls of 3-6 when Blessed and 5-6 when Cursed?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-under-the-pyramids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30091" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30114" CreationDate="2016-05-15T06:16:22.673" Score="1" ViewCount="33" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do riders (that aren't part of the peloton obviously) have to move at least the amount of their base movement, or can they opt not to move, or to move less than their base movement?  This is an edge case but might be useful if one is so far ahead that choosing not to move forms a blockade against a successive rider.  The english rules say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every racer will enjoy the benefits of a free base movement which varies according to his specialty&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This, literally read, implies each racer &lt;strong&gt;will and must&lt;/strong&gt; enjoy that benefit, but I don't know if something may have been lost in the translation if it is more clearly stated in its original language.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note further down it says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Every rider moves straight ahead or diagonally. It is forbidden to stay still or move to the side&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this is probably more a question of whether riders can choose to move less than their free base movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T14:08:49.377" Title="Do riders have to move at least the amount of their base movement?" Tags="|leader-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30090" CreationDate="2016-05-15T17:03:43.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;adds 1 to the result rolled &lt;strong&gt;as part of an effect printed on a Condition card&lt;/strong&gt; that has the BANE or BOON trait&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all tests in the game are printed on the Boon or Bane cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T17:03:43.093" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30094" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-15T20:46:12.073" Score="1" ViewCount="1914" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sheer%20Drop&quot;&gt;Sheer Drop&lt;/a&gt; (Destroy target tapped creature) and targeted a creature of mine with summoning sickness. Is a creature with summoning sickness considered tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16222" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T13:44:32.473" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T13:44:32.473" Title="Do creatures with summoning sickness count as tapped?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-05-16T13:46:32.360" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30094" CreationDate="2016-05-15T22:10:07.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Saying a creature has &quot;summoning sickness&quot; just means that it hasn't been under its controllers control since the beginning of their turn and it doesn't have haste. Such a creature cannot attack and cannot cause itself to become tapped (i.e. you can't pay a Tap or Untap cost in an ability on that creature - it can still become tapped or untapped by other sources).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;tapped creature&quot; simply means a creature which has been turned sideways for one reason or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, Sheer Drop only cares about whether or not the creature has been turned sideways, it doesn't care at all about when the creature entered the battlefield. If your creature is sick but hasn't been tapped, Sheer Drop can't target it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16223" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T22:10:07.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30096" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30097" CreationDate="2016-05-15T22:19:44.470" Score="4" ViewCount="742" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Clip%20Wings&quot;&gt;Clip Wings&lt;/a&gt; says you have to sacrifice a creature with flying. Assume the opponent has a non-flying creature (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rancid%20Rats&quot;&gt;Rancid Rats&lt;/a&gt; for example) enchanted with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=409758&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gryff's Boon&lt;/a&gt; (creature gains flying). Will Clip Wings kill the enchanted creature (Rancid Rats in this example)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16224" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T16:25:35.750" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:36:10.150" Title="Does &quot;creature with flying&quot; count creatures that gained flying from an enchantment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30096" CreationDate="2016-05-15T22:39:03.863" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. A &quot;creature with flying&quot; is any creature that currently has the ability &quot;flying&quot; for any reason - whether its own card text, an enchantment, or even a temporary source like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=366294&quot;&gt;Aerial Maneuver&lt;/a&gt; which grants flying until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-05-15T22:46:45.290" LastActivityDate="2016-05-15T22:46:45.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30098" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30103" CreationDate="2016-05-15T23:10:01.970" Score="1" ViewCount="63" Body="&lt;p&gt;So the rules state that you can place on another player's herd and that it must be placed on either end of the herd. However it doesn't not state who decides which end it goes on. The person playing the card or the owner of the herd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played with a decision of the person playing the card would get to choose, but we didn't find it clear enough to make a ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16225" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T10:38:22.460" Title="Unexploded Cows placing into another player's herd" Tags="|unexploded-cow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30099" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30101" CreationDate="2016-05-16T00:53:17.790" Score="7" ViewCount="854" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mercurial%20Pretender&quot;&gt;Mercurial Pretender&lt;/a&gt; on the board (copied a 4/4 creature)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B attacks with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Typhoid%20Rats&quot;&gt;Typhoid Rats&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A blocks Typhoid Rats with Mercurial Pretender&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A then pays 4 mana to &amp;quot;Return this creature to his owner's hand&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A returns Mercurial Pretender to his hand, then says Typhoid Rats dies and goes to graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B thinks that player A cannot both successfully block and return Mercurial Pretender to his hand, considering Typhoid Rats Deathtouch ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who is right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16226" LastEditorUserId="14810" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T05:44:56.513" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T08:15:26.510" Title="Mercurial Pretender and Typhoid Rats interaction" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30100" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2016-05-16T01:09:40.480" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Player B is right.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each combat damage step (First strike/double strike, then other creatures), all creatures deal their combat damage at the same time, and you don't get the chance to cast spells or activate abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T01:09:40.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2016-05-16T03:06:47.877" Score="19" Body="&lt;p&gt;As noted by Hackworth, Player B is correct &lt;em&gt;under the current rules&lt;/em&gt; that the Pretender can't kill the Rats if it is returned to hand. However, it did still &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/4168/16227&quot;&gt;block them successfully&lt;/a&gt; and the rats won't deal combat damage to Player A or anything else this combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One possible source of confusion in the situation is that it &lt;em&gt;used&lt;/em&gt; to work the way Player A thinks. You could &quot;put damage on the stack&quot; then play abilities in the combat damage step in response, before the damage resolved. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was removed with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Magic_2010&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2010&lt;/a&gt; major rules update (the one that also changed &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Lifelink&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lifelink&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Deathtouch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deathtouch&lt;/a&gt;). Now, player B is correct, because there is no place to respond between assigning and resolving damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16227" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T08:15:26.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30098" CreationDate="2016-05-16T10:38:22.460" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cheapass.com/sites/default/files/UXCRulesPDF.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;On your turn, you may rearrange your field as much as you want.&#xA;  However, you can not rearrange someone else’s field, &lt;strong&gt;so when you&#xA;  play a cow on someone, it must go at either end of the line (your&#xA;  choice&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, whoever plays a cow on someone else's herd, they decide on which end it goes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T10:38:22.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30104" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11535" CreationDate="2016-05-16T13:07:39.207" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;iMtG for iOS has full blown inventory management system linked with Deck Builder. It is completely free for people with collections which would fit in 3 binders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;iMtG is made by myself (as someone who cares), it has had regular database updates since 2011. It is important as many other MTG collection manager apps failed to keep updating their databases over the years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://geo.itunes.apple.com/us/app/imtg/id412798013?mt=8&amp;amp;at=10l74t&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://geo.itunes.apple.com/us/app/imtg/id412798013?mt=8&amp;amp;at=10l74t&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16229" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2017-10-15T14:25:36.873" LastActivityDate="2017-10-15T14:25:36.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31408" CreationDate="2016-05-16T16:17:09.567" Score="1" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;The spell Voltaic Discharge is said in the rules to target every creatures in the play area, including your own. That being said, and including the mages as creature, it seems right that it affects the opposing mage. However, if it attack your own wizard as well, its a rather poor choice of spell.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Am i wrong assuming it attacks your wizard?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;if not, how can this card be used intelligently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T17:40:43.773" Title="Mage Wars Academy - zone spells : do they attack mages?" Tags="|mage-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30108" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30109" CreationDate="2016-05-16T17:12:58.580" Score="3" ViewCount="3725" Body="&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;  Does a Faded Figure also count as a cube for the purpose of removing a cube? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example the Funded Event card Remote Treatment, which allows removal of 2 cubes from anywhere on the board, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;can this be used to remove Faded Figures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T18:03:04.037" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:03:04.037" Title="Question about April" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30108" CreationDate="2016-05-16T17:20:15.163" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.  Only things that specifically refer to Faded affect them.  Things that interact with cubes generically cannot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This along with many other questions is handled by the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1470601/compiled-faq-spoilers-hidden-each-month-hidden-sep&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pandemic Legacy FAQ on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-05-16T18:01:34.467" LastActivityDate="2016-05-16T18:01:34.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30110" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30111" CreationDate="2016-05-17T03:53:06.920" Score="2" ViewCount="786" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if I could use a stormcast eternals body but use a space wolves head and run him as a terminator? I got some stormcasts from a small local tournament and I run space wolf army so I was wondering if I could use the stromcasts body in place of a terminators?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16228" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T10:59:49.103" Title="Could i run a stormcast eternals body with a head from a space wolf?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30110" CreationDate="2016-05-17T10:59:49.103" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Definitely you can. The Hobby has a long history of &lt;em&gt;converting&lt;/em&gt; models, e.g. head swaps, weapon swaps, extra legs/arms/tentacles etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the conversion is likely to cause confusion, just point out what it 'counts as' to your opponent before the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T10:59:49.103" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30113" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-17T14:03:13.170" Score="1" ViewCount="38" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played Star Trek Catan for the first time last night and really enjoyed what the command cards (Sulu, Kirk, Spock) added to the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to purchase a deck of command cards themed to match regular Settlers of Catan. Does this exist in one of the expansions, or as a standalone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Sorry, this is a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12513/has-anyone-made-regular-themed-version-of-the-star-trek-catan-role-cards?rq=1&quot;&gt;Has anyone made regular-themed version of the Star Trek Catan role cards?&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6443" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T14:10:09.973" Title="Command cards (Star Trek Catan) for vanilla Catan?" Tags="|catan|expansions|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-17T15:20:00.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30091" CreationDate="2016-05-17T14:08:49.377" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A rider cannot move less than its base movement, and a &amp;quot;blockade&amp;quot; isn't all that effective anyway.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your intuition about the wording in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/37385/understandable-english-rules-graphics&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; is correct (Board Game Geek account needed for access). A player has to move, at minimum, their base movement every turn (assuming they have broken away from the peloton). Additionally, the rules note that riders can pass through spaces occupied by other riders if the road is completely blocked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rider may pass through spaces occupied by other riders ONLY when the track before him is &lt;strong&gt;completely blocked&lt;/strong&gt; (&lt;em&gt;fig.6b&lt;/em&gt;). &lt;strong&gt;However, the following rules must be observed:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He must choose the longest path.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;He must pay 1 additional energy point for each occupied space he moves through.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So by creating a blockade, you're only causing other riders to expend more energy, when you could be using your riders to move as far as possible (it is a race, after all). You should still place your rider strategically so that other riders need to go around and waste movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On Board Game Geek, user &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/user/Garf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Daniel Kazaniecki&lt;/a&gt; has uploaded a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/40094/leader-2-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;different set of rules&lt;/a&gt; that fix some annoying aspects of the game. He posts: &amp;quot;After lots of brainstorming and then testing, we finally arrived to this set of rules, which seems to play out nicely for all kinds of routes, while not being too complex.&amp;quot; After finding this, we tried out these rules and the game seemed to run more smoothly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the changes they made was allowing riders to move a minimum of one space, regardless of rider type and terrain. However, they also add a rule that allows riders to pay energy to pass through &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; other riders, so it still washes out your idea for creating a blockade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T14:08:49.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29640" CreationDate="2016-05-17T19:33:15.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The applicable rule would be:&#xA;&quot;Use the white dice ONLY when rolling to get out of jail.&quot;&#xA;The speed die is an extra die that can be used in roll.  This rule explicitly states that the speed die is NOT used for a roll where a player is trying to get out of jail.  When they go to make such a roll, they are in jail.  Once they roll they are no longer in jail, but have already completed their roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am used to the speed die from playing Mega Monopoly where the speed die is used every time the dice are rolled.  The Advanced Monopoly has sometimes uses the classic two die roll and sometimes all three dice.  A roll is always a single event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="299" LastActivityDate="2016-05-17T19:33:15.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3847" CreationDate="2016-05-18T06:11:10.520" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Interested in what you say here about the Allies having a slight edge. I assume you mean First Edition here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend and I have been playing for years. We originally used to think that the Allies were slightly ahead. Usually this was due to US being able to afford a bomber or two that nails down German economy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have had the optional rule of fighter defense turned on for a long time. This makes it much harder for the Allies to strat bomb Germany.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seemed to give the Axis a break and have been consistently winning 1942, but we are now trying new tactics as Allies that is making a difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T06:11:10.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30119" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25106" CreationDate="2016-05-18T06:21:04.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are 100% correct. Retreating is part of general combat, Strategic bombing is a special type of attack that has no concept of retreating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AA units only get one shot at the inbound bombers, so unless you changed your mind about the bombers actually carrying out the attack, retreating has no meaning with respect to strategic bombing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16115" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T06:21:04.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30120" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:29:26.850" Score="4" ViewCount="360" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have an opening strength hand and my best suit is the same major as the opening opposition's suit bid, I don't think I can cue bid in this event. How can I tell my partner that we want to play in this suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16101" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:40:29.940" Title="Bridge and bidding" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30129" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:42:57.790" Score="5" ViewCount="7568" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Boss Monster game is specific in that it says only 2-4 players can play the game, but from reading all the rules, and the fact that there are more than 4 monsters, I don't understand why it cannot go to five or six. I imagine it might be because there might not be enough resource cards to go around. (Note: I've only played a couple of rounds of the digital product but just recently got the physical game.) However, if I put in the expansions would 5-6 players be more reasonable? Or is there some additional catches that keep it from allowing more than four players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16248" LastActivityDate="2017-03-15T19:00:15.083" Title="Can Boss Monster work with 5+ players?" Tags="|house-rules|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30120" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:44:55.860" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You might want to play in that suit, but your partner is probably void and would really prefer some other suit.  You've got two options here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Sit in the bushes.  Underbid your hand a bit, see if the opposition is willing to bid a serious contract.  Double them at the last minute for a nice down score!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Bid your next-best suit.  If there's a lot of points in this deck, then your partner might bid the 3rd suit and then you know you've got all the suits covered and you can play no trump.  Or, partner might like your next-best suit, and you'll go on to some small game there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When your opponent has your suit, that really just means that neither of you is going to be able to play that suit very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2026" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T14:44:55.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30120" CreationDate="2016-05-18T14:47:11.793" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you sure you want to play in that suit? Especially if your opponents open a major only if they hold a 5-card, you already know where 10 of the trumps are. Chances of a fit with your partner are slim and the length of that opponent can really hurt you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider remaining silent for the moment and double when they reach a manche. If you are really bent on playing and you also hold something in 2, 3 or all of the other suits, consider bidding 1NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T15:02:51.453" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:02:51.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30099" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:03:28.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A is wrong because he returned his blocker before combat damage was assigned and dealt therefore the attacker would not die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B is wrong because player A can successfully block AND return his creature. The attacker's deathtouch ability is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:03:28.093" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30125" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:09:20.030" Score="2" ViewCount="20950" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a friend &quot;J&quot; who will say uno when you say uno to make you draw the the penalty. Does he have to give you a chance to say uno?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16249" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T20:48:44.057" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:48:44.057" Title="Do you have to give others a chance to say &quot;Uno&quot;?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-05-18T20:49:41.917" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30096" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:36:10.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depends. Clip Wings says each of your opponents has to sacrifice a creature with flying. As long as that enchanted Rancid Rats is his only flying creature then yes it will have to be sacrificed. If he has other creatures with flying then he could sacrifice one of those instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12760" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:36:10.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30125" CreationDate="2016-05-18T15:43:51.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unorules.com/&quot;&gt;original Uno rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game continues until a player has one card left. The moment a player has just one card they must yell “UNO!”. If they are caught not saying “Uno” by another player before any card has been played, the player must draw two new cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't explicitly specify that you must give someone a chance to say &quot;Uno&quot;, though it does seem to advocate doing it as soon as you have one card left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience it has always fallen under the category of house rules as to how much time constitutes a &quot;chance&quot;.  Agree on something.  If you can't, maybe ask &quot;J&quot; how much he likes playing Uno with you and if he would like to be invited back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T15:43:51.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30128" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30125" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:07:28.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/11663/5614&quot;&gt;a previous response&lt;/a&gt; someone cited a better portion of the rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player who forgets to say UNO before his card touches the discard pile, but &quot;catches&quot; himself before any other player catches him, is safe and is not subject to the penalty. You may not catch a player for failure to say UNO until his second to last card touches the DISCARD pile. Also, you may not catch a player for failure to say UNO after the next player begins his turn. &quot;Beginning a turn is defines as either drawing a card from the DRAW pile or drawing a card from your hand to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In honor of that I'm deleting most of my post in agreement with this official decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This first to say Uno concept is part of what makes Uno to many people a broken game. You can't definitively end the game and you can theoretically keep it going forever. I'm surprised there wasn't a Key and Peele skit on it. The rules say you have to say Uno if you only have one card and that you can call Uno to call someone out on not having a card to force a draw penalty on them. What isn't explicit is timing hence your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they are saying Uno at the same time &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when you say uno&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;then I would say the tie goes to the active player. Because I believe the spirit of the rule is about getting someone so involved in the game they forget to say it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also try a varient where only the next player (or maybe only previous... or maybe only neighbors) can say Uno. that could be an interesting twist as well and also limit loud uno yellers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T20:45:42.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30121" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:09:38.807" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was just considering this a few days ago:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, there are simply not enough hero types to go around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the game operates on 4 basic hero types, it is limited to 4 players for fairness. (ie each player can concentrate on one hero type in a 4 player game: A goes Thieves, B goes Clerics, C goes Fighters, D goes Mages).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you add more players ( E &amp;amp; F ), then the players come into conflict over resource types ( E tries to go for Fighters. Suddenly, (depending on luck of the draw) either E or C is getting &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the Fighter heroes and the other player gets &lt;em&gt;nothing&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem magnifies more for each player as you add players beyond 4 in our thought experiment. Get to 8 players and 4 are unable to score any points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not very fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit/Update: Official Brotherwise opinion on the matter (from their website):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Boss Monster 2 is balanced and recommended for 2-4 players. However, if you also own the core set, it is possible to play with 5-6 players. Here are some unofficial guidelines for larger games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Play using the Unlimited Lives variant described on page 17 of the rulebook. (Players are not eliminated upon reaching five Wounds. The game ends when a turn ends with no cards left in the Hero decks. The winner of the game is the player with the highest total Souls minus Wounds.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For a 5-player game, start with all the Heroes and Epic Heroes from one set. Then add an extra 4-Health Cleric, Fighter, Mage and Thief. Add an extra 11-Health Cleric, Fighter, Mage, and Thief.&#xA;  For a 6-player game, also add an extra 6-Health Cleric, Fighter, Mage and Thief.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;We are currently developing a set designed to facilitate larger multiplayer games. If you would like to share feedback on multiplayer over 4 players, please e-mail us at bossmonster@brotherwisegames.com!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16250" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T09:40:52.663" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T09:40:52.663" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30121" CreationDate="2016-05-18T16:11:05.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only problem with more players in Boss Monsters is that game length is dictated by a dwindling deck. More players means a faster dwindle. It's the same issue in Pandemic where a fifth player works in every level except that you will run out of cards even faster. The same thing happens with Dominion where the game ends faster because three piles will empty in fewer rounds than normal. With more cards Boss Monster could accomodate a fifth and sixth player. You are however adding time to the build phase and if you follow the rules literally the adventure phase too because that's more time waiting for five other players to take their turns before you go. The adventure phase is so simple that most people I've played with just do it simultaneously but the rules do say to perform them in order and there are a few rooms in which it matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T16:11:05.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30131" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30137" CreationDate="2016-05-18T17:11:49.157" Score="4" ViewCount="501" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking at some links that show statistics of the most used occupations and minor improvements from winning players, I've noticed that the Forester and Copse do not rank nearly as high as I thought they wood (haha, &quot;wood&quot;, get it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When my friends and I play, if someone gets one of those two cards it seems that person wins quite often. The ability to not need to pick wood first and not being starved for wood appears quite powerful. Being able to expand rooms as well as building fences to get that first pool of sheep seems pretty powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, statistics from 2000 winning games seems hard to ignore. Do you think  the Forester and Copse as good as I feel they are? Perhaps our strategy is just sub-par?  :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1414/what-are-the-most-busted-cards-in-agricola&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is the link I was looking at. Follow the accepted answer's links.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T10:39:40.153" Title="Forester and Copse in Agricola" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30132" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30135" CreationDate="2016-05-18T21:24:53.510" Score="0" ViewCount="934" Body="&lt;p&gt;The trapezohedron allows the investigator to discard the chosen monster on a roll of 5 or 6. Since discarding Epic Monsters is disallowed, would a 5 or 6 result in no action while a roll of 1-4 result in moving the monster to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:29:58.793" Title="Can I use the Shining Trapezohedron against Epic Monsters to attempt to move them?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-under-the-pyramids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30133" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30136" CreationDate="2016-05-18T22:08:48.517" Score="3" ViewCount="491" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I can acquire multiple assets, can I acquire some into my possession and then, during the same acquire assets action, acquire the final card which then acts on those newly gained possessions, for instance enabling me to give any number of Item possessions to another investigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:54:40.793" Title="When I acquire assets, can I receive the item into my possession one at a time?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30121" CreationDate="2016-05-18T22:23:28.987" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have Boss Monster 2, you will have twice as many heroes available to you, so you could figure out how many extra heroes to add to the hero decks, presumably +25%. This would solve the problem of game length.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also want to balance which kind of treasures the heroes want, I assume something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Players: add the 2nd set of 3 player heroes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 players: add the 2nd set of 4 player heroes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure if the treasure types being less than the number of players will be a problem or not. Players are competing for heroes either way. Presumably the competition would be stronger, more ties, more heroes building up in town.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would also have twice as many bosses to provide plenty of variance between what bosses are competing. I have tried mixing the old and new bosses, and they seem to be somewhat balanced; the one shot level ups are strong, and the repeating effects are mostly small and rather narrow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since these rules are untested, the next step would be to try them, and see what breaks, and then try to iterate and fix the problems, or give up if the problems are intractable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T22:23:28.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30132" CreationDate="2016-05-18T23:21:34.717" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The exact text on the card is: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XgufA.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XgufA.png&quot; alt=&quot;Shining Trapezohedrom&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; Choose 1 Monster on any space and role 1 die. On a 5 or 6, discard that Monster. On a 1-4, move that Monster to your space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/39/c1/39c182c1-6b0d-46c4-b5eb-dd6886b4c798/eh01_reference_guide1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From the reference guide (page 6):&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Epic Monsters are treated like Monsters for all effects except as described here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;An Epic Monster cannot be defeated by any effect except losing Health equal to or greater than it's toughness.&#xA;  An Epic Monster cannot be discarded.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;An Epic Monster cannot be moved, except by an effect on its &#xA;  token or the component that spawned it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Epic Monsters are never placed in the Monster cup.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;When an Epic Monster is defeated, it is returned to the game box.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;“Monster” refers to a Monster and/or an Epic Monsters. “Non-Epic Monster” refers to a Monster but not an Epic Monster.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, the Shining Trapezohedron can not move the Epic Monster&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastEditorUserId="12884" LastEditDate="2016-05-18T23:29:58.793" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:29:58.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30136" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30133" CreationDate="2016-05-18T23:54:40.793" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been unable to find any references for this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you think of the Acquire Assets action as a shopping trip it helps resolve the more common mistakes (replacing items as they are purchased instead of at the end and not being able to purchase more than one item. Shops don't restock immediately after you purchase an item, it takes time to do so; and your successes are each worth one currency, you can divide your total currency as you want)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe looking at it this way also resolves your question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you're shopping you're not buying items at random, you're selecting the items you want, deciding between multiple items and preferring certain items over other ones. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've purchased all your items at the same time. You own them all simultaneously. You can then choose the order to resolve any effects that occur as a result, and if that includes effects that allow exchange of items between players then the new cards are included.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you've purchased the items in individual transactions from multiple shops in the same shopping trip. The items you've purchased already have been paid for and are in your possession. Effects from items you've purchased later will still apply to these items (but not future purchases). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I said, there are no official answers to this question that I can find, but hopefully this answer gives you some guidance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastActivityDate="2016-05-18T23:54:40.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30131" CreationDate="2016-05-19T10:31:59.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;To me, the benefits of these cards have always seemed limited for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Initial outlay. You need to invest a number of wood into the card to begin with.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Delayed gratification. The first harvest after you sow the forester/copse, you simply get back your initial investment, therefore it is two harvests before you get any benefit at all. This is particularly negative when we are talking about wood, which is most useful early in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Needing to sow. Sow spaces are often at a premium, particularly in games with 4/5 players. You aren't going to want to waste a whole action just to sow your copse, so it's only really valuable if you are going to be sowing grain anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons, an occupation like the Wood Collector seems preferable. On the surface it might seem like a poor alternative, since the total amount of wood that you get is potentially less: 5 versus 12 if you were to use the Forester to its full potential. But compare them over time, if both were played as early as possible: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On round four, the Wood Collector is already up by 3 wood, whereas the Forester is DOWN by three wood. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On round six, the Wood Collector is up by 5 wood and the Forester is drawing even.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's not till round 10 that the Forester is actually ahead by 1 wood over the Wood Collector (6 vs 5).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By round 14, the Forester has gained 9 wood compared to the WC's 5. There is an extra three to come, but it is only useful if you have the Joinery/Sawmill.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that's all if the Forester is used perfectly. If you don't get the chance to sow before the first harvest (which requires having picked up three wood and used the &quot;Sow/bake bread&quot; spot) then your return is much poorer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Being able to expand rooms as well as building fences to get that first pool of sheep seems pretty powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this, I wonder if you have misinterpreted the cards in some way. You should be taking one wood from the top of each stack during the field phase of each harvest and putting it into your supply. The wood on the card is not available for you to use to pay for anything until you have harvested it. For that reason, you don't get ANY benefit from the Forester/Copse until Round 8 at the earliest (the first harvest is just recouping your initial investment), so to use it to get the first pool of sheep seems implausible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastEditorUserId="14607" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T10:39:40.153" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T10:39:40.153" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30120" CreationDate="2016-05-19T14:40:41.003" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you would like to &quot;play&quot; (that is, defend) in a suit that your opponents have bid, you make what is called a &quot;trap pass.&quot; You know that you want to play in that suit, but your opponent doesn't know that for now. In essence, you have set a trap for him. Because you are doing this, you can't afford to tell your partner anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you and opener are both &quot;long and strong&quot; in the suit, your partner is likely to be very weak. Realize that opener probably has all the missing honors that you don't have, while your partner probably has a singleton, if not a void in the suit. Assuming a reasonable level of strength in the three other suits, s/he will double the opener's bid for &quot;takeout.&quot; Then you can pass for penalties and make the opponents play in &quot;your&quot; suit for more than half the tricks when you and partner have more than half the points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This penalty pass means that &quot;I am at least as strong in the suit as opener, maybe opener and dummy put together.&quot; This implies strength of at least something like AKxxx, or QJTxx. You're telling partner, &quot;We should lead this suit, knock out dummy's trumps, and then play a quasi no trump game in your (the doubling partner's) three strong suits.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T18:40:29.940" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:40:29.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30143" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:28:17.417" Score="5" ViewCount="590" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played in my first PTQ (and got top 8!) a few weeks ago and received a warning for missing a trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation was as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's game 3 of the last swiss round.  I pass the turn with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krallenhorde%20Howler&quot;&gt;Krallenhorde Howler&lt;/a&gt; after attacking, playing two creatures, playing an Evolving Wilds, and cracking it.  I'm searching through my deck for a one-of basic so since it will take me a minute to find it and shuffle, I tell my opponent what I'm getting and to go ahead and take their turn while I search and shuffle.  They immediately untap, upkeep, draw, play a land, and then pass the turn.  I find the land, finish shuffling, and my opponent cuts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the issue happens, I put my hands on my lands, look at the board, and before untapping anything, point out that the Howler flipped back to a Duskwatch Recruiter on his upkeep and then said that on my upkeep it's going to flip back again.  I have not verbally indicated passing priority or said anything up to this point.  He called a judge, gave me a warning for a missed trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was the only warning I got in all of the rounds of that tournament so it didn't matter (and I won that game anyway).  My question is, did I imply passing priority by touching my lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, what verbal and non-verbal actions constitute passing priority at Competitive REL?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="13272" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T16:21:13.297" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T18:23:25.083" Title="What actions constitute passing priority?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30140" CreationDate="2016-05-19T15:56:15.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You passed priority to him when you told him to take his turn while you searched your deck (more on this in a second), and then you missed the trigger on his upkeep. So the issue wasn't with you touching your lands, it was with where the game state was when you noticed the error.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that when he went to draw a card, if you had stopped him and said &amp;quot;During your upkeep...,&amp;quot; then no warning would have been issued because you were maintaining mandatory triggers. But since he drew a card and played a land, the game had passed through his upkeep. &lt;em&gt;He&lt;/em&gt; implied priority when he went to draw a card, and that's where you would normally have caught him to make sure triggers were resolved. It is possible he realized that you'd miss your trigger and tried to speed through his turn, but the judge saw it as you not maintaining proper game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moral of the story here is that you should never pass your turn while you are still taking actions, even if you don't think they take too long and won't change the outcome of your turn. While this might fly in casual games, any shortcut that involves another player taking actions while you resolve anything is probably in violation of a strict interpretation of the comprehensive rules. Under the section on shortcuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.2a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent couldn't legally take their turn until you had put a land into play from Evolving Wilds, even though the placing of the land was a &amp;quot;predictable&amp;quot; choice. And had you waited to pass the turn until you had found your land, you may have noticed that you needed to resolve triggers during your opponent's upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, you should stick the shortcuts described in section 4.2 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_8apr16_ena.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;. It's a fairly long list, but the relevant points for passing priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The statement &amp;quot;Go&amp;quot; (and equivalents such as &amp;quot;Your turn&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;Done&amp;quot;) offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the end step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A statement such as &amp;quot;I'm ready for combat&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;Declare attackers?&amp;quot; offers to keep passing priority until an opponent has priority in the beginning of combat step. Opponents are assumed to be acting then unless they specify otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a player adds an object to the stack, he or she is assumed to be passing priority unless he or she explicitly announces that he or she intends to retain it. If he or she adds a group of objects to the stack without explicitly retaining priority and a player wishes to take an action at a point in the middle, the actions should be reversed up to that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you plan on deviating from these with a proposed shortcut, keep in mind that you &amp;quot;must be clear where the game state will end up as part of the request.&amp;quot; This may have been another issue in your proposed shortcut, because your opponent wasn't alerted to where they needed to pause the game next and there was no specific request for priority for triggered abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T16:30:50.213" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30142" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30145" CreationDate="2016-05-19T16:11:43.137" Score="40" ViewCount="6339" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of my standard decks is a 4-Color Rites deck.  It has a few combos where infinite &quot;dies&quot; triggers are used.  One of them involves having a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCatacomb%20Sifter%5d&quot;&gt;Catacomb Sifter&lt;/a&gt; in play with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrood%20Monitor%5d&quot;&gt;Brood Monitor&lt;/a&gt; and an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEldrazi%20Displacer%5d&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Displacer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combo involves sacrificing the 3 scions created by the Brood Monitor, which creates 3 &quot;scry 1&quot; triggers from the Catacomb Sifter and adds 3 colorless mana to your pool.  The mana just created then is used to activate the Eldrazi Displacer's ability to flicker the Brood Monitor.  The Brood Monitor then enters the battlefield and it's triggered ability causes it to create 3 new Eldrazi Scions.  This can be repeated infinitely, creating an infinite number of scry 1 triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At regular REL events like FNM, I describe this to my opponents and ask if I can just cut to the card I'm looking for as long as I keep my deck in order.  At competitive REL events would this be an appropriate shortcut to propose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another question: if the infinite triggers were scry 2 or more, then could you stack your deck as well? Are you allowed to just grab your deck and cut/stack it as a shortcut or is that not an appropriate shortcut for all RELs?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="13272" LastEditDate="2016-07-13T16:23:58.670" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T20:48:49.740" Title="Can infinite scry 1 be shortcut by searching through your deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30140" CreationDate="2016-05-19T17:37:39.807" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I disagree with the ruling made by the floor judge. I also disagree with upgrading the penalty to a warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Ruling&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, let's get some terminology down:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You are the controller of the trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I interpret &amp;quot;action&amp;quot; to mean &amp;quot;game action&amp;quot;. For example:&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resting your hands on your lands is not a game action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Untapping your lands is a game action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silence is not a game action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Saying &amp;quot;Sure.&amp;quot; is a game action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following is an excerpt from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_8apr16_ena.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may not cause triggered abilities controlled by an opponent to be missed by taking game actions or otherwise prematurely advancing the game. During an opponent’s turn, if a trigger’s controller demonstrates awareness of the trigger before they take an active role (such as taking an action or explicitly passing priority), the trigger is remembered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this says, quite clearly, is that your opponent cannot cause you, the controller, to miss a trigger by drawing a card, playing a land, or otherwise advancing the game without your active consent. You never assumed an active role before remembering the trigger. Therefore, you didn't miss it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is reinforced in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_8apr16_ena.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities are considered to be forgotten by their controller once they have taken an action past the point where the triggered ability would have an observable impact on the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent had said &amp;quot;Draw?&amp;quot; and you respond with a &amp;quot;Sure.&amp;quot;, then you have assumed an active role by explicitly passing priority. In that case, the trigger is definitely missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Penalty&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Missed triggers should only be upgraded to a warning if the trigger is considered detrimental to its controller. The game state is not a factor in determining this. As noted in the IPG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Upgrade: If the triggered ability is usually considered detrimental for the controlling player the penalty is a Warning. The current game state is not a factor in determining this, though symmetrical abilities (such as Howling Mine) may be considered usually detrimental or not depending on who is being affected&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/mtgjudge/comments/4dddu1/what_part_of_duskwatch_recruiter_is_a_detrimental/d1qid2d&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;an L2 judge on Reddit&lt;/a&gt;, neither side of Duskwatch Recruiter is considered &amp;quot;generally detrimental&amp;quot;. It may be situationally detrimental, but according to the IPG, the judge awarding the penalty should not be using the board state as a factor in determining whether the trigger is detrimental.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T18:23:25.083" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30144" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30142" CreationDate="2016-05-19T17:44:47.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can propose any shortcut you like, at any time. If the sequence of plays is legal and your opponent accepts it, you are free to do your combo as you described. At a sanctioned event, preferably ask a judge before taking the shortcut you describe.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rules Enforcement Level (REL) doesn't really come into play here. What you are proposing is perfectly fine under the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.1a The rules for taking shortcuts are largely unformalized. As long as each player in the game understands the intent of each other player, any shortcut system they use is acceptable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;716.2a At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a non-repetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns. It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes. The ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only possible obstacle to the way you want to handle &amp;quot;infinite scry &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;&amp;quot; is that even when infinite scrying, you are not allowed to look at your deck as a whole, only &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; cards at a time. You would have to memorize the order of cards to decide when to stop scrying. However, you are allowed to take notes during the game as described in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jan16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament rules, section 2.11&lt;/a&gt;, so you could write down the order of cards as you scry them. Therefore, you could easily argue that it is equivalent to looking at your whole deck instead, and in the interest of swift play, it should be acceptable to look at the whole deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be aware though, especially &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;at competitive REL&lt;/a&gt;, that action could be deemed illegal and a judge might award you a Warning for &amp;quot;Game Play Error — Looking at Extra Cards&amp;quot;. When in doubt, always ask a judge at the event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T17:55:55.137" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30142" CreationDate="2016-05-19T17:55:37.607" Score="47" Body="&lt;p&gt;An &lt;a href=&quot;https://apps.magicjudges.org/forum/topic/20489/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official Ruling&lt;/a&gt; (requires a Judge Apps account to view) by high-level tournament judges explicitly says that you can take those shortcuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player with the ability to scry 1 ‘infinitely’ may shortcut this action by examining the library without reordering it and cutting it to a specific location. A player with the ability to scry 2 or more infinitely may shortcut this action by rearranging her library in any way she likes, but she must do so quickly. Players are not required to know the mathematics or technical steps behind this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Technically, by the definition in the Comprehensive Rules, each of those situations would actually involve two shortcuts. The rule that's relevant here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Shortcut&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;726.2a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At any point in the game, the player with priority may suggest a shortcut by describing a sequence of game choices, for all players, that may be legally taken based on the current game state and the predictable results of the sequence of choices. This sequence may be a non-repetitive series of choices, a loop that repeats a specified number of times, multiple loops, or nested loops, and may even cross multiple turns. &lt;strong&gt;It can’t include conditional actions, where the outcome of a game event determines the next action a player takes.&lt;/strong&gt; The ending point of this sequence must be a place where a player has priority, though it need not be the player proposing the shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The highlighted part is what makes this tricky. &lt;em&gt;Technically&lt;/em&gt;, you can't say &amp;quot;I scry until I see a particular card&amp;quot;, but we can work around that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scry 1&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case where you can only Scry 1 a number of times, and you want to search your deck for a particular card and cut to have that card on top, you would use two shortcuts to technically make this work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scry 1 N times, where N is the number of cards in your library, and choose to put the card on the bottom each time. This is functionally equivalent to looking at your entire library without changing its order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Choose a card with K cards on top of it, then Scry K and choose to put the card on bottom each time. This is equivalent to cutting the deck just above the card you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Scry 2+&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This case is a little more complicated. When you want to stack your deck, you're not just scrying a certain number of cards to the bottom; you're taking a large number of steps of reordering two cards at a time to eventually end up at the desired order. But it still can be done according to the rules using these shortcuts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Scry 2 N/2 times (rounded up), where N is the number of cards in your library (or enough to see your whole library), and choose to put the cards on the bottom each time. As in the first case, you have to know the current order of your library to &lt;em&gt;deterministically&lt;/em&gt; make the next shortcut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Technically, to be fully compliant with the rules, here you would lay out exactly the sequence of scrys you would do to get the order you want (like &amp;quot;Put the top card on bottom, then put the second from top card on bottom, then put the top card on bottom, etc.&amp;quot;). Unfortunately, working out that sequence and reciting it would probably take as long as just doing it manually, which would probably count as slow play. However, it's likely that your opponent would accept &amp;quot;Now that I know the order of my library, I &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; give a sequence of scrys to arbitrarily reorder my deck, so I would like to skip that and just stack my deck&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2022-08-22T20:48:49.740" LastActivityDate="2022-08-22T20:48:49.740" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30147" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30148" CreationDate="2016-05-19T19:46:36.677" Score="2" ViewCount="9191" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have investigated a lot but I'm still not sure if I can use an altered art card in a tournament. I know that the golden rule is: The head judge will determine if the altered card is legal or not. But I don't want to paint my card if it will obviously be rejected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be more specific I want to make a border extension of my commander. The tournaments in which I am interested are mainly FNM and local shop little tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone doesn't know what border extension is, here is an example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQqu9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/tQqu9m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;border extension&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here, Iona, Skithiryx and Thundermaw Hellkite have a pure border extension with no further modifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/28808/409&quot;&gt;a related post&lt;/a&gt; in this site but it doesn't clarify if this can be done or not because for one side it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the card is legal then the card has black or white borders&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and then it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Artistic modifications are acceptable in sanctioned tournaments, provided that the modifications do not make the card art unrecognizable, contain substantial strategic advice, or contain offensive images. Artistic modifications also may not obstruct or change the mana cost or name of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover I've read that if I use sleeves the card is most likely to be accepted by the judge. Considering that Commander is a more casual format and the commander(or general) almost never go into the deck I would like some help to decide if I do this art extension or not.  Maybe one judge can point me in the right direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T01:01:43.343" Title="Can I use an altered art card in tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ClosedDate="2016-05-20T06:09:36.247" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30147" CreationDate="2016-05-19T20:28:19.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The image of the cards you sent are a perfect example of acceptable altering for tournament play. As far as commander games go, you can sometimes get away with not even having a legal copy of your commander and instead playing with an oversized version of the card. Commander is very lenient and you can usually get away with altering cards so that they don't have any rules text. So long as there is some way to identify that the card is what it is, people will be accepting of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Altered art mostly just falls in the category of DBAD. Don't draw porn on your cards, don't draw children being decapitated, don't try to alter your Misdirection to look like a Force of Will.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKlZu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xKlZu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Misdirecting Misdirection&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastEditorUserId="5370" LastEditDate="2016-05-19T20:35:34.603" LastActivityDate="2016-05-19T20:35:34.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30149" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30151" CreationDate="2016-05-20T01:45:25.287" Score="4" ViewCount="1676" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rules I gather that &lt;em&gt;Delayed Triggered Abilities&lt;/em&gt; are objects on the stack,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.1b.&lt;/strong&gt; An ability can be an activated or triggered ability on the stack. This kind of ability is an object. (See section 6, “Spells, Abilities, and Effects.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but because these delayed triggered abilities need not trigger until their trigger condition is met, it stands to reason that they remain on the stack until they can resolve. However, this seems to be in conflict with the continuation of the game after a player receives priority, which happens as soon as all players pass on priority and the stack is empty:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If all players pass in succession (that is, if all players pass without taking any actions in between passing), the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves or, if the stack is empty, the phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;500.2.&lt;/strong&gt; A phase or step in which players receive priority ends when the stack is empty and all players pass in succession.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, my question is: where do &lt;em&gt;Delayed Triggered Abilities&lt;/em&gt; live, and if the answer is indeed 'on the stack', what is the resolution to the apparent conflict with continuing the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16265" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T13:04:48.503" Title="Where do Delayed Triggered Abilities live?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2016-05-20T03:01:08.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the intended interpretation is that a delayed triggered ability lives the same place as continuous effects like &quot;Your creatures have +1/+1 until end of turn&quot; live: nowhere in particular. They aren't objects on the stack (at least not until the delayed trigger is met) because you're right, that would prevent players from getting on with the game. Looks to me that rule 112.1 was slightly sloppy in its wording.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T03:01:08.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30149" CreationDate="2016-05-20T07:47:04.027" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Delayed triggered abilities (DTAs) simply exist on their own, they do not depend on the existence of another object.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A spell or ability creates one-shot effects and/or continuous effects. Creation of a DTA is a certain kind of one-shot effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;610.2. Some one-shot effects create a delayed triggered ability, which instructs a player to do something later in the game (usually at a specific time) rather than as the spell or ability that’s creating the one-shot effect resolves. See rule 603.7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Their source in the rules sense is always the spell or ability that created them, which in any case already ceased to exist before the DTA can trigger; a DTA's controller is the player who controlled the source of the DTA when it resolved (603.7d-f). If a situation cares about properties of the source of a triggered DTA, the last known information about the source is used. (112.7a)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion stems from the fact that &amp;quot;triggered ability&amp;quot; refers both to abilities as they are printed on cards, and to the objects on the stack that they create. You already quoted the rule for the latter case, but you left out the former:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.1. An ability can be one of two things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.1a An ability is a characteristic an object has that lets it affect the game. An object’s abilities are defined by its rules text or by the effect that created it. Abilities can also be granted to objects by rules or effects. (Effects that do so use the words “has,” “have,” “gains,” or “gain.”) Abilities generate effects. (See rule 609, “Effects.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.1b An ability can be an activated or triggered ability on the stack. This kind of ability is an object. (See section 6, “Spells, Abilities, and Effects.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, take any permanent with a triggered ability, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abattoir%20Ghoul&quot;&gt;Abattoir Ghoul&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Abyssal%20Horror&quot;&gt;Abyssal Horror&lt;/a&gt;. The text that is written on them respresents triggered abilities. When their trigger condition is met, they create an object on the stack. These objects are also called &amp;quot;triggered ability&amp;quot;, and, as you correctly noted, they have to leave the stack (usually by resolving) before the game can continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A delayed triggered ability (DTA) follows the same rules. A DTA is a triggered ability that creates instances of itself on the stack that are also called &amp;quot;triggered abilities&amp;quot;. However, matters are complicated a little further because a DTA is never printed on a card, they are always created by a spell or other ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.7a Delayed triggered abilities come from spells or other abilities that create them on resolution, or are created as the result of a replacement effect being applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, at that point a DTA is &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; an object on the stack, just like the ability printed on Abyssal Horror is not on the stack, and therefore does not block the progression of the game. An instance of a DTA goes on the stack when its trigger condition is met, just like a regular triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.7b A delayed triggered ability will trigger only once—the next time its trigger event occurs—unless it has a stated duration, such as “this turn.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Death%20Frenzy&quot;&gt;Death Frenzy&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Balduvian%20Rage&quot;&gt;Balduvian Rage&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DTAs are also always temporary, they either last until the end of turn, or they do something at the beginning of the next turn. That temporary nature is not a fundamental limitation based on the rules. It's a design decision, because it's simply too difficult for human players to keep track of more and more dynamically created abilities across multiple turns, or even the whole game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-05-20T09:26:11.310" LastActivityDate="2016-05-20T09:26:11.310" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30152" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29742" CreationDate="2016-05-21T00:23:38.400" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are essentially asking for statistics on the tactics chosen by expert players over the course of playing many games, correlated with the ease and perceived necessity of making their desired score in those games. While fascinating, i don't think you can find this out other than by asking experts directly for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;stats of this kind are hard to find or not produced&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it depends on the player and their &quot;style&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good players aren't playing to make their contract anyhow;  they are playing to equal (defensive bidding) or marginally beat the field, so you can't correlate play tactics to actual bids, you have to correlate to their estimate of the tricks they feel they need and the risks they feel safe in taking to obtain them in that game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;good players may perceive extra information/insights which guide them to more effective plays (if you can better read the lay of cards maybe you don't need to guess/finesse 100% of the time with 50% error but only 60% of the time with a 20% error, or you are much more sure than 50% so they aren't a 50/50 chance any more, or something?)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16275" LastEditorUserId="16275" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T07:24:21.060" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T07:24:21.060" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30153" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30154" CreationDate="2016-05-21T07:44:05.280" Score="1" ViewCount="1578" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 11 of the rulebook says the game ends if all investigators are &lt;strong&gt;eliminated&lt;/strong&gt; from the game. Does this mean that if all currently active investigators die, the game ends, or does it mean if the pool of investigators from which we draw new ones gets exhausted as well, then it ends. We had a case where all 4 of our investigators simultaneously lost all sanity, and I wasn't sure whether to fast forward to the end of the mythos and redraw 4 investigators. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T09:34:56.117" Title="Does the game end if all current investigators are defeated?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30153" CreationDate="2016-05-21T09:34:56.117" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/e3/a5/e3a58886-072b-4ca2-9709-e723af370203/eh_errata__faq_2016-01-19.pdf&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (Page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. If all investigators are defeated at the same time, do investigators lose the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A No. At the end of the Mythos Phase, each defeated investigator will choose a new investigator to play as. However, if being defeated would cause a player to be eliminated, such as if the Ancient One has awoken, all players could be eliminated. In this case, investigators lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for when players are eliminated when defeated, the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/39/c1/39c182c1-6b0d-46c4-b5eb-dd6886b4c798/eh01_reference_guide1.pdf&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt; (Page 5) provides:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Eliminated players do not choose new investigators after being &#xA;  defeated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If an investigator is defeated and there are no undefeated &#xA;  investigators available, that player is eliminated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If an investigator is defeated or devoured after the Ancient One &#xA;  awakens, that player is eliminated.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If the investigators win the game, any eliminated players win as &#xA;  well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If all players have been eliminated, the investigators lose the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T09:34:56.117" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30155" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30159" CreationDate="2016-05-21T09:38:45.343" Score="4" ViewCount="6564" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent had a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=378430&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Archetype of Finality&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373659&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Borderland Minotaur&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attacked with my &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=407560&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ancient Crab&lt;/a&gt; and casted &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383419&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Turn to Frog&lt;/a&gt; on her Borderland Minotaur once she blocked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct that both the &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures you control have deathtouch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...target creature loses all abilities...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;happen on layer 6 (Ability Adding or Removing Effects) and with the timestamps in mind, the Borderland Minotaur first gained deathtouch and then lost it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks and &quot;Ribbit&quot;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11492" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T15:04:06.943" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T12:57:15.917" Title="Layers: Lose abilities vs creatures have ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30156" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T11:21:15.993" Score="-1" ViewCount="308" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have K8 the other player has K9 K on the board and A comes on the river, who wins the hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16281" LastActivityDate="2018-02-23T03:20:10.120" Title="texas holdem regarding a pair K8 vs K9 and A comes on the river" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-02-23T14:27:30.030" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30157" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30158" CreationDate="2016-05-21T12:14:24.057" Score="3" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAberrant%20Researcher%5d&quot;&gt;Aberrant Researcher&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iD1vw.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/iD1vw.png&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, put the top card of your library into your graveyard. If it's an instant or sorcery card, transform Aberrant Researcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering I had two of these in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Would I put two into the graveyard at the start of my upkeep?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If an instant or sorcery is revealed do both flip at the same time?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2387" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T13:55:32.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T13:56:38.197" Title="In MTG what happens when you have multiple Aberrant Researcher in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-06-07T17:36:31.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30157" CreationDate="2016-05-21T13:46:32.790" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;All Aberrant Researchers trigger independently of each other. An instant or sorcery revealed by one does not flip the other.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an object (for example, a creature) refers to itself by name in its card text, it only means itself, not other permanents with the same name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;201.4. Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, both Researchers' ability triggers at the beginning of your upkeep. The Researchers have no relation to each other, they just happen to have identical properties and abilities. They are also checking different cards - each one checks the card &lt;em&gt;it&lt;/em&gt; put into the graveyard, not all cards put into the graveyard this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T13:56:38.197" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T13:56:38.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30155" CreationDate="2016-05-21T14:41:31.973" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, these both happen on layer 6: ability-adding and ability-removing effects. When one effect is adding one or more abilities, and a second effect is trying to remove them, then the one that &amp;quot;wins&amp;quot; is the one generated last in timestamp order. The Borderland Minotaur won't have deathtouch in that scenario: it gains it, then loses it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rule 613.8&lt;/strong&gt; actually provides a direct example about this, using Flying rather than Deathtouch:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.8. One continuous effect can override another. Sometimes the results of one effect determine whether another effect applies or what another effect does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Two effects are affecting the same creature: &lt;strong&gt;one from an Aura that says “Enchanted creature gains flying” and one from an Aura that says “Enchanted creature loses flying.”&lt;/strong&gt; Neither of these depends on the other, since nothing changes what they affect or what they’re doing to it. &lt;strong&gt;Applying them in timestamp order means the one that was generated last “wins.”&lt;/strong&gt; The same process would be followed, and the same result reached, if either of the effects had a duration (such as “Target creature loses flying until end of turn”) or came from a non-Aura source (such as “All creatures lose flying”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The example uses auras, but the very last sentence in this example says you'd also do the exact same thing if the effects came from &amp;quot;a non-Aura source&amp;quot;, such as your &lt;em&gt;Archetype of Finality&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;Turn to Frog.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T12:57:15.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30160" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T15:36:28.493" Score="1" ViewCount="186" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know of &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pagat.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pagat&lt;/a&gt; for games with multiple players, but is there anything similar for solitaire?  I prefers to play with real cards so I am only looking for the sets of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16282" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T20:57:32.543" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T20:58:12.597" Title="Rules for solitaire card games" Tags="|playing-cards|solitaire|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30156" CreationDate="2016-05-21T15:39:50.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming no &quot;special&quot; features such as the unnamed cards giving anyone a  flush, or full house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will have a pair of kings. So does the other player. You both get the ace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, your &quot;hands&quot; are both KK A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have an 8, and your opponent has a 9. At this point, you are trailing with KKA8 versus KKA9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There will be a fifth card, X, to fill your hand. You have KKAX8, and your opponent has KKAX9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless &quot;X&quot; happens to be a second 8, giving you a second pair, you will not win, because your 8 cannot beat his 9. In fact, you will lose unless,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other three cards than the A on the board are something like QJT, or QQT, basically, three cards higher than your opponent's 9. Then you both &quot;play the board,&quot; and his 9 versus your 8 becomes irrelevant, and you &quot;tie.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the 9 versus 8 matchup comes into play, you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T15:39:50.120" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30162" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-21T16:50:48.590" Score="3" ViewCount="21406" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a Skip card be played before all the players have had at least one chance to play? Or can it be played at anytime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16284" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T22:47:35.020" LastActivityDate="2019-08-19T13:39:25.537" Title="In Phase 10, can a Skip card be played in the first round of a hand?" Tags="|phase-10|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30163" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30162" CreationDate="2016-05-21T19:19:59.700" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such restriction. From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player ends the turn by discarding one card of choice onto the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;SKIP CARDS:&lt;/strong&gt; When discarded, a &quot;Skip &quot; card causes another player to lose their next turn. The player who discards the &quot;Skip &quot; card chooses the player who loses their turn. When a player draws a &quot;Skip &quot; card, the player may discard it immediately or save it for a later turn. A &quot;Skip &quot; card may never be used in making Phase 8, or any other Phase. A &quot;Skip &quot; card may never be picked up from the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T19:19:59.700" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30164" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30156" CreationDate="2016-05-21T23:02:54.913" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The winner is whoever can find the best &lt;strong&gt;five cards&lt;/strong&gt; from among their private cards and the shared cards. We often describe a hand as fewer than five cards - if I have KKA92 I might say I have a &quot;pair of kings&quot; or a &quot;pair of kings with an ace kicker&quot;, but the truth is that I have a pair of kings with an ace kicker and then a 9 kicker and then a 2 kicker; it's just that those later cards &lt;em&gt;usually&lt;/em&gt; don't matter. In your case though, it sounds like they &lt;strong&gt;do&lt;/strong&gt; matter - if the best cards you can find are say KKA84 and your opponent can find KKA92, you lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Note that the best five cards don't have to use your own cards at all, so if e.g. the center has AAAAK then your Q8 would tie with an opponent's 72 because both of your best five-card hands are AAAAK.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-05-21T23:14:25.837" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T23:14:25.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14537" CreationDate="2016-05-21T23:14:49.033" Score="-5" Body="&lt;p&gt;dark steel reactor has &quot;20 or more charge counters &quot; so it will just continue gaining counters until either platinum angel or dark steel is removed &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16287" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T23:14:49.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30160" CreationDate="2016-05-21T23:22:03.100" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia has &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_patience_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;quite a collection&lt;/a&gt;, and the site you mention also has &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/patience/patience.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a page with further links&lt;/a&gt;. You might find more online if you also search for &quot;patience&quot;, the more common name for &quot;solitaire&quot; outside North America.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-21T23:22:03.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30167" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30179" CreationDate="2016-05-22T01:51:27.510" Score="2" ViewCount="1404" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently purchased the Civil War dice-masters starter. After playing the starter scenario a few times, I would like incorporate the rest of the cards into a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question - How do we setup a game &lt;em&gt;not using the starter scenario&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the starter scenario, each player receives two heroes who each have two die. Additionally, three cards are placed in the middle and &quot;shared&quot; between the players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we decide not to use the starter scenario, how do we pick heroes, dice, and the shared middle cards for a game? How many of each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16289" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2022-08-19T01:03:22.757" LastActivityDate="2022-08-19T01:03:22.757" Title="Dice Masters Casual Setup" Tags="|game-setup|dice-masters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30168" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T04:17:09.737" Score="1" ViewCount="110" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone has roads all the way around a hex in catan (six roads), and one road on each opposite end of that hex, is that a total of seven towards the longest road or eight.  In other words do both roads on either end count or only one since it goes around in a circle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15219" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T04:17:09.737" Title="Is this seven or eight consecutive roads in catan?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-05-22T09:41:25.887" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30169" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-22T10:03:21.237" Score="5" ViewCount="319" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I play a straight with 1-5 and wish for a 7. The next player has a 3,4,5,7, and Phoenix.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does my wish compel the player to complete the straight using the Phoenix and fulfill the wish, or the usage of Phoenix exempt from the wish, since the Phoenix cannot be wished for under ordinary circumstances?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6257" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T21:34:56.310" Title="Can the Mah Jong force out the Phoenix as part of a straight in Tichu?" Tags="|tichu|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30169" CreationDate="2016-05-22T12:17:22.360" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the 7 is forced out in this case. The rule for the wish is that if a player has any legal play that involves playing the 7, then he must do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if the player had 5,6,Ph,8,9; then he would NOT be forced to play that straight; because he doesn't actually have a 7. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T12:17:22.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30173" CreationDate="2016-05-22T14:36:41.073" Score="3" ViewCount="2045" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Efficient to Sequence positive mutation allows a disease to be &lt;code&gt;cured as soon as one player discards the necessary number of cards&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, what happens if a player draws their eight card? Would they have to immediately discard a card before being allowed to cure, or can they cure immediately and keep them card they drew?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T17:38:04.013" Title="Efficient to Sequence - do you have to discard cards first?" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30172" CreationDate="2016-05-22T17:38:04.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to discard first. From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1470601/compiled-faq-spoilers-hidden-each-month-hidden-sep&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If we have the 2nd beneficial mutation, exactly when can we discover the cure?&#xA;  You can do it out of turn, but you can’t so it halfway through an epidemic. It’s also worth noting when drawing player cards, you’ll have to discard down to hand size before curing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-22T17:38:04.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31390" CreationDate="2016-05-22T19:08:52.477" Score="8" ViewCount="357" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ok, First I have zero  knowledge about boardgames, I browsed some in the past and have watched some youtube videos a while ago and this will seem really , really weird, but today I woke up witha  really vivid dream about a board game, I don't know if I have just made it up or I have seen it being played and that made went into my mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game was like this. the first (darker) rows from each side , were the &quot;teachers&quot; and the second (lighter) the students, I actually remember some rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/noy4R.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/noy4R.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Students can move forward 1 circle &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teachers can stack upon students,&#xA;when student has 1 teacher it can move 1 circle in any direction,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For each aditional teacher upon a student it can move the amount of&#xA;teachers upon itself: 2 teachers = 2 circles in any direction, 3&#xA;teachers = 3 circles in any direction. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A piece can only take another&#xA;piece of the same value or below a student can take a student a&#xA;student+1 can take a  student+1 and a student a student+2 can take a &#xA;student+2 , student+1 and a student&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;teachers can't move unless there are no students on the board&#xA;once this happens teachers can be stacked in the same manner as students&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;a player loses when there are no more teachers available&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know it may be taken as offtopic, It just seems awfully specific for a dream and is bugging me , so I had to post&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16294" LastEditorUserId="16294" LastEditDate="2016-05-22T21:06:09.900" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:23:04.553" Title="Does this game or similar games exist?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30176" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30178" CreationDate="2016-05-23T00:10:53.887" Score="4" ViewCount="1089" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just this past weekend, I got my hands on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jsai.org/card2.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; playing cards. They contain all of the amino acids encoded as numbers ranging from 2 to 15, Aces, Barons, Knights, Jacks, Queens, Kings, and two Jokers. Barring the Jokers, there  is one of each number/face card per suit. The suits resemble those of your standard decks of cards. The game came with some sort of instructions that are in Japanese (I don't know enough Japanese to translate them), but I was wondering if anyone could point me towards the name off this set of cards (if it actually exists) or at least some games that I can play with them. I know that I can take out 11-15 and the Barons/Knights, but it would be cool to play something with all of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16297" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T06:45:51.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T07:02:49.647" Title="What is this oversized playing card deck for, with numbers 11-15 and Barons and Knights?" Tags="|identify-this-game|playing-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30177" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-23T01:35:32.793" Score="4" ViewCount="211" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got Quadropolis, and I'm confused by the Urbanist rule.  The rule is that, when you take a tile, you place the Urbanist in the place where the tile used to be, and the player after you can't point an architect at the Urbanist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems unnecessarily complicated.  In practice we regularly forget to move the Urbanist.  Also, people frequently seem to forget that they can't point an architect at the Urbanist -- I've caught a few people doing this, but I'm not sure how many have done it and not been noticed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's the calculation I usually perform.  I have three opponents, and clever placement of the Urbanist will inconvenience at most one of them.  It probably won't inconvenience them very much, since they probably have two or three tiles they want, and multiple ways to get those tiles.  If it does inconvenience them, at best I am kingmaking by hurting one opponent but not the other two.  On the other hand, if I take a suboptimal tile in order to inconvenience one of my opponents, that could hurt me a lot!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, it takes me a lot of thinking to figure out which tiles are even good for me.  If I also want to spend time evaluating my opponent's board state, that starts to get into analysis paralysis, and I want to respect the other players' time by not taking forever to evaluate something that's probably inconsequential.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why was this rule added?  If we ignore the rule, what mechanics in the game will break?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I suspect the rule might be more important in a two-player game.  I've been playing with four players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastEditorUserId="13484" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T18:31:56.940" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T18:31:56.940" Title="Do we really need the Urbanist?" Tags="|quadropolis|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30176" CreationDate="2016-05-23T07:02:49.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The deck wasn't made with 20 cards in each suit to match a particular kind of game — it was made with 20 cards because that's the number of amino acids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Google translate gives us some indicators of that from the product description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;4 to one of the base 4 in one of the suits, 20 of amino acid 1 from 20 (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normal playing cards 13 compared to the sheets, because the number &lt;em&gt;[ed: of amino acids]&lt;/em&gt; is large, J (Jack, 18 th), Q ( Queen, 19 number ) , K (King, 20 th) in front of the 16 as the number K N (Knight, Knight) , 17 as No. B are (Bishop, priest) the picture card of the addition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though very rough (&lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rough), they're acknowledging playing cards are usually 13 to a suit, but they voluntarily expanded the number and added a couple of picture cards because there's a larger number of amino acids than just 13.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page consistently says it's for Trump (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.instagram.com/p/6o8nXVGyp-/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Japanese name for our standard 52-card playing cards&lt;/a&gt;) and never identifies any other game for which you'd use these.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, it's something brand new, as they close off saying, and it's for you to figure out what you might like to do with these cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it is a new playing cards, to devise how to play, while having fun, the root of the living world is a principle DNA should understand the relationship between the amino acid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T07:02:49.647" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30167" CreationDate="2016-05-23T13:08:50.180" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The different options for setting up games are located on pages 22 and 23 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://dicemasters.com/wp-content/uploads/mdm/MDM_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;starter set rules&lt;/a&gt;. I have no idea if WizKids replicated these in the rulebook for the Civil War starter, but the link should get you going. Assuming you only have the starter set, you're best off going with the draft option for now. If you start buying additional packs it will become more feasible to build teams before a game using the Basic Teams setup. And if you really get into the game, the Tournament Teams setup will probably be what you'd use at your local gaming store. Below are the rules for each.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draft:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a useful style of play when only one player has a set of dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose a number between 8 and 20, based on the size of the collection being used. Both player will field up to that number of dice, and start the game with that many life. Shuffle the basic action cards and choose three or four of them at random to use. This makes for a different environment to consider when drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Place all the dice, sorted by type, in the center of the table. Place all the available  character and action cards in the center, stacking cards that share the same name together, even if they have different subtitles. Determine the first and second players. The second player picks first, choosing one card stack. If that player picks a stack with more than one card, that player must choose which card to use. The second player also takes all the dice for that character and decides how many (up to the max listed and the chosen team limit) to use. The first player then chooses. The players alternate until all cards have been chosen. Players use all cards for which they have dice. Cards that have no dice to them (e.g., the player drafted them after reaching the team limit) are not used in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Basic Teams:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use this variant when you want to explore new potentials and try new strategies. Each player starts with 15 life. Build your team to the following specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose two different Basic Action cards. You cannot bring two of the same Basic Action card. However, when you play, it’s possible that your opponent may have chosen the same card(s) as you did. That’s fine; there are just twice as many of those dice as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose up to 6 cards. You can choose any mix of characters and actions (except Basic actions), and you can mix teams, etc. However, you cannot choose more than one card with the same title on it, even if the cards have different subtitles. For example, if you choose Iron Man, Philanthropist, you cannot also choose Iron Man, Inventor. Choose up to 15 dice. Note that all cards have a limit on how many dice can be on the card. You cannot bring more dice than the card allows. You can bring less, of course, to make room for dice on other cards. However, each of your six cards you choose must have at least one die assigned to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player reveals the two Basic Action cards they want on the battlefield. It is possible that both players choose the same Basic Action card(s); in that case, there are two sets of those dice available. Assign colors to each of the Basic Action cards revealed, place them in the center of the table, and place the three matching dice on each one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then both players reveal their personal cards, and place their matching dice on them. Choose a first player and start fighting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tournament Teams:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For tournament competition, each player starts with 20 life. Build your team to the following specifications.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose two different Basic Action cards.  Choose up to 8 cards. You can choose any mix of characters and actions (except Basic actions), and you can mix teams, heroes with villains, etc. However, you cannot choose more than one card with the same title on it, even if the cards have different subtitles. Choose up to 20 dice. Note that all cards have a limit on how many dice can be on the card. You can bring less, of course, to make room for dice on other cards. However, each of your eight cards you choose must have at least one die assigned to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the tournament, reveal all the cards and dice you chose at the same time, and simultaneously with your designated opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T13:08:50.180" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29877" CreationDate="2016-05-23T16:18:44.643" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reason why the entry for Venomthropes does not list off &quot;two pairs of scything talons&quot; is because Venomthropes--unlike Raveners--have options for how to arm up that are zero cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the Fast Attack Ravener Brood entry, it lists under options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any Ravener may exchange one pair of scything talons for rending&#xA;  claws - 5 pts/model&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, a Ravener &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; have two pairs of scything talons--all the time--&lt;em&gt;unless&lt;/em&gt; you pay 5 pts/model to switch it out, using this optional upgrade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's focus on the Designer's Note you referenced:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Designer’s Note: Tyranid Melee weapons come as pairs. For game&#xA;  purposes, each pair is treated as a single Melee weapon. This means&#xA;  that Tyranid models must fight with two pairs of any Tyranid Melee&#xA;  weapons to gain a bonus Attack in close combat for fighting with two&#xA;  weapons. For example, a Hormagaunt armed with a single pair of&#xA;  scything talons does not gain a bonus Attack, but a Ravener with two&#xA;  pairs of scything talons, or a Genestealer with a pair of rending&#xA;  claws and a pair of scything talons, does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your model has four (4) lash whips, that is very straightforwardly two pairs of weapons.  Each pair is treated as a single melee weapon.  Your model therefore has two melee weapons and will gain a bonus attack in close combat for fighting with two weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or put another way:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set aside two lash whip models.  two bits, one pair, for game purposes single melee weapon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;set aside two lash whip models.  two bits, one pair, for game purposes single melee weapon.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;does the venomthrope support holding all of the physical weapon bits?  If the venomthrope has all four weapon bits, the venomthrope has two melee weapons.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in a normal assault-phase attack (non-charge), you would get &lt;strong&gt;3 attacks&lt;/strong&gt;: 2 (base attack score) +1 (double melee weaps)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7401" LastEditorUserId="7401" LastEditDate="2016-05-23T16:39:13.663" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T16:39:13.663" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:06:28.217" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My mom and I played just yesterday and I snuck in 6 cards without her knowing.I was actually too lazy to separate the piles and everything so I randomly put them in and got 4 right off the bat which was nice because it was uninterrupted playing. We found all 4 cures before the last two but by the time we finished the board was covered in cubes. My first hand I drew 4 red cards andred was cured in the second turn so that was lucky. It was funny my mom said &quot;I'm glad all the epidemic cards are gone.&quot; after the fourth one to which I said &quot;ha ha remember you love me, WE CAN DO IT!!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16301" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T17:06:28.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30182" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30177" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:34:35.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule was added because, as the sides of the board get more and more crowded, the urbanist blocks access to tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It then becomes a question of which is more important -- getting the specific tile you desperately want, or taking a less optimal tile that blocks your opponent from getting the tile &lt;strong&gt;he&lt;/strong&gt; desperately wants?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2016-05-23T17:34:35.197" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30183" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30190" CreationDate="2016-05-23T17:47:56.650" Score="5" ViewCount="1779" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Errors prior to the beginning of the game have a less disruptive option—a forced mulligan—that&#xA;  is not available at any other point during the game.&#xA;  ...&#xA;  If more than one&#xA;  excess card was drawn (for example, eight cards drawn during a mulligan to 6) his or her&#xA;  opponent continues removing cards until the correct number has been reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I played in FNM I accidentally drew 7 after I took a mulligan. My opponent forced me to mulligan down to 5. After reading the Infraction Procedure Guide and seeing that it says to go down to the &quot;correct number,&quot; was I supposed to be forced to mulligan to 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: How do I handle this situation for Regular REL and Competitive REL? Would I go down to 5 at Competitive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2021-03-17T16:22:07.290" LastActivityDate="2021-03-17T16:22:07.290" Title="Drawing an Extra Card During Mulligan" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-competitive-rel|mtg-regular-rel|mulligans|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30185" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30188" CreationDate="2016-05-24T02:31:21.223" Score="1" ViewCount="124" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a &quot;when your turn begins&quot; action trigger if the card is not in play during the &quot;turn begins&quot; phase but comes into play during the phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &quot;the supplier&quot; hosting a &quot;drug dealer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T04:58:11.937" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:55:21.863" Title="When does the 'Your turn begins' phase end?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1193" CreationDate="2016-05-24T05:36:47.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We play 5 and 6 player Mille Bornes without teams.  Our solution was to buy another deck of Mille Bornes cards and use those and play as you usually would.  You now have 220 cards instead of 110 cards.  We play five games.  1000 miles per game.  But we also stipulate that you must get exactly 1000 miles.  For example.  If you are at 975 miles you would need a 25 mile card to win.  Also, you must shout out Mille Bornes when you reach 1000 miles.  Hope this helps.  --- Mike  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16308" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T05:36:47.393" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30188" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30185" CreationDate="2016-05-24T08:28:44.403" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &amp;quot;turn begins&amp;quot; trigger happens only once (at step 1.2 of the corp/runners turn according to the timing structure chart). So a card installed when the triggers resolve would not itself trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also separately clarified for The Supplier in the official FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/android-netrunner/support/FAQ/Android-Netrunner%20FAQ.pdf&lt;/a&gt;) in the card clarification section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;56 The Supplier&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Runner cannot use any “when your turn begins”&#xA;abilities on cards that are installed by The Supplier until his next&#xA;turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T22:55:21.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30183" CreationDate="2016-05-24T11:44:23.750" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rules/ipg/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Infraction Procedure Guide&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; is the wrong document to refer to at FNM. FNMs are run at Regular REL, where players generally do not get penalized for gameplay errors. See the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rules/jar/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Judging at Regular REL&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular REL&lt;/a&gt; document for the kinds of fixes (rather than penalties) that can get dispensed at FNM. In this case, after you notice 7 cards in what should be your hand of 6, just shuffle one back. If you don't like your hand, you can continue taking mulligans normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the section on drawing extra cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the identity of the card(s) were known to all players, return them to their proper location. Otherwise, determine how many extra cards have been drawn, take that many cards at random from the player’s hand and place them on top of the library. Don’t shuffle the library after doing this! If the extra cards were drawn while drawing an opening hand, shuffle the extra cards back into the deck instead and allow the player to continue making mulligan decisions with the remaining cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you were playing at a Competitive REL tournament, you would receive a Game Play Error warning, and you (the player who took an incorrect mulligan) would have the &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rules/ipg2-4/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;option of two fixes&lt;/a&gt;: you could simply take an additional mulligan and go down another card, or you could reveal your hand and let your opponent choose cards to be shuffled back until you're down to the correct number of cards for the initially incorrect mulligan. So if you had mulled to 6 and drawn 7, in the second option you would let your opponent choose which single card to be shuffled back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, when in doubt, always call a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16311" LastEditorUserId="16311" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T16:30:26.970" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:30:26.970" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30190" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30183" CreationDate="2016-05-24T13:08:38.617" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Friday Night Magic runs at Regular REL, and is covered by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular&lt;/a&gt;. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_8apr16_ena.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_8apr16_ena.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; cover Competitive and Professional REL. This answer borrows from all three documents and covers all three RELs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should I call a judge?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Am I required to call a judge?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No. According to the Infraction Procedure Guide, it is acceptable for players to agree on a fix without calling a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a minor violation is quickly handled by the players to their mutual satisfaction, a judge does not need to intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Should a judge intervene if I don't call?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Judging at Regular describes that a judge should intervene, since you did something illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You should intervene if you see something illegal happen in a match, but beyond this you have a lot of room to tailor your actions. For example, whether you step in when you see a player miss a trigger should be determined by the tone you want to strike for your event – it may be appropriate to provide this extra help in a more causal environment, but not appropriate if your play group is more competitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is reiterated in the Tournament Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Judges do not intervene in a game to prevent illegal actions, but do intervene as soon as a rule has been broken or to prevent a situation from escalating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the ruling?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Regular REL, you will simply lose the extra cards. They'll be shuffled back into your library. From Judging at Regular:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the identity of the card(s) were known to all players, return them to their proper location. Otherwise, determine how many extra cards have been drawn, take that many cards at random from the player’s hand and place them on top of the library. If the extra cards were drawn while drawing the opening hand, shuffle the extra cards back into the deck instead and allow the player to continue making mulligan decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At Competitive or Professional REL, the ruling is different. You receive a warning, and then you have a choice. You may choose to allow your opponent to see your hand and remove cards equal to the excess number. If you do, then you can choose whether or not to mulligan. Otherwise, you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; mulligan. From the Infraction Procedure Guide on Game Play Error — Mulligan Procedure Error:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the player has too many cards in hand, he or she may choose to reveal his or her hand, and his or her opponent chooses a card from it to be shuffled back into the library. If more than one excess card was drawn (for example, eight cards drawn during a mulligan to 6) his or her opponent continues removing cards until the correct number has been reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If cards are not removed from the hand this way (either due to an error that didn’t lead to too many cards, or by the player choosing not to reveal), that player takes an additional mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may continue taking mulligans after the remedy has been completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You mulligan to six, but accidentally draw seven. You choose to reveal your hand. Your opponent removes cards equal to the excess (one card). You are left with six cards, and  and you retain the option to mulligan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You mulligan to six, but accidentally draw seven. You choose not to reveal your and. You are forced to mulligan. You are left with five cards, and you retain the option to mulligan.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T16:30:02.703" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T16:30:02.703" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30194" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:19:45.577" Score="1" ViewCount="560" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a card called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Emeria%20Shepherd&quot;&gt;Emeria Shepherd&lt;/a&gt; that reads (among others, emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Landfall&lt;/em&gt; - Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, return target &lt;strong&gt;nonland&lt;/strong&gt; permanent card from your graveyard to your hand. If that card is a &lt;strong&gt;Plains&lt;/strong&gt;, you may return that nonland permanent card to the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a nonland permanent card that is a plains?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12281" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T17:34:10.320" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:03:46.763" Title="Are there any nonland Plains?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30192" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30191" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:21:47.663" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your text is slightly off.  It's actually:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, you may return target nonland permanent card from your graveyard to your hand. If that &lt;strong&gt;land&lt;/strong&gt; is a Plains, you may return that nonland permanent card to the battlefield instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, it's referring to the land that triggers landfall, not the nonland permanent you're targeting in your graveyard. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="7128" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T17:57:41.890" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T17:57:41.890" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30191" CreationDate="2016-05-24T17:57:38.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@JonTheMon points out how a misinterpretation of the card's text led to your question. However, the literal answer to your question is no, there are no nonland plains (shown in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=t%3A%22plains%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this query&lt;/a&gt;). All 13 cards with the subtype &lt;em&gt;Plains&lt;/em&gt; also have the type &lt;em&gt;Land&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T18:00:15.227" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:00:15.227" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30191" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:03:46.763" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are not any cards that are non-land and a Plains. This is because each type has their own list of subtypes that can be associated with them and Plains is a land subtype. Cards cannot have subtypes that don't match one of their types, therefore it is impossible to have a card that is a Plains but not a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.3d&lt;/strong&gt; An object can’t gain a subtype that doesn’t correspond to one of that object’s types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.3i&lt;/strong&gt; Lands have their own unique set of subtypes; these subtypes are called land types. The land types are Desert, Forest, Gate, Island, Lair, Locus, Mine, Mountain, Plains, Power-Plant, Swamp, Tower, and Urza’s.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Of that list, Forest, Island, Mountain, Plains, and Swamp are the basic land types. See rule 305.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as had been mentioned the second sentence of the Shepard's ability should be &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;If that &lt;strong&gt;land&lt;/strong&gt; is a Plains, you may return that nonland permanent card to the battlefield instead.&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt; referring to the land that triggered the ability in the first place, not the card you target in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:03:46.763" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30195" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:12:06.320" Score="2" ViewCount="512" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alice and Nathan are playing in a Competitive REL tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alice mulligans to six cards but accidentally draws seven cards. Alice and Nathan agree to not to call a judge, and instead apply their own solution where Alice mulligans to five cards. After drawing her five cards, Alice has a change of heart. She calls a judge to get an official ruling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Alice had called a judge before applying the solution she and Nathan agreed to, then the judge would have applied the remedy described in the Infraction Procedure Guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the player has too many cards in hand, he or she may choose to reveal his or her hand, and his or her opponent chooses a card from it to be shuffled back into the library. If more than one excess card was drawn (for example, eight cards drawn during a mulligan to 6) his or her opponent continues removing cards until the correct number has been reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If cards are not removed from the hand this way (either due to an error that didn’t lead to too many cards, or by the player choosing not to reveal), that player takes an additional mulligan.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may continue taking mulligans after the remedy has been completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should a judge fix or partially fix a solution that was implemented by the players, or should the judge let the situation stand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:50:47.273" Title="Should a judge fix a solution agreed to by players?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30196" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30120" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:16:24.003" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A lot depends on what the other bid is likely to mean, and whether other people bid beforehand (question doesn't say). For example 1H-? is different from 1D-1NT-2H-? or 1D-1H-DBL-PASS-? each of which might have a heart 4 or 5 card suit which otherwise could be bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might also want to consider whether to double to show values, pass and wait (you can always re enter the bidding next round which will say a lot to your partner), or try and find a different fit which allows a cross ruff in hearts and some suit you are short in (once trumps are eliminated in the other short-suited hand).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But sometimes you just don't have a bid, and its fine to let things pan out and the other side try to make it. After all, if they stick to hearts or NT you have potential defensive strength they won't expect (although perhaps entry issues if weak elsewhere) and if they change suit, pass at low level, or panic when doubled at a higher level, you can always re-enter the bidding at a better time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16275" LastEditorUserId="16275" LastEditDate="2016-05-24T18:34:39.707" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:34:39.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30195" CreationDate="2016-05-24T18:51:16.803" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players cannot make rulings, that should be obvious; only judges can. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Judges do not intervene in a game to prevent illegal actions, but do intervene as soon as a rule has been broken or &lt;strong&gt;to prevent a situation from escalating.&lt;/strong&gt; More information on floor judge responsibilities can be found in the Magic Infraction Procedure Guide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if a rule has been broken but the game has continued, whether or not the players are aware that a rule has been broken, the judge will intervene as soon as he or she is aware of the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players can only make decisions regarding how to play the game, and if it comes to the attention of a judge that game rules have been broken, the judge will try to restore the game to a correct state as best as possible up to and including restarting the game, and/or will issue the necessary penalties according to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular REL rules&lt;/a&gt; or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; after evaluating all the evidence and assessing the situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T18:51:16.803" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30202" CreationDate="2016-05-24T19:54:28.933" Score="0" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought some &quot;yunzi&quot; stones that came in straw bowls, but they aren't translucent at all. They are fully opaque.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering the price paid (around 35 dollars, I bought it in Brazil), I think that they weren't the real deal, but they look nice anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94ztF.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/94ztF.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture of the stones&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, should/can I oil them? What are they made off?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16312" LastEditorUserId="16312" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T11:33:17.807" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T11:33:17.807" Title="Oiling fake Yunzi stones" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2016-05-26T15:50:02.097" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30195" CreationDate="2016-05-24T21:50:47.273" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a judge is made aware of a situation where the players agreed to a fix that does not follow the rules they need to intervene and make sure appropriate action is taken. The reason is that even a single match can change the tournament standings if tiebreakers are needed between different players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The following tiebreakers are used to determine how a player ranks in a tournament:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  1. Match points&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  2. Opponents’ match-win percentage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  3. Game-win percentage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  4. Opponents’ game-win percentage&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Definitions of these tiebreakers can be found in Appendix C. Not all of these tiebreakers may be used in formats&#xA;  with single-game matches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mistake in a game where players agree on a solution that can end up changing the tie-breaking formula if the correct ruling would have ended up with a different game/match winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-05-24T21:50:47.273" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30200" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T05:18:52.247" Score="4" ViewCount="3884" Body="&lt;p&gt;In tournaments are you allowed to custom cosmetics like custom Space Marine shoulder Pads and heads, as long as the rest of the figure, weapons and wargear are all official. I found a website that makes custom parts I wish to use with my Marines but I wasn't sure if they were legal in tournaments &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?art=871#i/conversion_parts/big/lion_shoulderpads.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Stuff like this&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?art=1881#i/2013/big/sf_roman_legionaries_heads_01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?art=1285#i/conversion_parts_2012/big/egyptian_helmets_2_01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,shop.php?art=997#i/2010/big/egiptian_shoulderpads_01.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;and this&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15518" LastEditorUserId="15518" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T05:59:15.653" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T00:48:13.343" Title="Can you use custom made cosmetics on 40K figures?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|warhammer-fantasy|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30201" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T09:19:28.137" Score="4" ViewCount="210" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to self-publish my card game with a service that will ship the game to buyers. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game would include 45 poker-size cards, 17 A5-size cards, 6 small cards carrying 1-6 numbers (as a replacement for a die), a game instructions sheet and a box. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know two services:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;TGC but I read they are expensive and not high quality for cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;DriveThru Cards seems to be great but I believe they don't do boxes, am I right? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other services which could do this for me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16315" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T09:25:05.867" LastActivityDate="2016-12-13T21:47:15.640" Title="Self-publishing options for a card came with box" Tags="|playing-cards|game-development|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-12-14T14:24:50.703" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30198" CreationDate="2016-05-25T11:29:33.553" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would suggest a &lt;em&gt;spot test&lt;/em&gt;. Try oiling a small, inconspicuous section of one stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T11:29:33.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30200" CreationDate="2016-05-25T12:47:40.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For cosmetic stuff like this, you should be ok.  The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.frontlinegaming.org/community/frontline-gamings-independent-tournament-circuit/itc-2015-season-40k-tournament-format/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;ITC rules&lt;/a&gt; certainly don't make any distinction about things like that, as long as it is clear what the model represents.  Other tournaments may have differing rules - for example the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.novaopen.com/warhammer-40k/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;NOVA open tournament&lt;/a&gt; states that if your models are different from the standard, you cannot gain any unfair advantages (for example, making a model taller to give it better line of sight), but otherwise states that as long as your models are clear on what they represent, you should be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, modifying or converting models is a big part of the hobby, and most tourneys accept and embrace it - with some even having awards for best converted model or the like.  However, it is always in your best interest to read the rules for any tournament you may want to enter and, if you have any questions, contact the organizer to ensure you'll be compliant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T12:47:40.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:49:32.593" Score="9" ViewCount="3690" Body="&lt;p&gt;The diagram below illustrates the question.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1oMRV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1oMRV.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16320" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:05:33.010" Title="Can a single checker make two hits?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T15:58:14.313" Score="4" ViewCount="616" Body="&lt;p&gt;Typical card-counting, which treats 2,3,4,5,and 6 as &quot;+1&quot; and 10's as &quot;-1&quot;, requires card counters to keep track of each card as it's dealt. I wonder if you can get a reasonable approximation of this by just counting the number of cards that are on the table and ignoring what cards they are.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when a player stands after exactly two cards, they usually have something like 10-8, 10-10, 9-7 (against dealer 6), etc. so the count is usually negative.  If a player stands after three or more cards, there's usually a 2 thru 6 in there, often more than one, so the count is usually positive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Through simulation, general averages could possibly be determined; for example, hypothetically, Two cards = -0.75; Three cards = +0.6, Four cards = +1.8, Five or more cards = +3.25.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm envisioning a system where instead of counting +1, -1 as each card gets dealt, you begin with a negative &quot;x&quot; count (under the assumption that each player will use exactly 2 cards), and then increase the count by &quot;y&quot; for each card beyond the second that any player receives, regardless of its value.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edited to add: This would be a cumulative count, and at the beginning of each new hand you'd continue by again subtracting &quot;x&quot; from your current count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could such a system provide enough advantage to be useful to a beginner?  Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16175" LastEditorUserId="16175" LastEditDate="2016-05-25T18:07:37.563" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T19:53:29.707" Title="Is it possible to count cards by literally counting cards?" Tags="|blackjack|card-counting|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30204" CreationDate="2016-05-25T16:05:33.010" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rule against a single checker hitting two blots in one turn. At &lt;a href=&quot;http://backgammonrules.net/start-middle-game&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;backgammonrules.net&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hitting blots&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player moves to a point occupied by only one of his opponent's checkers, the checker is hit. Hit checkers are forced to re-enter. This slows their owner down. The opponent proceeds - and a player ahead in the race home is more likely to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep an eye on points occupied by a single checker, since these checkers are blots and can be hit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hit when you can, but weigh the risk of thereby leaving a blot yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Opt for a two-stage move to throw out two blots at once or hit one and move on to a safe place.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place the hit blots on the bar.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T16:05:33.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30205" CreationDate="2016-05-25T17:01:08.570" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer is almost certainly &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt;. Card counting is used primarily to determine how much to bet - a standard strategy might look like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-1 or smaller: find a better table&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;-1 to +1: bet table minimum (still in casino's favor but worth waiting around)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;+1 or higher: start betting big (the game has tilted in your favor)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I haven't run the simulations, but my guess is that the correlations you'd find are too small, e.g. Two cards = -0.05; Three cards = 0, Four cards = +0.05. Unless any of the numbers are greater than 1 or less than -1, you can't do anything useful with the information.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, I think if it were as easy as counting the cards on the table, everyone would be doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-25T17:01:08.570" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30208" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-25T19:06:09.060" Score="2" ViewCount="862" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm try to program a blackjack strategy which makes use of a predetermined chart of moves given the dealer's upcard and the user's hand total. The version I'm implementing only allows hitting and standing — no doubling down, splitting, or surrendering. Furthermore I'm forcing the dealer to keep hitting until his total is greater than or equal to 17 — so no soft-17 rule. I've looked all over and haven't been able to find a chart that meets these specifications — could anybody help me get one? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16321" LastActivityDate="2019-09-25T16:39:27.273" Title="Blackjack Strategy Chart for only hitting and standing" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30220" CreationDate="2016-05-25T22:06:48.887" Score="7" ViewCount="1167" Body="&lt;p&gt;From comments and such on here and boardgamegeek.com, quickly building rooms and getting family growth seems to be just about the most important early part of Agricola. The hard part is balancing getting rooms and family growth with feeding the family.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In context of a 3 player game (no +2 of any resource you want, only +1), my other two friends and I will fight tooth and nail over reed to get those rooms out. It is to the point that there is almost never 2 reed on the reed space. If there is one reed on the action space we will not let the starting player get that two reed for that advantage, so one of us non starting players will take the single reed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, we all seem to do OK as far as points go, but I am wondering if anyone can weigh in on their thoughts as to how efficient this is? Is it worth it to take a single reed twice for that first room (or even second)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes this is easier if someone has a card that provides reed somehow, or a reduced need for reed, but there are times when none of those cards come out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a bonus/addon question, is it worth it to build all 5 rooms as fast as possible, or build 4 and use family growth even without room. This should be in context of both situations of having cards that give bonus points for 5 rooms, and not having those cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;EDIT&lt;/strong&gt;:&#xA;It seems my friends and I were playing wrong. When I learned a couple years ago, I was taught when grain was harvested, we take all 3 grain from the field at the harvest. AND, when animals bred, 2 sheep ( for example ) would make 1 more sheep, 4 sheep would make 2 more, 6 would make 3, etc...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that being said, other actions have quite a bit more value than they did with our erroneous rules, so reed is no where NEAR of a prominent bottleneck as it was before. For instance, we now value taking that extra turn to get out the Seasonal Worker and use the Day Laborer action space more frequently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suppose the abstract question still exists, &quot;Is early family growth worth taking a couple inefficient turns to get early.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="15783" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T22:49:08.520" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T23:06:41.987" Title="Agricola Family Growth importance threshold" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30210" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T01:33:25.343" Score="0" ViewCount="137" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Goblin%20Fireslinger&quot;&gt;Goblin Fireslinger&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield, which would have summoning sickness, can I tap it that turn to use its ability or do I have to wait an extra turn to use it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16324" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T03:14:29.317" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T03:45:19.937" Title="Tapping Active Abilities when they have summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-26T03:36:41.570" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30210" CreationDate="2016-05-26T01:37:19.300" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Summoning sickness applies to all abilities of a creature that include the tap symbol as a cost, but other abilities with other costs may be played instantly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16325" LastEditorUserId="16325" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T03:45:19.937" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T03:45:19.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30212" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30213" CreationDate="2016-05-26T04:13:41.620" Score="1" ViewCount="1055" Body="&lt;p&gt;What do knights have to do with making a robber go where you want and steal from your competition for you? Are they all corrupt knights in league with the same robber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16326" LastEditorUserId="16326" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T05:02:19.513" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T06:03:50.630" Title="In Catan, why do knights allow you to move the robber and steal?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-05-31T09:00:01.780" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30212" CreationDate="2016-05-26T06:03:50.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thematically, the knight is maintaining order by chasing away the robber from your lands. Mechanically though, if knights could &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; move the robber then developing and activating knights wouldn't be as interesting and worthwhile, so you get to steal too. Which means thematically, the robber... sends you a gift for not jailing him instead? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T06:03:50.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30214" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30208" CreationDate="2016-05-26T06:04:38.963" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You shouldn't have much trouble at all finding a chart..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you are looking for is known as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack#Basic_strategy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Basic Strategy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replace any double/split with a hit, surrender with fold if your simulation does not allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: As Hymie pointed out in the comments, splits are not always a hit.. in fact many splits you would stand on. A close approximation would be to use the same rules as if pairs (6,6 8,8 etc) were just treated as though they were their totals (12, 16 in those examples).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally speaking, if the dealer card is 7 or better, you draw to 17, otherwise you draw until 12 and stand otherwise (with some exceptions, notably 12 vs dealer 2,3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not sure if you allow soft-totals for the player..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16115" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T13:54:02.023" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T13:54:02.023" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30208" CreationDate="2016-05-26T07:07:34.503" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why not make the software self learning?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are several strategies. Code them all (preferably parameterized). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now start a sequence of simulations and compare the results for each strategy. You can then drop the worst and add adaptations of the winners. Then continue. Until you are satisfied by the result.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the final product, use some of the winning strategies with a probability similar to the result. This way you eliminate the predictability of the strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T07:07:34.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30216" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30218" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:10:41.597" Score="9" ViewCount="15520" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;we can place settlements only beside roads leading to it or away from it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;we can place roads beside roads or settlements.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During initial placement, we have the choice of placing two settlements and roads in successive turns. If we follow the above rules, Can we do the following placement?:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbKTe.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbKTe.png&quot; alt=&quot;Initial Settlement Scenario&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There doesn't seem to be any rules in the rule book regarding this, and it is an exceptional case to the above mentioned rules!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16328" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2021-07-02T20:41:59.997" LastActivityDate="2021-07-02T20:41:59.997" Title="Can both starting roads be placed on the same settlement?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30217" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-26T08:51:42.663" Score="7" ViewCount="3200" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about the Sow action in Agricola. Namely, consider the following:&#xA; - You sow a field, so now you have 3 grains on it.&#xA; - Harvest happens, so you have 2 grains on the field and 1 grain in your personal supply.&#xA; - You take the Sow action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; does the field 'top up'? In other words, will the final result be that your field now has 3 grains on it again and you retain the 1 grain in your personal supply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's how we've been playing it, but rereading the rules I cannot find a mention of that particular case. If our ruling is wrong, it seems to me a bit strange - baking/sowing strategies have always been considered by us to be &quot;weaker&quot; than going straight for animal breeding -&gt; cooking hearth -&gt; 13 food/harvest with no extra actions, and any nerf to sowing hurts the baking strategies even further...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16329" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T01:48:35.337" Title="Topping up fields in agricola" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30216" CreationDate="2016-05-26T09:22:57.480" Score="24" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.catan.com/files/downloads/catan_base_rules_2020_200707.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the official game rules&lt;/a&gt;, under &amp;quot;Set-Up Phase&amp;quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The starting player places a settlement on an unoccupied intersection of their choice, then places a road adjacent to this settlement. The other players then follow clockwise. Everyone places 1 settlement and 1 adjoining road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once all players have built their first settlement, the player who went last in the first round begins round two. That player builds their second settlement and its adjacent road.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, a player may not place their second road adjacent to their previously-placed settlement, or the road leading from it, because the above rule explicitly instructs that the 2nd road is built adjacent to the 2nd settlement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16330" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2021-07-01T20:20:53.350" LastActivityDate="2021-07-01T20:20:53.350" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30217" CreationDate="2016-05-26T09:31:36.143" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, the field does not 'top up'&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot sow the field again until it is empty again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the page 6 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Grain may be sown in empty fields. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the side panel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Grain becomes 3, 1 Vegetable becomes 2. Players can use the Sow action to sow several empty fields at once. It is irrelevant whether Grain or Vegetables was sown in the field previously. If it has been completely Harvested, it may be re-Sown. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the extended example in the side panel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He cannot plant anything in the third field, because it still contains one Grain. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Strategy&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I generally favour sowing and baking over eating animals - I find it gives much more food in the long run.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general grain/bake bread strategy goes: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stage 1:&lt;/strong&gt; Get at least one field sowed. This takes three actions (Plow, Take grain, Sow). If you can, it's nice to get two fields sowed, but there might be other actions (eg. taking wood) that might be more worthwhile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stage 2:&lt;/strong&gt; At harvest you recieved one grain.  Plow and sow another field (two actions). Acquire enough food using other means to feed your family. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stage 3 and beyond:&lt;/strong&gt; You are now producing at least two grain each harvest. Build either the Stone or Clay oven. Now when you sow, you sow one of your grains, and bake the other(s). That's an easy five/eight food, which is more or less enough to feed your family for that harvest. Also in stage 3 you should get a vegetable, and sow that. The vegetable is for points only, and remember that you only need four for max points, so don't go overboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Compare grain to sheep as a food source&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you are getting every single sheep that comes out. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's only four sheep in stage 1, three sheep in stage 2, and two sheep in the remaining stages. You'll also get one bonus sheep per stage at harvest. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the later two round stages, that's a maximum of &lt;strong&gt;six&lt;/strong&gt; food you can get solely from cooking sheep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whereas if you have say, 5 fields of grain, you could potentially be producing &lt;strong&gt;twenty five&lt;/strong&gt; food from grain each stage. Admittedly this requires you to be using actions. Remember that if you have two ovens you can use them both in the same bake bread action.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T01:48:35.337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T01:48:35.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30209" CreationDate="2016-05-26T09:50:44.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sole* value of getting family growth is having extra action. Each round that you can get family growth earlier and is one extra action you can take. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*Actually there are other reasons you might want to take family growth earlier - to block other people from taking it that round, or in order to not lose out on the three points for the family member at the end of the game, if other people take the space before you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When weighing up whether it's worth:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) taking resources in order to build a room (ie. wood, reed)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b) building the room/family growth&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need to consider what that one extra turn is worth. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there is 6 wood there, is the one extra turn really worth the six wood? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there are five sheep there, is the one extra turn worth the five sheep?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you can see that another player is short on food, and there's four food in the fishing pond, you might consider taking taking the food as an aggressive strategy that will hurt them despite them having an extra family member. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely, generally speaking, growing your family early is a good a strategy, and extrapolating from that, that means taking the necessary resources (wood and reed) for yourself, or preventing others from getting resources is a good strategy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does suggest that the 'take the single reed' could possibly be a reasonable strategy - both to acquire the resource for yourself, and to prevent others from grabbing the two reed the next round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though - remember there is always the day labour in order to grab a single reed, and it would cripple your own game to try block both those spots each turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally I don't favour taking a single reed - there are probably better options - such as plowing fields, or taking the wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One better strategy, is if you are in last playing position, and there is still the one reed there, then you take starting player as your last move. This lets you grab the two reed first at the start of the next round. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T23:06:41.987" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T23:06:41.987" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30221" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30222" CreationDate="2016-05-26T09:55:10.950" Score="1" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have declared attackers and tapped them as stated in the rules. After the defending player has declared blockers, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tenacity&quot;&gt;Tenacity&lt;/a&gt; (&amp;quot;Creatures you control get +1/+1 and gain lifelink until end of turn. Untap those creatures.&amp;quot;) Can I now Untap them while they remain being attackers? Or do they stop being attackers? While the mechanics of this spell are clear when cast as a defending player before declaring blockers, the attacking side confuses me. I have been unable to find an answer over the internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16332" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T11:11:12.133" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:11:12.133" Title="If I untap all my attackers, do they stay attacking?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-05-26T13:46:12.023" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30221" CreationDate="2016-05-26T10:31:27.367" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is answered in the magic comprehensive rules, rule 506.4, in particular 506.4b:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.4 A permanent is removed from combat if it leaves the battlefield, if its controller changes, if it phases out, if an effect specifically removes it from combat, if it's a planeswalker that's being attacked and stops being a planeswalker, or if it's an attacking or blocking creature that regenerates (see rule 701.12) or stops being a creature. A creature that's removed from combat stops being an attacking, blocking, blocked, and/or unblocked creature. A planeswalker that's removed from combat stops being attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.4b Tapping or untapping a creature that's already been declared as an attacker or blocker doesn't remove it from combat and doesn't prevent its combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the attacking creature is not removed from combat when it is untapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2763" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T10:31:27.367" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30223" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30224" CreationDate="2016-05-26T10:36:57.313" Score="6" ViewCount="1234" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Neglected%20Heirloom&quot;&gt;Neglected Heirloom&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When equipped creature transforms, transform Neglected Heirloom.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, on the other side of this sword, there is nothing about transforming the equipment back. Does the transform rule exist, and keep transforming the equipment back and forth with the equipped creature, or does it stay on the once transformed version until stated otherwise by another effect or removed from the battleground?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16332" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-26T11:27:24.263" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:27:24.263" Title="Will Neglected Heirloom ever transform back again?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30223" CreationDate="2016-05-26T11:26:39.153" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neglected Heirloom transforms once, into &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ashmouth%20Blade&quot;&gt;Ashmouth Blade&lt;/a&gt;, and stays that way. (Until something exceptional happens, like another effect or removal, like you said.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The transformation rule on the &lt;em&gt;Neglected Heirloom&lt;/em&gt; front face doesn't matter once it's transformed. The currently face-up side is all that matters, which is &lt;em&gt;Ashmouth Blade&lt;/em&gt;. It doesn't have an ability that transforms it, so that's that. &lt;em&gt;Neglected Heirloom&lt;/em&gt;'s transform ability doesn't exist anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's several other cards that transform only one way, so this isn't entirely unusual, and for all of those the other face no longer matters. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ormendahl%2C%20Profane%20Prince&quot;&gt;Ormendahl, Profane Prince&lt;/a&gt; doesn't have the mana-generating abilities of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Westvale%20Abbey&quot;&gt;Westvale Abbey&lt;/a&gt; either, for example, and doesn't have anything available to transform it back into a building.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Also, because of the &amp;quot;no flippy-floppy&amp;quot; rules change &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/shadows-over-innistrad-mechanics&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;introduced with Shadows over Innistrad&lt;/a&gt;, that original ability on its front face can't transform it back and forth if the equipped creature happens to transform multiple times at once.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T11:26:39.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30225" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30205" CreationDate="2016-05-26T13:31:11.063" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the cards are randomly shuffled and if you're just counting the number of cards without regard for their values, then you effectively have a constant &quot;count&quot; of 0.  The whole point of counting is to monitor the values of the played cards to determine what values are left in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T13:31:11.063" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25040" CreationDate="2016-05-26T16:58:43.207" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the dutch fluxx card says &quot;the one with the most keepers &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; play one more card&quot; (as opposed to &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; play one more card) then it would be that player's choice if they want to play the last card or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key is in the compulsion, since &quot;can&quot; is not compulsory. It is possible that the wording in dutch has different compulsory connotations, but based on the English translation, I can only conclude that it is not required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16337" LastActivityDate="2016-05-26T16:58:43.207" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30200" CreationDate="2016-05-27T00:48:13.343" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends largely on your Tournament Organiser, as there are no 'official' GW run tournaments any more. Most places I have seen are fine so long as the model is WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) - which means that it's easily recognisable for what it is and what it's equipped with (i.e. customised shoulder pads/ head swaps etc are fine, but don't try and pass a lasgun off as meltagun).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big thing to ask yourself is this: Will there be any confusion from my opponent on what my models are, and what they are capable of?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If in doubt, get in touch with your TO, but I would be very surprised if they turned you down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T00:48:13.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29485" CreationDate="2016-05-27T00:58:36.203" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From Codex Space Marines, under the Cluster Mine entry in the Glossary:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...&lt;em&gt;may booby trap a single piece of battlefield terrain...&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That reads as a specific, identified piece of terrain as placed during set-up. I.e. woods, ruins etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only mention of &quot;small&quot; is the suggestion to place a small marker to remind both players of the booby trapped terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure where you have seen the &quot;small area&quot; - can you provide a reference (it could be a variation between printings perhaps?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T00:58:36.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30230" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4945" CreationDate="2016-05-27T15:07:00.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Overall, most cards of the same rarity have the same frequency of occurring. As an exception, in sets with 101 commons, exactly 1 common is short printed and shows up 5 times for every 6 times each other common in the set would. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because there are 2 Print Sheets of 121 cards, Sheet A with 60 cards showing up twice and 1 showing once and Sheet B has 40 cards showing 3 times and the same card showing once. Sheet A and B are printed at a ratio of 3:2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For sets containing double-faced cards, the double-faced cards use their own sheet. For example, in shadows over innistrad, a regular uncommon card would occur exactly 1/80 + 1/79 + 1/78 times per pack on average (3.8% of the time), while a double-faced uncommon would occur exactly 1/30 times per pack on average (3.3% of the time).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both the double-sided uncommons and commons occur on the same sheet in SOI, as there are only 5 double-sided commons in the set. This is also assuming the double-sided uncommons occur 4 times per sheet, while commons 8 times per sheet, which creates the ratio closest to the regular ratio, the closest ratio on the other side would be uncommons 5 times per sheet, commons 4 times would have each unique uncommon show up more often than each unique common which is opposite of normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15726" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T15:07:00.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30233" CreationDate="2016-05-27T20:25:13.237" Score="4" ViewCount="7521" Body="&lt;p&gt;The situation/question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nahiri%2C%20the%20Harbinger&quot;&gt;Nahiri, the Harbinger&lt;/a&gt;. I use her &amp;quot;-2:  Exile target enchantment, tapped artifact, or tapped creature&amp;quot; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Elusive%20Tormentor&quot;&gt;Elusive Tormentor&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;My opponent transforms Elusive Tormentor, which gives it hexproof.&#xA;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Insidious%20Mist&quot;&gt;Insidious Mist&lt;/a&gt; get exiled or does my spell no longer work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15970" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2016-05-27T21:25:23.243" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T21:25:23.243" Title="Giving a creature hexproof as a response" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-08-10T13:51:46.457" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30232" CreationDate="2016-05-27T20:36:05.203" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nahiri's ability would be countered due to a lack of legal target (commonly called 'fizzling'). This is because the legality of a target is checked at 2 different times, when the ability is activated and put on the stack and then again when the ability goes to resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. [...] Other changes to the game state may cause a target to no longer be legal; for example, its characteristics may have changed or an effect may have changed the text of the spell. [...] The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word “target,” are now illegal. If the spell or ability is not countered, it will resolve normally. Illegal targets, if any, won’t be affected by parts of a resolving spell’s effect for which they’re illegal. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; Sorin’s Thirst is a black instant that reads, “Sorin’s Thirst deals 2 damage to target creature and you gain 2 life.” If the creature isn’t a legal target during the resolution of Sorin’s Thirst (say, if the creature has gained protection from black or left the battlefield), then Sorin’s Thirst is countered. Its controller doesn’t gain any life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-27T20:36:05.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30234" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30205" CreationDate="2016-05-28T00:01:23.900" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The disadvantage of your system is that it is imprecise, as discussed below; the advantage is that it is a &quot;nonstandard&quot; method of card counting, and you may get less &quot;heat&quot; from the casino. But I think you're onto something here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, there are 20 10- and 11- valued cards (counting aces) in the deck, and 32 other cards, in a ratio of nearly 2 to 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, if someone stops at two cards, especially against a dealer's 4,5, or 6, it's likely that their total count is the the 16-21 range, meaning that at least one card is a &quot;10.&quot; And if the values are 10-8 or 9-9, the second card is &quot;close enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone draws a third card, that suggests at least one, probably two non-ten cards, originally. Note that it is possible to &quot;bust&quot; with something like 9-8-7. or even 6-7-9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If someone draws a fourth card, that suggests an average value for the first three cards of four or less, meaning all low cards (except possibly the last).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So a bunch of two card draws are not good for the player, three card draws are normal to good, and four card draws are great.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player playing perfect strategy and &quot;flat&quot; betting is about a 1% disadvantage to the house, but if you can use the above to vary your bets, it could cancel out the house advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T16:42:16.463" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T16:42:16.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="42357" CreationDate="2016-05-28T00:20:03.580" Score="5" ViewCount="273" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fanatic has a card called &amp;quot;End of Days&amp;quot; that destroys most every card in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the Environment turn, destroy all cards in play, other than this card, character cards, and Relics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, destroy this card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Several villains, such as the Dreamer, can place cards underneath them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a Projection card is destroyed, it is placed under this card. At the start of the Villain turn, if there are (H) times 2 cards underneath this card, the heroes win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does End of Days affect these &amp;quot;underneath&amp;quot; cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-05-24T13:19:19.907" Title="Does End of Days affect cards underneath another card (e.g. The Dreamer's defeated Projections)?" Tags="|sentinels-of-the-multiverse|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30236" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30235" CreationDate="2016-05-28T01:37:27.187" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two things at play here. First is that once a projection card is destroyed and placed under the dreamers card they are no longer in play. Second is that even when they are under the dreamers card they are sill projections so if they where able to get destroyed they would be placed right back under the card per the rules of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T01:37:27.187" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30237" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30238" CreationDate="2016-05-28T03:52:18.557" Score="3" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;So imagine this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My 5/5 with trample attacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It's blocked by a 1/1 and a 2/2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I assign damage as 1 to the 1/1, 2 to the 2/2, and 2 to the player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And then they play a card to boost their 1/1, making it a 5/5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13380" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T11:46:04.267" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T14:53:16.773" Title="What happens with trample when a boost is cast during damage assignment?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30237" CreationDate="2016-05-28T04:04:40.977" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;They cannot boost after you have assigned your damage. The last chance that players have to activate abilities and cast instants is in the declare blockers step, after all blockers have been assigned. They could cast a boost at that point, but you would already know the actual toughness when assigning damage, and you would have to assign lethal damage to the first creature before moving on to the second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that prior to the 10th edition, released in 2006, damage DID use the stack, so after damage went on the stack, there would be a chance to respond before it resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-05-28T14:53:16.773" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T14:53:16.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15490" CreationDate="2016-05-28T13:23:10.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the game and thought that I did need to eradicate all to win (clean sweep of board).  I didn't realize that you just need to cure (cubes still remaining).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, by my 3rd solo / duo-hand play with the Scientist and Medic, we won a 4-epidemic game with eradication.  Luck of the draw and very strategic planning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16354" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T13:23:10.203" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30240" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28229" CreationDate="2016-05-28T19:15:55.357" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would beg to differ with Jefromi.  As per the On The Brink expansion instructions, if a player wants to discard a card voluntarily it will cost them an action.  This is explained on the back page under the Archivist section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16356" LastActivityDate="2016-05-28T19:15:55.357" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30241" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30265" CreationDate="2016-05-29T02:17:13.250" Score="1" ViewCount="573" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Westeros decks I and II there is a 'Winter Is Coming' card, which says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Immediately shuffle this deck. Then draw and resolve a new card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are you meant to shuffle the cards of that deck that have already been played in previous rounds, or are they left out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T08:34:24.977" Title="Do you shuffle the already played cards back into the deck when using the 'Winter Is Coming' card?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30242" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-29T07:16:29.737" Score="6" ViewCount="275" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are playing the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;6p&lt;/em&gt; Game of Thrones &lt;em&gt;(2nd Ed)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; as &lt;strong&gt;Greyjoy&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the first round, everyone still has exactly &lt;em&gt;5 power tokens&lt;/em&gt;. At the start of the second, a bidding on the &lt;em&gt;influence tracks&lt;/em&gt; occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is an optimal bidding strategy so that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you keep the &lt;strong&gt;Valyrian Steel Blade&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you get at least &lt;em&gt;4th place&lt;/em&gt; (one star) on the &lt;strong&gt;Messenger Raven&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, it's not possible in worst case scenarios and there are a lot of variables. Still I'm interested in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;game theory analysis (including or not what different houses find valuable)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;personal experience (statistics for the distribution of &lt;em&gt;tokens&lt;/em&gt; in similar situations)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My current observations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most people tend to find the &lt;strong&gt;Raven&lt;/strong&gt; (or specifically the stars) most valuable and the &lt;strong&gt;Blade&lt;/strong&gt; the least valuable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Blade&lt;/strong&gt; is most valuable for house &lt;strong&gt;Greyjoy&lt;/strong&gt; (at least early on)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I've been put in a similar situation on a couple of occasions. I found that bidding &lt;em&gt;3 power tokens&lt;/em&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;Blade&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;em&gt;2&lt;/em&gt; on the &lt;strong&gt;Raven&lt;/strong&gt; has left me still &lt;em&gt;owning&lt;/em&gt; the &lt;strong&gt;Blade&lt;/strong&gt;, but &lt;em&gt;tied&lt;/em&gt; for &lt;em&gt;4th place&lt;/em&gt; for the &lt;strong&gt;Raven&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:40:28.570" Title="Early game bidding as Greyjoy" Tags="|bidding|game-of-thrones|statistics|game-theory|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30243" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-29T10:12:12.883" Score="1" ViewCount="238" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have an Awaken deck and I want to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Ruins%20of%20Oran-Rief&quot;&gt;Ruins of Oran-Rief&lt;/a&gt;. If I awaken a land that I placed on the battlefield earlier on the same turn, does it count as a legal target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16359" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-29T13:46:41.237" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:03:23.380" Title="Is an Awakened land an OK target for Ruins of Oran-Rief?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30244" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30248" CreationDate="2016-05-29T13:40:03.067" Score="4" ViewCount="1548" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;strong&gt;Space Marine Codex&lt;/strong&gt;, the Thunder hammer has the &lt;em&gt;Concussive&lt;/em&gt; rule, allowing it to force the model it hits to Initiative step 1 during that Assault Phase. However, it also has the &lt;em&gt;Unwieldy&lt;/em&gt; rule, meaning that it hits on Initiative step 1 in the first place. &lt;strong&gt;Is this some sort of hiccup in the rules, or am I forgetting something?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15064" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-31T13:08:14.940" LastActivityDate="2017-03-31T13:08:14.940" Title="Why does a Thunder hammer have Concussive?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30245" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30243" CreationDate="2016-05-29T13:46:16.783" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use Ruins of Oran-Rief on that Awakened land - as long as, like you're describing, you played that land in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability in question is this one, I presume:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}: Put a +1/+1 counter on target colorless creature that entered the battlefield this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After your land's awakened, it's a colorless creature (as well as a land). That colorless creature &lt;em&gt;did&lt;/em&gt; also enter the battlefield this turn. So, yes, at this point it meets all the prerequisites for targeting with this ability: it's a colorless creature that entered the battlefield this turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed in a ruling on Ruins of Oran-Rief's gatherer page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1/22/2016 - The target of the last ability didn’t necessarily have to be a colorless creature as it entered the battlefield, provided it entered the battlefield during that turn. However, it does have to be a colorless creature to be a legal target of the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T11:03:23.380" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T11:03:23.380" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29635" CreationDate="2016-05-29T19:21:28.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mini War Gaming&lt;/strong&gt; published a series of battle reports of Chaos vs. Orks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find them &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miniwargaming.com/show/path-to-glory-orks-chaos&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; (half of them are free to view, the rest need a subscription).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, a user named &lt;strong&gt;Boff89&lt;/strong&gt; got inspired and shared &lt;a href=&quot;https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B58upxPJ3ho2QUZLTzFhSmEzOEk/view?pref=2&amp;amp;pli=1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this PDF&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.miniwargaming.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=117112&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;their forum&lt;/a&gt;. The introduction to the rules is signed by &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Eric PB&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these aren't the same exact rules used in Mini War Gameing's videos (I think), they look like what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I guess you can also try to ask MWG on their forum to share these rules, or make your own version using the videos and the PDF as a starting point...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7963" LastActivityDate="2016-05-29T19:21:28.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24797" CreationDate="2016-05-29T20:03:40.287" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;To the contrary. In the games I've played, Greyjoys win about 1/3 of the time. Though, I admit, it is most probably because their aggressive play style makes them more attractive for the experienced players of the group to enroll (given you didn't select houses at random).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your strengths are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Arguably the strongest cards of all houses&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start with the Valyrian Blade&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start with two ships&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Lanisters don't have good counters&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your capitol is almost untouchable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your weaknesses:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You run out of power tokens faster than others&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have a ★ action&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let me expand:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Arguably the strongest cards of all houses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Victarion (3) is ~ &lt;em&gt;win a navy battle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Balon (2) is ~ &lt;em&gt;win &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; battle&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theon (2) is actually a (3) and 1 sword when defending a castle. That brings a lot of utility to an otherwise offensive deck. You will often use this when an enemy tries to take back theritory or when push comes to shove after you had a terrible early game for one reason or another.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lots of (1) cards just have 1 sword or 1 fortification icon. Dagmar (1) has both! Asha (1) has +2, +1 if you are not being supported in this combat. This is pretty nice, especially when you go deeper into enemy grounds and run out of other cards. If you win by a hair's breadth (which you might actually pull off early game as you have the Valyrian Blade), your opponent goes from crippled to completely irrelevant. If you lose - at least your units don't die, unless you face an overkill.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aeron (0) is simply amazing. To balance his ability, they had to make it cost 2 power tokens. Which is also one of the reasons why lack of power tokens is your greatest weakness (especially early game). The general use case is - this and a future battle have big ramifications depending on which cards both of you chose. Your opponent has to make the guess, while you get to pick the better option after the fact. Also, it's a hard counter to Lanister's Tyrion (1), which is an otherwise outstanding low level card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Admittedly, Euron (4) is probably the weakest (4) card in the game. But a (4) is still a (4). It's better to have your very strong card just not be incredibly strong than to have a lower end card that is honestly a garbage filler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You start with the Valyrian Blade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is one of the things that at the same time enables and forces you to be agressive early on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It enables you by effectively giving you a +1 in all battles and +2 in one battle per turn. Incredibly advantageous when the troop count is low as your armies are often tied.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Forces you because while your cards might look imba while holding the Valyrian Blade, things are not that black and white if you don't. The most likely reason to loose it is during bidding. The further turns progress, the greater the chance bidding has occurred and the greater the discrepancy in power tokens grows (most probably not in your favour).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in the event that very early (1st or 2nd turn) bidding takes place, don't panic. It might be beneficial. Other houses don't find the Valyrian Blade that useful. Everyone wants to bid on the Raven track. In my experience, bidding 3 on the Valyrian Blade and 2 one the Raven leaves you still owning the Blade and winning or tying 4th place on the Raven. Getting a ★ command is just perfect for you as it gives you that much more offensive power and its absence is your other big early game disadvantage. That said, you wont be able to use Aeron (0) and following biddings completely screw you over.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Lanisters don't have good counters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not entirely true. It's more that you have convincing lead the first battles and then they have the strength to punish you after you lost your more valuable cards/they get more power token advantage. They can almost nullify you if you make blunders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tywin (4) can be used in initial defense as well as when pushing back due to the fact that he increases the power token difference. Counters are your (4) and (3) cards (this includes Theon (2) when his effect applies). Balon (2) is a hard counter. Aeron (0) as well, assuming you have the power tokens to pay. That means a total of 3-5 of your cards...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ser Gregor (3) (three swords) is usually used in the follow up push back. If Lanister manages to pull him early on and wins, you either made a huge gambit or a huge blunder. Both cases - you are heavily screwed. Good news - the same counters as with Tywin (4) apply (even more so).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Hound (2) (two fortification) is often used as the &lt;em&gt;buy time and don't suffer loses&lt;/em&gt; in the initial push. Ideally, you would want to trade this off for one of your (1) cards, but unless you are feeling lucky, it's likely he will trade it off for one of your stronger ones.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jaime (2) (one sword) is the average run of the mill (2) card. If you can trade it for a (1), you are in a good shape.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ser Kevan (1) is tricky. His effect doubles the strength of footmen when attacking. Theon (2) is a hard counter. If it is the case that he attacks with just one footmen or for any other reason the Valyrian Blade advantage is sufficient, trading a (1) for this leaves you in a good spot as well.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tyrion (1) is an amazing card. However, in Greyjoy - Lanister conflicts, its power is greatly reduced. Firstly because Aeron (0) a hard counter (Tyrion (1)'s effect is played first), secondly due to the Valyrian Blade, any of your cards is likely to be sufficient. That said, Tyrion (1) is still a main axis around which most of the mindgame/overmindgame/gambling/bluffing/tides of the push - pull conflict are resolved.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cersei (0) is discard garbage. If Lanister somehow manages to use it against you early on, you made a huge blunder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your capitol is almost untouchable&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for someone to be able to attack Pike, he first needs a ship in Ironman's Bay. This is almost impossible as you have great navy due to (1) your cards, (2) the Valyrian Blade, (3) starting with two ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, lets look at Greyjoy's strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In GoT in general, each player has two neighbours. Most of the time he should truce with one and fight with the other. The reason you would choose to get Starks as an ally:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is greater distance between you. Therefore (1) backstabbing is harder, (2) it's harder for you to blitzkrieg.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Starks are the only house that have enough space in a 6p game to do their own thing for the first many turns, thus the incentive for backstabbing is lower.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We already established that your deck kind of counters Lanister's. While Stark's doesn't directly counter yours, it has great defensive cards that let him fight on his own ground without loses almost indefinitely, thus  nullifying your blitzkrieg capabilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, most of the times Starks will agree to be your ally. In that case, you have to agree to give them Moat Calin and territories between the river and The Narrow Sea. From observations - the more experienced the Stark player, the earlier he will backstab you (especially if you get favourable victories with the Lanisters). Newer players tend do  capture neutral zones well into the middle (or even later stages) of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, in the rare event that Starks don't want to place nice, a few things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your cards, combined with the Valyrian Blade are still insanely powerful.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't extend in Northern ground. As already stated, Starks can keep a fight going for a long time. It's unlikely you will get that much value and you will open yourself for other houses attacks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Instead - contain them. The points of interest are Sunset Sea and Moat Calin. Having a ship in Sunset Sea constantly threatens an attack in Bay of Ice. If you get a ship in Bay of Ice, not only do you completely shutdown attacks coming from one side, but you also threaten Winterfell. Moat Calin is pretty important and will likely go back and forth. Baratheon's claims on The Narrow Sea is a huge factor.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Things to do as you are not attacking Lanisters: Claim the neutral ground that you would have offered Starks. Help Lanister with Tyrell. While that might not seem advantageous, it pays off. Getting ships in The Sunset Sea (which Lanister has to allow you for you to fend off the Starks) and in The West Summer Sea provides you a ton of mobility and options. This gives you (1) great opportunities to backstab the Lanisters (2) makes you a huge pain in the **s for the Tyrell (3) even gets you access to Martel for quick grabs when the possibility arises as you can be sure they wont be able to seek vengeance due to sheer distance.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The number one thing to do when allied with Lanisters - plan when to backstab the Lanisters ☺. Pyke, Flint's Finger, Seaguard, Riverrun and Lannisport gives you a total of 5 points. With ship support from Ironman's Bay/Sunset Sea/The Golden Sound, they are almost untakeable. You just have to stay strong as the game progresses, occasionally going back and forth to Moat Calin/Harrenhal when the time is right. If you have a ship in Bay of Ice or The West Summer Sea, the possibilities are endless. Note that this is a general strategy, no matter if you are in alliance with the Lanisters or the Starks.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just to attest to the amazing military power of Greyjoy, let me summarize a game I played just Yesterday:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was in alliance with the Starks. Due to favourable play of cards, I managed to take The Golden Sound and Lanniport very early on. The remaining Lannister forces were pushed to the middle of the map, unable to take back territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Witnessing this massacre, the Starks attacked me immediately at Flint's Finger. In hindsight, I should have seen that coming, but I was not expecting betrayal this early on from an otherwise peaceful house. With my deck running thin due to the previous conflicts with Lannister, I lost sea battles at Sunset Sea and Ironman's Bay, forcing me to retreat my navy to The Golden Sound. His plan was to take Pike with the forces from Flint's Finger and the support of two ships in Ironman's Bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He almost succeeded. There was a vote on the Influence Tracks that turned very positive. I retained the Valyrian Blade and got tied with the Starks for the 4th place for the Raven. Seeing that the Starks will have an insurmountable advantage if I get destroyed, the owner of the Iron Throne agreed to resolve the parity in my favour. With me having a ★ and him having none, I had just enough strength to fend of the attack. He knew this so he called it off, but didn't retreat as he was planning to attempt  it again with reinforcements next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This was ultimately his demise, as I managed to attack his two ships from The Golden Sound with support from Sunset Sea. He lost his ships as he had nowhere to retreat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There was significant land fighting going between me and the Stark. I made a blunder and lost almost half of my land army. However, my deck got replenished and I managed to completely push him back with 3 knights and significant fleet. I've taken the Bay of Ice and could easily take Moat Calin.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I could see how the incredible mobility and support of the ships could allow me to fight both the Stark and the Lanister on two fronts having half the land force of any of them. A true testament to Greyjoy's unmatched military prowess. Wait, what...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During this entire time, the Lanister that was broth to the brink of extinction has been growing stronger by almost completely avoiding fighting. With noone wanting to go to the no man's land to finish him off, he was claiming castle after castle and mustering an ever so big army. Baratheon was almost destroyed by Martell. And Tyrell was part of this conflict, exchanging blows back and forth with Martell. The perfect situation to give breathing space for Lanisters to come back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the Lanister had 6 castles! But I was not worried. His army was spread all over the map and I knew I could easily take all sea castles one after another. And in fact I have just given the attack orders. However, being first, Lanister attacked King's Landing (which at that time was Tyrell's possession). Tyrell made a very obvious blunder as he had a card strong enough to fend off the attack and knew what Lanister was going to play. Yet he lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Had the game not ended prematurely, I would have been in terrific shape. With Starks constantly threatened to lose Winterfell by my ship in Bay of Ice and five castles next to the shore, my only weakness was my low land army count, which wasn't that significant and was going to be turned around with the next mustering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So with blitzkrieg and early backstabing at the start and fighting on two fronts with half the army of any of my opponents, I was still very likely to win at the end. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, a lot of things could have happened differently. Yes, your opponents could have played better. But note that everyone, even the complete tryhards don't play optimally. GoT, unlike chess or bridge, doesn't have a ton of books, research and people devoting their lives. Being so lengthy and having such complex rules, it only follows that even the more seasoned of players have played a dozen of games tops, often times against less experienced friends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you say they are weak, just remember that they are the house able to pay the iron price no matter the odds!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you got here - congrats! Thank you for your time, I hope you found this educational or at least entertaining to read.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastEditorUserId="16358" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T08:20:48.057" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T08:20:48.057" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30244" CreationDate="2016-05-30T00:36:15.953" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a hiccup, p48 of the main rulebook covers this. In short, it means that both combatants have their Initiative reduced to 1, which in turn means that they are striking simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to clarify, Concussive reduces the opponents Initiative to 1 for the &lt;em&gt;next&lt;/em&gt; assault phase. So if a Thunder Hammer + Storm Shield terminator were attacking a model with Initiative 4, combat would go something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Round 1:&#xA;  Initiative Step 4: Opponent Attacks, no wounds&#xA;  Initiative Step 1: Terminator Attacks and wounds (Initiative 1 due to Unwieldy)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Round 2: Initiative Step 1: Opponent (Initiative 1 due to Concussive) and Terminator (Initiative 1 due to Unwieldy) attack simultaneously (which means that if the opponent rolled first and killed the terminator, the terminator would still have the opportunity to roll and attack before being removed).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: From the BRB, Concussive:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...a model that suffers one or more wounds...is reduced to Initiative 1 until the end of the following Assault Phase...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastEditorDisplayName="user16341" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T01:27:14.293" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T01:27:14.293" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:21:16.187" Score="2" ViewCount="714" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, someone deals 10 damage to one of my creature, and I have enough mana to cast two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbond&quot;&gt;Arcbond&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose target creature. Whenever that creature is dealt damage this turn, it deals that much damage to each other creature and each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast both Arcbond on the creature that is taking damage, will that inflict double the damage to all players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16362" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T07:51:37.827" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T07:51:37.827" Title="Do multiple instances of Arcbond stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30249" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:38:55.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In that particular instance yes it would deal 20 damage.  But if say you had 2 gruul war chants on the battlefield all your attacking creatures would have menace and +2/+0 but the menace does not stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16363" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T02:38:55.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30249" CreationDate="2016-05-30T02:39:06.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The effect of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Arcbond&quot;&gt;Arcbond&lt;/a&gt; stacks. If you cast Arcbond on the same creature twice, it will deal twice the amount of damage that it takes to each other creature and each player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The damage for each Arcbond will be dealt separately. If you were trying to force a draw by dealing 20 damage to both players, but you accidentally kill yourself after the first 10, that is too bad for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of how multiple Arcbond triggers behave:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Arcbond twice on a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature takes 10 damage.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both Arcbonds trigger.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first Arcbond trigger resolves. The creature deals 10 damage to stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second Arcbond trigger resolves. The creature deals another 10 damage to stuff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Make sure you cast Arcbond &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the creature takes damage (not after, and not at the same time). Here are a few more examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent: &amp;quot;Attack with my 10/10.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You: &amp;quot;Block with my dude.&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Opponent:&amp;quot;Okay. Damage?&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You: &amp;quot;Before damage, I'll cast Arcbond twice on my dude.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent: I'll &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; your dude.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;You: &amp;quot;In response, I'll cast Arcbond twice on my dude.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T07:50:52.540" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T07:50:52.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T03:26:45.393" Score="0" ViewCount="346" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suppression%20Bonds&quot;&gt;Suppression Bonds&lt;/a&gt; on a Suppression Bonds to use a creature that was Suppression Bonded and cancel it out?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16364" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T08:07:44.557" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T08:07:44.557" Title="Can a Suppression Bonds cancel out another Suppression Bonds?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30253" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30252" CreationDate="2016-05-30T03:48:47.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; enchant one copy of Suppression Bonds with another, but it won't do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text of Suppression Bonds states &quot;Enchant nonland permanent. Enchanted permanent can't attack or block, and its activated abilities can't be activated.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Suppression Bonds is a nonland permanent, meaning it's a legal target for another Suppression Bonds. However, it prevents its target from three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Attacking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blocking&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Using activated abilities, which are abilities where you pay a cost to cause an effect, and are written in the form &quot;Cost: Effect&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Suppression Bonds isn't a creature, it won't be attacking or blocking (unless there's another effect that changes that), so nothing will happen on that front. And its ability is not an activated ability, but a continuous effect, so it is not affected by Suppression Bonds being cast on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T03:48:47.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30254" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30255" CreationDate="2016-05-30T07:18:38.340" Score="1" ViewCount="1298" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe the reference guide may imply that a card of a certain type, when not found, is simply not obtained. In this case, if it is an Illness Condition, then the investigator simply doesn't gain the condition, I believe, and if it is a case where &quot;an investigator may gain an Illness to etc&quot; then he doesn't have that option to do that etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, what about the Epidemic Prelude card in Under The Pyramids which reads&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Then each investigator gains 1 &lt;strong&gt;ILLNESS&lt;/strong&gt; Condition and 1 Clue. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are only 4 Illness cards, so if I have 8 investigators, do only 4 get the Illness, and do only those 4 likewise get Clues for the Prelude because the text implies the Illness and Clue must go hand in hand (I'm not even sure this wording necessarily implies that, although one could imagine wording it as &quot;then each gains an Illness; then each gains a clue&quot; would clarify they don't go hand in hand)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T05:14:50.180" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T09:34:51.010" Title="If condition cards run out, do investigators not gain the condition?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-under-the-pyramids|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30254" CreationDate="2016-05-30T07:45:28.700" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If condition cards run out, investigators do not gain the condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An investigator can gain a card or token only if it is available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/EH01%20Reference%20Guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Component Limitations&quot; (page 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Epidemic Prelude's &quot;&lt;em&gt;gains 1 &lt;strong&gt;Illness&lt;/strong&gt; Condition and 1 Clue&lt;/em&gt;&quot; is an identical situation as &quot;&lt;em&gt;recover 1 Health and 1 Sanity&lt;/em&gt;&quot; or &quot;&lt;em&gt;discard 1 Item and 1 Trinket&lt;/em&gt;&quot;.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;These loses/gains aren't dependent on each other, those are just lists.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you can't do everything from the list you do as much as you can.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not recovering health doesn't prevent you from recovering sanity.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not losing a Trinket doesn't prevent you from losing the item.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Not gaining Illness doesn't prevent you from gaining a clue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T09:34:51.010" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T09:34:51.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30256" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30257" CreationDate="2016-05-30T08:27:49.950" Score="1" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our recent &lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; play session we've tried playing &lt;em&gt;Babel&lt;/em&gt; extension, which triggered a question/thoughts about babel tower add-on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically tower tile nr. 2 and 15 which states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;These two tiles allow players to ignore the resource cost when constructing military buildings or for a Wonder stage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, while building military buildings virtually for free seems to be very powerful, especially if you are lagging behind in a 3rd age and want to catch up with at least one neighbour, but it felt okay-ish. &#xA;However, building Wonder stages for free felt like completely messing up game mechanics - some wonders require a lot more of resources to build than others, with a cost and reward system being quite balanced, but with this card open, everyone would just built their wonders within few turns. It felt as if someone switch on god mode. Besides, it wasn't a fair game from that point on, considering how different rewards for Wonders are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is, whether we've misread/misinterpreted the rules, or does this card really effectively permits building Wonders completely for free for every player, apart from the money, that aren't required for the most of wonder stages?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. And while we are here, tile nr. 20 - &quot; Raw materials cards (brown cards) which produce a unique resource (Lumber Yard, Stone Pit, Clay Pool and Ore Vein) produce an infinite number of resources.&quot; felt overpowered as well, just maybe by a lesser degree than the previous ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16366" LastEditorUserId="3532" LastEditDate="2016-05-30T12:44:43.520" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T12:44:43.520" Title="Babel tower tile #15 (ignore resource cost for Wonder) overpowered?" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-babel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30256" CreationDate="2016-05-30T09:21:26.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have played correctly; tile #15 indeed lets you construct wonder stages without paying the resource cost. It's very true that some Wonders will benefit much more: Gizah B, with its massive 4 stages, will be able to take 20 points for &quot;free&quot; (using 4 actions), even if other players conspire to lock this player out of resources, which is very possible in 3-player or 7-player games. On the other hand, Rhodes B would benefit little, with only 2 stages to construct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, your feelings are justified; yes each Babel tile tilts the game to one way or another. They are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; meant to be &quot;fair for all&quot;. However, in general you may find &lt;strong&gt;both tiles that tilt the game to either way&lt;/strong&gt;; take for example the opposite tile, tile #16: every player will have to pay a tax for each wonder stage; Gizah B would effectively have to pay 10 coins (+ any resources, if applicable) to construct all wonder stages. In another example, tile #22 double the penalty for losing a Military battle, while tile #19 diminishes the points gained by the victors, making military less or more important, respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if you feel that one tile turns &quot;god mode&quot; on for a specific player, there's always a solution: conspire with other players to &lt;strong&gt;cover the tile&lt;/strong&gt;. If you do it correctly, it won't stay there for more than a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T09:21:26.840" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30258" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T10:02:46.900" Score="0" ViewCount="388" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Mansions of Madness, the rules say that &quot;an investigator must make an evade test before moving or performing non-attack actions.&quot;&#xA;What if the investigator uses an equipment card which does not have the word &quot;Action&quot; on it. Does that require an evade test ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16367" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T11:17:41.533" Title="mansions of madness using a non-action equipment requires evade?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30258" CreationDate="2016-05-30T11:17:41.533" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have already quoted all the relevant rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this equipment require you move?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Does this equipment require you to take a non-attack action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, make an evade test first.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If no, You don't make the evade test.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T11:17:41.533" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30260" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="35780" CreationDate="2016-05-30T17:43:42.753" Score="2" ViewCount="1860" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine a Long Neck + Foraging + Cooperative combo.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It gains 2 foods from the food bank and feed the species at its right.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If the species at the right has foraging + cooperative, how many does it gain?&#xA;And how many gains the third species?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like the first would gain 2, the next 2 and the next 1, but I am not sure. Someone said the first should gain 2 and the next 4 and the third should have 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T16:08:13.143" LastActivityDate="2017-07-06T20:10:39.183" Title="How would cooperative and foraging chain work?" Tags="|evolution|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30261" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-05-30T22:27:36.783" Score="0" ViewCount="1839" Body="&lt;p&gt;First example: When a creature is going to attack me alone and I use Vapor Snag to return it to the other player's hand, is the combat damage prevented?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second example: If three 1/1 Soldier creatures are going to attack me while Veteran Swordsmith (which gives other Soldier Creatures +1/+0) is on the board and I use Doom Blade to kill the Veteran Swordsmith, do I take 3 damage or 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third example: I control a creature, but couldn't use it to block a sliver my opponent controls because he just put a Shifting Sliver into play. If I use Path to Exile to exile his Shifting Sliver during the blockers declaration phase, does this make me able to block the other sliver?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, would this kind of play work in response to triggered/activated abilities? (for example, trying to prevent a triggered/activated ability from resolving by removing the permanent from the battlefield in response to the opponent trying to trigger/activate it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16370" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T22:55:51.817" Title="Does removing a creature from the battlefield during the blockers declaration phase affect the damage the player will take?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-06-01T09:35:36.587" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30262" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30261" CreationDate="2016-05-30T22:55:51.817" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a breakdown of the five stages in the relevant part of the turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare attackers step&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(1) attackers are declared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(2) players get priority (to cast instants and activate abilities)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare blockers step&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(3) blockers are declared&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(4) players get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat damage step&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(5) damage is assigned and dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the most part, you only check what something does and if it's legal right when it happens. So damage (dealt in stage 5) is only dealt by creatures that are still in combat at stage 5, and is based on their power at the moment stage 5 happens. Blocking (done in stage 3) is legal if it is legal at the moment stage 3 happens. So to answer your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) yes, since the creature is not still in combat at stage 5. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) 3, since their power is 1 each by the time stage 5 happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) As long as you use Path to Exile in stage 2 (or earlier in the turn), blocking the sliver will be legal since nothing will be preventing that when stage 3 happens. If you cast it during the declare blockers step (i.e. during stage 4) then it will be irrelevant because all blockers are declared in stage 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-05-30T22:55:51.817" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30263" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29456" CreationDate="2016-05-31T01:19:02.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Campaign Badges are often conflict, and chapter, specific, and finding any definitive one is proving quite difficult.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what I can remember of playing the actual 3rd War for Armageddon campaign (showing my age now!), there wasn't an overall Campaign Badge for Imperial Forces, but there were a number of area/region specific badges that were used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, they are reasonably simple geometric design (i.e. quartered diamonds, triangles etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I did find this image showing a Salamanders Librarian with an Armageddon Campaign marking, but whether it's 2nd or 3rd War I don't know, and I know that there's been a bit of discussion about it on Warseer/Dakka.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YETYc.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YETYc.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I will see if I can dig up some more though&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T01:19:02.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12174" CreationDate="2016-05-31T03:42:54.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for a solution that is quick and does not require coding skills, &lt;a href=&quot;http://paperize.io/beta&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Paperize&lt;/a&gt; is a great choice, although it is limited to a set of pre-designed templates.  It's currently in beta, but they usually send out new invites quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want more control &lt;a href=&quot;http://squib.rocks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Squib&lt;/a&gt; is a ruby based package specifically tailored for designing cards, and has some very useful built-in functions, including support for stitching cards into print-and-play sheets, and embedding graphics in the flow of text.  It's fairly well documented, and the documentation is (not-entirely-successfully) aimed at novice programmers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16372" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T03:42:54.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30241" CreationDate="2016-05-31T08:34:24.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It makes sense that you would put the discard pile back into the deck and re-shuffle - this is what we have always done in our games. This obviously means that you can have the reappearance of cards that have already been drawn once before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It wouldn't make sense to just shuffle the remaining cards - what would be the difference between that and not shuffling the remaining cards? They're still unknown and already/still in a random order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1209" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T08:34:24.977" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30267" CreationDate="2016-05-31T10:18:53.717" Score="8" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Garrison&quot;&gt;Darksteel Garrison&lt;/a&gt; is like an equipment but for land - it can fortify a land, giving it an extra ability. The &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Westvale%20Abbey&quot;&gt;Westvale Abbey&lt;/a&gt; is a land but once it transforms, it's no longer a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens when a land such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Westvale%20Abbey&quot;&gt;Westvale Abbey&lt;/a&gt; equipped with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darksteel%20Garrison&quot;&gt;Darksteel Garrison&lt;/a&gt; transforms?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16374" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T14:10:28.533" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T14:10:28.533" Title="What happens when a fortified land stops being a land?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30266" CreationDate="2016-05-31T11:46:46.997" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the fortified land stops being a land, the fortification unattaches.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;From Magic Comprehensive Rules (emphases mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;301.5c&lt;/strong&gt; An Equipment that’s also a creature can’t equip a creature. An Equipment that loses the subtype “Equipment” can’t equip a creature. An Equipment can’t equip itself. &lt;strong&gt;An Equipment that equips an illegal or nonexistent permanent becomes unattached from that permanent&lt;/strong&gt; but remains on the battlefield. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.) An Equipment can’t equip more than one creature. If a spell or ability would cause an Equipment to equip more than one creature, the Equipment’s controller chooses which creature it equips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;301.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Some artifacts have the subtype “Fortification.” A Fortification can be attached to a land. It can’t legally be attached to an object that isn’t a land. Fortification’s analog to the equip keyword ability is the fortify keyword ability. &lt;strong&gt;Rules 301.5a–e apply to Fortifications in relation to lands just as they apply to Equipment in relation to creatures&lt;/strong&gt;, with one clarification relating to rule 301.5c: a Fortification that’s also a creature (not a land) can’t fortify a land. (See rule 702.66, “Fortify.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T11:46:46.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30270" CreationDate="2016-05-31T16:24:33.053" Score="7" ViewCount="931" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play FNMs at a relatively small store. There isn't a judge that runs the FNMs or any that consistently play there (the crowd is casual for the most part). I know the rules fairly well and the people that play at the store trust me enough to ask rules questions. I want to take the rules advisor test so that there's at least a semi-official source for answers to rules questions at these FNMs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What steps are there to taking the test and becoming a rules advisor (ie: do you need to talk to a judge as if you were trying to become a L1)? What types of rulings are rules advisors allowed to make?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T16:35:36.013" Title="What are the steps to becoming a rules advisor and what kind of rulings can be made by one?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30260" CreationDate="2016-05-31T16:29:32.977" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As long as no species would exceed its Population, the three species would get 2, 4, and 4 Plant Food.&lt;/strong&gt; However, if at any time a food could not be taken as a result of Population limits, the numbers would be lower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To work this out, let's say you have species {A}, {B} and {C}. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{A} has the traits Long Neck, Foraging, and Cooperative. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{B} has Foraging and Cooperative. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{C} has neither. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After each trait triggers, I'll note the amount of cumulative food like this: &lt;em&gt;({A}:0; {B}:0; {C}:0).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the Food Cards are revealed, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{A} is going to take 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of Long Neck &lt;em&gt;({A}:1; {B}:0; {C}:0).&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{B} takes 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of {A}'s Cooperation &lt;em&gt;({A}:1; {B}:1; {C}:0).&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{C} takes 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of {B}'s Cooperation &lt;em&gt;({A}:1; {B}:1; {C}:1).&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{B} takes another 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of its Foraging trait &lt;em&gt;({A}:1; {B}:2; {C}:1).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{C} takes another 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of {B}'s Cooperation &lt;em&gt;({A}:1; {B}:2; {C}:2).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So far, the only thing {A} has used is the Long Neck trait. Continuing on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;6&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{A} takes an additional 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of Foraging, which is triggered from the Long Neck &lt;em&gt;({A}:2; {B}:2; {C}:2).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{B} takes 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of {A}'s Cooperation &lt;em&gt;({A}:2; {B}:3; {C}:2).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{C} takes 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of {B}'s Cooperation &lt;em&gt;({A}:2; {B}:3; {C}:3).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{B} takes another 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of its Foraging trait &lt;em&gt;({A}:2; {B}:4; {C}:3).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;{C} takes another 1 Plant Food from the Food Bank because of {B}'s Cooperation &lt;em&gt;({A}:2; {B}:4; {C}:4).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final tally: &lt;strong&gt;{A} gets 2 Plant Food, {B} gets 4 Plant Food, and {C} gets 4 Plant Food.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This assumes that Population limits are not met. If, for example, {A} met it's limit after just the Long Neck trait, steps 6-10 would be skipped because {A} didn't take a second Plant Food from its Foraging trait.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules can be found &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/102163/evolution-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-05-31T17:14:10.583" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T17:14:10.583" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30270" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30268" CreationDate="2016-05-31T16:35:36.013" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Rules Advisor program has recently been discontinued. Becoming a level 1 judge is the entry level for officially judging.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The changes in a nutshell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Rules Advisor exam is available until the end of April. Passing the exam no longer grants or renews the Rules Advisor membership, and all existing memberships will expire normally. Once the exam is retired, all content in that exam pool will be either reassigned to another exam or retired from use.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The online L1 Practice exam is now available to all users. People interested in becoming a judge now have direct access to this resource, and this exam shows up on your Judge Center profile when you pass it. (Keep in mind that passing the L1 Practice exam does not grant any special benefit or membership.) &lt;strong&gt;If a particular store truly wants to require something to judge FNM, passing the L1 Practice exam is a far more reasonable requirement and more supportive of organized play in the long term since it helps lead towards Level 1 certification.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The online L1 Practice exam now has a 28-day cooldown period. This should make for a training resource that is more readily available to all users, balancing the limited content in the pool with the need to make sure people can study and practice towards earning the Level 1 certification. Level 2 and Level 3 judges can still create the online L1 Practice exam for others, and still have the ability to generate written L1 Practice exams to administer in person. Use the resource as necessary to help people to pass and join the judge community.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/blog/2016/04/15/the-rules-advisor-exam-is-being-discontinued/&quot;&gt;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/blog/2016/04/15/the-rules-advisor-exam-is-being-discontinued/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-05-31T16:35:36.013" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30273" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-01T02:51:23.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;A time to play board or convention games, such as a tournament, convention, of other designated game day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T09:14:16.250" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T09:14:16.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30274" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-01T02:51:23.600" Score="0" Body="A time to play board or convention games, such as a tournament, convention, of other designated game day." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T09:14:13.077" LastActivityDate="2016-06-01T09:14:13.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30275" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-01T16:21:20.760" Score="5" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pillaging Skeletons could pick everything up, take over 4 territories, get 2 extra monsters, still get 8 gold because of pillaging, have 4 large stacks of monsters (large investment to only kill 1 skeleton), and the 8 gold/turn was still good because the player held EVERYONE else down to less than that by getting rid of 4 enemy tokens every turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dragon Elves were the only combo we found to keep the Pillaging Skeletons from running away with the game, killing 2 skeletons a turn easy (sometimes 3 with a good roll), and never losing any. Are there any other counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra Kudos for staying away from &quot;Everyone cooperatively attack the skeletons!&quot;, as my group doesn't like to just gang up on someone :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-06-01T23:16:39.923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T13:20:44.213" Title="How do you counter pillaging skeletons?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30277" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="43256" CreationDate="2016-06-01T19:42:41.767" Score="9" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm relatively new to backgammon, and something I often struggle with is deciding when to leave the 20 point once I've made it. Furthermore, I also sometimes struggle with whether or not to leave the 13 point before or after the 20 point. Are there any rules of thumb which can help guide my decision when it isn't immediately obvious?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJlhd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lJlhd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12817" LastEditorUserId="12817" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T15:24:21.630" LastActivityDate="2018-09-04T12:42:22.690" Title="When to leave the 20 point?" Tags="|backgammon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30278" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T00:19:52.087" Score="3" ViewCount="1172" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the part of the UK where I live, a common set of conventions played at clubs and EBU tournaments is Acol based with 5 card majors, weak NT, weak jump overcalls/truscott (and often also Benji/reverse Benji: 2C 23+/9t, 2D 20-22/8t, 2H/S weak). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Stayman, UNT/Michaels, and transfers are usual as well, but less relevant and more &quot;stand alone&quot;, so I'm ignoring them here, and looking at the core of the bidding system.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd like to be more clear how these work together and especially how to bid and interpret the &quot;edge cases&quot;, but most books on 5 card major bidding seem to be based on other bidding systems so there's not really any clear guidance I can learn from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which would be the closest widely used 5 card major system to this, and what would the main adaptations be from it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16275" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-08T22:15:40.670" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T22:15:40.670" Title="5 card major/weak NT bidding systems" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30279" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-02T01:53:10.007" Score="8" ViewCount="7157" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife insists that if you have a Wild Card in your hand you cannot play the Wild Draw 4 Card because the first Wild Card constitutes having the same color card as the one on the Discard pile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I say it does not as a Wild Card can be any color you choose when you play it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Who is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16388" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-04-03T14:10:00.667" LastActivityDate="2020-04-03T14:10:00.667" Title="In Uno, can you play a Wild Draw 4 Card when you have another Wild Card in your hand?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30279" CreationDate="2016-06-02T02:07:11.380" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/UNO%20Basic%20IS.pdf&quot;&gt;rules sheet from Mattel&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may only play this card when you do NOT have another card in your hand that matches the COLOR on the DISCARD pile (but it is acceptable to play this card if you have matching number or Action Cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since Wild cards are classified as Action cards, you are legally allowed to play a Wild Draw Four when you have a Wild in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T02:07:11.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30281" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30278" CreationDate="2016-06-02T07:37:59.090" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;WJO and Truscott are generally separable from your system. They are part of your defense and are more like a &quot;component&quot; rather than a part of your system methodology.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kaplan-Sheinwold (KS) adopts a 5-card Major approach with a weak No-trump opening, ranging from 12-14 HCP. However, its only strong opening is 2C, with 2D, 2H and 2S all being standard weak two bids. However, reverse Benji can be easily incorporated into KS without greatly changing the one-level openings and their continuations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12088" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T07:37:59.090" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30282" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30294" CreationDate="2016-06-02T11:34:16.760" Score="16" ViewCount="21473" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am about to start a Pandemic Legacy campaign. I have managed to avoid spoilers so far, but I have read enough to know that the game is essentially designed to be played through once - changes are made during the campaign that are not easy to reverse (e.g. stickers added, components destroyed). &lt;strong&gt;How practical would it be to modify the process so that the entire campaign could be replayed?&lt;/strong&gt; I realise that the experience a second time around would be less exciting since you would know what was coming, but I can still see potential value in trying out different decision paths, trying a different number of players, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than adding stickers, could one just keep a written record of the relevant information? Or could the stickers be peeled off afterwards?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Rather than destroying components, could one just put them to one side?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other changes required to the game components that would be irreversible?&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No spoilers please!&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T22:54:35.897" LastActivityDate="2018-07-10T14:55:34.130" Title="Would it be possible to play through Pandemic Legacy more than once?" Tags="|pandemic-legacy-season-1|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30283" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29879" CreationDate="2016-06-02T12:02:31.890" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using the French system, I should avoid a takeout double which would promise four spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As said in answers, 3NT is a gamble (may be risky) !&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I checked with my partners and it seems that we agree on a cuebid at 4H which, for us, will promise a very strong hand with at least a 4/5 distribution of cards in clubs and diamonds (and for sure, short in hearts and less than four cards in spades).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the partner is unable to bid 5C or 5D, then 4NT would be his bid and the contract.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6293" LastEditorUserId="6293" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T12:55:25.867" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T12:55:25.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30284" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30282" CreationDate="2016-06-02T13:07:43.323" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Anything is possible.  The bookkeeping involved would be very intensive.  From about May on, pretty much every action and card play would need to be double-checked against your written record of modifiers. You'd start to remember some of it, but relying on memory would mean you'd likely make mistakes throughout the game (heck, I sometimes make mistakes even with the stickers staring me in the face).  As mentioned in the comments, it ultimately comes down to how much time, mental energy, and loss of the true experience you're willing to spend in order to save yourself some money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T13:24:32.310" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T13:24:32.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30275" CreationDate="2016-06-02T13:20:44.213" Score="8" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Bunker up.  The scenario you describe relies on people leaving a path of territories with single defenders.  Barring the unlikely event where they are revealed and claimed in the same round, you likely know they're coming, so don't leave yourself that open.  Use mountains, leave extra defenders, etc.  Wall them in, so that they are surrounded by highly defended regions.  If they can only take 3 regions, they only get one extra guy and only 6 points, which is far more manageable.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attack their declined race.  A solid score generally relies on both races, so if you take out their declined race, they will be forced to rely on just the skeletons or decline them.  If they are the player's first race, they can still fall behind someone with two solid races.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attack them.  Yes it is a high cost to destroy one skeleton, but destroying one might be all it takes to slow down their growth pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Highlighting specific race/power combos is kind of pointless, since the chance of them being available is exceedingly small.  There are plenty of defensive races that could withstand them or aggressive races that could knock them out early.  Pretty much the only thing you don't want to do is decide that it is too expensive to attack them and let them continue to grow turn after turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T13:20:44.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30286" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30288" CreationDate="2016-06-02T14:06:25.707" Score="5" ViewCount="3350" Body="&lt;p&gt;This question is not related to &quot;Ticket to Ride&quot;, but while playing Ticket to Ride, the following happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There were 5 us around the table, and to make it easier to reach for all players, we split up the draw deck into 2 decks, one on each side of the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that okay? In theory, drawing a card from the deck is meant to be &quot;random&quot;, so drawing from anywhere in the deck is still &quot;random&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, once the cards have been physically shuffled, they are what they are, then it becomes more of a &quot;fate&quot; in regards to drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I wanted to get a response from others: &lt;strong&gt;Is it okay to draw from the middle of the deck?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5391" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T08:28:03.057" Title="Is it okay to draw from the middle of the deck?" Tags="|playing-cards|shuffling|random|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-06-03T20:23:25.187" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-06-02T14:42:20.617" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the Ticket to Ride official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Draw Train Car Cards&lt;/strong&gt; – The player may draw 2 Train Car cards. He may take any one of the face-up cards or he may draw the &lt;strong&gt;top card from&#xA;  the deck&lt;/strong&gt; (this is a blind draw). If he draws a face up card, he&#xA;  immediately turns a replacement card face-up from the deck. He then&#xA;  draws his second card, either from the face up cards or &lt;strong&gt;from the top&#xA;  of the deck&lt;/strong&gt;. (See Train Car Cards for special rules for Locomotive&#xA;  cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for this specific game, no, it's not allowed to draw from the middle of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The chance of drawing a specific card is the same no matter what card you draw so it dosen't matter. But if it dosen't matter, why go through the trouble of drawing the middle card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as the game dosen't interact with the deck (like in MTG where you can peak at the cards, or order them) there's nothing wrong with creating your own house rules and draw whatever card you'd like.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:42:20.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-06-02T14:45:33.823" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Mathematically the probabilities are unaffected. Let's consider a simplified example with just 4 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say we draw one card from the 4 aces from a standard deck of playing cards. The probability of drawing the Ace of Spades is 1/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now let's split the deck evenly and pick the first card from the first split to compare the probability of drawing the Ace of Spades. Using the Law of Total Probability, there is half a chance the Ace of Spades is in the first split of 2 cards. There is also half a chance that in the first split, the first card is the Ace of Spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiplying these out gives the probability of drawing the Ace of Spades as being (1/2)*(1/2) = 1/4, just as in the case of drawing normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T14:45:33.823" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30289" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30282" CreationDate="2016-06-02T19:33:07.547" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My group just finished last weekend. We did not destroy anything during the course of the game. We used stickers which may be difficult to remove and re-apply. It would be especially hard to put the stickers that came off of &quot;door #1&quot; back onto door #1 without having kept track of the fact that it came from said door originally. We wrote on the character cards; I suppose you could white that out. There are scratch-off cards with secret information, but given that you'll already know said information, that shouldn't be a problem. So overall, almost everything could be reset with enough effort. The stickers might not stick very well the second time around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We plan on removing all the stickers and using it as a regular version of Pandemic. Then we don't need to keep the stickers in good condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12764" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T19:33:07.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30291" CreationDate="2016-06-02T19:37:04.123" Score="1" ViewCount="281" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the older versions of the Magic: The Gathering card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lord%20of%20Atlantis&quot;&gt;Lord of Atlantis&lt;/a&gt; the card type was listed as &amp;quot;Summon Lord&amp;quot; but on the newer versions it is listed as &amp;quot;Merfolk Lord&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I play the old version of the card does it use the new card type or the old card type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16394" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-06-02T22:58:24.073" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T19:29:55.660" Title="Do older versions of cards use the card types printed on the newest version?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-02T20:18:57.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30290" CreationDate="2016-06-02T19:41:41.277" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;He is a Merfolk regardless of what version you use. (Lord is an obsolete creature type.) To find the official text and characteristics of a card, you should use &lt;a href=&quot;http://Gatherer.Wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.3f&lt;/strong&gt; Many cards were printed with subtypes that are now obsolete. Many cards have retroactively received subtypes. Use the Oracle card reference to determine what a card’s subtypes are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;108.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Use the Oracle™ card reference when determining a card’s wording. A card’s Oracle text can be found using the Gatherer card database at Gatherer.Wizards.com.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T19:29:55.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30292" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-06-02T21:36:29.843" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as you draw the whole deck before shuffling discards, it doesn't matter. Simply put, all cards in a well shuffled deck are equal. (Or have an equal probability of being this or that.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Splitting the deck, drawing in the wrong order, or intentionally drawing from the middle of the deck, or even shuffling the deck between draws does not matter, &lt;em&gt;if there's no way to gain knowledge of the cards&lt;/em&gt;, either from how the deck is used in the game, or by (accidental) peeking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in games where (e.g.) used or discarded cards are put back to the bottom of the deck without a reshuffle, it obviously matters. (The mechanic is usually something like draw two, keep one, put the other to the bottom of the deck.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shuffling the discards in to the deck before all cards are drawn once, will also change the odds slightly. Also, in some games, players may actually want to draw cards from the original deck (before drawing cards that have been discarded and reshuffled once), so when the end of the deck is near, even minor rules about the order of almost simultaneous draws will matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Incidentally, since Ticket to Ride was mentioned: &lt;em&gt;well shuffled&lt;/em&gt; is also a key word, since a badly shuffled deck might very well have bunched remains of previous sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, any of that doesn't stop people from being superstitious. :) I'll admit to sometimes drawing from the middle of a shuffled deck in cases where my previous draws (from the top) have been utter garbage. I know it doesn't change the odds (and if it did, it would be cheating), but only makes me feel better by being able to act out on my misfortune. ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16396" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T21:36:29.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-06-02T21:39:40.550" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's true that there's no statistical difference between a card taken from the top of a perfectly shuffled deck and a card taken from the middle of the deck. (Assuming that no one has already looked at the top cards.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The caveat is &lt;strong&gt;perfectly shuffled&lt;/strong&gt;. Humans, in general, are rather bad at shuffling cards. For a standard 52 card deck, it takes about &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.math.wustl.edu/~feres/Math450shuffling.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;7 riffle shuffles&lt;/a&gt; to randomize the deck well. Very few people will shuffle that many times. This means that there is normally some residual order in the deck, even after shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People have been know to take advantage of that. For example &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.dartmouth.edu/~chance/course/topics/winning_number.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;in bridge&lt;/a&gt;, top players can (unconsciously) incorporate the non-randomness of typical shuffling patterns into their playing decisions. I remember hearing that when automatic shufflers were first introduced for bridge tournaments, there were objections that the machines weren't shuffling &quot;properly&quot;, as the randomness of the decks were greater than the previous human shuffles, throwing of established strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So that is something to consider. If you don't have a truly random shuffle in the deck, there may be some residual order in the cards. If you then split the deck into multiple draw piles, this would allow a particularly perceptive individual to gain an advantage by strategically drawing from whichever deck is &quot;hot&quot; at the moment. You can, of course, mitigate this by preventing people from picking which pile they draw from (e.g. Forcing everyone to draw from the closest deck), or simply shuffling better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16398" LastActivityDate="2016-06-02T21:39:40.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30294" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30282" CreationDate="2016-06-03T00:50:39.953" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is possible. Someone on BoardGameGeek has designed a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/125892/pandemic-legacy-reset-kit&quot;&gt;Reset Kit&lt;/a&gt;, which gives full instructions for keeping various components separate, rules reminder cards so you don't have to sticker the rule book, and other stickers to go over the ones on the board/cards to set them up afresh.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're really careful, you can remove the stickers from the board and have something that is 99% vanilla Pandemic, which is also an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, for many people the permanence of the game is part of the experience. You don't just get the excitement of winning, you get the visceral feeling of finality when you tear up cards and mark the board. I understand that that experience is not for everyone, but there is a lot to recommend it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T00:50:39.953" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30295" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30286" CreationDate="2016-06-03T08:28:03.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, there are games where rearranging/peeking at the top cards is an inherent mechanic, so obviously, don't split and draw in those games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Furthermore, splitting the deck before drawing might be perceived as a hint that card backs are marked, and that you actually know which card is coming, and you don't want it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For those reasons, and the superstition of some players, I'd go against splitting decks unless everyone at the table agrees beforehand, and the game mechanics allow it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16402" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T08:28:03.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30296" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30302" CreationDate="2016-06-03T08:36:37.360" Score="3" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any benefit to installing the same card twice? Particularly a card like &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01044&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magnum Opus&lt;/a&gt;? (I understand the point for most hardware and the like, but what about ice breakers and magnum opus)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16404" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-09T23:01:15.600" LastActivityDate="2018-01-09T23:01:15.600" Title="What happens if the runner choses to play [Magnum Opus] twice?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30297" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30282" CreationDate="2016-06-03T08:49:10.313" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Technically, it is very possible to replay the game, but that involves so much bookkeeping that it would hugely impact the fun and general flow of your game sessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For every game component that you reveal, you'll have to take note of where and when it appeared. You probably can't use the stickers as intended: they will be hard to remove and/or won't stick the second time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do it, but be aware that you might dilute the fun in the process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16402" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T08:49:10.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30299" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30300" CreationDate="2016-06-03T12:04:56.437" Score="3" ViewCount="680" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398502&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Willbreaker&lt;/a&gt; (mine) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=409991&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Silverfur Partisan&lt;/a&gt; (opponents) in play if I cast an instant on their Silverfur Partisan who gets the wolf? Do I get to choose the order they go on the stack to decide this or is it another process?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvsDf.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvsDf.png&quot; alt=&quot;Willbreaker&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YD7BR.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/YD7BR.png&quot; alt=&quot;Silverfur Partisan&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording of the rules confused me as there seemed to be some additional rules around things going on the stack if there are multiple players effected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2387" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T07:31:05.733" Title="Willbreaker vs. Silverfur Partisan who gets a wolf?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30299" CreationDate="2016-06-03T12:14:49.837" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your opponent will get the wolf token.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The active player's trigger will go on the stack first, but the order of triggers on the stack does not matter in this case. Silverfur Partisan's ability refers to &amp;quot;you&amp;quot;, which is the Partisan's controller at the time when the ability triggers, i.e. your opponent. Since your opponent controlled the Partisan when its ability triggered, he is also the controller of that ability on the stack. Even if your opponent loses control of the partisan before the Partisan's ability resolves, he will not lose control of that ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;109.5. The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. &lt;strong&gt;For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered,&lt;/strong&gt; unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-30T07:31:05.733" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30296" CreationDate="2016-06-03T13:33:17.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer provided by @user30903 in the comments is correct, and I believe your question effectively clarifies what you mean by &quot;playing&quot; as you also reference icebreakers. There is no benefit in installing Magnum Opus twice at the same time: the effects do not stack, and in fact it is detrimental due to the memory usage. The same is true of each individual icebreaker - they do not stack so there is no additional benefit to having two identical ones in play at once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a benefit to having multiple copies in your deck, to raise the chances of drawing it at a useful time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly there may be benefits to installing it twice during the course of a game, for example if the first copy if destroyed somehow, but not at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only (niche) case where I can think it might be useful to install M.Opus or an icebreaker when you already have it in play would be if you were over the hand limit, desperate not to discard any hand cards, and worried that your original copy was going to be destroyed. Then there might be a reason to install a copy, but it is likely to be an expensive solution.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Thanks to the comments for pointing out several counter-examples of icebreakers where you would want several copies of the same card installed. In general you wouldn't, but there are exceptions. My answer holds true for M.Opus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16406" LastEditorUserId="16406" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T16:46:49.103" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T16:46:49.103" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24267" CreationDate="2016-06-03T14:01:23.653" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would do well to read some of the strategy on &lt;a href=&quot;http://twilightstrategy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://twilightstrategy.com&lt;/a&gt;. Without seeing you play it is impossible to tell, but there are some general techniques for prolonging a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One thing which might be preventing your games from reaching the end-game is if you are not doing much to sabotage your opponent's plans, resulting in sudden large victory point gains. As a general rule, as well as trying to dominate/control regions yourself, you should be looking to prevent your opponent from dominating and controlling regions as well. This way victory point gains will normally be in the 1-4 range rather than the 5-8 range or even higher. This will prolong the game since, if you are evenly matched, the main way one of you is likely to win early by points is to suddenly score 2-3 high-scoring regions in a row; if the victory point gains are lower then scoring 3 in a row will not end the game and will be offset when the other player's regions are scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another factor which may be ending the game early is if you are not keeping track of which cards (especially scoring cards) are still to come before the next reshuffle. If there are only 2 or 3 regions left before the next reshuffle, and you are behind on points, you should be playing heavily into those regions to make sure you get what points you can and prevent yourself losing (of course if you are not immediately threatened with losing then this sort of short-term strategy would not necessarily be best).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16406" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T14:01:23.653" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30304" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30306" CreationDate="2016-06-03T16:29:48.760" Score="1" ViewCount="843" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Hornet%20Nest&quot;&gt;Hornet Nest&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, can I cast 2x &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Axe&quot;&gt;Lightning Axe&lt;/a&gt; on it to get 10 tokens? Or does the creature die between the first Lightning Axe and the space that the opponent has to respond? I think I can play as many instants as I want on the same creature before the stack resolves and the creature dies, right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16408" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T17:23:24.027" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T17:23:24.027" Title="Can I deal damage to Hornet Nest multiple times before it dies?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30305" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30304" CreationDate="2016-06-03T16:34:07.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While you can cast 2x Lightning Axe, both targeting the Hornet Nest, both of them will not deal damage to the Hornet Nest. After the first one resolves, the Hornet Nest will die, and then when the second one resolves, it will be countered (fizzle) because its target no longer exists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State-based effects are checked by the game in between each thing on the stack resolving. So the stack would build up and tear down like this (assuming it is currently your turn):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast Lightning Axe(1), targeting Hornet Nest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, cast Lightning Axe(2), targeting Hornet Nest.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lighting Axe(2) resolves, dealing 5 damage to Hornet Nest and triggering Hornet Nest's triggered ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hornet Nest dies as a state-based action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hornet Nest's triggered ability is placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hornet Nests's tirggered ability resolves, giving you 5 token creatures.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Axe(1) tries to resolve, but is countered because it has no legal target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T16:49:56.040" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T16:49:56.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30304" CreationDate="2016-06-03T16:35:37.283" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it is your turn, you may cast two instances of Lightning Axe (or any other instant) before your opponent gets priority. However, they do not resolve until your opponent has a chance to respond. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The order is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Axe, choosing targets and paying the costs; Lightning Axe is on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You intentionally retain priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Lightning Axe, choosing targets and paying the costs; second Lightning Axe is on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority, you pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent gets priority, they may cast a spell.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent passes priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second Lightning Axe checks if the target is still legal. It is, it resolves. Creature has lethal damage.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;a. 5 Damage has been dealt to Hornet Nest, so next time priority would be given, ability that creates 5 Hornet tokens would be put on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions are checked, creature dies. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ability that creates 5 Hornet tokens goes on stack. (It resolves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You get priority, pass&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Opponent gets priority, pass.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Lightning Axe checks if target is still legal.  It is not, so it fizzles. No damage is dealt to Hornet Nest&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final result: 5 Hornet tokens&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-06-03T16:55:37.143" LastActivityDate="2016-06-03T16:55:37.143" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31357" CreationDate="2016-06-03T21:41:28.267" Score="1" ViewCount="3060" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a spell card called &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; which has the following effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time you draw a card(s) for your normal draw in your Draw Phase, place 1 Greed Counter on this card. You can send this card with 2 or more Greed Counters to the Graveyard; draw 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After reading the effect of this card, I have planned to make the following steps during a duel &lt;em&gt;(in my turn)&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Summon &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Guard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Card Guard&lt;/a&gt; in attack mode to activate its effect: &lt;em&gt;place &lt;strong&gt;1&lt;/strong&gt; Guard Counter&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Place another card &lt;em&gt;or use a copy of &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Guard&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Card Guard&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; already placed in my field &lt;em&gt;which adds one more counter&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; on my side of the field.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Give &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; those counters and send &lt;code&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/code&gt; to the Graveyard and in my next turn&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; draw &lt;strong&gt;3&lt;/strong&gt; cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I'm trying to emulate the effect of the spell card called &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Pot_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pot Of Greed&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if the steps mentioned here in my question are valid. I already checked the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Card_Rulings:Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulings of this card&lt;/a&gt;, but the page doesn't mention certain things related to my question. I also sent some tweets to users who have more knowledge about Yu-Gi-Oh!, but I haven't received answers so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; I'm not sure if the effect of &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; is activated immediately after sending this card to the Graveyard or if I have to wait for my next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15297" LastEditorUserId="22373" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:46:01.837" LastActivityDate="2018-03-13T04:46:01.837" Title="Shard of Greed - Clarification about counters and usage" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31380" CreationDate="2016-06-04T07:49:20.817" Score="2" ViewCount="824" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Tragedy Looper the the ability of the &quot;Informant&quot; character is according to the plot/character summary is that &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Goodwill 5 (1×∞): Reveal subplot A or subplot B &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;meaning that having 5 goodwill tokens she can be used once in a loop to reveal subplot A or subplot B. Neither the rulebook or the mastermind's handbook elaborate more on this ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is: who decides which subplot does she reveal? If it's the mastermind who decides it, then can he decide to reveal the same subplot over and over again, turning the ability useful for only once in a game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T14:40:23.133" Title="Who decides what does the informer reveal?" Tags="|tragedy-looper|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30309" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31336" CreationDate="2016-06-04T07:50:24.627" Score="4" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;The reference guide says, under Gaining Posessions and Condition, that when gaining a card with a specific trait:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The investigator searches that card type's deck then discard pile for the first card matching the specified trait and gains that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cannot find the card in the deck, do I search the discard pile from the most recently discarded card first, or the least recently discarded card?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Usually discard piles are face-up so that the most recently discarded is on top of the pile.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, searching is specified as looking through the deck from the bottom up.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is the bottom of the discard deck the most recently discarded card then or the first one that was discarded?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My inclination is to think that the bottom of the deck is the side that displays the contents of the card, as searching through the details of the cards tends to be easier parsing through the cards from that direction, and this search was likely described to be bottom-up to make it easier to execute.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T17:05:55.043" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T11:57:08.690" Title="When I search the discard pile, which direction do I search" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30310" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-04T10:46:31.883" Score="8" ViewCount="3270" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the Medic remove all cubes of cured diseases from the cities he travels through? Let's say he:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drives to one city (3 cured cubes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drives to another city (2 cured cubes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drives to another city (1 cured cube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;drives to another city (1 cured cube)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;does he remove all 7 cubes on the way or just at the last city?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16414" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-05-05T04:45:43.383" LastActivityDate="2018-05-05T04:45:43.383" Title="Does the Medic remove all cubes of cured diseases from the cities he travels through?" Tags="|pandemic|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="30311" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="30312" CreationDate="2016-06-04T11:57:24.730" Score="4" ViewCount="484" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Curse%20of%20Exhaustion&quot;&gt;Curse of Exhaustion&lt;/a&gt; enchanting my opponent hard lock my opponent out of playing anything when there is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Possibility%20Storm&quot;&gt;Possibility Storm&lt;/a&gt; in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T13:57:21.893" Title="Does Curse of Exhaustion and Possibility Storm hard lock your opponent out of casting anything?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30312" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30311" CreationDate="2016-06-04T13:57:21.893" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not a &lt;em&gt;total&lt;/em&gt; lock, but it's a pretty strong lock. If they cast anything from their hand, then yes, Possibility Storm will exile it and give them a replacement that they can't cast. Note that Possibility Storm only applies to casting from their hand, though. There's plenty of mechanics that cast a card from other zones (e.g. flashback, suspend, madness) that can get around this combo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T13:57:21.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30313" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30310" CreationDate="2016-06-04T14:07:08.797" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;All of the cubes. This is not an action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Medic may remove all the cubes of a single color (instead of 1)&#xA;  when performing the Treat Disease action. Also, if the Medic &lt;strong&gt;at any&#xA;  time&lt;/strong&gt; finds herself in a city that contains cubes of a disease that&#xA;  has been cured, she may immediately remove all of those cubes.  This&#xA;  unique ability is in effect during all players’ turns and does not&#xA;  cost any actions to perform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastEditorUserId="51" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T05:46:32.833" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T05:46:32.833" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2016-06-04T16:18:17.903" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't break hearts with the Ace.  If you pass the Q of spades and then lead spades, you won't be invited back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16416" LastActivityDate="2016-06-04T16:18:17.903" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30316" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31342" CreationDate="2016-06-04T20:17:23.833" Score="8" ViewCount="353" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend went to a math camp and brought back a card game called Misha's Bidding Game that is super addicting. I can't find the real name of the game on google though, so I'm guessing it's obscure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Everyone gets 5 cards, and all that matters is if they are red or&#xA;black. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Each player arranges them in a stack face down and they go in a&#xA;circle bidding how many red cards they can flip over from any deck&#xA;(bids must be strictly increasing). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Anyone can challenge a bid at any time, and the challenged player&#xA;must flip over from the tops of anybody's stack that number of red&#xA;cards (you can pick and choose the tops of anybody's deck, even&#xA;flipping multiple ones off the same deck). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you successfully flip over the bidded number of red cards, the&#xA;challenger loses a card, otherwise you lose a card. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you lose all 5 you're out. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;After a challenge, the bidding is reset.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After you've had at least one card flipped or you lose a card, you get to reshuffle your stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16417" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-07T20:32:40.110" LastActivityDate="2017-04-07T20:32:40.110" Title="What is the real name of Misha's Bidding Game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="30318" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31318" CreationDate="2016-06-05T01:54:40.663" Score="5" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;What would happen if you cast a spell like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Grotesque%20Mutation&quot;&gt;Grotesque Mutation&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Defiant%20Bloodlord&quot;&gt;Defiant Bloodlord&lt;/a&gt;, then gain life from one source or another?&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Theoretically, he would then deal X damage (where X is the triggering life) to target opponent (from his ability), which would cause the player to heal X life (lifelink), which would cause him to deal X damage to target player, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I missing something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15461" LastEditorUserId="15461" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T02:21:54.880" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T02:21:54.880" Title="What happens if you give Defiant Bloodlord Lifelink? Infinite Health/Damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30318" CreationDate="2016-06-05T02:12:31.707" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This does not work as an infinite combo because &quot;damage&quot; is not the same as &quot;loss of life&quot;. Lifelink only happens when damage is dealt, and Defiant Bloodlord doesn't damage an opponent when you gain life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the question here for a very similar combo that &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; work like you're thinking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/13600/is-sanguine-bond-exquisite-blood-a-potential-game-ender&quot;&gt;Is Sanguine Bond + Exquisite Blood a potential game ender?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExquisite%20Blood%5d&quot;&gt;Exquisite Blood&lt;/a&gt; triggers whenever an opponent loses life, as opposed to Lifelink which has to do with damage dealt, it will cause a loop of triggers until your opponent loses the game. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDefiant%20Bloodlord%5d&quot;&gt;Defiant Bloodlord&lt;/a&gt; could be used instead of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSanguine%20Bond%5d&quot;&gt;Sanguine Bond&lt;/a&gt; in that combo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The official rules on Lifelink:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.15b Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much life (in addition to any other results that damage causes). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Lifelink just changes the results of damage; it does not trigger on life being lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T02:18:12.553" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31319" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T05:04:09.007" Score="6" ViewCount="1851" Body="&lt;p&gt;During a recent game, a player was defeated. He chose another investigator but when he came to receive the starting items, we realised that they were actually with another investigator in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should happen in that case? Does the new investigator just miss out on those items or do they take them from the other investigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T05:34:37.520" Title="Starting items for investigator not available" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31320" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31319" CreationDate="2016-06-05T05:24:03.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the items are not available in the card stack, the new investigator does not receive those items. Doesn't matter how they've been pulled out of the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12884" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T05:24:03.910" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31321" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31319" CreationDate="2016-06-05T05:34:37.520" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the items are unavailable, the new investigator cannot take them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/eldritch-horror/support/EH%20Errata%20&amp;amp;%20FAQ%202015-01-23.pdf&quot;&gt;the official errata &amp;amp; FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q.&lt;/strong&gt; What happens if a new investigator’s starting possessions are&#xA;  being used by another investigator?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A.&lt;/strong&gt; When a player chooses a new investigator, he receives&#xA;  that investigator’s starting possessions from the decks,&#xA;  discard piles, or reserve. If the starting possessions are not&#xA;  in these places, such as if another investigator or a defeated&#xA;  investigator has them, the new investigator does not start&#xA;  with those possessions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T05:34:37.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30308" CreationDate="2016-06-05T06:37:14.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Protagonist leader chooses which subplot (first or second) to reveal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules: &#xA;&lt;code&gt;The Protagonist Leader announces aloud what ability he uses and&#xA;also the target&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T13:10:30.000" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:10:30.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30316" CreationDate="2016-06-05T06:41:09.950" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a variant of liar's dice, played with cards and using only the numbers ${0,1}$ instead of dice with ${1,2,3,4,5,6}$.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;On Wikipedia, the article with that name gives more detail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T06:41:09.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31324" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30307" CreationDate="2016-06-05T07:42:39.237" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &quot;Shard of Greed&quot; has two Greed Counters on it, then you can activate its effect only during your turn's Main Phase. This starts a Chain Link.&#xA;Basically when it has two counter send to graveyard and draw two cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17421" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T07:42:39.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31325" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T16:15:56.583" Score="2" ViewCount="6095" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398434&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Jace, Vryn's Prodigy&lt;/a&gt; with 3 cards in my graveyard. My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; on Jace. Can I attempt to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20to%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt; my Jace, and then in response to my own Path, use Jace's ability to loot so I have the 3 cards, Path and the newly discarded card in the graveyard, so that Jace flips, and Bolt and Path are both countered because they lost their target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17422" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-06-05T16:25:53.673" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T16:25:53.673" Title="When do spells go to the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31325" CreationDate="2016-06-05T16:24:25.460" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells don't go to the graveyard until they're done resolving:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2k As the final part of an instant or sorcery spell’s resolution, the spell is put into its owner’s graveyard. As the final part of an ability’s resolution, the ability is removed from the stack and ceases to exist.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course in your situation, you're hoping for Path to Exile to be in the graveyard before it even &lt;em&gt;starts&lt;/em&gt; to resolve. If you do something &quot;in response&quot; to casting Path to Exile, that means Path to Exile is still on the stack. The stack is its own game zone; spells that are there can't be in the graveyard (or any other zone).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So this definitely doesn't work. You'll loot with Jace, have four cards in the graveyard (so he won't transform), then Path to Exile will exile him (now you have 5 cards in your graveyard, but too late), then your opponent's Lightning Bolt will have no target and be countered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-06-05T16:24:25.460" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31327" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-05T17:47:45.357" Score="2" ViewCount="29600" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Commander, your General's color identity defines what other cards you get to use, but what happens when you have a colorless General? Can you play any other colors of cards (WUBRG), or are you stuck playing only colorless?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17423" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-02-27T09:28:58.910" LastActivityDate="2020-02-27T09:28:58.910" Title="If I use a colorless commander, can I use colored spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31327" CreationDate="2016-06-05T18:45:12.593" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only use cards with a colorless color identity with a commander that has a colorless color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Commander_(format)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 903&lt;/a&gt; has the rules for the commander format, and the following subrules are relevant here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.4.&lt;/strong&gt; The Commander variant uses color identity to determine what cards can be in a deck with a certain commander. &lt;strong&gt;The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card’s mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.5.&lt;/strong&gt; Each Commander deck is subject to the following deck construction rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.5c&lt;/strong&gt; A card can be included in a Commander deck only if every color in its color identity is also found in the color identity of the deck’s commander.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Colorless&amp;quot; color identity means that the card has &lt;strong&gt;no colors&lt;/strong&gt; in its color identity. If you tried to put a card in your deck that had any colors in its cost or rules text or indicator, then it would have a color in its color identity that is not in the commander's color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-12-16T20:29:56.343" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31330" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T00:03:44.567" Score="2" ViewCount="976" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've attacked with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Kaalia%20of%20the%20Vast&quot;&gt;Kaalia of the Vast&lt;/a&gt; and I decide to use her triggered ability to put &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Desolation%20Angel&quot;&gt;Desolation Angel&lt;/a&gt; onto the battlefield. Do I get the opportunity to pay for the kicker and destroy my opponents lands? Or does it come into play and blow up my own lands?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17428" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T00:09:59.987" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T00:11:44.950" Title="Can I pay kicker on a creature put into play with Kaalia's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31331" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31330" CreationDate="2016-06-06T00:11:44.950" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Kicker is an additional cost that can be paid as you're &lt;em&gt;casting&lt;/em&gt; a spell, which you an see from the reminder text on Desolation Angel:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kicker {W}{W} (You may pay an additional {W}{W} as you cast this spell.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only pay it when you're casting Desolation Angel. If it's being put directly onto the battlefield, like with Kaalia's ability, it's not being cast, so you can't pay the kicker cost, and it'll destroy only your lands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T00:11:44.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31332" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-06T07:08:31.183" Score="2" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was curious to know if there was a RPG themed boardgame (or a RPG in a box) &#xA;that could &lt;strong&gt;use GM's as a primary mechanic&lt;/strong&gt;, or just in there.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Kinda like to GM as much as I like to play a board game doing both would be amazing, even if what you narrate is decided by dice or cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would you know of any titles by any chance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(the reason for mice and mystics is that its commonly known as a &lt;strong&gt;RPG in a box)&lt;/strong&gt;          &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17430" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T15:29:33.150" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T15:29:33.150" Title="Has there been known of a board game that co exists with a GM?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-06T21:56:36.260" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31334" CreationDate="2016-06-06T07:23:28.273" Score="0" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;From which expansion is this magic the gathering card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jykuv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jykuv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17431" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T10:08:44.003" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T10:08:44.003" Title="From which expansion is this magic the gathering card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-06-06T21:46:10.637" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31334" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31333" CreationDate="2016-06-06T07:36:31.767" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's Meekstone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First printed in Alpha, but this particular one is probably from fourth Edition due to the look and wording on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2058&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2058&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T07:36:31.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31332" CreationDate="2016-06-06T07:43:58.467" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think games like Descent is what you're looking for. It's a boardgame where a GM plays against a group of adventurers, and you can add as much roleplay as the group sees fit. &#xA;If Star Wars is your thing, Imperial Assault is basically Descent re-themed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16402" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T07:43:58.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30309" CreationDate="2016-06-06T07:49:18.213" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;An official answer from Nikki Valens (head designer of Eldritch Horror):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The investigator will search the discard pile bottom to top. That is, starting with cards that were discarded earliest and ending with the cards discarded most recently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T11:57:08.690" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T11:57:08.690" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31332" CreationDate="2016-06-06T10:01:41.043" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your question is a bit vague.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game like HeroQuest can be seen as RPG Light with limited rules. (And you could use the props with other RPG's).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game like Aye Dark Overlord doesn't have a GM, but there is one player (the dark overlord) that needs to be pleased by the other players. So there is a bit of a narrator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T10:01:41.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31340" CreationDate="2016-06-06T11:09:34.950" Score="2" ViewCount="307" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a creature with a surge ability as my commander?&#xA;a creature such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tyrant%20of%20Valakut&quot;&gt;Tyrant of Valakut&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so would this allow me to bypass the cost increase by using the surge ability, or would the surge cost increase as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am new to commander so I am not fully aware of the comprehensive rules on creature abilities like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T12:30:04.000" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T12:30:04.000" Title="Creatures with Surge as Commander" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31339" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30307" CreationDate="2016-06-06T11:49:24.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Shard of Greed specifically needs &quot;Greed Counters&quot; so even if you did use the &quot;guard counters&quot; off Card Guard the effect of Shard of Greed wouldn't be useable as they are incorrect counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You would need to wait until shard of greed had built up the counters from it's own effect before you could use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15268" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T11:49:24.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31338" CreationDate="2016-06-06T11:56:20.013" Score="4" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a creature with a surge ability as my commander?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Surge does not care about where your card is when you cast it, so it also works in command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You still need to apply commander tax to the cost afterwards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a creature such as Tyrant of Valakut?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe your commander should be a legendary creature, which Tyrant of Valakut is not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T11:56:20.013" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31341" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30316" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:04:27.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I immediately had to think of a dice game called Perudo which &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dudo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;according to Wikipedia goes by many names: &lt;strong&gt;Dudo&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Cacho&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Pico&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Perudo&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Cachito&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Dadinho&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Pirate's Dice&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and is a variant of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liar&amp;#39;s_dice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;liar's dice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. No idea about the card game though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15138" LastEditorUserId="15138" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T05:37:26.290" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T05:37:26.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30316" CreationDate="2016-06-06T13:48:00.137" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is very similar to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/92415/skull&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Skull&lt;/a&gt;. Skull has a fixed ratio of 3 red (roses) to 1 black (skull) and you only have to be correct twice to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T13:48:00.137" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31343" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31344" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:26:10.877" Score="2" ViewCount="106" Body="&lt;p&gt;When exactly does &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Drug Dealer&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It says &quot;When the corp's turn begins, draw 1 card.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When does that trigger on the corp's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does it trigger before the corp gets priority on turn 1.2?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The runner has 0 cards in hand at the end of the runners turn. The runner has &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Drug Dealer&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; out. The corp has &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/10050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bio Ethics Association&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; rezzed. Does the &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/10050&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Bio Ethics Association&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt; fire first and kill the runner or does the runner get to draw a card before taking net damage with &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/08083&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;code&gt;Drug Dealer&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:39:43.980" Title="Drug Dealer trigger priority" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31344" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31343" CreationDate="2016-06-06T17:39:43.980" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both trigger at 1.2. Because it’s the corp’s turn, their card will activate first (see page 22, Simultaneous Effects), so the runner gets flatlined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5784" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T17:39:43.980" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31351" CreationDate="2016-06-06T20:21:40.860" Score="2" ViewCount="1733" Body="&lt;p&gt;Toward the end of the game, you want to get rid of as many tiles as you can so that they don't count against you. Or do you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yesterday, with less than 20 tiles to go, I got a few points for extending &quot;RE&quot; (considered a word in our group) to &quot;rein&quot; by adding &quot;IN.&quot; That seemed like a bad move, because this opened up two columns for my two opponents who each got a multiple of the points that I did. Given the chance to play this again, I would exchanged tiles, or even passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does there come a point toward the endgame where you &quot;play not to lose&quot; rather than &quot;play to win?&quot; That is, should you refrain from making moves that help you if you suspect that they will help your opponents more? Should you sometimes &quot;burn&quot; tiles and turns and let your opponents make moves that help you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that you can't immediately end the game in your favor by using up all your tiles, and thereby preventing your opponents from responding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-06-06T21:04:53.367" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T09:29:51.330" Title="What are good tips for playing the endgame in Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31346" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31345" CreationDate="2016-06-06T21:06:10.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, this is a real strategy in many board games, especially those with multiple rounds.  Sometimes you need to play in a way that is purely for your immediate benefit (get rid of as many tiles as possible and gain as many points as possible along the way).  Other times a way to (indirectly) come out ahead is to cause another player harm (ie. don't play your two tiles for negligible gain when that opens up a lot to an opponent who may be able to capitalize on it).  Either way, it's a bit of a gamble as to which will be more helpful.  Without perfect and complete information, you will never know for sure what is best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Say you are playing Uno and the player next to you has one card left.  You suspect it is a green card.  It would be a really bad move to switch the color of the discard pile to green.  Unless the card they have really isn't green.  Stopping another player from winning is a way to help yourself.  Problem is you don't know for sure if what you do will stop them, so it's a gamble.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playing hearts (or some other game where you gain unwanted points between rounds).  It may be beneficial in the long game to help someone besides yourself win a round in order to cause another player to end up at a disadvantage.  (ie. player A is doing really well and player B is about to go out and end the round.  If the round ends now, player A will get a lot of points, making it harder for them to win and thus easier for you.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Scrabble, don't play words / letters that are easy to extend off of for negligible gain.  Playing the word &quot;the&quot; next to a double word score tile is probably a bad idea because any one of a few letters will let your opponents extend that and get much more than you got out of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, these kinds of plays are more for a bit of a long term strategy or to stall the game (if the game works like that).  But ultimately it can work, you just won't really know every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2016-06-06T21:06:10.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31347" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T08:59:20.457" Score="1" ViewCount="141" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://thewitcher.com/en/adventuregame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Witcher Adventure Game&lt;/a&gt;, you can play as one of four characters trying to complete a set of quest. Geralt is clearly a monster slayer and as such should pick quests form the combat desk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there a good generic strategy that can be applied to Geralt?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="13205" LastEditDate="2019-06-15T07:38:43.663" LastActivityDate="2019-06-15T07:38:43.663" Title="What is a good generic strategy for playing as Geralt?" Tags="|the-witcher-adventure-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2019-06-19T23:43:11.443" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31348" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-07T09:03:58.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game allows players to chose from one of four characters (Geralt, Triss, Danelion, and Yarpen) in the Witcher's world. Each character has to complete three quests chosen between combat, diplomacy, or magic. Quests have side quests that can be completed for extra victory points. After the third quest is completed, the game ends and whoever has the most victory points wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some links to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://meta.boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/1484/5318&quot;&gt;main page&lt;/a&gt; for the game, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2014/11/21/the-witcher-and-the-bard/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Witcher and Bard&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2014/11/24/dwarven-warrior-and-cunning-sorceress/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dwarg and Sorceress&lt;/a&gt; previews.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T11:43:01.270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T11:43:01.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31349" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-07T09:03:58.457" Score="0" Body="The Witcher Adventure Game takes players on a journey across the world of the critically acclaimed Witcher franchise." OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T11:43:04.113" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T11:43:04.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31350" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T09:45:23.293" Score="6" ViewCount="7304" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game monopoly, can two players create an agreement to proxy buy properties on a players behalf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: player one gives player two $100, in exchange if player two lands on boardwalk, player one will give player two the $400 dollars, player two purchases boardwalk, and gives it to player one. Effectively allowing player one to purchase boardwalk by having player two land on it for a fee. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this doesn't break any of the wrote rules in the game as far as I know, is this prohibited in any way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17444" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T21:51:28.750" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T22:12:23.637" Title="Can players buy other players properties by proxy?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31345" CreationDate="2016-06-07T10:17:00.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a huge amount of information out there about Scrabble end-games - far more than I can summarise here - but most of it concerns two-player games. In those situations, it becomes possible to plan out the last few moves with a great deal of accuracy, since once the tiles are gone from the bag you can work out exactly what is on your opponent's rack. The key becomes maximising the points differential between you: so a 5 point move where the best response is 10 points would be preferable to a 10 point move with a possible response worth 20 points. You also need to factor in the letters that might be left on your rack at the end, since these tiles are worth double to your opponent (once when they are subtracted from your score and again when they are added to theirs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 3 or 4 player game, as you describe, it is much harder to control the flow of play and work out what the other players are going to do. Therefore, it's much more about just maximising your score on any given turn. Still, there are a couple of things you can do in the endgame to help your chances:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Get rid of any high-scoring tiles from your rack as a priority.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Go for longer words if possible so that you can be the first to empty your rack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As @Becuzz suggests, try not to leave any blatant double- or triple- word opportunities for the player following you.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the bag is empty and you can't see the Q, you know one of your opponents has it, so try to block any tempting spots they could play it out.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on the situation, some of these may be mutually exclusive, so you need to make a judgement call on which is a priority. E.g. if you have six tiles and an opponent only has two left, they will probably be able to clear their rack next go, so your priority should be to get rid of any high-scoring tiles from your rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastEditorUserId="14607" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T13:28:11.007" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T13:28:11.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31355" CreationDate="2016-06-07T11:54:09.347" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the 4 chips used for?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The instructions make no mention of them. Some have speculated they are used to mark &quot;coup fourré&quot;, or extension to 1000 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJXz.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJXz.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mille Bornes game items&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17446" LastEditorUserId="22346" LastEditDate="2018-07-25T18:09:47.540" LastActivityDate="2018-07-25T18:09:47.540" Title="Mille Bornes - What is the purpose of the chips?" Tags="|mille-bornes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31350" CreationDate="2016-06-07T11:55:10.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If player two lands on Boardwalk (which is currently) occupied, he has two choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buy the property. He needs to have money to buy it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decline. The property is put up for auction. All players can bid and the property is sold to the highest bidder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your option, player one pays player two before player two purchases Boardwalk and gives it to player one. The order of events is flawed. If player two has enough money, he could buy the property and sell it to player one. &#xA;But if player two hasn't enough money, he can't buy it, so there will be an auction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doing it your way pisses off other players. And the main goal in playing a game is to have fun. It is perfectly acceptable to outsmart another player if you act within the rules. But if you enter a gray area, people get frustrated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T22:12:23.637" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T22:12:23.637" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31352" CreationDate="2016-06-07T14:07:14.393" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is still exists in the Dujardin Prestige edition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sold Here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeuxdujardin.fr/mille-bornes-prestige.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jeuxdujardin.fr/mille-bornes-prestige.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rules Here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.jeuxdujardin.fr/files/regles/mille-bornes-prestige-regles-du-jeu.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.jeuxdujardin.fr/files/regles/mille-bornes-prestige-regles-du-jeu.pdf&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the section for Coup-Fourre:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Note: pour se souvenir qu'on a fait un Coup-Fourre, on prend un jeton&#xA;  et on le pose devant soi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T14:07:14.393" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:18:43.833" Score="19" ViewCount="2553" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ticket to Ride UK, there is a destination card from Glasgow to France that has two routes to France.  The points on the card are 19.  If a player completes both routes to France that are indicated on this destination card, would the player receive 38 points?  Or is the player required to complete both destinations for 19 points?  This is not clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKTAY.jpg&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKTAY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Glasgow to France Card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17452" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T18:42:55.653" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T02:07:58.940" Title="Do you need to complete both routes indicated on a destination card?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30307" CreationDate="2016-06-07T16:43:02.697" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That does not work for two reasons. The first reason is that &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; can only use greed counters. This does not necessarily mean that you can only use counters from its own effect, but at the moment there are no other card that exist in the game that use &lt;strong&gt;greed counters&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second reason is that the card explicitly says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can send this card with 2 or more Greed Counters to the Graveyard; draw 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because it does not say that you get to draw one card for every counter on it, you would not be allowed to draw more than &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt;'s activate effect has a spell speed of one, which means that you can only activate it either during your &lt;strong&gt;Main Phase 1&lt;/strong&gt; or during your &lt;strong&gt;Main Phase 2&lt;/strong&gt;. I hope this helps to clarify the card for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional information regarding the commented questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards like &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Skelengel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Skelengel&lt;/a&gt; and other cards that allow you to draw will not let you more greed counters on this card. The reason being that the card specifies:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each time you draw a card(s) for your normal draw in your Draw Phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning that you can not add more counters on to &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; with the effects of cards, only by normally drawing a card. Also the part that says &quot;card(s)&quot; makes it so that even if you had a card that allowed you to draw more cards during your draw phase (ie: &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Heart_of_the_Underdog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Heart of the Underdog&lt;/a&gt;) you will not be able to place multiple counters on your card during the same turn.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Also your question on counters is relatively simple. There are various types of counters in the game. Spellcasters typically use &lt;strong&gt;Spell Counters&lt;/strong&gt;, and &lt;strong&gt;Six Samurai&lt;/strong&gt; usually use &lt;strong&gt;Bushido Counters&lt;/strong&gt; the reason for differing between these counters is that the card makers don't want people being able to abuse cards such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shard_of_Greed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shard of Greed&lt;/a&gt; in the exact kind of situation you are describing. This also means that when playing, you need a way to differentiate between the types of counters you have on the field if you are using multiple counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastEditorUserId="21943" LastEditDate="2017-10-19T22:12:28.557" LastActivityDate="2017-10-19T22:12:28.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31350" CreationDate="2016-06-07T17:33:57.630" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three related posts that all have decent notations of official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6472/in-monopoly-is-it-ok-for-a-third-party-to-make-a-trade-with-a-player-who-is-abo&quot;&gt;Regarding when trading and such can occur&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6563/what-are-the-order-of-actions-in-monopoly&quot;&gt;Regarding the order of actions in a turn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7630/in-the-official-rules-of-monopoly-can-you-offer-immunity-to-other-players-in-de&quot;&gt;Regarding the giving or loaning of money to another player&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I focused on the following sections from each post.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From Link 1&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Selling Property: This may only be done at any time &lt;strong&gt;other than&lt;/strong&gt; after a player rolls the dice, but before they have paid ([Rent [and/or] Tax]) to ([another player [and/or] the Bank.]) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From Link 2&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The only action which is doable outside one's turn (according to the instructions I've got off-line, in my deluxe box) are buying auctioned properties, buying or trading properties with other players, and using cards that say &quot;use at any time.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From Link 3&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Another way to give money to another player is to sell them an unimproved property for $0, then buy it back for the amount you wish to give them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the links for more complete details, but the three posts combine give me the understanding that &lt;strong&gt;yes&lt;/strong&gt; you can. You would complete the steps as follows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 give Player 2 a gift of $100&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 2 rolls&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 2 lands on Boardwalk&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 1 gives Player 2 a gift of $400&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 2 buys Boardwalk&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 2 sells Boardwalk to Player 1 for $0  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is nothing to force them to finish the transactions. Player 1 may give Player 2 $500 and Player 2 may decide to just keep it and never trade it back. It would be a tactical move that destroyed the possibility of an alliance, but it's within the rules since the money was a &quot;gift.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Best of luck and may your friendships outlast the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-06-07T17:33:57.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31356" CreationDate="2016-06-07T17:35:09.463" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You only need to connect the two locations using &lt;em&gt;any route&lt;/em&gt; in order to claim the points.&lt;/strong&gt; Once you've connected the two locations, the Destination Ticket is considered complete and you can claim the points at the end of the game. A Destination Ticket can only be completed and scored once, even if you complete it multiple times through different routes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe this is cleared up in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cdn1.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/img/tt_africa_rules_2015.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; for the Heart of Africa expansion, which has a similar situation with Madagascar:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Madagascar is represented by 2 locations on the map; Tickets to Madagascar can be completed by reaching either of these 2 locations, even if the other location isn’t reached.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could also be applied to France in the United kingdom expansion. The question about the Glasgow-France ticket has also been &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1579702/routes-france-need-connect-both-locations-or-no&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;asked over on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; and answered the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T01:35:10.647" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T01:35:10.647" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31356" CreationDate="2016-06-07T18:33:59.583" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;You only have to make the required connection (Glasgow to France) once for 19 points. Like all destination tickets; a single ticket cannot be scored multiple times, even if you connect the locations via multiple routes. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason that the ticket shows multiple routes is because France is a country, as opposed to a city. In the base Ticket to Ride game, destination tickets are only between two cities. But in this expansion, some of them include a country instead of a city. The country behaves differently because there are multiple spaces within that country. So instead of having to connect a specific place to another specific place; you just have to connect a specific place to one of those 2 places within France.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is mentioned somewhat in the Ticket to Ride: Marklin rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some Destination Ticket include the name of a city and a country name. Each route leading to a country&#xA;  is a dead end and cannot be used to link two cities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T02:07:58.940" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T02:07:58.940" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31362" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T21:32:26.957" Score="4" ViewCount="2289" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by an answer to &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/2404/677&quot;&gt;Why does a run of 4 in Cribbage score only 4?&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The best possible hand in cribbage is 29, which involves the Jack that counts for nobs and all of the 5s. Now although hands with lots of fives are always good, often retaining just one or two will only result in a mediocre score where you count a few 15s, a pair, and are done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  ...&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  For example if you're drawing for the best possible hand failing to get that last 5 as the up card will cost you 14 points, as you'll only score 15-8, a pair royal for 6 and 1 for his nobs for 15.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: I think the count given is a bit off, or assumes something not explicitly stated - &lt;code&gt;555J&lt;/code&gt; on its own, with the J not matching any of the 5s - scores 14. Four 15s (8), plus trips (6). So, any up-card that doesn't add to that score in any way costs you 15.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As stated above, the best possible hand in cribbage is an extremely rare case. It first requires a player to be set up with a hand that happens rarely on its own (&lt;code&gt;555J&lt;/code&gt;, all different suits). Then, it requires the up-card to be one specific card - the 5 matching the in-hand J.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing for this scenario, when dealt the proper hand, could be a very risky proposition. There's about 15 points of difference between the minimum and maximum possible values of this hand, depending on the up-card. Though the minimum score of 14 is still a fairly decent hand, there's many ways that the opponent could easily out-score this hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, keeping this hand sets the player up to have points pegged against him which might be more easily avoided with a different hand selection. If the player is forced to play a 5 when the count is zero, there's a very strong possibility their opponent has something to make 15 with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, the risk/reward scenario isn't just a matter of &quot;I might score 14 or I might score 29&quot;. There's still a number of possibilities in between. So, what are the general odds that the final hand score might still be favorable? What possibilities exist between 14 and 29 here, and which are most likely?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T14:12:13.987" Title="What happens if I set up for a &quot;29 hand&quot; and miss?" Tags="|cribbage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31363" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31362" CreationDate="2016-06-07T22:23:28.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indeed, playing for 29 can be a very risky proposition - especially if you're in a late stage of the game and stand a good chance of losing if your hand scores no more than 14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To simplify, I'm setting aside any human influence here. Yes, there are two other cards known to the player, as well as six cards known and controlled by the opponent. However, none of these are going back into the deck and no further cards are being drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At best, a player might be able to use the two other cards in his hand to adjust his expectations of what the up-card could be. Of course, there's no chance at nailing 29 if you have all four 5s dealt to you along with a J and something else. But if your extra two cards each have a face value of 9 or lower, the odds that the up-card will substantially improve your score just went up a notch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, setting aside all factors except the 4 mandatory cards in the starter hand simplifies calculations and gives a relatively solid baseline for our expectations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you take out the rainbow hand of three 5s and a J, you have 48 cards left in the deck. Of these, the possible up-card scenarios are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The 5 that matches the in-hand J (29 points, 2%)&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the only way to score 29 and maximize this hand. And there's only one card that can do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any remaining J (22 points, 6.25%)&lt;/strong&gt; - This adds three more 15s and a pair to your base, for an 8-point boost. Counting out just the given base hand, there's three of these left in the deck.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T/Q/K matching the in-hand J (21 points, 6.25%)&lt;/strong&gt; - Again, giving you three more 15s. Add on the knob and it's a 7-point total boost. Also, like the Jacks, there's only three ways to do this.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any other T/Q/K (20 points, 18.75%)&lt;/strong&gt; - Not matching the in-hand J, but still having face value of 10, means we lose the knob/pair points but keep the 15s. There's nine ways to do this though, so our odds here are relatively favorable in comparison to the previous scenarios.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totaling the above gives us a one-in-three chance of scoring 20 or better. With a minimum possible score of 14, that's still a very nice hand! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as you'll see below, two-thirds of the possible scenarios will only bump your score by one point at most - and the majority of those don't add to it at all. If scoring 16 or more is absolutely crucial in the round where you get this hand, you might want to put off your dreams of hitting 29 for another day.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any other card matching the in-hand J (15 points, 16.67%)&lt;/strong&gt; - Anything other than 5/T/Q/K, which matches the in-hand J, only gives us one additional point for knobs. No extra 15s or pairs. This is where things start looking relatively bleak, since there's eight ways to do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Any card not categorized above (14 points, 50.00%)&lt;/strong&gt; - This is the bare-minimum possible score with a hand that might otherwise score 29. We've got the three 15s for pairing each 5 with the J (6), the one 15 by adding all the 5s (+2), and a three-card match between the 5s (+6). Any up-card that's not a T/J/Q/K, and doesn't match the in-hand J, will not add to this. Having 24 ways to do this, out of 48 possible up-cards, gives us coin-flip odds of being stuck with the minimum score for this hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="677" LastEditorUserId="28298" LastEditDate="2020-01-05T14:12:13.987" LastActivityDate="2020-01-05T14:12:13.987" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31364" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-07T22:40:21.880" Score="1" ViewCount="521" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 3 player games (only played 4 player a couple times), as I see occupations and minor improvements get dealt out (draft mode), I never see any cards that make me think, &quot;Hey, that would make animals a viable strategy to feed my family the whole game.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I end up only using animals for the first harvest or two to cook sheep because nothing makes them seem viable for the whole game. Is that just how it is? Are there more cards in 4 player that help this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="15783" LastEditDate="2016-06-07T23:05:23.590" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T21:11:43.437" Title="Agricola: What cards allow for animals be the main source of food for my family?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31368" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-08T08:13:22.873" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/the-witcher-adventure-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Witcher Adventure Game&lt;/a&gt;, you can play as one of four characters trying to complete a set of quest. Yarpen is possibly the hardest character to play. He does not have a go to quest deck her can go to. However, I suspect that companions are key to Yapren's success.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Is there a good generic strategy that can be applied to Yarpen?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2016-06-08T08:13:22.873" Title="What is a good generic strategy for playing as Yarpen?" Tags="|the-witcher-adventure-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31371" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:00:53.400" Score="-1" ViewCount="947" Body="&lt;p&gt;One way of awarding prizes in Magic Tournaments is to &quot;rare re-draft&quot;, where you take all the higher value cards that have been opened while drafting (6-8 players, 3 packs per player, approx 1 rare per pack, so 24 rares/mythic rares (+ foils)), and the winner gets first choice of card, the player who came second gets the next choice and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I've done the maths correctly, this is &lt;em&gt;appallingly&lt;/em&gt; bad value for weaker players, not just in terms of how it benefits stronger players, but just compared to keeping the rares they open while drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this accurate, or have I got my maths wrong?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="316" LastEditorUserId="316" LastEditDate="2016-06-08T21:32:37.440" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T12:12:36.477" Title="How much worse is Rare Re-drafting for the weakest player than opening a random pack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="14" ClosedDate="2016-06-09T21:35:05.673" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31364" CreationDate="2016-06-08T21:41:33.583" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, breeding animals should be enough to feed your family if you have a cooking hearth.  Breeding Sheep gives you 2f per harvest, Boar give you 3f, and Cows give you 4f.  That's 9f per harvest once you have them all going. The problem is having space for all of the animal types, then getting your hands on them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One card that helps with both those aspects in 4-player is &lt;strong&gt;Animal Breeder&lt;/strong&gt;.  He allows you to buy animal pairs whenever you fence unused spaces.  He is one of the best cards in the game, and I almost always pick him first in draft.  If you fence early and fence often, you can get all animal types breeding very quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are generally more animal-based Occupations for 4+ players.  For example, &lt;strong&gt;Cowherd&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Swineherd&lt;/strong&gt; (similar to 3+ player &lt;strong&gt;Sheep Farmer&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Animal Dealer&lt;/strong&gt;) let you take an additional animal when you use the appropriate action space. If you are using expansions there are even more.  &lt;strong&gt;Dove Hunter&lt;/strong&gt; from France Deck lets you turn 1 sheep into 4 food (or 1 cow into 6 food) every harvest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just a few of my favorites for animal-based feeding.  There are plenty of others, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2415" LastEditorUserId="2415" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T21:11:43.437" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T21:11:43.437" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31371" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31369" CreationDate="2016-06-08T22:07:35.153" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Expected value is obviously lower, but in an 8 player draft the last place player still gets the 8th most valuable card.  Imagine that the value distribution is something like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;10 most valuable cards - $50 each&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;14 other cards - $1 each&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total value of the cards is $514, so you could say that the EV of each card is $21, and the total EV without re-drafting is $63.  With re-drafting, the value is exactly $52.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But now think about standard deviation.  Without re-drafting, there is a significant chance the player ends up with a value of $3.  With it, they will get $52 regardless of their performance. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The moral of the story is that if there are enough expensive cards available that even the last player gets one, re-drafting gives them a consistent value, while otherwise there is a chance that they end up with practically nothing (or possibly a jackpot).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T12:12:36.477" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T12:12:36.477" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31373" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T02:50:44.160" Score="8" ViewCount="467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Example of card names: The Magil, Sirens of Aphron, Tristes Unum, Cerga Mobster etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 64 cards. All 64 cards are different. Top left of the Cerga Mobster card is written 14 FrP - 12 Gui - 9 Lck as do other cards but with different amounts. See attached pictures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dmf45.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Dmf45.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17461" LastEditorUserId="50" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T16:50:47.370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:24:29.523" Title="I found this deck of cards and have no clue what it is called or how it is played" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31374" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T03:56:32.893" Score="1" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw4K6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kw4K6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;same case that we have encountered and encircled black one is pocketed&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;One player pocket the black piece of other player while the queen is still on the board. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the other player whose black piece was being pocketed by other player wins? If so, then by how many points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17462" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T06:24:56.113" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T10:15:02.300" Title="In carrom, what if a player pocket the last piece of other player, while queen still on the board?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-10T03:21:30.727" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31375" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T07:36:49.630" Score="5" ViewCount="276" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing Parcheesi with cowry shells as dice. I am on the last square and need a roll of one to return the pawn to home. However, with cowry dice, only rolls of 10+grace, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6+grace, 25+grace are possible. An exact throw is required. What is the solution to the problem? Can the 10 throw also stand for 1 in cowry dice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17464" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2022-06-16T23:17:40.303" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T23:17:40.303" Title="Rolling One With Cowry Dice" Tags="|pachisi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31377" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31375" CreationDate="2016-06-09T12:05:19.420" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hopefully you are playing Pachisi and not Parcheesi.  If yes, then this answer is accurate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An ebook by Damian Walker here:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://books.google.com/books?id=LS_hBwAAQBAJ&amp;amp;lpg=PA20&amp;amp;ots=eMHl_bROM1&amp;amp;dq=pachisi%20damian%20walker&amp;amp;pg=PP1#v=onepage&amp;amp;q=pachisi%20damian%20walker&amp;amp;f=false&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;A Book of Historic Board Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 25 - 1.2.7&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A grace counts as if were a separate throw scoring 1, in addition to&#xA;  the value of the cowries.  Graces are used for entering and moving&#xA;  pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as you have a grace at then end of your set of rolls you can bring this piece home.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T12:05:19.420" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31378" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-09T15:06:06.400" Score="8" ViewCount="4350" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought the core set a while ago and now I'd like to get some more cards, afaik there are multiple ways to do that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;data packs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;deluxe expansions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;big box?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What's the difference between them? As I've read the data packs each belong to a cycle, what's that all about? What's the bigbox? I got that term from the wiki at reddit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Unlike FFG's other Living Card Games, Netrunner doesn't require that you pick up the &quot;big box&quot; expansion before getting the data packs from that cycle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd be really thankful for a quick summary of how all of this works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16404" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T16:02:36.663" LastActivityDate="2017-02-14T12:35:42.167" Title="I don't really understand how the expansions/data packs work in android netrunner" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31379" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31378" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:02:36.463" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Big Box expansions are deluxe expansions, those terms are synonymous. There are only 4 of these and they will always be tournament legal. Their structure focuses on specific factions (e.g., the first only pertained to HB and Shaper, with some neutral cards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data packs come in &quot;cycles&quot; of 6 packs, which cover all the factions and have an overarching theme (usually in terms of story or mechanics).  We are currently on cycle 5 (the Mumbad cycle).  At some point in the future, the first two cycles will rotate out of competitive play but that won't be for at least a year or two. If you are just playing casually, this won't affect you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No matter what you buy, you can find information on which cards are available in each pack online.  All packs should be available at your FLGS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unlike with some of FFG's other LCGs (e.g., for Lord of the Rings each deluxe expansion is necessary to play with the following adventure packs, but this is rare for the LCG model), in Netrunner you can pull cards from any expansion you want for your deck - so there is no need to buy everything unless you are a completionist (like many of us). This is what FFG meant in the above quote - you can play a Criminal deck without purchasing Honor &amp;amp; Profit (the big box expansion that features Criminal cards) - however, in most cases, the big boxes yield some great cards and are worth the investment!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a practical tip, you can browse &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;netrunnerdb.com&lt;/a&gt; for decks, and when viewing one that strikes your fancy, click Sort above the decklist and choose &quot;By Set&quot;.  That will tell you where all the cards for that particular list can be found.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2016-06-09T21:45:29.293" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T21:45:29.293" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30308" CreationDate="2016-06-09T16:56:27.160" Score="5" Body="&lt;h1&gt;UPDATE: Cosmic Evil's release changed the effects of two characters: the Police Officer and the Informer.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the release of Cosmic Evil, two base game characters were rebalanced to prevent certain complex timing issues, those being the Police Officer and the Informant, and cards were included to replace the corresponding character cards in the base game. New releases of the base game will have these new cards as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The informer's goodwill ability is now as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goodwill 5 (1×∞):&lt;/strong&gt; Leader names the name of any subplot. Then, the Mastermind must name the title of another active subplot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a practical standpoint, this is mostly the same, however there are a few situations in which the order of the subplots actually matters (e.g. Cosmic Mythology's Extra-2 effect, which reveals the first subplot at the end of the loop), and this rebalance prevents that information specifically from leaking. This also means that it is possible for the Mastermind to actually have a choice - if the Protagonist Leader names a subplot not actually in use, the Mastermind can name either of the subplots that are active.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rebalanced ability's wording does present an issue in the event of the protagonist leader naming the only active subplot when using the &quot;First Steps&quot; set. For that set alone, an obvious rule patch is to treat the ability as &quot;Reveal the script's subplot.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the Police Officer, the abilities are now as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goodwill 4 (1×∞):&lt;/strong&gt; Reveal culprit for former incident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Goodwill 5 (1×∞):&lt;/strong&gt; Put an Extra marker on another character in same location. Remove that marker to prevent that character from dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This change has two effects: First, it allows the Protagonists to stick a &quot;shield&quot; (so to speak) on a different character they need to protect. Secondly, it means the Police Officer himself can no longer be protected by his own ability, since he is no longer a valid target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;When a goodwill ability is activated, the player activating the ability decides target and intended effect.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The protagonist leader for the turn, when they activate goodwill abilities, decide on the target(s) and the intended effect when there are multiple candidates for the ability. For the original Informer character, the possible targets are either of the subplots (unless the first steps tragedy set is used, in which case it's the one subplot in play). The only input the Mastermind may have on a Goodwill ability is if the character has optional goodwill refusal (which the Mastermind may then invoke, AFTER the protagonist has decided on the target and effect). When the mastermind activates an ability, he decides the target (and effect) himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some other notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;For abilities that reveal a character's role, note that &quot;Person&quot; is considered a role, which means the valid targets of that ability include characters that do not have a role in the plot or any sub-plot. It is entirely legal for a protagonist leader to pick one of these characters as the target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Boy Student and Girl Student can only have their abilities used on other students. (You'd be surprised how many people forget to check this)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The AI's ability (see Midnight Circle expansion) effectively grants full control over any one incident to the protagonist leader, which means THEY decide the target instead of the Mastermind. It also prevents the incident from being counted as an event (which is important for some scenarios)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Goodwill Refusal (mandatory or optional) can be damaging to the protagonist's initial plan, but it does give them information since Goodwill Refusal is determined by the character's role. Goodwill Refusal on the Doctor is particularly powerful for the Mastermind as it gives him access to the Doctor's first goodwill ability as a Mastermind ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Due to rule priorities, the Alien's second ability CANNOT be used on the Key Person, as the loop would have already ended on their death. The original Police Officer's second ability, however, can, since it prevents the death entirely. (The rebalanced Police Officer's second ability can also stop the death, but it has to be used in advance)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is perfectly legal for a protagonist to use an ability in such a manner that it causes the loop to end. An example would be using the Alien's first ability to kill the Key Person.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="7325" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T14:40:23.133" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T14:40:23.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31403" CreationDate="2016-06-09T17:53:05.473" Score="1" ViewCount="362" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the components of &lt;em&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/em&gt; are additional Injury and Madness cards, which were originally for the &lt;em&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/em&gt; expansion. The rules for &lt;em&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/em&gt; say this about the cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are using the &lt;em&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/em&gt; expansion, shuffle the new Injury, Madness, and Dunwich Horror cards into their respective decks. If you are not using the &lt;em&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/em&gt; expansion, return all the new Injury, Madness, and Dunwich Horror cards to the box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have heard many players rave about how much fun the Injury and Madness cards make the game, but unfortunately I don't own &lt;em&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite what the rules say, is it possible to play with these cards found in &lt;em&gt;Miskatonic Horror&lt;/em&gt; without &lt;em&gt;Dunwich Horror&lt;/em&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T02:29:59.837" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T07:18:06.087" Title="Can I use the Injury and Madness cards from Miskatonic Horror without Dunwich Horror?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-dunwich-horror|arkham-horror-miskatonic-horror|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31382" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31378" CreationDate="2016-06-09T18:06:07.163" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;@Twitch_City's answer is good, I'm going to take a stab at a shorter alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You only need to buy whatever Deluxe Expansions and Data Packs have the cards you want to play with. You can even play without the Core Set if you don't need any of the cards from it (which is unlikely - you probably want some of them), you can use pennies or pieces of colored paper or dice or whatever as tokens. Use &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;NRDB&lt;/a&gt; to pick or build a deck you want to play, and buy the appropriate packs of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a long-term perspective if you care about Tournaments, Deluxe Expansions are never going out of rotation, so they'll always be in the potential pool of cards for deckbuilding. But that's not a very immediate concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T18:06:07.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31383" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31404" CreationDate="2016-06-09T20:08:33.087" Score="9" ViewCount="722" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my current design each player needs to kill an other player assigned to them. They have a character card and a target card which shows which character they have to eliminate to get points. Both the identities and the targets are hidden. The players get clues about their target during gameplay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My problem is I don't know how to make sure during the setup of the game that no one gets themself as target (that is the identitiy and target cards show the same character). Reshuffling every time when someone realizes they got themself would be lame. Especially that in case of &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; player this is expected to happen in every &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt;th game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An idea I got is to shuffle the same id and target cards together, then take the first id card (face down) and put it into an other pair, then the original character card of that pair is taken to another pair, etc. until all pairs are done. Finally shuffle them again and give them to the players. This seems a bit long (and maybe overcomplicated?) to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A mobile application would be an easy way to solve this problem, but I would rather not force the players to use their phones to play this game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any better way? Is there maybe any existing game which had a similiar mechanic? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17469" LastActivityDate="2017-10-05T16:30:44.187" Title="How to make sure a player will not draw their own character card as target?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18860" CreationDate="2016-06-09T20:32:49.033" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The old Macintosh computer game &quot;Fool's Errand&quot; contained a fun game within it that used the tarot trumps.  During the adventure, at one point you'd encounter an old man and you would have to play this game against him and win.  It was especially difficult because at first you didn't know the rules! You'd have to play it over and over until you started to deduce which cards were worth points in combination with each other.  Finally you'd be able to beat him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even knowing the rules, I still think it would be a fun game for two human players:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://everything2.com/user/m_turner/writeups/Wheel+of+Fortune&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://everything2.com/user/m_turner/writeups/Wheel+of+Fortune&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16175" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T20:32:49.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31385" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31405" CreationDate="2016-06-09T22:01:00.557" Score="2" ViewCount="74" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/The_King_in_Yellow_(herald)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;King in Yellow Herald&lt;/a&gt; variant, there is a rule about increasing the terror level (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The blasphemous play &amp;quot;The King in Yellow&amp;quot; is being performed in Arkham. &lt;strong&gt;Every time the terror level increases&lt;/strong&gt;, the investigators must do one of the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: Place a yellow sign token in the space just vacated by the terror marker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B. Place a yellow sign token on the doom track as if it were a doom token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ways to reduce the terror level increase, such as the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arkhamhorrorwiki.com/Director%27s_Diary&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Director's Diary&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Discard this card &lt;strong&gt;when the terror level is increased&lt;/strong&gt; to reduce the amount by which it is being increased by 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the order of these two events? Do I place a yellow sign token first before I reduce the terror level? Or do I reduce the terror level and then not place a yellow sign token because it is staying the same?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:37:16.130" Title="Is a yellow sign marker still added if the terror level increase is reduced to 0?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-the-king-in-yellow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31378" CreationDate="2016-06-09T22:59:02.760" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deluxe Expansions and Big Box mean the same thing.  They are a larger expansion with 60 different cards (3 copies each), usually focused on providing cards for certain factions.  They are ideal to purchase if you want to make a deck for those factions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Data Packs are smaller expansions with 20 different cards (3 copies each), at a smaller price point, released more regularly.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 'cycles' that the Data packs are released in include 6 packs based around a certain theme, often synergizing with each other or making use of a new mechanic.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can check various online databases such as &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acoo.net/netrunner-cards-list/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.acoo.net/netrunner-cards-list/&lt;/a&gt; to see what cards are in each pack.  You will always get 3 copies of all of the cards in the pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T22:59:02.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28719" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:02:31.380" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The purpose of the marking is to help the players to remove the cards from the deck before playing which do not fit the player count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, many of the occupations refer to spaces on the board that are not present in lower player counts, such as &quot;Travelling Players&quot;, which is only present with 4 or more players, and thus all of its associated occupations are only relevant with 4 or more players.  The Occupation cards are marked based on number of players so that you can remove the ones that are not valid for your player count.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, Minor Improvements are valid at all player counts, so you do not need to go through and remove any of them.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Uwe Rosenberg could have designed the Minor Improvements such that you removed some of them at lower player counts (in which case those would be marked), but he did not choose to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastEditorUserId="17471" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T00:04:41.127" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T00:04:41.127" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31389" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24530" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:18:05.463" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is not much written about 9x9 Go games, but you can find a few videos about them on Youtube.  I would recommend the following series of videos 'Crazy Nines', by Go content creator xhu98:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGTqST4O93ERWgQkCroFSCg4UiOgmL4Mq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGTqST4O93ERWgQkCroFSCg4UiOgmL4Mq&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The series features Dan level amateur players discussing 9x9 strategy.  This is the best 9x9 analysis I have been able to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:18:05.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31390" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30174" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:23:04.553" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A somewhat similar game to this exists, called DVONN, in which pieces stack onto each other and then a stack can move a number of spaces equal to the number of pieces in the stack.  However, the rest of your game is different and as far as I know is not identical to any currently existing game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:23:04.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14424" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:33:38.050" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the players can interrupt the nazgul card and avoid its main effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First you must resolve the symbol in the upper left of the Nazgul card.  After that, because the main text of the Nazgul card treated as if an event tile were revealed, it can be interrupted by anything that can interrupt event tiles, such as putting on the Ring, Gandalf, etc.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this ends the scenario, then the main text of the Nazgul card never occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:33:38.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31392" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30242" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:40:28.570" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question will be very heavily dependent on your group, and their groupthink.  In my experience, often bidding 3 on the blade would not result in getting it (I would probably be 2nd or 3rd, with someoen else going all in on the sword), while a bid of 2 on the Raven would probably be enough to get me at least one star (with someone else bidding zero after going all in on the sword).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that there is a large advantage of having the Sword token, versus simply being 2nd on that track, I think your strategy of bidding enough to get the Sword makes sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a game theory perspective, since all bids are spent, you want to bid just ahead of a large clump of opponent bids, such that you gain a significant advantage over them while only paying slightly more.  If this is not possible, it might be best to bid 0 in that case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your group very consistently lets you win the sword for 3 (but not less), and consistently does not let you get stars with a bid of 2 on the Raven, then I would recommend bidding 3 on the Sword and 0 on the Raven, conserving your power, and then bidding higher on the Raven in the second bidding round.&#xA;Also, if your group tends to always bid the same amounts like this, they are very exploitable game-theory wise.  Bid either just above their usual bids, or way under them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:40:28.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31393" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29679" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:45:32.703" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that this is a problem in the base game.  I would recommend using the expansion mechanic that provides Muster orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Muster order is a special (star required) Consolidate Power order that is placed in a region with a city or stronghold, in which you have units.  If it is not destroyed by a raid, you are allowed to muster that specific location as if a Muster event card had been drawn (subject to normal supply limit), during the Consolidate Power phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This should prevent stalled out games, even in a case where you cannot draw Muster cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:45:32.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31394" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20441" CreationDate="2016-06-09T23:58:09.843" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Creating a computer simulation is probably actually the easiest way to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;User 'Big Easier' created such a program and used it to create probabilities for the starter decks, which can be found here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1258645/draw-hand-simulator-preconstructed-decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1258645/draw-hand-simulator-preconstructed-decks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He mentioned putting the code on github, but I cannot find it.  Perhaps you could send him a message and get a copy of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-09T23:58:09.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31395" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30087" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:14:53.213" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can play big 2 with more than one deck.  I would recommend two decks for 6-8 players, three decks with 9+.  (5 player is tougher, two decks is too many, one is maybe not enough, but I would err on the side on playing one deck for five players, unless you want a particularly wild game).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Higher level hands such as 5 of a kind should be allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding tied cards, there are several different rules variants of how to play the game.  Some allow it, some disallow it, and some play that playing a duplicate card causes the next player in line to be 'skipped' and lose their opportunity to play.  Experiment and figure out which way your group prefers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T00:14:53.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31396" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31406" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:30:11.663" Score="15" ViewCount="3732" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are all of the games that have ever reached the #1 rank on boardgamegeek.com's Geek Rating list?  The current #1 is Pandemic Legacy, and prior to that it was Twilight Struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T05:43:07.093" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T03:15:23.437" Title="Which games have ever been rated #1 on Boardgamegeek.com's Geek Rating?" Tags="|history|board-game-geek|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31381" CreationDate="2016-06-10T00:31:55.520" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is definitely possible, I have played with the base game plus only the Injury and Madness cards from Dunwich Horror before on at least a couple of occasions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only downside to this is a slight difficulty increase. The Dunwich Horror location cards (for both the Dunwich Horror map locations, and for the existing St. Mary's Hospital and Arkham Asylum locations) provide a small number of events that can allow an investigator to heal Injury and Madness cards. If these aren't available Injury and Madness cards become permanent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T03:17:22.700" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T03:17:22.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31398" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31401" CreationDate="2016-06-10T01:16:15.467" Score="10" ViewCount="1539" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the Superko rule in Go?  Is it used in most scoring/online systems, or only in certain ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T06:20:48.433" Title="In Go, what is the Superko rule, and is it used universally?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31399" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31396" CreationDate="2016-06-10T01:56:24.353" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you scrape &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/*/https://boardgamegeek.com/browse/boardgame&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;all the versions of the current browse page on archive.org&lt;/a&gt; (that's sorted by geek rating, right?), you get this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2009-02-05 Agricola (2007)&#xA;2010-04-07 Puerto Rico (2002)&#xA;2010-11-05 Agricola (2007)&#xA;2010-11-21 Puerto Rico (2002)&#xA;2011-01-06 Twilight Struggle (2005)&#xA;2011-01-16 Puerto Rico (2002)&#xA;2011-02-03 Twilight Struggle (2005)&#xA;2016-01-01 Pandemic Legacy: Season 1 (2015)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that those are the date archive.org scraped the page, not necessarily the exact dates the rankings changed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The page was at different urls and formats before that (and wasn't always crawlable, it looks like) and I haven't bothered scraping any of them yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T16:43:59.087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T16:43:59.087" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31398" CreationDate="2016-06-10T04:25:02.560" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two main Superko rule types, and, as long as the ruleset used isn’t Japanese, one of them should be in place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Namely they are Positional and Situational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Positional superko&lt;/strong&gt; is used in the Chinese Rules, and prohibits the repetition of a position or board state, regardless of whose turn it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Situational superko&lt;/strong&gt; is used in the AGA and BGA (American and British Go Association) rules, and prohibits the repetition of a position or board state, with the same player to play.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The variant &lt;strong&gt;Natural situational superko&lt;/strong&gt; used by the BGA only forbids repetition by the player who created the position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on superko take a look at &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Superko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Sensei’s Library&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T06:20:48.433" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T06:20:48.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31383" CreationDate="2016-06-10T05:40:51.803" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;A game with a similar mechanic is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/4174/lifeboat&quot;&gt;Lifeboat&lt;/a&gt;. In that game normally you get points if your target dies, but if your target is yourself then instead you are a &quot;psychopath&quot; and get points for &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; who dies (but fewer points in other ways).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One solution for your setup could be to put both player ID and target on a single card: &quot;You are player 1; kill player 2&quot;, &quot;You are player 2; kill player 3&quot;, through &quot;You are player n; kill player 1&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T05:40:51.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31403" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31381" CreationDate="2016-06-10T07:10:06.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's possible to houserule anything, and these cards aren't an exception.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Just have in mind that if you want to add these in using just the Dunwich Horror rules, it will decrease the game's difficulty considerably.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the core game when your Sanity or Stamina drops to 0 you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard half of your items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard half of your Clues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recover 1 Sanity or Stamina&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Dunwich Horror leaves the above possibility intact, but also gives you an option to instead:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your items&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Keep your Clues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Recover full Sanity or Stamina&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Gain an Injury or Madness card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like this, it's already a convenience.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As it's entirely a player's choice to gain the Injury/Madness card, you'll simply choose the option that's less harmful in a given situation.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While Injury and Madness cards are somewhat debilitating, in many cases it's still more desirable to gain one than to lose your clues, stuff, and time needed to heal yourself.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To balance this, there's a risk included: If you ever gain another copy of the Injury or Madness you already have, you are instantly devoured.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you only have Miskatonic Horror, you never risk gaining a second copy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;With this mitigating factor gone, Injuries and Madnessess become a more attractive option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're fine with an easier game, then you're done.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If not, you have a lot of options in front of you. We're talking about house rules after all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The easiest modification would be to remove the base game option of losing half of your possessions.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When gaining Injury/Madness is no longer a player's choice, they will more likely hit you when it hurts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may also consider a &quot;baseball&quot; variant:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;When you have three &quot;strikes&quot; (total of both Injuries and Madnesses) you are instantly devoured.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;This would be a proxy of the &quot;double copy = devoured&quot; rule.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's impossible to list all the potential variants. I'm sure you'll find something that suits your gaming group.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T07:18:06.087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T07:18:06.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31383" CreationDate="2016-06-10T08:27:16.597" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Get cards corresponding to pairs of targets and killers, and arrange the pairs so that the target card is above the corresponding killer card.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Each killer and target pair is designated by a letter&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target A - Killer A,  Target B - Killer B, Target C - Killer C, Target D - Killer D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put the pairs in unmarked envelopes.&#xA;Shuffle the envelopes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Pairs in envelopes are in parentheses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Target B - Killer B), (Target D - Killer D), (Target C - Killer C), (Target A - Killer A)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take out the cards from the envelopes and place them in a stack in random order while preserving the original order within each envelope.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Stack from top to bottom&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Target B, Killer B, Target D, Killer D,  Target C, Killer C, Target A, Killer A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move the top card of the stack to the bottom of the stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Target B moves from the top to the bottom of the stack&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Killer B, Target D, Killer D, Target C, Killer C, Target A, Killer A,  Target B&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deal out pairs of the killers and targets to each player while preserving the new order of killer card on top of the target card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g. Player card pairs in parentheses&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Killer B - Target D), (Killer D - Target C), (Killer C - Target A), (Killer A - Target B)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each player is now assigned a unique role as killer and a unique target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Inspired by a similar post from board game geek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17474" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T08:27:16.597" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31405" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31385" CreationDate="2016-06-10T13:37:16.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Using this card when the terror level is increased by 1 would effectively make it increase by 0 and prevent the requirement to place the yellow sign token.  Notice the wording of the card is to discard it when the terror level is increased to &lt;strong&gt;reduce&lt;/strong&gt; the amount increased.  If it had said something along the lines of discarding it to &lt;strong&gt;decrease&lt;/strong&gt; the terror level, then one might construe that to mean the terror level increased then decreased, but in this case it strongly implies you are cancelling the action, not subsequently reverting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T13:37:16.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31396" CreationDate="2016-06-10T15:36:33.743" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;Strangely, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BoardGameGeek#Game_rankings&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; had this information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Paths of Glory (August 19, 2001 - February 20,2002)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Tigris and Euphrates (February 20, 2002 - 2002)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Puerto Rico (2002 - August 2008)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Agricola (August 2008 - December 2010)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Twilight Struggle (January 2011 - December 2015)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Pandemic Legacy: Season 1 (January 2016 - Present).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As Jefromi's answer shows, the dates aren't quite as nicely laid out as Wikipedia shows, but these are the games that have been #1 at some point in time based on persistent user ratings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we expanded it to games that rose to #1 because of bugs or user coordination, three more games are added: (1) The Game of Life, (2) Monkey Auto Races, and (3) Die Macher. The specific reasons for each are described on the Wikipedia page.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The games that have hit #1 are also listed on BGG in one of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/75946/history-boardgamegeek-completely-useless-statistic&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Completely Useless Statistics threads&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of December 29th, 2017, Gloomhaven is the #1 rated board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2018-01-27T03:15:23.437" LastActivityDate="2018-01-27T03:15:23.437" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31408" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30105" CreationDate="2016-06-10T17:40:43.773" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, zone spells effect everything in the zone, including Mages, both yours and your opponent's.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Academy, there is only one zone, so the spell effects everything in play, unless the spell states that it does not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two possible strategic uses could be if you were way behind in creatures, so if will effect more opposing creatures than your own, or as a way to help finish off your opponent's mage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T17:40:43.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31409" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31425" CreationDate="2016-06-10T18:28:33.863" Score="10" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I often see the following three stone corner enclosure made in high level games, when the player wants to further secure his corner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFp7d.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xFp7d.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This enclosure does not appear on the sensei's library page for 3-3 invasions:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?AllAbout33PointInvasion%2FDiagrams&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?AllAbout33PointInvasion%2FDiagrams&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does any aji remain for white to invade this position in some way?  If so, what is the best way to invade it, and what is the expected result?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T13:17:17.320" Title="In Go, is there any aji left in this corner enclosure (3-5, 4-4, 6-3), and if so, how can it be invaded?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31410" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30205" CreationDate="2016-06-10T19:53:29.707" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The big problem I see right off the bat is that just counting the two card hands wouldn't give you an understanding of the cards left in the shoe, it would be too imprecise:&#xA;Here's the 2 card hands you could (ever) possibly stand on:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;12 (vs some dealer up cards)&#xA;13 (vs some dealer up cards)&#xA;14 (vs some dealer up cards)&#xA;15 (vs some dealer up cards)&#xA;16 (vs some dealer up cards)&#xA;17 (vs any)&#xA;18 (vs any&#xA;19 (vs any)&#xA;20 (vs any)&#xA;21 (vs any)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;for a 12 the combo of cards is&#xA;10+2, 9+3, 8+4, 7+5, 6+6.  So one hand with a +0 count, and 3 hands with a +1 and one hand with a +2 all on top of the fact that the dealer would have a bust card (3-6) face up in any instance that a player would stand on a 12, so if people stand on a lot of 12s, the deck is getting heavier, or good for the player.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a 20 however, the combo is &#xA;A+9 or 10+10  one hand at a -1 or one hand at -2.  both make the deck lighter or negative for the bettor.  So if people are standing on a lot of 20s then the deck is generally getting lighter or worse for the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, there's a marked difference from one two card hand to another, so in order for this system to have any chance at all, you'd actually have to remember how many 12's stand, how many 13's stand etc. And it's not going to be as accurate as a hi-lo count, because sometimes in every hand the deck isn't actually getting better or worse.  Consider an A+9 vs a dealer up card of 5.  That's a net zero change in weight.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point I'd say the Hi-lo count is better because it's simpler.  A simple system that gives you an edge is all you ever need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17481" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T19:53:29.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31411" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-10T21:28:21.030" Score="0" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;A little while ago I was playing two of my friends. One of my friends was playing a wolf/werewolf deck with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Immerwolf&quot;&gt;Immerwolf&lt;/a&gt; and a few other creatures out on the battlefield.  I was playing an enchantment deck and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Path%20To%20Exile&quot;&gt;Path To Exile&lt;/a&gt; on the Immerwolf. Once the spell resolved my friend didn't remove the +1/+1 from his other creatures (from Immerwolf's ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I reasoned that since they weren't actual +1/+1 counters, they would no longer affect his creatures, since Immerwolf was in exile.  He disagreed, saying that the +1/+1 would stay, whether or not Immerwolf was in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't really feel like pushing the issue since it was just a kitchen table game and it also didn't really affect the outcome of the game.  I'm just curious as to who was correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17483" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-06-10T21:44:11.210" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T21:44:11.210" Title="Does Immerwolf's bonus stay after it leaves the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-06-11T03:15:20.250" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31412" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31411" CreationDate="2016-06-10T21:41:59.247" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Immerwolf's ability only gives other creatures +1/+1 while Immerwolf is on the battlefield.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Immerwolf's ability is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Static_ability&quot;&gt;static ability&lt;/a&gt; that creates a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot;&gt;continuous effect&lt;/a&gt;. The specific rules that covers this scenario are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3.&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect may be generated by the static ability of an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3a&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t “locked in”; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3b&lt;/strong&gt; The effect applies &lt;strong&gt;at all times that the permanent generating it is on the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt; or the object generating it is in the appropriate zone.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As soon as Immerwolf leaves the battlefield, the ability stops existing. Since it isn't &quot;locked in&quot; to those specific creatures that it was affecting, those creatures lose the power and toughness bonus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T21:41:59.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31413" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31414" CreationDate="2016-06-10T21:55:48.357" Score="2" ViewCount="1451" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have this card called &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Militia%27s%20Pride&quot;&gt;Militia&amp;#39;s Pride&lt;/a&gt; which lets me summon 1/1 creature token onto the battlefield. My question is: if Militia's Pride is sent to the graveyard, do my 1/1 tokens stay or are they removed from the battlefield as well?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17484" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-11T02:57:32.657" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T02:57:32.657" Title="Do creature tokens get removed along with the permanent that created them?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31413" CreationDate="2016-06-10T23:13:16.500" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The tokens will stay.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A token is simply a new &lt;em&gt;object&lt;/em&gt;. Unless explicitly stated otherwise, it does not matter what spell or effect created it, and there is no connection. Consider also that, strictly speaking, the Militia's Pride did not create the token, but its triggered ability did.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;110.1. A permanent is a card or token on the battlefield. A permanent remains on the battlefield indefinitely. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course that doesn't mean that permanents are indestructible or anything like that. It only says that permanents don't leave the battlefield on their own. It means that an effect or rule is required to make a token die (in fact, it takes an effect or a rule for &lt;em&gt;anything&lt;/em&gt; to happen in the game), so since Militia's Pride does not say anything about what happens to the tokens it created when the Pride dies, nothing will happen to those tokens. There is also no rule to that effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-06-10T23:13:16.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31415" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31416" CreationDate="2016-06-11T06:13:35.397" Score="3" ViewCount="408" Body="&lt;p&gt;Page 6 of the reference guide says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bless, Curse, Bank Loan, and Retainer cards do not require an upkeep roll during the first Upkeep Phase after an investigator acquires them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean we skip the Upkeep instructions entirely or merely skip the roll portion?  Essentially, upon obtaining the card, do we benefit from gaining $2 without needing to roll to see if we discard the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T07:00:40.773" Title="Does the Retainer card grant $2 on the first Upkeep phase?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31416" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31415" CreationDate="2016-06-11T07:00:40.773" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means you merely skip the roll (you do not skip all upkeep instructions)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;It's like a salary. You usually get them through encounters. Darrell Simmons and Rita Young also start with one.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/397466/retainers&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/397466/retainers&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;If you have a copy of a &quot;special&quot; card, i.e. Retainer, Blessing, or Curse, and you receive another one, it replaces the first copy. This effectively means you will not roll during the next Upkeep to see if you lose the new copy (the old copy has already been replaced and lost).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/50931-two-retainers/&quot;&gt;https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/50931-two-retainers/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17487" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T07:00:40.773" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31418" CreationDate="2016-06-11T23:44:25.683" Score="8" ViewCount="4340" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Settlers of Catan (base game or the 5-6 player expansion). &lt;strong&gt;Can we build after  rolling a seven.?&lt;/strong&gt;  As per the FAQ here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faqs/93?page=3&quot;&gt;http://www.catan.com/faqs/93?page=3&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know I can't trade with others and can play any one development card, but what about Maritime trade?.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I was confused because on the same above mentioned FAQ page it said : You can continue with your normal turn after rolling a 7.&lt;/strong&gt; If you can't trade with other what is this &quot;Normal&quot; here. Please help on this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17492" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T11:56:04.387" Title="Settlers of Catan : &quot;Can we build after rolling a 7&quot;" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31417" CreationDate="2016-06-11T23:51:43.873" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can do anything after roling a 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't get any new resources. If you have too much, you must return some. And you can move the robber.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-06-11T23:51:43.873" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31420" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-12T05:45:25.480" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; is a comprehensive crowdsourced online catalogue of the products in the world of board games, combined with forums, reviews, and other community features.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T05:45:25.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T05:45:25.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31421" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-12T05:45:25.480" Score="0" Body="a comprehensive crowdsourced online catalogue of the products in the world of board games, combined with forums, reviews, and other community features." OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-12T05:45:25.480" LastActivityDate="2016-06-12T05:45:25.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31417" CreationDate="2016-06-12T09:01:10.443" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;To quote the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/faq/4645-seven-and-robber-after-rolling-7-can-i-still-trade-another-player-or-blackmail-him-moving&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; After rolling a “7,” can I still trade with another player or blackmail him before moving the robber?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Trading: No. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is to prevent players from using a trade to save themselves from the robber. After moving the robber, you can do whatever you want: build, trade, play development cards... just like any other turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10113" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T11:08:15.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31423" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31475" CreationDate="2016-06-12T14:56:56.863" Score="2" ViewCount="6482" Body="&lt;p&gt;I understand that &lt;strong&gt;Aces&lt;/strong&gt; are worth either &lt;strong&gt;1 Point&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;11 Points&lt;/strong&gt;, depending on the player's will. But how are multiple Aces valued? Here are some examples:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ace, Nine, Ace&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this always x+9+x, where:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 1:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x = 1 or x = 11;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(This hand would always be 11 or 31)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Or can this be x+10+y, where:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Case 2:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;x = 1 or x = 11;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;y = 1 or y = 11&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(This hand can be 11, 21, 21 or 31)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17498" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T10:55:34.757" Title="Can different Aces have different values?" Tags="|scoring|blackjack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31424" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31426" CreationDate="2016-06-12T19:40:51.327" Score="4" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Ally Sir William Brinton say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard to immediately restore your Stamina to its maximum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I choose to do this after I've learned I need to lose Stamina, but before I actually deduct that stamina? While the card lets me immediately restore Stamina, it sounds like it shouldn't be used to interrupt something that seems to happen immediately. For instance if a location card I read says &quot;Lose 2 stamina&quot; I would think you cannot use Brinton to heal first, then apply the loss. If it says to do a Fight check and lose 2 stamina if I fail, I would think the same restriction holds. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T01:11:18.083" Title="Can I use Sir William Brinton's ability immediately after discovering I have to lose Stamina?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31409" CreationDate="2016-06-12T22:39:13.267" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the addition of the P17 stone, the enclosure is considered safe. The standard response to white R17 is black R16. R17 is a probe rather than an attempt to live, and in practice black's best answer will depend on the surrounding stones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See these two links for more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?443563Enclosure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?443563Enclosure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?4435Enclosure&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://senseis.xmp.net/?4435Enclosure&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even without the presence of the P17 stone, &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?4463Enclosure33Invasion&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the best white can get locally is a ko&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;a href=&quot;http://eidogo.com/#search:ne:7x6:.15x.8x.7x.9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;search this pattern on eidogo.com&lt;/a&gt;, you'll see that this enclosure usually ends up as black territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="14604" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T13:17:17.320" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T13:17:17.320" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31424" CreationDate="2016-06-13T01:11:18.083" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use powers like that before drawing the encounter, or after resolving it (if you are not yet unconscious/insane), but you cannot use it during the resolution of an encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/9b/2a/9b2a9f8f-0b42-45ba-bcd2-87dc55c68f5f/complete_arkham_horror_faq.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (page 14):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; When can a character perform actions during a phase?&#xA;  For example, if a player with the ally Duke (“discard to&#xA;  immediately restore your Sanity to its maximum”) draws&#xA;  an encounter and has to roll a die and lose that much&#xA;  Sanity, when can he discard Duke to restore Sanity: not at&#xA;  all once the encounter card is drawn, before the roll, or&#xA;  after the roll?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; He may discard Duke after the roll, provided he&#xA;  has not been driven insane. Actions can be performed&#xA;  at any time during their listed phase as long as any given&#xA;  conditions are met. However, once an encounter is drawn,&#xA;  it must be resolved before any more actions can be performed.&#xA;  So, in the case of Duke, you can use him before&#xA;  or after drawing an encounter card, but if you draw the&#xA;  encounter card and it inflicts Sanity loss that reduces you&#xA;  to 0 Sanity, you go insane before you can use Duke. Flesh&#xA;  Ward is one exception to this rule because it prevents a&#xA;  Stamina loss and is intended to be used in response to such&#xA;  events. The Premonition Spell [CotDP] is another exception.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T01:11:18.083" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31423" CreationDate="2016-06-13T01:33:22.897" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off Ace value is either 1 or 11 (this is why face+ace is a blackjack)&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blackjack&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second you choose what it is worth, but most places will assume you want 11 unless it will bust you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your hand you can choose between 12,22,22,32&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3270" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T01:33:22.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31428" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-13T02:17:17.463" Score="1" ViewCount="67" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering what the best method of storing Eldritch Horror including all the expansions that also allows for a faster set-up time. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5777" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-06-13T04:59:32.943" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T04:59:32.943" Title="What's the best way to store Eldritch Horror with all the expansions" Tags="|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-06-15T00:20:12.377" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31434" CreationDate="2016-06-13T10:02:42.603" Score="4" ViewCount="1223" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Jump&lt;/strong&gt; skill states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Survivor can use this Skill once during each Activation. The Survivor spends one Action: He moves two Zones into a Zone to which he has Line of Sight. Movement related Skills (like +1 Zone per Move Action or Slippery) are ignored, but Movement penalties (like having Zombies in the starting&#xA;  Zone) apply. Ignore everything in the intervening Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An interesting tactic is to be able to jump into/out of towers. Is this legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorDisplayName="user10232" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T08:41:31.503" LastActivityDate="2021-03-08T12:39:13.697" Title="Can survivors with the jump skill jump into/off towers in Zombicide: Black Plague - Wulfsburg Expansion?" Tags="|zombicide|zombicide-black-plague|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29731" CreationDate="2016-06-13T13:40:52.187" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, removing the timer makes the game significantly easier, almost trivially so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why? Because the timer reduces the amount of information the board can yield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, without the timer the marine player can count squares to determine whether it is useful to spend actions putting marines on overwatch/guard. Without the timer, actions are used much more efficiently to achieve the mission objectives and win. With the timer the marine player can be bottled up much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T13:40:52.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31431" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31432" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:17:04.343" Score="4" ViewCount="1197" Body="&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Coalition%20Honor%20Guard&quot;&gt;Coalition Honor Guard&lt;/a&gt; was card of the day on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/node/314795&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;DailyMTG&lt;/a&gt; the other day, it got me thinking. If you gave it hexproof, through whatever means you choose e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Swiftfoot%20Boots&quot;&gt;Swiftfoot Boots&lt;/a&gt;, would my opponent be unable to play spells that target a single creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T22:39:11.850" Title="Coalition Honor Guard and Hexproof" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31431" CreationDate="2016-06-13T14:21:47.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent can still cast spells.  As the last part of Coalition Honor Guard's text says (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;your opponents must choose at least one Flagbearer on the battlefield&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;if able.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If they can't target a flagbearer (because of, say hexproof or a restriction on the spell, ie. &quot;target green creature&quot; and all flagbearers are white), you don't have to obey the rest of that text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7948" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T14:21:47.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31434" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31429" CreationDate="2016-06-13T22:57:30.923" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't use jump to move into/out of a tower, as the towers are surrounded by ramparts which specifically block movement.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://cmon.com/resources/ZBP_Wulfsburg_Rules_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wulfsburg rules&lt;/a&gt; (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tower tiles feature both building and street Zones, bordered&#xA;  by &lt;strong&gt;ramparts&lt;/strong&gt; ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Ramparts can’t be crossed but don’t block Lines of Sight.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-13T22:57:30.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31435" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-14T02:41:14.960" Score="3" ViewCount="4697" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the monster turn -- if I have several zombies (as an example), can they each attack on the turn? So, I move one zombie and attack someone, and then I move another and attack someone else? Until I have moved and/or attacked with each zombie? Just want to make sure we are understanding the definition of &quot;turn&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17502" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T14:33:45.353" Title="Betrayal at House on the Hill -- what counts as a turn for attacks?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31435" CreationDate="2016-06-14T03:00:33.223" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Traitor always gets to move and attack with each monster, separately, after they have finished their own turn (unless a Haunt-specific rule tells you otherwise, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/rules/betrayal_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;second edition rulebook&lt;/a&gt; (page 17, or page 12 if you are cross-referencing the first edition rulebook):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After you finish your turn, you move and attack with all of the monsters, if any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T03:00:33.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31437" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31438" CreationDate="2016-06-14T10:51:27.383" Score="0" ViewCount="2096" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am building a commander deck for my little brother with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Teysa%2C%20Orzhov%20Scion&quot;&gt;Teysa, Orzhov Scion&lt;/a&gt; as commander and I noticed that Teysa + &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Painter%27s%20Servant&quot;&gt;Painter&amp;#39;s Servant&lt;/a&gt; is a nice combo, but Painter's servant is expensive and I believe not even legal in commander. I really liked this interaction though, so I was wondering if there is another card I could use as a replacement (that's not too expensive).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combo in question being the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have Painter's Servant replacement named black&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have 3 white creature (tokens) to sacrifice&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use Teysa's activated ability to exile a creature&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teysa's second ability triggers on each of the tokens dying, generating 3 new tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Repeat the process until you opponents have nothing left&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15531" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-02-09T16:54:12.780" LastActivityDate="2022-02-09T16:54:12.780" Title="Teysa + Painter's servant replacement" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31437" CreationDate="2016-06-14T11:05:05.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, there is no such replacement for Painter's Servant.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some permanent cards that change the colors of all creatures, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Shifting%20Sky&quot;&gt;Shifting Sky&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Darkest%20Hour&quot;&gt;Darkest Hour&lt;/a&gt;, but none of them add colors to creatures, they all replace them with a single color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sleight%20of%20Mind&quot;&gt;Sleight of Mind&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=+%5B%22Change%20the%20text%20of%22%5D+%5Bcolor%5D%7C%7Ctext=+%5B%22Change%20the%20text%20of%22%5D+%5Bcolor%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;similar cards&lt;/a&gt; you could replace all of occurences of &amp;quot;black&amp;quot; on Teysa with &amp;quot;white&amp;quot; or vice versa. That would allow that specific Teysa to do the combo with any 3 white (or black) creatures. However, with all such cards being blue, they would be outside of your commander's color identity and thus not legal for a Commander deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For future reference, under &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com&lt;/a&gt; you will find the Oracle database, the official and searchable MtG card database.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-06-14T13:59:55.807" LastActivityDate="2016-06-14T13:59:55.807" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31439" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31903" CreationDate="2016-06-14T21:29:15.417" Score="5" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;So in a game of 'Mine a Million' aka 'The Business Game' the production card came up with Earthquake at Newport. The card's description officially says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Warehouse stocks belonging to all players are lost &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, if stock is kept inside a barge at the barge dock (or a ship in the ship berth) does that make it safe from the earthquake as technically the goods aren't in the warehouse?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="397" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T02:12:36.777" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T15:59:40.910" Title="Earthquake - does it affect units in docks?" Tags="|the-business-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31440" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31468" CreationDate="2016-06-14T21:35:58.483" Score="10" ViewCount="2466" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are there examples of expert-level games where the King is used as an attacking piece early in the game?  I.e. brought out into the center of the board behind the bishops, pawns and knights, to gain a superiority of attacking force over the opponent?  Certainly there would be great risks in doing this: the opponent can check you any time he wants - but do you think, if handled with care and expertise, this strategy could work?  As another example, maybe developing the King would become desirable if a player loses his ability to castle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16175" LastActivityDate="2017-12-23T16:46:29.017" Title="Using the King as an attacking piece" Tags="|chess|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31441" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-15T02:32:20.473" Score="1" ViewCount="1221" Body="&lt;p&gt;A friend of mine said that he was playing a game of magic when he went to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Suspension%20Field&quot;&gt;Suspension Field&lt;/a&gt; on his opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Keranos%2C%20God%20of%20Storms&quot;&gt;Keranos, God of Storms&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keranos had enough devotion to be a creature at the time Suspension Field was cast, but in response to Suspension Field his opponent destroyed one of his own creatures to reduce his devotion and reverted Keranos to just an enchantment again, claiming to make Suspension Field fizzle on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does devotion change at instant speed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17512" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T06:28:05.343" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T15:35:11.460" Title="When does Devotion change &amp; when does a god's type change?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31443" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31446" CreationDate="2016-06-15T03:11:20.410" Score="0" ViewCount="670" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have the original Ascension box with wooden separators (pictured below), what makes for a nice, long lasting storage for cards - I would say, a lot of them, as the separators seem quite empty holding only the original game cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to buy a couple of expansions when travelling abroad, and given the original box and separators, I'm thinking about getting rid of the boxes and bringing home only the cards and manuals - this way I can bring more stuff with me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this idea reasonable? Are there reasons to keep the other boxes (besides, maybe, space for several expansions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYkq7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GYkq7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastEditorUserId="17509" LastEditDate="2016-09-05T16:46:25.137" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T16:00:56.633" Title="Do I need to keep the Ascension expansion boxes as I have the original one?" Tags="|expansions|storage|ascension|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31444" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31441" CreationDate="2016-06-15T03:22:50.017" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Devotion is continuously kept up to date based on the current board state. It &lt;em&gt;will&lt;/em&gt; be kept up to date between two spells on the stack resolving. (I wouldn't even call that &amp;quot;instant speed&amp;quot;, which is more appropriate for describing things that go on the stack. You just keep it up to date continuously.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Devotion ability of gods —&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As long as your devotion to {color/s} is less than {five/seven}, ~ isn't a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Static_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;static ability&lt;/a&gt; that creates a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Continuous_effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;continuous effect&lt;/a&gt;, and as the rules on continuous effects say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3.&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect may be generated by the static ability of an object.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;611.3a&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability isn’t “locked in”; it applies at any given moment to whatever its text indicates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;very moment&lt;/em&gt; a permanent that contributes to devotion enters or leaves your battlefield, your devotion is changed, and your gods on the battlefield&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; may become creatures or cease to be creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that if a spell or ability that says &amp;quot;target creature&amp;quot; is cast targeting only Keranos, and someone pulls this maneuver to de-creature-ify him, he will almost certainly not be a valid target at resolution time and the spell will fizzle. The same goes for other gods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your scenario itself is a little more complex. Suspension Field is not an instant or sorcery; it's an enchantment with an enters-the-battlefield ability. You don't choose targets while Suspension Field is on the stack — you just let it resolve. &lt;em&gt;Then its ability triggers,&lt;/em&gt; and you choose targets for &lt;em&gt;that.&lt;/em&gt; This maneuver would cause that ability to fizzle, then the Suspension Field would be left sitting uselessly on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instants and sorceries though: an instant or sorcery like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Burn%20from%20Within&quot;&gt;Burn from Within&lt;/a&gt; would lose its only valid target and fizzle. However &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Radiant%20Purge&quot;&gt;Radiant Purge&lt;/a&gt; would still resolve fully and exile Keranos, because he still meets the targeting criteria (he's a multicolored enchantment).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1: Since this static ability is not a &lt;em&gt;characteristic defining ability&lt;/em&gt;, it only functions on the battlefield. Gods who aren't on the battlefield are always legendary enchantment creatures.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-15T14:26:46.653" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T14:26:46.653" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31445" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31440" CreationDate="2016-06-15T03:57:34.627" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bad idea in the early game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You already mentioned the greatest issue.  Your king is open to attack.  Not only attack but it makes it easier to land absolute pins, forks, and skewers which will cost pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we could keep it safe, it's not useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The king cannot directly attack a piece.  It needs to spend two moves, one to get aside a piece and a second to capture it.  The piece would just move away or get supported.  Sure, the king could support another piece, but a pawn could likely do that role just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T03:57:34.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31443" CreationDate="2016-06-15T05:55:58.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like that version of Ascension has the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thebrokentoken.com/ascended-organizer/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Broken Token Box Organizer&lt;/a&gt; (or similar) included, which should allow for most, if not all, of the expansions to fit into the one box.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game normally comes with an insert that looks a &lt;a href=&quot;https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic773006_lg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;little different&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As such you would not need to keep the additional expansion boxes if you have no desire to resell the game, or display the boxes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T05:55:58.687" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8123" CreationDate="2016-06-15T07:26:46.393" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I assume that by &quot;4th edition&quot; you mean &quot;revised 4th edition&quot; as it's the most recent version and differs substantially from its non-revised predecessor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Talisman was always a very random game with many effects depending on the die roll.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;To somewhat counteract this, revised 4th edition introduced the Fate stat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Spending a Fate point allows you to reroll 1 die, giving players some amount of control over the fate of their character.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In my opinion, this is the most important difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many small changes address the balance issues from previous editions.*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Last but not least, the game finally** is more formalized.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For example, in the 2nd edition an effect might refer to a weapon, and the players needed to figure out on their own, whether a given piece of equipment is a weapon or not.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In the most recent edition if an item is a Weapon it is explicitly stated on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*although 4th edition has it's own brand-new balance problems.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;**to be honest, this might be already the case in the 3rd edition - my knowledge about that version is very small&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T07:26:46.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11949" CreationDate="2016-06-15T14:22:20.537" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not a common house rule and it does affect the balance of the game (such as there is a thing of balance in the game. By limiting you to 9 the game gives you a base level chance of defeating a monster. If you start allowing higher levels it makes you unfairly strong enough to defeat the terminal monster.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Alice is at level 19 and Bob is at level 9 and they both need to defeat one monster to win. Alice is at an unfair advantage. If however both need to get to level 19 before the terminal kill  then it's more fair. Munchkin is a fairly unbalanced game already but this particular home rule doesn't help. In the first scenario it's much easier for Bob to lose his next monster and fall back to level 8 whereas Alice loses her next monster and falls to 18 and still has only to fight a single other monster for victory whereas Bob needs to defeat two monsters. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can set the victory level to whatever number you see fit as a house rule but allowing people to use, for instance, level up cards, or sell items beyond that victory point will unbalance a game that's precious already.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T14:22:20.537" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31449" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31435" CreationDate="2016-06-15T14:33:45.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After the Haunt there are three turn phases&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Player Turns&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this phase every player gets their turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Traitor Turn&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this phase the traitor gets a turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Monster Turns&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this phase if the traitor controls monsters that get to move such as minions or what ever they each get their turn here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T14:33:45.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20302" CreationDate="2016-06-15T18:46:14.030" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qPr6.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qPr6.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;PoTo Life Counter and Creature token&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Most counters and methods use dice or cards to represent that there is a token, or that it has counters on it. But there is only one product I've found that displays power/toughness and can double as a tappable creature token on its own.  It's from Jace's Toy Chest. Only place i've found them is on Etsy and ebay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17518" LastActivityDate="2016-06-15T18:46:14.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31454" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31455" CreationDate="2016-06-16T04:33:53.397" Score="2" ViewCount="266" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have 2 rolls for my skill check, and I fail the roll, then I spend a clue token to roll, and I fail. I then spend a second clue and again fail. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I now use the Lucky Cigarette Case  which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard Lucky Cigarette Case to re-roll any one skill check. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I roll the original 2 dice only, or have I increased my re-roll pool to 4 dice (by including the additional dice from spending 2 clues)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T05:38:26.133" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T05:38:26.133" Title="Do skill check re-rolls include dice gained from spending clue tokens?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31454" CreationDate="2016-06-16T05:33:23.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reroll all 4 dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's important to do things in the right order though.  Using the cigarette case and then clues results in fewer total rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is clarified in the FAQ contained within the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Arkham_Horror/DH_rules_english.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dunwich Horror rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; How does a re-roll work? Can you re-roll only the&#xA;  skill dice that you have before spending Clue tokens, or&#xA;  can you re-roll all the dice you’ve rolled on a given&#xA;  check, including the extra dice gained from spending&#xA;  Clue tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; You re-roll all the dice you’ve rolled for the skill&#xA;  check so far, so you can re-roll dice gained from spending&#xA;  Clue tokens as long as you spend your Clue tokens&#xA;  before using your re-roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T05:33:23.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31456" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24344" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:20:58.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;del&gt;may cast and exhaust to&lt;/del&gt; &lt;strong&gt;gain +1 to all skill checks&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;del&gt;for the rest of this turn&lt;/del&gt;&lt;strong&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:20:58.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31457" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24196" CreationDate="2016-06-16T08:29:03.440" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;make a table called input-output and rule and ask your kids to grab a deck of cards and only pick out the ace,the 2,3,4 the rule is to double each number, for example, double 12 = 24.start with the bottom &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17519" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T08:29:03.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31458" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:06:25.797" Score="1" ViewCount="73" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Mystique Main Character has the following Level Up Power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bitter Fury&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Level Up (10)&lt;/strong&gt; - Whenever Mystique gains ATK, she gains that much XP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.upperdeck.com/OP/RuleBooks/Vs_System_2PCG_Rules-The_Marvel_Battles.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; have this to say about +1/+1 counters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many effects put +1/+1 of -1/-1 counters on characters. These numbers alter a character's ATK and DEF until something removes the counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does adding a +1/+1 counter to Mystique cause her to &amp;quot;gain attack,&amp;quot; which  triggers her Level Up Power?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:32:30.510" Title="Does adding a +1/+1 counter count as &quot;gaining attack?&quot;" Tags="|vs-2pcg|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31458" CreationDate="2016-06-16T13:32:30.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ at &lt;a href=&quot;http://vssystem2pcg.altervista.org/faq/faq-eng/?doing_wp_cron=1466083564.2965559959411621093750&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;VsSystem2PCG.AlterVista.org&lt;/a&gt;, regarding Mystique's Bitter Fury:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does adding counters count as her gaining ATK? What about Trickster God switching her ATK/DEF, would she gain 5 xp as she turns into a 6/1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Answer&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes and Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13572" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T13:32:30.510" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31460" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T14:28:51.857" Score="2" ViewCount="608" Body="&lt;p&gt;I got quite confused on what exactly happens in this situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent is attacking, he does so with three (3/3) creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I declare blockers, which would be two unimportant (1/1) Slivers and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Might%20Sliver&quot;&gt;Might Sliver&lt;/a&gt; (2/2). The Might Sliver has a static ability: &amp;quot;All Slivers get +2/+2&amp;quot;, so in fact I have two (3/3)'s and one (4/4) creature to block with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, after the blockers are declared and before the damage is dealt, the opponent destroys the Might Sliver with an instant (Murder), will my Slivers retain the +2/+2 bonus until damage is dealt, so I would lose three creatures, while he loses two, or is it lost and my defense crumbles and my defenders are all killed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17520" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T14:36:09.673" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T14:38:06.197" Title="Does killing Might Sliver before damage affect other slivers' power and toughness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-06-16T21:36:26.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31461" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31460" CreationDate="2016-06-16T14:31:27.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability from Might Sliver is a static ability: it functions as long as Might Sliver is on the battlefield.  When the sliver leaves the battlefield (dies in this case), its ability also goes with it.  Your other creatures loose the power/toughness increase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the time that your opponent played the instant, it was still in the Declare Blockers step.  During that step, you declare blockers, then both players have a chance to play instants before combat damage. Once your Might Sliver is dead, your other Slivers are 1/1 when you choose to move to damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;604.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Static abilities create continuous effects, some of which are prevention effects or replacement effects. These effects are active as long as the permanent with the ability remains on the battlefield and has the ability, or as long as the object with the ability remains in the appropriate zone, as described in rule 112.6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T14:38:06.197" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T14:38:06.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31462" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31463" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:29:39.013" Score="3" ViewCount="1610" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Thing%20in%20the%20Ice&quot;&gt;Thing in the Ice&lt;/a&gt; with 4 ice counters on it and played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Fate%20Transfer&quot;&gt;Fate Transfer&lt;/a&gt; to move all these counters on to another creature, will it transform? Or is the check on how many counters it has done before the actual move of all the counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17521" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T18:42:46.667" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T03:54:26.510" Title="Can I use Fate Transfer to make a Thing in the Ice transform immediately?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31462" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:48:26.063" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;End result: Thing in the Ice with no counters, unflipped; another creature has 3 ice counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence of events creates the following stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thing in the Ice Trigger&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fate Transfer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The trigger is on top of the transfer since it is in response to the spell. Trigger resolves, removes 1 counter, sees that there are 3 counters left and doesn't flip. Transfer resolves, and moves the counters.  Since the trigger is already resolved, it doesn't flip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The next time you cast an instant or sorcery, the trigger will (attempt to) remove a counter, then seeing no counters will flip. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:48:26.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31462" CreationDate="2016-06-16T18:54:03.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it will not work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thing in the Ice transforms from its triggered ability. The following will happen when you cast Fate Transfer as you described (assuming each player passes priority and no other effects happen):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fate Transfer is cast, targets are chosen, and it goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based actions are checked (creatures at zero toughness die, players with zero life lose the game unless an effect prevents it, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggered abilities go on the stack in APNAP (active player, non-active player) order&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thing in the Ice has a triggered ability as just described. This ability goes on the stack on top of the Fate Transfer you just cast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players receive priority in APNAP order. If all players pass priority, the effect on top of the stack resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The triggered ability from Thing in the Ice will resolve first because it is on top of the stack. You remove an Ice counter, if there are no more ice counters on Thing in the Ice then it will transform. In this case you remove 1 Ice counter, leaving 3. There are more than zero Ice counters left so Thing in the Ice does not transform.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based actions are checked again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players again receive priority in APNAP order. If all players pass priority, the effect on top of the stack resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fate Transfer resolves and will move the remaining 3 counters from Thing in the Ice to the other creature you targeted (again assuming no other effects) leaving zero Ice counters on Thing in the Ice. However, it will not transform because nothing is telling it to (its triggered ability which checks if it should transform already resolved)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you cast another instant or sorcery spell after Fate Transfer resolves, Thing in the Ice will flip because its ability that causes it to flip will trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="13272" LastEditDate="2016-06-16T18:59:14.240" LastActivityDate="2016-06-16T18:59:14.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31440" CreationDate="2016-06-16T20:24:54.813" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was one very famous game, &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1130839&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Spielmann vs. Tartakower&lt;/a&gt;, where Black kept his king in the center instead of castling, moved it forward on the 15th move, and again on the 21st move to reinforce his other pieces. Note, however, that these moves were made in the middle game, and not the opening.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game is actually unusual, because as another poster pointed out, it's not usually a good idea to move the king too far forward early in the game. That's because the king is a likely target, and a liability to his own pieces when there are many of them on the board. For instance, the other side can often attack a king and fellow pieces through forks and &quot;skewers,&quot; and also pin pieces against a king.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason why Black's maneuver worked was because all the minor pieces (Bishops and Knights) had been exchanged, and both sides were &quot;short handed&quot; in the center and kingside. In effect, Black's king was an &quot;extra&quot; piece. It traveled with a protective screen of pawns, and Black secured the king further by offering White chances to exchange the heavy pieces. (White declined and lost important ground.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But this kind of maneuver goes against the logic of most games. One test of this was that I had to go back almost 100 years to find a suitable game to answer your question And although Tartakower (Black) was an international grandmaster, he was considered a bit &quot;unconventional.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T21:28:13.263" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T21:28:13.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31466" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-16T23:20:15.397" Score="0" ViewCount="673" Body="&lt;p&gt;If i play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Krark-Clan%20Ironworks&quot;&gt;Krark-Clan Ironworks&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Welding%20Jar&quot;&gt;Welding Jar&lt;/a&gt;, can I sacrifice the Jar to activate the Ironworks, and then use its ability to regenerate itself? If so, this process could be repeated infinitely, to generate an infinite amount of mana?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17525" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:39:45.070" Title="Can i get infinite mana from Krark-Clan Ironworks and Welding Jar?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31467" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31466" CreationDate="2016-06-16T23:36:51.477" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, for several reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Regeneration doesn't prevent sacrifice. Only death due to damage or a &amp;quot;destroy&amp;quot; effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a quote from &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_MTGM11_Rulebook_LR_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the MTG basic rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sacrifice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To  choose  one  of  your  permanents  on  the  battlefield&#xA;and  put  it  into  its  owner’s  graveyard.  You  can  sacrifice&#xA;only  permanents  you  control.  Sacrificing  a  permanent&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;is different from destroying it, so the permanent can’t be&#xA;regenerated. You can sacrifice a permanent only if a spell&#xA;or ability tells you to, or if it’s part of a cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Timing. I know what you're thinking here: triggered and activated abilities (except mana abilities) use the stack. But their costs (the stuff before the &amp;quot;:&amp;quot;) are paid when you put the ability on the stack, not when you resolve the ability. So sacrificing the Welding Jar to the Ironworks or to itself isn't something you can interrupt or preempt in any way. (Though an existing replacement effect, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rest%20in%20Peace&quot;&gt;Rest in Peace&lt;/a&gt;, might change what happens.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, there is no way to &amp;quot;respond&amp;quot; to the sacrifice after you've initiated it. Nor can you sacrifice the Jar to activate two different abilities at the same time, since each cost must be paid in full independently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(If you'd like a rules reference, look at page 9 of the basic rules: to cast a spell or activate an ability, you pay the costs, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; put it on the stack, allowing for responses.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2016-06-17T01:39:45.070" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T01:39:45.070" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31468" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31440" CreationDate="2016-06-17T07:38:15.150" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; rare. Such a attack with the king in the middlegame (forget about the opening) is known as a &quot;king walk&quot;, or a &quot;winning king walk&quot; if it wins. There has been a lot of discussion on this in the past in Dutch, so searching for &quot;winnende wandelkoning&quot; gives some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most famous example is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.chessgames.com/perl/chessgame?gid=1124533&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Short - Timman, Tilburg 1991&lt;/a&gt;. Black was so paralyzed that white could just walk his king up the board to help the queen with giving checkmate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T07:38:15.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31469" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15224" CreationDate="2016-06-17T11:15:32.877" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you roll the dice for the exploration action, the question mark result equates to a life lost- this is explained on the scenario card.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;So you cannot get lost and spend the night outside while rescuing her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17526" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T14:17:52.340" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T14:17:52.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31423" CreationDate="2016-06-17T15:39:09.970" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each ace has it's value determined separately. If you somehow drew 4 aces, you could have 4, 14, 24, 34, or 44 as the value of your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15492" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T15:39:09.970" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13561" CreationDate="2016-06-17T16:00:28.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This game is called as &quot;OKEY&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17528" LastActivityDate="2016-06-17T16:00:28.347" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31472" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31474" CreationDate="2016-06-17T16:08:15.133" Score="5" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game, the following board position remained after both parties passed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$ -----------&#xA;$$ .XO.X.X.OX.&#xA;$$ .XO.....OX.&#xA;$$ .XOOOOOOOX.&#xA;$$ .XXXXXXXXX.&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the post game analysis it turned out that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Black on the move can create a seki by connecting her two stones inside the white group&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;White on the move can create a ko to prohibit the Seki. When black wins the ko, the result is a seki.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;$$W&#xA;$$ -----------&#xA;$$ .XO4X1X6OX.&#xA;$$ .XO.325.OX.&#xA;$$ .XOOOOOOOX.&#xA;$$ .XXXXXXXXX.&#xA;$$ ...........&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;White takes the ko first with 7.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the situation was left as it is on the board, how is it counted (under Japanese rules or European rules)? When playing resumes, who has the first move? Do ko threats on the board count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11703" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-04-10T13:20:40.650" LastActivityDate="2018-04-10T13:20:40.650" Title="How to evaluate this board situation under Japanese or European rules" Tags="|go|counting|seki|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31473" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-17T18:22:55.190" Score="8" ViewCount="2378" Body="&lt;p&gt;The strongest publicly available go AI is probably this: &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/facebookresearch/darkforestGo&quot;&gt;https://github.com/facebookresearch/darkforestGo&lt;/a&gt;, since there is currently no way to play AlphaGo.  Is there any way to play this without building it on a local machine?  Is it available on a server somewhere?  Looks like the name on KGS is darkfmcts3 .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16114" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T10:45:39.830" LastActivityDate="2017-03-02T18:46:41.357" Title="What is the easiest way to play DarkForest, probably the strongest publicly available go AI?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31474" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31472" CreationDate="2016-06-18T06:52:02.617" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will only discuss the Japanese pro rules, since as far as I know there are no official European rules. The tournament of the European Go Congress 2015, for example, was played with AGA rules. I think most European tournaments are played with &lt;strong&gt;&amp;quot;Verbal European-Japanese Rules&amp;quot;&lt;/strong&gt; which usually require to fill all dame points and kos before the end of the game. Then I think the position would be counted as a &lt;strong&gt;Seki&lt;/strong&gt; by the referee.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?JapaneseRules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Senseis&lt;/a&gt; claims that &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.cmu.edu/%7Ewjh/go/rules/Japanese.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these&lt;/a&gt; are the official &lt;strong&gt;Japanese pro rules&lt;/strong&gt; in a translation of James Davies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two paragraphs are relevant for the question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9.2 After stopping, the game ends through confirmation and agreement by the two players about the life and death of stones and territory. This is called &amp;quot;the end of the game.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;9.3 If a player requests resumption of a stopped game, his opponent must oblige and has the right to play first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;13.1 After the game stops according to Article 9, if the players find an effective move, which would affect the result of the game, and therefore cannot agree to end the game, both players lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you already noted the best B can get is a Seki and the best W can get is killing the black stones. Therefore the only interesting situation is when B wins in case of the Seki and W wins if W can kill. Then it is important which player has more ko threats, though most likely the kos where already played as the situation appeared after both players passed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;B has more ko threats&lt;/strong&gt;: B claims resumption according to Article 9.3 and W plays first. W can play the ko but cannot win it. &lt;strong&gt;B wins&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;W has more ko threats or no ko threats&lt;/strong&gt;: B does not want to resume the match since B will lose the ko. In the case of no ko threats W takes first and B looses the ko as well. W does not want to resume the match since it would be B's turn and B will complete the Seki which results in a loss of W. Thus &lt;strong&gt;both players lose&lt;/strong&gt; according to Article 13.1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?JapaneseRules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Senseis&lt;/a&gt; you can also find commentaries on these rules pointing out some ambiguities around these Articles and adding interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; One of the comments there is &lt;a href=&quot;http://home.snafu.de/jasiek/j1989c.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; which I think clarifies that the position in the question would result in a loss of both players. The relevant paragraph is &lt;em&gt;§13 - Interpretation of the Rules of Play&lt;/em&gt;. The example there is similar to the position in the question. The point is that both players will agree that there is an effective move. Therefore Article 13.1 is to be used. W cannot claim that the stones are dead as long as this effective move exists. It is not important that this move will not be played as no player will ask for resumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15232" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T12:19:43.317" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31423" CreationDate="2016-06-18T10:55:34.757" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The hand is always scored to give the best possible value for the player, such that they have the highest score they can get without going bust. &lt;strong&gt;The player never chooses the values or the score&lt;/strong&gt;; it is decided by the rule and the cards on the table.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A+A+X will always be valued as 12+X, unless this would bust, in which case it must be valued as 12 (since the only such X is a ten-value card, and therefore the only non-bust score is for both aces to be one-value).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Source: professional experience dealing in a regulated casino.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T10:55:34.757" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31476" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T11:40:48.860" Score="7" ViewCount="25533" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say for example I'm at 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks with two creatures and I'm about to block one,&#xA;but my blocker has lifelink that would make me gain more life than I lose.&#xA;Do I still die due to the unblocked attacker or do I gain life before that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17531" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T06:40:26.260" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T07:52:49.333" Title="Does lifelink apply before life loss during combat damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31476" CreationDate="2016-06-18T11:59:37.907" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You gain life from lifelink at the same time as you lose it from the attacking creatures, and you will survive.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You gain life as soon as your creature deals damage, there is no delay:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15b Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller, or its owner if it has no controller, to gain that much life (in addition to any other results that damage causes). See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3f Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller to gain that much life, in addition to the damage’s other results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All combat damage is dealt at the same time during the combat damage step, assuming there is no first strike or double strike involved:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After combat, the active player gets priority and can cast spells etc.; before a player gets priority, &lt;em&gt;state-based actions&lt;/em&gt; are checked. Players can lose the game from having zero or less health only when those actions are checked:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5a If a player has 0 or less life, he or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By that time, combat damage has already been dealt and you have more than 0 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that there are some cards that cause life-gain as a triggered ability rather than through lifelink. They are superficially similar, but have a lot of differences too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, your creature didn't have lifelink but was instead enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArmadillo%20Cloak%5d&quot;&gt;Armadillo Cloak&lt;/a&gt;. This would result in the following differences:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The life gain would be put on the stack as a triggered ability. It would resolve after the combat damage step, at which point you would already have lost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple Armadillo Cloaks on the same creature stack, while lifelink doesn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Armadillo Cloak always gives life to the Cloak's controller, no matter who controls the enchanted creature, while lifelink always gives life to the creature's controller, no matter how it got lifelink.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-26T07:52:49.333" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31478" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T17:15:04.250" Score="-1" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the advantages/strategies of going last? Based off of my understanding:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a) you get worse options in choosing&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;b) last place in starting location&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;c) on last round, others can attack you to reduce your coins with no reciprocal effect.&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suggestion: Force every player to decline in last turn (like stout) which allows other players to have more open lands. This would help because they can't reduce other player's scores but they could potentially boost their own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do you think?? :):)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17532" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:11:43.250" Title="What is the advantage of going last in Smallworld" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-06-27T08:58:46.010" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31480" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:07:51.913" Score="6" ViewCount="4696" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Forbidden Island, must the Engineer be either on or adjacent to a tile to shore it up?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17534" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T15:21:25.403" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T01:46:12.877" Title="Forbidden Island Engineer's power?" Tags="|forbidden-island|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31481" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28161" CreationDate="2016-06-18T20:55:45.250" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In our game of Trouble, rolling a 1 meant that the other players could bring a piece out of home but it doesn't affect the player that rolled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17535" LastActivityDate="2016-06-18T20:55:45.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31482" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31480" CreationDate="2016-06-19T00:25:35.570" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is understandable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Engineer's ability reads &quot;shore up two tiles for one action&quot;, and the shore action is defined as follows: &quot;To shore a tile, simply flip it so its un-flooded side is facing up&quot;. As written, the rules place no limit on which tiles the Engineer can shore up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But then one considers that other players are restricted to shoring up adjacent tiles. &quot;You may, for one or more actions, shore up any adjacent tile (up, down, left, right) or the Island tile your pawn is on&quot;, and one might think this restriction is suppose to apply to the Engineer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They'd be right. The restriction does apply to the Engineer as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Compare the Engineer's and the Explorer's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Explorer considers &lt;em&gt;diagonal&lt;/em&gt; tiles to also be adjacent for shoring and movement purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The more restrictive reading of the Engineer's ability gives it a free action almost every turn. This is a huge boon. It would be insane to also give it a power that's much more powerful than the Explorer's (considering &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; tiles to be adjacent for shoring purposes).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/580940/engineer-and-shoring&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;same answer&lt;/a&gt; was previously given on Board Game Geek.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T23:26:46.677" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T23:26:46.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31478" CreationDate="2016-06-19T01:36:19.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are only disadvantaged if everyone else is trying to do nothing about trying to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The guy who goes first gets an advantage and if no one punishes him, he wins.  If you as last place sit idly by and let everyone do their best, you lose.  This is an important point in many games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T01:36:19.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31485" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28893" CreationDate="2016-06-19T16:56:27.663" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, hand destruction of &quot;send two cards to the graveyard&quot;, is NOT a cost. It is an effect. However it does require two or more cards in hand to activate. As you cannot activate a card unless you can resolve it as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now my question is, what if I had the cards &quot;Hand destruction (quick play spell)&quot;, &quot;Allure of darkness (normal spell)&quot; Kuriboh (dark monster)&quot;, &quot;Chain Strike (quick play spell)&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I activate allure of darkness -(chain)-&gt; hand destruction -(chain)-&gt; Chain strike&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17545" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-06-19T23:13:49.007" LastActivityDate="2016-06-19T23:13:49.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31480" CreationDate="2016-06-19T20:43:40.817" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the manual:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2nUu.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/C2nUu.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any character can shore up a tile that is either adjacent or underneath them. The engineer is listed as an exception because he can shore up 2 tiles per action. It doesn't indicate any other requirements or exceptions for the Engineer. It does distinctly say they must be for one action so you can't spread it around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some think that you can shore up two tiles away:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The group I played with argued that he could shore up two tiles in a straight &quot;line&quot;. That is, one adjacent tile plus the one next in line, adjacent to that adjacent tile. So, shoring up a tile that has a tile between it and the tile he/she is standing on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but the general consensus is this is incorrect. Nothing in the rules indicate that. The ability doesn't say he can shore up two adjacent tiles but 2 tiles which inherit the previous property of adjacent to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T01:46:12.877" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T01:46:12.877" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31487" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31488" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:26:10.590" Score="3" ViewCount="2328" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do creatures with enchantments on them keep the enchantments if they return to the battlefield from the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a creature is sent to the graveyard from the battlefield, and has an enchantment aura on it when it does, if I were to play a card that allowed me to return a creature from the graveyard to the battlefield, would it return with the enchantments that it had on it when it went to the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user17548" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T01:38:13.957" Title="Do creatures with enchantments on them keep the enchantments if they return to the battlefield from the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31487" CreationDate="2016-06-20T01:38:13.957" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, nothing like that happens. Once the creature is in the graveyard, it's no longer associated with the aura in any way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the creature dies, the aura is sent to the graveyard as a state-based action (i.e. the next time a player would gain priority):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the creature card and enchantment card in the graveyard don't know they were ever associated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are eight exceptions to this rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...exceptions that don't apply here...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you return the creature to the battlefield, it's yet again an entirely new creature, nothing to do with the aura that was once attached to that creature card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T01:38:13.957" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31489" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31493" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:17:56.637" Score="10" ViewCount="3348" Body="&lt;p&gt;We got &lt;em&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/em&gt; for Christmas and I just found out about &lt;em&gt;King of New York&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;strong&gt;What's the difference between these two games?&lt;/strong&gt; Is &lt;em&gt;King of New York&lt;/em&gt; just &lt;em&gt;King of Tokyo&lt;/em&gt; done &quot;right&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:50:07.657" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:50:07.657" Title="What's the difference between King of Tokyo and King of New York?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|king-of-new-york|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31490" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31491" CreationDate="2016-06-20T06:47:45.283" Score="5" ViewCount="180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can the &quot;The Next Act Begins!&quot; Mythos card be a valid first mythos to draw during the game setup? There is no rule prohibiting it, but it would result in no gate emerging at the start of the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T08:06:14.287" Title="Is The Next Act Begins a valid first mythos card during setup?" Tags="|arkham-horror|arkham-horror-the-king-in-yellow|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31491" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31490" CreationDate="2016-06-20T07:53:29.217" Score="9" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a mythos card with no gate is drawn during step 14 of&#xA;  Game Setup, discard it and draw again until you draw a&#xA;  mythos card that depicts a gate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/ca/f0/caf0a739-bda3-4c39-b8cb-a3a915253eb1/arkham_horror__core_faq.pdf&quot;&gt;Arkham Horror Core FAQ&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/9b/2a/9b2a9f8f-0b42-45ba-bcd2-87dc55c68f5f/complete_arkham_horror_faq.pdf&quot;&gt;Complete Arkham Horror FAQ&lt;/a&gt;, &quot;Rule Changes and Clarifications&quot; (page 2 in both sources)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T08:06:14.287" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T08:06:14.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31493" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31489" CreationDate="2016-06-20T09:30:56.610" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;King of New York is essentially King of Tokyo with some modifications:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Victory points on the dice are less dominant, having a single VP result. The other 2 faces are replaced with buildings and skulls.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are regions and things to do for people &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; in the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Buildings are able to be destroyed, adding a risk/reward mechanic as destroying buildings adds military units. This also adds a potential way to heal in the middle.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The skull results allow you to target people you couldn't attack if they're in a region with lots of military units.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Staying in Manhattan is more rewarding than staying in Tokyo, and the rewards grow with time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For me, the biggest difference is how the game encourages getting in and smashing things up. In King of Tokyo, being in Tokyo was very risky and offered little reward. In my experience, the dominant strategy was staying outside and rolling for points. In King of New York, with the improved rewards for being in Manhattan, the possibility of healing or taking other rewards, and the decreased value of rolling VPs, staying in is much more viable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T08:43:37.473" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T08:43:37.473" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31494" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T11:40:44.467" Score="1" ViewCount="6786" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the betrayal at house on the hill rule book it says the traitor gets an extra turn on the monsters turn but what if there are no monsters in that haunt does the traitor still get the extra turn? Also is there a post somewhere that could help balance some of the haunts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17550" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T16:27:59.733" Title="Betrayal at house on the hill question about monster turns" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31495" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-20T13:44:48.820" Score="2" ViewCount="12737" Body="&lt;p&gt;We did not see anything about this in this rules, but we encountered a situation where the monster that our traitor was controlling entered the mystic elevator. Our only remaining hero was wearing armor that was slowing her down, meaning she had a speed of one. At this point, the monster could effectively use the mystic elevator over and over, leaving the hero unable to catch up and fight the monster. Are there rules we missed that would prevent this situation (only using the elevator once maybe?) or is this just a case of &quot;don't be an idiot and ruin the game for everyone else&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17554" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T16:15:26.470" Title="Betrayal at House on the Hill - Mystic Elevator" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31495" CreationDate="2016-06-20T15:11:00.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The rules neither prevent such stalemates nor say what to do if you encounter one.&lt;/strong&gt; If your group is competitive, it's safest to decide one result for all future games - declare a draw, pick a side as the default winner, or use a rule like superko. If you are playing less competitively and instead emphasize the storytelling aspects, you could decide on the fly - e.g. perhaps declare a victory in your case, but if instead the heroes were perpetually on the run then decide they tire or starve and the traitor wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T15:29:44.750" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T15:29:44.750" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31495" CreationDate="2016-06-20T16:15:26.470" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are errata pertaining to the mystic elevator, but I don't believe that they would fix your situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Mystic Elevator -- Can a group of heroes or monsters use the elevator in a group to&#xA;  attack their enemies, then retreat to safety?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;No. Add the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;      &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;      &lt;li&gt;Monsters and traitors can both use the Elevator to go wherever they wish without&#xA;      rolling. &lt;strong&gt;However, the elevator may only be moved once during each entire&#xA;      traitor/monster set of turns, the first time a traitor or monster enters it. In other&#xA;      words, if the traitor uses it during his turn, then it will not work later on if a&#xA;      monster enters it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;      &lt;li&gt;Heroes must roll for their destination floor each time they enter the elevator, or at&#xA;      the end of each entire movement phase that they spend in the elevator without&#xA;      moving.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;      &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;    &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand your question correctly, you are talking about a monster using the Mystic Elevator just once each turn; and because of this, you couldn't ever catch the monster. The thing is, this isn't a situation unique to the Mystic Elevator. Depending on the layout of the house, if you only have 1 movement, and the monster has more than 1, then it would be easy for the monster to always avoid you, even without the Mystic Elevator. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the win condition for the traitor is simply to have the monster survive long enough, then it sounds like a clean with for the traitor. If the win condition requires the monster to kill the heroes, then the traitor shouldn't be just running away the whole time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To advise how to handle your specific situation, we would need to know the actual win conditions for both teams. But if the game cannot end without the monster and hero fighting each other, then it sounds like a clean stalemate to me, and a legitimate move for the traitor to make if he is sure he can't win in combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T16:15:26.470" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31498" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31494" CreationDate="2016-06-20T16:18:17.610" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traitor does not get an &quot;extra&quot; turn. Rather, he gets a turn to control his own character, and then the monsters get a turn, in which the traitor controls what they do. So if there are no monsters in a given scenario, then the traitor just takes his normal turn, once, and nothing happens on the &quot;monster turn&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule quote:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the traitor’s turn, any monsters&#xA;  controlled by the traitor get a monster turn. (This means that the traitor gets two turns: one&#xA;  for his or her actions and one for the monsters.) Then the first hero to the left of the traitor&#xA;  takes a turn, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So while it does describe the traitor as getting &quot;two turns&quot;, it is also clear that the &quot;second turn&quot; is the monsters' turn, not actually the traitor's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-06-20T16:27:59.733" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T16:27:59.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5862" CreationDate="2016-06-20T18:56:29.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;For me, I would divide the deck into smaller parts that you can handle. Riffle shuffle (or any way you like) those and mix the small decks together, one group at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17556" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T18:56:29.953" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31500" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31502" CreationDate="2016-06-20T19:21:20.140" Score="2" ViewCount="1134" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title. If not, what happens if you build the wonder, say in Age II, and all the cards are duplicates of cards you've already built?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T19:36:56.040" Title="Can you use Halicarnassus to build a duplicate card?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31502" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31500" CreationDate="2016-06-20T19:36:56.040" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10938/where-can-i-find-the-rules-for-7-wonders-and-its-expansions/10939#10939&quot;&gt;base rule (p. 5)&lt;/a&gt; of forbidding duplicate cards is always in effect: (emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: a player can &lt;strong&gt;never&lt;/strong&gt; build two identical structures (meaning those with the same name/the same illustration).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Halikarnassos you are still &quot;building&quot; a card: (p. 9)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the first stage is worth 2 victory points and the player can look at &#xA;  all of the cards discarded since the beginning of the game and &lt;strong&gt;build&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;  one for free&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the base rule is still in effect: you may not build a duplicate card. If all cards are duplicates, then you cannot build anything and you have just &quot;wasted&quot; your special ability; this has happened once to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-06-20T19:36:56.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31503" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T02:23:07.460" Score="1" ViewCount="3607" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players can put cards down on the table unequipped. If they have a one-shot card on the table, such as a loaded die or a type of grenade, can they use those cards during combat? Or, can you only play cards that are on the table when you are not in combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17558" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T13:44:51.513" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T17:41:21.960" Title="Can I play unequipped on-the-table cards in combat?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31504" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T03:02:00.963" Score="2" ViewCount="300" Body="&lt;p&gt;Got in a fight with my dad over this because I wouldn't allow the game to go on until I understood all the rules correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my dad had a single 7-build of 4 + 3, I had a single 3-build of 2 + A. He proceeds to add a 4 from his hand onto my build, changing the build value from a 3 to a 7. He then combines his new 7-build to his previous 7-build making a multiple 7-build. On his next turn he takes the multiple build with an another 7 he has in his hand. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to add a single build &lt;em&gt;with a changed value&lt;/em&gt; with a preexisting build?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the rule below because both separate builds add up to 5 and is captured with a 5&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wQEUj.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/wQEUj.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but does this rule apply to a build that originally &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;did not&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; equate to the capture value of the build it was added to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I just started to play Casino and I'm still learning so I might not be articulating the exact question I have in mind but hopefully what I wrote&#xA;  makes enough sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17559" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T04:25:58.007" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T00:52:22.860" Title="Possible to add a single build with changed value onto a preexisting build?" Tags="|cassino-the-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31506" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-21T04:27:19.920" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T04:27:19.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T04:27:19.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31507" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-21T04:27:19.920" Score="0" Body="Cassino is an Italian fishing card game. (This tag is NOT for card games played at casinos, see [playing-cards] instead.)" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T04:27:19.920" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T04:27:19.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31503" CreationDate="2016-06-21T06:46:00.183" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;One-shot items you are &quot;carrying&quot; can be used just like ones in your hand. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;*:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All Items you have in play are considered “carried.” Items that are actually&#xA;  giving you a bonus are “equipped.” You should indicate Items that are not&#xA;  equipped by turning the cards sideways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A Treasure card that says “Usable once only” is often called a “one-shot”&#xA;  Treasure. Most of these are &lt;strong&gt;used during combat&lt;/strong&gt; to strengthen the munchkins&#xA;  or the monsters, &lt;strong&gt;and may be played from your hand or from the table.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cards in play may not be returned to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the main things that change when you put a one-shot card in play are &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pro: it doesn't count against your hand limit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Con: other players can see you have it and can e.g. target it with steal-an-item effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, I notice you are using the word &quot;card&quot; everywhere instead of &quot;item&quot;, so I want to make sure you know the difference: an &quot;Item&quot; is any card with a gold cost (including &quot;No Value&quot;), and &lt;strong&gt;only Items may be carried&lt;/strong&gt;. So if your hand is overfull with monsters and stuff, you'll have to give them to charity or find a different way to get rid of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*those are the base game rules, but to my knowledge none of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Munchkin_series&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;many&lt;/a&gt; other versions and expansions significantly change the rule in question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T17:41:21.960" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T17:41:21.960" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31510" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31511" CreationDate="2016-06-21T10:54:48.120" Score="6" ViewCount="900" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to assign damage to a single blocking creature that is less than the attacking creature's power? If so, it is possible to assign less than lethal damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I attack with a big 20/20 creature, and my opponent blocks with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Saber%20Ants&quot;&gt;Saber Ants&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;em&gt;Whenever Saber Ants is dealt damage, you may put that many 1/1 green Insect creature tokens onto the battlefield&lt;/em&gt;). I don't want to give him 20 tokens, so can I just assign 3 damage and not the rest? Maybe I want to keep his Ants alive for some reason - can I assign less than lethal damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T10:59:38.890" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:04:58.810" Title="Assigning damage less than power" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31511" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31510" CreationDate="2016-06-21T11:04:58.810" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The attacker has to assign all combat damage to creatures blocking each of his or her creatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1c A blocked creature assigns its combat damage to the creatures blocking it. If no creatures are currently blocking it (if, for example, they were destroyed or removed from combat), it assigns no combat damage. &lt;strong&gt;If exactly one creature is blocking it, it assigns all its combat damage to that creature.&lt;/strong&gt; [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One notable exception to that rule is if the attacking creature has the trample ability. In that case, you only have to assign lethal damage (3 in your example) to the creature(s) blocking it, and the rest may be assigned to the defending player or the blocking creatures as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.19b The controller of an attacking creature with trample first assigns damage to the creature(s) blocking it. Once all those blocking creatures are assigned lethal damage, any remaining damage is assigned as its controller chooses among those blocking creatures and the player or planeswalker the creature is attacking. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T11:04:58.810" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31512" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31516" CreationDate="2016-06-21T15:43:28.770" Score="5" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many location encounters reference a monster (such as a monster appearing) and require a combat check.  One encounter at St. Mary's Hospital says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The corpse you are examining isn't quite dead yet. It reaches out and grabs you by the throat. Lose 1 Sanity. Then you must fight the corpse. If you pass the Combat (-1) check, you defeat it and gain 1 Clue token.  Otherwise, move to the streets&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I to draw a monster randomly and skip the option to evade here (doesn't seem implied), or am I to simply do a Fight check enhanced by those items that regularly can enhance it during combat (such as 2 hands worth of weapons and other combat enhancing boosts) and then forgo any modifier for the creature's combat rating since there is no creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming when there is mention of a monster appearing or attacking, and then a reference to a combat check, that normally I would want to draw a random monster as in the various mentions to a monster appearing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T17:14:18.730" Title="Do some combat checks occur without monsters?" Tags="|arkham-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31513" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31515" CreationDate="2016-06-21T15:55:28.207" Score="6" ViewCount="2567" Body="&lt;p&gt;My girlfriend and I got into a discussion about scrabble the other day and we were wondering what the smallest score you could get for a 7 letter word is, presuming the board is empty. The word can be placed anywhere and all other scrabble rules are adhered to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then what would be the smallest scoring word that would be able to beat said 7 letter word. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a way you can work this out? I could probably work out the first bit if I had a scrabble board but I wouldn't know where to start with the second part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13507" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-12-21T08:18:22.073" LastActivityDate="2018-12-13T07:45:17.607" Title="Minimum score for 7 letters and what beats it" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31514" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-21T16:09:48.330" Score="1" ViewCount="326" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning to print out the localized version of Cards Against Humanity to play with some friends, and I'm researching the best cost-wise way to do it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original PDF suggests using 80lb cardstock and that's it. That's &lt;em&gt;couché 360g&lt;/em&gt;, a gramature I've yet to find here in Brazil - the heaviest I've seen in printshops is 300g. I'm researching some places to make thin PVC cards, but that seems hard to find, probably expensive, and I'm considering it as a last resort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Questions:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how durable would a plain cardstock deck be, considering it's not even going to be shuffled? I'm thinking about they getting destroyed by handing them around, dirty / sweating hands, occasional dirty on the game table (as this is a party game)  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;what kind of finishings I could use in plain cardstock to give them a longer life? I've seem laminating and plastifying services in printshops, but they're also quite expensive (adds at least 3.5x the cardstock print price). I'm also not looking for pure home-made solutions, as some I've seen in Instructables or BGG, as there's &lt;em&gt;heaps&lt;/em&gt; of cards and that's going to take a lot of time to finish - but if that would be the only way to go, suggest away.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how important is to have round corners in this case? Do square corners play a big role in card durability?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;how bigger would the deck get if I use light sleeves on it? Consider the original deck has 560 cards, and I would add more expansions to it later.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17509" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T17:22:14.853" Title="Are home-made cardstock cards durable?" Tags="|playing-cards|custom-game-pieces|party|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31513" CreationDate="2016-06-21T16:21:45.327" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum score for a seven letter word if you can place the word anywhere is 55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;e.g. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;RETiNAs C2 across. (lower case indicate blanks)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The score is 5 for RETNA, 0 for the blanks, and 50 bonus for using all 7 letters. The word would lie on a TL square, but since this is covered by a blank, it gives no bonus since 3x0 = 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could be beaten by a three-letter word e.g.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;ZAX A1 across&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The score is 19 x 3 = 57. I can't think of any &lt;em&gt;common&lt;/em&gt; three letter word that would fit here, but ZAX is valid in both TWL and SOWPODS dictionaries. For common words, I suspect you'd have to go to four letters and something like QUIZ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The largest possible score for a two-letter word, before bonus squares, is 11 (QI, ZA or ZO), so you couldn't get higher than 33.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While these match the criteria in your question, they could never occur in isolation in a real game since they would either have to be opening moves across the central DW square, or joined onto existing words. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T16:21:45.327" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31512" CreationDate="2016-06-21T17:14:18.730" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't draw a monster. Like you said, you just make a combat check - except there is a modifier, the (-1) specified by the encounter. And it really is a combat check, not a weird fight check; that's why your items with combat modifiers apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a monster is to appear, the card will say so, and plenty do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T17:14:18.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31517" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="17860" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:08:51.250" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For every 1-2 players added to the game, you would add a full set of cards to the Court Deck.  This ensures that their is sufficient cards that nobody knows the full contents.  One thing that helped me was to purchase a packet of white label stickers.  I put one of these on the upper right hand corner of the face side of each card.  I wrote on the labels of 3 of the 5 of each card &quot;2-6&quot; and on 1 of the 5 I wrote &quot;7-8&quot; and on the last I wrote &quot;9-10.&quot;  I also put them in sleeves to make them shuffle easier with the added sticker on them (as well as to protect the edges as mine were getting worn from play).  Now, when I pull the deck out, all I need to know is the number of players and I can quickly pull just the right number of cards by pulling all of the &quot;2-6&quot; cards and the additional sets based on player count without having to remember the card counts or look them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17560" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T18:08:51.250" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1497" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:36:28.553" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;when you play more, you'll realize what pieces are unwieldy and which others are not so much. By general consensus, the 5 pieces are obviously the hardest to add upon later on, thus, you must play them first if you can. And of course, out of the 5-piece blocks, there are the worst, which people above clearly have the consensus to be V, W, and Z. Of course, the 5-straight line can be also useful in the beginning to open up and quickly reach the center, and the X can also be difficult to throw in the later game. When opening up you should also consider how to block off your opponent's advances so they don't get into your territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14381" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T18:36:28.553" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31519" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31520" CreationDate="2016-06-21T18:52:26.687" Score="2" ViewCount="167" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember seeing a card once, but I cannot remember which deck it belongs to, or whether it was a minor improvement or occupation. I am also having trouble finding it on google. The text was similar to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;When you use a minor or major improvement to convert building resources into food, you receive two extra food&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thoughts?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T07:47:02.817" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T07:47:02.817" Title="What is the deck and name of this card that gives extra food?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31520" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31519" CreationDate="2016-06-21T19:06:04.997" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a website that lists out all of the cards and effects &lt;a href=&quot;https://alavigne.net/Gaming/Agricola/agricola-comp-v9.0.html&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card you are asking about is the Artisan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At most once per harvest, when you use an improvement to convert a building resource to food, you receive 2 additional food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can search through that list for things like &quot;2 additional food&quot; to find similar cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T19:06:04.997" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2016-06-21T20:24:26.590" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Edit: my answer is incorrect since these bots seem to have been taken offline). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a number of bots on kgs that run DarKForest that you can play against.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are its accounts:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;darkfmcts3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;darkfmcts2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;darkfmcts1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;darkfores2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;darkfores1&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;darkforest &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing against this bot on KGS is probably the easiest way for most people to play against it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastEditorUserId="17471" LastEditDate="2016-06-21T20:39:11.197" LastActivityDate="2016-06-21T20:39:11.197" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31522" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T05:39:08.803" Score="2" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just played Smash up with the &lt;strong&gt;second edition&lt;/strong&gt; and the first as &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bear Cavalry-tricksters&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; against my Dad who played as          &lt;strong&gt;Ninja Zombies&lt;/strong&gt; And he kicked my butt,  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm aware that there are &lt;strong&gt;counter factions&lt;/strong&gt;, like say Tricksters do awful against Ghosts since Ghosts are all about Discarding cards, and Tricksters keep making you discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ninja Zombies seem to have good synergy with each other which makes it quite clever, since Zombies keep coming back from the dead when Ninjas kill everything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any &lt;strong&gt;counter factions&lt;/strong&gt; towards them all? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17567" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T07:44:32.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:06:55.823" Title="A good counter faction to Ninja-Zombies" Tags="|smash-up|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31524" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T13:56:11.023" Score="1" ViewCount="190" Body="&lt;p&gt;There was a CCG called &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Warlord_%28card_game%29&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Warlord: Saga of the Storm&lt;/a&gt; that I played briefly in its relevancy. It was the only CCG I played where positioning was a main element. Ranged attacks, etc. The accompanying image is low quality, but shows an example of unit placement based on ranks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mostly I am just wondering if this concept saw light in other &lt;strong&gt;card games&lt;/strong&gt;. A board game like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mage_Wars&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mage Wars&lt;/a&gt; uses placement with cards, but also requires a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I also wonder if there are traditional playing card games with the element of strategical card placement? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5a0R.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/t5a0R.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7497" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T02:27:27.523" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T02:27:27.523" Title="Positional based, strategical card games?" Tags="|playing-cards|tactics|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-06-22T14:01:41.123" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31525" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28227" CreationDate="2016-06-22T17:15:27.593" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the AA can fire back. That's because in reality, the firing is &quot;simultaneous.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defender's losses are removed as they are hit in order to keep them &quot;separate&quot; for removal. But the fact of the matter is that the whole defensive complement fires on the turn, including the units taken as casualties. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all the defenders fire, the attacker's casualties are tallied and removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T17:15:27.593" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31526" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-22T17:41:57.640" Score="2" ViewCount="459" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember having and playing this game in early to late 90's when I was a kid. There was a deck of dinosaurs with stats like &quot;length&quot;, &quot;ferocity&quot;, and two others I cannot remember. When you finished your turn on one of four special fields which were located in the corners of the board, you'd have put down one of your dinosaur cards and compare the specified stat with other player(s) cards. I faintly remember that whenever you would win, you would move your other indicator away from the volcano which was pictured in the middle of the board. HELP!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17571" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T10:19:12.637" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T11:51:20.290" Title="What's the name of the board game with dinosaur cards?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31527" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31526" CreationDate="2016-06-22T18:11:49.067" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could it be &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/3149/lost-valley-dinosaurs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;Lost Valley of the Dinosaurs&quot;&gt;Lost Valley of the Dinosaurs&lt;/a&gt;? While technically published in 1985, it could easily have been a staple in the '90s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description from BoardGameGeek:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You have discovered an ancient chart to a lost valley. It shows that once the valley was occupied by a fierce tribe of natives who had collected a vast wealth of treasure and used vicious dinosaurs to help protect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No humans inhabit the valley now and the chart shows that the 'treasure' is still hidden in a temple at the top of the valley but the dinosaurs are still there!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The secret of the valley and its treasure have been stolen and you know that other expeditions are currently journeying to discover the lost secret of the valley.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As your party enters the valley a volcano which has been dormant for centuries rumbles and threatens to engulf the valley in lava.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The race is on, who will win the fabulous riches of the temple and who may die?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It appears to use &quot;Adventure Cards&quot;, and involves the adventurers being chased around the board by dinosaurs while collecting treasure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T18:11:49.067" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31528" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31530" CreationDate="2016-06-22T18:16:55.250" Score="6" ViewCount="5049" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I recognize that replacement effects are chosen in order by the affected object/player's controller per&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;616.1. If two or more replacement and/or prevention effects are attempting to modify the way an event affects an object or player, the&#xA;affected object's controller (or its owner if it has no controller) or&#xA;the affected player chooses one to apply, following the steps listed&#xA;below. If two or more players have to make these choices at the same&#xA;time, choices are made in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, in the case of multiple &amp;quot;Next Time&amp;quot; effects, say, Circle of Protection activations, are all of the uses forced to happen at the same time? If a replacement effect isn't used, does it work similar to regeneration shields, in that they can still be used later?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Circle%20of%20Protection%3A%20Red&quot;&gt;Circle of Protection: Red&lt;/a&gt; has an activated ability with oracle text as follows&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: The next time a red source of your choice would deal damage to you this turn, prevent that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example Scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Adam activates Circle of Protection: Red two times during Nat's&#xA;Beginning of Combat step, choosing Nat's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dragon-Style%20Twins&quot;&gt;Dragon-Style Twins&lt;/a&gt; (A red&#xA;creature with double strike).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nat attacks with his Dragon-Style&#xA;Twins, and Adam does not block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will Nat's Dragon-Style Twins deal combat damage during either the first strike or normal combat damage steps? Obviously, please cite your answer, thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12202" LastEditorUserId="12202" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T18:19:47.403" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T18:34:43.680" Title="Multiple Replacement Effects for &quot;Next Time&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31529" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31528" CreationDate="2016-06-22T18:28:58.850" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since the Comprehensive Rule you quoted (616.1) is hard to understand, we can use a ruling on a similar card, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Dazzling%20Reflection&quot;&gt;Dazzling Reflection&lt;/a&gt;, to demonstrate the intent:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If two Dazzling Reflections targeting the same creature have resolved in the same turn, only one prevention effect will apply the next time it would deal damage. The other effect will apply if the creature would deal damage a second time later that turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We conclude from this ruling that if two prevention effects are competing, then one will apply &amp;quot;next time&amp;quot; and the second will apply the time after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-06-22T18:44:20.283" LastActivityDate="2016-06-22T18:44:20.283" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31528" CreationDate="2016-06-22T18:40:02.697" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Dragon-Style Twins will not deal damage in either combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the subrules of the rule you quoted, 616.1e, says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated (&lt;strong&gt;taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable&lt;/strong&gt;) until there are no more left to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the first combat damage step, the process of applying replacement and prevention effects goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We start with two instances of &quot;the next time Dragon-Style Twins would deal damage to you this turn, prevent that damage&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The effect to be modified is &quot;Dragon-Style Twins deals 3 damage to you&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose (arbitrarily) to apply the first prevention effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new effect is &quot;Nothing happens&quot;. Now there are no applicable replacement or prevention effects, so the process ends.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One instance of the Circle of Protection: Red effect was applied, and the other was not, so now we have one remaining Circle of Protection: Red effect to apply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, a replacement or prevention effect that applies to &quot;the next time&quot; something would happen is only consumed if it is actually applied to an event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T18:34:43.680" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T18:34:43.680" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7611" CreationDate="2016-06-23T00:49:24.193" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;baker's dozen has a number of variants.  the one i play most has all cards face up and kings placed at top of stack.  this variant can be won almost all the time (99.5 to 99.9%).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;the strategy i use is to:&#xA;1) put all the aces and deuces up on their appropriate pile, and some of the higher cards if not needed later;&#xA;2) try to find the best king(s) to uncover and look for queens that trap a card in between to start the build;&#xA;3) when building a stack the primary task is to bring a card that can potentially trap cards above it, and only secondarily to match suits.  this means that sometimes a lot of rearranging will happen later in the game to get the suits matched.&#xA;4) when reducing a stack it's best to uncover the higher valued top cards and not to build on the suit piles;&#xA;5)when building a stack, look for potential blocks to remove.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17572" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T00:49:24.193" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31532" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31533" CreationDate="2016-06-23T09:27:27.110" Score="4" ViewCount="2135" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to use say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Spinerock%20Knoll&quot;&gt;Spinerock Knoll&lt;/a&gt;'s or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mosswort%20Bridge&quot;&gt;Mosswort Bridge&lt;/a&gt;'s Hideaway ability to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Tooth%20and%20Nail&quot;&gt;Tooth and Nail&lt;/a&gt;, am I able to then pay the entwine cost to have both effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Im not sure whether the card being exiled effects whether I can use the entwine cost or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am also not sure if casting without paying the manna cost stops me from being able to use the entwine cost...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My gut feeling is that additional costs are separate from Manna costs so I would be able to do this? Am I right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5428" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T10:24:39.087" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T10:53:39.113" Title="Hideaway Lands and Additional Costs" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31533" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31532" CreationDate="2016-06-23T10:38:20.987" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you may choose modes and pay additional costs for a spell if you cast it through a Hideaway land.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tooth and Nail is a modal spell; if you choose both modes, you incur an additional cost. You may choose modes if and when you cast a spell. As long as you do cast the spell (as opposed to copying it, or putting it on the stack in some other way), it does not matter where you cast it from or whether its mana costs have been altered in any way. Choosing to Entwine simply increases the cost of the spell from (in your case) {0} to {2}, after you paid {G} for the land's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Hideaway lands' activated ability reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You may play the exiled card without paying its mana cost if [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It allows you to &lt;em&gt;play&lt;/em&gt; the exiled card (which means &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; if that card is a spell) for no mana cost (the cost printed in the upper right of the card), if a certain condition is met. If you do, you proceed to cast the exiled card just like you would from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;601&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Casting Spells&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.1a Some effects still refer to “playing” a card. “Playing a card” means playing that card as a land or casting that card as a spell, whichever is appropriate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2. To cast a spell is to take it from where it is (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2b If the spell is modal, the player announces the mode choice (see rule 700.2). If the player wishes to splice any cards onto the spell (see rule 702.46), he or she reveals those cards in his or her hand. If the spell has alternative or additional costs that will be paid as it’s being cast such as buyback or kicker costs (see rules 117.8 and 117.9), the player announces his or her intentions to pay any or all of those costs (see rule 601.2f). [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2f The player determines the total cost of the spell. Usually this is just the mana cost. Some spells have additional or alternative costs. Some effects may increase or reduce the cost to pay, or may provide other alternative costs. Costs may include paying mana, tapping permanents, sacrificing permanents, discarding cards, and so on. The total cost is the mana cost or alternative cost (as determined in rule 601.2b), plus all additional costs and cost increases, and minus all cost reductions. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.41a Entwine is a static ability of modal spells (see rule 700.2) that functions while the spell is on the stack. “Entwine [cost]” means “You may choose all modes of this spell instead of just one. If you do, you pay an additional [cost].” Using the entwine ability follows the rules for choosing modes and paying additional costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2f–h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T10:53:39.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31534" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31535" CreationDate="2016-06-23T11:48:23.567" Score="13" ViewCount="657" Body="&lt;p&gt;Through the use of e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Sakashima%20the%20Impostor&quot;&gt;Sakashima the Impostor&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Gallery&quot;&gt;Mirror Gallery&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Helm%20of%20the%20Host&quot;&gt;Helm of the Host&lt;/a&gt;, there are two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Experiment%20Kraj&quot;&gt;Experiment Kraj&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, each with a +1/+1 counter on it. How many additional copies of their activated abilities does each Experiment Kraj have: one, infinite or some other number?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from curiosity about the rules interaction, it actually matters for abilities that can only be activated &lt;a href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+%5B%22only%20once%20each%20turn%22%5D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a limited number of times per turn&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2021-10-23T17:46:21.637" LastActivityDate="2021-10-23T17:46:21.637" Title="Two Experiment Kraj are on the battlefield, what are their abilities?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31534" CreationDate="2016-06-23T12:34:42.010" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In addition to their own abilities, the first Experiment Kraj will have 1 set of copies of applicable abilities, while the second Kraj will have 2 sets. Ultimately, the total number of copied abilities will grow exponentially.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules to look at are found in&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;613&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Interaction of Continuous Effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An object's characteristics are determined through a system of layers. Ability-modifying effects are handled in layer 6. This is where the continuous effect of Experiment Kraj's static ability is applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.1f Layer 6: &lt;strong&gt;Ability-adding effects,&lt;/strong&gt; ability-removing effects, and effects that say an object can’t have an ability are applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When 2 Kraj are on the battlefield and they try to add each other's activated abilities, their effects are dependent on each other:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.7. Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is sometimes done using a dependency system. If a dependency exists, it will override the timestamp system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.7a An effect is said to “depend on” another if (a) it’s applied in the same layer (and, if applicable, sublayer) as the other effect (see rules 613.1 and 613.3);&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True because they are the same ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(b) applying the other would change the text or the existence of the first effect, what it applies to, or what it does to any of the things it applies to;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True because applying one ability influences what the other would do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(c) neither effect is from a characteristic-defining ability or both effects are from characteristic-defining abilities. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;True, because both add abilities to the creature it's on. Abilities (card text) are a characteristic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;613.7b An effect dependent on one or more other effects waits to apply until just after all of those effects have been applied. If multiple dependent effects would apply simultaneously in this way, they’re applied in timestamp order relative to each other. &lt;strong&gt;If several dependent effects form a dependency loop, then this rule is ignored and the effects in the dependency loop are applied in timestamp order.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The 2 abilities would form a loop, because each depends on the other. Therefore, they are instead applied once, in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the Kraj with the lower timestamp would be applied first. It gains all abilities of other creatures with a +1/+1 counter on it. Next, the other Kraj is handled. It also gets all activated abilities of other creatures with a +1/+1 counter on it, including the already handled first Kraj.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; There are 2 Experiment Kraj and an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAvizoa%5d&quot;&gt;Avizoa&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield. All creatures have a +1/+1 counter on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After continuous effects are handled, the first Kraj will have its own activated +1/+1 counter ability, the other Kraj's counter ability, and the Avizoa's &amp;quot;{0}: +2/+2, use once per turn&amp;quot; ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second Kraj will have its own counter ability, the two counter abilities from the first Kraj, and two of the Avizoa abilities (one from the first Kraj, the other from the Avizoa)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each Experiment Kraj on the battlefield will have the sum of copies of all other Krajs, some of which will already have been handled by the continuous effect rules. At 2 Krajs, the total is (2+3) = 5. At 3 Krajs, the first will have 3, the second 5, the third 9. At 4 Krajs, the last Kraj to be handled already has 25 total. Here are some diagrams for visualization:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyAqi.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyAqi.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This shows the total number of abilities each Kraj has with 1, 2, 3 Krajs etc. on the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhVbP.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/GhVbP.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triangle completed upwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSuJ1.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSuJ1.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little more info.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mathematically speaking, if there are &lt;em&gt;n&lt;/em&gt; Krajs on the battlefield, the &lt;em&gt;m&lt;/em&gt;-th Kraj to be handled will have a total of&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 + (n-1) * 2&lt;sup&gt;(m-1)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;sets of copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-07-20T15:09:45.980" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31538" CreationDate="2016-06-23T14:03:17.373" Score="8" ViewCount="5025" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a two player game of Sushi Go!, if only one player has Maki Rolls they would get the 6 points since they have the most of that type of card. Does the second player get the 3 points since they technically have the second most amount, or do they have to have at least one Maki Roll card to be able to get the 3 points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12749" LastEditorUserId="12749" LastEditDate="2016-06-23T14:17:30.017" LastActivityDate="2020-12-19T16:22:47.870" Title="Can a player get the second place points with no Maki Rolls in Sushi Go?" Tags="|sushi-go|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31538" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31536" CreationDate="2016-06-23T15:41:55.670" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to have at least one Maki Roll to score. This clarification is missing from the Gamewright English rules, but some other versions (including &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/108730/sushi-go-german-rules-zoch-version&quot;&gt;this German one&lt;/a&gt;) include it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T15:41:55.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31540" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31522" CreationDate="2016-06-23T22:43:03.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there's one correct answer here, but the first two factions that come to mind for me:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pirates:&lt;/strong&gt; This faction has the ability to take out large numbers of minions at a time. Since you may be facing lots of minions coming back from the dead, clearing out an entire base in one action could be useful. Also, Pirates can move minions around from base to base pretty efficiently. You can use this to spread out forces, or bring your own to scoring bases, or pull enemies to a base to score it for yourself.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Aliens:&lt;/strong&gt; The Aliens faction, similar to pirates, can move minions around. Unlike the Pirates, they can send minions back into a player's hand &lt;em&gt;OR&lt;/em&gt; to the bottom of their deck. This is most helpful against Zombies because they can no longer play those minions from the discard pile.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="38" LastActivityDate="2016-06-23T22:43:03.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31541" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T23:36:28.883" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Billionaire&lt;/em&gt; (also called &lt;em&gt;You Can Be A Billionaire&lt;/em&gt;) is a 3-D board game involving moving marbles in a race to claim Uranium Strikes. It was published by Happy Hour, Inc. in 1956.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12820/billionaire&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T03:33:36.383" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T03:33:36.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31542" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T23:36:28.883" Score="0" Body="A 3-D board game involving moving marbles in a race to claim Uranium Strikes." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T03:33:28.663" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T03:33:28.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31543" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T23:41:59.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Battleship&lt;/em&gt; is a secret information game involving two players attempting to locate ships on the other player's grid. It was originally conceived as a pencil-and-paper game after World War I and was published by many companies in the 1930s. It became well known when a plastic peg-board version of the game was published by Milton Bradley in 1967.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2425/battleship&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battleship_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T00:10:20.500" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T00:10:20.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31544" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T23:41:59.473" Score="0" Body="A secret information game involving two players attempting to locate ships on the other player's grid." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T00:09:56.733" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T00:09:56.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31545" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-23T23:44:42.173" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Leader 1&lt;/em&gt; is a cycling race simulation game where players have to manage their energy in order to win the race. It was first published in 2008 by Ghenos Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36708/leader-1&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T00:09:44.890" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T00:09:44.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31546" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-23T23:44:42.173" Score="0" Body="A cycling race simulation game where players have to manage their energy in order to win the race." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T03:32:11.627" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T03:32:11.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31547" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1502" CreationDate="2016-06-24T01:08:25.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We play a lot of Citadels (3 games always, counting the points from previous games - makes 2nd and 3rd game from the start more competitive) and we have played with almost every combination so here is what I think:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Assassin&lt;/strong&gt; or Witch&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both can go&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assassin is simpler but sometimes makes my friends too frustrated - being killed twice in a few rounds makes them give up on the round&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Witch is nicer since player receive their action gold (or cards) but seems like whoever is 1st will pick her by default which is boring a bit IMO&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Thief&lt;/strong&gt; or Tax Collector&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Thief, thief, thief and only THIEF! Playing with the Tax Collector is just too simple, people build whatever they want by simply hoarding gold. Another aspect is that everyone do their best not to pay the tax so tax collector receives 1 gold max with 6 players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Magician or &lt;strong&gt;Wizard&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both good but pick depending on what you pick for number 7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Navigator can't go with Magician (what's the point of taking 4 new cards when someone will steal them the next round probably), Wizard can go with Navigator or Architect and it's less fatal but still feared a lot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;King&lt;/strong&gt; or Emperor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm a bit biased here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;personally I don't like the Emperor since somehow whenever we play with him one person keeps the crown for a very long time which is terrible&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the problem with the Emperor is that when he is killed the crown doesn't move&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;combining Witch with the Emperor is better since bewitched Emperor moves the crown&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;King is safe, easy to understand and goes better with Queen (speaking from experience)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;OT: killing the King is really stupid unless someone has 2-3 yellow districts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bishop&lt;/strong&gt; or Abbot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;we tried playing with Tax-Emperor-Abbot thinking there's gonna be a lot of gold exchanging between players and that Emperor and Abbot will help TaxC get more gold - we were wrong; don't play TaxC&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abbot is interesting but it really lacks that protect that Bishop offers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bishop is simple and yes, sometimes boring, but it makes the game more complex by not letting Warlord destroy a certain city that round and that's why Abbot is completely useless&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Merchant&lt;/strong&gt; or Alchemist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;both can go but Merchant usually wins&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Merchant's purpose is to get more gold - you get 1 extra plus 1 for every green district and let's face it, the deck is full of those&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with Alchemist you don't receive more gold, you just get back what you had so building more expensive stuff is only gonna work with other coloured cards, and there aren't many when 6 is grey&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with Alchemist, green district become useless and that's a turn off for the most of my friends&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never play with TaxC and Alchemist - its a disaster&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Alchemist and Navigator also don't work, Thief can steal mass gold you got from playing Navigator then Alchemist but then that Thief has mass gold and with Alchemist our bank is sometimes completely depleted&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;just play Merchant regularly, and play Alchemist sometimes to spice it up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Architect&lt;/strong&gt; of Navigator&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I strongly suggest Architect because without it there is no chance of someone rushing at the end by having 5 districts than building 3 with the Architect and therefore ending the game (which we really like and are constantly killing the architect near the end)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Navigator isn't that bad thought, if you don't miss those 3 districts at once from Architect&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can still build 2 districts in one round with Wizard hey (that's one more reason why Wizard always goes with Navigator)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warlord&lt;/strong&gt; or Diplomat&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warlord is the only card which reduces the number of districts someone has in their city (Armory as well yes, but that's one 1 district in the whole deck) and therefore is viable for a dynamic game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;with Diplomat you have a cool swapping tool but the number of districts remains always the same&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you can theoretically play Navigator and Diplomat (so that Architect can't build 3 districts) as opposed to Architect and Warlord but in my opinion Architect and Warlord are far more better&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;one gold districts are more useful in Diplomat game but if you can build a tavern for example when you are the Merchant you get that 1 gold you spent back and you shouldn't despair if it gets destroyed; if you collect the income twice it's your benefit&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Queen&lt;/strong&gt; or Artist&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;use Queen when there are 5-6 players, use Artist when there are more&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;using Queen when there are 7 or more players pretty much reduces the Queen's probability of success so use Artist &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Artist can be used always actually and it's pretty much needed if you built low-cost purple districts that give some serious advantages (MUSEUM) and you want to make it harder for Warlord to destroy it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I bolded the Queen instead of the Artist simply because she is more fun&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've bolded the combination we stick to mostly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17584" LastEditorDisplayName="user12487" LastEditDate="2019-02-06T22:40:37.333" LastActivityDate="2019-02-06T22:40:37.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31548" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T02:58:36.417" Score="2" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Our local 'standardized' system suggests we play Walsh. I wanted to know which of the bids under the following sequences are alertable according to WBF alerting policies, given 1C promises 3 and 1D promises 4 unless 4432:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1C - 1D - 1S (promise unbalanced distribution)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1C - 1D - 1NT (may conceal 4-card Majors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1C - 1H (may bypass longer Diamond unless GF) - 1S (promise unbalanced distribution)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1C - 1H - 1NT (bypass 4-card Spade)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12088" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T04:09:19.203" Title="Which of the Walsh bids are alertable?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31549" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31550" CreationDate="2016-06-24T06:44:59.090" Score="4" ViewCount="547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that a figure opens a door. Can it later be closed by either the Rebels or the Imperials (perhaps with the intention of blocking line of sight or hindering movement)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T06:55:14.463" Title="Can doors be closed in Imperial Assault?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31550" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31549" CreationDate="2016-06-24T06:55:14.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players cannot close doors after they are opened, only game effects can close an open doorway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/ef/86/ef866943-534b-429e-b8db-7d99875431b7/imperial_assault_rules_reference_guide.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt; (page 11 under &lt;strong&gt;Doors&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect closes a door, place a door token on the map as&#xA;  shown on the mission’s map. &lt;strong&gt;Figures cannot voluntarily close&#xA;  doors.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T06:55:14.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31551" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31552" CreationDate="2016-06-24T09:37:47.337" Score="1" ViewCount="717" Body="&lt;p&gt;A few days ago a new card named &lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/emn/cards/supplanterofidentity.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Supplanter of Identities&lt;/a&gt; was spoiled and I was wondering if you would target &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Medomai%20the%20Ageless&quot;&gt;Medomai the Ageless&lt;/a&gt; with the effect of the supplanter you could take infinite turns (if you get through).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A problem I could see with this theory is that Medomai might come back before the Supplanter changes back, making the legendary rule kick in, but I'm not sure if it works like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question is if this interaction works the way I think.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15531" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T14:09:53.457" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:12:00.673" Title="Does Medomai the Ageless + Supplanter of Identity give me infinite turns?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31551" CreationDate="2016-06-24T10:20:42.683" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you copy a legendary creature with Supplanter of Identity, the exiled creature will return first and the legend rule kicks in.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the turn structure, the last two steps are the End step and the Cleanup step. The creature exiled with Supplanter of Identity returns at the beginning of the end step, but Supplanter of Identity itself will remain a copy of that creature until the Cleanup step, causing the legend rule to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;512&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ending Phase&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;512.1. The ending phase consists of two steps: end and cleanup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;513&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;513.1. First, all abilities that trigger “at the beginning of the end step” or “at the beginning of the next end step” go on the stack. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;513.2. Second, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where the exiled legendary returns. The return trigger resolves, players would get priority, the legend rule (a state-based action) kicks in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5k If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their owners’ graveyards. This is called the “legend rule.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, the Supplanter returns to its original, if it's still on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;514&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cleanup Step&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;514.2. Second, the following actions happen simultaneously: all damage marked on permanents (including phased-out permanents) is removed and all “until end of turn” and “this turn” effects end. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note that if there is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Mirror%20Gallery&quot;&gt;Mirror Gallery&lt;/a&gt; in play, your combo would work.&lt;/strong&gt; Medomai's limitation of being unable to attack during extra turns only means it can't be declared as an attacker. However, it is the Supplanter that would be declared, who has no such limitation. The act of declaring it as an attacker triggers the its copy ability. Only now would it become a copy of Medomai, and it would keep attacking and creating extra turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T14:12:00.673" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:12:00.673" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31553" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31548" CreationDate="2016-06-24T13:01:01.450" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.acbl.org/tournaments_page/charts-rules-and-regulations/tournament-specific-regulations/alert-chart/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot; title=&quot;ACBL alert chart&quot;&gt;ACBL alert chart&lt;/a&gt; explicitly calls out several of these bids as non-alertable. The others (1M rebid promising unbalanced) is covered by the &quot;natural bids not otherwise mentioned&quot; section. So in the US, at least, none of these bids requires an alert.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T13:01:01.450" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31554" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:12:11.020" Score="0" ViewCount="571" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I reach a goal card that is a rock, can I put a path card going from that goal card to another one, even though that goal card dosen't have a path connected to it on that side? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17588" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T14:41:59.240" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:41:59.240" Title="Saboteur inbetween the goal cards" Tags="|saboteur|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31554" CreationDate="2016-06-24T14:41:23.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule is that you orient the goal card to connect with the path you added.  That goal card is now part of your path, and to add a path from there, it has to correctly match the path on the goal card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-06-24T14:41:23.097" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-24T15:11:25.203" Score="2" ViewCount="2163" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Civilization, when I attack a village, do I or the village receive some sort of combat bonus or extra standing force cards?  Also, the rule book for the game seems fuzzy on what combat bonuses actually do for you during a battle. I have played Civilization only once so far, and to me the battle system seems pretty random. Are there any recommendations you may have for buying certain units near the beginning before attacking a village or another player? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12723" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-06-24T18:22:10.813" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T22:36:21.927" Title="What advantages do you have when attacking a village in Civilization?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31557" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31556" CreationDate="2016-06-24T18:21:37.967" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You get several advantages when attacking a village.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;1. You are the attacker and know what units they have&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being the attacker means they must play the first unit.  Even if you have not bought any additional unit cards, have no combat bonuses, nor have any unit upgrades from technology, and attack with a single army, you can still win the battle off of this alone as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The village plays a unit (without loss of generality, let's say an archer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play the trump to that unit (in this case a horesman), killing it without taking damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The village plays the trump to your unit (a spearman), killing it without taking damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Etc. (you play an archer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Etc. (they play a horseman)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You kill their last unit (you play an infantry)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: you win, losing 2 units&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The big piece of variance here is the innate strength of the units.  Units range in base strength from 1 to 3.  A good draw for the village means they may have units that are stronger than yours, whereas a bad draw could leave them with units weaker than yours.  If the average strength in your deck is less than 2, do not attack a village with only one army.  Another problem here is that, while you win the battle and get the village token, you may lose your army since you lost 2 units in the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;2. You can bring more than three units&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By attacking with multiple armies and having bought extra units, you can attack with more that the three units.  Not only will this practically guarantee victory, it also gives you more options in terms of what to play, allowing you to send your worse units out first (causing them to die and improve the average strength in your unit deck) and have more options with trump units.  Here is an example battle with 5 units (assuming all units are base strength 2):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The village plays a unit (let's say an archer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play the unit that is trumped by that unit (in this case a spearman) on a new front, since they no longer have a unit that can trump it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The village already played the trump to your unit, so they must play the same type (a spearman), killing both&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play the unit that is the trump to their remaining unit, which you know because they always have the same unit composition (they have horseman left, so a you play another spearman)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They play their remaining unit (a horseman) on a new front, since anywhere else it would be trumped&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You play your remaining units on new fronts since there is no benefit to killing the village's units&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Result: you win, losing only one unit&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you could do this with only three units in your battle hand, it is much less likely, since it requires them to play a specific one of their units first, which they probably won't do (especially if they have been paying attention to your purchases).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;3. You can have combat bonuses&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A combat bonus is part of the determination of who wins the battle.  A battle consists of each side playing all of the units they are allowed to bring as a result of their battle hand size.  Units may be killed during the battle, and this death is permanent.  However, you need not kill units to win the battle.  The winner of the battle is the person with the highest total of strength of surviving units, plus their combat bonus.  So, while a combat bonus does nothing to keep your units alive, it helps in you being considered the winner of the battle, independent of what happened in the fighting.  Since villages always fight with 3 rank one units and have no combat bonus, the most strength a village can ever have at the end of a battle is 9, so a +10 combat bonus guarantees that you will beat a village regardless of what happens in the battle, even if you have no units in your deck to fight with!  Obviously this is an extreme example, but even in less extreme cases, combat bonuses help you get the village token regardless of in-battle losses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;4. Your units can be higher level&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the big one.  The other boons help you win, and having more units can help a lot.  This one helps a ton.  The villages always have the same units and their units are always level 1.  That means they deal at most 3 damage and have at most 3 health.  If any of the units you have in your battle hand are level 2 or level 3, that means you can now be running around with guys of 4 or even 5 strength; 3 strength also becomes much more common among your units.  With several level 3 units, you can sometimes win the battle without losing any units at all.  Leveling your units makes the threat of the village getting a good draw just so much less scary.  If there are still villages left by the time you get level 4 units, go pick them up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;5. You can use other technology abilities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can use abilities on technologies like &lt;code&gt;Mathematics&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;Animal Husbandry&lt;/code&gt; to help you win the battle.  The villages do not have any resource abilities at their disposal.  Spending a resource to win the battle can be a bit silly though, since beating the village may just give you the resource you spent to capture it (using an iron to capture a village that gives you an iron is not a great use of time or units).  The exception to this of course is if you have some other reason to want to win the battle, such as getting a coin on &lt;code&gt;Code of Laws&lt;/code&gt;.  Abilities like 'Animal Husbandry' though (which are free), can help you win a no-casualties battle, especially if you have higher level units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you don't get free units or inherent combat bonuses when fighting villages, but you do get to bring all of your technological might against their primitive army.  Consequently, fighting a village right out of the gate is probably a bad idea since that is when you have the fewest advantages.  Wait until you either have two armies and five units to bring to the battle, or until you've gotten a technology to level one of your units so that you only have to lose one or no units fighting the village.  These are the same things you will want for fighting other players as well.  The things you want to have are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Higher ranked units&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat bonuses from barracks/academies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More units (note that this requires you to have both more units in your reserves and multiple armies to allow you to bring extra units into battle) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One more thing to keep in mind: when fighting a village, killing their units doesn't matter; it's just about winning.  Consequently, don't waste your units that have a base strength of 3.  These units remain the best as you increase in technology; don't get them killed fighting barbarians.  Conversely, do lead with your units with a base strength of 1.  These units are not great to have in your deck and playing them early will not only cull them from your army, but will also force the barbarians to spend battle turns killing your crappy units instead of your good ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2017-06-08T22:36:21.927" LastActivityDate="2017-06-08T22:36:21.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31504" CreationDate="2016-06-25T00:52:22.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have always played that this is allowed. However, there are rule variations that might not allow it. You'll have to agree on what rules you want to play with and use those going forward.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, take a look at the rules found at &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/fishing/casino.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;pagat.com&lt;/a&gt; - I think this is where you pulled your rule excerpt from. Rule 5 (Adding to a Build) says there are two ways to add to a build. The second one is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may add to any build, single or multiple, by playing a card from your hand which, either alone or combined with other cards on the table which are not yet in builds, matches the existing capture number of the build, provided that you hold a card which can capture the combined build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here it says you can add to a build by utilizing a card in your hand and cards on the table that &lt;em&gt;are not yet in builds&lt;/em&gt;. Under this rule, your dad's move would not be allowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, further down, under &quot;Variations&quot;, the same page lists this variation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some players treat a single build exactly like a single card of the same value, for the purpose of capturing it or extending the build. For example, if there is a build of 6 (5+A) on the table and a loose 4, a player who holds a 10 can capture the 6-build and the 4, and a player who holds two 10's can combine one 10 from hand with the 6-build and the 4 to make a multiple 10-build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would allow your dad to make his move, since the 3 build that you've made would act just like a single-card 3. He could then add his 4 to it to make 7 and then a double 7 with his previous build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many sites out there with Casino rules on them, many with similar small (but important!) variations. Casino does not have as set rules as something like, for example, Bridge. Since it's a family game, you should take a look at the rule variations that exist and decide on what variations you wish to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T00:52:22.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31561" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31564" CreationDate="2016-06-25T01:19:47.423" Score="4" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you play a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383272&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hushwing Gryff&lt;/a&gt; as the last card from resolving &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382927&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eureka&lt;/a&gt; and stop abilities from triggering? Or does it only prevent the triggers of creatures put into the battlefield after it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5370" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T03:17:49.520" Title="When does Hushwing Gryff prevent abilities from triggering?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31562" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-25T02:03:30.333" Score="5" ViewCount="695" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the name of this game?&lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you play it? (if instructions cannot be easily found online)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board and Game Pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHRAM.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gHRAM.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board and Game Pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Board and Back of Game Pieces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8zIO.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/o8zIO.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Board and Back of Game Pieces&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game also includes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;12 White Poker Chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 Maroon Poker Chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Blue Poker Chips&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The pieces in the first image may not be in their proper places&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17595" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T02:23:40.017" LastActivityDate="2017-11-06T10:50:06.017" Title="What is this tile set with the card suites and numbers set in a 6x6 grid?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31564" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31561" CreationDate="2016-06-25T03:17:49.520" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;All enters-the-battlefield abilities on permanents that entered the battlefield before Hushwing Griff entered will trigger. Hushwing Griff will only stop the abilities of permanents that are put into play after it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eureka describes a sequence of events: each player, in turn order, puts permanents into play. Any triggered abilities on those permanents will trigger (or not) based on the state of the game as it enters. This is confirmed in a ruling by a level 2 judge in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/magic-rulings/magic-rulings-archives/305528-open-the-vaults-eureka-etb-triggers?comment=17&quot;&gt;this forum post&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An article on Gathering Magic has &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gatheringmagic.com/lesson-humility/&quot;&gt;a more directly relevant explanation involving humility&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Eureka and Hypergenesis however both work a bit differently, as they allow players to take turns putting cards onto the battlefield. &lt;strong&gt;This means that there is a window for a permanent to exist on the table without Humility in play, even if it is the second card that enters the battlefield from this effect.&lt;/strong&gt; So, if Angel of Despair is put in by the active player and the ability triggers. Non-active player puts Humility into play, there has been a period of time where Angel of Despair exists without Humility, although no future creatures that come into play off this spell will have abilities trigger, Angel of Despair's ability will trigger and can even target Humility. This works because while the ability has triggered, it cannot be put on the stack until a player can receive priority, which cannot happen until either Hypergenesis or Eureka has finished resolving.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T03:17:49.520" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31565" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31548" CreationDate="2016-06-25T04:02:41.447" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;&lt;em&gt;Two Over One Game Force&lt;/em&gt;&quot; by Max Hardy (1990), Hardy explicitly states that the responses of 1D, 1H and 1S over an opening of 1C are alertable (pp 297) and that the rebids of 1H, 1S and 1NT by opener after a response of 1D to a 1C opening are alertable (pp 301). This comment on page 301 suggests that opener's rebids over responders 1H call to a 1C opening are NOT alertable:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Very few of opener's rebids require an alert. These are the notable exceptions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Hardy was an Associate National Director for over 20 hears as well as an accomplished player and author, and arguably the most notable proponent of the Walsh system over the last quarter of the 20th Century.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardy notes in the appendix that, while a call may be natural in the meaning of the ACBL Alert and Conventions Charts, if it conveys additional agreement that the opponents cannot infer from the prior auction and a natural interpretation of the call, then &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;SAID CALL IS ALERTABLE&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T04:09:19.203" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T04:09:19.203" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31568" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:37:24.007" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Quadropolis&lt;/em&gt; is a tile placement game in which players compete for locations to add to their metropolis. The English edition was first published in 2016 by Days of Wonder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/176396/quadropolis&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:20:08.843" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:20:08.843" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31569" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:37:24.007" Score="0" Body="A tile placement game in which players compete for locations to add to their metropolis." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:19:59.187" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:19:59.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31570" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:43:56.743" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Masters of Venice&lt;/em&gt; is a 2009 game in which players compete for the most profitable trade goods. It was published by R&amp;amp;R Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with the 2002 &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24313/master-venice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Master of Venice&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; (singular).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/40276/masters-venice&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:19:53.157" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:19:53.157" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31571" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:43:56.743" Score="0" Body="A 2009 game in which players compete for the most profitable trade goods. Not to be confused with the 2002 &quot;Master of Venice&quot; (singular)." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:19:56.327" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:19:56.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31572" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:46:23.727" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Infernal Contraption&lt;/em&gt; is a card game about goblins racing to assemble dangerous magical machines. It was first released in 2007 by Privateer Press.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/29456/infernal-contraption&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:19:45.733" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:19:45.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31573" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:46:23.727" Score="0" Body="A card game about goblins racing to assemble dangerous magical machines." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:20:02.360" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:20:02.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31574" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:48:59.527" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Imperial 2030&lt;/em&gt; is a game based on &lt;em&gt;Imperial&lt;/em&gt;, in which world powers compete to become the most powerful nation. It was first released in English in 2009 by PD-Verlag and Rio Grande Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54138/imperial-2030&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:19:48.890" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:19:48.890" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31575" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-06-25T20:48:59.527" Score="0" Body="A game based on &quot;Imperial&quot;, in which world powers compete to become the most powerful nation." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-06-25T23:20:11.983" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T23:20:11.983" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31576" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14321" CreationDate="2016-06-25T21:07:32.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know it's a little late and the expansions may not have existed when you posted this, but there are two expansions to Resistance now that provide all of this and then some:  Hostile Intent and Hidden Agenda (just with the Dystopian Universe feel as opposed to Arthurian Legend feel).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For anyone else that already has Resistance, I would recommend this route as you will pay a little more price-wise and will get more than what is described above in the way of optional mechanics to the game.  Also, in addition, you will have a use for your current game as opposed to purchasing Avalon which will leave your old Resistance sitting on a shelf indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17560" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T21:07:32.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2862" CreationDate="2016-06-25T22:48:32.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played the game more than a dozen times (typically with 5 or 6 players) and the outcome seems to always be decided by a combination of the following:  1. Expanding your links asap!  2. Upgrading your locomotive asap!  3. Knowing that you can't play it 'safe' in this game (enter more debt than seems reasonable, take chances, and build for future deliveries)!  If you can balance these 3 aspects while resisting the desire for small gains, you'll stand a chance.  Having said this, I find it's not as easy as said and I still struggle with balancing all things together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17600" LastActivityDate="2016-06-25T22:48:32.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31578" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31604" CreationDate="2016-06-26T00:39:07.767" Score="4" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/pathfinder/adventureCardGame&quot;&gt;Pathfinder Adventure Card Game&lt;/a&gt; has 3 versions or base sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wrath of the Righteous&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rise of the Runelords&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Skull &amp;amp; Shackles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the difference between them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17601" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T15:35:33.330" Title="How do the various Pathfinder base sets differ?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33677" CreationDate="2016-06-26T07:45:33.853" Score="5" ViewCount="7126" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone help me remember the name of this game? We played it around 2005. It was an electronic game with a purple (I think) unit. There were no teams. Each player chose a color. All the participating colors checked in on the unit to start the game. There was no game board. The game then chose a color to take a turn. You would select a card and insert it into the unit. The game then decided if you had to describe it, draw it, or act it out. The game also chose which color you would be doing the card with. It was all completely random. The game unit kept up with the score and at the end announced how many points each color had earned. I think there were two electronic hosts, one male and one female. I distinctly remember the female voice slowly saying, &quot;Maybe you should try to act&quot;, slowly sounding out each letter in the word 'act'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17604" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T16:03:23.983" LastActivityDate="2018-11-20T15:39:15.373" Title="What is this game with cards you describe, draw, or act out, decided by an electronic unit?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31580" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31581" CreationDate="2016-06-26T08:07:23.403" Score="2" ViewCount="2670" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Monster Batteries card states that two energy cubes are fed back to the player every turn. Is it every turn of the game (my assumption)  or every turn of that player? &#xA;The card also reads that it is not discarded until the player receives the last energy cube back. My rationale on this (seeing as it is a &quot;keep&quot; card) is that you can replenish the stock of energy cubes in successive turns to receive more of the 2:1 bonus. Is this correct? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T10:15:13.347" Title="Clarification of cards in King of Tokyo" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31580" CreationDate="2016-06-26T10:15:13.347" Score="5" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is it every turn of the game (my assumption) or every turn of that player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right. Notice that &lt;strong&gt;Mimic&lt;/strong&gt; reads &lt;em&gt;At the start of your turn&lt;/em&gt;, while &lt;strong&gt;Monster Batteries&lt;/strong&gt; reads &lt;em&gt;At the start of each turn&lt;/em&gt;. Interpreting the cards literally also makes the batteries a card that might be worth buying. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;My rationale on this (seeing as it is a &quot;keep&quot; card) is that you can replenish the stock of energy cubes in successive turns to receive more of the 2:1 bonus. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Being a &lt;strong&gt;Keep&lt;/strong&gt;-card does not imbue it with more rules than are stated on the card. The only time you can put energy cubes on it is when you buy it. So you better have a fair number to make it worth your while. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17605" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T10:15:13.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31582" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31579" CreationDate="2016-06-26T12:53:46.877" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could this be &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12875/cranium-turbo-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cranium Turbo Edition&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uPAuW.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/uPAuW.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image of Cranium Turbo Edition game&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It has an electronic purple unit and 4 different types of activities: Data head (fun facts), Star performer (act &amp;amp; hum), Creative cat (sketch &amp;amp; sculpt), and Word worm (word puzzles).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T12:53:46.877" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31583" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31589" CreationDate="2016-06-26T19:20:48.960" Score="1" ViewCount="570" Body="&lt;p&gt;The first Monster in the game to obtain at least 1&#xA;attack dice deals no damage, but instead takes control of Tokyo, and moves its&#xA;figure to Tokyo City. &#xA;Does it mean if I have in my 1st roll an attack dice that I must go to Tokyo or I can re-roll that dice?&#xA;If I can re-roll it, and in my last round I obtain again an attack dice can I not use it(not go to Tokyo).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17607" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T22:46:31.037" Title="King Of Tokyo taking control of Tokyo" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31584" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3727" CreationDate="2016-06-26T19:53:20.523" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No you have to get the exact number to be able to win. If not you let the other person go until one of you gets the right number. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17608" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T19:53:20.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31585" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T20:24:45.110" Score="3" ViewCount="2657" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've got a question about Axis and Allies Spring 1942 edition.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a German fleet off the coast of England (cruiser, battleship, two subs, and two loaded transports), and the US attacked with two fighters and a bomber. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The subs can't defend against aircraft, but I believe are not considered &quot;submerged&quot;.  The cruiser and battleship were destroyed after two rounds of combat, leaving a bomber on the american side and two subs and transports on the German side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, are the transports &quot;defenseless&quot; and automatically destroyed? by the aircraft?  They are &quot;defended&quot; by submarines, but those subs can't &quot;do&quot; anything in this instance.  If it were ships attacking, presumably conflict would continue until it was resolved, but with air units I'm not sure.  We played that the transports were destroyed (to my irritation).  What's the technical ruling here?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&#xA;Nate&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17609" LastEditorUserId="17609" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T00:27:43.070" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T01:36:49.113" Title="Submarines and &quot;Defenseless&quot; Transports in Axis and Allies" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31586" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-26T20:52:40.783" Score="2" ViewCount="2258" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question for you. It's a question that came up last night in a poker game and is still being debated by the group. Some say split, some say one winner. Please let me know how you would score this hand (see pic below). Please tell me who won, or if there was a tie, and also what the series of cards would be for the winning hand or tie. Also, if you're aware of any game variations that are played that would make both sides of the debate right (unlikely). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not going to tell you what I think, because I don't want to bias your ruling. Just trying to get to the truth here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks so much!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9JZ9.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y9JZ9.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Debated Poker Hand&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17610" LastEditorUserId="17610" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T01:09:37.487" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T01:09:37.487" Title="Texas Holdem: How to Score this Hand - Single Pair, 3 kickers" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|scoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-06-27T06:10:32.847" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31586" CreationDate="2016-06-26T20:55:37.673" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a split. If you take the highest scoring set of five cards, each player is holding a double king, queen, ten and nine. The eight of clubs and four of hearts are never considered in scoring.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.idiotsguides.com/hobbies-and-crafts/card-games/how-to-play-texas-holdem/&quot;&gt;Here's&lt;/a&gt; an explanation of this five-card scoring rule. Especially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Five might be the most important number in poker, if only because five cards make a complete poker hand. This is true no matter how many cards you’re dealt, whether seven, as in seven-card-stud, or just two, as in Hold’em.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T20:55:37.673" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31588" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31478" CreationDate="2016-06-26T21:11:43.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I think going later tends to be a disadvantage, one case it can help is if a powerful aggressive race (like the Flames from Smallworld Underground) appears early. If the first player takes them, she's at a disadvantage because there's no one to attack. If she doesn't take them, she's at a disadvantage because a later player can beat her up using that race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately though, as LeppyR64 says in his answer, in a highly-interactive 3+ player game like this one it's up to the players to counteract such imbalances by attacking the leader.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T21:11:43.250" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31583" CreationDate="2016-06-26T22:46:31.037" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The dice are not resolved until after the third and final roll. So obviously you can reroll anything you don't want. Once the final roll is complete, the effects take place. If that includes an attack die, you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; go to Tokyo. Likewise in mid-game play, if you have an attack die in your final roll, your opponent will be attacked and can yield Tokyo (their choice) but if this happens, the attacker has no choice and must occupy Tokyo. &#xA;At the beginning when no one is in Tokyo,  if you roll and keep multiple attack dice, the first one doesn't count, but the remainder do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13919" LastActivityDate="2016-06-26T22:46:31.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31590" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T07:33:50.437" Score="3" ViewCount="100" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &quot;Welcome to the Dungeon&quot; in what order does the hero draw cards from the dungeon pile? So is the last card added to the dungeon drawn first or last?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In many cases this does not make a difference, but for example for a mage it may be important which card comes after the demon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3262" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:19:39.690" Title="In which order are cards drawn from the dungeon pile" Tags="|welcome-to-the-dungeon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31590" CreationDate="2016-06-27T08:25:27.763" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Al that the rules say is: &quot;Next, one by one, reveal the cards from the dungeon pile.&quot; I have always played that the cards are shuffled first, however this does not seem to be rules-as-written. I would suggest clarifying how you are going to do it at the start of the game and ensure every round is played the same way, whichever approach you choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6121" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T08:25:27.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31593" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31595" CreationDate="2016-06-27T12:16:44.347" Score="0" ViewCount="212" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Monarch, there's no way to know if a court card is a beast/garment. Such as for example: The court card Wardrobe Master states that &lt;em&gt;&quot;get 3 crown values per each GARMENT court cards&quot;&lt;/em&gt;. Is it just going to be a consensus among sisters if they consider a card as a garment card? Such as the &lt;em&gt;Ceremonial Comb&lt;/em&gt; court card? Or how about for beasts? Is a &lt;em&gt;pomeranian&lt;/em&gt; court card a beast?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14085" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T12:22:29.873" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T09:47:57.443" Title="For Monarch, how do you consider which are Garments and Beasts?" Tags="|monarch|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31594" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-27T13:47:16.000" Score="3" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;I didn't find any source explaining the &quot;origins&quot; or &quot;evolution&quot;, rather than just history of Go.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Book and article suggestions would also be helpful. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17618" LastEditorUserId="17618" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T13:57:28.637" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:09:03.663" Title="What is the origins and evolutionary track of Go game?" Tags="|go|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31595" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31593" CreationDate="2016-06-27T14:42:24.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've consulted &lt;a href=&quot;http://playmonarch.com/wp-content/uploads/20160104-monarch-instructions-revised-screenres.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the official manual&lt;/a&gt;.There, it says you can identify certain card sub-types by their emblems. All Beasts have a white beast-emblem printed behind the text, all Garments have a cloak, etc. Here's an excerpt from the rulebook, page 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSH0g.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cSH0g.png&quot; alt=&quot;Monarch rulebook, p.4&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the white emblem laced in the text on the lower part of the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, this exact question is featured in &lt;a href=&quot;http://playmonarch.com/faqs/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;their FAQ&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2017-09-07T09:47:57.443" LastActivityDate="2017-09-07T09:47:57.443" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31788" CreationDate="2016-06-27T14:46:05.160" Score="1" ViewCount="57" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the second edition of A Study in Emerald, Fenians have a one-use benefit that allows you to have agents count as two Bomb points instead of one. They also have a Bomb point on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for assassination say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each card that you play that has symbols on is worth Bomb points equal to the number of such symbols on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are playing the Fenians card to use their benefit at this time, does it also add its own Bomb point, or do cards played for Bomb points have to be played exclusively as such?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T15:07:52.183" Title="When using Fenians' benefit, do they also add their bomb value?" Tags="|a-study-in-emerald|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31597" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31598" CreationDate="2016-06-27T15:18:26.157" Score="1" ViewCount="123" Body="&lt;p&gt;In No-thanks, according to the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When finally a player decides to take the card (and all chips next to&#xA;  it), he puts it in front of himself face-up and takes the chips up in&#xA;  hand. After that, this player turns over the next card of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So assuming, player C took the card that players A, and B declined. So he now has that card + 2 chips. He then turns over the card and lucky him, it's a card close to his first card so he took it again, and the cycle repeats until there's only a few cards left in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We played the game and there was a specific scenario like this that luckily for one person, even though the shuffling was a bit random, the cards were close together that he just took almost all the cards (but of course in the end, he lost because there were gaps). But how about other players who weren't able to get a card due to one person's hoarding? Does that mean they get negative points (due to the chips plus the fact that they don't have a card)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14085" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-06-27T15:19:11.343" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T15:27:20.330" Title="No-thanks: What if a player has no card? | If a player hoards cards?" Tags="|no-thanks|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31598" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31597" CreationDate="2016-06-27T15:27:20.330" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, did you remember to randomly remove 9 cards from the deck? This would greatly reduce the chance of a player getting lucky enough for that to be a good idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than that, it is certainly possible that a player could get negative points (though I don't think I've seen it happen). If you have a player that is purposefully losing the game by just taking every card, and thus making the game unplayable for the other players, then it is simply an issue of sportsmanship, and not one of rules. The rules do not prevent a player from ruining the game in this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T15:27:20.330" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21137" CreationDate="2016-06-27T15:55:31.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can play this variant at &lt;a href=&quot;http://gamesbyemail.com/Games/WW2&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://gamesbyemail.com/Games/WW2&lt;/a&gt; in which one option is to have Russia unable to attack until attacked.&#xA;Having played 1 game this way, I believe it gives too much power to the Axis. The Germans can focus on Africa and can hold E. Europe and Ukraine for several turns, while Japan pulls all forces from the Russian northeast front and just pounds the Brits in India without resistance. It means Africa falls quickly, and the British have no hope of holding an Indian factory. The Axis can also afford to not need the 2 Pacific planes and carrier and can go on a Hawaiian and Australia/New Zealand conquering vacation. Then, when they have together nearly 80 IPC points, they can finally come in and use it all against Russia. &#xA;The Russians only trick they can play against this is to push Russian forces forward into Allied Zones (Sinkiang, ride with Allied convoys), because attacking them would release Russia from its obligations and frustrate the Axis wait and gain strategy. It isn't very effective, though, because Russia can't project into already-Axis areas. It can only maybe save China for a little while and protect a few Allied unprotected fleets (like the British home fleet on turn 1). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Totally overkill in my view. The 1-turn restriction is much more reasonable. If you need a bit more Axis help, maybe try extending it to 2 turns, but not indefinitely. Puts the Axis player in control. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T15:55:31.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11931" CreationDate="2016-06-27T16:04:56.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This would be an interesting variation. I'm thinking you would have to remove all 3 IPC from Brazil. The timing of when IPCs are delivered has a huge effect. Early IPCs allow the Germans to build up faster and drive Russia back, put a nice force into Africa quickly, or replace one of their lost fighters that they usually lose 1st turn. Even so, losing 3 IPC/turn from Brazil might not be as much of a factor as 12 IPC early. 3 IPC is only 1 less US infantry. The US threat builds over time, and is mainly in the form of retaking western Africa, threatening Europe, or reinforcing Karelia. All of these sap German resources. By turn 4 when the US had lost 12 IPC from the Brazilian removal, the US forces would already by doing most of the damage they could be doing, and the German lack of 12 IPCs would already be showing in the inability to expand as quickly. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why not just whack the US first production by 12 IPCs? You could justify it as a late start into the war because of Pearl Harbor and taking time to mobilize its defense industry. (Of course, in reality, the US defense industry was going quite heartily, supplying the Allied forces). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T16:04:56.860" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14219" CreationDate="2016-06-27T16:18:15.323" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;84 doesn't necessarily mean completely dominant. It can also mean overstretched. I've played games where the Axis was getting pressured by an inevitable European invasion and just managed to claim 84 points with some unsustainable Pacific overreach by the Japanese (grabbing Alaska or Panama, when the US would slam those forces within 2 turns). Another unsustainable scenario is the Axis having a fingernail hold on Africa, and just barely holding it with a few remaining infantry in the face of inevitable Allied onslaught. And with no way of adding German troops to Africa. &#xA;So, my answer is that 84 can be very tenuous. But given that most games result in an Allied shrinkage of Germany at some point, the 84 points gives the Axis player a chance at winning the game, even if they most likely will lose the war due to the many fronts they have to defend.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T16:18:15.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25126" CreationDate="2016-06-27T16:32:09.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your own air units don't move with carriers. They start the turn airborne in the sea zone. If they want to be in the same sea as the moved carrier, they have to move there. So, if you don't want them in the battle, just leave them in their original sea zone until the battle is over. If the carrier survives, land them during the non-combat phase. If the carrier dies, fly them to a friendly territory. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17602" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T16:32:09.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31603" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31514" CreationDate="2016-06-27T17:22:14.853" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is pretty common in other CCGs to play proxy cards. This is typically made up of a common card from the game being played, in a sleeve with a printed copy of the desired card, cut from plain paper and the same size as the other cards, placed in front of the proxy card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct to point out that the sleeves do make the cards, and subsequently the deck, thicker. I wouldn't bother with liner sleeves (the really thin ones). These are intended to protect cards placed into hard shells. I'd try to make it work with deck protector sleeves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12934" LastActivityDate="2016-06-27T17:22:14.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31604" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31578" CreationDate="2016-06-28T00:40:04.547" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In terms of system and rules all of the base sets are relatively similar with minor differences stemming from rules clarification and the system refinement that comes with the game makers continuing to improve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest differences are thematic ones, with different settings and characters for each set, for example Skull &amp;amp; Shackles has a ship based movement system, because it's set on the sea, whereas Rise of the Runelords and Wrath of the Righteous are land based.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The similarity is evidenced by the ability to use characters from one set in any of the others. However the adventures are designed to be started with new characters, so you wouldn't want to start with a previously leveled character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T00:40:04.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31585" CreationDate="2016-06-28T00:49:26.813" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You played the right way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, the turn continues until 1) all the defending forces are destroyed, or 2) all the attacking forces are destroyed or 3) the attacker elects to retreat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The defender cannot retreat. The exception is submarines, which can submerge (and retreat) if they get the right rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Earlier on, you might have taken at least one transport as a casualty (8 for the transport, 6 for e.g. two infantry units, 14 in total) to save your battleship (15), the unit that has the best chance (going forward) to fight back. Instead, when you sacrificed your battleship, you doomed your transports because they can't fight back.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-06-29T01:36:49.113" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T01:36:49.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31594" CreationDate="2016-06-28T04:09:03.663" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The following book has information on the origins and history of Go, as well as describing how to play it and explaining some strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/080483475X&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.amazon.com/More-Than-Game-Peter-Shotwell/dp/080483475X&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:09:03.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31607" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31590" CreationDate="2016-06-28T04:19:39.690" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the publisher, you do not shuffle the cards, you simply flip over the most recently added card, and then proceed, finally ending with the card that was added first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as you play you are building up the stack of dungeon cards, and then you go back through them in LIFO order (last in first out).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:19:39.690" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31373" CreationDate="2016-06-28T04:24:29.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have no idea at all what these are, but based on the complete lack of google entries, I am guessing they are homemade.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the three stats 'FrP', 'Gui', and 'Lck'.  I'm not sure what FrP is, but maybe the others are Guile and Luck?  Perhaps these are for some role playing game with those three character statistics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that these were printed by someone for a campaign in some role playing game, maybe even a homebrew RPG.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17471" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T04:24:29.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31579" CreationDate="2016-06-28T07:10:38.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description reminded me of Taboo. Therefore, I googled for an electronic version of the game and got two hits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00IFWSMMS&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Taboo Buzz'd&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/images/boardgameversion/96586/platinum-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Electronic Taboo (Platinum Edition)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not know these versions so I do not know if they match the rest of your description but I hope one of these two is the game you are looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15438" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T07:10:38.300" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31610" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31613" CreationDate="2016-06-28T08:26:56.553" Score="1" ViewCount="519" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jets says&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You suffer no damage when yielding Tokyo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the monster in Tokyo has 3 health and he should receive 3 attacks, he should die or he can just leave Tokyo?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In 5 players game Gigazour is in Tokyo, Tokyo Bay is free and CyberBunny 8 health rolled 2 heal and 3 attack (Gigazour doesnt't want to leave Tokyo). So CyberBunny can recover 2 heal, then &#xA;hits 3 times Gigazour and then go to Tokyo Bay, right?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17607" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T13:13:28.923" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:17:05.393" Title="King of Tokyo card question+ dice read" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31613" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31610" CreationDate="2016-06-28T13:17:05.393" Score="3" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's basically the point of the card.  Here's a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/742381/jets-card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG thread&lt;/a&gt; confirming it.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;CyberBunny is not currently in Tokyo, so he is definitely able to heal.  And since he is not in Tokyo, the damage he deals is applied to monsters in Tokyo.  Since Gigazour does not leave Tokyo, CyberBunny is placed in Tokyo Bay.  So yes, your resolution is correct. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T13:17:05.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31614" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31522" CreationDate="2016-06-28T16:21:46.280" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think that one of the best pairs to face &lt;strong&gt;ninja-zombies&lt;/strong&gt; would actually be more unconventional. I have found that &lt;strong&gt;robot-wizards&lt;/strong&gt; do extremely well against that match for a few reasons. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The first is that they don't focus on killing your opponent's minions at all. This means that they focus entirely on their own thing and don't waste cards killing your opponent's zombies.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The second reason is that they build themselves up &lt;em&gt;a lot&lt;/em&gt;. If your opponent manages to kill something (seeing stars), then you still have a base full of &lt;strong&gt;microbots&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;chronomages&lt;/strong&gt; to score easily.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;The final reason is that &lt;strong&gt;ninja-zombies&lt;/strong&gt; are very inconsistent. They cant draw as much and portions of their hand will always be useless. This makes cards like &lt;strong&gt;tech center&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;winds of change&lt;/strong&gt; very useful because you can always have the cards you need.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I don't know what your preffered play-style is, but &lt;strong&gt;robot-wizards&lt;/strong&gt; works very well against most factions. You just need to watch out for pirates and trickster because of base blocking and large removal cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastEditorUserId="15155" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T18:06:55.823" LastActivityDate="2016-06-28T18:06:55.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31615" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31693" CreationDate="2016-06-28T19:27:43.057" Score="1" ViewCount="53" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monster My Neighbor the Rumor card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player draws 1 card from the hand of the player to their right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How is this card resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assumed that the player playing the card would draw a card from the player to their right, and then each player, clockwise, would follow, but the rules doesn't clarify this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11928" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-06-28T19:48:40.907" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T20:16:25.153" Title="In Monster My Neighbor, how is the Rumor card resolved?" Tags="|monster-my-neighbor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31617" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-28T23:14:02.047" Score="4" ViewCount="2538" Body="&lt;p&gt;Of course if you have cards to buy a settlement you can buy a road, but I want to buy a settlement first in case my cards get stolen by another player. Can I buy the settlement first and not place it anywhere until I have a road network that would allow me to place it in accordance to the distance rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17632" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T22:08:36.447" Title="I have cards to buy a road or settlement, can I buy settlement first and not place it on the board?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31617" CreationDate="2016-06-29T00:00:34.860" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules never talk about &lt;em&gt;buying&lt;/em&gt; a settlement, they always talk about &lt;em&gt;building&lt;/em&gt; a settlement, and there is no mention of being able to hold a settlement in reserve after paying for it. On the basis that the rules tell you specifically what you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do, then when you build a settlement you &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; place it on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T00:00:34.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31619" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31617" CreationDate="2016-06-29T00:10:44.833" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you may not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As per the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, under &quot;Build&quot; (on page 4) it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Take the appropriate number of roads, settlements, and/or cities from your supply and place them on the game board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An explicit part of the building process is putting the built items onto the board, so no, you can't buy it and place it later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15276" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T00:10:44.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8663" CreationDate="2016-06-29T12:21:20.817" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We haven't got to the 2nd act yet, but so far I feel the opposite. The game is weight heavily against the OL.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heroes have more HP. Half of your heroes have more HP than even the red dragon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heroes can do more per turn. Heroes can move a bit using fatigue and then perform 2 attacks. Monsters can attack only once and don't have extra movement for fatigue. It is especially frustrating if dragon is located in front of the door and the heroes would open the door and shoot him with a crossbow to move him back one space and close the door again. The heroes spent 3 actions, the dragon is rendered useless for the next turn (he can only approach the door and open it, no action for attack)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Heroes consequences of &quot;dying&quot; are much lighter. Even if 3 of your guys have fallen (in a rare case, which most likely required the OL to use almost all of his cards), true, the OL gets 3 cards, but all the heroes have to do is for one of them just to use one of his 2 actions to raise another one, which in turn would raise another one. So, this means that the heroes will loose half of their actions and can raise their whole team the same turn and still act. Well, with monsters it is much worse, usually you can't raise that many, they appear half way across the map from the place of battle, they can't act the turn they appear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The OL is not adequately strengthened as there get to be more heroes in the game. Usually the really cool stuff can only be performed by a red monster (like fire breath or heal), but the more heroes there are the more synergy they get and what to monsters get? Usually they get more white useless guys... Except red dragon fire breath, what can be compared to mage's explosion? But mage does that twice per turn and does not need &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Often heroes kill one monster group during their first turn. Usually there are 2 to 3 monster groups in act I encounters. Heroes get the first turn, which often allows them to decimate one of the monster groups. So when the OL really starts his first turn with only 1 to 2 groups...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Among OL cards there seems to be no adequate substitute for heroe's search cards that allow you to heal completely instantly. 12-14 hp heal without even spending an action? Seriously?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17639" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T12:21:20.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14555" CreationDate="2016-06-29T21:37:14.467" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Apologies if I've used any wrong terms. I've only got the German version and translated names and things myself. Feel free to fix them if they don't match the English version of the game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The intro legend is definitely possible with any pair of heros. With some combinations it's definitely not trivial, but I quite liked that about it, that it immediately drives home the point that this game has a strong puzzle component, where you need to plan your collaborative actions to achieve the goals with the limited resources you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Provided I didn't make any mistakes, below are &quot;walkthroughs&quot; for all 6 possible pairs of heros for the very first legend card on the intro legend. The trickiest one is probably the dwarf and ranger combination. Also for most of these, the solutions are not unique (maybe for all of them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The number in parentheses represents the number of hours remaining for that particular hero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dwarf &amp;amp; Warrior:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 13 (fog; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior → 5 (well; 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 17 (coins; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior passes (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 18 (merchant; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior → 0 (castle; 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dwarf &amp;amp; Ranger:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 17 (coins; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 13 (fog; 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 18 (merchant; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 5 (well; 1). &lt;em&gt;Note that this path goes through the castle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf passes (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 0 (castle; 0)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dwarf &amp;amp; Mage:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 17 (coins; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 11 (fog; 5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf → 18 (merchant; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 5 (well; 3). &lt;em&gt;Note that this path goes through the castle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf passes (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 0 (castle; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warrior &amp;amp; Ranger:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior → 5 (well; 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 13 (fog; 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior passes (3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 17 (coins; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior passes (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 18 (merchant; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior → 0 (castle; 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Warrior &amp;amp; Mage:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior → 17 (coins; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 11 (fog; 5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior → 18 (merchant; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 5 (well; 3). &lt;em&gt;Note that this path goes through the castle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Warrior passes (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 0 (castle; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ranger &amp;amp; Mage:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 17 (coins; 4)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 11 (fog; 5)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger → 18 (merchant; 3)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 5 (well; 3). &lt;em&gt;Note that this path goes through the castle.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ranger passes (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mage → 0 (castle; 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this is only the first part of the intro legend, and there's quite a lot more to it. However, I can't really give a detailed walkthrough for this, because the actual outcome depends partly on luck and you'll have to improvise a bit. I suppose, if you have really bad luck it might be impossible to solve it, but we did manage to get through on the first try. It definitely required some thinking though, and the game is supposed to be challenging.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm sure there's other ways to solve it, but if you want a hint, here's a neat trick which helped us make it through to the end and which probably applies to most if not all pairs of heros:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote class=&quot;spoiler&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt; Once we got the final (non-ending) legend card on &quot;day&quot; H, we had one character pick up the scroll and the other move to a field around 36. So on the next turn we could do a sort of torch relay, where the first character brings the scroll to 36, hands it off to the other one who can then use their own moves to get to 71. There we waited for two turns to let the Skral pass and then the goal can easily be reached within one turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;br&gt;&#xA; One thing worth noting is that we really needed to use up the monster slots in the top left corner. Every killed monster is &quot;worth&quot; a day, and you'll easily reach day N if you try to kill them all. Note that the monsters that spawn on step H can't really reach the castle at all (the same was true of a few other monsters in our case). Their only point is to create a bottleneck near field 39 on the rush to the goal. Every monster that you allow to reach the castle is one more turn you've got to reach the goal, so it's definitely a trade-off worth considering (and probably necessary to some degree).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9914" LastActivityDate="2016-06-29T21:37:14.467" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31624" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31625" CreationDate="2016-06-29T22:52:40.360" Score="1" ViewCount="1300" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing with the Cities, Babel, Leaders, and Wonder Pack expansions for 7 Wonders. There was a situation last night where two players attempted to look through the discard to play a card at the end of Age III.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: which player gets to look through the discard first? Is there any specific game-balancing reason why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17647" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T00:26:04.783" Title="7 Wonders Look Through Discard Order" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|7-wonders-leaders|7-wonders-babel|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31625" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31624" CreationDate="2016-06-29T23:41:12.900" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the FAQ at the end of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/index.php?page=download-12&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wonder Pack rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If multiple players take cards from the discard pile during a given turn, the resolution order is the following: Halikarnassós, The Great Wall, Manneken Pis, Salomon and finally, the Courtesan’s Guild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that nobody thought too hard about balance here: it's important for there to be &lt;em&gt;some&lt;/em&gt; order, but it's rare enough and minor enough that it barely matters which. Instead, note that a copy effect always comes after the thing it's copying: Manneken Pis after the other wonders, and Courtesan's Guild after the leader. I'd speculate that this was designed for feel rather than for balance - some players might think it unfair or unintuitive if an opponent could copy their effect before they'd gotten to use it themselves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Continuing with the speculative post hoc justifications: imagine a game with one of the wonders in play and one of the cards. The person holding the card can see the wonder. The person with the wonder, however, might not even know there's a conflict since they might not know that the card is in play, so it would be quite reasonable for them to build the wonder stage and then grab the discard pile immediately and start looking through it. Rather than make this behavior wrong, the rule just codifies it as the canonical order: wonders before cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T00:26:04.783" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T00:26:04.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31639" CreationDate="2016-06-30T08:29:09.277" Score="13" ViewCount="801" Body="&lt;p&gt;This may stray a bit into philosophy, but  I believe it has some real-world impacts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many games rank players during the game, and some leave players in some sort of order at the end (ie. a 'score'). &#xA;An example of this is Settlers of Catan, or Pandemic: Contagion&#xA;Each player has a number of points an any time, and at the end of the game, the person with the most points is declared the winner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of rulebooks have wording like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The person with the highest score overall wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Pandemic: Contagion&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have &lt;strong&gt;10 or more&lt;/strong&gt; victory points &lt;strong&gt;during your turn&lt;/strong&gt; the game ends and you are the winner &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the end of the 10th game round, the House that controls the most areas containing either a Castle or a Stronghold is declared the winner. If, at any time during the game, a player controls seven such areas, that player immediately wins the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;A Game of Thrones. The Board Game&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These phrases seem to indicate that there is only a winner, and the remainder all lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other games (semi coopoerative games) there is sometimes &lt;em&gt;no&lt;/em&gt; winner &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/910342/player-psychology-2nd-place-vs-group-loss-semi-coo&quot;&gt;Semi cooperative games&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;In such games, it is strongly implied that when the group loses, there is no 'second place' etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lots of people I have played with sometimes infer that there is an implicit second place due to the fact that at the end of the game players are still ranked by score. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So there are two aspect to this that I think are slightly related:&#xA;- Is it correct to infer positions beyond &lt;em&gt;winner&lt;/em&gt; based on these scores?&#xA;- Does doing so affect gameplay?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Is it correct to infer positions beyond &lt;em&gt;winner&lt;/em&gt; based on these scores?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are probably two ways of looking at this &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the end of the game, you take all the markers off the scoreboard, and put them in two piles: The Winner, and everyone else. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The other way is to say that the person with the second most points did 'second best' at the game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would argue that the 1st interpretation is correct for the victory condition given in Settlers of Catan, given its wording. Other games are maybe less clear. Some rules books explicitly say whether there are positions beyond 'winner'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interpretation 2. makes some questionable assumptions about how the score reflects how well that player played. For example, if in A Game of Thrones I make a decision that gives another player their seventh castle, the fact I have the second-most castles should probably not be a consolation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, some games allow 'long play' strategies in which case they may have won had some other circumstance not ended the game early. The fact that even though they might have one given more time still doesn't mean they win, also seems to imply they shouldn't receive some kind victory for second.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does doing so affect gameplay?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that it probably does. &#xA;From my experience, it definitely seems to effect gameplay in Settlers of Catan. &#xA;When two players are behind a leader, it benefits them embargo the leader and work for mutual benefit. With a second place, they have to weigh up how much second place means to them against the possibility of beating the first player, leading to less cooperation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another situation is where a player will cause the game to end voluntarily when they are not winning, perhaps to preserve a second place. If there is no second place, then there is definitely no incentive to do this from a gameplay perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another scenario may be that given a choice between a high probablility at moving from third to second highest score before game end, and a low probability of moving from third to first highest score, the player needs to make a choice if there is a second place, else it's not a decision at all. Players should always take the options that might give them 1st.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Semi-cooperative games seem to make the issue even more stark; in those games if the group loses, then a second place makes little sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has anyone written any articles on this subject?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What do most gaming groups choose for resolving this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17651" LastEditorUserId="17651" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T08:36:06.670" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T01:11:54.460" Title="Is it correct to infer a second, third etc place in board games with a score?" Tags="|game-theory|psychology|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31628" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-06-30T13:57:29.407" Score="1" ViewCount="81" Body="&lt;p&gt;Who takes the trick in All Five (&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_Fours#All_Fives&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a variant of All Fours&lt;/a&gt;) if the 10 and Ace are played from the trump suit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Ace has 4 pts but the 10 has 10 points. The rules say that the Ace is the highest ranking card. I am confused.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17653" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-27T22:40:14.920" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T22:40:14.920" Title="Who takes the trick in All Five (variant of All Fours) if the 10 and Ace are played from the trump suit?" Tags="|all-fours|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31629" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31631" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:30:47.657" Score="3" ViewCount="1188" Body="&lt;p&gt;Scenario:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Victor controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVedalken%20Orrery%5d&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt; (&lt;code&gt;You may cast nonland cards as though they had flash&lt;/code&gt;). It's Daniel's turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Daniel swings with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDaxos%20of%20Meletis%5d&quot;&gt;Daxos of Meletis&lt;/a&gt;, not blocked.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The triggered ability happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Daxos of Meletis deals combat damage to a player, exile the top card of that player's library. You gain life equal to that card's converted mana cost. Until end of turn, you may cast that card and you may spend mana as though it were mana of any color to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The top card is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMisthollow%20Griffin%5d&quot;&gt;Misthollow Griffin&lt;/a&gt; (creature that has &lt;code&gt;You may cast Misthollow Griffin from exile.&lt;/code&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Daniel can play it because of Daxos, Victor can play it because of it's ability + the Orrery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who can cast it first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if Daniel also controlled a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVedalken%20Orrery%5d&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T14:44:57.997" Title="What happens if multiple people can cast the same card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31630" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31629" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:38:59.463" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Victor can cast it first, unless Daniel has an Orrery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is that Daxos' ability resolves, but we're still in combat damage step.  At that time, both players get priority (Daniel first), and since Daniel can't cast the Griffin (not a main phase with empty stack), Victor can when he gets priority. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Daniel has an Orrery, he gets priority first since it is his turn, so he has the chance to cast it before Victor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T14:38:59.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31629" CreationDate="2016-06-30T14:44:57.997" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one player controls a Vedalken Orrery that player gets to cast the Griffin first, if both control an Orrery the player whose turn it is gets to cast it first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Griffin gives you permission to cast it from a different location than normal (exile vs. hand), but doesn't change when you can cast it. Daxos also doesn't change when you can cast the exiled card, so without the Orrery normally you can only cast the Griffin during your Main Phase while the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens is during the Combat Damage step Daxos's ability is put on the stack and resolves. After it resolves the Active Player (Daniel) gains priority, and can choose to cast spells/activate abilities at this time. So if he has an Orrery and wants to cast the Griffin he can. If he can't or doesn't want to cast the Griffin he will pass priority to the Non-Active Player (Victor) who will then get the chance to cast spells/activate abilities including the Griffin if he has an Orrery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.1a&lt;/strong&gt; A player may cast an instant spell any time he or she has priority. A player may cast a noninstant spell during his or her main phase any time he or she has priority and the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3b&lt;/strong&gt; The active player receives priority after a spell or ability (other than a mana ability) resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.3d&lt;/strong&gt; If a player has priority and chooses not to take any actions, that player passes. If any mana is in that player’s mana pool, he or she announces what mana is there. Then the next player in turn order receives priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T14:44:57.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31632" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31634" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:05:07.190" Score="6" ViewCount="1063" Body="&lt;p&gt;Folks, I would like to know if an effect like &quot;players can't draw cards&quot; prevents/cancel effects like &quot;if you would draw a card, instead do X&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because I wouldn't draw a card anyway, the effect does not takes place?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a concrete example, think on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152546&quot;&gt;Maralen of the Mornsong&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForbidden%20Crypt%5d&quot;&gt;Forbidden Crypt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14492" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T16:32:28.460" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:41:30.317" Title="&quot;Would draw&quot; with &quot;Can't draw&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31633" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31632" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:22:04.300" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can't beats can. So when something tells you to draw a card (say the beginning of your draw step), and Maralen telling you that you can't draw cards you do not get to draw a card. Since you are not drawing a card the Crypt's replacement effect doesn't have a chance to apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.2.&lt;/strong&gt; When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can’t happen, the “can’t” effect takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.7.&lt;/strong&gt; If a replacement effect would replace an event, but that event never happens, the replacement effect simply doesn’t do anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:41:30.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31634" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31632" CreationDate="2016-06-30T16:23:19.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ruling on Maralen seems to support your conclusion that nothing happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;4/1/2008: While Maralen is on the battlefield, replacement effects that instruct a player to do something instead of drawing a card won't work.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2016-06-30T16:23:19.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31635" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31628" CreationDate="2016-06-30T17:10:18.167" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Rank matters during play; points during scoring.&lt;/strong&gt; So during play the ace is the best and will take the trick, but during scoring it's more important to have collected the 10 than to have collected the ace. This non-alignment of rank and score can make the strategy more interesting - if ace were highest scoring, you could just play the ace and you'd collect all those points for sure, but collecting tons of points off of a lowly ten takes much more skill.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T08:29:37.177" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T08:29:37.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31636" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31638" CreationDate="2016-06-30T21:56:01.600" Score="5" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;With &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSedris%2c%20the%20Traitor%20King%5d&quot;&gt;Sedris, the Traitor King&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, I pay the 2B cost to unearth a creature. Then I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRescue%20from%20the%20Underworld%5d&quot;&gt;Rescue from the Underworld&lt;/a&gt; and sacrifice the card that was just unearthed. I understand that the creature will go to exile instead of in the graveyard, but will it still be returned to the battlefield later ? Do you know other cards that could &quot;save&quot; a unearthed creature to go into exile ? Thank you very much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13212" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-06-30T22:05:21.377" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T13:27:53.900" Title="Rescue from the Underworld on an unearthed creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31637" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28756" CreationDate="2016-06-30T22:10:47.377" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds a lot like &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Picture_Gallery_(solitaire)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Picture Gallery Solitaire&lt;/a&gt;, a game that was put out for Palm. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe you can find an implementation on SourceForge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17658" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T02:57:33.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T02:57:33.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31638" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31636" CreationDate="2016-06-30T22:11:06.130" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will get the card back after it goes to exile because it doesn't say to return the card from the graveyard, rather just return 'that card'. From the Gatherer rulings on Rescue from the Underworld:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;However, if the sacrificed creature is put into another public zone instead of the graveyard, perhaps because it’s your commander or because of another replacement effect, it will return to the battlefield from the zone it went to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The unearth creature going to exile instead of the graveyard is a replacement effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, effects cannot find objects that change zones. There are eight exceptions to this rule, and you found one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are eight exceptions to this rule:&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;[...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;400.7h If an effect causes an object to move to a public zone, other parts of that effect can find that object. If the cost of a spell or ability causes an object to move to a public zone, that spell or ability’s effects can find that object.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other ways of getting around the exile part of Unearth involve other cards that are worded like Rescue (specifically ones that do not specify the zone the card needs to be in to move), and ones that 'blink' or 'flicker' a creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloudshift%5d&quot;&gt;Cloudshift&lt;/a&gt; that exile the creature and return it either immediately or at some time in the future.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T13:27:53.900" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T13:27:53.900" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31639" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31627" CreationDate="2016-07-01T06:41:36.520" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tl;dr: Players' meta-goals do affect gameplay. And unless all players have the same goals, the entire concept of &quot;best player&quot; isn't well defined, let alone &quot;second best&quot;, etc.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First a bit of game-theory framework. Let's say each player has a &quot;utility function&quot; which takes as input the game end-state and gives as output how much &quot;utility&quot; they get - an abstract stand-in for happiness, bragging rights, etc. As an example, you might assign yourself 10/1/0 utils for getting 1st/2nd/3rd highest score in the game. &lt;strong&gt;A player's ultimate goal is &lt;em&gt;solely&lt;/em&gt; to maximize their own expected utility, regardless of how much their opponents get.&lt;/strong&gt; (Most utility functions in most games, however, are set up so that maximizing your own utility also minimizes your opponents' - e.g. if all players are using that example function, then to maximize yours you have to get more in-game points than everyone else, which minimizes theirs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Your choice of utility function absolutely affects gameplay.&lt;/strong&gt; You give a bunch of accurate examples of this, so I won't go into it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the philosophy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There isn't one &quot;correct&quot; utility function.&lt;/strong&gt; Some games may have been made with one in mind - as you mention, some rules emphasize the winner while others tell you how to rank the players. But if one player is almost as happy with 2nd as 1st and another only really celebrates when they win outright, neither is likely to convince the other that they're &lt;em&gt;wrong&lt;/em&gt;. Not only that but in most situations there's no need to - these two can happily play at the same table, each pursuing their slightly different goals. (Though as a sidenote, if these differences in goals remain hidden then some moves may appear irrational. This can lead to hard feelings, so it can be a good idea to discuss where you stand on this spectrum before you play.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, players who are playing with different functions are effectively playing (perhaps only slightly) different games. After all, since function affects gameplay, what is objectively a good move for one player might be a bad move for another! Thus if your goal in &quot;inferring positions beyond the winner&quot; is to determine how good the players are at the game relative to each other, well you can't even be certain about inferring that the winner is the best, let alone the other places!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a concrete example, let's say you have a 3-player game in which Alice is average - say she can get 1st/2nd/3rd place 30%/40%/30% of the time. Bob starts out &lt;strong&gt;objectively better&lt;/strong&gt; - he can get 1st/2nd/3rd place 35%/60%/5%. Then Alice decides she hates getting second and from now on makes a desperation push for 1st every single time, which fails more often than not, so her new values are 40%/0%/60%. I will now tell two stories. In the first story, Bob knows how to do the desperation move but he's happy with second place so he doesn't think it's worth it. Thus Alice wins more often than Bob (40% vs 35%), but Bob is still the better player. In the second story, there's a massive cash prize awarded to first place, and Bob can't figure out how to pull off that desperation move himself - he watches in frustration as Alice walks away with the prize 40% of the time. In this story, the percentages are &lt;strong&gt;exactly the same&lt;/strong&gt; but this time Alice is clearly the better player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus, unless you have a way of forcing everyone to use the same utility function, you might be unable to determine any rank - even best player - since the entire &lt;em&gt;concept&lt;/em&gt; of best player isn't well defined. Luckily, this isn't usually a big problem since the people who really want to rank the players often &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; have a way of forcing everyone to use (roughly) the same utility function: those people are tournament hosts and that way is prizes. So when you're playing for fun you're welcome to your own concept of victory, and when you're in a tournament, well the prize for 1st in the second story above is not only the &lt;em&gt;reward&lt;/em&gt; for being the best but also the &lt;em&gt;reason we can define&lt;/em&gt; who's the best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-01T08:11:58.060" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T08:11:58.060" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31640" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31513" CreationDate="2016-07-01T08:41:19.570" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The minimum turn score for &lt;em&gt;a 7-letter word&lt;/em&gt; is 5, supposing that the 7 tiles are both blanks and 5 1-point tiles, no premium squares were covered in that turn, and fewer than 7 tiles were played in that turn (that is, at least one tile in that word had been played earlier).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The minimum turn score for &lt;em&gt;playing 7 tiles&lt;/em&gt; in one turn is 56, not 55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the board is empty, the word played will get doubled, and so will score at least 5*2+50=60.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If none of the tiles played hooks anything, they make a word of 8 or more letters. If any of the tiles played hooks anything, 8 or more tiles will be involved in the score: the 7 played and at least one other in at least one hook word. These 8 tiles will score at least 6 before the bonus is added.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17661" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T08:41:19.570" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31641" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31345" CreationDate="2016-07-01T09:29:51.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The app &lt;a href=&quot;http://people.csail.mit.edu/jasonkb/quackle/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Quackle&lt;/a&gt; has the useful feature of giving its valuation of those plays it lists. By comparing its valuations of various options in various circumstances I found out that Quackle values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaving 1 tile in the bag at +10&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;leaving 2 tiles in the bag at +7&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The point is: once there are not many tiles in the bag, provided that there's a decent chance that you can go out, if you play, draw tiles, and leave 1 tile in the bag, your opponent must either&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;score 0, or&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;empty the bag, giving you the first opportunity to go out.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another endgame tactic which comes into play slightly earlier is that if the number of tiles in the bag is 7 or not much larger, and you have an awkward tile like Q or J or V which would hinder your chances of going out, seriously consider exchanging because it might be your last opportunity to. In the endgame, try to go out. (I went out in 60% of my club games.) Alternatively, it might happen that it's a good idea to play so as to prevent your opponent going out -- but for you to know that, and to know what to try to do, you need to either track tiles or do a grand totting up of tiles so that you can work out your opponent's rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17661" LastActivityDate="2016-07-01T09:29:51.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31644" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-01T20:31:06.847" Score="0" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any rule difference between Capsa (Indonesia), Big two (USA) and Daifugō (Japan)?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Can someone explain it to me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17663" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-26T21:36:01.157" LastActivityDate="2022-03-07T08:11:14.463" Title="Different between Capsa, Big two and Daifugō" Tags="|playing-cards|variants|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31645" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:13:35.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pachisi&lt;/em&gt; is a pawn-moving board game that originated in ancient India. The westernized version is called &quot;Parcheesi&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2136/pachisi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pachisi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:06.510" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:06.510" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31646" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:13:35.563" Score="0" Body="A pawn-moving board game that originated in ancient India. The westernized version is called &quot;Parcheesi&quot;." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:13.087" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:13.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31647" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:22:45.967" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Kingsport Horror&lt;/em&gt; is the second large-box expansion for Fantasy Flights' Arkham Horror board game. Released in 2008, it introduced several new game mechanics, such as Heralds, Guardians, Epic Battles, and Rifts. It also includes eight new Investigators and four new Ancient Ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:10.023" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:10.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31648" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:22:45.967" Score="0" Body="Kingsport Horror is the first large-box expansion for Fantasy Flights' Arkham Horror board game." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:21.370" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:21.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31649" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:26:21.177" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mille Bornes&lt;/em&gt; is a French card game in which players race to be the first to drive 1000 km and avoid hazards along the way. The original French version was first released in 1954 by Dujardin. The English version was first released by Waddingtons Games in 1960.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:03.773" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:03.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31650" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:26:21.177" Score="0" Body="A French card game in which players race to be the first to drive 1000 km and avoid hazards along the way." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:00.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:00.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31651" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:35:00.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Maharaja&lt;/em&gt; is a worker placement and resource management game where players compete to build the best Indian palaces. It was first published in 2004 by Phalanx Games B.V.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9440/maharaja-game-palace-building-india&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:08:55.383" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:08:55.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31652" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:35:00.123" Score="0" Body="A worker placement and resource management game where players compete to build the best Indian palaces" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:24.243" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:24.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31653" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:51:01.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;War of the Ring&lt;/em&gt; is a military strategy game involving the free peoples of Middle Earth banding together their armies to fight Sauron and his forces. The first edition was released in 2004 by Fantasy Flight Games. The second edition was released in 2011 by Ares Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9609/war-ring-first-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek (first edition)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/115746/war-ring-second-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek (second edition)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:15.930" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:15.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31654" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-01T22:51:01.907" Score="0" Body="A military strategy game involving the free peoples of Middle Earth banding together their armies to fight Sauron and his forces." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T01:09:18.650" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T01:09:18.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31656" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-02T04:36:30.177" Score="-1" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I was to cast two &quot;take control of a creature until end of turn&quot; spells, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAct%20of%20Treason%5d&quot;&gt;Act of Treason&lt;/a&gt;, twice on the same creature in the same turn, do I keep it ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17666" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-02T09:27:37.777" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T09:27:37.777" Title="Do multiple take control effects let me keep a card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31657" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31656" CreationDate="2016-07-02T08:16:37.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will keep the creature until the end of the turn (more precisely, the Cleanup Step). If you cast two separate Acts on the same creature in the same turn, they both have the same duration—&quot;until end of turn&quot;—so both will expire at the same time. They don't add together to let you keep the creature longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T08:16:37.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31659" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31660" CreationDate="2016-07-02T13:58:17.967" Score="3" ViewCount="221" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules in our Power Grid edition (USA/Germany, purchased 2016) state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Of course, the areas chosen must be adjacent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are setups with a string of territories where each territory touches only 1 or 2 other territories legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it's legal, is it desirable for creating a fun/interesting game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T15:38:48.830" Title="Adjacent Territories during setup: What is considered adjacent?" Tags="|power-grid|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31659" CreationDate="2016-07-02T15:29:07.217" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A string is allowed&lt;/strong&gt; - just make sure there's a way to get from any chosen territory to any other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd say that a less interconnected map introduces an extra challenge - it makes city choice more important since it's easier to get boxed in. Since this can be frustrating, I'd recommend a more interconnected map for new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T15:29:07.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31661" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31659" CreationDate="2016-07-02T15:38:48.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although not clearly defined in the rules, adjacent areas are areas that &lt;strong&gt;have direct connections between them&lt;/strong&gt;, i.e., it is possible to get from one area to another without having to cross through a third one. &lt;em&gt;Example:&lt;/em&gt; yellow and red USA areas are adjacent, as there are the St. Louis - Kansas City/Memphis connections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Practical rule: in the base game at least (USA/Germany) adjacent areas are areas that &lt;strong&gt;share common borders&lt;/strong&gt;. All such areas also have a direct connection between them, rendering them adjacent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could naturally create some chocking points, if the chosen areas have a weird shape. For instance, on the German map, you could choose the cyan, yellow and purple regions, creating a choke point between yellow and cyan, as Hannover-Erfurt will be the only connection. This is still a legal configuration.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whether such configurations are fun or not, is a matter of personal taste. I do find them fun, as it can create intense biddings in the first round of the game for turn order, in order to build on this choke point and cut others off. But, if a player goes and builds around this choke point, then other players could build just above and below him, cutting him off, so it's a risk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10362" LastActivityDate="2016-07-02T15:38:48.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31662" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31674" CreationDate="2016-07-02T17:31:29.890" Score="-1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there is a keyword that basically means 'if the creature has a power of at least X'. A friend told me there might be, but I couldn't find it. I wouldn't be surprised if I missed it, so I'd like to know if anyone here has heard of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17670" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T14:24:34.030" Title="Magic The Gathering: keyword for power at least X" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31663" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-03T08:46:16.243" Score="1" ViewCount="97" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am thinking to use games for my development of thinking on a particular concept/problem. I hope to use it to know on how games provide ways of thinking on other problems. I am also thinking on making these games naked, by knowing the general structure of all these games. If on how these games came to dawn or if a origin story of the first games are given, it will be helpful.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If any related book, article, passage, quote or even abstract game is suggested, it will be of greatest help. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But was there any theme or rationale behind early games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17618" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:59:12.180" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T18:59:12.180" Title="What led to the creation of games in antiquity?" Tags="|history|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-07-04T18:32:21.130" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31667" CreationDate="2016-07-03T13:48:40.340" Score="5" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNarset%20Transcendent%5d&quot;&gt;Narset Transcendent&lt;/a&gt; can give any sorcery or instant &lt;em&gt;rebound&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSeasons%20Past%5d&quot;&gt;Seasons Past&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;put on bottom of owners library&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I &lt;em&gt;rebound&lt;/em&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Seasons Past&lt;/strong&gt; and then cast it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2016-07-03T14:59:41.593" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T15:10:00.940" Title="If I rebound Seasons Past what happens?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31665" CreationDate="2016-07-03T15:10:00.940" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you give Seasons Past rebound it will still be placed on the bottom of your library. It will not be exiled and thus can not be cast during your next upkeep. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule for rebound says (emphasis mine): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.87a Rebound appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents a static ability that functions while the spell is on the stack and may create a delayed triggered ability. “Rebound” means “If this spell was cast from your hand, &lt;strong&gt;instead of putting it into your graveyard as it resolves&lt;/strong&gt;, exile it and, at the beginning of your next upkeep, you may cast this card from exile without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Instead of&quot; creates replacement effect that exiles the card in place of it going to the graveyard. Since Seasons Past is never put into the graveyard that event won't be replaced. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2016-07-03T15:10:00.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31670" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31671" CreationDate="2016-07-04T01:57:33.373" Score="3" ViewCount="231" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing a game of &lt;em&gt;7 Wonders&lt;/em&gt; with the following expansions: Cities, Leaders, Great Projects (comes as part of the Babel expansion).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of a particular round, we ran in to a conflict in regards to how to resolve effects that occur simultaneously.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;One player had played a card that forced each player to discard a certain amount of gold (I believe it was related to the number of military victory tokens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The other player built a stage of his wonder (Halicarnassus B) which allowed him to build a building out of the discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The building he chose was of the type required by the Great Project. He just needed to pay additional gold to get a participation token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The conflict was that if he resolved the other players effect first, he wouldn't be able to participate in the great project. If he resolved his effect first, he would just need to take debt tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I went through the rules and couldn't find anything obvious stating how to resolve these kinds of conflicts. Does anyone know how this situation should be handled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T12:00:15.243" Title="Timing conflict with debt card effect" Tags="|7-wonders|7-wonders-cities|7-wonders-babel|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31671" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31670" CreationDate="2016-07-04T09:50:01.517" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From the Cities rule book (4):&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Important: monetary losses are always resolved at the end of a turn, after players have played their cards, possibly having paid for trade and/or obtained money...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player is able to participate in the project, but he/she would have to take debt afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for whether that player &lt;em&gt;has&lt;/em&gt; to participate in Great Project if he/she was going to, I haven't found ruling on it. Player consensus is this being optional and that player may make decision on it after they discovered debt threat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="7874" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T20:03:20.310" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T20:03:20.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31673" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-04T12:59:50.773" Score="6" ViewCount="2998" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm totally new to Warhammer and to assembling my own miniatures. I'm preparing a team of tau fire warriors and I am confused with the enhancements and how to prepare the miniatures to reflect them in 'what you see is what you get' games. The codex says that the Shas'ui of the team can take a markerlight and that the team can take EMP grenades. How do I know which of the dozens of optional pieces in my box corresponds to these? Moreover, my kit comes with two options for the tactical support turret (smart missile system and missile pod) but I'm also having trouble identifying the pieces for these. I have one piece with three missiles and another with six, but no idea of which is which.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a guide, with pictures, if possible, linking each piece to what they are supposed to represent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:03:45.240" Title="How to identify miniature parts that correspond to in-game enhancements?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|miniatures|tau|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31674" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31662" CreationDate="2016-07-04T14:24:34.030" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no such keyword ability, and no other word used in that specific context. Whenever a card has an effect that depends on the power of the creature, it's usually phrased as an English sentence, i.e. &quot;Creatures with power less than Aura Gnarlid's power can't block it.&quot; on &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=271147&quot;&gt;Aura Gnarlid&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to link to something that doesn't exist, but neither the list of &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Game%20Rules#3181&quot;&gt;Keyword Actions&lt;/a&gt; nor &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Game%20Rules#3182&quot;&gt;Keyword Abilities&lt;/a&gt; in the Comprehensive Rules mentions anything of the sort.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T14:24:34.030" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31675" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31663" CreationDate="2016-07-04T18:26:52.663" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most of these games (running, jumping, chariot racing, fencing, javelin throwing etc.) were based on skills useful in war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, many considered these games a &quot;civilized&quot; form of war that allowed for the release of hostilities, without having the real thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T18:26:52.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31676" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31677" CreationDate="2016-07-04T21:10:53.933" Score="8" ViewCount="7965" Body="&lt;p&gt;So i was playing Betrayal at house on the hill, and there's several tiles that say: &quot;If you end your turn on this tile gain X stat.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I couldn't find any rule preventing the players from just standing on that tile and ending their turn as soon as their turn begins. Is this a legal move?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a game where we were 4 people playing and 3 of them were just standing in the gymnasium while i was walking around finding items and such. Then i ended up being the traitor and i got madman, so my character an all my items was lost. While all of the others had max Knowledge, Speed and almost max Sanity to fight me with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this legal moves? I tried reading through the Rule book but couldn't find a rule that was against this. And it's no fun being the only one exploring the house.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17683" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T08:01:23.227" Title="&quot;If you end your turn on this tile gain X stat.&quot; Power farming?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31677" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31676" CreationDate="2016-07-04T21:28:29.203" Score="20" Body="&lt;p&gt;The FAQ/Errata, found &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2015/downloads/ah/FAQ_BHotH_102605-2.pdf&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, clarifies that these rooms can each only be used once per player per game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Chapel, Gymnasium, Larder, Library -- Can you stay in one of these rooms turn after turn to increase an attribute?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;No. Each character can receive the benefit from each room just once per game (one boost for each trait for each player, if all four rooms are in play). Most players find this easy to remember, but if someone gets argumentative, keep a simple, written record.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-07-04T21:28:29.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31678" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-05T02:38:21.977" Score="6" ViewCount="194" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing game in 4 hearts and get four.  The opponents revoke on the 12th trick. If they had not revoked they would of taken us down one trick.&#xA;Do we get our four hearts? &#xA;I know a revoke does not get a penalty with the last two tricks of a hand being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17687" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-13T01:50:15.090" LastActivityDate="2019-04-13T01:50:15.090" Title="Acol Bridge card game" Tags="|bridge|scoring|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31678" CreationDate="2016-07-05T07:40:38.490" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the ACBL Rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Law 62.D is first applied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On the 12th trick, a revoke, even if established, must be corrected if discovered before all four hands have been returned to the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Switzerland we have the same ruling for a trick 12 Revoke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the revoke will be fully corrected without penalty and the hand is one down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2691" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T07:40:38.490" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31676" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:01:23.227" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As someone said, that is forbidden. You can only increase your stats once, and I'm fairly sure that in more recent prints of the game (I bought my copy in May this year), the actual tiles say &quot;once per game&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17690" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T08:01:23.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31684" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:24:55.987" Score="2" ViewCount="1011" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the actions one can take is to make noise. This adds one noise token to one's current location. In addition, as far as I understand the rules, each character makes a noise automatically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that making a noise is only useful in a very narrow set of circumstances: zombies have no line of sight, there is no big group of characters, and no other noise around (breaking doors, some spells, etc...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I missed something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T08:55:21.963" Title="Unlcear about noise making as a useful tactical move" Tags="|zombicide|zombicide-black-plague|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31682" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:26:42.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zombicide Black Plague is a collaborative game in which players take the role of a survivor – each with unique abilities – and harness both their skills and the power of teamwork against the hordes of unthinking undead! Zombies are predictable, stupid but deadly, controlled by simple rules and a deck of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game is set in a fantasy setting instead of the modern day Zombicide.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T14:46:13.273" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T14:46:13.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31683" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:26:42.980" Score="0" Body="Zombicide Black Plague is the fantasy setting of Zombicide." OwnerUserId="5318" LastEditorUserId="5318" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T14:46:16.883" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T14:46:16.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31681" CreationDate="2016-07-05T08:39:38.260" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are the cases where I've used the noise making tactic:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To avoid splitting&lt;/strong&gt;. If a group of zombies has 2 equally noisy target zones to move to, and you want to avoid adding extra zombies due to splitting (i.e. an odd number of zombies in the starting zone), then making noise clarifies the target zone&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As a lure&lt;/strong&gt;. For example, luring zombies onto a dragon fire trap, luring a group of zombies away from a necromancer who is about to escape, luring a group of zombies into a room to trap them using the lock it down skill etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To use towers more effectively&lt;/strong&gt;. Towers (in the Wulfsberg expansion), allow for archers and spell casters to have more safe shots at zombies. It may be useful to lure zombies towards the tower (to get more shots) or away from the tower (to allow a survivor to escape the tower)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;To allow a survivor to escape&lt;/strong&gt;. Particularly useful when a survivor is in a dead end, or you want zombies to head towards survivors with armour/ironclad skills/regenerate etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorDisplayName="user10232" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T08:55:21.963" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T08:55:21.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31685" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31692" CreationDate="2016-07-05T09:03:45.360" Score="4" ViewCount="962" Body="&lt;p&gt;While studying Scrabble word lists through Zyzzyva, I came across the term playability order. I understand the term probability order, which lists the most probable tile combinations on a rack of 7 tiles. However, I was unable to understand what criteria orders the words based on playability order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first three words in the playability order for 3 letter words are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;QIN&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  QAT&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  QIS  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which according to me is quite absurd to be most playable, as one is more likely to draw two &lt;code&gt;E&lt;/code&gt;'s (out of 12) and one &lt;code&gt;R&lt;/code&gt; (out of 6) to play &lt;code&gt;ERE&lt;/code&gt; or &lt;code&gt;REE&lt;/code&gt;, rather than drawing the only &lt;code&gt;Q&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone explain to me in simple words the meaning of playability order of words in Scrabble?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17691" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T09:08:51.820" Title="What does playability of a Scrabble word mean?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31689" CreationDate="2016-07-05T12:10:39.437" Score="3" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;spoons&lt;/a&gt; (aka &quot;pig&quot; or &quot;tongue&quot;), you can simply not look at your cards, passing them on directly, so as to be ready to pick up a spoon at any moment (fixated on the spoons, with your hand hovering near a spoon). Is this &quot;cheap&quot; or &quot;cheating&quot; in any way, or just sometimes a good strategy? My sister says it's bad sportsmanship, but I insist it's just part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edits:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I accept that keeping your hand near the spoons will incite violence, so let's assume I don't do that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only employ this strategy when it makes sense (when I'm unlikely to make a match of 4, and I'm furthest from the dealer)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It does not make sense for everyone to play this strategy, since the more people employ the strategy, the less benefit they get (it becomes a better strategy to try to make a match, since matching is more likely). I feel this adds an interesting element of game theory; you have to anticipate what strategy others are using, and do the opposite.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17459" LastEditorUserId="17459" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T14:07:11.763" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T14:07:11.763" Title="Spoons: is passing your cards w/o looking cheating?" Tags="|house-rules|cheating|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31579" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:29:15.627" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It could be Pictionary. Although this does have a board, maybe you have a different version. But in pictionary, you do have 2 different coloured cards and you have to draw what card comes up. The &quot;unit&quot; that you are talking about might be an electronic version of Pictionary where the &quot;unit&quot; gives out a random card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T13:29:15.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31688" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31686" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:42:54.990" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is not cheating and is allowed, but its not a very fun way to play for others when it is the only strategy only used. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your intentions are to not be disliked and you want to invited to continue playing, maybe you should diversify your strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3128" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T13:42:54.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31686" CreationDate="2016-07-05T13:44:58.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Given that this is a highly variable kitchen table game, most of the answers you'll get here are opinions. That said, I think that keeping your hand hovering next to the spoons is practically cheating, at the very least, it's a pretty cheap way to play. Not looking at your cards is fine, but everyone should have their hands in front of them unless they're actually grabbing a spoon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While what you're doing may be within the rules in some circles, it may detract from the game. Imagine a game where everyone played with your strategy!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T13:44:58.410" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31694" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:28:51.540" Score="2" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have been trying to figure out which are the points costs for the several enhancements to tau units, but there is not a single comprehensive list for that. Sometimes model stats sheets have 'may take a markerlight and target lock (15pts),' while some other sheets just say 'may take two items from the support systems list' without specifying any cost. Does it means that I get those items for free (included in the unit price)? Another confusing case is that of Crisis Battle Suits: they 'may take take up to three items from the ranged weapons and/or support systems lists.' For some units different ranged weapons cost different amounts of points, so it sounds strange that crisis suits have access to all of them at the same (zero) cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apparently the older codex had a table on page 95 with all the costs, but I only have access to the 2015 edition and such table is gone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I correct in assuming that such enhancements cost points when a cost is mentioned but are otherwise free? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T21:09:35.540" Title="How to determine points costs of Tau unit enhancements?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31685" CreationDate="2016-07-05T14:54:58.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Playability&quot; refers to how often these words crop up in real games. Someone will have made a database of all the words played across a large number of &quot;high-standard&quot; games (e.g. club level and above) and ranked how often certain words crop up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;QIN ranks highly because it is a very common way of getting rid of a Q (since there are relatively few Q words to choose from). In addition, it can be formed by hooking -N onto QI, which itself is a very commonly played word. Thus QIN can be considered a useful word to know.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your example, it might be quite common to have the &lt;em&gt;option&lt;/em&gt; of playing ERE, but in most situations that won't score you many points, and there will be better combinations present on your rack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that &quot;playability&quot; is a slightly more subjective concept than &quot;probability&quot;. The latter can be calculated precisely, whereas playability will depend on the set of games chosen to average across, and ultimately the decisions of the players taking part in those games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T14:54:58.663" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31692" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31685" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:25:23.307" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Playability&quot; refers to the expected benefit from playing the word. That is, the actual benefit times the expected chances of getting to make the play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q is a very high-valued letter, so any word made with a Q will give you a large benefit. QIN, QIS, and QAT, also have pretty good chances of being played, because you can tack on the Q to common words such as in, is, and at, or tack on Q and N or T around a vowel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A word with two E's actually has a decidedly better chance of being played, but the value of the two Es is much less than that of one Q. It is this factor that makes the &quot;Q&quot; combinations more playable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T15:25:23.307" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31615" CreationDate="2016-07-05T15:42:30.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on this thread on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1594356/are-actions-stated-rumour-and-gossip-simultaneous&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; this card is resolved simultaneoously. I'd say you can resolve it in turn order if you want to, just set aside newly drawn cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="16237" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T20:16:25.153" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T20:16:25.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31694" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31690" CreationDate="2016-07-05T16:37:29.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There still is a table for the Ranged Weapons and Support Systems on Page 74 of the 2015 edition of the book. The did clean up the locations of special rules/equipment in newer editions, but if you're used to the older editions this can be hard to find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally Ranged weapons are 14 points and other support systems range from 5-25 points each. One nice thing about weapons all having the same points is you cna swap crisis suit builds very easily. None are free unless the rules explicitly state so, for exmaple: &quot;X comes equipped with with a Burst-Cannon which you may upgrade to a Smart-Linked Missile system for 25 points&quot; or something similar.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2016-07-05T20:31:47.773" LastActivityDate="2016-07-05T20:31:47.773" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31697" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31768" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:05:00.943" Score="3" ViewCount="738" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each round, during the Timed Phase, UFOs can wind up overflying various continental landmasses.  Each UFO that is not shot down by the intrepid forces directed by the Commander raises the terror level.  Do these UFOs then get removed, or do they persist (potentially raising the terror level again) into future turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:25:54.613" Title="Do the UFOs over the continents get removed when they raise the terror level?" Tags="|xcom|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-07-06T13:52:49.650" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recommend you check out the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancedtautactica.com/viewforum.php?f=21&quot;&gt;Modelling Section&lt;/a&gt; of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.advancedtautactica.com/&quot;&gt;Advanced Tau Tactica&lt;/a&gt; forums. This will probably be more helpful for their great magnetization guides, but there are a TON of other guides linked there... if you stick with Tau it will be an invaluable resource.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you can find a copy of some of the older codexs they often have better pictures of what counts as what, but to some extent, even in a WYSIWYG tournament no one is going to check whether or not your squad has Grenades (or give you a hard time for not buying grenades even though they're modeled with them).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T13:52:49.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31697" CreationDate="2016-07-06T15:28:47.947" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They persist into future turns and can raise the terror level again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In terms of strategy, one of the key cards is the one that lets you use satellites to pull UFOs into orbit.  It is far more efficient to pull most of the UFOs into orbit, and fight them with a bunch of satellites, rather than trying to spread interceptors out over all the continents.  Not only can a few satellites handle a large number of UFOs, but if they are lost, you only lose them for one turn and then automatically get them back.  You shouldn't have UFOs piling up over the continents until you're getting ready to do the final mission.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T15:28:47.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31701" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-07-06T17:50:46.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe I know a game that matches your query. One Night Ultimate Werwolf has possibility of such scenario in one particular case when Tanner character is used in the game. An excerpt from the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;GAME END&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After just one night and one day...&#xA;  The village team wins:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ol&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If at least one Werewolf dies. Even if one&#xA;  or more players who are not Werewolves die&#xA;  in addition to a Werewolf dying, everyone&#xA;  on the village team wins.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;If no one is a Werewolf and no one dies.&#xA;  It is possible for no one to be a Werewolf if&#xA;  all Werewolf cards are in the center.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The werewolf team only wins if at least one player is a Werewolf and no Werewolves are killed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you are playing with the Tanner, there are special rules regarding who wins; see the Tanner’s&#xA;  role description for details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TANNER&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Tanner hates his job so much&#xA;  that he wants to die. The Tanner&#xA;  only wins if he dies. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Tanner&#xA;  dies and no Werewolves die, the&#xA;  Werewolves do not win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Tanner dies and a Werewolf also dies,&#xA;  the village team wins too. The Tanner is considered a member of the village (but is not on their&#xA;  team), so if the Tanner dies when all werewolves&#xA;  are in the center, the village team loses. The Tanner is not on the werewolf or the villager team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if Tanner dies and no Werewolf is killed, Tanner wins, Villagers lose and Werewolfs neither win nor lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T17:50:46.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31383" CreationDate="2016-07-06T18:29:46.333" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is another possible option. Instead of handling each player a card with single target you can give them ordered lists of targets, than deduce specific targets once all lists are revealed. Sounds confusing? Let's look at example!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose it is a 4 player game with players Alice, Bob, Charlie and Doris (A,B,C and D for short). We create 4 lists with targets in order: #1[A,B,C,D]; #2[B,D,A,C]; #3[C,A,D,B]; #4[D,C,B,A] and give them to players randomly. Let's say we have a situation when Charlie has list #1, Alice got #2, Bob has #3 and Doris #4. Then at some point of game all lists are revealed. We'll look at this as a table:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Player   Charlie  Alice   Bob    Doris&#xA;List     #1       #2      #3     #4&#xA;Case1    A        B       C      D -X&#xA;Case2    B        D       A      C -V&#xA;Case3    C        A       D      B&#xA;Case4    D        C       B      A&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now we check cases one by one. Case 1 is invalid, since Doris has to target herself. Fall through to case 2... Bingo! Everyone has a valid target!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But what if Bob and Alice happen to swap lists and now it looks like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Player   Charlie  BoB     Alice  Doris&#xA;List     #1       #2      #3     #4&#xA;Case1    A        B       C      D -X&#xA;Case2    B        D       A -X   C&#xA;Case3    C -X     A       D      B&#xA;Case4    D        C       B      A -V&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First case is still no go, second one now is invalidated, we would then check case 3.. Also invalid because of Charlie suicidal tendencies, so we are left with case 4, which works fine in this case.&#xA;You got the idea. If you arrange lists correctly, there will always be an option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why one might prefere this convoluted system over something like in Floyd Navarro's answer? Well, this one doesn't necessary result in cyclical hunting when A hunts B hunts C hunts D hunts A, etc. It leaves possibility for A vs C and B vs D duels, if that's something you want.&#xA;Obviously, this has also it's flaws. This one is more convoluted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't want to reveal targets, there are workarounds on that too (though a bit more convoluted).&#xA;Basically, you don't need to reveal lists, only make sure current case is valid. This can be done with help of secret voting sistem a-la Resistance.&#xA;With N players you have N possible cases. Give each player one &quot;NO&quot; card, since there are only 1 invalid case for each player in their list - selftarget. Then give N-2 &quot;YES&quot; cards (There are N-1 possible voting rounds total, because in worst scenario last case will be selected automatically, and one &quot;NO&quot; card is already given to each player), and players vote for each case. If case not valid for a player, that player selects &quot;NO&quot; card, otherwise it is &quot;YES&quot;. Then cards are shuffled and revealed one by one. If all cards are &quot;YES&quot; - the case is valid. If there are at least one &quot;NO&quot; card, the case is invalid and players vote for next case. Note: you shouldn't reval all votes at once because of possible all &quot;NO&quot; scenario, which allows to easily deduce all player's targets. All you need to know is that case passes or not, no more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, now I'm interested myself, are there any games which feature similar system?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="16237" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T20:52:13.253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T20:52:13.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4511" CreationDate="2016-07-06T20:37:05.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tam, I'm way late to the party but in case someone else finds this by Googling an answer for a similar (or in my case pretty different =P) question, I'll answer it anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know how long you studied the Pokémon TCG before you made your statement about older cards being weaker.  Even taking into account that I am making this comment in 2016 while the question was asked back in 2011, what I am saying was true back then.  For the record, I began playing the Pokémon TCG in 2011, with its North American release, give or take a break when school or work got to be too much.  Even then I would research what I missed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I'm telling you some of the most &lt;strong&gt;powerful&lt;/strong&gt; cards in the Pokémon TCG are from the original &quot;Base Set&quot;.  The catch is that they aren't Pokémon, but Trainer cards!  There are some Pokémon and Energy cards that would cause problems as well because their effects (not their HP or attack damage) is so powerful, though at the time the game split between Unlimited (all sets allowed) and Modified (the latest sets allowed, rotating older ones out once per year), the older Pokémon were &lt;strong&gt;also&lt;/strong&gt; stronger than most of what was being printed.  For the record, Modified is now referred to as &quot;Standard&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional reasons, besides a company needing to sell new cards to make a profit and stay in business, are core rules being revised and altering how good older effects are and the complexity of an ever growing card pool.  Do you know how many total Pokémon cards have been released in English?  I believe with the most recent set it is really is &quot;...over 9000!&quot;.  A lot lower when we ignore reprints, but even just looking at unique cards it is probably at least a few thousand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A few thousand cards is a lot for a new player to learn, to sort out the best version of a particular Pokémon that may have released 10 years ago but is no longer available.  It is also a lot for a designer to check his latest creation against to make sure it isn't too powerful via combo.  Almost no one plays competitive Unlimited anymore and around the time you asked your question, it was still true.  Decks in Unlimited where either First Turn Win or First Turn Lock; you could actually lose or effectively lose before you got to take a single turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And all this is just the general; this would be much longer if I were to give specific examples, though if they are needed I can. ^_^&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17714" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T20:37:05.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31704" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25669" CreationDate="2016-07-06T22:02:11.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hoyle says &quot;the cards read themselves&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17715" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:02:11.313" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31705" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31706" CreationDate="2016-07-06T22:06:15.257" Score="1" ViewCount="19641" Body="&lt;p&gt;In war, if two people play the same card they go to war and have to stake multiple cards on the next play. If another person and I go to war, but the opponent only has one card left (can't stake enough cards) then how is the game supposed to proceed? Should the opponent place down their last card? And should I still put down three cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17716" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-06T22:13:43.247" LastActivityDate="2022-07-06T02:01:41.717" Title="In War, what if one player runs out of cards mid-war?" Tags="|war-card-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31706" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31705" CreationDate="2016-07-06T22:12:17.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Answers vary. From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/war/war.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;pagat.com&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most descriptions of War are not clear about what happens if a player runs out of cards during a war. There are at least two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you don't have enough cards to complete the war, you lose. If neither player has enough cards, the one who runs out first loses. If both run out simultaneously, it's a draw. Example: Players A and B both play sevens, so there is a war. Each player plays a card face down, but this is player B's last card. Player A wins, since player B does not have enough cards to fight the war.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you run out of cards during a war, your last card is turned face up and is used for all battles in that war. If this happens to both players in a war and their last cards are equal, the game is a draw. Example: Players A and B both play sevens, so there is a war. Player A plays a card face down, but player B has only one card, so it must be played face up. It is a queen. Player A plays a card face up and it is also a queen, so the war must continue. Player B's queen stays (B's last card) while player A plays a card face down and one face up, which is a nine. Player B wins the war and takes all these seven cards (the five cards that A played and the two cards that B played) and the game continues normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-06T22:12:17.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31707" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31708" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:17:38.387" Score="2" ViewCount="465" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMoonlight%20Hunt%5d&quot;&gt;Moonlight Hunt&lt;/a&gt;, and my Werewolves have trample, does the excess damage from my creatures get applied to the player? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user17548" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T02:32:06.157" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T02:34:26.917" Title="Moonlight hunt with trample" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31707" CreationDate="2016-07-07T02:34:26.917" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, trample only works when dealing combat damage. The damage dealt by creatures because of Moonlight Hunt is non-combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.19a&lt;/strong&gt; Trample is a static ability that modifies the rules for assigning an attacking creature’s combat damage. The ability has no effect when a creature with trample is blocking or is dealing noncombat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T02:34:26.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-07-07T05:35:52.863" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Aslum answer is good. ATT can be a bit pretentious at times, but there's some good stuff on there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for your Missile Pods vs Smart Missile System - the missile pod is the one with three (it's the same as on the Crisis suits) while the SMS has the six (just like the Broadsides). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as WYSISWG - most people are fine with every last bit of wargear not being shown correctly (I.e. how are you meant to show an engram chip? or Digital Weapons?) - and this used to be in the rules itself (not sure if it still is). It's more to do with units and weapons being &lt;a href=&quot;http://tsoalr.com/?p=19&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;easily identifiable&lt;/a&gt; and not likely to &lt;a href=&quot;http://tsoalr.com/?p=18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cause confusion&lt;/a&gt; for your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T05:35:52.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31710" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31711" CreationDate="2016-07-07T07:12:25.323" Score="3" ViewCount="1344" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought Zombicide: Black Plague and we played the three first quests (0, 1 and 2). None of us played the other versions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what surprises me. The quests 1 and 2 have an estimated time of 60 minutes. Is it actually possible to complete these that fast ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For both, we needed more than 2 hours..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Note:&lt;/strong&gt; having no zombicide experience at all doesn't help, for sure, but the difference for these supposed &lt;em&gt;easy&lt;/em&gt; quests is pretty huge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17718" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T07:49:16.037" Title="Do Zombicide: Black Plague quests last a lot longer than suggested?" Tags="|zombicide|zombicide-black-plague|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31710" CreationDate="2016-07-07T07:49:16.037" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We too played the first couple of quests in Zombicide: Black Plague and it took us about 2 hours for quests 2 and 3 and we have played previous Zombicide games.&#xA;The first quest we played with 2 people (each controlling 2 survivors) and it took us about an hour and a half, but that included a lot of rules checking (there are huge differences in the rules between earlier Zombicide games and Zombicide: Black Plague).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Game designers give these estimates based on play tester feedback. Play testers may have played through a number of different versions of the same map, be more focussed on continuous gameplay than a group of players and have more experience with the rules and various skills. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would treat the given times as &quot;minimum&quot; and probably add an hour to an hour and a half to these estimates.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The upside to these estimates is that if you want to convince your friends to play one more game before they have to go, you tell them &quot;it'll only take an hour, see here it says so in the quest description.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T07:49:16.037" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31712" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-07T09:11:37.633" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is 1882, and the Old Ones are already here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They arrived seven hundred years ago and have been ruling the planet ever since. The majority of people just get on with their lives, accepting their monstrous rulers. However, a growing band of revolutionaries wish to free mankind from their slavery. These freedom fighters call themselves the Restorationists. A secret war has already broken out between the Restorationists and the forces loyal to the Old Ones. The invention of dynamite has changed the balance of power, and a lone assassin now has the capacity to destroy an Old One. In this shadow world of assassins, informers, police agents and anarchists, nobody is quite sure who is who and which side they fight for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game A Study in Emerald draws its central plot from the award-winning short story penned by Neil Gaiman, in which the worlds of Sherlock Holmes and H.P. Lovecraft are combined to telling effect. However, to create a world detailed enough for players, much has been added from real history. The nineteenth century was a time of unrest, with many colorful characters fighting both for and against the authorities. A Study in Emerald is the outcome of the merging of these three worlds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This second edition of A Study in Emerald sports new artwork by Ian O'Toole and Tatiana Kuzilova along with a streamlined set of rules that will hopefully help those folks who found the first version a tad complicated. Inconsistencies have been removed and the number of available actions has been reduced to the minimum, whilst still retaining the mood of paranoia from the first edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T11:17:01.517" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:17:01.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31713" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-07T09:11:37.633" Score="0" Body="It is 1882, and the Old Ones arrived seven hundred years ago. The majority of people accept their monstrous rulers. However, the invention of dynamite has changed the balance of power and a band of revolutionaries wish to free mankind from their slavery. A secret war has already broken out between these Restorationists and the forces loyal to the Old Ones. In this shadow world, nobody is quite sure who is who and which side they fight for.&#xD;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T11:16:58.813" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T11:16:58.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31644" CreationDate="2016-07-07T18:33:52.310" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capsa_(disambiguation)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cap Sa&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_two#Rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Big Two&lt;/a&gt; are the same game while &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daifug%C5%8D&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Daifugo&lt;/a&gt; has slightly different rules. I could scrutinize those pages and try to summarize the differences here, but I think there's no point: based on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_two#Variations&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this list&lt;/a&gt; and my experience, there are so many variations of these games that you will likely never find two people who play by the same rules anyway. So while it helps to have a general idea of how this class of &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Card_game#Shedding_games&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shedding&lt;/a&gt;&quot; games works, if you're playing with someone new you'll have to review all your rules or learn all theirs regardless of which game you are nominally playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-07T18:40:43.760" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T18:40:43.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31715" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-07T19:18:48.647" Score="16" ViewCount="2713" Body="&lt;p&gt;Because nobody knows the game-theoretical-optimal strategy in Hearts, I am looking for an approximation based on empirical data. For example, based on logs of games between expert players from an online server, or from records of championship events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm particularly curious about the J♦︎ variant, and the difference in the shoting the moon ratio w/o the J♦︎ variant.  In that variant, the J♦︎ is worth -10 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NOTE:  This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; a duplicate of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11336/what-are-the-chances-of-shooting-the-moon-in-hearts&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;.  That question doesn't qualify in what context the game is being played.  This question does, and as such, it will have an objective answer, but only if someone has access to a decent data set of games.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5732" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2019-10-16T13:36:43.533" LastActivityDate="2020-11-26T18:14:07.343" Title="In Hearts, played by experts, what is ratio of shooting the moon?" Tags="|statistics|hearts|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="14" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31716" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4897" CreationDate="2016-07-07T19:23:50.090" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The best training for playing chess is the game itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if you want to &quot;dumb down&quot; the game, then remove the two sets of knights. Those are the pieces with &quot;special&quot; moves that are relatively hard to understand. The other pieces all move on straight lines and/or diagonals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's really no need to play with simplified rules. There are only five different kinds of pieces that can move in unique ways (six counting pawns). And your son did want pieces that can move differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T04:39:54.020" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T04:39:54.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18041" CreationDate="2016-07-07T21:20:16.693" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Pokémon TCG handles several things different from the video games.  Simple answers to your questions would be quite misleading.  So first things first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Type:&lt;/strong&gt; The Pokémon TCG has fewer Types than the video games.  TCG Types often contain two or even three of the video game Types.  The TCG Psychic Type contains the video game Psychic, Ghost, and Poison Types.  Most cards also only have a single Type even if in the video games that Pokémon has two Types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Weakness/Resistance:&lt;/strong&gt; Besides the obvious like Resistance causing a flat -20 to attack damage, another major difference is that &lt;strong&gt;attacks have no Type in the TCG.&lt;/strong&gt;  So when you go to apply Weakness and/or Resistance, you look at the Pokémon's own Type, not what Energy when to pay for the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Poison does no damage:&lt;/strong&gt; Poison is a what is called a &quot;Special Condition&quot; in the TCG, along with Burn, Confusion, Paralysis, and Sleep.  There are other effects that attacks or Abilities can inflict on a Pokémon, but those five have special rules.  Poison in the TCG places a damage counter on the Poisoned Pokémon between turns.  Though doing damage involves placing damage counters at the end, an effect that places damage counters (like Poison) skips a lot of steps, one of those being the steps where Weakness and Resistance are applied.  &lt;strong&gt;So Resistance does nothing to Poison.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack or Replace:&lt;/strong&gt;  Some Special Conditions stack with each other, but any time you inflict a the same Special Condition on a Pokémon, like Poisoning something which has already been Poisoned, the newer of the two replaces the older.  So you cannot use Spit Poison multiple times to increase how many damage counters are placed on it from Poison between turns.  &lt;strong&gt;Some Pokémon place multiple counters with Poison!&lt;/strong&gt; So be careful not to replace a stronger Poison with a weaker one.  If the card doesn't specify, then it just places one damage counter from Poison between turns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17714" LastActivityDate="2016-07-07T21:20:16.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31718" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31736" CreationDate="2016-07-07T21:28:30.403" Score="5" ViewCount="3184" Body="&lt;p&gt;Occasionally I google around looking for the latest research into hearts AI, and I never find anything. As far as I can tell the best hearts AI out there is still far below the level of an expert human.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering if anybody knows of any recent papers or results. I'm particularly curious if a Monte Carlo Tree Search based approach combined with deep learning and reinforcement learning has been attempted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Please let me know if there is a more appropriate Stack Exchange community for this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5732" LastActivityDate="2018-04-03T04:40:08.107" Title="What is the current state of the art in hearts AI?" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31726" CreationDate="2016-07-08T04:30:18.127" Score="7" ViewCount="759" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that bridge champions can continue winning tournaments into their sixties, and even later in life. On the other hand, chess champions often seem to lose their crowns in their forties and fifties, and Go champions seem to make no further progress after their thirties. And of course, most sports champions are &quot;done&quot; by age 40, if not before.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do bridge masters in fact last longer at or near the top than those of other games? And even so, would it make sense to have top bridge partners of very different ages where the older one might have better bidding judgment, and the younger one, greater endurance for the cut-and-thrust of &quot;play?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source for Go: &quot;The 1971 Honinbo Tournament,&quot; by James Davies. Source for others: Various Wikipedia biographies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T07:49:13.443" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T07:21:27.530" Title="Do bridge champions retain their abilities to a later age than those of chess or go?" Tags="|bridge|go|chess|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31627" CreationDate="2016-07-08T14:44:34.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;These answers seem to me to conflate two slightly different goals because of English usage considerations.  Winner and &quot;Best player&quot; are not necessarily the same,  In my Puerto Rico circle there is one player who is decidedly the &quot;best&quot;, winning most of the time.  When he loses he doesn't lose the assessment of being the &quot;best&quot; (most skillful) player, even if he loses this one game. (Though we all cheerfully assure him he has lost the gloss of &quot;best&quot;.) So winning is a simple matter of scoring (as are 2nd, 3rd, etc.), and scoring one (or even several) game does not imply &quot;best&quot; player - especially given that most popular board games have some elements of randomness in order to keep them interesting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14029" LastActivityDate="2016-07-08T14:44:34.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31721" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31627" CreationDate="2016-07-08T16:14:32.997" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what the goal is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games like Scrabble or Yahtzee have scores on a fairly wide &quot;continuum.&quot; So in games like these, it may be valid to use scores to measure &quot;degrees of goodness.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games like Catan have scores on a narrower continuum (7 or 8, up to 10). Such games are more &quot;binary.&quot; You either achieve, or don't achieve the victory condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the game of &quot;Thrones,&quot; the basic victory condition is seven strongholds, but if no one achieves that, then smaller numbers are used to &quot;rank,&quot; and hence determine the winner. (But that is a second choice.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Catan, Thrones is a &quot;first past the post game&quot; (seven for Thrones, ten for Catan. In Scrabble or Yahtzee, there is no &quot;post,&quot; only relative scores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T08:34:11.857" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T08:34:11.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31723" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-08T17:03:37.747" Score="2" ViewCount="3245" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put 4 +1/+1 counters on a 1/1 creature, so now it is a 5/5. My opponent casts a spell that says to remove all +1/+1 counters from target creature. Is my creature now a 1/1? Or are all creatures 0/0 with +1 counters on them?  If they are 0/0s, then since all counters would be removed, is my card dead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related, can I use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSage%20of%20Hours%5d&quot;&gt;Sage of Hours&lt;/a&gt;, again and again, or would it be dead after the first time I use it due to removing all counters?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17726" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-07-08T19:41:55.057" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T03:27:37.053" Title="Are counters the same as a creature's power/toughness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31724" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31719" CreationDate="2016-07-08T17:05:23.020" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't know anything about Bridge, I played a bit Chess and am a regular Go player. That being said, I completely agree with &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31719/do-bridge-champions-retain-their-abilities-to-a-later-age-than-those-of-chess-or/31722#31722&quot;&gt;Arghya's answer&lt;/a&gt; and want to add some details from my perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that Go is evolving through time. As chess. These games have &lt;strong&gt;Complete Information&lt;/strong&gt; (see Wikipedia's article about &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Game_theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Game Theory&lt;/a&gt;) and still, they are so difficult to play that there is &lt;strong&gt;no Perfect Play&lt;/strong&gt; for us Humans. &lt;em&gt;(but there may exist eventually one)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Go, the opening theory is still a challenge and &lt;strong&gt;new players can learn from the best of their generation&lt;/strong&gt;. There are multiple player that are considered &lt;a href=&quot;http://learnbaduk.com/baduk-legends.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Go Saints&lt;/a&gt; because they discovered some new patterns and thus made the game deeper and more interesting. The arriving of computers that can challenge top pros probably will bring an evolution in the way the game itself is played by Humans&#xA;In Go, each player has a unique style and if you're considered the best a lot of rivals will learn from your games. They will play between them and eventually find a way to counter your style.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;It may not be a simple matter of age but a matter of time.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bridge is &lt;strong&gt;not a game with Complete Information&lt;/strong&gt; and I don't know if the strategies are evolving. Is there even a best strategy possible ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14864" LastEditDate="2022-03-23T07:21:27.530" LastActivityDate="2022-03-23T07:21:27.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31723" CreationDate="2016-07-08T17:19:17.620" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Counters are a specific object in the game, usually represented by a physical token (glass beads, tiny dice, pennies if you're desperate, &amp;amp;c.) so you can keep track of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+1/+1 counters are a specific kind of counter with a baked-in ability: modifying the power and toughness of a creature they are attached to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Only things specified as &quot;counters&quot; in the game rules or card text are counters.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these things are &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; counters and do not involve counters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your creature's base power and toughness, and effects that set them to specific values.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A creature's power and toughness that gets set by the card text while the value in the corner just says &quot;*/*.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A card that modifies a creature's power and toughness, such as &quot;target creature gets +3/+3 until end of turn&quot; or &quot;all white creatures get +1/+1.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only times you're likely to be interacting with counters in Magic without a card being super explicit are planeswalker loyalty and a handful of specialized set mechanics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infect and Wither turn damage into -1/-1 counters.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Suspend and cumulative upkeep both use counters to keep track of their &quot;ticks.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-09T03:27:37.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T03:27:37.053" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31719" CreationDate="2016-07-09T01:16:56.657" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not only do bridge players &lt;strong&gt;retain&lt;/strong&gt; their abilities to a later age than Chess and Go players, they don't even &lt;strong&gt;attain&lt;/strong&gt; their peak ability until an age, around forty or so, when they have decidedly passed their peak in Go and Chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bob_Hamman&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bob Hamman&lt;/a&gt;, born 1938, was ranked 7th in the world by the World Bridge Federation as of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WBF_Open_Ranking&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;October, 2012&lt;/a&gt;, at the age of 74. His Championship performances in the preceding 5 years were:&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Bermuda Bowl: Win 2009;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - United States Bridge Team Trial Championship: win 2008 &amp;amp; 2012;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Spingold North American Championship: win 2007;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Reisinger North American Championship: Win 2008;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Open Board-a-Match Teams North American Championship: win 2008;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; - Jacoby Open Swiss Teams North American Bridge Championship: win 2009;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A quick glance at Hamman's record suggests that this 5 year period may have been one of his most prolific, with seven significant wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lorenzo_Lauria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lorenzo Lauria&lt;/a&gt;, born July 7 1947, was ranked 5th in the world at that time at age 65.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Meckstroth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jeff Meckstroth&lt;/a&gt;, born May 1956, was ranked 6th in he world at that time at age 56.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Rodwell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Eric Rodwell&lt;/a&gt;, born May 1957, was ranked 8th in the world at that time at age 55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tor_Helness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tor Helness&lt;/a&gt;, born 1957 or 1958, was ranked 10th at that time at age 54 or 55.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The youngest player in the top 10 at that time was &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geir_Helgemo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geir Helgemo&lt;/a&gt;, born February 1970, at age 42.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is and has been consistent for the several decades that I have been playing the game - players very rarely crack top ten in the world until after 40, peak in their fifties and sixties, and often retain world championship caliber play (if not quite championship level play) into their seventies and eighties.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As posted on July 10, 2016, though apparently without adjustments for the cheating scandal of September 2015, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/rankingOpen.asp?offset=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;current WBF Top 10 Masterpoint&lt;/a&gt; holders with their ages are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=4493&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fulvio&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fulvio_Fantoni&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Fantoni&lt;/a&gt;: Age 52&lt;/s&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://neapolitanclub.altervista.org/eng/fantunes-figb-sentence-highlights.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(disgraced)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA; &lt;s&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=5170&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Claudio&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Claudio_Nunes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Nunes&lt;/a&gt;: Age 48&lt;/s&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://neapolitanclub.altervista.org/eng/fantunes-figb-sentence-highlights.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;(disgraced)&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=5473&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Geir&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geir_Helgemo&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helgemo&lt;/a&gt;: Age 46  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tor&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tor_Helness&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Helness&lt;/a&gt;: Age 59 or 58  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=1793&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Giorgio&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giorgio_Duboin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Duboin&lt;/a&gt;: Age 57  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=968&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zia&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zia_Mahmood&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Mahmood&lt;/a&gt;: Age 70  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=2253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frank&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://pl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franck_Multon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Multon&lt;/a&gt;: Age 52  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=4593&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Alfredo&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alfredo_Versace&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Versace&lt;/a&gt;: Age 47  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=7074&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pierre&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Zimmermann_(bridge)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Zimmermann&lt;/a&gt;: Age 61  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/playerdetail.asp?Code=596&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Jeff&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeff_Meckstroth&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Meckstroth&lt;/a&gt;: Age 60&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/rankingOpen.asp?offset=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lorenzo&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lorenzo_Lauria&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lauria&lt;/a&gt;: Age 69  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wbfmasterpoints.com/rankingOpen.asp?offset=0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Norberto&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norberto_Bocchi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bocchi&lt;/a&gt;: Age 55  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Top 10: Youngest: 46; Median: 53.5 (52&amp;amp;55); Oldest: 70&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Fantoni &amp;amp; Nunes, 1st and 2nd on both lists, are now disgraced; found guilty in April 2016 of cheating and banned for life as a pair, and individually for three years.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-07-11T22:57:46.313" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T22:57:46.313" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31728" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:11:40.660" Score="2" ViewCount="2249" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it allowed for you to not defend with any creatures at all when the opponent is attacking (even if you have untapped creatures) and take the damage yourself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I have a sliver deck and I want to build up on slivers to take down my opponent, but my opponent attacks me and the creature she uses is capable of taking out my sliver. Am I allowed to ignore that creature and not assign defenders to defend the damage and just take the damage myself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9901" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T18:19:49.687" Title="Are you allowed to not block and let the damage slip through?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31728" CreationDate="2016-07-09T18:19:49.687" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You are not forced to block attacking creatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are certain creature abilities that force you to block, but generally, you can leave attacking creatures unblocked, and they will deal their damage to you instead of your creatures. I suggest you read the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_MTGM11_Rulebook_LR_Web.pdf&quot;&gt;Basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your opponent chooses which of his or her creatures will&#xA;  block. Tapped creatures can’t be declared as blockers.&#xA;  For blocking, it doesn’t matter how long the creature has&#xA;  been on the battlefi eld. Each creature can block only one&#xA;  attacker, but multiple blockers can gang up on a single&#xA;  attacking creature. If that happens, the attacking player&#xA;  orders the blockers to show which is fi rst in line for&#xA;  damage, which is second, and so on. &lt;strong&gt;Creatures don’t have&#xA;  to block.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T18:19:49.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31730" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8515" CreationDate="2016-07-09T22:26:54.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to capture the land that the port is connected to, to do that, you would need to capture the sea area connected to the port with your ships and then capture the land by transporting land units over&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17733" LastActivityDate="2016-07-09T22:26:54.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31732" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33902" CreationDate="2016-07-10T04:58:56.137" Score="4" ViewCount="11606" Body="&lt;p&gt;I suck at Scattergories. I've played the game dozens of times, and as far as I can remember I have never gotten anything other than last place. Usually the gap between me and the next lowest score is large. I just finished a full 16-round game with a final score of 51. Only 24 words were crossed out due to others having them; 1 or 2 words tops were crossed out due to challenge. That's an average of just 4.7 words that I filled in per 12-word list. I believe that putting &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt; down for each line is the most important aspect of the game, so clearly I'm doing something wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are my strategies for filling up the slots on each list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think of any and all words starting with the letter and find a category that they might fit in, selecting the most obscure category to avoid overlapping with another player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think of any and all words associated with the category on the list, and see if any of them start with the letter. Usually this involves visualizing the category. For example, with “things in a junk drawer” I visualize my own junk drawer, name each item, and check the first letter for a match.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read the list, the instructions, and any text in the room for words that start with the letter. Any that do, find a category for them if possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sound out in my head the letter followed by a common next letter, waiting for my brain to fill in a word. For example, the letter is “S,” so in my head I say “sh...” and “se...” until words like “shout” and “seer” pop up. Then, find a category for that word.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Write the first letter to see if my brain will auto-complete a word simply by muscle memory.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be tempted to comment, “it's a party game, just have fun with it.” Since I'm not particularly competitive, that's basically what I have done in my dozens of attempts. However, at this point the pattern of suckage is hard to ignore, and I'm quite curious what key aspect of the game I must be missing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13253" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-03-19T07:01:54.987" LastActivityDate="2017-03-19T07:01:54.987" Title="Strategies for Scattergories" Tags="|party|scattergories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31733" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31735" CreationDate="2016-07-10T05:56:14.667" Score="2" ViewCount="678" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the name of this game in English.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a drinking game, in which the participants get together in a circle and, with a playing cards deck, draw cards and follow their drinking rules (according to each card value).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E.g.: I drew a Queen, so all the ladies that are playing must drink. My friend then draws a Two, so he chooses 2 people to drink. Etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks in advance! :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17736" LastEditorUserId="7874" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T18:15:08.380" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T18:15:08.380" Title="What is the name of this card game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31734" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31737" CreationDate="2016-07-10T07:53:53.583" Score="2" ViewCount="865" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the expansion pack &lt;strong&gt;Wild West Show&lt;/strong&gt;, for the game BANG!, there is a card called &quot;Lady Rose of Texas&quot;. It states that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During his turn, each player can swap places with the player on his right, who will skip his next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had a situation come up while I was the renegade, and the only other player left was the Sheriff. It was my turn when this card came up from the expansion pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it was my turn, and the card states that the person you switch with loses their turn, you could effectively put them into a neverending loop of skipped turns, and always have a new turn start over for you. Eventually, you would win the game because you would get the cards you needed over time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like an instant win card, which seems kind of lame and defeats how the game should be played. Am I understanding this card right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13632" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T15:06:19.583" Title="BANG! Can I use the &quot;Lady Rose of Texas&quot; card to lock out the other player when it is down to two players?" Tags="|expansions|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31733" CreationDate="2016-07-10T14:10:31.520" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://fundrinkinggames.net/kings-cup-rules/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's one variation&lt;/a&gt;, having a couple different names:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Kings Cup (AKA Ring Of Fire or Circle Of Death) Is a popular card drinking game. To play the game you should have a medium size group (at least 4 players). You start by placing a red cup in the middle of everyone and spread a deck of cards around it face down. You then go around in a circle taking turns drawing cards following the rules below.&#xA;  The Objective?: Draw all of the Kings&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing there are many variations of this game, going by many names.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13253" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T14:10:31.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31736" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31718" CreationDate="2016-07-10T14:35:59.757" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Update based on your comment: I gather that you are more interested in research than making a game. In that case I'll point you to a couple of papers that might be helpful. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aaai.org/Papers/IJCAI/2007/IJCAI07-170.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This paper&lt;/a&gt; talks about what makes Go a unique challenge, and the introduction has a quote (and some references) you might find useful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Minimax search variants are particu-&#xA;  larly effective in Chess, Checkers, Othello and Backgammon, whereas Monte-Carlo simulation has proven most successful in Scrabble and Hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding hearts, the reference is to &lt;a href=&quot;https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-3-540-75538-8_11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this paper&lt;/a&gt; which is unfortunately not free but maybe you have access through an employer or university.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope that helps. I still recommend the programmers.SE question I linked below; there's some good discussion there about Monte-Carlo methods as they relate to card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;State of the art? Maybe &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.deepmind.com/dqn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deep Mind&lt;/a&gt;. It's a general purpose AI that seems to excel at a great many games. Not sure if it's been applied to hearts, but I don't see why it couldn't be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Realistically? Maybe Monte Carlo. You can read some discussion of it here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://softwareengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/213870/best-techniques-for-an-ai-of-a-card-game&quot;&gt;https://softwareengineering.stackexchange.com/questions/213870/best-techniques-for-an-ai-of-a-card-game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to make a Hearts game, as opposed to an AI research topic, remember this: Games are supposed to be fun. An AI that could beat practically any human player wouldn't be fun for practically any human players. Fun AI is what Søren Johnson focused on for Civilization IV, and he has some good thoughts on it in &lt;a href=&quot;https://youtu.be/IJcuQQ1eWWI&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this video&lt;/a&gt;. Furthermore, it's usually easier to develop an AI that's kinda smart that one that's really really smart.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13253" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-12T07:32:04.593" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T05:25:43.093" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31734" CreationDate="2016-07-10T15:06:19.583" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is some clarification posted on this card over at &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/5569204#5569204&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt; where someone got answers from the publishers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the answers that where posted it looks like in your case the card was intended to be used only twice as at that point in the game it is only a two player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Lady Rose of Texas. Can a player use this ability just once per turn, or more often?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: Once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Lady Rose of Texas (and Dorothy Rage). Can this card be used at any point in the turn? For example, can Willy the Kid Bang! the player on his left, switch seats to the right, and then Bang! the player on his right?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: Yes, Lady Rose of Texas (and Dorothy Rage) can be used at any point in the turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Lady Rose of Texas. Is there a limit to the number of times this can be used in a row? For example, if the game is down to two players, one of them could keep swapping places and the other would never get a turn. Even with the Sheriff and 2 or 3 Outlaws, the Outlaws could keep swapping with the Sheriff and never let him get a turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: The card was intended to be played a maximum of N times where N is the number of players currently in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T15:06:19.583" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31738" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31743" CreationDate="2016-07-10T15:10:17.640" Score="5" ViewCount="5116" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have several Pokemon that have the ability to return them to your hand as part of an attack.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Phione: Auqa Boomerang - 20 damage - Return this Pokemon and all cards&#xA;  attached to it to your hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Shaymin EX - Sky Return - 30 damage - Return this Pokemon and all&#xA;  cards attached to it to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that this happens in conjunction with my attack.  My attack is my last move, therefore do I have no Pokemon in the active position for my opponent to attack?  Or do I need to move a Pokemon from the bench to the active position after my attack?  This just seems to be a conflict of the rules...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17739" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:53:50.113" Title="What to do when you &quot;return a Pokemon to your hand&quot;" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31740" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31742" CreationDate="2016-07-10T20:19:12.017" Score="1" ViewCount="475" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the click bait title, but I have a rules query about Evil Troy as a necromancer. His card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When killed, put him back in &lt;strong&gt;his&lt;/strong&gt; Spawn Zone and don't remove a Spawn Token, unless a Damage 3 (or more) Attack or Dragon Fire was used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rule book, when you kill a necromancer, you can:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Killing a Necromancer slows the invasion . If you manage to kill it, choose a Spawn Zone (including its own Necromancer Spawn Zone) and remove it from the board . If the Necromancer Spawn token is still on the board after this removal, replace it with a standard one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have killed a necromancer other than Evil Troy and I decide to remove Evil Troy's spawn zone. &lt;strong&gt;What happens if I kill Evil Troy after his spawn zone is removed? What happens if I used a weapon with a damage of less than 3?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T21:21:07.947" Title="Send Evil Troy back to the hell that he came from! Oh, wait it's gone already?" Tags="|zombicide-black-plague|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31742" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31740" CreationDate="2016-07-10T21:21:07.947" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;My interpretation of the rules is this:&#xA;When you select a Spawn Zone to remove you have 2 choices:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A regular Spawn Zone (not a Necromancer Spawn Zone) &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Necromancer Spawn Zone for the defeated Necromancer&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first case the Necromancer Spawn Zone for the defeated Necromancer becomes a regular Spawn Zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means you cannot choose the Necromancer Spawn Zone for any other Necromancer currently in play. Thus, when Evil Troy is killed, his Necromancer Spawn Zone should still be on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15441" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T21:21:07.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31743" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31738" CreationDate="2016-07-10T23:57:13.207" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The mechanics for this kind of attack on Pokemon Trading Card Game Online (PTCGO, Official Pokemon TCG) is that whenever a Pokemon uses a 'Return this Pokemon...' attack, the damage is inflicted to the defending Pokemon and then the attacking Pokemon (along with attached cards, this also means, if it's a Stage 2 Pokemon, also take the stage 1 and Basic Pokemon) goes back to the owner's hand. The owner must then choose a benched Pokemon to be their new active Pokemon. In the case that there is no benched Pokemon, you cannot use this attack as this will leave you with no active Pokemon and will cause you to lose the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14085" LastActivityDate="2016-07-10T23:57:13.207" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31744" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2016-07-11T00:08:00.283" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Count cards ;-)  Less metaphorically: while trying to get better, focus on what micro-optimizations you can do. While playing to win, have micro-optimizations in mind, but always keep your eyes on the goal, which is gathering the five cards and bringing them to a research center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The strategic advice in other posts have looked good to me.  I think I might be able to help with some general analysis.  While it (mostly) doesn't suggest what plays to (not) make, it might help to have the structure and logic of the game spelled out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Time and city cards&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The deck has 48 city cards, 5 event cards and (say) 7 epidemic cards (it makes the numbers rounder without distorting the big picture), for a total of 60.  Of these, opening hands of 8 or 9 cards total are drawn, so on turn one the deck has 51 or 52 cards.  With 2 cards drawn each turn, that's 26 or 27 turns (if you can start but not end your turn on an empty deck).  With n players, the number of turns each player gets is 13.5 (n=2) or 8.66 (n=3) or 6.75 (n=4); for n &gt; 2, one player gets one fewer turn than the rest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that with four players and 6 epidemic cards, between the end of your turn and the beginning of your next turn you will very often have drawn an epidemic card, whereas you get two turns between epidemic with two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You draw two cards per turn. The time it takes to have a well-underway set (3 or 4 of the same color) is a function of how many cards you draw.  Meaning it takes the same number of &lt;em&gt;rounds&lt;/em&gt;, where a round is n turns, but more &lt;em&gt;turns&lt;/em&gt; to get close to having a set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 4-player game you draw 52/4 + 2 = 15 cards (13 at the end of your turns, plus your opening hand of 2), of which 12 (48/4) will be city cards. If the colors are evenly distributed it's 3 of each, so you'll have to rely on card swaps for the remaining two; more likely it'll be 2-3-3-4 or something close to even.  Unless you're &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; fast, most likely each player will only be able to collect one color, and you'll have to choose who collects what around halfway through the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means that discovering a cure is likely to happen quite late in the game, and the special benefit of having a cure (better actions) is likely to be unavailable except for a few turns.  Likewise, the benefits of eradication (which happen when you draw from the infect deck) is greater the earlier you eradicate, but it's likely to happen late or not at all.  (It gives a greater per-turn benefit in later turns, but a greater overall the earlier it's done.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, with two players you have 52/2+4=30 cards, of which 48/2=24 will be city cards, or 6 of each color.  The need for coordination is low, you will likely discover cures throughout the game and reap the benefits thereof, and eradication is often doable if you focus on it.  In my experience you discard a lot in two-player games due to hand limit; after each cure is discovered, it's probably a good idea to count city cards in the discard pile and calculate how many are left of each color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For three players, you get 51/3+3 = 20, among these 48/3 = 16 city cards, or four of each color.  Most likely you can discover one cure without help, but a moderate amount of swapping will be useful.  Also, who discovers the fourth cure?  Having 8.66 turns, you probably can't afford to just wait for the cards to show up, but I haven't played 3-player all that much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Roles versus the number of players&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Medic has powerful actions; the more actions he can take, the better. The more players, the fewer he can do that; his effectiveness is about 1/n in a game with n players—except for synergy with the dispatcher once a cure has been found.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Scientist gains more from drawing and receiving cards, and he draws card more often the fewer players there are.  Receiving cards is made easier by the Researcher (less mobility is required) and Operations Export and Dispatcher (mobility is cheaper).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Contingency Planner can replay event cards, but only those that have been drawn.  The probability that an event card has been drawn since the beginning of the CP's last turn is roughly linear in the number of players in the game, so he becomes more powerful the more players are in the game.  He is enabled by other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Operations Expert has very flexible movement on his own turn and enables the fast movement of other players on their turns. His power on his own turns is independent of the number of players, but he adds power to each other player's turn, so he also gets better the larger the number of players.  He enables other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Dispatcher is both enabled by having more players in the game (allowing more warps), and there is more need for coordination the larger the number of players.  He enables other players, and is enabled to do so by the presence of more players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Quarantine Specialist allows other players to not worry about a given board area.  The number of &quot;safe&quot; turns bought by the QS is the the number of non-QS players.  She enables other players not by adding to their power but by removing an expenditure of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I'm not quite sure about the player-scaling characteristics of the Researcher: one the one hand, other players can take cards from you on their turns, which suggests it's more powerful the more players there are, but that's limited by two factors: 1. you only draw two cards each turn, so you can only give away two cards for every turn you have; and 2. you need to meet up with other players to exchange cards, which is hard unless the Dispatcher or Operations Expert can help.  Also, a larger group of players have a greater &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; for the Researcher by the above section.  On the other hand, with two players the coordination tends to be easy, so once the two of you have a set of five cards you can rapidly convert it into a cure, and you have longer time over which to reap the benefits of having a cure.  Think of it this way: the Researcher has a joint up-to-14-card hand with each other player individually, but it takes longer to get to 14 the more players there are in the game.  (~12 turns for n=4 vs. ~4 turns for n=2.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More about the roles&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of the four that I'm certain get better the more players there are in the game, the Operations Expert is great in a two-player game and the rest are weak.  The OE is awesome in a large game, the Dispatcher is good and the QS and CP are sort of OK.  (As others have said, movement is &lt;em&gt;very&lt;/em&gt; expensive and the OE greatly cuts down on some of the costs.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the above you should not conclude that the best two-role team is Scientist and Medic, or that the best four-player team consists of OE, CP, QS and Dispatcher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Dispatcher has synergies with the Medic if a cure has been discovered; he also makes it easier for the Researcher to deliver cards.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Operations Expert has a two-move combo: build a research center, then discard a city card to fly anywhere. This can often be followed up by one more research center and the removal of a disease cube; i.e. he can act as a one-man strike team and have the crew show up later.  He can also facility card delivery, but this hasn't been a big part of my plays.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Together the Scientist and Researcher can hold 14 cards.  If they have 13 city cards, there is one color they have at least four cards of, meaning the scientist can discover a cure if they swap stuff around.  (It might involve discards, but then there's one less color to hold.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comparing Scientist and Researcher: the Scientist moves the 5-card finish line closer to the starting line.  The Researcher lets you travel faster towards the finish line (2 players) and/or give everyone else a push forward (more players).  Of the two, the Researcher is more effective, in my experience, which admittedly is mostly two-player games.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comparing Dispatcher and Operations Expert: the Dispatcher makes everyone more mobile on the Dispatcher's turn, i.e. in one big burst every n turns.  The Operations Expert makes everyone more mobile on their own turns.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Comparing Medic and Quarantine Specialist: they both fight disease.  The Medic removes cubes from the board; the Quarantine Specialist prevents them from getting there.  It's easier to plan how to use the Medic; it's more luck-dependent with the QS, but you can boost your luck if you keep track of what cards have been shuffled and put on top of the infection deck (and can come up in the future), and what has been subsequently been drawn (and can't before an epidemic shows up).  That's incredibly demanding if you want to keep track of multiple shuffle-and-put-on-top steps; I don't know how big a difference it makes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Event cards&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Unless you're at your hand limit, it almost always pays to hold the &lt;strong&gt;Forecast&lt;/strong&gt; event card until you have drawn an epidemic.  By then, you can plan how to work around the epidemic.  Before then, your plans might get messed up by an Epidemic card.  Also, it is more powerful early in the game, where the number of cards you can look at is three times the infection rate (late game it'll be 2 or 1.5)—i.e. where you can plan the largest number of turns ahead.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Similarly for &lt;strong&gt;Resilient Population&lt;/strong&gt;: hold it until an Epidemic shows up and you have dumped three cubes on a city.  At that point you have the most information, and know what you need to protect against.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;One Quiet Night&lt;/strong&gt; is more powerful the larger the infection rate it (effectively) reduces to 0, i.e. later in the game.  But if you only get 3, or the 2 that saves you from an outbreak, it's probably still a good play.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I always play &lt;strong&gt;Government Grant&lt;/strong&gt; straight away and near the disease or where mobility is needed (e.g. for a card swap), and have not regretted it.  The future is always equally uncertain, so you might as well get benefit for the largest number of turns by playing it earlier.  Likewise for &lt;strong&gt;Airlift&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When deciding whether to spend a card, remember that the Contingency Planner can pick it up later; plan up to and including his turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Miscellaneous&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If someone needs to collect two cards and discover a cure on their turn, they have one action to spend on movement.  This implies the have to start their turn in a city in which they can collect a card, and spend &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; move action to get to another city where they can also collect a card and which has a research center.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If they only need to collect one card and discover a cure on their turn, they can afford two move actions, e.g. one to the collection site and one to a research center, or two to the collection site if there's a research center in that city.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When drawing an epidemic card and drawing the bottom of the infection deck, the newly drawn card is shuffled and put on top.  The Quarantine Specialist is the only role that can prevent an outbreak caused by drawing that card again.  The outbreak can also be prevented with Resilient Population and plain ol' not-having-bad-luck.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ordering of card draws in the infection phase matters: if you have two connected cities, one with three cubes and one with two, if you draw the two-cube city first you get 2 outbreaks, but you get 3 if you draw them the other way around.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Exercise (while playing): whenever you have two or more connected cities, if you were to draw a card for each city in the cluster, count (or estimate) the smallest and largest possible number of outbreaks caused by this chain of events.  Experience report: a city with three cubes that's removed from the deck by Resilient Population can still cost you the game if it's connected to enough large cities.  (We had 5 outbreaks that turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15600" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T00:08:00.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31746" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T07:58:47.770" Score="2" ViewCount="790" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIyNK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIyNK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Unknown pocket monster card back&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbrnt.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vbrnt.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Twelve pocket monster cards in a square&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know what kind of cards these are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17747" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2023-05-10T22:25:51.750" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T10:47:16.203" Title="Pokemon Japanese Pocket monster cards?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31747" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20538" CreationDate="2016-07-11T16:36:39.547" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this thread is very old, but I've enjoyed using the &quot;Red Tape Bureaucracy&quot; Variant, that is popular with some community members.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Red Tape Bureaucracy&quot; Strategy Card can be seen (and printed from) here: &lt;a href=&quot;http://checkwolf.com/ti3/images/high%20resolution/jpeg/sc%20bureaucracy_front.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://checkwolf.com/ti3/images/high%20resolution/jpeg/sc%20bureaucracy_front.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules discussion and explanation is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/757071/red-tape-bureaucracy&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/757071/red-tape-bureaucracy&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Setup the Age of Empire Objective Deck as normal&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-When dealing out the Objective Deck, place one &quot;Red Tape&quot; marker (of your choice) on each dealt Public Objective Card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Objective Cards that have a Red Tape marker cannot be claimed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Red Tape markers are removed via the &quot;Red Tape Bureaucracy&quot; Strategy Card&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17752" LastActivityDate="2016-07-11T16:36:39.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31748" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-11T21:54:18.903" Score="2" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let‘s say a friend of mine and me buy a single core set of Mage Wars, play some games with pre-defined spellbooks and then want to start building our own ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although building a deck can be quiet fun, it also takes a lot of time (as we know from “Star Wars X-Wing”). Do we just simultaneously build our spellbooks and find a somewhat fair draw-method in case both of us want to have the same card? That could take a lot of time before „actually playing“, especially if we have to do the maths manually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In X-Wing we use one of the online builders, build our fleets and if a card is taken by both players, we simply use a sheet of paper as a replacement. Then we meet and can directly dive into the game. In Mage Wars cards a way more important and using a sheet of paper seems silly here. Furthermore I was not able to find a (finished) online builder project. (&lt;strong&gt;Edit:&lt;/strong&gt; Found one: &lt;a href=&quot;http://forum.arcanewonders.com/sbb/#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://forum.arcanewonders.com/sbb/#&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Question: Is spellbook building with only a single core set possible? What are alternatives to the idea outlined above? Getting two core sets seems rather expensive, if each player is only allowed to use cards of “his” set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7135" LastEditorUserId="7135" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T08:16:51.563" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T12:22:53.150" Title="Is spellbook building with only a single core set possible?" Tags="|mage-wars|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T01:19:14.783" Score="4" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does the skull mean on your point card in the heal points?  It goes to 12 and then the next is a skull.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17756" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T01:51:37.117" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T02:01:26.673" Title="What does the skull mean on the wheel of heal points?" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31749" CreationDate="2016-07-12T02:01:26.673" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The skull is actually indicating 0 Life Points (i.e. you are dead and eliminated from the game). This is made more explicit in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://iellogames.com/downloads/KOT2-rulebook_EN.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fifth Anniversary Edition rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdQKb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MdQKb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the skull is one lower than 1 Life Point rather than one higher than 12. The fact that the skull and 12 are next to each other is only because this is a round wheel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T02:01:26.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31746" CreationDate="2016-07-12T05:24:29.133" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are Topsun Pokemon cards from 1997. There was also a 1995 set of Topsun cards, which is more common. They came from Bandai vending machines in a gum and card pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a video of someone opening a pack &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddxzmr7lsu4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on youtube&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also a number of listings &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=TOPSUN+pokemon+card+1997&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on eBay&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2023-05-11T10:47:16.203" LastActivityDate="2023-05-11T10:47:16.203" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31753" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2372" CreationDate="2016-07-12T08:38:20.437" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the other answers are a bit broad, let me add some general tips that apply to every team composition and every number of players (even one). Some may not apply depending on the randomized distribution of diseases at the start of the game (for example, disregard everything about movement if all diseases are in North America), but they should be as general as it gets aside from that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Statistically, it's highly unlikely that multiple cubes are placed on the same city before you can react. This means that &lt;strong&gt;removing a single cube from every 3-cube cities will be enough to keep the game contained&lt;/strong&gt;. If you dedicate all your efforts to this, there is very low probability you're going to lose the game, other than by running out of time&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build about 2-4 research labs early&lt;/strong&gt; and efficiently - don't make the mistake to assume you don't need them because you have a lot of players, or you can build them later, as they're more vital for movement (and of course, winning the game) than anything else. Make sure you place them efficiently, which almost always means &lt;strong&gt;as far away from your currently existing labs&lt;/strong&gt; as you can&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are certain hot zones that are more prone to unexpected outbreaks and hard-to-counter events than others. Other areas seem almost disregardable, such as South America, Africa and Australia, because of the smaller amount of cities and therefore lower probability to become infected. More often than not, you can win games without ever visiting those continents, which saves valueable resources and time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Be aware of which cities appeared in your infection pile so far&lt;/strong&gt;, and what cities will be shuffled on top after an Epidemic. You won't know what's coming, but you will be able to make educated guesses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Others have correctly suggested that using the roles to their full potential is a key factor, however it's equally important not to over-specialize - if your Scientist is the only person ever collecting cards to cure a disease, and the Medic is trying to get to every single 3-cube city by themselves, that's actually counter-productive. &lt;strong&gt;Prioritize working as a team, and consider the special abilities a bonus&lt;/strong&gt; where they apply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While not necessarily as realistic or fun to play, keep in mind that your only objective is that you have to find all cures. You're not dealing with any actual human lives, so just not paying attention to infected cities is perfectly fine, as long as they don't break your back later on.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;One example is if you have a city with 3 cubes, and none or few of the surrounding cities have had cubes on them yet. If you manage to remove that card from the Infection pile, there is no need to ever take a single cube off of it!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I play this game these days, I actually play with custom rules that make the game harder/more random, simply because once you realize taking the third cube off of every city is enough to win most games on regular Legendary mode.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a different note, I feel it's very important to have every player make their own decisions. A flaw of cooperative games with public information is that one experienced player can spoil the fun for everyone by assuming command of the game, turning all other players into mere henchmen. Also, if you realize they can do something really cool, don't spoil it for them, but either have them figure it out themselves or pass on the opportunity - if they figure it out, they will have a way higher sense of accomplishment.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While not directly related to the question, I figure &lt;em&gt;that guy&lt;/em&gt; would be reading this thread ;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T08:38:20.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31754" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-12T10:10:06.663" Score="2" ViewCount="953" Body="&lt;p&gt;Two of the letter tiles from my Hungarian language Scrabble set are lost.  These are bright gray plastic tiles with the letters etched and painted on them.  Is there a way I can obtain replacement for just those tiles?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously I'm interested only if replacement is significantly cheaper than buying a complete new set.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2804" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T22:24:24.197" Title="How do I replace lost plastic tiles for Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31670" CreationDate="2016-07-12T12:00:15.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I will add a precision : &lt;strong&gt;you can always choose to take debt instead of paying.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;From the Cities rule book, an example&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Tina has the required coins but &lt;strong&gt;decides to keep them for later&lt;/strong&gt; in the game: she therefore takes 2 Debt tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even without the rule quoted by Deo, player is free to participate or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17758" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T12:00:15.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31756" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31748" CreationDate="2016-07-12T12:22:53.150" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My wife and i play with the Mage-War Academy core set.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;We each have a custom deck. Since the wizard and the beast master have no common type of spell, it's rather easy.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;However, should we both want the same spell in 3 copies when the said spell is only available in 1-3 copy, you should photocopy it so that both player has acces to the number they chose. i'd recommend sleeving them, cause... y'know... paper. Since the cards are not drawn, it is of no matter if it's different from others.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take special notice of the enchantment cards. They are used as &quot;hidden&quot; information. You should play a completely unrelated card (i recommend using Equipment cards of the OPPOSING wizard) in its stead so that it looks and feel like a normal card. And switching the card with your paper one when it is revealed. Take care to have different &quot;replacement&quot; card for each of your enchants. And write on a sheet of paper the corresponding pair so your opponent cannot accuse you of lying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Be warned that most gaming groups and tournaments will not let you play with fake cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8338" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T12:22:53.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29519" CreationDate="2016-07-12T13:41:28.720" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Bluffing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have very important addition to this part of &lt;em&gt;Rainbolt&lt;/em&gt;'s answer. Catan is game without hidden information. By the rules and how it is implemented in Catan Universe online version, every move in terms of resources is open to everyone. When you gather resources from first settlement, when you roll the dice, when you trade (both people and bank), when you buy, every person have to see what you get and what you give out. Hence, you can remember all resources that every player has. As I see trade, you can't offer resource that you don't have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Trading&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Proposing a trade to the table as a whole is usually just a shortcut for proposing it to one player at a time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have several options to trade, e.g. two or three players agree to trade, you select the one that is good for you. If you don't want to trade with specific player (who have 9 points or you just don't like that guy) you can decline trade request.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11807" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T13:41:28.720" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31758" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31760" CreationDate="2016-07-12T14:20:34.810" Score="4" ViewCount="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Carcassonne Bridges, Castles, and Bazaars expansion you may build a keep on a completed 2-tile city and it will score points once other features are completed in its vicinity. What if the other feature is also a keep? Does it score as a 2-point city, or does it not count?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5721" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-12T16:07:52.133" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T16:54:50.880" Title="Does Keep score points when another Keep is completed?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31759" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31772" CreationDate="2016-07-12T16:27:26.340" Score="0" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baronbarclay.com/product/bridgecolumn071216/July2016&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This&lt;/a&gt; is a link to the whole hand from a Frank Stewart column:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;E-W vulnerable, S bid 1 spade, raised to 2 spades by N. All pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West opened with the king of hearts. Dummy, East and South played low with the 3,5, and 8 respectively. At this point, West knows that the outstanding cards are QJT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;West failed to continue hearts (and let the contract make) because he was discouraged by the 5. But I would have read it as a singleton and continued hearts on the theory that if East had a Q, J, or T, he would have played that card as encouragement. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should one &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; be discouraged by the 5 in this situation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would East discourage with &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; JT5 and play the 5? And even so, shouldn't West then continue with the A to drop South's Q?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;            Dummy&#xA;            Q63&#xA;            763&#xA;            KT3&#xA;            Q863   &#xA;  West  &#xA;  5 &#xA;  AK942 &#xA;  Q72 &#xA;  J952 &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T04:44:52.760" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T03:28:47.617" Title="Should West read a low card as &quot;not&quot; discouraging in the following situation?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31758" CreationDate="2016-07-12T16:54:50.880" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a Keep is built next to another Keep, neither are completed as a city. The next feature that's scored next to &lt;em&gt;either&lt;/em&gt; of them, though, will trigger both. First the Keep that's next to the feature, and then the other Keep that's adjacent to the now-finished Keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T16:54:50.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2016-07-12T19:20:43.797" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The standard agreement is that the Q from East would show either QJ(x)(x) (or a singleton), so East would play the 5 from Q5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given West, dummy, and the bidding, it's quite possible that East has something like JTxx (or KT9x) in trump, which means a ruff might just use up a natural trump trick, so East may very well discourage with any doubleton.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if East has a singleton, leading hearts might just set up declarer's Q while using up (one of) East's natural trump trick(s) on a ruff, so it's not clearly a good play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS1 - this hand is an advertisement both for leading A from AK and for upside-down signals, but of course there are other hands that would advertise the opposite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS2 - no reopening double from West?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T19:20:43.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31627" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:21:50.097" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a game where there is a scoring function, one can always rank players beyond the winner into 2nd, 3rd, etc.  The real question is whether positions beyond first have any value.  That question depends on many things, including player psychology, game design, and external incentives.  Here are some examples of ways that this varies between games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 1: Poker&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Poker is arguably a game of pure external incentives.  You play with money, for money.  The obvious scoring function is how much money players have at the end of the game, using how long players were in the game as the tiebreaker for eliminated players.  One of the significant variants of poker is how cash is dolled out in the end.  In one variant, known as a &quot;cash game&quot;, players can leave whenever they want, taking with them however much money they have at that point.  In anther variant often referred to as &quot;tournament style&quot;, players play an elimination game until only one or a few players remain and the total money put in is given exclusively to the last player or the last few players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which variant is used causes significant difference in game-play.  In cash games, the focus is on having an overall profitable strategy.  Meanwhile, in tournament style, it is much more important to accumulate a drastic chip advantage and eliminate players, and there is usually a 1-on-1 showdown at the end (called &quot;heads up&quot;) which plays very differently than poker at a larger table.  Alternatively, if there is a big enough prize for second or third in a tournament style game, playing very conservatively and just trying to survive can be a very good strategy, despite it not doing very well in a tournament style game that only gives a a prize for first.  While the mechanics of the game are the same between these variants, the strategies differ wildly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 2: Diplomacy&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like Poker, Diplomacy is a game with both an obvious scoring function and player elimination.  Players control supply centers, each of which supports one military unit.  A player wins by controlling 18 supply centers and a player with no supply centers is eliminated.  Also of importance is that Diplomacy is a notoriously long game, often taking about 8 hours with the full 7 players if played to completion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of diplomacy describe the game as only one player wins, but in casual settings, players often form alliances and decide to declare their alliance as winning the game rather than playing the game out to its ultimate conclusion.  In tournament Diplomacy, there is a provision for all players remaining in the game to declare joint victory, in which case all remaining players get a number of points equal to a fraction of the players remaining (so three players remaining in the game would each get 1/3 of a win).  In a casual setting however, it is often hard for players to emotionally differentiate between 1/3 victory and 1 victory, especially given playing to full resolution can take another several hours.  Whether or not players consider a joint victory to be a true victory causes massive differences in the integrity of alliances, since playing to true victory requires breaking alliances at some point.  This causes huge differences in the outcomes of casual diplomacy games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another important factor in diplomacy is that if players have set aside a particular amount of time to play, getting eliminated early can be of significant dis-utility because then they are no longer part of the social event of the game.  This can cause significant differences in game play, including players willing to make disadvantageous alliances simply to keep themselves alive.  I played one game of diplomacy in which one player made a permanent alliance with me claiming he &quot;just wanted to come in second&quot;; it turned out to be true, and ended up wildly unbalancing the game in my favor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 3: Archipelago&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Archipelago is an unusual game in that it is semi-cooperative.  In most cases, a game ends with all players winning or losing together, but then there is also a points system used to define the &quot;grand winner&quot; in the case that all players win.  Having played Archipelago, I have difficulty emotionally differentiating between &quot;losing&quot; and &quot;winning but not coming in first&quot;.  The game explicitly defines a &quot;second place&quot; that most players get, but it still kind of feels like losing.  I care much more how close I came (points-wise) to being the grand winner in Archipelago than about the fact that I nominally won since how many points I have is an indicator of my performance.  I believe the game would be just as good if it was defined as &quot;one player wins or everyone loses&quot; instead of defining grades of victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Example 4: Games with Kingmaking&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a fairly lengthy discussion on kingmaking &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/7487/9999&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.  The relevant aspect of kingmaking here is that players not in the running to win become rogue agents since they are no longer motivated by the stated goal of the game.  This highlights that players usually are trying to achieve the stated goal of the game.  Players then have secondary goals, which may include implicit standing at the end of the game, but can also include getting revenge on a player that screwed them, helping a person they like better, or doing something that amuses them.  Kingmaking is one of the results of the enormous complexity underlying players' actions in games.  The gist of it is that players' motivations are far more complex than a univariate utility function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Asside: Tournament Match Fixing&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is lots of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Match_fixing&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;external discussion&lt;/a&gt; on the topic.  The relevant aspect of match fixing here is that players can be willing to lose games given proper external incentives.  Consequently, tournaments often have very severe penalties against it to preserve the intended incentives of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using Score for Future Games&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The implicit places beyond first are a good approximation for the strength of your strategy, assuming that the outcome of a strategy is normally distributed.  If you &quot;come in last&quot; in a game, it could be a result of bad luck or it could be a result of bad game-play, but either way usually requires a very different post-game analysis than if you &quot;came in second&quot;.  Coming in last often requires rethinking your entire approach, while coming in second may just be about tweaking the finer points.  But even here, we care more about margin of victory than we do about ranks.  If you &quot;come in second&quot; in a game of Catan, with the final scores being 10, 9, 6, and 3, you did much better than if you &quot;come in second&quot; with the final scores being 10, 5, 4, and 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, this becomes less useful if the outcome of the game given a strategy is not normally distributed.  Taking a single incredibly risky move that causes you to win a lot or lose a lot all at once (such as picking up an enormous pile of the discard in Rummy 500, keeping a very difficult set of routes in Ticket to Ride, or trying to shoot the moon in Hearts) will usually cause you to come in first or last depending on whether or not it succeeds.  These moves are typically only good if coming in first (i.e. &quot;winning) is all that matters, since if they fail, they will be very detrimental to your points.  Taking these moves also makes your final points value a poor indicator of the performance of your strategy since the average is a worse approximation of the strategy's chances of success.  For example, a strategy that scores 100 points 75% of the time and 0 points the remaining 25% will win far more games than a strategy that reliably scores 90 points, despite having a lower average score.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Conclusion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have very complex utility functions when playing games.  Some players try to win, no matter the cost.  Some players try to do as well as possible relative to other players, and care about &quot;coming in second&quot; even if the game doesn't say that it counts for anything.  Some players care about doing well relative to their past performance so that they can improve at the game.  Some players will use the scores of the players as a tool to analyze the strategies employed by each.  Some players play for motivations unrelated to the stated purpose of the game, such as to do something amusing or to achieve some external social goal.  There is lots of overlap between these categories, and lots of things (like prizes) that can change players' utility when playing a game.  I believe that implicit ranking is real and is always a factor in playing a game, but how much of a factor is entirely situational.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2017-03-08T01:11:54.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31763" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2623" CreationDate="2016-07-12T20:50:37.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are passing right, always feel free to pass the queen of spades and keep the king and queen as you will never take the queen as long as the person on your right does not lead it, (unlikely)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17765" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T20:50:37.903" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25090" CreationDate="2016-07-12T21:10:21.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The are now expansions that fit the artwork of the new edition and the first expansion does come with a 6th abbot piece. Here is an image of the back of the box showing the 6th abbot piece&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNOXY.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNOXY.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link the the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/carcassonne-inns--cathedrals-universe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Inns and Cathedrals&lt;/a&gt; expansion and the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/carcassonne-traders--builders-universe.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Traders and Builders&lt;/a&gt; expansion with the new artwork. It looks like it is only these two expansion so far.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13107" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T21:10:21.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31765" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31754" CreationDate="2016-07-12T22:24:24.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Try emailing Hasbro.  It is a bit hard to find where to contact customer support.  This should work:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://hasbro-new.custhelp.com/app/ask&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://hasbro-new.custhelp.com/app/ask&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2016-07-12T22:24:24.197" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31766" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31767" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:20:19.273" Score="2" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing a game of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baduk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Baduk&lt;/a&gt; I was thinking that playing a &lt;a href=&quot;http://senseis.xmp.net/?Ko&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ko&lt;/a&gt; &lt;strong&gt;adds a dimension to the Tree of possibilities&lt;/strong&gt;. Meaning it at least double the number of next moves the player may think of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I kind of right ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-02-27T06:43:39.373" LastActivityDate="2018-02-27T06:43:39.373" Title="Does playing a ko add a dimension to the game?" Tags="|go|ko|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31767" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31766" CreationDate="2016-07-13T20:31:11.390" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Ko&quot; is effectively one of those situations where you can hope to get two moves in a row (e.g. if your opponent spends his next move filling, or otherwise removing the ko).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if your opponent chooses to allow you this, it means that the value of the ko is large. (Otherwise he would answer your ko threat and ignore the ko).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Balancing the value of a two move &quot;ko threat&quot; against a ko itself, adds dimension to the game. So does the art of creating these kos, that allow you to make these threats.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-07-13T20:31:11.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31697" CreationDate="2016-07-13T23:53:01.593" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The UFOs will remain over the continent, provided the continent's panic level has not reached orange (panic).  Once the panic level reaches orange, all UFOs over that continent are moved to orbit.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the electronic rules (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/xcom-the-board-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Download the app&lt;/a&gt; -&gt; Menu -&gt; Rules -&gt; UFOS) or the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/54/ec/54ec74ce-1584-4354-9677-7fe1b1085b08/xcom_rules_reference.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules Reference&lt;/a&gt; p11:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a continent has fallen into panic when updating the panic levels in the app, all UFOs in that continent are added to orbit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as it has in the electronic FAQ (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/xcom-the-board-game/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;app&lt;/a&gt; -&gt; Menu -&gt; FAQ):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Do UFOs remain on the board after increasing panic?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: Yes, UFOs remain on the board until destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17774" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T16:25:54.613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T16:25:54.613" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31770" CreationDate="2016-07-14T05:31:58.920" Score="0" ViewCount="1000" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTree%20of%20Perdition%5d&quot;&gt;Tree of Perdition&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, &quot;Exchange target opponent's life total with Tree of Perdition's toughness&quot;, then play a spell before the ability resolves that brings the tree's toughness to 0, does the opponent's life total become 0?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17777" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T13:42:39.070" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T13:42:39.070" Title="If you trigger Tree of Perdition's ability, then give the tree -13/-13, does the player go to 0 life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-14T12:41:09.153" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31769" CreationDate="2016-07-14T05:46:40.550" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No - the Tree's ability will fail to do anything when it resolves. After the -13/-13 effect resolves, the Tree will die as a state-based action. Thus by the time the Tree's ability resolves, it won't be in play so the exchange can't happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The general rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.8a A spell or ability may instruct players to exchange something (for example, life totals or control of two permanents) as part of its resolution. When such a spell or ability resolves, if the entire exchange can’t be completed, no part of the exchange occurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And confirming this, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=247421&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a specific ruling for a very similar card&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Tree of Redemption isn’t on the battlefield when the ability resolves, the exchange can’t happen and the ability will have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T05:52:00.817" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T05:52:00.817" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31771" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-14T10:53:16.733" Score="9" ViewCount="1871" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there any proof ensuring there can be no dominant strategy for chess? By dominant strategy, I mean a way of playing that always works regardless what the opponent do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17780" LastEditorUserId="14474" LastEditDate="2018-12-17T13:48:55.857" LastActivityDate="2018-12-17T13:48:55.857" Title="Dominant strategy in chess" Tags="|chess|combinatorial-game-theory|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2016-07-14T12:51:33.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;East doesn't know West has 5 hearts. If west had only AKxx and east had JTx, then continuing hearts would set up the third round for declarer. So discouraging from JTx, Jxx, or even JTxx (if opening leader could have AKx) is correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On this hand West should definitely continue hearts. It is safe, and given West's holdings in the minors, it's very unlikely that it's crucial to start an attack on another suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, saving your honors when they could be crucial for taking tricks is much more important than giving the right signal. Sometimes you have to trust partner to work it out without a signal. So don't signal with the Q from Qxx.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple more advanced notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is indeed easier if you lead A from AK, since if the lead was from KQx or KQxx, you want to be able to encourage holding the jack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Contrary to the previous answer, the situation when the lead is from AK and small cards are in dummy is actually one when standard carding does better than upside down, since with JTx you want to discourage but may not be able to afford an honor. This is a well-known position.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17781" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T12:51:33.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31771" CreationDate="2016-07-14T12:51:46.677" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since chess is open-information deterministic game, it is bound to have some kind of optimal strategy for both players, which would result in same outcome every time, provided both players play perfectly. IMO this outcome would probably be a draw, but could be victory for either side.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T12:51:46.677" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31775" CreationDate="2016-07-14T17:18:15.253" Score="3" ViewCount="3096" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traitor's instructions for haunt #16, &quot;The Phantom's Embrace&quot;, reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You Must Do This On Your Turn&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  At the end of each of your turns, advance the Turn/Damage Track to the next number. Then roll a number of dice equal to that number. The house blows up if you roll the following number or higher: [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the explorers kill the traitor, does the track continue to advance each round? &#xA;My playgroup was divided between two interpretations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dead players don't get a turn. The traitor is dead, so he/she no longer does anything 'at the end of each of your turns&quot;. &lt;strong&gt;The house is no longer in danger of blowing up.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dead players do get a turn, but ordinarily can take no actions because a corpse can't move / use items / etc. But they can carry out special instructions like the one indicated in this haunt. And anyway, it makes more thematic sense that the bomb would continue to tick down even after the demise of the person that set it. &lt;strong&gt;The house is still in danger of blowing up.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is the correct interpretation?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5783" LastActivityDate="2018-01-07T04:33:11.760" Title="Does this still happen in Haunt 16 even if the traitor dies?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31774" CreationDate="2016-07-14T17:38:13.180" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The house is still in danger of blowing up. The FAQ clarifies that the traitor still gets turns:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A dead traitor can still move monsters, &lt;strong&gt;etc., during his turn&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this weren't true, the heroes could usually pull off an easy win by killing the traitor and then taking their sweet time to scour the house for helpful items. This would be imbalanced, boring, and, as you mention, thematically inconsistent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T17:51:51.530" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T17:51:51.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31776" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31777" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:15:47.837" Score="0" ViewCount="806" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmbodiment%20of%20Fury%5d&quot;&gt;Embodiment of Fury&lt;/a&gt; and I play a land and use its landfall effect on the land that just entered will it trigger entry effects, for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElemental%20Bond%5d&quot;&gt;Elemental Bond&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it seen as entering as a land then turning into a creature or is it seen as entering as a creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16359" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-14T22:31:50.727" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T22:31:50.727" Title="Landfall, land creature enter effect" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31776" CreationDate="2016-07-14T22:27:15.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The land enters as a land, and only later turns into a creature. This is because Embodiment of Fury's effect is a triggered ability, so the ability has to go on the stack after the land enters, and only later when the ability resolves (perhaps much later, if the players feel like responding to it) does the land become a creature. If instead you controlled e.g. a &lt;em&gt;static&lt;/em&gt; ability which said something like &quot;All lands are also 3/3 creatures&quot;, the land would enter as a creature and trigger effects like Elemental Bond.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-07-14T22:27:15.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31778" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2256" CreationDate="2016-07-15T00:57:28.620" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know this post is old but were by chance thinking of Tricked out hero?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17783" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T00:57:28.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31759" CreationDate="2016-07-15T03:28:47.617" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key here is that while a Heart continuation &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; turn out poorly (namely when poor partner was dealt specifically Qx), it will far more often be either safe or best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, a switch to either Spades or a minor suit is neither suggested by the appearance of Dummy, nor the slightest bit appetizing. It was a clear error for West to make switch at trick two, as Stewart makes amply clear in the original column. West's declined an almost guaranteed safe-or-better continuation of Hearts, to a safe-at-best-and-probably-worse switch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T03:28:47.617" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-07-15T08:34:47.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;With the most recent box sets and codexes, there are images for most weapons. Within the weaponry sections and in the second half of the book, there are images that show what each weapon or piece of equipment looks like. Likewise, the back of the box that the models come in will often tell you what the weapons are that come in the box with an example of the model holding it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13542" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T08:34:47.353" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31784" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31771" CreationDate="2016-07-15T23:35:05.040" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the following is true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a dominant strategy for White.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is a dominant strategy for Black.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are strategies for both players that guarantee they don't lose, i.e. perfect play results in a draw (e.g. as in Tic-Tac-Toe).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No one knows which is true.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First-move_advantage_in_chess&quot;&gt;Most experts guess&lt;/a&gt; that perfect play leads to a draw, and a few believe White can always win. It is unlikely Black has a dominant strategy, but no one has been able to rule it out either. Theoretically, a computer working for long enough could just try everything and tell us the answer, but with &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solving_chess&quot;&gt;today's best technology and algorithms that would take prohibitively long&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are some important features of chess that together guarantee that one of the 3 cases above is true:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Chess is a game of complete information, i.e. both players always know everything that is going on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players take turns (as opposed to playing simultaneously, e.g. as in Rock Paper Scissors)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game always ends eventually (at least under tournament rules &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fifty-move_rule&quot;&gt;as of 2014&lt;/a&gt;, after enough moves are made that aren't irreversibly advancing the game, it's a draw).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There is no randomness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are only 2 players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Intuitively, these facts let you completely reason out the consequences of everything that could possibly happen (if I do A, my opponent could do B or C, in which case I could do D or E...). For a more formal explanation of why this implies there are either dominant or drawing strategies, see &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zermelo%27s_theorem_%28game_theory%29&quot;&gt;Zermelo's Theorem&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Parts of this answer are synthesized from earlier answers/comments.]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-07-15T23:35:05.040" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31596" CreationDate="2016-07-16T15:07:52.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;h1&gt;No.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Page 6 of the English rulebook states under the sub-heading &quot;A Short Interlude About Cards&quot; that,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In all circumstances a card can only ever be played for one type of symbol on it or&#xA;  the text effect described in the text box&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When played for their ability, Fenians double all bomb points of cards you played to gain bomb points.  If you had two Fenians cards, you could play one for bombs and one as a doubler.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17791" LastActivityDate="2016-07-16T15:07:52.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31789" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4364" CreationDate="2016-07-17T19:01:55.673" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Actually, in FIDE rules, you have different kinds of time settings :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Up to and including 10 minutes per player, it's Blitz ;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Between  10 and 60 minutes, it's Quickplay&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Over 61 minutes per player, it's Slow&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fisher increments are counted 60 times and added to the base time in order to find the equivalent in K.O. time (no increment). These are the time settings according to the FIDE Handbooks. I can't find where exactly, sorry about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13091" LastActivityDate="2016-07-17T19:01:55.673" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31790" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-17T21:54:31.020" Score="1" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm running a green white Commander deck and wanted to know if I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17810" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T07:25:59.570" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T07:25:59.570" Title="Can I run Loyal Cathar in my green-white Commander deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-18T03:59:48.083" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31790" CreationDate="2016-07-17T22:27:07.200" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alas, you may not. This is because, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/rules.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;per the rules posted on mtgcommander.net&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The back face of a double-faced card is included when determining a card's colour identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, while &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLoyal%20Cathar%5d&quot;&gt;Loyal Cathar&lt;/a&gt; is a white card, a white spell on the stack, and a white creature on the battlefield (or a black creature when it's flipped), its Commander-specific color identity is actually white+black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="15539" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T03:50:17.447" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T03:50:17.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31792" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31794" CreationDate="2016-07-18T17:39:15.430" Score="7" ViewCount="1620" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that I am playing a 1v1 limited game and I have just cast an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Promised%20End%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Promised End&lt;/a&gt;, and I am currently controlling my opponent's turn. If I cast (from my opponent's hand) &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoldaren%20Pariah%5d&quot;&gt;Voldaren Pariah&lt;/a&gt;, and sacrifice three of my opponent's creatures to flip Voldaren Pariah, then the back side of Voldaren says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When this creature transforms into Abolisher of Bloodlines, target opponent sacrifices three creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Who can the &quot;target opponent&quot; be in this situation - must it be me, or can it also be the opponent that I am currently controlling?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17616" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T20:54:02.710" Title="When controlling an opponent's turn after casting &quot;Emrakul, the Promised End&quot;, who is &quot;target opponent&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31792" CreationDate="2016-07-18T17:43:42.257" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It must be you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent is the controller of Abolisher of Bloodlines, so he is the controller of Abolisher of Bloodlines's triggered ability. The &quot;target opponent&quot; is defined based on the controller of that ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ol start=&quot;712&quot;&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Controlling Another Player&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;712.3. Only control of the player changes. All objects are controlled by their normal controllers. A player who’s being controlled during his or her turn is still the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T17:43:42.257" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31792" CreationDate="2016-07-18T17:45:29.930" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are only controlling that players actions, nothing changes about which player controls various objects or who the various players' opponents are. So when they activate that ability (it doesn't matter if you control them or not) you are the one that will have to sacrifices creatures when the triggered ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;712.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Only control of the player changes. All objects are controlled by their normal controllers. A player who’s being controlled during his or her turn is still the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;102.2.&lt;/strong&gt; In a two-player game, a player’s opponent is the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;109.5.&lt;/strong&gt; The words “you” and “your” on an object refer to the object’s controller, its would-be controller (if a player is attempting to play, cast, or activate it), or its owner (if it has no controller). For a static ability, this is the current controller of the object it’s on. For an activated ability, this is the player who activated the ability. For a triggered ability, this is the controller of the object when the ability triggered, unless it’s a delayed triggered ability. To determine the controller of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-07-18T20:54:02.710" LastActivityDate="2016-07-18T20:54:02.710" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31796" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31797" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:01:58.980" Score="7" ViewCount="6900" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have enough resources to build several roads, can I build them connected to each other on the same turn without any other of my settlements or roads to connect to them (excluding the first road)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have enough resources to build four more roads and get Longest Road, can I build a long chain of roads that only connect to each other (excluding the first road)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I have enough resources to build one or more roads and a settlement, can I build them connected to each other on the same turn without any other settlements or roads to connect to them (excluding the first road)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I have enough resources to build a road and a settlement, but cannot build a settlement without breaking the Distance Rule, can I build a road to be farther away from other settlements and then build my settlement only connected to the new road on the same turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17820" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:53:45.363" Title="Can I build several connected roads on the same turn?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31797" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31796" CreationDate="2016-07-19T00:47:58.627" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/catan_5th_ed_rules_eng_150303.pdf&quot;&gt;Almanac&lt;/a&gt; under &quot;Building&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can build as many items and buy as many cards as you desire - as long as you have enough resources to &quot;pay&quot; for them and they are still available in the supply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So as long as you have enough resources in hand, and roads available to you, you can build out as far as you like in one turn, and then add a settlement wherever you want to place it (while obeying the Distance Rule, of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd note that while the Turn Overview says for building a road, &quot;place next to one of your settlements or cities&quot;, that cannot be correct since then you would never be able to build a second settlement (since you could never build a second road out to satisfy the Distance Rule).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T00:47:58.627" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31798" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31800" CreationDate="2016-07-19T08:36:30.400" Score="2" ViewCount="729" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRite%20of%20Replication%5d&quot;&gt;Rite of Replication&lt;/a&gt; is exiled with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEye%20of%20the%20Storm%5d&quot;&gt;Eye of the Storm&lt;/a&gt;, can people pay the kicker cost to still get 5 tokens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15951" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T09:22:16.963" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T15:00:49.607" Title="Eye of the Storm and Kicker Costs" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-07-19T22:04:13.843" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31798" CreationDate="2016-07-19T09:26:46.917" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, you can pay the kicker costs for the each copy if you want the extra tokens.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards copy spells on the stack directly. You cannot choose to pay kicker for those spells, the choice and additional costs are copied from the original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, however, the whole card is copied, and you may cast it as a new spell without paying its mana cost. In that case, you are free to decide whether or not to pay the kicker costs, which are additional costs and have nothing to do with the spell's mana costs:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.32a Kicker is a static ability that functions while the spell with kicker is on the stack. “Kicker [cost]” means “You may pay an additional [cost] as you cast this spell.” Paying a spell’s kicker cost(s) follows the rules for paying additional costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2f–h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may also pay the kicker costs for the original Rite, but that would be a waste of mana, because the original is exiled and does not resolve. Neither paying nor not paying the kicker on the original Rite has any effect on the copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T11:30:39.400" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T11:30:39.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31801" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31798" CreationDate="2016-07-19T12:51:47.077" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the gatherer entry for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEye%20of%20the%20Storm%5d&quot;&gt;Eye of the Storm&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player chooses modes, pays additional costs, chooses targets, and so on for the copies when casting them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a spell with Replicate is copied by Eye of the Storm, you have the  opportunity to pay additional costs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replicate was used in the reminder above, as that was an additional cost mechanic in that block. Kicker follows the same rules in this matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T12:51:47.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31802" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31803" CreationDate="2016-07-19T14:41:54.990" Score="3" ViewCount="1796" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEye%20of%20the%20Storm%5d&quot;&gt;Eye of the Storm&lt;/a&gt; exiles an instant or sorcery card 'when played', and adds it to its effect. When is it considered 'played', when the costs are paid, or when it resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More specifically, if my opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShock%5d&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;, and it moves to the  stack, can I still gett a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterspell%5d&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt; in to remove it from the stack and keep it from triggering Eye?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T17:22:41.467" Title="Eye of the Storm - can I still counter spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31803" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31802" CreationDate="2016-07-19T14:51:12.297" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, countering a spell will prevent Eye of the Storm from &quot;absorbing&quot; it, but it won't stop the spell's owner from casting copies of the cards previously exiled by EotS.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Play&quot; was replaced with clearer terminology 7 years ago. The current text of the card (as you can see at the link you posted) is the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a player casts an instant or sorcery card, exile it. Then that player copies each instant or sorcery card exiled with Eye of the Storm. For each copy, the player may cast the copy without paying its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So Eye of the Storm's ability triggers before you have to a chance to counter the spell. But you get priority before it resolves, meaning you get to cast instants and such while Eye of the Storm's ability is still on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countering Shock will move it to the graveyard, causing the object on the stack to cease to exist. When Eye of the Storm eventually resolves, it will be unable to locate the card to exile it&lt;sup&gt;[CR 400.7]&lt;/sup&gt;. Since EotS wasn't able to exile the card, it doesn't count as an &quot;instant or sorcery card exiled with Eye of the Storm&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that even though EotS's ability can't find Shock, the ability wasn't countered (since it doesn't target), so  it still finishes resolving (by doing as much as it can). Thus, the player who cast Shock will still get to cast copies of earlier spells exiled by EotS (which includes Counterspell in the presented scenario).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;CR 400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [None of which matter here]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T17:22:41.467" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T17:22:41.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31804" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31802" CreationDate="2016-07-19T14:55:34.340" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can counter a spell before the Eye of the Storm exiles it to prevent it from going onto the Eye.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Eye has a triggered ability that will go onto the stack after the Shock has been cast (before you can do anything). Once it is put on the stack (and your opponent passes priority) you will get a chance to cast a counter spell however. Assuming your counter spell successfully counters the Shock the Eye will no longer be able to find it since it is in the graveyard and not on the stack where it was supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5a&lt;/strong&gt; To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7.&lt;/strong&gt; An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are eight exceptions to this rule: &lt;em&gt;[None of the exceptions apply]&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T14:55:34.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31798" CreationDate="2016-07-19T15:00:49.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can use Kicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The total cost to cast a spell = (mana cost or alternative cost) + (additional costs and cost increases) - cost reductions&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eye of the Storm's ability allows you to cast the spell for an alternative cost (&quot;for free&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kicker can be used when you cast a spell by imposing an additional cost. Nothing about casting a spell using an alternative cost prevents this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T15:00:49.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31807" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:06:01.260" Score="6" ViewCount="5111" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Coup if you claim to be an assassin and try to assassinate someone. If they claim to be a Contessa and you believe them you lose you three coins to the bank correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had this argument with my friend, but to me it just makes sense it would be the same as if you try to take foreign aid and someone claims to be a Duke and blocks you. You can call them out and then if they were lying your action would go through. But if you don't the action is blocked so in this case the assassin would lose their coins and no one would be assassinated. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12903" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T19:18:52.283" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:18:52.283" Title="Coup: Do you lose your coins when trying to assassinate a Contessa?" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31806" CreationDate="2016-07-19T21:30:26.920" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you do lose the coins.  While the rules are not available online, this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/86105/action-resolution-order-flowchart&quot;&gt; action flowchart&lt;/a&gt; has been verified by the game's creator as being correct.  I'll go and try and find out what I've done with my copy and try and get a direct quote from the rules for you, but hopefully this should suffice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Joe's comment is correct - although this is from the Coup: Reformation rulebook, it is under the basic rules, not the expansion rules.  On the fourth page, under the &lt;strong&gt;Counteractions&lt;/strong&gt; heading, the last line reads &lt;em&gt;&quot;If an action is successfully counteracted, the action fails but any coins paid as the cost of the action remain spent.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17791" LastEditorUserId="17791" LastEditDate="2016-07-19T21:38:44.010" LastActivityDate="2016-07-19T21:38:44.010" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T00:20:54.680" Score="0" ViewCount="109" Body="&lt;p&gt;The overlord has access to a card called Poison Dart (or Poison Dart Trap) that can be played  whenever a hero opens a door or searches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a hero searches, does this card get played before they reveal an item from the search deck or after? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is important as the overlord may decide not to play the Poison Dart card if the player got an item that can immediately discard the poison condition (such as Curse Doll).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T14:22:59.793" Title="Poison Dart Timing" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31810" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31771" CreationDate="2016-07-20T14:23:43.803" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;essentially, it seems that in a more complex game, it is more likely that there will be a draw. Connect-Four is the most complex game we have solved so far, and although the first player wins, that is due to the mathematical nature of the game (i.e., it is impossible to go back to a previous position like for one side of chess). There is no proof that either side wins in a perfect game of chess, however, a draw is very likely since most expert games are beginning to end that way. We don't have to explore every single chess game possible--just the strongest moves. (NH3 is stupid, guys. It doesn't help us at all)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14381" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T14:23:43.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-20T16:48:57.160" Score="1" ViewCount="1638" Body="&lt;p&gt;A opening bid of 1 Club if followed by 1 Diamond in Bridge shows no majors and 6-7 point, is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T13:01:15.723" Title="A opening bid of 1Club if followed by 1Diamond" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-07-21T07:08:05.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31816" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31841" CreationDate="2016-07-20T21:04:54.507" Score="3" ViewCount="3673" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecitN.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ecitN.png&quot; alt=&quot;The Bell Item from Betrayal at House on the Hill&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Bell item card states: &quot;Once during your turn after the haunt is revealed, you can attempt a Sanity roll to use the Bell.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5+ = Move any number of unimpeded heroes 1 space closer to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is: If moving an explorer one space closer to you means moving them in a direction that would explore a new room, is that legal? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so, how would it be handled? &#xA;Neither The book nor the Avalon Hill Errata explain this. &#xA;Would the moved explorer have to agree to move in that direction? &#xA;Would the moved explorer deal with drawing Omen, Item or Event cards on the Bell owners turn? Or on their next turn? What happens if they draw a tile that moves their character further than one space? &#xA;You could potentially be dealing with turns within turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Besides, it seems too powerful to me to let someone with the Bell have their entire group start exploring new rooms. I think the purpose of the Bell is simply too allow 1 extra movement. Not to hand out entire free turns. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While it is true that the book does not say that you CAN'T use the Bell to move explorers to unexplored rooms - it is also true that the book does not say that I can't stand up and shout &quot;We win&quot; and therefore all explorers immediately win the game. &#xA;My point is that I do not consider, &quot;Well the book doesn't say you can't&quot; to be an acceptable or well thought out answer here.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I only expect an answer for my initial questions so please no friendly notices about how this site prefers a single question per post. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17835" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T11:10:19.907" Title="Betrayal at Houseon the Hill - Can the Bell move explorers to unexplored rooms?" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31816" CreationDate="2016-07-20T21:55:48.413" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I share your opinion that the Bell was probably not designed for free room discovery.  I feel that there are only two portions of the rulebook that address this, which won't be particularly helpful.  Page 12 says that in conflicts between a card and the rulebook, side with the card.  I wouldn't call this a conflict with the rules so much as a lack of ruling though.  Thankfully, the last page also tells us that if there's a ruling question unaddressed by the rulebook, to come to a consensus with the group, and use that.  So ultimately, by the rules, it will depend on your group's interpretation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this were to occur in a game I was playing in (which I'll be honest, shocks me that it hasn't, given some players' propensities for causing these types of situations), I would argue that since you have the option of drawing a dead end, or a tile that would potentially lead further away from the user, the Bell would bring a player closer to the user by moving them along the shortest path already on the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry I can't give you a definitive answer on this one.  Happy Haunting!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17791" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T21:55:48.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31818" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31819" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:00:20.340" Score="10" ViewCount="12123" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing 7 Wonders for about 3 months now, and my friends &amp;amp; I love it.  However, because of the complexity of the game and the large number of mechanics in it, I find it really hard to explain to someone new to the game.  (I've seen this difficulty in others explaining it too.)  I don't usually know where to start, and because of the amount of material to cover, the learner only gets more and more confused as I try to teach them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some of the people I play with believe that the best way to learn it is to just play it and see it in action.  I'm not sure if I completely agree with this.  Surely there must be a good way to explain the game simply and concisely &lt;em&gt;(without merely saying, &quot;Here's the rules; when you're done reading, we'll play&quot;)&lt;/em&gt; so that a newbie doesn't glaze over, but also isn't left completely ignorant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17836" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T09:54:35.823" Title="What's the best way to explain 7 Wonders to a new player?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31819" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31818" CreationDate="2016-07-20T22:38:48.117" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that using the rulebook is often not the best way to teach 7 Wonders. There's a lot of text there. While a &quot;here are your cards, let's go approach,&quot; can work well, most new players appreciate some form of idea.  I'll post the bullet points to my 7 Wonders Crash Course (given fairly regularly at game nights near me). Apologies for the impending wall of text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This is 7 Wonders, in which you will receive a Wonder from an ancient Mediterranean civilization, which you must turn into a shining beacon of greatness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;To do this, you'll need Victory Points, which look like this (Point to a VP symbol).  Building your Wonder will get you some Victory Points, and a cool ability (explain their wonder ability).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can get Victory points by playing cards.  Cards have a cost (Point to the cost of a card) and an effect (point to an effect).  Not all cards have a cost, but most of them do.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;There are seven different types of cards, which do seven different types of things.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First off, we have &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt;rown cards, which provide you with a &lt;strong&gt;b&lt;/strong&gt;asic resource: Wood, Stone, Clay, and Ore. (Have an example card on-hand for each)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next, we have gray cards, which provide you with manufactured resources: Glass, Textile, and Papyrus. (again, have example cards)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Brown cards and Gray cards provide you with &lt;em&gt;resources&lt;/em&gt;, which let you build other buildings.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Next up, we have Blue cards.  Blue cards give you Victory Points, the currency of winners! As you progress through the game, you'll gain access to buildings that provide more Victory Points. (Show some blue cards, preferably from all three ages)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Yellow cards are Commerce Buildings.  They mostly deal with gaining money, which you can use to buy some cards, and to get a discount on buying resources from the players sitting next to you.  (Show them Trading Posts, explain East vs West &amp;amp; purchasing, and also show them a Tavern).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Red cards are Military Buildings.  Military buildings increase your Civilizations strength.  At the end of each Age (indicate Card backs), you'll compare your military score against your neighbors' military scores.  If yours is higher, you get Victory Points! If yours is lower, you lose 1 Victory Point. (Show the tokens, along with a red card).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Finally, we have Green cards.  Green cards are Scientific Buildings.  They allow your Civilization to unlock new and exciting technologies, which are really just Victory Points.  Science is complicated, but very rewarding, just like real life.  There are three symbols on Green cards, Cogs, Compasses, and Tablets. (Again, get some examples)  The more of any symbol you have, the better.  At the end of the game, you receive Victory Points equal to &lt;em&gt;the square of the number of cards you have for each symbol&lt;/em&gt;.  So if you have one tablet, and two compasses, you'd get one point for the tablet, and four points for the compasses.  If you got five cogs, you'd get 25 points!  But that's not it!  For every set of three different symbols, you get an extra seven points!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We also have purple cards.  They don't come into the game until Age Three, so we can wait until then to worry about them.  The important thing is that they get you points for what people next to you have.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That was a lot, huh.  Don't worry.  It all clicks pretty quickly.  One last thing, and we'll get started.  You'll start with a hand of cards.  Each turn, everyone will pick a card to build, and place it face-down in front of them.  Once everyone has selected a card, we all turn them face up, pay any necessary costs, and put them by our wonder. If you don't want to build one, you can also discard it for three gold, or use it to build part of your Wonder.  Then, we pass our cards to the person next to us.  The hands keep rotating around until there's only two cards left, so you never know exactly what cards you'll be picking from on your next hand.  There's a handy chart for what all the symbols on the cards mean in the rules, so you can check it any time you want to, or ask the person that just gave you your cards, if you'd rather not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17791" LastActivityDate="2016-07-20T22:38:48.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31820" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31824" CreationDate="2016-07-21T04:58:35.103" Score="5" ViewCount="371" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thematically, how much land is a single land card supposed to represent?  (It's for a story where the Magic: The Gathering card game is going to become kind of-sort of real through ignorance and stupid amounts of raw, untapped magical talent. ...yes, it is Harry Potter.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17839" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T15:19:53.053" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:18:32.983" Title="How much land does a land card represent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-lore|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31813" CreationDate="2016-07-21T05:47:53.670" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the time being we would assume you are playing a Green system similar to SAYC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are mainly 3 ways of responding to a natural / semi-natural (2+) non-forcing 1C opening:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Up-the-line: You bid your 5-card suits if you have one. Otherwise you simply bid your lowest 4-card suit. Under this method, a 1D opening does NOT deny holding a 4-card Major - you may have zero, one or two 4-card Majors. Say you hold: 963 KJ87 QJ53 A8 , you will usually respond 1D. Opener may either raise, bid his own 4-card Major, rebid Clubs or just bid 1NT. This is very natural and practically does not require extra gadgets. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Walsh: You always bypass any length in Diamond in favour of a Major suit response, unless you hold game-forcing value. Therefore hands like 9 KJ87 QJT753 Q8 are still responded with a 1H, despite you holding much longer Diamond. This has the advantage of letting you find any 4-4 Major fits half a round earlier, but at the cost of bidding space: you are making a higher-level response (1M consumes more bidding space than 1D) which does not contain more information (Under this scheme, 1M response happens more often than 1D) than a lower response.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Transfer Walsh: In order to solve the dilemma between MAFIA (MAjor FIrst Always) and bidding space consumption, Transfer Walsh is designed. You bid 1D to show Hearts, 1H to show Spades and 1S to show Diamond or other minor-oriented hands. This keeps your bidding low while at the same time allowing you to prioritize showing Majors. However, this needs extra agreements with your partner about continuations, and your partnership must be able to cope with interference. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore in response to your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q1: ... shows no [4-card] Major...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A1: Not necessarily. Given your question suggesting 1D denying Major, I assume you are playing Method 2. It usually denies 4-card Major, but only usually, not always. A scenario that you can still hold 4-card Major is that you have game-forcing values and your Diamond is worth mentioning, e.g. x AQxx KQJxxx Qx . You can respond 1D first, and upon opener rebidding 1NT you can reverse into 2H, or if he bids 1S you can make a XYZ or 4SF to further investigate into an ideal game or slam.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q2: ... and 6-7 points...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A2: No, suit responses are unlimited. Your next call will most likely reveal what strength your hand has. A weak hand will pass, make a preference or rebid his own suit, a stronger hand will move on to game or make forcing bids to find out more about opener's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12088" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T05:47:53.670" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31822" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31820" CreationDate="2016-07-21T07:12:56.657" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thematically a land card (or permanent) doesn't represent any physical land, but rather represents the planeswalker's bond with the lands that they visit as they move across the multiverse, they then draw mana through that bond in order to cast spells (although most of the modern Magic stories ignore this). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every type of land in the multiverse has a specific kind of mana tied to it, and as such forming a bond with that land will yield that specific type of mana when you tap into it (hence the term tapping a land).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GadqHggATe8&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Learn to Play Magic&lt;/a&gt; videos.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T23:18:32.983" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T23:18:32.983" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31825" CreationDate="2016-07-21T07:23:36.950" Score="14" ViewCount="1646" Body="&lt;p&gt;I trying to recall the title of a game. I remember its gameplay and mechanics rather well, however its name eludes me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The premise has you as monks who travel around Italy during the&#xA;medieval period, reconstructing holy books. There's a pretty detailed map drawn in the Medieval style which serves as the game board. Edit: Actually the premise is that you are monks trying to construct a common language from analyzing dialects from different part of Italy to come up with a common form of the language. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It uses Action Points system, when you spend 1 AP to move to one&#xA;neighboring province,  3 AP to move two. You can also use AP to&#xA;gather money. The AP tokens are big purple tokens. You can spend some&#xA;AP to unlock more AP.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You are supposed to go to different part of the maps to reconstruct&#xA;books from the different pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Towards the end of the game, the Pope will die and one of the players&#xA;could become Pope depending on certain conditions.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Name of the game is in Latin &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="116" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T15:45:35.190" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T20:37:56.213" Title="Name of the game where you are a monk collecting scriptures and could become pope?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31820" CreationDate="2016-07-21T08:48:10.123" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the more special lands depict a city, or only a single structure. For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSeat%20of%20the%20Synod%5d&quot;&gt;Seat of the Synod&lt;/a&gt;, or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStrip%20mine%5d&quot;&gt;Strip mine&lt;/a&gt;. Others show a very specific patch of nature, that's probably a bit larger than city-size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Perhaps you could assume, based on this, that the other more common lands are about county-sized?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T08:48:10.123" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31823" CreationDate="2016-07-21T10:06:30.997" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;After hunting through various BoardGameGeek lists, I had the idea of looking for games set in Italy (there's actually &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/211408/boardgames-set-italy/page/9&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a list&lt;/a&gt; for that!). The game in question is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/75165/de-vulgari-eloquentia&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;De Vulgari Eloquentia&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="116" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T20:37:56.213" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T20:37:56.213" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31827" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31818" CreationDate="2016-07-21T15:02:25.120" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think most board games become easier to play when you try to breakdown the wall of the game, with the wall of reality (3rd wall in film).  What's important is to use the thematic nature of the game to make sense of the mechanics in &lt;strong&gt;real world terms&lt;/strong&gt; that players can relate too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't disagree with the previous explanation, but I would explain it the other way around i.e what your central goal is first, then the raw materials you need to build them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how I explain 7Wonders to a new player&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You're in control of a new but upcoming ancient city.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your goal is to build the most affluent and prestigious city. Your competitors are sitting right next to you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every building you build creates value VP (Victory Points) for your city and the player with the most VP at the end of the game will win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each building has a type of value, just like in real life, A library might help, research and a barracks might help your army.  There are 7 types of building in 7Wonders, Raw Materials, Military, Science, Commerce, Victory, Advanced and the most special of all your Wonder! &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Show a player their wonder board and draw attention to the steps to build it&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Every turn you much build a building from the available hand you have, every turn you choose your building, pay the build cost and pass the remaining cards onto your opponent sat either side. Remember some build decisions are tactical, to prevent a player from taking a card that benefits them.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Better buildings cost more resources &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;point to the resource cost, show 3 examples from the 3 ages&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; you can either own the resource by building it here, buy the resource cheaply by using a commercial building &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;show yellow card&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; or buy for 2 coins any resource either of your neighbours has.  Due to the long distance of travelling in ancient times you can only trade with your direct neighbours.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If at any point you don't want to build and gain the power of the building, you may pay the build cost of your wonder and sacrifice the building in the name of &lt;strong&gt;Production!&lt;/strong&gt; Remember your wonder gives you special bonus' that other cards wont and is worth VP's too!&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each round is of cards is called an Age and there are 3 Ages in the game.  The better cards come in the last age but cost more resources, so make sure to build up a good stock of resources or gold in the early ages.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each Type of building earns VP in slightly different ways:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Raw Materials&lt;/strong&gt; don't provide any VP but they help you build buildings more cheaply.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Science&lt;/strong&gt; is Logarithmic i.e each one double your previous number&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Victory&lt;/strong&gt; is Linear i.e the number of VP is stated on the card&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Commerce&lt;/strong&gt; is Flexible i.e each 3 coins are worth 1 VP but can also buy you resources in game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Advanced &amp;amp; Wonder&lt;/strong&gt; is Magical i.e It usually adds a special rule that we will look up at the time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Military&lt;/strong&gt; is special as it can steal VP's from your opponents but only winners are rewarded and losers punished, if it's a draw then neither party benefits. Sometimes investing in military can be a costly arms race for little benefit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think this lays out the game nicely for all players.  You can then jump into the first round and explain it in finer detail when people actually make decisions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T15:02:25.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31828" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31832" CreationDate="2016-07-21T18:12:59.540" Score="1" ViewCount="313" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Epic card game I understand that damage taken and received as part of an attack is resolved simultaneously at the end of the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if I attack with two creatures and both receive enough damage via events to kill (break) them, before the defender selects blockers, are the creatures killed instantly, or do they still need to decide whether to defend or take the damage from the attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11928" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T22:00:57.440" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T22:00:57.440" Title="In the Epic card game, when is event damage resolved during the attack?" Tags="|epic-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31829" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-21T18:17:59.487" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T18:17:59.487" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T18:17:59.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31830" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-21T18:17:59.487" Score="0" Body="Monster My Neighbor is competitive card game for 3 to 8 players in which players try to be, or capture, the monster." OwnerUserId="11928" LastEditorUserId="11928" LastEditDate="2016-07-21T22:34:51.270" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T22:34:51.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="75" CreationDate="2016-07-21T19:53:28.013" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accepted answer, while correct, is overly brief. Luck can be reduced in several ways in Stone Age, especially when you think in terms of reducing wasted pips (a pip is 1 dot on a die):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you have no tools, try to concentrate your workers on a single resource each turn. For example, on forest you'll waste 0, 1, or 2 pips on each roll. Your waste per die rolled is 1/7 as much with 7 workers on forest as it is with just 1 worker there. If you spread out your workers with no tools available, you will on average waste more pips.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you get to 2 tools, the tactics for minimizing waste change. With 2 tools, you can now split your workers between forest and hunting and never waste more than 1 pip. For example, you can have 1 worker on forest and 1 on hunt. If you roll a 1 or 4 for wood, you use 2 tools. If you roll a 2 or 5 you use 1 tool. If you roll a 3 or 6 you use no tools. So on wood you don't waste a single pip. On the roll for the hunt, you will either waste 1 or 0 pip, as you use the rest of your tools. This logic extends to more expensive resources as you acquire more tools, though you lose tool flexibility once you get past 5 tools because you'll no longer have the option to use just a single pip worth of tool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition to the above, you can acquire temporary tools from civ cards, which also reduce luck for the same reason as tools do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combining the above, it is possible to pursue a &quot;tools strategy&quot; where you never increase your population beyond the initial 5. This is the most predictable strategy in Stone Age because you are not relying on more die rolls from population growth, but rather more automatic acquisition of resources from an ever increasing number of tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that alternative strategies that rely on high population or concentration of civilization card multipliers can rack up very big scores in long games that will easily beat the tools player. So it's important for a player concentrating on tools to try to force the game to be relatively short by drilling down one of the huts before an alternate strategy gets an unstoppably large economic engine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T19:53:28.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31832" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31828" CreationDate="2016-07-21T21:59:13.697" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.epiccardgame.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/EpicCompleteRules-1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Complete Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;5.16.3 If a champion has taken damage equal to or exceeding its defense in a single turn, &lt;strong&gt;it is immediately broken&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus the defending player will take no damage from the attack. It looks like technically there is still a &quot;Choose Blockers&quot; step even if all attackers are dead, but you can just block with nothing. (Description of Battle Phase: &lt;a href=&quot;http://downloads.starrealms.com/Epic-Card-Game-Rule-Book-v2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt; p12, or Complete Rules 4.4)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-07-21T21:59:13.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31833" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-21T22:08:13.783" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;External links: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/175621/epic-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/175621/epic-card-game&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T06:17:51.370" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T06:17:51.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31834" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-21T22:08:13.783" Score="0" Body="Epic is a fantasy card game by White Wizard Games which aims to recreate the TCG-style experience from a single box. (description from BGG)" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T06:18:00.683" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T06:18:00.683" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31835" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2816" CreationDate="2016-07-22T01:47:19.263" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I remember learning that from a book of 50 solitaire games and I believe it was called Pirates Booty &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17842" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T01:47:19.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31838" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27621" CreationDate="2016-07-22T10:04:10.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Card games often use cardinal seat naming; probably for the intuitive/spatial advantage.  When the number of players forces a decision to be made about how to name a seat using cardinal points, I'd like to offer a few principles that I have long considered and now adopted in my Pinochle Notation (viewable @ &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.powerpinochle.com/forum/PN.php#Seat#&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.powerpinochle.com/forum/PN.php#Seat#&lt;/a&gt; )&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cardinal Naming Principles:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;North is always used.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Always use the simpler/shorter cardinal name (versus using the mathematically closer cardinal point) when the degrees from North lands between two compass points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For pinochle, which may include 2 - 8 players, this is what I would recommend:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;2 Seats: N, S&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Seats: N, SE, SW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Seats: N, E, S, W&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Seats: N, E, SE, SW, W&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 Seats: N, NE, SE, S, SW, NW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Seats: N, NE, E, SE, SW, W, NW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 Seats: N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above successfully avoids using &quot;secondary-intercardinal direction&quot; or 3-part compass directions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, from a programmatical standpoint numerical seat naming is best, but for human comprehension there is usually something to gain from referencing compass points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15470" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T10:04:10.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27621" CreationDate="2016-07-22T10:50:07.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In chemistry, a five-memeber ring molecule has positions named by distance from a given reference point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Call this reference &lt;em&gt;North&lt;/em&gt;. Positions adjacent to North are called &lt;em&gt;alpha&lt;/em&gt;, and positions adjacent to alpha are called &lt;em&gt;beta&lt;/em&gt; (hence these words in the name of some drugs). The distinction is further made by North's handedness: alpha-left is the player immediately to North's left, while beta-right is the player two places to their right, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a six-member ring, the positions relative to North by increasing distance are &lt;em&gt;ortho&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;meta&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;para&lt;/em&gt;. That last is the position opposite North, and so it can be dropped from a five-member ring naming system. Similar differentiation is done using left/right again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to be particularly fancy, you could also use &lt;em&gt;levo-&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;dextrorotary&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;L&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;D&lt;/em&gt;, for left/right respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these combinations also happen to use unique letters for any given position or direction: A and B or the symbols alpha and beta; L and R or L and D; and O, M, P. It is therefore clear which position is referred to, regardless of whether distance or direction is given first in any shorthand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T10:50:07.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31840" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5980" CreationDate="2016-07-22T13:27:49.620" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My white weenie deck's weakness is mass board wipes. Before &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElspeth%2c%5d%2b%5bSun%27s%5d%2b%5bChampion%5d&quot;&gt;Elspeth, Sun&amp;#39;s Champion&lt;/a&gt;'s final ability, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEarthquake%5d&quot;&gt;Earthquake&lt;/a&gt; will work. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFurnace%20of%20Rath%5d&quot;&gt;Furnace of Rath&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyroclasm%5d&quot;&gt;Pyroclasm&lt;/a&gt; works too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But if my opponent can't kill my creatures, I can use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpear%20of%20Heliod%5d&quot;&gt;Spear of Heliod&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVeteran%20Armorsmith%5d&quot;&gt;Veteran Armorsmith&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVeteran%20Swordsmith%5d&quot;&gt;Veteran Swordsmith&lt;/a&gt;, and other cards to get 1/1 tokens to 7/7 first strike, vigilance, flying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things that kill that deck are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArmageddon%5d&quot;&gt;Armageddon&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWrath%20of%20God%5d&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVirulent%20Plague%5d&quot;&gt;Virulent Plague&lt;/a&gt; which is a black enchantment that all creature tokens get -2/-2. But watch out for the mass life gain and the creature that gives 40 or more life I win the game (this one: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFelidar%20Sovereign%5d&quot;&gt;Felidar Sovereign&lt;/a&gt;) :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17847" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-22T18:20:15.647" LastActivityDate="2016-07-22T18:20:15.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31816" CreationDate="2016-07-22T22:14:29.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem with this situation is that the game doesn't define what &quot;closer&quot; really means, so you or your group will have to decide that for yourself. It could be either of the following (if you agree that only physical proximity is of question here):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the character so that the linear distance between them and your character decreases (so if the tile inbetween the two of you was a dead end, you would still move them there)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;move the character so that it will require less movement to get to them&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(as indicated by Samthere in the comments, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://avalonhill.wizards.com/rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Betrayal on House on the Hill FAQ&lt;/a&gt; reads: &quot;[a monster] follows whatever path would lead it to the hero in the fewest moves&quot;, suggesting that this might be the intended way things work in this case as well)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deciding between these options isn't all that trivial, as you could consider special tiles that allow extra movement, as well as special movement the traitor has (such as moving up the Coal Chute) or haunt-specific elements such as monsters or the traitor itself being able to move through walls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've come to a decision on that matter, you can decide whether you count unknown and therefore possible-but-npt-guaranteed pathways as the shortest direction. There are several factors I would consider in making this decision:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you allow unexplored rooms, you help the side that needs to find a room that's still in the stack (either because the adventure requires it, or because a character is trying to get out of the basement, for example)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you could run into the situation where an unexplored room and the explored route both are equal distance to your traitor, and you need a way to handle that (whether the traitor decides, or you default to one of the options)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also the metagame statistics factor: In theory, you could end up at the point where there's no straight tile left in the pile, which you could theoretically know by keeping track of all straight tiles on the board and comparing the list to the total number of tiles in the stack. Therefore, it's possible that you reach the point where it's impossible that an unknown path is the shortest route, because if they do explore that room, it will certainly not provide a direct path to the traitor. The opposite is also true, where you could in theory know that there's only straight paths left in the pile, and therefore be certain that it's the shortest path without being certain which tile lies inbetween.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Now, by all means &lt;em&gt;don't actually keep track of the tiles&lt;/em&gt;, but be aware of that possibility and it's implications on your question: There are situations where you could theoretically be certain, but in reality, you won't be. Personally, I would count this as a reason to never let unexplored rooms count as the shortest route, because in order to call them that, you would have to know they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, though, it's a question that isn't directly answered by the rules and therefore needs to be determined by the playgroup. This is the only real answer anyone can give you prior to further errata being released...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T11:10:19.907" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T11:10:19.907" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31844" CreationDate="2016-07-23T05:16:15.213" Score="2" ViewCount="841" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the setup requires you to have certain zombies in locked rooms from the start, when you open the door to that room do you still draw a card to add even more zombies to that room on top of what setup told you to put in it? (Example being the tutorial quest 0 where it has a fatty in a locked room alone, when you open the door to him do you spawn more?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17850" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T08:55:19.207" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T12:29:04.933" Title="Zombicide Black Plague Spawning Question" Tags="|zombicide-black-plague|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31844" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31843" CreationDate="2016-07-23T12:29:04.933" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;, because the spawned zombies represent the unknown ones being revealed, e.g. the ones hiding under the bed!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Opening a closed building for the first time reveals &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; the&#xA;  Zombies inside &lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt; rooms of the building&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: Page 20 of the rulebook. Emphasis is mine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T12:29:04.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31848" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31850" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:20:01.473" Score="3" ViewCount="466" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is mainly a question about APNAP order, so my opponent taps their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTree%20of%20Perdition%5d&quot;&gt;Tree of Perdition&lt;/a&gt; at the beginning of their upkeep  in response to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTriskaidekaphobia%5d&quot;&gt;Triskaidekaphobia&lt;/a&gt;'s triggered ability. So my question is as the non-active player can I cause &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInfectious%20Curse%5d&quot;&gt;Infectious Curse&lt;/a&gt; to activate between the tree and 13 phobia going off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17856" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-07-23T23:50:06.657" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T23:50:06.657" Title="Infectious Curse vs. Tree of Perdition and Triskaidekaphobia" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31848" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:48:25.063" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I'm reading your question correctly, your opponent controls a Triskaidekaphobia, and you control an Infectious Curse enchanting your opponent. At the beginning of your opponent's upkeep, both trigger. As the active player, your opponent would put Triskaidekaphobia's trigger on the stack, then your trigger would go on top. Your opponent can't activate tree in between.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent activates Tree of Perdition at this point, it will put you at 13 life, then Infectious Curse will bring you up to 14, and you survive. However, if your opponent waits for the Curse trigger to resolve first, they can activate the Tree with their original trigger on the stack, which will cause you to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T21:48:25.063" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31850" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31848" CreationDate="2016-07-23T21:51:48.763" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds like you already know how to figure out the answer. APNAP means active player, then non-active player. The active player's triggers go on the stack first, so they resolve last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing your opponent is the one with the Triskaidekaphobia, since they're playing Tree of Perdition. If that's the case, and your opponent is playing well, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triskaidekaphobia's triggered ability (controlled by the active player) goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infectious Curse's ability (controlled by you, the non-active player) goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Infectious Curse's ability resolves, you gain 1 life, and your opponent loses 1 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Tree of Perdition's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tree of Perdition's ability resolves, and your life total is now 13.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triskaidekaphobia's ability resolves, and you lose.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; control the Triskaidekaphobia, both triggers are yours, and you get to choose what order they go on the stack. But still, however you stack it, your opponent can wait until Triskaidekaphobia's triggered ability is on the top of the stack, activate Tree of Perdition, and you'll lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way you can save yourself from that is if you have an &lt;em&gt;activated&lt;/em&gt; ability that you can choose when to activate. Infectious Curse doesn't help here, because it's a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent is playing badly, sure, they might activate Tree of Perdition before Infectious Curse's ability resolves, and end up with you at 14 instead of 13 when Triskaidekaphobia's ability resolves. But that's not really something you can count on!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-07-23T21:51:48.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31854" CreationDate="2016-07-24T04:58:13.700" Score="1" ViewCount="979" Body="&lt;p&gt;Opponent targeted me with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMoonlight%20Hunt%5d&quot;&gt;Moonlight Hunt&lt;/a&gt;; would my creature &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIt%20That%20Rides%20as%20One%5d&quot;&gt;It That Rides as One&lt;/a&gt; return damage or do any fighting to any of the wolves or werewolves that were chosen to fight me ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17860" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T05:30:31.143" LastActivityDate="2017-01-07T15:57:32.443" Title="Does being targeted with Moonlight Hunt allow my creature to return damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31853" CreationDate="2016-07-24T05:25:37.297" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMoonlight%20Hunt%5d&quot;&gt;Moonlight Hunt&lt;/a&gt; does is specifically what it says: each wolf or werewolf that your opponent controls will deal damage to your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIt%20That%20Rides%20as%20One%5d&quot;&gt;It That Rides as One&lt;/a&gt;. Your creature will not deal damage in return because the spell doesn't say it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that Moonlight Hunt does not cause creatures to fight each other. &quot;Fight&quot; is a keyword that causes creatures to deal damage to each other; which may be what you are thinking of. But Moonlight Hunt doesn't use the word &quot;fight&quot;; so it doesn't have anything to do with &quot;fighting&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T05:38:34.940" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T05:38:34.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31856" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31857" CreationDate="2016-07-24T15:38:48.117" Score="1" ViewCount="235" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering whether there is a card that can make a creature a horror in addition to its other types. The card type does not matter. Is there a card like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14680" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T05:13:45.037" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T05:13:45.037" Title="How can I make a creature a Horror?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31857" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31856" CreationDate="2016-07-24T15:58:29.687" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bXenograft%5d&quot;&gt;Xenograft&lt;/a&gt; is an enchantment that adds a creature type of your choice to all your creatures. There are also many cards that add &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; creature types to one or more creatures, including the creature cards &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAmoeboid%20Changeling%5d&quot;&gt;Amoeboid Changeling&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirror%20Entity%5d&quot;&gt;Mirror Entity&lt;/a&gt;, and the instants &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlades%20of%20Velis%20Vel%5d&quot;&gt;Blades of Velis Vel&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShields%20of%20Velis%20Vel%5d&quot;&gt;Shields of Velis Vel&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T16:04:15.090" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T16:04:15.090" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31868" CreationDate="2016-07-24T16:23:24.107" Score="1" ViewCount="509" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the rules it states that after each player chooses their Alien Sheet, it is placed &quot;face down&quot; in front of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't find in the rules when players should then reveal their alien powers. Do players reveal their alien powers after all have chosen one at the beginning of the game, or are alien powers kept hidden until their powers are used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:46:59.220" Title="When to turn your alien power face up?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31859" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31860" CreationDate="2016-07-24T18:25:59.697" Score="1" ViewCount="468" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let say I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHive%20Mind%5d&quot;&gt;Hive Mind&lt;/a&gt; in game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZFWqf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZFWqf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opponent casts Counterspell on my creature spell. Can I counter the Counterspell with the clone of Counterspell I get from Hive Mind?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="482" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T18:29:15.667" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T18:47:35.773" Title="Hive Mind and Counterspell" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31859" CreationDate="2016-07-24T18:38:11.053" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. By the time &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHive%20Mind%5d&quot;&gt;Hive Mind&lt;/a&gt;'s ability copies your opponent's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterspell%5d&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;, that Counterspell is already on the stack. So you can choose it as a target for your own copy of Counterspell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In more detail, what happens is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast your creature spell, which let's say is a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWeirded%20Vampire%5d&quot;&gt;Weirded Vampire&lt;/a&gt;. (Why would you be playing Weirded Vampire against Hive Mind? Weird, huh.) The stack is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weirded Vampire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent casts Counterspell, and Hive Mind's ability triggers. The stack is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hive Mind's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counterspell (opponent's)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weirded Vampire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The ability resolves, giving you a copy of Counterspell, which you can choose to have target the original Counterspell. The stack is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counterspell (yours)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Counterspell (opponent's)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weirded Vampire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your Counterspell resolves, countering your opponent's Counterspell. The stack is&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weirded Vampire&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Weirded Vampire now resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does mean that (in a 2-player game) Hive Mind basically nullifies any counterspell which can target a copy of itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T18:47:35.773" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T18:47:35.773" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31861" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31863" CreationDate="2016-07-24T19:24:03.473" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my oponent attacks me with a 5/5 creature and I block it with a 2/2 creature with a inferno fist attached to it, can I sacrifice the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInferno%20Fist%5d&quot;&gt;Inferno Fist&lt;/a&gt; after damage has resolved, so I can kill the 5/5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-07-24T21:30:02.777" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T08:06:01.233" Title="Sacrifice inferno fist after creature died" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31862" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31905" CreationDate="2016-07-24T19:32:34.487" Score="0" ViewCount="5135" Body="&lt;p&gt;What is the threshold score you would require yourself to have in order to bank with three,four,five dice left? Assume you are trying to &lt;strong&gt;maximize the expected value of this one turn&lt;/strong&gt; (so ignore things like how many points you or your opponents need to win).&#xA;Rules&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcdGd.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HcdGd.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17863" LastEditorUserId="17863" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T10:09:23.617" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T19:35:47.607" Title="About Farkle Threshold Score" Tags="|farkle|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31863" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31861" CreationDate="2016-07-24T21:33:58.823" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you can't.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any time a player would get priority and the chance to do anything (in your case at the end of the combat damage step after combat damage has been dealt), so-called &lt;em&gt;state-based actions&lt;/em&gt; are checked. These are a series of automatic effects during which no player can do anything. One of those effects cause enchantments to become unattached (they fall off) off dead creatures. Another effect is that unattached auras go to their owner's graveyard. By the time you can take any action, Inferno Fist is already in a graveyard and can no longer be sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat damage step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.4. Fourth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before a player actually gets priority and can do things, state-based actions are checked first:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T08:06:01.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31861" CreationDate="2016-07-24T22:51:33.913" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;By the time you could activate Inferno Fist's ability, it will already be in your graveyard. This is because state-based actions in the Combat Damage Step will see lethal damage on your enchanted creature, therefore putting it into your graveyard. State-based actions will be checked again, seeing an Aura not attached to a creature on the battlefield, which will cause that card to be put in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only after this happens, the active player will actually gain priority, but since Inferno Fist isn't on the battlefield anymore, you won't be able to activate it's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (...), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.5n If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player, or is not attached to an object or player, that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-24T22:51:33.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31865" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-25T03:29:22.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;See &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Farkle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this Wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt; for the rules. &lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/farkle&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;farkle&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;farkle&lt;/a&gt; should also be used for questions about Zilch or any of the other games that are listed on that page as roughly synonymous to Farkle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T06:53:48.957" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T06:53:48.957" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31866" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-25T03:29:22.947" Score="0" Body="Farkle is a push-your-luck dice game." OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T06:53:41.987" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T06:53:41.987" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31867" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31899" CreationDate="2016-07-25T03:39:34.593" Score="18" ViewCount="1018" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently discussing Splendor with a friend who in turn has a friend who's colorblind, and my friend was wondering whether his friend would be able to play the game.  Color-coding shows up in several places; on the chips and the tops of cards the gem types also have different shapes, so someone who can't distinguish colors would still be able to tell them apart, but the prices on the cards and the nobles have consistent shapes.  Thus, it comes down to whether those particular shades of red and green can be distinguished.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Board Game Geek has the following &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/2060178/splendor?size=large&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;photo of game components&lt;/a&gt;, though it would probably be better if the question could be answered from direct experience and not from a photo (which can distort colors):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G6Bs1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G6Bs1.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sub&gt;(source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://cf.geekdo-images.com/images/pic2060178_md.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;geekdo-images.com&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/sub&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1315" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2019-02-16T12:57:02.417" LastActivityDate="2020-01-08T15:53:21.393" Title="Is Splendor accessible to those with red-green color-blindness?" Tags="|splendor|accessibility|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31858" CreationDate="2016-07-25T03:46:59.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;By default, alien powers are revealed after everyone has one.&lt;/strong&gt; The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ihrysko.sk/buxus/docs/cosmic-encounter-rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; does not make this clear up front, but it must be true since the other option you mention is in the Variants section on p14:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Hidden Powers&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this variant, players leave their alien sheets facedown after&#xA;selecting them at the start of the game. While a player’s alien&#xA;sheet remains facedown, its power cannot be used. A player&#xA;may turn his or her alien sheet faceup at any time in order to&#xA;use it. Once turned faceup, the player’s alien sheet remains&#xA;faceup for the rest of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T03:46:59.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31869" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T10:35:02.270" Score="2" ViewCount="2280" Body="&lt;p&gt;Last night I was playing with a group of friends. The player on my right had a &quot;if it's meant to be card&quot; with a dice roll he made of 5. So he can change the roll later in the game. When it got to me. I picked up a event card that the person on my right rolled a might attack of 4. And I had to roll dice equal to my might to battle it. He happened to have the spear as well so that if he won the roll it would increase his might by 2. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I read the card aloud he changed his roll from 4 to 5. I said that the card says the roll and he can't change the roll that is on the card. But the whole table said that he can change the roll. Is that an actual rule?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17864" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:27:49.833" Title="Betrayal at House on the Hill If it's meant to be card" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31871" CreationDate="2016-07-25T11:53:45.527" Score="5" ViewCount="16805" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there anywhere where I can get a full card list just names for sets without all the mana costing and text or pictures. for example in the form:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Card one&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  card two&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  card three&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and so forth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17865" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T15:14:58.860" LastActivityDate="2023-03-14T14:59:48.310" Title="Full written card lists for sets MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31870" CreationDate="2016-07-25T15:50:18.987" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are multiple places to obtain set checklists that approximately match your description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Advanced.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer Advanced Search&lt;/a&gt; allows you to search by expansion. If you choose the output format &quot;Checklist&quot;, the results page will be a list of cards with Collector's Number, Name, Artist, Color, Rarity, and Expansion Set for each.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Scryfall&lt;/a&gt; allows you to search by expansion with the search text &lt;code&gt;set:[set code]&lt;/code&gt; or by using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/advanced&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;advanced search&lt;/a&gt;. This output can be formatted as a checklist, which shows a variety of information about each card. &lt;a href=&quot;https://scryfall.com/sets&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page&lt;/a&gt; also lists all of the sets in reverse chronological order, to easily find the one you want.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Wizards Play Network has &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/en/resources/rules-documents/all/checklist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;deck checklists&lt;/a&gt; for each set, which appear to be intended for use in limited events, but you could print them out and use them however you want. For each card, it lists just the Name, with box or two next to it. However, these lists appear to only go back to Urza's Saga, so if you need the earliest sets, you'll need to look elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;PucaTrade has a &lt;a href=&quot;https://pucatrade.com/cards/expansions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;list of every Magic expansion set&lt;/a&gt;, and each of those links goes to a page that lists the name of each card along with the expansion symbol colored to indicate rarity.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2019-01-11T22:31:41.457" LastActivityDate="2019-01-11T22:31:41.457" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31872" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31869" CreationDate="2016-07-25T16:12:26.740" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;By a literal reading of the cards, yes he can use the 5 instead of rolling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm assuming that you are talking about the Creepy Puppet event. The real question is actually about how the Creepy Puppet event works, moreso than how &quot;It is meant to be&quot; works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player on your right rolls a might 4 attack for the creepy puppet. If you take any damage from this attack, the explorer with the spear gains 2 might (unless you have the spear).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think what you are misunderstanding is how the Creepy Puppet (same with the Bite Omen) works. The attack is still rolled; it's not that he just automatically gets 4 attack power. He rolls 4 dice. If the card just said that he's attacking with 4 damage, then he couldn't use &quot;It is meant to be&quot;, because that only applies when rolling. But here we have a card telling him to roll some dice, and another card that tells him that on a dice roll, he can choose to use the 5 instead of rolling dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that he has to make this choice BEFORE you roll your defense though. So he doesn't know if he'll get any benefit out of using his 5; so it's a risk for him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, there is a good argument to be made for the opposite conclusion (something that unfortunately can happen in Betrayal). When it says &quot;the player to your right rolls a might 4 attack against you&quot;, it's easy to read that as being that the player to your right is just being used as a means of having the game itself roll dice; it's not really &quot;his roll&quot;. It's the Creepy Puppet's roll, the player is just the physical means by which the roll is made. By that logic, he couldn't use the It is meant to be; because that can only be used on his rolls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is whether you want to be completely literal, or give a more relaxed interpretation of Creepy Doll (and Bite).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-07-25T16:27:49.833" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T16:27:49.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="26838" CreationDate="2016-07-25T18:47:26.930" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In 2 -3 player games I found it best to remove a couple of each of the lower value cards making them run out quicker and thus having to buy 7-12 value cards sooner. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17869" LastActivityDate="2016-07-25T18:47:26.930" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31874" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-25T19:01:47.700" Score="2" ViewCount="1562" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDead%20Weight%5d&quot;&gt;Dead Weight&lt;/a&gt; on a creature, is there a time frame to sacrifice the dead weight to another instant speed card effect before the dead weight goes into the graveyard but after it killed the creature it was cast on?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17870" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T00:27:53.437" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T00:28:55.187" Title="Can Dead Weight be sacrificed after it kills a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31874" CreationDate="2016-07-25T19:13:23.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Once a player would get priority, if Dead Weight reduces the toughness of the creature to a value less than 0, or if the damage marked on the creature is equal to or greater than its (new) toughness, State Based Actions will cause the creature to go to the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When the creature goes to the graveyard, Dead Weight will follow since it is no longer attached to an object or player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T00:27:25.437" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T00:27:25.437" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31876" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-07-26T02:09:23.167" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Business Game&lt;/em&gt; is a simulation game in which players compete to mine ore from a mine and transport it for the greatest profit. It was first released in 1965 as &quot;Mine a Million&quot; and was rebranded the same year as &quot;The Business Game&quot;, both by Waddingtons Games. Subsequent editions have kept the latter name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/1920/business-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Business_Game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T09:12:08.787" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T09:12:08.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31877" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-07-26T02:09:23.167" Score="0" Body="A simulation game in which players compete to mine ore from a mine and transport it for the greatest profit. Also known as &quot;Mine a Million&quot;." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T08:57:14.907" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T08:57:14.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31878" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31874" CreationDate="2016-07-26T02:11:45.600" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, there is no opportunity to sacrifice your &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDead%20Weight%5d&quot;&gt;Dead Weight&lt;/a&gt; as the creature it's attached to dies. An aura attached to a creature that dies will head to the graveyard effectively in the same moment as the creature dying (unless it's something special, like a Bestow creature from Theros).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the creature dies: Dead Weight reduced its toughness to 0 or less, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; it brought the toughness low enough that the damage marked on that creature met or exceeded its lowered toughness. The next time anyone would get priority (i.e. usually immediately afterwards) we check &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;state-based actions&lt;/a&gt;, and do all of them we can until there's none left to do. Here, that means we would:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the creature to its owner's graveyard (for having 0 or less toughness [704.5f] or having enough damage to kill it [704.5g] among other possible causes)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move the Aura that is no longer attached to anything to its owner's graveyard [704.5n]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; you get priority, but it's too late to do anything to sacrifice that enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T00:28:55.187" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T00:28:55.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31880" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31867" CreationDate="2016-07-26T08:44:17.263" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If no-one with actual experience can help you out, try one of these as an alternative (taken from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.somersault1824.com/tips-for-designing-scientific-figures-for-color-blind-readers/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt;).&#xA;Of course, you'll need a close-up picture of card (I'm sure there are some on BGG).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://colororacle.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Color Oracle&lt;/a&gt;: a free color blindness simulator that you can install on your computer. It applies a full screen color filter, so you can see in real time how a color blind person would see your design.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you use Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Illustrator you can simulate color blindness by creating a proof. Just go to View &gt; Proof Setup &gt; Color Blindness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7091" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T08:44:17.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31882" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31862" CreationDate="2016-07-26T14:47:01.410" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattbusche.org/blog/article/zilch/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here's an analysis&lt;/a&gt; of the game of Zilch, whose scoring only differs slightly compared to the scoring you've given:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three pairs scores 1,500 instead of 750.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You may score 500 points if you roll all 6 dice and have no other scoring combinations&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiples of the same dice score 100*n^(x-2) instead of 100*n*(x-2), where n is the value of the die and x is the number of dice in the combination.  I.e. 4 twos would score 800 instead of 600, 5 twos would score 1600 instead of 800, etc.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Scoring a &quot;Zilch&quot; (a score of zero) in three consecutive rounds costs 500 points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first three rule differences will slightly increase the expected value of a roll.  The fourth rule difference can be ignored by only following the Zilch strategy when you have zero Zilches.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1299" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T19:03:32.677" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T19:03:32.677" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16709" CreationDate="2016-07-26T15:20:02.770" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hands down the best for Spades scoring is RenegeAid on Android.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.renegeaid.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;www.renegeaid.com&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;We play a lot of spades and made this for serious Spades players since we couldn't find any other app that did it right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17876" LastEditorUserId="17876" LastEditDate="2017-06-02T15:08:42.040" LastActivityDate="2017-06-02T15:08:42.040" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31884" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31885" CreationDate="2016-07-26T16:24:03.240" Score="1" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are the number of cards in a players hand public knowledge? If a player requests to know the hand size of another player, does that player need to reveal the number of cards they have?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T17:43:49.117" Title="Are number of cards in hand public knowledge?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31884" CreationDate="2016-07-26T17:37:41.850" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While there's no specific rule governing this in the rulebook, the board gaming community as a whole seems to agree that the number of cards in a player's hand is public knowledge.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a lot of forum threads that reiterate this answer on both BGG and Fantasy Flight Games (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1523727/misc-questions-regarding-last-playthrough&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1542106/does-genius-have-be-honest-about-number-cards-hesh&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/39640-how-many-cards-in-hand-and-a-question-about-zapping/?hl=hand&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, for starters). The basic reasoning for this is because some alien powers require that information to be public, such as the Mutant and the Genius. (And, if I remember correctly, one of the alternative win conditions for one of the alien races is to have more cards than the other players.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, in the last link above, forum member Adam notes that the online game allows you to check the number of cards in a player's hand, although I haven't played it so I can't confirm whether that's true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T17:43:49.117" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T17:43:49.117" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31937" CreationDate="2016-07-26T18:17:14.457" Score="5" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;My personality is to pick one thing, and then go all out on it. For instance, if I play Civilization, I might tons of a single unit. Or Settlers I might focus on roads. Often this negatively hurts me. The problem is that I just don't have an intuition for how to handle many different aspects of a game. How do I change my mindset when playing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17466" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T01:54:12.153" Title="I tend to focus on one aspect of a game. How do I take the necessary balanced approach that's necessary in games like Seven Wonders?" Tags="|catan|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31886" CreationDate="2016-07-26T18:34:44.087" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well, the first step to changing your mindset is realizing that your strategy could be improved, which you have already done. One big problem with monolithic strategies is that they can be readily identified and countered by other players. The rock-paper-scissor aspect of Civ units allows opponents to build the perfect counter to your single-unit army. A road-building strategy in Catan can be countered by limiting access to brick and wood. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't think about just the potential gain from your strategy, but the potential weaknesses as well. Your monolithic strategy may win if it works, but what will happen if it's derailed? A more balanced strategy allows for more options later in the game, and is not so tightly tied to successes in a particular area of the game. If one aspect doesn't work out, you can always pivot to focusing on something else. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-07-26T18:34:44.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31888" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-26T19:53:20.443" Score="1" ViewCount="783" Body="&lt;p&gt;Has anyone tried modifying the rules of Eldritch Horror so you can play against two ancients at the same time? &lt;strong&gt;How was your experience?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mysteries&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I solve alternating or in parallel?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mythos&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I take a sum or average of myths cards? (Mythos Deck Composition)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do I buy one or two Mythos Cards?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Doom Token&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Greater, average or lower to start? &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Handicap combos&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Extra Action?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bonus for tests?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Acquire bonus?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17880" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-26T21:51:47.570" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T12:51:53.553" Title="Is there an Eldritch Horror variant for playing against two ancients at once?" Tags="|house-rules|eldritch-horror|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31889" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23385" CreationDate="2016-07-27T03:17:54.457" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In an effort to analyze how to get 6 dwarves on the 7th turn, using office room to net ~24 coins, guest room to net ~6 free actions, and primarily banking on furnishings for points (state parlor: 16, food chamber: 12, main storage: 12, broom chamber: 10, treasure chamber: 8, beer parlor: 7), I was able to attain 156.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;6 points (1 dwarf + 5 broom) + 4 actions (averaging 5-6 points) seem to certainly make the 6th dwarf worth getting. Basically trading 16 resources and action for ~33 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;might be able to push it higher by replacing beer parlor and one of the mines with a better food engine/farming/animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Final board state: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9sfI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9sfI.jpg&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17886" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T03:17:54.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31888" CreationDate="2016-07-27T06:38:30.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No playtesting yet, but I was thinking about such variant.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some initial thoughts:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I would sum up the doom of both AOs. If this total drops to 0, both AO's awaken.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The two respective mythos decks are shuffled: First stage of 1st AO with 1st stage of 2nd AO, and so on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each AO has one active mystery. &quot;Advance the mystery&quot; effects allow you to advance the either of these, but not both at the same time.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When having a Research encounter, you may choose from which AO's deck you'll draw.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The biggest dilemma for me is how to treat Cultists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T12:51:53.553" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T12:51:53.553" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31891" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-27T08:24:44.677" Score="-2" ViewCount="3391" Body="&lt;p&gt;I activated &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5b%c3%86therize%5d&quot;&gt;&amp;#198;therize&lt;/a&gt; do I still receive the combat damage from the monsters&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17887" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T08:27:35.443" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T15:45:32.107" Title="Do instants active before combat damage is dealt?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-07-27T16:28:32.310" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31892" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31891" CreationDate="2016-07-27T08:39:37.880" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a timing window in which you can cast Instants after blockers are declared but before damage is dealt. Or you can cast them before blockers are declared. Either works if you're trying to avoid combat damage. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternately, you can choose to take combat damage and bounce them back during the end of combat. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13503" LastEditorUserId="13503" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T12:57:12.180" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T12:57:12.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31891" CreationDate="2016-07-27T13:08:32.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few times during the combat step when you can cast instants between the declaration of attackers and when combat damage is dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Steps in the Combat Phase are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Beginning of Combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Attackers &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Declare Blockers&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Damage&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;End of Combat&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During each of these you will have a chance to cast instants (and activate abilities), so you could cast it anytime in the Declare Attackers Step or the Declare Blockers Step. Dealing combat damage is the very first thing that happens in the Combat Damage Step so if you wait that long, you won't have a chance to cast anything before that happens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a note on terminology, you don't activate Aetherize, you cast it. Abilities like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAzure%20Mage%5d&quot;&gt;Azure Mage&lt;/a&gt;'s get activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T15:45:32.107" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T15:45:32.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31886" CreationDate="2016-07-27T14:01:05.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Going all-in on one thing can be a viable strategy sometimes, but ultimately that strategy is just the core of an overall goal. Also, plans never survive contact with the enemy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Catan, a road building strategy is good for getting to better settlement spots, cutting off opponents, and expanding.  It's not just a road, it helps your other strategies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Seven Wonders, you can pick a strategy initially, but if the cards don't support it or you see a neighbor is doing the same strategy, it might be good to change it up.  Or focus on resources early so you have building flexibility later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've never played Civ, but if your opponent can see your units, shouldn't you be able to see theirs and know when they are trying to counter you?  Also, you could take your units to a third opponent instead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T14:01:05.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31895" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31940" CreationDate="2016-07-27T14:25:58.633" Score="4" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Sid Meier's Civilization: The Board Game (2010)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have just moved an army and a scout together on a tile. Then, in the Starting Phase of the next turn, I found a city with the scout, and the manual states that the army has to &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; move out of the city onto a valid tile where it can end its turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/1a/10/1a1063a1-ee84-44ac-a79a-237277010a6f/civ_rulebook_eng_lo-res.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Manual&lt;/a&gt;, page 13: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are any friendly figures in the square where a city&#xA;  is being built besides the scout being sacrificed, the player&#xA;  immediately moves them to an adjacent square that they can&#xA;  legally end their movement in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the Movement Phase has not yet begun!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;So does this moving out of the tile cost the points that are used in&#xA;the Movement Phase? The Movement Phase description doesn't seem to&#xA;mention this possibility.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, doesn't this add an extra movement point? That seems like&#xA;an exploit.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Or does this mean that that army ends its movement prematurely in&#xA;this turn, ahead of the movement phase?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or how should this be handled? Haven't found anything on this in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/4e/a4/4ea4c8a6-7cf2-45b1-9dc3-6a72994644ff/civilization_faq_v20.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Errata / FAQs&lt;/a&gt;, either. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17866" LastEditorUserId="17866" LastEditDate="2016-07-27T14:55:37.617" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T15:53:07.237" Title="Civilization Board Game - founding cities gives army extra move?" Tags="|civilization-board-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31904" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:15:47.323" Score="3" ViewCount="253" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a runner hits a &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shi.kyu&lt;/a&gt; can the runner use &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/10084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guru davinder&lt;/a&gt; to prevent the damage and both effects?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can the runner decide to take the net damage and then prevent the net damage with &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/10084&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;guru davinder&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the runner does number 1, does that satisfy the &quot;OR&quot; condition and the effect is finished? Or does the runner have to add the asset to their score area now, since they did not take the net damage?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion is that &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/05011&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;shi.kyu&lt;/a&gt; says &quot;MUST take&quot;. Which implies, unless they take the netdamage one of the conditions has to be met. So the runner would be forced to do the second condition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3048" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:02:13.933" Title="Must take net damage vs prevent net damage" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31896" CreationDate="2016-07-27T17:30:18.283" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The official ruling from FFG is that must take (damage) is unpreventable.  The damage has to happen.  Prevented damage isn't taken damage.  So they must suffer the damage to satisfy that constraint on the card.  This is one situation where the card text supercedes the rulebook text.  So for the questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No because the runner did not 'take' the damage.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;No because the damage did not happen so the runner must then take the agenda as a -1 agenda point in their score area.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this clears things up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;#Notrunner&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17889" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T17:30:18.283" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9605" CreationDate="2016-07-27T18:46:25.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is one simultaneous win condition that can happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Corp Score Area:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanity Project  4pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Merger 2pts (worth one more in Runner score area)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Runner Score Area:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Global Food Initiative  2pts (3pt agenda worth one less in runner score area)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Vanity Project 4pts&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So both corp and runner are at 6pts, the runner just stole Global Food Initiative and triggers the swap effect from Turntable and swaps GFI with Merger.  I used Vanity project as a filler to shorten the post.  Those could easily be other 2pt agendas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simultaneous win achieved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17889" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T18:46:25.830" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31867" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:12:43.867" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, I have red green colorblindness.  It comes in a continuum from &quot;severe&quot; to &quot;mild&quot;.  I am near the midpoint (sort of halfway between mild and severe, called &quot;partial&quot;), so there are people worse than me.  Note that while the term refers to red and green, it really isn't that red and green can't be distinguished, but is more complicated (having to do with the sensitivity of the various cells in the retina).  For example I often find blue and purple the hardest to distinguish in games that use those colors, because I'm less sensitive to the red that distinguishes them.  Also, if the game was designed with this type of colorblindness in mind, they might use, for example, baby blue and really dark purple, so that the saturation can be used to distinguish them.  Although I might not be able to name them, I can tell them apart.  I like games that have taken the care to make this additional distinction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, enough background, on to the actual answer.  All this later discussion is based on &lt;em&gt;my&lt;/em&gt; red green colorblindness, if it's a different kind or a different severity, some of these conclusions might be different.  In fact, growing up I knew someone who was completely colorblind and only saw shades of gray.  That would be completely different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the picture in the question, I do have a little difficulty telling some of the colors apart.  However, in the larger version of that picture that you link to, I see the following colors as backgrounds to the numbers (what your comment said were important to distinguish): White, Green, Red, Black, and Blue.  If there's supposed to be an additional color, that's the one I can't distinguish.  When the red and the green are on the same card I can easily see which is which, but they are sort of close.  The card that you point out in a comment (second row, third card) is, in fact, the hardest for me to distinguish, but I'm pretty sure it's red over black.  But I got this by comparing it to a nearby card that had both, I'm not really sure how easy it would be in complete isolation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And that brings up another point about playability that I've found important as someone partially colorblind.  Does the game have the players hold cards that are &quot;secret&quot; or not?  If there actually aren't any secret cards, I can ask other players about the colors I can't tell (which may give away some strategy info), but if there are secret cards that I have to do the color distinction on that are in my hand and not near the board, I can't do a side-by-side to tell, and I can't ask.  So that makes it harder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the backs of the cards need to be distinguished, I can tell you that in that picture the two lower face down stacks look like they are supposed to be different colors, but I'm not sure and definitely couldn't tell which of the two a particular card in isolation was supposed to be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the page you pointed to has a link to an even larger version of that picture.  Having clicked through to that, I can tell you that in &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; picture, I have no problem distinguishing any of these colors, even the card backs are clearly different in that picture.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually having stared at the larger photo a bit as I wrote this, I think I've actually played this game &lt;em&gt;once&lt;/em&gt; and don't remember it as one of the &quot;no play&quot; games.  Having thought this, I clicked through to the description page at BGG, and, sure enough, I remember it.  So, unless your friend's friend is severely Red Green Colorblind, it should not be a problem.  I can't really be sure about more severe cases, but that's my guess.  And, again, if the nature of the colorblindness is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; red green colorblindness, then none of this applies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17620" LastActivityDate="2016-07-27T19:12:43.867" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31902" CreationDate="2016-07-27T19:52:17.690" Score="8" ViewCount="836" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jul16_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; define free information to include:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Details of current game actions and past game actions that still affect the game state. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule refers to the &quot;game state&quot;. What exactly is the that? What does it mean for something to &quot;still affect the game state&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, I shuffled &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGolgari%20Grave%20Troll%5d&quot;&gt;Golgari Grave Troll&lt;/a&gt; from my graveyard into my library with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElixir%20of%20Immortality%5d&quot;&gt;Elixir of Immortality&lt;/a&gt;. I am playing a dredge deck, so I could have dredged the troll. My opponent says &quot;Ten turns ago, there was a Golgari Grave Troll in your graveyard. What happened to it?&quot; Is my opponent asking for free information, derived information, or private information?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: some of the rules for missed triggers in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_22jul16_en.pdf&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt; also depend on the &quot;game state&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:24:40.860" Title="What exactly is the &quot;game state&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31900" CreationDate="2016-07-28T00:38:38.163" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;My interpretation is based on the following premises:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The combination of Free Information and official game information that a judge will provide upon request (Gatherer, Comprehensive Rules, etc.) is sufficient to determine Derived Information.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The combination of Free and Derived Information is sufficient to determine whether any single action is allowed, and what would deterministically happen when that action is taken.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the other free information is clearly and strictly defined, so we can fill in the blanks to determine what current and previous game actions need to be free information for those things to be true. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Any actions that created continuous effects that modify characteristics of existing objects affect derived information, so that information must be free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The number of lands you have played this turn determines whether you can legally play a land, so that information must be free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The number of spells players have cast this turn determines what happens when you cast a spell with Storm, so that information must be free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The names of spells that have been cast this turn determines what can possibly happen if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTwinning%20Glass%5d&quot;&gt;Twinning Glass&lt;/a&gt; is activated, so that information must be free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The number of permanents that have entered the graveyard this turn determines what happens if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBitter%20Ordeal%5d&quot;&gt;Bitter Ordeal&lt;/a&gt; is cast, so that information must be free.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For obvious reasons, it is hard to give an exhaustive list, but I believe this process can be used to determine whether any particular information is free. Also note that there is no mention of actions in the derived information section, so any action information that is not free is private.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the case of the Troll example in the question, there are no cards or rules that care at all about zone changes to non-public zones from more than a turn ago, so the information is private.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T20:24:40.860" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:24:40.860" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31439" CreationDate="2016-07-28T15:59:40.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Many of the cards in my version of &lt;em&gt;Mine a Million&lt;/em&gt; are open to a bit of interpretation, but I think this one is fairly clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This card specifically mentions &quot;warehouse stocks&quot;. It does not mention barges or ships.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar cards for losses at the pithead specify &quot;on the ground (not in lorry/barge)&quot; and/or &quot;in lorry/barge&quot; &lt;em&gt;(wording not exact, I couldn't quickly find the wording online and I'm not at home to check)&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the basis that the cards make it very clear when stocks in a barge at the pithead &lt;em&gt;are&lt;/em&gt; at risk, I suggest the interpretation that &lt;strong&gt;stocks in a barge or ship are safe against earthquakes.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, just last night when that card was showing, I put all my stocks (from both my players) in a ship and left my wife's stocks (from both her players) sitting in the warehouse. Unfortunately she managed to sell them before anyone rolled a 1 or 6 :(&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T15:59:40.910" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31904" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31896" CreationDate="2016-07-28T17:54:08.793" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Firstly, any damage that doesn't have &quot;cannot be prevented&quot; &lt;strong&gt;can be prevented&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, if you choose to take damage instead of adding Shi.Kyu to your score area, it doesn't go to your score area, even if you prevented some/all of that damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it's a valid play to choose taking damage, have it prevented with guru davinder (or any other damage preventer, this is not relevant part), and don't take Shi.Kyu.&#xA;There already is similar ruling regarding Wotan's last two subroutines and Data Raven's encounter ability &lt;a href=&quot;http://ancur.wikia.com/wiki/Prevent_v._Data_Raven,_Wotan_Ruling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wotan and Raven ruling&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A curious person can find different ruling on seemingly similar case &lt;a href=&quot;http://ancur.wikia.com/wiki/Snatch_and_Grab_Tag_Is_a_Cost_Ruling&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Snatch and Grab ruling&lt;/a&gt;. The difference is that S&amp;amp;G is worded &quot;do X &lt;strong&gt;to&lt;/strong&gt; Y&quot;. &quot;To&quot; implies [cost:effect] relations, and as such preventing the cost from being paid prevents the effect from happening. Discussion on this case is here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1271823/snatch-grab-clarification-what-gets-prevented&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BGG forum&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To sum it up, here is a great excerpt from BGG post by CommissarFeesh:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In short though; Data Raven gives you the choice of x (take a tag) &lt;strong&gt;or&lt;/strong&gt; y (end the run). You must choose one of these effects to resolve. By choosing to resolve x, you completely negate y, even if you prevent x.&#xA;  Snatch and Grab though is do x &lt;strong&gt;to&lt;/strong&gt; do y - if you never actually do x, then you haven't paid the cost for y.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="16237" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T20:02:13.933" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T20:02:13.933" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31862" CreationDate="2016-07-28T19:25:49.120" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bank if you have at least this many points:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 dice: 450&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 dice: 1050&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 dice: 3050&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;More importantly, you can easily generate complete strategies for any of the common rulesets &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mattbusche.org/projects/farkle/settings.php&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/strong&gt; (The rules you describe are that site's &quot;Facebook Farkle Scoring&quot; preset, except I changed &quot;triple farkle penalty&quot; and &quot;minimum deposit&quot; to 0 since you didn't talk about those.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that in an actual game of Farkle you would have to adapt this strategy based on how well you and your opponent are doing and what the winning threshold is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-28T19:35:47.607" LastActivityDate="2016-07-28T19:35:47.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31907" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31910" CreationDate="2016-07-29T00:32:04.867" Score="6" ViewCount="3150" Body="&lt;p&gt;Are you allowed to evolve a pokemon to a different type?  For example, I have a leaf Burmy.  I have a leaf Wormadam and a metal Wordamam.  Can I evolve my leaf Burmy to a metal Wordamam?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17739" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T13:15:53.723" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:15:53.723" Title="Pokemon Evolution across types" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31908" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T01:02:20.740" Score="1" ViewCount="1068" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text of the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLone%20Rider%5d&quot;&gt;Lone Rider&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the end step, if you gained 3 or more life this turn, transform Lone Rider.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &quot;this turn&quot; mean only the turn the card is cast, or at the beginning of the end step of every turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am reading the card as referring to &quot;this turn&quot; being the turn in which this card is cast, but a friend of mine is reading &quot;this turn&quot; as following &quot;the beginning of the end step&quot; of &lt;strong&gt;ALL&lt;/strong&gt; turns. The card itself I think lends itself to being probably only meaning &quot;the turn this card is cast&quot;, because it would be I think very overpowered if &quot;the beginning of the end step&quot; means &quot;at the beginning of the end step of all turns&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So my question has two parts, lastly but perhaps more importantly, in the case of ambiguous MtG card text, what's the proper way to interpret the text?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17899" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T23:37:56.670" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T23:37:56.670" Title="Is Lone Rider's ability checked every turn or just the turn it was summoned?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31908" CreationDate="2016-07-29T01:16:39.427" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does in fact trigger every turn (both yours and your opponent's!) in which you gain 3 or more life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_21031101.pdf&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.1. Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger&#xA;  condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “&lt;strong&gt;at&lt;/strong&gt;.” They can also be&#xA;  expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.2. &lt;strong&gt;Whenever&lt;/strong&gt; a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability&#xA;  automatically triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in this case, the ability triggers every time it's &quot;the beginning of the end step&quot;, not just the turn the card was played. (Actually there's one more technicality here:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.4. A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], &lt;strong&gt;if [condition]&lt;/strong&gt;, [effect].” When&#xA;  the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers&#xA;  only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it&#xA;  resolves...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you haven't gained 3 life by the beginning of a given end step, the ability does not trigger at all during that end step.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;MtG has been around for a long time and by now is &lt;em&gt;shockingly&lt;/em&gt; good at having one definitive meaning for the text, so in general if there's something you don't understand, your answer probably exists in at least one of these places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=414324&quot;&gt;Gatherer page&lt;/a&gt; for the card in question - the &quot;Rulings&quot; section may have your answer (not this time though).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_mtgm11_rulebook_lr_web.pdf&quot;&gt;Basic Rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Comprehensive Rules. It'll definitely have your answer, but the answer may be hard to find because there's so much there.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T17:52:03.067" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T17:52:03.067" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31907" CreationDate="2016-07-29T01:39:57.433" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can evolve.   Pokemon evolution doesn't depend on the type of either the basic or evolved pokemon.   What matters is that the name of the Pokemon listed as &quot;evolves from&quot; on the Stage 1 match exactly the name of the Basic Pokemon.    So, for example, your leaf/metal Wormadam state on the card &quot;Evolves from Burmy&quot;.   Either can evolve from &quot;Burmy&quot;, but neither could evolve from &quot;Team Magma's Burmy&quot; .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11536" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T01:39:57.433" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-29T03:27:10.710" Score="11" ViewCount="1847" Body="&lt;p&gt;I had two blank tiles at the beginning of the game. The other letters were not high scoring letters, but I was able to use all seven, for a total of 59 points. Would it be a better strategy to use the blank letters on two different turns, in order to maximize score?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17901" LastEditorUserId="11743" LastEditDate="2016-12-22T17:15:35.363" LastActivityDate="2016-12-22T17:15:35.363" Title="Strategy for two blank Scrabble tiles" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31912" CreationDate="2016-07-29T10:16:57.563" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;People often consider a blank to be &quot;worth&quot; 25 points to a good player. That is to say, even though it has no points value in itself, it can improve your scoring possibilities by about 25 points through, for example, greatly increasing the chances of using all your tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's no single answer to your question and it will depend on the other tiles in your hand, but one way to approach the decision would be the following: if you could assemble a score of more than 34 and still keep a blank in reserve (i.e. the 59 that you could score, minus 25 for the retained blank), then it would be worth doing so. Otherwise, play your bonus word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T10:16:57.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31914" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31917" CreationDate="2016-07-29T10:20:42.047" Score="14" ViewCount="1205" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic, you have two ways to pay for a spell (or ability):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Collect the mana first, then cast the spell and spend the mana to pay for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast the spell, play some mana abilities as part of the casting, spend the mana to finish the casting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can name some situations when the first approach is more advantageous.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;For one, you can collect mana from other sources, like spells.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As spells aren't mana abilities you can't use those in the second approach.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there some situations where the second approach is more advantageous mechanically? What kinds of situations are those?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Let's assume no mistakes are made, so no need to rollback an illegal casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T13:18:57.300" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:33:03.753" Title="Are there times it's actually advantageous to wait to pay mana abilities until casting a spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31915" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31914" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:03:24.970" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is at least one situation where the special timing rules for mana abilities allow plays that would be impossible with non-mana abilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to activate the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSkyshroud%20Elf%5d&quot;&gt;Skyshroud Elf&lt;/a&gt;, and pay for its ability's activation cost by sacrificing the elf to an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=202622&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ashnod's Altar&lt;/a&gt;, you can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T13:13:52.477" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:13:52.477" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31914" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:13:38.747" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;We get a pretty good example from rule 601.2h:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Example&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;You cast Altar’s Reap, which costs {1}{B} and has an additional cost of sacrificing a creature. You sacrifice Thunderscape Familiar, whose effect makes your black spells cost {1} less to cast. Because a spell’s total cost is “locked in” before payments are actually made, you pay {B}, not {1}{B}, even though you’re sacrificing the Familiar. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:13:38.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31914" CreationDate="2016-07-29T13:17:01.800" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can think of one that I used to use back in the Mirrodin days using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMycosynth%20Golem%5d&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Golem&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKrark-Clan%20Ironworks%5d&quot;&gt;Krark-Clan Ironworks&lt;/a&gt;. The short version is that in the case where you cast the spell before paying its cost, you can save yourself from sacrificing more artifacts than necessary. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, you have five artifacts on the battlefield, so your affinity is five. You also have two available land that produce two mana, and an Ironworks. Here are the two ways you could play it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay the costs first. You tap your 2 land, so now you need 9 more. In order to get this to work, you have to sacrifice 4 artifacts to generate an additional 8 mana. This leaves you with an affinity of 1, which gives you enough to pay for the Golem.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast the Golem first. The Golem goes on the stack with an affinity of five, reducing the cost to six mana. You then pay the six mana by (1) tapping your two land and (2) sacrificing two artifacts to the Ironworks for four mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In most cases, the second option is better (unless you are wanting to sacrifice more artifacts for some reason). This is a case where casting your spell before paying costs is beneficial.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a more general sense, the cases where you'd want to cast the spell before paying costs are ones where you want to lock in a casting cost that has the potential to change as you're paying for it. The example above illustrates this principle, and rule 601.2h in JonTheMon's answer has an equally important example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is going to be a little verbose, but the standard is probably something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;If you are going to be paying a reduced cost for your spell because of effects of cards on the battlefield, but in paying the cost for your spell you will be removing those cost-reducing cards from the battlefield, you should put the spell on the stack first and then pay costs.&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T13:33:03.753" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T13:33:03.753" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2016-07-29T16:12:39.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules that our group currently use are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You start building from a major city (like before). In subsequent build turns you build from existing track. Yes, you pay the 5M to enter a new major city. Each player starts with 5 contract cards and picks their favorite 3. After this, each player holds 3 contract cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the start, your current train can deliver one contract per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When you connect a source with a destination, you are able to collect your money.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During your build phase, you can either build track or upgrade your train for a cost of 20M. If you upgrade your train, you can now deliver 2 contracts per turn instead of one. You can upgrade your train to be able to deliver all three contracts.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Remove all event cards (if desired). If you keep the event cards, then derailments prevent deliveries or pickups from the cities listed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you run on another players track, you pay this player 1M per 2 dots on their track round up. If you do, this counts towards the 20M limit for building. I.E. you cannot ride on another's track and upgrade your train in the same turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play ends at 500M instead of 250M. You still need the cities. Each player gets to finish out their last turn. This gives the last player a chance to catch up (and sometimes win).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17908" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-29T16:59:03.270" LastActivityDate="2016-07-29T16:59:03.270" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31919" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T01:06:41.273" Score="6" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Don't get me wrong - I love the fact that being almost nullified early on doesn't necessarily spell out slow and frustrating snowballing doom for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in every single game I've played with people that are not playing for the first time, the last few turns everyone gangs up on the player that is closest to victory at that time. That is perfectly reasonable, until you get to the situation where one of the losing players realizes that someone else is going to win this turn no matter what. And then he basically has the power to choose who that person would be.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My mindset when playing board games is that I should play optimally no matter what happens. If you can't win - you should postpone your demise as long as possible. My friends don't subscribe to that idea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short - the outcome of a game isn't decided by who played the best out of the better players, but who one of the losing players chose to win at the very last moment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the rational behind that choice can be anything from &lt;em&gt;he is/was my ally&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;I just want to start a new game faster&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;I simply like him/her better&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only solution I can think of is add different points for second, third etc. places. However, this goes against the very essence that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;when you play the game of thrones, you win or you die&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How often do you encounter this problem (for me literally every game) and what possible fixes have you found (if any)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16358" LastActivityDate="2017-01-05T20:41:00.670" Title="How to fix very high impact of losing players last turn" Tags="|house-rules|game-of-thrones|balance|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31920" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31867" CreationDate="2016-07-30T07:14:59.097" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.theboardgamefamily.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/IMG_0218.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this photo&lt;/a&gt; of the game components, you can see that differentiating gem symbols have been added to all those previously-ambiguous circles and rectangles! I assume this is a newer edition than the one you found on BGG, so just get a new copy and you should be all set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T07:14:59.097" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-30T19:59:40.250" Score="0" ViewCount="87" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you're playing the game of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spoons&lt;/a&gt;, it's a &lt;em&gt;really good&lt;/em&gt; thing to have all the spoons distributed in way where they're all equidistant from the players.  This is easy to do at a round table.  However, at a &lt;em&gt;rectangular&lt;/em&gt; table, it seems like it's hard to keep it balanced.  When I've played at a rectangular table, we usually have the spoons laid out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6db1f.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/6db1f.png&quot; alt=&quot;Spoons table diagram&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, this gives players at/near the ends a disadvantage.  When someone grabs a spoon and the free-for-all starts, players in the middle have a wide selection, even after several have been grabbed.  But players at the end have farther and farther to reach as the spoons on the ends get taken.  Often, the player without one is on an end.  Is there an better way to keep things balanced at a rectangular table, without giving anyone an advantage/disadvantage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17836" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T02:04:23.003" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T12:39:17.987" Title="Spoons - How to evenly distribute the spoons when playing in a rectangle" Tags="|spoons|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31922" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31924" CreationDate="2016-07-30T23:37:42.120" Score="5" ViewCount="4677" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to learn the new MTG; I haven't played since the original Beta set. I'm playing on PS3 so I can learn how to at least last a few rounds against my son. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here's the scenario: My opponent had a 12/12 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProtean%20Hydra%5d&quot;&gt;Protean Hydra&lt;/a&gt; out. I had a 2/7 Spider with Deathtouch. The Spider blocked the Hydra. The Spider died and the Hydra became a 13/13. Why didn't the Hydra die? Am I misunderstanding Deathtouch?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17915" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-07-30T23:57:36.703" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T23:57:36.703" Title="Why didn't my Deathtouch creature kill my opponent's Protean Hydra?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31922" CreationDate="2016-07-30T23:51:46.020" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The key is that deathtouch only works if your spider damages the hydra. Protean Hydra has the following line:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If damage would be dealt to Protean Hydra, prevent that damage and remove that many +1/+1 counters from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the hydra never technically takes damage from your spider, deathtouch doesn't apply, and so the hydra survives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T23:51:46.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31924" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31922" CreationDate="2016-07-30T23:52:40.000" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Protean Hydra has two abilities that say&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If damage would be dealt to Protean Hydra, &lt;strong&gt;prevent that damage&lt;/strong&gt; and remove that many +1/+1 counters from it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whenever a +1/+1 counter is removed from Protean Hydra, put two +1/+1 counters on it at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the rule for how Deathtouch damage works is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Deathtouch&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;702.2b&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with toughness greater than 0 &lt;strong&gt;that’s been dealt damage by a source with deathtouch&lt;/strong&gt; since the last time state-based actions were checked is destroyed as a state-based action&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, here's the sequence of events in your scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We get to the combat damage step, and the Spider is assigned to deal 2 damage to the Hydra.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Hydra's ability prevents that damage, and instead 2 +1/+1 counters are removed, making it a 10/10. Since the damage was prevented, the Hydra &lt;strong&gt;wasn't dealt damage&lt;/strong&gt; by a source with Deathtouch, so it doesn't die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the end step, because of the Hydra's other ability, 2 +1/+1 counters are put on it for each one removed earlier, making it a 14/14.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You said that the Hydra ended up as a 13/13 instead. That could happen if the Protean Hydra was actually a 11/11 originally, or if the Spider actually only had 1 power, or it could simply be a bug in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-30T23:52:40.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31925" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T02:59:41.393" Score="2" ViewCount="201" Body="&lt;p&gt;We forgot to return the Queen to the board after my opponent failed to cover it, and continued to play. What's the correct way to rectify this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17916" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-08-02T11:09:29.270" LastActivityDate="2017-09-09T14:49:03.500" Title="What should we do if we realise the Queen should have been on the board?" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31926" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31927" CreationDate="2016-07-31T04:01:34.477" Score="5" ViewCount="579" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read the instructions three times, and I can't understand whether the Traveller card being discarded can have been played that turn, then discarded in the clean up phase, or whether it should still be in hand at the clean up phase, and discarded at that point to trade up to the next level of Traveller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, does one need sufficient coins to trade up to the next level during their buy phase, or is trading up free, costing only the discarded card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand that the discarded card should go back in its original pile, not in the Trash pile. I'm just unclear on those two points mentioned above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for your help!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17917" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T04:36:53.887" Title="In Dominion: Adventures, does the discarded Traveller have to be in hand, or can it have been played?" Tags="|dominion|dominion-adventures|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31926" CreationDate="2016-07-31T04:31:39.497" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=1907&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, bottom of p5: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player discards a Traveller &lt;strong&gt;from play&lt;/strong&gt;, he may exchange&#xA;  it for the card indicated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your hand is never considered to be &quot;in play&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;In play&quot; - Action cards and Treasure cards played face-up to a play area are &lt;strong&gt;in play&lt;/strong&gt; until they are&#xA;  moved somewhere else—usually until they are discarded during a Clean-up phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So discarding it from your hand does not do anything; you &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; play it and then discard it from play at cleanup to trigger the exchange. You do not pay for the upgraded card - the upgraded version has a cost only because of the many cards like Remodel that care about a card's cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-07-31T04:36:53.887" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T04:36:53.887" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31921" CreationDate="2016-07-31T12:39:17.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Simply place the spoons in an oval pattern; with each spoon handle pointing towards the players; all equidistant from the players. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T12:39:17.987" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31930" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31935" CreationDate="2016-07-31T15:31:04.303" Score="5" ViewCount="988" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://tappedout.net/mtg-forum/economics/eldritch-moon-is-mappable-bases-in-art/&quot;&gt;There is an issue with US Eldritch Moon booster boxes so that all of the mythic rares in a box are in a single artwork.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My LGS has a policy where you may bring your own packs and only pay a table fee. Last week I won 3 packs, which I decided to save for the next draft. One of the other players opened their prize packs from the same box and with the same art as mine to find they contain a mythic rare.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that I know there is a good chance there is a mythic rare card in at least one of my prize packs, does using these packs with this knowledge constitute cheating?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T07:37:19.217" Title="Is bringing packs that have a higher chance of a mythic rare to a draft cheating?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31931" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="818" CreationDate="2016-07-31T17:10:55.017" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems that the best camera set-up is the one that sees the most squares.  If this is so then having one camera in each corner of the hall around the central white room with two in the room looking through the doors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17919" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T17:10:55.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31933" CreationDate="2016-07-31T17:38:07.903" Score="0" ViewCount="770" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I brought a card with altered art, but nothing else changed on it such as this one: &lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Mxw.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/L7Mxw.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;altered mtg card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; to Friday Night Magic would I be allowed to use it? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17920" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T18:07:41.143" Title="Can you bring cards with altered art to FNM?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-07-31T18:25:38.420" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31932" CreationDate="2016-07-31T18:07:41.143" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy#4532&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; have the following to say about alters:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.3. Authorized Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Artistic modifications are acceptable in sanctioned tournaments, provided that the modifications do not make the card art unrecognizable, contain substantial strategic advice, or contain offensive images. Artistic modifications also may not obstruct or change the mana cost or name of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Head Judge is the final authority on acceptable cards for a tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last line would be the key element - I suggest you &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; ask the Judge prior to the tournament whether you're allowed to play a certain card, and be prepared for a no as an answer just in case (which means bring unaltered copies of the card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not all events labelled &amp;quot;FNM&amp;quot; by stores are sanctioned events, however, and as far as unsanctioned events go, you can bring whatever cards the other players accept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T18:07:41.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31934" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31930" CreationDate="2016-07-31T18:37:03.993" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As hinted on in the comments, if you're not participating in a sanctioned event, this isn't covered by official rules and will therefore be at your store's disgression.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a sactioned event, the tournament rules are in effect, handling this problem &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament%20Policy#4564&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7.2. Card Use in Limited Tournaments&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards must be received directly from tournament officials. This product must be new and previously unopened. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Tournament Organizer allows players to provide their own product, that product must be pooled with the rest of the product for the tournament and randomly distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you're not allowed to bring boosters and hold on to them until you open them. It specifically allows bringing your own boosters as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My best interpretation on how to best handle this situation is that a TO will be in charge of until finally given out at the start of the tournament. The respective TO would be responsible to check that the booster hasn't been previously opened and re-sealed. They also have to randomly distribute them, so you wouldn't be guaranteed to gain any advantage from this at all (you would essentially give away your theoretically higher chance of a good pick to someone else, instead of opening the booster yourself, making your chances worse).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it much more likely to believe that your store is disregarding the above rule and actually letting players hold on to the packs they brought with them. This isn't acceptable from an official rules perspective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, all in all, I can't imagine a sanctioned event in which you could get any advantage from bringing boosters that you only theoretically know having a certain card in them.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;I would rule that this isn't cheating from any angle, in my opinion - if the store allows you to bring your own packs and the TO assures that they haven't been previously opened, then randomly distributes them, the player wouldn't and shouldn't be at fault in any way, not only because they're following the store's procedures, but also because the rest of the boosters could (and in practice will) come from booster boxes that might suffer from the same &amp;quot;tell&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that your local Judge might always see things differently, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T07:37:19.217" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31930" CreationDate="2016-07-31T18:50:10.533" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, it would be cheating. Your tournament organizer must either provide the booster packs or randomly distribute them before the drafting phase. If that does not happen and you try to exploit that fact, you are cheating.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you are well aware that your packs would give you an unfair advantage, you would be cheating. Whether or not your tournament organizer made it easier for this situation to occur by not pooling the packs is irrelevant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;7.3 Card Use in Limited Tournaments&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards must be received directly from tournament officials. This product must be new and previously unopened.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the Tournament Organizer allows players to provide their own product, that product must be pooled with the rest of the product for the tournament and randomly distributed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Judging at Regular REL&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Judging_at_Regular_REL_PDF1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;) don't cover your exact situation, because if the tournament rules were followed, it should never occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, cheating is not allowed at any REL and must be sanctioned with disqualification. Going by the definition in the IPG, cheating occurs when a player does something illegal, tries to gain an advantage, and is aware of the illegality.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-07-31T18:50:10.533" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31936" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-07-31T19:20:23.153" Score="4" ViewCount="5791" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I understand it, in standard Klondike solitaire, you deal 3 cards at a time from the stock to the waste.  What if only 1 or 2 cards are left in the stock?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17921" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T20:29:02.380" LastActivityDate="2020-06-26T20:29:02.380" Title="Klondike Solitaire - what to do if 1 or 2 cards are left in the stock?" Tags="|solitaire|klondike-solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31886" CreationDate="2016-08-01T01:54:12.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;7 Wonders is a game that rewards flexibility.  Moreso than anything else, the winner will be the one who has identified the key weaknesses in the rest of the players and exploits that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem that many players have is they think &quot;I'll go science&quot; or &quot;I'll go military&quot; or some other strategy.  Alternatively, they just pick the juciest looking card every time, with no thought to the ultimate purpose for the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these methods are bad.  7 Wonders is a game about optimising your draft options.  Sometimes that means forgoing wonder levels.  Other times that means forgoing brown resources and other times that means neglecting yellow buildings.  In all cases, what you should realise is that while your civ has strengths, your opponents are revealing vital information about their game plans in each and every draft.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In one 7 Wonders game I played I was Rhodes (who are very, very strong).  I went a very early military building and then pure science and won.  The reason that I did that was that I identified early on that nobody was going science and my neighbours were scared of me going military.  They went heavy brown resources and yellow/blue buildings.  In another game I didn't get a single science card but picked up early game blue cards (which were being ignored by the board), enough military to get my 18 points and denied my neighbours the use of their marketplaces (which were both pointing away from me) by snagging and preventing key resources for their strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all cases, realising that the game was not multiplayer solitaire was enough to give me resounding wins.  Remember not to fixate on a strategy, rather, fixate on your opponents strategies.  You won't be able to counter them all, but you will be able to identify the gaps in demand and exploit them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5786" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T01:54:12.153" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31939" CreationDate="2016-08-01T04:09:12.827" Score="1" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a player attach multiple alteration spells to the same unit? If so, can a player attach multiple alteration spells of the same type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T12:27:45.543" Title="Multiple alteration spells?" Tags="|ashes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31938" CreationDate="2016-08-01T12:27:45.543" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, multiple alteration spells may be attached to the same unit.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the top of page 3 in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/ashes/faq.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Plaid Hat Games FAQ about Ashes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q:&lt;/strong&gt; Can a unit have multiple alteration spells attached to it? Can they be the same spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A:&lt;/strong&gt; Yes to both. You may have multiple alteration spells attached to a unit, and you may have multiple copies of a single alteration spell attached to a unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T12:27:45.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31940" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31895" CreationDate="2016-08-01T15:53:07.237" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Those units can still move their full Travel Speed during the Movement Phase.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the first paragraph of the rules regarding movement on page 19, the rulebook has this to say (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;During this phase, each player, in turn, may move &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of their figures, one at a time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rulebook doesn't go on to restrict which units constitute &quot;all&quot; units. Given the verbiage here, you should be able to move any units that were displaced when a city was built. The rules are also pretty explicit in that a unit can't split its movement points to perform other actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once a figure has begun its move, it must complete its move before any other figure may move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you also wouldn't subtract movement points from those units during the Movement Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule you quoted ends by saying that the units have to go where &quot;they can legally end&quot; their movement. This is meant to prevent units from being able to end a turn on an illegal space should the player decide not to move those units during the Movement Phase. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-08-01T15:53:07.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31941" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-01T17:54:39.920" Score="2" ViewCount="760" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently I have been trying more and more types of cards and play styles to simply see what works and work doesn't, and it has me wondering...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Has it been found that a more balanced play style works better than an all-in-themed play style, or vise versa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, if one is able to snag the flagon and a couple other cards that revolve around the well/village well, should the person use the 2 or 3 occupation moves and a couple of improvement turns to make the well a super power move? Or perhaps is it good to only do maybe 3 turns to enhance and get the well, not going overboard, leaving room to play a couple cards for animals,grain, etc...?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or, does it really come down to the &quot;chaos management&quot; part of the game--meaning it flat out depends on what other people do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="15783" LastEditDate="2016-08-01T23:06:49.993" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:04:31.077" Title="Agricola : In general, is a balanced play style more successful, or all in themed play style?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31942" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15518" CreationDate="2016-08-02T02:42:40.660" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's really no need for all these complicated solutions and rule-sets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless, you are participating in an organized tournament -- in which case, you should notify the judges, because cheating would likely result in disqualification -- you do not need to put up with cheating. When playing a friendly game, there's no reason for anyone to lie and cheat. It throws off the balance of the game and makes it no fun for everyone. Isn't that why we play games to begin with? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played hundreds of hours of Catan (and other games) with my friends and if we ever discovered someone was cheating, we'd probably do our best to fairly penalize them for their misdeeds. If they continued to cheat then we'd simply refuse to play with that person and not invite them to future games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Speaking for myself, if I discovered a cheater, depending on the circumstances, I would probably refuse to play as long as that person was playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that's not an option, then yes, make up some house-rules to deal with the situation. If it is an ongoing problem then implement an immediate-lose rule which forces them out of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:42:40.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31796" CreationDate="2016-08-02T02:53:45.363" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, of course. You can build as many things as you want, as long as you can afford to and you're not breaking the rules. The game gives you this freedom while discouraging hoarding by threatening to take half of your resource cards when someone rolls a 7. Some people get lucky, they hoard tons of cards and then build 5 or 6 roads in a row -- all at once -- to steal the longest road. But this almost never happens. I've probably seen it once or twice, ever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T02:53:45.363" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31945" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29098" CreationDate="2016-08-02T03:07:01.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Absolutely NOT.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Longest Road and Largest Army are rewards for achievement, nothing more. Sure, the soldier/knight cards allow you move the robber, but only once when that card is played. You are allowed to continue playing soldier/knight cards after you've achieved largest army. In fact, it's not a bad idea because if you have played 3 and someone comes along and plays 4 then you lose your largest army. As long as you keep playing soldier/knight cards you can continue to move the robber, but never more than once per card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6855" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T03:07:01.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31948" CreationDate="2016-08-02T04:07:04.513" Score="4" ViewCount="2968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for the name of a game that my friends call Fish (note: &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; Go Fish). I have reason to believe this isn't the real name of the game, because I can't find a game called Fish (that isn't Go Fish) anywhere, even on Pagat. (It may be actually possible, in this case, that this game is uniquely new, created where my friends play it, but I still find this unlikely.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game setup works as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards are grouped into half-suits: one low, one high, of six cards each. Low is 2-7, high is 9-A. There is a ninth half suit: the eights, and two jokers. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;An even number of players four or more sit around a table; every other person is on the same team. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The cards are dealt out to completion to each player. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players may not communicate about the game. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The gameplay works as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When any player thinks the players on their team collectively hold all the cards in a half suit, they may say so. Cards in that half-suits are revealed, and if they're right, the team scores a point. If they're wrong, the other team scores a point. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The player whose turn it is may ask an opposing player for a specific card - suit and number - under the following conditions:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They must have that half suit in their hand. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;They must not have the card they ask about in their hand. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player guesses correctly, the opponent hands them the card, and the player guesses again. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the player guesses incorrectly, their turn ends and the opponent they asked the incorrect question to takes the next turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game ends when one team scores five points. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are another couple smaller rules, but hopefully this is enough to figure it out. It's mostly complete. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the &lt;em&gt;actual&lt;/em&gt; name of this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user7139" LastEditorUserId="22346" LastEditDate="2018-07-25T16:38:58.437" LastActivityDate="2020-08-23T17:26:30.687" Title="What is the actual name of this card game similar to Go Fish, but with teams and complications?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31947" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14808" CreationDate="2016-08-02T09:39:52.113" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes, total score is a good way to assess the quality of a scrabble game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, in the instructions for an old scrabble set that my parents have, this method is specifically recommended. I can't remember all the cut-offs, but they say that a points-total of 700 or over represents an excellent game (presumably in the context of casual, home play).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this an effective measure? If you add up the points on all the tiles in a scrabble set, there are a total of 187. So this is the absolute minimum total score achievable (in practice a bit higher, since it is impossible to avoid scoring some tiles twice when adding words to the board). Players use their skill to get &quot;added value&quot; out of their tiles. They can do this by the use of bonus squares, perhaps targeted specifically at their high-scoring tiles, by scoring letters more than once (e.g. adding an S to existing words on the board), and by getting 50-point bingo bonuses. &lt;strong&gt;In general, the greater the skill of the players, the more value they will be able to add to the base score of their tiles.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As @TimLymington mentions, the measure is not perfect, since a good defensive player may be able to restrict their opponent's score. But in my experience this contributes only a small amount to the flow of high-standard games, since expert players are able to make good plays out of all but the worst situations. The more complex method described by @Ricky provides one way of, at least partially, taking this into account, but is clearly considerably more difficult to apply, and adding up a total score is a good approximation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also that of the other possible measures that are suggested in the original question, most do in fact contribute to the final points score, and so are also useful, but coarser measures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T09:39:52.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31948" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31946" CreationDate="2016-08-02T10:08:29.797" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your description seems to match the one of a card game called &lt;em&gt;Literature&lt;/em&gt; which is apparently sometimes called &lt;em&gt;Canadian Fish&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found references to it on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Literature_(card_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/quartet/literature.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pagat&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T10:08:29.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31949" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3977" CreationDate="2016-08-02T11:01:18.630" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes - I grew up with English Descriptive Notation and still use it. I don't like algebraic notation so I've never used it or felt inclined to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17932" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T11:01:18.630" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31941" CreationDate="2016-08-02T12:04:29.577" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is: it depends. Agricola is quite a complex game and there are all sorts of variables at play that determine your strategy. You have already said that you are trying out various different strategies. Keep doing that, and see what works!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The longer answer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I've found from my own experience is that &lt;strong&gt;going for an all-out strategy too early (i.e. in stage 1) is counter-productive&lt;/strong&gt;. Time spent playing those minor improvements early means that you miss out on gathering resources for a room, and so you are the last to grow your family, or that you fail to get a food engine set up, and later have to spend too many turns taking &quot;fishing&quot; or &quot;day labourer&quot;. In addition to this, by neglecting the more conventional moves like taking wood, you leave nice juicy piles that your opponents can take (particularly in games with fewer players).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Stages 2-3 are often the time to get your nice combi-strategy going, once you have got established a bit. It's early enough that you will still reap the benefits, but (if you've done your preparation well) not so soon that you'll starve. It's also nice and efficient since you can play your major and minor improvements in combination with family growth or renovation. Here you can be fairly single minded, &lt;strong&gt;as long as you don't neglect growing your family&lt;/strong&gt;. Family growth is massively powerful since it gets you extra actions &lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; extra points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Late in the game, it's time to diversify. The scoring system of Agricola is heavily biased towards having a balanced farm &lt;em&gt;at the end of the game&lt;/em&gt;. As @Samthere mentions, the best marginal gains are to be found by making sure that you don't have any -1 points - if you are lacking, it's fairly easy to pick up a single sheep for an instant 2 point gain. Because of this, and the caps at 4 points for most categories, the winning farm is nearly always one that is a good all-rounder. However, there's nothing to stop you from employing a single-minded strategy earlier in the game, as long as you balance things up at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final note: depending on your mindset, the victory points may only be half the story. To me, coming up with a great synergy of cards is &lt;strong&gt;fun&lt;/strong&gt;, even if it's not necessarily the absolute best strategy at the time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastActivityDate="2016-08-02T12:04:29.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31951" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31954" CreationDate="2016-08-02T22:19:53.850" Score="3" ViewCount="7449" Body="&lt;p&gt;Parcheesi is a race between four players. Each player moves four pawns from their starting point, around the board and then into the center.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Parcheesi, is it possible to use just 1 die at the end rather than 2 for moves less than 7 spaces? I play by the rules, and there is no rule on dice usage at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17912" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2020-03-09T10:34:52.597" LastActivityDate="2020-03-09T10:34:52.597" Title="Is using 1 die when all but 1 piece is in home and the last piece near home ok, or do I use both dice like usual?" Tags="|parcheesi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31952" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-02T23:41:29.380" Score="1" ViewCount="442" Body="&lt;p&gt;If my partner responds 2D to my 1NT opening bid. I have zero to 2 cards in Hearts.&#xA;What do I bid?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17937" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-05T18:25:00.467" LastActivityDate="2019-03-05T18:25:00.467" Title="Jacoby transfer bid after responder bids" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31952" CreationDate="2016-08-03T00:32:56.523" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;(Note that some unusual systems may behave differently, but I think I'm giving the right answer to all of the common systems employing transfers, including Standard American (and 2/1), Acol, SEF, and Precision.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A 1NT opening bid promises a balanced hand (or sometimes a semibalanced hand) as well as the agreed point range.  This means you must have at least 2 cards in every suit to open 1NT.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have only 2 cards in hearts, you still bid 2H.  If partner has a weak hand, then playing in a 5-2 fit at the 2 level is still your best contract (and, in particular, better than 1NT or 2NT).  If partner has an invitational or better hand, you will have more chances to clarify whether you have only 2 or at least 3 cards in hearts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T00:32:56.523" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31954" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31951" CreationDate="2016-08-03T01:24:17.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is no specific rule that allows you to change the dice usage at the end of the game, then you must roll the dice as always. However, after reading the rules more carefully, rolling only one die would actually be a disadvantage. The dies are used separately, not necessarily added together to move. That is, if you are 3 spaces away (a move less than 7 as you stated) and you roll a 4 and a 3, you use the 3 and it's done. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this &lt;a href=&quot;http://howdoyouplayit.com/parcheesi-rules-play-parcheesi/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;website&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Die may be combined to move one piece, or may be used separately to&#xA;  move separate pieces, but you may not split a singular die to move two&#xA;  pieces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T01:24:17.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31955" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31952" CreationDate="2016-08-03T04:44:38.440" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;tl;dr 2H&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think you need to understand the concept of Captaincy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the process of bidding, it is not always the case where both players are trying to exchange information on an even ground. Sometimes one player will become the Captain and await his partner to give him the information. In other words, the Captain has the say to this bidding sequence. His partner should follow and respect the Captain's decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your scenario, whenever you open a natural 1NT, you immediately surrender your hand to his partner. Your partner will dictate how the bidding should go. If he decides a transfer should complete this bidding, you are obliged to accept this transfer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two circumstances that you can have a say about the bidding:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) When partner passes the ball back to you. Example: You open 1NT, letting your partner do whatever he likes. He now bids a natural 2NT as an invitation. Now he passes the ball to you and you will decide whether you should go game or settle for partscore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) When you like what your partner is doing and decide that a simple &quot;I accept&quot; response is not enough to allow partner make the correct decision. Example: You open 1NT, your partner bids 2D as a transfer to 2H. You hold massive (say 4-card) support and good controls, and you are afraid that a simple 2H response will make your partner ship miss a light game. You can refuse this transfer by bidding 3H, or some other bids that your partnership has agreed to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You open 1NT thereby letting your partner be the captain. He asks you to bid 2H. He does not pass the decision to you and you actually dislike Hearts. You have no choice but to believe 2H is the correct bid. After all you are not sure what hand he has - he may have a massive hand wanting to bid some more after you accept the transfer, or he may have a Yarborough with only a string of Hearts and you definitely want to play in 2H. Your partner is the Captain and you better respect his decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for why you would have a void in Hearts after opening 1NT, you will explain this to your partner. But even holding a void you should still accept this transfer: better play in 2H than some four-level nonsense doubled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12088" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T12:45:26.723" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T12:45:26.723" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29720" CreationDate="2016-08-03T05:32:37.610" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe it is grape escape. i can only remember that and mouse trap. both games are similar in design.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17912" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T05:32:37.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31958" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T05:40:06.900" Score="4" ViewCount="439" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing Standard American, If my partner opens 1 of a Major and I (as responder) have 5 cards in the same Major and 4/5 POINTS, what do I respond, 4 of the Major or something else ? Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-03-22T18:59:26.287" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T22:02:56.763" Title="BRIDGE - What to do with 5 or more trumps in my partners (opening) major?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31960" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31958" CreationDate="2016-08-03T08:39:53.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This highly depends on the shape of the rest of your hand. Note that my answer (and my experience) doesn't come from the Standard American system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you know you have a fit with your partner, you can add points for distribution. As a rule of thumb:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One additional point for each trump over the eighth&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three points for a renonce/void&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Two points for a singelton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One point for a doubleton&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, partner opened Spades (as a 5-card) and you hold&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Kxxxx&#xA;Qxxx&#xA;&#xA;xxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hand shows 5 HCP, and 2 additional points for the trumps, and 3 points for the lack of diamonds for a total of 10. Bidding 3 Spades as a game invite is a serious option in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a hand like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Kxxxx&#xA;Jx&#xA;xxx&#xA;xxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;has only 4 HCP, 2 extra trumps, but really no redeeming value in distribution. Your doubleton is worth only 1 additional point, but it also already holds a point in Hearts, so you can't count it for distribution as well. This hand shows about 6 points total, a limit raise to 2 Spades is the best call in this case.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2017-10-31T14:22:05.550" LastActivityDate="2017-10-31T14:22:05.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31961" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31962" CreationDate="2016-08-03T16:45:03.177" Score="2" ViewCount="667" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://upload.snakesandlattes.com/rules/q/Quoridor.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules of Quoridor&lt;/a&gt; state that if a player has run out of walls, the player must move his or her pawn. However, is it a valid move for a player to choose not to place a wall (and therefore move), then choose to maintain the current position of the pawn? In other words, is remaining in place considered a valid move? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13576" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T18:12:43.537" Title="Can a player choose not to move in Quoridor?" Tags="|quoridor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31961" CreationDate="2016-08-03T17:03:15.257" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you must act on your turn.&lt;/strong&gt; From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player in turn chooses to move his pawn or to put up one of his fences. When he has run out of fences, the player must move his pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second sentence there, which you reference in your question, is merely a clarification on the first: if you can't place a fence then you must move &lt;em&gt;because&lt;/em&gt; you must always either move or place a fence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition of &quot;moving&quot; your pawn is given in the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;Pawn moves&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The pawns are moved one square at a time...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...in particular, not zero squares at a time. This is also what is reflected in the plain English meaning of &quot;move a pawn&quot; (as opposed to &quot;make a move in a game&quot;, which is a more abstract meaning of the word &quot;move&quot; that might include passing, i.e. doing nothing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the requirement to make a (non-empty) move every turn is a common feature to most if not all abstract strategy games. Chess even invented a name for the situation where any move you make will be bad for you: &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zugzwang&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;zugzwang&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-08-03T18:12:43.537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-03T18:12:43.537" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31963" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-03T18:24:07.050" Score="5" ViewCount="1937" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a follow up to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31961/can-a-player-choose-not-to-move-in-quoridor&quot;&gt;my question earlier&lt;/a&gt;, can a player be forced to skip a turn when playing a four player game of Quoridor? &lt;a href=&quot;http://upload.snakesandlattes.com/rules/q/Quoridor.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; state that a pawn cannot jump over more than one pawn when moving, but this brings up an potential board state in which a player has no valid moves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HkVWJ.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HkVWJ.png&quot; alt=&quot;Demonstration of questionable game state&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose the turn order is Green, Red, Blue, then Yellow. Green started on the west edge, Red started on the north edge, Blue started on the east edge, and Yellow started at the south edge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is Blue's turn, and Yellow has already used all of its walls. Blue then traps all four pawns in the tight corridor by placing its final wall horizontally immediately south of it (noted here by the faded wall below Yellow and Blue). It is now Yellow's turn, but Yellow has no walls, nor does it seem that it has any valid moves. Furthermore, if Green and Red place walls on their next turns, Blue and Yellow are potentially trapped again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the proper way to handle this circumstance?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13576" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2023-08-30T18:04:40.577" Title="In a four person game of Quoridor, can a player be forced to pass a turn?" Tags="|quoridor|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31964" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31958" CreationDate="2016-08-03T22:07:38.840" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Standard American, the normal bid is to raise to two of the major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are a bit &quot;light&quot; in points for this raise, but you also have two extra trumps (over three) to compensate, so you can think of your hand as a bit &quot;better&quot; than 6-7 points. More, if the &quot;two extra trumps&quot; means that you have a singleton or void elsewhere in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is under some alternate bidding systems, like the one proposed by Larry Cohen and Marty Bergen of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3660/what-is-larry-cohens-the-law-of-total-tricks-in-bridge&quot;&gt;&quot;the Law of Total Tricks&lt;/a&gt;, that you should go directly to four of the major with your known ten card major fit. The reasons they give are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) If you and your partner have 17 points and ten trumps between you, you should make &lt;em&gt;nine&lt;/em&gt; tricks (down one). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If partner has &quot;extras&quot; (16-17 or more), you should make your contract with about 20 points and ten trumps in total.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If you and partner have 10 in one major, the opponents are likely to have 10 in the other major, and one (or both) partnerships will probably have the 20 points and ten trumps needed to make four of a major. And if your side has less than 20, your sacrifice in 1) may &quot;head off&quot; an opposing game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2019-03-23T22:02:56.763" LastActivityDate="2019-03-23T22:02:56.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="31965" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31966" CreationDate="2016-08-04T09:36:39.417" Score="0" ViewCount="218" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lets say my opponent have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bZada%2c%20Hedron%20Grinder%5d&quot;&gt;Zada, Hedron Grinder&lt;/a&gt; in play. Then proceeds to use instant spell that target Zada to trigger its effect. Then i play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStasis%20Snare%5d&quot;&gt;Stasis Snare&lt;/a&gt; in response to his instant spell. Does Zada, Hedron Grinder still resolves even if my Stasis Snare resolves first by exiling Zada? If its effect still resolves, how do you prevent Zada from using its ability if i have the instant removal (stasis snare, lightning axe, grasp of darkness etc...) in my hand that can be played in response ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17948" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T10:16:43.720" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T10:21:43.350" Title="MTG question about stack/effect resolving" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-04T12:44:34.830" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31965" CreationDate="2016-08-04T10:21:43.350" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts The Instant targetting Zada. The Instant goes to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zada's ability triggers and goes to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Stasis Snare. Stasis Snare goes to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;(I assume at this point you're both passing priorities until the whole stack resolves)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stasis Snare resolves and enters the battlefield. It's ability triggers and goes to the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stasis Snare's ability resolves and exiles Zada.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Zada's ability resolves and creates copies of The Instant on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The copies of The Instant resolve, one by one.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The (original) Instant looks around to see if it's targets are still legal. They're not as Zada is not on the battlefield. The (original) Instant is countered by the game rules (and is put into the graveyard without resolving, as usual with countered spells).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for the second question:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Once Zada's on the battlefield, removal won't allow you to counter it's ability.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Some other effects might, like &quot;counter all spells&quot; which will also counter the created copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T10:21:43.350" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31967" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31958" CreationDate="2016-08-04T12:56:21.710" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on a few things, but basically you have a choice between a simple raise to 2M or a jump to 4M. First, did partner open in first seat, or later? If partner opened in first seat, your LHO has not had a chance to enter the auction yet and opponents are more likely to have a game. This makes the jump to 4 of the major more attractive. If LHO has already passed, opponents are unlikely to have a game, so the preemptive value of 4M is less useful and partner may have some extras. When partner has moderate extras, you're propelling your side to a shaky contract at best while the opponents are unlikely to find a plus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, what is the shape of your hand? If it's 5332, 4M is less attractive. If it's 5431 or shapelier, 4M is more attractive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you decide to bid 2M only, your plan is to bid 3M over opponent's part-score interference and then go away, and not to accept partner's game tries. If you bid 4M, you've essentially shown your hand and you're done in the auction unless partner makes some forcing bid (essentially a cue bid or blackwood).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T12:56:21.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31968" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T14:18:58.653" Score="4" ViewCount="264" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a board game that was one of my mother's favorites growing up. This would have been in the early to mid 70's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was a game for four people, each with a 4x4 (with one empty) sliding tile setup with letters. A paper wheel in the middle of the board could be turned and would reveal four words for each player, and the players would race to spell those words with their sliding tiles.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She thought the name of this game was Lingo Bingo, but I can't seem to find even a mention of a board game with that name anywhere. Does it sound familiar to anyone? Is there a place where I can buy it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17950" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-05T05:39:31.900" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T06:06:07.157" Title="Sliding Tile Board Game--Lingo Bingo?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31969" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31968" CreationDate="2016-08-04T15:48:51.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been able to find a &lt;em&gt;partial&lt;/em&gt; match for what you're describing. It isn't your exact game, but I'm posting it hoping it'll help someone &lt;em&gt;find&lt;/em&gt; that game &amp;mdash; it sounds like a possible ancestor or derivative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The former &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamepublisher/153/ideal&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Ideal Toy Company&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; produced &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/9592/logus-sr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Logus Sr.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/23971/logus-jr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Logus Jr.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; in 1971. This is a 2-player game that gives the players a &lt;strong&gt;4&amp;times;5&lt;/strong&gt; grid of letters, two spaces missing, making for 18 letter tiles. You're assigned challenges of various formats by cards. There's no wheel and there's no 4-player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/40rr1.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/40rr1m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Logus Sr, two 4x5 tile cases with their cards in a box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJtCR.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/zJtCRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;logus jr, same again, in the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;sup&gt;First: Logus Sr. Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/image/39916/logus-sr&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bagherra on Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;. // Second: Logus Jr. Image credit: &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00EB9349U&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Amazon&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Logus found thanks to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gtoal.com/wordgames/games.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Graham Toal, Steffan O'Sullivan, and the wordgame-programmers mailing list&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-04T15:54:30.467" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T15:54:30.467" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31971" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-04T18:23:55.190" Score="1" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you hold an AQ or KJ of a suit, with a low card being led up to it, you have a &quot;tenace,&quot; and you hope that the missing card is &quot;onside&quot; with the right hand opponent (RHO).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you hold, say an AJ or a KT or a Q9 (and the missing cards are not in your partner's hand), is that also called a tenace, or is there a special name for this kind of a holding?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More to the point, if there are two missing cards, A and B, is it usually good technique to refrain from covering the first one, and only cover the second one?&#xA;For instance if you have KTx, should you duck when RHO plays that J, and wait till he plays the Q, then you cover with the K, A captures, and your T is now high?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T03:56:34.053" Title="Is there a special name for the following kind of &quot;tenace&quot; and are there &quot;special&quot; kinds of tactics regarding it?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31971" CreationDate="2016-08-04T22:33:14.130" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most similar case I've seen named is when you're holding the AJT - it is likely each opponent is holding one of the missing KQ, so you can play two finesses and expect one to fail and the other to succeed. This is called &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dummies.com/games/card-games/bridge/how-to-finesse-against-split-honors-in-bridge/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;finessing against split honors&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-04T22:33:14.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31974" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31971" CreationDate="2016-08-05T03:56:34.053" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't think there is a special name for this holding.  I think they are still tenaces.  (After all, at least one etymology for &quot;tenace&quot; is &quot;ten-ace&quot;!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you look at the suit in isolation, it doesn't matter whether you lose the first trick or the second trick; either way, if you lead twice towards AJx, you can get 2 tricks if KQ are both onside.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, in an actual hand, there are going to be many timing issues associated with when you would prefer to lose a trick.  There may be endplay or squeeze possibilities that make it more beneficial to lose a trick early or late.  If you lose a trick very early, you may have the advantage that defender doesn't have enough information to figure out the best return.  There may be possibilities for Morton's Fork coups or discarding a loser anyway that only work taking the first trick or losing the first trick.  You might have a vulnerable entry in one hand that you don't want knocked out, or a different tenace that you want led to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A lot of times, the question boils down to which defender you want on lead more assuming the honors are split, given that you have a possibility of discarding the second loser at a later point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T03:56:34.053" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31976" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7825" CreationDate="2016-08-05T21:29:14.033" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I highly suggest a cardboard box. I got a 1600 size box for about $10. &#xA;On the topic of lands and tokens, I keep 60 of each basic land (so 300 in total) with the cube at all times sleeved. my cube is from Khans/fate/dragons so tokens aren't really an issue, however I keep 10 of each token sleeved in a different color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't recommend using the cub3 from ultra pro. Even though it can handily hold every card and land in my cube, I find it too large to travel with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this helps.&#xA;JLD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17958" LastActivityDate="2016-08-05T21:29:14.033" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31979" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32285" CreationDate="2016-08-06T04:20:18.037" Score="3" ViewCount="4486" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players are dealt supply cards in the game to help get rid of &quot;calamities&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state this about Supply Cards:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7:&lt;/strong&gt; Players should look at their own Supply Cards, then place them face down on the table. Players may look at their own Supply Cards at any time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not specify whether or not players may tell other players what they have. I could see where some player may ask the table if someone has for example, a &lt;code&gt;Medicine&lt;/code&gt;, and another player may have it but choose to &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; to tell you. Is the &quot;card's not displayed to other players&quot; rule an effort to stop players from coercing other players into playing specific cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or does this rule hint that players may not talk about what Supply Cards they have at all?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13632" LastEditorUserId="13632" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T23:26:11.123" LastActivityDate="2016-12-27T01:39:12.533" Title="The Oregon Trail Card Game: can I talk about my supply cards?" Tags="|the-oregon-trail-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31980" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-06T04:35:18.117" Score="4" ViewCount="1160" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's a problem having to do with the proper resolution of the stack. My friend played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDecimator%20of%20the%20Provinces%5d&quot;&gt;Decimator of the Provinces&lt;/a&gt; for its emerge cost by sacrificing his Hooded Hydra. In response I played &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDisperse%5d&quot;&gt;Disperse&lt;/a&gt; targeting his &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHooded%20Hydra%5d&quot;&gt;Hooded Hydra&lt;/a&gt;. This way he wouldn't have enough mana to play his Decimator of the Provinces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that how it would resolve? And if so does the Decimator of Provinces return to his hand or go to his graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17962" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T18:34:19.367" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T21:07:56.483" Title="Can I remove a creature someone's sacrificing for an Emerge cost?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31981" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31980" CreationDate="2016-08-06T05:02:31.277" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you can't prevent him from saccing his Hooded Hydra.  What happens is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friend declares he's going to cast Decimater&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friend determines the cost (in this case, Emerge)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Friend pays the cost, including sacrificing Hooded Hydra&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decimater goes on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Decimater's cast trigger goes on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players now get priority, starting with your friend. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T05:02:31.277" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31982" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31983" CreationDate="2016-08-06T08:19:38.830" Score="4" ViewCount="1245" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player A and Player B both have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Promised%20End%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Promised End&lt;/a&gt; and Player A casts his Emrakul and on Player B's turn, that he now controls, casts Player B's Emrakul. Does Player B get to control Player A's turn or not as the card states &quot;When you cast Emrakul, you gain control of target opponent during that player's next turn&quot;. Who is you in this case? And what would the sequence of the following turns be?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T10:46:39.653" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T11:01:38.360" Title="Sequence of turns after two Emrakul, the Promised End" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31983" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31982" CreationDate="2016-08-06T11:01:38.360" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Player B will control Player A's turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The sequence is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn 1 (A): A casts Emrakul, the Promised End.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn 2 (B): A controls B and casts B's Emrakul, the Promised End&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn 3 (B extra): B can do whatever he wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn 4 (A): B controls A's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn 5 (A extra): A can do whatever he wants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Turn 6 (B): The game progresses as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A is not Player B. Player A and B are always opponents of each other, no matter who controls whose turn. If A makes the decision for B to cast Emrakul, the Promised End, it's as if B had cast it himself for the purposes of &amp;quot;you&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;your opponent&amp;quot; in the card text of cards. Controlling another player only means that you make the game decisions for that player and use his or her resources:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;712.3. Only control of the player changes. All objects are controlled by their normal controllers. A player who’s being controlled during his or her turn is still the active player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;712.5. While controlling another player, a player makes all choices and decisions the controlled player is allowed to make or is told to make by the rules or by any objects. This includes choices and decisions about what to play, and choices and decisions called for by spells and abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T11:01:38.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31984" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32521" CreationDate="2016-08-06T13:51:13.860" Score="0" ViewCount="223" Body="&lt;p&gt;I noticed that some cards such as &lt;code&gt;Cut the Strings&lt;/code&gt; state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Deal 2 damage to a unit you control&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While other cards such as &lt;code&gt;Blood Transfer&lt;/code&gt; say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Deal 2 damage to a target unit you control.&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The FAQ says the term target is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;: A term that is used to identify that the effect&#xA;  of a spell, ability or dice power is directly affecting&#xA;  something (including, but not limited to, an alteration&#xA;  spell, a unit, a player, or a Phoenixborn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But I'm still sure why the game uses the term &lt;code&gt;target&lt;/code&gt; in some instances but not others. &lt;strong&gt;Is there a difference between a &quot;target unit&quot; and a &quot;unit&quot;?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T15:04:21.943" Title="Difference between unit and target unit?" Tags="|ashes|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12567" CreationDate="2016-08-06T15:08:39.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the question refers to game flow, the short answer is yes. {OP MainQ}&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The long answer is that calling a kan (closed or not) does three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, It will break time-sensitive bonuses: any calls to meld&lt;sup&gt;warning&lt;/sup&gt; tiles into a group is registered as incrementing the turn count. It is properly understood that when open calls occur, this is the case. However, because of how game records are written manually in Japan (at least before the advent of computers), this definition extends to closed calls of quads (ankan 暗槓) as well: the call is what leads to an interruption, not just the act of melding for open stuff or &quot;assembling&quot; a closed group. If East can call kan on the first turn, the &lt;strong&gt;turn counter will immediately increment&lt;/strong&gt; to turn 2, and the following become no longer possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East can &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; longer call its &lt;em&gt;starter yakuman&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;em&gt;tenhou&lt;/em&gt; 天和). {OP Sub1, OPSub2 implied}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;East can &lt;strong&gt;no&lt;/strong&gt; longer call &lt;em&gt;double riichi&lt;/em&gt; for a 2-han yaku (1 more than the standard 1-han yaku for riichi) {OP Sub3, OP Sub2 still implied}&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South/West/North can no longer call for the rarely-accepted-yet-also-not-stable-valued pre-start yaku &lt;em&gt;renhou&lt;/em&gt; (人和) that in Japanese mahjong refers to winning before even drawing. Assuming that you may be in a placce that accepts this, the bonus could be either a flat score of mangan, baiman, or yakuman... or a standard yaku that could be worth 4 or 5 han.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South/West/North can no longer call their &lt;em&gt;starter yakuman&lt;/em&gt; (&lt;em&gt;chiihou&lt;/em&gt; 地和).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;South/West/North can no longer call double riichi.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The above are all shutdown from the moment a closed kan occurs. If East does nothing, but West decides to make a closed kan, then naturally everything above that can be restricted applies from that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, a closed kan interrupts the one-shot bonus yaku (&lt;em&gt;ippatsu&lt;/em&gt; 一発, 1-han bonus yaku) later in the game when the kan follows a riichi call that just happened prior, just like any of the open calls. Riichi is a declaration and not a call, thus two/three consecutive riichi calls can both earn ippatsu. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Third, it does alter the game flow, since the player calling takes a tile from the replacement stacks in the dead wall, and the tile at the end of the live wall &lt;strong&gt;dies&lt;/strong&gt;. Japanese mahjong stops the game with 14 tiles remaining in the dead wall, not simply where the backbreak occured at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR: Closed kan calls break ippatsu (and miracle starts), but are also considered for other purposes to be &quot;not melds&quot; (from Japanese wikipedia: 副露に含まれない) and &quot;not opening the hand&quot;. Confusion is normal, but this is how things work in riichi mahjong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Extra disclaimer: Non-japanese variants of mahjong have different rules, different things (HK 地和　is winning off first East discard, nothing special for S/W/N players), and none of them have double riichi, except probably local rules established in the Manchuria area of Northern China.) so this post is only an authority in its sphere of influence. Even the language surrounding what a turn is varies by language, so I'm not even going to start on that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17965" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T15:08:39.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31986" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11877" CreationDate="2016-08-06T16:25:07.810" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're eyeballing it, then you go with counting three things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the standard count from 8. (worst case scenario: 147m147p147s1234z or 13-sided kokushi)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the terminal count from 13. (worst case scenario: all simples is 13-shanten)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the seven pairs count from 6. (worst case scenario: anything without a pair)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Standard count from 8 is to identify up to 5 groupings. Groups of 3 (subtracting 2) are always better than 2 groups of 2 (subtracting 1 each), as there is always an extra tile to pick up a spare from overlapping groups. If #groupings &gt;= 5, then verify if one of the groups is a pair. Otherwise, you only have 4 &quot;legitimate&quot; groups. Protogroups of 2 are called taatsu (t), pairs are counted separately (p). Generally, shanten = 8 - 2*g - t - p. My code extracts pairs before protogroups when counting. With no complete groups, the best you can achieve with the standard count is 3-shanten.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Terminal count is easy. How many terminals, and how many different terminals. For live play, just look for a pair and ignore counting them all. shanten = 13 - diffTerminals() - if(numTerminals() &gt; diffTerminals;1;0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pair count is also easy. shanten = 6 - p. Whichever of the 3 is smallest is your shanten count. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what the code does is that it can take a hand with size 1,2,4,5,7,8,10,11,13 or 14 and just break it down. When feeding less than 13 tiles, g can be pre-loaded with the number of melds formed. AFAIK, it won't count for self-walled protogroups if you feed it 45p55777z with 2 melds, and they happen to be two kans of 3333p and 6666p, it won't register that the hand is 1-shanten instead of tenpai... and same with 4578p if the 3 melds are 3333p6666p9999p, then the hand is 2-shanten, not 1 or 0. This is the edgiest of edge cases though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What it does do though, is if it ends up tenpai, it will test adding every tile to get a complete hand (-1). However, it cannot add a tile already there. So even if one of the intermediate checks says it's fine, when a full hand is present, it will not validate. A hand with 4 of the same and 3 unrelated groups is by definition, not tenpai, as the only way it could &quot;complete&quot; is with a 5th copy of the same tile, which is not possible. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what elements to take, it cycles through everything. Could a group like 34555p be better as 345 + 55 or 34 + 555, especially if you need a pair amoing the non-grouped items? Maybe, but it will still cycle through all possibilities. The line detecting three of a kind will just shift eveerything forward by two tiles as there's no point in detecting if in tiles ABCDEFGHIJKLM: DGH, EGH and FGH make runs if you know DEF are the same. Just do DEF at that point, jump, check FGH and move on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I run this formula on cycles of random tile distributions, I get in the area of 220 tenhou hands per 100M, which is in line with Tenhou's monthly running stat pages.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;  // INPUT: hand is a sorted array of tile values from 0-135 without repeating&#xA;  // INPUT: g is the number of groups. The function works recursively by extracting a group and calling itself with stc(smallerHand, g+1)&#xA;function stc(hand, g) {&#xA;  // INIT&#xA;  var retVal = 8; var t = 0; var p = 0;&#xA;  // KOKUSHI&#xA;  if (hand.length &amp;gt;= 13) retVal = Math.min(retVal, 13 - diffTerminals(hand) - Math.max(Math.min(terminalPairs(hand), 1),0));&#xA;  // SUBHAND RECURSION: Sorted hands have relevant tiles spaced 4 apart or less. Order: O{4*4*(n-5)} instead of O{(n^3 / 6}&#xA;  if (hand.length &amp;gt; 3) {&#xA;      for (i=0; i&amp;lt;hand.length-2; i++) {&#xA;      for (j=i+1; j&amp;lt;hand.length-1 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; (j-i&amp;lt;5); j++) {&#xA;      for (k=j+1; k&amp;lt;hand.length &amp;amp;&amp;amp; (k-j&amp;lt;5); k++) {&#xA;          // Max subhands:: 14 tiles: 6635520; 13 tiles: 1351680.&#xA;          if (isGroup(hand[i], hand[j], hand[k])) {&#xA;              var subHand = [];&#xA;              for (var m in hand) {subHand[m] = hand[m];}&#xA;              subHand.splice(k,1); subHand.splice(j,1); subHand.splice(i,1);&#xA;              retVal = Math.min(retVal, this.stc(subHand, g+1));&#xA;          }&#xA;          if (isPair(hand[i],hand[j]) &amp;amp;&amp;amp; isPair(hand[i],hand[k])) i++; j=999; k=999;&#xA;      }}}&#xA;  }&#xA;  // PROTOGROUP COUNT&#xA;  if (hand.length &amp;gt; 1) {&#xA;      // Priority: AB pair, AC pair, AB taatsu&#xA;      for (i = 0; i&amp;lt;hand.length-1; i++) {&#xA;          if(isPair(hand[i], hand[i+1])) {p++;i++;}&#xA;          else if(i&amp;lt;hand.length-2 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; isPair(hand[i], hand[i+2])) {p++;i=i+2;}&#xA;          else if(isTaatsu(hand[i], hand[i+1])) {t++;i++;}&#xA;      }&#xA;  }&#xA;  // 5 to 7 pairs, immeditate return on 7&#xA;  if (p==7) return -1; if (p&amp;gt;4&amp;amp;&amp;amp;hand.length&amp;gt;=13) retVal = Math.min(retVal, 6-p); &#xA;  // Standard count: 8 - 2*g - max(4-g,p+t) - min(1,max(0,p+t-(4-g)))  &#xA;  if(p+t&amp;gt;Math.floor(hand.length/3)) {&#xA;      if (p&amp;gt;0) retVal = Math.min(retVal, 8 - 2*g - Math.floor(hand.length/3) - 1);  &#xA;      else retVal = Math.min(retVal, 8 - 2*g - Math.floor(hand.length/3) - 0);&#xA;  } else retVal = Math.min(retVal, 8 - 2*g - p - t, 6 - p);&#xA;  // Tenpai check for shanten == 0.&#xA;  if(retVal==0 &amp;amp;&amp;amp; hand.length==13) {&#xA;      for(var i=0;i&amp;lt;136;i++){&#xA;        var checkHand = [];&#xA;        var checkRes = 0;&#xA;        for (var m in hand) {checkHand[m] = hand[m];}&#xA;        checkHand.push(i);&#xA;        for (var n = 0; n&amp;lt;13;n++) {&#xA;            if (checkHand[n] == i) {n=999;}&#xA;            if (n == 12) {&#xA;              checkHand = checkHand.sort(doCompare);&#xA;              checkRes = stc(checkHand,0);&#xA;            }&#xA;        }&#xA;        retVal = Math.min(retVal, checkRes + 1); // checkRes would be -1 if legit tenpai, 0 if not. **EDIT2016: I think the +1 should be out of the parentheses**&#xA;      }&#xA;  } &#xA;  return retVal;&#xA;}&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17965" LastEditorUserId="17965" LastEditDate="2016-08-06T16:31:19.310" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T16:31:19.310" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31987" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31988" CreationDate="2016-08-06T17:08:05.143" Score="0" ViewCount="1998" Body="&lt;p&gt;If multiple creatures that have an ability that gets triggered when the creature deals damage to an opponent, in what order should those abilities be resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I attack with an &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=190566&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Hypnotic Specter&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=183418&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Guul Draz Specter&lt;/a&gt; and both are not blocked, should my opponent discard a card at random and then choose and discard one, or viceversa?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my opponent has 3 cards in hand, 2 of which are bad and one is good, if he discards randomly first, he has a probability of 1/3 to discard the good card, and if he chooses first he has a probability of 1/2 to discard the good card, so I think that in this case the order does matter...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe I'm just overthinking :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11520" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T17:34:28.170" Title="Order of resolution of creatures abilities triggered by combat damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-07T05:45:27.190" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31987" CreationDate="2016-08-06T17:34:28.170" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Every player puts the abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order that player chooses, starting with the player whose turn it is.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you control both triggers from your creatures, you may put them on the stack in any order. The ability you put on last will resolve first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;603.3b If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T17:34:28.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31990" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7156" CreationDate="2016-08-06T21:51:19.423" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The apocryphal historic reason was that before modern riichi mahjong, there were many things that were not part of the game. The base exponent (bazoro) was not included, and points were rounded to tens, not hundreds. There's a style of play that can be called &quot;22-style&quot; (aru-shii-aru) in which the minimum value of a winning hand was 22 points. However, as we know, if a hand has at least one run exposed, a valueless pair, no sets and finishes the last run with an open-ended wait, the hand would score no points aside from the base score (fuutei). So it was decided that an &quot;open pinfu&quot; hand would score 2 points in order to not have valueless hands. There was some doubling, but I am not an authority on what they were, and how different they were from modern yaku, both in scoring and in presence/absence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Scott Miller did do some research down this field and most likely contacted people from the 101 Competitive League (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.101fed.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.101fed.com/&lt;/a&gt;). They still play with rules faithfully matching how mahjong was most likely played in Japan in the 1930s and 1940s. However, during and following WW2, the game evolved considerably. As modern riichi mahjong became what it was, the old style got left behind. The 101CL now has a grand total of 18 regular members in 2016 (from a peak of 45 or so in the 1990s), showcasing exactly how unpopular the old rules were to become over time (for fair comparison: JPML has around 650 and Saikouisen NPM has about 400, and there are other pro organizations).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because of this transition, attempting to catalogue what japanese mahjong was in the sixties was done extremely poorly in a 1964 book whose author I do not care for (E.N. Whitney?), because of the overlapping explanation of old style, modern style, as well as some rules that were still in flux somewhere between. Her paragraphs on furiten are comically imprecise precisely due to this transition. My recommendation to NJ players is to ignore any written reference prior to 1980, as it does no one any good to dwell on the specifics of ancient practices, and not to revive apocryphal yaku from that era.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17965" LastActivityDate="2016-08-06T21:51:19.423" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31963" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:16:45.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Positioning of the fences&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•  The fences must be placed between 2 sets of 2 squares&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;•  The fences can be used to facilitate the player’s progress or to impede that of the opponent, however, an access to the goal line must always be left open.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So blue can't place a fence here 'cause it will block the path to the goal line&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17975" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T00:59:46.710" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31994" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:39:47.240" Score="4" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLeonin%20Shikari%5d&quot;&gt;Leonin Shikari&lt;/a&gt; on the board and want to equip a creature. Can I activate the equip ability a second time and put it on the stack? Like when giving a creature hexproof with an equipment, and an opponent casts a spell to destroy the creature before it gets hexproof, can I activate the ability a second time to have it on the stack above their spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17976" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T11:49:40.313" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T11:49:40.313" Title="Equip from same Equipment, two times on stack (Leonin Shikari)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31993" CreationDate="2016-08-08T08:54:24.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can activate the Equip ability any time during your Main Phase, when you have priority and the stack is empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.6a.&lt;/strong&gt; Equip is an activated ability of Equipment cards. &quot;Equip [cost]&quot; means &quot;[Cost]: Attach this permanent to target creature you control. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Leonin Shikari on the board, aren't limited to activate it during your turn when the stack is empty (so not just &quot;when you could cast a sorcery&quot;). This means you're allowed to activate the ability in response to a player's attempt to remove one of your creature with a targetted spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because the stack resolves last-in-first-out, your Equipment will be attached to the creature of your choice in time to give it Hexproof before the removal spell resolves. That spell will be countered by the game rules (&quot;fizzle&quot;) for not having a legal target anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2b.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability specifies targets, it checks whether the targets are still legal. (...) The spell or ability is countered if all its targets, for every instance of the word &quot;target,&quot; are now illegal. (...) Illegal targets, if any, won't be affected by parts of a resolving spell's effect for which they’re illegal. Other parts of the effect for which those targets are not illegal may still affect them. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T08:54:24.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31996" CreationDate="2016-08-08T09:37:45.667" Score="12" ViewCount="42728" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I hit a 4/4 indestructible creature with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; (3 damage) and give it -1/-1 with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTragic%20Slip%5d&quot;&gt;Tragic Slip&lt;/a&gt; to kill it? (Does it matter which way around I cast those?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I read &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Indestructible&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;this description&lt;/a&gt; here and it says, damage is removed in cleanup step, so it should be on the creature still after both spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.12. Indestructible&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  702.12a Indestructible is a static ability.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  702.12b A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (see rule 704.5g).&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  702.12c Multiple instances of indestructible on the same permanent are redundant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17976" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-10-15T10:49:12.890" LastActivityDate="2018-10-15T10:49:12.890" Title="Can I kill an indestructible creature with -X/-X and sufficient damage marked on it?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31995" CreationDate="2016-08-08T10:06:12.087" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Spell order doesn't matter; either way you cast the spells, you wind up with: a 3/3 indestructible creature with 3 damage marked on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You've asked if you can hit it with both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTragic%20Slip%5d&quot;&gt;Tragic Slip&lt;/a&gt;... but I presume you also mean to ask &amp;quot;will that kill it?&amp;quot; and the answer is &lt;em&gt;no,&lt;/em&gt; the indestructible creature will survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See the part of your quote that says: &amp;quot;such permanents aren't destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage.&amp;quot; By that, they are talking about the fact it's a creature with 3 toughness and 3 damage marked on it (until the turn ends) — that's lethal damage. And lethal damage doesn't kill indestructible creatures, so it will be fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Please note that damage never reduces toughness. Some of the MTG video games have treated it like it does, which is unfortunate and incorrect — toughness isn't like Health. Instead, damage simply sits on the creature, not changing the Toughness, but we measure it against their Toughness to see if they should normally die. Toughness is more like a Max Health attribute if anything.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It could however be killed by tragic slip's -13/-13 effect (use the lightning bolt to kill something else for this), or by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrasp%20of%20Darkness%5d&quot;&gt;Grasp of Darkness&lt;/a&gt;, either of which will reduce its toughness to 0 or less, which removes even indestructible creatures. This is because lethal damage &amp;quot;destroys&amp;quot; a creature, but toughness 0 or less merely puts that creature into its owner's graveyard (without counting as &amp;quot;destroys&amp;quot;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;State-based actions&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;704.5f If a creature has toughness 0 or less, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard. Regeneration can’t replace this event.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;704.5g If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. Regeneration can replace this event.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your red/black options also include exiling the indestructible creature, such as with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGild%5d&quot;&gt;Gild&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOblivion%20Strike%5d&quot;&gt;Oblivion Strike&lt;/a&gt;, or using special workaround cards which nullify its abilities like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBurn%20from%20Within%5d&quot;&gt;Burn from Within&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-03-02T10:16:03.640" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24005" CreationDate="2016-08-08T10:08:32.073" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;For the sake of completeness: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now Warhammer Fantasy is rebranded to Warhammer Age of Sigmar, that allows you to play with &quot;whatever the heck you want&quot; in any game. But even if you want to play rules hardcorelly, now they are only 4 factions, Order, Chaos, Destruction and Death. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the armies you named in your question are part of &quot;Order&quot; so, by the new rules, they are completely allowed to be used together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13763" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T10:08:32.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="31999" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:24:56.570" Score="8" ViewCount="1755" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the round time expires in a sanctioned event, the current turn plus 5 additional turns are completed before a game still in progress is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=414295&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Promised End&lt;/a&gt; has the text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you cast Emrakul, you gain control of target opponent during that player's next turn. After that turn, that player takes an extra turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Emrakul, the Promised End was cast in the additional turns, how would the controlled turn and extra turn be counted?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example for clarity: Player A casts Emrakul, the Promised End targeting Player B on turn 1 in additional turns. Is turn 2 Player B being controlled and turn 3 Player B's extra turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13272" LastEditorUserId="12869" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T14:42:42.820" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:34:45.703" Title="Additional Turns and Emrakul, the Promised End" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="31999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31998" CreationDate="2016-08-08T13:42:04.873" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter who controls the turns or if there are extra turns, five additional turns are taken in total (assuming nobody wins before that).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the Andy casts Emrakul on the first extra turn targeting Nathan the turns will end up being like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Andy (casts Emrakul)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan (controlled by Andy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan (controlled by himself)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Andy&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Nathan&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament+Policy#4522&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Magic Tournament Policy&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2.5. End-of-Match Procedure&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the match time limit is reached before a winner is determined, the player whose turn it is finishes his or her turn and five additional turns are played in total. This usually means that one player takes three turns and the other two, but a player taking extra turns may affect this. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:34:45.703" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32000" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-08T14:24:53.257" Score="0" ViewCount="664" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have say,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: AKQ1098&#xA;H: A32&#xA;D: KQJ10&#xA;C: -&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With a hand like this, could I open 2 clubs?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Could the opponents call the Tournament Director on me?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What else could I bid to ensure my partner wouldn't pass on me...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-01T18:42:23.197" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T16:52:20.657" Title="Bridge - 2 club opening (playing standard american) with shape and not HCP?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32001" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32000" CreationDate="2016-08-08T15:07:55.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a bit of a tough hand. I think that opening 2C is fine. You're not grossly distorting the strength of the hand (as you would be with e.g. AKQJxxxxx xx xx -void-). You'll rebid 2S; if partner supports then you can start cue-bidding and if not you can bid diamonds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you swapped your clubs and spades, you might open 1C, planning to reverse into diamonds, as 1C is unlikely to get passed out when you hold only 19 HCP.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T15:07:55.020" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32015" CreationDate="2016-08-08T17:39:25.403" Score="5" ViewCount="840" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wondering why the resources on the City boards have colored backgrounds? It is quite confusing when you play cards such as Vineyard, Bazaar or Chamber of Commerce since the starting resources do not count in those cases. Is there any reason for it besides it can be considered more aesthetic this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17980" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-08T17:51:39.630" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T08:33:26.153" Title="7 Wonders: Why do resources on the board have colored background?" Tags="|7-wonders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32004" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32037" CreationDate="2016-08-08T19:23:30.897" Score="2" ViewCount="508" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've heard I should start with Adventure B, but it's a really hard adventure! Is this really true? Or should I start with the seemingly easier Adventure 1?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify: What is the &quot;official&quot; starting adventure in Pathfinder: Wrath of the Righteous? Or is there an official one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17981" LastEditorUserId="17981" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T17:11:53.367" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T17:11:53.367" Title="Which adventure should I start in Pathfinder: Wrath of the Righteous Adventure Card Game?" Tags="|pathfinder-adventure|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2016-08-08T20:52:42.000" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can’t think of a gameplay-related reason, i.e., there is no game function that would make use of the top-left color on the wonder boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the color associated with the effect (brown for raw materials, grey for manufactures goods, yellow for commerce stuff, white for leader stuff) seems to make sense. It can help in various cases, e.g., when scanning the boards of your neighbours, you immediately see the effect’s category and if it’s relevant to your need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don’t think it’s confusing. The effects on cards like Bazar, Vineyard, and Chamber of Commerce show &lt;strong&gt;colored cards&lt;/strong&gt;, not colors. In my experience (after several hundreds of games) new players grasp this quickly: don’t count in the brown/grey wonder effect when you have to count brown/grey cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3532" LastActivityDate="2016-08-08T20:52:42.000" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32006" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T03:34:37.300" Score="2" ViewCount="2500" Body="&lt;p&gt;The revolver text doesn't say that the target needs a Speed roll in order to use the revolver on a monster. If a monster doesn't have a speed trait, how does it defend?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17984" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T23:25:17.223" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T23:25:17.223" Title="Revolver Question" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32006" CreationDate="2016-08-09T04:26:46.940" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot attack a monster who doesn't have speed with the Revolver. The general attack rules state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You can't use a trait to attack an opponent who doesn't have that trait. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T04:26:46.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32014" CreationDate="2016-08-09T05:47:06.947" Score="4" ViewCount="1157" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have two copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiffusion%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Diffusion Sliver&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, does my opponent have to pay four mana, or two mana to target my slivers?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I mean it says, pay two, so when he pays two both cards should be happy, or does this stack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An explanation how and why would be nice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17976" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T08:02:11.083" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T17:16:23.420" Title="Do multiple instances of paying extra mana to target a permanent stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32010" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32018" CreationDate="2016-08-09T06:29:50.027" Score="3" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Question 1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=159253&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Benalish Hero&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=394034&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Lord of the Pit&lt;/a&gt; banded together, and my opponent blocks with 3 10/10's. Can I assign all 30 damage to the hero and have the Lord survive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question 2.1&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with the Lord and my opponent blocks with a 5/5 and 4 1/1's. I choose to first deal 5 damage to the 5/5, then 1 damage to two of the 1/1's. Can my opponent wait until I've selected this damage assignment to play &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=201291&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Heal&lt;/a&gt; and save his 5/5? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question 2.2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he can not save his 5/5 with heal in Question 2, why would I ever choose to assign more than lethal damage to the first blocker during damage assignment?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17986" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:12:07.393" Title="Questions on banding and combat damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32012" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32009" CreationDate="2016-08-09T07:23:00.297" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They have to pay four mana, when he casts the spell both slivers trigger and their ability to counter the spell unless he pays mana goes on the stack, to prevent these ability's from countering his spell they need to pay two mana for each of them making him pay a total of four mana&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T07:23:00.297" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32013" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-09T07:50:17.980" Score="40" ViewCount="9214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently we have had a number of 'explosive' games of Catan and Risk, where the game has become very heated because use of &lt;strong&gt;'prompting'&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;'suggesting'&lt;/strong&gt; of moves to other players. I see this as a valid strategy, however one of my rival players sees it very much the other way and thinks it is unsportsmanlike. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To give a better illustration of the issue here is a scenario for Catan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It is a 4 player game, around half way through&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I am &lt;strong&gt;Player 1&lt;/strong&gt; and am currently not leading the game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Player 2&lt;/strong&gt; is currently in the lead as I see it, and they are a good player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Players 3 and 4&lt;/strong&gt; are in similar positions to me, and look unlikely to win. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage I feel like if the game plays out then &lt;strong&gt;Player 2&lt;/strong&gt; has a high chance of winning, they are unlikely to make any major mistakes and it would take a sequence of bad luck to unseat them from the victory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It comes up to &lt;strong&gt;Player 3&lt;/strong&gt;'s turn, and they have several moves they can make. They initially choose to &lt;strong&gt;attack me&lt;/strong&gt;. At this point I speak up and prompt another move that attacks &lt;strong&gt;Player 2&lt;/strong&gt;, and illustrate that they are currently winning the game, and that they need to be stopped, implying a loose &lt;strong&gt;alliance&lt;/strong&gt;. This play is beneficial to both &lt;strong&gt;me&lt;/strong&gt; and to &lt;strong&gt;Player 3&lt;/strong&gt; by keeping us in the game, but damaging to &lt;strong&gt;Player 2&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage &lt;strong&gt;Player 2&lt;/strong&gt; 'explodes'. I am berated for making such a suggestion, called a bad sport, and are accused of being of weak moral fibre. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately &lt;strong&gt;Player 2&lt;/strong&gt; has been a better &lt;em&gt;political&lt;/em&gt; opponent as well as player, and has the backing of some of the other members of the group, as this is not the first occurrence. They have been building support for their 'anti-prompting' cause for a number of weeks/months. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I back down, and stay quiet, and watch a number of games go by that were largely &lt;em&gt;uninteresting&lt;/em&gt; because of a lack of any &lt;strong&gt;team play&lt;/strong&gt; to slow down the winner. Part of this issue is with the way the game operates, in this case Catan:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can see the progress of each player to within a 1-2 victory points in most cases, as well as how they trending&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game seems to be decided quite early in many cases due to strong starting positions and early moves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has a large chance factor for starting positions and early resource gains&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;By having only one winner it can be very cut-throat and does not explicitly lend itself to cooperation&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The end result of these properties is that I feel many games are decided early, and the remaining 45-30 minutes is spent &lt;em&gt;going through the motions&lt;/em&gt;. Ideally I would not be in this position, as the other players should see the &lt;em&gt;primary&lt;/em&gt; threat and that we should work together toward a common goal of taking out the leader and then one of us may have a chance of the win. Unfortunately this is not often the case, and I'm not allowed to make any mention of this, or I get berated again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately this comes down to trust also, if I suggest poor moves then no one will listen. The issue is that, as a strong player, my suggestions are often strong and insightful too, negating a major play or situation that has gone unnoticed. This is clearly &lt;em&gt;aggravating&lt;/em&gt; for the player I'm doing this against (Player 2), but my only other option is to sit there and &lt;strong&gt;let them win&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you allow prompting in your games? Is it an issue? Do you think it is unsportsmanlike? Should I back down and keep quiet? How should I bring this up as a valid and accepted part of the game if I choose to try an get this included as an allowed behaviour in future games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13655" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T23:58:23.933" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T17:27:35.540" Title="Is prompting players with alternate moves poor etiquette?" Tags="|catan|risk|" AnswerCount="12" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32009" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:11:26.023" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For convenience, I will quote &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiffusion%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Diffusion Sliver&lt;/a&gt;'s ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a Sliver creature you control becomes the target of a spell or ability an opponent controls, counter that spell or ability unless its controller pays {2}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, you've got two Diffusion Slivers. Let's call them Artemis and Boromir. Each of them has their own independent copy of this ability. When your opponent casts a spell that targets one of your slivers, you get &lt;em&gt;two&lt;/em&gt; triggered abilities going on the stack: one from Artemis and one from Boromir.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Artemis's triggered ability resolves, your opponent has to pay 2 mana to satisfy the cost of that ability (unless they let their spell be countered, but let's assume that doesn't happen). It's a general rule in Magic that &lt;strong&gt;you cannot pay for more than one cost using the same resources&lt;/strong&gt;. So the two mana used to pay for Artemis's ability's cost cannot &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; pay for the cost of Boromir's ability. When they pay the mana, they no longer have that mana - just like money. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Later on when Boromir's triggered ability resolves, your opponent will have to find two additional mana to pay for that cost. That makes a total of four.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T08:11:26.023" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32003" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:33:26.153" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The resources a player can buy from their neighboring cities are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• the resources initially produced by the city (as indicated on the board)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• the resources from its brown cards (raw materials)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;• the resources from its gray cards (manufactured goods)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, it is impossible to buy the resources produced by some commercial&#xA;structures (yellow cards) or by some Wonders: these resources are&#xA;reserved to their owner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since resources initially produced by cities behave identically to resources produced by brown/gray cards, it is good enough reason to color them same way, to distinquish them from non-buyable resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T08:33:26.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32016" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-09T08:33:56.853" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, the question if prompting moves to other players is welcome or not depends on the intention of the helping player. I think it's always nice to help players, e.g. to avoid bad mistakes, especially if they are new to a game and as long as this does not directly help or harm any other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you prompt alternate moves because they would fit better into your own strategy, it's disputable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you deliberately utilize weaker players by prompting them better moves, so you increase your own chances to win against the strongest player at the table, it's disputable as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But in the described case, you have a runaway-winner at the table and all other players have the same weak chances to turn around the game. In this situation, I actually would expect most gamers to team up automatically, without even discussing or suggesting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What would happen if you would openly suggest an alliance against Player 2? Would he accept this as long as you don't suggest concrete moves or are alliances completely forbidden?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17761" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T13:05:36.503" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T13:05:36.503" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-09T09:41:36.543" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;There can't be definitive answer to this question, as ethics generally doesn't provide hard guidelines. But I can suggest several points to consider:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Think about Player 3 first in isolation from &quot;you vs Player 2&quot; shenanigans. Was suggested move directly helpful to them? Haven't you tried to play the game for them? It's about whole group, not just you and Player 2.&#xA;Try to evaluate &quot;Player 3 is missing a move&quot; situation, and act same way. Say, they forgot they have a port and traded some resource with highter rate. Would you tell them? Would they be grateful or annoyed if you tell them?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Would you be okay on Player 2's place? If you are in the lead and other players gang up on you, how would you feel? Because if this practice will be accepted by your group, this will happen eventually.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Where is your group on competitive/casual scale? I would forbid such &quot;prompting&quot; in tournament play, but I wouldn't have any problems with it in casual beer-and-pretzels play. Looks like at least you and Player 2 have competitive mentality.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Catan is a game of negotiation, so I would expect highter allowance for such meta-gaming than in other games. Also, the decision is for Player 3 to make, if they're not ok with this play, they can just don't do it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, meta-gaming can fix the game as well as ruin it. And it doesn't end with &quot;gang up on leader&quot;, there are a lot more possibilities like &quot;I don't care about my own score as long as I don't let Bob win&quot; or &quot;Me and Sam will ally and help each other so one of us has better chance of winning than everyone else&quot;, etc. In other words, I don't recommend to open this Pandora's box unless you are sure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;[Update]&lt;/strong&gt; &#xA;There are other things to consider aside from ethics, and one of the most important in games is &lt;em&gt;fun&lt;/em&gt;. Right now you don't seem to have much fun with this game, so let's focus on this problem instead and analize some solutions.&#xA;The problem as it stands: there is runaway leader and all other player's chances to win are miniscule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First point I want to add: If all players have about the same skill level the issue disappears without any need for prompting. Changing a group is an option, but rarely a good one. Then again, if you continue playing with same group, less skilled player should pick up strategies and get better, so eventually you'll have equally skill leveled group. Probably won't happen soon though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Next, the problem is runaway leader. The means to mitigate it is not prompting itself, but &quot;gang up on leader&quot; strategy. Prompting is used to try to convince other players it's time to apply this strategy. This is the point I would try to explain to the group: playing with no chance to win isn't fun for everyone, so keeping leader in check makes game better. It's not about prompting, it's about general strategy.&#xA;If this point get's accepted, there might be no need for prompting, since players would try to apply this strategy on their own.&#xA;Then again, this shouldn't be all-time applied practice, because constantly ganging up on any leading player will just prolong the game and equalize scores. It should be applied cautiously to leave possibility for victory for other players when one of them is getting too far away. Although this is self-regulating behaviour, because ganging up on leader is not directly beneficial and unless there are no other viable options, players would chose more directly profitable moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="16237" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T13:21:01.237" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T13:21:01.237" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32018" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32010" CreationDate="2016-08-09T12:43:05.350" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;For this question, it's important to note that damage assignment happens in the Combat Damage step, but damage assignment order happens in the Declare Blockers Step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Main Question&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will be able to assign all damage to the Benalish Hero and save Lord of the Pits.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First of all, the rule that allows you (as the attacking player) to assign combat damage, rather than the defending player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.21k&lt;/strong&gt; During the combat damage step, if a blocking creature is blocking a creature with banding (...), the active player (rather than the defending player) chooses how the blocking creature’s damage is assigned. That player can divide that creature's combat damage as he or she chooses among any number of creatures it's blocking. This is an exception to the procedure described in rule 510.1d.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This allows you to ignore the damage assignment order that's set by the defending player ¹ ²&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Third, for each blocking creature, the defending player announces that creature's damage assignment order, which consists of the creatures it's blocking in an order of that player's choice. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;¹ &lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/75765284769/explain-banding-now&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/75765284769/explain-banding-now&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;² &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU552Z7PeAc&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BU552Z7PeAc&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Question 2.1 and 2.2&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for part 2.1 of your question, banding isn't part of the question whatsoever, you don't get the benefit of 702.21k. Damage assignment happens a step further ahead, but you will have to assign the damage assignment order right after being blocking by those creatures. Assuming your choice is &amp;quot;5/5, then 1/1, then 1/1, then 1/1, then 1/1&amp;quot;, your opponent will know that you intend to kill the 5/5. After declaring blockers and assigning the damage order, there is a round of priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;509.5.&lt;/strong&gt; Fifth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So they may cast Heal after knowing what you intend to do. Heal will prevent the next damage dealt to a creature, not actually increase it's toughness, so assigning 5 damage to it will be enough to justify the &amp;quot;deal lethal damage&amp;quot; requirement. This means that you get the choice of dealing 5 damage or more to the 5/5, but you will have to deal 6 damage to it to actually cause it to be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a great example of why it's useful to assign more damage than a creature has toughness at times.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Another possibility is that the second creature you're blocking is a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=214386&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Obliterator&lt;/a&gt; or a similar card that you want to avoid at all costs that it's being dealt damage. There are a lot of other good reasons in a game as complicated as Magic, and listing more would likely overcomplicate the issue, as I believe this scenario covers the most interesting one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:12:07.393" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-09T12:55:20.447" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're asking the wrong question here. It doesn't matter whether a bunch of people on the internet think that suggesting moves is good or bad etiquette - the problem is that player 2 'explodes'.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The real issue here has nothing to do with gaming etiquette, and everything to do with dealing with interpersonal conflict.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution is, to have a calm discussion about whether suggesting moves is acceptable. If you find that you can't agree, then simply don't play with that player. Frankly, someone getting that upset about a game is not someone that I would want to be playing with anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the day, you are playing the game to have fun. If you are not going to have fun, don't play the game. If the ending is determined half way through, then stop there. If the other player is trying to insist that you keep playing, but according to &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; rules, then simply concede - it's not worth the hassle of fighting them on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you should only do this if the other player is really being a problem; if you're just getting bored in the game but the other players are having fun, you should stick it out - after all, you wouldn't want them to drop out when you were in the lead, would you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If every time they start yelling at people about sportsmanship, then very quickly either they will learn not to do that, or other people will stop being willing to play with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if it's only you that has an issue with this, and the other players are fine with it, then you may instead find that &lt;em&gt;they&lt;/em&gt; are no longer willing to play with &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt;. In that case, you clearly have some fundamentally different ideas about what makes a game fun, and you should try a different game or a different gaming group. If the problem really is with you, then taking the above advice (about conceding when they start acting up) will just make you come across as a passive-aggressive a**, so do try the conversational approach first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your problem is with the player, not the game, so talk to the player. Make an agreement before you start on what rules you will play by. If you can't come to an agreement, then don't play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question really has nothing to do with boardgames - I suggest you try posting it somewhere else (e.g. quora.com - they're good for questions like this).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12963" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T12:55:20.447" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-09T14:26:54.990" Score="48" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't really an ethics question, it's more that you and Player 2 haven't agreed on which game you're playing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You&lt;/em&gt; want to play a game that involves loose alliances and table talk.&#xA;&lt;em&gt;Player 2&lt;/em&gt; wants to play a game with strict solo play and no talk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's not much you can do here apart from agree, in advance, which version of the game you're playing.  If you want to play the game differently, you'll need to play with different people or put up with agreeing to something you don't like.  Careful phrasing of this can get you away from this being a right/wrong thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What you &lt;em&gt;can&lt;/em&gt; do is bring games where open alliances are part of the game.  That could well loosen up player 2 to come round to your way of thinking.  &lt;strong&gt;Diplomacy&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;strong&gt;Cosmic Encounter&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Avalon&lt;/strong&gt; would be a good start.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this is separate from the issue of people &lt;em&gt;outside the game&lt;/em&gt; giving advice.  Personally I find that to be bad form.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T14:26:54.990" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32022" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31941" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:04:31.077" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To sum up what has been said and what I think :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the game, it is not efficient to go through multiple elements, in order to set up your &quot;economy&quot; (food production for example) as soon as possible. The goal of that is to avoid spending too much on food on first harvests.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At the end of the game, it is very important to score points in all categories because of the -1/+1 score gap.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17758" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T16:04:31.077" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-09T16:53:20.803" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is purely based on your group and the people you play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This form of &quot;prompting&quot; is often als called &lt;strong&gt;meta-gaming&lt;/strong&gt;. You &lt;em&gt;game&lt;/em&gt; outside the &lt;em&gt;game&lt;/em&gt;. With the people I frequently play with, this is abundant. It adds a new layer of depth to the game. You get shifting alliances, backstabbing, and politics during the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another observation is that this levels the playing field (games are often decided within a few points), but also significantly prolongs the game. Most matches my group play go over two or three hours, instead of being over after one ore 1.5 hours.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, when disallowing meta-gaming, the game usually has one clear winner, and ends more quickly, allowing for more matches. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is a distinction between meta-gaming and out-right &quot;playing the game for others&quot;. For example, if I only had a few points, and was attacked by another players, instead of him attacking a player with much more points, I would say something like &quot;Are you sure you want to do this? I not a threat anyways&quot;. Or I would simply let him attack me, while pointing out that this decision wasn't -- in my opinion -- the best tactical one. I would never suggest a concrete move to another player, e.g. &quot;use your knight at that crossing to get the robber away&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can lead to some funny situations, like everyone at the table shouting and fighting and cursing (in a freindly, game-ish manner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is that you and &lt;em&gt;Player 2&lt;/em&gt; disagree on whether &lt;em&gt;meta-gaming&lt;/em&gt; is allowed or not. He clearly does not want to allow it, you seem to want it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can not be solved by looking at the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would suggest an honest conversation about it with your friends. This might involve you explaining that the game is not fun for you without some &lt;em&gt;politics&lt;/em&gt; at the table. Explain hat you hate to see one runaway winner and not being allowed to do any intrigue against it. Try to explain how you think it &lt;em&gt;enhances&lt;/em&gt; gameplay. One key point I would focus on is that a game with one runaway leade is fun for one person, a close game where each one can pull off a win is fun and engaging for four players. I have often experienced games that lasted for 3h and were decided within one round, with the winner gaining the last point just before the next player could make his move and also win. This kind of close games happen much more often when meta-gaming is allowed. Also, winning is so much more sweet if you had to battle three people constantly (because you were in the lead the most time), and is also much more gratifying when you can get the victoy in an unexpected coup. When the stakes are higher, there is more fun (imho).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, try to gauge what the other players think, but also try to gauge what fors of meta-gaming they think are acceptable. it might be that &lt;em&gt;Player 2&lt;/em&gt; actually isn't against meta-gaming, but just has a problem with you telling others what to do. be open to step back and use more indirect forms of meta-gaming, if that is what it takes to each consensus.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So talk. But be prepared to be told &quot;no&quot;. Your group might just enjoy playing differently then you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;but, &lt;strong&gt;tl;dr:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is prompting players with alternate moves poor etiquette?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depends on the group. In my group, if the &quot;prompt&quot; is subtle and not to concrete, its more or less actively encouraged! You'd be seen as a whimp when not doing it. But you can also be frowned upon if its not wanted &lt;em&gt;within your group&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13658" LastEditorUserId="13658" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T17:00:19.073" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T17:00:19.073" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32024" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-09T17:24:24.977" Score="6" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;They initially choose to attack me. At this point I speak up&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Separately from whether alliance-forming should be part of the game, I think it's also worth considering whether &lt;em&gt;negotiating with someone after they've declared their move&lt;/em&gt;, in an attempt to talk them down and make them withdraw that move and replace it with another, should be part of the game. This goes beyond just suggesting a temporary alliance, or discussing possible moves with your allies: you're telling your opponents that the choice they've just made isn't good enough for you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catan has no formal planning phase of the turn (unlike, say, Diplomacy, which more or less &lt;em&gt;demands&lt;/em&gt; that you play by suggesting moves to other players and mutually discussing the options). So there has to be some flexibility about when moves are discussed, if they're going to be discussed at all. But you're persuading them at the most frustrating time. Quite aside from the fact that Player 2 doesn't want any plotting against him at all, you're not presenting the concept of teamwork to &lt;em&gt;anyone&lt;/em&gt; in the best way by (as it probably seems to them) demanding that another player delay their turn until they've heard your arguments as to what they should do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having an idea who's in the lead and what a given player can do to obstruct them is part of the game, true, and players 3 and 4 apparently aren't doing this very well. Maybe they don't think about it at all, or maybe they disagree with the moves you'd prefer them to make for reasons that make sense to them even though with your superior strategy you know they're being fools to themselves. But the biggest problem is that they're playing badly, and this makes the game dull. Not that they refuse to let you argue their moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore I recommend that you approach this by talking to players 3 and 4 (in particular, but 2 as well because excluding him would be a poor move both politically and in terms of friendship). Not initially about team play as such, but about the importance within the game of preventing the leader doing too well. Any teaming up is a means to that end, but it's perfectly possible for each player to come to their own individual conclusion who's ahead and what they can do about it. If you can persuade 3 and 4 &lt;em&gt;before the game starts&lt;/em&gt; that their best chance of winning is to inconvenience you when you're in the lead, and 2 when 2 is in the lead, you won't have to interrupt their turns with your protests. If you can't convince them of that before the game, then telling them in-game which moves they should make in order to achieve a goal that they've chosen not to try to achieve (a close game in which they have a shot of sneaking the win), is just rude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you might still face complaints about team-building when you say, &quot;hmm, player 2 seems to me to be pulling away, I think we should all block him where we can&quot;. But at least you can't be accused of prompting/suggesting &lt;em&gt;specific moves&lt;/em&gt; as alternatives to a player's announced move, because you won't be doing that any more. Focus on changing one thing at a time: you see prompting at the point of declaring a move as being the only way (or the best way) to change how players 3 and 4 react to player 2 taking a lead, but it shouldn't be the only way and they clearly don't like it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12540" LastEditorUserId="12540" LastEditDate="2016-08-09T18:45:26.787" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T18:45:26.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32025" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32026" CreationDate="2016-08-09T18:52:42.630" Score="0" ViewCount="927" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;herd&lt;/strong&gt; of cattle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pride&lt;/strong&gt; of lions&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;murder&lt;/strong&gt; of crows&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;school&lt;/strong&gt; of fish&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;colony&lt;/strong&gt; of ants&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... and a &lt;strong&gt;[something]&lt;/strong&gt; of Pokemon?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9838" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T20:57:48.167" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T20:57:48.167" Title="In the Pokemon Card Game what is a group of Pokemon called?" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ClosedDate="2016-08-10T15:38:24.997" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32025" CreationDate="2016-08-09T19:28:13.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A group of Pokemon is called the same as group of animals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for a cattle-like Pokemon it's &quot;herd&quot;, for lion-like Pokemon it's &quot;pride&quot;, and so on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-08-09T19:28:13.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32000" CreationDate="2016-08-09T20:07:54.250" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can open 2 clubs. This particular bid says nothing about &quot;clubs.&quot; You have a solid, playable standalone suit (spades), 19 points in high cards, and at least 24-25, counting your void and sixth spade. This is the only absolutely forcing opening bid (because it is artificial), and partner must respond, unless the opponents intervene.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Partner will likely respond 2 diamonds (waiting), unless s/he has something &quot;positive&quot; to say, and you will bid your &quot;real&quot; suit, 2 spades.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither partner nor opponents can &quot;reasonably&quot; get mad at you. &quot;Two clubs&quot; describes your hand (as in paragraph 1). Your high card points of 19 are &quot;close enough&quot; to the low twenties, and the unusually good distribution puts you firmly in the right zone for total points. (You would need another ace or king if your distribution were 5-3-3-2, but as it is, your void gives you enough strength.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;People used to (50-75 years ago) bid &quot;two spades&quot; with this hand, but nowadays, it would suggest a much weaker hand,e.g. AKQT98 of spades without the &quot;side&quot; honors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2019-04-02T16:52:20.657" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T16:52:20.657" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-10T01:19:48.820" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Have you considered playing &lt;del&gt;better&lt;/del&gt; other games? Catan and Risk are pretty much designed to be explosive in exactly the way you mention. Communication itself isn't the problem, so much as ease of manipulating an other player's strategy into your own.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For &lt;em&gt;fully&lt;/em&gt; cooperative games there's Pandemic, Forbidden Island/Desert, and many others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's competitive strategy games where your immediate paths cross a bit less than they do in Catan. Think Puerto Rico, and Agricola (PR's been heated for me too though -- Agricola not so much).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, shop around. A lot of people feel a big sigh of relief when they find games as challenging and fun as Catan but without the constant clash and manipulation against each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3619" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T01:19:48.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32031" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33224" CreationDate="2016-08-10T10:19:23.840" Score="5" ViewCount="1041" Body="&lt;p&gt;Next week I am participating in my first Star Wars X-Wing tournament. The tournament will be from 10am with up to 16 participants and three to four games. I have played Star Wars X-Wing with a friend for a couple of weeks now and collected a considerable amount of Empire ships. I have planned to bring the following things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships plus cards required for my build plus tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Five printed copies of my build&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bottled water and snacks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Good mood&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, I want to prepare the following things until the day of the tournament:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fly my build a few more times&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Read the FFG rules used at the tournament&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you have any additional tips or did I forget anything?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16259" LastEditorUserId="377" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T19:38:40.887" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T21:51:33.873" Title="What should I prepare for a Star Wars X-Wing tournament?" Tags="|tournament|star-wars-x-wing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-10T13:55:50.237" Score="0" ViewCount="260" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm creating my own version of risk and I'm now on to printing the cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My printer can use up to 250gsm paper, but before I purchase some I want to know if it will be suitable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the standard for cards and card games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12851" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:10:26.587" Title="250gsm stock good enough for cards?" Tags="|board-game-adaptations|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32033" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32032" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:10:26.587" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to Wikipedia, a standard playing card has a size of B8 and a weight of 1.8g. So if I got the math right, it's 180gsm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the link:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_52-card_deck&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standard_52-card_deck&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17761" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:10:26.587" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-10T14:25:43.113" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is  similar to &quot;kingmaking&quot; in board gaming, which is a loose term to describe players who are in a unwinnable situation deciding on actions in order to ensure the player of their choice wins the game rather than the currently leading player. This can also be in the form of a collusion of players that cannot win themselves in order to help another player win rather than the currently leading player. This behaviour is very often (generally?) considered unsportsmanlike, as the kingmakers don't actually improve their game position and the player who earned (by luck or by skill) his current top position is de-throned, often (not always) out of spite.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your situation is different, though, in that the colluding players actually gain from the collusion and can still win the game. In my play group, this is usually considered acceptable and only frowned upon if either&#xA;i) actual kingmaking is involved&#xA;ii) it get's excessive, where an all-vs-all game becomes a huge gangup and a player is targeted by a group of other players repeatedly to the point where the game only resolves around stopping that particular player, and the eventual winner is a coin toss among the rest&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9803" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T14:25:43.113" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32036" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32000" CreationDate="2016-08-10T22:57:19.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you make a 2C opener (other than with a balanced hand too strong for a 2NT opener) you are making two promises to your partner in addition to the advertised playing strength:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Partner can safely double any opposing contract that outbids your side, even and especially with a bust, as a means of denying interest in further bidding, confident that the opponents will be set multiple tricks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;That your hand can be further described &lt;em&gt;in shape&lt;/em&gt; with a single call. If you will need more than a single bid to describe your hand then it is almost always better to open with one of a suit instead. Exceptions should be well above minimum for a 2C opener in both offense and defense.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the first is obvious - if you are going to advertise great strength before a fit is found with partner, you must be prepared to punish opponents who interfere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason for the second is more subtle; because you are consuming so much space, it is necessary that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;partner&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; be capable of making decisions on level and denomination. This can only happen if you can complete the description of your hand quickly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your given hand meets the basic requirements for a Strong 2C, and easily meets the first extra requirement above. (Since if opponents are competing in Clubs, you are going to bid on.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However you are not meeting the second requirement above particularly well. It is easy to construct hand for partner such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: x&#xA;H: xxxx&#xA;D: A97x&#xA;C: xxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;that will play one or even two tricks better in diamonds than in Spades. You may not be able to find the excellent diamond fit after an auction such as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;2C  3C  *  5C&#xA;?&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;where partner's double of 3C states that he is not broke.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The auction&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;1S  3C  *  5C&#xA;5D&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is not only very much easier for both you and partner to handle, but after the 1S opening it is less likely to have escalated to the 5 level on the first round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I vastly prefer a 1S opening, &lt;em&gt;especially against strong opponents&lt;/em&gt; so as to not lose the possibility of playing in a second suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, against weak opponents you might open 2C in case they don't understand the reopening process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You need have no qualms that a director might rule against you: You easily surpass the requirement for 8.5 playing tricks and 4 honour tricks, having 9.5 and 4 (or even 4.25, counting the diamond combination in a 4-card suit as 1.25) respectively.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-08-10T23:03:40.557" LastActivityDate="2016-08-10T23:03:40.557" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32037" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32004" CreationDate="2016-08-11T03:48:39.900" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paizo has actually admitted that Wrath of the Righteous ended up a little harder than intended. In particular, the B scenarios are considered by some to be harder than the #1 scenarios.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fortunately, &lt;a href=&quot;http://paizo.com/paizo/faq/v5748nruor1h4#v5748eaic9u1s&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this is addressed in the FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution: Make one or both of these changes only if you're looking for an easier time with Wrath B scenarios:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the B and C henchman Tangle Trap, add the line &amp;quot;If defeated, you may immediately attempt to close the location this henchman came from.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move some or all of the following cards from Set B and/or C to Set 1, and change their set indicators to 1: the barrier Arboreal Blight (B &amp;amp; C), the monster Carrion Golem (B &amp;amp; C), and 1 of the Demonic Horde barriers in B and/or the Demonic Horde barrier currently in C. Then move some or all of the following cards from Set 1 to Set B, and change their set indicators to B: the monster Accursed Priest and the barrier Poisoned Spiked Pit Trap.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2816" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T03:48:39.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32038" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-11T07:01:23.427" Score="4" ViewCount="1502" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoldaren%20Pariah%5d&quot;&gt;Voldaren Pariah&lt;/a&gt; is exiled while transforming? Does it still force target player to sacrifice 3 creatures? Also if it is returned from exile, does it returned already transformed and if it does, does its triggered ability go on the stack then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18027" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T07:13:10.100" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T18:47:00.790" Title="Voldaren Pariah is exiled while transforming" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32038" CreationDate="2016-08-11T07:29:59.977" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;target player does not have to sacrifice 3 creatures as this is what happens&lt;br&gt;&#xA;1. you sacrifice 3 creatures to transform it&lt;br&gt;&#xA;2. Activated ability goes on the stack&lt;br&gt;&#xA;3. pariah is exiled&lt;br&gt;&#xA;4. Ability resolves&lt;br&gt;&#xA;5. the ability states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;when this &lt;strong&gt;creature&lt;/strong&gt; transforms into Abolisher of Bloodlines&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the comprehensive rules  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;406.2. To exile an object is to put it into the exile zone from whatever zone it’s currently in. An exiled card is a &lt;strong&gt;card&lt;/strong&gt; that’s been put into the exile zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point it is no longer a creature but a card in exile meaning that target player won't have to sacrifice anything  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When it returns to the battlefield it will be a voldaren pariah and nothing will happen because when a card is moved to an other zone it becomes a new object meaning it will not remember anything that happend before, meaning that it will not remember that you transformed it so it will not be transformed  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is stated in the comprehensive rules here&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastEditorUserId="16410" LastEditDate="2016-08-11T12:54:37.123" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T12:54:37.123" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32042" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-11T13:57:49.430" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Fascinating.  I think on some level your friend player 2 and yourself are, as has been stated, playing a different meta game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I gathered some opinions about this from my current gaming group (my wife and 12 yo) to see how this bounces off them.  We all agreed that “ganging up” on the lead player is all part of the game, and should be encouraged.  However, we all very much dislike the idea of telling other people exactly what they should be doing.&#xA;Couple things, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You stated that &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; player 3 declared their move, to attack you, you decided to point out how wrong this move was and they should attack someone else.  While I would not accuse you of “weak moral fiber” (ha) I would say that this is kind of over the line.  You might grumble a bit, and hope that player 4 does not also capitalize on your weakness, and address player 2, but player 3 already said what they were doing, so be quiet.  That said, pointing out who is in the lead, and what a favorable position they have is perfectly fine between declarations, in fact encouraged at our table.  Keep everyone in the loop, but maybe not suggest every move.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If I was player 2, and had played my game carefully and through a stroke of luck, player 3 decided to not press me, I might be a bit put off by your request that they attack me after declaring their moves.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Consider that Player 3 might have thought that attacking you (in Catan?) was more helpful to them, than focusing on the current leader.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, perhaps while you consider yourself “a strong player” in your words, the rest of the table is actually not impressed with your suggestions.  Consider that maybe Player 2 is the only one who is vocal about it.  Being a bit oppositional-defiant myself, I do not actually appreciate someone telling me what the “best” move is throughout any game, and maybe Player 3 is sick of your … attitude.  Raising kids, I find that I have to back off and let them make mistakes so that they can see and experience the consequences of a less than ideal choice.  When a person is not a strong player either because they are new, or just don’t want to spend the effort to become one, they might find much enjoyment out of just seeing what strategy A can do vs strategy B.  When new, we might actually enjoy losing, because we were just trying to gather maximum wheat…. just because.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I do not want that last paragraph to sound harsh.  I hope it didn’t. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find that this gets MUCH WORSE with cooperative games like pandemic, where mostly, the group decides the best course of action, and there isn’t really much room for individuals to make any decisions.  I’d suggest your group stay away from that one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR  Yes.  After they’ve declared their intentions, it should be avoided.  Nothing wrong with sweeping generalizations about the state of the leader, however. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17895" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T13:57:49.430" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31578" CreationDate="2016-08-11T15:35:33.330" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can search for differences in the base sets, or for posts on what is new in each successive base set, but here are some of the more fun additions in each one from my experience:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Skull &amp;amp; Shackles&lt;/strong&gt; introduces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules clarifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Slightly higher difficulty than RotR&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships and fleets: build a fleet, gain access to minor abilities through your ships, and fight or seize other ships&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Firearms... lots and lots of firearms&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wrath of the Righteous&lt;/strong&gt; introduces:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules clarifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Definitely higher difficulty than SaS&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Mythic Paths: epic character specializations, that allow you to roll D20's and perform extra feats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cohorts: special ally-like cards for various scenarios&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Armies and troop cards: special challenges and allies&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Demons... lots and lots of demons&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mummy's Mask&lt;/strong&gt; will introduce:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules clarifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Triggers: abilities that trigger when you merely &lt;em&gt;examine&lt;/em&gt; a card in a deck, before you encounter it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Probably some mummies (educated guess)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I really like the rules clarifications/enhancements in each set, and most of the new mechanics (ships are a little clunky). But that said, I would recommend a beginner start with &lt;strong&gt;Runelords&lt;/strong&gt;, a great well-balanced, low-difficulty, high-fantasy-themed set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2816" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T15:35:33.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31673" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:03:45.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tau Codex 2 editions ago (4th, I think, it was) has a page with full comprehensive list of pictures, with text which bit resembles what. I recommend you to find that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18036" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:03:45.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29949" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:06:22.180" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Check the last GW Tau FAQ on their facebook page. They have errated this rule to read &quot;They shoot at the same target one after another&quot; rather than &quot;as one unit&quot;. That ends the discussion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18036" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T16:06:22.180" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32038" CreationDate="2016-08-11T16:17:29.740" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are two possible outcomes, depending on when the Volarden Pariah is exiled. These are the only two possibilities; you can't do anything &lt;em&gt;while&lt;/em&gt; the Pariah is transforming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;While the activated ability is on the stack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the Pariah will never transform, and the triggered ability that would make the opponent sacrifice creatures never goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rules are these:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.7.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The source of an ability is the object that generated it. &lt;strong&gt;The source of an activated ability on the stack is the object whose ability was activated.&lt;/strong&gt; The source of a triggered ability (other than a delayed triggered ability) on the stack, or one that has triggered and is waiting to be put on the stack, is the object whose ability triggered. To determine the source of a delayed triggered ability, see rules 603.7d–f.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Name&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;201.4.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Zone&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.7.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we put these all together, we see that the instruction &amp;quot;Transform Volarden Pariah&amp;quot; really means &amp;quot;Transform the object whose ability was activated&amp;quot;. And when the Pariah is exiled, it becomes a new object, so the original object doesn't exist, and the &amp;quot;Transform&amp;quot; instruction just does nothing. Since it never transforms, the triggered ability on the back face never triggers, and the opponent doesn't have to sacrifice three creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;After the activated ability resolves&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the activated ability resolves, the triggered ability on the back face &lt;em&gt;immediately&lt;/em&gt; goes on the stack, because &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Timing_and_priority&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 116.2a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities can trigger at any time, including while a spell is being cast, an ability is being activated, or a spell or ability is resolving. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”) However, nothing actually happens at the time an ability triggers. &lt;strong&gt;Each time a player would receive priority, each ability that has triggered but hasn’t yet been put on the stack is put on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt; See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 112.7a&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, even if the Pariah is exiled while the triggered ability is on the stack, the ability still f the resolves, and forces the opponent to sacrifice three creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;If the Pariah re-enters the battlefield&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In either case, the Pariah will enter the battlefield face-up. &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Double-faced_card&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 711.8&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A double-faced card enters the battlefield with its front face up by default.&lt;/strong&gt; If a spell or ability puts it onto the battlefield “transformed,” it enters the battlefield with its back face up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And rule 400.7 (quoted above) says that it doesn't remember its previous existence, so there's nothing that would change what it does from the default.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T18:47:00.790" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32047" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31690" CreationDate="2016-08-11T21:09:35.540" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very strange question, as long as all lists (Vehicle Equipment, Ranged Weapons, Support Systems, Signature Systems) have points cost for each option. I'll recommend download elder 2012 codex, which can be used as 2015 one with updates printed in Kauyon book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And ranged weapons ARE NOT 14 pts., they are all divided to 5 (+5 for twin-linked): 5 for flamer, 10 for burst cannon and 15 for any other. Vehicle battle systems cost from 1 to 15 pts., support systems -- from 3 to 50 and signature systems cost from 2 to 25 (50 for FE).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18040" LastActivityDate="2016-08-11T21:09:35.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32048" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T00:46:58.090" Score="1" ViewCount="669" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm playing as the USSR in the fantastic Twilight Struggle PC implementation by GMT, and I have a hand of two cards, one is Five-Year Plan, which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;USSR Player must randomly discard one card. If the card is a US&#xA;  associated Event, the Event occurs immediately. If the card is a USSR&#xA;  associated Event or an Event applicable to both players, then the card&#xA;  must be discarded without triggering the Event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and the other is Truman Doctrine:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Remove all USSR Influence markers in one uncontrolled country in&#xA;  Europe.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I go to play Five-Year Plan, it gives me the &lt;code&gt;Defcon Warning&lt;/code&gt;. I'm apparently missing something because I don't understand why playing Five-Year Plan in this situation would allow my opponent to lower Defcon. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is this a defcon suicide card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="10042" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T13:28:33.703" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:54:57.703" Title="Five-Year plan - defcon suicide?" Tags="|twilight-struggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32049" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32048" CreationDate="2016-08-12T06:47:46.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The USSR might have a card in hand which is a US associated event which automatically lowers defcon, e.g., Duck and Cover. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This answer was for the question as originally stated, which did not specify that the poster was playing as the USSR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10186" LastEditorUserId="10186" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T14:54:57.703" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:54:57.703" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32050" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-12T10:56:54.683" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;For Catan specifically...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ganging up on the leader is part of the game. Attacking someone other than the leader for a personal gain is part of the game. Making mistakes is part of the game. Knowing other player's positions by meticulously keeping track of the details is part of the game (I tend to keep track of exactly which resources everyone has in their hands, and playing IRL I'll even watch exactly where each card is if I really need to pull an Ore from someone... they really don't like that ;) ). &lt;em&gt;Not&lt;/em&gt; knowing players' positions because you are distracted is part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my opinion, any information which is unhidden by the rules, like what resources a player has picked up recently, is fair game and I don't think it's poor sportsmanship for it to be discussed freely. Speculation, like if you think a player has a VP point card, can be tricky and really misleading to a newer player, but again, just in my opinion, it's fair game for discussion. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So to provide a suggestion for resolving this issue in your group, I would just explain to them that talking about the score and prompting someone about moves is all just part of the game. But you all have to remember that it's not necessary to listen to the suggestions. And &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; have to remember that the other players are free to play how they like, and that making suggestions to them might rub them the wrong way and ultimately come back to bite you, and that's &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; problem. Being attacked by Player 3 when Player 2 is leading is &lt;strong&gt;your&lt;/strong&gt; problem, and you have to deal with it. Prompting them to attack Player 2 instead is one way to deal with it, but it sounds like it's not very effective, so &lt;strong&gt;you&lt;/strong&gt; need to figure out a better way to avoid that situation. Because remember, getting screwed over &lt;strong&gt;is part of the game&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's fine for you to prompt, it's fine for the other players to get annoyed, and it's fine for Player 2 to call you out. To me, that's all fair game. Getting frustrated is part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your tone is: &quot;You &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; attack Player 2 because they are going to win soon if you don't&quot; that might be effective, but if your message is &quot;You &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; to attack Player 2 otherwise you are an idiot and ruining the game&quot;, that's probably not going to get anyone to listen to you. So think about that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a tip:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A strategy I use online, not so much in real life, is as someone starts pulling ahead, I'll sprinkle in comments to suggest that player is &lt;em&gt;dominating&lt;/em&gt; the game, and it can often get the other players to attack that player:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Wow, White's city on the ore is really paying off...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Red has the best board setup...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Blue can buy anything they need...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And comments about how bad I'm doing (especially if I am doing well...):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;Man, I should have built there instead...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;I can't get anything I need...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;I'm getting such bad luck...&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing online is different because you can't see what move a player is about to make, and there's no undo, so berating someone for a bad move after the fact usually gets you nowhere. Try slowly influencing the other players throughout the game, instead of suddenly saying &quot;DUDE YOU GOTTA ATTACK HIM&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even if you are totally right that Player 3 should attack Player 2 for the benefit of everyone, &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; have to find a better way to get into his head. You have to read the other players better and find a better way to manipulate them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And you should suggest to Player 2 that he only thinks it's unsportsmanlike because he's not confident in his ability, because if he was good he would win anyways... they will be pissed at you at first but I bet they would change their attitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR; No it's not bad etiquette for casual play, but you can't expect everyone to listen to you and you have to understand there might be negative consequences for you for doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated TLDR&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Catan was designed for these kind of conflicts and questions over &quot;morals&quot; and &quot;etiquette&quot; to arise. It's intentionally ambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18043" LastEditorUserId="18043" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T00:47:10.720" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T00:47:10.720" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32052" CreationDate="2016-08-12T12:07:16.510" Score="5" ViewCount="897" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I understand most of Hearts and love to play it on my phone. That's where I learned it. There is one thing that I don't get, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems like when a player takes the trick 3 times or so in a row he/she will &quot;take the rest&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was trying to shoot the moon earlier and gave away all my low number cards. After a few rounds (the queen of spades was not even played at that point) the app said that I will take the rest and the others all got 26 points because I took all the tricks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone explain this situation? When does someone take the rest? I couldn't find anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18044" LastActivityDate="2019-03-02T09:42:00.310" Title="&quot;Taking the rest&quot; in the card game Hearts" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32051" CreationDate="2016-08-12T13:34:15.633" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;This feature by Karman Games is called &quot;&lt;code&gt;auto-complete&lt;/code&gt;&quot;. It is also utilized in other games they make, such as Euchre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, if there is only one mathematical outcome, then there is no point in playing the rest of the hand out (or at least, that's how Karman Games sees it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it doesn't (and can't) occur to the same extent, you can technically apply this feature on tabletop as well:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you know you have the top X cards in Hearts (or Euchre), then some people will flop their entire hand down, rather than playing each card individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that you may not even have the top X cards in Hearts/Euchre to do this... if you do the math correctly and/or remember what cards have already been played, you can figure out the number of hands/tricks you are guaranteed to win (so long as you play them in the correct order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your calculation ends up being incorrect, and you flop down your hand mistakenly, it is called a &quot;renege&quot; and you will be penalized for it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7874" LastEditorUserId="7874" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T13:39:27.167" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T13:39:27.167" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32053" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T13:35:53.620" Score="3" ViewCount="543" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am back, played a club level tournament recently.  Got creamed in it.  I think I couldn't deal with the pressure.  MY question is that my partner (an old timer) to my opening bid of 1 Club responded 2 Diamonds.  I thought it was a sort of a preempt bid but she had 14-15 points and 5 diamonds.  She was trying to say show a big hand which I failed to comprehend.  Needless to say we missed game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as always many thanks for your time. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastEditorUserId="17832" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T04:20:41.850" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T01:14:25.453" Title="Bridge Responders Jump shows a preempt or points...Playing Standard American" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32054" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2016-08-12T14:35:11.497" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;For questions about Standard American, you can always refer to the  &lt;a href=&quot;http://web2.acbl.org/documentlibrary/play/SP3%20(bk)%20single%20pages.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Standard American Yellow Card System Booklet&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the booklet says that jump-shift responses are strong and slam invitational. The downside to the booklet is that it doesn't really cover followups for most bids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Preemptive jump-shifts are quite popular among players who play a 2/1 system, but Standard American's inability to force to game at a low level makes slam exploration too difficult when responder holds a good hand with an excellent suit unless you play strong jump-shifts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T14:35:11.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-08-12T15:21:29.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this stage Player 2 'explodes'. I am berated for making such a suggestion, called a bad sport, and are accused of being of weak moral fibre.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately Player 2 has been a better political opponent as well as player,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fascinating. So Player 2 not only disapproves of you doing &amp;quot;politics&amp;quot; during the game, but also is heavily &amp;quot;politic'ing&amp;quot; outside the game. Did you consider that his &amp;quot;explosion&amp;quot; &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; actually metagaming? Why can he tell &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; what to do when &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; are not allowed to tell Player 3 what to do?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In our Catan games, the boardgame itself is usually just a shallow backdrop to the &lt;em&gt;real&lt;/em&gt; game, which is the political stage. Everything goes, and people are rocking their best, and worst, in these games. Every kind of emotion is faked as necessary, all kinds of arguments are used. As long as the physical movements on the board are according to game rules (what is placed where etc.), it's perfectly fine!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If that is not the case in your group, I don't see what would help you, really, except picking another game. Catan in itself (without the political aspect) seems quite dull to me after a few rounds, because as soon as one pulls ahead, it's over, unless the others band together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18047" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T15:21:29.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32056" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-12T16:02:05.180" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All Fours&lt;/em&gt; is a trick-taking game, also known as High-Low-Jack or Seven Up. It is one of the oldest card games in England that is still played today, and was first known to be described in Charles Cotton's &lt;em&gt;Compleat Gamester&lt;/em&gt;, written in 1674.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/All_Fours&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T21:50:53.017" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T21:50:53.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32057" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-12T16:02:05.180" Score="0" Body="A trick-taking game, also known as High-Low-Jack or Seven Up." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T21:50:49.827" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T21:50:49.827" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32058" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32059" CreationDate="2016-08-12T17:04:35.110" Score="6" ViewCount="3814" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are some effects that allow players to spend mana as though it were mana of any color, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMycosynth%20Lattice%5d&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... Players may spend mana as though it were mana of any color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also cards that care about the colors of mana spent to cast them, notably Sunburst/Converge, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=%20[%22was%20spent%20to%20cast%22]&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;some others&lt;/a&gt;. e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAzorius%20Herald%5d&quot;&gt;Azorius Herald&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Azorius Herald enters the battlefield, sacrifice it unless {U} was spent to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I cast an Azorius Herald with {G}{G}{G}, can I spend it 'as though' it was {W}{U}{U} or similar, so that I don't have to sacrifice it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T17:07:03.803" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:09:43.997" Title="Spend mana as though it were mana of any color and Sunburst/Converge" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32059" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32058" CreationDate="2016-08-12T17:29:24.343" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, that does not work. Mycosynth Lattice lets you spend mana &lt;em&gt;as though&lt;/em&gt; it were mana of any color, but the spell cares about what types of mana you actually used to cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Effects&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rule 609.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some effects state that a player may do something “as though” some condition were true or a creature can do something “as though” some condition were true. This applies only to the stated effect. For purposes of that effect, treat the game exactly as if the stated condition were true. For all other purposes, treat the game normally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this situation, that means that you can treat the mana you're spending as any color while paying a cost, but that effect doesn't extend to when you're resolving a spell or ability, and you want to check the colors spent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCelestial%20Dawn%5d&quot;&gt;Celestial Dawn&lt;/a&gt; has a similar ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may spend white mana as though it were mana of any color. You may spend other mana only as though it were colorless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And there is an official ruling about it that applies to the situation in question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may use a different color mana than the color required for spells and abilities that require a specific color. If you do, and the spell or ability checks the actual color of the mana, it can tell the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This conclusion is supported by a few rulings from the level 3 judge who runs the &quot;Ask a Magic Judge&quot; tumblr blog:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/129154902568/how-would-mycosynth-lattice-work-with-converge&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;How would Mycosynth Lattice work with converge spells - would &quot;use mana as though it were mana of any color&quot; satisfy &quot;each color of mana spent&quot;?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Not very well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;While you can spend colorless mana through the lattice as though it were any color, it’s still colorless mana as far as Converge is concerned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/104981967889/mycosynth-lattice-in-edh-spending-colorless-mana&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mycosynth Lattice in EDH: spending colorless mana AS IF it were mana of any color doesnt break 903.9.... right?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;However, you’re still not spending mana of that color, so something like Sunburst or Firespout will know the difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magicjudge.tumblr.com/post/66251020209/if-i-control-mycosynth-lattice-then-cast-skyreach&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;If I control Mycosynth Lattice, then cast Skyreach Manta spending WWWWW as though it were WUBRG, how many +1/+1 counters will the Manta enter the battlefield with?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;One.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;    &#xA;    &lt;p&gt;Sunburst always knows what you actually paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-12T18:09:43.997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:09:43.997" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14787" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:08:20.697" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I find that this combination for LATER on in the solo series is pretty clutch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tutor - 6 pts if you get him first&#xA;&lt;br&gt; Clay plasterer - kind of like a combination of the renovator and the carpenter&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Field Watchmen - great opener in the game, if you have a cooking hearth or clay oven with this guy you can cook hella food.&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Church Warden - great to start with  wood and get points at the end for family members&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Lord of the Manor - can definitely capitalize on 8 points with the right minor improvements&#xA;&lt;br&gt;Piece Worker or Grocer or Resource Seller - so that you can get some extra stone, and other resources&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you include the G deck I'd definitely say the Food Critic, but otherwise the Chief is a good call.  Chief on average gives me an extra 5 points, but the food critic usually gives me 6.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the Clay Plasterer kind of eliminates the need for having too many other occupations that give you extra resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can pretty consistently get up in the 80's and 90's with these occupations together, depending on the minor improvements that I get.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to be a big fan of the wet nurse, but honestly I with the clay plasterer I can almost get family members up just as fast, and using &quot;family growth and a minor improvement&quot; helps get a lot of points later.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Just don't extend your home with wood, only with clay, and that's how you can really optimize the clay plasterer's abilities.  You'll have plenty of wood for building stables and fences and getting the joinery.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can post some screen shots of recent solo series I've been doing if you want to see.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18048" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:08:20.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32061" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5112" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:24:32.507" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;As of January 18th, 2016, the restriction on other colors of mana (mentioned in other answer) was &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgcommander.net/EDH_Root/changelog.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;removed&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 4 removed. Decks may now generate mana of any colour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They can still be in you deck, but now they can make any color of mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-12T18:24:32.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32062" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T18:31:57.413" Score="1" ViewCount="629" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know that the iOS version has the &quot;G&quot; pack, but I'm wondering if that G Pack exists for the actual board game or if there are any other expansion packs.  Has anyone used those other expansion packs?  Are they pretty fun to use?  What are some of the cards like?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18048" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T03:46:51.690" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T02:01:18.657" Title="Are there any other card packs for Agricola other than the E, I, and K?" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32063" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-12T22:18:09.603" Score="1" ViewCount="347" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I emerge a card like Mockery of Nature, does it get summoning sickness?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18052" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T19:11:13.340" Title="MTG Does &quot;Emerging&quot; cause summoning sickness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-08-13T00:30:08.223" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32063" CreationDate="2016-08-12T22:38:37.620" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your Mockery of Nature will have summoning sickness when it enters the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you pay the emerge cost of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMockery%20of%20Nature%5d&quot;&gt;Mockery of Nature&lt;/a&gt;, it is just an alternate casting cost.  As such, it doesn't change the summoning sickness rule in anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7881" LastEditorUserId="18090" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T19:11:13.340" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T19:11:13.340" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32065" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32070" CreationDate="2016-08-13T17:10:14.973" Score="0" ViewCount="936" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking to pick of Mansions of Madness now that the second edition has been released. I know that the first edition had a several expansions released, and I know that the MoM &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/mansions-madness-second-edition-showcase/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;second edition website&lt;/a&gt; says that owners of the first edition &lt;em&gt;Forbidden Alchemy&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;Call of the Wild&lt;/em&gt; expansions are able to use pieces to expand the second edition. But the wording is unclear whether or not owners of &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; those expansions can make use of pieces from them to expand, or if the first edition is also required.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there any benefit to buying the second edition and those expansions? Is there anything from the expansions that I'd miss out on without the first edition?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18056" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T22:56:01.613" Title="Can I use expansions with the second edition without owning the first edition?" Tags="|mansions-of-madness|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32009" CreationDate="2016-08-13T17:16:23.420" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Those are perfectly normal triggered abilities. Each ability triggers when a sliver is targeted with a spell or ability. The controller of the abilities gets to put them on the stack in any order he or she prefers and his opponent gets to choose to pay either 0, 2 or 4 colourless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that two cards have the same name does not change how triggered abilities work, or how they are put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T17:16:23.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31980" CreationDate="2016-08-13T17:39:57.860" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Emerge is an Alternative Cost so it is...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A cost a spell may have that its controller can pay rather than paying&#xA;  its mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All this said it still is a cost and uses the same rules for paying cost that the regular casting of spells do. This includes all cost must be paid for before the spell is cast and priority can change.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your opponent will sacrifice as a cost of emerge and only after all cost have been paid can your opponent pass priority, when this happen the creature he sacrificed will already be in the graveyard and unable to be targeted with any spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the old MTG adage go... &quot;You cannot respond to costs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can find all the pertinent rules to this question &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Alternative_cost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;also here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T21:07:56.483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T21:07:56.483" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32068" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32069" CreationDate="2016-08-13T21:19:42.703" Score="6" ViewCount="1367" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why when a spell get &quot;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpell%20Queller%5d&quot;&gt;Spell Queller&lt;/a&gt;ed&quot; the spell does not resolve, even though it's not written that it &quot;counters&quot; but instead &quot;exiles&quot; the spell? Is there a special ruling or am I missing something? (I'm still kinda new to Magic.) I've been told numerous time that a card effect still resolves (if not countered) even if it's removed from the stack, like for example if I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStasis%20Snare%5d&quot;&gt;Stasis Snare&lt;/a&gt; on a creature that has a &quot;enter the battlefield&quot; effect that effect will still resolve unless it is &quot;countered.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17948" LastEditorUserId="17948" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T21:31:31.597" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T21:31:31.597" Title="Why does Spell Queller prevent spells from resolving?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32068" CreationDate="2016-08-13T21:25:16.177" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpell%20Queller%5d&quot;&gt;Spell Queller&lt;/a&gt; exiles the spell itself. The other situation you're talking about is removing the &lt;em&gt;source&lt;/em&gt; of an ability on the stack, while leaving the ability there on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Spells and abilities can only resolve if they're on the stack. So when Spell Queller exiles a spell, it's just gone. There's nothing there to resolve anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if your opponent casts a creature with an &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; ability, say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlrich%20of%20the%20Krallenhorde%5d&quot;&gt;Ulrich of the Krallenhorde&lt;/a&gt;, we're talking about two objects: Ulrich himself (a creature on the battlefield), and its ability (on the stack). The two are independent. If you actually removed the &lt;em&gt;ability&lt;/em&gt;, say by casting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSummary%20Dismissal%5d&quot;&gt;Summary Dismissal&lt;/a&gt;, then it wouldn't resolve. But if you remove Ulrich, the ability is still there to resolve and give the targeted creature +4/+4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Same goes for activated abilities, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThermo-Alchemist%5d&quot;&gt;Thermo-Alchemist&lt;/a&gt;'s ability to deal one damage to each opponent. If you remove the Thermo-Alchemist, the ability is still there to deal you damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-08-13T21:29:17.833" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T21:29:17.833" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32065" CreationDate="2016-08-13T22:56:01.613" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Even if you don't have the first edition core game, you will still be able to use &quot;Call of the Wild&quot; and &quot;Forbidden Alchemy&quot; to expand your second edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(However, the &quot;Suppressed Memories&quot; expansion for second edition will probably be a better choice in financial terms.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It contains all the components from &quot;Call of the Wild&quot; and &quot;Forbidden Alchemy&quot; that are used by second edition)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-08-13T22:56:01.613" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32072" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32073" CreationDate="2016-08-14T09:04:43.327" Score="5" ViewCount="489" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have deck without sleeves, and some cards in my deck are heads down(not upside-down, you don't see the images, but can recognize that some card backs are head down, while others not). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can my opponent force me to look through my whole deck to fix that? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It happened in my club at least twice. I did not cheat, neither of us who were forced to do that make heads down cards on purpose(we shuffle like that, he insists that those cards may be lands or winconditions), but it eats lots of time to sort them back and is just annoying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I at least force a player that don't like heads down cards(or judge?) to fix that instead of me, if it is in the rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11538" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T10:11:41.617" Title="Some cards in my deck are heads down, can opponent force me to fix that?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32073" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32072" CreationDate="2016-08-14T10:11:41.617" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Nobody but judges are allowed to look at your deck during the game. You will need a judge to fix your deck.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During a game, you would obviously not be allowed to look through your deck unless an effect would allow you to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;401.2. Each library must be kept in a single face-down pile. Players can’t look at or change the order of cards in a library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament setting, your deck would count as marked, and you would get at least a Warning for it, possibly a game loss:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tournament Error — Marked Cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A player’s cards are marked or oriented in a way that could potentially give an advantage to that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Penalty - Warning&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Head Judge has the option to upgrade this penalty to a Game Loss if he or she believes that a player noticing the pattern of markings would clearly compromise the integrity of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only a judge would be allowed to fix your deck as a remedy to the infraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the error was not reported, and the Head Judge is convinced that you knew it was illegal, and that you intended to gain an advantage from the cards' orientation, the infraction would probably be upgraded to Cheating, and you would have to get a disqualification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T10:11:41.617" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32074" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32080" CreationDate="2016-08-14T17:58:32.823" Score="0" ViewCount="2013" Body="&lt;p&gt;By removing a card from your hand from the game. Does the card go in the trash pile or do we remove it from the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18068" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T22:38:05.747" Title="Remove card from game go in trash in Dead of winter?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32077" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32081" CreationDate="2016-08-14T20:02:42.407" Score="1" ViewCount="6950" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if a location is overrun. Can you go back to the location or is it closed forever since it is filled with zombies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18068" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T20:54:04.430" Title="Overrun place locked in Dead of winter?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32078" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32079" CreationDate="2016-08-14T20:14:50.310" Score="4" ViewCount="490" Body="&lt;p&gt;A buddy of mine and I had a small debate on the soon mentioned situation and I'm curious if I may have screwed him over on a misunderstanding of how the stack works. Consider the following situation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I attack with a X/X creature that my opponent can't block. After attackers/blockers have been declared, my opponent casts &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=409777&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Silverstrike&lt;/a&gt; and then I respond something like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=398648&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Titanic Growth&lt;/a&gt; (as an example), and it contains the key phrase &quot;&lt;em&gt;...until end of turn&lt;/em&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a legal response? My line of thought is that my instant will resolve at &quot;end of turn&quot; which will allow his to resolve then killing my creature. Or is it that what I did made no difference and it resolves right away allowing his instant to resolve still killing mine before I can attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18072" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T22:11:08.210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T22:13:10.883" Title="Which Order Cards Resolve from Stack - MTG" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32079" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32078" CreationDate="2016-08-14T20:42:35.230" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts Silverstrike targeting your creature.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Titanic Growth.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Titanic Growth resolves, giving your creature +4/+4 until end of turn.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Silverstrike resolves and destroys your creature.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Damage happens but there are no creatures to deal damage anymore.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Until end of turn&quot; just means that the effect of the spell, in this case +4/+4, remains until the end of the turn.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;405.5. When all players pass in succession, the top (last-added) spell or ability on the stack resolves. If the stack is empty when all players pass, the current step or phase ends and the next begins.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this rule you can see that the next step, combat damage, will only happen after the full stack is resolved, including the Silverstrike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-08-14T22:13:10.883" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T22:13:10.883" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32074" CreationDate="2016-08-14T22:38:05.747" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, every card that you would put in the waste pule says for it to be placed in the waste pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good example of this is resolving a crisis as you don't add those cards to the waste pile when you are done. Here is the online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/dead-of-winter/rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Resolve Crisis: Shuffle the cards that were added face-down&#xA;  to the crisis during the player turns phase. Reveal them&#xA;  one at a time. Each item card added that has a symbol&#xA;  matching a symbol in the prevent section of the crisis&#xA;  is worth 1 point. Each card that doesn’t have a symbol&#xA;  matching a symbol in the prevent section of the crisis&#xA;  subtracts 1 point. After revealing all of the cards, if&#xA;  the combined point total is lower than the number&#xA;  of players then immediately resolve the crisis. If the&#xA;  point total equals or exceeds the number of players&#xA;  the crisis is prevented. Additionally, if the point total&#xA;  exceeds the number of players by 2 or more the colony&#xA;  gains 1 morale. After resolving the crisis, remove all&#xA;  cards added to the crisis from the game. See Example:&#xA;  Resolving a Crisis to lef&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T22:38:05.747" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32077" CreationDate="2016-08-14T23:22:37.170" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;When zombies overrun a location each zombie that overruns kills a survivor that is at the location. What the means is that even if all the places for zombies are filled you can still go back there to try and do something but unless you kill some zombies any that get added will kill the survivors at the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.plaidhatgames.com/images/games/dead-of-winter/rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever adding zombies, they are added 1 at a time until&#xA;  all zombies that need to be added have been added.&#xA;  When adding zombies to the colony, always place the first&#xA;  zombie on any empty space in entrance 1, the second zombie&#xA;  on any empty space in entrance 2, the third zombie on any&#xA;  empty space in entrance 3, etc. until all of the zombies that&#xA;  need to be added have been placed. When adding a seventh&#xA;  zombie, place it on any empty space in entrance 1 again, an&#xA;  eighth zombie on any empty space in entrance 2, etc. If there&#xA;  are no empty entrance spaces in the entrance the zombie&#xA;  would be placed but there is a barricade token in one of&#xA;  those spaces, destroy that barricade token and remove the&#xA;  zombie that would have been placed. If there are no empty&#xA;  spaces and no barricade tokens, the entrance has been&#xA;  overrun, remove that zombie and kill the survivor at the&#xA;  colony that has the lowest influence value. If there are only&#xA;  helpless survivors at the colony, kill a helpless survivor. If&#xA;  there are no survivors at the colony remove the zombie that&#xA;  would have been placed without further effect. Every time a&#xA;  survivor is killed (including a helpless survivor), decrease&#xA;  morale by 1. When adding zombies to non-colony locations&#xA;  follow all of the same rules, except there is only 1 entrance to&#xA;  place zombies in so all of the zombies are placed in spaces at&#xA;  that entrance. See Example: Adding Zombies to right.&#xA;  In the rare case that players ever have to&#xA;  add zombies and there are no more zombie&#xA;  standees left, use the zombie tokens included&#xA;  in the game to add the additional zombies &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-08-14T23:22:37.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32091" CreationDate="2016-08-15T03:55:40.853" Score="6" ViewCount="502" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Egyptian Rat Screw for years, and I've encountered one major discrepancy in the way others play compared to how I do. The combinations that were grounds to slap that I learned were -&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Double&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Two of the same card in a row.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Sandwich&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Two of the same cards with a different card in between. Ex.2,3,2.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Joker&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Any joker on the field.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Straight&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;Four cards in order ascending or descending, excluding face cards or aces.&lt;/em&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Marriage&lt;/strong&gt;: &lt;em&gt;King and a queen next to each other.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everyone I've played with who knew this game prior to me showing them played without the marriage. I've wondered for some time whether it was a valid part of the game. Does anyone know definitively? Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18075" LastActivityDate="2019-08-20T13:14:11.577" Title="Does Classic Egyptian Rat Screw have Marriages?" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31818" CreationDate="2016-08-15T04:41:53.070" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Teaching games is something of a art, that you'll get better at with more practise. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You're right that explaining things in certain ways can lead to more confusion that it's worth. To mitigate this I suggest explaining any in the following structure: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;0. Setup.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend giving new players the simpler wonders. The gold one, the points one, or the military one are the best. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Thematic introduction.&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;In this game, we each the ruler of an ancient city, competing to build the most glorious city the world.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's your chance to be creative, and have fun. You're selling the game to your friends, and setting the scene. The one important thing you're doing is &lt;em&gt;telling your friends what the game is about&lt;/em&gt; - in this case - you're building a city. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Game objective, and larger game structure&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;The game is played over three ages, represented by these three decks. At the end of the third age, all points are tallied, and the person with the most points is the winner.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important things to highlight here are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Winning condition. In this case earning the most points. In other games, it's the last person standing, or to go out first, for example. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game end condition. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3. How to achieve game objective&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The previous step immediately begs a question - &#xA;'just how do we earn points?'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;There are several ways to earn points.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find the best way to explain all the different ways to get points, is to go over &lt;em&gt;the scoring card&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAifT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/WAifT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I'll go over these quickly now, and more detail later&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Red is for military victories. At the end of each age (remember there are three), each person will battle their immediate neighbour, and the person with the highest military strength will earn points. Military strength is earned by building red cards, like this one. [Explain military points structure]. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Coins. Every three coins left over at the end of the game is worth one point. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Wonders. Some of you can earn points from building your wonder. For example you can earn x points. You can earn y points. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Blues. The blue civic structures are purely for points, as denoted on the cards. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yellows. Some yellow cards can provide points, but these tend to a be a minor bonus. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Purples. In age three is the presences of purple &lt;em&gt;guilds&lt;/em&gt;, which give bonuses for other people are built. For example this card would... &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Greens. There are green technology cards throughout the deck. [Explain green scoring. Perhaps refer to the scoring sheet to show how points are counted horizontally and vertically]. You can potentially earn a lot of points through technology - for example if you got three of each you world earn 21+ 27 = 48 points. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4. Turn structure.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;At the start of each age, we'll start with a hand of seven cards. Each turn, we'll &lt;em&gt;all&lt;/em&gt; select a card and play it face down in front of us. Note that we all play simultaneously!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We then choose one of three actions to do with the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play it face up in front of our board, and pay the construction cost, to build that as part of a city. Note that you're only allowed to build each building once. You're not allowed two temples for example. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Play it face down on the bottom edge of board, and pay the wonder construction cost, to build that stage of the wonder. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trash the card, and receive three coins. Note that if you select a card that you're unable to pay construction costs for, you're forced to trash the card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all the construction costs are resolved, we then pass the hand to left.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This leads well in to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5. Construction costs&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note each card has a construction cost. For example this one here requires paying one gold into the middle, these (simple browns) have no cost, this one here requires two stone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two cards that provide resources - browns and greys. Browns provide basic resources, and greys provide secondary resources. You typically only need one of each of the secondary resources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some yellow cards also provide resources. [Point them out]. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So let's say I have these two browns providing stone already built, I can build this card because I have the required resource. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also - that each of us is already building one resource on our wonder card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When building your wonder, you similarly pay construction costs, as denoted on your wonder card. Note that the Age the game is in doesn't matter for building your wonder. You can build them all in Age I or all in Age III, it doesn't matter. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6. Trade.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now lets say only I have one stone, but my neighbour Jim here has the other stone. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can buy that stone from Jim for two coins. I simply put two coins on his wonder card. Note that you don't require permission to buy someone's resource and you can't stop someone buying your resources. Note also that you're only allowed to buy resources from your neighbours. Also note that my buying Jim's resource doesn't prevent Jim from also using that resource, and vice versa. Also you can only buy resources provided by browns and greys. You can't buy resources provided by yellows or wonders. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cards the make the resource buying cheaper. [Point our trading posts]. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7. Upgrades&lt;/strong&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Some cards can be built for free, if you have build the prerequisite building. For example [who an example Age II card], this building I can either pay the construction cost of xyz, or if I have already built the [Baths/etc] then I get this building for free. Note here on the bottom right of the Baths card, that this shows me which buildings I can build for free. &quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8. End of Age.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After we've played the sixth card each, the seventh card is discarded, and then we resolve military victories. The next Age we pass cards in reverse order. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9. Final notes and reminders.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Do a quick scan over all the decks to show people what to expect. Point out the cards that give you gold for neighbour's buildings. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't build the same building twice. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can't buy resources from the bank. You or your neighbours have to be producing it. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't have to build your wonder. Treat building your wonder just like building another card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;If there's any cards that you're not sure what it does, just show it to me and I'll explain it.&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note - note that games usually seem more complicated explaining them than they are playing them. But it is best to give a comprehensive explanation upfront, and then people will usually understand it by the end of the first game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastEditorUserId="7687" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T04:47:05.493" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T04:47:05.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32085" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32150" CreationDate="2016-08-15T12:08:07.153" Score="4" ViewCount="487" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm planning on building a team of blockers and one runner in Blood Bowl. This is my team:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 blockers (Block, Tackle, Thick Skull) @70k each = 700k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 runner (Sure Hands, Thick Skull) @80k = 80k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 re-rolls @40k each = 200k&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My reasoning is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dwarf blockers start with lots of great skills and form a cage well&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I only need 1 runner, as passing is hard for dwarves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The troll slayers and deathroller are too unreliable due to frenzy/being sent off at the end of a drive respectively&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Blitzers don't have tackle&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, &lt;strong&gt;is this a competitive build?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PS. I'm new to Blood Bowl. I've played half a dozen games using &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bloodbowlonline.com/LivingRulebook5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Living Rulebook 5&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user10232" LastEditorDisplayName="user10232" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T12:38:58.807" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T17:37:40.830" Title="Blood Bowl: Would a Dwarf team of mostly blockers be feasible?" Tags="|blood-bowl|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32086" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32082" CreationDate="2016-08-15T12:51:26.210" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I learned this game probably around 20 years ago, and have never heard of anyone playing with Marriages, or Straights for that matter. But hey, if you enjoy it, there's no reason why you can't play with those rules. I don't think Egyptian Rat Screw is really a game with a &quot;definitive&quot; rule set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T12:51:26.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32088" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32089" CreationDate="2016-08-15T17:50:43.427" Score="11" ViewCount="4139" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I had a very long (and incredibly close) Commander duel last night which I barely won, and one of many crucial moments hinged on a counterspell I used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend and I both are basically out of creatures.  They cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=253633&quot;&gt;Jarad's Orders&lt;/a&gt;, and search their library for two creatures.  They decide on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSheoldred%2c%20Whispering%20One%5d&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt; and another creature, and want Sheoldred to enter the battlefield, so they can retrieve the other later.  I have plenty of swamps, so obviously I am displeased with this.  In response, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCountersquall%5d&quot;&gt;Countersquall&lt;/a&gt;  &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; they have chosen the creatures, revealed them, and decided where they were going.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was this incorrect?  Was it too late at that point for me to do something about it?  Because honestly, were it not for that counter, I might very well have lost.  I got wrecked in the previous two matches we had so I don't feel &lt;em&gt;too&lt;/em&gt; bad, but I want to be upfront with them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you for any help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18078" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-15T17:54:24.143" LastActivityDate="2022-03-03T14:09:29.417" Title="In MTG, can you counter a spell that requires cards to be revealed after they are revealed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32089" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32088" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:03:31.077" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;This was incorrect. When a player casts a spell, it goes on the stack, and then each player has a chance to respond to it by casting other things, such as Countersquall, before the spell resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When both players pass, then the top spell of the stack resolves, which is when you follow the instructions on the card*. So by the time your opponent was searching for cards, you would have had to already passed and chosen not to respond to or counter Jarad's Orders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*To add some details for full accuracy: There are some instructions on cards that come into play before a card resolves. Especially:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Additional or alternate costs - Some cards have additional costs for casting;  in the case of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Draconic%20Roar&quot;&gt;Draconic Roar&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; reveal the card as part of casting the spell, before it resolves. This is because it's part of the &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Targets - You choose all targets for a spell as part of the casting process. So if your opponent casts a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Lightning%20Bolt&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;, you will know what he is trying to do damage to before you decide if you want to counter it or not. But note that the cards found with Jarad's Orders were not targets, because the card doesn't use the word &amp;quot;target&amp;quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Modes - For cards that have multiple options of how they can be used, this choice is made while casting the spell. See &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Healing%20Salve&quot;&gt;Healing Salve&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2022-03-03T14:09:29.417" LastActivityDate="2022-03-03T14:09:29.417" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32090" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32088" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:09:55.927" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot cast spell or activate abilities during the resolution of a spell or ability unless the spell or ability tells you to cast a spell or it requires you to pay mana (and then you can only activate mana abilities).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Magic has a system called priority that determines if you can cast a spell, and no player gains priority during the resolution of another spell. (Rule 116.3 explains how a player gets priority)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2f&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect gives a player the option to pay mana, he or she may activate mana abilities before taking that action. If an effect specifically instructs or allows a player to cast a spell during resolution, he or she does so by following the steps in rules 601.2a–i, except no player receives priority after it’s cast. That spell becomes the topmost object on the stack, and the currently resolving spell or ability continues to resolve, which may include casting other spells this way. &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No other spells can normally be cast and no other abilities can normally be activated during resolution.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Unless a spell or ability is instructing a player to take an action, which player can take actions at any given time is determined by a system of priority. The player with priority may cast spells, activate abilities, and take special actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:09:55.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32082" CreationDate="2016-08-15T18:28:56.573" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the revised 2001 edition of &lt;em&gt;Hoyle's Rules of Games&lt;/em&gt; by  Albert Morehead, Geoffrey Mott-Smith, Philip D. Morehead there is no mention of marriages and also some discrepancies with the &quot;standard rules&quot; you and every player I've encountered myself know today. However the latest (at time of writing) version of &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Egyptian_Ratscrew&amp;amp;oldid=733346681&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Wikipedia page for the game&lt;/a&gt; does mention it. When one examines the edit history however, the initially created page has no mention of marriages. After viewing the edit history I found what I believe to be the first mention of marriages on the page on &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Egyptian_Ratscrew&amp;amp;oldid=391731230&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the version published at 22:45, 19 October 2010&lt;/a&gt; under the heading of &quot;Rule Variations&quot;. The page has been massively reformatted and altered many times since and the mention of marriages has come and gone throughout these many edits. Since I cannot access the other referenced source on the current page, &lt;em&gt;Encyclopedia of Play in Today's Society, Volume 1.&lt;/em&gt; by Rodney P. Carlisle, I cannot conclude whether or not it makes any mention of the marriage rules especially since the Wikipedia page's rules section does not specify from which references they are drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;While this is purely speculation given that I cannot find a conclusive source, my best guess would be that these rules are either a regional or group-specific variant. This isn't uncommon for playing card games since there are even games based off of this phenomenon such as Mao. Since it does seem to be an ongoing debate whether to include it on the Wikipedia page or not, I think it's safe to assume that it is at least a pretty well known variant of the game.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: Both Wikipedia links are to specific timestamped versions of the pages, this is done in case future versions (yet again) drop the mention of marriages.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8569" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T18:28:56.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32092" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32088" CreationDate="2016-08-15T19:05:22.893" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I originally made false assumptions... since I believe such mistakes may be easily made, I'm going to update my original response with strikethroughs  and add comments in bold to show where I\others may go wrong...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I see it in the current &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/gameinfo/gameplay/formats/comprehensiverules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rulebook&lt;/a&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;601.2 is the casting process.  The keys:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt; The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;601.2h&lt;/strong&gt; The player pays the total cost in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So indeed, if you couldn't wait until after targets were selected, you'd have to counter the spell BEFORE mana was paid!?!  Not how I've ever seen it done.  &lt;strong&gt;Technically true, but there's a key word that explains why this doesn't work as I expected when writing this...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the clarity continues further:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.4a To cast a spell is to take it from the zone it’s in (usually the hand), put it on the stack, and pay its costs, so that it will&#xA;  eventually resolve and have its effect. A player may cast a spell if&#xA;  he or she has priority. See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As diego's answers seems to allude to, &lt;s&gt; no one has priority to act after the spell is initially cast into the stack... indeed the opponent could add other instants first if they wanted to.&lt;/s&gt;  But you have the right to cast your counterspell onto the stack as you wish before it does resolve.  **Rule 601.2i shows the caster has priority first after the initial cast.  If they do not add anything to the stack, then the other player has the option to do so (see passing priority in 116.3d).  I don't imagine this affects things a lot, but not knowing what cards there are now, could be entirely wrong!  Still not sure what priority would have to do with this scenario, but I was wrong in my explanation.*&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Perhaps confusingly, casting is just the initial act, and the stack goes on from there, allowing additional spells, including counterspells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.5a To counter a spell or ability means to cancel it, removing it from the stack. It doesn’t resolve and none of its effects occur. A&#xA;  countered spell is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that if it removes it from the stack, it must already be in the stack, which means it must already be &quot;cast&quot;, which means all of 601.2 took place first, including selecting targets.  It thus appears based upon how WOC has defined cast (as just the initial declaration process) that it is impossible to prevent casting, which, at least for an old player like me, that seems would cause unexpected effects, as many cards might activate even if the spell is countered (or perhaps they've cleaned up the rules\writings since the era I played in... which indeed even included a separate category called interrupts for counterspells.  So perhaps my concerns on card language have been taken care of.).  &lt;strong&gt;Again, appears all this is true... but there's an additional term which I faltered at in my understanding throughout...&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But further evidence of the process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.5b&lt;/strong&gt; The player who cast a countered spell or activated a countered ability doesn’t get a “refund” of any costs that were paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since targeting takes place BEFORE paying cost, indeed you counter later.  &lt;strong&gt;Again true.  But need to properly understand those terms&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see nothing odd in the wording of Jarad's Orders, &lt;s&gt;the cards appear to be the target.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If that's so, then it's clear.  Just as DavidZ and Hackworth suggested in the linked similar question given (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/11021/at-what-point-does-a-spell-target-its-target&quot;&gt;At what point does a spell &amp;#39;target&amp;#39; its target?&lt;/a&gt;).  Targeting is one of the initial actions of just commencing casting (before mana is even paid), and so countering not only can be done later... but MUST properly wait until after targeting.  &lt;s&gt;And you were entirely correct in doing what you did.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Resolution:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;What I'd failed to understand was the term &lt;strong&gt;target&lt;/strong&gt;.  I had assumed that whatever a card was directed towards was the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that is entirely NOT true.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.9a Just because an object or player is being affected by a spell or ability doesn’t make that object or player a target of that spell&#xA;  or ability. Unless that object or player is identified by the word&#xA;  “target” in the text of that spell or ability, or the rule for that&#xA;  keyword ability, it’s not a target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.9. Spells and abilities can affect objects and players they don’t target. In general, those objects and players aren’t chosen until the&#xA;  spell or ability resolves. See rule 608, “Resolving Spells and&#xA;  Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So MTG has a specific meaning of the word target, and only cards explicitly using the word TARGET must choose the intentions of the spell before the counterspell opportunity.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because Jarad's Orders doesn't say target, you cannot wait until after he chooses (after resolution) to counter.  &lt;strong&gt;Your play was not allowed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Word meaning has gotten so complex these days!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18058" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-15T23:15:12.367" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32095" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T00:06:00.787" Score="5" ViewCount="22419" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've noticed that while playing Uno with friends we had a situation that came up that I am not 100% sure with, again we are playing &lt;strong&gt;official&lt;/strong&gt; rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the first card off the top of the deck is a wild card, I understand the person to the left of the dealer chooses a colour but does he/she also place/draw a card in the same turn or is it up to the player next to him/her?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18085" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T00:48:07.250" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T15:31:18.580" Title="If the starting card is a Wild, does the starting player still play after picking a color?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7702" CreationDate="2016-08-16T01:28:18.040" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://wp.devir.es/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Catan-ManualDeLosColonos-Reglas.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this link&lt;/a&gt; you can find the manual provided by Devir, the Spanish publisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18086" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T01:28:18.040" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32097" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23228" CreationDate="2016-08-16T02:25:28.530" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Why would you expect to randomly find a rubber duck in a dungeon?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's right, you wouldn't.  There must be a REASON it's there... and can you imagine any good reason for a rubber duck to be in a dungeon?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Right, exactly.  Of course not.  Therefore, it's been put there by someone or someTHING.  That's never a good sign in a dungeon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, finding a rubber duck in a dungeon is a sign of Very Bad Things.  You &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; know better than to pick it up. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18087" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T02:25:28.530" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32098" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T04:44:10.540" Score="2" ViewCount="585" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClone%20Legion%5d&quot;&gt;Clone Legion&lt;/a&gt; on my opponent. He has 4 creatures, one of which is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDeathbringer%20Regent%5d&quot;&gt;Deathbringer Regent&lt;/a&gt;. Do I get to have all 4 creatures, or do I get all 4, but deathbringer wipes out the 3 others so at the end, I only have deathbringer? I would assume all enter the battlefield at the same time, and thus deathbringer does not wipe those 3 - and thus, I'm left with 4 creatures, not one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18089" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T05:17:15.420" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T12:12:18.210" Title="Clone legion - multiple creatures enter battlefield at same time" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32098" CreationDate="2016-08-16T05:27:36.383" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Deathbringer Regent won't do anything for you, but not because of timing &amp;mdash; it does nothing because its ability only functions &quot;if you cast (this card) from your hand&quot;, which you didn't do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClone%20Legion%5d&quot;&gt;Clone Legion&lt;/a&gt;, which created a token copy of Deathbringer Regent. That copy checks to see if it was cast from your hand, recognises it's never been in your hand and was never cast because it simply winked into existence on the battlefield a moment ago, and therefore its ability doesn't trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that this is because it's a token copy. A card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClone%5d&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; copying Deathbringer Regent would behave &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; like the real deal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's pretend it would trigger though (it wouldn't) and examine the timing: Deathbringer Regent &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; enter the battlefield simultaneously with the other creatures, and it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; also wipe them all out. This is because they all first enter the battlefield, &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; we check triggered abilities (the ones that start with &quot;when...&quot; or &quot;whenever...&quot;) and put those on the stack. Deathbringer Regent and all the other creatures enter, then we check its ability, put that on the stack, and then it'll shortly afterwards resolve &amp;mdash; and all other creatures on the battlefield would be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T12:12:18.210" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T12:12:18.210" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32100" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-16T09:39:25.350" Score="8" ViewCount="10187" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens If you challenge a player who say nominates red with his/her wild draw 4 card and you challenge successfully, then the person who played the card would pick up 4 cards instead of you. My question is, does the colour stay as red in this situation or to the colour just before it was reds?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18085" LastEditorUserId="3212" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T00:47:12.917" LastActivityDate="2019-04-02T02:04:55.343" Title="What happens to the current color when you successfully challenge a Wild Draw 4?" Tags="|uno|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32101" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32100" CreationDate="2016-08-16T13:01:54.957" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The person who willfully plays a wild draw 4 card to change the color when they had an obvious card to play, is to discard their hand and go watch TV or something, as they have broken the first rule of playing games: No cheaters.  Uno is not a bluffing game, and cheating is not expected or tolerated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;--But perhaps I'm being a bit sensitive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, we usually just have the miscreant pick up their wild and play the appropriate card, as our rule breakers are normally the younger kids who didn't recognize the valid card to play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Edit)&#xA;The rules stat that if challenged, and player had a valid card to play, they forfeit their turn.  I don't see any rule addressing what happens to the Wild+Draw 4.  But if a player has to forfeit their turn, I would think that you would continue play and their card was never played. They would need to pick it up, since they can't play any cards.. they forfeited.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17895" LastEditorUserId="17895" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T17:37:14.450" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T17:37:14.450" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32102" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3414" CreationDate="2016-08-16T14:05:03.027" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Be sure to know the combo decks. I have played several games of dominion and dominion online, and there is nothing more fun, and more crushingly victorious, than when you drop a turn 13-ish combo that buys out the provinces in one fell swoop. It is relatively rare that these combos will come up in a kingdom set, but in order to not be a &quot;noob,&quot; you need to be aware of them and how to beat them or they will blindside you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A good wiki for researching these combos and anything else about dominion is &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;wiki.dominionstrategy.com&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18096" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T14:33:43.150" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T14:33:43.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32103" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-16T17:28:21.163" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Blood Bowl is a football game in a fantasy setting where players can attack the other team.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.thenaf.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/CRP1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt; have evolved over time with the involvement of an active league and tournament community.  &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blood_Bowl&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt; has an excellent article.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13207" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T07:20:26.120" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T07:20:26.120" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32104" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-16T17:28:21.163" Score="0" Body="A card game where players create football teams using fantasy races, working over the course of a season to beat other teams.  " OwnerUserId="13207" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T17:39:27.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T17:39:27.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32105" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32106" CreationDate="2016-08-16T19:36:05.880" Score="11" ViewCount="1393" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many cards can I hold? Normally, I'd have 7, but card text trumps rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my field, I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNull%20Profusion%5d&quot;&gt;Null Profusion&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKruphix%2c%20God%20of%20Horizons%5d&quot;&gt;Kruphix, God of Horizons&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wzHn.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/7wzHn.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Null Profusion&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8M2k.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/X8M2k.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Kruphix, God of Horizons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-16T19:43:50.603" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T20:09:11.387" Title="How many cards can I hold? (How do conflicting effects work?)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32105" CreationDate="2016-08-16T19:39:20.170" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends, whichever one entered the battlefield last is the one that takes effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a permanent enters the battlefield it receives a timestamp. Then when determining the result of continuous effects (the kind generated by both Kruphix and Null Profusion) you apply them in timestamp order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if the Profusion entered last you will have a max hand size of 2, and if Kruphix entered last you won't have a maximum hand size. If they were to enter the battlefield at the same time then the Active Player (the player whose turn it currently is) decides what the order of the timestamps is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6c&lt;/strong&gt; An object receives a timestamp at the time it enters a zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6j&lt;/strong&gt; If two or more objects would receive a timestamp simultaneously, such as by entering a zone simultaneously or becoming attached simultaneously, the active player determines their relative timestamp order at that time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.10.&lt;/strong&gt; Some continuous effects affect game rules rather than objects. For example, effects may modify a player’s maximum hand size, or say that a creature must attack this turn if able. These effects are applied after all other continuous effects have been applied. Continuous effects that affect the costs of spells or abilities are applied according to the order specified in rule 601.2f. All other such effects are applied in timestamp order. See also the rules for timestamp order and dependency (rules 613.6 and 613.7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T20:04:28.317" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32107" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32105" CreationDate="2016-08-16T20:09:11.387" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on what order they entered the battlefield. Rule 613.10 says that we apply game rule-changing effects in timestamp order. Rule 613.6 explains how timestamps work. Whichever entered the battlefield later[1] has the later timestamp, which applies second and overrides the earlier effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.10&lt;/strong&gt;. Some continuous effects affect game rules rather than objects. For example, effects may modify a player’s maximum hand size, or say that a creature must attack this turn if able. These effects are applied after all other continuous effects have been applied. Continuous effects that affect the costs of spells or abilities are applied according to the order specified in rule 601.2f. All other such effects are applied in timestamp order. See also the rules for timestamp order and dependency (rules 613.6 and 613.7).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6&lt;/strong&gt;. Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[1] Technically, there are ways to &amp;quot;refresh&amp;quot; the timestamp of a permanent, so the order they entered the battlefield is not always the same as their timestamp order, but none of those ways applies in the situation as described.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-16T20:09:11.387" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32109" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32053" CreationDate="2016-08-17T01:14:25.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither a &quot;jump shift&quot; nor a &quot;jump raise&quot; are pre-emptive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since your partner's bid was in a new suit, and &quot;one more than necessary,&quot; it was a &quot;jump shift&quot; that showed more than a minimum opening hand; at least 15-16 high card points. Opposite a minimum opening hand, it is good for a minor suit game if you can find a fit. If you similarly have a &quot;more than a minimum opening&quot; with at least 15-16, the two of you are close to the slam zone with a minimum of 30-32. Then the viability of a slam depends on &quot;extras&quot; such as &quot;controls,&quot; short and long suits,  extra trumps (above eight), or extra strength (above 15-16) in at least one hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;jump raise&quot; from one to three &lt;em&gt;clubs&lt;/em&gt; is a &quot;limit raise&quot; showing just below a minimum opening hand, say 10-12 points. Opposite a minimum opening hand, it means that you and partner have at least 22-24 points so it is not predominantly pre-emptive. It does, however have some pre-emptive value, insofar as it prevents opponents from &quot;reopening&quot; a higher ranked suit with 17 points between them at the one or two level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T01:14:25.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24200" CreationDate="2016-08-17T04:35:14.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm back with &lt;strong&gt;329&lt;/strong&gt; in a &lt;em&gt;7-player leaders, cities, wonderpack, promo leader game&lt;/em&gt;. No science used!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wonders used are Great Wall (B) Left, Byzantium (B) West, Manneken Pis (B) You, Roma (B) East and Babylon (B) Right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A summary of the points are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Military - 18 - from 1 Shield provided by Manneken Pis in Age I&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Coins - 77 - finish with 231 coins from neighbours purchasing from you (3 of each basic resource) and generating through Diocletian and straight money cards&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wonder - 7 - from first stage on Manneken Pis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Civilian - 5 - from Age II Aqueduct&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Science - 0&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Guilds - 107 - 18 from Architects, 12 from Craftsmen and 77 from Gamers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Leaders - 77 - all from Midas&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cities - 38 - 23 printed vps, 6 from 6 military tokens and 9 from 9 Cities cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The full log of what is played each turn and how the money flows is in the picture below. I needed to included the Left and Right players to ensure there was enough money to flow eventually to you. Hopefully there are no mistakes, however happy to get corrections and/or improvements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enjoy! Brett.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3GNM9.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3GNM9.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12810" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T04:35:14.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32111" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31685" CreationDate="2016-08-17T09:08:51.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playability of a word indicates how useful it is to know a word in a Scrabble game because it is likely to be playable as the best move in a particular situation. It is measured by how much worse off you are if you don't know that word. The difference in equity point between that word and the next best play (i.e. equity loss) is tallied over many games to calculate its playability score; the higher the better. (For an explanation on equity loss, see my other answer &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/14808/how-can-i-best-assess-the-quality-of-a-game-of-scrabble/23002#23002&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;See here for further explanation &lt;a href=&quot;http://crosstables.livejournal.com/24367.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://crosstables.livejournal.com/24367.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking your Q example, it's easier to understand the concept from the reverse angle: your Q will be unplayable if you don't know QIN and it will severely hamper you (i.e. big equity loss), so QIN has high playability score. On the other hand, not knowing ERE is not as bad if you know RE (for example), so even if that situation happens more often, the cumulative effect will not be as bad as that one time you had Q and don't know QIN, hence the lower playability score of ERE.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing to note is that words with more anagrams tend to have lower playability score. Take the highly valued RETINAS rack, high in probability and (deservedly) must be learnt. However RETINAS itself has low playability score, because most likely most of the time if you don't know RETINAS but you know RETAINS (or any of the other anagrams) and the other anagram can be played, no big damage done and equity loss is small.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10178" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T09:08:51.820" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32095" CreationDate="2016-08-17T13:37:08.260" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.unorules.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.unorules.com/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the first card turned up from the Draw Pile (to form the Discard&#xA;  Pile) is an Action card, the Action from that card applies and must be&#xA;  carried out. The exceptions are if the Wild or Wild Draw Four cards&#xA;  are turned up, in which case – Return them to the Draw Pile, shuffle&#xA;  them, and turn over a new card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3493" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T13:37:08.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32113" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32114" CreationDate="2016-08-17T14:22:52.547" Score="5" ViewCount="372" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYNiq.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYNiq.png&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMunda%2c%20Ambush%20Leader%5d&quot;&gt;Munda, Ambush Leader&lt;/a&gt; and choose to look at the top four cards of my library, do I need to reveal all ally cards, or can I choose which ally cards I reveal and put the rest beneath my library?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastEditorUserId="13631" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T03:47:56.260" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T03:47:56.260" Title="Do I have to reveal all allies found by Munda, Ambush Leader?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32113" CreationDate="2016-08-17T14:25:59.650" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You choose which ally cards you reveal. The text on the card says &quot;Reveal any number of Ally cards from among them&quot;. &quot;Any number&quot; means you can choose to reveal 0, 1, 2, 3 etc Ally cards. And all the revealed cards are put on top of your library in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that MTG never has instructions long the lines of &quot;Reveal all Ally cards in your hand&quot;, because if you had 4 Ally cards but only revealed 3, your opponent couldn't have any way of knowing that you didn't reveal them all. MTG never requires &quot;trust&quot; in that way. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-08-17T17:30:10.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T17:30:10.177" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32095" CreationDate="2016-08-17T15:07:23.887" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/us/productDetail.aspx?prodno=41940&amp;amp;siteid=27&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;latest rules&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Wild Card -&lt;/strong&gt; ... If this card is turned up at the beginning of play, the person to the left of the dealer chooses the color to begin play &lt;em&gt;and plays the first card&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule has been in place for a while, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8442/what-rules-changes-have-there-been-in-uno&quot;&gt;What rules changes have there been in Uno?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="40" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T15:31:18.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32116" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29852" CreationDate="2016-08-17T16:56:45.790" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Late comer to this thread. I think I have found a fundamental flaw in both question and answer. When your friend's card asks for the name of a card it's asking for the actual &quot;Name&quot; of the card such as &quot;Devilhorn Fox&quot;, &quot;Vengeful Pharaoh&quot; or &quot;Macarbre Waltz&quot;. The part a the very top of the card and it has to be exactly the same name name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if your friend said &quot;I ban the use of a card called &quot;Zombie&quot; and you have a card called &quot;Zombie Initiate&quot; you can still use it becuse it is not named &quot;Zombie&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now there's something else I would like to mention in the spirit of fair play. It seems from the information in your query that if he says &quot;Zombie&quot; you seem to think you can't play any Zombie creatuures. This is incorect. If the card's effect was &quot;name a card type and sub-Type&quot; annd he declared &quot;Creature - Zombie&quot; then you couldn't play zombie creatures for as long as that card effect was active. but the effect is targetting the card's &quot;Name&quot; only so having the name appearanywhere else in card has no bearing whatsoever on the card's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So his card can't stop you playing zombie creatures just because he says zombie. it has to be in the card's name box at the top of the card. so I hope that cleats up your problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18104" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T16:56:45.790" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31818" CreationDate="2016-08-17T21:59:53.337" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I prefer to start upfront with what a turn looks like, so people feel like they can get started.  They don't have to play perfectly or understand everything the first time through, they just have to make legal pays that feel like they are making some progress.  Which in 7 Wonders, they will, because they are going to have a big pile of cards in front of them at the end of the game.  And I tell people that we can play again right after, and it will go much quicker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I start with victory points, so they know the overall goal of the game, then I say &quot;The basic mechanic of this game is card drafting. You'll get a pile of cards, and pick one, and pass the rest on.  On your turn, you either throw the card in for 3 coins, play it and show that you can meet the costs, or build a level of your wonder, showing that you can meet those costs.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I start explaining all the types of cards.  The yellow ones I usually explain as people stumble onto them, rather than explaining all of them up front. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I explain costs, where to see the cost, and paying your neighbor for his resources (&quot;You just drop two coins on their board.  They can't refuse, your using a resource doesn't affect them in any way at all, you can't buy more of a resource than they have displayed&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then I explain everyone's Wonders, and advise people that if they don't know what to do, they should try and get resources to build their Wonder stages, and they should look at their neighbor, to see how much their neighbor will help.  And I advise things like &quot;Well, since HER neighbor has paper already, she's not going to build paper herself. So you need paper early, you should probably not pass it on, but build it yourself.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And I remind people at the beginning of the second age that there are no resource cards in the third age, so they can't let something crucial to their Wonder pass.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3534" LastActivityDate="2016-08-17T21:59:53.337" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32062" CreationDate="2016-08-18T02:01:18.657" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the &quot;G&quot; pack exists, as well as the &quot;WM&quot; (World Championship Deck&quot;), France deck, and a few others. The most solid, &quot;balanced&quot; decks IMO are the WM and G decks respectively. They can be purchased online from re-sellers like amazon and such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are, however, not in print anymore as far as I know as the Anniversary Collectors edition is due to come out late 2017 with 1000 or so cards that are a combination of all of the current decks in existence, as well as some that are being made to plug in the gaps. That version is going to be for the dedicated type of crowd. There is also a version that &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; came out with 96 cards that is more of a casual type of crowd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://play-agricola.com/forums/index.php?topic=4507.0&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;More info can be found here&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T02:01:18.657" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32119" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-18T03:13:03.857" Score="-1" ViewCount="95" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing 2 over 1 where a responders bid of 2 in a new suit shows 13 or more points (we open with 12 points) and is game forcing then a 1NT response to a Major opening by partner would show upto 12 points (is that right?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And to a 1 of a minor opening bid it would show upto 10 points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the bidding goes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N    E    S   W&#xA;1H/S  P   1NT  P ... 1NT bid shows up to 12 points and is one round forcing ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1d/c  P   1NT  P ... 1NT bid shows up to 10 points and is NOT forcing ? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you tell when a responder is using a 6-9 point non-forcing 1NT versus a 6-12 point forcing 1NT?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T02:41:09.027" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T02:41:09.027" Title="Bridge - Standard American" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-08-21T00:26:10.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13888" CreationDate="2016-08-18T03:22:00.220" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think New Minor Force is the best bid to go with i.e 1D which clearly tells partner that I have a 5 carder heart, do you have 3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T03:22:00.220" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32122" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:08:03.710" Score="0" ViewCount="555" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/%22Legend_rule%22&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legend Rule&lt;/a&gt; states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player controls two or more legendary permanents with the same&#xA;  name, that player chooses one of them, and the rest are put into their&#xA;  owners' graveyards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaoT7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CaoT7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is just a rule clarification so my brother believes me, but is everything listed below legal?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tap Tamiyo's Journal and sacrifice three clues to find another Tamiyo's&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;play it for 5 mana and put the tapped Tamiyo's into the graveyard&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;tap the untapped Tamiyos and sacrifice three more clues&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-01-22T12:06:19.900" LastActivityDate="2020-01-22T12:06:19.900" Title="Tamiyo's Journal and the Legend Rule" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-legendary-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32121" CreationDate="2016-08-18T04:27:53.817" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that's perfectly legal, assuming that you started with 6 clue tokens. Hard to point to a specific rule saying so, but there's 2 things to keep in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1 - The legend rule, which you quoted, doesn't say anything about restrictions on which of the duplicates you have to choose, so there's no reason you can't choose the tapped one to get rid of and the untapped one to keep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2 - Tamiyo's Journal doesn't care where the clue tokens came from; it doesn't have to be the same tokens that it created.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, as described, you will get no benefit from this: you'll have just wasted 3 clue tokens and 5 mana. But it could be good with various combinations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T17:25:58.180" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:25:58.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32123" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32119" CreationDate="2016-08-18T15:09:26.987" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your suppositions are correct. But it's best not to have to work all this out yourself. Are you following a system from a book or web site? If not I suggest you do. You can always vary what you learn later.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4901" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T15:09:26.987" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32124" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32149" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:30:07.327" Score="5" ViewCount="730" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Plough Driver:&lt;/strong&gt; Once you have a stone house, you can pay 1 food at the start of each round to plough (at most) 1 field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Groom:&lt;/strong&gt; Once you have a stone house, you can build 1 stable at the beginning of each round at a cost of 1 wood. You do not need to place a family member on an action space to do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Manservant:&lt;/strong&gt; When you build a stone house, place 3 food on each remaining round space. At the start of these rounds, you receive the food.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pros:&lt;/strong&gt; These cards become powerful once you have renovated to stone&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cons:&lt;/strong&gt; Renovating to stone too early can limit the creation of additional rooms and thus family size.  This will severly constrain your ability to score points/win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Typical rennovation to stone typically happens late-game, (round 11-14) meaning you only get the cards' use two or three times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems the only realistic way to use these cards is if you happen to draw at least two of them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;and&lt;/strong&gt; you also have either:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Clay Starter:&lt;/strong&gt; When you play this card, if you only have 2 rooms in your wooden hut, immediately pay 1 food to renovate it to clay for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conservator:&lt;/strong&gt; You can renovate your wooden hut to a stone house without first needing to renovate it to a clay hut.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Question:&lt;/strong&gt; Are there any other viable (competitive) use-cases for these cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17979" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T01:35:01.627" Title="Use case for Plough Driver, Groom, &amp; Manservant in Agricola" Tags="|agricola|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32125" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32127" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:48:22.003" Score="4" ViewCount="1081" Body="&lt;p&gt;My board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVigor%5d&quot;&gt;Vigor&lt;/a&gt; (If damage would be dealt to a creature you control other than Vigor, prevent that damage. Put a +1/+1 counter on that creature for each 1 damage prevented this way.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 7/7 creature with Trample &lt;strong&gt;(Attacking)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7FXA.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/G7FXA.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Vigor&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMSat.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FMSat.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Garruk&amp;#39;s Horde&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent's board:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;1 1/1 creature &lt;strong&gt;(Blocking)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2C7S.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/D2C7S.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;I assign 1 damage to the blocker, and the rest of it (6) to my opponent. As our creatures take damage, Vigor's ability triggers and Garruk's Horde gets a +1/+1. How much damage does my opponent take: 6 or 7?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to further convolute the question: what happens if the blocker was replaced with an Abuna Acolyte? Knowing that it could tap to prevent the 1 damage that I assign it, must I assign it 2 damage? If I only assigned it 1 damage and it tapped to avoid that damage, would it successfully block me? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBGQB.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EBGQB.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T21:48:47.443" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T21:48:47.443" Title="How much damage do I deal? (How is damage dealt if an attacker gains power as combat damage is being assigned?)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" FavoriteCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32126" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7974" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:52:26.630" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;FYI: It isn't going to look as pretty as real hex tiles but if you are just prototyping a game then you can functionally simulate Hexes tiles with Square tiles since six squares can fit around each square if you stagger rows.  Drawing dots one quarter and three quarters down each edge and connect the nearest dots with lines makes the hex nature of squares more apparent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Real life example of someone using just square tiles to create a hex board:  &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/786116/beehive&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/786116/beehive&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18119" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:52:26.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32127" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32125" CreationDate="2016-08-18T17:56:42.750" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will only deal 6 damage to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because when determining how combat damage gets dealt the fist thing you do is assign damage based on the power of the creature (in this case 1 gets assigned to the blocking creature and 6 to your opponent), then after you decide how it is assigned it actually gets dealt. The fact that the creature gets bigger at the same time that it is dealing damage doesn't matter since it can only deal the damage it has assigned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. A player assigns a creature’s combat damage according to the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T17:56:42.750" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32128" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32129" CreationDate="2016-08-18T18:00:25.723" Score="2" ViewCount="443" Body="&lt;p&gt;Jyn Odan's Quick Draw works as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2 Strain: Use at the start of a hostile figure's activation. Interrupt to perform an attack with a Pistol targeting that figure. Limit once per round (twice if you have 2 activation tokens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 4 XP, Jyn can buy the Trick Shot skill:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 Strain: Use before you declare an attack with a Ranged weapon. You can draw line of sight from any space within 3 spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear to me: can these two can be used together? Can I use Quick Draw against someone I don't normally have line of sight to, but do with Trick Shot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T18:15:09.567" Title="Can I use Jyn Odan's Quick Draw if I don't have line of sight normally, but do with Trick Shot?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32128" CreationDate="2016-08-18T18:00:25.723" Score="1" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Justin Kemppainen, Assistant Board Game Manager for Fantasy Flight Games, &lt;a href=&quot;https://community.fantasyflightgames.com/topic/137140-jyn-odan-trick-shot-counting-spaces-and-quick-draw/?p=1497618&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;definitively stated that it is allowed&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Question:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  If a Trooper &quot;just around the corner&quot; (out of LOS) activates, can Jyn activate Quick Draw and Trick Shot (to gain LOS) to attack him?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Answer:&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Yep! That combination of abilities is legit, and they remain legit even if the target is not currently in line of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-18T18:15:09.567" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T18:15:09.567" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32125" CreationDate="2016-08-18T19:40:10.753" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your follow-up question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature with Trample must assign &lt;em&gt;at least&lt;/em&gt; lethal damage to all blockers before carrying over remaining damage to the defending player. In this case, lethal damage is 1, the blocking creature's toughness. You don't look at damage prevention or replacement effects or anything to &quot;look ahead&quot; to see if that damage will actually kill the blocker. Even if the defending player taps his Abuna Acolyte to prevent 1 damage, you could still deal 1 damage to the creature (which is prevented) and 6 to the player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note the &quot;at least&quot; above. You could assign 2 damage to the creature (1 of which is prevented) and 5 to the player, killing the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-08-18T19:40:10.753" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32131" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T07:09:10.487" Score="4" ViewCount="1509" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Valkyrie monster upgrade card states, &quot;Gain 2 glory per enemy figure destroyed in battle with this monster.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not say &quot;per enemy figure destroyed in &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; battle with this monster.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not say &quot;per enemy figure destroyed in battle &lt;strong&gt;by&lt;/strong&gt; this monster.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believed it to mean &quot;destroyed with this monster&quot;, meaning that the Valkyrie has to be on the winning side of the battle to claim the glory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was argued that it meant in any battle involving the Valkyrie, all casualties gave the player 2 glory, even if the Valkyrie lost and was sent to Valhalla. In combination with Frigga's Domain, the Valkyrie can become incredibly powerful. Returning from the dead (for 1 rage!), your Valkyrie could lose in another battle, claiming 2 glory per destroyed figure.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does the Valkyrie monster upgrade for Blood Rage work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18111" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2017-02-07T10:16:59.413" LastActivityDate="2017-02-07T10:16:59.413" Title="Does the Valkyrie have to win to earn extra glory?" Tags="|blood-rage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32132" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-19T08:05:57.810" Score="3" ViewCount="2069" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Blood Rage, one of the Clan upgrade cards from the second age is Tyr's Challenge, which states, &quot;As your action, you may pay 2 rage to &quot;repillage&quot; an already pillaged province.&quot;&#xA;In a recent game experience, a player repeatedly used that card in the center Yggdrasil province, which offers 3 stat increases on a success.  My question is, how many times can a player &quot;repillage&quot; a province?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18111" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T13:26:16.773" LastActivityDate="2023-07-05T07:49:57.250" Title="How many times can you pillage the same province in Blood Rage?" Tags="|blood-rage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32134" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32135" CreationDate="2016-08-19T10:09:15.927" Score="4" ViewCount="15131" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whilst looking for new dice I have noticed that the sizes differ. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the standard size of D6 dice in table top, card, and ball games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My assumption is at least 15mm add it seems to be the most common for sale. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12851" LastActivityDate="2017-11-10T08:22:00.467" Title="Usual size for D6 dice?" Tags="|dice|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32134" CreationDate="2016-08-19T10:33:39.427" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.dicegamedepot.com/dice-sizes/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This page on DiceGameDepot&lt;/a&gt; has an exhaustive article about it. A visual aid from that article:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JEmT.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/3JEmT.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience and the info from article, &lt;strong&gt;the 16mm die is the most common plastic die&lt;/strong&gt;, used in the most packaged tabletop games, likely for it's good balance between readability and usability, while taking up fewer space in boxes or storage than the bigger ones.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Smaller dice are often hard to roll because of their lower weight, while larger dice more easily roll off the table and are louder.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From a player's perspective, I feel that the 19mm die looks and feels better, especially in direct comparison. Using 16mm dice instead is likely a business decision. For some corner cases, such as marking counters on Magic: The Gathering cards, I prefer 12mm dice, as you don't need to roll them, they obscure the card less, and it's easier to carry large quantities of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for wood dice, which ship more frequently than plastic dice in older German tabletop boxes that I own, those have 15mm, 18mm and 30mm lengths after a quick measure. I wasn't able to find any sources on the numbers there, but I've been able to come up with 15mm dice much more often than any other within my collection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-08-19T10:41:16.510" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T10:41:16.510" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33504" CreationDate="2016-08-19T14:40:45.607" Score="12" ViewCount="1307" Body="&lt;p&gt;I probably didn't get some part of the rulings correctly but it seems to me that there is an interaction problem with 2 of the mini-expansions in Carcassonne. The problem seems to be the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding the mini-expansion &quot;The Robbers&quot; allows you to put a robber on the scoreboard and whenever a player moves a Meeple that is on the same square as your robber, you then get to steal points. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Adding the &quot;The Messages&quot; mini-expansion, gives you a second Meeple on the scoreboard which allows and allows you to move either one of the two when you score points. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem: Once you have the robber on the board, no one will ever move a Meeple that has the robber on the same square as a Meeple. They will always move the other Meeple as to not give any points to a stealing player thus rendering the robber completely useless. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How do you guys deal with this? Or am I not getting something?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastActivityDate="2020-01-24T11:47:36.730" Title="Carcassonne interaction between &quot;The Robbers&quot; and &quot;The Messages&quot;" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32132" CreationDate="2016-08-19T20:00:35.823" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As much as they have rage to do so.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cmon-files.s3.amazonaws.com/pdf/assets_item/resource/31/Blood_Rage_FAQ_1.1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ on CMON's site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Does Tyr’s Challenge (&lt;em&gt;pay 2 rage to repillage&lt;/em&gt;) allow a player to gain the pillage token reward more than once in the same age?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Yes, with Tyr’s Challenge you can pillage an already pillaged province, as long as you pay 2 Rage every time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T20:00:35.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32131" CreationDate="2016-08-19T20:04:17.620" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The player controlling Valkyrie will gain points for all destroyed figures in that battle, even if it is destroyed.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://cmon-files.s3.amazonaws.com/pdf/assets_item/resource/31/Blood_Rage_FAQ_1.1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official FAQ on CMON's site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q. Does the Valkyrie (&lt;em&gt;gain 2 Glory per enemy figure destroyed&lt;/em&gt;) get glory for destroyed enemy units if she is destroyed in the course of a battle?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Yes, with the Valkyrie you get Glory for all figures destroyed from the Call to Battle to the battle’s Resolution, even if she is destroyed at any point during the battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T20:04:17.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32139" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32140" CreationDate="2016-08-19T20:33:28.107" Score="2" ViewCount="2717" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried Googling the answer, but it seems like different sources say different things, and I can't find anything about it in the Commander rules (on the official Commander website). My main takeaway is that it's arbitrary based on your playgroup, but it seems like a rather unsatisfying answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know definitively how many poison counters it takes to kill someone in EDH?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T20:36:29.260" Title="How many poison counters warrant an EDH loss?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mechanics|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32140" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32139" CreationDate="2016-08-19T20:36:29.260" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is 10 just like in a normal game. The only format that changes the number of poison counters needed to cause a player to lose a game is Two-Headed Giant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5c&lt;/strong&gt; If a player has ten or more poison counters, he or she loses the game. Ignore this rule in Two-Headed Giant games; see rule 704.5u instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5u&lt;/strong&gt; In a Two-Headed Giant game, if a team has fifteen or more poison counters, that team loses the game. See rule 810, “Two-Headed Giant Variant.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-19T20:36:29.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32141" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32142" CreationDate="2016-08-20T03:48:25.443" Score="0" ViewCount="1672" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I declare my attackers as two 1/1 goblins, and my opponent declares his blockers as two 2/2 cards, before the creatures deal damage to each other, can I sacrifice my goblins to &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goblin Bombardment&lt;/a&gt;? The 2/2 cards would still have 2 toughness before &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397584&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Goblin Bombardment&lt;/a&gt; triggered. None of the abilities require attacking as a trigger, so let's just say I was &quot;testing the waters&quot; and if one of my goblins was blocked, I would have sacrificed it and the other would have attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18128" LastEditorUserId="18128" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T04:12:07.247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T15:29:56.807" Title="Can I sacrifice creatures that are attacking before they are blocked?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-08-20T15:30:23.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32141" CreationDate="2016-08-20T08:06:54.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can sacrifice one of you attackers after blockers but before combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.1b A player may activate an activated ability any time he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;116.3a The active player receives priority at the beginning of most steps and phases, after any turn-based actions (such as drawing a card during the draw step; see rule 703) have been dealt with and abilities that trigger at the beginning of that phase or step have been put on the stack. No player receives priority during the untap step. Players usually don’t get priority during the cleanup step (see rule 514.3).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this moment you are the active player and will receive priority after the declare blockers step. Now that you have priority you may activate an activated ability, so you can activate your Goblin Bombardment and sacrifice one of your creatures to kill one of your oponents blockers, for example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T15:29:56.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32143" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32141" CreationDate="2016-08-20T08:40:57.793" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Declare Blockers Step, after declaring blockers, players get priority:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Game+Rules#2826&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;509.5.&lt;/a&gt; Fifth, the active player gets priority. Players may cast spells and activate abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Goblin Bombardment has an activated ability (indicated by the colon), which you are allowed to activate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Game+Rules#2573&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;116.1b&lt;/a&gt; A player may activate an activated ability any time he or she has priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T08:40:57.793" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32144" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32147" CreationDate="2016-08-20T16:26:21.947" Score="3" ViewCount="659" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played munchkin marvel for the first time last night and had a problem when we encountered the monster Electro.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;munchkin marvel&lt;/a&gt; faq (sorry, need to ctrl f to it) did not answer the issue we had.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q. Which cards count as &quot;electronic devices&quot; for Electro?&#xA;  A. None. Electro's text means actual electronic devices: smart phones, laptops, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Our issue was centered on what was an electronic device. One of us had a wallet on the table and a player with an engineering physics degree argued that all of the cards with tap and pay type technology counted, but that chip cards and swipe cards were not. There was also a phone which had some high tech stylus which had a button and was argued that it was part of the phone as well as being its own electronic device. Are these valid examples of electronics?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18129" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T05:21:13.857" Title="Do these count as electronics for the purpose of Electro?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32145" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32146" CreationDate="2016-08-20T17:59:55.160" Score="2" ViewCount="9030" Body="&lt;p&gt;What colors of mana can &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExotic%20Orchard%5d&quot;&gt;Exotic Orchard&lt;/a&gt; produce in Commander if my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCommand%20Tower%5d&quot;&gt;Command Tower&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13607" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T23:25:00.153" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:22:52.563" Title="Exotic Orchard and Command Tower" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32145" CreationDate="2016-08-20T18:06:20.033" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Command Tower can produce any color of mana in its controller's commander's color identity. So, if your opponent controls one, your Exotic Orchard can produce any color of mana in that player's commander's color identity (assuming there are no other lands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule here is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana&quot;&gt;106.7&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Some abilities produce mana based on the type of mana another permanent or permanents “could produce.” The type of mana a permanent could produce at any time includes any type of mana that an ability of that permanent would produce if the ability were to resolve at that time, taking into account any applicable replacement effects in any possible order. Ignore whether any costs of the ability could or could not be paid. If that permanent wouldn’t produce any mana under these conditions, or no type of mana can be defined this way, there’s no type of mana it could produce.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T18:06:20.033" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32147" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32144" CreationDate="2016-08-20T18:47:21.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The most basic definition of electronic device is probably anything which has one or more transistors (or possibly diodes), and which is thus leveraging the tunneling of electrons across a heterogeneous semi-conductor boundary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Electronic devices&lt;/strong&gt; are components for controlling the flow of electrical currents for the purpose of information processing and system control. Prominent examples include transistors and diodes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would agree with your Eng. Phys. friend on everything except for chip devices. &lt;a href=&quot;http://money.howstuffworks.com/personal-finance/debt-management/chip-and-pin-credit-cards1.htm&quot;&gt;The chip on a chip card is actually a small CPU&lt;/a&gt; which receives power once inserted into the reader, thus clearly passing the possessing transistors test:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The computer chip inside a chip and PIN card functions like a small computer. Not only can the chip store data, but it's also a data processor. One of the reasons why chip and PIN cards are so secure is that the chip uses cryptography to protect secure data when communicating with a card reader. The chip itself has no power source, but it leaps into action when it comes in contact with a checkout terminal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as with all &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Munchkin&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; games, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot;&gt;final rule arbiter&lt;/a&gt; is always the owner of the primary game set being played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any other dispute should be settled by loud argument, with the owner of the game having the last word.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-08-20T18:59:07.997" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T18:59:07.997" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27337" CreationDate="2016-08-20T20:30:38.803" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In this scenario, it appears that the order in which the cards are played is important. i.e., if Tehran is drawn first, it gets a third cube. Then when Baghdad is drawn, it outbreaks and so does Tehran. Only two outbreaks when the cards are played in this sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18131" LastActivityDate="2016-08-20T20:30:38.803" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32149" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32124" CreationDate="2016-08-21T01:13:48.423" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think you are being a bit harsh on these cards. Let's say you renovate to stone in round 11 - definitely doable. Ignoring any combos, for the cost of one action and 1 or 2 food, you could get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Plow driver -&gt; 3 fields for 3 food. That is likely to get you at least 6 net points (with extra if you sow at some point). It's also similar payback to one of the plow minor improvements, with the bonus that the action space required (occupation) is one that is much less contested at that stage of the game than the plow field spots.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Groom -&gt; 3 stables for 3 wood. Similar to using the rooms/stables action to build stables (a reasonably common move in the last couple of rounds, in my experience), but a little cheaper.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Manservant -&gt; 9 food (so 7/8 net). Not stellar, but certainly better than you'd get from something like fishing.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think any of these could form a reasonable move, depending on the state of the game and what other actions are available. They certainly don't look horrible. Then, there are a few situations that would boost them from average to good moves. As well as the two cards you mention, there are others that might help you renovate earlier, and a few that help with playing occupations such as the tutor, bookshelf and writing desk.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wouldn't plan my whole game around using them, but would definitely give them a go under certain circumstances, and particularly if the stone spaces crop up early, making prompt renovation more practical.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14607" LastEditorUserId="14607" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T19:35:38.967" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:35:38.967" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32150" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32085" CreationDate="2016-08-21T09:27:56.563" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it's not a competitive build.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Longbeards are very slow. Only treemen and mummies are slower in the modern game. Their agility is also poor, requiring a 4+ to pick up, catch or dodge, even without any negative modifiers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Frenzy is not a weakness on the Trollslayers - it's a strength. Dwarf cages can be relatively easy to stall as it's very difficult for them to break the pattern of pillars that are often used to slow a cage down, particularly near a sideline. With frenzy you threaten teams that pillar near a sideline, as to do so risks their players to being pushed into the crowd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Taking only one player with enough agility to handle the ball reliably is also a risk. A thrown rock or a fortunate armour roll against av8 and you will be left without the ability to score, or move more than 4 spaces without GFIs. For this reason it's more typical to run with both blitzers and two runners (though not universal).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You likely won't need five rerolls as you get more used to risk management. And you should seek out a newer version of the rules, as the one you're using is out of date - try googling LRB6, CRP (Competition Rules Pack) or Icepelt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18132" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T17:37:40.830" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T17:37:40.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32151" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-21T11:41:24.247" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T11:41:24.247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T11:41:24.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32152" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-21T11:41:24.247" Score="0" Body="Yaku are hand patterns in [riichi-mahjong] that measures luck and difficulty in a completed hand as a scoring element. Each yaku has an assigned han value used for scoring and is required to win hands. This makes skill required in forming hands." OwnerUserId="8427" LastEditorUserId="8427" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T14:18:51.260" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T14:18:51.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="18105" CreationDate="2016-08-21T15:27:21.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rules vary, but in in most forms of mahjong, it's OK to win on anything that gives your final hand the basic structure of 4 groups of 3 and your pair of two. This can be on sequence groups from anyone (not just the previous player on the left), or on a single wait to form a pair.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where it gets tricky is that sometimes, the wait might influence some of the winning conditions or the scoring. Hong Kong scoring doesn't care about such considerations. Riichi mahjong cares about fu points for the structure of the last element (minor stuff), as well as for certain winning conditions (yaku) like pinfu that would require an open-ended sequence, or the ankou-based hands that require that the element itself be fully concealed (for sanankou: AAABC XXX YYY ZZ is a hand structure that can win on A/D/Z, but you can't claim the sanankou yaku on Z because the group counts as exposed even as you are finishing. Winning on D is fine, and winning on A simply requires a player to mentally split it into AAA A+BC as opposed to A+AA ABC. Riichi mahjong forces you to score the highest possible score if there can be a variation due to the structure of the hand given any shape or wait.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;edit&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Since I lack rep, small correction on the other answer. If a hand is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;no-ten&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, you aren't in a position of winning at all (as in &quot;not tenpai&quot;). If a hand is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;furiten&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;, the hand is in a position of winning (&quot;tenpai&quot;), but is not allowed to win off a discard because of its 3 associated stipulations [&lt;em&gt;persistent&lt;/em&gt;: can't win if any of your waits has been discarded by yourself; &lt;em&gt;temporary&lt;/em&gt;: can't win off a discard if you let one slide before you get to play again (actually play, call+discard or draw+discard: a turn jumping over you does not absolve this); &lt;em&gt;permanent&lt;/em&gt;: can't win off any discard if you let any of your waits slide after calling riichi].&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17965" LastEditorUserId="17965" LastEditDate="2016-08-21T15:33:43.413" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T15:33:43.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24803" CreationDate="2016-08-21T17:10:10.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Sacred discard&quot; is a western interpretation of the rules they perceived to be in place around 1964. However, the details provided in that 1964 book describe many rules that conflict with each other and that are not part of the modern game today.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More imaginative terms that reflect better the fallen aspect of &quot;furi&quot; are hallowed or damned. Sacred is a bit of language that has a positive connotation: being in furiten is exactly &lt;strong&gt;not that&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17965" LastActivityDate="2016-08-21T17:10:10.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32158" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32159" CreationDate="2016-08-22T01:58:10.170" Score="4" ViewCount="3653" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnsubstantiate%5d&quot;&gt;Unsubstantiate&lt;/a&gt; says, &quot;Return target spell or creature to its owner's hand.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems to me like it should allow you to return it from the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18139" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T06:25:38.950" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T14:08:54.117" Title="Does Unsubstantiate work on graveyard or exiled cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32159" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32158" CreationDate="2016-08-22T02:22:31.653" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does not return cards from graveyard or exile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Spell&quot; only refers to a card when it is on the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;111.1. A spell is a card on the stack. As the first step of being cast (see rule 601, &quot;Casting Spells&quot;), the card becomes a spell and is moved to the top of the stack from the zone it was in, which is usually its owner's hand. (See rule 405, &quot;Stack.&quot;) A spell remains on the stack as a spell until it resolves (see rule 608, &quot;Resolving Spells and Abilities&quot;), is countered (see rule 701.5), or otherwise leaves the stack. For more information, see section 6, &quot;Spells, Abilities, and Effects.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And it cannot target a creature in the any such zone because &quot;creature&quot; refers to a permanent in this instance which means it must be on the battlefield:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.2. Only permanents are legal targets for spells and abilities, unless a spell or ability (a) specifies that it can target an object in another zone or a player, (b) targets an object that can't exist on the battlefield, such as a spell or ability, or (c) targets a zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a spell or ability does intend to target something in graveyard or exile it will mention the zone specifically and refer to the target as a card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;108.2a In the text of spells or abilities, the term “card” is usually used to refer to a card that’s not on the battlefield or on the stack, such as a creature card in a player’s hand. The term “card” can also refer to a card in any zone that’s moving “from anywhere.” On rare occasions, the text of a spell or ability may refer to a nontoken permanent as a “card . . . on the battlefield.” For more information, see section 4, “Zones.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTreasured%20Find%5d&quot;&gt;Treasured Find&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Return target card from your graveyard to your hand. Exile Treasured Find.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastEditorUserId="7002" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T14:08:54.117" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T14:08:54.117" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32161" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8599" CreationDate="2016-08-22T08:54:59.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You will have a creature in the graveyard and two triggered abilities waiting to be put on the stack. You as controller of both the abilities then can choose in what order you want to put them on the stack. Then it will be a case of last-on-in-first-one-out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if you choose to put the persist trigger on the stack first, with the undying trigger on top. The undying trigger will resolve, the creature will then return to the battlefield with +1 counter. The persist trigger will then try to resolve, but with th creature no longer in the graveyard it will simply do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The inverse is true if you put the trigger on the stacks in the other order. With the undying trigger on the stack first with the persist trigger on top, the persist trigger will resolve and the undying trigger will have no creature to return.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember triggered abilities resolve one at a time in reverse order from the way they where put on the stack. In Mtg there is no blending of spells or abilities. They only do that what there rules text allows them to do. If they try to do the impossible, they simply do nothing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T08:54:59.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2016-08-22T10:16:48.550" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;UPDATE: So I finished my first tournament last Saturday (1:3 W:L, Place 9 out of 14). Here is my experience regarding the things I brought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Too much copies of the build, three are enough (one for the TO, one for the opposite player, one backup)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;More bottled water&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pain killers (lack of oxygen after the third round got me head aches)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pen is always useful&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Marked my tokens on the evening before (there is some chaos on the table sometimes and I am sure I lost 1+ tokens regardless)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additional things I should/could have brought:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;One guy broke his K-Wing, so next time I will bring glue to help out&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One guy forgot his damage deck, but I think that would be too much to bring more than one for these cases (he played with an old damage deck from somebody else's collection).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, there is a good collection on tournament things on reddit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/3olg74/strategy_guide_tournament_prep/?st=is5vzf6o&amp;amp;sh=ee050eff&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tournament Prep&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/XWingTMG/comments/4etubp/what_tournament_etiquetteprocedures_do_new/?st=is5vzhjq&amp;amp;sh=70345698&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tournament Etiquette&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16259" LastActivityDate="2016-08-22T10:16:48.550" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32163" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33581" CreationDate="2016-08-22T15:31:21.860" Score="7" ViewCount="628" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played my first game last night with my son and we had a blast even though we really didn't have a good understanding of the rules until we were almost finished.  I'm really looking forward to our next game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this game there are non-player captains (NPCs) that may engage in combat with player-controlled ships.  Combat decisions for the NPC are decided by the player(s) not engaged in that combat as described in the following rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;NPCs in combat are controlled by another player with an interest in&#xA;  doing his or her best to secure victory. If there are any issues over&#xA;  who gets to control an NPC, then the player to the left of the player&#xA;  fighting the NPC controls it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In the first sentence, does &lt;code&gt;secure victory&lt;/code&gt; refer to winning the game, sinking the player ship at all costs, fleeing a losing battle, or other?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, suppose player A is controlling an NPC in a battle vs. player B.  Player A might want to avoid sinking player B because player A wants to attack player B on their next turn to gain a glory (victory) point.  This seems like a gamey tactic that goes against the spirit of the rules.  What do you think?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18034" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-08-22T15:32:22.463" LastActivityDate="2017-02-27T05:36:52.600" Title="Merchants and Marauders NPC Combat Decisions" Tags="|merchants-and-marauders|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32164" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-22T23:29:17.913" Score="15" ViewCount="2261" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, my son, my wife, and I play regularly. I've read the instructions thoroughly, and we have been playing for a while both ways, but I would like to see if someone can help figure this out once and for all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that when you play an action card you go from top to bottom. We've done that, and still come across cards which bring up the issue of which order to do things in. Do you always do the bold before the regular print, or do you do the regular print, and then the bold? I get that you accumulate a pool of actions, and can use those whenever, and most of the time it makes sense to do the bold first regardless, but certain cards still cause issues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance: Intrigue card - Shanty Town has +2 actions, in regular type is: reveal your hand. If you have no action cards in hand, +2 cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 1 action card in hand after playing the Shanty Town. Do I reveal my hand before or after playing the other action card in hand?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18149" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T15:58:34.023" Title="Dominion - bold and regular type: which action comes first?" Tags="|dominion|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32164" CreationDate="2016-08-22T23:48:13.210" Score="27" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do exactly what the card says in order, how bold the type is doesn't matter. The +2 Actions isn't an instruction to play (up to) 2 action cards at that time, it means that later in the Action Phase you can play 2 additional actions. So the revealing cards would happen before you could play any other cards from your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/getFile.php?id=348&quot;&gt;Dominion Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Furthermore, the player must&#xA;  fully resolve an Action card before playing another one (if he is&#xA;  able to play another Action card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;+X Action(s)&quot; – the player may play X number of additional Actions this&#xA;  turn. +X Action(s) adds to the number of Actions that can be played in the&#xA;  Action phase. It does not mean play another Action immediately. The&#xA;  instructions on the current Action card must be completed before playing&#xA;  any additional Actions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T15:58:34.023" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T15:58:34.023" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32164" CreationDate="2016-08-23T01:09:55.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't interrupt playing one card to play another. So you play Shanty Town, you get +2 Actions, you reveal your hand and since there's another Action card there you don't get to draw. &lt;em&gt;Then&lt;/em&gt;, once all of that has finished resolving, you've got 2 Actions in your pool, so you can spend one to play that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are some cards that specifically say that you get to play another card as part of resolving them, including Throne Room, Golem, and Herald (as well as Black Market and Storyteller which let you play &lt;em&gt;Treasure&lt;/em&gt; cards when you play them). In those cases, you play the main card, let's say Throne Room. It tells you to pick a card in hand and play it twice, so you do that. Once you've finished playing that card twice, you also finish resolving the Throne Room.  For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Play Throne Room&#xA;  Select Shanty Town from hand&#xA;  Play Shanty Town (first play)&#xA;    +2 Actions&#xA;    Reveal hand&#xA;    Conditionally draw cards&#xA;  Done playing Shanty Town&#xA;  Play Shanty Town (second play)&#xA;    +2 Actions&#xA;    Reveal hand&#xA;    Conditionally draw cards&#xA;  Done playing Shanty Town&#xA;Done playing Throne Room&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the end of which, you are up 3 Actions and 0-6 cards. Alternatively, you might have something like (see below for card text):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;Play Procession&#xA;  Select Throne Room from hand&#xA;  Play Throne Room (first play)&#xA;    Select Storyteller from hand&#xA;    Play Storyteller (first play)&#xA;      +1 Action&#xA;      +1 Coin&#xA;      Select 3xCopper from hand&#xA;      Play Copper from hand&#xA;        +1 Coin&#xA;      Play Copper from hand&#xA;        +1 Coin&#xA;      Play Copper from hand&#xA;        +1 Coin&#xA;      Spend all coins (4) and draw that many cards&#xA;    Done playing Storyteller&#xA;    Play Storyteller (second play)&#xA;      +1 Action&#xA;      +1 Coin&#xA;      Select Diadem from hand&#xA;        +2 Coins&#xA;        +1 Coin per unused Action (2)&#xA;      Spend all coins (4) and draw that many cards&#xA;    Done playing Storyteller&#xA;  Done playing Throne Room&#xA;  Play Throne Room (second play)&#xA;    Select nothing from hand&#xA;  Done playing Throne Room&#xA;  Trash Throne Room&#xA;  Gain Storyteller&#xA;Done playing Procession&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where Procession = &quot;You may play an action card from your hand twice. Trash it. Gain an Action card costing exactly $1 more than it.You may play an action card from your hand twice. Trash it. Gain an Action card costing exactly $1 more than it.&quot;, Storyteller = &quot;+1 Action, +$1; Play up to 3 Treasures from your hand. Pay all of your $; +1 Card per $ paid.&quot;, and Diadem = &quot;$2; When you play this, +$1 per unused Action you have (Action, not Action card).&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note how the coin that Storyteller naturally gives you comes first, and is then turned into drawing a card draw by the time it finishes resolving. Similarly, the Actions you get from the two Storyteller plays give you coin for Diadem, but don't let you play more Action cards until the whole chain is completely resolved. And trashing the Throne Room and gaining a new card due to Procession happens right at the end, so you won't draw the new Storyteller as part of drawing cards from the one you picked to Throne Room.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T01:09:55.623" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32167" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32164" CreationDate="2016-08-23T04:32:16.917" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As you've read in the rules, you're supposed to process the card instructions in order going from top to bottom.  The top-to-bottom rule applies to all text on the card, including the bold text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that boldfaced type is used only to highlight the basic card properties (+Action, +Buy, +Card) and has no relation to order; some cards have the bold text &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; the regular  text (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Oracle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Oracle&lt;/a&gt;) and some have bold text in the middle (e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Bridge_Troll&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Bridge Troll&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, +Action and +Buy don't mean that you &lt;em&gt;perform&lt;/em&gt; the action or buy immediately; they instead increment the &quot;bank&quot; of playable actions and buys for your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6495" LastEditorUserId="6495" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T04:37:54.570" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T04:37:54.570" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32168" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32172" CreationDate="2016-08-23T05:51:21.977" Score="0" ViewCount="214" Body="&lt;p&gt;Before I try a group play of &lt;a href=&quot;http://upperdeckblog.com/2016/07/legendary-encounters-a-firefly-deck-building-game-taking-a-step-into-the-verse/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Legendary: Encounters&lt;/em&gt; (the &lt;strong&gt;Firefly&lt;/strong&gt; version)&lt;/a&gt;, I've started the first three missions as a solo, single-avatar run. I just completed episode 1-A solo, and it was challenging but not terribly so. I'm worried that I'm not playing the game right, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not explicitly stated, but as a single-avatar player, I just use my Avatar's character deck every turn, plus the Bridge cards, and thats it. My other main characters don't seem to have a function other than determining which &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; characters fill the Supporting Characters (and thus the big crew deck that rotates into the Bridge).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used Mal as my avatar in the last episode, and every turn was just the introduction of an episode card into the 'Verse, then my hand of six Mal cards (attack/scan/recruit), then cleanup. A few cards moved a square or two in the 'Verse, but no cards ever entered the combat zone, and I completed the goals just as an Inevitable card showed up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that sound right for single-avatar play? Should I be doing something with my Main Characters (besides my Avatar) each turn, or are they just there to have passive effects on episode cards and soak up crew strikes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13189" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T11:42:37.840" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T16:01:38.420" Title="In a single-avatar game, what do the other main characters do?" Tags="|legendary-firefly|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32169" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32171" CreationDate="2016-08-23T12:14:33.187" Score="7" ViewCount="998" Body="&lt;p&gt;A problem occurred during a recent game of Ticket to Ride.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;After completing the 3 original destination ticket, the player drew 3 new destination cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The player didn't have enough trains left to complete ANY of the 3 destination but the player is required to keep at least one of those newly drawn destination cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens in this case?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is the player still liable to negative points at the end of the game for the destination that is impossible to complete?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Is this one of the pure bad luck elements of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18156" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T12:19:49.400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:35:42.927" Title="Is there negative marking when destination cards are drawn and not enough trains are left?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32170" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32169" CreationDate="2016-08-23T12:20:48.907" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Players get negative points for &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; destination tickets that are incomplete when the game ends, period. Either this player got unlucky, or made a foolish decision drawing new tickets so close to the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T12:20:48.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32169" CreationDate="2016-08-23T14:35:42.927" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is common that when drawing new destination tickets, none of them will be possible to complete. Especially if drawing later in the game. It makes no difference if the reason that it's impossible to complete is because you don't have enough trains, or because all routes into and out of the necessary cities are blocked, etc. Drawing new tickets is intended to be a risk vs reward proposition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, the player in that situation just gets unlucky, and will keep the 1 ticket that's worth the least points, so they lose the least amount.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even then, it can be the right move to draw tickets near the very end, especially if you are otherwise losing. Sometimes it's even the right move to draw tickets as your very last move, even knowing you can't ever play trains again! You might know you are losing, and have no choice but to hope to get lucky and draw a ticket that you've already completed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T14:35:42.927" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32172" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32168" CreationDate="2016-08-23T16:01:38.420" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;From your description, you used the Avatars correctly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the outset of your solo game, the Avatars really only determining what crew member you are playing and what crew members will be available on the bridge. Those four crew members will define what strategies you'll use throughout the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as the other four main character Avatars that aren't you, their purpose is really only to take crew member specific strikes (defined on &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/filepage/135403/legendary-encounters-firefly-rulebook&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page 14 of the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;). Other than that, once you've set up the game, their impact on gameplay is very minimal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T16:01:38.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32173" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32178" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:25:47.143" Score="4" ViewCount="2061" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can you increase the power of a creature that entered the battlefield in response to the triggered ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSelvala%2c%20Heart%20of%20the%20Wilds%5d&quot;&gt;Selvala, Heart of the Wilds&lt;/a&gt; in order to draw the card? For example, suppose you have out Selvala and a 4/4, and you summon another 4/4 and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; in response to the trigger. Would that work and let you actually draw a card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18162" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-08-23T19:36:18.670" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:36:18.670" Title="Response to Selvala, Heart of the Wilds triggered ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32174" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32173" CreationDate="2016-08-23T18:31:45.157" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately no. The trigger checks as it activates, so the &lt;strong&gt;giant growth&lt;/strong&gt; would turn it into a 7/7, but it would not enter as a 7/7. If you had something such as &lt;strong&gt;Zameck Guildmage&lt;/strong&gt; and used it's ability to make the creature enter with a +1/+1 counter, then your 4/4 would enter as a 5/5 and &lt;strong&gt;Selvala&lt;/strong&gt;'s trigger would let you draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T18:31:45.157" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32176" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:18:46.057" Score="1" ViewCount="354" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a magnetized mat solution to a game that is played on a large laminated mat. The mat is laminated and currently the cards, once sorted, have to be affixed to their spaces on the mat with sticky tack (the goal at the end is to have a completed mat where the cards don't move around so the &quot;results&quot; can be shared with others--each person has his/her own mat). Since each person has a mat (or game board), I need a solution where each person can have a 3x3 mat (folded into 4 squares and unfolded to full-size) and magnetized cards to move about on the mat. Ideas?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18164" LastActivityDate="2017-01-21T10:21:53.447" Title="magnetic mat for card sorting game" Tags="|game-design|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32177" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32145" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:22:52.563" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If mana outside the color identity of your Commander is ever added to your mana pool, that mana is considered colorless. So, in effect, it could only produce colors that overlapped between your and your opponents' commanders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/formats/commander&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/formats/commander&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18165" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:22:52.563" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32173" CreationDate="2016-08-23T19:24:12.803" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can change the creature's size in response to the ability in order to draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot;&gt;Rule 603.4&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].” When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the “intervening ‘if’ clause” rule. (&lt;strong&gt;The word “if” has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an “if” that immediately follows a trigger condition.&lt;/strong&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;if&quot; condition in Selvala's ability appears at the end of the ability, so it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; an &quot;intervening 'if' clause&quot;. This means that the creature's power is only checked when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is confirmed by a ruling about Selvala in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/conspiracy-take-crown-release-notes-2016-08-22&quot;&gt;Conspiracy: Take the Crown release notes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The new creature's power is compared to the power of each other creature on the battlefield as the first ability resolves.&lt;/strong&gt; If another creature has the same or higher power than the new creature's power, no one may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T19:24:12.803" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32124" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:39:28.253" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree with User2340246 and want to supplement his answer, placing special importance on the fact that this game is all about &quot;Chaos management&quot;, so it depends on the game state. Those cards combined could potentially be &lt;em&gt;fantastic&lt;/em&gt; in the right circumstances, but if you go into play dead set on getting all of those out, ignoring what is going on around you, most likely you'll come up short. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is quite possible to have one game where having a &quot;themed&quot; card combo will work out well, and then doing the exact same thing in another game it will not because you will have to do a few inefficient moves to make it happen. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, keep it in mind but don't force it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I had one game where I themed it around the manufacturer and the materials-to-food type of thing, and it worked quite well. I actually destroyed that game with 50 some points. At a later date I tried the same thing and I got absolutely crushed. 30 points or so I believe. I thought about it for some time and I realized that I forced the play style and had to make some really inefficient moves to get all of the cards out, which put me wayyy behind in moves. If I would have just done one or two cards around that theme to supplement something else, it would have worked out much better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Updated Use Case&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found a 67 point use case for these cards. Could have been even more :).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have noticed that one of the hardest parts of fast renovation is family growth . To combat this I used Farm Steward and the Reed hut. Reed hut to get an extra person out fast, and then Conservator and farm steward for the family growth without room once Renovate came out in phase 2. Using Manservant and Maid and a couple other +1 food each round cards, and I was getting 12 food per harvest for free :) Didn't have to eat a single sheep or grain. Huge points. Oh, it also helped that I got Layabout for the Phase 2 harvest :) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15783" LastEditorUserId="15783" LastEditDate="2017-05-15T01:35:01.627" LastActivityDate="2017-05-15T01:35:01.627" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32077" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:54:04.430" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The location is not closed. The survivor places on any given location are different form the zombie places. If the zombies places are filled you can still move a survivor to that location. However if no zombie spaces are emptied during that round when adding a new zombie that survivor will die when the area is overrun again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T20:54:04.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32181" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31936" CreationDate="2016-08-23T20:58:12.977" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;you deal out the cards up to three. If there are less than three you just deal out those cards. Use what you can. And then put them in the discard pile and start over. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If those are the only cards you have left including the rest of the discard pile then you might be in a lose scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-08-23T20:58:12.977" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32176" CreationDate="2016-08-24T01:45:11.043" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have never used this product, but you might try something &lt;a href=&quot;http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B000EY726C&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;like this&lt;/a&gt;. It is an adhesive magnetic sheet. The adhesive could be used to create magnetic cards and possibly the game board (I have no clue how well it folds, if at all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you made the game board out of a different material you could use sections of the adhesive magnet to make a contact point to stick the cards to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18168" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T01:45:11.043" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32184" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32185" CreationDate="2016-08-24T04:19:28.837" Score="8" ViewCount="2637" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I attack with a first strike creature, does it deal combat damage before normal combat damage is dealt?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, if I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDrana%2c%20Liberator%20of%20Malakir%5d&quot;&gt;Drana, Liberator of Malakir&lt;/a&gt; (has first strike and &quot;Whenever Drana, Liberator of Malakir deals combat damage to a player, put a +1/+1 counter on each attacking creature you control.&quot;) and 5 other creatures with no counters on them, do I deal damage equal to the creatures' total power or damage equal to the creatures' total power + 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T13:33:20.033" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T13:26:12.717" Title="Does first strike damage occur before normal damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32184" CreationDate="2016-08-24T05:03:53.613" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yup, that's one of the reasons Drana's powerful - she can pump up your other attackers in time to help them deal more damage. The point of first strike is that it happens first!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how combat plays out, assuming you attack with Drana, your opponent doesn't block her, and nothing weird happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First Combat Damage Step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drana and all other creatures with First Strike or Double Strike deal damage. Drana will deal 2 damage to your opponent, unless you've pumped her up somehow.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Drana's ability triggers, then presumably resolves, placing a +1/+1 counter on each of your attacking creatures, including Drana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second (&amp;quot;regular&amp;quot;) Combat Damage Step&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All of your creatures without First Strike (including those with Double Strike) deal damage equal to their power, including the +1 from the counters they just got.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are rulings &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=401861&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;on the Gatherer page for Drana&lt;/a&gt; to this effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Drana’s last ability triggers after combat damage has been dealt, so only attacking creatures that survive the combat damage step in which Drana deals combat damage will have +1/+1 counters put on them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The +1/+1 counter won’t change how much damage Drana or any other attacking creature with first strike or double strike deals during that combat damage step. However, the +1/+1 counters that are put on attacking creatures without first strike will affect the damage those creatures deal during the regular combat damage step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T13:26:12.717" CommentCount="15" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32176" CreationDate="2016-08-24T12:51:47.320" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems like what you need is not magnetic mats, but instead simply a metal playmat, and magnetic cards. Unless you produce it yourself, I doubt you're going to find magnetized sheets that fold, whereas you might find a foldable metal whiteboard, or could build one yourself. From there, making the magnetic cards could be as easy as attaching magnets to the back of paper cards, or get the cards printed on magnetic sheets. Of course, how feasible this is depends on your board and card sizes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The combination of metal and foldable sounds like it wouldn't be much fun sliding things over the surface, nevermind if either part is magnetic. Since you're already dealing with uncomfortable movability, have you considered using &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hook_and_loop_fastener&quot;&gt;hook and loop fasteners&lt;/a&gt; (also called Velcro, because of it's manufacturer/trademark holder) instead? This would be consideably cheaper and more portable than a solution involving metal components, nevermind less likely to break and - if you make everything out of fabric material - even washable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all you need is a solution to be able to fix the cards into place, you might want to go with a wooden base plate and use tacks to fix the cards on the surface once you're satisfied with the position. This is the most budget-efficient variant I can think of. It comes with the downside of not being infinitely reuseable, as both the board and the cards will be damaged a little bit each time they're used, but this is certainly something you could go with for testing purposes one way or another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also go more fancy and use a base layer out of any rigid material of your choice, along with a cover layer out of a transparent, equally rigid material such as &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poly%28methyl_methacrylate%29&quot;&gt;acryllic glass&lt;/a&gt;. You could move the cards around without the inhibiting factor a magnet would have, and when you're done, place the transparent layer on top and affix it in a suitable way that depends on what you're trying to do with it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;You may be fine with some kind of clamps, but if you need to pin it on a wall or need to otherwise store it in an upright state, you would be better off using screws (you could fix them to the base plate, reducing the amount of loose parts while making the final assembly easier) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wingnut_%28hardware%29&quot;&gt;wing nuts&lt;/a&gt;, which are easy to use and don't require tools.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I'm missing what you're trying to do entirely, please clarify your question, providing details about anything you can think of. Brainstorming requires some kind of ground under the feet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T12:51:47.320" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32195" CreationDate="2016-08-24T14:52:06.987" Score="5" ViewCount="960" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have really been into Carcassonne lately and have purchased many expansions, even though I'm still missing some of the rarer ones. I have the following: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Base Game&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 1: Inns and Cathedrals&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 2: Traders and Builders&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 3: Princess and the Dragon&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 4: The Tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 5: Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 6: Count, King &amp;amp; Robber&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Expansion 8: Bridges, Castles &amp;amp; Bazaars&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All 6 mini expansions &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have since realized that many expansions have rulings that contradict and/or cause ambiguous situations together and that some just cannot be played at the same time. Are there expansions that should just not be played or are there known combinations of expansions that are the ideal game? I'm looking to have the most fun possible without having arguments over how the expansions work together. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Here is an example of problems that can occur with some expansions. This is a question I posted a few days ago: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/32136/carcassonne-interaction-between-the-robbers-and-the-messages&quot;&gt;Carcassonne interaction between &amp;quot;The Robbers&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;The Messages&amp;quot;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&#xA;L-P&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T19:56:32.907" Title="Which expansions should not be used together in Carcassonne?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32189" CreationDate="2016-08-24T15:25:38.953" Score="3" ViewCount="736" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was recently made aware of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24511/simply-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;Simply Catan&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/a&gt;, a re-implementation of &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; (formerly &lt;em&gt;Settlers of Catan&lt;/em&gt;). I see that it is advertised as being faster, with only a 5 minute setup and 30 minute play-time. But what are the actual differences between these games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T15:31:41.877" Title="What is different between regular Catan and Simply Catan?" Tags="|catan|simply-catan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32188" CreationDate="2016-08-24T15:31:41.877" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It looks like the biggest differences are tile sets (multiple hexes attached together) to decrease set up time, and only 7VP needed to win for shorter games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/game/simply-catan&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Catan&lt;/a&gt; website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Differences Between Simply Catan and the Base Game&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a quick setup, Simply Catan comes with 5 rows of tiles, printed on both sides (1x5, 2x4, 2x3). This design reduces overall setup time of the game while still providing enough variation to make for a different game each time you play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For beginners, the rules provide recommended starting positions. This allows new players to dive immediately into the fun of the game mechanics, without spending a lot of time worrying about getting started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing to 7 Victory Points speeds up the time to play. With Simply Catan, 30-40 minutes is all your family needs to get your &amp;quot;Catan fix&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T15:31:41.877" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32193" CreationDate="2016-08-24T17:50:53.960" Score="0" ViewCount="970" Body="&lt;p&gt;I just got the &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/200171/legendary-big-trouble-little-china&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Legendary: Big Trouble in Little China&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; deck-building game. They recommend using this Mastermind, Six-Shooter, for your first play through, but I cant figure out what &quot;reveal&quot; means in this situation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the &lt;strong&gt;Master Strike&lt;/strong&gt; text on this Mastermind card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9YXdf.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9YXdf.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;six-shooter card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that text mean I need to &quot;reveal&quot; one of those two types of Heroes from my &lt;strong&gt;hand&lt;/strong&gt;, my &lt;strong&gt;discard pile&lt;/strong&gt;, the &lt;strong&gt;Hero Deck&lt;/strong&gt;, or somewhere else? I'm relatively new to the &lt;em&gt;Legendary&lt;/em&gt; series, so maybe this is spelled out somewhere else, but not in the BTLC instructions. I just want to know I'm playing correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess it meant to &quot;reveal but not use&quot; one of those Heroes from your &lt;strong&gt;hand&lt;/strong&gt;, then discard it for later; this seems to make the only sense, as you'd be wasting a character for a few turns, or taking a Strike. Any other way, and it sounds like you're &lt;em&gt;adding&lt;/em&gt; a Hero to your hand/deck, and that doesn't sound very much like a Master Strike effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13189" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T18:07:24.010" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T19:29:30.577" Title="What does &quot;reveal&quot; mean in this context?" Tags="|legendary-bigtrouble|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32192" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-24T18:07:34.890" Score="3" ViewCount="2626" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can players that are in Tokyo City or Tokyo Bay heal themselves on their turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T18:17:19.693" Title="King of Tokyo: Healing in Tokyo City/Bay" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32193" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32191" CreationDate="2016-08-24T18:17:36.977" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.upperdeck.com/OP/RuleBooks/Legendary_Rules-Core_Set.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Legendary: Marvel core rule book on page 17&lt;/a&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;“Reveal a card” just means show the other players that you have it. You don’t play or discard the card you revealed. When you have the opportunity to “reveal a card”, &lt;strong&gt;you can reveal a card from your hand or you can reveal a card in front of you that you have already played this turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this doesn't appear to be explicitly stated in the rules for &lt;em&gt;Big Trouble in Little China&lt;/em&gt;, but they same rules likely apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the context of this card, you will (almost always) end up revealing a card from your hand. The reveal happens as part of the Master Strike for Six Shooter, which most likely happens at the beginning of a player's turn when the top card of the villain deck is revealed. In some other Legendary versions it's possible to reveal the top card of the villain deck in the middle of a player's turn, but I haven't played this enough to know whether that's possible in the &lt;em&gt;Big Trouble in Little China&lt;/em&gt; version.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-08-24T19:29:30.577" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T19:29:30.577" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32192" CreationDate="2016-08-24T18:23:53.130" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;They cannot heal using the &quot;heart&quot; dice, but they can still heal in other ways.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Being in Tokyo (Tokyo City or&#xA;  Tokyo Bay) has some advantages&#xA;  and disadvantages:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;The Monster in Tokyo&#xA;    cannot use the&#xA;    [heart] result on&#xA;    the dice to heal (but can&#xA;    heal using cards) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T18:23:53.130" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32187" CreationDate="2016-08-24T19:43:58.893" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I made games with this expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Base Game, Inns and Cathedrals, Traders and Builders, Princess and the Dragon, The Tower, Abbey &amp;amp; Mayor, Count, King &amp;amp; Robber; Bridges, Castles &amp;amp; Bazaars and wheel of fortune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And all worked fine together, the most important are: 1. the game can have 4 or 5 hours long and 2. beware when the fields with barn are unexpectedly joined under some bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastActivityDate="2016-08-24T19:43:58.893" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32196" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32199" CreationDate="2016-08-24T20:59:05.073" Score="2" ViewCount="198" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Carcassonne with &quot;The Tower&quot; and &quot;Abbey and Mayor&quot; expansions, can adding a level to the tower capture either the Mayor and/or Wagon? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no rules that I have seen that either authorize and/or forbid doing this so it's ambiguous. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T13:05:23.887" Title="Can the Tower capture the Wagon and/or the Mayor in Carcassonne" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32176" CreationDate="2016-08-25T02:52:09.023" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Use felt instead of metal/magnets/paper.  Actually, you could take your current laminated cards and &quot;sew&quot;/glue felt to the backside pretty easily.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then use a felt playmat and it will stick together well enough that you can pick it up and wave it around a bit (not too much but should be enough for the purposes of a board game show and tell session.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;search google images for &quot;felt storyboard&quot; to get a better idea&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=felt%20story%20board&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&amp;amp;q=felt+story+board&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15932" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T02:52:09.023" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32196" CreationDate="2016-08-25T13:05:23.887" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the file Carcassonne CAR (this is the link &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/87531/carcassonne-standard-complete-annotated-rules&lt;/a&gt; ) page 52, section the tower, before note 120 says: &quot;Whenever a player places a tower piece, he or she may take one follower prisoner. Builders and pigs cannot be taken prisoner&quot; So any meeple than can be considered a follower and it's not a pig or a builder can be captured.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In page 57, section abbey and mayor, note 137 says: &quot;The mayor and wagon are followers, subject to the usual rules of deployment and affecting the majority. The barn is a special figure, not a follower.&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6581" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T13:05:23.887" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32200" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32219" CreationDate="2016-08-25T15:05:59.623" Score="3" ViewCount="291" Body="&lt;p&gt;When declaring war, one tactic might be for a player to choose the white flag on the war die to mean &quot;0 war cost&quot;, and have no intention of forming an alliance. Normally, an alliance is formed when both players in a war choose the white flag symbol:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If both players chose a white flag, a peaceful alliance is formed&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rules clearly state that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players cannot form an alliance in a 2 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is it still permitted to choose the white flag symbol to bid 0 during war, knowing full well that an alliance cannot be formed? If yes, what happens if both players choose the white flag? Does that mean that it is a tie of 0, and then standard tiebreaker rules apply?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T14:27:29.983" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T15:33:03.927" Title="In a two-player game, is it allowed to choose the flag symbol to bid 0 during war?" Tags="|tiny-epic-kingdoms|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32217" CreationDate="2016-08-25T16:24:03.917" Score="8" ViewCount="559" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought this game in a small grocery store in Vietnam. I've asked several Vietnamese people of various age if they know the game. Usually, they knew the game but didn't know the rules. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My questions are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What is the name of this game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What are the rules of this mysterious game?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the photographs of the game itself. Perhaps they'll help you to identify the game and provide me with a set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Box&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box is not big. It has some Vietnamese words on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The title is: &lt;em&gt;phát tài&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The text on the top of the box is: &lt;em&gt;chính hiệu cao cáp; dề phòng giả mạo&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The words in the four octagons between two children on the side of the box are:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;cung&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;hỉ&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;phát&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;tài&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXVHlm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vXVHlm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the &amp;quot;phát tài&amp;quot; side of the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEzHKm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gEzHKm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the &amp;quot;Chinese characters&amp;quot; side of the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4iiKjm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/4iiKjm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the &amp;quot;all plastic&amp;quot; size of the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPaoEm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/LPaoEm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the top of the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeiI4m.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeiI4m.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the bottom of the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSuhRm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/mSuhRm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;yet another view on the box&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Content of the Box&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are ten matchboxes inside the main box - a half of them is green and the second half is red.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Vietnamese words on the matchboxes are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;phát tài&lt;/em&gt; on one side of the matchbox;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;thuận thiên&lt;/em&gt; on the other side;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;thuận thiên&lt;/em&gt; on the bottom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w96ngm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/w96ngm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;matchbox-like small boxes&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;￼&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Inside the matchbox&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every matchbox has 4 sets of 28 cards of different colors: green, red, white and yellow. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is written &lt;em&gt;phát tài&lt;/em&gt; on the back of every card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8Mcem.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/k8Mcem.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a matchbox&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sJdTfm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sJdTfm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;4 different colors&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jxe3om.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jxe3om.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;the back of the card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1vKVm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1vKVm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;12 sample cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Note: To view the images in a higher resolution, just remove the last &lt;code&gt;m&lt;/code&gt; character from the link to imgur. For example change &lt;em&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1vKV&lt;strong&gt;m&lt;/strong&gt;.jpg&lt;/em&gt; to &lt;em&gt;https://i.stack.imgur.com/H1vKV.jpg&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18187" LastEditorUserId="18187" LastEditDate="2016-09-08T06:51:22.930" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T06:51:22.930" Title="What are the rules of the mysterious game with &quot;phát tài&quot; written on the box?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32202" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32204" CreationDate="2016-08-25T17:39:54.277" Score="1" ViewCount="178" Body="&lt;p&gt;As the title asks, can I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAphotic%20Wisps%5d&quot;&gt;Aphotic Wisps&lt;/a&gt; on a creature like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDross%20Prowler%5d&quot;&gt;Dross Prowler&lt;/a&gt; that already has fear and is already black?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the same vein (I don't see why it would be different, but Magic is complex), can I cast 2 copies of Aphotic Wisps on the same creature and will they both resolve?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15792" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T18:07:28.547" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T18:07:28.547" Title="Can Aphotic Wisps be cast on a black creature that has fear?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32202" CreationDate="2016-08-25T17:45:59.320" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, there's no reason you can't do that. All Aphotic Wisps requires is a &quot;target creature&quot;, it doesn't care what color it is, or what abilities it has. You could cast as many Aphotic Wisps as you want on the same creature and they'll all resolve, but only the first one to do so will change the properties of the target creature. You will get to draw a card for each Aphotic Wisps that resolves, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T17:45:59.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32204" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32202" CreationDate="2016-08-25T17:47:32.430" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can target any&lt;sup&gt;*&lt;/sup&gt; creature, it doesn't matter if the creature is black and/or has fear. This is because all the card says is &quot;Target creature&quot;, not something like &quot;Target non-black creature without fear&quot;. Dross Prowler is a creature thus it is a valid target for &quot;Target creature&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.1a&lt;/strong&gt; An instant or sorcery spell is targeted if its spell ability identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],” where the “something” is a phrase that describes an object, player, or zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;*barring things like hexproof, shroud and protection&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T17:47:32.430" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32205" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:02:54.743" Score="2" ViewCount="507" Body="&lt;p&gt;this card game is sort of like super fight but you use cards that have a single word or phrase on each of them. you combine them in the order that you want to go with a topic the &quot;voter&quot; (basically if it was Cards against humanity they would be the black card) draws. then you go around and argue about why your card combination should win. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18188" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T18:39:25.550" Title="what is this card game about making an anime or anime character" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32200" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:14:54.900" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Choosing the flag IS forming the alliance. You can't pick the flag in a two player game because that's not just &quot;Peace&quot; that's &quot;Form an alliance&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T18:14:54.900" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32192" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:17:19.693" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;They can not heal themselves using hearts in Tokyo City/Bay.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T18:17:19.693" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32205" CreationDate="2016-08-25T18:33:58.353" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Channel A&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OIHvr.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/OIHvr.png&quot; alt=&quot;Channel A Box Art&quot; /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://yarukizerogames.com/my-games/channel-a/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Home&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/134637/channel&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; | &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFQnwHfopgg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Video&lt;/a&gt; (NSFW - Skantily clad women)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Phew that took a while to track down. I knew it had &amp;quot;A&amp;quot; in the name somewhere but&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you could make an anime series, what would it be about?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this randomly creative party game you’re part of Channel A’s struggle to come up with an anime series that will be the next big hit. You know what general premise the network wants, and it’s up to you to stitch together a title from random words and pitch a series to win over the fans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T18:39:25.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32209" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32271" CreationDate="2016-08-25T19:32:15.107" Score="11" ViewCount="809" Body="&lt;p&gt;We managed to lose the instructions of this game and cannot remember the name.  It seems similar to Boggle - but has groups of similar cubes, each with the type in a different colour, and a die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttF5G.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttF5G.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;unknown letter cube game&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The box closes the cubes tight so there is no shaking like Boggle. I tried google goggles but with no luck. The box contains the following six-sided dice sets:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;6 White dice: D H A R O and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;4 Grey dice: P C I S N and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Orange dice: F U E T B and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Blue dice: J O E L G and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Purple dice: K V I T L and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Pink dice: Q W E S G and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Yellow dice: V U E T M and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Green dice: X T M Y E and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;2 Red dice: Z Y A W N and a blank. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;and a plain numbered d6&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18190" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:53:44.523" LastActivityDate="2017-03-27T22:35:08.300" Title="Identify an unknown letter cube game (not Boggle)" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32210" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="47379" CreationDate="2016-08-25T19:37:57.320" Score="8" ViewCount="5409" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband and I like Splendor, but once someone manages to get one high level card, the game is pretty much over in minutes. Increasing the number of points you need to win doesn't make the game last much longer, either. And by the end, it's more just who-can-grab-the-card-first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you think of a good alternative way to play? The game is beautiful and I'd like to use it more often if I had a better set of rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18191" LastEditorUserId="18191" LastEditDate="2019-05-22T22:02:07.403" LastActivityDate="2020-12-31T22:26:11.367" Title="Alternative play for Splendor" Tags="|house-rules|splendor|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32211" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32210" CreationDate="2016-08-25T19:54:43.513" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The problem you're describing sounds like &quot;runaway leader&quot;. A lot of games have this problem and a lot of games have worked to solve it. Power Grid for instance affects the leader by giving them a disadvantage. Suburbia slows down progress so people cant speed ahead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can't think of any simple solution but you might try some sort of leading punishment such as giving a token when he buys a two tier card and giving two for a third tier card. Of course that solution might not be balanced. You could try for something like event cards that would benefit someone who wasn't in the lead so if you buy a card you give the other person an event card. You could also try player powers. There are lot ofpotential solutions. Unfortunately most of them are untried and likely unbalanced and most likely inelegant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5614" LastActivityDate="2016-08-25T19:54:43.513" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32210" CreationDate="2016-08-25T20:42:27.253" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think Wolfkin is pretty spot on about it being a feature of the game design. Splendor is really a very simple game. That's not a bad thing, but ultimately you can trade away some of what you're describing in exchange for increased complexity. One way to do that would be to modify the game, as Wolfkin suggested. Another is to try a more complex game with similar mechanics. For example, here is a &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;advsearch=1&amp;amp;objecttype=boardgame&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;include%5Bdesignerid%5D=&amp;amp;geekitemname=&amp;amp;include%5Bpublisherid%5D=&amp;amp;geekitemname=&amp;amp;range%5Byearpublished%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Byearpublished%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bminage%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgrating%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgrating%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bnumvoters%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgweight%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgweight%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bnumweights%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;colfiltertype=&amp;amp;searchuser=Anglophobe&amp;amp;range%5Bminplayers%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bmaxplayers%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;playerrangetype=normal&amp;amp;range%5Bleastplaytime%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bplaytime%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;propertyids%5B%5D=2041&amp;amp;propertyids%5B%5D=2004&amp;amp;B1=Submit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;boardgamegeek query&lt;/a&gt; for games that have a &quot;card drafting&quot; and &quot;set collection&quot; mechanic, like Splendor (you could search for those mechanics separately [OR vs. AND] to come up with even more ideas). I would personally recommend 7 Wonders, although that works best with a third player (it has rules for 2-player, it's just not optimized for it). My wife and I both really enjoy that, as well as Ticket To Ride. Citadels is a bit more combative, which may or may not be to your taste. Explore, and try something that sounds fun to you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T16:30:48.403" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T16:30:48.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32214" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32215" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:22:18.780" Score="0" ViewCount="1071" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've been playing MTG for a while and I just ran into this problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example: Let's say I have a 3/3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrove%20Rumbler%5d&quot;&gt;Grove Rumbler&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent uses a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Strike%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Strike&lt;/a&gt; to deal 3 damage to it making it a 3/0, but I immediately use a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTitanic%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Titanic Growth&lt;/a&gt; to give it a +4/+4 making it become a 7/4. So my question is which happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A. Lightning strike puts Grove Rumbler down to 3/0 immediately putting it into the graveyard due to state based effect and Titanic Growth is wasted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B.Lightning strike puts Grove Rumbler down to 3/0, but Titanic Growth resolves before state based effect putting Grove Rumbler at 7/4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18193" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-25T23:30:12.127" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T16:08:27.870" Title="MTG What happens if a creature's toughness is reduced to 0 but immediately raised?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32214" CreationDate="2016-08-25T23:49:15.847" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, &lt;strong&gt;damage is not the same as toughness reduction&lt;/strong&gt;. After Lightning Strike resolves, the Grove Rumbler is still a 3/3, with 3 damage marked. This still causes the Grove Rumbler to die from state based actions, just for a slightly different reason.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you add Titanic Growth, the outcome depends on exactly when you cast it. If you let the Lightning Strike resolve, then decide to cast Titanic Growth, you &lt;strong&gt;can't&lt;/strong&gt; save the Grove Rumbler, and it plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts Lightning Strike targeting Grove Rumbler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose not to respond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lightning Strike resolves. Grove Rumbler now has 3 damage marked on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions occur. Grove Rumbler has 3 toughness and 3 damage marked, so it dies due to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/State-based_actions&quot;&gt;rule 704.5g&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You now have another opportunity to act. At this point, you can't cast Titanic Growth targeting Grove Rumbler, because Grove Rumbler is already dead.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you decide to cast Titanic Growth &lt;em&gt;in response to&lt;/em&gt; Lightning Strike, you &lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; save the Grove Rumbler, and it plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts Lightning Strike targeting Grove Rumbler.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you cast Titanic Growth targeting Grove Rumbler. Now the stack has Titanic Growth on top of Lightning Strike.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assuming neither of you have any other responses, Titanic Growth resolves. Grove Rumbler is now a 7/7.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Again, assuming neither of you has a response, Lightning Strike resolves. Grove Rumbler now has 3 damage marked on it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions occur. Grove Rumbler has 7 toughness and only 3 damage marked, so nothing happens.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I omitted several irrelevant steps. Each player has an opportunity to act (priority) before each object on the stack resolves, and state-based actions actually occur every time a player gains priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Lightning Strike were replaced with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLast%20Gasp%5d&quot;&gt;Last Gasp&lt;/a&gt; to make the scenario actually involve toughness reduction, each case would play out in pretty much exactly the same way. Grove Rumbler would have a lower power and toughness instead of damage, and it would die because of 704.5f instead of 704.5g. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T16:08:27.870" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T16:08:27.870" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29437" CreationDate="2016-08-26T04:19:22.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under normal circumstances in the physical game, the controller of a Lava Golem can use it to attack. This is why, when I summon one to my opponent's side, I make sure I can prevent it from attacking with cards such as Darkworld Shackles, Shadow Spell, Nightmare Wheel, etc. or just have a Scrap-Iron Scarecrow and hope he/she doesn't summon Jinzo or something of that nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18196" LastEditorUserId="19949" LastEditDate="2017-10-11T21:41:11.333" LastActivityDate="2017-10-11T21:41:11.333" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32201" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:24:05.170" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your game is probably related to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_Color_Cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Four Color Cards&lt;/a&gt; (Tứ sắc in Vietnam) since it uses similar very narrow cards in those colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:24:05.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32218" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32200" CreationDate="2016-08-26T14:48:54.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tl;dr: In a 2-player game, the flag is just a 0.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Both players set [a war die] to a number indicating the total war cost they are willing to incur. &lt;strong&gt;Players must have enough value in resources and ability bonuses when setting the die to pay their chosen war cost.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are attacked and you have no resources or ability bonuses, you are unable to pay any war cost 1 or higher, so the &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; legal move you have is to select the flag. Since this situation is not explicitly listed as an exception in the rules, we may infer that you are allowed to choose the flag in other situations as well. So what happens if both players choose the flag?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player may set their die to the white flag to &lt;strong&gt;offer&lt;/strong&gt; a peaceful alliance; &lt;strong&gt;which requires no cost&lt;/strong&gt; in resources.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If both players chose a white flag, a peaceful alliance &lt;strong&gt;is formed&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players cannot &lt;strong&gt;form&lt;/strong&gt; an alliance in a 2 player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If both players have selected the &lt;strong&gt;same war cost&lt;/strong&gt;, the tie goes to the defender who then becomes the winner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you suggest, the rule that would form an alliance is cancelled by the 2 player exception, so we fall back to the normal tiebreaker and defender wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T14:48:54.087" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32219" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32200" CreationDate="2016-08-26T15:33:03.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/23545331#23545331&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Michael Coe&lt;/a&gt;, the designer of &lt;em&gt;Tiny Epic Kingdoms&lt;/em&gt;, responded to this question and said that it was allowed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Yes, a flag is a zero in 2 player games. If both choose zero, it's a tie and regular rules apply (tie goes to defender).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/15483/benjamin-cosman&quot;&gt;Benjamin Cosman&lt;/a&gt; pointed out in his answer, a player may be forced to choose the flag if they have no resources available, so it would be very problematic for the flag to be disallowed in a two-player game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T15:33:03.927" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28931" CreationDate="2016-08-26T16:07:01.637" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A second action space with that many rewards would make a weapon first strategy very strong.  So what does in enable? Field development, pasture dropping, fence building, furnishing, caverns, tunnels, breeding animals, sowing fields. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without a third person in competition for expeditions, I could see this becoming dominant.  An always dominant strategy in two players games tends to sink them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="4940" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T16:07:01.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32221" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:17:44.057" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Great Heartland Hauling Co.&lt;/em&gt; is a card game involving truck drivers transporting goods across the midwest. It was funded through a Kickstarter driver and released by Dice Hate Me Games in 2013.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/111417/great-heartland-hauling-co&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dicehateme/the-great-heartland-hauling-co-a-card-game-for-2-4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T19:48:12.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:48:12.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32222" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:17:44.057" Score="0" Body="A card game involving truck drivers transporting goods across the midwest." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T19:47:56.247" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:47:56.247" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32223" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:21:54.563" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Spoons&lt;/em&gt; is a matching and bluffing card game involving a deck of cards and a number of ordinary spoons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spoons&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T20:08:07.733" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T20:08:07.733" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32224" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:21:54.563" Score="0" Body="A matching and bluffing card game involving a deck of cards and a number of ordinary spoons" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T20:08:10.497" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T20:08:10.497" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32226" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:25:41.387" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trouble: Despicable Me Edition&lt;/em&gt; is a variant of the game Trouble themed after the &lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Despicable_Me_(franchise)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Despicable Me&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; film franchise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/en-ca/product/trouble-game-despicable-me-edition:0FE66F20-5056-9047-F53E-A59988130B96&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/283449/hasbro-englishfrench-despicable-me-edition&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T20:08:00.243" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T20:08:00.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32227" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:25:41.387" Score="0" Body="A variant of the game Trouble themed after the *Despicable Me* film franchise" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T20:53:05.323" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T20:53:05.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32228" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29063" CreationDate="2016-08-26T19:59:23.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the main rule book from the base set under solo play, any action that you would do to another player you do to yourself if playing solo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18203" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T19:59:23.323" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32229" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-26T20:37:30.457" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Tiny Epic Kingdoms&lt;/em&gt; is a fantasy game in which various races compete collect resources, research magic, and build a tower. After a successful Kickstarter drive, it was released in 2014 by Gamelyn Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/148951/tiny-epic-kingdoms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/coe/tiny-epic-kingdoms&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T21:18:38.060" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T21:18:38.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32230" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-26T20:37:30.457" Score="0" Body="A fantasy game in which various races compete collect resources, research magic, and build a tower." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-26T22:50:21.103" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T22:50:21.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32231" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32210" CreationDate="2016-08-26T23:31:28.967" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I play quite a bit of Splendor, love the game, but I've never run into this problem. Do you each pay attention to the other's gameplay? (that sounds rude, but I promise it's not meant to be!) Do either of you ever sabotage the other? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if I see that my opponent's purchase power leans toward a particular premium card, I snatch that card off the market, along with a wildcard token. I'll score it later. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, if I notice that a particular gemstone is hard to find, I'll buy those up to slow a leading opponent. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Maybe you already do these things. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, try paying closer attention to what your opponent's cache could purchase, at any given time, and if it looks like he could spring ahead by purchasing one of the 4 higher level cards, then snatch that card, along with your wildcard token, and shout, &quot;Punked! B!tch!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That last part is very important. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18205" LastActivityDate="2016-08-26T23:31:28.967" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32232" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32233" CreationDate="2016-08-27T08:08:43.370" Score="1" ViewCount="373" Body="&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRally%20the%20Righteous%5d&quot;&gt;Rally the Righteous&lt;/a&gt;, and I'm wondering: are the creatures (after the first) being targeted to untap and does that affect heroic creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I untap a multicoloured creature, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAnax%20and%20Cymede%5d&quot;&gt;Anax and Cymede&lt;/a&gt;, does it effect red and white creatures or only red white creatures?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18207" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T08:25:21.610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T08:33:21.540" Title="Does Rally the Righteous affect heroic?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32232" CreationDate="2016-08-27T08:29:59.130" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rally the Righteous only targets &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; creature, and so it'll only trigger heroic on that specific creature. It says &quot;untap target creature&quot; &amp;mdash; that's the one that gets targeted. It then further says &quot;and each other creature that shares a color with it&quot; &amp;mdash; but it doesn't say &quot;target&quot; in that phrase anywhere, so you're not targeting any of those other creatures. (If it was targeting, it'd say something ike &quot;each other target creature&quot;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you target a multicolored creature, like the spell says, it'll affect any creature that shares &lt;em&gt;any&lt;/em&gt; color with the one you untap. If you untap a red/white creature, you'll untap red creatures, white creatures, red/white creatures, red/blue, white/black, etc etc &amp;mdash; because all of those have a color of at least red or white.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T08:33:21.540" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T08:33:21.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32235" CreationDate="2016-08-27T14:44:46.027" Score="5" ViewCount="637" Body="&lt;p&gt;The goblins race power is to conquer in-decline regions with one less token. Do Lost Tribes count as in-decline regions? Are Lost Tribes considered an in-decline race?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="212" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T16:36:00.603" Title="Can Goblins conquer Lost Tribe regions for one less token?" Tags="|small-world|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32235" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32234" CreationDate="2016-08-27T16:36:00.603" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Lost Tribes are considered an in-decline race and can be conquered by Goblins with advantage. Lost Tribes tokens have little broken column symbol, which indicates &quot;in-decline&quot; state in game assets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T16:36:00.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32236" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:41:14.220" Score="3" ViewCount="257" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have both &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPrismatic%20Omen%5d&quot;&gt;Prismatic Omen&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGruul%20Turf%5d&quot;&gt;Gruul Turf&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, can I tap the Gruul Turf for two of any land type it's become now, or does it still only add one g and r?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18208" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T19:57:08.400" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T19:58:55.070" Title="Prismatic omen and gruul turf" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32237" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32236" CreationDate="2016-08-27T19:53:24.463" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Gruul Turf will have 6 separate activated abilities. One of them is to tap for RG, the others each tap for 1 mana, 1 ability for each color. So no, you cannot tap for 2 mana of any color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also a note on terminology, tapping a land adds a mana to your pool, it does not add a land or land type. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T19:58:55.070" LastActivityDate="2016-08-27T19:58:55.070" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32238" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32239" CreationDate="2016-08-27T21:16:36.837" Score="5" ViewCount="626" Body="&lt;p&gt;Imagine the following scenario:  My last opponent is at one life. I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPsychosis%20Crawler%5d&quot;&gt;Psychosis Crawler&lt;/a&gt; in play with the ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you draw a card, each opponent loses 1 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have 1 card left in my library and cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDivination%5d&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt;, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw two cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are drawn one at a time. So after the first draw, Psychosis Crawler triggers and my opponent loses his/her last point of life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I am not sure what happens next. Both rules for losing the game apply:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;104.3b&lt;/strong&gt; If a player’s life total is 0 or less, he or she loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;104.3c&lt;/strong&gt; If a player is required to draw more cards than are left in his or her library, he or she draws the remaining cards, and then loses the game the next time a player would receive priority. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18210" LastEditorUserId="1855" LastEditDate="2016-08-27T22:50:35.513" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T19:58:46.900" Title="Divination and Psychosis Crawler" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32238" CreationDate="2016-08-27T21:22:09.927" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;You'll lose here. You're trying to draw too many cards before your opponent loses any life. (Your statement &quot;after the first draw ... the opponent loses their last point of life&quot; is where you went astray.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Psychosis Crawler does trigger off your card draw, but you lose the game when state-based actions are checked, before the trigger resolves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (see rule 116, “Timing and Priority”), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. If any state-based actions are performed as a result of a check, the check is repeated; otherwise all triggered abilities that are waiting to be put on the stack are put on the stack, then the check is repeated. Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority. This process also occurs during the cleanup step (see rule 514), except that if no statebased actions are performed as the result of the step’s first check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, then no player gets priority and the step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent doesn't lose life until the triggers &lt;em&gt;resolve&lt;/em&gt;, so you draw your two cards before your opponent loses any life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be specific, what happens is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw your first card. (Psychosis Crawler triggers, but the ability isn't on the stack yet.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You try to draw your second card, but can't, and now you're going to lose the game the next time state-based actions are checked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State-based actions are checked, and you lose the game. (Your opponent hasn't lost any life yet.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For you both to lose the game, resulting in a draw, the card draw and loss of life would have to be part of the resolution of the spell. For example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=25918&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Urza's Guilt&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player draws two cards, then discards three cards, then loses 4 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;could cause you to draw too many cards, and your opponent to fall to zero life, then you'd both lose at the same time after the spell resolves (when state-based actions are checked), and the game would be a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T19:58:46.900" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T19:58:46.900" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32248" CreationDate="2016-08-27T22:08:47.697" Score="3" ViewCount="778" Body="&lt;p&gt;The description of the Machine Gun card says: &quot;Your attack will affect all characters in your attack range.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that the player himself gets damaged as well? That wouldn't make much sense logically from a machine gun, but the rules seem pretty clear about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18211" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:08:22.380" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T16:08:21.127" Title="Does the Machine Gun also affect the player using it?" Tags="|shadow-hunters|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32244" CreationDate="2016-08-28T18:36:09.117" Score="2" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Star Wars Rebellion, the Board Game, can the empire retreat from a battle to the system containing the unrevealed rebel base?  Assume that the battle takes place adjacent to the system containing the unrevealed rebel base, there are no imperial systems adjacent to the battle site, and there are no units or loyalty of any kind on the system on which the rebel base is hidden.  Also assume that the empire is bringing ground forces with them on this retreat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is how this situation happened:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;As the empire, I captured a rebel turn 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On turn 2, I used Homing Beacon on the captured prisoner to reveal the sector of the rebel base, Planetary Conquest to conquer a planet in the sector, and then deployed two assault carriers from the build queue to this newly conquered planet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;On turn 3, the rebels attacked me with all of the ships they had, including fighters from the rebel base (which was adjacent to where I had landed).  I still had an assault carrier left after the first round of combat and decided to retreat with it and all my ground forces (an AT-AT and two Stormtroopers).  As a result of this setup, there were no adjacent imperial systems, so I was allowed to retreat to an unoccupied system, and the system containing the rebel base had no units in it nor rebel loyalty.  The planet I picked to retreat to was the planet containing the rebel base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a valid retreat, and if so, what happens?  Does it change if the rebels versus the empire initiate the combat next to the rebel base?  Does it matter that rebel units in the combat came from the rebel base?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2021-07-13T14:48:45.130" LastActivityDate="2021-07-13T14:48:45.130" Title="Retreating to the unrevealed rebel base" Tags="|star-wars-rebellion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32243" CreationDate="2016-08-28T18:36:09.117" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the rebel player has not revealed their base before the beginning of combat, and the system it is on is unoccupied, it is a valid retreat location.  This is true regardless of which player's turn it is or whether or not units involved in the combat came from the rebel base.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Justification&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for retreat state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player must choose to retreat to a system that contains his units or&#xA;  one of his loyalty markers, if able. He cannot retreat to a system&#xA;  that contains his opponent’s units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If there are no adjacent systems containing his units or loyalty markers, he can retreat to any adjacent system that does not contain&#xA;  units.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A player cannot retreat to a system that his opponent moved units from to initiate the combat&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meanwhile, the rules for the rebel base state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The “Rebel Base” space is not a system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Imperial ground units move into the system, the base is revealed&#xA;  after all movement is completed, before resolving combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Rebel player may optionally reveal his base at any time during one&#xA;  of his turns of the Command Phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the rebel base is not a system, units coming from it to participate in combat do not change the situation since units must come from a system to impose a retreat restriction (&quot;A player cannot retreat to a &lt;strong&gt;system&lt;/strong&gt; that his opponent moved units from&quot;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also as a result of the rebel base not being a system, as long as it is unrevealed, it does not change the retreat eligibility of the system on which it is hidden.  If the rebel base is not revealed and the system on which it is hidden is unoccupied and neutral, then it is a valid retreat location for the empire (so long as there are no imperial systems adjacent to the battle).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the empire retreats with ground forces, the base is revealed as a a result of having imperial ground forces there and a second battle will ensue.  If the empire still has some forces (such as tie fighters or other ground troops) in the first battle location, the first battle should be concluded before beginning the second rebel base battle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rebels initiated the combat next to their base however, things get a little more complicated because this combat occurs during the rebels' turn.  One consequence of this is that if the empire retreats to the rebels base, the rebels will go first in the resulting combat because it is still their turn (despite the fact that the empire was the one that moved the units that initiated combat).  But more importantly, on the rebels' turn the rebels can reveal their base before initiating combat to prevent it from being a valid imperial retreat location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the July 2016 FAQ errated away the very problematic &quot;at any time&quot; phrasing in when the rebels could reveal their base.  It now reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the Rebel player wishes to optionally reveal his base, he can only&#xA;  do so at the start of one of his turns of the Command Phase, before&#xA;  using one of his leaders.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the rebels do not reveal their base before attacking an imperial fleet next to their base, however, the empire can still retreat to their base's system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Aside&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the errata to when the rebels could reveal their base, the &quot;at any time&quot; clause lead to a glaring timing question, with two possible interpretations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;By the point at which the empire has declared a retreat to the rebel base, it will happen; if the rebel player wants to prevent the empire from retreating to the rebel base, they must reveal the base before the empire declares their retreat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the empire declares a retreat to the rebel base, the rebel player can chose to reveal the base in response and invalidate the retreat.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The original rules didn't clarify on this point, but drawing on timing philosophy from other games actually leads to the same result as the errata gives us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two primary philosophies for timing conflicts in games: stacks (such as in Magic the Gathering) and priority queues (like Android Netrunner).  In a stack system, a player can use an &quot;any time&quot; action to respond to another player's action and the responding effect happens first.  Stacks are &quot;last in first out&quot;.  In a priority queue system, players can only have their action happen first if the rules specifically define it as superseding the other player's action (such as preventing damage in Netrunner), and otherwise it resolves after.  Queues are &quot;first in first out&quot;, unless one thing is given preference by a specific rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules of Star Wars Rebellion give a lot of clear indicators that it is a priority queue game in terms of timing.  Every part of the game where players interact, there is a defined order for the action, the reaction, and the resolution.  Even with combat tactics cards, there is a separate step during which the recipient of damage gets to play damage block cards, meaning even one of the most classic interrupting actions (blocking damage) must be played in its specific order defined by the rules.  The conclusion of this is that option 1 (defined above) is the case; if the rebels want to prevent the empire from retreating to the rebel base, they must reveal their base before the empire decides where to retreat.  The errata supports this theory by specifying a time in the turn order when the rebels can reveal their base that is distinctly before any other actions that would be impacted by this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-09-06T23:45:10.113" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T23:45:10.113" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32245" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-28T18:46:19.827" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Star Wars Rebellion was released by Fantasy Flight Games in 2016.  It can be played with 2 to 4 players.  The game has two teams: the rebels and the empire.  The empire's goal is to find and destroy the hidden rebel base before time runs out.  The rebels, while trying to keep their base protected, can also reduce the time left for the empire by accomplishing secret objectives.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T22:19:16.923" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T22:19:16.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32246" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-28T18:46:19.827" Score="0" Body="Star Wars Rebellion is a board game for 2 to 4 players made by Fantasy Flight, where the empire tries to find and destroy the hidden rebel base before the rebellion can accomplish enough of their secret objectives to overthrow the empire." OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-08-28T22:19:22.413" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T22:19:22.413" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32247" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-28T19:19:32.863" Score="0" ViewCount="2510" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I'll allow for the possibility that I'm just no good at the game, first I need to make sure I'm not just doing something wrong. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having tried 7-8 times, I have not been able to even come close to winning the first quest in the Core Set as a solo player. Most of my games I'm not able to get a single advancement token on the first stage. Playing as a single player with just three heroes, the numbers seem stacked against me to be able to effectively quest and still attack and defend that round. The enemies pile up, or the threat tracker gets to 50 after a few rounds of holding the monsters back, or I have no choice but to take undefended damage and lose my heroes. I'm all good with having a challenging game, but for a quest with a difficulty level 1, explicitly described as an &quot;introductory scenario,&quot; I have to wonder: is this meant to be played one player, with a single set of three heroes? It doesn't seem possible to generate enough willpower, attack strength, or resources. The rulebook doesn't address single player mode at all, so if not, what are the official solo play rules?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update:&lt;/strong&gt; Upon further research and playing, I think I can safely attribute most of my failures to an underestimation of the importance of traveling to and exploring locations. While still not a total breeze, it made threat level much more manageable. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="8448" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T15:17:33.110" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T11:54:23.243" Title="Is solo play meant to use just 3 heroes?" Tags="|the-lord-of-the-rings-lcg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32240" CreationDate="2016-08-28T19:39:40.170" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No the machine gun does not attack you as well. When you attack you can only attack other players and it specifies that in the rules. The only time you can do damage to yourself is on weird woods and when a card says you can target any player with damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem with being able to damage yourself with the machine gun is that there are roles that want to die first and being able to damage yourself like that would make it to easy to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/en-shadowhunter-rules-2015.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attack other player(s)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-08-28T19:39:40.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32249" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32250" CreationDate="2016-08-28T23:45:17.207" Score="5" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;Long question short: Can I kill an un-transformed &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArchangel%20Avacyn%5d&quot;&gt;Archangel Avacyn&lt;/a&gt; during the upkeep she's due to flip, before she flips?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From how I understand it (copied by from a comment from murgatroid99):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A non-Angel creature dies. Archangel Avacyn's triggered ability goes on the stack. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Archangel Avacyn's triggered ability resolves, and creates a delayed      triggered ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;At the beginning of the next upkeep, the delayed triggered ability goes on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Could I, for example, cast an instant like Lightning Axe at this point, and deal 5 damage to the currently 4/4 Avacyn? Thus preventing the transformation and the damage that is dealt on the flip?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for any help in advanced!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18216" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T02:11:16.927" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T02:11:16.927" Title="Killing Avacyn Before She Transforms During Upkeep?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32249" CreationDate="2016-08-29T01:38:37.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yep, this works just like you think it does. Avacyn's delayed trigger goes on the stack, you have a chance to respond and kill her. If you do, she can't transform, so the triggered ability does nothing as it resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T01:38:37.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32251" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:20:30.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Simply Catan&lt;/em&gt; is a simplified version of &lt;em&gt;Catan&lt;/em&gt; designed for faster set up and play time. It was published in 2016 by SimplyFun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24511/simply-catan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See Also:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/catan&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;catan&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;catan&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T16:53:42.727" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T16:53:42.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32252" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:20:30.517" Score="0" Body="A simplified version of Catan designed for faster set up and play time." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T16:53:45.897" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T16:53:45.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32253" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:34:26.060" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;King of New York&lt;/em&gt; is a spin-off of King of Tokyo in which monsters rampage through the boroughs of New York. It was first published in 2014 by IELLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/160499/king-new-york&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;See Also:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;/questions/tagged/king-of-tokyo&quot; class=&quot;post-tag&quot; title=&quot;show questions tagged &amp;#39;king-of-tokyo&amp;#39;&quot; rel=&quot;tag&quot;&gt;king-of-tokyo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T18:08:14.500" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T18:08:14.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32254" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:34:26.060" Score="0" Body="A spin-off of King of Tokyo in which monsters rampage through the boroughs of New York." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T18:41:56.407" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T18:41:56.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32255" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:41:11.103" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;War&lt;/em&gt; is a two-player card game commonly played by children in which the goal is to win all of the cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/War_(card_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T18:08:04.473" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T18:08:04.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32256" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-29T16:41:11.103" Score="0" Body="A two-player card game commonly played by children in which the goal is to win all of the cards." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T18:08:07.610" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T18:08:07.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32258" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:45:31.490" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Monarch&lt;/em&gt; is a fantasy game involving siblings competing to inherit the crown and become the next monarch. After a successful Kickstarter drive, it was released in 2015 by Mary Flanagan LLC.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/173115/monarch&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/maryflanagan/monarch-board-game-vie-for-the-crown&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:59:27.050" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:59:27.050" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32259" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-29T19:45:31.490" Score="0" Body="A fantasy game involving siblings competing to inherit the crown and become the next monarch." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T21:59:36.530" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T21:59:36.530" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32260" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-29T21:36:12.440" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Welcome to the Dungeon&lt;/em&gt; is a press your luck game where players push each others to go further into the dungeon with less equipment. In 2013, it was published in Japanese as &lt;em&gt;Dungeon of Mandom&lt;/em&gt; by I Was Game and later Oink Games. It was published in English as &lt;em&gt;Welcome to the Dungeon&lt;/em&gt; in 2015 by IELLO.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/150312/welcome-dungeon&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T23:21:05.613" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:21:05.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32261" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-29T21:36:12.440" Score="0" Body="A press your luck game where players push each others to go further into the dungeon with less equipment. Formerly known as &quot;Dungeon of Mandom&quot;." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T23:21:19.807" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:21:19.807" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32262" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-08-29T21:41:10.933" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12942/no-thanks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;No Thanks!&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/em&gt; is a simple card game based around collecting sets or runs of cards ranging from 3 to 35. The English edition was first published in 2005 by AMIGO Spiel + Freizeit GmbH and Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from translations of its name, it's also known as &amp;quot;Geschenkt... ist noch zu teuer!&amp;quot; in Germany, which translates to &amp;quot;for free is still too dear&amp;quot;, and &amp;quot;Gesjaakt!&amp;quot; in The Netherlands, which roughly translates to &amp;quot;screwed&amp;quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;External Links:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12942/no-thanks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="6352" LastEditDate="2022-02-25T14:08:36.650" LastActivityDate="2022-02-25T14:08:36.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32263" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-08-29T21:41:10.933" Score="0" Body="A simple card game based around collecting sets or runs of cards ranging from 3 to 35." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-08-29T23:21:15.803" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T23:21:15.803" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32264" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32265" CreationDate="2016-08-29T21:58:14.423" Score="3" ViewCount="592" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrisela%2c%20Voice%20of%20Nightmares%5d&quot;&gt;Brisela, Voice of Nightmares&lt;/a&gt; and my opponent tries to cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoldaren%20Pariah%5d&quot;&gt;Voldaren Pariah&lt;/a&gt; for its madness cost of BBB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would the rule in Brisela, &quot;Your opponents can't cast spells with converted mana cost 3 or less&quot; stop my opponent from doing that?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18223" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-01T16:58:16.673" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T16:58:16.673" Title="Can my opponent play a madness cost of 3 or below if &quot;Brisela, Voice of Nightmares&quot; is in play?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32264" CreationDate="2016-08-29T22:03:29.590" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, Brisela will not prevent your opponent from casting Volarden Pariah for its madness cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Mana cost&amp;quot;, and by extension &amp;quot;converted mana cost&amp;quot; specifically refers to the cost printed at the top of the card. The relevant rules are &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_cost#Rules&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.1.&lt;/strong&gt; A card’s mana cost is indicated by mana symbols near the top of the card. (See rule 107.4.) [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3.&lt;/strong&gt; The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Volarden Pariah always has a mana cost of {3}{B}{B}, and a converted mana cost of 5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T22:03:29.590" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32266" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32247" CreationDate="2016-08-29T22:41:55.600" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are supposed to play as a single player, i.e. with 3 Heroes one your side and drawing a &lt;em&gt;single&lt;/em&gt; card from the encounter deck each turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pre-constructed decks in the game are unfortunately not the best and at the same time, the game is quite hard (even the beginner scenarios). Both combined can lead to your frustrating experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is a link to a guide for solo players who are new to the game: &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/blogpost/16397/guide-new-lotrlcg-solo-players&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/blogpost/16397/guide-new-lotrlcg-solo-players&lt;/a&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;This should help you in getting started and get over the steep learning curve, which this game definitely has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14326" LastActivityDate="2016-08-29T22:41:55.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32267" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-08-30T03:26:33.307" Score="3" ViewCount="866" Body="&lt;p&gt;I usually break them as soon as I can't follow suit but others have told me that's not &quot;appropriate.&quot;   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, when is it appropriate to play the Queen of Spades? I usually do the same, play it when I have my first opportunity to do so.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18227" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-08-30T05:16:57.260" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:18:09.687" Title="When is it best to break Hearts?" Tags="|hearts|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32268" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32267" CreationDate="2016-08-30T08:43:53.313" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of things that are important when deciding what to play when you can't follow a suit:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it at all likely you can take all the points with this hand? Then don't throw any points at your opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Are there any cards you need to get rid of to avoid catching points yourself? Examples are the Ace or King of Spades, or a high Diamond. When you have a lot of Diamonds, chances are others can't follow Diamonds and throw in points themselves when you are forced to play the Ace. This can become very costly if all you have is more Diamonds to play. If you still had that little Heart that you threw out instead of Ace of Diamonds, you could have played that and forced another player to take it. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is it possible that the opponent taking the first point, takes all the points? Sometimes you'll regret tossing away that one point when you get 26 added to your score at the end of the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Does the ability to lead Hearts give an escape to a player? If a player is forced to lead Spades (and cut in on his own AK in Spades) because he isn't allowed to play Hearts yet, that might be an advantage also.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conclusion: Don't automatically break Hearts when you can't follow suit. Think of the long-term game, there's plenty of tricks still coming.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-12-29T15:18:09.687" LastActivityDate="2016-12-29T15:18:09.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31473" CreationDate="2016-08-30T11:16:37.163" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hactar go &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.gowrite.hactarLite&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.gowrite.hactarLite&lt;/a&gt; (android application) offers darkforest as opponent (darkforest running on server side). Not free, but 2€/3 month subscription.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18229" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T11:16:37.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32271" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32209" CreationDate="2016-08-30T21:39:19.507" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's probably cubeword.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Check it here: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27935/cubeword&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/27935/cubeword&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5094" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T21:39:19.507" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32272" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21341" CreationDate="2016-08-30T22:34:04.780" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are situations where &quot;board plays,&quot; in which case it would be a tie. This is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; one of those situations.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A &quot;board plays&quot; situation would be something like A♠ K♠ Q♠ J♠ T♠ (your friend would have to have the 9♠ or 8♠ against your 7♠). That is to say that the board represents the best possible hand. Here, your pocket cards are &quot;void.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason &quot;board plays&quot; does not apply is because his T♠ and your 7♠ both improve the board. Therefore, these respective pocket cards are not &quot;void.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both your holdings replace the 2♠. His hand is, 6♠ 8♠ Q♠ J♠ T♠. Your hand is 6♠ 8♠ Q♠ J♠ 7♠. His hand is better because T♠ beats 7♠ (when you compare the two hands),&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T22:34:04.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32273" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32274" CreationDate="2016-08-30T22:50:21.420" Score="14" ViewCount="1702" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMillikin%5d&quot;&gt;Millikin&lt;/a&gt; and 4 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSelvala%2c%20Explorer%20Returned%5d&quot;&gt;Selvala, Explorer Returned&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield (via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirror%20Gallery%5d&quot;&gt;Mirror Gallery&lt;/a&gt;), and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPanglacial%20Wurm%5d&quot;&gt;Panglacial Wurm&lt;/a&gt; in my library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I start searching my library, without shuffling. (because of some spell or ability)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to cast the Wurm, but I need all 4 Selvalas to generate mana. Can I make decisions based on what order to activate the Millikins and Selvalas in based on the top cards of my library? Can I even see the top cards before I cast the Wurm?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T23:24:17.380" Title="Can I make decisions while searching my library based on what order it is in?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32274" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32273" CreationDate="2016-08-30T23:24:17.380" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can decide the order in which to activate mana abilities based on knowledge about the order of your library. You can also decide whether to cast the Wurm based on knowledge about the order of your library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, the keyword action &amp;quot;Search&amp;quot; is defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Search&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 701.15a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To search for a card in a zone, look at all cards in that zone (even if it’s a hidden zone) and find a card that matches the given description.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the following are rulings on Panglacial Wurm in Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Panglacial Wurm’s ability works only while you’re searching your own library. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you want to cast Panglacial Wurm while searching your library, you must do so before you find any cards with the search effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Together, these strongly imply that you can choose to cast Panglacial Wurm after you have looked at all of the cards in your library and before you have &amp;quot;found&amp;quot; any of them. So, you can absolutely use the information available at that time when making that choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, Panglacial Wurm has another ruling that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While searching your library, you must keep your library in the same order until you shuffle it. &lt;strong&gt;This order could matter if you tap Millikin for mana, for example, to pay for a Panglacial Wurm you cast from your library.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, in the process of casting a spell, one of the last steps is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;601.2g&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the total cost includes a mana payment, the player then has a chance to activate mana abilities (see rule 605, “Mana Abilities”). Mana abilities must be activated before costs are paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's nothing in that rule about simultaneous activation, or what order things happen in, so the obvious interpretation is that at this time you can activate and resolve mana abilities sequentially in any order you choose, like any other action in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you can do that, you can activate the Millikins and Selvalas in the order you choose to maximize the mana you get, taking into account the information about the library order that you have.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-30T23:24:17.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32275" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32277" CreationDate="2016-08-31T02:07:04.787" Score="2" ViewCount="1415" Body="&lt;p&gt;I played a multiplayer game of magic today that had a very interesting turn. The game was a five player game with your allies being the player to your left and right and your opponents were the people across from you. On of my allies ended up getting a Wall of Resistance and would gain +1 toughness at the end of a turn after damage was dealt to it. I decided to attack my ally with this ability with a 1/1 creature to strengthen it, but the other ally said I couldn't due to it being an ally. Right after that, the same ally used Rootwater Hunter's tap ability to damage that same 1/1 creature and kill it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me, these two action seem equal and if one action can't be allowed then the other shouldn't. Since this was the pivoting point of the game I would like to the actual rules and how they apply to each situation. So can you attack an ally and can you target an ally with an effect that deals damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18234" LastEditorUserId="18234" LastEditDate="2016-08-31T03:35:32.303" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T16:23:27.133" Title="Can you attack/deal damage an ally?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32275" CreationDate="2016-08-31T02:52:25.990" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It sounds as if you were playing something similar to &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Star&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the &lt;em&gt;Star&lt;/em&gt; format&lt;/a&gt; (though it sounds like you didn't use the color restrictions). The comprehensive rules don't have anything about it, so we have to rely on the group just agreeing on an interpretation. Wizards did list the rules for many popular casual MtG formats in &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/casual-formats-2008-08-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;an article&lt;/a&gt; written in 2008.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players sit in a star pattern identical to the one on the back of every Magic: The Gathering card. The player with the white deck takes the first turn and then play continues clockwise around the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A color, and the player representing it, wins when its two enemy colors have been eliminated regardless of who eliminated them. This means a player may be able to win even after being eliminated from play! &lt;strong&gt;Each player can attack any other player (even their allies)&lt;/strong&gt;, and each player can target any player, permanent, spell, or anything else in the game. Decks are usually built following Standard deck-construction rules, but players can determine for themselves if they'd rather use Extended, Legacy, Vintage, or any other format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the articles above, it seems like the typical way is no restrictions on targeting or attacking your allies. This makes sense, since your allies aren't your teammates as the rules define teams. I'd say you had every right to attack your ally like you wanted to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T16:23:27.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32278" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32280" CreationDate="2016-08-31T03:21:42.283" Score="7" ViewCount="452" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIndestructibility%5d&quot;&gt;Indestructibility&lt;/a&gt; attached to a land I control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted permanent has indestructible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I try to use the second ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSimic%20Guildmage%5d&quot;&gt;Simic Guildmage&lt;/a&gt; to attatch the Indestructibility to itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Attach target Aura enchanting a permanent to another permanent with the same controller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T04:07:42.610" Title="Can an Aura be attached to itself?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32279" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32278" CreationDate="2016-08-31T03:23:53.610" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Indestructibility will go to it's owner's graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4d An Aura can’t enchant itself. If this occurs somehow, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. An Aura that’s also a creature can’t enchant anything. If this occurs somehow, the Aura becomes unattached, then is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T03:23:53.610" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32280" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32278" CreationDate="2016-08-31T04:07:42.610" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot do as you described, there is a ruling on Simic Guildmage (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For the second ability, only the Aura is targeted. When the ability resolves, you choose a permanent to move the Aura onto. It can’t be the permanent the Aura is already attached to, it must be controlled by the player who controls the permanent the Aura is attached to, and &lt;strong&gt;it must be able to be enchanted by the Aura&lt;/strong&gt;. (It doesn’t matter who controls the Aura or who controls Simic Guildmage.) If no such permanent exists, the Aura doesn’t move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you cannot attach an Aura to itself due to rule 303.4d you cannot choose to attach Indestructibility to itself:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4d An Aura can’t enchant itself. If this occurs somehow, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. An Aura that’s also a creature can’t enchant anything. If this occurs somehow, the Aura becomes unattached, then is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if you could make that choice, the Aura would not move due to rule 303.4j:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4j If an effect attempts to attach an Aura on the battlefield to an object or player it can’t legally enchant, the Aura doesn’t move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T04:07:42.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32281" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32287" CreationDate="2016-08-31T14:10:38.017" Score="1" ViewCount="1613" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crabsadjusthumidity.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Crabs Adjust Humidity&lt;/a&gt; is a cardgame just like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cardsagainsthumanity.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cards Against Humanity&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the cards be shuffled and used as an expansion pack? Or are there other differences which prevent this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(PS: Are they equally fun? Or should I just refrain from buying Crabs Adjust Humidity?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18242" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T12:54:03.783" Title="Can &quot;Crabs Adjust Humidity&quot; be used as an expansion to &quot;Cards Against Humanity&quot;?" Tags="|cards-against-humanity|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32282" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32281" CreationDate="2016-08-31T15:42:56.930" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Seeing as it's billed as an &quot;unofficial expansion to Cards Against Humanity&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.crabsadjusthumidity.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;see website&lt;/a&gt;), I think the answer must be &quot;yes&quot;. That said, it does appear the card backs are different, so you may need to slap everything into opaque-back sleeves to make it work really well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2016-08-31T15:42:56.930" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32283" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32288" CreationDate="2016-09-01T00:45:38.170" Score="2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a followup to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31963/in-a-four-person-game-of-quoridor-can-a-player-be-forced-to-pass-a-turn&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;, what happens in the following two scenarios? In each, the turn order is Green -&gt; Red -&gt; Blue -&gt; Yellow, and no pictured player has any fences left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Is Red allowed to play the purple fence? If so, what happens over the next two moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWdbI.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/JWdbI.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Quoridor board inset where Yellow and Green are in a dead end and Blue may be forced to move downward and block Yellow&amp;#39;s escape.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) Is Red allowed to move their pawn downward? If so, what happens over the next two moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPSPC.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/CPSPC.png&quot; alt=&quot;A Quoridor board inset similar to the above.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In both scenarios, it seems like if you allow the move in question, Blue is forced to move downward as the next move, and then Yellow has no legal moves. The options I see are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Escape both scenarios through increasingly tortured readings of the existing rules. For example, in scenario 1 say that the fence placement is somehow banned by the fences-can't-completely-block-people rule (even though in a different turn order it would be ok), and in scenario 2 say that Red and Blue can move down and then Yellow can somehow use the diagonal jump rule to move to Red's former location (even though that rule only applies if there's a fence in the way, not a player).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Accept that the current rules aren't quite sufficient and change them. My vote would be for &quot;In the rare event that a player has no legal move, their turn is skipped.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:19:47.920" Title="More four-player Quoridor shenanigans" Tags="|quoridor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32284" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32286" CreationDate="2016-09-01T03:28:25.493" Score="9" ViewCount="2062" Body="&lt;p&gt;If someone surrenders because they saw something in their graveyard because of a mill effect, for example a &quot;mill half your deck&quot; effect sends all of the enemy win conditions to the graveyard, am I allowed to see the graveyard if I request it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also if I request to see the graveyard can the enemy check the graveyard before me and decide to surrender instead of showing me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18246" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T04:32:19.910" Title="If someone surrenders can I check their graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32285" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31979" CreationDate="2016-09-01T04:02:31.060" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the SAMPLE PLAY section it says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Bob says, &quot;I have a &lt;strong&gt;Clothes Card&lt;/strong&gt; I can spare for you.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hints that you can share information about what cards you have before you play them. Frankly I don't see how it is winnable without some supply card teamwork. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18247" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T04:02:31.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32286" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32284" CreationDate="2016-09-01T04:32:19.910" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;Once a player concedes they aren't required to show you their graveyard, as at the same time the player leaves the game so does their graveyard (rule &lt;strong&gt;800.4a.&lt;/strong&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While rule &lt;strong&gt;400.2.&lt;/strong&gt; means that you can look at their graveyard at any time because it's a public zone, rulings relating to &lt;strong&gt;104.3a.&lt;/strong&gt; mean that a player can concede prior to actually showing you the graveyard after you have requested to see it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, as the cards that are being milled are entering a public zone it is entirely within your rights to ask to view them as they enter the graveyard, again the player can concede at this point, but you may be more likely to see what's being milled if you view the cards at the same time as the other player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Related rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;104.3a.&lt;/strong&gt; A player can concede the game at any time. A player who concedes leaves the game immediately. He or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;400.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Public zones are zones in which all players can see the cards’ faces, except for those cards that some rule or effect specifically allow to be face down. Graveyard, battlefield, stack, exile, ante, and command are public zones. Hidden zones are zones in which not all players can be expected to see the cards’ faces. Library and hand are hidden zones, even if all the cards in one such zone happen to be revealed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4a.&lt;/strong&gt; When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game, any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end, and all spells and abilities controlled by that player on the stack cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T04:32:19.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32287" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32281" CreationDate="2016-09-01T12:54:03.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both Crabs against Humidity and Guards against Insanity. They can be mixed with Cards against Humanity. They have different backs but that is not a real problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, I think the original (and the original expansions 1 to 6) are better. I use the following arguments:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of the unofficial expansion cards are probably targetted to the younger public and as such have a lot of references to sex and nudity. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some white cards have a limited use. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A lot of black cards have 2 or three blanks so you run out of white cards fast.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards are almost duplicates of cards from the original series.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T12:54:03.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32288" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32283" CreationDate="2016-09-01T14:59:38.860" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It’s another interesting problems that you submit here&#xA;For the First one, &#xA;you're right, in this situation yellow must skip his turn, the rules with all the differents explanations implied that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For the second case,&#xA;It’s quite easy when you refers to the rules and it’s not a tortured reading of the rules you just have to follow the legal move in the Fig 10 (fig who show the legal move in a case of a jump with two pawn in front of you )&#xA;Yellow can escape in jumping in the upper square of the red pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17975" LastActivityDate="2016-09-01T14:59:38.860" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32290" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32336" CreationDate="2016-09-02T10:57:28.697" Score="2" ViewCount="1841" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quarto has a set of basic rules which describes the winner as the one who align 4 pieces sharing a common trait. The alignment can be horizontal, vertical or diagonal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An advanced rule states that if 4 pieces share a trait and are disposed to form a 2*2 square then it is a winning position. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The board being 4*4, the advanced rule adds 9 winning positions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is a draw possible with this advance rule ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14864" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T18:22:45.410" Title="Is a draw possible in Quarto with the advanced rules?" Tags="|quarto|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32291" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32247" CreationDate="2016-09-02T11:54:23.243" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lord of the Ring LCG is hard as hell when played solo. The first few times I was close to desperation. :-)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most scenarios are definitely easier when played with 2 hero-parties instead of only 1, but this actually is not the way a solo-play is supposed to be and it can get difficult to handle anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now what I can tell you: the 4 base sets are not equally strong. In the core-scenarios, it's much easier to win with &quot;lore&quot; than with &quot;tactics&quot; or &quot;leadership&quot;. So I suggest to start with Lore and the first quest.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What I also found helpful was the &quot;Watch it played&quot;-playthrough on Youtube. It's very well done.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80gFPirxZA0&amp;amp;list=PL7691E24FD7613341&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80gFPirxZA0&amp;amp;list=PL7691E24FD7613341&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17761" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T11:54:23.243" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32292" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32350" CreationDate="2016-09-02T15:17:30.027" Score="6" ViewCount="6262" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are a few board games that are the exactly the same as each other, but have different names. For instance, &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reversi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reversi&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wikihow.com/Play-Othello&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Othello&lt;/a&gt; are exactly the same game, but the latter is a trademarked name. Similarly, Star Halma and Chinese Checkers are exactly the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a result of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.meta.stackexchange.com/q/1520/3389&quot;&gt;a recent meta discussion&lt;/a&gt; on tag synonyms, I'm wondering: is Parcheesi simply an alternate name for Pachisi? Or are they significantly different games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My initial searches were inconclusive. According to Board Game Geek, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2136/pachisi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;they are the same game&lt;/a&gt;. However, there are separate Wikipedia articles for &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parcheesi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Parcheesi&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pachisi&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pachisi&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="29415" LastEditDate="2022-06-16T21:04:04.570" LastActivityDate="2022-06-16T21:04:04.570" Title="Is Parcheesi simply an alternate name for Pachisi? Or are they significantly different games?" Tags="|pachisi|parcheesi|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32293" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15015" CreationDate="2016-09-02T16:20:49.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Due that I'm not familiar with the type of Deck you have&lt;/em&gt; I'll add various card suggestions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I couldn't find other card than &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Frost_Blast_of_the_Monarchs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Frost Blast Of The Monarchs&lt;/a&gt; that could be useful for your Deck and matches with your requirements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another options could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 1: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Pseudo_Space&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Pseudo Space&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Once per turn, &lt;strong&gt;you can remove from play 1 Field Spell Card in your Graveyard&lt;/strong&gt; to have this card be treated as that card, and gain the same effects until the End Phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Terraforming&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Terraforming&lt;/a&gt;&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Option 2: &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Shuffle_Reborn&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shuffle Reborn&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you control no monsters: Target 1 monster in your Graveyard; Special Summon it, but its effects are negated, also banish it during the End Phase. &lt;strong&gt;You can banish this card from your Graveyard&lt;/strong&gt;, then target 1 card you control; shuffle it into the Deck, then draw 1 card, also during the End Phase of this turn, banish 1 card from your hand. You can only use this effect of &quot;Shuffle Reborn&quot; once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategy:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Don't set monsters on the field in the turn you use this card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have &lt;em&gt;(al least)&lt;/em&gt; 1 monster card in the Graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have &lt;em&gt;(al least)&lt;/em&gt; 1 card in your hand for banish.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Notes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All previous cards can be &lt;strong&gt;used once per turn&lt;/strong&gt;, but if you use these cards together, you can get the results that you desired.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can still use &lt;strong&gt;Chaosrider Gustaph&lt;/strong&gt; o &lt;strong&gt;Spell Striker&lt;/strong&gt; and other cards that allows you get back your summoned monsters to your hand &lt;em&gt;like Spirit monster cards&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you're interested, you can check this &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Banishes_from_Graveyard#All_OCG.2FTCG_.22Banishes_from_Graveyard.22_cards&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;link from Yu-Gi-Oh! Wikia&lt;/a&gt; that lists all cards that banishes from your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can play with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/index.php?title=Special%3AAsk&amp;amp;q=%5B%5BClass%201%3A%3AOfficial%5D%5D%5B%5BCard%20category%3A%3AMonster%20Card%5D%5D%20%5B%5BRFP%3A%3ABanishes%20from%20Graveyard%7C%7CBanishes%20from%20your%20Graveyard%7C%7CBanishes%20from%20Graveyard%20for%20cost%7C%7CBanishes%20itself%20from%20your%20Graveyard%7C%7CBanishes%20itself%20from%20Graveyard%20for%20cost%5D%5D&amp;amp;po=%3FCard%20type%0D%0A%3FAttribute%0D%0A%3FType%0D%0A%3FLevel%0D%0A%3FRank%0D%0A%3FATK%20string%3DATK%0D%0A%3FDEF%20string%3DDEF%0D%0A&amp;amp;eq=yes&amp;amp;p%5Bformat%5D=broadtable&amp;amp;sort_num=&amp;amp;order_num=ASC&amp;amp;p%5Blimit%5D=500&amp;amp;p%5Boffset%5D=50&amp;amp;p%5Blink%5D=all&amp;amp;p%5Bsort%5D=&amp;amp;p%5Border%5D%5Bascending%5D=1&amp;amp;p%5Bheaders%5D=show&amp;amp;p%5Bmainlabel%5D=&amp;amp;p%5Bintro%5D=&amp;amp;p%5Boutro%5D=&amp;amp;p%5Bsearchlabel%5D=%E2%80%A6%20further%20results&amp;amp;p%5Bdefault%5D=&amp;amp;p%5Bclass%5D=%20sortable%20wikitable%20smwtable%20card-list&amp;amp;eq=yes&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;query&lt;/a&gt; for get more concise results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15297" LastActivityDate="2016-09-02T16:20:49.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32300" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31443" CreationDate="2016-09-03T12:28:11.573" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unless you sleeve all your cards you will need at least 2 boxes, almost 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18268" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T12:28:11.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32301" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29983" CreationDate="2016-09-03T13:35:39.197" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does tell you, it says play it if able. You are not able so you can't use it, it stays in your K.O pile not your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18268" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T13:35:39.197" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32302" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29975" CreationDate="2016-09-03T13:38:14.377" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The maximum, is the amount you have available in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18268" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T13:38:14.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32303" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7253" CreationDate="2016-09-03T19:02:18.757" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both sides vulnerable, East (Watson) opened a (British) &quot;medium&quot; (14-16) 1NT. This was followed by alternating bids of 2S 3S and 4S by South and North, the rest passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;          K94&#xA;          AT753&#xA;          T764&#xA;          K&#xA;&#xA;873                52&#xA;Q964               K82&#xA;8                  A2&#xA;J9753              AQJ532&#xA;&#xA;          AQJT6&#xA;          J&#xA;          K9&#xA;          QT864&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the defenders got the first two (diamond tricks), West led a club to North's King. South returned a diamond from dummy and ruffed high in hand, with West (Holmes) electing to discard a low trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.baronbarclay.com/product/1714/February2013&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a hand where it was necessary to &quot;discard&quot; a trump on a high ruff. because West needed all the remaining cards in his side suits (hearts and clubs) to prevent South from ruffing out his winners, and then earning tricks with &quot;long&quot; cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The discard of a trump was not a waste, because if South drew trumps, they would no longer be available for ruffing out West's side suits. Since West had only few (three) and low trumps anyway, side suit protection was more important, especially opposite East's 1NT bid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-09-03T23:16:03.040" LastActivityDate="2016-09-03T23:16:03.040" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32304" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-03T20:57:52.567" Score="7" ViewCount="6911" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klondike_(solitaire)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Klondike solitaire&lt;/a&gt; with standard rules (Draw 3 cards, Re-Deal infinite), a 'null' hand is a hand where you cannot play any card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Statistically, is it more common to win the game, or have a null game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18271" LastEditorUserId="23542" LastEditDate="2020-06-26T20:24:41.467" LastActivityDate="2020-06-28T07:15:29.343" Title="in Klondike-Solitaire, how likely is a deal with no legal moves?" Tags="|solitaire|klondike-solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2020-07-03T02:59:51.893" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32305" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32306" CreationDate="2016-09-04T07:21:16.620" Score="5" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;My playgroup and I are a little confused on this part of the rules. Say the piles are as below:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Blue: 1&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Green: 2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Red: 2&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  White: 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Yellow: 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a Green-3, but only know the number. Before playing it, do I announce &quot;I'm playing this in the green pile&quot; and check if it works, or do I show the 3, see that it is Green, and put it there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes sense you'd select a pile before playing the card, else it's too ambiguous and easy to stack piles. If the card is green, it goes on the green pile, but if it was red, it also goes in a pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18272" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-04T12:43:50.983" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T12:43:50.983" Title="Playing a card on Hanabi: choose the pile first, or play it and then check?" Tags="|hanabi|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32306" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32305" CreationDate="2016-09-04T09:10:17.683" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You announce the card you are playing, then it is played. Checking for legitimacy is a separate act.&lt;/strong&gt; Play proceeds as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Play the chosen card face-up on the table (not on a pile).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Check whether it can be legally placed on an existing pile. Do so if possible, increasing that pile by one.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, check whether it can be legally placed to start a new pile (i.e. it is the first number one card in a colour). Do so if possible, starting a new pile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, discard the played card and lose a fuse token.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability to play a legal card before knowing precisely how it is legal, is intentional. Latter stages of the game rely increasingly on the tactical use and provision of information to others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If it was necessary to know the precise pile on which to play a card before doing so in order to succeed, the game would be made far more difficult than it already is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In your example, you would play the Green-3, then, seeing it is a legal card on the Green pile, place it there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T09:10:17.683" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32307" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32322" CreationDate="2016-09-04T10:49:31.317" Score="2" ViewCount="282" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm thinking of building a bridge robot that bids and plays a hand.  Are there any standards for robots to play against each other?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18274" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T12:29:18.133" Title="Are there standards for Bridge robots" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32308" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32309" CreationDate="2016-09-04T13:45:20.383" Score="0" ViewCount="607" Body="&lt;p&gt;When playing Magic Duels, my opponent had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMirrorwing%20Dragon%5d&quot;&gt;Mirrorwing Dragon&lt;/a&gt; as his only creature and I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBone%20Splinters%5d&quot;&gt;Bone Splinters&lt;/a&gt; on it, sacrificing one of my three creatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following occurred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) The game copied Bone Splinters (once) - I assume from Mirrorwing Dragon (the game is non-specific)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) One of my two remaining creatures was targetted by the Bone Splinters copy and destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) I was left with a single creature (of the original 3) and my opponents Mirrorwing Dragon was destroyed.  My remaining creature did not have hexproof or protection from black.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this how this should've worked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10217" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2017-01-25T17:37:01.657" LastActivityDate="2017-01-25T17:37:01.657" Title="How should Bone Splinters and Mirrorwing Dragon work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|magic-duels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32309" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32308" CreationDate="2016-09-04T14:04:42.610" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If you cast a spell on a Mirrorwing Dragon as its only target, that spell will be copied for and target each of your creatures.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a player casts an instant or sorcery spell that targets only Mirrorwing Dragon, that player copies that spell for each other creature he or she controls that the spell could target. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;Her or she&quot; refers to the caster of the spell. See also the first ruling on the gatherer page for Mirrorwing Dragon:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The copies are only created targeting creatures that the spell’s controller controls.&lt;/strong&gt; Copies are not created for all creatures on the battlefield, and the affected creatures may be controlled by a different player than the controller of Mirrorwing Dragon. Notably, if you cast Murder targeting your opponent’s Mirrorwing Dragon, your creatures will each get a Murder, not your opponent’s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, since you said that &quot;he killed &lt;strong&gt;one of&lt;/strong&gt; my creatures*&quot;, you may be confusing the creature sacrifice cost of Bone Splinters with its effect. After the sacrifice, however, the spell would still be copied for each of your creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T14:04:42.610" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32310" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32311" CreationDate="2016-09-04T16:45:43.893" Score="6" ViewCount="351" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I have an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOlivia%2c%20Mobilized%20for%20War%5d&quot;&gt;Olivia, Mobilized for War&lt;/a&gt; on the field, who has this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever another creature enters the battlefield under your control,&#xA;  you may discard a card. If you do, put a +1/+1 counter on that&#xA;  creature, it gains haste until end of turn, and it becomes a Vampire&#xA;  in addition to its other types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a Werewolf and discard a card to pay for Olivia's ability. The Werewolf is also a Vampire now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A turn passes without anybody playing spells, so the Werewolf transforms. Is it still a Vampire? Or is it only the subtypes written on the card's new face?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-05-16T15:15:21.963" LastActivityDate="2019-05-16T15:15:21.963" Title="Do subtype changes remain after a card is transformed?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-double-faced-cards|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32311" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32310" CreationDate="2016-09-04T17:15:49.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;h1&gt;Yes.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_21031101.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;711.7. When a double-faced permanent transforms, it doesn't become a new object. Any effects that applied to that permanent will continue to apply to it after it transforms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So your Werewolf will keep its Vampire subtype.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18260" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-04T19:55:30.163" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32314" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-05T01:48:51.117" Score="3" ViewCount="7684" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you finish your routes, do you have to draw new ones?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18278" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-12-29T17:27:47.760" LastActivityDate="2019-12-29T17:27:47.760" Title="Does a player always has to have uncompleted destination tickets on-hand?" Tags="|ticket-to-ride|ticket-to-ride-europe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32315" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25553" CreationDate="2016-09-05T02:12:11.403" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Japanese mahjong does not allow swapping tiles into the hand after riichi, as noted by so many.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apocryphally, the European Mahjong Association did allow this between 2008 and 2012 (changed that year) because their community's comprehension of the rules as played elsewhere was incomplete and lacking, so they made stuff up to bridge the gaps. Now, EMA rules from 2016 onward are functionally the same to what people would consider to be modern Japanese mahjong, with variance only related to protocol and game etiquette, with a natural focus on a competitive style.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for using Japanese wikipedia or a pro organization or a jansou chain as a source: it depends who, for what, and under what optics. Using a single source might not always work, but if they all conform to one or two clear options, then it does make sense. There are people who have their done their research on this and other topics already. Some things do have variance: this isn't one of them. House rules govern agreements between 4 players that have chosen to abide by them, but this does not make them normalized or &quot;an equivalent option&quot; because they simply are not common or relevant enough to make that distinction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17965" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T02:12:11.403" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32316" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32314" CreationDate="2016-09-05T04:33:33.760" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;do&lt;/em&gt; complete all your routes, it is often a good idea to collect more since each route completed adds to your score, however this is very dependent on the current game situation (how many routes are free, how close it is to game end, how flexible your current rail system is) as you also risk drawing new cards that you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; complete and which would penalize you. However, there is nothing mandating that you always have tickets to complete: Since the contents of your tickets is not public information nobody should know that you've completed all your tickets until game end, so such a rule would be mostly unenforceable anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to the rules, the game turn consists of taking one (and only one) of the following four actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw Train Car Cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Claim a Route&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draw Destination Tickets&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Build a Train Station&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there is absolutely nothing in the rules which tells you to take one of these actions over the others in any situation: It is entirely your choice as to which of the four actions to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Literally the only case I can conceive of where you'd be forced to collect more destination tickets (aside from the ones drawn during game setup) would be if the other three actions were, for whatever reason, unavailable to you. This would basically mean that there are (a) no train cards to draw, (b) you can't afford to claim any routes, and (c) you've already deployed your station. And if this does happen to you, you've probably already lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T04:33:33.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32317" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32318" CreationDate="2016-09-05T05:11:10.927" Score="5" ViewCount="292" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Sequencing Breakthrough&lt;/em&gt; event indicates to place the card face up in front of &quot;this player&quot;. The text, however, indicates the effect is applied on the &quot;next cure&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the other long-term events (e.g. &lt;em&gt;Commercial Travel Ban&lt;/em&gt;) are somehow tied to the player during whose turn the event was played. Is &lt;em&gt;Sequencing Breakthrough&lt;/em&gt; similar - does it apply only to the player it was played by?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been playing it as a bonus on whichever cure is discovered next, regardless of who discovers it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17879" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2016-09-05T07:41:33.163" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T07:41:33.163" Title="Is &quot;Sequencing Breakthrough&quot; applied only to a single player" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-in-the-lab|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32318" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32317" CreationDate="2016-09-05T06:08:50.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You have been playing correctly.&lt;/strong&gt; The effect applies to the next 'Discover A Cure' action, regardless of which player performs it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card is placed in front of the player for two reasons:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it remains in effect (the obvious and helpful indicator so that players can easily check whether it applies)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;it is kept out of the discard pile (to prevent other abilities and card effects from being used to create a &quot;stack&quot; of &lt;em&gt;Sequencing Breakthrough&lt;/em&gt;s)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T06:08:50.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32321" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-05T09:58:04.617" Score="-2" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a lot of magic cards from year 2009-2000 and i want to sell them but i dont know which one of my cards have value but i dont know if there is a website that has a list of old mtg cards that still has monetary value or can be sold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18280" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T00:40:15.400" Title="can you give me a website that has a list of prices for old mtg cards?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-09-06T00:40:23.713" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32322" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32307" CreationDate="2016-09-05T12:23:14.800" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Under the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allevybridge.com/allevy/computerbridge/WCBC_coc.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;em&gt;conditions of contest for ACBL/WBF sponsored &lt;strong&gt;World Computer Bridge Championships&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.allevybridge.com/allevy/computerbridge/WCBC_coc.html#Method%20and%20Conditions%20of%20Play&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Section VI. Method of Play&lt;/a&gt; the use of a &lt;strong&gt;Table Manager&lt;/strong&gt; is mandated, of which two examples are mentioned by name:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Table Manager&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One copy of each robot will be played on a computer.  Exception can be made to allow two copies of each program (a pair) to be played on one computer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Matches will be controlled by a Table Manager program.  One that may be used Bridge Monitor, developed by Gerard Joyez, or a Table Manager developed by Ian Trackman of Blue Chip Bridge Ltd.  The latter program is the property of Blue Chip Bridge Ltd which has full copyright and other intellectual property rights to it.  If it is used it will be supplied to acceptable potential contestants solely for the purpose of preparing for the Montreal competition.  To receive a copy an entrant must agree to the above restrictions, abide by the copyright, agree not distribute the program, and sign a release statement provided by Blue Chip Bridge, Ltd.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Transmission of information as to deals, bids and play of cards and otherwise, will be consistent with the protocol defined on &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluechipbridge.co.uk/protocol.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bluechipbridge.co.uk/protocol.htm&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Programs must not communicate with their “partner” program or any other program nor search for any information.  Any attempt to do so will be deemed to be a violation of the rules.  The penalty is disqualification.  The ACBL reserves the right to implement whatever network monitoring and/or other measures that it thinks fit without disclosure to the participants.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under these conditions of contest, the protocol defined at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.bluechipbridge.co.uk/protocol.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.bluechipbridge.co.uk/protocol.htm&lt;/a&gt; has been a &lt;em&gt;de facto&lt;/em&gt; standard since 2005:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Introductory&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;2.&lt;/strong&gt; The basic concept is that there are five programs, ideally running on five separate computers.  One program plays for each hand. The fifth program acts as the &quot;Table Manager&quot;. The Table Manager’s function is to deal the cards, transmit and receive all communications among the playing programs, keep the score and (to a limited extent) enforce the rules of the game.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;3.&lt;/strong&gt; All communications are in plain-text ASCII format (characters #10, #13 and #32 to #127 only), using TCP/IP. It has been suggested that all 8-bit ASCII characters should be allowed for e.g. accented characters, but this might cause display problems for receiving computers (opinions please).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;10.&lt;/strong&gt; Most messages are in plain English, so that the transmissions will be intelligible to operators and observers without decoding.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Connecting&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;1.&lt;/strong&gt; To connect with the Table Manager, a player opens a client socket to the Table Manager’s computer.  The player sends &quot;Connecting [&quot;team name&quot;] as [Hand] using protocol version [x]&quot;.  The team-name should be enclosed in double-quotation marks (ASCII #34) to avoid any conflict with reserved words used in this protocol.  So that the team-name can be used as part of a file-name for hand records etc., it should consist only of characters which would be valid as part of a file-name. ....&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-09-05T12:29:18.133" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T12:29:18.133" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32323" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32321" CreationDate="2016-09-05T14:24:24.317" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;On &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtggoldfish.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;mtggoldfish&lt;/a&gt; you can find the prices of all cards printed and online &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastActivityDate="2016-09-05T14:24:24.317" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32326" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4346" CreationDate="2016-09-06T02:17:02.487" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I agree that it's all too easy to rotate and get several option cards - usually other players are not close enough to 'just blast them either'.&#xA;So I've decided on a simple house rule that says you must move off the hammer-wrench before you can go back on to get another card - i don't mind so much if someone can go 'back 1' and 'forward 1' again, as these card combo's are much less frequent than rotate left &amp;amp; right.&#xA;It works well, simple and effective.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18285" LastActivityDate="2016-09-06T02:17:02.487" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32327" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32283" CreationDate="2016-09-06T22:07:23.790" Score="0" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is Red allowed to play the purple fence?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. There's still a path from each player to their goal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, what happens over the next two moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blue moves down, then you get into a situation where Yellow has no legal moves, so the game can't legally proceed. This question is a duplicate of an earlier &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31963/in-a-four-person-game-of-quoridor-can-a-player-be-forced-to-pass-a-turn&quot;&gt;question&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is Red allowed to move their pawn downward?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. It's one square away along an orthogonal axis, it's unoccupied, and there are no intervening boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If so, what happens over the next two moves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Red moves down, Blue must move down, and then Yellow must take over Red's current location. Fig 8 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://upload.snakesandlattes.com/rules/q/Quoridor.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;While it's not explicitly stated in the rules that a jump blocked by the borders of the board or by other pawns allows one to take a diagonal jump, this seems obvious like an obvious omission.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T01:19:47.920" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32328" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32329" CreationDate="2016-09-07T01:45:10.537" Score="3" ViewCount="454" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you hear your partner open one spade. You, the responder (North) have:&#xA;(s)Kxx (h)xx (d)xxx (c)AKxxx, and respond two clubs. Opener now bids three clubs, showing you a &quot;double fit&quot; in spades and clubs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have ten high card points, and presume that opener has at least 13, for a total of at least 23. Normally, that's not quite enough for game, but the double fit has increased the value of your hands. Can you go directly to four spades on the theory that the double fit is worth 2-3 points, thereby bringing you to 25-26 (adjusted)? Or should you stop at three spades and let partner decide based on whether he has a minimum or more?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose you were &lt;em&gt;opener,&lt;/em&gt; and heard partner (responder) stop at 3 spades. You have (s) AQJxx (h)Kxx (d)xx (c) QJx. You assume that he has a bare 10, and you have only 13. Can you go to 4S on the basis of the double fit?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T03:28:37.620" LastActivityDate="2023-08-05T10:00:11.053" Title="How much would you revalue your hand after finding a &quot;double fit?&quot;" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32329" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32328" CreationDate="2016-09-07T05:35:50.497" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's give partner a &lt;em&gt;fitting minimum&lt;/em&gt; for the first auction; one that fits nicely but is otherwise as weak as possible:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: AJxxx&#xA;H: x&#xA;D: KJX&#xA;C: QTxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This hand by partner has only 11 HCP, evaluates to exactly 13 total points as opener, and there are excellent chances to make 4S, especially with an attacking diamond lead being up to partner's holding.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's also consider a &lt;em&gt;non-fitting maximum&lt;/em&gt; hand for partner, with the maximum possible &lt;em&gt;non-working&lt;/em&gt; values:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: Qxxxx&#xA;H: AQ&#xA;D: AQ&#xA;C: xxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again 4S has a good play, with one sure loser in trumps and good chances that the rest of the hand can be managed for only two losers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These two hands illustrate the principle that if one's own values are strongly fitting, as in the hand given, and especially when one is the weaker hand of the partnership, one can be aggressive. Practice visualizing typical &lt;em&gt;fitting minimum&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;non-fitting maximum&lt;/em&gt; hands for partner in the bidding, and evaluate your own holding against those when deciding whether to bid or invite game/slam. &lt;strong&gt;Caveat&lt;/strong&gt;: Be very careful to not &lt;em&gt;place cards&lt;/em&gt; in partner's hand when doing so. It is easy to engage in wishful thinking when doing this exercise, so you must consciously restrain your self until that becomes second nature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's try the flip side; partner's &lt;em&gt;fitting minimum&lt;/em&gt; could be something like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: xxx&#xA;H: x&#xA;D: KJTx&#xA;C: Axxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is about as bad a hand as partner could come down with, 8HCP and 10 total points, yet 4S is not hopeless despite the mismatch in the red suits. Even small additions like ST or C9 start looking like big cards. Vulnerable at IMPS bidding this game is mandatory, and perhaps also non-vulnerable at IMPS, but at MatchPoints I'd rather play 3S and trust partner to bid game herself when holding a hand like &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;S: Kxx&#xA;H: xx&#xA;D: xxx&#xA;C: AKxxx&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Update&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three distinctive marks of a weak player are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;not counting; &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;still not counting; and &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;thinking that hand evaluation &lt;em&gt;ends&lt;/em&gt; with counting points, when in fact it only &lt;em&gt;begins&lt;/em&gt; with counting points. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the examples of hand visualization given above &lt;em&gt;all start with counting&lt;/em&gt; - of points, distribution, potential losers and winners - of things that cannot yet be seen in partner's hand but must be visualized. One begins to approach expert status only when this process starts to become second nature.  In many senses an expert performs this visualization first; decides on the appropriate call based on this visualization; determines what the &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;value&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; of the hand is based on the call and bidding system; and only then decides how that &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;value&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is apportioned as HCP and distribution and fitting points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T05:52:10.770" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T05:52:10.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32330" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32304" CreationDate="2016-09-07T10:53:02.647" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Klondike Solitaire there are 7 cards face up on the table, 21 face down on the table, leaving (out of the 52 card pack) 24 cards in the deck. If you're dealing 3 cards at a time, only 24/3 = 8 of these cards are available. So only 15 cards are available at the start of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for there not to be any valid moves at the start, you would need:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No aces&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;No adjacently numbered cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is easily achievable with 15 cards. For example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Kings&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Jacks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Nines&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;3 Sevens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klondike_(solitaire)&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;, which answers the probabilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;About 79% of the games are theoretically winnable&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The number of games a player can probabilistically expect to win is at least 43%&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;In addition, some games are &quot;unplayable&quot; in which no cards can be moved to the foundations even at the start of the game; these occur in only 0.025% of hands dealt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are therefore far more likely to win the game (even if your decisions are far from perfect) than get an unplayable/&quot;null&quot; hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11743" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T10:53:02.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32331" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32332" CreationDate="2016-09-07T15:11:39.990" Score="1" ViewCount="534" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Vision interpretation section of the rulebook, it says to draw &lt;code&gt;vision cards to make up his hand to 7 cards.&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the Reveal the Culprit phase, it says &lt;code&gt;the ghost picks three vision cards from his hand&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's not clear to me if the ghost is allowed to draw new cards to bring his or her hand up to 7 in the Reveal the Culprit phase every time he/she selects one of the three vision cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the ghost replenish his/her hand in the Reveal the Culprit phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T15:28:00.130" Title="Can ghost replenish hand in Reveal the Culprit phase" Tags="|mysterium|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32332" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32331" CreationDate="2016-09-07T15:28:00.130" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is nothing in the Reveal the Culprit section about drawing new cards in the middle of the vision therefore you don't. It is similar to the Vision Interpretation part of the game where if you give a psychic multiple cards as part of a single vision you don't draw in-between them, only after you are done with that particular vision and a ready to move to the next psychic's vision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T15:28:00.130" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32333" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32359" CreationDate="2016-09-07T16:41:17.233" Score="0" ViewCount="2167" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;The Oregon Trail Card Game&lt;/em&gt;, there is a trail card that says the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Roll an even number and ford the river. Roll a one and die by drowning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens if I roll a 3 or a 5? Other cards have you lose a supply card on a failed roll, so I'm not sure if that happens here. But since it doesn't say, I'm wondering if there is any consequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;This question was raised in &lt;a href=&quot;http://arstechnica.com/the-multiverse/2016/09/oregon-trail-card-game-simple-repetitive-and-youll-die-of-dysentery-a-lot/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;a review of the game&lt;/a&gt; at Ars Technica.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T15:14:12.963" Title="A trail card says I pass if I roll an even number and die if I roll a 1. What happens if I roll a 3 or 5?" Tags="|the-oregon-trail-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32334" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32335" CreationDate="2016-09-07T17:57:25.110" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNight%5d%2b%5bof%5d%2b%5bSouls%27%5d%2b%5bBetrayal%5d&quot;&gt;Night of Souls&amp;#39; Betrayal&lt;/a&gt;, and so does my opponent. Creatures get -2/-2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMarchesa%2c%20the%20Black%20Rose%5d&quot;&gt;Marchesa, the Black Rose&lt;/a&gt;, relevant text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control with a +1/+1 counter on it dies, return that card to the battlefield under your control at the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRakdos%20Cackler%5d&quot;&gt;Rakdos Cackler&lt;/a&gt;, a 1/1 with Unleash.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I choose to have Rakdos Cackler enter with a counter, will it have a +1/+1 counter on it when it dies? Will Marchesa's ability return Rakdos Cackler to the battlefield at the next end step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T18:37:56.673" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T18:37:56.673" Title="Instantaneous creature death and checking conditions" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32335" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32334" CreationDate="2016-09-07T17:57:25.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it will trigger every time it returns.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's start when the Cackler is on the stack, when you originally cast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no one has a response, it resolves. When it is resolving, you choose whether or not to have it enter with a counter. Assuming you do, it enter with a counter on it, as a 0/0, because of the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNight%5d%2b%5bof%5d%2b%5bSouls%27%5d%2b%5bBetrayal%5d&quot;&gt;Night of Souls&amp;#39; Betrayal&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At this point, state based actions are checked. The Cackler dies, but Marchesa will see it with a +1/+1 on it, and this process will repeat every end step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-09-07T18:10:23.163" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T18:10:23.163" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32336" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32290" CreationDate="2016-09-07T18:22:45.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A draw is definitely possible. For example here is a game I played against myself on an &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nicholas.kroetsch.quarto&amp;amp;hl=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Android app&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTUfs.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/vTUfs.jpg&quot; width=&quot;300&quot; title=&quot;Drawn game of Quarto&quot;/&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I've not seen any results about whether this version of the game is a draw with perfect play or not (in contrast to the basic game which is known to be a &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cs.rhul.ac.uk/~wouter/Talks/quarto.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;draw&lt;/a&gt;). The extra victory condition might mean that perfect play results in a win for one of the two players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="122" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T18:22:45.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32337" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28642" CreationDate="2016-09-07T19:50:39.990" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Clovis: He was mostly setup for close combat at full, give him an armor and send him to kill, IF you get to find the 2 bustard swords the sword master skill becomes useful and a great add on, if not go for the other one and get a good sword with a dagger and start to kill more dice = more kills&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Samson: he is surely a tank, just with iron hide the 3+ armour and a shield and he becomes practically immortal (unless attacked by abominations) in this setup he will have a 2+ save with reroll against everything that is not an abomination, so imagine the numbers you need around 117 walkers or 60 runners or 38 wolfs activated in his square at 1 time in order to kill him (unless the god dice hates you), so you can easily had him eat punches to slow zombies while others can take items and stuff (just in case make sure someone has the ability to heal) and if you get him to red, this setup with barbarian creates full zombie killing machine tank&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18296" LastActivityDate="2016-09-07T19:50:39.990" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32338" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32397" CreationDate="2016-09-08T01:36:55.353" Score="4" ViewCount="181" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state the requirements of moving from and to hexes, but don't clarify whether the action of moving a disc &quot;from&quot; a hex invalidates that hex as an influenced neighbor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put another way, can I move a disc from one hex to a neighboring hex if there is no &lt;strong&gt;other&lt;/strong&gt; influenced (or ship-resident) hex next to that destination hex?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T16:20:12.540" Title="Can an Influence Disc be moved to an adjacent hex if there is no other influenced hex adjacent to that target hex?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32339" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32340" CreationDate="2016-09-08T03:33:02.827" Score="3" ViewCount="827" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do all werewolves awake during the werewolf phase or only characters explicitly titled &quot;werewolf&quot;? Does Mystic Wolf wake up? What about Dream Wolf? I would think yes because otherwise how would you know who is on team werewolf, but I'm also lead to believe no because Dream Wolf doesn't wake up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18272" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T04:30:05.863" Title="Do other wolves wake up during the werewolf phase in ONUW?" Tags="|werewolf|one-night-werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32340" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32339" CreationDate="2016-09-08T04:30:05.863" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Other than the Dream Wolf, all wolves wake up at the start of the Night phase. That's what makes the Dream Wolf special. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/109880/daybreak-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Daybreak rules&lt;/a&gt;, in describing the roles, make this clear:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alpha Wolf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At night, the Alpha Wolf wakes with the other Werewolves. Afterwards, the Alpha Wolf wakes up separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mystic Wolf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Mystic Wolf wakes with the other Werewolves. Afterwards, the Mystic Wolf wakes up separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dream Wolf:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Dream Wolf does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; wake up with the other Werewolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T04:30:05.863" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32341" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32342" CreationDate="2016-09-08T12:25:56.370" Score="-1" ViewCount="92" Body="&lt;p&gt;I met a bloke at a pub and he asked if i would like to play test a game he was working on. I really enjoyed it, but forgot to get the details of where i could find more information about it. Can anyone help me? I think it is going to be on kickstarter at some point this year.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference Its just a Theory is A card game where you use cards to construct conspiracy theories while other attempt to steal them. It had a party game vibe to it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18299" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T13:00:16.623" Title="Does anyone know where i can find more information about It's Just a Theory?" Tags="|party|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32342" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32341" CreationDate="2016-09-08T13:00:06.343" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Did you try Google? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A little searching revealed this : &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.itsjustatheorycardgame.co.uk&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.itsjustatheorycardgame.co.uk&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although it looks like all you can do is sign up for an alpha at the moment. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope that helps. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18300" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T13:00:06.343" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32343" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32341" CreationDate="2016-09-08T13:00:16.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I tried looking them up on board game geek just encase and turns out they have a page for those who are interested &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/206903/its-just-theory&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/206903/its-just-theory&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Makes no mention of when it will be on kickstarter though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18299" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T13:00:16.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32345" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32349" CreationDate="2016-09-08T16:51:51.630" Score="6" ViewCount="1209" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose opener bids one spade. Second seat doubles (takeout). Responder redoubles. Then fourth seat &quot;bids&quot; one club and the opener declines to let it stand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is an easy fix. Fourth seat has mentioned clubs, and is now forced to say &quot;two clubs&quot; to make the bid sufficient.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But suppose fourth seat (a newbie) says something like &quot;double,&quot; or &quot;double the redouble.&quot; You can't play one spade for eightfold stakes. But the bidder has presumably given away unauthorized information. So in a tournament, what would be the penalty and how would it be assessed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T22:21:50.143" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T22:21:50.143" Title="In bridge, what happens if a bidder makes a wrong bid that can't be corrected?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32346" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32347" CreationDate="2016-09-08T17:25:33.057" Score="8" ViewCount="918" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've only played about 10 games of ONUW and during deliberation on who to vote out, a trend emerges: we often discuss what we did and try to deduce who is who. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Say there was a Seer, Troublemaker, Robber, and Village Idiot, each one would tell everyone else which cards they looked at/swapped around, so much so that by the end of the deliberation, we usually have all of the players correct. Is the game meant to be played this way? Is there any benefit to a villager telling a lie?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What if no player has a werewolf (say they're all in the middle). Is there a way villagers can even win the game? A villager must be voted out (unless there's a draw?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18272" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T13:35:33.170" Title="Should players recount their moves during deliberation in Werewolf? What if no werewolves?" Tags="|werewolf|one-night-werewolf|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32347" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32346" CreationDate="2016-09-08T18:58:56.803" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is a benefit to a villager holding back information, or telling a lie. The benefit is that if all the villagers immediately and automatically tell the truth, then the werewolf can use the information to his advantage. For example, if no villager claims to be the Seer, then the werewolf can safely say that he was the seer. If, however, people are reluctant to claim things, then if the werewolf claims to be the Seer, then the real Seer can speak up and call out his lie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another thing I've seen done is the troublemaker telling a lie about which players he switched. For example, I'm the troublemaker, and I switched players A and B with each other. I suspect that player C is the werewolf. I say &quot;I switched players A and C&quot;. Player C, who really was the werewolf, believes me, and says &quot;well in that case, I was the werewolf to start, so now player A must be the werewolf!&quot; Then, when I reveal the truth that player C is was NOT actually switched, we all know that player C is the wolf, he just admitted it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also not clear from your description what a werewolf does in your games. If &quot;everyone tells the truth&quot;, and everyone is believable, then what does the werewolf do? If someone says that he was a Village Idiot, how do you know if he's telling the truth, or if he is actually a werewolf who is lying?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there is no werewolf, then the villagers win by not killing anyone. The only way to do this is to not give more than 1 vote to any player (for example, each player votes for the person on his/her right). Often players will agree to vote this way if they are truly convinced that no one is a werewolf; but if they do so, and there actually was a werewolf, then the werewolf wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, it is normal to discuss what each person did, and who each person is. But the werewolf will almost always be lying, which means that you can't know for sure if any 1 person is telling the truth or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T00:32:03.727" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T00:32:03.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32348" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27750" CreationDate="2016-09-08T20:06:26.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;1) &amp;amp; 2)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Hunter dies, the player he is pointing at dies as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it resolves like this: you are voted out &gt; you reveal your card and find out you're a Hunter &gt; the person you pointed at during voting also dies. It doesn't matter who was Hunter originally, just who is Hunter at the end.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3) If it bothers you that much, have Doppelganger write role they saw and possibly person who had it during their night phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-09-08T20:06:26.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32349" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32345" CreationDate="2016-09-09T00:04:25.823" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldbridge.org/Data/Sites/1/GalleryImages/general/laws/2007lawscomplete.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Laws of Contract Bridge&lt;/a&gt;'s Law 36 deals with inadmissible doubles. If the player in first seat takes a call before somebody realizes that the double was inadmissible, the double and all subsequent calls are cancelled, it becomes fourth seat's turn to call, and everything proceeds as normal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, on the other hand, the irregularity is called out immediately, the double is cancelled and the player may substitute any call. Their partner (in second seat) is forced to pass every time they make a call for the rest of the auction. In addition, there will be lead restrictions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Declarer may prohibit offender’s partner from leading any one suit at his first turn to lead, including the opening lead, such&#xA;  prohibition to continue for as long as offender’s partner retains the lead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T00:04:25.823" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32350" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32292" CreationDate="2016-09-09T01:01:54.347" Score="7" Body="&lt;h2&gt;In modern, Western usage, they are the same game&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider these two games:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MtoSH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/MtoSH.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1981 Pachisi by Whitman Games&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/135009/whitman-edition-1981&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1981 Pachisi by Whitman Games&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnjI.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/9MnjI.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;1982 Parcheesi by Selchow &amp;amp; Righter&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameversion/93889/selchow-righter-edition-1982&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1982 Parcheesi by Selchow &amp;amp; Righter&lt;/a&gt; (later republished by Milton Bradley)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of these have similar boards with only cosmetic differences. They also both use dice, are played individually rather than in teams, and have similar rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;There are some historical differences&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bruce Whitehill &lt;a href=&quot;http://thebiggamehunter.com/games-one-by-one/parcheesi/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;published an article&lt;/a&gt; about Pachisi and Parcheesi in the September 2007 edition of &lt;em&gt;Knucklebones&lt;/em&gt; games magazine. He defines some clear differences between the two:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Pachisi was designed for team play, Parcheesi for individual play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Pachisi&lt;/strong&gt; was designed to be played by four players acting as two teams, unlike &lt;strong&gt;Parcheesi&lt;/strong&gt;, in which each player plays independently; team play significantly raises the level of strategy required for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The boards have a different appearance and sequence of play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The &lt;strong&gt;Parcheesi&lt;/strong&gt; board still has the appearance of a cross, but the main paths have been moved to form a path around the edge of a square gameboard. &lt;strong&gt;Parcheesi&lt;/strong&gt; pieces begin in individual areas in the corners of the board (one color per area), whereas the “men,” as they are often called, in &lt;strong&gt;Pachisi&lt;/strong&gt; begin and end in the same center square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Traditional Pachisi uses cowry shells, Parcheesi uses dice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;One more significant difference (there are other minor ones) is that the moves in &lt;strong&gt;Parcheesi&lt;/strong&gt; are governed by dice, whereas &lt;strong&gt;Pachisi&lt;/strong&gt; uses cowrie (or cowry) shells. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, most modern versions of Pachisi and Parcheesi do not have these differences, as shown above.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I suspect that the differences could be likened to regional variations of the game, or a change of the rules over time. This might be compared to Chess. Over the course of hundreds of years, the pieces on the board and the rules of movement have changed, yet the game was still &quot;Chess&quot;. In fact, Whitehill's article lists many alternative names for the game, noting that some contain regional rule variations of Pachisi. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that in this case, the rules of Pachisi have changed over time or had variations, and Parcheesi is just another name for the same game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T02:44:42.287" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T02:44:42.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32351" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4638" CreationDate="2016-09-09T04:05:59.610" Score="-13" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are horrible answers, so I'll just kill the Q&amp;amp;A and answer everything quickly&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The confusion here is the word &quot;target&quot;.  The key words MTG really wants you to look at is &quot;a&quot; and &quot;the&quot;.  Shroud and hexproof prevent single targeting spells. IE: [can't be THE target]   Creatures with shroud and hexproof can still technically be &quot;a&quot; target, they just can't be singled out(although the MTG rules don't seperate, have, or recognize the difference because &quot;Target&quot; is only used on spells that single out permanants). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game really puts your language reading skills to work, but if you take your time and read up on the rules, it'll make sense. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep rocking the cards, guys. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18306" LastEditorUserId="18306" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T05:45:14.997" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T05:45:14.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32352" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32353" CreationDate="2016-09-09T07:28:17.010" Score="2" ViewCount="496" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say ships heal &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;at the end of the combat phase&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, since the combat phase entails all battles, does this mean a battle between players 1 and 2 on a given hex that also contains player 3's ships does not end with healing the winner of that battle before having them engage against player 3? (In essence, they are not allowed to heal until all fighting is done for that entire combat phase.) Such a ruling would be consistent with the rule requiring the most recently arrived players to battle first, as this prevents people from exploiting an upcoming battle by simply drifting in to collect the damaged remaining survivor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T08:19:56.833" Title="Are ships unable to heal between battles when multiple parties are present in the same hex?" Tags="|eclipse|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32353" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32352" CreationDate="2016-09-09T08:19:56.833" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct. Ships are not repairing in between battles between players on a single hex.&#xA;Repairing ships is done at the end of the entire combat phase along with drawing reputation tiles and placing influence disks. (page 21 of the rules).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T08:19:56.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32355" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28931" CreationDate="2016-09-09T14:47:17.597" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TL;DR: Ultimately it's a matter of game balance&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Exploration action card is removed as a result of two factors:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;1. The 2 player game is shortened by one round (and one harvest)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In a 2-player game, remove one of the Harvest markers with a green leaf from the game. Then distribute the remaining 6 markers among the Round spaces 6 to 12 leaving space 9 empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having one fewer round makes the two player game harder and reduces the amount of time the players have to implement their strategies and see the returns. The reason for this is because you have less competition over board spaces and so the main constraint/obstacle needs to be time instead of the other players&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;2. Because one of the action cards needs to be cut in order to remove a Round, one had to be chosen.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exploration makes the most sense&#xA;In a game where time is the main obstacle instead of the other players, it's easier to play the actions of your strategy. Therefore, action spaces that provide a higher quantity of resources or a higher versatility of resources are more important. In this situation, the ability to embark on a level 4 expedition is both, and that heavily imbalances the overall strategy towards weapons.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is problematic because Caverna aims to make all paths to victory equally feasible&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18309" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T14:47:17.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32356" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:00:11.470" Score="2" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;What if my opponent ALREADY has a creature with power 4 or greater in play when I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHidden%20Predators%5d&quot;&gt;Hidden Predators&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18310" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T19:12:05.300" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T19:12:05.300" Title="Playing Hidden Predators after an opponent already controls a large creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32357" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32356" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:07:03.463" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Then Hidden Predators will trigger and turn into a creature when the trigger resolves. The card doesn't mention anything about playing a creature, or creatures entering the battlefield, or anything like that. If the opponent controls a creature with power 4 or greater, Hidden Predators will turn into a creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this also applies if creatures on the battlefield get pumped up. If my opponent gives his 1/1 creature +3/+3, he now has a 4/4 which triggers Hidden Predators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T15:07:03.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32358" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32356" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:09:22.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hidden Predators has what is called a 'state trigger', this means that it looks for a specific thing to be true and then it triggers. So if your opponent already controls a creature with power 4+ when Hidden Predators enters the battlefield it will see that the game state it is looking for is true and trigger. Hidden Predators will then become a creature when the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.8.&lt;/strong&gt; Some triggered abilities trigger when a game state (such as a player controlling no permanents of a particular card type) is true, rather than triggering when an event occurs. These abilities trigger as soon as the game state matches the condition. They’ll go onto the stack at the next available opportunity. These are called state triggers. [...] A state-triggered ability doesn’t trigger again until the ability has resolved, has been countered, or has otherwise left the stack. Then, if the object with the ability is still in the same zone and the game state still matches its trigger condition, the ability will trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T15:09:22.963" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32359" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32333" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:14:12.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A Board Game Geek user sent in some rules questions to Pressman Toys and received responses from the company president and game designer. They were kind enough to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1618748/official-rule-clarification-pressman-toys&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;post them on Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;, and this question was one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) River card: “Roll an Even number to ford the river. Roll a 1 and die by drowning.” What happens then when the person rolls a 1 and dies? Would you take that to mean the river was forded, but lost that player to drowning? What happens if a 3 or 5 is rolled?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;-When players are trying to ford a river and they don’t drown or ford the river play passes to the next player, who rolls to try to ford the river. This continues until all players drown or a player fords the river. No player may play another Trail Card until the river has been forded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, a result of 3 or 5 means that the river is not forded, but there are no other ill effects. The next player then attempts to ford the river. Only when a person rolls a 2, 4, or 6 is the River considered to be forded and a new trail tile may be drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T15:14:12.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32360" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32362" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:37:15.523" Score="4" ViewCount="523" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHidden%20Predators%5d&quot;&gt;Hidden Predators&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEnchanted%20Evening%5d&quot;&gt;Enchanted Evening&lt;/a&gt; on the battlefield, will the game end in a draw as soon as my opponent has a creature with power 4 or greater enter the battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I understand the layers correctly, then Hidden Predators will be an Enchantment and a Creature, because even though its own ability normally removes the Enchantment type, the ability of Enchanted Evening will make it stay an Enchantment. This means that every time the state trigger of Hidden Predators resolves, it will immediately trigger again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming no player has an instant to get rid of any of the 3 cards in question (or to kill their opponent), does this cause an automatic draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Edit&lt;/em&gt; It turns out I was wrong about the layers. I thought that a continuous effect like &quot;all x are y&quot; would take precedence over a type-setting effect like &quot;y becomes x&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T16:34:24.913" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:34:24.913" Title="Will state triggers cause a draw if their condition is always true?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32361" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32360" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:51:44.487" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, a state-triggered will trigger repeatedly and draw the game if its trigger condition continues to be true, but the situation you describe does not meet that prerequisite, so the game will not be a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the three relevant permanents are on the battlefield, the next time Hidden Predators triggers, it will stop being an enchantment again, and the game will just go on as usual.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lets say we have the state where Hidden Predators is already a creature, your opponent controls a creature with power 4, and you cast Enchanted Evening. The game plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Immediately after Enchanted Evening resolves, two relevant continuous effects apply from Hidden Predators and Enchanted Evening respectively:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hidden Predators is a 4/4 Beast Creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Hidden Predators] is an enchantment in addition to its other types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They are applied in timestamp order, so the result is that Hidden Predators is a 4/4 Beast Enchantment Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now, all of the conditions are met, so Hidden Predators' triggered ability triggers again.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Hidden Predators' triggered ability resolves, and we get an additional relevant continuous effect:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hidden Predators is a 4/4 Beast Creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;[Hidden Predators] is an enchantment in addition to its other types.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hidden Predators is a 4/4 Beast Creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, these effects are applied in timestamp order, so Hidden Predators is once again just a 4/4 Beast Creature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After that, Hidden Predators is once again not an Enchantment, so the ability does not trigger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rule that governs this interaction is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Interaction_of_continuous_effects&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;613.6&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Within a layer or sublayer, determining which order effects are applied in is usually done using a timestamp system. An effect with an earlier timestamp is applied before an effect with a later timestamp.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6a&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by a static ability has the same timestamp as the object the static ability is on, or the timestamp of the effect that created the ability, whichever is later.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;613.6b&lt;/strong&gt; A continuous effect generated by the resolution of a spell or ability receives a timestamp at the time it’s created.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a different situation, with different state-triggered abilities, those abilities can cause a draw. For example, as diego mentions, if you control a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDarksteel%20Reactor%5d&quot;&gt;Darksteel Reactor&lt;/a&gt; and your opponent controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPlatinum%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt;, then the ability just triggers forever in a loop that can't be stopped unless a player can remove one of those permanents at instant speed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-09-09T16:16:37.240" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:16:37.240" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32362" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32360" CreationDate="2016-09-09T15:54:29.703" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your example doesn't cause infinite state triggers as murgatroid explains. You controlling &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDarksteel%20Reactor%5d&quot;&gt;Darksteel Reactor&lt;/a&gt; with 20 counters while your opponent controls a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPlatinum%20Angel%5d&quot;&gt;Platinum Angel&lt;/a&gt; would do it however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case yes the game will be a draw as long as there is no way to stop the state trigger. Note that 'no way' in this case only means choosing different options or targets if that is possible, neither player is required to play spells or activate abilities to stop the trigger even if they have the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.8.&lt;/strong&gt; Some triggered abilities trigger when a game state (such as a player controlling no permanents of a particular card type) is true, rather than triggering when an event occurs. These abilities trigger as soon as the game state matches the condition. They’ll go onto the stack at the next available opportunity. These are called state triggers. (Note that state triggers aren’t the same as state-based actions.) A state-triggered ability doesn’t trigger again until the ability has resolved, has been countered, or has otherwise left the stack. &lt;strong&gt;Then, if the object with the ability is still in the same zone and the game state still matches its trigger condition, the ability will trigger again.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;716.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If a loop contains only mandatory actions, the game is a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;716.5.&lt;/strong&gt; No player can be forced to perform an action that would end a loop other than actions called for by objects involved in the loop.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; A player controls Seal of Cleansing, an enchantment that reads, “Sacrifice Seal of Cleansing: Destroy target artifact or enchantment.” A mandatory loop that involves an artifact begins. The player is not forced to sacrifice Seal of Cleansing to destroy the artifact and end the loop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-09T16:11:33.573" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32363" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-10T01:33:52.570" Score="4" ViewCount="842" Body="&lt;p&gt;For example, would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUgin%2c%20the%20Spirit%20Dragon%5d&quot;&gt;Ugin, the Spirit Dragon&lt;/a&gt;'s minus ability affect &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWestvale%20Abbey%5d&quot;&gt;Westvale Abbey&lt;/a&gt; transformed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;−X: Exile each permanent with converted mana cost X or less that's one or more colors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18313" LastEditorUserId="7613" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T04:53:04.333" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T04:53:04.333" Title="Do the back side of double-faced cards have a color?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32364" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32363" CreationDate="2016-09-10T01:40:07.517" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they can have a color, and Ormendahl would be exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sghUg.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/sghUg.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Picture of Ormendahl, Profane Prince&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you see the little black dot to the left of &quot;Legendary Creature&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That dot is called a color indicator, and means that the card is black. The CMC of the back of a double-faced card is the same as the front, which, in this case, is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCj7y.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/yCj7y.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's another example of a black color indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11667" LastEditorUserId="7613" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T04:52:28.557" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T04:52:28.557" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32365" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-10T02:57:57.007" Score="7" ViewCount="15650" Body="&lt;p&gt;Certain lands, such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCoastal%20Tower%5d&quot;&gt;Coastal Tower&lt;/a&gt;, state that they can add two types of land, but when does that happen? When I cast it, it enters the battlefield as just one land, right? So does it add the additional land when tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T19:44:36.313" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T10:23:45.030" Title="How do dual lands and their mana work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2019-03-21T18:36:05.990" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32366" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32365" CreationDate="2016-09-10T03:04:08.000" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;Lands and mana are not the same thing. Lands (generally) have abilities that let them tap to produce mana. For example, a basic Island can tap to produce one blue mana, and a basic Plains can tap to produce one white mana. (On modern printings, this is implicit, but on old ones it was actually &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=2386&quot;&gt;written out on the card&lt;/a&gt;.) The land itself is just an object on the battlefield; it's the mana it produces that you spend to cast spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, some nonbasic lands have abilities that let them produce more than one kind of mana. Your Coastal Tower can tap to produce mana just like a Plains or Island could, except you get to choose: you can produce a blue mana &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; a white mana. It's sort of like being able to play an Island and a Plains in one card, with the downside that it enters tapped and is not actually an Island or a Plains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you want to cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNew%20Prahv%20Guildmage%5d&quot;&gt;New Prahv Guildmage&lt;/a&gt;, which costs a white mana and a blue mana, and have an Island and a Coastal Tower on the battlefield, you can tap the Island for a blue mana and the Coastal Tower for a white mana. Or if instead you had a Plains and a Coastal Tower, you could tap the Plains for a white mana and the Coastal Tower for a blue mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A final note, you don't &lt;em&gt;cast&lt;/em&gt; lands. They're not spells. You simply play them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T05:36:10.480" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T05:36:10.480" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32367" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-10T04:22:23.517" Score="3" ViewCount="686" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHallowed%20Moonlight%5d&quot;&gt;Hallowed Moonlight&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Until end of turn, if a creature would enter the battlefield and it wasn't cast, exile it instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems confusing, the creature was cast when it entered the battlefield. Unless this references tokens or something? Please clarify, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T09:33:02.377" Title="What does Hallowed Moonlight actually exile?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32368" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32367" CreationDate="2016-09-10T04:27:43.300" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a good response to, say, flicker effects. If a player wants to make creatures go to exile and come back to get enters-the-battlefield triggers again, you can cast this so that they don't get them at all! Hah! This also applies to tokens, of course, along with Put a...onto the battlefield effects, meld... The list goes on. This is a fantastic card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18260" LastEditorUserId="18260" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T04:51:09.117" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T04:51:09.117" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32369" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32370" CreationDate="2016-09-10T04:32:30.323" Score="3" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say a couple of turns prior, NAP played a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240133&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Temporal Mastery&lt;/a&gt; and instead of exiling it as instructed, put it into his or her graveyard. Consider AP as a beginner to the game and does not know NAP should have exiled their Temporal Mastery. This error is not caught as it happened and turn(s) have elapsed since.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the current turn, AP attempts to use a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397706&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Surgical Extraction&lt;/a&gt; targeting NAP's Temporal Mastery (which I should remind is in their graveyard). NAP now realizes their error and calls a judge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is AP forced to pick a new target for their Surgical Extraction, does Surgical Extraction fizzle, or does the judge instruct NAP to exile their Temporal Mastery and AP to return Surgical Extraction to their hand? What are the violations each player has made?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18272" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T05:49:50.797" Title="Is a player forced to cast a spell which originally had an illegal target?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32370" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32369" CreationDate="2016-09-10T05:23:31.093" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer your last sentence first, the particular violations each player made are straightforward according to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/en/resources/rules-documents&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Infraction Procedure Guide (IPG)&lt;/a&gt;. This is the document that defines various tournament infractions, as well as the proper remedies at Competitive and Professional Rules Enforcement Levels. At Regular REL, such as Friday Night Magic, the IPG doesn't technically apply, but the fix the judge gives will likely not be significantly different.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The player who cast the Temporal Mastery and didn't exile it committed a Game Play Error—Game Rule Violation (IPG 2.5) for not resolving his/her spell completely. The other player has committed a Game Play Error—Failure to Maintain Game State (IPG 2.6) by failing to notice this. The judge should give both players a Warning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding the game state, there are four categories with specific fixes listed. Quoting one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an object is in an incorrect zone either due to a required zone change being missed or due to being put into the wrong zone during a zone change, the identity of the object was known to all players, and it can be moved with only minor disruption to the state of the game, put the object in the correct zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing more specific is given about altering the game state, but the judge has discretion to perform a minor backup or leave the state as is. Since the Temporal Mastery should never have been a legal target, I'd guess most judges would backup the cast of the Surgical Extraction so it never happened, then perform the fix of exiling Temporal Mastery, but the exact fix is somewhat at the discretion of the judge. If he decides a backup would be too disruptive of the game state and they should play on, it's his call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T05:49:50.797" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T05:49:50.797" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32371" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32372" CreationDate="2016-09-10T06:43:14.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1015" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRite%20of%20Undoing%5d&quot;&gt;Rite of Undoing&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Delve (Each card you exile from your graveyard while casting this spell pays for {1}.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Return target nonland permanent you control and target nonland permanent you don't control to their owners' hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please clarify - to exile means to 'banish' from the game? Why would I do that to my own cards? If otherwise, does the {1} mean each card 'exiled' costs 1 mana each?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if so, where do the cards go, hand, library, battlefield?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T10:29:24.370" Title="How does exiling cards for Delve work?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32372" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32371" CreationDate="2016-09-10T06:47:36.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Exile means move into the exile zone which, yes, pretty much means they're gone. There are some exceptions, e.g. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?type=%20[eldrazi]%20[processor]%7C%7Csubtype=%20[eldrazi]%20[processor]&quot;&gt;the Eldrazi Processors&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPull%20From%20Eternity%5d&quot;&gt;Pull From Eternity&lt;/a&gt;, but the idea is mostly that exile is just gone. It's a completely separate zone, not part of any other zone. (You mention hand, library, and battlefield; those are also zones, as are your graveyard and the stack, and the exile zone is separate from all of them.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But... that's not the important part of Delve. The important part is that you can cast spells cheaply! Each card you exile &lt;em&gt;reduces&lt;/em&gt; the amount you have to pay by one mana. Have a bunch of cards in your graveyard you're not doing anything with? Exile them all, cast that Rite of Undoing for just one blue mana!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The effect is so powerful that cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTreasure%20Cruise%5d&quot;&gt;Treasure Cruise&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDig%20Through%20Time%5d&quot;&gt;Dig Through Time&lt;/a&gt; had to be banned. It's quite easy to fill up your graveyard, and with that done, Treasure Cruise lets you draw three cards for just one mana, and Dig Through Time lets you look at seven and keep two for just two mana. Sure, the exiled cards are gone, but it's worth it!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple side notes about exile: &quot;exile&quot; was originally written as &quot;remove from the game&quot; - see for example &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=179235&quot;&gt;this older edition of Path to Exile&lt;/a&gt;. &quot;Exile&quot; is hopefully clearer; putting something into an exile zone with generally no way to interact with it is more specific than the vague &quot;removed from the game&quot;. And in the rare cases in which something can come back, moving something from the exile zone sounds a lot nicer than returning something from being removed from the game. (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAWOL%5d&quot;&gt;AWOL&lt;/a&gt; from Unhinged makes fun of this whole deal.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T06:57:31.637" LastActivityDate="2016-09-10T06:57:31.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32377" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32378" CreationDate="2016-09-10T20:01:54.257" Score="6" ViewCount="745" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDauntless%20Cathar%5d&quot;&gt;Dauntless Cathar&lt;/a&gt; has the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}{W}, Exile Dauntless Cathar from your graveyard: Put a 1/1 white Spirit creature token with flying onto the battlefield. Activate this ability only any time you could cast a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please clarify. If the card is IN my hand, how can I exile if FROM the graveyard if it is not there? Did the writers mean SEND it to graveyard, or actually exile it? Confused, the writing does not make sense.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAvEV.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAvEV.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dauntless Cathar&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T23:05:04.400" LastActivityDate="2018-12-11T02:52:55.767" Title="How do I activate Dauntless Cathar's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32378" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32377" CreationDate="2016-09-10T20:10:28.793" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general, if a card's ability says to move it from a particular zone, then that ability can only be activated (or trigger, as the case may be) when the card is in that zone. On this particular card, part of the cost of the activated ability is &amp;quot;Exile Dauntless Cathar from your graveyard&amp;quot;, so you can only activate the ability when the card is already in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that in general, activated abilities &lt;em&gt;cannot&lt;/em&gt; be activated while the card is in your hand. Most activated abilities can only be activated while the card is on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The specific rule that covers this is &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;112.6&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.6k&lt;/strong&gt; An ability whose cost or effect specifies that it moves the object it’s on out of a particular zone functions only in that zone, unless that ability’s trigger condition, or a previous part of that ability’s cost or effect, specifies that the object is put into that zone. The same is true if the effect of that ability creates a delayed triggered ability whose effect moves the object out of a particular zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T04:02:34.320" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32379" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32380" CreationDate="2016-09-10T20:49:42.820" Score="4" ViewCount="9876" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEssence%20Flux%5d&quot;&gt;Essence Flux&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exile target creature you control, then return that card to the battlefield under its owner's control. If it's a Spirit, put a +1/+1 counter on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, say I have a 1/1 Sanctuary Cat cast onto the battlefield. According to above, I would exile it, then return it right back? Is that right? I don't see what purpose this serves unless it was a spirit. Could you clarify if I have this right and what the benefit is?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75Z81.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/75Z81.png&quot; alt=&quot;Essence Flux&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-10T23:04:16.010" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T00:33:16.737" Title="What's the use of blinking a creature out (such as with Essence Flux)?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32380" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32379" CreationDate="2016-09-10T21:03:14.213" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;There are many uses for so-called &amp;quot;flicker&amp;quot; effects like from Essence Flux.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The namesake &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flicker&quot;&gt;Flicker&lt;/a&gt; was the first card to exile and immediately return the target. This is where the mechanic got its unofficial name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature that returns is a whole new object without any relation to its previous existence. That means that, for example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The creature will trigger all applicable &amp;quot;enters the battlefield&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;leaves the battlefield&amp;quot; abilities.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If the creature you blink is being targeted by a spell or ability, then it will lose track of the creature and not affect it, or will &lt;a href=&quot;https://mtg.fandom.com/wiki/Fizzle&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;fizzle&lt;/a&gt; if that creature was the only target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Auras and equipments attached to the creature will fall off of it, and counters get removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It will return untapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All temporary effects, such as from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Giant%20Growth&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Death%20Wind&quot;&gt;Death Wind&lt;/a&gt;, will be removed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The new creature has no damage marked on it, so it's like an improved regeneration effect.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you blink the creature during combat, it will be removed from combat and will neither deal nor take any damage, but (if it was already assigned as a blocker), the creature blocked by it will still be blocked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other blink cards such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Flicker&quot;&gt;Flicker&lt;/a&gt; can also target enemy creatures (though not at instant speed), which can be a very valuable play at the right time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, blink effects are a powerful trick that can throw a wrench in your opponent's plans at a crucial moment. The +1/+1 counter for spirits is more of a bonus in most cases, but of course it allows you to get even more utility out of this spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2021-04-20T00:33:16.737" LastActivityDate="2021-04-20T00:33:16.737" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32381" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32387" CreationDate="2016-09-11T00:40:59.960" Score="3" ViewCount="302" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player 1 won Game 1, Player 2 won Game 2, and it is at some point during Game 3 now. In Game 2, P2's &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=212240&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Venser, Sojourner&lt;/a&gt; exiled a number of P1's cards and P1 doesn't remember the exiled cards when presenting his deck to P2 for Game 3, but P2 did notice but did not notify P1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the game progresses, P2 realizes he is losing and then calls a judge, telling him or her that P1's deck is illegal as it is under 60 cards. It should be mentioned that P2 knew the deck was illegal and withheld this information until it was opportune for him or her.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the specific rule violations on both players, specifically P2? Does it change if P2 did not know the deck was illegal and only just noticed it? Just curious if P2's failure to notify P1 of their illegal deck changes the penalty for P1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18272" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T18:41:38.463" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T18:41:38.463" Title="Penalties involved in withholding knowledge of a rule violation" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32382" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32385" CreationDate="2016-09-11T00:46:13.310" Score="3" ViewCount="3195" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGeist-Fueled%20Scarecrow%5d&quot;&gt;Geist-Fueled Scarecrow&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creature spells you cast cost 1 more to cast.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see the strategy in casting a 4/4 creature and then penalizing myself for the added creature cast cost... Please elaborate, thanks! &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVJoW.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/cVJoW.png&quot; alt=&quot;Scarecrow&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T00:56:55.690" LastActivityDate="2020-07-01T04:05:20.833" Title="Why would I want to increase the costs of creatures that I cast?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32383" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32365" CreationDate="2016-09-11T01:05:36.543" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You don't have a sound understanding of how lands and mana work yet, I'm afraid. I think you haven't read a good explanation of what's going on with them, unless Jefromi's answer did the trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &lt;em&gt;think&lt;/em&gt; your mental model is that merely having lands means you can cast spells (e.g. you can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHerald%20of%20Kozilek%5d&quot;&gt;Herald of Kozilek&lt;/a&gt; as soon as you have 1 mountain, 1 island, and 1 of any other land), and therefore dual-color lands must be two types of land &amp;mdash; but this is wholly incorrect, so if that's what's going on it's no wonder you're getting confused. You're missing some big parts of the picture, the biggest of which is &lt;strong&gt;mana&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Coastal Tower&lt;/strong&gt; is just a land that sits there. It's never two types of land; it's just Coastal Tower. It doesn't count as an island &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; a plains and doesn't have to. It has an activated ability that lets you tap it to get one of two kinds of mana (white or blue, your choice) and you can choose differently or the same each time you use that ability. You use that mana (not the land) to cast spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I recommend you read &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the official Quick Start Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; (that's a link to the PDF for them) to get that basic explanation, or the slightly longer &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_mtgm11_rulebook_lr_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011 Basic Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. In particular, you need to read the Quick Start Rules' section on &lt;strong&gt;lands&lt;/strong&gt; (page 4) and &lt;strong&gt;casting spells&lt;/strong&gt; (page 6). The rest will also be a useful read; the quick start rules explain things a bit better than the fold-up sheet distributed in products nowadays.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Mana symbols &amp;ne; land&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands are used to give you &lt;strong&gt;mana&lt;/strong&gt; (white, blue, black, red, green, or colorless&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;), which is a resource or currency you gather and then spend on spells or abilities. Mana doesn't come &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; from the &quot;types of land&quot; or even just lands: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bForest%5d&quot;&gt;Forest&lt;/a&gt; will give you green mana, but so will &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlossoming%20Sands%5d&quot;&gt;Blossoming Sands&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWoodland%20Stream%5d&quot;&gt;Woodland Stream&lt;/a&gt;, despite neither one being a forest. Creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Mystic%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOpaline%20Unicorn%5d&quot;&gt;Opaline Unicorn&lt;/a&gt; can also add mana to your mana pool, and they are not any kind of land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you cast spells, you'll do it by &lt;strong&gt;spending the mana&lt;/strong&gt; you acquired from various sources (lands, creatures, etc). You don't cast spells merely by having lands sitting there: merely having three forests and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlossoming%20Sands%5d&quot;&gt;Blossoming Sands&lt;/a&gt; doesn't all on its own let you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlare%20of%20Subdual%5d&quot;&gt;Glare of Subdual&lt;/a&gt;; you actually have to tap them and get the mana from them and use &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; to cast it. (Which means you don't also get to spend that mana on other spells this turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of these cards I've mentioned have an &lt;strong&gt;activated ability&lt;/strong&gt; which is what you use to get mana. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/en_mtgm11_rulebook_lr_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;2011 Basic Rules&lt;/a&gt; explain activated abilities on &lt;strong&gt;page 11.&lt;/strong&gt; Nowadays basic lands just have that activated ability implied; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4174&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;older basic lands&lt;/a&gt; had it written down explicitly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1: White, blue, black, red, green, and colorless are represented by the letters {W} {U} {B} {R} {G} {C} in that order. In cards before the Oath of the Gatewatch set (printed in 2016), cards that gave you colorless mana just represented it with a number that looked exactly like the generic component of a mana cost, e.g. {1}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2019-03-20T10:23:45.030" LastActivityDate="2019-03-20T10:23:45.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32384" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32382" CreationDate="2016-09-11T03:19:48.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Under current rules, there does not seem to be any use for its ability, However, abilities of spells and creatures do not always have to be beneficial to their caster.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many years ago, there was a rule called &quot;mana burn&quot;. At the end of each phase or step, all players would lose all their unspent mana and lose that much life, and there are cards that punish you for having untapped lands. Having to pay extra mana for your creatures would allow you to evade both penalties. However, mana burn has always been a niche rule, and strategies building around it have been equally niche. Therefore, bringing a card that counters mana burn strategies would have been even more niche and practically irrelevant. Nowadays, with the mana burn rule long gone, even that niche use is non-existant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only explanation is that the Scarecrow's ability is simply a drawback to balance the card, because the overall power of a card depends on all of its characteristics such as cost, power/toughness, and abilities. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T03:19:48.607" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32385" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32382" CreationDate="2016-09-11T03:36:59.630" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a few ideas that spring to mind. The simple answer is that it's intended specifically as a downside. Most 4/4 creatures that cost {4} (without requiring specific types) have some sort of downside. If it didn't have the downside, it might not get printed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if it's supposed to be a strict downside, though, there can still be unusual cases where you can take advantage of the downside. You could give it to an opponent with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHarmless%20Offering%5d&quot;&gt;Harmless Offering&lt;/a&gt; and make them pay the extra costs. I guarantee you that at least one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bZedruu%20the%20Greathearted%5d&quot;&gt;Zedruu the Greathearted&lt;/a&gt; player out there is running this. You can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEtched%20Oracle%5d&quot;&gt;Etched Oracle&lt;/a&gt; for {5} and get a full sunburst. Maybe you want to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHall%20of%20the%20Bandit%20Lord%5d&quot;&gt;Hall of the Bandit Lord&lt;/a&gt; to cast a big creature and give it haste, but it has no generic mana in its mana cost. Are these strategies particularly strong or likely to see significant play? Probably not, but there's a lot of players who enjoy finding ways to take advantage of things intended to be downsides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2020-06-30T20:38:03.383" LastActivityDate="2020-06-30T20:38:03.383" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32387" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32381" CreationDate="2016-09-11T04:20:09.673" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Player 1 would be committing a Tournament Error (Deck/Decklist Problem) under item 1 of section 3.9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/ContentResources/Wizards/WPN/Main/Documents/Magic_The_Gathering_Infraction_Procedure_Guide_PDF2.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;IPG&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The deck and/or decklist contain an illegal number&#xA;   of cards for the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If decklists are registered, it's also a violation of item 4:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The contents of the presented deck and sideboard do not match the decklist registered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The penalty for this is a game loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 would be Cheating under section 4.8, which a player commits if he or she &quot;notices an offense committed in his or her (or a teammate's) match and does not call attention to it&quot;, if these two conditions are met:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The player must be attempting to gain advantage from his or her action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The player must be aware that he or she is doing something illegal.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The penalty for this is disqualification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 might also be committing a Game Play Error under section 2.6, which is defined like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player allows another player in the game to commit a Game Play Error involving an effect or action that he or she does not control, and has not pointed it out immediately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 would have to be committing a Game Play Error for this to apply. Section 2.5, which defines Game Rule Violation, &quot;handles violations of the Comprehensive Rules that are not covered by the other Game Play Errors&quot;. A Tournament Error is not a violation of the comprehensive rules, but the comprehensive rules do say this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;100.2a In constructed play (a way of playing in which each player creates his or her own deck ahead of time), each deck must contain at least sixty cards&#xA;  Even if this means sections 2.5 and 2.6 apply, the penalties for both are less than the penalties for violations under sections 3.9 and 4.8. Also, the IPG suggests using the latter two in this case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a judge believes a player is intentionally not pointing out &#xA;  other players’ illegal actions, either for his or her own advantage, or in the hope of bringing it up at a more &#xA;  strategically advantageous time, they should consider an Unsporting Conduct — Cheating infraction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="18318" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T17:43:40.310" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T17:43:40.310" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32388" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="9223" CreationDate="2016-09-11T04:28:59.520" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/micku/mana-cost&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This GitHub repository&lt;/a&gt; has them. &lt;a href=&quot;https://github.com/micku/mana-cost/raw/master/images/mana.svg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is a direct link to the SVG file. The readme says that it uses the ones from the Slightly Magic forum thread that user1873 linked to in their answer, but it also has the colorless mana symbol. &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.slightlymagic.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&amp;amp;t=4430&amp;amp;start=45#p201343&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;This post on the same forum thread&lt;/a&gt; has the energy symbol.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see any copyright information, so be careful. They are also protected by trademark.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T04:28:59.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32389" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-11T14:34:01.980" Score="9" ViewCount="1355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it possible to use a weapon making noise if there's no more room for noise tokens on a location? And is it possible to use a weapon making noise in the colony, knowing that you can't put noise token on the colony?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18321" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T15:04:57.370" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T14:17:37.780" Title="Can I use a weapon that makes noise when there's no room for more noise tokens?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32391" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32389" CreationDate="2016-09-11T19:24:40.127" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Read the description on the weapon cards. Most of them doesn't make noise. Ones that do, have a clause: &quot;add noise &lt;strong&gt;if possible&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. Thus, you don't add noise in the colony or if 4 noise tokens are already present at the location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeBUy.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QeBUy.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="14400" LastEditDate="2018-01-03T14:17:37.780" LastActivityDate="2018-01-03T14:17:37.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32393" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-11T22:49:08.433" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T22:49:08.433" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T22:49:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32394" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-11T22:49:08.433" Score="0" Body="Hearthstone is off topic for our site as a fully PC-based game. Ask on Arqade instead (gaming.stackexchange.com)." OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-11T22:49:08.433" LastActivityDate="2016-09-11T22:49:08.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32395" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32396" CreationDate="2016-09-12T14:37:19.607" Score="1" ViewCount="926" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the transform ability of a card has triggered and then the opponent plays &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSummary%20Dismissal%5d&quot;&gt;Summary Dismissal&lt;/a&gt;, what happens to the card that would have been transformed? Does it un-transform or go the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10219" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T17:59:13.607" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T17:59:13.607" Title="Does Summary Dismissal Send a Transformed Card to the graveyard?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32396" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32395" CreationDate="2016-09-12T14:58:10.263" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If Summary Dismissal is cast in response to an ability that transforms a card that ability will be countered and thus removed from the stack. Since the ability to would transform the card no longer exists the card will not transform (it will not un-transform since it never transformed in the first place). If it was an activated ability that was countered it can still be activated again assuming the costs for it can be payed a second time. If it was a triggered ability it will trigger again the next time its condition is met.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Summary Dismissal is cast after a card has transformed it will have no effect of the card at all since it only effects abilities that are currently on the stack, and can't do anything about ones that have already resolved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Only activated and triggered abilities on the stack are countered. Static abilities of objects remain unaffected, and activated and triggered abilities of objects may be activated or may trigger again later in the turn. Spells and abilities that have already resolved aren’t affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Countering transform abilities should never cause a permanent to go to the graveyard, the closest thing I can find is cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAccursed%20Witch%5d&quot;&gt;Accursed Witch&lt;/a&gt; that die and return to the battlefield transformed, in this case they would stay in the graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T14:58:10.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32397" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32338" CreationDate="2016-09-12T16:20:12.540" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you move the influence disk, pick up the disk from the hex and place according to the rules i.e. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to a hex that does not contain an Influence Disc or an enemy&#xA;Ship and is adjacent to a hex where you have a disc&#xA;or a Ship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;to a hex where only you have a Ship.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The disk cannot move across the explored space on it's own&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Q: Using the Influence action, I can move an Influence Disc from a hex to its neighbor through a Wormhole connection. May I move the Disc that created this connection in the first place?&#xA;  A: No. If you move the disc, there is no longer a connection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Source: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/711246/eclipse-official-faq&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/711246/eclipse-official-faq&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15174" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T16:20:12.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32398" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="21207" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:13:03.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a couple of points to address here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you form a Yaku (let's say a 1 point Yaku : Tane, 5 animals),&#xA;you've got the possibility to call Koi-Koi and keep playing the turn&#xA;instead of scoring your points. In this case, the turn's winner will&#xA;double his points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you declare koi-koi, then it is your opponent that will get double points if that he/she manages to complete a yaku before you. Declaring koi-koi by itself does not give the one who did it a doubling of points. Rather, it's a risk-reward tactic to create a better hand and score more points. After all, if you score 7 or more points they will double as well, but doing often requires declaring koi-koi, rather than settling for a lower score. This opens you up to possible retaliation if your opponent steals the koi-koi.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The remainder depends on the rule set being used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent forms a 1 point Yaku, and also call Koi-Koi&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In fact, the question could be different. To avoid this kind of situation, is it allowed to call Koi-Koi if my opponent has already did it, or am I forced to score my points?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sometimes it's only allowed to declare koi-koi once per hand played. So someone calling koi-koi after you did might not be allowed. In the rules as specified by the booklet with the Nintendo hanafuda decks, it is indeed indicated koi-koi can only be declared once. Since koi-koi rules tend to vary depending on who's playing, it may however be perfectly fine to allow it. I myself prefer playing games where it's allowed but it tends to make for tense games, although sometimes it can be exploited when someone's got a strong hand and their opponent hardly has anything to counter with. Possible variations are&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Koi-koi only allowed once per hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Koi-koi allowed after opponent called it, but not twice in a row by the same player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Koi-koi always allowed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first would make for the tightest play but with some limitations in how much a game can turn around or how well you can retaliate. The second allows for some more dramatic comebacks. The third is the most lenient, but can also lead to exploiting a hand too much and monstrous scores. In the end players must decide on what they enjoy most. It seems hard to pin any &amp;quot;official&amp;quot; rules. Kind of like how there's multiple betting structures in poker variants (for example, you could play Texas-hold-em no limit or pot limit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then there's the matter of what happens if someone calls koi-koi, but the game finishes without any new yaku being made. If koi-koi can be called only once per game, the options are to have the player who called it keeping the points of the hand they had, or to award no points. The latter option makes koi-koi a bit more dangerous, because now you not only have to bet againt your opponent making a new yaku before you, but also that you can complete a new yaku before the end of the game. Also, it would be typical to lose the state of oya (dealer) if you called koi-koi but then failed to make a new yaku and get no points. Clubhouse Games on the Nintendo DS, featuring koi-koi, lets the player keep their points if they call koi-koi but the game ends without new yaku. It also allows koi-koi only once. The booklet with Nintendo hanafuda decks from the European edition seems to indicate that failing to make a new yaku after koi-koi ends the game on a draw, with no points scored and the oya going to the opponent. Again, I think it's a matter of choice for the players and a source of variation in the game. Not awarding points when the cards run out makes the game more exciting and introduces more risk-reward mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If koi-koi can be called multiple times per game, you either still have the choice of ending a on a draw without points awarded, or letting the last person to declare koi-koi get their points. If they did so after the other player had called koi-koi before, it would make sense to give them double points because they stole the koi-koi attempt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think the strictest set of rules would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Only one koi-koi allowed per hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ending by running out of cards awards no points (draw)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ending on a draw after calling koi-koi makes the opponent the oya&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18329" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T17:13:03.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32400" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32401" CreationDate="2016-09-12T17:43:32.560" Score="6" ViewCount="1190" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if a particular player is said to skip his/her combat phase in a Two-Headed Giant game (for instance, if someone had cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=19554&quot;&gt;Moment of Silence&lt;/a&gt;)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the whole team unable to attack, or is only that particular player unable to?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14492" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-12T21:56:31.467" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T22:34:26.243" Title="A player to skip combat phase in Two-Headed Giant" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32401" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32400" CreationDate="2016-09-12T18:22:50.920" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If an effect causes a player to skip a step, phase, or turn, that player’s team does so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, if an effect gives a player an extra turn or adds a phase or a step to that player’s turn, that player’s team takes the extra turn, phase, or step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T18:22:50.920" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32402" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32400" CreationDate="2016-09-12T22:34:26.243" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The whole team is affected, according to rule 805.8 as of the 28 August 2016 revision of the comprehensive rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;805.8. If an effect gives a player an extra turn or adds a phase or step to that player’s turn, that player’s team takes the extra turn, phase, or step. &lt;strong&gt;If an effect causes a player to skip a step, phase, or turn, that player’s team does so.&lt;/strong&gt; If a single effect causes more than one player on the same team to add or skip the same step, phase, or turn, that team adds or skips only that step, phase, or turn. If an effect causes a player to control another player, the controller of that effect controls the affected player’s team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastActivityDate="2016-09-12T22:34:26.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32403" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32404" CreationDate="2016-09-13T04:32:21.400" Score="5" ViewCount="30762" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have looked all over for this and can't find any good information on the sleep status, even in the rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This came up because in a game recently with a friend: I was put to sleep with an attack that had 100% chance to do so, after I had less cards in my deck, effectively causing me to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As I currently understand it, flipping to remove the sleep status happens after my turn, so even if I remove it they can just apply it right away again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct way that sleep works? If so, how do I avoid automatically losing as soon as an opponent has a sleep attack?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18337" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T20:43:08.320" LastActivityDate="2018-03-23T18:36:26.293" Title="Pokemon Asleep Status" Tags="|pokemon|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32404" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32403" CreationDate="2016-09-13T05:45:37.083" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.pokemon-organizedplay.eu/pdf/TCG-rulebook-en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, p15:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Between turns&lt;/strong&gt;, flip a coin. If you flip heads, the Pokémon wakes up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you flip a coin to wake up your pokemon after &lt;em&gt;every&lt;/em&gt; turn - &lt;strong&gt;both yours and your opponent's&lt;/strong&gt;. This means that even if the opponent can put your active pokemon to sleep every turn and you have no other way of cancelling it (like evolving the pokemon, or sending it to the Bench with a &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/File:SwitchBaseSet95.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Switch&lt;/a&gt;), there's still a half chance that by the time your turn starts it'll be awake and able to act.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T16:07:22.653" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T16:07:22.653" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32405" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32406" CreationDate="2016-09-13T12:57:38.703" Score="2" ViewCount="1284" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I take a devilfish for my strike team in a combined arms detachment, will the transport have objective secured even after the unit has disembarked? If so, can I disembark the fire warriors on an objective and then take the devilfish to score at another objective?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T22:33:50.233" Title="Does a dedicated transport for a troops unit retain objective secured after the troops disembark?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32406" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32405" CreationDate="2016-09-13T13:20:24.603" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It does, and you can. You don't even have to start the Strike team in the devilfish, so you could begin the game holding two objectives. A transport bought separately (generally most other transports are Fast Attack) will not have Objective Secured unless it is &quot;Troops&quot; or the mission says it's type has ObSec. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's worth noting that if you have Pathfinders in a Devilfish and Firewarriors in a second, only one of them will have Objective Secured. The only really confusing situation is if both units disembark and then switch vehicles... Units in a transport do not confer (or revoke) ObSec status to the vehicle. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2016-09-13T22:33:50.233" LastActivityDate="2016-09-13T22:33:50.233" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32409" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-14T06:53:25.690" Score="1" ViewCount="379" Body="&lt;p&gt;OK, with the Star Realms Pirates of the Dark Star co-op challenge, if a player dies but at least one other remaining team member still beats the Pirates, is it a team win or an individual win? e.g. if Bob and Sally play, and Bob is eliminated, but Sally still hangs on and wins it, is it a team victory, or was it just Sally who won?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="386" LastActivityDate="2017-09-10T12:51:10.463" Title="do all players win star realms pirates co-op" Tags="|cooperation|star-realms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32411" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32436" CreationDate="2016-09-14T13:48:06.243" Score="1" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say that skimmers who have jinked can only fire snapshots (BS 1) on the next shooting phase. On the other hand, the markerlight seeker rule says that one can spend a markerlight token to have a unit carrying a seeker missile fire that missile, resolving the shot at BS 5 and not counting as having shot a weapon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my skimmer has a seeking missile and had to jink in the previous opponent turn, will it still resolve the seeker missile shot at BS 5 if I spend a markerlight to use the seeker rule and fire it? Don't I have to fire the missile as a snapshot because the skimmer jinked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastEditorUserId="14266" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T06:51:37.567" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T03:20:32.183" Title="Can a unit use a markerlight token to fire a seeker missile at BS 5 after jinking?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32412" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-14T18:48:50.043" Score="1" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSkeleton%20Key%5d&quot;&gt;Skeleton Key&lt;/a&gt; states: &quot;whenever equipped creature deals combat damage to a player you may draw a card. If you do, discard a card.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is - do you discard the card before you draw the card or do you get to see the drawn card before you discard? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18347" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T22:02:57.220" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T07:31:34.857" Title="When do I discard a card for Skeleton Key?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32413" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32412" CreationDate="2016-09-14T18:52:41.217" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;You draw the card first. You can even discard the card that you drew. In general, you always follow instructions in the order written on the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Interestingly, this doesn't appear to be specified in the basic rulebook or quick start guide. But here's the rule from the comprehensive rules for it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2c The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. However, replacement effects may modify these actions [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-09-14T20:25:49.837" LastActivityDate="2016-09-14T20:25:49.837" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32414" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="549" CreationDate="2016-09-14T19:31:40.387" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;As @panavia pointed out, a weighted dice which re-weights the probabilities every turn based on the historical outcome is the best choice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem as I see it is that since one game is not long enough, the true distribution is never reached and events such as 3 5's in a row can have fatal consequences for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I wrote a &lt;a href=&quot;https://stats.stackexchange.com/questions/233816/reach-true-probability-distribution-in-fewer-simulations/234511#234511&quot;&gt;post (click here)&lt;/a&gt; on the topic in cross validated with R-code for simulation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14456" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:45:00.873" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T04:25:07.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32416" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-14T23:50:56.057" Score="8" ViewCount="1629" Body="&lt;p&gt;In which situations should my opening lead be a trump?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, when the opponents have a 4-4 fit, or when I have a singleton etc.?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastEditorUserId="600" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T17:54:14.470" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T02:16:05.813" Title="When should I lead a trump?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32417" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32418" CreationDate="2016-09-15T01:50:58.390" Score="14" ViewCount="1774" Body="&lt;p&gt;A 'problem' with some coop board games is that it's easy for a dominant person or people to take over all decision making in the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I personally see this happen in Pandemic all the time, even though it tacitly tries to prevent this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can only think of three techniques.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hidden information.&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Each player has information only they can see, so all players can be involved as information sources. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Pandemic&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a side note, as far as I have seen this is not very effective, it's usually very easy to get all the 'pertininent' information quickly and move onto decision making&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Timed turns&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The players have a limited amount of time to make their decisions, and there are more decisions to make than one person can make, or more information to analyse than one person can consume. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;XCOM - The Board Game&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Space Alert&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Distrust&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Players cannot trust the information other players give, so they must make their own choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Shadows over Camelot&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Resistance&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This type predominantly uses a traitor or potential traitor to cause the distrust. Perhaps there are other games that use a different mechanic such as forcing players to lie about certain things etc?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17651" LastActivityDate="2017-05-31T20:20:34.237" Title="How have coop board games prevented a player(s) from taking over decision making" Tags="|game-design|cooperation|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32418" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32417" CreationDate="2016-09-15T04:45:13.877" Score="16" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Simultaneous choice&lt;/strong&gt; is another method of forcing players to stumble over each other a bit. Space Hulk Death Angel uses this to great effect - players have to choose between their available actions, placing the card facedown, before all choices are revealed simultaneously and then executed in order. Robo Rally can be played in teams, and there you can really get in each other's way by accident.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;&lt;strong&gt;Active Player chooses&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; is another mechanism a lot of FFG coop games use to pass the decision making load around. Yes, everybody else has to keep their mouth shut while the player makes a choice, but if you aren't following the rules you're not really playing the game, are you? In a way I think this is a good way to allow table talk most of the time but give players short, important windows where they can keep from doing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping everybody busy with their own problems seems a reasonable approach, and the LOTR LCG does this fairly well - enemies are dispensed from a central &quot;staging area&quot; to engage with a particular player, and in this way they fade from everybody else's view a little bit. I suppose a succinct way to phrase this approach would be &quot;&lt;strong&gt;specialization&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Hidden information&lt;/strong&gt; can be pushed farther than it is most of the time. Hanabi is an example of a cooperative game in which information sharing is really the central mechanic, and it's the first coop game I've played that really couldn't possibly be done as solitaire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Narrative&lt;/strong&gt; can also help remove the &quot;single decision maker&quot; problem by engrossing all the players in the events and giving them agency. I recently played a game of Mansions of Madness in which my daughter made some choices against my advice that cost us the game, but really they were in character for her (too much curiosity is what did it), and I was glad she felt confident enough to go ahead. We also talked afterward about lessons learned. :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, regarding &lt;strong&gt;distrust&lt;/strong&gt;, Shadows and Resistance each have a &quot;bad&quot; player from the start, but in some games (e.g. the Insanity mechanism in Mansions of Madness) a player can become bad, or have other weird behaviors emerge unbeknownst to the other players as a result of game events.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@matt points out in &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/32422/318&quot;&gt;another answer&lt;/a&gt; that randomness (which is essentially information hidden from all the players) can help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T18:21:11.950" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32419" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32412" CreationDate="2016-09-15T07:31:34.857" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;To draw a card you have to put it in your hand.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;While you have it in your hand, you see it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;From the game's point of view there's no in-between time when the card is no longer in your library but not yet in your hand.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So yes, you get to see the card before you perform the discard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T07:31:34.857" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32421" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32428" CreationDate="2016-09-15T12:32:30.193" Score="9" ViewCount="2547" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuarantine%20Field%5d&quot;&gt;Quarantine Field&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrisela%2c%20Voice%20of%20Nightmares%5d&quot;&gt;Brisela, Voice of Nightmares&lt;/a&gt; in play for my opponent?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just tried, Magic Online wouldn't let me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But with X as 2 Quarantine Field has a CMC of 6.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this right?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T13:38:26.233" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T21:58:13.830" Title="Can I cast Quarantine Field with Brisela in play for my opponent?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32422" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32417" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:08:38.840" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Andrew provides an excellent answer, I'll just add one more option. &lt;strong&gt;Randomness&lt;/strong&gt; can prevent &quot;alpha player syndrome&quot; to an extent, by making the outcome of choices uncertain. In a deterministic game with no hidden information, some actions are objectively better than other, and the alpha player will campaign for these. If there's an element of randomness to the game, it's not possible to know the utility of any particular move - depending on what happens, any one of a number of moves could be the best play at any time. This can promote a bit more discussion and reduce the effect of the one guy who knows everything about a game and can identify optimal moves faster and more frequently than the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Forbidden Desert does this to an extent with the shifting board state. Depending on which way the sandstorm moves and when the sun beats down, what looked like a great plan can suddenly go sour. Sometimes there's no obvious best move that the team quarterback can push for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T13:08:38.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32423" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32416" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:20:01.390" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whether you should lead a trump depends on the sort of defense you'll want to execute on the hand. Broadly speaking, there are five lines of defense:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A forcing defense (you force declarer to ruff, making them run out of trumps while the defense still has them). This is a reasonable approach when you or partner hold four trumps, declarer is in a 4-3 fit, or declarer is known to have shortness. Leading a trump here is usually fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A ruffing defense (you want to ruff declarer's winners in a side suit). This is a reasonable approach when you or partner are short in a side suit held by opponents. Usually you'll lead a singleton, or an ace in a suit partner holds a singleton in. Leading a trump is usually fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An active defense (you try to take your side-suit winners before declarer can establish a side suit). Against a trump contract, you may take this approach when dummy has shown a long, strong suit, when opponents have shown extras and tried for (or bid) slam, or when you can see that declarer's second suit is breaking. Leading a trump is usually fatal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A passive defense (you try to make leads that don't give away tricks). Against a trump contract, you may take this approach when you know or suspect that your tricks are safe, as long as you don't give declarer extra opportunities to finesse, create entries in dummy, etc. Leading a trump here is often safe.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Cutting down ruffs (you try to prevent declarer from ruffing tricks in a side suit). This is often right when the auction indicates opponents are in a misfit, or when you have good cards in trumps, or when dummy has shown shortness in a side suit. Leading a trump here is often required.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T13:20:01.390" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32424" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32421" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:25:55.517" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=414305&quot;&gt;Gatherer page for Brisela&lt;/a&gt; has this ruling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For spells with {X} in their mana costs, use the value chosen for X to determine if the spell’s converted mana cost is 3 or less. For example, your opponent could cast Burn from Within (a spell with mana cost {X}{R}) with X equal to 3, but not with X equal to 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should have been able to cast the spell, so you should report this as a bug.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18359" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T13:25:55.517" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32425" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32421" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:29:04.533" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can cast Quarantine Field. &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.magicjudges.org/en/w/CR:202&quot;&gt;Rule 202.3c&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;202.3c When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with an {X} in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the&#xA;  stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object&#xA;  is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And &lt;a href=&quot;http://wiki.magicjudges.org/en/w/CR:601&quot;&gt;Rule 601.2b&lt;/a&gt; specifies that the XX have a value as soon as you state that you want to play that spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] If the spell has a variable cost that will be paid as it’s being cast&#xA;  (such as an {X} in its mana cost; see rule 107.3), the player&#xA;  announces the value of that variable. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T14:29:23.180" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T14:29:23.180" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32426" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32417" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:30:16.017" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Semi-Cooperative games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is &quot;semi-cooperative&quot; games. &lt;strong&gt;Legendary&lt;/strong&gt; is a good example; at the end whomever saves the most bystanders and beats up the most villains is the &quot;biggest winner&quot;, but if the players fail to cooperate they could all lose together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T18:38:42.567" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T18:38:42.567" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32427" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32421" CreationDate="2016-09-15T13:30:16.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;You should be able to cast it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the gatherer's ruling on Brisela:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For spells with {X} in their mana costs, use the value chosen for X to determine if the spell’s converted mana cost is 3 or less. For example, your opponent could cast Burn from Within (a spell with mana cost {X}{R}) with X equal to 3, but not with X equal to 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Meaning you can cast Quarantine Field for any cost greater than 0 as it will have a cmc of at least 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T13:30:16.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32428" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32421" CreationDate="2016-09-15T14:33:07.033" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuarantine%20Field%5d&quot;&gt;Quarantine Field&lt;/a&gt; while your opponent controls &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrisela%2c%20Voice%20of%20Nightmares%5d&quot;&gt;Brisela, Voice of Nightmares&lt;/a&gt;, as long as you choose 1 or greater for X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First, before you even begin to cast a spell, the game checks to see if you are allowed to do so. The game ignores any effects that require information determined during the spell’s proposal (this is an exception described in 601.2). This means that we ignore Brisela's effect for now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2. [...] A player must be legally allowed to cast the spell to begin this process (see rule 601.3), &lt;strong&gt;ignoring any effect that would prohibit that spell from being cast based on information determined during that spell’s proposal&lt;/strong&gt;. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Second, we follow the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot;&gt;steps for casting a spell&lt;/a&gt; as described by 601.2a through 601.2i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2a - Put the spell on the stack. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2b - Choose a value for X. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;...&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;601.2e - Check if the spell can legally be cast. (This time, no exception is made for effects that require information determined during the spell’s proposal.)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When we reach 601.2e, the spell is on the stack and has a value chosen for X. According to 202.3c, the converted mana cost of a spell on the stack includes X.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;202.3c When calculating the converted mana cost of an object with an {X} in its mana cost, X is treated as 0 while the object is not on the stack, and X is treated as the number chosen for it while the object is on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you choose a value of 2 for X while casting Quarantine field, then the converted mana cost will be 6. 6 is not &quot;3 or less&quot;, and so the spell is legal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T16:24:33.093" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T16:24:33.093" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32429" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32430" CreationDate="2016-09-15T14:34:20.713" Score="1" ViewCount="412" Body="&lt;p&gt;So trying to read the 2HG format rules, and i'm not sure i understood how does it works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any team has a shared life pool starting from 30. Any damage to a player is taken from the shared hp, so when it reach 0 the team lose the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the damage is dealt to a single player. So there could be a case where the team lose the game even if the shared health pool is not zero (excluding special cards). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example:&#xA;if Team A cast a card that says i.e. &quot;Deal 10 damage to target player&quot;, and now the team B has 20 life points. Team A deals 10 damages to player 1 in Team B, and he can't block this action (neither is teammate), it means that since the single player life is the (total life)/2 = 10 Player 1 of Team B reach 0 and then the team lose the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18360" LastEditorUserId="8021" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T17:24:41.913" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T18:08:49.623" Title="2 Hg Team damage vs player damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-two-headed-giant|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32430" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32429" CreationDate="2016-09-15T14:54:35.810" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dealing 10 damage to a single player will not kill a team that has 20 life. This is where you are going wrong:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the single player life is the (total life)/2&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This might have been true years ago (more on that later), but by current rules, individual players in two-headed giant do not have life totals. You cannot divide the total life in half and assign that to each player. The shared life total is the only life total that a team has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Correct: The team has 30 life. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Incorrect: Each individual player has 30 &amp;div; 2 life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if the opposing team had 20 life, and you somehow dealt 10 damage to &lt;em&gt;each&lt;/em&gt; opponent (e.g., with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFall%20of%20the%20Titans%5d&quot;&gt;Fall of the Titans&lt;/a&gt;), then you would kill the opposing team.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/9958/diego&quot;&gt;Another user&lt;/a&gt; discovered that, prior to April 23, 2010, a rule for life totals in two-headed giant stated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an effect needs to know the value of an individual player's life total, that effect uses the team's life total divided by two, rounded up, instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yawgatog.com/resources/rules-changes/wwk-roe/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;release of Rise of the Eldrazi&lt;/a&gt;, the rule changed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a cost or effect needs to know the value of an individual player's life total, that cost or effect uses the team's life total instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This could explain part of your confusion. I omitted rule numbers intentionally, because they don't line up exactly with the current rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T18:08:49.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32431" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32417" CreationDate="2016-09-15T16:44:28.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Real Time games&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another option is to have your game happen in real time. &lt;strong&gt;Damage Report&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;Captain Sonar&lt;/strong&gt; both happen in real time, and everyone needs to be doing their part all the time, so there literally isn't time for one person to be &quot;alpha gamer&quot; ... Though one could argue that the captain in Captain Sonar sort of needs to act as an &quot;alpha gamer&quot; for their team to do well, however they can't micro manage everything, which is the real issue in co-op games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T16:44:28.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32432" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32421" CreationDate="2016-09-15T21:58:13.830" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The converted mana cost you refer to applies only while the spell is on the stack.  While it's in your hand, the cmc is 2, with X being zero.  Thus, Brisela prevents you from even casting it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18361" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T21:58:13.830" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32433" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32662" CreationDate="2016-09-15T22:56:23.087" Score="3" ViewCount="1599" Body="&lt;p&gt;For all normal system activations, the real-time game is put on hold:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To activate a system...announce &quot;STOP&quot; and raise a fist. All other players stop what they are doing and listen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems important for multiple reasons, including making sure the game is in a single consistent state during the resolution of the activation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, the rules also seem to treat &lt;em&gt;triggering&lt;/em&gt; a mine differently from activating a system:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At any time, except while surfaced, the Captain can trigger a mine by raising a fist, announcing &quot;TRIGGERING A MINE&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So: &lt;strong&gt;does triggering a mine count as a system activation?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If yes, does that mean that you have to charge the system once to drop and then charge it again to trigger, and that the engineer must have weapons systems online for both drop and trigger? Or if no, does that mean that the game &lt;em&gt;isn't&lt;/em&gt; on hold while the trigger is resolved, even though the game &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; on hold while the very similar torpedo explosion is resolved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:04:50.940" Title="How are mines triggered in Captain Sonar?" Tags="|captain-sonar|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32434" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-15T22:58:25.343" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;External links: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/171131/captain-sonar&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/171131/captain-sonar&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T23:42:35.853" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T23:42:35.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32435" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-15T22:58:25.343" Score="0" Body="Captain Sonar is a real-time submarine warfare game for two teams of up to four players each." OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-09-15T23:42:38.340" LastActivityDate="2016-09-15T23:42:38.340" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32436" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32411" CreationDate="2016-09-16T01:55:51.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Seeker Missile is resolved at BS5, as per the rules and the latest &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2016/07/breaking-new-40k-tau-faq.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Tau FAQ&lt;/a&gt;*&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Q: If a Tau Vehicle is forced to make Snap Shots fires a seeker missile using a markerlight counter, what Ballistic Skill does this shot use?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A: Ballistic Skill 5. If the target is a Zooming Flyer, resolve the shot as a Snap Shot as normal, unless it is fired by a vehicle with a velocity tracker, in which case the missile can use the Skyfire rule if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Markerlight entry details the exact mechanics required for a Seeker missile to be used (Codex: Tau Empire, p122). It describes how it is used, and how it differs from the normal shooting rules, and the key part (in relation to this question) is &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;&quot;is resolved at Ballistic Skill 5&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;. This is important because regardless of the normal BS of the model firing the Seeker, it is resolved at BS5. This means that no matter what the normal requirements are for a to-hit roll (and any modifications to the targets base BS) it is resolved at BS5. (So if it helps, think of it as not the model firing the missile, but the missile guiding itself). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's a case of a specific rule trumps the general rule. The general rule is that jinking models can only fire Snap Shots (as per the BRB). The Specific Rule is that Seeker Missiles fired due to Markerlights are resolved at BS5. It's a similar function to the Counterfire Defence System (Overwatch at BS2 instead of BS1) or the Dark Angels detachment/formation bonus to Overwatch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;**Please note that this links to the BoLS article. GW are in the processing of &quot;releasing&quot; a lot of &quot;draft&quot; FAQ's that, while not appearing in the normal repository, are found on the official FB page, where all these images are from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastEditorDisplayName="user16341" LastEditDate="2016-09-16T03:20:32.183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T03:20:32.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32437" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32346" CreationDate="2016-09-16T08:05:35.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the answer above: Yes, the way to figure out what exactly happened is to openly discuss what each played did during the night. But as the players share their information, this could lead to one of the players finding out they were the werewolf. Him openly sharing their information would then have led to a loss, because he helped the others figuring out that he is the werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my experience, sharing bits and pieces of information is useful, but never placed all your cards on the table unless you are very very sure you are not unmasking yourself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18363" LastActivityDate="2016-09-16T08:05:35.200" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32438" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32346" CreationDate="2016-09-16T20:07:26.093" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is generally to the villagers advantage to be honest, as between their collective information, they can usually pinpoint the werewolves.  The werewolves have three typical strategies to combat this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Camouflage as a villager.  Have a story that is innocuous or actually backs up someone's story.  For example: a villager claims to be the robber.  Then you (the werewolf) claim to be the seer and confirm that they are the robber.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Have a coherent story that contradicts a villager story and argue it out.  For example, a villager claims to be the seer and that they saw you were a werewolf (which is true).  Then you (the werewolf) claim that you were the seer and you saw they were the robber, so they probably stole a werewolf card and are trying to get a villager killed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The best is to manipulate the share of honest information to get a specific person killed.  For example, you (the werewolf) claim to be the troublemaker and claim having switched a human with the person you know to be the other werewolf.  The other werewolf can have an unconvincing story, leading people to believe that they were originally the werewolf, but if they also believe you, then they will kill the person you claimed to have been on the other end of the swap.  Since you were not actually the troublemaker, this person is still a villager and the werewolves win.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding roles that want to die, such as the Tanner and the Minion, can make this easier for people who have trouble lying since these roles are intentionally trying to be unconvincing in their stories to attract votes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all players get one vote, no one dies.  In this case, if all people were villagers, the villagers win.  However, if there were any werewolves or a minion, team werewolves win.  Also, all a werewolf has to do in this case is vote for a different person than they are supposed to and someone has two votes and dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Advantages to the villagers for lying or withholding information are in a couple places:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If you got swapped with a werewolf (say by the troublemaker), you won't know you have something to hide until everyone has shared their information.  Thus, you have an advantage to sharing information later.  This is more important in games with more swaps, such as with the Village Idiot.  The counterpoint to this is that if people have conflicting stories, whoever spoke first is usually seen as more credible, so there advantages to both speaking early and speaking late.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Lying about what you did early on can cause people to give up information by making them think their role has changed even when it hasn't.  This is especially good with the Troublemaker as you can make a werewolf or minion think that they are a human and give up who the other werewolves are.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;It's usually a repeated game.  If the villagers do too well every game, you will have a hard time playing as a werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2019-02-19T13:35:33.170" LastActivityDate="2019-02-19T13:35:33.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32439" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24797" CreationDate="2016-09-16T21:08:03.820" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Greyjoys are a difficult Great House to play, however, I still think they are easier to play than the Lannisters, who even with special orders, are at a MASSIVE disadvantage against you, unless they ally with the Starks before you do. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My strategy would be as follows. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Move 1 ship from the port to Ironman's Bay. If Mobilization card is played, recruit 2 ships. In one turn, move them both to Ironman's Bay, where your second attack order is placed. Attack with 2 of them the sea besides Lannisport, move 1 to the sea at the edge of the map to the left, and leave 1 in Ironman's Bay. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the sea battle, play Aeron Greyjoy. That way your use of Victarion is secure even if Tyrion card is played. In 90% of cases, you will easily seize that sea. Next turn, march on Lannisport with your one Knight, and use Balon Greyjoy, since this time he most likely won't use Tyrion even if he has him (in that case, switch to Euron, and you almost always win anyway). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, once you finish off the Lannisters, do NOT seize any other castles. All of your enemies will be wary and likely to attack you, so keep a low profile and never, ever exceed 4 castles, 3 is best. Leave Moat Cailin and Flint's Finger to the Starks to appease them, since they will be the most likely to betray you (which will be secured by your 1 ship at Sunset Sea). If you take more than 4 castles while fighting with the Lannisters, leave some of them - you don't want to attract enemies, and you don't have much Power tokens to spare or enough armies to maintain them without overstretching. From now on - defence, support, mustering, crowns, until the last turn, putting your troops in the meantime to seize 3 castles in one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While betting, keep your position at the Iron Throne last (never bet on this one), you can also let go of the sword, since you are no longer as aggressive as in the beginning (2-3 power tokens on that, no more), and spare as much tokens as you can on the Raven.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also a good idea to strike an alliance with Martells at the beginning of the game, since they are far enough to be totally okay with this, and they will be very useful in stopping Baratheons. Other players generally agree to ally agains the Baratheons, since it is the most over-powered house in the game, and they very often win if other players don't conspire against them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason I believe attacking the Lannisters early is better than waiting, is that they are so close to you that they usually attack you anyway, and Greyjoy deck is less powerful if you are defending, instead of attacking. Plus, the longer you play, the more Starks will be closing in, so fighting your closest enemy without the wolves on your back is always better. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Actually, if the Mobilization is played, you can place both ships at the Ironman's Bay directly, without wasting march order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, as a disclaimer, of course it is no sure-fire way to crush the Lannisters early. Any plan can be foiled through sheer bad luck, but in my experience it is the best way to win the game. If you wait too long, you might survive to turn 10, but with little chances of winning. A defeat at turn 10 is every bit the same as defeat at turn 4. This approach is way more risky, but most of the Greyjoy victories I did or witnessed followed more or less this pattern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18370" LastEditorUserId="18370" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T11:23:37.283" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T11:23:37.283" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32441" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27727" CreationDate="2016-09-17T04:01:31.347" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/Sorry.PDF&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, under &quot;Moving Backwards&quot;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If you have successfully moved a pawn backwards at least two spaces beyond your own START space, you may, &lt;em&gt;on a subsequent turn&lt;/em&gt;, move into your own SAFETY ZONE without moving all the way around the board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T04:01:31.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32442" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32443" CreationDate="2016-09-17T04:30:21.850" Score="1" ViewCount="139" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Trajan, if nobody advances on the Senate, do the top two discs get the bonus tiles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-09-17T11:05:00.183" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T11:05:00.183" Title="In Trajan, can a player get a bonus tile with zero votes on the senate track?" Tags="|trajan|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32443" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32442" CreationDate="2016-09-17T08:45:32.333" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://passportgamestudios.com/pgs/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Trajan_Rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, page 9:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Ties are broken in favor of the player with the higher&#xA;  position on the senate track, in case of the same position&#xA;  in favor of that player whose disc is higher up in the&#xA;  stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if all discs are still at the starting point, the order of discs on the stack matters for determining Consul and Vice-Consul.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T08:45:32.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32444" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-17T17:25:52.037" Score="1" ViewCount="176" Body="&lt;p&gt;It was a game almost like kerplunk but it was a ball that moved around in a change and you had to take turns removing stickes to the cage till the ball got free &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18375" LastActivityDate="2016-09-17T17:25:52.037" Title="looking for an old game it had a battery operated ball" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32445" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32447" CreationDate="2016-09-17T21:42:30.283" Score="5" ViewCount="525" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sheriff always starts with one extra health point. Can this extra point be replenished through Beer or through other means?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18376" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T02:16:26.400" Title="Can sheriff replenish his extra life point?" Tags="|bang|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32446" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32416" CreationDate="2016-09-18T02:16:05.813" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Basically, the time to lead trumps is when you have reason to suspect that your opponents bid their contract on trumps and &quot;distribution,&quot; rather than high card points. This is particularly true when your opponents have &quot;sacrificed&quot; to keep your side out of a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is when you have 15 points, and your opponents bid three suits, only one of which fit. You can suspect that declarer and dummy are short in each other's side suit, and declarer plans a cross ruff. You lead trumps 1) to make sure that your opponents have to play two trumps on every trick and 2) to protect your high cards, especially tenace holdings like KJxx that you don't want to lead from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another example is when an opponent bids a suit, one partner's (takeout) double shows strength in the remaining three suits, and the other passes for penalty with something like AKxxx or QJTxx of declarer's suit. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In essence, you want to &quot;draw&quot; trumps so that your side's high cards will prevail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T02:16:05.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32447" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32445" CreationDate="2016-09-18T02:16:26.400" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Beer can replenish the extra bullet that the Sheriff gets. From the Bang! rulebook:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The Sheriff plays the game with one additional bullet: if his character card shows three bullets, he is considered for all effects to have four; if he has four bullets, then the Sheriff plays with five.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;All effects&quot; includes Beer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T02:16:26.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32448" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1193" CreationDate="2016-09-18T03:32:22.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;We ran into this problem tonight with 5 players and began developing a variant that seemed to have some promise:&#xA;A player is given the option of offering an exchange of one of his cards for a desired card.&#xA;For example, if a player is stuck and really needs a spare tire card, he may announce that he is willing to offer to trade his    &quot;extra tank&quot; card (or whatever card he thinks might entice a trade) for a&quot;spare tire&quot; card. Any other player wishing to complete the proffered trade indicates as such and trade is made. The trade completes the players turn. If no one is willing or able to make the trade, the player's turn is forfeit.&#xA;We only played a couple of hands this way as it was getting late, but, as I said, I think it solves the basic problem of everyone being stuck, and makes for interesting game play.&#xA;I'd love to hear if it works for others and is further developed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18379" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T03:32:22.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32450" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="11238" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:05:05.717" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The other answers are partly correct. The active player gets priority after a spell is cast or an ability activated, and playing a land is a special action that does not use the stack. If a spell is cast that would destroy a permanent that allows you to play a land in a different way, you would not be able to play a land before it resolves. Rule 505.5b explains that you cannot:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;505.5b During either main phase, the active player may play one land card from his or her hand &lt;strong&gt;if the stack is empty&lt;/strong&gt;, if the player has priority, and if he or she hasn’t played a land this turn (unless an effect states the player may play additional lands). This action doesn’t use the stack. Neither the land nor the action of playing the land is a spell or ability, so it can’t be countered, and players can’t respond to it with instants or activated abilities. (See rule 305, “Lands.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Section 305, mentioned there, says the same thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;305.1. A player who has priority may play a land card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn &lt;strong&gt;when the stack is empty&lt;/strong&gt;. Playing a land is a special action; it doesn’t use the stack (see rule 115). Rather, the player simply puts the land onto the battlefield. Since the land doesn’t go on the stack, it is never a spell, and players can’t respond to it with instants or activated abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule mentions section 115, which also says the same thing:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;115.2a Playing a land is a special action. To play a land, a player puts that land onto the battlefield from the zone it was in (usually that player’s hand). By default, a player can take this action only once during each of his or her turns. A player can take this action any time he or she has priority &lt;strong&gt;and the stack is empty&lt;/strong&gt; during a main phase of his or her turn. See rule 305, “Lands.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(all emphasis added)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="18318" LastEditDate="2016-09-18T18:11:34.393" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T18:11:34.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32451" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:09:35.310" Score="0" ViewCount="280" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;code&gt;Hidden Schemes&lt;/code&gt; Event card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there is a hideout on the third space of the trail, place an encounter card on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't seem to be clear about how to resolve this event when the third location on the trail is a sea zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the third location on the trail is a sea zone when &lt;code&gt;Hidden Schemes&lt;/code&gt; is played, should an encounter card be placed?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T18:31:08.873" Title="Hidden Schemes if third location is a sea zone?" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32452" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32451" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:09:35.310" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dracula is not allowed to place an encounter card on a sea zone under any circumstances. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Rules Reference entry on &quot;Hideouts&quot; should have specified only non-sea locations are hideouts, which would have removed any ambiguity. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T18:09:35.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32453" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32477" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:16:20.187" Score="2" ViewCount="990" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the 3rd edition, the rulebook says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Dawn occurs before the day, and dusk occurs before the night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that dawn = night, and dusk = day when resolving combat?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T17:21:27.173" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T17:21:27.173" Title="What do dusk and dawn count as in Fury of Dracula 3rd ed?" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32454" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T18:19:07.910" Score="0" ViewCount="871" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if there exists a game that does not use luck or skill in any of it's game mechanics, such as rolling dice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18384" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T19:09:02.903" Title="Is there a game that doesn't rely on luck or skill?" Tags="|board-game-geek|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-09-18T20:13:52.407" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32455" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32454" CreationDate="2016-09-18T19:09:02.903" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;How do you figure out who wins if there's no randomness (no luck) and no player decisions that can affect the game (no skill)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If there's no skill, then that means players can't make meaningful decisions, i.e. ones where a better decision increases chances of winning. If there's no luck, they can't make meaningless ones either, like picking heads or tails on a coin flip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves games where the winner is pre-determined. For example, in Candyland, shuffling the cards determines the entire game. But then there's &lt;em&gt;still&lt;/em&gt; luck, it's just that the entire game is one big coin flip.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So unless you believe in some concept of &quot;fate&quot;, so that you can base the winner on who was &quot;fated&quot; to win, and declare that to not actually be luck, there can't be such a game. The player with the alphabetically first name wins? Use the players' names as seeds for a (deterministic) pseudo-random number generator, and use that to shuffle the deck in Candyland? Those still sound like luck to me; even though there's no luck in the actual &quot;playing&quot; of the game, one player was lucky enough to have been given the name that caused them to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Bottom line, anything where someone wins, there has to be a way they were determined to be the winner, and the common notions of &quot;luck&quot; and &quot;skill&quot; are such that one or both will always be involved.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T19:09:02.903" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32456" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-18T21:30:24.813" Score="1" ViewCount="83" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts Starfield of Nyx with Herald of the Pantheon in play. Herald reduces the cost of Starfield by 1 to 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I cast Spell Queller.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I quell the Starfield as it's CMC has been reduced to 4 or is it still 5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastActivityDate="2016-09-18T21:30:24.813" Title="Can I spell queller a reduced-cost spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-09-18T21:46:06.050" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32457" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32459" CreationDate="2016-09-18T22:36:41.633" Score="2" ViewCount="1263" Body="&lt;p&gt;So... Kaladesh Prerelease. I'm wanting to purchase two prerelease packs. My question ISN'T: &quot;Can I fuse boxes and have more rares than anyone else and dominate?&quot; My question is, can I open both boxes at the event and choose which card pool I would like to use? Or can you only use one predetermined box and open the other later? Are there even rules regarding this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18260" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T00:45:04.213" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T01:22:08.100" Title="Can I bring multiple prerelease packs into a prerelease tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32458" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32457" CreationDate="2016-09-19T00:33:06.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Buying a box of cards is not the same thing as buying entry into an event. If the store lets you buy spare boxes, that's cool, but when you play in the event it's still just the normal event.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From Wizards' page on prereleases:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Prereleases are Sealed Deck format events, where you build a minimum 40-card minimum deck using the contents of a themed Prerelease Pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; pack, not as many as you happen to own. To be very specific, you open &lt;em&gt;a&lt;/em&gt; pack, and build from it. You do not open two and pick among them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T00:38:34.620" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T00:38:34.620" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32459" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32457" CreationDate="2016-09-19T00:37:52.760" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot bring extra prerelease packs into the tournament like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Limited tournaments (such as drafts) work like this: The tournament officials (such as the game store owners running the pre-release) issue you boosters/cards, and they must issue everyone the exact same amount of cards. They will issue you &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; pre-release box, because if they issue you two, they have to issue everyone &lt;em&gt;else&lt;/em&gt; two as well. That is the one and only box you get to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you happen to possess other boosters or pre-release boxes, they don't count (even if you bought them from the tournament organisers, since they weren't issued to you for use in the tournament). They're outside the tournament scope, and you can't bring them into the tournament and use the cards inside them for that tournament, even to pick between them and another box. You use exclusively the box and boosters given &lt;em&gt;for&lt;/em&gt; the tournament entry, or you're breaking tournament rules. (Suffice to say, breaking those rules will get you a stern talking to from your hosts, and/or disqualificiation from the tournament.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Tournament Rules as of May 2014&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;7.3 Card Use in Limited Tournaments&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Cards must be received directly from tournament officials.&lt;/strong&gt; This product must be new and previously unopened. Pro Tour, Grand Prix, World Magic Cup, and World Championship events may have had boosters opened in order to stamp them. &lt;strong&gt;Each player (or team) must be given exactly the same quantity and type of product as all other players participating in the tournament.&lt;/strong&gt; For example, if one player receives three Return to Ravnica boosters for a booster draft, all other players must also receive three Return to Ravnica boosters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Emphasis added. If you bought extras, they're just extras you'll use in your own time. Don't bring them into the tournament.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T01:22:08.100" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32460" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32464" CreationDate="2016-09-19T01:56:54.110" Score="3" ViewCount="14662" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlacial%20Chasm%5d&quot;&gt;Glacial Chasm&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cumulative upkeep—Pay 2 life. &lt;em&gt;(At the beginning of your upkeep, put an age counter on this permanent, then sacrifice it unless you pay its upkeep cost for each age counter on it.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Glacial Chasm enters the battlefield, sacrifice a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures you control can't attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Prevent all damage that would be dealt to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wondering what the strategy to use this card is? In a 2-player game, the game is essentially over regardless who controls the card. Please give me your insight, thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-11-23T21:55:32.517" Title="How can Glacial Chasm be useful?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="6" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32461" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T03:35:24.060" Score="0" ViewCount="495" Body="&lt;p&gt;Please clarify this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent has a 3/3 creature and in his turn plays an enchantment that adds +1/+1 to his creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I react to this with an instant, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSmite%20The%20Monstrous%5d&quot;&gt;Smite The Monstrous&lt;/a&gt;, which states: &quot;Destroy target creature with a power of 4 or greater.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;He argues that his creature's core power is really 3, the +1 enchantment is not a &lt;em&gt;permanent&lt;/em&gt; change - if the enchantment is exiled/countered, the creature would revert to the 3/3. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I disagree (of course), since at the time the instant was played, the creature in fact had 4 power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please break our disagreement and cite rules if you can. Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T10:49:39.123" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:42:43.370" Title="Can I use Smite the Monstrous on creatures given increased power/toughness?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-09-26T00:20:41.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32463" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32460" CreationDate="2016-09-19T05:14:52.580" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Glacial Chasm all but nullifies combat and direct damage as long as it's in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, there are more ways to win - for example, you can mill your opponent's deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The other consideration is that it only has its effect while it's in play. So if your opponent has one out, you can look for a way to remove it - red has a couple of land destruction spells, blue has a few &quot;return land to hand&quot; ones.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategically, presumably you play this because you can suffer a few turns worth of life loss in return for having a break from taking and dealing combat damage, which would suggest that you use it while you're setting up something big. Maybe you have a lot of direct damage cards. Maybe you need a few turns to get your combo together in hand. Maybe you &lt;em&gt;want&lt;/em&gt; to spend a lot of life on the cumulative upkeep, because you have a card that lets you swap life totals when you're down to nearly nothing and something that will deal just enough damage to finish your opponent off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T22:07:23.170" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T22:07:23.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32464" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32460" CreationDate="2016-09-19T05:45:32.900" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little hard to tell from your question, but it sounds like it might be worth making sure you understand what the card does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, &quot;Cumulative upkeep - Pay 2 life&quot;. The definition from the comprehensive rules is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.23a ... “At the beginning of your upkeep, if this permanent is on the battlefield, put an age counter on this permanent. Then you may pay [cost] for each age counter on it. If you don’t, sacrifice it.” ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the first upkeep after you play this, you'll pay 2 life, the next you'll pay 4 life, then 6 life, and so on, until you decide not to pay and sacrifice it instead. So assuming you start at 20 life, and aren't gaining any, the longest you can keep it is three turns, at which point you'll have paid 2+4+6=12 life, and paying 8 more would kill you. You could also sacrifice it after less than that if you don't want to pay that much life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the meantime, it's preventing all damage that'd be dealt to you. So if your opponent is trying to kill you with damage, which is reasonably common, you're pretty much invincible for three turns. If it prevents more damage than the life you've paid to hold onto it, you've come out ahead on life (though you'll be down two lands).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, is that useful? Could be, in the right sort of deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your deck is one that struggles to survive until it sets up for victory, that could be quite helpful. Maybe a couple turns of preventing damage is all you need, and then you can kill your opponent before you even have to worry about not being able to pay the upkeep. Maybe all you really need is to prevent damage for &lt;em&gt;one&lt;/em&gt; turn, and then you'll be able to stop what your opponent is doing some other way, and can sacrifice it before you even need to pay life. If you're in situations like this, you don't care at all about whether your creatures can attack, and you may not even &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; any creatures.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, if you &lt;em&gt;don't&lt;/em&gt; manage to get ready to win the game in time, you'll eventually have to sacrifice it and your opponent will be able to hit you again - and you'll have been paying life, so you'll be in worse shape to survive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In all, this is a pretty niche effect. On top of that, it's an old card that can only be played in formats with all kinds of other powerful old cards, so it faces pretty stiff competition for inclusion in serious decks. There are plenty of other ways to stave off defeat for a couple turns (including dealing more directly with threats), and often it's better to try to win faster than to try to just delay your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, nonetheless, it still sometimes sees play in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mtggoldfish.com/deck/476791#online&quot;&gt;legacy lands decks like this one&lt;/a&gt;. That's a deck built around using lands to provide effects, so it's actually a bit of an upside that Glacial Chasm is a land: it can be searched up with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCrop%20Rotation%5d&quot;&gt;Crop Rotation&lt;/a&gt; or brought back from your graveyard with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLife%20from%20the%20Loam%5d&quot;&gt;Life from the Loam&lt;/a&gt;. It'll still only be useful in certain situations, so it's just a one-of in a sixty card deck, and many lands decks don't include it at all. But some do, so there you go: sometimes useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T05:45:32.900" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32465" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32461" CreationDate="2016-09-19T08:49:17.733" Score="1" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if the enchantment is exiled/countered, the creature would revert to the 3/3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This sentence is ambiguous. If the Enchantment spell was countered, the creature was never 4/4 in the first place. If the Enchantment was destroyed while enchanting the creature, then the creature would revert to 3/3. Let's go through both situations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;When your opponent plays the enchantment card it goes to the stack.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;At this time it's a &lt;strong&gt;spell&lt;/strong&gt;, not an enchantment.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You then have a chance to respond to it.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In this case, you need a counterspell to counter the enchantment spell. (Something that says &quot;target spell&quot;)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(You can't cast Smite the Monstrous because the creature is still 3/3 at this time.)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If you do, the spell is then countered.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The creature was never 4/4 because the enchantment spell was countered. It never became an Enchantment and never did its thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, you can let the spell resolve. It then becomes an Enchantment and will make the creature 4/4.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At a later time, when you have priority to play spells, you can cast Smite the Monstrous. Since the creature is 4/4, it is destroyed.  &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if a bonus to power/toughness is temporary; it's 4/4 at this time. The whole point of playing the Enchantment was to give the creature +1/+1. You can't just pick and choose when it benefits you. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;(If I had a dime for every time a player tried to do that...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7503" LastEditorUserId="7503" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T08:54:55.587" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T08:54:55.587" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32466" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32461" CreationDate="2016-09-19T09:46:54.300" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When you play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSmite%20the%20Monstrous%5d&quot;&gt;Smite the Monstrous&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent's creature is a valid target because his power is 4 or greater. Whether that power comes from the creature itself, an instant (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;), enchantment (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnholy%20Strength%5d&quot;&gt;Unholy Strength&lt;/a&gt;) or an activated ability (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTimberwatch%20Elf%5d&quot;&gt;Timberwatch Elf&lt;/a&gt;) is besides the point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What DOES matter is whether the effect is already applied to the creature in question. If your opponent has a 3/3 and casts Giant Growth, you have to wait until this spell resolves and is off the stack before that creature becomes a valid target for Smite the Monstrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T12:42:43.370" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T12:42:43.370" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32467" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T13:14:46.707" Score="1" ViewCount="1663" Body="&lt;p&gt;I bought &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/duel-decks-blessed-vs-cursed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blessed vs Cursed&lt;/a&gt; as my first contact with magic. I've played with friends to the point I regret not buying card sleeves (I played ~40 games of ~60 games played in total). I also went to my local store and they let me play with other decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm going to the prerelease of karesh so I'm starting there building a deck and playing with the locals. But there are lots of fiends I love to play with, they already love the game (after playing with Blessed vs Cursed) but have no money to spend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to still play with the Blessed vs Cursed decks with friends, but having 'more fun cards'. What I mean is a more complex set of cards. Playing with decks in the shop, all have a strategy in mind and it was a bit more complex and interesting. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My experience with the duel deck, usually when one of the two is winning there is little the other can do. The matches usually are a bit short. I got the feeling they are balanced because I won with either one with no problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think some problems could be consistency in the hands, yesterday playing with a friend I won 3 out of 4. Because he was really unlucky and there was little he can do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My plan for both decks:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Blessed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to take advantage of this combination:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Champion of the Parish and Gather the Townsfolk with blinking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something in this line when blessed improves on some warriors and creates some extra weak forces but great in number. I don't know if increasing the number of copies will create this effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cursed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We don't seem to find any place for Cobbled Wings or Driver of the Dead, and we like the horde of zombies cursed could bring to the table, but we like more zombies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding more Gravecrawler and Moan of the Unhallowed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to go to the shop with an idea this week and expand this month card budget in this idea. But I don't know if it's any good or it's just plain stupid. Also having so many cards available to buy, I just want some guidance and advice. &lt;strong&gt;Is my idea any good or reasonable?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify my question. &lt;strong&gt;Based on my idea to improve &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/content/duel-decks-blessed-vs-cursed&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Blessed vs Cursed&lt;/a&gt; is there any there is any card (or list of cards) I should take into account?&lt;/strong&gt; I'm looking to show more of what magic has to offer just with this two decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other things I'll experience are Planeswalkers, there is fun to play with. But the decks have none.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some cards I've seen:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Battlewise Hoplite  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Diregraf Colossus  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Endless Ranks of the Dead&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18392" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T14:44:44.897" Title="How to improve Blessed vs Cursed duel deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-09-19T15:07:57.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32468" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-19T13:50:55.283" Score="1" ViewCount="515" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a &quot;fight,&quot; can &quot;pump&quot; spells be used?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an example, I have my 2/2 fight my opponent's 4/4, then I add a +3/3 pump to my 2/2. Would his 4/4 die to my now 5/5?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18347" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T15:29:11.730" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T15:29:11.730" Title="Can I use pump spells with Fighting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32469" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32480" CreationDate="2016-09-19T13:59:17.990" Score="7" ViewCount="227" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I've read the online &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.zmangames.com/uploads/4/7/1/7/47170931/carcassonne_new_edition.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;PDF rules&lt;/a&gt; and can't seem to find an answer for this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After scoring points in a round with the wagon, if you move the wagon to another unfinished city or road as per the wagon rules, does this count towards deploying a new follower and stop you from taking control of the fairy from the &quot;Princess And The Dragon&quot; expansion?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastEditorUserId="13207" LastEditDate="2016-09-20T17:41:56.863" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T17:41:56.863" Title="Does moving the wagon after scoring stop you from taking the fairy?" Tags="|carcassonne|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32470" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32468" CreationDate="2016-09-19T14:03:01.220" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When two creatures fight they deal damage to each other based on their power. A &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrizzly%20Bear%5d&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bear&lt;/a&gt; that has had &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; cast on it will be a 5/5 creature until the end of the current turn. Therefore it will deal 5 damage when it fights. The 4/4 creature will then have 5 damage marked on it after fighting which is more than its 4 toughness so it will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.10a&lt;/strong&gt; A spell or ability may instruct a creature to fight another creature or it may instruct two creatures to fight each other. Each of those creatures deals damage equal to its power to the other creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T14:03:01.220" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32471" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32467" CreationDate="2016-09-19T14:44:44.897" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You're on the right track. Finding combos and abusing them is the way to go. However, mtg is a very p2p game. Look into a format called pauper that uses only commons for a cheap way to get in. Also, vampires and madness can be made for standard cheaply with onli shadows over innistrad and Erdrich moon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18395" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T14:44:44.897" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32472" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32468" CreationDate="2016-09-19T15:02:37.143" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;This depends on the order in which spells are played. I'm assuming you know about the stack: When spells are played or effects are triggered, they are placed on the top of the stack. When no player wants to add spells or effects to the stack, the stack gets resolved top-to-bottom; in effect in reverse order of placing things on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Having said that, I also assume that with &quot;fight&quot; you are not referring to regular combat but to spells that pit two creatures against each other. Then it matters in what order spells are played:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You play Giant Growth on your creature, the stack resolves and you now own a 5/5. You or your opponent set up a 'fight' between your 5/5 and his 4/4. Your creature survives, his dies.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent casts a fight-spell on his 4/4 and your 2/2. While that's still on the stack, you react with an instant to make your 2/2 a 5/5. Same result.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast a Giant Growth on your 2/2 and your opponent reacts with a fight-spell pitting your Grizzly Bears against his 4/4. In this instance, the Giant Growth hasn't resolved yet, and the 4/4 will win the duel, killing your 2/2. Giant Growth will fizzle when it resolves because its target is no longer legal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On a side note, in the last scenario you could react to the fight-spell with another Giant Growth if you have a second spell in your hand and the mana available.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T15:02:37.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32473" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32453" CreationDate="2016-09-19T20:06:55.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe this wouldn't make sense thematically.  With the idea of Dusk and Dawn, they both occur at the end of the light/dark cycle i.e Dawn is the end of night and the Dusk is the end of the day.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It therefore make much more thematic sense that &lt;code&gt;Dawn = day&lt;/code&gt; and &lt;code&gt;Dusk = night&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if the wording of the rules don't quite read correctly, I would stick with common usage of the English terms for the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12317" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T20:06:55.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32474" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32476" CreationDate="2016-09-19T20:58:33.053" Score="5" ViewCount="1339" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJustice%5d&quot;&gt;Justice&lt;/a&gt; (&quot;Whenever a red creature or spell &lt;strong&gt;deals damage&lt;/strong&gt;, Justice deals that much damage to that creature's or spell's controller.&quot;) and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThermal%20Glider%5d&quot;&gt;Thermal Glider&lt;/a&gt; (which has &quot;protection from red&quot;) in play, and my opponent attacks with some red creature (say, a Goblin Chariot; 2/2).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I can choose to block with my Thermal Glider, and its protection from red will prevent the damage and it will survive the encounter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But will Justice's ability trigger? Did the red creature &quot;deal damage&quot; even though all the damage was reduced to zero?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18398" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-09-19T21:01:35.057" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T21:02:23.463" Title="If a &quot;Protection from&quot; effect negates damage, is it still considered &quot;damage dealt&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32475" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32474" CreationDate="2016-09-19T21:01:05.300" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No damage is dealt if it all gets prevented, so anything that triggers on damage being dealt will not occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;119.8.&lt;/strong&gt; If a source would deal 0 damage, it does not deal damage at all. &lt;strong&gt;That means abilities that trigger on damage being dealt won’t trigger.&lt;/strong&gt; It also means that replacement effects that would increase the damage dealt by that source, or would have that source deal that damage to a different object or player, have no event to replace, so they have no effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T21:01:05.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32476" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32474" CreationDate="2016-09-19T21:02:23.463" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, damage which is prevented is not dealt at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.1a Effects that use the word “prevent” are prevention effects. Prevention effects use “prevent” to indicate what damage will not be dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;615.6. If damage that would be dealt is prevented, it never happens. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T21:02:23.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32477" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32453" CreationDate="2016-09-19T21:57:11.967" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, what edition are you talking about? If I'm assuming third correctly, then:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If combat is at dusk or night, Dracula resolves the “at night” effects of his combat cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;thus dusk = night; dawn = day for combat effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-09-19T21:57:11.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32478" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32479" CreationDate="2016-09-20T01:24:15.667" Score="1" ViewCount="398" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can player A play the Special Orders card during player B's turn, allowing B to then move the character of A or some third party C, or can it only be used on player A's turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18402" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T03:10:20.573" Title="Pandemic Special Orders" Tags="|pandemic|pandemic-on-the-brink|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32479" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32478" CreationDate="2016-09-20T03:10:20.573" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;See also &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4224/how-does-the-special-orders-special-event-card-work&quot;&gt;this other question&lt;/a&gt;, although it is a distinct question so no need to merge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Special orders card says &quot;Play at any time.&quot; which seems pretty clear to me. Whoever has the event card can play it on any player's turn. Then, the player whose turn it is can use their actions as normal, or to move the piece of one other player. So if A plays it on B's turn, then B may choose A or C, and move that player's piece as if it were B's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T03:10:20.573" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32480" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32469" CreationDate="2016-09-20T13:09:19.443" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. Redeployment of the Wagon following scoring (at the end of a turn) &lt;a href=&quot;http://carcassonne.sciencegames.com&quot;&gt;is a separate step&lt;/a&gt; from the figure deployment step (for the next turn), so it has no effect on any of the actions you can take during the figure deployment step, including moving the Fairy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1050" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T13:09:19.443" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32481" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32488" CreationDate="2016-09-20T16:57:06.920" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;The blue Taoist has the ability to request help from a villager and fight a ghost in the same turn.  If this ability is blocked by a ghost, but then that ghost is killed by him, can he follow up in the same turn and request help immediately since his power is now unblocked?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T14:56:32.527" Title="If the blue Taoist kills a ghost that blocks his ability to seek help and fight in the same turn, can he then seek help from a villager?" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32482" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-20T19:07:18.000" Score="6" ViewCount="1851" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29724/what-is-the-proper-way-to-split-uneven-draft-pods&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; and from experience at a local shop, when there are 14 people who want to draft at Friday Night Magic then they are split into 2 pods, 1 pod of 8 and one pod of 6. Anecdotally, I have noticed that the larger pod tends to have the better decks. One reason I can think that might account for this is that the card pool is bigger, so more specialized cards that only go in very specific decks (for example: &lt;a href=&quot;http://i.tcgplayer.com/115836_200w.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Rise from the Tides&lt;/a&gt; in a spell heavy deck) are more likely to make their way to the person who needs them. Are there any advantages to being in a small pod? Is there a clear total strategic advantage to being in the 8 person pod over the 6 person pod?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: I understand that within a pod there is no advantage, I'm curious about what potential advantage there would be in games between people who drafted from different pods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7841" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2018-08-08T18:54:14.150" Title="Is there a significant advantage to being at an 8 person pod over a 6 person pod?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32483" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32482" CreationDate="2016-09-20T23:45:17.583" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The number of players in a draft certainly affects the draft, but the effect is symmetrical; all players are affected similarly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One reason that 8 players is optimal is because the pairings work out perfectly; no one is going to get paired up/down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From your opening pack you get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 1st, 7th and 13th pick in a 6 person draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 1st, and 9th pick in an 8 person draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the 1st, and 11th pick in a 10 person draft&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a smaller draft the signals are clearer, you see the same pack more times. Correctly reading the signals is rewarded with more information about what cards might wheel (come back around to you).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a larger draft the signals are weaker, you see more packs, but less picks per pack, nothing worthwhile wheels in a 10-person pod. In an 8-person pod, wheeling cards is rarer than in a 6-pod, but still happens occasionally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Is there a clear total strategic advantage to being in the 8 person pod over the 6 person pod?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, if anything the advantage goes the other way; a 6-person pod will favor the players who read signals the best. The large the pod the more it favors card-evaluation skills. Different skills are rewarded differently depending on the pod size.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12678" LastActivityDate="2016-09-20T23:45:17.583" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32485" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-21T08:20:27.287" Score="31" ViewCount="25355" Body="&lt;p&gt;Take this scenario: Someone rolled the dice and landed on Community Chest, passing &quot;Go&quot; in the process. They picked up the card and it read 'Go to jail. Don't collect $200'. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They argued that they should still receive $200 because they already passed &quot;Go&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18409" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-21T09:43:41.583" LastActivityDate="2017-04-28T21:38:19.687" Title="Should I get $200 for passing &quot;Go&quot; if I then get a card that says &quot;don't collect $200&quot;?" Tags="|monopoly|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32486" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32485" CreationDate="2016-09-21T08:31:17.840" Score="77" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, they would still gain $200 from passing GO &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; landing on a square that makes them draw a card like this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You collect $200 immediately when you land on or pass GO, then the player would continue their move and land on Chance/Community Chest, then draw that card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The text on the card specifies that you cannot collect $200 if you pass GO (again) in the process of moving around the board from a Chance/Community Chest square to the Jail square.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T08:31:17.840" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32487" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32482" CreationDate="2016-09-21T14:25:16.667" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;I largely agree with esoterik's answer, however would like to elaborate on the strict number advantage, which I feel is the more accurate analysis and describes the inherent differences between player numbers in the format better without making assumptions about their skill level (which is how I read the question).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Basic Analysis of the Draft Format&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The entire draft format is based around the principle that each player picking one card at the time yields  better results than simply building a deck out of a set number of packs. This is demonstrated in the Sealed format providing six packs (so, twice as many as in a draft), yet requiring the same deck size in the end.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This is because you get to scroll through each pack, taking the card that works out best for you, while passing the rest, whereas in a Sealed event, you have to scrap a large portion of your pool because it's not in your color(s), the cards are simply unplayable, or you have way more than you'd like to play (also caused by the twice-as-large pool size).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that regardless how many cards are left for you to pick from, you always get to pick the single best cards, after each pack ending up with the 15 best cards from every hand instead of just 15 random cards from any booster pack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Having more packs at the table results in more valueable individual picks&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a draft format, because you're looking at packs you've seen before, the total number of different cards you see changes with the amount of players. Since more cards mean more choices, in theory each player will get a better hand, as they get to choose their best 15 cards out of a bigger total number of cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming a 15-card pack, these are the total amount of cards every player gets to see over the course of the draft:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;8 Players: 276 cards (15+14+13+12+11+10+9+8)*3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;7 Players: 252 cards (15+14+13+12+11+10+9)*3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;6 Players: 225 cards (15+14+13+12+11+10)*3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;5 Players: 195 cards (15+14+13+12+11)*3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;4 Players: 162 cards (15+14+13+12)*3&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;More players in a pod will draft more Rares/Mythics&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There's a certain ratio of Mythics to Rares (to my knowledge, it's about 1 Mythic in 8 packs, which we'll use as an example ratio, regardless whether it's accurate). A pod with 8 players will therefore have an average of 3 Mythics (24 total packs), while a pod of 6 players will only get 2.25 (18 packs). Whether this affects the overall quality of decks depends on the actual cards drawn, but since Mythics are arguably stronger cards than rares most of the time, this is a fair assumption.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Color Distribution&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the number of packs scales with the amount of players (for each player, there's 3 packs), there are always five base colors in Magic, which players will need to negotiate between. In a pod of five, that averages to one color per player, six is close to that ratio, however for 8 players, this means that more colors are being necessarily shared.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;In reality, every player is likely playing multiple colors even in smaller pods because it's unrealistic to be the only person in a specific color. With more players, however, more people will inherently be interested in any color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the only factor that doesn't clearly favor a bigger number of players, however it's also the most insignificant one, as it's an intended concept of &lt;em&gt;Magic The Gathering&lt;/em&gt; to have multiple colors in a single deck, and editions that need it will provide mana fixing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T14:25:16.667" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32488" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32481" CreationDate="2016-09-21T14:56:32.527" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can do this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under Taoist Powers on page 8 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://rprod.com/uploads/GS_RULES_US_ver1_3-web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;It may happen that a Taoist loses his power because of a ghost&#xA;  ability. He can recover it as soon as the responsible ghost is removed&#xA;  from his board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the blue Taoist's Heavenly Gust Ability on the next page reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The blue Taoist can act in a heartbeat.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  He may request villager’s help AND attempt an exorcism in the same turn, in any order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can definitely exorcise a ghost, unlocking your power, and then get a Villager's help in the same turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7480" LastActivityDate="2016-09-21T14:56:32.527" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32490" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32485" CreationDate="2016-09-22T05:23:48.650" Score="21" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Yes, the player collects $200.&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To understand this, let's step through each action the player takes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, the player passes GO during normal movement of his/her token. The GO square reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Collect $200.00 salary as you pass GO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read plainly, this means the player collects the $200 the moment the player's token reaches GO while moving around the board. &lt;strong&gt;See: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9063/if-you-pass-go-do-you-collect-200-at-the-end-of-the-turn-or-as-you-pass-go&quot;&gt;If you pass GO, do you collect 200 at the end of the turn or as you pass GO?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/monins.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; support this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&quot;GO&quot;…&lt;/strong&gt; Each time a player’s token lands on or passes over GO, whether by throwing the dice or drawing a card, the Banker pays him/her a $200 salary.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The card subsequently drawn from Community Chest reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;h3&gt;GO TO JAIL&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Go Directly to Jail&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;DO NOT PASS GO&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  DO NOT COLLECT $200&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/UREnm.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/z5Gym.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Community Chest &amp;quot;Go To Jail&amp;quot; card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;do not pass GO, do not collect $200&quot; is simply to distingish it from cards that state &quot;Advance to &amp;lt;location&amp;gt;&quot;, which usually clarify that &quot;if you pass GO, collect $200&quot;. In the case of the &quot;Go to Jail&quot; card, the player is sent straight to Jail without moving around the board (and potentially passing GO).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;collect $200&quot; effect for passing GO has already resolved, and the text of the card only refers to the direct movement to Jail and not anything that happened before the card was drawn. As such, the player does not forfeit the $200 already collected.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18437" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T05:46:24.417" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32491" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32492" CreationDate="2016-09-22T07:43:54.973" Score="5" ViewCount="474" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have on my board 3 copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBiovisionary%5d&quot;&gt;Biovisionary&lt;/a&gt;, which have&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of the end step, if you control four or more creatures named Biovisionary, you win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSplinter%20Twin%5d&quot;&gt;Splinter Twin&lt;/a&gt; enchanting a Biovisionary. That card states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &quot;Tap: Create a token that's a copy of this creature. That token has haste. Exile it at the beginning of the next end step.&quot; `&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tap the enchanted Biovisionary to clone it and end my turn. Now what?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="18090" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T08:28:17.343" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T22:23:40.260" Title="If something is exiled and checked for simultaneously, does the check yield &quot;true&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32492" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32491" CreationDate="2016-09-22T08:14:25.293" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever you control sources that would put spells or abilities on the stack simultaneously, you control in which order they are placed on the stack. So at the beginning of your end step, you can place these abilities on the stack in such an order that the &quot;You win&quot; effect happens before the &quot;Exile token&quot; effect. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2016/docs/MagicCompRules_CN2_Update_20160826.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;405.3. If an effect puts two or more objects on the stack at the same time, those controlled by the activeplayer are put on lowest, followed by each other player’s objects in APNAP order (see rule 101.4).&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;If a player controls more than one of these objects, that player chooses their relative order on the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis added to highlight the relevant part)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-09-22T18:13:01.973" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T18:13:01.973" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32494" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32495" CreationDate="2016-09-22T09:41:11.423" Score="4" ViewCount="356" Body="&lt;p&gt;The text of the Heimdall 2.0 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03015&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/03015&lt;/a&gt;) says: &quot;The Runner can spend 2 clicks to break up to 2 subroutines on Heimdall 2.0&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a one-time use perk or something the runner can use several times, for example, spending 2 clicks twice (as two different actions)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18439" LastEditorUserId="318" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T18:51:47.490" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T04:18:57.017" Title="Bioroid 2.0 Ice: can runner spend 2 clicks more than once?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32495" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32494" CreationDate="2016-09-22T12:44:17.820" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The runner can use this option multiple times, provided he/she has enough clicks to spend, same as with 1.0 model bioroids. Main difference from 1.0 is that runner cannot spend just one click to break exactly one sub with 2.0 bioroids.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T12:44:17.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32496" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32494" CreationDate="2016-09-22T13:50:24.523" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can spend &lt;em&gt;exactly&lt;/em&gt; two clicks to break &lt;em&gt;up to&lt;/em&gt; two of Heimdall 2.0's subroutines. If you have fewer than two unspent clicks when you encounter him, you cannot spend clicks to break subroutines and will have to break them some other way, or let the subroutines fire. In theory, you could spend two more clicks to break the one remaining subroutine, if you had gained an extra click and had four left at the start of the run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N.B.: The 1.0 line of bioroid ice lets you spend clicks to break subroutines at a rate of 1:1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastEditorUserId="22772" LastEditDate="2018-01-10T04:18:57.017" LastActivityDate="2018-01-10T04:18:57.017" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32497" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32485" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:34:54.947" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Technically, the player should have collected $200 before even landing on Community Chest&lt;/strong&gt;. The text on the space says that you collect the money &quot;&lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; you pass Go&quot;, so the money goes to players passing Go as soon as they reach the space. If we really want to get pedantic, they shouldn't even continue moving (if the die roll indicates that they should move further) until they have the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In practice, it's unlikely that anyone &lt;em&gt;actually&lt;/em&gt; picks up the money at the moment they land on the space, but the fact that they &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; collect it then still matters&lt;/strong&gt;. They passed Go &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; the card came up, so they still get the money, because &lt;strong&gt;at the time they should have gotten it, there was no reason for them not to get it&lt;/strong&gt;. The &quot;Do not collect $200&quot; on the card only matters if the character would pass Go &lt;em&gt;after&lt;/em&gt; picking up the card, but &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; landing in Jail.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6835" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T18:34:54.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32498" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32500" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:44:19.867" Score="6" ViewCount="488" Body="&lt;p&gt;As has been discussed many times, a +1/+1 counter is a physical object placed on a card, and is &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18214/are-1-1-counters-different-from-1-1-effects&quot;&gt;totally distinct&lt;/a&gt; from a +1/+1 static effect buff from something like Glorious Anthem. Is there any accepted method for marking static effects in order to make the board more &quot;readable&quot;? I typically play casual kitchen table games, but I'm also curious about more serious settings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with a Glorious Anthem on the board, I'll usually put a coin on each creature I control to represent the +1/+1 effect. If I cast a Nightmare (power and toughness equal to the number of swamps you control) with 5 swamps on the board, I'll stack 5 coins on the card and add more as I play more swamps. In games that also have potential for true +1/+1 counters, I'm very careful to keep separate the true counters from the static effect markers by stacking them in different corners of the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a better way I should be doing this? I find the marking of the static effects handy so I don't have to re-count all my swamps or triple check all my P/T values when attacking, blocking or anything else. On a scale of &quot;never do this&quot; to &quot;useful among friends but not acceptable in tournament play&quot; to &quot;that's legit&quot;, where does this practice fall, and what are some other options?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T17:10:22.117" Title="Physical representation of static effects" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32499" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32498" CreationDate="2016-09-22T18:53:09.170" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure what all is fully acceptable, but in other games with Power/Toughness changing effects, I've seen different colored dice used to represent static (and even temporary) effects. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One color dice is used for power increases, another color for toughness (if different from power).  If it affects a single card, put them on the card.  Otherwise if it affects all put in front of your creatures. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T18:53:09.170" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32500" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32498" CreationDate="2016-09-22T19:02:09.937" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you do need something physical, the important thing is that it be totally distinct from counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general suggestion would be a different type of marker, not placed on your creatures. This is especially true for anthems: they're pumping everything, so you only really want one indicator. For Nightmare, you could use a die next to the card, perhaps at the bottom since that's where power/toughness usually are. It'd best if you used something &lt;em&gt;totally&lt;/em&gt; different from what you use for counters, e.g. a larger black die for Nightmare and smaller colored dice for counters. (You do see something like this in competitive games sometimes: a die for prowess triggers, or for Tarmogoyf power, but it's pretty much always off to the side for clarity.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But the problem with all these things is that you can get out of sync. If you play a swamp and forget to update your Nightmare, instead of helping you, that physical reminder is now misleading you. I suspect you'll end up periodically counting anyway just to be sure. In contrast, physical markers are great for counters because you naturally make them correct: something adds a counter, so you do. You don't have to manually tie two things together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And yes, I'd say that using coins on creatures for this is just asking for trouble, and I just wouldn't do it regardless of how casual the game is: it's not about formality, it's about not messing up. You have to take so much care to avoid mistakes, and if you do make them and end up adding counters instead of anthem-markers, there's not really a good way to sort out afterwards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as &lt;em&gt;legality&lt;/em&gt; in tournaments, this can be an issue, but the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.wizards.com/contentresources/wizards/wpn/main/documents/magic_the_gathering_tournament_rules_pdf1.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; are naturally not specific; judges have some discretion. The underlying principle is that players are responsible for &amp;quot;maintaining a clear and legal game state.&amp;quot; There's a bit about applying this to game markers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.8 Game Markers&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Small items (e.g. glass beads) may be used as markers and placed on top of a player’s own library or graveyard as a reminder for in-game effects. These markers may not disguise the number of cards remaining in that zone nor completely obscure any card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players using markers to represent in-game components (e.g. permanents) must have a way of clearly representing any in-game status, such as whether a permanent is tapped. Sleeves or card backs that appear similar to any player’s sleeves or card backs may not be used as markers. &lt;strong&gt;A tournament official may disallow the use of game markers that can cause confusion&lt;/strong&gt; or that are deemed inappropriate or offensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis mine)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, in the end it's up to the judges. If your physical representation of static effects is confusing your opponent, and they call a judge, the judge can ask you to stop using those markers. And if &lt;em&gt;you&lt;/em&gt; make any sort of mistake due to confusion from those markers, you can face consequences just as you could for any mistake; you're always responsible for maintaining game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T20:02:53.530" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32501" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6311" CreationDate="2016-09-22T20:09:43.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;One other factor it was way over printed. This combined with its unplayable cards nearly sank Wizards of the Coast and Magic. Wizards sank a lot of money into a product that didn't move, cost them players, and gave them few to no new tools. There is few cards that left there mark on the game and no mechanics. It couldn't stand on its own. The packs was often sold at a loss. I remember stores selling packs at $0.25 and even $0.15. Commons sold for $0.05 to $0.25 depending on playability. Think about it a good in print common like lightning bolt or Terror was worth more than an entire pack of homelands. Even today you can buy Homeland packs at $2 a shot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18446" LastActivityDate="2016-09-22T20:09:43.323" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32502" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-23T03:12:52.593" Score="5" ViewCount="2375" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing this haunt tonight and it was really confusing so hopefully someone can clear up some questions for me I don't really get how this scenario works. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why after each round are we rolling for damage? I can understand the infected people are rolling, but why everyone? The way I see it, if you aren't infected (yet) than why are you rolling for what appears to be random damage? If you have been infected I can see why you would roll for this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the point of the traitor trying to infect people? This I can't wrap my head around. It doesn't really feel like a traitor at all, just the carrier who is trying to infect everyone but for what purpose? I know that the tokens are chosen randomly. For example, the person infecting is player A and player B takes the infect token. OK...now what? Player B is now a 'traitor' but this doesn't really seem to matter. Is Player B now trying to infect player C and player D? But again...what for? Everyone rolls for damage every turn and its only a matter of time before everyone dies or becomes an alien anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I just really don't get how the traitor(s) work in this game. If player B gives it to player C and then on to player D, now everyone has become a traitor and the game is over? Because now we are all traitors and are on the same team? I just don't get this at all. I understand that if you are infected and you die, you become an alien. But what is the point of the alien? To slow down the last remaining non-infected person?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hopefully someone out there can help me better understand this. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18451" LastActivityDate="2020-08-05T01:37:40.603" Title="Haunt #43 The Star Sickness very confused" Tags="|betrayal-at-house-on-the-hill|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32503" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32502" CreationDate="2016-09-23T05:11:19.533" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Rolling damage each round&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The opening flavour text describes three stages of infection, the first of which states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;it feels like a particularly virulent fever, as your immune system fights against it...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And then in the section under &lt;strong&gt;The Haunt Revealer Must Do This...&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the alien disease battles everyone's immune system.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that every one of the investigators is already at stage one of the infection. You are not becoming infected by receiving the number 1 monster token, you are just progressing to stage two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The traitor and infection&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't think of the infection spread mechanic as a part of the traitors abilities/effects or a traitorous thing to do - this mechanic is not really related to the traitor at all since everyone has to do this - it is just the way the status of being a traitor spreads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you say this mechanic is just reflecting that they are a carrier spreading the development of stage two infection. There is no real malicious intent in this since it is meant to be a 50% random chance of passing on the infection.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However the introduction does also say that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In the second stage, the spores take over the host's mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The traitors are more than welcome to subtly sabotage the game for the survivors, since the development of the Serum is a bad thing for them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may be able to slow down or prevent the other survivors from getting the Serum with subtle actions: redirecting or planting suspicion on other players, taking longer to get somewhere, using/not using an item that would hinder/help the cause, ensuring they do/don't offer strategic tips or reminders that would hinder/help the search for a cure etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The point of the aliens&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The aliens are indicators that a survivor has progressed to the third stage, and is a visible display of their infection. Generally speaking they will likely be tougher than your investigator, especially since they are immune to the ongoing damage from stage one and have fairly good stats - the only real downside is that they can't spread the infection since they are no longer explorers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This stage could potentially be considered the next logical step towards a win when you are a traitor after having swapped your infection tokens a couple of times, since it lets you be more open about your actions against the other players, and lets you more freely either kill survivors or force other traitors to transform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It becomes even more important to be an alien if one or more survivors have been injected with the Serum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After being treated with the Serum survivors are immune to the per round damage and can no longer trade infection tokens. Being at stage three means you can actively pursue and attack cured survivors, leaving other potential traitors to stay hidden and affect things more subtly, and even if all you do is sacrifice yourself in doing so, you can also prevent or at least delay someone with the Serum from injecting other traitors.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T16:16:57.640" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T16:16:57.640" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32504" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32505" CreationDate="2016-09-23T06:19:01.033" Score="7" ViewCount="3064" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a creature enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPariah%5d&quot;&gt;Pariah&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;All damage that would be dealt to you is dealt to enchanted creature&#xA;  instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlood%20of%20the%20Martyr%5d&quot;&gt;Blood of the Martyr&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Until end of turn, if damage would be dealt to any creature, you may&#xA;  have that damage dealt to you instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules appear to say that this does not result in a draw, because according to Blood of the Martyr I &quot;may&quot; redirect the damage to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b If the game somehow enters a “loop” of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, am I forced to give the damage to the creature? Do I have a choice to draw the game by choosing to give the damage to myself forever?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T08:54:45.620" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T08:54:45.620" Title="If damage is redirected infinitely, does the game end in a draw?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32505" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32504" CreationDate="2016-09-23T06:29:40.513" Score="21" Body="&lt;p&gt;These are replacement effects, and you can't apply any single replacement effect to any single event more than once. So, once you apply both effects, you stop, the damage is dealt, and the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the relevant rules about &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Replacement_effect&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Replacement Effects&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen—they aren’t locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like “shields” around whatever they’re affecting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.1a&lt;/strong&gt; Effects that use the word “instead” are replacement effects. Most replacement effects use the word “instead” to indicate what events will be replaced with other events.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.5.&lt;/strong&gt; A replacement effect doesn’t invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, say an effect would deal damage to you. Then you would resolve the effect as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, only Pariah's effect applies. It's not optional, so we apply it, and the damage would now be dealt to the creature instead of to you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now Blood of the Martyr's effect applies. This one is optional, so you can choose to have the damage dealt to you instead of the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now, no matter what choice you made, all applicable replacement effects have now been applied. The effect resolved, and the damage is dealt either to you or to the creature, depending on the choice you made.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T06:29:40.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32506" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32504" CreationDate="2016-09-23T07:58:07.587" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;While your example is not a loop, as @murgatroid99 described, the answer to your question for actual loops is still No. Any time there is a loop that involves optional actions (&lt;code&gt;...you may have that damage...&lt;/code&gt;), the active player must choose a finite number of iterations in which to perform the loop, then perform an action that would not continue it (were your example a viable loop, this would involve choosing . &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;716.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an&#xA;  independent action that results in the same game state being reached multiple times. If that happens,&#xA;  the active player (or, if the active player is not involved in the loop, the first player in turn order&#xA;  who is involved) must then make a different game choice so the loop does not continue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note also 104.4b:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.4b ... Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18453" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T07:58:07.587" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32507" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32498" CreationDate="2016-09-23T08:05:36.003" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is worth remembering that representing effects like Nightmare/Tarmogoyf means you are constantly communicating the value of that static effect to your opponent - if this isn't kept accurate, you are likely to be committing a Communication Policy Violation. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_ipg_22jul16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Infraction Procedure Guide&lt;/a&gt;, page 21, section 3.7:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A player violates the Player Communication policy detailed in section 4.1 of the Magic Tournament Rules. This infraction only applies to violations of that policy and not to general communication confusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule cites the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_22jul16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;, page 20, Section 4.1:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may not represent derived or free information incorrectly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have given out more CPVs for Tarmogoyf dice than all the other ways of earning CPV combined.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18393" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T17:10:22.117" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T17:10:22.117" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32508" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32509" CreationDate="2016-09-23T08:30:01.787" Score="4" ViewCount="1598" Body="&lt;p&gt;It states that it has the colour of your choice (for calculating income). Do you make that choice when the card is played and it becomes permanently yellow for example, or can you change it each round?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15176" LastEditorUserId="15176" LastEditDate="2016-09-23T10:16:23.130" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T10:16:23.130" Title="Does the School of Magic count as all colours, or do you choose one colour when it's played and it is that colour permanently?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32509" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32508" CreationDate="2016-09-23T09:17:17.737" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe you choose each round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In my version of Citadels (Fantasy Flight, 2009) there isn't a card called 'Mage Tower'.  There is however a very similar card called 'School of Magic' which text states.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For purposes of Income, the School is considered to be of the colour&#xA;  of your choice.  If for you are the King this round, for example, the&#xA;  school is considered to be a nobel (yellow) district.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To me that sounds like the card you are describing with extra text clarifying which sound like it may be missing from your edition?  Also if you had to decide when it was build there should be some way of marking that and the game does not come with tokens for doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T09:17:17.737" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32510" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32460" CreationDate="2016-09-23T10:22:08.980" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Memory is a little fuzzy, but this card appeared in one of the Magic: The Gathering magazines, after someone paired it with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3515&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Soul Echo&lt;/a&gt; to get pseudo-invincibility. Either the magazine or possibly another source then clarified or stated a ruling that you cannot &lt;em&gt;pay&lt;/em&gt; life that you do not have, nullifying the combination. But it was interesting nonetheless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Soul Echo reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Soul Echo enters the battlefield with X echo counters on it. &lt;strong&gt;You don't&#xA;  lose the game for having 0 or less life.&lt;/strong&gt; At the beginning of your&#xA;  upkeep, sacrifice Soul Echo if there are no echo counters on it.&#xA;  Otherwise, target opponent may choose that for each 1 damage that&#xA;  would be dealt to you until your next upkeep, you remove an echo&#xA;  counter from Soul Echo instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know if the paying of life rule/clarification existed prior to the combination or not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15176" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T10:22:08.980" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32511" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32516" CreationDate="2016-09-23T17:07:47.730" Score="42" ViewCount="163456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Out of all the &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Forbidden&quot;&gt;Forbidden&lt;/a&gt; (banned) cards in &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh!&lt;/em&gt;, the one that confuses me the most is &lt;a href=&quot;http://yugioh.wikia.com/wiki/Pot_of_Greed&quot;&gt;Pot of Greed&lt;/a&gt;. The card effect is simple:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Draw 2 cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't see why this is so game-breaking that it has to be banned. You just get cards. What's the big deal? Heck, the anime uses it all the time (especially &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh! GX&lt;/em&gt;, where Jaden and/or his opponents use it in nearly every episode), and it doesn't seem to cause problems there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most of the cards on the Forbidden list are clearly there because playing them makes it very difficult, if not impossible, for your opponent to win. The rest of them seem to be there because there is a loophole in the rules that creates an unintentionally powerful effect. But neither of those seem to apply to Pot of Greed. You won't necessarily win by just drawing two cards, and there aren't any loopholes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, the Internet has been less than helpful. I just seem to get forums where people say that it's an incredibly broken card, but don't explain why.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only thing I can think of is that maybe having three of them in an Exodia deck makes it too easy to win before your opponent can do anything. But even then, I don't see why it must be banned instead of limited to 1 or 2 copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So could someone please explain to a casual &lt;em&gt;Yu-Gi-Oh!&lt;/em&gt; player why this card is banned?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="22373" LastEditDate="2018-03-13T04:45:40.307" LastActivityDate="2019-03-08T15:11:50.627" Title="Why is Pot of Greed banned?" Tags="|yu-gi-oh|" AnswerCount="7" CommentCount="16" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32512" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32511" CreationDate="2016-09-23T17:19:24.620" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;To a casual yugioh player, it is not very clear why it is banned, to be honest. To anyone that goes to tournaments it becomes abundantly clear why it is banned. Draw power is huge in major decks. Upstart goblin has recently become limited down to 1 copy. That is simply draw 1, and your opponent gets to gain LP. Upstart is good because you effectively get to play with 1 less card in your deck, because if you draw it, you immediately replace it. This adds a lot of consistency to decks that need it. Pot of Greed is a lot more powerful. It allows you to simply draw &lt;strong&gt;2&lt;/strong&gt; cards. it has no downside, or once per turn clause; it simply lets you draw 2. This means that you replace the card in your hand, and then get an extra one. In the entire game, there is no other card that lets you draw 2 without giving up a card from your hand (&lt;strong&gt;Cards of Consonance&lt;/strong&gt;) or that let you do it so quickly. The closest any card comes is &lt;strong&gt;Accumulated Fortune&lt;/strong&gt; which needs to be set first, then has to be avtivated as a chain of four or higher and is very difficult to pull off. Pot of greed takes the cake when it comes to card advantage.&lt;br&gt; To summarize, Pot of greed lets you draw ridiculously easily, and draw a lot. That is why it is banned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T17:19:24.620" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32513" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32511" CreationDate="2016-09-23T17:32:33.063" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;In most Trading Card Games drawing a card is generally one of the most powerful effects that can be printed. Having access to more cards means you have access to more options, and Yu-Gi-Oh is no exception to this. Another thing that is really important in TCGs is the ability to play cards at no cost. This applies to all Spell Cards in YGO (unless the card has an additional cost on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you take two of the most powerful things you can possibly have in a TCG and combine them into a single card, that card will probably be broken. It greatly increases your card quality and deck consistency. Being able to run 3 of these cards makes it so that you both see more cards and are more likely to see the cards you need at the current moment in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For these reasons it is a card that will go into every single deck which is usually considered a bad thing because it decreases the diversity of cards being played and tends to make those cards very expensive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some similar cards from other TCGs include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDivination%5d&quot;&gt;Divination&lt;/a&gt; from Magic (which costs 3 mana) and &lt;a href=&quot;http://bulbapedia.bulbagarden.net/wiki/Bill_(Base_Set_91)&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Bill&lt;/a&gt; from Pokemon (which has no direct cost, but is of a class of cards called Supporters that allow for only 1 supporter to be played in a turn, giving it a fairly high potential opportunity cost).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more detailed reasoning for why this card is banned I found a &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/yugioh/comments/3kig31/okay_can_someone_help_explain_to_my_stupid/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;discussion on Reddit&lt;/a&gt; that expands on my points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T15:38:17.647" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T15:38:17.647" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32514" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32959" CreationDate="2016-09-23T20:46:48.610" Score="3" ViewCount="311" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically when playing with a Factor and a Brain, I was wondering about the timing of activating these abilities. Suppose the Brain is in the school which already has 1 Intrigue. During mastermind abilities, I now add 1 Intrigue to the school. Can I now also activate the Factor as a Conspiracy Theorist and add a Paranoia to a character in his location?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, can the Protagonists do this with a Rich-man's Daughter + Girl Student? (Add a Goodwill to the Girl Student, then use the Girl Student to remove Paranoia from the Rich-man's Daughter?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1711" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T21:32:59.183" Title="What is the timing of activation conditions for mastermind abilities?" Tags="|tragedy-looper|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32515" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32491" CreationDate="2016-09-23T22:23:40.260" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;These effects are both triggered abilities that you control, so they will happen sequentially in the order of your choice. Players will have an opportunity to respond before and between their resolutions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of the relevant rules for this situation are in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Triggered Abilities&lt;/a&gt; section of the rules. First, rule 603.1 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[Trigger condition], [effect],” and begin with the word “when,” “whenever,” or “at.” They can also be expressed as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and rule 603.4 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A triggered ability may read “When/Whenever/At [trigger event], if [condition], [effect].”&lt;/strong&gt; When the trigger event occurs, the ability checks whether the stated condition is true. The ability triggers only if it is; otherwise it does nothing. If the ability triggers, it checks the stated condition again as it resolves. If the condition isn’t true at that time, the ability is removed from the stack and does nothing. Note that this mirrors the check for legal targets. This rule is referred to as the “intervening ‘if’ clause” rule. (The word “if” has only its normal English meaning anywhere else in the text of a card; this rule only applies to an “if” that immediately follows a trigger condition.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, Biovisionary's ability matches this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;At&lt;/em&gt; the beginning of the end step&lt;/strong&gt;, &lt;em&gt;if you control four or more creatures named Biovisionary&lt;/em&gt;, you win the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In addition, rule 603.7 says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;An effect may create a delayed triggered ability that can do something at a later time. A delayed triggered ability will contain “when,” “whenever,” or “at,” although that word won’t usually begin the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And Splinter Twin's ability matches this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature has &quot;Tap: Create a token that's a copy of this creature. That token has haste. Exile it &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;at&lt;/em&gt; the beginning of the next end step.&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, both abilities have the same trigger event: the beginning of the end step. So, they both trigger at the same time. To determine what to do in that situation, we have to look at rule 603.3b:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she chooses.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 101.4.) [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at the beginning of the end step after you activate Splinter Twin, both abilities trigger, and you choose the order in which they are put on the stack. Then they are resolved sequentially from top to bottom, like any other abilities on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You will win in this situation if you put the Splinter Twin ability on the stack first, then put the Biovisionary ability on the stack. If you do, the situation will play out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You put the Splinter Twin ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You have 4 copies of the Biovisionary copy (each Biovisionary has the ability independently). As you put each on the stack, you check that you have 4 creatures named Biovisionary. You do, so each ability is successfully put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Assuming neither player has any responses, the top ability is a Biovisionary ability. As it starts to resolve, you check again that you have 4 creatures named Biovisionary. You still do, so you win.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T22:23:40.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32516" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32511" CreationDate="2016-09-23T22:30:02.307" Score="51" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest terms I can think to put it is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your deck requires 40 cards. Imagine you could have a 12 card deck - your 4 best cards, 3 copies each. You'd probably win every game against those 40-card deck losers, since you're always drawing your best cards and deploying them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Every card you put in your deck makes you less likely to draw those game winning spells. So you replace them with some themed cards to bide your time until you DO draw into them. So it makes sense that a 15 card deck is weaker than a 12, and a 20 weaker than a 15. The important fact is that &lt;em&gt;a 37 card deck is stronger than a 40&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now imagine Pot of Greed just said &quot;draw 1 card&quot; instead of 2. What it would essentially do is let you get take your 40 card deck down to a 37, because every time you drew Pot of Greed, you would immediately exchange it for the next card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if it were draw 1 card, it would immediately be banned because it turns any deck from 40 into a 37 card deck. &lt;em&gt;And if at draw 1 it's too powerful, then at draw 2 it must be even more powerful.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another very simple way to put it is this: when it comes to making games fun, the key is to make interesting decisions. Pot of Greed has no interesting decision: you play it, you always benefit. It's not like a burn spell where you choose a monster to burn, or a monster that you choose &quot;should I put this out now? Or wait for him to use up his monster kills...&quot; Pot of Greed doesn't make games more fun. It makes them less fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2016-09-23T22:30:02.307" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32517" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-24T01:23:19.017" Score="0" ViewCount="151" Body="&lt;p&gt;The crisis 'Collapsing Parallel World's forces one of the players to exchange their deck and discard pile for a new 10 card deck.  Do they lose the Locations they have in play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="71" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T15:54:34.770" Title="Does &quot;'Collapsing Parallel Worlds&quot; remove Locations that are in play?" Tags="|dc-comics-deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32518" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32517" CreationDate="2016-09-24T04:18:04.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Crisis only affects cards in your deck or discard pile. Cards left in play (such as locations), and cards in your hand, are neither, so they are not affected.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is corroborated by &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/16702474#16702474&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this Board Game Geek thread&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This was asked earlier on here and I believe Matt [Hyra, creator of the game] answered it with yes they keep their hand and locations just the discard and deck piles go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, I have been unable to find the original reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-01-11T15:54:34.770" LastActivityDate="2017-01-11T15:54:34.770" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32521" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31984" CreationDate="2016-09-24T15:04:21.943" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The difference is actually pretty similar to the difference in Magic: The Gathering.  When the word Target is present, the effect must point directly at the unit, and will trigger abilities that look for the unit to be targeted. Blood transfer, however, is worded this way to prevent abuses of similiar effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assume there's a unit that you control that says 'when this card is targeted, do x&quot;.  Blood transfer would let you do X on demand, which could cause things to spiral out of control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18478" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T15:04:21.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32522" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32523" CreationDate="2016-09-24T15:56:16.780" Score="5" ViewCount="2485" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some quests (like &lt;em&gt;Lure Artisans of Mirabar&lt;/em&gt;), and maybe some intrigue cards, allow you to place a building from &lt;em&gt;Builder's Hall&lt;/em&gt; into play at no cost. Does the player also score the accumulated victory points (gems)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17879" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T14:09:19.237" Title="Do free buildings give accumulated victory points?" Tags="|lords-of-waterdeep|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32523" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32522" CreationDate="2016-09-24T16:41:28.723" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't see why you wouldn't get the gems. The quest on your cards says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Put 1 building from Builder's Hall into play and under your control&#xA;at no cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Builder's Hall say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Choose one of the face-up Buildings available for purchase and pay&#xA;its Gold cost. You immediately score any VP for that Building and&#xA;place its tile in one of the open spots on the board. Place one of&#xA;your control markers on that tile to show you are the owner. After you&#xA;purchase a Building, immediately draw the top tile of the Building&#xA;stack and place it face-up on the vacated space.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So after paying the gold cost of Zero you would surely take the gems and then fill the vacated space with a new building.  Usually if in a game you don't get something the mission card should state you don't get the gems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Lords Of WaterDeep FAQ at BGG also answers this question specifically saying you take the gems.  &lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/wiki/page/Lords_of_Waterdeep_FAQ&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG game FAQ&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: Does an effect that places a building, or puts a building into play count as buying/purchasing the building?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A: No. You count as having bought a building only if you assign an agent to &amp;quot;Builder's Hall&amp;quot; and pay the gold cost of the building. Putting a building into play by other means (such as by completing the &amp;quot;Lure Artisans of Mirabar&amp;quot; quest) does not count as buying the building. However, if you put a building into play under your control from &amp;quot;Builder's Hall&amp;quot; and that building has any VP tokens on it, you gain those VP's regardless of whether you bought it or simply put it in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-11-15T14:09:19.237" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32524" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29314" CreationDate="2016-09-24T16:53:25.187" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Referencing Thunderforge's images, I'd like to add to what he said. He was right that you do not have a &quot;Ghost&quot; misprint 1st Edition Shadowless Pikachu. However the Pikachu you have is not damaged. It is a valid misprint. It is know as a 1st Edition &quot;Grey Stamp&quot; Shawdowless Pikachu. It is a niche in the pokemon card collector world, but definitely worth more than the regular 1st Edition Shadowless Pikachu. I have one and I love it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18481" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T16:53:25.187" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32525" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-24T19:28:03.373" Score="1" ViewCount="899" Body="&lt;p&gt;Specifically, does a player draw a card when &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHarvester%20of%20Souls%5d&quot;&gt;Harvester of Souls&lt;/a&gt; dies? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17966" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T21:04:38.187" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T21:04:38.187" Title="Does Harvester of Souls trigger its own death trigger when it dies" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32526" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32525" CreationDate="2016-09-24T19:30:58.687" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, Harvester of Souls does not trigger its own death trigger&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Read the card carefully, it says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever &lt;strong&gt;another&lt;/strong&gt; nontoken creature dies, you may draw a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It specifically doesn't count itself. For other creatures, it depends on the exact wording of that card and cannot be stated generally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T19:30:58.687" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32527" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32528" CreationDate="2016-09-24T20:06:04.883" Score="2" ViewCount="672" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMyr%20Galvanizer%5d&quot;&gt;Myr Galvanizer&lt;/a&gt;s, so they give a +1/+1 to each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I attack with both, and my opponent blocks one with a 5/5 creature and kills it, does the surviving one still deal 3 damage to the defending player? Or the damage to players is assigned after the blockings among creatures are solved?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11520" LastEditorUserId="7007" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T22:13:24.120" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T22:13:24.120" Title="Creatures pumping each other and combat damage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32528" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32527" CreationDate="2016-09-24T20:28:42.380" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Three damage would be dealt to the defending player. All combat damage is assigned and then dealt simultaneously. Rules 510.1 and 510.2 explain this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.1. First, the active player announces how &lt;strong&gt;each attacking creature assigns its combat damage&lt;/strong&gt;, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. A player assigns a creature’s combat damage according to the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Those rules are explained in the next few rules, but they aren't relevant for this question.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, &lt;strong&gt;all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously&lt;/strong&gt;. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&#xA;  Example: Squadron Hawk (a 1/1 creature with flying) and Goblin Piker (a 2/1 creature) are attacking. Mogg Fanatic (a 1/1 creature with the ability “Sacrifice Mogg Fanatic: Mogg Fanatic deals 1 damage to target creature or player”) blocks the Goblin Piker. The defending player sacrifices Mogg Fanatic during the declare blockers step to deal 1 damage to the Squadron Hawk. The Hawk is destroyed. The Piker deals and is dealt no combat damage this turn. If the defending player instead left Mogg Fanatic on the battlefield, the Fanatic and the Piker would have dealt lethal damage to one another, but the Squadron Hawk couldn’t have been dealt damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(emphasis added to both rule quotes)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="18318" LastEditDate="2016-09-24T21:07:13.823" LastActivityDate="2016-09-24T21:07:13.823" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32529" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32531" CreationDate="2016-09-25T02:08:57.290" Score="4" ViewCount="9877" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at the new Kaladesh set, and there's the word &quot;create&quot;, as in:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Create two 1/1 colorless Servo artifact creature tokens. (from &lt;a href=&quot;http://mythicspoiler.com/kld/cards/servoexhibition.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Servo Exhibition&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that mean the same thing as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Put two 1/1 colorless Servo artifact creature tokens onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or is there some subtle difference I'm missing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(The fact that the Oracle Text for &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=416853&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Raise the Alarm&lt;/a&gt; now uses &quot;create&quot; tells me that it probably means the same thing, but I'm not sure.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14954" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-25T08:41:40.317" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T08:41:40.317" Title="Is &quot;create a token&quot; the same as &quot;put a token onto the battlefield&quot; in Kaladesh?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32530" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32529" CreationDate="2016-09-25T02:11:47.463" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;They do mean the exact same thing. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/kaladesh-mechanics-2016-09-02&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Proof&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14954" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T02:11:47.463" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32531" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32529" CreationDate="2016-09-25T02:48:18.543" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's identical; it's just a new way of writing it introduced in Kaladesh. The release notes explain it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;“Create” is a new term for an old concept: the act of putting a token onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To create a token, put it onto the battlefield under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;This new term doesn’t represent any functional change from tokens as you’ve known them. No rules for tokens or putting them onto the battlefield are changing other than the words used to present this game concept. The text of older cards that create tokens will be updated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T02:48:18.543" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32532" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12497" CreationDate="2016-09-25T03:49:24.867" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Reason why, there his no negative attack points, and defense point, First lets take a look at level vs rank, what his Rank. Rank is the negative of levels, and levels are the negative of ranks. The highest Level his the strongest monster, the same idea the higher the rank number the stronger the monster his. The highest negative level his a stronger monster which his the highest rank. What if you would play a card that said normal summoned one Xyz Monster from your Extra Deck, ignoring summoning condition, if you would think because Xyz monster does not have level you don't need to tribute for rank 5 or higher you would be wrong, with that card played you would still need to tribute 1 monster to normal summoned a rank 5 or 6, and 2 tribute to normal summoned a rank 7 or higher, this is possible because of the ignoring summoning condition phrase. This his why in the real game you can't make a level become a rank by making its level lower than 0. And you can't make a rank become a level by making its rank lower than 0. True in the anime they where able to do that changing a level into a rank by making the level lower than 0, and Vice-versa. I did not see that happen yet in Yugioh Arc-V. We are comparing with the real world not the anime world. So in the real world if negative attack and defense point become a think in the future, they would be a type of monster that start with that, and based on the logic I imply above it would applied yugioh logic not actual real life logic. So yugioh logic would be for example you attack with -800 attack to your opponents -300 attack points. The -300 attack point would lose, and your opponent would take 500 point of damage. Does type of monster would have this kind of rulling, they cannot attack, or be attack with monster with 0 attack or more, except if they are treated as having 0 attack and positive attack. So you can sort of guess the remaining rulling of the negative attack and defense type of new monster. They could be a thing in the next series after Yugioh arc-V. But they are not a thing now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18488" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T03:49:24.867" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32533" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32552" CreationDate="2016-09-25T06:16:51.680" Score="2" ViewCount="1358" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have no cards in my draw pile but I have some in my hand, can I choose to not play any cards but also not declare end of round, or must I declare end of round if I do not play cards? If I must declare end of round in that case, does playing a skill allow me to avoid doing so?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:02:26.253" Title="Can a player with cards pass but not declare end of round?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32535" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23869" CreationDate="2016-09-25T17:52:48.757" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;A searchable card list is available for the current version of the game, Magic Duels, at &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.magicduelscardlist.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.magicduelscardlist.com&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18495" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T17:52:48.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32536" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32537" CreationDate="2016-09-25T18:45:51.377" Score="1" ViewCount="2610" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScrapheap%20Scrounger%5d&quot;&gt;Scrapheap Scrounger&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that allows you to return it from the graveyard to the battlefield. However, it doesn't say you can play this ability while the card is in the graveyard. I am trying to figure out the order of effects that would let me use this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I assume that the idea is you can play it in response an effect that would destroy it or otherwise send it to the graveyard. But, wouldn't the Scrounger's ability then resolve first, at which point the card is still a creature on the battlefield and not a card in the graveyard? Then whatever effect is about to kill it would resolve and kill it? Doesn't that even apply to dying from attack damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5132" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-09-25T19:00:14.010" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T20:58:28.427" Title="How do you play Scrapheap Scrounger's ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-09-26T02:34:24.557" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32537" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2016-09-25T19:08:39.500" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Scrapheap Scrounger's activated ability works if and only if it's in the graveyard. That is implicit for all such abilities, when they wouldnt make sense otherwise.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Generally, you are correct in that abilities on permanents only function on the battlefield. There are, however, exceptions to that. The Scrounger's ability falls under one of them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6. Abilities of an instant or sorcery spell usually function only while that object is on the stack. Abilities of all other objects usually function only while that object is on the battlefield. The exceptions are as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;112.6k An ability whose cost or effect specifies that it moves the object it’s on out of a particular zone functions only in that zone, unless that ability’s trigger condition, or a previous part of that ability’s cost or effect, specifies that the object is put into that zone. The same is true if the effect of that ability creates a delayed triggered ability whose effect moves the object out of a particular zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T19:17:23.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32538" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:29:44.583" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Word Thief&lt;/em&gt; is a card game about arranging letters to create words while also stealing words from other players and protecting your own. It was first released in 1994 by FABY.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2412/word-thief&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T01:28:33.087" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T01:28:33.087" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32539" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:29:44.583" Score="0" Body="A card game about arranging letters to create words while also stealing words from other players and protecting your own." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T05:24:35.370" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T05:24:35.370" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32540" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:32:50.233" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Merchants &amp;amp; Marauders&lt;/em&gt; is a pirate-themed board game about accumulating more glory than other pirates. It was first published in 2010 by Z-Man Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/25292/merchants-marauders&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T01:28:30.297" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T01:28:30.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32541" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:32:50.233" Score="0" Body="A pirate-themed board game about accumulating more glory than other pirates." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T05:36:20.327" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T05:36:20.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32542" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:38:43.907" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Legendary Encounters: A Firefly Deck Building Game&lt;/em&gt; is a deckbuilding game, part of the Legendary Encounters line, set in the Firefly universe. It was first released in 2016 by Upper Deck Entertainment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/195571/legendary-encounters-firefly-deck-building-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T01:27:50.603" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T01:27:50.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32543" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:38:43.907" Score="0" Body="A deckbuilding game, part of the Legendary Encounters line, set in the Firefly universe." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T05:24:28.347" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T05:24:28.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32544" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:40:57.393" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Legendary: Big Trouble in Little China&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative deckbuilding game based on the film &lt;em&gt;Big Trouble in Little China&lt;/em&gt;. It was first released in 2016 by Upper Deck Entertainment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/200171/legendary-big-trouble-little-china&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T01:28:38.123" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T01:28:38.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32545" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:40:57.393" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game based on the film *Big Trouble in Little China* using the Legendary deckbuilding system." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T01:28:27.207" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T01:28:27.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32546" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32536" CreationDate="2016-09-25T20:58:28.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just to complement &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/32537/409&quot;&gt;Hackworth's answer&lt;/a&gt; explaining how this actually works (you activate the ability only when Scrapheap Scrounger is in the graveyard), I thought it might be helpful to point out how an ability that works roughly how you describe might be written.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest thing is probably regeneration. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDrudge%20Skeletons%5d&quot;&gt;Drudge Skeletons&lt;/a&gt; says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{B}: Regenerate Drudge Skeletons. &lt;em&gt;(The next time this creature would be destroyed this turn, it isn't. Instead tap it, remove all damage from it, and remove it from combat.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You activate the ability &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; it dies, and it creates a &quot;regeneration shield&quot; so that when it &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; die, it instead gets to stick around as described. Applying the regeneration shield is an example of a replacement effect. In the end this is sort of similar to what you describe, in that it lets you pay mana, perhaps in response to something that would kill the creature, in order to prevent a creature from dying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are also other kinds of replacement effects that can prevent creatures from dying, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNecromancer%27s%5d%2b%5bMagemark%5d&quot;&gt;Necromancer&amp;#39;s Magemark&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;[...] If a creature you control that's enchanted would die, return it to its owner's hand instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The words to note there are &quot;would&quot; and &quot;instead&quot;, which indicate a replacement effect. This time there's no mana payment involved, but it still does prevent a creature from dying. This is a pretty rare effect, though; it's far more common to see dying replaced with something even worse: &quot;If a creature dealt damage this way would die this turn, exile it instead.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-09-25T20:58:28.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32548" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32549" CreationDate="2016-09-26T07:37:46.440" Score="7" ViewCount="2346" Body="&lt;p&gt;This weekend we had a discussion while playing Boss Monster regarding spell cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scenario that we were having is that one of us destroyed his room during the build phase, forcing the other to discard a random spell card. As a reaction, that guy played the spell card (one that could be played in the build phase) to trigger &lt;em&gt;Liger's Den&lt;/em&gt; in order to get a new spell card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since the latter used to play Magic The Gathering, he claimed that it was a valid move, as it is a reaction that comes on the stack. The other disagreed and said that it was invalid and he should just discard his spell card and not take a new one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was playing the spell to trigger &lt;em&gt;Liger's Den&lt;/em&gt; a valid one, or did he just need to discard the card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18500" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T08:51:18.597" Title="Boss monster spell cards" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32549" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32548" CreationDate="2016-09-26T08:51:18.597" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;He probably shouldn't have been able to play the spell.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game doesn't have comprehensive rules on the order of announcing spells. However, there's no &quot;stack&quot;. The stack is a feature of Magic and nobody should assume that Magic's reactionary play and LIFO resolution system applies to other games without them saying so. The majority of games (especially light games like this) work on the assumption that stuff happens as soon as you play it, unless something else explicitly says it can be played in response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The closest &lt;a href=&quot;http://brotherwisegames.com/rules/Boss%20Monster%20Prototype%20Rules.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; get to this is the following (page 5):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you’re the “active player” (when you’re building a Room, or Heroes are moving through your dungeon) your Spell effects are resolved first. Other players’ Spells and effects are resolved in XP order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, everyone piles in with their desire to cast a spell and then you see how they resolve. This makes it clear that the designers understand more than one person can be casting at once, and how to resolve it (i.e. not a stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the situation above, the destruction of the room already occurred, causing the discard. Unless the spell is specifically worded to be played in reaction to that situation, I'd recommend just resolving things as they happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T08:51:18.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32550" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32551" CreationDate="2016-09-26T09:07:10.787" Score="8" ViewCount="1563" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic: the Gathering, a card's converted mana cost is the card's mana cost converted to an integer by replacing all mana symbols with 1's and summing all of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My conjecture here is that it was named &quot;converted&quot; because it's &quot;mana converted to an integer&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Still, I was wondering when has the term been first used and why is it named &quot;converted&quot;. An official explanation would be preferred.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10157" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T11:28:36.970" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T11:28:36.970" Title="What is the origin of the term &quot;converted mana cost&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|terminology|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32551" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32550" CreationDate="2016-09-26T09:37:30.493" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The term started to be used in Classic Sixth Edition.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Fifth Edition, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpell%20Blast%5d&quot;&gt;Spell Blast&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;em&gt;total casting cost&lt;/em&gt;. In Sixth it says &lt;em&gt;converted mana cost&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyromancy%5d&quot;&gt;Pyromancy&lt;/a&gt; also says &lt;em&gt;total casting cost&lt;/em&gt;, and Urza's Legacy was the set immediately before Sixth.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sixth introduced many major rules changes, including the removal of interrupts and the introduction of the stack. You can read more details &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/6th_Edition/Rules_changes&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;, but in general it was a major push by WotC to redesign the rules and wording to lead to a more consistent environment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't know why they chose the exact wording they did, but it makes sense as a term. A spell's mana cost includes colours and generic mana. The word &quot;converted&quot; (as opposed to &quot;total&quot;) makes it clear that you're not paying attention to the composition of colour symbols (and later, other symbols), and instead just want a single number answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be important for comparing two spells in different colours, or reducing a spell's cost by a number but still requiring coloured mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T09:37:30.493" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32552" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32533" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:02:26.253" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can take a regular turn and do nothing.&lt;/strong&gt; However, you &lt;strong&gt;will&lt;/strong&gt; end up discarding at least one card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Everything I reference here is from &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/mage/MK_rulebook_ENG_searchable-mar2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Page 5, &amp;quot;A Player's Turn&amp;quot;:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;2&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your Deed deck is empty at the start of your turn, and if the End of the Round has not been announced yet, you may forfeit your turn and announce the End of the Round. If you do, each other player takes one more turn, and then the Round is over.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;b. You must announce End of the Round if your Deed deck is empty and you have no cards in your hand at the start of your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;c. If you have cards in your hand, but your Deed deck is empty, it is up to you whether to announce End of the Round, or whether to play your turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol start=&quot;4&quot;&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you do not forfeit your turn, you have two options: playing a Regular turn, or Resting.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. &lt;strong&gt;In both cases, you have to play or discard at least one card during or at the end of your turn&lt;/strong&gt; (except if your hand is empty but there are still cards in your Deed deck at the beginning of your turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you rest you'll end up discarding cards anyway. During a &amp;quot;regular turn&amp;quot;, you don't have to move . As long as you're not in an area with a mandatory action you don't have to do anything. However, this is dealt with later on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Page 9, &amp;quot;End of the Turn&amp;quot;:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7. Drawing new cards:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;a. Before drawing, you may discard any number of non-Wound cards from your hand, if you wish.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;• If you did not play or discard any cards during your turn, you must discard at least one card now.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;d. If you run out of cards in your Deed deck while drawing, stop drawing. Do not reshuffle your discard pile unless you have the Night Tactic card “Long Night” (see that card).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to stall out the end of the game, you can do so for as many turns as you have cards in your hand. Playing a skill doesn't change the fact that you haven't played or discarded any cards at the end of the turn so it won't stall the game out unless it can put more cards in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:02:26.253" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32553" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:34:19.310" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T10:34:19.310" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T10:34:19.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32554" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-26T10:34:19.310" Score="0" Body="The World of Warcraft Trading Card Game.  Based upon the main role-playing WoW." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2016-09-26T12:50:14.287" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T12:50:14.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32555" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23576" CreationDate="2016-09-26T17:17:07.380" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/en/document/magic-gathering-tournament-rules&quot;&gt;tournament rules&lt;/a&gt; now clearly cover pile shuffling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pile shuffling alone is not sufficiently random and may not be performed more than once any time a deck is being randomized.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The description from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/news/magic-tournament-rules-release-notes-2016-09-26&quot;&gt;update bulletin&lt;/a&gt; explains a bit more:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Section 3.9 (Shuffling): This change has to do with &quot;pile shuffling.&quot; Pile shuffling alone is not a sufficiently random form of shuffling. Update states that a player may only pile shuffle once each time a deck is randomized. The one pile shuffle is allowed in order to count the number of cards in the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, pile shuffle once, and you're okay, as long as you still actually shuffle your deck - it will not be considered slow play. Pile shuffling more than once would be against the rules, though it's not clear whether it'd be deemed slow play or just improper shuffling.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-09-26T17:17:07.380" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32556" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-27T04:11:51.037" Score="-1" ViewCount="435" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a difference between creatures receiving 2, +1+1 counters and recieving +2+2. My problem is that Jarad, Golgari Lich Lord recieves +1+1. But if I also have Corpsejack Menace, would that double the amount of power and toughness received?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18506" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T05:43:28.943" Title="Difference between +1+1 and +1+1 counters" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-09-27T12:05:14.950" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32557" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32559" CreationDate="2016-09-27T04:39:28.853" Score="6" ViewCount="4456" Body="&lt;p&gt;Consider the following game state.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSky%20Skiff%5d&quot;&gt;Sky Skiff&lt;/a&gt; in play.  It is not currently a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHerald%20of%20the%20Fair%5d&quot;&gt;Herald of the Fair&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It has an ETB trigger that targets a creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I tap the Herald of the Fair to Crew the Sky Skiff to make it a creature so that I can target it with the ETB trigger?  Or do I have to choose the target as soon as the trigger goes on the stack and have no time to respond to the trigger to make the Sky Skiff a valid target?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T06:28:30.447" Title="When do I need to choose a target for &quot;Enters the battlefield&quot; triggers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32558" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32556" CreationDate="2016-09-27T05:43:28.943" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The short answer is yes, they're different. Changes to power and toughness are effects that can be caused by a bunch of different things. Jarad gets a boost based on the number of creatures in the graveyard, there are abilities that let you spend mana for boosts (e.g. firebreathing), and there are spells that do it, typically until end of turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A +1/+1 counter is a counter that provides a +1/+1 effect. You can represent it by placing a physical counter of some kind on the creature. With Corpsejack Menace, you place twice as many counters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jarad's boost does not mention counters anywhere, so you do not get any benefit from Corpsejack Menace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T05:43:28.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32559" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32557" CreationDate="2016-09-27T06:18:40.173" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have to choose targets as the ability goes on the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1. Some spells and abilities require their controller to choose one or more targets for them. ... These targets are&#xA;  declared as part of the process of putting the spell or ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only spells and abilities use the stack - there is no point at which the stack contains the trigger event &quot;Herald just entered the battlefield&quot;. Instead, when a triggered ability's trigger condition is met, the ability itself is put on the stack (and any targets must be chosen) the next time a player would receive priority. Thus you do not get priority between the time Herald enters the battlefield and the time the ETB ability goes on the stack, so you cannot have Herald crew Sky Skiff in time to make Sky Skiff a legal target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T06:28:30.447" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T06:28:30.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32560" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23576" CreationDate="2016-09-27T06:46:28.150" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is the type of thing that is abstract enough that it will depend on the judgement calls of judges at a specific event. I can imagine situations where this can be true and untrue.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So for instance, if you are in match 6 at a Grand-Prix and the match is tied up one game a piece. It suddenly becomes clear to one player that he cannot win anymore and suddenly he wants to pile shuffle every time his opponent cracks a fetch land, then it is very much against the rules. He is wasting time to gain an advantage by getting the match to go to time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;I see tons of players pile shuffle at large tournaments. I watch them&#xA;  pile shuffle while totally engulfed by hordes of judges because they&#xA;  are playing on camera. I always pile shuffle my deck during pregame to&#xA;  count cards. I pile shuffle my opponent's deck to do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pile shuffling your opponents deck at a competitive level may pose a problem. That does seem rather redundant. I would think it better for players to just pile shuffle their own decks and if need be just to do a quick &quot;regular&quot; shuffle of their opponents deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, pile shuffling as part of the pre-game ritual is perfectly fine. It is not uncommon for the shuffling done between games to take a few minutes. You will often see players pile shuffling at a good speed to make it perfectly clear that they are not wasting any time to gain some sort of advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pile shuffling does not randomize a deck. Except during pregame, where&#xA;  pile shuffling allows players to count the number of cards in the&#xA;  deck, it might be considered a waste of time, and therefore considered&#xA;  slow play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A waste of time is not the standard for why slow play is illegal. There are actual cards that do nothing else than shuffle your deck. Truly a waste of time but if you play these cards at a tournament no one is going to call a judge because of your miser cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T06:46:28.150" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32561" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32511" CreationDate="2016-09-27T07:02:11.650" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It adds  a couple of things to decks that define the power level of YuGiOh decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Firstly it gives card advantage. Simply put when two decks of similar power level play each other, the one which draws the most cards will in most cases win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Secondly, you have small deck sizes in yugioh. The general consensus in TCG design is the fewer cards decks start with, the greater the power of drawing a card becomes. If you think about you are getting 40 percent of a starting hand back with it every time you play it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thirdly, it is free. There is no cost in playing it. That makes it so that unless there is better draw (Unlikely) it will always be correct to play as many of these as the format allows.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will take away a lot of deck creativity. Seeing as this game already starts with a limited amount of cards, having cards that are auto-includes really hurt the health of the format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lastly, it is old and uninteresting. This card had its time in the sun. It will not provide new formats with any new type of gameplay. It will also not really sell packs as this is not a rare card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T07:02:11.650" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32562" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32781" CreationDate="2016-09-27T09:06:07.987" Score="4" ViewCount="5560" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played a couple of games as Baratheon or closely observing the Baratheon player, and in my experience, there are two initial strategies that people choose. I'm undecided which one is better.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is centered around Storm's End - is it better to take it, or leave it to Martells, who will in 90% of cases take it right in the 1st turn. You have the advantage of moving first though, so you can do it before them. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the games where I chose to take it, the Martells usually didn't engage me and attack it right away, so I managed to basically confine them to Dorne throughout most of the game. On the other hand, I always ended up stretching my forces thin, and ultimately I had a hard time defending it from Martells/Tyrells, also leaving King's Landing exposed, and weakening my northern defences against the Starks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I decided to leave it to Martells however, I gave them more space to breathe and grow, and they ended up constantly harrassing my lands, and the support orders they gave from Storm's End's port helped them a lot in war against me. This option has the benefit of not antagonizing the Martells so early on, but I'm not sure about the gain of it, since from what I have seen, Martells usually ally with the Tyrells, not Baratheons, who stand in their way to go north, so they mostly end up attacking Baratheons anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which strategy is better?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18370" LastEditorUserId="18370" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T07:54:39.220" LastActivityDate="2019-04-11T12:11:49.103" Title="How to open with Baratheon at Game of Thrones Board Game?" Tags="|game-of-thrones|openings|tactics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32563" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32566" CreationDate="2016-09-27T10:27:21.337" Score="2" ViewCount="649" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend plays chaos space marines with the old codex. We want to play maelstrom of war and I think that having datacards to draw objectives is very handy. I can't find a chaos space marines datacard deck anywhere. What deck should he use? There are chaos daemons and chaos daemonkin, but I reckon that these are different armies from the chaos space marines. Is there any other option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastEditorUserId="14266" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T11:01:22.380" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:34:09.580" Title="What datacards should a chaos space marines player use in a maelstrom of war game?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32566" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32563" CreationDate="2016-09-27T15:34:09.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have two options - there is a basic set of objective cards that is not army specific - any army can use these.  Additionally, the book &quot;Traitor's Hate&quot; details a new, Chaos Space Marine specific set of objectives that can be used.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does not appear that you can buy these as a set of cards on their own, but it would not surprise me if this changed eventually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, the only difference between any army's specific objectives and the generic objectives are in objectives 11,12,13,14,15,16.  You could use the basic cards, and replace those when they appear with the ones in the book (though, this requires you to pay more attention when drawing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13410" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T15:34:09.580" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32567" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-27T16:35:47.623" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Bootleggers&lt;/em&gt; is an economic game in which players take on the role of bootleggers during the 1920's prohibition era. It was first published in 2004 by Eagle-Gryphon Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/12477/bootleggers&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T17:53:08.320" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T17:53:08.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32568" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-27T16:35:47.623" Score="0" Body="An economic game in which players take on the role of bootleggers during the 1920's prohibition era" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-09-27T17:53:02.297" LastActivityDate="2016-09-27T17:53:02.297" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32569" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32575" CreationDate="2016-09-28T05:51:56.013" Score="0" ViewCount="75" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bohnanza: Gangsters, two of the beanfields are managed by the mafia.  The rules state that they immediately harvest their beans once they have a big enough harvest to get 3 or 2 coins (depending on the gangster).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a rule that no player can harvest during phase 4 (the drawing of 3 cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does the mafia harvest immediately during phase 4, or do they wait until the end of the phase 4 and then sell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12667" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T13:15:10.623" Title="In Bohnanza: Gangsters, does the Mafia act in phase 4?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32570" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32574" CreationDate="2016-09-28T07:52:32.460" Score="3" ViewCount="624" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm trying to find information on the lore of the recent blocks, namely Battle for Zendikar, Shadows over Innistrad, and Kaladesh.  It looks like all the previous sets up through Theros had an accompanying 2-3 book series.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there book series' for the recent sets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7007" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T12:56:12.870" Title="Are there Magic: The Gathering lore books for the recent blocks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32571" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28283" CreationDate="2016-09-28T12:08:12.620" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No.&lt;/strong&gt; You do not &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to use your assist cards. They are optional. The text on the cards is what happens if you &lt;em&gt;choose&lt;/em&gt; to use them, not rules that enter play once the card is drawn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18520" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T12:08:12.620" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32574" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32570" CreationDate="2016-09-28T12:50:38.253" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wizards of the Coast stopped printing physical novels with the Return to Ravnica block &lt;a href=&quot;http://dougbeyermtg.tumblr.com/post/99331420759/ebooks-and-the-accessibility-of-magics-story&quot;&gt;due to them not selling particularly well&lt;/a&gt;. Starting with Battle for Zendikar they started a series of books that showcase the art from the current plane and give an overview of the story from that plane, these books are titled &lt;em&gt;The Art of Magic: the Gathering - [Plane Name]&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During Return to Ravinica block they still had novels, but they were only released in ebook form. After Theros they moved all of the story for Magic to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/columns/magic-story-archive&quot;&gt;Magic Story&lt;/a&gt; (previously called Uncharted Realms) column on their website. Periodically they compile several stories into an ebook format and release that (they usually do this every block or so), for example the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/magic-fiction-ebook-collection-2015-09-23&quot;&gt;Magic Origins and Prologue to Battle for Zendikar&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T12:56:12.870" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T12:56:12.870" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32575" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32569" CreationDate="2016-09-28T13:15:10.623" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the answer already.  You're just stumbling over the definition of &quot;player&quot;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mafia are not players.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players may not harvest during phase 4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mafia must harvest when they reach the specified amount of coin value, regardless of what phase it is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7843" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T13:15:10.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32576" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-28T13:53:45.690" Score="3" ViewCount="751" Body="&lt;p&gt;Attacking a planet where you already have tokens would ordinarily make no sense, but I saw a player forced to do so recently because they already had tokens on all 4 planets (the 5th had earlier been blown up).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We did not see anything specifically prohibiting this in the rules, and we looked a little online, but could find nothing. So we decided that the player must choose a planet to attack, and if the defending player had no tokens there then the defender would have to defend with zero tokens, as usual. Winning obviously didn't help the player on offense, but the attack had to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this the correct interpretation of the rules, or is a redraw of the destiny pile permitted in situations like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular scenario, the player who was forced to attack under these unfavorable circumstances likely would have won if not forced to attack a system where gaining a base was impossible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2260" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T14:44:44.277" Title="May I choose a planet to attack in an opposing system where I already have tokens?" Tags="|cosmic-encounter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32577" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32576" CreationDate="2016-09-28T14:44:44.277" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You played this correctly.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only rule explicitly stating that the offense gets to change their Destiny card is when they draw their own system. The &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/Cosmic%20Encounter/cosmic-encounter-rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rule book&lt;/a&gt; is also explicit that the defending player must still defend, but with 0 ships (on page 12): &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;As stated earlier, if a player has no colony on a home planet that he or she is defending, the player defends the planet normally except that his or her ship count is zero.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This section covers your problem. The offense drew a system where the defense had no colonies, so the offense picks a planet and attacks normally. The player whose home system is being attacked still gets to defend, but with 0 ships.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T14:44:44.277" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32578" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-28T14:52:20.230" Score="2" ViewCount="66" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Bonanza: Gangsters, the mafia can steal cards during phase 4.  You pick 3 cards, and if they match a mafia's bean field, they take that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that if the bean drawn matches a mafia's bean field, they take it and you immediately draw a card to replace it.  If that card &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; matches a mafia's bean field, is it also taken?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask because in the next rule, regarding pulling cards from the discard pile, the rules are very explicit about repeating the process until the top discard card no longer matches the currently drawn card.  They are not as clear for the mafia rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12667" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T14:52:20.230" Title="In Bonanza: Gangsters, can the mafia steal more than one card during phase 4?" Tags="|bohnanza|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32579" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32581" CreationDate="2016-09-28T17:33:32.653" Score="6" ViewCount="12748" Body="&lt;p&gt;I used to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bProphet%20of%20Kruphix%5d&quot;&gt;Prophet of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt; in my commander deck, but it is now banned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While giving all creatures flash is nice, but I really used it for it's land untap ability. Are there any other cards that let me untap my lands on other player's turns?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8021" LastEditorUserId="8021" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T13:04:49.557" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T16:07:38.227" Title="Cards that untap lands on opponents' turns" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32580" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32579" CreationDate="2016-09-28T17:54:36.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are 2 other options for you: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/cards/tenth-edition/13990-seedborn-muse&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/cards/tenth-edition/13990-seedborn-muse&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/cards/stronghold/4946-awakening&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/cards/stronghold/4946-awakening&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T17:54:36.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32581" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32579" CreationDate="2016-09-28T18:03:33.953" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can do a quick search for &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/query?q=o%3A%22untap%22%20o%3A%22other%20player%22&amp;amp;v=card&amp;amp;s=cname&quot;&gt;keywords like 'untap' + 'other player'&lt;/a&gt; to find some cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This'll put you on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSeedborn%20Muse%5d&quot;&gt;Seedborn Muse&lt;/a&gt;. She's the original Prophet of Kruphix, but hasn't been hit by a ban because she doesn't have that super-juicy &quot;flash&quot; clause. (And because being mono-green means she props up more diverse archetypes than a UG card does.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that your only option? Not quite: try other keywords (maybe filter down to your colors and search 'untap' + 'land' or 'untap' + 'permanent').&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some highlights that you're likely to miss unless you try a lot of search permutations:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAwakening%5d&quot;&gt;Awakening&lt;/a&gt; is a green enchantment that untaps everyone's stuff. (And allows heavily-instant-speed decks to double-dip mana on their own turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPatron%20of%20the%20Orochi%5d&quot;&gt;Patron of the Orochi&lt;/a&gt; is a big green creature that you can use to untap all your &lt;em&gt;green&lt;/em&gt; creatures and &lt;em&gt;forests&lt;/em&gt; each turn. (And can also be used to double up your mana on your own turn.)&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1910" LastEditorUserId="1910" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T23:54:20.547" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T23:54:20.547" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32582" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32583" CreationDate="2016-09-28T18:46:10.697" Score="4" ViewCount="195" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the easier ways to lose a game contract is to have something like Jxx opposite Txx, and lose the first three tricks with a &quot;long&quot; and weak suit. That spells automatic defeat at a minor suit contract, even with the remaining 31 points (29 is ordinarily needed to make game), one trick to go at a major suit contract, and two tricks to go at no trump.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I believe that there are some authorities who will deduct a point for say, a 4-3-3-3 distribution. Does that get one to the same place in a roundabout way? Or am I right to be specifically concerned about the three &quot;little ones&quot; in a hand like A952 AT64 863 AK?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T00:13:43.473" Title="Are there systems or experts that will deduct a point for weak tripletons?" Tags="|bridge|bidding|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32583" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32582" CreationDate="2016-09-28T19:22:30.007" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Losing trick count is a form of hand evaluation where you count the number of losers in each suit, to a maximum of 3 per suit. So&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A, AK, AKQ, AKQxxx, and -void- are all 0-loser suits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;x, K, Ax AKx, AQx are all 1-loser suits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Qx, xx, QJx, Kxx are all 2-loser suits&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Jxx, xxxx, xxxxx, are all 3-loser suits.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that 3 little in a suit is the worst possible holding -- it counts for 3 losers without covering any losers in another suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Losing trick count is a bit controversial -- note that Qxx xxxxx Qxx xx evaluates to 9 losers, as does AJT AJxx xx Jxxx, where the second is a far stronger hand. However, losing trick count is probably more accurate than high card points when evaluating a distributional hand that has a fit with partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The scale of evaluation is based on the assumption that when you add your losers to partner's and subtract that number from 24, you'll make that many tricks. So a 7-loser hand is a minimum opener / game force. An 8-loser hand is invitational and a 6-loser hand accepts. A 9-loser hand is a typical responding hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most players I know only use losing trick count to make decisions when they know that they have a known 9-card fit  or double fit with partner (or possibly a 4-4).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the other hand, I wouldn't worry overmuch about 3 small in a suit. Often partner will have an honor or shortness to make the suit less hopeless. Another way you can avoid bad games with 3 small is to be on the lookout for &lt;em&gt;wastage&lt;/em&gt;; when you have cramped honors in a suit (e.g. KQ tight, AQJ, etc) and partner shows a stopper in that suit, that's bad news -- it means that you're double-counting the honors in that suit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T19:22:30.007" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32584" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-09-28T22:51:04.670" Score="1" ViewCount="68" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ranged/siege attack phase and the melee attack phases end when both players have passed &quot;in succession.&quot;  Does this mean that, after passing, one could choose to act, such as in Bridge? i.e. A attacks, B attacks, A passes, B attacks, A attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T12:41:56.647" Title="In player v player combat, can a player resume attacking after I have passed?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32585" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-09-28T22:53:28.923" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-09-28T22:53:28.923" LastActivityDate="2016-09-28T22:53:28.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32586" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-09-28T22:53:28.923" Score="0" Body="Mage Knight is a board game played by 1 to 4 players. A player uses a Deed Deck full of actions that the player can take and competes against other players to gain fame. Each player may augment his deck with more powerful actions, spells, and artifacts during the game." OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="12617" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T04:29:15.083" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T04:29:15.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32587" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32582" CreationDate="2016-09-29T00:13:43.473" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Point count is a rough measure, and no good player relies on it exclusively.  Good players do know that xxx in a suit is generally a bad holding, more so in some situations than others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some partnerships play a form of help-suit game tries which basically ask partner to bid game unless they have a weak tripleton.  In other words, after 1S-2S, a bid of 3X asks partner to bid 3S with a weak tripleton in X (or sometimes also a doubleton and only 3 trump) and 4S otherwise.  This seems awfully specific but turns out quite useful, particularly if the 2S bid promises at least a good 7 points (with worse raises going through a forcing 1N response).  (You might make this 3X bid not only with xxx in the suit but also with something like AJxx.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Personally, I don't like help suit tries or constructive raises, but not to the extent that I refuse to play them with a partner who really wants to.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13579" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T00:13:43.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32588" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32589" CreationDate="2016-09-29T07:38:54.413" Score="-3" ViewCount="944" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does the power of Power Gem really means that you can use all powers regardless of its rank requirement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18528" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T12:51:51.160" Title="Confused in the capabilities of Power Gem in Munchkin:Marvel" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-09-30T01:18:19.517" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32589" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32588" CreationDate="2016-09-29T12:51:51.160" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card itself reads &quot;You may have any number of powers, regardless of rank&quot;. What's your question again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T12:51:51.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32590" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32592" CreationDate="2016-09-29T16:32:33.367" Score="19" ViewCount="2280" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was watching a World Series of Poker video, and noticed a strange thing with the percentages that each player had for their chance to win the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Before the flop, after all but 3 players had folded, the percentages were like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A: 9♥9♣ - 35%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B: A♦Q♦ - 40%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player C: J♥10♦ - 25%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player C folded, and immediately player A went to 56%, while player B went to 44%. Player B was the favorite based on his cards, but after player C folded, player A became the favorite. How is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here is the video in question, at the relevant timestamp:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZP3OrtcO-Q&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=1m22s&quot;&gt;https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZP3OrtcO-Q&amp;amp;feature=youtu.be&amp;amp;t=1m22s&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T22:03:27.823" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T21:07:07.720" Title="Can an opponent folding make you go from probable winner to probable loser?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="11" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32591" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32590" CreationDate="2016-09-29T17:08:56.813" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;While I don't have the exact math to prove it, it certainly seems reasonable.  The question to ask is, in the 25% of cases where C would've won, who would've had the second best hand?  If the answer is almost always A, then you'll get the results you saw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here the thing that really boosts A's chance are having a 9 on the table.  But when C is in play, that also leads to a lot of straight possibilities that would give the hand to C.  With C out of the picture, those hands strongly favor A.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that B's chances to win have NOT gone down.  They've actually increased from 40% to 44%.  It is just that now all the remaining hands go to a single player, so the comparison looks different.  B was always more likely to lose than win. He was just the &lt;strong&gt;individual&lt;/strong&gt; most likely to win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastEditorUserId="178" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T17:17:06.293" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T17:17:06.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32592" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32590" CreationDate="2016-09-29T17:11:30.493" Score="25" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose the five community cards wind up being 9♦, 10♥, 10♣, J♠, and 3♠. Then C would win with a better full house than A, but A's full house is better than B's pair of 10's. Before C folds, this would count towards his 25% win chance; after he folds it counts for A's 56%. When C folds, we're essentially taking his 25% chance to win, and splitting it up between the two remaining players. The issue then becomes that the cards that help C out also help A more than they help B, so most of C's 25% goes to A rather than B after C folds.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastEditorUserId="7613" LastEditDate="2016-09-29T20:26:34.167" LastActivityDate="2016-09-29T20:26:34.167" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32593" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32590" CreationDate="2016-09-30T00:14:57.433" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;B did not go from a probable winner to a probable looser&lt;br&gt;&#xA;The odds went up (slightly)&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Your odds would never go down as a result of a fold  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The odds were &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A: 9♥9♣ - 31%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B: A♦Q♦ - 43%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player C: J♥10♦ - 26%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After C folded &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player A: 9♥9♣ - 56%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player B: A♦Q♦ - 44%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider the 99&lt;br&gt;&#xA;As a pair it is currently ahead&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But any of 4 cards will beat it - AQJT&lt;br&gt;&#xA;There are also straight and flush draws    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the fold the 99 is still ahead&lt;br&gt;&#xA;But now now only 2 cards will beat it AQ  (and flush and straight)    &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AQ only went up slightly as it still has to improve to win&lt;br&gt;&#xA;If AQ improves to like a pair then JT would need 2 pair or a set and that is just not likely   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was the correct for B to call even though he was behind.  He was getting correct pot odds to call.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Jarvis was down to 23 big blinds so he felt like it was time to make move. If he could fold one player out and only facing two overs then a good play. If he cannot fold a player out or facing an over pair then a bad play.  That is poker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I watched the hand again. When B only called you could put him on AQ or lower. AA, KK, JJ, TT, and AK would have raised (against Duhamal a chip leader playing a lot of pots).  A was counting on folding out B and C not having a monster.  As is turned out C was raising light.  When it got to B he should mathematically  call unless he is facing AA or QQ and that is not likely.  The right mathematical call.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15365" LastEditorUserId="15365" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T01:36:01.420" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T01:36:01.420" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32596" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32597" CreationDate="2016-09-30T09:20:28.233" Score="2" ViewCount="1346" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, let me preface with that I do know that +1 and -1 counters cancel out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the cards for this play are:&lt;br/&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1 : &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArcbound%20Worker%5d&quot;&gt;Arcbound Worker&lt;/a&gt;(or any modular 1 critter)&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  1+: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHardened%20Scales%5d&quot;&gt;Hardened Scales&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br/&gt;&#xA;  1 : &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCauldron%20of%20Souls%5d&quot;&gt;Cauldron of Souls&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To set the field, all are in play, and Arcbound worker has 2 +1/+1 counters on it. (Achieved when it was brought into play, triggering Hardened Scales)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question is, if I give the Worker persist, have it swing, and try to bring it back from the grave, does it come back with a -1/-1 counter and a +1/+1 counter, and an additional +1/+1 counter thus resulting in a possible loop? Or do the counters cancel out before I can say Scales triggers?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18539" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2019-10-14T21:08:21.333" LastActivityDate="2019-10-15T12:29:18.520" Title="Does Persist, Modular, and Hardened Scales give me an infinite loop?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32597" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32596" CreationDate="2016-09-30T10:25:10.087" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The Arcbound Worker will return with 2 +1/+1 counters and one -1/-1 counter on it, resulting in one +1/+1 counter after state-based actions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hardened Scales' ability is not a triggered ability. It is a static ability with a replacement effect, so while it is in play, the Worker will always enter the battlefield with two +1/+1 counters on it; the game will never see the Worker with a single +1/+1 counter on it before state-based actions or other effects are processed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, when the Persisted Worker returns to play with Hardened Scales on the battlefield, the Worker will have 2 +1/+1 counters (from Modular and Hardened Scales) and a -1/-1 from Persist. State-based actions cause the -1/-1 and a +1/+1 counter to cancel out, resulting in a Worker with one +1/+1 counter on it before a player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T10:30:15.597" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T10:30:15.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32598" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32600" CreationDate="2016-09-30T14:14:07.347" Score="7" ViewCount="718" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNissa%2c%20Vital%20Force%5d&quot;&gt;Nissa, Vital Force&lt;/a&gt; at 3 loyalty in play and I know she will die next turn so I use her -3:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Return target permanent card from your graveyard to your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I return my Nissa, Vital Force from my graveyard with this ability or do I have to choose a target before the game checks if she has 0 loyalty and puts her in the graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16410" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-09-30T14:41:34.877" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T15:05:44.997" Title="Moment of selecting a target from an ability of a planeswalker" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32599" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32598" CreationDate="2016-09-30T14:21:19.407" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You won't be able to return Nissa with her own ability. What happens is this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You declare you are going to use the ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You choose targets for the ability (and modes, etc, etc)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay the cost of the ability (loyalty)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability goes on the stack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;State based actions are checked, and Nissa is moved to the graveyard. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, because 2 happens before 5, you can't choose Nissa as a target, as she is not in the graveyard yet. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T14:21:19.407" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32600" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32598" CreationDate="2016-09-30T14:25:54.650" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nissa will not be put into the graveyard until after you are done activating her ability (including choosing a target) so she will not be a legal target for her ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The process of activating an ability involves (among several other things) choosing targets and paying costs; these happen before the ability can go on the stack. Planeswalkers are put into the graveyard as a state-based action, these are checked every time a player would gain priority. Players don't gain priority during the process of activating an ability so there is no way for Nissa to be in the graveyard when you choose targets for her ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.2.&lt;/strong&gt; To activate an ability is to put it onto the stack and pay its costs, so that it will eventually resolve and have its effect. Only an object’s controller (or its owner, if it doesn’t have a controller) can activate its activated ability unless the object specifically says otherwise. Activating an ability follows the steps listed below, in order. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.2b&lt;/strong&gt; The remainder of the process for activating an ability is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2b–i.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt; The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2h&lt;/strong&gt; The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2i&lt;/strong&gt; Once the steps described in 601.2a–h are completed, the spell becomes cast. Any abilities that trigger when a spell is cast or put onto the stack trigger at this time. If the spell’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;116.2d&lt;/strong&gt; State-based actions happen automatically when certain conditions are met. See rule 704. They’re dealt with before a player would receive priority. See rule 116.5.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;704.5i&lt;/strong&gt; If a planeswalker has loyalty 0, it’s put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-09-30T15:05:44.997" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32601" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32584" CreationDate="2016-10-01T12:41:56.647" Score="2" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;pg. 10, Ranged and Siege Attacks, #6&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After resolving the attack, the other player gets his chance to be&#xA;  the attacker, and the Ranged and Siege Attack phase continues&#xA;  with both players alternating the roles of attacker and blocker.&#xA;  If both players pass on attacking in succession, the phase ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is worded in a slightly confusing manner because of:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;both players alternating the roles of attacker and blocker&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as opposed to&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If both players pass on attacking in succession, the phase ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These seem to be at odds with each other. However, the latter wording is more definitive because it specifies the conditions that need to be met for the phase to end: both players must pass in succession. The wording before it must then be an oversight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, the usefulness of this is questionable. The only reason I can see to want multiple attacks is to &quot;waste&quot; your opponent's &quot;big block&quot; cards, which are fairly rare, while stacking attacks has a number of benefits (only suffering &quot;rounding down&quot; effects once, having a choice of targeting units, etc).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;tl;dr&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can attack using separate attacks as long as you want.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18546" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T12:41:56.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32602" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="23565" CreationDate="2016-10-01T17:57:20.430" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are stacked up on the same space, the player on top does not receive income because his turn is not over. If you land on either of the 2 spaces the income button is touching then you receive income. Both squares the button touches allow for income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18547" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-10-01T20:57:05.897" LastActivityDate="2016-10-01T20:57:05.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32603" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32652" CreationDate="2016-10-02T00:17:11.097" Score="1" ViewCount="217" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since one can visit other sites such as Ruins and Dens and choose not to enter or engage, if you fail in battle against enemies here, I believe you are not forced off the space. Are Keeps and Mage Towers then the only space types where losing a battle forces you to leave the space?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T17:53:38.923" Title="Are Keeps and Mage Towers the only sites where failing to defeat an enemy forces you off the space?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32604" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32609" CreationDate="2016-10-02T04:43:20.643" Score="3" ViewCount="1352" Body="&lt;p&gt;So I understand the concept of dealing damage in the form of -X/-X to a creature. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card in question is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElven%20Palisade%5d&quot;&gt;Elven Palisade&lt;/a&gt;.&#xA;But with the example in my title, what's the point? If I use this enchantment on my opponent to give a creature of his -3/-0 until end of turn, wouldn't that -3/-0 disappear at the end of my turn and then his creature would be back to normal again? If I was dealing damage and reduced his toughness to 0 or less then I'd understand the significance, it would kill the creature.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are similar questions out there but they usually revolved around the toughness, not power. I'm also fully aware that my vocab here might make some of you cringe, but I'm just starting and trying to learn. Any help would be awesome! Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18549" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T12:46:08.870" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T07:51:07.337" Title="&quot;Target attacking creature gets -3/-0 until end of turn&quot; Help a noob out!" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32605" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32604" CreationDate="2016-10-02T04:57:27.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Giving a creature -X/-X is not dealing it damage. It simply reduces its power and toughness. A creature dies when it has damage marked on it greater than or equal to its toughness, or when it has zero toughness. So the toughness reduction makes it easier to kill or may just kill it outright, but it doesn't do so by dealing it damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, reducing a creature's power won't kill it. But that doesn't mean it's completely useless. The big reasons you might want to reduce an attacking creature's power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you want to take less damage from an attack (effectively gaining life)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you want to block the attacking creature, and have your blocking creature less damage. For example, blocking a 5/3 with a 3/3 normally means they'd trade. But if you can turn your opponent's creature into a 2/3, your 3/3 will survive.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you can cast Elven Palisade, and it'll sit around on the battlefield doing nothing until you decide you want to activate its ability. Since it has to target an attacking creature, you'll have to wait until your opponent attacks to use it. At that point, hopefully you'll be able to take advantage, using its ability on one or more attacking creatures of your choice. If you're really lucky, just the fact that you &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; use it will force them to be more cautious about attacking. But that also makes it much less likely you'll be able to take full advantage; they can just avoid dangerous attacks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously those things aren't as powerful as killing the creature outright, and sacrificing a land is a steep cost, so Elven Palisade isn't exactly the most powerful card. But the effect in general is far from useless.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T14:38:49.947" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T14:38:49.947" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32606" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32604" CreationDate="2016-10-02T05:09:40.687" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First off, effects that reduce power and toughness are not damage, and damage does not (normally) reduce toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that reducing the power of your opponent's creature won't kill it, and it'll be back to normal the next turn. What it does do is reduce the damage the attacking creature does. This can potentially buy you time to find a better answer, or prevent an ability that would trigger on combat damage. If it buys you one turn, but that one turn is enough to win, it's done work for you. Maybe there's some effect that cares about the creature's power; you might have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPuncturing%20Light%5d&quot;&gt;Puncturing Light&lt;/a&gt; that you want you use to actually destroy the attacker but the attacker is too big.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T05:09:40.687" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32607" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32608" CreationDate="2016-10-02T05:18:26.203" Score="3" ViewCount="1553" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEbonblade%20Reaper%5d&quot;&gt;Ebonblade Reaper&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Ebonblade Reaper attacks, you lose half your life, rounded up.&#xA;  Whenever Ebonblade Reaper deals combat damage to a player, that player loses half his or her life, rounded up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuietus%20Spike%5d&quot;&gt;Quietus Spike&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever equipped creature deals combat damage to a player, that&#xA;  player loses half his or her life, rounded up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An Ebonblade Reaper hits a player while equipped with a Quietus Spike. Assuming no other effects, does the player lose the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My interpretation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ebonblade Reaper deals 1 combat damage to a player.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Reaper and Quietus Spike triggered abilities are put onto the stack.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each effect causes that player to lose half their life.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;That player loses.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T05:32:53.780" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T16:40:15.300" Title="Does an Ebonblade Reaper holding a Quietus Spike kill players?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32608" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2016-10-02T05:31:58.527" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't work like that. The triggers decide how much damage to do when they &lt;em&gt;resolve&lt;/em&gt;, not when they're put onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if your opponent were at 21 (to make things simple) it'd go like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ebonblade Reaper deals 1 damage, putting them at 20. Both triggers go on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first of the triggers resolves, making them lose 10 life, putting them at 10.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second of the triggers resolves, making them lose 5 life, putting them at 5.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do get to pick what order the triggers go on the stack, but it doesn't really matter, since they're doing the same thing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T12:43:32.727" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T12:43:32.727" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32609" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32604" CreationDate="2016-10-02T08:29:48.097" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The -3/-0 of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElven%20Palisade%5d&quot;&gt;Elven Palisade&lt;/a&gt; is the effect of its &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;activated ability&lt;/a&gt;. It's not something that happens when you cast the palisade (which indeed will usually happen on your turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can activate the ability (and pay the cost of sacrificing a forest) any time you have priority. But (as noted in the comments by Gendolkari) you must choose an attacking creature as the target, so generally you will do this during the opponent's turn after they declared attackers and make one of the attacking creatures less powerful until the end of their turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8520" LastEditorUserId="8520" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T07:51:07.337" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T07:51:07.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32610" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32604" CreationDate="2016-10-02T11:31:01.530" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me help you with your vocabulary. I feel that, if you understand this terminology better, understanding of the rules will follow. Magic is very consistent in its wording, so it helps to understand that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;So I understand the concept of dealing damage in the form of -X/-X to&#xA;  a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You do not 'deal damage' in the form of -X/-X. The term 'dealing damage' is reserved for combat (when a creature uses its power-stat) and for 'burn'-spells or abilities that explicitly say 'deal damage'. See, for example, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=386365&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpikeshot%20Goblin%5d&quot;&gt;Spikeshot Goblin&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The card in question is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElven%20Palisade%5d&quot;&gt;Elven Palisade&lt;/a&gt;. But with the example in&#xA;  my title, what's the point? If I use this enchantment on my opponent&#xA;  to give a creature of his -3/-0 until end of turn, wouldn't that -3/-0&#xA;  disappear at the end of my turn and then his creature would be back to&#xA;  normal again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are right that the effect is not permanent. A -3/-0 will normally not kill a creature, and the ability on Elven Palissade explicitly state that it ends at end of turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I notice that you speak of enchanting his creature, but that's not the case here. You have an enchantment in play that has an activated ability (and it's the ability that gives a -3/-0), like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCompulsion%5d&quot;&gt;Compulsion&lt;/a&gt;. This is not an enchantment that is attached to a creature, like for instance &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInsolence%5d&quot;&gt;Insolence&lt;/a&gt; is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, when to use this ability? Well, you can activate this ability on his turn. When he attacks with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrained%20Armodon%5d&quot;&gt;Trained Armodon&lt;/a&gt;, you can sac a forest to give it -3/-0 and avoid getting damaged. If you also block it with, for example, a 4/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFirewing%20Phoenix%5d&quot;&gt;Firewing Phoenix&lt;/a&gt;, the Phoenix would kill the Armodon, but stay unharmed himself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If I was dealing damage and reduced his toughness to 0 or less then I'd understand the significance, it would kill the creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage does not reduce toughness. -X/-X reduces toughness. Damage stacks until it's equal or greater than a creature's toughness and the creature dies. If a creature is damaged in a turn, but not sufficiently to kill it, the damage wears off. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A special case is dealing too little damage to a creature to kill it, but using another effect to reduce its toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T11:55:35.140" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T11:55:35.140" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32611" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2016-10-02T14:35:27.773" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each ability triggers and is put on the stack, then they resolve one at a time. Rule 608.2g describes one of the steps to follow when resolving a spell or ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2g If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only once, when the effect is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, both abilities refer to &quot;his or her life&quot;. This value is checked when each ability resolves. The first ability will have finished resolving and therefore will have changed the player's life total before the second one begins resolving and checks it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="18318" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T16:05:19.003" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T16:05:19.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32612" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32607" CreationDate="2016-10-02T14:54:22.307" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;By expanding the scope of your question, you can achieve the desired result: winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Ebonblade Reaper is given Double Strike, and it deals combat damage to your opponent during both combat damage steps, you will win if the opponent has 20 or less life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the first combat damage step (ref: 510.5 and 702.4), Ebonblade Reaper deals 1 damage to the opponent, triggering both effects. AS the controller of both effects, you choose the order in which they enter the stack (inconsequential).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last in resolves, your opponent has T-1 = X life, and they lose Y life, where Y = ceiling (X/2). X'= X - Y.&#xA;The second effect resolves, your opponent has X' life, and they lose Y' life, where Y'= ceiling (X'/2). X'' = X'-Y'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the second combat damage step, Ebonblade Reaper deals 1 damage to the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last in resolves, your opponent has X''-1 = M life, and they lose Y life, where Y = ceiling (X/2). M'= M - Y.&#xA;The second effect resolves, your opponent has X' life, and they lose Y' life, where Y'= ceiling (X'/2). M'' = M'-Y'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, a table of numbers demonstrating the results, for starting opponent life totals of (0,21).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;    T     X     X'    X''  M    M'   M''&#xA;    21    20    10    5    4    2    1  &#xA;    20    19    9     4    3    1    0  &#xA;    19    18    9     4    3    1    0  &#xA;    18    17    8     4    3    1    0  &#xA;    17    16    8     4    3    1    0  &#xA;    16    15    7     3    2    1    0  &#xA;    15    14    7     3    2    1    0  &#xA;    14    13    6     3    2    1    0  &#xA;    13    12    6     3    2    1    0  &#xA;    12    11    5     2    1    0    0  &#xA;    11    10    5     2    1    0    0  &#xA;    10    9     4     2    1    0    0  &#xA;    9     8     4     2    1    0    0  &#xA;    8     7     3     1    0    0    0  &#xA;    7     6     3     1    0    0    0  &#xA;    6     5     2     1    0    0    0  &#xA;    5     4     2     1    0    0    0  &#xA;    4     3     1     0   -1   -1   -1  &#xA;    3     2     1     0   -1   -1   -1  &#xA;    2     1     0     0   -1   -1   -1  &#xA;    1     0     0     0   -1   -1   -1  &#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, you may be wondering about the -1's at the bottom of the table. The applicable rule is 107.1b:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.1b Most of the time, the Magic game uses only positive numbers and zero. You can’t choose a negative number, deal negative damage, gain negative life, and so on. However, it’s possible for a game value, such as a creature’s power, to be less than zero. If a calculation or comparison needs to use a negative value, it does so. &lt;strong&gt;If a calculation that would determine the result of an effect yields a negative number, zero is used instead, unless that effect sets a player’s life total to a specific value, doubles a player’s life total, sets a creature’s power or toughness to a specific value, or otherwise modifies a creature’s power or toughness&lt;/strong&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the event there is an effect that prevents your opponent from losing with due to having 0 or less life, the game continues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the Ebonblade Reaper deals damage during the second combat damage step, for starting life totals (1,4) your opponent is at -1 life. Calculating the effect, the ceiling of (-1/2) is 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It becomes interesting if the life total before the effect is applied is -2. Since the effect is determining how much life the opponent will lose, rather than setting the life total to a specific value, if it determines a negative value, the result is 0 instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, with -2 life, the opponent loses half their life, rounded up.&#xA;(-2/2) = -1, rounded to -1. Rule 107.1b sees the negative value, and turns it into a 0.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-10-02T16:40:15.300" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T16:40:15.300" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32613" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32618" CreationDate="2016-10-02T16:46:56.783" Score="4" ViewCount="3194" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Splendor, when I buy a development card, can I choose to pay the full price using coins, rather than exploiting the bonus price reduction given by the development cards I already own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Example:&lt;/strong&gt; I have 3 emerald resources, and 3 emerald coins. On the board, there are no development cards with a price of more than 3 emeralds. Can I buy one of those using my coins rather than exploiting the three cards I already own?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This happened during a game in which I miscounted my opponent's resources and she took a card worth 6 emeralds which I was after. In a later game phase, I was in the situation of having to get rid of the excess emeralds to free room for other gem coins I needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18553" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T15:02:54.650" Title="Splendor: can I use gem coins instead of development cards?" Tags="|splendor|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32616" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29411" CreationDate="2016-10-02T19:58:15.507" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The statistic theory presented by the question is best described &lt;a href=&quot;http://stattrek.com/online-calculator/hypergeometric.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Hypergeometric Distribution&lt;/a&gt;. During the game set up, 2 Non-betrayal objectives per player, and 1 Betrayal objective, are combined in the opening deck. From that 7 card deck, each player will draw 1 objective, 3 total. Your goal is that 3 non-betrayal objectives are drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N = number of items in the population = number of cards in the deck = 7&lt;br&gt;&#xA;k: The number of items in the population that are classified as successes. = number of non-betrayal objectives = 6&lt;br&gt;&#xA;n: The number of items in the sample = 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x: The number of items in the sample that are classified as successes. = number of non betrayal objectives drawn = 3  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;h(x; N, n, k) = [ kCx ] [ N-kCn-x ] / [ NCn ]&lt;br&gt;&#xA;where [aCb] = a(a - 1)(a - 2) ... (a - b + 1)/b! = a! / b!(a - b)!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 57.1428571428571% probability the betrayal objective isn't drawn, or that 3 non-betrayal objectives are drawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your question stipulates that the starting deck is only 4 objectivess, 3 non-betrayal and 1 betrayal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N = number of items in the population = number of cards in the deck = 4&lt;br&gt;&#xA;k: The number of items in the population that are classified as successes. = number of non-betrayal objectives = 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;n: The number of items in the sample = 3&lt;br&gt;&#xA;x: The number of items in the sample that are classified as successes. = number of non betrayal objectives drawn = 3  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a 25% probability the betrayal objective isn't drawn, or that 3 non-betrayal objectives are drawn. This is equivalent to the prospect of choosing one card from the Deck of 4, and letting the players select what remains.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T19:58:15.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32617" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32590" CreationDate="2016-10-02T21:07:07.720" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;When player C folded, both player's chances went up. B's chances rose from 40% to 44%, while A's chances rose from 35% to 56%.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happened was that A captured &quot;most&quot; of C's chances. The reason is that both players would benefit from a 9 that would make a straight for A, and a &quot;set&quot; or full house for C.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;B benefited from capturing C's chances of making a second pair behind his &quot;set&quot; (or pair) (not a lot). Meanwhile, A benefited more from C's chances of getting the 9.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So B is no &quot;less&quot; probable a winner when C folded, but s/he went from first of three to second of two in terms of &quot;relative&quot; probability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T21:07:07.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32618" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32613" CreationDate="2016-10-02T21:37:10.010" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's not explicit in &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.spacecowboys.fr/img/games/splendor/details/rules/Rules_Splendor_US.pdf&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; whether you're allowed to do that, but they say:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if  a  player  has  2  blue  bonuses  and  wants  to  purchase  a&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  card which costs 2 blue tokens and 1 green token, the player &#xA;  must only spend 1 green token.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use of the word &lt;strong&gt;must&lt;/strong&gt; would suggest that the discount from the cards is mandatory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I can see no reason why you would want to use up coins when you don't need to. You can &lt;strong&gt;always&lt;/strong&gt; take 3 coins (or 2 of the same colour if 4 or more are left). You only have to discard coins if you have more than 10 at the &lt;strong&gt;end&lt;/strong&gt; of your turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A  player  can  never  have  more  than  10  tokens  at  the  end  of&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  their turn (including jokers). If this happens, they must return &#xA;  tokens until they only have 10 left.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in the example in your question you could carry on taking new coins and discard the unwanted emeralds at the end of your turn if you had more than 10 coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2364" LastActivityDate="2016-10-02T21:37:10.010" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32619" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-03T00:24:47.500" Score="2" ViewCount="88" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I have a Haemunclous start a match with a unit of Harlequin Troupe in the deep strike reserves using the webway portal rule?  With both having their own codex's now they're battle brothers, I know I can't start the Troupe in a Raider so I was hoping this would be a decent loophole. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18558" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T00:24:47.500" Title="Warhammer 40k Dark Eldar+Harlequins" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32620" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32622" CreationDate="2016-10-03T04:44:10.463" Score="3" ViewCount="1280" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Gloom, you can play modifiers on opponents' characters, and the action applies to that character's player.  For example, one card might say &quot;discard your hand&quot;.  It has good stats, but the discard is a balancing downside.  You can use that against an opponent to make them discard their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, what does &quot;Skip your draw step this turn&quot; mean for an opponent?  Do they skip their (nonexistent) draw step during your turn, or does it apply the next time it can (their turn?).  Along with that, does a &quot;Discard your hand. Skip your draw step this turn&quot; mean an opponent would essentially miss two turns? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T16:21:58.323" Title="What does skipping a draw phase mean for an opponent in Gloom?" Tags="|gloom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32621" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32579" CreationDate="2016-10-03T16:07:38.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Another option (though unfortunately just for a single land) is Urban Burgeoning from Return to Ravnica. I haven't looked it up myself, but im pretty sure there are other cards that untap on opponent turns if you widen your search for &quot;land&quot;, &quot;untap&quot;, &quot;upkeep&quot;, and &quot;player&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15155" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T16:07:38.227" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32622" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32620" CreationDate="2016-10-03T16:21:58.323" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1232101/rules-clarification-gloom-2nd-edition-was-shunned&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this answer on BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt; from one of the game's designers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Correct: most likely you will start your next turn with no cards and&#xA;  be unable to do anything, effectively missing a turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In first edition, the effect was simply &quot;Skip your next turn.&quot; By the&#xA;  current rules, you can still end up being able to play if some other&#xA;  card effect ends up giving you cards - for example, someone cheers up&#xA;  your shunned character. Also, if you are playing with Stories (from&#xA;  Unquiet Dead), you could use an action on your turn to claim a story.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A key point here is that you skip your draw phase &quot;THIS&quot; turn - the&#xA;  turn on which the card is played. If you use the card on yourself, you&#xA;  don't get to draw back up at the end of the turn. If someone else&#xA;  plays it on you on THEIR turn, you wouldn't draw back up anyway, so&#xA;  this effect does nothing. You don't skip your NEXT draw phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8296" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T16:21:58.323" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32623" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-03T17:54:06.300" Score="3" ViewCount="242" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Caylus I can't see the interest of placing a worker at the gate (first fixed building along the road) unless you really can't decide what to do and prefer to let the choice to bad fortune.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10282" LastEditorUserId="10282" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T18:06:58.677" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T11:36:48.743" Title="In Caylus what is the point of placing a worker at the gate" Tags="|caylus|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32624" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-03T18:51:41.497" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Mysterium&lt;/em&gt; is a cooperative game involving helping a ghost identify who it was who killed them. The English version was first published in 2015 by Asmodee and Libellud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/181304/mysterium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T20:40:46.550" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T20:40:46.550" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32625" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-03T18:51:41.497" Score="0" Body="A cooperative game involving helping a ghost identify who it was who killed them." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T20:40:50.057" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T20:40:50.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32626" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32623" CreationDate="2016-10-03T19:29:36.513" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can use it several ways. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, if you want to push building the castle, but not in the first place, so you can make your opponent waste a little more resources to obtain a favor. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also you can use it if you aren't sure how the probost will move, to make sure you will use your pawn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyway, it's another way to put some preasure on your opponent, a way to have a little advantage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1712" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T19:29:36.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32627" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32628" CreationDate="2016-10-03T20:31:10.707" Score="2" ViewCount="8180" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can a players Energy Counters be increased using Proliferate?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems like it would be the case, as Poison Counters seem to work in a similar way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3321" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2019-07-03T22:31:17.860" LastActivityDate="2019-07-03T22:31:17.860" Title="Does Proliferate work with Energy Counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32628" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32627" CreationDate="2016-10-03T20:39:32.507" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, like poison and experience counters before them players get energy counters, and proliferate can add an additional counter of a type a player has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThriving%20Rhino%5d&quot;&gt;Thriving Rhino&lt;/a&gt; enters the battlefield, you get {E}{E} (two energy counters).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that 2 energy counters are placed on you when you play a Thriving Rhino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;121.1.&lt;/strong&gt; A counter is a marker placed on an object or player that modifies its characteristics and/or interacts with a rule, ability, or effect. Counters are not objects and have no characteristics. Notably, a counter is not a token, and a token is not a counter. Counters with the same name or description are interchangeable.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.25a&lt;/strong&gt; To proliferate means to choose any number of permanents and/or players that have a counter, then give each exactly one additional counter of a kind that permanent or player already has.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T20:39:32.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32629" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-03T23:02:34.133" Score="1" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm wanting to start an in-office game of diplomacy - the requirements are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can restrict game to one turn per day. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If people don't make a move (they are a way), some default action is taken. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Moves are not required on the weekend. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T23:02:34.133" Title="Where can I play diplomacy online?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-10-04T12:34:01.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32630" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32631" CreationDate="2016-10-03T23:09:35.317" Score="1" ViewCount="405" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose I wanted to author a homebrew spell that would require paying just the colored portion of another card's mana cost as an additional cost. Is there a &quot;proper&quot; way to format that with the rules as written?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, imagine a creature with the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}, Reveal a creature card from your hand and pay the colored part of its mana cost: Put the revealed card into play under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using this ability should give me a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTerastodon%5d&quot;&gt;Terastodon&lt;/a&gt; for {G}{G}, or a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlightsteel%20Colossus%5d&quot;&gt;Blightsteel Colossus&lt;/a&gt; for free.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know there are cards that refer to the number of colored mana symbols of permanents (devotion), but I don't know any that refer to them while they are cards or spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18565" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T10:54:08.103" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T16:35:56.440" Title="What is the colored part of a mana cost called?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|terminology|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32631" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32630" CreationDate="2016-10-03T23:29:43.410" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules don't directly define a term for this part of the cost, but they do use a relevant term in one of the rules describing cost reductions, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Cost&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;117.7a&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Effects that reduce a cost by an amount of generic mana affect only the generic mana component of that cost. They can’t affect the &lt;strong&gt;colored or colorless mana components&lt;/strong&gt; of that cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, &quot;colored mana component of the cost&quot; is a reasonable term to use for the colored part of the mana cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also get a functionally equivalent effect by borrowing the wording of the Emerge ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}, Reveal a creature card from your hand and pay its mana cost reduced by its converted mana cost: ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T06:46:06.243" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T06:46:06.243" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32632" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32630" CreationDate="2016-10-03T23:34:13.133" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The term would be 'colored mana cost'&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Although there is no specific definition of such a term because no card uses it, rule 601.2b mentions the term &quot;colored mana cost&quot; in the context of Phyrexian mana symbols:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;601.2b [..] If a cost that will be paid as the spell is being cast includes Phyrexian mana symbols, the player announces whether he or she intends to pay 2 life or the corresponding &lt;strong&gt;colored mana cost&lt;/strong&gt; for each of those symbols. [..]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The wording on your card could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}: You may pay the colored mana cost of a creature card in your hand. If you do, put that card onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Revealing the card would be omitted as a step because you would put the card onto the battlefield anyway, where everyone can see it and check that the appropriate amount of mana has been paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-10-03T23:40:11.477" LastActivityDate="2016-10-03T23:40:11.477" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32633" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32650" CreationDate="2016-10-04T01:06:00.500" Score="9" ViewCount="1259" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is there a good mechanic for taking an anonymous action in a card game, specifically one that still moves resources?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For context, in one phase of this game, each player will give the target player a card. These are shuffled face-down and given to the target player, each having a certain effect on him.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd ideally like a way that a card could do something like steal gold (represented with tokens) without having to reveal who played that card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm also trying to avoid too much of an honor system, so having someone just add gold to their own count by tracking with a pencil and paper isn't a great solution really.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13024" LastEditorUserId="8125" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T11:03:37.880" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T11:03:37.880" Title="Mechanic for secret actions in a card game" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32636" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2016-10-04T01:59:51.580" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hmm, tough one. I don't see a way to do this as long as you have physical resource tokens. Even if the number of tokens is obscured via a bag or similar, it's really hard to conceal a transaction between two players. Two ideas come to mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have one player dedicated to a standalone banker position. This player would be responsible for housing all other players resources and brokering transactions. In your case, they'd have to be handed the event cards unshuffled (so they'd know who provided what), perform the required transactions secretly, then shuffle the cards and pass them to the target. But nobody wants to do that by itself, so you'd have to integrate it into game play by creating some additional set of victory conditions for this player. E.g., maybe she can choose to play underhanded and shortchange other players, keeping some resources for herself. Of course, now you're faced with the additional task of, how does each player remember what their resource bank looks like? Maybe they have counter cards like in King of Tokyo where they can spin a dial to set what they think they have. Imagine this conversation...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player: (looks at card, sees their wood counter at 5) &quot;I spend four wood to build a house.&quot; (spins wood counter to 1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Banker: &quot;I'm sorry, you only have three wood.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player: &quot;What?&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Banker: &quot;I'm afraid there's been a fire.&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player: &quot;You cheating scum!&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This of course opens up the wonderful tactic of intentionally trying to spend more than you know you have, so that the banker will have to tell you that you don't have that much, so you can accuse them of stealing and hurt their reputation with the other players. Heh heh, this seems pretty damn fun actually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Alternatively, if you don't have physical resource tokens then you have to have electronic ones. This pretty much implies that you'll need some sort of electronic device included with the game, or (more likely) a companion app that each player runs on their phone. (Heh, I'm a software engineer, so this is how I tend to solve problems.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6837" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T01:59:51.580" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32637" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-04T02:15:06.370" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Trajan&lt;/em&gt; is a Roman-themed board game with a central mechanic similar to mancala. Not to be confused with the 1991 wargame with the same name. It was first published in English by Ammonit Spiele in 2011.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/102680/trajan&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trajan_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T02:29:46.060" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T02:29:46.060" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32638" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-04T02:15:06.370" Score="0" Body="A Roman-themed board game with a central mechanic similar to mancala. Not to be confused with the 1991 wargame with the same name." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T02:29:49.083" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T02:29:49.083" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32639" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-04T05:11:18.600" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Circus Imperium&lt;/em&gt; is a chariot racing miniatures game based loosely on FASA's RPG Renegade Legion. It was first published by FASA in 1988.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2224/circus-imperium&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T06:26:49.113" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T06:26:49.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32640" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-04T05:11:18.600" Score="0" Body="A chariot racing miniatures game based loosely on FASA's RPG Renegade Legion." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T06:26:54.730" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T06:26:54.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32641" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-04T05:14:24.037" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;em&gt;Final Fantasy Trading Card Game&lt;/em&gt; is a trading card game featuring characters and other elements from the Final Fantasy video game franchise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was first published by Hobby Japan in 2011. It is Japanese-language only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/93287/final-fantasy-trading-card-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T06:26:45.820" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T06:26:45.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32642" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-04T05:14:24.037" Score="0" Body="A trading card game featuring characters and other elements from the Final Fantasy video game franchise." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T06:26:51.713" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T06:26:51.713" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32643" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32623" CreationDate="2016-10-04T11:19:46.697" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's far more useful in a 2 player game than it is in a 5 and to me the tactic is all about controlling building in the castle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 2 player game if I place on the gate and my opponent doesn't go to the castle then I can move it and build one section of castle to get the favour cheaply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is especially useful if you have more cubes than your opponent.  They know if they go to the castle you can just follow them and build more sections (or make them spend most of there cube so stand a much better chance of getting the favour every turn).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short placing on the gate means you are trying to force your opponent to spend at the castle rather than other sections on the board or let you have an easy favour.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a 5 player game I agree its fairly pointless as you may just as well move where you want to go.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T11:36:48.743" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T11:36:48.743" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32644" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2016-10-04T13:16:18.960" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;One thought I had was that the cards played against the player are still in play (and could have stolen resources on them), but they aren't applied to the &quot;giver&quot; until claimed. This would reduce the resources of the target, but not give away the &quot;giver&quot; until they wanted to show it.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I like to think of it like illicit money (which it kinda is!) and having an audited bank account. It's really hard to tell you've stolen money until you add it to your account or have more possessions than you should have. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, how to make sure that someone doesn't claim your card: one thought is that the cards would be put into envelopes with a clear side.  You put the action at the window, and a &quot;it's mine&quot; card behind it.  Then when claiming show your card. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This idea does have the problem of cards laying around unclaimed, but it would depend on how often it happens during a game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T13:16:18.960" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32645" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2016-10-04T13:41:09.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Piggy banks!&#xA;You can't say &quot;Give 3 coins to a Player A&quot; and not make it obvious they are the theaf, right? Make it &quot;Put 3 coins in the red piggy bank&quot; instead. Now, the players were assigned colors secretly at the start of the game and each have corresponding set of cards of their color, but nobody knows which is which. &#xA;The tricky part, though, is to let people pick up money  from their piggy bank (possibly along with played cards of their color) later in the game. &#xA;I see next options: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Most obvious and most fiddly. Add a phase when all players leave/close eyes/cycle piggy banks under the table and have an opportunity to secretly check their own piggy bank. You'll need a specific key for each piggy bank for this to work.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Reval everybody's colors at the end of the round (maybe after a set of rounds), take what's yours and then re-assign colors again.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Make it a voluntarily reveal action, so you can pick up your &quot;income&quot; when you need it, but everyone knows who you are from now on.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Never pick up money, just check who had stolen more at the end of the game.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or just use an app.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T13:41:09.347" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32646" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32649" CreationDate="2016-10-04T15:01:05.627" Score="1" ViewCount="233" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently pulled a &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=417632&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Padeem, Consul of Innovation&lt;/a&gt; from a Kaladesh booster box, and placed it into a deck I was working on. When playtesting the deck with some friends, I noticed a card with a clear visual marker on the card on the top of my deck. When I pulled it my next turn, it was my Padeem I had recently obtained. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its a very, very clear marker, a white oval on the backside of the card. If it was on the front, I would just live with it, but I don't want to bring these cards to a LGS event and get accused of marking my cards, or having one of my friends always know whats in my hand. The frontside of the card is completely clean. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I have any options here? Can I get a refund or sell this type of card to someone who collects misprints? Am I just going to have to fill in the circle, and hope its not noticeable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yqQv.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yqQv.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Clear deformity, white oval on top of card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18120" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T15:18:19.140" Title="Magic card has clear deformity, options?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-04T15:20:52.320" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32647" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32646" CreationDate="2016-10-04T15:08:44.263" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there is a mark on the back of the card, you could use opaque sleeves to hide the backs. This also protects your cards and can help in shuffling as well. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T15:08:44.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32648" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2016-10-04T15:17:09.373" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how long you'd want to be anonymous to the target player, and assuming every other player plays their cards anonymous at the same time you could do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each player takes one bag from a set of colored bags (or alternatively card sleeves, or something similar) and puts their action card in it without making it obious to the target player which player used which color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;put all bags in a single container (or just mix them together), then hand it to the target player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;the target player now opens each bag, reads the card, acts according to the instructions given (such as &lt;em&gt;&quot;Put 4 Gold Pieces in this bag, you scallywag!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;) and puts the original card in the bag as well, then returns the bag and the possibly added contents to the container&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;after all bags are handled, the container is returned to the other players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each player then takes their bag and verifies it's contents using the card that was returned along with the &quot;loot&quot;, and may protest at this point if that player didn't follow the instructions, using the returned card and the rest of the bag's contents as proof&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This system has the following qualities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimal memorization is required - players only need to remember the cards they put into the bag, and only until they get it back&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;other players than the target player will know what bag color you've chosen, but because you can choose a different color each time, this isn't an issue (if a player always takes the same color of bag, that's their decision, and may even be used as a deception tactic)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;even though the distribution is secret, all players can prove that they got out of the action what they should have, as until they move their loot back to their own goods, it will be united with the card that describes what should have been done&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;bags will be anonymous only until their contents are verified, so this is only useful at all if the cards you are able to play include choices, such as &lt;em&gt;&quot;Put 4 Gold Pieces in this bag, or discard a Crew Mate!&quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You might be thinking that just like selecting the bag color secret from the target player, taking it back in secret would work just the same to make the whole process anonymous. Depending on your game, this may or may not be possible, but here are the issues I see with that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it's much easier to handle the verification of bag contents when you don't have to hide it from a player, because if you do, chances are you won't be able to prove that you didn't modify the bag's contents until you show it&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;if you do have any objections about a bag's contents, you would have to reveal yourself either way. This could be an incentive for the targetted player to intentionally provide the wrong contents in order to find out who played a certain card (which could be a game mechanic on it's own, as that player possibly doesn't even want to reveal themselves, so the target player might get away with it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;excluding a player from gameplay is always fickle, so you would want to minimize the time that has to happen. Choosing a bag takes a few seconds at the most in a sensible play group, but opening bags, verifying contents, adding those contents to your stock in a way that doesn't make it obvious you just gained a pile of dubloons, then making sure everyone else is done as well and finally notifying the targetted player that they may continue participating in the game again sounds like it would take too much time. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, sorry for giving this a bit more of a pirate theme than I probably should have...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T15:17:09.373" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32649" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32646" CreationDate="2016-10-04T15:18:19.140" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your best option is going to be to buy sleeves for your deck, just make sure that they are completely opaque since with some sleeves you can still see a little bit of the background of the card. Sleeves will not only prevent your card from being considered marked, it will also help protect your deck from getting damaged as much. Some of the most popular brands are &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.ultrapro.com/product_list.php?cPath=70_150&amp;amp;osCsid=957319246dbb352555d1b916f5171410&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Ultra-Pro&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a href=&quot;http://kmcsleeves.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;KMC&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arcanetinmen.dk/products/dragon-shield-sleeves-standard-size-100-ct&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Dragon Shield&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your other ideas you can try talking to your local game shop and see if they are willing to exchange it, or Wizards of the Coast customer service, but I wouldn't expect either of them to do anything. For misprint collectors I do not believe this sort of error is the kind they look for, Starcity Games has an &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.starcitygames.com/magic/finance/25176-Misprints.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;article&lt;/a&gt; about valuable misprints. As for filling it in yourself, unless you are an amazing artist there is no way you would be able to fill it in without it still being noticable so I wouldn't both trying that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_30sep16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Magic Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3.11 Marked Cards&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  Players are responsible for ensuring that their cards and/or card sleeves are not marked during the course of the&#xA;  tournament. A card or sleeve is considered marked if it bears something that makes it possible to identify the card&#xA;  without seeing its face, including (but not limited to) scratches, discoloration, and bends.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player’s cards are sleeved, the cards must be examined while in the sleeves to determine if they are marked. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T15:18:19.140" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32650" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32633" CreationDate="2016-10-04T15:28:27.943" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'll illustrate with a five-player example.  It is player A's turn.  Based on my reading, I am assuming the following things.  Are these assumptions correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players B, C, D and E each play a card face down and give it to player A.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All cards are played simultaneously.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A does not know which player played which card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Some cards may cause player A to lose resources to another player.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the above are true, use the following arrangement and turn workflow.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Setup / components&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player has a screen behind which they can keep their resources available for easy access, but hidden from others.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The game board will contain a number of spaces for playing cards face down. These places will be labeled with numbers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resources are the same size and shape, even for different denominations. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A number of opaque bags (with drawstrings for easy and quiet opening and closing) are available&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Turn flow&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player A looks away from the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Players B, C, D, and E, each plays a card on one of the available spots on the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once all cards are played, the player to A's left tells A that they have finished.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A looks back at the board.  A takes 1 card, reads it, and fills a bag with the required resources from behind his screen.  If the card does not cause a resource transfer, player A places a 0-resource token in the bag.  A replaces the bag where the card was.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A repeats the above step for each card.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A looks away from the board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player takes the bag from the spot where they placed their card, and claims the resources from it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Once all cards are played, the player to A's left tells A that they have finished.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T15:28:27.943" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32651" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32630" CreationDate="2016-10-04T16:22:23.560" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;We can accomplish your goal without using any unusual terminology:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{T}, Reveal a creature card from your hand and pay its mana cost reduced by {X}: Put the revealed card into play under your control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does this work?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you begin to activate the ability, you reveal a creature card and you also choose a value for {X}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;107.3a If a spell or activated ability has a mana cost, alternative cost, additional cost, and/or activation cost with an {X}, [-X], or X in it, and the value of X isn’t defined by the text of that spell or ability, the controller of that spell or ability chooses and announces the value of X as part of casting the spell or activating the ability. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, you pay the cost of creature card reduced by the value chosen for {X}. This only affects the generic part of the cost, and not the colored part.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;117.7a Effects that reduce a cost by an amount of generic mana affect only the generic mana component of that cost. They can’t affect the colored or colorless mana components of that cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are left paying the non-generic part of the cost. This will usually* be the colored part of the cost. Also, you could technically choose a small enough value for X that you end up paying part of the generic cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;*A small handful of cards have actual colorless mana in the cost. The colorless part of the cost would not be reduced.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T16:35:56.440" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T16:35:56.440" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32652" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32603" CreationDate="2016-10-04T17:44:52.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Fortified sites are the only spaces that require you to withdraw to the space you attacked from when you lose.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On page 9 of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://wizkidsgames.com/wp-content/uploads/mage/MK_rulebook_ENG_searchable-mar2012.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, under section 3 of &lt;em&gt;Combat Outcomes&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;d. If you failed to defeat all the defenders of a fortified site, you have to withdraw back to the space you were attacking from.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules regarding ruins and monster dens are different. The &lt;em&gt;Combat Outcomes&lt;/em&gt; section mentions leaving any revealed enemies on the space, but doesn't explicitly mention having to withdraw. We can use some sections from other parts of the rulebook to clarify. On page 6, section 4 under &lt;em&gt;Movement&lt;/em&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;d. Entering a space with an adventure site (ruins, monster den, spawning grounds, dungeons or tombs) does not necessarily end your movement; &lt;strong&gt;you may ignore it and treat it as an empty space, even if there are enemy tokens&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And on page 7, under section 1 of &lt;em&gt;Combat with Enemies&lt;/em&gt; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;b. If you are at an adventure site containing enemies (dungeon or tomb, unconquered monster den or spawning grounds, or ruins with enemies), &lt;strong&gt;you may announce that you are entering the site as your action.&lt;/strong&gt; This initiates combat with all enemies in the site.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given these conditions, these spaces are treated as safe spaces (page 6; rule 7d) and don't require a player to withdraw after a loss. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The main purpose of moving back to the attacking space when losing to a fortified enemy is to ensure that Forced Withdraw rules (page 9; rule 2) don't apply immediately. It prevents players from having to take additional wounds when they've already lost and likely taken wounds. This isn't a concern with adventure sites because they are already considered safe spaces.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T17:53:38.923" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T17:53:38.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32653" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-04T18:34:54.537" Score="5" ViewCount="2717" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAncestral%20Vision%5d&quot;&gt;Ancestral Vision&lt;/a&gt; is an example of a card with a total absence of any casting cost: you can't cast it the ordinary way. In this case, you have to cast it using its Suspend ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnR6D.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/rnR6D.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've just found that I have &lt;em&gt;no idea&lt;/em&gt; how to search for these cards in Gatherer or in MagicCards.info. I can search for cards with a mana cost or converted mana cost of 0, but that also gets me cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAccorder%27s%5d%2b%5bShield%5d&quot;&gt;Accorder&amp;#39;s Shield&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How can I search up cards &lt;em&gt;with no mana cost&lt;/em&gt; in either Gatherer or MagicCards.info?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lands are also in this category &amp;mdash; it's fine if this search turns lands up as well; I can exclude those by their type easily enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T12:31:45.480" Title="How do I search for cards without a casting cost (excluding {0})?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32654" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-04T18:36:22.567" Score="0" ViewCount="3022" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm the farthest thing from a magic know it all, so I have a question for you. If my opponent has a 40/40 with trample and I have a 20/20 with lifelink that is blocking it. and I have 20 life left. Do I gain life from lifelink at the same time the damage is dealt to me? Thanks for taking the time to answer!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18577" LastEditorUserId="18577" LastEditDate="2016-10-04T18:43:48.777" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T18:48:06.863" Title="MTG Lifelink Before Death?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-multiplayer|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-10-04T19:43:06.267" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32655" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32654" CreationDate="2016-10-04T18:43:43.430" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, lifelink is not a triggered ability like you might expect but a static replacement effect that replaces damage being dealt with the damage being dealt and you gaining that much life:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;119.3f Damage dealt by a source with lifelink causes that source’s controller to gain that much life, in addition to the damage’s other results.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.15a Lifelink is a static ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is not the case with cards that say &amp;quot;Whenever this card deals damage, you gain that much life&amp;quot;; that would be a triggered ability, and you would lose before it could resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T18:48:06.863" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32656" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32653" CreationDate="2016-10-04T19:01:17.917" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can search for cards that have a CMC of 0 but don't have a mana cost of 0 or that contains X. &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;cmc=+=[0]&amp;amp;mana=+!=[0]+!=[X]+!=[XX]+!=[XXX]&amp;amp;type=+![land]&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt; is an example on Gatherer. Many of them are transform cards or tokens.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastActivityDate="2016-10-04T19:01:17.917" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32657" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32660" CreationDate="2016-10-05T06:16:30.170" Score="2" ViewCount="690" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't really recall what is this board / card game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am not sure is it a werewolf, vampire, some other social deduction game, or it's a different one from what I have mentioned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each character card will have an ultimate skill. In order to use the skill, you need to reveal your role card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Anyone can figure out what is this game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sorry for the small amount of details.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18581" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T11:18:45.070" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T22:08:19.860" Title="A card game that has an ultimate skill for each character" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32659" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32653" CreationDate="2016-10-05T12:08:51.087" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can actually directly search for all cards without a mana cost (or, more specifically, an empty mana cost) like this [&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;mana=+=[]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;direct link&lt;/a&gt;]:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;mana=+=[]&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can be input directly in the Advanced Search by submitting &lt;code&gt;Mana Cost&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;and&lt;/code&gt; &lt;code&gt;=&lt;/code&gt;, without adding any value to the field.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;mana=+=[]&amp;amp;type=+![&amp;quot;Land&amp;quot;]+![&amp;quot;Token&amp;quot;]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This query also excludes lands and some tokens&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As far as I can see, there's no simple way to exclude the back faces of cards without excluding entire editions they appear in, or excluding their names one by one. The only data-wise unique qualifier is that the collector number contains &lt;code&gt;b&lt;/code&gt;, however Gatherer doesn't seem to offer a search query for the collector number.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-10-05T12:31:45.480" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T12:31:45.480" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32660" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32657" CreationDate="2016-10-05T13:38:57.133" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sounds to me like you are thinking of &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/24068/shadow-hunters&quot;&gt;Shadow Hunters&lt;/a&gt;. Its got some social deduction aspects to it, and each player has a special ability that they can use by revealing who they are.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T13:38:57.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32662" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32433" CreationDate="2016-10-05T15:04:50.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You must STOP in order to trigger a mine, and the Engine Room can't have a breakdown for the &lt;em&gt;MINE + TORPEDO&lt;/em&gt; system.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1630118/designer-answer-system-usage-and-mine-detonation-q&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;This thread&lt;/a&gt; over on BGG relays information from the designers. In order to detonate a mine, the Engineer needs weapon systems online:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;And to detonate a mine you also need to have ALL the red &quot;lights&quot; clear in the Engine room&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last line also clarifies that a STOP needs to occur during detonation:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;With these answers, I think a good way to describe the rules is that each team is only allowed 1 STOP (either system activation or mine detonation) between movements.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T15:04:50.940" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32664" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32657" CreationDate="2016-10-05T22:08:19.860" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Perhaps it's &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citadels_(card_game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Citadels&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each turn, players get to pick their role cards from a deck of 8 or 9, the King calls each character (Assassin, Mage, King, Priest ...) forward in a fixed order and in your turn, the chosen character card grants certain abilities and advantages. Some of these characters have a color that can correspond to the color of buildings you own, generating extra income.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During one turn, depending on the number of players, you could get to pick two characters and effectively have two turns-in-one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-10-05T22:08:19.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32665" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32666" CreationDate="2016-10-06T14:07:34.610" Score="7" ViewCount="1186" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSelvala%2c%20Explorer%20Returned%5d&quot;&gt;Selvala, Explorer Returned&lt;/a&gt;'s ability is very similar to the ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharmed%20Pendant%5d&quot;&gt;Charmed Pendant&lt;/a&gt;, so I don't understand why the latter has an instant speed restriction and Selvala does not. I'm looking for insight into this difference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the history of Magic, there are three cards with abilities that have the clause &quot;Activate this ability only at any time you could cast an instant&quot; (more when you include times when it's in reminder text, but I do not). In all three cases, the ability is a mana ability, as that's the only thing with less timing restrictions than an instant (as you can activate it while casting a spell). These three cards are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLion%27s%5d%2b%5bEye%5d%2b%5bDiamond%5d&quot;&gt;Lion&amp;#39;s Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRhystic%20Cave%5d&quot;&gt;Rhystic Cave&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharmed%20Pendant%5d&quot;&gt;Charmed Pendant&lt;/a&gt;. For LED, this is to stop people from dumping their hand after the spell is already on the stack. For Rhystic Cave, one could attempt to cast a spell, then revert game state if an opponent pays to stop the Cave, and try again forever. Both these cases are fine and I include them mostly for completeness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Charmed Pendant mills a card, then gives you mana based off that card. Selvala makes everyone reveal cards (and draw), then gives you mana based off those cards. These abilities seem very analogous, yet Selvala can be activated mid-cast and Charmed Pendant cannot. Why is this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T15:34:46.257" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T15:52:14.497" Title="Why isn't Selvala, Explorer Returned's ability restricted from being used as a mana ability?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|game-design|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32666" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32665" CreationDate="2016-10-06T14:41:14.010" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules about ability speeds were standardized with the 6th edition. No more mention of speed was necessary on the cards after that. Some older cards were rewritten, some weren't. The 10/4/2004 ruling makes it clear that this wasn't an oversight (as the ability, despite being a mana ability, changes the board's state, while Selvala's doesn't - I'm guessing).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14567" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T14:41:14.010" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32667" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32613" CreationDate="2016-10-06T15:02:54.650" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you may. Using your chips in the manner you describe is your choice of payment. Just because you have development cards does not mean you cannot pay in gem chips. Indeed, at times it is a strategic choice to pay out your chips to make room for other gems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18600" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T15:02:54.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32668" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32669" CreationDate="2016-10-06T18:14:29.663" Score="15" ViewCount="894" Body="&lt;p&gt;The game was played with a whole bunch of cards with historical events on them. Each event had two versions, one on each side of the card, and you could travel through time turning cards over to representing altering the past, in order to achieve some goal given to you at the beginning. Certain events contradicted each other, however, and when they both existed this created a paradox. If enough paradoxes occurred the timeline would explode and everyone lost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can anyone identify this game for me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T18:29:50.707" Title="Identify: time travelling game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32669" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32668" CreationDate="2016-10-06T18:29:50.707" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;This sounds like &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/games/chrononauts&quot;&gt;Chrononauts&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the official description:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would YOU do with a Time Machine? Would you stop the sinking of the Titanic? Prevent the assassination of JFK? Kill Hitler before WWII? These are just a few of the possibilities in Chrononauts, the award-winning card game of time travel. To win, you must change history at key points called Linchpins, so that history transforms into the Alternate Reality your character calls home. You can also win by collecting a specific set of Artifacts, such as a live dinosaur, the Mona Lisa, and an unpublished Shakespearean play. But be careful - &lt;strong&gt;if you create too many paradoxes, you could destroy the entire universe&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15977" LastActivityDate="2016-10-06T18:29:50.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32670" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-06T20:01:10.840" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;En Garde!&lt;/em&gt; is a simulation board game involving the sort of situations found in Errol Flynn movies, including fencing. This is about the GDW board game published in 1975. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Not to be confused with the games with the same name published in 1993 by Eagle-Gryphon Games or 2005 by SlugFest Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/7771/en-garde&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T00:14:46.377" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T00:14:46.377" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32671" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-06T20:01:10.840" Score="0" Body="A simulation board game involving the sort of situations found in Errol Flynn movies, including fencing. This is about the GDW board game published in 1975. Not to be confused with the games with the same name published in 1993 by Eagle-Gryphon Games or 2005 by SlugFest Games." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-07T00:14:41.443" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T00:14:41.443" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32672" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32711" CreationDate="2016-10-06T20:42:14.810" Score="9" ViewCount="219" Body="&lt;p&gt;Adam's ID ability is, &quot;You start the game with 3 different directive cards installed (these cards are not considered part of your deck).&quot; Now (since Escalation) that there are more than 3 options for Directives to install, when does the Runner choose which ones to use, especially in a tournament situation? Must it be consistent between games? Can it be done after seeing the Corp ID?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T23:13:18.830" Title="When does Adam choose and install Directives?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32673" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="1463" CreationDate="2016-10-07T01:55:53.610" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Coming in late.  Used to play K-S and loved it, except never found a way to beat a very slight hesitation from LHO after 1NT is opened.  When bidding is passed around, his partner can balance or double with crap because of the hesitation.  Yes, it's cheating, but there's no defense to it.  Hesitation isn't long enough to call the director.  This happened to us so often and was so aggravating that we switched to 2/1.  I wrote to the ACBL and suggested you should be able to say, &quot;I'm going to open a weak NT, please wait.&quot;  They didn't answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18603" LastActivityDate="2016-10-07T01:55:53.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32675" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32676" CreationDate="2016-10-08T03:48:24.350" Score="5" ViewCount="971" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I steal from another player with only one card, if they challenge me and lose (or if they try to block and I challenge them and they lose), they are now out of the game.  According to a strict interpretation of the rules, they now have to return all their money to the pool and it seems like this would happen BEFORE the steal completes which means I now no longer get the money.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But when I play with friends we generally assume the captain gets the 2 coins and the rest is returned to the pool.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which is correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T08:30:41.287" Title="Can a captain take money from someone who died blocking or challenging it?" Tags="|coup|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32676" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32675" CreationDate="2016-10-08T08:50:11.197" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;I checked russian rules and under &quot;challenges&quot; section it mentions that if an action is successful, it resolves. Also, there is an example of play with exactly this situation (player, who being stolen from, unsuccessfully tries to defend and is out of the game) and it explicitly says that captain still gets 2 coins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="16237" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T08:30:41.287" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T08:30:41.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32677" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32679" CreationDate="2016-10-08T08:53:54.323" Score="1" ViewCount="325" Body="&lt;p&gt;Thumbs up option of the crossroad card (&quot;Old divisions&quot;) says: Remove 1 helpless survivor&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no helpless survivors at the colony right now.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can we choose the thumbs up option in this case or do we have to choose the thumbs down option?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6391" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T13:32:39.837" Title="Can I choose that crossroad option?" Tags="|dead-of-winter|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32678" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32680" CreationDate="2016-10-08T13:26:19.523" Score="2" ViewCount="1592" Body="&lt;p&gt;We were playing &lt;em&gt;A Game of Thrones&lt;/em&gt;, 2 ed, by FFG last weekend. One table was using the Battle Tide cards. This situation occurred:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking force of one unit won the battle &lt;em&gt;but&lt;/em&gt; defender drew a Battle Tide card with a skull, meaning the attacking unit is killed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What happens with the region? Does the defender lose control of it? Does the attacker gain control of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18612" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T19:51:05.480" Title="AGoT: Attacking and winning unit dies" Tags="|game-of-thrones|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32679" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32677" CreationDate="2016-10-08T13:32:39.837" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state (p. 12):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If a player is unable to meet the conditions of an option on a crossroads card, she must choose the other option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you have to pick the other option.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18612" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T13:32:39.837" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32680" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32678" CreationDate="2016-10-08T19:02:01.567" Score="3" Body="&lt;h2&gt;tl;dr&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What happens with the region?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's empty.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the defender lose control of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does the attacker gain control of it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The long version&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Combat resolution is done in four steps, completed in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Determine Victor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Casualties&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Retreat and Routing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Combat Clean Up&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Steps 1 and 2, you don't appear to have an issue with: You know who the victor is, and you know how many casualties there will be for both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 3 (&lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/VA65_AGoT2_Rulebook_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;page 21&lt;/a&gt;) says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After suffering casualties, &lt;strong&gt;the losing army&lt;/strong&gt; must retreat from&#xA;  the embattled area (supporting units do not retreat.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;the losing army&quot; is the important part here; you've already determined the victor (and thus also the loser) in Step 1, which means casualties or not you already know exactly who &quot;the losing army&quot; &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt;. They &lt;em&gt;must&lt;/em&gt; retreat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is emphasised in the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/agot-bg-2nd-ed/support/faq/VA65_AGoT2_FAQ_v1_4.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;errata&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: After winning a combat, if a player would&#xA;  suffer casualties that would eliminate all of his units&#xA;  in the embattled area, does the loser of the combat still&#xA;  have to retreat?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: Yes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step 4, Combat Clean-Up, then goes on to state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;If the combat was won by the attacker&lt;/strong&gt;, remove any Order token the&#xA;  defender had assigned to the embattled area (if one remains) &lt;strong&gt;as well&#xA;  as any Power token in the area&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, the wording is clear &quot;If the combat was won by the attacker&quot; (Step 1). So in addition to retreating, the defending (losing) army also needs to remove their Power token in the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Therefore, the answer to your &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt; question &quot;Does the defender lose control of it?&quot; seems to be an unambiguous &quot;Yes&quot;. Without an army or a Power token, the defender no longer has any means to control the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Which brings us to the &lt;em&gt;second&lt;/em&gt; question: &quot;Does the attacker gain control of it?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules, I'd have to say &quot;No&quot;. From &quot;Controlling Areas&quot; (page 24):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A House is said to control a land area &lt;strong&gt;when it has at least one&#xA;  Footman, Knight, or Siege Engine in the area&lt;/strong&gt;, or has &lt;strong&gt;previously&#xA;  established control&lt;/strong&gt; in that area by placing a Power token there&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If all your units are dead, you obviously don't meet the first criteria. So the question is, can you have &quot;previously established control&quot;? Further down the same page:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A player may only establish control when vacating&#xA;  an area with a March Order.&lt;/strong&gt; Events that would leave an area&#xA;  vacant (such as negative effects from a Wildling victory) does not&#xA;  permit a player to establish control after the last unit is destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You never actually &lt;em&gt;vacated&lt;/em&gt; the area: Your units died before they ever had a chance to gain control in the first place (Step 2 of combat resolution (Casualties) happens &lt;em&gt;before&lt;/em&gt; both Step 3 where the loser retreats and Step 4 where the loser removes his Power tokens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Again, this is emphasised in the Errata:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Q: At what point does the winner of a combat&#xA;  exert control over the embattled area?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;  A: Control over an area does not change hands&#xA;  until all stages of combat are completed. In the case&#xA;  of a completely emptied area, &lt;strong&gt;at no point of time&#xA;  during the combat would the area be considered&#xA;  controlled by the attacker&lt;/strong&gt; (and so would not count&#xA;  towards his victory condition).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And like before, with neither army nor Power tokens in the area, you the attacker &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; have no means to exert control over the area.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;Of note, in the reverse situation (i.e. the &lt;em&gt;defender&lt;/em&gt; wins but loses all units), the attacker would still be forced to retreat in Step 3 but the defender &lt;em&gt;could&lt;/em&gt; still retain control over the territory if he'd previously placed a Power token, since &lt;em&gt;that&lt;/em&gt; wouldn't be lost in Step 4 if he's the victor.&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2016-10-08T19:51:05.480" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T19:51:05.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32681" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32684" CreationDate="2016-10-08T22:01:07.877" Score="2" ViewCount="802" Body="&lt;p&gt;In &lt;em&gt;Munchkin&lt;/em&gt;, what is the effect of Annihilation card when played in combat with multiple monsters, targeting a monster that is not the last played card? Will its power still count for combat resolution?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ds6Hk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/ds6Hk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;annihilation: play this card at any time to permanently remove any one card from the game. it does not go to the discard pile... put it back in the box and forget it. the target card must be in play when you use Annihilation on it. if an opponent had *just* played it, it is canceled and has no effect.&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. is there a centralised resource with card explanations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18615" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2018-05-12T17:19:34.590" LastActivityDate="2018-05-12T17:19:34.590" Title="What happens when Annihilation is played in combat on a monster that is not the last played card?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32683" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33389" CreationDate="2016-10-08T22:44:49.670" Score="1" ViewCount="269" Body="&lt;p&gt;Defeated keeps increase the hand size by 1 for each keep owned when you end your turn adjacent or in a keep. Does it also increase the hand size for allies in the coop games?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If not, is there some coop situation where an ally's hand size is increased? I feel like I've read a ruling on this but can't find any documentation. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-12-15T01:22:05.200" Title="Do defeated keeps increase the hand size for allies?" Tags="|mage-knight|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32684" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32681" CreationDate="2016-10-08T23:05:46.867" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you target any monster in a multi monster combat situation that monster will be removed from the game. Since it was removed from the game it will no longer have any impact on the combat that is taking place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-10-08T23:05:46.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32685" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T03:55:55.667" Score="-1" ViewCount="164" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an example, assume I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrizzly%20Bear%5d&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bear&lt;/a&gt; in play with two enchantments on it: &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDragon%20Breath%5d&quot;&gt;Dragon Breath&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDizzying%20Gaze%5d&quot;&gt;Dizzying Gaze&lt;/a&gt;. Both of these enchantments grant my Grizzly Bear an ability that I can activate by paying {R}.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I pay {R}, do I activate both abilities at once?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18617" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T13:37:23.560" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T22:31:34.273" Title="Activating abilites of enchantments" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-10-11T03:37:23.910" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32686" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32687" CreationDate="2016-10-09T04:36:21.467" Score="4" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKorozda%20Monitor%5d&quot;&gt;Korozda Monitor&lt;/a&gt; reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Scavenge {5}{G}{G} &lt;em&gt;({5}{G}{G}, Exile this card from your graveyard: Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to this card's power on target creature. Scavenge only as a sorcery.)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to know why the 5(G)(G) is listed twice, outside of the parentheses and inside. I've seen this format on other cards too. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18549" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T11:22:24.340" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T11:22:24.340" Title="Why does this ability have its mana cost written twice?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32687" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32686" CreationDate="2016-10-09T04:43:35.683" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's written like that because that's what the ability means; &quot;Scavenge [cost]&quot; means &quot;[Cost], Exile this card from your graveyard: Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to this card's power on target creature. Scavenge only as a sorcery.&quot;. The italic text in parentheses is called &lt;em&gt;reminder text&lt;/em&gt;, and it's there in this case to tell you what scavenge does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T04:55:32.917" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T04:55:32.917" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32688" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T10:29:59.383" Score="9" ViewCount="1898" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can anyone tell me what this game is called and how it is played? It's a small square board with 37 holes, 10 black pegs and 10 white pegs in opposite diagonal corners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nVxln.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/nVxln.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18622" LastEditorUserId="18622" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T04:38:08.127" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T04:38:08.127" Title="Game with 37 diagonally-oriented holes, 10 black pegs and 10 white pegs" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32689" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32685" CreationDate="2016-10-09T10:45:58.637" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Short answer: You only activate 1 by paying 1 red mana&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long answer: let's first clear up your vocabulary a little. From your original question, it's unclear if you want to play both enchantments from your hand onto the Grizzly Bear for {R}, or if you want to use the abilities listed on the enchantments. Do you realise enchantments are what we call 'permanents'? Once played, they remain in play until they are destroyed, returned to your hand or, in the case of creature enchantments, the creature they are bound to disappears. You only pay the casting cost when you put an enchantment in play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once the enchantments are in play, they grant additional abilities to the creature they are enchanting. In order to use such an ability, you&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;declare you want to use an ability (for instance, the 'deals 1 damage to target creature with flying' ability on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDizzying%20Gaze%5d&quot;&gt;Dizzying Gaze&lt;/a&gt;)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pay the cost, choose a target&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Resolve the ability (and perhaps others that were placed on the stack as a reaction to this).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you can see, all of the above is for one of the extra abilities that your creature has, now that it is enchanted. Same goes for the other ability. When you pay {R}, it is always for one activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T10:45:58.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32690" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32691" CreationDate="2016-10-09T10:46:38.160" Score="5" ViewCount="7253" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Munchkin you can sell items which amount to not less than 1000 gold pieces or multiples, in exchange for levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am I right that &lt;em&gt;selling&lt;/em&gt; is &lt;strong&gt;a form of discarding&lt;/strong&gt;, that is you are &quot;selling&quot; to the &quot;discard pile&quot; of the Treasure deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14949" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T11:35:16.743" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T11:35:16.743" Title="Where (or to whom) do sold items go?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32691" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32690" CreationDate="2016-10-09T11:00:51.987" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Selling is a form of discarding&lt;/strong&gt;, as emphasized by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/#cards&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;World of Munchkin FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (part of the &amp;quot;The rules say that cards in play must be traded or discarded. When can I discard them?&amp;quot; question). Sold items would go to the respective discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For completeness' sake, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt; have the following to say about selling items in general, also mentioning that selling items is discarding them:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Selling Items for Levels:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At  any  point  during  your  turn  except during combat or Running Away, you may discard Items worth a total of at least 1,000 Gold Pieces and immediately go up one level. (&amp;quot;No Value&amp;quot;  cards  are  the  same  as  zero  Gold  Pieces.)  If  you  discard  (for instance) 1,100 Gold Pieces worth, you don't get change. But if you can manage 2,000 worth, you can go up two levels at once, and so on. You may sell Items from your hand as well as those you are carrying. You may not sell Items to go to Level 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T11:00:51.987" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32692" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T13:59:26.220" Score="1" ViewCount="168" Body="&lt;p&gt;I don't really draft at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My general question: In the scope of new sets (non-supplemental), what are generally good cards to draft?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifics:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What P/T is good for a beater of X CMC? How many would I want/need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What P/T is good for an evasion creature of X CMC? How many would I want/need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What CMC is good for spot removal? How many would I want/need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What CMC is good for burn spells of X damage? How many would I want/need?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What P/T and abilities/ability words are good for a bomb of X CMC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What kind of card draw/tutors are good at X CMC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-What kind of disruption (counters, discard, combat tricks) is good at X CMC?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-How much mana should I be spending on different kinds of 2-for-1's? (ETB with removal/disruption, token generation, etc.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Of 2 or more optimal/preferred cards, which is the better pick?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;-Is the BREAD strategy (&quot;Bombs, Removal, Evasion, Advantage, Dudes&quot; prioritized in that order) viable?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I realize that each cycle and block has different results for each of these questions. Feel free to use examples from any block with supporting pools as to why X card helps Y card. I love specific card references.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T13:59:26.220" Title="Draft Defaults: Common Baseline Stats" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|deck-building|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-09T15:34:26.593" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32693" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14211" CreationDate="2016-10-09T17:11:33.263" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, it is important to your strategy what start world you get, but it doesn't dictate it. For example, if you get Old Earth, it makes it easier to start a Trade or Production strategy, but depending on what cards you get, you can do something that isn't connected to your start world at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18626" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T17:11:33.263" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32694" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32695" CreationDate="2016-10-09T18:08:41.230" Score="4" ViewCount="399" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bErebos%2c%20God%20of%20the%20Dead%5d&quot;&gt;Erebos, God of the Dead&lt;/a&gt; is indestructible. Someone tould me that if i have more than five for my devotion that the indestructible comes off. Is that true?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18627" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T18:13:23.520" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T18:13:23.520" Title="Does Erebos lose indestructible when he becomes a creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32695" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32694" CreationDate="2016-10-09T18:12:49.183" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Erebos remains indestructible, even as a creature.  Indestructible can apply to any permanents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T18:12:49.183" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32696" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T18:54:13.723" Score="-1" ViewCount="2058" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was wondering if you can have more than one god card in your deck. Can I? Can they be different colors?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18627" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T20:21:10.020" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T21:45:06.540" Title="Can you have more than one god card in a deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32697" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T19:18:23.597" Score="0" ViewCount="24671" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing UNO in the end only two players were left.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Player 1 had five cards and player 2 had two cards (both of them a 'Draw 2').  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 puts down the first 'Draw 2' card, and calls UNO.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 stacks on it a 'Draw 2' card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 puts down his last card that is a 'Draw 2'. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 again stacks on it a 'Draw 2' card. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does that last 'Draw 2' apply to player 2 or has he won?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18628" LastEditorUserId="26105" LastEditDate="2020-03-02T04:03:21.210" LastActivityDate="2020-03-02T04:03:21.210" Title="In UNO with card stacking rules, can you stack the opponents final card?" Tags="|house-rules|uno|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32698" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32696" CreationDate="2016-10-09T19:33:54.163" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;God&quot; is a creature type just like any other, e.g. &quot;Elf&quot;. No rule limits the amount of creatures of the same type you can have in your deck, and no rule limits you to only one color god.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only limit regarding &quot;N cards of a certain quality&quot; care about the card name, where most formats limit you to 4 cards of the same name, unless they're restricted/banned. None of the cards with the creature type &quot;God&quot; are, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Gods are also (currently, not generally) legendary creatures, which means you may only control one god of each name on the battlefield at the same time (e.g. you can control an Erebos and a Nylea, but not two Ereboses). That's because of the legendary rule, which means if you ever control two Legendary cards with the same name at the same time, you have to put all but one of them into your graveyard. This is what I suppose makes you ask this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-09T21:45:06.540" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T21:45:06.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32699" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32697" CreationDate="2016-10-09T19:52:10.953" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since you are playing with (at least) two house rules that drastically change the game your question could be answered many ways. However since in the basic rules the game ends as soon as someone is out of cards I would say that in this case as soon as a player plays the last card they are removed from the game. Since there was only two players left that would end the game completely. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-10-09T19:52:10.953" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32700" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-09T22:54:21.887" Score="3" ViewCount="4254" Body="&lt;p&gt;If a melded creature like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrisela%2c%20Voice%20of%20Nightmares%5d&quot;&gt;Brisela, Voice of Nightmares&lt;/a&gt; dies, does it go to the graveyard as a single, melded creature, or does it split apart? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the whole creature be brought back to the battlefield (or to my hand), or just 1 of the 2 parts? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do both halves of Brisela have to be regenerated separately?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18630" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2022-11-13T14:39:53.227" LastActivityDate="2022-11-13T14:39:53.227" Title="Does a melded creature remain melded when it leaves the battlefield?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-meld|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32702" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32688" CreationDate="2016-10-10T08:57:10.353" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Konane&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Konane&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdF9c.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/QdF9c.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Imagine of Konane&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's 6x6, 36 holes. And the game doesn't start with all pieces in the corners. But I'm assuming that, if you don't know the name of the game, you also don't know exactly what the rules are and are simply describing how the board has currently been arranged by someone?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8125" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T08:57:10.353" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32703" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32688" CreationDate="2016-10-10T10:02:23.003" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;It appears to me that the board you have is a visually stylized version of &lt;strong&gt;Two-Player Chinese Checkers&lt;/strong&gt;. Unlike the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_checkers&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;regular, 6-player version&lt;/a&gt;, the two-player variant utilizes an alternative, smaller board (but can also be played on the regular layout) that could look like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSiGk.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/qSiGk.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 1&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While this is the variant I'm familiar with, a quick search also returned this board, which (although presented in a drastically different layout and with a different number of pieces) is used for the same game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KfYm7.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/KfYm7.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 2&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This looks much more familiar to your image, and is equally less diamond-shaped, but still adheres to the basic four-corner principle. Not all variants do, however, like the following one that cuts the sideways corners (which to me seems more true to the 6-player variant):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkUP0.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gkUP0.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;image 3&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last image is identical to your board, with the exception of the outermost rows of three holes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My guess is that there's a wide variety of two-player Chinese Checkers boards out there, made by people who tried to compress the &quot;original&quot; game down in size to accomodate for the reduced player count. I would put your board in the very same category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T10:02:23.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32704" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32718" CreationDate="2016-10-10T15:32:12.480" Score="11" ViewCount="74467" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing Uno this weekend, one of the players played a Wild+4 but chose the same color that was in play (this led to a successful challenge). I had thought that, regardless of what's in the player's hand, the player could not choose the same color after playing a Wild+4 - it had to change to one of the other 3 colors. A player could choose the same color after playing a regular Wild, though. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking at the rules, though, I did not see this restriction; only that the player playing the Wild+4 must not have any cards of the same color in play. Given that my Uno deck is a fairly recent version, I'm wondering if older versions did have that rule? Or maybe it was just a house rule. If so, is that a common house rule? Or maybe it just stemmed from the need to not have the current color in your hand...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17879" LastEditorUserId="17879" LastEditDate="2022-12-05T16:42:55.967" LastActivityDate="2022-12-05T16:42:55.967" Title="Choosing same color after Wild (+4) Draw 4" Tags="|house-rules|uno|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32705" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T15:36:37.243" Score="1" ViewCount="2124" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game of euchre, the deck consists of the nine, ten, jack, queen, king and ace of each suit. Players are dealt a five card hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the probability that a player is dealt 3 kings in that hand of five cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18636" LastEditorUserId="15436" LastEditDate="2017-12-24T03:30:12.393" LastActivityDate="2017-12-24T03:59:49.407" Title="What is the probability that a player is dealt 3 kings in a single euchre hand?" Tags="|probability|euchre|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32706" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-10T15:43:09.467" Score="2" ViewCount="870" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for the name of a card game I played as a kid, but do not remember it's name.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found it in a Donald Duck book about the scouts (that I remember)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It was played as a solitaire game with 1 deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You put out 6(or 8?) cards open on the table, hold the others closed in&#xA;your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You keep adding cards till you can do the check and till you left with no cards in you hands. With a bad shuffle you end op with a lot of cards on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you check if card 1 and card 3 are the same suit or the same number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this the case, put card 2 on top op card 1 and go back to step 1&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Are the not the same, check card 2 and 4 and check if they have the&#xA;same suit or number.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In this case, put card 3 on top of car 2 and go back to step 2.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have no cards on table to match add 1 card from you hand.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The games finished when all cards are distributed on the table.&#xA;You win if there are only two piles left. On the left all cards, on the&#xA;right one card.&#xA;Can anyone tell me the name of the game?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18637" LastEditorUserId="18637" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T12:53:51.080" LastActivityDate="2017-02-09T20:25:32.420" Title="What is the name of this solitaire game?" Tags="|identify-this-game|solitaire|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32707" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32705" CreationDate="2016-10-10T16:00:44.267" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a hypergeometric distribution problem.  Luckily, calculators exist that let you just plug in the numbers and get an answer.  I used &lt;a href=&quot;http://stattrek.com/online-calculator/hypergeometric.aspx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this one&lt;/a&gt; with&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Population size = 24 (the size of the deck)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of successes in population = 4 (the total number of kings)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sample size = 5 (the number of cards in your hand)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Number of successes in sample = 3 (the number of kings you are interested in)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The results show that the chances of getting exactly 3 kings is 1.79%.  If you also include hands with 4 kings, it goes up to 1.84%.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="178" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T16:00:44.267" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32708" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32697" CreationDate="2016-10-10T19:37:27.240" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have played with this house rule in our gaming group before and we resolved it in the same way we resolve MTG (Magic the Gathering) chains and that is the action must resolve upon the final valid play. So, if you are playing with the chain draw 2 house rule, in your scenario where there are two players remaining, the player who is unable to add another draw 2 into the chain is the one who gets stuck drawing as many cards as are in the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If this results in one of the two players going out, that player wins. Otherwise, they draw more cards and the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &quot;As soon as one player goes out&quot; rule as it was originally written for Uno did not take into effect this &quot;chain stacking&quot; house rule. In order to be the most correct, it must be interpreted to mean &quot;As soon as one player goes out at the end of a play&quot;. In this case, the draw 2 chain is considered a single play as the draw 2 chain only stops (resolves) on the player that cannot place a draw 2 on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As a final note, we ultimately did away with Chain draw 2 combinations because of this exact argument we would have every time a new player arrived. If two players remain, player one has 5 cards, player two has 2 cards, player two gives player one a Draw 2, then player one draws 2 cards, then plays a Draw 2 back on Player two. No stacking or chaining is in effect, so Player two now has 3 cards and Player one has 6, and the game continues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T19:37:27.240" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32709" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32704" CreationDate="2016-10-10T20:15:18.800" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, the Wild+4 card has always had the restriction that you cannot play it if you could have played another card of the same color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when I learned Uno, this restriction was true for both Wild and Wild+4, not just Wild+4.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;They may have lifted the restriction on the normal Wild card at some point or we may have always played it wrong. In any case, you aren't alone in feeling like you learned it one way only to find the rules say something else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14182" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T20:15:18.800" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32710" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32700" CreationDate="2016-10-10T22:55:45.387" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/eldritch-moon-release-notes-2016-07-08&quot;&gt;Eldritch Moon release notes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;While a meld card is anywhere other than the battlefield ... it has only the characteristics of its front face.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So once a melded creature is in the graveyard, the two parts have their front-face identities only and do not &quot;remember&quot; that they had been melded. Anything trying to move the cards back to hand or battlefield will have to interact with them separately.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, a creature that is rescued from death with &lt;strong&gt;regeneration&lt;/strong&gt; never actually leaves the battlefield at all, so regeneration works just fine on a melded creature. Regeneration does &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; mean to return the creature from the graveyard to the battlefield - rather it (roughly) means &quot;the next time this creature would die, instead it doesn't.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's part of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/images/magic/tcg/resources/rules/MagicCompRules_21031101.pdf&quot;&gt;Comprehensive Rules&lt;/a&gt; on regenerate:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;701.12a If the effect of a resolving spell or ability regenerates a permanent, it creates a replacement&#xA;  effect that protects the permanent the next time it would be destroyed this turn. In this case, &#xA;  “Regenerate [permanent]” means “The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn,&#xA;  instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature,&#xA;  remove it from combat.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the melded creature is on the battlefield it counts as just one creature, so a single regeneration effect can save it (you don't have to regenerate both halves).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-10-10T23:01:01.057" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T23:01:01.057" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32711" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32672" CreationDate="2016-10-10T23:13:18.830" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Android: Netrunner lead designer Damon Stone has &lt;a href=&quot;http://twitter.com/iLogos/status/785613284405673984&quot;&gt;confirmed&lt;/a&gt; on Twitter that Adam's directives are chosen and revealed after players' IDs are revealed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2016-10-10T23:13:18.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32713" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32714" CreationDate="2016-10-11T01:57:29.533" Score="0" ViewCount="381" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the actions you can do on your turn in Jaipur is to trade cards from your hand with an equal amount of cards from the market. I wasn't sure how this worked mechanically as well as its interaction with the 7-card hand limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I have 6 cards in hand&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I take two cards from the market, my hand is now 8&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I put two cards back into the market, my hand is 6 again&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a legal move, or at no point can my hand exceed 8? I would think inbetween an action resolving, you can have &gt;7 cards in hand but the rules are ambiguous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18272" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T02:16:07.660" Title="Exchanging in Jaipur" Tags="|jaipur|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32714" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32713" CreationDate="2016-10-11T02:16:07.660" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is a perfectly acceptable action to take.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55f65034e4b0f8a9c68669fd/t/56171c19e4b03950d6c466a6/1444355097680/jaipur+rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The rules&lt;/a&gt; at the bottom of the &quot;Take Cards&quot; page explicitly state:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players may never have more than 7 cards in their hand &lt;strong&gt;at the end of their turn.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the rules does it disallow gaining more than 7 cards to your hand during an exchange.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T02:16:07.660" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32715" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32704" CreationDate="2016-10-11T03:40:40.890" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule is you must not have any of the current color to be able to play the wild draw 4.  If you chose the current color as the color for the wild, this implies you are choosing a color you don't have any cards in.  You can do it, but it's very rarely a good idea unless you are trying to draw a challenge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastEditorUserId="9999" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T18:29:00.440" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T18:29:00.440" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32716" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-11T07:59:06.347" Score="0" ViewCount="1014" Body="&lt;p&gt;Alright so I'm pretty sure doubling season and like cards don't affect actions related to +X/X until end of turn or -x/X until end of turn because it doesn't physically say counters. My friend on the other thinks the opposite. For instance I have doubling season up, opponent gives me a -1/1 counter it would give my creature -2/2 due to doubling seasons wording, I give the negative counters to Quillspike to get +3/3. Here's where the difference comes in. He believes that for each negative counter given to Quillspike, Quillspike would receive +6/6 until end of turn even though they aren't worded as counters. Is this correct?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18643" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T08:06:35.783" Title="Until end of turn effects and Doubling Season" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-modern|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-10-11T16:26:18.043" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32717" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32716" CreationDate="2016-10-11T08:06:35.783" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your friend is not correct. As you identify, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDoubling%20Season%5d&quot;&gt;Doubling Season&lt;/a&gt;'s second ability only cares about counters being placed on permanents you control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If your opponent put a -1/-1 counter on a permanent you control, Doubling Season applies and two -1/-1 counters are placed instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bQuillspike%5d&quot;&gt;Quillspike&lt;/a&gt;'s ability cost doesn't place counters on permanents. It removes them. Quillspike's ability doesn't place counters, it just gets +3/+3 until end of turn. Neither part of this ability interacts directly with Doubling Season.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, because Quillspike is &quot;fuelled&quot; by -1/-1 counters, Doubling Season does ensure that you get double the fuel (as long as the creature receiving the counters isn't reduced to 0 toughness). You still have to pay the mana costs to activate Quillspike's ability more than once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T08:06:35.783" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32718" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32704" CreationDate="2016-10-11T09:12:15.243" Score="14" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://service.mattel.com/instruction_sheets/42001pr.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;These rules&lt;/a&gt; appear to be from 2001, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.maxiaids.com/Media/Uploaded/26787.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;these rules&lt;/a&gt; appear to be from 2003. Both sets of rules do not indicate any restrictions on the choice of colour after either wild.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The points from both rules about Wild Draw 4 are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You play it and choose the colour to continue.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The next player draws 4 and misses their turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You can only play this if you don't have a card of the matching colour.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;You can break the above rule.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The person drawing 4 may challenge you. If they win, the you draw 4 instead. If they lose, they draw an additional 2. (Note that they still miss their next turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Neither set of rules have any limitation on the colour choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For further reference, there's &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8442/what-rules-changes-have-there-been-in-uno&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; regarding the history of UNO rules. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.gamearchives.org/rules/InternationalGames_Uno_qu.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;1983 rules&lt;/a&gt; found there follow the same draw 4 rules as the more recent rules printings.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T08:20:33.337" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32719" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32720" CreationDate="2016-10-11T11:13:40.167" Score="5" ViewCount="600" Body="&lt;p&gt;I attack with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBorborygmos%20Enraged%5d&quot;&gt;Borborygmos Enraged&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent blocks with a 6/6 (which means Borborygmos will die). When Borborygmos Enraged deals damage to the player, I assume I still reveal the top 3 cards and put lands into my hand as part of the triggered ability. Am I able to use the &quot;Discard a land card&quot; ability with the new cards I draw with the triggered ability or is he dead and I can't use that ability?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7265" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T10:58:18.840" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T10:58:18.840" Title="Borborygmos Enraged's ability around dying in combat" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32720" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32719" CreationDate="2016-10-11T11:52:57.910" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The ability triggers, but you can't use these lands to activate Borborygmos Enraged's ability&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers when Borborygmos Enraged deals combat damage, even if at the same time it's dealt lethal damage itself. State-based actions see lethal damage marked on it and destroy it, causing it to go into your graveyard. The ability is then put on the stack and you get priority, but since Borborygmos Enraged isn't on the battlefield anymore, you can't activate it's ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If nothing else happens, the triggered ability will resolve and possibly reveal an amount of lands you may put into your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Relevant Rules&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.2. Second, all combat damage that's been assigned is dealt simultaneously. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3. Third, the active player gets priority. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;510.3a. Any abilities that triggered on damage being dealt or while state-based actions are performed afterward are put onto the stack before the active player gets priority (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;704.3. Whenever a player would get priority (...), the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. (...) Once no more state-based actions have been performed as the result of a check and no triggered abilities are waiting to be put on the stack, the appropriate player gets priority. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T09:04:30.740" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32721" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32722" CreationDate="2016-10-11T13:54:19.197" Score="0" ViewCount="1721" Body="&lt;p&gt;They are definitely not sets, editions and more resemble Game Format since cards get in and get out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What are the Cubes exactly?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2261" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:29:48.423" Title="What exactly is Legendary Cube/Vintage Cube in MTG Online?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32722" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32721" CreationDate="2016-10-11T14:12:35.357" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;In general '&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Cube_Draft&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Cube&lt;/a&gt;' is a Magic format where a person creates their own custom draft environment, choosing which cards are included. They can take cards from any sets the creators choose and can have any sort of theme their creators choose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/MTGO/articles/archive/magic-online/announcing-legendary-cube-2015-08-05&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Legendary Cube&lt;/a&gt; is one such cube created by Wizards of the Coast that is meant to showcase Legendary Creatures. Originally every creature was legendary, though it has since been &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/MTGO/articles/archive/legendary-cube-cardlist&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;updated&lt;/a&gt; to include non-legendary ones too. Also it was used to release some cards from various Commander products that hadn't been released in digital form yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/magic-online/holiday-cube-now-vintage-cube-2015-12-07&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Vintage Cube&lt;/a&gt; (previously known as the Holiday Cube due to only being available around December) is another cube developed by Wizards of the Coast that is designed to be a 'power cube' or a cube that has many of the most powerful cards ever released in the game. This cube doesn't really have a rotation like Standard, but they do &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/magic-digital/vintage-cube-update-2016-06-21&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;change the cards&lt;/a&gt; in it slightly in order to add cards from new sets and vary the environment slightly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T15:29:48.423" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T15:29:48.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32723" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31809" CreationDate="2016-10-11T14:22:59.793" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;'Search' or 'Open door' action should be finished before 'Poison Dart' effects apply.&#xA;So, whenever the card was played, hero will receive his item, even if he/she knocked out because of OL card's effect&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18645" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T14:22:59.793" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32724" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-11T14:37:03.827" Score="18" ViewCount="4761" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I pause the game before I use a counter target spell?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, they play a spell and I don't know what it is, so I say &quot;hold on&quot;, take 7 seconds to read it, then decide to counter - or, do I have to skip the time to read it and decide whether to counter it without even knowing what the card does, sort of like a guess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18646" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-10-11T15:43:34.180" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T16:55:12.710" Title="Can I pause a game of Magic: The Gathering to read and understand a card?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32725" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32724" CreationDate="2016-10-11T14:44:08.060" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You have the chance to read the card.  When a spell is cast, it is put on the stack.  Before it can resolve, both players have to pass priority. While you have priority, you can read the card and choose to cast a counter spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, if this is online, then you might have to take an action to say &quot;Wait, I don't just want this to resolve immediately, I want to hold priority&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T14:44:08.060" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32726" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32724" CreationDate="2016-10-11T15:12:57.170" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't &quot;pause&quot; the game, as the game isn't progressing by itself. Instead, it progresses only when all players agree that the game should go on, which most of the time means to pass priority. The most relevant rule to this is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;500.2. A phase or step in which players receive priority ends when the stack is empty and all players pass in succession. Simply having the stack become empty doesn't cause such a phase or step to end; all players have to pass in succession with the stack empty. Because of this, each player gets a chance to add new things to the stack before that phase or step ends.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each time a player acts in a way that uses the stack, such as cast a spell, there's a round of priority, as defined &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Game+Rules#2570&quot;&gt;by the rules&lt;/a&gt;, which (as stated above) all players have to pass in succession in order to progress.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So not only do you get to take the time to read and understand the card, but you get to think about in what way, if at all, you want to respond.&lt;/strong&gt; You may even ask a Judge or another player for clarifications on cards or rules. This is true at all times, for example if you're simply in need of clarification of the game state.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Nothing that isn't clearly labelled as such or banned in tournament play is luck- or random-based, requires manual dexterity, or requires fast reflexes or high reaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a tournament scenario, the only requirement is to do this in a timely manner (&quot;playing at a reasonable pace&quot;) to avoid &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Tournament+Policy#4553&quot;&gt;Slow Play&lt;/a&gt;, which means you're not allowed to stall the game by thinking about what you want to do for more than a sensible period of time in order to not slow down the tournament as a whole, or take an unfair amount of the shared round time for yourself. What that timespan is depends on the game situation, but you will always be given enough time to read a card that's reasonably unknown to you, and understand what it does.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;It isn't expected of you at any tournament level that you know all Magic cards out there, however it's expected at any level that you keep track of the game state and don't re-evaluate the entire board before making a decision.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason you might be thinking there's a certain time limit to take action is that the &lt;em&gt;Duels of the Planeswalkers&lt;/em&gt; games include an automatically progressing bar that gives you only so much time to react. This is supposedly done to prevent idling players from stalling the game, but has nothing to do with the paper version of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-10-12T16:55:12.710" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T16:55:12.710" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32728" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32724" CreationDate="2016-10-11T17:10:41.177" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although other answers have addressed your specific question, let me put it a different way that will serve you well in general: &lt;strong&gt;real time has&lt;/strong&gt; (almost) &lt;strong&gt;no role in Magic&lt;/strong&gt;. In other words, it basically never matters &lt;em&gt;how long&lt;/em&gt; you take to perform any action in the game.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt; Don't let anyone (except an acting judge) tell you otherwise.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A game of Magic is a sequence of steps - actions and decision points - which you and your opponent(s) have to go through in order.&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt; All you have to do is maintain the order. You don't have to stick to any time-based schedule.&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;1&lt;/sup&gt;Two exceptions: in a tournament, there is a time limit on the round as a whole (e.g. 50 minutes per match), but that does not affect the timing of individual actions within the game. Also, if you are taking an &lt;em&gt;excessive&lt;/em&gt; amount of time between actions, that is slow play and is illegal, but it's a subjective criterion, for a judge to decide on. There's no specific number of seconds or anything like that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sup&gt;2&lt;/sup&gt;Actually, you don't have to stick to the &lt;em&gt;exact&lt;/em&gt; order. The rules allow for out-of-order sequencing, which basically means you can do certain actions out of order as long as it doesn't confuse anybody.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2016-10-11T17:10:41.177" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32729" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8497" CreationDate="2016-10-12T04:42:51.963" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As with anything 7th ed, the answer is &lt;strong&gt;it depends&lt;/strong&gt;. There are so many more variables to take into consideration when building a 7th ed army than there were in previous editions. That said, I'll try to answer as best I can (obviously, this advice is only valid for Battleforged armies - Unbound is open slather).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Tau army is now following a similar route to the Eldar armies - they synergize well with each other and a myriad of rules and effects mean that the whole army often performs better than the individual parts would suggest, and the Fire Warriors certainly come into this - the options they now have thanks to Supporting Fire, Cadre Fireblades, Ethereals and Markerlights (not to mention other effects I'm no doubt forgetting) mean that even though they are the basic troops choice, they're able to be quite effective. And it depends a lot on the composition of the rest of the army.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Build-wise there are two main detachments presented in the Codex - the CAD and the Hunter Contingent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. CAD&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Combined Arms Detachment is the closest thing to the previous editions Force Organisation Charts. All Troops choices gain Objective Secured - meaning that they are the only units in your army to be able to control or contest objectives. So, if you are choosing a CAD for your army, consideration needs to be given to the composition of the rest of your army, and the objectives that you, as the player, want to use to determine victory (i.e. Missions, Objectives, straight up kill points etc.) Under the CAD you must take 1 HQ and 2 Troops, at this point you need to make the decision of how the rest of your army is styled (as above).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want  to focus on kill points and suits (and ignore objectives) - keep the troops to a minimum: 2 5 man Fire Warrior squads (Strike Teams) that can camp out on a backfield objective or generally just stay out of harms way. This is the minimum troop tax and largely dependent on your play style and points limit of the game and comes in at 90 pts for the two min sized squads.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, 10-12 is the optimal size. This gives you good offensive output (30&quot; Range, Supporting Fire etc), and the ability to contest and hold objectives and soak some casualties before the unit disappears. 10 is probably slightly more efficient Morale wise as there is no difference between 10 and 12 when it comes to determining 25% casualties (they both need to loose 3 models). The addition of drones and other goodies can also boost their survivability, but at increased points cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Hunter Contingent&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the detachment formation in the Codex, and the minimum troop tax in the core formation (the Hunter Cadre) is 3 units of any mix of Striker Teams, Breach Teams and Kroot. Again, the points of the game will determine how much you want to spend on the core troops, but a similar approach to the CAD can be taken. If points are scarce, the minimum cost for 3 x 5 man squads is 135.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, when you take a Cadre Fireblade as part of this formation, his Volley Fire rule allows his attached unit to fire an extra shot. That means a 12 strong squad is throwing out 26 S5 shots at 30&quot; range and 39 shots at close range (12 Fire Warriors plus the Fireblade). He also let's them Split Fire which can be useful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Adding an Ethereal (as part of the Contingent Headquarters Formation) will also let all units within 12&quot; fire an extra shot at half range as well. The above unit of 12 Fire Warriors and the Fireblade then start pumping out 52 S5 shots at anything under 15&quot; - which is also outside Rapid Fire range of nearly every other unit in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Formation and Detachment bonuses are also useful. The Detachment bonus lets multiple units fire as a single unit on the same target. If 3 or more units do so, then you gain +1 BS (30+ BS4 Fire Warriors anyone?). The Formation Bonus lets units within 12&quot; use Supporting Fire (instead of 6&quot;), and let's units within 12&quot; of your Commander and/or Fireblade Shoot then Run/Flat Out or Run/Flat Out then Shoot in the same phase - meaning your infantry units can be surprisingly mobile with little to no loss in damage output.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Conclusion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most effective size for Fire Warriors (Strike Teams at any rate) still seems to be 10-12, without a Transport. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shas'ui upgrade is optional, but I would recommend it in units that do not benefit from having a Fireblade or ethereal. It's a relatively modest points investment for the boosted Ld.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The devilfish is a large points investment for something that doesn't add a great deal to the unit output, and spending points on multiple transports greatly decreases your ability to better spend those points elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Used as part of the Hunter Contingent detachment, 3 full size Strike Teams (with added Ethereal and Fireblade) can form a relatively solid yet still damaging firebase able to contest objectives and control board sections.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strike Teams are still my preferred option: The 30&quot; range still effectively gives them an extra round of shooting over most other troops, S5 means they can threaten light vehicles (AV10-11), and they can put out a decent amount of shots per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerDisplayName="user16341" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T04:42:51.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32731" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-12T17:24:36.183" Score="5" ViewCount="861" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the Diplomacy board game, can player A issue a support order for a player B unit? Let's say player B has a hold order for his unit. Can player A use that unit for support in an attack? Basically, at any point under any circumstance can I &quot;commandeer&quot; an opponents unit to support my own attack, and in essence cut that support if he is also using it in an attack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18657" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T22:03:34.053" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:07:50.597" Title="Diplomacy Support Question?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32732" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32731" CreationDate="2016-10-12T17:44:15.867" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;A nation can support another nation's units. You just need to coordinate and issue the correct orders. Remember, you need to be specific with your support. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Army in X supports army moving from Y into Z.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18612" LastEditorUserId="18612" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T05:27:15.913" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T05:27:15.913" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32733" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32731" CreationDate="2016-10-12T18:37:46.073" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can only give orders for your own units.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The first sentence of paragraph 2, &quot;Order writing phase&quot; in &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/diplomacy.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt; is, emphasis mine,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each player secretly writes &quot;orders&quot; &lt;strong&gt;for each of his/her own units&lt;/strong&gt; on a slip of paper.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6780" LastEditorUserId="6780" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T07:07:50.597" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:07:50.597" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32734" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32731" CreationDate="2016-10-12T19:29:53.080" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can only send orders for your own units. You can use diplomacy to request another player to issue an order, but they are not required to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can issue an order to support a unit of another player (both move and hold). You can also convoy a unit of another nation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But you can not support a unit that is attacking you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-10-12T19:29:53.080" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32735" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14970" CreationDate="2016-10-13T00:33:52.360" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is also grid drafting, a format designed by Jason Waddell where the rules are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Start with 18 packs of 9 cards.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;For each pack, lay it out in a 3x3 grid face up (just lay them out in order, &gt;don't look at the cards and decide where each one should go).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The first player takes a row or column.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;The second player takes a remaining row or column. Discard the undrafted &gt;cards (which will be 3 or 4 cards per pack).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Alternate who goes first each pack&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can read more here &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/cube-design-grid-drafting-and-more/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;http://www.channelfireball.com/articles/cube-design-grid-drafting-and-more/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This format does not have the unknown information aspect of regular drafting, but it has a stronger focus on denying your opponents strategy while still getting good cards for your deck. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18661" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T00:33:52.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32736" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32737" CreationDate="2016-10-13T03:04:01.023" Score="25" ViewCount="7640" Body="&lt;p&gt;Arnold, Beth, and Chuck are playing a multiplayer game (e.g. Commander or Free-for-All).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Arnold has &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=152546&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Maralen of the Mornsong&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Players can't draw cards. At the beginning of each player's draw step, that player loses 3 life, searches his or her library for a card, puts it into his or her hand, then shuffles his or her library.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Beth has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDictate%20of%20Kruphix%5d&quot;&gt;Dictate of Kruphix&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each player's draw step, that player draws an additional card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently, it's Chuck's turn. He begins his draw step, and chooses that Dictate of Kruphix's ability go on the stack, and Maralen's ability go on top of that. Because Maralen is on the board, Dictate's ability is essentially useless (Maralen prevents players from drawing cards).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using Maralen's ability, Chuck tutors up a card. Suppose Arnold really hates Beth. After Maralen's ability resolves, Arnold concedes. Because Arnold has conceded, Maralen is no longer on the field. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4a When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player&#xA;  control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled&#xA;  any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease&#xA;  to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that&#xA;  player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It&#xA;  happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left&#xA;  the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to&#xA;  the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Chuck now proceeds to draw 2 cards (1 from the draw phase and 1 from Dictate of Kruphix).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this isn't an ethical thing for Arnold to do. But is it within the rules of the game? Or am I mistaken? Would something else happen instead?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A separate question: would this result in Arnold being banned from future tournaments?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2017-12-01T18:48:14.260" LastActivityDate="2021-09-02T21:17:01.880" Title="In multiplayer, can a player concede abusively?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32737" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32736" CreationDate="2016-10-13T03:58:32.197" Score="34" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules say you can concede whenever you want to:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;104.3a A player can concede the game at any time. A player who concedes leaves the game immediately. He or she loses the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is kind of unavoidable, because people have to be able to pick up their cards and leave. And it's certainly possible to use this spitefully, whether via your scenario or another. (It doesn't even have to be something fancy - just dropping out a turn before your inevitable death can swing things.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many people adopt house rules in order to curtail that sort of behavior. It's hard to define clearly what is and isn't acceptable, especially since you can be plenty spiteful even without ever conceding, but if you play with people you get along well enough with, you may be able to get away with &quot;don't be a jerk&quot;. More broadly, if you do things that make you miserable to play with, you might quickly find yourself not having anyone to play with.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for tournaments, well, there aren't really serious multiplayer tournaments, and so &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_30sep16_en.pdf&quot;&gt;the Magic Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; don't have anything explicit about multiplayer. There is potentially commander at Friday Night Magic, and if they're abiding by the rules, they'll have to allow you to concede at any time. But while I don't think the store could actually kick someone out for making a spiteful concession, the same about being pleasant to play with probably applies there: it's a local store, with many of the same people coming repeatedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T05:12:47.827" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T05:12:47.827" CommentCount="12" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32738" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-13T04:33:31.740" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Jaipur&lt;/em&gt; is a set collection game about being traders in Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan. It was first published by GameWorks SàRL in 2009.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/54043/jaipur&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Board Game Geek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T06:30:03.570" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T06:30:03.570" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32739" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-13T04:33:31.740" Score="0" Body="A set collection game about being traders in Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T06:29:53.080" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T06:29:53.080" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32740" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-13T04:39:10.203" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Condottiere&lt;/em&gt; is a hand management game in which players attempt to gain four connected provinces in renaissance Italy. It was first published by Eurogames in 1995 and later by Fantasy Flight Games in 2007.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/112/condottiere&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T06:29:44.300" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T06:29:44.300" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32741" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-13T04:39:10.203" Score="0" Body="A hand management game in which players attempt to gain four connected provinces in renaissance Italy." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T06:29:55.853" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T06:29:55.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32742" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-13T13:01:39.740" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T13:01:39.740" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T13:01:39.740" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32743" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-13T13:01:39.740" Score="0" Body="An expansion for 7 Wonders adding modules for new guilds and leaders." OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T17:30:20.350" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T17:30:20.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32744" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-13T13:02:18.797" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="-1" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T13:02:18.797" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T13:02:18.797" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32745" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-13T13:02:18.797" Score="0" Body="An expansion for 7 Wonders adding modules for the remains of cities" OwnerUserId="11571" LastEditorUserId="11571" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T17:30:46.607" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T17:30:46.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32746" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32748" CreationDate="2016-10-13T14:39:40.063" Score="3" ViewCount="9052" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Eldritch Horror&lt;/em&gt; has a plethora of expansions all with their own symbols at the bottom of the cards separated into &lt;em&gt;many&lt;/em&gt; decks. It seems unfeasible to go through each deck and remove all the expansions except the one you're playing with. So my question is: which expansion cards are fine to mix into their respective decks and which do I absolutely need to remove?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example: The &lt;em&gt;Mountains of Madness&lt;/em&gt; expansion introduces a Hypothermia condition which doesn't really make sense for the main board. The same could be said for the  Sled Dog asset. Do I need to remove these?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14751" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T22:05:49.523" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T22:05:49.523" Title="Which expansions are safe to mix?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|expansions|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32748" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32746" CreationDate="2016-10-13T15:18:10.343" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;While it seems Fantasy Flight Games has never &lt;em&gt;explicitly&lt;/em&gt; said that Eldritch Horror expansions can be combined, the consensus of players is that it is perfectly fine to play Eldritch Horror with multiple expansions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;No expansion is incompatible with another expansion&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus far, no expansion directly conflicts with another expansion. For instance, there is no expansion that introduces mechanic X, and another expansion that introduces mechanic Y such that mechanics X and Y cannot be played at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Most expansion cards can be shuffled in without issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because new cards are either Ancient One specific or shuffle naturally into existing decks (e.g. Common Item), there is no conflict between them. While there is some deck dilution, it doesn't seem to be a problem yet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1598572/multiple-side-boards-and-expansion-packs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiple expansion packs on the other hand mesh together very naturally and easily. There's no reason to separate base game and expansion components - just shuffle them together. The expansion-specific mechanisms, new spell types, tasks and unique assets and impairments, enter the game through cards in the common decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/boardgames/comments/3zh94o/playing_with_multiple_eldritch_horror_expansions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Reddit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you use a random subset of mythos cards, each enemy had their own set of special cards, and the map boards only come out with one enemy and one prelude card, the bloat isn't as bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, each expansion does add more conditions, more spells, more enemy counters, more assets, and so on and those do suffer some bloat. As already said, this isn't excessive - but it could be problematic eventually&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Investigators usually lack a reason to go to multiple sideboards&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It does seem like having multiple sideboards tends to lead to a situation where nobody wants to go to them. &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/boardgames/comments/3zh94o/playing_with_multiple_eldritch_horror_expansions/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From Reddit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I own all the current expansions and always play with all of them. Sideboards rarely come out since they are tied to a specific Ancient One or Prelude card. If you do use a side board its usually one and VERY rarely two.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1598572/multiple-side-boards-and-expansion-packs&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;From BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The thing is that there's not really much reason to go to the side boards if you don't have a mission there. Sure, you can throw them down and make them available, but rarely will anybody take the detour because you don't have anything to do there (though the Antarctic might be handy as a shortcut?).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's really the prelude cards and ancient ones that give you stuff to do on those side boards that make it make sense to have them in the first place.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Cards that are only relevant to a specific sideboard &lt;em&gt;should&lt;/em&gt; never come up if you leave them in&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You mentioned what to do about cards that are only relevant to a certain sideboard, such as the Hypothermia condition and the Sled Dog asset, which only work on the Mountains of Madness sideboard. Fortunately, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1497351/confused-about-mixing-cards-expansions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;a BoardGameGeek user&lt;/a&gt; described how this is a non-issue:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards with the same backs can be mixed together without issues.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Double sided cards like spells, conditions as well as unique assets will all have their own decks and can also be mixed together.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Don't worry about drawing a Dog Sled if you aren't playing with the Antarctica side board, as finding a unique asset you are usually directed to draw a certain type of card... which is never ally.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Antarctic research cards are unique backed, thus they will create their own deck, and will only be needed when using the Antarctica sideboard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should you somehow wind up with gaining a useless card, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/article/20985641#20985641&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;another user&lt;/a&gt; described a pretty simple way to resolve it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All of my games (quite a few now already) have been played with Base, FL, MoM, and SR, and yet this situation has yet to arise for me. However, my gaming group has discussed it, and we all agreed if it ever came up, we'd just discard it as irrelevant and draw again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T15:52:08.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32749" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-13T15:28:02.730" Score="0" ViewCount="3788" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a heavily token based deck. The tokens can usually become something between 5/5 and 15/15 in a few turns, but don't have trample. Is it possible for my opponent to be able to block all of my tokens attacking at the same time and they wouldn't take any damage? And no they don't have cards that specifically say that their creatures can assign additional blocking.  I ask because if what I think is true, then if I have more tokens than they have creatures that can block, then I should be able to outswing them. Please I need clarification on this issue and any help would be extremely helpful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18666" LastActivityDate="2021-11-01T23:08:36.727" Title="Tokens and how blocking works" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mechanics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32750" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32736" CreationDate="2016-10-13T15:32:49.103" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is NOT a rules based answer. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have not played Magic for some time, but when I did play there was a simple house rule (for multiplayer). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you conceded, you could not play the next &quot;game&quot; either. The general idea is that concessions were not supposed to be tactical things in multiplayer, but to fill the need of &quot;I gotta go&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Kind of the same way with being dealt out in poker.  If you miss the blinds then you have to wait for them to come back around. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, there was no rule that said you could not concede. So some people did, just to get their friends a boost. Those people usually had a hard time finding others to play with though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16334" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T15:32:49.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32751" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32749" CreationDate="2016-10-13T15:35:15.477" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tokens are not relevant here. When your opponent assigns blockers, he can choose to have each of his untapped creatures block one of your attacking creatures. So if you are attacking with more creatures than he has creatures available to block; he will not be able to block all of them, and the unblocked ones will deal their damage to him directly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should read through &lt;a href=&quot;https://web.archive.org/web/20191030204235/https://www.wizards.com/magic/rules/EN_MTGM11_Rulebook_LR_Web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the basic rulebook&lt;/a&gt;; this is a fundamental part of how attacking and blocking work, so there's probably other important details you are missing. From the section on Attacking and Blocking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each creature can block only one attacker, but multiple blockers can gang up on a single attacking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="5918" LastEditDate="2021-10-31T09:15:18.713" LastActivityDate="2021-10-31T09:15:18.713" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32752" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32749" CreationDate="2016-10-13T15:38:53.827" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Normally, each creature can block only one attacking creature. Some abilities can change this. For example, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrave%20the%20Sands%5d&quot;&gt;Brave the Sands&lt;/a&gt; has an ability that allows each of your creatures to block an additional creature, and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHundred-Handed%20One%5d&quot;&gt;Hundred-Handed One&lt;/a&gt; can block a hundred creatures when it is Monstrous.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without any of those abilities, if you attack with more creatures than your opponent has, then if you attack with everything, some of your creatures will be unblocked and will deal damage to your opponent. For example, if your opponent has 5 untapped creatures and you attack with 7 creatures, they can block any 5 of your attacking creatures, and the other 2 will deal damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T15:38:53.827" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32753" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-13T18:00:30.583" Score="4" ViewCount="220" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am looking for examples of professional Go games where one of the pros played solid, steady moves that were initially considered slow by the commentators, but eventually won him/her the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My objective is to try and better understand the role of reinforcement moves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14604" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2017-10-17T04:35:09.433" LastActivityDate="2018-07-14T12:05:14.357" Title="Examples of steady play in Go games?" Tags="|go|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32754" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32758" CreationDate="2016-10-13T18:46:06.313" Score="4" ViewCount="4507" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a land turns into a creature, but the effect that did that says &quot;it's still a land&quot;, does that mean it can still produce its original mana? Or does it only have the &lt;em&gt;Land&lt;/em&gt; type as an additional type?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2532" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T23:44:53.487" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T12:08:47.930" Title="Meaning of &quot;it's still a land&quot;" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="4" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32755" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32754" CreationDate="2016-10-13T18:48:45.140" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;That land is both a land (of its original types) and also a creature.  So, a forest that is turned into a blue elemental is: a blue &quot;creature land - elemental forest&quot; that can tap (unless summoning sick) for green mana. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T19:22:55.533" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T19:22:55.533" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32756" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-13T18:55:21.107" Score="0" ViewCount="240" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bManic%20Scribe%5d&quot;&gt;Manic Scribe&lt;/a&gt; and 2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMomentary%20Blink%5d&quot;&gt;Momentary Blink&lt;/a&gt;s, is it possible to use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMomentary%20Blink%5d&quot;&gt;Momentary Blink&lt;/a&gt; on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bManic%20Scribe%5d&quot;&gt;Manic Scribe&lt;/a&gt; multiple times, and if so, does his ability trigger again?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18671" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T21:35:05.753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T21:35:05.753" Title="What happens when I blink a Manic Scribe multiple times?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32757" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32754" CreationDate="2016-10-13T19:17:56.813" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If it didn't have that text it would no longer be a land. For lands without a basic land type this wouldn't change a whole lot since removing types doesn't effect abilities. For lands with basic land types they would lose any mana abilities that those basic land types grant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since it retains the land type nothing really happens other than it gaining the new type  (and anything else that ability might do).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.1a&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects set an object’s card type. In such cases, the new card type(s) replaces any existing card types.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;205.1b&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects change an object’s card type, supertype, or subtype but specify that the object retains a prior card type, supertype, or subtype. In such cases, all the object’s prior card types, supertypes, and subtypes are retained.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T19:17:56.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32758" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32754" CreationDate="2016-10-13T19:51:12.253" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a land becomes a creature (or any other permanent type) but is still a land, it retains all subtypes associated with being a land it may have had previously, such as &quot;Mountain&quot; or &quot;Plains&quot;. If the rider that says &quot;It is still a land&quot; were not there, it would lose those types. The main reason this is significant is that each of the land types comes with the ability to tap for the appropriate colour of mana, so if you lose the subtype &quot;Mountain&quot;, for example, you can no longer tap for red mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 1: Suppose you turn a basic mountain into a plant creature, and it is still a land, as in your original question. Its type-line now reads: Basic Land Creature - Mountain Plant. It can still tap for red mana, because it is still a mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 2: Suppose you turn the basic mountain into a plant creature, but this time it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; still a land (I'm not sure if there are any cards that work like this, but it is possible). The type-line now reads: Creature - Plant. It has no activated abilities, as tapping to add red mana is something associated with being a mountain, and this creature is no longer a mountain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example 3: Suppose you turn a nonbasic land with the ability &quot;T: Add C to your mana pool&quot; (that is, you can tap it for colourless mana) into a plant creature, but this time, it is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; still a land. You end up with the type-line: Creature - Plant, but it still has the tap ability to add colourless mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastEditorUserId="18563" LastEditDate="2016-10-13T20:35:18.427" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T20:35:18.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32759" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32756" CreationDate="2016-10-13T19:51:25.550" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can cast any amount of momentary blinks on your scribe, after the blink brings it back onto the battlefield both  you and your opponent  can target the scribe again as normal. Each time the scribe comes back its &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; ability will trigger again. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18661" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T19:51:25.550" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32760" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32756" CreationDate="2016-10-13T19:56:18.813" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;What you are describing is possible, but I will go over various interpretations of what you described. We will assume that you already have a Manic Scribe on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely way you will accomplish what you're trying to do is by casting Momentary Blink on the scribe, letting the spell resolve so it can come back and trigger its &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; ability, and then casting your second Momentary Blink on it. This will cause it to leave and re-enter twice, triggering its ability twice, and overall making each opponent put 6 cards in their graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could also cast Momentary Blink on it, then hold priority and cast the second Momentary Blink on it before the first one resolves. This is a Bad Idea, because after one of them resolves, the other will not have a valid target and be countered (fizzle) on resolution (as the scribe left the battlefield and came back, so is a new object). Then, you wasted one of your blinks! Your opponent will only put 3 cards into their graveyard, because Manic Scribe only entered the battlefield once.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Manic Scribe has a triggered ability that triggers on your opponent's upkeep (if you have Delirium) in addition to the one that triggers when it enters the battlefield, however you cannot cause this trigger to repeat in the same way. Your opponent's upkeep happens and the trigger is put on the stack. At this point, if you blink the scribe, it will leave and re-enter, and the &quot;enters the battlefield&quot; trigger will go on the stack too, but there is no way to get a second &quot;beginning of upkeep&quot; trigger to occur. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastActivityDate="2016-10-13T19:56:18.813" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32761" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32731" CreationDate="2016-10-13T21:11:07.493" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way to obtain the support of Player B's unit is to convince player B to write out the support order on your behalf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say you are France, allied with England against Germany. On the second turn, you move A Burgundy to Belgium, opposed only by a German fleet, Netherlands to Belgium. You want the support of the English fleet in the North Sea.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even though you and England are allies, you can't write orders on his behalf. Instead, you must persuade him to write, F North Sea supports A Burgundy to Belgium on his own order card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a good time to find out if England really is your ally. Maybe his order will be, instead, F North Sea supports F Netherlands to Belgium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-10-15T18:00:28.177" LastActivityDate="2016-10-15T18:00:28.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32762" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32754" CreationDate="2016-10-14T04:02:02.700" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An elaboration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One of the most important aspects of being a land is that lands can have types that other card types cannot have. Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest are all types of Lands. When objects with these types stop being lands, they lose these types and therefore do not produce mana colors of those types any longer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T04:02:02.700" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32764" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2016-10-14T09:47:24.083" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to make the case for &quot;Nothing happens. Both creatures will die as 1/1 or 2/2.&quot; in this special case. I think this would happen due to how the stack works.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say Alice decides to start the pumping process. She taps both Leaden Myrs to get two black Mana, spends one to pump her Shade and the other to activate the untap ability of one of her Galvanizers. Bob does the same in response. Now we have two 2/2 Shades posed to fight each other and one tapped Galvanizer on both sides.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After Galvanizer's ability resolves, Alice receives priority. She taps a Myr for a third black mana and then uses it to activate the untap ability of her second Galvanizer. Bob decides to seize the opportunity and activates his second Galvanizer's ability in response. It goes to the top of the stack and since Alice has nothing to respond herself (aside from maybe giving the Shade one further +1/+1), it resolves first. Now Bob's Myrs untap and Alice's untap ability is still on the stack. Bob won't let that ability resolve until he has used the combo to +10/+10 his Shade.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now Alice can try to pump her Shade as often as she wants, but Bob will always respond with +10/+10 for every +1/+1 she can muster. So, Bob informs her that he will respond this way every time and asks Alice how often she wants to pump her Shade. Whatever she says, her Shade will be weaker and thus die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conversely, if Alice passes priority without doing anything, and Bob starts to pump his Shade, Alice will be able to always respond with a +10/+10 for each of Bob's +1/+1. Then, Bob's Shade will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Knowing this, Alice will pass priority, as will Bob, without doing anything and both Shades die as 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastEditorUserId="8488" LastEditDate="2016-10-17T13:34:08.080" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T13:34:08.080" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32765" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-14T12:29:40.763" Score="4" ViewCount="305" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have 3 artifacts and 1 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInventor%27s%5d%2b%5bApprentice%5d&quot;&gt;Inventor&amp;#39;s Apprentice&lt;/a&gt;. Does my apprentice get +1/+1 or +3/+3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18347" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T13:58:50.927" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T15:58:21.840" Title="How is Inventor's Apprentice affected by multiple artifacts?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32766" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32765" CreationDate="2016-10-14T12:33:18.727" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inventor's Apprentice gets +1/+1 as long as you control an artifact. It's only +1/+1, and this is true no matter how many artifacts you control. If it was the other way, it would say &quot;Inventor's Apprentice gets +1/+1 for each artifact you control&quot;, as it does for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCranial%20Plating%5d&quot;&gt;Cranial Plating&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T15:58:21.840" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T15:58:21.840" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32767" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32768" CreationDate="2016-10-14T14:28:39.080" Score="6" ViewCount="2580" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's the situation. My opponent is at three life, has three creatures and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Nahiri%2C%20the%20Harbinger&quot;&gt;Nahiri, the Harbinger&lt;/a&gt; with three loyalty. I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;https://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=Rakdos%20Charm&quot;&gt;Rakdos Charm&lt;/a&gt;, choosing the &amp;quot;Each creature deals 1 damage to its controller.&amp;quot; mode. My opponent controls the sources of damage, so are they able to redirect some of the damage to Nahiri in order to not lose?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I ask this because I was playing magic online a few days ago and a similar situation came up. I was surprised I didn't get the option to redirect damage to Nahiri myself until I read Rakdos Charm more carefully, but then I realised my opponent didn't get the prompt either. I'm wondering if the client handled this incorrectly, or there's some rule that caused this to happen.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastEditorUserId="12315" LastEditDate="2022-01-18T19:32:14.363" LastActivityDate="2022-01-18T19:32:14.363" Title="Redirecting damage to my own planeswalker" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32768" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32767" CreationDate="2016-10-14T14:35:30.800" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As of the Dominaria rules update in 2018, the planeswalker redirection rule is completely gone, so Rakdos charm cannot deal damage to a planeswalker at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.7. Previously, planeswalkers were subject to a redirection effect that allowed a player to have noncombat damage that would be dealt to an opponent be dealt to a planeswalker under that opponent’s control instead. This rule has been removed and certain cards have received errata in the Oracle card reference to deal damage directly to planeswalkers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keeping the original answer below for historical reference:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage can only be redirected if the source of the damage is controlled by your opponent, and even then it's the opponent that can choose to redirect it, not you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.7. If noncombat damage would be dealt to a player &lt;strong&gt;by a source controlled by an opponent, that opponent may have that source deal that damage to a planeswalker the first player controls instead&lt;/strong&gt;. This is a redirection effect (see rule 614.9) and is subject to the normal rules for ordering replacement effects (see rule 616). The opponent chooses whether to redirect the damage as the redirection effect is applied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="2602" LastEditDate="2019-05-04T01:36:05.607" LastActivityDate="2019-05-04T01:36:05.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32769" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32770" CreationDate="2016-10-14T15:25:05.937" Score="2" ViewCount="1530" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bParadoxical%20Outcome%5d&quot;&gt;Paradoxical Outcome&lt;/a&gt; and targets 2 permanents they control.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I then cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInsidious%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Insidious Will&lt;/a&gt;. Now I can just counter Paradoxical Outcome, but instead I want to bounce some of their permanents (for example clearing blockers out of the way). It is clear that I can change the target from 2 permanents to another 2 permanents, but do I need to target the same number of permanents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words can I choose to return none, one or seven permanents?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to redirect the same number would I be able to choose the same target twice and as a result only return one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this is not a duplicate of &lt;a href=&quot;//boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7928/choosing-new-targets-for-a-spell-with-a-variable-number-of-targets&quot;&gt;&quot;Choosing new targets for a spell with a variable number of targets&quot;&lt;/a&gt; as that is specifically for copying spells, not changing the targets of an existing spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16075" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T15:47:41.670" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T15:55:52.213" Title="Changing targets for a spell with a variable number of targets" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32770" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32769" CreationDate="2016-10-14T15:47:14.640" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You cannot change the number of targets. The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Target&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules about targets&lt;/a&gt; say the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.3.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;The same target can’t be chosen multiple times for any one instance of the word “target” on a spell or ability.&lt;/strong&gt; If the spell or ability uses the word “target” in multiple places, the same object, player, or zone can be chosen once for each instance of the word “target” (as long as it fits the targeting criteria). &lt;strong&gt;This rule applies both when choosing targets for a spell or ability and when changing targets or choosing new targets for a spell or ability (see rule 114.6).&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.6.&lt;/strong&gt; Some effects allow a player to change the target(s) of a spell or ability, and other effects allow a player to choose new targets for a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.6a&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect allows a player to “change the target(s)” of a spell or ability, each target can be changed only to another legal target. If a target can’t be changed to another legal target, the original target is unchanged, even if the original target is itself illegal by then. If all the targets aren’t changed to other legal targets, none of them are changed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;114.6d&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect allows a player to “choose new targets” for a spell or ability, the player may leave any number of the targets unchanged, even if those targets would be illegal. If the player chooses to change some or all of the targets, the new targets must be legal and must not cause any unchanged targets to become illegal.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-10-14T15:55:52.213" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T15:55:52.213" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32771" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32706" CreationDate="2016-10-14T16:05:12.103" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a variant of the game Accordian. Here are the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accordion_(solitaire)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rules for Accordian&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18662" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T16:05:12.103" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32772" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32686" CreationDate="2016-10-14T18:25:00.440" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&quot;Scavenge {5}{G}{G}&quot; is a keyword ability. A keyword ability is a shortcut that represents one or more other abilities. The parenthesized, italicized text is a reminder of the gist of the ability for which the keyword stands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Specifically, the keyword ability &quot;Scavenge [cost]&quot; means &quot;[Cost], Exile this card from your graveyard: Put a number of +1/+1 counters equal to this card's power on target creature. Scavenge only as a sorcery.&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-10-14T18:25:00.440" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32773" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32665" CreationDate="2016-10-14T18:34:23.670" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The simplest answer is probably the correct one: The developers didn't see the need to restrict Selvala's ability, and they didn't see the need to retroactively change Charmed Pendant to match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A competing answer claims it's because &quot;speed restrictions&quot; are a thing of the past (1999), but that's blatantly false. The &lt;em&gt;Outlast&lt;/em&gt; ability has one, and that's a very recent addition to the game (2014). This is &lt;em&gt;far&lt;/em&gt; from the only example.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T15:52:14.497" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T15:52:14.497" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32774" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32775" CreationDate="2016-10-15T22:17:48.760" Score="2" ViewCount="224" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/32731/diplomacy-support-question/32761#32761&quot;&gt;This question&lt;/a&gt; brought back memories of a situation that occurred to me about 40 years ago. (I haven't played much Diplomacy since then.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was playing France, worried about England and Germany, and England made an &quot;alliance&quot; offer to me arguing, &quot;You will have 5 supply centers at the end of 1901, Germany will have 5, and I should have 5, to preserve the balance of power. Will you support me into Belgium against Germany using the army that you moved into Burgundy in spring, 1901?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I &quot;temporized&quot; by saying that I would support a British fleet into Belgium, but not an army. So in my Fall, 1901 orders, I wrote, &quot;A Burgundy supports &lt;em&gt;fleet only,&lt;/em&gt; N Sea to Belgium.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;England's orders read, &quot;A Yorkshire to Belgium, F N Sea convoys.&quot; This was against my express intent, and after an argument, we took the issue to the host/organizer (who was playing Turkey). The host ruled into favor of England, who argued, &quot;The army went to Belgium via the fleet N. Sea, and the supporting French army couldn't know until after the fact whether it was the fleet or army that occupied Belgium.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To this day, I think that the host (and England) were wrong. Were they?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:38:56.107" Title="Can a Diplomacy player pick and choose which unit to support?" Tags="|diplomacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32775" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32774" CreationDate="2016-10-16T01:01:51.957" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/diplomacy.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A unit ordered to move can only be supported by a support order that matches the move the unit is trying to make.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The support order was: A Bur S English F Nrs - Bel&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The move order was: A Yor - Bel (Possible because of F Nrs C A Yor - Bel)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are two conflicts:&#xA;- The supported unit is a Fleet, the moved unit is an Army. This alone could have been a typo.&#xA;- The supported unit is the unit in Nrs, the moved unit is from Yor. And those are clearly two different units. There is no quesion that these do not match.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the orders where conflicting, they should have failed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-10-16T07:38:56.107" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:38:56.107" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32776" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-16T06:45:23.910" Score="-3" ViewCount="18447" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gk8Oa.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;!&#xA;Who wins this hand? My friends and I are at a loss. Our hands are located above and below the tabled cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18685" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:44:35.113" Title="Exact Same Poker Hand: Who Wins or Tie?" Tags="|poker-texas-holdem|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-16T14:15:51.060" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32777" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32776" CreationDate="2016-10-16T07:44:35.113" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Texas Hold'em counts the best five cards out of the community cards and your hand, which means the both of you have this result:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;pre&gt;&lt;code&gt;A A J J 10 (Two Pair, Kicker 10)&#xA;&lt;/code&gt;&lt;/pre&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Because both of your hands are equally ranked, this will result in a Split Pot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are no symbol weights like in other games, where Spades are worth more or less than Diamonds, and never will more than five cards be considered for the final result (in order to give one player a Three Pair, in this case).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-10-16T07:44:35.113" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32778" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32780" CreationDate="2016-10-17T02:03:49.070" Score="5" ViewCount="1021" Body="&lt;p&gt;My understanding is that the special rules regarding the King are: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the King is turned face up at the pre-distribution phase, it goes back into the deck. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;If the King is targeted by the Assassin, the crown still changes player. &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question I have is - if the current crown-holder always chooses the King as their card, then the crown will never change hands. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a correct understanding of the rules? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7687" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T07:20:50.780" Title="Is there anything stopping the crownholder taking the King card every turn?" Tags="|citadels|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32779" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32778" CreationDate="2016-10-17T02:33:56.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the king holder always takes the king then they will become an easy target for other players when they take the assassin or the thief. If they only pick the king then they will end up hurting themselves as there is no real benefit to always being the crown holder that would make up for losing the other abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5001" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T02:33:56.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32780" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32778" CreationDate="2016-10-17T07:20:50.780" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Getting the crown is usually a small reward in comparison to, say, the architect or the thief abilities. The only way this can be a good strategy is focusing on golden districts. At that point, is it easy to target the king with either the thief or the assasin and break the advantage of having the crown AND a useful ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In short, there is no way of stopping some player keeping the king forever, but there is also not a good reason to do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10090" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T07:20:50.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32781" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32562" CreationDate="2016-10-17T08:35:19.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have done some research on it on various game boards, and most experienced players recommend not to take Storm's End, and offering to leave it to Martells on the condition that they don't muster units there. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After a moment of thinking, I think it's about right. Storm's End is, after all, just one regular castle. But it basically confines Martells to Dorne, so it encourages betrayal, and since Dornish Sea is rather impregnable early game, it will suffer constant raiding orders from there, reducing its usefulness almost to zero. If Martells try to muster there, you can always raid them from Shipbreaker Bay anyway. Out of your two closest enemies - Martells and Starks, the former are usually not the weaker side, so striking an alliance with them seems like a better option. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18370" LastActivityDate="2016-10-17T08:35:19.783" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32782" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32783" CreationDate="2016-10-17T20:29:47.917" Score="3" ViewCount="70" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &quot;Tin Woodman&quot; can chop down the &quot;Fighting Trees&quot;, now the question is: is this ability played as an action (like playing one card) or a free action, my searches have been unable to find out, is this ability an action or a free action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18694" LastEditorUserId="18694" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T12:27:15.740" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T17:52:14.320" Title="OZ fluxx Tin Woodman vs the Fighting Trees" Tags="|fluxx|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32783" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32782" CreationDate="2016-10-18T00:30:19.037" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.looneylabs.com/lit/rules/oz-fluxx-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;The Rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Optional actions allowed by new Rules, Keepers, etc., may be performed at any point...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...during the turn sequence. This would include chopping down the Fighting Trees.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8296" LastEditorUserId="8296" LastEditDate="2016-10-18T17:52:14.320" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T17:52:14.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32785" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="14437" CreationDate="2016-10-18T07:44:52.513" Score="4" Body="&lt;h3&gt;The game doesn't end in a draw&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is true in any case, and I haven't seen it mentioned in here before. Here's the rule for games ending because of a loop of actions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;104.4b. If a game (...) somehow enters a &amp;quot;loop&amp;quot; of mandatory actions, repeating a sequence of events with no way to stop, the game is a draw. Loops that contain an optional action don’t result in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since nothing about this interaction is mandatory, there's no way this would end in a draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;This situation isn't a fragmented loop&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: The following rule's number used to be 716.3, which is widely referenced in other answers&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;719.3. Sometimes a loop can be fragmented, meaning that each player involved in the loop performs an independent action that results in the same game state being reached (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules don't give a specific definition for &amp;quot;game state&amp;quot;, but the only &lt;em&gt;possible&lt;/em&gt; interpretation without breaking the rules is that it includes all information required to reconstruct the game from scratch, should you attempt to do so. Static buffs would have to be part of the game state, just like counters or whether a creature is tapped or not, or even on the battlefield. A 1/1 is simply not the same as a 1/1 that has +10/+10 - if you disagree, imagine the same game state with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElesh%20Norn%2c%20Grand%20Cenobite%5d&quot;&gt;Elesh Norn, Grand Cenobite&lt;/a&gt; in play for only one of the players. Game state should not be confused with relative board presence.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;Further, the IPG mentions &lt;em&gt;&amp;quot;triggered abilities that affects the game state in non-visible ways&amp;quot;&lt;/em&gt;, which precisely applies to static buffs and granted abilities such as Flying in the example of 719.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Due to the game state changing after each execution of the loop, 719.3 doesn't apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How this plays out (in a tournament scenario)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From what's stated in the question, it would simply result in two equally sized Nantuko Shades at any point that would kill each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming the players wouldn't be satisfied with that, they would call a Judge. As I stated in a comment to M.Herzkamp's answer, it's not the Judge's job to come up with other possibilities to what could have been done (and in fact should refrain from doing so, or at least telling the players about it), but to handle the presented situation. Now, there's a number of ways in which this could be presented (and keep in mind that the Judge's responses are what I deem to be applicable, and that actual Judge calls may differ in result):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;The active player is complaining that every time they activate their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNantuko%20Shade%5d&quot;&gt;Nantuko Shade&lt;/a&gt;'s ability, their opponent does the same. This has been going on for a while.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;This sounds like a perfect example of Slow Play (for both players), and might result in a Warning, or at least a remark about it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;The active player has proposed a shortcut of pumping his Nantuko Shade a set number of times with the combo described in the question, and the opponent agreed, however adding that each time the active player would activate it, they would activate their own Nantuko Shade in response.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;All the judge can reasonably do here is confirm that everything's done by the rules, and that the shortcut proposed is legal, even knowing that after it's handled, situation 1 would likely occur, unless a player comes up with one of the different ways to play this scenario.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, this might result in some Slow Play warnings, however if no player figures out a way to break the cycle, will likely result in equally proportioned Nantuko Shades that will kill each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to highlight something that the user Pow-Ian suggested this in the comments above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I were the judge called over, I would rule both [Nantuko Shades] to be destroyed. One end to a loop like this is that there is one infinity/infinity creature blocking another. Unless either player has some trick to get one of the shades out of combat, destroy the other, or do something else that would affect the loops infinite outcome, then they both should be destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would be very harmful for the game in progress, and very much outside of the job description of a Judge. The comment suggests that you take control out of the player's hands by deciding how they will act (pumping the creatures to the same level) as opposed to judging what effects &lt;em&gt;their&lt;/em&gt; actions have. Furthermore, you advance the game to the combat damage step by ruling that both creatures get destroyed, preventing both players from casting additional spells or activating abilities. Furthermore, you suggest to only do this if they don't have a means to break this &lt;em&gt;non-mandatory&lt;/em&gt; loop, which allows for the interpretation of forcing them to cast a spell in their hand that they may cast or revealing the existance of such, even though the player never intended to do so. On top of that, suggesting to the players that &amp;quot;infinite&amp;quot; P/T exists is one of the less recommendable actions in this situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;How this plays out in any non-tournament scenario&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Without the problem/feature of Slow Play issues, and without the prohibited outside assistance, players are more likely to figure out a different solution, such as the one proposed by M.Herzkamp, and continue the game from that point. They might also just eventually put both Nantuko Shades in their graveyards, or agree on a draw, or yell at each other and never formally finish the game...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T13:09:37.387" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32786" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-18T10:15:19.250" Score="4" ViewCount="1694" Body="&lt;p&gt;What does tarot card size mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18697" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2018-03-17T23:14:23.590" LastActivityDate="2018-03-17T23:14:23.590" Title="What does Tarot card size mean" Tags="|playing-cards|tarot|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32787" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32786" CreationDate="2016-10-18T15:10:03.507" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tarot is played with 78 cards and at the beginning of the game a player's hand is quite big (18 cards for a 4-player game ; 15 for a 5-player game and 24 for a 3-player game).&#xA;With an ordinary format (Poker or Bridge), it would be difficult to hold them, so Tarot cards are longer and narrower.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The measurements I found are 60mmx120mm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More info (in French) &lt;a href=&quot;https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarot_nouveau#Format&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;on the wikipedia page&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T15:10:03.507" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32788" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32786" CreationDate="2016-10-18T16:22:32.610" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you're asking for dimensions, what I found is Mayday sleeves for &lt;em&gt;french tarot&lt;/em&gt; cards listing size as &lt;strong&gt;61x112mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mmp5z.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mmp5z.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Mayday Sleeves for french tarot cards&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And FFG &quot;tarot sized&quot; sleeves are &lt;strong&gt;70x120mm&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lfD3T.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/lfD3T.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;FFG Tarot Sized sleeves&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T16:22:32.610" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32789" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32791" CreationDate="2016-10-18T17:57:10.513" Score="2" ViewCount="531" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bViridian%20Shaman%5d&quot;&gt;Viridian Shaman&lt;/a&gt; and there is only one artifact on the battlefield - &lt;strong&gt;my&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSol%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt;. Must I destroy my own artifact due to Viridian Shaman's trigger?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17616" LastEditorUserId="8021" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T01:53:28.367" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T01:53:28.367" Title="When resolving &quot;destroy X when Y enters the battlefield&quot;, must I choose a target if the only available one is my own?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32790" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32789" CreationDate="2016-10-18T18:01:44.480" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately yes. &#xA;Upon resolution of the enter the battlefield trigger it checks for a valid target and if there is one you have to choose it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18700" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T18:01:44.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32791" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32789" CreationDate="2016-10-18T18:07:19.400" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you must destroy your own artifact if it is the only one on the battlefield. If it were optional it would have the word 'may' in the ability like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAcid%20Web%20Spider%5d&quot;&gt;Acid Web Spider&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an ability triggers and it has a legal target it will always be put on the stack and a legal target chosen. Then when the ability resolves if it has a 'may' in it you can choose not to have its effect occur otherwise it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.5.&lt;/strong&gt; Some triggered abilities’ effects are optional (they contain “may,” as in “At the beginning of your upkeep, you may draw a card”). These abilities go on the stack when they trigger, regardless of whether their controller intends to exercise the ability’s option or not. &lt;strong&gt;The choice is made when the ability resolves.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-18T18:07:19.400" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32793" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13124" CreationDate="2016-10-19T10:11:00.243" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends how you kill it, if it is through blocking, then they'll both still be 3/3 for the damage step, but if you cast an instant, like lightening axe in the declare blockers step, the muscle sliver dies, leaving a 2/2 muscle sliver.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18705" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T10:11:00.243" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32794" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="7902" CreationDate="2016-10-19T10:44:26.123" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We call it bondi in maldives ok.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18706" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T10:44:26.123" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32795" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24153" CreationDate="2016-10-19T11:34:25.313" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If we put the opponent's last coin without finishing red then we are lost. If we put our last coin without finishing red then we have to place one minus. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18707" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T11:34:25.313" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32798" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-19T13:34:25.033" Score="4" ViewCount="1465" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking for a chip- or coin-like item that has the following qualities of poker chips, but without the association with gambling:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;high quality materials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;approximately same size and weight (not paper)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;attractive design&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;multiple colors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does anyone know of something like this?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18708" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T18:20:03.793" Title="Poker Chip Alternative" Tags="|custom-game-pieces|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-10-21T17:42:41.487" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32799" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32798" CreationDate="2016-10-19T15:01:43.540" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Tiddlywinks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can buy small plastic discs from most toyshops.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11571" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T15:01:43.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32800" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32798" CreationDate="2016-10-19T15:08:46.487" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some Connect-Four chips are pretty much the same as poker chips, they even stick together in a cool way; that's the case for the ones made by MB.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1369" LastEditorUserId="1369" LastEditDate="2016-10-19T15:14:04.017" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T15:14:04.017" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32802" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32798" CreationDate="2016-10-19T18:20:03.793" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Most games of checkers have cool designs and stack and are pretty durable. They're obviously not poker chips. They generally only come in red or black, but I've spray painted them different colors to make generic Magic the Gathering tokens (the fact that they stack is nice for things that make lots of 1/1 dudes...) and they come out pretty good. Just a quick coat, let it dry, flip it and do another quick coat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can often buy checkers games for cheap from thrift stores.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastActivityDate="2016-10-19T18:20:03.793" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32803" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33038" CreationDate="2016-10-19T19:36:13.410" Score="9" ViewCount="335" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking through the &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milk_caps_%28game%29#Pog-brand_milk_caps_sets&quot;&gt;Wikipedia page for POG&lt;/a&gt; and noticed the following under the &quot;Sets&quot; section.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Pepsi (occasionally referred to as &quot;Forbidden Pepsi Pogs&quot;)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Despite having grown up in the 90's with quite the collection of POGs, I'd never heard them called &quot;Forbidden Pepsi Pogs&quot;.  I &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.google.com/search?q=Forbidden+Pepsi+Pogs&amp;amp;ie=utf-8&amp;amp;oe=utf-8#q=%22Forbidden+Pepsi+Pogs%22&quot;&gt;searched Google&lt;/a&gt; but none of the results seem to explain why they were referred to as such.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why are Pepsi POGs referred to as &quot;Forbidden&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5137" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T03:40:53.200" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T01:53:29.533" Title="Forbidden Pepsi Pogs" Tags="|terminology|milk-caps|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32804" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32805" CreationDate="2016-10-20T10:48:25.463" Score="0" ViewCount="338" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRaid%20Bombardment%5d&quot;&gt;Raid Bombardment&lt;/a&gt;. And I swung with a 1/1 creature, say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGoblin%20Bushwhacker%5d&quot;&gt;Goblin Bushwhacker&lt;/a&gt;. &#xA;Say I wait for the defender to declare blockers, and then use a pump spell, say &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrute%20Force%5d&quot;&gt;Brute Force&lt;/a&gt;? Would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRaid%20Bombardment%5d&quot;&gt;Raid Bombardment&lt;/a&gt; still trigger? Or would &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGoblin%20Bushwhacker%5d&quot;&gt;Goblin Bushwhacker&lt;/a&gt; no longer fulfil the requirement for a less than 2 creature?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18613" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T19:14:45.787" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T19:14:45.787" Title="Enchantments vs Instants in Combat Phase" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32805" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32804" CreationDate="2016-10-20T12:58:54.953" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As long as your creature had a power 2 or less when it attacked it doesn't matter what happens to it after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Gatherer Rulings for &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRaid%20Bombardment%5d&quot;&gt;Raid Bombardment&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The power of the attacking creature is checked only when the ability triggers. Once it triggers, Raid Bombardment will deal 1 damage to the defending player even if the creature’s power changes before the ability resolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, Raid Bombardment triggers during the Declare Attackers step, and will resolve before your opponent gets a chance to declare blockers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T17:19:03.757" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T17:19:03.757" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32806" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32808" CreationDate="2016-10-20T12:59:06.150" Score="3" ViewCount="10876" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can I cast sorceries in combat phase, or only instants? For example, could I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPress%20into%20service%5d&quot;&gt;Press into service&lt;/a&gt; after blockers are declared to take control of a declared blocker?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18613" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T15:56:43.693" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T15:56:43.693" Title="Sorceries in Combat phase" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32807" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32806" CreationDate="2016-10-20T13:00:44.707" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sorceries can't be cast during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;307.1. A player who has priority may cast a sorcery card from his or her hand during &lt;strong&gt;a main phase&lt;/strong&gt; of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Casting a sorcery as a spell uses the stack. (See rule 601, “Casting Spells.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T13:00:44.707" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32808" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32806" CreationDate="2016-10-20T13:01:08.763" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may only cast sorceries when it is your turn, during one of your main phases, while the stack is empty. So no you cannot cast them during combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;307.1. A player who has priority may cast a sorcery card from his or her hand during a main phase of his or her turn when the stack is empty. Casting a sorcery as a spell uses the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T13:01:08.763" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32809" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-20T15:51:03.363" Score="2" ViewCount="739" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have been playing the game, The Duke, and confusion came up regarding the movement for the Assassin tile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bft5U.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bft5U.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Assassin Tile&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on the slide rules, a tile can move as many spaces as they want in the shown direction until they would hit another tile, friendly or enemy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The jump rules state that a tile can jump over an adjacent tile to the space beyond it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the question is, for this tile with a jump slide, can the slide begin in the adjacent tile or must the assassin move at least two spaces away?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18714" LastEditorUserId="13572" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T15:52:14.157" LastActivityDate="2019-04-06T04:18:34.180" Title="The Duke - Assassin Movement" Tags="|the-duke|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32810" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32811" CreationDate="2016-10-20T20:22:23.107" Score="5" ViewCount="1883" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time I played &lt;em&gt;Star Wars: Imperial Assault&lt;/em&gt; with my friends, I played as the Empire.  If I recall correctly, during the first campaign mission (after the tutorial mission), the mission ends after round 6 if the Rebels haven't yet achieved their goal.  The Rebel players were understandably miffed when the mission ended unexpectedly.  This, however, conflicted with my reading of the rules, which state that the game is a game of hidden information.  I know, for example, that if an Imperial deployment can be triggered by a Rebel action, such as the opening of a door, the Rebels should not be aware of this.  The rules are not entirely clear on which parts of the mission scenario are &quot;read-aloud&quot; text and when those rules should be read.  Some things are explicit (&quot;Read this section in it's entirety when &lt;em&gt;X&lt;/em&gt; happens&quot;) while others are not.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;So, exactly what mission details should the Rebels be made aware of? Should they have been made aware of the &quot;lose&quot; condition so they weren't blindsided by the mission ending as abruptly as it did?&lt;/strong&gt;  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am looking for either A) a canonical or errata-based answer that explicitly states what pieces of information should be read out loud to the Rebel players from the campaign scenario and when that information should be read, or B) information from an experienced Imperial player that has dealt with this situation and can explain to me what pieces of information should be read and when.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules as they are written are not entirely clear, and there was nothing I could find in the errata or the FAQ that clarified this detail.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18715" LastEditorUserId="18715" LastEditDate="2016-10-20T20:42:19.240" LastActivityDate="2017-06-24T16:53:12.503" Title="In Star Wars: Imperial Assault, what information should be revealed to the Rebel players in the campaign?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32811" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32810" CreationDate="2016-10-20T23:28:34.470" Score="8" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Things the Rebels can know&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The mission briefing&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Imperial player reads the “Mission Briefing” section of the mission’s rules aloud to all players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Rules Reference:&lt;/em&gt; Mission Setup&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;The full effect of any triggered events (both story text and effects)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each event can contain any combination of story text and additional rules that apply to the mission. When an event is triggered, all of the text and rule information within that section is read aloud and resolved, in order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Campaign Guide:&lt;/em&gt; Mission Events&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that mission effects are either instant (marked with a ▶) or ongoing (marked with a ◆). The non-italicized text after the mission briefing is almost always an event of this sort, so should be read out loud.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rules referencing the mission ending or progressing (which are followed by the Rebel Alliance symbol)&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Certain rules reference the mission ending or progressing, followed by the [Rebel Alliance] symbol. This indicates that the preceding text is an objective that the heroes are attempting to fulfill, which should be emphasized to the Rebel players by the Imperial player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Campaign Guide:&lt;/em&gt; Mission Events&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Any previously stated rules&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[Rebel players] are always allowed to ask the Imperial player to repeat any current or previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Campaign Guide:&lt;/em&gt; Hidden Information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Things Rebel players aren't supposed to know&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Event summary&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This section is used for the Imperial player's reference only and contains abreviated versions of event triggers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Campaign Guide:&lt;/em&gt; Event Summary&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Effects not chosen when the Imperial player gets to pick an effect&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In some cases, an event will require the Imperial player to choose one of a number of effects, which can be instant or ongoing. When he chooses one, he reads the effect aloud and resolves it, but he does not read or resolve any of the unchosen effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Campaign Guide:&lt;/em&gt; Mission Events&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Anything in the Campaign Guide not read to them by the Imperial player&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rebel players are not allowed to read any of the information found within this Campaign Guide, but they are always allowed to ask the Imperial player to repeat any current or previous rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;— &lt;em&gt;Campaign Guide:&lt;/em&gt; Hidden Information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In other words, the Rebel players are allowed to listen to what the Imperial player reads from the Campaign Guide, but cannot read the Campaign Guide for themselves (since that would allow them to read something they weren't supposed to know). Note that this clearly says that they can ask the Imperial player about rules that have previously been revealed, so the Imperial player must have been allowed to tell them &lt;em&gt;something&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This seems to have been the rule you were rather hung up on. I agree it's probably bad wording, so I'd like to suggest this rewrite that goes with what I think is the spirit of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Rebel players are not allowed to directly read any of the information found within this Campaign Guide, but the Imperial player must read aloud any information that they are instructed to reveal from it. Rebel players are always allowed to ask the Imperial player to repeat any current or previous rules.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Your particular situation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I recall correctly, during the first campaign mission (after the tutorial mission), the mission ends after round 6 if the Rebels haven't yet achieved their goal. The Rebel players were understandably miffed when the mission ended unexpectedly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, this was something the players should have known. As shown above, the rules says that the Imperial player should read aloud:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The mission briefing&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;All triggered effects&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Rules that include the Rebel Alliance symbol, marking the mission progressing or ending in the Rebels' favor&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All three of these are present in &lt;em&gt;Aftermath&lt;/em&gt;, the first mission:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Mission Briefing&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;◆ The mission ends when all terminals are destroyed [Rebel Alliance symbol], at the end of Round 6, or when all heroes are wounded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the Rebels should have been informed of this point because it was in the Mission Briefing, was an effect, and had the symbol indicating that it was for mission progress and should be emphasized to the Rebels (in this case, that the terminals needed to be destroyed). And of course, the players are allowed to ask you to repeat it whenever they want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know, for example, that if an Imperial deployment can be triggered by a Rebel action, such as the opening of a door, the Rebels should not be aware of this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You are correct that in &lt;em&gt;Aftermath&lt;/em&gt; the Rebels should not be made aware of this ahead of time because it was not part of the Mission Briefing or any other previously revealed event. But once the trigger for the event happens (in this case, the door being opened), the entire event text must be read aloud to the Rebels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T00:16:48.077" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32812" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32809" CreationDate="2016-10-20T23:42:56.407" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catalystgamelabs.com/download/The%20Duke%20Rulebook%20Lo-Res_FINAL.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt;, the Slide and Jump Slide icons allow&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...a Troop Tile to move &lt;em&gt;any number of squares&lt;/em&gt; in the direction shown&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It seems that the icons are place on the outside edges as emphasis that their movement is not limited in that direction. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jahVK.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/jahVK.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;Screen shot of description of Jump and Slide icons&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8448" LastActivityDate="2016-10-20T23:42:56.407" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32813" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-21T02:39:29.167" Score="5" ViewCount="1120" Body="&lt;p&gt;In bridge, is there a penalty if dummy lays down his hand and places a spade with the clubs and it is not noticed by the players until the third round is played? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18717" LastActivityDate="2020-06-02T17:04:31.637" Title="In bridge, is there a penalty if dummy incorrectly lays down his hand?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32814" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32813" CreationDate="2016-10-21T02:56:23.350" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general guideline, all players at the table are jointly responsible for the play and management of Dummy's cards. Consequently, in accordance with Law 64 of &lt;a href=&quot;http://cdn.acbl.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Laws-of-Rubber-Bridge.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;The Laws of Contract Bridge (2014)&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 64 - Procedure after Establishment of a Revoke&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;D&lt;/strong&gt;. there is no penalty for the established revoke ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;3&lt;/em&gt;. if the revoke was made in failing to play any card faced on, or belonging to a hand faced on, the table, including a card from the dummy's hand, or ....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So although a revoke in Spades by Dummy may have occurred and become &lt;em&gt;established&lt;/em&gt;, there is no penalty except as provided in the recap of &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Law 64&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When any established revoke, including one not&#xA;subject to penalty, causes damage to the non-offending&#xA;side insufficiently compensated by the Law, the&#xA;offending side should transfer additional tricks so as to&#xA;restore equity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If no revoke occurred before the discovery of the Spade amongst Dummy's Clubs, then there is no basis for a penalty. However if one of your opponent's is competent at counting to 13, and you are playing for stakes above a couple of cents per point, then I would keep a sharp eye on said opponent in future contests. I have never known a strong player (meaning one who habitually counts as part of playing the game) to not immediately notice any error in Dummy's hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an aside: I am sure that every duplicate club has had a scenario like the following occur every few years:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Auction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pass - Pass - Pass - DIRECTOR!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;This hand has not been shuffled since last week, when I made 8.5 match points with my Right-Hand Opponent's cards for 1NT just in.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is how well strong players remember all 52 cards of a hand, even long after it is over and scored.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-04-17T16:35:10.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32815" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32816" CreationDate="2016-10-21T04:47:09.883" Score="1" ViewCount="666" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played TCGs before, most notably Yu-Gi-Oh and Hearthstone (aka Magic Lite), and now I'm looking to get into MTG with a few friends that already started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the past I've always preferred something like the Shaman from Hearthstone, or spellcasters in Yu-Gi-Oh. Styles of either aggressive-tempo or control (as far as I understand them). However I typically dislike things like zoo or extreme stall (read: Hearthstone Priest).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Looking around and doing a bit of research I'm primarily interested in either a red/blue counter burn, red/blue tempo aggro, or black decks in general (roughly in that order).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My question is, given that background, where should I begin and is there a particular way I should try to buy cards? Buying singles is the most cost-effective way to make a specific deck but I'm not that focused yet -- so should I buy a fat pack? Booster box? Etc etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you in advance for any suggestions and input!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18719" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T14:54:54.647" Title="Magic The Gathering: Where To Begin" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32816" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32815" CreationDate="2016-10-21T13:37:15.737" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hi and welcome to MTG!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, Magic is a game with many formats, similar to how Hearthstone has Standard and Wild modes. I'll list the most common ones for you:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Standard: Cards that were released within the last few &quot;blocks&quot;. Right now this is every main set released until now since &lt;em&gt;Battle for Zendikar&lt;/em&gt;, which came out October 2015. This format rotates cards out as they get older, kind of like Hearthstone's Standard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Modern: Every card that's ever been legal in standard since the release of &lt;em&gt;Eighth Edition&lt;/em&gt;, in 2003. Cards don't rotate out of this format, but if a card does bad things to the game, it can be banned from tournament play.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Legacy: Every card that's ever been printed, with some banned cards. Magic's been around since 1993, so that's 10 years worth of cards that aren't in Modern!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Vintage: Every card that's ever been printed, period. Nothing is banned in Vintage, although you are &quot;restricted&quot; on certain powerful cards. Normally you can play up to 4 of any given card in your deck, but restricted cards you can only have one in your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are the &quot;core&quot; formats, where you play with a typical 60+ card deck. Vintage and Legacy are almost certainly too expensive to recommend to a new player (competitive deck prices reach into the thousands), and even Modern is pretty pricey (competitive decks are minimum a couple of hundred dollars, and some are much more). Standard is not terribly expensive, but since cards &quot;rotate&quot; out of the format you won't get to keep playing the same deck forever.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to start playing, these competitive formats aren't the easiest way. The simplest route is to buy starter decks and just jam a few games with your friends! It won't line up with the deck archetypes you listed, but you can move on to building those later, when you have more experience. In the most recent set released, &lt;em&gt;Kaladesh&lt;/em&gt;, the starter decks are called &quot;Planeswalker Decks&quot;. Buy one of each and start playing with a friend, just to get a better grip on the rules. If you want, you can also buy packs (from &lt;em&gt;Kaladesh&lt;/em&gt; or from whatever set looks interesting to you) and add/replace cards of the appropriate colour to your decks, to customize them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you've played for a little bit and have a good grasp on the rules, you can start buying singles to build a deck for whatever format you choose (as yes, that is far more efficient than cracking packs), or if you want to play at a game store/more competitively, you can start playing Limited. In Limited, you crack packs and then build a 40 card deck out of the cards you got and play against other people. It's much cheaper (at least in the short term) than any other competitive format, everyone's on an even playing field because you're all opening the same kind of pack, and it's a very interesting, different experience to playing with constructed decks!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope this was helpful and I hope you have fun!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastEditorUserId="18563" LastEditDate="2016-10-21T14:21:07.320" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T14:21:07.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32817" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32815" CreationDate="2016-10-21T14:54:54.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Depending on how you want to play, there are a couple of ways to get started. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to just play casually or with friends, I could recommend an older event deck: Wrath of the Mortals.  The deck is no longer standard legal, but it's just below the powerlevel of a good standard deck. It has lots of spells and creatures that benefit from casting lots of spells.  It's a semi-tuned deck, but it has enough going for it to give you a good variety of the archetype. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you want to play standard or at sanctioned events at a game store, then I would look at some recent events.  At Pro Tours, professional players display a variety of powerful decks, and often times there are controlling/tempo decks that would be good to look at.  Since they are very public, these decks tend to be expensive, but they give you a good idea of what to look for.  There is often video coverage as well, so you can see the decks in action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T14:54:54.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32818" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32453" CreationDate="2016-10-21T15:04:07.367" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I think the thing to keep in mind is that it's a vampire game. At dusk, Dracula is waking up and ready to feed/fight, and he's got all night to do so. At dawn, he's in a hurry to get back into his coffin before sunrise, and he's getting weaker every minute that passes, therefore he's weaker at dawn than he is at dusk. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18726" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T15:04:07.367" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32819" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-21T18:04:54.307" Score="1" ViewCount="215" Body="&lt;p&gt;I work in an office with a good number of Magic players. I'd like to try and organize some sort of pauper cube style tournament that could be run like a &quot;season&quot; over the course of a couple months. With people meeting once for a long time for a draft and then having games against each other as they have time for the tournament. Maybe with a small buy in for a prize at the end. Are there any tools to manage that kind of thing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ideally something to take a lot of the paperwork off of my hands.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="753" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T19:06:57.337" Title="What tools exist to manage an M:TG tournament?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|tournament|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32820" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28116" CreationDate="2016-10-21T18:45:57.440" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;This card only affects a player when they have the highest HP and aren't tied with someone else.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, this is one of those weird phrases in games that's always used but doesn't make any sense as to why it gets used still.  What' we're looking for is the relationship between hp of players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the start of the turn, let's say I have 5 and Jim has 6 HP.  Jim will take 1 damage, since he has more hp than the other runner in the game.  At the start of the next round, we both have 5 HP, and nobody takes damage because nobody has more HP than anyone else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For a more complex example, lets' say I have 4, Tina has 3, Jim has 4, and Al has 2.  In this case, I have more HP than Tin and Al, but not Jim.  I won't take damage.  Jim will say the same, since he's got the same HP as me, and more than Tina and Al.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18478" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T18:45:57.440" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32821" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32819" CreationDate="2016-10-21T19:06:57.337" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;So this is a bit of an outside idea, but this website:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://us.leaguerepublic.com/gaming.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://us.leaguerepublic.com/gaming.html&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;is what our local store uses for their MTG leagues, and it works pretty well. Its also free (to a point) but looks like what you're looking for.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Otherwise, a whiteboard displayed in a publicly visible place can work great too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18478" LastActivityDate="2016-10-21T19:06:57.337" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32822" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32824" CreationDate="2016-10-22T00:12:41.410" Score="0" ViewCount="343" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWestvale%20Abbey%5d&quot;&gt;Westvale Abbey&lt;/a&gt;, it reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{5}, {T}, Sacrifice five creatures: Transform Westvale Abbey, then untap it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I just sacrifice 5 creatures? Or do I need another creature or sacrifice spell to carry out the sacrifice?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14206" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T11:29:32.747" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T11:29:32.747" Title="Can I sacrifice 5 creatures?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32823" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32826" CreationDate="2016-10-22T01:27:43.597" Score="1" ViewCount="17801" Body="&lt;p&gt;I control &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyromancer%20Ascension%5d&quot;&gt;Pyromancer Ascension&lt;/a&gt; that has enough quest counters on it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell (...), you may copy that spell. You may choose new targets for the copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I play &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrapeshot%5d&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt;. Suppose I've cast 3 spells this turn, so I will Storm 3 times if Grapeshot resolves normally. Pyromancer Ascension is going to copy it. Now what happens?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Grapeshot goes on the stack Stormed thrice, then the copy goes on the stack Stormed 4 times.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both Grapeshot and the copy goes on the stack Stormed thrice.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm not very familiar with the Storm mechanic or the copy mechanic. Please correct me if I'm totally wrong.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18090" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T13:52:20.817" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T13:52:20.817" Title="How does copying work with Storm?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32824" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32822" CreationDate="2016-10-22T01:31:17.930" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sacrificing creatures here is part of the &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;, so you can simply sacrifice five creatures (all at once) to pay for the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Costs are always things that, if you're able to spend the resource in question or perform the action in question, you can do so to pay for the ability. If something has mana or energy as a cost, you can pay mana or energy for it. If a permanent has an ability with tapping as a cost, you can tap that permanent to pay it. If it requires you to discard cards, or exile cards from your graveyard, or sacrifice creatures as a cost, you can do so to pay it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So no, you don't need anything separate, and in fact, you &lt;em&gt;can't&lt;/em&gt; sacrifice the creatures for anything separate. They're the cost for &lt;em&gt;this&lt;/em&gt; ability, and that cost has to be paid here, just like a mana cost would be - see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/23986/can-i-pay-two-different-costs-with-the-same-payment&quot;&gt;Can I pay two different costs with the same payment?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T01:35:20.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32825" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32823" CreationDate="2016-10-22T01:55:56.283" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither of those events happen. Discounting the illegal interaction between &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloven%20Casting%5d&quot;&gt;Cloven Casting&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrapeshot%5d&quot;&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/a&gt;, instead reference &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTwincast%5d&quot;&gt;Twincast&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHowl%20of%20the%20Horde%5d&quot;&gt;Howl of the Horde&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Simplest path: you've cast 3 spells this turn, then cast Grapeshot. &lt;strong&gt;When you cast Grapeshot, you create copies of it for each spell you cast before it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are 4 objects named Grapeshot on the Stack, 3 copies and 1 represented by the card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You then cast Twincast, targeting a copy of Grapeshot on the stack. You create an additional copy, &lt;strong&gt;but since you didn't cast this Grapeshot, the Storm effect doesn't Trigger.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;5 objects named Grapeshot are on the stack, 4 copies and 1 represented by a card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T01:59:27.983" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T01:59:27.983" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32826" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32823" CreationDate="2016-10-22T09:26:07.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Short answer: neither copy effect copies the copies made by the other. They only copy the one original spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Consider a hypothetical enchantment, Super Cloven Casting, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell, you may pay {1}. If you do, copy that spell. You may choose new targets for the copy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This specifies an ability that triggers whenever you cast an instant or sorcery spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The storm ability &lt;em&gt;also&lt;/em&gt; specifies an ability that triggers whenever you cast a spell with storm.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So here is what happens when you cast Grapeshot with Super Cloven Casting in play:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;We start with an empty stack and 3 spells having been cast this turn - in other words, a storm count of 3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(empty)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 3&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You cast Grapeshot (put it on the stack, choose its target, pay its cost), and in the process, two abilities trigger: one from Grapeshot's own Storm, and the other from Super Cloven Casting. These go on the stack on top of Grapeshot, though you get to choose the order. It turns out not to matter, so I will choose one order to demonstrate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Super Cloven Casting triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Storm triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority (decline to cast or activate anything), so the top item on the stack resolves. This gives you the choice to pay {1}, and let's assume you do so, so it copies Grapeshot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Super Cloven Casting)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Storm triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that the copy does not add to the storm count. When you copy a spell which was already cast, &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/29441/1499&quot;&gt;the copy does not count as being cast&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This is a copy of Grapeshot. It deals one damage to its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;&lt;em&gt;Storm triggered ability&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This creates a copy of Grapeshot for each &lt;em&gt;other&lt;/em&gt; spell cast this turn: that'll be 3 copies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Storm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Storm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Storm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This is a copy of Grapeshot. It deals one damage to its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Storm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Storm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This is a copy of Grapeshot. It deals one damage to its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Copy of Grapeshot (created by Storm)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This is a copy of Grapeshot. It deals one damage to its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Grapeshot&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4 including Grapeshot&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players yield priority, so the top item on the stack resolves. This is the original Grapeshot. It deals one damage to its target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Stack:&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;em&gt;(empty)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Storm count: 4&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All together, there have been a total of 4 copies of Grapeshot and the one original Grapeshot, for a total of 5 damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T09:26:07.873" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32827" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32829" CreationDate="2016-10-22T15:10:25.720" Score="1" ViewCount="504" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently began using tappedout.net to keep track of my cards and I couldn't help but wonder if there was an Android app that fulfilled the same purpose. Might you assist me in my search?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18696" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T16:36:05.200" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T16:36:44.877" Title="MTG Android App for Cataloging" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-10-28T21:18:25.550" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32828" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29833" CreationDate="2016-10-22T16:27:02.037" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;the bottom picture looks like Go, but with an unusual shape for a board&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Go_(game)&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18730" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T16:27:02.037" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32829" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32827" CreationDate="2016-10-22T16:46:15.887" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, there is. I was looking into how I could catalogue my own collection at a decent pace, and manually typing in card names just wasn't going to cut it. I have a Windows + Android device, so I went searching too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since you're using TappedOut, it would be remiss of me to not mention that TappedOut has its own Android app: the &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tappedout&amp;amp;hl=en_GB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;TappedOut MTG Companion&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which includes a &quot;visual collection updater&quot;: in theory, it lets you lay out your cards nice and neatly, photograph several of them at once, then add them to a collection. I say &quot;in theory&quot; because I've not yet been able to use it successfully &amp;mdash; I've just gotten an error when I try.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The app I went with to scan my own collection was &lt;a href=&quot;https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=delverslab.delverlens&amp;amp;hl=en_GB&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Delver Lens&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt;. Out of every Android app, it is the only one that scans cards &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; lets me output the list to TappedOut. (In fact, it's even got a custom export format prepared &lt;em&gt;just&lt;/em&gt; for TappedOut!) It does one-by-one card scanning, and it's a little finnicky but easy enough to get the hang of. Overall I was able to catalogue ~140 cards in a few minutes using this, then export them to my TappedOut inventory just fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All Windows and other Android applications I'd found didn't give me an exportable list, &lt;em&gt;or&lt;/em&gt; only existed to check market prices. Accordingly, I have &lt;em&gt;zero&lt;/em&gt; other apps to mention that perform this purpose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;I have no affiliation with any of the products I've mentioned beyond being a ordinary user, and I do not gain anything from recommending them.&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T16:36:44.877" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T16:36:44.877" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32830" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32831" CreationDate="2016-10-22T21:59:37.143" Score="3" ViewCount="4470" Body="&lt;p&gt;So, this is a basic question, but I want to make sure I'm getting this right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suppose I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTwincast%5d&quot;&gt;Twincast&lt;/a&gt;, and I want to bolt my opponent twice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that to do so I can do the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast lightning bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hold priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy it choosing a new target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, what I want to know is if I can cast lightning bolt, pass priority, and then, after checking if my opponent has a response for it, copy it. Like:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cast lightning bolt&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pass priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Oponnent passes priority back without putting anything else on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Copy lightning bolt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the forth move illegal? My spell resolves right after my opponent passes priority, without I having a second chance to put more stuff on the stack? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14492" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-22T23:09:44.670" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T10:43:59.593" Title="Can I have priority passed back to me during spell resolution, so that I can do more with my own spell?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|mtg-priority|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32831" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2016-10-22T23:26:23.230" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you wait for your opponent to respond and your opponent has no response, your lightning bolt resolves before you can twincast it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.1&lt;/strong&gt;. Each time all players pass in succession, the spell or ability on top of the stack resolves. (See rule 609, “Effects.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You'll only get a chance to copy the bolt if they respond, or if you cast both spells before passing priority the first time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7613" LastActivityDate="2016-10-22T23:26:23.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32832" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-23T00:39:34.120" Score="7" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;Wakanda, from the Marvel Munchkin DC expansion pack Mystic Mayhem, states that no monster can enter combat (via wandering monster, ect.). What exactly does this mean?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you use a replicate card, which states another monster appears, to add another monster to combat? Does it just mean you cannot play an actual monster card?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18733" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T02:02:35.700" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T23:32:26.480" Title="What does &quot;Wakanda&quot; actually do?" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32833" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32830" CreationDate="2016-10-23T10:43:59.593" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Each object on the stack, each phase (except Untap), and each step have this exchange of players passing priority. It is commonly referred to as &quot;APNAP&quot; or &quot;Active Player and Non-Active Player.&quot; The active player is the player who is currently taking their turn. Whenever a phase or step is entered, any abilities from cards that try to go on the stack will do so, and then the active player will gain priority. The active player will hold priority until that player passes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If, for some reason, you as the Active Player have 100 mana and 100 1-mana instant spells in your hand, you could cast them, one after another, in response to each of your spells, for example. Then, once you decide to pass priority after the last ability or spell is put on the stack, your opponent would have priority for that very last spell which tries to resolve FIRST. After it resolves or leaves the stack, the next spell would try to resolve and you would gain priority again until passed to your opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T10:43:59.593" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32834" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24990" CreationDate="2016-10-23T16:09:04.780" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My suggestion/workaround is to show everybody that you drew 3 'infected' cards, discard them and draw 3 more cards instead whether you're infected or not. If it's infected cards - do it again.&#xA;And yes we actually encountered this situation and it kind of messed the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18737" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T16:09:04.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32836" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-23T17:42:57.963" Score="0" Body="" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T17:42:57.963" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T17:42:57.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32837" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-23T17:42:57.963" Score="0" Body="Stay Away!, by Pendragon Games &amp; Escape Studios, is a game in which the players are members of a rescue team delving into R'lyeh." OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T17:42:57.963" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T17:42:57.963" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32838" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32842" CreationDate="2016-10-23T19:38:55.183" Score="2" ViewCount="620" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw &lt;a href=&quot;https://twitter.com/RoboRosewater/status/790266290917240832&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this tweet&lt;/a&gt; (of a neural network generated MTG card),  and tried to find a name for the ability &quot;Simic Commander&quot; has. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Using the gatherer I find &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=208003&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;some&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=382326&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;similar&lt;/a&gt; &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=393979&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;cards&lt;/a&gt;, but nothing with a name. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this kind of mechanic have a mechanical (preferably) or colloquial name? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2133" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-23T20:56:03.510" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T10:40:54.027" Title="Does &quot;when ~ dies, deal n damage to all players/creatures&quot; have a name?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32839" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32838" CreationDate="2016-10-23T22:09:22.907" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;A &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&amp;amp;text=+[%22damage%20to%20each%20creature%20and%20each%20player%22]+[when]+[dies]&quot;&gt;search&lt;/a&gt; on Gatherer reveals that there are only two cards with exactly this ability. Based on that, I believe that it is very unlikely that it has a colloquial name. It definitely does not have a name used in the rules; if it did, that name would be used on cards instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastActivityDate="2016-10-23T22:09:22.907" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32840" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32841" CreationDate="2016-10-23T23:00:08.440" Score="1" ViewCount="384" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a recent game of Miller's Hollow, the game ended when a werewolf killed a witch, and the witch killed the werewolf with their poison potion. In a situation such as this, which group wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The problem is, the rulebook says that&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Townsfolk win if they manage to eliminate all Werewolves.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Werewolves win if they kill the last Townsperson.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The timing on death is only described as the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Moderator will reveal the results in the morning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seeing as the Witch can heal themselves,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Witch can use either potion on him/herself if he/she wishes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that the answer isn't that the witch dies before they can act. Who wins?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18127" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T19:24:41.627" Title="Werewolves of Miller's Hollow Tie" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32841" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32840" CreationDate="2016-10-24T06:54:41.613" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes the game can end without any player alive. It happens sometimes. And in that case, the game is a tie.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With the basic rules, there can be as much as four deaths in a single night.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wolf eats hunter&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hunter shoots witch&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Witch poisons wolf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Civilian lover of wolf dies of love sickness&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All the actions are simultaniously. And winning is declared in the morning and right after lynch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By the way, during the day a complete kill can happen too:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Wolf and civilian lover vote for last player who happens to be the hunter.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Hunter shoots wolf&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Civilian lover dies of life sickness.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T06:54:41.613" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32842" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32838" CreationDate="2016-10-24T10:40:54.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Death triggers are common, but the EXACT ability that triggers is unique to Magma Phoenix. No other card dies and deals 3 damage to each creature and each player. In addition, no other card specifically just deals 3 damage to each creature and each player without some sort of additional restriction or specification.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I had to shorthand it to a friend who I know is familiar with a long list of historical cards, I would just say that it dies and Bolts all creatures and players, in reference to Lightning Bolt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T10:40:54.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32843" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32849" CreationDate="2016-10-24T11:29:34.760" Score="2" ViewCount="185" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I place markerlights on a unit that is inside their dedicated transport and subsequently destroy said transport, can I still use the remaining markerlights when I target the disembarked passengers with another unit in the same shooting phase? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14266" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T15:13:19.247" Title="Do markerlights put on a unit embarked in a dedicated transport remain on the passengers after the vehicle is destroyed?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|tau|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32844" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32847" CreationDate="2016-10-24T14:52:47.877" Score="1" ViewCount="1603" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rules state that you cannot have more than 7 cards in your hand at the end of a turn. Does this mean you're not allowed to play in such a way that you have more than 7 cards, or do you have to discard cards down to 7 at the end of the turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example if you have 6 cards in your hand and you trade 2 camels for 2 goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15176" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T16:12:16.423" Title="What happens if you have more than 7 cards in your hand at the end of a turn in Jaipur?" Tags="|jaipur|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32845" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32855" CreationDate="2016-10-24T15:21:13.233" Score="3" ViewCount="395" Body="&lt;p&gt;MTR 4.2 states: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a player adds an object to the stack, he or she is assumed to be passing priority unless he or she explicitly announces that he or she intends to retain it. If he or she adds a group of objects to the stack without explicitly retaining priority and a player wishes to take an action at a point in the middle, the actions should be reversed up to that point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, for a more recent example, if a player has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElectrostatic%20Pummeler%5d&quot;&gt;Electrostatic Pummeler&lt;/a&gt; and 15 energy, and the opponent has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrasp%20of%20Darkness%5d&quot;&gt;Grasp of Darkness&lt;/a&gt;, can the opponent let the 5 activations of Pummeler go on the stack, then kill the Pummeler under it? Or do the activations trigger and resolve independently and the opponent has to say &quot;wait, only 2 activations have succeeded, one's on the stack and I want to play Grasp&quot;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T17:38:02.817" Title="Are a group of abilities added to the stack all on the stack, or each resolves before the next one goes on the stack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32846" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32845" CreationDate="2016-10-24T15:42:23.300" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends entirely on how the player with Electrostatic Pummeler declares that they are activating the ability. If they say &quot;I activate Electrostatic Pummeler&quot; and then stop, they are passing priority with one copy of the ability on the stack. If they do this repeatedly, then at any point, the opponent only ever has the chance to respond to one ability. On the other hand, if they say &quot;I put 5 copies of Electrostatic Pummeler's ability on the stack&quot; or &quot;I activate Electrostatic Pummeler and hold priority (and repeat 5 times)&quot;, then all 5 abilities are on the stack, and the opponent can respond to any number of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T20:49:56.320" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T20:49:56.320" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32847" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32844" CreationDate="2016-10-24T16:12:16.423" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You may not take an action that causes you to have more than 7 cards in your hand.  If you have 7 cards in hand, then you cannot draw 1 card from the market or trade camels for cards from the market.  And you also can't trade more camels for cards from the market than you have hand space available.  So in your example, if you have 6 cards in hand, you cannot trade 2 camels for 2 goods.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18739" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T16:12:16.423" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32848" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32845" CreationDate="2016-10-24T20:40:20.460" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is up to the player activating the ability. The active player always gets priority when something resolves off the stack, but a player can hold priority after they activate an ability or cast a spell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is notable that you rarely would want to hold priority in a situation like this because of the scenario you describe; it is far safer to activate, pass priority, and then activate again once the ability resolves. If you activate an ability many times, then you've made your decisions with little information (the information being whether or not pummeler will be alive when the ability resolves). It is better to make each decision with as much information as possible (that is, the previous activation resolving). The only exception that immediately comes to mind is Split-second effects, where once you give your opponent priority they can cast a spell that you are not allowed to respond to. Actual applications of these spells are rare, and have no bearing Standard anyway.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastActivityDate="2016-10-24T20:40:20.460" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32849" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32843" CreationDate="2016-10-24T20:47:58.760" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. The markerlights are on the transport, not the unit inside. Remember they are separate units, and generally you can not target units inside a transport (template vs. open topped being the exception). Any markerlights on a destroyed unit are removed with the unit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The only way that would be possible, is if the targeted unit had a way to embark during your shooting phase. To my knowledge that's not possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note: In 8th edition, this is still true, except that there are no templates anymore.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastEditorUserId="154" LastEditDate="2019-04-09T15:13:19.247" LastActivityDate="2019-04-09T15:13:19.247" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32850" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-25T00:13:09.993" Score="0" ViewCount="173" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Thursday slot on the theatre section of the board in Trickerion has a penalty of -1 fame and -1 gold for any tricks performed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this penalty apply if you only have your workers backstage and do not have your magician on the performance slot. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is for the situation where another magician performs a playbill with your tricks on it without your magician actually being present at the theatre&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T06:03:05.730" Title="Penalties for Thursday theatre slot in Trickerion" Tags="|trickerion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32851" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-10-25T00:14:04.323" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Trickerion – Legends of Illusion is a competitive Euro-style strategy game set in a fictional city inspired by the late 19th century urban life and culture, where players take on the role of rival stage illusionists.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players strive to become the city’s greatest Magician by acquiring the most Fame points. But there is much more at stake than prestige alone. The audience’s favourite wins the contest for the mighty Trickerion Stone, a relic that grants supernatural powers to its owner, making him a true Legend of Illusion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T08:22:19.210" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T08:22:19.210" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32852" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-10-25T00:14:04.323" Score="0" Body="Trickerion – Legends of Illusion is a competitive Euro-style strategy game set in a fictional city inspired by the late 19th century urban life and culture, where players take on the role of rival stage illusionists." OwnerUserId="6501" LastEditorUserId="6501" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T08:22:23.357" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T08:22:23.357" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32853" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32854" CreationDate="2016-10-25T13:59:36.010" Score="1" ViewCount="819" Body="&lt;p&gt;On the monster cards, there are dials for both hearts and stars. The start dial goes up to 20 because that's the point at which a player would win.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does a player need to hit 20 stars exactly to win? Or can they have more?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;How high does the heart dial go?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18742" LastEditorUserId="18742" LastEditDate="2017-01-09T20:49:57.250" LastActivityDate="2017-01-09T20:49:57.250" Title="King of Tokyo: Number of points/hearts" Tags="|king-of-tokyo|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32854" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32853" CreationDate="2016-10-25T14:04:00.267" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;You do not have to hit 20 points exactly, you just need at least 20. While the rulebook doesn't state this explicitly, this is how pretty much every game works unless it specifically states otherwise. Getting 21 points DOES mean that you've gotten 20 points; just like how I literally do have $20 even if I also have more money than that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heart dial goes to 12 because certain card effects can increase your health above 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-10-25T14:44:02.393" LastActivityDate="2016-10-25T14:44:02.393" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32855" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32845" CreationDate="2016-10-25T18:15:00.357" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;The accepted application of MTR 4.2 is that &quot;I pump Pummeler 5 times&quot; is a proposed shortcut to activate the ability and let it resolve 5 individual times.  So you would not be able to eliminate the creature with grasp of darkness (assuming the other player wants to pay more energy to keep it alive.)  Yes this is different from playing the game by a strict reading of the comprehensive rules without applying the MTR.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reality is that 5 individual activations is the 'correct' line of play in almost every scenario that would come up in real games.  It's pedantic to make people sit there and say.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I activate my pummeler once, do you respond?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I activate my pummeler once, do you respond?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I activate my pummeler once, do you respond?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I activate my pummeler once, do you respond?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;I activate my pummeler once, do you respond?&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order to perform the obvious line of play people intend in &gt;99% of scenarios.  Around 2005 or so DCI started shifting judging policy away from meticulous enforcement of every comma and toward facilitating people playing the game naturally.  In the early days of tournament magic you were in fact expected to say it 5 times.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I didn't find a canonical reference for this from a wizards netrep, but here is confirmation from two high quality sources known to be written by people who are actually judges:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.cranialinsertion.com/article/818&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.cranialinsertion.com/article/818&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2013/04/shortcuts-adding-multiple-objects-to-the-stack/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rulestips/2013/04/shortcuts-adding-multiple-objects-to-the-stack/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1384" LastEditorUserId="1384" LastEditDate="2017-03-16T17:38:02.817" LastActivityDate="2017-03-16T17:38:02.817" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32856" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5093" CreationDate="2016-10-25T20:46:55.673" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;An excellent 2-player method for lots of expansions: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Use a 30-minute timer that is out of view of both players. Use all expansions you own mixed together in a big bag (The Traders and Builders bag will work). When the timer goes off, no more tiles or meeples can be placed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My wife and I are no strangers to Carcassonne expansions. We regularly play with: The Phantom, Inns and Cathedrals, Traders and Builders, The Princess and the Dragon (without the fairy), The Flying Machine, The Messages (without the second scoring meeple), The Ferries, The Witch and the Mage, The Gold Mines, and the Cult. We use colored dice on the scoreboard instead of a meeple, because we usually “pass go” 4-5 times each in a 30-minute game. We roll a die to see who goes first, then the first player chooses how to start - selecting one of the following: the original starting tile, the River, the River II, or the City of Carcassonne. We start the timer when the setup is ready and then play our hearts out until the timer goes off. Cleanup is easy. Just take out the starting tile(s) then shuffle the rest back into the bag.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We've tried lots of different methods over the years for balancing expansions and play-time, and this is definitely the best we’ve found. Because it’s only 30 minutes, it stays fun, and we often have time to squeeze in a second board game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18744" LastEditorUserId="18744" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T20:40:29.623" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T20:40:29.623" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32858" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32861" CreationDate="2016-10-26T16:21:37.627" Score="3" ViewCount="4597" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would like to know what happens to delayed abilities, or abilities like &quot;until your next turn&quot; when the controller of that spell/ability loses and leaves the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For instance, suppose you cast &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/magic-fundamentals/the-rumor-mill/760906-cruel-entertainment&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cruel Entertainment&lt;/a&gt;, and then the first controlled player kills you, the second player still will get controled by the first one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the first ability from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLiliana%2c%20the%20last%20hope%5d&quot;&gt;Liliana, the last hope&lt;/a&gt;, which says &lt;em&gt;&quot;+1: Up to one target creature gets -2/-1 until your next turn&quot;&lt;/em&gt;, will the affected creature restore its power/thoughtness immediatelly after the Liliana controller dies?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note this excerpt from this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/30149/where-do-delayed-triggered-abilities-live&quot;&gt;answer&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A delayed triggered ability (DTA) follows the same rules. A DTA is a&#xA;  triggered ability that creates instances of itself on the stack that&#xA;  are also called &quot;triggered abilities&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the effect from Cruel Entertainment a delayed ability, or is it just a effect whose effect spans more than the current turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14492" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T16:20:54.437" Title="Delayed effects after player's loss" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32859" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32858" CreationDate="2016-10-26T16:25:41.057" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Nothing changes for the other players, since the abilities have resolved and no control effects are for the player who left. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The relevant rule is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4a When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled. This is not a state-based action. It happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for &quot;until your next turn&quot;, there's another subclause about that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;800.4j When a player leaves the game, any continuous effects with durations that last until that player’s next turn or until a specific point in that turn will last until that turn would have begun. They neither expire immediately nor last indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-10-26T16:41:13.400" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T16:41:13.400" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32860" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32858" CreationDate="2016-10-26T16:27:21.473" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;If one of the players chosen in Cruel Entertainment leaves the game before they can control another player's turn, they are no longer a player and therefore cannot control anyone's turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If an ability specifies &quot;until your next turn,&quot; but you have left the game, the ability will last until when your next turn would have begun according to what the turn order was while you were still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T16:27:21.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32861" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32858" CreationDate="2016-10-26T16:40:27.123" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Cruel Entertainmet's effect will still work in full as long as the two targeted players are in the game, whether or not the player who cast the spell is still in the game. And Liliana's ability will last until her controller's next turn would have started.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The following &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Multiplayer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules about Multiplayer games&lt;/a&gt; are relevant:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4a&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;When a player leaves the game, all objects (see rule 109) owned by that player leave the game and any effects which give that player control of any objects or players end. Then, if that player controlled any objects on the stack not represented by cards, those objects cease to exist. Then, if there are any objects still controlled by that player, those objects are exiled.&lt;/strong&gt; This is not a state-based action. It happens as soon as the player leaves the game. If the player who left the game had priority at the time he or she left, priority passes to the next player in turn order who’s still in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4b&lt;/strong&gt; If an object would change to the control of a player who has left the game, it doesn’t. If a token would be created under the control of a player who has left the game, no token is created. If an object would be put onto the battlefield or onto the stack under the control of a player who has left the game, that object remains in its current zone. &lt;strong&gt;If a player would be controlled by a player who has left the game, he or she isn’t.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;800.4j&lt;/strong&gt; When a player leaves the game, any continuous effects with durations that last until that player’s next turn or until a specific point in that turn will last until that turn would have begun. They neither expire immediately nor last indefinitely.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Objects&amp;quot; in 800.4a refers specifically to the things defined in &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Object&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 109.1&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An object is an ability on the stack, a card, a copy of a card, a token, a spell, a permanent, or an emblem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Importantly, this does not include effects that were created by spells or abilities, and rule 800.4j explicitly points out that effects created by a player stick around after that player leaves the game. So if a player casts Cruel Entertainment and then leaves the game, the effect will still exist in the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-26T17:18:49.177" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32862" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-26T21:50:38.277" Score="1" ViewCount="565" Body="&lt;p&gt;Suppose you're playing (classical, not duplicate) Scrabble and it's your turn. My question is:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;What would be a good general defintion of &lt;em&gt;a best move&lt;/em&gt; for you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The definition could be of a theoretical interest only, but I'd prefer a definition which could be translated (at least partially) in program code in order to generate automatically the list of your &lt;em&gt;best moves&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some constraints of objectivity&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It might be argued that the concept of &lt;em&gt;best move&lt;/em&gt; is a subjective one. In effect, when choosing your move, you might take these factors into consideration:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent last moves, in order to evaluate the probability that he has certain letters in his current rack. Note that in general, you can't know &lt;em&gt;for sure&lt;/em&gt; what his letters are, except if there's no letters remaining in the bag.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent strength. Note that in general, you can't know &lt;em&gt;for sure&lt;/em&gt; if your opponent will know particular words or if he will see particular variations.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent style (open or close).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent psyche. This is what you exploit when you bluff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The three last factors apply only if you play against a human. Indeed, a program would theoretically be of the greatest strength and it would only care about playing a good &lt;em&gt;objective&lt;/em&gt; move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think that it is reasonable, therefore, to distinguish between two types of &lt;em&gt;best moves&lt;/em&gt;: subjective ones and objective ones. My question asks for a definition of the objective one, since it is the one which can be used . In other words, we must not&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18757" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T21:43:07.017" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T03:52:22.273" Title="What are the criteria for the best move in Scrabble?" Tags="|scrabble|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="8" ClosedDate="2016-10-28T12:53:14.297" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32863" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-27T04:40:39.143" Score="1" ViewCount="2591" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Blackjack, is the dealer's hand considered soft if he hits himself with an ace after dealing himself a hand which did not initially have an ace?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To clarify alternatively, is it only soft if his initial hand has an ace or is it &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; soft so long as he acquires an ace at any point in time (other than blackjack of course)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18761" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T16:18:16.867" Title="Is the dealer's hand considered soft if he hits himself with an ace?" Tags="|blackjack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32864" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32863" CreationDate="2016-10-27T05:50:07.330" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.readybetgo.com/blackjack/strategy/soft-17-rule-2496.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;this site&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Any blackjack hand that contains an ace counted as an 11 is a soft hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So it does not matter when the ace entered the hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T05:50:07.330" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32865" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32862" CreationDate="2016-10-27T08:28:21.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I hope I understand the question enough.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You could say, the best move is the one that gives you the most points. But that only looks at the current move, not the entire game. If your best moves gives you X points, but it enables another player to get X + Z points the overall effect of the move is negative. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you don't know the hand of the other players. So you need to use some judgement. If you can choose between two moves, and one of these has a high likelyhood that another player plays an even better move, you probably better use the next one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So you should play a move that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;give you a decent amount of points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;minimizes the obvious connections for other players.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;exploits obvious connections (so other players can't use that).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;preferably one that includes a lot of hard tiles.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T08:28:21.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32866" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32867" CreationDate="2016-10-27T18:50:16.917" Score="2" ViewCount="1264" Body="&lt;p&gt;Just started playing MTG and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFiligree%20Familiar%5d&quot;&gt;Filigree Familiar&lt;/a&gt; of 3 cost enchanted with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMarked%20by%20Honor%5d&quot;&gt;Marked by Honor&lt;/a&gt; with a cost of 4. Does the CMC of the Filigree Familiar equal 3 or the combined cost of 7? My opponent is using the card &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFragmentize%5d&quot;&gt;Fragmentize&lt;/a&gt; to destroy the Filigree Familiar, but we aren't sure what the CMC is equal to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18122" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-10-27T18:51:53.640" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T18:55:30.630" Title="Is the CMC of a creature that is enchanted the cost of the enchantment and the creature combined?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32867" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32866" CreationDate="2016-10-27T18:55:30.630" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The CMC of Filigree Familiar is always 3. The only time the CMC of a card changes is if it has {X} in its mana cost and it is on the stack (in which case it is the chosen value for X, other wise X counts as 0).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;202.3.&lt;/strong&gt; The converted mana cost of an object is a number equal to the total amount of mana in its mana cost, regardless of color.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-10-27T18:55:30.630" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32868" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32863" CreationDate="2016-10-27T21:48:53.007" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This answer is yes, a total arrived at with an ace counted as 11 is a &quot;soft total,.&quot; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes into play with the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.readybetgo.com/blackjack/strategy/soft-17-rule-2496.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;&quot;soft seventeen&quot;&lt;/a&gt; rule that reduces a player's expectation slightly (by 0.2%). This happens with a hand if a 1 makes it a 7, and an 11 makes it a 17. (The two starting cards might have been 3-3, 4-2, or 5-A).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally, a dealer needs to stand on a &quot;hard&quot; 17. With a &quot;soft 17,&quot; that includes an ace, s/he must redraw, and possibly make a hand higher than 17. This increases the dealer's chance of beating a player who hasn't busted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a player has starting cards totalling 11 or higher (e.g. 7-4), an A makes it a &quot;hard&quot; 12, because if you count the A as an 11, the player busts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastEditorUserId="1344" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T16:18:16.867" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T16:18:16.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32870" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32871" CreationDate="2016-10-27T22:59:37.990" Score="5" ViewCount="4047" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing a game of Commander with my friends a while ago and I had a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSeal%20of%20Doom%5d&quot;&gt;Seal of Doom&lt;/a&gt; in play alongside a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStarfield%20of%20Nyx%5d&quot;&gt;Starfield of Nyx&lt;/a&gt; and enough enchantments to make all my enchantments creatures. My opponent throws a creature removal spell at my Seal of Doom. In response I use Seal of Doom's activated ability and sacrifice it in order to destroy a creature. My opponent then responds by playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSnakeform%5d&quot;&gt;Snakeform&lt;/a&gt; on it. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My friend says that i can't activate its ability since it's no longer Seal of Doom and the ability reads &quot;Sacrifice &lt;strong&gt;Seal of Doom&lt;/strong&gt;: Destroy target creature&quot;. But isn't the cost payed once the ability goes on the stack and therefore isn't Seal of Doom already in the graveyard before his instant spell resolves? Or am I wrong and can you counter an activated ability this way?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18766" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T00:53:50.363" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T21:42:38.443" Title="When does paying activated ability costs occur in mtg?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32871" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32870" CreationDate="2016-10-27T23:25:09.367" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Costs are payed as part of the process of activating an ability. Once you start activating an ability, nobody has an opportunity to respond until after modes, costs, and targets are chosen, and costs are payed. So, the situation you describe should have played out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts a creature removal spell targeting Seal of Doom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you activate Seal of Doom's ability. At this time, you sacrifice Seal of Doom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent has an opportunity to respond while Seal of Doom's ability is on the stack, but they can't target it with Snakeform because it is no longer on the battlefield.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal of Doom's ability resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;activating activated abilities&lt;/a&gt; use the rules for &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;casting spells&lt;/a&gt;, and these are the relevant steps:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.2a&lt;/strong&gt; The player announces that he or she is activating the ability. If an activated ability is being activated from a hidden zone, the card that has that ability is revealed. That ability is created on the stack as an object that’s not a card. It becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. Its controller is the player who activated the ability. The ability remains on the stack until it’s countered, it resolves, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.2b&lt;/strong&gt; The remainder of the process for activating an ability is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2b–i. Those rules apply to activating an ability just as they apply to casting a spell. An activated ability’s analog to a spell’s mana cost (as referenced in rule 601.2f) is its activation cost.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2h&lt;/strong&gt; The player pays the total cost in any order. Partial payments are not allowed. Unpayable costs can’t be paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2i&lt;/strong&gt; Once the steps described in 601.2a–h are completed, the [ability becomes activated]. [...] If the [ability]’s controller had priority before casting it, he or she gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Keep in mind that the original creature removal spell never does anything to Seal of Doom. Seal of Doom is sacrificed and the ability resolves all before that spell ever resolves. So even if that first creature removal spell had been another Snakeform, it wouldn't have mattered.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;A Variation on the Ability&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would also like to clarify that even if the ability worked more like how your opponent thought it worked, they still wouldn't be able to stop it with Snakeform. Consider the hypothetical card &lt;strong&gt;Seal of Delayed Doom&lt;/strong&gt; with the following ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;{0}: Sacrifice Seal of Delayed Doom. If you do, destroy target creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The difference here is that the &amp;quot;Sacrifice Seal of Delayed Doom&amp;quot; clause is part of the effect instead of the cost, so you wouldn't do it until the ability resolves. If you had that instead, your situation would instead play out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent casts a creature removal spell targeting Seal of Delayed Doom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, you activate Seal of Delayed Doom's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In response, your opponent casts Snakeform targeting Seal of Delayed Doom.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Snakeform resolves, and Seal of Delayed Doom becomes a 1/1 Green Snake with no abilities. But importantly, it's still the same Seal of Delayed Doom object, just with modified types, abilities, and color.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Seal of Delayed Doom's ability resolves. At this point, it instructs you to sacrifice Seal of Delayed Doom, which refers specifically to the object that created the ability. So even though it's a Green Snake and doesn't have the ability, the Seal of Delayed Doom is still on the battlefield and you can (and must) still sacrifice it. You do so, and the targeted creature is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is specified by &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Name&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 201.4&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Text that refers to the object it’s on by name means just that particular object and not any other objects with that name, regardless of any name changes caused by game effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Split Second&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is one way that the opponent could have destroyed Seal of Doom without allowing you to sacrifice it in response: the ability &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Split_second&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Split Second&lt;/a&gt; prevents players from responding to it's on with other spells or activated abilities that aren't mana abilities. If the opponent cast any of the following spells as or instead of the first creature removal spell, then you would not be able to activate Seal of Doom in response or after the removal spell resolves:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKrosan%20Grip%5d&quot;&gt;Krosan Grip&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMolten%20Disaster%5d&quot;&gt;Molten Disaster&lt;/a&gt; (kicked, with X at least 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Death%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Death&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Shock%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Shock&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSudden%20Spoiling%5d&quot;&gt;Sudden Spoiling&lt;/a&gt; (would need to follow up with another removal spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTake%20Possession%5d&quot;&gt;Take Possession&lt;/a&gt; (would need to sacrifice the Seal of Doom while you control it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWipe%20Away%5d&quot;&gt;Wipe Away&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWord%20of%20Seizing%5d&quot;&gt;Word of Seizing&lt;/a&gt; (would need to sacrifice the Seal of Doom while you control it)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T21:42:38.443" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32872" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T00:23:27.063" Score="2" ViewCount="7755" Body="&lt;p&gt;The scenario is as follows...&#xA;Player a has 3 cities and 2 knights, player B has 1 city and 1 knight, and player C has 1 city and no knights. The barbarians attack and given the state of the board, they have a strength of 5 but only 3 knights are activated. Player C obviously loses their city because they have the least amount of active knights but does player A also lose a city because they only have 2 knights to their 3 cities?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18768" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T08:10:10.090" Title="Catan: Cities and Knights- barbarian attack with a differential of 2" Tags="|catan|catan-cities-and-knights|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32873" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32872" CreationDate="2016-10-28T00:41:50.230" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Only player C loses a city in this case.  It's because they contributed the least.  It doesn't matter how many cities an individual player has.  If player C had no cities (barbarians before), then player B would lose a city, since he/she only contributed 1 knight. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T00:41:50.230" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32874" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32862" CreationDate="2016-10-28T03:52:22.273" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Any move in Scrabble has a few effects on the game:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It earns you points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Unplayed tiles remain on your rack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You draw new tiles (usually).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The board changes, which can make scoring easier or harder.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This suggests that the best move is one that can maximize as many of these (sometimes conflicting) aspects:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It scores a bunch of points.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It leaves you with complementary tiles for future points, especially having a good vowel-consonant balance.  It often pays to forego a few points this turn for a good opportunity at a bingo the next turn.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It lets you draw many tiles.  This means more opportunities for getting &quot;lucky&quot; with high point tiles (JXQZ) or super useful blanks.  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;It shapes the board in a way favorable to your current gameplan.  The best advice I've heard is to open the board up when behind (for more opportunities to catch up) and to close the board down if you're ahead (for just the opposite reason).  &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You won't always have an obvious best choice, but the more bullet points you can achieve the better.  Bingos are especially important because they score a bunch of points and give you more chances of drawing important tiles.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10162" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T03:52:22.273" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32875" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32870" CreationDate="2016-10-28T05:13:58.903" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Paying costs is the final step while attempting to cast a spell, activate an ability, or satisfy a trigger's cost. The mnemonic device often used is &quot;&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;ll &lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;razy &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;eens &lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;ave &lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;ried &lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt;agic &lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;ills,&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A&lt;/strong&gt;nnounce your spell/ability that you want to put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;C&lt;/strong&gt;hoose modes (Izzet Charm, for example)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;arget any objects or players that are required by the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;H&lt;/strong&gt;ow does this ability affect those targets?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;T&lt;/strong&gt;otal your costs. Not just mana costs, but everything before the colon on &#xA;the ability (abilities read as &quot;Cost &lt;strong&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt; Ability&quot;). Find out what they are and make it known.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;M&lt;/strong&gt;ana abilities may be used here. They immediately resolve. Exceptions are abilities that have timing restrictions (Lion's Eye Diamond) or abilities that use the stack to add mana (Deathrite Shaman, which requires targetting)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;P&lt;/strong&gt;ay all costs. Tap all the tap costs, sacrifice all the sacrifice costs, pay all the mana, etc.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you do this, the ability is now on the stack. If, at any point, you can't complete one of these steps, you backup until you can complete the step, or you back all the way up and stop trying to put something on the stack that you can't properly process through the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T05:13:58.903" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32876" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T07:01:42.257" Score="1" ViewCount="482" Body="&lt;p&gt;The traveller score sheets were not filled up for two deals&#xA;What is the scoring  for the two pairs &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18769" LastActivityDate="2017-01-28T03:48:10.423" Title="The travellers score sheets were not filled for two deals how is the scoring done" Tags="|duplicate-bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32877" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32872" CreationDate="2016-10-28T08:10:10.090" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When the barbarians attack, they assume the strength of the total number of cities. Then we look at the total points of active knights on the board. When the knight points equal or surpass the barbarians strength, the Settlers are victorious. However, if there are more cities than knight points, the barbarians win. The actual difference does not matter after this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.catan.com/files/downloads/catan_ck_5th_ed_rules_150303.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;the rulebook&lt;/a&gt;, Page 11 (completely dedicated to the barbarian attack):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the barbarians win the battle, they pillage &lt;strong&gt;one or more&lt;/strong&gt; cities.&#xA;  [...] The barbarians pillage one city belonging to the player who has&#xA;  the lowest total strength of active knights [...] &lt;strong&gt;If various players&#xA;  tie for having the lowest strength of active knights, each of those&#xA;  players loses 1 of his cities.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, if that city had a Wall, the Wall is also destroyed. If a city is a Metropolis, it cannot be destroyed by the barbarians. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; counted when they attack, though.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your case, player C loses one city for not contributing any knights. If, for instance, player B had moved his knight on the previous turn and not re-activated it, players B and C were tied for least knight points (0) and both would have lost a city.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T08:10:10.090" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32878" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32879" CreationDate="2016-10-28T16:39:14.670" Score="2" ViewCount="336" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIridescent%20Drake%5d&quot;&gt;Iridescent Drake&lt;/a&gt; has the ability: &quot;When Iridescent Drake enters the battlefield, put target Aura card from a graveyard onto the battlefield under your control attached to Iridescent Drake.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I play Iridescent Drake if there's no Aura in any graveyard?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18773" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T16:41:42.793" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T16:50:45.917" Title="MTG What happens if the player can't fulfil Iridescent Drake ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32879" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32878" CreationDate="2016-10-28T16:41:28.947" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;If there's no valid target for the ability, nothing happens. After Iridescent Drake enters the battlefield, you put that triggered ability on the stack. This process includes choosing targets, and if you can't choose any valid targets, you simply don't put the ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;triggered ability rules&lt;/a&gt; describe exactly how this works:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3d&lt;/strong&gt; The remainder of the process for putting a triggered ability on the stack is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2c–d. &lt;strong&gt;If a choice is required when the triggered ability goes on the stack but no legal choices can be made for it, or if a rule or a continuous effect otherwise makes the ability illegal, the ability is simply removed from the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Casting_spells&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T16:50:45.917" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32880" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-28T18:22:09.120" Score="2" ViewCount="513" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was curious how abilities resolve during damage calculation. I was playing a game last night where Lightning attacked and wasn't blocked. She has an ability that lets her dull a forward. The damage step caused an ex burst that gave a forward more attack power. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The question really is when do abilities like lightnings resolve, before damage? After damage? Or after or before the EX burst?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18774" LastActivityDate="2017-03-23T17:28:13.553" Title="What is the order of resolution of abilities during the damage step?" Tags="|final-fantasy-tcg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32881" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33000" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:17:40.063" Score="2" ViewCount="295" Body="&lt;p&gt;My opponent rams my walker with his tank. No significant damage is incurred on either side, but my walker is immobilized and my walker fails to scratch the tank. What are my options on my turn:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can't shoot since technically I'm in combat, but can attack during my combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can shoot at the tank, and can attack in my combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can shoot at anything (in LOS) and can attack the tank in my combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Can shoot at anything, but if I don't shoot the tank, I can't attack it in my combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Something else?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If my walker isn't immobilized, what changes?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T18:22:51.753" Title="If my walker is in base with a vehicle can it shoot AND attack?" Tags="|warhammer-40k|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32882" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32884" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:32:44.410" Score="2" ViewCount="793" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently started playing MTG after a few years of inactivity. Decided to jump into Standard as I always loved the format because it was in my perspective a lot fairer for the newcomer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I used to play Esper control and today I faced a Temur Emerge deck. Now I was completely lost with the emerge mechanic. My opponent casted an &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElder%20Deep-Fiend%5d&quot;&gt;Elder Deep-Fiend&lt;/a&gt; and when I prepared myself to counter it he said that I couldn't counter. He tried to explain to me everything but I was left with the same thought: &quot;WTF&quot;. From everything I find I know that I cannot do anything about the casting cost, but why can't I counter the creature itself?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Like I said, it's a new mechanic to me and for some reason the explanation I got didn't truly make sense to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can you guys shine some light into this matter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9797" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-10-28T19:34:47.813" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T19:42:53.223" Title="Counter Emerge Spell" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32883" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32882" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:38:30.110" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can counter the Fiend, but you can't use a normal counter spell to counter the tap effect. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDF reads:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you cast Elder Deep-Fiend, tap up to four target permanents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is a triggered ability, it is not a spell.  So, after casting EDF (either normally or using Emerge) the stack is (1 top):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tap up to 4 target permanents (ability)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Elder Deep-Fiend (spell)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it is true that once he declares he is going to cast EDF using Emerge that you can't do anything until it is on the stack; so you can't kill the Emerge sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T19:38:30.110" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32884" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32882" CreationDate="2016-10-28T19:39:50.310" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your opponent was incorrect, you can counter creatures with Emerge. All Emerge does is gave the spell an alternative way of casting the spell, but you are still casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Your opponent may have gotten confused because even if you counter their emerged spell the cast trigger will still occur, and their creature is still sacrificed. In order to stop that you need a card like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSummary%20Dismissal%5d&quot;&gt;Summary Dismissal&lt;/a&gt; that specifically counters abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.118.&lt;/strong&gt; Emerge&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.118a&lt;/strong&gt; Emerge represents two static abilities that function while the spell with emerge is on the stack. “Emerge [cost]” means “You may cast this spell by paying [cost] and sacrificing a creature rather than paying its mana cost” and “If you chose to pay this spell’s emerge cost, its total cost is reduced by an amount of generic mana equal to the sacrificed creature’s converted mana cost.” Paying a card’s emerge cost follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2f–h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.118b&lt;/strong&gt; You choose which creature to sacrifice as you choose to pay a spell’s emerge cost (see rule 601.2b), and you sacrifice that creature as you pay the total cost (see rule 601.2h).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T19:42:53.223" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32885" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-10-28T23:28:48.820" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;My game, &quot;Win, Don't Lose&quot; is like that. In fact games with player elimination are often like that, such as King of Tokyo. Some players are eliminated, and then someone wins. The game ends and the other players are in limbo.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18775" LastActivityDate="2016-10-28T23:28:48.820" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32886" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32887" CreationDate="2016-10-29T09:14:32.477" Score="4" ViewCount="1636" Body="&lt;p&gt;I know if a spell that has been cast with flashback is countered with a regular counter it is still exiled, but what about cards that return the card to the hand like &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=373326&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Venser&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397881&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Remand&lt;/a&gt; or even a counter that returns the card to the top of the library like  &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=3345&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;Memory Lapse&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where does the flash-backed spell go then?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastEditorUserId="6676" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T09:33:38.647" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T10:57:34.177" Title="What happens to a spell that is cast with flashback when it gets countered by a Remand?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32887" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32886" CreationDate="2016-10-29T10:36:41.587" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;A spell that was cast using Flashback will always be exiled, no matter how it left the stack&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.33. Flashback&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.33a Flashback appears on some instants and sorceries. It represents two static abilities: one that functions while the card is in a player’s graveyard and another that functions while the card is on the stack. “Flashback [cost]” means “You may cast this card from your graveyard by paying [cost] rather than paying its mana cost” and &lt;strong&gt;“If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.”&lt;/strong&gt; Casting a spell using its flashback ability follows the rules for paying alternative costs in rules 601.2b and 601.2f–h.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T10:57:34.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32888" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32899" CreationDate="2016-10-29T11:19:28.747" Score="1" ViewCount="298" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you have a private gaming group and want to get into LCG games.  Does every player need to buy a set to build his deck ?  Or does the group buy one set and possible expansions and build their decks from cards available ?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18779" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-05T00:03:43.553" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T00:03:43.553" Title="Does everyone need a set in a LCG" Tags="|deck-building|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-11-04T05:17:41.707" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32889" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32890" CreationDate="2016-10-29T16:28:41.573" Score="2" ViewCount="530" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBound%20By%20Moonsilver%5d&quot;&gt;Bound By Moonsilver&lt;/a&gt; prevent a creature enchanted by it from crewing a vehicle? My opponent crewed a vehicle with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPyrohound%5d&quot;&gt;Pyrohound&lt;/a&gt; I had enchanted with Bound By Moonsilver and we weren't sure if this was actually possible.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18122" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-29T16:39:10.073" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T16:50:01.727" Title="Does Bound by Moonsilver prevent crewing?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32890" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32889" CreationDate="2016-10-29T16:40:31.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Bound by Moonsilver does not prevent crewing. Bound by Moonsilver has the ability&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature can't attack, block, or transform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Crewing a vehicle is none of those things, so Bound by Moonsilver does not affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here are the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Crew&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules for Crew&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.121a&lt;/strong&gt; Crew is an activated ability of Vehicle cards. “Crew N” means “Tap any number of untapped creatures you control with total power N or greater: This permanent becomes an artifact creature until end of turn.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.121b&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;A creature “crews a Vehicle” when it’s tapped to pay the cost to activate a Vehicle’s crew ability.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;702.121c&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect states that a creature “can’t crew Vehicles,” that creature can’t be tapped to pay the crew cost of a Vehicle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, the only way to stop a creature from crewing a vehicle is either with an effect that specifically says so, like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRevoke%20Privileges%5d&quot;&gt;Revoke Privileges&lt;/a&gt; as doppelgreener mentioned, or by keeping it tapped with an effect like on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMalfunction%5d&quot;&gt;Malfunction&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T16:50:01.727" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32891" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32889" CreationDate="2016-10-29T16:40:48.027" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't. Bound by Moonsilver says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature can't attack, block, or transform.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;... so that's all the creature is prevented from doing, and Crewing is none of those things.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Currently the only card that specifically prevents a creature from crewing is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRevoke%20Privileges%5d&quot;&gt;Revoke Privileges&lt;/a&gt;, which says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature can't attack, block, or &lt;strong&gt;crew Vehicles&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T16:40:48.027" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32893" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="24507" CreationDate="2016-10-29T22:16:09.493" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sure, we used to play Texas Hold'em that way. Winner takes the pot, runner-up gets his stake back. So, one winner, one 'not loser', n-2 losers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="51" LastActivityDate="2016-10-29T22:16:09.493" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32894" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32876" CreationDate="2016-10-30T01:44:50.317" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;An adjusted score is awarded on a board (in MatchPoints) as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pairs playing the board are divided into two groups for each direction - a &lt;em&gt;normal score group&lt;/em&gt; and an &lt;em&gt;adjusted score group&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pairs in the &lt;em&gt;normal score group&lt;/em&gt; are scored normally against each other, and a tie (ie half matchpoint) for each pair their direction in the &lt;em&gt;adjusted score group&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The pairs in the &lt;em&gt;adjusted score group&lt;/em&gt; receive an initial score of average (equivalent to tie-ing every pair their direction in both groups). At this point the recap total is unchanged from its normal value for the movement.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Now the scores are adjusted for all pairs in the &lt;em&gt;adjusted scores&lt;/em&gt; group for both directions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;non-offending&lt;/strong&gt; player that has been deprived of an opportunity to receive a normal result receives &lt;strong&gt;(Laws of Duplicate Contract Bridge - Law 88)&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;a minimum of 60% of the available matchpoints on each such board, or&#xA;  their actual percentage obtained on boards actually played if that is&#xA;  greater .&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;A &lt;strong&gt;not-at-fault&lt;/strong&gt; pair that has been potentially damaged by improper actions of the other pair at their table receives the better of 60% of the available matchpoints and their actual result. This award is termed an &lt;strong&gt;Average-plus&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In very rare circumstances an artificial result will be constructed for a &lt;strong&gt;not-at-fault&lt;/strong&gt; pair, in order to restore equity, and then scored normally.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;strong&gt;offending&lt;/strong&gt; player that has not been either grossly unethical or grossly negligent receives the worse of 40% of the available matchpoints on the board or their actual result. This award is termed an &lt;strong&gt;Average-minus&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The recap totals must be corrected to account for the adjusted scores awarded.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;An &lt;strong&gt;at-fault&lt;/strong&gt; pair that has been either grossly unethical or grossly negligent receives a matchpoint score at the discretion of the Director, subject to it being strictly less than the worse of &lt;em&gt;40% of the available matchpoints on the board or their actual result&lt;/em&gt;. Such an award would often be a zero score for the board.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, with results being completely omitted from a traveling score  but the boards having been played, an attempt should first be made to reconstruct the actual results. &lt;strong&gt;(Laws of Duplicate Contract Bridge - Laws 82 &amp;amp; 84 &amp;amp; 85)&lt;/strong&gt; If that is not possible for whatever reason, an &lt;em&gt;adjusted score&lt;/em&gt; must be generated as above. For a first offense I would probably award an &lt;strong&gt;Average-minus&lt;/strong&gt; to all players at the table. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is the responsibility of &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;all players at the table, both directions&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; to record the traveling score properly, so the identical award must be made to all players. The only exception I would make here is for a repeat offense by experienced players against novices; in that case I would award &lt;strong&gt;Average-minus&lt;/strong&gt; and a reminder to the novices, and a straight &lt;strong&gt;zero&lt;/strong&gt; and reprimand to the experienced players. &lt;strong&gt;(Laws of DUplicate Contract Bridge - Laws 89, 90-B-7 &amp;amp; 91)&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that a Director has an obligation to attempt to determine all possible relevant facts (the actual contracts and results in this case) before making any decisions. It would be quite appropriate (though not required), even once the actual scores had been retroactively determined and agreed by all parties, to assess a small procedural penalty under &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;Law 90-B-7&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; against both pairs at the offending table. Such a penalty would typically be 10% of the available matchpoints on each of the two boards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastEditorUserId="5073" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T02:02:13.333" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T02:02:13.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32896" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32898" CreationDate="2016-10-30T11:06:15.727" Score="4" ViewCount="348" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSentinel%20of%20the%20Eternal%20Watch%5d&quot;&gt;Sentinel of the Eternal Watch&lt;/a&gt; says, &quot;At the beginning of combat on each opponent's turn, tap target creature that player controls.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can the opponent activate a manland after this ability and attack with it to prevent getting the manland tapped?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7265" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T11:39:15.877" LastActivityDate="2018-06-28T04:44:59.473" Title="Manland and Sentinel of the Eternal Watch" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32897" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32896" CreationDate="2016-10-30T11:51:19.947" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, your opponent can do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Combat Phase consists of 5 steps: Beginning of Combat, Declare Attackers, Declare Blockers, Damage, and End of Combat. Entering each step causes certain abilities to trigger and those abilities will go on the stack before anyone has priority to make plays. Sentinel of the Eternal Watch's ability will trigger during Beginning of Combat, then the active player (the player whose turn it is) will gain priority and try to respond to that ability while it's on the stack, followed by the non-active player. If each player passes priority, the ability will resolve.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After the ability resolves, priority will go back to the active player, then non-active player if the active player passes priority to make a play. During this period in Beginning of Combat is the latest possible time that a player with a manland could activate its ability to become a creature that could participate in being declared an attacker. During the Declare Attackers step, attackers must be declared immediately, then players will receive priority after that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18620" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T11:51:19.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32898" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32896" CreationDate="2016-10-30T11:55:34.457" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can get around the Sentinel this way with a manland. I'll assume you have the Sentinel, and your opponent has an untapped &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_phase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;the &lt;em&gt;Beginning of Combat&lt;/em&gt; step in the Combat phase&lt;/a&gt;, all abilities that trigger at that point go on the stack. As part of putting the abilities on the stack, you have to choose a target, and that target must be a creature at that point per the ability text. So, by the time that ability's on the stack, the target is set, and can't be changed &amp;mdash; &lt;strong&gt;and it isn't the manland&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, the active player, and the non-active player, will each get priority at least once. Your opponent can activate their &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMutavault%5d&quot;&gt;Mutavault&lt;/a&gt;'s abilty while the triggered ability is still on the stack, or they can let that triggered ability resolve and then activate their Mutavault. (The latter is probably safer, in case you have something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRedirect%5d&quot;&gt;Redirect&lt;/a&gt;, such as the standard-legal &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bInsidious%20Will%5d&quot;&gt;Insidious Will&lt;/a&gt;.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then we move on to Declare Attackers, and their Mutavault is a Creature at this point, not tapped, and able to attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T11:55:34.457" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32899" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32888" CreationDate="2016-10-30T16:41:19.707" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Tl;dr: One set probably suffices for Limited play, but you probably need more than one to play Constructed unless you want to limit what people can build.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most LCGs (and ECGs, which are the same thing), offer two broad categories of play: Constructed and Limited. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Constructed play, you build decks from the cards available, usually with some restrictions like a maximum number of copies for each card. ECGs I'm familiar with come with &lt;em&gt;at most&lt;/em&gt; enough cards for a single player to build an arbitrary Constructed deck (sometimes many fewer, e.g. in Epic Card Game you are allowed up to 3 copies of each card but the set comes with only 1 of each). So to play Constructed, you'll probably need multiple sets, or you'll need to (potentially severely) restrict what each player can build. For example with one copy of Warhammer: Invasion and two players, you could decide that one player will build an Order deck, one will build a Destruction deck, and no one will use more than half the copies of any neutral card; with four players you could just assign each player a race.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Limited play, you build a deck immediately before playing, often using a random and/or competitive building process. For example, there's often:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sealed - deal each person a random pile from the communal pool, then let them remove cards they don't want until they're down to minimum deck size.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Draft - deal each person cards from the communal pool, then each selects a card and passes the rest to another person. Keep selecting and passing until everyone has a deck (or more than a deck, and then cuts some out).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many variants of these, and the ECGs I'm familiar with all support some kind of Limited play using only one set. For example, in Epic Card Game you can draft with up to 4 people out of one set.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-10-30T16:48:13.893" LastActivityDate="2016-10-30T16:48:13.893" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32900" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32917" CreationDate="2016-10-30T20:48:27.300" Score="1" ViewCount="342" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the third edition the Rules Reference book states that using Wolf Form causes Dracula to take one damage, but the rulebook and Wolf Form card both state two damage. Is this is an error in the rules reference book?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10042" LastActivityDate="2017-04-22T20:43:39.317" Title="Wolf Form - one or two damage?" Tags="|fury-of-dracula|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32901" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32832" CreationDate="2016-10-31T05:08:21.347" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As Replicate is just the Marvel Munchkin version of the Mate card, if you take a look at the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/faq/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;FAQ&lt;/a&gt; (search for 'is Mate an enhancement card') you'll see that it works like a Wandering Monster card and adds an additional monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that the Wakanda dungeon prevents players from playing either a  Wandering Monster or Replicate (or Mate if you're playing with non-marvel as well).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastEditorUserId="16123" LastEditDate="2019-04-10T23:32:26.480" LastActivityDate="2019-04-10T23:32:26.480" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="32902" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6670" CreationDate="2016-10-31T05:19:52.607" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To be honest I think the game function very well with only two players. In fact the best game I ever played was with just two people. I think it mostly comes down understanding the game mechanics that allow you to stop early attacks such as the air defense module and simply blocking their orders. If you're looking for ways to prevent super early aggression I have a few ideas...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Add a Planet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously this will change a few dynamics in how special victories are can be obtained but this is actually a recommendation made in the expansion pack rule book. With this they recommend increasing the point limit but in a two player game one extra planet will make a pretty small difference and allow for more room to breathe before players are able to attack each other.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No Mobilize Orders on Home Planet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During the first planning phase don't allow players to place Mobilize orders on planets with other players home base. Going through a whole round without threat of attack is more than enough time to prepare adequate defenses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Strategies to Prevent &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Getting the air defense module severely limits the other players ability to be aggressive. By dropping your base on an area with a high supply cap (3 or 4) and getting the module, this makes it so that they have to land elsewhere on the planet first before they can attack your base. This allows you to be the attacker and arrange the fight how you want. Another thing to remember is that if they are building a lot of units early on they may be preparing for an attack. During this time investing in some better buildings or upgrades can lead to you have one better unit than them which could make their attacks very hard in the future if you hold them off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope some of this helps. Like I said, I've played a fair amount of 1v1 games and they were actually quite fun. More people is a lot of fun but the game is definitely enjoyable with just two. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;P.S. as was mentioned before the expansion pack has some great scenarios, one of which is specifically designed for two players. There are also a few new mechanics that I think help out with the problem you mentioned, in particular the defend order which makes stopping early aggression much easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18789" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T05:19:52.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32903" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32850" CreationDate="2016-10-31T06:03:05.730" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook, page 17:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When having at least one Character on a Thursday slot, the player subtracts 1 from the Fame and Coin yields of all of his or her Performed Tricks, while when having one on any Sunday slot, he or she adds 1 to the Fame and Coin yields of all of his or her Performed Tricks. This also applies when the player’s Tricks are part of another player’s Performance, and when the player’s Magician is not present in the Theater. If the player has no Characters at all in the Theater when his Tricks are Performed, he receives the same Yield modifiers as the performer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems pretty clear to me: as long as any of your characters are in a Thursday slot, any of your tricks performed that week get the adjusted Fame and Coin, regardless of whether your Magician is present.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T06:03:05.730" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32904" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32905" CreationDate="2016-10-31T06:30:11.843" Score="2" ViewCount="1301" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can Jenny Barnes' use her ability to allow herself or another investigator to use acquire assets if the target investigator has already performed it? Typically you cannot perform the same action twice in one round, but would this special ability that induces an acquire assets action count as performing acquire assets twice? If so, one would think the same holds for disallowing a player to move spaces after they have moved before, counting it as a &quot;travel&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastEditorUserId="14416" LastEditDate="2016-11-02T14:29:07.997" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T14:29:07.997" Title="Can Jenny Barnes' enable someone to use acquire assets a second time?" Tags="|eldritch-horror|eldritch-horror-signs-of-carcosa|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32905" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32904" CreationDate="2016-10-31T10:53:27.847" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;No. This is similar to Charlie Kane's special action. The investigator must not already have performed the same action during the current round.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the official &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/e3/a5/e3a58886-072b-4ca2-9709-e723af370203/eh_errata__faq_2016-01-19.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;errata&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Can an investigator’s “additional” action be used to perform an&#xA;  action he has already performed in that round?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;No. An investigator may perform an action only once&#xA;  each round, even if he is able to perform an additional action,&#xA;  such as from the Ruby of R’lyeh Artifact or Charlie Kane’s&#xA;  action ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no reason to suppose that Jenny's ability overrules this limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For reference, here is the actual text of Jenny's special:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Action:&lt;/strong&gt; You or another investigator on a City space may perform an Acquire Assets action and gain +2 Influence during that action. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, if Jenny uses her special action to allow &lt;em&gt;another&lt;/em&gt; investigator to perform an acquire asset action (and gaining the +2 bonus to influence), she can, herself, still perform the acquire asset action normally (no +2 influence bonus).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13233" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T10:53:27.847" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32906" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32908" CreationDate="2016-10-31T13:02:35.177" Score="0" ViewCount="370" Body="&lt;p&gt;Recently played Orleans with a board gaming group here in Japan and ran into something interesting with the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We first played it a month ago, but this month when we played it, they told me got the rules wrong the first time. Specifically, it was claimed that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;the person highest on the development track gets all of the citizens from the unfinished beneficial deeds at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can someone show me where in the rule book this is? In the rules from BGG, I see&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The game ends after 18 rounds. Before you proceed with the scoring, the player who has built the most Trading&#xA;  Stations receives the remaining Citizen Tile. If there is a tie, no player receives the tile. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But does this mean all of the citizen tiles or just one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13951" LastEditorUserId="13951" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T16:12:27.263" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T16:12:27.263" Title="Orléans: endgame - beneficial deeds and development track" Tags="|orleans|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32907" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="591" CreationDate="2016-10-31T13:30:52.310" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;My advice isn't too different from the accepted answer, but there's a few points I want to emphasize that can be confusing for beginners and should be kept in mind.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Divide your thinking into roughly the three phases.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First off, your goal in phase 1 is to &lt;em&gt;save money&lt;/em&gt;. To accomplish this, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;expand slowly but not lethargically -- don't lose 10s but don't expand too much for expansion sake (the marginal benefits for powering on each new city are moderately low and get lower). &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;don't get tricked by the shiny new plants. First, you pay too much if you fight a lot in the auctions. Second, better power plants mean that you move up on the leaderboard -- which in turn means higher expenses for resources and later expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;do keep track of the resource market. If you are competing for resources, buy up as long as you can still do everything else you wanted on the turn. If you are not competing, keep track of that.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;figure out your price point for green power plants and never go over it (think about how many rounds you're going to keep that single-city wind turbine and how much it will save in resources and don't pay more than that). Also realize that going green helps other people buy resources more cheaply.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;In the first part of the game, don't ever fight over buying nuclear power plants. They are too expensive for the value due to the resource situation right now. Also, garbage is largely a bad deal unless other resources are highly competitive -- but since  you're not expanding aggressively, that expensive is felt by someone else (unless 3 players are going for the same type).&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In phase 2,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;expand more aggressively but try not to become 1st place. This gives you better chances of getting good deals on better power plants. Here, you're making a trade off between expansibility and position on that board.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;consider nuclear or trash but only if you don't see a lot of competition. Again, price in the fuel cost when considering nuclear.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;in phase 2, it's somewhat acceptable to make bids that are not perfect for you but might convince someone else to genuinely overbid.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In phase 3, &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;stop worrying about place on the board and worry about expanding to win.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;still keep track of power plant value but especially keep track of what others need. In many cases, someone will &lt;em&gt;need&lt;/em&gt; a 7 or 6 to have a chance at powering up and winning, keep this in mind when betting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;N.b. -- the phases here are how far into the game you are -- not necessarily the game's phases&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13951" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T13:30:52.310" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32908" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32906" CreationDate="2016-10-31T15:34:02.770" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The player would just receive the one remaining citizen tile that isn't on the game boards.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The game comes with 14 Citizen Tiles. In the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/107664/english-rules&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;rulebook&lt;/a&gt; under setup, section 8 (labeled page 12):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Place 13 &lt;strong&gt;Citizen Tiles&lt;/strong&gt; on the marked spaces on the game board and the &lt;strong&gt;“Beneficial Deeds” board&lt;/strong&gt;. Put the remaining tile on the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The part we are concerned with is the last sentence, where there is one Citizen that doesn't go onto any board space. On page 19, under final scoring:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;..the player who built the &lt;strong&gt;most Trading Stations&lt;/strong&gt; receives the remaining &lt;strong&gt;Citizen Tile&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the player who built the most Trading Stations gets the Citizen that was left off the board during setup.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In relation to the rule regarding the person highest on the Development Track getting any Citizens tiles from the Beneficial Deeds board, it doesn't exist. Those Citizen Tiles stay on the Beneficial Deeds board and do not get scored at the end of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T15:34:02.770" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32909" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29742" CreationDate="2016-10-31T16:45:40.693" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;I broadly agree with ruds, but want to give some thoughts based on Tom Au's comment on that answer and they didn't fit in a comment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is a confusion about a priori (prior) and a poserteriori (post-facto) knowledge going on here.  The fact that bidding 4H on 22 points will not make most of the time doesn't necessarily mean that finesses are better plays when they are available, it could be that most 22 point hands simply can't make 4H, or can only make when the lie of the cards is highly favorable.  When the game will make, it might well be that finessing is still a bad idea a lot of the time, because in these scenarios there is also a higher percentage line of play.  There may simply be fewer opportunities to finesse with 22 points.  Similarly, in 27 point games, it might be the case that when a finesse is available it is actually likely to be the right play because they are only commonly available in scenarios where other, higher probability plays, are unlikely.  What makes for a good line of play is based on the hand you see, not the unknown of the bidding sequence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't really think the latter is true, the former might be (experience tells me that cross roughing might be that competing line) but instead what I'm saying is that the analysis needs to be based on sampling a large number of hands, it can't be based on the sort of probabilistic argument you're proposing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18790" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T16:45:40.693" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32910" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2016-10-31T19:16:48.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are just getting into the game another Ratio, which is similar to another of the earlier ones is this.&#xA;20 Pokemon - including evolutions&#xA;18 trainer/item&#xA;22 energy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also for those just getting into the game you can make a decent single type deck of the cards you have the most pokemon/energy for until you get some better cards to split into the dual type decks mentioned in another of the answers above.  I Play the Pokemon TCG online game as i don't have money to buy the physical cards, or the time to play in actual competitions due to my two jobs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good luck and have fun.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18792" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T19:16:48.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32912" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-10-31T20:11:28.650" Score="3" ViewCount="1025" Body="&lt;p&gt;How does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHissing%20Miasma%5d&quot;&gt;Hissing Miasma&lt;/a&gt; affect a player protected by &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEnergy%20Field%5d&quot;&gt;Energy Field&lt;/a&gt; if their creatures are attacking?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, how does &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTainted%20Remedy%5d&quot;&gt;Tainted Remedy&lt;/a&gt; affect Energy Field if same player does something to gain life?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18793" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-10-31T20:48:48.127" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T20:48:48.127" Title="How does Energy Field interact with effects that say you lose life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32913" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2016-10-31T20:14:21.597" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Energy Field has no interesting interaction with either Hissing Miasma or Tainted Remedy. Energy Field only prevents damage, while the effects of Hissing Miasma and Tainted Remedy both directly cause life loss.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage causes life loss, but not all life loss is damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T20:14:21.597" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32914" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2016-10-31T20:14:42.400" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Hissing Miasma will continue to make the attacking player lose 1 life.  Losing life is not the same as damage. Since it's losing life and not damage, Energy Field doesn't come into play here. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T20:14:42.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32916" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32912" CreationDate="2016-10-31T20:18:01.167" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In both cases Energy Field does nothing because both Hissing Miasma and Tainted Remedy cause loss of life and not damage, so Energy Field can't prevent it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Damage to players causes them to lose life (assuming the source doesn't have infect), but loss of life isn't always damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;118.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Damage dealt to a player normally causes that player to lose that much life. See rule 119.3.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;118.3.&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect causes a player to gain life or lose life, that player’s life total is adjusted accordingly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-10-31T20:18:01.167" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32917" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32900" CreationDate="2016-11-01T11:09:26.830" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;It doesn't matter.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The section in the first page of &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/fury-of-dracula/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Rules Reference from FFG itself&lt;/a&gt;, titled &lt;em&gt;Golden Rules&lt;/em&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This Rules Reference is the definitive source of rules &#xA;  information. If something in the Rules Reference &#xA;  contradicts the Learn to Play booklet, this document takes &#xA;  precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If the rules text of a card or game component contradicts &#xA;  information from the Rules Reference, the component-&#xA;  specific rules text takes precedence.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus a hierarchy of correctness is established, so that the &quot;most correct&quot; statement is whatever the card itself says.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The card says two damage. Dracula takes two damage. End of story.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15436" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T11:09:26.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32918" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12720" CreationDate="2016-11-01T18:06:40.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is an iOS app (your question mentions not only a website, but a 'system') which is awesome for all boardgame tracking. It has great interface, lots of stats, integration with Boardgamegeek and Nemestats, and much more: &lt;a href=&quot;https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/board-game-stats/id892542000?mt=8&amp;amp;ign-mpt=uo%3D4&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Board Game Stats&lt;/a&gt;. (I'm just a fan of it)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5583" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T18:06:40.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32919" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13673" CreationDate="2016-11-01T19:24:43.293" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the attacker will lose one life per attacking creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability is a triggered ability,when a ability is triggered it gets a 2nd trigger if say a elf and another creature attacks you as well&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18801" LastActivityDate="2016-11-01T19:24:43.293" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32920" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32927" CreationDate="2016-11-01T21:54:51.667" Score="3" ViewCount="1152" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question regarding the movement of ships. The explanation could get confusing so I will try to explain it clearly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My ship, a cruiser, is attacked by an enemy fleet of destroyers moving from a naval port (total possible move of 3) during my opponent's turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Enemy ships all move two spaces to engage in combat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;During combat, my ship is destroyed.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;After destroying my cruiser, my opponent &lt;strong&gt;wants&lt;/strong&gt; to move the enemy fleet one more space into an adjacent sea zone containing 2 of my ships and initiate another combat phase during their turn. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is my opponent allowed to do this move and then additional attack in one turn? If not, are they allowed to use their remaining move during their Non-Combat Movephase to move their ships into the seazone where my ships are?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help in advance. If you need more clarification please ask.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18804" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T10:17:52.687" Title="Ship Movement Question Axis and Allies 1940 Global (Rules 2.0)" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32921" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-02T00:12:10.720" Score="18" ViewCount="1108" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCamouflage%5d&quot;&gt;Camouflage&lt;/a&gt; is a strange old card that changes how blocking works. The card text says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This turn, instead of declaring blockers, each defending player chooses any number of creatures he or she controls and divides them into a number of piles equal to the number of attacking creatures for whom that player is the defending player. Creatures he or she controls that can block additional creatures may likewise be put into additional piles. Assign each pile to a different one of those attacking creatures at random. &lt;strong&gt;Each creature in a pile that can block the creature that pile is assigned to does so.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of the situation I'm wondering about:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent attacks with two creatures, a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharging%20Rhino%5d&quot;&gt;Charging Rhino&lt;/a&gt; and a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBoggart%20Brute%5d&quot;&gt;Boggart Brute&lt;/a&gt;. The former can't be blocked by more than one creature, and the latter can't be blocked by fewer than two creatures. After they declare attacks, they cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCamouflage%5d&quot;&gt;Camouflage&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, I want the possibility of blocking both creatures, so I put two creatures in one pile and one in another (for simplicity, assume all of the blocking creatures are 1/1 Soldier tokens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, when the piles are assigned to attackers, I get unlucky, and the pile with one creature is assigned to block the Boggart Brute, and the pile with two creatures is assigned to block the Charging Rhino.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, clearly the single Soldier can't legally block the Boggart Brute alone. So my question is this: &lt;strong&gt;does the Charging Rhino end up blocked?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, I think there are two possible interpretations for the bolded sentence that change how this situation plays out. I think it could either mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each attacking creauture, if &lt;strong&gt;some subset&lt;/strong&gt; of the set of creatures that could each individually block that creature is a legal block, then they are assigned to block that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;or&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;For each attacking creature, if the &lt;strong&gt;entire set&lt;/strong&gt; of creatures that could each individually block the assigned creature is a legal block, then they are assigned to block that creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or it could even be something different from both of those that I haven't thought of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-11-02T18:05:46.763" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T16:25:44.083" Title="How does Camouflage interact with &quot;can't be blocked by more than one creature&quot;?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32923" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32921" CreationDate="2016-11-02T09:42:16.557" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In my understanding you assign every pile as described and then handle the last sentence: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each creature in a pile that can block the creature that pile is assigned to does so. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is the same scenario as with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLure%5d&quot;&gt;Lure&lt;/a&gt; on that &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCharging%20Rhino%5d&quot;&gt;Charging Rhino&lt;/a&gt;. As worked out &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/magicTCG/comments/278a7k/charging_rhino_and_lure/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;on Reddit&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of the &lt;strong&gt;rhino&lt;/strong&gt; the defender choses one, if the pile is &gt; 1. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In case of the &lt;strong&gt;brute&lt;/strong&gt; if pile is &amp;lt;= 1, brute is not blocked.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: To clarify a bit more, Camouflage states &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Cast Camouflage only during your declare attackers step. This turn,&#xA;  instead of declaring blockers[...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So &quot;Declare Blockers Step&quot; is replaced. Therefor multiple steps are resolved as statet in 608.2c &#xA;Since there is no later text that acutually modifies earlier text, all instructions are followed &lt;code&gt;[..]in the order written[..]&lt;/code&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First the defender's creatures are put into piles. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The piles are randomly assigned.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;And last go through each pile and creature relation. For every single creature an its corresponding pile Camouflage states that each creature that can block the creature (=attacker) do so. Since nothing else is stated the defender(!) assigns blockers following rules 509, esp 509.1c. &lt;code&gt;The defender has to follow the maximum number of requirements without disobeying any restrictions.&lt;/code&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;br&gt; So it is analogue to the Lure-Rhino situation. Only one creature is allowed to block the Rhino and the defender choses which one it is (out of the assigned pile of course).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regarding murgatroid99's comment: Camouflage does not exclude the process of blocker declaration, it modifies it. It inserts the step of creating the piles and adds the requirement that all creatures of a pile block the correspondig creature. Blocking itself must follow 509 rules. Camouflage does not state anything like ignore other requirements, the original card even comes with the example of flying creatures cannot be block by non-flying. (which seems to be ikegami's interpretation as well)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18808" LastEditorUserId="18808" LastEditDate="2016-11-05T12:14:37.797" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T12:14:37.797" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32924" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32925" CreationDate="2016-11-02T14:42:57.773" Score="2" ViewCount="614" Body="&lt;p&gt;Some time ago I saw a video of a board game designed for children.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This game features cards with &quot;levels&quot; depicted on those, similar visually to levels from a platform video game.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Those &quot;levels&quot; would have a starting point, finish point, obstacles (e.g. enemies) and goodies (e.g. coins) drawn on them.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;A player would look at the &quot;level&quot; card and draw a solid line leading from start to finish on a transparent overlay.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Then the overlay would be put on top of the &quot;level&quot; card. The more goodies the line is crossing, and more obstacles the line is avoiding, the better the player's score is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14416" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T14:51:05.467" Title="Game where you draw a path on an overlay" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32925" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32924" CreationDate="2016-11-02T14:51:05.467" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Maybe do you talk about the game &quot;Loony Quest&quot; ?&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/136991/loony-quest&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/136991/loony-quest&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I hope I helped you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18812" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T14:51:05.467" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32926" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32921" CreationDate="2016-11-02T15:07:10.183" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Camouflage replaces the declaration of blockers. This does not remove the Declare Blockers step, but it does remove the ordinary process of declaring blockers, which in the CR is referred to stepwise by rules 509.1a through 509.1i. None of these rules apply.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Instead, the defender does as camouflage says, and ends up with piles of creatures sitting in front of each attacker. Then then each creature that &quot;can block the creature that pile is assigned to does so&quot;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing to know is that restrictions and requirements on blocking ONLY apply during declaration of blockers, which is why you can block a flier with your own flier and it stays blocked even if your own one loses flying. However, because Camouflage says each creature that &quot;&lt;strong&gt;can&lt;/strong&gt; block&quot;, blocking restrictions apply, but &lt;strong&gt;requirements do not&lt;/strong&gt;!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What this means is, you look at restrictions only when seeing what the piled-up creatures block. Lure effects will do nothing. Flying, Menace and &quot;can't be blocked by more than one creature&quot; will apply, however.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My answer kind of falls apart at this point and I would love someone else to point out something in the CR I missed, because I'm not sure how to resolve the Charging Rhino case. The problem is that because we're ignoring rules 509.1a-i, we're also ignoring the way the game normally resolves contradictory requirements, which would be fulfilling as many as possible. The text for Camouflage does nothing to address that the creatures in a pile could interfere with the other creatures in their pile, so even if you take &quot;does so&quot; as a 'requirement' (which I do) it's not officially resolved in the same way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm almost certain a Judge would tell you to pick a single creature from the pile to block with (then ask why you're playing Camouflage in an eternal format). As for justifying that decision within the CR, I'm sorry but I'm stumped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;TL;DR, &lt;strong&gt;You must follow blocking restrictions as normal, while blocking with as many creatures from the pile as possible&lt;/strong&gt;. In your case, this means you must choose one creature to block the Rhino, and it is up to the defending player to choose. I am unable to quote the CR to directly back up this statement, but seeing as Camouflage's ability is close to a normal declaration of blockers, the rules were almost certainly intended to handle it this way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastEditorUserId="18563" LastEditDate="2016-11-02T19:04:26.140" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T19:04:26.140" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32927" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32920" CreationDate="2016-11-02T16:02:35.927" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here is a 2 part answer to your question: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Rules (&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.axisandallies.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Axis-Allies-Pacific-1940-Second-Edition.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.axisandallies.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/Axis-Allies-Pacific-1940-Second-Edition.pdf&lt;/a&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Move as many of your units into as many hostile territories and sea zones as&#xA;  you wish. You can move into &lt;strong&gt;a single hostile space&lt;/strong&gt; from different spaces, as&#xA;  long as each moving unit can reach that space with a legal move.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I added in bold the important part. During your combat move, you can move into a single, hence only one hostile space. So no he cannot continue to move to a second hostile territory afterwards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the Non-combat move rules: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;In this phase, you can move any of your units &lt;strong&gt;that didn’t&#xA;  move&lt;/strong&gt; in the Combat Move phase or participate in combat&#xA;  during your turn&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once again in bold, units that DIDN'T move can move in the non-combat phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Exception: I know that your question was about sea units, but tanks have a special &quot;blitz&quot; ability which allows them to continue moving after combat. Just look for the &quot;blitz&quot; ability in the units part of the rulebook.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hope this answers your questions.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-11-07T10:17:52.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T10:17:52.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32928" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32930" CreationDate="2016-11-02T17:08:23.463" Score="2" ViewCount="549" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've played Hearthstone for about 2.5 years and I'm looking to get into Magic. Since my favourite decks in HS are control, I'd like to try to get into Magic with a control deck. I'm aware a large part of playing a control deck is knowing what to play around, and how you use/save your removal. I went to a con recently where I played a couple of games with the starter decks, and the Blue deck was a lot of fun, despite just eyeballing what seemed good and when to use it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've played through the tutorials in Magic: Duels and I'm planning on heading down to my local store on Friday to see what FNM is like. I'm aware of MTG Goldfish's budget decks section, but I can't see any control decks in there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any good resources for finding decks (in my case, specifically control decks) that aren't going to break the bank, but will get me into MTG with a somewhat competitive deck for FNM? I've found things like TappedOut which lists a ton of decks, but has little explanation of what each one is or how it plays out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18814" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T17:51:45.827" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T17:51:45.827" Title="How can I find a FNM-competitive affordable deck?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32929" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32921" CreationDate="2016-11-02T17:53:41.993" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't leave the Charging Rhino unblocked because it's possible to block it, and you were instructed to block it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, you can't block with both Soldiers since you are restricted from doing so&lt;sup&gt;[1]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That leaves only two possible legal outcomes:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder 1 blocks the Charging Rhino, and Soldier 2 doesn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Solder 2 blocks the Charging Rhino, and Soldier 1 doesn't.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Pick one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Magic, actions are instantaneous. They are never being performed. For example, a card is never moving, a creature is never tapping, etc&lt;sup&gt;[2]&lt;/sup&gt;. The game instantly switches from one state to another. For example, when instructed to draw, the game instantly goes from a state where the card is on top of your library to a state where the card is in your hand. This is why triggered abilities look at the state of the game before or after they trigger; there is no state during the event that triggered the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yet, some actions can depend on the outcome of other actions taken simultaneously. This is technically impossible. In this situation, we naturally start imagining complex scenarios to explain what happens, but these have no basis in the rules. I've learned long ago to catch myself, and I now see that you have entered this trap. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The solution: You must simply find the legal state that is achieved from following the instructions. How the game managed to achieve that result is not important!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I find it reassuring that the above achieves the same outcome as if one were to follow the steps of Declare Blocks. But it doesn't resolve many other related problems, such as creatures that require paying costs to block. I would be tempted to interpret&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each creature in a pile that can block the creature that pile is assigned to does so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;as&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Follow the instructions of the Declare Blocks Step, except&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;ul&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Each creature in a pile that can block the creature that pile is assigned to must do so,&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Each creature in a pile can't block any creature other than the creature that pile is assigned to, and&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;li&gt;Creatures not in a pile can't block.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;I take &quot;that can block&quot; to mean &quot;that isn't tapped and that isn't subject to a restrictions preventing it&quot;. In other words, restrictions are still in effect even though they are normally checked during the declaration of blockers which was replaced.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Attacking and defending don't refer to actions being performed, but to a rule-defined state of the object.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastEditorUserId="2880" LastEditDate="2018-01-19T16:25:44.083" LastActivityDate="2018-01-19T16:25:44.083" CommentCount="13" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32930" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32928" CreationDate="2016-11-02T18:04:41.063" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the current standard, a few decks I would look for are UW control, Mono-blue Brains and BW control. UW control utilizes white sweepers and blue counter magic.  Mono-blue brains is a control deck that tries to play sorceries at instant speed. BW control relies on spot removal to keep the board clear.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Another site you might want to check out is StrictlyBetterMtg's youtube channel. He does a lot of deck techs, with a fair number of them being budget. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Reddit also has good resources, with a particular subreddit for budgets: &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.reddit.com/r/budgetdecks/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;budgetdecks&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For format information check out another question: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/32815/magic-the-gathering-where-to-begin&quot;&gt;Magic The Gathering: Where To Begin&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-11-02T18:50:54.860" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32932" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32936" CreationDate="2016-11-03T01:20:07.113" Score="3" ViewCount="1084" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am attacking with my only creature, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDragon-Style%20Twins%5d&quot;&gt;Dragon-Style Twins&lt;/a&gt;, a creature with 3 power and Double Strike.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;My opponent is blocking with two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGriffin%20Sentinel%5d&quot;&gt;Griffin Sentinel&lt;/a&gt;, which have 3 toughness.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After he declares both Sentinels as blockers, he flashes in &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDictate%20of%20Erebos%5d&quot;&gt;Dictate of Erebos&lt;/a&gt;, which says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever a creature you control dies, each opponent sacrifices a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How does Dragon-Style Twins's double strike work against the Sentinels?  Is Dictate of Erebos triggered after the first combat damage phase, which would require me to sacrifice my Twins before I can deal damage to the second one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13631" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T00:07:27.820" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T00:07:27.820" Title="Combat Damage Steps (Double Strike) and Sacrificing a Creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32933" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8285" CreationDate="2016-11-03T01:20:31.953" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Ant Queen is great for turn after converting mana into tokens, Wolfbriar elemental is great for late game wolf army creation, and Timur Sabertooth is a great way to use mana evacuating creatures which might be destroyed or repeatedly using enter the battlefield effects of your other creatures. Hydras and cards with x cost are ok ways to spend the mana but they are only able to help you mop up all your mana oncey. I definitely disagree with the previous posters that the only solution is more card draw, having a consistent ability among your permanents which uses mana maximizes the value. But if you do need card draw, shamanic revelations &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18816" LastEditorUserId="18816" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T01:27:07.147" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T01:27:07.147" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32934" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-03T03:08:15.440" Score="3" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTolarian%20Winds%5d&quot;&gt;Tolarian Winds&lt;/a&gt; says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Discard all the cards in your hand, then draw that many cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Seems simple, but my opponent and I disagree. I take the text literally, draw is directed at the controller - he tries to play it if worded &quot;Have target opponent (or any player)... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I tried looking at gatherer for this, but no relevant rulings. He claims 'house rules'. I say boo-ya, I want MTG rules only.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T16:23:41.367" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T16:23:41.367" Title="Which player is affected by Tolarian Winds?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32935" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32934" CreationDate="2016-11-03T03:26:09.063" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;You are correct, the effect will apply to the Tolarian Winds' controller. I believe the relevant rule is 608.2c:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;608.2c The controller of the spell or ability follows its instructions in the order written. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the controller is the one following the instructions they are the one designated by &quot;your&quot; in the card text.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7002" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T03:26:09.063" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32936" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32932" CreationDate="2016-11-03T04:21:58.350" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, you are correct. Double Strike, like First Strike, causes 2 separate combat damage steps. In each of these, players get priority, which means that state based actions happen and triggered abilities go on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.7b If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, &lt;strong&gt;the phase gets a second combat damage step.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;510 Combat Damage Step&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;    &lt;p&gt;510.3a Any abilities that triggered on damage being dealt or while state-based actions are performed afterward are put onto the stack before the active player gets priority; the order in which they triggered doesn’t matter. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T04:21:58.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32937" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3431" CreationDate="2016-11-03T10:54:00.840" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The recommendations provided in the other answers are good guidelines for casual play, these are the sorts of ratios that would be found in theme decks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It is also important to note that for competitive play, there is an emphasis on speed and reliability, therefore the ratios change quite drastically. &#xA;The ratios depend on the type of deck and the pokemon within, however rough guidelines for more &lt;strong&gt;competitive&lt;/strong&gt; play would be around:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 - 16 pokemon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;8 - 12 energy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remaining are trainers; predominantly card drawing trainers (with emphasis on larger draws such as discard and draw 7)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The pokemon in these decks tend to be of one energy type, or utilising colourless attacks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is &lt;strong&gt;nothing wrong with casual play&lt;/strong&gt; (it is actually the best and most fun way to learn the game), however these slower, less reliable decks, would likely struggle if they were played in a local pokemon league / event&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11777" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T10:54:00.840" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32938" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32939" CreationDate="2016-11-03T11:28:36.407" Score="0" ViewCount="1472" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHowling%20Mine%5d&quot;&gt;Howling Mine&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of each player's draw step, if Howling Mine is untapped, that player draws an additional card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;First, there is no bent arrow tap symbol, so how would it tap to begin with? The activated ability is dependent upon being untapped, so tapping it would just prevent activation? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Second, what one-drop could I use to make this work to untap for me, but tap to prevent everyone else from benefiting? If I had 4 cycles in play, that could mean 5 cards per turn? &lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T23:59:02.380" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T23:59:02.380" Title="Mining the Howling Mine" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32939" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32938" CreationDate="2016-11-03T13:02:04.097" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the first release of the game there were 3 different types of artifacts: Poly, Mono, and Continuous. Poly Artifacts were artifacts that had activated abilities that could be used without tapping the artifact. Mono Artifacts were artifacts that required tapping to activate their activated ability. And Continuous Artifacts don't have activated abilities, however their abilities stop working when they are tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=18&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Howling Mine&lt;/a&gt; was printed in Alpha as a Continuous Artifact, so its static ability didn't have an effect if it was tapped. The rules worked like this until &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=14777&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;6th Edition&lt;/a&gt;, and at that time the rule was mostly just dropped, except for a few cards that received errata to maintain that functionality. Howling Mine was one of those cards, but there were a few others like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWinter%20Orb%5d&quot;&gt;Winter Orb&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One-drops that can be repeatedly used to tap them would include &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrickster%20Mage%5d&quot;&gt;Trickster Mage&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVedalken%20Certarch%5d&quot;&gt;Vedalken Certarch&lt;/a&gt;. And yes, you draw one card for each Mine you have on the battlefield, so with 4 Mines you would draw 5 total cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside: with the right deck, you don't need to worry about your opponent having 4 extra draws / turn.  An example of this, is &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.mtggoldfish.com/articles/budget-magic-91-35-tix-modern-tutelage-turbo-fog&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;turbo fog&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="7881" LastEditDate="2016-11-03T21:35:29.943" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T21:35:29.943" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32941" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2073" CreationDate="2016-11-03T15:38:14.697" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;We do use the card Little Girl, but with different role. &lt;br&gt;&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNYFu.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNYFu.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;She is &quot;Half-wolf&quot;. She is a villager from the beginning (villager team). When she is bitten, she becomes a werewolf (werewolf team).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18821" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T15:38:14.697" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32942" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32943" CreationDate="2016-11-03T23:53:00.320" Score="-1" ViewCount="285" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlacial%20Chasm%5d&quot;&gt;Glacial Chasm&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Based on feedback a few months ago from here, I'm going to use this in conjunction with Donate to 'gift' my opponent some hell! However, one question and I could easily see this going either direction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When Glacial Chasm enters the battlefield, sacrifice a land.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, of course when it enters my battlefield, I sacrifice my land. However, once I DONATE it to the opponent and it enters HIS battlefield, does he sacrifice a land as well? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One could argue it does not say enters YOUR battlefield. Thoughts appreciated!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T00:23:45.060" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T00:23:45.060" Title="If I Donate a Glacial Chasm, will my opponent have to sacrifice a land?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32943" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32942" CreationDate="2016-11-03T23:56:49.503" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is only 1 battlefield, so donating Glacial Chasm doesn't make it re-enter the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;403.3. Permanents exist only on the battlefield. Every object on the battlefield is a permanent. See rule 110, “Permanents.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;403.5 Previously, the battlefield was called the “in-play zone.” Cards that were printed with text that contains the phrases “in play,” “from play,” “into play,” or the like are referring to the battlefield. Cards that were printed with that text have received errata in the Oracle card reference.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, since it has cumulative upkeep, the opponent could just choose not to pay the upkeep and have to sacrifice the land.  If you could donate at instant speed, it could essentially be a fog, but only for one turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-03T23:56:49.503" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32944" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:39:14.290" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Signs of Carcosa&lt;/em&gt; is a small-box expansion to Eldritch Horror that focuses on Hastur and the other world of Lost Carcosa. It was first published in 2016 by Fantasy Flight Games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External links:&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgameexpansion/197586/eldritch-horror-signs-carcosa&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/news/2016/4/8/signs-of-carcosa/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Official website&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T04:24:04.003" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T04:24:04.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32945" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-04T00:39:14.290" Score="0" Body="A small-box expansion to Eldritch Horror that focuses on Hastur and the other world of Lost Carcosa." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T04:24:08.287" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T04:24:08.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32946" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32950" CreationDate="2016-11-04T01:16:22.520" Score="0" ViewCount="237" Body="&lt;p&gt;Looking for a really superb and evil combo to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDONATE%5d&quot;&gt;DONATE&lt;/a&gt; a 'gift' to my opponent. So far I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGlacial%20Chasm%5d&quot;&gt;Glacial Chasm&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThought%20Lash%5d&quot;&gt;Thought Lash&lt;/a&gt;. I want something that is not easily gotten rid of once the 'gift' is delivered. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing blue control but heavy artifact. Goals are lockdown and kill his library. Thoughts and comments welcome. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="5001" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T02:38:51.847" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T04:24:08.847" Title="Donate Combo Needed" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ClosedDate="2016-11-04T05:18:00.427" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32947" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:12:23.940" Score="1" ViewCount="98" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say that partners meld and made one clean book (A's-140 points and one dirty book of 8's-80 points=220). The other team went out.  The partners had cards remaining from their hand plus those in their foot=300 points.   The points left in their hand and foot equaled more than the points left on the board.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can they count the books as books (one clean and one dirty=800 points) even though they had to use some of the points from the books to cover the points left in their hand and foot?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18823" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T03:48:00.273" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T18:53:28.153" Title="Can books be counted as books even if some points were used to cover points left in the hand and foot?" Tags="|hand-and-foot|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32948" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:43:21.647" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Milk caps&lt;/em&gt;, also known by the brand name &quot;Pog&quot;, is a game in which players use &quot;slammers&quot; to try and flip flat, cardboard discs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milk_caps_(game)&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T06:11:30.047" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T06:11:30.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32949" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-04T03:43:21.647" Score="0" Body="Also known by the brand name &quot;Pog&quot;. A game in which players use &quot;slammers&quot; to try and flip flat, cardboard discs." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T06:11:34.427" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T06:11:34.427" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32950" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32946" CreationDate="2016-11-04T04:24:08.847" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bZedruu%20the%20Greathearted%5d&quot;&gt;Zedruu the Greathearted&lt;/a&gt; decklists are good sources of cards to use in combination with donate mechanics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Depending on what you want to do there are a number of options, but some would require you to add an extra color to your deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example to slow down and opponent's board state there are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSteel%20Golem%5d&quot;&gt;Steel Golem&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrid%20Monitor%5d&quot;&gt;Grid Monitor&lt;/a&gt;,&#xA;and for dealing damage there are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRust%20Elemental%5d&quot;&gt;Rust Elemental&lt;/a&gt;, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJinxed%20Idol%5d&quot;&gt;Jinxed Idol&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBronze%20Bombshell%5d&quot;&gt;Bronze Bombshell&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T04:24:08.847" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32951" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-04T12:21:52.043" Score="1" ViewCount="290" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWar-wing%20Siren%5d&quot;&gt;War-wing Siren&lt;/a&gt; has the Heroic ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever you cast a spell that targets War-Wing Siren, put a +1/+1 counter on War-Wing Siren.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCaptain%20Of%20the%20Watch%5d&quot;&gt;Captain Of the Watch&lt;/a&gt; states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&quot;Other Soldier creatures you control get +1/+1 and have vigilance.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With Siren in play under my control, I cast Captain Of Watch. The Captain has an effect on Siren: +1/+1 and vigilance.  Does this count as casting a spell that targets Siren?  Should Siren get a +1/+1 counter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I see &quot;Target&quot; to mean the recipient of some spell or effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18826" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-04T16:22:50.453" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T09:32:13.937" Title="Does Heroic trigger on a static effect?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:21:45.957" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32952" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32951" CreationDate="2016-11-04T12:38:12.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the Siren does not receive a +1/+1 counter. Although your understanding of the word 'Target' makes sense in english, it has a rather specific meaning in Magic. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A creature is only targeted by spells or abilities that actually have the word 'target' on it. For instance, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2016/docs/MagicCompRules_CN2_Update_20160826.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1a An instant or sorcery spell is targeted if its spell ability identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Siren needs to be identified as that '&lt;em&gt;target [something]&lt;/em&gt;' in order for Heroic to trigger. On instants and sorceries, this is spelled out; casting an Aura (ie &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnholy%20Strength%5d&quot;&gt;Unholy Strength&lt;/a&gt;) on War-Wing Siren also triggers the Heroic ability, as they have an implicit target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1b Aura spells are always targeted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting an equipment would not trigger the ability, as they enter play unattached and not targeting anything.  Their equip-ability is not the same as 'casting a spell', so it doesn't trigger Heroic. The same goes for other activated abilities with a target (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSpikeshot%20Goblin%5d&quot;&gt;Spikeshot Goblin&lt;/a&gt; does not trigger Heroic, also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/18464/do-cards-with-abilities-that-target-trigger-heroic?rq=1&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To look a little closer at what spells do and do not target the War-Wing Siren:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTwiddle%5d&quot;&gt;Twiddle&lt;/a&gt; would trigger the Heroic ability. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTurnabout%5d&quot;&gt;Turnabout&lt;/a&gt; wouldn't, because the card doesn't target a creature, it targets a player. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCall%20to%20Glory%5d&quot;&gt;Call to Glory&lt;/a&gt; would not trigger the Siren's Heroic ability, as it doesn't target anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Thanks to @diego for suggesting these cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T09:32:13.937" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32953" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32921" CreationDate="2016-11-04T20:35:55.617" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Camouflage replaces the declaration of blockers, so none of the rules that usually apply to declaring blockers are used here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The key sentence is &quot;Each creature in a pile that can block the creature that pile is assigned to does so.&quot; So, for each creature, we check &lt;strong&gt;individually&lt;/strong&gt; if that creature can block the creature that it is assigned to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That means that Charging Rhino can be blocked by any number of creatures using Camouflage, because each creature individually can block it. Also, Boggart Brute can not be blocked by any creature, even if there are several creatures in the pile assigned to it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is not especific rule that I can quote to show that each creature is checked individually, but the first ruling on &lt;a href=&quot;http://magiccards.info/pc/en/13.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Retether&lt;/a&gt; in a somewhat similar situation says to check each card individually.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2474" LastActivityDate="2016-11-04T20:35:55.617" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32954" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-05T09:04:21.833" Score="2" ViewCount="394" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDepala%2c%20Pilot%20Exemplar%5d&quot;&gt;Depala, Pilot Exemplar&lt;/a&gt; becomes tapped you can reveal cards from your library and get some out of there:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Depala, Pilot Exemplar becomes tapped, you may pay {X}. If you do, reveal the top X cards of your library, put all Dwarf and Vehicle cards from among them into your hand, then put the rest on the bottom of your library in a random order.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean that as you tap Depala to attack you search right then, even before you tap other attackers, or can you wait until say the second main phase, after combat, to pay X and then search?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18347" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-05T13:55:22.457" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T16:17:21.233" Title="When does Depala's ability happen?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32956" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32954" CreationDate="2016-11-05T13:54:11.170" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;The ability triggers and is resolved after you have declared all of your attackers, and before blockers are declared, during combat. (It won't trigger &lt;em&gt;in the middle of&lt;/em&gt; declaring attackers.) Breaking down the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Declare_attackers_step&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Declare Attackers Step&lt;/a&gt; (itself the second step of the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_phase&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;combat phase&lt;/a&gt;) we get:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the active player declares attackers. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;(skipped: most of the steps on how this plays out)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1f&lt;/strong&gt; The active player taps the chosen creatures. Tapping a creature when it’s declared as an attacker isn’t a cost; attacking simply causes creatures to become tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, first, you choose &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of your attackers, and they all get tapped as part of that process.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, the active player gets priority. (See rule 116, “Timing and Priority.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.2b&lt;/strong&gt; Any abilities that triggered on attackers being declared or that triggered during the process described in rules 508.1 are put onto the stack before the active player gets priority; the order in which they triggered doesn’t matter. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that you've chosen your attackers, &lt;em&gt;&lt;strong&gt;all&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/em&gt; of the abilities that triggered during that process are put on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, at this point, just after all attackers are declared, Depala's ability is to be put on the stack. As it resolves, you can pay {X}, reveal the top X cards of your library, and then take the dwarves and vehicles from it and put them in your hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then you still have priority, and can still cast instants and so on — &lt;em&gt;then&lt;/em&gt; once you've got nothing else to do, we move on to declaring blockers, then combat damage, then end of combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This also means, to your specific questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You don't tap Depala as an attacker, use her ability, then declare more attackers. All attackers are already declared.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do not and cannot wait until after combat. The ability is triggered and resolves right there in the middle of combat, after declaring attackers, and before moving on to declaring blockers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T16:17:21.233" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32957" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32954" CreationDate="2016-11-05T13:55:46.020" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no game time &amp;quot;before you tap other attackers&amp;quot;. You don't get to declare attackers twice:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;506.1. The combat phase has five steps, which proceed in order: beginning of combat, declare attackers, declare blockers, combat damage, and end of combat. […]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Rule 508 describes the steps to follow during the declare attackers step:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1. First, the active player declares attackers. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. To declare attackers, the active player follows the steps below, in order. If at any point during the declaration of attackers, the active player is unable to comply with any of the steps listed below, the declaration is illegal; the game returns to the moment before the declaration (see rule 720, “Handling Illegal Actions”).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[…]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.1f The active player taps the chosen creatures. Tapping a creature when it’s declared as an attacker isn’t a cost; attacking simply causes creatures to become tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;[…]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;508.2. Second, the active player gets priority. (See rule 116, “Timing and Priority.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability will trigger immediately when the creatures are tapped, but, as always, it does not resolve until all players pass priority, which cannot happen before they get it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18318" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T13:55:46.020" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32958" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3773" CreationDate="2016-11-05T20:16:03.320" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd suggest than any of these games would be both fun and really helpful:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1)  Snake Oil&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Snake Oil is a party game where the players create a products to pitch to prospective buyers.  The game is a lot of fun and it is extremely rich linguistically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: relative clauses, describing, pronunciation of compound nouns, linking ideas, clauses of contrast, negative inversion for emphasis, making a convincing pitch.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2)  Deception: Murder in Hong Kong&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Deception: Murder in Hong Kong, players have to work together solve a murder case based on some clues that they are given.  The kicker is that one of the players will be the murderer! In fact there are a total of 5 different roles available, and these are randomly allocated at the outset with each role playing quite differently.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: comparing and contrasting, vocabulary (common, everyday items.  Oh, and numerous causes of death), present speculation, making accusations, agreeing and disagreeing, making a persuasive argument, the passive for emphasising an action when the actor is unknown,giving a brief narrative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;3)  Apples to Apples&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apples to Apples is one of the classics.  From what I hear, it’s been quite popular in the US as a family game for some time, but it’s only recently popped onto my radar.  It is a fantastically versatile game and is a great way of engaging students to practice lots of different kinds of vocabulary.  From the original adjective version, all the way to idioms.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: vocabulary (general + most idioms), persuading, explaining, describing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;4)  Once Upon a Time&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once Upon a Time has a long tradition in education, both mainstream and EFL.  So much in fact, that I almost feel a bit cheeky writing about it, to be honest.  I only decided to write about it as it seems to have criminally fallen off the radar in recent years.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practicing: narrative tenses (past progressive, past perfect simple/progressive), storytelling, vocabulary (fairy tales and folk tales).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;5)  Man Bites Dog&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tabloids are fascinating.  It’s extremely interesting how most are specifically written in order to be easily understood by the average native speaker, while at the same time remaining almost completely incomprehensible to most high-level learners.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: passive forms, vocabulary (the kind of slang you see in tabloids), sentence structure and word order, narrative tenses, sensitivity to formal and informal register.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6)  FunEmployed&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Funemployed sells itself as a satirical party game.  It is not wrong. It’s a lot of fun both in the classroom and over a few drinks with some less prudish friends.  Players need to be able to both think on their feet and spin a good yarn.  In short, this is a game for bullsh*tters.  With the right group, FunEmployed is absolutely splendid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: clauses of purpose, linking and organising ideas, negative inversion for emphasis, cleft sentences&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;7)  Sheriff of Nottingham&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sheriff of Nottingham is one of the few games which works just fine straight out of the box.  If you’ve never heard of or played Sheriff of Nottingham (SoN), then you should definitely try it twice.  Why twice?  Because you’ll learn so much about the game the first play through, that it’d be a shame not to play it again.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: negotiating, bartering and haggling, agreeing and disagreeing, real conditionals (making suggestions), hesitating.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;8)  Pandemic&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Pandemic, players cooperate to save humankind from four aggressive and fatal diseases.  They have to work together closely, use their unique abilities and carefully plan their moves if they want to be successful in finding the four cures and winning the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: the names of nations and places, polite suggesting, agreeing and disagreeing as part of collaborative decision making, using real conditionals for speculating about solutions to problems.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;9)  Mysterium&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tormented spirits, psychedelic dreams and a murder most foul.  Can your budding detectives discover who committed the crime?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: present speculation, describing abstract images, comparing and contrasting, hedging (sounding less certain), agreeing and disagreeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;10)  Wits and Wagers&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A really neat twist on a trivia game, where it doesn’t matter if you are right, but whether or not you can guess which of the other teams is right.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Good for practising: present speculation, numbers, measures, comparing and contrasting, hedging (sounding less certain), agreeing and disagreeing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you'd like some extra materials (glossaries and useful language, then you can find this post in it's original form at:&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.teflgamer.com/top-10-best-board-games-for-teaching-english/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;http://www.teflgamer.com/top-10-best-board-games-for-teaching-english/&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18836" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T20:16:03.320" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32959" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32514" CreationDate="2016-11-05T21:15:17.983" Score="3" Body="&lt;h1&gt;When two mastermind-controlled abilities have identical timings, the Mastermind determines the exact order of resolution, with Mandatory abilities occurring first&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When two or more abilities with the same timing occur, any Mandatory abilities will occur first, followed by any optional abilities. In the event that two Mandatory or two Optional abilities have identical timings, the Mastermind chooses what order they resolve in. (This is clarified in Cosmic Evil's player rulebook, but the base game doesn't have this issue due to no mandatory abilities having the &quot;Mastermind Ability&quot; timing. Midnight Circle, despite having one mandatory ability with that timing, doesn't clarify it.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Should an optional mastermind ability cause a mandatory ability's requirement to be fulfilled and the timing is correct for that mandatory ability, then the mandatory ability must immediately be resolved. In all cases where the entire timing of two or more abilities is identical and the abilities can (or must) occur, the mastermind chooses which ability occurs first and resolves it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Abilities with a specific timing only occur a single time during that specific timing (i.e. The brain's ability can only occur once per day during the Mastermind Ability phase). Abilities with the &quot;Always&quot; timing are considered passive and, if a condition is attached, are in effect while the condition is satisfied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example scenario Teofrostus provided, using the Brain's optional mastermind ability to add a second intrigue to the school causes the Factor's first mandatory ability's requirement to be satisfied. This means that from that moment forward, the Factor can do the same ability as the conspiracy theorist. Because the Factor can then do the same ability as the conspiracy theorist (an optional ability with timing &quot;Mastermind ability&quot;), the mastermind may then immediately place 1 paranoia on any character in the Factor's location (including the Factor).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Goodwill abilities occur in the order that the protagonist leader requests them.&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the example that Teofrostus provided, the Rich Man's Daughter's goodwill ability is invoked (and presumed to have taken effect) and a second goodwill token is added to the Girl Student. Because the Girl Student now has enough goodwill (2) for her ability to be activated, the protagonist leader may now use her goodwill ability to attempt to remove one paranoia from the Rich Man's Daughter (a student, and thus a valid target).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules very explicitly state that if multiple goodwill abilities can be activated, the protagonist leader gets to choose which ones he activates and in what order they are activated in. The goodwill abilities phase only ends if one of two things happen: either there are no remaining abilities that can be activated or the Protagonist Leader does not want to activate the remaining abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7325" LastEditorUserId="7325" LastEditDate="2016-11-05T21:32:59.183" LastActivityDate="2016-11-05T21:32:59.183" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32961" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-06T04:34:00.383" Score="0" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I block a 5/5 attacked with a 2/3 during my blocking step, could I then bounce my blocker with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAcrobatic%20Maneuver%5d&quot;&gt;Acrobatic Maneuver&lt;/a&gt; and prevent it from being killed, while also having the 5/5 blocked? If so, why?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-06T11:28:47.273" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T11:28:47.273" Title="Acrobatic manuever and blocking" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2016-11-06T16:40:04.633" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32962" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32961" CreationDate="2016-11-06T04:52:19.490" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;When a creature becomes blocked, it stays blocked and blocked creatures do not (normally) do damage to the player. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;509.1h An attacking creature with one or more creatures declared as blockers for it becomes a blocked creature; one with no creatures declared as blockers for it becomes an unblocked creature. This remains unchanged until the creature is removed from combat, an effect says that it becomes blocked or unblocked, or the combat phase ends, whichever comes first. A creature remains blocked even if all the creatures blocking it are removed from combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lore-wise, think of the blocker as having delayed/distracted the attacking creature long enough for it to not reach you. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-06T04:52:19.490" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32964" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T13:06:23.163" Score="2" ViewCount="262" Body="&lt;p&gt;As I love both traveling and board games, I always try to buy a local made game with roots from, or great popularity, in that specific country/region.&#xA;E.g. I got Shogi when I was in Japan, and Dominoes from a trip to Cuba.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now I'm going to South Africa and Mozambique and would like to get my hands on a local game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you know of any board games that are native to South Africa or Mozambique, besides different types of Mancala?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I already have a Mancala-type game called Omweso from Zambia, but I guess I wouldn't turn down a more original type Mancala from Mozambique if that's the only alternative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18846" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T12:15:21.713" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T12:15:21.713" Title="South African and Mozambican board games?" Tags="|recommendations|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-11-10T12:13:20.430" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32965" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-07T15:09:54.057" Score="5" ViewCount="3440" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the first main phase: I have a 1/2 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bThraben%20Inspector%5d&quot;&gt;Thraben Inspector&lt;/a&gt; out.  My opponent casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHarnessed%20Lightning%5d&quot;&gt;Harnessed Lightning&lt;/a&gt; targeting the inspector to kill it.  I then tap, in response, the Inspector to crew my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSmuggler%27s%5d%2b%5bCopter%5d&quot;&gt;Smuggler&amp;#39;s Copter&lt;/a&gt;.  Is this legal? Is the Copter crewed and ready to attack in the combat phase?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18347" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-07T15:26:49.523" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T18:57:17.077" Title="Crewing vehicles with dead crews" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32966" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32965" CreationDate="2016-11-07T15:13:37.090" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Crew ability doesn't have any timing restrictions on it, so it can be activated any time you have priority. And once the ability has been activated it doesn't matter what happens to the creature(s) you tapped to activate the ability (even if the Crew ability is still on the stack).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tapping creatures is a cost of the crew ability. And there is no point between when you have announced the crew ability, when you payed the cost of tapping a creature, and when the ability is put on the stack for your opponent to respond. Once the ability is on the stack removing the crewing creature will not do anything because the cost of activating the ability has already been paid.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=417808&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Gatherer Rulings&lt;/a&gt; on the Copter:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once a player announces that he or she is activating a crew ability, no player may take other actions until the ability’s been paid for. &lt;strong&gt;Notably, players can’t try to stop the ability by changing a creature’s power or by removing or tapping a creature.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Creatures that crew a Vehicle aren’t attached to it or related in any other way. Effects that affect the Vehicle, such as by destroying it or giving it a +1/+1 counter, don’t affect the creatures that crewed it &lt;strong&gt;and vice versa&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T18:57:17.077" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32967" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32985" CreationDate="2016-11-07T16:34:42.780" Score="1" ViewCount="58" Body="&lt;p&gt;On a 2v1 game where Kajia is the boss.  Do the insect counters stay on the dead character permanently?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The situation is when I advance back and pull to add a few counters to the opponent before killing them so they still have the counters on their discard pile.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was thinking since they're dead and the discard pile does not shift, it's like the insect tokens will just fester.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That way if I use her &lt;code&gt;Burrowing&lt;/code&gt; ability which adds +1 Power and +1 Priority for every insect counters, I still count the ones on the dead player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also in addition, the dead player can also be resurrected.  I think they should still be inflicted by the insect counters when they come back to life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18848" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T13:36:03.177" Title="What happens to Kajia's insect tokens on death?" Tags="|battlecon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32968" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32947" CreationDate="2016-11-07T18:53:28.153" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes. Your score at the end of a round is always &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+ points made in books&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;+ points from cards played (including cards in completed books)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;- points left in hand&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can count all 3 separately and then add them together if you want. You don't actually need to remove cards for the negatives, but most people find it easier to pair up cards for the second and third and cancel them out.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8407" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T18:53:28.153" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32970" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32964" CreationDate="2016-11-07T23:50:10.323" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you are looking for localised versions of games through Africa another option to the Mancala family are games of the Nine Men's Morris family, which potentially migrated down through Africa at the height of the Roman empire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For South Africa there is &lt;strong&gt;Muravava&lt;/strong&gt; or &lt;strong&gt;Umlabalaba&lt;/strong&gt;, which is closer to Twelve Men's Morris in that there are more moves available.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In Mozambique you'll find &lt;strong&gt;Gulugufe&lt;/strong&gt;, which is played on two intersecting triangles. There is also &lt;strong&gt;Ntchuva&lt;/strong&gt;, which is the local variant of Mancala.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-11-07T23:50:10.323" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32973" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32964" CreationDate="2016-11-08T05:46:34.670" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can reccomend 30 seconds. It is a SA boardgame in the more western approach. You used to get those in checkers supermarks and picnpays but Im not sure if they still sell them&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T05:46:34.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32974" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-08T07:37:02.010" Score="0" ViewCount="191" Body="&lt;p&gt;When I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTerastodon%5d&quot;&gt;Terastodon&lt;/a&gt; in my library and an opponent puts it into play under his control using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBribery%5d&quot;&gt;Bribery&lt;/a&gt;, who gets to destroy the three noncreature permanents, him or me?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18853" LastEditorUserId="1499" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T09:02:34.510" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T09:09:35.410" Title="Who gets enters-the-battlefield abilities with Bribery?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32975" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32974" CreationDate="2016-11-08T09:09:35.410" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;When your opponent puts your creature into play with Bribery, it acts just as if they played it themselves (or, perhaps, put it into play from their own library). It's their creature, and the fact that you happen to own the physical card itself doesn't matter, except for some effects that explicitly use the word &quot;own&quot; or &quot;owner&quot;. Terastodon does not have any of those effects. So it's your opponent who gets to choose what permanents to target and whether to destroy them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If Terastodon dies, though, it will come back to &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; graveyard, not your opponent's. Once a card leaves the battlefield, then it &lt;em&gt;does&lt;/em&gt; matter who owns the actual card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1499" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T09:09:35.410" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32976" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32978" CreationDate="2016-11-08T22:02:35.450" Score="-3" ViewCount="1040" Body="&lt;p&gt;My Boggle Jr game set has only 7 dice left (missing one die). Some of the letter cards can't be spelled out using only 7 dice. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I am curious what's missing die should be. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Would someone please post the letters (6 faces) on all 8 dice? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18862" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T22:36:14.400" Title="Boggle Jr 8 dice letters" Tags="|boggle|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32977" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32980" CreationDate="2016-11-08T22:12:06.893" Score="8" ViewCount="286" Body="&lt;p&gt;We have a group of 8 people in our campaign and we usually do 2 table top battles at a time (not enough table space in our area). The game we are currently playing is Mordheim and for those who have not heard of it, just think of Warhammer but with 10-20 models in a crowded city and the goal of the game (mainly) is to get your opponent off the table by removing their models by range weapons or going in close and winning on the die roll. (very quick summary)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have a player who just camps at his table edge and hides until your close enough where he charges you when he gets a chance (hides to a point where you cannot shoot any of his units via range).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, since the point of the game is to knock out the other opponent, the player who is going up against the camper has to take 7-10 turns to reach the opponent, not able to shoot at them and the opponent just simply skips his turn once hes behind other buildings until hes at charge range.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We have brought up a few points (ex: on turn 7 and the camper does absolutely nothing, the opponent gets free EXP and the game is ended as a draw) however this only agitates the camper stating that this is strategy, part of the game and comes up with excuses why you don't just go out in the middle of the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What can we do with this? Should we let him continue to play his &quot;strategy&quot; or come up with concrete house rules that this is not how the game is intended to be played?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18863" LastEditorUserId="40" LastEditDate="2016-11-08T23:37:25.840" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T11:13:13.833" Title="What can we do with a player who camps in a table top game?" Tags="|warhammer-fantasy|mordheim|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32978" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32976" CreationDate="2016-11-08T22:36:14.400" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;The 8 dice are:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABCDEF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABCDEF&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ABDEKO&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EGRSTZ&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;GHIJKL&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;IKLNPW&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;LMNOPR&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;OSTUWY&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This comes from the file posted &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/14848/bogglejrzip&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-11-08T22:36:14.400" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32979" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32977" CreationDate="2016-11-09T00:16:37.500" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You could take some hints from FPS games, namely games with snipers.  Once a sniper gets into a strong nest, it can be hard to dislodge them since getting to them leaves you exposed and you can't shoot back at them until you're close. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Some games put objectives out into the open.  Since your objective is elimination, why not put some sort of buff/equipment/units in the open for your players to fight over (ala Hunger Games style?).  Or have stationary artillery that are hard to hold, but can punish players if they stay in a certain area. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T00:16:37.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32980" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32977" CreationDate="2016-11-09T04:56:09.833" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are already quite a few ways you could deal with this, some based in the rules, and some beyond the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;As long as one of your units can see the hidden unit, it stops being hidden&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook (page 11):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an enemy moves so that he can see the hidden warrior, the model is no longer hidden and the counter is removed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It may be worth sacrificing a fast-moving but weak unit to remove the hidden counters from the opponent's units, thus allowing the rest of your warband to use ranged weapons against them, or charge them first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Units within a number of inches equal to your initiative are automatically spotted&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook (page 11):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enemy warriors will always see, hear or otherwise detect hidden foes within their Initiative value in inches. So a warrior whose Initiative value is 3 will automatically spot all hidden enemies within 3&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So even if you can't get into direct line of sight, again sacrificing a unit may reveal some or all of the enemy warband.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If terrain permits, you may also be able to move one of your own units with a high initiative into a position where line of sight cannot be drawn to it, but its initiative reveals some or all of the enemy warband.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;The All-Seeing Eye of Numas allows you to see hidden units&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rulebook (page 100):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;The bearer of the All-Seeing Eye can see all models on the table top, even if they are hidden or out of sight.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are lucky enough to have one of these, the enemy can never hide from you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Arm your troops with spears&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This will make his charge much less useful, since the Strike First ability means you will hit him before he can hit you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Use terrain set up to destroy his chances at the edge of the board&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are playing the standard rules for terrain placement for most scenarios, you are within your right to place terrain at the edge of the board that is horrible to defend. Then if you manage to win the roll for first set-up, choose the side he has designed with defence in mind and leave him with nothing worth hiding around.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Play a different scenario&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you play scenario 3 (wyrdstone hunt), scenario 4 (breakthrough), scenario 5 (street fight), scenario 7 (hidden treasure) or scenario 8 (occupy), there is a very high chance he will lose by using this tactic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Meta-game things that may help you&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Whenever he initiates this tactic declare a temporary alliance with someone (or everyone) else (if playing with more than two of you), and mob him in his nest. There may be some casualties to your alliance, but you should make quick work of this player's warband and teach him in the process that using this tactic is going to make the game less fun for him.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Teach yourself to measure distances by sight. Your opponent will end up out of cover and ready for shooting/charging if he declares a charge, but falls a half inch too short.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Talk to the player (as a group, and as nicely as possible) and just explain that while, yes, his preferred tactic is technically legal, it makes the game much less enjoyable to play for the rest of you.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Use his tactic right back against him. If you just hide at your starting location and keep passing exactly like him, he will quickly realise just how un-fun it is to be on the receiving end of it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Create a list of your own scenarios, making sure that many of them either cannot be won by playing defensively (like scenarios 3, 7, &amp;amp; 8), or actively deter defensive or stationary play.&#xA;If none of these things work, then I would suggest trying to play some games when he isn't invited.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T05:10:51.897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T05:10:51.897" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32981" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32982" CreationDate="2016-11-09T09:12:44.607" Score="11" ViewCount="2708" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing with the Polania faction in Scythe, I built the mech than unlocks &quot;Submerge&quot;. This allows my leader and mechs to travel in and out of lakes. At one point my leader was carrying resources with him during a lake-walk and I didn't want to bring them ashore. The reason was that the other faction would have a great opportunity to steal my resources while on dry land.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Question: Was I allowed to go ashore leaving the resources(the oil :)) floating in the lake?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T09:29:02.397" Title="Scythe: Can I leave resources in the lake?" Tags="|scythe|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32982" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32981" CreationDate="2016-11-09T09:29:02.397" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/20771925#20771925&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/article/20771925#20771925&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;SUBMERGE: Your character and mechs may move to and from lakes and move from any lake to another (similar to tunnel movement, but with lakes). If a mech moves workers onto a lake or if a character or mech moves resources onto a lake, you may not leave those workers or resources on the lake after moving off of it, nor may a worker move off of the lake without the assistance of the mech.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="11924" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T09:29:02.397" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32983" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-09T11:39:41.853" Score="1" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I put a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSylvan%20Primordial%5d&quot;&gt;Sylvan Primordial&lt;/a&gt; into play and target a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDetention%20Sphere%5d&quot;&gt;Detention Sphere&lt;/a&gt;  that previously exiled my &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPrimeval%20bounty%5d&quot;&gt;Primeval bounty&lt;/a&gt;. As part of Sylvan Primordial's triggered ability, I get to search for a forest card and put it onto the battlefield tapped. Do I gain 3 life as part of Primeval Bounty's triggered ability or is it not returned to the battlefield yet? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7265" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T12:34:53.273" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T22:38:39.763" Title="Sylvan primordial destroying detention sphere that previously exiled primeval bounty," Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32984" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32983" CreationDate="2016-11-09T12:53:59.197" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's look at the stack:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;We play Sylvan Primordial.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sylvan Primordial resolves, and is removed from the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sylvan Primordial's 'Enters the battlefield' ability is placed on the stack. You choose Detention Sphere as the target.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sylvan Primordial's triggered ability resolves. Detention Sphere is destroyed, and you may search your library for 1 Forest and put it into play tapped. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Because the Detention Sphere was destroyed, its 'Leaves the battlefield' ability is now placed on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Detention Sphere's triggered ability resolves. 'Return previously exiled Primeval Bounty to play' - The forest is already in play, so it doesn't trigger Primeval Bounty's ability.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Because you might assume that there's a timing difference between the destroying of permanents and the counting of those permanents for the forest-retrieval effect, it's logical to think that the consequences of said destruction will have already resolved. This is not the case however, as is shown by Sylvan Primordial's specific Ruling on the Gatherer:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If Sylvan Primordial’s enters-the-battlefield ability resolves but one of the target noncreature permanents isn’t destroyed (perhaps because it has indestructible or it regenerated), it won’t count toward the number of Forest cards you can put onto the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Its ETB trigger resolves in one motion, and the additional ruling compensates for the difference in targets chosen vs targets saved by opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T22:38:39.763" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T22:38:39.763" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32985" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32967" CreationDate="2016-11-09T13:36:03.177" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It seems to me your interpretation is broadly correct.  I guess with a game like this its impossible to write a rules that account for every little situation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you read the 'first aid' section of rules they state :- &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a player reaches zero life, he continues playing throughout the&#xA;  recycle step of the current beat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any Insect counters gained the turn a player took damage that took them to Zero or less would go into the discard pile and any that were due to be returned would be.  Obviously the 'life loss' effect wouldn't apply as life loss effects can never take remaining health below 1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The card for Kajia states :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When an opponent would cycle a discard pile with Insect Counters on it&#xA;  back into his hand.....&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and First aid states :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;He does not play any future beats while at zero life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As the player is not taking future beats the the discard pile is not cycled.  Similar to if a player use a 'finishing move' which also doesn't rotate the discard pile.  So if a player attacking Kajia in 2 v 1 mode if knocked out the tokens would still remain on the discard piles and count for the effect the 'Burrowing Style'   However what you said about that bonus being 'per insect counters' is wrong.  The card says :-&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This attack has +1 Power and +1 Priority for each discard pile with&#xA;  insect counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if 3 insect are on one player all on one there discard piles but not the other they only gain +1 Power and +1 Priority for the pile.  Not the number of insect counters on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13753" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T13:36:03.177" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32986" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32988" CreationDate="2016-11-09T20:36:58.320" Score="1" ViewCount="268" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBlinding%20Mage%5d&quot;&gt;Blinding Mage&lt;/a&gt; has an ability to tap a target creature. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFuryblade%20Vampire%5d&quot;&gt;Furyblade Vampire&lt;/a&gt; has the ability to discard a card at the beginning of combat for +3/+0. I don't see who has to act first? Furyblade doesn't want to discard a card if it cannot attack, but the Blinding Mage might not want to spend the resources to tap if Furyblade isn't buffed? Who has the last say?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;player1: discard card to buff Furyblade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(does player2 get the option to use abilities?)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;player2: use Blinding Mage's ability to tap Furyblade&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10219" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T20:37:49.783" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T20:52:37.013" Title="Furyblade Vampire vs Blinding Mage" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32987" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32986" CreationDate="2016-11-09T20:45:18.827" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The sequence of events (and steps) is as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game moves to Beginning of Combat step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Furyblade trigger goes on stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players gain priority (Active, then non-active)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Trigger resolves, controller may discard to buff.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Both players gain priority (Active, then non-active)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game moves to Declare Attackers step.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At either steps 3 or 5 Blinding Mage can be activated.  Since both times are before Declare Attackers, if Furyblade is tapped it can't attack. Since step 5 is after the buff has been applied, tapping it there wastes the buff. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-11-09T20:50:31.290" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T20:50:31.290" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32988" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32986" CreationDate="2016-11-09T20:52:30.623" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;Furyblade Vampire has a triggered ability, and Blinding Mage has an activated ability. In this case, that means that the player with the Vampire has more restricted options, and basically has the worst expected outcomes with this interaction.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's how it plays out (let's say Amy controls the Furyblade Vampire, and Nat controls the Blinding Mage):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Amy's Beginning of Combat step starts. Furyblade Vampire's ability triggers and goes on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players have an opportunity to act. Nat can activate Blinding Mage's ability at this time, but he's probably better off waiting.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Furyblade Vampire's ability resolves. At this point, Amy chooses whether to discard a card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Both players have another opportunity to act. At this point, Nat can choose whether to activate Blinding Mage, depending on whether Amy chose to discard a card.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T20:52:30.623" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32989" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32986" CreationDate="2016-11-09T20:52:37.013" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The Blinding Mage will have the opportunity to tap the Furyblade Vampire after its controller has decided if they will discard a card or not. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In Magic who gets/has to act is based on a system called priority. The super short version of priority is a player needs to have priority in order to cast spells or activate abilities. Before any spell or ability resolves all players must pass priority without doing anything. If priority is passed by all players without anything being on the stack the game moves to the next step or phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Combat Phase has several steps inside of it, the first two the Beginning of Combat Step and Declare Attackers Step are the ones that are relevant to this question. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Vampire's ability triggers &lt;em&gt;'At the beginning of combat on your turn'&lt;/em&gt;, this means that it triggers during the Beginning of Combat Step. After the ability resolves (and you have chosen either to discard a card or not) your opponent will receive priority (they technically also get priority before the ability resolves, but since they wouldn't want to use their Mage's ability then I'm skipping over it), which means they have the opportunity to cast spells or activate abilities like Blinding Mage's.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Declare Attackers Step is when you would actually declare the Vampire as an attacker if it is not tapped. Note that you can't just try and do something like 'I discard a card to the Furyblade's trigger and attack with it.' to try and skip your opponents ability to tap it. If you try and do something like this they have every right to back the game up and tap your Vampire.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-11-09T20:52:37.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32991" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32992" CreationDate="2016-11-10T03:34:37.137" Score="0" ViewCount="1779" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I crew a vehicle with a creature that has an enchantment that does something such as &quot;Whenever enchanted creature attacks, its controller loses 2 life&quot; would that transfer to the vehicle it crews? Also, would enchantments such as a +1/+1 counter move to the vehicle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18868" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T09:42:56.570" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T09:42:56.570" Title="Do enchantments of Crew carry over to Vehicles?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32992" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32991" CreationDate="2016-11-10T05:12:44.627" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No to both. Crewing a creature doesn't cause he vehicle to be related to the creatures that crew it in any way unless the creatures have an ability that triggers when they crew a vehicle. Crew means nothing more than what the ability says; that you tap creatures  to make the vehicle into an artifact creature until end of turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the gatherer rulings on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSmuggler%27s%5d%2b%5bCopter%5d&quot;&gt;Smuggler&amp;#39;s Copter&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Creatures that crew a Vehicle aren’t attached to it or related in any other way. Effects that affect the Vehicle, such as by destroying it or giving it a +1/+1 counter, don’t affect the creatures that crewed it and vice versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that &quot;enchantments such as a +1/+1 counter&quot; makes no sense. A counter is a completely different thing from an enchantment. If you meant an aura enchantment that gives the creature +1/+1, this is unrelated to a +1/+1 counter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T05:12:44.627" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32993" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32994" CreationDate="2016-11-10T09:45:30.323" Score="5" ViewCount="2152" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a new MTG player, I would like to know how do players remember all the various effects ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For example, a spell could add copies of a certain card. How do you actually represent those copies ? Chandra, pyromaster has such power i.e. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Exile the top ten cards of your library. Choose an instant or sorcery card exiled this way and copy it three times. You may cast the copies without paying their mana costs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;How would I actually represent the copies in the game ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aside from this specific example, do players resort on taking extensive notes of all the events occurring during the games to remember the added cards, ... ? Or is there another way ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18871" LastEditorDisplayName="user10232" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T10:57:38.903" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T14:00:35.687" Title="How do players remember all the various effects?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32994" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32993" CreationDate="2016-11-10T11:59:33.780" Score="10" Body="&lt;p&gt;As a general rule, the answer is &lt;strong&gt;token cards&lt;/strong&gt; and &lt;strong&gt;dice&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Objects that don't physically exist in Magic tend to be token permanents, copies of spells on the stack, and abilities on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Tokens are often easy. Wizards produce token cards for non-copy token permanents within a set, so you can use these. If you don't have the appropriate token, you can use reminder tokens (e.g. I have 6/6 &quot;Wurm&quot; tokens for a deck that needs 1/1 &quot;Worm&quot; tokens), other objects, or relevant reminder cards from outside of the game. If your deck is sleeved, you can use unsleeved cards face-down. Dice are helpful as well - I can put a d6 on my face-down card to represent the power/toughness of the construct it represents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occasionally effects need to be remembered that aren't stored by the game on its own. Some examples of this are renowned/monstrous, &quot;gain control&quot; effects, or storm counts. Again, dice are helpful. At this point I have dice in a variety of colours. Simple +1/+1 counters will always be on white dice, but a renowned or monstrous creature will have its +1/+1 counters on a translucent coloured die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I've created tons of tokens for which I don't have the card, things can get more complicated. I might need dice to indicate the P/T of a group of creatures, the number of them, and additional counters on them. Again, different shapes/colours of dice can help you develop a consistent standard. I use d10s/d% to track numbers of objects, d6s for counters on an object, and d20s for life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Copies on the stack tend to be of other things on the stack or of something held in exile, so you can refer to it. The stack doesn't usually get too deep, so it's not difficult to resolve it without forgetting what things are there. If it gets complicated you can put the exiled cards as reminders in a physical stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The reason it doesn't usually get too complicated is because you'll usually be able to refer to the effects that created stuff, and that there won't usually be too many different kinds of things at once. If I can't remember what your token creatures are, I can look at your &quot;Raise the Alarm&quot; in your graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Lasting effects can be tougher to remember as the board doesn't indicate the state for you. For example, if I play an instant or sorcery to gain permanent control of your creature, it's easy to remember because your card is on my side of the board. If you then gain control of it temporarily, we have to remember to give it back to me afterwards. I'll put reminder objects (rubber bands, bottle caps, etc) on relevant cards (e.g. exile at end of turn, or don't untap). I know people who have other objects (e.g. coins) that they put on their library to remind them to do something during upkeep, before drawing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you notice, Magic does have these moments where the board state can be complicated and not self-preserving. In general, players &lt;strong&gt;don't worry too much about it&lt;/strong&gt;. As long as you've got techniques (as I mentioned, tokens and dice) to remember the more common details, you can improvise ways to deal with other situations. Most of the time you'll remember what's going on, and sometimes you'll forget but it won't matter too much. As you become more experienced with the game, you'll tend to remember details better and you'll know what you can infer from the board state. If you're playing in a deck or format where certain details matter, you'll choose ways to keep track of them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you come to a situation where these techniques are overcomplicated, insufficient or just don't work for you, you can write down notes as needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T14:00:35.687" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T14:00:35.687" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32995" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32997" CreationDate="2016-11-10T13:39:53.760" Score="3" ViewCount="572" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm looking at an interaction with the Inspired mechanic and vehicles and wanted to make sure I had this correct.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On my previous turn, I've used a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFelhide%20Spiritbinder%5d&quot;&gt;Felhide Spiritbinder&lt;/a&gt; to crew a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBallista%20Charger%5d&quot;&gt;Ballista Charger&lt;/a&gt;. During my untap step, Felhide Spiritbinder untaps, adding its Inspired trigger to the stack. With the Inspired trigger on the stack, can I crew the Ballista using the Spiritbinder, pay the Inspired ability's cost, and then create a copy of the animated Ballista?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3249" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T14:03:28.810" Title="During the untap step, can I copy a vehicle with Felhide Spiritbinder's Inspired trigger?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32996" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32995" CreationDate="2016-11-10T13:50:06.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately, you can't.  The first time you would get priority is after Spiritbinder's ability is on the stack.  You don't have to pay for the ability until resolution, but you do have to have a target creature to put the ability on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1. Some spells and abilities require their controller to choose one or more targets for them. The targets are object(s), player(s), and/or zone(s) the spell or ability will affect. These targets are declared as part of the process of putting the spell or ability on the stack. The targets can’t be changed except by another spell or ability that explicitly says it can do so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also see &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6317/am-i-forced-to-choose-targets-for-may-abilities&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T14:03:28.810" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32997" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32995" CreationDate="2016-11-10T13:50:10.853" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, this does not work because you choose targets for an ability when it is put on the stack, and when the Spiritbinder's ability is put on the stack the Charger is not a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, the Spiritbinder triggers during the untap step, but the trigger isn't put on the stack until the beginning of the upkeep step since nobody gets priority during the untap step.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. See rule 116, “Timing and Priority.” The ability becomes the topmost object on the stack. It has the text of the ability that created it, and no other characteristics. It remains on the stack until it’s countered, it resolves, a rule causes it to be removed from the stack, or an effect moves it elsewhere.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3d&lt;/strong&gt; The remainder of the process for putting a triggered ability on the stack is identical to the process for casting a spell listed in rules 601.2c–d. If a choice is required when the triggered ability goes on the stack but no legal choices can be made for it, or if a rule or a continuous effect otherwise makes the ability illegal, the ability is simply removed from the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;601.2c&lt;/strong&gt; The player announces his or her choice of an appropriate player, object, or zone for each target the spell requires. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T13:50:10.853" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32998" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="32999" CreationDate="2016-11-10T15:43:31.563" Score="6" ViewCount="5962" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am curious, can proliferate be applied to planes-walkers with loyalty counters on them?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;proliferate text states:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You choose any number of permanents and/or players with counters on them, then give each another counter of a kind already there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And planeswalkers are both players AND permanents, So I see no reason that it shouldn't work. Are there rules against it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18873" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-10T16:34:17.833" LastActivityDate="2019-05-11T02:00:12.810" Title="Can proliferate be applied to loyalty counters?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="32999" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32998" CreationDate="2016-11-10T15:50:36.453" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes you can proliferate loyalty counters on planeswalkers because they are permanents. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Planeswalkers are not players however, the only time they sort-of act like players is &lt;em&gt;&quot;If noncombat damage would be dealt to a player by a source controlled by an opponent, that opponent may have that source deal that damage to a planeswalker the first player controls instead.&quot;&lt;/em&gt; And really that is just a rule so that cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; will be effective against them without needing errata. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;110.4.&lt;/strong&gt; There are five permanent types: artifact, creature, enchantment, land, and &lt;strong&gt;planeswalker&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T15:50:36.453" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33000" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32881" CreationDate="2016-11-10T15:56:55.697" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;After much rules reading when encountering a similar situation w/ a drop pod I'm pretty sure that the most permissive answer is the correct one, specifically: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My unit being in base with an immobilized vehicle does not prevent that vehicle from shooting on it's turn (or firing Overwatch if it can).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;My unit that is still in base with a vehicle can attack it in the combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;On my turn, if my unit does not move (likely because it's immobilized), it can fire at another target and still attack the vehicle in the combat phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T15:56:55.697" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33001" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33005" CreationDate="2016-11-10T17:49:21.120" Score="3" ViewCount="174" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do to the deterministic nature of the game, if I have a decent memory I can easily know what cards are left in my deck, if not their order. I have two cards in my hand that let me draw a card (1 each) and I know there are 4 cards left in my deck, two of which will also let me draw a card. What are the chances I'll be able to draw my entire remaining deck?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:28:07.947" Title="What are my odds of drawing the rest of my deck" Tags="|probability|star-realms|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33003" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33004" CreationDate="2016-11-10T18:37:53.717" Score="1" ViewCount="55" Body="&lt;p&gt;One of the Red Taoists abilities allows him to move twice. Could that taoist possibly split their movement?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move Once (1)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Exorcise or Use Village Tile&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Move Again (2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, can any taoist pick the order in which they do their actions? For example, can a taoist attack first and move second or does the optional move &lt;em&gt;have&lt;/em&gt; to be taken first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14751" LastEditorUserId="14751" LastEditDate="2020-03-11T16:15:00.067" LastActivityDate="2020-03-11T16:15:00.067" Title="Could A Taoist Split Movement?" Tags="|ghost-stories|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33004" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33003" CreationDate="2016-11-10T19:13:55.470" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Move always happens before your action. The red power doesn't affect this; it only makes the move part more powerful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After the Yin phase is done, the player plays the role of his Taoist, according to the&#xA;  following sequence:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;1) Move (optional)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;2) Request help from a villager OR attempt an exorcism &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:13:55.470" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33005" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33001" CreationDate="2016-11-10T19:22:02.307" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;50%&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Symbolizing the cards that give you a draw a D, and the cards that do not as N, there are 6 possible permutations of draw vs no-draw.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In each permutation, the second N card represents the farthest you can get through your deck on this turn.  I have bolded it for easier visibility.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DDN&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DND&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;DN&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;NDD&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;ND&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt;D&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;N&lt;strong&gt;N&lt;/strong&gt;DD&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8272" LastActivityDate="2016-11-10T19:22:02.307" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33007" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20290" CreationDate="2016-11-11T11:34:58.347" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to &amp;quot;Three questions i ask Matt Leacock(Game Designer)&amp;quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1412989/three-questions-i-ask-matt-leacockgame-designer&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/thread/1412989/three-questions-i-ask-matt-leacockgame-designer&lt;/a&gt;), this is allowed:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So lets say there are two people on a blocked tile [a] and climber on unblocked tile [b] and the navigator is on [c] also unblocked. On the Navigators turn, he can move the climber 3 spaces for 1 action. So can he move the climber to the blocked tile [a] pick up a guy, move back to [b] drop off that guy and then move back to [a] essentially making both of those players now on unblocked tiles? &lt;em&gt;all in 1 action of the navigator?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes. That's fine -- nothing prevents it.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;sub&gt;Emphasis added&lt;/sub&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18879" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T07:18:09.387" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33008" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33030" CreationDate="2016-11-11T12:47:12.657" Score="1" ViewCount="244" Body="&lt;p&gt;Example scenario (which I'm going to call &quot;The Sam&quot; since my 7 year son just beat me using a large subset of this):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dark side has no defenders available, 3 undamaged 5 point objectives.  Light side's turn, light side of force is winning.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light side objectives: Hit and Run, One of the 2 resource objectives, and the objective that gives you a -1 for first enhancement played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light side hand has yoda, light sabre, r2d2, binds all things, double strike, and target of opportunity as their 6 cards in their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light side does one point of damage during force struggle.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Deployment:&#xA;   Light side plays R2D2 (increases resources available to 6)&#xA;   Light side plays yoda (resource left: 3)&#xA;   Light side plays light sabre enhancment (rez left: 3)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attack:&#xA;   Yoda attacks undamaged objective, plays TOO during unopposed edge battle, thereby doing 5 damage (TOO + light sabre + enhancement bonus + own strike + unopposed bonus)&#xA;   When focused to strike, light side plays double strike (rez left: 2)&#xA;   Light side then plays it binds all things (rez left: 1), picking up TOO + double strike&#xA;  Yoda repeats attack on 2nd undamaged objective and again uses double strike (rez left: 0), playing TOO again&#xA;  Yoda attacks 3rd objective, doing only 4 points of damage (no TOO), and actually could do an extra point of damage from hit and run.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Light side has just defeated 3 objectives and therefore wins.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sub-questions: &#xA;  Is there a rule limiting a single unit to only being able to attack 1 objective per turn that I'm not seeing?&#xA;  Is there some other limitation/rule exception that would prevent this?  (Beyond the whole dark side really should have at least one defender and this does require a non-trivial amount of luck to get this exact combination of cards)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3070" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T13:58:36.680" Title="Am I missing a limitation on double strike (for star wars lcg)?" Tags="|star-wars-lcg|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33009" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33014" CreationDate="2016-11-11T17:30:04.287" Score="2" ViewCount="378" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have recently been playing a lot of the game &quot;Patchwork&quot; (&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/163412/patchwork&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/163412/patchwork&lt;/a&gt;) and really am enjoying it, but it becomes redundant quickly as it is a two player game. I'm looking to find more games of this type so that I can have a game rotation. I'm just not sure on how I can find games that are similar in quality, fun, game time, complexity, etc. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what would be a good way other than reading all the reviews on websites or forums to find same style games? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18124" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T08:31:53.460" Title="How can I find games similar to a certain type?" Tags="|patchwork|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33010" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33009" CreationDate="2016-11-11T18:23:43.083" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you look under the &quot;Classification&quot; section on the game's BGG page, you can click one of those tags to see other games with similar features. E.g.: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2041/card-drafting&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgamemechanic/2041/card-drafting&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="318" LastActivityDate="2016-11-11T18:23:43.083" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33012" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33013" CreationDate="2016-11-12T19:36:59.913" Score="2" ViewCount="79" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the game &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/153999/and-then-we-held-hands&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;...and then we held hands&lt;/a&gt;, after the first player enters the center, is he allowed to change perspective (change which side of the cards can be used)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Normally when the player ends his turn in the middle of the board, he is allowed to choose if he is going to change perspective. However, the rules says:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If at the end of a turn the player’s token is located on a node on the middle line (i.e., in neither half of the board), the player may choose whether to change perspective or not, deciding whether to do this without looking at the covered halves of the emotion cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is the center considered a node on the middle? And so, after the first player enters the center, can he change the visible side of the cards in order to help the other player?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16188" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-11-14T09:26:45.487" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T09:26:45.487" Title="Can a player change perspective after entering the center?" Tags="|and-then-we-held-hands|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33013" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33012" CreationDate="2016-11-12T21:14:02.633" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I´ve sent an e-mail to Ludicreations and this is what they´ve replied:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;yes, you are allowed to change perspective after entering the center.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16188" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T21:14:02.633" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33014" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33009" CreationDate="2016-11-12T21:24:13.047" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is ambiguous as to what the &quot;certain type&quot; really is. If you look on the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/163412/patchwork/credits&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;full credits&quot;&lt;/a&gt; notebook page for that game you'll find the &quot;Categories&quot;, &quot;Mechanisms&quot; and &quot;Families&quot; which have been listed for that game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can search for various combinations of &quot;Categories&quot; and &quot;Mechanisms&quot; using the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/advsearch/boardgame&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;advanced search&lt;/a&gt; option. For instance &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeksearch.php?action=search&amp;amp;advsearch=1&amp;amp;objecttype=boardgame&amp;amp;q=&amp;amp;include%5Bdesignerid%5D=&amp;amp;geekitemname=&amp;amp;include%5Bpublisherid%5D=&amp;amp;geekitemname=&amp;amp;range%5Byearpublished%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Byearpublished%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bminage%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgrating%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgrating%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bnumvoters%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgweight%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;floatrange%5Bavgweight%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bnumweights%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;colfiltertype=&amp;amp;searchuser=herace&amp;amp;range%5Bminplayers%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bmaxplayers%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;playerrangetype=normal&amp;amp;range%5Bleastplaytime%5D%5Bmin%5D=&amp;amp;range%5Bplaytime%5D%5Bmax%5D=&amp;amp;propertyids%5B%5D=1009&amp;amp;propertyids%5B%5D=2002&amp;amp;B1=Submit&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this BGG search&lt;/a&gt; yields the games which are in the &quot;abstract strategy&quot; Category and use the &quot;tile placement&quot; mechanism.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There isn't any way to restrict a search to/through a &quot;Family&quot;. You'll just have to spin through the whole list for each family. There are a lot of games in the Combinatorial family (and the BGG family misses many since this is a &quot;new&quot; family). There are also a lot of games in the Polyominoes family. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14113" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T21:24:13.047" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33015" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="13574" CreationDate="2016-11-12T21:58:27.657" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BGG&lt;/a&gt; doesn't have any game with &quot;Spillage&quot; in the title. Looking at the &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/11901/tic-tac-toe/linkeditems/reimplementedby&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Tic-Tac-Toe entry&lt;/a&gt; there is also no game that reimplements Tic-Tac-Toe which is the same as Spillage. There are a number of games which play some sort of meta-game of Tic-Tac-Toe in which there are nine 3x3 games being played and the object is to get 3 in a row on the meta-board. So all in all &quot;Spillage&quot; would seem to be as good a name as any.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd guess that the game is a first player win like the game Hex since having an extra position can't hurt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since it is a &quot;new&quot; game it won't have been solved. But writing a program to play would need a dept first approach with symmetry. The look ahead would seem to be fairly uncomplicated so I'd guess that a computer could either win or tie with a decent program. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that the human moves first I'm not sure that a human could out-play a computer on this. If such a winning strategy could be found for the first player then the game would just be a gigantic meta-Tic-Tac-Toe game of course. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14113" LastActivityDate="2016-11-12T21:58:27.657" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33017" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4382" CreationDate="2016-11-13T08:38:24.127" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm not sure Lance Roberts' answer is correct. For the Mayor, the rules say this: &quot;If there is at least one colonist on a tile, it is considered occupied. Only occupied tiles may use their functions; unoccupied tiles &lt;em&gt;never&lt;/em&gt; function!&quot; (emphasis theirs).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Given that emphasis on the word 'occupied' on the residence card, and the word 'never' in the mayor description, it could be interpreted as island spaces without a colonist do not contribute towards the residence card's ability, as they are not occupied and do not function.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This ambiguity could be fixed by changing the word 'occupied' in relation to the island tiles on the residence card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18887" LastEditorUserId="18887" LastEditDate="2016-11-13T11:09:34.707" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T11:09:34.707" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33018" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-13T16:36:37.093" Score="1" ViewCount="483" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9663/can-instants-be-played-after-i-decide-not-to-block/12216#12216?newreg=e9354be4dae149fc9a3e4667f7f42f42&quot;&gt;Can instants be played after I decide not to block?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've been reading through this forum and google for this answer for a while now, the closest I have come to my answer is the thread linked above. Specifically this answer here. &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12216/18889&quot;&gt;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/12216/18889&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to the specifics of the question. I'll use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLongtusk%20Cub%5d&quot;&gt;Longtusk Cub&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bShock%5d&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Opponent attacks with Long Tusk without pumping it up, leaving it at 2/2. I do not declare any blockers. Opponent decided to pay energy to make it a 3/3. In response, I cast shock.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does shock take effect, since its an instant, before Long Tusk becomes a 3/3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks for the help in advanced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18889" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.353" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T19:23:32.873" Title="What resolves first? Creatures abilities or instants?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-11-13T21:02:26.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33019" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33018" CreationDate="2016-11-13T16:45:36.117" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Yes&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this example, the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLongtusk%20Cub%5d&quot;&gt;Longtusk Cub&lt;/a&gt;'s pump ability is placed on the stack, &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=423765&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Shock&lt;/a&gt; is placed on the stack and the stack resolves in reverse order. Shock deals 2 damage to a 2/2 creature, killing it; the pump ability fizzles as its 'target' is no longer on the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A couple of comments on the way you've worded your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Does shock take effect, since its an instant, before Long Tusk becomes a 3/3?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The fact that Shock is an instant is irrelevant on when it will resolve, that's what the stack is for. The stack is what determines in what order effects are applied to the game. Shock being an instant allows you to place it on the stack at a good time - as a reaction to your opponent activating this pump-ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, in this case, it doesn't matter whether you declare blockers or not, or even if all of this is in the attack phase.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="15514" LastEditDate="2017-09-25T19:23:32.873" LastActivityDate="2017-09-25T19:23:32.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33021" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33008" CreationDate="2016-11-13T19:59:20.453" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is no rule preventing a single unit from attacking multiple objectives, so long as they are able to attack in the first place. Keep your defenses up as dark side (or any side, really). :)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18890" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T19:59:20.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33022" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33023" CreationDate="2016-11-13T21:03:29.553" Score="7" ViewCount="12273" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the charity phase of munchkin when you have to reduce your hand to 5 cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A rule states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Charity: If you have more than five cards in your hand, you must play&#xA;  enough cards to get you to five or below. If you cannot, or do not&#xA;  want to, you must give the excess cards to the player with the lowest&#xA;  Level.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Q: what if the player with the lowest level already has 5 cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do you?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Still give them to the player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Discard them&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18891" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T09:02:18.277" Title="Munchkin: Charity: Giving cards to someone who has 5 already" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33023" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33022" CreationDate="2016-11-13T21:20:47.007" Score="26" Body="&lt;p&gt;You still give them. But those players must discard extra cards at their charity phase (if they are still the player with the lowest level).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This rule gives a slight advantage to players with the lowest level. Although they mostly get the less usefull cards (gee two halfling and a thief card, I'm really happy now!)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To add some reference to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The answer is in the rules (the relevant part in bold):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Your Hand: Cards in your hand are not in play. They don’t help you, but&#xA;  they can’t be taken away except by cards that specifically affect “your hand.”&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;At the end of your turn, you may have no more than five cards in your hand&#xA;  (see Charity, p. 2)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It clearly states, that the hand limit is checked at the end of your turn. So it is no problem if you have 25 cards because of the charity of several players. At the end of your turn you need to level it to 5 (or 6 if you are a dwarf). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And charity is defined as:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;(3) Charity: If you have more than five cards in your hand, you must play&#xA;  enough cards to get you to five or below. &lt;strong&gt;If you cannot, or do not want to, you must give the excess cards to the player with the lowest Level&lt;/strong&gt;. If players are tied for lowest, divide the cards as evenly as possible, but it’s up to you who gets the bigger set(s) of leftovers. If YOU are the lowest or tied for lowest, just discard the excess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T09:02:18.277" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T09:02:18.277" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33024" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-13T22:47:15.143" Score="6" ViewCount="13311" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'd like more concrete info about what you can do with items that are being carried or equipped. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Carried items:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q: Can you use the &quot;if you discard this card&quot; effect for items you carry?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q: What kind of cards can be carried? example can I carry a class card?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q: Is there limits to what I can carry? example I'm carrying 4 armor cards.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q: Can I sell cards for gold that I'm carrying?&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q: Are cards you carrying considered to be &quot;in play&quot;?   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Equipped items:&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Q: Some items don't have body icon, is there limits of how many of that type of item I can equip? example in the adventure time version I had a book and a math card that are not one shots but don't have an icon for which body part they belong to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18891" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T00:36:22.600" Title="Munchkin: carrying vs equipped" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33025" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33022" CreationDate="2016-11-13T23:56:32.187" Score="22" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;You still give them to the player.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While you've already got a correct answer, I'd like to explain it a bit further. Specifically, &lt;em&gt;there is no hand limit.&lt;/em&gt; The &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; rule that deals with having too many cards in your hand is the charity rule, which describes what you do during your own charity phase. It doesn't place a limit on players' hands in general, it just describes a condition (when you get to the charity phase of your turn &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you have more than five cards &lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; you do not play them all) and an action (give the cards to a particular player). So there's no conflict here. There's nothing stopping you from giving them the cards, and there's nothing causing them to discard the cards. You just do what the rule says, and nothing more.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6170" LastActivityDate="2016-11-13T23:56:32.187" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33026" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33024" CreationDate="2016-11-14T00:36:22.600" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Note: all rules quotes below are from the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/munchkin_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Munchkin rulebook PDF&lt;/a&gt;. The same or very similar text is found in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldofmunchkin.com/rules/advtime_rules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Adventure Time rulebook PDF&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can you use the &quot;if you discard this card&quot; effect for items you carry?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are talking about one-shot items, absolutely (as long as there is not a restriction on the item that you do not meet).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules specifically state under &lt;strong&gt;&quot;One-Shot&quot; Treasures&lt;/strong&gt; on page 3 that they:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;may be played from your hand or from the table.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This does not specify that they have to be equipped to use.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you have a different item that is not a one-shot and provides a discard ability, as long as you meet the other requirements (if any), then I would think that it is fine to use with carried items.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;What kind of cards can be carried? example can I carry a class card?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, you cannot carry class cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state that only Items can be carried, where an Item is defined  in the &lt;strong&gt;Items&lt;/strong&gt; section on page 3 by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Most Treasures are Items. Items have a Gold Piece&#xA;  value. (“No Value” is equivalent to zero Gold Pieces, and&#xA;  these cards are also Items.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thus any card with a listed gold piece value (or &quot;No Value&quot;) is an Item and can be carried. Class cards do not have a value, nor do they come from the Treasure deck, and therefore cannot be carried.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Is there limits to what I can carry? example I'm carrying 4 armor cards.&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can carry any number of Items that are not Big, but only one Big Item.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules state under &lt;strong&gt;Big Items&lt;/strong&gt; on page 3 that:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may carry any number of Small items, but only one Big&#xA;  one. (Any item not marked Big is considered Small.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Can I sell cards for gold that I'm carrying?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Absolutely. Under the &lt;strong&gt;Selling Items for Levels&lt;/strong&gt; section on page 3 it states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may sell Items from your hand as well as those you are carrying. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Are cards you carrying considered to be &quot;in play&quot;?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. Under &lt;strong&gt;Card Management&lt;/strong&gt; on page 1 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;In Play:&lt;/strong&gt; These are the cards on the table in front of you, showing your Race and Class (if any) and the Items you are carrying.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Some items don't have body icon, is there limits of how many of that type of item I can equip?&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is no limit to how many untyped Items you may have equipped, but where the item has a type there is a limit (for Adventure Time this is the icon in the top left, which is what I assume you mean by the body icon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Under the &lt;strong&gt;Items&lt;/strong&gt; section of page 3 of the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Anyone can carry any Item ... but you may equip only one Headgear, one suit of Armor, one pair of Footgear, and two “1 Hand” Items (or one “2 Hands” Item)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Any item that does not have a type can be equipped without limit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T00:36:22.600" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33027" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="16817" CreationDate="2016-11-14T05:47:20.453" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I recently found &lt;a href=&quot;https://dulst.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://dulst.com&lt;/a&gt; which bills itself as a platform to create card games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://dulst.com&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/bAItx.png&quot; alt=&quot;Dulst&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18892" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T05:47:20.453" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33028" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32977" CreationDate="2016-11-14T11:13:13.833" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Houserules are supreme. If a player keeps making the game un-enjoyable for most, and you can't counter-cheese him, create house-rules that counter his tactic specifically.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;His strategy is indeed valid, although when everyone is playing for fun, a strategy that negates fun, destroys the whole point of the game. Try to make him see that people will either not want to play the game at all, or won't want to play the game with him with his attitude.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T11:13:13.833" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33030" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33008" CreationDate="2016-11-14T13:58:36.680" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The engagement isn't over until all ready units have been focused to strike.  Double Strike must be played &quot;after a Character unit is focused to strike,&quot; which means it can only be played, and therefore can only remove a focus token, DURING the engagement, allowing multiple strikes at the &lt;em&gt;same&lt;/em&gt; objective. If you can destroy an undefended objective in one strike, playing Double Strike does nothing for you- your second strike has nothing to hit.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;See &quot;Resolving a strike&quot; on p 20 of the rules, and &quot;Engagment resolution&quot; (p 31).   CArdgamedb.com is the best place for Star Wars rules and discussion. Some real experts post over there.  Check it out!  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18898" LastActivityDate="2016-11-14T13:58:36.680" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33032" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-15T00:54:15.857" Score="1" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I want all my friends to love Galaxy Trucker as much as I do.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately if not enough pieces fall off your ship, the game isn't as fun. Then people don't want to play again.  This is quite common in the base game; often I just happen to get a mostly planets/open space draw. Do people have more sophisticated methods for (pseudo-)randomizing the cards in order to make sure there's a generous collection of meteoric swarms and laser-blast-dealing cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;After all, if no one's ship falls apart by the end of the first round, then what's the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7404" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T01:32:49.113" Title="How to hook beginners on galaxy trucker by giving them an extra turbulent round one" Tags="|galaxy-trucker|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33034" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33032" CreationDate="2016-11-15T01:26:30.963" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since your question says &quot;often I just happen to get a mostly planets/open space draw&quot; I'm going to assume that you're &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; doing the first time setup that the rules say to do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;From the deck labeled “I”, take the eight cards marked with an asterisk in the lower left corner. Shuffle these eight cards and set them near the flight board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You really should do that. It's basically one of every type of card, so that everyone sees how everything works. The goal is &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; to make it hard, it's to teach them how to play the game, so that they have some hope of building a ship that can do well in later rounds. The first round is deliberately short, and not terribly important in terms of your final score, so it's fine to use it as a teaching moment. There's plenty of opportunity for failure in later rounds, when people will have some idea of what they're doing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would definitely not recommend trying to make it more &quot;turbulent&quot;. Sure, the point of the game is that things go wrong. But there's no need to take that to an extreme; if anything that's even worse for new players. Without any experience, they'll tend to have built ships that don't fare well, while you with your experience will tend to do better, so it's going to look like a really frustrating, punishing game, where they try to build a ship and the game destroys it and they end up with no points.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;After all, if no one's ship falls apart by the end of the first round, then what's the point?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; think this is important, make it &lt;em&gt;your&lt;/em&gt; ship that falls apart. Build something under-connected, stick important things on the exterior, don't put a laser in the center, and so on. But don't deliberately make the game punish new players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In general, I'd say you should give the game a chance to do what it's meant to do. If people don't like the game, don't play it with them. If new players have preconceptions, encourage them to have an open mind, be friendly about the game, and don't pressure them to have exactly the experience you think they should have, just give them the opportunity to enjoy it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-15T01:32:49.113" LastActivityDate="2016-11-15T01:32:49.113" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33036" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33045" CreationDate="2016-11-15T21:04:09.877" Score="0" ViewCount="436" Body="&lt;p&gt;Whenever I have a game of Memoir '44 I feel as if you take ages to set up, and the game is over really quickly, before you have had time to develop tactics. When I win I don't feel like a winner and when I loose I feel cheated. I have tried playing one army just defeat the other, and this became very boring for both players, I have likewise tried increasing the number of victory points you need to win and this has the same problem.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18918" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T16:07:38.517" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T16:07:38.517" Title="How can I make a game of Memoir '44 last longer?" Tags="|memoir-44|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33038" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32803" CreationDate="2016-11-16T01:53:29.533" Score="2" Body="&lt;h2&gt;The most likely reason is that Pepsi went to court over them&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, Pepsi tried to register a &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Community_design&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;community design &lt;/a&gt; (kind of like a trademark, but for shapes, lines, textures, colors, etc. that are associated with a product), but an organization named Grupo Promer had registered something similar first. The court cases were over whether or not Pepsi's pogs were distinctive enough to be granted their own protection. In other words, could a single company have exclusive rights to a plastic or metal disc included in food packaging? How distinctive would a competitor's have to be before they were unique enough?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From this &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.lexology.com/library/detail.aspx?g=a18ba23d-ae86-434e-9ba1-2b59455c634e&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;summary of the court cases&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On 9 September 2003, PepsiCo filed an application with OHIM (Office for Harmonisation in the Internal Market) for the registration of a Community Design pursuant to the CD Regulation. Grupo Promer then claimed priority for its Spanish design No 157156, which had been filed on 23 July 2003 and which application was published on 16 November 2003. Both registrations concern the design for &amp;quot;pogs&amp;quot; or &amp;quot;tazos&amp;quot;: promotional items in the form of plastic or metal discs that are often included in food packaging and are intended mainly for children.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Grupo Promer started an invalidation action before OHIM against PepsiCo's design application, arguing (i) that PepsiCo's design lacked novelty and individual character (on the basis of Article 25(1)(b)) because of Grupo's Promer's earlier Community Design for metal promotional plate(s) for games; and (ii) that PepsiCo's design was &amp;quot;in conflict&amp;quot; with Grupo Promer's prior design (pursuant to Article 25(1)(d)).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As best I can tell, Pepsi wound up losing this case because there wasn't enough distinctiveness in their pogs compared to those of Grupo Promer. The last mention I can find is this from 2011:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;PepsiCo then appealed to the ECJ on the grounds that the General Court had incorrectly interpreted and applied Article 25(1)(d) CD Regulation (conflict with prior design). The Advocate General urged that the appeal be dismissed, noting that a significant number of the grounds of appeal actually concerned findings of fact, and these are not suitable for appeal to the ECJ.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since there haven't been any further mentions of this case, I'm going to assume that the appeal was dismissed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I should note that this is a very plausible explanation for the term &amp;quot;forbidden pogs&amp;quot;, but I could not find the term in any of the legal documents or summaries. There does not appear any documented use of origin of the term.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T01:53:29.533" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33039" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28504" CreationDate="2016-11-16T02:26:02.200" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In a deck of 99 cards, a few cards here and there won't effectively combat an interaction that is only resource dependent. Once the opposing deck has the mana to cast the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSliver%20Overlord%5d&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt; and use its activated abilities, it is going to work. Unless you field a Commander that directly combats the combo, you'll need a general response within the deck that you can readily draw into against the deck, while not crippling your deck against others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h1&gt;Attack the Overlord&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Shut down the combination by crippling the shortcut; without the Commander, your opponent has to draw into the win condition. Beyond the aforementioned &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPhyrexian%20Revoker%5d&quot;&gt;Phyrexian Revoker&lt;/a&gt;, there are cheap affects readily available in green that can target the Commander while still be useful in other situations: &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20@(%7C[G]%7C[C])&amp;amp;text=%20[deathtouch]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Deathtouch&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?sort=cmc%20&amp;amp;action=advanced&amp;amp;color=%20@(%7C[G]%7C[C])&amp;amp;text=%20[fight]&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fight&lt;/a&gt;. Target the Commander extensively, driving up it's casting cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T02:26:02.200" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33040" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33009" CreationDate="2016-11-16T08:31:53.460" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;If the (advanced) search results of BGG do not satisfy you you should try to find additional keywords. One solution is to click on the Designer of the game you are looking for. In the case of Patchwork this is Uwe Rosenberg. There you get a list of all games he designed. If you look at the games you will find that &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/177736/feast-odin&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;A Feast for Odin&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (a more complex game) and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/204027/cottage-garden&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Cottage Garden&quot;&lt;/a&gt; (more or less the same complexity as patchwork) use the same puzzling mechanism. If you check these BGG pages you can find additional Categories and Mechanisms for such games and use them in the advanced search.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15438" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T08:31:53.460" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33041" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33043" CreationDate="2016-11-16T12:49:17.567" Score="3" ViewCount="4023" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am playing &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBrago%2c%20King%20Eternal%5d&quot;&gt;Brago, King Eternal&lt;/a&gt; as my Commander and I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCloudform%5d&quot;&gt;Cloudform&lt;/a&gt; attached to a Manifested card. What will happen if I use Brago's trigger (exile permanent and return to the battlefield) on both Cloudform and the Manifest?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Will the Manifest be revealed? Will it be flipped? If so, what happens if the Manifest is an instant/sorcery?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Please reference the rules when answering.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17616" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T14:02:12.320" LastActivityDate="2018-08-22T03:51:17.993" Title="How does &quot;Exile and return to battlefield&quot; work with a Manifest" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33042" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-16T13:07:17.627" Score="1" ViewCount="203" Body="&lt;p&gt;What happens if I pocket my last c/m along with striker?&#xA;Opponent's &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; C/m are still on board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I win with minimum &lt;strong&gt;n&lt;/strong&gt; points?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will it be a double-due?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Will I lose the game?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18921" LastEditorUserId="18921" LastEditDate="2018-07-06T05:16:02.590" LastActivityDate="2018-07-06T05:16:02.590" Title="Pocketing last c/m along with striker" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-01-12T17:41:59.547" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33043" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33041" CreationDate="2016-11-16T13:26:43.377" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your first two questions are a duplicate of this &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/20530/does-exiling-a-morph-card-face-down-for-the-turn-bring-it-back-face-up&quot;&gt;question.&lt;/a&gt; (Yes revealed.  Yes flipped)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For your third question, it won't return from exile:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;304.4. Instants can’t enter the battlefield. If an instant would enter the battlefield, it remains in its previous zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;307.4. Sorceries can’t enter the battlefield. If a sorcery would enter the battlefield, it remains in its previous zone instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T15:57:21.630" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33044" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28504" CreationDate="2016-11-16T14:40:43.607" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm guessing there are 4 players in the game. If it's 4 player commander, make everyone very aware of the danger of his commander entering the battlefield. Build an alliance against him to keep him in check. It hurts to be on the receiving end of everyone ganging up on us, but he is inviting such tactics by using a turtle strategy.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: I know you want green solutions, but I'd do this myself. Make a cheap red land destruction deck. Target the lands he is hurting for in that game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastEditorUserId="18895" LastEditDate="2016-11-16T14:47:05.617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T14:47:05.617" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33045" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33036" CreationDate="2016-11-16T14:51:58.807" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Well the overlord game certainly takes a little longer if you have the players for it (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/other-expansions/overlord/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/other-expansions/overlord/&lt;/a&gt;).  Also using more of the specialized units from the other expansions can prolong the game a tad.  Also the online version (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daysofwonder.com/online/en/#m44&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://www.daysofwonder.com/online/en/#m44&lt;/a&gt;) of the game is extremely well done, for me it's hard to actually setup the physical game anymore because online I can play games quickly.  However this hardly prolongs the game, but you can learn a lot more strategy by playing online and play other scenarios more quickly online.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are actually wanting to change the rules of the game, it's hard to do since Memoir 44 is very well balanced as it is.  What you could do is make units harder to kill.  Give all units &quot;hitpoints&quot; so that they require multiple hits to kill.  Also you can make up scenarios which are more difficult by adding units and more objectives and raising the amount of units needed to defeat your opponent.  I imagine you could use some of these methods as a handicap as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1579" LastActivityDate="2016-11-16T14:51:58.807" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33046" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20861" CreationDate="2016-11-16T21:11:29.300" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I wanted a chart that is legible when printed, so I came up with the following:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Disclaimer&lt;/strong&gt;: this chart is based on the old rules, and so the particulars are very incorrect. But If someone is interested in enumerating the issues, I will update the chart. Consider editing my answer with a list of errata at the bottom. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I found &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.essentialmagic.com/rules/turnstructure.asp&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this chart&lt;/a&gt; that has a lot of detail - I copy-pasted it into excel and tweaked the formatting a bit because I wanted to print it. I also added the mana pool emptying to it, based on @Zaga's. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wl1ZK.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Wl1ZK.png&quot; alt=&quot;Turn Structure&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1lRS.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1lRS.png&quot; alt=&quot;Combat Phase Detail&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But, as pointed out in the comments, the rules here are out of date.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18923" LastEditorUserId="18923" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T23:49:17.850" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T23:49:17.850" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33051" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33052" CreationDate="2016-11-17T18:12:55.277" Score="8" ViewCount="636" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a new Magic: the Gathering product called &lt;em&gt;Welcome Deck 2016&lt;/em&gt;.  This consists of five 30 card preconstructed decks, and has its own expansion symbol.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The webpage &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/en/products/magic-welcome-decks&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&quot;Magic Welcome Decks&quot; on Wizards Play Network&lt;/a&gt; says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each deck includes 1 special rare that cannot be found in other Magic products!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But from Gatherer, it doesn't seem like that's true.  Gatherer lists five rares in this product: Aegis Angel,  Nightmare,  Shivan Dragon,  Soul of the Harvest,  Sphinx of Magosi.  All five of those are already accessible as rares in recent core sets or expansion sets that predate this product. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The linked page also indicates that the product was released on April 9 of an unknown year.  I guess that the year is 2016 or perhaps 2015, so the product was already released.  This is confirmed by &lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_10nov16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Tournament Rules&lt;/a&gt; which says all cards of that set are legal in the Standard format. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Does this product really have cards that don't appear in other M:tG products?&lt;/strong&gt;  If so, which cards are they? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2804" LastEditorUserId="2804" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T11:27:01.853" LastActivityDate="2021-02-16T17:50:18.127" Title="Does Welcome Decks 2016 contain cards that aren't reprints?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33052" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33051" CreationDate="2016-11-17T18:28:31.697" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;There do not appear to be any cards that were &lt;em&gt;only&lt;/em&gt; printed in the Welcome Decks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most likely explanation I see is that the rares you mention appear in the Welcome Decks but not in the concurrently released Shadows over Innistrad block. So, the quotation you reference could mean&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Each deck includes 1 special rare that cannot be found in other Magic products [that we are currently publishing/distributing]!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-11-17T18:28:31.697" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33053" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33056" CreationDate="2016-11-18T01:37:53.353" Score="2" ViewCount="480" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was looking through different cards to try and find something to counteract my dad's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSliver%20Overlord%5d&quot;&gt;Sliver Overlord&lt;/a&gt; aside from directly killing or exiling it, and when I initially saw &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; I got really excited, but then I saw it didn't target mana abilities, which kind of renders it useless against the Overlord.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a card that does target mana abilities, or will I just have to exile/destroy his Overlord?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T12:10:38.097" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T12:10:38.097" Title="Can I disable Sliver Overlord's abilities with Pithing Needle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33054" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33055" CreationDate="2016-11-18T02:06:08.397" Score="2" ViewCount="618" Body="&lt;p&gt;In doing research on how to counter activated abilities (See &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/33053/how-to-prevent-mana-activated-abilities&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;) I found the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; and I wondered: do Loyalty Abilities count within the activated abilities targeted by Pithing Needle's text?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T12:09:19.087" Title="Would Loyalty Abilities be negated by Pithing Needle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33055" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33054" CreationDate="2016-11-18T02:06:08.397" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPithing%20Needle%5d&quot;&gt;Pithing Needle&lt;/a&gt; would &lt;em&gt;always&lt;/em&gt; nullify the planeswalker's loyalty abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;According to rule 306.5d of the November 11, 2016 edition of the Magic: The Gathering Comprehensive Rules, loyalty abilities are activated abilities that (typically) do not produce mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;306.5d Each planeswalker has a number of loyalty abilities, &lt;strong&gt;which are activated abilities with&#xA;  loyalty symbols in their costs&lt;/strong&gt;. Loyalty abilities follow special rules: A player may activate a&#xA;  loyalty ability of a permanent he or she controls any time he or she has priority and the stack is&#xA;  empty during a main phase of his or her turn, but only if none of that permanent’s loyalty&#xA;  abilities have been activated that turn. See rule 606, “Loyalty Abilities.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this is echoed in rule 606.2 of the same compendium.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;606.2. &lt;strong&gt;An activated ability with a loyalty symbol in its cost is a loyalty ability.&lt;/strong&gt; Normally, only&#xA;  planeswalkers have loyalty abilities&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Additionally, as Jefromi pointed out, loyalty abilities are never mana abilities according to rule 605.1a&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;605.1a An activated ability is a mana ability if it meets all of the following criteria: it doesn’t have a&#xA;  target, it could put mana into a player’s mana pool when it resolves, &lt;strong&gt;&lt;em&gt;and&lt;/em&gt; it’s not a loyalty&#xA;  ability.&lt;/strong&gt; (See rule 606, “Loyalty Abilities.”) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T12:09:19.087" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T12:09:19.087" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33056" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33053" CreationDate="2016-11-18T02:07:44.653" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;Sliver Overlord's abilities are not mana abilities. Mana abilities are abilities that &lt;em&gt;produce&lt;/em&gt; mana, like the ability on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSylvan%20Caryatid%5d&quot;&gt;Sylvan Caryatid&lt;/a&gt;. (There are a few restrictions; not &lt;em&gt;everything&lt;/em&gt; that produces mana is a mana ability. See &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Mana_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 605.1&lt;/a&gt; if you're curious.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Sliver Overlord's abilities are simple activated abilities, with mana in their &lt;em&gt;cost&lt;/em&gt;. Pithing Needle will work just fine against them, as will anything else that prevents abilities from being activated (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bArrest%5d&quot;&gt;Arrest&lt;/a&gt;), and anything that makes it lose abilities (e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLignify%5d&quot;&gt;Lignify&lt;/a&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T02:11:15.650" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T02:11:15.650" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33057" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33058" CreationDate="2016-11-18T02:36:45.187" Score="5" ViewCount="21696" Body="&lt;p&gt;Since an emblem is neither a card nor a permanent, and doesn't have a card type (as per rule 113.5, shown below), &quot;has no name, no types, no mana cost, and no color&quot; (rule 113.3, also below), and (as pointed out by murgatroid99) &lt;em&gt;isn't even on the battlefield in the first place&lt;/em&gt; (rule 113.1, ... also below), is there any way to either nullify or destroy/exile it?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;113.5. An emblem is neither a card nor a permanent. Emblem isn’t a card type.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;113.3. An emblem has no characteristics other than the abilities defined by the effect that created it. In&#xA;  particular, an emblem has no name, no types, no mana cost, and no color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;113.1. Some effects put emblems into the command zone. An emblem is a marker used to represent an&#xA;  object that has one or more abilities, but no other characteristics.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6082" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2018-03-04T04:03:09.913" LastActivityDate="2018-03-04T04:03:09.913" Title="Is there any way to remove an emblem?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-emblems|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33058" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33057" CreationDate="2016-11-18T02:45:27.877" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are currently no cards that explicitly remove emblems. The only way to get rid of an emblem is by activating the last loyalty ability on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKarn%20Liberated%5d&quot;&gt;Karn Liberated&lt;/a&gt;. This restarts the game, and resets everything in the game except a specific set of cards that he keeps track of.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mechanically, an emblem is intended to be a reward, in some sense, for completing a somewhat complicated process: casting a Planeswalker, adding to its loyalty for multiple turns, and then activating its expensive ability, all while keeping your opponent from messing up the plan. Because they are so hard to obtain, they are correspondingly difficult to remove. Some are easier to obtain, like the one from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGideon%2c%20Ally%20of%20Zendikar%5d&quot;&gt;Gideon, Ally of Zendikar&lt;/a&gt;, but they are also weaker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T06:34:34.480" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T06:34:34.480" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33059" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-18T06:49:39.760" Score="-2" ViewCount="309" Body="&lt;p&gt;I cast a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFiery%20Temper%5d&quot;&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/a&gt; targeting &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElectrostatic%20Pummeler%5d&quot;&gt;Electrostatic Pummeler&lt;/a&gt;. My opponent then pays 6 Enery Counters so that Pummeler can be a 4/4 but I responded with triggering &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDynavolt%20Tower%5d&quot;&gt;Dynavolt Tower&lt;/a&gt; dealing another 3 damage to Pummeler but he pays another 3 energy so that his Pummeler can be an 8/8. Is this correct? I think the way it works is that Pummeler will be 2/2 when my Dynavolt triggers and that will kill it. Or does Pummeler become an 8/8 and will only take 6 damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think stack is like this&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fiery Temper -&gt; Eloctrostatic Pummeler -&gt; Pummeler Pays 6 Enery -&gt; Dynavolt Tower -&gt; Pummeler Pays 3 Energy&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18936" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T07:28:01.490" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T01:04:40.280" Title="When does the activated ability resolve?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33060" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33059" CreationDate="2016-11-18T07:23:28.030" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a little ambiguity around the part where your opponent payed 6 energy to activate Electrostatic Pummeler's ability twice, but if we follow the tournament rules, the Pummeler survives this whole ordeal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Assuming that you started out with enough energy to activate Dynavolt Tower, the situation plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Fiery Temper. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent declares that they pay 6 energy to activate Electrostatic Pummeler's ability twice. If we follow the tournament rules, then this is a shortcut for &quot;Activate the ability, then let it resolve, then activate it again&quot;. This means that if you're responding to this, you have two choices. You can either respond to the first activation, or to the second.&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you respond to the first activation, you are interrupting the shortcut, so they have only activate the ability once. The Pummeler is a 1/1, your opponent still has 6+ energy, and this is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then the rest plays out like this:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay 5 energy to activate Dynavolt Tower. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Pummeler's ability twice with the 6 energy they still have. At this point, you have no responses, so both resolve, and the Pummeler ends up as a 4/4. This is still the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's ability resolves. The Pummeler is now a 4/4 with 3 damage marked. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Pummeler's ability resolves. The Pummeler is now an 8/8 with 3 damage marked. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper resolves. The Pummeler is now an 8/8 with 6 damage marked. It survives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If instead you respond to the second activation, you are accepting the shortcut, and one of the abilities has resolved. The Pummeler is a 2/2, your opponent has 3 energy, and this is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Then the rest plays out like this:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay 5 energy to activate Dynavolt Tower. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Pummeler's ability once with the 3 energy they still have. At this point, you have no responses, so it resolves, and the Pummeler ends up as a 4/4. This is still the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's ability resolves. The Pummeler is now a 4/4 with 3 damage marked. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler's ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Pummeler's ability resolves. The Pummeler is now an 8/8 with 3 damage marked. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper resolves. The Pummeler is now an 8/8 with 6 damage marked. It survives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you started this situation with less than 5 energy, the situation is actually a lot simpler (assuming your opponent made correct plays). In this case, it plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You cast Fiery Temper. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's triggered ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent responds declaring that they pay 6 energy to activate Electrostatic Pummeler's ability twice. This time, you don't have enough energy to activate Dynavolt Tower's activated ability, so both Pummeler activations resolve. The Pummeler is now a 4/4. This is still the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's triggered ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's triggered ability resolves. You gain 2 energy. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You activate Dynavolt Tower's activated ability. This is the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Your opponent activates Pummeler's ability again. You have no responses, so you let it resolve. Pummeler is now an 8/8. This is still the stack:&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower's activated ability&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Neither players have any more responses, so we let both the ability and the Fiery Temper resolve. Each deals 3 damage to the Pummeler, so the result is that the Pummeler is a 8/8 with 6 damage marked. Again, it survives.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T07:23:28.030" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33061" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33070" CreationDate="2016-11-18T10:12:53.363" Score="13" ViewCount="15565" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've recently learned about holding the priority after playing a spell or ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand this can be used for beneficial effects affecting your own spells, for instance copying your own instant/sorcery with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=191322&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Twincast&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=290289&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Reverberate&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But since the stack resolves it's content 1 by 1, I don't see how playing two spells back to back without passing priority would differ from playing one, let it resolve, then play another.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Apart from spell copying/redirecting/etc... effects, what would holding the priority allow a player to achieve ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18667" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T19:10:11.660" Title="What are the uses of holding priority?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-priority|" AnswerCount="5" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33062" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33061" CreationDate="2016-11-18T14:47:33.473" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The only time I've ever had to do this is playing around &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bExtirpate%5d&quot;&gt;Extirpate&lt;/a&gt;. In the particular scenario that came up, my opponent had just milled a large portion of my deck, including a lightning bolt (me playing burn). I had two more in my hand. If I cast one and try to let it resolve, my opponent can Extirpate Lightning Bolt and remove the other from my hand. My best option is to dump both of them on the stack before giving my opponent priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Split Second is unique in that it doesn't let you respond to it, so effects that don't use the stack or otherwise shut down the stack until they resolve are a good place to look, even if it might end up a little contrived. Imagine a Manifested &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVoid%20Winnower%5d&quot;&gt;Void Winnower&lt;/a&gt;. Since flipping it face up is a special action that doesn't use the stack, the opponent can do it as soon as they get priority, immediately shutting me down from casting any even-CMC spells. In that case, if I have know it's there, and I have two spells I need to cast, I should put both of them on the stack before giving priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However, you are correct; 90% of the time it is correct to cast, wait to resolve, then cast the next spell. The examples I gave were very much corner cases, and the second one I'm fairly confident will never happen in a game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T16:13:53.920" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:13:53.920" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33064" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28591" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:03:09.233" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm pretty sure yes. You don't need to use the main rule books Primary Detachment if you don't want to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18940" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:03:09.233" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33065" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25694" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:09:07.127" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Death Company Squad:&#xA;+5 models&#xA;+4 power fists&#xA;+4 power swords&#xA;+2 Thunder Hammers&#xA;+10 Hand Flamers&#xA;+10 Jump packs&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For 550 points, you will have a nice, beautiful unit able to crush anyone in CQC. That being said, they are a bullet magnet. A Death Company Marines has +1 Attack base, along with: Fearless, Feel No Pain, Furious Charge, Rage and Relentless. So yeah. Brutal.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Or you could take a Death Company Dreadnought.&#xA;Or a Terminator Assault Squad (Blood Angels) and deck them out with Storm Shields and Thunder Hammers. Take BA ones because they get Furious Charge by virtue of being a Blood Angel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18941" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:09:07.127" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33066" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25694" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:18:46.767" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;For HQ: Take a Librarian Dreadnought and give it Lvl 2 (OH YEAH!)&#xA;For troops: 2 Tactical Squads, plus 1 model in each, give them a heavy weapon (your choice) and dedicate a Razorback to it (and give it a twin-linked assault cannon).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Elites&#xA;1 Death Company squad (see above post for specs)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For Heavy:&#xA;Devastator Squad. Probably outfit them with missiles but whatever.&#xA;Stormraven.To get the most bang for you space, increase the size of the Devastor Squad and get another (regular sized) HQ. Stick said squad inside and hitch up the Dreadnought. Give it a locator beacon, fly right where you want the Death Company, and have them Deep Strike (Perils free!) to do damage. The passengers will have to cover for them, since their first turn out there they can't assault (said flamers will help in Overwatch if they get charged).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Take this list and enjoy the tears!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18942" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:18:46.767" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33067" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33036" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:22:32.110" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Do you play each scenario twice (switching side each time)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This has a double advantage:&#xA;First, you set the scenario up once every other game instead of once each game.&#xA;Second, as the scenarios are based on true events, they are not always 50/50 balanced. The idea by playing on both sides is to get a global score (sum the medals up to get an overall winner).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you feel it's still too short you might want to investigate &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/maps-and-boards/breakthrough/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Breakthrough mode&lt;/a&gt; which can be enhanced by &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.daysofwonder.com/memoir44/en/other-expansions/winter-wars/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Winter Wars Expansion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13589" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:22:32.110" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33069" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25638" CreationDate="2016-11-18T16:27:54.360" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You couldn't take him inside a GK formation, but you could have him join a GK squad (say, Paladins with a Librarian) since he is an Independent Character.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18943" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T16:27:54.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33070" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33061" CreationDate="2016-11-18T17:37:38.323" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You hold priority when you need to take additional actions before a previous action resolves, and those additional actions depend on the previous actions.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That is the general answer to your question. The list of specific examples would be endless, and so I'll only provide one example that falls outside of the &quot;spell copying/redirect&quot; category.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Example:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You have four cards in your graveyard.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bJace%2c%5d%2b%5bVryn%27s%5d%2b%5bProdigy%5d&quot;&gt;Jace, Vryn&amp;#39;s Prodigy&lt;/a&gt; and hold priority.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate and resolve &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMinamo%2c%5d%2b%5bSchool%5d%2b%5bat%5d%2b%5bWater%27s%5d%2b%5bEdge%5d&quot;&gt;Minamo, School at Water&amp;#39;s Edge&lt;/a&gt; to untap Jace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Activate Jace.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you had not held priority after activating Jace's ability, then Jace would have transformed before you had a chance to activate him a second time. By holding priority, you got a &quot;bonus&quot; activation out of Jace.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that in order for any spell or ability to resolve, both players must pass priority without taking any other actions. At Competitive and Professional REL, when a spell or ability is added to the stack, its controller is assumed to have passed priority unless they explicitly state otherwise. That explicit statement is what most players call &quot;holding priority&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/a/20875/6692&quot;&gt;This answer to another question&lt;/a&gt; goes into far more detail about not only why holding priority matters, but why priority in general matters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6692" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2018-08-23T19:10:11.660" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T19:10:11.660" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33072" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5418" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:26:30.643" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;In pinochle, to make it easier on you and to get you start it. Just count All the Aces first (4 of each) and trump (20 cards in total). Just focus on these cards and as you practice, you will notice that everything else will become easier to count.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As you go, you will find your own way of counting cards. Good luck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18947" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T21:26:30.643" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33073" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33076" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:30:27.883" Score="-1" ViewCount="2809" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBeseech%20the%20Queen%5d&quot;&gt;Beseech the Queen&lt;/a&gt; in my commander colors identity? My commander is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDrana%2c%20Kalastria%20Bloodchief%5d&quot;&gt;Drana, Kalastria Bloodchief&lt;/a&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17966" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T22:02:56.187" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T22:02:56.187" Title="Does monocolored hybrid mana count within that color's identity?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33074" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:39:12.660" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;The Duke&lt;/em&gt; is a tile-based strategy game involving moving pieces to capture the other player's Duke. It was first published by Catalyst Game Labs in 2012 after a successful Kickstarter drive.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/36235/duke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/450703636/the-duke&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kickstarter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T22:29:31.333" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T22:29:31.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33075" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:39:12.660" Score="0" Body="A tile-based strategy game involving moving pieces to capture the other player's Duke." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-18T22:29:44.410" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T22:29:44.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33076" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33073" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:39:30.347" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, its color identity is black so you can play it in any deck that includes black in its commander's color identity (like Drana).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A hybrid mana symbol grants the color of both sides of the symbol to the color identity of the card. However Beseech the Queen uses {2/B} hybrid symbols which are colorless and black. Since colorless is not a color black is the only color added to the cards color identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;107.4e&lt;/strong&gt; Hybrid mana symbols are also colored mana symbols. Each one represents a cost that can be paid in one of two ways, as represented by the two halves of the symbol. A hybrid symbol such as {W/U} can be paid with either white or blue mana, and a monocolored hybrid symbol such as {2/B} can be paid with either one black mana or two mana of any type. &lt;strong&gt;A hybrid mana symbol is all of its component colors.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;903.4.&lt;/strong&gt; The Commander variant uses color identity to determine what cards can be in a deck with a certain commander. The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card’s mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-18T21:39:30.347" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33077" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:58:29.613" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Orléans&lt;/em&gt; is a pool building game set in Medieval France in which players compete in trade, construction and science. It was first published in 2014 by dlp games.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;External Links&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/164928/orleans&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;BoardGameGeek&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-19T01:29:21.637" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T01:29:21.637" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33078" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-18T21:58:29.613" Score="0" Body="A pool building game set in Medieval France in which players compete in trade, construction and science." OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-19T01:29:24.390" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T01:29:24.390" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33079" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-18T22:50:13.620" Score="1" ViewCount="8350" Body="&lt;p&gt;My friend and I are new to Magic and we're in disagreement about something. I'm going to describe the situation: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have six mana cards on the field. I have laid down a creature on the battlefield, say it costs three mana. &#xA;Do I &#xA;(1) Tap the three mana that's detailed on the creature's card? Or not tap it? Is it just simply in my pool? I'm not attacking at this point, only laying it down. &#xA;(2) When I attack with a creature, or use a spell or instant, do I not  tap (as in turn to the side) the mana that is detailed on that specific card? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Am v confuse. V confuse indeed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18948" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T12:57:37.350" Title="Question about mana." Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33080" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33079" CreationDate="2016-11-18T23:05:26.980" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, you cannot have mana on the battlefield. Mana is something that only exists in your mana pool after being generated (usually by tapping a land, though there are other things that can do this too like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSol%20Ring%5d&quot;&gt;Sol Ring&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDark%20Ritual%5d&quot;&gt;Dark Ritual&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Mystic%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;). Now for your questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You pay for a spell when you cast it, so if you are casting a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGray%20Ogre%5d&quot;&gt;Gray Ogre&lt;/a&gt; you would need to generate 3 mana (1 red and 2 of any kind). You would generate this mana by tapping lands in most cases.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You do not need to pay any mana for a creature to attack (unless an effect like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPropaganda%5d&quot;&gt;Propaganda&lt;/a&gt; requires you to).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdfhttp://media.wizards.com/2014/docs/EN_M15_QckStrtBklt_LR_Crop.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTG Quick Start Guide&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting spells:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You must pay mana for each of these symbols in order to cast Shivan Dragon. The symbol {R} means one red mana. The symbol {4} means four mana of any kind. So you have to pay two red mana and four mana of any kind to pay this cost.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When you want to pay a mana cost, tap (turn sideways) the necessary lands on the battlefield. This shows that you’ve used those lands to produce mana.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Attacking:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;During your turn, you decide which of your creatures, if any, will attack. You can’t attack with a creature if it’s tapped or if it entered the battlefield this turn. You have one combat phase in the middle of your turn, and all the creatures you decide to attack with attack at the same time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Once you’ve decided which of your creatures are attacking, tap those creatures. Your tapped creatures, like your tapped lands, will untap at the beginning of your next turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2017-04-05T12:57:37.350" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33081" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33079" CreationDate="2016-11-19T11:28:36.783" Score="6" Body="&lt;h2&gt;Mana pool and mana abilities&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana is a resource stored in a so-called pool, which means players keep track of it, but it's not represented by anything usually (though players may choose to use counters for that purpose). It's important not to confuse lands, for example, with mana - they are permanents that produce mana in most cases, but they aren't mana themselves. Instead, they have abilities that produce mana, called mana abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;112.4.&lt;/strong&gt; Some activated abilities and some triggered abilities are mana abilities. Mana abilities follow special rules: They don’t use the stack, and, under certain circumstances, a player can activate mana abilities even if he or she doesn’t have priority. See rule 605, &amp;quot;Mana Abilities.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Mana abilities can different in nature, and not all require you to tap the permanent to produce mana (such as &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAshnod%27s%5d%2b%5bAltar%5d&quot;&gt;Ashnod&amp;#39;s Altar&lt;/a&gt;. However, most mana sources will simply give you a single mana if you tap the permanent producing it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Basic Lands&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basic Lands don't explicitly state what they do, but there's a rule defining their mana ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;305.6.&lt;/strong&gt; The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. If an object uses the words &amp;quot;basic land type,&amp;quot; it's referring to one of these subtypes. A land with a basic land type has the intrinsic ability &amp;quot;T: Add [mana symbol] to your mana pool,&amp;quot; even if the text box doesn't actually contain that text or the object has no text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is W; for Islands, U; for Swamps, B; for Mountains, R; and for Forests, G. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Older versions of basic lands had a more &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=4947&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;obvious rendering&lt;/a&gt;, which helps to visualize the concept.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Using mana to cast spells&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can activate mana abilities any time you have priority, but also when a spell or effect requires you to pay mana, such as when you attempt to cast a spell. This means that there are two ways you can generally go about using mana to cast a spell:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Announce the spell you're casting, and in the process of doing so, producing the required amounts of mana.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Producing the required amounts of mana before doing anything else (known as &amp;quot;floating&amp;quot; mana), then announce to cast a spell and using the mana in your pool to pay for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The mana cost of a card indicates the mana you have to pay to cast it - nothing more. Once the creature is on the battlefield, it's mana cost becomes mostly irrelevant (other than for effects that care about it's converted mana cost or it's color, for example).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you put the creature on the battlefield in other ways than casting it as a spell, you don't have to pay the mana cost either. If you cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTooth%20and%20Nail%5d&quot;&gt;Tooth and Nail&lt;/a&gt;, for example, you pay the cost of that card, while the creatures put onto the battlefield simply are put there by the effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Attacking with creatures&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Though you do not usually have to pay a cost to attack with a creature, there are several requirements for you to be able to do so. For example, you must be able to tap a creature to declare it as an attacker, even for creatures that have Vigilance (which doesn't cause them to be tapped when attacking).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1a.&lt;/strong&gt; The active player chooses which creatures that he or she controls, if any, will attack. The chosen creatures must be untapped, and each one must either have haste or have been controlled by the active player continuously since the turn began.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;508.1f.&lt;/strong&gt; The active player taps the chosen creatures. Tapping a creature when it’s declared as an attacker isn’t a cost; attacking simply causes creatures to become tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T11:51:41.513" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33082" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33084" CreationDate="2016-11-19T15:57:10.140" Score="2" ViewCount="4856" Body="&lt;p&gt;When &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bIth%2c%20High%20Arcanist%5d&quot;&gt;Ith, High Arcanist&lt;/a&gt; is in command zone, can I use its suspend ability?&#xA;Does the suspend activity cost increase the second time or is the additional cost is only applied to casting cost?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2532" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-19T18:52:47.910" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T18:52:47.910" Title="Can I suspend Ith, High Arcanist as my commander directly from the command zone?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33083" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33082" CreationDate="2016-11-19T16:25:31.590" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't use the suspend ability. From the card's Gatherer rulings:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;7/1/2013: In a Commander game where this card is your commander, you cannot suspend it from the Command zone.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2532" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-19T17:31:54.710" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T17:31:54.710" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33084" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33082" CreationDate="2016-11-19T17:34:11.663" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, you cannot.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Suspend means:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.61. Suspend&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;702.61a Suspend is a keyword that represents three abilities. &lt;strong&gt;The first is a static ability that functions while the card with suspend is in a player’s hand.&lt;/strong&gt; The second and third are triggered abilities that function in the exile zone. “Suspend N—[cost]” means “&lt;strong&gt;If you could begin to cast this card by putting it onto the stack from your hand&lt;/strong&gt;, you may pay [cost] and exile it with N time counters on it. This action doesn’t use the stack,” and “At the beginning of your upkeep, if this card is suspended, remove a time counter from it,” and “When the last time counter is removed from this card, if it’s exiled, play it without paying its mana cost if able. If you can’t, it remains exiled. If you cast a creature spell this way, it gains haste until you lose control of the spell or the permanent it becomes.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can only use Suspend from your hand. Since the Command zone is a zone different from your hand, you cannot use Suspend.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is also summarised in the reminder text for Ith's Suspend ability, which can be read on Gatherer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-19T18:28:23.703" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33086" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33091" CreationDate="2016-11-20T01:44:20.730" Score="3" ViewCount="184" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;QUESTION&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dou_dizhu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;dou dizhu&lt;/a&gt;, is &lt;code&gt;K-K-K-K-A-A-A-A-4-7&lt;/code&gt; assumed to be a standard hand type?  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;BACKGROUND&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I understand the '飞机带小翼' (i.e. &quot;airplane with small wings&quot;, or consecutive triplets with added cards, for example: &lt;code&gt;K-K-K-A-A-A-4-7&lt;/code&gt; ) hand type to be a valid hand by way of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.pagat.com/climbing/doudizhu.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Pagat rules&lt;/a&gt; and by &lt;a href=&quot;https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dou_dizhu&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Wikipedia also refers to a hand type called '航天飞机带小翼', or &quot;space shuttle with small wings&quot;, which consists of consecutive quads with added cards (e.g. &lt;code&gt;K-K-K-K-A-A-A-A-4-7&lt;/code&gt;).  I'm not sure where to find an official, standardized set of rules for dou dizhu because I don't speak Chinese, so I'm trying to figure out if the quads thing is a regional variant.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18954" LastEditorUserId="18954" LastEditDate="2016-11-20T02:10:59.897" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T11:30:10.500" Title="Is K-K-K-K-A-A-A-A-4-7 a valid hand in Dou Dizhu (aka &quot;Fighting The Landlord&quot;)?" Tags="|dou-dizhu|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33087" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30169" CreationDate="2016-11-20T01:47:45.787" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes.  From the official Rio Grande rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Do I have to use the Phoenix to fullfill a wish?&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes. The next player who has a card of the desired rank and can lawfully play it must play it. Even if&#xA;he has to play a bomb &lt;strong&gt;or a sequence of appropriate length with the Phoenix.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18954" LastEditorUserId="18954" LastEditDate="2023-11-13T21:34:56.310" LastActivityDate="2023-11-13T21:34:56.310" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33088" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="30049" CreationDate="2016-11-20T02:05:55.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The &lt;a href=&quot;http://riograndegames.com/uploads/Game/Game_190_gameRules.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;official Rio Grande rules&lt;/a&gt; sort of seem to imply that &quot;tichu&quot; and &quot;grand tichu&quot; are mutually exclusive.  From the &quot;tactical hints&quot; section of the official rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Good tichu players keep an eye on the score. If the score is 630:970, for example, a grand tichu is begging to be played.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd argue that if players were allowed to call &lt;em&gt;both&lt;/em&gt; tichu and grand tichu in the same hand, I think it would make sense for the rulebook to encourage the player in this situation to call both - but it doesn't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For practical purposes, it might be worth considering implementing a house rule that no &lt;strong&gt;single&lt;/strong&gt; player may call both tichu and grand tichu, but that both players &lt;em&gt;on the same team&lt;/em&gt; may both call tichu or grand tichu individually (in rare cases, one player may want to &quot;hedge&quot; their partner's tichu).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18954" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T02:05:55.223" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33089" PostTypeId="5" CreationDate="2016-11-20T02:14:15.050" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Dou dizhu (also known as 斗地主 or &quot;Fighting the Landlord&quot;) is a three-player Chinese card game where players compete to shed all of the cards in their hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18954" LastEditorUserId="18954" LastEditDate="2016-11-20T18:20:46.817" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T18:20:46.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33090" PostTypeId="4" CreationDate="2016-11-20T02:14:15.050" Score="0" Body="Dou dizhu (also known as 斗地主 or &quot;Fighting the Landlord&quot;) is a three-player Chinese card game where players compete to shed all of the cards in their hand." OwnerUserId="18954" LastEditorUserId="18954" LastEditDate="2016-11-20T18:20:51.010" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T18:20:51.010" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33091" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33086" CreationDate="2016-11-20T11:21:57.797" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;As far as I know, no, quads cannot be sequenced, let alone &quot;with wings&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That said, Dou Dizhu, like many other games of Chinese origin, is a game with many local variantions and house rules. (Most variations comes in how the landlord is determined.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While I will not be surprized if some people play with quad squences, it would rarely make a difference because&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;it is already unusual that a player has an &quot;airplane&quot; or a bomb, having two consecutive quads are much rarer. (By my calculations, ~.1% for the landlord and ~.02% for the peasants)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;like the quad sets (&quot;quad with two&quot; and &quot;quad with two pairs&quot;), it is seldom advantageous to play it and give up the bomb&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least in my area, &quot;space shuttle&quot; (穿梭機) refers to a sequence of three triplets.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18955" LastEditorUserId="18955" LastEditDate="2016-11-20T11:30:10.500" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T11:30:10.500" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33092" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-20T14:35:39.427" Score="3" ViewCount="1315" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 5 players. Player 1 kicks down door, there is a monster he needs help with. A player agrees to help. Can the other three players all use a wandering monster card and a monster card? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If so are the two players now fighting 4 monsters or 3 because the first monster dies at the moment the player said he/she would help? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If the two beat all the monsters, do both get levels per monster killed or just player one?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18956" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-11-20T15:20:27.287" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T15:22:07.413" Title="Confused on helping and wandering monsters in munchkin zombies" Tags="|munchkin|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33093" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33092" CreationDate="2016-11-20T15:22:07.413" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;The two players would have to defeat all 4 monsters. After getting help, the other players are allowed a reasonable amount of time to interfere before you can claim levels and treasure.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And just like normal getting help, only player 1 gets the levels, but both share the treasure. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T15:22:07.413" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33094" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33095" CreationDate="2016-11-20T19:28:07.457" Score="7" ViewCount="63235" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=augur%20of%20skulls&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Augur of Skulls&lt;/a&gt; has &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;{1}{B}: Regenerate Augur of Skulls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;and &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Sacrifice Augur of Skulls: Target player discards two cards. Activate this ability only during your upkeep.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I sacrifice and regenerate Augur of Skulls multiple times in the same turn as long as I have the mana open? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17966" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-20T20:01:29.477" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T20:09:46.760" Title="Can I sacrifice and regenerate Augur of Skulls multiple times in the same turn?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33095" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33094" CreationDate="2016-11-20T20:04:22.853" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, that won't work&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Regeneration prevents the destruction of a permanent, but sacrificing a permanent is different from destroying it:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.16. Sacrifice&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;701.16a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. &lt;strong&gt;Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1718" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2018-08-23T20:09:46.760" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33096" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33094" CreationDate="2016-11-20T20:04:32.867" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you can't do that, because Regeneration doesn't protect against a Sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for Sacrifice even explicitly assert as much:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;701.15a&lt;/strong&gt; To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. &lt;strong&gt;Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For clarity, &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Regenerate&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;Regenerate in an ability means&lt;/a&gt; &quot;The next time [permanent] would be destroyed this turn, instead remove all damage marked on it and tap it. If it’s an attacking or blocking creature, remove it from combat.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastActivityDate="2016-11-20T20:04:32.867" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33097" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33098" CreationDate="2016-11-20T21:43:53.757" Score="6" ViewCount="853" Body="&lt;p&gt;My question is twofold.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) Can I imprint &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=240207&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Death Wind&lt;/a&gt; with &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=413765&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Isochron Scepter&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) If I can, what is the maximum -X/-X I can give a creature by imprinting Death Wind and tapping Iscochron Scepter?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17966" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T10:31:27.177" Title="Can I use Deathwind with Isochron Scepter?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33098" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33097" CreationDate="2016-11-20T22:16:29.907" Score="12" Body="&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Yes, you can. When a spell is in your hand any {X} in its mana cost is interpreted as 0, so the card counts as having a CMC of 1.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;-0/-0&lt;/strong&gt;, sorry. This combo isn't very lethal. Isochron lets you cast a copy of that card without paying its mana cost (and that's the only circumstances under which you're allowed to cast it; you don't get to opt to pay mana for it), and in these circumstances, {X} is always given a value of zero. That requirement to pick 0 is reflected in a ruling on Isohron Scepter:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;6/8/2016&lt;/strong&gt;  If the exiled card has X in its mana cost, you must choose 0 as the value for X when casting it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;At least it'll trigger Heroic and kill &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPhantasmal%20Bear%5d&quot;&gt;Phantasmal Bear&lt;/a&gt;s.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T10:31:27.177" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T10:31:27.177" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33099" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20874" CreationDate="2016-11-21T00:43:54.480" Score="15" Body="&lt;h3&gt;Preface&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While the answer by the OP is a pretty good list of examples when priority matters, the question as posed is more about &quot;Stack vs Priority&quot;, as in, &quot;&lt;strong&gt;Do the rules need the priority system when it already has the Stack?&lt;/strong&gt;&quot;. A philosophical question warrants a philosophical answer. While such an answer is buried inside the comments, chat, and OP's answer, in my opinion it deserves its own answer.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Stack vs the priority system&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And this answer is: &lt;strong&gt;Yes, both the Stack and the priority system are important because they are solutions to different problems.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the Stack and for priority are so entwined with one another that it is difficult to tell them apart unless you look carefully at the rules. And carefully we shall look.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;The Stack&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I said the Stack and the priority system are solutions to different problems, so let's look at the problems that the Stack is trying to solve:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How do the rules handle players responding to spells and abilities? They must do that if spells and abilities that target other spells/abilities (e.g. counterspells) are to work properly. If players are to be able to respond to spells and abilities, they can neither resolve immediately nor go into a limbo when they are cast/activated/triggered.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In what order do the effects of different spells and abilities happen?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for the Stack&lt;sup&gt;[&lt;a href=&quot;http://yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R405&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;405&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/sup&gt; solve them by saying:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When spells and abilities are cast/activated/triggered, they are put on the Stack.&lt;sup&gt;[405.1]&lt;/sup&gt; The Stack is the holding area for spells and abilities waiting to resolve.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The Stack keeps track of the order in which objects are put there&lt;sup&gt;[405.2]&lt;/sup&gt;, and defines what happens if multiple objects are put there simultaneously&lt;sup&gt;[405.3]&lt;/sup&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The objects on the Stack resolve in reverse order they are put there (LIFO).&lt;sup&gt;[405.5]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, it is not difficult to see a gaping hole in this solution: it defines the order in which spells and abilities resolve &lt;em&gt;given the order they are added to the Stack&lt;/em&gt;, but says nothing about the latter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Moreover, there are actions that do not use the Stack &lt;sup&gt;[405.6]&lt;/sup&gt;. Naturally, the rules for the Stack do not govern them. So in what order do those happen? The previous paragraph is simply a special case of this since &lt;em&gt;the act of adding objects to the Stack itself does not (and cannot) use the Stack&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is where priority comes in.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Priority&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As we did with the Stack, let's begin with the problems:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When more than one player wants to be &lt;em&gt;proactive&lt;/em&gt; (they all want to act &lt;em&gt;first&lt;/em&gt;), who can act first?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;When all players want to be &lt;em&gt;reactive&lt;/em&gt; (they all want to act &lt;em&gt;last&lt;/em&gt;), who must act first?&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules for priority&lt;sup&gt;[&lt;a href=&quot;http://yawgatog.com/resources/magic-rules/#R116&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;116&lt;/a&gt;]&lt;/sup&gt; solve them by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Making so that, at any point in time, only at most one player can act.&lt;sup&gt;[116.1]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defining who that player is at any point in time.&lt;sup&gt;[116.3]&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Defining when spells and abilities resolve, and when steps and phases end&lt;sup&gt;[116.4]&lt;/sup&gt;, forcing players to act if they want to do so in response to a particular spell/ability or within a particular step/phase.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since only at most one player can perform actions that do not use the Stack at any point in time, the order in which those actions happen is well-defined. If multiple players want to do so, those actions happen in the same order as those players' chance to act. If a single player wants to do so multiple times, that player chooses which action to perform first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Examples&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now that we have differentiated the Stack rules and the priority rules, let's look at some examples.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Loyalty abilities&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AP's &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLiliana%2c%20the%20Last%20Hope%5d&quot;&gt;Liliana, the Last Hope&lt;/a&gt; just resolved, emptying the Stack. NAP has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt; in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The crux of this situation is that AP activating Lili's +1 puts a loyalty counter on Lili and puts it out of range of Bolt, but NAP casting Bolt prevents AP from activating Lili's +1. Since both actions do not use the Stack, and both players want to act first, the priority rules apply. AP can act first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Split Second&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is essentially the same problem: a player taking an action that does not use the Stack (casting a Split Second spell) restricts what non-Stack action (casting/activating other spells/abilities) other players can take, resulting in both players wanting to act first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Tap effect vs tap cost&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AP has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWellwisher%5d&quot;&gt;Wellwisher&lt;/a&gt;. NAP has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBallynock%20Trapper%5d&quot;&gt;Ballynock Trapper&lt;/a&gt; and wants to prevent AP from activating Wellwisher.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is more difficult to analyze, since tapping for Wellwisher's ability does not use the Stack and Ballynock Trapper tapping Wellwisher uses the Stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Long story short, if AP actively wants to activate Wellwisher's ability, he can do so before NAP activate Trapper. That's priority. On the other hand, if AP wants to activate Wellwisher's ability &lt;em&gt;only if NAP tries to prevent them from doing so using Trapper&lt;/em&gt;, then he can respond to Trapper's ability. That's the Stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Giant Growth vs Lightning Bolt&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;AP is attacking with a 1/1 with NAP at 2 life. NAP declares no blockers and it is currently in the Declare Blockers Step. Through previous events, both players know AP's only card in hand is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt; and NAP's only card in hand is &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLightning%20Bolt%5d&quot;&gt;Lightning Bolt&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, NAP has the advantage. If AP casts Growth, NAP can respond with Bolt to kill the 1/1. If AP does not cast Growth, NAP simply passes and take 1 combat damage from the 1/1.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, NAP's advantage &lt;strong&gt;does not come from their ability to respond&lt;/strong&gt; to AP's spell because that advantage is symmetric -- AP can also respond to NAP's spell. Rather, NAP's advantage stems from &lt;strong&gt;NAP's ability to make their decision based on the other player's decision and AP's inability to do so&lt;/strong&gt;. That, in turn, is due to AP receiving priority first in the Declare Blockers Step and thus having to make a decision first.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With that in mind, it does not even matter if NAP knows AP's hand. In NAP's perspective, as long as AP does not cast a pump spell, the reason why they do not is irrelevant. AP has decided to do nothing else and is bound to that decision if NAP decides the same. This is, again, by virtue of NAP receiving priority last.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To hit home the point, imagine if NAP is at 1 life instead of 2, then AP has the advantage instead. In this situation, if NAP passes, they die to combat damage. If NAP casts Lightning Bolt, AP can respond with Growth, saving the attacker. Here, &lt;strong&gt;AP's ability to respond prevails&lt;/strong&gt;. The tables are turned because now the NAP wants to be proactive rather than reactive. &lt;strong&gt;The NAP is forced to cast Bolt regardless of AP's decision and as a result loses the advantage&lt;/strong&gt;. On the other hand, &lt;strong&gt;AP now has the ability to make a decision based on NAP's decision&lt;/strong&gt; to cast Bolt. Thus, the AP, instead of the NAP, has the advantage here.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18955" LastEditorUserId="6692" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T15:46:02.417" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T15:46:02.417" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33102" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T06:12:08.713" Score="1" ViewCount="1333" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiffusion%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Diffusion Sliver&lt;/a&gt; out, are my Slivers protected from &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWrath%20of%20God%5d&quot;&gt;Wrath of God&lt;/a&gt;? What about &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChainer%27s%5d%2b%5bEdict%5d&quot;&gt;Chainer&amp;#39;s Edict&lt;/a&gt;?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18958" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T06:32:27.617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T10:51:15.260" Title="Does Diffusion Sliver protect from boardwipe spells and sacrifice spells?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2018-11-11T17:22:01.167" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33103" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33102" CreationDate="2016-11-21T08:10:57.787" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, the key word here is &quot;target&quot;. Your slivers get an ability that triggers whenevery a spell or ability gets cast/activated that contains the word &quot;target&quot;, e.g. Doom Blade. Any spells/abilities which do not &quot;target&quot; your slivers are uneffected by diffusion sliver, as here in your example edicts don't target your creatures but you and wrath doesn't target at all.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17561" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T08:10:57.787" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33104" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T08:51:04.923" Score="3" ViewCount="967" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a similar question, but a slightly different situation, so no duplicate: &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/19091/what-happens-if-i-have-two-pledges-of-loyalty-attached-to-a-creature&quot;&gt;What happens if I have two Pledges of Loyalty attached to a creature?&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now to my scenario:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say I have two &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGrizzly%20Bears%5d&quot;&gt;Grizzly Bears&lt;/a&gt; with one &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPledge%20of%20Loyalty%5d&quot;&gt;Pledge of Loyalty&lt;/a&gt; attached to each of them. Now my opponent casts e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBack%20to%20Nature%5d&quot;&gt;Back to Nature&lt;/a&gt;, killing both of my Pledges. I would like to keep my Bears protected, so I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSecond%20Sunrise%5d&quot;&gt;Second Sunrise&lt;/a&gt; during the end step. Note that no other cards were put into any graveyard this turn, so it would revive only the two Pledges. While it is on the stack, my opponent decides to bounce one of my Grizzly Bears with a blue instant of your choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, the Sunrise resolves, I have to put my Pledges back and since the remaining Grizzlies are the only creature, both have to enchant it as per rule 303.4f. Now, I would think that they would enter the battlefield simultaneously, so no Pledge will be there &quot;first&quot; and prevent the other from attaching.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is that correct so far?&#xA;What will happen afterwards? Will both Pledges be put into my graveyard again? Will one of them, or even both, survive?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="8488" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.177" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T12:23:43.327" Title="What happens with two Pledges of Loyalty attached to the same creature?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33105" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33102" CreationDate="2016-11-21T09:31:14.510" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;No, they are not protected&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDiffusion%20Sliver%5d&quot;&gt;Diffusion Sliver&lt;/a&gt;'s ability is only triggered when a Sliver becomes a 'target'. A creature is only targeted by spells or abilities that actually have the word 'target' on it. For instance, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;. From the &lt;a href=&quot;http://media.wizards.com/2016/docs/MagicCompRules_CN2_Update_20160826.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Comprehensive rules&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1a An instant or sorcery spell is targeted if its spell ability identifies something it will affect by using the phrase “target [something],”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(Note that rule 114 in its entirety describes 'targeting', this is just a specific excerpt for instants and sorceries.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The Sliver needs to be identified as that '&lt;em&gt;target [something]&lt;/em&gt;' in order for this specific ability to trigger. On instants and sorceries, this is spelled out; casting an Aura (ie &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUnholy%20Strength%5d&quot;&gt;Unholy Strength&lt;/a&gt;) on a Sliver also triggers the ability added to it by Diffusion Sliver, as they have an implicit target:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;114.1b Aura spells are always targeted. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Casting an equipment would not trigger the ability, as they enter play unattached and not targeting anything.  Their equip-ability however &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; count as becoming a target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To look a little closer at what spells do and do not target the Slivers:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTwiddle%5d&quot;&gt;Twiddle&lt;/a&gt; would target the Sliver and trigger this ability. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTurnabout%5d&quot;&gt;Turnabout&lt;/a&gt; wouldn't, because the card doesn't target a creature, it targets a player. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCall%20to%20Glory%5d&quot;&gt;Call to Glory&lt;/a&gt; would not target the Sliver, as it doesn't target anything.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T10:51:15.260" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T10:51:15.260" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33106" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33104" CreationDate="2016-11-21T10:24:09.133" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;For completeness' sake:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;303.4f. If an Aura is entering the battlefield under a player’s control by any means other than by resolving as an Aura spell, and the effect putting it onto the battlefield doesn’t specify the object or player the Aura will enchant, that player chooses what it will enchant as the Aura enters the battlefield. The player must choose a legal object or player according to the Aura’s enchant ability and any other applicable effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All cards returned by Second Sunrise are returned at the same time, so you can choose the Bears as the creature to attach them to for both Auras.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;Right after it resolves, you will have a Grizzly Bears enchanted with both Pledges, two instances of Protection from White (and Green) that each don't remove the Aura that grants it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now, State-Based Actions are checked - simultaneously for each card, as per the following rule:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.3. (...) the game checks for any of the listed conditions for state-based actions, then performs all applicable state-based actions simultaneously as a single event. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Since both Auras are illegal at this time, they will both be put in your graveyard as a State-Based Action, even though a single one of them could remain on the creature (which SBAs don't check for).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5n. If an Aura is attached to an illegal object or player (...), that Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-11-21T12:23:43.327" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T12:23:43.327" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33107" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33115" CreationDate="2016-11-21T15:40:40.370" Score="1" ViewCount="1107" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have opened the packet with &quot;come-back&quot; powers and assigned a new (blue) ability to one of the factions. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this ability now active for this faction all of the time, or only when the player has been knocked-out and re-joins the war? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Please restrict discussion to this packet, since players may not have openned the other packets.&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18962" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T22:35:37.743" Title="In Risk Legacy, when are the &quot;come-back&quot; powers active? (Spoilers)" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33108" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33061" CreationDate="2016-11-21T16:54:48.997" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There is at least one corner case that I know of where it is important. In certain legacy storm decks, it is really important that when you play your &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=107308&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Infernal Tutor&lt;/a&gt; you keep priority and crack your &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=383000&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lion's Eye Diamond&lt;/a&gt; in Response.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you don't do that your opponent can just pass priority and then the spell resolves which does not let you tutor for anything.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6676" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T16:54:48.997" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33109" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-21T17:49:27.917" Score="1" ViewCount="789" Body="&lt;p&gt;A question on which i think the Jury is still out - With a 5 card Major and 16 points - lets say 5-3-3-2 do I open 1 NT or bid 1 of the major.  And how do I show my partner a medium hand if I do open 1 Spade.  With a 5-4-2-2 I could bid 2 hearts as my 2nd bid but with a 4-5-2-2 I couldn't even do that as I would be reversing - which normally shows 17-18. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And if I bid 1NT then do I need to be playing Puppet Stayman? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Many thanks for your time and patience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17832" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T19:21:59.873" Title="STD. AMERICAN - 2 over 1, Bidding with a 5 card major and 16 points" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33110" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33109" CreationDate="2016-11-21T19:21:59.873" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is a matter of partnership agreement. In particular, it is reasonable either to &lt;em&gt;almost always&lt;/em&gt; or &lt;em&gt;almost never&lt;/em&gt; open &lt;code&gt;1NT&lt;/code&gt; with a 5-card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the &lt;em&gt;almost always&lt;/em&gt; camp, assuming a 15-17 NT opener, you should open any 5332 hand with a 5-card major and 15-16 HCP &lt;code&gt;1NT&lt;/code&gt; unless all of your points are in your major and one of the side suits. These bidders will also likely open &lt;code&gt;1NT&lt;/code&gt; with the appropriate point count and semibalanced shapes that are difficult to rebid (e.g. &lt;code&gt;2=4=5=2&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;2=4=2=5&lt;/code&gt;, but &lt;em&gt;not&lt;/em&gt; &lt;code&gt;4=2=5=2&lt;/code&gt; since you can raise or introduce spades without reversing). Puppet Stayman is not a necessity, but it is useful. Justin Lall has a &lt;a href=&quot;http://csbnews.org/puppet-stayman-after-a-1n-opener-by-justin-lall/?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;useful post about Puppet Stayman&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are in the &lt;em&gt;almost never&lt;/em&gt; camp, you should open those hands one of the major. The types of hands that would open &lt;code&gt;1NT&lt;/code&gt; with a 5-card major would be those that have positional stoppers or half-stoppers in 2 or 3 of the side suits (like &lt;code&gt;QTx&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Kx&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;Qx&lt;/code&gt;) along with a poor 5-card major.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The most important thing is to be on the same page as your partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to how to rebid after opening 1 of a major with a semibalanced or balanced 15-17, here's a guide:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a 4-card suit lower than the suit you opened, rebid that.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If your shape is &lt;code&gt;4=5=2=2&lt;/code&gt;, rebid 2C.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, rebid your longer minor at the two-level, preferring to bid a 3-card club suit before a 3-card diamond suit. However, be sure to discuss this with your partner -- you may find that you both prefer to rebid 2D with something like &lt;code&gt;xx AKJxx AKx xxx&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, if partner invites, you'll accept. If partner takes a simple preference to your first major, you will probably want to make a game try:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have 3-card support for partner's suit, bid it as cheaply as possible.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you have a truly excellent 5-card major (AKJTx or better) and values that look better for a suit contract than NT (fitting honors for partner's suit, side suits with either no honors or with quick tricks), you might make a try by rebidding 3 of your major.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Otherwise, &lt;code&gt;2NT&lt;/code&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="600" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T19:21:59.873" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33111" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33112" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:17:07.667" Score="1" ViewCount="625" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?name=raving%20dead&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Raving Dead&lt;/a&gt; deal damage before halving opponent's life i.e. is two damage subtracted first?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17966" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T21:42:08.457" Title="Does Raving Dead deal damage before halving opponent's life?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33112" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33111" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:21:17.543" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, Raving Dead deals combat damage, then the defending player loses half their life total. This is explicitly stated in one of the official rulings for the card:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The last ability triggers and resolves after combat damage has been dealt. For example, if an opponent has 17 life and Raving Dead deals 2 combat damage to him or her, he or she will end up at 8 life.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules section regarding the &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Combat_damage_step&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Combat Damage Step&lt;/a&gt; has the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Third, the active player gets priority. (See rule 116, “Timing and Priority.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.3a&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;Any abilities that triggered on damage being dealt or while state-based actions are performed afterward are put onto the stack before the active player gets priority&lt;/strong&gt;; the order in which they triggered doesn’t matter. (See rule 603, “Handling Triggered Abilities.”)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Raving Dead's ability says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Whenever Raving Dead deals combat damage to a player&lt;/strong&gt;, that player loses half his or her life, rounded down.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So the ability triggers in the third part of the combat damage step, after damage has been dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;hr /&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, trigger abilities always resolve after the event that caused them to trigger. The rules section regarding &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Triggered Abilities&lt;/a&gt; has the following rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger condition or event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Whenever a game event or game state matches a triggered ability’s trigger event, that ability automatically triggers. The ability doesn’t do anything at this point.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Once an ability has triggered, its controller puts it on the stack as an object that’s not a card the next time a player would receive priority. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So any triggered ability goes through the following process:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;First, the triggering event occurs.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Second, the ability triggers.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third, the ability gets put on the stack (when a player would receive priority).&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Last, the ability eventually resolves.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this particular case, the triggering event is &amp;quot;Raving Dead deals combat damage to a player&amp;quot; and the effect (which happens) on resolution is &amp;quot;that player loses half his or her life, rounded down&amp;quot;. Clearly, the triggering event must occur well before the ability's effect.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T21:42:08.457" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33113" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33111" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:24:37.360" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The damage will be dealt before their life total is halved because the trigger requires combat damage to have been dealt, if damage hasn't been dealt yet the trigger will not go off.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.1.&lt;/strong&gt; First, the active player announces how each attacking creature assigns its combat damage, then the defending player announces how each blocking creature assigns its combat damage. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. [...]&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.2.&lt;/strong&gt; Second, all combat damage that’s been assigned is dealt simultaneously. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack. No player has the chance to cast spells or activate abilities between the time combat damage is assigned and the time it’s dealt.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.3.&lt;/strong&gt; Third, the active player gets priority. (See rule 116, “Timing and Priority.”)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;510.3a&lt;/strong&gt; Any abilities that triggered on damage being dealt or while state-based actions are performed afterward are put onto the stack before the active player gets priority; the order in which they triggered doesn’t matter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T21:37:25.227" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33114" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8399" CreationDate="2016-11-21T21:52:10.850" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this situation is D, since it is a triggered ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, when multiple permanents enter the battlefield simultaneously, abilities behave as follows:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Replacement effects (&lt;code&gt;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield&lt;/code&gt;, &lt;code&gt;You may have [this permanent] enter the battlefield as...&lt;/code&gt;, and &lt;code&gt;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with&lt;/code&gt;) will look at the state of the battlefield before the group of permanents enters.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Triggered abilities (&lt;code&gt;When [a permanent with certain characteristics] enters the battlefield&lt;/code&gt;) will trigger for all eligible permanents in the group entering the battlefield.  This is true even if the ability is on one of the permanents that is entering the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Examples&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScapeshift%5d&quot;&gt;Scapeshift&lt;/a&gt; to find several copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bValakut%2c%20the%20Molten%20Pinnacle%5d&quot;&gt;Valakut, the Molten Pinnacle&lt;/a&gt;, some mountains, and several copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVesuva%5d&quot;&gt;Vesuva&lt;/a&gt;, you will have a group of lands entering the battlefield simultaneously.  Vesuva's ability is a replacement effect, and so can only copy lands on the battlefield before the group of lands enters (so if you sacrificed all of your lands to Scapeshift, Vesuva would only be able to copy an opponent's land).  Meanwhile, Valakut has a triggered ability.  All of the Valakut abilities will trigger for all of the mountains entering the battlefield.  If the Valakuts happen to be mountains as well, such as due to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPrismatic%20Omen%5d&quot;&gt;Prismatic Omen&lt;/a&gt;, they will trigger their own and each others abilities.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you use &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLiving%20Death%5d&quot;&gt;Living Death&lt;/a&gt;, any instances of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bClone%5d&quot;&gt;Clone&lt;/a&gt; that come back to life will have no valid copy targets and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCanker%20Abomination%5d&quot;&gt;Canker Abomination&lt;/a&gt; will be a 6/6, since both of these are replacement effects.  Meanwhile, &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGoldnight%20Commander%5d&quot;&gt;Goldnight Commander&lt;/a&gt; has a triggered ability, and so will give all of your creatures +1/+1 until end of turn for each creature besides himself that entered the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h3&gt;Rules Justification&lt;/h3&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behavior of the triggered abilities comes from the following core rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.6a&lt;/strong&gt; Enters-the-battlefield abilities trigger when a permanent enters the battlefield. These are written, &quot;When [this object] enters&#xA;  the battlefield, ...&quot; or &quot;Whenever a [type] enters the battlefield,&#xA;  ...&quot; &lt;strong&gt;Each time an event puts one or more permanents onto the&#xA;  battlefield, all permanents on the battlefield (including the&#xA;  newcomers) are checked for any enters-the-battlefield triggers that&#xA;  match the event&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.3b&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple abilities have triggered since the last time a player received priority, each player, in APNAP order, puts triggered&#xA;  abilities he or she controls on the stack in any order he or she&#xA;  chooses. (See rule 101.4.) Then the game once again checks for and&#xA;  resolves state-based actions until none are performed, then abilities&#xA;  that triggered during this process go on the stack. This process&#xA;  repeats until no new state-based actions are performed and no&#xA;  abilities trigger. Then the appropriate player gets priority.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The behavior of the replacement effects comes from the following core rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;608.2g&lt;/strong&gt; If an effect requires information from the game (such as the number of creatures on the battlefield), the answer is determined only&#xA;  once, when the effect is applied&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.1c&lt;/strong&gt; Effects that read &quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield with ... ,&quot; &quot;As [this permanent] enters the battlefield ... ,&quot; or&#xA;  &quot;[This permanent] enters the battlefield as ... &quot; are replacement&#xA;  effects.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.12.&lt;/strong&gt; Some replacement effects modify how a permanent enters the battlefield. (See rules 614.1c–d.) Such effects may come from the&#xA;  permanent itself if they affect only that permanent (as opposed to a&#xA;  general subset of permanents that includes it). They may also come&#xA;  from other sources. To determine which replacement effects apply and&#xA;  how they apply, check the characteristics of the permanent as it would&#xA;  exist on the battlefield, taking into account replacement effects that&#xA;  have already modified how it enters the battlefield (see rule 616.1),&#xA;  continuous effects generated by the resolution of spells or abilities&#xA;  that changed the permanent’s characteristics on the stack (see rule&#xA;  400.7a), and continuous effects from the permanent’s own static abilities, but ignoring continuous effects from any other source that&#xA;  would affect it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.12a&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;strong&gt;If a replacement effect that modifies how a permanent enters the battlefield requires a choice, that choice is made before the&#xA;  permanent enters the battlefield&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;614.4. Replacement effects must exist before the appropriate event occurs—they can’t “go back in time” and change something that’s&#xA;  already happened.&lt;/strong&gt; Spells or abilities that generate these effects are&#xA;  often cast or activated in response to whatever would produce the&#xA;  event and thus resolve before that event would occur.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;  &#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;101.4.&lt;/strong&gt; If multiple players would make choices and/or take actions at the same time, the active player (the player whose turn it is) makes&#xA;  any choices required, then the next player in turn order (usually the&#xA;  player seated to the active player’s left) makes any choices required,&#xA;  followed by the remaining nonactive players in turn order. Then the&#xA;  actions happen simultaneously. This rule is often referred to as the&#xA;  “Active Player, Nonactive Player (APNAP) order” rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Note:&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This question is currently the canonical question for how to handle multiple permanents entering the battlefield simultaneously.  This answer is intentionally more general than the question is looking for, in order to address the numerous variations of this question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9999" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T21:52:10.850" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33115" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33107" CreationDate="2016-11-21T22:35:37.743" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All powers listed on the faction cards are active and available at all times, so once a come-back power or other sticker has been added to a faction card they are affected by it from then on.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-11-21T22:35:37.743" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33116" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-22T02:12:23.567" Score="1" ViewCount="2012" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am new to the game sorry for the rookie question. Can abilities (both activated and triggered) target themselves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18965" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T02:49:14.940" Title="Can abilities target themselves?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="6" ClosedDate="2016-11-22T05:06:06.983" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33117" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33116" CreationDate="2016-11-22T02:13:33.607" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, abilities cannot target themselves. This is specified by &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Target&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rule 114.4&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A spell or ability on the stack is an illegal target for itself.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T02:13:33.607" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33118" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33116" CreationDate="2016-11-22T02:49:14.940" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;While murgatroid is correct, to answer a related question that you &lt;em&gt;might&lt;/em&gt; be trying to ask, if a permanent (creature, enchantment, land, etc) has some kind of ability, then the permanent &lt;em&gt;may&lt;/em&gt; be a legal target for its own ability. For example, Merror Levitator has the ability &quot;Tap: Target creature gains flying until end of turn&quot;, and Guardian of Solitude has &quot;Whenever you cast a Spirit or Arcane spell, target creature gains flying until end of turn.&quot; It's fine to tap Merror Levitator to give it flying, and similarly if you cast a Spirit or Arcane spell then Guardian of Solitude will happily do the same.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5356" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T02:49:14.940" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33119" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33131" CreationDate="2016-11-22T09:03:27.007" Score="2" ViewCount="251" Body="&lt;p&gt;As an amateur, I will probably make (numerous) mistakes, through ignorance or lack of technical knowledge. Experts, by definition, don't have this problem. Yet bridge books that I have read report that even an expert will likely make a mistake or two during a session of bridge.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why is that? Is it a fatigue/stamina issue after counting too many hands? Is it a matter of it being easier to &quot;know better&quot; after the fact? Is it because even experts can't calculate probabilities in real time in unfamiliar situations, so they choose a (slightly) inferior line of play?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And what about cures? I would guess that better physical conditioning might fix some stamina issues. And perhaps &quot;drilling,&quot; particularly in areas of known weakness might make it easier to come up with the right answers.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Have I identified the most serious causes and cures of expert mistakes, or are there some that I have missed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1344" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T03:32:51.073" Title="What are the causes (and cures) for bridge experts' mistakes?" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33120" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32013" CreationDate="2016-11-22T17:27:35.540" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no rules saying you can't give helpful points to less experienced players. As a matter of fact I consider it my duty to point out poor playing choices to others.  Even to my detriment.  My goal is for everyone to have fun, and for me that is having good competition.  Often I am the 'person in the lead' and if I just tromp the other players each time it certainly isn't any fun for them and for me it's like beating a 5 yo at chess.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now if all players are close in ability then the prompting should be pulled back, but still, we use it to help reign in the leader.  Generally we all do it to each other, and none of us 'expect' to just win.    I actually find it even more satisfying to win against a group that are trying to foil my plans.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Personally, unless there is something in the rules saying otherwise it seems to me to be a poor sport who can't handle a little competition.  Is it fun having a major plan foiled?  no. but it's part of the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course it can be taken too far.  I know someone (T) who played a game with a friend. The friend believed (T) was some mastermind on the game and played the entire game 'preventing' (T) from winning. He thought it was a great strategy. He didn't try to win, just stopped (T) from having any chance.  THAT is not fun, I would also refuse to play with that type of individual myself.  Even if I wasn't the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ultimately, most of the time I consider that kind of table talk/prompting to be mentoring players to become better at the games.  A teaching experience if you will.  If all 3 of the other players at the board want you to shut up, then do so.  However, anyone not willing to take advice deserves their fate.  I would also seriously consider avoiding play with player #2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10016" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T17:27:35.540" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33121" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33122" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:36:20.427" Score="3" ViewCount="156" Body="&lt;p&gt;We've just started to play the &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/104006/village&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Village&lt;/a&gt; board game recently with friends and we're not sure about this rule in Council chamber action:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may perform the privilege action which is shown below either the current or &lt;strong&gt;a previous stage&lt;/strong&gt; of you family member.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does &lt;strong&gt;a previous stage&lt;/strong&gt; mean only one previous stage or all previous stages? In example if I have a villager on the last stage with action &quot;exchange 1 coin to 3 points&quot;, can I also choose to take a starting player ring located on the first action?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6645" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T18:41:46.217" Title="Council chamber action in Village" Tags="|village|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33122" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33121" CreationDate="2016-11-22T18:41:46.217" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can choose any previous action. &quot;Previous&quot; just means &quot;something earlier&quot;, it doesn't imply &quot;exactly 1 space&quot;. The best evidence for this is the fact that it says &quot;&lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; previous space, not &quot;&lt;strong&gt;the&lt;/strong&gt;&quot; previous spot. So yes, you can choose start player using a guy at the top.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2602" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T18:41:46.217" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33123" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33124" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:31:40.927" Score="4" ViewCount="3368" Body="&lt;p&gt;How many players do you need for M:TG drafting? If you try drafting with too few players, what problems do you get? If you try drafting with too many players, what problems does that cause?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13484" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T20:53:43.223" Title="How many players do you need for M:TG drafting?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33124" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33123" CreationDate="2016-11-22T20:53:43.223" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;In order to be a sanctioned and rated Magic tournament you need at least 8 players, with no upper limit (though multiples of 8 are generally best). Players are then split into 'pods' based on the number of players attempting to get as close to 8 as possible, while having all pods be roughly equal size. (&lt;a href=&quot;http://wpn.wizards.com/sites/wpn/files/attachements/mtg_mtr_10nov16_en.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;MTR 7.6 and 10.1&lt;/a&gt;) In my experience pods of 6-10 work best.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For just casual drafting you can have as few as 2 players. However the fewer players you have the smaller the pool of cards your pod will have to draft with. This will mean you will have fewer cards for any given archetype so you are more likely to be fighting with your neighbors for the cards you need.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However even though there are fewer cards you will end up seeing a larger proportion of the cards available (for example with a 4 player pod you will see 42/48 [87.5%] cards whereas with 8 players you would see 84/112 [75%]). This would make it so that you have a better idea of what everyone else is playing and make signaling easier.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;With pods larger than 8 the problems are almost the opposite of pods smaller than 8. While you are less likely to be fighting with your neighbors for cards since there are more of them, you are also less able to plan ahead. With 8 players in a pod with your first pack you will get 6 of those cards back, an knowing which cards were taken can give you an idea of what other people are playing. If you had more than that you might only be getting 2 cards back, which tells you a lot less because almost all of the cards were gong to be picked anyway. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;While a standard draft may not work with a small number of players there are several &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/casual-formats-2008-08-11&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;draft variants&lt;/a&gt; that work well (and are even designed for) as few as 2 players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-11-22T20:53:43.223" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33126" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-22T23:47:32.757" Score="3" ViewCount="471" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say it's the start other player's combat phase, and I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAethersquall%20Ancient%5d&quot;&gt;Aethersquall Ancient&lt;/a&gt; out on the field, whose 2nd ability's cost is to spend 8 energy to bounce all other creatures besides it off the board. I have 5 energy. Could I cast &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHarnessed%20Lightning%5d&quot;&gt;Harnessed Lightning&lt;/a&gt;, an instant that gives 3 energy, and not spend any on its effect and instead spend the new total of 8 energy on the Ancient's ability before the blocking step?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18839" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-11-22T23:49:13.043" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T14:05:20.367" Title="Magic the Gathering: Chaining Instants during combat phase" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33128" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:46:09.380" Score="8" ViewCount="7314" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I were to attack with a 4/4 indestructible creature and it's blocked by a 4/2 creature with first strike, would my indestructible creature still attack during the second combat damage step, or would it just tap, not assigning any damage?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18972" LastEditorUserId="27268" LastEditDate="2020-01-31T06:39:11.337" LastActivityDate="2020-01-31T06:39:11.337" Title="After lethal first strike damage to an indestructible creature, will it still do damage?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-indestructible|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 4.0" />
  <row Id="33129" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33128" CreationDate="2016-11-23T00:55:23.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;Your indestructible creature would deal damage during the second damage step. At that point in time, it has 4 marked damage, but since it is indestructible, it is not, well, destroyed.  So, the 4/2 in your scenario would die. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T00:55:23.520" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33130" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33126" CreationDate="2016-11-23T02:46:21.287" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you Can't.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Aethersqual Ancient's second ability has a limiting condition, specifically:   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Activate this ability only any time you can cast a sorcery.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To the best of my recollection, there is not a card in magic the gathering that will allow you to activate the ability. Refer to &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bVedalken%20Orrery%5d&quot;&gt;Vedalken Orrery&lt;/a&gt; on oracle for clarification, explaining why it doesn't work. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This applies only to casting spells. It does not, for example, change when you may activate abilities that can only be activated “any time you could cast a sorcery”.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Editorial: This is one of the occasions where the plain text on the card isn't sufficient. There are several cards that let you play a sorcery as though it had flash, yet it takes going to their oracle pages to find the above. Intuitively, if there is an effect that allows me to play a sorcery as if it had flash, and this ability is limited to only being activated if I can play a sorcery, than I should be able to activate the ability.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can cast Harnessed Lightning, and choose not to use any Energy, adding to your energy pool for eight total. However, when you go to activate the ability during the end of the Declare Attacakers step of your opponents turn, you will be trying to take an illegal action. Your opponent should stop you from doing so.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14175" LastEditorUserId="14175" LastEditDate="2016-11-23T14:05:20.367" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T14:05:20.367" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33131" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33119" CreationDate="2016-11-23T03:32:51.073" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;First, let's be clear on terms - no world class player makes the mistakes that you or I make: such as failing to count the hand or forgetting last week's amendment to our bidding system. The &lt;em&gt;mistakes&lt;/em&gt; they make are far more subtle, and would be regarded as merely &lt;em&gt;second-best&lt;/em&gt; actions by you or I, if we were even capable of analyzing the &lt;em&gt;best action&lt;/em&gt;. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The bidding mistakes by experts are of forgetting a conversation multiple years earlier about the particular situation that has again come up, for only the second time in our long partnership. They are failing to draw the sub-sub-sub inference from the failure of an opponent to act in the bidding. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, ultimately the source of all errors is human imperfection - and as we all are imperfect in different ways, the errors of world class bridge players arise from different imperfections. Barry Crane was infamous for refusing to allow many of his partners to eat between sessions, lest an overfull stomach interfere with clear thought in the first rounds afterwards; yet others of his partners regularly enjoyed between-session dinners as his partner.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Eddie Kantar's &lt;a href=&quot;http://csbnews.org/a-king-a-shock-a-world-title-by-phillip-alder/?lang=en&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;mis-defence on board 92 of the 96 board final in the 1975 Bermuda Bowl&lt;/a&gt; is an example of such unique human imperfection: failing to false card the CK from KT doubleton as West, when dummy comes down in the North with CAQ. You or I would likely never even note that the falsecard will induce a strong declarer to go down, or only long after the session with pen and paper in hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T03:32:51.073" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33132" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33128" CreationDate="2016-11-23T07:44:27.287" Score="23" Body="&lt;p&gt;Indestructible, as with most abilities, doesn't modify how combat works - it only does this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.12b. A permanent with indestructible can’t be destroyed. Such permanents aren’t destroyed by lethal damage, and they ignore the state-based action that checks for lethal damage (...).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The respective state-based action that 702.12b renders unaffecting:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;704.5g. If a creature has toughness greater than 0, and the total damage marked on it is greater than or equal to its toughness, that creature has been dealt lethal damage and is destroyed. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This results in the following chain of events:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the first combat damage step, the 4/2 will deal 4 damage to the indestructible 4/4 creature.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;State-Based Actions are checked, but even though the creature has lethal damage marked on it, it won't be put into the graveyard and therefore not removed from combat.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In the second combat damage step, the 4/4 will deal 4 damage to the 4/2.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;State-Based Actions are checked, see lethal damage marked on the 4/2, and put into the graveyard.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T07:44:27.287" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33133" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-23T16:17:59.730" Score="8" ViewCount="10011" Body="&lt;p&gt;Inspired by some comments on &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/9213/1500&quot;&gt;this question&lt;/a&gt; where someone might play two sorceries at the same time, a different question arose. Namely, if someone is to reveal cards from their hand (without an obvious reason like &quot;reveal a card at random from your hand&quot;) does this count as casting? Or more accurately, does it count as proposing as laid out in rule 601.2a which is the first step in casting?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm unable to find any clarity on the matter, though that may be more to do with a restrictive internet filter I'm behind at the moment than the lack of availability of an answer out there on the Internet.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1500" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:49.990" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T18:28:31.993" Title="Is voluntarily revealing a card from your hand considered proposing?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33134" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33133" CreationDate="2016-11-23T16:25:42.090" Score="11" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can reveal your hand and cards at will. It doesn't count as casting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;3.12 Hidden Information&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Hidden information refers to the faces of cards and other objects at which the rules of the game and format do not allow you to look.&#xA;Throughout the match, a draft, and pregame procedures, players are responsible for keeping their cards above the level of the playing surface and for making reasonable efforts to prevent hidden information from being revealed. &lt;strong&gt;However, players may choose to reveal their hands or any other hidden information available only to them&lt;/strong&gt;, unless specifically prohibited by the rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T16:25:42.090" CommentCount="6" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33135" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33133" CreationDate="2016-11-23T16:31:12.160" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Revealing a card from your hand without any card/effect asking you to do so is not illegal by the rules.&#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;http://blogs.magicjudges.org/rules/mtr3-12/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here's what the Magic Tournament Rules says about it.&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Two important points are being described :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Players are responsible for keeping hidden information from being revealed&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;Players may choose to reveal their hands&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, as long as information is hidden to your opponent, but not to you, it is not illegal to give it away.&#xA;It happens in big events, where players will sometimes show a game-winning card from their hand to convince an opponent to concede and save some time.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unless specifically stated, revealing a card from your hand will never be &amp;quot;automatically&amp;quot; considered as casting it, using it as a cost for an ability or anything else.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18667" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T16:31:12.160" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33136" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33138" CreationDate="2016-11-23T17:13:51.397" Score="0" ViewCount="707" Body="&lt;p&gt;What are the dice modifiers for bunkers in Risk Legacy? Can you give some examples of dice rolls and how they are modified by the presence of a bunker? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18962" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T19:12:37.223" Title="How do bunkers work in Risk Legacy?" Tags="|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33137" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33133" CreationDate="2016-11-23T18:28:31.993" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;As stated correctly by the other answers, it's perfectly legal to reveal cards from your hand to your opponents at any time. As the question seems to be more about possible situations where such action may be misinterpreted, let's delve deeper into that question.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Basically, whenever you reveal cards from your hand for a clearly social reason (such as suggesting you have a sure way to win, or bragging about a top-deck draw), you should be fine, as you're likely to accompany this by some kind of commentary or body language. It gets more complicated when you're expected to do something, such as cast a spell or reveal a card, and you choose to reveal any unrelated card instead of doing that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As an extreme example to illustrate the concept, let's say you just entered your main phase, tapped an exhaustive amount of mana, then reveal &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bAll%20Is%20Dust%5d&quot;&gt;All Is Dust&lt;/a&gt; (or another card that requires no further interaction, such as choosing targets) without commenting it. An opponent then responds with tapping two Islands and casts &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCounterspell%5d&quot;&gt;Counterspell&lt;/a&gt;. Surely, you will have a hard time explaining to that player that you really just meant to show them the card and weren't actually casting it, and I'm sure in a tournament scenario, you wouldn't get away with it, no matter how much the rules cover your action.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Something more encounterable would be &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bKeranos%2c%20God%20of%20Storms%5d&quot;&gt;Keranos, God of Storms&lt;/a&gt; and players misinterpret revealing the card because of Keranos's ability is actually casting that card (which makes sense, considering players rarely do something in their draw step after drawing a card for the turn), causing them to act as if the spell would've been cast and just resolved. This might happen because they're distracted, Keranos's controller not being clear enough, or a combination of the two. It mostly won't be a problem, but might sometimes result in them revealing choices they'd make, which obviously gives the Keranos player a great advantage not only because they now have better information regarding that spell specifically, but also where to direct the 3 damage Keranos deals.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As with many things in MTG, rules alone only define what's allowed, but you will have to make an effort to communicate your actions in an &#xA;ambiguous or interpretable situation. These examples cover extreme cases that probably won't appear in any tournament scenario - which isn't by chance, but because players usually have a good sense of when their actions might be confusing others.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T18:28:31.993" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33138" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33136" CreationDate="2016-11-23T19:12:37.223" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;A bunker adds 1 to the highest defender's die as long as it is less than 6. For example, a defender's roll of 4+3 becomes 5+3; 5+5 becomes 6+5, 6+1 stays 6+1, and 2 becomes 3 (the case where you're only rolling one die).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Note that this roughly flips the normal attacker's advantage - ordinarily, as long as both sides are rolling max dice, the attacker loses 0.9 units and the defender loses 1.1 on average, but with a bunker it's 1.1 and 0.9 the other way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastActivityDate="2016-11-23T19:12:37.223" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33139" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="20957" CreationDate="2016-11-23T21:24:42.340" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here are some house rules that can solve this problem:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To build a tower, you have to skip your turn altogether and not even&#xA;draw a tile.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Towers cannot reach higher than a certain height.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Add an extra meeple.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;These are just my ideas and they are not found in any rule book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18980" LastEditorUserId="15610" LastEditDate="2017-02-24T15:49:42.303" LastActivityDate="2017-02-24T15:49:42.303" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33140" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33142" CreationDate="2016-11-24T01:06:35.790" Score="0" ViewCount="747" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have a question about &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=414317&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Fiend Binder's&lt;/a&gt; triggered ability regarding the stack. I just want to make sure I'm understanding it correctly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It states:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Whenever Fiend Binder attacks, tap target creature defending player controls.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It triggers whenever she attacks, but it also says to tap defending player's creature. At first glance I interpret this as when I attack with her I can just tap away any creature I want, but I a have suspicion this is wrong and it only qualifies when the player defends, which would result in what? Me tapping any other creature that is not defending?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm certain my question is straight forward, but just to make sure I understand let me run a scenario: If I control just Fiend Binder, and my opponent happens to just only control one creature also, am I permitted to tap my opponent's creature leaving him or her open for damage, or would nothing happen in this case as there is no other creature to tap?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Appreciate any clarification, I couldn't seem to really find straight forward answer as I've only been playing magic for almost a year and reading from the rule book is sometimes cryptic to me.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18072" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T03:30:04.403" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T07:23:57.670" Title="Fiend Binder's triggered ability" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-stack|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33141" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33140" CreationDate="2016-11-24T01:13:04.670" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;You would get to tap the only creature defending player controls before they can block.  When you actually declare attacks, what happens is that the Fiend Binder becomes tapped and is attacking a specific player.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;That player is the defending player, so at that point the ability goes on the stack and you can tap one of their creatures. Defending player is defined before the defender blocks.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.4. If an ability of an attacking creature refers to a defending player, or a spell or ability refers to both an attacking creature and a defending player, then unless otherwise specified, the defending player it's referring to is the player that creature was attacking at the time it became an attacking creature that combat, or the controller of the planeswalker that creature was attacking at the time it became an attacking creature that combat.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a multiplayer game, even though all opponents are generally considered defending players, the ability can only target a creature that the player this specific creature had attacked controls:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;508.4a. In a multiplayer game, any rule, object, or effect that refers to a &quot;defending player&quot; refers to one specific defending player, not to all of the defending players. (...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T07:23:57.670" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T07:23:57.670" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33142" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33140" CreationDate="2016-11-24T01:16:48.507" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Quoth the rules:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.2. During the combat phase, the active player is the attacking player; creatures that player controls may attack. During the combat phase of a two-player game, the nonactive player is the defending player; that player and planeswalkers he or she controls may be attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Multiplayer games are covered by subsequent rules, but the effect either way is that, by the time you're declaring attackers, one or more of your opponents have become defending players. Thus, when Fiend Binder attacks, you tap a creature controlled by the defending player, who is one of your opponents (specifically, by rule 508.3, the player that the Fiend Binder is attacking). Recall that Fiend Binder's ability triggers only when it attacks, and thus when you are the active/attacking player, and thus when one or more of your opponents is the defending player.  In the example situation you've given, you must tap your opponent's creature (unless of course it's untargetable, in which case nothing happens).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1855" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T02:04:33.190" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T02:04:33.190" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33143" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33146" CreationDate="2016-11-24T05:54:57.677" Score="1" ViewCount="1117" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Ultimate Werewolf the Mason cards are a bit abstract on what happens when someone references them. So I would just like to clarify, what happens when more than one person references them. Do they all die? Or do the Masons choose them one by one each night? Also, if there are 2 Masons playing and one Mason references them. Does that Mason die? Or can Masons never die from referencing them. Anyone able to clear this up a bit would be much appreciated. Thanks. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18983" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T13:47:44.820" Title="What happens when someone references the Masons. Ultimate Werewolf" Tags="|werewolf|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33144" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-24T12:09:12.187" Score="2" ViewCount="1026" Body="&lt;p&gt;I love drafting, but most of my experience with it is watching MTGO videos or playing on MTGO myself. There you can see your picks during the whole drafting part, sort your cards several ways, and even sideboarding the worst cards as the draft goes on, ending with a deck almost ready.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Where I draft IRL, we are only allowed to look back at our picks between boosters, and not during a very long time (casual, but still). Can I maybe separate my picks in (face-down) piles, so that I can at least see how many colors/creatures/whatever I have (possibly going to the extreme, with piles for each color/card type/cost) ? I have limited memory and have a hard time figuring if I should prioritize medium 2-drops, because of curve reasons and I already have too many removals anyway, etc, all of which would not be a problem if I could look at my cards.&#xA;Things I've considered focusing on remembering (all at once is out of the question) :&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many creatures/non-creatures&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many in each color&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many 1-2, 3-4 and 5-6 drops&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;How many removals/spells that do nothing if I don't have a creature on the battlefield&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What should I focus on ? Is there a better way to draft IRL compared to MTGO ?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18985" LastActivityDate="2017-12-30T15:47:47.657" Title="Drafting without being able to look at your picks?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-drafting|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33145" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33144" CreationDate="2016-11-24T12:26:49.360" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Competitive rules does not allow players to look at their previous picks during or between picks, only between rounds (between each boosters).&#xA;You are also not allowed to reorganize your picks until the end of the draft.&#xA;These rules prevents cheating and/or player mistakes while drafting.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In a non-professional environment, these rules are optional, so be sure to check with your LGS which one are enforced.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for what to focus on remembering, the best answer would be &quot;everything&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Curve, removals, the pace of the game, and color synergies are all very dependent on the current format.&#xA;You can find format-specific breakdown and strategies guides on the internets, but the best way to improve in real life drafting is experience.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my experience, if you were to choose one thing to track, it would be your creature/non creature spells ratio, as it is a very important part of deck building in limited, regardless of the current format.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18667" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T12:26:49.360" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33146" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33143" CreationDate="2016-11-24T13:38:01.403" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let me start out by saying I generally don't like rules that restricts what players can discuss. I find that it makes for interesting gameplay to let people discuss freely about what roles exist in the game. - which is why I never play with this &quot;Don't mention the Masons&quot; rule.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That being said, I find that there are 2 reasons behind this restriction:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. Thematic&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The masons are a secret society. The masons themselves are not allowed to acknowledge its existance, and the rest of the village simply don't know about it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. Balance&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;The Masons may seem somewhat overpowered because they can just tell everyone who they are, and nobody but the evil team has any reason to contest their claim - which allows you to quickly narrow down who's the werewolf.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To answer your question:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, if a mason mentions the masons, they die. If not you could just start the game by yelling &quot;MASON!&quot;, and the fact that you didn't die that night would be evidence of your role.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;No, the masons don't get to pick and choose who dies. They only wake up the first night to learn each others' identity.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, technically, if everyone talks about the Masons, everyone dies. That'll teach them. After the first massacre people probably won't do it again in future games...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;To be honest, the death punishment shouldn't even be needed in my opinion. If the rule is not to talk about the masons, don't talk about the f'ing masons! Just like you're not allowed to look at each others' cards or peak during night time. Obey the rules, or don't play the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10208" LastEditorUserId="10208" LastEditDate="2016-11-24T13:47:44.820" LastActivityDate="2016-11-24T13:47:44.820" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33147" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-25T00:54:19.343" Score="1" ViewCount="2890" Body="&lt;p&gt;I'm confused about how oxen work in this game. For example, the calamity card for Bad Water states that if I get 2 bad water cards in a round, then my oxen die. Is the number of oxen I have based on the number of oxen supply cards the team has, or do I have a specific number of oxen innately that can be replaced with oxen supply cards?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18993" LastActivityDate="2018-01-08T19:53:48.987" Title="Oregon Trail Card Game Oxen" Tags="|the-oregon-trail-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33148" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="12516" CreationDate="2016-11-25T02:40:53.807" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Up to three fighters/tactical bombers can be scrambled into each sea zone adjacent to a territory that contains a functional airbase.  Any aircraft that are used in this way cannot be used for any further combat operations for the remainder of the round.  You may select units to be scrambled after the attacking player has finished all of his combat moves and you may do so any time the appropriate sea zone in attacked by either air or sea units and that included defending the territory against amphibious assaults. &#xA;An example is sea zone 109 and 110 are adjacent to United Kingdom territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18994" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T02:40:53.807" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33150" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33151" CreationDate="2016-11-25T03:18:52.820" Score="3" ViewCount="711" Body="&lt;p&gt;A runner has &quot;Bank Job&quot; ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01029&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01029&lt;/a&gt; ). Can he (or she) make a run on a remote server without any installments (ice, asset, upgrades, agenda)? In other words, can a runner just spend one click to take all the credits from bank job? Reference on the rules will be great!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18439" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T04:17:26.353" Title="Can a runner make a run on an &quot;empty&quot; remote server?" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33151" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33150" CreationDate="2016-11-25T03:41:22.520" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, remotes only exist if there is a card installed either inside of them (asset/upgrade/agenda) or in front of them (ICE). This differs from the central servers, which always exist even if there is nothing in or protecting them (e.g., archives).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is discussed on page 4 of the official FAQ, under &quot;Destruction of Servers&quot; (emphasis mine):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If there are no cards installed in or protecting a remote server, then&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;the server immediately ceases to exist&lt;/strong&gt;. If a server ceases to exist&#xA;  during a run, the run immediately ends. Unless the run has passed step&#xA;  4.4 of the timing structure of a run, it is not considered to be successful or unsuccessful.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T04:17:26.353" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T04:17:26.353" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33152" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-25T04:21:15.937" Score="3" ViewCount="204" Body="&lt;p&gt;I saw this game at a friend's place but nobody knew what it was called. Google search and reverse image search didn't help.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOhgH.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/eOhgHm.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;enter image description here&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is a hexagonal board with:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 white marbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;10 dark marbles&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;37 notches to put them in&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18997" LastEditorUserId="409" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T05:51:35.243" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T05:51:35.243" Title="What is this hexagonal board game with 10 marbles to a side?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="0" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-11-25T19:29:01.227" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33153" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-25T14:22:36.333" Score="1" ViewCount="3217" Body="&lt;p&gt;I was playing settlers of Catan with the following players. Note all names are fictitious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Donny - Me&#xA;Ned - My brother&#xA;Bob - Ned's best friend&#xA;Steve - Donny and Ned's dad&#xA;CK - two inexperienced players on one team (sister and Ned's girlfriend)&#xA;Corey - Donnys wife&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So I was the first to build something of value when I built a city on a 5. After that point that 5 became a target that would get targeted for most of the game. In the beginning it would switch from that 5 which had me and another player on it (hurt me more) and a 9 which just had me on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In about 4 turns I had lost around 6 cards to monopoly and people putting robber on me. All good so far with that. Then other people started to build and I stayed stagnant as I was everyone's target. After everyone else started building out roads and settlements the robber still stayed on me for a good 7 or 8 turns (either no one cares bc it wasn't on them or didn't have anything to move it). &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I noticed Ned was starting to look very strong because he was getting ahead as he had maybe 5 VP and second place had 3.. and I was in at least third but yet the robber still on me. Then people started moving the robber to a space Ned was on AND someone else even though he had two settlements on a 9 and was clearly ahead in first place. They would put it on a 5 or 6 to target him but on each of those resources he only had 1 settlement whereas I had two and Corey had two. Also when they would put it on a spot to &quot;target&quot; Ned they would still take from me or Corey. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So throughout the game I was trying to tell people hey maybe we should put it on a spot that targets more than one resource of Ned's and not put it on a spot that hurts me or Corey more.  For some reason Bob kept defending Ned stating why not target more than one person even when Ned is clearly winning. He used the example in the last x amount of turns they lost 9 resources. My argument was yes BUT 3 of those were Neds (brick during middle to end game that he didn't need as he only had one city built) and 6 were from Corey who had no chance of winning (blocked in had nowhere to really build). I was saying he would lose more resources and it would hurt him more if they put it on a different spot that only target him with two settlemts on it. Bob still defended that point in favor for Ned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It got to a point where Ned had two knights played, 7 VP and even started working on Longest road and rest of us not even close yet the robber was on a space that targeted me or Corey more than Ned. Also the space it was on for a while was a 9 which was a brick resource. We were already mid to end game so brick is not as important as say wheat, which was also on a 9 and he had two resources on it. There was also a 6 Sheep Ned was on and he had two for one sheep. For example, when a 9 was rolled he would lose out on one brick but would still gain 3 other cards while Corey would get nothing. So obviously hurting Corey more than Ned even though Ned is crushing us at this point. The overall point I kept trying to make is why are we not targeting his sheep factory or his wheat 9 as opposed to only hurting him by one resource and two resources to the other player. He was literally crushing us, had a bunch of cards and people were still doing one for one trades as well with him. In any game I have played, they have stopped trading with me at 8 VP but this was apparently different somehow. (I have played with Ned and Bob multiple times in the past)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So pretty much drama ensued as I tried to tell people Ned is crushing us, we should probably start targeting him more. What was weird is Bob was defending Ned about everything I said and just saying I was bitter or whatever else trying to get in my head. It got to a point where I felt that Ned and mainly Bob were just pushing my buttons wanting me to explode. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also the entire game when someone was trying to make a deal with player B and a third player would come in and say done I'll do it, they would accept that deal. I went in and did that trying to get a deal with Bob but he still waited for dad to think and make the deal and made the excuse that he was talking with him even though precedent showed that worked for everyone else before then. I would then make an angry comment about it that which would then lead to more arguing etc. There was even a point where a 7 was rolled and Bob would say to put it on a certain spot that didn't target Ned just because it would be funny how pissed I would be. It got to the point where I'm calling people (yelling) idiots for not seeing that Ned was crushing us and you can put robber there if you are an idiot. Ned even said you're right I'm going to win there is nothing you can do, it's inpossible to hurt me. He would say that yet we were still only hurting him by one resource. What sucks is Ned and Bob were more passive aggressive where I was more outright agressive and loud. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In the end Ned did indeed win the game in dominating fashion which I was calling for all along. I ended up looking crazy because I was the loudest even though I felt I was being instigated by Ned and mainly Bob the entire game. My wife then vowed to never play again. (Which she has vowed before)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also Bob did a future trade with someone else which is something we have never ever done before. And Bob had never been up Ned's butt so much before. I don't get why he was being so defensive when I'm just trying to not have Ned win yet no one else seemed to understand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Was I right to be trying to convince players to target Ned more than they were or was I overreacting? Was I right for getting so annoyed at the way people were playing?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What may have been a better way to get people to target the first place person? What strategies have you used, especially while being very angry or picked on. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19000" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T15:15:26.603" Title="Settlers of Catan ended in argument, your thoughts?" Tags="|catan|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="3" ClosedDate="2016-11-27T15:01:04.817" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33154" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33153" CreationDate="2016-11-25T15:00:52.127" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Vou have several question regarding this event:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Was I right to be trying to convince players to target Ned more than they were or was I overreacting?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Part of the game is psychology and diplomacy. You are right that you tried to convince people to hit on the leader. But you probably hammered it too much so people got irritated and ignored your advice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Was I right for getting so annoyed at the way people were playing?&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Games are supposed to be fun. So if you are getting annoyed, it is maybe time to get a time out. If you keep playing while annoyed, other players can get annoyed too and this can ruin the game. Or the other people can ignore you completely and continue the game (probably supporting the leader so the game is ready as soon as possible).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What may have been a better way to get people to target the first place person?&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So next time. If you sense someone in the lead, notify the rest of the players once (maybe twice). If they don't respond, fine. It is still a game. Loosing it isn't the end of the world.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;What strategies have you used, especially while being very angry or picked on.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If I am annoyed with a game. I get a time out or even quit the game. I never enter the anger stage. I play games with friends and I value friendship higher than winning the game. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you are annoyed with how the game is played, first calm down and next talk to the other players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="45" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-11-25T15:09:53.817" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T15:09:53.817" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33155" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33153" CreationDate="2016-11-25T15:15:26.603" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;First of all, all subjective factors you described aside, the way I read it it comes down to this some players not treating their opponents equally, up to the point where you could interpret it as teaming up against someone, or teaming up around someone. Whatever the reasons may be, this escalated even more due to the fact that you voiced the concern.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I want to preface the following with everything I'm saying is a guess, not being able to know the exact situation, so I tried to phrase it as general as I could.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Assessing the situation&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Most multiplayer games have the problem that once some parties join forces, their opponent(s) will be at a diadvantage if they don't take similar efforts.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Settlers of Catan has more randomness involved than other strategy games, so that potentially multiplies that problem further. You're also describing situations where a player doesn't only try to inhibit the most advanced player, but also a less progressed person, which is a rational strategical choice that's very likely to subjectively annoy the unfortunate player happening to have an important structure next to the leading player. Keep in mind that the robber's mechanic is in itself designed to keep your opponents in check while making them hostile towards you.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Placing the blame&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't think you're the bad guy, and I also don't think the other players were. Most likely, you have a playgroup with clashing interests.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Players have different objectives, and while you might be convinced that keeping the strongest player in check might be the right solution, another player may think that targetting a specific player strongly at any point would be unfair and just tried distributing things equally. Some aren't even all that competitive and might just play for fun and therefore putting less focus on winning - depending on the mindset of these players, they might think that pulling someone's strings would be more fun than playing the game strategically. If you take in more outside factors, maybe players remembered you always did well or even won in previous games, and therefore decided to work against you to have a chance of their own, enjoying the success of their strategy a little too much.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Resolving the issue&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Whatever the reason everyone had to act the way they did may be, insults and angry reactions won't help diffuse the situation. Friendlyness doesn't help in all compositions of play groups, but you certainly won't convince anyone playing the game more fair the next time by calling them an idiot.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If a playgroup doesn't function well for everyone by default, talking to players about your problems is usually the best way. As with most types of conversation, you're considerably increasing the chances of others listening to you if you maintain an open and friendly attitude.&lt;br /&gt;&#xA;That said, not all players are open to suggestions, partly because everyone likes to play the way they do, and adjusting to someone else's idea isn't everyone's first choice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T15:15:26.603" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33156" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="8663" CreationDate="2016-11-25T18:47:19.433" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;The answer to this question is terribly subjective. I will add my conclusion regardless of that and how long this question has been lingering:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;I do not think that rpgs of this type are generally weighted agaisnt heroes. Far from truth actually. When I design a challenge for heroes the rule is: there must be a pressing mechanic towards them.&#xA;Otherwise they may lay around doing unnecessary things (let's go talk to that bartender again) and even have pleasant evening cracking jokes, but with no progress in story.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;That's why I think some people believe the heroes are naturally at disadvantage.   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;To truly determine cases where there's a bias in balance you need many simulations, many stats. Table top rpgs will never have that, because.. why? run simulation for all combinations of 20  heroes available? monsters, and in D&amp;amp;D and the like, spells and etc? That's not fun&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;Descent favors the heroes.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Yes, this is what I concluded.  In my group I am the OL and the only one who played this (imperial assault actually) before, but only a couple of hours.  The heroes are very strong, snowballing killing machines. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;First: This game is open to too many ambiguous and simply undocumented situations thus everyone who plays this will be breaking rules all the time, simply playing bad.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Why I think the balance tilts towards the heroes: they are 3 and I am one. Whenever any of the above situations happens the conflict will naturally be resolved in favor of the heroes, or else the playing experience is too negative.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Similarly, the frustration of the OL doesnt compare to the frustration of the players.  When I played Imperial Assault, 2 of the 4 heroes (interestingly, 2 very bad tactical players) abandoned the sessions complaning constatly about balance. Me as one of the heroes didnt let the constat loosing ruin the fun, but some people just cant have fun under that condition. It's just how human behavior is. Specially on males &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So all in all, the OL has more of an incentive of letting the heroes have it than vice-versa.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The second aspect that drives this game heavily against the OL: Punishing &quot;errors&quot;.  When I started the campaign I just had a quick look at the OL cards and monsters and made quick decisions spending XP. Also I misread one monster ability in two scenarios and lost potential wins because of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;We also did not read the FAQ at the start and the heroes ended with a too powerful necromancer&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have to prepare the scenario, monsters and cards, then optimize my deck.. then draw (randomness) and decide based on those plays...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The heroes have to decide between 4-6 cards, and collectively about equipment.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So what does this mean? as OL you &lt;strong&gt;CAN&lt;/strong&gt; tilt the balance towards you because you have more flexibility.  But can I? Do I care to read everything before playing and optimize situations?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Remember that you may be reading comments from hardcore players who devote 40 hours a week to gaming.  This is not the case for the majority of Descent players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You cannot assume the OL  will optimize his 30+ choices , but you can assume the heroes will optimize their 4-6 choices.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Accentuate this to the fact that errors committed at the start of the campaign -where you are more likely to do them at your first,and potentially only run - snowball terribly.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Descent is considerably tilted towards the hero. If you are a new player/group, I can guarantee you this will be the case&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3565" LastActivityDate="2016-11-25T18:47:19.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33157" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33059" CreationDate="2016-11-26T01:04:40.280" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Assuming the pummeler starts as a 1/1, this is how it'd go down... &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STACK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrostatic Pummeler is here&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper targeting the pummeler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EP ability targeting self&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EP ability targeting self&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower targeting pummeler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pummeler again targeting self&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Now things start to resolve. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STACK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrostatic Pummeler is here &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EP ability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EP ability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Dynavolt Tower&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RESOLVES&lt;/strong&gt; Pummeler is a 2/2&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;STACK&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Electrostatic Pummeler is here. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Fiery Temper&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EP ability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;EP ability &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;strong&gt;RESOLVES&lt;/strong&gt; Dynavolt Tower deals three damage, killing the pummeler. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Invalid targets essentially wipe the stack now. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If he was a more skilled player, he would have asked for a response to 3 before throwing 4 on the stack, boosting the pummeler to 2/2, which would become 4/4 when 5 resolves. It's 4/4(-3), resolves again to be 8/8(-3) then the Temper hits for more, but not enough to kill. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15015" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T01:04:40.280" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33158" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28909" CreationDate="2016-11-26T15:30:57.667" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on reading around at forums such as BoardGameGeeks, the usual approach is to reset the hands every time a diamond is won. That seems fairly settled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As to your main question, I have been discarding all collected monster cards each round. It seems to me that as the deck slowly dwindles the game is likely to get more challenging, because everyone has increasing information about the deck. Resetting the hand is important because the uniform hand is a basic concept of the game, but I don't see the point in playing 3-5 rounds that are exactly identical. That is, if you reset the deck as well, each round is merely a replay with a different shuffle. The limit of 3-5 rounds then becomes an even more arbitrary cutoff than it already is.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12955" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T15:30:57.667" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33159" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-26T15:51:33.820" Score="1" ViewCount="968" Body="&lt;p&gt;I revoked on trick 11 and the trick was played out. On trick 12 I was second to play and the revoke was pointed out. I was told to correct the revoke and we would sort it out at the end. I won the last trick. &#xA;I know we did not proceed correctly but should I have been penalised?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19006" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T21:26:46.027" Title="Revoke in duplicate bridge" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33160" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33159" CreationDate="2016-11-26T18:39:33.687" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;The penalty for an &lt;em&gt;established revoke&lt;/em&gt;, as this was, is one trick plus return of the revoke trick itself if you won that. So you would properly have forfeited the 13th trick, plus possibly the 11th trick under the condition above. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There is also a provision for the Director to assess an additional penalty &lt;em&gt;if required to restore equity&lt;/em&gt;. It is unlikely that such a circumstance could arise on the 11th trick.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5073" LastActivityDate="2016-11-26T18:39:33.687" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33161" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-26T22:08:44.610" Score="2" ViewCount="31484" Body="&lt;p&gt;In magic if a attacker attacks with 2/1 and I defend with 1/2 who dies.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19009" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-11-26T22:49:53.157" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T18:38:35.913" Title="In magic, if a attacker attacks with a 2/1 and I defend with a 1/2 who dies" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33162" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33161" CreationDate="2016-11-26T22:48:18.723" Score="15" Body="&lt;p&gt;Both creatures will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When one creature blocks one creature, each will simultaneously deal combat damage equal to its power to the other. Thus the 1/2 will receive 2 damage from the 2/1, and the 2/1 will receive 1 damage from the 1/2. Whenever a creature has total damage on it greater than or equal to its toughness, it dies immediately (technically, it dies when &quot;state-based actions&quot; are checked, which basically happens right before each time that any player is allowed to do anything).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are many effects and abilities that could change this result, including:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If exactly one of the creatures has First Strike or Double Strike, it will deal damage before the one that does not, so it will survive while the other will die.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since players can cast instants and activate abilities between the time blockers are declared and the time combat damage is dealt, either player could make their creature survive by e.g. pumping up their creature with a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bGiant%20Growth%5d&quot;&gt;Giant Growth&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="15483" LastEditorUserId="15483" LastEditDate="2016-11-27T18:38:35.913" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T18:38:35.913" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33165" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="27006" CreationDate="2016-11-27T09:32:38.543" Score="-2" Body="&lt;p&gt;How I've played is that if you fail a blind nil you get -200 plus the penalty for your partner. for example if I bet blind nil and my partner says 4 tricks. If I fail the nil we get -240. However, If I win the nil and my partner makes all the tricks we would get a score of +240&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19015" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T09:32:38.543" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33166" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33161" CreationDate="2016-11-27T10:36:57.933" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;They will both die, unless one of them has &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtg.wikia.com/wiki/First_Strike&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;first strike&lt;/a&gt;. If both has first strike, both will die.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19016" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T10:36:57.933" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33170" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-27T19:04:55.537" Score="1" ViewCount="1567" Body="&lt;p&gt;Say I'm white, and the board has 1 white, 3 black and 1 Queen left on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I pocket the Queen. Then, when covering the Queen, I pocket both the remaining white piece along with the striker.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;What is the outcome?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19022" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T12:38:40.950" LastActivityDate="2017-02-28T11:56:16.237" Title="Pocketing the striker while covering the Queen" Tags="|carrom|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="3" FavoriteCount="0" ClosedDate="2017-03-01T14:19:30.667" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33171" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="6164" CreationDate="2016-11-27T19:55:22.433" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have both 1970's Classic Stratego by Milton Bradley and 1997 Ultimate Stratego, which allows either 2 or 4 players.   Both are played on 10x10 board.   However, while Classic has two 40-piece armies, Ultimate has four 20-piece armies.  There are slightly different rules for 2 player &quot;Lightening Version&quot; using only one army or &quot;Campaign version&quot; for using 2 allied armies.   Other big addition in Ultimate is Captain is given cavalry capability and allowed to move 2 spaces.   Also in Ultimate, Scout can disarm bombs while in Classic this ability went to next higher rank (called Minor then but Corporal now).   &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19023" LastActivityDate="2016-11-27T19:55:22.433" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33172" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33173" CreationDate="2016-11-28T01:28:46.513" Score="1" ViewCount="1458" Body="&lt;p&gt;During the Mythos phase when each investigator draws an encounter card, if an enemy is drawn that spawns at a particular location that hasn't yet entered play, that card is discarded.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do I then draw another encounter card in that situation, or did my investigator simply benefit from the lucky draw?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T01:48:39.947" Title="If I draw an enemy that is discarded because it cannot spawn, do I draw another encounter?" Tags="|arkham-horror-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33173" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33172" CreationDate="2016-11-28T01:39:34.303" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;In the situation where no location in play is a viable place to spawn the monster, then you have lucked out and the card is discarded without drawing a replacement card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/c4/b0/c4b0d66c-d79e-411b-bdb5-b5d8c457d4bc/ahc01_rules_reference_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules reference&lt;/a&gt; (page 19 under &lt;strong&gt;Spawn&lt;/strong&gt;):&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If an enemy has no legal location to spawn at (for example, if its spawn instruction directs it to a specific location that is not in play, or if no location in play satisfies its “spawn” instruction), it does not spawn, and is discarded instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nowhere in the rules does it state that a replacement card should be drawn for the discarded monster.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastEditorUserId="6373" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T01:48:39.947" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T01:48:39.947" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33174" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33175" CreationDate="2016-11-28T02:42:54.727" Score="0" ViewCount="407" Body="&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you would discover 1 or more clues at your location: Discard that many clues from Cover Up instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This implies to me that I must be at a location that has at least 1 clue, even though the clue effectively is taken from Cover Up.  Am I able to use this at a location with no clues at all?  It seems at that location I would &lt;strong&gt;not&lt;/strong&gt; discover a clue had I not had Cover Up so I cannot do that.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T03:23:40.547" Title="Can I discard clues from the Cover Up card when at a location with no clues?" Tags="|arkham-horror-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33175" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33174" CreationDate="2016-11-28T03:23:40.547" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, you definitely can't use it at a location that has no clues on it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggering condition for this reaction is &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you would discover 1 or more clues at your location: ...&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;And the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/c4/b0/c4b0d66c-d79e-411b-bdb5-b5d8c457d4bc/ahc01_rules_reference_web.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules reference&lt;/a&gt; (on page 7 under &lt;strong&gt;Clues&lt;/strong&gt;) states&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;A card ability that refers to clues “at a location” is referring to&#xA;  the undiscovered clues that are currently on that location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that you must first have the possibility of discovering at least one clue at your location, and then be the target of a game effect (investigating the location, an Event card, or some other means) that instructs you to discover at least one clue at your location.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The triggered effect also specifies that this would not be of any use to you on a location with zero clues. It says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;... Discard that many clues from Cover Up instead&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Even if there was no minimum limit of discovering 1 clue at your location, discovering zero clues at your location would result in zero clues removed from Cover Up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also note that Cover Up, like all Triggered abilities controlled by the player, is optional to perform. So you can opt to discover the clues if you feel it is of the most benefit to you, or you can opt to discard the same number of clues from Cover Up instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="6373" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T03:23:40.547" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33178" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="3622" CreationDate="2016-11-28T16:50:05.273" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Here's how I think the game creators saw it: Russia is just cannon fodder. The Japs can easily attack from the East, and Germany has a good 2-3 turns before it has to worry about anything besides Russia and strategic bombing raids/rocket attacks. England/U.K. starts off with a probable SBR from Germany, and might as well return the favor. They have also probably lost Anglo-Egypt to the Algerians and/or Lybians, thus shutting down the Suez Canal. They have a lot to defend, but are without the means to do so. Japan, again, will most likely try to attack Russia in the Soviet Far East. China is also a probable hotbedthat they may want to take (because, hey, 4 I.P.C.s per turn is nothing to sneeze at. Also, since AA guns hit 1/6 of the time, may as well take India off of Britain's hands with the generous force that starts off in French Indochina.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19029" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T16:50:05.273" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33179" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="2564" CreationDate="2016-11-28T17:34:23.647" Score="-3" Body="&lt;p&gt;All in all, Japan is meant to last. Most strategies involve leaving your fighters behind to aid in invading everything to the West. In the basic game, you will probably want to send just your Navy (and 1-2 transports, if possible). You are virtually guaranteed to take out their AcC and might get to invade Hawaii. And why WOULDN'T you want to give your tanks and artillery teams a nice, tropical vacation? However, if you plan to abandon Japan and let Germany liberate it (which might just be crazy enough to work, with the right dice rolls,) then send everything you have against America and, if you get lucky, you might get the Western U.S. (you get the victory city AND a factory.) If that works, as you all know, build a sh*tzillion infantry. Or infantries, or whatever. All in all, though, I would recommend sending a naval force of at least a destroyer, a battleship, and at least one transport (with infantry and a tank). This'll guarantee that you get Hawaii and maybe even invade the Western seaboard. Playing by the 1942 SPECIAL rules, however, you can kamikaze the living shiznit out of Hawaii, if that answers your question. As Martin Luther King, Jr. once said, &quot;Dear black baby jesus, I've been shot! Someone, please help me!&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19030" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T17:34:23.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33180" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4268" CreationDate="2016-11-28T19:40:34.830" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Build First, then Move train&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This can speed up a game a decent amount, for several reasons. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Theoretically you've spent the whole round thinking about where to build, so when it comes to your turn you're ready. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Since you build before moving, any new loads you get after making deliveries you'll can think about between turns instead of them changing your plans.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can move your train right up to the end of the track much more safely leading to less wasted movement.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="154" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T19:40:34.830" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33181" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-28T21:12:39.410" Score="5" ViewCount="2265" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can't find any research or public information on this topic.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;s&gt;Edit: It was requested that I clarify the specifics of my request (e.g. the number of players and rule specifics). Rather than pigeon-hole people into a specific category (e.g. 3 players and tournament rules) I prefer to leave it open-ended, so that any and all relevant information will be provided.&lt;/s&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit edit: For the sake of simplicity, let's say that we are playing with 4 players and tournament rules.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19032" LastEditorUserId="19032" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T02:10:40.293" LastActivityDate="2019-12-23T15:57:27.790" Title="What is the average number of turns in a game of Monopoly?" Tags="|monopoly|probability|statistics|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33182" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-28T21:42:16.363" Score="1" ViewCount="1122" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSheoldred%2c%20Whispering%20One%5d&quot;&gt;Sheoldred, Whispering One&lt;/a&gt; and the &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEldrazi%20Monument%5d&quot;&gt;Eldrazi Monument&lt;/a&gt; in play. At the beginning of my upkeep, I sacrifice a creature to pay the upkeep for the Monument. My plan was to bring it back out using Sheoldred's ability, but my opponent has a &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bScavenging%20Ooze%5d&quot;&gt;Scavenging Ooze&lt;/a&gt;. He taps one green and exiles the sacrificed creature when it hits the graveyard. Is he able to exile my creature after the sacrifice but before the Sheoldred ability activates?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19033" LastEditorUserId="9958" LastEditDate="2016-11-28T21:44:29.700" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T22:00:14.207" Title="If there are two or more abilities that go off on the upkeep, can a creature's activated ability go off preventing the second?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33183" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33182" CreationDate="2016-11-28T21:47:49.013" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are 2 things going on here: 1) Your initial scenario doesn't work. 2) Your opponent would get to exile the creature after the sacrifice.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Eldrazi Monument and Sheoldred both trigger, both abilities have to go on the stack. That means that there has to be a target in the graveyard for Sheoldred.  So, a creature sacrificed to Monument won't be there to be targeted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As for Scavenging Ooze, yes, the opponent can exile it in between triggers resolving.  Triggers are just abilities on the stack.  Players get priority before and after each ability resolves. Since they could activate Ooze, with their priority it could activate it.  This is particularly relevant with cards like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bEmrakul%2c%20the%20Aeons%20Torn%5d&quot;&gt;Emrakul, the Aeons Torn&lt;/a&gt; since it is in the graveyard while the shuffle trigger is on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T21:47:49.013" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33184" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33182" CreationDate="2016-11-28T21:53:57.403" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;If you sacrifice a creature to Eldrazi Monument's ability, you can't bring that creature back with Sheoldred during the same upkeep. But if you could, then your opponent would be able to stop you using Scavenging Ooze.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;As your upkeep step starts, the first thing you do is put all abilities that trigger at the beginning of your upkeep on the stack. You can choose what order they are put on the stack, so you can have Eldrazi Monument's ability resolve before Sheoldred's ability. However, you also have to choose the target for Sheoldred's ability when it is put on the stack, so Sheoldred can only return a creature that was already in the graveyard before you sacrifice a creature to Eldrazi Monument.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It would work differently with a slightly different ability. Consider this ability:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;At the beginning of your upkeep, return &lt;strike&gt;target&lt;/strike&gt; &lt;strong&gt;a&lt;/strong&gt; creature card from your graveyard to the battlefield.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In this case, the ability does not have a target, so you do not choose which creature to return until the ability resolves. Then the situation plays out like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;You put the alternate Sheoldred ability and the Eldrazi Monument ability on the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Eldrazi Monument ability resolves, and you sacrifice a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;At this point, both you and your opponent have another chance to respond before the alternate Sheoldred ability resolves. Your opponent activates the Scavenging Ooze's ability targeting the creature you sacrificed.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The Scavenging Ooze's ability resolves, and the creature is exiled.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;p&gt;The alternate Sheoldred ability resolves, and you can return a creature from your graveyard to the battlefield. You can't return the creature you sacrificed, because it has been exiled, but you can choose a different creature, if there is one available.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T21:53:57.403" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33185" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33182" CreationDate="2016-11-28T22:00:14.207" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;It doesn't matter if your opponent has a Scavenging Ooze, you are not able to return the creature sacrificed to the Monument with Sheoldred on the same turn it was sacrificed. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is because at the beginning of your upkeep everything that triggers goes on the stack at the same time. For the Monument this doesn't matter since you choose which creature to sacrifice when the ability resolves. For Sheoldred however since it has the word 'target' in the ability you have to choose a legal target when the ability is put onto the stack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If we were to assume that Sheoldred's ability said &lt;em&gt;'return a creature card'&lt;/em&gt; rather than &lt;em&gt;'return target creature card'&lt;/em&gt; you still could not return the card because your opponent can activate abilities before her trigger would resolve, but after the Monument's would.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In order for any spell or ability to resolve each player must pass priority without doing anything, and if there are multiple spells or abilities on the stack priority must be passed by all players in between each spell/ability. There is no way to just 'resolve the stack' without all players getting to do things. In Magic priority is basically the system that allows players to do things, when you have priority you can cast a spell or activate an ability (and a few other things). Since your opponent gains priority in between the Monument's triggered ability and Sheoldred's triggered ability they have the opportunity to activate their Ooze's ability and remove the creature card from the graveyard before it could be returned.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T22:00:14.207" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33186" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33181" CreationDate="2016-11-28T22:40:02.910" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Playing online against 3 computer opponents, one of my games would typically last 30-45 turns. I used the standard rules (i.e., no money on Free Parking, limited number of houses and hotels). Because it was me against computers, the games would take ~15 minutes to play. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Playing against human opponents would certainly extend the actual playing time, and may likely increase the number of turns for a game as well. House rules which inject money into the players' hands (e.g., money on Free Parking) will increase the number of turns, and thus playing time, too.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17879" LastActivityDate="2016-11-28T22:40:02.910" CommentCount="4" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33187" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33197" CreationDate="2016-11-28T22:59:10.417" Score="3" ViewCount="2748" Body="&lt;p&gt;Does Roland Banks' weakness Cover Up get discarded when I've removed all 3 clue tokens from it, or do other weaknesses get discarded when they are done with the instructions on the card?  There is no mention of it so my thinking is that I do not have to discard it and potentially end up drawing it again once I've resolved a card such as Cover Up.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T16:41:09.187" Title="Do I discard weaknesses when they are done?" Tags="|arkham-horror-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33188" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33189" CreationDate="2016-11-29T02:06:55.987" Score="2" ViewCount="397" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Magic the Gathering, most vehicles in the Kaladesh set appear to be colorless. If you crew with a green creature does the vehicle become green?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This would affect cards that target color. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17573" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T02:13:52.563" Title="What color is a crewed vehicle?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33189" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33188" CreationDate="2016-11-29T02:13:52.563" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, vehicles don't gain a color, they stay colorless. I suppose that'd make some sense thematically, but in terms of the rules, Crew is just an ability that turns a noncreature vehicle into a creature, and that's really all it does. You shouldn't really think of vehicles as having creature(s) inside them; they stay separate. It's more like the creature(s) cranking the engine starter.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can see this from the full rules definition of crew (rule 702.121), which is conveniently quoted in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://magic.wizards.com/en/articles/archive/feature/kaladesh-release-notes-2016-09-16&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kaladesh Release Notes&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;702.121a Crew is an activated ability of Vehicle cards. “Crew N” means “Tap any number of untapped creatures you control with total power N or greater: This permanent becomes an artifact creature until end of turn.”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Nothing in there about color!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The release notes also include rulings for a bunch of common (and less common) scenarios, the same ones that are reproduced in the Gatherer rulings for each vehicle - see for example &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFleetwheel%20Cruiser%5d&quot;&gt;Fleetwheel Cruiser&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(And it's not just most - all vehicles are colorless artifacts.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="409" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T02:13:52.563" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33190" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-29T03:30:49.960" Score="0" ViewCount="3474" Body="&lt;p&gt;If &quot;Sam&quot; calls a revoke and he is incorrect, does the other side receive any score points for Sam's incorrect call?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19036" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T21:05:29.550" Title="What are the rules on revokes in bridge game" Tags="|bridge|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33191" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33195" CreationDate="2016-11-29T04:40:50.683" Score="1" ViewCount="1602" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can abilities be triggered multiple times as long as the cost is paid?  The Physical Training asset card has a free triggered ability that says&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Spend 1 resource: You get +1 Willpower for this skill test&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Does this mean I can spend 3 resource to get +3 willpower?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I assume that as long as abilities don't say &quot;once per ___&quot; that I can figure they can be used as long as the cost can be paid right then and there?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T15:25:12.647" Title="Can the same ability be triggered multiple times?" Tags="|arkham-horror-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33192" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33194" CreationDate="2016-11-29T06:19:05.767" Score="0" ViewCount="1414" Body="&lt;p&gt;When damage (or horror) is dealt, do I effectively take those N units of damage and get to spread them out however I like as long as the distribution doesn't exceed the remaining health for any particular asset?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T15:22:52.173" Title="Is the total damage dealt from a source effectively parceled out across any number of assets?" Tags="|arkham-horror-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33194" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33192" CreationDate="2016-11-29T15:22:52.173" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This is detailed in the Rules Reference Guide (relevant section below, from page 7 under &amp;quot;Dealing Damage/Horror&amp;quot;), but the short answer is that damage is allocated in two steps - first it is &lt;em&gt;assigned&lt;/em&gt; and then it is &lt;em&gt;applied&lt;/em&gt;. The only restriction for assigning damage is that you cannot overload it (so if you have an ally who can take 1 sanity and 1 damage, you cannot put a 3 sanity tokens on it).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But yes, otherwise, damage or horror can be split among your investigator and any assets as you deem fit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When an investigator or enemy is dealt damage and/or horror,&#xA;follow these steps, in order:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Assign Damage/Horror: Determine the amount of damage and/or horror being dealt. Place damage and/or horror tokens equal to the amount of&#xA;damage and horror being dealt next to the cards that will be taking&#xA;the damage/horror.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Apply Damage/Horror: Any assigned damage/ horror that has not been prevented is now placed on each card to which it has been assigned,&#xA;simultaneously. If no damage/horror is applied in this step, no&#xA;damage/horror has been successfully dealt.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T15:22:52.173" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33195" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33191" CreationDate="2016-11-29T15:25:12.647" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, that ability is a &quot;free triggered ability&quot; (RRG, page 3) and may be triggered in any player ability window as many times as you would like, so long as you can pay the cost (in this case, 1 resource).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One aside is to note that it says &quot;You get...&quot;, so you cannot use talent cards such as these to buff other investigators.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T15:25:12.647" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33197" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33187" CreationDate="2016-11-29T15:31:04.087" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Weakness (or treachery) cards go to your discard after being completed. Page 20 of the RRG:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When a treachery card is drawn by an investigator, that investigator&#xA;  must resolve its effects. Then, place the card in its discard pile&#xA;  unless otherwise instructed by the ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Further, on page 7 of the RRG (emphasis mine), pertaining to weaknesses that are enemies and can be defeated:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;if an enemy has damage equal to or higher than its health, it is&#xA;  defeated and placed in the encounter discard pile &lt;strong&gt;(or in its owner’s&#xA;  discard pile if it is a weakness)&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Non-enemy weaknesses specifically say on the card what to do with them. For example, Cover Up says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;When you would discover 1 or more clues at your location: Discard that many clues from Cover Up instead.&#xA;  Forced - When the game ends, if there are any clues on Cover Up: You suffer 1 mental trauma.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that Cover Up stays on the table (with no clues on it) until the end of the scenario.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In contrast, Daisy's weakness (the Necromonicon), says: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;...if The Necronomicon has no horror on it, discard it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-11-29T16:41:09.187" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T16:41:09.187" CommentCount="8" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33198" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33199" CreationDate="2016-11-29T16:59:19.687" Score="1" ViewCount="7467" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Monopoly, at the start of each round players roll the dice to determine who goes first. But what if the highest number are the same for 2 or more players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Let's say player 1 got 12 and player 2 also got 12 while others got less than that. Does the official rule states if everyone has to roll the dice again or just the highest players?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19041" LastActivityDate="2018-06-16T15:34:18.717" Title="Roll dice to see who goes first in Monopoly" Tags="|monopoly|dice|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="9" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33199" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33198" CreationDate="2016-11-29T17:16:01.410" Score="8" Body="&lt;p&gt;All the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;official rules&lt;/a&gt; say is &lt;em&gt;&quot; Starting with the Banker, each player in turn throws the dice.The player with the highest total starts the play: &quot;&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;However I have never seen a system for determining who goes first where if the top place is a tie all players re-roll, only the players that actually tie re-roll.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="9958" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T17:16:01.410" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33200" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33042" CreationDate="2016-11-29T18:56:27.880" Score="-1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Neither you won nor lose the game, keep the Queen on board and pocket along with your C/m &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19022" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T18:56:27.880" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33201" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33207" CreationDate="2016-11-29T15:24:33.913" Score="8" ViewCount="631" Body="&lt;p&gt;We're booting around ideas for a tactical skirmish board game and stumbled onto what we think is a cool idea for a mechanic, the trouble is we're not sure how to balance it.  The mechanic works like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Momentum is tracked on a slider numbered 11 to 0 to 11.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Each action in the game has some momentum cost.  This moves the slider away (towards 0) from that player.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When a player ends their turn, their opponent moves the slider towards themselves by 5, and can take actions until they're satisfied, but can't move the slider past the 3 on their opponent's side of the track.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, i have two intertwined and related questions:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) is this mechanic too 'weird' or odd for a tactical board game (think Final Fantasy Tactics), and are we better off going with something else?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) What process would be used to balance this mechanic, IE make it so one player isn't dominating the game.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Edit to clarify the mechanic:&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;if they end their turn, the other player will move the marker 5 towards them. So if you and I are playing, and the momentum is at 6, you'll move the marker 5 towards you. I'll then take a turn with 1 momentum point. When i decide i'm done, say at -2, you'll slide it towards you to -7. If you don't have the marker on your side, you don't have momentum, you skip your turn (including the step that lets your opponent slide the marker towards them)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18478" OwnerDisplayName="Adam Wells" LastEditorUserId="18478" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T13:30:30.280" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T03:10:45.703" Title="Balancing a Momentum Mechanic" Tags="|game-design|balance|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="5" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33202" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33198" CreationDate="2016-11-29T20:12:43.437" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;This isn't covered by the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/instruct/00009.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, which simply state&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Starting with the Banker, each player in turn throws the dice. The player with the highest total starts the play&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both of the systems you propose work (since they both randomly determine who goes first). However, it's customary to only have the tied players re-roll as this reduces the odds of having another tie. This would be the expected resolution method (regardless of the game). You should seek an agreement from the other players before the initial roll if you plan to deviate from this.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2880" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T20:12:43.437" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33203" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33201" CreationDate="2016-11-29T20:25:25.517" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;Rather than a momentum mechanic, this seems a bit like an initiative mechanic or an endurance mechanic. Like, you can take more actions, but it wears you out so you take longer to recover/give the other player more time to act. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One idea is that there are increased penalties for going past a certain point.  Yes, you could go to 11 on the opponent's side, but then the opponent either gets 1.5x or 2x points for their turn (in addition to more momentum, or as more momentum), or it is less effective (3-5 is same momentum cost as (7-11).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Also, I feel that you shouldn't limit the player to a certain point past the middle (or start with a limit but remove it as the game goes on).  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T20:25:25.517" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33204" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-29T21:33:33.540" Score="-1" ViewCount="15568" Body="&lt;p&gt;When my opponent declares blockers, I want to be able to kill a blocking creature (with something like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHero%27s%5d%2b%5bDownfall%5d&quot;&gt;Hero&amp;#39;s Downfall&lt;/a&gt;) while still doing combat damage to my opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this possible?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19043" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-11-30T09:59:45.947" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T09:59:45.947" Title="Can I cast instants in response to my opponent declaring blockers?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-11-30T15:01:09.350" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33205" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33204" CreationDate="2016-11-29T21:43:29.593" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;The last time you can cast an instant to prevent a creature from blocking is in the Assign Attackers step, after attackers have been declared. If you have moved to the Declare Blockers step, it's too late, since the very first thing that happens is the defender declares blockers.  Nobody has priority until after that happens. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T21:43:29.593" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33206" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33204" CreationDate="2016-11-29T22:12:52.017" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;To answer the question in your title, yes, each player receives priority and can cast instants after blockers are declared. However, to answer the (unwritten) question in the body of your text, the attacking creature will still be considered blocked, even if the defender is killed or otherwise removed from combat. A blocked creature will deal no damage to the defending player unless it has trample (or some other card-specific ability).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It sounds like you want to kill an opponent's creature before blockers are declared. Your last chance to do this is when you receive priority after attackers are declared. If you kill potential blockers at this point, they won't be around to be declared blockers, meaning the damage will get through to the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12631" LastActivityDate="2016-11-29T22:12:52.017" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33207" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33201" CreationDate="2016-11-30T08:08:34.963" Score="9" Body="&lt;p&gt;I can imagine this system working better if implemented as an additional layer to the general action system, rather than a standalone concept of managing actions - let me outline what I have in mind:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each action a unit can take has a cost&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;each player has an amount of action points that regenerate each turn (not all have to be used, but you can't save any for the next round). Depending on your game's nature, you may want that limit to be different between factions or similar distinguishing factors&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;there's a shared, infinite momentum range for both players that starts at 0 and never changes on it's own (such as, at the end of a player's turn)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;players may (in addition to spending any amount of action points for any number of actions) shift the momentum bar towards their opponent for the amount of an action's cost that exceeds the action points of that player's current turn&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;they may only take a single action per turn that moves the momentum bar on their opponent's side, but as long as momentum is in their own favor, they may use as many actions as they'd like, spending momentum in addition to action points&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's an example of how that could play out, using only movement as an example for simplicity:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Both players have 5 action points and control 5 Soldiers with a movement cost of 2. The momentum bar is at 3 in favor of player 2.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 1 moves 3 Soldiers by spending 5 action points and shift the momentum meter by 1 (to 4) in favor of player 2. Because the momentum is in the opponent's favor and player 1 has already used momentum this round, they may not use further momentum&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Player 2 moves 4 Soldiers by spending 5 action points and shift the momentum bar by 2 for their third, and another 2 for their fourth Soldier, ending with the momentum bar at 1 in favor of player 2. Since the momentum bar is still in their favor, they could spend more points, but they decide to keep it this way to retain the edge over the opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;By making the momentum bar an isolated element, you're giving players a better chance to judge how their actions will shift the battle in their favor, as with your initial solution, the momentum bar would shift crazy amounts every turn - with this solution, it's an optional element that doesn't &amp;quot;regenerate&amp;quot; on it's own, and therefore represents a more fair, yet also unforgiving investment for players, as every action that doesn't pay off shifts the meter towards your opponent, and now they have the upper hand in deciding whether to save it for later, or spend it on a counter attack.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It makes it especially interesting if your unit action costs force players to spend momentum points or waste some of their action points, rewarding players for planning accurately. I can also imagine that certain units could have action costs so high that they could only be paid using momentum in the first place. By never being able to use momentum once per turn unless it's in your favor, you're not allowing any &amp;quot;rushes&amp;quot;, other than if your opponent has decided to give you that advantage due to their excessive use of momentum.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;All in all, this sounds like an element to make battles less predictable in a non-random, tactical way.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2020-06-17T09:01:24.697" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T15:22:55.497" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33208" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33204" CreationDate="2016-11-30T08:19:59.783" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;You can't &lt;em&gt;respond&lt;/em&gt; to blockers being declared the way you could respond to a player casting an Instant, as declaring blockers is a turn-based action that doesn't use the stack.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This means that once the game moves toward the &lt;a href=&quot;https://rules.wizards.com/rulebook.aspx?game=Magic&amp;amp;category=Game+Rules#395&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Declare Blockers Step&lt;/a&gt;, your opponent will get to declare blockers, all attacking creatures that were assigned a blocker become blocked, and then players get priority. Even if you destroy a creature using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bHero%27s%5d%2b%5bDownfall%5d&quot;&gt;Hero&amp;#39;s Downfall&lt;/a&gt; at this point, the creature it was blocking is still blocked and generally won't deal combat damage.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T08:19:59.783" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33209" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33170" CreationDate="2016-11-30T10:05:28.123" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Two of your pocketed pieces are removed and placed on the board. You continue playing, trying to cover the queen.&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'm referring to the &lt;a href=&quot;http://icf-media.beepworld.de/laws-of-carrom.htm&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;ICF Laws of Carrom&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;101) a) While covering the Queen by a proper stroke, if a player pockets the striker along with his C/m, the C/m so pocketed plus one C/m as Due shall be taken out for placing by the opponent. The player shall however, continue his turn. If in that subsequent stroke no C/m of the player is pocketed, the Queen shall not be considered to have been covered and it shall be taken out for placing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T10:05:28.123" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33210" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="28982" CreationDate="2016-11-30T14:45:27.983" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;In addition to the way proposed by Nathan, I would like to add a few further ideas.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Winning percentage&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One simple way to judge the relative strength of two players is to look at their mutual game history (if it is large enough, of course!) and consider the percentage of won and lost games. For instance the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.europeangodatabase.eu/EGD/EGF_rating_system.php&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;EGF rating system&lt;/a&gt; has this property:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;This setting gives about 30% probability for beating a 1 grade stronger opponent.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So if one players wins only 30% of the games, we may assume he is one stone weaker. Other percentages can be translated via their formula.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Of course, a large number of games between the two players is required. Also, relative strength is not transitive: It may well be that player A usually beats B, B usually beats C, and yet C beats A more often than not.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Score&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Historically, the average score difference in (sufficiently many) even games is a good indicator.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;One stone difference in strength equals two komi, and komi is usually around 6-7 points. So, for instance, if one players wins by around 26 points on average, we may assume he is 2 stones stronger.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Obviously, this approach suffers from resignations - the players would need to continue lost games until scoring. simply applying a threshold seems to be impossible in general, and may only be useful in specific instances.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;h2&gt;Judging moves&lt;/h2&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I was interested in seeing how accurately we can judge the level of Go players from their moves and created a website for this purpose: &lt;a href=&quot;https://kyudan.net&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://kyudan.net&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It displays the first 100 moves of an anonymized game. Once you submit your estimation of the respective level of the players, their real rank is displayed. All players are dan level up (so the options rank from 1 dan to 9 dan only). More information about the process are described &lt;a href=&quot;https://kyudan.net/about/&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When I last looked, there were more than 2000 results submitted by more than 100 people. There was a significant (from appearance, I did not really number crunch this) difference in estimation accuracy between different judges. The most accurate people were often within 1 - 2 stones of the real ranks, but on average people were off by 2 - 3 stones. You can see my personal results &lt;a href=&quot;https://kyudan.net/user/63&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;here&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering that simply always selecting &quot;5 dan&quot; will lead to being within 4 stones of the correct answer, it seems apparent that judging player level from a single game is not easy for most of us.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="60" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T14:45:27.983" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33211" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-11-30T17:25:03.337" Score="3" ViewCount="455" Body="&lt;p&gt;I like to know the name of a card game. It has a pack of cards and someone nominates someone to do an action on that card, e.g.:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;crawl on your hands and knees like a cat and meow at each person&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;go around each person and kiss them on the nose&quot; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&quot;walk up and down in a red dress like your on a catwalk&quot;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Unfortunately I have no clue as to when and where the game was produced. This game is a family game, no rude ones in there as far as I can remember. I've looked at Cranium, but that's not it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I don't have any real pictures of the game, other than a very low-resolution image I pulled out from another photo I have, showing a back card with an orange or red border and white text:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMvBq.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMvBq.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;a very low-resolution blurry card&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have been hunting high and low for it and for the life of me I can't find it anywhere! Its silly little actions are hilarious.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19050" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-11T10:17:18.073" LastActivityDate="2017-01-18T21:14:48.170" Title="Does anyone know this card game" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33212" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="4671" CreationDate="2016-11-30T19:22:18.837" Score="-4" Body="&lt;p&gt;EDIT: SEE COMMENTS! This is a BAD idea - the double-sleeved cards are identifiable!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;On the specific topic of wear-and-tear to the cards, I double sleeve all my double-faced cards, even though I don't double sleeve the rest of the deck.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Doesn't help with the other issues, but at least means I'm not constanly touching and nicking the edges.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="13714" LastEditorUserId="13714" LastEditDate="2017-01-26T10:06:43.477" LastActivityDate="2017-01-26T10:06:43.477" CommentCount="7" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33213" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="29824" CreationDate="2016-11-30T20:56:36.010" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is very hard to say it without browsing all possible combinations. Another question is are you asking about moves in game that make sense or any random game.&#xA;I was playing this game many years and usually one consider move choosing out of 3 maximally 5 possibilities for good move. However in mid-game there are 10-20 legal moves frequently. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You can try some maths to estimate max number of legal moves. Board is 64 fields. You can move only on adjacent. So in my opinion max number possible moves is when you have filled center 6x6, lets say white are on boarder of 6x6 and black are in center. Black have a move so he can move on any field left on board. It gives 28 possibilities. I would say it is maximal estimate.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;If you still need to analyse that you should have a look on that &lt;a href=&quot;http://radagast.se/othello/download.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;program&lt;/a&gt;. It is used by most good players. There is also big openings book.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19048" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T20:56:36.010" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33215" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="15344" CreationDate="2016-11-30T21:00:28.600" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Server where many good players play is &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.kurnik.pl/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Kurnik&lt;/a&gt;. If you're asking about communities &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.worldothello.org/&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;this&lt;/a&gt; is a website of federation that organise international tournaments.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19048" LastActivityDate="2016-11-30T21:00:28.600" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33216" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33201" CreationDate="2016-12-01T01:12:01.823" Score="5" Body="&lt;p&gt;The easiest way I can think of to balance this sort of mechanic is to have certain actions only be available at certain momentum levels.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In particular, you could introduce a class of &quot;desperate actions&quot; for cases when the momentum is too far in your opponent's favor. Obviously this would depend on exactly what sort of game you're designing and exactly what sorts of units are involved, but this could include things from suicidal attacks to simply overextending a unit's own abilities. For example,&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Aircraft can perform kamikaze attacks&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ships can accelerate to ramming speed&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Soldiers can move further or take extra actions at the cost of their own health&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Guns can fire hotter rounds to increase range/damage but with a 50% chance of exploding in the gunner's hands&lt;sup&gt;(i think this is how guns work right?)&lt;/sup&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The important thing is that, while powerful, these actions would also come with a very serious &lt;em&gt;cost and/or risk&lt;/em&gt;; the side that's confident in their overwhelming power is unlikely to resort to these when they can just play it safe and still probably win, but the side that's being overwhelmed would be more open to such ideas when the alternative is losing outright. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;A cornered animal, as they say, is at its most dangerous because it has nothing to lose.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T03:10:45.703" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T03:10:45.703" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33217" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33211" CreationDate="2016-12-01T04:02:05.240" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;It's a little more childish, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://www.walmart.com/ip/23001240?wmlspartner=wlpa&amp;amp;selectedSellerId=0&amp;amp;adid=22222222227023293659&amp;amp;wl0=&amp;amp;wl1=g&amp;amp;wl2=c&amp;amp;wl3=40344671192&amp;amp;wl4=pla-78309348152&amp;amp;wl5=9032443&amp;amp;wl6=&amp;amp;wl7=&amp;amp;wl8=&amp;amp;wl9=pla&amp;amp;wl10=8175035&amp;amp;wl11=online&amp;amp;wl12=23001240&amp;amp;wl13=&amp;amp;veh=sem&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Cranium Game&lt;/a&gt; is like that. $12 at Walmart. I've never heard of an adult version the way you described. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19057" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T08:50:27.967" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T08:50:27.967" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33218" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33220" CreationDate="2016-12-01T04:49:30.133" Score="-1" ViewCount="1781" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am making a mana ramp deck, and I was wondering what other ways can I get 1 red other than tapping lands. I don't mind paying life or discarding that creature, like Simian Spirit Guide, but I want to be able to play it out of my hand.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19057" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T08:12:07.113" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T08:19:33.330" Title="How can I get red mana immediately?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-12-01T15:20:58.170" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33220" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33218" CreationDate="2016-12-01T07:28:38.387" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There's a only a little number of ways you can generate mana right out of your hand. Let's have a list:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSimian%20Spirit%20Guide%5d&quot;&gt;Simian Spirit Guide&lt;/a&gt; and &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Spirit%20Guide%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Spirit Guide&lt;/a&gt; can be exiled from your hand for mana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bChancellor%20of%20the%20Tangle%5d&quot;&gt;Chancellor of the Tangle&lt;/a&gt; will provide a single (green) mana for free, and only in the first turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Other than those, I'm not aware of any cards that produce mana straight out of your hand. Of course, if you don't mind casting those cards, there are a few more options:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Spells like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bDesperate%20Ritual%5d&quot;&gt;Desperate Ritual&lt;/a&gt; from your hand, though these will generally cost you mana&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You can cast creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPriest%20of%20Urabrask%5d&quot;&gt;Priest of Urabrask&lt;/a&gt;, which generate mana when they enter the battlefield. Note that at least for the color red, there are no creatures that produce more mana than they cost, but cards like Priest of Urabrask let you filter other colors.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Similar to the above, you can sacrifice some creatures for mana, even allowing you to &quot;store&quot; some mana for the next turn - &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bWild%20Cantor%5d&quot;&gt;Wild Cantor&lt;/a&gt; would be an example.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTreasonous%20Ogre%5d&quot;&gt;Treasonous Ogre&lt;/a&gt; will, once on the battlefield, generate you as much mana as your life total can afford&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bLotus%20Petal%5d&quot;&gt;Lotus Petal&lt;/a&gt; can be cast for no mana and sacrificed for a single mana of any color, with other Lotus cards working similarly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bMox%20Ruby%5d&quot;&gt;Mox Ruby&lt;/a&gt; can be cast for no mana and tapped immediately. Other Mox cards work similarly.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16063" LastEditorUserId="16063" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T08:19:33.330" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T08:19:33.330" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33221" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33211" CreationDate="2016-12-01T09:26:59.853" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;Is it &quot;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/31016/we-didnt-playtest-all&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;We Didn’t Playtest This At All&lt;/a&gt;&quot;?&#xA;It has cards with really strange rules like you describe and there are indeed booster packs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19059" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2016-12-01T09:55:55.003" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T09:55:55.003" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33222" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="31526" CreationDate="2016-12-01T11:51:20.290" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;From www.spotlightongames.com&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Return of the Dinosaurs &#xA;(unknown); Spear's Games-1992; 2-4; 20 &#xA;A double-sided board affords two different games. Escape from the Volcano is a roll-and-move game. The challenge spaces trigger a contest among the players. Whoever plays the card having the higher value in the chosen category gets to move one space further away from the soon-to-erupt volcano. The first to reach the tenth space wins. The Dinosaur Dig is a roll-and-move game of collecting pieces to build up a dinosaur. A dig space permits drawing a dinosaur piece card. The first to collect all four pieces wins. Cards contain a number of facts about dinosaurs.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19060" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T11:51:20.290" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33223" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25373" CreationDate="2016-12-01T19:11:23.447" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://xwing-miniatures.wikia.com/wiki/Mission_12:_Bounty_Hunt&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Mission 12: Bounty Hunt&lt;/a&gt;, which can be found in the IG-2000 Expansion Pack, is a scenario for 3 players. I've tried it both as Han Solo vs. Boba Fett vs. IG-88B and as three 100-point squads with a designated wing leader. Either way, it's always gone smoothly as a way for 3 people to play a single game of X-Wing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T19:11:23.447" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33224" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="32031" CreationDate="2016-12-01T21:51:33.873" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/a9/af/a9af1e4a-41d1-4dee-8cc2-a5cedee684bf/x-wing_tournament_regulations_v121_text_version.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;current X-Wing Tournament Regulations&lt;/a&gt; (as of now, that's Version 1.2.1, effective November 1, 2016), you must have the following items:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ship models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Bases&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pegs&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pilot cards (all from the same faction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ship tokens (all from the same faction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Maneuver dials (matching your ships, but not necessarily from the same faction)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Upgrade cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tokens (other indicators are allowed with certain restrictions)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A complete damage deck&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Sufficient dice for attack and defense rolls&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A full set of maneuver templates&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A range ruler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;A squad list (or arrive early to fill one out)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Three unique obstacle tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Any bomb tokens (in a reasonable quantity) required for your list&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;ID tokens (or an equivalent way to distinguish your ships from each other and from your opponent's ships)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You should bring the following tokens not specifically listed above:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Shield tokens &lt;em&gt;(unless your list only contains ships with no shields)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Focus tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Evade tokens &lt;em&gt;(unless your ships do not have a way to get evade tokens)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Pairs of target lock tokens &lt;em&gt;(unless your ships do not have a way to acquire target locks)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Weapons disabled tokens &lt;em&gt;(if any of your ships can perform the SLAM action or if you want to indicate Corran Horn cannot perform attacks this round)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stress tokens &lt;em&gt;(even if your ships have no red maneuvers on their dials)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Critical hit tokens &lt;em&gt;(many players do not worry about these, but it's a good idea―and good sportsmanship―to indicate which ships are affected by face-up damage cards)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ion tokens &lt;em&gt;(players often only bring these when their is list capable of dealing ion tokens to enemy or friendly ships)&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tractor beam tokens &lt;em&gt;(like Ion tokens, usually only brought when their list is capable of dealing tractor beam tokens)&lt;/em&gt; &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;You &lt;strong&gt;cannot&lt;/strong&gt; use the following during a tournament round:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Notes&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party materials or information (reformatted versions of information available in official products are allowed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party playmats not provided by the venue&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party ship tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party obstacle tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party bomb tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party tokens or indicators that obscure significant component information, are not resistant to accidental modification, or do not have a purpose of use that is clear to both players&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party or altered cards&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Non-identical or altered Damage card sleeves&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party ship bases, or ship bases modified to alter their size or shape&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Custom &quot;setup&quot; templates designed to aid players in ship deployment&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party ship models&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Ship models modified in a way that would create confusion about which ship the model represents&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Asteroids, debris fields, and bomb tokens altered in any way except marking to indicate ownership&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Third-party or altered dice (unobtrusive markings to indicate ownership are allowed)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Movement templates or range rulers that do not match the dimensions of official maneuver templates, range rulers, or sections of an official range ruler&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Official products which are not yet legal (unreleased, or―for Premier events―not released 11 days before the event)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Refer to the following headings/subheadings of the tournament regulations for more information:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Playmats&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player Materials&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squad Building&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Squad Lists&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Multiple Faction Ships&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Component Modifications&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Lost and Damaged Components&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Tokens&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Legal Products&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Game Setup (step 2)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Taking Notes and Outside Material&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="377" LastActivityDate="2016-12-01T21:51:33.873" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33225" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33226" CreationDate="2016-12-01T22:53:35.457" Score="1" ViewCount="200" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Boss Monster 2, &lt;a href=&quot;http://bossmonster.wikia.com/wiki/Imp_Temple&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Imp Temple&lt;/a&gt; essentially lets you take a card from an opponent when you force him to discard it, however the language is ambiguous.  It says &quot;Once per turn, when you force an opponent to discard a card, put that card into your hand instead.&quot;  However, we could not come up with a consensus for what &quot;Once per turn&quot; meant.  Does it mean:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This ability can 'steal' one card, one time per turn.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The ability can 'steal' one card per player you steal from.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;This ability steals all cards discarded as the result of a single action.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Essentially, my friend used a Chump Chomper to destroy a Cursed Tomb, which caused all 3 opponents to discard 2 room cards, and he believed that by using the Imp Temple at the same time, he was entitled to all 6.  We compromised on #2 for the sake of time, but I'm curious how others interpret these cards.  What is the official meaning of 'Once per turn?'&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="7776" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T11:24:10.780" Title="How does Imp Temple scale with multiple people and multiple discards?" Tags="|boss-monster|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33226" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33225" CreationDate="2016-12-02T11:18:08.027" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;It means &lt;strong&gt;once per turn&lt;/strong&gt;. You can steal a single card once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It's hard to justify this beyond the wording of the card. The card says &lt;strong&gt;once per turn&lt;/strong&gt;, so you can do it once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;In your scenario, your player stole a card three times in a turn. That's not once per turn. Otherwise, it would say something along the lines of &quot;one per turn for each opponent&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability refers to a singular card. &quot;When you force an opponent to discard &lt;strong&gt;a card&lt;/strong&gt;, put &lt;strong&gt;that card&lt;/strong&gt; into your hand&quot;. If more than one card is discarded at once, you can choose which one to take, but you can't take more than one, because then you've done it more than once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The ability refers to a singular opponent. If more than one opponent discards, you can choose who to take from, but you can't take from more than one, because then you've done it more than once per turn.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For it to work on all discarded cards, it would say something along the lines of &quot;Once per turn, when you force an opponent to discard any cards, put those cards into your hand instead.&quot; In your scenario, this would allow the player to get 2 cards from one of the opponents.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For it to work as your player believed, it would have to say &quot;Once per turn, whenever you force any opponents to discard any cards, put those cards into your hand instead.&quot; Alternatively, it could just not have the once per turn limitation.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1706" LastEditorUserId="1706" LastEditDate="2016-12-02T11:24:10.780" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T11:24:10.780" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33227" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="5646" CreationDate="2016-12-02T12:14:54.227" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Although I'm new to the game and still trying to find a good way to sort the 3K+ card collection my brother just gave me I personally believe the best way to sort cards for a specific card would be alphabetical with index cards to separate the letters. That method is only good when you have a lot of time on your hands depending on the collection size since if you just bought your first toolkit it would be easier to start with those than with boxes upon boxes. This is just something I know my friends and their parents do and it seems to work very well 90% of the time in case they misplace the card when it goes back. And if you are trying to make decks such as maybe a low mana cost deck with all one mana creatures you could do a mana sort deck where the prices go up in each section and in the individual sections you can separate by color, rarity, rotation, alphabetical, or how often you think you'll use it. These our just a few thoughts i have after looking threw the ways friends sort their cards and how I'll be sorting my cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19069" LastActivityDate="2016-12-02T12:14:54.227" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33228" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-02T22:34:11.137" Score="1" ViewCount="1314" Body="&lt;p&gt;I am creating a fantasy collectible card game and one if its aspects is mage battles. I have been a bit stumped on how to make it highly interactive.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I am familiar with Magic: The Gathering and I enjoy the increased depth due to the stack and the ability to act during your opponent's turn.&lt;br&gt;&#xA;I have also played several online card games. Maybe I had simply missed those, but reactions to spells and effects do not seem to used.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I would like to, in some ways, replicate the interactivity that can happen on the stack. I am reluctant to simply copy it. I feel like I need a new perspective for inspiration. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Are there any other ways to evoke back-and-forth mage battles?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19072" LastActivityDate="2017-03-01T10:20:28.213" Title="Mechanics for interactivity in card games" Tags="|game-design|mechanics|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33229" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33273" CreationDate="2016-12-02T23:04:49.330" Score="9" ViewCount="1499" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing &lt;em&gt;Star Wars: Imperial Assult&lt;/em&gt;, we had a strange situation where an Imperial had two Rebel figures down the field. One of them was clearly not within Line of Sight because one corner of the Imperial figure could not draw a line to two of the Rebel figure's corners. So the Imperial decided to target the other Rebel.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vlp3X.png&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vlp3X.png&quot; alt=&quot;Imperial Assault light of sight issue?&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;But that's when we remembered that figures block line of sight. If the other Rebel figure wasn't in the way, the Imperial player would clearly have line of sight. But because this Rebel is where it is, it would appear that &lt;strong&gt;a Rebel that the Imperial doesn't have line of sight to is somehow blocking line of sight to another figure&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is this a correct interpretation of the rules? Realistically, it makes no sense, since the only reason a figure would block line of sight is because it would be hit by a blaster bolt instead.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3389" LastEditorUserId="3389" LastEditDate="2016-12-11T01:10:55.907" LastActivityDate="2016-12-11T01:10:55.907" Title="Is this a case where a figure doesn't have LOS to an enemy because another figure it doesn't have LOS to is in the way?" Tags="|star-wars-imperial-assault|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33230" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-03T01:23:40.223" Score="1" ViewCount="1875" Body="&lt;p&gt;My husband found 2 of the 1993 collectors edition boxes (still sealed, but small rips at the seems on the top). I was hoping you could tell me how much they are worth and where the best places to go to sell them.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19073" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T14:18:13.437" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T14:18:13.437" Title="1993 collectors edition sealed box" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|pricing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-12-05T14:14:51.450" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33231" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33681" CreationDate="2016-12-03T04:39:23.830" Score="1" ViewCount="1073" Body="&lt;p&gt;The rule book says regarding the ASSIGNMENT PHASE:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&quot;During this phase, players assign their leaders to missions.&quot;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a maximum number of missions that can be played during this phase? If I have 5 leaders, por example, can I assign them to 5 different missions on a single turn?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thank you!&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16188" LastActivityDate="2017-01-02T11:10:18.723" Title="Star Wars: Rebellion - How many mission cards can have leaders assigned to?" Tags="|star-wars-rebellion|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33232" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-03T13:00:10.493" Score="5" ViewCount="2986" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12557/differences-between-dixit-versions&quot;&gt;Differences between Dixit versions?&lt;/a&gt;, and &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/geeklist/171700/dixit-product-guide&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the BoardGame Geek &quot;Dixit product guide&quot;&lt;/a&gt; which help, but I'm interested in something more specific.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Is there a version/expansion of Dixit that has the same &quot;riddling/storytelling&quot; element as the main game, but can be played with just cards? (therefore, can be easily transported in just a pocket or without taking up much room in a bag)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/119407/dixit-jinx&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;strong&gt;Dixit Jinx&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/a&gt; which at first glance looked like exactly what I'm talking about, but &lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1423954/dixit-jinx-short-review-ie-bad-bad-game&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;apparently as well as dropping the board it also has &quot;abstract&quot; cards&lt;/a&gt; resulting in, apparently, much more basic and limited riddles/stories/clues. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/92828/dixit-odyssey&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Dixit Odyssey&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt; is apparently playable standalone and looks like its board is much smaller (I could be mistaken from the photos). If the board folds up small, that'd be fine, I could just ditch the giant box, but it's hard to tell from the photos I can find. Some listings of expansions (&lt;a href=&quot;https://www.amazon.co.uk/Libellud-ASMDIX02EN-Dixit-Expansion-Quest/dp/B00OFOO09E/ref=bdl_pop_ttl_B00OFOO09E&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;example&lt;/a&gt;) talk as if they can be played standalone with other basic equipment but others say they need the full original.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I travel a lot and so the smaller space would be a big help. Games like Once Upon A Time are great for this, I can just ditch the box and slip the cards in a pocket or at the bottom of a bag. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Dixit appears to also be mostly about cards and riddling/storytelling (must confess I've not actually played it), but all the versions I can find appear to be either expansions, or come in a big box with a board.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I've seen a few comments various places that seem to say that some of the Dixit card-only expansions can be played as standalone games if you use something else (dice, paper) to keep score but I'm not clear about which this is true of or what would be needed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19077" LastEditorUserId="-1" LastEditDate="2017-04-13T12:38:50.397" LastActivityDate="2019-08-31T08:10:24.247" Title="Is there a portable / travel / pocket Dixit, without a large / bulky board but same riddling gameplay?" Tags="|dixit|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33233" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33232" CreationDate="2016-12-03T14:40:47.353" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are no official portable Dixit version I'm aware of, but to play the game you need only 3 things:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Set of cards with artwork&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Way to secretly vote for cards for each player&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Way to track score&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Expansions are just a sets of cards, so choose one you like most. For secret voting you can make a set of tokens with different colored backs and numbered fronts, just like in base game. Or you can use dice and reveal them simultaneously. And for scoring you can use just pen and paper or any counters that go up to 30. You might need to make a box/container too, as I think expansion box is bigger than necessary. &#xA;My friend did exactly this, although not for portability reasons, just because she liked set of cards from expansion the most, and it worked fine.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="16237" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T09:22:50.753" LastActivityDate="2016-12-04T09:22:50.753" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33234" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="45350" CreationDate="2016-12-03T15:09:46.050" Score="11" ViewCount="1137" Body="&lt;p&gt;Can someone identify the game in this picture? It comes from the manga Houkago Saikoro Kurabu, which has a history of &lt;a href=&quot;https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E6%94%BE%E8%AA%B2%E5%BE%8C%E3%81%95%E3%81%84%E3%81%93%E3%82%8D%E5%80%B6%E6%A5%BD%E9%83%A8#.E4.BD.9C.E4.B8.AD.E3.81.AB.E5.87.BA.E3.81.A6.E3.81.8F.E3.82.8B.E3.82.B2.E3.83.BC.E3.83.A0&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;showcasing real board games&lt;/a&gt; (particularly eurogames) so it is very likely not just made up for the manga:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmHxS.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/kmHxS.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;picture&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Here's a higher-resolution image of the board itself, which shows better details on the pieces and the map:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iebgb.jpg&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/Iebgb.jpg&quot; alt=&quot;board zoom-in&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16237" LastEditorUserId="1926" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T00:07:01.227" LastActivityDate="2021-01-10T06:04:15.310" Title="What is the board game featured in this Houkago Saikoro Kurabu picture?" Tags="|identify-this-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="10" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33235" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33583" CreationDate="2016-12-03T16:15:53.453" Score="4" ViewCount="1024" Body="&lt;p&gt;John controls Sea Serpent in the fiord. Alice decides to invade an adjacent province with Fire Giant. Does the Sea Serpent get destroyed?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Fire Giant is supposed to destroy everything except for monsters. Sea Serpent is supposed to be treated as a ship for all intents and purposes.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2016-12-28T15:27:03.533" Title="Sea Searpent during invasion of Fire Giant in Blood Rage" Tags="|blood-rage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33236" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33386" CreationDate="2016-12-03T16:23:11.750" Score="2" ViewCount="1238" Body="&lt;p&gt;The card says &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;You may pay 1 rage to prevent a figure of yours from being destroyed.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Can I pay 3 rage to prevent 3 figures from being destroyed in a single battle?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2500" LastActivityDate="2017-10-09T21:02:55.727" Title="Frigga's Protection multiple use in single battle" Tags="|blood-rage|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33237" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-03T19:11:23.307" Score="2" ViewCount="617" Body="&lt;p&gt;Background: &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;In Axis and Allies 1940, two powers may occupy the same territory and defend it together. &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;AAA fire first at enemy aircraft, with each AAA capable of firing at up to 3 enemy aircraft--but no more than 1 per plane. Hits are scored on roll of a 1.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Radar increases the hit score from &quot;1&quot; to &quot;2 or less&quot;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;General question: What happens when two powers are sharing a territory, and one power has radar, and the other power does not?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solution 1: Split the rolls?&#xA;Example: UK has Radar and has 1 AAA. The USA shares this same territory, doesn't have radar, and has 1 AAA. Germany is attacking with 5 aircraft. Normally, the total number of AAA present (2) is enough to fire up to 6 aircraft; but since total number of aircraft (5) is lower than 6, only 5 total AAA rolls are permitted. How does the defender split the dice rolls between the radar-AAA and regular-AAA? Possibilities: Radar AAA: 3 / regular: 1; Radar AAA: 2 / regular 2; Radar AAA: 1/ regular. 3; &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solution 2: radar presence.&#xA;I the above scenario, since at least one unit with radar is present, are all the friendly AAA &quot;upgraded&quot; to two or less? (i.e., all that is needed is at least one radar-AAA). This also means that if the territory is owned by UK, but the AAA present are from the US, then they score a hit on a dice roll of a one.  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Possible solution 3: territory ownership?&#xA;The rule book doesn't explain it this way, but this solution can solve the question. If the territory is owned by the power that has radar, then all friendly AAA also roll on 2 or less-- even if the only AAA present are from friendly-but-foreign power without radar. The justification is that the AAA units themselves do not have radar, but the territory is equipped with a radar network. But if the territory is owned by a power without radar, then all friendly AAA &lt;em&gt;do not&lt;/em&gt; hit on a one, regardless if the other power has &quot;radar-capable&quot; AAA.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19079" LastEditorUserId="45" LastEditDate="2018-03-29T14:27:05.703" LastActivityDate="2018-03-29T14:27:05.703" Title="Axis and Allies 1940 Multinational Defense, AAA and Radar" Tags="|axis-and-allies|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33238" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33232" CreationDate="2016-12-03T21:35:16.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;I would recommend another game with similar feeling. Try Codnames: Pictures. &#xA;&lt;a href=&quot;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/198773/codenames-pictures&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/198773/codenames-pictures&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I think it's more portable, but there is a lot in common with Dixit (in fact people are actually playing Codenames using cards from Dixit).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="3554" LastActivityDate="2016-12-03T21:35:16.557" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33239" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33237" CreationDate="2016-12-03T22:19:16.843" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;It depends on the exact wording of the rule that &quot;radar increases the hit score&quot;. If there is nothing beyond those words, then it would logically apply to the unit; in your example the Allies have one British AAA that can take up to three radar-assisted shots, leaving the American unit to take the other two without the bonus. (It would be logically possible to decide to take two radar-assisted shots and three 'manual', but this is unlikely in a real game.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1644" LastEditorUserId="1644" LastEditDate="2017-04-03T09:19:28.143" LastActivityDate="2017-04-03T09:19:28.143" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33240" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33255" CreationDate="2016-12-04T01:47:55.197" Score="0" ViewCount="4926" Body="&lt;p&gt;recently moved from standard and began playing Commander last weekend using two of the new 2016 sets. Mine is Breed Lethality vs opponent's Entropic Uprising. So far I've lost 5 out of 6 games, and I'm not a bad player! Once he gets the cascade going, especially with multiple recurrences using &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bYidris%2c%20Maelstrom%20Wielder%5d&quot;&gt;Yidris, Maelstrom Wielder&lt;/a&gt;, I'm essentially dead. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So then, what is the best tactic to combat cascade!?!? Especially given my deck. I really don't want to break up the deck, but if I have to. Perhaps these two are just mismatched. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Restating the above question, what is the best tactic to combat cascade? (I thought this was evident already...)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Thanks &amp;amp; happy holidays. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18292" LastEditorUserId="18292" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T23:12:28.267" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T23:12:28.267" Title="How to combat Cascade in Commander" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|mtg-commander|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="5" ClosedDate="2016-12-05T14:13:42.277" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33242" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33265" CreationDate="2016-12-04T20:11:04.973" Score="2" ViewCount="1447" Body="&lt;p&gt;In Risk Legacy there is a mission to conquer 9 territories in one turn. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Do the territories need to be occupied by another player before you capture them to count towards this mission objective? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18962" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T00:33:33.710" Title="Does the mission to conquer 9 territories in one turn require them to be occupied?" Tags="|risk|risk-legacy|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33243" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33244" CreationDate="2016-12-04T20:34:39.197" Score="1" ViewCount="712" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%2c%20the%20Ceaseless%20Hunger%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger&lt;/a&gt; and my fried has &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bViper%27s%5d%2b%5bkiss%5d&quot;&gt;Viper&amp;#39;s kiss&lt;/a&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;Enchanted creature gets -1/-1, and its activated abilities can't be activated.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;When Ulamog attcks is that an activated ability or or is it a creature spell that can be countered?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19089" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-04T20:47:29.637" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T14:16:21.667" Title="What are Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger's abilities counted as?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33244" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33243" CreationDate="2016-12-04T20:44:28.693" Score="6" Body="&lt;p&gt;It is neither. It is a &lt;strong&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Triggered_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;triggered ability&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;603.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Triggered abilities have a trigger condition and an effect. They are written as “[When/Whenever/At] [trigger condition or event], [effect].”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ulamog has two triggered abilities &amp;mdash; one for when he's cast, and one for when he attacks &amp;mdash; and &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Indestructible&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;indestructible&lt;/a&gt;, a &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Keyword_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;keyword ability&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Viper's Kiss has no effect on any of these abilities. It will give Ulamog -1/-1 making it a 9/9, but Ulamog will still exile cards.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Spell&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Spells&lt;/a&gt; are only ever cards (or copies of cards) that are on the stack. Abilities never count as spells.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Activated_ability&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Activated abilities&lt;/a&gt; also have a specific formatting you can recognise them by:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;602.1.&lt;/strong&gt; Activated abilities have a cost and an effect. They are written as “[Cost]: [Effect.] [Activation instructions (if any).]”&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;An example of activated abilities is found on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bElvish%20Mystic%5d&quot;&gt;Elvish Mystic&lt;/a&gt;: note the presence of a cost (tap Elvish Mystic), colon &lt;strong&gt;:&lt;/strong&gt;, and effect (add green mana). An activated ability has all three of these; an ability without these is not an activated ability.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5573" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T14:16:21.667" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T14:16:21.667" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33245" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-05T02:30:16.073" Score="1" ViewCount="375" Body="&lt;p&gt;Could anyone give me an idea on on how much a misprint Magic card could sell for? It's a Graverobber Spider, rarity is uncommon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19091" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T14:19:00.463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T14:35:42.473" Title="What the value of a misprinted Graverobber Spider?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|pricing|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33246" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33245" CreationDate="2016-12-05T02:47:11.720" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Due to their rarity and inconsistency, there isn't really an established market for misprint cards. You may be able to find individual collectors who are willing to purchase misprints, but the value will often depend both on which card it is and how it was misprinted.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T02:47:11.720" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33247" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33240" CreationDate="2016-12-05T05:07:55.883" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;So cascade is good because it is a powerful card advantage engine. This is why Bloodbraid Elf is banned in Modern and Shardless Agent has made a tier 1 deck in Legacy. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;There are a few strong counters to cascade. My favorite it Teferi, Mage of Zhalfir. Since they can only cast spells at sorcery speed, they can never cast the cascaded spell. Other spells like counterflux can counter all spells on the stack. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Considering it is commander, you will probably need a collection of cards like this to fight against cascade. However, considering the problem is the commander, honestly just packing more removal for it, such as go for the throat, swords to plowshares, flame slash, etc is your best bet&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T05:07:55.883" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33248" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33230" CreationDate="2016-12-05T05:10:00.427" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;That is likely worth quite a bit of cash. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The best place to see the prices of cards is TCGPlayer.com. Look at mid to low leverl. The best place to make the most money off of something like that once you have found a reasonable price is to post it on ebay honestly. If you want to accept much less but unload it quickly, go to a local card shop.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19093" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T10:41:31.133" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T10:41:31.133" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33249" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-05T05:57:42.140" Score="0" ViewCount="330" Body="&lt;p&gt;I ordered a few sets of Descent after I watched a friend play and after opening a few boxes I mixed up the cards. Now is there a way to unmix them? I don't remember which cards went to which expansion... I'm not sure if it matters that they are mixed up, but it seems like it does.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19094" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T06:27:00.877" LastActivityDate="2017-01-04T16:14:05.677" Title="How to tell from which expansion a card is?" Tags="|descent|" AnswerCount="3" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33250" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33249" CreationDate="2016-12-05T06:12:01.740" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've not handled Descent cards myself, but in my experience most games with card-based expansions &amp;mdash; Fantasy Flight games in particular &amp;mdash; tend to have small icons on their cards which indicate which expansion they come from; I usually find this in the lower right corner of the card itself (no icon typically means it comes from the base set).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From my quick skim of the instructions, that does appear to be the case here (see, for example, page 3 of the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/5c/9c/5c9c38d6-43e4-4107-a4a1-27ec50f249b0/dj03_rulebook_cs5.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Lair of the Wyrm&lt;/a&gt; expansion rulebook, as well as page 3 of &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/ffg_content/descent-second-ed/support/DJ05_Rulebook.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;the Trollfens&lt;/a&gt; rulebook).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="1926" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:12:01.740" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33251" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="25506" CreationDate="2016-12-05T06:13:47.923" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;According to the rules of ICF (international carrom federation) you can strike backwards directly. It is popularly known as thumbing as you use your thumb to strike the coins behind the baseline.  Watch any international tournament matches on youtube. you will notice players thumbing.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19095" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T06:13:47.923" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33252" PostTypeId="1" CreationDate="2016-12-05T07:57:26.923" Score="-3" ViewCount="985" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's assume &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%2c%20the%20Ceaseless%20Hunger%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger&lt;/a&gt;'s ability gets copied to a differently named card. When Ulamog is the only attacking creature, will the total number of exiled cards be 20 or 40? Because of the triggered ability of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStrionic%20Resonator%5d&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt;? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19096" LastEditorUserId="1718" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T08:14:44.030" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T13:32:33.323" Title="Ulamog, the ceaseless hunger and strionic resonator combo" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ClosedDate="2016-12-05T15:02:26.870" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33254" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33252" CreationDate="2016-12-05T09:49:05.297" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;You seem to misunderstand how &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStrionic%20Resonator%5d&quot;&gt;Strionic Resonator&lt;/a&gt; works. Whenever a source you control has an ability that triggers, this ability is placed on the stack. You can react to this by activating the Resonator and copy the effect on the stack. When you placed the first effect on the stack (say, for instance &quot;Whenever &gt;name-a-card&amp;lt; attacks, tap target creature&quot;) you chose a creature to tap. With the Resonator, when you copy this effect, you can choose another target creature to tap. The Resonator &lt;strong&gt;does not copy the text of the ability onto another creature&lt;/strong&gt;. Using  the Resonator, you can't copy a triggered ability from one creature to another, you can only interact with an effect on the stack that has a triggered ability as its source.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Then, using the Resonator on &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bUlamog%2c%20the%20Ceaseless%20Hunger%5d&quot;&gt;Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger&lt;/a&gt;: You can copy both abilities with the Resonator and both of the effects will be applied twice. The line abount 'choosing new targets' on the Resonator is only relevant for the 'when cast'-trigger, the 'when it attacks'-trigger does not target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Finally, if a card's ability refers to itself by name at any point, that's a shortcut for &quot;this card/object&quot;; it doesn't refer to other cards with the same name. So if you have two copies of &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bBasking%20Rootwalla%5d&quot;&gt;Basking Rootwalla&lt;/a&gt;, and you activate its pump on one of them, it only affects that one Basking Rootwalla.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="14468" LastEditorUserId="14468" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T13:32:33.323" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T13:32:33.323" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33255" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33240" CreationDate="2016-12-05T10:05:23.277" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;There are different things you can do:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;1) prevent the cascade from ever triggering&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;2) prevent the cascade from doing anything&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ 1) in your case:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;you could kill Yidris before he can deal damage &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Prevent Yidris from gaining this ability: you could prevent any damage, e.g. with fog effects (&lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bFog%5d&quot;&gt;Fog&lt;/a&gt;) or you could give yourself protection from Yidris, e.g. with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bRuned%20Halo%5d&quot;&gt;Runed Halo&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prevent Yidris from ever coming into play, e.g. via &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bNevermore%5d&quot;&gt;Nevermore&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;prevent Yidris from attacking: some very cheap options are &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bPacifism%5d&quot;&gt;Pacifism&lt;/a&gt; effects.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;@ 2) &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ul&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Cascade is a triggered ability, therefore you could counter it with &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bTrickbind%5d&quot;&gt;Trickbind&lt;/a&gt; or &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bStifle%5d&quot;&gt;Stifle&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;If you cannot counter the ability, you could make sure, that cascade can't cast the spell: &lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;a) make sure your opponent can only cast spells at sorcery speed (e.g. &lt;s&gt;Venser&lt;/s&gt; Teferi* as suggested by DSynergy)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;b) make sure, our opponent can't cast more than one spell, e.g. &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bCurse%20of%20Exhaustion%5d&quot;&gt;Curse of Exhaustion&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ul&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;*sorry, always confuse these two, thanks to Louis&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="17561" LastEditorUserId="17561" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T08:27:49.927" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T08:27:49.927" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33256" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33249" CreationDate="2016-12-05T10:17:39.760" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;No, it doesn't matter if cards are mixed up. The game is designed to be mixed and matches at will. You can play any subclass in any expansion. You can buy any item at the shop from any expansion as well.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Only overlord cards are played &quot;face down&quot;. Everything else is displayed on sight, and marked exactly when to use. For example, act 2 shop items are marked with a &quot;II&quot;. If more expansions are mixed in, that just means you'll have more loot to choose from in Act II. There are some scenarios (tutorial for example) that will tell you exactly what to bring to the table. Having more cards, just means more options for all the players.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Cards are marked with their expansion symbol, if for some reason you want to check them individually or remove them from the game.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;hr&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;A side comment, I'd check the app if you haven't yet. It basically plays the Overlord (which almost no one likes to play), and you and your friend just play the heroes. The app is called descent road to legend, and it's available on Steam, iOS and Android for free. It uses every expansion you have (you select them in an option), although only in side quests, and minions. They just launched The Delve, a campaign that'll mix and match content from all your expansions, but it's payed for (5$). I'd try the general campaign first, and then if you enjoyed it, go for the Delve (which is much more re-playable).&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T10:17:39.760" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33257" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33230" CreationDate="2016-12-05T10:30:48.333" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;http://www.abugames.com/item262815-new/0/86-magic/(MTG)---Collectors&amp;#39;-Edition-International-Set-Box.html&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Here&lt;/a&gt;, it's sold for $3,800.00. I'm guessing yours will fetch a few hundred less (they are retail and try to sell for profit after all).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Things to know. &lt;strong&gt;Don't open them&lt;/strong&gt;. The value is on being sealed. They all contain a full set of cards, so there is no chance of getting card X or Y, there is no gamble, they are all there. That means you also have 1 ultra rare &quot;Black Lotus&quot; in there, but here is the catch, all those cards have gold trims in the back, and square corners. This makes them possible to distinguish from &quot;regular&quot; magic cards. They can't be played with on tournaments (for example) and the black lotus is worth far less ($400.00) than the &quot;real&quot; one ($125,000.00)..&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I'd sell them on eBay, although if you don't have a good seller's reputation, it'll be a hard sell.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T10:30:48.333" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33258" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33245" CreationDate="2016-12-05T14:35:42.473" Score="2" Body="&lt;p&gt;As murgatroid says, there isn't a good estimate for any card, but there are a few guidelines. Major misprints are more valued by collectors than little ones, so miscuts where some other card from the sheet is visible are better than off-kilter cuts or shadowed text. More famous or rare cards typically have more demand, because misprint collectors are still collectors, and they still want prominent cards. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;From that criteria, I can't give an exact figure for your spider (and especially because I don't know the nature of the misprint), but unfortunately I think I'd have to guess it isn't worth much more than a non-misprinted one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T14:35:42.473" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33259" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33228" CreationDate="2016-12-05T15:21:02.427" Score="1" Body="&lt;p&gt;Magic's popularity is a bit of a curse because it feels a lot like any reasonable way of letting players act during the other's turn is a rip-off of it.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This isn't out-of-sequence play but it does allow counterplay: have certain cards take a turn to carry out their effect (kind of like Magic's suspend ability). I &quot;cast&quot; a spell, then pass the turn. On my opponent's turn, they can counter my casted spell or do whatever they want, then pass back to me. On my turn, the casted spell now takes effect if it hasn't been hit.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More powerful spells can take longer to come out, you can have spells that come out immediately (like most counterspells wouldn't have to wait a turn to work), you could have quicken or slow type effects that add to the turn-counter for spells, there's a decent amount of untouched design space there.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18563" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T15:21:02.427" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33260" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33249" CreationDate="2016-12-05T15:25:26.557" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;While some FFG games like Arkham Horror function best with just one or two expansions and can become unwieldy with  more, Descent just gets better and better with each expansion added, just like @CyberClaw mentioned. And as @goldPseudo mentioned, there are typically small icons on the card to indicate the set each card belongs to.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;For more information on those icons and a quick reference to which set they belong to, the &lt;a href=&quot;http://descent2e.wikia.com/wiki/Category:Expansions&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Descent Wiki - Expansions&lt;/a&gt; page can be extremely useful, as each expansion's detail page lists not only the detailed contents of the expansion, but also the set icon for that expansion.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5463" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T15:25:26.557" CommentCount="3" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33261" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33308" CreationDate="2016-12-05T16:11:13.343" Score="3" ViewCount="159" Body="&lt;p&gt;While playing through Saloon Tycoon for the first time, we weren't able to figure out whether the roof counts as a floor or not. There are two possibilities:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;1. The Roof is a Floor&lt;/strong&gt; &lt;br&gt;&#xA;In which case the tallest section would be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floor 3: Roof &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Floor 2: Another room &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Floor 1: Saloon&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This is how we played it, since the roof is a tile just like any other it seemed like it should follow the same rules. This led to problems with the Luxury Suite, which is required to be on the third floor.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;2. The Roof is not a Floor&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;br&gt;&#xA;In which case the tallest section could be:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Floor 4. Roof &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Floor 3. Another room &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Floor 2. Another room &lt;br&gt;&#xA;Floor 1. Saloon &lt;br&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;This helps the Luxury Suite make sense, but it causes a conflict because the roof is now different than other tiles. It essentially becomes a fourth &quot;floor&quot;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16289" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-12-05T16:12:38.133" LastActivityDate="2020-05-11T09:45:33.143" Title="Is the roof a floor?" Tags="|saloon-tycoon|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33262" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33264" CreationDate="2016-12-05T16:34:25.343" Score="1" ViewCount="710" Body="&lt;p&gt;I've read that Arkham Horror the Card Game can support 3-4 players if you purchase an additional copy, but does this mean that to continue to play with 3-4 players, every expansion would need to be purchased twice (including the mythos packs as well)?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12617" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T16:48:40.107" Title="Do all expansions have to be bought in pairs to maintain playability for 3-4 players?" Tags="|arkham-horror-card-game|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33264" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33262" CreationDate="2016-12-05T16:48:40.107" Score="3" Body="&lt;p&gt;Not necessarily. Post the core-set, expansions will be divided into scenario/encounter cards, and player cards. You only need one set of the scenario/encounter cards per play group; however, the expansions will only come with 1 playset of each player card.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So, if a new player card comes out and you and your friend both want to run a full playset of it, you'll need two copies of the expansion. But if you can play around that, you only need one.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastActivityDate="2016-12-05T16:48:40.107" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33265" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33242" CreationDate="2016-12-06T00:33:33.710" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Based on the implications in the &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.hasbro.com/common/documents/dad2886d1c4311ddbd0b0800200c9a66/00D721465056900B10A16E11F8F54E7F.pdf&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;rules&lt;/a&gt;, in order to conquer a territory it needs to be occupied.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Conquering is only referred to on page 12 of the rules, which indicates that it is the action taken after successfully Attacking an occupied territory.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Occupying an empty territory is referred to as Expanding by the rulebook on page 10.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="16123" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T00:33:33.710" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33266" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33267" CreationDate="2016-12-06T00:55:32.223" Score="1" ViewCount="78" Body="&lt;p&gt;I use the &quot;Account Siphon&quot; ( &lt;a href=&quot;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01018&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;https://netrunnerdb.com/en/card/01018&lt;/a&gt; ) and the corp has only three credits. No ice is installed on HQ. How many credits will I get? 6?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18439" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:43:53.510" Title="Account Siphon on the corp with &lt; 5 credits in the bank" Tags="|android-netrunner|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33267" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33266" CreationDate="2016-12-06T00:58:53.613" Score="4" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, the corp can lose up to 5 and you would gain double whatever the corp loses.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Account Siphon says:  &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;If successful, instead of accessing cards you may force the Corp to&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;lose up to 5&lt;/strong&gt;, then &lt;strong&gt;you gain 2 for each credit lost&lt;/strong&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;So in your example, if you decide to siphon, the Corp would lose 3 and you would gain 6. Note that this is a replacement effect, and when the run is successful you can choose not to trigger it (accessing a card from HQ instead). This might be beneficial if, for example, the corp spends their remaining money on rezzing assets/ICE and there are no credits left to siphon.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="5030" LastEditorUserId="5030" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T21:43:53.510" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:43:53.510" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33268" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33269" CreationDate="2016-12-06T01:45:44.470" Score="1" ViewCount="294" Body="&lt;p&gt;I have 2 counters on a creature, with 3 &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bOrdeal%20of%20Nylea%5d&quot;&gt;Ordeal of Nylea&lt;/a&gt; attached, and then attack, what in all (preferably step by step) happens next?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19105" LastEditorUserId="5573" LastEditDate="2016-12-14T22:05:05.210" LastActivityDate="2016-12-14T22:05:05.210" Title="Multiple Ordeals of Nylea on one creature" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33269" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33268" CreationDate="2016-12-06T01:53:34.207" Score="12" Body="&lt;p&gt;The basic answer is that the creature gets 3 more counters (for a total of 5), you sacrifice all 3 Ordeals, and you search your library for 6 basic lands and put them onto the battlefield tapped.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Step by step, here's what happens:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;You attack with the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Abilities that trigger when you attack are put on the stack. In this case, that is the first ability of each of the 3 Ordeals attached to the creature.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The first ability of the first Ordeal resolves. You put a counter on the creature. It has 3 or more counters, so you sacrifice the Ordeal. The Ordeal's second ability triggers, and is put on the stack.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player gains priority, and has an opportunity to respond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;The second ability of the first Ordeal resolves. You search your library for 2 basic lands, and put them on the battlefield tapped.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Each player gains priority, and has an opportunity to respond.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Steps 3-6 repeat for each of the second and the third Ordeal. In each of those iterations, you put another counter on the creature, sacrifice that Ordeal, and search for 2 more lands.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="2537" LastEditorUserId="2537" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T20:27:52.417" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T20:27:52.417" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33273" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33229" CreationDate="2016-12-06T12:05:51.737" Score="7" Body="&lt;p&gt;I believe that your interpretation of the rules is correct, since they do seem to be pretty clear on that point; here's the &quot;Line of Sight&quot; section from the &lt;a href=&quot;https://images-cdn.fantasyflightgames.com/filer_public/ef/86/ef866943-534b-429e-b8db-7d99875431b7/imperial_assault_rules_reference_guide.pdf&quot;&gt;Rules Reference Guide&lt;/a&gt;, page 16:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;To determine line of sight, the player draws two imaginary, nonintersecting lines from one corner of the attacking figure’s space&#xA;  to two adjacent corners of the target’s space. If either of these lines&#xA;  passes through a wall, &lt;strong&gt;figure&lt;/strong&gt;, or blocking terrain, then the figure&#xA;  &lt;strong&gt;does not have line of sight&lt;/strong&gt; to the target.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;(I've added the emphasis on &quot;figure&quot;, the other is in the original.)&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The way I'd justify this slight oddness to myself is that when you're targetting a figure, it's one particular figure that you're trying to target - there's no way to say, &quot;this would probably hit one of these two rebels&quot;, and if there were that'd have to take into account their different distances, etc. It'd be a much more confusing combat system if that possibility were taken into account. So I guess it's a nice simplification to say that you're just targetting one figure, and anything that might get in the way blocks that intention, even if it's another hostile figure rather than blocking terrain.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="685" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T12:05:51.737" CommentCount="0" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33274" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33275" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:48:38.250" Score="0" ViewCount="1044" Body="&lt;p&gt;Let's say my opponent plays &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=397522&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Diabolic Edict&lt;/a&gt; and I have to choose to sacrifice a creature.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I have &lt;a href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=409922&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow noreferrer&quot;&gt;Insolent Neonate&lt;/a&gt; on the board, so can I choose to sacrifice it, and then play it's ability at the same time? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;I know that if the opponents card had him choose a target, and that target had an sacrifice ability, I could use it and it would resolve first. But since here I have to choose the target myself, how does the stack work here? &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The spell is already on the stack once my opponent plays it, so does me choosing a target to sacrifice resolve the spell, meaning I can't play any abilities in between, or does it stay on the stack still and let me play abilities in between?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Edit: Similarly, if an opponent would play an ability that said f.ex: &quot;Opponent discards 2 cards from his hand&quot; and I had a card in my hand that said something like &quot;Discard this card, draw a card&quot; and a card in play that said &quot;Discard a card, this creature gains +1-+1&quot;. Could I choose to discard the draw card to trigger the effect and another card to trigger the creature effect at the same time the opponents spell resolves?&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="19110" LastEditorUserId="3249" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T18:13:47.010" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:50:09.550" Title="Sacrifice creature question (Magic the gathering)" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="1" CommentCount="1" ClosedDate="2016-12-06T18:30:02.287" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33275" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33274" CreationDate="2016-12-06T17:58:48.973" Score="0" Body="&lt;p&gt;You can't sacrifice the creature to pay for the ability and then because of D.Edict. If you are left with no creatures on board though, that means you can't sacrifice any. It's the only way that play would work out, if Insolent N. was the last creature you controlled.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;It goes like this:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;ol&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 1 puts Diabolic Edict on stack and pays for it.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Player 2 can respond with an instant or ability, chooses to sacrifice  Insolent Neonate to draw a card it goes on the stack. The ability &quot;price&quot; is payed at this moment (discard and sacrifice)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Stack is resolved, &quot;draw card&quot; ability resolves first, as the stack is FILO (First In, Last Out, that means the first thing on the stack, is the last to be resolved, and the last thing is the first to be resolved)&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;li&gt;Target player sacrifices a creature is resolved in 2nd. Player 2 is target player, and he needs to choose the creature when the ability is resolved. If there are no other creatures to sacrifice, player 2 sacrifices none.&lt;/li&gt;&#xA;&lt;/ol&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;EDIT: Likewise the discards are 2 separate things. The discard in your cards is a &quot;cost&quot;, and you have to pay it. The discard on your enemy card, is an action you have to do, so you'd just end up discarding twice. Again this would only be useful if you were left with no cards in hand (so he couldn't force you to discard).&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="18895" LastEditorUserId="18895" LastEditDate="2016-12-07T09:50:09.550" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T09:50:09.550" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33276" PostTypeId="1" AcceptedAnswerId="33277" CreationDate="2016-12-06T20:52:00.653" Score="12" ViewCount="14794" Body="&lt;p&gt;If I have a creature with 0 power, can I still attack with it? I am asking in regards to Silent Skimmer but also in general. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;&lt;a href=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtMKT.png&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot;&gt;&lt;img src=&quot;https://i.stack.imgur.com/EtMKT.png&quot; alt=&quot;Silent Skimmer&quot;&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="12141" LastActivityDate="2016-12-07T15:29:59.853" Title="Can a creature with 0 power attack?" Tags="|magic-the-gathering|" AnswerCount="2" CommentCount="2" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33277" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33276" CreationDate="2016-12-06T20:57:01.317" Score="18" Body="&lt;p&gt;Yes, creatures with a power of 0 can attack.  Otherwise, it would be very hard to use creatures like &lt;a class=&quot;mtg-autocard&quot; target=&quot;_blank&quot; rel=&quot;noreferrer&quot; href=&quot;http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?name=%2b%5bSignal%20Pest%5d&quot;&gt;Signal Pest&lt;/a&gt; which buff your team when they attack, but don't have any power of their own. &lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;The rules just say that a creature attacks.  There's no stipulation based on power:&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&#xA;&lt;blockquote&gt;&#xA;  &lt;p&gt;506.2. During the combat phase, the active player is the attacking player; creatures that player controls may attack. During the combat phase of a two-player game, the nonactive player is the defending player; that player and planeswalkers he or she controls may be attacked.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;/blockquote&gt;&#xA;" OwnerUserId="10354" LastEditorUserId="10354" LastEditDate="2016-12-06T21:10:59.030" LastActivityDate="2016-12-06T21:10:59.030" CommentCount="1" ContentLicense="CC BY-SA 3.0" />
  <row Id="33278" PostTypeId="2" ParentId="33276" CreationDate="2016-12-06T21:20:58.673" Score="13" Body="&lt;p&gt;Zero power does not prevent a creature from attacking.&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;More generally, any creature can attack if it does not have &lt;a href=&quot;http://mtgsalvation.gamepedia.com/Defender&quot; rel=&qu